HAPPI June 2011

Looking for a Mild Surfactant Package? Don’t compromise mildness for foam, have it both ways with RITAFACTANTS RITA’s p...

Author: Tom Branna

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Looking for a Mild Surfactant Package? Don’t compromise mildness for foam, have it both ways with RITAFACTANTS RITA’s patented use of Acyl Lactylate Surfactant Blends.

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ATURAL & EC

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surfactant packages.

DES AVAILAB

cost-effective

T APPROVED G RA

foaming, stable and

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E

Exceptionally mild, high

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For more information please visit us at ritacorp.com

www.ritacorp.com

Your source for speciality chemicals worldwide

Lanolin • Lanolin • Lanolin Derivatives • Absorption Bases • Emulsifiers • Glycol • Glyceryl • PEG Esters • Fatty Alcohols & Acids • Paraffins • Flavinoids • Co-Enzymes • Amino Acids • Vitamins Cationic Quaternary Compounds • Conditions & Styling Aids • Emollient Esters • Polyoxyethylene Ethers, Esters & Resins • Sovlents • Coupling Agents • Ritacanes • Ritadecenes • Carbomers & Gums Methyl Glucose Esters • Acyl Lactylates, Lactates & Lactic Acid • Surfactants • Preservatives / Antimicrobials • Essential Oils • Naturals • Butters • Oils • Certified Organics • Sunscreens • Silicones • Actives • Guars Alkylpolyglucose Esters • Thinkeners & Stabiliziers • Carrier Systems • Proteins • Aiglon • ROVI • Lamberti • Seiwa Kasei

What quality feels like.

Grant Industries is a leading global provider of specialty materials for personal care, known for award-winning products and cutting-edge research. Our dedication to product performance and customer support makes us the ideal source for new ideas and ingredients to improve skin feel.

Products we offer include: N N N N N

Silicone Elastomer Gels Natural Based Technologies Formulated Silicone Products Microsphere Powders Silicone Copolyol Surfactants

N N N N N

Active Delivery Systems Specialty Hair Care Products Physical UV Dispersions Silicone Acrylate Resins Retinoic Derivatives

Contact us today to discover the ways we help ensure your product’s performance is flawless, or learn more at www.grantinc.com.

125 Main Ave. Elmwood Park, NJ 07407

201-791-6700

N

[email protected]

June 2011 Volume 48, No. 6 www.happi.com

FEATURES

77

61

Loads of Innovation

65

A Green Light for Naturals

Washloads, that is. Henkel and Procter & Gamble are delighting consumers with several new laundry product launches that may help push the industry forward and category sales higher.

Sustainable, naturally sourced ingredients are here to stay, according to personal care industry suppliers.

Cover Story

77 85 97

44

Give It to Me Straight The salon hair care industry took a hit during the recession as consumers put the breaks on discretionary spending. But is this market—where hairstyle and product trends begin—ready to bounce back?

A Dynamic Approach Active ingredients can help skin care products deliver what they promise. A list of new active ingredients begins on p. 89.

Thinking About the Box

… tube and bottle. The entire packaging process is on marketers’ minds these days—from raw material procurement to what happens after customers squeeze out that last drop of product. A directory of packaging suppliers begins on p. 109.

118 Applications for Sustainable Cellulose Derivatives An AkzoNobel researcher details the benefits of a new family of watersoluble cellulose derivatives.

122 Opportunity in Adversity

CSPA’s mid-year meeting celebrates some of those who get through life’s tough spots and emerge victorious.

4 • happi

COLUMNS

happi.com

Gleams & Notions More than marketing? A look at ingredients

46

EuroTrends European body care market is plumped and prosperous

48

News from Latin America Robust growth for L’Oréal throughout Latin America

50

TheBrand & AdAudit Dial up a winner with NutriSkin lotion

54

Human Capital Management Motivation secrets

56

Anti-Aging & Cosmeceutical Corner Inflammation’s conflicting role in beauty and aging

Cover design: Laura Caramagna Cover photo: Number 4

June 2011

©2011 AjinomotoU.S.A., U.S.A.,Inc. Inc. All All product product names names shown trademarks of Ajinomoto Co.,Co., Inc. Inc. ©2008 Ajinomoto shownhere hereare areregistered registered trademarks of Ajinomoto

DEPARTMENTS 8

Editor’s Page

32

Please, take us with you!

10

Index to Companies A quick guide to the companies referenced in this issue of HAPPI

12

Online at Happi.com Get glowing: bold colors and bronzers are big for summer

14

News Front

Dove gives real woman a chance to dance with the stars

42

Formulary

126

Patent Review

129

International

130

Packaging News

Meetings

132

Supplier’s Corner A low-cost complete conditioning base from Inolex

133

Industry News Innovative natural ingredients from Extracts & Ingredients

136

SCC News NYSCC’s July 29 golf outing to be held on two courses

137

Financial News P&G’s Q3 earnings jump 11%

6 • happi

138

HBA Global Expo set for NYC June 28-30

Nu Skin expands direct selling in China

126

New Products

M&H Plastics moves into the fast lane

J&J patents vanillin polymers for darkening the skin

28

Regulations

Jane Iredale rolls out stacked set

Clear lipgloss with sunscreen actives, SPF 10

26

129

CSPA, ACI comments on EPA safer cleaning product standard

U.S. cosmetics and toiletries market rebounds in 2010

18

Marketing News

happi.com

Personnel Roundup Chemsil promotes Griffiths

146

Photo News Vichy whips up 80th celebration

ADVERTISING SECTIONS 139

Contract Packaging/ Private Label

142

Professional Directory

142

Classified Ads

144

Advertising Index June 2011

Editor’s Page

PLEASE, TAKE US WITH YOU!

J

UNE IS ALL ABOUT FINISHING one chapter and starting another—you know, the graduation thing. This time of year always reminds me of those lazy senior days in high school when sports were over, extracurricular activities were finished and, most distressingly, the students and teachers were done…even if the school year wasn’t. Most days, we’d leave campus, ride around for a while and end up at somebody’s parentless house, planning that night’s activities and trading unmemorable salvos, one more nonsensical than the next. But one brief conversation has always remained burned in my memory. The exchange went something like this: “Dude, how often do you get Sports Illustrated?” “I have a subscription. It comes to the house once a week.” “Once a week? How do you have time to read a whole magazine in one week!?” Back then, I thought my time-challenged friend was an illiterate moron. Now, I realize he may have been prescient. Fast forward nearly 30 years and consumers say that they don’t have time to read weekly magazines—let alone daily newspapers—on a regular basis. On top of that, there’s the siren’s song of cable TV, as well as Facebook, LinkedIn and other sites that siphon away the hours before you realize it. At this time of year, add to it disrupted schedules and summer vacations, and suddenly, reading a business journal may not seem quite so paramount. That’s why we’ve made it easy for you to keep up with the industry. Sure, we’ve got our monthly issue that is a perfect beach companion, but we’ve also got a website that’s updated with daily news and features, as well as in-depth archives that will keep you coming back for more. And, we’ve got the obligatory presence on Facebook and LinkedIn, too. Of course, we think this month’s articles will keep you flipping through the June issue. Be sure to check out our coverage of natural materials (p. 65), professional hair care (p. 77), active ingredients (p. 85), and packaging trends (p. 97). These and other articles make for great summer reading. And what about my friend who couldn’t pick his way through a single issue of SI over the course of 168 hours? Don’t worry, the kid’s all right. He’s an engineer in Virginia, and more than likely getting his sports news from ESPN.com! Wherever your travels take you over the next couple of months, we hope you enjoy this issue of HAPPI. As always, we welcome your comments and suggestions.

Tom Branna Editorial Director [email protected] 8 • happi

happi.com

V.P./EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Tom Branna, [email protected] ASSOCIATE EDITORS: Melissa Meisel, [email protected], Christine Esposito, [email protected] COLUMNISTS: Ally Dai, Harvey Fishman, Navin Geria, Suzanne and Bob Grayson, Katie Middleweek, Sueli Ortega, Patrick Ropella CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Nancy Jeffries

RODMAN PUBLISHING PRESIDENT: Rodman J. Zilenziger, Jr., [email protected] EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT: Matthew J. Montgomery, [email protected] PUBLISHER: Art Largar, [email protected] ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER: Beth Russo, [email protected] EUROPEAN SALES: Baudry Boisseau Associates Tel: 32-2-513-06-47 • Fax: 32-2-514-17-38 Email: [email protected] ADVERTISING SALES (Hong Kong, Taiwan & China): Michael R. Hay, Ringier Trade Publishing Ltd. Hong Kong (852) 2369 8788 • Fax: (852) 2869 5919 E-mail: [email protected] PRODUCTION DIRECTOR: Sharon Messner, [email protected] ART & TECHNICAL MANAGER: Michael Del Purgatorio, [email protected] ONLINE DIRECTOR: Paul Simansky, [email protected] WEB MANAGER: Jason Lawton, [email protected] CIRCULATION MANAGER: Joe DiMaulo, [email protected] To renew/subscribe/update subscription information, please visit www.happi.com. Or contact: [email protected] Tel: (201) 825-2552 ext. 374 Fax: (201) 825-6582.

A Rodman Publication 70 Hilltop Road Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA Tel: (201) 825-2552 Fax: (201) 825-0553 Website: www.Happi.com happi—Household and Personal Products Industry (ISSN 0090-8878) is published monthly on the 10th by Rodman Publishing Corp., 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA. Phone: (201) 825-2552. Fax: (201) 825-0553. Periodical postage paid at Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA and additional mailing offices. Publications Mail Agreement No 40028970: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Dept., PO Box 1051, Fort Erie, On L2A 6C7. Circulation Dept.: circulation @rodpub.com. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Happi, 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey NJ 07446 USA. Free subscriptions to Happi are available to qualified individuals. Others are as follows: U.S. one year $85; two years $115. Outside U.S. and overseas: one year $105 (U.S.), two years $150 (U.S.). Single issue: $12 (except for February, July and October, $15). 5% GST required on Canadian orders. GST#134451756. Foreign Airmail: one year $195 (U.S.). Make checks payable in U.S. dollars through a U.S. bank. American Express also accepted. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Missing Issues: Claims for missing issues must be made within three months of the date of the issue. PRINTED in USA. Happi’s circulation is audited by BPA International. Authorization to photocopy items in Happi for internal or personal use, or internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted by Rodman Publishing, provided a base fee of U.S. $1 per page is paid directly to: Copyright Clearance Center, 27 Salem St., Salem, MA 01970 USA.

June 2011

CREATING TOMORROW’S SOLUTIONS

YOU KNOW US. YOU JUST DIDN’T KNOW IT.

To learn more about our customized solutions, visit us at www.wacker.com/knows-solutions Or simply use your smart phone to scan the QR code above. Wacker Chemical Corporation, 3301 Sutton Road, Adrian, MI 49221, USA TEL: +1 888 922 5374, FAX: +1 517 264 4068, [email protected]

Index to Companies • This index gives the starting page for a department or feature with a significant reference to a brand, finished product company, agency, research firm, retailer or trade association. Subsidiaries are indexed under their own names.

Coty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133 CoverGirl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32, 126 CPSC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Crabtree & Evelyn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 CSPA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42, 122 Davi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Debenhams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Demand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Design Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146 Dial . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Diversey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138 Dove . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Dr. Hauschka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 EAA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .129 EDANA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 e.l.f. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 EPA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Essie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 Estée Lauder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Eucerin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Eylure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 FTC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 Green Earth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Green Seal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 HBA Global . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Henkel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32, 61, 122 Huile Minceur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 IBIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 InGlam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Jane Iredale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 Jean Paul Gaultier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Johnson & Johnson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Kantar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

AAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Acai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 ACI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Aloxxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 American Crew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Arvel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .129 Aveda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65, 97 Axe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Bath & Body Works . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Beauty Systems Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Beyond Coastal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 Biotech Medical . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 Black Opal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Blyth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122 Bombril . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Bon Ami . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Bosley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133 Church & Dwight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Clorox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 CND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 Colgate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Colomer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Comedy Central . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Conopco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Evonik – Goldschmidt Chemical for Hair & Skin formulations

SURFACTANTS, ESTERS, AMIDES, QUATS & BETAINES SPECIALTY BLENDS AVAILABLE

YOU NAME IT, WE HAVE IT...

UPI should be the first company you think of when you need a trusted and responsive partner to focus on the finest chemicals and natural ingredients tailored to all your specific needs. We carry a complete ready-to-ship inventory that you can depend on for accurate, on-time delivery at the right price.

24 HOUR ON-LINE CUSTOMER SERVICE @ www.upichem.com Star-K Kosher Certification UNIVERSAL PRESERV-A-CHEM INC.

60 Jiffy Road, Somerset, NJ 08873-0438

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride “MCT” Glycerine – Triacetin Propylene Glycol 1,3-Butylene Glycol Dipropylene Glycol Sodium Hyaluronate Lanolins – Dihydroxyacetone Benzocaine – Lidocaine Methyl Salicylate Preservatives, Vitamins Antioxidants – Stearic Acids Phenoxyethanol Chlorophenesin Povidone Iodine 10% -USP Benzoic Acid USP Cetyl – Stearyl Alcohols Silicones – Vegetable Oils Sunscreen Agents Titanium Dioxide USP-FCC Urea USP – Kojic Acid Allantoin USP – Aloe Salicylic Acid and Salts Lactic Acid USP-FCC Squalane – Squalene Mineral Oil – Petrolatum

732-568-1266 • Fax: 732-568-1299 • E-mail: [email protected] FOR ALL YOUR COSMETIC, PHARMACEUTICAL & FOOD NEEDS CUSTOM REPACKAGING AVAILABLE PAILS, QUARTS, GALLONS, DRUMS, TOTES TO TRUCKLOADS & BULK • VISA–M/C–AMEX

10 • happi

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Kimberly-Clark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Kline & Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 122 LaRoche-Posay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Laser & Skin Surgery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85 Limited Brands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122 L’Occitane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 L’Oréal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26, 32, 65, 77, 97 Lush . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Mary Kay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 McBride . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Melvita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Method . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Mintel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 46, 65 Mojo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 Mount Sinai Medical . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85 Murad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 MyChelle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Natura . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Nicholas Perricone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 NPD Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12, 85 Number 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Nu Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28, 137 NYX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Obagi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 O Boticario . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Obscene Jeans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Odin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 OPI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32, 127 Organic Essence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Organic Monitor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 OxiClean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Pacific Trade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Palmolive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Pantene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Perrelli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Perrigo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Philosophy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 PhotoMedex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 Pravana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Proactiv . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85 Procter & Gamble . . . . . . . . . . . . .42, 61, 77, . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97, 122, 133, 137 Puig . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 PureBioscience . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Pureology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Ralph Lauren . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Reckitt Benckiser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122 Redken . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Regis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Rockin Green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Sadick Dermatology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85 Sally Beauty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Salon Grafix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 SC Johnson . . . . . . . . . . . .12, 32, 122, 133 Scotch Corp. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Sebastian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 SeneGence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Sephora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Seventh Generation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 SymphonyIRI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46, 61, 77 TABS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 The Body Shop . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 46, 65 The Hartmann Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 The Home Depot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Thermafuse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Tocca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 Tom’s of Maine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32, 97 Tupperware . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138 Ulta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Unilever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 Unipro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Vichy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146 Yankee Candle . . . . . . . . . . .122, 126, 138 June 2011

Online at happi.com

GET GLOWING: BOLD COLORS AND BRONZED SKIN ARE BIG FOR SUMMER • The beauty industry is ready for Summer 2011. After

Hot off the Red Carpet Collection

all, last season was first time in two years that prestige makeup sales increased, according to The NPD Group, a Port Washington, NY-based market research firm. Fueled by the double-digit growth of offerings from primers to anti-aging face products to rich color options in lip and nail, five of the six segments within makeup posted growth. Three segments either met or outpaced category growth: Face (+3%), Lip (+3%), Nail (+39%). Eye (+2%). Other Color (+1%) grew, but slightly behind the category. So, what’s on trend? “The hot looks for this summer are bold eyes, bold lips, a flawless face and flirty nails,” noted Achelle Dunaway, creative director and makeup artist for e.l.f. cosmetics, New York, NY. “People are already getting ready for the summer,” added Noel Sweeny, makeup artist and co-founder of Addiction NV Cosmetics, Huntington Beach, CA. “Girls are craving that dewy healthy glow with a nude shimmer.”

When You Care Enough To Send the Very Best

The folks at Philosophy know how important it is to say “thank you.”

• What once was celebrated with a Hallmark card or flowers has gone digital by way of text messages and Facebook wall comments. Personal care marketer Philosophy is looking to change the way we say “Happy Birthday” and “Congrats” with its new Year Round Gifting collection, out now in stores. The gift sets are named by occasion and feature everything from Birthday Girl ($18), a two-piece set comprised of Philosophy’s Vanilla Birthday Cake Shampoo, Shower Gel & Bubble Bath and Vanilla Birthday Cake High-Gloss, High-Flavor Lip Shine to Here Comes the Bride ($35), featuring other top products.

Psst: What’s Bugging the Insect Repellent Industry? • With mass market sales of nearly $500 million, there’s plenty of buzz surrounding the U.S. insect repellent category. We’ll look at the fastest growing products within this segment and find out what’s new from market leaders such as S.C. Johnson and Clorox. • 12 • happi

happi.com

June 2011

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NATURALS • SUN CARE • PRESERVATION

innovating possibility ™

News Front

U.S. COSMETICS AND TOILETRIES MARKET REBOUNDS IN 2010 skin care have included bioelectric technology to help stimulate the natural renewal process of the skin and DNA enhancement formulas found in power-serum products.”    In 2010, skin care remained the largest product class, accounting for 25% of total industry sales. Thanks to the emergence of high-tech facial treatment offerings, the product class has also remained one of the fastest growing segments. The industry frontrunner was makeup, which registered 4.4% growth. Lending a strong hand to the success of the makeup category was nail polish, which was up 20.4% in 2010 due to new product activity adapted to achieving at-home salon results and easy application. More info: www.klinegroup.com

Cosmetics and toiletries sales rose 2.4% in 2010, according to Kline & Co.

• Rising consumer confidence, aggressive promotional activity and technological advances propelled U.S. sales of cosmetics and toiletries by 2.4% to $36.5 billion in 2010 at the manufacturers’ level, according to recently released data from worldwide consulting and research firm Kline & Company. After experiencing a 0.8% decline in 2009, last year’s increase brought sales back above pre-recession levels. While the industry showed signs of recovery, consumers influenced by economic uncertainties continued to scrutinize their spending, shopped at venues with competitive pricing, and sought out products on sale. The increased willingness to spend was primarily driven by offers that provided extra value. Skin care kits, priced more favorably than individual products, and multi-functional products were among the core trends of 2010.      According to Kline, all trade classes grew in 2010. The specialty trade class, which consists mainly of mall-based retail stores including Bath & Body Works and The Body Shop, posted the strongest gains, and provided a good sign that consumers are back out and shopping again. In contrast, the professional channel, encompassing salons, spas, and physician offices, registered the lowest overall increase of 1.9%. As consumers continued to hold back from visits at professional beauty outlets, focus has shifted to achieving the best possible results at home. In the skin care segment, a host of products were introduced during the year that compared their results to those obtained from a beautician or doctor. For example, at-home skin care devices used to treat fine lines and wrinkles, as well as tone and cleanse skin, have become very popular with consumers. “This hunt for additional quality has been spearheaded by marketers’ extensive innovation efforts,”explained Carrie Mellage, director at Kline’s Consumer Products Practice. “Advancements in 14 • happi

Growing Interest in Biobased, Green Household Products

• New consumer research unveiled by Genencor, an industrial biotechnology company, demonstrates market potential in North America for “biobased” and “green” household products with environmental benefits. The Genencor Household Sustainability Index found that four in ten American consumers and about a third of Canadian consumers already have heard of the term“biobased”to describe products or product ingredients used in cleaning and personal care products, clothing and fuels such as ethanol and biodiesel. Most consumers also readily accept that biobased products offer sustainability benefits. According to the survey, more than two thirds of Americans and Canadians said biobased ethanol for vehicles, laundry and dish detergents, and clothing made with biobased enzymes are definitely or likely green. About 8 in 10 consumers in both countries said they would definitely or likely purchase biobased household products instead of non-biobased products if comparable on cost and effectiveness. In addition, the Genencor Household Sustainability Index also provided a snapshot of recent consumer purchases and attitudes on products perceived to be green. Overall, 71% of consumers in Canada and more than half of American consumers (53%) purchased a household product considered to be green in the past 60 days in categories such as cleaning supplies, personal care, detergents and soaps, recycled paper and energy efficient light bulbs. The survey also found that in the U.S. women are twice as likely as men to purchase green cleaning products, while men are twice as likely as women to purchase energy efficiency bulbs. The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) estimates that there are 20,000 biobased products currently being manufactured in North America. As part of a new program launched in March, the USDA already has certified dozens of consumer products with its“BioPreferred”label, which designates a product is made with a

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June 2011

News Front

high percentage of agricultural ingredients. However, while threequarters of consumers in the U.S. and Canada consider themselves familiar with household green products (those considered better for the environment than comparable products), one-third are not confident that these products are really better for the environment than other products. Confidence in green products does increase somewhat with level of familiarity, according to the company. In the U.S., consumers who are very familiar with green products are almost twice as likely as consumers overall to say they are very confident that such products are better for the environment (22% versus 12%). This relationship is not as strong in Canada, the company said.

Teens, Young Women Still Tanning— Inside and Outdoors

• Despite repeated warnings from dermatologists on the health dangers of tanning, results of a new survey by the American Academy of Dermatology show that a large percentage of Caucasian teen girls and young women admitted using tanning beds or intentionally tanning outdoors in the past year. According to the group’s data, 32% of respondents had used a tanning bed in the past year, and of those respondents, 25% used a tanning bed at least weekly, on average. An overwhelming majority (81%) of all respondents reported that they had tanned outdoors either frequently or occasionally in the past year. “Our survey underscores the importance of educating young women about the very real risks of tanning, as melanoma—the deadliest form of skin cancer—is increasing faster in females 15 to 29 years old than in males of the same age group,” said dermatologist Ronald L. Moy, M.D., and president of the American Academy of Dermatology.“In fact, most young women with melanoma are developing it on their torso, which may be the result of high-risk tanning behaviors such as indoor tanning. In my practice, I have had Young women are still tanning. patients —young women with a history of using tanning beds—who have died from melanoma.” When survey results were analyzed by age, respondents who reported using indoor tanning noted significant differences. Specifically, 18-22 year-olds were almost twice as likely to have indoor tanned (40%) when compared to 14-17 year-olds (22%). Although spray tans are considered a safe alternative to UV exposure from the sun and indoor tanning beds, the majority of respondents 86% indicated that they never received a spray tan in the past year. “Exposure to UV radiation is the leading risk factor for skin cancer, yet—despite this knowledge—droves of teens and young 16 • happi

women are flocking to tanning bed facilities and beaches or pools to tan every year,” said Moy.“The challenge is that teens have access to indoor tanning salons on almost every corner.” In fact, a recent survey of 116 U.S. cities found an average of 42 tanning salons per city, which means tanning salons are more prevalent than Starbucks or McDonald’s, according to Dr. Moy. “We are very concerned that this tanning behavior will lead to a continued increase in the incidence of skin cancer in young people and, ultimately, more untimely deaths from this devastating disease.” At current rates, one in five Americans will develop skin cancer in their lifetime. Approximately 75% of skin cancer deaths are from melanoma, and the incidence of melanoma has been rising for at least 30 years – particularly among young, white women in most recent years, according to the group. More info: www.aad.org

Soap Sells When It Smells…Good That Is • When it comes to soap and shower products, pleasing scents and a promise to moisturize the skin are paramount attributes, according to a recent survey conducted by market research firm Mintel. According to Mintel, scent and moisturization are among the top attributes consumers look for when shopping for soap, bath and shower products. According to the data, 38% of respondents who have purchased soap said their decision was based mainly on scent, while 35% say they preferred shower products with extra moisturizers. Meanwhile, 60% of respondents claim that finding soap or body wash products on sale or the cheapest is important/very important to them and 18% of soap-buying consumers say they look for the least expensive brand of soap or body wash. “Although many top brands have answered demand for these qualities, there are substantial opportunities for private label brands to enter this arena during the slow economic recovery,” according to Kat Fay, senior beauty analyst at Mintel. “The U.S. soap consumer is looking for bargains now more than ever as household budgets remain tight, therefore private label brands need to have a lower price-point and deliver lather, fragrance and significant moisturizing ingredients.” In addition, men are starting to have a substantial impact in the market. According to Mintel, men between the ages of 18-34 report the highest usage of body wash at 58%, compared to 50% of those ages 35-54 and 42% of those who are 55+. “Men represent a key demographic for sales of body wash products and marketers of these products should attempt to gain the attention of men to boost their sales,” added Fay.“Having said that, a whopping 74% of women buy liquid body soap or wash compared to 50% of men—so women are still the key purchasers.” With the growing trend of body wash, sales of scrubbers and massagers rose nearly 10% in 2010 and Mintel expects this segment to continue growing by 63% between 2010 and 2015. More info: www.mintel.com •

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June 2011

STAY-C® 50 Explore the untapped potential of vitamin C for skin, hair and oral care DSM Nutritional DSM Nutritional Products, Products, LL LLC C 4455 W Waterview aterview Bou Boulevard, levarrd, Parsippany Parsippany NJ 0 07054-1298 7054-1298 Phone: 1-800-526-0189 1-800-526-0189 www .unlimitednutrition-na.dsm.com www.unlimitednutrition-na.dsm.com www.dsmnutritionalproducts.com www .dsmnutritionalproducts.com

STAY-C® 50 – the ideal STAY-C ideal form form m of V Vitamin itamin C, ccombining ombining stability stabilityy w with ith proven proven effic efficacy acy S STAY-C TAY-C® 50 – for for vvisibly isibly ssmoother mo oother and yyounger-looking ounger-looking skin skin S TAY-C® 50 – test STAY-C test rresults esults sshow h w the benefits ffor ho or body body,, oral oral and hair hair care care

Formulary

CLEAR LIPGLOSS WITH SUNSCREEN ACTIVES, SPF 10 Arizona Chemical (912) 238-6556 • Website: www.arizonachemical.com INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A Sylcaclear A200V (Arizona Chemical) 22.40 (Ethylenediamine/hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer bis-di-C14-18 alkyl amide) Sylvaclear C75V (Arizona Chemical) 9.60 (Bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/stearyl hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer) Finsolv TN (Innospec) (C12-15 alkyl benzoate) 26.00 Neoheliopan AV (Symrise) (Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7.50 (octinoxate)) Neoheliopan OS (Symrise) (Ethylhexyl salicylate) 5.00 Fancol PolyIso 250-CG (Fancor) 10.50 (Hydrogenated polyisobutene) Elefac I-250 (Bernel) (Octyldodecyl neopentanoate) 19.00 PROCEDURE: Combine all ingredients and heat to 85°C. Mix until uniform. Cool with agitation to 75-80°C. Discharge into mold. Allow to cool before demolding. PROPERTIES: Yields a clear, firm stick that affords sun protection. SPF 10 calculated via BASF sunscreen calculator.

Moisture Lotion

Jeen International Corp. Tel: 800-771-JEEN (5336) • Fax: 973-439-1402 Email: [email protected] • Website: www.jeen.com INGREDIENTS Phase A Deionized water Jeesperse CPW-CG-T (Jeen)

WT% 83.0 5.0

Product formulas are supplied by producers of raw materials. Included in some instances are sources of supply for the raw materials and instructions for

(Cetyl alcohol, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, glyceryl stearate) Glycerin (Jeen) Jeesilc PDS 350 (Jeen) (Dimethicone) Phase B Jeesilc 110 (Jeen) (Dimethicone) Jeecide GII (Jeen) (Propylene glycol, diazolidinyl urea, methyl paraben, propyl paraben)

5.0 2.0 4.5 0.5

PROCEDURE: Mix phase A at room temperature. Add phase B until homogenous.

Eye Shadow - 02-062.1

Brenntag Specialties, Inc. (908) 561-6100 Website: www.brenntagspecialties.com INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A ST 1925 (BSI) (Talc and dimethicone) 44.250 Flamenco Twilight Blue 620CB (BSI – BASF) (Mica (and) 10.000 titanium dioxide (and) iron oxides) Cloisonne Nu-Antique Blue 626CB (BSI – BASF) 15.000 (Mica (and) titanium dioxide (and) iron oxides (and) ferric ferrocyanide) Flamenco Twilight Red 430ZB (BSI-BASF) 15.000 (Mica (and) titanium dioxide (and) iron oxides) MultiReflections Soft Sparkle Orchid 580P (BSI-BASF) 5.000 (Mica, titanium dioxide and silica) Reflecks Dimensions Sparkling Blackened Red G450RD000 3.000 (BSI – BASF) (Calcium sodium borosilicate (and) iron oxides) Jeecide CAP-4 (Jeen) (Phenoxyethanol (and) caprylyl glycol) 0.750 Kester Wax K-24 Wax #358 (BSI - Koster Keunen) 7.000 (Lauryl laurate) PROCEDURE: Mix Phase A ingredients in a blender until uniform. Press into suitable container at 1800 psi.

preparation and use of the finished product. No guarantee of performance or

Sugar Cane Body Wash

safety is implied by HAPPI. For more complete details, readers should contact

Rhodia (888) 776-7337 • (215) 781-6364 (tech service) Website: www.rhodia.com

the suppliers directly using the telephone number or website provided with each formula. If your company has a formula that you think would be of interest to readers of HAPPI, marketers of soaps and detergents; cosmetics and toiletries; fragrances; waxes and polishes; disinfectants and sanitizers and other chemical specialties, we will be pleased to consider it for publication. Address all material to: Formulary Editor, HAPPI, 70 Hilltop Rd., Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA; Email: [email protected].

18 • happi

INGREDIENTS WT% Water q.s. to 100 Rhodapex ESB-70 NAT (Rhodia) (Sodium lareth sulfate) 11.0

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June 2011

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Formulary

Miranol Ultra C-32 (Rhodia) (Sodium cocoamphoacetate) 12.5 Organic Orange Blossom Floral Water (Cremer Care) 1.0 Lavender Essential Oil (A&E Connock) 0.1 Geogard Ultra (Lonza) (Gluconolactone/sodium benzoate) 1.0 Glycerin Bio (Cremer Care) (Organic vegetable glycerin) 2.0 Citric acid 50% q.s. Sodium chloride 0.2 PROCEDURE: Charge water into main vessel. Slowly add Rhodapex ESB-70 NAT and mix until uniform. Charge the Miranol Ultra C-32 and mix until uniform. Charge organic orange blossom floral water, lavender essential oil, organic glycerin and mix until uniform. Charge the Geogard Ultra and mix until uniform. Adjust the pH to 5.5-6.0 with citric acid, 50%. Adjust the viscosity with sodium chloride and mix until uniform. Add more NaCl if necessary to thicken. PROPERTIES: Appearance—Clear liquid; Brookfield Viscosity at 25°C—4,000-6,000 cps (RVT spindle 4, 10 rpm); pH @ 25°C—5.5 to 6.0; Solids, %—16-18%; Storage-stability— Stable for 3 months (Freeze/Thaw; 45°C ; 4°C).

Smooth Sensation Conditioning Shampoo for Asian Hair

Lubrizol Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc. (Noveon Consumer Specialties) (216) 447-5000 • www.personalcare.noveon.com INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A Deionized water 66.33 Disodium EDTA 0.05 Sensomer CT-250 Polymer (Lubrizol/Noveon) 0.30 (Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) Mirataine BET C-30 (Rhodia) 5.00 (Cocamidopropyl betaine (35% TS) Texapon ALES 3-70 (Cognis) 12.86 (Ammonium laureth sulfate (70% active, 3 mole) Texapon ALS-70 (Cognis) 8.60 (Ammonium lauryl sulfate (70% active) Comperlan 100C (Cognis) (Cocamide MEA) 0.60 Lanette O (Cognis) (Cetearyl alcohol) 0.30 Cutina AGS T (Cognis) (Glycol distearate) 1.50 Phase B Dow Corning 2-1491 (Dow Corning) 3.33 (Dimethicone, laureth-23 (and) C12-15 pareth-3 (60% TS)) Glydant Plus Liquid (Lonza) 0.30 (DMDM hydantoin (and) iodopropynyl butylcarbamate) Perfume SN 132N (Givaudan) (fragrance) 0.60 Ammonium chloride (25% solution) 0.23 PROCEDURE: Phase A—add Disodium EDTA to deionized water, mix until dissolved. Add Sensomer CT-250 polymer to deionized 20 • happi

water with high speed agitation until uniform. Heat batch to 75°C with gentle mixing. Add surfactants (ingredients 4-6) to batch in order with good mixing. Mix until uniform. Add ingredients 7-9 with mixing. Mix until melted and uniform. Remove heat and cool to ~25°C with mixing. Phase B—add phase B ingredients to batch in order with mixing. Mix until uniform. PROPERTIES: Appearance—white pearlized emulsion; pH—5.4-5.8; Viscosity (mPa•s (Brookfield DV-II @ 20 rpm, #5 spindle, @25°C measured after 24 hours)—8,000-12,000; Stability—Passed 3 months @ 45°C, passed 5 freeze/thaw cycles; Surfactant (% TS/actives)—17.4.

NPA Hair & Body Conditioning Shampoo Cognis GmbH Cognis GmbH Care Chemicals Division Website: www.cognis.com

INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A Water, demin. 40.9 Keltrol CG-SFT (CP Kelco) (Xanthan gum) 1.2 Veegum Pure (RT Vanderbilt, Inc.) 1.3 (Magnesium aluminum silicate) Jaguar C 13 S (Rhodia) 0.2 (Guar hydroypropyltrimonium chloride) Gluadin WP (Cognis) (Hydrolyzed wheat protein) 0.2 Citric acid (50%) q.s. Phase B Water, demin. 13.0 Plantacare 2000 UP (Cognis) (Decyl glucoside) 22.0 Plantapon ACG HC (Cognis) (Sodium cocoyl glutamate) 7.0 Lamesoft PO 65 (Cognis) 3.0 (Coco-glucoside (and) glyceryl oleate) Citric acid (50%) q.s. Phase C Plantasil Micro (Cognis) 7.1 (Dicaprylyl ether (and) decyl glucoside (and) glyceryl oleate) Euperlan Green (Lauryl glucoside (and) stearyl citrate) 4.0 Perfume 0.1 Preservative q.s. Phase D Citric acid (50%) q.s. PROCEDURES: Mix powders of phase A as dry blend and add it to the water of phase A while stirring. Adjust the pH with citric acid to pH < 6.0, mix with moderate agitation for ~ 60 min. to get a homogenous gel. Add the ingredients of phase B to a separate vessel, heat to 50°C and stir until it is uniform. Adjust the pH with citric acid to pH < 6.5. Then add phase B to phase A. Cool to 40°C while stirring. Add one ingredient after the other of phase C below 40°C. Add phase D to adjust final pH to pH 4,7 ~ 5,3. PROPERTIES: pH-value (as is)—5.1; Viscosity (Brookfield RVT, 23 °C, spindle 4, 10 rpm)—9,000 mPa•s

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June 2011

The choice for all of your testing needs.

We are Consumer Product Testing Co., Inc, a full 35 years service independent laboratory with over 30 of experience. Leading companies in the cosmetic, personal care, pharmaceutical, medical device and specialty chemical industries have come to depend on us. Critical evaluations in the fields of chemistry/ stability, microbiology, clinical safety and efficacy, photobiology (SPF) and preclinical safety are routinely provided. Our technical staff is available to discuss scientific and regulatory issues in a timely and user friendly fashion. So check us out – you’ll never choose another.

CONSUMER PRODUCT TESTING COMPANY 70 New Dutch Dutch Lane, Lane, Fairfield, Fairfield,NJ NJ07004-2514 07004-2514 Tel: 973-808-7111, Fax: 973-244-7535 Tel: 973-808-7111, Fax: 973-244-7507 E-mail: [email protected]

FDA

DEA

EPA

USDA

GMP/GLP/GCP

Conception to Completion

Formulary

Natural Gloss Treatment Cream

Gluadin WLM Benz (Cognis) (Hydrolyzed wheat protein) Phase E Sodium hydroxide (as 25%) (Sodium hydroxide)

DeWolf Chemical, Inc., a Member of The DeWolf Companies (submitted on behalf of Cognis Care Chemical) (800) 521-0065 • Fax: (401) 434-5306 Email: [email protected] Website www.dewolfchem.com INGREDIENTS Phase A Deionized water Salicat MI-10 (Salicylates and Chemicals) (Methylisothiazolinone) Phase B UltragelT 300 (Cognis) (Polyquaternium-37) Phase C Dehyquart C 4046 (Cognis) (Cetearyl alcohol (and) dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (and) ceteareth-20) Phase D Cetiol C5 (Cognis) (Coco-caprylate) Perfume Sensual Girl 0308217 (Expressions Parfumées) (Fragrance )

2.00 0.04

%WT

PROCEDURE: Heat phases A and C at 75°C. Disperse phase B in phase A. When phases A&B and C are homogenous, add phase C into phase A&B. Cool down, and at T<30°C, add the components of phase D one by one. Adjust pH to 3.8-4.5 with sodium hydroxide, if necessary.

