HAPPI March 2011

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March 2011 Volume 48, No. 3 www.happi.com

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FEATURES 57

Formulating Manual Dishwashing Detegents An optimum hand dishwash liquid formula can be developed by using LAS, SLES and cocamidopropyl betaine and perhaps some cocamide DEA. Read on to learn how to develop a variety dishwash detergents.

60

64 69 81

ACI Builds Its Brand A year after its transformation into the American Cleaning Institute, ACI executives tell members that it remains dedicated to getting the job done in Washington, D.C. and around the world through an effective network of partners.

Suppliers Remain Optimistic Two years into the U.S. recovery, raw material suppliers to the global laundry and household care industry remain optimistic about growth opportunities.

The Sky’s the Limit Today’s consumers want volume and hold in hairstyling products. A listing of new ingredients for hair styling begins on p. 75.

Remedies to the Rescue They may be less sexy than their antiaging counterparts, but OTC and medicated personal care products address a range of maladies that affect consumers’ skin, how they feel and their self-esteem.

COLUMNS 36

Gleams & Notions A hydroquinone alternative is available from Cognis

38

EuroTrends Groom for improvement in the men’s market

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A Strategic Point of View Tesco trials salons in two UK centers

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Notes from China Growth opportunities in prestige hair care

46

The Grayson Report How permission-to-buy promotes the product sale

Cover Story

91

Burnt Offerings

51

The sun care market continues to post good gains, while marketers keep rolling out new products regardless of whether or not FDA issues its final ruling. A list of new ingredients for sun care begins on p. 102.

The Sunscreen Filter Five-star research; below par ratings Cover design: Laura Caramagna

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happi.com

March 2011

©2011 Ajinomoto U.S.A., Inc. All product names shown here are registered trademarks of Ajinomoto Co., Inc.

DEPARTMENTS 8

Editor’s Page

32

Under pressure

10

Index to Companies A quick guide to the companies referenced in this issue of HAPPI

12

Online at Happi.com Sometimes, baby care means bunnies and botanical bliss

14

News Front Beauty is back, says NPD in report

16

Formulary Brenntag Specialties develops ‘surf’ stick

20

International Tupperware CEO named to French Legion of Honor

24

Marketing News Avon launches 125th anniversary celebration

130

ACI calls for coordination of green chemistry guidelines

34

110

Patents L’Oréal patents composition for washing keratin fibers

108

New Products Burt’s Bees taps lipcolor category

110

Packaging News Luxe Pack NY: bigger than ever

112

Meetings

122

114

130

Financial News 2010 sales rise 2.7% at Church & Dwight

118

Photo News OneRepublic performs at Sundance for Big Pony line

SCC News 2011 Scientific Seminar is June 2-3 in Las Vegas

116

Personnel Roundup Personnel changes at Seppic

In-Cosmetics 2011 set for Milan, March 29-30

ADVERTISING SECTIONS 123

Contract Packaging/ Private Label

126

Professional Directory

Industry News

127

Classified Ads

Glenn Corp. celebrates 30th anniversary

128

Advertising Index

Supplier’s Corner Rahn rolls out silhouette refiner

119 6 • happi

Regulations

happi.com

March 2011

Miracare® SLB

Luxurious cleansing. Rich sensations. Miracare® SLB allows formulators to deliver the sensory signals expected from today’s Shampoos and Body washes. SLB’s unique rheology combines a rich texture with the ability to suspend high levels of insoluble actives, conditioning oils and fragrances. This system provides a multitude of sensations and benefits— from aromatherapy, relaxation and revitalization to color retention, hydration and conditioning.

Miracare® SLB feels like a lotion but lathers into a creamy bodywash. Simple, versatile, flexible… The perfect cleansing system where Performance and Sensory are one.

North America Phone: +1-888-776-7337 +1-609-860-4000 Fax: +1-609-860-0463 [email protected] Europe Phone: +33 (0)1 53 56 50 00 Fax: +33 (0)1 53 56 53 90 [email protected] Asia Pacific Phone: +65 - 6291 1921 Fax: +65 - 6394 3376 [email protected] Latin America Phone: +55 11 3747-7886 Fax: +55 11 3741-1032 [email protected] www.rhodia.com

Editor’s Page

UNDER PRESSURE

T

by Procter & Gamble (P&G) that it was raising prices on many of its consumer products should come as no surprise to anyone who’s been following the rise in commodity costs during the past year. Speaking at a Consumer Analyst Group of New York conference late last month, P&G chief financial officer Jon Moeller said specific details of the price increases would be made public over the next month or so. According to Moeller, P&G now predicts more than $1 billion in increased commodity costs this year, as prices for diesel, cotton, aluminum and other materials climb. At the same time, underlying growth rates in developed markets, which account for the bulk of P&G’s sales, have been essentially flat. If that sluggishness persists, it could be more difficult for P&G to meet the high end of its 4-6% sales growth target this fiscal year, according to Moeller. And that, in turn, would put a damper on the recovery that’s currently being enjoyed by most marketers and suppliers in the household and personal products industry. In recent interviews with HAPPI at the American Cleaning Institute’s annual meeting (see p. 64), several suppliers warned of rising commodity costs and the implications they would have on their customers and their consumers. Suppliers realize that they can’t bear the brunt of rising prices on their own, marketers can’t either and now prices are rising for consumers everywhere. Sun care, however, should remain hot regardless of how much prices increase, as consumers realize it is better to lighten their wallets than increase their cancer risks. Last year, mass-market sales of sun care products rose more than 10%, and industry observers expect another year of good gains. As a matter of fact, more than a few companies are rolling out more expensive products in an effort to reach the high end of the market. Our coverage starts on p. 91. Also this month, we look at the resilient hair styling market (p. 69). Thanks to the popularity of some high-haired reality stars, sales of sprays and gels have managed to hold their own during the past year. Another segment that’s remained strong during the past year is OTC products (p. 81). As U.S. Baby Boomers age, they’re looking for products that will take away those aches and pains without a doctor’s prescription. After all, with the cost of everything going up, the bet here is that more consumers may choose to skimp on healthcare. We hope that you enjoy this edition of HAPPI. As always, we welcome your comments and suggestions. HE RECENT ANNOUNCEMENT

Tom Branna Editorial Director [email protected]

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V.P./EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Tom Branna, [email protected] ASSOCIATE EDITORS: Melissa Meisel, [email protected], Christine Esposito, [email protected] COLUMNISTS: Ally Dai, Harvey Fishman, Navin Geria, Suzanne and Bob Grayson, Colin Hession, Katie Middleweek, Patrick Ropella, Nadim Shaath CONTRIBUTING EDITORS: Renata Ashcar, Shyam Gupta, Nancy Jeffries, Vispi Kanga

PRESIDENT: Rodman J. Zilenziger, Jr., [email protected] EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT: Matthew J. Montgomery, [email protected] PUBLISHER: Art Largar, [email protected] ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER: Beth Russo, [email protected] EUROPEAN SALES: Baudry Boisseau Associates Tel: 32-2-513-06-47 • Fax: 32-2-514-17-38 Email: [email protected] ADVERTISING SALES (Hong Kong, Taiwan & China): Michael R. Hay, Ringier Trade Publishing Ltd. Hong Kong (852) 2369 8788 • Fax: (852) 2869 5919 E-mail: [email protected] PRODUCTION DIRECTOR: Sharon Messner, [email protected] ART & TECHNICAL MANAGER: Michael Del Purgatorio, [email protected] ONLINE DIRECTOR: Paul Simansky, [email protected] WEB MANAGER: Jason Lawton, [email protected] CIRCULATION MANAGER: Joe DiMaulo, [email protected] To renew/subscribe/update subscription information, please visit www.happi.com. Or contact: [email protected] Tel: (201) 825-2552 ext. 374 Fax: (201) 825-6582.

A Rodman Publication 70 Hilltop Road Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA Tel: (201) 825-2552 Fax: (201) 825-0553 Website: www.Happi.com happi—Household and Personal Products Industry (ISSN 0090-8878) is published monthly on the 10th by Rodman Publishing Corp., 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA. Phone: (201) 825-2552. Fax: (201) 825-0553. Periodical postage paid at Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA and additional mailing offices. Publications Mail Agreement No 40028970: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Dept., PO Box 1051, Fort Erie, On L2A 6C7. Circulation Dept.: circulation @rodpub.com. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Happi, 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey NJ 07446 USA. Free subscriptions to Happi are available to qualified individuals. Others are as follows: U.S. one year $85; two years $115. Outside U.S. and overseas: one year $105 (U.S.), two years $150 (U.S.). Single issue: $12 (except for February, July and October, $15). 5% GST required on Canadian orders. GST#134451756. Foreign Airmail: one year $195 (U.S.). Make checks payable in U.S. dollars through a U.S. bank. American Express also accepted. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Missing Issues: Claims for missing issues must be made within three months of the date of the issue. PRINTED in USA. Happi’s circulation is audited by BPA International. Authorization to photocopy items in Happi for internal or personal use, or internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted by Rodman Publishing, provided a base fee of U.S. $1 per page is paid directly to: Copyright Clearance Center, 27 Salem St., Salem, MA 01970 USA.

March 2011

Start with a strong foundation. When it comes to repeat sales, it’s what’s inside that really counts. From silicones, emulsifiers and surfactants to solvents, preservatives and the latest in personal care ingredients, you can rely on Ashland’s solid line of world-class suppliers.

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With trusted manufacturers like Dow Corning, you can be confident Ashland has the right combination of ingredients and the dedicated technical and sales support to meet your formulation needs. Explore our diverse line of suppliers today. E-mail us at [email protected] for our latest line cards or call 1.800.531.7106, option 3. Ashland is a North American distributor of Dow Corning.

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Dow Corning is a registered trademark of Dow Corning Corporation ® Registered Trademark, Ashland or its subsidiaries * Trademark owned by a third party © 2010, Ashland AD-10403

Index to Companies

• This index gives the starting page for a

department or feature with a significant reference to a brand, finished product company, agency, research firm, retailer or trade association. Subsidiaries are indexed under their own names.

Abreva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Air Wick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Alberto-Culver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46, 116 Alterna Professional Haircare . . . . . . .69 American Cleaning Insitute . . . . .60, 122 Amway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Aquafresh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Aveeno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Avon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24, 91, 116 Axe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Babo Botanicals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Bawang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Beaute Prestige International . . . . . . .122 Beiersdorf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Beauty Stat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Big Pony Line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 Biolage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Biotherm Homme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Body by Blow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Borba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Bottega Veneta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Burt’s Bees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Calvin Klein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Carrefour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Church & Dwight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116 CkOne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38, 44 Clearasil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 ClickR Skincare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Clorox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Colgate-Palmolive . . . . . . . . . . . . .24, 116 Colomer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Consumer Specialty . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122 Products Association Coppertone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Cortizone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 81 Coty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Coty Prestige . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 CoverGirl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 CVC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Datamonitor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Desitin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82 Dio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 Earthly Elements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Ecolab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Elemental Herbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Elizabeth Arden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116 Environmental Working Group . . . . . .51 Estée Lauder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116 Everlight USA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 10 • happi

Fake Bake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 FDA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51, 91 Ferrosan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Gain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Gillette . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24, 40 Glade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 GlaxoSmithKline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24, 81 Gloss Moderne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Glytone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 GoodSkin Labs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Göt2b . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Grooming Lounge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Grow Green Industries . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Guangzhou Panda Cosmetics . . . . . . .44 Guthy-Renker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Hawaiian Tropic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Head & Shoulders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Henkel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 In-Cosmetics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Jan Marini Skin Research . . . . . . . . . . .81 Jessica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 John Frieda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Johnson & Johnson . . . . . . . . . . . . .24, 81 Joico . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 JP Mitchell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Kantar Worldpanel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Kao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40, 44 King of Shaves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Kline & Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 KPSS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 L’Oréal . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20, 34, 38, 40, 49 La Roche-Posay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81, 91 LaScad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 LifeWave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Liquid Fence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Listerine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Lush . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 LVMH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20, 116 Lysol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 M.A.C. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Market America . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Markwins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Marlies Moller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Matrix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 MaxClarity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Maybelline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 McNeil-PPC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 MD Lash Factor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Merck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Mintel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14, 69, 81 Mr. Bubble . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Mr. Clean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Nada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Nature’s Gate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Neosporin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Nivea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 No!no! Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Nordstrom’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 happi.com

Not Your Mother’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 NPD Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Nude Skincare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Number 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130 Obagi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Ole Henriksen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 OPI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24, 108 Organix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Origins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 P&G . . . . . . . . .20, 24, 40, 44, 46, 60, 108 PanOxyl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Pantene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Pfizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Pierre Fabre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Pravana Naturceuticals . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Proactiv . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 PZ Cussons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Radiancy, Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Radius . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Raid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Ralph Lauren Fragrances . . . . . . . . . .130 Reckitt Benckiser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24, 81 Renée Rouleau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Rogaine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 S&G Hampton Sun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Saks Fifth Avenue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Sally Hansen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 SC Johnson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24, 32 Schick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Shiseido . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20, 34, 40 Skin Cancer Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . .51 Sonia Kashuk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Speed Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Stiefel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Suave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Supergoop! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 SymphonyIRI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38, 81, 91 Tarte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Tesco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Tom’s of Maine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Tone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 TouchBack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 TreSemme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Troy Healthcare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Tupperware . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 TwinLuxe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Tylenol Precise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81 Unilever . . . . . . . . . . . . .20, 32, 38, 40, 69 Unipro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Unity Marketing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 V05 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Vaseline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Water Babies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .91 Wella Professional . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 White Sands Hair Care . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 Younggrace Cosmetic Group . . . . . . . .44 Yunnan Baiyao Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Zhangguange Co. Ltd. . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 March 2011

Online at happi.com

SOMETIMES, BABY CARE MEANS BUNNIES AND BOTANICAL BLISS • Kate Solomon grew up with a love of all things bunny. Growing up in her apartment in New York City, she had rabbits as pets and still regards the furry friends as symbols of comfort, warmth and great luck. When her first son was born, she gave him an organic stuffed animal bunny that quickly became his official “security bunny” at bedtime or, his Babo. But then Babo became much more. Solomon—a seasoned veteran of the beauty industry, having worked at both L’Oréal and LVMH—was inspired by the fast-growing natural personal care category. After much research, she created Babo Botanicals, a hair and body care collection customized to meet the needs of babies and kids of all ages but effective enough for the whole family.

The Doctor’s Orders • Hippocrates, the ancient Greek physician, advised, “let plants be your medicine.” Natural Inspired by her son’s bedtime bunny and natural personal care, Kate Solomon

skin care marketer Origins took a page from the sage’s well-regarded philosophies with its newest anti-aging serum, Plantscription. The SKU visibly corrects lines and wrinkles and loss of firmness by helping to rebuild natural fibrillin, collagen and elastin with the help of key ingredient African Anogeissus, according to the company.

created Babo Botanicals.

A Wash with Opportunity • Grow Green Industries—maker of Eat Cleaner fruit and

For consumers on the go,

veggie wash—has a lot on its plate these days. Company executives insist that the food we eat is often filthy and demands something more than a quick rinse. Its Eat Cleaner formula, made with FDA-approved ingredients, is billed as an all-natural, odorless and tasteless food wash that removes pesticides, waxes and surface debris that can carry bacteria from produce, Grow Green offers a variety of products that can seafood and poultry. Since its launch in 2009, this start-up firm help consumers consume cleaner produce. has expanded its distribution to major supermarket chains and is now gearing up for its QVC debut—all as it looks to grow its commercial business, too.

there are Eat Cleaner wipes.

Razor with an Edge • TwinLuxe, a men’s grooming brand created by twin brothers Anthony and Hubert Tsai, was designed for men who like the finer things in life—even when it comes to shaving. The company offers shaving kits that can cost anywhere from $788 to nearly $1,600. A high price, sure, but as Anthony Tsai notes,“We don’t eat with plastic knives and forks at home so why shave with a $5 plastic razor?”

What Does Beauty Mean to Nordstrom?

The TwinLuxe roster includes men’s skin care.

• Learn more from a diverse panel of beauty experts who will discuss Nordstrom’s beauty trends. Panelists will include Rick DiCecca, Estée Lauder global makeup artist; Ricky Wilson, Dior celebrity makeup artist; Deborah Lippman, celebrity manicurist and founder of Deborah Lippman, and Matin, Laura Mercier’s celebrity makeup artist. 12 • happi

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March 2011

Love may be in the air, but at Chemsil Silicones, it’s in our innovative intimate care ingredients. Our raw materials range from premium, long lasting silicone lubricants, washable silicone gels and patented oil-free warming lubricants. Cosmetic Fluid 3569-DM is a silicone elastomer compound designed for skin lubricant applications requiring a light, non-greasy skin feel. If you are formulating for that “long play” skin feel, evaluate our Cosmetic Fluid 9502-DM. This premium elastomer compound provides unsurpassed tactile properties , elegant after-feel and soothing skin lubricity. Emulsil® WSL is our patent pending, silicone complex which can be formulated into washable, clear silicone and water hybrid gels. Emulsil® WSL possesses all the key properties of both a silicone and a water based lubricant combined. Turn up the heat with XO-Therm® IG, our patented liquid warming fluid. When activated with moisture XO-Therm® IG will really warm things up for your intimate care formulations! We Supply YOUR “Intimate” Silicone Solutions.

We Provide YOUR Silicone Solutions™

Manufacturer of Specialty Silicones for Cosmetics and Personal Care 877.700.0302 • www.chemsil.com

News Front

BEAUTY IS BACK, SAYS NPD IN REPORT • After two consecutive years of declines, it appears that the beauty business is growing again. The NPD Group, Inc., presented the U.S. and global beauty industry’s first look at 2010 year-end results for skin care, makeup, and fragrance at their annual“Hot off the Press”event at the Plaza Hotel in New York City. According to NPD, U.S. prestige beauty sales increased 4% in dollar sales in 2010 vs. 2009, a significant change following back-to-back years of slumping sales. In 2010, all U.S. prestige beauty categories experienced dollar growth as opposed to 2009, where all the categories declined. Prestige skin care posted the biggest increase, followed by prestige makeup and prestige fragrance. “What a difference a year makes! If there were any doubts of the continued appeal of prestige beauty products and the tenacity of the beauty industry after the declines of 2009, then 2010 provided a loud, clear, and most encouraging answer,” said Karen Grant, vice president and senior global industry analyst, The NPD Group. “Prestige beauty saw the quick recovery of skin care, which by June, had surpassed pre-recession levels. This was followed by the gradual upturn in makeup, and finally, a late year rally in fragrance. Prestige beauty is well positioned for a positive year in 2011.” The prestige beauty category rebounded in 2010. It was a good year for the food/drug/mass channel as well. The channel experienced a 3% sales growth in 2010, versus a flat 2009. Makeup sales posted the biggest increase, followed by skin care. However, fragrance sales declined 1%. Fragrance sales in the national chain sector declined 1% in dollar sales too, according to NPD. More info: www.npdgroup.com

Hispanics Stick with Brand Names • When times are tough, it is no surprise to find consumers opting for less-expensive products in order to save money. Equally unsurprising, lower-income households are more likely to trade down. But one group breaks the mold—Spanishdominant Hispanics. According to research from Mintel, lowerincome, Spanish-dominant Hispanics are still buying name brand personal care products at a higher rate than their Englishdominant counterparts. According to Mintel, 64% of Hispanics surveyed who have an income of $25,000-$49,999 say they still buy name brand body soaps or shower gels. Meanwhile, 64% of Spanish-dominant Hispanics, compared to 58% of English-dominant Hispanics, say they continue to buy name brand body soaps or shower gels despite the economic downturn. “Spanish-dominant Hispanics are most likely to stick to their favorite brand of hand soap, body soap and shower gel,

Hispanics remained loyal to national brands during the recession.

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News Front

signifying that less acculturated Hispanics remain loyal to the same brand despite the economy,”said Leylha Ahuile, senior multicultural analyst at Mintel.“English-dominant Hispanics tend to have higher household incomes and apparently are less concerned with brand name soaps and more focused on saving money.” Spanish-dominant consumers are also more likely to stick to their favorite name brand lotions (51% vs. 35% of English-dominant consumers), facial cleansers (27% vs. 20% of English-dominant consumers) and toothpaste or mouthwash (69% vs. 65% of Englishdominant consumers), refusing to trade down to more affordable private label personal care products. “In spite of Hispanics’ lower-than-average household income level, they indexed higher than non-Hispanics in the consumption of personal care products in 2009,” said Ahuile. “Over the last six years, Hispanics have consistently increased their spending on personal care products. And within personal care, Hispanics index higher than non-Hispanics in the subcategories of hair care products and bath products.” However, lower-income Hispanics are still interested in saving a few dollars with multifunctional products—65% of those who earn $25,000-$49,999 are interested in two-in-one shampoo/conditioners and 83% would be more inclined to purchase toothpaste that can also serve as a mouthwash and whitener. More info: www.mintel.com

Pick Your Perfect Partner

Insights on Anti-Aging

• The NPD Group has release information from its Anti-Aging Facial Skincare and the Female Consumer study, conducted in October. According to the study, about half (48%) of anti-aging users only began using these products in 2007 with less than onefourth (22%) only using these products since 2009. Here’s a look at some other stats revealed by NPD: • 56% of women skin care users are antiaging seekers, stating they have gone shopping or looked for skin care products with anti- aging benefits. Of these seekers, about three quarters (76%) are currently using these types of products. • More than half (56%) of current antiaging facial skin care users say they are not sure if these products really work, but they use them anyway. • More than doctors/dermatologists, TV advertising, online searches, or best of awards, the No. 1 influence in helping a woman decide which anti-aging products to buy is the recommendation of her friends, family and coworkers, with 3 in 4 women agreeing with this statement. More info: www.npdgroup.com• March 2011

We know how it is. Youʼre looking for the right fit, a supplier thatʼs easy to work with, flexible. A company that knows how to give you what you need, when you need it. One that listens, responds, problem-solves. You wonder…is that too much to ask? Then you work with Ruger, and realize youʼve found The One. You start to think about the possibilities, resolving issues, reducing risk, all the exciting things you can accomplish together. Suddenly everything seems clear, and you know that youʼll never work alone again. Ingredient Sales • Repackaging • QC • Documentation

Ruger Chemical Co., Inc. 800.274.7843 www.rugerchemical.com

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Formulary

BRENNTAG SPECIALTIES DEVELOPS SUN CARE ‘SURF’ STICK Brenntag Specialties, Inc. 800-732-0562 • www.brenntag.com INGREDIENTS Phase A Siliconyl beeswax (BSI-Koster Kuenen) (Bis-PEG-12 dimethicone beeswax) Siliconyl Polyethylene (BSI-Koster Kuenen) (Polyethylene & stearoxy dimethicone) Siliconyl Candelilla (BSI-Koster Kuenen) (Bis-PEG-12 dimethicone candelillate) Kester Wax K 82-D (BSI-Koster Kuenen) (Di-C-20-40 alkyl dimer dilinoleate) Golden Jojoba Oil TX:8191 (BSI – Textron) (Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil) Lemon Peel Wax (BSI-Koster Kuenen) (Citrus medica limonum (lemon) peel extract) DM 10 (BSI - Wacker-Belsil) (Dimethicone) Uvinul MC 80 BASF (Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) Vit E Acetate (BASF) (Tocopheryl acetate) Phase B T-Lite SF (BASF) (Titanium dioxide (and) aluminum hydroxide (and) dimethicone/methicone copolymer) Z-Cote HP1 (BASF) (Zinc oxide (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane) ST1925 (BSI) (Talc and dimethicone)

WT% 4.00 4.00 4.00 5.00 30.00 2.00 15.00 5.00 1.00 15.00 5.00 10.00

Phase B Dow Corning FZ-3196 (Caprylyl methicone) Arlamol HD (Isododecane) (Croda) Dow Corning MQ-1640 Flake Resin (Trimethylsiloxysilicate (and) polypropylsilsesquioxane) Dow Corning 5329 Performance Modifier (PEG-12 dimethicone) Plantaren 2000 N UP (Cognis) (Decyl glucoside) Phase C Glycerin Deionized water Phase D Sepigel 305 (Seppic) (Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 isoparaffin (and) laureth-7) Phase E Parfum Preservative (choice)

Dow Corning Corporation Tel: 989-496-6000 • Fax: 989-496-5508 Email: [email protected] Website: www.dowcorning.com/content/personal/ INGREDIENTS Phase A Parsol MCX (DSM Nutritional Products) (Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) Neo Heliopan OS (Symrise) (Ethylhexy salicylate) Parsol 340 (DSM Nutritional Products) (Octocrylene) Parsol 1789 (DSM Nutritional Products) (Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) 16 • happi

WT% 7.5 5.0 2.0 2.0

4.0 0.5 5.0 61.6 2.0

0.1 0.3

PROCEDURE: Combine phase A and heat to 60°C, mixing until homogeneous. Remove from heat and continue mixing while cooling to room temperature. Combine phase B and mix until homogeneous. Add phase A to phase B, mixing until homogeneous. In a separate vessel, combine C and mix. Add phase AB to phase C with agitation. Continue mixing for 10 min at 1500 rpm. Add phase D to phase ABC, mixing until homogeneous. Add phase E while mixing.

Hair Wax Formula JZ3-48

PROCEDURE: Add Phase A ingredients to the main mixing vessel; begin heating to 75-85°C. Once waxes start to melt begin moderate speed propeller mixing. Maintain temperature at 75-85°C until all waxes have fully melted. Add Phase B ingredients, homogenize until all particles are fully dispersed. Pour into stick mold.

Light Touch Sports Sunscreen

4.0 3.0 3.0

The HallStar Company Tel: 877-427-4255, (312) 385-4494 Email: [email protected] Website: www.hallstar.com INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A HallStar GC (HallStar) (Ethylhexyl salicylate) 5.00 Lanogene (Lubrizol/Noveon) (Lanolin oil) 6.95 Drakeol 7 Lt Min Oil NF (Penreco) (Mineral oil 5.00 (paraffinum liquidum) Dow Corning 345 Fluid (Dow Corning) 10.50 (Cyclopentasiloxane (and) cyclohexasiloxane) Dow Corning 2-2078 Fluid (Dow Corning) 5.00 (Aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone) Stepanquat ML (Stepan) (Quaternium-82) 2.00 Dow Corning HY-3051 Soy Wax Blend (Dow Corning) 43.00 (Hydrogenated soybean oil (and) hydrogenated soybean polyglycerides (and) C15-23 alkane)

happi.com

March 2011

Formulary

Phase B HallStar GMS SE/AS (HallStar) (Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate) HallStar (KLA)(HallStar) (Cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20) SF1642 (Momentive) (C30-45 alkyl dimethicone) Merisol BHT (Merisol antioxidants) (BHT)

3.00 11.50 3.00 0.05

PROCEDURE: To main vessel, combine A. Heat with mixing to 74–77°C. Add phase B ingredients in order and mix for 30 minutes, maintaining temperature. With continued mixing, begin cooling batch. When batch is uniform and at desired filling temperature, perform final quality assurance checks. PROPERTIES: (25°C): Appearance—Brown wax.

uniform. Add phase D ingredients to the batch using moderate agitation. Mix until uniform. PROPERTIES: Appearance— Clear gel; pH—7.1 – 7.5; Viscosity (mPa·s) (Brookfield RVT Viscometer @ 20 rpm, 25°C, #6 spindle, measured after 24 hours)—25,000 – 32,000; Yield Value (dyn/cm²)—2,000 – 2,500; Clarity (%T) (Brookfield RVT Viscometer @ 20 rpm, 25°C, #6 spindle, measured after 24 hours)—90 – 94; Mechanical Stiffness, Force (Newtons) (Stiffness: Texture Analyser XT Plus (50% relative humidity and 23°C))—14 N (+/- 0.6 N); HHSCR (%, after 8 hrs) (HHSCR: 90% relative humidity at 25°C )—58.5% (+/- 3.7%); Stability—Passed 2 months @ 25, 45°C, Passed 1 month @ 55 °C , Passed 5 F/T cycles.

Anti Acne Facial Cleanser

Rhodia Tel: 888-776-7337, 609-860-4000 E-mail: [email protected] www.rhodia.com

Mega Hold Clear Styling Gel

Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc. 
 (Noveon Consumer Specialties)
 Tel: (216) 447-5000 Website: www.personalcare.noveon.com INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A Deioinized water 78.19 Carbopol Ultrez 21 Polymer (Lubrizol/Noveon) 0.40 (Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) 2.11 AMP-Ultra PC 2000 (95%) (Dow/ANGUS) (Aminomethyl propanol) Fixate Freestyle Polymer (31% TS) (Lubriozl/Noveon) 16.13 (Acrylates crosspolymer-3) Phase B Deionized water 1.25 Edeta BD (BASF) (Disodium EDTA) 0.02 Phase C Cremophor CO 40 (BASF)(PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil) 0.10 Free Spirit (Drom) (Fragrance) 0.10 D Panthenol USP (BASF) (Pathnethol) 0.10 Phase D Sorbitol FP Liquid (Sorbitol) 1.00 Neolone PE (Dow Cheimical) (Phenoxyethanol (and) 0.60 methylisothiazolinone) PROCEDURE: Sprinkle Carbopol Ultrez 21 Polymer on the deionized water (room temperature) surface. When the polymer has fully wetted out, start gentle mixing. Mix for 5-10 minutes. Neutralize with AMP-Ultra PC 2000. Mix until uniform. Slowly add Fixate Freestyle Polymer with moderate mixing. Continue mixing until smooth. In a separate vessel, dissolve disodium EDTA in deionized water (room temperature). Add phase B to phase A with mixing. Mix until uniform. In a separate vessel, heat Cremophor CO 40 until clear, at 55°C. Add fragrance and panthenol. Mix until uniform. Add phase C to batch. Mix until 18 • happi

INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A Water q.s. q.s. to 100 Veegum Ultra (R.T. Vanderbilt) (Magnesium aluminum silicate) 0.4 Rhodicare T (Rhodia) (Xanthan gum) Thickener 0.5 Sorbitol, 70% 0.5 Phase B Lipomulse 165 (Lipo Chemical) (Glyceryl stearate, 11.0 PEG-100 stearate) Liponate SPS (Lipo Chemical) (Cetyl esters) 1.0 Lipovol MOS-70 (Lipo Chemical) (Tridecyl stearate, 10.0 neopentyl glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, tridecyl trimelliate) Phase C Mackanate Ultra-SI (Rhodia) (Disodium PEG-12 30.0 dimethicone sulfosuccinate) Fragrance, dye q.s. Paragon II (Rhodia) (Propylene glycol, DMDM hydantoin, 0.6 methylparaben, propylparaben) Poly-Pore 145BP (Health and Beauty Solutions) 5.3 (Benzoyl peroxide) PROCEDURE: Heat the water of phase A to 45°C and slowly add the Veegum Ultra with continuous agitation. Slowly disperse the Rhodicare T. Add Sorbitol and heat to 80°C with moderate agitation. In a separate vessel add the contents of phase B and heat to 80°C. Add phase B to phase A and slowly cool with continuous mixing. At 50°C slowly add the Mackanate Ultra-SI, Paragon II, and fragrance. Cool slowly and add the Poly- Pore 145BP at 35°C. Blend until Poly-Pore 145BP is completely dispersed. Cool and fill. PROPERTIES: Appearance—Opaque liquid; Viscosity at 25°C— 1,500 – 5,000 cps (LVT, spindle 3, 12 rpm); pH @ 25°C—4.5–5.5; Solids,%—35-45%; Storage-Stability— Stable for 1 month (25°C; 45°C ; 4°C) 3 cycles freeze/thaw. •

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March 2011

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International

TUPPERWARE CEO NAMED TO FRENCH LEGION OF HONOR • FRANCE: Tupperware Brands’ chairman and CEO Rick Goings has been named a Knight in the French Legion of Honor. He was awarded this honor by Marie-France de Chabaneix, président d’honneur of Nutrimetics, France at a ceremony held in Paris at the residence of Charles H. Rivkin, U.S. Ambassador to France and Monaco. French President Nicolas Sarkozy has extended the distinction of Knight to Goings for his service to and support of women and disadvantaged children. Initiated by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1802, the Legion of Honor is the highest award presented to non-French citizens in recognition of military, cultural, scientific or social contributions to France. “It is truly an honor to receive the distinction of Knight,”said Goings.“For nearly 20 years, I have been committed to Tupperware’s vision to enlightening, educating, and empowering women by offering a path defined not only by monetary gain, but by the desire to improve her quality of life and

that of those around her. We provide her with the foundation she needs to build a better life.” Tupperware Brands, based in Orlando, FL, is a global direct seller operating in multiple categories. Its beauty and personal care products are sold under the Armand Dupree, Avroy Shlain, BeautiControl, Fuller, NaturCare, Nutrimetics, Nuvo and Swissgarde banners. Goings joins a select group of Americans who have received the French Legion of Honor, including General Colin Powell, Dwight D. Eisenhower, Robert Redford and Clint Eastwood.

Hackers Hit Lush’s UK Website • ENGLAND: The UK website of beauty company Lush was hacked over a three month period. The breach apparently took place between Oct. 4, 2010 and Jan. 20, 2011, the company said. Lush reportedly contacted its online customers on Jan. 20 and the firm shut down the UK version of its website. A full external forensic investigation of the security breach has been commissioned, according to the company.

20 • happi

IFF To Invest $100 Million In Greater Asia

• SINGAPORE: International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. will invest more than $100 million in Greater Asia during the next three years. The investment will be allocated to two new state-of-the-art manufacturing facilities located in Guangzhou, China and Singapore. The facility in Singapore will be used for both flavor and fragrance production while the Guangzhou site will be dedicated to flavors production. Located near the existing IFF sites, both new facilities are ideally situated to ensure a smooth transition with experienced in-house talent, according to IFF. Together, the sites will considerably expand capacity for the Greater Asia region well into the future. More info: www.iff.com

Shiseido Enters Armenia and Belarus

Pfizer Buys Ferrosan’s Consumer Healthcare Unit

• JAPAN: Shiseido has commenced sales

a definitive agreement to purchase Ferrosan’s consumer healthcare business, which includes dietary supplements and an oral skin care line, from Altor 2003 Fund GP Limited. Financial terms were not disclosed. Based in Copenhagen, Ferrosan is an established consumer healthcare company. Since 1920, it has grown to serve a broader market including Russia, the Ukraine, Poland, Turkey and many countries throughout Central and Eastern Europe. While most of the deal centers on dietary supplements and allows Pfizer to expand distribution of its Centrum brand, the package also includes Imedeen, Ferrosan’s

of its global Shiseido brand prestige skin care and makeup lines in the Newly Independent States (NIS) of the Republic of Armenia and the Republic of Belarus. The move is in line with the Japanese cosmetic giant’s established marketing strategy centered on Europe and the Americas. In Armenia, Shiseido Europe S.A.S. will handle the import and sales of products by concluding contract agreements with three cosmetics retail chains with “proven performance in sales of imported prestige cosmetics products.” In the first year, Shiseido products will be launched in seven stores. In Belarus, Shiseido Europe S.A.S. has an agreement with one cosmetics retail

• DENMARK: Pfizer Inc. has entered into

Tupperware CEO Rick Goings, at right, as recently named a Knight to the French Legion of Honor.

premium oral skin care supplements. The Imedeen brand includes firming, anti-aging and post-menopause formulations and a tan optimizer in oral form, as well as external treatments such as Imedeen Expression Line Control.

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March 2011

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International

chain, and it says Shiseido products will be launched in four stores. According to Shiseido, consumer purchasing power in Belarus is rising and international fashion brands have already penetrated the market. The prestige cosmetics market there is also achieving a high growth rate, registering double-digit growth, the company noted.

distribution of Lipotec’s products in Australia and New Zealand. The subsidiary will serve as the company’s sustainable directto-partner office for sales and technical support in the area. Lipotec Pty. will be managed by Albert Calvillo, formerly area sales manager at Lipotec’s Asia office in Singapore.

M.A.C Glams Up Irish Film & TV Awards

LVMH Acquires Nude And Ole Henriksen

• IRELAND: As the official makeup spon-

• FRANCE: LVMH has been busy in early

sor of the event, M.A.C Cosmetics glamorized nominees, presenters and actresses at the 8th Annual Irish Film & Television Awards (IFTA), which took place on Feb 12. Makeup artists were on hand in the M.A.C Beauty Suite and backstage during the IFTA ceremony.

