HAPPI September 2011

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September 2011 Volume 48, No. 9 www.happi.com

77

FEATURES 58

Alternative Preservatives Inolex Chemical offers personal care and household product formulators a novel chelating technology to prevent the growth of A. niger and make a variety of consumer-friendly claims.

61

Love Is in the Air Consumers are loyal to home fragrance products...but first, marketers must capture their attention.

69

Workhorse Ingredients Developed markets may be teetering on recession, but demand for surfactants remains steady. In fact, demand is downright buoyant in countries such as Brazil, Russia, India, China and the rest of Southeast Asia.

COLUMNS

Cover Story

77

Playing Defense When it comes to daily skin care products, UV protection has become a musthave component.

86

Packaging & Equipment Show in Print

40

Taking a closer look at weird cosmetics

42

A special advertising section highlighting industry suppliers.

EuroTrends Throughout Europe, aesthetics are accessible and acceptable

46

61

Gleams & Notions

Notes from China Nutricosmetics more than a niche in China

50

The Sunscreen Filter FDA: now you’re talking!

Cover design: Laura Caramagna

4 • happi

happi.com

September 2011

Good looks, good sense. Cosmetics offer a feast for the senses – but what about the sense of responsibility? Evonik works with you to see your innovations through to completion, while at the same time living up to environmental responsibilities. That means you can create products appealing to the desire for good looks – and the need to act with good sense.

Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH Essen, Germany phone +49 201 173 2854 Evonik Goldschmidt Corporation Hopewell, Virginia, USA phone +1 804 541 8658 [email protected] [email protected] www.evonik.com/personal-care

DEPARTMENTS 8

Editor’s Page

28

Renewed scrutiny over triclosan

10

Index to Companies A quick guide to the companies referenced in this issue of HAPPI

12

News Front Demand for cosmeceuticals to hit $8.5 billion in 2015

16

Formulary Certainly “no tears” shampoo from BASF

22

Patents Hair straightening treatment containing sugar lactone

Marketing News Nuance Salma Hayek debuts at CVS

38

100

Regulations FDA provides overview of annual ICCR meeting

98

Financial News Estée Lauder posts record results for 2011

100

Packaging News M&H works on deodorant relaunch

102

New Products Go Smile rolls out starter kit

116

Industry News Croda dedicates solar energy system in Edison

130

Photo News Mary Kay flexes its muscle...car

24

International

106

P&G enlists 3D technology for new Ariel launch

102

Meetings HBA to host virtual trade show on Sept. 21

110

112

Universal conditioning agent from Evonik

ADVERTISING SECTIONS

SCC News

123

Contract Packaging/ Private Label

126

Professional Directory

Personnel Roundup

126

Classified Ads

Personnel growth at Lipo Chemicals

128

Advertising Index

Supplier’s Corner

NYSCC to host professional development symposium

114 6 • happi

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September 2011

Editor’s Page

TRICLOSAN COMES UNDER PRESSURE

J

UST AS ONE ISSUE GETS RESOLVED, another emerges. Less than two months after the US Food and Drug Administration issued testing and labeling requirements for sunscreens (see p. 50 in this issue), an Aug. 19 article in The New York Times reported that a battle is brewing over triclosan, an active ingredient found in personal care products such as antibacterial soap, underarm antiperspirants and toothpaste. In fact, a Centers for Disease Control Prevention survey found the chemical present in the urine of 75% of Americans over the age of 5. A couple of months ago, FDA announced that it would not issue a report on the safety of triclosan until at least 2012. Last year, the Natural Resources Defense Council filed a lawsuit to force FDA to complete its safety study, which is primarily focused on the use of triclosan in hand soaps, but it could trickle down to include other products. FDA has already determined that triclosan provides a benefit in Colgate Total by fighting gingivitis. For its part, the industry is vigorously defending triclosan. The American Cleaning Institute’sVP of communication and membership Brian Sansoni told The Times the evidence against triclosan was hardly convincing and that the chemical had been used safely in consumer products and in hospitals for decades. He said there was no evidence that triclosan caused antibiotic resistance. Meanwhile, Henkel, the manufacturer of Dial Complete, stands by triclosan, noting that it has been used in products safely for years. Despite these votes of confidence, industry executives must realize that the issue won’t go away. After all, when the safety of parabens was questioned a few years ago, it caused reformulation headaches throughout the industry (even though many companies quietly went back to parabens when they couldn’t find a suitable replacement).Years before that controversy, protesters called for an end to animal testing. It may be time to hunker down and build a solid, industry-wide defense for triclosan, which is a key ingredient in antimicrobial and antibacterial hand soaps, which represent 50% of the $750 million market for liquid hand soaps in the US, according to Kline & Company. We hope you enjoy this edition of HAPPI. As always we welcome your comments and suggestions.

Tom Branna Editorial Director [email protected]

8 • happi

happi.com

V.P./EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: Tom Branna, [email protected] ASSOCIATE EDITORS: Melissa Meisel, [email protected], Christine Esposito, [email protected] COLUMNISTS: Ally Dai, Harvey Fishman, Navin Geria, Katie Middleweek, Sueli Ortega, Patrick Ropella CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Nancy Jeffries

RODMAN PUBLISHING PRESIDENT: Rodman J. Zilenziger, Jr., [email protected] EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT: Matthew J. Montgomery, [email protected] PUBLISHER: Art Largar, [email protected] ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER: Beth Russo, [email protected] EUROPEAN SALES: Baudry Boisseau Associates Tel: 32-2-513-06-47 • Fax: 32-2-514-17-38 Email: [email protected] ADVERTISING SALES (Hong Kong, Taiwan & China): Michael R. Hay, Ringier Trade Publishing Ltd. Hong Kong (852) 2369 8788 • Fax: (852) 2869 5919 E-mail: [email protected] PRODUCTION DIRECTOR: Sharon Messner, [email protected] ART & TECHNICAL MANAGER: Michael Del Purgatorio, [email protected] ONLINE DIRECTOR: Paul Simansky, [email protected] WEB MANAGER: Jason Lawton, [email protected] CIRCULATION MANAGER: Joe DiMaulo, [email protected] To renew/subscribe/update subscription information, please visit www.happi.com. Or contact: [email protected] Tel: (201) 825-2552 ext. 374 Fax: (201) 825-6582.

A Rodman Publication 70 Hilltop Road Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA Tel: (201) 825-2552 Fax: (201) 825-0553 Website: www.Happi.com happi—Household and Personal Products Industry (ISSN 0090-8878) is published monthly on the 10th by Rodman Publishing Corp., 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA. Phone: (201) 825-2552. Fax: (201) 825-0553. Periodical postage paid at Ramsey, NJ 07446 USA and additional mailing offices. Publications Mail Agreement No 40028970: Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Dept., PO Box 1051, Fort Erie, On L2A 6C7. Circulation Dept.: circulation @rodpub.com. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Happi, 70 Hilltop Road, Ramsey NJ 07446 USA. Free subscriptions to Happi are available to qualified individuals. Others are as follows: U.S. one year $85; two years $115. Outside U.S. and overseas: one year $105 (U.S.), two years $150 (U.S.). Single issue: $12 (except for February, July and October, $15). 5% GST required on Canadian orders. GST#134451756. Foreign Airmail: one year $195 (U.S.). Make checks payable in U.S. dollars through a U.S. bank. American Express also accepted. The publisher reserves the right to determine qualification of free subscriptions. Missing Issues: Claims for missing issues must be made within three months of the date of the issue. PRINTED in USA. Happi’s circulation is audited by BPA International. Authorization to photocopy items in Happi for internal or personal use, or internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted by Rodman Publishing, provided a base fee of U.S. $1 per page is paid directly to: Copyright Clearance Center, 27 Salem St., Salem, MA 01970 USA.

September 2011

Index to Companies

• This index gives the starting page for a department or feature with a significant reference to a brand, finished product company, agency, research firm, retailer or trade association. Subsidiaries are indexed under their own names.

Airwick........................................61 Algenist.......................................24 American Academy of ...............77 Dermatology American Cleaning Institute ....114 AmorePacific...............................24 Annick Goutal............................24 Ariel.............................................24 Arm & Hammer ......................102 Atlantic Coast Media Group ....116 Aura Cacia ................................102 Aveeno....................................... 77 Avon....................................98, 116 Barneys ...................................... 61 Barrett-Jackson........................ 102 Bath & Body Works........... 61, 102 BeautiControl .............................28 Ben-Gay......................................28 Botox ...........................................42 Brampton Company ............... 102 Brands 4 ........................................6 British Association of ...................42 Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons Caldrea....................................... 61 Calgon ........................................28 Calvin Klein Fragrances ...........28 Candle Warmers Etc. ................ 61 Chesapeake Bay Candle ...........61 CK One.......................................28 Cleaning Products Europe .......24 CleanItSupply.com ...................28 Clearasil ......................................28

10 • happi

Clínica Londres ..........................42 CLT International ......................28 Coca-Cola Company ...............116 Colgate-Palmolive..................8, 98 Companiesandmarkets.com .....61 Cosmoprof................................116 Coty Prestige ..............................28 Cow Fart Juice ............................40 Cutler Salons ........................... 114 CVS .............................................28 Daily Defense.............................28 Diadermine Bio Expertise....... 116 Diane von Furstenberg........... 102 Doxapharma...............................42 Dr. Bronner’s ............................116 Dr. Ohhira’s ................................40 E’shee Clinical Esthetic............. 28 Ecolab .........................................98 Elemur Day Spa ....................56 40 Elizabeth Arden......................... 28 Energy Related Devices ............ 22 eSalon .........................................28 Estée Lauder.............................. 98 Exude ........................................102 FDA ...................................8, 38, 77 Febreze........................................61 Filorga .........................................42 Fischer Pharmaceutical Ltd. .......28 Flight .........................................102 Fragrance Foundation..............116 Freedonia Group........................12 Fresh Wave................................. 28 Frost & Sullivan .........................46 Garnier Bio Active....................116 Gesellschaft für äesthetische...... 42 Chirurgie Deutschland Glade...........................................61 Go Smile...................................102 GrabGreen..................................28 Green People............................116 Guthy-Renker ............................77 Henkel.............................8, 28, 116 Hugo Naturals............................61

ICCR ...........................................38 ICMAD .......................................38 Institut’ DERmed .......................77 Intelligent Nutrients ............... 116 ISAPS .........................................42 Jason ...........................................77 Jessica .......................................102 Johnson & Johnson......28, 77, 116 Johnson’s Natural ....................116 Jurlique........................................28 Kiehl’s .........................................28 Kline & Company ......................61 L’Oréal.......................... 46, 77, 116 La Roche Posay ................... 42, 77 LaClinique ................................. 42 Limited Brands ..........................61 Lisa Hoffman Beauty .................61 Living Nature .......................... 116 Love by Kim Kardashian.......... 28 MaddieBrit..................................28 Manic Panic ................................28 Mary Kay ................................. 130 MD Moms ................................. 77 Merz Aesthetics .........................42 Method .....................................116 Mintel....................................12, 77 Mrs. Meyer’s Clean Day ............61 NARB ....................................... 116 Nars ............................................28 Natura........................................ 22 Nestlé .........................................46 Neutrogena ...............................77 No7 .............................................28 Nu Skin...................................... 77 Nuance Salma Hayek ............... 28 NYC Professional Makeup..... 114 Olay Pro-X................................. 77 OMI Industries ..........................28 Organic Monitor ....................... 24 P&G ................................24, 61, 77 Panasonic....................................24 Conopco .....................................22 Personal Care Products Council .38

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Personal Care Truth ...................38 Peter Thomas Roth.................... 40 Phoenix Brands ......................... 28 Physicians Formula Holdings ..114 PitRok .......................................100 PLMA..........................................12 Pro.R.De Vita ............................. 42 Proactiv ...................................... 77 Purina oneCARE .....................102 Reckitt Benckiser ...............61, 114 Red Carpet Manicure ................28 Red Door Spas .......................... 28 Salon Selectives .........................28 Sarah McNamara’s ............77, 116 Miracle Skin Transformer SC Johnson ........................61, 116 ScentSational Technologies ......40 Shiseido ......................................24 Shizuka Day Spa ........................40 Simple Solution........................102 Slatkin........................................ 61 Smashbox Cosmetics................ 28 Snowberry ................................116 Soap & Glory ..........................130 Space NK....................................24 SymphonyIRI Group ................61 Townhouse Spa .........................40 Ulta............................................. 98 Village Candle ........................... 61 Viva La Juicy ..............................28 Walmart ................................12, 61 Wella ..........................................28 WFFC ....................................... 116 WSL/Strategic Research ........... 12 Yankee Candle ........................61•

September 2011

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As of May 2010, PURAC Sanilac is permitted by the EPA for use as a FIFRA active ingredient for DfE labeled products.

News Front

DEMAND FOR COSMECEUTICALS TO HIT $8.5 BILLION IN 2015 • Driven by an aging populace’s desire to maintain the appearance of youth, US demand for cosmeceutical products is expected to increase 5.8% per annum to $8.5 billion in 2015, according to new data from The Freedonia Group, a Cleveland-based market research firm. The target market for cosmeceuticals continues to expand beyond the traditional 45-years-and-older demographic to include much younger individuals, as the national obsession with youth continues and focus shifts to products intended to stave off the first signs of aging. Limiting further gains will be growing pricing pressures due to the expanding market penetration of private label brands and the rapid commoditization of innovative ingredients and products. Additionally, cosmeceuticals face intense competition from alternative treatments, such as cosmetic surgery. The chemicals used in cosmeceutical products provide a competitive advantage by which product manufacturers differentiate their products. Gains will be spurred by the use of new, value-added active in-

gredients in product formulations, noted Freedonia. Antioxidants will remain the largest category, with above-average gains promoted by their incorporation into both topical and ingestible formulations. Botanicals will continue to see the fastest gains in demand as consumers continue to favor “natural”products. Injectables and skin care products will experience the fastest growth, based on anti-aging benefits. Brands such as Allergan’s Botox Cosmetic and Juvéderm have been essentially synonymous with injectables since their introduction, and will continue to lead growth going forward, the company said. The first direct competition to Botox emerged in 2009 with the FDA’s approval of Dysport, which will help to reshape the injectables market. Also, relatively new hyaluronic acid-based dermal fillers will see particularly fast growth. In addition to achieving above-average growth, skin care products will remain the largest product category, set to account for 64% of all cosmeceutical product demand in 2015. Age-defying products will achieve

US Cosmeceutical Product Demand (million dollars) % Annual Growth Item

2005

2010

2015 2005-2010 2010-2015

Cosmeceutical Product Demand

4900

6445

8525

5.6

5.8

Skin Care

3100

4060

5480

5.5

6.2

Injectables

490

686

980

7.0

7.4

Hair Care

475

549

650

2.9

3.4

Lip Care

310

380

430

4.2

2.5

Tooth Whitening

225

310

385

6.6

4.4

Other

300

460

600

8.9

5.5

Source: The Freedonia Group, Inc.

12 • happi

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the fastest gains in the segment, driven by a highly receptive, expanding group of graying “baby boomers,” who want to redress visible damage to the skin caused by aging, ultraviolet radiation and other environmental stressors, as well as a growing number of younger individuals seeking to prevent signs of aging. More info www.freedoniagroup.com

Is Walmart’s Reign As Price King Over? • The Walmart shopper’s value perception has dramatically changed, according to a new research report from to WSL/Strategic Retail that surveyed nearly 1,500 Walmart shoppers. A continuing recessionary mindset, coupled with lower priced competitors, are driving shoppers to other retail destinations, according to the NewYork firm’s“How America Shops”report. At the same time, consumer product companies and other manufacturers need to analyze their exposure and re-evaluate the way they do business with Walmart.The world’s largest retailer is certainly not going to disappear, however, it will no longer dominate the U.S. retail landscape the way it once did, noted WSL. “Our report suggests that Walmart needs to better address the demands of its shopper today in order to regain relevance,” said Wendy Liebmann, CEO of WSL/Strategic Retail. Findings of the report include: • The price king has been toppled. 86% of Walmart shoppers no longer believe that Walmart has the lowest prices. Every brick and mortar retailer lowered prices and shouted sales throughout the recession, while the internet became the go-to place for shoppers in search of the lowest price. If Walmart no longer stands for everyday low price (EDLP), what does it stand for? • Where did the Walmart shopper go? September 2011

® = Registered trademark of BASF group

Skin Care at BASF Photostable UVA solutions with Uvinul® and Tinosorb® UV filters Concepts for efficient protection against the formation of free radicals New formulation platforms to support anti-aging claims BASF SE 67056 Ludwigshafen, Germany www.personal-care.basf.com Tel. + 800 2273 4444

News Front

The Walmart Shopper is finding better shopping elsewhere, including dollar stores, supermarkets, and other mass merchants. The recession accelerated shoppers’respect for the dollar stores. Walmart shoppers, particularly its most frequent shoppers, agree that dollar stores have lower prices than Walmart, more national brands than they used to carry, are nicer to shop, and are more accepted by everyone as they are now mainstream. • The recession is not over for Walmart shoppers. 82% of the retailer’s shoppers say they haven’t seen any improvement in their financial situation in the past year, and 70% don’t expect their finances to get better next year. The economic downturn, credit crunch and higher gas prices, among other factors, squeezed the discretionary spending out of the wallets of Walmart shoppers. More info: www.wslstrategicretail.com

Higher Income Shoppers Like Beauty Bargains • According to a recent report from Mintel, 64% of women in the $100K-$149K income bracket plan to continue buying some store brand/private label color cosmetics and some brand name color cosmetics, meanwhile, only 50% of those in the $50K-$74K and 48% in the $75K-$99K bracket say the same thing. “This does not mean higher income women do not purchase higher end, national brands,”noted Kat Fay, senior beauty analyst at Mintel.“But they can be selective, often spending more on one category or occasion than another.” A third of Mintel respondents say they are buying store brand/private label cosmetics more now than they did this time last year. Not surprisingly, more than half (51%) purchased private label because it offered the best value for the money. Depending on the product, some can be as much as 3040% cheaper than name brand cosmetics. Meanwhile, 33% were motivated to try a private label cosmetic because of a coupon or special offer and 26% of shop14 • happi

pers went on a recomWSL/Strategic Retail has a new study on the mendation from a world’s biggest retailer. friend or family member. “In addition to recommendations and advertising, shoppers are influenced by in-store cosmetic demos,” added Fay. “Demos show a product in action, teach shoppers how to properly use an item and allow them to ask pertinent questions. Retailers say demos always spur sales.” For those who don’t purchase private label color cosmetics, looked at a range of basic food and nonnearly half (49%) say they are happy with food items that an average family might put their brand name product and have no de- on the shopping list during the summer sire to try anything new, 32% say they never season. thought to try something else and 18% fear The study results indicate that conthat store brands use cheap or inferior in- sumers who choose the retailer’s brand for gredients. This offers an opportunity for products on the list rather than the national marketers to educate consumers on the brand could save, on average, $44.04 off quality of their products and ingredients. their total market basket—a savings of More info: www.mintel.com 35.7%. When buying national brands, the total bill came to $123.23 on average over six separate trips, while the same purchases PLMA Says Store Brands for the retailer’s brands cost $79.19. Show 35% Savings Savings, on average, for non-foods cat• A new pricing study that compared a summer shopping basket of store brands egories, were led by laundry detergent (the versus national brands shows that con- store brand version cost 79% less). Facial sumers can save more than 35% off their tissue (50% less), paper towels (34% less) grocery bill, on average, by opting for a re- and aluminum foil (33% less) followed. Store brands during the past decade tailer’s brands. The research, conducted by the Private have experienced unprecedented growth Label Manufacturers Association (PLMA), and consumer acceptance according to industry statistics, gaining 40% in supermarket sales alone, according to PLMA. The products today account for nearly one in four grocery products sold. In a recent survey of consumer’s attitudes toward store brands conducted for PLMA by GfK/Roper, more than half of the respondents described themselves as frequent store brand shoppers, while eight out of 10 said that they believe the store brand products they buy are either equal to or better than the national brands. Wealthier American women shop for name brands More info: www.plma.com • and private label cosmetics, according to Mintel. happi.com

September 2011

©2011 Ajinomoto U.S.A., Inc. All product names shown here are registered trademarks of Ajinomoto Co., Inc.

Formulary

CERTAINLY ‘NO TEARS’ SHAMPOO FROM BASF BASF (973) 245-6398 Email: [email protected] • Website: www.basf.com INGREDIENTS Phase A Water, demin. Dehyquart Guar (Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (CTFA)) Citric acid (50%) Phase B Texapon N 70 (Sodium laureth sulfate) Dehyton PK 45 (Cocamidopropyl betaine) Plantacare 818 UP (Coco-glucoside) Plantapon ACG HC (Sodium cocoyl glutamate) Plantapon LC 7 (Laureth-7 citrate) Lamesoft PO 65 (Coco-glucoside (and) glyceryl oleate) Arlypon TT (PEG/PPG-120/10 trimethylolpropane trioleate (and) laureth-2) Sodium benzoate Phase C Citric acid (50%) Phase D Sodium chloride

WT% 66.0 0.05 q.s. 3.0 7.0 12.0 5.0 2.0 2.0 0.75

Clear and Hydrating Sulfate Free Shampoo Rhodia (888) 776-7337 • (215) 781-6364 (tech service) Website: www.rhodia.com

1.2 0.5

Moisturizing O/W Emulsion Independent Chemical Corporation Glendale, NY 11385 718-326-6620 • Fax: 718-894-9224 Website: www.independentchemical.com

16 • happi

58.5 5.0 1.0 1.0 0.1

PROCEDURE: Heat phase A at +70°C. Heat 7+8+9 at 50°C, +10 sprinkle homogenizing up at maximum speed for 2 minutes. Put under vacuum not continuous (40cm/hg) with stir at maximum speed until 65°C (phase B). Add phase A into phase B little by little, switch off heating and homogenize at maximum speed for 10 minutes. Homogenize at minimum speed while cooling down. At +50°C +11 under vacuum not continuous. At +40°C switch off homogenizer and work with stir at maximum speed while cooling down. At +30°C start under vacuum continuous up to the end.

0.5

PROCEDURE: Combine A while stirring for 5 minutes. Add ingredients of phase B in given order and mix until homogeneous. Finally adjust the pH value with citric acid and the viscosity with sodium chloride.The mentioned amount of citric acid and sodium chloride is approximately. PROPERTIES: pH value (as is)—~4.7; Viscosity (Brookfield RVF, 23°C, spindle 4, 10 rpm)—~4,200 mPa•s.

INGREDIENTS Phase A 1. Xalifin-15 2. Trioxene-LV (Citric ester) 3. Filagrinol (Epidermal moisturizer) 4. Salycuminol 5. PME 6. Undebenzofene-C POB free

Phase B 7. Demineralized water 8. Propylene glycol 9. Hyaluramine-S 10. Idroramnosan 11. Perfume

WT% 20.0 8.7 3.0 1.3 0.1 1.3

INGREDIENTS WT% Water q.s. to 100 Mackadet SFC-1 (Rhodia) (Disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, 30.0 sodium lauroamphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, cocamide MIPA, cocamidopropyl betaine, decyl glucoside) Mackamide LAME-100 (Rhodia) (Lactamide MEA and 1.5 acetamide MEA) Glycerin 1.5 Mackernium 007S (Rhodia) (Polyquaternium 7) 2.0 Mackernium KP (Rhodia) (Olealkonium chloride) 0.25 Mackstat GCM (Rhodia) (Glyceryl caprylate and 0.5 methylisothiazolinone) Citric acid (50%) or NaOH (50%) q.s. Fragrance q.s. PROCEDURE: Charge Mackadet SFC-1 and mix until uniform. Solubilize fragrance in the Mackadet SFC-1 if desired. Add remaining ingredients in order listed; mix well between additions. Adjust pH and viscosity with 50% citric acid or NaOH. Add fragrance and dye. PROPERTIES: Appearance—ClearViscous Liquid; Brookfield Viscosity at 25°C—3,000 – 7,000 cps (LVT, spindle 3, 12 rpm); pH @ 25°C—5.0 to 6.0; Solids, %—15 – 17; Storage—Stability Stable for 1 month (25°C; 45°C ; 4°C) 3 Cycles Freeze/Thaw.

happi.com

September 2011

crodaSedermaHAP0911.qxd:Layout 1

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Formulary

Jeesperse HV-CPW Spray Lotion Formulation J10-45A JM

Tinted Broad Spectrum SPF ~70, PFA (PPD) ~26 Sunscreen Cream Formula JZ3-178

Jeen International (800) 771-JEEN (5336)• Fax: (973) 439-1402 Email: [email protected] • Website: www.jeen.com

The HallStar Company 877-427-4255; 312-385-4494 • Fax: 908-852-1335 Email: [email protected] Website: www.hallstar.com

INGREDIENTS Phase A Deionized water Jeesperse CPW-CG-T (Jeen) (Cetyl alcohol, sodium, acrylate/sodium acryloyl, dimethyl taurate copolymer, glyceryl stearate) Jeechem ISP (Jeen) (Isostearyl palmitate) Jeesperse CPW-S (Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, sodium polyacrylate) Phase B Jeesilc DMC-153 (Jeen) (Dimethicone, dimethiconol) Jeesorb S-20 NF (Jeen) (Polysorbate 60) Jeecide GII (Jeen) (Propylene glycol, diazolidinyl urea, methyl paraben, propyl paraben)

WT% 90.0 2.0

2.0 0.5

3.0 1.7 0.8

PROCEDURE: Mix phase A at room temperature. Add phase B until homogenous.

INGREDIENTS Phase A Neo Heliopan 303 (Symrise) (Octocrylene) Homosalate [Homosalate] Finsolv TN (Innospec) (C12-15 alkyl benzoate) SolaStay S1 (HallStar) (Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene) HallBrite BHB (HallStar) (Butyloctyl salicylate) Phase B AS-5131 (Color Techniques) (Iron oxides (yellow), triethoxycaprylylsilane) AS-5126 (Color Techniques) (Iron oxides (red), triethoxycaprylylsilane) AS-5146 (Color Techniques) (Iron oxides (black), triethoxycaprylylsilane) Phase C Neo Heliopan 357 (Symrise) (Butyl

WT% 2.7500 15.0000 5.0000 4.0000 5.0000 0.0991 0.0470 0.0226

3.0000

SHARED VALUES – SHARED SUCCESS Brenntag Personal Care North America shares your desire to sensitively develop innovative products and solutions. We provide our customers with global access to a comprehensive range of ingredients and worldclass manufacturers through the largest specialty ingredient distribution network in the world. Anticipating the products for tomorrow Our applications lab is continually incorporating new ingredients into formulas relevant to today’s market trends.

18 • happi

Innovating solutions Our technical experts both in the field and in the lab optimize your formulations based on an extensive product portfolio and technical training. Collaborating with customers We understand the challenges and needs of our customers. Our market experienced sales team transforms visions into realities and converts costconsciousness into high performance. Taking a step ahead From multiple locations across North America, Brenntag’s Personal Care

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team offers LTL shipments, sampling capabilities, local customer service and warehousing, exceeding our customers’ needs every day. Do you share our values? Let us show you how to share success. Please contact us to learn how.

Brenntag North America 5083 Pottsville Pike Reading, PA 19605 Phone 610 926 6100 x 3858 [email protected] www.brenntagnorthamerica.com

September 2011

YOUR #1 SOURCE FOR COVERING THE COSMETIC, TOILETRY AND FRAGRANCE INDUSTRIES

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TO ADVERTISE CONTACT YOUR HAPPI SALES REPRESENTATIVE TODAY! Art Largar | 201.880.2259 | ([email protected]) Beth Russo | 201.880.2255 | ([email protected])

Formulary

methoxydibenzoylmethane) (Avobenzone) Neo Heliopan BB (Symrise) (Benzophenone-3) 6.0000 (Oxybenzone) Phase D Emulsiphos (Symrise) (Potassium cetyl phosphate, 3.0000 hydrogenated palm glycerides) HallStar GMS SE/AS (HallStar) (Glyceryl stearate, 3.0000 PEG-100 stearate) Ganex V-220 (ISP) (VP/Eicosene copolymer) 2.0000 Phase E Sunspheres Powder (Dow Chemical) (Styrene/acrylates 3.0000 copolymer) Phase F Water (Deionized) 37.3813 Phase G Versene NA (Dow Chemical) (Disodium EDTA) 0.0500 Phase H Rhodicare XC (Rhodia) (Xanthan gum) 0.1500 Phase I CoSept PEP (HallStar) (Phenoxyethanol, methylparaben 0.5000 ethylparaben, butylparaben, propylparaben, isobutylparaben) Superol K, Glycerine 99.7% USP/FCC Kosher 4.0000 (P&G Chemicals) (Glycerin)

Phase J SF 1202 (Momentive) (Cyclopentasiloxane) Gransil DMG-6 (Grant Industries) (Dimethicone, polysilicone-11) Phase K MSS-500W (Kobo Products) (Silica)

2.0000 2.0000

2.0000

PROCEDURE: To a secondary vessel, add phase A, start mixing, and add phase B. When uniform add phase C, heat to 85°C, then add phase D, in order. When phase ABCD is homogeneous, add E and mix until well dissolved. To the main vessel, add F, dissolve phase G with continued mixing, then add phase H, stirring until fully incorporated. Start heating to 80°C and add premix of phase I. With both phases at 80°C, slowly add the oil phase (ABCDE) to the water phase (FGHI) with prop mixing. Start homogenizing and cooling. When batch reaches 55°C, start sweep mixing and continue cooling. At 50°C or lower, add premix of phase J. When again smooth, add phase K, replace any water lost to evaporation, and mix until smooth and at desired filling temperature. Stop cooling and mixing, perform final quality assurance checks and package product. PROPERTIES (25°C): Appearance—medium beige cream; Viscosity (RV, T-D, 5, 20 & 100 rpm, cP)—67000, 19500 & 5300; pH—6.0.•

When you want a certain additive, chances are we’ve got it right in stock. We maintain a huge inventory of quality products from the best names in the business and we get them to you FAST! • Antioxidants • Biocides • Chelating Agents • Chlorinated Paraffins • Corrosion Inhibitors • Defoamers • Emulsifiers • Esters • Ether Amines • Ethoxylated Alcohols • Fatty Acids • Fatty Alcohols • Lard Oils

• Lubricant Additive Components • Lubricant Additives Packages • Petrolatum • Polyalkylene Glycols • Polyalphaolefins • Primary Amino Alcohols • Rust Preventatives • Sulfonates • Sulfurized Compounds • Synthetic Lubricants • Vegetable Oils • Waxes • White Oils

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20 • happi

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September 2011

Patent review

HAIR STRAIGHTENER TREATMENT CONTAINING SUGAR LACTONE •US Patent No. 7,988,954 B2; Conopco, Inc. Englewood Cliffs, NJ, has patented a method of straightening hair. It entails applying an aqueous hair treatment made of beeswax, gluconolactone, sodium lauryl ether sulphate (EO), cocamidopropyl betaine, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, ethylene glycol distearate and silicone polymer.