87.86 0.10

Anti-Aging Moisturizing Day Cream Formula JZ3-230A The HallStar Company (877) 427-4255, (312) 385-4494 Email: [email protected] Website: www.hallstar.com

0.30 5.00

4.00 0.70

INGREDIENTS Phase A Deionized water Phase B Versene NA (Dow Chemical) (Disodium EDTA)

WT.% 68.87 0.05

SHARED VALUES – SHARED SUCCESS Brenntag Personal Care North America shares your desire to sensitively develop innovative products and solutions. We provide our customers with global access to a comprehensive range of ingredients and worldclass manufacturers through the largest specialty ingredient distribution network in the world. Anticipating the products for tomorrow Our applications lab is continually incorporating new ingredients into formulas relevant to today’s market trends.

22 • happi

BNA_PC_178x124_HAPPI_Dec2010_USen.indd 1

Innovating solutions Our technical experts both in the field and in the lab optimize your formulations based on an extensive product portfolio and technical training. Collaborating with customers We understand the challenges and needs of our customers. Our market experienced sales team transforms visions into realities and converts costconsciousness into high performance. Taking a step ahead From multiple locations across North America, Brenntag’s Personal Care

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team offers LTL shipments, sampling capabilities, local customer service and warehousing, exceeding our customers’ needs every day. Do you share our values? Let us show you how to share success. Please contact us to learn how.

Brenntag North America 5083 Pottsville Pike Reading, PA 19605 Phone 610 926 6100 x 3858 [email protected] www.brenntagnorthamerica.com

June 2011

15.12.10 15:00

Your Product Idea. Created by Us. Developed for Her. Personal Care Contract Manufacturer offering Custom and Private Label Formulations. Small to Large Flexible Production DQG)LOOLQJ&DSDELOLWLHV6SHHG WR0DUNHW([SHUWV&XVWRPHU 6HUYLFH3URPLQHQW5HVHDUFK DQG'HYHORSPHQW&KHPLVWV 3URIHVVLRQDO,QJUHGLHQWDQG 'HYHORSPHQW*XLGDQFH *OREDO([SRUWLQJDQG,PSRUWLQJ 6XSSRUW2YHUWKH&RXQWHU 27& DQG&RVPHFHXWLFDOV 6\QHUJLVWLF$FWLYHV3DUDEHQ )UHH3KWKDODWH)UHH6XOIDWH )UHH1DWXUDO2UJDQLF&KLUDOO\ &RUUHFW1R$QLPDO7HVWLQJ 3DWHQWHG,QJUHGLHQW7HFKQRORJLHV (VWDEOLVKHGDQG6WURQJ Company Foundation since 1989

)'$5HJLVWHUHGDQGF*03)DFLOLW\ 6%HQVRQ/DQH&KDQGOHU$=86$ +1

www.CoValence.com

Formulary

Phase C Rhodicare XC (Rhodia) (Xanthan gum) 0.20 Phase D 1,3-Butylene glycol (Argo) (Butylene glycol) 2.00 Superol K, Glycerine 99.7% USP/FCC Kosher 2.00 (P&G Chemicals) (Glycerin) Diocide (Centerchem) 1.00 (Caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol, hexylene glycol) Phase E HallStar GC (HallStar) (Caprylic/capric triglycerides) 5.00 Jojoba Oil - Ultra Refined (HallStar BioChemica) 3.00 (Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil) SolaStay S1 (HallStar) (Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene) 3.00 Shea Butter – Ultra Refined (HallStar BioChemica) 2.00 (Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter)) Sunflower Seed Oil (HallStar BioChemica) 2.00 (Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil) Phase F HallStar GMS Pure (HallStar) (Glyceryl stearate) 1.35 HallStar GMS SE/AS (HallStar) 2.00 (Glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate) Emulsiphos (Symrise) 1.00 (Potassium cetyl phosphate, hydrogenated palm glycerides) AS 5812 (Color Techniques) 0.50 (Titanium dioxide, triethoxycaprylylsilane) Phase G BHT (Merisol Antioxidants) (BHT) 0.08 RITA Vitamin E Acetate (RITA) (Tocopheryl acetate) 0.67 Retinol 15D (BASF) (Caprylic/capric triglycerides, retinol) 0.28 Phase H Simulgel 600 (Seppic) 3.00 (Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate 80) Phase I MSS-500W (Kobo Products) (Silica) 2.00 PROCEDURE: Water phase—Add phase A and phase B to a suitable vessel equipped with mixing, heating and cooling capabilities. When phase B is dissolved, add phase C. When phase C is fully hydrated, start heating to 140°F (60°C). Premix phase D and add during heating of batch. Oil phase—In a separate vessel, combine E, start mixing, and heat to 176°F (80°C). Add phase F ingredients in order. Cool to 149°F (65°C), then add phase G to batch with mixing. When both batches are homogeneous and at their designated temperatures, add phase EFG to phase ABCD with continued mixing at a high shear for two minutes. Homogenize for 10 minutes, resume mixing, and start cooling. At 122°F (50°C) or lower, add phase H and mix well, then add phase I and mix well. Cool to ambient temperature. Add water as needed to bring to full batch mass. When again uniform, stop mixing and perform final quality assurance checks. PROPER24 • happi

TIES: (25°C): Appearance—Light yellow cream; Viscosity—(RV, T-D, 5, 20 & 100 rpm, cP): 76000, 25000 & 7880; pH—6.0.

Protective Skin Cream with Bodyfensine

Centerchem (203) 822-9800 • Fax: (203) 822-9820 Website: www.centerchem.com INGREDIENTS Phase A Deionized water Ultrez 10 (Lubrizol) (Carbomer) Hispagel 200 NS (Cognis/Centerchem) Phase B Promulgen D (Lubrizol) (Cetearyl alcohol & ceteareth-20) Cutina GMS-SE (Cognis) (Glyceryl stearate) Myrj 59 (Uniqema) (PEG-100 stearate) Tegosoft CT (Evonik) (Caprylic/capric triglyceride) Organza (Centerchem) Phase C Sodium hydroxide (10% solution) Phase D Bodyfensine Solution (Lipotec S.A/Centerchem) Diocide (Centerchem)

WT% 72.10 0.20 5.00 2.00 1.25 1.00 2.00 10.00 0.75 5.00 0.70

PROCEDURE: Disperse carbomer in water, mix until uniform. Add remaining phase A ingredients, heat to 80°C. Heat phase B to 80°C. Add phase B to phase A under moderate mixing. Mix for 10 minutes. Begin cool down. At 50°C, add phase C until batch is between pH 6.5-7.0 At 40°C, add phase D ingredients. Mix until uniform. Discontinue.

Eyelash Growth Formula

Independent Chemical Corporation (718) 894-0700 • Fax: (718) 894-9224 Website: www.independentchemical.com

INGREDIENTS Phase A 1. 95% Alcohol 2. Glycerine 30 BE’ 3. Distilled water 4. Rose water 5. Auxina Tricogena (Vevy)

WT% 22.00 39.76 22.37 5.87 10.00

PROCEDURE: Mix 1 and 5. Separately mix also 2, 3 and 4 and then add to the mixture of 1 and 5 under continuing agitation. Let rest for 10 days and filter. The product is very effective and should be applied on the base of the eyelash. •

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June 2011

Patent Review

J&J PATENTS VANILLIN POLYMERS FOR DARKENING THE SKIN • U.S. Patent No. 7,935,331 B2; Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc., Skillman, NJ, has patented a method of darkening the skin. The method entails applying a polymer to the skin that is comprised of monomers selected from vanillin monomers, o-vanillin monomers and mixtures thereof and monomers selected from 3-aminotyrosine, dihydroxy acetone, aloin, emodin, alizarin, tyrosine, dihydroxyphenylalanine, 4,5-dihydroxynaphthalene-2-sulfonic acid, 3-nitrotyrosine, 3-dimethylamino phenol, p-aminobenzoic acid and mixtures thereof. L’Oréal Patents Process For Dyeing Fibers

• U.S. Patent No. 7,909,887 B2; L’Oréal S.A., Paris, has patented a process for dyeing human keratin fibers in the presence of at least one oxidizing agent. It entails applying to the fibers at least one anhydrous cosmetic composition that contains at least one fatty substance, at least one organic amine having a pKb less than 12 at 25°C, and at least one surfactant; at least one

composition (B) that is comprised of an oxidizing agent; at least one composition (C) comprised of a dye chosen from oxidation dyes and direct dyes; and leaving the compositions on the fibers for a period of time sufficient to dye them.

partial esters of linear or branched fatty acids (emulsifier component A) and emulsifiers based on carbohydrate (emulsifier component B), one or more oils, and preservative.

Hard Surface Cleaner

Heat Activated Fabric Treatment • U.S. Patent No. 7,932,223 B2; a heat

Johnson of Dana Point, CA has been awarded a U.S. patent for her composition designed to clean hard surfaces. It is comprised of a soap-water mixture, a dry mixture and a sucrose ester. It can be used on marble, stone, granite, tiles, grout, pots, surfaces in a kitchen and surfaces in bathrooms.

activated fabric treatment composition has been patented by Conopco, Inc., Englewood Cliffs, NJ. This treatment composition contains quaternary ammonium fabric softening materials, a nonionic surfactant, a fatty component selected from fatty acids having a melting point of at least 40°C, fatty alcohols having a melting point of at least 40°C and mixtures thereof, and water.

Cosmetic Emulsions With Long-Term Stability

Antimicrobial Composition Active Against E. Coli, Staph

• U.S. Patent No. 7,910,532 B2; Karin M.

• U.S. Patent No. 7,910,119 B2; Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH, Essen, Germany, has been awarded a U.S. patent for an oil-in-water emulsion that is comprised of non-ethoxylated emulsifier combination including noncarbohydrate polyol

A Pair of Pesticides

U.S. Patent No. 7,935,732 B2; ISP Investments, Wilmington, DE, has patented an antimicrobial composition consisting essentially of a mixture of 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2-octanediol, phenoxyethanol and a co-biocide. The antimicrobial composition is active against at least one of E. coli, Staph aureus, P. aeruginosa, B. cepacia, C. albicans and A. niger.

•

• U.S. Patent No. 7,931,910 B2; W. Neudorff GmbH KG, Emmerthal, Germany, has patented a method for killing insects. It entails providing a pesticidal composition with one component selected from the group consisting of a phosphonic acid chelating agent, a metal complex of the phosphonic acid chelating agent, a phosphonic acid chelating agent combined with a metal salt, and mixtures thereof, and a second component that comprises a dry food source effective as a bait edible to insect pests. The pesticidal composition is applied as a solid, dry form to an area infested with insect pests, such that the insect pests can ingest the composition.

• U.S. Patent No. 7,931,911 B2; Riken, Wako-Shi, Saitama, Japan, has been awarded a patent for a pesticidal/ovicidal composition. It contains a triglyceride containing not less than 50% of oleic acid as a fatty acid component; a cationic surface active agent; and a glycerin derivative. The cationic surface active agent is at least one agent selected from lauryl dihydroxyethyl amine, hexadecyl amine, hexadecyl hydroxyethyl amine, lauryl amine acetate, hexadecyl poly (15) hydroxy ethyl amine, lauryl dimethyl benzalkonium chloride, oleyl dihydroxyethyl methyl ammonium chloride and octadecyl dimethyl benzalkonium. The glycerin derivative is at least one derivative selected from glycerol monoalkyl fatty acid esters, glycerol dialkyl fatty acid esters, polyglycerol monoalkyl fatty acid esters, and polyglycerol polyalkyl fatty acid esters, wherein said fatty acid esters have C12-C18 fatty acids. 26 • happi

happi.com

Detergent Composition Patented by Akzo Nobel

U.S Patent No. 7,935,666 B2; Akzo Nobel N.V., Arnhem, The Netherlands, has patented a detergent composition that contains at least one anionic or nonionic surfactant, and a copolymer having at least one amine-functional monomer, at least one hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer, hydroxy functional ethylenically unsaturated monomer, and a diethylenically unsaturated monomer or polyfunctional mercaptan. The amine-functional monomer is not a quaternized amine, and the copolymer has been at least 75 mol % neutralized with an organic acid. •

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June 2011

International

NU SKIN EXPANDS DIRECT SELLING IN CHINA • CHINA: Nu Skin Enterprises, Inc. has received official notification from the Chinese Ministry of Commerce that it can commence direct selling activities in four additional provinces and one municipality in mainland China. The provinces include Zhejiang, Guizhou, Sichuan, Shandong and the municipality of Tianjin. This is the fourth round of licenses granted to Nu Skin in China and adds to existing approvals in Beijing, Shanghai and Guangdong. “We are pleased with the receipt of these additional approvals which will allow us to augment our existing business model in these provinces with a direct selling component,” said Truman Hunt, president and chief executive officer.“Our business in China is growing at a robust rate, thanks to a dedicated sales force working closely with management and staff, and we look forward to continued expansion in this key market.” Lubrizol México Relocates Office

• MEXICO: After nearly six years of maintaining operations in Cuautitlan Izcalli, Lubrizol de Mexico Comercial is moving to Lomas de Chapultepec. The company opened the new offices in Mexico City to support its Noveon Consumer Specialties business, with the goal of consolidating its presence in the Mexican market. The new location will also provide more space to help improve speed to market and completion of customer projects by expanding the laboratory for the development of base formulations and providing appropriate space to welcome customers.  With this centralized location in one of the most dynamic and exclusive zones of Mexico City, Lubrizol de Mexico Comercial reiterates its commitment to offer technologies, ingredients and components that enhance the quality, performance and value of their customers’ 28 • happi

products, the company maintains. The new address for Lubrizol de Mexico Comercial is Montes Urales #215, Col. Lomas de Chapultepec, Delegacion Miguel Hidalgo, Mexico, D.F. c.p. 11000, Ph: +52(55) 3067 0860. More info: www.lubrizol.com/personalcare  

Is the Royal Wedding a Boost For Faux Tanner Sales in UK? • UNITED KINGDOM: Debenhams

Beauty Hall has revealed that the“glow”of the Middletons at the Royal Wedding has caused a spike in sales of sunless tanners with British women, who are aiming to look just as bronzed during this year’s wedding season. The afternoon of the Royal Wedding Day saw fake tan products flying off the shelves with sales up 219% compared to the same day last year, according to the UK department store. The following day was almost as successful as shoppers, inspired by the wedding highlights on TV, boosted sales by 200%, the retailer said. Industry observers suggest that Kate’s natural glow and Pippa’s golden tone came via a professionally applied artificial self tan. Might the duo be a muse for more? “You simply can’t underestimate the impact that Kate and Pippa will have on the beauty industry,”said Sara Stern, beauty director at Debenham. “Already streams of wannabe princesses have been flooding into our stores looking to achieve their healthy, groomed look.”

Ashland Aqualon Appoints DKSH in Vietnam

•VIETNAM: U.S.-based Ashland Aqualon Functional Ingredients (AAFI) has appointed DKSH’s Business Unit Performance Materials to distribute its pharma and personal care product range in Vietnam. In personal care, the Swiss-based Market Expansion Services specialist will dishappi.com

tribute AAFI’s range of functional ingredients. DKSH has dedicated sales and marketing teams in Vietnam, offering the capability to effectively distribute across the industries. Moreover, DKSH provides value-added services including state-ofthe art formulation laboratories and good storage practice (GSP) certified distribution centers. Having already represented AAFI in the Vietnam food and beverage industry, the addition of pharma and personal care bring all AAFI regulated products under the distribution of DKSH. More info: www.dksh.com/performancematerials

Black Opal Donates $25K To Malaika Foundation

• DEMOCRATIC REP. OF CONGO: Skin care and beauty brand Black Opal has donated $25,000 to the Georges Malaika Foundation (GMF). The donation will aid in the building of a new school for young girls in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), the company said. “Black Opal is about more than just skin care and cosmetics—it’s about community,” said Maya Brown, senior marketing director. “We see the potential in the girls of the Democratic Republic of Congo and we want to provide much needed educational opportunities in order to help empower them to become leaders in their community. By becoming leaders, they can help make positive contributions to their society.” Founded in 2007 by international model Noella Coursaris Musunka, a native of the DRC, GMF is dedicated to the advancement of African communities by providing educational opportunities to young girls, ages 5 to 18. GMF’s vision is to mobilize the resources necessary to overcome the insurmountable obstacles a young girl faces in obtaining an education in the DRC. GMF will provide assistance that paves the way for opportunity, generate greater June 2011

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choices and empower girls to make informed decisions. GMF endeavors to permanently alter the cycle of illiteracy and poverty— first in Lubumbashi, DRC, then throughout the DRC and all of Africa.

Lush Launches Gorilla Perfumes in India

•INDIA:

Privately held Lush Fresh Handmade Cosmetics has launched Gorilla Perfumes in Bangalore. The UKbased firm has rolled out six Gorilla perfumes in the country. Lush, which has been in India since 2004, currently operates in 13 stores in Bangalore, Mumbai, Delhi, Chennai, Ahmedabad, Hyderabad, Mangalore and Kolkata.

from this alliance, and that this service will contribute to the success of our airline as we plan to soon showcase the new A380 addition to our fleet.” “We are greatly honored to be the luxury in-flight amenity provider for Korean Air. Korean Airlines consistently delivers the best in-flight experience in the business to its passengers, and we are pleased to be able to contribute to enhancing the in-flight experience of Korean Air’s passengers. Davi looks forward to making this partnership one of the finest in the industry,” said Carlo Mondavi, chairman of the board of directors of Davi Luxury Brand Group.

Nonwoven Production Davi Luxury Takes to the Skies Rebounds in Europe With Korean Airlines • BELGIUM: EDANA, the international • SOUTH KOREA: The Davi Luxury association serving the nonwovens and reBrand Group has signed a deal with Korean Air to create a unique luxury amenity skin care line and travel bag exclusively for Korean Airlines and its first and business (prestige) class passengers. Korean Air began distributing the Davi amenity travel bags to its passengers in May. The amenity bags and the skin care line included in the bags, were designed and made exclusively for Korean Airlines in collaboration with Harmony. The Korean Air product line currently includes Davi’s Le Grand Cru face creme and Coastal Vine aftershave. In addition, products developed exclusively for and with Korean Air include hand and body lotion, cooling eye gel, lip balm and pulse point calming oil. Korean Air is one of the world’s premier airlines with a fleet of 129 planes that provide service to 39 countries, 113 cities and 20 million plus customers annually. “We are delighted to provide our passengers with Davi’s high quality skin care products. Providing these Davi amenity skin care kits to our passengers is consistent with our goal to remain one of the world’s premier airlines and to continuously innovate and upgrade our customer services,” said Heather Cho, senior vice president at Korean Air. “We expect that Korean Air and Davi will jointly benefit 30 • happi

lated industries, has released statistics on

SeneGence International Expands into UK

• UNITED KINGDOM: After 11 years of growth in the U.S., Australia, Canada and Indonesia, SeneGence International, a direct sales company specializing in longlasting cosmetics and anti-aging skin care, will branch out into the United Kingdom. “Our method of international expansion into a new country begins by first introducing the LipSense collection. Depending on how LipSense is received as well as the consumer purchasing habits in each respective country, we then progressively introduce our other longlasting color cosmetics and anti-aging skin care. Based on our research, the United Kingdom is a great market for expansion,” said SeneGence founder and chief executive officer Joni Rogers-Kante.

Puig Acquires Jean Paul Gaultier

• Puig has acquired majority control of

Nonwoven wipes have resonated with consumers, thanks to their ease of use and versatility.

nonwovens production and deliveries for 2010. The figures for Greater Europe (Western, Central and Eastern Europe, Turkey and CIS) show that after a decline in 2009, the production of nonwovens has not only recovered, but has overtaken its peak level of 2008. Total European production grew in weight by 10.3% since 2009 with 1,784,704 tons of nonwovens produced in 2010. This compares with the decline in the industry for 2009 of 6.3%. The level of production in square meters, which did not stop growing, reached 54.245 million in 2010, representing a total turnover estimated at approximately $7.9 billion. happi.com

Jean Paul Gaultier, purchasing a 45% stake in the French fashion house held by Hermès International and roughly 15% from the founding couturier. Manuel Puig, vice chairman of Puig and president of Nina Ricci, will also take on the president title at Gaultier, which the designer will relinquish to focus on designing couture and ready-to-wear collections for women, men and children. In 2016, Puig will take over Gaultier’s fragrance license, which is currently held by Beauté Prestige International, a subsidiary of Shiseido. “We are very proud to take up the baton from Hermès in the development of the Jean Paul Gaultier fashion house, a brand with such great creativity,” said Marc Puig, chairman and chief executive officer of Puig. Puig, a family company, operates in the fashion sector with its own brands Carolina Herrera, Nina Ricci and Paco Rabanne, and in the fragrance market through its own brands as well as through licenses from brands such as Prada, Valentino and Comme des Garçons among others. In 2010 Puig’s sales rose 22%.• June 2011

Marketing News

DOVE GIVES REAL WOMAN A CHANCE TO DANCE WITH THE STARS uled to debut in January 2012 and Vergara will be representing some innovative new additions to the brand’s product lineup, according to P&G. In recent months, Vergara’s career has soared—The New York Times named her one of 2010’s Faces to Watch, and she was featured in People’s “Most Beautiful”issue. She was also named one of the most talented and powerful women in Hispanic entertainment by The Hollywood Reporter and Billboard.

''Dancing with the Stars'' Season 10 performer Damian Whitewood, real woman Kristi Herman and actress Jennie Garth film the Dove VisibleCare commercial.

• Dove gave one woman the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to get a taste of what celebrities experience on ABC’s“Dancing with the Stars.” Kristi Herman, who was selected from the nearly 1,500 women who entered the Dove Close-Up Challenge, received a week of professional dance training and got her skin ready for the spotlight with Dove VisibleCare Body Wash, a new line of body wash from the Unilever brand. Herman had her ultimate spotlight moment in a Dove-sponsored TV spot airing in a commercial break during the season finale of“Dancing with the Stars,”which aired on Monday, May 23. Herman, from Jersey City, NJ, received an all-expense paid trip to Los Angeles to prepare for her big moment with DWTS Season 10 professional dancer Damian Whitewood. Actress and former “Dancing with the Stars” contestant Jennie Garth served as Herman’s confidence coach, preparing her for the spotlight.

• The Palmolive brand has joined forces with celebrity chef Cat Cora to offer simple solutions for combating cross-contamination during the cooking process. As a spokesperson for Ultra Palmolive Antibacterial Dish Liquid, Cora will help spread awareness to consumers about simple ways to sideline cross-contamination in the kitchen. Consumers in search of additional cleaning-while-you-cook solutions can visit www.palmolive.com where Cora offers expert tips on careful cooking preparation, exclusive recipes and video demonstrations about ways to keep the most common kitchen bacteria at bay. • Emmy nominated actress Sofia Vergara has inked her first beauty contract—with CoverGirl. Ads featuring the star are sched32 • happi

Sofia Vergara is the newest face of CoverGirl.

“We couldn’t think of a better person to represent our brand. Sofia is gorgeous inside and out and has broad appeal,”said Vince Hudson, general manager, CoverGirl.

• To celebrate its 125th anniversary, Bon Ami is issuing a limited supply of its original 1886 Formula Cleaning Cake, once a staple in households across America. Only 1,886 cakes will be available; they will be sold online at www.bonami.net and www.alice.com. Made from the same recipe of ground feldspar and tallow soap developed in the 1880s, the cakes are pressed, cured and cut into bars by hand. Over the years, the cleaning cake fell out of favor with consumers, but the recent cultural shift to thrift and thoughtful home keeping, and steady requests by fans to bring back the product inspired Bon Ami to make a limited batch of Bon Ami is whipping up a few more of those origcakes. inal 1886 Formula Cleaning Cakes.

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June 2011

Be Bold, Go Cold. Gelaid CPE is one “cool” silicone compound, designed for the ease of formulating cold process skin care products. No heat required with Gelaid CPE! Just add water and your expertise to produce a wide variety of stable skin care preparations. Formulations with Gelaid CPE leave a light, luxurious, non-greasy, after feel. Gelaid CPE is formulator friendly and easily modified with oils, esters, and active ingredients. If your formulation requirement is cyclic-free, ask about our new Gelaid CPE-CF. Contact Chemsil Silicones, Inc today and Gelaid CPE or Gelaid CPE-CF will provide time saving product development, formulation flexibility and energy saving manufacturing. Don’t get left out in the cold! Let Chemsil Silicones, Inc. supply your “cool” silicone solutions.

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Like the 1886 Original Formula Cleaning Powder, available in can-form year-round in hardware stores, the Cleaning Cake is a household workhorse, cleaning old glass windows, tile, stainless steel, mirrors and pots and pans, yet its simple ingredients are biodegradable. The cakes, which retail for $9.99, are packaged in a paper box, use no glues or sealants. A commemorative tin with a cleaning cloth will be available later this summer for $14.99, according to the company.

to give fans the opportunity to chat live with their favorite musicians through the brand’s Facebook page. More info: Facebook.com/toneskincare

• When Actress Christina Ricci walked the red carpet in front of the Metropolitan Museum of Art for the annual Costume Institute Gala in a custom creation by Zac Posen, she complemented her look with OPI-lacquered nails. Ricci’s manicure was created by mixing Samoan Sand and I’m Suzi and I’m a Chocoholic for an earthtoned rosy brown hue.

• Tom’s of Maine plans to bring back the beauty of smiles with its new, natural whitening toothpaste Simply White, and a partnership with Sheryl Crow’s “100 Miles From Memphis”concert tour, which kicked off May 7. The project Sheryl Crow is teaming up involves greening with Tom’s of Maine. the concert tour, b e a u t i fi c a t i o n events in key markets, a live chat with Sheryl Crow and an exclusive free song download for fans while supplies last. “We wanted to find a memorable way to introduce Simply White and celebrate natural beauty,” said Ellen Saksen, oral care associate brand manager at Tom’s of Maine. “Sheryl Crow is an American icon who shares our passion for the environment and healthy living. As we take Simply White on tour, we hope people will join us on the ground to bring back natural beauty and think about ways they can take care of their own natural beauty.” Through support from Tom’s of Maine and Reverb, Crow’s tour will feature sustainability changes such as biodiesel fuel, recycling bins at concert venues and a commitment to natural cleaning products, local and organic catering and reusable/biodegradable hospitality products, among other initiatives. At her tour venues, concertgoers can visit Tom’s of Maine at the on-site Eco-Village to learn more and to receive a free sample of Simply White toothpaste.

• Another brand making a concert connection is Henkel’s Tone. To celebrate new Vino Moisture Body Wash with Crushed Grape and Shea Butter, Tone is turning up its Backstage Pass Artist Series by partnering with Grammy-nominated artist Sara Bareilles. From live chats and an online tour diary to backstage meet and greets, the Tone brand says it is giving consumers exclusive access to the artist while she’s on tour this summer for her current album, Kaleidoscope Heart. Two lucky fans will win the Tone Body Wash Ultimate Backstage Pass, an all-expenses paid trip to New York City for a private picnic in the park with Sara prior to her show on Aug. 31. Tone brand’s Backstage Pass Artist Series was launched in 2010 34 • happi

• Crabtree & Evelyn has booked a major deal with Hilton Worldwide. Via a new worn by Christina Ricci. amenities partnership with the hotelier, the personal care firm will stock two new bath and body care product lines at more than 400 Embassy Suites Hotels and DoubleTree by Hilton properties across North America. Embassy Suites Hotels will feature Naturals by Crabtree & Evelyn as the all-suites brand’s bath amenities line. Naturals products are 99% naturally derived from botanicals. The brand previously featured Bloom amenities. DoubleTree by Hilton’s new line, Citron by Crabtree & Evelyn, features natural extracts of lemon, honey and coriander, as well as nourishing orchard fruits, purifying herbs and skin-conditioning properties, according to Crabtree & Evelyn. The brand previously featured Neutrogena products. Both families of bath amenities are botanically based and will include nourishing shampoo, conditioner and body lotion, combined with botanical facial and bath soap bars. The products are free of parabens, mineral oil and phthalates. The Citron and Naturals products in Crabtree & Evelyn stores and on Crabtree’s website with the exception of Citron hair care products which will be exclusive at DoubleTree hotels until late 2011. These OPI shades were

happi.com

Eucerin has tapped “Top Chef” judge and contributor to Food & Wine magazine Gail Simmons as the newest member of its Skin First

•

Gail Simmons is on Eucerin’s Skin First Council.

June 2011

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Council. Founded in 2010, the Eucerin Skin First Council was formed to bolster public dialogue about skin health and devise new ways to educate and empower consumers to treat skin care more like health care. The Eucerin Skin First Council works to raise awareness and encourage Americans to make the health of their skin a top priority and take the Eucerin Skin First Pledge. To date, more than 100,000 people across the country have pledged to put the health of their skin first.

• Actresses Eva Mendes and Naomi Watts have been named new celebrity ambassadors for Pantene. Starting next month, both women will appear in all elements of the brand’s holistic marketing campaign, including TV and print advertising, in-store displays, iMedia and public relations campaigns. Mendes will support the Breakage to Strength collection and Watts will support the Flat to Volume collection.

New Pantene spokesmodel Eva Mendez emotes for the camera.

With the announcement of Mendes as Pantene’s new ambassador, Pantene will also introduce the Split End Repair Crème to the current Medium-Thick Hair Solutions collection in July 2011. The keratin protection crème helps repair split ends and protect against future damage. Watts’ Pantene campaign will feature her natural hair—with no extensions, harsh texture-altering chemicals or other deceptive hair tricks to enhance her tresses. More info: www.pantene.com

• Award-winning Eylure’s false eyelash collection has made it to U.S. shores, exclusively at Ulta stores. Since its conception in 1947, Eylure has remained at the forefront of creation and innovation, producing gorgeous original lashes that have been worn by 36 • happi

iconic beauties like Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor, Ingrid Bergman and Marlene Dietrich. Eylure and Ulta have come together to premiere 22 false eyelashes from subtle to the dramatic.

• L’Oréal USA and Demand Media have inked a multi-dimensional partnership combining custom content and exclusive media designed to connect L’Oréal brands with women seeking personalized beauty solutions. The partnership will launch on two of Demand Media’s properties—typeF.com and eHow Style channel—and original content will also be available on a YouTube channel created for L’Oréal USA by Demand Media. Demand Media will create an original, high-quality video series for L’Oréal featuring brands such as Maybelline New York, Garnier, Redken, Lancôme and others that will provide relevant, helpful advice and practical how-to information. The exclusive video series will be featured on typeF.Com, L’Oréal’s YouTube channel and on L’Oréal’s sites. This model enables advertisers to reach consumers when they are actually finding what they are looking for online—at a point where intention is likely to be higher, according to the companies. • Rockin’ Green Cloth Diaper and Laundry Detergent hosted an international diaper changing event on April 23, the day after Earth Day. With more than 400 sites in 24 countries, Rockin’ Green hoped to set a Guinness world record for the most cloth diapers ever changed simultaneously. “Each year billions of disposable diapers enter landfills where it takes hundreds of years for them to decompose,” said Kim Webb, CEO/founder of Rockin’ Green and host site committee chair for The Great Cloth Diaper Change event in San Antonio. “Cloth diapers have come a long way in the past several years and this event is designed to be an eye opener and an inspiration for expecting and new parents to use cloth diapers, a more planet- and wallet-friendly alternative to disposable diapers.” • PureBioscience, Inc., creator of patented silver dihydrogen citrate (SDC) antimicrobial, is being lauded by the Child Safety Network (CSN), the non-profit children’s safety advocacy organization. CSN has named Pure the winner of its 2011 National Child Safety Award and has granted Pure Hard Surface disinfectant its Safe Family Seal of Approval. • Colomer’s Orofluido hair care brand has inked a partnership with Darrell Redleaf, celebrity hair stylist and beauty expert who has worked with Cameron Diaz, Demi Moore, Anne Hathaway,

happi.com

June 2011

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Christina Applegate, Helen Hunt, Kim Basinger, Joss Stone, Scarlett Johansson, Keira Knightley and Jewel. Viewers can check out “Platinum Hit,”Jewel’s new reality songwriting competition show, to see Redleaf’s work as he is Jewel’s hair stylist on the show.

• Ralph Lauren Romance, one of Ralph Lauren’s most beloved fragrances for women, has celebrated authentic romantic moments with iconic imagery of real-life couples since its launch in 1998. Now the company is introducing the next chapter in the Romance story—husband and wife Nacho Figueras and Delfina “Delfi” Blaquier. The pair will star in the 2011 Ralph Lauren Romance advertising campaign, shot by Bruce Weber. Another change for the brand—new campaign is portrayed in color for the first time, with stunning scenery illustrating the fairytale lives of the couple and exemplifying the world of the designer,

Nacho Figueras and Delfina "Delfi" Blaquier and family in the new Ralph Lauren Romance campaign.

who is renowned for his devotion to family traditions, authentic equestrian heritage and the sport of polo.

• Axe Shower and Comedy Central Digital have teamed up to develop the Axe Dirtcathlon, a four-part web series pitting coed teams against one another in crazy challenges designed to get them as messy as possible within 90 seconds. The series, hosted by actor/comedian Rob Riggle, appears on www.axedirtcathlon.com and will also be showcased on Comedy Central’s Atom.com website and on ComedyCentral.com, Spike.com, Jokes.com and other Viacom-owned properties. Each episode of the Dirtcathlon pits four guy and girl teams against each other in challenges. The contestants are competing for a chance to get extra dirty and win a trip to Spain to participate in an enormous tomato fight. In addition to the Dirtcathlon series, Axe has launched Dirty Dilemmas, an online game asking players to make difficult decisions between challenging scenarios like direct a dirty movie or star in a dirty movie? Or, shower on live television or shower in prison? The Dirtcathlon, Dirty Dilemmas and the new tagline, “The Cleaner You Are, The Dirtier You Get” are all in support of the Axe Shower, including a new, click-to-open cap that can be easily used with one hand and a more modern bottle design.

• MyChelle Dermaceuticals says it is revolutionizing skin care with the introduction of a breakthrough technology that provides access to an esthetician anytime, anywhere—with a smart phone or Skype. Using an iPhone 4, iChat or Skype, consumers can download a free app from iTunes and schedule an appointment for a 30-minute consultation with one of MyChelle Dermaceuticals’ licensed estheticians. The software offers personalized skin care analysis and product recommendations based on high resolution images of your skin type and a FaceTime discussion of individual skin concerns, according to the company. Founded in 2000, MyChelle offers a full line of highly therapeutic cleansers, treatments, serums, toners, nourishing creams, sun protection, men’s products and body care in natural product stores nationwide. • Kimberly-Clark Professional is boosting its commitment to the janitorial supply channel by strengthening its Cleaning & Hygiene organization via personnel changes, expanding sales force and boosting marketing and other programs to support and accelerate growth, the company said.

• Obagi Medical Products’s Nu-Derm Sun Shield SPF 50 has won a Self 2011 Healthy Beauty Award for Best Sunscreen for Face, SPF 50+ category. Church & Dwight Co., Inc., the maker of Nair depilatories, kicked off its annual “Step Out Challenge,” and invites

• 38 • happi

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June 2011

Marketing News

women—and, for the first time, men— to “bag the blade” for a week and use Nair. Those who try Nair and share their experiences will instantly receive free prizes from Grooveshark, a music-streaming website. They will also be entered to win

an all-expense paid weekend trip for two to a major concert of their choice, according to the company.

•SC Johnson recently held a recycling event to help employees, their families and

company retirees get rid of clutter while protecting the environment. The event, organized by employees in the company’s Business Process & Technology and Product Supply Environmental Operations groups, promoted safe disposal of personal used electronics and other hard-to-dispose of items. Approximately 33,000 pounds of materials were safely recycled, according to SC Johnson.