2011 expanding its skin care business. Just days apart last month, the luxury products company acquired a 70% stake in Nude Skincare and purchased luxury botanical skin care brand Ole Henriksen. Nude, described as a luxury skin care line using high performance bioavailable ingredients, was founded by Ali Hewson and Bryan Meehan in 2006. “We are delighted with our new partnership with LVMH. Our shared commitment to growing Nude Skincare and continuing to invest together in the principles that are fundamental to the success of the brand are extremely exciting. Nude Skincare has made great strides since its start, and with the benefit of LVMH’s support, the brand will no doubt be able to grow substantially and innovate at a much faster pace, consistent LVMH has with the successful approach acquired LVMH has had with other skin care brands in the perfumes and brand Ole cosmetics sector,” explained Henriksen. Hewson and Meehan in a press statement. Nude Skincare will continue to be based in London. Meehan, as executive chairman, and Anna Ghee, as general manager, will continue in their respective roles. Hugues Dusseaux, president of new ventures for LVMH Perfumes & Cosmetics, will work with Nude on behalf of LVMH. Ole Henriksen, which will continue to be based in Los Angeles, is sold in 25

Make Key ‘Connect’ions Now For In-Cosmetics

• ITALY: In-Cosmetics has just launched its brand new interactive tool, Connect, ahead of this month’s show, which will be held March 29-31 in Milan. Making its debut at the event in Milan, Connect offers exhibitors and pre-registered visitors a fully integrated networking system to email and arrange meetings prior to the exhibition. Users can also create an online diary and save seminars, products and information to their favorites. For access, visitors and exhibitors need to pre-register for the show at www.incosmetics.com/register, where they will receive a username and password to their email inbox. More info: www.in-cosmetics.com

Lipotec Forms Subsidiary in Australia

• AUSTRALIA: Lipotec has established Lipotec Pty. Ltd., a subsidiary for the Australian and New Zealand markets. According to Lipotec, the move is in line with its strategy to build direct in-house distribution and in accordance with the growing customer area demands. Based in Sydney and effective immediately, Lipotec Pty. Ltd. will assume responsibility on an exclusive basis for the 22 • happi

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countries. In North America, the brand is sold in all of LVMH-owned Sephora stores in Canada and in the U.S., including the retailer’s outposts in J.C. Penney, as well as via TV shopping network HSN. Ole Henriksen is also sold in a number of spas and small boutiques. The Ole Henriksen Face/Body spa in Los Angeles was not included in the deal.

Croda Is Candidate For Company of Year

• ENGLAND: Croda International Plc is on the shortlist for the category of Company of the Year award for the Financial Times PLC Awards. Croda was recognized in the nomination for its completion of a restructuring program, rising sales volumes, change in sales mix and record profits in both consumer care and industrial specialties. In addition, Croda’s global innovation centers, and its ability to continue to put out new products that meet the demands of its customers, was a specific highlight of Croda’s success, the company said. The PLC Awards, which recognize the achievements of small and medium-sized companies trading on the London Stock Exchange, will be presented March 10. More info: www.plc-awards.co.uk

P&G Is Top Advertiser In Czech Republic

• CZECH REPUBLIC: P&G was the top advertiser in the Czech Republic in 2010, spending approximately $83 million on ads, according to data from Kantar Media, published by the Czech News Agency. P&G knocked Unilever CR from the top position on the list of the 20 biggest advertisers in 2010. Unilever came in third, with Henkel netting the second spot overall, spending about $81 million. L’Oréal, at approximately $49 million, was fifth and Reckitt Benckiser was listed in ninth place. Kantar Media’s list of the 20 biggest advertisers in the Czech Republic is based on advertising price lists; it does not take into account quantity discounts and barter contracts, according to the report. March 2011

International

PZ Cussons Forms New Beauty Division

• ENGLAND: PZ Cussons has formed the PZ Cussons Beauty Division, a strategic move designed to maximize the potential, both in the UK and internationally, of its portfolio of premium beauty brands St Tropez, The Sanctuary and Charles Worthington. Michelle Feeney, currently chief executive officer of St Tropez, has been appointed to the new position of CEO of PZ Cussons Beauty, bringing to the role both extensive experience, and a history of delivering growth. She will report to Alex Kanellis, group chief executive of PZ Cussons, and will be supported by managing directors Ann Murray (UK) and Selma Terzic (International), who have held lead roles in the Group’s Sanctuary and St Tropez businesses respectively. The division will be fully operational by June 1 and will be based in Covent Garden, London. PZ Cussons UK will be responsible for the group’s core washing and bathing portfolio, including Imperial Leather, Original Source and Carex. “Following the acquisition of St Tropez in September 2010, the Group has reviewed options for the most effective structure to drive the profitable growth of the brand on a global scale,”said Kanellis.“Given the similarities and synergies which already exist between St Tropez, The Sanctuary and Charles Worthington, the creation of the beauty division was the logical next step in ensuring that we realize the full potential of these three outstanding beauty brands and maximize their presence internationally.” “I am thrilled to be taking on such an exciting role and I believe there is a significant opportunity for all three brands to grow both in the UK and internationally,” said Feeney, who transformed St Tropez since joining the business in 2006 and, prior to this, spent 11 years at Estée Lauder.“It is a unique position – we are creating a new division, headquartered in London with a core stable of British brands. The role enables me to utilize my global experience and brand building skills to take these much loved UK ranges to new markets around the world.” March 2011

Medicinal Skin Care Products From Shiseido • JAPAN: Shiseido has rolled out a new line of medicinal skin care products for women between 20-40 years old. The new line, called Ihada, will be stocked at approximately 2,000 drugstores nationwide.

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The first product available will be a treatment for acne and dry skin caused by inflammation. Shiseido will reportedly expand the lineup with the goal of generating several billion yen in sales over the next three years, according a report in The Nikkei. •

happi • 23

Marketing News

AVON LAUNCHES 125TH ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION partners in global efforts to stop violence against women including: the United Nations Trust Fund to End Violence Against Women; Vital Voices and the U.S. State Department to establish the Global Partnership to End Violence Against Women; and Cornell University Law School for the creation of the Avon Global Center for Women and Justice. “As the company for women, Avon feels an obligation and responsibility to play a leadership role in helping to improve the lives of women around the world, and we truly believe we can make a difference,” said Jung.

Reese Witherspoon celebrates all things Avon with CEO Andrea Jung.

• Avon’s global ambassador Reese Witherspoon joined Avon chairman and CEO Andrea Jung in January to launch the company’s 125th anniversary year with a celebration in Atlanta, GA for more than 5,000 Avon representatives. The event was part of the 16-city “Avon Believe World Tour”to celebrate the company’s heritage and belief in its mission to empower women. Throughout 2011, approximately 125,000 Avon representatives are expected to participate in the Avon Believe World Tour as it visits Atlanta, Dallas, Los Angeles, London, Istanbul, New York, Chicago, Mexico City, Warsaw, Moscow, São Paulo, Buenos Aires, Manila, Shanghai, New Delhi and Johannesburg. Special guests such as Fergie, Patrick Dempsey, Suze Orman, Zoe Saldana and Yasmin Le Bon are expected to make appearances at many of the events. During the event in Atlanta, Witherspoon and Jung announced the creation of a new $1 million Avon Global Believe Fund that will launch a pioneering global effort to support women’s domestic violence shelters and agencies in each of the 16 cities on the tour. The Avon Foundation for Women will partner with the National Network to End Domestic Violence (NNEDV) to identify and fund an international network of outstanding nonprofit organizations to help them provide critical life-saving services for victims of domestic violence and their families. This global effort also aims to draw attention to the alarming lack of adequate services for women and children who are victims of domestic violence in communities everywhere. Avon’s new $1 million commitment is in addition to the company’s previously announced financial donations to other major 24 • happi

• Reveal by Halle Berry is a new, floral woody fragrance that speaks to the iconic beauty’s glamour and confidence while revealing the intriguing complexity of a woman, according to its maker, Coty. “Halle Berry is one of Hollywood’s greatest treasures but despite her public persona, she remains an enigma. Reveal is about the mystery behind the woman; that indescribable quality that captivates and intrigues us,” said Steve Mormoris, senior vice president global marketing Coty Beauty. It was created in partnership with Richard Herpin of Firmenich. • Calling all superwomen! To lend a hand to over-extended, multi-tasking mavens, GoodSkin Labs will use its GoodSkin Labs Circle—a group of real women brand ambassadors—to celebrate busy women and provide encouragement, inspiration and tips. The circle will provide life and beauty solutions to help women flawlessly solve some of life’s little daily dilemmas and fit in some welldeserved “me” time. “As a brand that is dedicated to providing women with solutions that deliver both instant results and long term skin care benefits, it only seems right to help these same women find the instant time-saving tips that will yield them more ‘me’ time in the future,” said Julie Howard, senior vice president, marketing of GoodSkin Labs. “We are now bringing together our products, skin care expertise, and real women ambassadors to help over-extended women, not just look better but feel better.” A public service announcement, starring video testimonials from the GoodSkin Labs Circle members, will also help raise awareness for the plight of multi-tasking superwomen who need easy tips that allow them to schedule more time to be good to themselves. More info: www.goodskinlabs.com/circle • Jennifer Lopez has added “Venus Goddess” to her resume. The actress/singer and global star has been named the first-ever global ambassador for Gillette Venus. Lopez will star in all elements

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March 2011

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Marketing News

of the brand’s 2011 holistic marketing campaign, supporting the total brand portfolio, including TV and print advertising, public relations, digital, social media and in-store communications. The campaign also includes her exclusive remake of the iconic Venus song, plus the launch of a new philanthropic effort called the Venus Goddess Fund for Education. “The Venus brand empowers women and speaks to the ‘goddess’ in every one of us. Every woman is a goddess in her own right when we Jennifer Lopez was named the let our best feminine self shine latest Venus Goddess. through. Venus keeps my legs looking beautiful, giving me the confidence to feel just like a goddess,” said Lopez. According to Gillette, the Venus Goddess Fund for Education will carry the brand’s goddess message to a whole new level by enabling global educational opportunities for women, through partnership with organizations such as CARE International, the Step

Up Women’s Network and Lopez’s own Maribel Foundation. Founded by Lopez and her sister, the mission of The Maribel Foundation is dedicated to improving the health and wellbeing of women and children including raising the level of medical care available to them. “Jennifer is a Venus Goddess in every sense of the word. Our brand celebrates the multi-dimensionality of women, and no one embodies that more than her,” said Sonia Fife, general manager, Global Venus, P&G Beauty. “You’re not just a goddess in the big moments in life, but in the little ones, too. Jennifer shared much of her personal experience as part of this campaign, and she’s every bit a goddess relaxing at home with her children, or performing on-stage, showing off those rock star legs.”

• During National Children’s Dental Health Month, natural personal care leader Nature’s Gate partnered with Radius toothbrushes to offer discounts on both brands’ products via each other’s websites. Nature’s Gate offered 40% off of a Radius purchase with every Nature’s Gate order placed via www.shopnatures-gate.com. Radius offered 40% off of a Nature’s Gate toothpaste purchase with every toothbrush purchase made via its website. More info: www.radiustoothbrush.com

Some people would go to the ends of the earth for silkier, shinier hair.

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Marketing News

• Nine d’Urso is the new face of Bottega Veneta’s first fragrance for women, a yet-to-be-named scent set to be on counters in September. d’Urso is the French-Italian daughter of the French fashion icon Inès de la Fressange and the late Italian businessman and art merchant Luigi d’Urso. The agreement with Coty marks the first time that d’Urso has represented a brand of any kind. “Nine d’Urso is a natural choice to represent Bottega Veneta’s first women’s fragrance. Not only is she naturally graceful, but she has an innate, almost aristocratic elegance, true to the brand,”said Françoise Mariez, SVP international European marketing licenses, Coty Prestige. d’Urso has signed on to do print ads for the Bottega Veneta fragrance for a worldwide campaign photographed by Bruce Weber. The Bottega Veneta fragrance, whose name and scent will be announced at a later date, will be on counter in September 2011.

• Shauna-Lea

Leger of Ohio and Kelly Gibson Brown of North Carolina have been named grand prize winners of the Glade Design and Shine Contest. Each will receive $10,000 and their designs will be produced and sold in stores nationwide beginning August 2011. The women’s designs were chosen from more than 100,000 entrants who virtually designed their own Glade Scented Oil

Candle Decorative Glass Holder at www.GladeDesignandShine.com. While Glade fans voted for their favorite designs online, all designs were reviewed based on originality, stylishness and appropriateness to fragrance, and judged by panelists from SC Johnson and Young America. Six additional winners were awarded $750 each.

Here’s a winning entry in the Design and Shine contest.

• Schick Quattro for Women razors has signed on as an official partner of the Katy Perry California Dreams 2011 North American summer tour. Partnering with Katy Perry is part of the Schick Quattro for Women “Dare To Be Spontaneous” promotion which will run through the summer. The theme of spontaneity is woven throughout all elements, tying to the brand promise that Schick Quattro for Women razors provide a shave so smooth, you could skip a shave or two. “Schick Quattro for Women is thrilled to be working with Katy. She embodies the brand’s spontaneous spirit which allows women to be ready for everything,” said Christine Galotti, brand manager.

At Lipo®, we call them scientists®. Nobody knows where the next big ingredient is going to come from. But at Lipo, we never stop looking for it. So along with formulating technologies and platforms that help companies use it, our scientists go to great lengths—and depths—to find the next big idea in skincare, haircare and color cosmetics. After all, beauty may be only skin deep, but at Lipo we dare to look beneath the surface.

BEAUTY IS OUR SCIENCE® www.lipochemicals.com

Marketing News

• Coty Inc. has teamed up with supermodel Heidi Klum to develop and market her new signature fragrance, Heidi Klum Shine. The scent is expected to launch in Fall 2011 and will be managed by Coty Beauty. “I am thrilled to be partnering with Coty on my new fragrance,” said Klum. “Working for a long time on developing a signature scent and watching it finally come to life is so exciting. I never thought my nose would recover from sniffing so many scent combinations but it is all worth it. I want my fragrance to be truly special and head-turning so that people ask the woman who’s wearing it ‘What are you wearing? You smell delicious!’" Heidi Klum

• Saks Fifth Avenue partnered with Skin Research Laboratories’ to host a special brow consultation event in January at the retailer’s New York City flagship store. Brow expert Heidi Evora-Santiago provided complimentary brow consultations and discussed the benefits of NeuveauBrow, Skin Research’s product that promotes and restores fuller, healthier-looking eyebrows in as little as four weeks with an exclusive formula containing peptides, proteins, vitamins and moisturizers that nourish and condition. NeuveauBrow launched exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue during the summer of 2010. A 6ml tube retails for $100 and lasts for one to two months with suggested use.

• Avast me hearties...OPI has captured the bright colors and breathtaking escapades seen in Disney and Jerry Bruckheimer Films’ “Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides” in a soon-tolaunched, limited-edition nail lacquer of the same name. “OPI is thrilled to celebrate the latest film in this beloved series,” said Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, OPI executive VP and artistic director. “The Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides lacquers were inspired by a world filled with mythical mermaids, gleaming treasure, and high-seas adventure. With shades ranging from sage and lavender to khaki gray and pastel pink, these colors are evocative of a warm, tropical setting with a classic nautical influence.” The collection, due out in May, includes Skull & Glossbones (a light gray), Mermaid’s Tears (a green), Steady as She Rose (pink), Planks a Lot (purple), Sparrow Me The Drama (cool pink), Stranger Tide (sage) and Silver Shatter, a special two-texture silver. • P&G has rolled out Mr. Clean with Febreze in two new scents: New Zealand Springs and Hawaiian Aloha. The New Zealand Springs scent is inspired by New Zealand’s south island, and the Hawaiian Aloha scent finds its inspiration in vivid yellow hibiscus, which is the state flower of Hawaii, according to the company. To support the launch, Mr. Clean will visit Mall of America in 28 • happi

Minneapolis and Union Station in Chicago to introduce shoppers to the latest exotic scents. Shoppers will receive a free bottle of one of the new SKUs and also have the opportunity to take a photo with Mr. Clean himself.

• The 2011 TNS Product of the Year USA awards ceremony was held in New York City, and several leading household and personal product companies walked away with accolades. Hosted in 28 countries, Product of the Year is billed as the world’s largest consumer-voted program that recognizes innovation in consumer packaged goods. This year marks the third annual round of Product of the Year in the U.S. with more than 60,000 American shoppers voting on products in a survey conducted by the research agency TNS. “Consumers are smarter than ever and watching what they spend more intelligently,” said Phil Lempert, the “Supermarket Guru,” who was on hand at the event. “Even though mobile devices and social networks offer just about every product review possible, it is still the ‘human’ social network that is the most powerful. With over 60,000 shoppers voting on the most innovative for a Product of the Year award, there is not a better recommendation.” The following products were voted Product of the Year in their categories: Speed Stick and Lady Speed Stick Stainguard Antiperspirant Deodorant by Colgate-Palmolive (personal care); Aquafresh Iso-Active Whitening by GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare (toothpaste); Listerine Zero by Johnson & Johnson Healthcare Products Division of McNeil-PPC, Inc. (mouthwash); Pantene Pro-V Customized Solutions by Procter & Gamble (hair care); Pantene Pro-V Customized Solutions Stylers & Treatments by Procter & Gamble (hair styling); Gillette Fusion ProGlide Power Razor by Procter & Gamble (male grooming); Air Wick Air Freshener from Reckitt Benckiser (air care); Lysol Healthy Touch NoTouch Hand Soap System from Reckitt Benckiser (personal hygiene); Raid Max Bug Barrier by S.C. Johnson & Son, Inc. (insecticide); MD Lash Factor Eyelash Conditioner from La Canada Ventures, Inc. (cosmetics); and no!no! Hair 8800 by Radiancy, Inc. (at-home beauty treatment). • A study conducted by Dr. Charles Gerba, professor of environmental microbiology at the University of Arizona, in partnership with The Clorox Company, found that plenty of bacteria are enrolled at schools across the country. To help teach healthy habits that help prevent the spread of germs, Clorox has created Clorox Classrooms, a teacher-focused website developed with education experts that provides tools and resources to help reinforce healthy habits in the classroom and in the home. The website features new curriculum, including science-focused lesson plans, take-home activities and whiteboard activities for grades K-2 and 3-5 that were developed by teachers for teachers, meet national educational standards and use the latest classroom technologies to make learning about germs and hygiene exciting and fun for kids.

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March 2011

Marketing News

In addition, Clorox invited eligible K-5 teachers to visit Clorox Classrooms to enter the Free Books Sweepstakes for a chance to win a 50-book prize package for their classrooms. “We believe these new tools will help teachers make learning about cleanliness through science-based curriculum both fun and interactive,” said Laura Yost, group manager for public relations at The Clorox Company. “Students will learn how to help prevent the spread of germs with educational handouts, videos and books, and by working together to conduct grade-specific science experiments and report on their findings.” According to Clorox, some of the surfaces in schools with the highest number of bacteria include desks, pencil sharpeners, cafeteria tables and water fountains.

• Women’s wear fashion label Nada enlisted a ScanLife-wearing, groove-dancing flash mob to kick off its new fragrance. Nada Dancing Day took to the streets of Toronto with more than 60 dancers, and 1980s-style boom box, the Rolling Stones and new fragrance vial samplers sporting mobile-app-friendly barcodes. According to Nada Shepherd, creative director and founder of the self-named women’s wear label, “the Nada signature fragrance is for women who are looking for something a little edgy, a little interesting, and a flash mob builds into an Nada’s new scent. amazingly exciting personal experience, just like our fragrance.” Blended by custom perfumery Aromachology, the Nada fragrance is available in the new pop-up store in Toronto’s Bayview Village and online across North America at www.NADAdesigns.com for $149 per 100ml/3.4oz bottle. More info: www.NADAdesigns.com

• The BobCar—billed as America’s first Mobile Beauty Boutique—made its debut at the Personal Care Products Council 2011 Annual Meeting at the end of February. So, what exactly is it? The BobCar Mobile Beauty Boutique is a zero-emission electric vehicle placed in highly-trafficked areas where people can speak with trained brand ambassadors, try the latest colors, smell new fragrances and experiment with beauty care products. It offers a new way to involve consumers whenever they leave their homes, office, entertainment centers or just make the street scene, according to its creator. “Our patented BobCars have already increased sales figures up to 200% in past campaigns with some of our Technologybased clients. That’s real selling power, and we are fully synergistic with the local stores’ efforts. A definite win-win for all concerned,”said Benjamin Cohen, founder and president of BobCar Experiential Media/ 30 • happi

In addition, Cohen, has tapped Annette Green, president emeritus of The Fragrance Foundation, as BobCar’s “Beauty Brand Spokesperson."

• Maybelline New York rolled out a new website that gives users innovative ways to explore products, lessons, videos and educational content using engaging and multi-faceted search tools, according to the company. This is the first time Maybelline is using multi-faceted search in its“Explorer”tools, located throughout the site experience to help users discover all the brand has to offer and find which products and trends are best for them. The new Maybelline.com will inspire and connect with the most discerning of beauty consumers by showcasing a unique, fashion forward brand point of view. The site’s NYC365 section will have an editorial feel, with new content updated daily. “Maybelline’s new website is our first and most important step toward a new consumer-centric digital ecosystem,” said Sebastian Simpson, director of global digital media and internet for Maybelline New York.“Content, engagement and innovation will continue to fuel our digital footprint as our upcoming efforts will focus strongly on social and mobile.” “Consumers desire and demand more than just product information,” said Kristen Yraola, assistant vice president of digital media and internet for Maybelline New York-Garnier-Essie. “We want Maybelline.com to be their go-to online beauty resource. The site experience is more editorial, with new content updated daily that is based on trends from the street as well.”

• During the NFL Super Bowl XLV in Dallas, skin care expert and celebrity esthetician Renée Rouleau was bouncing around the finest hotels pampering celebrity skin. Rouleau was also involved at the ultra-chic Style Icon Super Bowl Gifting Lounge hosted by “Modern Family” beauty Sofia Vergara at the Rosewood Crescent Hotel. The exclusive event attracted the best celebrities, sports legends and the world’s most influential guests that were in Dallas for the Big Game. Renée met with and gifted her Triple Berry Smoothing Peel to Vergara, Taylor Armstrong from “The Real Housewives of Beverly Hills,” Rebecca Mader from “Lost” and Joe Manganiello from “True Blood.” Jennifer Aniston and Adam Sandler were also gifted with Renée Rouleau Skin Care products.

• Online voting is taking place for Tom’s of Maine’s annual Dental Health for All (DHFA) program at www.tomsofmaine.com. A public vote will decide which five mobile dental clinics will split $100,000 to help grow and support programs that offer critical, easy-to-access dental care to those in need. With DHFA, Tom’s of Maine is working to make a significant impact in reaching families and individuals who are going without dental coverage or who are unable to afford a yearly exam. In 2011, the company is focusing on “Goodness to Go,” bringing funding and services directly to the people who need it most via mobile dental programs. •

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March 2011

Regulations

ACI CALLS FOR COORDINATION OF GREEN CHEMISTRY GUIDELINES There is no apparent coordination between California agencies that are charged with publishing rules affecting chemicals in commerce, which would result in confusion among stakeholders and the public and likely duplication of efforts, according to the American Cleaning Institute (ACI), formerly The Soap and Detergent Association. In a Feb. 15, 2011 document sent to the California Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment (OEHHA), ACI offered detailed suggestions on the agency’s proposed regulations that would create a toxics information clearinghouse. ACI said that OEHHA should coordinate with the Department of Toxic Substances Control (DTSC), which is charged with issuing rules to create “Safer Consumer Product Alternatives” regulations under the state’s Green Chemistry Initiative. ACI also questioned OEHHA’s definitions of chemical“hazard traits,” saying there is confusion about these traits throughout the entire package of proposed regulations. Similarly, language attempting to classify certain chemicals’ particular hazard traits are “unnecessary, unauthorized and in some cases duplicative.” In separate communications, the Green Chemistry Alliance (which counts ACI as a member) expressed concern over the proposed regulation for green chemistry hazard traits. More info: www.cleaninginstitute.org

•

SC Johnson Approaches Senate, Calls for TSCA Modernization

• Kelly M. Semrau, senior vice president, global corporate affairs, communication and sustainability for SC Johnson, recently testified on behalf of the company before the Senate Subcommittee on Superfund, Toxics and Environmental Health of the Committee on Environment and Public Works on the need to modernize the Toxic Substances Control Act (TSCA). “There is a clear consumer and business case for modernizing

NAD Rules on Vaseline’s Sheer Infusion Body Lotion

• The National Advertising Division of the Council of Better Business Bureaus has determined that Unilever U.S. can support certain moisture claims for the company’s Vaseline Sheer Infusion Body Lotion (VSI), but recommended that Unilever stop claims that compare VSI to“leading everyday body lotions.” NAD, the advertising industry’s self-regulatory forum, reviewed claims made for VSI in broadcast, print and internet advertising following a challenge by Johnson & Johnson. It noted in its decision that Unilever has the initial burden of presenting a 32 • happi

TSCA, a statute that has not been modified in more than a generation,” said Semrau.“Chemically-formulated products can be found under nearly every kitchen sink in America, and the chemical management of these products has evolved beyond current regulation.” Specifically, Semrau focused on four key areas: • Balancing Transparency: Transparency is imperative, but it has to balance the desire to inform and empower consumers with the need to protect legitimate confidential business information. • Providing Adequate Use, Exposure and Toxicity Information: Understanding and addressing data gaps and ensuring the EPA has timely, adequate information on chemical hazards, exposures and uses is a critical part of modernization. It means that companies such as SC Johnson would agree to a new reporting responsibility, but Semrau stated this was necessary to properly inform the chemical safety evaluation process. • Promoting Greener Chemistries: SC Johnson regularly invests in green chemistry, whether through its Greenlist process or the partnership with the EPA’s Design for the Environment (DfE) program. Green chemistry is an avenue for motivating the selection of better, safer raw materials and TSCA modernization should promote the transition to more sustainable alternatives. • Ensuring Adequate Time to Respond to New Requirements: TSCA modernization needs to move ahead, but it is important to ensure that the chemical industry has sufficient time to transform itself and implement the technological and scientific tools needed to modernize TSCA. “We believe it simply makes good business sense to bring TSCA into the 21st century, while still protecting and enhancing the spirit of innovation that lies at the heart of SC Johnson, the consumer products industry and the U.S. economy,”she concluded. •

reasonable basis for its claims. If NAD finds that a reasonable basis exists, the burden shifts to the challenger to show that the advertiser’s evidence is fatally flawed, according to the bureau. In this case, Unilever relied upon multiple studies and measurements of the presence of moisture—made primarily by the Skicon 200EX—as support for comparative claims that referenced “superior moisture”or“twice the moisture,”NAD determined that the evidence demonstrated that VSI caused a relative change in moisture levels twice that of the competing products and found the claims supported. However, NAD recommended that Unilever modify the product’s advertising.

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March 2011

Patent Review

L’ORÉAL PATENTS COMPOSITION FOR WASHING KERATIN FIBERS • U.S. Patent No. 7,867,969 B2; L’Oréal S.A., Paris, France, has patented a keratin fiber wash composition that contains a magnesium salt anionic surfactant. An aqueous medium contains an anionic surfactant in the form of a magnesium salt and a second anionic surfactant different from the first, selected from the group consisting of the sodium salts of polyoxyalkylenated (C6-24 alkyl) ether carboxylic acids, at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, at least one oxyethylenated sorbitan ester, and at least one polymer chosen from cationic polymers and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers. Foam Cleaning Composition Patented by Ecolab

• U.S. Patent No. 7,879,785 B2; Ecolab Inc., St. Paul, MN, has patented a method for foaming a cleaning composition. It entails mixing a cleaning composition and air in a mechanical foaming head to generate a foam without the use of a non-air containing propellant. The cleaning composition is comprised of surfactant, water and a glycol ether solvent consisting of one or more glycol ethers. The weight ratio of the glycol ether solvent to the total amount of surfactant is at least 1:100.

New Dental Agent • U.S. Patent No. 7,879,315 B2;

Showa Yakuhin Kako Co., Ltd., Tokyo, has patented an agent for dissolving dental calculi. It is comprised of a composition that contains glycolic acid and an aqueous extract from Perillafrutescens var. crispa flutescen purpurea comprising rosmarinic acid. The aqueous extract and the glycolic acid are active in an amount effective enough to dissolve dental calculus.

Stain Resistant Compositions • U.S. 7,879,112 B2; Invista North America has patented a stain-resistant composition. The aqueous emulsion contains a 34 • happi

crosslinking agent that has at least one polymer having two hydroxyl-terminated groups, wherein the crosslinking agent does not include an epoxy group and is a polybutadiene; and a stain-resistant agent comprising at least one polymer selected from polymethacrylic acid, hydrolyzed maleic anhydride copolymerized with at least one monomer, and a mixture thereof. The crosslinking agent covalently binds the stain-resistant agent to a substrate comprising polyamide fibers.

cleaning mixture composition and lowers an emission of exhaust of the manufacturing process. The abrasive powders boost a suction power between the cleaning mixture composition and the working surface to shovel up the substances adhered onto the surface. The colloid material and the resin are equipped with an adhesion property to viscously grip the substances bonded onto the working surface.

Detergent Composition From Everlight USA

• U.S. 7,879,779 B2; Shiseido Co., Ltd.,

• U.S. Patent No. 7,879,786 B1; Everlight USA, Inc., Pineville, NC, has patented a detergent composition that contains an alkali metal hydroxyl compound, a nonionic surfactant, an anionic surfactant, a chelating agent, an additive and water.

L’Oréal Patents Hair Dye, Kit • U.S. Patent No. 7,879,113 B2; L’Oréal S.A., Paris, has patented a composition for dyeing or lightening human keratin fibers. It is comprised of a cosmetically acceptable medium; at least one fatty substance; at least one silicate chosen from smectite, vermiculite, stevensite and chlorite clays; at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes and direct dyes; at least one basifying agent; and at least one oxidizing agent.

Shiseido Patents Oil-Cleansing Composition

has patented an oil-based cleansing composition. It is comprised of a nonionic surfactant having a HLB of 8 to 10 and an oil component. The IOB of the oil component is 0.02 to 0.07, and the mass ratio of first component (A) and second component (B) is 1:4 to 2:1. The oil-based cleansing composition satisfies the following conditions: the amount of water in the composition is less than 5% by mass, and a micellar aqueous solution phase or a bicontinuous microemulsion phase is formed when said oil-based cleansing composition and water are mixed in the ratio of 4:6. The micellar aqueous solution phase is optically isotropic exhibiting a clear to slightly blue, translucent appearance, and the bicontinuous microemulsion phase is optically isotropic exhibiting a transparent appearance.

Cleaning Superficially Adhered Substances

• U.S. Patent 7,867,967 B2; Huei Zong

Liquid Lamellar Composition Resistant to Viscosity Change • U.S. Patent 7,879,781 B2; Conopco,

Hang Co., Ltd., Changhua, Taiwan, has patented a cleaning mixture designed to clean superficially adhered substances. It consists of a colloid material, resin, abrasive powders, stabilizer, fibers and natural turpentine that are bonded together. The composition has high density and high binding, cohesive and adhesive capacities. The natural turpentine greatly reduces a manufacturing temperature in the processing of the

Inc., Englewood Cliffs, NJ, has patented a liquid lamellar composition comprising surfactant; a lamellar structuring system comprising lauric acid and lauryl alcohol; emollient oil; and trihydroxystearin as emollient oil structurant. The composition has initial viscosity of ≧80,000 cps to 150,000 cps. and a viscosity, after freeze thaw testing of ≧80,000 to 150,000 cps. It is phase stable after exposure at 50°C for 10 days. •

happi.com

March 2011

NEW DATE:

June 28-30, 2011 Jacob K. Javits Convention Center New York, NY www.hbaexpo.com

Where Beauty

Meets Business

To reserve your exhibit space, contact your sales representative today. Ellen Evers, SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE [email protected] 201.788.0352 Kevin Roach, ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE [email protected] 609.759.7607 Emanuela Treneva, INTERNATIONAL SALES DIRECTOR [email protected] +33 (0) 1 73 28 14 76

Gleams & Notions

A HYDROQUINONE ALTERNATIVE IS AVAILABLE FROM COGNIS Skin lighteners are widely used in many parts of Asia.

H

YDROQUINONE (dihydroxybenzene) at a 2% concentration is still a common skin lightening agent in the U.S., even though it is banned in Europe and some Asian countries. Other skin lighteners include kojic acid and magnesium

Harvey M. Fishman Consultant Harvey Fishman has a consulting firm located at 34 Chicasaw Drive, Oakland, NJ 07436, [email protected], specializing in cosmetic formulations and new product ideas, offering tested finished products. He has more than 30 years of experience and has been director of research at Bonat, Nestlé LeMur and Turner Hall. He welcomes descriptive literature from suppliers and bench chemists and others in the field.

36 • happi

ascorbal phosphate. Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, a division of Cognis Corporation (now owned by BASF), has introduced a new skin whitener called Radianskin PW LS 9918 (INCI: Hydroxy-phenoxy propionic acid). This white-to-beige powder is soluble in water at a concentration of 0.5-1% at a pH of 4-7. Radianskin PW LS 9918 at 4% is soluble in both butylene glycol and glyceryl cocoate-7 but insoluble in fats and oils. As for safety factors, it is claimed to be non-cytotoxic, non-sensitizing, non-mutagenic, non-phototoxic and causes no skin irritation. Radianskin, unlike hydroquinone, only decreases the melanin pigment production and does not destroy melanocytes. It also demonstrates good photo-protective action, as it helps to protect the skin against UV-induced damage. Cell culture tests were conducted on B16 melanocytes with the following results. Used at very low levels, Radianskin strongly decreases melanogenesis and exhibits a better depigmenting effect than ascorbyl glucoside, kojic acid, arbutin and a similar effect as hydroquinone. Apparently, it has no effect on tyrosinase. It does not directly inhibit the enzyme or its activity in melanocytes. Radianskin acts on melanogenesis through an inhibition of melanin release by melanocytes. A cell culture medium was also used to evaluate the ability of Radianskin to protect epidermal keratinocytes in the presence of an inflammatory dose of UV light. The results showed a photo-protective and antiinflammatory effect on human skin that helps to prevent sun damage caused by UV radiation. Another test conducted on human skin was to evaluate the ability of Radianskin to penetrate the skin. The tests indicated that Radianskin penetrated happi.com

through the stratum corneum barrier and was delivered into the skin. Below is a suggested formula which illustrates a method of using Radianskin. Ingredients: %WT. Phase A Glyceryl stearate (and) ceteareth-20 5.0 (and) ceteareth-12 (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) cetyl palmitate Hydrogenated vegetable glycerides 2.0 Caprylic capric triglyceride 4.0 Hexyldecanol (and) hexyldecyl 4.0 laurate Propylheptyl caprylate 3.0 Vegetable oil 3.0 Titanium dioxide 0.5 Phase B Water q.s. 100% Glycerin 5.0 Propylene glycol (and) 2.5 phenoxyethanol (and) chlorphenesin (and) methyl paraben Sodium stearoyl glutamate 0.5 Xanthan gum 0.4 Magnesium aluminum silicate 1.0 Radianskin PW LS 9918 1.0 Sodium hydroxide 16% q.s. pH 5.0 PROCEDURE: With constant stirring, heat phase B in main tank to 75-80°C. Heat phase A to same temperature in another container and add to main tank. Avoid incorporating air. Homogenize if necessary. Cool to room temperature. The above formula is a soft emulsion that lightens skin and protects it from UV damage due to the presence of titanium dioxide and Radianskin. In the oil phase, the first ingredient is an O/W self-emulsifying cream base, and the other ingredients are emollients. In the water phase, the two gums, magnesium aluminum silicate and xanthan, provide viscosity, while the second item is the preservative. Sodium stearoyl glutamate is a co-emulsifier. Radianskin, of course, is the active skin lightening ingredient. • March 2011


 
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NATURALS • SUN CARE • PRESERVATION

innovating possibility ™

EuroTrends

GROOM FOR IMPROVEMENT IN THE MEN’S MARKET

R

ESULTS HAVE BEEN mixed in the Euro-

pean male grooming category in the past year with some countries posting gains and others losses. This was a marked difference to 2009 when all countries in the Big 5 reported gains in value terms. Many have pointed to a certain apathy creeping into the sector, as attention to launching new male grooming SKUs has waned as manufacturers increasingly chased after the female euro and pound. Another possible explanation for the apathy was that this sector’s launch activity has yet to get going again properly after many arrivals were put on hold during the recent recession with only one or two key areas seeing real investment.