Hair Conditioner Patented By KPSS-Kao •US Patent No. 7,988,955 B2; KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services, Darmstadt, Germany, has patented a hair conditioning composition. It contains at least one hair conditioning compound; at least one direct dyestuff selected from cationic, anionic, neutral and natural plant direct dyes; at least one chelating agent selected from the group consisting of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid salts and mixtures thereof; and benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol.The composition has a pH between 2-4.5. It is an emulsion comprising at least one fatty alcohol and at least one emulsifier. Deodorant Manufacturing Method •US Patent No. 7,968,083 B2; The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong SAR, China has patented a method of manufacturing a deodorant. It comprises the following steps: forming polymer particles by reacting a main monomer of (N-substituted alkyl) acrylamide, a functional monomer for bonding the polymer particles to a fibrous substrate, a cross-linking agent, and an initiator and loading a deodorant agent to the polymer particles. The polymer particles have a lower critical solution temperature and the polymer particles are formed at a temperature above the lower critical solution temperature. The deodorant agent is selected from the group consisting of C18:1 dioic acid, C18:2 dioic acid, and phenyl com22 • happi

pounds. The cross-linking agent is selected from the group consisting of 2-(diethylamino)ethyl acrylate, 2-(dimethylamino) ethyl acrylate, 2-(dimethylamino)ethyl methacrylate, 2-(diethylamino)ethyl methacrylate, and N,N′-methylenebisacrylamide (BisAAm). The main monomer is present at an amount of 80-90% by weight of the polymer particles. The functional monomer is present at an amount of 5-15% by weight of the polymer particles. The cross-linking agent is present at an amount of 1-10% by weight of the polymer particles.

Natura Patents Multiphase Cosmetic •US

Patent No. 7,988,981 B2; Natura Cosmeticos S.A., São Paulo, has patented a multilayer cosmetic composition that contains at least one oily phase and at least one aqueous phase characterized in that it comprises a polyol. The oily phase comprises a mixture of at least one mineral oil and at least one vegetable oil. The aqueous phase comprises a water-soluble salt.The composition does not include a surfactant. The polyol is used at a concentration ranging from 25-50% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Wearable Insect Repellent •US 7,988,984 B2; Energy Related Devices, Inc., Los Alamos, NM, has patented wearable arthropod sting reduction apparatus. It is comprised of a chemical system with a gaseous molecular delivery system and a chemical or chemicals that

This wearable arthropod sting reduction apparatus has been granted a US patent.

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attract, repel or interfere with insect behavior. It is also comprised of a container having a permeable layer to contain and release chemical gaseous molecules of those chemicals by diffusion through the permeable layer. The chemicals are comprised of a component that changes chemical state with temperature and acts to moderate the chemical gaseous molecules diffusion rate or vapor pressure. The apparatus has a surface comprised of indicia having a configuration colored and shaped to simulate an eye and eye perimeter tissue. The chemical system is coupled to the surface such that diffusion of the chemical gaseous molecules through the permeable layer is associated with the indicia at a location that enables the indicia to further simulate infrared emissions of a warm blooded animal.

Dryer Sheet •US Patent No. 7,989,413 B2; J. Michael Ogden, Cincinnati, OH, and Arthur V. Shannon, III, Hopewell, NJ, have patented a method of treating fabric in a clothes dryer. It entails applying a nonionic liquid fabric treatment composition with at least one active ingredient to a nonwoven substrate, with the liquid fabric treatment composition being at ambient temperature when applied; placing damp clothing into the interior of the clothes dryer; placing the substrate into the clothes dryer, the liquid fabric treatment composition applied to the substrate being in liquid form when the substrate is placed into the interior of the clothes dryer; tumbling the damp clothing and the substrate in the clothes dryer with the damp clothing and the substrate not enclosed together within a bag or other container, and transferring an effective amount of the active ingredient from the substrate evenly throughout the damp clothing during the course of the drying cycle. • September 2011

International

P&G ENLISTS 3D TECHNOLOGY FOR NEW ARIEL LAUNCH • UAE: P&G has always focused on new ways to make consumers’lives easier, and now it has harnessed 3D technology in that quest, specifically in a new rollout from its Ariel. P&G scientists spent more than three years on a project in which patented 3D technologies were used to see and understand fabrics, fibers and stains, the company said. Tools such as micro computerized tomography (MCT) enabled scientists to see all P&G enlisted 3D technology angles of fabric fibers. MRI for this new Ariel offering. technology helped provide better understanding of how stains penetrate fibers, and scanning electron microscopes (SEM) helped examine the fabric’s surface and better learn how stains get trapped deep inside the fibers. New Ariel with Micro Boosters works by prepping the surface with a polishing action to let the cleaning agents enter the fiber network; it then reduces the negative charge of the micelles, enabling them to get deep within the layers to extract stains from the inside out, according to P&G. The new 3D enhanced Ariel was launched during a two-day event in Dubai. The consumer products giant showcased the “World’s Deepest Cleaning Test,” a 3D projection mapping on a large building within a construction site in downtown Dubai. Ariel with Micro Boosters, which hit stores in the Middle East and North Africa in July 2011, is being rolled out in phases to 24 • happi

Asia, Central and Eastern Europe, and Central and South America.

AkzoNobel Acquires Boxing Oleochemicals •

CHINA: AkzoNobel plans to further strengthen its leadership position in specialty surfactants while enhancing its manufacturing footprint in Asia by acquiring Boxing Oleochemicals, a leading supplier of nitrile amines and derivatives in China and throughout Asia. Established in 1993 and based in the province of Shangdong, Boxing had revenues in 2010 of approximately €100 million. Boxing’s activities will be integrated into AkzoNobel’s Surface Chemistry business, which manufactures and supplies specialty surfactants, synthetic and biopolymers additives, used as formulation ingredients and process aids in many applications ranging from home and personal care to asphalt road paving. Demand in Asia for amines and derivatives is being driven by population growth, expanding middle class, increased focus on sustainability and the build-up of infrastructure, notably in China and India. “This is an excellent opportunity which couples our strategic ambition to accelerate growth in Asia with our commitment to locate production closer to our customers,” said Rob Frohn, AkzoNobel’s executive committee member responsible for specialty chemicals.“Boxing’s leading market position in amines will complement AkzoNobel’s growing specialty surfactant business in Asia. The acquisition will also provide a strong local manufacturing operation in the region.” According to Bob Margevich, managing director of AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry, the“demand for amines and derivatives is expected to increase significantly over the next few years, with a third of the Asian demand for amines coming from China alone. We plan to enhance the process capabilities happi.com

and increase capacity at the Shangdong site by introducing our state of the art manufacturing technology. We will also introduce new products to the marketplace based on AkzoNobel’s product and application know-how.” The completion of the transaction is subject to closing conditions, including the approval of the Chinese authorities. The deal is expected to be finalized in the last quarter of 2011.

Organic Monitor Sees Growth in Middle East • UAE: Healthy growth in the Middle Eastern market for natural cosmetics is continuing despite political instability and social unrest. A new report by Organic Monitor predicts revenues will expand by about 20% this year. Natural cosmetic sales are increasing at a fast rate in key country markets, although turbulence in the region has curbed investment and consumer spending power. The UAE natural cosmetics market is the largest in the region, comprising over half of total revenues. In other countries, demand is mainly concentrated in major cities, such as Riyadh, Kuwait City and Manama. The study finds affluent consumers and tourists generate most demand for natural and organic cosmetics in the region. The major drivers of market growth are growing consumer demand for “chemically-clean” cosmetics and expanding distribution, according to the report. Product penetration is increasing in pharmacies, beauty retailers and department stores. High growth rates, however, are partly because the market is growing from a small base. Compared to Europe and North America where the market share is above 3%, natural products comprise just 0.1% of cosmetic sales in the Middle East. Although the region has a sizeable consumer market, adoption rates are low because of lack of consumer awareness and high product prices. There is also an absence of indigeSeptember 2011

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International

nous brands, with European and US brands capitalizing on high market growth rates. Market leaders include Korres and Neal’s Yard Remedies partly because of their distribution strategies. Both are investing in concept stores, enabling them to educate consumers. Direct marketing also gives these brands the advantage of fostering customer relationships and getting vital feedback. In its Middle-Eastern Market for Natural Cosmetics report, Organic Monitor predicts Neal’s Yard Remedies to become market leader if it continues to expand its retail network in the region. The market analysis finds companies are facing difficulties in marketing natural cosmetics to consumers. Unlike Europe and North America, the Middle East has a small market for organic products, preventing consumer demand to percolate from foods to cosmetic products. In mainstream channels, there is high com-

petition from “pseudo-natural brands,” which are often cheaper and supported by large marketing budgets. More info: www.organicmonitor.com

Algenist Skin Care Brand Debuts in UK’s Space NK • UNITED KINGDOM: Solazyme, Inc. has struck a deal with United Kingdom’s beauty retailer Space NK to expand the sales network of the its skin care line, Algenist, to include all 60 Space NK stores throughout the country. The brand, which features alguronic acid, rolled out in Space NK stores and online in July 2011, retailing between £52 and £76. The Space NK launch bolsters existing retailer offerings, which include Sephora International, Sephora USA, Sephora Canada, QVC and The Shopping Channel. “Algenist has defined an entirely new category of anti-aging skin care products,

which compliment Space NK’s goal of offering selective, high quality, and effective beauty lines from exclusive brands around the world.” In clinical trials, Algenist’s key ingredient, alguronic acid, demonstrated superior anti-aging benefits and outperformed a multitude of highly successful regenerative compounds including hyaluronic acid and retinol, according to the company. “The Algenist brand has galvanized the skin and personal care space by placing biotechnology at the forefront of cosmetic innovation,” said Frederic Stoeckel, senior vice president & general manager, Solazyme Health Sciences.“Algenist has defined an entirely new category of anti-aging skin care products, which compliment Space NK’s goal of offering selective, high quality, and effective beauty lines from exclusive brands around the world.” “We are very excited to announce the

Some people would go to any lengths to diminish the signs of aging.

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International

launch of Algenist exclusively at Space NK stores,” said Nicky Kinnaird, founder of Space NK.“This innovative skin care line, showcasing breakthrough anti-aging ingredient alguronic acid, fits perfectly within Space NK’s brand portfolio, and we anticipate as high a demand and success as Algenist has enjoyed since its launch in the United States.”

Cleaning Products Europe Forms Advisory Committee • ITALY: Cleaning Products Europe 2012, which will be held March 20-22, 2012 in Rome, has formed its advisory committee. The roster includes Keith Grime, president, JKG Consulting and AOCS; Keith Rutherford, global R&D director, Unilever; John Wasonga, R&D technology manager, Reckitt Benckiser; Mark Stalmans, manager scientific external relations, Procter & Gamble; Dirk Develter, R&D manager,

Ecover; and Dallas Hetherington, global innovation manager, AkzoNobel, according to event organizer IntertechPira. With the help of these key industry players, the program will be expertly put together to focus on the need for collaboration between partners, bringing together detergent manufacturers and machinery manufacturers, to ensure both parties are aware of developments in each sector and to develop a platform for synergy, noted organizers. Topics that have been proposed so far include consumer interests and retailer perspectives, performance results from testing laboratories and regional trends. More info: www.cleaningproductseurope.com

Shiseido, Panasonic Link on Beauty Device • JAPAN: Shiseido Co., Ltd. has collaborated with Panasonic Corp. to create a spe-

cial size of Shiseido’s AquaLabel Moisture Lotion for Panasonic’s Handy Mist, an ultrasonic, battery-operated beauty device, which will be released Nov. 1. The device releases a spray of fine mist through an ultrasonic micro vibrating mesh, supplying moisture to the skin in 30 seconds. AquaLabel Moisture Lotion in a 30ml special size is included as a set package with Ultrasonic Beauty Device Handy Mist at the time of purchase. After using up the lotion, refills are available at stores.

AmorePacific Acquires Annick Goutal Fragrances • JAPAN: Amore Pacific Group has acquired French luxury perfume brand Annick Goutal from Starwood Capital. Details of the acquisition were not available. Amore Pacific, which was ranked No. 15 in HAPPI’S 2011 International Top 30 Report, touts Lolita Lempika fragrances. •

At Lipo®, we call them scientists®. Nobody knows where the next big ingredient is going to come from. But at Lipo, we never stop looking for it. So along with formulating technologies and platforms that help companies use it, our scientists go to great lengths—and depths—to find the next big idea in skincare, haircare and color cosmetics. After all, beauty may be only skin deep, but at Lipo we dare to look beneath the surface.

BEAUTY IS OUR SCIENCE® www.lipochemicals.com

Marketing News

NUANCE SALMA HAYEK DEBUTS AT CVS The Nuance Salma Hayek line is new at CVS.

• CVS/pharmacy has rolled out a new exclusive beauty collection, Nuance Salma Hayek. Developed by actress Salma Hayek and CVS/pharmacy, Nuance Salma Hayek is a comprehensive collection of more than 100 products within four categories—skin care, cosmetics, hair care and body. The first complete beauty line developed by an actress in partnership with a national retailer, Nuance Salma Hayek was inspired by Hayek’s grandmother, a cosmetologist who developed her own homemade beauty remedies, according to CVS. Products are said to represent the fusion of advanced, proprietary formulations and personal beauty rituals passed down from generations. Many ingredients, such as tepezcohuite, blue agave, prickly pear and lime enzyme, are being used in exclusive beauty formulas available to the mass market for the first time, according to the retailer. “CVS/pharmacy’s leadership in beauty for the past decade has been demonstrated by a long list of first-to-market innovations for our beauty customers,”said Mike Bloom, executive vice president of merchandising and supply chain for CVS/pharmacy.“Our partnership with Salma Hayek in creating a premium beauty line that is accessible to all women takes our beauty leadership and innovation to the next level. We are proud to introduce this highly-anticipated line, Nuance Salma Hayek, exclusively to CVS/pharmacy customers.”

• BeautiControl held its annual celebration at the Gaylord Texan, July 28-30, and to mark its 30th anniversary, founder Jinger Heath made an appearance. BeautiControl has been a subsidiary of Tupperware Brands since 2001. For the 20 years prior, Heath owned the company with her husband. The cosmetics and skin care firm also rolled out a new online, image and color tool, eBeauti.

the first non-shared fragrances in the CK One portfolio. The CK One shock campaign continues the visual momentum of the CK One lifestyle campaign, which debuted worldwide in February 2011, and evolves the fragrance franchise’s rebellious edge and introduced the brand’s complementary additions of jeanswear, underwear and swimwear. “CK One has maintained its status as an iconic global brand, and the original shared fragrance, since it first launched in 1994,”said Catherine Walsh, senior vice president of American Fragrances, Coty Prestige. “With the introduction of CK One Shock we address the need of today’s consumer to define their individuality while maintaining the core equities of the CK One franchise—authenticity and accessibility. CK One Shock is for the times when you simply do not want to share.” The campaign was conceived by consulting creative director Fabien Baron of Baron + Baron, working with CRK, Calvin Klein, Inc.’s in-house advertising agency. A digital initiative for CK One Shock will also be launched and integrated within www.ckone.com, the global hub for the CK One lifestyle campaign. The multi-prong CK One Shock campaign also features user generated content, mobile applications and a strong global social media component.

• Red Carpet Manicure, LLC, managed by two former Coty Beauty executives, is rolling out Red Carpet Manicure, an LED gel polish manicure and pedicure system that is said to bring the professional salon experience to the masses with a simple and effective at-home application that is ready within minutes. Launching nationwide at Ulta this month, Red Carpet Manicure will be available in 36 shades. Founded by Barry Shields and Bruce Kowalsky, Red Carpet’s gel nail polish lasts for weeks with a fast, safe and easy application that guarantees a professional salon manicure without chipping or peeling. The system includes an exclusive Portable LED light or a Pro:45 LED light that cures the gel polish in seconds for weeks of wear. Red Carpet Manicure, LLC is also consulting with celebrity nail professionals to develop patented color shades and tap into the current nail trends in the industry. The full system costs $57.94 or $2.90 each for 20 at-home applications. The Red Carpet proprietary Portable LED light will be available in addition to the Red Carpet Pro:45 LED light which incorporates identical technology to those in salons. • Miss Black Texas, Oceilia Gibson, from Dallas, TX, was

• Calvin Klein Fragrances, a unit of Coty Prestige, has unveiled its worldwide Fall 2011 advertising campaign for CK One Shock, 28 • happi

crowned Miss Black USA 2011 at the Historic Lincoln Theatre in Washington, DC. Ilex Consumer Products Group’s iconic Cal-

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September 2011

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Marketing News

Texas’ Oceilia Gibson is Miss Black USA.

away promotions. Under this new push, the CleanItSupply.com /Phoenix Brands partnership will work in conjunction with both companies’online media sources, according to CleanItSupply.com owner Dan Dillon. “Through this online team-up, Phoenix Brands and CleanItSupply.com will work in tandem to focus on streamlining their online presences via web optimization, and online media outlet utilization,”said Dillon.

• Fischer Pharmaceutical Ltd. has retained TransMedia Group to introduce Israel’s most popular sunscreen, Dr. Fischer UltraSol, in the US. TransMedia’s campaign will include the line’s extensive range of lotions and sprays for adults, athletes, kids and babies. One major corporation, Walgreens, currently sells Dr. Fischer UltraSol along with a growing number of retailers nationwide. •

gon brand, the presenting sponsor of the event, presented Gibson with keys to a brand new car. Gibson holds a B.A. in Interdisciplinary Studies and is currently pursuing a Masters of Art in Divinity from Southwestern Baptist Theological Seminary. The Calgon brand was launched in 1946 and in the 1960s became famous with its iconic tagline “Take Me Away!” It was relaunched in 2010.

• Bengay, the topical analgesic rub from Johnson & Johnson, is partnering with 12-time Olympic medalist, author and mother Dara Torres as an on-going brand ambassador. Torres will also assist in the launch of the brand’s latest innovation, Bengay Cold Therapy, which uses menthol and the cooling benefits of Pro-Cool Technology to alleviate minor aches and pains. Bengay Cold Therapy rolled out in June. • CleanItSupply.com, an online cleaning supply store, and Phoenix Brands have formed a new a multi-platform marketing and distribution partnership. The online retailer will feature a wide selection of Phoenix Brands products, including Ajax laundry detergent, Dynamo, Fresh Start, Fab, Niagara spray starch and Final Touch, offering customers the chance to purchase products by the case. In addition to the online presence, the duo has also installed a framework plan that aims at taking both companies overall accessibility, convenience and usability to the next level via CleanItSupply.com’s recently enhanced product features. Part of the new partnership between the two cleaning powers is the addition of a Phoenix Brands Mini-Store, that will live exclusively on the CleanItSupply.com website. In addition, CleanItSupply.com will be offering a wide range of Phoenix Brand product give 30 • happi

Four No7 products from Boots have received the Good Housekeeping Seal after evaluation by the Good Housekeeping Research Institute.The Boots No7 products that received the Seal include No7 Protect & Perfect Intense Beauty Serum, No7 Intensive Line Filler, No7 Advanced Renewal Anti-Ageing Glycolic Peel Kit and No7 Protect & Perfect Hand Cream SPF 15. Prior to earning the Good Housekeeping Seal, the No7 products won big in Good Housekeeping’s 2010 Anti-Aging Awards, winning in four respective categories, including Best Anti-Aging Serum and Best Instant Wrinkle Smoother. “The No7 brand is the result of in-depth research & development driven by consumer insights on aging. All products are extensively tested individually and as part of a skin care regime, working closely with a number of dermatology experts and universities to continually make new strides in skin care technology. Receipt of the Good Housekeeping Seal reinforces the brand’s commitment to developing anti-aging products that are backed by science,”said Stephen J. Lloyd, CEO of Boots Retail U.S.A.

• Salon Selectives, Inc., a division of CLT International, has acquired the trademark rights for Daily Defense hair care products. “We are extremely excited about the addition of this popular brand to our portfolio of personal and hair care products,” said Jack Wilkinson, principal of Salon Selectives Inc.“The addition of Daily Defense provides us with two world class brands that we can offer at affordable prices to value conscious women around the world.” According to Wilkinson,

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Daily Defense has a new home at Salon Selectives, Inc.

September 2011

Marketing News

“Women love these brands. We believe that Daily Defense is perfectly positioned for those consumers who look for brands they can trust at prices they can afford and look forward to launching a full range of products that serve this customer’s needs.”

eliminators, said Fresh Wave products will return to the locker room for another season as the“official deodorizer”of the Chicago Blackhawks. More info: http://omi-industries.com

• OMI Industries, the maker of Fresh Wave natural odor

• Smashbox Cosmetics and Social Amp, a provider of onsite social personalization, have partnered to develop a custom shopping experience based on the preferences of consumers and their friends. Using Facebook profile data, Facebook “Likes” and consumers’“Wants,” Social Amp provides Smashbox shoppers with personalized recommendations based on their friends’ preferences, as well as their own. Social Amp’s platform and applications embed the social graph and users’social connections directly into Smashbox.com for brand-focused interaction. “We’ve really brought Facebook to Smashbox.com,” said Beth DiNardo, general manager of Smashbox Cosmetics. “As we move forward in an industry where social media is essential for growth, we are excited to be the first beauty brand to implement a comprehensive shopping experience driven by social popularity and consumers’ social connections.”

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Nars has officially relaunched its ecommerce site, www.narscosmetics.com. The brand partnered with Createthe Group to develop this next-generation e-commerce site that not only delivers an exceptional online shopping experience, but also provides a destination for consumers to interact with the brand. The World of Nars section is dedicated to showcasing lush and engaging brand content that will delight brand enthusiasts and novice customers alike, with exclusive vision and insights from François Nars and Nars artists, stylized brand videos, behind-the-scenes videos from Fashion Week, current and vintage Nars campaigns, and a look at François’Tahitian island Motu Tané and dog Marcel. Additionally, a special section spotlights François Nars’ inspiration behind the brand’s iconic product names. The new site also features “The Wardrobe,” a visual wish list that allows shoppers to create personalized makeup kits based on individual style, tastes and even events.

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September 2011

Marketing News

“The re-launch of narscosmetics.com is a significant step in our strong commitment to evolving the overall digital brand presence for Nars,” said Louis Desazars, CEO, Nars Cosmetics. “We felt strongly that we needed to create a comprehensive online experience that was truly reflective of the brand heritage coupled with a high-impact luxury shopping environment.”

• Manic Panic, the alternative makeup line started by Tish and Snooky— sisters from the original 1980’s band Blondie—has added a new limited-edition palette called Creature of the Night. True to the brand’s heritage, the range offers edgy and bold colors designed to create one-of-a-kind looks.The collection features eye and lip color kits, lipstick, mascara and eye shadow. • Red Door Spas’ national creative director Zahir Ziani was awarded the 2011 North American Hairstyling Award (NAHA) in the fashion forward category. Each year, the North American Hairstyling Awards, the most prestigious photographic beauty competition in North America, celebrates the skill and professional salon artistry of today’s leading stylists across several categories of excellence. NAHA is part of Professional Beauty Association Beauty Week, hosted annually by Cosmoprof North America at the Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino in Las Vegas. More info: www.reddoorspas.com

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Maintaining its long-standing tradition of supporting HIV/AIDS charities, Kiehl’s Since 1851 embarked on the second annual Kiehl’s LifeRide for amfAR, a seven-day charity motorcycle ride, July 31Aug. 6, throughout the Northeast US. With stops at five freestanding stores along the way, the ride was led by Chris Salgardo, president, Kiehl’s USA and Alain de Cadenet, Le Mans racer and ESPN “Speed Channel”host, with notable motorcycle enthusiasts including Jason Lee, Mark-Paul Gosselaar, Tyson Beckford, Tricia Helfer, Justin Chatwin, Katee Sackhoff, Teddy Sears, Christopher Redman and Marguerite Moreau. In addition, Kiehl’s introduced A special pack from Kiehl’s Limited Edition Ultra Facial Cream raises money for amfAR. featuring a special motorcycle motif. According to the company, 100% of Kiehl’s net profits from the sale of this product, up to $25,000, will benefit amfAR.

• Henkel has teamed up with the Alliance for a Healthier • E’shee Clinical Esthetic has rolled out White Truffle Radiance Cream. Truffle extracts, according to the company, are an excellent source of Superoxide Dismutase (SOD), a powerful cellular antioxidant. SOD enzymes provide exceptional cellular protection against free radicals while offering anti-inflammatory properties and ultimately slowing down the aging process. While SOD is naturally occurring in the body, it declines dramatically with age, according to the company.

• MaddieBrit Products’ GrabGreen’s detergent has received an“A”rating from the Cooking Club of America in the Automatic Dishwashing Detergent category. The Cooking Club tested a wide range of detergents from major brands over the past three months, and according to MaddieBrit, testers were impressed with the cleaning power and also liked the convenience of the pre-measured pods and light fragrances. Cooking Club Magazine has more than 500,000 subscribers. More info: www.grabgreenhome.com

GrabGreen Detergent

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Generation, a non-profit organization founded by the American Heart Association and William J. Clinton Foundation working to combat childhood obesity, to launch the Henkel Helps Get Kids Fit program. This back to school season, Henkel will give schools across America the opportunity to win $30,000 through the Henkel Helps program to improve the health and fitness equipment, resources and services available to students. “The goals of the Henkel Helps Get Kids Fit program align perfectly with the Alliance for a Healthier Generation’s goal of reducing the prevalence of childhood obesity by 2015 and empowering kids nationwide to make healthy lifestyle choices,” said Ginny Ehrlich, CEO of the Alliance for a Healthier Generation. “Thus the collaboration between Henkel and the Alliance could not be a better fit.” The 2011 Henkel Helps Get Kids Fit contest will award three schools, one at the elementary, middle, and high school level, $10,000 each to improve youth fitness at their school. The three winning schools will be announced on Nov. 30. More info: www.HenkelHelps.com

• This fall, Viva La Juicy will debut its new global advertising campaign. In a collaborative approach between Juicy Couture and Elizabeth Arden, the new images reflect a modern and sophisticated take on the iconic best-selling fragrance, recognized the world over for its fabulous notes of mandarin, gardenia and sandalwood, according to the company. The evolution of the renowned fragrance’s image from a youthful aesthetic to a more happi.com

September 2011

Marketing News

stylish, elevated feel aligns with the brand’s current creative direction led by LeAnn Nealz, president and chief creative officer.

• eSalon, an online-driven custom hair color service, was featured on NBC’s “Today” show on Aug. 8. On the show, Bobbie Thomas, the“Today”show style editor and guru, spotlighted hair

products, stating,“If you’re afraid to select your own boxed hair color, but would love to find a DIY option, you may want to consider a new‘in-between the drugstore and salon visit’option. eSalon.com offers custom-formulated hair color reviewed by expert colorists and deliver each personalized kit with individual application instructions.”

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Jurlique has officially re-launched www.jurlique.com. Key features include a powerful new ratings and reviews system, a personalized skin consultation tool that recommends products based on the individual’s skin profile and the ability to pre-order new products before they arrive in stores.The site’s improved navigation makes it much easier for consumers to browse and find products, according to the company.

