HAPPI November 2011

Looking for a Mild Surfactant Package? Don’t compromise mildness for foam, have it both ways with RITAFACTANTS RITA’s p...

Author: Tom Branna

19 downloads 2427 Views 16MB Size Report

This content was uploaded by our users and we assume good faith they have the permission to share this book. If you own the copyright to this book and it is wrongfully on our website, we offer a simple DMCA procedure to remove your content from our site. Start by pressing the button below!

Report copyright / DMCA form

DOWNLOAD PDF

Looking for a Mild Surfactant Package? Don’t compromise mildness for foam, have it both ways with RITAFACTANTS RITA’s patented use of Acyl Lactylate Surfactant Blends.

L

ATURAL & EC

N LL

surfactant packages.

DES AVAILAB

cost-effective

T APPROVED G RA

foaming, stable and

ER OC

E

Exceptionally mild, high

A

For more information please visit us at ritacorp.com

www.ritacorp.com

Your source for speciality chemicals worldwide

Lanolin • Lanolin • Lanolin Derivatives • Absorption Bases • Emulsifiers • Glycol • Glyceryl • PEG Esters • Fatty Alcohols & Acids • Paraffins • Flavinoids • Co-Enzymes • Amino Acids • Vitamins Cationic Quaternary Compounds • Conditions & Styling Aids • Emollient Esters • Polyoxyethylene Ethers, Esters & Resins • Sovlents • Coupling Agents • Ritacanes • Ritadecenes • Carbomers & Gums Methyl Glucose Esters • Acyl Lactylates, Lactates & Lactic Acid • Surfactants • Preservatives / Antimicrobials • Essential Oils • Naturals • Butters • Oils • Certified Organics • Sunscreens • Silicones • Actives • Guars Alkylpolyglucose Esters • Thinkeners & Stabiliziers • Carrier Systems • Proteins • Aiglon • ROVI • Lamberti • Seiwa Kasei

What quality feels like.

Grant Industries is a leading global provider of specialty materials for personal care, known for award-winning products and cutting-edge research. Our dedication to product performance and customer support makes us the ideal source for new ideas and ingredients to improve skin feel.

Products we offer include: N N N N N

Silicone Elastomer Gels Natural Based Technologies Formulated Silicone Products Microsphere Powders Silicone Copolyol Surfactants

N N N N N

Active Delivery Systems Specialty Hair Care Products Physical UV Dispersions Silicone Acrylate Resins Retinoic Derivatives

Contact us today to discover the ways we help ensure your product’s performance is flawless, or learn more at www.grantinc.com.

125 Main Ave. Elmwood Park, NJ 07407

201-791-6700

N

[email protected]

November 2011 Volume 48, No. 11 www.happi.com

67

FEATURES 49

Breakthrough Active Naturals Two hot topics, anti-aging and naturals, combine to create a dynamic growth sector in the global personal care market.

52

Hallstar Combines Science & Nature With the acquisitions of Biochemica and B&T, Hallstar is bringing serious science to the natural personal care segment.

55

All They Want for Christmas... ...is to maintain momentum. Fragrance is showing signs of life once again, but can welcome gains in prestige stick around through the critical holidays?

Cover Story

67

Sink or Swim? Marketers try to boost sales of bar soaps and body washes with innovative ingredients, alluring packaging and savvy campaigns.

79

People, Places and Things Now more than ever, successful I&I marketers have the right mix of personnel, categories and effective products. A list of new ingredients begins on p. 86

89

Recent Patent Applications For Hair Care Polymers Recent patent applications reveal interesting advances in technologies relating to the use of polymers in hair care. Learn how polymers can enhance fragrance, impact foam, improve conditioning, aid color retention and more.

92

Versathix: An Ideal Rheology Modifier

COLUMNS 36

Gleams & Notions Another natural preservative and much more in the news

38

EuroTrends Europeans paint the town red as color cosmetics sales rise

42

The Sunscreen Filter Under the microscope, and under the gun?

Croda researchers detail the benefits of using a high performance thickener. Cover design: Laura Caramagna

4 • happi

happi.com

November 2011

Natural performers, naturally sourced. What do your customers have in common with regulatory authorities? The demand for more sustainability and transparency! The diﬀerence: consumers want personal care products that also oﬀer outstanding performance, look and feel. Meet and surpass these demands with our eco-eﬃcient solutions – like innovative polyglycerol ester-based cosmetic ingredients.

Evonik Industries AG Essen, Germany  +49 201 173 2854 Evonik Goldschmidt Corporation Hopewell, Virginia, USA  +1 804 541 8658 [email protected] [email protected] www.evonik.com/personal-care

DEPARTMENTS 8

Editor’s Page

26

Cautiously optimistic

10

Index to Companies A quick guide to the companies referenced in this issue of HAPPI

12

News Front Alternate beauty channels are booming

16

Formulary A conditioning hair rinse created by Centerchem

20

Patents J&J patents composition with UV radiation absorbing polymer

22

International Unilever acquires Kalina, expands production in Indonesia

100

Marketing News P&G taps Thandie Newton for Olay Total Effects in NA

32

Regulations Formaldehyde is unsafe in hair straighteners

97

Meetings CSPA annual meeting is Dec. 4-8 in Florida

98

Financial News L’Oréal’s sales rise 5% in the first half

100

108

Photo News

Packaging News

Supplier’s Corner

SCC News Preview of the SCC Scientific Meeting, Technology Showcase

110

122

L’Oréal golf outing raises $500K for children’s hospital ICMAD honors young designers

106

Industry News

New Products Tarte debuts starlet makeup vanity for Holiday 2011

103

111

Coty’s technology earns accolades from CGT Group

New Novemer EC-2 Polymer from Lubrizol

Personnel Roundup Dres-Hajeski returns to Lipo

6 • happi

103

happi.com

ADVERTISING SECTIONS 115

Contract Packaging/ Private Label

118

Professional Directory

118

Classified Ads

120

Advertising Index November 2011

Color Care at BASF Effect Pigments with spectacular colors for a multitude of special effects UV Filters for skin and color protection Active Ingredients for improved skin hydration and repair Discover our full range of our color care portfolio at BASF SE 67056 Ludwigshafen, Germany www.personal-care.basf.com Tel. + 800 2273 4444

CAUTIOUSLY OPTIMISTIC

T

HE LUNATIC FRINGE, be it Tea Partier or Occupy Wall Streeter, holds sway in the US these days. While neither side can offer a reasonable solution to debt crisis or class warfare, both sides have managed to grab media attention (“journalists”love an easy story), and nightly news reports and Sunday talk shows are filled with the back and forth of “he said, she said”that ultimately leads to nowhere. But business folk, no not the guys in the corner office mind you, but the people doing the actual work, creating new products, visiting customers and the like, don’t see the world in black and white. For them, there are no clear-cut winners and losers. Instead, they measure their responses with phrases such as“cautiously optimistic,”an ambiguity that can drive reporters mad, but in these uncertain times seems so apropos. In late October, we got a dose of that optimism, when the European debt crisis seemed to be easing, US unemployment levels appeared to be falling, economic growth was revised upward and pundits began suggesting that maybe Christmas wouldn’t be so bad after all. There was plenty of reason to be cautiously optimistic, indeed, and the HAPPI staff found that optimism at trade shows such as the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ Suppliers’ Day, sponsored by the California Chapter and Interclean 2011, which is put on by the International Sanitary Supply Association. Suppliers’ Day, for example, set a record in both the number of attendees and exhibitors. Meanwhile, most Interclean exhibitors noted that resilience is the word that best describes the industrial and institutional cleaning market. To find out how what’s new in I&I, turn to our coverage that starts on p. 79. Also this month, we report on the similarly stable personal cleanser category (p 67). In contrast, the fine fragrance category has experienced more ups and downs than a roller-coaster enthusiast.To find out what’s in store for the market during the all-important holiday selling season, turn to p. 55. And if IP and R&D is more your thing, check out Robert Lochhead’s insightful look at advances in hair care polymers (p. 89) or read more about Croda’s new rheology modifier (p. 92). We hope you enjoy this edition of HAPPI, as always, we welcome your comments and suggestions.

Tom Branna Editorial Director [email protected]

8 • happi

happi.com

V.P./EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Tom Branna, [email protected] ASSOCIATE EDITORS: Melissa Meisel, [email protected], Christine Esposito, [email protected] COLUMNISTS: Ally Dai, Harvey Fishman, Navin Geria, Katie Middleweek, Sueli Ortega, Patrick Ropella CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Nancy Jeffries

RODMAN PUBLISHING PRESIDENT: Rodman J. Zilenziger, Jr., [email protected] EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT: Matthew J. Montgomery, [email protected] PUBLISHER: Art Largar, [email protected] ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER: Beth Russo, [email protected] EUROPEAN SALES: Baudry Boisseau Associates Tel: 32-2-513-06-47 • Fax: 32-2-514-17-38 Email: [email protected] ADVERTISING SALES (Hong Kong, Taiwan & China): Michael R. Hay, Ringier Trade Publishing Ltd. Hong Kong (852) 2369 8788 • Fax: (852) 2869 5919 E-mail: [email protected] PRODUCTION DIRECTOR: Sharon Messner, [email protected] ART & TECHNICAL MANAGER: Michael Del Purgatorio, [email protected] ONLINE DIRECTOR: Paul Simansky, [email protected] WEB MANAGER: Jason Lawton, [email protected] CIRCULATION MANAGER: Richard DeVoto, [email protected] AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT MANAGER: Joe DiMaulo, [email protected] To renew/subscribe/update subscription information, please visit www.happi.com. Or contact: [email protected] Tel: (201) 825-2552 ext. 374 Fax: (201) 825-6582.

A Rodman Publication 70 Hilltop Road Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA Tel: (201) 825-2552 Fax: (201) 825-0553 Website: www.Happi.com happi—Household and Personal Products Industry (ISSN 0090-8878) is published monthly on the 10th by Rodman Publishing Corp., 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA. Phone: (201) 825-2552. Fax: (201) 825-0553. Periodical postage paid at Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA and additional mailing offices. Publications Mail Agreement No 40028970: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Dept., PO Box 1051, Fort Erie, On L2A 6C7. Circulation Dept.: circulation @rodpub.com. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Happi, 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey NJ 07446 USA. Free subscriptions to Happi are available to qualified individuals. Others are as follows: U.S. one year $85; two years $115. Outside U.S. and overseas: one year $105 (U.S.), two years $150 (U.S.). Single issue: $12 (except for February, July and October, $15). 5% GST required on Canadian orders. GST#134451756. Foreign Airmail: one year $195 (U.S.). Make checks payable in U.S. dollars through a U.S. bank. American Express also accepted. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Missing Issues: Claims for missing issues must be made within three months of the date of the issue. PRINTED in USA. Happi’s circulation is audited by BPA International. Authorization to photocopy items in Happi for internal or personal use, or internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted by Rodman Publishing, provided a base fee of U.S. $1 per page is paid directly to: Copyright Clearance Center, 27 Salem St., Salem, MA 01970 USA.

November 2011

Index to Companies

•

This index gives the starting page for a

department or feature with a significant reference to a brand, finished product company, agency, research firm, retailer or trade association. Subsidiaries are indexed under their own names. 3M . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 Accenture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Acne Pwner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 AcneApp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Ahava . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Alba Botanica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 Alberto-Culver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Alighiero Campostrini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 AmorePacific . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Amway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Aramis and Designer Fragrances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Arbonne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55, 100 Arm & Hammer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Avalon Organics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 Aveda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 Aveeno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Avéne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Avon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Axe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Babor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Balenciaga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Bare Escentuals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103 Bath & Body Works . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55, 67 Beiersdorf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Betco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 BioLab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Blyth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 Bond No. 9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Boom LLC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Bottega Veneta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Burt’s Bees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 Chanel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12, 55 Chase Products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 Church & Dwight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Clairol Professional . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110 Clean & Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Clorox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 CLR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Colgate-Palmolive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20, 67 Collistar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Cosmetic Ingredient Review . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Coty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55, 111 Creed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Crest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Deloitte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 DermStore.com . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Dial . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Diane von Furstenberg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Diversey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 Divine Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 Dollar Tree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

10 • happi

Dove . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Dr. Hauschka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Duane Reade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Earth Friendly Products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 Ecocert . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111 Ecolab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86, 111 Elite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Elizabeth Arden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Essie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Estée Lauder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Eucerin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Euromonitor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 Every Man Jack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 Febreze . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Fragrance Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Gilt Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Give Back Brands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Givenchy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Gojo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 Gold Bond . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Greased Lightning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Groupon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Gucci . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Guerlain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Guthy-Renker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Harajuku Lovers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 HauteLook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 HSN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 ICMAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103 INCC Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Ivory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Jafra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Jane Iredale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 Jason . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Jelmar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Jingle G . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 John Varvatos USA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Johnson & Johnson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20, 67 Jurlique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 Justin Bieber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Kalina Concern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Kantar Worldpanel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Kao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Katie Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Kline & Company . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12, 49, 67, 86 Korres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 L'Oréal . . . . . . . . . . . .20, 38, 49, 89, 98, 110, 111, 122 L’Occitane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 Laboratorios Nuxe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Lancôme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 LaRoche-Posay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 LivingSocial . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Lorac . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 Lush . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26, 67 LVMH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 M.A.C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Macadamia Natural Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 Marni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Mary Kay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Maybelline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Mentholatum Company . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103

happi.com

Mercedes-Benz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Mintel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Nalco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 Nature’s Gate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Naturex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Neutrogena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Nivea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 NovaLash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 NPD Group . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 NSF International . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Nu Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 Obagi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Olay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26, 67 Old Spice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 One Bath & Body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 OPI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 Orbio Technologies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 Oriflame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Orofluido . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 Oscar de la Renta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Philosophy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Pork Barrel BBQ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Prada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Pravana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 Procter & Gamble . . . . . . . . . . .20, 26, 67, 86, 89, 110 QVC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Redken . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 Rue La La . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 SC Johnson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Sealed Air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 SheaMoisture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Simply Saline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 SoftLips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103 SoftSoap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Sothys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Spartan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 St. Ives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 State Chemical Solutions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 Stoko Skin Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 Suave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Sundial Creations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Swisher Hygiene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 SymphonyIRI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38, 55, 67 Tarte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 Taylor Swift . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 TCCD International . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 The Body Shop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 Thymes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 Tom’s of Maine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 Too Faced . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 Ulta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 Une . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Unilever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22, 67 Unipro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Upper Canada Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Urban Decay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 Vichy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 Victoria’s Secret . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Vitabath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Walgreen’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Windex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

November 2011

News Front

ALTERNATE BEAUTY CHANNELS ARE BOOMING

Sales of cosmetics and toiletries on shopping networks are booming, according to Kline & Company. Above, Mally Roncal, founder of Mally Beauty, is on-air with QVC program host Albany Irvin.

•

Sales of cosmetics and toiletries through alternate channels have exploded, growing by nearly $1 billion since 2005, according to the latest Beauty Retailing USA 2010 report by Kline & Company. More double-digit growth is expected as consumers are increasingly drawn to the convenience of at-home shopping to meet their beauty needs. Posting 25.4% growth from 2005 to 2010, e-commerce sales are leading the way, followed by home shopping networks like QVC and HSN posting a CAGR of nearly 20%. Similarly, infomercials for brands such as Hydroxatone, Proactiv and Sheer Cover, bolstered by industry veteran Guthy-Renker

12 • happi

and its multi-media celebrity-endorsement approach to marketing, have recorded sales growth in excess of 17%. “Consumers are spending more time at home, either by virtue of unemployment, telecommuting, or merely a desire to save money by not going out so much,” noted Karen Doskow, consumer products industry manager at Kline. According to Doskow, instead of running out to the store to buy their beauty products, they’re watching home shopping channels and infomercials to learn the latest on new products or searching online sites to get more information. Consequently, brand marketers are exploring new tactics to build online buzz.

happi.com

Daily deal sites, such as Groupon, LivingSocial, and so-called“flash sale”sites such as HauteLook, Rue La La and Gilt Group, are fueling e-commerce sales by creating awareness and enticing interest about new products or services by offering one-time discounts in order to create trial. Doskow also noted that the bricks-andmortar front is far from lagging. “Beauty has become the new revenue sweetheart in the traditionally slow-growing drug store channel as pharmacies reinvigorate their beauty offerings to lure customers with a more upscale, specialtystore look. For example, Walgreens’acquisition of Duane Reed and its high-end Look boutiques is expected to promote growth for both the chain and the channel. Meanwhile, CVS, Rite Aid, and others are offering new and improved customer loyalty programs and expanding shelf space for their beauty merchandise,”she said. Furthermore, Kline’s study reveals that as brands increasingly look to leverage mobile and e-commerce to create seamless and ubiquitous purchase options for their customers, single-channel marketing is being rendered less and less viable. “We expect a great deal of cross-channel promotion that will drive solid growth over the next five years,”predicts Doskow. “The internet and mobile technologies

November 2011

PersonalCare

Solutions for personal care products Lonza provides preservatives and more for your formulations Lonza offers a variety of alternative ingredients to fulfill various functional components of skin care products.

From the trusted name in preservation, ECOCERT, NATRUE and Soil Association compliant alternatives to protect your formulations:

Our proven preservatives are a cost-effective way to ensure product integrity:

Lonza offers multifunctional ingredients to enhance your personal care formulations:

Geogard™ 111A Geogard™ 221 Geogard Ultra™

Glydant™ Glydant Plus™ Glycacil™ Isocil™ PC

Polyaldo™ LaraCare™ A200 SeaPure™ agarose

Lonza Inc., 90 Boroline Road, Allendale, NJ 07401 – Tel. 201 316 9200 – Fax 201 785 9973 Tel. Asia +41 86 20 8433 8998 – Tel. Europe +41 61 316 81 11

www.lonza.com

News Front

are empowering consumers to be even more aggressive in their product and price comparisons and driving marketers to deliver value-based products to meet these demands.” More info: www.KlineGroup.com

Are Daily Deal Companies Here To Stay? • With email messages promising halfprice sushi, 66% off laser rejuvenation treatments, and $10 to spend at Whole Foods, daily deal companies like Groupon and LivingSocial are trying to tempt cashstrapped consumers in this web-driven, but stagnant economy. And despite recent news reports questioning the long-term viability of these companies and others like them, a new study from researchers at Rice University and Cornell University shows that daily deal companies are more popular than ever among consumers. “The key finding is that there is no ev-

Daily deal offers lure consumers with slashed prices and special offers.

idence of waning interest among consumers of daily deal promotions,”said Rice University’s Utpal Dholakia, co-author of “Daily Deal Fatigue or Unabated Enthusiasm?” “In fact, the more deals purchased by an individual, the more enthusiastic they seem to be.” Dholakia, a professor of management

at Rice University’s Jones Graduate School of Business, and Sheryl Kimes, professor of hospitality management at Cornell University, examined consumer perceptions of daily deal promotions.The researchers surveyed 973 respondents in August; 655 were daily deal users and 318 were not. The new study shows significant opportunity for growth among consumers, as only 16.7% of the research panel’s population has used daily deals before, and the majority of non-users (90.6%) haven’t bought a deal because of awareness or access issues. “We see significant further opportunity for trial and use of daily deals by current non-users,”Dholakia said. Overall, daily deal customers tend to have little interest in being seen as different or “fringe” in their shopping patterns, are not very careful with their personal finances and do not think about spending issues all the time. They are interested in trying new products and services to have

SHARED VALUES – SHARED SUCCESS Brenntag Personal Care North America shares your desire to sensitively develop innovative products and solutions. We provide our customers with global access to a comprehensive range of ingredients and worldclass manufacturers through the largest specialty ingredient distribution network in the world. Anticipating the products for tomorrow Our applications lab is continually incorporating new ingredients into formulas relevant to today’s market trends.

14 • happi

Innovating solutions Our technical experts both in the field and in the lab optimize your formulations based on an extensive product portfolio and technical training. Collaborating with customers We understand the challenges and needs of our customers. Our market experienced sales team transforms visions into realities and converts costconsciousness into high performance. Taking a step ahead From multiple locations across North America, Brenntag’s Personal Care

happi.com

team offers LTL shipments, sampling capabilities, local customer service and warehousing, exceeding our customers’ needs every day. Do you share our values? Let us show you how to share success. Please contact us to learn how.

Brenntag North America 5083 Pottsville Pike Reading, PA 19605 Phone 610 926 6100 x 3858 [email protected] www.brenntagnorthamerica.com

November 2011

News Front

What's new on the cosmetic ingredient market?

new experiences to talk about and influence others. They are attracted to a deal because it is a deal, and are likely to be less sensitive to the actual terms of the offer made by the merchant. “All of these psychological characteristics indicate that the underlying motivations for purchasing daily deals are complex and multifaceted, having to do with more than just saving money,” Dholakia said. The study brings into question a basic belief held by most in the daily deal industry. “There is a theory that consumers must be offered deep discounts (50% percent or more) to be interested in daily deals,”Dholakia said. “Our research shows that a significant number of consumers will continue to buy the deals even if the discounts are slightly smaller. This is a significant finding because my previous research showed that businesses find huge discounts to be unsustainable. The industry seems to be operating under the opinion that deep discounts are the only way to be successful, but that’s not the case.” The study was funded by Cornell’s Center for Hospitality Research and Rice University. More info: www.ruf.rice.edu/~dholakia

Beauty Brands and Brand Loyalty • Beauty brands like Mary Kay, Estée Lauder, Crest Whitestrips and Maybelline accounted for nearly one-third of the 2011 edition of the Brand Keys 100 Loyalty Leaders, an annual survey conducted by Brand Keys, the NewYork-based brand, customer loyalty and engagement consultancy. “Brand loyalty has always been primarily driven by emotion,” said Robert Passikoff, Brand Keys founder and president. “The rankings on the 2011 index make it clear that more than ever consumers seek to emotionally connect with brands that actually stand for something, and to connect with each other too.” The 2011 Brand Keys Loyalty Leaders List includes 528 brands in 79 categories.The top-50 ranked Brand Keys Loyalty Leaders is comprised of eight general categories. Beauty brands account for 32% of the most loyalty brands, according to the company. “The ‘emotional engagement’that women share with their favorite beauty brands is very powerful,”said Amy Shea, Brand Keys executive vice president for brand development.“But that emotional resonance extends to technology too, as consumers seek to customize their life experience more than ever.” Among the beauty brands in the top 100 that saw the greatest losses in loyalty were Chanel cosmetics and Eucerin skin moisturizer. “Some brands have, of course, suffered loyalty losses as consumers shifted to less expensive brands that had considerable meaning,”said Shea.“But brands that understand that real emotional connections can serve as a surrogate for added-value can create stronger loyalty bonds no matter the economy. The complete 2011 rankings can be found online at the Brand Keys website. More info: http://brandkeys.com/awards/leaders_11.cfm • November 2011

happi.com

Biotech innovations with a touch of nature VITIPURE TM, VELSAN ® and ZENVIVO TM – a unique range of biopolymers for personal care to fulfill consumers desire for purity and effectiveness. These natural personal care ingredients originate from vegetal sources and contribute to consumers well-being and well-feeling. Moisturizing, protecting and repairing effects are combined with an extraordinary gentle feel for skin and hair. www.personalcare.clariant.com

What do you need?

happi • 15

Formulary

CENTERCHEM CREATES CONDITIONING HAIR RINSE Centerchem 203-822-9800 • Website: www.centerchem.com INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A Teginacid C (Evonik) (Ceteareth-25) 0.50 Tego Alkanol 16 (Evonik) (Cetyl alcohol) 3.00 Tego Amid S18 (Evonik) (Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine) 1.00 Tegosoft DEC (Evonik) ((Diethylhexyl carbonate) 1.00 Abil Quat 3474 (Evonik) (Quaternium-80) 1.00 Phase B Deionized water 85.50 Propylene glycol (RITA) 2.00 Citric acid 0.30 Phase C Diocide (Centerchem) 0.70 Phase D Keratrix (Provital S.A./Centerchem) 5.00 PROCEDURE: Weigh out phase A and B in suitable sized beakers. Heat phase A and B to 75°C. Mix until both phases are uniform. Add phase B to phase A. Mix 5 minutes. Begin cooldown with mixing. At 65°C, homogenize. At 40°C, add phases C and D. Continue cooldown with mixing.

Satin Instinct Mild Conditioning Shampoo Dow Personal Care 800-447-4369 • Website: www.dowpersonalcare.com E-mail: [email protected] INGREDIENTS Phase A Deionized water Versene 100 XL (Dow Chemical)(Tetrasodium EDTA) EcoSmooth Satin (25.7% active) (Dow Chemical) (Ethylene/sodium acrylate copolymer) Phase B Empigen BSFA (30% active) (Huntsman) (Cocamidopropyl betaine) Empicol ESB-70 (70% active) (Huntsman) (Sodium laureth sulfate) Phase C Citric acid, 10% solution (Prolabo) Phase D Neolone PE Preservative (Dow Chemical) (Methylisothiazolinone, phenoxyethanol) Fragrance Vanille E0919169 (Mane) 16 • happi

WT%

Phase E Sodium chloride (Prolabo) Phase F Deionized water

17.14

1.25 0.55 0.13

5.18

PROCEDURE: Introduce the ingredients in the order listed above, taking care to homogenize properly after each introduction. Use citric acid to adjust pH to the target pH of 6.0. PROPERTIES: pH (as is)—5.9-6.1; Viscosity—9000 cPs (Brookfield LV, spindle 4, 12 rpm); Appearance—Clear.

Water-Based Acrylic Nail Polish (F-02-016B) Interpolymer Corporation Email: [email protected] • 781-828-7120 Website: www.interpolymer.com INGREDIENTS WT % Phase A Syntran PC 5620 (Interpolymer) (INCI Pending) 94.500 Phase B Dowanol TPM (Dow) (Tripropylene glycol methyl ether) 2.750 Dowanol DPnP (Dow) (Dipropylene glycol n-propyl ether) 1.925 Syntran KL-219CG (Interpolymer) 0.825 (Ammonium acrylates copolymer) PROCEDURE: Add Syntran PC 5620 to batch tank. Begin appropriate agitation. In a separate vessel, premix phase B with appropriate agitation. Slowly add phase B to phase A with constant agitation. Stir for 30 minutes and avoid aeration. PROPERTIES: pH—7.0-8.0; Solids—40-42%; Stability—Passed 3 Freeze-thaw cycles and 1 month @ 52ºC.

Economic Green Moisturizing Body Wash

65.00 0.26 0.97

8.00

1.50

BASF Tel: 973-245-6398 • Email: [email protected] Website: www.basf.com INGREDIENTS Phase A Plantapon PSC (BASF) (Coco-glucoside (and) disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate (and) glycerin)

WT% 16.7

Product formulas are supplied by producers of raw materials. Included in some instances are sources of supply for the raw materials and instructions for preparation and use of the finished product. No guarantee of performance or safety is implied by Happi. For more complete details, readers should contact the suppliers directly using the telephone number or website provided with each formula. If your company has a formula that you think would be of interest to readers of Happi, marketers of soaps and detergents; cosmetics and toiletries; fragrances; waxes and polishes; disinfectants and sanitizers and other chemical specialties, we will be pleased to consider it for publication. Address all material to: Formulary Editor, Happi, 70 Hilltop Rd., Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA; Email: [email protected].

happi.com

November 2011

Formulary

Dehyton PK(BASF) (Cocamidopropyl betaine ) 20.3 Lamesoft PO 65 (BASF) (Coco-glucoside (and) glyceryl oleate) 0.5 Glycerin 3.3 Phase B Water, demin. 57.8 Phase C Sodium benzoate 0.5 Perfume q.s. Citric acid (50%) 0.9 PROCEDURE: Prepare phase A separately and mix with phase B until homogeneous. Add preservative, perfume and citric acid for pH-adjustment. The amount of citric acid is approximate for pHadjustment. The amounts of Lamesoft PO 65 and sodium chloride are approximate for viscosity adjustment. PROPERTIES: pH value (as is)—4.9; Viscosity (Brookfield RVT, 23°C, spindle 4, 10 rpm) —~3,500 mPa•s

Oil-Free Eyeshadow

trimonium chloride) Citric acid Sodium chloride Mackstat GCM (Rhodia) (Glyceryl caprylate (and) methylisothiazolinone) Preservative, fragrance, dye Tetrasodium EDTA

q.s. q.s. 1.0 q.s. 0.2

PROCEDURE: Charge water and begin mixing to create a vortex. Slowly disperse. Jaguar C-14S. Heat to 50°C and add Rhodapex ALSA-K, Mackalene 426-100 and Mackester EGDS. Heat to 75°C and blend until homogeneous. Cool to 50°C and add remaining components. Add Mackstat GCM, fragrance, dye, tetrasodium EDTA. Adjust pH with citric acid and viscosity with sodium chloride. PROPERTIES: Appearance—Viscous, pearled liquid; BrookfieldViscosity at 25°C—5,000–15,000 cps (LVT, spindle 3, 12 rpm); pH @ 25°C—5.0-7.0; Solids, %—12-15%; Storage-Stability Stable for 1 month (25°C; 45°C ; 4°C) 3 cycles of freeze/thaw.

Honeywell submitted by DeWolf Chemical, Inc., a Member of The DeWolf Companies

Whipped Shave Cream

800-521-0065 • Fax: 401-434-5306 Email: [email protected] Wesbite: www.dewolfchem.com

Coast Southwest, Inc. Tel: 800-621-5055 • Fax: 714-524-8363 Email: [email protected] Website: www.coastsouthwest.com

INGREDIENTS WT % Phase A Honeywell Asensa CL 120 (Honeywell) (Polyethylene) 19.00 Honeywell Asensa CL 110 (Honeywell) (Polyethylene) 10.00 Phase B Covapearl Brown 838 AS (Sensient Cosmetic 35.00 Technologies) (Iron oxides; mica; triethoxycaprylylsilane) Covapearl Lt. Brown 830 AS (Sensient Cosmetic 35.00 Technologies) (Mica; iron oxides, Triethoxycaprylylsilane) Phase C Phenonip (Preservative) 1.00 PROCEDURE: Combine all ingredients in an Osterizer and mix until uniform (about one minute). Press into pans.

Emollient Liquid Hand Soap Rhodia Tel: 888-776-7337 or 215-781-6364 (tech service) Email: [email protected] Website: www.rhodia.com INGREDIENTS WT % Phase A Water q.s. to 100 Rhodapex ALSA/K (Rhodia) (Ammonium lauryl sulfate) 40.0 Mackalene 426-100 (Rhodia) (Isostearamidopropyl 1.4 morpholine lacate) Mackester EGDS (Rhodia) (Glycol distearate) 1.0 Jaguar C-14S (Rhodia) (Guar hydroxypropyl0.4 18 • happi

INGREDIENTS WT% Phase A Water q.s. to 100 Methylparaben (Coast Southwest) 0.1 Allantoin (Coast Southwest) 0.1 Glycerin (Coast Southwest) 4.0 Endinol SCS (Coast Southwest) (Sodium coco sulfate) 2.0 Phenoxyethanol (Coast Southwest) 0.85 Phase B Stearic acid (Coast Southwest) 12.0 Palmitic acid (Coast Southwest) 8.0 Myristic acid (Coast Southwest) 6.0 Cetyl alcohol (Coast Southwest) 2.0 Tocopheryl acetate (Coast Southwest) 0.05 Endisil F-350 (Coast Southwest) (Dimethicone) 0.75 Phase C TEA 99% (Coast Southwest) (Triethanolamine) 0.3-2.0 Phase D Endicare PQ-11 (Coast Southwest) (Polyquaternium-11) 1.5 Fragrance q.s. Extract blend q.s. PROCEDURE: Phase A—Heat water in phase A to 70°C and add remaining phase A ingredients. Phase B—Combine phase B ingredients and heat to 70°C. When both phase A and phase B are at 70°C, add phase B to phase A. Phase C—Adjust pH with phase C and continue slow sweep mix. Phase D—Cool batch to 45°C and add phase D ingredients individually. Do not over-mix. •

happi.com

November 2011

How would you know if you could always be a part of his life? Keep tomorrow in mind in all that we do today. At Emery Oleochemicals, we take great pride in being one of the world’s largest natural-based chemical producers that constantly strives to meet your needs better. That is why, we have added green surfactants to our range of products. Now we have an even more extensive portfolio to offer you in home and personal wellness. Together with our continuous R&T effort and vast worldwide network, we will keep our innovative solutions always within your reach.

Patent review

J&J PaTeNTS COmPOSITION wITH UV RadIaTION aBSORBINg POLymeR • US Patent No. 8,025,868 B2; Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc., Skillman, NJ, has patented compositions comprising an ultraviolet radiation-absorbing polymer. It entails a blend containing a UVabsorbing polymer comprising the polymerization reaction product of a first ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising a first pendant group that comprises a UV-absorbing moiety, and a second pendant group selected from the group consisting of H, or C1 to C12 alkyl; and a second ethylenically unsaturated monomer selected from the group consisting of monomethacryloxypropyl polydimethylsiloxane and methacryloxypropyl trimethoxysilane, wherein the number of repeat units of said first reacted monomer per molecule is from one to approximately 6000 and the number of repeating units of said second reacted monomer per molecule is from about two to about 6300. The UVabsorbing polymer has an average molecular weight of at least 2000 and comprises at least 5 mole percent of the first pendant group. The second UV-absorbing polymer comprises a UV-B absorbing moiety. The blend is capable of providing both synergistic SPF and synergistic PFA protection over a mass percent range of the first and second UV-absorbing polymers of at least 40%.

Cosmetic with Enhanced Wear • US Patent No. 8,025,869 B2; L’Oréal, France, has patented a cosmetic composition comprising a polypropylsilsesquioxane film forming resin; volatile solvent; and op-

tionally a colorant. The cosmetic composition is anhydrous and is free from any nonvolatile solvent or plasticizer.

Colgate-Palmolive Patents Fabric Softener • US Patent No. 8,026,205 B2; ColgatePalmolive has been granted a US patent for a fabric softening composition. It is comprised of 0.01- 50% of a cationic or nonionic softening compound, perfume and a polymeric material capable of retaining volatile perfume ingredients comprising at least 0.001% by weight of a cross-linked polymer comprising at least one vinyl monomer and 50-60% by weight of acrylamid, wherein the polymer excludes diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate; and 5,000-100,000 ppm of a divinyl cross-linking agent.

Decreasing Pigmentation Of Hyperpigmented Skin • US Patent No. 8,025,893 B2; Bor Sinan Tas of Turkey has patented a method to decrease pigmentation of hyperpigmented skin. It comprises administering cyclopamine or another compound that selectively inhibits Hedgehog/Smoothened signaling in a dosage that decreases the amount of pigmentation in the area.

Two-Part Hair Dye Patented by Kao • US 8,025,702 B2; Kao Corp., Tokyo, has patented a two-part hair dye composition.

It contains an alkali agent, hydrogen peroxide and a non-aerosol type foamer container for discharging the mixture as foam. The mixture solution has two components—A is 0.1 to 10% by mass of a nonionic surfactant and B is 0.1 to 5% by mass of a cationic surfactant. The mass ratio of component A to component B is 1 to 100.

