Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 6

COSMETIC AND TOILETRY FORMULATIONS Second Edition Volume 6 by Ernest W. Flick ("PI NOYES PUBLICATIONS Westwood, New...

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COSMETIC AND TOILETRY FORMULATIONS Second Edition Volume 6

by

Ernest W. Flick

("PI

NOYES PUBLICATIONS Westwood, New Jersey, U S A .

Copyright 0 1997 by Ernest W. Flick No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the Publisher. Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 89-39099 ISBN 0-8155-1412-3 Printed in the United States Published in the United States of America by Noyes Publications 369 Fairview Avenue Westwood, New Jersey 07675

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data (Revised for vol. 6) Flick, Ernest W. Cosmetic and toiletry formulations. 1. Cosmetics. 2. I. Title. TP983.F55 1989 ISBN 0-8155-1218-X ISBN 0-8155-1306-2 ISBN 0-8155-1367-4 ISBN 0-8155-1383-6 ISBN 0-8155-1395-X ISBN 0-8155-1412-3

Toilet preparations.

668l.55 (v. 1) (v. 2) (v. 3) (v. 4) (v. 5) (v. 6)

89-39099

To

Ryan Eric Taylor

V

CONTENTS AND SUBJECT INDEX SECTION I: ANTIPERSPIRANTS AND DEODORANTS . . . . . . . . . . 1 Solid Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Anti Perspirant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 SECTION 11: BABY PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Spray-On Detangler for Children . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conditioning Baby Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Diaper Rash Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Skin Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Diaper Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BabyWash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foam Bath for Children . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Economy Baby Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shampoo-Baby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Shampoo with Olive Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3 4 4 5 5 6 6 7 9 10 10 11 11 12 13 13

SECTION 111: BATH AND SHOWER PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Bath Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-Phase Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bath and Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bath and Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BathOil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bath and Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Body Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Economy Bubble Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bath & Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bubble Bath-Children’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bubble Bath-Liquid ..................................

14 15 15 16 16 17 17 18 18 19 20 20

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Contents and Subject Index Bubble Bath. Emollient . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 21 Bubble Bath - Economy Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bubble Bath - Moisturizing Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Bubble Bath .Premium Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Bath and Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Clear Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Foaming Bath Powder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Creamy Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 24 Skin Conditioning Body Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Deodorizing Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Economy Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Moisturizing Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Hand and Bath Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 27 Creamy "2 in 1" Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Luxury Shower Gelee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Combo Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 29 Mild Body Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand Cleaning Cream with Solvent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Mild Body Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Hand Washing Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Moisturizing Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Pearlescent Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Pearlescent Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 After Bath Talc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Spreading Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Pearlized Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Premium Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 34 Bath Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rona/Shampoo/Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Pearlized Bath Salts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Shebu Shower Gelee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Shower Gel with Mbaruti Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 37 Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shower Gel with Softigen 767 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Shower Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Skin Conditioning Bath Gelee with Ritavena 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Dispersible Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Floating Bath-Oil Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Washing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 2 in 1 Shower Gel and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Creamy Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

Contents and Subject Index

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SECTION IV: BEAUTY AIDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Aloe Vera Cream Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Moisture Stick Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Aloe Vera Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Liposome Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Anti-Wrinkle Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Facial Firming Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Biorepair Skin Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Anti-Aging Leave On Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Blusher . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Starlight Body Freshener . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Body Emulsion, Type O N , with MPC - Milk Peptide 48 Complex and Calendula Oil CLR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ceramide Complex CLR (P) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Eye Gel with Ceramide Complex CLR (P) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Clear Facial Cleansing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Conditioning Skin Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Silky Blush . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Cooling Facial Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Cream Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Creamy Lipstick (Summer Mauve) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Petrolatum SticWLip Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Enriched Emollient Liquid Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Exfoliant Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Exfoliating Foot Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Exfoliant Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Foaming Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Exfoliating Foot Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Extra Light W/O Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Pearlescent Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Eye Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Powder Formula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Facial Cleanser with Pemulen TR-2 Polymer Emulsifier and Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Facial Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Facial Cleansing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Gel with MPC-Liposomes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Body Moisturiser with Wild Borage Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Hand and Body Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Liquid Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Lipcare Emollient Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Medicated Lip Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Lipcare Lip Pomade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66

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Contents and Subject Index Lip Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lip Salve with Glycyrrhetinic Acid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lip Salve Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lip Fix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lip Care Stick with Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lipstick. Glossy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lip Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lipstick “Soft and Moist” (Modified) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lipstick Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lipstick with A-C 400, No . 162 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lip Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Luxurious Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cleansing Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Makeup Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lash-Conditioning Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Make-up Remover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AHA Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mascara Remover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressed Powder Eyeshadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Medicated Lip Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lip Stick Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Men’s Active Wrinkle Smoother . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Tightening Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Lip Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . MPC - Milk Peptide Complex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-Cellulite Emulsion, Type O N with MPC - Milk Peptide Complex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Night Cream Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Nutrient Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nonionic Liquid Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil Free Make-up with Hypan SR15OH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil Moisturizer with Ritavena 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ON-Skin Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Petroleum OiVPetroleum Wax Free Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lip Gloss with Sun Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressed Powder Blush . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressed Powder Eyeshadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Purified Bentonite Refining Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Silky Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

66 67 67 67 68 69 70 70 71 71 72 72 73 75 75 76 76 77 77 78 78 79 79 80 80 81 82 82 83 83 84 84 85 86 87 87 88 98 90 91 91 92 93

Contents and Subject Index

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Powder Eyeshadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Silky Smooth Emollient Liquid Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Topical Spray Powder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydroalcoholic Fragranced Spray Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vitamin F Skin Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Body Smoother . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Waterproof Special Effects Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Liquid Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Moisturizing Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Care Oil with Citric Acid Ester . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Sheer Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

93 94 94 95 95 96 96 97 98 99 99

SECTION V:CFCEAMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AEC Cocoa Butter Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cocoa Butter Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AHA Renewal Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glycerin Cream with Citric Acid Esters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alpha Hydroxy Acid Liposome Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Washable Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-Wrinkle Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AEC Cocoa Butter Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cocoa Butter Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-Wrinkle Treatment Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Basic-Cream with AHA-Esters, Food Approved . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Eye Wrinkle Cream with UV Absorber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bleaching Night Cream Against Age Spots . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cleansing Cold Cream W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand Care Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream, Type O/W, with MPC-Milk Peptide Complex . . . . . . . . . . Cream, Type W/O, with MPC-Milk Peptide Complex . . . . . . . . . . Day Cream with Evening Primrose Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Basic O/W Cream, with Citric Acid Esters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dry Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aloe Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Eye Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Enriched W/O Cream with Vitamin E Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-Wrinkle Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

100

101 102 102 103 103 104 104 105 105 p05

106 106 107 108 108 109 110 110 111 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 116 117 117

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Contents and Subject Index Eye Contour Cream. Type W/O. with MPC-Milk 118 Peptide Complex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Cream with MPC .Milk Peptide Complex . . . . . . . . 118 Gentle Night Repair Cream Water in Oil Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Intensive Anti-Wrinkle Soft Cream with AH-Acids ( O N ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 W/O Cream with 17% Pigments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Light Moisturizing Cream for Dry Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Light Skin-Feel Cleansing Cream W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Hand Care Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 123 Moisturizer O/W Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Cream w/Tritisol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Makeup Remover Cleansing Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Moisturizing Hand & Body Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Moisturizing Daycream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1125 Moisturizing Day Cream (Sericin) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Incroquat Behenyl TMS Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Moisturizing Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Multi Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Neck Firming Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Cold Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Night Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 Night Repair Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Night Repair Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Facial Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Night Time Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 134 Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nighttime Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Under Make-up Cream for Normal Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Oil-Free Exfoliating Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 O/W-Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 139 Phytodermin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O W Basic Cream, Without Paraffin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1139 Protective Cream with Cromoist CM Glucan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 141 Rain Forest Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rejuvenating AHA Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 143 Skin Care Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Hand Care Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Skin Lightening Night Cream Against Age Spots . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Cleansing Cream with Salicylic Acid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145

Contents and Subject Index Skin Rejuvenating Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Therapy Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream. Type O N . with Protectan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ultra Skin Treatment Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Basic Cream for Dry Skin. with Evening Primrose Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Peeling Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Cream with Almond Oil and Shea Butter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Soft W/O Cream with Softisan 649 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O-Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chamomile Glycerin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

xv 146 147 147 148 149 149 150 150 151 151

SECTION VI: HAIR CARE PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 Acudyne 255 55% VOC DME Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Non-Aerosol Hair Spray. Low VOC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Acudyne 255 55% VOC Extra Hold Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . 154 Acudyne 255 0% VOC Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 Aerosol Styling Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 Aqueous Conditioning and Styling Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 Alcohol-Free Aerosol Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Hairspritz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Alcohol-Free Firm Holding Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Alcohol-Free Styling Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Alcohol-Free Non-Aerosol Spritz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Super Hold Pump Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Alcohol-Free Ringing Gel with Hold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 159 Cream Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alcohol-Free Styling Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Brush-On Hair Color . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Creme-in Hair Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 California Dream Hairspray - 55% VOC - 5% Solids . . . . . . . . . 162 162 Non-Alcohol Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Hair Rinse Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 163 Pearlescent Cream Rinse Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Concentrated Hair Repair with UV Protection . . . .. . 164 Iridescent Hair Gel Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 Conditioner for Dry Brittle Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Hair Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Conditioning Perm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Scalp and Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Conditioning Styling Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 167 Thermal Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Conditioning Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 ~

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Contents and Subject Index Cream Curl Activator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Hair Pomade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Cream Rinse Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Creme Rinse Conditioner for Color-Treated 173 and Permed Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Jojoba Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Detangling Creme Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 175 Easy Spreading Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gantrez Hair Spray with Cyclomethicone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Elegant Touch Strong Hold, 80% VOC Hair Spray . . . . . . 176 176 Acudyne 255 Spray Gel Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Extra-Hold Conditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 177 De-Frizzing Creme-Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Firm Holding Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Spray Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Glossing Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 179 Acidic Hair Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 Hair Conditioner with DLL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Hot Oil Conditioner with CPO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Hair Conditioner with DLL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Hair Cream Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 Hair Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 Hair Repair and Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Conditioning Hair Rinse for Oily Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Hair Shaping Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Conditioning, Setting Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Hair Straightener . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Hair Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Hair Styling Cream (for dried hair) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 Resyn Hair Spray with Dimethicone Copolyol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 High Performance Creme Rinse Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 188 Hair Shine Concentrated Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High Performance 80% VOC Non-Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . 189 189 Ultra-Hold Finishing Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hot Oil Conditioner with CPO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Hair Straightener . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Modern Expression Hair Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 191 Spiking Spritz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Non-Aerosol Finishing Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 Finishing Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $92 Replenishing Creme Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 193 Pelan Hair Conditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pomade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 ~

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194 Hair Straightener . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Premium Biodegradable Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Ethnic Hair Shine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Flexible Spray Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Salon Type Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Pump Spray Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Soft Set Conditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 StylingIConditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 Strong Advantage Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 Shape W Style Volumizing Spritz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 Vision '98 55% VOC Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Vision '98 Pump Hairspray - 55% VOC - 6% Solids . . . . . . . . . . 201 Forever Curls Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Wheat Moisturizing and Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Pump Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 W/O Hair Sculpturing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 Spray Detangler/Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 55% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Acudyne 255 55% HFC-152a Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 205 80% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80% VOC Single Phase Hydrocarbon Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . 205 55% VOC Innovative Product Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 Aerosol Finishing Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 80% VOC Innovative Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 55% VOC Innovative Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207

SECTION VII: LOTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AHA Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-Aging Day Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cationic Lotion with Incroquat Behenyl TMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Body Lotion for Sensitive Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cleansing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Botanical Facial Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cationic Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Body Lotion: Water in Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cromoist CM-Glucan Lotion with Crodafos CES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dihydroxyacetone Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Isolan DO Lotion O/W Cold Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethnic Hand & Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cocoa Butter Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

208 209 210 210 211 211 212 213 213 214 215 215 216 217 218 218 219

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Depilatory Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 220 Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 Dry Touch Emollient Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rehydrating Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 222 Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand & Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Light Conditioning Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Incroquat Behenyl TMS Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 High SPF-30 Lotion Cold Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 Low pH Glycolic Acid Lotion with 18-B Glycyrrhetinic Acid Phytosome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Collagen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 228 Silicone Barrier Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O N Hand & Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Aculyn 33 Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Pearlized Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 Protective Lotion with Cromoist CM Glucan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 Rain Forest Lotion with Cronatural Brazil Nut Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 232 Dihydroxyacetone Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Firming Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 Facial Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 Therapeutic Hand & Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 Ethnic Hand & Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 235 Under Make-up Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water-in-Oil Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 Facial Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 237 W/O Lotion, EO-free with Softisan 649 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 New "Light Lotion" with Imwitor 375 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2% AHA Viscosity Lotion with Uninontan U-34 . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238

SECTION VIII: SHAMPOOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Suspending Sulfur with Ritavena 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Children's Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Antidandruff Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Antidandruff Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Shampoo with Microcapsules . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . All Natural Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conditioning Color Enhancer Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shampoo-Clear Gel Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

239 240 240 241 241 242 242 243 243

Contents and Subject Index xix Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 Clear. Colorless Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251 Shampoo with Silicone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 Everyday Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 Deodorizing Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 253 Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Deep Cleaning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254 Water White Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254 Moisture Therapy Shampoo with Hydrotriticum WAA . . . . . . . . . . 255 Pearlescent Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 256 Noma1 Hair Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 Opaque Antidandruff Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Ultra Pearlescent Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Pearlescent Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Basic Shampoo Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 Pearlescent Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 262 Salon Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pearlized Conditioning Shampoo with Amilan GST 40 . . . . . 263 Shampoo-Clear Gel Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Pearl Pigment Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 Pearlescent Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 Salon Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Shampoo-All Purpose for Normal Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Shampoo-All Purpose for Oily Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 266 Shampoo-Inexpensive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267 Shampoo-Clear Gel Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 Shampoo-Clear Liquid Conditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shampoo - All Purpose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 Shampoo - Clear Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 Shampoo - Clear Viscous . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 Shampoo-Conditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 Shampoo-Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 Shampoo Clear Liquid Conditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 Shampoo-Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271 27P Shampoo-Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 Shampoo with Silicone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 Gentle Everyday Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 274 Temporary Color-In Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shampoo-Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 ~

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Contents and Subject Index Transparent Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . All Purpose Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water White Shampoo from a Blend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Premium Water White Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water White Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 in 1 Antidandruff Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

275 275 275 276 276 276 277 277

SECTION IX: SHAVING PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brushless Shave Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Non-Foaming Shaving Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Shave Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shave Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Low Alcohol Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

278 279 280 280 281 281

SECTION X: SOAPS AND HAND CLEANERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282 Anti-Bacterial Handsoap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283 Baby Mild Cleansing Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 Hand Cleaners-Anti-Bacterial Handsoap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 Waterless Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 Hand Cleaner, Heavy Duty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 Hand Cleaner. Liquid, Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 287 Hand Cleaners-Liquid Dispenser Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Dispenser Type: Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287 Hand Cleaners-Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 288 Liquid. Soap. Antiseptic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand Cleaner-Liquid Dispenser Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 Hand Cleaner-Liquid Dispenser Type. Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 Hand Cleaner. Liquid, Soap Antiseptic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290 Handsoap-Clear Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290 Hand Cleaners-Powder Dispenser Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291 291 Powder Dispenser Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand Cleaner. Powder Dispenser Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 Hand Cleaners-Handsoap-Clear Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293 Heavy Duty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293 Hand Cleaner, Waterless. Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294 Hand Cleaner-Waterless Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294 Waterless Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295 296 Hand Cleaners-Waterless Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296 Waterless Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand Cleaner-Waterless Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297 Hand Cleaner-Liquid. Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298

Contents and Subject Index

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Hot Pour Syndet Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Syndet Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand Cleaning Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lotion Hand Cleaner (With Abrasive) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Pearlized Hand Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pearled Gel Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Opaque Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Transparent Toilet Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Soap Bar for Hard Water . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Waterless Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Waterless Hand Cleaner with Abrasive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

299 299 300 300 301 301 302 302 302 303 303 304 305 305

SECTION XI: SUN CARE PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Sun Cream with Aloe Vera and Evening Primrose . . . . . . . . W/O Sun Protection Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Light After Sun Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . AfterSunMilk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O-Sun Screen Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Insect Repellent Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Light After Sun Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil Free Skin Bronzer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . OW-Sun Blocker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aculyn 33 Sun Screen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . OW-Sun Screen Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . OW-Sun Blocker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O W Sun Screen with Organic and Inorganic Screens . . . . . . . . . . O W Sun Protection Lotion (SPF 15) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pre-Sun Moisture Accelerator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil in Water Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Self Tanning DHA Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Protecting Waterproof Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Waterproof Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Protection Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ti02 Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sprayable Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Waterproof Aerosol Sunscreen (SPF 10) . . . . . .. .. Sunblock Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

306 307 307 308 308 309 309 310 3710 31B 312 312 313 314 314 315 315 316 316 317 317 318 319 319 320 320 321 3211 322

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Contents and Subject Index Sunblock with Ti02 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322 Sunless Tanning Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323 Tanning Accelerator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323 Sunscreen Cream SPF 9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 325 Sunscreen Cream SPF 12+ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325 Sunscreen Cream with UVA Protection (Est . SPF=25) . . . . . . . . . . 326 Sunscreen Emulsion with Titanium Dioxide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327 Sunscreen Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328 Lip Care Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328 Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329 Sunscreen Milk W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330 After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330 Sunscreen Milk W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331 Sunscreen Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331 Sunscreen Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332 Sunscreen Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333 333 Aloe After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 Sun Tan Oil-A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sun Tan Oil-B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 Sun Tan Oil-C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 Wash-Off Resistant Sunscreen Lotion with Crodafos CES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335 Water-In-Oil Sunscreen SPF 26 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336 337 Waterproof SPF 30 Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Waterproof Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15) Using Pemulen TR-1 and Carbopol Ultrez 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338 Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338 Waterproof Suntan Lotion SPF 17 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339 339 SPF 12 Sunscreen Liposome Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water-Resistant Suntan Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340 Zinc Oxide Sunscreen (Measured SPF=9.2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341 Sunscreen Lotion Using Micronized Ti02 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341 Zinc Oxide Sunscreen Cream (PABNOxybenzone 342 Free) Estimated SPF=20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

SECTION XU: MISCELLANEOUS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343 344 Fluoride Dentifrice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mouthwash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 344 Gum-Massage-Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glycerol Gel Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 345 345 Aculyn 33 Fluid Gel Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil Liposome Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346 Ritavena 5 (l.O%)/Acritamer 934 (1.0%) Blend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347

Contents and Subject Index Gel Stick

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SECTION WII: TRADE-NAMED RAW MATERIALS

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SECTION XIV: SUPPLIERS' ADDRESSES * . . , . . . . . . . . . . . . ~

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Section I Antiperspirants and Deodorants

1

2

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Solid Antiperspirant Formulating Design Illustrated i n t H e x a n e d i o l Behenyl opaque s t i c k w h i c h

and A d v a n t a g e s : h i s formula i s t h e g e l l i n g properties o f Beeswax i n a s i 1 i c o n e o i 1 , p r o d u c i n g an i s creamy and s p r e a d s e v e n l y .

Wt%

Formula: H e x a n e d i o l B e h e n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) K e s t e r Wax 8 2 ( K o s t e r Keunen) S i l i c o n e O i l 556 (Dow) Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol (P&G) Aluminum C h l o r o h y d r a t e ( R e h e i s ) Procedure: M e l t and homogenize a t 75C, at 5 5 ~ .

12.0 6.0 8.0 36.0 18.0 20.0

c o o l and p our i n t o c o n t a i n e r

A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : I r g a s o n DP-300 c a n b e added t o change t h i s p r o d u c t t o a d e o d o r a n t / a n t i p e r s p i r a n t . F r a g r a n c e s a r e e a s i l y added.

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : A G u i d e t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g Anti Perspirant Stick I n Q r e d ie n t : V o l a t i l e S i 1i c o n e Stearyl Alcohol O i l s of A l o h a K u k u i N u t O i l A r l a c e l 165 Silica Aluminum C h l o r h y d r a t e

WtO/o 4 4 50 23.00 5.00 2.00 0.50 25.00 I

Manufacturing Procedure: Combi n e in g r e d i e n t s a t 75C. S t e a r y l a l c o h o l i s t h e h a r d e n i n g a g e n t t h a t make t h e s t i c k . The S i l i c a s e r v e s as a s t a b i l i z e r a n d t h e Oils o f A l o h a K u k u i N u t o i 1 s e r v e s t w o f u n c t i o n s - r e d u c e s t a c k i n e s s and r e d u c e s w h i t e n i n g on t h e s k i n .

SOURCE: O i l s o f A l o h a : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

Section II Baby Products

3

4

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Baby Conditioner (Formula 86-0404M) % by Weight

Rhodaquat D261C/75 C e t y l A l c o h o l NF A1 kamul s PSML-80 C e l l o s i z e QP 52,000 H C i t r i c Acid Fragrance, Dye(s), P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

Q.S.

2.20 1.70 0.15 1.70 t o pH 3.5-4.5 0.10 94.15

Blending Procedure: D i s s o l v e C i t r i c A c i d i n w a t e r and h e a t t o 30-35C. W i t h v i g o r ous a g i t a t i o n , l i g h t l y s i f t C e l l o s i z e QP 52,000H i n t o w a t e r . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , c o n t i n u e t o h e a t s y s t e m t o 70-75C. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d Rhodaquat D261C/75, C e t y l A l c o h o l NF, and A l k a m u l s PSML-80 i n t o h e a t e d w a t e r s y s t e m . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , cool s y s t e m t o 40C and b l e n d i n c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v ative. T y p i c a l Formul a t ion P r o p e r t i e s : A p p e a r a n c e @ 25C: V i s c o u s , Opaque L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y f3 25C: 1 6 , 0 0 0 + c p s (No, 4 s p i n d l e (3 10 RPM) pH: 3 . 5 - 4 . 5 % Non V o l a t i l e s : 5 - 6 Spray-On Detangler for Children (Formula 88-708M) % b y Wei a h t

1. o 0.5 Q.S. Q.S. 98.5

Rhodaquat D261 C/75 S i l i c o n e 344 F l u i d (Dow C o r n i n g ) C i t r i c Acid Fragrance, Dye(s) , P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

Blending Procedure: H e a t w a t e r t o 70C. W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n Rhodaquat D261C/75 and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , c o o l s y s t e m t o 40-45C and b l e n d i n S i l i c o n e 344 F l u i d . Once s y s t e m i s u n i f o r m , a d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n p H t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d a s needed and add c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e . Use D i r e c t i o n s :

D i s p e n s e v i a pump o r a e r o s o l s p r a y .

T y p i c a l F o r m u l a t ion P r o p e r t i es : A p p e a r a n c e fJ 25C: T h i n L i q u i d pH: 3 . 5 - 4 . 5

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : f o r Personal Care

Formulations

Baby Products

5

Baby Cream % by W e i g h t

Formula: A:

Propylene Glycol Stearate Stearic Acid Carnation M i neral O i 1 ( W i tco) A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l in A1 coho1 Lanolin O i 1 Cetyl Alcohol Propylparaben B: Tech-0 11-070 S t e r - 0 - P r o (Beacon CMP) C: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l T r i e t h a n o l ami ne ( 8 5 % ) Methylparaben I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a

9-00 2.00 8.00 1 .oo 1-00 0.50 0.10 2.00 1.50 0.90 0.20 0.20

Procedure: Weigh A and h e a t w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 75C. I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r w e i g h B a n d m i x u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . Add C and h e a t t o 75C w i t h s t i r r i n g . W i t h b o t h p h a s e s a t 75C add B t o A w i t h good a g i t a t i o n , m i x 10 m i n u t e s a t t h i s t e m p e r a t u r e , t h e n c o o l w i t h m i x i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Conditioning Baby Lotion Formula:

% by Weight

A:

Carnation Mineral O i 1 ( W i tco) Stearic Acid Cetyl Alcohol Propylparaben S i l i c o n e 220 F l u i d Tech-0 11-075 C o n c e n t r a t e d O a t P r o t e i n (Beacon CMP) B: D e i o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% Methylparaben DMDM H y d a n t o i n P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l

10.00 5.00 1.50 0.15 4.00 2 -00 71 . O O 3.00 0.15 0.20 3.00

Procedure: I n t o a b e a k e r , w e i g h A . H e a t w i t h m i x i n g t o 75C. I n a n o t h e r b e a k e r , w e i g h B and h e a t t o 75C. W i t h b o t h p h a s e s a t 75C, a d d A t o B and m i x w e l l f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s , t h e n m i x and c o o l t o room temperature.

SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

6

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Baby Lotion Quantity

S t a g e M a t e r i a1 :

Oil Phase: 1 2 3 4 5

2 . ooog 3 . OOOg 1 .ooog 2.5009 3 . OOOg

AEC O c t y l P a l m i t a t e D e r v a c i d 3155 Cocoa B u t t e r , R e f i n e d Lasemul 92 AE L i p o v o l PAL

Aqueous Phase: 6 Water; Pure 7 X a n t h a n Gum 8 G l y c e r i n e 0P 9 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99%

81 . 0 9 5 g 0.350g 1 .ooog 0.7009

Preservative M ix : 10 N i p a s t a t 11 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP

0,2509 5 . OOOg

Cool ing C y c l e : 12 P. Cocoa b u t t e r AA 6780 13 C . S . D&C Red 33; 1% S o l n

0.1009 0.0059

Mixing Instructions: Weigh t h e i t e m s o f t h e O i l Phase i n t o a j a c k e t e d v e s s e l and h e a t t o 70/75C w i t h o c c a s i o n a l s t i r r i n g . M e t e r o u t t h e w a t e r i n t o t h e m i x i n g v e s s e l and s t a r t h e a t i n g . D i s p e r s e t h e X a n t h a n Gum and h e a t t o 70/75C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s m i x i ng. Add t h e o t h e r i t e m s o f t h e Aqueous Phase w h i l e h e a t i n g and m i x b r i e f l y w i t h t h e S i l v e r s o n t o smooth t h e m i x t u r e . Remember t o premix t h e Propylene Glycol & Nipastat t o a i d s o l u b i l i t y . Add t h e O i l s t o t h e w a t e r w i t h c a r e f u l S i l v e r s o n m i x i n g and m i x w h i l e c o o l i n g . When c o o l a d j u s t p H , add p e r f u m e , mach c o l o u r t o M a s t e r Sample and g i v e a f i n a l b r i e f m i x w i t h t h e S i l v e r s o n . V i s c o s i t y 3 / 1 2 r : 45-65 SG: 0 . 9 8 5 - 0 . 9 9 5 pH : 7 . 2 0 - 8 . 0 0 P r o j e c t : J W 2 4 3 4 / F o r m u l a R e f . : 974*0

Baby Oil S t a g e M a t e r i a1 : 1 L i g h t Mineral O i l 2 AEC O c t y l P a l m i t a t e 3 L i p o v o l PAL 4 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (IPM) Project:

JW 2 4 3 4 / F o r m u l a :

SOURCE: A & E Connock Ltd.:

Quantity 8 0 . OOOg 1 0 , ooog 5 . OOOg 5 . OOOg 975*0 Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Baby Products

Baby Shampoo % by Weinht S t e o l CS-130 30.0 Amphosol CA 20.0 P o l y s o r b a t e 20 5.0 Kessco PEG 6000 DS 2.0 Sodium H y d r o x i d e (50%) Q.S. F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Q.S. S o d i um C h l o r i d e Q.S. D . I . Water Q.S. t o 100.0 M i x i n g Procedure: Add t h e S t e o l CS-130 and Kessco PEG 6000 DS t o D.I. W a t e r . H e a t t o 60C and m i x u n t i l t h e PEG 6000 DS i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d , Add t h e P o l y s o r b a t e 20 and Amphosol C A . B l e n d w e l l a n d c o o l t o 30C. A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h s o d i u m h y d r o x i d e . Add f r a g r a n c e , d y e and p r e s e r v a t i v e , i f d e s i r e d . A d j u s t t o d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .

Baby Shampoo

YO b y W e i g h t Stepan-Mi 1d SL3 19.0 S t e o l CS-330 17.5 Amphosol CG 16.5 2.0 Kessco PEG 6000 DS C i t r i c A c i d (50%) Q.S. F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Q.S. Sodium C h l o r i d e Q.S. D . I . Water Q.S. t o 100.0 M i x i n g Procedure: Add t h e f i r s t t h r e e components t o D.I. W a t e r w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 50-6OC. Add PEG 6000 DS and m i x u n t i l a l l s o l i d s h a v e m e l t e d . C o o l t o 35C and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 7 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Add f r a g r a n c e , d y e and p r e s e r v a t i v e , i f d e s i r e d . A d j u s t t o d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y w i t h s o d i um c h l o r i d e . Baby Shampoo

YO b y W e i g h t S t e D a n - M i l d BSB* 40.0 Q.S. D i s t i 11 ed W a t e r Sodium C h l o r i d e Q . S . t o 100.0 C i t r i c A c i d (50%) Q.S. F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Q.S. M i x i ng Procedure: Combine f i r s t t w o i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t t o d e s i r e d pH ( 6 . 5 - 7 . 5 ) w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . A d j u s t t o d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y w i t h s o d i u m c h l o r i d e . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s w h i l e m i x i n g . SOURCE:

Stepan C o n : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

7

8

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Baby Shampoo (Formula 91-1004) 9b by Weight

50.00 Q.S. 0.15 0.15 Q . S . to pH 6.8-7.2 49.70

Mi racare MS-1 Fragrance and Dye(s) Benzyl A1 coho1 Dowicil 200 (Dow) Citric Acid Water Blending Procedure: Charge water into mixing vessel and s MS-1. Mix unti 1 completely uniform. With slowly blend in compatible Fragrance and uniform. Slowly blend in Benzyl Alcohol, Citric Acid as needed to adjust formulat

owly blend in Mi racare smooth agitation, Dye(s). Mix until Dowicil 200, and on pH to 6.8-7.2.

Typical Properties: Appearance @ 25C: Clear Liquid % Non-Volatiles: 19-21 pH: 6.8-7.2 Viscosity @ 25C: 800-2,000cps CTFA Identification: Water, PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, PEGHydroxysul tai ne, Sodi um Laureth-13 Fragrance, Benzyl Alcohol, Quatern

Sodium Trideceth Sulfate, 50 Di stearate, Cocami dopropyl Carboxylate, Citric Acid, urn-15, Dye(s).

Note: While the suggested Miracare MS-1 Baby Shampoo has been proven to be essentially non-irritating to the eyes, the addition of untested Fragrances, Dyes, and other additives can adversely affect the irritation potential of the resulting formula. SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc Surfactants & Specialties: Formulation for Personal Care: Formula 91-1004

Baby Products

9

Baby Shampoo (Formula 91-1003) % by Weight

38.5 Q.S.

M i r a c a r e BC-10

F r a g r a n c e and D y e ( s ) D o w i c i l 200 (Dow) C i t r i c Acid Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

Q.S. Q.S. t o pH 6.5-7.5 0.5-1.5 60.0

B1 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l a n d s l o w l y b l e n d i n M i r a c a r e BC-10. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) and D o w i c i l 200 p r e s e r v a t i v e . Mix u n t i l completely u n i f o r m . A d j u s t t h e pH of t h e s y s t e m t o 6 . 5 t o 7 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d a s needed. A d j u s t formu l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 1,000-2,000 c p s w i t h i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f Sodium C h l o r i d e a s needed. Typical Properties: A p p e a r a n c e @ 25C: C l e a r L i q u i d % Non V o l a t i l e s : 17-18 pH: 6 . 5 - 7 . 5 V i s c o s i t y I3 25C: 1 , 2 0 0 - 2 , 0 0 0 c p s CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , PEG-80 S o r b i t a n L a u r a t e , C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e , Sodium T r i d e c e t h S u l f a t e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , L a u r o a m p h o g l y c i n a t e , PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e , Sodium L a u r e t h - 1 3 C a r b o x y l a t e , F r a g r a n c e , C i t r i c A c i d , Q u a t e r n i u m - 1 5 , T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA, D y e ( s ) . N o t e : W h i l e t h e s u g g e s t e d M i r a c a r e BC-10 Baby Shampoo has been p r o v e n t o b e e s s e n t i a l l y n o n - i r r i t a t i n g t o t h e e y e s , t h e a d d i t i o n o f u n t e s t e d F r a g r a n c e s , Dyes and o t h e r a d d i t i v e s c a n adversely a f f e c t the i r r i t a t i o n p o t e n t i a l o f the r e s u l t i n g f o r mu 1a . SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : F o r m u l a t i o n f o r Personal Care Diaper Rash Lotion C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l (and) c e t e a r e t h - 2 0 Dimethicone PPG-2 m y r i s t y 1 e t h e r p r o p i o n a t e Carnation Stearic acid Aloe vera Propylene g l y c o l (and) d i a z o l i d i n y l urea (and) propylparaben S o d i um c i t r a t e Nonoxynyl h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e Water SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

% by Weight 8.00 20.00 5.00 4.00 10.00 1.oo

1.oo 3.00 q.s.

100.00

10

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Baby Skin Wash

Wei q h t % Uredients: 52.40 Water 0.10 T e t r a s o d i urn EDTA 18.00 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (28% 2M. E.O.) 15.00 Sodium T r i d e c e t h S u l f a t e 1.75 PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e ( A n t i 1 1 7 1 ) C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l u t i o n ) t o pH 6 . 5 0.25 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 8852) Preservatives Q.S. Q.S. C o l or Q.S. Fragrance L a u r y l G1 u c o s i de ( a n d ) Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e (Tego 12.50 Glucosid L 55) Q.S. Sodium C h l o r i d e ( 2 5 % s o l u t i o n ) Procedure: 1 . H e a t w a t e r t o 40-5OC. 2 . Combi ne i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r 3 . A d j u s t p H and v i s c o s i t y .

-

m i x i n g we1 1 between a d d i t i ons

Diaper Cream Cream (W/O Emulsion) I n q r e d i en>; Phase A : C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l EM-90) Petrolatum D i me th i cone ( 5 0 0 c s ) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 Wax 9 8 0 1 ) O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) Mineral O i l P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( I s o l an G I - 3 4 ) Hydrogenated Castor O i l S y n t h e t i c Wax

Weight%

Phase B : Water Sodium C h l o r i d e P r e s e r v a t iv e s Phase C: Fragrance

2.0 4.5 3.0 1.5 5.0 4.0 0.5 0.8 1.2

76.9 0.6 Q.S. Q.S.

Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A , H e a t w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C t o i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2 . H e a t Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w e n e r g y m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y a p p e a r a n c e a t a l l t i m e s . 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4 . Homogeni z e , SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Chemical C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t i ons

I

Baby Products

11

Baby Wash (Formula 91-1113) This u l t r a - m i l d s k i n cleanser formula i s i d e a l l y s u i t e d f o r b a b i e s , c h i l d r e n a n d anyone w i t h s e n s i t i v e s k i n . I t g e n t l y c l e a n s t h e s k i n a n d i m p a r t s an e l e g a n t , s o f t a f t e r f e e l . I t c a n a l s o be used as a m i l d b u b b l e b a t h t h a t i s s a f e f o r c h i l d r e n . % BY W e i g h t

M i r a n o l BT Geropon SBFA-30 J a g u a r C-162 C i t r i c Acid Fragrance, Dye(s), Water

25.0 10.0 0.3

Q.S. Q.S.

Preservative

64.7

81 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , d i s p e r s e J a g u a r C-162 i n w a t e r . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , a d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n p H t o 5 - 6 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d a s needed. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , b l e n d i n M i r a n o l BT and Geropon SBFA-30. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n p H t o 6-7 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d a s needed and add c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) and P r e s e r v a t i v e . T y p i c a l F o r m u l a t ion P r o p e r t ie s : A p p e a r a n c e @ 25C: C l e a r L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 50-300 c p s pH: 6-7 % Non V o l a t i l e s : 13-14 Foam Bath for Children (Formula 87-0508R) Rhodapex ES Geropon SBFA-30 C e l l o s i z e QP 30,000 H C i t r i c Acid V e r s e n e 100 (Dow) F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

QS

% by Weight 6.2 14.5 1.2 t o pH 6.5-7.0 0.1

QS 78.0

Blending Procedure: Warm w a t e r t o 50-55C and s l o w l y b l e n d i n Rhodapex E S . W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t C e l l o s i z e QP 3 0 , 0 0 0 H i n t o w a t e r and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . Cool t o 40-45C w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n and add Geropon SBFA-30 and V e r s e n e 1 0 0 . A d j u s t pH o f s y s t e m t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d a s needed a n d t h e n add c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , Dye, and P r e s e r v a t i v e .

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : f o r Personal Care

Formulations

12

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Economy Baby Lotion (Formula 87-0901M) W a t e r Phase: A ) Methylparaben P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l B) D . I . Water C) C a r b o p o l 934 ( G o o d r i c h ) D ) Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 5 0 % Aq.

% by Weight

0.15 2.50 90.97 0.15 0.13

Solution)

O i l Phase: Dermalcare N I A1 kamul s MM/M A l k a m u l s GMS S t e a r i c A c i d TP Propylparaben

1.50 1.50 1.oo 2.00 0.10

B1 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : W a t e r Phase: A) Disperse Methylparaben i n Propylene G l y c o l . With mixing, heat s y s t e m u n t i 1 M e t h y l p a r a b e n h a s c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d in P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l B) S l o w l y b l e n d P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l m i x i n t o D e i o n i z e d W a t e r . H e a t w a t e r s y s t e m t o 45-5OC. C ) W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y d i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l 934 i n t o h e a t e d w a t e r b a s e . C o n t i n u e t o h e a t s y s t e m t o 75-8OC. D ) S l o w l y b l e n d Sodium H y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n i n t o h e a t e d w a t e r b a s e . The s y s t e m s h o u l d i m m e d i a t e l y t h i c k e n and c l e a r .

.

Oil Phase: I n a s e p a r a t e m i x i n g v e s s e l c o m b i n e O i l Phase i n g r e d i e n t s and, w i t h g e n t l e h e a t , warm O i l Phase t o 70-75C ( a v o i d s c o r c h i n g ) . W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d h e a t e d O i l Phase i n t o h e a t e d W a t e r Phase. Once s y s t e m i s u n i f o r m , c o o l t o 40-45C w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n and b l e n d i n c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e and Dye(s). Typical Properties: A p p e a r a n c e ( a f t e r s t a n d i n g 72 h r s . ) : pH ( 1 0 % A q . ) : 6 . 5 - 7 . 5

Viscous,

Smooth L o t i o n

CTFA I d e n t if ic a t ion : W a t e r , P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l , Sodium S t e a r a t e , M y r i s t y l M y r i s t a t e , C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l and C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 , G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e , Carbomer 934, M e t h y l p a r a b e n , P r o p y l p a r a b e n , F r a g r a n c e , Dyes. SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : f o r P e r s o n a l C a r e : F o r m u l a t i o n 87-0901M

Formulation

Baby Products

13

Shampoo-Baby Weight96

Ingredients: P a r t A: Water Cocoamphohydroxy S u l t a i ne C a l foam ES-303

51.30 12.00 20.00

P a r t B: PEG-60 A1 mond G1 y c e r i de PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e

15.00 0.50

Part C: Germaben 11, F r a g r a n c e

9.50

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . F i r s t mix p a r t A u n t i 1 c l e a r . 2 . M e l t PEG-60 Almond G l y c e r i d e and t h e n m i x w i t h PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e a t a b o u t 50C. 3 . Add p a r t B i n t o p a r t A and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . 4 . Add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e as n e e d e d . 5 . A d j u s t pH i f needed.

SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-015-01 Baby Shampoo with Olive Oil

Ingredients: Amphol y t J B 130K (Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) M a r l i n a t CM 1 0 0 / 8 0 ( L a u r e t h - 1 1 C a r b o x y l i c A c i d ) S o f t i g e n 767 (PEG-6 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c G l y c e r i d e s ) I m w i t o r 375 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e / L i n o l e a t e / 01 e a t e ) Olive O i l A n t i 1 141 L i q u i d ( P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) PEG-55 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 01 e a t e ) P r e s e r v a t i ve Fragrance Water P r e p a r a t i on : A l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e mixed t o g e t h e r , and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous.

Weight% 15.00 15.00 5.00 3.00 1.oo 4.00 9,s. 9,s. up t o 1 0 0 . 0 0

h e a t e d t o 40 d e g r e e s C . ,

SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a Inc.: F o r m u l a t i o n 3 . 5 E

Section III Bath and Shower Products

14

Bath and Shower Products

I5

After Bath Moisturizing Lotion A m i l d , smooth, w h i t e l o t i o n t h a t b o o s t s c o n t r a c t i o n and reorganization o f collagen f i b e r s w i t h Raffermine t o r e i n f o r c e f i r m n e s s and e l a s t i c i t y o f t h e s k i n .

Ingredients: 1 . D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2. Propylene G l y c o l 3. Methylparaben 4 . A c r i t a m e r 941 ( C a r b o m e r ) 5 . R i t a p r o 300 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l and C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 ) 6 . R i t a IPM ( I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ) 7 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 8. Stearic Acid 9. Propylparaben 1O.NaOH ( 5 0 % S o l u t i o n ) 11 . R a f f e r m i n e ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy F l o u r )

%w/w 88.97 2.50 0.15 0.15 1.50 1.50 1-00 2.00 0.10 0.13 2.00

Compoundi ng P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 - 3 and b e g i n m i x i n g . S l o w l y add i t e m 4 w h i l e m i x i n g . H e a t t o 75C. Combine i t e m s 5 - 9 and h e a t t o 75C. Add i t e m 10 t o w a t e r . Add o i l t o w a t e r w h i l e m i x i n g . Cool t o 40C and add i t e m 11. R e f . No. 120-208A 3-Phase Bath Oil An a p p e a l i n g t r i - l a y e r b a t h o i l w h i c h m o i s t u r i z e s t h e s k i n and c o n t a i n s S i m c h i n f o r a l u x u r i o u s f e e l , Ingredients: 1 . M i n e r a l O i 1 7NF 2 . Simchin N a t u r a l (Jojoba O i l ) 3. Diethylphthalate 4 . Fragrance-"Blue M i n t " 5. Methylparaben 6. G l y c e r i n e 7 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i z e d Water 8 . NaCl 9. Glydant

%w/w 26.40 6.60 32.00 1.oo q.s 22.67 9.07 2.26 Q . S

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s s o l v e S i mchi n i n m i n e r a l o i 1 , D i s s o l v e m e t h y l p a r a b e n and f r a g r a n c e in d i e t h y l p h t h a l a t e . D i s s o l v e NaCl and G1 y d a n t in w a t e r and m i x w i t h g l y c e r i n e . M i x a l l t h r e e p h a s e s t o g e t h e r . R e f . No. 121-102 SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

16

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Bath and Body Wash Ingredients: C a l foam ES-303 Sodium C h l o r i d e Water C a l t a i ne C-35 Calamide C Decyl P o l y g l ucose

Wei qht90 60.10 1.10 5.30 5.00 8.80 19.70

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d . F o r m u l a t i o n GEL-002-01 Bath and Shower Gel Ingredients: C a l foam ES-302 C a l t a i ne C-35 Calamide F Salt W a t e r ( F r a g r a n c e , Dye,

C i t r i c Acid)

Wei q h t % 42.70 4.05 2.55 0.75 49.95

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : V i s c o s i t y i s 9 0 , 0 0 0 CPS. T o t a l s o l i d s 16.25% F o r m u l a t i o n GEL-003-01

Bath and Shower Gel Innredients : C a l B l e n d Gel Sodium C h l o r i d e Water F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : Add t h e Sodium C h l o r i d e t o t h i c k e n t h e f o r m u l a t i o n . T h i c k e n s t o 90,000 CPS. F o r m u l a t i o n GEL-004-01 SOURCE: P i 1 o t Chemi c a l Co. : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t i o n s

Weight% 50 1 .o-2.0

Q.S. 0.5

Bath and Shower Products

17

Bath Oil Phase : A A A A A A A A A

Innredient : Cyclomethicone Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e Mineral O i l C12-15 A l c o h o l s B e n z o a t e Fragrance O i l s o f A l o h a K u i k u i Nut O i l O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i l Vitamin E Aloe O i l

Wt% 15.00 5.00 48.80 15.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 0.20 1.00

M a n u f a c t u r i n g P r o c e d u r e : Phase A : M i x a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . A f l o a t i n g b a t h o i l t h a t f o l l o w s you o u t o f t h e t u b and keeps you f e e l i n g s i l k y . The O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia and K u k u i N u t O i l c o u n t e r a c t s t h e e x c e s s i v e h y d r a t i o n f r o m t h e b a t h . The h i g h l e v e l o f f r a g r a n c e g i v e s a n i c e bouquet.

SOURCE: O i 1 s o f A l o h a : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n Bath and Shower Gel

& Laureth-7 S o d i um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( P h o e n a t e SLES-70) Cocami de DEA (Phoenami d CD) D i s o d i um L a u r e t h S u l f o s u c c i n a t e S i l i c o n e Q u a t e r n i u m - 5 ( P e c o s i l SMQ-40) Dei o n i z e d W a t e r D i s o d i um EDTA

B: P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben Color Fragrance

5 4.00 50.00 6.00 2.50 5.00 31 - 4 8 0.02

1.00 9,s. q.s.

Procedure: Add Phase A i t e m s i n o r d e r w i t h s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n . H e a t i f n e c e s s a r y t o a f f e c t d e a e r a t i o n . When Phase A i s b e l o w 45C, add Phase B w i t h s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n .

SOURCE: P h o e n i x C h e m i c a l , I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

18

Cosmetic and Toiletv Formulations

Body Shampoo (Formula 92-0214) % by Weinht

A1 kamide DC 212/S Geropon TC-42 A l k a m u l s 6000 DS Water C i t r i c Acid Fragrance, dye(s),

6.0 15.0

0.5 Q.S. preservative

Q.S. Q.S.

B1 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : Charge t a n k w i t h w a t e r , A l k a m i d e DC 212/S, Geropon TC-42 and A l k a m u l s 6000 DS, and m i x w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 65C. Cool t o 35C. A d j u s t pH t o 7 . 5 b y a d d i t i o n o f c i t r i c a c i d . Add f r a g r a n c e , d y e ( s ) and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Typical Formulation Properties: A p p e a r a n c e @ 25C: C l e a r , s l i g h t l y v i s c o u s l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 1,000-1,500 c p s pH: 7 . 5 S o l i d s : 11-11 - 5 % CTFA I d e n t if ic a t i on : W a t e r , Cocami d e DEA, S o d i u m M e t h y l C o c o y l T a u r a t e , PEG-1 50 Distearate, C i t r i c Acid.

Economy Bubble Bath (Formula 91-1008) M i r a c a r e MPC C i t r i c A c i d ( t o pH 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 ) Fragrance, Dye(s), P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

% by Weight 20.0 Q.S.

Q.S. 1.o-2.0 78.5

B1 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n M i r a c a r e MPC. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d as needed. Add c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o d e s i r e d c o n s i s t e n c y w i t h t h e j u d i c i o u s a d d i t i o n o f Sodium C h l o r i d e as needed. T y p i c a l F o r m u l a t i on P r o p e r t i e s : A p p e a r a n c e @ 25C: C l e a r L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 3 , 0 0 0 - 4 , 0 0 0 c p s pH: 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 % Non V o l a t i l e s : 8-10 CTFA I d e n t if ic a t io n : W a t e r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide DEA, Sodium C h l o r i d e , Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e , Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c Acid, Dye(s>.

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : F o r m u l a t i o n s for

Personal Care

Bath and Shower Products

19

Bath & Shower Gel

%Wt.

I n_ g r e_ d i_ en=

Cal B1 end C1 e a r F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

50.00

Q.S 0.1-0.7 49.6

Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : B1 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d C l e a r i n t o w a t e r and m i x u n t i 1 u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e , and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 15,009-20,000 c p s (No. 4 S p i n d l e @ 10rpm) w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a ! a d d i t i o n o f s o d i u m c h l o r i d e as needed I

Typical Formulation Properties: Appearance: C l e a r , V i scous L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 15,000-20,000 cps pH: 6 . 0 - 7 . 0 96 Non V o l a t i l e s : 17-19 CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocami de D E A , C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e , Sodi urn C h l o r i d e , F r a g r a n c e , Preservative, C i t r i c Acid, Dye(s) F o r m u l a t i o n #GEL-001 - 0 1 Bath & Shower Gel

".UL..