Movement for Mass According to the latest figures from Mintel, the French male grooming market managed to eek out a 0.7% gain in 2010 to reach $1.3 billion. However, mass-market sales have been much more buoyant with SymphonyIRI France reporting some good gains in key areas. The third biggest sector of the French male grooming market, that of shower gels, put on a very healthy 6.4% to $93 million (for sales through supermarkets and hypermarkets)

Katie Middleweek Editor, European Cosmetic Markets European Cosmetic Markets is published monthly by HPCi Media Limited. It provides in-depth data and analysis of the European cosmetics and toiletries market. For subscription details contact HPCi Media Limited, Tel: (44) 0207 193 7447 • Fax: (44) 20 7549 8622

38 • happi

while deodorants for men also grew 2.3% to $267 million. However, the much smaller sector of skin care registered the most growth, 7.6%, to $36 million in 2010. This sector often incorporates shaving products and this is where a good portion of the NPD activity was focused in France in the past year, and was certainly the case when it came to domestic stalwart L’Oréal. The latest shaving innovations in France focused on ensuring that the skin stayed protected and moisturized. From the L’Oréal stable, LaScad brand Mennen introduced Xtreme ProtecMore men are thinking about the products tion, a grooming line that they use in the shower. featuring a soap-free, moisturizing shaving gel, and a shaving fared in the past year, but general reports mousse that is boosted by softening agents from industry insiders point to a rather static and glycerine to protect skin from irritation. year, with no real movement in any direcAn aftershave balm, formulated with alum tion. This could, perhaps, be do to the fact and allantoin, claims to help repair, protect that manufacturers have targeted German and calm skin. And, earlier this year, the Men men less in the past year, possibly because Expert line introduced Sensitive Shave Gel of budget constraints or possibly because of and two new Anti-Irritation shaving prod- an apathy that is creeping into the sector as ucts, a gel and a foam, each featuring the a whole. When it came to NPD, there was brand’s new Skin Protect System which little of it from the multinationals, although contains two silicones instead of one to help it was good to see that home grown chamimprove glide and create a protective barrier pion Beiersdorf had some new activity in its to reduce friction. popular Nivea for Men line. Firstly, Nivea focused on skin care by rolling out the new DNAge Lift for men Domestic Dedication product, which it claims is its most advanced At press time, no figures were available on how the German male grooming sector had anti-aging moisturizer within the Nivea for happi.com

March 2011

EuroTrends

Men series. The product is said to be scientifically proven to reduce wrinkles and firm the skin thanks to its Collagen Activating Complex, an effective combination of creatine and guarana which improves the skin’s elasticity and gives a lifting effect. Later in the year, the company moved on to shaving care with its new Arctic Freeze Aftershave Gel Fluid, which contains arctic freeze cooling agents along with guarana to refresh and moisturize the skin after shaving as well as controlling the oil balance in the skin.

Male Looking Pale There was disappointing news in Italy as the male grooming sector there struggled in the past year, falling 1.9% to $743 million, according to Italian trade group Unipro. Aftershave lotions suffered a particular loss of form, dropping 3.5% to $93.6 million, while men’s fragrances also lost 2.1% to $462 million in the past year. The normally popular category of shaving products slipped 1.7% to $120 million. One of the few sectors to make a gain was skin care, which rose 1.2% to $67 million. Unilever, with its many brands, is always a popular choice among Italian consumers and its Clear shampoo line has been a mass-market favorite when it comes to tackling the common problem of dandruff. In 2010, the company debuted a line of products specifically for men, called Clear Men, comprising a shampoo available in five references. These were Clear Action 2in-1, Clear Purifying, Clear Ice Fresh, Clear Anti Hair Loss and Clear Sensitive 2-in-1. The products feature zinc pyrithione and vitamins A, B and E, which are said to rid hair of dandruff with continuous use.

was that of male body treatments which plummeted 20%. Spanish consumers are always excited by new formats and some of the latest developments which have been a hit with Spanish men are the new generation of roll-on products designed for an array of uses, ranging from products formulated to combat undereye circles and bags to acne touch-ups or aromatherapy solutions to combat stress and fatigue. Leading brand L’Oréal Men Expert introduced Hydra Energetic, a double action roll-on format to quickly stimulate and drain congested areas around eyes. In the selective channel, fellow L’Oréal brand Biotherm Homme launched Force Supreme Re-Builder in 2010. It is a roll-on, anti-aging massager which firms skin in three ways—firming double chins, smoothing wrinkles and eliminating bags by “redefining, re-firming and revitalizing”skin care, according to the company.

Britain Bucks the Trend The UK male grooming market, including razors and blades, did buck the general trend by growing 3% last year to $1.3 billion, according to data from Kantar Worldpanel. Volume sales rose 2% to 328 million units. The male grooming market was made up mostly of deodorants and bodysprays, $431 million; male fragrances, $209 million; skin care, $145 million; shower products,

$142 million and lastly, shaving preparations, $115 million. Although shaving preparations is the smallest category overall, actual shaving hardware is going from strength to strength in the UK. British brand King of Shaves is often cited as something of a trailblazer when it comes to ergonomic design in shaving hardware and 2010 saw King of Shaves launch the Azor M Alloy System Razor, which debuted in February last year, and Azor M Sensitive, which joined the Azor M on store shelves last October. The Azor M has a hybrid metal alloy and polyastomer handle, while the sensitive version combines the alloy razor’s weightier handle with the softer, more flexible hinge of the Azor S. Both are said to give the brand’s closest, most comfortable shave yet. Looking back on the past year’s activity in the Big 5, it can be seen that much of the recent NPD activity for men either focused on skin care needs or the process of shaving and its associated products. While other sectors that are perhaps more utilitarian, such as deodorants and hair products, may not have seen much NPD activity, it seems that skin care and shaving are two areas to watch in terms of investment and innovation. Although it is hoped that a wider focus on the category in general going forward might help to kick start it again and get those sluggish sales figures moving once more—definitely a case of groom for improvement. •

Men are more willing to treat wrinkles. But are they really ready for Botox?

Spanish Slump According to the latest data from SymphonyIRI Spain, the male grooming market posted disappointing results in both value and volume terms in 2010. Sales of face and body, shaving and aftershave products fell 7% to $105 million. Meanwhile, volume fared only slightly better, falling by a rather less worrying 1% to five million units. The hardest hit individual category March 2011

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happi • 39

A Strategic Point of View

TESCO TRIALS SALONS IN TWO UK CENTERS

I

T MAY NOT SEEM A BIG DEAL to those who don’t follow the beauty salon industry, but we think Tesco’s recent decision to trial its own in-house hairdressing salons in two major centers in the UK is indeed a potentially big deal. In the world of European hairdressing, there is still very little consolidation. Yes, there are a few salon chains in the UK, Germany and France, but the one major global consolidator, Regis Corporation from Minneapolis, is still feeling its way here in Europe. Consequently, there aren’t any U.S. style, no-appointment, walk-in Supercuts or Promenades to be found in European strip malls—called shopping centers here—and of course, with no Walmarts, there are no SmartStyles in them either. Walmart’s UK subsidiary, Asda, hasn’t gone down that road, yet. So Tesco’s decision to try out its own version of value-for-money beauty salons looks like having little competition for the time being. The chain apparently plans to open 70 such in-store salons by the end of 2011, offering a variety of services, including hairdressing and nail treatments. We think that if—and it’s a big if—Tesco gets its salon formula right, it could be on to

Tesco is trialing in-house hairdressing salons in two stores in the UK.

marketing development.

a winner. Strategically, the size of the prize is considerable. The beauty salon market in the UK alone is estimated to be worth in the region of $7.5 billion a year, but more importantly, perhaps, is the global opportunity afforded by getting an in-store salon formula right.You only have to look at some of the very revealing statistics on Regis’ corporate website to see why this is the case. Foremost among the data on what Regis calls its “mature salon economics” is average salon cash flow of 27%, and a ratio of cash flow to average capital investment of a staggering 87%. But getting its salon formula right will not be easy for Tesco. Successful beauty salons, or hairdressing salons as they tend to be called in Europe, are based on a very personal relationship between stylists and their customers. Get that right and customers will keep coming back; get it wrong, and the salon will inevitably end up with a row of empty chairs. Cynics are already saying that Tesco will never get the relationship right. But we don’t agree; after all, if SmartStyle can work in Walmart, then why not something similar in Tesco?

Tel: +44-1202-710377 • Fax: +44-1202-710399

P&G Bets on Salon

Colin Hession Colin Hession Consulting Colin Hession is Managing Director of Colin Hession Consulting, a specialist consultancy that focuses exclusively on Personal Care in Europe, in terms of commercial &

e-mail [email protected] web site www.hessioncosmetics.com

40 • happi

Meanwhile, in supplier terms, P&G is getting ready to unleash Wella Professional happi.com

onto North American salons. P&G’s thinking is that launching a complete assortment of products is the first step in becoming No. 1 in the professional market. Establishing flag ship salons, nurturing relationships with stylists and rolling out a consumer ad campaign is all part of the plan to create the House of Wella. P&G acquired the German hair care company, Wella, some seven years ago for nearly $7 billion, but as Robert Jongstra, president of P&G’s global salon business, admits, “the first couple of years after the acquisition, not a lot happened, because six months later the company acquired Gillette, and the choice was made to prioritize the integration of Gillette. And rightly so, because of the size of that business.”But now it seems that the giant is awaking in U.S. professional. The strategic point to note is that this push by the mighty P&G for the top spot in professional hair care will inevitably put more pressure on existing players in the U.S., notably Kao’s KPSS (Goldwell and KMS). It now looks, for example, as if Henkel’s Schwarzkopf may have missed the boat in the States, despite its strength in salons in Europe. And the chances of private equity firm, CVC, being able to exit its investment in Colomer have probably just taken another step backwards. Estimates of market share within global professional hair care are always a bit of a gamble, firstly because the relatively few players keep the numbers very close to their chests, and secondly, definitions vary March 2011

A Strategic Point of View

Coming to an American salon near you?

a lot by region, but for what it’s worth, our estimate is as follows.

Global Professional Hair Care Share Estimates Retail & Back-Bar, End 2010

L’Oréal P&G Kao Henkel Shiseido JP Mitchell Colomer Unilever

27% 24% 7% 6% 5% 4% 2% 1%

Source: Colin Hession Consulting

Beiersdorf Clears the Decks It seems that Beiersdorf has been clearing the decks in order to concentrate on core brands, Nivea and Eucerin. The Hamburgbased company recently sold two of its three prestige brands, namely skin care brand Juvena, as well as premium hair care brand, Marlies Moller. These two “orphan” brands have been sold to privately-owned Troll Cosmetics of Austria—we may be pessimists but we assume that they will now disappear without a trace. This is of little consequence as regards Juvena, which is a rather me-too line of ordinary skin care, but we think it’s a missed opportuAn opportunity missed? nity for Marlies Moller. This line of premiumpriced retail hair care was developed by German hairdresser Marlies Moller, who originally sold to Wella’s Cosmopolitan division; 42 • happi

they couldn’t make it work in prestige stores and so, in turn, sold it on to Beiersdorf, which evidently didn’t do much better. Strategically, no one has really got prestige hair care to work yet, but in our view, Marlies Moller’s line has probably come the nearest in terms of design and presentation. The trouble is that such products really need demonstration, and getting basins and running water into department stores is a nightmare for premium hair care suppliers…but someone will crack it, someday. Meanwhile, how long will Beiersdorf be able to keep its one remaining prestige brand, La Prairie, in the air?

Everything Comes To He Who Waits

development, to work on products related to “the core biology of aging.” Sounds spot on for facial skin care, among other categories. Strategic point, wonder which facial skin care brand is in view? Bit late for Pond’s?

M&A on the Rise M&A is on the rise again, with transactions by trade buyers (large manufacturers), outnumbering those by private equity investors by a 3-to-1 ratio last year. It seems that while the days of private equity paying over the odds for personal care brands and businesses have probably come to an end, there is still good money to be made by owners if they have the right assets to sell. By this, we mean focus on the things which potential acquirers are looking for and you can reasonably expect a happy retirement on that luxury yacht. But spend your time concentrating on things which don’t excite acquirers and disappointment looms—see box below. •

So Calvin Klein has finally realized that Markwins was probably not the right partner for its color cosmetics, and has given the license to Coty from 2012, the original holders of the famous CkOne fragrance license. We nearly said “given back” since the decision Some Dos & Don’ts if You Want not to award Coty the To Sell Your Personal Care Business color cosmetics license in the first instance has alDon’t Do ways puzzled us…still, • Concentrate on creating • Proliferate everything comes to he BRANDS • Relying on a tail of “deal” • The more unique, SKUs to achieve year end who waits. the better

Carrefour Consultants Straws in the wind—Carrefour is trialing the use of beauty consultants in some of its French stores, a new move for the mass retail giant. If successful, no prizes for guessing who’s going to be paying for that one?

Unilever Links With BioLeap Unilever has partnered with BioLeap, a New Jersey-based company that undertakes molecular design for product happi.com

• Be single-minded in terms of product categories • Acquirers don’t pay for make weights

• Stick to your knitting • Just because you’ve got capacity for, say, gardening accessories, doesn’t mean they’ll prove attractive to personal care companies

volume doesn’t add value when it comes to M&A

• Assume you’ll get your money back on all that shiny new engineering • Sadly, most major acquirers have their own plants to fill • Opt for “Feast or Famine” accounting when it comes to results • Acquirers like a consistent bottom line

• Go for quality distribution • One decent listing in a Division 1 national retailer is worth a showing in umpteen regional wheeler-dealers

March 2011

Notes from China

GROWTH OPPORTUNITIES IN PRESTIGE HAIR CARE

S

INCE THE INCREDIBLE growth began in early 1990s, the Chinese hair care market has become one of the largest in the world, ranking only behind the U.S. and Brazil, according to sources. Datamonitor estimated the Chinese market at $2.14 billion in 2009. Of that total, shampoo accounted for 78.9% of sales, conditioners represented 11.6% and all other hair care products combined to account for the remaining 9.5%. In terms of growth opportunities, hair colorants exhibited high growth with a CAGR of 9.4% during the 2004–09 period. Similar to skin care, the hair care market in China has been dominated by familiar international big names, with Procter & Gamble leading the way, followed by Unilever, Beiersdorf, Kao and L’Oréal, according to Euromonitor. Despite this multinational monopoly, domestic players still manage to make it onto the leader board. Those local names joining Euromonitor’s 2009 top 10 list are Bawang (Guangzhou) Co. Ltd., Guangzhou Panda Cosmetics Co. Ltd., Guangzhou Decolor

Ally Dai Happi China Ally Dai is senior editor of Happi China. She has more than 10 years of experience in the cosmetic and food industries. Happi China is a leading media for the China household & personal care industry. Published by Ringier Trade Media in strategic editorial partnership with Happi, it helps local manufacturers update their knowledge on formulating, testing and packaging, as well as providing market insight. Website: www. industrysourcing.com

44 • happi

Co. Ltd. and Younggrace Cosmetic Group International Ltd. The future holds great promise, too. A recent report by China Daily points out that approximately 20% of Chinese people wash their hair every day while 75% of them do so every three days. On a per capita basis, the Chinese spent just $1.79 a year on hair care products in 2009, according to Datamonitor. Therefore, analysts estimate that by the end of 2014, this market will be worth $2.7 billion, with an expected CAGR of 4.9% between 2009 and 2014.

Demanding Consumers While engaged in price competition in the low-end segment of the hair care market for the past few years, both international and domestic manufacturers are now competing ferociously in middle to highend segments with products claiming to contain breakthrough ingredients for more specific functions. As Chinese consumers’ major requirements for hair care are getting more specific, specialized products for moisturizing, repairing, dandruff treatment or straightening effects have been widely adopted, creating competition within the market. Anti-dandruff formulas are of great importance in China’s hair care market, with anti-dandruff products accounting for nearly one-third of total shampoo value sales in China, according to Euromonitor. In fact, Head & Shoulders and Clear (another antidandruff brand), ranked No. 1 and No. 3 respectively by retail value. Repairing is another popular claim among hair care products in the market. According to research conducted by Peking University First Hospital and P&G’s Pantene involving 600 consumers in Beijing, Shanghai and Guangzhou in 2009, 88% of respondents in Shanghai, 70% in Beijing and 58% in Guangzhou said that their hair had been badly damaged. Their attitudes may happi.com

explain the fact that products focusing on repairing hair damage caused by styling and color processing are on the rise. After seeing the great success of early entrants, the vast majority of whom are multinationals, many local manufacturers, especially those with pharmaceutical backgrounds, also launched products with similar function claims, but with emphasis on medicated formulas that are typically based on Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). However, the success of these local brands has been limited, with the exception of Bawang, which is the only domestic brand ranked in Euromonitor’s Top 10 hair care brands for 2009. Overall growth of medicated shampoos was slower than that for standard products, at just 5.3% compared to more than 12% for the latter in 2009, according to Euromonitor. In contrast to standard products, retail distribution of medicated shampoos tends to be rather limited, with products sold primarily through chemists/pharmacies and parapharmacies/drugstores.

Prestige’s Bright Future Like the medicated product sector, sales of premium hair care products lagged, and its sales only accounted for a small percentage of total hair care sales in China. Satinique from Amway, Tsubaki from Shiseido and Asience from Kao ranked as the top three brands in premium hair care in 2009, according to Euromonitor. However, as China’s economy continues to boom, premium products are expected to outperform cheaper rivals in the future, thanks to its current low penetration and growing Chinese middle class, which has more disposable income. The high-end sector is now regarded as the next battleground for hair care manufacturers in China, due to the fact that an increasing number of brands are now entering this sector. While international brands such as L’Oréal, P&G and Shiseido have been March 2011

Notes from China

edly made false claims about two shampoo products last year. However, the company was cleared on charges that its products contain potentially cancerous toxic dioxane by SFDA, which noted the products were “safe to use.” As the hair care market becomes more

crowded and consumers’safety concerns increase, pressure is growing on manufacturers to find new lucrative sectors as well as take more stringent safety measures. What will be the next big trends? Luxury professional hair care and male hair care categories seem promising. •

I N T RO RO D U C I N G . . .

Premium-priced professional hair care products have room to grow in China.

investing heavily in premium products to strengthen their presence in the high-end sector in recent years, local players are eyeing expansion into this sector. The newest high profile newcomer is Yunnan Baiyao Group, one of most recognized TCM manufacturers. Known for its trauma panacea Baiyao Powder in China, the Group launched its first high-end antidandruff hair care series YangYuanQin this January. With such claim as“expert in scalp care” via its patented TCM-based ingredients, this series intends to differentiate itself in the high-end sector.

Troubled by Safety Scandals The Chinese hair care market has never shown more promise, but it is affected by a series of safety scandals in recent years. The recent scandals claimed two victims, Bawang (Guangzhou) and Zhangguang 101 Co Ltd. Famous for shampoos claiming to prevent hair loss, both saw their shares dive on the reports that they were investigated by China food and drug watchdog for products allegedly containing banned chemicals last year. In a statement issued by the State Food and Drug Administration (SFDA) this January, Zhangguang 101 has been fined for using minoxidil, an anti-hypertension drug banned in cosmetic products, in its products bound for the Singapore and Hong Kong markets. Baiwang, which markets the best-selling anti-hair loss brand in China, reportMarch 2011

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The Grayson Report

HOW PERMISSION-TO-BUY PROMOTES THE PRODUCT SALE

I

F YOU GOOGLE “advertising effectiveness” you’ll discover hundreds of thousands of entries. As digital marketing turns the advertising world upside-down and insideout, marketers are scrambling to find the holy grail of more effective messaging for traditional print advertising. Yet, there is very little breakaway from what we’ve been seeing for years. That’s most especially true for prestige marketers who are bound by what they perceive is their “culture” and their older audiences, who are perceived to be more set in their acceptance of new anything—unless perhaps it relates to a really new product, or a new and bigger gift. On the other hand, a few mass marketers have broken through with great Permission-to-Buy (P-T-B) advertising that goes beyond and supplements their traditional, product-oriented magazine advertising. Outstanding Alberto Culver

Permission-To-Buy Enhance Brand Value > Confident Purchase Intent

Category: Real-Direct 1

2

3

Risk & Fear Reduction

Safety Reassurance

A

Guarantee

“Must work...”

B

Free Sample

“Like before I buy...”

C

Trial Size

“Worth a try...”

D

Price-Off

“I'll stock up...”

E

Recommendation

“I’ll trust...”

F

Brand Comparison

“Good as, but cheaper...”

G

Best-Selling

“Must be good - sells so much...”

Doing Good

Enhance Self Esteem

A

Charity

“It’s a Worthy Cause”

B

Green Initiatives

“I’ll be helping...”

C

No Animal Testing

“Good - no cruelty...”

Recommendation A

B

Higher Belief/Trust

Direct: * Authority

“They’re Pros and must know...”

* Friends

“She knows and loved it...”

* Blogs

“Probably worth a try...”

* Internet Reviews

“The real deal - no mistakes...”

* As seen on TV

“Must be reputable...”

Reference Group:

Bask in Aura of...

Suzanne & Bob Grayson Grayson Associates

* Celebrity

“I want to use what she uses...”

* Respected Figure

“I want to be like her...”

Suzanne and Bob Grayson are re-

* Fashionistas/Idols

“I’ll be a leader...”

spected, professional marketers,

* Peers

“I’ll be liked/accepted...”

having spent their careers with the

4

Promotion - Incentive

Extra Value: Real or Imagined

leading companies in the beauty

A

industry before starting their suc-

GWP/PWP

“Look what I got for free...”

B

Price Promotion

“Smart - would pay more later...”

C

Multi-Media Extravaganza*

cessful consulting business in the early 1970s.

5 Their consulting clients have included Avon, Bristol-

Availability A

Myers, Estée Lauder, Procter & Gamble, Revlon and Cover Girl, among others. They reside in San Juan Capistrano, CA and maintain an office in New York City. For more information, they can be reached at [email protected] or

Mass Display/

“Wow! Must see that show...”

Easy to Find - Convenient “Must be important...”

Broad Distribution B

Build It and They Will Come

“They’re experts...Starbucks, nail salons, spas...”

* In-store, mall, internet, crossover brands + - limited only by imagination.

[email protected]

46 • happi

Imagined - Consumer Insight

Copyright: Grayson Associates LLC, 2011

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March 2011

The Grayson Report

TreSemmé product/style sections (so good that Unilever fell under its spell), and P&G’s multi-brand sections (CoverGirl, Pantene, Clairol, Venus, Secret, Olay and Herbal Essences) all have a heavy dose of fashion and style, fun and authority to propel P-T-B. (These 4-page-plus sections are too huge to show here, but if you drop a line to [email protected], you’ll find copies in your mail.)

CoverGirl Gets It Right CoverGirl (CG) continues its obviously successful comparative P-T-B advertising (photo at right of this page), blasting the largest selling prestige mascaras, Lancôme and Dior. In-store, CG’s bright orange floor displays feature its orange container LashBlast vs. Dior Show—no fooling around! Olay is not timid about attacking department store brands, either. On the chart shown on the previous

CoverGirl takes aim at Lancôme and Dior.

page, that CG example would be No. 1, Risk and Fear Reduction, Brand Comparison. The P-T-B chart catalogs the many opportunities for differentiating products

in advertising and providing creative execution opportunities with engagement, delight and enhanced value—thereby competitive advantages—beyond the products themselves. While P-T-Believe (see the Grayson Report, HAPPI, November 2010) deals with why the consumer should trust product benefits noted in the ad, P-T-Believe should be considered as the set-up for Permissionto-Buy to seal the deal—but which is rarely is found in magazine advertising. What a huge miss for most marketers. As more products offer similar positioning and benefits, the role of promotion is grabbing more marketing dollars. These days, promotions are going well beyond “price-offs” and executed throughout the media with P-T-Buy extravaganzas in stores, malls, internet, theatres—wherever imagination alights, (see 4C on the chart)—and all doing what? Highly differentiating their

A focus on customers gives us our passion. Fiscal responsibility and financial stability gives us our strength. Hank DeWolf CEO, The DeWolf Companies

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March 2011

The Grayson Report

brands from the competition. Isn’t that what good/effective advertising should do? These theatrical promotions are bringing the brand and P-T-B to a store near you— with great panache—and rumble around the world via the web and YouTube, which makes it an exciting world for consumers to play and buy. Except for the examples mentioned, magazine advertising remains so ho-hum. You could place most current ads in magazine issues from the early 2000s and they would fit right in. Isn’t there something wrong with that picture? An example follows in the next paragraph.

☹ Glad I Didn’t Do This

From the February 2011 issue of Allure, at the bottom of the page is the two-page ad by L’Oréal for its Magicsmooth Soufflé Makeup, a product for the face. With apologizes to Elizabeth Barrett

March 2011

Browning, let us count the ways: 1. The full-size face of Diane Kruger—so flat and over-retouched to “blur pores and lines” that it defies reality. 2. Before-andafter pictures that are so small that you can’t tell anything. 3. * and ** that are so tiny that even with a 10-X magnifying Magicsmooth Soufflé Makeup doesn’t rise to the top. glass, the explanation other L’Oréal products. Huh? is unreadable. Finally, for good measure, there is a $2 4. The throw-away Face Primer stuck coupon on the slick insert card of samples in a corner,“Also try . . .” 5. The claim “. . . Skin is transformed to of three shades, as well as the Primer (not velvety soft perfection, like never be- shown). Busy! Busy! Who says you can’t fore.**” But the ** is a comparison with have it all? •

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The Sunscreen Filter

5-STAR RESEARCH; BELOW PAR RATINGS

C

the benefits and dangers of sunscreen and skin cancer has saturated news both in print and online for the past few months. Several interesting reports on new ingredients as well as sun care formulations have surfaced. In addition, the last vestiges of regulations and testing protocols were recently reported. With all the contradictory available information, we need some clarity; it is time, once again, for THE SUNSCREEN FILTER. Let me first review the recent developments on the controversial topic of the benefits and drawbacks of sun protection by the application of sunscreens to prevent skin cancers. ONFLICTING NEWS ON

Retinyl Palmitate Earlier last year, the Environmental Working Group (EWG) highlighted preliminary FDA observations on the potential negative impact of using retinyl palmitate (RP) in sunscreen formulations.1 They advocated the omission of RP in sunscreens and, in fact, implemented a heavily skewed negative rating on any sunscreen product

Nadim Shaath Alpha Research & Development Ltd Dr. Nadim Shaath is the president of Alpha Research & Development Ltd., a consulting firm in White Plains, NY, specializing in sunscreen formulations and new product ideas in cosmetics, essential oils and ultraviolet filters. He has over 30 years of experience as chairman of the chemistry department at SUNY-Purchase, the technical director at Felton, the president of Nickstadt-Moeller, Inc. and the CEO of Kato Worldwide. He can be reached at [email protected]

March 2011

that utilizes RP in its formulations. Dermatologists and the Skin Cancer Foundation defended the use of RP which contributed to the controversy surrounding the safe and effective use of this ingredient in sunscreen formulations.2 Last month, the National Toxicology Program (NTP) published its final report on RP and concluded that its use in sunscreen formulations does contribute a negative impact on its safety and effectiveness.3 Obviously, this will not be the final word on banning RP in sunscreens, but for the time being, the controversy over its usage continues.

Does too much UVA protection lead to vitamin D deficiency?

Does Sunscreen Prevent Skin Cancer? Concerning whether sunscreens prevent melanomas, a number of credible reports have been published recently. In an interview with HAPPI (January 2011), Dr. Steve Wang, from the Memorial-Sloan Kettering Cancer Center in New York, stated that regular sunscreen use provides benefits in preventing squamous cell cancers (SCC), but the data on sunscreens preventing melanoma is inconclusive.4 A number of studies have been published recently including a report by Dr. Marianne Berwick from the University of New Mexico that appeared in the January 2011 issue of Clinical Pharmacology and Therapeutics. In her article, she concluded that sunscreens offer questionable protection from melanoma cancer.5 Fortunately, she also stated that “I would never tell anyone not to wear sunscreen. It’s just that they feel like they’re bulletproof if they’ve got it on.” She added, “Death from skin cancer is advertised as happi.com

being avoidable with the use of sunscreens. This position might actually be true, but there is as yet absolutely no scientific evidence to support it.” An earlier Australian study, published in the Journal of Clinical Oncology in December 2010 involving 1,600 people in Queensland, showed for the first time that daily sunscreen application can prevent potentially deadly melanoma.6 Adding to the confusion, seven UK health organizations are urging the population to get sun. The Cancer Research UK and the National Osteoporosis Society in the UK have reversed decades of warnings about the presumed dangers of sun exposure. The seven groups now cooperatively agree that humans need regular vitamin D.7 Studies have found that about 70% of whites and 97% of blacks are deficient in vitamin D. A recent news poll in Australia happi • 51

The Sunscreen Filter

has shown that 62% of Australians believe that it is safe to spend some time in the sun without sunscreen.8

Ingredients On the positive side, a number of ingredients for skin cancer protection were recently presented. They include: 1. A recent study spearheaded by Craig Elmets from the University of Alabama was published in the Journal of National Cancer Institute9 that showed that Celecoxib chemoprevention may reduce nonmelanoma skin cancers. The efficacy and safety of Celecoxib (Celebrex, an arthritis pill by Pfizer) were evaluated as a chemopreventive agent for actinic keratoses and nonmelanoma skin cancers, including cutaneous squamous cell carcinomas (SCCs) and basal cell carcinomas (BCCs). 2. Scientists in the U.S. have tested broccoli extract on human volunteers and mice, and showed that their skin was protected against sunburn. Broccoli contains an antioxidant called sulforaphane, which reportedly reduces sunburn and tumor development. Scientists in New Zealand have also suggested that extracts from Totara and Manuka trees could act in a similar way to broccoli.10 3. A study published in the British Journal of Dermatology reviewed extracts from

the Cordyceps fungus and found that they could help protect the skin from damage caused by UVB radiation.11 The polysaccharides in the fungus may offer photoprotection and help lower the risk of basal cell carcinoma (BCC). 4. A study conducted at the Medical College of Georgia highlights how antioxidants can be used to pre-treat skin cells to reduce a protein, Kinase-D, which the researchers have identified as playing a key role in the proliferation of skin cancer cells.12 5. An extensive study was published in the Journal of Cosmetic Sciences (October 2010) on the influence of purple sweet potato extracts on the UV absorption properties of a cosmetic cream.13 Anthocyanins extracted from the purple sweet potato were added to a cosmetic cream to provide additional protection against UV radiation.

Regulations One of our favorite topics, regulations, or lack of them, includes the issuance of the FDA Final Monograph and the status of the TEA list of actives. No regulations were finalized last year. Meanwhile, the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services published, on December 20, 2010, its“Unified Agenda,” which announced what regulations will soon be published.14

In one study, researchers found many products lacked the proper UV protection factor.

52 • happi

happi.com

March 2011

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70

WHAT IS ACTIMMUNE™ $FW,PPXQH™ is a patent pending standardized oil based extract of Broccoli Sprouts (Brassica Oleracea Italica). The sprouts are extracted in sunflower oil, via a proprietary low temperature reflux process. $FW,PPXQH™ works immediately to protect the skin and reduce skin discomfort and visible erythema. Over time, ActImmune™ balances and regulates key genes involved in controlling both intrinsic and extrinsic free radical damage, chronic skin sensitivity, and skin health and protection.

WHAT DOES IT DO?

$FW,PPXQH™ contains elements responsible for detoxifying problematic metabolites

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®

WHAT IS ACTISOOTHE® $FWL6RRWKH® is a patent pending bio-activated aqueous extract of Cordyceps Sinensis, and Trametes Versicolor. Designed to provide an immediate and long term anti-irritant and soothing effect on the skin, $FWL6RRWKH® over time will actually make skin less reactive; and is a lightweight liquid that can be used in sunscreens, after sun products, exfoliants, calming products for sensitive skin, cleansing products and anti-aging products.

WHAT DOES IT DO? $FWL6RRWKH® regulates the synthesis of signal proteins responsible for both the inflammatory response and sensitive skin $FWL6RRWKH® down-regulates the activity of the COX2 enzyme, reducing overall skin sensitivity

$FWL6RRWKH® reduces UV induced inflammation, skin sensitivity, and irritation due to chemical and physical irritants $FWL6RRWKH® virtually eliminates uncomfortable cosmetic reactions, Cosmetic Intolerance Syndrome CIS), by normalizing hyperactive skin in susceptible individuals

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The Sunscreen Filter

Conspicuously absent is a date for when the Final Monograph (the UVA/UVB Final Action) will be available. HHS does, however, state that the next step for the Time and Extent Application (TEA) will be in April 2011. These are the seven ingredients under consideration for adoption in the U.S. Without them, it is difficult to achieve a 4star UVA rating for a product. In a recent study by Dr. Olga Dueva and myself, eight SPF 100+ products on the U.S. market were evaluated and we found that no products could claim a 4-star rating.15 The FDA revealed the Final Phase of its Transparency Initiative in January 2011.16 This initiative is intended to improve the transparency of its rule making process within the industries it regulates. FDA commissioner Margaret Hamburg said,“Clarity and consistency are pillars of an effective regulatory system that effi-

ciently regulates products essential to health. In order to succeed, the FDA must clearly communicate standards and expectations to the industries it regulates.” Let’s hope that this clarity is communicated effectively, and soon, with the publication of the Final Monograph and the TEA ingredients. In New Zealand, the cosmetic regulations were updated allowing companies until Oct. 31, 2011 to comply with all the changes. In the U.S., the Cosmetic Regulations and the Safe Cosmetics Act of 2010 are still under review. Regulations, skin cancer and ingredients will be reviewed at the Florida Sunscreen Symposium, Sept. 15-17. The Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Scientific meeting, held Dec. 9-10, 2010 in New York City, had a scientific session on sun protection. Unfortunately, regulations were not discussed; instead, three papers were

presented on nanoparticles, inorganic UV filters and an antioxidant ingredient useful in sunscreens.17

Point of Contact: Consumers The application of scientific analysis comes at the point of contact, where the consumer uses the carefully designed sun care product. Are consumers receiving the product and the information they need? Two interesting scientific reports on consumer products appeared recently. The first, by Wang, Goulart and Lim, was published in the Archives of Dermatology.18 They evaluated 29 products with ultraviolet ingredients and found that at least six products contained no active ingredients for UVA1 protection. Of the remaining 23 products, only three contained zinc oxide concentrations of 5% or more, and another three had photostabilized avobenzone in their formulations. The study concluded that many day creams

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The Sunscreen Filter

do not offer long-wave UVA protection. The second study, conducted by DuevaKoganov and Shaath,15 evaluated eight SPF 100+ commercial products for their invitro UVA protection. We found that none of them qualified for four stars, the “highest UVA protection” criterion. Measurements of the contact angle of water to the surface modifying effects of test products on skin-substitute substrate, suggested similarities in sensorial profiles for certain SPF 100+ products. How do these studies relate to the sales of sun care products to the consumer? Most consumers are not delving into scientific journals and yet they are concerned and seek information. How does this information reach the consumer? A joint report by an online information network “BlogHer” and DeVries, a public relations firm, found that blogs are more than twice as likely to inspire cos-

March 2011

metic and beauty purchases as magazines.19 Cosmetic companies should focus their efforts on what bloggers are writing about their products. Filling the void in the absence of officially sanctioned regulations, blogger posts, their conclusions and their interpretation of the scientific literature on the safety of products, regulations, photoprotection and skin cancers, all impact consumer decision-making. •

References 1. www.ewg.org/2010sunscreen 2. www.aad.org/media/backgroundnews, “Analysis Finds Sunscreens Containing Retinyl Palmitate do not Cause Skin Cancer,” Aug. 10, 2010. 3. http://ntp.niehs.nih.gov 4. Wang, S., HAPPI, January 2011,“Uncovering the Controversies Which Cloud Sunscreens.” 5. Berwick, M. et al., Clinical Pharmacology and Therapeutics, January 2011. 6. Green, A. et al., Journal of Clinical Oncology, Dec. 6, 2010

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7.http://truthonmedicine.wordpress.com/2011/ 01/13

8. http://www/sls.com.au (News poll conducted online in November 2010 among n=1,209 adults aged 18-64). 9. Elmets, C., et al., J. Natl. Cancer Institute 2010; 102:1-10. 10. http://www.zeenews.com 11. Wong, W., et al., British Journal of Dermatology, December, 2010. 12. http://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/content/view/print/346329 13. Chan, C., et al., J. Cosmetic Sci., 61, 331-341 (October, 2010) 14. Department of Health and Human Services, Dec. 20, 2010, Unified Agenda, www.Regulations.gov 15. Dueva-Koganov, O. and Shaath, N., HAPPI, December 2010, “Comparative Evaluation of Commercial SPF 100+ Sunscreen Products.” 16. www.HHS.gov, January 2011. 17. Soc. of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Scientific Meeting, Dec. 9, 2010, New York. 18. Wang, S., Goulart, J. and Lim, H., Arch. Dermatol., Jan. 17, 2011. 19. http://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/content/view/print/352839

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SupplySide East Where Innovation Begins The cutting-edge ingredient show

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Formulating Manual Dishwash Detergents An optimum hand dishwash liquid formula can be developed by using LAS, SLES and cocamidopropyl betaine and perhaps some cocamide DEA. Read on to learn how to develop a variety dishwash detergents. Shoaib Arif • Pilot Chemical Co. • Cincinnati, OH

Foaming and grease cutting are just a few requirements for detergents.