• Perrigo Company has received final approval from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration for its abbreviated new drug application for over-the-counter (OTC) Minoxidil Foam, a generic version of Men’s Rogaine Foam. Perrigo was sued for patent infringement by Stiefel Research Australia Pty. Ltd., a GSK Company, when it submitted its Paragraph IV ANDA. Under the terms of the settlement reached between the parties in February 2011, Perrigo can launch the generic version of Men’s Rogaine Foam in the U.S. on March 1, 2012, or earlier, under certain circumstances. The product will be entitled to 180 days of generic exclusivity upon launch. Rogaine (Minoxidil) Foam is used to regrow hair on the top of the scalp, and has annual sales of approximately $60 million, as measured by Information Resources, Inc. Obscene Jeans Corp. expanded its business profile with an online rollout of the new Obscene Beauty brand of all-natural beauty enhancement products. Obscene Beauty is the first fruit of OBJE’s global strategic profit alliance with Beijing Beautyfresh International Trade Co. (Beautyfresh), a company that Obscene Jeans has since acquired. Beautyfresh is one of only a handful of Chinese government-licensed import/export companies, and according to the terms of the alliance agreement, Beautyfresh is the sole distributor of OBJEbranded products in China, Greece and elsewhere around the globe under the company’s valid import license. Beautyfresh’s successful line of all-natural luxury soaps and other beauty products made using all-natural imported plant oils will

•

40 • happi

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June 2011

Marketing News

now be sold under the Obscene Beauty brand, the company said. More info: www.ObsceneBeauty.com

• NYX Professional Makeup has rolled out a redesigned website and its own YouTube Channel. Showcasing more userfriendly features, including a customer login capability to capture purchase history and save information for future purchase, a product comment and rating system, more true-to-color swatches, and a Tips section, the new site allows NYX customers to more easily purchase products, the brand said. NYX has also added two interactive features to the site including an internal blog called “Beauty Babble, The Blog” which chronicles fun favorites such as NYX’s latest, must-have products, as well as relevant beauty trends and looks. The NYX Cosmetics YouTube channel, which features three sections, Uploads, Favorites and Playlists, showcases items such as makeup tutorials, product launches, company programs and initiatives, and recent NYX event highlights. More info: www.nyxcosmetics.com

• OxiClean has teamed up with Laura Posada, wife of baseball player Jorge Posada, to entice Americans to explain why their hometown sports league needs help cleaning up their ball game. As sports funding at schools across the country gets cut, Church & Dwight’s goal was to help little sluggers with $10,000 for their sports organization in the “Brighten Up Your Ball Game” contest. Church & Dwight asked parents to submit their own story and photo on the newly launched OxiClean Facebook page on why their child’s softball or baseball organization needs help from OxiClean to brighten up their game. A team of OxiClean Umpires, including Posada and OxiClean pitchman Anthony Sullivan, will select the grand prize-winning organization. • Henkel’s Right Guard, the official deodorant and body wash of the NBA, awarded Kevin Love of the Minnesota Timberwolves with the “Best Smelling Player” June 2011

award. Right Guard selected Love, the 2011 Kia NBA Most Improved Player, based on his determination to hit the showers immediately after practice and encourage his fellow teammates to leave the stink on the court. Love is partnering with Right Guard

Body Wash in the “Love in the Shower” campaign, which started in May on ESPN, ESPN.com and ESPN mobile. Fans and consumers can participate in the promotion at www.LoveInTheShower.com or via the brand’s Facebook page. •

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®

happi • 41

Regulations

CSPA, ACI COMMENTS ON EPA SAFER CLEANING PRODUCT STANDARD •The American Cleaning Institute (ACI, formerly The Soap and Detergent Association) expressed continuing support for the federal government’s Design for the Environment (DfE) program, but is disappointed with its newly issued guidelines governing the qualification of products under the DfE’s Standard for Safer Cleaning Products. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), which administers the DfE program, issued updated criteria for product attributes required for cleaning products to qualify for DfE recognition. ACI said the agency’s position on such areas as ingredient communication, use of prohibited ingredient lists not vetted through U.S. stakeholders, asthmagens, allergens and sensitizers, and enzymes could pose barriers to participation, would set unfortunate precedents for mandatory programs in other jurisdictions, and are not warranted by the science surrounding the safety of these products and ingredients. Further, DfE has blurred the lines between what is purportedly a cleaning products standard with sections devoted to criteria for products designed for prolonged dermal contact, according to the associations. While DfE maintains that the move was made to broaden the sectors open for partnership, the associations insist it obscurs the purpose of this standard, which is to establish “minimum requirements for identifying cleaning products that meet the U.S. EnviIndustry Sees a Variety of Recalls From hair care to bathroom cleaners, the household and personal product industry has experienced several recalls in the past few months from the Consumer Product Safety Commission: • Approximately one million Redken Spray Mousse Foam Cans were recalled. The aerosol container’s liner can corrode over time, posing a risk of the cans rupturing and expelling its contents. Redken received 41 reports of cans rupturing. No injuries were reported at press time. This recall involved Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray Mousse Foam sold in 10.58- and 2-oz. size cans at salons and beauty supply stores nationwide from January 1998 through February 2011.

Scotch Toilet Bowl Restorer

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• The Procter & Gamble Company recalled more than 10 shades of Clairol Natural Instincts in the U.S., Canada and Puerto Rico. The company said it is taking the step due to a mismatched ColorFresh! Revitalizer sachet in the kits that may create an unwanted color result. The primary hair colorant was not affected.

ronmental Protection Agency’s DfE Safer Product Labeling Program (also known as the Formulator Program) criteria.” “DfE’s provisions for the listing of ingredients used in cleaning products are not consumer-friendly and would threaten companies’ ability to protect confidential business information (CBI). CBI protects the pipeline of innovation which leads to environmentallyfriendly cleaning products,”said Michelle Radecki, ACI vice president and general counsel. It remains to be seen whether the revised guidelines will discourage participation and undercut the program’s goal of encouraging the development of the kinds of products that are consistent with EPA’s mission, according to ACI. The Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) is pleased with the vast majority of what DfE incorporated in the new criteria as it struck a balance between greater transparency and protecting proprietary information. The new criteria goes beyond the industry’s voluntary Consumer Product Ingredient Communication Initiative launched in January 2010 as a way to provide greater transparency about ingredients in cleaning products. CSPA has remaining concerns about optional criteria for product-specific disclosure of fragrance materials; one of them regards the required use of CAS numbers because consumers will not easily understand them, according to the association. More info: www.cleaninginstitute.org, www.cspa.org

• Almost eight million candles were recalled at Pacific Trade International, as the gift sets posed a fire hazard. The candles have a clear, plastic cup that can melt or ignite, posing a fire and burn hazard to consumers. Pacific Trade has received one report of the plastic cup melting while in use. No injuries or property damage were reported at press time. The recall involved tea lights sold under the brand names Chesapeake Bay Candle and Modern Light in various colors.   • Scotch Corporation recalled its Instant Power Toilet Bowl Restorer because the contents can leak from the cap when the bottle is turned on its side. When this happens, the cleaner (model number 1803) can come into contact with consumers and property, posing a risk of chemical burns and irritation to the skin and eyes. At press time, Scotch has received seven reports of bottles leaking, resulting in property damage. Pacific Trade candle sets. More info: www.cpsc.gov

happi.com

June 2011

Gleams & Notions

MORE THAN MARKETING? A LOOK AT INGREDIENTS

I

N RECENT DECADES,

various ingredients from natural sources have been highly promoted in the cosmetic industry for their unique properties. A discussion follows describing some past and present so-called “marketing ingredients.” Royal jelly was popular as a skin product. This material is secreted from the heads of worker bees and fed to all bee larvae, but large amounts are fed only to larvae destined to be queens. The royal jelly is collected from individual queen cell honeycombs when the larvae are about four days old. This is not mass production as, during a season of five to six months, only approximately 500 grams can be collected. Royal jelly is composed of more than 65% water, 12.5% crude protein (including small amounts of different amino acids), 11% simple sugars (monosaccharides) and about 5% fatty acids. It also contains trace minerals, some enzymes, antibacterial and antibiotic components, and trace amounts of vitamin C. Despite all of these goodies, royal jelly is rarely used in cosmetics these days. Perhaps, it did not live up to its marketing claims, or it was too difficult to handle because it is perishable and must be refrigerated. Another natural animal product is lanolin. This wax has good skin protection

Harvey M. Fishman Consultant Harvey Fishman has a consulting firm located at 34 Chicasaw Drive, Oakland, NJ 07436, [email protected], specializing in cosmetic formulations and new product ideas, offering tested finished products. He has more than 30 years of experience and has been director of research at Bonat, Nestlé LeMur and Turner Hall. He welcomes descriptive literature from suppliers and bench chemists and others in the field.

44 • happi

properties and it can be used in systems by ethoxylation to make it water soluble, and has many skin and hair applications. It is still in use, but its inclusion in products is not being promoted. Possibly because it is an animal product, manufacturers are not stressing it, even though the sheep is not hurt when its wool is sheared—the source of the lanolin. Henna is a very old natural plant product made from Lawsone, which grows in Iran, India and North Africa. Henna has been used intermittently as a hair coloring agent since early Egyptian civilization where it was used for coloring finger nails, the palms and soles of dancing girls, and even the manes and tails of horses. Neutral henna, which does not color hair, but conditions it, comes from a different plant. It is applied to and left on hair for 30 minutes to an hour. When shampooed out, it provides luster and a smooth feel. Both hennas were very popular in the early 1980s, but are rarely used now, possibly due to the superiority of synthetic hair dyes, and the emergence and popularity of other ingredients. Also, because both hennas must be diluted before use, they may be an inconvenience for consumers. Jojoba is a hardy desert plant that grows wild in the Sonoran Desert of southern Arizona, southern California, Baja California and Sonora, Mexico. It has no natural enemies, no parasites and can survive long stretches of 120°F heat without water. Some of the important characteristics of jojoba liquid wax (or oil) include high temperature and pressure stability, good resistance to oxidation, absence of hardening upon exposure to air and good rancidity resistance. When applied directly to the skin, it gives a non-greasy, happi.com

smooth, emollient feel. It is still being used in formulas, but not as often as aloe vera, which is described below. Aloe vera grows in warm climates throughout the world. In the U.S., it is commercially grown in the Rio Grande Valley of Texas as well as in Florida. The thorny edge of its leaves gives the plant a cactus-like appearance, but it is really a member of the lily family. Inside the leaves is a thick gel that is responsible for topical applications in which anti-inflammatory, healing, moisturizing, and skin and hair substantivity properties are claimed. The gel has been used as a treatment for radiation burns, sunburn, skin ulcers and other skin irritations. Apparently, the gel is useful as a treatment for these conditions. However, when a diluted version of the gel is used in a cosmetic product in token (0.1%) levels, it obviously does not function. Yet, aloe vera has a good reputation with the public since it is incorporated and advertised in so many products. This is one marketing material with staying power! •

June 2011

EcoScrub™ & EcoSoft™

New Green Technology. Where Science and Nature Meet. More and more consumers are looking for eco-friendly products. Now there’s an affordable way to bring eco-qualities to personal care. Micro Powders® EcoScrub and EcoSoft are the perfect blend of science and nature … high-tech biodegradable powders from renewable sources, providing the outstanding benefits of our advanced micronizing technology.

EcoScrub, specifically formulated for your green exfoliating product; providing the same high performance of polyethylene powders. Available in a variety of particle sizes.

EcoSoft, a finely micronized powder, developed to enhance your green formulations in skincare and color cosmetics. If your business is personal care, green is the way to grow … with innovative eco-products from Micro Powders.

Innovation from Micro Powders

MICRO POWDERS, INC. Specialty Wax Additives Certified to ISO 9001

Patent Pending. www.MPIpersonalcare.com • 580 White Plains Road, Tarrytown, NY 10591 • Tel: 914.793.4058 • Fax: 914.472.7098

EuroTrends

EUROPEAN BODY CARE MARKET IS PLUMPED & PROSPEROUS

T

HE BODY care market in the Big 5 has,

for the most part, improved in the past year with all countries apart from France making value gains. After a couple of years in the doldrums, the UK made the biggest gains, with sales rising 4.3% in 2010. Germany and Italy experienced minor gains, though nothing to get too excited about while France, which is normally a real advocate of all things body care, declined as consumers lost interest or tried to save money.

Rough Around the Edges According to Mintel’s 2010 data, the French body care market hit the skids, somewhat, as value sales fell 2.6% to about $775 million with product sub-sectors such as gradual tanners in particular turning in sharp losses. The mass market also posted substantial losses with SymphonyIRI France reporting that gradual tanners here fell by a whopping 30% in the past year to total less than $10 million. In comparison, back in 2008, this sub-sector was worth nearly $19 million. Sales of toning and firming products also plunged 30% to $17.3 million in the past year. On a positive note, foot and leg product sales took a step in the right direction, increasing 5% to $33 million.

Natural products are still very on trend when it comes to French body care and there was one company really leading the charge here. Natural and organic brand Melvita launched Algascience, a collection of Ecocert-certified products originally developed for use in balneotherapy spas. Huile Minceur is a slimming oil that combines hyperoxygenated olive oil to decongest and regenerate and geranium and lavender essential oil to reduce water retention and stimulate blood microcirculation. Firming properties are also provided by red seaweed while Amazonian andiroba and bellis oils help to drain and tone. Other products in the range include Gel Minceur, which is claimed to help reduce water retention to leave the waist more defined and firmer, and Crème Minceur, which can be used to complement the slimming oil, and Gommage Corporel for intense exfoliation. Dr. Hauschka’s Regenerating Body

Firming Up

Katie Middleweek Editor, European Cosmetic Markets European Cosmetic Markets is published monthly by HPCi Media Limited. It provides in-depth data and analysis of the European cosmetics and toiletries market. For subscription details contact HPCi Media Limited, Tel: (44) 0207 193 7447 • Fax: (44) 20 7549 8622

46 • happi

consumers were still buying up products to address this need. And that is where local domestic company Dr. Hauschka came in, recently launching its new Regenerating Body Moisturizer, which is said to give skin the feeling of being firmed, toned and refined. With its selective medicinal herbs, this product helps the skin preserve and regulate moisture while supporting its ability to self-generate. High quality extracts of plants such as red clover, field horsetail, marshmallow and birch leaves stimulate the innate regenerative powers of the skin, according to the company, as well as helping to firm the connective tissue and refine the skin’s structure, resulting in skin that should feel silky to the touch.

Bella Corpo

The Italian body care market had reason to smile in the past year as it grew 1.2% to nearly $690 million, according to Unipro. This compared with a rather meager 0.2% growth in 2009 so Italians definitely seem to be increasingly interested in getting their bodies in tip-top shape. Anti-cellulite products are always a favorite of Italian consumers. Sales in this category rose a healthy 4.9% to about $142 million. And another category that is definitely on the rise is that of scrubs and preparation creams. To that end, French company Sephora, which is a niche favorite

Moisturizer gets skin firmed, toned

The Germany body care and refined. market has gone through tough times of its own in recent years but fortunately things seem to be on an upswing of late. According to data from SymphonyIRI Germany, the German body care market is inching in the right direction, growing 0.8% last year to $588 million. However sales of adult body care products fell 1.3% to about $438 million, while products for hands and feet each grew 7.3% to $105 million and $44 million, respectively. The market for products for dry or very dry skin rose 1.5%, which showed that German happi.com

June 2011

EuroTrends

with Italian consumers, launched a brand new skin care line, Skin Care Sephora, with one product in particular a big hit with customers wanting smoother skin. The Sugar Body Scrub, which is featured in the Coral line, includes red sugar and peach oil in its formula which is said to leave skin silky smooth without any aggravation. And this is an increasingly key factor for Italians when it comes to choosing what they will put on their skin.

Silky Smooth After several months of stagnation, the UK body care sector is finally moving onward and upward, according to figures from Kantar Worldpanel. The market for body skin care increased significantly, rising 4.3% to reach $550 million by the end of February 2011, as volume increased in line with value, rising 4.6%. These figures proved to be the most robust in the mar-

ket and are testament to the fact that UK manufacturers are renewing investment in this sector. The UK body care market as a whole was somewhat dominated by creams and lotions, which made up 49.5% and 40.7% of the body skin care market, respectively. Meanwhile, the fastest growing product type was oil, which increased its market share by 17% year-on-year—although it still accounted for just 2.4% of total body skin care sales in the country. The Body Shop, a popular UK retailer, took a two-tiered approach to moisturization introducing Body Butter Duo, a single pot with two compartments containing one body butter for normal skin and another for the dry skin found on shins and elbows. The butters are available in floral açai, vanilla, macadamia and sweet pea fragrances. This rather inventive idea is becoming hot property with customers

Italians love Sephora’s Sugar body scrub.

and many people are commenting on beauty blogs that The Body Shop has answered a much-needed requirement with this product! The body care category is always going to have its ups and downs but there are so many formats, from gels to creams, and from lotions to oils, that it should always be an interesting category with much new product development innovation pumped in. No wonder then, that body care looks set for a smooth future. •

Some people would go to the ends of the earth for silkier, shinier hair.

At Lipo®, we call them scientists . ®

Natural , found i exotic ingredie n t nts corners he far-reachin g of the earth.

Nobody knows where the next big ingredient is going to come from. But at Lipo, we never stop looking for it. So along with formulating technologies and platforms that help companies use it, our scientists go to great lengths—and depths—to find the next big idea in skincare, haircare and color cosmetics. After all, beauty may be only skin deep, but at Lipo we dare to look beneath the surface.

BEAUTY IS OUR SCIENCE® www.lipochemicals.com

News from Latin America

ROBUST GROWTH FOR L’ORÉAL THROUGHOUT LATIN AMERICA ’ORÉAL IS ON A TEAR in Latin America. Sales in the region soared 32% to $404 million in the first quarter of 2011, a gain that exceeded the company’s results in Europe. “Growth is strong in all countries (of Latin America), particularly in Brazil and Argentina,” said a statement issued by the company.

L

sition, but could be the first of several, as company executives insist that other brands are already on the radar screen. For example, Ferreira did not rule out the interest in cosmetics brands of Bertin group, holder of eight brands of cosmetics acquired within five years. Bombril wants to diversify its portfolio and get in on the growth being posted by the personal care sector in Brazil.

New Players

Hair Raising Numbers

A newcomer to the personal care market, Perrelli Cosmeticos, located in Pernambuco, is a unit of Demetrius Valencia. Perrelli’s goal is to sell quality cosmetics at reasonable prices ($37.50) to consumers in the northeast region of Brazil. A direct selling operation, Perrelli will go head-to-head with the likes of Avon and Natura. Bombril, a manufacturer of steel wool and other cleaning products for the home, will announce in the coming weeks its plans to enter the cosmetics industry. The company is negotiating the purchase of a domestic company, whose products are found in pharmacies, drugstores and perfumeries. According to Ronaldo Sampaio Ferreira, president of the company, it’s a small acqui-

Hair Brasil International Beauty, Hair and Esthetics was a big hit. The tradeshow, which was held in April in Saõ Paulo, attracted a record 80,000 professional visitors, including hairdressers, beauticians, manicurists and salon managers. There were 800 exhibiting brands, which have launched new products during the fair. The growth of the market was underpinned by greater participation of Brazilian companies and also 40% more international exhibitors.

Sueli Ortega Correspondent Sueli Ortega has written for Isto É and O Estado de São Paulo. Since Correspondent since 1987 for Cosmetics International. In addition, she created the beauty channel for El Sitio, an Argentinean website and the Women Channel. She has her own website, Cosmeticos BR and can be reached at [email protected]

48 • happi

More Investments Mary Kay has aggressive plans for Brazil. Already one of the largest direct selling companies in the world and with 71,500 consultants in Brazil, Mary Kay wants to end 2011 with 100,000 consultants. But adding to the sales staff is just one phase to boost results in Brazil and other countries in the region. David Holl, Mary Kay’s CEO, was in Brazil in April to open a new office in São Paulo. He told the press that part of the plan to increase these gains might be the installation of a factory in the country within five years, based on the expectation of growth of the local operation. “We are gaining greater scale, then the investment might come to be justified in the near future,” he said. The group also invested in a new distribution center in city of Barueri (SP), four times larger than the former. The company plans end the year with 160 employees in the new headquarters (currently 60 perhappi.com

Growth is a beautiful thing in Latin America.

sons) and with a 70% increase in the number of launches in Brazil. Meanwhile, O Boticario, world’s largest network of franchises of cosmetics and perfumes, has opened another store for the Native Spa body care line. At press time, another store was set to open in a São Paulo shopping center. The $5 million investment will be operated by franchisees offering only Nativa Spa products, one of the most successful O Boticario lines, which boasts 163 SKUs. The new store is geared toward professionals and will include body massage. According to O Boticario, from 2007 to 2009, Native Spa’s sales grew three times faster than the Brazilian personal care market overall and twice as fast as the O Boticario brand for the same period. In April, O Boticario Group opened four Eudora stores. For the first three months, operations are restricted to São Paulo and the metropolitan area, but the company expects Eudora to reach the entire national territory by the end of the year.

Subsidiary in Good Shape The worldwide president of L’Occitane, Reinold Geiger, was in Brazil a while back to tout the company’s 2010 results in June 2011

News from Latin America

on class A and B, which has buying power to purchase our products, but still doesn’t know the brand. So the potential is great.”

São Paulo has become the cosmetics center of Latin America.

A Perfume for Couples

Brazil. The subsidiary’s sales surged 30% last year, after making its debut in 2009. L’Occitane currently has 70 stores in 18 Brazilian cities, with more than 150 points of sale throughout the country and is already the leading international brand in the Brazilian retail sector. In the current fiscal year, which began

April 1, L’Occitane wants to grow 35%. To help achieve that goal, the company opened a new distribution center in Jundiai (SP), which is expected to help triple distribution, which will help it reach its 2011 goal of having approximately 100 shops in the country, according to Ana Chaia, president of the company in Brazil. “Our focus is

Natura’s Amó line, which speaks of love and is designed to be used by couples, has expanded its portfolio to include Amó Xodó Deodorant Female Cologne and Amó Xodó Chantilly Body Moisturizer. Products were conceived to stimulate touch and intimacy, invitations to put love in motion, according to the company. The fragrance features fresh topnotes such as bergamot, cardamom, mandarin, pepper and lime. The heart includes lavender, jasmine, aqueous flowers, a tea chord and exclusive essential oils. Base notes include musk, cedar sandalwood and guaiac, according to Veronica Kato, Natura’s perfumer, who co-created the perfume with Ursula Wandel of Givaudan.•

Visit us at the HBA Global booth # 1356 and Cosmoprof North America booth #B 15176

June 2011

happi.com

happi • 49

TheBrand & AdAudit

DIAL UP A WINNER WITH NUTRISKIN LOTION

G

OODNESS KNOWS, the world doesn’t need another body lotion! Dial got that message and decided to break away from its comfort zone in cleansing and body washes by entering the supercompetitive body care category, with a strong nutrition positioning, NutriSkin Replenishing Lotion. Yes, there are body lotions out there with assorted vitamins and ingredient claims, but by preempting, with the powerful new category segment name, it’s on the way to a successful launch, with build-ability. The more you put the news, competitive advantage and unique benefit in the name, the easier it is for the consumer to perceive it—after all, it’s usually the first thing she sees on the package. Enter NutriSkin, with an astounding, high-value regular price of $7.99 at CVS. (See the chart on p. 52 for some comparison pricing in the high-need, dry skin body lotion category.) Plus, there’s plenty of added value created by the new segment name, package and print execution—all thereby re-

Suzanne Grayson Grayson Associates TheBrandAudit and TheAdAudit are Grayson Associates’ proprietary testing techniques to determine the success potential of new product concepts and execution, and

Dial NutriSkin ad

warded with very good audit scores. It comes in two versions: Dry Skin, with true aloe, and Extra Dry Skin, with shea butter; both names have strong visual elements on the package. Here’s the impact lesson. Usually, the package design is put to bed well before the advertising is completed, and by different creative teams, thereby no doubleimpact relationship. Looks like someone in charge timed it so the advertising could impact package design for maximum shelf impact—and it worked. Congratulations for a significant achievement —the consumer can recall the ad visual in-store, on the shelf. Truly a rarity! Let’s start with theBrandAudit’s overall score of 81.61. The Product segment is

BrandAudit (Complete*)

existing products and advertising, the audits analyze

CATEGORY SCORE

their strengths and weaknesses against key competi-

measures Headline, Visual Impact, Copy, and Con-

Product Positioning Consumer Appeal Competition Marketing Potential

16.38 19.22 17.88 10.80 17.33

81.90 85.40 89.40 72.00 77.00

sumer Appeal. TheBrand & AdAudit appears bi-

Total

81.61

Effective

monthly. Contact: [email protected]

* with product analysis

analysis of Product, Positioning, Consumer Appeal, Competition, and Marketing Potential. TheAdAudit

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AdAudit

the

print advertising—prior to approval. For both new and

tion. TheBrandAudit “keys to success” are based upon

81.90, which is effective, but not breakthrough. A “lasts 24 HRS” claim at the bottom front of the bottle, described on the back as 24-Hour Intense Hydration, is not translated to a skin benefit. The key strengths were in the Positioning segment with 85.4 and, Consumer Appeal, 89.4. Product name was the driver in Positioning, with perfect scores in all of its naming segments; including, “establishing the category” and“projecting benefits.”In contrast, this segment’s Permission-to-Believe was mostly absent, relying only on the strong ingredient graphic on the package, without specific skin benefit claims or their support, nor a description/expectation for the “healthy” skin claim. The issue for all new products/category segments, many of which are linked to ingredients; i.e., nutrition, nutriceuticals, cosmeceuticals, natural, and of course, organic, is that they usually don’t/can’t link them to higher benefits/claims in packaging or advertising copy. Here, the front label copy describes key ingredients’ functions, and how they work, but with no benefit descriptions/claims and without Permissionto-Believe, the essential link to perceiving benefits and, therefore, no conviction. In the highly competitive body lotion category, especially with so many similar-sounding names and claims, from equally respected companies, price becomes a decisive factor with the consumer. The net is that Permission-to-Believe becomes the high-value component for conviction and trial.

happi.com

% ACHIEVED

the

CATEGORY SCORE

% ACHIEVED

Headline Visual Impact Copy Consumer Appeal

23.80 26.66 19.00 16.25

95.20 96.95 76.00 72.20

Total

85.71

Very Effective

Copyright: Grayson Associates, 2010

June 2011

TheBrand & AdAudit

Regular Price*

(ozs.)

Price per oz.

$7.29

21.0

$ 0.347

CVS promotion

4.99

21.0

0.238!

Aveeno

Active Naturals

12.99

15.0

0.866

Curel

Skin Nourishing

7.00

13.0

0.538

Eucerin

Dry Skin Therapy

14.99

16.5

0.887

Gold Bond

Ultimate-Shea Butter

11.49

14.0

0.821

Nivea Essentials

Very Dry Skin

8.79

13.5

0.651

Brand NutriSkin

Product Replenishing Lotion

Size

*5/1/11 Dry skin products, CVS regular pricing.

The Consumer Appeal, (Extra Dry Skin) strong score, 89.40, was heavily influenced by package appeal and price/value relationship. Competition, 72.0, usually difficult, was supported by “value added vs. competition.” Marketing Potential, 77.0, was higher than the usual low 70s scores, because it is new business to the company. Two segments of TheAdAudit’s 85.71 score were responsible for the high total score: Headline (95.20) and Visual Impact (96.95). While it’s not usually a good idea to just use the product name as the headline, in this case the long headline just works. “Introducing NEW! NutriSkin Lotions Your daily dose of healthy skin nutrition,” that’s

52 • happi

the positioning statement and headline-inone, and does it all: stops the reader, names the new category segment, targets with relevance, triggers emotion and has news value—hard to do better than that. The visual is even stronger with perfect scores in half the segments (stopping power, package ID, pleasing to the eye), and close to perfect, in the rest. The key kudos go to the healthy exercise visual with the engaging model and its duplication on the package label, coupled with the prominent “healthy” bio nutrient complex of ingredients. As noted above, the repetition of the health-associated, circular element—in both the ad and the package— is outstanding. Finally, the very average

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scores of Copy (76.00) and Consumer Appeal (72.20) were limited by both a lack of Permission-to-Believe and Permission-toBuy. Note that there is not one skin benefit described in the ad, either. P-T-Believe is always a crucial element for conviction, and even more so in the body category, which may be described as“commodity,”wherein, the lowest price has the advantage. With NutriSkin, already at the bottom of the price ladder, its climb up the sales ladder is sure to be swift. (For the individual columns Permission-to-Believe, November 2010 and Permission-to-Buy, March 2011, just write to [email protected].) •

June 2011

Human Capital Management

MOTIVATION SECRETS

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OOKING FOR NEW WAYS to motivate and inspire your employees? These days, most savvy managers know that it takes more than a pat on the back and a holiday bonus to keep employees motivated, engaged and productive throughout the year. They also know that the more engaged and productive the workforce is, the greater the impact will be on the company’s bottom line. With an increasingly diverse workforce, managers have had to dig even deeper to uncover the secrets of how to keep their employees performing at peak levels. Motivating factors can be as diverse as each employee. For some it’s a sense of accomplishing something meaningful, while others are fueled by a sense of stability and belonging. Coming up with one plan that will positively impact all employees can seem like an impossible task. The following five secrets to motivation will help you to improve your communication with your staff, align employees with the company’s vision and maximize your bottom line.

Patrick B. Ropella President, Ropella Patrick B. Ropella is president & CEO of Ropella, the leading executive search and consulting firm specializing in the chemical and consumer products industries. Ropella grows great companies through executive search, leadership transformation and organizational improvement. For more information, visit www.Ropella.com or call (850) 983-4777. His new book, The Right Hire - How to Master the

Open communication makes for a happy staff.

Open Communication Studies of exit interviews have shown that the number one complaint of employees is most often lack of communication with management. Simply put, employers who communicate freely and openly with their staff about company goals and decisions have a higher rate of retention than those who keep their employees in the dark. By keeping the lines of communication open with your staff, you can eliminate the possibility that rumors and misconceptions can creep their way in and create a cancer in the company. Ideally, managers should meet with their staff on a weekly basis in an organized, yet relaxed atmosphere where the employees can ask questions and get answers to their concerns, share their ideas and voice their opinions. Focus on communicating company goals in a clear and concise manner. Let the staff know how their jobs impact the company’s overall mission and you will, at the same time, be providing the employee with a sense of individual purpose, sense of stability and a feeling of trust.

Art of SMART Talent Management, is available at

Clear Expectations

www.Ropella.com/therighthire

Most employees work well when clear ex-

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pectations are set for them from the get-go. Take the guesswork out of things, and meet regularly with your people to discuss job duties and to set realistic goals. Give them something to work toward, and make sure they have the tools to get the job done right. Ask for feedback from them as they work toward their goals, and remember to be positive and offer only constructive criticism if they encounter roadblocks along the way. Monitor the amount of responsibility given to each person and be careful not to unnecessarily overload anyone. There is a balance between not enough work and too much work where employees thrive without feeling overwhelmed. Seek to achieve that balance with the help and input of your people.

Fuel Their Passion In the years since 9/11, the trend in the workplace is to find some higher meaning to what people do. Not everyone can be a firefighter or find the cure for cancer, but you can help your employees uncover their drive. Get people involved; let them volunteer for projects or head committees. If possible, offer continuing education and training in areas that will help take your June 2011

Human Capital Management

staff to the next level. By helping people improve themselves, you will be giving them an internal sense of self-worth and purpose. This will trigger an untapped source of motivation and will help your staff develop into a group of confident, top producers. When challenges arise, set up smaller focus groups to work on developing solutions. Encourage people to share their ideas, challenge each other and brainstorm. Nothing’s better for motivating a tapped out staff than a good dose of stimulation.

Reward and Recognize Different things motivate different people. History has shown that financial benefit is sometimes overrated. Don’t overlook the benefits of some good old-fashioned recognition and genuine appreciation. Psychologists have been studying motivation since what seems like the beginning of time. One notable psychologist, B.F. Skinner, discovered that many behaviors could be controlled, or motivated by the use of rewards. Mr. Skinner conducted his experiments primarily on rats and used pellets as rewards—if only the business world was as simple! However, his ideas can be applied to the workforce if you take the time to uncover what that magic pellet means for each person. For some it may be public recognition for a job well done or the flexibility to leave work a few hours early after finishing a big project. It does not have to mean a big dent in your budget, but it must be meaningful to your employees. Solicit their ideas, ask for their input and then decide on a compromise as to what’s beneficial for them and for the company.

Break Down Barriers Be careful not to stifle creative license and independence with too many rules and policies and by micromanaging. Often times, there is an invisible barrier between employees and management that creates a lack of trust. Help to break down those barriers by giving your staff the right to certain freedoms. There is a time and place for rules, but, in general, companies should operate on the premise that employees are trustworthy individuals. Give your people June 2011

the room they need to grow and develop into self-sufficient, productive employees and you will find that their levels of motivation will go through the roof. Motivation takes many forms. As you begin to uncover what works best for your

team, you will realize that it takes more than money to motivate people. It takes clear, consistent communication of goals and expectations, an environment built on mutual respect and trust, and most of all, good coaching. •

Transitioning to Naturals? Alpha can help.

Alpha R &D is expert in the science, art and production of the highest quality essential oils. If you currently use natural aroma ingredients or are contemplating the transition, consider Alpha for support in: • analyzing essential oils and aroma ingredients • customizing blends of essential oils and fragrances • sourcing finest quality essential oils/absolutes • aroma training and information • assisting in creating aromatherapy products Dr. Nadim Shaath, President of Alpha R&D, has 30 years of experience researching, testing, aroma training, distilling/extracting florals, seeds and herbs and formulating custom blends for Aromatherapy. Alpha is the exclusive distributor of the products of Hashem Brothers of Egypt, growers and distillers of organic essential oils and the supercritical CO2 essential oils of Sanvardhini of India. To find out how we can help your company contact the team of experts at Alpha Research & Development, (914) 761-7141 or [email protected]. Dr. Nadim Shaath President, Alpha R&D

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Anti-Aging & Cosmeceutical Corner

INFLAMMATION’S CONFLICTING ROLE IN BEAUTY & AGING

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REMENDOUS STRIDES have been made in the field of anti-aging medicine since the publication of Dr. Nicholas Perricone’s first book, “The Wrinkle Cure,“ in 2000. In it, he introduced the inflammation-aging theory, placing chronic invisible inflammation at the center of age-related diseases and degenerative conditions. His theory was often dismissed with ridicule or skepticism or both! Science now recognizes its validity and its serious threat to health and longevity. In fact, inflammation is a new industry buzzword. Inflammation is an essential response by the body to keep out infection. There are several states of inflammation from the highly visible, red sunburn, pimple or rash, to the invisible, which is indeed responsible for the aging process. This column will review the dual role of inflammation in beauty and ageing. To put it succinctly, inflammation is a result of formation of wound or UV damage via several pathways including nuclear

Navin M. Geria VP-R&D SpaDermaceuticals

Anti-inflammatories calm skin to prevent flushing and skin sensitivity.

Navin M. Geria is vice president of research and development for SpaDermaceuticals, Martinsville, NJ. He has more than 30 years of experience in the personal care industry and was previously with Pfizer, Warner-Lambert, Schick, Bristol-Myers and, most recently, LeDerma Consumer Products Laboratories. He has earned over 15 U.S. patents, has been published in cosmetic trade magazines and has been both a speaker and moderator at cosmetic industry events. E-mail: [email protected]

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factor-KappaB (NF-KB)- mediated activation of tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNFalpha) and interleukins.1

Inflammation and Beauty All in-office procedures, including acid peels, dermabrasion and laser resurfacing, work so well to beautify the skin because they induce a low-level skin inflammation. According to Dr. David Leffell of Yale Unihappi.com

versity, these intentional injuries that cause the skin to repair itself is accomplished through inflammation. Here the assault is quick, and once the tiny wounds are repaired, the new collagen has been created to knit the surface of the skin back together and the cascade switches off. This skin beautifying job is accomplished by lowlevel, self-limiting, deliberately-induced skin inflammation. June 2011

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PhytoCellTec™ Argan will not only help to accelerate the skin’s natural repair process, but also uniquely provide a second chance for every type of skin.

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Anti-Aging & Cosmeceutical Corner

Inflammation and Aging In contrast, aging is due to invisible chronic inflammation. According to Dr. Bryan Fuller of Oklahoma City University, chronic inflammation prevents damaged cells from self-destructing, enabling them

to proliferate and potentially transform into cancer. When a cell is irritated, it releases inflammatory substances such as cytokine and histamine, which alert the immune system to the irritation. The immune system responds by rushing leukocytes to the site of irritation, which becomes red because leukocytes get mixed with red blood cells. Leukocytes also release a chemical called cytokine, which signals cells to produce protease enzyme. This enzyme breaks

Avocado oil is noted for its antiinflammatory properties...

down collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid that are responsible for skin firmness, elasticity and moisture content, respectively. The outer portion of the cell known as the cell plasma membrane is attacked by sunlight-induced free radicals resulting in the release of fatty acid, called arachidonic acid, which is readily transformed into powerful inflammation-causing chemicals. These free radicals stimulate the production of a compound in cells, called nuclear factor Kappa B (NFKB), which turns on production of harmful compounds, influencing microscarring and giving birth to wrinkles. Sunlight also activates another messenger in the cell, AP-1, which signals the cell to produce enzymes which break down collagen, eventually resulting in aging skin. Many of these reactions take place simultaneously, at a slow pace, producing a gradual deterioration of the skin.

Our anti-aging

Our “Feelosophy” is about enhancing Personal and Home Care applications to create a holistic product experience in four key dimensions: We research what consumers perceive and feel, improve the effect of formulations and develop technologies to simplify product usage. Take anti-aging. We elucidate the mechanism of action of our active ingredients. More importantly, we ensure that end-users see and experience the efficacy. Our anti-aging concepts, whether via skin integrity preservation or mechanical and biological stress relief, are effective and feel effective. How about joining our well-being Feelosophy?

Anti-Aging & Cosmeceutical Corner

Topical and Oral Anti-Inflammatories There are more than 50 different topical products in the marketplace with powerful anti-inflammatory activity. According to the results of a litera-

and so is spinach!

ture search, Perricone patented many topical anti-inflammatory ingredients in the early 1990s. Topical vitamin E is also an antiinflammatory antioxidant. Chamomile leaves have a well-established anecdotal reputation for their soothing, antiinflammatory properties. Other botanicals including aloe, licorice, kukui nut, shea butter and avocado oil have been studied for their anti-inflammatory properties with proven benefits. Anti-inflammatories are used both to treat active redness and to calm skin to prevent flushing and skin sensitivity.