P&G Patents Surfactant Concentrate • US Patent No. 8,026,203 B2; The Procter & Gamble Company has patented a surfactant concentrate that is comprised of approximately 75% of an essentially completely neutralized anionic sulphated surfactant and 5-25% carboxylic acid, of which about 4% to about 96% of the carboxylic acid is in its free acid form. The anionic sulphated surfactant comprises an alkyl alkoxy sulphate, wherein the alkyl group contains from about 10 to about 22 carbon atoms and the alkoxy group contains from about 1 to about 15 alkoxylate moieties and further wherein said concentrate comprises 0% of a nonionic surfactant. Anionic Surfactant Granule •

US 8,026,204 B2; Kao Corp. has patented a method for producing an anionic surfactant granule. It entails granulating an anionic surfactant powder in a granulator with agitating blade while adding water.The temperature of the granule is higher by 0.5 to 30°C than the boiling point of water under a pressure of the inside of the granulator. •

Hair Color Patents Awarded to L’Oréal • Beauty giant L’Oréal has been awarded a pair of patents related to its hair care business. US Patent No. 8,025,700 B2 covers a method of treating keratinous fibers for partial bleaching. It is comprised of exposing at least one region being treated to at least one light pulse laser, a duration over which a light power of the pulse reaching the fibers is equal to or greater than one half of a peak power being between about 100 ps and about 20 • happi

1 μs. The pulses occur at a frequency greater than about 10 kHz. In US Patent No. 8,025,701 B2, the beauty and hair care company has patented the use of natural hues for coloring human hair. The composition comprises at least one natural dye chosen from orceins, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpuroqallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, curcumin, spinulosin, apiqenidin, chlorophyllin, sorghum, and cochineal carmine and at least one organic solvent.

happi.com

November 2011

The choice for all of your testing needs.

We are Consumer Product Testing Co., Inc, a full 35 years service independent laboratory with over 30 of experience. Leading companies in the cosmetic, personal care, pharmaceutical, medical device and specialty chemical industries have come to depend on us. Critical evaluations in the fields of chemistry/ stability, microbiology, clinical safety and efficacy, photobiology (SPF) and preclinical safety are routinely provided. Our technical staff is available to discuss scientific and regulatory issues in a timely and user friendly fashion. So check us out – you’ll never choose another.

CONSUMER PRODUCT TESTING COMPANY 70 New Dutch Dutch Lane, Lane, Fairfield, Fairfield,NJ NJ07004-2514 07004-2514 Tel: 973-808-7111, Fax: 973-244-7535 Tel: 973-808-7111, Fax: 973-244-7507 E-mail: [email protected]

FDA

DEA

EPA

USDA

GMP/GLP/GCP

Conception to Completion

www.cptclabs.com

International

UNILEVER ACQUIRES KALINA, EXPANDS PRODUCTION IN INDONESIA categories; adds to Unilever’s portfolio successful, authentic Russian brands in skin care, hair care and oral care like Pure Line, Black Pearl, Silky Hands, 100 Recipes of Beauty and Forest Balm, complementing Unilever’s own brands such as Dove, Sunsilk, Timotei and Clear; and provides Unilever with the opportunity to use its technology to take these brands to a new level. “Personal care is a strategic category for Unilever and growing rapidly,”added Polman.“Ten years ago it represented 20% of group turnover; strong organic growth has driven it to now reach over 30%, with strong positions in many of the emerging markets.” Timur Goryaev, chairman of Concern Kalina, added, “The agreement reached with Unilever will enable the brands we have built into some of Russia’s best loved and most recognized since we started in 1996 to be taken to new heights.” Subject to obtaining the required regulatory approvals, the acquisition is expected to complete by the end of 2011. On completion, Unilever intends to launch a mandatory tender offer to acquire the remaining shares that are not part of the initial agreement, at such time and on terms mandated by Russian law. In other news, Unilever has unveiled its expanded production facilities in Indonesia, which it says will help drive sustainable growth for the company in developing and emerging markets. The company has invested about €90 million to build a new, state-of-the-art personal care factory and to expand existing ice cream and personal

Personal care workers at Unilever’s expanded production facilities in Jakarta.

• RUSSIA: Unilever has acquired 82% of Concern Kalina, Russia’s largest local personal care player with leading positions in skin and hair care and an expected 2011 turnover of approximately €303 million.The transaction, which is pending required regulatory approval, values the equity of the total business at €500 million, according to the UK-based personal care giant. Concern Kalina, with headquarters and manufacturing facilities in Ekaterinburg, sells its products primarily in Russia, Ukraine and Kazakhstan. It employs around 1,900 people. “We are delighted to be acquiring Concern Kalina. This will transform Unilever’s personal care business in Russia, giving us leading positions in skin care and hair care, as well as establishing a presence in oral care,” said Paul Polman, CEO of Unilever. “It will also strengthen and re-balance Unilever’s portfolio and competitive position in Russia, an emerging market with considerable potential and one of our priority countries.” The transaction fulﬁlls a number of key criteria for Unilever—it enhances Unilever’s presence in an attractive, high-growth market with a differentiated portfolio which has grown at above market rates in competitive 22 • happi

happi.com

care factories to increase Unilever’s capacity for growth and service increasing demand for beauty products and ice cream in Indonesia and in other parts of Asia and Africa. This investment is part of a €550 million, three-year investment program in the country. “Unilever, as the emerging markets consumer goods company, has set itself an ambitious goal—to double the size of our business whilst reducing our environmental impact. These new facilities will help us to continue to grow in Indonesia, an important market in which we have strong category positions across our portfolio, as we do across South East Asia,” said Pier Luigi Sigismondi, Unilever’s chief supply chain officer.“These markets contribute significantly to the 54% that Unilever currently generates from emerging markets, a figure we expect to rise substantially over the next 10 years. We are excited by the enormous possibilities these markets offer and more investments will undoubtedly follow.” The new facilities were ofﬁcially unveiled at an opening ceremony by Bapak Hatta Rajasa, coordinating minister for economic affairs, in front of distinguished guests and the Unilever board of directors.

M.A.C Cosmetics Supports Emerging Designers • FRANCE: M.A.C Cosmetics has been named the exclusive cosmetics partner of 'En Avant Première, which aims to help emerging brands listed in the Haute Couture, Ready-to-Wear and Menswear ofﬁcial calendars. Created by the Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode, the initiative gives the designers’ collections more visibility to the press and buyers on the Mode a Paris website, showcasing the new collections at the time of delivery to the shops. November 2011

International

Designers supported by M.A.C during the Spring Summer 2012 Paris Fashion Week shows include Alexis Mabille, Anthony Vaccarello, Damir Doma, Dévastée, Nicolas Andreas Taralis, AnneValérie Hash, GaspardYurkievich and Stefﬁe Christiaens. More info: www.maccosmetics.fr

CPL Celebrates Milestone, Raises Funds for Charity • UNITED KINGDOM: Barrington Hall was the venue for the CPL Aromas charity ball, which celebrated the company’s 40th anniversary while raising money for CAFOD, which works in 40 countries to reduce poverty and injustice. More than 200 guests enjoyed a gala evening on Sept. 9 at the grounds of CPL’s head ofﬁce in the Hertfordshire countryside, which was styled in a Venetian theme. In attendance were customers, agents and other partners from more than 20 countries who were treated to an evening of entertainment that included a champagne reception, sumptuous meal, music and dancing well into the night. Guests also experienced a spectacular ﬁreworks display in the grounds of Barrington Hall. The evening included a charity casino, rafﬂe and auction that helped to raise £11,000 for CAFOD. A specially designed limited edition candle was produced as a commemorative souvenir of the evening. The Venetian styled packaging contains a sensationally innovative and luxurious fragrance containing cardamom, coriander, ginger, lavender, nutmeg and vetiver oils. Jochnick Foundation Increases Stake in Oriflame •

SWEDEN: The Stichting af Jochnick Foundation has acquired 211,000 shares in Oriﬂame Cosmetics S.A., bringing its holding to approximately 11.1% of the votes and capital. The Stichting af Jochnick Foundation, based in The Netherlands, was established in 2004 by the af Jochnick family after establishing Oriﬂame Cosmetics. The Foundation, which contributes to the greater good by supporting projects that focus on children, youth, education and world 24 • happi

health, was funded with an initial endowment of more than 4 million shares in Oriﬂame Cosmetics.

Beiersdorf, Plan International Boost Guatemalan Education • GUATEMALA: Nivea and Plan International have launched a project in Guatemala to provide children with a better future through education. In the new Nivea 100 Plan project, which is being set up in Guatemala to mark Nivea’s centenary year, 4,800 children at 40 schools will beneﬁt from this added support in the AltaVerapaz region. A special edition of the Nivea Crème tin, themed with Nivea’s partnership with Plan, which rolled out in October, supports the project. For each anniversary edition tin purchased, 15 cents goes directly to children in Guatemala. The brand has also launched an interactive charity promotion on Facebook that enables users to support the Guatemala project by clicking on one of the three virtual Nivea Plan Crème tins in different designs, adding a personalized greeting and sending it to a friend. For every tin that is sent, Nivea will donate another 10 cents. Project funding up to a maximum of €500,000 will be provided, the company said.

AmorePacific Signs Accord with Anterogen •

JAPAN: AmorePaciﬁc’s R&D Center Medical Beauty Institute has signed a memorandum of understanding with Anterogen to research and develop cosmeceutical products utilizing stem cell-conditioned media. According to the memorandum, which was signed Sept. 9, both parties will kick off the joint-research on cosmeceutical products associating the most advanced technology on conditioned media of adipose-derived stem cells from Anterogen with dermatological knowledge of AmorePaciﬁc R&D Center. With this memorandum, AmorePaciﬁc says it will take decisive action to step up development of cosmeceutical products for dermatological procedures using condihappi.com

tioned media of adipose-derived stem cells.

ANIPS Holds Assembly At Avéne Hydrotherapy Center • FRANCE: The French National Association of Ichthyosis and Dry Skin (ANIPS) recently celebrated its 20th anniversary by holding its general assembly at the Avène Hydrotherapy Centre in France. For 20 years, ANIPS’ mission has been to help patients and their families feel less isolated, inform them about the disease and available medical care, put them in touch with dermatological specialists, raise awareness of ichthyosis and raise money for research about the disease.

Amway Opens Store in Istanbul • TURKEY: Amway has opened its ﬁrst store in Istanbul. The company store is the fourth biggest of its kind in Europe, after the Vienna, Munich and London facilities. The new shop gives Amway the opportunity to sell its products in a physical location in the city, rather than directly selling its wares. According to Tayfun Ergün, Amway Turkey general manager, sales in the country hit $73 million in 2010. Naturex Provides Funding To School in Casablanca • MOROCCO: This summer, the primary school Mata Nouaceur in Casablanca opened its doors to the sponsors of the association EMA (Enfance Maghreb Avenir). The governor of the Nouaceur Prefecture, the director of the Casablanca Academy, and Jacques Dikansky, president of the Naturex Foundation took part in the celebration. The financial support of the Naturex Foundation improved the space. However, EMA’s renovation of the school premises is only the beginning. This year, a number of other projects will be completed, including the restoration of classrooms and improvement of green spaces. Additionally, some of classrooms will be equipped with computers. More info: www.naturex.com • November 2011

Mibelle AG Biochemistry, 5033 Buchs/Switzerland, Phone +41 (0)62 836 17 31

PoreAway Effective, matifying skin refiner PoreAway is based on a premium extract of Mastic, a plant resin that is known for its anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory and astringent properties. Mastic is endemic to the Greek island of Chios and exclusively obtained from the Pistacia lentiscus tree. A smart vector system enables it to use Mastic for the very first time in a convenient preparation for cosmetic applications. • Visibly reduces the appearance of pores • Manages imperfections effectively • Keeps skin clear and refined

PoreAway resulted in a significant reduction of pore size and a rapid elimination of skin impurities – ensuring a smooth matt finish.

www.mibellebiochemistry.com

Distributed in the USA by: www.tri-k.com

Marketing News

P&G TAPS THANDIE NEWTON FOR OLAY TOTAL EFFECTS IN NORTH AMERICA ship, as well as a $500 spa day certificate for their mother or mother figure. To kick off the program, Clorox held special“Take a Load Off” events with Spanish singer Shaila Durcal, which were held in October at local laundrymats in Miami and Los Angeles. Families were invited to take the day off from their laundry routines and enjoy music, entertainment and food. Durcal, daughter of worldfamous Spanish singer Rocio Durcal, performed while the Clorox team washed and dried people’s clothes for free. According to Colleen Schweichler, marketing manager, Clorox laundry division, it is“important for Clorox to honor the legacy that moms create with their children and celebrate that behind every child’s achievement, be it academic or otherwise, there is a mother who encouraged them along the way.”

Thandie Newton is the new face of Olay Total Effects.

• BioLab, Inc., the maker of Greased Lightning brand clean• Olay has named Thandie Newton as the new face of Total Effects in North America.The actress, best known for her role in films such as“Crash”and“Mission: Impossible II,”as well as the upcoming London-based play “Death and the Maiden,”doesn’t just have acting on her plate. She is also a mother to two kids, which is why she is now encouraging women to demand more from their daily anti-aging moisturizers with a multi-purpose cream that will help achieve glowing, youthful looking skin in just one easy-to-use step. “As an actress and busy mother of two, it’s important for Thandie to keep her skin bright, beautiful, and healthy-looking on and off the big screen without a complicated regimen, which is why she is a perfect fit for Olay,“ said Joe Arcuri,VP, North America female beauty, Procter & Gamble.

•

TCCD International—manufacturer and distributor of Naturally Fresh Deodorant Crystal—named Dr. Melanie Bone of South Florida as its official spokesperson.The gynecologic surgeon has more than 20 years experience in her field and is also a breast cancer survivor. As an official spokesperson, she will answer consumers’ questions, provide insightful videos and be available for interviews, according to the company. More info: www.naturallyfreshdeodorantcrystal.com

• In recognition of mothers and their role in their children’s academic success, Clorox bleach, in partnership with the Hispanic Scholarship Fund (HSF), has launched the Gracias Mama scholarship. From Oct. 8, 2011 through Jan. 17, 2012, high school seniors planning to attend an accredited US university during the 2012-2013 school year can apply for one of five $12,000 scholarships. Five winning students will each receive one $12,000 scholar26 • happi

ing products, has tapped selected FKM as its full-service agency of record. FKM was awarded advertising, media and public relations responsibilities and has begun marketing and communication planning for 2012. Atlanta-area based BioLab produces and markets the Greased Lightning family of multi-purpose products nationwide, which includes super-strength cleaners and degreasers. The scope of work will focus heavily on the development of retailer programs and digital media, including website redevelopment, mobile site development, emerging technologies and social media.

•

Church & Dwight’s Arm & Hammer is tackling sinus congestion and allergies with the new Arm & Hammer Simply Saline Neti Pot Kit, which provides nasal irrigation that expels mucus and moisturizes irritated nasal passages.The kit boasts a variety of userfriendly features to make the process simpler and gentler, according to the company, which acquired the Simple Saline brand in 2010. For example, the formula is pH balanced with Arm & Hammer baking soda to help prevent stinging or discomfort commonly associated with saline irrigation and has a patent-pending, leak-proof design to help users avoid messy spills. Each kit contains 50 saline packets and refill packets are also available. For a limited time, Church & Dwight is offering consumers the kit for free through a promotion at key retailers and online at www.simArm & Hammer takes on plysaline.com. sinus issues.

happi.com

November 2011

Marketing News

• On Oct. 21, Lancôme invited customers to experience the “beauty of giving” by celebrating Genes Day, a one-day national event that the beauty brand began 2010 to support St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital. Lancôme planned to donate $7 from the sale of every bottle of Genifique Youth Activating Concentrate made at a Lancôme counter in the US or online at lancomeusa.com. In addition, those new to Genifique were able to stop by the counter during the month of October for a deluxe seven-day sample of the product.

A QUIZ ON SCJ’S WINDOW CLEANING WIZ • Windex has been declared as an “American ideal” in Fortune magazine’s 2011 “100 Greatest Things about America.” To celebrate the window cleaner’s 75th birthday, the firm is selling specially marked bottles of Windex marking the anniversary. In addition, Windex will commemorate the special moments in the lives of American families online, enlisting three moms to spark conversations and inspire new ideas through the brand’s Facebook page, Twitter and their own personal blogs. How well do you know Windex? Here’s a quick quiz. (SC Johnson readers, we expect 100% from you!)

• Neutrogena has successfully concluded its second annual

• Lush has selected the Demandware Commerce platform to power three new ecommerce storefronts in North America, including its U.S. English, Canadian English and Canadian French sites. The company is also working Demandware LINK partners,

November 2011

1. Windex was introduced during the Great Depression as a: a. Kitchen spray cleaner b. Laundry aide c. Automotive windshield cleaner 2. True or false: Windex was originally sold as a clear solution. 3. When did Windex Lemon make its debut? a. 1976 b. 1985 c. 2001 4. Windex played a supporting role in what popular 2002 movie? a. Minority Report b. Men in Black II c. My Big Fat Greek Wedding

(Answers: 1 c; 2 False--it was blue, as it is today; 3 b; 4 c--a character presents Windex as a solution to any problem, even a wedding day acne flare-up.)

Wave for Change Campaign, a charitable program that makes it easy for teens everywhere to give back, both in the US and other parts of the world. This year’s program generated a total of $258,000 that will be put to good use helping give kids an education, helping protect the environment and rebuilding lives. Neutrogena donated $1 to Global Giving for every Neutrogena Acne, Cleansing or Cosmetics product sold and registered during July and August at Neutrogena.com/waveforchange. This year, the three winning charities were: Arts for All: Art programs for 3,000 in-need New York children (Education), SALVEASERRA: Protect the Rainforest in Brazil (Environment) and the Greater New Orleans Foundation: Victims of the Tornadoes Fund (Disaster Relief). Neutrogena Wave for Change also announced that an additional donation will be made to Global Giving and split equally among the six runner-up causes as a token of appreciation for their participation and in honor of the inspiring work they undertake every day. These organizations are Junior Achievement of Southern California and School on Wheels (Education), Friends of the Columbia Gorge and TanzSolar (Environment) and Save the Children in Haiti and Living Dreams’Tohoku Kids Project in Japan (Disaster Relief).

Gigya and PowerReviews to create a great community site experience, and will leverage the pre-built integration available through the Demandware LINK Marketplace.

happi.com

happi • 27

Marketing News

• DermStore.com, which opened in 1999, has added its 600th brand, making it the largest authorized seller of skin care and beauty products online. The website has recently added Butter London, Essie, Jurlique, Weleda, Japonesque, Farmhouse

Fresh, Andis, Serge Normant, Dr. Jart, Zodiac Baby and Ahava. Some of its most popular lines include Dermalogica, SkinCeuticals, Egyptian Magic, Obagi, Jane Iredale, Sonya Dakar, Phytomer, Glytone and Kinerase.

Your Product Idea. Created by Us. Developed for Her.

“Reaching 600 brands is a milestone for DermStore—we now have the largest selection of any authorized beauty etailer, and can provide shoppers with virtually any item they’re searching for,”said Dan Obegi, DermStore’s CEO.“For many years we have been known for our impressive array of skin care brands and for specializing in serious skin care. In recent years, though, we’ve placed a heightened focus on expanding our site to offer our customers an even wider selection of products, ranging from physicianstrength formulas and fun color cosmetics, to hair care products and hard-to-find niche favorites.”

•

Old Spice has rolled out “Smell Better Than Yourself,” an advertising campaign centered around the Old Spice Red Zone product lineup of deodorant, body spray, and body wash. The campaign takes a humorous look at how the scents of Old Spice can turn average guys into the manliest of

Personal Care Contract Manufacturer offering Custom and Private Label Formulations. Small to Large Flexible Production and Filling &DSDELOLWLHV 6SHHG WR 0DUNHW ([SHUWV &XVWRPHU 6HUYLFH 3URPLQHQW 5HVHDUFK DQG 'HYHORSPHQW &KHPLVWV ,QJUHGLHQW DQG 'HYHORSPHQW *XLGDQFH *OREDO ([SRUWLQJ DQG ,PSRUWLQJ 6XSSRUW 27& DQG &RVPHFHXWLFDOV 3DUDEHQ 3KWKDODWH DQG 6XOIDWH )UHH 1DWXUDO 2UJDQLF &KLUDOO\ &RUUHFW 1R $QLPDO 7HVWLQJ 3DWHQWHG ,QJUHGLHQW 7HFKQRORJLHV (VWDEOLVKHG DQG 6WURQJ &RPSDQ\ )RXQGDWLRQ since 1989

Old Spice’s new “Smell Better Than Yourself” )'$ 5HJLVWHUHG DQG F*03 )DFLOLW\ 6 %HQVRQ /DQH &KDQGOHU $= +1

campaign.

men.The campaign features two 30-second and two 15-second television commercials, along with a print campaign. It also features two new Old Spice personas, adding to the brand’s cast of characters who have ap-

www.CoValence.com

28 • happi

happi.com

November 2011

Marketing News

Does Makeup Alter Perception?

amined the role that applied beauty or features of the extended human • A new study from P&G Beauty & Grooming and lead investigator Nancy phenotype, such as makeup and hair color, play in perception of beauty, Etcoff, PhD., assistant clinical professor at Harvard University and assopersonality and character at first glance and longer inspection,” said ciate researcher at Massachusetts General Hospital Department of PsyNancy Etcoff, PhD. “For the first time, we have found that applying chiatry, confirms for the first time that using color cosmetics does in fact makeup has an effect beyond increasing attractiveness–it impacts first significantly alter how women are perceived by others, even at very first impressions and overall judgments of perceived likeability, trustworthiglance. Results of the study, published on Oct. 3 in PLoS ONE, show that ness, and competence. In today’s world of self-portraits appearing on makeup application specifically impacts judgments of attractiveness and networking and dating websites, ballots, resumes and applications, the character when viewed rapidly or for unlimited amounts of time. results of the study have broad implications.” Researchers conducted two studies in which 100 photos of 25 Sarah Vickery, PhD, principal scientist, R&D Color Cosmetics, P&G women’s faces were judged without makeup and with three different apBeauty & Grooming, said the data’s implications also suggest makeup plied makeup looks that included varying levels of luminous contrast (difcan give women the power to determine which aspects of their personferent levels of light to dark makeup shades). The looks were informally ality they want communicated to others. classified as “natural,” “professional” and “glamorous.” “This study examined the impact of relevant makeup looks that When viewed for 250 milliseconds, all three makeup looks increased women in the western world commonly wear, showing that makeup ratings of attractiveness, competence, likability and trust compared to is a real-life tool in their arsenal to effectively control the way they the ratings of the same faces without makeup. Further, participants in want to be—and are—perceived,” said Dr. Vickery. “Makers of color the second study who had unlimited time to inspect the faces gave both cosmetics and other beauty products can take these findings into the natural and professional makeup looks inconsideration to further develop sciencecreased ratings of attractiveness, competence, based solutions that empower women to likability and trust. The glamorous look, which display different aspects of their personalihad the highest luminous contrast, was judged ties and to really take charge of the way othto be equally likeable, less trustworthy and sigers see them.” nificantly more attractive and competent than “Collaborating with global academic and the faces without makeup. The reverse connoindustry experts has allowed P&G Beauty & tations associated with this look demonstrate Grooming scientists to transform cuttingthat makeup impacts both automatic, instincedge color science into solutions for skin, tual responses and conscious, deliberative cosmetic and hair color products,” said judgments, causing people to make impresShekhar Mitra, SVP, P&G Global Beauty & sions based on the visual alterations caused by Grooming Research & Development. “This cosmetics and their conscious ideas about fundamental research helps us better undermakeup users and looks. stand the motivations and desired beauty out“Researchers have studied first impressions comes of our consumers and how to translate of innate facial characteristics, such as facial sym- P&G has studied the link between the use of that knowledge into innovations that have a metry, but until now, no research has rigorously ex- color cosmetics and perception. proven impact on perception.”

November 2011

happi.com

happi • 29

Marketing News

peared in Old Spice’s advertising throughout the years.

• Rockin’ Green Laundry Detergent has rolled out Melody odor neutralizer and air freshener room spray and Groupies ecofriendly dryer balls. Designed to get the stink out of any item or room, Melody comes in all six Rockin’ Green scents, including Smashing Watermelons, Earth Wind & Orchids and Lavender Mint Revival. Rockin’Green’s dryer balls, are made using natural materials, such as reclaimed potato starch, and are designed to cut dry-

ing time in half and eliminate the repeated waste that comes with using dryer sheets. ”Rockin’ Green is committed to creating products that help make the laundry process easier and more eco-friendly. Our newest editions, Melody and Groupies, are no different in that they make the cleaning process more enjoyable, greener and more fun, at least I think so,”said Kimberly Webb, CEO/founder of Rockin’ Green. More info: www.RockinGreenSoap.com

• After photos, videos and brief essays from hundreds of fans poured in, Obagi has found the winners of its brand ambassador contest. The winners are: Marla Fyke (Newnan, GA), Deborah Pakzaban (Houston, TX), Donna Dickey (Fayetteville, TN), Jacqueline Horton (Natchitoches, LA), Elizabeth Rogers (Thomasville, NC) and Heather Lambert (Eden Prairie, MN). Each will receive $2,000 worth of Obagi products and $1,000 for the charity of their choice. • Tom’s of Maine has announced the six winning nonproﬁts Rockin’ Green has added dryer balls.

that will share $150,000 in funding as part of its third annual“50 States for Good” program. The winning grassroots projects, as voted on by the public, range from reforestation initiatives and

Some people would go to the ends of the earth for silkier, shinier hair.

At Lipo®, we call them scientists . ®

Natural , found i exotic ingredie n t nts corners he far-reachin g of the earth.

Nobody knows where the next big ingredient is going to come from. But at Lipo, we never stop looking for it. So along with formulating technologies and platforms that help companies use it, our scientists go to great lengths—and depths—to find the next big idea in skincare, haircare and color cosmetics. After all, beauty may be only skin deep, but at Lipo we dare to look beneath the surface.

BEAUTY IS OUR SCIENCE® www.lipochemicals.com

Marketing News

an environmental dance program to free dental care and a friendship network. All demonstrate the impact smaller-sized nonprofit organizations can make in our communities, according to Tom’s. This year’s winning organizations are: $50,000 Grand Prize Winner—Galveston Island Tree Conservancy (Galveston, TX) and $20,000 Winners—Alamance County Meals on Wheels: Fresh Food to Seniors (Burlington, NC), SpectorDance (Marina, CA), Western Maryland Area Health Education Center (Cumberland, MD), Philly Friendship Circle: Friends for a Caring World (Philadelphia, PA) and The Lands Council: Reforest Spokane Day (Spokane, WA). All qualifying 501(c)3 nonprofits were encouraged to apply for the program. Applicants were narrowed down to 20 finalists by a panel of judges based on the organization’s use of community volunteers, project achievability and positive impact on the community. Judges included Christie Garton, USA Today’s Kindness blogger, Beth Kanter, co-author of“Networked Nonprofit” and co-founder of Zoetica, and Sam Davidson, founder of Cool People Care. A six-week online vote began in August to determine the six winning organizations.

They all use it, but nobody likes to clean the bathroom, according to Jelmar.

• Febreze partnered with Macaroni Kid to participate in National Costume Swap Day events. Throughout October, the P&G brand was on site at 25 participating Macaroni Kid events, freshening gently used costumes for kids across the country. Participants received a free Febreze product sample to take home with them. Macaroni Kid is a free weekly newsletter and website that delivers news on kid- and family-friendly events going on in towns and cities across the country. Macaroni Kid currently serves 390 local communities nationwide. More info: national.macaronikid.com

• Parents and children rarely agree, but they do seem to agree on which chores they both want to avoid at all costs. Jelmar, maker of CLR cleaning products, recently conducted a national Chore Wars survey that identified the top five most-hated chores for par-

November 2011

ents and kids. Cleaning the bathroom and washing dishes are most loathed activities. Here’s a look at each group’s most hated chores: For Parents: • Cleaning the bathroom • Washing the dishes • Doing laundry • Cleaning the kitchen For Kids: • Cleaning the bathroom • Washing the dishes • Taking out the garbage • Doing laundry More info: www.clrchorewars.com •

happi.com

happi • 31

Regulations

FORMALDEHYDE IS UNSAFE IN HAIR STRAIGHTENERS • At its 120th meeting in Washington, DC in September, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (CIR) reached its final conclusion on the safety of formaldehyde and methylene glycol as used in hair straightening products and found them to be unsafe under present conditions of use. CIR, an independent, non-profit body of scientific and medical experts that assesses the safety of ingredients used in cosmetics in the US, initiated the review at the request of the Food and Drug Administration, the Professional Beauty Association and the Personal Care Products Council (the Council). The panel noted that the safety of methylene glycol and formaldehyde in hair straightening products depends on a number of factors, including the concentration of formaldehyde and methylene glycol, the amount of product applied, the temperature used during the application process, and the ventilation provided at the point of use. The panel concluded that under present practices of use and concentration, formaldehyde and methylene glycol are unsafe in hair straightening products. “CIR reached its conclusion after a comprehensive review of the available safety data and information and a robust discussion of this difficult and complex issue. We support the panel’s findings,” said Jay Ansell, Council scientist and vice president of cosmetic programs.

Candle Recalls For Dollar Tree, Katie Brown The US Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), in cooperation with retailer Dollar Tree Stores Inc., Chesapeake, VA, and importer Greenbrier International Inc., Chesapeake, VA, have voluntarily recalled approximately 117,000 glass votive candleholders. According to the CPSC, the glass votive candleholders can shatter while in use, posing a fire and laceration hazard to consumers. The firm has received one report of the glass votive candleholder shattering. No injuries have been reported. This recall involves frosted or clear glass votive candleholders with French vanilla scented candles. The votive candleholders are 2 1/2 inches tall. Model number 976127 and date code 1010 are printed on the bottom of the glass votive candleholder. The SKUs were sold at Dollar Tree, Dollar Bill$, Deal$ and Dollar Tree Deal$ stores nationwide from December 2010 through April 2011. They were manufactured in India. The US Consumer Product Safety Commission also announced a voluntary recall of Katie Brown 12-piece tea light candle sets from Meijer Inc., of Grand Rapids, MI. Approximately 7,600 units are involved in the recall. The clear plastic candleholder can ignite, posing a serious burn and fire hazard to consumers. Meijer has received one report of the resin 32 • happi

The panel also concluded that formaldehyde and methylene glycol are safe for use as preservatives in cosmetics at minimal effective concentration levels and that they do not exceed established limits and are safe in nail hardening products in the present practices of use and concentration. More info: www.cir-safety.org

NSF International Expands Standards • NSF International’s American National Standard for Personal Care Products Containing Organic Ingredients (NSF/ANSI 305) has been expanded to allow plant-based ingredients that are certified to European Union (EU) organic regulations. As a result, companies formulating personal care products for compliance with the NSF/ANSI 305 Personal Care Products Containing Organic Ingredients standard are now able to source from both US National Organic Program (NOP)-certified ingredients and EU-certified ingredients suppliers. The NSF/ANSI 305 standard promotes the widespread use of organic agriculture beyond the food sector. Similar to USDA NOP regulations, the NSF/ANSI 305 standard defines labeling and marketing requirements but specifically for personal care products (e.g. oral care and personal hygiene products) that contain organic ingredients. It also establishes requirements for

cup catching fire and melting. No injuries or property damage have been reported. The recalled wax tea light candles in clear plastic holders were sold in five different colors/ Dollar Tree Stores recalled about 117,000 scents: vanilla, spruce, glass votive candle holders. snappy spice, sunny tuscany and sweet love. Model numbers are 50181MKB, 50182MKB, 50183MKB, 50184MKB and 50185MKB printed on the bottom of the tea light holder. The wax tea light candles measure approximately 2 inches in diameter. The Katie Brown logo is printed on the clear packaging cover of the tea lights. Printed on a label on the bottom of each 12-piece pack of tea light candles is "Distributed by Wholesale Merchandisers, Inc. 2929 Walker Ave NW, Grand Rapids, MI 49544. Made in India." The products were sold exclusively at Meijer Stores in Michigan, Ohio, Kentucky, Illinois and Indiana from October 2010 through March 2011 for approximately $8. More info: www.dollartree.com, www.meijer.com

happi.com

November 2011

Regulations

agricultural ingredients and methods of extraction based on the final product’s label claim. EU organic regulations EC 834/2007 & EC 889/2008 define requirements on organic production and labeling of organic products. NSF/ANSI 305 is the only consensus-based standard for personal care products containing organic ingredients. The American National Standard was developed based on balanced participation from key stakeholder groups including: regulators, personal care manufacturers, trade associations, product retailers and other stakeholders from the organic and personal care products communities. “NSF/ANSI 305 opens up new growth opportunities for personal care companies whose products contain organic ingredients and speaks to the globalization of the cosmetic supply chain. Allowing equivalent EU-certified ingredients will harmonize NSF/ANSI 305 with global organic production without any loss of organic integrity,”said Jane Wilson, standards director of NSF International, a US standards development, testing and certification organization committed to protecting the environment and public health. With the increasing interest of global harmonization, companies certified to other international standards, such as the NaTrue European standard, will move closer to complying with NSF/ANSI 305. Companies which certify their products to the NSF standard demonstrate to consumers, retailers, health care practitioners and regulators that certified products have been independently evaluated to meet the standard requirements. The NSF/ANSI 305 personal care logo identifies personal care products that have achieved certification to the standard. Aiming to provide a standardized way to define and report the environmental and human health hazards associated with a chemical product and its manufacturing process impacts, NSF and the American Chemical Society Green Chemistry Institute (ACS GCI) also recently developed an American National Standard, NSF/GCI/ANSI (American National Standards Institute) 355 Greener Chemicals and Processes Information Standard. More info: www.nsf.org

“California is expected to have 8,250 new cases of melanoma in 2011, or approximately 12% of the estimated 70,000 cases nationwide,” said dermatologist Ann F. Haas, MD, FAAD, past president of the California Society of Dermatology and Dermatologic Surgery. “Melanoma incidence rates have been increasing for the last 30 years, but have been growing most rapidly—3% per year—since 1992 among young women ages 15 to 39. We encourage other states to follow California’s lead and help slow the incidence of potentially deadly skin cancer by prohibiting the use of commercial tanning devices by minors,”added Haas. SB 746 replaces the current law, which requires 14-17 year olds to obtain parental permission to use a tanning bed. Currently, children under 14 are prohibited from using tanning beds. The new bill will take effect Jan. 1, 2012. More info: www.calderm.org

California Bans Tanning Beds for Teens

The Council Relaunches Its Online Bookstore

•

California Governor Jerry Brown recently signed Senate Bill 746, which prohibits minors from using tanning beds.The legislation makes California the first state in the US to have such a ban on the practice for those under the age of 18. Studies show that exposure to UV radiation from artificial tanning devices is associated with a 75% increased risk of melanoma, the deadliest form of skin cancer, and non-melanoma skin cancer, such as squamous cell carcinoma and basal cell carcinoma, according to a statement by the Governor’s office. Nearly 30 million people in the US, including 2.3 million teens, use tanning booths annually despite warnings from public health agencies about their potential to cause skin cancer. 34 • happi

ACI Adds Ferrer, Ugur As Its Latest Industry Experts • The American Cleaning Institute (ACI) added depth to its scientific and information technology expertise with two new appointments: Darci Ferrer as science program coordinator and Ugur Usumi as director, information technology. Ferrer joins ACI from Loyola University, Baltimore, MD, where she was a laboratory technician in the biology department. She recently completed a Master of Science degree in environmental science and policy from Johns Hopkins University. Usumi brings a wealth of experience and knowledge to ACI as director of information technology, as he will provide expertise to support the association’s new website, membership database and other computer and information services. He previously served as director of information technologies for AMIDEAST, INC., an international non-profit organization providing educational and training services and scholarship programs; and vice president at IMEX/OMNI Intl., a company that developed financial software for custom manufacturers. More info: www.cleaninginstitute.org

• The

Council recently launched a new revamped online bookstore. The new interface allows users to purchase Council publications online and also features a number of PDF publications available for immediate download once the purchase is completed. Titles include: • Compilation of Ingredients Used in Cosmetics in the United States; • International Buyers’Guide; • Guideline for Industry: The Stability Testing of Cosmetic Products; • Quality Metrics Benchmark Survey. More info: www.personalcare.org •

happi.com

November 2011

Gleams & Notions

ANOTHER NATURAL PRESERVATIVE AND MUCH MORE IN THE NEWS

I

for my semi-annual review of various newspaper articles relating to the cosmetic industry. The first item is about a possible new preservative to prevent bacterial contamination—oil from coriander seeds. This spice, widely used in Asian, Latin American and Mediterranean cooking, is called cilantro when fresh leaves of the plant are used. For years, researchers have suggested that the oil can act as an antibacterial agent, but it was a recent study, published in The Journal of Medical Microbiology, that describes how it works. It was found that coriander oil damages the membrane of bacterial cells. This blocks the cell from essential processes like respiration, and ultimately leads to the organism’s death. The researchers tested the effect of coriander oil on 12 different bacterial strains, including E. coli, salmonella and methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA). Most of the bacteria were killed by solutions containing less than 1.6% of the oil. With further testing, this oil might one day be widely used as a food or cosmetic preservative. T IS TIME

Harvey M. Fishman Consultant Harvey Fishman has a consulting

Not So Smart Two companies fromTexas claimed that their smart phones could cure acne.They advised their customers to hold the display screen next to the area of the skin to be treated for a few minutes while the app was activated. Called“AcneApp”and“Acne Pwner,”these apps claimed to be able to cure your acne by using blue and red light therapy. AcnePwner, which was on sale for $0.99 on the Android Market was downloaded approximately 3,300 times. AcneApp was on sale at the Apple App Store for $1.99 and had approximately 11,600 downloads. The Federal Trade Commission disagreed with the wild claims and the two companies agreed to stop making claims and agreed to pay fines—AcnePwner’s developer paid $1,700 and AcneApp’s developer paid $14,294.The cases are the first that the FTC has filed targeting health claims in the mobile app marketplace. The makers of Clearasil probably breathed a sigh of relief. In another skin care revolution, an Associated Press article highlighted a natural product that is being used as a skin scrub or exfoliant—it’s called salt. Ahava, a beauty company from Israel, gets its salt from the Dead Sea, which also contains minerals such as magnesium, calcium, sodium and potassium, which are believed to be soothing and relaxing. A finer grade of salt will polish, not scratch the skin. Allure published a home recipe for a salt scrub as follows: • 1 cup almond, sesame, olive or vegetable oil • 1 cup kosher, table, or Epsom salt. Heat oil in microwave oven for 45 seconds. Add salt until a paste is formed.

lashes, arms and head, was completely bald. This autoimmune disease, called alopecia areata, causes the body to attack its own hair follicles. It affects nearly 2% of the global population and has no universally effective treatment. Sometimes the hair regrows, sometimes it does not, and sometimes the regrowth falls out years later. Researchers at Columbia University found eight genes that are involved in the mechanisms of this strange disease. One of them acts like a beacon for the body’s killer immune cells. In people with alopecia areta, this gene is over abundant in hair follicles, leading to rapid hair loss. On a related note, skin product sales to men now top $200 million a year, according to Time. Of course, not every man—particularly a fighting man—is into makeup.That’s why Michele Probst, founder of Menaji Cosmetics, ships her products to soldiers in packages that are disguised to look more like cigar boxes than compact cases. It’s all part of her strategy to appeal directly to men and that means never referring to products as makeup. “The M word is cancer to us,”Probst told Time.“We are skin care that looks good.”•

They may be smart phones, but they can’t cure acne!

firm located at 34 Chicasaw Drive, Oakland, NJ 07436, [email protected], specializing in cosmetic formulations and new product ideas, offering tested finished products. He has more than 30 years of experience and has been director of research at Bonat, Nestlé LeMur and Turner Hall. He welcomes descriptive literature from suppliers and bench chemists and others in the field.