• This October, Wella will roll out Wella Color Charm permanent liquid hair color with Liquifuse Technology, which has a fresh scent. The benefits of Liquifuse Technology begin with the saturation power of liquid permanent color for a quick, accurate application process. The revamped Wella Color Charm fragrance, which is billed as a gentle floral, helps mask the harsh ammonia smell often associated with permanent hair color. It blends a fruity introduction of green pear, soft peach, and sparkling apple harmoniously with floral heart, softened by the background of musky and woody notes. • Love by Kim Kardashian, a soft, feminine scent, is housed in a platinum finish vessel embellished with 450 hand laid clear-cut stones. Each limited edition bottle, numbered and signed by Kardashian, is presented in a noir velvet finish case, inspired by a ring box. Only 1,000 bottles were produced—one for Kim to wear on her wedding day, 200 for her bridal shower and 799 for her fans.•

• Clearasil’s Rock Your Skin Guitar Sweepstakes is offering Facebook fans the chance to win an autographed Gibson Melody Maker Les Paul guitar. The instrument, which was signed at the Clearasil Vibe+Revive Lounge within the Miami ExpressYourself Oasis at the Hard Rock Hotel during Lollapalooza music festival, features autographs from celebrities and musicians. • 36 • happi

happi.com

September 2011

Regulations

FDA PROVIDES OVERVIEW OF ANNUAL ICCR MEETING •The International Cooperation on Cosmetics Regulation (ICCR)—an international group of cosmetic regulatory authorities from Canada, the EU, Japan, and the US—held its fifth annual meeting (ICCR-5) June 28-July 1 in Paris to discuss issues related to cosmetics and cosmetic-like drug/quasi-drug products. As part of this meeting, the regulators entered into a dialogue with cosmetics industry trade associations from each region and other interested parties. The meeting focused on the following topics: alternative test methods, nanotechnologies, safety assessment principles, trace contaminants and involvement of interested parties in ICCR. In June, ICCR regulators hosted an open stakeholder meeting. Participants in this session included members of consumer organizations, industry associations, and academia, with an interest in regulatory issues involving cosmetics. Information on the ICCR process, as well as current work items such as nanotechnology, alternatives to animal testing, trace contaminants and safety of cosmetics was shared. Several proposals for new work items were presented for future consideration. There are plans to have a similar session at ICCR-6, according to the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA). In regard to alternative test methods, regulators received an update from International Cooperation on Alternative Test Methods (ICATM).The report“Applicability of Animal Testing Alternatives in Regulatory Frameworks”within ICCR Regions was accepted. Regarding nanotechnology, regulators accepted the report of the ICCR Ad Hoc Working Group on“Characterization of Nanomaterials,” which describes the characterization methods listed in the annex to the Report of the ICCR Joint Ad Hoc Working Group on Nanotechnology in Cosmetic Products: Criteria and Methods of Detection–ICCR-4. According to FDA’s update, a new Working Group will be formed to examine methods to characterize insolubility, biopersistance, measurement of size in the realm of one to 100nm in final formulations. ICCR-6 will be held in the US in 2012. More info: www.fda.gov/Cosmetics ICMAD Issues Position Statement On Straightening Product Ingredients •The Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers & Distributors (ICMAD) has joined the Personal Care Products Council, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA), the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) and consumer groups that support a safety review by the Independent Expert Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel (CIR) on the use of formaldehyde/methylene glycol in professional hair straightening products. “The CIR in its review reaffirmed its earlier finding regarding 38 • happi

safe levels of use of these ingredients in cosmetic products at concentrations of 0.2% or less,”noted ICMAD in a statement.“Additionally CIR noted that use of these ingredients in hair straightening products with the application of heat could release formaldehyde gas, which is an irritant and sensitizer. We support the work of OSHA, its state counterparts in ensuring compliance with worker safety and hazard communication rules, and the work of FDA in ensuring that the safety of these products is substantiated and the labeling is compliant.”

Group Responds to Safe Cosmetics Act •Personal Care Truth, a group of independent cosmetic business owners who say they represent the interests of the cosmetic industry as a whole, shared its response to H.R. 2359: Safe Cosmetics Act of 2011, a bill recently introduced by Rep. Jan Schakowsky (DIL), Rep. Ed Markey (D-MA), and Rep. Tammy Baldwin (D-WI). Personal Care Truth believes the bill holds universal flaws that could impact the entire cosmetics industry, including large and small businesses. While Personal Care Truth is pleased that Congress is taking a proactive approach at looking at the cosmetics industry, there are several concerning issues in the bill, such as label confusion. According to the group, the bill shows no exceptions for contaminants that occur in nature and appear in botanicals. The process of labeling all components and contaminants of each ingredient will be nearly impossible.

Council Appoints Breslawec as Chief Scientist •The Personal Care Products Council (The Council) named Halyna Breslawec, Ph.D., as chief scientist, replacing John Bailey, Ph.D., who officially retired on July 29 after nine years of service. In her new role, Breslawec will oversee The Council’s scientific programs, technical committees and publications and will serve as the industry’s scientific liaison for several domestic and international organizations. Breslawec worked at the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for more than 14 years in numerous leadership roles directing the review and approval of medical devices at both the office and division levels. She assessed clinical trials as well as the organization and structure of operational units at the Center for Devices and Radiological Health. While working in the FDA commissioner’s office, Breslawec also developed a program to implement FDA’s human subject protection regulations for the clinical and academic communities. Breslawec currently serves as deputy director for the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR). Prior to joining CIR, she worked as a consultant where she was a recognized expert in FDA regulation. More info: www.CosmeticsInfo.org •

happi.com

September 2011

Gleams & Notions

TAKING A CLOSER LOOK AT WEIRD COSMETICS

P

ERUSING THE INTERNET,

I came across the new products and services, detailed below, that I’ll just call weird cosmetics. I list the name of the product, the price and what it is supposed to accomplish. I will not comment further on them, except for the first one listed. Dragon’s blood is a new ingredient that is purported to protect the skin by high antioxidant activity due to its large proanthocyanidin content. This is not the same as Dragon fruit, which is another new ingredient featured in various cosmetic products, and also in foods and beverages, household products and paint. Peter Thomas Roth Laser Free Resurfacer uses Dragon’s blood (a red rosin drawn from a tree in the Amazon). It is a healing serum that evens out skin tone and reduces signs of aging. A 1fl.oz bottle retails for $75. Cow Fart Juice, from a small Brooklyn, NY company called Between You and the Moon, is an herbal oil blend that helps reduce inflammation and heal blemishes. It smells mustier than a barnyard and no cows are used in this vegan product. The cost is $60.

Harvey M. Fishman Consultant Harvey Fishman has a consulting firm located in Wanaque, NJ, specializing in cosmetic formulations and new product ideas, offering tested finished products. He has more than 30 years of experience and has been director of research at Bonat, Nestlé LeMur and Turner Hall. He welcomes descriptive literature from suppliers and bench chemists and others in the field. He can be reached via email at [email protected],

40 • happi

There are many weird and wild ways to get a spa treatment these days.

White Gold Detoxifying Crystal Salt uses Himalayan crystals to draw out toxins from the body. A 30-minute soak in this $85 product is equivalent to a three-day detoxifying program, according to the manufacturer, Zuneta Beauty. Energy Muse Wearable Scent Bracelet is made with a seed that is said to emit positive vibes. Apothia IF perfume is sprayed on the $25 bracelet to make you feel“confident and strong.” Origins Skin Diver (for men) body wash costs $19 for 6.7fl.oz and contains charcoal powder to draw out pore-clogging toxins leading to healthier, less acne-prone skin. Dr. Ohhira’s Probiotic Kampuku Soap contains lactic acid bacteria combined with raw apricot, plum, wild strawberry, Chinese cabbage and more for $12.

Spa Services...Only in New York! The following are curious spa services that are available in NewYork City. Shizuka Day Spa in NewYork offers a Geisha Facial.This $180 treatment involves applying Nightingale excrement to the face. Elemur Day Spa 56 in New York performs ear-candling service. Earwax is removed by blowing smoke through a hollow cylinder into the ear to loosen up the wax. Cost is $60. The practice reportedly improves general health and well-being, but happi.com

medical researchers call the practice both dangerous and ineffective. And finally, Townhouse Spa offers a Babyface Special for $250. Therapists apply spermine, an antioxidant made from synthesized human sperm, to the face. After application, an infrared light is used for further “penetration.”

Weird Science This last subject isn’t so much about weird cosmetics, as it is about“weird science.”Researchers have noted that most of what we call taste happens not in our mouths, but through our noses. Aromas, apparently, trick our brains into thinking we are tasting certain flavors. A company called ScentSational Technologies is attempting to produce tasty products without sugary additives such as corn syrup. One of their projects is working with a baby-food producer to add scent to the product’s cap so that when parents open the jar, they smell “freshness.” Another company is adding fragrance to a cereal maker’s plastic bag, to “sweeten” the product while actually reducing the amount of sugar in the formula. Another product called Aroma Water uses smells to replicate flavors. An FDA approved flavor is sealed into a thin layer of plastic that coats the inside of the bottle cap. Before the seal is broken, the fragrance infuses the water with a fruity scent. When the bottle is opened, the perfume is also released into the air, and it travels along the back of the throat into the nasal passage, enhancing the fruity taste. It remains to be seen just how successful with the public this concept will be. • September 2011

A Salon START, Microsil FINISH.

When formulating premier salon hair conditioners, it’s not about the start, at Chemsil Silicones, it’s all about the FINISH. Microsil® FINISH our newest hair care raw material is designed to create salon brand exquisite hair conditioners and treatment products. Our unique raw material compound is a clear, cationic, aqueous micro emulsion containing a combination of cationic hindered amine silicone and superior organic cationic quaterniums. It was designed for ease of formulation with the simple addition of fatty alcohols (<5%). Microsil® FINISH can also create clear conditioning systems. Microsil® FINISH hair formulas will increase body and volume, while providing silky soft wet comb, dry comb, and brilliant natural shine. Simple formulations containing Microsil® FINISH will create extraordinary results. In order to win, you have to finish….Microsil® FINISH. Chemsil Silicones, Inc., – We Provide Your “Winning” Solutions.

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EuroTrends

THROUGHOUT EUROPE, AESTHETICS ARE ACCESSIBLE AND ACCEPTABLE

T

HE SUBJECT OF aesthetics is certainly one that is growing in prominence in the Big 5 countries with all five reporting increased interest from consumers. Often consumers can simply walk into clinics in order to get procedures such as fillers and Botox, as the procedures have become much more accessible and mainstream. And when it comes to procedures undertaken by surgeons, such as breast augmentation, facelifts and rhinoplasty for example, these are also on the increase, as many plastic surgery industry bodies will testify.

Throughout Europe, more consumers are turning to injection treatments to look younger.

France Fills the Gap The French aesthetics market was valued at approximately $265 million in 2010 and has seen a steady rise in filler and Botox procedures in recent years as French consumers increasingly use them in their quest to look youthful. According to industry body ISAPS, the total number of surgical and non-surgical procedures reached 297,438 last year with surgical procedures accounting for 141,831 of these cases. Liposuction is the most popular surgical procedure in France followed by breast augmentation and blepharoplasty (eyelid surgery). Facial rejuvenation is also a big area in

Katie Middleweek Editor, European Cosmetic Markets European Cosmetic Markets is published monthly by HPCi Media Limited. It provides in-depth data and analysis of the European cosmetics and toiletries market. For subscription details contact HPCi Media Limited, Tel: (44) 0207 193 7447 • Fax: (44) 20 7549 8622

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France and the aesthetics market has seen an increase in energy-based devices such as LED-type products. Therefore, procedures that make use of this gentle light/laser technology are on the increase as they have a less invasive and long-term action on the skin when helping to prevent the signs of aging. One such LED-based product comes from Filorga with its Lumitherapist product, which forms part of the brand’s home use kit. This is a combination of a handheld device that contains the latest generation LED technology with 13 diodes, capable of emitting blue, yellow and red light waves, and a topical LED Booster that contains photo-active ingredients to maximize the effect of the device. According to the company, the combined effect helps to stimulate cellular metabolism, fibroblasts, tissue regeneration and replenish the skin.

German Growth There has been a distinct increase in surgical operations both in male and female patients, compared to previous years, according to Dr. Matthias Gensior, the general secretary of Germany’s largest interdisciplinary body for aesthetic surgeons, happi.com

Gesellschaft für äesthetische Chirurgie Deutschland (GÄCD). This is based on 2009 figures, as those for 2010 are not released until later this month. Figures rose by 20% from 141,000 operations conducted by members of the GÄCD in 2008 to 171,000 operations in 2009. Anti-wrinkle operations were particularly popular with Botox procedures and hyaluronic acid filler injections growing by 50% compared to 2008’s figures. “These figures show that more new patients in Germany, and especially younger patients, are having procedures done than in previous years,” explained Dr. Gensior about this steep increase.“A lively media interest in the topic of aesthetic surgery and increased coverage in respectable magazines and daily newspapers in the country have increased the acceptance of these types of procedures as far as patients are concerned.” “In our medical practices we are also noticing how well informed the patients are about procedures which also shows an improved press coverage in the media as a whole,”he said. The most popular types of surgeries were identical with both male and female patients—surgical laser operations in the September 2011

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EuroTrends

facial area, of which 80,740 procedures were carried out in 2009.This was followed by liposuction (19,237 procedures in 2009) and eyelid operations (12,483).

Saving Up for Surgery Although there are no official figures available at present, the Italian aesthetics sector is booming with more Italians than ever going without a new car or a holiday to have a little“job”done on themselves. According to research company Doxapharma, in a study carried out in April this year with a sample of 1,000 women, it was discovered that the most popular centers for aesthetic procedures in Italy are LaClinique (49%) followed by Pro.R.De Vita (32%).The awareness of Italians about aesthetic treatments is also growing with the research showing that 61% of men and 54% of women have knowledge of aesthetic organizations in Italy, which is certainly more than it was previously. The most popular procedures in Italy are Botox and hyaluronic acid for the face and laser and light treatments for the face and body (tattoo removal, for example).

A Natural Enhancement Like virtually every other aspect of the economy, aesthetic surgery has been hit by the economic crisis in Spain, but some $252 million is still spent each year on a variety 44 • happi

many consumer budgets due to the recession. According to the British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (BAAPS), the number of aesthetic surgical procedures showed a slow but steady rise last year, increasing 5% to 38,274 procedures. Breast augmentation, blepharoplasty and face and neck lifts were the most popular surgical procedures among women, while for men, rhinoplasty, gynaecomastia (breast reduction) and eyelid surgery topped the Liposuction continues to charts. In fact, in men, the numfind favor with Europeans ber of breast reductions, or intent on losing weight. “moob jobs” grew 28% to 741 procedures. of processes in clinics and hospitals alone. Popularity was also strong in the nonThe most popular operation in Spain is, surgical procedures market with demand common to the global trend, liposuction for treatments such as Botox, fillers and followed by breast enlargement and rhino- other injectibles showing no signs of plasty. While in previous years, aesthetics waning. treatments had perhaps overly visible reAs a result, the aesthetic trend is besults, the key word nowadays is“natural.” ginning to filter down to the high street “This means little retouches that are with several non-professional brands hardly perceptible but the result is a more launching products specifically targeted at defined face, revitalized skin or a younger the post-operative market. facial expression,” said Dr. Ángel Luis For example, NuBo has introduced a Sierra, a specialist in aesthetic medicine at highly concentrated serum designed to act Clínica Londres, which has aesthetics clin- against the telltale signs of aesthetic proics all over Spain. cedures such as Botox, filler injections, mi“This natural trend is such that people crodermabrasion, chemical peels and are not aware of the aesthetic treatment mesotherapy. It is claimed to act against irtaking place, they simply see the patient ritation, helping to restructure the skin’s looking more beautiful without knowing connective tissue, reducing redness, bruiswhy,”noted Sierra. ing, swelling and puffiness. And L’Oréal Much can now be achieved with fillers brand La Roche Posay has launched Ciand a recent arrival on the Spanish market is caplast Pro-Recovery Skincare, designed Radiesse Volumising Filler from Merz Aes- for flaking, chapped skin and skin that has thetics. The calcium-based microspheres undergone a cosmetic peel. and gel in the product are designed to reThere is little doubt that the aesthetics duce the signs of aging by stimulating the market is on the march in Europe with skin’s natural collagen levels, boosting its people now confident that they can be volume and reducing wrinkles. After a sim- more open about what procedures they ple injection, the results can last for up to a are having and why. Many would certainly year and, in some cases, even longer. feel that it is the bringing of such issues into the mainstream that has made it more acceptable and therefore has encouraged An Increase in Injectibles The UK aesthetics market has held up well its growth. And aestheticians and clinicians in the past year despite the squeeze on alike are hoping this growth continues.• happi.com

September 2011

How would you know if you could always be a part of his life? Keep tomorrow in mind in all that we do today. At Emery Oleochemicals, we take great pride in being one of the world’s largest natural-based chemical producers that constantly strives to meet your needs better. That is why, we have added green surfactants to our range of products. Now we have an even more extensive portfolio to offer you in home and personal wellness. Together with our continuous R&T effort and vast worldwide network, we will keep our innovative solutions always within your reach.

Notes from China

NUTRICOSMETICS MORE THAN A NICHE IN CHINA

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HILE REMAINING A nascent category in much of the world, nutricosmetics have been better accepted in Asia, especially China. In comparison to their western counterparts who are still skeptical about the viable benefits of this type of products, Asian consumers have been buying into the beauty-from-within concept and are quick on the uptake of nutricosmetics. According to Frost & Sullivan, Asia is estimated to account for about half the world’s total nutricosmetics sales with $1.33 billion, and while Japan represents the largest nutricosmetics market in terms of sales, China is expected to grow strongly during the period 2011 to 2015 and overtake it by 2015. A report from Datamonitor also shows that for per capita spending, Asia is clearly the largest region, with Japan way ahead of the rest with almost $19, followed by South Korea and Hong Kong with approximately $7. Apart from rising disposable incomes and increasing beauty concerns, cultural acceptance of the beauty-from-within con-

Asian consumers have been buying into the beauty-fromwithin concept for years.

cept is a major driver for strong growth in China’s nutricosmetics market.These messages of inner beauty are simple to convey to Chinese consumers and easy for them to understand, as this classical approach can be traced back to ancient times when various natural foods were used to cure numerous beauty related problems, such as green bean used for treating acne, pearl barley for pigmentation, and white fungus (Tremella fucitormis) to hydrate the skin, to name a few.

Common Ground And Differences Ally Dai Happi China Ally Dai is senior editor of HAPPI CHINA. She has more than 10 years of experience in the cosmetic and food industries. HAPPI CHINA is a leading media for the China household & personal care industry. Published by Ringier Trade Media in strategic editorial partnership with HAPPI, it helps local manufacturers update their knowledge on formulating, testing and packaging, as well as providing market insight.

Website: www. industrysourcing.com

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Despite lack of clear legal definition, nutricosmetics are widely recognized as products that when ingested have an effect (preventive or reactive) on appearance. As the concept becomes more popular in China, nutricosmetics present growth opportunities to both established companies and new entrants. By simultaneously addressing the consumer need for nutrition and appearance enhancement, the beauty-from-within category growth remains impressive, and more products are hitting the shelves. Almost the same as the other markets, happi.com

Chinese nutricosmetics manufacturers are primarily from the food or cosmetic industry, and their products take the form of either food/beverage product or dietary supplement, mainly targeting people with relatively high levels of disposable income, especially young women. Most of these products tend to focus more on specific parts of the body, including the skin, hair and nails, rather than making generalized beauty-from-within claims. Common ingredients in today’s Chinese nutricosmetics include collagen, minerals, vitamins, polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) and prebiotics/probiotics as well as fruit/vegetable extracts claiming to nourish the skin, nails and hair. These ingredients go into different product applications, with the greatest focus on weight management, skin complexion/texture improvement, moisturizing, anti-oxidation and anti-aging, followed by UV filtering and hair growth. With a rapid increase in the number of aging people in urban areas, products offering anti-aging and hair-losscontrolling properties are expected to benefit most from this demographic change. September 2011

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Notes from China

Entrepreneur Expansion In China, the idea of capitalizing on modern nutraceutical trends with advanced active ingredients, such as collagen and vitamins, arose in the 1990s, when Imedeen entered China in 1997 with its collagen-based dietary supplement. The company went on be very successful, and ever since then, beauty-from-within products featuring collagen, along with vitamins and minerals, have been dominating Chinese nutricosmetic sales. Herbal and fruit extracts are also gaining popularity in nutricosmetics as Chinese consumers are shifting toward naturalbased products due to concerns over safety of synthetic ingredients. And with those products positioned as natural, which are highly favored by consumers, we are now seeing an increasing utilization of traditional food ingredients by nutricosmetics manufacturers. One of latest examples is Brands’InnerShine Berry drink from a Singapore-based nutraceutical company. Featuring the extracts of four berries, blueberry, blackcurrant, cranberry and açai berry, it claims that these natural ingredients will help the body detox from within, to promote outer radiance complexion and body contour by taking a bottle every day and night. Another good example of better utilization of traditional food ingredients is Hanbo Red Date Powder drink, which comes from a local food company specializing in red date processing. Thanks to red date’s well-known reputation of nourishing blood and improving skin’s complexion in China, this latest launch targeting young women has gained immediate success in the market within a few months. Exploring this less competitive, highly potential market is also the thinking behind some traditional cosmetic manufacturers’ decision to launch nutricosmetics. Apart from their topical products, quite a few traditional cosmetics companies are expanding the integration of product lines. To complement its topical products, Herborist, one of leading local brands, has launched a series of herbal tea products claiming to help 48 • happi

happi.com

maintain the balance of internal body and therefore promote the integral health of skin and hair. Innéov, the joint venture of L’Oréal and Nestlé, is also reportedly entering China this year with the beauty pills.

Barriers to Growth Although there is no shortage of consumer awareness and less skepticism about nutricosmetics’ benefits in China, a lack of regulatory guidance on formulation and benefit claims has been a barrier to growth. Like the rest of the world, there is no clear regulation for production, promotion and categorization of nutricosmetics in China. In fact, the overall China nutraceutical market has not been strictly regulated so far. This is, however, about to change due to numerous safety and false advertising scandals in China in recent years. Regulation on Supervision and Administration of Functional (Health) Foods proposed by the State Council is currently under review and widely believed to be passed and introduced at the end of this year. Under this new regulation, all aspects of nutraceutical products are strictly stated, from product approval, manufacturing/marketing to function claims, and beauty-related function claims have been restricted to only two, “anti-oxidation” and“helping promote facial skin health.” The latter is the generalization of “antiacne” and “anti-pigmentation” claims allowed in the previously proposed regulation. Other previously approved claims on nutricosmetics, such as“retaining skin moisture” and “regulating skin oil,”will be banned in China. The new regulation is expected to have a tangible impact on the dynamics of China’s nutricosmetics market. On the one hand, as difficulties still remain in innovating an edible cosmetic that has good taste, product benefits and stability, some industry insiders are worried that the regulation may restrain the future development of nutricosmetics in China. On the other hand, since nutricosmetics are nothing new to most of Chinese consumers, the new regulation can help products build consumer trust through official accreditation. • September 2011

The Sunscreen Filter

FDA: NOW YOU’RE TALKING!

A

FTER YEARS OF SILENCE, indecision and conflicting regulations, the FDA has finally begun proposing Final Rules in sunscreens. More importantly, a new image has appeared in strong contrast to the once reticent FDA. We have rarely had an FDA spokesperson appear in our meetings and they are scarcely forthcoming with responses in debates. Skin cancer rates are still on the rise yet no clear regulations were available to arbitrate and offer guidelines for safe and effective products, rules and control. Now things are changing! In the most recent round of regulations that started on June 14, the FDA issued four detailed documents, namely: Labeling and Effectiveness Testing; Sunscreen Drug Products for over-thecounter Human Use—Final Rule (174 pages); Proposed Rule (26 pages); Advanced Notice of Proposed Rule Making (14 pages) and a Guide for Industry.1-4 FDA also held a press conference attended by Janet Woodcock, M.D., director of the Center for Drug Evaluation and Research, FDA, Reynold Tan, Ph.D, inter-

Nadim Shaath Alpha Research & Development Ltd Dr. Nadim Shaath is the president of Alpha Research & Development, Ltd. in White Plains, NY. He has over 30 years of experience as chairman of the chemistry department at SUNY-Purchase and the CEO of Kato Worldwide. Recently he formed a consulting company serving the cosmetic industry called ShaathMeadows Corporation (SMC) with laboratories in New York, New Jersey, Texas, Florida and Egypt. He can be reached at [email protected].

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Fewer issues are clouding the US sun care market these days.

disciplinary scientist CDER/FDA, and Ronald L. Moy, M.D., president of the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD). In addition, FDA released a very informative video for the consumer and those interested in hearing more and getting clarification about the new Final Rule.5 Since then, I have personally communicated with Dr. Tan on a number of issues. His answers and responses were extremely forthcoming, open and helpful. He also agreed to participate in a HAPPI open forum webinar as well as a round table panel at the upcoming Florida Sunscreen Symposium. The question that could be asked is why now? Did the FDA finally feel the heat from Congress, all those politicians who tossed their hat into the ring? The consumer advocacy groups? Other international regulatory organizations? The Personal Care Product Council? Or the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD)? Or was it the consumers and scientists who voiced their concern? Was our focused attention on their slow-asmolasses process inspirational? Regardless happi.com

of whose influence proved most effective at generating results, action on these issues has been of top importance for years and, finally, we see some movement.

Starting a Dialogue On Aug. 11, HAPPI hosted both FDA’s Dr. Tan and me for a 70-minute discussion of the recently announced Final Rule. The response was overwhelming, attracting more than 1,200 registrants who called in hundreds of questions. I continue to receive feedback and inquiries, which is a great sign that we are all feeling the weight of responsibility as well as feeling collectively empowered to see the regulations through to a successful conclusion. Let me share with you the highlights of what transpired during and after that webinar. Dr. Tan gave an excellent presentation on the Final Rule in sunscreens, the Proposed Rule for capping the allowed SPF to 50+ and the Advanced Notice of Rule Making (ANPR) for regulating sprays and other dosage forms. He also spoke about the intended follow-up by the FDA and measures to enforce the September 2011

The Sunscreen Filter

Final Rule in the US. As it has been the case for the past 30 years, my presentation dealt with the problems in regulations and specifically for what was not“Final”in the Final Regulations. Here are the issues that were not addressed in the Final Rule: 1. No decision was made on the eight TEA ingredients. 2. No decision was made on the combination of avobenzone with zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, ensulizole, meradimate, PABA and padimate O. All are still not allowed combinations with avobenzone. 3. The decision to allow SPFs higher than 50 has been relegated to the Proposed Rule, until a Final Rule is issued in the future. SPFs higher than 50 will still be allowed despite the FDA’s stated position of not favoring their inclusion in the Final regulations. 4. The decision to disallow sprays and other dosage forms has been consigned to the ANPR. Sprays are still allowed during this interim period. 5. No action has been taken concerning labeling sun care products as “natural” or the practice of using photostabilizing ingredients or quenchers that are also

UV absorbers. 6. Despite their assurances that all the current ingredients in sunscreens have a clean bill of health, a study of their safety has yet to be completed—this includes the issue of nanoparticles. See Dr. Tan’s comments on nanoparticles of zinc and titanium oxides that follow. 7. Harmonization with other international organizations (eg. EU, Japanese, Australian, etc.) has not been accomplished. 8. The testing parameters still require debate as many in the industry are voicing their concerns related to the application dose, the roughness of the substrate, the input optics bandwidth, the wavelength interval, and other issues that are not clearly defined. The questions called in to the webinar reflected the genuine concern that practitioners in our field feel concerning the specifics of the Rule, its application and its enforcement. Here are some of the key questions that were fielded by Dr. Tan: Q: Can you clarify if the drug facts have to go on both inner package or just on outer package? A: The Drug Facts panel must appear on the outer package label. Requirements

for inner package labeling are described in 21 CFR 201.10(h)(2)(i). In summary, the inner container label must include the proprietary name, established name, lot/control number, and the manufacturer, packer or distributor. Q: Can we manufacture products before June 2012 and sell the current formula or does the new formula have to be done before June 2012? A: The effective date for the final rule is June 18, 2012. All OTC sunscreen drug products marketed under the OTC monograph system and introduced into interstate commerce after that date must comply with requirements in the June 17, 2011 final rule. Q: If a sunscreen has been tested and on the market since prior to 1999, does it have to be retested? A: By June 17, 2013, all OTC sunscreen drug products marketed under the OTC monograph system must be SPF tested according to the SPF test procedure parameters in the 2011 sunscreen final rule. Q: Is“sweat resistant”an allowed claim? A: Under the 2011 final rule,“sweat resistant” is not an allowed claim. Sunscreen products that are tested according to the water-resistant test can label as “water resistant (40 or 80 minutes).” Q: Are pull out or outsert labels allowed on products that have small cartons? What about products that are being used as “testers or samples” specifically lipstick with 0.01oz in each tester bullet? A: Pullout and outsert labels are allowed on OTC drug products that have limited labeling space (e.g., small cartons). This type of labeling is one way to include the required labeling information for small size products, like lipsticks that contain sunscreens.

With the FDA’s recent rulings, consumers may better understand sun protection.

Q: Since sunscreen products make cosmetic claims, should the inactive ingredients be listed in descending order or are we allowed to choose? 52 • happi

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September 2011

The Sunscreen Filter

CLINICAL SPF TESTING INSTRUMENTATION A: If the product is an OTC drug product that is not also a cosmetic product, then the inactive ingredients shall be listed in alphabetical order. If the product is an OTC drug product that is also a cosmetic product, then the inactive ingredients shall be listed in descending order of concentration (see 21 CFR 701.3).

Precision

Solar Light Ultraviolet simulators and radiometers conform to FDA & COLIPA spectral irradiance standards for clinical SPF testing.

Q. Will the FDA be testing safety of ALL ingredients including inactives? A: FDA will be evaluating the safety of all sunscreen active ingredients. It is the manufacturer’s responsibility to ensure that its products’inactive ingredients are safe in amounts administered and do not interfere with the effectiveness of the preparation or with suitable tests or assays to determine if the product meets its professed standards of identity, strength, quality and purity (21 CFR 330.1(e)).

Experience

Used worldwide for over 40 years, providing consistent SPF results, year after year, lab after lab.

Q. Does the FDA have any research on nanomaterial safety? Is vitamin A carcinogenic in sunscreens? A: FDA is currently reviewing the safety of nanoparticles. For nanoparticles, we are typically talking about ZnO and TiO2. Based upon data we have on TiO2 nanoparticles, there seem to be no significant permeation into the outer layers of the skin. So at this point we do not have any reason to be concerned about the safety of nanoparticles of TiO2. (Note: An FDA study by N. Sadrieh et. al was cited as evidence.6 Also, C&E News has an interesting write up on nanoparticles in sunscreens that should be consulted.)7 The purported carcinogenicity concern with vitamin A in sunscreens is a result of a study of retinyl palmitate, a vitamin A derivative. That study does not definitively demonstrate that retinyl palmitate is a carcinogen for humans. It is a study in mice predisposed to developing tumors. The control arm of the study (i.e., the mice administered the drug vehicle without retinyl palmitate) also developed a high number of tumors. FDA will continue to monitor safety data, and if a safety signal becomes apparent, FDA will take the necessary corrective action. Note: A recent report on retinyl palmitate by S. Wang et.al has been published and should be consulted.8

Enhanced Multiport™ Features

NEW Exposure Positioning System Optional Mobile Work Station >95% SPOT UNIFORMITY

Many other questions were posted but the time ran out. I will tackle the important questions in a future column.