Foods that tame inflammation include greens such as kale, spinach, brussel sprouts, dark leafy vegetables, salmon, flaxseeds, legumes, turmeric and fruits such as blueberries and strawberries. Understanding inflammation will permit development of various therapeutic interventions that would minimize or prevent inflammation and subsequent aging of the skin. By linking so many illnesses to inflammation, researchers are now rethinking their assumptions about what makes us sick and are looking for ways to treat inflammation and perhaps avoid these outcomes. It is important to avoid irritating the skin. This means avoiding unprotected skin exposure to sun and stripping the skin with cosmetic preparations containing harsh chemicals.•

References: 1. Quan. T et al, Am. J. Pathol. 2004, 165:741-51.

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LOADS OF Innovation Washloads, that is. Henkel and Procter & Gamble are delighting consumers with several new laundry product launches that may help push the industry forward and category sales higher. Tom Branna • Editorial Director

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HO SAYS INNOVATION is dead? Just when the detergent category was limping along, two of the sectors biggest players, Procter & Gamble and Henkel, have revitalized the sector with interesting new products that promise to provide lifts to somewhat soggy categories. According to SymphonyIRI Group, a Chicago-based market research firm, laundry detergent sales fell 4.19% to $3.5 billion for the 52 weeks ended April 17, 2011 in food, drug and mass merchandisers, excluding Walmart. P&G dominates the liquid laundry detergent segment with a 59% share of the market, according to SymphonyIRI, and its share of the powder segment is a whopping 71%. First up, though is Henkel, which in-

troduced Purex Complete Crystals Softeners earlier this year. According to the company, the product’s unique crystal form works differently than traditional oil-based softeners that coat fabrics with oily residue. Purex Complete Crystals Softener is said to be easier to use than traditional softeners because it is added directly to the laundry load at the beginning of every wash cycle. Moreover, the softener promises to preserve flame retardant benefits of baby’s and children’s clothes, retain the wicking ability of athletic wear, maintain a towel’s built-in ability to absorb water and will keep white

Purex Laundry Crystals, available in an assortment of scents, is selling well at Henkel.

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clothes from yellowing and graying. Since its debut, Henkel has gotten distribution commitments for Purex Complete Crystals Softener from almost every major retailer in the U.S. And while it’s still early, Purex Complete Crystals Softeners is doing very well and is tracking to be more than a $70 million business at retail in its first year, maintain Henkel executives. According to the most recent SymphonyIRI data, the launch of Purex Complete Crystals Softener has doubled Henkel’s fabric softener market share in the U.S. and allowed Henkel to surpass other wellknown companies to become the fourth largest fabric softener in the category, according to the company. Stephen Koven, Henkel’s senior brand manager, fabric care, credits the successful launch to several factors, including convenience, the natural trend and product performance. He pointed out that consumers are multi-tasking more than ever, trying to gain a minute or two here and there. By dosing their laundry loads at the beginning happi • 61

• Laundry Detergent

of the cycle, consumers don’t have to wait around for the rinse cycle. “It has been estimated that consumers spend four days of their lives waiting around for the rinse cycle,”observed Koven. “We just gave them four days back. Crystals are simpler and more convenient.” In addition, Purex Complete Crystals taps into the natural trend, something that Henkel has been a leader in for decades. “Henkel has always been green,” explained Koven. “Sustainability is a core value. We’re in the 20th year of reports on our global footprint. Green is in our DNA.” Taken together, they add up to a successful launch for Henkel. “Retail sales are exceeding expectations and consumers love it,” observed Koven. “We see that repeat is quite strong too.” To keep the good times going, Henkel has invested in traditional FSIs as well as audio shelf liners at retail, created a fan base on Facebook and developed mobile apps for smart phones. “As mobile becomes a bridge to the home and store, we want to connect to where the consumer is,” explained Koven. “Tens of thousands are using these applications. It’s a great way to be a resource to them on laundry care.” At the same time, Purex has expanded its presence on social networks and has nearly 200,000 fans on Facebook. But Henkel won’t have the segment to itself for much longer. In September, P&G will introduce Downy Unstoppables, its own version of crystal fabric softeners.

More from Henkel Purex Complete Crystals may be the newest laundry product from Henkel, but

Fels-Naptha is a popular solid laundry soap.

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Henkel calls 20 Mule Team Borax, an all-natural laundry booster.

it isn’t the only laundry line that’s posting good results for the company. FelsNaptha’s sales have jumped from about $1 million in 2008 to $1.7 million last year, for a compound annual growth rate of more than 30%. In tough economic times, the value-based brand (Fels-Naptha bars cost just $1) has boosted its distribution and has proven to be a hit with the growing Hispanic population in North America. “There aren’t too many 100-year-old products that are posting double-digit growth,” observed Koven, who noted that some consumers purchase Fels-Naptha for its green story and others for its value proposition. Another Henkel brand that’s benefitting from the green trend is 20 Mule Team Borax. The brand’s FDMx sales rose from $11 million in 2008 to $13.5 million for a CAGR of nearly 11%.

Pods for Growth? Despite Henkel’s success, P&G has dominated the U.S. laundry detergent and fabric softener categories for decades. Tide and Downy have led their respective markets in good times and in bad, through economic booms and busts. And through every economic cycle, consumers have hated doing laundry, according to Petra Stovickova, Procter & Gamble external relations, fabric care, North America. “We realized that many women are not satisfied with the results or the laundry happi.com

process itself,” said Stovickova. “It is actually no wonder as it's been three decades since the last big innovation was brought to them in the form of Tide liquid detergent.” To answer the unmet needs of consumers, P&G is rolling out Tide Pods, which it calls a new generation of Tide, and a powerful detergent that works in all temperatures and both in traditional top load and high efficiency washing machines. Prior to launch, more than 6000 consumers took part in research involving more than 450 packages and product sketches. To deliver the small, liquid unit dose, a new formula was created that is high-efficiency machine compatible and twice as compact as current 2x Tide liquid. The three-chamber unit dose design allows the chemistry matrix to work synergistically in the wash, according to P&G. Like Cascade unit dose products, consumers can hold Tide Pods in the palm of their hand and conveniently, without spills, can add the product in one step to the wash load, according to Stovickova, who noted that in tests, Tide Pods has been a huge hit with consumers. “After using Tide Pods, 97% of consumers were satisfied with the time, effort and excellent results experienced,” she explained. “In the past (before Tide Pods) the scores typically only reached 68%. Moreover, unit dose has become the number one selling form for Cascade and Tide Stain Release in the U.S. and consumers are continuously asking us for the same type of product for their laundry detergent,” Stovickova added. Pods aren’t the first pre-measured laundry packs to make it to market. Back in 2005, Cot’n Wash Inc. rolled out Dropps liquid detergent packaged in pre-measured, dissolvable pacs. Still, Tide Pods is the first to have the marketing might of Procter & Gamble behind it. In fact, industry sources say P&G will support the launch with a $150 million budget. But whether it’s Tide Pods or Purex Complete Crystals, these new introductions are evidence that the U.S. laundry care market is set to grow again. • June 2011

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A GREEN LIGHT for Naturals Sustainable, naturally sourced ingredients are here to stay, according to suppliers. Melissa Meisel • Associate Editor

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care industry is domi- in an effort to avoid petrochemically derived nated by consumer demand for green ingredients, noted Mintel in its reports. In beauty, according to analysts and 2010, 13% of new skin care, hair care and suppliers alike. In fact, Down to Earth is cosmetics made the paraben-free claim (up being touted by Mintel Beauty Innovation 5% from 2008). Also in 2010, almost 9% of as the key trend set to shape the personal new skin care, hair care and cosmetics made care category in 2011. Meanwhile, as seen with the latest releases from industry suppliers, there’s no shortage of innovations to choose from when formulating the latest color cosmetics, skin care or hair care products. Closely linked with sustainability, the Down to Earth trend addresses practicalities of making and marketing green beauty. Factors include managing price pressure due to varying supply and demand of natural and organic raw materials and learning to master the challenges of green chemistry—such as the use of sustainable surfactants, green solvents and alternatives to Botanical extracts are still parabens. all the rage in personal “Free-from” formucare products today. las—a key trend in 2010—continue to evolve HE PERSONAL

June 2011

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the organic claim (twice as many as in 2007). In contrast, the all-natural claim was found in fewer than 3% of launches in 2010, according to Mintel. “Paraben-free claims actually outpaced organic and all-natural claims in new skin care, hair care and cosmetics launches in 2010, backing up Mintel’s Nu Natural trend that predicted that brands would emphasize results and free-from claims over certification,” said Nica Lewis, head consultant at Mintel Beauty Innovation. “This year, beauty companies will place increased importance on the environment, focusing on sustainable sourcing with attention to maintaining biodiversity. A renewed emphasis on repackaging to minimize waste will also be a factor.” For the third straight year, the percentage of U.S. consumers purchasing organic products has happi • 65

• Naturals

held steady in the 38-39% range, according to TABS Group, Inc., a Shelton, CT-based marketing research and consulting company. While food represents the bulk of the organic purchases, skin care and hair care were the only two categories that registered consecutive years of gains. Skin care came in at 7%, hair care at 5% and cosmetics at 3%, according to the company.

Designation and Destination So, how is an ingredient defined as natural? According to industry suppliers, it’s all about origins. “Today, natural chemistry is based more on sustainability and efficacy than it is on just certification. As a result, natural ingredients are increasingly defined by how environmentally sound the practices surrounding their sourcing was, and are supported by proven efficacy and safety profiles,” said Julia Hernandez, marketing

manager, The DeWolf Companies (DeWolf Chemical, Inc.-Glenn Corporation), Warwick, RI. “This, in combination with green certifications, which endorse finished products and help to bolster brands, helps to provide natural products with a competitive advantage in the eyes of the consumers.” Juan R. Mateu, director of new innovations, Jeen International, agrees. “Natural must be an ingredient that is harvested. Harvested from land or sea, plant or mineral,” he told HAPPI. “The ingredients can go through a few processes that may clean them up or increase purity. The method used to clean the ingredient should use natural ingredients such as water. Physical process can also render a natural ingredient. Filtration or distillation can be used. There should be no chemical altering of the ingredient.” According to Mike Martinez, chief exec-

A Pandora’s Box in the Beauty Industry? • Soaring oil prices and developments in green chemistry are encour-

aging chemical companies to switch to plant-based materials. Many companies have started to promote these “green” ingredients on their environmental credentials, however Organic Monitor believes this development could open up a Pandora’s Box in the beauty industry. Chemical companies often cite environmental benefits as a reason for the switch to plant-based raw materials. Apart from a renewable source, these cosmetic ingredients often have a lower environmental footprint than petroleum-based counterparts. However, the diverting of agricultural land from food crops to make cosmetic ingredients raises many ethical and ecological questions. There has been much debate about using agricultural land for bio-fuel crops while many developing countries suffer food shortages. An increase in plantations of plant crops for cosmetic ingredients could spark a new debate about food vs. beauty crops, according to Organic Monitor. Food security is becoming a major global concern because of rising food prices and scarcity of agricultural land. The global population is expected to rise 50% to over 9 billion by 2050, however agricultural land is projected to decrease over this period. If agricultural land needs to be diverted from food production, at the very least the beauty industry must ensure that the ingredients are sustainably sourced. Organic Monitor sees some early indicators that the beauty industry is moving in this direction. L’Oréal and Unilever have already made commitments to sustainable sourcing. Unilever, which has received much criticism for its raw material sourcing in recent years, has made ingredient sourcing a key part of its Sustainable Living Plan. In the U.S., Walmart is putting pressure on its suppliers to adopt sustainability prac-

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utive officer of Natural Plant Products, Inc., Salem, OR, it’s not that simple. “There is great debate. It seems natural is often defined by what it is not, namely synthetic or petroleum derived. The various private certifications available universally prefer botanically derived ingredients, and some allow for a measure of synthetic chemistry in the manufacture of botanically derived emulsifiers, esters or other functional ingredients. The strictest interpretations dictate botanically derived ingredients be processed using only water, physical processes, and, perhaps, ethanol,” he explained. Although there has been no official agreement among the different associations within the personal care industry, Provital defines a natural ingredient as a raw material from natural sources that has not been transformed by any chemical process, according to Anna Balaguer, mar-

tices via its Sustainability Index program. Apart from the supply chain, the media and NGOs are putting pressure on companies to become more sustainable. Such developments could make sustainable sourcing mandatory in the beauty industry, rather than a preferred option at present. More ingredients, especially commodities, could go the way of palm oil; leading beauty firms have pledged to only source from Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO)-approved companies. Similar sustainable roundtables exist for soya and cocoa, and others are in the pipeline. A number of other sustainability schemes, labels and standards are emerging. Biodiversity, another element of sustainable sourcing, has become fashionable since the United Nations declared 2010 as the year of biodiversity. A number of ingredient and cosmetic companies are signing biodiversity charters. The growing importance of climate change is making companies more aware of their carbon footprints. Some beauty companies propose giving their carbon footprint data on product packaging; this move is likely to push ingredient companies to start measuring and reducing their carbon emissions, especially in plant-based materials. In summary, plant materials are gaining popularity in the beauty industry because of burgeoning demand for natural and organic products as well as their growing use as feedstock. Agricultural land scarcity and concerns about food security are raising many ethical and environmental questions about these beauty crops. Cosmetic ingredient companies that adopt sustainable sourcing practices are likely to find success, while those that do not may struggle with the demons coming out of the Pandora’s Box.

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• Naturals

keting manager, Provital Group, Barcelona, Spain. The company also tries, whenever feasible, to use solvents and preservative systems that are as natural as possible. “The best natural ingredient can only be manufactured from the finest raw material,” explained Antoine Dauby, group marketing director, Naturex Inc. His company’s purchasing team travels globally in order to discover new botanicals and to maintain a close relationship with suppliers. According to Dauby, Naturex systematic analysis of crops and batches provide

useful guidelines regarding specific cultivation methods. “Growing wild or cultivated, we only purchase botanicals sustainably harvested. Because we work directly with growers and harvesters, we get the right plants,” he said. Ultimately, natural ingredients are present in natural products or are produced in a natural way and are extracted from natural sources—plant, animal or microbial, according to Dr. Michel Fink, technical service manager, Jungbunzlauer, Basel, Switzerland. “The ingredient should not be chemically modified during the production process. However, chemicals can be used for physical processing of the ingredients such as alcohol extraction,” he said. For example, Jungbunzlauer xanthan gum is natural because it is produced by the natural process of fermentation and recovered by extraction with an alcohol. The company uses glucose syrup from nonGMO maize and sugar from sugar cane or sugar beet as raw materials for the fermentation with the non-GMO bacterium Xanthomonas campestris, noted Fink.

Green Seal Launches Standard for Personal Care & Cosmetics • Green Seal, Inc., a non-profit organization can freely download and use to improve their founded in 1989 to safeguard health and the environment, and recognized as the original “green seal of approval,” is introducing a standard for certification of personal care and cosmetic products, GS-50. The new standard is the first in the personal care and cosmetics category in the U.S. to cover the whole product lifecycle. It establishes environmental, health and performance requirements for products intended to be left on the body and hair including, but are not limited to, lotions, hair spray and styling products, sunscreen, nail polish, insect repellent, makeup, antiperspirant and deodorant. This standard, along with the Green Seal standard for Soaps and Shower Products (GS-44), provides tools that manufacturers

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products, and to validate those improvements through certification. And the standards provide a guide for consumers to know that their favorite products are safer, greener and perform as well as they should. Certification allows manufacturers to feature the Green Seal, an eco-label that assures a product is safer for health and the environment, awarded by an independent third party. The upcoming release of the new FTC Green Guides for Environmental Marketing Claims will likely result in more scrutiny of claims made on products and how the claims are substantiated. As information about the basis of the claims becomes more transparent, independent verification will be key. More info: www.greenseal.org June 2011

• Naturals

Amla extract is big with suppliers like Sabinsa.

Demand in the Marketplace From shea butter-based lip balms to biodegradable body washes, more and more consumers are seeking out natural alternatives in personal care. Some shop green for environmental reasons (to be ecofriendly); others as part of the beauty inside out trend (good for you)—but whatever the reason, the HBA aisles are stacked with a variety of green SKUs. “Consumers aren’t singular in their reasons for seeking out products containing natural ingredients. Some research indicates specific consumers believe these products will be safer and offer a higher degree of efficacy,” said Martinez of Natural Plant Products. “Personally, I think some consumers really identify with products containing naturals. It might be a personal belief in environmental stewardship, or a desire to support ingredients with enhanced sourcing attributes such as fair trade or sustainability. The loyalty to brands such as Aveda and The Body Shop, which have long taken a deep view of naturals, seems to indicate this sentiment.” Hernandez of The DeWolf Companies agreed. “For the most part, today’s consumers From spas to mass market retailers, many are tapping into the green trend for 2011.

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see natural and organic products as being better for the environment. In this sense, there is a greater connection now between the industry and consumers’ perception,” she told HAPPI. However, despite the fact that consumers care about the environment, it is still questionable whether they are willing to pay a premium for natural products, she noted. “Consumers seem to expect manufacturers to develop natural products as an imperative social and environmental responsibility practice, and also make them available at the same purchase points as conventional products,” said Hernandez. Balaguer of Provital Group sees shoppers selecting natural SKUs for beauty benefits. “Consumers are switching to natural more and more, as they perceive natural cosmetics as more compatible with their skin,” she told HAPPI.“A very high percentage of consumers believe that they have sensitive skin, therefore they feel that natural ingredients are most suitable for daily care…the consumer has also realized that a natural ingredient can be as effective as a synthetic one.”

Critical Components Suppliers agree there is no dearth of novel ingredients on the market for today’s formulators—some new, some staples in company portfolios. Organic fats and oils, essential oils and botanical extracts are widely used natural ingredients—particularly notable in beauty innovation are cupuaçu butter and açai oil, according to Hernandez of The DeWolf Companies. DeWolf Chemical and Glenn Corporation offer high quality grades of these ingredients, which impart clinically tested, longlasting moisturizing properties, making them ideal for skin elasticity restoring and after-sun products, she said. Equally appealing to the natural formulators is Botany Lychee Extract, according to Hernandez. This new, patented material provides natural oligomeric proanthocyanidins A2 with strong antioxidant activity and significant inhibition of collagenase. For other innovative formulations, Daniel happi.com

Natural formulations require unique ingredients.

Winn, director, personal care ingredients, Inolex, Philadelphia PA, suggests natural cationic materials from his company. “Our Emulsense line contains the world’s first and only natural cationic agent. It allows the creation of natural hair conditioners that are truly compliant,” he told HAPPI. “What is really amazing about Emulsense is how ecologically friendly it is—its environmental profile is entirely benign. Companies that switch from petrochemical quats to Emulsense can claim a major positive impact on the environment.” Emulsense has also proven to be a big winner for skin care, added Winn, as “the industry is already very fond of the light and dry feel created by cationic emulsions. Now that they have it in a natural form, the natural skin care lines are going to become much less greasy and much more appealing to the mainstream consumer.” Mateu of Jeen International noted that extracted compounds will continue to be a main growth area for naturals. “There is no doubt if you consider all of the different species of plants available,” he explained.“Many plants seem to have their own beneficial profile. Some of these ingredients can be isolated to a specific active. There can also be an available synergy present in these plants that work best in its natural state.” Jeen has developed cold process waxes that contain natural waxes and polyelectrolytes. The newest on its line of cold water dispersible waxes are made from sunflower wax combined with carrageenan, sodium alginate or guar. Naturex launched a new Dragon’s blood extract, which is an innovative revitalizing active, according to the company. Dragon’s June 2011

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• Naturals

blood (Croton lechleri), called both Sangre de Drago and Sangre de Grado, is the primary topical aid for skin care in the Amazon, according to Dauby. It helps to protect the skin, due to its high content of proanthocyanidins, providing a powerful antioxidant activity. Dragon’s blood extract, standardized to taspine, stimulates the early phase of wound healing, by stimulating the fibroblasts. Dragon’s blood sap helps to protect the cells of the skin and regenerate the whole tissue—therefore, it’s ideal for skin care products. In fact, skin sensitivity is a specific growing concern for consumers, noted Victor Low, marketing executive, botanicals, Croda, Edison, NJ. “Even though everyone’s skin possesses different characteristics, all of us are susceptible to changes within ourselves and our surroundings. The results range from minor skin blemishes to major skin ailments,”he explained. Phytessence Blue Daisy, Crodarom’s latest extract for sensitive skin, has been shown to help reduce skin inflammation by inhibiting two molecules responsible for skin inflammation. The results are less irritated, more natural looking skin, said Low. Natural Plant Products markets vegetable oils and fats. There has been growing interest in its meadowfoam seed oil as well as favorable initial interest in daikon radish oil, according to Martinez. A broad view of the segment shows increasing use of emollients such as shea butter, jojoba and traditional oils such as sunflower and sweet almond, too. Another growing trend, according to suppliers, is ingredients from plants that live in extreme environments, according to Balaguer of Provital Group. Their ability to survive makes them synthesize specific substances and use specific mechanisms that can be very useful in cosmetic applications. This is the case with Provital’s Xeradin, a moisturizer extracted from a plant, which lives in very dry environments, as well as Provital’s Rhodiola Complex, a strengthening and anti-frizz active for hair care.

Moving Ahead The future of green ingredients is not in the products themselves but the actions of the suppliers, say industry insiders. From sustainable sourcing to disclosing components, companies are striving to satiate the needs of the eco-friendly consumer. “Just recently our distributor and I discussed the increasing in74 • happi

happi.com

June 2011

Naturals

formation requirements of our customers,” Martinez of Natural Plant Products told HAPPI.“We are increasingly being called on to provide detailed information on our supply, manufacturing techniques and safety data. Customers are now taking a very deep look at the natural and botanical ingredients they are sourcing, whereas five years ago, it seemed we received only occasional inquiries. “I believe the demands for transparency and disclosure will increase in the future as manufacturers work to increase supply chains security and obtain data that can justify green claims,”Martinez continued. “I think it is also possible that we’ll see the core principles of sustainability enter the dialogue about green ingredients. Green ingredients may no longer be judged solely on their origin, but rather on a combination of environmental performance, social justice, such as fair trade, and economics.” Fink of Jungbunzlauer agreed. “The trustworthiness of the manufacturer will be increasingly questioned. The manufacturers must provide evidence that the specified quality and safety of the products is guaranteed,” he said. “Accordingly, then the importance of sustainability standards will increase. Congruently, certain ingredients that do not measure up will be removed from formulations and/or partially replaced by other, more natural and sustainable ingredients. Moreover, fair trade approaches will be increasingly demanded.” Green ingredients can be “green” but they don’t need to be “natural”—noted Mateu of Jeen. “A green ingredient should minimize harm to the user directly or indirectly. Can we produce our products while minimizing the environmental impacts?”he asked.“Future trends will be focused on cleaning up the way we produce chemical ingredient— a minimization of all possible avenues of harm. Less harm to the consumer whether they buy our product or not. How we make it, to where it goes when it’s disposed, will continue to grow.” The anti-aging sector remains a goldmine of opportunity, noted Hernandez of DeWolf. June 2011

“There is an emerging trend toward combining natural and organic ingredients with actives as the basis for scientific and marketing claims,” she told HAPPI. “This is specifically seen in products with anti-aging, protection and brightening benefits.” All in all—whether simply natural, des-

happi.com

•

ignated organic or in-between levels of eco-friendly, industry advancements will pave the way for the future of green ingredients, according to Winn of Inolex. “Technology. Better things always come from technology, whether derived from nature or from petrochemicals,” he said. •

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GIVE IT TO ME STRAIGHT The salon hair care industry took a hit during the recession as consumers put the breaks on discretionary spending. But is this market—where hairstyle and product trends are born— ready to bounce back? Christine Esposito • Associate Editor

I

to the hair salon an indulgence or imperative? That question has been on consumers’ minds since the economy went south in 2009. Sure, great looking hair is always in vogue, but one of those hot straightening treatments can look more discretionary than necessary when the car payment is due or one’s heard “water cooler” rumors about more layoffs. Industry observers agree that the recession changed purchasing patterns for hair services. While consumers continued to go to the salon for trims and haircuts, they have been stretching out time between appointments and seem less likely to book color treatments and the like, maybe opting for an at-home kit sold in the drugstore instead. Haircutting services make up the bulk of the revenues pulled in by the salon industry. IBIS World estimates that the segment will account for nearly 47% of the $37.5 billion hair and nail salon industry revenue in 2011, up from 42.4% in 2006. Meanwhile, hair coloring and tinting services account for 20.4% of sales, down slightly from 20.9% in 2006, while “other” services, which includes permanent texture modifications like curls or straightening, are expected to fall from 14.1% of industry revenues in 2006 to an estimated 13.3% in 2011. Nary a salon owner or stylist would S A VISIT

June 2011

drop her shears if she heard those numbers. She’s lived it. This already quite competitive and mature marketplace took a hit over the past several years. “The salon industry did not do too well during the recession unless you were a salon that actually was already running a successful salon,” said Stephen Marinaro, a professional stylist for more than 19 years who is the face behind thesalonguy.com, an informational website targeting the salon industry, dishing advice on styling techniques, salon technology and products, mixed with red carpet news and interviews with salon professionals. “Just like the stock market in a way, if you hung in there you could have lost it all or made it back by now, however it is not that easy. Many salons close down on a regular basis; now they are closing even more and it is happi.com

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• Professional Hair Care

focus is to drive increases in consumer traffic in our salons.” from Number 4. As Regis executives point out, the recession put the brakes on the number of visits consumers were willing making to the salon. Still, there are always those willing to reach into their pockets to be coiffed by a professional, say industry experts. “Customers have cut back where they can and will save money in times like these, however I find that the clients that want to look their best and feel their best will not stop spending,” Marinaro said. Another industry veteran, Shauky Gulamani of InGlam Inc., echoed that sentiment. “We are truly blessed that we are in a recession proof business. People may go to the salon less but they still have to go as they need their hair cut or colored,”he said. But their willingness to spend on treatments doesn’t always translate to product sales at the salon. According to Gulamani, a slacking salon retail business stems from diversion. “Salons can’t compete with professional brands that are sold in the mass retail at a the result of a lack of a business model, lower or equal price to what the salon professionals can buy it for,” he told Happi.” If plan, direction, culture and service.” Even Regis Corp., the world’s largest manufacturers would only support the hair salon company, saw sales decline in its salon professionals that made their commost recently reported quarter. The Min- pany what they are today and not be greedy neapolis, MN-based firm, which counts then the salon business would not suffer.” And he’s doing something about it by nearly 12,700 salon doors including SuperCuts, Sassoon Salon and Hair Club for launching his new company, InGlam Inc. Men, reported that revenues in the third According to Gulamani, InGlam will serve quarter ended March 31, 2011 fell 1.1% to as a “professional-only, diversion-free hair $581 million, with third quarter total same- care manufacturer devoted to hairstylists, store sales declining 2.3%. Those numbers salons and their clients, ensuring the highfollowed revenue declines of less than one est quality parts, ingredients and the most percent and 1.3% in same-store sales dur- advanced science.” But is now the best time to enter a maring Q2. “We were disappointed with our under- ket? After all, times have been tough, and lying operational results in the third quar- the space is dominated by the likes of ter which fell short of plan and were down L’Oréal and P&G, which own many of the from the same period last year, largely due leading salon brands. “There are a lot of manufacturers in the to a continuation of the same-store customer visitation trends we’ve seen in past salon/pro market, and yes it may be intense quarters,” commented Randy L. Pearce, but from meeting and working with dispresident of Regis, upon release of the third tributors the one thing I hear over and over quarter report released in late April. “Our is that manufacturers starting out don’t reFluoro5 Elixer is new

78 • happi

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ally understand the professional salon market and they are expecting the distributors to do their job,”he said.“My experience and knowledge of over 28 years in this industry is my advantage with InGlam. We know how to support the professional salon distributors, salons and stylist with truly innovative products, education, marketing and public relations.” Gulamani is currently establishing a distributor network, and plans to have full coverage of the U.S. and Canada by end of July. The company’s offerings will include wet products under brand names such as Modern Textures as well as styling tools and accessories. “Modern Textures by Shauky is the first line I am putting my name on because I truly believe that the products we are launching are truly unique and superior,”he said. One of the first products to bow will be HairScrub, which Gulamani calls the first scalp exfoliator with a hair purifier on the market. “We use facial scrubs and body scrubs all the time,” he said, “but no one has thought about the scalp. It is skin below the hair that also needs to be exfoliated allowing the follicle to remain clean and be able to produce healthy hair.” For Gulamani, R&D will play a big role in his new venture’s success.“We believe in developing new innovative products to help salon professionals do better at their craft. Science will be a key factor for us where we can show the stylist the truth behind our products.” Toni Wells, a brand director at Number 4, also pointed to the role smart R&D and great ingredients play in the success of a salon line. “Brands focused on producing superior quality products with new technology are growing, however sales of established brands with no new innovations are more or less flat. At Number 4 High Performance Hair Care, we’ve doubled our business in the past year.” Among the newest products from Number 4 is Fluoro5 Elixer Restore & Repair Oil, a lightweight hair care treatment with fluorosilicone. According to Number June 2011

• Professional Hair Care

4 chemist Rolf Mast, “the best, lightweight treatment should operate inside the hair, not just leave a heavy oily film on the hair surface. Silicones are more lightweight than natural oils, but provide even better shine. They are essential for the best performance,” he said. Mast noted that too much oil in the product attracts natural hair oil (sebum), increasing weight and dullness over time. “Fluorosilicones fight time by working against the effects of natural hair oils to maintain the shiny, light look,” he said.

Fahrenheit 450° One Pass is ThermaFuse’s new hot iron treatment.

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Color Commentary Coloring, highlighting and tinting is also big business for salons, representing the second largest block of revenues after haircuts. For customers who do get these often pricey services, products that promise to protect that investment can lead to increased retail sales for salons. Recently, Sebastian Professional rolled out Color Ignite, billed as a unique line of professional color care products with two custom-tailored formulas designed for the color techniques employed by the salon. According to Sebastian, since water alone is re-

A Straight Shot Aside from the recession, the salon market has been abuzz about “Brazilian blowouts” and other treatments designed to straighten hair. At the center of the controversy was safety, stemming from the amount of formaldehyde used in some formulations as well as products being mislabeled as formaldehyde free, which in turn were not. From the fallout have come new treatments and products that promise to help straighten locks with less risk. For example, Pravana Naturceuticals has created Perfection SmoothOut, a patent-pending formula that safely transforms frizzy, coarse, or curly hair into soft, smooth locks, fulfilling a client’s desires while keeping her and her hair healthy, according to the company. Perfection employs a nano-amino acid complex, which also features a heat protective polymer and reducing catalyst. It is activated with heat to allow the solution to penetrate the hair fiber and to suspend the hair’s “textural memory.” The advanced formula lets users set their flat iron to just 360° and after receiving the Perfection SmoothOut, clients can maintain their locks for 8-12 weeks with the aid of the specially formulated system which Pravana created to ensure the longevity of the SmoothOut. Pravana’s Perfection Smoothing Shampoo and Conditioner are sulfate-, salt- and paraben-free. Plus, Perfection’s gentle formula allows for cleansing and color services to be performed immediately after the SmoothOut.

nates frizz and leaves the hair smoother and shinier for approximately four to six weeks.

For flat iron fanatics, there’s new Fahrenheit (f450°) 450° One Pass by ThermaFuse, a hot iron-activated smoothing crème that creates a smooth, sleek surface in just one pass of the flat iron. The formulation infuses hair with rich moisture and proteins, combating the brittleness caused by extreme heat. According to Thermafuse, the product has been tested and proven to leave hair in better condition than it was before styling, controlling cuticle abrasion 80% more effectively than competing products. Powering f450° One Pass is Cuticle Fusion Complex, a combination of certified organic olive oil, blue agave nectar, cactus flower and blue lotus flower extracts chosen for their ability to grow and thrive in hot climates. They are said to work together to smooth and seal the hair’s cuticle, simultaneously locking in healthy moisture while repelling environmental dampness that could cause locks to revert and become unruly. Philip Pelusi has rolled out his own formaldehye free blow out treatment. P2 Formaldehyde Free Blow Out Keratin Treatment with Ceramide Complex is safe for stylists and their customers and does not require gloves, masks or special ventilation, according to the company. A semi-permanent treatment, it elimihappi.com

Flat irons are big these days, and so are treatments designed to protect hair from their high temperatures.

June 2011

• Professional Hair Care

Great looking hair is always in style.

sponsible for 80% of color loss, there’s a great need to care for color-treated hair with a shampoo and conditioner that contain the appropriate ingredients that work in concert to allow conditioning properties to adhere to hair. To address this, Sebastian Professional formulated the Color Ignite regimen with “Smart Color Complex,” which contains smart polymers in the shampoo that allows conditioning agents to adhere to the colortreated hair. In the Single Tone Shampoo and Conditioner (for single tone colored hair), the complex helps seal the cuticle and smoothes the hair surface. In the Multi Tone Shampoo and Conditioner (designed for multi-tonal and lightened hair), the complex targets damage or gaps on the hair strands and helps restructure them to unleash color vibrancy on both the colored and highlighted strands, according to the company. Plus, Color Ignite has a unique form— it’s whipped, which helps achieve even application across all hair fibers. There are thousands of micro bubbles that create a super thin veil of color protection polymers that reach and wrap each hair fiber, according to Sebastian. 82 • happi

At Pureology, new Perfect4Platinum is said to deliver longer lasting color vibrancy to hair that has been high-lifted or highlighted four levels or more. The formula includes keravis, billed by the brand as an anti-breakage hair fortifier. The range includes shampoo, conditioner, a repair product and Perfect4Platinum MiracleFiller, which contains 15 times the keravis that will repair up to 78% of strength caused by lightening. Salon brand Aloxxi has also reported advancements in the color care category in new ColourPrime Pre-Color Treatment and ColourLock Post-Color Finisher. They are designed to reveal more vibrant, longer lasting color by prepping hair before and protecting it after the process. ColourPrime Pre-Color Treatment is an all-in-one gentle herbal cleanser, scalp desensitizer, porosity equalizer and color extender that preps the hair to receive color, providing a more even surface and longerlasting results. The ColourLock Post-Color Finisher is a botanically enriched formula that finishes the color process by cleansing, conditioning, reducing the hair’s pH, neutralizing residual peroxide and closing the cuticle, all in one step. According to Kim Donovan, marketing director of Aloxxi, having a shampoo, conditioner and chemical antioxidant treatment in one not only reveals hair that looks and feels silky, shiny and beautiful“but gets clients in and out of the salon with time to spare.”

Less Time Is More Money Getting customers serviced efficiently is key to every salon’s business, and to this end, McBride Research Laboratory’s pHusion brand has recently introduced the new pHusion Cool Cap. This dual processing disposable cap is said to concentrate the heat between the cap and hair dryer to reduce drying time by 50% as it enhances the customer’s experience. According to Tracey A. Gibson, director of marketing for MRL, the Cool Cap ensures stylists achieve styling goals in reduced time, gives clients a more comfortable drying experience and reduces happi.com

drying time by 50%, which helps the salon conserve energy and increase client efficiency. Those are all good things for salon owners. And there might just be some more. According to IBIS World, demand for hair and nail salon services is showing signs of new life. Between 2010 and 2011, revenue was expected to increase 2.8% to $37.5 billion, according to the research firm. In addition, statistics from a SymphonyIRI’s MarketPulse survey point to consumers holding the purse strings just a bit less tightly in their day-to-day lives—which might just mean more booked hair appointments. According to the survey, 49% say they are visiting hair salons less often, down from 55% percent last year. A market that’s bouncing back is beneficial to professional product companies too. Having weathered the storm, some are adjusting their operations in an effort to be more nimble. Recently, American Crew, the men’s professional grooming brand, has strengthened relationship with distributor Beauty Systems Group (BSG), a subsidiary of Sally Beauty Holdings, Inc. Designed to streamline distribution and reinforce its focus on building the men’s business in salons, American Crew has granted BSG exclusive distribution in 22 states and the distributor will also handle distribution for d:fi hair products. According to Marinaro, success in the salon product side of the business boils down to the relationship between the brand and the stylist—and keeping product only in his shop. “Being a leader these days in the product world really is simple. If you stay true to the stylist, do not sell to drug stores and discount stores, provide great education, support and quality, things will work out well,” he said.“There are so many companies that deny selling to outlet stores, yet you find huge amounts of the product on the shelves. If you are going to sell to them, just admit it and don’t mislead people in the industry. Technology, education, rewards and helping the business grow are all important elements.”• June 2011

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A Dynamic Approach Active ingredients can help skin care products deliver what they promise. Melissa Meisel • Associate Editor

D

that more than half of female skin care users are antiaging seekers, stating they have gone shopping or looked for skin care products with anti-aging benefits? And the same percentage (56%) of current antiaging facial skin care users, according to The NPD Group, say they are not sure if these type of products really work, but they use them anyway? One way to improve a personal care product’s efficacy is active ingredients. After all, more than dermatologists, television advertising, online searches or “best of” awards, the number one influence in helping a woman decide which anti-aging products to buy is the recommendation of her friends, family and coworkers, reported NPD. Actives make these products deliver. “The ability of personal care products to deliver active ingredients is what defines good skin care,” said Jeannette Graf MD, assistant clinical professor of dermatology, The Mount Sinai Medical Center, New York, NY.“Proper and effective delivery of active ingredients can directly impact the appearance. In order to be considered active, the ingredient must be present in the proper concentration to deliver an effective result. Today’s consumer is quite educated about skin care and companies are using active ingredients as well as effective delivery systems to create high performance products.” “The benefits of utilizing active ingredients in skin care products is that you have ID YOU KNOW

June 2011

proven biological activity, which gives a greater chance of having a better clinical outcome,” added Neil Sadick, Sadick Dermatology, New York, NY. “These active ingredients are most commonly clinically tested and/or the findings are published in peer-reviewed journals.”