36 • happi

The Guys Have It The NewYork Times described a man who was 38 when he first noticed a round, hairless spot in his beard. Within six weeks, every inch of his body that once had hair, including his eyebrows, eyehappi.com

November 2011

Discover Bodylicious Hair, Discover Dimethisil HNH.

“Bodylicious” is that “look” that Dimethisil® HNH creates when easily formulated into clear shampoos and conditioners. This unique, anionic friendly, cationic silicone fluid revives hairs natural body, volume and softness. Dimethisil® HNH, INCI: Proproxytetramethyl Piperdinyl Dimethicone, is available in various viscosities and cationic strengths. When used at low levels in shampoo formulations, discover hair’s rejuvenated natural beauty. Dimethisil ® HNH is also available as a 30% solids, clear, silicone in water micro-emulsion under the Microsil® HAF trade name. Let Chemsil Silicones, Inc. transform your shampoo into something extraordinary, something “Bodylicious”. Discover Dimethisil® HNH and Microsil® HAF and experience formulating beauty. We Provide YOUR “Beautifying” Silicone Solutions.

We Provide YOUR Silicone Solutions™

Manufacturer of Specialty Silicones for Cosmetics and Personal Care 877.700.0302 • www.chemsil.com

EuroTrends

EUROPEANS PAINT THE TOWN RED AS COLOR COSMETIC SALES RISE entry in the French market from professional nail polish brand Essie (L’Oréal), with an extensive new retail line in Monoprix stores exclusively for six months before launching widely in hypermarkets and supermarkets from April 2012. The line, which consists of 90 nail polish shades, 10 nail care products and four topcoats, has been especially formulated for the retail launch to make them easier and quicker to apply, being thicker than the professional line while the brushes are wider to cover the nail in a single stroke.

German Growth

I

T HAS BEEN a bright past year for the color cosmetics market in the Big 5 as all countries, apart from Spain, made gains in value terms. In the case of France

and Germany, the increases were particularly impressive, demonstrating that there is a secure future for the category as long as this trend continues.

Facing Facts

Katie Middleweek Editor, European Cosmetic Markets European Cosmetic Markets is published monthly by HPCi Media Limited. It provides in-depth data and analysis of the European cosmetics and toiletries market. For subscription details contact HPCi Media Limited, Tel: (44) 0207 193 7447 • Fax: (44) 20 7549 8622

38 • happi

According to figures from SymphonyIRI France, French color cosmetics market sales rose 3.6% in the past year to total nearly $622 million and in volume terms the market increased 2.8% to exceed 50 million units. Facial makeup is the most popular sub-sector in France followed by eyes, nails and lips, in that order. Facial color cosmetic sales grew by a robust 4.6% during the past year but eye product sales slipped by 0.8%, which is something worth keeping an eye on. Nail care has also been a big growth area in France. Competition in the sector is fierce, and last month saw a major new happi.com

The German color cosmetics market has been particularly buoyant of late, according to SymphonyIRI Germany. In the first six months of 2011, sales rose 5.4% to $524 million. The most popular sub-sector was eye products, followed by face, lips and nails in that order. All subsectors also made healthy gains apart from facial care cosmetics, which declined 0.8%. German naturals brand Babor, usually better known for its spa and skin care products, is making real strides with its color cosmetics collections and the autumn/winter offering was a particular highlight. Two standout products were the Super Style Mascara and the Mineral Powder Foundation. Super Style Mascara promises volume and length.The increase in volume is attributed to flexible polymers in the formula that cling to lashes, almost like mini eyelash extensions, according to the brand. Mineral Powder Foundation, meanwhile, is a loose powder product that offers November 2011

Kiss

Technology

Lipsticks & Glosses Explore the science behind intelligent formulating with Croda’s Kiss Technology Guide for lipsticks and lip glosses.

Embrace the challenge of formulating high performance lipsticks and lip glosses with the help of Croda’s Kiss Technology Guide.

Take an in depth look at the science influencing key performance attributes and sensory benefits. Make informed formulating decisions, make the right choice with Croda.

Europe, Middle East & Africa email:[email protected] www.croda.com/europe/pc North America email:[email protected] www.croda.com/na/pc Latin America email:[email protected] www.croda.com/la/pc Asia Pacific email:[email protected] www.croda.com/asia

Innovation you can build on

TM

Request your copy today.

EuroTrends

the same coverage as a foundation, but gives a light, dewy finish at the same time. The powder is made up of 99% minerals to give the skin a light shimmer and the formula is free from waxes, perfumes and artificial colorants.

Eyeing the Market In Italy, color cosmetics sales rose 2.7% last year to nearly $1.5 billion, according to trade body Unipro. Color cosmetics are the third largest sector in the Italian cosmetics and toiletries market. Eye products, in particular, contributed to this growth, putting on an impressive 29.6% to total $240 million, but sales of lip products slid 9.8% to $90 million. Mascaras were also a focus in Italy when it came to NPD and much emphasis was put on both wand design and formulation with mineral and organic ingredients coming to the fore a lot more. Collistar’s LashPlump Complex incorporates bamboo extracts, which adhere to the lashes, giving them a thicker, more voluminous appearance. This product has been popular with consumers probably also because it comes from a home-grown company, as the Italians are very loyal to domestic companies when choosing their color wares—Deborah and Pupa are two other good examples here.

Own Label Importance Things were less bright in Spain, as the overall market fell 0.5% to $665 million in the past year in value sales, according to figures from Babor’s Super Style Mascara is adding volume to category sales in Germany.

40 • happi

SymphonyIRI Spain. However, volume rose 4% to 64 million units. Cheaper own label products continued to grow in prominence in Spain and during the same period own label products put on 8% in value terms to make up $95.6 million of the overall color cosmetics total. Despite this, luxury brands were also selling well in Spain and LVMH-owned Guerlain has introduced a new product to its Lingerie de Peau range. The makeup is supposed to be imperceptible for a nude skin look and the firm has recently added a Fond de Teint & Correcteur to cover imperfections in the face and give it a youthful freshness. The product is available in eight varieties to suit both light and darker skin types. Also new in terms of products for the face, Laboratorios Nuxe has revamped its Teint Eclat Prodigieux in order to create a natural look for skin. The range is made from natural vegetable and mineral ingredients and starts with a foundation that is available in three different shades to suit the skin tone. To complement the foundation, Nuxe has also added a powder to cover up wrinkles and soften shiny areas of the skin.

Blemish Free According to Kantar Worldpanel, the UK color cosmetics market grew by a small but encouraging 1.7% to exceed $1.2 billion in the past year. Volume sales fared worse, falling 3.8% to about 158 million units for the same period. Facial color cosmetics remains the largest sub-sector in the UK, accounting for 35.2% of all sales and things are still moving in the right direction as this sub-sector also grew by 1.8% in 2010. In terms of NPD, the facial cosmetics sector saw considerable influence from Asia with the introduction of BB (blemish balm) creams from both the mass and premium brands. French beauty brand Une (Chanel) launched a natural version of the South Korean phenomenon onto the UK market this year. Intuitive Touch BB-Cream Founhappi.com

Une’s Intuitive Touch BB-cream foundation provides a natural finish to skin.

dation promises to smooth, correct, moisturize, balance, nourish, protect and enhance radiance, leaving a natural looking, “no makeup”finish. The formula, which is said to be 100% natural, contains a blend of carnauba and beeswax, jojoba seed oil, vitamin E, shea butter, maca root, rice powder and natural pigments and is talcfree. The compact foundation can be applied using the integral brush to lighten and conceal small areas or with a kabuki brush for fuller coverage. Seven shades are available as well as a refill, which is claimed to reduce environmental impact by as much as 70%. The Big 5 European countries have had much to be thankful for in terms of color cosmetics and there has been real innovation in the category as a whole during the past year. Color cosmetics is always an area consumers get excited about, as they are eager to try new products, shades and textures. Manufacturers just need to keep up with the insatiable demand for all things colorful.• November 2011

The Sunscreen Filter

UNDER THE MICROSCOPE, AND UNDER THE GUN?

T

FOOD AND Drug Administration’s announcement of the Final Rule in June heralded an eventful past few months in the world of sunscreens. Several very informative webinars were held including one each from HAPPI (which is archived on HAPPI.COM and available for free download), Croda Inc and the Personal Care Product Council. Also, new academic findings were reported regarding UVA rays, tanning salons, caffeine and UV filters from coral for sunscreen protection. In mid-September, the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ Florida Chapter’s biannual Sunscreen Symposium, not surprisingly, drew a record attendance. This is an exciting time in our industry; everyone is discussing the proposed new changes. At the Sunscreen Symposium, a number of informative seminars were presented. The formal presentations at the Symposium are always interesting, but the informal discussions that are held in the hallways and even around the swimming pools and over dinner are absolutely invaluable. In addition, the tradition of holding a roundtable discussion continued this HE

Nadim Shaath Alpha Research & Development Ltd Dr. Nadim Shaath is the president of Alpha Research & Development, Ltd. in White Plains, NY. He has over 30 years of experience as chairman of the chemistry department at SUNY-Purchase and the CEO of Kato Worldwide. Recently he formed a consulting company serving the cosmetic industry called ShaathMeadows Corporation (SMC) with laboratories in New York, New Jersey, Texas, Florida and Egypt. He can be reached at [email protected].

42 • happi

year as well. This year’s energetic panel was extremely well organized by Dennis Lott. The panel included Dr. Reynold Tan from the FDA, Dominique Moyal from L’Oréal, Mike Brown from Boots LLC, Joe Stanfield from Suncare Labs, Olga Dueva-Koganov from Akzo, Joe Stanton from Dermatest Australia and me. The controversial topics, each handled by two speakers, one arguing for and one against, included the following questions: 1. Are in vitro SPF methods viable? 2. Does a critical wavelength of 370nm or higher provide adequate UVA protection? 3. Should SPF be labeled as tested? 4. Should SPFs be limited by limiting the amount of sunscreen allowed in a product? 5. Should SPF be capped at 50? The answers to all those questions, as well as the abstracts and bios for the speakers are available from the Florida Society of Cosmetic Chemists.1 Dr. Tan, the person in charge of sunscreen regulations at the FDA, participated in both the Florida Sunscreen Symposium and the HAPPI webinar. He and I corresponded in a series of emails and telephone conversations in which he clarified a number of issues that have emerged since the June 14, 2011 announcement of the Final Rule. In my September column of“The Sunscreen Filter (Vol. 48, No. 9, p. 50),”Dr. Tan responded to eight questions that were happi.com

The FDA has some issues on how sun protection is applied to skin.

posed to him. In this column, the remaining seven questions are addressed here: Q. What about pump sprays vs. aerosols? Are pump sprays “grandfathered” since they have existed for much longer than aerosols? A. All OTC drugs must meet standards of safety and effectiveness.Therefore, no OTC drug is exempted from meeting safety and effectiveness standards just because it was marketed a long time ago (i.e. “grandfathered”). An OTC drug is eligible for inclusion in a monograph if its conditions of use existed in the OTC drug marketplace on or before May 11, 1972. Conditions of use include active ingredient, strength, route of administration, specific OTC use or indication of the product, and dosage form (see 21 CFR 330.l4 (a)). We do not know what kinds of spray dosage forms (pump, aerosol, or other) were marketed before 1972. Our advance notice of proposed rulemaking invites submission of this information, and data and information pertinent to establishing safety and effectiveness standards for spray November 2011

Ultimate UV protection DSM Nutritional Products, LLC D SM Nut ritionall Pr oducts, LL C 455 W Waterview Boulevard, Parsippany, 07054 4 aterview Bou oulevard, P arsippany, NJ 0 7054 United States America Unit ed St ates off Americ a 0189 Phone: +1 800 0 5526 26 018 9 973 257 8580 FFax: ax: +1 9 73 2 57 8 580 Email: [email protected] Em ail: w [email protected]

Offering performance UVA filters O ffering a ffull ull rrange ange off high per formance UV VA and UVB fi lters and ttechnical echnical ssupport upport tto o meet yyour our ssunscreen unscreen fformulation ormulation rrequirements, equirements, while guaranteeing highest quality,, ssafety, whi le gu aranteeing the highe st sstandards tandards in quality afety, rreliability eliability and ccompliance. ompliance.

The Sunscreen Filter

sun-induced skin damage, particularly sunburn.Therefore, these products are regulated as drugs. Unless the product is marketed under an approved NDA/ANDA, it is covered by the regulations for OTC monograph sunscreen drug products.

dosage forms in their various forms. Q. What is the status of the existing inventory that may be at retail beyond 6/17/2012? For direct selling companies, can“non-compliant products” that enter the US before June 18, 2012 be sold until expiration or only until June 2013? A. This question should be directed to the FDA’s Office of Compliance.This is a question of when a product is introduced into interstate commerce. OTC sunscreen products covered by the OTC monograph system that enter interstate commerce as of June 18, 2012 must comply with the sunscreen testing and labeling requirements in the 2011 sunscreen final rule. Q. Are there any updates on the dosage form of “wipes” or “towelettes?” A. We do not currently consider “wipes” or “towelettes” eligible for inclusion in the OTC sunscreen monograph. See the 2011 ANPR on dosage forms for FDA’s explanation. Q. What is the process for a manufacturer of an ineligible dosage form that does not fall within aTEA to receive marketing authorization? Testing requirements? Approval process? (Follow-up question: What do we need to do to continue packaging SPF in a wipe form?) A. The only recourse for these manufacturers is to submit a Time and Extent Application or a New Drug Application for their product.The manufacturer could submit a citizen petition to amend the monograph, but citizen petitions require that the amendment apply to drug conditions for drug products eligible for inclusion in an OTC monograph. Therefore, the manufacturer would have to demonstrate that its product is eligible for inclusion in the OTC 44 • happi

Some experts insist that a cap of SPF 50 won’t be enough to block the sun’s harmful UV rays.

sunscreen monograph. Q. Is bar soap an eligible dosage form? A. The only dosage forms that FDA currently considers eligible for inclusion in the OTC sunscreen monograph are oils, lotions, creams, gels, butters, pastes, ointments, sticks and sprays. In order to be eligible for inclusion in a monograph, all of the drug product’s conditions of use, which include its active ingredient, strength, route of administration, specific OTC use or indication and dosage form, must have existed in the OTC drug marketplace on or before May 11, 1972. Q. How should makeup mineral powders with SPF be treated from a regulatory testing and labeling point of view? A. Labeling with an SPF value implies that the product is used for protection against happi.com

Q. If TiO2 is used as a pigment/opacifier, at low concentrations (~0.1%) and not claimed as an OTC active, can it still be used in an SPF formula with avobenzone? A. In this drug product example, the TiO2 must be considered to be an inactive ingredient in compliance with 21 CFR 330.1(e). That regulation requires that inactive ingredients must not interfere with the effectiveness of the drug product or with suitable tests or assays to determine if the product meets its professed standards of identity, strength, quality and purity. The TiO2 must also not be intended to furnish a drug effect or activity, in compliance with the active ingredient definition in 21 CFR 210.3(b) (7). Dr.Tan’s answers to the questions are most helpful. Unfortunately, they address only a limited amount of the many inquiries that have surfaced since their announcement of the Final Rule. There has been a range of responses to the FDA’s Final Ruling. Already, several sunscreen manufacturers have expressed displeasure over the FDA’s proposed limitation of the SPF to 50+ that is in line with most other international regulations. Johnson & Johnson, Energizer Personal Care and others have submitted public comments in opposition to this rule. J&J said in its comments filed last month, “By capping the SPF at 50, many consumers will no longer have the choice to use higher protection levels that they currently find suitable for their individual needs. Higher SPF sunscreens are safe, effective and are an essential cornerstone of helping to keep the public protected from the damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation.”2 Members of the Personal Care Product November 2011

"

" ! ! " " " " $ " ! " " # % #

$

NATURALS • SUN CARE • PRESERVATION

innovating possibility ™

The Sunscreen Filter

Council (The Council), however, seem to be divided on this issue. Farah Ahmed from The Council indicated that many companies represented in her trade organization are neutral on this issue. The Environmental Working Group (EWG) has formally responded to the FDA’s Final Rule announcement by supporting the government’s position on capping the SPF at 50+. EWG, however, criticized the Final Rule for not being comprehensive.3 With postponements of the comment period and with this heated debate still brewing, the finalization of the Proposed Final Rule (capping of the SPF) and the ANPR (decision on the spray products) will probably be delayed allowing both sides of these issues to submit their data and supporting material. Some observers remain wary. Senator Jack Reed (D-RI), who had previously proposed legislation in Congress that would require the FDA to finalize the sunscreen

46 • happi

regulations (including the SPF proposal) within 180 days, has issued a statement through his press secretary, Chip Unruh, in which he states,“We’re watching it closely and don’t want this process dragged on any further than it has.”4 New advances in our understanding of sun protection also surfaced during the past few months. A number of reports were published in professional journals, trade magazines and on the internet, including a study from Kings College London led by Antony Young. He found that UVA rays are more carcinogenic than previously realized. Dr. Young wrote, “The damage seemed to increase as it went through the epidermis, and we think that it is due to a form of backscatter. In other words, the damage goes through and it is somehow reflected back.”5 They also found that sunlight streaming through windows may increase the risk of

happi.com

skin cancer. Windows filter out the sunburn-causing UVB rays, yet allows 100% of the UVA radiation through. The research also highlights the dangers of using a sun tanning bed, which emits mostly UVA radiation. In October, the Governor of California, Jerry Brown, signed into legislation a new law that prevents minors under the age of 18 from using tanning beds.6 Recently, researchers at Rutgers University and Washington University published their findings in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences that suggest that topical caffeine may help lower the risk of UV-induced skin cancer. They found that caffeine inhibits a protein enzyme found in skin, thereby protecting against skin cancers. The study suggests that caffeine would be beneficial in sunscreen formulations to increase skin protection against UV-induced skin cancers.7 Another study by researchers from

November 2011

The Sunscreen Filter

King’s College London, in collaboration with the Australian Institute of Marine Science and the University of Maine, discovered a natural compound produced by coral that could be suitable for use in sunscreens. Dr. Paul Long from King’s College stated, “We already knew that coral and some algae can protect themselves from the harsh UV rays in tropical climates by producing their own sunscreens but, until now, we did not know how.”8 Coral is generally found in shallow waters and therefore naturally produces a type of UV filter for protection from the sun’s UV rays. It is this natural sunscreen that scientists hope to synthetically re-create for human use. Other noteworthy topics that appeared recently included an article entitled“FDA Rule for broad spectrum labeling: Key substrate findings” by Heliosun Labs9 and another entitled“Antioxidants in sunscreens for improved ROS protection,”

November 2011

jointly authored by the researchers at the University of California-Riverside and Merck Consumer Care.10 During the past few months, interested parties came to the table to discuss the current and future state of sunscreens.The debates are far from over, however, a constructive dialogue has begun. Our industry has the infrastructure to present, discuss and act upon the best proposed changes. FDA, The Society of Cosmetic Chemists, academic investigations and consumer watch groups have had numerous opportunities to add perspective to a heated debate. •

References: 1. Consult www.scconline.org for the abstracts 2. www.FDA.org 3. “EWG Comments on Proposed SPF Value Labeling Cap and Safety of Spray Sunscreens,” www.ewg.com 4.“Planned Sunscreen Rules Leave Some Red,”

happi.com

http://www.thehill.com 5. Metherell, Lexi. “Study Shines New Light on Damaging UV Rays,” http://www.abc.net.au /news 6. Walbrecht, Lynn. “California Bans Tanning Beds for Teens,” http://www.healthnews.com/ en/news 7.“Study Discovers Mechanism Behind Caffeine’s Inhibition of UV-Induced Cancer,” http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/biology/128882043.html; LoBuono, Charlotte. “Caffeine Protects Skin Against UV Damage, Acts As a Sunscreen,”http://www.dailyglow.com. 8.“Compounds from Tropical Coral Could Create Novel Sunscreens for Humans or UV-Tolerant Plants,”www.isaa.org/kc/cropbiotechupdate/article/default.aspID=8392 9. Lutz, Dominique, Ongenaed, Julie, Guy, Celine;“FDA Rule for Broad-Spectrum Labeling: Key Substrate Findings;”Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 126, No.10, October 2011. 10. Hanson, Kerry M., Bardeen, Christopher J., Beasley, Donathan G., Meyer, Thomas A. Ph.D. “Antioxidants in Sunscreens for Improved ROS Protection;”Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 126, No. 10, October 2011.

happi • 47

effect

Breakthrough Active Naturals

Grow in Personal Care Sector Two hot topics, anti-aging and naturals, combine to create a dynamic growth sector in the global personal care market. Imogen Matthews • In-Cosmetics

W

HILE GROWTH in the global personal care market has been affected by the economic downturn, consumer demand for naturals has remained strong. Satisfying this demand, though, is very much a case of balancing contrasting needs, including the desire for scientifically proven ingredients alongside more natural products. Euromonitor confirms that growth in personal care ingredients is slowing and forecast to grow at less than 2% per annum through 2013. The recession has certainly impacted product choices, while growth has been restricted due to the maturity of certain markets in developed countries. One area that is bucking the trend is natural/organic personal care products, although it remains a niche market. A much greater opportunity is coming from mainstream brands that are adding botanical extracts to their products. An example is L’Oréal-owned Vichy, which has incorporated rhamnose, a naturally-derived active ingredient found in a Brazilian plant, into its newest Liftactiv Derm Source anti-aging range. With seven pending patents, as many clinical studies and two in vivo studies, this ingredient was chosen out of 50 potential ingredients byVichy scientists for its ability to stimulate activity in what it terms the“superficial”dermis, described at the compartment of the skin that helps regenerate youthful characteristics, such as firmness and smoothness. As demonstrated by this example, even

November 2011

with natural ingredients, the science is still extremely important. According to Euromonitor, natural products won’t succeed unless there is enough scientific evidence to convince increasingly demanding consumers. Its research suggests that antioxidant ingredients from naturals, such as polyphenols, plant extracts and ACE vitamins, are one area that is continuing to develop, due to widespread consumer recognition of their role in natural protection. An interesting development noted by Euromonitor has been a strong focus on ingredient blends and blending of multiple agents, rather than the use of a single active ingredient. One recent significant launch that reflects that trend is La Roche-Posay’s Derm AOX anti-aging serum, which is said to be the first serum to tackle both oxidation and glycation, believed to be the twin causes of older-looking skin. The product combines a blend of active ingredients to achieve this, including vitamin C and pycnogenol (pine extract) to act as antioxidants and carnosine to inhibit the glycation process and maintain skin suppleness.

Botanicals Dominate According to Anna Ibbotson, industry manager for chemicals and materials practice at Kline, botanicals dominate the ingredients market due to their natural happi.com

positioning and the extensive range of products available that address almost any skin care related functionality. “Botanical suppliers are periodically launching new products, therefore expanding the already wide range of products available,”she points out.“They are looking to new sources for a combination of efficiency and a positive image in the mind of the consumer. Differentiation between different products is done on their source and efficacy data linked to a particular product.” Through its long-term analysis of“truly natural” versus “natural inspired” formulations, Kline has discovered that a number of brands have improved their formulations to become more natural. They include Avalon Organics, Aveda, Jurlique, Korres, L’Occitane, The Body Shop and Tom’s of Maine. However, one of the main challenges facing companies wanting to include active naturals in their formulations is that the consumer does not always know the difference between what Kline describes as truly natural, pseudo natural or natural inspired products. happi • 49

• Active Naturals

Nancy Mills, industry manager, consumer products practice, Kline, explains why:“This is because of lack of awareness in general, although this is reversing at different rates in different regions, confusion about natural certifications and the varying legal requirements for labeling. For example, in China and India, full ingredient disclosure is not required by law.” A further challenge facing companies is the cost of formulating efficacious products naturally, which is still high compared to not using natural ingredients. This is especially true for certain categories, such as hair care. “The consumer doesn’t know what to choose. Even if he or she is willing to pay more for natural products, they don’t know if it is worth it and why in many cases,” maintains Mills.“So formulating truly naturally is not always paying off for marketers, even though Kline believes that in the medium- to long-term it will.”

Specialty Actives & Anti-Aging Specialty actives, such as surfactants and rheology control, continue to outpace personal care ingredient growth, according to Ibbotson. “Historically, activity was the most important purchase criteria, but as consumers become more‘savvy’they want an ingredient with a natural source,” she explains. “Animal-derived products in most categories are less desirable than something that is plant based.” According to Kline, European consumption of specialty actives for personal care applications is forecast to grow at an average annual rate of approximately 4.6% by value for the next five years. For this growth estimation, price fluctuations are not taken into consideration and are held constant over the next five years. According to Kline, the overall specialty actives market is expected to take advantage of the general growth of the personal care industry.

Anti-aging actives account for almost two-thirds of total European consumption of specialty actives for personal care, notes Kline, with sales estimated at approximately $212 million in 2010. “In terms of finished products, antiaging ingredients represent the best opportunity for specialty actives due to their important share of the personal care market, but also due to their usual higher price compared to other product types,” concludes Ibbotson. As one of the most important themes in personal care, anti-aging is likely to continue to be a key focus for formulators, according to Euromonitor’s research, suggesting that further scientific research into the most effective ingredients, many of them natural, is inevitable. • In-Cosmetics 2012 will take place April 17-19 in Barcelona. More info: www.in-cosmetics.com

Minoxidil Spray NOW AVAILABLE Ô )'$ DSSURYHG Ô 8QLTXH EHQHêWV ZLWK D VSUD\HU Ô $YDLODEOH IRU \RXU QDWLRQDO EUDQG SULYDWH ODEHO RU VWRUH EUDQG &DOO 'LDQD 5LWFK RI (LÍV %XVLQHVV 'HYHORSPHQW WHDP WRGD\ DW

ZZZHLVROXWLRQZRUNVFRP 50 • happi

happi.com

November 2011

HallStar Combines SCIENCE & NATURE With the acquisitions of Biochemica and B&T, Hallstar is bringing serious science to the natural personal care segment. Tom Branna • Editorial Director

H

ALLSTAR CHAIRMAN,

president and CEO John Paro is confident that his team is creating the right formula for success. The recent acquisitions of BioChemica and B&T S.r.l, gave HallStar entry into the fast-growing natural personal care business. At the same time, the company will impart its strong sciencebacked heritage to the newly-acquired businesses. Of course, BioChemica and B&T provide plenty of growth opportunities for HallStar, which has been a leader in the global ester business for decades. “By entering the natural ingredient segment, we can increase sales to existing customers by 40%,”Paro said.“And we are bringing HallStar-type science into the natural space.” Both BioChemica and B&T are natural ingredient suppliers, but Paro is quick to note that each has expertise in very different types of products. For instance, BioChemica offers a broad range of exotic butters that formulators are putting into hair and skin care products both for the unique benefits of the individual butters and as natural replacements for hydrocarbon based emollients. “They’re easy to use in formulations,” he explained. “We offer a wide range of natural and vegetal derived butters from the tropical regions of South America, Africa and Asia.” B&T, in contrast, has a rich heritage in olive oil. Its line of products includes liq52 • happi

“Photostability is not only a sun care issue. Rather, photostability expertise needs to be applied to any skin care or hair care ingredient which is subject to light or photodegradation.” —John Paro uid crystal/PEG-free emulsifiers, mild surfactants, stabilizing agents, emollients and active ingredients all derived from proprietary olive-based chemistry. Moreover, B&T researchers are performing claim-substantiation tests on a wide range of natural ingredients, which comhappi.com

plements what BioChemica and, ultimately, HallStar, can offer personal care product formulators. Most importantly, customers are already reaping the benefits from the acquisitions. “The early returns are more gratifying than we thought,”said Paro.“There’s been a lot of cross-fertilization of HallStar customers wanting a BioChemica butter or a B&T customer wanting a HallStar photostabilizer.”

The Right Fit It’s that seemingly limitless combination of opportunities that excites the HallStar CEO. After all, HallStar’s expertise in photostability of sun care ingredients is widely known. The company made its mark on the personal care industry years ago when it demonstrated that avobenzone was a photo-unstable sunscreen filter that must be stabilized with other ingredients, such as HallBrite PSF, an organomodified silicone that quenches the triplet excited state. Most recently, HallStar launched SolaStay S1 (INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycrylene), which photostabilizes the combination of octinoxate and avobenzone and is said to work up to 1000 times faster than octocrylene to protect against a loss of absorbance. Now, the company wants formulators to use its technology to photostabilize other ingredients. “Photostability is not only a sun care November 2011

Hallstar

•

The acquisitions of B&T and BioChemica expand the list of formulating solutions that HallStar can offer its personal care customers.

issue. Rather, photostability expertise needs to be applied to any skin care or hair care ingredient which is subject to light or photodegradation,”Paro said. At the recent Sunscreen Symposium sponsored by the Florida Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, HallStar’s Craig Bonda explained that retinol and retinyl palmitate are highly sensitive to UV radiation, undergoing rapid isomerization and leading to the production of photoproducts. But by incorporating a photostabilizer such as SolaStay S1 into their finished products, personal care formulators can protect their skin care actives. SolaStay S1 has been documented to photostabilize 0.1% retinol or 0.1% resveratrol at a use level of about 4%. Greater photostability means there is less potential for photoproducts and, presumably, toxicity. Incorporating photostabilizers into certain compounds can also reduce manufacturing costs, as Paro noted that some lightsensitive materials are currently manufactured in dark rooms, which adds to production expenses. “We want to get the message of photostability into the skin and hair care markets, which are so much larger than the sun care market. It increases the market that we can serve,”he said. To ensure that its message is heard, the HallStar team is reaching out to dermatologists and their related societies. Paro said that dermatologists are concerned by the problems of photostability of skin care products and are eager for solutions. “We have initially targeted the dermatology channel with these new findings, and have already seen some early launches of hybrid sun care products with anti-aging claims, all enabled by SolaNovember 2011

Stay. We now intend to leverage these early successes into the larger sun and skin care brands.”