Addressing Vital Issues

100 EAST GLENSIDE AVE. GLENSIDE, PA 19038 USA Ph: 1-215-517-8700 Fax: 1-215-517-8747 www.solarlight.com 54 • happi

During the Florida Sunscreen Symposium, which will be held in Orlando Sept. 14-17, a roundtable discussion moderated by Dennis Lott will address the following vital issues.9 A panel has been selected that will address the point and the counterpoint for each of the following questions and issues: 1. Are in vitro SPF methods viable? The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) method has been around since the 1970s with very little actual change except perhaps the initiation of specifications for

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September 2011

The Sunscreen Filter

the solar simulator device. Is this SPF number really realistic? Is it, in fact, better than in vitro methods? Dr. Robert Sayre will comment on the SPF method, specifically the spectra of the solar simulators used for testing and how it differs from the sun’s spectra, and how this would make SPFs under realistic sun conditions as compared to SPFs predicted by solar simulators. Joe Stanfield will talk about the various efforts throughout the world including the ISO directive to develop in vitro methods and the problems associated with. 2. Does a Critical Wavelength (CW) of 370nm or higher provide adequate UVA protection? UVA protection has been a subject for so long in the US, long after other entities have decided on a method for testing. The FDA appeared to settle on methods and labeling in 2007, and then, on June 14 of this year, dropped a bomb on us. Whereas in 2007 the Administration stated that a Persistent Pigment Darkening in vivo method and an in vitro method were necessary to establish the UVA ranking and labeling, the June 14 Final Rule only required a CW of 370nm or higher.The 370nm CW is much weaker than the earlier 2007 requirement. Dr.Tan will get the discussion started by enlightening us as to the reasoning behind the FDA’s decision, and he will explain the FDA’s rationale behind the 370nm UVA requirement. Dominique Moyal (L’Oréal) will explain that a CW of 370 is very weak. The EU system of 1/3 UVA PF to SPF requires more UVA protection. In fact, a 370 CW has less UVA protection than most high SPF products on the market today. The 370 CW will ultimately cause manufacturers to weaken the protection afforded in the UVA spectra. 3. SPF must be labeled as tested. The Final Rule stated that“FDA’s general approach to combination drugs prohibits the inclusion of additional active ingredients if they do not provide additional benefit.” What FDA is really saying is if the tested value is SPF 39, then SPF 39 is how the September 2011

product must be labeled. Dr. Tan will explain the rationale: SPF should be labeled as tested per the monograph. That is, the labeled SPF is the next integer below the tested value. If this rule is not followed, products could be over formulated, and violate FDA’s approach to combination drugs. I will argue that this will cause confusion if the shelf is stocked with SPFs of all numbers. How will consumers know the difference between SPF 44 and 46? If SPFs exceeding 50 are not allowed, then it would be incredibly difficult to obtain a product that ended up with an SPF of between 50 and 51. 4. Limiting SPFs by limiting the amount of sunscreen allowed in the product. The FDA suggested that one way to limit SPFs would be to limit the amount of sunscreen allowed. We solicit comment on whether FDA should address this issue through a direct limit on product formulation rather than through labeling. We also solicit comment and data on how to establish the maximum SPF value as a formulation limit (if one were to be set). This is how sunscreens should be regulated. A standard formula should be established for each SPF. This is how most OTCs are regulated. I will offer an opinion as to why this is a good approach. For example, most, if not all, of the OTC drugs have ranges for the actives which allows claims to be made with no further testing required. Why should sunscreens not be the same? Joe Stanfield will counter that, based on years and years of testing, it is impossible to predict an SPF based on the amount of sunscreen in a product.“The inactive ingredients can have a profound effect on the SPF of a product. Also, this would probably eliminate further research. There would simply be no incentive to conduct research in an attempt to make better, more effective products.” 5. SPF should be capped at 50? Stanfield will state that the FDA has basically capped SPFs at 50+, yet millions of conhappi.com

sumers annually buy products over SPF 50. It is estimated that 50% of the market is now SPF 50 or above. Dr. Tan will explain the FDA’s position on this sensitive subject. SPF should be capped at 50. There is no measureable increased performance beyond SPF 50. An SPF 50 would theoretically protect a user against 50 MEDs. Nowhere on earth would a user ever receive 50 MEDs and, in fact, 30 MEDs is routinely published in the literature as the maximum amount that can be received on earth. Additionally, the FDA states in the monograph that data has been supplied to prove that the SPF test is adequate to test SPFs of 80, but there is no data to show that SPFs of over 80 can be adequately tested. Dennis Lott will offer a counter opinion. He will argue that consumers need more protection for the following reasons: A. Studies show that consumers never use the tested amount; thus, they never receive the full labeled SPF. The“30 MEDs”is a theoretical number based on the amount of erythemically effective energy needed to create mild sunburn on the average skin Type II individual. There exists a large population group that react much faster than that; thus, there would be more than 30“MEDS.” B. Lott will show slides of actual outdoor studies that show a clinical difference between SPF 50 and SPFs 70-85. 6. Must sprays supply more data to show they are acceptable dosage forms? The FDA has requested more data concerning sprays. In particular, there seems to be a concern about amount used, uniformity of the spray, and the difference in SPF if sprayed rather than rubbed. Dr. Tan will explain the FDA’s position arguing that sprays must have more data submitted to be allowed. Specifically, they must address the following: 1. Sprays must provide data showing consumers how to use enough of the product. Anyone watching a user apply a spray product knows that only a fraction of the product happi • 55

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actually hits the user. 2. The Monograph states to apply “fifteen minutes before sun exposure,” yet this product is typically used as an easily applicable product that is sprayed on at the beach, pool, etc. 3. Data should be supplied showing the product is equally effective if rubbed or sprayed. For example, the FDA is suggesting labeling that instructs the consumer to spray in the hand and then rub on the face. How do SPFs vary when a user does not apply as much as used in the laboratory tests? Dr. Olga Dueva-Kogonov will offer insights and recent data concerning sprays. Sprays are no different than lotions and creams where every study ever performed shows consumers do not use enough product. If it is known that for accepted dosage forms of lotions and creams are not applied and used correctly, why should sprays be

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held to a different and more rigorous standard? Also, sprays hold about a 30% market share in the US mass market sun care arena. It is obvious that sprays enjoy a tremendous following from consumers. It is unreasonable for the FDA to not allow this dosage form and risk alienating consumers. This could only exacerbate the real problem with sun care users do not use sunscreen often enough. A slew of new questions have been generated by the recent FDA announcements of the planned final rules for sunscreens.This is an exciting time where the potential to resolve outstanding issues is finally within sight.The FDA has, at long last, responded to the pressure from concerned interests. Our persistent attention is still required to carry these new plans through to a successful completion. The fact that there is genuine discussion and participation from the industry and the FDA, is a good sign. Future product developments are on the horizon,

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and the reduction of preventable skin cancers will occur in the near future. Let’s keep moving in that direction! And let’s keep talking. •

References 1. http://www.fda.gov/downloads/Drugs/Gu idanceComplianceRegulatoryInformation/Guidances/UCM259001.pdf 2. http://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/FR-201106-17/pdf/2011-14766.pdf 3. http://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/FR-201106-17/pdf/2011-14768.pdf 4. http://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/FR-201106-17/pdf/2011-14766.pdf 5. http://www.fda.gov/Drugs/ResourcesForYou/Consumers/BuyingUsingMedicineSafely/UnderstandingOver-the-CounterMedicin es /ucm239463.htm 6. N. Sadrieh, et.al,Toxilogical Sciences, 115(1), 156-166 (2010). 7. C & E News “Scrutinizing Sunscreens”, pp44-46, August 8, 2011. 8. S. Wang, S. Dusza and H. Lim, J. Am. Acad. Dermatol., 31, July 2010. 9. www.FLSCC.org/sunscreensymposium.

September 2011

Alternative Preservatives Inolex Chemical offers personal care and household product formulators a novel chelating technology to prevent the growth of A. niger and make a variety of consumer-friendly claims. Tom Branna • Editorial Director

T

have been in the news for the past couple of years, but in many cases, for all the wrong reasons. Environmental groups and regulators have taken aim at these important ingredients, especially parabens, basing their arguments on flimsy links to cancer. No wonder why there has been a renewed call for paraben-free cosmetic and personal care formulas. But how can chemists produce these products and, at the same time, ensure their safety? Inolex executives say they have an answer via their innovative chelating technology. “The world of alternative preservatives is evolving,” explained Daniel Winn, PhD, director, personal care, Inolex Chemical. “Inolex is an expert in how to create paraben-free formulas.” To overcome the weak fungistatic properties of glycols, which have good bacteriostatic properties, Inolex researchers turned to caprylhydroxamic acid (CHA), said to be an ideal organic acid, because it is efDaniel Winn fective at neutral pH and it has selective and powerful chelation for Fe2+ and Fe3+. Mold growth is reduced in iron-limited environments. The first generation of materials from Inolex blended CHA with the glycols and the RADITIONAL PRESERVATIVES

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Inolex makes it easy and, in many cases, economical, to ensure the integrity of body washes and other personal care formulas.

result was a broad product line that includes Spectrastat (CHA + caprylyl glycol), Spectrastat G (CHA + glyceryl caprylate) and Spectrastat E (CHA + ethylgexylglycerin). These blends debuted in 2008 and have been used by several companies in a wide range of leave-on skin care and prestige cosmetics.

Cost-Effective Solutions But Inolex researchers realized that there was still a need for CHA blends using economical glycols for use in mass-market cosmetics and toiletries.This demand led to the creation last year of CHA blends based on cost effective aromatic glycols, such as phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol. More specifically, Inolex’s Phenostat combines CHA, phenoxyethanol and happi.com

methylpropanediol.The recommended use level is 1%. The company notes that phenoxyethanol is a globally-approved preservative and remains consumer-acceptable in most markets. Methylpropanediol is a safe and widely used liquid diluent. Benzostat includes CHA, benzyl alcohol and glycerin. Benzyl alcohol is a widely used fragrance ingredient and approved preservative. Benzostat’s recommended use level is also 1%. Finally, new Aromastat contains CHA, phenylethyl alcohol and glycerin. Phenethyl alcohol is also a widely used fragrance ingredient and when incorporated into personal care products, it enables formulators to make preservative-free and paraben-free claims. Phenostat, Benzostat and Aromastat are all recommended for products such as cleansing body washes, moisturizing lotions and baby wipes. Phenostat is also recommended for use in sun care products. All three are approved for use in the European Union, Japan, Canada and Australia. Just as important, Inolex’s patent-pending, CHA-based systems enable formulators to make paraben-free, preservative-free, even biocide-free claims. “We can offer formulators a wide range of premium and economical blends based on CHA technology,” explained Winn. “CHA is a novel chelating agent, that together with glycols, provides guaranteed, broad-spectrum performance.”• September 2011

CPL Aromas

LOVE Is in the Air Consumers are loyal to home fragrance products… but first, marketers must capture their attention. Melissa Meisel • Associate Editor

C

ONSUMERS HAVE never been more sophisticated than they are now, and for that reason, they are demanding truly innovative home fragrance products. As a result, marketers are rolling out everything from high-end scent stories—think vanilla bean fused with lavender—to novel shapes, such as pillar candles that give a more upscale look to a room. And there’s a lot of competition out there in the home fragrance segment. According to data from SymphonyIRI Group, a Chicago-based market research firm, sales of home air fresheners were nearly flat at $849.5 million for the year ended July 10, 2011 at supermarkets, drug stores and mass merchandise outlets excluding Walmart. Glade Plug-Ins led the way at $125.8 million, followed by home air fresheners from Airwick, Glade, Febreze Air Effects and Febreze Noticeables. Candle sales fell 3% to $643.3 million for the year. Private label candles held the most interest with consumers, as sales weighed in at $105.2 million. Other leading brands include Glade, Betty Crocker, Reeds andVillage Candle. In the past decade, US air care sales have risen 6% a year to reach $3.3 billion, according to Karen Doskow, an industry manager with Kline & Company. Yankee Candle has surpassed SC Johnson to become the No. 1 player in the category, she added. Rounding out the top five players after SC Johnson are Bath & Body Works (Limited Brands), Reckitt Benckiser and

September 2011

Yankee Candle is the No. 1 player in the home fragrance category.

Procter & Gamble. The big fragrances for 2011 are pomegranate and lemonade, according to Kline data.

Festive Fall & Holiday Cheer The newest fragrances for the season capture the spirit and nostalgia of fall traditions and events. For example, at category leader Yankee Candle, new scents include Nature’s Paintbrush, a woodsy blend of citrus, sandalwood, amber and musk; Over the River, a nature-inspired scent that features fragrance notes of mandarin, soft oakmoss, lavender and sandalwood; Kitchen Spice, with hints of exotic spice notes including almond, nutmeg, cinnamon and cardamom; Pumpkin Buttercream, a creamy happi.com

combination of twoYankee Candle classics; and Vanilla Satin, a smooth blend of floral notes with rich vanilla. “Our vibrant new fall fragrance collection evokes wonderful seasonal memories such as time outdoors with family or baking favorite autumn treats,”said Hope Margala Klein, senior vice president, brand, design and innovation for TheYankee Candle Company, Inc., South Deerfield, MA. “Whether in our classic large jar or in a tumbler or votive, our fall fragrances are the ideal home décor accent and add a sense of warmth and comfort.” For fall,Yankee Candle is also introducing its new Perfect Pillar, which gives consumers new decorating possibilities. happi • 61

• Home Fragrance

“Making the According to Doreen transition inSmith, vice president doors after a hot, of design and develsteamy summer opment, Yankee with nearly nonCandle, the pillar is stop air condition“dressed in smooth ing is going to glass with a removable require welcoming label, and it combines and cozy scents that elegant pillar style and remind consumers how Yankee fragrance with the much they love their versatility to complement homes and enterany décor.”And, because taining those most it’s in glass, consumers dear within them,” don’t have to worry said Pam Helms, about dripping wax chief innovation making a mess. It is officer for Mrs. designed to fit stanMeyer’s Clean dard pillar holders Day and Caldrea and it works well in Minneapolis, with the small tumMN.“Clever food bler candle to create trends that comstriking arrangements bine sweet and sacreating endless, simple, vory will be transposed decorating options. for home ambience.” Also in mass, Mrs. Meyer’s The Caldrea Company Clean Day is rolling out lim- Candle Warmers, Etc. is rolling ited edition scented soy can- out a Halloween-themed Illumi- is set to release three new limited run scents inspired dles in October to add“a little nation Fragrance Warmer. by the traditions of the seawarmth to winter,”according to the company.The seasonal selections in- son. They include Pineapple Cardamom, clude Crisp Iowa Pine, Spicy Orange Clove, featuring warm spicy notes of cardamom, anise and blackpepper with a twist of citTart Cranberry and Spice Cake.

rus and dark tonka bean; Balsam Fir Plum, a cool blend of cypress, fir and cedar with a heart of sugared plum and violet along with subtle amber notes; and Crimson Pear Ginger, a holiday pomander of ripe fruits and treasured spices. These scents are featured in a linen & room spray and candle form. Slatkin & Co. is launching new fall home fragrance candles, diffusers and “scentportables,”too. The Fall Treats range showcases a delectable collection of sweet fall aromas, according to the company. Inspired by the season’s fresh-baked fragrances, each candle emits sweet, spicy scents and rich, creamy notes. The collection includes: Pumpkin Caramel Latte, S’mores, Maple Buttercream, Apple Crumble, Oatmeal Raisin Cookie, Salty Caramel and Spiced Cider. The brand is also releasing the Into The Woods Collection, a home fragrance story inspired by an autumn stroll through the forest. This line includes Woodland Berry, Marshmallow Fireside, Mountain Leaves, Fresh Balsam and Fireside. At Chesapeake Bay Candle, the consumer demand for simplicity in an increasingly complex and busy world is a top trend satiated by its new Fall 2011 collection, according to Mareike Finck, public relations and marketing manager for Chesapeake Bay Candle, Rockville, MD. The Chesa-

Febreze Sales Top $1 Billion •Febreze air fresheners have joined P&G’s billion-dollar brand club. Spokesman Lee Bansil said that Febreze revenue over the past 12 months hit $1 billion, giving P&G 24 brands that bring in revenue of $1 billion or more. Febreze officials have said sales held up during the recession as people spent more time at home, giving them more reason to care about how their homes smelled. P&G also expanded its air-freshener business through acquisition, acquiring Ambi Pur last year from Sara Lee Corp. for $470 million to increase its air care presence from 17 countries to 84. The latest rollout at Febreze is Set & Refresh, an air freshener that eliminates odors while releasing a fresh scent, according to the company. Set & Refresh lasts noticeably longer than cones because it slowly releases scented oils. Also new is the Febreze Wooden Wick Candle, said to bring the ambiance and sound of a crackling fire indoors. Available in a variety of Febreze Home Collections scents, this candle burns for up to 80 hours and is available in exotic scents such as Willow 62 • happi

Blossom and Green Tea Citrus. According to Mintel, Febreze continues to pop up in some less than likely places. From January through September 2010, the brand was featured in 37 new product releases. Beyond products such as candles or even laundry detergents that traditionally feature fragrance, Febreze is showing up in the less expected sponges, mops, dusters and dry cloths segment and beyond. Febreze recently launched its Breathe Happy campaign, proving to real people around the world that Febreze freshness can transform the air so people can breathe happy no matter what, according to the company. The revolutionary TV advertising surprises the senses of everyday people by proving Febreze’s high-quality odor elimination and freshness capabilities in extreme odor experiments. Following the advertising debut in July, Febreze will spread Breathe Happy across the country at events and on www.facebook.com/ febreze with live freshness experiments, user-generated rewards and free product giveaways.

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September 2011

• Home Fragrance

peake Bay Candle Home Collection is a chic but simple home décor statement. “With the economy still not in complete upswing, we wanted to design a collection that would transport consumers back to a time when joys were simple, great design meant minimalism, and personal spaces were less cluttered,”explained Finck.“Our goal was to create candles and home fragrance that would allow even the most urban environments to harvest the energy of the great outdoors.The result is a quietly luxurious home fragrance line featuring organic shapes and textures with vaguely familiar fragrances.” Fragrances include Midnight Air, Thyme Verbena, Vanilla Crème, Golden Amber, Cinnamon Chai and Teakwood Mahogany contained within minimalist chic vessels made of shaped ceramics in a décor friendly palette and complete with a matte finish, she told HAPPI. Also soon to be big in the marketplace are holiday-inspired products. According to Chris Barnes, president, Candle Warmers Etc., Woods Cross, UT, holiday-related scents figure to be bigger this year than last and everyone seems to have a different explanation as to why this will be. “The most popular explanation seems to be that an increase in popularity and sales in holiday items has picked up as retail sales have picked up,”he observed.“To that end, we are very excited about our new scents this fall including Christmas Day, Santa’s Cookies and Under the Mistletoe.” Among the company’s new Illumination Fragrance Warmers are ideal table toppers for holiday gatherings, including Fall Leaves, a ceramic pitcher with a gold tone leaf motif, and a Santa complete with peppermint scented wax melts. New Jack-olantern and Snowman Plug-in Fragrance also use scented oils and wax melts.

Exotic Choices For those who are searching for something a little more obscure than the traditional seasonal scents, home fragrance marketers are also rolling out a bountiful array of unique combinations in everything from candles to room mists. Why? Because apple 64 • happi

pie or peppermint aren’t for everyone, note industry experts. “We believe the combination of clean citrus and sweet scents like vanilla and citrus, as well as the combination of traditional florals like geranium and rose, will be the most popular scent stories because citrus and vanilla are warming and comforting, the perfect fall scent combination, and rose scents are perennial, classic favorites, noted Hugo Saavedra, founders of Hugo Naturals, Chatsworth, CA. His company is having success with these scent stories. In fact, zesty citrus and romantic floral variations are getting a lot of play these days in home fragrance. Personal care and household product marketer Thymes recently introduced Bergamot Vert, an invigorating collection that evokes the uplifting aroma of fresh bergamot after a summer downpour in the Mediterranean, according to the company. A bright, luminous scent, Bergamot Vert blends essential oils with luscious notes of sun-drenched citrus, crisp balsamic cypress, light jasmine and a whisper of musk in both a candle and home fragrance mist. Lisa Hoffman Beauty has two new elegant candles inspired by her fragrance collection. The Madagascar Orchid features a bouquet of sheer jasmine, ylang ylang dew, mimosa and pink peony framing the orchid; while another variation features an earthy scent of Japanese Agarwood accented with the zest of bergamot, the Zen-like ambiance of spiced ginger and the comfort of warm amber, according to the company. Another upscale fragrance line, Odin, also branched out into home fragrance recently with a line of candles at Barneys. The debut set of four unisex fragrances: 01 Sunda, 02 Owari, 03 Century and 04 Petrana evoked the exoticism of travel and a modern approach to time-honored fragrance traditions, according to the company. The clean, monochromatic lines that were synonymous with the packaging of Odin Fragrances have been applied to happi.com

the sleek translucent black glass that encases the hand poured slate colored wax. As the wick burns, the flame takes on an amber hue, drawing a direct relation to the amber liquid of the fragrances. The black metal lid of each candle mirrors the softtouch matte cap of Odin Fragrances and also functions as a stand for the candles when in use. Each candle is unique in its complex structures and distinguished notes, according to the company. For example, 03 Century captivates the senses with silver birch, cypress and forest mint. The liquid myrrh ingredient is combined with vetiver, patchouli and moss for a transparent woodsy scent, according to the company. The 04 Petrana candle reveals a dark complexion from the foundation of wild orris root and green violet leaf absolute. Herbaceous coriander, spicy pink pepper and deep purple cassis float coalesce into a luminous floral.

Smells Like Growth Following a period of decline triggered by the economic recession, the global market for air fresheners is growing, according to a report available on companiesandmarket.com. Its“Air Freshener: A Global Strategic Business” report predicts that the market is expected to reach $8.3 billion by 2015, with growth driven by consumer desire to use decorative fragrance products such as candles as well as health

Chesapeake Bay Candle’s latest scent innovations include Cinnamon Chai.

September 2011

• Home Fragrance

and mood boosting aromatherapy fragrances within the home. The most popular and fastest growing division is sprays and aerosols, followed by electric plug-in air fresheners, said the report. Doskow of Kline anticipates that the air care category will post 2-3% growth in the

future, led by direct sales and other new channels of distribution. But still, mass-market shoppers are propelling the home fragrance marketplace with their seasonal purchases. “We are seeing a very big demand for wax cubes or melt warming products,”said

Bergamot Vert is a new citrus-scented aromatic candle from Thymes.

Barnes of Candle Warmers.“Our Illumination Fragrance Warmers and Candle Warmer and Dish products are posting triple-digit growth over last year. Retailers, both independent gift stores and large chain retailers, are aggressively expanding their product offering or introducing these types of products for fall.” To fill this increased demand, Candle Warmers Etc. is introducing seven new Illumination Fragrance Warmers and five new Plug-In Fragrance Warmers this year along with four new Jaime Clair Wax Melt scents. In terms of fragrance trends, marketers continue to see the “clarity/transparency trend”still going strong. According to Finck of Chesapeake Bay Candle,“Our world is a complex place and consumers’ lives are getting busier and busier. They look to counterbalance these tendencies and home fragrance has to respond to that with clean scents that are understandable and not overpowering. The need for simplicity will also be addressed through design, packaging, colors and textures.” Smith at Yankee Candle agreed that a back-to-basics approach coupled with innovation is the key to moving the home fragrance category forward. She said,“Simple, easy to use products she [the consumer] can trust are the things she is looking for and that is what we at Yankee Candle aim to deliver. Ways to deliver her fragrance experience more quickly, as well as delivering fragrances in new and different ways is something we see as a trend for the future.”• 66 • happi

happi.com

September 2011

WORKHORSE Ingredients Developed markets may be teetering on recession, but demand for surfactants remains steady. In fact, demand is downright buoyant in countries such as Brazil, Russia, India, China and the rest of Southeast Asia. Tom Branna • Editorial Director

T

ugly out there, again. In the first half of 2011, raw material costs surged, forcing household and personal product marketers to sharpen their pencils and recalculate just how much it will cost to produce all those detergents and shampoos. In the second quarter, Unilever raised its prices sharply to offset higher commodity costs. More recently, in August, there were growing signs that the US economy might be sliding toward recession. That spooked markets and sent consumer confidence levels tumbling. Of course, industry experts are quick to point out that most categories in the household and personal care space are recession-resistant. “The surfactant component of the home and personal care industry has been relatively inelastic under varied economic conditions,” observed Mark Miller, business director, home and personal care, BASF.“For instance, while certain segments suffered in 2008, this was not the case for surfactants.” Stewart Warburton, global marketing director, home and personal care, Rhodia Novecare, agreed. “The surfactant market has remained resilient throughout these difficult times,” he explained.“Some consumers may have traded down to lower price point brands, while others may have started buying their cleansing products through different channels; they have not reduced their level of personal or household hygiene.” HINGS ARE GETTING

September 2011

Still, it took several personal care categories years to reclaim 2008 levels. And when budgets get tight, shoppers opt for private label products or third-tier brands that may contain fewer ingredients and more water. That trend led to a price war within the laundry detergent market. “[It] has been a challenging year for surfactants as oleo chemical feedstock rose to unprecedented highs during the first two quarters of the year,”said Phil Matena, vice president, sales and business development, active chemicals, Americas, at Innospec. “Q3 has seen an encouraging decline in these feedstocks, however softening of demand will slow the flow of higher cost product through the supply chain.” According to Matena, customers are coming to Innospec requesting reformulation assistance to address the rise in raw material costs. Their goal—take cost out while maintaining performance. “We are seeing successes in these collaborations,” he insisted. Last year, AkzoNobel’s surfactant business recorded good results with continuing strong performance in home and personal care markets joined by a powerful recovery in other applications in its portfolio, such as agrochemicals and mining. This year, growth has moderated, but demand remains good in most markets, with some softening in consumer markets. “We have not seen a slowdown in surfactant sales. Summer months are generhappi.com

Detergent prices took a hit last year as consumers shopped for value brands.

ally strong with consumers doing more laundry and hotel and restaurant vacation travel,” said Craig Lundell, team leadersupplier relations, Sea-Land. “There has been supply disruptions due to raw material shortages such as the force majeure on Akypo products. We have seen a flattening of sales, but we are still up over 2010. Consumers are looking to save money and so far the manufacturers have worked hard to keep their market shares.”

Growth Markets Market leaders such as Procter & Gamble, Unilever and L’Oréal are all focused on emerging markets these days, especially those in Latin America and Asia, and the vast number of consumers who are growhappi • 69

• Surfactants Market

ing more eager for western-style personal cleansers and household cleaners. Neil Burns, of Neil A Burns LLC, Freehold, NJ, noted that the entire emerging market category is a growing one for surfactants, especially the much-touted BRIC countries (Brazil, Russia, India and China). In addition, Southeast Asian countries like Malaysia, Indonesian and the Philippines are expanding rapidly. In these markets, consumer products such as detergents, shampoos and dishwash are still increasing in consumer penetration (as increasing percentages of these populations use such products on a daily basis), said Burns.“For these reasons, we continue to see substantial investment in surfactant and oleochemical feedstock production in these countries.” Back in the US, RITA is experiencing an upsurge in the number of smaller hair care marketing companies with ideas and concepts, looking for a development partner to help them bring their products to market. “We can not only help formulate these products, but we’re also helping our customers through the rest of the testing and scale up,” explained Dan Beio, VP-R&D, RITA.“We’ve become, in many instances, their outsourced R&D. There are many of these marketing groups out there, the hard part is finding and connecting with them. Once we’ve had that initial meeting and can show the value we add, it’s a totally transparent relationship.” In fact, Beio maintains that the company’s surfactant sales are as strong as ever. In particular, there’s growing demand for Ritafactant blends that do not contain any sulfated surfactants.These patented blends of lactylates, glucosides, sarcosinates and betaines are custom-formulated and designed to mimic the foam performance of the sulfated surfactants for flash and foam stability, explained Beio. “Many customers are using them as their entire surfactant phase, limiting the number and types of ingredients they have to order,”he said. As a result, instead of sourcing, ordering, receiving and running quality assurance checks on four or five surfactant ingredients, 70 • happi

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Green, Greener, Greenest Rhodia offers a broad range of products designed to meet the increasing sustainability needs of the home and personal care market, according to Warburton. Rhodia’s R&D projects are focused on developing more sustainable processes and products without compromising on performance. “In alignment with our sustainability strategy, we have recently developed 100% bio-based nonionic surfactants for application in laundry and household products,”he said.“Our R&D program also focuses on developing a broad range of formulations that are effective at reduced chemical loading.” Consumers in the personal care market still demand mild products that give good skin feel and copious lather, noted Art Pavlidis, business manager, Hamposyls and APIs, Chattem Chemicals. “The Hamposyls deliver those properties and more. We have enjoyed good growth as a result of the need to provide mild, nontoxic and readily biodegradable surfactants.” With more marketers seeking a more sustainable corporate profile, they’re turning to their suppliers for solutions. Chattem Chemicals is focusing on applications where there is concern about the happi.com

biodegradability of the raw materials. According to Pavlidis, Hamposyl surfactants are readily biodegradable so they are becoming attractive for those applications. Another aspect of sustainability is concentration. According to Miller of BASF, an ongoing trend in the home, personal care and I&I markets is the growing demand for more concentrated solutions that help reduce environmental impacts while maintaining effectiveness. “There is also a continued need and market for concentrated products that help reduce consumption as well as a continued drive for consumer convenience,” he said. “BASF’s newly formed home and personal care team will now have a broad product offering combined with research and development expertise that will allow us to initiate joint development projects with our customers to meet market demands.” With the rise in consumer awareness for safe and environmentally-friendly formulations, the need for natural surfactants is growing, noted Ellen Delisle, technical sales manager, Bio-Botanica, adding that surfactant companies are looking at ways to supply consumer demand with many of them expanding into Asia. “We offer BioSaponins, the natural surface active agent. It is a combination of four saponins: wild yam root, yucca root, sarsaparilla root and quillaja root,” she said. “Saponins are naturally-occurring, high molecular weight glucosides. If you want to remove harmful chemicals from your personal care products, go the natural route.” All Emery Oleochemical products are made from natural oils and fats derived from renewable raw materials such as coconuts, oil palms, sunflower seeds and tallow. The product line is said to have wide-ranging appeal, especially for those seeking to drive the sustainability and renewable agenda. According to Dr. Kongkrapan Intarajang, group CEO of Emery Oleochemicals, the company’s strong foundation in oleo basics enables it to provide natural based products that meet special customer specifications and requirements for items such as soap bars, fragrances and cosmetics through its September 2011

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fatty acid and fatty alcohol range. “Globally recognized names such as Edenor and Emery are brands much sought after for their natural, high quality and good bio-degradable properties,”explained Intarajang. “In addition, our approach to innovation, which draws its strength from industry recognitions; such as being remembered as developers of the highest grade (99.8%) of natural based glycerin at that time, is fundamental to our long-term success.” Stepan Company entered into a joint developmental agreement with Elevance Renewable Sciences, Inc. to evaluate and commercialize novel surfactants, antimicrobials and polyurethane polyols based on Elevance’s specialty feedstocks, including 9-decenoic ester and C18 di-basic ester. They have a variety of applications for the consumer, institutional, industrial and broader surfactant marketplace. Both companies agree the move is an opportunity to provide an expanded product portfolio based on biorenewable feedstocks. Developing new biorenewable technologies with performance benefits is consistent with Stepan’s customer’s growth initiatives and their sustainability goals. Sustainability plays a key role in product development at many other companies, including AkzoNobel. “In the fabric and cleaning area, we see increased emphasis on not only environmentally friendly products but also products which are produced from sustainable resources as consumers worldwide become increasingly aware of their environmental footprint,”explained Alfred Wong, global marketing and development manager, fabric and cleaning, AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry. According to Burns, work is underway to add a so-called“third leg”to the surfactant supply chain. The existing two legs are petrochemical and oleochemical—but both legs have sustainability issues. A solution to these sustainability problems, he said, is in the form of new technology to enable the production of surfactant feedstocks from sources such as sugar cane, corn, lignocellulose and beets. These are being commer72 • happi

cialized by relatively new companies such as Solazyme and Elevance, said Burns.