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OAM, VISCOSITY AND GREASE cutting power are some of the basic requirements for manual dishwash detergent. Go a little further than the basic formula and it may require good foam stability and a certain pH range. Still not satisfied? Try adding performance in hard water and cold temperatures. Want still more? Throw in quick rinsing and drying. For even more discerning consumers, add mildness and moisturizing effects. Or, how about adding benefits such as naturallyderived, DfE-approved and readily biodegradable? Last, but not least, some

March 2011

formulators add aromatherapy and antibacterial effects. Let’s start with the basics—foam, viscosity and grease cutting—and create a very economical formula, one with the raw material cost of 5-10 cents per 16oz. So, if you can get a bottle, cap and label and the labor for about 15-25 cents, the total cost of a 16oz. dishwash detergent in a bottle ready to be shipped to a customer can be between 20-35 cents. The formula is simple. It has 95% water, 0.63% sodium hydroxide (50% solution), 2.4% DDBSA (Pilot’s Calsoft LAS-99), 1.2% cocamide happi.com

DEA (Pilot’s Calamide C), 0.77% sodium chloride and preservatives and dye as required. The blending procedure is easy. Add the ingredients in the order listed with continuous mixing until a clear, smooth and homogenous batch is obtained that is free of lumps and particles. Adjust the pH to 8-9 with DDBSA or sodium hydroxide. To make an economy formula, start with economy ingredients. DDBSA is one of the lowest cost anionic surfactants in its class, as is cocamide DEA. Together, these two ingredients bring the essentials of a manual dishwash performance attributes to the formula. DDBSA is generally sold as 95% plus active material. With today’s high shipping costs it is an obvious advantage. Cocamide DEA is also a high active material with no water or solvent in it. Neutralized DDBSA is an excellent foamer with good detergency and oily soil removal capabilities. Cocamide DEA adds foam enhancement and stability, emulsification and viscosity building properties. The formula listed above has a viscosity of 200 cp. at 70°F, as measured by Brookfield RV viscometer using spindle number 3 at 20 RPM. We can develop a wide range of formulas using essentially the DDBSA, sodium hydroxide and happi • 57

• Dish Detergents

page. All amounts are listed in weight percents. The most economical way to add sodium alkyl benzene sulfonate is to neutralize the DDBSA while making the batch. Make sure your mixing tank and agitator are constructed of a material that can take pH extremes. The preferred procedure for neutralization of DDBSA is to add the formula amount of water into the mixing tank and start mixing. Add the formula amount of sodium hydroxide 50% solution and then slowly add the DDBSA. Adjust the mixer speed so that it will mix the contents well but at the same time will not generate excessive foaming. Remember, you are hanTable 1. Hand Dishwash Formulas dling strong alkali and strong acid, so be careEconomy Medium Premium ful as these are corroWater to 100% sive material, read MSDS and take apSodium hydroxide propriate precautions. 1.26 2.52 5.04 50% Also, this neutralization reaction is DDBSA (Pilot’s 4.80 9.60 19.20 exothermic. It generLAS-99) ates a considerable Cocamide DEA amount of heat. So 1.20 1.20 2.40 (Pilot's Calamide C) also take precautions to accommodate the Adjust pH to 8-9 by DDBSA pH adjustment heat generation, paror sodium hydroxide ticularly if you are Sodium chloride 1.0 1.2 manufacturing a large batch with big Preservative, amounts of DDBSA Q.S Q.S Q.S perfume, dye and sodium hydroxide. Alternatively, you % Solids 7.63 13.26 24.12 can buy pre-neutralized material as well. It Viscosity (Cp.) at 70º F 300 700 5500 will probably cost more but may be Ross Miles Foam worthwhile in some Height mm 0.1% in D.I water instances. Pre-neutralInitial 100 120 135 ized materials or the sodium salts of After 5 min. 85 105 125 DDBSA, also called sodium linear alkyl (37% solids) National Brand benzene sulfonate or sodium LAS, are availInitial 140 able in 30-, 40-, 50and 60% active variAfter 5 min. 140 eties. Some of these

cocamide DEA and perhaps some tetrasodium EDTA or sodium citrate as builders for water softening. So, for example, using the two surfactants, caustic soda neutralized DDBSA (also called sodium alkyl benzene sulfonate) and cocamide DEA and, optionally, some EDTA and salt, we can build formulas for hand dishwash liquids with increasing active contents to fit various categories on a retailer’s shelf. The categories can include economy, medium grade and premium. Also, the same formulas with little modifications can be used for pots and pan cleaners in I&I applications. The formulas are listed in Table 1 on the following

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materials may contain a hydrotrope (sodium xylene sulfonate) to reduce the viscosity and make the product easier to handle. Others that do not contain a hydrotrope, may come in a paste or gel form. These high viscosity versions need special handling and storage. The foam height data listed in Table 1 shows that the national brand commercial product has better foam stability than the premium formula made with LAS and alkanolamide. So, the obvious question is, how to increase the foam stability? We tried adding lauramine oxide and cocamidopropyl betaine to the medium formula. First we added 3% active lauramine oxide to the “medium” formula. The initial foam height increased to 130mm but it dropped 120mm after five minutes. When 3% active cocamidopropyl betaine was added to the “medium formula” the initial foam height increased to 135mm and after five minutes it dropped to 130mm. This shows that in LAS-based formulas, the cocamidopropyl betaine may be a better choice as a secondary surfactant than lauramine oxide. Polymers like cellulose ethers (hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, for example) can also be used as foam stabilizers although they may not be as economical as amine oxides and betaines, will take longer to process and will not add to the foam volume in any considerable quantity. We then tried using sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth-2 sulfate as primary surfactants in dishwash formulas. We chose the medium formula and replaced the LAS with equal amount of active SLS. The initial foam height, as well as the height after five minutes, was the same as those listed for the LAS based formula (initial, 120mm and after 5 min., 105mm). Next we made a modification to the medium formula by replacing LAS with an equal active amount of SLES (2 mole EO). This formula showed a slight reduction in initial foam height compared to the LAS formula but an improvement in the foam stability (foam height after five minutes). The initial foam height was 115mm and after five minutes it dropped to 110mm. In light of these experiments and their March 2011

Dish Detergents

results, an optimum hand dishwash liquid formula can be developed by using LAS, SLES, and cocamidopropyl betaine and perhaps some cocamide DEA. Let us develop a 15% active formula using these surfactants. A starting formula can be made using 6% active LAS, 4% active SLES, 3% active cocamidopropyl betaine and 2% cocamide DEA. This formula, when diluted 0.1% with deionized water, gave an initial foam height of 135mm and five minutes later the foam went down to 133mm (Ross Miles foam test). In contrast, when lauramine oxide was substituted for cocamidopropyl betaine in the above-mentioned formula, the initial foam height was 120mm and after five minutes it went down to 115mm. That means cocamidopropyl betaine is a better secondary surfactant in an LAS/SLES formula than lauramine oxide. One or two percent of tetrasodium EDTA or sodium citrate can be added to this formula as a builder; viscosity can be reduced by adding SXS, propylene glycol or denatured ethyl alcohol. A naturally-derived product can be formulated using SLES, cocamide DEA and cocamidopropyl betaine. SLES will give better foam stability than LAS, particularly in hard water. A DEA-free formula can be developed by using LAS, SLES and cocamidopropyl betaine. A sulfate-free and DEA-free formula can be developed using LAS and cocamidopropyl betaine. Both surfactants are listed on the Cleangredients’ database used by EPA’s Design for Environment. Alkyl diphenyloxide disulsonates (ADPODS), such as Calfax DB-45 from Pilot Chemical Co., is an excellent additive to improve cold water efficacy and low streaking and spotting properties in hand dishwashing formulas. These powerful an-

ionic surfactants have excellent hydrophilic properties and act as hydrotropes as well as surfactants. ADPODS can also help create ultra concentrated detergents. They reduce the viscosity of high active surfactant solutions and, unlike sodium xylene sulfonate, also add to percent active surfactant in the formula. To create mild and skin friendly dishwashing liquids, use SLES with three moles of EO like Pilot’s Calfoam ES-303. Cocamidopropyl betaine can be added for improved mildness. Other amphoterics like sodium lauroamphoacetate can also be used for mildness. Aloe vera, vitamin E, panthenol, glycerin and other herbal extracts can be added to the formula for skin care benefits in premium products. Essential oils, such as lavender and rosemary, can be used for aromatherapy benefits. Triclosan is commonly used as an antibacterial agent. To claim antibacterial/antimicrobial efficacy, the product

•

Some formulations feature essential oils such as lavender or rosemary for a green way to clean.

must be registered with appropriate regulatory agencies such as FDA and EPA. •

About the Author Shoab Arif is manager, applications & tech service, at Pilot Chemical Company. Tel: 513-326-0618; Email: [email protected]

March 2011

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ACI Builds Its Brand A year after its transformation into the American Cleaning Institute, ACI executives tell members that the Institute remains dedicated to getting the job done in Washington, D.C. and around the world through an effective network of partners. Tom Branna • Editorial Director

ACI continued to build its

A

brand at the recent 2011

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YEAR AFTER

ITS TRANSFORMATION

from the Soap and Detergent Association to the American Cleaning Institute, ACI has undertaken a variety of initiatives to spread the word about the benefits of its products, its members and the organization itself. The leaders of the U.S. laundry and related industries gathered in Orlando, FL in January for the 85th Annual Meeting of the American Cleaning Institute. The event attracted nearly 700 attendees—a double digit gain over 2010 attendance figures. During the past year, ACI membership rose as well, reaching 122 companies, up from 100 a year ago. In an issues briefing session, ACI board members reviewed several of the initiatives the Institute has undertaken during the past year. In his opening remarks, Ernie Rosenberg, president, ACI, urged attendees to get involved with Institute activities. “We rely on members and their sweat equity,” he told those in attendance. “We need your support!” Shell Chemical’s Robert Chouffot, the newly elected ACI chair, noted that in a 2010 survey of its members, 89% said ACI is a good value. “We are well positioned to work with the new Congress, but regulations continue,” warned Chouffot. “ACI is the most effective voice of the cleaning products industry,” and he noted that the ingredient disclosure program will expand and an ACI Sustainability report will debut.

Convention.

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March 2011

ACI Meeting

A year after moving its annual meeting from Boca Raton to the Grande Lakes Orlando Resort, ACI enhanced the meeting experience with more speaker sessions, a new member reception, a hospitality bar, charity events and real time access to registration lists. “It’s the right place for the household and industrial and institutional industry to meet on the relevant issues,” insisted Colgate’s Jack DiMaggio, chairman of the ACI convention committee.“There is a lot of return on investment and business-tobusiness interaction.” The speakers who followed DiMaggio reiterated the value of ACI membership by ticking off the benefits of a host of programs and services available to members. For example, in noting that ACI’s brand promise is “Improving Lives,” Arylessence’s Bob Sansone reviewed how the Institute is getting the word out about the benefits of ACI’s products via several partnerships with key groups including American Society for Microbiology, Centers for Disease Control and National Education Association. Moreover, through vehicles such as newsletters, websites, a national conference and other programs, ACI’s message reaches 11 million consumers. Finally, the new “For Better Living” 30minute video communicates how the industry contributes to society. ACI continues to be recognized as the media’s go-to source on cleaning product industry issues and trends, according to Procter & Gamble’s Ross Holthouse of the ACI communications committee. During the past year, ACI’s outreach program extended beyond traditional media such as television, radio and print to include email, RSS feeds and social media platforms like LinkedIn, Twitter and Facebook. Last year, ACI was mentioned or quoted in 1,834 articles, and among analyzed articles, 97% of them were positive. Holthouse noted that there was positive coverage on the greater availability of information on cleaning product ingredients in publications such as The Wall Street Journal, USA Today, The Baltimore Sun and The Philadelphia Inquirer as well as by the AssoMarch 2011

Jack DiMaggio, Colgate-Palmolive, chairman of the ACI convention committee.

ciated Press. At the same time, ACI defended the industry’s position regarding antibacterial products and ingredients, as well as promoted the use of cleaning products through its cleaning surveys, via NBC News, The Washington Post, The Boston Globe and other media outlets.

Regulation Update AkzoNobel’s Donna Hillebold of ACI’s research, technology and regulation committee reviewed several regulatory issues that could impact the industry. First up was the Safer Consumer Product Alternatives (AB 1879), which is part of California’s Green Chemistry Initiative (GCI). If passed, the regulation would build upon current environmental protection laws to shift the focus from cradle to grave regulation to up-front design and prevention of harm. Since ACI began submitting comments at each step of the regulatory process, the Department of Toxic Substances Control (DTSC) has dramatically shifted its positions following the release of every variant to the regulations, according to Hillebold. In January, DTSC put the regulation on hold pending a meeting of the Green Ribbon Science Panel. Also under California’s GCI, the Institute has submitted comments regarding the California Office of Environmental happi.com

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Health Assessment (OEHHA) Hazard Trait regulation (SB 509). If passed, the bill would require OEHHA to specify the hazard traits, environmental and toxicological end-points, and other relevant data that are to be included in the state’s Toxics Information Clearinghouse. On the “green” front, Hillebold noted that two trends are emerging: a move from environmentally preferable products (EPPs) to sustainability and the growth of ecolabeling, where more than 500 programs are in place in the U.S., Europe and Asia. Unfortunately, according to Hillebold, both trends are confusing to consumers and industry. She noted that many labeling systems place unreasonable restrictions on ingredients such as enzymes and antimicrobials. Therefore, the challenge to industry is to convince regulators and NGOs to put sustainability ahead of single ingredient restrictions in their programs. (ACI’s position on EPPs is available online at www.cleaninginstitute.org.) In defense of antimicrobial ingredients, ACI met with aides to Congressman Edward Markey to discuss the very science he questioned in 2010 letters to EPA and FDA. At the same time, ACI is coordinating the industry’s response to EPA’s call for input on the safety and efficacy of triclosan. Mike Prentiss of P&G provided an update on activities that fall under the scope of ACI’s government affairs committee. Key among these is ACI’s position that while the Toxic Substances and Control Act (TSCA) should be updated, industry must maintain its ability to innovate and speed products to market. Prentiss noted that TSCA is 35 years old and needs updating, observing that REACH and the Canadian Chemical Management systems are newer models. Neither a House (HR5820) nor Senate (S3209) bill moved last year, despite Democratic control of Congress. Prentiss called both bills detrimental to industry interests. To ensure that its voice is heard, industry formed the American Alliance for Innovation (AAI), a 100-plus trade association coalition, where ACI serves on the steering committee. happi • 61

• ACI Meeting

Prentiss said that he expects EPA to be challenged on its policy and practices by the Republican-controlled House. Another area of concern for industry is Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR). With local governments bleeding money, they seek to shift the costs of final product and packaging disposal and recycling to manufacturers—something that NGOs have sought for years. ACI is concerned that these programs would cost product manufacturers billions of dollars and that manufacturers could be forced to support more costly systems than the ones currently in place. Once such bill is already moving forward in Vermont (H696). Supported by the beverage industry, it would repeal container deposit law in exchange for imposing EPR on all consumer package goods. Meanwhile, in Maine, the Department of Environmental Protection (DEP) is charged with producing a report on products to be considered for EPR treatment. Although ACI products are not addressed, the Institute monitors Maine via a multiindustry coalition. Elsewhere, Rhode Island has passed a

so-called“framework”that is said to be similar to Maine. Minnesota and Washington had framework legislation introduced in 2010 and ACI expects the legislation to be reintroduced. Finally, while California EPR framework proposal was defeated, targeted bills remained active in 2010.

“The ability to improve the quality of life for this and future generations, by creating products that promote hygiene and cleanliness, are environmentally sound, and are economically successful.” ACI’s sustainability efforts are focused on three areas: • Enhancing the perception of the industry and its products with the publication of a sustainability report, which was expected to be released by the end of the first quarter; • Improving sustainability/product stewardship, perhaps by considering a charter to maintain progress (now under review); and • External partnerships, such as a sustainability consortium and Earth911. According to Lindenschmidt, the ACI sustainability report is focused on four specific data endpoints: CO2, greenhouse gas and global warming emissions; water usage and savings; waste reduction; and energy usage and savings.

A Definition of Sustainability

Company Confidential

P&G’s Bob Lindenschmidt, of ACI’s sustainability committee, opened his remarks with ACI’s definition of sustainability:

Even as industry has moved to become more transparent, NGOs and government agencies are working to expose U.S. cor-

ACI Sustainability Committee chair Bob Lindenschmidt, Procter & Gamble

Shell Chemical’s Robert Chouffot Elected Chair of ACI Board

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OBERT CHOUFFOT, general manager, higher olefins & derivatives at Shell Chemical LP, is the new chair of the American Cleaning Institute (ACI) board of directors. The new vice chair is Catherine Ehrenberger, vice president-R&D, quality and regulatory, Amway. Thomas O’Brien, general manager, organics, Sasol Olefins & Surfactants GmbH, is the new treasurer. Three new members were appointed to one-year terms to fill vacancies on the board: Nancy Vincent, business director, Care Surfactants & Alcohols, North America, BASF Corp (Vincent previously was the board member from Cognis Corp., which was recently acquired by BASF); Richard Conti, chief operating officer North America Markets, SC Johnson and Craig Slavtcheff, senior vice president, R&D, quality, regulatory, The Sun Products Corporation. Other board members elected for 2011 include: Steve Tanner, president and chief executive officer, Arylessence, Inc.; Steven Cugine, executive vice president, global new product innovation, Church & Dwight Company, Inc.; Larry Peiros, executive vice president and chief operating officer, North America, The Clorox Company; Noel Wallace, president, Colgate U.S. and global sustainability, Colgate-Palmolive Company; Kevin F. Gallagher, president, Croda Inc; James L. Jackson, president, DeSoto L.L.C.; Eunice Heath, general manager, Dow Fabric & Personal Care, The Dow Chemical Company; Dr. Larry Berger, senior vice president and chief technical officer, Ecolab Inc.; Reinhold Brand, president, Evonik Goldschmidt Corporation; Greg Tipsord, senior vice president & general manager, laundry care business unit, Henkel Consumer Goods Inc.; Anders Lund, marketing director, Novozymes; Paul J. Ferrall, Jr., president, PQ Americas, PQ Corporation; Jorge Mesquita, group president-global fabric care, P&G and Tom O’Brien, general manager, organics, Sasol Olefins & Surfactants. Robert Chouffot Catherine Ehrenberger

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ACI Meeting

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AkzoNobel’s Frank Sherman Honored With Distinguished Service Award

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RANK SHERMAN, chairman of AkzoNobel Inc. and a longtime member of the American Cleaning Institute board of directors, was

the 2011 recipient of ACI’s Elva Walker Spillane Distinguished Service Award. “I’m surprised,” said Sherman in accepting the award. “I always said the award should be given to somebody who works for a living and not a board member!” The award honors an individual for extensive or exceptional service to ACI who promoted the growth and interests of the association and the industries it represents; and who exercised outstanding leadership within ACI. “Frank has been a passionate, dedicated, and focused leader within ACI and the industry at-large for years,” said Ernie Rosenberg, ACI president and chief executive officer. “His hard work and commitment embody what our Distinguished Service Award is all about.” Sherman is a longtime member of ACI’s board of directors, having first been elected to the board in 2001. He served as vice chair from 2006 to 2008 and as board chair from 2008 to 2010. Frank Sherman receives the Elva Walker Spillane “Elva was an institution of this association,” noted Sherman. “She had a huge Distinguished Service Award from ACI Chair Bob impact.” Chouffot of Shell Chemicals. The Distinguished Service Award is named in honor of the late Elva Walker Spillane, the former National Purity LLC chief executive who served on the association’s board for 20 years.

porate secrets for all to see, according to Don Lofty of S.C. Johnson & Son and ACI’s legal committee. In California, a bill (SB928) on ingredient communication submitted by Sen. Joe Simitian was broadly opposed by industry because it provided inadequate protection for confidential business information and fragrances. According to Lofty, the bill may be reintroduced this year. In New York, the Department of Environmental Conservation plans to compel disclosure under a 1976 regulation that was already dismissed by the courts. For its part, ACI plans to educate new administration appointees about the industry’s voluntary program, which ACI may enhance. At the same time, Lofty noted that trade secrets are under attack from several sources including California Green Chemistry regulations, TSCA reform legislation and new EPA policies impacting TSCA CBI Treatment. For its part, ACI’s position is that the public’s right to know must be balanced with a right to protect innovation. AkzoNobel’s Dale Steichen explained that federal biodiesel policies lead to the diversion of fats to fuel production. ACI’s March 2011

oleochemical committee is determined to restore equitable access to animal fats market for oleochemical producers. To achieve this goal, ACI proposes to delete “animal fats” from biodiesel credit and apportion the use of “animal fats” to assure continued supply for oleochemicals based on historical usage levels.

It’s a Woman’s World While the rise of the consumer is on every company’s agenda, Paco Underhill, founder, president and CEO of Envirosell, argued that the growing economic strength of women should be at the forefront of every marketer’s business plan. He noted that women out-earn men by 20% in major cities and are better educated than men—now that they represent the majority in U.S. colleges and universities. Underhill’s 2010 book,“What Women Want,” focused on how the changing status of women impacts the world in which we live. “The nuclear family that we always built for is not part of our future,” insisted Underhill. “The way we are living is undergoing change.” Envirosell is a consultancy that attempts to understand the nuances of happi.com

human behavior. Underhill noted that less than 25% of U.S. households are the traditional, mother-father-children unit. In fact, single fathers raising children is the fastest growing family unit in the U.S., according to Underhill. The rise of women has an impact on the cleaning industry, too. “Cleaning is a magic word. It is transformational,” insisted Underhill. “The meaning of clean is nearly as important as the meaning of safe—that’s what makes this industry so important,” he told the audience. While major changes have taken place in the nuclear family, things are changing at retail as well. Underhill insisted that cutting edge retail formats are found outside North America these days, and provided examples of a novel Brazilian shopping mall and even a startup gas station in Indonesia. And while retailers everywhere are trying to educate consumers, they can’t always afford to do it at the point of sale, not when so many consumers pre-shop online or use their smart phones to get product information in-store. “Distribution models are in flux,” Underhill warned the audience.“Are you?” • happi • 63

Suppliers Remain Optimistic Two years into the U.S. recovery, raw material suppliers to the global laundry and household care industry remain optimistic about growth opportunities. Tom Branna • Editorial Director

T

HE ECONOMIC RECOVERY began in 2009, continued unabated in 2010 and shows no signs of slowing down in 2011, according to analysts. That’s good news for raw material suppliers to the global household and laundry care industry, many of which continued to post impressive gains quarter after quarter since plumbing the depths of the recession. Of course, a rising tide lifts all boats, including commodity prices, which is a cause of concern for nearly every supplier to the industry. During the recent annual meeting of the American Cleaning Institute (see coverage p. 60 in this issue), several suppliers sat down with HAPPI to explain where their companies and the industry are headed in 2011 and beyond. Perhaps no company in the industry is more optimistic about the future than BASF, which completed its €3.1 billion acquisition of Cognis in December. The move strengthened BASF’s leading position in value-added products for home care and gave it a leading position in personal care ingredients as well. BASF will announce integration plans by the end of the first quarter and complete the structural integration by the end of the year.

BASF’s Plans for Cognis “In the past five years, we acquired Engelhard, a portion of Degussa, Ciba and now Cognis. We are profiting from all of that knowledge we acquired,”explained Gabriel 64 • happi

Tanbourgi, president, Care Chemicals Division, BASF.“Now with the Cognis integration, we expect it to be a fast one.” According to Tanbourgi, prior to the acquisition, BASF lacked in some areas such as surfactants and emollients for personal care, but has closed that gap with the Cognis acquisition. Moreover, there are a lot of synergies between BASF and Cognis, which will result in a broader product portfolio, better understanding of consumer needs, and more opportunities for innovation, according to company executives. BASF executives previously announced, “With this acquisition, we achieve a leading position in personal care ingredients, strengthen our leading position in value-added products for home care and establish a strong position in health and nutrition products.” “By purchasing Cognis, we in particular expand our portfolio with products based on renewable raw materials. A broader and more attractive offering of products and services combined with our research and development expertise will allow us to become an even more important partner for joint development projects with our customers. This will contribute to making them even more successful.” “This entire industry revolves around innovation,” explained Tanbourgi. “BASF has more than 9,600 R&D employees. The strength of Cognis will help broaden our access to innovation.”He noted that BASF’s happi.com

Care Chemicals division research budget is very powerful, with a strong focus on breakthrough innovation as well as on customer-based innovation and a smaller portion being devoted to process innovation.

No Slowdown “(During the recession) we continued to invest in R&D,” observed Gary Dee, director, home, I&I and personal care. We believed this placed us at an advantage as the global markets slowly begin to climb out of the recession. Our customers were very active too, and they tried to innovate forward in areas where it made sense.” The results for BASF’s Care Chemicals Division were increased due to the demand for several innovative products in fabric care including Tinopal optical brighteners for detergents, Rheovis rheology modifiers and Sokalan color care polymers. “Overall, 2010 was a better year for our raw materials going into the laundry category,” said Dee. “The demand for innovative ingredients has not changed. In fact formulators are demanding more and more ingredients that are multi-functional, with improved soil removal benefits and excellent environmental profile.” One area where Cognis excels in is chemistry based on renewable raw materials. “Alkylpolyglucosides (APGs) are as natural as you can get,” noted Dee. “The addition of the APG product line adds March 2011

Suppliers Remain Optimistic

•

Gabriel Tanbourgi

Gary Dee

Kevin Gallagher

Tom Nelson

David Del Guercio

Sahar Fakhry-Smith

BASF

BASF

Croda

P&G Chemicals

Evonik

Evonik

depth and fills in some of the performance gaps of the legacy BASF product portfolio. We are able to offer effective solutions in application areas where it was not previously possible. Look at Cognis’ Dehypon chemistry and BASF’s Plurafac chemistries, now we can offer products ranging from low foam to high foam for the home and I&I markets.” According to Dee, the combined businesses of Cognis and BASF offer tremendous potential with very little overlap.“With the acquisition of Cognis, we strengthen our portfolio with less cyclical and more specialty businesses and further expand our position on a global basis. “In North America, we have begun to

look for opportunities to leverage our technologies, reduce complexity and explore new routes to market,”added Dee.“One of the most important considerations, of course, is to make sure our customers and markets are well cared for during the integration process.”

Rising Costs Every supplier who spoke with HAPPI acknowledged that rising feedstock prices are a growing concern for them and their customers. For Innospec, 2010 was a much more challenging year then 2009 for pricing as raw materials started to increase in the first quarter and the rate and magnitude of the

increases grew thru the remainder of the year, according to Phil Matena, VP-sales and business development, Active Chemicals, Americas. “We did see improvements in the demand for materials; this was especially true for the industrial segments of our business,” explained Matena.“Our personal care business saw notable growth in our sulfate free surfactants as this category continues to gain momentum. While P&G Chemicals’ executives expect the recovery to continue, they’ve taken to calling it a VUCA market; i.e., one marked by volatility, uncertainty, complexity and ambiguity. Similarly, Kevin Gallagher, president,

Dow Fabric & Surface Care, Firmenich and Symrise Are Honored by Henkel

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OW FABRIC & SURFACE CARE received the “Best Innovation Contributor 2010” award from Henkel Laundry & Home Care at the 2011 American Cleaning Institute (ACI) Annual Meeting and Industry Convention in January. Every year Henkel recognizes an external partner for delivery of outstanding, consumer-relevant innovation. This year Dow Chemical received Henkel's award for SoftCAT, a conditioning polymer that enhances textile elasticity. “We are truly honored to receive the award for the Best Innovation Contributor 2010 from our long-term business partner, Henkel, Laundry & Home Care business sector,” said Eunice Heath, global general manager, Dow Home & Personal Care. “At Dow, we are committed to collaborating with our customers to meet their needs. In fact, we study consumer trends so that we can focus our vast research and development resources on creating solutions for our customers that anticipate consumer demand.”

March 2011

“Dow is always looking for ways to solve customer problems and thereby provide brand owners with opportunities for differentiated label claims,” said Carlos Silva Lopes, global marketing director, Dow Fabric & Surface Care. “The development of SoftCAT, a special polymer exhibiting a repair effect on the elasticity of textiles, is an example of how Dow is committed to helping our customers succeed. This award is the result of years of collaboration with Henkel and represents a multifunctional effort by research and development, technical services, marketing and sales.” In presenting this award, Thomas Müller-Kirschbaum, corporate senior vice president for research and development, technology and supply chain for Henkel's Laundry and Home Care business sector, remarked, “Dow's innovative chemistry contributes to assuring Henkel's leading position in special laundry care, now and in the future.” During the Henkel ceremony, Firmenich and Symrise were recognized for "Best Supply Performance 2010."

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• Suppliers Remain Optimistic

Croda Inc., noted that there is growing concern with rising commodity prices. “We need to keep up with these prices to make sure that we have commodities available for use as raw materials,”said Gallagher. “We are always working with customers to look at opportunities for savings in the supply chain.” That sentiment was echoed by BASF executives. As Tanbourgi noted, innovation must be affordable for customers. Additionally, Dee indicated that there continues to be some raw material shortages in 2011 in North America, due to a number of factors, including the tightness for natural alcohols and other naturally derived feedstock. The tightness of natural alcohols has spilled over into synthetic alcohols as synthetics are being used to some degree to replace naturals. Purified ethylene oxide is expected to run at lean levels as demand rises and because of recent supply outages. Tom Nelson, director, P&G Chemicals, noted that with the recovery came some supply challenges. For example, today, lauric oil is 50% above its historic high price. “In 2007, we learned to pass on price increases in order to remain viable,”recalled Nelson. “We must offer our customer choices to avoid surprises and work closely with them to deliver solutions.”

Innovation Is the Answer As costs continue to rise, the best answer is to find innovative ways to get improved performance with better chemistry, Nelson added. “We want to optimize our capabilities to make sure that our customers succeed,” he explained. To achieve that goal, P&G Chemicals plans to: • Further optimize its fatty alcohol net work; • Continue to create new uses and ap plications for alcohol co-products; • Optimize its tertiary amine supply network; • Expand development of sustainable formulations with Olean and Sefose; and 66 • happi

• Stay ahead of regulatory compliance. The company is also upgrading SAP across all of its systems, Nelson said. “We are evaluating demands of customers and defining what our network should look like now and 10 years from now,” explained Nelson. “The relationship between customer and supplier is much more collaborative than it was 10 years ago. People realize that you can’t do it alone.”

What’s New? At Croda Inc., the biggest success story during the past year has been the launch of its naturally-derived, DfE-approved NatSurf range of nonionic surfactants. According to Gallagher, there has been a significant surge in sales as many customers express interest in replacements for nonylphenols (NPEs) and other customers move toward DfE approved formulations. Besides the NatSurfs, Croda is introducing a line of ModiSurfs that will keep surfaces cleaner, longer. Furthermore, the company is expanding its global applications team in home care in order to take advantage of opportunities for the NatSurfs and ModiSurfs. “In addition, we continue to work on bringing more and more personal care attributes to home care products, particularly through the use of nonwoven fibers,” explained Gallagher. Evonik is promoting the use of Tego Betaine C60 in household care and I&I applications. Based on coconut, it can be formulated into a broader pH (2-13) range than other betaines, and has applications wherever the formulator wants foam. Evonik is also promoting its Carspray 800 formulation. The vegetable-based product hit the marketplace in August. “It combines performance, efficiency and sustainability,”explained Sahar FakhrySmith, marketing and sales manager, Evonik Goldschmidt. Innospec is launching blends that incorporate its Iselux technology, explained Matena. “These blends enable our customers to create high-performing structured liquids for use in both shampoos and body wash,” he said. happi.com

Later this month, Innospec will roll out a dry shampoo and later, will expand its portfolio of sulfate-free surfactants with sarcosinates and amphoterics.

Into the Future Croda is looking forward to a robust 2011, according to Gallagher.“We believe that our work in improving the performance of our customer's products will result in significant growth this year.” With the structural integration of Cognis expected to be completed by year-end, BASF executives are confident that the company is well positioned for future global growth. In emerging markets, BASF has a strong structure in Asia and has added more plants with the acquisition of Cognis. These markets, especially those in China and India, are critical for future growth, as are Brazil and the rest of Latin America. In 2011, BASF has several key product launches underway. In North America, the company will roll out a new form of methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA), known as Trilon M Granules SG (second generation). Trilon M is a sustainable chelating agent that allows formulators to make phosphorous-free automatic dishwashing (ADW) with similar high performance to ADW products containing phosphates. Trilon M granule SG is a new solid version with better handling and processing properties, especially for ADW tabs and powders, according to BASF. The company was excited to announce that Trilon M is one of the first chelating agents to meet the Design for the Environment (DfE) approval guidelines. In the wipes category, BASF’s Care Chemicals division will introduce a portfolio of ingredients for better performing wipes for the home, I&I and personal care markets. These ingredients will include surfactants, polymers and personal care additives. Evonik has budgeted six billion euros through 2015 to propel organic growth as well as acquisitions. “As our customers expand, we will support them with our technology around the globe,” explained del Guercio. • March 2011

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The Sky’s the Limit Today’s consumers want volume and hold in hairstyling products.

Melissa Meisel • Associate Editor

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HE RIGHT PRODUCTS can make the hairstylist’s artistry last days and even weeks beyond the initial visit. After all, a multitude of mousses, gels and sprays on the market can add luster to dull locks or even make temporary works of art stay put in any direction, up or down—just think Snooki’s mile-high poof from “Jersey Shore” or Justin Bieber’s slicked-down shag. Despite the plethora of styles out there, however, sales haven’t budged much. Sales of hair spray and spritz products rose 1.2% to $412.4 million in U.S. supermarkets, drugstores and mass merchandisers, excluding Walmart, for the year ended Dec. 26, 2010, according to The SymphonyIRI Group of Chicago, IL. Sales of hair styling/ setting gel/mousse SKUs were nearly flat at $632.4 million in sales (see chart, p. 72). According to Mintel, among styling products, sales of hairspray, which make up roughly 12% of the total category, have held up better in the past few years than sales of gel/mousse. But it’s the independent marketers who are capturing the attention of the fickle consumer for future

March 2011

purchases in the gel/mousse segment, so expect more launches from this category soon.