Global Opportunities As it expands its portfolio, HallStar is also expanding its global footprint with Centers of Excellence. The Chicago center focuses on photostability and formulation; the Italian center is focused on naturals and the Akron, OH center is focused on customer care. In the coming months and years, Paro expects to grow the personal care business aggressively in Europe, Brazil and China and has the funds to put market development resources, including formulating expertise, in all three places. At the same time, the company’s global manufacturing footprint strategy enables HallStar to manufacture personal care esters throughout the world. About 75% of HallStar’s nearly $200 million in annual sales come from the US. Revenues are evenly divided between personal care and polymer additives. As it heads toward 2012, the company’s three-pronged strategy for growth in personal care— photostabilizer sales, natural ingredient sales, and market development and penetration—is firmly in place. “We have a threeyear strategy laid out and the resources to back it up,” said Paro. “We have a plan to increase our investment happi.com

globally and move forward with confidence.” Paro said he’s proud of the fact that HallStar didn’t make a single layoff during the 2007-2008 recession and is firm in his commitment to maintain his growth plan no matter what challenges lie ahead in 2012. As it integrates the recent acquisitions of BioChemica and B&T, Paro said that his company will continue to seek new opportunities. “HallStar will consider acquisitions to expand key personal care product lines and to increase its global manufacturing footprint.”•

John Paro, chairman, president and CEO of HallStar.

happi • 53

All They Want for Christmas… …is to maintain momentum. Fragrance is showing signs of life once again, but can welcome gains in prestige stick around through the critical holiday season? Christine Esposito • Associate Editor

I

F FRAGRANCE MARKETERS had just one wish this holiday season, it would be for more of the same. After a few years in the doldrums, it appears the ship has finally been righted in the fine fragrance sector. According to The NPD Group, Port Washington, NY, sales of women’s prestige fragrances for the first half of 2011 were up 8% and men’s rose 14% to $684 million and $335 million, respectively. That’s a far cry from numbers reported just a few years ago. “Two-thousand eight/2009 was absolutely horrible.The fragrance world stood still,”Rochelle Bloom, president of the Fragrance Foundation, told HAPPI.“Consumers felt that if they had to give up something, fragrance was it, as opposed to a lipstick or face cream.” But that started to change in Fall 2010—and although the sector has yet to hit prerecession levels and the mass market is still lagging behind (see chart on p. 56), prestige-side gains have been steady and more than welcome by marketers and retailers alike.

Getting Juicy Not only has there been a resurgence category wise, there’s been a shift in where consumers are spending their dollars when it comes to fragrance. According to Karen Grant, vice president and global beauty industry analyst at NPD, consumers appear November 2011

more interested in actual EDTs and EDPs than they had been in the recent past. “We see growth in juices,” she said, noting that while gift sets remain big, “that isn’t where the growth is.” Some view the sea of gift sets on department store counters during the holiday season as an impediment, not an incentive. “Brands know how to make fragrance extremely appealing visually, but anyone who knows me, knows that I have always believed that piling up gift sets upon gift sets at counter during the season is literally counter-productive,” said Bloom. “Those piles of gifts do nothing to appeal to the consumer and I would venture to say down-grade the very essence of fragrance as a work of art, a fashion accessory and an affordable luxury purchase.” Yet, the Christmas holiday season is critical for fragrance marketers; companies invest time and resources into specially packed arrays and other collectibles designed to make them an easy gift option. Estée Lauder, for example, is offering the Good Fortune Metal Compact and Solid Perfume Compact Collection, part of its yearly limited-edition offerings. The items are ornamented with semi-precious stones—think agate, malachite, lapis and rose quartz—with Estée Lauder’s Beautiful, Youth-Dew, Sensuous, Pleasures and White Linen fragrances. happi.com

Jingle G is the newest fragrance from Gwen Stefani’s Harajuku Lovers collection.

Even venerable Chanel has rolled out fragrance “luxuries” that it calls ”ideal for gifting.” It is offering demi-parfums of its five most-celebrated scents—No. 5, Coco Mademoiselle, No. 19, Allure and Coco— in a deluxe gift box that is priced at $120 (see more holiday offerings on p. 58).

Fashion Moves Forward Again The trick for established fragrances is to make holiday offerings irresistible—especially since they will find themselves up against some rather strong new launches such as Gucci Guilty and the newest rollhappi • 55

• Fine Fragrance

well-known names in fashion are stepping back into the fragrance limelight. Lauder’s Aramis and Designer Fragrances recently assumed the exclusive worldwide license for the fragrance business of Marni, the Milanbased luxury fashion company found by Consuelo and Gianni Castiglioni. Marni fans can expect the first product out next Fall. Designer Oscar de la Renta is back and out with a new scent. Live in Love rolled out to counters last month featuring top notes of sparking ginger orchid, green muguet, bergamot, hyacinth, galbanum; a heart of jasmine, orange flower and rose; and a dry down of white amber, musk, white woods, sandalwood and cedarwood. Fashion icon Diane von Furstenberg—

Diane Von Furstenberg is back in the fragrance spotlight with a new scent called Diane.

outs from designer Marc Jacobs. Their successes signal a return to fashion/designer as attention grabbers in the fine fragrance market. Leading companies appear to be casing the runways and some

the woman behind the ever-stylish wrap dress and the current president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America—is back at the forefront of fragrance too. Her newest scent, Diane, which hit counters in mid-September, opens with notes of frangipani and also features violet leaves and base notes of myrrh, musk and patchouli. Meanwhile Elizabeth Arden has teamed up with John Varvatos and Shawn “Jay-Z” Carter’s Rocawear on the men’s side. According to Varvatos, John Varvatos USA is a scent for those who “challenge perceptions of reality, because they are the ones who open up doors we never knew existed.” Working with Givaudan senior perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux, the juice is said to boast“a game of contrasts,”specifically a mix of warm woody notes with unexpected freshness that conveys a relaxed attitude with masculinity.Top notes include red ginger essence from Laos, juniper berries and cedrat from Sicily. Heart notes of blue spruce, green cardamom absolute, and osmanthus absolute. Background notes include vetiver, belambre and tonka bean from Venezuela. The package has the brand’s unique aesthetic—a bottle of smoky glass and sil-

The Dollars and Scents of the Mass Sector Despite big gains from scents from Beyoncé, the mass-market fragrance category isn’t growing like the prestige side of the market. Here’s a look at sales for the top five leading men’s and women’s scents for the 52 weeks ended Sept. 11, 2011 at supermarkets, drugstores, and mass merchandise outlets (excluding Walmart), based on data from SymphonyIRI Group, a Chicago-based market research firm.

TOTAL U.S. - F/D/Mx (supermarkets, drugstores and mass, (excluding Walmart))

Men’s Traditional Fragrance Stetson MFE Bod Man MFE Curve For Men MFE Drakkar Noir MFE Davidoff Cool Water MFE Women’s Traditional Fragrance Elizabeth Taylor’s White Diamonds TF In Style TF Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue TF Viva La Juicy TF Beyoncé Heat TF 56 • happi

Sales

Sales % Chg YAG

$7,474,387 $7,233,356 $7,227,949 $6,711,555 $6,060,663

(9.08) (9.17) 13.31 1.20 (2.81)

$13,364,080 $9,561,078 $7,984,506 $7,163,941 $6,887,191

(2.43) 35.34 (4.16) 76.99 396.84

$189,666,500

$303,660,500

happi.com

(2.96)

(1.94)

Unit Sales

Unit Sales % Chg YAG

588,287 1,287,342 336,526 221,762 228,703

(11.51) (10.06) 20.02 0.26 (5.02)

693,665 1,068,977 156,589 287,718 340,264

2.25 37.81 (6.26) 96.97 546.24

11,203,390

20,410,160

(4.23)

(3.70)

November 2011

S O

F

C

E N

N A

T T

S U

R

E

R O B E R TET

• Fine Fragrance

ver metal, drawing inspiration from 19th century vials and industrial materials, with spring system cap that is reminiscent of antique beer bottles. New Rocawear Evolution is billed as sexy, magnetic and addictive, embodying the swagger and sophistication of hip-hop culture and assured masculinity, according to Arden. Top notes are rum doused fruits, such as mandarin, mango and rhubarb; the middle has a soothing blend of coffee, incense and nutmeg and the base features sultry musks, woody amber and warm tonka bean. Grammy nominated Trey Songz has been tapped to serve as the scent’s frontman. Coty, too, has been casing the runways for inspiration. The beauty firm recently inked a new deal with Elite, the wellknown modeling agency. Announced in September, executives from Coty Beauty and Elite will team up on an international fragrance launch that will include a comprehensive media campaign as well as synergies with the Elite Model Look Contest. Details are still currently in development and will be announced closer to the launch, according to Coty. “The marketing behind the Elite Mod-

els fragrance collection will bring out the emotional side of the brand and express a modern and cosmopolitan vision of women,” said Jurgen Scharfenstein, SVP of global marketing for Coty Beauty, in a press statement. “We are working toward distilling the glamorous appeal of Elite into a line of fragrances that deliver an out of this world experience.” And expect more model scents as HatchBeauty is partnering with CBS Consumer Products to license a series of exclusive fragrances for The CW’s “America’s Next Top Model.” The first scent—Dream Come True— will be available in January at Targets nationwide.

Leave it to Beiber The resurgence of fashion and designer brands in fragrance is not to say that celebrity has lost its appeal entirely. In fact, one of the most prominent launches of 2011 came from teen heartthrob Justin Beiber. His debut scent, Someday, was ranked No. 1 in June, July and August

The Holiday Hit List Holiday offerings abound in the beauty business. Here’s a look at some seasonal offerings from the fine fragrance sector. Arbonne International, LLC is offering Fragrance Trio ($198) for the holiday season. The collection includes The Dreamer (notes of Fuji apple, yuzu zest, white cyclamen and Baltic amber), The Dazzler (notes of green bamboo, bergamot, ylang-ylang and Australian sandalwood) and The Dynamo (notes of white cardamom, frosted pink grapefruit, night blooming jasmine and golden amber). Each 1.7fl.oz. scent can also be purchased for $78 a piece. Jingle G ($25) is the newest fragrance in the Harajuku Lovers franchise. This oriental fruity floral, created by Adriana Medina of Givaudan, has top notes of tangerine, gardenia, and white star fruit; mid notes of

58 • happi

Justin Bieber’s Someday was one of the biggest launches of the year.

jasmine, orange blossom, and honeysuckle; and base notes of vanilla, cedarwood, and Laos benzion tears. Jingle G is “dressed” in a sparkly Santa suit and the bottle features a built-in hook so it can be an ornament or stocking stuffer (see p. 55), according to Coty Prestige. Estée Lauder and Jay Strongwater have teamed up to offer the Beautiful Luck Elephant ($295) well as the Happiness blooming solid perfume ($275). Both adorned with Swarovski crystals, the Luck Elephant is exclusive to Neiman Marcus while the Happiness compact is stocked only at Saks Fifth Avenue. And Bath & Body Works is toasting the season with Live Love Celebrate, which features a trio of cocktail-inspired scents. The collection features Strawberry Sparkler, Vanillatini and Jingle Bellini, which are available in its Shimmer Mist form, until January 2012.

happi.com

November 2011

CPL Aromas

• Fine Fragrance

The landscape for our fragrances has never been more green. Meeting the range of all human health and environmental endpoints is the baseline for today’s green products. At Lucta we create DfE certi¿HG IUDJUDQFHV IRU the household products industry — fragrances where creativity has no endpoints. Ask how.

DfE CERTIFIED SUPPLIER

)RU D OLVWLQJ RI 'I( FHUWL¿HG fragrances from Lucta visit cleangredients.org.

Lucta USA, Inc. 1-800-323-5341 email: [email protected] www.lucta.com 60 • happi

among all women’s fragrance launches in the US. Perfumer Honorine Blanc Bond No. 9 has of Firmenich created the just unveiled juice as a delicious fruity– New York Amber. gourmand, appropriate for the age of its expected audience: teen girls.Top notes are mandarin, William pear and wild berries; the heart features jasmine, water lily, creamy florals and coconut orchid; and the dry down is composed of sandalwood, vanilla and soft musk. But Someday does more than make teens smell good—it is giving to the greater good. The“Beib”has teamed up with Give Back Brands in which the profits of the fragrance will go to charity. Fellow singers Taylor Swift and Keith Urban have entered the pre-sale on Urbans’ own URL prior its launch at mass market retailers including fragrance marketplace too. Swift has been making the rounds on CVS and Sears in the US, Shopper’s Drug daytime and late night TV shows promot- Mart in Canada and Target and David Jones ing her fragrance, Wonderstruck, which she in Australia last month. created with Elizabeth Arden. It has notes of freesia, green tea, apple blossom, rasp- More for Men berry, dewberry, Hawaiian blanket, hibis- While country music may appeal to men, cus, honeysuckle, vanilla, musk, peach and there are other subjects that often occupy sandalwood. more space in the male psyche. Get your Like Swift’s Wonderstruck, Phoenix by mind out of the gutter—we’re talking about Keith Urban, created in partnership with cars and barbeque. Boom LLC, is Urban’s first foray into fraRolled out this summer, Que is a new grance. It said to be a modern twist on a barbecue-scented perfume and cologne classic, with a leathery gourmand scent de- from Pork Barrel BBQ, a grilling sauce and scribed as sexy, rich and masculine. Top spice rub maker founded in 2008 by Heath notes include blackberries, cognac and Hall and Brett Thompson. Pork Barrel’s plum, which segue into the aromas of dark original BBQ sauce was named best sauce chocolate and crisp fir balsam, followed by in America and one of“The 125 Best Foods a finish of warm cashmere wood in the for Men”by Men’s Health, but it remains to background. be seen whether the duo’s expertise transFans were given a sneak peek of the lates from food to fragrance. scent during Urban’s 50-plus city Get And there’s another new scent that Closer 2011 world tour. The promotional comes via a grille—this time, the kind on campaign featured giveaways and sam- an automobile. The first fragrance bearing pling opportunities, including Phoenix- the Mercedes-Benz moniker has been unscented tattoos, at concert venue stops. veiled at the TFWA World Exhibition in Fans also had access to an exclusive online Cannes. Created in partnership with the happi.com

November 2011

• Fine Fragrance

The first scent to don the Mercedes Benz name is hitting the streets.

INCC Group, it will be available at selected specialist retailers in the first quarter of 2012. The juice, which was composed by perfumer Olivier Cresp of Firmenich, combines woody notes with floral freshness, according to the German luxury automobile maker. Top notes include Calabrian bergamot, lemon essence and Italian mandarin. The middle note features a warm, spicy mix of bourbon pepper, nutmeg, violet and galbanum resin. The base note provides a spicy finish to the perfume and includes American cedar wood, vetiver, grass and patchouli.

jasmine, plum, patchouli and oak moss. Givenchy Dahlia Noir, the first fragrance developed under the creative direction of Riccardo Tisci, has a multifaceted composition including mandarin, pink pepper, mimosa, sandalwood and vanilla. Prada Candy, with notes of musk and caramel, is feminine, sweet, sophisticated and comes in a bottle that features joyful colors and the iconic pink Saffiano leather stripe with raised gold Prada letters. Another luxury fragrance firm, Bond No. 9, has rolled out back-to-back scent stories this fall. The first, I Love NewYork, features a trio of juices. I Love NewYork for Her, in a pink bottle, is a pastry gourmand of rich vanilla frosting. The opening notes—mandarin zest and a blueberry muffin accord— segue into roses, pink peonies and patchouli with a drydown of musk, vanilla bourbon and soft leather accord. I Love New York for Him, in a blue bottle, has opening notes of grapefruit zest, juniper berry and ginger, with midnotes of lavender, geranium and leather and base notes of sandalwood, musk and amber. Lastly, in a black bottle, I Love New York for All is gourmand at its heart: coffee beans, cacao, and chestnut. Initially it energizes with bergamot, lily of the valley and pepper, and

has base notes of patchouli, sandalwood and vanilla, according to the luxury fragrance house. On the heels of I Love NewYork comes New York Amber, which hit counters on Nov. 1. According to Bond, founder Laurice Rahme has taken this legendary old-world classic and transformed it into a “self-assured, highly seductive, highly persuasive metro-perfume.” It is billed as a shared male-female blend, which has musky, earthy, honey-like tree resin as its key ingredient and a liquor-gold color. Its starter spice notes—saffron, nutmeg and white peppercorns—are lightened up with zesty bergamot. A classic bouquet of rose, jasmine and osmanthus takes over, with lingering base notes that include amber, oud, sandalwood, musk and myrrh. And, as this article headed to press, news broke of a new Andy Warhol scent from Bond, its sixth in the series.

Scents for the Masses While some consumers have pocketbooks for luxury scents, lower price points can help fragrance become an everyday indulgence for those on tighter budgets. Bath & Body Works, for example, offers its Signature Collection, scents that it says

Keith Urban sampled his debut fragrance during the Get Closer 2011 world tour.

An Eye for Luxury Exclusivity sells in any luxury market, and retailer Neiman Marcus had first dibs on several new fragrances this Fall. Its roster included debut scents as well as new takes from venerable perfume makers including Balenciaga L’Essence, BottegaVeneta, Creed Royal-Oud, A Dozen Roses, Givenchy Dahlia Noir and Prada Candy. BottegaVeneta—the first fragrance from the brand—is inspired by the rolling hills of Italy and has notes of leather, bergamot, 62 • happi

happi.com

November 2011

creating winning fragrances and winning brands

Arylessence perfumers channel beautiful fragrance ideas into the very heart of your brand, helping consumers to connect and form relationships that last a lifetime. That’s the magic of fragrance created the Arylessence way.

• Fine Fragrance

fragrance aficionados consider a“best-kept secret” as they offer carefully calibrated blends of superior ingredients for a fraction of the cost of prestige brands. Signature Collection EDTs are priced just under $30, which surely appeal to consumers sticking

to a budget. Having rolled out Paris Amour in August, B&BW is looking for big things from the newest addition to the Signature Collection, Charmed Life. Charmed Life’s top notes include guava, apple, sparking pear

Cosmetics Insurance When You Know Better... Ask Your Insurance Agent. FOUNDATION™ from Brownyard has protected Cosmetics Manufacturers and Distributors for over 80 years. We know your business. We know the risks. Protect yourself with a proven market leader by applying today for a no obligation quote. www.brownyard.com/foundation/agencykit

and red berries, with mid notes of peony petals, soft jasmine, lily of the valley and coconut milk. The dry notes are apricot skin, vanilla, praline, sandalwood and musk. The Signature Collection has offerings for men too. In October, B&BW launched Classic Men, billed as a spicy oriental scent. It has top notes of bourbon pepper, crisp apple, cardamom and black pepper, mid notes of nutmeg, orris and sandalwood, and dry notes of vanilla wood, guaiac wood, vetiver, patchouli and clean musk. Like the female juice, the men’s cologne is just $29.50. Direct seller Avon has a new scent for Fall as well, Step Into Sexy, an oriental floral. Top notes of black raspberry are mingled with freesia flower and violet leaf.The heart features rosewood and violet blended with butterfly orchid. The base includes notes of cashmeran, sueded orris root and golden ambers, according to Avon.

Holiday Hopes

Phone: 800-645-5820 Email: [email protected]

64 • happi

happi.com

Whether or not mass market fragrance gets its groove back remains to be seen, but the resurgence of prestige fragrance couldn’t have come at a better time with the everimportant holiday season heating up. Big picture-wise, analysts including Deloitte and Accenture have predicted mild gains for retailers this holiday season, tamped down a slow economic recovery, continued uncertainty and shoppers who are faced with higher prices for everyday staples like food and apparel. Still, September retail sales numbers (the most recent at press time) were mainly positive, with Saks, Target and Bath & Body Works among those posting gains. According to Accenture’s annual consumer holiday shopping study, 72% percent of US consumers expect their holiday spending to be “careful” or “controlled” in 2011.The million-dollar question is whether or they will buy scent as a gift for their friends and family—or for themselves. Bloom is cautiously optimistic about the prospects. As she told HAPPI,“…going into 2011 holiday season we see definite signs of life. While not massive growth, I think we might see a growth between 3 and 5%, which would certainly be encouraging.”• November 2011

Clinical Research Laboratories, Inc.

This is your business, and looks aren’t everything. That’s why you need Clinical Research Laboratories to substantiate your claims. CRL is today’s fastest growing bioinstrumentation testing facility. We can take you step-by-step through the claims support process including study design, study initiation, and data analysis resulting in the most accurate, timely, and cost-effective testing solutions. State-of-the-art facilities, complete reports, and the confidence of a proven track record with clients big and small. That’s the beauty of CRL.

Clinical Research Laboratories, Inc. 371 Hoes Lane, Piscataway, N.J. 08854 Tel: (732) 981-1616 Fax: (732) 981-0520 www.crl-inc.com

NEW!

GLUCAM ATE ™ THICKEN VLT ER

corn-deriv ed, free from propylene glycol, our mildes Glucamate ™ thickener ye t t.

SINK or Swim? Marketers try to boost sales of bar soaps and body washes with innovative ingredients, alluring packaging and savvy campaigns. Melissa Meisel • Associate Editor

E

VEN THOUGH SOME household budgets may be tighter these days, consumers are staying loyal to their tried-and-true bath and body products— as evidenced by the maintenance of the personal cleanser category in the marketplace. After all, fashion photographer Cecil Beaton once said,“What is elegance? Soap and water.” Being clean never goes out of style. But it takes more than the basic function of freshening up to move a product from store shelf to shopping bag. According to data from SymphonyIRI Group, a Chicago-based market research firm, soap sales at FDMx outlets (excluding Walmart) rose 1.5% to $2.1 billion for the

52 weeks ended Sept. 4, 2011. Deodorant bar soap sales fell 8% to $169.4 million, even with large contributions from leading brands Irish Spring and Dial; while sales of non-deodorant bar soaps like Dove and Ivory rose 3% to $568 million. Hand sanitizer sales, mostly consisting of private label brands, plunged 35% to $92.7 million, while heavy-duty hand cleaners like Lava fell 12% to $3.4 million. Liquid body washes, led by Axe and Suave, rose 9% to $917.4 million; liquid hand soap, driven by Softsoap sales, increased 3% to $363.6 million. Bath product (bath fragrances/bubble bath) sales rose 6% to $60.1 million. Innovations in the soap, bath and

shower product market revolve around a range of product claims, according to market research firm Mintel in its report, Soap, Bath & Shower Products 2011. For example, natural/organic positioning is a key market trend, with brands offering exotic ingredients such as arnica, milk thistle and seaweed. Multifunctional products, such as Victoria’s Secret Beauty Rush Crazy for Love 3-in-1 skin and hair wash, are also trending higher in 2011. Extra moisturizing is also popular. For example, Gold Bond Ultimate Healing Deep Moisture body wash is said to feature seven intensive moisturizers, softening conditioners, healing aloe and skin-nurtur-

Vitabath body washes are back for 2011 with a new look and revitalized formulations.

November 2011

happi.com

happi • 67

• Personal Cleansers

ing vitamins, according to Mintel. And, vitamin-infused products seek to leverage the health and wellness trend in the 2011 market, such as Jafra Beauty Rituals Ancient Cleansing Oil, which is said to be “elaborated” with vitamins. Accompanying the trend toward using active ingredients within the soap and shower product is the “enabling” delivery system, according to Anna Ibbotson, industry manager, chemicals and materials, Kline & Company. In short, it’s all about millicapsules. “Millicapsules are large enough to be

seen in clear formulations and are primarily used to achieve a perceived marketing advantage by selling a product (for example, a shampoo or body wash) that contains suspended colored balls,” she told HAPPI. “Several colors can be displayed in a product and this enables the finished product to stand out in retail displays and shelving, therefore attracting consumers through this instant eye appeal.”

In the Wash Bar soap sales are weak as consumers continue to switch from this form to higher-

A Season for Giving The holidays are a time when friends and family come together, spirits are soaring and hearts are glowing. Consumers are also shopping…for teachers, hostesses, Secret Santas and other important folks in their lives. Classic bath and body kits are always a hit. Therefore, personal care marketers are ready to capture their attention, offering innovative scent stories such as frosted plum, peppermint bliss and lemon and petitgrain, to name a few. Here are some exciting offerings for Holiday 2011 at all price points: • Packed in a ready-to-give box, Philosophy Fun in the Frosty Air ($25) features Sugar Plum Frost, Ginger Berry Frost and Fresh Vanilla Frost 3in-1 Shampoo, Shower Gel & Bubble Baths in the 6oz size. More info: www.philosophy.com

• To recall memories of holidays past, when families took the time to be together, Jason offers the new Simple Comforts Limited Edition Pure Natural Gift Sets ($8.95). Featuring vintage scents from 1959, the year Jason was founded, each kit includes a special, limited edition body wash and a bath sponge, responsibly sourced from 100% recyclable materials. The Frosted Plum variation features plum, natural vanilla extracts and pure almond oil. More info: www.jason-natural.com • Last Christmas, a handful of Lush employees were sent off around the globe to gather inspiration for this holiday season. They were inspired to create the Jilted Elf ($5.95 100g/$10.95 250g), a shower jelly product crafted from a blend of honey, vodka and fig decoction. Despite its name, this jelly has a warm, uplifting fragrance sure to put a 68 • happi

priced body washes, according to Nancy Mills, industry manager consumer products practice, Kline & Company, Houston, TX. “The body wash category is leading some interesting product innovations such as delivering new and interesting fragrance experiences as well as providing skin benefits such as moisturization,” agreed Rob Candelino, US marketing director, personal wash, Unilever.“Packaging is absolutely an important factor in the consumer purchase decision.” In 2011, Suave introduced a line of new Creamy Body Washes including Suave Nat-

smile on even the grumpiest scrooges, according to the company. More info: www.lushusa.com • For holiday 2011, Suave has a range of limited edition seasonal body washes ($1.99) in four scrumptious scents: Candy Apple Luscious Body Wash, Holiday Pear Refreshing Body Wash, Peppermint Bliss Shimmer Body Wash, Toasted Vanilla and Sugar Indulgent Body Wash. These limited edition body washes are currently on shelves at Walmart stores nationwide. More info: www.suave.com • Sothys boasts an at-home spa experience with its Perfumed Soap Trio Box ($20). This holiday set contains three hydrating soaps featuring subtle fragrances inspired by the new Sothys Body Escape Collection. Made in France, each soap is engraved with the Sothys logo and individually wrapped. The collection includes: Lemon & Petitgrain Escape, a fresh, citrus; Orange Blossom & Cedarwood Escape, a woody, musk; and Vanilla & Sandalwood Escape, a powdery variation. More info: www.sothys.com • Dr. Hauschka debuted the Serenity & Relaxation Set ($29.95), featuring the soothing scent of lavender. The kit includes a Moor Lavender Body Oil and Lavender Bath in streamlined white packaging. Lavender essential oil and Moor (peat moss) extract are said to provide comfort, protection and a sense of well-being. More info: www.drhauschka.com

happi.com

November 2011

Ajinomoto North America, Inc., Specialty Chemicals Division, 400 Kelby Street, Fort Lee, NJ 07024 (201) 292-3180 • [email protected] ©2011 Ajinomoto North America, Inc. All product names shown here are registered trademarks of Ajinomoto Co., Inc.

• Personal Cleansers

Axe is bulking up its Fixers collection with two new variations, Cool Metal and Thai Massage.

urals Creamy Apricot & Orange Blossom Exfoliating Body Wash, which helps remove dull looking skin while gently exfoliating, Suave Naturals Creamy Cocoa Butter & Shea Body Wash and Suave Naturals Creamy Milk & Honey Splash Body Wash. Its newest fragrances are holiday-themed (see sidebar on p. 68). Also in mass and touted as being infused with fragrances that will indulge the senses at half of the price of the leading specialty brand, the Olay Body Collection from P&G features three scent stories encapsulated in both bar soaps and body washes. Variations include Luscious Embrace, enriched with jojoba butter and crushed orchid extract; Silk Whimsy, featuring rose extract and almond oil; and Purely Pristine, infused with seaweed extract and mineral crystals. Alberto Culver’s St. Ives is also bulking

up its bath and body offerings with tropical-infused SKUs. Recent launches include St. Ives Triple Butters Creamy Vanilla Body Wash, St. Ives Triple Butters Creamy Coconut Body Wash and St. Ives Naturally Clear Green Tea Body Wash and Scrub. At J&J, both Clean & Clear and Aveeno have exotic takes on their personal cleanser products. Clean & Clear Morning Burst Body Wash is now available in Boost, a mango and papaya combination; Charge, a pomegranate and lemon zest blend; and Splash, which uses wildberry and guava. Meanwhile, Aveeno’s Positively Nourishing Body Wash features Blackberry + Vanilla and White Peach + Ginger variations. “There has been an increased awareness for incorporating natural-based items into everyday lifestyles—from food ingredients to beauty products. Bearing that insight in mind, anything with fruit extracts,

Use these Four Features To Score with Shoppers Dr. Rolanda Johnson Wilkerson, senior scientist, Procter & Gamble, Cincinnati, OH, shares with HAPPI the four main components that consumers are looking for in a body wash or body cleanser: • Lather – ease of generation, stability, “creaminess” and amount • Sensory – how the product feels on the skin during and after use (draggy, coated, smooth) • Mildness & Moisturization – absence of flakes, tightness and redness • Scent – has a pleasant scent and leaves an appropriate level of scent on the skin Consumers also look for value; multi-purpose bath & body products that work to cleanse and moisturize at a good price point and deliver noticeable benefits, added Johnson Wilkerson.

70 • happi

happi.com

plant-derived ingredients and other antioxidants have been extremely popular in the marketplace recently,” said Warren Wallo, director of scientific engagement, research & development, Johnson & Johnson Consumer & Personal Products Worldwide, Skillman, NJ. Another popular body wash brand is poised for a comeback this year. Vitabath returns to the market at retail outlets such as Ulta, Ricky’s Beauty, Harmon Drugs and Bed Bath & Beyond, Ulta Cosmetics with four fragrance profiles. Spa Day, In Bloom, Fruit Fanatic and Cupcake Couture are all sulfate- and paraben-free body washes featuring a blend of vitamins A, B3, C, E, proVitamin B5 and antioxidant-rich superfruits to pamper skin exposed to autumn’s colder, dry air. “Antioxidant-rich superfruits are popping up in grocery stores and beauty aisles all over the country. Savvy consumers concerned with health and aging are interested in how these ingredients can improve the overall condition of their skin,” Richard Neill, chief executive officer, Vitabath, Atlanta, GA told HAPPI.“We noticed this trend and therefore included açai berry, goji, noni, pomegranate, mangosteen, coffee fruit and green tea extract in our new fragrance collection.” Meanwhile, Bath & Body Works is hitting the“fast forward”button to 2012 with Live, Love, Celebrate—a trio of new fragrances to its Signature collection that captures the season’s most festive elixirs. This holiday, consumers can say cheers with Strawberry Sparkler, Vanillatini and Jingle Bellini scents in a shower gel, among other SKUs. For the men’s marketplace, Axe is bulking up its Fixers line of shower gels with two new scents for 2011. Made with cooling silver shower gel, fine quartz and zinc, Cool Metal shower gel aims to help guys keep their cool when things heat up, according to the company. In contrast, Thai Massage, made with tigergrass oil and sea salt, merges the scent of ginger and sandalwood to help them relax after a long day. Sweet, fruity scents are also predominant in shower products this season, acNovember 2011

Empowering Your Product with

Nature For Personal Care

Jungbunzlauer provides genuine ingredients for personal care products…naturally! Citric Acid and Sodium Citrates s Excellent pH regulation, appropriate for natural cosmetics s Superb odorless buffering agents

Xanthan Gum s Exceptional thickener and stabilizer, providing optimal rheology s Highest purity, GMO-free, ideal for natural care

Gluconates s Safe and natural chelants, EDTA-free s Gentle exfoliants and effective moisturizers found in honey

CITROFOL®

Mineral Salts s Zinc citrate, natural anti-bacterial agent for oral & topical treatments s Potassium citrate for oral care, reducing effects on sensitive teeth

ERYLITE® s Natural moisturizing properties ideal for creams and lotions s Reduces bitterness and enhances taste for oral care

Jungbunzlauer is committed to quality and sustainability.

s Efficient active ingredient for aluminum-free deodorants s Enhances long-lasting scents for perfumes

USA phone +1 617 969 0900 [email protected]

• Personal Cleansers

White Peach and Shea Butter, available in body wash and bar soap for your daily dose of healthy skin nutrition,” she said.“Dial Nutriskin replenishes your skin by providing essential moisture and nutrients to help keep your skin looking and feeling its healthy, protected, beautiful best.” A hot ingredient in soap/shower products Softsoap is branching out into the bar soap category this season. right now is sugar, noted Glenn Abrahamson, president, One Bath & Body, Carrollcording to industry insiders. Janell Holas, senior brand manager, Dial and Dial for ton, TX. His company’s Sun Drenched Men, bar, body wash and hand sanitizer, Lemon Sugar Scrub contains sugar and Henkel North America, Scottsdale, AZ, told lemon peel oil. The brand, known for its HAPPI that the company’s Dial Nutriskin natural ingredients and eco-friendly packportfolio of products leverages the concept aging, recently got picked up for distribution at Ulta, as previously reported in HAPPI. of“nutricosmetics.” “This platform includes our new Dial “For basic everyday needs, we find the Nutriskin Replenishing Lotions, as well as trend going back to natural, vegetableour new Dial Nutriskin with 7 BioNutrients based soaps which create a nice lather, but

most importantly, they wash off cleanly,”he added. “Many machine grade soaps and shower gels leave a residue that is hard to wash off, which may waste water.” Robin White, director of international programs and global press, Philosophy, Phoenix, AZ, agrees that innovative, effective formulations are the products that move off the shelves. “One of the hottest trends right now are shower products that take a multi-sensory approach to showering whether it be through ingredients, colors or scent,” she told HAPPI.“We just relaunched a shower product under our Amazing Grace fragrance franchise that is an olive oil body scrub. It uses naturally-derived exfoliatants, including diatomaceous earth and sea salt, to gently resurface and help soften rough, dry skin. The olive oil in the formula helps replenish lost moisture on your newly rejuvenated skin and the light touch of Amazing Grace fragrance leaves skin feeling clean and beautifully feminine. The color of the formula is creamy and looks so caring for your skin. It truly inspires your senses head-to-toe.”