A Quiet Year for Regulations With so many suppliers taking the lead on issues such as sustainability, most agree that it has been a relatively quiet year for regulations. Burns noted that REACH has had the biggest impact on surfactant producers in the recent past. For example, AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry successfully submitted all 2010 REACH registrations, the first registration phase of the new European Union chemical legislation. A total of 51 dossiers were submitted to the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) before the November 30, 2010 deadline. “From our vantage point, REACH has had an impact on all companies that wish to do business with or in Europe,”explained Andy Girdharry, global personal care.“This has required a vast amount of regulatory input to support existing products made today and creates a hurdle rate for new products—a minimum return required— when they are placed onto the market.” Wong pointed out that nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs) are being phased out globally, especially in cleaning applications. In North America, the phase-out, which has already begun, is being coordinated with the US Environmental Protection Agency’s Design for Environment (DfE) Safer Detergent Stewardship Initiative (SDSI), and would end the use of NPEs in industrial laundry detergents by 2013 for liquids and 2014 for powders. “The AkzoNobel Fabric and Cleaning team has designed Berol 609 to replace specific APEOs in specific cleaning applications,” he explained.“Berol 609 is a green surfactant that is DfE-registered and continues to gain traction in the marketplace.” The ban on phosphates in the US will continue to drive new solutions for the automatic dishwash market, according to Miller, who pointed out that BASF’s broad portfolio for home care and I&I includes special additives, such as rinse aid surfactants, complexing agents and polymers that can be used as alternatives to phosphates happi.com

in automatic dishwashing formulations, while maintaining high performance. At the same time, BASF remains focused on methanesulfonic acid, which is phosphoric acid replacement in detergent formulations because of the high solubility of its salts and relatively low corrosivity. MSA is easy to handle, non-oxidizing, readily biodegradable and chloride-free, according to Miller. “The California solvent legislation will drive formulators to look for new solutions that reduce VOC levels—this can include a shift toward surfactants,”he told HAPPI.“At BASF, we offer naturally derived surfactants such as APG, a mild, biodegradable surfactant that plays an important role in cosmetic and body care formulations.”

Recent Moves While global economies ebb and flow and regulators debate new action, surfactant suppliers aren’t standing still. In June, Rhodia and SIBUR signed a letter of intent to create a joint venture in specialty surfactants. This strategic alliance is focused on creating a leader in the CIS market where specialty surfactants are used particularly in home and personal care, as well as in the oil and gas industries, where the surfactants sector is growing more than 6% a year, according to Rhodia. SIBUR, the leading petrochemical company in Russia, will contribute its raw materials, production and logistics capabilities. The new 50:50 joint venture will be located in Russia at Dzerzhinsk, near SIBUR’s petrochemicals operations, 400km east of Moscow and will begin operating in 2013. “This strategic partnership is a key step in our development in the dynamic surfactants market in the CIS and Eastern Europe,” commented Christophe Clemente, VP-Europe, Rhodia Novecare. “This alliance will reinforce our leading position worldwide in specialty surfactants and is fully aligned with our growth strategy. It demonstrates our commitment to become the preferred partner of our customers as they expand in fast-growing countries,” added Emmanuel Butstraen, president, Rhodia Novecare. September 2011

• Surfactants Market

Innospec Expands its Reach Mildness is a key component of baby shampoos.

Earlier this year, Rhodia acquired a guarderivatives production unit in Zhangjiagang, China. It complements Rhodia’s existing global guar-derivatives manufacturing footprint with production units located in the US, France and India. This acquisition enables Rhodia to meet the fast-growing demand for guar–based products in Asia, particularly in personal care. And last year, Rhodia acquired Feixiang Chemicals. Feixiang, China’s leading producer of amines and surfactants, strengthens Rhodia’s leadership position in surfactants, and enhanced its footprint in the world’s fastest growing region. Feixiang will contribute its expertise in amine and cationic surfactants technologies and will extend Rhodia’s portfolio in amphoteric and cationic surfactants for the home and personal care and industrial cleaning markets. Lubrizol acquired the Performance Products Group from Nalco in January, adding the market-leading brands Merquat and Sensomer CI-50 conditioning polymers to its existing cassia-derived conditioning polymers. “Through this acquisition, Lubrizol has gained expertise in conditioning and delivery of actives to the hair and skin to complement our already market-leading position in rheology and appearance modification in surfactant cleansing systems,” explained Timothy Roach, strategic mar74 • happi

keting manager, cleansing applications, Lubrizol Advanced Materials. RITA is always on the look out for new partners and technologies, according to Beio, who noted that plant expansions were recently completed at its Mexican and Crystal Lake, IL facilities. “We have also partnered with new companies worldwide to take advantage of positions on raw feedstock ingredients,” said Beio.“If we can’t make it, we’ll find someone who can and put the necessary pieces in place to ensure quality and consistency our customers expect from RITA.” RITA also expanded its Ritafactant blends. These surfactant combinations with RITA’s acyl lactylates are patented, giving the company the flexibility to custom blend for its customers, and design molecules that perform exactly as they would like. Emery Oleochemicals recently formed joint ventures with ERCA Group (Europe) and AK Chemtech (Korea) to advance in the household and personal care sectors. “In our drive to broaden our portfolio, customers can expect us to continue to maintain our focus on our core commodity chemical business, whilst leveraging our competitive advantage—in size, scale, global footprint and technology—to move toward becoming a recognized specialty chemical player,”explained Intarajang. happi.com

Innospec continues to expand its commercial presence in Asia, Latin America and Europe to enhance its intimacy with regional and global customers. In January, the company commissioned a new reactor at its site in North Carolina to stay ahead of the growing demand for Iselux, its new sulfatefree surfactant. Elsewhere, Innospec is actively pursuing acquisition opportunities to enhance its portfolio and global position in personal care, according to Matena. During the past year, the surfactants group of Stepan Company made investments to diversify its product line and expand its franchise geographically. With its large, diverse and growing consumer, agricultural and oil field markets, Brazil provides a substantial growth market. Stepan has added neutralization capacity to its large sulfation unit in Vespasiano, Brazil to better serve this large, growing market. A key part of Stepan’s strategy is to build its surfactant franchise in Asia. More than a year ago, Stepan acquired manufacturing assets of Peter Cremer’s 100,000 ton-per-year methyl ester plant located in Singapore. It enables Stepan to provide global customers with methyl esters and value-added derivatives, a core building block of its specialty surfactant business. Production will begin in the second quarter 2012. Stepan also increased ownership in its JV, Stepan Philippines Inc. (SPI). SPI operates a surfactant manufacturing plant producing laundry and cleaning products, fabric softeners and functional surfactants for the Philippines and other Asian markets. AkzoNobel has made two key acquisitions. To further strengthen its leadership position in specialty surfactants while enhancing its manufacturing footprint in Asia, the company acquired Boxing Oleochemicals, which is said to be the leading supplier of nitrile amines and derivatives in China and throughout Asia. Boxing’s activities will be integrated into AkzoNobel’s Surface Chemistry business. The deal is expected to be finalized in the fourth quarter. Two months ago, AkzoNobel acquired from Integrated Botanical Technologies (IBT) its patented Zeta Fraction technology, which September 2011

Surfactants Market

is transforming how plant-based chemistry is used.The process developed by IBT makes it possible to harvest and separate constituent parts of a living cell from any plant or marine source without any solvents. But perhaps the biggest move to affect the industry was BASF’s December acquisition of Cognis. According to Miller, the integration of Cognis is proceeding successfully and the BASF team is ready to provide solutions to the home and personal care market. “The combined portfolio and collective expertise from BASF and Cognis enables us to supply the most comprehensive product portfolio, formulation concepts, new innovations, technical and research capabilities, and sustainable solutions,”he said.“Better understanding of consumer needs, and more opportunities for innovation will enhance our position in personal care ingredients and strengthen our leading position in value added products for home care.” Neil A Burns LLC just entered into a long-term agreement with Reed Business Information Ltd of the UK to produce conferences and training courses relating to surfactants globally. The venture’s first event was a surfactant conference in May in New York City.The ICIS Asian Surfactant Conference to be held November 10-11 at the Intercontinental Hotel in Singapore will be the first as part of this formal agreement. “This conference series fills a gap for senior executives in the business areas of surfactant companies to be able to get a focused snapshot of what is happening commercially in the industry,”explained Burns.

New Launches As companies expand their operations they are, of course, expanding their product lines too. Stepan introduced Bio-Soft GSB-9, a nonionic blend for those looking at alkylphenol ethoxylate replacement or for those interested in a versatile nonionic surfactant for use in multiple hard surface cleaning applications. Bio-Soft GSB-9 has a quick dissolution time and no gel phase when added to cold water (40°F). For the personal care industry, AkzoNobel launched four rheology modifiers, which also act as foam boosters, this year under its September 2011

new Structure Cel trade name. The new products, ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose (EHEC), methyl ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose (MEHEC) and hydrophobically modified ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose (HM-EHEC) derivatives, are natural-based polymers with high surface activity, wide molecular-weight range and various degrees of ethoxylation, alkylation, and surface treatments, according to Girdharry. “Those properties contribute to enhanced foam characteristics for rinse-off applications such as shampoos, body washes and facial cleansers,”he explained.“In addition, they build viscosity, exhibit shear thinning rheology, improve elasticity, contribute to formula stabilization and provide salt tolerance—all attributes that are desirable for personal care applications, including shampoos, body washes, conditioners and hair styling formulations.” In the home care sector, Wong pointed to several launches which address market needs and the growing emphasis on being both environmentally friendly and sustainable. For example, Alcoguard H 5240 is a more sustainable water-soluble polymer for detergents. It uses hybrid biopolymer technology that combines the benefits of both synthetic and natural polymer components to provide effective performance and an improved environmental profile. Most recently, Alcoguard H 5240 was granted Design for Environment (DfE) certification by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Another novel product is Berol HD, a concentrated liquid surfactant product that provides an environmentally friendly cleaning alternative to heavy-duty degreasers containing high-VOC petrochemical solvents, according to AkzoNobel. Readily biodegradable, Berol HD mixes easily with builders and water to form efficient, aqueous degreasing formulations for heavy-duty, low-VOC cleaning performance. Two new launches at BASF include Dehypon Wet, an optimized surfactant that is said to provide quick and easy cleaning due to its excellent wetting behavior resulting in a fast action feature. Cleaners requiring this fast action together with low foam behavior such as automatic cleaners, floor cleaners happi.com

•

and cleaning wipes are the target application areas for Dehypon Wet. Plantacare 818 UP is a sugar surfactant for personal care applications. Raw materials for the Plantacare 818 UP are fatty alcohols from coconut or palm kernel oil and glucose of corn. Plantacare 818 UP shows excellent performance in foaming, cleaning and mildness, which makes it ideal for mild shampoo, bath, and shower gels applications. During the past 18 months, Lubrizol launched three new materials. Chembetaine ACB is a naturally-derived, bio-based amphoteric surfactant that builds excellent viscosity and boosts foam in hard or soft water. It reduces irritation when formulated with anionic surfactants, and is ethylene oxide and formaldehyde free. A year ago, Lubrizol launched Carbopol Aqua SF-2 polymer, a rheology modifier that delivers exceptional clarity, elegant flow properties, and suspension of insoluble ingredients in surfactant systems formulated at pH below 6. It is said to be ideal for use in cleansing systems that incorporate foodgrade preservative systems. Most recently, in June, Lubrizol launched Glucamate VLT thickener, a naturally-derived associative thickener that delivers enhanced mildness and exceptional clarity in surfactant cleansing systems. Due to its exceptional mildness and ability to mitigate irritation of common surfactants, Glucamate VLT thickener is ideal for use in products for babies, children and the elderly, according to Lubrizol. Sea-Land has introduced Tomamine Amphoteric 12, environmentally-friendly hydrotropes with multi-functionality. According to Lundell, use levels are only 25% as much as traditional hydrotropes, yet they provide added detergency, are already DfEapproved and cost less than current hydrotroping surfactants. By introducing new products, offering total solutions and expanding their footprints, surfactant suppliers are meeting the needs of their customers around the world.

For a list of new products from surfactant suppliers, be sure to visit Happi.com.• happi • 75

Playing DEFENSE When it comes to daily skin care products, UV protection has become a must-have component. Christine Esposito • Associate Editor

F

OR MANY DERMATOLOGISTS, the ABCs of a great skin care regimen start with UV—UV protection, that is. In fact, when it comes to keeping a youthful glow, experts insist the best offense is a good defense—and that means keeping the sun’s harmful rays at bay, even when there’s no beach in sight. “Adding SPF to a daily skin care regimen is a must. Just daily exposure to UVB and UVA rays on the way to the office or running errands, over time, can provide sufficient cumulative damage to the skin to result in the formation of key signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles,”said Helen Knaggs, Ph.D., vice president of global R&D for Nu Skin personal care. “In fact, this low level, cumulative exposure can be far more damaging to the skin than spending time at the beach.” Dr. Sonia Badreshia-Bansal, a clinical instructor at the University of California, San Francisco who has a private dermatology practice in Danville, CA, agrees. “It is vital to practice daily sun protection, rain or shine, 365 days a year,”she told HAPPI.“Sun protective products with broad spectrum sunscreen offer good protection. A tip I have is to layer it with other sun protection products such as makeup or dual acting moisturizer and sunscreen.” Skin experts want consumers to take seasonality out of their sun protection routines. Proper protection shouldn’t be shelved with the swimsuits during colder months.

September 2011

“SPF is extremely important on a yearround basis. Even in the depths of winter, we must protect our skin from the sun’s damaging rays. This is our best defense against aging,” added Anthony Vesnaver, marketing manager, Sarah McNamara’s Miracle Skin Transformer, NewYork. Docs have been pushing the sun protection message for years, and it appears that consumers are finally getting the message—one that was first unveiled decades ago. Back then, the talk about sun protection centered on traditional sunscreen products used during prolonged sun exposure; the concept of promoting SPF in daily skin care developed more slowly. Johnson & Johnson, for example, rolled out Neutrogena Original Moisture, SPF 5 in 1983. happi.com

Nowadays, it is much more commonplace to see a SPF factor on a pack, whether it is a moisturizer, an anti-aging lotion or even a liquid foundation. According to Mintel’s Global New Products Database (GNPD), the number of face/neck care skin care product launches in the US with a“functional-UV protection” claim rose from 186 in 2009 to 200 in 2010. So far this year, the category appears to be on a similar pace.Through July 26, 154 have been rolled out, according to Mintel. The number of body skin care products with a UV claim has also been ticking upward, rising from 25 in 2009 to 34 in 2010—although through July 26 of this year, just three products were tracked by the market research firm. happi • 77

• UV Protection in Skin Care Products

Not Your Mother’s Sun Protection

residue on the skin, or feels heavy in texture,” noted Vesnaver. “New formulations in And while consumers are UV protection offer easier apsavvier about the damage the plication and textures to prodsun’s rays can inflict, the overucts. Without these innovations all proliferation of daily skin in engineering, we wouldn’t be care SKUs with SPF ratings can able to get the final payoff in the also be traced back to improved naturally derived silicone base aesthetics. That telltale “white which Miracle Skin Transformer nose”lifeguard look is a thing of Body SPF20 provides,” he said the past, according to experts in about his company’s latest offerthe field. ing. Miracle Skin Transformer Body “A decade ago it was hard to SPF20 is said to deliver full get a 15 into a product; it was a UVA/UVB protection in a formulation chemical engineering problem,”said that also boasts caffeine encapsulated New York-based dermatologist Dr. microspheres, blue-green algae, jojoba Darrel Rigel, clinical professor of deroil and hyaluronic acids, according to matology at New York University the company, which was Medical Center and lead author of “Cancer of the La Roche-Posay’s Redermic [+] UV recently acquired by AtSkin,” a well-known text- Intensive Daily Anti-Wrinkle Firming lantic Coast Media Group, book on the subject. Fill-In Care with SPF 25 is a wrinkle- maker of Hydraxatone. Constant messaging “UV protection no filling treatment with broad-specabout its importance and longer leaves a white trum sun protection.

Antioxidants and Sunscreens • At the American Academy of Dermatology’s Summer Academy Meeting 2011 held in New York in early August, dermatologist Steven Q. Wang, MD, director of dermatologic surgery and dermatology at Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center in Basking Ridge, NJ, presented results from a study on sunscreens and antioxidants. The study, published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, found that in addition to protecting the skin from UV exposure that causes skin cancer, current broad-spectrum sunscreen products offer protection from free radicals—molecules that cause skin damage and aging—and the majority of the protection is from UV filters rather than antioxidants. Environmental exposure such as UV radiation, pollution and smoking all can contribute to the development of free radicals in the body, which can cause skin damage and aging. In young, healthy skin, the body uses a sophisticated defense system to absorb free radicals; whereas, in older individuals this defense system can be depleted. When the body’s own defense isn’t working as it should, free radicals build up from UV exposure and other environmental sources, and can lead to skin damage and wrinkles. The research found that a product with high UVA protection blocks or absorbs more harmful radiation from the UVA spectrum and reduces the total amount of free radicals generated in the skin, noted Wang. Exposure to UVA rays and UVB rays can lead to the development of skin cancer. This is why choosing a broad-spectrum sunscreen that protects the skin from both types of rays is so important. 78 • happi

much improved aesthetics have elevated an SPF rating to a must-have component in daily skin care. Many of today’s formulations offer higher levels of protection than in years past—15s and 30s are commonplace in moisturizers and makeup these days—and accompanying ingredients provide a powerful one-two punch against the visible signs of aging. For example, in a clinical trial of Aveeno Smart Essentials Daily Nourishing Moisturizer with SPF 30, 100% of subjects showed an improvement in the look of their stressed skin with a reduction in roughness and blotchiness in just two weeks, according to the Johnson & Johnson brand. The SKU, which rolled out earlier this year, also protects against environmental stressors as well. Better skin coupled with sun protection is also on tap at naturals marketer Jason. The company touts Jason C-Effects Pure Natural Anti-Wrinkle Day Lotion SPF 30 Sunscreen. It is billed as a new anti-wrinkle

Wang added that the FDA new sunscreen rules would make it easier for consumers to make informed decisions about choosing sunscreens with UVA and UVB protection. According to Wang, sunscreens that filter UV rays are providing passive protection by absorbing or reflecting harmful UV rays from the skin. By adding antioxidants to sunscreens, Wang believes that these combination sunscreens could offer a second, active level of protection. While not necessary for UV protection, the antioxidants could boost the body’s natural antioxidant reserve and stop any free radicals generated from UV that pass through the filters. “Adding antioxidants to sunscreen is an innovative approach that could represent the next generation of sunscreens, which would not only filter UV radiation, but also offer other tangible skin health benefits,” said Wang in a statement. “Theoretically, supplementing sunscreens with antioxidants could boost the body’s natural defense against the formation of UVA-induced free radicals; therefore serving as a second layer of protection against UV radiation that passes through the first layer of UV protection.” Due to the unstable nature of antioxidants when added to sunscreens and that there is no single test to sufficiently measure their concentrations, Wang stressed that it was a challenging task to determine the final concentration of antioxidants in each product and differentiate their free radical protection. “This is an exciting area of research in sunscreens. However, we believe further study is needed to gauge the benefits of incorporating antioxidants in sunscreens,” he explained. More info: www.aad.org

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September 2011

Z-COTE® HP1 ■ ■ ■ ■

Broad-spectrum sun protection Photo-stable UV filter Meets new FDA critical wavelength requirement of 370 nm Suitable for a wide variety of personal care applications

For more information, visit us at www.personal-care.basf.com.

• UV Protection in Skin Care Products

Daily Anti-Wrinkle Firmmoisture lotion and one ing Fill-In Care with SPF of the first in the natural 25 features Neurosensine, a channel to feature SPF 30 calming ingredient that infor daily use. A multi-anhibits neuro mediator protioxidant complex features duction in nerve endings to Ester-C, vitamin C and neutralize inflammation; 5% thioctic acid to help minipure and stable vitamin C to mize the effects of sun, boost collagen; Madecassostress and time, while reside, which fills in deep wrinplenishing critical moisture kles by regenerating dermal levels. fibers; and a patented combiMore recently, La Rochenation of octocrylene with Posay rolled out Redermic [+] avobenzone which provides UV Intensive Daily Antiphotostable broad spectrum Wrinkle Firming Fill-In Care protection. Octisalate provides with SPF 25, billed as the first additional UVB protection. wrinkle-filling treatment with “The novelty of the patent broad-spectrum sun protecinvolves the association of oction to combat the effects of “micro-inflammatory” aging. Miracle Skin Transformer tocrylene and avobenzone in Building on the success of Re- Body SPF20 provides specific ratios and allows for the photo-stabilization of dermic [+], company officials UVA/UVB protection. avobenzone,” Foltis told say this latest product offers a three-pronged approach to anti-aging via HAPPI.“During the development phase, our ingredients to fight the signs of aging, the chemists are acutely aware of aesthetics of micro-inflammatory stress that causes it the final formula. Along the way, many and UV exposure—a main trigger of that prototypes are made and tested to optistress. mize the final texture and aesthetic propAccording to Peter Foltis, director, erties.” L’Oréal USA, scientific affairs-skin care, the From Institut’ DERMed comes Brightmicro-inflammatory stress model of aging ening Moisturizer SPF28, billed as a hydrais based on the observation that all factors tor that provides broad spectrum UVA and which contribute to the acceleration of the UVB protection to prevent discoloration aging process have one thing in common: and premature aging. the capacity to trigger synthesis of Intercel“Octinoxate and oxybenzone are highly lular Adhesion Molecules-1 (ICAM-1) by efficient ultraviolet shields that the FDA has the endothelial cells. Each phenomenon qualified as Category I sunscreens. These that causes synthesis of ICAM-1 can be compounds primarily offer protection considered to be a factor of skin aging. The against UVB waves. Researchers have upregulation of ICAM-1 to a variety of found that octinoxate, also known as octyl stimuli starts an intricate cascade of biolog- methoxycinnamate, protects the skin ical effects at the cellular level causing an against not only sunburn but also UV lightinflammatory response,“thus ICAM-1 is a induced DNA alterations,” said Lyn Ross, sensitive biomarker for inflammation,” founder and CEO of Institut’DERMed. Foltis said. For Ross, the ingredients’aesthetics and “We have observed that UV light upreg- performance are key attributes in her forulates the production of ICAM-1. UV in- mulation. duced‘micro-inflammatory’reactions might “These widely used sun filters are nonalso participate in skin aging, particularly irritating and absorb quickly and easily into by generating oxygen reactive species,” he the skin whereas zinc oxide can be white, continued. thick and not cosmetically elegant to wear Specifically, Redermic[+] UV Intensive during the day under makeup,” she said, 80 • happi

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adding that while zinc and TiO2 also demonstrate a DNA-protective effect,“scientists compared the efficacy of several sunscreen agents and found that preparations containing oxybenzone yielded the highest SPF values. Thus, octinoxate and oxybenzone may help protect against UVlight induced DNA changes and boost the SPF of sunscreen products.” Earlier this year, MD Moms rolled out Baby Silk Daily UV Shield, an SPF 30+ moisturizing lotion that provides UVB/UVA protection in a hypoallergenic and fragrance- and paraben-free formulation designed for mother and baby. It harnesses the protective attributes of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, which are recommended by the American Academy of Pediatrics as safest for young infants, even under six months of age, according to the company. At the American Academy of Dermatology’s recent Summer Meeting in NewYork City, MD Moms founder Dr. JJ Levenstein pointed out other benefits which are critical to skin care, such as its ability to nourish via antioxidant vitamins E and B5, grapeseed oil and avocado oil.

UV Protection and Acne Care UV protection should be a critical component in the skin care regimens of young and old alike, but there are sensitive populations with specific needs who often have a harder time incorporating products into their routine. For instance, many acne suffers eschew daily sun protection. “UV is often forgotten by acne sufferers Institut’ DERMed’s Brightening Moisturizer SPF28 hydrates and provides broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection.

September 2011

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• UV Protection in Skin Care Products

because they don’t understand the importance of sunscreen while treating acne with different acne medicines. When using an acne medicine, the skin may become sensitive to the sun,”noted Kimber Maderazzo, SVP, global product development product research and formula development, Proactiv. The sun, she said, can cause and may exacerbate, unsightly discolorations such as dark spots, freckles, age spots and other skin discolorations—and sunscreens help prevent new ones from forming. The Guthy-Renker brand is tackling the acne care/sun protection issue with new Proactiv Acne & Dark Spot Repair system, which is designed to help clear skin and gradually fade post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. The protocol features in the brand’s well-known three-step system (cleanser, toner and treatment), plus a spot corrector with 2% hydroquinone and Proactiv Daily Protection Plus Sunscreen

SPF 30, which is specifically designed for acne prone skin. Researchers at P&G are on a similar quest to answer the sun protection needs of acne sufferers. “UV protection is an often overlooked aspect of daily skin care for many women— no matter the skin type or condition. This is especially true for women with acneprone skin as they often times refer to their skin as sensitive skin,” said P&G Beauty senior scientist Rolanda Johnson. According to Johnson, for those with acne-prone skin, there is often a tendency to use fewer facial products as well as products that are oil free or oil controlling. “Since some SPF moisturizers can feel heavy and oily on skin, depending on the UV active ingredient and the product’s formulation, those with acne may sometimes shy away from UV protection,”she said. The company’s new acne-specific solu-

tions come via the new Olay Pro-X Clear acne range, which rolled out in July. The roster includes Olay Professional Pro-X Clear SPF 15 Moisturizer, a non-comedogenic, oil-free moisturizer that helps protect against UVA/UVB, as well as Olay Professional Pro-X Clear Oil-Control/OilBalancing SPF 15 Moisturizer. According to Johnson, the SPF moisturizers not only help protect against UVA/ UVB rays that can damage skin and cause premature aging, but can also contain ingredients such as sodium dehydroacetate, an ingredient shown to help reduce sebum production as well as reduce the appearance of enlarged pores and uneven texture. “Moreover, SPF moisturizers, such as Olay Professional Pro-X Clear SPF 15 Moisturizer within the new Olay Professional Pro-X Clear line, are designed to work in tandem with an acne protocol regimen are also formulated to be non-come-

UV-B, UV-A, IN-VITRO UV-A SUNSCREEN TESTING • Over 25 Years of Sunscreen Testing Experience • Performed over 800 SPF/PFA Tests in 2010 • New FDA, New ISO, COLIPA, International Harmonization, JCIA, AS/NZS Methods • In-Vitro UV-A

2497 Vauxhall Road Union, NJ 07083 (908) 688-7600 Fax: (908) 688-7601 Email: [email protected] 82 • happi

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September 2011

What does EMD Chemicals offer me for UV protection in my formulas?

Superior protection driven by innovation! A full line of encapsulated, organic and inorganic Eusolex® sunscreens along with our newest introduction, the UV Titan line.. That's what's in it for you. EMD Chemicals

EMD Chemicals offers a wide portfolio of cosmetic actives In addition to our Eusolex and UV Titan lines, we offer avobenzone photostabilizers, antioxidants as well as post sun care ingredients. For more information please contact us at 888-367-3275 or visit us on the web at: www.emdchemicals.com

• UV Protection in Skin Care Products

dogenic and oil free—a must for acne prone skin,”Johnson said.