An Inside View Industry suppliers agree that effective actives can be an asset to making skin care products stand out. When asked about the benefits of actives ingredients in skin care products, Sarah Teichmueller, marketing manager, Rovi Cosmetics International GmbH, Germany, told HAPPI,“The counter question is ‘what would skin care be without active ingredients?’ The reason why we use skin care is to target certain skin issues or in other words to achieve a certain goal. The choice of active ingredients in a formulation characterizes the product.” According to Eric Lippay, senior technical marketing manager, North America Skin Care, DSM Personal Care, Parsippany, NJ, “Active ingredients can deliver real benefits that are not usually possible with other cosmetic forms. They give companies making skin care products a significant advantage by being able to add ingredients backed by happi.com

scientific proof of efficacy and targeted to specific benefits. Claim space can be expanded and consumers are the beneficiaries with these expanded skin care benefits including firming, evening tone or reducing the appearance of wrinkles, for example.” Another instance, added Lippay, is that an active that can boost hyaluronan naturally in the skin could provide a much longer and different benefit than topically applied hyaluronic acid. For the eye area, both peptides as well as combinations of actives may be needed to resolve the issues. Peptide products like Syn-Coll or Syn-Tacks from DSM can help to alleviate the appearance of wrinkles, as well as provide a smoothing effect on the crow’s feet area. “In order to really have an effect on the combination of dark circles and puffy eyes, you need a combination of actives such those found in DSM’s Regu-Age,” said Lippay. “This ingredient combines oxido reductases with two other actives to reduce the appearance of dark circles and diminish puffiness.” Dawn Thiel Glaser, technology manager, personal care division, Glenn Corporation, White Bear Lake, MN, agrees that peptides are imperative for effectual skin care. happi • 85

• Active Ingredients

“Peptides have been in vogue for several years now, and are continuing to gain popularity,” she said.“With the advent of DNA microarrays, suppliers can offer specific, targeted functionality with their peptides.” Marine-based extracts and botanical extracts have been popular for some time, too, Thiel Glaser noted. More suppliers, however, are now providing information on the actual active molecule within the extract and its mechanism of action. “Tried and true actives such as ceramides, and hyaluronic acid variants are maintaining their popularity,” she told HAPPI. “In the case of hyaluronic acid (HYA), there has been renewed interest in new, smaller molecules which have a better chance at penetrating the stratum corneum to provide benefits from within.”

An Added Bonus Speaking of benefits from within, during the past decade there has been a growing trend toward natural actives, as consumers desire to minimize use of synthetic chemi-

cal substances, noted Kavita Subramanian, senior manager, international business, Sabinsa Corporation, East Windsor, NJ. “Cosmetics containing natural active compounds are increasingly in demand by consumers,”Subramanian said.“The area of active ingredients application in cosmetics is quite wide and contains several unique compounds.” In general, botanicals provide different vitamins, essential oils, dyes, tannins, proteins, terpenoids, alkaloids, polyphenols and other bioactive molecules. Skin lightening, anti-aging (anti-wrinkle, antioxidants), sun care and moisturizing ingredients are popular products today, noted Subramanian. Due to the aging population of Baby Boomers, the anti-aging market is growing, too. “Most recently, the emerging trend of ‘beauty inside and out’ is becoming increasingly popular, wherein nutricosmetics and topically applied cosmeceuticals work in harmony to promote physical experience and well-being,” added Subramanian.

Actives & The OTC Market Acne is a common and often devastating problem that leads to emotional consequences as well as the potential for scarring, noted Dr. Julie K. Karen of the Laser & Skin Surgery Center of New York and assistant clinical professor of dermatology, NYU School of Medicine, New York, NY. Active ingredients account for the effectiveness of OTC medications. The active ingredient dictates the mechanism of action and thereby translates into real clinical benefit. “A product’s formulation may factor significantly into efficacy, as well as tolerability. If a product is poorly tolerated, a patient is unlikely to stick with it,” she said. Specifically, certain formulations, such as Proactiv’s micro-crystallized benzoyl peroxide present in Proactiv Renewing Cleanser, features very fine benzoyl peroxide particles. The smaller particles penetrate the skin more slowly and more evenly, translating into gentler, but effective treatment, added Karen. “Consumers are more sophisticated, more educated and savvier than ever,” she told HAPPI. “Thus, they are demanding more information/substantiation of claims. Patients now know to look for certain tried and proven active ingredients and are becoming less likely to utilize products that lack those ingredients.” 86 • happi

Sabinsa’s offerings in this category include Saberry, a powdered extract of the fruits of amla extract that helps protect the skin from the damaging effects of free radicals and heavy metal-induced oxidative stress. It is regarded as one of the best rejuvenating herbs, said Subramanian. Saberry can help rebuild the skin collagen matrix and restore, to some degree, a youthful appearance to the skin, Subramanian told HAPPI. With the added advantage of its potential antioxidant activity, Saberry also can help in the management of sunlight-induced photo damage. “Plant extracts are very popular in actives, especially when they can support a sustainable positioning as most of the brands have taken this orientation, either as a front marketing positioning or as part of the core strategy of the company,” confirmed Bethsabée Coutaz, Laboratoires Sérobiologiques division of Cognis France, now part of BASF, global marketing director, Laboratoires Sérobiologiques Paris, France.

Among the most common OTC active ingredients right now in the marketplace are: • Benzoyl peroxide (BP): Arguably the most effective active ingredient in OTC acne products. BP kills the culprit bacterium p. acnes, helps eliminate excess oils from the skin and eliminates pore-clogging dead skin cells. A wide range of concentrations are available. Low concentrations are generally associated with lesser risk of dryness, stinging and burning. • Beta-hydroxy acids (i.e. salicylic acid): slows down the skin shedding process, helps to reduce occlusion of pores. • Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) (i.e. glycolic acid): retexturizes/reduces clogged pores by exfoliating and stimulating growth of collagen (the skin’s structural support) and thus may benefit people with mild scarring. Further improves acne by decreasing inflammation. Evens pigment and tone. • Polyhydroxy acids (next generation alpha-hydroxy acids): similar benefit to AHAs, but larger molecule with more hydroxyl groups and thus penetrates skin more slowly and has tendency to be less irritating. Also, potently hydrating. • Retinol: a derivative of vitamin A. Precursor to retinoic acid (the prescription strength). Normalizes skin maturation process and helps correct abnormal skin shedding/occlusion of pores. With regular use, helps smooth skin and reduce pore size. Combats formation of comadones. Also, has anti-aging benefits.

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June 2011

Distinctive® Phytostem Lilac is a new acid-stable broad spectrum antioxidant derived from lilac cell cultures. It works with Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Salicylic Acid to boost product performance. High ORAC antioxidant activity - doesn’t oxidize in acidic formulations Offers protection against 5 forms of damaging free radicals Mitigates redness, inﬂammation and supports healing Protects against photo-aging Inhibits acne bacteria and yeast growth Regulates sebum via 5-AR activity Inhibits tyrosinase enzyme for skin brightening In vivo clinically tested Recent advances in Plant Cell Culturing Technology have allowed us to efﬁciently produce rare antioxidants which are naturally occurring in plants. This new technique of manufacturing botanical-based ingredients captures the essence of the most active plant chemistry. The process produces ingredients which are beyond certiﬁed organic in purity, are completely eco-friendly and non-GMO. As a result you can now expect more clinical efﬁcacy from your cosmetic formulations. Resources of Nature LLC 801 Montrose Avenue South Plainﬁeld, NJ 07080 (908) 226-5123

• Active Ingredients

Today’s power actives truly run the gamut, according to Raymond Sourial, sales director, Centerchem, Inc., Norwalk, CT. “There was a point when peptides were all the rage. Then, natural ingredients gained the spotlight. Now, customers may shade one way or another, but generally

88 • happi

they ask for ingredients that work,” he told HAPPI.“I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been told that the customer wants natural ingredients. Then, they follow it up with a statement like, ‘but if you have something synthetic or biotech that really works, we can make it fit.’”

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Facing Forward So, what are the future trends in active ingredients for 2012 and beyond? Sources concur that novel components lead the way in terms of better products with better results. “Skin care products will continue to go from the cosmeceutical to the ‘cosmolecular.’ This is a term that describes the trend in skin care toward molecular mechanisms and looking inside the cell as opposed to outside of the skin,” said Graf. Natural ingredient technologies and green environmentally friendly skin care will continue to flourish and the science of their molecular mechanisms will continue to be defined, she added. The rise is the advancement of natural actives is indeed on the rise, agreed Lippay of DSM Personal Care. “More naturals will be developed and refined with stronger supporting in-vitro and in-vivo studies,” he said. Thiel Glaser of Glenn Corporation told HAPPI that there will be more targeted functionality with the use of microarrays in actives. Additionally, the debate on “drug versus cosmetic” will continue, she said. According to Sadick, detoxifying agents, which protect against free radical damage and protein denaturation in cells—as well as stem cell modulators, to stimulate reproduction as well as to keep cells alive for a longer period of time—are key to the progression of active ingredients. Products with improved protection functions during the day, as well as the combination use of active plus at-home technologies for treatment of acne, photoaging, skin tightening and hair removal will also be big in 2012, he said. “Active ingredients have a bright future. The pace of the growth of knowledge and innovation will allow more areas to be explored,” agreed Sourial of Centerchem.“In order to predict where the future for active ingredients lies, one simply needs to look at recent scientific and medical discoveries. In the same way that changes in surgical procedures, nutrition and protection have already altered the active ingredient landscape, I am sure that we are in store for more such developments.” June 2011

New ACTIVE INGREDIENTS 2011 Here is a list of new active ingredients introduced by industry suppliers during the past 12 months. To learn more about any of the products listed here, contact the suppliers directly using the information provided below.

Biovelop AB Distributed by Brenntag Specialties Inc.

South Plainfield, NJ Tel: (800) 732-0562 Email: [email protected], [email protected] Website: www.avenacare.com, www.brenntagspecialties.com Avenacare Oat Beta Glucan INCI: Oat beta glucan Suggested use levels: 1-10% Applications: Skin care, sun care, hair care Comments: This unique hypoallergenic ingredient, naturally derived from locally grown, non-GMO, Swedish oats, is renowned for its anti-aging, rejuvenating and soothing properties. The Avenacare oat beta glucan molecules stimulate the synthesis of collagen, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, increase skin firmness and elasticity, accelerate wound healing, soothe skin irritations, hydrate the skin and protect against the damaging effects of UVA/UVB light. Avenacare oat beta glucan can also be incorporated into hair care products, where it provides nourishment to the hair, improves tensile strength, adds body and helps repair damaged hair.

Corum Inc. Taipei, Taiwan Tel: +886 2 8751 6060 Email: [email protected] [email protected] Website: www.corum.com.tw June 2011

Corum 9515 INCI: Ethyl ascorbic acid Suggested use levels: 2% Applications: Skin care products, whitening serum, whitening lotion and whitening cream Comments: Corum 9515 (ethyl ascorbic acid) is a new generation of stable vitamin C derivative that has a whitening effect and serves to promote collagen synthesis. It exhibits a strong melanogenesis inhibition effect. It also works as L-ascorbic acid to reduce dark spots and achieve anti-oxidation effect. Furthermore, Corum 9515 is able to protect DNA from being damaged.

DeWolf Chemical, Inc. Warwick, RI Tel: (800) 521-0065 Email: [email protected] Website: www.dewolfchem.com Beracare Triple A System INCI: Copaifera officinalis oil (and) carapa guaianensis nut oil (and) euterpe olerracea oil Suggested use levels: 1.5% Applications: Anti-acne Comments: Beracare Triple A system was developed to improve the health of acneprone skin. The effectiveness of this product is obtained because of the synergy between different natural constituents. Botany Grapes INCI: Vitis vinifera (grape) seed extract (and) silica happi.com

Suggested use levels: Up to 0.2% Applications: Skin care anti-aging, hair care Comments: A standardized extract used as an active ingredient for skin and hair care formulations with anti-aging and antipuffiness properties at dosages of 0.1-0.5%. The incorporation is recommended at temperatures below 70°C.

DSM Nutritional Products, LLC North American Distributor—Centerchem, Inc.

Tel: (203) 822-9800 Email: [email protected] Website: www.centerchem.com Regu-Fade INCI: Resveratrol Suggested use levels: Up to 1% Applications: Cosmetic applications include skin-brightening facial and body care products, creams and serums for age spots and anti-aging skin care products for a more even skin tone. Comments: Regu-Fade is a high-performing, fast-acting and preservative-free active that offers multifunctional and excellent skin lightening properties for radiant and youthful-looking skin. Cosmetic applications include skin brightening facial and body care products, creams and serums for age spots and anti-aging skin care products for a more even skin tone.

Glenn Corp. White Bear Lake, MN Tel: (888) 453-6267 happi • 89

• New Active Ingredients

Email: [email protected] Website: www.glenncorp.com Botany Centella INCI: Centella asiatica extract (and) maltodextrin (and) silica Suggested use levels: 1-5% Applications: Skin care Comments: This is a standardized extract used as an active ingredient for skin care formulations with anti-aging, firming and calming properties at dosages of 1-5%. The incorporation is recommended at temperatures below 70°C. Sensolene Care DD INCI: Dodecyl olivate Suggested use levels: 1-5% Applications: Sun care, skin care, AP/deodorants, color cosmetics Comments: Melting point mimics that of skin lipids immediate (1 hour) and longterm moisturization (up to 8 hours) immediate (1 hour) and long-term elasticity (up to 8 hours) very good spread, no tack, EcoCert Abil EM-180 INCI: Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone Suggested use levels: 0.5-2.5% Applications: Skin care Comments: High formulation flexibility without facing any stability issues, robust systems that can easily be produced, compatible with all types of oils and active ingredients. Able to handle high load of UV filters (e.g. U.S. sun protection formulas with high SPF)

Gova BVBA Belgium, Antwerp Tel: 0032/36-36-32-31 Email: [email protected] Website: www.gova-benelux.be Biodine V INCI: Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, phospholipids, glycine soja sterol, stearic acid, glycerin, safflower oil/palm oil aminopropanediol esters, squalane Suggested use levels: 0.3-0.5%, rinse off 0.5-4.0% leave on Applications: Skin and body care, bodywash Comments: Sensitive, dry or damaged skin suffers from a partially destroyed hydroli90 • happi

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pidic film. Biodine V repairs this damage instantly thanks to its similar composition and liquid crystal structure.

Lipo Chemicals, Inc. Paterson, NJ Tel: (973) 345-8600 Email: [email protected] Website: www.lipochemicals.com Liposhield HEV Melanin INCI: Melanin Suggested use levels: 0.2-1.0% Applications: Daily wear moisturizing creams and lotions; anti-aging treatment products; sunscreen products; foundation makeup; hand creams Comments: Liposhield HEV Melanin is the first cosmetic ingredient designed to protect the skin from damaging high-energy visible light Bioferrin 5000 INCI: Apo-lactoferrin Suggested use levels: 0.5-1.0% Applications: Face creams, hand and body lotions, lip treatment products, soothing after-sun products, baby products Comments: Bioferrin 5000 is patent pending for elevating hyaluronic acid levels in human tissue to promote significant skin hydration following topical application. Rejuverrin INCI: Whey protein Suggested use levels: 0.5-1.0% Applications: Anti-aging face and eye creams; hand and body lotions; lip repair creams; foundation makeup; soothing post-treatment lotions; rich prestige and spa lines. Comments: A natural multifunctional antiaging solution with anti-aging benefits for skin regeneration, restructuring and repair. Lumerrin INCI: Hydrolyzed whey protein Suggested use levels: 2-5% Applications: Facial creams and serums; hand and body lotions; foundations; soothing after-sun creams and lotions. Comments: Research shows Lumerrin significantly reduced the accumulation of melanin and thus may be useful in cosmetic applications for skin brightening, minimizJune 2011

New Active Ingredients

ing age spots and evening skin tone.

Lipotec North American Distributor—Centerchem, Inc.

Norwalk, CT Tel: (203) 822-9800 Email: [email protected] Website: www.centerchem.com Silusyne INCI: Water (aqua), soybean (glycine soja) oil, propanediol, sorbitan sesquioleate, isohexadecane, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sclerotium gum, sodium hyaluronate, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl, hydrolyzed soy protein, acetyl hexapeptide-39 Suggested use levels: 2% Applications: Silusyne is a perfect ingredient for anti-cellulite and slimming treatments and as a complement in any type of body care formulation. Comments: Silusyne is a paraben-free active ingredient that reduces adipocyte differentiation. Silusyne helps to improve the appearance of visible cellulite as dermo-hypodermal junction irregularities are smoothed.

Mibelle Biochemistry Buchs, Switzerland Tel: +41 62 836 17 31 Email: [email protected] Website: www.mibellebiochemistry.com PhytoCellTec Argan INCI: Argania spinosa sprout cell extract Suggested use levels: 0.4-1% Applications: Stem cell cosmetics, antiaging Comments: First active ingredient designed to delay the depletion of the dermal stem cells SunActin INCI: Helianthus annuus (sunflower) sprout extract Suggested use levels: 2-5% Applications: Sun care with an SPF protection, sun care, anti-aging Comments: It protects the skin against oxidative stress and complements the protective effect of sunscreens. LIPerfection INCI: Brassica alba sprout extract Suggested use levels: 2-5% June 2011

Applications: Lipstick, lip care formulas, lip contour treatment Comments: The active increases the volume and the hydration of the lips. Absolute volume—luscious feel.

Provital North American Distributor—Centerchem, Inc.

Norwalk, CT Tel: (203) 822-9800 Email: [email protected] Website: www.centerchem.com Cinnamon Ecoft INCI: Propanediol, water, cinnamomum zeylanicum bark extract Suggested use levels: 0.5-5.0% Applications: Cinnamon Ecoft extract is recommended in the formulation of cosmetic products intended to preserve the integrity of skin and hair against oxidative processes as well as products with stimulating activity on blood microcirculation. Comments: Cinnamon Ecoft extract is produced from the bark of C.zeylanicum, rich in polyphenols and sugars, coming from organic crops and fair trade practices. It exhibits the following cosmetic properties: dermo-stimulant activity, antioxidant activity, antiglycation activity, antimicrobial activity and astringent activity.

Rahn AG Zurich, Switzerland Tel: +41 44 315 42 00 Email: [email protected] Website: www.rahn-group.com North America: contact Kinetik Technologies, Inc. Hazlet, NJ Tel: (732) 335-5775 Fax: (732) 335-0210 Reforcyl INCI: Glycerin, water, glutamine, decyl glucoside, phenethyl alcohol, cistus incanus flower/leaf/stem extract, gynostemma pentaphyllum leaf/stem extract Suggested use levels: 1-5% Applications: Anti-age products for mature skin. Suitable for O/W and W/O emulsions, gels and serums Comments: Activation of LXR in human primary keratinocytes (in-vitro study). Actihappi.com

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vation of key enzymes involved in epidermal lipid synthesis (in-vitro study). Improvement of hydration, firmness, elasticity and smoothness of skin (in-vivo study). Visible improvement of wrinkle depth in eye area (in-vivo study). Free of preservatives, Ecocert listed. Slimexir INCI: Water, levan, cynara scolymus (artichoke) fruit extract (suggested name), decyl glucoside, phenethyl alcohol, glucose, caffeine, theobromine, methyl xanthine, paraxanthine Suggested use levels: 2-10% Applications: Body care products to refine the silhouette and re-contour the body. Suitable for O/W and W/O emulsions, gels and lotions. Comments: Prevents formation of new adipocytes (in-vitro study). Reduces lipid accumulation in adipocytes (in-vitro study). Stimulates degradation of existing fat (in-vitro study). Triggers fragmentation of lipid droplets (postulated mechanism) (in-vitro study). Leads to a significant reduction of abdomen volume (in-vivo study). Free of preservatives.

Resources of Nature LLC South Plainfield, NJ Tel: (908) 226-5123 Email: [email protected] Website: www.roninc.com Distinctive Phytostem Edelweiss INCI: Glycerin, leontopodium alpinum meristem cell culture, xanthan gum Suggested use levels: 0.5-5% Applications: Anti-aging wrinkle depth reduction Comments: Recent advances in plant cell culturing technology have allowed us to efficiently produce rare antioxidants which are naturally occurring in plants. This new technique of manufacturing botanical-based ingredients captures the essence of the most active plant chemistry. The process produces ingredients, which are beyond certified organic in purity, are completely eco-friendly and nonGMO. Specifically plant stem cells cultures from Edelweiss deliver powerful adaptogen antioxidants (leontopodic happi • 91

• New Active Ingredients

acids) to clinically reduce depth of wrinkles around the eye area by 15% after 20 days of treatment. Instalift Goji GF INCI: Water, lycium barbarum fruit extract Suggested use levels: 3% Applications: Instant skin firming Comments: Instalift Goji is an isolated active glycopeptide fraction from the goji berry which combines the skin lifting and firming strength of both proteins and polysaccharides. This specific glycopeptide fraction forms a perfect rigid lifting mesh to support sagging and wrinkled skin for creating an immediate visible lifting appearance with a clinical improvement in skin firmness by 26.8% within one hour of application. Instalift Goji further offers critical long-term anti-aging functions via: inhibition of MMP 1 expression, antioxidant efficacy, anti-apop-

totic activity, and collagen stimulation for a complete anti-aging treatment. DC Detoxdefense INCI: Water, phospholipids, butylene glycol, cordyceps sinensis extract, beta vulgaris (beet) root extract Suggested use levels: 1-3% Applications: Anti-aging skin protection Comments: DC Detoxdefense is a “smart ingredient” comprised of multi-layer, phospholipid-based vesicles concentrated with protective and detoxifying extracts. By supporting the skin’s own DNA expression and cell protection, DC Detoxdefense defends against premature aging and helps maintain a healthy, beautiful complexion. Highly skin compliant, DC Detoxdefense is readily absorbed by the skin offering optimal delivery of potent, naturally occurring cell regulating compounds. These main com-

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ponent cordyceps, a mushroom-like fungus rich in adenosine, cordycepic acid, minerals, amino acids and vitamins, has been used throughout Asia for many centuries to help maintain and improve health. DC Detoxdefense is proven efficacious in expressing intracellular superoxide dismutase (SOD) for up-regulating skin’s own protective defenses against superoxide free radicals and other environmental insults including protection against photodamage.

Rovi Cosmetics International GmbH Schlüchtern, Germany Tel: +496661 96760  Email: [email protected]  Website: www.rovicosmetics.de    Herbapurifine INCI: Water/aqua, butylene glycol, lecithin, salix alba bark extract, bakuchiol, magnolia grandiflora leaf extract Suggested use levels: 3% Applications: Adult skin impurities, reduction of efflorescences (comedones, papels, pustules), sebum reduction, inhibition of pro-inflammatory proteins, antibacterial, reducing itchiness Comments: Tested in-vivo and in vitro, Preservative free, Ecocert compliant. UniTone INCI: Water/aqua, alcohol, lecithin, ethyl ascorbic acid, propylene glycol, behentrimonium chloride, aloesin, hexylresorcinol, sodium citrate, disodium EDTA Suggested use levels: 3% Applications: Skin whitening, local skin depigmentation, effective reduction of the skin’s intra- and extracellular melanin content, effective reduction of the tyrosinase activity Comments: Tested in-vivo (5D Intravital Tomography) and in vitro, cell targeted delivery 

Sabinsa Corporation The Answer In Vegetable Oil. 70 East Sunrise Highway, Suite 418, Valley Stream, New York 11581 tel 516.561.6146 fax 516.561.6123 e-mail [email protected] www.alnoroil.com Call or send for our free full-line brochure

92 • happi

happi.com

East Windsor, NJ Tel: (732) 777-1111 Email: [email protected], [email protected] Website: www.sabinsacosmetics.com June 2011

progressive perfumery

www.cplaromas.com

• New Active Ingredients

PteroWhite INCI: Pterocarpus marsupium bark extract Suggested use levels: 0.1-0.5% w/w Applications: Antioxidant, skin lightening Comments: PteroWhite is a proprietary natural pterostilbene ingredient for cosmetic application, extracted from the dried heartwood of Pterocarpus marsupium. SabiLize INCI: Cinnamomum zeylanicum bark oil, eugenia caryophyllus (clove) leaf oil, cymbopogon citratus leaf oil, glyceryl laurate and thymus vulagaris (thyme) leaf oil Suggested use levels: 0.2-1.0% Applications: Anti-microbial and preservative Comments: SabiLize is a proprietary blend of natural anti-microbial actives with a proven preservative efficacy. Artonox INCI: Artocarpus lakoocha wood extract

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Suggested use levels: 0.1-0.5% Applications: Skin lightening Comments: Artonox is obtained from the dried heartwood of artocarpus lakoocha. It is standardized for oxyresveratrol 95%, which is an analog of resveratrol.

Silab Brive, France Tel: 33-555-84-58-40 Email: [email protected] Website: www.silab.fr Instensyl INCI: Hydrolyzed manihot esculenta tuber extract Suggested use levels: 1-7% Applications: Face and body Comments: Created from a new sugar reticulation technology, the 3D molecular network of Instensyl performs by anchoring and spreading itself at the skin surface to form a viscoelastic film, within

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a fast timeframe. Stable and articulated, this glucan biopolymer (Manihot esculenta) immediately provokes lifting and smoothing effects with demonstrated sensorial properties. Instensyl is to be used in all face and body care, in all kind of formulae. Oxygeskin INCI: Tropaeolum majus flower/leaf/stem extract Suggested use levels: 1-3% Applications: Face and body Comments: Rich in arabinogalactans from nasturtium, Oxygeskin restores the capacities of the cells to respond to the hypoxic stress and helps the intracellular diffusion of oxygen. This double mechanism promotes skin oxygenation and conducts to a smoothed skin surface and improved complexion radiance. Oxygeskin brightens dull skin. It is recommended for all complexion skin care.•

June 2011

Thinking About

the Box...

… tube and bottle. The entire packaging process is on marketers’ minds these days—from raw material procurement to what happens after customers squeeze out that last drop of product. Christine Esposito • Associate Editor

P

a simple process— pick a container, decorate it, fill it, ship it. But in 2011, as packaging executives and designers will attest, there’s much more. The spotlight on natural, organic and sustainability—driven by NGOs, consumers and shareholders—has further propelled personal care, beauty and household product packaging into the green zone. Companies must now examine their packaging from procurement to well past the point of purchase. In DuPont’s recently released global survey of consumer packaged goods companies and packaging converters, nearly 40% of respondents identified sustainability issues as the top challenge facing the packaging industry. But it isn’t just über eco-friendly companies making changes; global giants are rolling out more natural products, making greener packaging more accessible to the masses. ACKAGING CAN BE

June 2011

A Sweet Bottle In fact, one may be hard pressed to find a brand with more mass appeal than Pantene—and this P&G powerhouse is now producing shampoo and conditioner bottles made primarily from plant-based plastic. The material, a first for the hair care industry, according to P&G, is made from sugarcane and will be used on the Pantene Pro-V Nature Fusion collection, a range that rolled out in 2009 and is sold in all major markets globally. The new bottles will bow in several Western European markets and retailers over the summer and P&G has expansion plans in place for the rest of the world, including the U.S. market, over the next 18-24 months. Braskem, a Brazilian firm, supplies the plant-based plastic, which is then shipped to France where P&G’s packaging supplier manufactures the actual bottle. Even with the trans-Atlantic trek, the benefits of using the material were apparent to P&G. happi.com

“We’ve conducted a rigorous Life Cycle Assessment that concludes that, even including the shipping from Brazil to Europe, there are significant environmental benefits from using this packaging,” a company spokesperson told HAPPI. According to P&G, sugarcane-derived plastic consumes more than 70% less fossil fuels and releases more than 170% less greenhouse gases per ton than traditional petroleum-based plastic. By using renewable resources such as sugarcane-based plastic, Pantene is supporting P&G’s overarching goal of replacing 25% of petroleum-based materials with sustainably sourced renewable materials by 2020. P&G’s long-term vision is to use 100% renewable or recycled materials on all of its products. P&G has set the bar high, but executives note the firm is in it for the long haul. In a press statement, Hanneke Faber, P&G’s vice president and brand franchise happi • 97

• The Power of Packaging

leader for Global Pantene, said the brand is “thrilled to be the first hair care brand to use this technology on its packaging but we also recognize sustainability is a journey and we’re fully committed to it. Our goal is to punctuate this journey with meaningful innovations that make our communities

more healthy and beautiful and we hope others will follow.”

The Sustainability Sojourn Others agree that sustainability is a sojourn, not a destination. “This isn’t a fad or something that is

Tools of the Trade

S

occupies much of the conversation in packaging, but function is always paramount. No matter how swank or sustainable a bottle or tube may be, if it leaks in a travel bag, leads to contamination or leaves a consumer disappointed, it is destined for the scrap heap. A critical eye on design and functionality can play a major role in enUSTAINABILITY

hancing the user’s experience and maintaining the integrity of a highly sensitive product inside. Estée Lauder’s Idealist Cooling Eye Illuminator, for example, features a “first-to-market” specially contoured applicator that cools, massages and helps re-energize the look of tired, puffy eyes instantly. The cooling effect comes by way of ceramic, which has an amazing ability to absorb heat and stay cool, noted Nadine Pernodet, executive director of skin biology, R&D at Estée Lauder Companies. According to Pernodet, Lauder discovered that tiles composed of an advanced ceramic are a critical component of a space shuttle’s thermal protection system, when the shuttle is re-entering the atmosphere to insulate it from very high temperatures. “It helps the product’s overall effectiveness with gentle massage, therefore helping fatigued, puffy-looking eyes to instantly feel refreshed,” said Pernodet. Plus, there’s another benefit. “It also offers a great alternative to storing your eye creme in the refrigerator,” she added. Another well-designed applicator for an eye treatment comes via P&G’s Olay brand. Rolled out in February, Olay Total Effects Line & Dark Circle Minimizing Brush is a light, non-greasy daily moisturizer that instantly reduces the appearance of darkness under the eye with one sweep of a brush, said the company. Prior to its initial use, users click the brush end several times to begin product flow, then they click once or twice to dispense product and apply the brush to the under eye area and massage to blend. P&G Beauty senior scientist Rolanda Johnson addressed the brush’s role in enhancing the consumer’s experience. “Consumers desire efficacious products that they can see benefits from the product sooner rather than later. Applicators and devices lend to driving efficacy and increased benefits,” she said. According to Johnson, the Olay Professional Pro-X Advanced Cleansing System “was designed to deliver effective cleansing compared to manual cleansing. Packaging that protects the integrity of a formulation was a top priority for La-Roche Posay’s new Toleriane Ultra Intense Soothing Care, a daily moisturizer plus calming agent that is formulated with zero percent preservatives. The pack is constructed from 16 pieces, of which 15 are used just 98 • happi

going to change; retailers are asking for it, shareholders are asking about CSR,” noted Laurie Demeritt, president and chief operating officer of research and consulting company The Hartman Group.“But everything isn’t going to change overnight.” Demeritt suggests CPGs get in lockstep

for the pump alone. This hi-tech package has multiple features which allow the formulator to create a formula designed for those individuals with sensitive skin, according to Peter Foltis, director of L’Oréal USA, Scientific Affairs-Skin Care.

With the Olay Total Effects Line & Dark Circle Minimizing Brush just click to dispense product, apply

“From the inside out, the product the brush to the under eye area is enclosed in a pouch within the and massage to blend. component. The pouch is retractable which allows for minimal waste. The pouch also affords protection from air-oxidation,” he said. For further protection, the valve has three checks to prevent retro-contamination and the tip of the actuator also has a hermetic seal that enables formula to flow out of the pack and closes immediately afterwards. The result, there no residue left at the tip so there is no potential for contamination or oxidation. “Having all of these safeguards of the formula built into the package allows us to create a formula that is preservative-free. By minimizing the ingredients in the formula, Toleriane Ultra is wellsuited for those individuals with sensitive skin,” Foltis concluded. According to one LaRoche-Posay marketing executive, it was a long journey to get it right, stretching out over three years and several different pack proposals. But it was worth the wait. The patented package—which is exclusive to La RochePosay and has been named a finalist in the HBA Global Expo’s Estée Lauder’s Idealist Cooling Eye Ilcoveted IPDA Awards—will be luminator features a “first-to-market” deployed in another launch specially contoured ceramic applicator slated for 2012, according to that cools, massages and helps re-enthe company. ergize the look of tired, puffy eyes.

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June 2011

• The Power of Packaging

The “Goodness Box” helps Tom’s of Maine communicate quickly with consumers via its packaging.

with their customers when it comes to their own sustainability journey. “What we typically hear from consumers is that they are trying to make better choices—like turning off lights, recycling more—and they want those companies who make the products they buy to make some changes too. They say, ‘Be on that journey with me,’” she told HAPPI. Demeritt says companies should set goals and move toward them, and speak up about it—on the package itself. According to Hartman Group, which is based in Bellevue, WA, packaging is a first and last potential means of communicating a brand’s efforts in sustainability; it is where consumers meet the product on shelves, and dispose of them at the product’s end of life. Synchronizing elements of product narrative, ingredient details and packaging attributes can lend a “significant halo to how companies communicate their efforts in sustainability,” the company wrote in a HartBeat report released this spring. Demeritt pointed to Tom’s of Maine as a firm that has effectively communicated its sustainability efforts on pack. This year, the company tweaked all of its packaging, placing its “Goodness Box” on all products. The box uses icons to quickly communicate the environmental benefits of the product, including the eco-profile of the packaging.

postable tube made of 100% recycled paper, organic glue and soy ink. “Packaging is the most visceral and powerful way a brand can communicate sustainability values,” West told HAPPI. According to Organic Essence, the Eco Tube—which it designed on its own—offers 40% more balm than most brands,

Message in a Bottle Communicating sustainability via packaging is a hot button for Ellery West, founder of Organic Essence, which manufactures USDA certified organic body care products, including a lip balm housed in a com100 • happi

Method released a new line of cleaning products that come in a custom designed, 100% post consumer recycled (PCR) plastic bottle.

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which users like, and it is 40% lighter than traditional plastic tubes, which reduces transportation fuel use. Is the tube a competitive advantage for the Crescent City, CA-based company? Yes, but Organic Essence wants to share it—or better yet, sell it to—the rest of industry. The principals of the company have since formed Eco Vision Packaging to manufacture and license its packaging ideas, including the eco tube. Eco Vision has recently filed patent applications for its all-paper-tube-container that is made from one piece of tube, eliminating the edge curl and disk approach— with hand labor—that is commonly used. This automatic process promises to dramatically decrease paper tube packaging production costs across much of the paper tube industry, according to West.

Upping the Ante As more companies address sustainability and incorporate more environmentally friendly packaging, the most eco-minded firms are pushing themselves further. Tom’s of Maine is always looking for new ways to lessen the environmental impact of its packaging, whether that means switching materials or eliminating excess. In fact, this year it began packaging its toothpaste in plastic“laminate”tubes rather than the aluminum tubes that had been used by the brand since the mid-1970s, and had become synonymous with the company. In addition, Tom’s has eliminated the box on its children’s toothpaste. In late April, Method released a new line of cleaning products that come in what the firm says is the only custom designed, 100% post consumer recycled (PCR) plastic bottle in the mass market. Overall, PCR reduces the carbon emissions from plastic production by more than 70% compared to virgin plastics. Raising the bar to 100% PCR plastic was a natural choice—and prime example of “cradle to cradle product design, effectively using the plastic that’s already on the planet in a beautifully executed package,” noted Drummond Lawson, Method’s director of “greenskeeping.” Through developing a super-clean supply June 2011

• The Power of Packaging

Seventh Generation has a liquid laundry detergent bottle made from 100% recycled cardboard and newspaper.

chain for the recycled plastic, the normally cloudy PCR is crystal clear and is fully recyclable, according to company said. Rival eco firm Seventh Generation, Burlington, VT, has taken a bold step in the household care aisle too, introducing a liquid laundry detergent bottle made from 100% recycled cardboard and

newspaper. The Natural 4X Laundry Detergent bottle, designed with Seventh Generation’s partners at Ecologic Brands, features a fully-recyclable and a compostable outer shell made from 70% recycled cardboard fibers and 30% old newspaper fibers that supports a recyclable lightweight plastic pouch made of #4 plastic inside. The rugged pack uses 66% less plastic than typical 100oz 2X detergent bottles. The pack’s #5 cap can be placed in the recycling bin too. Greener packaging is taking hold outside of traditional mass outlets and supermarkets where consumers shop for their household cleaners. Global home improvement retailer The Home Depot sports its own Eco Options label for products that meet certain environmental performance criteria and Green Earth Technologies’ GClean line has made the ranks. In addition to sustainable formulas, G-Clean’s pressure washer cleaning solutions are sold in sustainable/reusable collapsible bags. According to the company, 12oz of detergent are sealed in a 1-gallon collapsible bag; consumers add water to complete a full gallon of ready-to-use concentrate that will in turn make up to 21 gallons of detergent.