New Life for Ivory Soap

and online advertising. These honest truths include Not only does Ivory Soap float...it has come back a series of simple and straightforward messages to life in a big way. Procter & Gamble is giving its that reintroduce Ivory’s perspective on keeping oldest consumer brand a new advertising camthings clean and simple. paign and product packaging to contemporize the The new television campaign includes five com132-year-old franchise. Targeting the modern mom mercials, including one 30-second and four 15who is incredibly complex yet driven by simplicity, second spots, all slated to appear this month in the new campaign highlights the value and simselect cities nationwide. Two of the television complicity of Ivory, focusing on giving busy moms and mercials, “Identity Crisis” and “Soap Dish,” take families a product that delivers what they want. viewers through a melodic journey of bathroom “Ivory is P&G’s oldest and most beloved brand, decor which spotlights a number of distinctly perand while consumers relish in the nostalgia and hersonal soap dishes with the message, “A Soap For itage of the product, it’s time for a holistic reinvenEvery Dish.” The “Soap Dish” ad takes the same tion of the brand as we work to touch and improve jazz-filled journey through the bathroom only to more consumers’ lives in more parts of the world highlight a variation of soap sculptures, which then more completely,” said Jay Sethi, Ivory brand man- P&G has given its oldest consumer begs the question, “At What Point Does Soap Stop ager. “We’ve answered the call for consumers want- brand a new look and advertising Being Soap?” ing a ‘simple and clean’ solution and the most campaign to attract a following. Ivory’s print and online campaign is equally enterpowerful aspect of Ivory still remains the simplicity of taining, as it offers the same kind of simple and the product.” straightforward messages, including “When Dirt Changes Its Formula Developed by Portland-based Wieden+ Kennedy, the new ad cam- So Will We,” “Just Add Water” and “Cleanliness Needn’t Involve Costpaign takes a humorous look at what are called “Ivoryisms”― refreshliness.” ingly honest product truths―that will appear in all of the television, print The print and online campaign broke last month. 72 • happi

happi.com

November 2011

• Personal Cleansers

Raising the Bar

around the sink, shower or tub. Their small size Non-deodorant bar soap also offers environmental sales are on the rise— benefits in that they rereaching out to the noquire less space during frills consumer who wants the shipping and warea simple sort of clean…or housing processes, do they? Marketers this therefore reducing enseason are stepping up to ergy use and emissions.” the plate with a variety of Nature’s Gate rolled exotic ingredients infused out five bath bars to adinto their bar soap SKUs; dress the green conthrowing a curve ball to sumer’s growing their shower scrub/body demand for this form of wash counterparts. soap, according to the “In addition to offering company. These vegvalue, which is of great etable-based, tripleimportance in today’s milled cleansing bars economy, bar soaps apfeature key ingredients peal to those who prefer and scents from the the sensorial experience brand’s top-selling hair of lathering with a bar and skin care products. soap compared to liquid The range includes soap or body wash,” said Pomegranate Sunflower, Jennifer Schweitzer, brand Aloe Vera, Oatmeal, Tea manager, Nature’s Gate, Tree and Herbal (myrrh Chatsworth, CA.“They are and lavender blend) variuseful for travelers who ations, all featuring the appreciate the ease of brand’s signature“7 Natpacking bar soaps in their carry-on luggage. And St. Ives’ Naturally Clear body scrub ural Moisture Boosters” including sodium with their concentrated features green tea and salicylic acid. hyaluronate, vegetable formulas and compact glycerin, shea butter, size, they offer convenience in homes with space constraints sweet almond oil, vitamin E, apricot kernel

No Link Between Antibacterial Soaps And Antibiotic Resistance Newly published research reaffirms that the use of antibacterial wash products in the home environment does not contribute to antibiotic or antibacterial resistance, confirming previous research that showcased similar findings. The study, published in the peer-reviewed International Journal of Microbiology Research, compared the use of over-thecounter antibacterial liquid hand and body cleansers and antibacterial bar soaps—containing the germ-killing ingredients triclosan and triclocarban—against the use of non-antibacterial cleansers. Lead author Eugene Cole, who has spent more than 35 years in the field of environmental health research, says the study discounts claims that the use of antibacterial wash products have contributed to the selection and spread of drug-resistant bacteria on human skin. “There was no statistically significant difference in antibiotic resist74 • happi

oil and soybean oil. Colgate’s mass market category leader, Softsoap, also recently branched out into bar soaps touting deep cleansing benefits in three invigorating fragrances: Juicy Pomegranate & Mango, Coconut Scrub and Sweet Honeysuckle & Orange Peel. These SKUs complement other Softsoap products, including body washes, Body Butter scrubs and classic liquid hand soaps. SheaMoisture, a natural brand sold at Target, Walgreen’s and Duane Reade, bulked up its bath and body portfolio with the Organic Red Bush & Sage Collection. This line includes an exfoliating sugar scrub, nourishing bar soap and soothing bath treatment. These 100% natural products contain red bush, which is rich in alpha hydroxy acid and zinc to help exfoliate and heal skin; as well as sage, for its antibacterial and calming properties that balance skin functions. SheaMoisture’s Organic Red Bush & Sage Soap with Egyptian Musk is an organic, nourishing bar soap that contains deeply hydrating certified organic shea butter from a fair trade cooperative in Liberia. This bar soap cleanses away impurities without causing any dryness, tightness or irritation, said the company, which just won a 2011 Esquire Grooming Award for its Men’s Groom Three Butters Utility Soap— another popular bath bar from the line.This

ance of Staphylococcus isolates obtained from the skin of regular antibacterial wash product users in comparison with non-antibacterial product users,” said Dr. Cole, professor of Environmental Health Sciences of Brigham Young University’s Department of Health Science. “There was also a definitive lack of antibiotic and antibacterial cross resistance among those bacteria.” The research was supported by the American Cleaning Institute (ACI) and the Personal Care Products Council. “Hygiene product manufacturers and ingredient suppliers continuously review and analyze research and fund new studies to ensure product and ingredient efficacy and safety. This is part of our industry’s long-standing commitment to product stewardship,” said Dr. Francis Kruszewski, ACI director of human health and safety. “After decades of use, antibacterial wash products continue to play a beneficial role in everyday hygiene routines for millions of people around the world.” More info: www.FightGermsNow.com

happi.com

November 2011

• Personal Cleansers

all-natural, no-fuss product can be used for body, shampoo or shaving. “While consumers will always appreciate the convenience and ease-of-use of shower gels, bar soaps are enjoying a Renaissance and making a strong comeback,” noted Richelieu Dennis, founder and chief executive officer of Sundial Creations, makers of the SheaMoisture brand, Amityville, NY. “The palpable and sensory aspect of bar soap—being able to hold it in your hand, smell it and feel it—is attractive to consumers.” Seasonal and global trends are also coming into play in the bar soap sector. This fall, indulge in calming relaxation with the Naturally Signature Collection in Golden Maple Sugar—the scent of fresh maple syrup blended with lightly sweetened butter and warm undertones of brown sugar from Upper Canada Soap. Products in the paraben-, mineral oiland synthetic dye-free Naturally Signature range include the Moisturizing Bath Soap Bar. Packed with white tea extract, this pampering triple-milled soap protects skin from free radical damage, according to the company. It joins white tea ginger, creamy almond milk and goji berry hemp variations at the company.

And for those looking for erties,” noted Mills of Kline a little bit of luxury in a & Company.“With the rebath bar, C.O. Bigelow cent recession, consumers stores just added Alighiero are more conscious about Campostrini Italian soaps their spending patterns to its apothecary invenand choose to spend on tory. Founded in Florence, products that can offer Italy, Alighiero Cammultiple benefits at a reapostrini has been carefully sonable price.” creating coveted formulas “Our research and desince 1894. In honor of velopment teams are althis legacy, Alighiero ways evolving our Campostrini continues to products for what our produce handmade soap consumer is looking for,” with ingredients including said Candelino of vegetable oils, beeswax Unilever. “We anticipate and glycerin using antique consumers will continue bronze molds. to look for high quality Each unique Alighiero body wash products with Campostrini La Florentina a focus on fragrance and bar is housed in a handmoisture.” crafted keepsake box with Natural and organic designs dating back to the Clean & Clear Morning Burst body formulations will conlate 19th century. Varia- wash targets teens. tinue to be in demand, tions include Medici’s observed Dennis of Rose, Lavender and Olive Oil & Tomato SheaMoisture. Consumers will also conLeaf. tinue to educate themselves on ingredients and read labels with care. “We’ll also see an increase in multiA Bubbly Outlook functional soaps and washes, such as bar According to Mintel, the mass market for soap and shower products remains soap that cleanses, tones, brightens and strong, and is expected to grow between exfoliates skin in one fell swoop,”he said. “We are continuing to see products 2010 and 2015. Multitasking, natural and taking a natural angle in product develnovel scent varia- opment,” noted Neill of Vitabath. “As tions also will draw consumers become more aware of prodconsumers to try uct ingredients, they are creating an innew personal creased need for shower and bath cleansers in the up- products that not only smell and feel great, but that also enhance their overall coming year. “Increasingly, well-being.” “The trend of using your shower time consumers will prefer using products to enjoy the ritual of cleansing and incorthat can provide porating aromatherapy is still very beauty benefits, strong,” added White of Philosophy. such as anti-aging “Whether you choose clean, fresh, femiand skin firming, in nine notes or a fun seasonal option in addition to the ex- your product, we know that the scent will pected moisturizing affect your mood and change the way you and cleansing prop- face the day.”•

Olay offers a spa-like shower experience for an affordable price.

76 • happi

happi.com

November 2011

People, Places & Things Now more than ever, successful I&I companies have the right mix of personnel, categories and effective products. Tom Branna • Editorial Director

A

T FIRST GLANCE, the industrial and institutional (I&I) cleaning market would seem to be hurting. After all, the global economy appears shaky, no major health threats are boosting interest in disinfectants and sanitizers, and the once strong green movement appears to have lost some of its momentum. And yet, most major players in the category are upbeat about 2011 results and 2012 prospects. They are confident that they’ve found the right balance that includes an aggressive sales force, product mix and new product launches to remain ahead of Procter & Gamble Professional’s Comet disinfecting bath cleaner, Spic n Span 3-in1 disinfectant and the competition for the foreseeable future. Mr. Clean Magic Eraser makes cleaning easier for housekeeping staff. Kline & Company, the Fairfield, NJbased research company, puts the global I&I market at $42 bil- or the same amount of work with fewer employees.” The other lion, with the segment evenly divided between North America, four out of 10 respondents indicated they’ve taken this approach Europe and the Rest of World. More specifically, Bruce Boynick, a when it comes to internal products and services, such as using senior associate with Kline & Co., estimates the $13.5 billion US multiuse cleaning products. To help its customers achieve more with less, earlier this year, I&I market is growing 3% a year.The company recently published a janitorial and housekeeping study that focuses on topics such P&G Professional rolled out the P&G ProLine Floor Care System, as floor care, hard surface cleaning, disinfectants, hand care and that features a low-odor floor finish stripper, seven floor finishes odor control. In talking to HAPPI, Boynick acknowledged that the and neutral-impact cleaners. “We’ve had a good response (to the launch). There’s been an uneven US economy remains challenging. “People have to clean, and there is some basic level of cleaning, uptick in the high-durability, low-polish area,”explained ChrisVubut there are some cleaning processes that are discretionary,” he turo, external relations manager, P&G Professional.“Customers noted.“In a tin cup economy, you don’t wax and strip as much as want the right product for the right needs and want more durabilyou used to. But you still need paper and soap in the washroom; ity for less money.” you need air care.” That’s the reasoning behind P&G Professional’s push to promote Comet disinfecting bath cleaner, Spic n Span 3-in1 disinfectant and Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. With these three items, hotel Searching for Savings cleaning personnel can accomplish 95% of their cleaning chores Every I&I end-user is watching his bottom line very carefully these days. According to a recent survey by P&G Professional, six out of quickly and easily, according to the firm. “Labor still represents 85-90% of costs, so we can offer solu10 respondents indicated that their business has taken a “doing more with less approach”within their organization by“doing more tions that are cost-effective,”maintained Vuturo.

November 2011

happi.com

happi • 79

• I&I Market

Ecolab purchased Nalco to provide solutions to the 50% of its customers who require help with water issues.

Building Businesses And more frequently, company executives are discovering that they need to find new ways to generate revenue in this uneven economy. For example, Ecolab made a bold move earlier this year by acquiring Nalco, a purchase that gave the world’s largest I&I player entry into the fast-growing water treatment business. In a conference call with analysts, Ecolab CFO Steve Fritze noted that water is central to Ecolab’s strategy. “Over 50% of our customers require help with water,”he explained. “Food and beverage is a huge consumer of water, along with hotels, restaurants and health care.“ Fritze told analysts that water scarcity issues have closed food and beverage plants in some countries. It’s no wonder, then, that he said the Nalco acquisition has enabled Ecolab to expand its business opportunity from $57 billion to more than $100 billion. “We have the wind at our back in terms of macrotrends,”he insisted. Ecolab has identified five pillars of growth: • Extend corporate account leadership globally (and) take a disproportionate share in corporate accounts; • Develop a leadership position in emerging markets. Win in China and Brazil. In fact, Ecolab is already No. 1 in China; • Become water, energy and waste experts in its market; • Build healthcare to be a core business; and • Expand global business centered around Europe. At the same time, Ecolab is now better positioned to help its existing customers make good on their promises. “Look at the sustainability pledges made by food and beverage makers—they don’t have all the solutions, but Nalco is a leader there,”Fritze told analysts.

The Deal Is Sealed Not quite so clear is Sealed Air’s $4.3 billion acquisition of Diversey, which was closed last month. Although company executives maintain that the move gives the bubble wrap maker further opportunities into the area of food safety, some observers say that’s a bit of 80 • happi

a stretch. After all, they reason, just how closely allied are Cryovac and hard surface cleaners? Still, the Sealed Air brass is confident that their acquisition will be a boon to the company, shareholders and, of course, end users. “Today marks the beginning of an exciting new era of opportunity for Sealed Air, our employees, and the customers we serve,” said William V. Hickey, president and chief executive officer of Sealed Air when the deal closed on Oct. 3.“We are now a global leader in protection with inventive solutions in food safety and security, facility hygiene and product packaging that protect what we eat and drink, where we go, and the valuable goods we ship.” According to Hickey, the company is committed to deliver solutions that improve safety, efficiency and sustainability using its extensive infrastructure, world class manufacturing principles, expanded R&D capabilities and the tremendous expertise of its global team. “We are excited to bring forward innovative solutions that will create measurable value for our customers, enhance the quality of life for consumers, and provide a cleaner and healthier environment for future generations.” Although not as celebrated as the acquisitions by Ecolab and Sealed Air, Swisher Hygiene has been making plenty of purchases of its own during the past couple of years, bringing a host of small I&I companies under the its aegis. Last month alone, Swisher announced six acquisitions, including L&F Sales, Santec Services, Guardian Environmental, A.C.M. Services, West Coast Laundry & Warewashing and Gulf Coast Laundry Services of Mississippi. It’s all part of the Swisher’s objective to be a single source provider of essential hygiene and sanitation services and products to its customers through multiple distribution channels. To achieve that goal, the company is committed to a rapid expansion of market share through acquisitions and organic growth. The company estimates that in the US there are more than 3,400 chemical service providers, 2,000 linen and facility service providers and 38,000 waste collection companies. According to Swisher, many of these businesses are acquisition opportunities in new markets or tuck-ins for existing markets.

happi.com

November 2011

Powerful for cleaning solutions. Better for the environment. Trilon M strongly binds Calcium and Magnesium salts to improve cleaning performance in hard surface, automatic dishwasher and laundry operations. An efficient cleaning alternative to phosphates, it is an environmentally friendly chelating agent. Trilon M chelate has been approved by the Environmental Protection Agency’s (EPA) Design for the Environment (DfE) certification program. For more information visit us at www.care-chemicals-formulators.basf.com

• I&I Market

Green Keeps Going

New product systems make it easier for hospitals to reduce the down time necessary to maintain flooring.

What’s New? While a few I&I marketers have placed bold bets in 2011, most industry executives say they remain cautiously optimistic about the US economy heading into 2012. At the recent International Sanitary Supply Association’s ISSA/Interclean tradeshow, marketers highlighted an array of new products that ran the gamut from floor care to hand care to hard surface cleaners which executives maintain help their customers get the job done right the first time—and for less cost than traditional products. For example, Ecolab promoted its Maxx Durable floor finish program. Launched in May, the line contains a patented polymer that offers durability and crosslinking, but remains strippable to reduce down time. “Customer reaction has been fantastic,”insisted Brian Leafblad, program leader, institutional HHC, research and development.“It’s a true innovation and it saves money in labor and maintenance so that a hospital, for example, doesn’t have to shut down its emergency room to treat the floor.” According to Leafblad, simplifying cleaning procedures and labor savings, while ensuring better results continue to drive the market. “Floor care is a commodity business,”he observed.“But we are launching innovations and creating value for the end-use customer.” Meanwhile, 3M has introduced Trizact Diamond HX discs for refurbishing stone surfaces including concrete, marble and terrazzo. The discs, which debuted last year, last longer because their cut rates remain higher than competitive products, according to 3M. “You can cut out a lot of maintenance,”insisted Tom Floyd, lab manager, 3M.“Customers are looking for ways to be more efficient. There is interest in anything that does it faster and cheaper.” 82 • happi

Jim Beard,VP-marketing at State Chemical Solutions, told HAPPI that while the growth hasn’t been dramatic of late, green formulations continue to be the wave of the future. During the past year, State has added a green floor finish, green stripper and green truck and car wash. Most recently, the company introduced a penetrating oil that is bio-based. “The green trend is intensifying; most conventional formulas are disappearing because the green formulas work so well,”said Beard. Judy Albazi, president and CEO of Chase Products, certainly agrees with that assessment. Her company launched Green World N, the first full line of green, Design for the Environment (DfE)certified continuous spray products formulated for the jan/san industry. “These products are brand new; we have no competition,”she insisted. Green World N uses nitrogen propellant and DfE-designated “cleangredients.”The line, which includes stainless steel cleaner and polish, dust and mop treatment, glass cleaner, all-purpose cleaner, furniture cleaner and polish and bathroom and tile cleaner, is packaged in a recyclable steel container and is promoted as containing no harsh chemicals, no fumes, no perfumes and no color additives. Just as important, Green World N provides effective cleaning. “Green is all about perception and there is a perception that green doesn’t clean,” said Albazi. In contrast, she insisted that Green World N works and exceeds all of California’s clean air requirements. At ISSA Interclean, Orbio Technologies, a unit of Tennant, rolled out Orbio 5000-Sc, which it maintains transforms water into an effective multi-purpose cleaning solution. Softened tap water and salt flow into a charging cell, where electricity is applied to create separate alkaline and acidic streams.The alkaline solution is stored and the acidic solution is removed. The solution that remains (sodium hydroxide) attacks organic soils during cleaning, according to company executives. “There are cost-savings and environmental benefits,”said Karla Leis, VP/GM, Orbio Technologies. “People want cleaning in a proven, sustainable way.” The company maintains that Orbio 5000-Sc replaces most daily-use conventional cleaners such as all-purpose cleaners, glass cleaners, stainless steel cleaners, daily cleaners and carpet prespray cleaners. Cost-savings and environmental benefits are also the reasons behind Betco’s introduction of the SmartValve.This lockable urinal flush valve is said to reduce water consumption by up to 40,000 gallons per urinal per year, which results in annual savings of $200 to $600 per urinal. The SmartValve enhances Betco’s existing SmartScreen urinal technology. The SmartScreen concept is simple, involving a fragrance-impregnated screen with a bioactive enzymatic block to control odors and maintain drain lines. According

happi.com

November 2011

MicrobialControl

Tailored substrates to suit your needs

When it comes to disinfectant wipes, one of Lonza’s many substrate choices is sure to fit you perfectly – Reducing your costs – Differentiating your product – Optimizing performance

For more details on all our substrate options, email us at [email protected] or call 1-855-849-1039

www.lonzabiocides.com

• I&I Market

to Betco, the SmartScreen and SmartValve is easier to maintain than water-free urinals because the water source is still available for cleaning. Saving money on shipping costs, energy and time is the idea behind the launch of concentrated cleaning products from Earth Friendly Products. The nine-item line will begin shipping in January. Also new from Earth Friendly is a plant-based graffiti remover. Earth Friendly is primarily a retail company, with just 10% of revenues coming from commercial sales. Still the company has posted 20% annual growth for the past five years, according to Luke Bobek, director of industrial and institutional sales. With no MRSA or H1N1 concerns to drive hand sanitizer sales, marketers are looking for

New Hand Care Options

new ways to boost the category.

While worries about the global economy rise and fall, there haven’t been any large scale health scares during the past year that rival the H1N1 or MRSA concerns that made headlines in years past. Still that hasn’t stopped Gojo from launching Purell Advanced instant hand sanitizer. A new, patent-pending formula boosts the performance of the alcohol, while a new humectant helps moisturize skin. Purell Advanced promises to kill 99.99% of a broad range of bacteria. “This is a step-change,”insisted Randy Bakes, global marketing vice president, Gojo.“Purell is fabulous and hard to improve, but bugs are evolving and we need to get even tougher.” Meanwhile, Stoko Skin Care launched the Refresh Foam easyto-install countertop bottle. The design enables cleaning staff to quickly and easily change out product because it fits easily into countertops, is installed under counter fitments once and is refilled from the top forever.

People Persons Of course, a company could offer the most effective, labor-saving products, but if its personnel is lacking, it will continue to play catch up to its competitors. “Our network of distribution is our greatest asset,” insisted Spartan chairman Steve Swigart.“They identify growth opportunities.”

Mark Your Calendars The 2012 ISSA/Interclean tradeshow will be held Oct. 16-19 in Chicago, before returning to Las Vegas Nov. 18-21, 2013. More info: www.issa.com Can’t wait for the Windy City? Be sure to check out Supply Line 2012, which will be held May 2-3, 2012 in Atlantic City, NJ. The 2010 event attracted more than 2,000 attendees. More info: Pat Koziol, [email protected]

84 • happi

These opportunities for growth have enabled Spartan to thrive for 55 years and expand beyond its jan/san roots. This year, for example, the company is expanding in the warewashing sector. A couple of years ago, it was laundry and five years ago, it was food processing. But no matter what the product category, Swigart insisted that in the end, it all comes down to personnel. “It’s a people business. It’s about knocking on doors, understanding the customer’s needs and being able to sell,” he told HAPPI. Beard of State agrees, explaining that it is critical to differentiate from the competition through service. “You have to be there for the customer, to make sure that everybody using the product has been trained and coached properly, that all the dispensers are working.” To maintain a high level of service, State offers several internet components such as online training programs to certify a particular application such as restroom cleaning to office cleaning to more complex procedures. “It is key to be a learning organization,”he said.“Your people have to be knowledgeable. Our investment is going into employee training.” Even a company with resources as deep as Ecolab realize that its 14,000 sales and service employees are its biggest asset. “We are one of the best selling companies to work for,”insisted Fritze.“Everybody’s job is helping sales become more effective with their customers.” No matter what happens to the global economy, I&I manufacturers remain upbeat about 2012 prospects. “I don’t think the industry will slow down much more than it already has,” predicted Beard. “Because then you cross the line where you can’t function anymore. If you are going to function, then you need our products.” • Looking for a new ingredient for your I&I product? A list of them can be found on p. 86.

happi.com

November 2011

Natural disinfecting power

Natural, renewable and safe. PURAC Sanilac is used as an anti-bacterial agent in a variety of consumer and industrial sanitizing and cleaning

PURAC® Sanilac

products. Based on the fermentation of carbohydrates, PURAC Sanilac is

• Anti-bacterial agent

registered both in the United States and Europe as a disinfectant. PURAC

• Registered disinfectant

Sanilac is readily biodegradable, non mutagenic and non aqua toxic. In today’s

• Cleaning agent

search for environmentally friendly, yet effective cleaning products, PURAC

• Natural, renewable & safe

Sanilac is the perfect ingredient for sustainable cleaning and disinfection.

For more information: www.purac.com/homecare

As of May 2010, PURAC Sanilac is permitted by the EPA for use as a FIFRA active ingredient for DfE labeled products.

New I&I Ingredients Here is a list of new ingredients introduced by industry suppliers during the past 12 months. To learn more about any of the materials listed here, contact the supplier directly using the information provided. Ashland Specialty Ingredients Wilmington, DE Tel: +44 1737 377014 Email: [email protected] Website: www.ispcleaning.com Jaypol HN44 dispersant for HI&I cleaners Description: Partially neutralized acrylic acid homopolymer Applications: Household and industrial cleaners and fabric care products Use levels: 2-6% w/w in liquid formulations Attributes: Low molecular weight sodium polyacrylate homopolymer that excels at scale formation prevention, precipitate dispersion and anti-soil redeposition. Jaypol S44 dispersant for HI&I cleaners Description: Solution of a sodium salt of an acrylic polymer in water Applications: Household and industrial cleaners and fabric care products Use levels: 2-6% w/w in liquid formulations Attributes: Low molecular weight sodium polyacrylate homopolymer that excels at scale formation prevention, precipitate dispersion and anti-soil redeposition. Chromabond series of dye transfer inhibitors Description: poly(4-vinylpyridinium)based inhibitors Applications: Laundry detergents Use levels: 0.2-0.5% w/w as supplied Attributes: The Chromabond series of dye transfer inhibitors offer excellent value while boasting outstanding bleach stability, especially at higher concentrations. Tolerant of high concentrations of anionic surfactants, it performs very well in neutral pH systems while maintaining efficacy in hard water and at elevated temperatures.

BASF Florham Park, NJ Tel: 973-245-7940 86 • happi

Email: [email protected] Website: www.basf.com Dehypon Wet Description: Modified fatty alcohol polyglycolether Applications: Hard surface cleaning, machine dish wash Use levels: 0.5 to 5% active Comments: An optimized surfactant that due to its excellent wetting behavior results in fast action. Cleaners requiring this fast action together with low foam behavior such as automatic cleaners, floor cleaners rinse aids, and cleaning wipes are the target application areas. Lutropur MSA Description: Methane sulfonic acid Applications: Acid cleaners for CIP and scale removal Use levels: 0.5-10% Comments: High purity methanesulfonic acid that has no odor or toxic gases, and is less corrosive than many other acids. It is readily biodegradable and as a strong organic acid allows for rapid scale desolution. In addition its salts are highly soluble. Trilon M Description: Methyl glycine diacetic acid Applications: Chelant Use levels: 0.1-20% active Comments:Trilon M is the only chelant currently listed on CleanGredients approved for DfE. Its high efficiency on inorganic, organic scale and organic soils and low molecular weight make it a cost effective alternative to traditional chelants.

Chemrez Technologies Inc. Manila, Philippines Tel: +6326350680 Email: [email protected] Website: www.chemrez.com Savonel 868 Description: Potassium cocoate happi.com

Applications: Sulfate-free surfactant that is mild and gentle on skin. Gives excellent sensorial properties—good foam volume, easy rinse-off and leaves a silky feeling to the skin. Use levels: 30% to 60% Comments: Sulfate free primary surfactant; readily biodegradable; ultra mild and excellent after feel; derived from 100% renewable and sustainable feedstock; wide compatibility with all types surfactants

Croda Inc Edison, NJ Tel: 732-417-0800 Email: [email protected] Website: www.croda.com/homecare Crosolv G Description: Blend of nonionic esters Applications: Industrial and kitchen degreasers, hand cleaner/sanitizer, grill/hood cleaner, laundry pre-spotter Use levels: Low dosage level Comments: Crosolv G is a green, nonvolatile solvent that is easy to handle and promotes worker safety. It performs similarly to d-Limonene but is biodegradable, a nonirritant, has low odor, and complies with SCAQMD regulations. Crodasol WS Description: Alkoxylated alcohols Applications: Aerosol air fresheners, glass cleaners, RTU hard surface cleaners Use levels: Low dosage level Comments: Crodasol WS is an effective, fast dissolving universal fragrance solubilizer well suited for products classes where low levels of surfactant are used. Crodasol WS quickly solubilizes a broad range of fragrance classes in water-based systems.

DuPont Tate & Lyle Bio Products Wilmington, DE November 2011

New I&I Ingredients Tel: 302-999-2390 Email: [email protected] Website: duponttateandlyle.com/products_ zemea_cleaning.php Zemea Propanediol Description: Propanediol Applications: Bio-based natural solvent and enzyme stabilizer for liquid laundry, liquid hand and automatic dish detergents, carpet and rug cleaners, hard surface cleaners, glass cleaner formulations, enzyme stabilization, etc. Use levels: Varies by application Comments: Zemea propanediol is a colorless and highly pure glycol derived from a sustainable and renewable corn sugar fermentation process. It is the perfect glycol solution for formulations where nonpetroleum based ingredients are desired. Certifications include NPA (Natural Products Association) for home care products, approved solvent under the US EPA’s Design for the Environment (DfE) program, certified by USDA as 100% bio-based, and approved by the EPA for use as an inert ingredient in non-food use pesticide products.

November 2011

Lonza Inc. Allendale, NJ Tel: 855-849-1039 Email: [email protected] Website: www.lonzabiocides.com Disinfectant Wipes Plus Description: Quaternary ammonium based formulation Applications: Hard surface disinfection for healthcare, household, jan/san and others Use levels: Ready to use Attributes: Fast-acting, market leading efficacy, low VOC, market under your own brand.

Rhodia Member of the Solvay Group Cranbury, NJ Tel: 609-860-4000 Email: [email protected] Website: www.rhodia.com Rhodiasolv Inﬁnity Description: Rhodiasolv Infinity is a blend of dibasic ester solvent and proprietary surfactants Applications: Rhodiasolv Infinity is highly

happi.com

•

effective water dilutable microemulsion concentrate for an industrial all-purpose and general cleaner as degreasing, floor cleaning, ink clean up, aircraft, clean up (dlimonene extender), graffiti removers, paint strippers, institutional laundry and laundry prespotters. Use levels: >5% Comments: Meets LVP-VOC exemption criteria established by CARB for consumer and institutional products. Mirapol Surf-S P-free Power Description: Proprietary Applications: Autodish Use levels: 0.2-2% Comments: A highly concentrated surface modification polymer delivered on a sodium carbonate substrate, P-free Power delivers rinse aid benefits in the detergent! P-free Power provides a spot and streak free shine and makes the next cleaning easier.

Sea-Land Chemical Co. Westlake, OH Tel: 440-871-7887 Website: www.sealandchem.com

happi • 87

• New I&I Ingredients Email: [email protected] Levenol F-200 Description: Glycereth-6 cocoate Applications: Dishwashing, laundry care, surface care Use levels: As required for formulation. Comments: Nonionic vegetable-derived surfactant with low eco-toxicological profile. Used as emulsifier, detergent and extracts and fragrances solubilizer.

Spectra Colors Corporation Kearny, NJ Tel: 800-527-8588 Email: [email protected] Website: www.SpectraColors.com SpectraRinse Description: Yellows: Azo, Reds: Phenyl Azo, Blues: Triphenyl Applications: Detergents, children’s products, markers, dry erase, ink, triple foam car wash, textile coating, stamp pad Use levels: up to 15% Comments: Staining problems are no longer a limiting factor when trying to ob-

tain bold colors. SpectraRinse dyes are bright concentrated liquid dye products. They are safe, environmentally friendly and highly rinsable/washable from skin and most fabrics and provide the deepest saturated shades of color.

Stepan Company Northfield, IL Tel: 847-745-7837 (US Technical Service) Email: [email protected] Website: www.stepan Bio-Soft GSB-9 Description: Proprietary nonionic blend Applications: Dyeing assistant, emulsifier and wetting agent for multiple hard surface cleaning applications Use levels: Varies, 1-20% Comments: Quick dissolution time, no gel phase when added to cold water, comparable in cleaning performance to NP-9, listed on www.cleangredients.org Steposol M-8-10 Description: N,N-dimethylcapramide Applications: Aqueous and non-aqueous

hard surface cleaning, co-solvent, replacement solvent Use levels: 1-100% dependent on application Comments: Unique class of di-substituted amides made from biorenewable short chain (C8-10) methyl esters, >300 KB Value, LVPVOC, Not a HAP, Readily Biodegradable

thermPhos USA Red Bank, NJ Tel: 877-888-4425 Email: [email protected] Website: www.thermphos.com Dequest LTMP Description: Lysine tetra(methylene) phosphonate Applications: I&I and home cleaning applications Comments: Based on the functionalization of the renewable raw material Lysine, LTMP has renewable carbon level of 60% and a functionality perfect for I&I applications such as laundry, autodish, and bottle washing.•

® DEQUEST LTMP Lysine tetra(methylene) phosphonate

Based on the functionalization of the renewable raw material Lysine, LTMP has renewable carbon level of 60% and a functionality perfect for I&I applications such as laundry, autodish, and bottle washing.

c/o 702 Clydesdale Avenue Anniston, AL 36201-5390 U.S.A. [email protected] tel. Toll free +1 877 888 4425

88 • happi

happi.com

November 2011

Recent Patent Applications

For Hair Care Polymers Recent patent applications reveal interesting advances in technologies relating to the use of polymers in hair care. Learn how polymers can enhance fragrance, impact foam, improve conditioning, aid color retention and more. Robert Y. Lochhead, Willis Byrd, Lauren LaBeaud and Kimberly Page The Institute for Formulation Science, The School of Polymers & High Performance Materials The University of Southern Mississippi

A

T THE INSTITUTE FOR Formulation Sci-

ence, we monitor patents and patenting as part of our current awareness activities for the Partnership for Innovation. In this article we have selected interesting advances that have been reported in recently published US Patent Applications. Rhodia and Procter & Gamble researchers have come up with block copolymers that enhance foam in detergent systems.1 These are block copolymers comprising a cationic block and a nonionic block. A broad range of chemistries are disclosed, but the exemplified polymers consist of blocks of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and hydroxyethylmethacrylate and triblock copolymers that also contain acrylic or methacrylic acids. Block copolymers offer the amphipathic properties of surfactants but on a larger scale. We can expect an increase in the prominence and diversity of block copolymers as a direct result of the introduction of living free radical polymerization techniques. It might be interesting to speculate on the mechanism whereby these polymers enhance foam. Foams are formed when surfactant molecules diffuse to and adsorb at an expanding liquid/air interface. Polymer molecules diffuse slowly—too slowly to adsorb at the expanding interface in the instant before it collapses.Therefore, it is reasonable to deduce that these polymers stabilize foam that is initially formed by adsorption of surNovember 2011

factant at the interface. Foams collapse by two main mechanisms; draining of the liquid and puncture of the lamellae. The foam lamellae are the junctions between two foam bubble cells and the Plateau Border is situated at the triple-cell junction. The Laplace pressure in the liquid components of the foam is inversely proportional to the curvature of the interface.The higher curvature of the plateau border results in a lower pressure in that region, causing the liquid in the foam to drain preferentially from the lamellae to the plateau borders. Based upon this reasoning, it can be understood that drainage can be hindered in two ways, namely by blockage of the lamellae or by blockage at the plateau border. About two decades ago, Des Goddard carefully measured the drainage from foam films and he deduced that polyquaternium24 adsorbed across the lamellar interface and hindered the drainage of liquid from the foam. About 30 years ago, Stig Friberg concluded that certain liquid crystals blocked the plateau border region and thus delayed foam drainage and conferred longer-term stability on surfactant foams. In the case of the Rhodia polymers, hindered drainage of the lamellar liquid could be caused by adsorption of the cationic entities at the lamellar surface with the nonionic and/or anionic blocks in the lamellar liquid.Alternatively, formation of phase-separated coacervates between the cationic polymer and the anionic surfactant could rehappi.com

sult in blockage of the plateau border. Of course, if the interaction of the cationic polymer is strong enough to form“inverse micellar” structures, then the phase-separated particles could cause a local reversal of the curvature in the lamellae, resulting in breakage of the lamellar film and subsequent foam destabilization. This limit could be a reason for the specified maximum cationic charge density in the written description and in claims of the patent application.This type of foam destabilization mechanism has been extensively reported by Peter Garrett. It would be interesting to conduct careful film drainage and phase studies on these systems to understand precisely how they work.