What’s Hot Now Volumizing powders, dry shampoos and texturizing sprays are in demand for 2011, according to Michele Sherbet, brand manager of Not Your Mother’s hair care products, Tampa, FL. The line is available at Walmart. “Our target consumers are mainly teens and young women who are much dialed into trends, fashion and what’s new now,” she told HAPPI. “They want products that are convenient, show results and give instant gratification.” For example, the company’s Beach Babe Spray is a current bestseller. “You just spritz it onto wet hair for a ‘just left the beach’ look, cutting primp time down to nothing. Instant gratification and a hot easy style!” Sherbet said. Sandra Smith, an artistic designer for Matrix, Dalton, GA, agreed. “This season, the two key trends in hair are texture and control, so styling products that support those features are popular,” happi.com

she said. One example of better texture is the new Matrix Design Pulse Beach Clay, which creates strong, matte, reworkable styles. And for control, the new Design Pulse Mix in Shine is a polishing serum that provides a lightweight, controlled finish. Both products are available in salons this month. Speaking of polish, smooth yet controlled hair remains another goal of most American women, according to Steven Goddard, president and founder, Pravana Naturceuticals, Woodland Hills, CA. Products that can help achieve and maintain this look are the ones in demand. “This certainly includes the many serums which have been prevalent in the market for the last two years,”he explained. “Serums are great,” agreed Loren Ridinger, senior vice president of Market America, Inc., Greensboro, NC, which is releasing a new hair care line this season called Fixx. “First, they help keep unruly frizz under control and make your hair easier to comb and style—which, in turn, will reduce breakage.” Stickier formulations that hold and happi • 69

• Hair Styling

In Alterna’s new Bamboo Shine line, a styling cream and mist round out the mix of offerings.

shape hair are also on the rise. According to Mike Gilman, founder of Grooming Lounge, Washington, DC, a source for men’s grooming products and services, waxes and pomades seem to be increasingly popular this year. Why? “Waxes are easy to use and great for both conservative or more textured tossled looks,” he told HAPPI. “Pomades are also very popular for guys who have a style with a bit more length. They have appropriate hold with a high shine, so it’s great for anyone that’s seeking either a conservative, parted look, or a slicked-back

Get Your Fix

All About Ingredients As far as hair styling components (see our listing of the latest ingredients on p. 75), exotic extracts and oils are de rigueur now, according to Kuen Rameson, president of Gloss Moderne, Newport Beach, CA. His company’s products feature Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, which functions as a protective antioxidant; Betholletia excelsa flower

fruit. Coconut and olive oil detangles and softens dry tresses.
 More info: www.biolage.com

Here’s a look at the latest rollouts in the hairstyling marketplace for Spring 2011.

• New göt2b Powder’ful Volumizing Styling Powder ($5.99) is formulated with virtually weightless micro-particles that help texturize the hair’s surface, giving hair radical root lift in 10 seconds flat, according to the company. More info: www.got2b.us

• Suave is rolling out the red carpet for the new Suave Professionals styling line ($2.99), said to works as well as salon brands. The reformulated and redesigned range features everything from an anti-frizz serum to heat protection spray. More info: www.suave.com • VO5’s new Perfect Hold Styling Line ($2), in four different applications, is formulated with a unique polymer blend that assures allday hold with a lightweight feel, according to the company. The collection features everything from hairspray to mousses. More info: www.vo5.com • The new TreSemmé Climate Control Collection ($4.49) helps achieve salon quality hair every day, regardless of the weather. Formulated with a Climate Control Complex, which contains olive oil, keratin, UV blockers and polymers, it creates a barrier between hair and the weather, according to the company. More info: www.TreSemmé.com • Biolage’s new Hydrathérapie Hydra-Seal Softening Mist ($14) is said to continuously moisturize hair with the anti-dry care of aloe and passion 70 • happi

style. Guys also like that pomades are very easy to use and can be used in both towel dried or dry hair.” Hair styling products are also using innovative applicators for Spring 2011. For example, the brush-on Volumizing Dry Shampoo Lift Powder from Keratin Complex provides an instant tress transformation, according to the company. This portable powder instantly refreshes and adds volume. Plus, an exclusive pure hydrolyzed keratin permeates strands to nourish and strengthen locks.

• The latest Organix hair care collection, Renewing Moroccan Argan Oil, includes fair trade argan oil, a powerful antioxidant that is rich in vitamins to restore shine while strengthening elasticity, according to the company. Renewing Moroccan Argan Oil Penetrating Oil ($7.79) is said to fight frizz and style the tresses. More info: www.beautypureandsimple.com • Body by Blow mousse ($19.75), new at Ulta, is designed to provide style and control without the tackiness of a traditional mousse. The rich whipped foam texture offers touchable hair without residue or crunch, according to the company. Heat activators also polish hair. More info: www.blowNY.com • A big launch in the men’s category this season is Axe’s newest styling innovation, Axe Buzzed Look Cream + SPF 15 ($7). It is the brand's first and only product with SPF and protects the scalp from UVA/UVB rays, too. More info: www.theaxeeffect.com

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March 2011

• Hair Styling

new and unique form,” he said. Alterna just launched Bamboo Smooth Kendi Pure Treatment Oil, made from rich kendi nuts found on the island of Sulawesi, Indonesia. Kendi Oil is said to fight frizz (one of the most common hair complaints) and strengthens tresses. Alterna is also taking oils to the next level with two new forms of oil-based Not Your Mother’s hair care is a new range of styling products available products: Bamboo at Walmart. Smooth Kendi Dry Oil extract to deliver proteins and nutrients; Mist; a lighter, dryer spray oil for finer hair and Passiflora incarnata (true passion types, and Caviar Seasilk Oil Gel; an oil flower) fruit extract, a natural antioxidant and gel “in-one” product. Besides adding luster, today’s styling clinically proven to promote relaxation. Gloss Modern’s High-Gloss Serum is a products also must offer flexible hold with top-selling product at Rameson’s company, modern ingredients that can be layered or a serum that gives a “mega-lacquer” finish. “cocktailed” together for customized style, Michael Shaun Corby, global creative noted Angelia Polsinelli, senior director of director at Alterna Professional Haircare in North American education, Joico, Arcadia, Beverly Hills, CA, concurs that right now, CA. Her company’s latest line of stylers for thinning hair, Clinicure, target such issues. it’s all about oils. “When it comes to thinning hair, the “Oils blend treatment and styling, offering a dual purpose product in a natural, buzz is lightweight, natural feeling stylers

Pravana offers a collection of styling products chock full of natural ingredients to nourish tresses.

that make the hair feel thicker without feeling gritty, dry or dull,”she told HAPPI.“Lines like Joico’s Clinicure offer stylers that use botanical technology to thicken, hold and add featherweight shine to natural or chemically-treated thinning hair. Ingredients like bamboo extract, acacia gum and quinoa replace old PVP film formers and resins that can build up.” Fernando Salas, chief executive officer/ founder of White Sands Hair Care, Inc., Irvine, CA, said the opposite about ingredients—it’s not the components that make the magic of hair styling standouts, but the delivery mechanisms. “What seems to be really popular are natural ingredients that are great to talk

Hair Styling Sales Maintain in 2010 Sales of hair spray and spritz products rose 1.2% to $412.4 million in U.S. supermarkets, drugstores and mass merchandisers excluding Walmart for the year ended Dec. 26, 2010, according to The SymphonyIRI Group of Chicago, IL. Sales of hair styling/setting gel/mousse SKUs were nearly flat at $632.4 million. Here’s a look at the top 5 products in each category.

HAIR SPRAY/SPRITZ TRESEMME TRES TWO HAIR SPRAY/SPRITZ SUAVE HAIR SPRAY/SPRITZ SALON GRAFIX HAIR SPRAY/SPRITZ BIG SEXY HAIR HAIR SPRAY/SPRITZ GARNIER FRUCTIS STYLE FLL CONTRL HAIR SPRAY/SPRITZ HAIR STYLING/SETTING GEL/MOUSSE AMERICAN CREW HAIR STYLING/SETTING GEL/MOUSSE GOT 2B GLUED HAIR STYLING/SETTING GEL/MOUSSE FRIZZ EASE HAIR STYLING/SETTING GEL/MOUSSE CLAIROL HERBL ESSNCS TTLLY TWSTD HAIR STYLING/SETTING GEL/MOUSSE TRESEMME FLAWLESS CURLS HAIR STYLING/SETTING GEL/MOUSSE 72 • happi

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Dollar Sales

Dollar Sales % Chg YAgo

Unit Sales

Unit Sales % Chg YAgo

$412,376,000 $51,817,460 $24,901,730 $21,706,500 $12,075,730 $11,635,840 $632,383,900 $27,356,910 $19,788,410 $12,311,520 $10,546,580 $9,392,833

1.20 11.60 (3.07) 1.17 (1.33) (4.77) 0.18 5.07 2.95 (4.98) (2.07) (5.09)

107,322,200 15,389,340 10,418,670 5,146,830 739,061 3,370,104 134,829,000 1,811,391 4,147,485 2,201,812 3,515,558 2,449,709

(0.74) 12.11 (4.20) 1.10 (1.94) (8.78) (1.06) 1.37 5.39 (3.85) (2.74) (2.82)

March 2011

REVOLUTION IN HAIR CARE

TILAMAR® – MOST INNOVATIVE POLYMERS

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DSM Nutritional Products is setting new standards in hair care with the introduction of its TILAMAR® products for hair styling, conditioning and shine. DSM can build on more than 50 years of experience and success in polymer technology. This knowledge has helped to apply polymer technology in novel applications in the hair care industry and

to create a high performance range of unique and innovative TILAMAR® polymers. DSM‘s strong active ingredients, application suppport and knowledge of consumer needs and trends helps ensure that hair care manufacturers can create successful products. Create YOUR advantage from OUR experience.

• Hair Styling

about, but don’t have much in the performance department,” he told HAPPI. “For example, most gels on the market today are alcohol driven and make hair dry, flake and hard to the touch.” As a result, White Sands created two

different types of gels—a “mega volume” Designer Gel and a“moderate volume/high shine”Glaze Plus with a water delivery system that will not dry the hair out, and has a low pH balance that has the desired holding power and is soft to the touch.

So, what are upcoming trends in hair styling SKUs for 2011 and beyond? According to industry insiders, innovative ingredients and versatile stylers are growing trends that are going to hit it big next in the hair care business. “I think we will continue to see lots of dual and multipurpose products for men and women on the go,” said Corby of Alterna. “We will also see some new innovation in the semi-permanent styling world, for that same busy consumer.” “Look for more targeted products that perform in highly specific ways, but can also be combined with other products for completely customized results,” added Smith of Matrix.

Shaping Up the Future Smooth, healthy-looking hair will also continue to be in vogue. According to Goddard of Pravana, a “glass-like shine” will remain a primary focus this year. “The most sought-after items will be products that can smooth without any associated health risks and without compromising the integrity of the hair fiber,” he told HAPPI. “Styling products which can support and enhance this look will be in greatest demand.” Rameson of Gloss Moderne agrees.“The use of technology in luxury hair care—creating high-performance products that provide relentless thermal protection—makes an indulgent experience for the senses as well as startling shine,”he said. Innovative solutions for traditional resins, polymers and film formers are also paramount for styling products currently in development, according to Polsinelli of Joico. The emergence of botanical ingredients that are hybridized from nature and mimic older ingredients’ performance but in a more modern, lightweight way will lead innovation, she said. Overall, marketers can look to the beauty aisles now to see what’s selling…and what’s not. “The breakthroughs of tomorrow are present today,” said Salas of White Sands. “From our point of view, the question is not what is coming, but what is here already.”• 74 • happi

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March 2011

Hair Styling Ingredients Here is a list of new hair styling ingredients introduced by industry suppliers during the past 12 months. To learn more about the materials listed here, contact the suppliers directly using the information provided.

AkzoNobel Global Personal Care Bridgewater, NJ Tel: 888-331-6212 Email: [email protected] Website: www.akzonobel.com/personalcare DynamX H2O INCI: Polyurethane-14 (and) AMP-acrylates copolymer Suggested use levels: 1–10% Applications: Ethnic hair, hair gel, mousse, styling product Comments: Alcohol-free DynamX H2O polymer is a unique urethane-acrylic fixative polymer designed for use in styling products including gels, mousses, waxes, creams, pomades and thermal protection products. It provides strong, flexible durable hold and exceptional high humidity curl retention giving the formulator a broad range of formulating flexibility. Naviance Tapioca INCI: Tapioca starch Suggested use levels: 1–5% Applications: Conditioner, ethnic hair, hair gel, moisturizer, mousse, shampoo, styling product, hair treatment Comments: Naviance Tapioca certified organic biopolymer is an all-natural rheology modifier, supplied as a white powder that provides thickening and film formation properties and at the same time is compatible with typical cosmetic raw materials. March 2011

Angus Chemical Company Buffalo Grove, IL Tel: 800-447-4369, 989-832-1560 Email: [email protected] Website: www.angus.com AMP-Ultra PC INCI: Aminomethyl propanol Suggested use levels: 1-2% depending on acidity of polymer and the required neutralization level Applications: Hair spray Comments: Today’s consumers are constantly on the go—and so is their hair. There is a personal care neutralizer available to minimize the performance of a wide range of hair styling products so that consumers can have great, long-lasting hair. AMP-Ultra PC neutralizing amine from Angus is the global industry standard for hair styling products, bringing unique performance benefits to a range of styling attributes, including high humidity curl retention, hair washability and product stability.

Centerchem, Inc. Norwalk, CT Tel: 203-822-9800 Email: [email protected] Website: www.centerchem.com Keratrix INCI: Aqua, glycerin, hydrolyzed ceratonia siliqua seed extract, zea mays starch, guar happi.com

hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-7 Suggested use levels: 1-5% Applications: Hair care, styling products Comments: Keratrix is a restorative natural active for damaged and weakened hair. It increases hair resistance and elasticity, improves its barrier function, regains its integrity and strengthens its fibers. Keratrix can be added to leave-on and rinse-off hair care formulations, as well as styling products and dyes.

Chemsil Silicones Inc. Chatsworth, CA Tel: 877-700-0302 Email: [email protected] Website: www.chemsil.com Microsil Finish INCI: Hydroxypropyl tetramethyl piperdinyl dimethicone (and) cetrimonium bromide (and) cetrimonium chloride (and) C11-C15 pareth-7 (and) trideceth-6 Suggested use levels: 8-12% Applications: Premium cream conditioners, clear conditioners, leave-on treatments Comments: Balanced combination of cationic hindered amino silicone polymer with premium cationic organic quaternium salts. Microsil Finish provides multiple benefits with the simple addition of <5% fatty alcohols. It also provides excellent hair highlights, softness, shine and anti-frizz properties. happi • 75

• New Hair Styling Ingredients

Cognis Corp. (Now Part of BASF) Division Laboratoires Serobiologiques Ambler, PA Tel: 800-668-6023, ext. 251 Email: [email protected]; [email protected] Website: www.labserobio.com Purisilk SPB LS 9854 INCI: Water (and) glycerin (and) PVP (and) moringa pterygosperma seed extract Suggested use levels: 1-2% Applications: Hair styling for curly hair Comments: Complex of naturally substantive cationic moringa proteins and a styling polymer for improvement of curl definition and hold with a natural effect (no buildup). Paraben and preservative free. Phytosleek LS 9817 INCI: Water (and) hydrolyzed soy protein (and) polyquaternium-4 (and) PPG-1PEG-9 lauryl glycol ether Suggested use levels: 3-5% Applications: Leave-on hair styling products, anti-frizz/straightening effect Comments: Combination of soy protein and quaternized polymer for a 3-in-1 efficacy. Anti-frizz (even in high humidity conditions), conditioning and styling with a natural look and feel. Paraben free.

Croda Inc. Edison, NJ Tel: 732-417-0800 Email: [email protected] Website: www.croda.com/na/pc Chromaveil INCI: Quaternium-95 (and) propanediol Suggested use levels: 1-10% Applications: Mousses, styling products Comments: Give your hair color broadspectrum UV protection. Protect against hair color fade from UVA exposure and preserve the hair fiber integrity. Consumer perceivable results in salon panel evaluations.

Dow Personal Care Midland, MI Tel: 800-447-4369, 989-832-1560 Email: [email protected] 76 • happi

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Website: www.DowPersonalCare.com Acudyne 1000 INCI: Acrylates/hydroxyesters acrylates copolymer Suggested use levels: 3-7% solids for hair sprays; 1-2% solids for gels and mousses Applications: Low VOC aerosol sprays, pump sprays, spray gels, gels, mousses and lotions Comments: Patented Dual Phase (soft and hard Tg) polymer composition provides outstanding hold with high humidity curl retention, long lasting style control and no flaking. Acudyne DHR INCI: Acrylates/hydroxyesters acrylates copolymer Suggested use levels: 3-7% solids for hair sprays, 1-2% solids for gels and mousses Applications: Low VOC aerosol sprays, pump sprays, styling gels, mousses and lotions Comments: Patented Dual Phase (soft and hard Tg polymer composition) delivers superior all-day hold with supple feel and no flaking. Provides excellent humidity resistance, superior hair shine and offers thermal protection of hair from curling irons. Acudyne 180 INCI: Acrylates/hydroxyesters acrylates copolymer Suggested use levels: 3-7% solids for hair sprays; 1-2% solids for gels and mousses Applications: Low VOC aerosol sprays, pump sprays, styling gels and mousses Comments: Designed for high-performance sprays and pump formulations and styling gels. Provides excellent humidity resistance, no flaking and offers a very natural hair feel.

DSM Nutritional Products Parsippany NJ Tel: 800-526-0189 Email: [email protected] Website: www.unlimitednutrition-na.dsm.com Tilamar Fix A1000 INCI: Acylates copolymer Suggested use levels: 3-5% Applications: Aerosol hair spray Comments: Tilamar Fix A1000 delivers March 2011

New Hair Styling Ingredients

outstanding performance for extra strong hold based on high humidity curl retention that exceeds technology benchmarks. It’s free from stickiness on hair and provides a natural feel and look.

DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products

Jeesilc PS-DMLV INCI: Dimethicone and bis vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer Suggested use levels: 1-10% Applications: Conditioners, anti-frizz hair serums, anhydrous formulations,

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pomades, ethnic hair, mousses, combing creams, sprays Comments: Easy to incorporate liquid high molecular weight film former with a nontacky elegant feel. Adds lubricity, conditioning and volume to hair by coating the

Wilmington, DE Tel: 866-404-7933 Email: [email protected] Website: www.duponttateandlyle.com Zemea INCI: Propanediol Suggested use levels:Varies depending on application Applications: Shampoos, conditioners, styling products Comments: Zemea propanediol is a 100% natural glycol alternative that has several performance benefits in hair care applications. Hair tress studies conducted in the U.S. indicate that in a shampoo formulation, Zemea was rated higher than alternative glycols in ease of spreading during shampoo application, ease of wet detangling, wet and dry combing and improved body/fullness. Hair tress and consumer perception studies conducted in Japan indicate increased moisturization levels and increased perception of smoothness and softness.

Jeen International Fairfield, NJ Tel: 973-439-1401 Email: [email protected] Website: www.jeen.com Jeequat NDCS-Powder INCI: Cetyl alcohol and behentrimonium chloride and cocamidopropyl betaine and sorbitan laurate Suggested use levels: 3-7% Applications: Hair conditioners, skin creams and lotions Comments: Cold-process, ready to use, skin care and hair care cationic conditioner concentrate naturally derived (rapeseed oil) containing behentrimonium chloride. Hydrophile/lipophile balanced to ensure the highest viscosity, highest conditioning effect and lowest cost for your formulation. March 2011

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• New Hair Styling Ingredients

hair shaft with a water resistant film that functions as a protective barrier upon dry down. Shine enhancement and smooth feel and easy shampoo removability. Jeelux VHIPM INCI: Isopropyl myristate and isododecane and bis vinyl dimethicone/dimethicone copolymer Suggested use levels: 3-25% Applications: Conditioners, anti-frizz hair serums, anhydrous formulations, pomades, ethnic hair, mousses, combing creams, sprays Comments: Jeelux VHIPM is a high molecular weight silicone film-former with enhanced compatibility in oil and ester based systems. Copolymer useful as a film-former that confers conditioning properties such as good wet and dry combability, smooth feel, volume, shine and manageability without a buildup of residue on the hair. When hair drying or during hot curling, volatile carrier

evenly deposits copolymer film protecting hair from heat damage.

Koster Keunen

(Distributed by Brenntag Specialties Inc.) Watertown, CT Tel: 860-945-3333, 800-732-0562 Email: [email protected] Website: www.kosterkeunen.com, www.brenntagspecialties.com Orange Peel Wax INCI: Citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel wax Suggested use levels: 1-5% Applications: Styling aids, conditioners and conditioning shampoos Comments: Orange wax is an NPA certified natural ingredient derived from orange peel, nature’s equivalent to lanolin. It will add gloss and acts as an emollient. Contains phytosterols that have soothing

effects to the scalp. Bees Milk and Carnauba Milk INCI: Beeswax, sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil, lecithin, sorbitan stearate, caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol, hexylene glycol INCI: Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax, ceteareth 20, lecithin, caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol, hexylene glycol Suggested use levels: 3-8% Applications: Hair care styling aids, conditioners Comments: Bees milk and carnuba milk are sprayable wax dispersions in water for cold processing. They both offer a convenient way to add wax to a formula for its film forming, opacifying and emolliency properties. Both ingredients are stable and compatible with alcohols and with high surfactant loading, also with compounds with high ionic strength such as quaternary compounds.

    


             

  
    

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happi.com

March 2011

New Hair Styling Ingredients

Lipo Chemicals, Inc. Paterson, NJ Tel: 973-345-8600 Email: [email protected] Website: www.lipochemicals.com Cation NH INCI: C10-40 isoalkylamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate (and) buthylene glycol (and) C10-40 isoalkyl acid. Suggested use levels: 1-5% Applications: Hair conditioner/treatment, styling, shampoos, hair color and perming products Comments: Cation NH has been shown to prevent damage to hair with pretreatment prior to bleaching, perming and/or dying. Repair the damage done by bleaching, perming and/or dying. Restore the hair’s natural hydrophobicity. Restore hair’s natural tensile strength and conditions hair. Neosolue Aqulio INCI: Bis-ethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1,4dicarboxylate. Suggested use levels: 2% Applications: Hair care and styling Comments: Neosolue-Aqulio is an ester oil that is soluble in both oil and water. It enhances the penetration of active ingredients into hair. Lipobutter Refined Organic Babassu INCI: Orbignya oleifera seed oil Suggested use levels: 1-10% Applications: Hair conditioners, styling aids, hair creams Comments: Rich in lower molecular weight saturated triglycerides, exhibits outstanding stability, is high in lauric acid and it is an excellent film former.

Lubrizol/Noveon Consumer Specialties Cleveland, OH Tel: 216-447-5000 Email: [email protected] Website: www.lubrizol.com/personalcare Fixate Freestyle Polymer INCI: Acrylates crosspolymer-3 Suggested use levels: 1.0-5.0 wt% total solids (3.2-16.1 wt% as supplied) Applications: Classic hair gels in jars and tubs, hair gels with extreme short flow and ultra-high stiffness, hair gels in plastic March 2011

•

tubes, non-aerosol pump sprays, styling waxes, pastes, putties, puddings and glues. Comments: When combined with Carbopol rheology modifiers, this innovative, patent pending hair fixative polymer delivers excellent humidity resistance and allows hold strength to be tailored from light to ultra-high stiffness without a significant change in gel viscosity or flow characteristics. Hair gels formulated with Fixate Freestyle polymer exhibit short flow, excellent pickup, air bubble suspension, high clarity and smooth gel appearance making them suitable for a wide range of packaging from clear jars to tubes to pump spray bottles.

Seppic Fairfield, NJ/Paris, France Tel: 973-882-5597 Email: [email protected] Website: www.seppic.com Sepimax Zen INCI: Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 Suggested use levels: 0.5-5% Applications: Skin care, sun care, hair care Comments: Sepimax Zen is unique as a polymer in hair styling application in particular for translucent gels. It is compatible with the raw materials used in styling; i.e., PVP, silicones, alcohols, etc. •

Looking for a New Sun Care Ingredient? A listing of sun care ingredients begins on page 102 in this month’s edition of HAPPI. For other recently introduced new ingredients in the household and personal care marketplace, as well as breaking news updated daily, visit www.happi.com.

happi.com

happi • 79

Remedies to the Rescue They may be less sexy than their anti-aging counterparts, but OTC and medicated personal care products address a range of maladies that affect consumers’ skin, how they feel and their self-esteem. Christine Esposito • Associate Editor

O

VER-THE-COUNTER (OTC) and medicated skin care products address a wide range of issues ranging from minor scrapes, calluses and diaper rash to mood-altering maladies like acne, cold sores and chronic pain. Although they are more utilitarian in nature than say, a luxury skin créme, these formulations often ascend to “must-have” status with consumers. Crow’s feet and age spots take time to develop, but other problems—a pimple before prom or a raging diaper rash—seem to catch people off guard, and call for a quick trip to the local pharmacy in search of a remedy that works fast. When consumers get there, they often gravitate to venerable brands and companies they trust—the stalwarts like Neosporin to treat a cut, Desitin for diaper rash, Cortizone 10 for itchy skin, Clearasil for acne breakouts and Abreva for cold sores.

March 2011

But private label packs a powerful punch, especially when consumers are operating on tighter budgets. In fact, industry observers have pointed to an overarching trend across the OTC/medicated skin care market in which private label products are eating away at branded products’ share. “As consumers are more cost-conscious, they are trusting private label products more than they did in the past,” said Laura Mahecha, industry manager, healthcare at Kline & Co., Little Falls, NJ. According to data from SymphonyIRI Group, a Chicago-based market research firm, sales of first aid ointment/antiseptics topped $466 million for the 52 weeks ended Nov. 28, 2010 in supermarkets, drug stores and mass outlets, excluding Walmart, with private label leading the way at $211.23 million. There’s a similar story in the $325 million anti-itch treatment sector (see chart). happi.com

Private label, at more than $89 million, trumps a distant second place Cortizone 10 at $43.9 million, according to SymphonyIRI. Yet, while private label products sit atop some sectors, there are situations where branded products remain the category leaders. “Pediatric products in general are somewhat New Clearasil Ultra more insulated Acne+Marks Wash/Mask from private contains areaumat extracts, label competisaid to soothe redness. happi • 81

• OTC/Medicated Skin Care

The Stopain franchise is now owned by Troy Healthcare LLC.

tion because parents may be skeptical to use private label products on babies and kids,” Mahecha told HAPPI.

Spend a Buck When it comes to caring for their children’s skin ailments, most new parents look to tried-and-true solutions from brands they recognize. That bodes well for companies with larger marketing budgets and those that pediatricians talk up during office visits. “With the turn of the new year, Desitin brand continues to be the No. 1 choice of pediatricians and moms,” said Ivy Brown,

group brand director, Johnson’s Baby and Desitin brands, who pointed out that the brand has the“largest dollar share of the diaper rash segment and continues to drive overall segment growth.” While“left over cost-consciousness”has benefitted lower priced brands and private label, Mahecha said, “consumers are receptive to buying brands, if there are compelling reasons to buy them.” Industry trackers say there’s often a direct correlation between increased ad spending and coupon drops and sales gains in the OTC/medicated market. Johnson & Johnson keeps the Desitin

name fresh in the minds of über-caring moms and dads, spending some $2 million on advertising (excluding internet and spot TV spending) in the first half of 2010, according to The Nielsen Company. The Desitin franchise—which includes a Rapid Relief Cream with 13% zinc oxide, a clear multi-purpose format designed to be used all over the body, and Maximum Strength Original Paste—is welcoming another addition: Desitin Soothing Rash Bath Treatment. Due out in June, it is designed to soothe irritated skin with a formulation that combines colloidal oatmeal with aloe and vitamin E. J&J employs a similar strategy in the antibiotic/first aid category. Through the first half of 2010, the firm spent more than $10 million on advertising (excluding internet and spot TV spending) across its Neosporin platform and has updated the venerable franchise with new items like Neo to Go, and more recently, lipcare SKUs. “Despite the fact that Neosporin is exactly the same as the store brand, it still has the lion’s share of the market,” said Kline’s Mahecha.“It is an old brand, but they have created something new to talk about with consumers.”

Here’s the Rub Just as it moved Desitin and Neosporin into new areas like bath and lip care, J&J has

A Healing Market Private label products lead the way in several OTC/medicated skin care categories. Here are sales of leading anti-itch treatments and first aid ointments/antiseptics in supermarkets, drug stores and mass merchandise outlets (excluding Walmart) for the 52 weeks ended Nov. 28, 2010, according to SymphonyIRI Group.

ANTI ITCH TREATMENTS (INC CALAMINE) PRIVATE LABEL ANTI ITCH TREATMENTS (INC CALAMINE) CORTIZONE 10 ANTI ITCH TREATMENTS (INC CALAMINE) BENADRYL ANTI ITCH TREATMENTS (INC CALAMINE) LOTRIMIN A F ANTI ITCH TREATMENTS (INC CALAMINE) CORTIZONE 10 PLUS ANTI ITCH TREATMENTS (INC CALAMINE)

FIRST AID OINTMENTS/ANTISEPTICS PRIVATE LABEL FIRST AID OINTMENTS/ANTISEPTICS NEOSPORIN FIRST AID OINTMENTS/ANTISEPTICS MEDERMA FIRST AID OINTMENTS/ANTISEPTICS HIBICLENS FIRST AID OINTMENTS/ANTISEPTICS POLYSPORIN FIRST AID OINTMENTS/ANTISEPTICS 82 • happi

Dollar Sales

Dollar Sales % Chg YAgo

Unit Sales

Unit Sales % Chg YAgo

$325,139,200

7.24

54,593,790

4.05

$89,428,420 $43,929,730 $26,269,950 $15,543,830 $13,296,500

7.49 32.20 (10.40) 24.45 11.11

20,065,510 6,851,611 4,520,941 1,734,279 2,119,180

2.29 24.38 (12.71) 21.26 9.42

$466,493,900

1.36

130,114,300

(0.76)

$211,223,000 $100,172,800 $28,018,740 $10,395,840 $9,395,696

3.50 5.53 1.82 21.95 1.92

90,947,640 17,188,510 1,336,656 1,038,278 1,335,710

(0.42) 7.82 (3.14) 21.93 2.23

happi.com

March 2011

• OTC/Medicated Skin Care

According to Symphoalso pushed Tylenol into nyIRI data, Stopain tallied new territory—painsales of $5.6 million last relieving heat patches and year in mass outlets, drug a topical cream that adstores and food stores (exdress everything from cluding Walmart). Albackaches to headache to though sales were up sprains to bruises. nearly 7.5% and units Tylenol Precise, which unfortunately rolled out The Desitin franchise is expecting… jumped 8.5%, Troy offiduring last year’s rash of a new Soothing Rash Bath Treatment. cials contend there was money left on the table. Tylenol and other McNeil “The former company didn’t really have brand recalls, is taking on established heat patch/wrap products like Therma- the wherewithal to take the brand where it care and rubs including market-leading could be. We saw the growth and loyalty in Icy Hot (now part of the Sanofi stable via the marketplace as a great opportunity for its acquisition of Chattem), Ben Gay and us,”Anthony J. Cicini, director of sales and marketing told HAPPI. Aspercreme. But other brands are fighting for He should know; Troy Healthcare is a share, including a “newcomer” in Troy subsidiary of Troy Manufacturing Inc., which Healthcare LLC, a Hazelton, PA com- has manufactured Stopain since 2002. pany, which recently acquired the The range—which was among the first Stopain brand from DRJ Group. topical pain relievers to go “hands-free”

with spray delivery and roll-on applicators—has carved out a niche with arthritis and chronic pain sufferers and has been a supporter of the Arthritis Foundation, donating a portion of each purchase to the organization since 2009. Since closing the deal in January, Troy has already revamped Stopain’s packaging and has expanded the line by introducing a new, non-greasy gel format. The new gel is scheduled to hit the shelves in all 7,000-plus Walgreen’s stores next month. The Stopain Pain Relieving Gel is said to contain 38% more menthol than any other product in the cooling gel category. Cicini sees a bright future for the entire topical analgesic category. “There is a trend to pain relief without pills. As the American public gets more educated, they don’t want to take pills and they are looking at ingredients,” he said, boasting Stopain’s “made in America”

En complément de ses actifs « Innovation », SILAB propose une nouvelle gamme d’actifs « les incontournables SILAB » : Actifs d’origine naturelle objectivés grâce à des études in-vitro et in-vivo « les incontournables SILAB » s’imposent comme ingrédients essentiels de la cosmétique de soin. L’ingrédient de performance : il apporte l’efficacité ciblée et absolue au problème cutané. Sélectionné in-vitro sur un marqueur biologique spécifique fortement stimulé, il est validé in-vivo en comparaison à des molécules pharmacologiques de référence (Rétinol, peptides de synthèse, caféine…).

es SILAB

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84 • happi

happi.com

pe r

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Assurant une veille scientifique continue, disposant d’équipements high-tech et de chercheurs hautement qualifiés, SILAB, grâce à ses principes actifs « Les incontournables SILAB » et « Innovation », répond aux attentes du marché cosmétique mondial à la recherche de toujours plus d’efficacité et de nouveautés.

for m

L’actif multifonction : il garantit l’homéostasie cutanée et assure une efficacité vitale sur différents compartiments. Capable de réguler différentes voies biologiques, il apporte des réponses multiples aux déséquilibres cutanés.

n't actives you ca

March 2011

Mature Skin – is it too late for Cosmetics? REFORCYL ® – Nutrition & Resistance for Mature Skin

REFORCYL ® regenerates the delicate barrier of mature skin. 5 in 1 effect: Hydration, firmness, wrinkle depth, elasticity and skin smoothness are all markedly improved. Approved by ecocert.

Measurable activity

Visible results

After 4 weeks mature skin becomes – 32 % more hydrated (Corneometry) – 9 % more elastic and 14% firmer (Cutometry) – 11 % smoother (Primos)

After 4 weeks the wrinkle reduction in the crows feet area can be seen with the naked eye. Before application

After 4 weeks

Perceivable effects After 2 weeks consumers with mature skin report – reduction of itchiness (91% of volunteers) – enhancement of skin strength (70% of volunteers) – improvement of skin firmness and skin appearance (65% of volunteers)

North America: for further information please contact our partner Kinetik Technologies Kinetik Technologies, Inc. 8 Crown Plaza, Suite 103 Hazlet, NJ 07730 Tel 732-335-5775 Fax 732-335-0210 www.kinetiktech.com RAHN USA Corp. Aurora, Illinois USA [email protected] www.rahn-group.com

...setting the pace for personal care

• OTC/Medicated Skin Care

claims—from the ingredients and manufacturing process to the packaging it comes in. “We are one of the only brands that is in control of the entire process.” To generate more buzz about Stopain, Troy is ramping up a new social media campaign, which will complement other marketing efforts, including spot TV ads, check-out coupons via Catalina Marketing, print and trade publications. The goal, according to Cicini, is to get consumers to try the brand; the formulation’s effectiveness will take it from there. “With Stopain, you need to drive trial—our repeat pur-

86 • happi

chase is extremely good. They may try other brands, but when they come into the Stopain franchise, they stay,” he insisted.