After the Sale When it comes to recycling, the ubiquitous green arrow symbol is a given on any pack that meets the criteria, but actually getting the bottle, tube or cap“in the loop”is out of the marketer’s hand. The onus falls on consumers—some of whom are committed to the practice, but others not so much. Some marketers have taken action to increase recycling rates. Aveda, for example, created its own highly successful recycling program, “Recycle Caps with Aveda,” which works in partnership with community schools. Collected caps are sent to Aveda distribution facilities in California, Minnesota and New York and are delivered to a plastics recycler where they are cleaned, sorted and ground into pellets. The pellets are sent to Aveda’s closure manufacturer where they are molded into new, 100% recycled plastic caps that Aveda uses. More than 1,600 schools participate in the program, and more than 488,000 lbs. of 102 • happi

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June 2011

The Power of Packaging

•

At Preserve’s "Gimme 5" boxes customers can recycle #5 plastic such as caps, spray bottle heads , yogurt containers and baby wipe tubs. The program is supported by Tom’s of Maine and Seventh Generation.

Caps off to Aveda. Thanks to its own Recycle Caps with Aveda program, it uses 100% recycled caps on its Aveda’s Full Spectrum Hair Color line.

plastic caps have been collected to date. Initially the 100% recycled caps were used on Vintage Clove Shampoo, a product rolled out in 2008 to celebrate the firm’s 30th anniversary. Currently, the caps are employed

on Aveda’s Full Spectrum Hair Color line, a professional line that is among the brand’s top-sellers. Rather than go it alone, some marketers are partnering with companies that use recycled materials to create new consumer goods and benefit the greater good via charitable donations. In May, Seventh Generation formed an alliance with Preserve’s “Gimme 5”program, which allows customers to recycle #5 plastic (polypropylene plastic)—a material which some estimate 98% is not normally recycled—by dropping their packages in the Gimme 5 recycling bins found in Whole Foods Markets and other natural food stores

We’re taking a (super)critical look at extract quality

FLAVEX ® Naturextrakte GmbH [email protected] · www.flavex.com

June 2011

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• The Power of Packaging

across the U.S. Using the #5 plastic, Preserve produces 100% recycled household goods such as tableware and toothbrushes.

Consumers are more likely to recycle if there is a personal benefit, say some experts.

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Once in the bin, Seventh Generation’s bottle caps, spray bottle heads and baby wipe tubs will be mingling with other #5s, like yogurt containers from Stonyfield Farm and water filters from Brita—not to mention #5 materials from Tom’s of Maine, which is entering its second year of sponsoring the program. In April, L’Oréal’s Garnier brand created an exclusive partnership with TerraCycle, another company specializing in making consumer products from postconsumer materials. TerraCycle’s “Brigades”collect previously non-recyclable or hard to recycle waste— thinks flip flops, old cell phones, candy wrappers—and ship them (for free) to TerraCycle, which in turn makes a donation for each piece that is collected. Specifically, Garnier is sponsoring the worldwide Personal Care and Beauty Brigade, which will

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collect a variety of packs including lipstick cases, mascara tubes, eyeshadow cases, shampoo bottles, nail polish, eyeliner pencils, hair gel tubes and hair paste jars. According to Garnier, it is the first to provide such a comprehensive solution to personal care and beauty packaging waste anywhere in the world, a necessity as some say personal care and beauty products account for one-third of all landfill waste. The brand will accept any personal care maker’s recyclables. Other household and personal care brands are in the TerraCycle program, including Colgate (which has an oral care brigade accepting toothpaste tubes, toothbrushes and plastic toothbrush packaging, and another for Wisp), J&J’s Neosporin. Dropps laundry detergent and most recently, Method. The Method Refill Brigade will collect the brand’s used

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• The Power of Packaging

Suppliers Speak Out

Tom’s of Maine has eliminated the carton on its children’s toothpaste.

soap refill packages. To date, more than 1.9 billion pieces of waste have been collected by TerraCycle, which has dolled out more than $2.4 million to schools and non-profits. Yet, a close look at the household and personal care participants shows some brigades have made more progress than others at this point—although many of the alliances are new, and typically consumers are more in tune with recycling their spent water, soda and juice bottles than household and personal care products. But experts suggest adding a“human element” to the process may resonate better with reluctant recyclers. They might be more willing to take part when they can see a tangible personal benefit, according Demerit, who cited the success of the Box Tops for Education, a popular program in which consumers collect labels from a wide range of products to earn funds for their local schools. 106 • happi

As companies in the household, beauty and personal care continue to assess their packaging and sort through the process, suppliers are fielding more calls for greener materials. And while companies recognize that they need to go greener, material costs can catch firms off guard. “A lot of companies want to jump on the green bandwagon and want their product and packaging to be green. But a majority of the green packaging use special bio resins that are more expensive than traditional packaging, so they opt out of the green and stay with their current packaging,” commented Jen Brady of Brad-Pak Enterprises. She suggested that customers can always consider using a PCR packaging component, which often is just slightly more expensive than traditional components that are not as “green.” For West of Organic Essence, the material is the message in the market. “Brand managers need to consider that their package sitting on the shelf at the point of purchase is a significant marketing asset, not just another raw material cost. Many brand managers and procurement officers reflexively view marketing as another department’s responsibility—this can be a competitive disadvantage, particularly in this rapidly evolving and competitive environment.” He suggested looking back to older, existing materials that can deliver protection and ease of use, but have fallen out of favor, or packs that are used by other industries. As examples, West pointed to the once popular paperboard container used for many dry color cosmetic products, and Lush’s use of an ice cream package for some of its hair treatments. ABA Packaging Corp. reports a resurgence of the glass jars business as a result of the ecological awareness movement.“Glass is produced from a sustainable source and is probably one of the most recycled packaging materials in the industry,” said Michael Warford, national sales manager. In addition, Warford said ABA’s key manufacturers deliver bottles, jars and happi.com

other plastic components with recycled content plastic materials, like SR Packaging’s PET bottles and jars with various levels of PCR. In addition, ABA Packaging is the source in North America for OEKAbeauty’s mascara, lipgloss and lipstick packaging products. According to Warford, OEKAbeauty recently introduced a lipstick package as part of their Eco Pak line that is made 100% from polypropylene, including the mechanism. “The move to polypropylene enhanced the package by making it airtight as well,” Warford concluded. Mike Sawant, chief marketing officer at The Visual Pak Companies, told HAPPI that clamshell, blister and club-store customers are changing either to recycled plastic materials or changing their packaging type altogether. Customers are “converting to trapped blisters—a smaller thermoformed blister trapped between two paperboard cards. The trapped blister keeps the pilferproof qualities of a sealed clamshell, yet uses less plastic and provides more surface area for graphics,” he said. To meet this need, Visual Pak has custom built high-volume trapped blister lines, and it leverages internal thermoforming and paperboard-printing facilities to deliver a turnkey product utilizing newly developed sustainable packaging materials. McKernan Packaging Clearing House sees a solution in pre-cycling or pre-consumer recycling. For more than 50 years, the Reno, NV-based firm has offered the industry a way to buy or sell its obsolete or surplus packaging components instead of “scrapping, regrinding or jamming them into the landfill,” said Tim McKernan.“The added value is that you save and profit from being green and helping the environment.”

Packaging Resources Looking for packaging suppliers? See our directory, which appears on pg 109 in this issue.

June 2011

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• The Power of Packaging

HBA Global Expo Announces 2011 IPDA Finalists

• L’Oréal Paris Root Rescue 10 Minute Root Coloring Kit by L’Oréal Paris; submitted by Alison Brod Public Relations

HBA Global Expo has announced the finalists of its Annual International Package Design Awards (IPDA). From among these finalists, the Category Winners will be announced June 28 during the HBA Global Expo & Conference in New York City’s Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. The finalists are:

• Softsoap Pampered Hands/Foaming Liquid Hand Soap by ColgatePalmolive Company; submitted by Colgate-Palmolive Company

PERSONAL CARE PRESTIGE • 21 Drops Aromatherapy Blends by 21 Drops; submitted by 21 Drops

COSMETIC MASS

• Biomega by Aquage; submitted by Aquage

• Organic Wear 100% Natural Origin Jumbo Lash Mascara by Physicians Formula; submitted by Physicians Formula

• Ojon Volume Advance: Volumizing Brush on Mousse by Ojon; submitted by The Estee Lauder Companies, Inc.

• Revlon Age Defying with DNA Advantage Cream Makeup by Revlon; submitted by Revlon Consumer Products Corp.

• Victoria's Secret Bombshell Body Mist by Victoria's Secret; submitted by VPI

• Revlon Custom Eyes by Revlon; submitted by Topline Products Co. • Super Stay 24 Color by Maybelline New York; submitted by HLP Klearfold

SAMPLING/TRAVEL SIZE PACKAGING • Apothia Amenity by Apothia; submitted by Hunter Amenities Interna-

COSMETICS PRESTIGE

tional Ltd

• Black Magic by Ultraflesh; submitted by Alison Brod Public Relations • Peony Blossoms Lip Pots by Estée Lauder; submitted by The Estée Lauder Companies

• Nexxis Therappe Shampoo, Humectress Conditioner & New Humectress Deep Conditioner Sample Pack by Nexxis; submitted by Encompass Elements

• Royalty Lipsticks by ybf beauty LLC; submitted by ybf beauty LLC

• Obagi Travel Size by Obagi Medical Products; submitted by Bay Cities

• Stila Color Wheel Palette by Stila; submitted by Stila

• sen7 fragrance atomizer by Max Time GmbH; submitted by Max Time GmbH

FRAGRANCE MASS

SKIN CARE MASS

• 1200 degrees by L'BEL; submitted by Belcorp

• Nutrasphere Product line by Sonya Dakar; submitted by PKG Group

• BUD Budapest by The Scent of Departure; submitted by The Scent of

• L'Oreal Paris Youth Code Eye Cream by L'Oreal Paris; submitted by Al-

Departure • Flight by Michael Jordan by Five Star Fragrance; submitted by Five Star

ison Brod Public Relations • tn [teen's nature] by Yuhan-Kimberly; submitted by Kimberly-Clark

Fragrance

• Toleriane Ultra by La Roche-Posay; submitted by Creative Media Marketing

• Thinking of You by Mary Kay Inc; submitted by Axilone USA

FRAGRANCE PRESTIGE

SKIN CARE PRESTIGE

• Bang by Marc Jacobs; submitted by Qualipac America

• bareMinerals Pure Transformation Night Treatment by Bare Escentuals;

• Bleu de Chanel by Chanel; submitted by Chanel

submitted byBare Escentuals

• Coach Poppy by Coach; submitted by The Estée Lauder Companies, Inc.

• b.right! Radiant Skincare by Benefit Cosmetics; submitted by Maesa

• Happ & Stahns Rosa Alba by Anthropologie; submitted by InterParfums.

• Naruko Taiwan Magnolia Skincare Range by Naruko; submitted by Naruko

GREEN PACKAGING

• SK-II Skin Signature and Cellumination by SK-II (P&G Prestige); sub-

• Artisan Botanical Perfume by Pacific Perfumes Ltd; submitted by Pacific Perfumes Ltd • Aveda Grounding Ritual Candle by Aveda; submitted by The Estée

mitted by Nice Ltd.

TOOLS/AT HOME DEVICES PACKAGING • Brush with Genius Set by Bare Escentuals; submitted by Anisa Inter-

Lauder Companies • geoGiRL Cosmetics by Pacific World Corporation; submitted by Pacific

national, Inc. • Glo Brilliant Personal Teeth Whitening Device by Glo Science, LLC; sub-

World Corporation • Mother Earth Essentials Hotel Amenity Line by Mother Earth Essentials;

mitted by Bold PR • Magy-C by Sharon-Lee; submitted by Sharon-Lee Holdings PL

submitted by Mother Earth Essentials

• Real Techniques by Paris Presents Incorporated; submitted by Paris

PERSONAL CARE MASS

Presents Incorporated

• Axe Shower Gel by Unilever; submitted by Edelman • Camay by Procter & Gamble; submitted by LPK • Essence of Beauty Body Care Line by CVS/pharmacy; submitted by TricorBraun

108 • happi

Beauty Packaging and HAPPI magazines are the media sponsors of the HBA IPDA Awards.

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June 2011

Packaging Supplier DIRECTORY Here is a list of packaging suppliers to the beauty, personal care and household products industry. For more information, contact the supplier directly using the information provided.

ABA Packaging Corp. Holtsville NY (main office and warehouse); Satellite office: Los Angeles, CA 800-443-9799 Email: [email protected] Website: www.abapackaging.com • Established in 1984, ABA Packaging Corp. is a stocking distributor of glass fragrance and treatment bottles/PET bottles, tubes/ glass and plastic jars/plastic wood and metal caps and closures/spray, treatment and lotion pumps/airless and treatment pump packages/rollerballs, mascara, lipgloss and lipstick packages/droppers and more. We provide decorating services.

Albéa Gennevilliers,France 33 1 81 93 19 87 Website: www.albea-group.com • Albea is one of the world’s leading packaging companies providing a wide range of solutions for the makeup, fragrance, skincare, personal and oral care markets. Headquartered in France, Albea employs 9,300 people and operates with 31 manufacturing facilities in 13 different countries across Europe, the Americas and Asia. Our product portfolio includes plastic and laminate tubes, mascaras, lipsticks, lip glosses, compacts, plastic closures and shells, spray-caps, jars, lids, June 2011

cosmetic accessories, bags and promotional items and full service.

Aptar Beauty + Home Stratford, CT 203-377-8100 Email: [email protected] Website: www.aptar.com • Aptar Beauty + Home creates innovative dispensing systems for fragrance, cosmetic, personal care and household product marketers. With a wide range of dispensing solutions and a broad geographic presence, we help our customers stay ahead of the ever-changing demands of consumers around the globe.

Arkay Packaging New York, NY 631-273-2000 Email: [email protected] Website: www.arkay.com • One of the world’s premiere folding carton companies for 89 years, Arkay provides top global cosmetic and pharmaceutical companies with highly creative, cost-effective and eco-friendly packaging solutions. Using the most advanced cutting-edge technologies in the business and working with a palette of decorative special effects, Arkay partners with designers to meet any visual challenge. happi.com

Brad-Pak Enterprises, Inc. Garwood, NJ 908-233-1234 Email: [email protected] Website: www.brad-pak.com • Brad-Pak Enterprises, Inc. is a full service distributor of glass, plastic and aluminum containers, closures, pumps and numerous other items that can be used to showcase your products. Also offered are decorating/frosting and package engineering services. With an extensive knowledge of the cosmetic, fragrance, chemical, aromatherapy and personal care markets, Brad-Pak can help you select the package that is right for your product or market niche.

Chicago Paper Tube & Can Company Chicago, IL 773-283-9500 Email: [email protected] Website: www.chicagopapertube.com • Chicago Paper Tube & Can Company is a leading manufacturer of custom, highend, round paperboard containers exclusively manufactured in the U.S. Headquartered in Chicago since 1898, we provide sustainable packaging for designer brands within a diverse group of industries, including health and beauty, home care happi • 109

• Packaging Supplier Directory

and gourmet foods.

Condensa S.A. Santiago, Chile 56-2-519 5711 Email: [email protected]

Website: www.condensa.cl • Aluminium packaging manufacturer for the small- to large-sized company, with more than 35 years of experience in the aerosol and aluminium packaging industry. Specialized in the cosmetic and per-

sonal care industries and currently supplying the leading brands and the main contract fillers of the industry. ISO 9001:2008 certificated. F.E.A. regulations: European Federation of Aerosols.

Cosmogen Inc New York, NY 201-218-8586 (Serene Seebol, cell) Email: [email protected] Website: www.cosmogen.fr • Cosmogen has 30 years of experience as a cosmetic packaging company resulting in five years of expertise with the Squeeze Range Tubes. It designs and develops professional brushes, brushpens and tubes to clients’ expectations. Its expertise combines both containing and applying functionalities that enhance the cosmetic category. Cosmogen is a pioneer in the design, development and production of cosmetic packaging.

CoValence Laboratories Chandler, AZ 480-897-0551 Email: [email protected] Website: www.covalence.com • CoValence Laboratories is a NOP Certified, FDA and cGMP registered contract and private label manufacturer with over 20 years of experience in the professional and retail skin care industry. We have been a prominent leader and driving force in the global skin care industry.

Dapy USA New York, NY 646-393-4717 x1 Email: [email protected] Website: www.dapyparis.com • Since 1980, Dapy Paris is a turnkey manufacturer of plastic injected molded packaging, folded boxes, vacuum formed platforms, set up boxes (cardboard, metal and/or wood), sleeves, backer cards and labels. As each product is unique, our approach is based on an in-depth study of your envi110 • happi

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June 2011

Packaging Supplier Directory

ronment and your objectives to provide creative solutions that are carefully customized to your individual needs.

Diamond Packaging Rochester, NY 800-333-4079 Email: [email protected] Website: www.diamondpackaging.com, www.diamondpackaging.com/green • Now celebrating its 100th anniversary, Diamond Packaging is a 100% womenowned, WBENC-certified company specializing in developing innovative and sustainable packaging solutions for the personal care (cosmetics and skin care, fragrance, hair care), health care, pharmaceutical, nutraceutical and food and confectionery industries. Diamond differentiates itself through innovative design, technical expertise, Diamond’s greenbox sustainability initiative,

contract packaging services and its Global Packaging Alliance (GPA).

DISC Inc. Hauppauge, NY 631-234-1400 Fax: 631-234-1460 Website: www.discgraphics.com Contact: John Rebecchi, SVP, marketing & business development Email: [email protected] • DISC has been a leading resource in packaging and print for the beauty, personal care and consumer products industries for more than 20 years. We produce paperboard and plastic folding cartons, award winning specialty packaging, digital, offset and flexo printing, pressure-sensitive labels and have in house foil stamping and specialty finishing operations.

•

Express Tubes Kent, WA 800-365-4080 Email (for customer inquiries): [email protected] Website: www.expresstubes.com • Express Tubes has been producing anywhere from 5,000 to 5 million tubes to clients worldwide since 2003 and is now producing bottles, jars, aluminum cans, shrink sleeves and more. Our excellent customer service, high quality products, competitive pricing and quick lead times make us the experts in custom packaging.

Fusion Packaging Dallas, TX (Corporate Headquarters) New York, Los Angeles, Zhejiang, China 214-747-2004, 866-587-1152 Email: [email protected] Website: www.fusionpkg.com

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Select the perfect size and shape, from 1/2cc to 90cc, to hold precisely the amount of product desired. Multicolor printing available to enhance product presentation and recognition Telephone us toll-free 877-930-3200 or e-mail [email protected] today for our brochure and samples. Introducing fully recyclable packaging SPI 3 and 7. Unit Pack Company Inc. 7 Lewis Road, Cedar Grove NJ 07009-1498 / Phone: 973-239-4112 / Fax: 973-239-0429 June 2011

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• Packaging Supplier Directory

• Fusion Packaging, a global leader in the design, engineering, manufacturing and distribution of skin care and cosmetics packaging, is a dynamic, collaborative company that understands the unique needs of product brands and the consumers they serve. Many of the world’s most recognized beauty companies have come to rely on Fusion’s innovation and expertise for their packaging needs.

Website: www.hctpackaging.com • HCT Group possesses the world’s most comprehensive range of plastic, metal and carton board packaging and our stock packaging portfolio expands year on year. Unparalleled expertise in trend analysis, design and engineering, together with our pilot and tooling capabilities allow us to fast track your developments from concept to customer ahead of the competition.

Website: www.inoacusa.com • Packaging Group is a renowned global manufacturer of quality heavy-wall PET bottles and jars for some of the world’s most prestigious cosmetic companies. Inoac creates innovative packages for customers worldwide by combining the aesthetics of shape and color with the practicality of stateof-the-art technology and one-stop-shop manufacturing.

Glenroy, Inc.

HLP Klearfold

James Alexander Corporation

Menomonee Falls, WI 800-824-1482 Email: [email protected] Website: www.glenroy.com • Manufacturer of flexible packaging film for a wide array of products, including liquids, creams, lotions, balms, powders, towelettes and more. Glenroy’s value-added flexible packaging will provide you with consistent quality, environmental benefits, customized packaging solutions and the lowest cost of use. Glenroy’s quality flexible packaging films are enhanced with awardwinning flexographic printing.

New York, NY 888-457-7225 Email: [email protected] Website: www.hlpklearfold.com • HLP Klearfold is a clear packaging specialist. We are the world’s largest and most experienced producer of plastic folding cartons and a leading supplier of tubes, rounds and custom thermoforming. Our clear packaging is innovative, functional, creates strong visual impressions and helps to unlock a brand’s potential.

Blairstown, NJ 908-362-9266 Email: [email protected] Website: www.james-alexander.com • James Alexander is a custom filler contract packager of single-use glass and plastic ampoules. Our patented plastic ampoule has various tips, droppers, foam heads, angled and flat. Also available in any pantone color. Our glass ampoules go into our swab, inhalant and dropper packages.

Identipak, Inc

Jerhel Plastics, Inc.

Brea, CA 949-500-1601 Email: [email protected] Website: www.globalpack.biz • Global Packaging Inc. is a manufacturer of plastic tubes and aluminum and plastic barrier laminate tubes in rounds, ovals and super-flat ovals and new airless PE tubes and PCR tubes. Offering highend decorating in offset, silk screening and hot stamping of tubes and closures, with a wide variety of applicator tips and closures. Offering quick turn-around, competitive pricing and low minimums. In addition, we are a supplier of luxury jars and bottles.

McAllen, TX 956-630-4403 Email: [email protected] Website: www.identipak.com • Sampling is our business. We have been creating new and innovative product samples for various industries (i.e. personal care, cosmetic, etc.) for over 18 years. We uphold the highest standards of quality and care, as well as green practices in our manufacturing. We offer sampling solutions that reach millions of consumers and turns them into loyal customers. So when you combine our impeccable quality, innovation, competitive pricing, stylistic design and packaging with our experience, you get what we call “Smart Sampling.”

Bayonne, NJ 201-436-6662 Email: [email protected] Website: http://jerhel.com • Jerhel Plastics, Inc. is a woman-owned business that was founded in 1986. We serve the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries with high quality injection and blow molded packaging as well as turnkey solutions.

HCT Packaging Inc.

Inoac Packaging Group Inc.

Bridgewater, NJ 908-203 8610 Email: [email protected]

Bardstown, KY 502-348-5159 Email: [email protected]

Global Packaging Inc.

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JSN Cosmetic Packaging Irvine, CA 949-458-0050 Email: [email protected] Website: www.jsn.com • JSN is an established West Coast manufacturer of plastic squeeze tubes and custom injection molded products, primarily serving the personal care and cosmetic markets. JSN manufactures tubes in LDPE, MDPE and HDPE materials, with in-house decorating services, including eight-color offset printing, silkscreening, labeling and June 2011

Packaging Supplier Directory

foil stamping.

Kaufman Container Cleveland, OH 800-824-4119 Email: [email protected] Website: www.kaufmancontainer.com • Package development and project management. State-of-the-art decoration including screen printing, hot stamping, and labeling. Glass, plastic and metal bottles, containers, tubes, jars, closures, cans, dispensing systems and more. Stock or custom options. One stop for your every packaging need.

Knoll Printing & Packaging, Inc. Syosset, NY 516-621-0100 Email: [email protected]

Website: www.knollpack.com • Knoll Packaging designs innovative and creative packaging for demanding global brands. We manufacture uniquely shaped boxes that are highly decorated for luxury goods, with a focus on the spirits and cosmetic industries. Our depth of experience and understanding of production make these complex and intriguing designs achievable.

Lerman Container Naugatuck, CT 800-453-7626 Email: [email protected] Website: www.lermaincontainer.com • Lerman Container is your trusted procurement partner for end-to-end packaging solutions, with the added convenience of inhouse manufacturing, on-demand inventory and decorating capabilities. Your one-stop

•

source for packaging components including plastic and glass bottles and jars, plastic and metal closures and sprayers and more!

LF of America Corp. Hollywood, FL 954-963-6226 Email: [email protected] Website: www.LFofAmerica.com • Unit-dose and multi-dose plastic containers for the health and beauty industry. Ampoules in strip of five; unique wand tubes with silicone applicators; unique bellows containers. Specialized filling services.

Lombardi Design Manufacturing Freeport, NY 516-546-4400

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• Packaging Supplier Directory

Email: [email protected] Website: www.lombardi.cc • Providing a molding resource to transform ideas into tangible commodities, our aim is to ensure the process be simple and the experience be positive. Proven that our direction results in the making of the highest quality finished product. We pride ourselves on working closely with each client to produce the most efficient product.

Maesa New York, NY 212-674-5555 Email: [email protected], [email protected] Website: www.maesa.com • Maesa Divisions: Packaging, Beauty and Home—Designs, engineers and manufactures creative packaging components, promotional products, turnkey beauty and home fragrance products for leading retailers and brands. Maesa Studio—Brand identity, industrial design, package design, graphic design and comp creation.

McKernan Packaging Clearing House Reno, NV 800-SURPLUS Email: [email protected] Website: www.mckernan.com • Whenever you have unwanted, obsolete or surplus packaging inventory, McKernan Packaging Clearing House is your opportunity to maximize profits. We are an environmentally responsible and profitable solution to scrapping or traditional recycling. When you need to clear inventory in a short period, call MPCH.

MeadWestvaco Corporation (MWV) Richmond, VA 804-444-1000 Email: [email protected] Website: www.mwv.com 114 • happi

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Paris Art Label Co., Inc.

Neopac

Patchogue, NY 631-648-6200 Email: [email protected] Website: Parisartlabel.com • Paris Art Label is one of the oldest label manufacturers in the U.S. specializing in silk screening, 4 color process, extended content labels, hot stamping, embossing, hang tags, shrink sleeves and also assembly and fullfillment through TAL. Please contact us for any of your labeling/assembly/and application needs.

MWV is a global leader in consumer packaging and offers end-to-end capabilities in dispensing systems and packaging solutions for beauty and personal care, home and garden, and many other markets. MWV brings a unique understanding of consumer insights and materials expertise to create differentiated, quality packaging for the world’s most admired brands.

Millington, NJ 973-670-8367 Email: [email protected] Website: www.neopac.com • Neopac is the worldwide specialist for development and production of Polyfoil high barrier tubes. We are a leading tube provider in the premium segments of the pharmaceutical, cosmetics and dental industries for capacities from 1ml to 300 ml. Our tubes enhance your product’s image with outstanding quality, safety and aesthetics.

New High Glass, Inc. Miami, FL 305-232-0840 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.newhigh.com • With 30 years of providing quality glass and plastic packaging for cosmetics, fragrance, nail care and other industries, NHG has the products and experience to be your packaging supplier.

O.Berk Company Union, NJ 908-851-9500 Email: [email protected] Website: www.oberk.com • O.Berk Company, with four locations on the East Coast, provides complete packaging services and solutions to the beauty/personal care, pharmaceutical/healthcare, food/ beverage and household/industrial markets, with stock and custom plastic and glass containers, caps, pumps, sprayers, along with labeling and decorating services. happi.com

Pearce Plastics, Inc. Innovation Update, LLC Pasadena, CA 626-797-8481 Website: www.pearceplastics.com, www.ventingcaps.com • Pearce Plastics manufactures caps and jars and specializes in vented technology for containers that need venting. All of our products are manufactured using Pantone Matching System colors in small and medium sized runs. We also have specialized colors called Cyber Colors.

PKG Group, LLC Headquarters: Beverly Hills, CA 310-205-9038 Fax: 310.205.9147 East Coast Sales Office: Somerset, NJ 732-560-9337 Fax: 732-560-9448 Showroom: New York, NY 212-965-0112 Fax: 212-965-0112 Email: [email protected] Website: www.pkggroup.com • PKG Group is a well-known and established industry leader supplying complete packaging solutions for the cosmetic, beauty, skin care and personal care industries. PKG Group, LLC offers standard and custom airless packaging, LuxeFoil and PE standard and airless tubes through their exclusive representation of Yonwoo Korea in the Americas. PKG Group, LLC is your global source for standard and custom inJune 2011

Packaging Supplier Directory

jection molded compacts, closures, heavy wall jars, injection blow and stretch blow heavyweight bottles as well as custom and stock designs for glass. PKG Group consistently strives to meet the needs of our customers and set new standards for high quality dispensing solutions and consumer use applications. PKG Group has an expert staff of sales, service, QA, industrial design and engineering professionals to help you realize your product and brand initiatives. Let the power of the group work for you.

Prime Label & Screen, Inc. Pewaukee, WI 262-542-1600 Email: [email protected] Website: www.primels.com • Prime Label & Screen specializes in flexible packaging and innovative resealable closures for a large variety of products including

June 2011

household, cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications.

Qosmedix Edgewood, NY 631-242-3270 Email: [email protected] Website: www.qosmedix.com • Qosmedix is a certified global supplier to the cosmetic and skin care industries. Founded on the concept of maintaining hygienic practices during beauty consultations, the company has expanded to provide an array of quality products that offer convenience and value including brushes, swabs, applicators, disposable spa wear, jars, bottles and more.

Rexam Closures Perrysburg, OH

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800-537-0735 Email: [email protected] Website: www.rexam.com/closures • Personal care plastic packaging supplier of one of the industry’s largest lines of double wall, single wall, expanded, and heavy wall jars; high end thermoset, continuous thread, tamper-evident, dispensing and child-resistant closures. Decoration options available. Contact 1-800-537-0735 or [email protected].

SGD North America, Inc. New York, NY 212-753-4200 Email: [email protected] Website: www.sgdgroup.com • SGD is the world leader in specialty glass packaging, offering glass production and in-house decoration, including

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• Packaging Supplier Directory

spraying, screening, hot stamping, acid etching and gluing at our U.S. facilities in Georgia. SGD also offers an extensive range of stock fragrance and cosmetic bottles “La Collection” which can be customized to achieve your creative dreams.

Stull Technologies

Email: [email protected] Website: www.unitpack.com • Unit Pack produces flexible unit of use pillow pouches in any size from .5ml through 30ml. Hot-stamped decorated packs are available in clear or white. Unit Packs are manufactured with fully recyclable materials. Unit Pack is an FDA inspected and certified organic facility. All GMPs are in place.

Somerset, NJ 732-873-5000 Email: [email protected] Website: www.stulltech.com • Stull Technologies is a worldwide leader in design, development, and manufacturing of innovative dispensing closures, caps, lids and packaging components. Stull will work with you on every phase of your project from conception to mass production. Our team provides ongoing support that combines cutting edge packaging solutions with improved speed-to-market processing.

New Windsor, NY 845-561-2440 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.VerlaInternational.com • Private label manufacturer and contract packaging filling company, over 100 lines for nail polish, color cosmetics, skin care, fragrance and scrubs. Packaging library offers over 60,000 options. Full service and turnkey options.

Taiki USA

The Visual Pak Companies

Montvale, NJ 201-507-0555 Email: [email protected] Website: www.taikiusabeauty.com • For over 50 years, Taiki Group has provided solutions for application challenges for the largest beauty brands in the world. Taiki specializes in the art and science of makeup and skin care application—beauty tools, beauty dispensers and beauty products.

Waukegan, IL 877-689-0001 Email: [email protected] Website: www.visualpak.com • Your single source for contract manufacturing and packaging solutions—liquid blending and filling; blisters, clamshells, trays and custom thermoforming; printed paperboard, blister cards, chip and folding cartons; secondary packaging, cartoning, blister sealing, steam shrink sleeving, multi-pack banding and shrink wrapping; and warehouse, distribution, fulfillment and logistics.

Taplast USA Willowbrook, IL 630-986-0343 Email: [email protected] Website: www.taplast.com • Global manufacturer of innovative dispensing systems, including lotion pumps, spray pumps, foamer pumps and a wide variety of unique dispensing closures.

Unit Pack Co., Inc. Cedar Grove, NJ 973-239-4112 116 • happi

Verla International, Ltd.

include custom bottles and jars in standard and heavy wall PETE. Airless dispensing systems. In house design. “Turn key” solutions in makeup, skin care, fragrance and promotional categories.

Wormser Corporation Englewood, NJ 201-627-1000 Email: [email protected] Website: www.wormsercorp.com • Wormser Corporation specializes in importing cosmetic and personal care packaging and products worldwide. We develop custom solutions utilizing our factories in China to achieve best results in price and quality. Our goal is to share our expertise with you and create products for every aspect of your production cycle.

World Wide Packaging, LLC Florham Park, NJ 973-805-6500 Email: [email protected] Website: www.wwpinc.com • Since 1980, World Wide Packaging (WWP) has supplied the cosmetics and skin care industries with a complete range of components, as well as custom and stock molding for primary packaging, new plastic tube innovations, and contract manufacturing capabilities. World Wide Packaging is now offering formulation and filling services in its state-of-the-art facility. Appealing to the luxury, mass and teen markets, all of our products are backed by dependable service and competitive pricing.•

VPI Clifton, NJ Showroom: New York, NY 973-235-9030 Email: [email protected] Website: www.vpipackaging.com • ”Vision-Packaging-Innovation”-VPI provides innovative custom and stock packaging solutions to the personal care and beauty markets. Core competencies happi.com

Looking for More? If you’re looking for even more suppliers of packaging materials, be sure to read our Buyers’ Guide, which is published every February and is also available online at Happi.com.

June 2011

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Applications for Sustainable Cellulose Derivatives In Personal Care An AkzoNobel researcher details the benefits of a new family of water-soluble cellulose derivatives. These ingredients provide rheology modification, improve the aesthetics of personal care formulations, deliver beneficial properties and enable the formulation of differentiated consumer products. Ra’eda Asad • AkzoNobel Global Personal Care

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products are a staple of the personal care market. As consumers exhibit a strong desire for “greener” personal care products, it is a challenge for the formulator to create systems that meet their desire for increased sustainability as well as their demand for high performance. The growing demand for greener goods has led to advancements in the development of biopolymers for personal care that provide a more natural and sustainable alternative to synthetic polymeric rheology control ATURAL OR SUSTAINABLE

agents. Nonionic derivatives of cellulose, notably hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC), have long been used as thickeners and rheology modifiers in personal care products. Modification of cellulose has enabled the development of a class of cellulose derivatives for personal care that provide new and unique benefits to a variety of personal care formulations. A new family of water-soluble cellulose derivatives developed by AkzoNobel Global Personal Care provides more sustainable rheology control as well as im-

Figure 1: Surface tension measurements of various EHEC aqueous solutions.

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proved efficiency in formulation. These ingredients also serve to modify the aesthetics of personal care formulations, delivering beneficial properties and enabling the formulation of differentiated consumer products. They are suitable for personal care products including shampoos, conditioners, styling products, personal cleansers and skin care products. AkzoNobel Global Personal Care promotes these derivatives under the Structure Cel trade name. The new family includes ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose (EHEC), methyl hydroxyethyl cellulose (MEHEC) and hydrophobically modified ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose (HM-EHEC). These naturally based polymers, derived from sources including wood and cotton linter, are not only effective thickeners and rheology modifiers but also display high surface activity in comparison to HEC, leading to additional benefits in formulation. EHEC, MEHEC and HM-EHEC are readily dissolvable powders that exhibit stronger surface active properties than conventional HEC. Figure 1 shows the surface tension of different cellulosic derivatives in aqueous systems. Low surface tension allows stronger interaction with surfactants in shampoos and personal wash formulations that will result in enhanced foam and cleansing performance. June 2011

Cellulose Derivatives

The key structural variables of these ingredients include molecular weight of the polymer, degree of ethoxylation, degree of alkylation and alkyl group size. Chain entanglement is the main thickening mechanism of EHEC and MEHEC. The viscosity of EHEC or MEHEC solutions depends principally on the chain length of the polymer molecules, degree of polymerization and the molecular weight. The thickening mechanism of HM-EHEC contains contributions from both chain entanglements and hydrophobic interactions. In an aqueous solution, the hydrophobic groups of HM-EHEC along the water-soluble EHEC backbone attempt to minimize contact with water and associate to each other. The association of the hydrophobic groups is very similar to selfassociation of surfactants into micelles. The surface of the micelle is covered by the hydrophilic EHEC backbone.

Rheological Properties Rheological properties are of great importance in personal care formulations such as shampoos, conditioners and hair gels where flow behavior is a critical performance factor. Because EHEC, MEHEC and HM-EHEC solutions are non-Newtonian, there is a non-linear correlation between the viscosity and the mechanical stress ap-

18 plied to the 16 liquid. Similar to most poly14 mers in a so12 lution, the 10 viscosity re8 lates to the 6 shear rate in a 4 shear-thin2 ning way. 0 Rheology 0.01 0.1 1 10 100 1000 profile measurements Shear Rate (s-1) performed EHEC (1%) MEHEC -1 (1%) MEHEC -1 (1%) using cone HM-EHEC (1%) HEC (1%) and plate on a Rheometric S c i e n t i fi c Figure 2: EHEC, MEHEC and HM-EHEC display a range of thickening properties and r h e o m e t e r characteristic shear thinning rheology. have demonstrated that EHEC, MEHEC and HM- MEHEC increase viscosity, modify rheology EHEC in solution offer a wider range of and enhance foam creaminess and richviscosity-building capabilities and shear ness. These benefits can be seen even when thinning rheology than HEC, as illustrated using low surfactant levels (5-6% active) to create mild systems with improved ecoin Figure 2. Since EHEC, MEHEC and HM-EHEC nomics. Thickening and stabilizing sulfateare nonionic polymers, they have consider- free systems is typically a significant able tolerance to salts—as much as 6% salt challenge for the formulating chemist. As in aqueous systems. This benefit can be uti- shown in Figure 3a, MEHEC provides sulized in a variety of personal care applica- perior capabilities for building viscosity and tions. They also show efficient thickening improving the rheology profile of a simple sulfate-free system that is based on sodium capabilities over a broad pH range. In shampoos and cleansers, EHEC and C14-16 alpha olefin sulfonate/cocamido-

Viscosity (Pa-S)

Variables and Mechanism

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100

10

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SFS-MEHEC-1 (1.5%)

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Figure 3a: MEHEC impact on sulfate-free shampoo formulation rheology

Figure 3b: MEHEC impact on sulfate-free shampoo formulation rheology com-

compared to salt.

pared to HEC.