More Knowledge

This Aveeno moisturizer with SPF 30 battles blotchiness.

Continual research is driving a deeper understanding of UV-induced skin damage, which is, in turn, leading formulators to design more efficacious products. According to Knaggs, there are two notable findings of recent years that have extended the understanding of how damage from the sun occurs. “Firstly, skin damage can be caused

by all wavelengths of light and therefore modern sunscreens will need to incorporate technology which can shield the skin from these rays,”she said, noting that Nu Skin has collaborated with Lipo Chemicals and published data on a novel melanin derivative to shield skin from high energy visible light. “Second, no technology will provide complete protection from the damaging effects of light and therefore it is important to provide antioxidants to the skin, as well as other actives incorporating ingredients which can assist in DNA repair.” As an example, Knaggs pointed to Nu Skin 180° Night Cream, which includes light activated photosomes—DNA enzymes (phytolyase) derived from plankton that defend and support the skin’s intrinsic DNA repair process, and Moisture Restore Day Protective Lotion SPF 15, which feature UV light activated colorless

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carotenoids to provide a powerful antioxidant protection against the environment.

Playing by the Rules As advances in sun protection have advanced steadily over the years, many have suggested that the US Food and Drug Administration hasn’t kept pace with these innovations. But change is coming. On June 17, FDA announced new rules for sunscreen testing and labeling. The announcement has major implications for sunscreen products as well as daily skin care products and cosmetics labeled with sunscreen claims, including an SPF value. For the specifics on the FDA announcement and its implications, log onto an archive of HAPPI.COM’s recent webinar, “What’s the Latest Word on Sunscreens?” More than 1,200 people registered for this online event, which was held Aug. 11 and provided an extensive look ay the new rule from Reynold Tan, from the office of nonprescription products/division of nonprescription regulation CDER at FDA, as well as an active Q&A discussion. Additional insight on the FDA rule can also be found on p. 50 in this issue’s“The Sunscreen Filter,” written by HAPPI columnist Nadim Shaath. “With the new monograph, it will be standard practice to have a broad spectrum claim for all SPF products,” said Foltis of L’Oréal USA.“We will continue to see the trend of the addition of UV protection into daily treatment formulae to create a variety of multi-tasking products and in the end, enhance the results.” Skin care and cosmetic marketers touting products making SPF claims and offering UV protection have some work to do in the lab and the packaging design department to be in compliance and maintain aesthetics that consumers expect of today’s modern formulations. “Some of the hurdles we face are achieving the broad spectrum claim with the new sunscreen monograph while still maintain the aesthetics one expects with daily care,”Foltis said.“In other words, having the protection of a beach product with the aesthetics of daily care.”• September 2011

Show-In-Print 2011 This special section features advertising and advertorial material written by the suppliers. It gives Happi’s many readers who are involved in packaging a closer, more personal look at the firms they do business with on a day-to-day basis. These packaging and equipement suppliers specialize in the household and personal products industries. The pages that follow provide a unique look at the products, people and companies that serve the diverse packaging needs of this multi-billion dollar industry.

Happi Show in Print 2011

•

McKernan Packaging Clearing House McKernan Packaging Clearing House (MPCH) is one of those rare businesses that offer dual services. While considered a leader in the Packaging Supply Business, McKernan is actually a service corporation, helping smaller businesses, start-ups, and even larger companies find a variety of packaging components in various quantities. At the same time, McKernan also helps businesses dispose of their obsolete and surplus packaging which allows those companies the opportunity to recapture some of the inventory investment of those unused, discontinued packaging parts. It’s a win/win situation. When companies have surplus packaging it usually hangs around the warehouse until someone tosses it out.Those companies need to focus on their business and don’t have the time or the resources to try to sell off their inventory piece by piece. A company that sells their surplus to McKernan, not only recoups some of their costs, but they also have the opportunity to do something more environmentally responsible with their obsolete packaging, rather than placing them in a landfill. Our mission at McKernan is to give companies a profitable alternative to this unnecessary waste of the planet’s resources. McKernan utilizes“precycling,”or preconsumer recycling, involving re-purposing unused pre-consumer surplus goods,and insists it’s more cost-effective than recycling which, at best, only returns the price of raw materials minus processing cost.Tim McKernan, the company president,is adamant about distinguishing the fact that MPCH is not a recycler, but instead precycles new unbranded and unused packaging components. In fact, MPCH is the precycling concept originator and has been the industry pioneer for 52 years. McKernan even pays for freight, packaging and warehouse space. Precycling has become the politically appropriate means by which major marketers are profitably divesting their warehouses of unwanted, obsolete or discontinued surplus packaging without committing environmental neglect. On the other end of the spectrum, McKernan Packaging Clearing House offers a great service to businesses needing small quantities. Many start-ups and small businesses don’t have the capital required for large packaging commitments.The low minimum requirements really help these small entities get

September 2011

started. In addition, as new products are introduced, even larger companies want to test the marketing appeal before they commit to substantial quantities of packaging components.Likewise,if a company simply wants to replace a disc-cap with a pump dispenser as a limited-time special, McKernan is a great source for product.

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• Happi Show in Print 2011

ABA Packaging Corporation HEADQUARTERS:

MAJOR PRODUCTS:

740 Blue Point Road Holtsville, NY 11742 Tel: 800-443-9799 or 631-758-4200 Fax: 631-758-4295 [email protected] www.abapackaging.com

• • • • • • • • • • •

KEY PERSONNEL: Charles Marchese VP Marketing & Sales

Stock Glass Fragrance Bottles Stock Pumps Stock Glass Treatment Bottles Stock Glass Jars Airless Dispensing Systems Stock Sampler Vials Ceramic Decoration Stock Closures Acid Etching PETG Heavyweight Jars Acrylic Jars

Rafael Cruz Diretcor of Operations

SPECIALIZED SERVICES:

Mike Warford National Sales Manager

Complete packaging—all our components can be customized through such services as acid etching, ceramic decoration, metalizing, and hot stamping. Custom colors are also offered.

COMPANY DESCRIPTION: For over two decades ABA Packaging Corporation has been servicing the needs of the cosmetic packaging industry. From the newest startup companies that need only a thousand pieces to the major cosmetic manufacturers that need millions, we make the same caring effort to satisfy your every need. ABA Packaging views our customers not only as customers, but also as business partners. We feel that if you do well with your product, then we also do well. We have more then 100 years of knowledge in the packaging industry and are happy to help you with any and all your packaging needs. ABA is one of the fastest growing suppliers of stock cosmetic bottles, jars, sampler vials, pumps and caps of all sizes and colors. In addition to the items that appear in our catalog, we can also help you design and produce your own private design. Because we are a complete packaging company, all of our components can be customized though such services as acid etching, ceramic decorating, metalizing and hot stamping. And if it’s something we don’t do, we will be happy to refer you to a quality company that will fill that special need. We are here to serve you and make your products look their best.

MAJOR MARKETS: • • • •

Cosmetic and Personal Care Skin Care and Make Up Fine Fragrance and Nail Care Pharmaceutical

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GLOBAL CAPABILITIES: Through the ABA Packaging Web Site, customers from around the world no longer need to wait for a catalog to be delivered by mail. Our user-friendly Web Site features our full catalog and it’s always available and constantly updated with our newest products. And if you have any questions you can E-mail us directly from the site or you can call or fax us. Come see us at http://www.abapackaging.com or E-mail us at [email protected].

WHAT’S NEW AT ABA FOR 2010: High quality, innovative Mascara, Lip-Gloss, and Lipstick Packages from Germany! ABA Packaging Corp. recently teamed up with OEKAmetall of Bamberg Germany to represent their lines of OEKAbeauty packages in North America. The lines include innovative stock and custom wound and molded mascara brushes, flocked and nonflocked lip-gloss applicators, lip-gloss packages, mascara packages and lipstick cases. All of the products are produced by OEKAmetall in Europe. To compliment the product lines they provide decorating services which include metalizing, lacquer coatings, soft-touch coatings, hot-stamp and screen printing, and heat-transfer label application. OEKAbeauty products are used extensively by many of the major cosmetic companies so why not team up with the best! Visit the “What’s New” section of our website to learn more about these and other new ABA Packaging Corp. product offerings.

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September 2011

• Happi Show in Print 2011

DS Containers Headquarters: 1789 Hubbard Avenue Batavia, IL. 60510 Tel: 630-406-9600 Fax: 630-406-1438 www.dscontainers.com

Key Personnel: Bill Smith, Jr.: VP Operations John Duffy: VP Finance Matt Kuehn: VP Sales, Marketing, and Technical Support Kevin Richards: Director-Technical Services Mike Mikus: Manager-Quality Systems George Buckland: Managing Director of Sales and Business Development Ron Klimas and Brock Manner: Director of Sales

Company Description: In 2005, DS Containers opened the doors to a state-of-the-art manufacturing plant in Batavia, IL. Using proprietary technology developed by their Japanese partner, Daiwa Can Company, the 236,000 square foot facility produces a unique two-piece steel aerosol can that has made a significant impact on the North American market. After undergoing a major expansion in 2010, the Batavia operation has significantly expanded their capacity with the addition of two new can lines. They now offer two new sizes: 205x604 and 205x710.

Products Offered: DSC produces a two-piece container with no side-seam, an integral dome, corrosion resistant interior, and a contemporary shape. Customized printing in up to eight colors, as well as a pressurerelease option, is available. Four sizes, 205x604, 205x710, 211x604, and 211x713, are currently produced. While initially focused on the aerosol market, this distinctive container is easily adaptable to liquid products. It offers marketers a consumer-preferred alternative to the traditional three-piece can.

Markets Served: • Automotive • Food • Household Products • Industrial • Insect Sprays • Paint • Personal Care For more information on DS Containers, please visit www.dscontainers.com or email [email protected] 90 • happi

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September 2011

Introducing our two NEW sizes

205x710 205x604

211x713

211x 604

^^^KZJVU[HPULYZJVTc   /\IIHYK(]LU\Lc)H[H]PH03c         

• Happi Show in Print 2011

Madeline Blondman & Co., Inc. Headquarters:

Company Description:

Madeline Blondman Co., Inc. 60 Cutter Mill Road, Suite 408 Great Neck, NY 11021 Tel: 516-466-2400 Fax: 516-466-2925 Email: [email protected]

From its inception Madeline Blondman & Company has dedicated itself to delivering quality products, precision engineering and superior customer service. For thirty years, we have been supplying components to the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. We have the capability to custom manufacture discs for every size jar either plain or with your name or logo embossed or debossed. We can also die-cut flat mylar inserts for your compact which can be plain, printed, or hot-stamped. We manufacture our components from a variety of first quality American-made materials in various thicknesses, including white, clear and frosted PVC, white and clear PETG and our exclusive vinyl laminated with polypropylene (VP). Our custom built machinery allows us to have total control over quality and tolerances.

Founded: 1972

Key Personnel: Madeline Blondman, President Randi Barron,Vice President Maita Schoen, Sales Jean Dizik, Sales

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Happi Show in Print 2011 •

Unit Pack Co., Inc. Headquarters:

of forging partnerships with our customers in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and industry.The Unit Pack name is synonymous with innovative research and improvements in unit-of-use packaging. We stand ready to serve all of your packaging needs.

7 Lewis Road Cedar Grove, NJ 07009 USA Toll Free Number: 877-930-3200 Tel: 973-239-4112 • Fax: 973-239-0429 E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: www.unitpack.com

Products:

Key Personnel: Ernest W. Loesser President

Company Description: Unit Pack was founded in 1964, when the production line for the first Saran Wrap film pouch was introduced.Today, we are a leading producer of single-dose film dispensing packaging. Our state-ofthe-art facility is designed for flexibility, and our rapid changeover ability assures consistent on-time delivery. We recognize not only the importance of providing the best products and services, but also

September 2011

The Unit Pack is the effective way to fulfill your sampling and unitof-use packaging needs. Unit Pack produces flexible unit-of-use pillow pouches in any size from 0.5 mL through 30 mL. Hot-stamped decorated packs are available in clear or white. The Unit Pack is a study in effective packaging design.The easy tear tip is just that, easy to tear. Once the package is opened, a metering channel remains providing excellent product dispensing. Unit Packs are manufactured with fully recyclable materials. Unit Pack is an FDA inspected and Certified Organic Facility. All applicable GMPs are in place.

What’s New: Certified Organic Repackager and introducing fully recycable pouches.

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• Happi Show in Print 2011

the power of options

Package Design & Development Our award-winning designers will work with you to develop highly creative and strategically focused solutions for your specific requirements. Our design center creates, on average, over 1000 custom designs annually. We encourage you to visit, pull up a chair and engage in a good old fashioned brainstorming session. On more than one occasion, customers have left with an FDM model as a result. Our creativity, experience and state-of-the-art technology combine to deliver the right package for your needs.

Engineering Packaging happens in phases. Which is why some of us are full-time packaging engineering specialists. We rely on our extensive technical expertise to make sure your packaging is successfully manufactured to your specifications. Using the latest engineering software and hardware, our highly skilled engineers and mold technicians take pride in moving your project effectively and efficiently from concept to completion.

Keith Strope President & CEO

Kenneth Kranzberg Chairman of the Board

Logistics Being organized is a quality that makes everything easier. Working with warehouse and branch offices nationwide and internationally, our detail oriented Account Coordinators and Global Sourcing Specialists collaborate with you to speed your product to market.

Knowledge Collectively, our people represent centuries of industry expertise. We’re always looking to increase that knowledge. Our Global Business Development Group focuses on specific markets — learning the needs and concerns. This intense study drives innovation and technological advances. Often those advances are not just specific to those markets. Your next project might be the beneficiary of that innovation.

Scale, Stability & Supplier Relationships Quite simply, TricorBraun is one of North America’s largest rigid packaging suppliers. With our financial security and steady growth, combined with our supplier relationships domestically and around the world, no one is better poised to negotiate the best services and costs on your behalf. We choose dedicated manufacturers who share our level of involvement, dedication and support for your success.

For further information, please contact: [email protected]

10330 Old Olive Street Rd., St. Louis, MO 63141 | 800 325 7782 | Fax 314 569 5087 www.tricorbraun.com/happi09

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September 2011

passion We provide rigid packaging. We have over 100 years of experience in the industry, over 40 offices worldwide, 500 plus employees with specialties ranging from customer service to logistics to global sourcing to design and engineering. While all of that’s important, the real reason to do business with us is not what we do but why we do it. At TricorBraun, we’re passionate about making your life simple. We understand how complex packaging can be so we’re constantly looking for innovative ways to streamline that process for you. Each and every member of the TricorBraun team exists to provide packaging professionals like you with more options for success.

options plus

1 800 325 7782 | www.tricorbraun.com/happi09 |

the power of options

Scan the QR code to learn more about TricorBraun’s packaging options.

• Happi Show in Print 2011

Label Technology Headquarters: 2050 Wardrobe Avenue Merced, CA 95341 Toll Free: 800-388-1990 Phone: 209-384-1000 Fax: 209-384-0322 Email: [email protected] www.labeltech.com

Company Description: After 25 years in business, Label Technology’s reputation for quality and service is unparalleled. We are committed to providing our customers with graphics excellence and product solutions that compel consumers to purchase products. Our dedication to creative design, manufacturing excellence, and rapid delivery provides our customers with packaging that differentiates brands and accelerates sales performance. Label Technology can provide you high barrier packaging film with our stunning graphics that will give your Cosmetic and Beauty Aid products a high impact appeal that jumps off the shelf. We inventory a variety of specialized high-barrier foilbased cosmetic web constructions, plus hard-to-hold Barex® sealants,“Ultra-White”films, clear and metallized films, plus special matte and clear over-laminations that are ideal for packaging shampoos, conditioners, color gels, hair treatments, skin creams, masks, makeup, tanning lotions, and high SPF sunblocks. Label Technology is an expert in determining and producing the most appropriate and cost-effective packaging construction for your specific requirements that will protect your product and perform at optimum speeds on your production line, including die-cuts and magazine insert pouches. Our 175 to 200-line screen process printing, special ink formulations, and reverse-printed water-based laminations will create a custom packaging construction for your product that will ensure that your flexible packaging will exceed your expectations—and look great!

Key Personnel: Dennis Deisenroth Vice President Flexible Packaging Marygrace Quigley Communications

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Printing Excellence: Label Technology is proud to be the recipient of over 100 industry awards for excellence in printing including Best of Show awards from the Flexographic Technical Association for the 2011, 2010, 2009, 2008, and 2006 Excellence in Flexography Competitions. Our technical expertise translates into high impact packaging for you.

Major Markets: Cosmetic and Beauty Aid Nutraceutical Medical and Health Care Food and Beverage

Major Products: • High Quality Printed Flexible Packaging for Sachets and Sample Packets • Easy Tear Stick Pack Material • Ultra-white and Custom Constructions • Pre-formed Gusset and Zipper Pouches • Pressure Sensitive Labels

Specialized Services: • Specialized high-barrier foil-based cosmetic web constructions • Custom on-site lamination • Research and development capabilities to design multilayer constructions for the most challenging applications • Wide range of base materials inventoried on our floor including recyclable, compostable, & biodegradable films

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September 2011

Financial News

ESTÉE LAUDER POSTS RECORD RESULTS FOR 2011 •The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. reported record results for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2011. For the year, sales rose 13% to $8.81 billion. Excluding the impact of foreign currency translation, net sales increased 12% from a year ago. Net earnings for the year jumped to $700.8 million, compared with $478.3 million last year. “Fiscal 2011 was an outstanding year for our company. We achieved record sales, gross margin, operating margin, earnings per share and operating cash flow,”said Fabrizio Freda, president and chief executive officer.“These results confirm that our strategy is working and has allowed us to reach our original 13% operating margin target two years earlier than anticipated. We are pleased that our performance is creating greater stockholder value, as evidenced by our increased market capitalization this past year.” According to Freda, the company made significant progress executing its strategy and expects to continue to benefit from the many initiatives being implemented, along with a more strategically focused approach to spending. “We had strong sales growth in every geographic region and product category, and notably, we recorded the best performance in North America in a decade, including excellent department store results,” he added. “Our company also established market leadership in China in prestige, and in the important fast growing travel retail channel the company became the leader in skin care.” In fiscal 2012, Estée Lauder will continue to focus its creative ingenuity on the biggest product ideas and marketing opportunities, improve its high-touch services, aggressively pursue growth in emerging markets and distribution channels and invest in strategic modernization initiative. “We have strong momentum that we will support with higher investment spending, and intend to continue to gain share globally and increase profitability,” he ex98 • happi

plained. “Based on our conviction in our strategy and long-term outlook, we are extending our financial goals to fiscal 2014 and raising our operating margin target to between 14.5% and 15%.” The company said its record performance was due to stronger overall business, particularly from its largest brands, helped by a weaker US dollar.The company posted strong across-the-board sales gains in its geographic regions and major product categories. Sales also increased in all major product categories within each region. Sales growth was particularly strong in the US, travel retail and emerging markets. These results reflect solid increases from higher-margin product launches and the positive impact of more effective advertising spending.The higher results also reflect a favorable comparison to the prior year, which included a charge for returns related to the company’s long-term perfumery strategy in the Europe, the Middle East & Africa region of approximately $31 million.

Q2 Sales Jump More Than 9% For Colgate-Palmolive •Second quarter net sales rose 9.5% to $4.2 billion at Colgate-Palmolive Company. Global unit volume grew 3.0%, pricing increased 0.5% and foreign exchange was positive 6.0%. Net income increased 3% to $622 million, while operating profit increased 2% to $968 million in second quarter 2011. As previously announced, as part of its strategy to focus on its higher-margin oral care, personal care and pet nutrition businesses, on June 20, 2011 Colgate completed the purchase of the Sanex personal care brand from Unilever PLC for €672 million ($960 million). Sanex is a premium-priced personal care brand with a distinct positioning around healthy skin and strong market share positions in Europe. Also as previously announced, in connection with the Sanex acquisition, Colgate happi.com

agreed to sell its laundry detergent brands in Colombia to Unilever for approximately $215 million resulting in an aftertax gain of approximately $130 million. The detergent sale recently received regulatory approval and was expected to close early in the third quarter.The company now expects that this gain will be fully offset in the second half of 2011 as a result of the implementation of various business realignment and other cost-saving initiatives, further driving improvements in effectiveness and efficiency globally. Ian Cook, chairman, president and chief executive officer, commented, “We are pleased with our solid top and bottom line growth this quarter with worldwide net sales, operating profit, net income and diluted earnings per share all increasing versus year ago, despite very sharp increases in material costs, an intense competitive environment globally and challenging macroeconomic conditions, particularly in developed markets. “Colgate’s global market shares in toothpaste and manual toothbrushes are both at record highs year to date. Colgate’s share of the global toothpaste market strengthened to 44.6% year to date,”Cook said.

Sales Surge 9% for Avon in Q2 •Avon Products, Inc. reported second quarter 2011 total revenue of $2.9 billion— 9% higher than last year. Total units declined 3%, while price/mix rose 5% during the quarter. Active representatives were flat. “Our first half 2011 results were in line with our expectations of low-single digit constant-dollar growth and adjusted operating margins flat with a year ago,”said Andrea Jung, Avon’s chairman and chief executive officer. “We continue to expect mid-single digit revenue growth in the second half of this year, driven by our major global field activation program around our 125th anniversary. We also continue to exSeptember 2011

Financial News

pect significant margin expansion in the second half, resulting from gross margin improvement and revenue leverage.” Avon’s beauty sales increased 8%. On a reported basis, fragrance and personal care sales increased 11%, color rose 8% and skin care grew 3%. However, second-quarter 2011 revenue in North America was down 7%, according to Avon. Latin America’s revenue was up 19% year over year, with continued strong growth in most large markets. In Central & Eastern Europe, secondquarter revenue was up 5%. Western Europe, Middle East & Africa’s revenue increased 13%. Asia Pacific reported a decline of 5%, according to the company.

Ecolab’s Q2 Sales Rise 12% •Ecolab Inc. reported a strong second quarter performance led by solid sales gains in its US cleaning and sanitizing businesses, Asia Pacific and Latin America operations and a strong performance from acquisitions. Ecolab’s reported sales rose 12% to $1.7 billion in the second quarter of 2011; when measured in fixed currencies, sales rose 8%. Adjusted for currency and acquisitions, sales rose 5%. Reported net income attributable to shareholders declined 3% to $126 million. Second quarter 2011 sales for Ecolab’s US Cleaning & Sanitizing operations rose 9% to $752 million. Adjusted for acquisitions, sales increased 6%. Food & Beverage, Kay and Institutional led the growth. Ecolab’s U.S. Cleaning & Sanitizing operating income increased 3% to $143 million. Ad-

September 2011

justed for acquisitions, US Cleaning & Sanitizing operating income decreased 4%, primarily reflecting the impact of higher delivered product costs, which Ecolab believes peaked in North America in the second quarter. US “other services” sales increased 1% to $116 million in the second quarter. Operating income declined 15% to $16 million as higher service delivery costs more than offset sales gains and cost savings actions. Sales from Ecolab’s international operations, when measured at fixed currency rates, grew 7% to $781 million in the second quarter. Adjusted for acquisitions and divestitures, fixed currency sales increased 5%. Fixed currency operating income increased 26% to $71 million in the second quarter as margins expanded in Ecolab’s international regions, led by EMEA. When measured at public currency rates, international sales increased 16% and operating income rose 40%.

Beauty Retailer Sees Strong Q1 •Salon, cosmetics and fragrance retailer Ulta posted favorable financial results for the first quarter ended April 30, 2011. Net sales increased 20.6% to $386.0 million; while operating income increased 67.4% to $39.1 million. Net income soared 70.5% to $23.3 million. “We had a terrific start to the year with total sales, comparable store sales and net income per share solidly ahead of our guidance, demonstrating the ongoing preference of our beauty experience and the continued

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success of our growth strategies,” stated Chuck Rubin, president and chief executive officer of Ulta.“Our first quarter results included net sales growth of 20.6% driven by an 11.1% increase in comparable store sales and the expansion of our store base. Operating income grew faster than sales climbing 67.4% from the first quarter last year to 10.1% of net sales. During the quarter, we gained market share advancing each of the priorities we set at the beginning of the year. To this end, we were pleased with our new store performance and remain on track to expand square footage by 16% this year.” According to Rubin, the retailer“generated consumer excitement and heightened interest in Ulta with newness across categories, brands and services. In addition, we saw robust growth in guest count in our Ulta stores and at ulta.com as we leveraged our active eight million-member loyalty base and delivered compelling social media, email and direct mail marketing campaigns. I am pleased with our positioning as we begin the second quarter and expect the continued implementation and strength of our strategies coupled with the focused execution of our team to result in a strong year of growth and significant accomplishments toward our long term goals.” For the second quarter of fiscal 2011, the company said it expects net sales in the range of $378 million to $384 million, compared to actual net sales of $321.8 million in the second quarter of fiscal 2010. For fiscal 2011, the company said it plans to open approximately 61 new stores and remodel 17 locations.•

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Packaging News

M&H WORKS ON DEODORANT RELAUNCH •M&H worked with Severn Delta on the relaunch of PitRok natural deodorants. The new collection includes PitRok Natural Spray Deodorants in 100ml non-aerosol tubulars, 50ml natural crystal push up deodorant and natural roll-on deodorant fragranced for women. Severn Delta selected products from M&H’s portfolio of more than 1,000 Severn Delta tapped M&H for its PitRock products in order to relaunch. offer a cost-effective packaging solution. The products have been packaged in a distinctive color palette of black, gold and silver, which have high shelf appeal and convey a premium image, according to the company. Tracy Sellar created the graphic design. More info: www.mhplastics.com

uct needed, then turn back to lock and close. More info: www.qosmedix.com

TricorBraun Releases White Paper •A brand’s quality reputation can be destroyed on the retail shelf by a bottle that has become deformed. Joseph Haun, TricorBraun quality engineer, has prepared a white paper about a condition known as panel sink, which distorts bottles. Panel sink occurs when the bottle’s sidewalls are sucked in by an increased pressure differential between the bottle’s contents and the surrounding environment. The pressure disparity is caused by a reduction in the volume of product in the bottle or a loss of gas and/or moisture through the bottle walls. It occurs most frequently on cylindrical bottles. According to the company, panel sink is a universal concern for bottlers because there are many circumstances that bring about a pressure differential. However, there are also numerous ways to prevent panel sink by varying the bottle’s structure, changing the resin from which it is made or evaluating how the bottle it is treated before it is filled. More info: www.tricorbraun.com

Qosmedix Introduces Two New Sifter Jars with Twist/Lock Feature

Diamond Packaging Honored For Its Centennial Calendar

•Qosmedix added two new sifter jars to its rapidly expanding packaging line. These clear polystyrene jars come complete with matte black polystyrene caps and polypropylene sifters. Choose from two standard sizes for powder-based formulas: 20g (Part # 10040) or 30g (Part # 10041).

Clear polystyrene jars come complete with matte black polystyrene caps and polypropylene sifters.

According to the company, the innovative sifter has a twist/lock feature that helps prevent contents from spilling or collecting in the cap. Gently twist the ridge to open, dose out amount of prod100 • happi

•Diamond Packaging won its first ever Benny Award in the 62nd annual Premier Print Awards competition, the graphic arts industry’s largest and most prestigious worldwide printing competition. Printing Industries of America (PIA) hosts the Premier Print Awards, which recognizes the creation and production of superior print communications. Of the more than 3,200 entries received, Diamond’s entries were chosen for exemplifying the highest standards in the printing industry. It won the coveted Benny Award for its Diamond 2011 Centennial Calendar, and in recognition will receive the“Benny,”a bronze statuette of Benjamin Franklin. Diamond also won Certificates of Merit for the Beiersdorf Mini Gift Set and for the Diamond 2011 Centennial Calendar. The total represents the highest number of awards Diamond has ever won in this competition. The calendar was decorated with the latest in package printing technologies, including specialty coatings (emboss, pearl, textured, soft touch), MiraFoil environmentally-friendly coating, Cast and Cure holographic effects, foil stamping and multi-level embossing. It introduced several of its new specialty coatings (DiamondEmboss, DiamondPearl, DiamondTexture and DiamondTouch) on the cover and several of its layouts. More info: www.diamondpackaging.com

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September 2011

Packaging News

Rexam Rolls Out Vacation Sensation

An exciting new mini-product program from Rexam.

•The new Vacation Sensation trade promotion from Rexam Personal Care helps customers build powerful mini-product programs that excite consumers of mass, masstige and prestige fragrances, according to the company. The Vacation Sensation promotion focuses upon three iconic 10ml fragrance solutions: The Sofilux pen with metal cap and translucent SP5K pump provides optimal spray quality and a premium look that exudes an unmistakable sense of luxury; The Sofilux pen with plastic cap and translucent SP5K pump option provides superior spray quality and customizable good looks perfect for appealing on-the-go products; and The Sof’n’touch pen, a classic applicator and cap design that represents the economical and impactful alternative, encourages on-the-go usage with optimal cost-efficiency and precise application. It is customizable in all possible color combinations. More info: www.rexam.com

Sonoco Builds Plant in Ohio •The diversified global packaging company Sonoco will build a 120,000-plus square-foot rigid plastic container plant in its Beauty and Home Care campus in New Albany, Ohio, for a new contract with Mast Global, the sourcing and logistics division of Limited Brands. The plant is expected to be operational by the end of the second quarter of 2012 and initially will produce products for Limited Brands' Bath and Body Works stores. Other Limited Brand companies include Victoria's Secret, Pink, LaSenza, and Henri Bendel. The plans include several PET injection stretch blow-molding and injection molding lines to produce packaging and components for personal care products, according to Rodger Fuller, vice president

September 2011

of Rigid Paper and Plastics. Total cost of the building and equipment is estimated to be $15 million and the operation will employ about 60 new workers.