Acne Is Big Business Perhaps nowhere in the OTC/medicated skin care market is the competition more heated than in the acne category. With options available from the dermatologist’s office, the local pharmacy, swank beauty stores, TV and internet, consumers have a plethora of treatments to pick from and multiple outlets in which to shop. Faced with steep competiNew from Pierre Fabre is Glytone Acne 3P Gel. tion, leading acne brands offer

happi.com

a mix of single-treatment type SKUs and complete regimens—and rely on savvy marketing campaigns designed to attract their core consumers. For Clearasil, that means teen-focused endeavors that utilize TV outlets and social media tools. Most recently, the Reckitt brand forged a partnership with MTV on the “Make the Clear Choice” campaign, which raises awareness and educates teens and young adults about important issues such as drug and alcohol abuse, sexual health and self-esteem. The promotion included a new “Make the Clear Choice” PSA featuring Suchin Pak, which premiered on MTV’s “10 Spot,” and a charity component utilizing its U.S. Facebook page. Product wise, Clearasil is rolling out a new line designed to get a “head start” on clear skin by accelerating the disappearance of the marks that come with acne. The range includes two SKUs: Clearasil Ultra Acne+Marks Spot Lotion and Clearasil Ultra Acne+Marks Wash/Mask. The lotion, ideal for spot treatment, works to help clear acne and reduce the appearance of visible marks via 2% salicylic acid, niacinamide and licorice root extract. The double-duty wash/mask contains areaumat extracts, said to soothe redness. ClickR Skin Care, a new skin line stocked at Sephora, is also targeting teenagers, evidenced by its decision to enlist Cam Gigandet of “Twilight” fame as its celebrity spokesperson. The actor will promote ClickR’s complete range, including acne-focused collections called No More Derma Drama and Figure It Out, both of which boast benzoyl peroxidefree formulations. But far and away, the acne line with the biggest celebrity following is Proactiv. And while Guthy-Renker LLC benefits from celebrity endorsements, YouTube videos and Tweets from Jessica Simpson, Katy Perry and Justin Bieber, company officials say Proactiv’s success stems from the effectiveness of the formulation created by Drs. Katie Rodan and Kathy Fields. “The true reason behind Proactiv’s success is that it works,” Kimber Maderazzo, March 2011

• OTC/Medicated Skin Care

with conventional BPO formusenior vice president of lations. New PanOxyl Acne product marketing, told Creamy Wash 4% BPO and 8% HAPPI. “If it didn’t work, it BPO boast thick, creamy formuwouldn’t have continued to lations and are said to provide exgrow and get new customers cellent efficacy and rapid for 16 years.” reduction in acne lesions. But even a great formulaBPO is also the talk at profestion can be improved. Last sional skin care companies that sell year, Guthy-Renker quietly products through dermatologists’ rolled out a modified formulaoffices. tion featuring an exclusive Jan Marini Skin Research micro-crystal pharmaceutical(JMSR) recently unveiled new grade benzoyl peroxide, which topical anti-aging and acne conis said to work faster and be trol technologies. Age Intervengentler on the skin, according tion Duality and Age Intervention to Maderazzo. Duality MD feature a dual-chamMicronization is also the ber dispensing system that comstory at Stiefel, maker of the bines anti-aging peptides and MaxClarity Acne Management antioxidants with retinol and BPO System. This OTC range boasts in efficacious and stable concenVersafoam technology and acne trations. fighting ingredients benzoyl perAge Intervention Duality will be oxide and salicylic acid. sold in the professionally dis“With Versafoam, the partipensed skin care market, while cles of these two acne fighting inAge Intervention Duality MD, gredients are micronized before which includes a higher concentrathe foam is created so they absorb tion of retinol, will be marketed quickly and effectively into your through physician ofskin,” said Jonathan fices. Commons, director La Roche-Posay combines micronized La Roche-Posay, anof global integrated benzoyl peroxide and lipo hydroxy acid other brand with communications for in its new Effaclar Duo Dual Action “derm-credibility,” has Stiefel, a GSK comAcne Treatment. also put the spotlight pany. “MaxClarity Foam is absorbed immediately, delivering on BPO, combining micronized benzoyl micro-particles that go right to work to peroxide (5.5%) and lipo hydroxy acid (0.4%) in new Effaclar Duo Dual Action clear up acne.” Acne Treatment, an OTC dual action acne treatment that is said to significantly reBPO in the Spotlight Benzoyl peroxide (BPO) is just one of a duce inflammatory and non-inflammanumber of go-to ingredients when it comes tory acne and is clinically proven as to acne solutions. For 2011, leading R&D effective as the leading acne prescription. Peter Foltis, director-scientific affairs, teams appear to be targeting new ways to enhance the effectiveness of this workhorse skin care at L’Oréal USA, addressed issues associated with BPO and the science beingredient. In May, Stiefel will ship two new BPO hind Effaclar. According to Foltis, a main difficulty for acne wash formulations for the OTC market that feature a patented delivery system formulators is to triturate BPO to an acincluding dimethyl isosorbide (DMI) which ceptable particle size. The reason for triturating is two-fold. solubilizes BPO and greatly reduces particulate-based skin irritation and inflamma- “The first,” he said, “is to increase surface tion they say users commonly experience area to allow for dissolution. Once is solu88 • happi

happi.com

tion, BPO can penetrate into the follicle, which contributes to efficacy. The second purpose is to improve tolerance. With a uniform dispersion of BPO, you improve tolerance by preventing high local concentrations of BPO on already inflamed skin. This prevents ‘hot spots’ from occurring.” Incorporating LHA allows Effaclar to address a main clinical feature of acne— hyperkeratinization of the follicle, according to Foltis. “LHA has been demonstrated in vitro to exfoliate more than salicylic acid itself, in fact six times more,” he said. Executives at Pierre Fabre’s Glytone brand are touting their own“breakthrough technology” in new Glytone Acne 3P Gel, which features a low concentration (5%) of micronized BPO and a 1% polyolprepolymer. “The polyolprepolymer technology is a patent-pending delivery system which allows for optimal efficacy together with the fact that there is no irritation. This is what sets the product apart from every other BPO OTC product on the market,” said Maureen Iannucci, Glytone product development manager. According to Iannucci, 3P’s patentpending technology forms a matrix that provides a reservoir gradient for time-released, targeted delivery of BPO to the epidermis—the site where P.acnes bacteria colonize. “This technology holds the actives within the epidermis and allows the micronized BPO to diffuse into the skin over time,” she said.

Always A Need …and a New Customer According to data from Mintel, after backto-back years of flat performance, sales of acne treatments are projected to rise from $369 million in 2009 to $417 million by 2014, most likely fueled by the recovering economy and the fact that a clear complexion is always in vogue. And let’s not forget about a steady stream of new customers. Tomorrow morning, hundreds of ‘tweens will wake up to their first pimple. • March 2011

Xtra Protection

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Discover a simpler solution to broad spectrum protection with Solaveil SpeXtra. Combining an exceptional level of UVA protection with high UVB efficacy, these innovative titanium dioxide (TiO2) dispersions uniquely allow you to formulate high SPF, broad spectrum sun protection products using a single active ingredient. Formulations containing Solaveil SpeXtra as the sole UV filter meet European Commission guidelines for UVA protection. Also, since TiO2 is approved worldwide as a UV filter, with Solaveil SpeXtra global sunscreen formulations are no longer a complex and frustrating challenge, but a straightforward reality.

Europe, Middle East & Africa email:[email protected] www.croda.com/europe/pc North America email:[email protected] www.crodausa.com/na/pc Latin America email:[email protected] www.croda.com/la/pc Asia Pacific email:[email protected] www.croda.com/asia

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Unprecedented broad spectrum protection

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Meets European UVA guidelines as a single active ingredient

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No compromise on SPF efficacy

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Physical shield to reduce UV-induced free radicals within the skin

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High solids dispersions in a choice of carrier fluids

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Silky, talc-like skin feel

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Globally approved with an Ecocert validated option available

Burnt Offerings The sun care market continues to post good gains, while marketers keep rolling out new products regardless of whether or not FDA issues its final ruling. Tom Branna • Editorial Director

W

FOOD AND DRUG Administration waffles over the Sunscreen Monograph, sales within the category continue to cook and marketers have a complete menu of new product offerings for 2011. According to data from SymphonyIRI Group, sales of suntan lotion and oil jumped more than 10% last year to $685.2 million (see chart). In fact, according to Mintel estimates, sales of sun protection and sunless tanning products increased nearly 50% since 2005 in food, drug and mass merchandisers. In a nod to recession-weary consumers, sales of private label products led the way, with sales last year surging more than 28% to $106.4 million, according to SymphonyIRI. In an effort to hold on to the No. 2 spot in the category and give fast-growing private label products a formulating challenge, Coppertone (a Merck brand) has several innovative products making their debut during the next month or so. Chief among them are Oil Free Foaming Sunscreen Lotion SPF 75+ and Water Babies Sunscreen Foaming Lotion SPF 75+. “We’ve done something innovative by creating two new foams,”explained Patricia Agin, a fellow at Coppertone’s Solar Research Center.“There is a continuing trend to create products that have a convenience feature to them.” According to Agin, the foams offer an

March 2011

HILE THE

alternative to consumers who don’t want to use alcohol-based sprays or traditional lotions which can be more difficult to rub in compared to foams. “We experimented with emulsion systems and came up with one that works well, is compatible with sunscreen ingredients and has a delightful feel,”she explained. For those seeking high performance in an ultra high SPF, the company is launching Coppertone Sport High Performance Sunscreen Lotion SPF 100+. The waterproof sunscreen is specially formulated for active adults and is ultra sweat-proof, so it won’t run into eyes and sting. It also contains antioxidants for extreme conditions. “We’ve had SPF 100 in our Water Babies line and in our Continuous Spray format, happi.com

but we found that with the Sport line there are people who like a lotion foam,” explained Agin.“They don’t want a spray, they want a lotion to apply and reapply. They want a high SPF and they want it in a moisturizing lotion without the alcohol.” Coppertone isn’t neglecting its Water Babies line in 2011. New Water Babies Sunscreen Foaming Lotion SPF 75+ promises to be soft and gentle for babies’ skin and offers broad spectrum, waterproof sun protection. Water Babies Pure & Simple Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50 provides tear-free, broad-spectrum sun protection in a 2oz. size that Coppertone maintains is ideal for the diaper bag. The formula is oil- and fragrance-free and is said to be extremely gentle to babies’ delicate skin and eyes. happi • 91

• Sun Care

At Hawaiian Tropic—another top player in food, drug and mass—sun care 2011 is all about shimmer. New Shimmer Effect Lotion Sunscreen is available in SPF 20 and SPF 40, as well as an aftersun lotion. Hawaiian Tropic calls them the only sunscreens that give skin instant radiance while providing broadspectrum UVA/UVB protection. The sunscreen lotion and after sun lotion both contain mica minerals to add a soft, subtle sheen. The formulas also include island botanicals, antioxidants and moisturizers. Avon, too, has an innovative sun care offering this summer. New Anti-Aging Sun Care with RepairShield Technology is designed to repair skin cell sun damage, while providing broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection. According to Avon, RepairShield Technology—the result of 10 years of research—is designed to help stimulate skin’s natural antioxidant defense system to help fight superoxides and to activate skin’s natural repair process. It works by boosting skin’s own antioxidants to fight free radicals

and repair skin cell sun damage by creating an optimal environment for cell recovery. The Anti-Aging Sun Care with RepairShield Technology lineup includes Sunscreen Face Lotion SPF 45, which promises to dramatically reduce the appearance of wrinkles and visible discolorations while effectively protecting the skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays. The Sunscreen Body Lotion SPF 30 is said to make skin feel dramatically tighter and more toned, as it protects skin from sun damage with a broadspectrum sunscreen. Each retails for $34. New from Aveeno is Hydrosport sunblock. It contains Active Naturals, which provide naturally derived water repelling technology for long-lasting, broad-spectrum protection, according to the brand. The line includes sprays (SPF 85 and 50) and lotion (SPF 85).

Doctors’ Orders Most sun care purchases occur on massmarket shelves, but there are some con-

sumers who seek advice from their dermatologists. In May, La Roche-Posay will roll out Anthelios 50 Mineral, which contains titanium dioxide along with something called Cell-Ox Shield, a patent-pending antioxidant complex featuring Senna Alata. The plant extract has a self-defense mechanism to protect against cell damage, according to the company. The SPF 50 product will retail for $31.95. Obagi, another derm-based sun care brand, has added a sunscreen to its NuDerm line. Obagi Nu-Derm Sun Shield SPF 50 contains 10.5% zinc oxide and 7.5% octinoxate and retails for $45. Obagi’s and La Roche-Posay’s prices are higher than those of traditional mass products, but there are more than a few consumers out there who are willing to pay more. A recent study by Unity Marketing found that affluent consumer confidence, the Luxury Consumption Index (LCI), improved by four points to reach

Sun Care Sales Surge 10% It was clear skies for sun care product manufacturers in 2010. Sales of suntan lotions, creams and oils in food, drug and mass merchandisers (excluding Walmart), topped $685 million for the year ended Dec. 26, 2010, according to SymphonyIRI Group. Here’s a look at the top 10 products in the category. Dollar Sales

Dollar Sales Dollar Share Dollar Share of % Chg YAgo of Type Type Chg YAgo

Unit Sales

Unit Sales % Avg Price Avg Price Per Chg YAgo Per Unit Unit Chg YAgo

SUNTAN LOTION & OIL

$685,268,900

10.56

100.00

-

84,554,580

8.84

$8.10

$0.13

PRIVATE LABEL SUNTAN LOTION & OIL

$106,407,900

28.56

15.53

2.17

17,952,190

27.29

$5.93

$0.06

COPPERTONE SPORT SUNTAN LOTION & OIL

$71,564,430

15.65

10.44

0.46

8,855,328

13.52

$8.08

$0.15

NEUTROGENA ULTRA SHEER SUNTAN LOTION & OIL

$55,715,940

19.51

8.13

0.61

5,383,236

13.98

$10.35

$0.48

BANANA BOAT SPORT PERFORMANCE SUNTAN LOTION & OIL

$29,596,080

22.40

4.32

0.42

4,746,808

38.00

$6.23

$(0.79)

HAWAIIAN TROPIC SUNTAN LOTION & OIL

$22,998,560

6.21

3.36

(0.14)

2,653,269

(1.25)

$8.67

$0.61

COPPERTONE SUNTAN LOTION & OIL

$22,109,990

(11.67)

3.23

(0.81)

2,468,269

(12.15)

$8.96

$0.05

BANANA BOAT SUNTAN LOTION & OIL

$21,628,040

1.20

3.16

(0.29)

3,464,228

(12.15)

$6.24

$0.82

COPPERTONE ULTRAGUARD SUNTAN LOTION & OIL

$19,279,620

23.06

2.81

0.29

2,094,567

30.67

$9.20

$(0.57)

COPPERTONE KIDS SUNTAN LOTION & OIL

$13,324,370

(1.51)

1.94

(0.24)

1,522,920

(2.01)

$8.75

$0.04

AUSTRALIAN GOLD SUNTAN LOTION & OIL

$13,054,570

33.20

1.91

0.32

1,595,985

30.22

$8.18

$0.18

Source: Infoscan Reviews, SymphonyIRI Group

92 • happi

happi.com

March 2011

SunCare For Healthy and Beautiful Looking Skin ■

Extended product portfolio for sophisticated sun care formulations

■

Broad-spectrum sun protection

■

Excellent skin care and repair

For more information, call 1.800.880.5768 or visit us at www.personal-care.basf.com.

BASF is the proud recipient of The Skin Cancer Foundation’s 2010 Skin Sense Award for leadership in UV protection.

• Sun Care

Coppertone Oil Free Foaming Lotion is a new way

Hawaiian Tropic’s Shimmer Effects Lotion gives

to apply sunscreen.

skin instant radiance.

76.1 in the first quarter of 2011. The survey was conducted January 6-13, 2011 among 1,237 affluent luxury consumers (average income $308,700; median net worth $861,000; age 43.9 yrs; 42% male and 58% female). “The uptick in this quarter’s LCI reveals a more positive outlook among affluent consumers about the economy at large, as well as increased optimism about their personal economic situation,” according to Pam Danziger, president of Unity Marketing.

High Priced Protection If the Unity Marketing data holds true, that bodes well for sun care companies competing in the high end of the sun care market. S&G Hampton Sun LLC is one such firm. Its line of products retail from $30 to $65 and president and owner Salvatore Piazzolla insists that he is trying to bring glamour back to the sun care category. After a soft launch in 2005 in 12 New York City doors and the Hamptons, the posh, celebrity-filled summer retreat on Long Island, Hampton Sun quickly ex-

When Will the Monograph Get Finalized?

A

S THE 2011 SUN CARE SEASON heats up in the U.S., nearly every observer has just about given up trying to determine when the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) will issue its final ruling on the Sunscreen Monograph. Industry sources had suggested that the ruling would get released last fall, but Autumn came and went and no ruling was issued. Moreover, there are still several active ingredients that must be addressed by FDA. “There are seven ingredients that have been buried at the FDA for 4 to 7 years now and (they represent) the only way we can achieve 4star, high SPF UVA ratings,” explained industry consultant and HAPPI columnist Nadim Shaath, president of Alpha Research & Development. Regarding the Time and Extent Application (TEA), he noted that the FDA has once again extended its deadline, this time to April 2011. At the same time, FDA has issued a “to be determined” deadline for new proposed rules for sunscreens combined with insect repellent. “Well at least they are honest by saying, ‘to be determined,’” observed Shaath. “I have given up on the business of predicting what the FDA is going to do.” One thing is for sure, consumers seem to be more confused than ever these days. Beauty Stat, a leading online interactive community and social marketing expert for the beauty industry, recently asked its more

94 • happi

Anew Solar Advance is new from Avon.

panded into hotels, resorts, cruise ships and spas. Today, the company has more than 400 points of distribution. Piazzolla told HAPPI that he expects to sign a contract with a big U.S. retailer in the near future and expand outside the country too. “Our products are for the person who takes sunbathing seriously and wants a high-end luxury product,” explained Piazzolla.“We use all natural, organic oils to replenish natural nutrients in the skin.” The Hampton Sun lineup includes 17 products, including Continuous Mist. An

than 30,000 followers: “Do you know the difference between the protection that sunscreens are said to provide (UVA and UVB)? Do you believe whole-heartedly that sunscreens do, in fact, prevent UV damage?” They heard back from a few of them and here is what they had to say: Tammy: “I developed hyperpigmentation on my face after using a sunscreen on my face. Prior to that summer, I had never used a sunscreen on my face and had no problems and after using the sunscreen that summer the hyperpigmentation developed.” Katja: “I know people hate sunscreens—bad for environment, bad for skin. But they do prevent me from bursting into flames and I appreciate that.” Jamie: “Well, I’ve been using the same UV protection facial cream for the last 12 years and so far so good! I can only hope that it’s doing its job!” Stephanie: “UVA causes aging (dark spots, collagen breakdown, wrinkles) UVB causes burning which may lead to skin cancer and actinic damage years later. Use a broad-spectrum block that protects against both. Reapply every couple hours. Don't forget to include your ears, back of your neck and hands...and scalp if also exposed.” Erin: “Clueless.” If the Beauty Stat audience is a microcosm of the total consumer views on the subject, it’s clear that more work remains to be done to educate consumers about the topic.

happi.com

March 2011

Visit us at

Stand G50

• Sun Care CLINICAL SPF TESTING INSTRUMENTATION SPF 55 mist debuted in late 2010 and SPF 15 and 35 variants are reaching shelves now. All three contain Polyester 8, which is a filmformer and skin conditioner. The SPF 55 variant recently received a Cosmetic Executive Women Beauty Award nomination in the prestige sun category. “Our business was up 33% last year and based on the new SKUs, I believe business will triple this year,” said Piazzolla. “Our goal is to take ownership of the luxury sun care market. The name is powerful, the packaging is classic and the formulas are brilliant—nothing is sticky or tacky. It is very silky and the epitome of luxury.”

Precision Solar Light Ultraviolet simulators and radiometers conform to FDA & COLIPA spectral irradiance standards for clinical SPF testing. Experience

Educating Consumers

Used worldwide for over 40 years, providing consistent SPF results, year after year, lab after lab.

Holly Thaggard, founder of Supergoop!, a line of sun care products, insists that the goal of her company is to educate consumers about the importance of proper sun care. The beauty industry veteran started the company in 2007 after a friend was diagnosed with melanoma and, as a new mom, she worried about the effects cumulative UV radiation would have on her blonde-haired daughter. After toying with the idea of forming a non-profit group to create a public health campaign, Thaggard decided that formulating a sun care product that the entire family could use would be the most effective way to spread the word about sun safety. “We wanted to provide a product solution for kids and their parents,” she recalled. “We didn’t want one formula for children, another for adults and another for active people. It’s just Supergoop! We steer clear of suggesting that a product is for a different age group because when you go that route consumers may outgrow their sun care habit.” Supergoop! may be a one-for-all and all-for-one product, but the company puts a lot of emphasis on what ingredients don’t go into the formula. In fact, if a material is on the International Chemical Secretariat’s SIN (Substitute It Now) list, you won’t find it in Supergoop!, according to Thaggard. “There are safer choices out there,” she insisted.“The list gives our partners, such as Healthy Child, Healthy World, the confidence to promote our products.” Supergoop! can be found in Sephora, Nordstrom, SpaceNK and Barney’s. The product line includes 14 different items. New

Enhanced Multiport™ Features NEW Exposure Positioning System Optional Mobile Work Station >95% SPOT UNIFORMITY

Sunscreen Symposium Set for September

T

100 EAST GLENSIDE AVE. GLENSIDE, PA 19038 USA Ph: 1-215-517-8700 Fax: 1-215-517-8747 www.solarlight.com 96 • happi

happi.com

HE PERSONAL CARE industry’s biggest event devoted entirely to sun care, The Sunscreen Symposium, will be held Sept. 1517, 2011, at Disney’s Yacht and Beach Club, Disney World, Orlando, FL. The event will include an educational course and golf outing that will take place on Sept. 15. In addition, there will be supplier exhibits open during the two days of technical sessions, Sept. 16 and 17. Finally, the symposium will feature a poster session and cocktail reception. More info: www.flscc.org/sunscreensymposium

March 2011

•Sun Care

La Roche-Posay’s Anthelios 50 Mineral.

Obagi has added sunscreen to its Nu Derm line.

The 32oz. bottle of Super Goop! provides plenty of protection for the whole family.

for 2011 are Sunscreen Serum, which contains Uniprotect PT-3, a complex of ingredients that enables skin to produce vitamin D even as it is being protected from UV damage. “Our consumer is the educated parent,” explained Thaggard. “When we launched the company in 2007 it wasn’t an ideal time due to the recession, but at the same time,

parents were becoming savvier about their ingredient choices for the family. There was a big wave of parents who are very concerned about everything that they put on their child.” Executives at Elemental Herbs insist that they too are concerned about what they put in their sunscreens and lip balms. The company, which markets 16 SKUs, was

founded by herbalist Caroline Duell, who created All Good Goop, a soothing salve based on five herbs to soothe cuts, scrapes and abrasions. The organic, petroleum-free salve contains calendula, comfrey, lavender, plantain and yarrow. Elemental Herbs’ sun care business is comprised of three sunscreens: Sport SPF 20, Kids SPF 20 and Sport Tinted SPF 22

Our protection & safety

Our “Feelosophy” is about enhancing Personal and Home Care applications to create a holistic product experience in four key dimensions: We research what consumers perceive and feel, improve the effect of formulations and develop technologies to simplify product usage. Take protection and safety. Skin, hair and fabrics need to be protected from external influences such as sun, cold, pollution, chemical treatments and mechanical forces. Our Sprayable Sun Care Concept offers not only high UV protection but also easy spreadability leading to an even distribution on skin. With our APG® sugar surfactants, we meet consumer demands for products that are safe for themselves and the environment. How about joining our well-being Feelosophy?

Sun Care

Hampton Sun’s Continuous Mist.

Sol Survivor from Fake Bake.

and two sunsticks that debuted this year. “We use as much zinc oxide as possible in our products,”explained Burr Purnell, coowner and director of marketing. As a result, the sticks contain 20% ZnO and sunscreens contain 25% ZnO (nonnanoparticle). “A lot of our customers don’t like the whitening properties of traditional zinc-

based products, so creating products with the right texture and feel was critical,” explained Purnell. But creating natural sun care products and balms isn’t cheap. A 1oz jar of All Good Goop retails for $8.50, the zinc sunsticks retail for $7.99, lip balms are $3.50 while the 1oz sunscreen retails for $8.99 and the 3oz costs $19.39. The sunscreens

is

•

This Coppertone Sport boasts SPF100+.

contain organic green tea leaves and organic rose hips infused in organic extra virgin olive oil, organic jojoba oil and organic shea butter. “Our products are more expensive than others, but we don’t shy away from that because we use more expensive ingredients.” explained Purnell.“Our customers are more discerning and will pay more for quality.”

Cognis – SF t of BA now par COGNIS GmbH, Phone +49 211 79400 [email protected], www.cognis.com

• Sun Care

Who is the Elemental Herbs’ customer? Women ages 27 to 60, who are athletic, which may explain the popularity of another product in the company’s lineup— Herbal Cool all-natural sore muscle spray. Elemental Herbs’ products are available in 600 West Coast stores from Seattle to San Diego, as well as in Hawaii and Colorado. On the East Coast, products are available in Massachusetts and Connecticut. Expansion plans this year include increasing distribution in Colorado and establishing business in Texas, according to Purnell, who notes that revenues have doubled every year since the company was formed. Of course, not everyone needs sun to get a tan. There are plenty of sunless tanners on the market, each promising the look of a natural tan without any of the damage associated with UV rays.

Fake Out Fake Bake executives insist that they have the largest range of self-tanners anywhere. “We are different than other self-tanners, because we have no dyes in our products,” explained Tamara Czartoryski, senior communications director at the company. “Our products work on our pigmentation and DNA.” The brand, now 13 years old, is available

100 • happi

in 300,000 salons and stores. In January, the line was rebranded in the U.S. to match offerings in other parts of the world, creating a uniform, more youthful look, according to Czartoryski. “We want people to see our package and remember it,” said Czartoryski. “It is youthful and sensual we want it to become a household name.” At the same time, all of the Fake Bake self-tanners contain vitamin D for those consumers who worry that a lack of UV on their skin may lead to a vitamin D deficiency. Last year, sales rose 40% on the strength of being a favorite among celebrities such as Sandra Bullock, Britney Spears and Kelly Ripa. Czartoryski expects another gain in sales this year thanks to the rebranding and the launch of several new products. For example, Bronzing Gel Unisex Self-Tan is a fast-drying, non-sticky gel emulsion that is said to glide on and is ideal for oily or sensitive skin. It contains concentrated blends of vitamins C & E to combat free radicals. Flawless self-tan liquid and professional mitt contains triple active tanning agents to create an intense, longer-lasting tan, according to the company. For those who aren’t ready to commit to a faux tan, there’s Golden Faux Flo in Shimmer Medium and Matte Medium. The

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washable formula is removed easily with soap and water, and yet is transfer-resistant. Finally, new Gelee Daily Wash is billed as the perfect cleanser to extend a tan. The formula contains vegetable glycerin and a mild sugar coconut-based cleansing agent.

What’s Ahead? While consumers, NGOs and FDA authorities may have a lot of questions surrounding sunscreens, marketers agree that sun care sales will continue to rise in the future, as consumers grow increasingly knowledgeable about the dangers of too much sun. “The key issue remains convenience and skin feel,” maintained Agin. “Consumers want to have a form that is easy to use, reapply and feels good going on their skin, regardless of whether it is a spray lotion or some other form.” As a result, explained Agin, manufacturers are looking beyond SPF and UVA to create formulas that make products attractive to consumers. With consumer interest in UV protection still heating up, it’s a good bet that marketers and their suppliers will be cooking up new sun care products that are easy to apply and offer broad-spectrum protection for years to come. •

March 2011

New Ingredients for Sun Care Here is a list of new ingredients introduced by industry suppliers during the past 12 months. To learn more about any of the materials listed here, contact the suppliers directly using the information provided. AkzoNobel, Global Personal Care Bridgewater, NJ Tel: 888-331-6212 Email: [email protected] Website: www.akzonobel.com/personalcare Dermacryl 79 INCI: Acrylates octylacrylamide copolymer Use levels: Sun protection (1-5%), SPF daily wear moisturizer (0.5-3%), tinted sunscreens (0.5-5%), creams and lotions (0.5-3%) Applications: Sun protection Comments: Dermacryl 79 polymer is a hydrophobic, high molecular weight carboxylated acrylic copolymer. Because the polymer is inherently moisture resistant, Dermacryl 79 polymer can be used in waterproof sunscreens as well as a variety of creams and lotions. The polymer’s film formation properties help maintain active ingredients on the site of application by imparting resistance to abrasion or rub-off. Dermacryl AQF INCI: Acrylates copolymer Use levels: Sun protection (2-5%), SPF daily wear moisturizer (1-3%), tinted sunscreens (1-5%), creams and lotions (1-5%). Suggested pH range of final formula: 5-7 Applications: Skin cream and lotion, sun protection Comments: Dermacryl AQF film forming polymer is an easy-to-use film former for water resistant sunscreen emulsions. It has been developed to provide excellent water resistance performance without the need to heat or neutralize the polymer. Dermacryl AQF film-forming polymer can be used to 102 • happi

easily formulate sunscreen spray emulsions as well as traditional creams and lotions.

Arch Personal Care Products South Plainfield, NJ Tel: 908-561-5200 Email: [email protected] Website: www.archpersonalcare.com PhytoTerra Maté INCI: Leaf extract and maltodextrin Use levels: 0.5-2.0% Applications: SPF boost for sunscreens, anti-aging creams, day creams and lotions, night treatment serums, antioxidant for all skin and hair formulations Comments: Powerful multifunctional antioxidant that offers free radical action similar to vitamin E and EGCG. Offers SPF boost when added to formulations already containing sunscreens. LuxVeil 5 INCI: Isododecane and PPG-3 myristyl ether neoheptanoate Use levels: 5-30% Applications: Sun care, face and body applications Comments: Patented, lightweight fluid offering silicone-free sensory solutions. Offers superior pigment wetting and dispersing properties and is an excellent solubilizer of sunscreen actives. Biodynes TRF Improved 25 INCI: Water (and) saccharomyces lysate extract Use levels: 0.5-3.0% Applications: Sun care, decorative cosmetics, anti-aging, skin cleansing and conditioning Comments: An active yeast extract that offers anti-inflammatory properties in happi.com

after-sun products. Calms, soothes and moisturizes skin while increasing cellular respiration and providing anti-aging benefits.

Arista Industries, Inc. Wilton, CT Tel: 203-761-1009 Email: [email protected] Website: www.aristaindustries.com Horsetail Butter INCI: Prunus amygdalus (almond) oil (and) Equisetum arvense extract Use levels: Up to 100% Applications: Creams, lotions, body and lip balms and soaps Comments: An excellent moisturizer which aids the skin in healing after exposure to harsh elements such as over exposure to the sun. Promotes the rebuilding and regeneration of skin cells and contains the building blocks necessary to enhance the skin’s elasticity.

BASF Corporation Florham Park, NJ Tel: 800-880-5768 Email: [email protected] Website: www.personalcare.basf.com Tinosorb M INCI: Methylene bis-benzotriazolyn tetramethylbutylphenol and aqua and decyl glucoside and propylene glycol and xanthan gum Applications: Sun and skin care products Product Name: Tinosorb S INCI: Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine Applications: Sun and skin care products March 2011

New Sun Care Ingredients

Product Name: Uvinul T 150 INCI: Ethylhexyl triazone Applications: Sun and skin care products Comments: BASF’s new generation of UV protection.

Caribbean Natural Products Fairfield, NJ Tel: 973-882-5115 Email: [email protected] Website: www.caribnaturalproducts.com Caribsun UV INCI: Ethyl ferulate Use levels: 0.5-2.0% Applications: SPF booster Comments: Ethyl ferulate, as the ester type of ferulic acid, has powerful antioxidant, free radical scavenging and UV adsorption properties. It can be incorporated into various cosmetic formulations including aqueous, ethanolic and emulsion-based creams, sun creams or moisturizers. CaribPure Buriti INCI: Mauritia flexuosa fruit oil Use levels: 5-10% Applications: Sunless tanning Comments: The Buriti oil is a reddish yellowish oil, which is great for providing color in self-tanning products. CaribPure Urucum INCI: Bixa orellana seed oil Use levels: 5.0-10.0% Applications: Natural coloring agent Comments: This oil is excellent for use in sunscreens because it contains more than 80% natural carotenoids. Its reddish color makes it an effective natural colorant. It helps to protect against UVA, UVB rays. It helps to tan and adds color to skin and helps to maintain color.

Centerchem, Inc. Norwalk, CT Tel: 203-822-9800 Website: www.centerchem.com Email: [email protected] Thermostressine INCI: Glycerin, water, acetyl tetrapeptide22 Use levels: 2-5% Applications: Formulations to fight stress, sun damage March 2011

Comments: Thermostressine is a tetrapeptide that increases HSP70 (Heat Shock Protein) levels in skin, providing a protective shield that gives cells a stress tolerance against everyday challenges and stressful stimuli. It helps skin to be more relaxed with a more vital appearance. Aloe Vera Gel Eco INCI: Aloe barbadensis leaf juice Use levels: 0.5-5.0% Applications: Anti-inflammatory skin care formulations, after-sun formulations Comments: Ecocert-certified Aloe Vera Gel Eco is a water-soluble fluid produced from organic aloe vera leaves. It is used in a number of cosmetic products because of its moisturizing and emollient properties. It is recommended to formulate in products with skin repairing, skin conditioning, antiinflammatory and skin protective activities.

Chemsil Silicones Inc Chatsworth, CA Telephone: 877-700-0302 Email: [email protected] Website: www.chemsil.com Gelaid CPE-CF INCI: Dimethicone (and) dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) hydroxyethyl acrylate (and) sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer Use levels: 5-30% Applications: Sunscreens, after-sun lotions and daily wear creams with UV protection Comments: Designer silicone gel compound with no cyclomethicones. Formulates elegant emulsions via simple addition of water and your UV protection. Gelaid CPE INCI: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) hydroxyethyl acrylate (and) sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer (and) cyclohexasiloxane Use levels: 5-30% Applications: Sunscreens, after-sun lotions and daily wear creams with UV protection Comments: Cold process system, does not require heat in formulation. Silicone base provides luxurious, silky feel. Easily incorhappi.com

•

porate UV protection additives. K-50 INCI: Acrylate/dimethicone copolymer (and) isododecane Use levels: 1-5% Applications: Sunscreens and self-tanning products Comments: Provides long-lasting soft flexible film with excellent water and oil repellency. Great for water-resistant sunscreens.

Chemyunion São Paulo, Brazil Tel: 55-11-2173-0103 Email: [email protected] Website: www.chemyunion.com EcoPhysalis INCI: Water (and) glycerin (and) physalis angulata extract Use levels: 1-5% Applications: Sunscreens and after-sun products; anti-photoaging skin care formulations; skin luminosity increase products. Comments: Ecocert-validated product glycerin extract of Camapu standardized in total phytosterols. Calming, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and anti-irritant effects. In vitro efficacy tests available. EcoBidens INCI: Water (and) glycerin (and) bidens pilosa extract Use levels: 1-5% Applications: After-sun products, antiphotoaging skin care formulations. Comments: Ecocert-validated product from organic sustainable harvest. Antioxidant. Inhibition of the main micro inflammatory mediators involved in skin aging. In vitro efficacy tests available. Melscreen Coffee Org INCI: Coffea arabica (coffee) seed oil Use levels: 1-5% Applications: After-sun formulations, anti-aging products, moisturizers, firming and lipolytic formulations Comments: Ecocert and USDA Organiccertified product. Photo-protects the skin against UV radiation (erythema reduction efficacy test available); increases Aquaporins-3 gene expression; increases ECM and TGF synthesis (tests available).

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• New Sun Care Ingredients

Cognis Corporation Ambler, PA Tel: 800-531-0815 Fax: 215-628-1450 Website: www.cognis.com General Email: [email protected] Cosmedia DC INCI: Hydrogenated dimer dilinoleyl/dimethylcarbonate copolymer Use levels: 0.5-4% Applications: Sun, face and body Comments: Cosmedia DC is an innovative water resistant agent that helps the formulator to achieve water resistance while actually improving the sensory performance. The“Switch Emulsion”technology provides fast water resistance and an additional moisture locking benefit. Cosmedia DC is compatible with ethanol and organic and inorganic filters. It is easy to use and makes it simple to achieve stable formulations. Cetiol C5 INCI: Coco-caprylate Use levels: 1-10% Applications: Sun, face and body Comments: Cetiol C5, a naturally based light emollient, is the alternative to cyclomethicone for skin care applications. It has good skin compatibility, is easy to handle and biodegradable. This NPA-approved emollient spreads very quickly and has a pleasant, dry skin feel. Dehyquart C4046 INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (and) ceteareth-20 Use levels: 1-8% Applications: Sun, face and body Comments: Dehyquart C4046 is a cationic self-emulsifying base for elegant skin and sun care formulations. It is designed to deliver rich, enveloping cationic textures that are easy to spread, long lasting and leave skin feeling soft and smooth. Even formulations with a high level of UV filters can feel light on the skin. Dehyquart C4046 is non-irritating to skin and eyes.

Croda Inc. Edison, NJ Tel: 732-417-0800 104 • happi

Fax: 732-417-0804 Website: www.croda.com/na/pc Email: [email protected] Solaveil XT-100 INCI: Titanium dioxide (and) C12-15 alkyl benzoate (and) polyhydroxystearic acid (and) stearic acid (and) alumina Use levels: 1-30% Applications: Sun care and skin care products, color cosmetics Comments: Oil based titanium dioxide dispersion offering unprecedented broadspectrum protection and a light, elegant skin feel. Allows the formulation of high SPF, broad-spectrum sun protection products using a single active ingredient. Solaveil XT-300 INCI: Titanium dioxide (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) polyhydroxystearic acid (and) stearic acid (and) alumina Use levels: 2-30% Applications: Titanium dioxide dispersion in a naturally-derived carrier oil, ideal for natural sun care applications. Allows the formulation of high SPF, broad spectrum sun protection products using a single active ingredient.