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• Cellulose Derivatives

Liquid Darinage Time (s)

800 750 700 650 600 550 500

Salt (7%)

HEC (1.75%)

MEHEC-1 (1.5%)

Figure 4: Liquid drainage time performance (1% of aqueous surfactant solution) indicates that MEHEC forms more stable foams than HEC and salt.

a graduated cylinder. Liquid drainage time was the time taken to drain half of the solution. In conditioner formulations, EHEC, MEHEC and HM-EHEC exhibit shear-thinning rheology. Figure 6 displays the efficiency of the EHEC as a rheology modifier compared to HEC. EHEC and MEHEC can be used at lower levels to provide equal or better attributes on hair when compared to a traditional conditioner system thickened with HEC. As shown in Figure 7, the conditioner system formulated with EHEC demonstrates improved wet combing, wet feel, and dry combing properties while providing the formulator with improved economics as a result of the lower polymer use level. The nonionic nature of these products allows for excellent compatibility with a wide range of raw materials and it has been identified to be useful in a variety of other personal care applications other than rinse-off systems. A small percentage of EHEC or MEHEC to a traditional styling mousse formulation creates rich, luxurious foams and enhances the texturizing properties, allowing for products that provide lasting height and volume. In skin care applications, EHEC, MEHEC and HM-EHEC provide thickening and texture to formulations and leave the user with smooth application, excellent rub-in properties, reduced tack and a conditioned after-feel.

Conclusions

Figure 5: Foam density of MEHEC (left) vs. HEC (right). MEHEC shows reduced bubble size, foam quality, and enhanced creaminess compared to HEC when used in cleansing systems.

propyl betaine, compared with a similar system thickened with sodium chloride. As shown in Figure 3b, MEHEC is a more efficient thickener for a sulfate-free shampoo system than HEC. EHEC and MEHEC provide additional improvements in aesthetics and foam quality, yielding creamy, rich and more luxurious foam compared with sulfate-free systems thickened with salt or other polymeric thickeners. EHEC and MEHEC also exhibit a great positive impact on the foam characteristics of shampoo formulations by increasing the elasticity of the foam membrane and preventing drainage. This is attributed to their interaction with the surfactants typically used in such formulations. As shown in the performance graph in Figure 4 and depicted in the photos of Figure 5, MEHEC provides dramatic enhancement of foam stability and creaminess compared with systems thickened with salt or HEC, even when used at lower levels. Foam evaluation was performed on a 1% MEHEC solution using a Waring blender for 30 seconds, which was then poured into 120 • happi

EHEC, MEHEC and HM-EHEC are naturally derived multifunctional polymers with unique properties, including high surface activity, wide molecular weight range and various degrees of ethoxylation and alkylation, and alkyl group size. They offer efficient thickening, enhanced performance and unique sensory benefits in a wide range of personal care product types. These new ingredients can be easily formulated into a wide variety of products such as: • Traditional (sulfate containing) shampoos; • Sulfate-free shampoos; • Hair conditioners and treatments; • Skin care emulsions; • Body washes, shower gels and facial cleansers; and • Hair mousses, styling crèmes and lotions. The use of EHEC, MEHEC and HM-EHEC allows formulators to improve thickening efficacy, enhance performance and aesthetics, and meet the growing consumer demand for personal care products containing more naturally derived and sustainable ingredients.

Sulfate Free Shampoo (2346-70H.1) Ingredients: Phase A Deionized water (aqua) Witconate AOS (39% active) (AkzoNobel GPC) (Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate)

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% Wt. 83.00 7.50

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Cellulose Derivatives

Spread 8

10000

Anti-stat

1000

Viscosity (Pa-S) 0.001

Smoother Rinse

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Dry Comb

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C-HEC (1.5%)

EHEC (1%)

Figure 6: EHEC provides thickening efficiency—similar viscosity at reduced

C- HEC (1.5%)

Figure 7: EHEC provides enhanced wet comb, wet feel and dry comb

usage level versus HEC.

attributes on hair when compared to HEC system at lower use level providing improved formulation economics.

Crodateric CAB 30 (30% active) 7.50 (Croda) (Cocamidopropyl betaine) Structure Cel 8000 M 1.50 (AkzoNobel GPC)(Methyl hydroxyethylcellulose) Glydant Plus liquid (Lonza) 0.50 [DMDM hydantoin (and) iodopropynyl butylcarbamate] Procedure: Charge water, Witconate AOS and Crodateric CAB 30 into an appropriately sized vessel and begin mixing, using an overhead mixer, making sure to pull a vortex. Slowly sift Structure Cel 8000 M into the side of the vortex and begin heating to 40ºC. Mix until fully hydrated, then cool to room temperature and add remaining ingredients.

Simply Sensible Shampoo (2346-68K.A) Ingredients: % Wt. Phase A Deionized water (Aqua) 78.50 Standapol ES-2 (25% active) 15.00 (Cognis, Care Chemicals) (Sodium laureth sulfate) Crodateric CAB 30 5.00 (30% active) (Croda) (Cocamidopropyl betaine) Structure Cel 8000 M 1.00 (AkzoNobel GPC) (Methyl hydroxyethylcellulose) June 2011

Glydant Plus liquid (Lonza) 0.50 [DMDM hydantoin (and) iodopropynyl butylcarbamate] Procedure: Charge water, Standapol ES-2 and Crodateric CAB 30 into an appropriately sized vessel. Mix using an overhead mixer, making sure to pull a vortex. Slowly sift Structure Cel 8000 M into the side of the vortex, heat to 45ºC and mix until fully hydrated. Cool to room temperature. Add Glydant Plus. Adjust pH if necessary to 6.0-7.0.

Silky Creamy Conditioner (2346-71A.1) Ingredients %Wt. Phase A Crodacol C95-NF (Croda) 1.50 (Cetyl alcohol) Crodacol CS-50 (Croda) 1.50 (Cetearyl alcohol) Incroquat Behenyl TMC-85 1.27 (Croda)(Behentrimonium chloride (and) isopropyl alcohol) Phase B Deionized water 90.54 (Aqua) Structure Cel 4400 E 1.00 (AkzoNobel GPC)(Hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose) Arquad PC 16-29 (29% active) 3.45 (AkzoNobel GPC)(Cetrimonium chloride) happi.com

Phase C Dissolvine NA2-P chelate 0.25 (AkzoNobel GPC) (Disodium EDTA) Glydant Plus liquid (Lonza) 0.50 (DMDM hydantoin (and) iodopropynyl butylcarbamate) Phase D Citric acid 20% solution q.s. to pH 4.5-5.0 [Citric acid (and) water] Procedure: Add ingredients of phase A into a vessel and heat to 80°C with moderate mixing (hot water bath is good for this type of heating). Add ingredients of phase B into a separate vessel and mix Structure Cel 4400 E in water at 25°C; then begin heating to 80°C and add Arquad PC 16-29 once the 4400 E is completely hydrated. Once at 80°C, add phase B to phase A. Mix at about 400 rpm for 10 minutes at 80°C, then begin cooling to room temperature. Switch to a sweep blade once temperature drops below 50°C and mix at about 200 rpm and add remaining ingredients. Adjust pH if necessary to 4.0-4.5 with phase D. •

About the Author Ra’eda Asad is the hair care project leader for AkzoNobel Global Personal Care. More info: 888-331-6212. Or visit www.akzonobel.com/personalcare happi • 121

Opportunity in Adversity The Consumer Specialty Product Association’s midyear meeting celebrates those who get through life’s tough spots to reemerge wiser and better for their struggles. Tom Branna • Editorial Director

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YOU’RE GOING through hell…keep going. The global economy went through its own kind of agony from 2007 through much of 2009, but 2010 represented a turnaround. Last year, many consumer product companies reemerged as strong or even stronger than before The Great Recession took hold. No wonder, then, that the Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) midyear meeting theme was “finding opportunity in adversity.” The meeting, held last month in Chicago, attracted nearly 450 attendees, an increase of 2% over last year. CSPA chairman John Abplanalp of Precision Valve recalled for attendees the pains his own company went through during the economic slowdown. He urged the audience to keep focused on the endgame, noting that those who can adapt to change emerge stronger, more capable, more humble and better positioned. “It’s not about defeating adversity, but handling it and keep moving forward,” he said. Moving forward through adversity characterizes the Association’s efforts during the past few years too. Association president Chris Cathcart, an accomplished pilot, knows something about adversity. He recalled that getting through flight school wasn’t easy, but once a pilot gets through it, he or she can get complacent, a bit cocky and that’s when problems begin. “So whether it’s a flight plan or a busi-

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Once again, the CSPA midyear meeting is well attended.

ness plan, you are responsible,” he told the audience.“Anticipate everything. It’s about managing risk, planning accordingly and doing everything possible (to succeed).” That’s the tack CSPA took in dealing with complex issues such as TSCA reform, EPA’s Design for the Environment (DfE) program and volatile organic compounds (VOCs). The same can be said about CSPA’s Alliance for Consumer Education (ACE). “We formed a group to talk about how people abuse our products,” he reminded the audience. Now, ACE has partnered with Major League Baseball’s Minnesota Twins happi.com

All photos courtesy of CSPA.

to Strike Out Inhalation Abuse. “Flying isn’t dangerous, crashing is. Make a flight plan and then go,” he concluded. “Sometimes you fly through hell, but you keep flying and you keep going.”

What Makes You Happy? Christopher Gardner knows something about going through hell and he wrote about it in “The Pursuit of Happyness,” his story of struggling as a homeless, single parent, trying to pursue his dream job as a stockbroker. Gardener knows his story isn’t unique in today’s America. June 2011

CSPA

“In the past few years we have created white collar homeless; it wasn’t caused by drugs or alcohol. It was caused by life and sometimes it can be just as lethal,” he told the audience. Gardner entertained the audience with his Horatio Algers story, and provided a sobering message at the same time. His father left the family and his stepfather was abusive. Despite the hardships, his mother, Bettye Jean Gardner, inspired him to be anything he wanted to be. As a sales rep in the computer industry, Gardner dreamed of a job in finance, but spent a year trying to break into the industry. When he finally got his break, he quit his sales job, much to the chagrin of his wife. From there, things only got worse for Gardner, as unpaid parking tickets landed him in jail for 10 days. When he finally got out, his wife and 14-month-old son were gone. Ultimately, he got his son back, but the pair spent more than a year moving from hotels, to boarding houses to the street. Through all the misery, Gardner continued to pursue his dream of a career on Wall Street, but the $1000 monthly paycheck from Dean Witter Reynolds wouldn’t

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CSPA president Chris Cathcart explains some of the pitfalls of being a pilot.

support him, his son or a new wardrobe and throughout the internship, he alternately wore a gray or blue suit. “People would say,‘There’s Chris Gardner. He’s re-enacting the Civil War,” he joked. Ultimately, Gardner took a job with

Bear Stearns & Company and managed to save enough to rent a house in Berkeley. In 1987, Gardner formed his own company, Gardner Rich, and sold it for millions in 2006. Over the years, Gardner received the Father of the Year Award from the NFL (2002), the 25th Annual Humanitarian

Mark Your Calendar for New Horizons 2011, Oct. 16-19 CSPA’s New Horizons 2011, “The Evolving Face of Cleaning in the Early 21st Century,” will be held Oct. 16-19 in Ponte Vedra, FL. Session topics will include: • Retailers’ Goals for Consumer Products, Emerging Packaging Trends—This session will explore some of the major new packaging trends impacting new consumer products including innovative delivery systems, new lightweight and durable packaging materials, sustainable and green packaging solutions and the important role packaging plays in new product innovation. • Shifts in Global Raw Material Supply—This session will shed light on the ever-changing supply and feedstock for raw materials. This will include the growing use of imported raw materials particularly from China and the Pacific Rim in the formulation of consumer products. Also there are shifts in the raw material feedstocks with recent focus on renewable or plant-based feedstock. • What's New in Industry & Academia?—This session will review the newest technologies commercialized or in some cases still under development, which will impact the consumer product formulations of tomorrow. New raw materials revealed by industry and academia offer new and unique properties, which may help improve or lead to the development of new cleaning products for your company. • Emerging Global Marketing Trends—Learn about marketing trends around the world which in many cases in the past have led to marketing strategies adopted in the U.S. This session will include new marketing trends in both developed nations as well as the developing regions of the world, which may provide a fresh perspective and new ideas for marketing innovation. • The Future of Sustainable Cleaning—This session will look at the future of sustainable cleaning as the industry continues to strive to reduce water consumption, raw material usage, heat, and/or excess mechanical energy in the many cleaning applications that affects businesses. Both consumer and institutional sustainable cleaning will be explored and the importance of their role in the future discussed. For those looking further ahead, the 98th CSPA Annual Meeting will take place Dec. 4-8 in Fort Lauderdale, FL. More info: Ann Wheeler, [email protected]; Website: www.cspa.org June 2011

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• CSPA

Christopher Gardner overcame many hurdles in life.

Scalfani provided some insights on everyday products, noting, for example, that the Clorox bleach jug handle scratches his hand every time he picks it up. He also urged the audience to know each retailer and where they stand in terms of price. For example, Bloomingdale’s is the next tier above Macy’s. “Find the reach, but keep it competitive,” he suggested.

Other Sessions

Award and the 2006 Friends of Africa Award, presented by the Los Angeles Commission on Assaults Against Women (LACAAW) and by the Continental Africa Chamber of Commerce, respectively. He currently heads up Christopher Gardner International Holdings and a sequel to“The Pursuit of Happyness” is in the works. Despite his success, Gardner said that his proudest achievement was being able to break the cycle of violence and poverty in his family. “Whatever was a problem for me, will not affect my children,”he told the audience.

Working with Walmart When your employer is the world’s biggest retailer, every supplier wants to work with

you. But Walmart senior product developer Jim Scalfani can pick and choose suppliers as he sees fit. To make sure that your products end up on his short list, Scalfani offered five absolutes that products must pass in order to end up on store shelves. 1. Map to market. Figure out who the competition is, if it is a first to market and how important is the product anyway? 2. Support change with history. Understand why the product makes sense for the retailer and the consumer. 3. Talk to experts. 4. Keep it fresh.“Nobody buys the exact same thing more than two times,” he told the audience. 5. Complete the box; i.e., offer products that pull a room together.

Song Wins Glauberman Scholarship The Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) selected Rennie Song from Plano, TX, as the 23rd recipient of the Murray Glauberman Memorial Scholarship Award. Since the scholarship program began in 1988, CSPA has awarded a total of $180,000 to be used toward the pursuit of a college degree and selected 23 students nationwide to receive the honor. This CSPA-sponsored scholarship, which is awarded to one person annually, provides a high school senior with a four-year, $2,000-

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The CSPA Antimicrobial Division’s midyear session included a presentation by Stephen Tomasino of the U.S. EPA’s Office of Pesticide Program. His office recently hosted CSPA members at its microbiology laboratory, where the two organizations reviewed testing methods such as Use-Dilution Method and OECD Quantitative Method. The two groups are trying to agree on issues such as source of carrier,“the results could be non-reproducible due to the choice of carrier,” explained Tomasino, as well as the preparation and standardization of the inoculum. In an Air Care Division session, Karen Doskow, an industry manager with Kline & Co., reviewed the latest trends impacting the air care category. She noted that during the past decade, Yankee has surpassed S.C. Johnson to become the No. 1 player in the category, which is now in second place. Rounding out the top five players are Bath & Body Works (Limited Brands), Reckitt Benckiser and Procter & Gamble. During the past decade, U.S. air care sales have risen 6% a year to reach $3.3 billion. And

per-year college scholarship. The award of the scholarship recognizes a student whose leadership, extracurricular contributions and accomplishments, in and out of school, has been exemplary. Song, who graduates this month a 4.5 GPA, scored a combined 2370 on her SAT college admissions test. Additionally, she received the White House’s 2010 Presidential Volunteer Service Award, the 2010 AP Scholar with Distinction Award and the 2009 Hugh O’Brian Youth Leadership Award. In the fall she plans to attend Dartmouth College.

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Jue 2011

CSPA

Opening session speakers included (l-r) Chris Cathcart, Christopher Gardner and John Abplanalp.

while candles were the top environmental fragrance choice at the start of the millennium, they’ve seen their share erode as diffuser sales pick up. At the same time, according to Doskow, innovation is driving price points higher. A decade ago, candle prices ranged from $2.99 to $12.50, while diffusers cost $.99 to $5.99. Last year, high-end candles and diffusers could cost as much as $35. Popular scents include apple, green tea and citrus. Although consumer interest in candles has waned, sales still reached $1.45 billion (retail) last year, according to Kline’s research. Yankee remained the No. 1 player in the candle market, followed by Bath & Body Works, S.C. Johnson, Candlelight and Blyth. Doskow noted that all the major players introduced smaller sizes in recent years and that fruit and baking scents were popular in 2010. The big fragrances for 2011 are pomegranate and lemonade, according to Kline data. The biggest news in the segment is Airwick’s return to the category after a five-year absence with its 40hour scented candle collection. Diffuser sales reached $1 billion last year, led by S.C. Johnson, Henkel, Reckitt Benckiser, Bath & Body Works and Procter & Gamble. However, according to Doskow, the popularity of reed diffusers is beginning to wane. Finally, the speaker described room sprays as a declining market, led by S.C. Johnson, Reckitt Benckiser, P&G, Henkel and Bath & Body Works. Overall, Doskow predicted that the air care category will post slower, 2-3% growth in the future, led by direct sales and other new channels of distribution.

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two highest production product categories, with household products reporting a 9.2% increase to more than 1.03 billion units filled. Personal care fillings rose less than 1% to 1.0 billion units. Insect spray fillings increased 10.7% to more than 253 million units, marking the first increase since 2007. “The new report confirms that aerosol products continue to be popular among consumers,” said Cathcart.“This industry delivers to the marketplace a variety of innovative products—from first aid to food products, from air care to automotive care—via this unique packaging form which offers convenience and efficiency.” The survey, which also reports the unit volume of aerosol packaging components manufactured and delivered for domestic use in 2010, as well as estimates for Canadian and Mexican production, has served for 60 years as the primary index of the business strength of the aerosol products industry. Illinois is the aerosol capitol of the United States, producing more than one third of all aerosol products made in the U.S. With strong growth in Mexico and Canada as well as the U.S., CSPA estimates total North American aerosol production in 2010 as 4.227 billion units, another record. North America maintains an approximate one-third market share of global aerosol production.•

Record Aerosol Fillings U.S. aerosol production reached a new high in 2010, according to results of the 60th annual Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) Aerosol Pressurized Products Survey, which was released during the Aerosol Division program. The estimated total units filled in 2010 was 3.745 billion, which establishes the historical high for fillings in the U.S., exceeding by almost 7 million units the 2005 record. Household and personal care products rank as the June 2011

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New Products

JANE IREDALE ROLLS OUT STACKED SET • The My Steppes ($58) all-in-one compact, new from Jane Iredale, contains two lipglosses, a blush, a bronzer and a mirror for effortless touchups on the go, according to the company. The palettes are available in two color combinations— warm and cool. As with My Steppes features lipgloss, Jane Iredale blush, bronzer and more in two p r o d u c t s , select incombinations, Warm and Cool. gredients nourish the skin. The PurePressed Blush and So-Bronze 3 contain pine bark and pomegranate extracts for potent antioxidant and anti-aging effects; while PureGloss for Lips features mint and ginger extracts to naturally plump lips, according to the company. More info: www.janeiredale.com Beyond Coastal Face Stick

Beyond Coastal solid sunscreen.

CND Collaborates With Jason Wu

• Fashion designer Jason Wu collaborated with runway manicure leader CND to introduce a limited edition Jason Wu Collection ($47) that honors iconic women through wearable, timeless shades, according to the company. The set will come with four CND color and one“Effect”that can be 126 • happi

Designer Jason Wu collaborated with CND.

sheen; Brigitte, a warm pink; Sophia, a mushroom taupe and Veronica, an oxblood red. Layer over any of the colors with the Anna Effect that supplies a tweed finish, according to the company. More info: www.cnd.com

grapefruit leaves, where it meets the vibrant cubed pepper and Tonkin musk. Inspired by ancient Cypress comes 03 Century, captivating the senses with silver birch, Cypress and forest mint. The liquid myrrh combines with vetiver, patchouli and moss for a transparent woodsy scent. 04 Petrana’s blooming Black Iris reveals its dark complexion from the foundation of wild orris root and green violet leaf absolute. Herbaceous coriander, spicy pink pepper and deep purple cassis float coalesce into a luminous floral. The 60 hours of burn time will make these signature scents come alive, said the company. More info: www.odinnewyork.com

Tocca Debuts SPF 30+ Multipack

• After last year’s introduction of the SPF 30+ Towelette, Tocca is taking convenient, high performance sun protection to

Odin New York Launches Candle Collection

• Odin New York expanded its beauty

• Beyond Coastal’s new FaceStick ($6.99) targets cyclists, runners, campers and beach-goers. Shaped like a mini-deodorant, the portable sunblock is fragrance-, paraben-, petroleum- and vitamin-A free, according to the company. More info: www.beyondcoastal.com

layered to achieve the designer’s effortless yet elegant nail styles. The set includes Miss Wu, Jason’s signature limestone, warm gray that dries matte with a subtle chrome

and grooming offering with the introduction of candles that mirror their initial fragrances. The debut set of four unisex fragrances ($65/each)—01 Sunda, 02 Owari, 03 Century and 04 Petrana—evoke the exoticism of travel and a modern approach to time-honored fragrance traditions, according to the company. Each candle is unique in its complex structures and distinguished notes. 01 Sunda’s creamy oriental notes of juniper berries and cedar leaves with spicy black pepper linger in its warmth. 02 Owari opens up with rare manand Prestige candle collection darins freshly crushed available at Odin New York. happi.com

Tocca rolled out a SPF 30+ Multipack for 2011.

the next level with its new SPF 30+ Multipack ($24) for Summer 2011. Ideal for the sun savvy goddess in us all, this resealable pouch keeps the Stella fragrance-infused towelettes generously moistened while still boasting a mess-free application perfect for those on the go, according to the company. The formula protects against UVA and UVB rays while leaving skin glistening and delicately fragranced in Tocca’s classic Italian blood orange scent, Stella. The SPF 30+ Multipack contains 10 7”x8” towelettes. Both are available at Sephora and SpaceNK stores nationwide. More info: www.tocca.com/store June 2011

New Products

Bold Blues Next Up at OPI • OPI expands its Shatter line with the addition of three new trendsetting shades: blue, navy and turquoise ($8/each). With nautical hues of cobalt, indigo and sapphire, these blues provide the perfect look for summer nails in one simple step, according to the company. Inspired by graffiti art, OPI’s popular Shatter Shatter leaves behind textured nail polishes a crackled, two-texture finish when has new blue hues. painted over any dry OPI hue. Adding topcoat takes Shatter from matte to glossy in seconds. More info: www.opi.com

June 2011

Mojo Cosmetics Has Moxie

• Mojo Cosmetics are botanically formulated and the components are laser etched aircraft alloy. The Titan ($30) is Mojo’s refillable lipstick and concealer. The outer The Titan by shell is heat/crush resist- Mojo Cosmetics. ant, said the company. More info: www.mojocosmetics.com

CoverGirl Releases Anniversary Compact

• Limited edition color cosmetics are a rising trend in personal care, generating brand buzz while driving sales at the register. CoverGirl is jumping aboard this novel trend with its new CoverGirl Clean limited edition press powder compacts ($6.99),

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available now at grocery and drugstores until supplies last, and at Walmart in June. To celebrate the brand’s golden anniversary, the SKUs are adorned with African-inspired prints. Through CoverGirl’s partnership with Children’s Safe Drinking Water, each limited edition Clean compact purchased provides a week’s Limited edition comworth of clean drink- pacts raise money for ing water for a child clean drinking water. in Africa, for a donation of up to $50,000, according to the company. The CoverGirl Limited Edition Clean

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New Products

Compact products are available in Sensitive, Normal, and Oil Control Africa-inspired prints, including Cheetah, Zebra and Snake Skin. More info: www.covergirl.com

Yankee Candle Celebrates America

The Yankee Candle Company has rolled out a new limited edition Patriotic Candle Collection. Offerings include God Bless America (cooked apples, cinnamon, and brown sugar), Let Freedom Ring (cedar and redwood softened by wild petals and vanilla), Stars and Stripes (cinnamon and

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Salon Grafix Turns Up the Heat

• Salon Grafix has added new 450 Maximum Heat Protect Spray ($7.99), which the company says is the first 450° thermal protection spray in the industry. The formulation includes a unique and patented polymer that delivers excellent hold and conditioning effects to hair. It significantly minimizes damage caused by hot irons that can reach up to 400-450°F, according to the company. More info: www.salongrafix.com 450 Maximum Heat Protect Spray

Hydrolyte Moisture Infusion Facial New at Murad Spa

All-American candle collection new for Summer.

Murad’s new Hydrolyte Moisture Infusion Facial is a signature spa service that is said to provide an intense burst of hydration and vital nutrients. Formulated with new Osmolyte Technology and hyaluronic filling spheres to plump and firm skin, the Hydrolyte Moisture Infusion Facial doubles skin hydration for up to eight hours while diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, according to the company. Osmolyte Technology is a proprietary formulation exclusive to the Murad brand that consists of three separate compounds working together to increase hydration. Osmolytes, yeast amino acids and trehalose blend together to optimize water balance, helping ward off dehydration that results in a supple, hydrated complexion. More info: www.MuradSpa.com

• baking spices) and America the Beautiful, a triple layer tumbler candle featuring macIntosh, vanilla cupcake and blueberry scone. Each retails for $25.99. More info: www.yankeecandle.com

Acai Body Care Formulations at Nature’s Gate • Nature’s Gate has added three new antioxidant-infused acai products to its Classics Body Care lineup. Acai Body Care—body wash, liquid soap and body lotion—features nourishing, antioxidantrich berries, nut oils and butters that defend skin against drying, damaging conditions while restoring moisture and softness. Acai extract and oil deliver a dose of antioxidants, while cupuacu butter softens skin. More info: www.natures-gate.com

• Biotech Medical, Inc. has introduced

New variation of body care from Nature’s Gate.

all natural cleaning products called SpectraSan Hungry Enzymes. The range in-

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New SpectaSan Hungry Enzymes Cleaners Are DfE Approved

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cludes a Pet Stain & Odor Eraser, Spa & Whirlpool Cleaner, Mold & Mildew Stain Cleaner, No-Rinse Floor Cleaner, All-Purpose Cleaner & Degreaser, Glass & Stainless Steel Cleaner and a Medical Instrument Spray and Medical Enzyme Detergent. SpectraSan "Hungry Enzyme" cleaners have been granted the DfE seal of approval by the EPA. More info: www.spectrasan.com

DNA Damage Control Sun Protection Range

PhotoMedex’s new DNA Damage Control is billed as a line of treatment sunscreens that feature advanced photoprotection with DNA repair technology. Formulated by and marketed under the company’s Neova brand, DNA Damage Control sunscreens have patent-pending formulas that use liposomes to deliver DNA repair enzymes to the cellular level of the skin, hyper-targeting the site of the DNA injury. In clinical studies, DNA repair enzymes were shown to reduce DNA damage by 45% and increase UV protection by 300% in just one hour, according to the company. The range includes DNA Damage Control Everyday SPF 43, DNA Damage Control Active SPF 45, and DNA Damage Control Sheer. More info: www.NextDerm.com.

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Say ‘I Do’ to Color With Essie Collection

• A wedding is the ultimate reflection of the bride—so why hide behind the ordinary? The Bridal 2011 Collection from Essie was created for those who want to show off their personality as much as their ring, according to the company. The Essie Bridal Collection ($8/each) mixes the classics with the current trends and is comprised of three elegantly soft and neutral shades and one true red. With shades like Borrowed and Blue, a pale pastel; First Dance, a provocative red; Better Together, a perfect sheer; and the newest nude, Made to Honor, there’s something for everyone in this new range. More info: www.essie.com• June 2011

Packaging News

M&H PLASTICS MOVES INTO THE FAST LANE • M&H Plastics recently worked with Car Masutra on its Body Repair Kit of male grooming products designed for the man who loves his car. The imaginative set is packaged in a distinctive black and white checkered flag package, according to the company. The chunky HDPE bottles are part of M&H’s standard portfolio of products. The metal caps featuring a gear stick graphic on the top give the whole kit a powerful sporty character, according to the company. More info: www.mhplastics.com

and succeeded in creating a highly recognizable line: “L’uomo.” High-end accessories, such as a shiny silver UV-metallized pump with a white actuator and a shiny silver metalized over cap, complete the look. More info: www.lumson.com

McKernan Packaging Adds Complete Brushed Silver Jar Set to Wholesale Line

• McKernan Packaging is adding frosted PETG complete jar HDPE bottles from M&H Plastics.

ABA Packaging Expands Selection With New SR Packaging Agreement

• ABA Packaging Corp. recently inked an agreement to represent SR Packaging Inc. of Taichung, Taiwan and its lines of products and services exclusively in North America. According to the company, ABA’s product offerings now include a large variety of high quality and cost effective stock and custom PET bottles, PE ABA Packaging is representing SR Pack- tubes, pumps, caps and unique jar packages from aging in North America. SR Packaging. “We’re not just about fragrance and treatment glass products anymore,” said Charles Marchese, vice president of sales. More info: www.abapackaging.com Arval Taps Lumson For Male Cosmetic Line

sets to its wholesale line. These jar sets come complete with a brushed silver closure and are available in 15ml, 30ml and 60ml sets. These high-end personal care and cosmetic jar sets will be part of McKernan wholesale stock line and have no lead times as they are in stock and ready to ship. Frosted PETG complete jar sets More info: http://mckernan.com from McKernan Packaging.

Fusion Packaging Wins IoPP Award • Fusion Packaging has received the 2011 Institute of Packaging Professionals (IoPP) AmeriStar Award for its Airless Square Twist Up bottle. The package was chosen from more than 100 entries in the health and beauty category. A panel of judges reviewed packages in more than 17 categories, basing their decisions on package innovation, product protection, economics, package performance, structural design, product image, shelf impact, marketing appeal and environmental influence. The Square Twist Up airless bottle was designed and engineered to include a new and innovative square design with a twist to actuate mechanism and pop up actuator to dispense product while providing a unique look and feel. The sleek, modern design eliminates the need for an overcap and prevents spills and leaks in its closed and locked position. •

• To launch its new men’s cosmetic line, Arval chose innovative cosmetic packaging designed, developed and manufactured by Lumson. According to the company, TAG— which stands for Techno Airless Glass— blends together the beauty and prestige of a glass bottle with all the technical and functional advantages of an airless system. Arval tapped Lumson To print Arval’s logo and graphic design, for its new men’s cosLumson used 3 passages of screen printing metics line. June 2011

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Eastern Aerosol Association Plans Golf Outing Eastern Aerosol Association’s Annual Golf Outing will be held at Crystal Springs Resort in Hamburg, NJ on Aug. 9. The event will begin with registration and lunch, followed by golf, dinner and prizes. For more information, contact EAA Golf Chair Joe Nelson, Aptar at [email protected] or www.easternaerosol.com.

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Meetings

HBA GLOBAL EXPO SET FOR NYC JUNE 28-30 June 9-10: Sustainable Fragrances, Crystal Gateway Marriott, Arlington, VA. More info: www.sustainablefragrances.com

June 10-12: Aesthetic Plastic Surgery and Anti Aging Medicine: The Next Generation Symposium, Waldorf Astoria, New York, NY.

Major Meetings at a Glance June 28-30: HBA Global Expo, Jacob Javits Center, New York, NY. More info: www.hbaexpo.com

Sept. 15-17: Florida Chapter, Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Sunscreen Symposium, Disney’s Yacht and Beach Club, Walt Disney World, Orlando, FL.

More info: www.apssny.org

More info: www.flscc.org/sunscreensymposium.html

June 13-16: Private Label Manufacturers Association (PLMA) Executive Education Program, St. Joseph’s University, Philadelphia, PA.

Oct. 25-26: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) California Suppliers’ Day, Long Beach, CA.

More info: www.plma.com

June 14-16: World of Wipes 2011, Grand Hyatt Hotel, Atlanta, GA. More info: www.inda.org

More info: www.caliscc.org

Dec. 4-8: Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) 98th Annual Meeting, Marriott Harbor Beach Resort, Fort Lauderdale, FL. More info: www.cspa.org

Dec. 8-9: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Annual Meeting, New York Hilton, New York, NY.

June 16-18: Beauty Eurasia, Tuyap Exhibition Center, Istanbul, Turkey.

More info: www.scconline.org

More info: www.beautyeurasia.com

2012 Jan. 30-Feb. 4: The American Cleaning Institute (ACI) Annual Meeting, Grand Lakes Marriott, Orlando, FL.

June 20: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Golf Outing, Colonia, NJ. More info: www.cibsonline.com

June 21-23: Annual Green Chemistry Conference, Capital Hilton Hotel, Washington, D.C.

More info: www.cleaninginstitute.org

Feb. 22-24: The Personal Care Product Council, Annual Meeting, The Ritz-Carlton, Naples, FL. More info: www.personalcarecouncil.org

April 17-19: In-Cosmetics 2012, Hall 2, Gran Via, Fira Barcelona, Spain.

More info: www.gcande.org

More info: www.in-cosmetics.com

June 21-23: World Conference on Oilseed Processing, Fats & Oils Processing, Biofuels & Applications, Hilton Izmir, Turkey.

May 7-10: Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) Midyear Meeting, Chicago Marriott Downtown, Chicago.

More info: www.aocs.org/goto/Turkey2011

June 22: Women in Flavor and Fragrance Commerce (WFFC) Woman of the Year Dinner, The Chart House, Pier D-T Lincoln Harbor, Weehawken, NJ.

More info: www.cspa.org

May 31-June 1: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Annual Scientific Seminar 2012, Charleston Marriott, Charleston, SC. More info: www.scconline.org

Oct. 15-18: International Federation of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) 27th Congress, South Africa. More info: www.ifscc2012.co.za

More info: www.wffc.org

June 23-24: MakeUp in Paris, Paris, France. More info: Beauteam, Tel: +33-1-42-73-96-61, E-mail: [email protected]

June 28-30: HBA Global Expo, Jacob Javits Center, New York, NY. More info: www.hbaexpo.com

June 29: 8th Annual ICMAD CITY Awards, New York, NY. More info: www.icmad.org

July 14: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and 130 • happi

Suppliers (CIBS) Summer Luncheon, Central Park Boathouse, New York, NY.

dalay Bay Convention Center, Las Vegas, NV.

More info: www.cibsonline.com

More info: www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

July 16-18: Day Spa Association ProKnowledge Workshops, Crowne Plaza and Suites, Minneapolis, MN.

Aug. 10: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Networking Luncheon, The Manhattan Club at Rosie O’Grady’s, New York, NY.

More info: www.proknowledgeworkshops.com

July 31-Aug. 2: Cosmoprof North America 2011, Cosmoprof North America, Manhappi.com

More info: www.cibsonline.com

Aug. 13-15: Day Spa Association ProJune 2011

Meetings

Knowledge Workshops, Wyndham Indianapolis West, Indianapolis, IN. More info: www.proknowledgeworkshops.com

Sept. 12-14: Beyond Beauty Paris, Porte de Versailles, France. More info: www.beyondbeautyparis.com

Sept. 13-15: The American Cleaning Institute (ACI) Fall Meeting, Washington DC. More info: www.cleaninginstitute.org

Walt Disney World, Orlando, FL. More info: www.flscc.org/ sunscreensymposium.html

Sept. 21: Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) Newsmaker Forum, A Conversation with Andrea Jung of Avon, The Harmonie Club, New York City. More info: www.cew.org

Sept. 21: HBA Global Virtual Trade Show: Re-Connect. More info: Kevin Roach, [email protected], www.hbaexpo.com

Sept. 14: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Networking Luncheon, The Manhattan Club at Rosie O’Grady’s, New York, NY.

Sept. 24-26: Outlook Personal Care Conference, Budapest, Hungary.

More info: www.cibsonline.com

More info: www.edana.org

Sept. 14-15: MakeUp in New York, Studio 450, New York, NY.

Sept. 24-26: Day Spa Association ProKnowledge Workshops, Sheraton Airport Hotel, Portland, OR.

More info: Beauteam, Tel: +33-1-42-73-96-61, E-mail: [email protected]

Sept. 15-17: Florida Chapter, Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Sunscreen Symposium, Disney’s Yacht and Beach Club,

June 2011

More info: www.dayspaassociation.com

Oct. 4: The Personal Care Product Council, Emerging Issues Conference, Le Merigot, Santa Monica, CA.