James Alexander Corp. Launches New Website James Alexander Corporation, a manufacturer and contract packager of unit-dose dispensing systems for the cosmetic market, recently launched a redesign of its www.james-alexander.com website. The revamped site provides an overview of James Alexander’s two main product categories: glass ampoules and plastic ampoules. The streamlined website also presents brief video clips demonstrating the proper use for its ampoules. And also features updated information on products, benefits and accessories.•

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New Products

GO SMILE ROLLS OUT STARTER KIT according to the company. This scent incorporates everything from the souls of his rubber shoes (emulated within the bottle) to the iconic silhouette.

The Go Discover kit features a toothwhitening paste, products and even a lip treatment.

Rebel Glam New from Jessica •This year, fall fashion is all about pushing limits and going against the norm with daring style. Nail color is a girl’s“it”accessory that shows off her individuality and flair. That is why celebrity nail expert Jessica (who goes by one name) created a fall collection of wild hue that rock traditional style, according to the company.

•Prestige oral care brand Go Smile recently introduced Go Discover ($59), the ultimate starter kit to a whiter smile and ideal travel companion, according to the company. Jump start whitening with a two-day“introduction”to Go Smile’s Speed Whitening System. The kit features an AM Luxury Toothpaste, a zesty mix of lemon, lime, orange and peppermint flavors; Touch Up Smile Perfecting Ampoules for brightening and a moisturizing lip treatment with vitamin E and shea butter. More info: www.gosmile.com Take Flight with Michael Jordan •Introducing Michael Jordan’s fifth fragrance, “Flight” ($35$45), a next generation fragrance that takes inspiration from all elements that helped solidify the basketball star as a legendary icon, This is Jordan’s fifth fragrance.

Rebel Glam is the latest nail color collection from Jessica Cosmetics.

The new Rebel Glam collection ($7.50) is a bold, sexy, six-piece assortment of dark, rich colors that will make a statement and inspire one to live glamorously rebellious. With a wide range of dramatic shades including moody plums, grunge greens and vampy red, there are a variety of edgy looks for Fall 2011.

Diane Von Furstenberg— The Fragrance •Diane von Furstenberg is a fashion legend. Now the designer has infused a lifetime of aspirational style in a deeply personal fragrance that bears the name she was born with: Diane. Created in collaboration with Hall of Fame FiFi award winner Chantal Roos and master perfumer Aurelien Guichard of Givaudan, Diane opens with bold notes of frangipani, an exotic floral that gives the wearer presence and confidence. Frangipani is intertwined with subtle notes of violet leaves, giving the scent a fresh,

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Diane by Diane von Furstenberg

September 2011

New Products

green accent with a mysterious touch. The fragrance’s powerful femininity is enhanced by base notes of myrrh, musk and patchouli. The fragrance is housed in a bottle featuring interlocking golden rings evocative of another signature Diane von Furstenberg accessory: the Sutra bracelet. Products range from a body lotion ($45) to an eau de toilette ($90) and will be sold at Bloomingdales, Nordstrom and Sephora. More info: www.dvf.com

Skin Plus Scent detergent is designed to provide sensitive skin households with the option to enjoy clean and fresh-smelling laundry. The formulation is hypoallergenic and clinically tested. More info: www.armandhammer.com Arm & Hammer Sensitive Skin Plus Scent

Car Care Line for Special Automobiles •Barrett-Jackson Auction Company, a Scottsdale, AZ firm that provides products to collector car owners, has rolled out its own line of car care products. The Barrett-Jackson Signature Car Care line is billed as a systematic approach to the collector car preparation, and includes a four-step process to achieve a perfect paint renovation, according to the company, which worked closely with Farécla to create the range. Products include Show Shine Wash, Rapid Scratch Remover, Deep Shine Micro-Polish and Protective Shine Wax, an interlinked formula of waxes and polymers that deliver ultra-fast, ultra-tough

Tasty new hand sanitizer flavors from Bath & Body Works.

Confection Perfection Pocketbacs Next at Bath & Body Works •Inspired by delicious desert drinks, Bath & Body Works presents an irresistible new collection of“pocketbacs”hand sanitizers for fall 2011 ($1.50 each). Fragrances include Dipped Strawberry, Caramel Cocoa Whip, Raspberry Ganache Swirl, Mocha Mousse and Pistachio Vanilla. More info: www.bathandbodyworks.com

Arm & Hammer Sensitive Skin Plus Scent Detergent •Church & Dwight has rolled out a new variant in its Arm & Hammer detergent collection. New Arm & Hammer Sensitive

September 2011

Barrett-Jackson Signature Car Care

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New Products

shine and protection for up to six months. The collection also includes Barrett-Jackson Rapid Detailer, which combines an everyday mild cleanser and fast drying wax for all exterior surfaces. More info: www.barrett-jackson/carcare

Aura Cacia Introduces Organic Skin Care Oils •Essential oils expert Aura Cacia rolled out five new skin care oils sourced from around the world and certified organic through the USDA’s National Organic Program. Packaged in one ounce glass bottles with a pump dispenser, each special oil is minimally

New Exude Lipstick Offers Unique Applicator •Exude Lipstick is designed for the millions of women who welcome the glamour of lipstick, but know that until now the process of putting on lipstick has been anything but glamorous. Key to the brand’s design is a new crystal applicator that releases the perfect amount of lipstick each user needs. It also retains its shape over time, so women will never have to worry about their lipstick wearing down, melting or crumbling, according to the company. Both lip creme (coral, cranberry, rosy brown, nude, brown, bronze, Exude Lipstick plum, red, and pink) and lip gloss (crimson, brown, clear, dusty pink, and scarlet red) formulations are available. More info: www.exudelipstick.com

Animal Kingdom • The oneCARE Company, under a license with Nestlé Purina PetCare Company, has made Purina Pet Gear products available in Walmart stores throughout the US. The line includes household cleaners designed to make a new pet’s homecoming easier. Purina Pet Gear Pet Stain & Odor Eliminator for carpet and upholstery removes pet stains and the odors that lead puppies back to the same spots, all without damaging carpet or furniture. The unique pro-enzyme formula is a blend of six enzymes that break down stains and eliminate odors safely and naturally, according to oneCARE, which is based in Alpharetta, GA. More info:www.onecareco.com Purina Pet Gear’s stain and odor product.

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New skin care oils from Aura Cacia.

refined ensuring that the natural fatty acids and other key nutrients for the skin remain intact providing maximum antioxidant benefits, according to the company. The range includes argan oil, baobab oil, macadamia nut oil, rosehip oil and tamanu oil. More info: www.auracacia.com •

• Simple Solution Stain + Odor Remover, designed to discourage pets from repeat marking, now comes in Rainforest Fresh and Spring Breeze scents, according to The Brampton Company, Dallas. The professional-strength pro-bacteria and enzyme formulas break down organic proteins to remove unwanted stains. “Pet owners shouldn’t have to choose between stain and odor removers that provide results and ones that provide a clean, fresh smell,” said Mike Mockler, Simple Solution brand manager. “In addition to actually eliminating even the toughest pet stains and odors and preventing pets from re-markSimple Solution ing, pet owners can now enjoy the proven formula’s Rainforest Fresh and Spring Breeze tackles pet stains scents as well.” and odor with a More info: www.simplesolution.com clean, fresh scent.

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September 2011

Meetings

FLORIDA SCC CHAPTER HOSTS SUNSCREEN SYMPOSIUM Sept. 12-14: Beyond Beauty Paris, Porte de Versailles, France.

Major Meetings at a Glance

More info: www.beyondbeautyparis.com

Sept. 14: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Networking Luncheon, The Manhattan Club at Rosie O’Grady’s, NewYork, NY. More info: www.cibsonline.com

Sept. 14-15: MakeUp in New York, Studio 450, NewYork, NY. More info: Beauteam, Tel: +33-1-42-73-96-61, E-mail: [email protected]

Sept. 15-17: Florida Chapter, Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Sunscreen Symposium, Disney’s Yacht and Beach Club, Walt Disney World, Orlando, FL. More info: www.flscc.org/ sunscreensymposium.html

Sept. 21: Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) Newsmaker Forum, A Conversation with Andrea Jung of Avon, The Harmonie Club, NewYork City. More info: www.cew.org

Sept. 21: HBA Global Virtual Trade Show: Re-Connect. More info: Kevin Roach, [email protected], www.hbaexpo.com

Sept. 22: 29th Women in Flavor and Fragrance Commerce (WFFC) Open Dinner, Westmount Country Club, West Paterson, NJ.

Sept. 15-17: Florida Chapter, Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Sunscreen Symposium, Disney’sYacht and Beach Club, Walt Disney World, Orlando, FL. More info: www.flscc.org/sunscreensymposium.html

Oct. 25-26: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) California Suppliers’ Day, Long Beach, CA. More info: www.caliscc.org

Dec. 4-8: Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) 98th Annual Meeting, Marriott Harbor Beach Resort, Fort Lauderdale, FL. More info: www.cspa.org

Dec. 8-9: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Annual Meeting, New York Hilton, NewYork, NY. More info: www.scconline.org

2012 Jan. 30-Feb. 4: The American Cleaning Institute (ACI) Annual Meeting, Grand Lakes Marriott, Orlando, FL. More info: www.cleaninginstitute.org

April 17-19: In-Cosmetics 2012, Hall 2, Gran Via, Fira Barcelona, Spain. More info: www.in-cosmetics.com

May 15-16: New York Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Suppliers’ Day, The New Jersey Convention and Exposition Center, Raritan Center, Edison, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org

May 31-June 1: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Annual Scientific Seminar 2012, Charleston Marriott, Charleston, SC. More info: www.scconline.org

Oct. 15-18: International Federation of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) 27th Congress, South Africa. More info: www.ifscc2012.co.za

More info: www.wffc.org

Sept. 22: New Jersey Packaging Executives Club (NJPEC) Hall of Fame Dinner,The Manor, West Orange, NJ.

Sept. 24-26: InterCharm Milano, Halls 12-4, Fieramilanocity, Milan, Italy

More info: www.njpec.com

More info: www.intercharm.it

Sept. 22: New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Culinary Event, I.C.E., NewYork.

Sept. 26-28: Pack Expo, LasVegas Convention Center, Las Vegas, NV.

More info: www.nyscc.org

Sept. 26-27: ICMPack, Hall 2, Fieramilanocity, Milan, Italy.

Sept. 24-26: Outlook Personal Care Conference, Budapest, Hungary. More info: www.edana.org

Sept. 24-26: Day Spa Association ProKnowledge Workshops, Sheraton Airport Hotel, Portland, OR. More info: www.dayspaassociation.com 106 • happi

More info: www.packexpo.com

More info: www.intercharm.it

Oct. 4: Fragrance Foundation Circle of Champions Honoring Camille McDonald, The St. Regis, NewYork, NY.

Sheraton Hotel, NewYork City. More info: www.naturalbeautysummit.com

Oct. 12: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Networking Luncheon, The Manhattan Club at Rosie O’Grady’s, NewYork, NY. More info: www.cibsonline.com

Oct. 13: WFFC Fall Seminar, Saddle Brook Marriott, Saddle Brook, NJ. More info: www.wffc.org

More info: www.fragrance.org

Oct. 14: The Cosmetic Executive Women Achiever Awards, The Waldorf-Astoria, NewYork City.

Oct. 6-7: Natural Beauty Summit America,

More info: www.cew.org

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September 2011

ackaging p e v i t a e r c r o show f T h e p re m i e r

- Photo : D. Combet

C R E AT E A U N I Q U E L I N K

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Grimaldi Forum / Monaco Under the Patronage of his Serene Highness the Sovereign Prince of Monaco

www.luxepack.com Information / FRANCE Idice T. +33 (0)4 74 73 42 33 - [email protected] USA KX Associates Inc T. + 1 212 274 8508 [email protected]

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19 . 20. 21 OCTOBER 2011

Meetings

Oct. 16-19: Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA), New Horizons 2011, Ponte Vedra, FL. More info: www.cspa.org

Oct. 17-21: 14th AOCS Latin American Congress and Exhibition on Fats & Oils, The Hilton, Cartagena, Columbia. More info: www.aocs.org

Oct. 18: Fragrance Foundation Pop Your Cork/Associate Board Wine Tasting Event, City Winery, NewYork, NY. More info: www.fragrance.org

Oct. 18-21: ISSA/Interclean North America, Las Vegas Convention Center, Las Vegas, NV. More info: www.issa.com

Oct. 19: NewYork Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Professional Development Day, Montclair State University, Montclair, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org/pds2011.html

Oct. 19-21: Luxe Pack Monaco, Grimaldi Forum, Monaco. More info: www.luxepack.com

Oct. 24-25: Latin America Surfactants, Personal & Home Care Markets–Moving Towards Eco-Trends in a Fast Growing Region, Sao Paulo, Brazil. More info: www.cmtevents.com

More info: www.cibsonline.com

Nov. 13-15: Private Label Manufacturers Association (PLMA) 2011 Private Label Trade Show, Rosemont Convention Center, Chicago, IL. More info: www.plma.com

More info: www.pcd-congress.com

Nov. 15: Fragrance Foundation Making Sense of Scents Career Guidance Fair For High School Students, Baruch College Conference Center, NewYork, NY.

March 20-22: Cleaning Products Europe 2012, Crowne Plaza, St. Peters Hotel, Rome, Italy.

More info: www.fragrance.org

More info: www.cleaningproductseurope.com

Nov. 17: Fragrance Foundation State of the Industry, Harvard Club, NewYork, NY.

April 3-4: Luxe Pack Shanghai, Shanghai Convention Center, Shanghai, China.

More info: www.fragrance.org

More info: www.luxepack.com

Nov. 17: New Jersey Packaging Executives Club (NJPEC) 2011 Package of theYear Awards,The Madison Hotel, 1 Convent Road, Morristown, NJ.

April 17-19: In-Cosmetics 2012, Hall 2, Gran Via, Fira Barcelona, Spain.

More info: www.njpec.com

Dec. 1: Fragrance Foundation 2011 Celebrity Trends Cocktail Reception and Panel Discussion, Time/Life Building, NewYork, NY. More info: www.fragrance.org

More info: www.cspa.org

Oct. 25-26: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) California Suppliers’ Day, Long Beach, CA.

Dec. 7: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Continuing Education Courses, Ethnic Product Relaxer Formulation: a New Technological Approach and Innovation in Personal Care Products, Hilton NewYork, NewYork City.

Nov. 7-9: International Spa Association Conference and Expo, Mandalay Bay, Las Vegas, NV. More info: www.experienceispa.com

Nov. 7-8: Asia-Pacific Sustainable Cosmetics Summit, Hong Kong, China. More info: www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com

Nov. 9: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Members Only Luncheon, The Harvard Club, NewYork, NY. 108 • happi

More info: www.cleaninginstitute.org

More info: www.isnff.org

More info: www.pigmentmarkets.com

More info: [email protected]

Jan. 30-Feb. 4: The American Cleaning Institute (ACI) Annual Meeting, Grand Lakes Marriott, Orlando, FL.

Feb. 8-9: PCD and Aerosol & Dispensing Forum, Paris, France.

Dec. 4-8: Consumer Specialty Products Association (CSPA) 98th Annual Meeting, Marriott Harbor Beach Resort, Fort Lauderdale, FL.

Nov. 1-3: International Federation of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) Conference, Bangkok, Thailand.

More info: www.inda.org

Nov. 14-17: International Society for Nutraceuticals & Functional Foods (ISNFF) Annual Conference, Sapporo, Japan.

Oct. 24-28: Future of Pigments, Color Cosmetics and Hair Color Global Forum, Berlin, Germany.

More info: www.caliscc.org

New Orleans, LA.

More info: www.scconline.org

More info: www.in-cosmetics.com

April 28-30: 13th China Surfactant and Detergent Exhibition, Shanghai Everbright Convention Center, China. More info: www.iesexpo.com

May 10-12: North American Sustainable Cosmetics Summit, New York, NY. More info: www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com

May 15-16: New York Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Suppliers’ Day, The New Jersey Convention and Exposition Center, Raritan Center, Edison, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org

May 16-17: Luxe Pack New York, Metropolitan Pavilion and Altman Building, New York City. More info: www.luxepack.com

Dec. 8-9: Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Meeting, NewYork Hilton, New York, NY.

May 31-June 1: Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC) Annual Scientific Seminar 2012, Charleston Marriott, Charleston, SC.

More info: www.scconline.org

More info: www.scconline.org

Dec. 14: Cosmetic Industry Buyers and Suppliers (CIBS) Networking Luncheon, The Manhattan Club at Rosie O’Grady’s, NewYork, NY.

June 19-21: HBA Global Expo & Conference, Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, New York City.

More info: www.cibsonline.com

Oct. 15-18: International Federation of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) 27th Congress, South Africa.

2012 Jan. 24-26: Vision Consumer Products Conference, Hotel Intercontinental, happi.com

More info: www.hbaexpo.com

More info: www.ifscc2012.co.za

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September 2011

Supplier’s Corner

UNIVERSAL CONDITIONING AGENT FROM EVONIK •Silicone Quaternium-22 (trade name: Abil T Quat 60) from Evonik represents a universally applicable conditioning agent with outstanding conditioning features such as easy detangling, smooth wet comb and superior feel, according to the company. Verified by a new study performed with TRI/Princeton, Silicone Quaternium-22 also provides efficient protection against hair fiber breakage. It is effective in both conditioner and shampoo formulations. With its additional benefits like superior skin feel and good foam properties as well as excellent processability, strong reduction of combing forces, heat protection properties and improved color wash-fastness of dyed hair, Silicone Quaternium-22 is a premium, easy-to-use conditioning agent. More info: www.evonik.com

Silicone System Delivers Sensorial Edge •A pioneer in the field of silicones for personal care products, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America has recently developed a new generation of cosmetic silicone system products that collectively, and independently, offer formulators distinct characteristics that deliver key stability, functionality and sensory advantages based on their application for a wide variety of cosmetic products, according to the company. The system is comprised of KSG-360Z silicone gel emulsifier, KSP-441 hybrid silicone powder and DMF-2 high purity, low residual dimethicone fluid. Each product in the system also provides an effective, quality alternative to D5 siloxanes and D5 derivative materials. Whereas the collective products in the system work well together−each product offers independent performance property and sensory benefits, including: KSG-360Z: This series’crosslinked elastomer silicone gels are emulsifying agents with an excellent, smooth-skin feel that can be used to produce unique water-in110 • happi

silicone and water-in-oil products. The products are viscous gels utilizing dimethicone, volatile silicone or isododecane as the diluent. They function as unique emulsifiers with broad compatibility. KSP-441: Specifically developed for achieving high absorption of organic oils, the KSP-441 is a unique hybrid silicone powder consisting of a silicone rubber core with a silicone resin shell.This unique combination offers both the flexibility of silicone rubber and the lubricity of silicone resin. DMF-2: Designed specifically to provide cosmetic formulators with an effective, quality alternative to D5 siloxanes and D5 derivative materials, Shin-Etsu’s DM-Fluid2cs (DMF-2) is a high purity, low residual dimethicone fluid. It delivers an enhanced sensory cosmetic solution for many applications, according to the company. For more detailed information on KSG360Z/KSP-441/DMF-2, contact: [email protected]

Silicone Technology Helps Save Water • A new silicone technology for laundry fabric softeners can reduce the amount of water by half that it takes to rinse away remaining detergent in fabric. When used in rinse cycle fabric softeners, Dow Corning AC-8066 Antifoam substantially reduces or eliminates foam after the first rinse, while making the rinsing process more convenient and faster for the consumer. The silicone-based Dow Corning AC 8066 Antifoam dispersion destabilizes and collapses the bubbles that cause the foam generated during the rinse process when hand washing or in semi-automatic machines. This can help reduce the amount of time and water needed to rinse the fabric of remaining detergent. “Availability of fresh water is a global growing concern, particularly in developing countries, where laundry is a daily, waterintensive activity,” said Dow Corning happi.com

Household Care global marketing manager Yan Cortes, about the technology. More info: www.dowcorning.com

A New Addition to Croda’s Solaveil SpeXtra Range • Croda is launching a new water-based variant to its Solaveil SpeXtra range of titanium dioxide (TiO2) dispersions. Like other products in the range, Solaveil XT-40W offers unprecedented broad-spectrum UV protection, according to the company. This enables the formulator to make globallyapproved, high SPF sunscreen products that conform to EU guidelines for UVA protection (UVAPF at least 1/3 of SPF), using this single active ingredient. Solaveil XT-40W’s aqueous base delivers formulation flexibility and the freedom to formulate light and spreadable o/w emulsions. With TiO2 in the water phase of the emulsion, Solaveil XT-40W is also ideal for organic sunscreens. Its natural composition and Ecocert validation ensures its credibility for use in green formulations. Solaveil XT-40W uses the novel Solaveil SpeXtra technology, which won The Best New Technology Award at In-Cosmetics. More info: www.croda.com

Independent Chemical Corporation Introduces Variety Of New Products •Independent Chemical Corporation of Glendale, NY recently rolled out an assortment of new ingredients. The products were placed on behalf of Vevy Europe, according to the company. Keresine is ideal for skin care emulsions, gels, face and neck preparation as well as night treatments. Its INCI is Prunus avium (cherry) extract with suggested use levels of 2-5%. A natural source of malic acid to provide mild exfoliation, this ingredient improves the skin’s moisture and reduces fine wrinkles, according to the company. It is globally September 2011

Supplier’s Corner

approved. Trioxene LV significantly decreases lipid peroxides, said the company. Its INCI is isodecyl citrate with suggested use levels of 2-70%. Applications include as an active in skin care emulsions or lipidic systems, antiaging that inhibits the oxidative breakdown of biomembrane polyunsaturated fatty acids and free radicals scavenger. As an excipient, it is easily incorporated in formulations for topical use as a substitute of oleochemicals with film-forming capacity that confers emolliency and helps in preventing skin dehydration. Salycuminol is aVevy patented conjugate from the natural extracts of wintergreen, cumin, caraway and sweet birch. Its INCI is isobenzylsalicylate and isodecylsalicylate with a suggested use level of 0.3-1.3%. It is a topical non-systemic anti-inflammatory with anti-lipoperoxidant and keratoplastic activity at the epidermal level. Salycuminol is soluble in lipidic systems. Isostearene is a liquid ester for use in all types of cosmetics, including o/w and w/o emulsions as a replacement for the common isopropylic esters to reduce irritation while maintaining a smooth and luxurious feel. Its INCI is isodecyl laurate with a suggested use level of 3-30%. According to the company, the isodecyl chain maintains excellent stability in the skin as compared to the light isopropylic esters which break down into irritant radicals. More info: www.independentchemical.com

involved in the mechanism of cutaneous hydration, exerting a plastic-structural role for the skin, whereas alpha linolenic acid has a major anti-inflammatory component. The naturalness of Omegablue, its uniqueness in terms of fatty acids compo-

sition, its restructuring functions on skin and hair and a pleasant sensorial feel qualify Omegablue as an innovative cosmetic active ingredient for skin and hair care. More info: [email protected], www.indena.com •

Skin Care Ingredient News From Indena •Indena rolled out Xilogel, a tamarind polysaccaryde extremely well characterized with a molecular weight of 650.000D. Having a structure similar to hyaluronic acid and the capacity to complex water, it is the ideal candidate for deep hydration products, according to the company. Another newly presented product is Omegablue, a bilberry seed oil obtained by clean CO2 extraction from the small bilberry seeds. The total fatty acids content is over 80%, having a unique balanced ratio of polyunsaturated omega-6/omega-3 fatty acids. The major components are linoleic and alpha linolenic acid. Linoleic acid is September 2011

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SCC News

NYSCC TO HOST PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT SYMPOSIUM • The NYSCC has scheduled its Professional Development Symposium for Oct. 19 at Montclair State University, Upper Montclair, NJ. Featuring top instructors from professional development organizations the American Management Association (AMA) and the American Chemical Society (ACS), there are four 90-minute sessions from a list of eight possible courses. Course options include: • Delivering Effective Technical Presentations • Creativity and Innovation • Effective Supervision of Technologist • Influencing for Results • Communicating Up, Down, and Across the Org • Effective Technical Writing • Project Management for Technologist • Time Management Centrally located on Montclair State’s campus in northeastern New Jersey, the Conference Center in University Hall is less than 15 miles from New York City and Newark International Airport. On campus SCC Meetings Sept. 13: Midwest Chapter Scientific Dinner and Education Meeting. More info: www.midwestscc.org Sept. 14: New York Chapter Monthly Meeting, Pleasantdale Chateau, West Orange, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org Sept. 14: SCC Continuing Education, “Botanicals and Naturals for the Naturals Market,”Sheraton Newark Airport Hotel, Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org Sept. 15-17: Florida Chapter 2011 Sunscreen Symposium, DisneyYacht & Beach Club, Orlando, FL. More info: www.flscc.org Sept. 15: Southwest Chapter Meeting. More info: www.scscc.org Sept. 20: Twin Cities Chapter Continuing 112 • happi

parking is included in the registration fee. Direct train access is available from Penn Station to campus via NJ transit (MontclairBoonton line, Montclair Heights stop). Plus, dozens of hotels are within 10 miles of campus, according to SCC. Registration and continental breakfast begins at 8 am. More info: www.nyscc.org/files/PDS_ Educational_Providers_Info.pdf

IFSCC Conference Set For Oct. 31-Nov 2 • The 21st IFSCC Conference will be held Oct. 31-Nov 2 in Bangkok, Thailand. The theme of the event is “3E: Effective, Economic & Ecological Cosmetics.” Keynote speakers include: Dr. Chika Katagiri, senior research scientist, Shiseido Co. Ltd., Japan; Dominique Moyal, international expert in photoprotection at L’Oréal; Prof. Dr. Rolf G. Werner, corporate senior vice president, Boehringer Ingelheim GmbH, Ingelheim, Germany; Maj. Gen. Krisada Duangurai, M.D., PhramongkutkEducation Course,“Advanced Emulsions,” Comfort Inn Airport, Bloomington, MN. More info: www.tccscc.org Sept. 22: NYSCC Culinary Event. More info: www.nyscc.org Sept. 22: Ontario Chapter Education Day, The Venetian,Vaughn, ON. More info: www.ontarioscc.org Sept. 27: Carolina Chapter/Mid Atlantic Chapter Joint Event,“Anti-Wrinkle and Hyperpigmentation,”by Dr. Zoe Draelos, High Point, NC. More info: www.carolinascc.org Oct. 4: SCC Continuing Education Course,“Cosmetic Raw Materials,”Sheraton Newark Airport Hotel, Newark, NJ. More info: www.scconline.org Oct. 5: NewYork Chapter Monthly Meeting, The Valley Regency, Clifton, NJ. More info: www.nyscc.org happi.com

lao Hospital and College of Medicine,Thailand; Dr. Masahiko Abe, dean of Graduate School of Science and Technology, Tokyo University of Science, Japan; Dr. L. Gilbert, international open research director, L’Oréal, France; and Dr. R. Randall Wickett, University of Cincinnati, OH (SCC USA). In addition to the main conference, there are two pre-conference workshops scheduled. The themes are“Patent Fundamentals and Strategies for Personal Care” and“Skin Whitening.”Both will be held on Oct. 31, according to IFSCC. More info: www.ifscc2011.com

SCC Officer Voting Begins this Month • SCC opens its officer voting period this month, and is encouraging members to participate as it provides an opportunity to have input on the governing body of the Society. The following people are candidates for office the SCC: Dawn Burke Colvin and Nick Morante (vice president elect); Dawn Glaser and Debbie Pierce (secretary); Joseph Albanese and Alison Griffin (director, Area I); and Lisa Jones and John Oliver (director, Area III). Ballots will be mailed on Oct. 15 and are due back on Nov. 15. More info: www.scc.org SCC Membership By The Numbers •

According to the SCC, 276 newly elected members and affiliates were added to the Society’s ranks between Jan. 1 and May 31, 2011. As of May 31, the SCC had a total membership and affiliation of 4,168 (3,199 general members, 598 national affiliates 272 emeritus members, three honorary members, 37 retired members, 55 student members and four junior members). Membership is up 2% over 2010, according to SCC. • September 2011

Personnel Roundup

PERSONNEL APPOINTMENTS AT LIPO CHEMICALS ecutive officer. He brings more than 15 years of industry experience to the role, formerly held by Toni Ko, who will transition to founder and chief creative director. Prior to joining NYX, Friedman was CEO of Allegro Mfg, Inc., an international manufacturer and marketer of cosmetics, organizers, electronics and accessory bags, which was sold to Conair in 2007. Swid

Richards

Tang

•Lipo Chemicals, Inc.: promoted Lukas Swid to managing director, Asia Pacific and Steven Richards to director of sales, North America. Diana Tang, general manager China–Asia Pacific, will report to Swid. Swid will have full P&L responsibility for the Asia Pacific region including the India subcontinent. Richards will be responsible for all sales activities in the US and Canada.

• Kal’Idees S.A.S.: independent consult-

Lintner

ant Karl Lintner, PhD, was appointed associate professor at the University of Versailles-Saint Quentin, France. For the next three years he will be teaching various subjects of cosmetic chemistry at both undergraduate and master level, including an international Master Class EFCM (European Fragrance and Cosmetics Master).

•DKSH: appointed Cesar Saez global head of its personal care industry business line. He brings more than 10 years of experience in the specialty chemicals industry. Before joining DKSH, he worked for Clariant, where he held various management assignments in Switzerland, Mexico and Venezuela. Most recently, he was based at Clariant’s headquarters in Muttenz, SwitzerSaez land, where he was head of sales and applications industrial and home care, in charge of the EMEA region. •Kim Vo Enterprises: named Kevin Barrett president. He had been vice president of Fromm International for more than 21 years. In his new capacity, he will continue as an executive of Fromm with focus on KimVo Enterprises (KVE). Fromm acquired an ownership stake in KVE last spring.