The HallStar Company Chicago, IL Tel: 877-427-4255, 312-385-4494 Email: [email protected] Website: www.hallstar.com HallBrite PSF INCI: Undecylcrylene dimethicone Use levels: 2–8% Applications: Sunscreens, facial skin care and color cosmetics with broad-spectrum sun protection Comments: Organo-modified silicone and triplet-state-quencher enhances avobenzone photostability, improves sunscreen feel, reduces whitening, detackifies, enhances substantivity and water resistance, and may help disperse metal oxides. HallGreen PS INCI: Glycine soja (soybean) sterols Use levels: 0.5–3% Applications: After-sun skin repair creams, lotions and serums. Comments: HallGreen PS helps restore happi.com

damaged skin: improving membrane fluidity and resilience, protecting against external irritants, improving water balance, reducing inflammation and promoting healing.

Honeywell Morristown, NJ Tel: 973-455-4071 Email: [email protected] Website: www.Asensa.com Asensa DS 912 INCI: Zeolite Use levels: 2% Applications: Sunless tanners, malodor adsorbent Comments: Zeolites adsorb volatiles in the porous crystalline structure. Zeolites are proven odor adsorbers in sunless tanners where DHA can cause an unpleasant smell after application to the skin. Asensa RC 880 INCI: Bis-C16-20 isoalkoxy TMHDI/PEG90 copolymer Use levels: 1-3% Applications: Rheology control for high inorganic pigment formulations Comments: This polyether polyurethane acts as an associative thickener and ensures optimum suspension of inorganic UV actives in the water phase of emulsions with great aesthetics. Email us for formulations. Asensa CL 300 INCI: Ethylene/VA copolymer Use levels: 6% Description: Lipid structuring agent and film former Comments: This polymer crystallizes in the lipid phase of an emulsion and ensures optimum dispersion of organic UV actives. SPF is enhanced and oily feeling reduced.

Induchem AG Volketswil, Switzerland Tel: +41 44 908 43 33 Email: [email protected] Website: www.induchem.com Unisooth ST-32 INCI: Pentylene glycol, tamarindus indica seed extract, stevioside Use levels: 1-3% Applications: sun care, sensitive skin, protective care March 2011

New Sun Care Ingredients

Comments: A natural bioactive complex that reinforces skin’s immune defense system weakened by UV exposure. It restores skin’s biological balance and reduces skin sensitivity. Unisooth EG-28 INCI: Aqua, propyl gallate, gallyl glucoside, epigallocatechin gallatyl glucoside Use levels: 1-3% Applications: After sun, soothing, aftershave/after depilation treatments, sensitive skin Comments: A water-soluble bioactive complex to immediately soothe UV-induced skin irritation and reduce discomfort. Unisooth PN-47 INCI: Panthenyl triacetate, naringenin Use levels: 0.5-2% Applications: After-sun, sensitive skin, irritated skin, aftershave/after depilation treatments Comments: An oil-soluble bioactive complex that modulates skin reactivity, interrupts the

March 2011

UV-induced irritation/inflammation cascade and thus protects skin from further damage.

International Specialty Products (ISP) Wayne, NJ Tel: 800-505-8984 Email: [email protected] Website: www.ispcorp.com Product Name: Caspaline 14 INCI: Water (and) propanediol (and) hexapeptide (proposed) Use levels: 0.5-1% Applications: Cosmetic approach for sun formulations Comments: Caspaline 14 is a synthetic peptide designed to target and boost the expression of caspase-14. Ex-vivo testing showed that it rapidly boosted the expression of this protease. It has also been shown that fewer cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (UVB-induced DNA damage) are produced in skin cells when Caspaline 14

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is used prior to exposure. UltraThix P-100 INCI: Acrylic acid/VP crosspolymer Use levels: 1% Applications: Rheology modifier compatible with inorganic UV filters Comments: In-vitro water resistance studies on sunscreen formulations demonstrate increased substantivity of the UV absorbing actives delivered from the formulation containing UltraThix P-100 when compared to the same formulation without the material. Tolerates metal oxides. Reduces the greasy feel of high oil formulations. Dry film on skin is smooth. Enhances emulsion stability and reduces tack. Advantage Plus INCI: VA/Butyl maleate/isobomyl acrylate copolymer Use levels: 1-2% Applications: UV-boosting performance for anhydrous spray formulations Comments: Study results show Advantage

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• New Sun Care Ingredients

Plus boosts initial SPF and improves waterresistant benefits for higher SPF retention. Because of its self-adopting character, which allows the polymer to reorient itself, AdvantagePlus provides water resistance.

Interpolymer Corp. Canton, MA Tel: 781-828-7120 Email: [email protected] Website: www.interpolymer.com Syntran PC 5227 INCI: Polyacrylate 15 (and) polyacrylate 17 Use levels: 4-7% Applications: SPF booster in any waterbased formulation with organic UV filters Comments: The Syntran PC 5227 is an acrylate grafted olefin polymer designed specifically to increase the efficacy of UV absorbers and so it permits formulators of sun protection products to reduce the content of the active SPF ingredients. Syntran PC 5500 INCI: Polyquaternium 91 (and) polyacrylate 15 Use levels: 3-5% Applications: After-sun product Comments: The Syntran PC 5500 helps to condition skin for a soft, supple feel and to retain moisture in the dried skin after sun exposure.

Koster Keunen (distributed by Brenntag Specialties Inc.) Watertown, CT Tel: 860-945-3333 and 800-732-0562 Email: [email protected] Website: www.kosterkeunen.com, www. brenntagspecialties.com Siliconyl Beeswax INCI: BIS-PEG 12-dimethicone beeswax Use levels: 1-3% Applications: Sun care, hair care, creams, lotions, anhydrous gels, lipsticks, color cosmetics Comments: Convenient way to incorporate silicones into formulations. This silicone ester of beeswax eliminates blooming in silicone oils to increase stability, reduce tackiness and impart a silky feel to the skin. Sunscreen enhancing properties through film forming, film thickening; improves sunscreen solubility in oil phase and im106 • happi

proves sunscreen active dispersibility. Siliconyl Polyethylene PC-38 INCI: Polyethylene, stearoxy dimethicone, hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene Use levels: 1-3% Applications: Sun care, hair care, color cosmetics, lipsticks, eyeliners, lip balms, mascaras, creams, lotions Comments: Blend designed to reduce hardness of finished products without affecting melt point or gelling properties. Proven sunscreen enhancer, pigment dispersant aid and when a typical waxy occlusive barrier is not desired.

RITA Crystal Lake, IL Tel: 815-337-2500 Email: [email protected] Website: www.ritacorp.com Rovisome DHA INCI: Water (and) dihydroxyacetone (and) alcohol (and) lecithin (and) potassium phosphate Use levels: 5-10% Applications: Self-tanning products Comments: forms a brown color complex with the proteins in the upper skin layers. The result is a more even, longer lasting tan - only one application gives visible results with a long lasting 3D tan. Quiditat NWP_PE INCI: Water (and) hypnea musciformis extract (and) gellidiela acerosa extract (and) sucumis sativus (cucumber) seed extract Use levels: 0.5-6% Applications: Sun creams, after sun gels, sunscreens Comments: Quiditat NWP_PE possesses excellent antiinflammatoryactivity in cases of inflammation caused by UV radiation. Quidgel BRM_PE INCI: Water (and) botryocladia occidentalis extract (and) hypnea musciformis extract (and) sargassum vulgare extract Use levels: 1-10% Applications: Day creams, sunscreens, after-sun gels and lotions, anti-age products, shaving and after-shave products, as a cell protective and a skin repair ingredient Comments: A potent natural cosmetic active that enhances the self-repairing mechanisms of the skin. It is effective in treating happi.com

UV-damaged or stressed skin.

Sensient Cosmetic Technologies Saint Ouen L’Aumône, France Tel: + 33 1 34 48 57 00 Email: [email protected] Website: www.sensient-cosmetics.com Matlake TMO INCI: Titanium dioxide and aluminum hydroxide Use levels: 0.1-50% Applications: Sun care, skin care and makeup Comments: Transparent, nanoparticle-free (No particles below 100nm according to method 10-039 using a laser diffraction particle size analyzer Horiba LA950-V2, liquid process) and high performing advanced mineral UV protector based on a unique Sensient technology, allowing excellent SPF & UVAPF results. Globally compliant and Ecocert approved. Matlake TMO HLC INCI: Titanium dioxide and aluminum hydroxide and hydrogenated lecithin Use levels: 0.1-50% Applications: Sun care, skin care and makeup Comments: Surface treated version of Matlake TMO (No particles below 100nm according to method 10-039 using a laser diffraction particle size analyzer Horiba LA950-V2, liquid process) combining innovative technologies, boosting SPF & UVAPF results, easy dispersible in oils, long lasting effect. Globally compliant and Ecocert approved.

Vivimed Labs Monmouth Junction, NJ Tel: 732-398-0008 Email: [email protected] Website: www.vivimedlabs.com Product Name: Acacia catechu INCI: Acacia catechu wood powder Use levels: Up to 0.5% Applications: Pre-sun, post-sun creams, balms, lotions and sprays Comments: Grown, extracted and purified in India, Acacia Catechu offers high levels of catechins and epicatechins (via HPLC) for pre- and post-sun care products. • March 2011

New Products

BURT’S BEES TARGETS LIPCOLOR CATEGORY instructions for at-home application. More info: www.sallyhansen.com

Salon Effects Peel Nail Polish Strips

OPI’s Texas Range Features New Finish

•From the company that brought nail Burt’s Bees is adding just a hint of color to its wellknown beeswax-based lip balms.

• Burt’s Bees Tinted Lip Balms ($6.99) take the passion for the brand’s famous beeswax-based lip balms to the next level with a hint of sheer color in six modern, wearable shades and a sweet natural flavor, according to the company. These 100% natural balms care for the kisser with flower waxes such as ylang-ylang and jasmine, moisture-rich shea butter and vitamin E. The shade spectrum is designed to give every woman a perfect neutral, pink and red color from each of the shade families, added the company. The balms are packaged in eco-friendly cardboard tubes, too— further tapping into the green trend. More info: www.burtsbees.com

Sally Hansen Rolls Out Nail Polish Strips

textures like matte, suede and Black Shatter to women around the world, OPI announces a new special finish— semi-transparent sorbet shades. Featured first in the Texas Collection by OPI ($8.50 each) for Spring/Summer 2011, these lacquers give fingers and toes a lightly glossed appearance, according to the company. From sea blue and berry pink to tangerine and bright peach, the Texas Collection features classic American colors. More info: www.opi.com

Earthly Elements Debuts Hair Care, Body Care Line

• Earthly Elements is a new collection

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Jessica Teams Up With William Tempest

• International nail care marketer Jessica unveiled its latest nail color collaboration with British fashion designer William Tempest. The six-color collection, Runway Style ($7.50 each), complements Tempests’ Spring 2011 runway designs. According to the company, the range— inspired by sirens, the mythical half-beauty half-sea creatures whose enchanting voices seduce passing sailors to shipwreck—features a color palette of fresh corals, nudes and grays in frothy chiffons, georgettes and velvet that mimic the waves of the sea. More info: www.Jessicacosmetics.com

Tarte Presents Amazonian Clay Blush

•Infused

with natural clay harvested from the banks of the Amazon River and naturally baked by the sun, Tarte’s new Amazonian Clay Blush ($25) is said to benefit all skin types for a fade-free flawless finish for 12 hours. Inspired by Tarte’s best-

($9.99-$12.99) said to indulge the mind and spirit with shampoo, conditioner, body wash and body lotion in four tropical scents: Hawaiian Ginger, Island Jasmine, Brazilian Citrus and Moroccan Vanilla. Bottles are adorned with unique keepsake Tarte creates works of art out of Amazonian clay with its new blush.

• For years, nail polish shoppers have looked to Sally Hansen for the best in nail color. Now, the color authority delivers trend-setting nails that think outside of the bottle. New Sally Hansen Nail Polish Strips offer no dry-time nail looks for style that lasts up to 10 days, according to the company. Each Salon Effect Real Nail Polish Strips kit ($9.99 each) includes 16 nail polish strips, a cuticle stick, mini file/buffer and

charms featuring inspirational messages like “hope” and “peace”. More info: www.earthlyelements.com

Indulge your spirit with new Earthly Elements.

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selling shades of cheek stains and lip tints, the colors range from soft to vivid to suit a wide variety of skintones. For oily skin types, Amazonian clay minimizes oil in and around pores to balance skin and keep product in place. More info: http://tartecosmetics.com March 2011

New Products

Sheer Shimmering Highlighter from Sonia Kashuk Now at Target • Sonia Kashuk’s latest

Super Sheer Shimmering Highlighter

collection at Target features the new Super Sheer Shimmering Highlighter ($9.99), a liquid luminizer in pale gold. According to the company, this highlighter adds a natural-looking radiance and leaves skin with a beautiful dewy finish. More info: www.soniakashuk.com

Tone Uncorks A New Body Wash

• Red wine is celebrated for its antioxidant rich properties— now Tone is getting on board with new Tone Vino Moisture Body Wash with Crushed Grape and Shea Butter ($3.99). Originating from the French spa trend of vino-therapy, the body wash is said to offer the ultimate luxury in skin moisturization at an affordable price. It contains notes of Leave the corkscrew crushed grapes, shea in the kitchen with butter and vitamin E in Tone Vino Moisture. a cream-based formula. More info: www.toneskincare.com

John Frieda Adds At-Home Straightening Product

• John Frieda Hair Care

has launched what it is calling the “first at-home answer” to semi-permanent straightening: Frizz-Ease 3Day Straight semi-permanent styling spray. The new semi-permanent straightening solution ($9.99), gives women with coarse, Now, semi-permanent straightening at home.

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curly hair at-home access to the benefits of salon straightening treatments by harnessing the power of keratin protein. More info: www.johnfrieda.com

Wasp & Hornet Killer From Liquid Fence

New Liquid Fence Wasp & Hornet Killer an all-natural and non-toxic aerosol spray that destroys the entire nest quickly and comes with a“100% kill”guarantee, yet is safe to use around kids and pets. Made by Brodheadsville, PA-based Liquid Fence Company, the botanically scented spray reaches in excess of 15 feet. Unlike water-based solutions that run the risk of potential electrocution when sprayed near elecKill the wasps, trical wires, Liquid Fence but keep the Wasp & Hornet Killer is dogs safe. oil-based and electrically non-conducting up to 27,500 volts, according to the company. More info: www.liquidfence.com

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LifeWave’s Y-Age Geon Patch for Skin

LifeWave, a San Diego, CA-based company that offers homeopathic and acupressure products, has rolled out Y-Age Aeon patch new Y-Age Aeon patch. Designed to help promote an anti-stress response in the body, the patch reportedly affects acupuncture points without needles, leading to more energy, less inflammation and a general feeling of wellness, while longer term use has been shown to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, according to the company. More info: www.lifewave.com

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P&G Rolls Out Gain With FreshLock Technology

• Gain with FreshLock features a new scent technology “upgrade” that provides longer-lasting freshness to laundry. It conhappi.com

Gain with FreshLock technology.

tains microscopic scent beads that rest throughout fabrics after they have been washed and dried. The beads break with friction and release the fresh smelling scent of Gain from the fibers, according to P&G. More info: www.ilovegain.com

Rogaine Goes Stealthy

McNeil-PPC has made it easier for men to keep their Rogaine use on the“Q.T.” The Skillman, NJ-based company is rolling out Men’s Rogaine Unscented Topical Foam ($29.99), billed as the same formulation sans the telltale fragrance. Consumer studies revealed that 57% of current Rogaine users wished the product was unscented and 51% used the product less frequently due to the fragrance. By removing the fragrance, McNeil-PPC plans to encourage better consumer compliance. New Rogaine More info: www. Unscented rogainedirect.com Topical Foam.

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TouchBack Markers Tackle Gray Hair

• TouchBack is a mistake-proof marker that delivers true, temporary hair color instantly, according to its maker. Unlike mascara, crayons, gels, and powders, TouchBack ($29.95) won’t flake or rub off with brushing; bonds to the hair and stays true until shampooed out. TouchBack is available in eight shades from rich black to golden blonde. More info: www.TouchBackGray.com • happi • 109

Packaging News

LUXE PACK NY: BIGGER THAN EVER • The next edition of Luxe Pack New York, the luxury packaging trade exhibition in its ninth year, will be the largest event to date, with an additional 10 exhibitors scheduled to participate. The show, which sold out five months before its opening, will be held May 18-19 at The Altman Building and Metropolitan Pavilion. To assist visitors in locating the suppliers that specialize in their market, Luxe Pack is launching three specific tracks—Beauty, Wine & Sprits and Fine Foods. Exhibitors in each track will be identified on the floor map at the show. “Luxe Pack New York is the event that helps brands and designers develop their creative packaging, with all the resources needed under one roof. The launch of the new specialized tracks will allow visitors to quickly identify the suppliers they need to see, while still enjoying the creativity and inspiration provided by those exhibitors in other tracks,” said Nathalie Grosdidier, executive director, Luxe Pack New York. Compelling seminars and special displays will again be a primary attraction at the two-day event. More info: www.luxepacknewyork.com

XD 11 Twist New at Rexam • The Rexam XD 11 Twist fragrance pump, introduced at PCD 2011, is the first solution on the market to provide customers with new levels of product differentiation, in terms of ergonomics, eco-appeal and brand protection, according to the company. Specifically, it is the first pump on the market utilizing The Crimpless System (TCS) that can easily be separated—with just a simple twist—from the bottle once the fragrance is used, which facilitates recycling. The patented design of the XD 11 Twist makes it impossible to reassemble, thus limiting counterfeiting and protecting brand equity. Moreover, the XD 11 Twist offers the same advantages as a TCS pump: an easy fitment on the assembly lines and less breakage of glass necks, compared to screw pumps. A crimpless system makes More info: www.rexam.com Rexam’s new bottle unique.

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Borba Taps Fusion Packaging for Skin Care

Fusion Packaging was chosen to design and supply a line of new packaging for Borba’s InsideOut Beauty Solutions skin care available at Walgreens. The new product line includes an Eye Crème Concentrate, Wrinkle Soothing Serum and Deep Repair Night Crème, all packaged in Fusion’s Axis collection of airless bottles offered in 15-, 30- and 50ml, respectively. Borba used Fusion’s Axis collection to package Borba also collab- its new line of skin care available at Walgreens. orated with Fusion Packaging to offer three mini polypropylene bottles in 5-, 7.4- and 15ml for a total of six starter kit SKUs. More info: www.fusionpkg.com

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Cosmoprof North America 2011 Partners with FIT for Trend Scouts

• Cosmoprof North America has partnered with the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), the only college in the U.S. to offer both a bachelor’s and master’s degree dedicated to marketing cosmetics and fragrances. In its inaugural year, participants will have the opportunity to attend the show as the first ever Cosmoprof Trend Scouts. While being given unrestricted access to the show floor, the Trend Scouts will tour the show and speak with exhibitors to discover new product launches and show specials. They will then report their findings via posts on Twitter and Facebook. Cosmoprof North America 2011 will take place July 31-Aug. 2 at the Mandalay Convention Center in Las Vegas. More info: www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com SeaCliff Introduces Taesung Brush/Jar • SeaCliff Beauty Packaging & Laboratories debuted the new brush/jar mousse container by Taesung. Including both a product container and detachable brush, this component can be used for applying foundation mousse or mousse blush. The detachable brush, made from fine goat hair, sits on top of the container making it easy to use on the go, according to the company.

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March 2011

Packaging News

With a modern, sleek shape, the component is offered in 10- and 30g jars made of high-end, durable acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS), instead of polypropylene plastic (PP). More info: www.seacliffbeauty.com

Qosmedix Adds Dial-Up Applicator with Spatula Tip

• Qosmedix has added a brand new dialup applicator for dosing out serums, or thin lotion based formulations, further expanding its packaging line. The clear 2ml tube comes complete with an innovative silicone spatula tip and clear cap, according to the company. With just a twist-click your formula advances to the tip for controlled flow, while the spatula head provides a smooth application. More info: www.qosmedix.com This new concept from Quosmedix is ideal for serums or other thin lotion-based formulations.

Eco Vision Receives U.S. Patent for Eco Tube

• The founders of Eco Vision, a packaging company, have been assigned a patent for the home compostable Eco Tube package. Issued as U.S. utility patent No. 7819251 by the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office, it is formally named “paper tube packaging with open end and coated cap.” According to the company, the Eco Tube provides an ideal, ecofriendly packaging solution for lip balms and many other products. Eco Vision designed and manufactures the package, made 100% from certified post-consumer waste paper, biodegradable adhesives and coatings, and can be printed with soy inks. The Eco Tube, used for Organic Essence’s lip balms, won a Green Packy Award, sponsored by Whole Foods Green Mission Project, at the Natural Foods Expo in the Spring of 2010. Ellery West, chief executive officer of Eco Vision and developer of the Eco Tube, said,“We are very excited to be awarded a patent for the Eco Tube. This is the first of our much larger portfolio of patented home compostable packaging solutions currently in process. In the U.S. and Canada, we manufacture our patented, novel packaging for sale to significant consumer product manufacturers and marketers.” More info: www.eco-vision.com Mr. Bubble Gets a Makeover • Introduced by Gold Seal Co. in 1961, Mr. Bubble is celebrating 50 years of making bath time fun with new packaging. Originally developed as a powdered bubble bath, then March 2011

launched in a liquid formula in 1972, Mr. Bubble was recently improved to create even more bubbles with an even gentler clean, according to the company. To celebrate this milestone, the Mr. Bubble character has been updated to be more animated and appealing to today’s kids, while still maintaining the nostalgia that parents know and love. A dramatic change from the original pink bubble with white outlines, the new Mr. Bubble was created with brighter colors and Mr. Bubble is celebrating 50 deeper dimensions. years of fun with a new image. In addition to the new, updated Mr. Bubble character, the bubble bath products will feature a birthday label throughout 2011 to commemorate its 50-year history. Both Original Bubble Bubble Bath and Extra Gentle Bubble Bath, each available in 16- and 36oz bottles, will showcase a birthday Mr. Bubble, with bubbles, balloons, streamers and a birthday banner. More info: www.thevillagecompany.com

Maesa Works with Mon Mode • With the help of Maesa, Mon Mode—an innovative marketer of accessories—debuted a luxurious twist on the traditional purse hanger. According to the company, it is the first fashion purse hanger engineered to hold up to 25lbs and open up like a makeup compact to reveal a mirror. Inspiration for Mon Mode’s 16 unique designs comes from intricate antique art deco makeup compacts from the 1920s and 1930s. The collection ranges from unique jeweled and croco tops to exotic skins. Maesa partnered with Mon Mode on the custom design and completely manufactured the collection, which includes resin jeweled tops and metal compacts and hook, etched with the Mon Mode logo. The manufacturing process is a combination of metal fabricating, molded plastic, cut and sew cloth, and wrapped paper set up box. Each individual carrying pouch is cut, sewn, and silk screened one color, then finished with a cloth drawstring. The custom wrapped set up box with paper insert platform presents each purse hanger as perfectly giftable, according to the company. •

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Meetings

IN-COSMETICS 2011 SET FOR MILAN, MARCH 29-31 March 16-17: Cleaning Products Europe 2011, Valencia, Spain. More info: www.cleaningproductseurope.com

March 18: WFFC Annual Golf Outing, Farmstead Golf and Country Club, Lafayette, NJ.

Major Meetings at a Glance March 29-31: In-Cosmetics, Milan, Halls 1-3, Fiera Milano, Milan, Italy. More info: www.in-cosmetics.com

May 3-6: Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) Midyear Meeting, Marriott Downtown Hotel, Chicago, IL.

More info: www.wffc.org

March 23: The Fragrance Foundation’s Annual Trends Forum, Time/Life Building, New York, NY. More info: www.fragrance.org

March 24: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Spring Cocktail Party, Bowlmor Carnival, New York, NY.

More info: www.cspa.org

May 10-11: New York Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Suppliers’ Day, The New Jersey Convention and Exposition Center, Edison, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org

May 12-14: Sustainable Cosmetics Summit, New York, NY. More info: www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com

June 2-3: Society of Cosmetic Chemists 2011 Annual Scientific Seminar, Bellagio Resort, Las Vegas, NV.

More info: www.cibsonline.com

March 24-27: Private Label Manufacturers Association (PLMA) Annual Meeting & Conference, Hyatt at Gainey Ranch, Scottsdale, AZ. More info: www.plma.com

March 28-30: The SymphonyIRI Group Summit 2011, Fontainebleau Miami Beach Resort and Spa, Miami, FL.

More info: www.scconline.org

June 6-8: CESIO 8th World Surfactant Congress, Vienna, Austria. More info: www.cesio2011.com

June 28-30: HBA Global Expo, Jacob Javits Center, New York, NY. More info: www.hbaexpo.com

Oct. 25-26: California Suppliers’ Day, Long Beach, CA. More info: www.caliscc.org

Dec. 4-8: Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) 98th Annual Meeting, Marriott Harbor Beach Resort, Fort Lauderdale, FL.

More info: www.SymphonyIRI.com

March 29-30: Luxe Pack Shanghai, Shanghai International Convention Center, Shanghai, China. More info: www.luxepackshanghai.com

March 29-31: In-Cosmetics 2011, Halls 13, Fiera Milano, Milan, Italy.

More info: www.cspa.org

Dec. 8-9: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Annual Meeting, New York Hilton, New York, NY. More info: www.scconline.org

2012 Jan. 30-Feb. 4: American Cleaning Institute (ACI), Annual Meeting and Industry Convention, Grande Lakes Marriott, Orlando, FL.

More info: www.in-cosmetics.com

March 31: Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) West Coast Women in Beauty Series, Fairmont Miramar Santa Monica, Santa Monica, CA. More info: www.cew.org

April 1-3: The 13th International Symposium of Aromatherapy, Grasse, France. More info: www.ville-grasse.fr/ aromatherapie/en/index.html

April 2-4: Day Spa Association ProKnowledge Workshops, Nashville, TN More info: www.proknowledgeworkshops.com

April 4-7: Sunscreen Symposium International, Sao Paulo, Brazil. 112 • happi

More info: www.cleaninginstitute.org

More info: www.abc-cosmetologica.org.br

April 8: Fragrance Foundation FiFi Finalists Breakfast, The Mandarin Oriental Hotel, New York City, NY. More info: www.fragrance.org

April 13: Green Products Expo, New York Grand Hyatt Hotel, New York, NY. More info: www.greenproductsexpo.com

April 13: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Luncheon, The Manhattan Club, New York, NY. More info: www.cibsonline.com happi.com

April 21: The Fragrance Foundation Insider’s Breakfast, One Park Avenue, 19th Floor, New York, NY. More info: www.fragrance.org

April 26: Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) Women in Beauty Series, The Harmonie Club, New York, NY. More info: www.cew.org

April 28: Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors (ICMAD) FDA Workshop, New York, NY. More info: www.icmad.org

• March 2011

progressive perfumery

www.cplaromas.com

SCC News

2011 SCIENTIFIC SEMINAR IS JUNE 2-3 IN LAS VEGAS The Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) will hold its Annual Scientific Seminar on June 2-3 at the Bellagio Resort in Las Vegas. This event—the second seminar to be hosted by the chapters in a specific region—is being hosted by Area III, which includes the California, Intermountain West and Southwest Chapters. The Seminar’s Technical Program, which was arranged by the committee on scientific affairs, chaired by Karl Lintner, Ph.D., Kal’idees Beauty Ideas, will begin on Thursday morning with Session A–Skin. Moderated by Howard Epstein, Ph.D., EMD Chemicals, the session will open with the Henry Maso Keynote Award Lecture from Professor Reinhold Dauskardt, Stanford University. Professor Dauskardt will present “Biomechanics of the Barrier

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Function of Human Skin: Predicting Skin Damage and the Effects of Cosmetic Treatments.” Other speakers and topics: Paolo Marchesi, Soliance US Corporation, “Arabinoxylo-oligosaccharides: A Lightening Active Ingredient with a New Mechanism of Action that Inhibits Melanogenesis Targeting Tyrosinase and TRP-1” and David Boudier, Silab, “Imaging Quantification and Cosmetic Applications.” Session B–Hair on Thursday afternoon will be moderated by Joseph Dallal, International Specialty Products. This session will include presentations from Trefor Evans, Ph.D., TRI-Princeton, “Manipulating the Bulk Properties of Hair;” Michael Philbin, Ph.D., AkzoNobel, “Maltodextrin Based Styling Polymers;” Manual GamezGarcia, Ph.D., BASF Care Chemicals,“Hair Setting with Hot Irons and Heat Activa-

tion,” and Carole Lepilleur, Lubrizol Advanced Materials, “Novel Cationic Cassia Polymers as Effective Conditioning Deposition Aids.” On Friday morning, Martha Tate, Ph.D, Kimberly-Clark Corporation, will moderate Session C–Genomics. Speakers and topics include James V. Gruber, Ph.D., Arch Personal Care Products, “Using Human Genomic Microarrays in Personal Care.” Other speakers and topics include Isabelle Imbert, Ph.D., ISP Vincience, “The Role of Clock and SIRT-1 in Chromatin Remodeling: A New Code of Entry for DNA Repair in Human Skin” and John Ryals, Metabolon, Inc., “Global Metabolomics and Its Application in Product Development for Consumer Care.” Robert Bianchini, Ph.D., Merck Consumer Care, will moderate the final ses-

SCC National & Chapter Events March 15: Fifth Biennial Holistic Cosmetic Symposium & Supplier Showcase, Brooklyn Center, MN. More info: www.tccscc.org March 24: Florida Chapter Meeting, “The Global Oil Industry; How It Affects You,” Fort Lauderdale, FL area. More info: www.flscc.org March 24: SCC Course—“Fragrance as a Science,” Sheraton Newark Airport, Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org April 5: New York Chapter Meeting, Pleasantdale Château, West Orange, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org April 7: Ontario Chapter Meeting, The Venetian, Vaughan, ON. More info: www.ontarioscc.org April 13-14: SCC Course, “The Chem-

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istry & Formulation of Color Cosmetics,” Sheraton Newark Airport, Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org April 28: SCC Course, “Gums, Thickeners and Polymers,” Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org April 28: Florida Chapter Meeting, “USDA NOP Organics,” Peter Boncelet, speaker; Tampa, FL area. More info: www.flscc.org May 5: SCC Course—“Practical Basics & Theory in Emulsion Tech.,”Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org May 5: Intermountain West Chapter’s “IOU” at Noah’s. More info: www.imscc.org May 10-11: NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, Edison, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org

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June 2-3: SCC Annual Scientific Seminar, Bellagio, Las Vegas, NV. More info: www.scconline.org July 19: Ontario 11th Annual Golf Tournament, Caledon Woods Golf Club. More info: www.ontarioscc.org July 29: New York Chapter Golf Outing, Crystal Springs, Hamburg, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org Sept. 14: New York Chapter Monthly Meeting, Pleasantdale Chateau, West Orange, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org Sept. 15-17: Florida Chapter 2011 Sunscreen Symposium, Orlando, FL. More info: www.flscc.org Oct. 5: New York Chapter Monthly Meeting, The Valley Regency, Clifton, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org.

March 2011

SCC News

sion, Session D–Sun. Speakers and topics include Nava Dayan, Ph.D., Lipo Chemicals, Inc., “Evaluation of Photo-Toxic Effect of Fractionated Melanin: A Comparative Study Between Three Different Cell Lines;” Giordio Dell’Acqua, Ph.D., Induchem AG, “Stimulation of Skin Immunity and Langerhans Cells Protection Dramatically Reduces UV-Induced Skin Erythema and TEWL;” Sandy Dumont, Ph.D., Seppic, “Complimentary In Vitro Models to Investigate the Mode of Action of Active Ingredients on the Protection of Extracted Epidermal Stem Cells against Different Types of Stresses;”and Nick Morante, Nick Morante Consultants, “Using Light Diffusion to Making Anti-Aging Claims.” Also scheduled are Mini-Breakfast Seminars—two on Thursday and one on Friday from 7:30 a.m. until 8:45 a.m. The informal nature of these mini-breakfasts allows the opportunity for give and take, questions and answers. COSA MiniBreakfasts are limited to 30 participants. Scheduled topics are “Quantitative Measurement of Well Being”presented by Karl Lintner, Ph.D., Kali’dees Beauty Ideas and “cGMPs for Cosmetics” instructed by Joe Albanese, 3V, Inc., on Thursday morning and “How to do a Patent Search” presented by Tony O’Lenick, Siltech, LLC, on Friday morning. More info: www.scconline.org

On-Site Training Available From SCC

• The Society of Cosmetic Chemists can bring on-site training courses directly to your location, offering convenience, team building with an in-depth focus of the course of your choice. More info: Doreen Scelso, (212) 6681500; email [email protected] Learn the Basics Of Cosmetic Chemistry

• Need an overview of ingredients and formulating principles used in color cosmetics? The SCC will hold a special course on just that on April 13-14 at the Sheraton Newark Airport Hotel in Newark, NJ.

March 2011

Smells Like A Learning Opportunity: ‘Fragrance as a Science’ is March 24

• The Society of Cosmetic Chemists will hold “Fragrance as a Science” on March 24 at the Sheraton Newark Airport Hotel, Newark, NJ. The one-day course will cover the sense of smell, the history of perfume, fragrance creation and duplication, aroma chemicals and reactions, fragrance applications in personal care and household products, fragrance regulations, and natural and organic fragrances. The class will explore fragrance in personal care—including solubility of individual aroma chemicals, partitioning into emulsion and surfactant systems, stability and viscosity issues, and aesthetic translation into diverse media—and fragrance in household products, including interaction of fragrance with substrates, stability in hostile environments, air fresheners and candles and malodor counteractants. Fragrance safety and regulations, the role of RIFM and IFRA and its response to current issues and DfE fragrance criteria will also be discussed, as well as natural and organic fragrances. The course will also cover chemoreception, the stereochemical theory of odor, the vibrational theory of odor, the olfactory gene family, signal transduction: how an odor molecule in the air is transformed into a signal and emotion in the brain. The instructor is Steve Herman, president of Diffusion LLC and a principal in PJS Partners. Herman is also the author of “Fragrance Applications: A Survival Guide.” The rates for the course are $300 for SCC members, $150 for SCC student members and $425 for non-members before March 10, according to SCC. More info: www.scconline.org “The Chemistry & Formulations of Color Cosmetics”will provide an overview of ingredients and formulating principles, and how to select color additives for use in decorative cosmetics from the perspectives of color basics, regulations, stability and color type as well as how to deal with color in terms of color measurement and dispersion. This two-day course will cover the following topics: • Color basics; • Regulations; • Inorganic pigments; • Pearlescent pigments; • Treated pigments; • Filler pigments; • Loose and pressed powders; • Emulsified foundations; • Emulsion mascaras and eyeliners; • Organic colors; • Dispersion; • Color measurement; and • Anhydrous products, including lip-

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sticks and lipglosses, powder cream foundation and blushers, stick eyeshadows, pencils and nail lacquer. The instructors are Jane Hollenberg and Edwin Faulkner. The rates for the course are $500 for SCC members, $225 for SCC student members and $625 for non-members before March 29, according to SCC. The SCC has blocked a limited number of guest rooms at a discounted rate. More info: www.scconline.org

Pre-Register for Door Prizes At NYSCC Suppliers’ Day

• The New York Chapter of the SCC will hold its Suppliers’ Day 2011 on May 10-11 at the New Jersey Convention and Exposition Center in Edison, NJ. Show registration is free, and to qualify for door prizes, attendees must pre-register by May 1, according to event organizer, Curtin Creative Products. More info: www.nyscc.org •

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Financial News

2010 SALES RISE 2.7% AT CHURCH & DWIGHT • Full year 2010 sales increased 2.7% to $2.6 billion at Church & Dwight Co., Inc. James R. Craigie chairman and chief executive officer, commented, “We are very proud of the business results that we accomplished in 2010. Despite weak consumer demand and intense price competition, we delivered 3% organic sales growth, operating margin exceeding 18.1%, strong EPS growth and record free cash flow. Most importantly, we were able to increase market share in six of our eight power brands in 2010 and ended the year with strong consumption in our major brands. “This consumption performance reflects a steady increase in marketing spending throughout the year, ending with our highest marketing spending of the year in the fourth quarter. Our new product launches, such as Arm & Hammer Power Gel Laundry Detergent and Arm & Hammer Double Duty Cat Litter, have also been key contributors to our organic growth this year. In addition, our new manufacturing plant and distribution center in York County, PA, supported continued strong revenue growth and production efficiency for our laundry detergent business.” Reported net sales for the fourth quarter decreased 2.1% to $656.9 million. In regard to 2011, Craigie said,“We expect to build on our strong performance exiting 2010 and generate organic growth of 3-4% in 2011.”