__ I n gr e-~ dients:

42-70 4.05 2,55 0.75 49 * 95

Cal foam ES-302 Cal t a i ne C - 3 5 Calamide F Salt Water ( F r a g r a n c e , Dye, C i t r i c A c i d ) Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : V i s c o s i t y i s 90,000 cPs. T o t a l s o l i d s 16.25% F o r m u l a t i o n #GEL-003-01 Bath & Shower Gel

Sodium C h l o r i d e Water F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e

1 .0-2.@ 9.5

Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : Add t h e Sodium C h l o r i d e t o t o t h i c k e n t h e f o r m u l a t i o n Thickens t o 90,000 cPs. F o r m u l a t i o n #GEL-004-01 SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l Co. : F o r m u l a r y

9.5

20

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Bubble Bath-Children's Ingredients: Water C a l foam ES-303 C a l s o f t T-60 Calamide C C i t r i c Acid 0 is o d ium EDTA Preservative Perfume, C o l o r

% Wt.

39.45 40.00 14.00 5.00 0.15 1 .oo 0.05 0.10

Comments About t h i s F o r m u l a : 1 . A d d t h e f i r s t t h r e e i n g r e d i e n t s and s t i r ; q u i t e v i s c o u s when t h e amide i s a d d e d . 2 . Add C i t r i c A c i d t o a d j u s t t h e pH t o 6 . F o r m u l a t i o n #SUB-001-01

t h e b l e n d becomes

Bubble Bath-Liquid Innredients: Water NaCl C a l foam ES-303 C a l a m i d e LL PEG 7 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e Cocami d o p r o p y l ami ne O x i d e Perfume, D y e ( s ) , P r e s e r v a t i v e s Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : 1 . Mix t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n order 2 . A d j u s t t h e amount o f s a l t a s 3 . The b l e n d o f amide and amine d e t e r g e n c y w i t h minimum i r r i t a s t r i c t l y h i g h amide b l e n d . F o r m u l a t i o n #BUS-O02-01

% Wt.

48.50 1-00 40.00 5.00 2.50 3.00 9.50 1i s t e d . needed t o c o n t r o l t h e v i s c o s i t y . o x i d e p r o v i d e s a h i g h l e v e l of a t i o n potential not possible i n

Bubble Bath, Emollient Inaredients: Water C a l foam ES-302 PEG 7 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e C a l a m i d e LL Perfume, D y e (s ) , P r e s e r v a t i v e Comments A b o u t 1. Mix a l l t h e 2 . The p r o d u c t Formulation

t h i s Formula: ingredients i n order l i s t e d . i s clear. #BUS-003-01

SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l Co. : F o r m u l a r y

31 . 7 0 60 00 5.00 3.00 0.30 I

Bath and Shower Products

21

Bubble Bath - Economy Foam Bath Wei n h t % 15.00 Q.S. Q.S. 85.00

Ingredients : CalB1 end C1 e a r F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : Blending Procedure: W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d C a l B l e n d C l e a r i n t o w a t e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e , and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 1 , 0 0 0 - 3 , 0 0 0 c p s w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f s o d i u m c h l o r i d e as needed. CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , Cocamide DEA, Cocamido p r o p y l B e t a i n e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c Acid, Dyes(s). F o r m u l a t i o n BUB-004-01 Bubble Bath

-

Moisturizing Foam Bath

Ingredients: C a l B1 end C1 e a r Glycerine F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

Wei n h t % 37.00 1.50 Q.S. 0.2-0.8 61 . O O

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : B1 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d CalB1 end C1 e a r and g l y c e r i n e i n t o w a t e r . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e , and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 5,000-8,000 c p s w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f sodium c h l o r i d e as needed. CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide DEA, G l y c e r i n e , C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , F r a g a r n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c Acid, Dye(s). F o r m u l a t i o n BUB-005-01 SOURCE: P i 1 o t C h e m i c a l Co, : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t i o n s

22

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Bubble Bath

-

Premium Foam Bath

Ingredients: C a l B1 end C1 e a r F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e S o d i um C h l o r i d e Water Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : B l e n d i n g Procedure: W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y w a t e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add preservative. Adjust formulation w i t h t h e incremental a d d i t i o n of

Wei n h t % 25-00 Q.S. Q.S. 75.00

blend CalBlend Clear i n t o c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e , and v i s c o s i t y t o 1,000-3,000 cps s o d i u m c h l o r i d e a s needed.

CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , Cocamide DEA, Cocamido p r o p y l B e t a i n e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c Acid, Dye(s). F o r m u l a t i o n BUB-006-01 Bath and Shower Gel Ingredients: CalB1 end C l e a r F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : Blending Procedure: W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d C l e a r i n t o u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e , and A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 15,000-20,000 c ps @ 10 r p m ) w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f s o d i u m needed.

w h t % 50.00 Q.S 0.10-0.70 49.60

w a t e r and m i x preservative. (No. 4 S p i n d l e c h l o r i d e as

Typical Formulation Properties: A p p e a r a n c e : C1 e a r , V i s c o u s L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 15,000-20,000 c p s pH: 6 . 0 - 7 . 0 % Non V o l a t i l e s : 17-19 CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide DEA, C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c A c i d , Dve(s). F o r m u l a t i o n No. GEL-001 -01 SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l Co. : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Both and Shower Products

Clear Body Wash % b y Wei a h t

D . I.W a t e r S t e o l CS-330 N i n o l 30-LL Amphosol CG Tween 20 V e r s e n e 100 Glycerin P r e s e r v a t i v e , F r a g r a n c e , Dye

Q.S. t o 1 0 0 . 0 57.7 3.5 5.0 0.30 0.20 0.5

Q.S.

M i x i ng Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH t o - 6 . 7 Clear Body Wash % by Weight

D . I . Water B i o - T e r g e AS-40 N i n o l 55-LL S t e o l CS-330 Kessco PEG 6000DS P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, F r a g r a n c e C i t r i c A c i d (50%) Sodium C h l o r i d e

Q.S. t o 100.0 37.50 4.0 28.50 1.o Q.S.

Q.S. Q.S.

M i x i ng Procedure : Combine f i r s t f i v e i n g r e d i e n t s i n a c o n t a i n e r and h e a t t o 165F w i t h m i x i n g . Keep t e m p e r a t u r e c o n s t a n t u n t i l a l l s o l i d p a r t i c l e s h a v e m e l t e d . W i t h m i x i n g , c o o l t o 11OF, a d d p r e s e r v a t i v e , f r a g r a n c e and d y e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . Foaming Bath Powder S t e p a n o l ME-Dry Sodium B i c a r b o n a t e Sodium S e s q u i c a r b o n a t e L a t h a n o l LAL P r o p y l Paraben PPG-12-PEG-50 L a n o l in Fragrance

% by Weisht 19.00 21 . o o 44.85 11 - 0 0 0.15 3.00

1 .oo

M i x i n g Procedure: Combine f i r s t f i v e i n g r e d i e n t s i n a c o n t a i n e r w i t h l i d a n d mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Mix f o l l o w i n g two i n g r e d i e n t s i n separate c o n t a i n e r u n t i l u n i f o r m . S l o w l y combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s w h i l e mixing. Store i n sealed containers. SOURCE: S t e p a n C o . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

23

24

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Creamy Shower Gel Weight% Innredients: 2.37 S o d i um C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e 52.28 Water 0.10 T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (28% 2M. E . O . ) 25.00 10.00 S o d i um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) Sodium PCA ( a n d ) G l y c i n e ( a n d ) F r u c t o s e (and) Urea (and) Niacinamide (and) I n o s i t o l 0.25 ( a n d ) Sodium B e n z o a t e ( a n d ) L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l ) 2.00 DATEM ( A m i l a n GST 40) 1.oo PEG-7 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ( T e g o s o f t G C ) Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F50) 5.00 G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r e t h - 4 (Tego P e a r l N 1 0 0 ) 2.00 Preservatives Q.S. Sodium C h l o r i d e : A d j u s t t o d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y C i t r i c A c i d ( 1 0 % ) : A d j u s t t o pH 5 . 5 - 6 . 0 i f needed Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e Sodium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e i n warm w a t e r a t 60C. 2 . Add Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e . 3 . Cool t o 40C. 4 . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r as l i s t e d , s t i r r i n g b e t w e e n each a d d i t i o n . 5 . C o o l t o 30-35C. Add Tego P e a r l N 1 0 0 and p r e s e r v a t i v e s . 6 . A d j u s t p H and v i s c o s i t y . Skin Conditioning Body Shampoo (cold process) Inqredients: Wei q h t % T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 0.10 Water 44.25 Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e - (28% 2M. E . O . ) 25.00 Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) 20.00 PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e ( A n t i 1 1 7 1 ) 1.50 C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F 5 0 ) 5.00 PEG-7 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ( T e g o s o f t GC) 2.50 PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L ) 1.oo D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l (A b i 1 B 8852) 0.50 W a t e r ( a n d ) E t h o x y d i g l y c o l ( a n d ) P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l (and) B u t y l e n e G l y c o l (and) M a t r i c a r i a E x t r a c t (and) Sage E x t r a c t ( a n d ) Y a r r o w E x t r a c t ( a n d ) Balm M i n t E x t r a c t ( a n d ) Rosemary E x t r a c t ( a n d ) R e s t h a r r o w E x t r a c t ( a n d ) C o l t s f o o t E x t r a c t ( a n d ) W i l d Thyme E x t r a c t ( a n d ) H o r s e t a i l E x t r a c t (and) F r u c t o s e (and) A l t h e a E x t r a c t ( E x t r a p o n e 3 S p e c i a1 2/789490 D r a g o c o ) 0.15 C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n ) t o pH 6 Preservatives Q.S. Fragrance Q.S. Ammonium C h l o r i d e ( 2 5 % s o l u t i o n ) as needed Procedure: Add in g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g b e t w e e n a d d i t i o n s . A d j u s t pH. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y .

SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s I

Bath and Shower Products

25

Deodorizing Body Wash % b y Wei p h t

Q.S t o 1 0 0 . 0

D. I.Water Stepan-Mi 1d LSB S t e p a n o l WAT N i n o l 96-SL Propylene G l y c o l I r g a s a n DP-300 Kessco PEG 400 ML Hydrolyzed Collagen P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, F r a g r a n c e S o d i um H y d r o x i de (50%) Sodium C h l o r i d e

60.00 25.00 4.00 1.5 0.5 2.0 0.5

Q.S. Q.S. Q.S.

M i x i ng Procedure: Combine f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s i n a c o n t a i n e r and h e a t t o 165F w i t h m i x i n g . When u n i f o r m , c o o l t o 11OF. M e a n w h i l e , i n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , c o m b i n e i t e m s 5 and 6 m i x i n g u n t i l i t e m 6 i s d i s s o l v e d . Add t o m a i n m i x t u r e . W h i l e m i x i n g , add r e m a i n i n g iterns. A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 w i t h 50% s o d i u m h y d r o x i d e . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .

Deodorizing Body Wash % by W e i g h t D . I.W a t e r

Stepan-Mi 1d LSB S t apa no 1 WAT N i n o l 96-SL Propylene Glycol Ir g a s a n DP-300 Kessco PEG 400 ML H y d r o 1y z e d C o l 1 agen P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, F r a g r a n c e Sodium H y d r o x i d e (50%) Sodium C h l o r i d e

Q.S. t o 100.0 60.00 25.00 4.00 1.5 0.5 2.0 0.5

Q.S. Q.S. Q.S.

M i x i ng Procedure: Combine f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s i n a c o n t a i n e r and h e a t t o 1 6 5 F w i t h m i x i n g . When u n i f o r m , c o o l t o l l O F . M e a n w h i l e i n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , c o m b i n e P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l and I r g a s a n DP-300, and m i x u n t i l I r g a s a n DP-300 i s d i s s o l v e d . Add t o m a i n m i x t u r e . W h i l e m i x i n g , add r e m a i n i n g i t e m s . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 w i t h 50% s o d i u m h y d r o x i d e . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .

SOURCE: S t e p a n C o . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

26

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Economy Foam B a t h

w:,

Ingredients: Cal B1 end C1 e a r F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

._

Comments A b o u t t h i s Formu a : B1 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y w a t e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add preservative. Adjust formulation w i t h the incremental a d d i t i o n o f

15.00 Q.S. Q.S. 85.00

blend CalBlend Clear i n t o c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e , and v i s c o s i t y t o 1,000-3,000 cps s o d i u m c h l o r i d e as n e e d e d .

CTFA I d e n t i f ic a t i on : W a t e r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , Cocamide D E A , Cocamido p r o p y l B e t a i n e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c Acid, Dye(s). F o r m u l a t i o n #BUB-OO4-001 Moisturizing Foam Bath

Ingredients: C a l B l e n d C1 e a r G 1 y c e r i ne F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

%Wt . 37.00 1.5 Q.S. 0.2-0.8 61 . O O

Blending Procedure: W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d C a l B l e n d C l e a r and g l y c e r i n e i n t o w a t e r . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e , and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 5,000-8,000 c p s w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f sodium c h l o r i d e as needed. CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide D E A , G l y c e r i n e , C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e , Sodi urn C h l o r i d e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c Acid, Dye(s). F o r m u l a t i o n #SUB-005-01 SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l Co : F o r m u l a r y I

Bath and Shower Products

27

Hand and Bath Gel Inqredients : Weight% Phase A : Water 50.15 T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 0.10 3.00 S o d i um I s e t h i o n a t e S o d i um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (30%) 15.00 D i s o d i um L a u r e t h - 3 S u l f o s u c c i n a t e 10.00 D i m e t h i c o n e Copol yo1 ( A b i 1 B 8851 ) 0.75 PEG-7 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ( T e g o s o f t GC) 1 .oo P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( I s o l a n G I 34) 0.50 3.00 Glycerin Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) Sodium PCA ( a n d ) G l y c i n e ( a n d ) F r u c t o s e (and) Urea (and) Niacinamide (and) I n o s i t o l ( a n d ) Sodium B e n z o a t e ( a n d ) L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l ) 0.25 Preservatives Q.S. Color Q.S. Fragrance Q.S. PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e ( A n t i 1 1 7 1 ) 2.00 Cocoami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne (Tego B e t a i ne F 5 0 ) 11.75 G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r e t h - 4 (Tego P e a r l N 1 0 0 ) 2.50 Sodium C h l o r i d e Q.S. Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e t h e T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA i n t h e w a t e r . 2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g b e t w e e n a d d i t i o n s . A v o i d a i r entrapment. 3 . S l o w l y m i x i n t h e PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e . 4 . Add t h e C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e . 5 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h t h e 25% s o l u t i o n o f Sodium C h l o r i d e . Creamy "2 in 1" Body Wash Ingredients: Wei a h t % Phase A : G1 y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( T e g i n EGS) 2.50 Myristic Acid 4.00 5.00 Jojoba O i 1 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (28% 2M. E . O . ) 45.00 10.00 Water Phase B: Water 19.00 PEG-7 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ( T e g o s o f t GC) 2.00 Phase C : P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l ( a n d ) PEG-55 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 0 1 e a t e ( A n t i 1 141L) 2.50 Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e , e t c . Q.S. Phase D: C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F 5 0 ) 10.00 Procedure: 1 . H e a t Phase A t o a p p r o x i m a t e l y 70C w h i l e m i x i n g ( a b o v e t h e m e l t i n g p o i n t o f T e g i n EGS). 2. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e a s Phase A . 3 . S t i r Phase B i n t o Phase A . Cool t o 40C. 4 . Add Phase C . M i x w e l l . A v o i d a i r e n t r a p m e n t . 5 . Add Phase D w i t h s t i r r i n g . A v o i d a i r entrapment. SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

28

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Luxury Shower Gelee A c l e a r , v i s c o u s , r i c h - l a t h e r i n g shampoo f o r h a i r and b o d y w h i c h c l e a n s e s g e n t l y , and l e a v e s a s o f t , smooth a f t e r f e e l .

Part: A

I n c l r e d i e n t ( T r a d e Name) : D e i on1 zed Water T E A L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t e p a n o l WAT) Na4EDTA I m i d a z o l i d i n v l Urea ( G e r m a l l 1 1 5 ) M e t h y l Paraben C o c a m i d o p r o p y l Amine O x i d e (Mazox CAPA) Ammonium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( J o r d a p o n A C I - 3 0 ) Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( A l f o n i c 1412-A)

W B 41 . 6 15.6 0.2 0.2 0.2 10.4 13.0 13.0

B

Cocamide MEA (Monamid CMA) Cocamide DEA (Mazamide JT-128) Fragrance

2.3 2.6 0.5

C

C i t r i c Acid

0.4

pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : 7 5 0 0 - 1 0 , 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d #3 @ 6 r p m ) Appearance: C l e a r , v i s c o u s l i s u i d Procedure: M i x p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n m a i n v e s s e l u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . I n a s i d e v e s s e l . p r e m i x p a r t B , warming t o 40C t o d i s s o l v e t h e c o c a m i d e M E A . Add B t o A, m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . Adjust PH. Formul a t i o n F-105 Combo Bar

M o d i f i c a t i o n o f an example i n US P a t e n t # 5 , 0 4 1 , 2 3 3 I n g r e d i e n t L T r a d e Name) : T a l l o w / C o c o Soap ( 8 5 / 1 5 ) Sodium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d (Jordapon CI-75) Water Sodium I s e t h i o n a t e ( W i t c o n a t e N I S ) Sodium C h l o r i d e Fragrance T i 02 Na3H EDTA BHT Formul a t i on M104

SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc. :

Suggested Formulations

Wt?h 55.6 29.3 10.3 2.0 0.4 1.o 1.0 0.2 0.2

Bath and Shower Products

Mild Body Shampoo This pearlized formula flash-foams to a v o l u m i n o u s , lacy lather and leaves skin f e e l i n g soft and smooth, not dry and ti ght. Ingredient (Trade N_ame_^: Deionized Water Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (Jordapon CI-UP) Sodium C12-15 Pareth-15 Sulfonate (Avanel S-150 CG) A m m o n i u m Lauryl Sulfate (Stepanol AM) A m m o n i u m Laureth Sulfate (Alfonic 1412-A) Glycol Stearate (Mapeg EGMS) Tetrasodium EDTA Methyl Paraben I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea (Germall 115) Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine (Mafo CSB-50) Soyamide DEA (Mazamide SS-1Q) C i t r i c Aci d

Wt% 52.6 7,9 4.2 10.1 7.5 0.7 0.2 O. 2 0.2 15.1 1.2 0.1

pH: 6.0-6.5 Viscosity: 6600 cps (Brookfield #2 (3 3rpm) Appearance: Clear, p a l e straw-colored l i q u i d

Procedure: Mix the first u n t i l a l l solids in order, m i x i n g triethanolamine,

e i g h t i n g r e d i e n t s together, h e a t i n g to 65C are dissolved. Add the last four i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l u n i f o r m . Adjust pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d or' if necessary.

SOURCE: PPG Industries, Inc.: F o r m u l a t i o n F-2Q4 Hand Cleaning Cream with Solvent Wt %

Part A: Zusolat 1005/85

10.5

Shellsol T

34.5

Paraffinoil Aerosi1 200

9.0 1. O

Part B: Oxypon 2145 Extrakt 52

2.5 15.0

Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e

27.5

Mix part A and part B separately. F i n a l l y add part B to part A w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co.: F o r m u l a t i o n B 27/2

29

30

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Mild Body Shampoo T h i s h i g h - v i s c o s i t y shower g e l e e i s s u i t a b l e f o r p a c k a g i n g i n t u b e s . I t f l a s h e s i n t o a dense, r i c h , s o f t - f e e l i n g l a t h e r w h i c h r i n s e s e a s i l y and l e a v e s a smooth a f t e r f e e l o n t h e s k i n . Part: A B

C

Wtl

I n g r e d i e n t ( T r a d e Name): D e i o n i zed Water P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ( U c a r e P o l y m e r JR-125)

52.6 0.3

Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t e p a n o l AM) Sodium C12-15 P a r e t h - 1 5 S u l f o n a t e ( A v a n e l S-150 CG) Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( A l f o n i c 1412-A) Sodium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( J o r d a p o n CI-UP) N a 4 EDTA M e t h y l Paraben I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a ( G e r m a l l 11 5 )

10.1

C o c a m i d o p r o p y l H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e ( M a f o CSB-50) Soyami d e DEA (Mazami de S S - 1 0 ) Fragrance C i t r i c Acid

15.1 1.2 0.5 Q.S.

4.2 7.5 7.9 0.2 0.2 0.2

pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : 1 9 , 9 0 0 cps ( B r o o k f i e l d #3 @ 3rpm) Appearance: C l e a r , v i s c o u s y e l l o w l i q u i d Procedure: D i s p e r s e t h e p o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 i n t h e p a r t A w a t e r w i t h good p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r a t l e a s t 20 m i n u t e s w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 40C. Add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m a i n t a i n i n g t h e 40C t e m p e r a t u r e u n t i l a l l s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add t h e M a f o CSB-50, t h e Mazamide SS-10, and t h e f r a g r a n c e i n o r d e r , t h e n a d j u s t t h e pH.

SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n F-107 Hand Washing Paste

Wt% S u l f e t a l T C 50 P u r t o n SFD Carboxymethyl c e l l u l o s e S o f t soap Q u a r t z sand China c l a y S o d i um t r i p o l y p h o s p h a t e q.s. t o make 100%: ‘ w a t e r ,

4.0 1.o 1.5 12.0 60.0 6.0 1.0 perfume,

preservative

SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co.:

Formulation

B22/2

Bath and Shower Products

31

Moisturizing Body Wash

S t e o l CS-230 S t e p a n o l AM-V S t e p a no 1 WA- Ex t r a N i n o l 30-LL EDTA S t e p a n TAB-2 S i 1 icone DC200 Avocado O i l M a p r o s y l 30 H y d r o l y z e d Corn P r o t e i n P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, F r a g r a n c e C i t r i c A c i d (50%) S o d i urn Chl o r i de

% by Weight 30.00 25.00 23.00

4.5 0.2 5.0 1 .o 0.5 10.0 0.5 Q.S.

Q.S. Q.S.

M i x i n g Procedure: Combine f i r s t f i v e i n g r e d i e n t s i n a c o n t a i n e r and h e a t t o 165-170F w i t h m i x i n g . I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , h e a t S t e p a n TAB-2, S i l i c o n e DC200, and Avocado O i l t o 165-170F w i t h m i x i n g . When m e l t e d , add t o f i r s t f i v e i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o llOF, t h e n add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s ( M a p r o s y l 30, H y d r o l y z e d c o r n p r o t e i n , p r e s e r v a t i v e , d y e , and f r a g r a n c e ) with mixing. A d j u s t pH t o 5.0-6.2 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . Pearlescent Body Wash % b y Wei a h t D.

Q . S . t o 100.0

I. Water

B i o - T e r g e AS-40 Kessco EGMS N i n o l 55-LL S t e o l CS-330 Kessco PEG 6000DS P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, C i t r i c A c i d (50%) Sodium C h l o r i d e

37 50 1 .oo a

4.00

28.50 1 .oo Fragrance

Q.S. Q.S. Q.S.

M i x i n g Procedure: Combine f i r s t s i x i n g r e d i e n t s i n a c o n t a i n e r and h e a t t o 165F w i t h m i x i n g . Keep t e m p e r a t u r e c o n s t a n t f o r one h a l f h o u r . W i t h m i x i n g , c o o l t o l l O F , add p r e s e r v a t i v e , f r a g r a n c e and d y e . A d j u s t pH t o 6.0-6.5 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .

SOURCE: S t e p a n 60.: S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

32

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pearlescent Shower Gel Phase : A A A A A A A B

B

% by W t

Innredie n t i D e i o n i z e d Water Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e Ammoni um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e Cocamid DEA Glycol Stearate Preservative O i l s o f A l o h a Kukui Nut O i l Sodium C h l o r i d e Perfume

65.50 20.00 8.00 5.00 1.50

QS 0.50 1 .oo 0.25

Manufacturing Procedure: Phase A : Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t p r e s e r v a t i v e and p e r f u m e a t 60C Cool t o 40C. Phase B . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and p e r f u m e . Package. Here t h e f u n c t i o n o f t h e Kukui Nut O i l i s t o r e p l e n i s h t h e o i l s l o s t on t h e h a i r so t h a t i t does n o t g e t o v e r l y d r y . U s i n g t o o much O i l w o u l d c u t down on f o a m i n g . After Bath Phase: A B E3

B

Talc % bv W t 92.50 5.00 1 .50 1 .oo

Innredi ent : Talc Perfume O i l PPG-20 M e t h y l G l u c o s e E t h e r O i I s o f A l o h a Macadami a N u t O i 1

Manufacturing Procedure: Combine Phase B and when u n i f o r m b l e n d i n t o t a l c . H e r e t h e O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i l h e l p s t h e t a l c s p r e a d and c u t s down o n t h e d r y f e e l i n g o f t h e s k i n . L e a v e s a n i c e smooth f e e l .