Solid Foams One of our previous articles included P&G’s revelation of easily dissolvable, porous solid shampoos.This line of research has been extended to provide delivery of cationic conditioners that would normally be incompatible with liquid shampoos and enhanced delivery of these actives to the keratin substrate. Another claimed advantage of porous solids is the ability to have one scent for the solid and then to allow a second different fragrance to bloom when the solid was wetted by water.2 The porous solids are made by mixing the surfactants, glycerin as plasticizer and water in the presence of a water soluble polymer. The working example shows poly(vinyl alcohol) as this water-soluble polymer, but the invention is not restricted happi • 89

• Hair Care Polymers

to this polymer; a wide range of synthetic and natural polymers may be used. After a heating and mixing cycle, the porous solid is formed by aeration.

Enhancing Fragrance The aroma of fragrance can be prolonged by encapsulation. It has now been claimed that certain cationic capsules are retained to a larger extent than nonionic capsules.3 The cationic urethane capsules are prepared by reacting 2-hydrazino-N,N,N- trimethyl-2oxoetanammonium chloride with a solvent –free di-isocyanate base on hexamethylene diisocyanate. The capsules are prepared to consist of a core of a urethane protected aqueous phase dispersed in a continuous fragrance oil phase that is surrounded by a crosslinked polyurethane shell.

Enhancing Mildness Isethionates have been known as mild surfactants for at least three decades; they have been the basis of non-soap detergent bars such as Dove. Recently, Unilever researchers discovered that the mildness can be enhanced by including mildness benefit agents that can be flocculated by cationic polymers present in the formulation and delivered as flocs upon dilution of the formulation.4 The preferred benefit agent in this case is petrolatum and the cationic polymers are well known polymers like polyquaternium-10 and guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. This could form the basis of shampoos that are mild to the skin.

Conditioning Shampoos Cationic guar has been a known additive for 2-in-1 shampoos for more than three decades. However, it has now been shown that improved post-shampoo detangling times are achieved by including a small degree of hydrophobic substitution in the cationic guar derivatives.5 The hydrophobe is added by the well-known ring opening of the appropriate glycidyl ether. A conditioning shampoo that contains a conditioning gel phase in the form of vesicles is described by Unilever researchers.6 Cationic conditioners are usually incompatible with anionic shampoos and, as a conse90 • happi

quence, conditioners based upon cationic surfactants are usually applied as separate post-shampoo products. The Unilever researchers prepared a conditioning gel phase by combining a small amount of water, fatty alcohol, a long-chain secondary anionic surfactant (sodium cetostearyl sulfate) and a long-chain cationic surfactant (behenyltrimethylammonium chloride) and subjecting the mixture to high shear to form a stable vesicular gel phase. Prolonged shear causes the lamellar gel phase to“roll-up”into an array of multilamellar vesicles. The gel phase was added to a dilute primary surfactant solution (sodium laureth sulfate) to form a conditioning shampoo, which conferred good wet smoothness on hair. Freeze-Thaw stability can still be a problem for concentrated or vesicular phases.The subject of freeze-thaw stability in this context is addressed by Rhodia researchers who have developed new hydrophobically modified alkali swellable (HASE) in which the hydrophobes are specially designed macromonomers.7

Rheology Modifiers Rhodia also revealed HASE thickeners with improved clarity and improved resistance to salt. These polymers, based upon the conventional methacrylic acid/ethylacetate system have “associative” monomers that are bicycloheptyl polyethers and long chain polyethers.8 It has also been shown that mixtures of certain cationic polysaccharides and anionic HASE polymers can give systems with enhanced viscosity stability with respect to increased ionic strength and also to elevated temperatures.9 Acryloyl taurate thickeners have improved resistance to salt but, according to Shiseido scientists, these polymers have a sticky feel which can be ameliorated by copolymerizing acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonate with hydroxyethyl methacrylate and an appropriate crosslinker.10 Carbomers are crosslinked polyacrylic acid prepared by precipitation polymerization. Carbomer technology was developed by BF Goodrich (now Lubrizol). It is interesting that a BASF patent application is directed to the preparation of carbomers using the same happi.com

monomer, same crosslinker, and same solvent mixture as the BF Goodrich technology. The BASF patent application reveals a quicker process can be realized by the use of two initiators in sequence with a deliberate temperature change during the reaction.11 There are many rheology modifiers available to the personal care formulator, but a recent trend has been directed toward multifunctional polymers, especially to rheology modifiers with film-forming fixative properties. BASF has contributed to this trend by revealing copolymers of acrylic acid, N-vinylpyrrolidone, a cationic monomer (preferably N-vinylimidazole), and a hydrophobic monomer which may be an long chain ester of methacrylic acid having an ethoxylated spacer chain, preferably PEG-25 methacrylate.12 Such rheology modifiers disperse rapidly in aqueous systems of pH 6-8 to yield gels with hair fixative properties.

Hair Pomades Whipped emulsions are divulged by a L’Oréal researcher to provide all the benefits of a pomade but with improved elasticity.13 The products are formed by using two polysaccharide emulsifiers and a gelling agent. One of the emulsifiers is xanthan gum and the other is a mannan polymer (this includes a wide range of polymers including guar, locust bean gum and pectin). The gellant may be carbomer or an acryloyl taurate thickener. Longer-lasting conditioning silicone quaternaries have long been known as hair conditioning compounds. A recent patent application from Evonik Goldschmidt is directed to silicone quats that confer conditioning with longer lasting conditioning through several shampoo cycles.14 The premise is that long-term substantivity to hair requires the conditioning agent to contain a string of cationic charges. Evonik Goldschmidt achieved this by polymerizing cationic monomers and grafting them to silicone backbones. In general, watersoluble monomers polymerized in the presence of silicones yield a mixture of water-soluble polymers and unsubstituted silicones because the two ingredients are incompatible and attachment of the polyNovember 2011

Hair Care Polymers

mer chain to the silicone would require appropriate“coupling groups.” Evonik Goldschmidt researchers rose to the challenge by polymerizing the cationic monomers in the presence of silicone polyethers. The ether groups are compatible with the quat monomers and they readily chain transfer to give graft copolymers. Once grafted, the copolymers are quaternized to confer permanent positive charges with enhanced substantivity to hair.The grafts are obtained by polymerizing the readily available monomers, dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate or 3-trimethylammoniopropyl methacrylamide.

Fixatives Biopolymer latex may be produced by crosslinking starch with glyoxal (for example in an extruder) followed by cryogenic grinding. Such biopolymer latexes are revealed by Honeywell to be suitable hair fixatives with the benefit that the polymers are derived from natural and sustainable resources.15

Hair Coloring Conventional conditioning agents are incompatible with hair dye formulations. Dow researchers have revealed that they have resolved the need to simultaneously color and condition the hair by the addition of ethylene acrylic acid copolymers optionally in combination with a metallocene polymerized polyolefin.16 The addition of one percent polymer provided advantages in wet combing benefits. The oxidizing agents used in hair colorants damage hair fibers. Moreover, the rapid kinetics of oxidation can cause uneven coloring of the hair, especially when long preparation procedures are involved such as in selective highlighting. Encapsulating the oxidation precursors with polymethacrylates, poly(vinylacetate)s or shellac results in a more uniform coloring process.17

Conclusions Our review of recent patent applications revealed interesting advances in technologies relating to the use of polymers in hair care: 1. Block copolymers continue to make inroads into personal care products. In this case we identified the proposed use of November 2011

cationic/nonionic block copolymers to stabilize surfactant foams. 2. Solid, easily dispersible foams offer advantages with respect to improved 2-in-1 conditioning over conventional liquid systems and the capability to build in stimuliresponsive fragrance attributes. 3. Super-mild detergent systems are claimed from the inclusion of cationic polymer induced flocs of petrolatum in isethionate-based systems. 4.Vesicular gel phase conditioners can be included in anionic shampoos for 2-in-1 cleaning and conditioning. 5. There are some advances in rheology modifiers mainly around the inclusion of complex hydrophobes within the associative thickeners. 6. The trend toward multi-purpose thickeners continues with a rheology modifier that contains vinylpyrrolidone monomer to confer additional film-forming characteristics. 7. Longer-lasting silicone conditioning of colored hair is claimed from graft copolymers of dimethylaminomethacrylate on a silicone ether backbone. 8. Encapsulation of hair coloring precursors is advanced as a way to achieve more consistent coloring and to mitigate hair damage due to the coloring process.

References 1. Yeung, Dominic Wai-Kwing; Bergeron, Vance; Bodet, Jean-Francois; Sivik, Mark Robert; Kluesener Bernard William; Scheper, William Michael;“Polymers, compositions and methods for use for foams, laundry detergents, shower rinses and coagulants,” US Patent Application 20110257015, Oct. 20, 2011, Assignee Rhodia Inc. 2. Glenn, JR., Robert Wayne; Kaufman, Kathleen Mary; Dunbar, James Charles; Gardlik, John Michael; Murphy; Bryan Patrick;“Porous, Dissolvable Solid Substrate and Surface Resident Coating Comprising Water Sensitive Actives,”US Patent Application 20110195098, Aug. 11, 2011; US Patent Application 20110189247, Aug. 4, 2011; US Patent Application 20110189246, Aug. 4, 2011; US Patent Application 20110182956, July 28, 2011; US Patent Application 20110182956, July 28, 2011. 3. Ouali, Lahoussine; Jacquemond, Marlene; “Microcapsules and uses thereof,”US Patent Application 20110230390, Sept. 22, 2011. 4.Tsaur, Liang Sheng; Ananthapadmanabhan, Kavssery P.; “Personal Wash Cleanser Comprising Defined Alkanoyl Compounds, Defined Fatty happi.com

•

Acyl Isethionate Surfactant Product and Skin or Hair Benefit Agent Delivered in Flocs Upon Dilution,” US Patent Application 20110245125, Oct. 6, 2011, assignee Conopco, Inc., dba Unilever. 5. Baldaro, Eva; Bouzeloc, Sylvie; Postiaux, Stephanie; Schirosi, Esterina; Soontjens, Dirk; Ugazio, Stephane;“Home And Personal Care Compositions,” US Patent Application 20110189248, Aug. 4, 2011. 6. Cooke, Michael James; Pham, Thuy-Anh; Murray, Andrew Malcolm;“Conditioning shampoo comprising an aqueous conditioning gel phase in the form of vesicles,”US Patent Application 20110243870, Oct. 6, 2011. 7. Hough, Lawrence Alan; Bzducha, Wojciech; Herve, Pascal; Hennaux, Pierre; O’Rourke, Mary; Park, Ericka;“Compositions with freeze thaw stability;” US Patent Application 20110223125; assignee Rhodia Operations 8. Houg,; Lawrence; Bzducha, Wojciech; Herve, Pascal; Hennaux, Pierre; Douglass, Andrew; Adamy, Monique; Gonzalez, Inigo; Rheology modifier polymer; US Patent Application 20110243873, Oct. 6, 2011; assignee Rhodia Operations 9.Talingting Pabalan, Ruela; Martinez-Castro, Nemesio; Kesavan, Subramanian; Labeau, Marie Pierre; “Rheology modifier compositions and methods of use,” US Patent App. 20110256085, Oct. 20, 2011; assignee Rhodia Operations. 10. Sogabe, Atsushi; Kaneda, Isamu; “Water Soluble Thickener And Cosmetic Preparation Containing Same;” US Patent Application 20110237752, Sept. 29, 2011; assignee Shiseido Company, LTD 11. Nguyen Kim Son; Jahnel, Wolfgang; “Method for producing cross-linked acrylic acid polymers;”US Patent Application 20110158929, June 30, 2011; assignee BASF SE. 12. Nguyen, Kim Son; Fast, Ina; Werner, Rolf; “Anionic associative rheology modifiers,” US Patent App. 20110218295, US Patent App. 20110218296, Sept. 8, 2011; assignee BASF SE 13. Hunter, Nikisha; “Whipped composition for the treatment of keratin fibers,” US Patent App. 20110224309, Sept. 15, 2011; assigned to L’Oréal. 14. Kuppert, Dirk; Ferenz, Michael; Schwab, Peter; Knott, Wilfried; Silber, Stefan; “NitrogenContaining Organosilicon Graft Copolymers,” US Patent Application 20110230619, Sept. 22, 2011. Assignee Evonik Goldschmidt GMBH 15. Wheeler, Mark Richard; Orawski, Philip; Higuera, Malena; Mores, Lee; “Hair fixatives comprising cross linked starches,”US Patent App. 20110212145, Sept. 1, 2011, assignee Honeywell International Inc. 16. Jordan, Susan L; Schwartz, Curtis;“Personal care compositions for coloring hair,” US Patent Application 20110236334, Sept. 29, 2011. 17. Welz, Carolin; Manneck, Hartmut; Kleen, Astrid; Akram, Mustafa, “Coated Coloring Agents,” US Patent App. 20110247149, Oct. 13, 2011. • happi • 91

Versathix: An Ideal Rheology Modifier Croda researchers detail the benefits of using a high performance thickener that provides efficient viscosity building and desirable rheology across a wide variety of surfactant combinations that are common in shampoos and other personal cleansing systems. Farahdia Edouard and Marni Dexter • Croda Inc

T

is too thin or too viscous for its application, external forces.1 In other words, rheology can face when formulating personal the consumer can be turned off before even refers to the way in which a material becare cleansers including product per- using it. Have you ever purchased a haves when force is applied to it. It also formance, feel properties, foam and rheol- cleanser, went to use it in the shower, and plays an essential role in the aesthetics of ogy. Whether consumers are concerned had it run through your fingers and down personal care formulations. There are four with treating conditions such as acne or the drain? Certainly, many of us have expe- key elements to consider when analyzing dandruff, or are interested in simply keep- rienced this, and as a result, never pur- the rheological behavior of a material, ing clean, formulators of these surfactant chased this product again. Rheology namely shear flow, shear stress, shear rate systems must take the consumer’s desired modifiers, a variety of which exist in the and viscosity. In formulating cleansing attributes into consideration in order to de- market, solve this problem. products, shear stress and viscosity are the Most people, including many formula- two most important parameters to consider. liver products with appealing characteristics. The US personal care cleansing market tors, often mistake rheology to mean vis- The action of rubbing a body wash onto the was valued at $5.5 billion in 2010, with $2.1 cosity. It is actually much more than that. hands, massaging shampoo onto the hair, billion from shampoos, approximately $2 Rheology is the study of the deformation or even applying sunscreen or lotion to the billion from body washes, and $1.4 billion and flow of materials under the influence of skin, demonstrates the concept of shear from facial cleansers, according to EuromonTraditional Sulfate-Free itor; therefore, understanding the challenges Table 1 of formulating these ALES /ALS Base SLES Base APG Base Croda Shampoo Base systems is crucial for success in this very Surfactants 5% Ammonium Laureth 7% Sodium Laureth 6% Decyl 6% Sodium Lauroyl Sulfate Sulfate Polyglucoside Sarcosinate (active basis) competitive market3% Ammonium Lauryl 3% Cocamidopropyl 3% Cocamidopropyl 6% Cocamidopropyl place. Sulfate Betaine Betaine Betaine Rheology is one of 2% Cocamidopropyl 2% Sodium Lauroyl 6.5% Cocamidopropyl the most important Betaine Sarcosinate Hydroxysultaine characteristics of a per1.5% Cocamidopropylamine sonal care cleanser in Oxide terms of consumer ap2% Thickener peal; although achiev0% and 0.75% Salt ing the ideal rheological q.s. Water properties for a given product can prove diffiAmmonium Laureth Sulfate active-24.5-26.5% /NH4Cl-1%; Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate active-28-31%/ NH4Cl-0.5%; Cocamidopropyl Betaine active-30%/NaCl-4.7-5.1%; Sodium Laureth Sulfate active-27.5-31.5%-/NaCl-1.0%; cult. If the rheology is Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate active-30%; Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine active-50%/NaCl-5-7%; not ideal, if the product Cocamidopropylamine Oxide active-100% HERE ARE A NUMBER OF challenges one

92 • happi

happi.com

November 2011

Rheology Modifier

•

Figure 1

60,000

ALES/ALS Base with 2% Thickener

SLES Base with 2% Thickener

50,000 Brookfield Viscosity (cps)

40,000 More Efficient Thickening

30,000 20,000 10,000 0

No Salt

0.75% Salt

No Salt

0.75% Salt

VERSATHIX

PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate

PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate (and) PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides (and) Water

Control

stress. Viscosity is generally re- Table 2 ferred to as the“thickness”of a Scoop n’ Soap Scoopable Bubble Bath material. It is a measure of the resistance of a material to ﬂow, Ingredients % w/w and its dimensions are PascalPart A seconds (Pa∙s). Another comWater 57.85 Part B mon unit for measuring Sulfochem ES-3 (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) 25.00 viscosity is centipoises (cps) CRODATERIC CAB 30-LQ (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) 9.70 (1cP = 10-3 Pa.s). Overall, rhePROMIDIUM 2 (PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Coco/Isostearamide) 3.00 ology illustrates what occurs Part C when a substance is ﬂowing Sodium Chloride 1.75 and how it recovers when it Part D VERSATHIX (PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate (and) PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl 2.50 stops ﬂowing. Cocamide (and) Water) The relationship between Part E the rheological parameters dePreservative 0.20 scribed here differs for materials that exhibit either Viscosity: ~150,000 cps Newtonian or Non-NewtonProcedure ian behavior. A material for Add Part B ingredients to Part A with gentle mixing. Heat Part A/B to 45-50°C and add Part C which the viscosity is constant and then Part D with gentle mixing. Begin cooling and add Part E. Adjust pH if necessary. due to a linear relationship between shear stress and shear rate is de- that is nice and viscous in a bottle, able to are used to modify the ﬂow characteristics scribed as Newtonian. For example, water extrude through a small opening, and then of a surfactant formulation, they are often is Newtonian as it remains ﬂuid no matter retain its thickness in your hand. During used in conjunction with another thickener. how much force is exerted on it. In contrast, use, the product will spread nicely onto the They are rarely used as the primary ingrethe viscosity of non-Newtonian ﬂuids such skin or hair. On the other hand, a shear dient to build viscosity in a formulation. as shampoos, body washes and other thickening material is one in which viscosAs one of the common categories of cleansers is not constant. The viscosity ity will increase with increasing shear rate. rheology modiﬁers, natural gums, such as Rheology modiﬁers, materials that can xanthan gum and guar gum, are typically changes as a function of the shear rate. Some non-Newtonian ﬂuids exhibit a de- affect the ﬂow behavior of a formulation in used at very low use levels because higher crease in viscosity as the shear rate in- the ways described above, are generally concentrations of these products in a forcreases. This phenomenon is referred to as grouped into the following categories: nat- mula would negatively impact its aesthetshear thinning. This shear thinning rheol- ural gums, modiﬁed naturals, synthetics ics, resulting in a pituitous feel and ogy enables the consumer to use a product and inorganics.2 Although these materials appearance. In addition, these materials November 2011

happi.com

happi • 93

• Rheology Modifier

Figure 2

2,500

Croda Shampoo Base with 2% Thickener

APG Base with 2% Thickener

2,000 Brookfield 1,500 Viscosity (cps) 1,000

More Efficient Thickening

500 0

No Salt

No Salt

0.75% Salt

PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate

PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate (and) PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides (and) Water

Control

can be difficult to use, as they need to be dispersed in water and hydrated; they cannot simply be dropped into a formulation. Another commonly used thickener, sodium chloride, common salt, is an inexpensive and accessible ingredient. However, its performance in different surfactant systems can be problematic and unpredictable. For example, salt will thicken a

system up to a certain electrolyte concentration, but once the salt curve is reached, further additions of salt will cause the viscosity to plummet. In addition, some primary surfactants (i.e. sulfates) already contain a level of salt in them, which can vary from one supplier to the next. Therefore, it can be difficult to predict when the formula will reach its salt curve. Salt can

Table 3 Shear Suds Sulfate Free Shampoo with Versathix Ingredients

% w/w

Part A Water Crodasinic LS-30 (Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate) Crodateric CAB 30 (Cocamidopropyl betaine) Incromine Oxide C (Cocamidopropylamine oxide) Crodateric CAS 30 (Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine) Part B Arlasilk PLN (Linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate dimethicone) Versathix (PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate (and) PPG-2 hydroxyethyl

33.86 20.00 20.00 5.00 13.00 2.00 3.00

cocamide (and) water)

Part C Arlasilk PTM (Myristamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate) Crodarom Papyrus (Water (and) glycerin (and) cyperus papyrus stem extract) Fragrance Methylisothiazolinone FD&C Red 33 (0.1% solution)

1.00 1.00 1.00 0.10 0.04

pH: 6.59 ± 0.5; Viscosity: 7,500 cps ± 10% (Brookfield RVT @ 10 rpm, spindle TC, 25°C) Procedure Charge Part A into a vessel and mix. Heat the batch to 55°C and add Part B with mixing. Cool the batch to 40°C and add Part C with mixing.

94 • happi

0.75% Salt

VERSATHIX

happi.com

also negatively impact certain aesthetic properties such as clarity and rheology. Too much salt added to a surfactant formula can result in haziness, or an unappealing gellike or pituitous/stringy consistency. Furthermore, salt has very little effect on sulfate-free systems, which can be very difficult to thicken. Although there are many rheology modifiers currently used in the personal care cleansing market, many have a negative impact in one aspect or another of the surfactant formulation. Some of these shortcomings can be related to the ease of dispersion of the ingredient or other undesirable aesthetics. Some of the ideal attributes that a rheology modifier should exhibit include the ability to easily control viscosity and other rheological properties of the formulation, ease of use, good performance across a wide range of surfactant systems, a broad pH range, and high active content enabling the formulator to use lower concentration levels and still achieve positive end results.

An Ideal Rheology Modifier In an effort to meet all the characteristics of an ideal rheology modifier for surfactant systems, Croda has developed Versathix (INCI: PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate (and) PPG-2 hydroxyethyl cocamide (and) water). Versathix is a high performance thickener that provides efficient viscosity November 2011

Rheology Modifier

•

building and desirable rheologyFigure 3 across a wide variety of surfactant combinations relevant for shamComparative Rheology in ALES/ALS Base poos and other cleansing systems. The material is supplied as a 70% 100 active liquid product, with a use pH Formulation begins range of 4 to 9, and recommended to shear thin usage levels between 1% and 5% w/w.Versathix is covered under US 10 patent No. 6,531,443. Viscosity Versathix builds viscosity effi(Pa.s) ciently in both traditional, as well as sulfate-free systems, which for1 mulators often find challenging to thicken. Rheological and thickening properties of Versathix and other commonly used liquid thickeners on the market were evalu0.1 0.1 1 10 100 1000 ated in four different surfactant bases at various concentrations. Shear Rate (1/s) These systems were also tested with and without salt, at different VERSATHIX levels. Table 1 illustrates the sysPEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate (and) PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric tems that were evaluated. Glycerides (and) Water PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate Normally, sulfate-based surfactant systems are easier to thicken Control than other chassis. Salt is often used as the sole viscosity builder in The Scoop n’ Soap Scoopable Bubble the viscosity of sulfate-free bases at concensuch bases. In the traditional ALES/ALS base shown in Table 1,Versathix greatly out- Bath formula highlights the synergistic ef- trations greater than 2% without the addiperformed the other thickeners tested, with fect ofVersathix and salt in a sodium laureth tion of salt. At 3% active level in the Croda and without the presence of salt, as seen in sulfate base system to obtain a formula with shampoo base,Versathix thickens the system Figure 1. A significant thickening effect is very high viscosity. The ability of this highly to 11,000cps, a viscosity that is ideal for perseen with the addition of just 0.75% salt to viscous bubble bath formulation to shear sonal care cleansers. At 4% active,Versathix the system containing 2% Versathix. The thin on application makes it a very unique, yields a viscosity of 29,000cps. The Shear Suds Sulfate Free Shampoo viscosity of the base more than doubled niche product (Table 2). Sulfate-free systems are known to be with Versathix utilizes the same Croda from 15,500cps to 36,000cps, illustrating the synergistic effect betweenVersathix and salt difficult to thicken. Versathix has been shampoo base described in Table 1.The forshown to perform consistently well in mula contains 3% w/w ofVersathix, yields an in this traditional base. In the SLES base evaluated, the addition these formulations. At 2% active levels, aesthetically-pleasing, shear-thinning rheof 0.75% salt to the system with 2% Ver- Versathix outperformed all the other mar- ology, and imparts nice, voluminous foam sathix resulted in an impressive 15-fold in- ket thickeners tested, with and without that is difficult to attain in sulfate-free shamcrease in viscosity, once again highlighting salt, in both the APG base and the Croda poos (Table 3). the synergy between Versathix and salt in shampoo base shown in Figure 2. Although traditional surfactant systems (Figure 1). the impact of salt addition was not as sig- Shear The various thickener responses obtained nificant as in the traditional systems con- Although the viscosity response of a thickwhen formulating with Versathix demon- taining Versathix, the sulfate-free systems ener is important, the rheological behavior strate the versatility of this material in tra- with Versathix did exhibit an increase in of that material in a surfactant system is also ditional bases. It is possible to obtain ideal viscosity that was more substantial than a crucial criterion of consumer perception. shampoo or body wash viscosities with use the viscosity response seen with the other Rheology not only plays a role in the flow levels of less than 1% active Versathix in thickeners tested. behavior under shear stress but also conVersathix is able to significantly increase tributes to the sedimentation and thermal combination with low levels of salt. November 2011

happi.com

happi • 95

• Rheology Modifier

Figure 4 5 % V e rs a t h i x 5 % V e r s a t h ix in w a te r

Inflammation Increase

1% SLS

0.18

W a te r

0.16

1% SLS

2 .5 % V e r s a th ix

1 % V e r s a t h ix

0.14 0.12

1% SLS + 1% Versathix

0.1 0.08 0.06 0.04

Water

0.02

1% SLS + 1% SLS + 5% Versathix 2.5% Versathix

0

product has the added benefit of mitigating the irritation potential of sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) on human skin. A 17panelist clinical study was conducted to determine inflammation of the skin using a Laser Doppler, and the results can be seen in Figure 4. The image shows that 1% SLS solution causes more blood perfusion to the skin, which translates into severe inflammation compared to water, which acts as the control.The addition of 1%, 2.5% and 5% w/w ofVersathix to 1% SLS decreases the irritation potential. Levels of 2.5% and 5% show no significant difference from water.

Conclusion

No Inflammation

stability of a formula. Versathix exhibits excellent shear thinning behavior compared to other rheology modifiers in all the systems evaluated. The right rheology modifier enhances the consumer’s experience.

96 • happi

Versathix is an economical liquid thickener that shows excellent versatility across a wide Very Inflamed range of surfactant systems. It exhibits rheological properties Figure 3 compares the shear thinning that are consistent with consumer expectaproperties of Versathix to the other liquid tions and preference. The product has the thickeners that were tested in a sulfate base. benefits of cold processability, low pH staThe flow curves illustrated on the graph are bility and salt tolerance. It produces clear a measure of the change in the shear stress systems and counter-irritancy benefits, withas a result of the change in shear rate. This out negatively impacting in use attributes, relationship is plotted on a log-log scale.Ver- such as foam and feel. In summary, by prosathix begins to shear thin slightly before viding all these attributes, Versathix is an 10/s, which is ideal for surfactant formulas, ideal, versatile rheology modifier for surfacsuch as shampoos and body washes. The tant systems. • slight dip, which is circled on the graph, represents the point where the viscosity of the References 1. Hemi N. Naé,“Introduction to Rheology,”in system decreases as a result of the shear applied, such as when a shampoo is squeezed “Rheological Properties of Cosmetics and Toiletries,” edited by Dennis Laba, Marcel Dekker, out of a bottle during use. Although the Inc., NewYork, NY (1993), p. 9 graph shows that the control also begins to 2. Mary T. Clarke,“Rheological Additives,” in shear thin at the same point asVersathix, the “Rheological Properties of Cosmetics and Toiviscosity of the Versathix system is much letries,” edited by Dennis Laba, Marcel Dekker, greater. It is the outstanding thickening effi- Inc., NewYork, NY (1993), p. 57 ciency ofVersathix coupled with its superior shear thinning performance that makes it a To learn more about Versathix, more effective rheology modifier than all of contact Croda Inc; the other materials tested. Tel: 732-417-0800; In addition to the viscosity building and Email: [email protected]; rheological advantages of Versathix, this Website: www.croda.com/na/pc happi.com

November 2011

Meetings

CSPA ANNUAL MEETING IS DEC. 4-8 IN FLORIDA Nov. 9: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Members Only Luncheon, The Harvard Club, NewYork, NY. More info: www.cibsonline.com

Nov. 10-11: ICIS Surfactant Conferences, Singapore, China. More info: www.icisconference.com

Nov. 13-15: Private Label Manufacturers Association (PLMA) 2011 Private Label Trade Show, Rosemont Convention Center, Chicago, IL. More info: www.plma.com

Nov. 14-17: International Society for Nutraceuticals & Functional Foods (ISNFF) Annual Conference, Sapporo, Japan. More info: www.isnff.org

Nov. 15: The Fragrance Foundation Making Sense of Scents Career Guidance Fair, Baruch College Conference Center, NewYork, NY. More info: www.fragrance.org

Nov. 16: Clinical Roundtable, Steven Q. Wang M.D., Center for Dermal Research, Rutgers University Life Sciences Building Auditorium, Piscataway, NJ.

Major Meetings At a Glance Dec. 4-8: Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) 98th Annual Meeting, Marriott Harbor Beach Resort, Fort Lauderdale, FL. More info: www.cspa.org

Dec. 8-9: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Annual Meeting, New York Hilton, NewYork, NY. More info: www.scconline.org

2012 Jan. 30-Feb. 4: The American Cleaning Institute (ACI) Annual Meeting, Grand Lakes Marriott, Orlando, FL. More info: www.cleaninginstitute.org

Feb. 22-24: Personal Care Products Council Annual Meeting, The RitzCarlton, Naples, FL.

May 8-11: Personal Care Products Council Legal & Regulatory Conference, Charleston Place, Charleston, SC. More info: www.personalcarecouncil.org

May 15-16: NewYork Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Suppliers’ Day, The New Jersey Convention and Exposition Center, Raritan Center, Edison, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org

May 31-June 1: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Annual Scientific Seminar 2012, Charleston Marriott, Charleston, SC. More info: www.scconline.org

June 19-21: HBA Global Expo, Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York City. More info: www.hbaexpo.com

April 17-19: In-Cosmetics 2012, Hall 2, Gran Via, Fira Barcelona, Spain.

Oct. 15-18: International Federation of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) 27th Congress, Johannesburg, South Africa.

More info: www.in-cosmetics.com

More info: www.ifscc2012.co.za

More info: www.personalcarecouncil.org

More info: www.njbiomaterials.org

Nov. 17: Fragrance Foundation State of the Industry, Harvard Club, NewYork, NY. More info: www.fragrance.org

Nov. 17: New Jersey Packaging Executives Club (NJPEC) 2011 Package of theYear Awards Banquet and Exhibition, The Madison Hotel, Morristown, NJ. More info: www.njpec.com

Nov. 21: Center for Dermal Research Seminar Series: Jeff Mills, Ph.D., Esq., Challenges in patenting dermatologic innovations, Center for Dermal Research, Rutgers University Life Sciences Building Auditorium, Piscataway, NJ. More info: www.njbiomaterials.org

Dec. 1: Fragrance Foundation Celebrity Trends reception/panel discussion, Time/Life Building, NewYork, NY. More info: www.fragrance.org

Dec. 4-8: Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) 98th Annual Meeting, November 2011

Marriott Harbor Beach Resort, Fort Lauderdale, FL. More info: www.cspa.org

Dec. 5: CDR Seminar Series: Francois Berthiaume, Ph.D., Improved Matrices for Dermal Regeneration, Center for Dermal Research, Rutgers University Life Sciences Building Auditorium, Piscataway, NJ. More info: www.njbiomaterials.org

Dec. 7: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Continuing Education Courses, Ethnic Product Relaxer Formulation: a New Technological Approach and Innovation in Personal Care Products, Hilton NewYork, NewYork City.

Dec. 8-9: Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Meeting, NewYork Hilton, New York, NY. More info: www.scconline.org

Dec. 10-13: International Conference & Exhibition on Soaps, Detergents and Cosmetics, Nehru Centre, Mumbai, India. More info: www.isdconference.com

Dec. 13: Center for Dermal Research Webinar with Dr. William Welsh, Ph.D., UMDNJ. More info: www.njbiomaterials.org

Dec. 14: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) luncheon, The Manhattan Club, Rosie O’Grady’s, 800 7th Avenue, NewYork, NY.

More info: www.scconline.org

More info: www.cibsonline.com

Dec. 7-9: 2011 ScentWorld Expo, Gansevoort Hotel, Miami Beach, Florida.

Dec. 14-16: In-Cosmetics Asia, Bangkok, Thailand,

More info: http://scentmarketing.org

More info: www.in-cosmeticsasia.com •

happi.com

happi • 97

Financial News

L’ORÉAL’S SALES RISE 5% IN THE FIRST HALF • Paris-based beauty giant L’Oréal said group sales for the first half ended June 30, 2011 rose 5% to approximately $14.6 billion. “Organic growth in the first half of 2011 has confirmed the good dynamics of the group, which is further strengthening its worldwide positions, particularly in North America, in Latin America and in Asia Pacific,” said Jean-Paul Agon, chairman and CEO.“The first-half results are up, solid and of good quality. Gross profit is improving, despite the higher cost of raw materials. Operating margin is at a high level, and net profit is growing strongly. At the same time we are continuing to pave the way for the future with our ongoing policy of sustained investments in R&D and advertising & promotion business drivers. Finally, the group’s debt is particularly low.” Gross profit increased by 5.4%, and came out at 71.5% of sales, compared with 71.3% in the first half of 2010. Despite the unfavorable impact of higher raw material prices, the improved efficiency and productivity of the factories, good stock management and finally the positive conversion effect, resulting from the strengthening of the euro, have contributed to this further improvement, the company said. Operating profit, at 16.8% of sales, amounted to $2.4 billion. Research and development expenses have increased by 12.2%, reflecting the group’s “determination to step up its investments in research and innovation and, to a lesser extent, the integration of Q-Med,”said Agon. According to L’Oréal, the professional products division’s profitability has edged down from 21.2% to 19.8%. The profitability of the consumer products division, 20.1%, is slightly down on the first half of 2010, but is considerably higher than the full-year 2010 figure of 18.5%. The profitability of the luxury products division, at 18.9%, has grown strongly. 98 • happi

The active cosmetics division has again recorded very high profitability at 26.3%, the company said.