Sales and Earnings Disappoint at Avon

Avon Products Inc.’s fourth-quarter earnings fell 15% because of service disruptions in Brazil and weakness in Russia. For the quarter, the company said it earned $229.5 million, compared to $269.4 million in the year-ago period. Sales rose just 1% to $3.14 billion. “As we closed out the year, we contin-

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ued to experience disappointing sales results which were negatively impacted by service disruptions in Brazil and weak performance in Russia,”CEO Andrea Jung said. It was the second consecutive quarter of disappointing results from Brazil, usually a stronghold for Avon. Last quarter, the company said relaunches of makeup such as mascara and lipstick went poorly. Revenue from North America, 20% of Avon’s total, rose 1% to $644.4 million, although its acquisition of Silpada, a direct jewelry seller, helped sales by 11%. Unit sales dropped 14%. Revenue from Latin America, Avon’s largest region accounting for 40% of its business, rose 5% to $1.27 billion. The steepest drop came from China, where revenue fell 45% to $55 million as the company continues to transition to a direct-selling system more similar to the one it uses elsewhere. A 44% drop in unit sales hurt revenue as the company advertised less. Elsewhere, revenue rose 9% in Western Europe, the Middle East and Africa to $477.6 million and rose 8% in Asia Pacific to $215.2 million. Revenue slipped 6% in Central and Eastern Europe. For the year, net income fell 3% to $606.3 million. Revenue rose 6% to $10.86 billion. Avon cut prices during the recession but is raising them again. It has been focusing on acquisitions for growth and bought skin care products company Liz Earle in 2010.

Strong Q2 at Estée Lauder Sales Increase 10%

The Estée Lauder Company’s fiscal second quarter earnings rose 34%, with the beauty products company benefitting from strong holiday sales and a weaker U.S. dollar. Revenue also beat analysts’ expectations. Net sales increased 10% to $2.49 billion. Net earnings for the quarter jumped

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34% to $343.9 million, the company said. For the six months ended Dec. 31, 2010, the company reported net sales of $4.58 billion—a 12% increase. President and chief executive Fabrizio Freda said sales growth was led by the company’s international businesses, particularly in travel retail and emerging markets, and all its businesses benefited from its cost-cutting efforts. Skin care net sales grew in each of the company’s regions. Operating income increased sharply, primarily reflecting improved results from certain of the company’s heritage brands, driven by increased net sales from higher-margin product launches. Makeup net sales grew in each geographic region. The majority of the sales increase came from the company’s makeup artist brands, which included incremental sales from the acquisition of the Smashbox brand on July 1, 2010. Operating income increased, primarily reflecting improved results from certain of the company’s heritage brands and from its makeup artist brands. The fragrance category posted solid double-digit net sales growth compared with the prior-year quarter. Sales gains were strongest in the Americas. Hair care net sales increased primarily because of incremental sales from expanded distribution, particularly outside the U.S.

A Stellar 2010 for LVMH As Sales Jump 19%

This global economic recovery has been very good for luxury products purveyor LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, as sales rose 19% for the year. LVMH’s perfumes and cosmetics unit recorded revenue growth of 12% to approximately $4.2 billion. Profit from recurring operations rose 14%. “Two thousand ten was a great vintage for LVMH,” said Bernard Arnault, chairman

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March 2011

Financial News

and CEO of LVMH. “The quality of our products, the originality of our brands and the talent of our teams, bolstered by the economic recovery, allowed us once again to gain market share throughout the world. In 2011, LVMH intends to further strengthen its global leadership position in high quality products by relying on its sound long term strategy.” The company recently acquired the Ole Henriksen skin care brand and purchased a majority stake in Nude, another luxury skin care firm.

Alberto-Culver Reports Q1 Sales Increase

• Alberto Culver said first quarter sales increased 11.7% to $405.3 million. On an organic basis, which excludes the effect of foreign currency fluctuations and acquisitions, sales increased 4.4%. On Sept. 27, 2010, the company entered into a definitive agreement with Unilever in which Unilever will acquire all of the outstanding shares of Alberto Culver for $37.50 per share in cash. On Dec. 17, 2010, Alberto Culver stockholders approved the transaction. In the U.S., Q1 sales increased 2.8%, primarily due to strength in hair care, particularly Nexxus. International sales on a reported basis increased 25.2% behind strong growth in all regions in both hair care and skin care.

Sales Up at Elizabeth Arden; Increase 3% in Q2

• Elizabeth Arden, Inc. posted favorable financial results for its second fiscal quarter ended Dec. 31, 2010. Net sales increased 3.1% to $405.6 million. For the six months ended Dec. 31, 2010, the company reported net sales of $690.5 million, an increase of 4.9%. E. Scott Beattie, chairman, president and chief executive officer of Elizabeth Arden, Inc., commented, “The momentum we saw in our business through the first quarter continues. Sales and earnings results were ahead of our prior guidance, driven primarily by the continued strong performance of our international business. March 2011

In constant currencies, net sales of our international business increased by 12%, while net sales in North America were flat. “We saw strong net sales increases in our mass retail and direct-to-consumer businesses that offset declines in our U.S. department store fragrance business, which were largely anticipated.” Beattie continued, “We are pleased with the performance of our brands and the progress we are making with our key initiatives. Year to date, sales of Elizabeth Arden-branded products rose by 7% globally, while sales of our European fragrance business grew by 13%, consistent with our strategy to accelerate the growth of the Elizabeth Arden brand and increase our share of the European fragrance market.”

Colgate Posts 1.5% Rise in Sales for 2010

• For the full year 2010, worldwide sales

nomic conditions around the world. “Colgate’s global market shares in toothpaste and manual toothbrushes are both at record highs year to date. Colgate’s share of the global toothpaste market strengthened to 44.2% year to date, led by share gains in Brazil, China, India, Venezuela, France, Greece and the United Kingdom. Colgate also strengthened its global leadership in manual toothbrushes, with its global market share in that category reaching 31.6% year to date, up 1.6 share points versus year ago. “Pleasingly, our leadership in emerging markets, which represent over half of our global sales, continued to strengthen during the quarter. “As we enter 2011, we continue to plan for higher levels of advertising spending in support of a very full pipeline of new products, which should fuel topline growth worldwide.” •

at Colgate-Palmolive Company rose 1.5% to $15.6 billion. Global unit volume grew 3%. However, net income stayed almost flat at $2.2 billion. The company reported worldwide sales fell 2.5% to $3.98 billion in the fourth quarter. Operating profit decreased 9% to $905 million, while net income slipped 1% to $624 million. Ian Cook, chairman, president and chief executive officer, commented,“We are pleased to have achieved another year of double-digit earnings per share growth in 2010, despite aggressive competitive activity and difficult ecohappi.com

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Supplier’s Corner

RAHN ROLLS OUT SILHOUETTE REFINER • Rahn debuted its new active ingredient, Slimexir, The Silhouette-Refiner, which is said to effectively refine the silhouette while fighting excessive fat. According to the company, its well-designed composition consists of X-Melt, a synergistic blend of methyl xanthines; extract of artichoke (cynara scolymus) and a polysaccharide, levan. X-Melt prevents the uptake of fat into the adipocytes (fat-storing cells) by reducing their rate of maturation. In addition, each of Slimexir‘s components activates lipolysis, which triggers the fragmentation and decomposition of the existing fat. More info: www.rahn-group.com Vitalayer Is New at Silab • Following the launch of its performance ingredients, Silab is now offering, as part of its actives range, a multifunctional active ingredient. A natural active, Vitalayer guarantees skin homeostasis and ensures vital efficiency in various compartments, according to the company. Capable of regulating various biological pathways, it provides multiple solutions for imbalances in the skin. Obtained from the Common Vervain plant, Vitalayer ensures cell homeostasis by maintaining the metabolism of epidermal and dermal cells at an optimum level, according to Silab. More info: www.silab.fr

Sederma’s Latest Rollout Ideal for Brightening Skin

• Sederma offers a new solution to reduce irregularities in pigmentation or to brighten the complexion. Based on a botanical, Wonderlight acts on both melanocytes and their associated keratinocytes to reduce pigmentation disorders. It reduces the Epidermal Melanin Unit cross-talking and blocks the signaling pathways involved in the melanin synthesis. Wonderlight exhibits a stronger effect 118 • happi

on hyper-pigmented areas and equalizes skin pigmentation in order to make them less visible. The ability of Wonderlight to inhibit the UV inducted secretion of GM-CSF (important melanocyte stimulator) was demonstrated in vitro. The concept was validated on living human skin cultures (phototype III) in which the UVAB induced 2-fold increase in the number of melanocytes was totally inhibited in the presence of Wonderlight. Wonderlight is preservative free and is approved for use in Japan. More info: (33) 134841010, [email protected], www.sederma.fr; in the U.S., [email protected], www.crodausa.com

thinking cleaning product companies focused on consumer needs. More info: www.ispcleaning.com

BASF Launches Skin Relaxer • BASF Beauty Care Solutions recently launched D-Stria, a skin relaxer. According to the company, after years of research, BASF researchers were able to identify a cosmetic ingredient capable of reducing the contraction of quiescent striae-derived myofibroblasts, thereby making them functional again, and promoting collagen and elastin synthesis at the stretch mark site. More info: www.basf.com

Rhodiasolv Infinity Reduces Costs in Cleaning Formulations

ISP Performance Chemicals To Support Cleaning Industry • ISP Performance Chemicals will di-

• Global specialty chemicals producer

rect technical service programs toward cleaning product makers dedicated to the formulation of trend-forward products. The company has commercialized a number of polymer-based technologies to better support manufacturers working on products that simplify cleaning and lend substance to novel cleaning benefits, according to ISP. Polymer technologies, such as Sorez HS 205, may be incorporated in a range of household cleaners to assure cleaning in less time and with less energy—two major requirements for today’s on-the-go consumers. A new combination of polymers from ISP, Gantrez S-97 BF polymer with Easy-Wet 20 proprietary surfactant blend, lends cleaning performance to glass cleaner with anti-fog properties—in an environmentally-friendly formulation. A third novel technology now available from ISP, called Jaypol HN 44, is designed to enhance primary and secondary detergency and may be used to “super charge” cleaning attributes of laundry detergents. All three ISP technologies are made commercially viable in support of forward-

Rhodia is promoting the use of Rhodiasolv Infinity as an ingredient that delivers cost reductions in d-limonene-based cleaning products without compromising performance, while enhancing the products’ sustainability profiles. Rhodiasolv Infinity is an innovative non-VOC3 ingredient targeted at industrial and institutional markets. It is a microemulsion concentrate based on eco-friendly and biodegradable ingredients that enables formulators to develop high performance cleaners with an improved safety profile. “Incorporating Rhodiasolv Infinity into d-limonene-based cleaners results in products that not only deliver cost reduction, but also an improved sustainability profile—all without sacrificing functional performance,” said John Foley, vice president, Rhodia Novecare, Industrial and Coatings. “With technology like Rhodiasolv Infinity, we are offering formulators a new generation of high performing sustainable cleaning products at an attractive price point.” More info: www.rhodia.com •

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March 2011

Industry News

GLENN CORP. CELEBRATES 30TH ANNIVERSARY • Glenn Corporation, a member of The DeWolf Companies (DeWolf Chemical, Inc. – Glenn Corporation), is celebrating its 30th anniversary in the chemical distribution business. Marking its growth during the past 30 years is the expansion of its sales team, and the addition of a branch office and warehouse. Glenn Corp. was originally established as a distribution resource to the mining industry in the Midwest U.S., and through the years, it evolved into a personal care solution provider. Today, the company has extended its coverage to include the West Coast, Southwest and Southeast regions. The addition of an account manager, a branch office and a warehouse fulfill Glenn Corp.’s corporate mission to continually expand its offerings and services to meet the needs of its customer base.

As a new account manager, Maggie Grosser brings formulation, product development and marketing experience to the Glenn team from her previous role as a formulator at Aveda. Glenn’s new office space in Charleston, SC will assist with Southeast corporate needs, according to the company. In addition, Glenn Corporation has recently expanded its warehousing facilities to include a warehouse in Dallas, TX, aimed at providing continued supply chain dependability as the company grows. This brings the number of warehouses that Glenn Corporation manages to four, including Chicago, Minneapolis and Los Angeles.

Method Inks Deal with Segetis • Segetis, Inc., a technology-enabled green chemistry company, has established a

Coughlan Products Offers Non-Aqueous Solutions • No parabens or other preservatives. No animal products. No petrochemicals or artificial colors. Increasingly, what is not found in the product is just as important as what is featured in the ingredient call outs. As consumers demand products that are perceived to be safer and more environmentally friendly, major health and beauty marketers are responding to these trends with their own customized set of voluntary restrictions on a host of many time-honored cosmetic ingredients. Coughlan Products, LLC, a Wayne, NJ-based custom formulator and manufacturer of innovative skin care, bath and other personal care products, is uniquely positioned to turn many of its customers’ “restrictions” into market advantages. The company specializes in non-aqueous products that do not require the use of preservatives, but that enhance the delivery of benefits and the value of the brands that market them. This can take the form of powders, oils, traditional and buttery scrubs, balms, solid perfumes, effervescents and salts. “Before we even sit down with a customer to discuss new products, we request their list of prohibited ingredients. Sometimes they send us a short list and other times they forward as many as eight full pages of non-preferred chemicals,” reported CEO Pat Campbell. “In today’s market, benefits are still important, but the ‘prohibited ingredients’ lists are increasingly driving product development direction.” These limitations, according to Coughlan, make formulating tradiMarch 2011

new partnership with Method Products in which the cleaning products company will use Segetis’ bio-based materials in a variety of products. The first products with these ingredients will hit store shelves this month, according to the company. “This technology is a breakthrough that takes Method’s performance and sustainability to the next level,” said Adam Lowry, Method co-founder. “We’re incredibly proud of this innovation because it solves one of the traditional problems in green cleaning—how do you clean effectively without dirty solvents? Instead of formulating around the problem as others must, Method delivers powerful solvency in our products through renewable alternatives.” Powered by its so-called Javelin Technology, Segetis’ materials deliver a performance and sustainability profile that

tional liquids such as shower gels, creams and lotions especially challenging. With their high water content, these products must rely on preservatives and often require petrochemical-based ingredients to ensure good aesthetics and shelf stability. “At Coughlan, our mantra is ‘no water,’” explained Dr. John Brahms, director of R&D. “Products that are dry or oil-based are often self-preserving or require minimal preservation since you are not creating an environment where bacteria can easily grow.” Non-aqueous formulas also deliver the benefit of pure, undiluted product forms that add significant value for the consumer, according to the company. Coughlan specializes in tailoring formulations to each company’s standards, whether that is NOP Certified Organic, NPA compliance or customer-specific performance-based objectives, noted Dr. Brahms. “Our range of product types adds texture, visual interest, in-use benefits and many can be formulated to be preservative-free, vegan, and/or petrochemical-free,” he said. Some examples of recent innovations include a soft-powder facial cleanser specially formulated for dry, oily or sensitive skin that is easy to dispense and foams quickly with just a few drops of water; treatments for chronically dry skin in areas like elbows, knees and heels delivered in cosmetically elegant formulations of vegetable oils and natural butters; and a spray-on, after-shower moisturizer that instantly transforms into a luxurious lotion or oil treatment, according to the company.

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More info: www.coughlanproducts.com happi • 119

Industry News

New Look for Henkel • Henkel is introducing a new corporate design across the company in combination with the launch of its new slogan “Henkel–Excellence is our Passion.” “Our new slogan summarizes what we stand for as a company and with our brands and our people around the world: we strive to be the best in everything we do,” said Kasper Rorsted, chairman of the Henkel management board. “Both our new slogan and our new visual identity will further strengthen the Henkel brand around the world.” The new corporate design was implemented in February, when it was applied to publications like the annual report, recruitment ads, employee newsletters, internet, intranet, and to Henkel conferences, trade shows and exhibits. The core element of the brand appearance is the Henkel logo. It has a long tradition: an oval in corporate red initially appeared on a Henkel product pack back in 1907, and the Henkel name was integrated in the oval in 1920. Over time, the logo and the corporate design have been periodically revised and modernized, the last time in 2002. “The key elements of the new corporate design are a modern layout, clear imagery, a dynamic color scheme with red and white as key colors, and a lighter typography,” explained Carsten Tilger, head of corporate communications at Henkel. “With this new visual identity and the new slogan, we are positioning Henkel as an internationally successful company—with leading brands and technologies, and with highly motivated employees who are passionate about delivering solutions for our customers.”

matches Method’s clean, safe and sustainable objectives. The new bio-based molecules in Method’s products offer improved performance and replace the traditional fossil fuels that are commonly found in ordinary cleaning products, according to the company. Levulinic ketals, the cornerstone of the Javelin Technology, are a broad family of bio-based compositions. Enabled by the development of selective ketalization of levulinic acid esters, these compounds have broad solubility enabling their use as cleaning solvents or coupling agents in liquid formulations, according to Segetis, which is based in Golden Valley, MN.

Arizona Chemical Inks Deal With Essential Ingredients

• Arizona Chemical has entered into an exclusive agreement with Essential Ingredients, Inc., to distribute the company’s unique line of bio-based specialty polymers to the personal care industry in the Eastern U.S. 120 • happi

Under the agreement, Essential Ingredients will offer Arizona Chemical’s Sylvaclear and Uniclear lines, which include patented specialty polymeric gellants that provide a broad range of functionality in personal care and cosmetics applications. “We are confident this partnership will not only extend the reach of our bio-renewable product lines, but also give our customers access to Essential Ingredients’ outstanding technical expertise and customer focus,” said Tom Fontana, director of specialty products at Arizona Chemical. More info: www.arizonachemical.com

Sustainable Cosmetics Summit Is Set for May 12-14 in NYC • Green formulations and sustainable supply chains are focal themes of the next edition of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit, scheduled for May 12-14 in New York City. The event is organized by Organic Monitor. With many cosmetic and ingredient firms still grappling with green formulations, happi.com

the summit devotes a conference session and workshop to discuss technical issues. Key papers will cover natural and organic cosmetic formulations, including parabenfree preservative systems, replacing synthetic chemicals, natural actives and the growing use of sustainable raw materials. For the first time, the summit will bring together heads of leading natural personal care firms in a CEO Roundtable to debate key industry challenges. The CEOs of Burt’s Bees, Aubrey Organics, Weleda and Dr. Hauschka Skin Care will be part of the expert panel to discuss issues relating to sustainability, certification, ethical trade and consumer demand. The summit opens by highlighting Pioneering Sustainability Initiatives in the beauty industry. An Aveda representative will emphasize the importance of sustainability to reduce the ecological and social footprints of beauty products. The global sustainability director of Procter & Gamble will share its game plan to meet the challenges of the triple bottom line. Also in the opening session, a speaker from Henkel will explain how the firm has been successful in receiving the Walmart Sustainability Award two years in a row. Rik Kutsch Lojenga, executive director of the Union for Ethical BioTrade, will highlight the growing importance of biodiversity, while another paper looks at how beauty companies can generate positive impacts. Social impacts are emphasized in the second session on Sustainable Supply Chains. A Beraca representative will discuss the role of ethical sourcing in alleviating poverty and environmental stewardship. Using shea butter as a case study, Dr. Peter Lovett from the USAID West Africa Trade Hub will highlight the positive impact sustainable sourcing can have. At the other end of the supply chain, a leading retailer will share its experiences in meeting consumer expectations for sustainable products. Other topics in the Marketing & Distribution Innovations session cover the potential of biodynamic cosmetics, susMarch 2011

Industry News

tainable packaging, retailing innovations and opportunities in mass-market channels. Future growth projections are given for the natural and organic personal care industry, while a leading research agency will share consumer insights. Findings on the adoption rates of natural and organic products will be given, as well as triggers and motives for purchases. With standards continuing to garner high interest, the final session gives updates on North American natural & organic beauty standards, including NSF ANSI 305, NPA and OASIS. Precise details, as well as adoption issues, of the new USDA bio-based personal care standard will also be given. The implications of the new Safe Cosmetics Act to cosmetic and ingredient firms are also on the agenda. The summit closes with an interactive workshop on Green Chemicals. Judi Beerling, head of technical research at Organic Monitor, will discuss the formulation issues associated with replacing synthetic chemicals, such as parabens, emulsifiers and fragrances. The range of green chemical alternatives is to be explored, as well as their related technical issues. More info: www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com

P&G Links with Institute For Systems Biology

The Institute for Systems Biology (ISB), Seattle, WA, and Procter & Gamble (P&G) have formed a collaborative partnership that will focus on research to characterize the systems biology of various skin conditions including skin aging. The partnership will take advantage of the expertise at ISB in regulatory network inference and modeling, and the expertise of P&G in skin biology and dermatology to characterize and develop models of the global molecular changes that occur in skin under different conditions.

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‘You Be The Chemist‘ Increases Awareness

(YBTC) program. YBTC brings together students, their teachers and the chemical industry to improve science education and to raise the awareness of the science of chemistry, according to program organizers. According to Jillian W. Cimo, Coast Southwest vice president and California YBTC co-organizer, the “program makes chemistry fun for kids and gives companies in the chemical industry a grassroots opportunity to encourage more of our bright young people to pursue chemistry as a course of study and maybe even a career.” An important feature is the YBTC Challenge, an academic competition that focuses on important chemistry concepts, discoveries and chemical safety. Coast Southwest is a Diamond Level sponsor of the 2011 California State YBTC Challenge, which will be held at the Discovery Science Center in Santa Ana on May 10. The YBTC Challenge is organized on local, state and national levels. State

champions from across the country will compete for the national title in the 2011 National YBTC Challenge in Philadelphia on June 20. “Young people today show an amazing aptitude for technology, yet fewer and fewer of them are seeking math and science degrees,” said Kevin D. Sathre, Coast Southwest vice president of sales. “Programs like You Be The Chemist! that get young people fired up about science can help turn this trend around. Coast Southwest is eager to lend our support.”

BioCell Honored By Frost & Sullivan

BioCell Technology LLC, maker of BioCell Collagen II, a healthy aging ingredient promoting both joint and skin health, has received Frost & Sullivan’s 2010 North American Customer Value Enhancement of the Year Award in Bone and Joint Health Ingredients. •

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Deadline for ICMAD City Awards is April 29 • Cosmetic entrepreneurs eager to be recognized for their innovative efforts need only to look to the Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors’ Annual ICMAD CITY Awards for Cosmetic Innovators of The Year. With the honor, member companies will receive many ways to build buzz for their brands, according to ICMAD. The 8th Annual CITY Awards will be presented during the ICMAD annual meeting and dinner on June 29, 2011, in New York City. To be eligible for a CITY Award, the company must be a current member of ICMAD and follow the criteria established for each award category. All products must have first shipped, and marketing and advertising programs initiated, between April 1, 2010, and March 31, 2011. Judges are advertising, marketing and sales executives with experience, but without current affiliation, in the cosmetics industry. The deadline for entries is April 29, 2011. The judges will also select a member company from among all the entries that have been in business less than three years, to be eligible for the New Beauty Innovation Award. This award will be presented to a new company that best represents innovation and creativity. In addition to national media recognition, the CITY Awards winners will be featured with links and contact information on ICMAD’s CITY Awards microsite as well as the ICMAD CITY Innovation Directory page on www.icmad.org. CITY Awards finalists will be featured on the CITY page on ICMAD’s website. Winners and finalists are also encouraged to incorporate their awards into their own online and industry marketing efforts.

• Coast Southwest, Inc. is a leader of

For more information or to receive a call for entries brochure, call 800-334-2623.

California’s participation in the Chemical Education Foundation’sYou Be The Chemist!

More info: www.icmad.org

March 2011

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Personnel Roundup

PERSONNEL CHANGES • Seppic: welcomed Kristin Kunik as the re-

Kunik of Seppic

Maholtra of Seppic

gional account manager overseeing the Midwest territory. She previously held sales management roles at Rhodia/McIntyre, Croda and Collaborative Labs. Danielle North is the newest product manager/account manager handling selected key accounts in the New Jersey/Pennsylvania area and overseeing the distribution product businesses for Stearinerie-Dubois and Sophim. Her past experience was in sales for Schülke Inc. and in R&D as a hair care research assistant at L’Oréal. Priya Maholtra now has sales account responsibility for the East Coast, mainly in the New England, Mid-Atlantic and Southeast regions. Her previous experience includes sales at B&T and formulation at BASF and Avon. Maholtra replaces Patricia Singh, who has been appointed to senior account manager to focus on the accounts of Estée Lauder, Avon and Unilever. Shawn Brown is now technical chemist for the Customer Technical Service Center (CTSC) North America. Prior to this role, he worked as an R&D/QC chemist at Tri-K Industries and as a lab technician at Avon.

• The DeWolf Companies (DeWolf Chemical, Inc. - Glenn Corporation): debuted the creation of a color cosmetics division, spearheaded by the newly-hired market development manager, cosmetics, Lisa Gulibon. Her previous roles as market manager at Lambent Technologies and marketing manager at Cognis Corporation provide her with substantial experience to develop this division aggressively, according to the company. Brown of Seppic

• Demand Media: appointed Lisa Kraynak to serve as general manager, senior vice president of typeF.com, the new fashion and beauty media property created in a partnership between Demand Media and Bankable Enterprises, Inc., Tyra Banks’ company focused on beauty and entertainment. In this position, Kraynak will be responsible for leading the launch, operation and ongoing development of the new digital platform. Most recently, Kraynak served as senior vice president of Digital Media for NBC Universal ,where she helped lead the 122 • happi

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company’s digital media strategy across the entire portfolio of NBC and Universal properties. Previously, she served as vice president of marketing at Viacom. Kraynak has also held key executive positions for Intuit and iVillage.com.

• Topflight Corporation: appointed Rod Stone president. He has management experience in executive and leadership positions across a wide range of operational, sales and quality functions, as well as a strong background in Topflight’s key market groups. Stone joins Topflight after serving as chief executive officer of Diversified Labeling Solutions. Prior to joining Diversified, he held various executive roles within the industry, including 26 years at Standard Register. • The Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA): promoted Phil Klein from senior vice president to executive vice president of legislative and public affairs. Klein joined CSPA in 1988 and has increasingly taken on more responsibility. • Vivimed Labs USA Inc.: hired Glenn Gutkowski as sales and marketing manager for Vivimed’s Jarocol hair dyes. With more than 20 years of experience in the industry, Gutkowski has spent a part of his career formulating final products for multinational consumer goods manufacturers as well as selling and marketing hair dyes. American Cleaning Institute (ACI): has named Michelle Radecki, general counsel of ACI, as a vice president of the association. She will continue to serve as ACI general counsel, a position she was appointed to in 2006. She joined ACI as associate counsel in 2002. She is also the corporate secretary to ACI’s board of directors, a position she was reelected to in January 2011.

•

• Beaute Prestige International (BPI): named Patrice Beliard president of its U.S. division. He succeeds Nicolas Munafo, who left BPI USA in November 2010. Beliard has held a number of successive positions at Beaute Prestige International, most recently as general manager of BPI’s Italian subsidiary; a position he has held since 2006. He previously led the Japanese division with oversight of emerging Asian markets. •

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Linter Creates New Consultancy Karl Lintner, previously managing director of Sederma, has established his consultancy company, Kal’Idees Beauty Ideas S.A.S. It is based in Paris. More info: [email protected]

March 2011

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March 2011

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Private Label/Contract Packaging

You promise. Dotcom delivers. Completely transparent service to your customers, plus: • Reduced distribution costs • Improved service • 100% on time shipping • 99.7% accuracy Call the leaders in multichannel distribution today

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Happi NOW E-Newsletter HAPPI Now is a weekly e-newsletter distributed to approximately 15,000 opt-in e-subscribers! It informs industry professionals of timely industry related news they need to know before it comes out in print. Banner Sponsorship with Hyperlink. For details on rates, contact your Ad Sales Representative or visit

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Professional Directory

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Classified Ads

~ Coming in the April Issue ~ • Fine Fragrance Review • Anti-Aging & Cosmeceuticals • Sun Care Market • Skin Care Polymers • Ethnic Hair Care & Skin Care Market • Chemical Specialties: Aerosols, Disinfectant & Sanitizers For Advertising Information, Contact: Matt Montgomery 201-880-2225 [email protected]

March 2011

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Beth Russo 201-880-2255 [email protected]

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Advertising Index

Advertiser

Page No.

Telephone

Website

Active Organics ..................................................53 ......................800-541-1478................................www.activeorganics.com Ajinomoto ............................................................5 ......................201-292-3180 ..........................................www.ajichem.com AkzoNobel ..........................................................68 ......................888-331-6212 ..............www.akzonobel.com/PersonalCare Alpha Research ..................................................45 ......................914-761-7141 ........................................www.alpharnd.com AMA Laboratories ..............................................55 ......................845-634-4330..........................................www.amalabs.com Arizona Chemical ..............................................50 ......................800-733-1374............................www.arizonachemical.com Ashland Distribution Corp. ................................9 ......................877-FID-EAST ....................................www.FIDonline.com BASF ....................................................................93 ......................800-880-5768 ........................www.personal-care.basf.com BASF Europe........................................................25 ....................800-2273-4444 ......................www.personal-care.basf.com Bayer Inc. ............................................................21 ......................412-777-2000..............................www.bayercosmetics.com Berje......................................................................11 ......................973-748-8980 ..........................................www.berjeinc.com BioScreen Testing Services ................................43 ......................800-229-9057 ......................................www.bioscreen.com Caribbean Natural Products Inc. ......................105 ....................973-882-5115 ....................www.caribnaturalproducts.com Centerchem, Inc. ............................................Cover 4..................203-822-9800....................................www.centerchem.com Chemsil ................................................................13 ......................877-700-0302 ..........................................www.chemsil.com Clinical Research Labs........................................33 ......................732-981-1616 ............................................www.crl-inc.com Coast Southwest ................................................100 ....................800-621-0500 ............................www.coastsouthwest.com Cognis GmbH ..................................................98, 99 ..................800-531-0815 ............................................www.cognis.com Consumer Product Testing, Inc.........................101 ....................973-808-7111 ..........................................www.cptclabs.com Covalence ............................................................23 ......................480-897-0551......................................www.CoValence.com CPL Aromas ......................................................113 ....................732-868-8330 ......................................www.cplaromas.com Croda Chemicals ................................................90 ................+44 (0) 1405 860551 ......................www.croda.com/europe/pc Croda Inc. ............................................................17 ......................732-417-0800 ........................................www.crodausa.com DeWolf Chemical ................................................48 ......................800-521-0065 ..................................www.dewolfchem.com Dr. Straetmans ....................................................79................+49 (0)40 - 669 356-0 ............................www.dr-straetmans.de DSM Nutritional Products, Inc. ........................73 ......................800-526-0189..........www.unlimitednutrition-na.dsm.com DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products Co., LLC ......74 ......................866-404-7933 ..........................................www.dupont.com Galaxy Surfactants Ltd./Tri-K ............................47 ..........+91-22-65134444/27616666 ..............www.galaxysurfactants.com Glenn Corp./DeWolf ..........................................49 ......................651-221-2406 ......................................www.glenncorp.com Grant Industries, Inc. ..........................................3 ......................201-791-8700..........................................www.grantinc.com HallStar ................................................................95 ......................908-852-6128 ..........................................www.hallstar.com Harrison Research Labs, Inc. ............................54 ......................908-688-7600 ................................................www.hrlabs.us 128 • happi

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Advertising Index

Advertiser

Page No.

Telephone

Website

HBA Global Expo................................................35 ......................212-600-3033 ........................................www.hbaexpo.com Hilco Industrial....................................................78 ....................877-37-HILCO ........................................www.hilcoind.com Independent Chemical Corporation ................78 ......................718-894-0700 ..................www.independentchemical.com Innospec ..............................................................19 ......................732-321-3500 ..................................www.innospecinc.com Inolex Chemical Company ................................37 ......................215-271-0800 ............................................www.inolex.com InVitro International ..........................................89 ......................800-246-8487 ......................................www.invitrointl.com Jeen International................................................87......................800-771-JEEN ................................................www.jeen.com Lipo Chemicals ................................................26, 27 ..................973-345-8600 ................................www.lipochemicals.com LycoRed ..............................................................107 ....................877-592-6733 ..........................................www.lycored.com Natural Plant Products ......................................41 ......................503-363-6402 ................................www.meadowfoam.com Noveon Consumer Specialties ..........................71 ......................800-379-5389 ....................www.personalcare.noveon.com Pilot Chemical Co. ............................................67 ......................800-707-4568 ................................www.pilotchemical.com Presperse LLC ....................................................76 ......................732-356-5200 ......................................www.presperse.com Rahn USA Corp...................................................85 ......................630-851-4220 ....................................www.rahn-group.com Rhodia ..................................................................7 ......................800-922-2189............................www.rhodia-novecare.com RITA Corporation ..........................................Cover 2..................800-426-7759 ..........................................www.ritacorp.com Rovi Cosmetics International GmbH................83 ..................+49 66 61 96 76-0 ............................www.ROVIcosmetics.de Ruger Chemical Co., Inc.....................................15 ......................800-274-7843 ..............................www.rugerchemical.com Sabinsa ................................................................31 ......................732-777-1111 ..........................www.sabinsacosmetics.com Salvona Technologies Inc. ................................117 ....................609-655-0173 ..........................................www.salvona.com SCC Suppliers Day ........................................Cover 3..................800-455-0445 ................................................www.nyscc.org Sederma/Croda ..................................................80 ......................732-692-1652..............................................www.sederma.fr Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc. ................97 ......................330-630-9860 ..........................www.shinetsusilicones.com Silab......................................................................84 ..................(33) 05 55 84 58 40 ................................................www.silab.fr Solar Light Co. ....................................................96 ......................215-517-8700........................................www.solarlight.com Spectra Colors Corp. ..........................................77 ......................800-527-8588................................www.SpectraColors.com Sun Deep Cosmetics ..........................................52 ......................800-985-2228 ....................................www.sundeepinc.com Supply Side East..................................................56 ......................800-454-5760 ............................www.supplysideshow.com Tri-K Industries, Inc. ..........................................29 ......................201-750-1055 ................................................www.tri-k.com Universal Preserv-A-Chem, Inc. ......................86 ......................732-568-1266 ........................................www.upichem.com Welch, Holme & Clark Co., Inc. ........................59 ......................973-465-1200 ......................www.welch-holme-clark.com

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Photo News

ONEREPUBLIC PERFORMS AT SUNDANCE FOR BIG PONY LINE • Ralph Lauren Fragrances’ The Big Pony Fragrance Collection made its digital debut at the 2011 Sundance Film Festival “House of Hype” event series. The celebration showcased the Big Pony Fragrances’ advertising campaign, shot by photographer/filmmaker Bruce Weber, as well as an invitation-only live performance by OneRepublic, the pop-rock sensation whose hit song “Secrets” serves as the soundtrack to the commercial film.

Pop rock band OneRepublic performed a concert at the Sundance Film Festival for The Big Pony Collection.

Number 4’s ‘Secret’ Role at Pre-Golden Globes Style Lounge

•Number 4 High Performance Hair Care was part of the ”Secret Room”at the pre-Golden Globes Awards Style Lounge, a setting that pampered nominees, presenters, select celebrities from movies such as the“Social Network”and “The Fighter” and TV shows “True Blood,”“Boardwalk Empire,” “Walking Dead” and “Real Housewives of Orange County and Beverly Hills.” At the event, the salon brand hair care company provided consultations with top hair stylists and gave attendees personalized gifts of Number 4 products to suit their individual hair needs. “Real Housewives of Orange County” Lynne Curtin, Tamra Barney and Peggy Tanous, Ryan Thomas of Ryan Thomas Salon and Cynthia Heisser of viaBeaute all stopped by Number 4 at the pre-Golden Globes Awards Style Lounge.

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PEPHA®-PROTECT

THE NEW BODYGUARD OF THE SKIN

PROTECTS THE SKIN’S DNA FROM UV-INDUCED DAMAGE North American distributor: CENTERCHEM, INC. 20 Glover Avenue, Norwalk, CT 06850 Phone 203-822 9800, Fax 203-822 9820 [email protected] www.centerchem.com DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. P.O. Box 2676 CH-4002 Basel, Switzerland [email protected] www.dsmnutritionalproducts.com

PEPHA®-PROTECT is a highly purified watermelon extract from a species that originates from Kalahari desert. The plant has to withstand extreme climate conditions and high UV doses. PEPHA®-PROTECT shields the DNA of skin cells against daily stress induced by UV irradiation and free radicals. PEPHA®-PROTECT – the new bodyguard of the skin!