•NYX Professional Makeup: appointed Scott Friedman chief ex114 • happi

•The Estée Lauder Companies Inc.: will welcome Carl Haney as executive vice president, global research and development, corporate product innovation, package development, beginning Jan. 1, 2012. Harvey Gedeon, who is currently in the role, announced his intention to retire after a decade of success with the company. Haney will join the Estée Lauder Companies following a more than 20-year career at The Procter & Gamble Company (P&G). Most recently he was vice president, R&D, male grooming, Gillette, Braun and devices, leading teams in all aspects of innovation, including product, packaging, process development and engineering. He started his career at P&G and over the years held numerous leadership positions in locations around the world. •Cutler Salons: added Michael Gordon as partner to work alongside founder Rodney Cutler to develop and grow the business, according to the company. Gordon is best known for creating Bumble and bumble, which opened its NYC salon doors in 1977, launched its first products in 1992 and introduced Bumble and bumble University in 2004—all with Gordon as president, chief executive and principal imagemaker. After selling the company to Estée Lauder in 2006, he devoted much of his time to creating“Vidal Sassoon The Movie,”which premiered at the Tribeca Film Festival and was released nationally in theaters in 2011. •Drom Fragrances USA: welcomed three new members to the team, according to the company. Doug Boissonault joined Drom as an account manager, bringing a wealth of experience across all market segments to his new position. He will be located in Drom’s Towaco, NJ facility. Samantha Cruz joined Drom as fragrance development manager for personal care, home care and fine fragrance accounts. She is working out of the Drom Fragrance Design Studio in Tribeca, NewYork City. Lionel Nesbit joined Drom as a technical perfumer in the analytical department. He will also be working out of Drom’s Towaco, NJ facility.

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September 2011

Personnel Roundup

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American Cleaning Institute (ACI) Board of Directors: named executives from AkzoNobel and Clorox as the newest members of its board. Robert Margevich, president and managing director of AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry; and Benno Dorer, senior vice president–cleaning division and Canada,The Clorox Company; were elected. They are filling out the terms of former Directors Frank Sherman, AkzoNobel, and Larry Peiros, Clorox, which run through January 2012.

to join the company’s board of directors. He will be filling a vacancy created by the departure of Padraic Spence. Kanter was the executive vice president and chief financial officer of Westwood One, Inc. (WWON), a public company operating as the leading radio program syndicator from December 1991 to February 1994. Before that, he was the senior vice president and chief financial officer of Neutrogena Corporation. Since retiring in 1994, Kanter has been active on several boards.

• Spectra Colors: appointed Alexis Capik marketing manager for

• Reckitt Benckiser Group Plc. (RB): appointed Richard Joyce as

its new marketing department. She reports to Luis Marrero and will work closely with the sales team. Capik has responsibility for increasing Spectra Colors’ market presence and brand recognition throughout the industry. Her background in international business will allow her to bring her knowledge of marketing and global consciousness to this position. She has worked on a number of different marketing projects such as the website, brochures, trade show wall and Spectrawear. Additionally, she has knowledge of the current trends in social media and corporate blogging, according to the company.

the new RB investor relations director. In this role, he will report to Liz Doherty, chief financial officer. To facilitate Joyce’s transition into his new role, Tom Corran, who retired from the RB investor relations role in 2008, will be returning to RB as a part-time consultant for a year. According to the company, Joyce is well qualified to take on this new role, as he is currently director financial reporting for the group, a role he has held for three years. Previously, he was finance director RB Nordic region; prior to that, senior manager internal audit at RB. He joined RB in 2002 from PriceWaterhouse Coopers where he worked in both the Sydney, Australia and London, UK offices.•

• Physicians Formula Holdings, Inc.: appointed Bruce Kanter

September 2011

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Industry News

CRODA DEDICATES SOLAR ENERGY SYSTEM IN EDISON

An aerial view of Croda’s Edison, NJ site shows its new 305-kilowatt solar energy system.

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Croda Inc recently dedicated a new 305-kilowatt solar energy system, marking its latest commitment to sustainable energy sources. With the dedication of the technology at its Edison, NJ site, more than 50% of the facility’s power now comes from the sun, according to the company. According to Croda’s calculations, its photovoltaic technology system provides the environmental equivalent of planting 52 acres of trees; powering 42 homes; turning off 1,946 60-watt light bulbs for eight hours a day each year; removing 47 cars from service; and saving more than 27,500 gallons of gasoline. The move is just the latest sustainable initiative from Croda. For example at the company’s manufacturing facility in Hull, UK, a wind turbine provides power. “Croda is committed to being a responsible and ethical organization, and we have a global goal of obtaining 25% of our energy from non-fossil sources by the end of 2015,”commented Kevin Gallagher, president, Croda Inc.“Another important quality 116 • happi

that most of our customers associate with Croda is innovation. In many ways, this solar power generation project combines our commitment to sustainability with our commitment to innovation and shows that innovation goes beyond product innovation alone. Our customers need ingredient suppliers who share their values and their commitment to sustainability and innovation in all its forms.”

Intelligent Nutrients Gets High Marks from Organic Monitor • Intelligent Nutrients—the certified organic health and beauty brand created by Aveda founder Horst Rechelbacher—recently received high marks in a brand assessment by Organic Monitor. Organic Monitor assessed more than 50 international brands of natural cosmetic products and ranked them in terms of their naturalness. Intelligent Nutrients scored the highest rating—9.5 out of a maximum 10, according to Judi Beerling, technical research manager happi.com

at Organic Monitor. “The brand was close to maximum rating because its products use a high level of certified organic (mostly food grade) ingredients, and most are certified by recognized agencies,”she said. The brand assessment study, billed as the first of its kind by Organic Monitor, involved a chartered chemist examining the ingredient composition of cosmetic products and classifying formulations according to their ‘level of naturalness.’ Certified organic cosmetics received the highest rating (9-10), pure natural cosmetics were given 5-7 ratings, naturally inspired cosmetics were given a 2 rating, while conventional cosmetics got a 1 rating. “This recognition from Organic Monitor is tremendous,”said Rechelbacher.“Not only does it reinforce the need for transparency in the organic beauty industry but it also affirms what we are trying to do as a brand, which is educate the consumer that everything we put in and on our bodies must be nutritious and safe.” Other brands that received high naturalness were Green People and Living Nature. New brands launched by large multinationals also scored high in terms of their natural and organic formulations—Garnier Bio Active (L’Oréal), Diadermine Bio Expertise (Henkel) and Johnson’s Natural (Johnson & Johnson).

Takasago Invests in New Singapore Facility •

Takasago International (Singapore) Pte. Ltd., the regional subsidiary of publicly listed Takasago International Corp., is making a significant investment in a new Singapore facility as part of its regional expansion strategy.This investment will result in a 35% increase in research and technology headcount in its core flavors and fragrance business while almost tripling the company’s manufacturing and R&D space. The goal is to promote the Singapore operation into a key creation, application, September 2011

Industry News

sensory, R&D and manufacturing location for the region. The facility, which will start operations in the first half of 2013, will scale up the value chain by developing new flavor and fragrance products as well as applications for the Asian giant’s emerging markets. The new location, with a total floor area of 22,000 square meters, is double the space compared to the current combined sites at Pandan Loop and Penjuru Close. The floor space for the new R&D facility will increase by three times to house the new hires as well as cover the expanded responsibilities being undertaken in Singapore.

Kemin Expands Distribution With Essential Ingredients • Kemin has selected Essential Ingredients to sell and distribute its natural personal care ingredients in the Midwestern and Eastern regions of the US. “Our decision was based on our joint commitment to provide innovative products with superior customer service and common value of integrity,”said Kerty Levy, president of Kemin’s personal care division. “We are committed to understanding how our products work at the molecular level and are confident the Essential Ingredients team has the experience and technical expertise to understand our technology and convey to their customers how Kemin ingredients will work in their products.” The expanded distribution will make Kemin ingredients more accessible to personal care product manufacturers looking for natural ingredients, according to the company. Essential Ingredients, a wellknown distributor in the personal care industry, has sales representatives throughout the Midwestern and Eastern US that will support the distribution of Kemin’s FloraGLO Lutein Topical, Rosamox and Lysofix products. Chris Gerlach, director of business development, Essential Ingredients, said, “This is a unique opportunity for us to expand our library of natural product offerings. We were particularly impressed with the technology involved in Kemin’s product development process and their underSeptember 2011

standing of how each product works in various applications. All of us at Essential Ingredients are excited about representing Kemin’s natural, plant-based ingredients in the personal care industry.” More info: www.kemin.com/personalcare, www.essentialingredients.com

WFFC To Honor Coke Exec At Sept. 22 Open Dinner • Mary M.G. Riddle, vice president, The Coca-Cola Company, will be honored at the 29th WFFC Open Dinner on September 22, 2011, at the Westmount Country Club in West Paterson, NJ. As director, flavor ingredient supply for The Coca-Cola Company, Riddle manages the supply chain of ingredients used in the production of Coca-Cola products worldwide. She joined the company in 1970 shortly after graduating fromVirginia Commonwealth University. Rising through the ranks, she was appointed to assistant vice president in 1992. In 1998, she was elected vice president by the board. More info:www.wffc.org or [email protected]

Nearly 25,000 Attend Cosmoprof North America •

What happens in Vegas just might have a big impact on the US personal care industry. Cosmoprof North America, which was held July 31-Aug. 2 at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center, enabled nearly 25,000 attendees to connect, experience new products and conduct significant business meetings with more than 760 exhibitors. As in years past, Cosmoprof North America attracted many new and innovative brands in addition to industry leaders such as Ahava, Conair, CND, Essie/L’Oréal Professional, Maletti, Moroccan Oil, OPI Nail, Orly, Rusk, Sportarredo, TIGI and Zotos International. Four students from the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) 2011 B.S. graduating class participated in this year’s Trend Scout Program. Granted unrestricted access to the show floor, the Trend Scouts toured the show and spoke with exhibitors to discover new product launches. They reported their happi.com

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findings via Twitter and Facebook posts in real-time at the main entrance of the show floor, helping attendees identify the current trends. Staying connected during Cosmoprof was made easier by utilizing Foursquare. Prior to and during the event, attendees and exhibitors shared where they were on the show floor and took advantage of show specials, which were only available to users by“checking in”on their phones or handheld devices. In addition, One-2-One Beauty Matchmaking software facilitated one-on-one introductions between manufacturers and distributors; more than 900 appointments were generated and accepted as requested by buyers. Cosmoprof North America Country Pavilions allowed small- and mediumsized companies from select markets to participate in the event with the objective of obtaining direct“face time”with distributors and retailers to secure U.S. distribution. Featured countries at the 2011 show included Argentina, Brazil, China, Italy, South Korea and Taiwan. The International Buyer Program, sponsored once again by UNIPRO, continued to unite buyers and sellers around the world

with the resources, contacts, and data to build business partnerships. Returning to the show for the ninth year, beauty and cosmetic companies showcased their products and were offered the opportunity to have pre-scheduled appointments with a group of selected importers and distributors. Overall, 560 meetings were held as part of the International Buyer Program involving more than 200 exhibiting companies and 134 qualified international buyers. The international buyers were invited from Argentina, Australia, Benin, Canada, Congo, Guinea, Japan, Mauritania, Mexico, Peru, Senegal Uganda and Uruguay. Discover Beauty assists emerging brands in finding the proper market and highlights the newest trends. The one-onone meetings between prestigious retailers such as Bergdorf Goodman, C.O. Bigelow, Cosbar, Duane Reade, Henri Bendel, HSN, Nordstrom, Skins 6|2 and Zappos, aimed to give Discover Beauty brands critiques and feedback. Snowberry from New Zealand edged out 16 brands to win the 2011 Discover Beauty Award. The North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA), was also held in conjunction with Cosmoprof North Amer-

Cosmoprof North America drew more nearly 25,000 attendees, according to show organizers.

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ica. Taking place on July 31, it was attended by a record number of 2,800 guests. Special education seminars were filled to capacity with more than 1,100 attendees. Cosmoprof North America 2012 will take place July 22-24 at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas. More info: www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

Unipex Acquires Lucas Meyer Cosmetics • Unipex, a supplier of active ingredients for the cosmetics industry, has acquired Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, a supplier of natural cosmetic functional ingredients, delivery systems and active ingredients. This acquisition will expand the strategic portfolio of Unipex’s product line, and aligns perfectly with its corporate vision that focuses on innovations and client satisfaction, according to the company. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, headquartered in the Paris region, employs 20 people and is recognized as a leading reference for phospholipids. More info: www.unipex.com

long-term agreement to co-produce conferences and seminars devoted to surfactants. The conferences and seminars will be held globally in North America, South America, Europe, the Middle East and Asia. The first event as part of this agreement will be the First ICIS Asian Surfactant Conference to be held at the Intercontinental Hotel, Singapore on Nov. 10 and 11, 2011. Further information and registration is available at www.icis.com/asiansurfactants. The agreement follows the two companies’ successful collaboration on the First ICIS World Surfactant Conference in New York in May 2011. The conference attracted over 150 senior managers from the surfactant industry with attendees and speakers representing companies such as Akzo, BASF, Church & Dwight, Colgate, Croda, Dow, Ecolab, Johnson & Johnson, Kao, LG,

PQ, P&G, Reckitt Benckiser, Rhodia, SC Johnson, Stepan and many others. RBI, via its ICIS subsidiary, organizes conferences and training courses globally in many chemical areas including petrochemicals, oleochemicals, and base-oils. The company notes that the agreement with Neil A. Burns LLC enables it to expand conference activities into a new key market with significant global potential. Neil Burns, whose company Neil A Burns LLC has an existing business providing advisory and investment services in specialty chemicals with a particular focus on the surfactant value chain, will play a key role at the surfactant events as chair and/or speaker. Regarding the upcoming Asian conference, he said,“Due to the success of the first ICIS World Surfactant Conference in New York, earlier this year, we have been asked by many industry players

Atlantic Coast Media Group Acquires Miracle Skin Transformer • Atlantic Coast Media Group (ACMG), the company behind Hydroxatone, has acquired Sarah McNamara’s Miracle Skin Transformer. Miracle Skin Transformer joins the beauty firm’s established brands which also includes Keranique, Luminique and DNA. Sarah McNamara will operate as a new division at ACMG that will house the Miracle Skin Transformer line, launching into Sephora next month. ACMG is one of the largest television and radio advertisers in the US with annual revenue of $200 million. Its flagship skin care brand, Hydroxatone, launched in Macy’s stores earlier this month.

Surfactant Conferences And Seminars Planned • Reed Business Information Ltd. (RBI) and Neil A. Burns LLC have entered into a September 2011

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to bring the conference to Asia. We are excited to be holding this event in the middle of the fastest growing, most dynamic surfactant market in the world today.” More info: www.neilaburns.com

Desert King is ISO 9001:2008 Certified • Desert King International, San Diego, CA, is now ISO 9001:2008 certified.To earn the certification, Desert King International underwent a six-month evaluation process that included a quality management system development, a management system documentation review, pre-audits, and an initial assessment, all of which help to identify non-conformances and elaborate appropriate corrective actions in order to meet the quality management standard. “We believe that our decision to become ISO 9001 certified is a proactive one that not only anticipates the demands of our clients, but also demonstrates our commitment to providing quality services to all whom we serve,” the company said in a press statement. More info: www.desertking.com

Bio-Polymer Alcoguard H 5240 Earns DfE Certification •AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry’s Alcoguard H 5240 hybrid water-soluble biopolymer has been granted Design for Environment (DfE) certification by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). It was reviewed against the DfE Master Criteria for Safer Ingredients as a polymeric scale control agent for use in automatic dishwasher (ADW) and laundry detergents, and is recommended for use in products recognized by the U.S. EPA DfE Formulator Program. Alcoguard H 5240 is produced using hybrid technology developed by AkzoNobel that combines natural (plant-based) materials—selected polysaccharides—with petrochemical materials—synthetic monomers— and is based on over 60% renewable resources. The full and rapid biodegradability of the polysaccharides contained in Alcoguard H 5240 makes it an environmentally friendly alternative (with a significantly 120 • happi

lower carbon footprint) to traditional synthetic polymers. In addition, its proprietary hybrid technology was nominated by the U.S. EPA for “P2” (pollution prevention) recognition. Alcoguard H 5240 hybrid bio-polymer is designed to prevent scale formation in ADW and laundry detergents and other applications where synthetic polymers (polyacrylates) are typically used. Its filming/spotting reduction capability has been demonstrated through performance testing conducted by AkzoNobel to be equal or superior to that of polyacrylates typically used in ADW applications. AkzoNobel’s hybrid bio-polymer is particularly effective at minimizing filming and spotting in zero-phosphate dishwashing detergent formulations. In addition, when tested against polyacrylates currently used in laundry detergent applications, Alcoguard H 5240 has been found to provide equal anti-redeposition, dispersancy, anti-encrustation and detergency, according to the company. More info: [email protected].

Fragrance Foundation Forms Indie Committee • The Fragrance Foundation has formed a specialized committee dedicated to developing the recognition, understanding and appreciation of independent fragrance brands and their creators. The “Indie” Fragrance Committee mission statement and purpose is to support the excellence, talent and artistry of indie perfumes, celebrate their individuality and craftsmanship, give a voice to the indie brands, and address any issues and concerns that are important to the group as a whole. “While niche fragrances have always been recognized at the annual FiFi Awards,” explains Rochelle Bloom, president of The Fragrance Foundation,“we are keen to find a way to encourage more niche/independent submissions, reaching out to the smaller, successful, entrepreneurial brands not supported by a large company.“ An indie brand is defined by the Fragrance Foundation as a brand that has been on the market for at least two years and is distributed in one to 25 doors. happi.com

The indie committee members are Mandy Aftel (Aftelier Perfumes), Arnaud Adrian (Robertet), Bloom (The Fragrance Foundation), Frederick Bouchardy (Joya Studio), Karl Bradl (Aedes deVenustas),Virginia Bonofiglio (Fashion Institute of Technology), Denise Capozzalo (Barneys), Victoria Frilova (Bois de Jasmin), Mary Ellen Lapsansky (The Fragrance Foundation), Carrie Meredith (Eyeliner on a Cat) and Ralf Sweiger (Mane). More info: www.fragrance.org

Dow Microbial Control Relaunches Website • Dow Microbial Control has launched a newly redesigned website, dowmicrobialcontrol.com, which provides advanced functionality across a global scale and highlights local resources. Granting site visitors convenient and quick access to products, experts and facilities specific to their needs enables the second-generation site to deliver comprehensive information and local expertise to users based on their interests and geographic location, according to the company. The site is also available in Chinese, Spanish and Portuguese, while local support from Customer Application Centers across the globe is easily accessible on the home page. More info: dowmicrobialcontrol.com

Method, The Book • “The Method Method: Seven Obsessions That Helped Our Scrappy Start-Up Turn an Industry Upside-Down” is a new book that chronicles the company’s rise from its humble beginnings.

NARB Allows Appeal of NAD Decision in Transfair, Avon Cases • The National Advertising Review Board has agreed to allow Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soaps to appeal a recent decision of the National Advertising Division (NAD) in a case related to fair-trade certifications. NARB, the appellate unit of the advertising industry’s system of self-regulation, is an advertising industry peer group from September 2011

Industry News

which ad-hoc panels are selected to adjudicate NAD cases that are not resolved at the NAD level. Dr. Bronner’s Magic Soaps had challenged the truthfulness and accuracy of TransFair USA’s licensed use of its “Fair Trade Certified,”“Fair Trade Certified Ingredients.” Dr. Bronner’s also challenged the “Fair Trade Certified Ingredient-Specific” seal for Avon Products, Inc.’ s Mark product line. The issue before NAD was the message conveyed by the use of the“Fair Trade Certified Ingredients”and“Fair Trade Certified Ingredient-Specific”seals on cosmetic and personal care products. NAD recommended in June that TransFair not only explain the plain meaning of fair trade, but inform consumers that the personal care industry is subject to a separate TransFair policy, which only requires 25% fair trade ingredients in order to display

one of the two composite product seals. Separately, NAD recommended that Avon modify advertising to assure that images used in connection with a fair-trade seal do not overstate the benefits associated with purchasing Avon Mark personal care products that contain certified fairtrade ingredients. Under NARB rules, an advertiser has the automatic right to appeal an NAD decision, but a challenger may appeal NAD finding only if the appeal is approved by the NARB chairman.

SC Johnson Lauded By Working Mother •

SC Johnson has been named to the first-ever Working Mother“Best Companies for Kids” list. The evaluation considered more than 225 selected questions from the 2010 Working Mother “100 Best Companies” application and ultimately chose 10

companies that believe in offering a wide array of family-friendly programs such as child care and scholarships. “For 125 years, SC Johnson has been proud to call ourselves a family company. That means we care about the families who use our products as well as the families who are a part of making them,”said Pascale Meyran, SVP, global human resources, SC Johnson.“As part of that commitment, we provide people—including working moms and dads— with the support that we believe is essential to enabling them to excel both at home and at work.” The evaluation measured and scored seven areas: workforce profile, compensation, child care, flexibility, time off and leaves, family-friendly programs and company culture. It also checked the usage, availability and tracking of programs, as well as the accountability of managers who oversee them. •

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Advertising Index

Advertiser

Page No.

Telephone

Website

ABA Packaging Corp...........................................89 ......................800-443-9799 ................................www.abapackaging.com Ajinomoto............................................................15 ......................201-292-3180 ..........................................www.ajichem.com Akzo Nobel ........................................................81 ......................312-906-7500 ........................www.surface.akzonobel.com Alnor Oil ..............................................................84 ......................516-561-6146 ..........................................www.alnoroil.com Arizona Chemical ..............................................53 ......................800-733-1374............................www.arizonachemical.com BASF ....................................................................79 ......................800-880-5768 ........................www.personal-care.basf.com BASF Beauty Care Solutions France..................25 ..................(33) 3 83 29 97 92 ..................................www.labserobio.com BASF Europe........................................................13 ....................800-2273-4444 ......................www.personal-care.basf.com Bayer Inc. ............................................................43 ......................412-777-2000..............................www.bayercosmetics.com Berjé......................................................................65 ......................973-748-8980 ..........................................www.berjeinc.com BioScreen Testing Services ................................49 ......................800-229-9057 ......................................www.bioscreen.com Brenntag North America ....................................18 ......................800-732-0562 ......................www.brenntagspecialties.com Caribbean Natural Products Inc. ......................56 ......................973-882-5115 ....................www.caribnaturalproducts.com Centerchem, Inc. ............................................Cover 4..................203-822-9800....................................www.centerchem.com Chattem Chemicals, Inc. ....................................7 ......................423-822-5001 ......................................www.hamposyl.com Chemsil ................................................................41 ......................877-700-0302 ..........................................www.chemsil.com Clinical Research Labs........................................57 ......................732-981-1616 ............................................www.crl-inc.com Coast Southwest ................................................10 ......................800-621-0500 ............................www.coastsouthwest.com Consumer Product Testing, Inc. ........................23 ......................973-808-7111 ..........................................www.cptclabs.com Covalence ............................................................32 ......................480-897-0551......................................www.CoValence.com CPL Aromas ......................................................60 ......................732-868-8330 ......................................www.cplaromas.com Croda Inc. ............................................................76 ......................732-417-0800 ........................................www.crodausa.com Dr. Straetmans....................................................117 ..............+49 (0)40 - 669 356-0 ............................www.dr-straetmans.de DS Containers ....................................................91 ......................630-406-9600 ..................................www.dscontainers.com DSM Nutritional Products, Inc. ........................51 ......................800-526-0189..........www.unlimitednutrition-na.dsm.com Ei A Pharmaceutical Solutionworks ......99, 101, 103, 105 ..........704-939-4329 ............................www.eisolutionworks.com EMD Chemicals Inc. (Rona-Cosmetic Business Unit) ................................................................................................................ ..............................................................................83 ......................800-222-0342 ..............................www.emdchemicals.com Emery Oleochemicals ........................................45 ....................................................................................www.emeryoleo.com Evonik Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. ................5 ......................804-541-8658....................www.evonik.com/personal-care Extracts & Ingredients/Morre-Tec Ind. ............118 ....................908-688-9009 ........................................www.morretec.com Grant Industries, Inc. ..........................................3 ......................201-791-8700..........................................www.grantinc.com HallStar ................................................................37 ......................908-852-6128 ..........................................www.hallstar.com Harrison Research Labs, Inc. ............................82 ......................908-688-7600 ................................................www.hrlabs.us In-Cosmetics/Reed ............................................109....................44 20 8910 7959 ................................www.in-cosmetics.com 128 • happi

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September 2011

Advertising Index

Advertiser

Page No.

Telephone

Website

Independent Chemical Corporation ................121 ....................718-894-0700 ..................www.independentchemical.com Innospec ..............................................................71 ......................732-321-3500 ..................................www.innospecinc.com InVitro International ..........................................39 ......................800-246-8487 ......................................www.invitrointl.com Jeen International................................................31......................800-771-JEEN ................................................www.jeen.com Jungbunzlauer ....................................................29 ......................617-969-0900 ..............................www.jungbunzlauer.com Label Technology ................................................97 ......................800-388-1990 ........................................www.labeltech.com Lincoln Fine Ingredients ..................................121 ....................401-722-2410 ..................www.lincolnfineingredients.com Lipo Chemicals ................................................26, 27 ..................973-345-8600 ................................www.lipochemicals.com Lubrizol/Noveon® Consumer Specialties........68 ......................800-379-5389 ....................www.personalcare.noveon.com Luxe Pack Monaco ............................................106 ....................212-274-8508 ........................................www.luxepack.com Madeline Blondman & Co. Inc. ........................92 ......................516-466-2400 ......................www.madelineblondman.com McKernan Packaging Clearing House ..............87 ......................800-561-0236 ......................................www.mckernan.com Mibelle AG Biochemistry....................................97 ................+41 (0) 62 836 13 45................www.mibellebiochemistry.com Multiceras ............................................................33 ......................973-536-0547 ......................................www.multiceras.com Natural Plant Products ......................................35 ......................503-363-6402 ................................www.meadowfoam.com Nexeo Solutions, LLC (formerly Ashland) ......21 ......................800-531-7106 ..............................www.nexeosolutions.com NYSCC Technology Transfer Conference ........115 ............................................................................www.nyscc.org/cttc/html Pilot Chemical Co. ............................................73 ......................800-707-4568 ................................www.pilotchemical.com Presperse LLC ....................................................48 ......................732-356-5200 ......................................www.presperse.com ProSys Filling Machinery....................................36 ......................800-231-3455 ........................................www.prosysfill.com Purac America Inc. ..............................................11 ......................888-899-8166 ..............................................www.purac.com Rhodia ..................................................................9 ......................800-922-2189............................www.rhodia-novecare.com RITA Corporation ..........................................Cover 2..................800-426-7759 ..........................................www.ritacorp.com Sea-Land Chemical Co. ....................................20 ......................440-871-7887 ................................www.sealandchem.com Sederma/Croda ..................................................17 ......................732-692-1652..............................................www.sederma.fr Shaath & Meadows Consultation ....................66 ......................914-645-3426 ..........................www.ShaathMeadows.com Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc. ................85 ......................330-630-9860 ..........................www.shinetsusilicones.com Solar Light Co. ....................................................54 ......................215-517-8700........................................www.solarlight.com Spectra Colors Corp...........................................111 ....................800-527-8588................................www.SpectraColors.com Supply Side West ................................................59 ......................800-454-5760 ............................www.supplysideshow.com TricorBraun ..........................................................95 ......................800-325-7782 ....................................www.tricorbraun.com Trilogy Fragrances, Inc. ......................................63 ......................732-922-2520 ..........................www.trilogyfragrances.com Unit Pack, Inc.......................................................93 ......................973-239-4112 ........................................www.unitpack.com Universal Preserv-A-Chem, Inc. ......................119 ....................732-568-1266 ........................................www.upichem.com Xiameter/Dow Corning ................................Cover 3 ..................................................................................www.xiameter.com September 2011

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Photo News

MARY KAY FLEXES ITS MUSCLE…CAR The Ford Mustang is the newest addition to the Mary Kay career car fleet. The vehicles are available to the beauty company’s top sales directors.

•At its annual seminar, Mary Kay—best known for its coveted pink Cadillac—unveiled its newest ride: a black Ford Mustang.The new muscle car, which entered the stage from behind a thick curtain of smoke and dazzling pyrotechnics, has joined the iconic Cadillac as part of the fleet of Mary Kay career cars for top-performing independent sales directors. “At Mary Kay, for nearly 50 years, we have conducted extensive design work as we develop on-trend, high-performing

color cosmetics and skin care products that consumers want and need,”said Yvette Franco, vice president of US marketing. She added,“We applied this same, deep-rooted commitment to searching for a new Mary Kay Career Car option for our independent beauty consultants that beautifully blends style and sport, with functionality and durability—as well as one more way to inspire the Mary Kay independent sales force on their road to success.”

Soap & Glory Backs Bathing Beauty in Hamburg •A popular respite, Inner Alster lake has earned the

Soap & Glory sponsored Die Badende, 10-day public art project in Hamburg.

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title of “the living room of Hamburg.”And it was the city’s special relationship with water that inspired Oliver Voss to create“Die Badende,”a 10-day public art project that British beauty brand Soap & Glory signed up to sponsor. Soap & Glory founder Marcia Kilgore was thrilled by the concept.“We launched Soap & Glory in Germany last year, and we've been looking for a way to say,‘thank you’to everyone for embracing our products, and making us a real success there,”she said.“At Soap & Glory, we consider it our calling to bring more beauty to the world, and have fun doing it—Die Badende does exactly that—all, of course, in our signature demure, subtle and understated way.”• September 2011