L’Oréal recently teamed up with “Project Runway” for a limited edition cosmetics line.

Blyth Sees 17% Sales Increase in Q2 •

Blyth, Inc. said net sales for the second quarter ended July 31, 2011 increased approximately 17% to $185.5 million due to significant year-over-year growth at ViSalus Sciences, the company’s weight management/nutritional supplement/energy drink unit, of which it owns 57.5%. Sales increased 13% on a local currency basis. International sales represented 44% of second quarter sales both this year and last year, the company said.

Nu Skin Reports Record Q2 Results •

Nu Skin Enterprises, Inc. posted record second-quarter results, with revenues rising 9% to $424.4 million. “We are pleased with our second-quarter results and are confident that our performance keeps us on track for another strong year,”said Truman Hunt, president and chief executive officer. “We continue to fuel our momentum by attracting new distributors, leveraging our exclusive ageLOC product portfolio, focusing on growth in our emerging markets, and consistently improving happi.com

profitability and shareholder value. We are also looking forward to the fall introduction of additional anti-aging products, which we anticipate will continue to drive consumer demand and steady business growth.” Second-quarter revenue in North Asia grew 12% to $183.1 million. Revenue was positively impacted 11% by foreign currency fluctuations. Local-currency revenue in South Korea increased 25%. As expected, Japan reported a 10% year-over-year decline, largely due to the impact of the natural disasters in March. The number of executive distributors in the region was up 6% and the number of active distributors was up 1% compared to the prior year. Revenue in Greater China declined 2% to $79.4 million for the quarter and was positively impacted 6% by foreign currency fluctuations. The decline was due to a very significant ageLOC product launch in the second quarter of 2010 that boosted revenue by approximately $25 million, contributing to a 53% increase reported in the prior year. Local-currency revenue in Mainland China improved 77%, Taiwan was down 8% and Hong Kong experienced a 61% decline. Individual market comparisons for the quarter were impacted by regional convention sales in Hong Kong in the prior year. Both the executive and active distributor numbers increased 14% compared to the prior-year period. Second-quarter revenue in the Americas was $59.8 million, compared to $62.4 million for the prior-year period. Revenue in the US and Canada declined 6% and 14%, respectively, while Latin America improved 21%. The number of executive distributors in the region declined 6% compared to the prior year, while the number of active distributors declined 2%. Revenue in South Asia/Pacific rose 29% to $59.2 million driven by 11% gains in foreign currency fluctuations. Quarterly revenue in Europe was $42.9 million, a 22% improvement. Results in the region were November 2011

Financial News

positively impacted approximately 14% by foreign currency fluctuations. Executive and active distributor counts in the region increased 7% and 8 percent, respectively, compared to the prior year. “Our strong first-half performance has laid the foundation for what we believe will be a solid second half of 2011,”said Hunt. “We anticipate the largest product launch in our history when we introduce new ageLOC products at our global distributor convention. We also continue to have high expectations for continued growth in emerging markets, particularly Mainland China and South Asia.”

Divine Skin Posts Record Quarterly Results •

Divine Skin Inc. posted its highest quarterly revenue, $2.33 million, in the second quarter, 79% ahead of last year. “One of our challenges has been keeping up with demand,” said Divine Skin

November 2011

CEO Daniel Khesin.“We have invested significant resources into setting up a more robust operations platform. Now we have the right people in the right jobs managing the right plans for procurement, manufacturing, and accounting infrastructure. We will therefore continue to scale up to much more impressive numbers.” The results come after a busy four months of announcements, including the naming of cosmetics veteran Robin Powell, respected for his success at Sebastian and Tigi, as president; growth in salon distribution, including new channels totaling thousands of additional doors both domestically and abroad and more, the company said.

Ulta Posts Q2 Gains • Ulta Beauty posted favorable ﬁnancial results for the second quarter and first six months, which ended July 30, 2011. For the second quarter, net sales increased 22.6% to $394.6 million. Compara-

happi.com

ble store sales (sales for stores open at least 14 months) rose 11.3%, while operating income leaped 78.2% to $39.7 million. Net income climbed 83.0% to $23.9 million. For the first six months, net sales rose 21.6% to $780.6 million. Comparable store sales increased 11.2%, and operating income improved 72.7% to $78.7 million. Net income rose 76.6% to $47.2 million. “We are pleased with our strong momentum and better-than-expected second quarter results, which we believe demonstrates Ulta’s increasing authority in beauty,”stated Chuck Rubin, president and chief executive officer of Ulta.“Specifically, we offer an affordable and fun beauty experience, a trend right product and service offering, exciting marketing that drives repeat purchases and a highly engaged team focused on providing fabulous customer service. We continue to expect fiscal 2011 to represent significant progress toward our long term goals.” •

happi • 99

New Products

TARTE DEBUTS STARLET MAKEUP VANITY FOR HOLIDAY 2011 • The Starlet Limited-Edition Makeup Vanity from Tarte ($52), a Sephora exclusive, is a mirrored kit chock full of holiday essentials, according to the company. This makeup vanity features meticulously crafted lustrous mirrored panels with beveled edges, sparkling silver inlays in each pullout drawer (lined in Tarte’s signature purple) and a large pop-up mirror. Each of the three removable trays contains a selection of high-performance natural Tarte products. The top and middle drawer hold 24 eyeshadows in a variety of shimmer This limited edition cosmetics kit is and matte textures broken down exclusively sold at Sephora. into six user-friendly shadow quads with shades ranging from Cameo (matte beige) to Stardom (blackened plum). Also tucked inside are deluxe-size samples of Tarte's bestselling Lights, Camera, Lashes! Clinically Proven Natural Mascara and MultiplEye Natural Lash Enhancing Primer. The bottom drawer boasts deluxe sizes of Tarte’s most coveted products: Amazonian Clay 12-Hour Blush in new shades Glory (shimmering peach) and Starlet (shimmering rose), Park Avenue Princess Mineral Powder Bronzer and Provocateur Amazonian Clay Shimmering Powder in Rose. More info: www.tartecosmetics.com

tracts are used for taste and aromatherapeutic benefits.The palette also includes a retractable lip brush. More info: http://janeiredale.com

Every Man Jack Rolls Out Shave Kit • Give the men in your life the total package with a grooming gift set from Every Man Jack. Ringing in at just $15, the new Shave Kit in Signature Mint come with five pieces to fulfill the grooming needs of every man on your list. The Shave Kit in Signature Mint features a face scrub, This men’s shave kit has a festive mint fragrance. blended with coconut-derived surfactants that remove dirt and oil; marine extracts and vitamin E to soothe and moisturize; and polyethylene beads to remove dry and dead skin; a low-foam shave cream with squalane, olive oil, chamomile and aloe; and post-shave face lotion. A bonus item is the Cooling Mint Lip Balm SPF 8. More info: www.EveryManJack.com

Thymes Bulks Up Frasier Fir Collection •

Chocoholicks Back for Holiday From Jane Iredale • This year for the holidays, Jane Iredale brings back a new edition of one of the brand’s bestselling products, Chocoholicks ($35). These chocolate truffle-flavored lipglosses were originally presented in 2009 in a gift box that resembled a box of truffles. Now, four new flavors (Blood Orange, Espresso, Very Berry and Chili Pepper) are presented in a palette that resembles a chocolate bar. The petroleum-free gloss uses pure-pressed peppermint oil to give lips high shine and hydration, without stickiJane Iredale brings back her coveted choco- ness. Natural flavoring from cocoa and fruit exlate-flavored lipgloss in a new set. 100 • happi

This reed diffuser is holiday ready with a pinecone look.

Thymes presents four new items to its bestselling Frasier Fir collection. Leading the pack is the Pinecone Reed Diffuser Set and Refill ($36). Inspired by the collection’s forest heritage, this pineconeshaped reed diffuser adds a festive touch to the home, filling the air with Frasier Fir’s crisp scent. More info: www.thymes.com

Too Faced’s In Your Dreams Gift Kit • Thanks to Too Faced, dreams really do come true! It’s In Your Dreams Face Palette Trio ($39) contains three complete looks each offering three eyeshadows, a luminous blush and a matching

happi.com

November 2011

New Products

tion Gift Set ($9.95). The duo (each is 4oz.) offers a bubbly treat for normal to dry skin via a refreshing scent of tart cranberries, fragrant oranges and sparkling champagne. Replenishing botanical extracts and oils are combined with antioxidants to nourish and hydrate the skin.

lip shade. Adjacent, step-bystep face charts allow any beautiful dreamer to transform her look into Natural Beauty, Feminine Flirty or Too Faced Cosmetics’ dreamy pallete. Seductively Smokey. More info: www.toofaced.com

A new Alba Botanica gift set.

Redken Releases All Soft Set • Redken’s All Soft gift set ($23) includes an All Soft Shampoo, Conditioner and Heavy Cream softening rinse-out mask. It also features a free sample of Redken’s new Argan 6 product. All Soft is suitable for dry, brittle hair and contains Redken’s exclusive Interbond Conditioning System and illuminating Silk-Luxe Complex. More info: www.redken.com

Pravana’s Color Ensure Set for Holiday 2011 •

The latest holiday kit from Redken

Pravana color protecting duo

targets distressed tresses.

comes in a sliver holiday box.

Lorac Releases Bejeweled Day & Night Jewelry Box • Exclusive to Sephora is Lorac’s Bejeweled Day & Night Jewelry Box ($56), a keepsake gift set that contains all the gorgeous redcarpet makeup on anybody’s wish list. This dazzling jewelry box features two beautiful, high-shine lipglosses, a radiant Lorac wants shoppers to accessorize via cosmetbronzing powder, ics with its new jewelry box gift set. two eyeliners in brown and black and two versatile eyeshadow palettes for both day and night. Lorac’s color cosmetics are created by celebrity makeup artist Carol Shaw. More info: www.loraccosmetics.com

Alba Botanica Serves Up Cranberry Mimosa • New limited edition Alba Botanica gift sets for holiday 2011 include the Natural Cranberry Mimosa Shower Gel & Body LoNovember 2011

For holiday time, Pravana is offering Color Ensure Shampoo and Color Ensure Conditioner packed in a limited-edition silver holiday box ($20). The set utilizes special UV filters to protect every strand from the sun while simultaneously providing deep moisture and added strength to colored hair, according to the company. More info: www.pravana.com

Giftable Canteen Kit From Macadamia Natural Oil • Macadamia Natural Oil has combined its mostloved offerings into a canteen shoulder bag ($49.95), which includes four products designed to work in tandem to transform damaged, dull strands into hair that is glossy, radiant, and alive with health and A canteen style shoulder bag comes from movement. The bag con- Macadamia Natural Oil. tains a 4.2oz. Healing Oil Treatment, 3.3oz. Deep Repair Masque, 3.3oz. Rejuvenating Shampoo and the firm’s special Oil Infused Comb. More info: www.MacadamiaHair.com.

NovaLash’s Candied Lashes Are Long on Holiday Style • Candied Lashes from NovaLash are premium lash extensions hand-dipped in ultra-fine, colored crystals and freeze-dried for stay-put shimmer. Applied by a certified lash artist to the outer corners of the eyes, these“seasonal”lashes pair with a standard full-

happi.com

happi • 101

New Products

set of NovaLash extensions. They come in Cinnamon Toast (brown), Blue Raspberry (blue), Mint Chocolate Chip (green), Pink Lemonade (pink), Butterscotch (gold), Sugar Plum (purple) and Licorice (black). More info: www.novalash.com

Six special sized enamels make up Urban Decay’s new Holiday Nail Kit.

OPI Teams Up With the Muppets •

This holiday season, OPI pays homage to America’s favorite Muppet friends as they hit the big screen in Disney’s “The Muppets.” Inspired by the film’s namesake lively and colorful characters, OPI launches 12 limited-edition nail lacquers for Holiday 2011.This line features six shimmery reds and neutrals, as well as six glitter-packed shades. Lacquer packed with micas and sparkle gives a three-dimensional textured look that makes nails look like jewelry. Shades range from textured glitters in rainbow, red, green and blue to softer shimmers in copper and bronze metallic hues. More info: www.opi.com The Candied Lashes look from NovaLash.

It’s Pampermint for the Holidays at Arbonne • Arbonne International’s holiday collection includes the Pampermint Body Care Set ($25), which features the firm’s new Pampermint body wash (8oz) and body lotion (8oz). Key ingredients include apple fruit extract and peppermint oil.

Apple fruit extract and peppermint oil are key in Arbonne’s

Pampermint

Body Care set.

sized”nail polishes feature brushes that have 220 strands each, just like a luxury nail polish brush, allowing for flawless, streak-free detailed application. Shades include Barlust (whiskey brown with brown shimmer), Ziggy (gold and multi-colored glitter), Mars (emerald green), Gunmetal (shimmery dark gray silver micro-glitter), Hot Mess (bright fuchsia with fuchsia micro-glitter) and Wrecked (a deep red wine). More info: www.urbandecay.com

Keepsake Tins From Burt’s Bees • For Holiday 2011, Burt’s Bees has created special keepsake tins for lip balm lovers. Shoppers can pick from the classic, which contains four beeswax lip balms in a reusable tin, or the mixed tin, featuring beeswax lip balm plus Replenishing Lip Balm with Pomegranate Oil, Rejuvenating Lip Balm with Açai Berry and Nourishing Lip A collection Burt’s Bees’ lip Balm with Mango Butter. balms in a festive keepsake tin. Each tin is $9.99. More info: www.burtsbees.com

Orofluido Illumination Lights Up Holiday 2011 • Oroﬂuido’s special holiday

The brand also debuted theVanilla Amber Gift Set ($109), featuring a classic blend of warm vanilla mixed with rich amber in a body wash, body lotion, sugar scrub and shimmer powder; as well as Aromatic Woods Candles ($62), which includes Vanilla Amber, Cypress Bark, Bay Leaf & Ivy, Winter Woods and White Birch candles in a giftable box. More info: www.arbonne.com.

Urban Decay Puts a Holiday Spin on Nail Enamel • Consumers can nail the holiday season with Urban Decay’s

Orofluido, part of Colomer,

Holiday Nail Kit ($28), a collection of six enamels.The“seasonally-

offers a kit with a candle.

102 • happi

happi.com

offerings include the Illumination gift set ($29), which includes a 3.4oz bottle of Orofluido beauty elixir and a free gold-encased candle featuring the brand’s signature scent. More info: www.orofluido.com • November 2011

Packaging News

ICMAD HONORS YOUNG DESIGNERS

Pictured, left to right: Leslie Blodgett, creator of bareMinerals and executive

Post Shave Soother;”Chad Lowe, a student at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, Los Angeles, earned second place and $1,500 for “Little Monsters Children’s Face Wash;” and Irina Shvarts, a student at Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, Los Angeles, placed third, receiving $1,000 for“Lume.” As part of their winning prize package, the Young Designers met personally with Maureen Kelly, founder of Tarte Cosmetics; Kelly Kovak, founder of Purpose-Built; and Matthew Malin, founder of Malin + Goetz, for a glimpse into how real-world cosmetics companies and design firms work. The schools participating in this year’s program were The American Academy of Art, Chicago, IL; Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, Los Angeles, CA; Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, NY; and Miami International University of Art & Design, Miami, FL.

chairman of Bare Escentuals; ICMAD president and CEO Pamela Busiek; 2011

New Lower Minimums for Alpha Packaging’s Clear PET Tremont Sprayer Bottles

ICMAD Young Designers Competition winners Irina Shvarts, Chad Lowe and Cheuk Lau with their prize-worthy product submissions.

• To make it easier than ever for customers to buy its most •The Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers & Distributors Association (ICMAD) celebrated the 2011 ICMADYoung Designers Competition at a gala dinner Sept. 21 in NewYork City. ICMAD president and CEO Pamela Busiek welcomed members and guests to the 12th annual awards presentation with announcements of the great progress ICMAD continues to make for the benefit of its entrepreneurial members. ICMAD’s chairman, Ian Ginsberg, added comments on opportunities available to members. Leslie Blodgett, creator of bareMinerals and executive chairman of Bare Escentuals, recalled her own entrepreneurial story and presented theYoung Designers Awards. Blodgett helped catapult mineral makeup into the public eye with the launch of bareMinerals and successfully sold Bare Escentuals to Shiseido. In addressing ICMAD VIPs, members and guests, Blodgett urged everyone to“be a force of beauty.”Speaking directly to the Young Designer winners, Blodgett emphasized that“pretty is what you are, but beauty is what’s inside and that can change the world.” Created in 1999, the ICMAD Young Designers Competition showcases the talents of students studying package design.“Our continuing goal in hosting this competition is to encourage and develop future creative talent for the cosmetics industry,” noted Busiek. Selected from dozens of entries submitted by finalists at four highly acclaimed schools of design, the three winning ICMAD Young Designers showed truly exemplary creativity and knowledge of cosmetic packaging needs. Cheuk Lau, a student at the Fashion Institute of Technology in NewYork City, won first place and a cash prize of $2,500 for“Zero November 2011

popular styles of PET sprayer bottles, Alpha Packaging has reduced the minimum orders for three sizes of Tremont sprayers made at its Cleveland manufacturing facility. Now, customers can order as few as four pallets of three different Tremont sprayer bottles when they tag onto another order for clear bottles, said the company.

happi.com

PET sprayer bottles from Alpha Packaging

happi • 103

Packaging News

Alpha currently has samples in stock of the 16-, 23- and 32oz Tremont sprayers with 28mm ratchet neck finishes. The bottles are manufactured using a twostage (reheat and blow) molding process. The minimum tag-on order for the 16oz ratchet finish bottle is 9,216 pieces; the minimum tag-on order for the 23oz ratchet finish bottle is 6,480 pieces; and the minimum tag-on order for the 32oz ratchet finish Tremont sprayer II is Dragon Rouge revamped Softlips products with modern packaging that includes a new logo and graphics 4,608 pieces. which emphasize ingredients. Alpha also offers these same three sizes in 28-400 necks. PET Tremont sprayers with nonSoftlips Gets a Redesign ratchet necks will usually have higher minimums and may also •Originally positioned as a cosmetic alternative to traditional have longer lead times than bottles with ratchet necks. Custom- lip balm brands, Softlips, owned by The Mentholatum Company, colored, two-stage sprayers with either the 28mm ratchet finish or reached out to brand and design consultancy Dragon Rouge to U the 28-400 neck finish usually require a 50,000-piece minimum. reposition the brand for growth. More info: www.alphap.com According to Marcus Hewitt, chief creative director, Dragon Rouge,“the brand, with its multitude of flavors, was a favorite of teenage girls, but needed to find a way to broaden its appeal to a wider audience of young women.” While retaining the name, the logotype 4 ACIDULANTS evolved from an inclined script to a stacked 4 AHA’ S / BHA’ S and contemporary one that conveys greater 4 AMIDES 4 ANTI-CAKING AGENTS sophistication and shelf presence. The pure SILICONES 4 BOTANICALS white slimline tubes express the natural 4 COLORANTS – essence while soft, pastel colors and pure inTITANIUM DIOXIDE 4 EMOLLIENTS – LANOLINS gredient photography on the cardboard panels 4 EMULSIFIERS & THICKENERS aids shopability for the range of 51 SKUs in4 FLAVOR ENHANCERS cluding natural tints and flavored offerings. 4 FOOD & BEVERAGE INGREDIENTS The new Softlips brand is available in the 4 GENERAL CHEMICALS US, Australia, South Africa, Europe and 4 GLUCONATES Since 1967, UPI has been a trusted leader in the 4 HUMECTANTS Canada. distribution of the finest quality chemicals and 4 NATURAL BUTTERS ingredients to manufacturers of cosmetics, foods, 4 NATURAL OILS – VEGETABLE pharmaceuticals, flavors and fragrances. Whatever 4 NUTRACEUTICALS World Wide Packaging you have in mind, we have in stock in our 4 OLEO PRODUCTS Introduces Next Generation new modern 120,000 sq. ft. warehouse facility. 4 PHARMACEUTICALS Of Foil Polymer Tube We offer over 3,000 ingredients and our efficient, 4 PHYTOSTEROLS 4 PRESERVATIVES on-time delivery service is included. • World Wide Packaging (WWP), a & ANTI-OXIDANTS Star-K Kosher Certification 4 SEQUESTRANTS provider of cosmetic packaging components 4 SOLVENTS – ALKALI 24 HOUR ON-LINE CUSTOMER SERVICE @ and plastic tubes, has developed a foil poly4 SUNSCREENS www.upichem.com mer tube featuring a dual split chamber foil 4 SURFACTANTS – BETAINES 4 SWEETENERS wall and represents another step forward in 4 VETERINARY INGREDIENTS tube technology, according to the company. 4 VITAMINS/ SUPPLEMENTS NUTRIENTS 60 Jiffy Road, Somerset, NJ 08873-0438 The innovative tube makes it possible for 4 MINERAL OILS – WAXES 732-568-1266 • Fax: 732-568-1299 WWP’s cosmetics and skin care customers to 4 PETROLATUM – FATTY ACIDS E-mail: [email protected] store two formulas separately in one convenFOR ALL YOUR COSMETIC, PHARMACEUTICAL & FOOD NEEDS ient, portable package, yet lets them combine CUSTOM REPACKAGING AVAILABLE PAILS, QUARTS, GALLONS, DRUMS, TOTES TO TRUCKLOADS & BULK • VISA–M/C–AMEX instantly upon use, according to the company.

IF IT HAS TO DO WITH CHEMICALS & NATURAL INGREDIENTS, YOUR SEARCH FOR TOP QUALITY IS OVER.

UNIVERSAL PRESERV-A-CHEM INC.

104 • happi

happi.com

November 2011

Packaging News

The tube has a foil wall between both chambers that allows it to contain almost any form of bulk product both securely and, from a consumer standpoint, functionally. The tube can be filled and crimped on any “Hot Jaw” tube filler, and its simple yet fashionable design will make it an attractive option to house product that calls for complementary formulas to be stored separately until applied. “Our new dual split novel dual split chamber tube. WWP’s chamber tubes are practical in their simplicity—and for that same reason they are also very cost efficient,”said Jeffrey M. Hayet, executive vice president, global sales of World Wide Packaging.“We were able to keep the tubes compact enough to house two-formula products conveniently and attractively, which, of course, is vital when providing packaging solutions in the cosmetic and skin care market.” More info: www.wwpinc.com

Crystal Ball Dispenser Caps Easy open and close Looks good on many containers Push-pull or non push-pull Variety of colors 24/410 neck finish Call for other caps & closures

Something New Sails In from M&H Plastics •

M&H Plastics added a 300ml size to its Spinnaker bottles—resulting in a range comprising 200-, 300- and 400ml offerings. According to the company, the Spinnaker is a distinctivelyshaped bottle and all three sizes take the same 23mm snap-on flip top cap. In addition the 200ml bottle is available with a 24/410 neck finish, which takes a wide selection of standard closures. The bottles are manufactured in HDPE and are also available in Co-Ex Soft Touch and Visistripe. The Spinnaker is a contemporary shape set to become a classic and is ideal for the personal care sector, noted the company. More info: M&H Plastics recently expanded its www.mhplastics.com Spinnaker collection. • November 2011

happi.com

-JODPMO "WF t 1BTBEFOB $" JOGP!QFBSDFQMBTUJDTDPN t XXXQFBSDFQMBTUJDTDPN

626-797-8481 happi • 105

Supplier’s Corner

NEW NOVEMER EC-2 POLYMER FROM LUBRIZOL ● The Lubrizol Corporation’s Noveon

Consumer Specialties released its new Novemer EC-2 polymer. The multifunctional, easy-to-use, pre-neutralized liquid polymer is designed to thicken, emulsify, co-emulsify, stabilize and suspend a variety of oil phase components in even the most challenging skin care formulations, according to the company. Offering unique sensory properties and strong electrolyte tolerance, it enables the formulation of smooth and elegant emulsions with a single polymer. Highly versatile, Novemer EC-2 polymer offers unmatched viscosity building and unsurpassed yield value across a range of use levels, making it ideal for finished formulations ranging from low viscosity lotions to high viscosity creams. Due to its liquid form, Novemer EC-2 polymer can be used in hot or cold processing and may be added to the manufacturing process at any time for final viscosity adjustments. More info: www.lubrizol.com/ personalcare

DSM’s Argan Oil Is Ecocert And Natrue Certified

● DSM Nutritional Products’ 100% pure Argan oil is now certified to the highest organic certification standards by both Ecocert and Natrue. The double organic certification represents the highest possible standards through the entire production chain. Pure DSM Argan Oil possesses a high concentration of polyunsaturated fatty acids, antioxidants and squalene. It therefore provides a nourishing, regenerating and protecting effect on the skin, helping to maintain the skin’s youth asset. It helps to replenish and restore skin’s barrier, leaving a non-greasy, smooth and moisturized skin. It has excellent emollient properties, providing a smooth skin feel and improving the skin’s complexion, according to the company. 106 • happi

Soliance Debuts Renewable Squalane

“With its exceptional balance of precious lipids and antioxidants, argan oil is the ideal active ingredient for skin care formulas with a nourishing and anti-aging effect,” noted Marie-Sophie Meisinger, DSM Nutritional Products’ global marketing manager, skin care. DSM Argan Oil is also a natural shine enhancer for the hair, and boosts shine at affordable concentrations when compared with leading market formulations. It offers flawless light reflection and delivers extra shine without leaving the hair greasy. Its natural balance of polyunsaturated fatty acids and antioxidants helps maintain healthy-looking hair, making it particularly suitable for stressed and mature hair. Produced fully in accordance with organic and Fair Trade principles, DSM Argan oil is derived from Argania spinosa, a tree native to southwest Morocco. It is highly suitable for state-of-the-art natural and organic formulations thanks to its specifically gentle cold-pressing process followed by a non-chemical deodorization. It has been recognized for centuries by the Berbers as the“Tree of Life.” More info: www.dsm.com

on the market in terms of stability and moisturizing properties. However, formulators have avoided using the material due to availability issues. Indeed, squalane is mainly sourced from highly controversial shark liver or olive oil, which, due to its interdependence with food oil, is subject to price variability and limited availability. Soliance has partnered with Amyris, a US company with a strong biotechnology expertise, to develop Renewable Squalane: an alternative solution that delivers a stable, Ecocert-approved and reliable source of squalane for the cosmetics industry, according to the company. Blind-test results have shown that there is no significant difference between olive squalane and Renewable Squalane. It is also easily absorbed by the skin and leaves a nongreasy silky touch. With good emollient and hydration properties, Renewable Squalane is the reliable, Ecocert and sustainable alternative for cosmetic formulas. More info on www.soliance.com

Seal the Cuticle With Keracyn

Croda Launches Solaveil XT-40W

●

Throughout the day, the hair is exposed to many external aggressions. These stressors can disrupt the cuticle, which forms a protective coating, causing damage to the inner proteins and lipids leading to dull compromised hair. Keracyn, new from Provital, is an active obtained from the leaves of artichoke that is rich in hydroxycinnamic derivatives, which are known to have antioxidant properties. It helps to prevent the opening of cuticle scales and preserves the integrity and health of the hair fiber. It can be added easily to various hair care products, according to the company. More info: www.provitalgroup.com happi.com

● Squalane is one of the best emollients

● With the new FDA rules on sunscreen

labeling and effectiveness testing released and scheduled for implementation in 2012, broad-spectrum protection is even more important to ensure compliance with the new monograph in which UVA and UVB protection is essential. Croda offers the Solaveil SpeXtra products, a range of broad-spectrum UV absorbers that provide this protection along with great skin feel, according to the company. Products in the Solaveil SpeXtra line can be used as sole UV absorbers in sunscreen products, eliminating the need for complex combinations of filters to achieve broad-spectrum UV protection. November 2011

Supplier’s Corner

Croda’s newest solution for broadspectrum protection, as part of the Solaveil SpeXtra line, is Solaveil XT-40W.This water based system allows the freedom to formulate light feeling and highly spreadable O/W emulsions with broad-spectrum protection, achieving a critical wavelength of ~380nm, which is well in excess of the 370nm required for UVA protection claims. Solaveil XT-40W contains hydrophobically coated power that offers inherent water resistance, another important element of the new FDA monograph. Solaveil XT-40W is also Ecocert approved so natural formulations compliant with Ecocert standards can be attained. More info: www.croda.com/na/pc

family and provides personal care brand owners a non-cationic conditioning ingredient for body wash and mild conditioning shampoo formulations, according to the company. EcoSmooth Satin allows formulators to create clear formulations with at least equivalent conditioning performance

to cationic polymers at competitive prices. Other recent rollouts include Opulyn PQG Opacifier, a versatile distinct opacifying technology that allows formulators to create creamy conditioning body washes, shampoos and liquid hand soaps. More info: www.dow.com/personalcare •

Avenacare Ideal for Hair, Skin and Body Care

● The Avenacare personal care range of ingredients is natural, active and entirely derived from oats. The ingredients, manufactured by Biovelop AB in Sweden in a chemical-free process, are ideal for skin, hair and body care products. More info: www.avenacare.com Dow Personal Care Debuts EcoSmooth Polymers ● Dow Personal Care, a business unit

of The Dow Chemical Company, recently introduced EcoSmooth, a new family of conditioning polymers that provide outstanding benefits in shampoo and body wash applications, according to the company. EcoSmooth Silk Conditioning Polymer is the first innovation in the EcoSmooth platform. A non-cationic conditioning technology developed to provide conditioning properties similar to silicone in shampoo formulations, EcoSmooth Silk was developed to address consumer demand for silicone-free shampoos. EcoSmooth Silk Conditioning Polymers provide an alternative to silicone while also delivering exceptional conditioning benefits, foam stability and prevention of product build-up on the hair. EcoSmooth Satin, launched in 2011, is the second member of the EcoSmooth

November 2011

happi.com

happi • 107

SCC News

PREVIEW OF THE 2011 SCC SCIENTIFIC MEETING & TECHNOLOGY SHOWCASE

The SCC Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase is held at the New York Hilton.

• The Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) will hold its Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase, Dec. 8-9 at New York City’s Hilton Hotel. This annual event incudes several technical sessions (some concurrent), social events and awards presentations over a two-day period. Scientific Sessions Session A—Active Colors; Howard Epstein, moderator.“Surface-Active Functionals for Wash Off Stable Hair Color Modifications,” Thomas Rudolph, Ph.D., Merck KGaA; “Make-Up and Biological Activity on the Skin,” Karl Lintner, Ph.D., Philippe Mondon, Emmanuel Doridot, Nada Andre and Olga Gracioso, Kal’Idees; “High Performance Color Cosmetic Coating for Prevention of Skin Injury Due to Thermal Insult,” D. Michelle McCluskey, Robert Lochhead, Ph.D., Paige Buchanan, Laura Anderson and Kelli Booth, Scigenesis and University of Southern Mississippi; 2011 Frontiers of Science Award Lecture: Robert Langer, Ph.D., Massachusetts Institute of Technology,“Biomaterials and Biotechnology: From the Discovery of the First Angiogenesis Inhibitors to the Development of Controlled Drug Delivery Systems and the Foundation of Tissue Engineering.” Session B–Hair Testing; Joseph Dallal, 108 • happi

moderator.“A New Hair Straightening System with High Performance and Low Damage,” Timothy Gao, Ph.D., Charles Moses, Zhi Li, Jung-Mei Tien,Ying Xia He and Peter Landa, Croda, Inc.;“Models for Evaluation of the Environmental Stress on the Hair,” Olga Freis, Philippe Moser, Sylvia Nefkens, Gilles Pauly and Andreas Rathjens, Laboratoires Serobiologiques;“A Global Approach to the Differentiation of Styling Polymer Performance on Asian, Caucasian, Mulatto and African American Hair,”Anand Mahadeshwar, Ph.D., Ray Rigoletto, Xin Ou, Ph.D. and Claire Sun, International Specialty Products; and “An Alternate Method for Reshaping Hair,”Ram Ramaprasad, Ph.D. and Mythili Nori, TRI/Princeton Session C–Hand Health and Hygiene; Martha Tate, Ph.D., moderator;“Polarization Spectroscopy Imaging for Assessment of Erythema and Blanching in Skin Care Product Testing,”Gert E. Nilsson, Ph.D., Wheelsbridge AB;“Factors Influencing Hand Skin Health in Health Care Workers: Practices, Environment, Genetics and Treatment Response,” Marty Visscher, Ph.D. and R. Randall Wickett, Ph.D., Cincinnati Children’s Hospital and University of Cincinnati;“Development of Cationic Bodywash Formulation Containing Novel Opacifier Utilizing Ultra Small Angel Neutron Scattering (USANS),” Alan I. Nakatani, Ph.D., Miao

SCC Meetings Nov. 17: Long Island Chapter Meeting. More info: www.liscc.org Nov. 17: Southwest Chapter Meeting. More info: www.swscc.org Nov. 25: Ontario Chapter Holiday Dinner Dance, The Venetian,Vaughn, ON. More info: www.ontarioscc.org Dec. 2: St. Louis Chapter Holiday Party. More info: www.scconline.org Dec. 7: SCC Continuing Education, Ethnic Product/Relaxer Formulation: a New

happi.com

Wang, Kathleen Keller, Fanwen Zeng and Matina Osti,The Dow Chemical Company; and“Formulating Hand Hygiene Products for the Healthcare Professional,” Christopher C. Heisig, Ph.D. and Nancy E. Kaiser, Steris Corporation Session D–Scalp and Skin Biology; Karl Lintner, Ph.D., moderator. 2011 Keynote Award Lecture sponsored by Ruger Chemical,“The Photostabilities of Selected AntiAging Skin Care Active Ingredients,”Craig Bonda, Anna Pavlovic and Jean Zhang, The HallStar Company;“Prevention of Hair Follicle Aging,”Paul Mouser, Ph.D., Catherine Gondran, Claude Dal Farra and Nouha Domloge, ISP Vincience;“New Strategy to Modulate Alopecia Using a Combination of Two Specific and Unique Ingredients,”Estelle Loing, Ph.D., Michel Hocquaux and Isabelle Lacasse, Unipex Innovations; and “Role of TRF2 in Preventing Cellular Senescence and Associated Skin Damages,” Isabelle Imbert, Ph.D., J.M. Botto, L. Bergeron, C. Plaza, C. Meyrignac, C. Gondran, C. Dal Farra and N. Domloge, ISP Vincience. Session E– 21st Century Formulating; Michael Fevola, Ph.D., moderator. “21st Century Daily Care: Invisible Shield for Invisible Aging. The Key Role of UVA Filters in Preventing Free Radical Formulation,”Tatiana Drovetskaya, Ph.D., S. Orofino, G.