SOURCE : O i 1s o f A 1 oha : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t ions Spreading Bath Oil __-___ Formula:

Ado1 66 Carnation M i neral O i 1 ( W i tco) Isopropyl Myristate A r o s u r f 66-PE 12 Fragrance Procedure: Mix c o l d i n order l i s t e d . SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

56 b y W e i g h t 7.00 45.00 45.00 1 .oo 2.00

Bath and Shower Products

33

Pearlized Shower Gel A p e a r l i z e d b o d y shampoo w i t h P a t i o n i c I S L f o r m o i s t u r e , R i t a t a i n e f o r m i l d n e s s , and P o l y q u t a 400 f o r s k i n c o n d i t i o n i n g .

Ingredients: 1 . Sodium C14-16 O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e 2. Propylene G l y c o l 3 . R i t a EGMS ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e ) 4 . R i t a EGDS ( G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ) 5 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a t o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 6 . R i t a t a i ne (Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) 7 . R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide D E A ) 8 , P o l y q u t a 400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i um-1 0 ) 9 . R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e V e r a G e l ) l O . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 11 . G1 y d a n t

%w/w 37.50 5.00 2.00 2.00 3.00 5.00 3.00 1 .oo 0.50 40.80 0.20

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s s o l v e i t e m s 8 and 9 i n i t e m 1 0 . Combine w i t h i t e m s 1 and 2 and h e a t t o 70C. Add i t e m s 3 - 7 and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . A l l o w t o c o o l . Add item 1 1 . R e f . No. 121-145 Shower Gel A shower g e l c o n t a i n i n g P o l y q u t a 400 f o r v i s c o s i t y and conditioning.

Ingredients: 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . S o d i um L a l r y l s u l f a t e 3 . Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e 4 . C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne 5 . Laurami de DEA 6 . P o l y q u t a 400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 7 . C i t r i c A c i d 50% 8 . G1 y d a n t

%w/w 42.60 25.00 25.00 3.00 3.00 1.oo 0.20 0.20

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : H e a t w a t e r t o 70C and add P o l y q u t a 400. M i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add i t e m s 2-5 w h i l e s t i r r i n g . A l l o w t o c o o l . Add i t e m s 7 - 8 . R e f . No. 121-108A

SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

34

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Premium Foam Bath

%Wt.

Ingredients: C a l B1 end C1 e a r F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

25.00 Q.S.

Q.S. 75.00

Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : Blending Procedure: W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y w a t e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add preservative. Adjust formulation w i t h t h e incremental a d d i t i o n o f

blend CalBlend Clear i n t o c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e , and v i s c o s i t y t o 1,000-3,000 cps s o d i u m c h l o r i d e as needed.

CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , Cocamide DEA, Cocamido p r o p y l B e t a i n e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c A c i d , Dye(s) F o r m u l a t i o n #BUB-006-01 I

Bath Body Wash

O/oWt.

I n g r e d ie n t s ; C a l foam ES-303 S o d i um C h l o r i de Water C a l t a i ne C-35 Calamide C Decyl Po l y g l ucose

60.10 1.10 5.30 5.00 8.80 19.70

F o r m u l a t i o n #GEL-002-01 SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l

Co,:

Formulary

Bath and Shower Products

35

Rona/Shampoo/Shower Gel Use o f t i t a n a t e d m i c a p e a r l p i g m e n t s i n shampoo f o r m u l a t i o n s c r e a t e s i r i d e s c e n t e f f e c t s w h i c h c a n n o t be a c h i e v e d w i t h c o n v e n t i o n a l s t e a r a t e p e a r l ing a g e n t s . Rona ' s T i m i r o n Super C o l o r s , which d e r i v e t h e i r e f f e c t from l i g h t i n t e r f e r e n c e , r e f l e c t s i n g l e c o l o r s a c r o s s t h e v i s i b l e s p e c t r u m . T i m i r o n Super G o l d p r o d u c e s a g o l d l u s t e r , T i m i r o n Super Red a r e d r e f l e c t a n c e , and so o n . C o m b i n a t i o n s o f t h e Super C o l o r s and w a t e r - s o l u b l e d y e s w i 11 r e s u l t i n u n i q u e " t w o - c o l o r " e f f e c t s , whose a p p e a r a n c e varies w i t h t h e angle o f viewing. Rona h a s d e v e l o p e d a s y s t e m f o r s u s p e n d i n g m i c a p i g m e n t s i n d e t e r g e n t f o r m u l a t i o n s . An i n c r e a s e i n v i s c o s i t y a l o n e w i 11 n o t p r e v e n t s e t t l i n g ; a t h i x o t r o p i c g e l i s needed. The c o m b i n a t i o n o f Veegum HV (Mg A1 S i l i c a t e ) and K l u c e l G ( h y d r o x y p r o p y l c e l l u l o s e ) y i e l d s a g e l n e t w o r k t h a t i s c o m p a t i b l e w i t h many d e t e r g e n t s y s t e m s : t h e Veegum p r o v i d e s t h e s u s p e n s i o n p r o p e r t i e s , w h i l e t h e K l u c e l a c t s as a p r o t e c t i v e c o l l o i d t o p r e v e n t a g g l o m e r a t i o n o f t h e Veegum. The d e t e r g e n t s y s t e m s c o n t a i n i n g t h e Veegum/Klucel c o m b i n a t i o n c a n be m a n u f a c t u r e d v i a c o l d p r o c e s s . The p r e - h o m o g e n i z a t i o n s t e p t o s w e l l t h e Veegum c a n b e a c c e l e r a t e d w i t h h e a t . Because Veegum i s s e n s i t i v e t o s a l t s , l a c k o f a g g l o m e r a t i o n o f t h e Veegum w i t h t h e d e s i r e d d e t e r g e n t l e v e l and s a l t c o n t e n t s h o u l d be insured before proceeding w i t h formulation. Pearlized Bath Salts Phase # : 1 1 2 2 2

Wt% Bath C r y s t a l s Pearl pigment ( e . 9 .

C o l o r o n a Magenta)

L u v i s k o l VA641 Isopropanol Fragrance

99.00 1-00 0.40 3.60 9,s.

Procedure: Combine p h a s e 1 w i t h g e n t l e t u m b l i n g a g i t a t i o n . Combine p h a s e 2 . When homogenoeus, s p r a y o n t o p h a s e 1 w i t h c o n t i n u o u s t u m b l i n g a g i t a t i o n . E v a p o r a t e s o l v e n t v i a vacuum o r t r a y d r y i n g .

SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SD123

36

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shebu Shower Gelee A b a t h g e l e e w i t h a smooth u n i q u e f e e l f r o m P a t i o n i c I S L and Shebu i s a s k i n c o n d i t i o n e r . Ingredients: 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (ES-3) 2 . R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 3 . Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) 4 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 5 . Glydant Plus 6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 7 . Fragrance 8 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e )

%w/w 53.00 4.00 3.00 3.00 0.20 36.20 0.10 0.50

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : H e a t i n g r e d i e n t s 1 - 6 t o 65C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . C o o l t o 43C and a d d p e r f u m e . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e and pH w i t h l a c t i c acid. R e f . No. 121-80A Shebu Shower Gelee A b a t h g e l e e w i t h a smooth u n i q u e f e e l . Shebu i s a s k i n conditioner

.

Ingredients: 1 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (ES-3) 2 . R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 3 . Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) 4. Glydant Plus 5 . D i s t i 1l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 6. Fragrance 7 . R i t a p e g 150 O S (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) I

w/w

53.00 4.00 3.00 0.20 39.20 0.10 0.50

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : H e a t i n g r e d i e n t s 1 - 6 t o 65C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 43C and add p e r f u m e . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e and pH w i t h l a c t i c acid. R e f . No. 1 2 1 - 8 0 8

SOURCE: R . I. T . A . C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Bath and Shower Products

Shower Gel with Mbaruti Oil Stage M a t e r i a l : Stage A: 1 Water; Pure 2 EDTA, D i s o d i u m S a l t 3 Germaben 11-E 4 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (SLES) 5 G a f q u a t 734 6 M b a r u t i O i l ( M e x i c a n Poppy O i l ) 7 Fragrance

Quantity 52,2459 0.2009 0.7509 3 7 . OOOg 0.2009 0.1009

0.3009

Stage B: 8 D - P a n t h e n o l 75% 9 Cocamide CDE 10 Empigen BB

0.2009 2 . ooog 1 .ooog

S t a g e D: 11 Tego P e a r l S33 12 P h o s p h o r i c A c i d 13 C . S . D&C Y e l l o w No. 6; 1?6 S o l n 14 C . S . FD&C B l u e No. 1; 1% S o l n 1 5 Sodium C h l o r i d e ( s a l t )

3 . OOOg 0.0459 0.1409 0.7009 2,7509

Mixing Instructions: M e t e r o u t t h e w a t e r and add each i t e m i n t u r n , m i x i n g w e l l a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h p h o s p h o r i c ( o r C i t r i c ) a c i d a n d c o l o u r m a t c h b e f o r e f i n a l l y a d j u s t i n g t h e v i s c o s i t y b y a d d i n g Sodium Chloride. P r o j e c t J W 2 4 2 2 / F o r m u l a R e f . 936* 1 Shower Gel S t a g e M a t e r i a1 : H.E. Ginseng Pre-Mix 1 : 1 Fragrance 2 Empigen BB 3 I r g a s a n DP300 Stage A : 4 Water; P u r e 5 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (SLES) S t a g e B: 6 E m p i l a n E 2502 7 C i t r i c A c i d BP 8 Sodium C h l o r i d e ( s a l t ) 9 H . E . Chamomile 10 C o l o u r s a s r e q u i r e d M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s : Make i n o r d e r . P r o j e c t JW 0 2 6 3 / F o r m u l a R e f . : 782*0 SOURCE: A&E Connock: S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Q u a n t i ty 0 . ooog

____.

0.5009 5 . OOOg 0.1009 44,5509 4 5 . ooog 1.2009 0.2509 2.2009 1 .ooog 0.2009

37

38

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shower Gel with Softigen 767 Ingredients: S o f t i g e n 767 (PEG-6 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c G l y c e r i d e s ) M a r l i n a t 2 4 2 / 2 8 (Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ) A m p h o l y t JB 130/K ( C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) E l f a c o s GT 282 S ( H y d r o g e n a t e d T a l l o w e t h - 6 0 Myristy1 Glycol ) Color Preservative W a t e r , up t o

A.

Weight% 5.00 38.00 10.00 6.00 q.s. q.s. 100.00

Fragrance

q.s.

Preparation: A l l t h e m a t e r i a l s i n ( A ) a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r , h e a t e d up t o a b o u t 60 d e g r e e s C , and s t i r r e d d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o a b o u t 30 d e g r e e s C . The p e r f u m e i s t h e n a d d e d . F o r m u l a t i on 5 . 4 5 Shower Shampoo Innredients: Weight% A) M a r l i n a t 2 4 2 / 2 8 ( S o d i um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ) 41 . o o Arnpholyt JB 130K ( C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) 13.00 S o f t i g e n 767 (PEG-6 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c G l y c e r i d e s ) 2.00 1 .so D e h y q u a r t LT ( L a u r t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) Panthenol 1.oo Preservative q.s. 1.00 Sodium C h l o r i d e Water up t o 100.00 B ) F r a g r a n c e L i m o b a i n A . 11 6 . 8 3 0 Preparation: ( A ) i s m i x e d t o g e t h e r and m e l t e d a t a b o u t 50 d e g r e e s C . ( 6 ) i s added a t a b o u t 35 d e g r e e s C . Formulation 5.4T

SOURCE:

Huls A m e r i c a I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

0.50

Bath and Shower Products

39

Skin Conditioning Bath Gelee with Ritavena 5 Innredients: %w/w P a r t A: 1 . D i s t i l l e d W a t e r (1OOC) 10.00 2. Ritavena 5 2.00 P a r t B: 3 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 53.00 4. D i s t i l l e d Water 21 . 1 5 5 . Monamid 150 ADD 4.00 6 . R i t a w a x 15 3.00 7. P a t i o n i c ISL 3.00 8. R i t a p e g 150 DS 0.50 9. Methylparaben 0.15 P a r t C: 10.Fragrance 1.oo 0.50 1 1 . K a t h o n CG 12.Sodium C h l o r i d e ( 2 5 % S o l u t i o n ) +-1 . o o 1 3 . P a t l a c LA (44% S o l u t i o n ) + - O n 70 Compoundi n g P r o c e d u r e : H e a t P a r t B t o 165F w i t h m i x i n g . P r e m i x P a r t A i n a b l e n d e r f o r 2 m i n u t e s . Add t o P a r t B. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 120F. Add P a r t C . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 u s i n g P a t l a c LA (44% S o l u t i o n ) . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e ( 2 5 % S o l u t i o n ) . SOURCE: R . 1 , T . A . C o r p . : R i t a v e n a 5 : F o r m u l a t i o n 111-203 Dispersible Bath Oil

Formul a : C r o v o l PK-40 P r o c e t y l 10 A1 coho1 SD-40 Carnation Mineral O i 1 Fragrance Procedure: S t r a i g h t b l e n d a1 1 in g r e d i e n t s u n t i 1 c l e a r .

Wt% 9.00 16.00 10.00 64.00 q.s.

Floating Bath-Oil Bar

Wt% Formula: W i t c o n o l APM 69.0 Carnation M i neral O i 1 10.0 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 10.0 Sodium S t e a r a t e ( W i t c o ) 8.0 Water 3.0 C o l o r , Perfume q.s. procedure: D i s p e r s e s o d i u m s t e a r a t e C-1 i n W i t c o n o l APM. Add C a r n a t i o n m i n e r a l o i l , p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and w a t e r . H e a t t o 80 t o 85C. S t i r u n t i l c l e a r . Cool w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 77C and add c o l o r and p e r f u m e . Pour i n t o m o l d s a t 73C. SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

40

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Washing Lotion With a bacteriostatic effect, clear, 9.9% active ingredient Reci pe : A Octopirox B Genapol AMG C Fragrance G l u c a m a t e DOE 120 D y e s t u f f sol u t i on Preservative D Allantoin E Water F Genagen CAB

Wt% 0.20 25.00 0.30

1

.oo

q.s. q.s.

0.20 63.30 10.00

Procedure: 1 Dissolve A i n 6. 2 S t i r t h e components o f C o n e a f t e r a n o t h e r i n t o 1 . 3 Dissolve D i n E while heating s l i g h t l y . 4 A d d 3 t o 1. 5 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. 6 A d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h F. F o r m u l a A II/4022 Washing Lotion Clear, 10.5% active ingredient Recipe: A H o s t a p o n KCG 6 Fragrance C Water G l u c a m a t e DOE 120 Magnesium c h l o r i d e Dyestuff solution Preservative Genagen CAB Procedure: 1 Dissolve B i n A. 2 S t i r t h e components o f C o n e a f t e r a n o t h e r i n t o 1 . 3 I f necessary a d j u s t t h e pH. F o r m u l a A II/4021

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e R e c i p e s f o r t h e C o s m e t i c I n d u s t r y

W

O

30.00 0.30 55.20 3.00 1.50 q.s. q.s.

10.00

Bath and Shower Products

2 in 1 Shower Gel and Body Lotion 24.5% active ingredient

Wt%

R e c i pe : Emulsogen LP Genapol L-3 C e t i o l HE Soybean o i l Isopropyl palmitate

2.00 3.00 2.00 3.00 3.00

B

P r i f a c 2942

4.00

C

Hostapon S C I Genapol LRO l i q u i d Genapol AMG Fragrance D y e s t u f f s o l u t i on Preservative Genagen CAB

D

P o l y m e r JR 400 A 1 1a n t o i n

E

Water

A

2.50 25.00 15.00 1.oo q.s. q.s. 6.00

0.50 0.30 32.70

Procedure: 1. Dissolve B i n A while heating gently. 2 . S t i r t h e components o f C i n s u c c e s s i o n i n t o 1, w h i c h s h o u l d s t i l l b e warm. 3 . D i s s o l v e t h e components o f D i n E w h i l e h e a t i n g g e n t l y . 4. S t i r 3 i n t o 2. 5 . Homogenize. Formula A I/8065 Creamy Bath Oil Clear, low viscosity Recipe: H o s t a p h a t K L 340 N Emulsogen LP M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y Soybean o i l Isopropyl palmitate Fragrance D y e s t u f f s o l u t i on

A

2.00 2.00 53.00

10.00 30.00 3.00 q.s.

Procedure: M i x t o g e t h e r a l l t h e components i n any sequence a t room temperature. Formula A X V / 1 0 1 0

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e R e c i p e s f o r t h e C o s m e t i c I n d u s t r y

41

Section IV Beauty Aids

42

Beauty Aids

43

Aloe Vera Cream Scrub

y c b y \ V ei q h t

F-0.cELLi~a.L A:

Dei o n i z e d Water A l o e Vera G e l 0: P r o p y l e n e Gl y c o i Methyl paraberi Ethyl paraben

65.95 1 .00 2.00 0.20

0.i 5

C:

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE C a r n a t i o n Mi n e r a i Oi 1 ( W i t c o ) S a f f 1 ower O i 1 Sesame O i l Squal ane Dioctyl Adipate (and) Octyl S t e a r a t e (and) Octyl P a l m i t a t e (Wickhen) S t e a r i c Acid C e t y l A1 coho1 Methocel 40-io0

5.00 5.00 i .00

Dei o n i z e d W a t e r T r i e t h a n o l ami n e

1 .00

n:

1.00 1 .on 1

.no

2.50 0.50 0.50 1

.00

E:

Color

q.s

F:

Perfume O i l G: D e i o n i z e d Water Dowici i 2 0 0 A n t i m i c r o b i a l H: Pol yet.hyl e n e 9 A

0.10

i .oo 0.10

?0.00

Procedure: Melt. w a t e r i n t o v e s s e l , a d d a l o e v e r a , m i x a n d b e g i n h e a t i n g t o 80C. In s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , p r e p a r e B by h e a t i n g p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l ; a d d p a r a b e n s a n d when d i s s o i v e d a d d t o A . C o m b i n e w i t h b a t c h a n d m j x f a r 5 r n i n s . Add D a n d b e g i n t o c o o l . Add E , t h e n F w h e n b a t c h i s b e l o w 4 5 C . Add G a n d s p r i n k l e : n ti. Moisture Stick Base __ F o r m u l i: :

61 a n a o l Rosswax Rosswax Rosswax

M i n e r a l 01 1 26-1 1 5 2 7 5- 1 i0 2 1824

Ameriate P

[Wi

tco)

Yo b y V j e i g n t 50 28 2 10 10

Procedure: Melt i n g r e d i e n t s i n a k e t t l e a t 1 7 0 F u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . When mixed t h o r o u g h l y , p o u r i n t o m o l d s . SOURCE : W i t c o C o r p : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s I

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

44

Aloe Vera Moisturizer E x c e l l e n t f e e l , c o n t a i n i n g R i t a l o e f o r s k i n c o n d i t i o n i n g and C l a r i s k i n f o r p r e v e n t i n g and a t t e n u a t i n g age s p o t s . Ingredients: %w/w 1 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 2.00 2 . L a n o l i n USP X-Tra Deo 0.50 3 . M i n e r a l O i l ( B r i t o l 9NF) 8.00 4. R i t a Cetearyl Alcohol 50/50 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 2.00 5. S t e a r i c Acid 4.00 6. Ritasol (Isopropyl Lanolate) 1 .oo 7. Ritaceti (Cetyl Esters) 1 .oo 8 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 4.00 9 . T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 50% 1.oo 1 0 . G1 y c e r i ne 2.00 11 , P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 2.00 0.30 1 2 . M e t h y l P a ra h y d r o x y Benzoate 1 3 . P r o p y l Parahydroxy Benzoate 0.10 1 4 . R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e V e r a G e l ) 1 .oo 1 5 . S o r b i t o 1 70% 2.00 5.00 16,C l a r i s k i n (Yeast E x t r a c t ) 17.Perfume q.s. 1 8 , D i s t i 11 e d / D e i o n i z e d W a t e r 64.10 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : M i x i t e m s 1 - 8 and h e a t t o 8OC. Combine i t e m s 9-15 and 1 8 , and h e a t t o 80C. S l o w l y add w a t e r p h a s e t o o i l p h a s e w i t h a g i t a t i o n . C o o l w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n t o 45C. Add i t e m 16-17 and c o o l t o 40C. R e f . No. 122-838 Liposome Gel A s o o t h i n g g e l c o m b i n i n g t h e b e n e f i t s o f v i t a m i n s A, C and E i n a s y n e r g i s t i c and e f f e c t i v e l i p o s o m e s y s t e m w i t h h y d r o l y z e d soy p r o t e i n , 56wJw_ Inbredi ents: 87.40 1 D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i z e d W a t e r 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer 9 4 0 ) 0.50 3 . X a n t h a n Gum 0.10 4 . 1,3 Butylene Glycol 5.00 5 . R i t a s i 1 190 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ) 0.10 6 . Shebu WS (Shea B u t t e r ) 1 .oo 7 . TEA @ 99% 0.40 8 . P r o m o i s WS ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy P r o t e i n ) 0.20 9 . Glydant 0.20 10.Fragrance 0.10 11 R o v i some ACE ( V i t a m i n B l e n d ) 5.00 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 2 i n w a t e r . Add i t e m 3 and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add i t e m s 4 , 5 and 6 s e p a r a t e l y . Add TEA u n t i l b a t c h t h i c k e n s . Add i t e m s 8 , 9 , 1 0 and 1 1 . The pH o f a g e l i s 5 . 5 . R e f . No. 121-95

.

.

SOURCE:

R.I.T,A. C o r p , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

45

Anti-Wrinkle Cream Ingredients: 1 D i s t i 11 e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer 9 4 0 ) 3 . X a n t h a n Gum 4. 1,3 B u t y l e n e G l y c o l 5 R i t a s i 1 190 ( D i m e t h i cone Copol yo1 ) 6 . Shebu WS (Shebu B u t t e r ) 7 . TEA 13 99% 8 . P r o m o i s ECP ( C o l l a g e n ) 9. Glydant 10,Fragrance 11 . T e n s i n e (Wheat P r o t e i n )

. I

%w/w 87.40 0.50 0.10 5.00 0.10 1 .oo 0.40 0.20 0.20 0.10 5.00

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 2 i n w a t e r . Add i t e m 3 and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add i t e m s 4 , 5 and 6 s e p a r a t e l y . Add TEA u n t i l b a t c h t h i c k e n s . Add i t e m s 8,9,10 and 1 1 . The pH o f a g e l i s 5 . 5 . R e f . No. 1 2 2 - 1 0 3 A Facial Firming Gel An o i l - f r e e f o r m u l a t i o n t h a t r e h y d r a t e s t h e s k i n and p r o t e c t s a g a i n s t s k i n r e l a x a t i o n and w r i n k l e s w i t h v i t a l p r o t e i n s . Ingredients: 1 D i s t i 11 e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 ( C a r b o m e r ) 3 D i s t i 11 e d / D e i o n i zed Water 4. Propylene G l y c o l 5 . D i s o d i u m EDTA 6. T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e ( 9 9 % ) 7 . T e n s i n e (Wheat P r o t e i n ) 8 . R e d u c t i n e (Oat P r o t e i n ) 9 . B i o C a r e SA (Albumen and H y a l u r i c A c i d and Dextran S u l f a t e ) 1 0 . G1 y d a n t 11,Blue Dye

. I

aw/w 60,50 0.80 27.90 5.00 0.20 9,5.

5.00 1 .oo

0.10 0.50 9,5.

Compoundi n g P r o c e d u r e : Slowly d i s p e r s e Acritamer i n t o water w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Mix u n t i l w e l l d i s p e r s e d . Add i t e m s 3 - 5 . W i t h s l o w m i x i n g add i t e m 6 . Add i t e m s 7-10 and m i x . R e f . No. 122-95

SOURCE: R , I . T . A .