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More info: www.personalcarecouncil.org

Oct. 5-7: Cleaning Products 2011, Washington Marriott, Washington DC More info: www.cleaningproductsconference.com

Oct. 12: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Networking Luncheon, The Manhattan Club at Rosie O’Grady’s, New York, NY. More info: www.cibsonline.com

Oct. 16-19: Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA), New Horizons 2011, Ponte Vedra, FL. More info: www.cspa.org

Oct. 17-21: 14th AOCS Latin American Congress and Exhibition on Fats & Oils, The Hilton, Cartagena, Columbia. More info: www.aocs.org

Oct. 18-21: ISSA/Interclean North America, Las Vegas Convention Center, Las Vegas, NV. More info: www.issa.com •

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Supplier’s Corner

A LOW-COST COMPLETE CONDITIONING BASE FROM INOLEX •Hair care formulators can now benefit from Inolex’s new Kerabase LC for making low-cost, high performing hair conditioners. It is a pre-blend system that yields highly stable formulas with the application properties desired by consumers, according to the company. Kerabase LC allows customizable products with“one-pot”production. Simply add water and emollient as well as fragrance and actives and your work is done, according to the company. It uses amidoamine conditioners, avoiding the irritation and environmental problems associated with quats. It is pre-neutralized, making it much easier for formulators and manufacturers to achieve their goals. More info: www.inolex.com

lation of the epidermal skin pH gradient and its implication on the skin’s barrier homeostasis, according to the company. Studies have shown that people with skin barrier deficiencies, such as sensitive skin and atopic dermatitis, have a higher skin pH. This new ingredient regulates the skin pH resulting in a decrease in the sensitivity and reactivity of the skin and improves the skin’s barrier integrity and function. Caresoft contains the actives obtained from the Curculigo orchioides rhizome, an herbaceous tuberous plant widely distributed in India with rootstock bearing several fleshy lateral roots (rhizomes). Centerchem, Inc. is the exclusive North American distributor. More info: www.centerchem.com

Sustainability and Wellness For Color Cosmetics

Ashland Unveils Revamped Website

For more than 60 years, Arkema has been developing high performance polymers from bio-sourced materials. The company is expanding its ultra-fine powder range with Orgasol Green Touch, 100% derived from renewable raw materials, according to the company. Inspired from the key principles of green chemistry, this new texture powder features excellent functional and sensory performance. Perfectly suited to the pressed powder application, it combines strong binding power and very even texturing with comfort and convenience of use for a natural and even complexion. The Orgasol Green Touch life cycle starts with the castor bean plant named Ricinus communis. Castor oil is extracted from the seeds and used as starting material for further transformation into ultra-fine polyamide 11 powder. More info: www.arkema.com

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Caresoft Targets Sensitive Skin • Caresoft is the most recent launch from Provital Group designed to improve sensitive skin conditions through the regu132 • happi

• Ashland Inc launched its newly designed website, www.ashland.com, with many significant enhancements to make it simpler and more useful, according to the company. At its core, the new site features expanded product information with easy access to Ashland’s broad portfolio of specialty chemical products. It’s not just about products, however. It’s the people of Ashland, their talents and dedication that also come alive in video examples that show customers discussing the advantages of working with Ashland, said the company. The new website makes it easy to conduct business with Ashland around the world. Expansive and readily available information for contacting sellers, customer service agents, chemists, applications specialists and other representatives in more than 100 countries is easily accessed, along with tools for posing questions. Ashland-featured news is also posted on the home page and RSS feeds are available so visitors can stay up-to-date on Ashland activities. More info: www.ashland.com happi.com

Beauty from the Garden At Symrise

• Cosmetic products that contain active ingredients from botanical sources are still very much in demand among consumers. But popular fruits like pomegranate are not the only things with a positive effect; different kinds of vegetables can also have a meaningful impact on wellbeing and beauty. With its new Superveggies product portfolio, Symrise is now expanding its range of natural active ingredients for cosmetics. The Superveggies line allows formulators to take advantage of the healthy properties of asparagus, broccoli and other vegetables. These liquid- and water-soluble substances are ideal for many cosmetic products such as shower gels, shampoos and face creams. The Superveggies range is Symrise’s newest addition to its successful Actipone series, which is based on natural ingredients. More info: www.symrise.com

Resistem Is New From Sederma

• Sederma’s new Resistem is positioned as a high tech anti-aging ingredient, which mimics the natural hormetic action of defense. Resistem is able to reproduce a hormetic response in the skin cells that develops a genuine defense system in skin to act as an anti-aging“bodyguard”of the skin. In vivo studies demonstrated its ability to soothe the skin, reduce redness, improve the evenness of the complexion and restore its natural glow. The skin feels appeased and reveals a much fresher look, according to the company. According to Sederma, Resistem is produced by plant cell culture, a technology that is an inexhaustible source of metabolites of interest and provides numerous benefits pertaining to sustainability, safety, quality and sourcing. More info: (33) 134841010, [email protected], www.sederma.fr. In the U.S., [email protected], www.crodausa.com • June 2011

Industry News

INNOVATIVE NATURAL INGREDIENTS FROM EXTRACTS & INGREDIENTS • Cosmetic chemists from throughout the Northeastern U.S. attended a cosmetics seminar sponsored by Extracts & Ingredients in April to learn more about several naturally-derived raw materials that can help formulators create novel products. For example, Kalident (calcium hydroxyapatite) provides a range of benefits in oral hygiene. It imparts natural remineralization of subsurface and dental enamel, removes plaque without being abrasive, whitens enamel without relying on chemical and abrasive artificial treatment, repairs and reverses dental microlesions and reduces dental hypersensitivity. Another functional hydroxyapatite, Apalight, has applications in sun care formulations. This skin-friendly, micro-dispersed mineral active enhances UV protection with a performance that is comparable or even superior to TiO2, according to the company. Moreover, it imparts soft-focus effects to reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Extracts & Ingredients also offers Kalinat (sodium DNA), an anti-wrinkle active that increases skin moisture levels, elasticity and skin thickness, while reducing the appearance of wrinkles. For those interested in formulating hair loss treatments, there’s Stimucap, a material derived from conjugated linoleic acid, glutathione and sodium DNA. In a 30-day trial involving 30 volunteers, Stimucap outperformed Minoxidil in hair resistance and hair loss tests. At the same time, Stimucap was well-tolerated by test subjects. Unique Emulsifiers • For those looking for functional ingredients for their personal care formulations, Extracts & Ingredients offers the Olivoil family of products, which includes surfactants and emulsifiers, as well as two actives (Olivoil PCA and olive milk). The emulsifier is compatible with vegetable oils, mineral oils, esters, silicones, sunscreens, June 2011

pigments and a wide range of active ingredients. At 3-5% use levels, it creates a fluid emulsion, and at 5-10% it creates a thick emulsion. At the same time, it leaves a smooth, soft skin feel; improves skin compactness; reduces redness of irritated skin, reduces TEWL and increases elasticity, according to the company. Olivoil Avenate surfactant (INCI: Potassium olivoyl hydrolyzed oat protein) is PEG-free, 100% vegetal, non-irritating to skin and eyes and highly biodegradable. The material contains oat, rather than wheat, protein to impart a silky feel on skin. More info: Extracts & Ingredients, Union, NJ, Tel: 908-688-9009; Website: www.morretec.com

SC Johnson’s Fortaleza Hall Earns LEED Gold Certification • SC Johnson’s Fortaleza Hall in Racine, WI has earned a Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Gold Certification in New Construction from the U.S.

Fortaleza Hall

Green Building Council. The company designed and built Fortaleza Hall, which opened in January 2010. The space, which honors the late Sam Johnson, the fourth generation leader of the company and chairman emeritus, offers visitors a chance to learn more about the SC Johnson company through displays and memorabilia and serves as The Commons for SC Johnson employees, offering amenities like dining, concierge service, company happi.com

store, bank and fitness center. It was designed by London-based Foster + Partners. “Sustainability was a priority in building Fortaleza Hall, and we’re extremely honored to announce this LEED Gold recognition as Fortaleza Hall begins its second year of operation,” said Kelly M. Semrau, SVP-global corporate affairs, communication and sustainability. “Our employees and visitors from our local community and beyond have had an opportunity to experience and learn from the many green features, and the innovative design, of Fortaleza Hall.” Fortaleza Hall earned multiple credits in six categories in the certification process (Sustainable Sites, Water Efficiency, Energy and Atmosphere, Materials and Resources, Indoor Environmental Quality, and Innovation and Design). Materials and design elements included low VOC paint, stains and varnishes; regionally-sourced natural stone; oculus glass/glazing to minimize the impact of solar radiation; recycled material flooring, Forest Stewardship Council wood; low waste appliances/systems; and water efficient fixtures including rainwater returns. “While we’re continuously working to green all our operations, Fortaleza Hall gave us the chance to design a sustainable structure from the ground up,”said Semrau. “We’re pleased that our SC Johnson family and visitors can enjoy this addition to our Racine, WI headquarters.”

Wacker BioSolutions Names Brenntag a Distribution Partner

Wacker Chemical Corp. has named Brenntag Specialties, Inc. (BSI) the distribution partner for its Wacker BioSolutions Division Cavamax cyclodextrin-based personal care products. According to Christoph Winterhalter, Wacker BioSolutions’ vice president-Americas, and Ted Davlantes, Wacker Chemical

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Industry News

Corporation director, distribution management, serving the personal care industry through the assignment of BSI corresponds with the company’s ongoing improvement process for matching customer needs to timely delivery and service solutions. Specifically, Davlantes said Brenntag’s professional reputation and strong track record serving other Wacker distributor partner needs were key in making the assignment.

• The

United Way Honors Procter & Gamble

United Way has honored Procter & Gamble (P&G) with two Summit awards for the company and its employees’ volunteer and community impact efforts. “Procter & Gamble is taking bold action to improve lives,”said Brian Gallagher, president and chief executive officer of United Way Worldwide. “Whether it’s providing grants for early childhood education, significant cash and product donations or the thousands of hours employees volunteer every year, P&G is strengthening communities and helping millions of children around the world.” P&G and its employees demonstrated their commitment to touch and improve lives by contributing time, cash and product to United Way organizations around the world last year, including raising almost $16 million for local communities through employee campaigns. In concert with the company’s Live, Learn and Thrive program that helps children get off to a healthy start, receive access to education, and build skills for life, P&G helped expand the reach of United Way organizations around the world.” For instance, P&G provided support for the creation of United Way chapters in Panama and Honduras, and supported on-going efforts in Mexico, Chile, Brazil, Canada and the U.S. Through efforts like these, P&G has helped more than 210 million children globally since 2007–on its way to reaching 300 million by 2012. P&G also provided support to United Way of Greater Cincinnati’s Winning Beginnings and Success By 6 early child-

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hood education programs and the Born Learning program in Latin America. In addition to employee financial donations, more than 5,000 P&Gers volunteered more than 37,000 hours to United Way agencies last year, including more than 145 team volunteer events, a 453% increase over the previous year. “At P&G, our purpose of touching and improving lives, now and for generations to come compels us to make a difference in the communities in which we live and work,” said Bob McDonald, president and chief executive officer, Procter & Gamble. “We are proud of this recognition from United Way as it shows we are bringing our purpose to life in everything we do.”

with their services.” “There are not words to express our appreciation for Bosley Professional Strength’s sponsorship of the 2011 Beauty Drive and the Beauty Bus Foundation,” said Jaclyn Rosenson, Beauty Bus program manager. “Bosley Professional Strength’s Beauty Drive sponsorship helped us raise 60% more than we raised last year. The event could not have happened without their support, and we are so grateful.” On April 3, Bosley Professional Strength also donated product for Walk MS, for which Beauty Bus served as a sponsor. More info: www.bosleypro.com

Bosley Pro Strength Joins The Beauty Bus

Coty Donates $400K to North Carolina Storm Relief Efforts • Coty is donating $400,000 to relief or-

the Beauty Bus Foundation’s 2nd Annual Beauty Drive, which took place on April 17. As a sponsor, Bosley Professional Strength helped raise more than $100,000. More than 350 people attended the event at Hollywood’s House of Blues, which was transformed into a working salon, complete with straightening, curling and shimmer treatments, manicures, makeup application and much more. Notable attendees included beauty industry icon Ann Mincey, the event’s honoree. Mincey, a Redken 5th Avenue spokesperson and Beauty Bus board member, received the first-ever Lifetime Achievement Award for her commitment to making a difference in the lives of patients and caregivers. “The outreach, support, and enthusiasm for making ‘everyday a beautiful day’ for those struggling with a chronic illness or their care takers was so amazing at the Beauty Drive this year,”said Bosley Professional Strength president Eric McLemore. “Whether awareness builds because of the founders of Beauty Bus, a reality TV show, a product company’s support, cosmetologists volunteering their time or a beauty industry icon supporting the cause, I couldn’t be happier or prouder to see Beauty Bus grow and reach more people

ganizations helping North Carolina recover from the devastation of violent storms and tornados. Coty Inc., one of the largest employers in the Sanford, NC community, is donating funds to the Triangle Chapter of the American Red Cross and Lee County United Way to assist with both immediate and longterm recovery efforts. In addition, Coty is providing support to employees who have suffered major property damage from the tornados. No fatalities or major injuries were reported among the company’s Sanford, NC plant’s employees. The plant itself did not suffer property damage. “Our thoughts and prayers go out to those who suffered because of these violent storms,”said Bernd Beetz, Coty’s CEO.“We are concerned about the welfare of our employees and all those living in the Sanford community and continue to monitor the situation closely. We will continue to support local relief efforts as the situation continues to evolve.” Coty has set up an internal structure to provide round-the-clock support to its employees and their families. Employees are also working closely with local officials and other relief organizations.

• Bosley Professional Strength sponsored

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Industry News

Grape •

Flax •

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Jojoba

A

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R

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Olive

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June 2011

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of Perfumers (ASP) recognizes the accomplishments of manufacturing companies for fragrance excellence with the Perfumers Choice Awards. At the 2011 Perfumers Choice Awards event, which was held at May 11 at the City Winery in New York City, Symrise won awards in five categories: Best Classic fine fragrance—Women’s, Best Hair Care fragrance specialty, Best Shower & Body fragrance (mass), Best Shower & Body fragrance (specialty) and Best fragrance in a challenging base. The perfumers behind these successes are Dirk Braun, David Apel, Nathalie Ananou and Nathalie Benareau. They were supported by a team of skilled evaluators— Barbara Messina, Janice Bloom, Chantell Gerena and Jennifer Schneider. “It was a proud moment for us. The awards symbolize our dedication and commitment to create best-in-class fragrances. We hope these fragrances will contribute

Hazelnut

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Symrise Nets Five ASP Awards • Every two years, the American Society

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Parsley • Peanut • Pumpkin

exclusive agreement with Matsumoto Trading Co., Ltd. to distribute the company’s unique line of bio-based specialty polymers to the personal care industry in Japan. The companies presented together at the Cosmetics Ingredients & Technology Exhibition (CITE) at Pacifico Yokohama in Japan in May. Under the agreement, Matsumoto will offer Sylvaclear, Slyvasol and Uniclear specialty polymers, Arizona Chemical’s patented products that provide a broad range of functionality in personal care and cosmetics applications. “We are impressed with Matsumoto Trading’s long and distinguished history of achieving customer satisfaction by linking the latest technology and knowledge in the field with the development of advanced consumer products,” said Tom Fontana, director of Specialty Products for Arizona Chemical. More info: www.arizonachemical.com

•

• Arizona Chemical has entered into an

According to Daub, the awards “demonstrate our ability to combine creativity with consumer knowledge, innovation and technical know-how. Innovation and consumer focus are the key pillars of our strategy, enabling us to attain these successes.” •

to product success in the marketplace. Congratulations to our perfumers, evaluation teams and our brand partners for their extraordinary creativity, passion and efforts,” said Achim Daub, member of the Symrise executive board and global president scent and care.

Almond • Apricot

Arizona Chemical Taps Matsumoto in Japan

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SCC News

NYSCC’S JULY 29 GOLF OUTING TO BE HELD ON TWO COURSES • The New York Chapter of the SCC will hold its 18th annual golf outing Friday, July 29 at Crystal Springs Golf Course in Hamburg, NJ. This year, NYSCC has made two courses available for the first 288 golfers. The cost is $180 per person, which includes 18 holes with carts, lunch, cocktail hour, dinner, awards, prizes and gifts. Dinner only tickets are also available. The deadline to register is July 1. Nonrefundable payments should be sent to Debbie McCarthy, 28 Joyce St., Toms River, NJ 08753 or register online by credit card at www.nyscc.org. Foursome reservations must include the names of the entire foursome. More info: www.nyscc.org

A Cosmetic Chemist’s Guide To Product Development

• The Society of Cosmetic Chemists will hold a course called the “Cosmetic Chemist’s Guide to Product Development,” July 14 at the Sheraton Newark Airport Hotel, Newark, NJ. This course—which will cover the basic process of generating ideas for new cosmetics, developing them into functional products, and scaling them up to be sold commercially—would be useful for cosmetic formulators, quality control scientists, regulatory scientists, marketing and product development professionals and others who are interested in the process of taking an idea from a brainstorm session to a store shelf. The instructor is Perry Romanowski, vice president of Brains Publishing, which specializes in the creation of information products including websites, traditional books, ebooks, audio and video focusing on science and its application to the real world. The cost of the course is $350 for SCC members, $475 for non-members and $200 for students before June 30, or $400, $525 and $225, respectively, after that date. More info: www.scconline.org 136 • happi

SCC Journal Opens Digital Archive

• The Society of Cosmetic Chemists has opened a digital archive, making all SCC Journal issues going back to the very first issue digitized and fully searchable. While most of the archive is available to the public, only members can access issues from 2008 forward. To access the memberonly issues, users will need to input a user name (first initial and last name all lower case) and password (SCC member identification number which is found on the SCC membership card). More info: www.journal.scconline.org

Workshop on Skin Aging And Inflammation

• The New York Chapter of the SCC will SCC Meetings

June 13: Carolina Chapter Social Event at Durham Bulls Baseball, Durham, NC. More info: www.carolinascc.org June 13-14: Carolina Chapter, CEP Skin Moisturization and Emolliency by Vispi Kanga, Durham, NC More info: www.carolinascc.org June 15: Mid-Atlantic Chapter Charity Event, Richmond AA Baseball Game. More info: www.midatlantiscc.org June 16: Southwest Chapter ASRS Mary Kay Tour, Dallas, TX. More info: www.swscc.org June 27: Twin Cities Annual Golf Event. More info: www.tccscc.org July 12: Midwest Chapter Golf Outing. More info: www.midwestscc.org July 14: St. Louis Chapter Technical Meeting (Dinner). More info: www.scconline.org July 19: Ontario 11th Annual Golf Tournament, Caledon Woods Golf Club. More info: www.ontarioscc.org. July 29: New York Chapter Golf Outing,

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hold a workshop on “Skin Aging and Inflammation—Does One Condition Lead to Another,” Aug. 19 at Farleigh Dickinson University in Teaneck, NJ. This all-day course is designed to go through the major changes occurring in the different layers of the skin when it ages, the types of skin inflammatory reactions, and the possible link between the two. The agenda includes a look a basic structure and properties of skin layers, major structural and biochemical changes occurring with skin aging, testing methodologies, advanced glycation as well as clock genes and p53 and other markers. The instructor is Nava Dayan, Ph.D. The cost is $25 for members and $150 for non-members. More info: www.nyscc.org •

Crystal Springs, Hamburg, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org Sept. 13: Midwest Chapter Scientific Dinner and Education Meeting. More info: www.midwestscc.org Sept. 14: New York Chapter Monthly Meeting, Pleasantdale Chateau, West Orange, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org Sept. 15-17: Florida Chapter 2011 Sunscreen Symposium, Disney Yacht & Beach Club, Orlando, FL. More info: www.flscc.org Sept. 15: Southwest Chapter Meeting. More info: www.scscc.org Sept. 20: Twin Cities Chapter Continuing Education Course on Advanced Emulsions, Bloomington, MN. More info: www.tccscc.org Sept. 22: NYSCC Culinary Event, I.C.E. New York. More info: www.nyscc.org Sept. 22: Ontario Chapter Education Day, Vaughn, ON. More info: www.ontarioscc.org

June 2011

Financial News

P&G’S Q3 EARNINGS JUMP, BUT COSTS DIM OUTLOOK Procter & Gamble Co. lowered its earnings outlook for the year due to fastrising costs for raw materials and fuel and the still-sluggish economies in the U.S. and other developed countries. The maker of Tide detergent and Crest toothpaste said that profits and sales rose in its third quarter, led by sales in emerging markets. The company also announced plans for more price increases. P&G, based in Cincinnati, said net income was $2.87 billion, up 11% over last year. P&G reported double-digit sales increases in Asia, with strong sales for Pantene shampoo there and in Brazil, and for Gillette razors in countries such as India, areas the company is increasingly relying on for sales growth. But developed market sales, which still account for two-thirds of P&G’s business, continued to be nearly flat. “The results show that consumers in developed markets are struggling,”Bob McDonald, chairman and CEO, told reporters. “They’re struggling with higher gasoline prices ... which is causing them to make choices.” McDonald said P&G is counting on offering more value and innovation, such as Tide Pods, concentrated laundry detergent tablets it will roll out in North America this July (see p. 61 in this issue), to keep consumers buying its big-name brands instead of trading down to store brands or other cheaper competitors. The world’s largest consumer products maker and its competitors face rising costs for key raw materials such as pulp and resin and fuel and have begun testing household tolerance for higher prices. Jon Moeller, chief financial officer, said P&G’s commodity costs are increasing even faster than expected earlier, now estimated at $1.8 billion higher for the year, up from $1 billion projected in February, and were more than double what was expected in the third quarter.

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June 2011

P&G increased prices in the quarter on Gillette blades and razors and just hiked prices on Pampers diapers and wipes as well as Charmin toilet paper and Bounty paper towels. Moeller said pulp costs are up 10% for the paper-related products. He said diesel oil is up 25%, adding to transportation costs, while resin used in packaging rose 15%. P&G will raise prices this summer on Head & Shoulders shampoo and Cascade dishwashing detergent, among other items. The company also said it is trying to reduce costs with less packaging, alternative materials and more efficient energy use. Moeller told analysts on a conference call that Middle East turmoil and the Japanese earthquake also hurt sales in those markets, although P&G operations are continuing as normal. For overall sales, P&G expects growth of 4-5%; analysts project about 3% for the year, to $82.02 billion.

Nu Skin Expects Q1 Revenue Will Be Up 9%

• Nu Skin Enterprises, Inc. said it expects to exceed previous company guidance by posting first-quarter revenue of approximately $395 million, a 9% improvement over the prior-year period. Revenue is expected to benefit approximately 5% due to foreign currency fluctuations. “We are starting the year off strong with record first-quarter revenue, driven largely by impressive gains in our emerging markets,” said Truman Hunt, president and chief executive officer. “Our performance this quarter is particularly impressive when taking into consideration last year's firstquarter launch of ageLOC Transformation, which contributed to 23% growth. In addition, we estimate the natural disasters in Japan had a negative first-quarter impact of approximately $5 million in revenue and $.01 to earnings per share. happi.com

“Our overall geographic diversity contributed to the impressive quarter. Revenue was particularly strong in mainland China and South Asia/Pacific, which generated local currency growth rates of approximately 45% and 30%, respectively. South Korea and Europe were also solid performers in the first quarter. “We anticipate that our U.S. business will report a decline of approximately 10% partially due to a difficult comparison with the prior-year launch of ageLOC Transformation, while Japan revenue is expected to decline 7%, which includes the negative impact from the natural disasters,” Hunt continued. “As the Nu Skin global family rallies around our friends and colleagues in Japan, we have gained an even greater appreciation for the resiliency of the people of this great nation. We have been inspired by our Japanese sales leaders as they courageously respond to this tragedy. As a company, we believe that the natural disasters will slow, but will not derail, our turnaround efforts in Japan.” Hunt reiterated 2011 guidance of $1.60 to $1.63 billion in revenue with earnings per share in the $2.25 to $2.35 range, or $1.92 to $2.02 when including charges related to the Japan Customs decision. “We estimate the natural disasters will have an annual negative impact on Japan sales of 5%, or approximately $25 million. Although the situation is fluid, we project an impact of about $5 million in the first quarter, $10 million in the second quarter, $7 million in the third quarter and about $3 million in the fourth quarter,” he said. However, Nu Skin expects overall results will benefit from stronger-thananticipated revenue growth in South Asia/Pacific and China, as well as healthy growth in South Korea and Europe. The company also anticipates a stronger product launch in the fourth quarter than initially forecast. • happi • 137

Personnel Roundup

CHEMSIL PROMOTES GRIFFITHS TO VP-SALES & BUSINESS DEV. • Chemsil Silicones: promoted Robert Griffiths to vice president of sales and business development. In this expanded role, Griffiths is responsible for directing the global expansion of Chemsil sales efforts as well as working with service partners to expand the global capabilities of Chemsil.

pertise in the handling of national accounts as well as management over expanded territories, according to the company. Schimmel, most recently business development manager with Hydrite Chemical, has had upper management positions with Alcan, Ultra Additives-Munzing and Eckart America.

• AkzoNobel Global Personal Care: ap-

• Firmenich: promoted Joy Atkinson to vice

pointed Cassidy Callahan as sales specialist. Her responsibilities include achieving sales, identifying and developing new accounts and identifying new applications for existing products in sales territories that include Illinois and in the southern region of the U.S.

president, body and home care, North America, adding creation, marketing and development to her responsibilities. In her 28-year career in beauty and fragrances, she has gained experience in retail buying, marketing, branding, sales and general management across a spectrum of global companies, noted Firmenich. Joy Atkinson Atkinson succeeds Jerry Vittoria, who has been promoted to general manager of fine fragrances, North America.

Cassidy Callahan

• Grain Processing Corporation: named John Thorpe president. He joined the company in 2002 as sales manager, feed ingredients. He was promoted to vice president, feed ingredients in 2004 and in 2005 he was named vice president, industrial starch products.

• DS Containers: promoted Matt Kuehn to vice president of sales, marketing and technical support. Kuehn succeeds Emil Obradovich, who retired. Additionally, George Buckland has been promoted to managing director of sales and business development.

John Thorpe

Patrick Homoelle

Kevin Lester

In 2008, Thorpe was promoted to vice president for global sales. Patrick M. Homoelle was promoted from account executive, alcohol sales to vice president, alcohol products. He joined the company in 2004 and has 30 years experience in the chemical and ingredients business Kevin Lester has been promoted to director of technical service for the food, pharmaceutical and personal care group. He joined the company in 1998 in the quality assurance group, where he held the position of manager of analytical services. He transferred to operations in 2006 where he held a variety of leadership roles.

• Tupperware Brands Corporation: has named Daisy Chin-Lor president and managing director of BeautiControl North America. Albert Bosch, who previously served as president of BeautiControl North America, will transfer to Tupperware Japan as president and managing director. • Superior Materials: tapped Bruce Schimmel as sales manager. As part of the management team, he brings to Superior his ex138 • happi

• Floratech: promoted Kelley Dwyer to the newly-created position of senior vice president of sales and market development. He will continue his sales leadership and focus his account management in Asia. Since joining Floratech nearly 30 years ago, Dwyer has led the sales force and overseen the development of key global markets, according to the company.

Kelley Dwyer

• Diversey Holdings: named Helen Johnson-Leipold as chairman of its board of directors, following the resignation of S. Curtis Johnson. Johnson-Leipold is a member of the Diversey Holdings and Diversey boards. She is also chairman of Johnson Financial Group and CEO/chairman of Johnson Outdoors, Inc.

• The Yankee Candle Company: tapped John Fontana as president of the international division. Hope Margala Klein has been promoted to senior vice president, brand design and innovation. Fontana has significant experience in the candle industry, as well as success in developing consumer growth strategies, and setting up effective international business platforms. Klein had been wholesale vice president of marketing and merchandising. •

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June 2011

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Professional Directory

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Advertising Index

Advertiser

Page No.

Telephone

Website

ABA Packaging Corp...........................................96 ......................800-443-9799 ................................www.abapackaging.com Ajinomoto ............................................................5 ......................201-292-3180 ..........................................www.ajichem.com AkzoNobel ..........................................................83 ......................888-331-6212 ..............www.akzonobel.com/PersonalCare Alnor Oil ..............................................................92 ......................516-561-6146 ..........................................www.alnoroil.com Alpha Packaging/Technigraph ..........................99 ......................507-454-3830 ....................................www.technigraph.net Alpha Research ..................................................55 ......................914-761-7141 ........................................www.alpharnd.com AMA Laboratories ..............................................49 ......................845-634-4330..........................................www.amalabs.com Arista Industries, Inc. ........................................135 ....................800-ALL-OILS ............................www.aristaindustries.com Arizona Chemical ..............................................15 ......................800-733-1374............................www.arizonachemical.com Arylessence ..........................................................35 ......................800-553-2440 ....................................www.arylessence.com Bayer Inc. ............................................................29 ......................412-777-2000..............................www.bayercosmetics.com BioScreen Testing Services ................................27 ......................800-229-9057 ......................................www.bioscreen.com Biosil Technologies, Inc. ......................................90 ......................973-684-2000 ......................................www.biosiltech.com Brenntag North America ....................................22 ......................800-732-0562 ......................www.brenntagspecialties.com Campo Research USA Inc. ............................72, 73 ..................877-329-8449 ............................www.campo-research.com Caribbean Natural Products Inc. ......................74 ......................973-882-5115 ....................www.caribnaturalproducts.com Centerchem, Inc. ............................................Cover 4..................203-822-9800....................................www.centerchem.com Chemsil ................................................................33 ......................877-700-0302 ..........................................www.chemsil.com Clinical Research Labs........................................53 ......................732-981-1616 ............................................www.crl-inc.com Coast Southwest ................................................52 ......................800-621-0500 ............................www.coastsouthwest.com Cognis GmbH ..................................................58, 59 ..................800-531-0815 ............................................www.cognis.com Consumer Product Testing, Inc. ........................21 ......................973-808-7111 ..........................................www.cptclabs.com Cosmetic Essence................................................11 ......................732-888-7788............................www.cosmeticessence.com Coughlan Products LLC ....................................51 ......................973-904-1500 ........................www.coughlanproducts.com Covalence ............................................................23 ......................480-897-0551......................................www.CoValence.com CPL Aromas ........................................................93 ......................732-868-8330 ......................................www.cplaromas.com Croda ................................................................19, 76 ..................732-417-0800 ........................................www.crodausa.com DSM Nutritional Products, Inc. ........................17 ......................800-526-0189..........www.unlimitednutrition-na.dsm.com DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products Co., LLC ......88 ......................866-404-7933 ..........................................www.dupont.com Extracts & Ingredients/Morre-Tec Ind. ............68 ......................908-688-9009 ........................................www.morretec.com Flavex Naturextrakte GmbH ............................103 ..............+49 (0) 68 35-91 95-0 ......................................www.flavex.com Grant Industries, Inc. ..........................................3 ......................201-791-8700..........................................www.grantinc.com HBA Global Expo ..........................................Cover 3..................212-600-3033 ........................................www.hbaexpo.com ICMAD................................................................117 ....................800-334-2623 ..............................................www.icmad.org Impact Analytical ..............................................113 ....................989-832-5555............................www.impactanalytical.com Inolex Chemical Company ................................13 ......................215-271-0800 ............................................www.inolex.com InVitro International ..........................................43 ......................800-246-8487 ......................................www.invitrointl.com 144 • happi

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June 2011

Advertising Index

Advertiser

Page No.

Telephone

Website

Jeen International................................................25......................800-771-JEEN ................................................www.jeen.com Kleen Test Products Corporation ......................37 ......................262-268-4747 ..............................www.kleentest.com//hba Laboratoires Serobiologiques/Cognis ..............81 ..................(33) 3 83 29 97 92 ....www.laboratoires-serobiologiques.com Lipo Chemicals....................................................47 ......................973-345-8600 ................................www.lipochemicals.com Lonza Inc. ............................................................64 ......................201-316-9200 ..............................................www.lonza.com Madeline Blondman & Co. Inc. ........................104 ....................516-466-2400 ......................www.madelineblondman.com McKernan Packaging Clearing House ............110 ....................800-561-0236 ......................................www.mckernan.com Mibelle AG Biochemistry....................................57 ................+41 (0) 62 836 13 45................www.mibellebiochemistry.com Micro Powders, Inc. ............................................45 ......................914-793-4058 ..........................www.mpipersonalcare.com Natural Plant Products ......................................67 ......................503-363-6402 ................................www.meadowfoam.com Noveon Consumer Specialties ..........................79 ......................800-379-5389 ....................www.personalcare.noveon.com Novozymes North America, Inc. ......................63 ......................919-494-3000..................www.novozymes.com/detergent. Partnerplus Packaging International Co., Ltd. 102 ................86-020-3758-5205 ......................www.cosmeticpackaging.cc Pilot Chemical Co. ..............................................60 ......................800-707-4568 ................................www.pilotchemical.com Purac America Inc. ..............................................71 ......................888-899-8166 ..............................................www.purac.com Resources of Nature LLC ..................................87 ......................908-226-5123 ........................www.resourcesofnature.com Rhodia ..................................................................39 ......................800-922-2189............................www.rhodia-novecare.com RITA Corporation ..........................................Cover 2..................800-426-7759 ..........................................www.ritacorp.com Ruger Chemical Co., Inc.....................................41 ......................800-274-7843 ..............................www.rugerchemical.com Sabinsa ................................................................69 ......................732-777-1111 ..........................www.sabinsacosmetics.com SCC West Coast ................................................131 ............................................................................................www.caliscc.org Sederma/Croda ..................................................84 ......................732-692-1652..............................................www.sederma.fr Silab......................................................................94 ..................(33) 05 55 84 58 40 ................................................www.silab.fr Solabia Group ....................................................103 ..................+33 1 48 10 19 40 ............................................www.solabia.fr Spectra Colors Corp. ..........................................40 ......................800-527-8588................................www.SpectraColors.com Tapemark ............................................................115 ....................800-535-1998 ......................................www.tapemark.com Terry Laboratories ..............................................75 ......................800-367-2563 ........................................www.terrylabs.com TricorBraun ........................................................107 ....................800-325-7782 ....................................www.tricorbraun.com Trilogy Fragrances, Inc. ......................................31 ......................732-922-2520 ..........................www.trilogyfragrances.com Unit Pack, Inc. ....................................................111 ....................973-239-4112 ........................................www.unitpack.com Universal Preserv-A-Chem, Inc. ......................10 ......................732-568-1266 ........................................www.upichem.com Verla International ............................................101 ....................845-561-2440 ........................www.verlainternational.com Vevy Europe ........................................................127 ....................+39 010 522 51 ..............................................www.vevy.com Visual Pak Companies ......................................105 ....................877-689-0001........................................www.visualpak.com Wacker Chemical Corporation............................9 ......................888-922-5374..............www.wacker.com/knows-solutions Xiameter/Dow Corning ......................................7 ........................................................................................www.xiameter.com Youngbio Cemical Co., ITD ..............................125........0086-577-63198788/63198182 ................www.youngbiochem.com June 2011

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Photo News

VICHY WHIPS UP AN 80TH ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION

The crowd watches as Zac Young whips up French cremoux during Vichy’s 80th anniversary celebration in New York City.

Zac Young of “Top Chef Just Desserts” and Vichy’s vice president of marketing and business development Marianna Trofimova.

• At Vichy’s 80th Anniversary celebration held at Apella in New York City, the company rolled out new products as Zac Young, “Top Chef Just Desserts” finalist, rolled out a sweet treat. At the event, the French beauty firm introduced ProEven Total Dark Spot Corrector, Normaderm Triple Action Anti-Acne Hydrating Lotion and Capital Soleil Soft Sheer Sunscreen SPF 30 and 60, while Young, executive pastry chef of Flex Mussels, whipped up a French cremoux that mimicked the texture of the new Capital Soleil sunscreen lotions. During his demonstration,Young explained how the steps to creating a French mousse are similar to the steps used by Vichy to create its innovative skin care products.

Design Essentials at World of Natural Hair Show • Professional stylists, students and consumers filled classrooms to take part in Design Essentials Salon System’s “Design Essentials Presents DE Natural” and “Natural Versatility by Design Essentials” classes during the World of Natural Hair Show Atlanta. Design Essentials natural educator Deshonica Green led three live demonstrations to teach class attendees the proper use of DE Natural and various ways to achieve twisted or curly styles using the products in the salon and for home maintenance. Master educator Natalie Hayes guided classes through maintenance, styling, and finishing hair into straight, silky style using DE’s Ceramic Design Essentials master educator pHusion technique, Natalie Hayes at the World of Natural without the use of Hair Show Atlanta. harsh chemicals. • 146 • happi

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Design Essentials models show off their final looks at the World of Natural Hair Show Atlanta.

June 2011

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Register for a Complimentary Exhibit Hall Pass at www.hbaexpo.com/ register with priority code: PHAPE E=6E:

CaresoftTM A new approach to improve the sensitive skin’s overall condition Strengthens the skin barrier by balancing pH Decreases skin reactivity, redness and stinging

North American distributor:

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