Technological Approach, NewYork. More info: www.scconline.org Dec. 7: SCC Continuing Education, Innovation in Personal Care Products, Hilton NewYork. More info: www.scconline.org. Dec. 8-9: SCC Annual Scientific Meeting & Technology Showcase, Hilton New York. More info: www.scconline.org Dec. 15: Twin Cities Holiday Party. More info: www.tccscc.org

November 2011

SCC News

Vazquez, B. Herzog, M. Schnyder, H. Flosser Muller, U. Osterwalder and K. Jung, BASF Corporation;“Precise Polymers for Prestige Products: Formulating for Feel,”Patrick McCarthy, Ph.D. and Wojciech Jakubowski, ATRP Solutions, Inc.;“Emerging Trends are Changing the Way Formulators are Thinking About and Formulating Surfactant Cleansing Products,”Timothy Roach, Shannon Butz and Duane Krzysik, Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Noveon Consumer Specialties; “Increased UV Protection of Hair through High Loaded Sun Filter Carrier Systems,” Monika Beyer, Ph.D., Rovi Cosmetics International GmbH; and“The RAFT Technology: A Smarter Way to Develop Multi-Functional Polymers for Cosmetic Formulations,”John Chiefari, Ph.D., Ezio Rizzardo, Graeme Moad and San Thang, CSIRO.

emulsion design approach for relaxers, conditioning agents for relaxers, pre- and posttreatment products, the myths about neutralizing shampoo, lye versus no lye relaxers, high selling ethnic products, future trend in ethnic products and formulation of ethnic products to minimize hair damage.

The second course, Innovation in Personal Care Products, will cover what is innovation and why it is important, the importance of R&D/marketing interaction, innovation milestones in the personal care industry and tools to enhance innovation. More info: www.scconline.org •

Transitioning to Naturals? Alpha can help.

2011 Awards During the meeting, the 2011 Maison de Navarre Medal Award will be presented to Dr. Howard Maibach. Dr. Maibach is being recognized for his significant contribution through his extensive cosmetic safety research. He has also been a major factor in the study of percutaneous absorption and moisturization. He will be presented with the honor at Thursday’s luncheon. The 2011 SCC Merit Award will be presented to Dr. Kenneth Marenus at the Friday luncheon.

Social Events The Suppliers Cocktail Reception will be heldThursday evening from 5-7:00 p.m., immediately following the close of the Technology Showcase. In addition, emeritus members of the SCC are invited to a meet and greet reception on Thursday from 4-5:00 p.m.

Alpha R &D is expert in the science, art and production of the highest quality essential oils. If you currently use natural aroma ingredients or are contemplating the transition, consider Alpha for support in: • analyzing essential oils and aroma ingredients • customizing blends of essential oils and fragrances • sourcing finest quality essential oils/absolutes • aroma training and information • assisting in creating aromatherapy products Dr. Nadim Shaath, President of Alpha R&D, has 30 years of experience researching, testing, aroma training, distilling/extracting florals, seeds and herbs and formulating custom blends for Aromatherapy. Alpha is the exclusive distributor of the products of Hashem Brothers of Egypt, growers and distillers of organic essential oils and the supercritical CO2 essential oils of Sanvardhini of India. To find out how we can help your company contact the team of experts at Alpha Research & Development, (914) 761-7141 or [email protected].

Education Courses The SCC has also scheduled two continuing education courses for Dec. 7. Ethnic Product/Relaxer Formulation: New Technological Approach will cover many topics, including relaxer definition, relaxers then and now, chemistry of actives in relaxers, keratin straightening products, November 2011

Dr. Nadim Shaath President, Alpha R&D

happi.com

happi • 109

Personnel Roundup

DRES-HAJESKI RETURNS • Lipo Chemicals: welcomed back Caren Dres-Hajeski as marketing director. She returned to Lipo with more than 14 years of experience in technical marketing and sales account management. Dres-Hajeski began her career with Brooks Industries where she had technical marketing and sales responsibilities for Latin America and the US. She also had roles in sales and marketing at Active Concepts, before joining Lipo Chemicals, Inc. in 2003 as an account manager. She maintained this position for more than five years, managing major accounts in the Northeast US. Subsequently, she moved to Active Organics, most recently as director, sales and marketing. Her main responsibilities at Lipo Chemicals, Inc. will include key principal management, preparation and implementation of global marketing plans, product management, new product launches and corporate communications.

LIPO

counts receivables. She has worked with CSPA and PIR since 2009.

• Trilogy Fragrances: hired two account managers, Robert Yorey Jr. and Ellen Slight. Prior to joining Trilogy, Yorey worked for 15 years for Alpine Aromatics in operations and sales and served as Northeast sales representative. Slight comes to Trilogy from Arylessence, where she held the position of account manager and worked with leading companies in the consumer goods industry on key product developments. She previously held positions as account executive for two leading companies in the specialty gift and home décor industry. •

• Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM): appointed Christen Sachse-Vasquez director, technical information and services. She will manage RIFM’s technical information, oversee the RIFM database and serve as RIFM’s REACH liaison. Vasquez returns to RIFM after having served as manager, global fragrance safety and regulatory affairs at Takasago International Corp. (USA). She first joined RIFM in 2000 to work in the Human Health Science Program and then moved to the database area. •

The Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA): appointed Laura Mowad Geib as its director of meetings and conventions. Geib, who was promoted from her position as manager of the Product Ingredient Review (PIR), a CSPA affiliate program, will replace Ann Wheeler, who recently retired following 23 years of service. Geib’s responsibilities will include, but are not limited to, the planning, execution and follow up of all CSPA meetings, including the association’s premier events: the Annual Meeting, Mid-Year Meeting and Innovention. She also will be responsible for coordinating a wide range of nationwide educational workshops, seminars and webinars offered by the Association, and coordinating CSPA’s sponsorship opportunities. During her work with the PIR program, Geib was responsible for scheduling and coordinating task force meetings; managing Laura Geib multiple companies through various issues pertaining to regulatory guidelines and processes for federal, state and international agencies; developing strategies to maximize the efficiency of 43 task forces and joint ventures; and overseeing ac110 • happi

TO

happi.com

Sales Veteran Retires After Long Career With Clairol Professional John Perry of Procter & Gamble recently announced his retirement, capping an extraordinary 33-year career in the salon industry, all of it with Clairol Professional. Starting in the days when virtually every distributor mounted his own trade show, Perry worked with every major house, bringing Miss Clairol, the Beautiful Collection and later, Wella Color Charm, to stores and salons across the country. A graduate of the University of Minnesota, Perry began representing Clairol in the Midwest in 1978. Finding that he connected with the people in the beauty indusJohn Perry try, he then moved up steadily—to a territory in the East, a management role back in the Midwest, a regional sales position in the Southeast, and finally to director of sales for Clairol Professional in 1994. When P&G Salon Professional acquired the Clairol brand from previous owner Bristol-Myers Squibb in 2001, Perry took on the Wella Color Charm line and established both brands as the open line powerhouses they are today, according to the company. “John has been a leader and a mentor to our entire organization, both open and exclusive lines,” said P&G Salon Professional CEO Reuben Carranza. “He has built an organization that’s creative, agile and absolutely dedicated to the customer. It’s a magnificent legacy.” Perry and his wife, Joslyn, will be returning to their home base in Connecticut to be closer to Perry’s family—including daughter Kirsten and son Reid. A replacement was not named at press time.

November 2011

Industry News

COTY’S TECHNOLOGY EARNS ACCOLADES FROM CGT GROUP • Coty Inc. has been named the Most Innovative Company of 2011 by the Consumer Goods Technology (CGT) Group. Recognition is determined by CGT Group’s board of directors, which includes executives from Alberto Culver, P&G, Unilever, Nestle, Accenture, Miller-Coors, Gartner Group, DelMonte Foods and Rubbermaid. Three of Coty’s products were recognized as being the most innovative: Rimmel Lash Accelerator, for its Lash Growth Technology; Sally Hanson Salon Manicure, for the first encapsulation in nail lacquer; and Sally Hanson Special Effects, for its patented film technology, according to CGT Group. “Coty is thrilled to accept this presti-

Sally Hansen nail products

gious honor,” said Bernd Beetz, CEO of Coty. “We are humbled to be recognized by a board of peers who are industry giants in their respective companies. At the helm of this great company for 10 years now, I have seen first-hand the drive and creativity that embodies all those who work at Coty. I am confident that this achievement will propel us even further as we continue strengthening our innovation pipeline and delivering products that consumers love.” “These products and their subsequent recognition are the result of great team November 2011

work as we drive our innovation process to new levels,” added Ralph Macchio, SVP, global R&D and chief scientific officer. “The science behind Coty’s product portfolio uniquely reflects the team’s successful response to the evolving demands of consumer habits and retail trends. We are all very excited to be recognized for our strong innovation performance in a highly competitive marketplace.” Coty will be featured in the December issue of Consumer Goods Technology.

Vivimed Labs Taps Cambrian Chemicals in Canada • Vivimed Labs USA, Inc. has chosen Cambrian Chemicals Inc. to be its distributor for personal care products in Canada. Cambrian will be responsible for the personal care product line—antimicrobials/preservatives, skin care actives and UV filters—as well as NISARG natural extract products throughout all the Canadian provinces. “Choosing Cambrian will allow us to reach the Canadian personal care, nutraceutical and vitamin supplement markets and have a partner that can help us provide a high level of customer service and technical support,” said Darren Gilbert, manager-sales and marketing at Vivimed Labs USA. More info: www.vivimedlabs.com or www.cambrianchemicals.com

TC USA, Inc. Acquires Zenitech,LLC • TC USA, Inc., a wholly owned subsidiary of Charles Tennant & Company (Canada) Ltd., a division of the UK based Tennant Group of Companies, has acquired US specialty polymer supplier, Zenitech, LLC. The acquisition is a continuation of Charles Tennant Ltd.‘s strategic initiative of developing new, innovative ingredients for the personal care, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. happi.com

Zenitech provides the global personal care and cosmetic markets with patented, multi-dimensional, specialty polymers derived from natural based intermediates. Such products improve the moisturization, conditioning, glossing, and film forming properties of cosmetic and beauty care formulations. According to Kathie Taylor, executive VP sales and marketing for Charles Tennant & Company, the acquisition of Zenitech and Charles Tennant & Company’s global resources and infrastructure will enhance the sales, marketing, and new product development initiatives for the Zenitech portfolio. “With this acquisition, we want to achieve a recognized position as a supplier of performance driven, highly functional, cost effective, natural and natural based specialty ingredients in the global beauty care market,”she said. According to Taylor, Zenitech and the recently formed joint venture with ESSA Technologies, further enhances Charles Tennant‘s ongoing strategic initiative to venture and/or acquire technology driven companies in key strategic markets like personal care and cosmetics. “Now, we will have an even wider offering of functional and highly innovative products and services for our customers worldwide, widening our portfolio of fine chemicals, customer commitment, and global resources for the beauty care market, “ added Robert MacPhail, CEO and president of Charles Tennant & Company. More Info: Kathie Taylor, [email protected]; (416) 747-3108

Name Change at Ajinomoto • Ajinomoto USA, Inc. is changing its name to Ajinomoto North America, Inc. to more accurately reflect its area of operations and responsibilities, according to the company. Ajinomoto USA, Inc. Specialty Chemicals Division will change its name to Ajihappi • 111

Industry News

the success of the past 50 years by opening this beautiful new facility as we look forward to more milestones in the future.” Horn is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. More info: www.ethorn.com

nomoto North America, Inc. Specialty and Personal Care to more accurately reflect its activities. Both changes were scheduled to occur on Nov. 1. More info: www.ajichem.com

Horn Opens New Corporate Facility • Horn–formerly E.T. Horn–is bringing the leadership of its six self-sufficient business units together to work collaboratively in a new 120,000-square-foot corporate facility in La Mirada, CA.The new space provides a consolidated site for corporate leadership while retaining and supporting individual manufacturing or warehouse sites for each business group.

Horn’s new corporate facility in La Mirada, CA.

Call for Papers: 103rd AOCS Annual Meeting • The call for papers has been issued

“I joined Horn when it started in 1961 and we pioneered the approach of providing our partners with transparency,” stated Gene Alley, CEO.“Horn has grown considerably during that time, but we still retain that special bond of trust and openness with our principals, customers and colleagues. I’m thrilled to commemorate

for the 103rd AOCS Annual Meeting & Expo, which will be held April 29-May 2, 2012 at the Long Beach Convention Center, Long Beach, CA. Abstracts of 200 words in English are requested, without tables and figures. Abstracts for oral and poster presentations are being solicited to address top-

Drom Celebrates 100th Anniversary “There’s nothing like the joy you feel when you create an extraordinary fragrance,” wrote Bruno Storp Sr., who founded Drom fragrances 100 years ago. Two generations later, under the leadership of his grandsons, Dr. Andreas and Dr. Ferdinand Storp, Drom is still run by the same family and guided by the same principles of passion, vitality and creative freedom. What’s changed, however, is that Drom has evolved from a local provider of specialized fragrance products into a global player with international reach. It has revenues of approximately $100 million and 350 employees, making it one of top 10 fragrance suppliers in the world. When Storp Sr. founded his company “Bruno Storp – Chemical, Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Products” in 1911 in Munich, Germany, he came from a long family line of both entrepreneurs and artists like painter Carl von Marr, whose paintings were awarded numerous gold medals, for example, at the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893. The Storp brothers—the third generation to manage the firm—recall that their grandfather had been a young apothecary who actually wanted to be an opera singer and to work as an artist. Using his new company, Storp dedicated his creative talent to the creation of innovative toilet water, hair tonic, and a soap product that later became known as “Storp’s Floating Soap.” In 1921, Dr. O. Martens joined the company, from which the name DR.O.M. came. Several years later, Storp met Dr. Clemente, a perfumer, which was an important turning point in the company’s history. Drom started developing fragrances and perfumes; Storp also opened a small perfume shop in Munich in 1935 where he sold his own exclusive creations. Drom launched its first international campaign in England in 1931. In 1948, Drom began to focus on bottling, packaging and logistics. Production was modernized and glass gave way to steel—an ingenious move that greatly simplified both production and transport. In 1956, 112 • happi

the firm started exporting products to Switzerland, Austria, France and Scandinavia. In 1970, the company invented a new filling technology— the very first to use gravity—which revolutionized manufacturing in the fragrance industry. The firm also became interested in the production of natural raw materials, and even today it continues to conduct intensive research into raw materials. For example, it patented its own completely natural Pureganic essential oils. In 1977, Drom ventured outside Europe, establishing a production facility and sales office in the US; a fine fragrance studio was opened it the Tribeca district of New York City in 2005. Drom Asia/Australia and Drom Japan were founded in the 1980s “We currently have representatives in 43 countries and production facilities worldwide,” said Andreas Storp, a man whose passion for his work led him in 2004 to personally establish the company’s plant in Guangzhou, China. In 2007 Drom took over a plant in Brazil, redesigning it to meet the company’s requirements. “We’ve succeeded in establishing a traditional family business in new markets. Highly creative people have joined the company, and Drom has an extremely strong position internationally. We also have many promising opportunities in Paris and New York,” asserted Ferdinand Storp. “Drom is like a dynamic startup company that is full of pioneering spirit. We are continuing to capture new markets, launch inspiring projects, and as a result we are experiencing a constant renewal.” Yet at the same time, Drom is staying true to itself. “We feel that it is important to retain our DNA— both in our business as well as in our own lives. As a family business, we need to be careful to not lose our identity.” Dr. Andreas Storp and Dr. Ferdinand Storp

happi.com

November 2011

Industry News

ics including but not limited to the following: agricultural microscopy, industrial oil products, analytical, lipid oxidation and quality, biotechnology, phospholipid, edible applications technology, protein and co-products, health and nutrition and surfactants and detergents. Also scheduled is the “Forum on Emerging Technologies– What’s on the Horizon?”There will be five sessions that expand beyond the science to address how these critical issues impact the business of fats and oils: sustainability (including green technology, life cycle, energy issues; biobased products (including alternatives and processing issues); functional lipids (including structure, application, fundamentals, Omega-3s, and health/nutrition implications); communication and computer technology in the workplace (including how fats and oils industries are utilizing new technologies and social media to their advantage, what challenges are being faced); and analytical horizons (including what’s ahead, what’s important, what’s needed). More info: http://annualmeeting.aocs.org

L’Oréal’s Agon Honored by AJC • Jean-Paul Agon, chairman and CEO of L’Oréal, has been honored by AJC, a global Jewish advocacy organization, with its International Human Relations Award in recognition of Agon’s “global leadership, vision and corporate citizenship.” “I believe that AJC and L’Oréal have much in common,” Agon said. “We share similar core values. Ethics, integrity, respect, spirit of tolerance, acceptance of diversity, are as much a part of your DNA as it is part of ours. They resonate with the humanistic approach that will always inspire our vision and our actions as citizens of the world.” More than 600 people attended a special dinner during which Agon received the honor. The event raised more $1.35 million for AJC. “We are delighted to honor Jean-Paul Agon, an outstanding corporate leader, and look forward to further strengthening our friendship and cooperation with L’Oréal,”said AJC executive director David Harris.“L’Oréal’s engagement with Israel stands out as a model for global corporations that recognize the intrinsic value of investing in and working with the Israeli people.”

Formed in 1991, Ecocert is actively involved in environmental protection and social responsibility. Its client base includes renowned international brands such as Aveda, Kiehl’s, Nuxe, Kora, Origins and Matrix. Indiana Certified Organic began offering organic certification in 1995, one of the first to be accredited by the US National Organic Program. Currently operating in 24 states, ICO is NOP, ISO 65 and CAEQ accredited. It offers inspection services through its national network and certification for crops, wild crops, livestock, handlers and processors.

Harcros To Distribute ABITEC Personal Care Products • Harcros Chemicals Inc., a manufacturer and distributor of raw materials for personal care and industrial use, has been selected as a distributor partner for ABITEC Personal Care products in select regions. ABITEC has been a specialty ester producer for more than 50 years with emphasis on naturally-derived emollients, emulsifiers, solubilizers, secondary surfactants and natural alternatives for lanolin, petrolatum and other petroleum-based materials. More info: Email: [email protected]

Ecocert Acquires Indiana Certified Organic

Avatar CPSQ t %oX $IFNJDBM t ,atakura ChikLBSJO t Pilot $IFNJDBM t 4IJO EUTV 4JMJcPOFT t Vege Tech Co t Vevy Europe

•

Ecocert, the French environmental body devoted to sustainable development and the certification of organic agricultural products, has acquired Indiana Certified Organic (ICO), an organic certification agency operating across the US and US Virgin Islands. Ecocert said the deal is key to its strategy of developing its North American business plan with well-established local partners in the US. The acquisition brings more than 300 additional U.S. clients to the group and an enhanced position on the US market with a local presence, brand, network and team, the company stated in a press release. November 2011

happi.com

happi • 113

Industry News

AkzoNobel To Bolster Plants in US and Brazil • AkzoNobel plans to invest $20 million to increase capacity at its surface chemistry plants in Itupeva, São Paulo, Brazil and Morris, IL, over the next two years, the company announced. This investment will enable AkzoNobel to expand production capacity for fatty amine derivatives, which are essential ingredients in formulations used in a broad range of industries including fabric softeners, and home and personal care, the company said. “We are committed to support our strategic customers in the Americas by constantly improving our manufacturing sites and, as a result of our unparalleled innovation efforts, enabling them to develop and produce new products,” said Bob Margevich, managing director, AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry business unit.“Our ob-

114 • happi

jective is to grow with our customers.” AkzoNobel’s fatty amines product lines include Arquad, Ethoquad, Armid, Armeen, Armosoft, Redicote, Berol, Bermocoll, Aromox, Duomeen, Triameen, Armac, Duomac and Ethomeen. More info: www.akzonobel.com/sc

Ecolab Awards Grants To Community Schools • In keeping with its quarter-century tradition of supporting community schools, Ecolab Inc. has awarded $710,000 in 2011 through its Ecolab Foundation’s Visions for Learning grant program. The program, which it operates in 12 communities across the US, benefitted more than 300 schools and thousands of students nationwide this year. “Ecolab has consistently supported education through multiple programs to

happi.com

better reach and benefit students,” said Douglas M. Baker, Jr., Ecolab’s chairman, president and CEO. “Our largest program, the Visions for Learning grant program, provides additional classroom materials to help students in grades K-12 reach their learning goals. By providing teachers with additional classroom materials that they otherwise might purchase with personal funds, we’re able to enhance the educational experience and achievement for both teachers and students,”he added. To date, Ecolab has distributed $8.7 million nationally through its Visions for Learning program. The grants are given to kindergarten through 12th grade teachers to support and engage students, helping them to achieve at-grade level in basic skills and enrich the classroom experience. More info: www.ecolab.com •

November 2011

Private Label/Contract Packaging

Premier manufacturer of truly natural and organic personal care products, located in a state-of-the-art 125,000 sq. ft. facility.

100% Natural Formulations Skin, Body, & Hair Care USDA Organic & Health Canada Certified Paraben Free Green and Natural Ingredients Contract Manufacturing FDA Registered / GMP’s 2,500 – 1,000,000 Piece Runs Competitive Pricing Quick Turn Around Times

Manufacturers of “Truly” Natural Cosmetics

2671 Fort Trenholm Rd., Johns Island, SC 29455

800-760-7779 • 843-559-7542 fax

www.royallabs.com • [email protected]

#534/-):%$ #/.42!#4 0!#+!').' 0%23/.!, #!2% 02/$5#43 s 3HAMPOOS s #ONDI T I ONER S s 4OI L ET R I ES s (AI R 3PR AYS

green manufacturing from product to packagi packaging ing greenblendz.com 248-499-6051 9-6051

s &$! !PPR OVED s #USTOM &ORMUL AS s 6/# #OMPL I ANCE s 4UR N +EY 3ER VI CE

n

#OMPET I T I VE 0R I CES

5NCOMPR OMI SI NG 1UAL I T Y

s "/6 0ACKAGI NG s 2$ %XPERTI SE s &UL L 2EGUL ATORY s ' - 0 0ROCEDURES s ) N HOUSE 'RAPHI CS

s 3I NGL E OR -UL TI

0ACK s ) NDUCTI ON 3EAL I NG s "L ENDI NG &I L L I NG s 0RE 0RODUCTION3AMPLES s 7AREHOUSE$ISTRIBUTION

#HR I S #AL L AS

CCAL L AS CAL L ASGR P COM #HR I S #AL L AS 0KWY 4HOMAST ON '!

For Advertising Information, Contact:

MANA is the market leader and the source of innovation for the world of beauty.

Matt Montgomery 201-880-2225 [email protected] Art Largar 201-880-2259 [email protected] Beth Russo 201-880-2255 [email protected] November 2011

®

MRJS$QERETVSHYGXWGSQ [[[QERETVSHYGXWGSQ

happi.com

happi • 115

Private Label/Contract Packaging

You promise. Dotcom delivers. Completely transparent service to your customers, plus: • Reduced distribution costs • Improved service • 100% on time shipping • 99.7% accuracy Call the leaders in multichannel distribution today

732-287-5970 David Del Pizzo: Beauty and Healthcare Specialist • [email protected] 300 Nixon Lane, Edison, NJ 08837 • www.dotcomdistribution.com

1-866 1-866-941-3945 6-941-3945

116 • happi

happi.com

November 2011

Private Label/Contract Packaging

Pvt Label Hair & Skin Care + OTC “Solar Powered” LAB ORA TOR IES

Formulate Package

(951)788-0700

(Low Cost 5,000 pcs & up)

[email protected]

Professional Directory Skin and Hair Care Products s 0rivATE ,ABEL #ONTrACT -ANufacturING AND 0RODUCT $evELOPMENT n JARs BOTTLEs TUBEs AIrLESS PUMPs SAMPLEs ETC s FACE #REAMS 0EELs 3ErUMs #LEANSERs TONERs -ASQUEs 3CrUBs !NTI !GING TREATMENTs 30F (AIR #ARe 3PA #OLOR #OSMETICS s TurNkeY 0ROJECTs 3TABILITY 3TUDIEs 'rAPHIC $ESIGN 0acKAGING ,ABELING n ,OW MINIMUMS s '-0 O4# CErTIFIED &$! !PPROvED s #USTOM fOrMULATIONS 9634 Washburn Rd Suite A., Downey, CA 90241 www.healthspecialty.com (562) 940-8300 / (888) 267-6652

November 2011

happi.com

happi • 117

Classified Ads

EPA Registered FDA Registered R&D, Micro Lab East & West Coast Operation Bases Full Service Provider Cosmetics | Health Care Personal Care | Household

Let Us Be Your

FILLING WET WIPE SINGLE PACKET SPECIALISTS Trust Our Made in U.S.A. Quality

Contact Us Today! 1 (800) 454-1077 [email protected] www.diamondwipes.com

HOGAN FRAGRANCES 130 EAST 18 TH STREET NEW YORK, NEW YORK 10003 TEL 212-598-4310 FAX 212-477-4711 www.HOGANFF.com

CREATORS FRAGRANCES TO GIVE YOUR PRODUCTS

FRAGRANCES FOR ALL TYPE PRODUCTS - at reasonable prices -

118 • happi

happi.com

November 2011

Classified Ads

Spices S pices for for ealth H Health

Because Na Natural tural Is Be Better! tter! Wholesale Herbs, Spices, T Teas, eas, Tinctures, Tinctu res, Oils and Extracts cts i since 1969

SSAN AN FRANCISCO FR RAANCI CISCO H HERB ERB & NNATURAL ATTUURAALL FFOOD AT OO O OD CCO. O.® O 47444 4 7444 Kato Kato Road, Road, Fremont, Fremont, CA 94538 9 T oll: 8 00.227 t 1IPOF 1 t F ax: 510.770.9021 510.770.9021 Toll: 800.227 1IPOF:: 5 51 Fax:

www.herbspicetea.com ww w.herbspicetea.com com

Statement of Ownership September 2011

Happi - Household and Personal Products Industry Happi - Household and Personal Products Industry 0

Monthly

0 9 0

12

8 8 7 8

70 Hilltop Rd., 3rd Floor, Ramsey, Bergen County, NJ 07446-1150 70 Hilltop Rd., 3rd Floor, Ramsey, NJ 07446-1150

October 6, 2011

12915

$85.00

Joe DiMaulo

201-825-2552

11150

37

44

11240

Art Largar, 70 Hilltop Rd., Ramsey, NJ 07446

1424

Tom Branna, 70 Hilltop Rd., Ramsey, NJ 07446

Rodman J. Zilenziger, Jr. James R. Zilenziger Claire R. Zilenziger Katherine M. Zilenziger Anna G. Zilenziger

November 2011

November 2011

70 Hilltop Rd., Ramsey, NJ 07446-1150

251

245

88.8%

89.6%

Circulation Manager

70 Hilltop Rd., Ramsey, NJ 07446-1150 70 Hilltop Rd., Ramsey, NJ 07446-1150 70 Hilltop Rd., Ramsey, NJ 07446-1150

1300

1300

12664

70 Hilltop Rd., Ramsey, NJ 07446-1150

11194

1424

12915 Rodman Publishing Corp.

12739

11203

12494

12739

10/6/11

70 Hilltop Rd., Ramsey, NJ 07446-1150 x

happi.com

happi • 119

Advertising Index

Advertiser

Page No.

Telephone

Website

Ajinomoto............................................................69 ......................201-292-3180 ..........................................www.ajichem.com Alliance for Consumer Education ..................114 ................................................................................www.consumsered.org Alpha Research ..................................................109 ....................914-761-7141 ........................................www.alpharnd.com Arylessence ..........................................................63 ......................800-553-2440 ....................................www.arylessence.com BASF ..................................................................7, 81 ....................800-880-5768 ........................www.personal-care.basf.com Beiersdorf AG ......................................................23 ....................+49 (40) 4909-0 ................www.Pearlfinder.Beiersdorf.com Berjé......................................................................54 ......................973-748-8980 ..........................................www.berjeinc.com BioScreen Testing Services ................................35 ......................800-229-9057 ......................................www.bioscreen.com Brad-Pak Enterprises Inc. ..................................61 ......................908-233-1234 ........................................www.brad-pak.com Brenntag North America ....................................14 ......................800-732-0562 ......................www.brenntagspecialties.com Brownyard Group ..............................................64 ......................800-645-5820 ....................................www.brownyard.com Calumet Lubricants Co.......................................41 ......................800-437-3188 ........................www.calumetlubricants.com Centerchem, Inc. ............................................Cover 4..................203-822-9800....................................www.centerchem.com Chemsil ................................................................37 ......................877-700-0302 ..........................................www.chemsil.com Clariant Int’l Ltd. Functional Chemicals Div. ..15....................+41 61 469 77 56..................www.personalcare.clariant.com Clinical Research Labs........................................65 ......................732-981-1616 ............................................www.crl-inc.com

120 • happi

happi.com

November 2011

Advertising Index

Advertiser

Page No.

Telephone

Website

Coast Southwest ................................................10 ......................800-621-0500 ............................www.coastsouthwest.com Consumer Product Testing, Inc. ........................21 ......................973-808-7111 ..........................................www.cptclabs.com Covalence ............................................................28 ......................480-897-0551......................................www.CoValence.com CPL Aromas ......................................................59 ......................732-868-8330 ......................................www.cplaromas.com Croda Inc...........................................................17, 39 ..................732-417-0800 ........................................www.crodausa.com DeWolf Chemical ................................................46 ......................800-521-0065 ..................................www.dewolfchem.com DSM Nutritional Products, Inc. ........................43 ......................800-526-0189..........www.unlimitednutrition-na.dsm.com Ei A Pharmaceutical Solutionworks ......27, 29, 31, 33, 50 ..........704-939-4329 ............................www.eisolutionworks.com Emery Oleochemicals ........................................19 ....................................................................................www.emeryoleo.com Evonik Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. ................5 ......................804-541-8658....................www.evonik.com/personal-care Grant Industries, Inc. ..........................................3 ......................201-791-8700..........................................www.grantinc.com Independent Chemical Corporation ................113 ....................718-894-0700 ..................www.independentchemical.com Inolex Chemical Company ................................45 ......................215-271-0800 ............................................www.inolex.com Interpolymer........................................................47 ......................800-262-1281..................................www.interpolymer.com Jeen International................................................73......................800-771-JEEN ................................................www.jeen.com Jungbunzlauer ....................................................71 ......................617-969-0900 ..............................www.jungbunzlauer.com Lipo Chemicals....................................................30 ......................973-345-8600 ................................www.lipochemicals.com Lonza Inc. ........................................................13, 83 ..................201-316-9200 ..............................................www.lonza.com Lubrizol/Noveon® Consumer Specialties ....66, 78 ..................800-379-5389 ....................www.personalcare.noveon.com Lucta USA, Inc. ..................................................60 ......................800-323-5341 ..............................................www.lucta.com Mibelle AG Biochemistry....................................25 ................+41 (0) 62 836 13 45................www.mibellebiochemistry.com Micro Powders, Inc. ............................................11 ......................914-793-4058 ..........................www.mpipersonalcare.com Pearce Plastics, Inc. ............................................105 ....................626-797-8481 ................................www.pearceplastics.com Personal Care Products Council ........................99 ......................202-331-1770 ......................www.personalcarecouncil.org Pilot Chemical Co. ............................................75 ......................800-707-4568 ................................www.pilotchemical.com Purac America Inc. ..............................................85 ......................888-899-8166 ..............................................www.purac.com Rahn USA Corp...................................................51 ......................630-851-4220 ....................................www.rahn-group.com Rhodia ..................................................................9 ......................800-922-2189............................www.rhodia-novecare.com RITA Corporation ..........................................Cover 2..................800-426-7759 ..........................................www.ritacorp.com Robertet................................................................57 ......................201-405-1000 ..........................................www.robertet.com Sea-Land Chemical Co. ....................................87 ......................440-871-7887 ................................www.sealandchem.com Sederma/Croda ..................................................48 ......................732-692-1652..............................................www.sederma.fr Solabia Group......................................................50 ..................+33 1 48 10 19 40 ............................................www.solabia.fr Spectra Colors Corp...........................................107 ....................800-527-8588................................www.SpectraColors.com ThermPhos ..........................................................88 ......................877-888-4425 ....................................www.thermphos.com Universal Preserv-A-Chem, Inc. ......................104 ....................732-568-1266 ........................................www.upichem.com November 2011

happi.com

happi • 121

Photo News

L’ORÉAL GOLF OUTING RAISES $500K FOR CHILDREN’S HOSPITAL

Isabelle Linton, committee member; Vince Serpico, L'Oréal USA senior vice president, corporate operations North America; Victor Ku, committee member; Fred Theile, committee member; Beth Anne Myarick, community relations director, Children's Specialized Hospital Foundation; Harry Silverman, committee member; Lorraine Ramppen, committee member; Theresa Pastuch committee member; Kristin Conti, committee member; Morris Lenczicki, chairman of L'Oréal USA "Fore The Children" committee, and Brian Wassall, committee member. Photo: Clinton Linton.

•Employees and supporters of L’Oréal USA Corporate Operations North America, Clark, NJ, raised a record breaking $500,000 at its fourth annual Fore the Children charity golf outing on Sept. 19. The money raised will benefit Children’s Specialized Hospital to support the expansion of its outpatient services, improve access to comprehensive rehabilitation care for children affected by brain injury, spinal cord injury, premature birth, autism, developmental delays and life-changing illnesses. Held at Fiddler’s Elbow Country Club in Bedminster Township, NJ, and Fox Hollow Country Club in Branchburg, NJ, the outing drew 780 supporters and included 554 golfers playing 18 holes of golf on two different courses. Attendees also enjoyed silent and live auctions. “L’Oréal USA Corporate Operations North America employees have done an outstanding job on this event. They have really 122 • happi

adopted Children’s Specialized Hospital as their charity of choice," said Morris Lenczicki, L’Oréal USA Fore the Children committee chair,VP corporate operations North America and a trustee of Children’s Specialized Hospital Foundation.“Through our annual Fore the Children Golf Outing and special activities throughout the year, we have shown what can be done to make a difference in the lives of others, and how working together for a special cause brings us closer. This is one of the reasons why community service is such an enriching endeavor.” Major sponsors of the Fore the Children charity golf outing included LA Enterprises, RockTenn, Unette Corp., Albea Group, Alpla, Arkay Packaging, CCL Tube, Century Packaging Inc., Coloredge, DMI-Dimensional Merchandising, IBM Corporation, Packaging Corporation of America, POP Displays US, and Topline Products. •

happi.com

November 2011

DEADLINE DEC. 22, 2011

Contact your HAPPI sales rep for more information. Art Largar • 201.880.2259 • [email protected] Matt Montgomery • 201.880.2225 • [email protected] Beth Russo • 201.880.2255 • [email protected]

REGU®-STRETCH Just relax... forget about stretch marks DSM Nutritional Products, LLC 45 Waterview Boulevard, Parsippany NJ 07054-1298 Phone: 1-800-526-0189 www.unlimitednutrition-na.dsm.com

REGU®-STRETCH protects the skin and reduces the appearance of stretch marks.

North American distributor: CENTERCHEM, INC. 20 Glover Avenue, Norwalk, CT 06850 Phone 203-822 9800, Fax 203-822 9820 E-mail:[email protected] www.centerchem.com

REGU®-STRETCH’s efficacy was proven by performing in vitro and in vivo tests.

www.dsmnutritionalproducts.com

REGU®-STRETCH is an innovative complex of a synthetic peptide and natural ingredients.