Corp.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

46

Biorepair Skin Gel T h i s w h i t e g e l w i t h e m o l l i e n t s h a s a good p e n e t r a t i o n w i t h a n o n - o i l y a f t e r f e e l . Hyasol-BT d e l i v e r s m o i s t u r e t o t h e s k i n . Repai r f u n c t i o n i s p r o v i d e d b y F i t o b r o s i de ( 1 ip i d b a r r i e r ) a n d Immucell ( a c t i v a t i o n o f c e l l r e s p i r a t i o n ) I

Item

Inqredients: Weight% A ) D e i o n i z e d Water 70.40 5.00 Glycerin Hamamelis E x t r a c t 5.00 D - P a n t h e n o l 50P 1 .oo Phenoni p 0.30 6 C a r b o p o l 1342 0.60 7 N a t r o s o l 250 HR 0.30 8 L u v i s k o l K90 0.10 9 B) Sodium H y d r o x i d e 18% S o l u t i o n 2.70 C) Isopropyl M y r i s t a t e 3.00 10 11 Bi sabolol 0.50 12 A n t a r o x CO 630 2.00 13 D) F i t o b r o s i de 3.00 14 Immucell 3.00 3.00 15 H y a s o l -BT 16 Fragrance 0.10 Procedure: D i s s o l v e i t e m s 2-8 i n w a t e r ( 1 ) . N e u t r a l i z e w i t h phase € 3 ) . M i x p h a s e C and i n c o r p o r a t e i n t h e r e s u l t i n g g e l A white gel i s o b t a i n e d . F i n a l l y add i t e m s 1 3 - 1 6 one a f t e r a n o t h e r . A p p l i c a t i o n No. D 0 0 9 . A / 0 4 . 9 3

1 2 3 4 5

I

Anti-Aging Leave On Mask T h i s r e f r e s h i n g q u i c k mask a c c e l e r a t e s s k i n c e l l t u r n o v e r ( I m m u c e l l ) and s t r e n g t h e n s t h e weakened l i p i d b a r r i e r ( L a c t o m i d e ) Ingredients : Wei a h t % D e i o n i z e d Water 76.90 Glycerin 5.00 3 Phenoni p 0.30 4 I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a 0.20 5 U l t r e z 10 0.30 6 T r i e t h a n o l ami n e 0.30 7 A b i l B 8843 2.00 8 Amerchol L 101 5.00 9 Immucell 5.00 10 L a c t o m i de 5.00 Procedure: D i s s o l v e i t e m s 2-5 i n w a t e r ( 1 ) . N e u t r a l i z e w i t h T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e ( 6 ) t o pH 5 . 5 - 6 . 0 . F i n a l 111 i n c o r p o r a t e iterns 7-10 u n d e r s t i r r i n g o n e a f t e r another. A p p l i c a t i o n No. D 031 . C / O 1 - 9 6 1 2

A)

SOURCE: P e n t a p h a r m L t d . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

Blusher

Wt% Syncrowax ERL-C Syncrowax HR-C C e r a p h y l 368 M y r i t o l 318 Emerest 2452 M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben Supra T a l c B i r o n ESQ M i c a M-RP C o l o r g r i n d - 50% 19-012 i n M y r i t o l 318

12.10 1.90 38 40 3.00 0.50 0.20 0.10 18.55 15.00 8.25 I

( D & C Red #6 Ba L a k e )

2.00

Manufacturing Procedure: The c o l o r g r i n d was p r e p a r e d i n a d v a n c e on a t h r e e r o l l e r m i l l . Combine t h e waxes, g r i n d and o i l s . H e a t t o 80-85C u n t i l homogeneous. Add t h e t a l c , m i c a and BiOC1. A g i t a t e w i t h a h i g h speed m i x e r u n t i l no a g g l o m e r a t e s r e m a i n . S t i r i n t h e p e a r l p i g m e n t w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Pour a t 7 0 C . F o r m u l a t i o n AN2-33-2

Starlight Body Freshener Phase # : I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 Dei o n i zed w a t e r 1 G1 y c e r i ne 1 SD 40 A l c o h o l 1 T i m i r o n S t a r l ig h t C o l o r

Wei s h t % 31 - 5 5 5.00 20.00 0.10

2

1% C a r b o p o l 941 s o l u t i o n

3 3

T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% D e i o n i zed w a t e r

0.60 2.00

4 4

S o l u l a n 98 Fragrance

0.50 0.25

5

C e r t i f i e d dye(s)

40.00

qs

Procedure: Combine p h a s e #1 w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . When homogeneous, add t h e r e m a i n i n g p h a s e s i n o r d e r . F o r m u l a t i o n EM2-27

SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

47

48

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Body Emulsion, Type O/W, with MPC - Milk Peptide Complex and Calendula Oil CLR Weight% Inaredients: 4.50 a ) E u m u l g i n VL 75 2.00 Lanette 0 1.oo Monomuls 60-35 C 4.00 C e t i o l LC 5.00 Cetiol B C e t i o l PGL 1 .oo 3.00 C a l e n d u l a O i l CLR 0.30 Phenoni p 65.85 b ) Water, d i s t i l l e d 0.30 Phenon i p 0.30 C a r b o p o l 980 G1 y c e r in 2.00 0.75 c ) KOH, 20% s o l u t i o n d) Water, d i s t i l l e d 9.38 0.12 N a 3 - C i t r a t e x 2H20 MPC-Mi 1 k P e p t i de Compl ex 0.50 Manufacture: a ) M e l t and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C; b ) H e a t t o a p p r o x . 70C and s t i r i n t o a ) . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 50C; c ) S t i r i n . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C; d) S t i r i n . Perfume, homogenize Ceramide-Complex CLR (P) Ceramide Complex CLR ( P ) c o n t a i n s 2% l i p i d s i n l a m e l l a r , l i q u i d c r y s t a l l i n e f o r m . The p l a n t d e r i v e d l i p i d m i x t u r e c o n s i s t s o f a t l e a s t 10% s p h i n g o l i p i d s ( c e r a m i d e s , g l y c o c e r a m i d e s = cerebrosides). Eye Gel with Ceramide Complex CLR (P)

Inqredi ents : a ) H i s p a g e l 200 K e l t r o l , 1% aqueous s o l u t i o n Water, d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p C e t i o l 3 600 b ) C e r a m i d e Complex CLR ( P ) Manufacture: M i x a ) a t room t e m p e r a t u r e i n t h e o r d e r g i v e n ; Add b ) t o a ) w i t h slow s t i r r i n g . P e r f u m e . SOURCE: Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i u m D r . K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Weight% 20.00 30.00 35.70 0.30 4.00 10.00

Beauty Aids

49

Clear Facial Cleansing Gel A c l e a r , m i l d foaming f a c i a l cleanser s u i t a b l e f o r a t u b e o r pump p a c k a g i n g . The J o r d a p o n A C I - 3 0 p r o v i d e s e x c e l l e n t f o a m i n g , g e n t l e c l e a n s i n g , and a s o f t , smooth a f t e r f e e l on t h e s k i n .

I n q r e d i e n t ( T r a d e Name): Dei o n i z e d W a t e r H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( M e t h o c e l 40-100) Triethanolamine Na4EDTA C i t r i c A c i d , 50% I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a ( G e r m a l l 11 5 )

_-W t % 51.40 0.20 0.05 0.10 0.05 0.15

B

Dei o n i zed Water TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t e p a n o l WAT) M e t h y l Paraben PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e (Mapeg 6000DS)

20 I O 0 3.50 0.15 0.50

C

Ammonium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( J o r d a p o n ACI-30) C o c a m i d o p r o p y l H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e ( M a f o CSB-50) Soyami de DEA (Mazami de SS-10) Cocami de DEA (Mazami de JT-128)

16.80 4.00 1.50 1.50

D

Fragrance C i t r i c Acid,

___ Part: A

0.10 Q .S

50%

pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : 1 8 , 9 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d # 3 @ 3 rpm) A p p e a r a n c e : C1 e a r , v i s c o u s ye1 l o w 1 iq u i d Procedure: Disperse t h e hydroxypropyl methylcellulose i n t h e p a r t A w a t e r , s t i r r i n g f o r a b o u t t e n m i n u t e s . Add t h e Na4EDTA and t h e t r i e t h a n o l ami ne; c o n t i nue m i x i n g f o r a b o u t 20 m i n u t e s t o e n s u r e c o m p l e t e h y d r a t i o n . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , p r e m i x t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t i n g t o 65C t o d i s s o l v e t h e Mapeg 6000DS. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . Add t h e f r a g r a n c e and a d j u s t t h e pH.

SOURCE: PPG i n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc.:

F o r m u l a t i o n K-103

50

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioning Skin Mousse

YO b y WeighJ

Formula:

A: C e l q u a t L-200 D i s t i l l e d Water Propylene Glycol Triethanolamine Preservative B: Carnation Mineral A c e t u l an Amerchol L-101 Emerest 2407 C e t y l A1 coho1 S t e a r i c A c i d XXX Crodanol I P M C: Fragrance

0.50 89.10 2.00 0.50 q.s.

Oi 1 ( W i t c o )

2.00 0.50 1 .50 0.75 0.25 1.00 2.00

a.s.

Procedure: D i s s o l v e C e l q u a t L-200 i n w a t e r , add remai n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f A w h i l e m i x i n g . H e a t t o 7 5 C . P r e p a r e B and h e a t t o 75C. When each i s u n i f o r m , add B t o A . C o o l . Add C when 35C. F i 1 1 . Silky Blush

Formula: Pigment SF1 21 4 S i 1 i cone F1 u i d O r g a s o l 2002 Crodamol PMP W h i t e F o n o l i ne P e t r o l a t u m (Wi t c o ) C r o s i l k Powder ( C r o d a ) Magnesium S t e a r a t e - D ( W i t c o )

%. -

b y Wei q h t 30.00 27.00 25.00 7.00 5.60 5.00 0.40

Procedure: B l e n d p i g m e n t powders and add SF1214. Use h i g h s h e a r t o w e t powders e v e n l y . Add Crodamol PMP and c o n t i n u e h i g h s h e a r . Add W h i t e F o n o l i n e P e t r o l a t u m and p r e s s i n t o s u i t a b l e m o l d . T h i s i s a s i l k y p r e s s e d b l u s h t h a t c a n b e smoothed on w i t h a b r u s h o r by hand.

SOURCE:

W i t c o C o r p , : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t ions

Beauty Aids

51

Cooling Facial Balm Ingredients: Weight% Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 M e t h y l g l u c o s e D i s t e a r a t e (Tego C a r e 4 5 0 ) 2.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) 2.0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 2.5 Cetearyl Isononanoate (Tegosoft C I ) 1. o Phase E : P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Water

72.6

Phase C: O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) Carbomer ETD 2 0 5 0 Ethanol C y c l omet h i c o n e

3.5 0.2 10.0 4.0

1 .8

Phase D : Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % s o l u t i o n ) Phase E : Fragrance ( s u i t a b l e f o r f a c i a l P r e s e r v a t iv e s

0.4 product)

Procedure: 1 . H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o 80C. 2 . H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o 80C. 3 . Add A t o B o r B t o A w i t h o u t s t i r r i n g . 4. Stir. 5 . D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r add t o A / B . 6 . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . 7 . Add E t h a n o l and C y c l o m e t h i c o n e . 8 . Add Phase D / E . S t i r . 9 . Mix u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i s c o r r e c t .

Q.S. Q.S.

Homogenize.

SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p , : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

52

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cream Eye Shadow Inpredients: A: S t e a r i c Acid G1 y c e r y l S t e a r a t e C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l and C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 ( P r o m u l g e n D ) C a n d e l i11 a Wax Myri sty1 Myri s t a t e D i m e t h i c o n e (DC 200 F l u i d , 350 c s t k ) Propylparaben

W t .%* 3.00 2 .oo 1.oo 1 .oo 1 .oo 0.50 0.10

8:

34.30

D e i o n i z e d Water U1 t r a m a r i n e s (C43-1810 C o s m e t i c B1 u e ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (C47-5175 C o s m e t i c W h i t e )

C: M i c a ( a n d ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( T i m i c a P e a r l W h i t e )

6.00 1 .50 5.00

30 . O O 4.00

D:

D e i o n i z e d Water PVP ( P V P K - 6 0 )

E:

Propylene Glycol H y d r o x y P r o p y l M e t h y l C e l l u l o s e ( M e t h o c e l 40-202) Veegum, Magnesi urn A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e

F : D e i o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne, 99% P h e n o x y e t h a n o l (Dowanol EPh) EDTA ( V e r s e n e 1 0 0 ) S i m e t h i c o n e ( A n t i f o a m AF E m u l s i o n )

5.00 0.20 0.50 2.00 1.20 0.50 0.10 0.05

1 .oo 0.05

G : D e i o n i z e d Water Quaternium-15 (Dowici 1 200)

Procedure: Weigh t h e P a r t B and P a r t D w a t e r i n t o a b e a k e r . Add Veegum and m i x f o r 20 m i n . u s i n g a h o m o g e n i z e r a t 5000 r p m . D i s p e r s e t h e M e t h o c e l i n P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l , add t o t h e b a t c h and m i x f o r 10 m i n . a t 5000 rpm. Weigh a n d m i x t o g e t h e r P a r t F , add t h e m t o t h e b a t c h and m i x f o r 5 m i n . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t B and m i x f o r 5 m i n . Add t h e PVP and m i x 2 m i n . H e a t t h e b a t c h t o 80C, m i x and h e a t P a r t A t o 80C. Add P a r t A t o t h e b a t c h and m i x f o r 10 m i n . a t 5000 rpm. T r a n s f e r t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and b e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 60C add P a r t C and c o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and m i x i n g s l o w l y . A t 45C m i x P a r t G i n g r e d i e n t s and add them t o t h e b a t c h . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , C h e m i c a l Co.

Inc.:

Veegum F o r m u l a f r o m Dow

Beauty Aids

53

Creamy Lipstick (Summer Mauve) Formu ~ _ 1a_:

_ ~ A: Ozokerite P o l y e t h y l ene Wax W h i t e P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m (Vi1 t c o ) Mal e a t e d Soybean O i 1 D i i s o p r o p y l Adi p a t e C12-15 A1 k y l L a c t a t e T r i d e c y l Neopentanoate Myri sty1 Lactate Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Hydrogen a t e d Po 1 y b ut e ri e Isopropylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben (and) B u t y l paraben B: D&C Red # 7 C a l c i u m Lake T i t a n i um D i o x i d e I r o n O x i d e ( C o s m e t i c Red) I r o n Oxide (Cosmetic Yellow) C: Mica B i srnuth O x y c h l o r i d e M i c a ( a n d ) B i s m u t h O x y c h l o r i d e ( a n d ) Carmine

?/o b y W e i g h t

~~

7.4 6.2 10.3 2.0 3.1 7.2 7.2 10.0 11 . o 6.2 0.4 1.2 6.8 0.5 0.5

5.0

5.0 10.0

Procedure: Heat A t o 95C u n t i l c l e a r . Cool t o 85C. Add B . M i x 30 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 8 0 C . Add C . M i x 30 r n j n u t e s and f i 1 1 . Petrolatum Stick/Lip Balm Formula: W h i t e P r o t o p e t 1 s P e t r o l a t u m (\Vi t c o ) Syncrowax HGLC Syncrowax ERLC

%-.!a .We i s h 2 35.0 12.0 3.0

Procedure: Combine t h e W h i t e P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m a n d t h e waxes. M i x w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 8OC. Cool t o 65-706: and p o u r . C h i l l t h e m o l d s t o 40C p r i o r t o p o u r i n g .

SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

54

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Enriched Emollient Liquid Makeup The c o m b i n a t i o n o f Veegum and C e l l u l o s e Gum i n t h i s f o r m u l a p r o v i d e s s y n e r g i s t i c r h e o l o g i c a l e f f e c t s i n c l u d i n g t h i c k e n i n g and s t a b i l i z a t i o n o f t h e e m u l s i o n and s u s p e n s i o n o f t h e p i g m e n t s . The u n u s u a l l y h i g h c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f s e v e r a l e m o l l i e n t s p r o v i d e s an e n r i c h e d l i q u i d makeup t h a t s p r e a d s s m o o t h l y and e a s i l y and c o v e r s we1 1 w i t h o u t t a c k y a f t e r f e e l . Inaredient : Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e C e l l u l o s e Gum (CMC-7MF) Dei o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% G l y c e r e t h - 2 6 ( L i p o n i c EG-1) Methylparaben

W t .%*

B: Titanium Dioxide

10.00 3.15 1.97

0.70 0.25 42.28 0.75 10.50 0.30

A:

Talc I r o n Oxides C:

Isopropyl Isostearate M i n e r a l O i 1 (and) Lanol i n Alcohol

(Amerchol

L-1 01 )

Isopropyl Palmitate Isopropyl Myri s t a t e H y d r o g e n a t e d Soy G l y c e r i d e ( M y v e r o l 18-06) Stearic Acid D i o c t y l Adipate (and) O c t y l S t e a r a t e (and) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( W i c k e n o l 161 ( 1 . 1 % b y w t ) & W i c k e n o l 163 ( 1 . 0 % b y w t ) Vanseal CS , C o c o y l S a r c o s i n e L i t h i um S t e a r a t e Propylparaben B u t y lparaben

10.00 6.50 4.00 2.50 2.10 1.60 2.10 1.oo 0.10 0.10 0.10

Procedure: H e a t t h e w a t e r t o 70 t o 75C. Add t h e Veegum and m i x a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r u n t i l smooth. S l o w l y m i x i n r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . Mix P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s thoroughly i n t o A u n t i l u n i f o r m . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 70 t o 75C. H e a t P a r t C t o 70 t o 75C and add t o P a r t s A+B. M i x w h i l e c o o l i n g . *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE:

R.T.Vanderbilt Co., I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n No. 433

Beauty Aids

Exfoliant Scrub M a t e r i a1 : Water, Pure G l y c e r i n e BP Light Mineral O i l P o l y e t h y l e n e Spheres AEC I s o c e t y l S t e a r a t e GMS s / e , A c i d S t a b l e ESO Volpo cs20 AEC C e t y l P a l m i t a t e AEC D e c y l O l e a t e C a r b o p o l 940 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% Phenoni p S u p e r h a r t o l an Fragrance

%w/w 68.500 5.000 5.000 5.000 5.000 3.000 3.000 2.000 1.ooo 0.800 0.500 0.500 0 500 0.200 I

Foermul a R e f . : 1051 * O Exfoliating Foot Scrub M a t e r i a1 : Water; Pure Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (SLES) AEC C o r n Cob G r a n u l e s Veegum Regul a r Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne Cocamide CDE E.O. Peppermint B r o n i d o x L/15 EDTA, D i s o d i u m S a l t C.S. FD&C Y e l l o w No. 5; 1% S o l n E . O . Tea T r e e C . S . FD&C B l u e No. 1; 1% S o l n M y a c i d e SP L a c t i c Acid, N a t u r a l F o r m u l a R e f . : 1202*0

SOURCE: A&E C o n n o c k L t d . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

%w/w 44.810 40.000 5.000 4.000 3.000 2.000 0.200 0.200 0.200 0.170 0.150 0.135 0.100 0.035

55

56

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Exfoliant Scrub Quanti t

Staae M a t e r i a l :

v

Oil Phase: 1 Light Mineral O i l 5 . OOOg 2 AEC I s o c e t y l S t e a r a t e 5 . OOOg 3 . OOOg 3 GMS s / e , A c i d S t a b l e ESO 4 Volpo cs20 3 . OOOg 5 AEC D e c y l O l e a t e 1.ooog 6 AEC C e t y l P a l m i t a t e 2 . ooog 7 S u p e r h a r t o l an 0.5009 Aqueous Phase: 8 Water, Pure 68.5009 9 G l y c e r i n e BP 5 . OOOg 10 C a r b o p o l 940 0,8009 11 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% 0.5009 12 P h e n o n i p 0.5009 C o o l in g C y c l e : 13 P o l y e t h y l e n e S p h e r e s 5 . OOOg 0 * 2oog 14 F r a g r a n c e Mixing Instructions: The O i l Phase i s added t o t h e Aqueous a t 70C w i t h m i x i n g . M i x i n g i s c o n t i n u e d w h i l e c o o l i n g , and t h e g e n t l y e x f o l i a t i n g P o l y e t h y l e n e S p h e r e s added b e l o w 40C. Do n o t homogenise o r use h i g h shear m i x i n g a f t e r t h e a d d i t i o n o f t h e P o l y e t h y l e n e Spheres. The h i g h e s t e r c o n t e n t b a s e w i l l s o f t e n s k i n and a s s i s t t h e g e n t l e e x f o l i a t i n g a c t i o n o f t h e P o l y e t h y l e n e S p h e r e s . The s p h e r e s a r e a v a i l a b l e i n a v a r i e t y o f c o l o u r s making i t p o s s i b l e t o formulate very interesting products. SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d . : P r o j e c t JW 2 4 6 1 / F o r m u l a R e f . : 1051*0

Foaming Facial Cleanser A r i c h p e a r l e s c e n t l o t i o n w i t h r a p i d f l a s h f o a m i n g and g e n t l e c l e a n s i n g , w h i c h l e a v e s t h e s k i n s o f t and smooth. Part: I n g r e d i e n t ( T r a d e Name) : A Dei o n i zed Water 38.7 Propylene Glycol 10.0 Sodium I s e t h i o n a t e , 56% ( W i t c o n a t e N I S ) 9.0 TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t e p a n o l WAT) 2.5 C o c a m i d o p r o p y l Amine O x i d e (Mazox CAPA) 16.0 B Sodium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d (Jordapon CI-75) 19.3 Sodium T a l l o w a t e ( a n d ) Sodium C o c o a t e (Bradpride Chip) 2.5 2.0 S t e a r i c A c i d ( H y s t r e n e 5016) pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : 2 . 4 x 10 6 c p s Firm white paste Procedure: Blend t h e p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e main v e s s e l , h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. Add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m a i n t a i n i n g tempe r a t u r e . Mix a t temperature u n t i l a l l s o l i d s are dissolved, a b o u t 30 m i n u t e s . S t i r - c o o l t o 40-45C and a d j u s t p H i f n e c e s s a r y . SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c , : F o r m u l a K-104

Beauty Aids

57

Exfoliating Foot Scrub

S t a q g Mate-r l a 1 1 Pre-Mix 1 1 E . O . Tea T r e e 2 E . O . Peppermint 3 Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a 1 ne

Q u a n t i ty 0.150g 0.200g 3.OOOg

Stage A : 4 Water; Pure 5 Myacide SP 6 EDTA, D i s o d i u m S a l t 7 Broriidox L / l 5 8 Veegum R e g u l a r

44.8108 0.1oog 0.200g 0.2009 0.400g

Stage B : 9 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l p h a t e (SLES)

4 0 . OOOg

Stage C : 1 0 AEC C o r n Cob G r a n u l e s 1 1 Cocamide CDE 12 C . S . FD&C Y e l l o w N o . 5 ; 1% S o l n 1 3 C . S . FD&C B l u e No. 1 ; 1 % S o l n 1 4 L a c t i c Acid; N a t u r a l

5 . OOOg 2 . ooog 0.17Og 0.1359 0,0359

M i x i ng I n s t r u c t io n s : T h i s F o o t S c r u b h a s a c l e a n s i n y and g e n t l e e x f o l i a t i n g a c t i o n , The Tea T r e e o i l i s a n a t u r a l f u n g i c i d e , t h e p e p p e r m i n t o i l h a s a n a t u r a l c o o l i n g a c t . i o n and t h e C o r n Cob G r a n u l e s e x f o l i a t e r o u g h and dead s k i n . 1 . M e t e r o u t t h e w a t e r and s t a r t h e a t i n g . Add Myacide/EDTA/ B r o n i dox 2 . C o n t i n u e h e a t i n g & d i s p e r s e t h e Veeyum; h e a t t o 60/65C t o o b t a i n a smooth p a s t e , s w i t c h o f f h e a t . 3 . While m i x i n g v e r y c a r e f u l l y t o a v o i d foaming s l o w l y & caref u l l y add Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e . T h i s b r i n g s t h e t e m p e r a t u r e down t o a p p r o x . 4 5 C . C o n t i n u e m i x - i n g u n t i l a smooth p a s t e (about 30 mins. ) . 4 . S e p a r a t e l y m i x t o g e t h e r Tea T r e e / P e p p e r m i n t O i l and Cocamidop r o p y l B e t a i n e and add t o m a i n m i x . 5 . W h i l e s t i l l l i q u i d s t i r i n t h e AEC C o r n Cob G r a n u l e s f o l l o w e d b y Cocamide D E A w h i c h w i l l t h i c k e n t h e p r o d u c t . 6 . M a t c h c o l o u r , a d j u s t pH t o 7 . 5 - 8 . 5 , s t i r u n t i l p r o d u c t t h i c k e n s t o a v o i d C o r n Cob G r a n u l e s f l o a t i n g t o t h e s u r f a c e . I

SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d , : P r o j e c t JW2566/Formula R e f . 1202*0

58

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Extra Light W/O Emulsion Ingredients: Weight% O i l Phase: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i 1 WE-09) 4.0 1.o C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9 8 0 1 ) Dimethicone (350 c s ) 1.0 0.2 Beeswax Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0.2 9.0 Cyclomethicone O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 4.0 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) 3.0 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e g o s o f t M) 4.0 W a t e r Phase: Water 72.8 NaCl 0.8 P r e s e r v a t i v e s , Color, Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f t h e o i l p h a s e t o g e t h e r . H e a t t o m e l t and d i s p e r s e t h e waxes. When d i s p e r s e d , m a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e O f 50-60C. 2 . M i x t h e w a t e r and s o d i u m c h l o r i d e . H e a t t o 50-60C. 3 . W i t h l i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g , s t r e a m t h e w at er phase i n t o t h e o i l phase. 4 . W i t h sweep a g i t a t i o n , c o o l t o 3 5 C . 5 . Add c o l o r , f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e s . 6 . Homogenize w i t h a r o t o - s t a t o r h o m o g e n i z e r . Pearlescent Eye Shadow Ingredients: Wei a h t % Phase A : Talc 44.40 Silica 4.00 K a o l in 14.00 8.00 Mica I r o n Oxides 18.00 U1 t r a r n a r i ne 81 ue 4.00 Methylparaben 0.25 Propylparaben 0.15 Phase 9: C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) 4.20 Behenoxy D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 2440) 1 .oo 0.25 Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 2 0 ) Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol (and) Dimethicone 1.75 ( A b i l OSW 1 2 ) Q.S. Fragrance Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A i n a b l e n d e r . M i x u n t i 1 uniform. 2 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B . Warm i f n e c e s s a r y t o d i s p e r s e t h e A b i l Wax 2440. M i x . Add t o A . R e b l e n d . 3. Press i n t o godets. SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

59

Eye Mascara

F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s mascara p r o v i d e s a q u i c k d r y i n g i n i t i a l e f f e c t . The p r o d u c t i s s i l k y t o t h e l a s h e s and smudge p r o o f . O i l Phase: Wt% S i l i c o n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 7.50 PEG Carnauba ( K o s t e r Keunen) 7.50 G l y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e (Wi t c o ) 2.75 Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2.00 S t e a r i c A c i d ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 .oo P a r a f f i n 1 5 0 / 1 5 5 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 .50 M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne W445 (Wi t c o ) 1.50 P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) 0.30 Water Phase: Water ( D e i o n i z e d ) 58.45 Sodium B o r a t e ( B o r a x ) 1.20 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l (BASF) 1 .oo C a r b o p o l 2% S o l u t i o n ( B . F . G o o d r i c h ) 1 .oo A 1 coho1 Phase: A l c o h o l SDA 30 (Quantum) 10.00 P u r i f i e d Black Oxide (Clarke) 4.00 Procedure: Heat t h e o i l phase and w a t e r phase t o 75C. Add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r p h a s e . Cool t o 40C and add t h e p r e m i x e d a l c o h o l phase. C o o l . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : A v a r i e t y o f pigments can be s u b s t i t u t e d t o s u i t t h e p r o d u c t ' s n e e d s . V i s c o s i t y c a n be a l t e r e d b y r e d u c i n g s o l i d s and i n c r e a s i n g w a t e r phase.

Powder Formula Formul a t i n g D e s i gn and A d v a n t a g e s : B i n d e r s y s t e m s u t i 1 i z i n g t h e s i 1 i c o n e o i 1 / C e r a A1 b a l a t e 103 g e l p r o d u c e s a d r y n o n - o i l y s k i n f e e l . These t y p e o f p r o d u c t s a l s o have h i g h s t r u c t u r a l i n t e g r i t y and can w i t h s a t n d f i v e d r o p s f r o m one t o t w o f e e t . B i nder: W32? S i l i c o n e O i l 3.45 (Dow) 60.0 H e x a n e d i o l B e h e n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 40.0 P r e s s e d Powder: C o s m e t i c Tan C33-130 (Sun C h e m i c a l ) 13.0 T a l c ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) 47.0 B i n d e r ( K o s t e r Keunen) 40.0 Procedure: Homogenize and p r e s s i n c o n t a i n e r a t 1 0 0 0 p s i f o r 15-20 seconds. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : O t h e r o i l s a n d / o r waxes c a n b e s u b s t i t u t e d i n t o t h e b i n d e r s y s t e m . I n t h e f i n a l p r o d u c t , p i g m e n t s and c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f b i n d e r can e a s i l y be a l t e r e d t o produce v a r y i n g degrees o f c r e a m i n e s s and f i r m n e s s o f t h e p o w d e r . SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : A G u i d e t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g

60

Cosmetic and Toiletry Fornzulations

Eye Shadow

Phase# : 1

T a l c 141 L i t h i um s t e a r a t e K a o l i n 2457 Microcel E M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben B i r o n ESQ (BiOC1) Conventional Pigments

W B q.s. 2.50 5.00 0.50 0.20 0.10 see b e l ow s e e b e l ow

2

P e a r l e s c e n t Pigment

see b e l ow

3 3 3

Amerchol L-1 01 S u p e r H a r t o l an White Petrolatum

11 - 0 0 1.oo 1 .oo

Procedure: Combine p h a s e # 1 . P u l v e r i z e w i t h a hammer m i l l , p a s s i n g t w i c e t h r o u g h a 0 . 0 2 7 " h e r r i n g bone s c r e e n . A d d p h a s e # 2 w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n . Combine p h a s e # 3 . H e a t t o 70C. S p r a y o n t o b a t c h w h i l e a g i t a t i n g b u l k . Pass e n t i r e b a t c h t h r o u g h a jump g a p . Combi n a t io n s : P3-83-1 : 1 B i r o n ESQ 3.00 1 B l a c k I r o n Oxide (7133) 5.00 1 Red I r o n O x i d e ( 7 0 5 4 ) 2.00 1 Yellow I r o n Oxide (7055)3.00 2 C o l o r o n a Chameleon 60.00 P3-83-3: 3.00 1 B i r o n ESQ 1 B l a c k I r o n Oxide (7133) 0.75 1 Red I r o n O x i d e ( 7 0 5 4 ) 3.00 1 Yellow I r o n Oxide (7055)6.25 2 C o l o r o n a C o.m. e r 60.00 P3-83-5: 1 B i r o n ESQ 0.20 1 B i c r o n a Carmine 14.00 2 C o l o r o n a Bordeaux 60.00 P3-83-7: 1 B i r o n ESQ 3.00 1 B l a c k I r o n O x i d e (7133) 0.50 1 Manganese V i o l e t ( 7 1 01 ) 2 . 0 0 2 C o l o r o n a Magenta 55.00 P3-83-9: 1 B i r o n ESQ 2.60 1 B l a c k I r o n O x i d e (7133) 0 . 5 0 1 Bicrona I r o n Blue 2.00 2 Colorona Dark B l u e 55.00 SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

P3-83-2: 1 B i r o n ESQ 3.00 1 B l a c k I r o n O x i de (7133) 1 . 0 0 1 Red I r o n O x i d e ( 7 0 5 4 ) 5.40 1 Yellow I r o n Oxide (7055)3.60 2 Colorona Sienna 60.00 P3-83-4: 1 B i r o n ESQ 3.00 1 B l a c k I r o n O x i de (7133) 0.50 1 Yellow I r o n Oxide (7055)9.50 2 Colorona Bronze 60.00 P3-83-6: 1 B i r o n ESQ 0.20 1 Bicrona I r o n Blue 14.00 2 C o l o r o n a Bordeaux 60.00 P3-83-8: 3.00 1 B i r o n ESQ 1 B l a c k I r o n O x i de (7133) 0 . 5 0 1 Chromium H y d r a t e 2.00 2 D i c h r o n a BG 55.00

I n c . : Formulation

P3-83

Beauty Aids

61

Facial Cleanser with Pemulen TR-2 Polymer Emulsifier and Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer T h i s c l e a n s i n g f o r m u l a t i on is 1 ig h t , n o n - g r e a s y and w a t e r r i n s a b l e . I t provides thorough cleansing without d r y i n g t h e s k i n . Ingredients: Part A: Dei o n i z e d W a t e r M i ranol U l t r a D o w i c i l 200 Methylparaben Propylparaben

Weight 89.55 1 .oo 0.10 0.10 0.05

P a r t 6: F i n s o l v SB B e r n e l E s t e r DOM Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride W i c k e n o l 171 Pemulen TR-2 C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 10

4.00 2.00 1 .oo 1.oo 0.20 0.60

Part C: AMP-95

0.40

Procedure: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e f o r m u l a t i o n . M i x t o d i s s o l v e D o w i c i l 200. 2 . Combine P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . M i x t o d i s p e r s e any s o f t lumps o f Pemulen and C a r b o p o l p o l y m e r . 3 . W i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n , add t h e P a r t B s l u r r y t o P a r t A . M i x f o r 10-20 m i n u t e s t o a l l o w p o l y m e r s t o s w e l l . 4 . Add P a r t C and m i x v i g o r o u s l y t o p r o d u c e a smooth, w h i t e cream. P r o p e r t i es : pH: 5 . 6 - 6 . 0 V i s c o s i t y * ( c P s ) a t 25C: 2 8 , 0 0 0 - 3 5 , 0 0 0 * B r o o k f i e l d RVT @ 20 r p m , #6 s p i n d l e

SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l C o . : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y : F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0368 s u g g e s t e d b y 8.F . G o o d r i c h (UOOOS)

62

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Facial Scrub Ingredient: Wt% Carbomer 940 (2%) 15.00 D e i o n i z e d Water 57.75 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 2.50 A l o e V e r a Gel 0.25 C y c l o m e t h i cone 5.00 B O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i l 2.50 B S t e a r i c A c i d XXX 3.50 B Promulgen D 1 .oo B Isopropyl Myri s t a t e 10.00 C T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% 1 .oo D P o l y e t h y l e n e AC-SA 1.50 E P r e s e r v a t iv e QS M a n u f a c t u r i n g Procedure: Phase A : D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l i n t o w a t e r w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 75C. Add P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l and A l o e V e r a G e l . Phase 8 : Heat o i l phase t o 75C and add t o w a t e r p h a s e . Phase C : Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e t o o i l / w a t e r m i x t u r e and c o o l t o 40C. Phase D / E : Add P o l y e t h y l e n e A C - S A . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e . Carbomer 940 i s t h e s u s p e n d i n g a g e n t . T h i s s c r u b i s d e s i g n e d f o r p e o p l e w i t h o i l y s k i n and needs t o have a d r y i n g e f f e c t . Uses t w o v e r y d r y emollients-cyclomethicone and i s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e . They l e a v e a d r y f e e l i n g s k i n . The O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i l l e a v e s t h e s k i n w i t h a f r e s h , m o i s t a f t e r f e e l . K u k u i N u t O i l w o u l d a l s o work v e r y w e l l i n t h i s f o r m u l a . SOURCE: O i 1 s o f A1 oha : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t io n Phase: A A A A B

Facial Cleansing Gel WtOA, D e i o n i z e d Water 60.90 Sodium PCA 0.10 Carbomer 940 ( 2 % A q . ) 25.00 TEA-Lauryl S u l f a t e 2 .oo Cocami d e DEA (Phoenami d CD) 2.50 2.00 S i l i c o n e Q u a t e r n i u m - 6 ( P e c o s i l SPB-1240) PEG-3 D i s t e a r a t e ( P h o e n a t e BDSA) 1.50 Propylene G l y c o l 5.00 8: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben 1 .oo Color q.s. Fragrance q.s. Procedure: Combine Phase A i t e m s , a g i t a t e and h e a t t o 70C. When Phase A i s u n i f o r m , b e g i n c o o l i n g u n d e r s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n t o 45C. Add Phase B w i t h c o n t i n u e d s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y sweep AB u n t i l u n i f o r m . SOURCE: P h o e n i x C h e m i c a l ,

Inc.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Beauty Aids

Gel with MPC-Liposomes MPC-Mi 1k P e p t i d e Complex: MPC c o n t a i n s n a t u r a l p o l y p e p t i d e s f r o m m i l k , i n a c t i v a t e d f o r m . A p r o t e c t i v e e n v i ronment e x c l u s i v e l y compri sed o f m i 1k components s u c h a s l a c t a l b u m i n , l a c t o g l o b u l i n , l a c t o f e r r i n , l a c t o s e and l a c t a t e p r o v i d e s f o r p r o d u c t s t a b i l i t y and mai n t e n a n c e o f b i o a c t i v i t y B i o a c t i v i t y is s t a n d a r d i z e d in e v e r y b a t c h o f MPC t o a r e p r e s e n t a t i v e c o n c e n t r a t i o n r a n g e (EC50). I n v i t r o b i o a s s a y s i n c e l l c u l t u r e s and i n v i v o t e s t s on e p i t h e l i a l t i s s u e and on human s k i n g i v e p r o o f o f t h e b i o a c t i v i t y and c o s m e t i c b e n e f i t s o f M P C .

.

a ) H i s p a g e l 200 W a t e r , d i s t i 11 ed K e l t r o l , 1% s o l u t i o n C e t i o l J 600 Phenoni p

20.00 20.70 30.00 4.00

b ) MPC-Liposomes

25.00

0.30

( 2 % MPC)

Manufacture: M i x a ) a t room t e m p e r a t u r e ; S l o w l y add b ) t o a ) and c o m b i n e . Perfume.

SOURCE: Chemisches L a b o r a t i u m D r . K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH:

Formula

Body Moisturiser with Wild Borage Oil Material : Water; Pure P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l USP AEC D e c y l O l e a t e Cocoa B u t t e r , R e f ined Tego C a r e 450 AEC D i i s o s t e a r y l T r i m e t h y l o l p r o p a n e S i l o x y S i 1 i c a t e GMS NSE Sodium PCA Cetearyl Alcohol W i I d Borage O i 1 N i p a g u a r d BPX Fragrance X a n t h a n Gum L a c t i c Acid; Natural SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d . :

Formula R e f . :

1052*0

%w/w 76.560 5.000 4.000 3.000 3.000 2.000 2.000 1.500 1.ooo 1 .ooo 0.500 0.300 0.125 0.015

63

64

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hand and Body Moisturizer Formu 1 a : ____ A: Benol M i n e r a l O i l E s t o l EHP 1543 P r i s t e r i ne 4904 E s t o l 1462 M y r j 52 A b i l B8852 Lanolin O i 1

% bv W e i g h t

7.00 2 .oo 3.50 3.00 1 .oo 1.oo 0.20

(Witco)

B: Dei o n i z e d W a t e r 79.60 Triethanolamine 1.30 P r i c e r i ne 9083 2.00 Dermacryl -79 1.oo C: C a r b o p o l 934 0.20 D: Germaben 1 1 - E 1-00 E: 0.20 F r a g r a n c e 04696 ( Q u e s t ) Procedure: Combine A i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 80C. I n s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , m i x w a t e r , P r i c e r i n e and TEA. W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add D e r m a c r y l . H e a t t o 50C and add C s l o w l y . When each p o r t i o n i s u n i f o r m , add A t o B/C and m i x 15 m i n s . ; c o o l t o 40C. Add D and E and cool t o room t e m p . Liquid Makeup -__-_ Formula: A:

"/,by W e i g h t

G e l w h i t e GP 1.2 K e l t r o l X a n t h a n Gum 0.2 Propylene Glycol 3.0 T r i e t h a n o l a m i ne 1.o Water 58.4 E: I r o n Oxides 1.2 3.0 Talc T i t a n i um D i o x i de 6.0 C: Carnation M i neral O i 1 ( W i tco) 10.0 Isopropyl Palmitate 5.0 Nimlesterol D Mineral O i l 5.0 6.0 Oleic Acid Preservatives 9,s. Procedure: S l o w l y add G e l w h i t e CP t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum s h e a r . Add K e l t r o l s l o w l y and m i x a t m o d e r a t e speed u n t i l smooth. Add p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and TEA w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h medium s h e a r . B l e n d B and g r i n d i n m o r t a r w i t h a p o r t i o n o f A u n t i l w e l l m i x e d . Combine w i t h r e m a i n d e r o f A and h e a t t o 60C. Combine C and h e a t t o 65C. Add C t o A/B; c o n t i n u e s l o w m i x i n g u n t i l t e m p . d r o p s t o 30C. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e s . SOURCE : W i t c o C o r p , : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t ions

Beauty Aids

65

Lipcare Emollient Lipstick

%w/w

Phase A : Anhydrous 1 a n o l i n P95 A r g o n o l 50 Mineral o i l Beeswax Cetyl alcohol Ozokerite Candel i 11 a wax Preservative

14.00 5.00 40.00 5.00 6.00 2.00 8.00 qs

Phase 0 : Colour pigments i n c a s t o r o i l : T i t a n i um d i o x i d e D&C r e d 6 Timica pearl white

5.00 1 .oo 4.00

Phase C : F r a g r a n c e o r f 1a v o u r H e a t t o g e t h e r A u n t i l c l e a r , add B and m i x w e l l . A d j u s t t o 60C, t h e n add C . Pour i n t o m o u l d s . * A g l o s s y l i p s t i c k w i t h good s p r e a d a b i l i t y . Medicated Lip Balm

%w/w Beeswax USP P a r a f f in wax 1 3 0 / 1 3 5 F i n s o l v TN AC P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 Camphor

10.00 10.00 54.00 6.00 20 * 00

Combine t h e f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 90-95C w h i l e m i x i n g . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 80-85C. Add t h e camphor and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Cool o n c e more, t o 40-45C. P o u r i n t o moulds. *A s o l i d w h i t e s t i c k t h a t r u b s e a s i l y o n t o t h e l i p s . I t i m p a r t s a n o n - g r e a s y , e m o l l i e n t f e e l t o chapped 1 i p s .

SOURCE: A1 1 ie d - S i g n a l

,

I n c . : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t i o n s

66

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Lipcare Lip Pomade

xw/w

Phase A : A n h y d r o u s L a n o l in P95 Lanesta S Petroleum j e l l y Mineral o i l Ozokerite Iropropyl myri s t a t e P a r a f f i n wax

10.00 18.00 12.00 38.00 5.00 10.00 7-00

Phase B : F r a g r a n c e o r f 1a v o u r Heat phase A u n t i l c l e a r . C o o l t o 45C t h e n add 0 . F i l l warm. * T h i s g i v e s a ' b u t t e r - l i k e ' p r o d u c t , w h i c h l i q u e f i e s on c o n t a c t w i t h t h e s k i n , m a k i n g a p p l i c a t i o n easy and g i v i n g emol 1 ie n t p r o t e c t i o n . Lip Gloss

%w/w

Phase A : A r g o n o l 50 A r g o n o l ACE 5 Carnauba wax Ozoker it e Candel i 11 a wax Castor o i l

8.10

3.00 3.60 7.00 6.00 t o 100.00

Phase 8 : Colour dispersed i n castor o i l Phase C : F r a g r a n c e o r f 1a v o u r H e a t t o g e t h e r A u n t i l c l e a r , t h e n add B, s t i r r i n g w e l l u n t i l f u l l y d i s p e r s e d . C o o l t o 50C and add C . F i l l warm. * A s o f t , smooth g l o s s t h a t p r o t e c t s , smoothes and g i v e s a 1 ig h t col o u r a

SOURCE: A l l i e d - S i g n a l

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

Lip Salve with Glycyrrhetinic Acid

%w/w 25.00 5.00 2.50 5.00 10.00 25.00 0.05 qs 0.50 10.00 1-00

PEG-45/dodecyl g l y c o l c o p o l y m e r Beeswax Jojoba o i l H y d r o g e n a t e d 1a n o l i n Cocoa b u t t e r Castor o i l Antioxidants G1 ycami 1 G1 y c y r r h e t in i c a c i d Zinc oxide T i t a n i um d i o x i d e F1 a v o u r

qs

M e l t t h e f i r s t seven i n g r e d i e n t s , t h e n add G l y c a m i l and t h e g l y c y r r h e t i n i c a c i d . D i s p e r s e t h e ZnO and T i 0 2 i n t h e m e l t e d in g r e d i e n t s . F i n a l 1y J add t h e f 1a v o u r m i x i n g u n t i 1 room temperature. Lip Salve Sunscreen

%w/w

21 . o o 15.00 10.65 10.25 10.00 8.50 6.50 6.00 5.00 4.00 2.50 0.50 0.10

Candel i 11 a wax W h i t e beeswax Eutanol G Lipex 205 canola o i 1 Cetyl alcohol L i p e x 102 shea b u t t e r C i t m o l 316 TM L i p e x 106 I l l i p e ' b u t t e r P a r s o l MCX L i p e x 104 L i p e x 203 mango k e r n a l o i 1 Benzophenone-3 Propyl paraben Heat t o g e t h e r a l l t h e i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l c l e a r . c o n t a i n e r s a t 60C and c o o l .

Pour i n t o

Lip Fix

%w/w 70.00 10.00 20.00

Ethanol Dei o n i s e d w a t e r G a n t r e z ES-425 Simple mix.

SOURCE: A l l i e d - S i g n a l ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

67

68

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Lipstick

wt%

Phase # : 1 Castor O i l 1 C19-011 D&C Red#7 Ca Lake 1 C19-022 D&C Red#6 Ba Lake

7.00 1.50 1.50

2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2

Castor O i l Candel i11 a Carnauba O z o k e r i t e #77W M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 ine Wax #214 C a p r y l ic / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e M i n e r a l O i 1/9Ocs O c t y l Dodecyl S t e a r o y l S t e a r a t e O c t y l Dodecanol H y d r o x y l a t e d L a n o l in M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben

33.70 5.70 1.80 1.50 3.00 16.00 2 -00 5.00 5.00 1 .oo 0.20 0.10

3

P e a r l e s c e n t Pigment

15.00

Procedure: Combine p h a s e # l .S t i r w i t h a h i g h i n t e n s i t y m i x e r u n t i l homogeneous. Pass a c r o s s a t h r e e r o l l m i l l u n t i l a g g l o m e r a t e s a r e r e d u c e d t o l e s s t h a n 25 um. Combine p h a s e # 2 . H e a t t o 80-85C w i t h L i g h t n i n ' m i x e r a g i t a t i o n , s t i r r i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add p h a s e #1 Add p e a r l e s c e n t p i g m e n t ( p h a s e # 3 ) , mai n t a i n i n g a g i t a t i o n u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . Pour i n t o ambient temperature molds a t 72-74CI

.

Rona P e a r l Pigment C o m b i n a t i o n s : AN2-55-1 : T i m i r o n Super Red AN2-55-2 : T i m i r o n Super 61 u e AN2-55-3: T i m i r o n Super G o l d AN2-55-4 : T i m i r o n MP-1001 AN2-55-5: T i m i r o n MP-1500 AN2-55-6: C o l o r o n a Red Go1 d AN2-55-7: C o l o r o n a Red Brown Wax M e l t i n g P o i n t s : C a n d e l l i l a : 68.5-72.5C C a r n a u b a : 83C m i n i mum O z o k e r i t e #77W: 7 3 . 3 - 7 9 . 4 C M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 in e Wax #214: SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

71 . 1 - 7 6 . 7 C

Inc,:

F o r m u l a t i o n AN2-55

Beauty Aids

69

Lip Stick

I ng r ed ie n t s : A.

M i g l y o 1 840 ( P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l / D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ) S o f t i san 649* Beeswax Mineral O i l Castor O i l Carnaubawax T i m i r o n S i l k Red S i c o r e t Rot F 12150 Antioxidantien

Wei n h t % 10.00 4.00 9.00 2.00 60.00 5.00 9-00 1.oo Q . S .

B. F r a g r a n c e

9,s.

*Bi s-Di g l y c e r y l

Pol y a c y l a d i pate-2

Preparation: A i s m e l t e d and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. A t 50C B i s added and t h e mass i s p o u r e d i n t o m o l d s a t c a . 40C F o r m u l a t i o n HUK LST Lip Care Stick with Sunscreen Ingredients: S o f t i s a n 100 S o f t i san 649* D y n a c e r i n 660 ( O l e y l E r u c a t e ) Beeswax Carnaubawax Neo H e l i o p a n E 1000 Castor O i l

A.

Wei n h t % 40.00 14.00 12.00 15.00 2.00 2.00 15.00

q.s.

B. F r a g r a n c e

*

B i s-Di g l y c e r y l

Pol y a c y l a d i pate-2

P r e p a r a t ion : A i s m e l t e d and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. A t 50C B i s added and t h e mass i s p o u r e d i n t o m o l d s a t c a . 40C. Formul a t i on HUK LCST

SOURCE: H u l s A k t i e n g e s e l l s c h a f t : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

70

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Lipstick, Glossy Ingredients: WeIght% A) M i g l y o l Gel B (Caprylic/Capric T r i g l y c e r i d e (and) Stearalkoniurn Hecton'te (and) Propylene Carbonate) 14.00 M i g l y o l 829 (Caprylic/Capric/Succinic T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 8.00 Imwitor 78OK (Isostearyl Diglyceryl Succinate) 6.00 Softisan 645 (Bis-Diglycery1 P o l y a c r y 1 a d i p a t e - 1 ) 22.00 Polyisobutene 19.00 Lanoli n Wax 10.OO Na-Stearate 1 .00 C a n d e l i l i a Wax 8.00 Beeswax 7.00 B) T i m i r o n S t a r l i g h t Red (Mica (and) T i t a n i u m Dioxide)

5.00

Preparati on: (A) is melted and stirred u n t i l homogeneous up to 75 degrees C. At about 50 degrees C. (B) is added, and then the m i x t u r e is poured into molds. F o r m u l a t i o n 2.20 Lip Stick I ngredi ents: A) M i g l y o l 840 (Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/ Dicaprate) Softisan 649 ( B i s - D i g l y c e r y 1 Polyacy1adipate-2) Beeswax Mi neral O i l Castor O i l Carnauba Wax T i m i r o n S i l k Red (Mica (and) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ) Antioxidants B) Fragrance Tendresse 75418 B

Weight% 10.00 4.00 9.00 2.OO 60.OO 5.OO 10.00 q.s. q.s.

Preparati on i (A) is melted and stirred u n t i l homogeneous. At 50 degrees C, (B) is added and the mass is poured i n t o molds. F o r m u l a t i o n 2.2P SOURCE: HuIs America Inc.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

Lipstick "Soft and Moist" (Modified) Materials: 1 . O z o k e r i t e W h i t e 170 2 . Castorwax 3 . C a n d e l i l l a Wax, L i g h t R e f i n e d 4 . L e x o l PG 855 5 . Castor O i l 6. Propylparaben 7 . Tenox 4 8 . B e n t o n e Gel CAO R h e o l o g i c a l A d d i t i v e 9. Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e * 10.Perfume

% by Weight

*Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e : Castor O i l C o l o r N o . 3106 D&C Red No. 6

4.0 2.0 8.0 31 - 3 24.0 0.1 0.1 10.0 20.0 0.5 30.00 70.00

Manufacturing Directions: 1 . Weigh i t e m e 1 t h r o u g h 7 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e . H e a t t o 85C u n t i l m e l t e d c l e a r . 2 . B r i n g t e m p e r a t u r e down t o 80C. Add and m i x i n i t e m 8 u s i n g a homomixer a t medium speed. M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 80C. 3 . Add and m i x i t e m 9 f o r 5 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . 4 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t medium speed and l o w e r t e m p e r a t u r e t o 70C and add i t e m 1 0 . Remove h e a t and s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l congealed, o r pour i n t o t r a y s . 5 . When c a s t i n g , m e l t and p o u r m o l t e n mass i n t o m o l d a t 75C, w i t h slow a g i t a t i o n (avoid a i r entrapment). N o t e : F o r a s h i n y p o l i s h e d s u r f a c e on t h e l i p s t i c k , t h e s t i c k s s h o u l d be s u r f a c e f l a m e d . Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e P r e p a r a t i o n : 1 . Weigh d r y powder i n t o t h e c a s t o r o i l u s i n g a s l o w speed H o b a r t t y p e m i x e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 2 . G i v e t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e two passes o v e r a 3 r o l l m i l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e .

SOURCE: Rheox I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n Lipstick Base Wt%- 1 Wt%-2 A-C 617 8 7 Acetylated Lanolin 16 16 2 - E t h y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 6 7 Ozokerite 20 20 M i n e r a l O i l ( 7 5 SS) 50 50 Procedure : Weigh o u t a l l i n g r e d i e n t s . H e a t m i x t u r e s l i g h t l y above t h e i r c l o u d p o i n t s w i t h m i l d a g i t a t i o n . ( B l e n d s 1 & 2 have c l o u d p o i n t s o f 80 & 79C r e s p e c t i v e l y ) . Once b l e n d i s c l e a r t h e m i x t u r e c a n b e c o o l e d and p a c k a g e d . SOURCE: A l l i e d - S i g n a l I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

71

72

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Lipstick with A-C 400, No. 162

%w/w 1 . T i 0 2 i n C a s t o r O i l (40% p i g m e n t ) 2 . Red 6 i n C a s t o r O i l (25% p i g m e n t )

3 . Red 7 i n C a s t o r O i l (25% p i g m e n t ) 4. Castor O i l (extra) 5 . Polybutene H-100 6 . A - C 400A 7. Eutanol G 8. Refined Lanolin 9 . C a n d e l i11 a 1 0 . P o l y g l y c e r y l d i - i s o s t e a r a t e ( E m e r e s t 2452)

1.8 14.3 10.8 3.3 9.3 4.7 23.3 9.3 13.0 10.2

Procedure: The p i g m e n t c a s t o r o i l b l e n d s a r e p r e d i s p e r s e d . Weigh a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r , h e a t and m i x t o 93C. Cool t o 85C and pour t h e m i x t u r e i n t o t h e molds. NOTE: T h i s s t i c k was f l a m e d . W i t h o u t f l a m i n g i t w o u l d n o t b e a s g l o s s y . To make i t more m a t t e , r e d u c e p o l y b u t e n e t o 546, and i n c r e a s e No. 7 b y 2%, No. 8 b y 0.5%, No. 9 b y 1%, and No. 1 0 b y 1 . 5 % . P r e s e r v a t i v e and a n t i - o x i d a n t as m i n o r amounts s h o u l d n o t be a problem.

Lip Gloss

%w/w 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

2-ethyl hexyl stearate Castor o i l A-C 400 Lanolin alcohol 0 1 e y l a1 coho1 Perfume Brown umber shade 1985 Brown r e d shade 1654 Preservative

51 , 1 7 5 15 20 5

8 0.75 0.025 0.05

q.s.

Procedure: D i s p e r s e p i g m e n t i n 0.225% c a s t o r o i 1 . 6. M i x t h e r e m a i n i n g 1 , 2 , 3 , 4 , 5 and h e a t t o 85-9OC w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i 1 t h e p o l y e t h y l e n e h a s c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Add p i g m e n t mixture t o it. C . M i x s l o w l y , a d d p e r f u m e a t 50-55C and d e - a e r a t e . Pour i n t o m o l d s o r c o n t a i n e r s and a l l o w t o c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .

A.

SOURCE: A l l i e d - S i g n a l

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

73

Liquid Make-Up Formul a t in g D e s i gn and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s make-up c o v e r s n i c e l y y e t i t i s v e r y l i g h t o n t h e s k i n and l e a v e s a smooth a n d s i l k y a f t e r - f e e l . I t w i l l a l s o r e d u c e t r a n s e p i d e r m a l w a t e r 1o s s .

Wt%

O i l Phase: H e x a n e d i o l B e h e n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Octyl Palmitate (Lexol ) S i l i c o n e O i l 556 (Dow C o r n i n g ) Isopropyl Palmitate (Lexol) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d ( U n i chema) O y s t e r N u t O i l ( K o s t e r Keunen) P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

0.50 2.00 4.00 2.00 1.50 1 .oo 0.30

W a t e r Phase: D e i o n i z e d Water X a n t h a n Gum ( K e l c o ) C e l l u l o s e Gum ( A q u a l o n ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow C o r n i n g ) G1 y c e r i n ( U n i chema) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (BASF) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 (BASF) M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

59.60 0.40 0.30 0.70 2.00 2.00 0.60 0.30

P i g m e n t Phase: O p t a t i n t Titanium Dioxide (Colorcon) D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) S i l i c o n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) PEG Carnauba ( K o s t e r Keunen) Brown I r o n O x i d e ( C l a r k C o l o r s ) Yellow I r o n Oxide (Clark Colors)

13.00 2.00 2.30 2.30 2.20 1 .oo

Procedure: Heat p i g m e n t p h a s e u n t i l m e l t e d , s t i r r i n g t o b r e a k up any g l o b u l e s . L e t c o o l . Reheat and m e l t a g a i n s t i r r i n g g l o b u l e s . Add t o t h e p r e h e a t e d o i l phase a t 75C. Add t h e o i l p h a s e t o t h e 75C h e a t e d w a t e r p h a s e u n d e r v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n . C o o l . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : S m a l l amounts o f s u n s c r e e n may b e added t o r e p l a c e t h e o i l s . The o i l may be r e d u c e d t o g i v e an e v e n l i g h t e r f e e l . Replacement o f O y s t e r N u t O i l w i t h P o l y e t h y l e n e G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e w i l l make t h i s f o r m u l a an o i l f r e e p r o d u c t .

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen,

I n c . : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g

74

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Liquid Makeup W t .%* 48.83

Insredient : D e i o n i z e d Water

A:

B: Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e C e l l u l o s e Gum (CMC 7H3SF)

0.50 0.15

C:

5.00 1.oo 0.20

Propylene Glycol Lecithin Methylparaben

D: T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e M i c a ( a n d ) S i l i c o n D i o x i d e ( C a s h m i r K-11) T a l c ( M i c r o Ace P-2) I r o n Oxides S i 1 ic a ( S p h e r o n P-1500)

E: C e t y l A l c o h o l G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( L i p o GMS 450) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( L i p o IPP) Stearic Acid C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L i p o n a t e GC) I s o e i c o s a n e ( P e r m e t h y l 102A) I s o s t e a r i c Acid (Emerol 871) F : T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% Propylparaben I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( G e r m a l l 115)

9.00 2.00 2.00 1 .40 0.50 1.00 0.80 4.00 0.80 6.00 12.50 2.40 1.62 0.10 0.20

Procedure: D r y b l e n d P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h a h o m o g e n i z e r f o r 20 m i n u t e s a t 5000 r p m . B e g i n h e a t i n g t o 75C. Add t h e P a r t C and P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown m i x i n g e a c h f o r 3 m i n u t e s . Check t o make s u r e t h e p i g m e n t s a r e u n i f o r m l y d i s p e r s e d . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l m i x and h e a t t h e P a r t E i n g r e d i e n t s t o 75C. When b o t h p h a s e s a r e a t 75C, add t h e P a r t E t o P a r t s A+B+C+D. M i x f o r 15-20 m i n u t e s . B e g i n c o o l i n g w i t h s l o w speed m i x i n g . A t 50C add t h e P a r t F i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown. C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w h i l e m i x i n g a t s l o w speed. *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., Presperse, I n c .

I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n f r o m

Beauty Aids

75

Luxurious Makeup Formula: A: Veegum Water Magnesium Sulfate B: Talc Kaolin Titanium Dioxide Iron Oxides C; Carnation M i n e r a l O i l (Witco) Polysynlane (Polyesther) Ritachol Lanapene (Lanaetex) 70% Sorbitol S o l u t i o n W i t c a m i d e 511 (Witco) Preservatives

% by WeIght 1,20 37.90 0.40 5.50 1.50 5.00 3.00 15.00 8.00 8.00 7.00 5.00 1.50 q.s.

Procedure: Add Veegum to water s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g c o n t i n u a l l y u n t i l smooth. G r i n d B and add to A 1 m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add A and B to C and m i x u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Cleansing Milk £p_rmuIa : L a n o l i n Anhydrous Propylene Glycol Monostearate Polysynlane (Polyesther) I.P.M. Paraffin Wax Beeswax Potassium Hydroxide Carnation M i n e r a l O i l Perfume and Preservatives Water to SOURCE: Witco Corp.; Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

%_by. Wejjgh.t 5.0 3.0 38.0 4.0 4.0 16.0 0.7 3,0 q.s. 100.0

76

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Makeup Foundation W t .%* Inaredient : 46.50 A: D e i o n i z e d Water 0.80 8: Veegum U1 t r a , Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e 0.30 X a n t h a n Gum 1.20 C : N y l o n - I 2 ( O r g a s o l 2002 D E x t r a N a t u r a l Cos) 1 .oo Sodium PCA ( A j i d e w N-50) D: D e i o n i z e d W a t e r 10.00 7.00 Propylene Glycol 2.55 I r o n Oxides (and) T a l c 5.60 T i t a n i um D i o x i d e E: G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( C e r a s y n t GMS) 2 .oo 2.00 Stearic Acid 2.00 DEA-Cetyl P h o s p h a t e (Amphi s o l ) Methylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and) Ethylparaben 0.25 (and) Propylparaben ( N i p a s t a t ) 3.00 I s o s t e a r y l Neopentanoate M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated B u t y l e n e / E t h y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer ( a n d ) H y d r o g e n a t e d E t h y l e n e / 15.00 P r o p y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer ( G e a h l e n e ) 0.70 P h e n o x y e t h a n o l (Emeressence 1160) 0.10 Tocopherol Acetate D r y b l e n d t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s a n d add them t o P a r t A w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h a h o m o g e n i z e r a t 5000 rpm f o r 20 m i n u t e s . Add t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r and m i x e a c h f o r 3 m i n u t e s . I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r homogenize t h e P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l s m o o t h . Add P a r t D t o P a r t s A+B+C and m i x 10 m i n u t e s w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 80C. H e a t t h e P a r t E i n g r e d i e n t s t o 80C a n d m i x u n t i l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add P a r t E t o t h e m a i n b a t c h and m i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t s l o w speed w h i l e c o o l in g t o 35C. *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s Lash-Conditioning Mascara W t .%* Ingredient: A : Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e 1 .50 B: D e i o n i z e d W a t e r 30.78 C : PVP (PVP K-30) 0.22 H y d r o 1 y z e d K e r a t i n ( K e r a - T e i n 1000 SD) 1-00 K e r a t i n A m i no A c i d s ( K e r a - T e i n A A ) 0.50 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 5.00 D: P e t r o l a t u m 3.00 32.00 P e t r o l e u m D i s t i11a t e s Carnauba Wax 5.00 S y n t h e t i c Beeswax 5.00 C a n d e l i11a Wax 3.00 2.50 P a r a f f in O l e a m i d e DEA 5.00 E : I r o n O x i d e (C33-134 C o s m e t i c B l a c k ) 5.50 F: P r e s e r v a t i v e 4.S. Add P a r t A t o P a r t 6 and m i x w i t h a h o m o g e n i z e r f o r 20 m i n u t e s a t 5000 rpm. Add P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown m i x i n g each 3 m i n u t e s b e f o r e a d d i n g t h e n e x t i n g r e d i e n t . Heat P a r t s A+B+C t o 75C. M i x and h e a t P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s t o 80C. Add P a r t D t o P a r t s A+B+C and m i x 10 m i n u t e s . Add P a r t E and m i x 10 m i n u t e s . B e g i n c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g s l o w l y . A t 40C a d d P a r t F . M i x & c o o l . SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o o , Inc.: Formulas: P e n r e c o 8, Maybrook

Beauty Aids

77

Make-up Remover % by Weiaht

Q.S. t o 1 0 0 . 0

0 . I . Water S o d i um B o r a t e Neobee M-5 C o s m e t i c Mineral O i l Beeswax USP Lanol i n Drewpol 10-1 0-0 OMDM H y d a n t o i n

0.60 40.00

2.00 10.00 1-00 2.50 0.25

M i x i ng Procedure: P r e p a r e w a t e r p h a s e b y a d d i n g t o g e t h e r D . I . Water and Sodium B o r a t e . S t a r t m i x i n g . When t h e r e a r e n o c r y s t a l s , s t a r t h e a t i n g t o 160-165F. P r e p a r e o i l p h a s e b y c o m b i n i n g Neobee M-5 C o s m e t i c , M i n e r a l O i l , Beeswax USP, L a n o l i n , and D r e w p o l 10-10-0. H e a t t o 165-17OF. Add w a t e r p h a s e i n t o o i l p h a s e w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . E m u l s i f y f o r 25-30 m i n u t e s a t 165-17OF. C o o l t o 1 1 O F . Add DMDM H y d a n t o i n . W i t h m i x i n g , c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . AHA Facial Cleanser % by Weight

D. I.W a t e r Glycerin EDTA B i o - T e r g e AS-40 Amphosol CG A v a n e l S-150 S a l i c y l i c Acid

Q . S . t o 100.0 2.5 0.2

30.0 20.0 6.5 1 .o

M i x i ng P r o c e d u r e : Add w a t e r , G l y c e r i n , EDTA, B i o - T e r g e AS-40, and Amphosol CG and m i x w e l l . I n t o a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , p r e m i x A v a n e l S-150 and S a l i c y l i c A c i d , m a k i n g s u r e a l l c r y s t a l s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p r e m i x t o t h e b a t c h . M i x w e l l . Check p H ( 4 . 0 ) and a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y , if n e c e s s a r y . SOURCE: S t e p a n C o . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

78

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Mascara Remover A smooth l u b r i c a t i n g c l e a n s e r f o r t h e r e m o v a l o f m a s c a r a . Sequence: 1 1 1 2 2

Percent 82.45 15.00 0.30 1.25 1 .oo

Raw M a t e r i a l : L i p o v o l MOS-70* L i p o n a t e NPGC-2 U n i p h e n P-23 L i p o s o r b L-20 L i p o n i c EG-1

* P a t e n t #4,659,573

Room T e m p e r a t u r e P r o c e d u r e : 1 . Add Sequence #1 i n o r d e r of a d d i t i o n w h i l e m i x i n g a t medium speed w i t h o v e r h e a d m i x e r . 2 . P r e m i x Sequence # 2 and add t o Sequence #1 w i t h o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medium s p e e d .

SOURCE:

L i p o Chemicals

Inc, :

F o r m u l a No. 900

Pressed Powder Eyeshadow Formul a :

% by Weight

A:

Talc Zinc Stearate I r o n Oxide (Black) Antimicrobial M e a r l m i c a SVA ( M e a r l ) Gemstone Moonstone GO04

25.00 3.00 4.00 q.s. 15.00 35.00

B: Antioxidant Carnation Mineral O i 1 (Witco) C: Gemstone M o o n s t o n e GO04

q.s. 8.00 q.s.

Procedure: T h o r o u g h l y b l e n d and d i s p e r s e A . Add B i n t o s u p p o r t v e s s e l . H e a t and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . S p r a y B i n t o A and c o n t i n u e b l e n d i n g . P u l v e r i z e and r e t u r n t o b l e n d e r . Add C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . SOURCE : W i t c o C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t i on

Beauty Aids

Medicated Lip Balm

o/ow/w 10.00 10.00 6.00 54.00

Beeswax P a r a f f i n wax AC 617 F i n s o l v TN C12-15 A1 k y l B e n z o a t e Combine & h e a t t o 95C. Cool t o 80C

-

add 20.00

Camphor Pour i n t o room temp m o l d s . Lip Stick Base

%w/w Castor O i l P o l y b u t e n e H100 AC 400 A R e f i n e d L a n o l in Candel i11 a E u t a n o l G ( O c t y l Dodecanol ) P o l y g l y c e r y l D i -is o s t e a r a t e

25.0 10.0 5.0 10.0 14.0 25.0 11 . o

Procedure: B l e n d a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 92-95C. H o l d , t o be s u r e t h a t t h e p o l y e t h y l e n e i s homogeneous w i t h t h e b l e n d . Lipstick Base

%w/w 1 2. 3. 4. 5. I

A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l in 2-Ethylhexyl Stearate O z o k e r i t e 64W M i n e r a l O i l , 70 s s .

Procedure: Weigh a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o l O O C , w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When w e l l m i x e d , c o o l t o 85C and p o u r i n t o m o l d s . R e f : 4676-48-8

SOURCE: A1 1 ie d - S i g n a l

,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

8.0 16.0 6.0 20.0 50.0

79

Cosinetic and Toiletry Formulations

80

Men's Active Wrinkle Smoother T h i s s o f t cream, w h i c h c o n t a i n s U V - f i l t e r s , i s a b s o r b e d i n s t a n t l y and i s s u i t a b l e f o r m e n ' s s k i n . The c o m b i n a t i o n o f D i s m u t i n - B T and L a c t o m i d e e x e r t s p r o t e c t i n g , s k i n - f i r m i n g and anti-inflammatory a c t i v i t y .

Item 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

Ingredients A ) A r l a t o n e 985 B r i j 721 A r l a m o l HD P a r s o l 1789 P a r s o l MCX 344 S i l i c o n F l u i d B) D e i o n i z e d W a t e r Phenon ip A t l a s G-2330 El h i b i n Lactomi de C) D i smut i n-BT F r a g r a n c e : V u l c a n o 0/242294

Wei g h t %

5.00 3.00 10.00 1-00 2.00 1 .oo 67 90 0.50 3 IO0 3.00 3.00 0.30 0.30 I

Procedure: H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y p h a s e A ) t o 70C. H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r p h a s e 8 ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add p h a s e B) t o p h a s e A ) , c o o l t o 50C, homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then a d d i t e m s 12 and 13, o n e a f t e r a n o t h e r . A p p l i c a t i o n N o . A 035.0/02.96

Skin Tightening Gel T h i s c l e a r , s o l i d g e l e x h i b i t s immediate s k i n t i g h t e n i n g p r o p e r t i e s and smoothens t h e f i n e w r i n k l e s on t h e s k i n . An i d e a l f r e s h - u p f o r an e v e n i n g a f t e r a t i r i n g d a y .

Itern 1

2 3 4

5 6 7

Ingredients: A) D e i o n i z e d W a t e r Phenoni p I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a Glucam E 1 0 C a r b o p o l 940 B ) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne C) P e n t a c a r e - H P

Procedure: D i s s o l v e i t e m s 2-4 i n w a t e r (I). Under v i g o r o u s s t i r r i ng i n c o r p o r a t e itern 5. N e u t r a l i z e w i t h i t e m 6. F i n a l l y add i t e m 7. A c l e a r , s o l i d g e l i s o b t a i n e d . A p p l i c a t i o n No. D 032.0/06.93

SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Weight%

87.95 0.30 0.20 5.00 0.75 0.80 5.00

Beauty Aids

81

Moisturizing Gel This m o i s t u r i z i n g gel leaves a non-tacky m o i s t u r i z i n g f i l m on t h e s k i n . The Hypan f u n c t i o n s as a m o i s t u r i z i n g f i l m f o r m e r and he1 p s p r o v i d e an e l e g a n t f e e l I

S e que E c . 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2

2 3 4 4 5 6

6

Raw M a t e r i a l : Dei o n i zed W a t e r U n i p h e n P-23 Methylparaben Hampene Na2T Panthenol Glycerine H e x y l ene G1 y c o l L i p o n i c EG-1 Hypan SA l O O H C a r b o p o l ETD 2001 ( 2 % s o l ' n ) D e i o n i zed W a t e r T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d Dei o n i zed Water U n i c i d e U-13

Percent 73.90 0.30 0.20 0.05 0.50 1 .50 1 .oo 0.50 0.15 17.50 1.oo 0.65 1.50 1-00 0.25

Procedure: 1 . P r e m i x and h e a t Sequence #1 t o 80C w i t h o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medi um speed w i t h p r o p e l 1e r b l a d e . 2 . P r e m i x i n t o s l u r r y , Sequence #2 and add t o Sequence #1 a t 80C w i t h o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medium s p e e d . 3 . H e a t Sequence # 3 t o 70C and add t o b a t c h b r i n g i n g t e m p e r a t u r e b a c k t o 80C o n o v e r h e a d m i x e r . 4 . M i x Sequence # 4 and add t o b a t c h a t 80C w i t h o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medium/high speed. 5 . Cool b a t c h t o 55C and add Sequence # 5 on o v e r h e a d m i x e r w i t h p r o p e l 1e r b l a d e . 6 . Cool b a t c h t o 35C and add p r e m i x e d Sequence # 6 . 7 . Cool t o 25C. SOURCE:

Li po

C h e m i c a l s I n c . : F o r m u l a No. 839

82

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisturizing Lip Balm % by Weight 7.00 2.00 1.00 1 .50 5 * 00 7.00 10.00 5.00 0.30 0.25 0.05 60.70

Formu 1a : Candel i 11a Wax Carnauba Wax M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax ( W i t c o ) S y n t h e t i c Beeswax PEG-75 Cocoa B u t t e r C 1 e a r l an L a n o l in Acetate Ester Lanolin O i l M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben BHA Castor O i l

Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 75-8OC. M a i n t a i n t h e t e m p e r a t u r e a t 8OC w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l t h e m i x t u r e i s c l e a r and m o l t e n . P o u r i n t o s t i c k s a t 75-8OC. T h i s p r o d u c t i s d e s i g n e d t o i m p a r t a s o f t , m o i s t u r i z e d f e e l t o l i p s and t o p r o v i d e a l i g h t g l o s s y e f f e c t . I t can be worn a l o n e o r o v e r l i p c o l o r f o r shine.

Lipstick ____ Formula:

Lexemul 5 1 5 Castor O i l Carnation Mineral O i 1 ( W i tco) Pigment White Protopet I S (Witco) Carnauba Wax Lexgard P

% by W e i g h t 42.00 36.80 8.00

5.00 4.00 4.00 0.20

Procedure: M e l t i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r a n d m i x u n t i l homogeneous. Pour i n t o m o l d s and c o o l . Lexemul 515 c o n t r i b u t e s t o t h i s f o r m u l a ' s s o f t n e s s and s p r e a d a b i l i t y .

SOURCE : W i tco Corp, : Suggested Formul at ions

Beauty Aids

83

MPC - Milk Peptide Complex MPC c o n t a i n s n a t u r a l p o l y p e p t i d e s f r o m m i l k , i n a c t i v a t e d f o r m . A p r o t e c t i v e e n v i r o n m e n t e x c l u s i v e l y c o m p r i s e d o f m i 1k components s u c h a s l a c t a l b u m i n , l a c t o g l o b u l i n , l a c t o f e r r i n , l a c t o s e and l a c t a t e p r o v i d e s f o r p r o d u c t s t a b i 1 i t y and mai n t e n a n c e o f b i o a c t i v i t y . B i o a c t i v i t y i s s t a n d a r d i z e d i n e v e r y b a t c h o f MPC t o a r e p r e s e n t a t i v e c o n c e n t r a t i o n r a n g e (EC50). I n v i t r o b i o a s s a y s i n c e l l c u l t u r e s and i n v i v o t e s t s on e p i t h e l i a l t i s s u e and on human s k i n g i v e p r o o f o f t h e b i o a c t i v i t y and c o s m e t i c b e n e f i t s o f MPC. Anti Cellulite Emulsion, Type O/W with MPC - Milk Peptide Complex Ingredients: a ) Emulgade 1000 N I L a n e t t e 16 M y r i t o l 318 Phenoni p

Weight% 4.00 1.oo 10.00 0.30

b ) Water, d i s t i l l e d C a r b o p o l 934

50.00 0.40

c ) Water, d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p T r i e t h a n o l ami ne

23.60 0.30 0.40 9.36 0.14 0.50

d) Water, d i s t i l l e d Na3-Ci t r a t e , a n h y d r o u s MPC-Mi 1 k P e p t i de Complex

Manufacture: a ) M e l t and b r i n g t o a p p r o x 7 0 C ; b ) M e l t and b r i n a t o aDDrox 7 0 C and add t o a ) w i t h s t i r r i n g ; . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C; c ) D i s s o l v e and add t o a b ) ; d ) D i s s o l v e a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and a d d t o a b c ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Perfume , h o m o g e n i z e .

SOURCE:

Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i u m D r S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i on

I

K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH:

84

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Night Cream Moisturizer An e l e g a n t , g l o s s y , w h i t e , repairs the skin.

moisture-retaining

cream t h a t

Innredients: 1 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i z e d W a t e r 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 ( C a r b o m e r ) 3 . R i t a l o e 1X ( A l o e V e r a G e l ) 4 . D i s o d i um 0 1 eami do PEG-2 S u l f o s u c c i n a t e 5. P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 6 . Hydrogenated P o l y i sobutene 7. Dimethicone 8 . R i t a p r o - 1 6 5 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e and PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) 9. Mineral O i l 1 0 . R i t a IPP ( I s o o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 11.Tocopheryl Acetate 12. Tocopheryl L i n o l e a t e 1 3 . R i t a IPM ( I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ) 1 4 . R i t a C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l 70/30 1 5 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 16.Corn S t a r c h 17.Germaben I 1 1 8 . R a f f e r m i n e ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy F l o u r ) 1 9 . R e d u c t i ne ( O a t P r o t e i n )

% & 61.65 0.40 0.20 2.00 2.00 5.00 2.00

5.00 4.00 6.00 0.25 0.10

0.50 1.50 0.40 1.00 1.oo 3.00 4.00

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : S l o w l y d i s p e r s e i t e m 2 i n i t e m 1 . M i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add i t e m s 3-5 and h e a t t o 75C. Combine i t e m s 6 - 1 4 and h e a t t o 75C. Add t o w a t e r and m i x . Add i t e m 1 5 . Cool t o 40C and add i t e m s 16-19. R e f . No. 122-1OC

Skin Nutrient Gel Ingredients: 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer 9 4 0 ) 3 . X a n t h a n Gum 4. 1,3 B u t y l e n e G l y c o l 5 . R i t a s i l 190 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ) 6 . Shebu WS (Shea B u t t e r ) 7 . TEA @ 99% 8 . P r o m o i s ECP ( C o l l a g e n ) 9 . Glydant 10.Fragrance 11 . R i t a HA C-1 -C ( S o d i um H y a l u r o n a t e )

w

87.40 0.50 0.10 5.00 0.10 1.oo 0.40 0.20 0.20 0.10

5.00

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 2 i n w a t e r . Add i t e m 3 and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add i t e m s 4, 5 a n d 6 s e p a r a t e l y . Add TEA u n t i l b a t c h t h i c k e n s . Add i t e m s 8 , 9 , 1 0 a n d 1 1 . The pH o f a g e l i s 5 . 5 R e f . No. 122-1036 SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp,: S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

85

Nonionic L i q u i d Makeup Veegum p r o v i d e s a l i q u i d makeup w i t h u n i f o r m , s h e a r c o v e r a g e . Veegum s t a b i l i z e s t h e e m u l s i o n w h i l e i n h i b i t i n g p i g m e n t s e t t l i n g . The 5 : l Veegum/xanthan gum r a t i o p r o v i d e s o p t i m u m v i s c o s i t y and f l o w a b i l i t y . The b l e n d o f o i l phase i n g r e d i e n t s i s d e s i g n e d t o g i v e e m o l l i e n c e w i t h o u t an o i l y o r g r e a s y f e e l . A n o n i o n i c e m u l s i f y i n g s y s t e m g i v e s maximum s t a b i l i t y t o t h e f o r m u l a a t pH 5 . 5 - 6 . 0 . The f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d s p e c i f i c a l l y f o r o i l y s k i n . Insredient : Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e R h o d i g e l , X a n t h a n Gum D e i o n i z e d Water G1 y c e r in C i t r i c Acid

A:

W t .%* 0.75 0.15 67.10 4.00 0.30

B: T a l c T i t a n i um D i o x i d e I r o n Oxides

5.00 5.00 3.70

C: M i n e r a l O i l (and) L a n o l i n Alcohol ( R i t a c h o l ) M y r i s t y 1 M y r i s t a t e (Crodamol MM) Hydrogenated P o l y i s o b u t e n e ( P o l y s y n l a n e ) 01 e y l A1 coho1 S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 (Cosmowax K ) P o l y s o r b a t e 8 5 (Tween 8 5 )

5.00 2.50 2.00 2.00 2 .oo 0.50

D:

Preservative

q.s.

Procedure: B l e n d Veegum and R h o d i g e l . S l o w l y add t o t h e w a t e r , w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l smooth. Add t h e g l y c e r i n and c i t r i c a c i d . M i x u n t i l smooth. M i x P a r t B ( g r i n d i f n e c e s s a r y ) u n t i l homogeneous. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . H e a t P a r t s A+B t o 60-65C. H e a t P a r t C t o 60-65C. Add P a r t C t o P a r t s A+B and m i x w h i l e c o o l i n g . A t 40C, add P a r t D and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t

Co.,

Inc.:

Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n

No. 349

86

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Oil Free Make-Up with Hypan SR150H Seauence : 1

1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 3 4 4 4

4 4 5 5 *Patent

Raw M a t e r i a1 : Dei o n i zed Water Hypan SR150H Methylparaben P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% T i t a n i um D i o x i d e #3328 I r o n Oxide Y e l l o w I r o n O x i d e Red I r o n Oxide B l a c k O r g a s o l 2002D Nat Cos D e i o n i z e d Water L i p o v o l MOS-70* L i p o n a t e TDTM L i p 0 GMS-450 Lip0 Stearic Acid Propylparaben D e i o n i z e d Water U n i c i d e U-13

Percent

48.14 0.01

0.25 4.60 0I90 8.00 0.80 0.40 0.10 1 .oo 20.00 10.00 1 .oo 1-00

2.50 0.20 1 .oo 0.10

#4,659,573

Procedure: 1 . I n t o m a i n k e t t l e , combine Sequence #1 i n g r e d i e n t s u n d e r L i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g and h e a t t o 60-7OC. 2. I n a u x i 1 i a r y k e t t l e , c o m b i n e Sequence # 2 i n g r e d i e n t s and add t o Sequence #1 s l o w l y u n d e r L i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g . 3. Pass combined Sequences # l and #2 t h r o u g h c o l l o i d m i l l and r e c i r c u l a t e u n t i 1 pigments a r e evenly dispersed. 4. R i n s e c o l l o i d m i l l u s i n g Sequence #3 i n g r e d i e n t and add t o Sequences #1 and #2 u n d e r L i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g . Heat combined b a t c h t o 76C. 5. I n a u x i l i a r y k e t t l e combine Sequence #4 u n d e r L i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g and h e a t t o 82C. 6. A t p r o p e r t e m p e r a t u r e add Sequence #4 i n g r e d i e n t s t o b a t c h u n d e r sweep m i x i ng, mai n t a i n i ng t e m p e r a t u r e u n t i 1 emu1 s i f ic a t i o n i s c o m p l e t e . B e g i n c o o l i n g t o 35CJ s w i t c h i n g t o s l o w sweep m i x i n g as b a t c h t h i c k e n s . 7 . A t 35C add p r e m i x e d Sequence #5 i n g r e d i e n t s t o b a t c h and c o o l t o 25C.

SOURCE:

L i p 0 Chemicals I n c . : Formula

No. 875

Beauty Aids

Oil Moisturizer

Wt% 24.75 5.00 0.50 3.00 1 .50 0.25 0.10 0.80 0.06 0.20 63.84

Mineral O i l L a n o l i n X - t r a Deo O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA Beeswax Ritavena 5 Borax DL P a n t h e n o l S o r b i t a n Monooleate Color K a t h o n CG D i s t i 1 1e d Water

pH: 7 . 1 V i s c o s i t y : 8500 c p s S t a b i 1 it i e s : 4F: S e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 1 c y c l e 40F: No change a f t e r 6 weeks 11OF: No change a f t e r 6 weeks C e n t r i f u g e R e s u l t s : A f t e r 20 m i n u t e s a t 5000 RPM S1 ig h t s e p a r a t i o n D e s c r i p t i o n o f System: W i t h o u t p e t r o l a t u m w i t h R i t a v e n a 5 (1.5%) Formul a t io n 11 4-34

Oil Moisturizer with Ritavena 5 Ingredients : 96w/w P a r t A: 1. Mineral O i 1 24.75 2 . L a n o l i n , X - t r a Deo 5.00 3 . O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA 0.50 4 . Beeswax 3.00 P a r t B: 5. R i t a v e n a 5 1.50 6 . D i s t i l l e d Water (1OOC) 10.00 P a r t C: 7 . D i s t i l l e d Water 53.60 8 . Borax (99.5% Pure) 0.25 9 . R i t a p a n DL 0.10 1 0 . S o r b i t a n Monooleath 0.80 P a r t D: 11 F r a g r a n c e 0.30 0.20 1 2 . K a t h o n CG Compoundi n g P r o c e d u r e : H e a t P a r t s A and C t o 165F. Pour P a r t A i n t o P a r t C . M i x w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g 165F f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s . P r e m i x P a r t B i n a b l e n d e r f o r 2 m i n u t e s . Add P a r t 0 t o m i x t u r e . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 120F. Add P a r t 0 . M i x . F o r m u l a t i o n 11 4-34

.

SOURCE: R,I.T.A. C o r p , :

R i t a v e n a 5 : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

87

88

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W-Skin Milk Manufacturing at room temperature possible Recipe: A H o s t a p h a t KML M i n e r a l o i 1, l o w v i s c o s i t y Almond o i 1 Isopropyl palmitate Antioxidant B

C a r b o p o l 980

C

C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i o n (10%) A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . C i t r i c a c i d (10%) Water Preservative

D

Fragrance

Wt% 3.00 12.00 5.00 5.00 q.s.

0.40 2.70 0.10 0.25 71.25 q.s.

0.30

Procedure: 1 S t i r B i n t o A, t h e n add C and s t i r w e l l . 2 S t i r D i n t o 1. 3 Homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n . Formula A VI/1150 O/W-Skin Milk Manufacturing at room temperature possible Recipe : A H o s t a p h a t KL 340 N H o s t a c e r i n DGI M i n e r a l o i l , low v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate C e t i o l 868 B

C a r b o p o l 980

C

C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i o n ( 1 0 % ) Water P r e s e r v a t iv e

D

Fragrance

Procedure: 1 M i x A and 8 , t h e n add C and s t i r w e l l 2 Add D t o 1 w h i l e s t i r r i n g . 3 F i n a l l y homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n . Formula A VI/1118

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e R e c i p e s f o r t h e C o s m e t i c I n d u s t r y

wt% 1.50 2.00 8.00 6.00 5.00

0.40 1.60 75.20 4. s.

0.30

Beauty Aids

89

O/W-Skin Milk "Contains no ethylene oxide", manufacturing at room temperature possible Recipe: A Hostacerin DGI Mineral o i l , low v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate S q u a l ane Eutanol G Walnut o i 1 Anti o x i dant B C a r b o p o l 980 C H o s t a p o n KCG A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . C i t r i c a c i d (10%) C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i o n (10%) PEG 400 H o e c h s t P o t a s s i um S o r b a t e Germall I 1 Water D Fragrance Procedure: 1 S t i r B i n t o A, t h e n add C and s t i r w e l l . 2 Add D t o 1 . 3 F i n a l l y homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n . Formula A VI/1253

Wt% 2.00 3.00 4.00 2.00 4.00 3.00 q.s. 0.50 0.80 0.10 0.50 1.80 3.00 0.25 0.25 74.40 0.30

O/W-Skin Milk "contains no ethylene oxide" Recipe: H o s t a c e r i n DGMS M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate C e t i o l 868 B C a r b o p o l 980 C H o s t a p o n KCG C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i o n (10%) G1 y c e r i n Water P r e s e r v a t iv e D Fragrance Procedure: 1 M e l t A a t c a . 70C, t h e n add B . 2 Heat C t o c a . 70C. 3 S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i l c o o l . 4 A t c a . 35C add D t o 3 . 5 F i n a l 1y homogeni z e t h e emu1 s i o n . Formula A VI/1252

A

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e R e c i p e s t o t h e C o s m e t i c I n d u s t r y

Wt% 2.00 8.00 5.00 4.00 0.30 0.60 1.20 4.00 74.60 q.s. 0.30

90

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Petroleum Oil/Petroleum Wax Free Lipstick F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s l i p s t i c k i s a creamy s t i c k t h a t does n o t u s e any p e t r o l e u m o i l s o r waxes i n t h e f o r m u l a , n o r does i t u s e any s y n t h e t i c raw m a t e r i a l s t h a t h a v e p e t r o l e u m p r o d u c t s i n i t .

wt%

O i l Phase I :

H y d r o x y P o l y e s t e r ( K o s t e r Keunen) 3.7 R i c e B r a n O i l ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5.0 Octyl Palmitate (Inolex) 9.0 Castor O i l (Alnor) 38.0 PEG Carnauba ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1.3 2.0 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e Powder ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) S i l i c o n e O i l 5 5 6 (Dow C o r n i n g ) 10.0 D&C Red #30 ( C l a r k e ) 3.0 O i l Phase 1 1 : K80-D22 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5.0 S y n t h e t i c C a n d e l i l l a ( K o s t e r Keunen) 9.0 Hexanedi ol B e h e n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 7.0 D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 4.0 Procedure: M i x Phase I, h e a t t o 75C b r e a k i n g up any s m a l l a g g l o m e r a t e s . C o o l . Repeat t w o more t i m e s . Reheat t o 75C and add Phase I 1 t h a t has been h e a t e d t o 75C. Cool t o 6 5 C and p o u r i n t o m o l d s . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : V a r i o u s o i l s u b s t i t u t i o n s c a n be made t o s u i t f o r m u l a . Lip Gloss with Sun Protection

F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s p r o d u c t p r o t e c t s t h e l i p s f r o m t h e sun, w i t h t h e h e l p o f t h e PEG Carnauba and D e o d o r i z e d O r a n g e Wax w h i l e a d d i n g m o i s t u r e and c o l o r t o t h e l i p s . Formul a : _ W t_ % 1 . PEG Carnauba ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5.0 2 . D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5.0 3 . Whi t e P e t r o l e u m (Wi t c o ) 26.1 4 . Shea B u t t e r ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5.0 5 . J o j o b a O i l ( J o j o b a Growers) 2.0 6 . H e x a n e d i o l B e h e n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 10.5 7 . Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Inolex) 45.0 8 . Gamma O r z a n o l ( K o s t e r Keunen) 0.6 9 . Pigments 0.8 Procedure: Combine 9 , 1 , 2 , h e a t t i l l d i s p e r s e d . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s t o t h e b a t c h , e x c e p t t h e gamma o r z a n o l w h i c h s h o u l d be added l a s t , a f t e r e v e r y t h i n g has been d i s p e r s e d . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : To make t h e p r o d u c t w i t h g r e a t e r g l o s s i t w o u l d n o r m a l l y r e q u i r e more p e t r o l e u m . To make t h e p r o d u c t s o f t e r l e s s wax s h o u l d be u s e d . SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c , : A G u i d e t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g

Beauty Aids

Pressed Powder Blush Formula: A: Talc Zinc Stearate S h i n j u lOOT ( M e a r l ) M e a r l it e GBU ( M e a r l ) T i m i c a S p a r k l e 11OP ( M e a r l ) C l o i s o n n e ' C e r i s e Flambe 5502 ( M e a r l ) C1 o i s o n n e ' B1 ue F1 ambe 6502 I r o n Oxide (Brown) I r o n Oxide (Russet) I r o n Oxide (Tan) A n t i m i c r o b i a1 s B: Fragrance Antioxidant C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) S o r b i t a n D i is o s t e a r a t e C: Flamenco S u p e r p e a r l 120C ( M e a r l ) C l o i s o n n e ' Monarch G o l d 2 3 3 X ( M e a r l )

% by W e i g h t

50.30 7.00 11 . o o 6.50 1.25 1.10 2.60 1.75 2.00 1-00 q.s. q.s. q.s. 2.90 2.90

4.70 5.00

Procedure: B1 end and d i s p e r s e A in d r y b l e n d i n g / d i s p e r s i ng e q u i p m e n t I n s e p a r a t e v e s s e l combine 6 and h e a t and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . S p r a y B i n t o p r e m i x e d A and c o n t i n u e b l e n d i n g . P u l v e r i z e and r e t u r n t o b l e n d e r . Add C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m .

I

Pressed Powder Eyeshadow Formula: A: M e a r l t a l c TCA ( q . s . t o 1 0 0 ) ( M e a r l ) Zinc Stearate M e a r l m i c a CF ( M e a r l ) Chromi um O x i d e Green I r o n Oxide ( Y e l l o w ) A n t i m i c r o b i a1

% b y Wei a h t

45.00 6.00 34.00 3.00 6.00 q.s.

B: Antioxidant Squal ane Carnation Mineral O i l

q.s. 2.50 3-50

(Witco)

Procedure: T h o r o u g h l y b l e n d and d i s p e r s e Phase A i n a p p r o p r i a t e d r y b l e n d i n g / d i s p e r s i ng e q u i p m e n t Add Phase B in g r e d i e n t s in t o a s u p p o r t v e s s e l . Heat and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . S p r a y p h a s e B i n t o p r e m i x e d A and c o n t i n u e u n t i l u n i f o r m . P u l v e r i z e and press.

.

SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

91

92

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Purified Bentonite Refining Mask Veegum HS i s c l a s s i f i e d as “ P u r i f i e d B e n t o n i t e ” i n t h e USP/NF. T h i s mask f o r m u l a t i o n i s f o r a l l s k i n t y p e s and t a k e s a d v a n t a g e o f t h e r e c o g n i z e d a b s o r b a t i v e and c l e a n s i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f b e n t o n i t e . Apply a t h i n c o a t i n g t o t h e face. Allow i t t o dry or remove i t a f t e r 10 t o 15 m i n u t e s b e f o r e i t i s c o m p l e t e l y d r y . R i n s e o f f w i t h c l e a r w a t e r and a s o f t c l o t h o r c o t t o n b a l l . Ingredient: A : Veegum HS, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e Rhodi g e l , X a n t h a n Gum D e i o n i z e d Water

W t .%* 4.00 0.30 43 70

B:

15.00 10.00 5.00

C:

Sucrose Glycerin DEA-Oleth-3

P h o s p h a t e ( C r o d a f o s N-3 N e u t r a l )

P r o p y l ene G l y c o l ( a n d ) Grape E x t r a c t ( a n d ) H y p e r i c u m E x t r a c t (and) A r n i c a E x t r a c t (and) W i t c h Hazel E x t r a c t (and) Horse Chestnut E x t r a c t (and) I v y E x t r a c t ( P h y t e l ene Compl ex EGX 2 4 3 ) Propylene G l y c o l (and) Calendura E x t r a c t (and) Chamomile E x t r a c t ( a n d ) L i n d e n E x t r a c t ( a n d ) Cornflower E x t r a c t (and) M a t r i c a r i a E x t r a c t (and) H y p e r i c u m E x t r a c t ( P h y t e l e n e Complex EGX 244) A1 l a n t o i n Oat F l o u r ( S t e r - 0 - P r o ) Zinc Oxide

D: P r e s e r v a t i v e

I

3.00

3.00 1.oo 10.00 5.00

q.s.

Procedure: D r y b l e n d t h e Veegum HS and R h o d i g e l . Add them t o t h e w a t e r , a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r u n t i l smooth. Add t h e P a r t i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l smooth. Add t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown and m i x each u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add P a r t D and m i x u n t i 1 uniform.

*

As r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE:

R.T.Vanderbilt

Co., I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n No. 419

B

Beauty Aids

93

Silky Shadow Phase#: Ingredients: Weight% 1 1625 T a l c 17.60 1 S i l k Mica 30.00 1 B i r o n B-50 5.00 1 S i l t e x M Super 3.50 1 Z i n c S t e a r a t e #695 3.50 1 H u b e r s o r b 600 0.50 1 7055 (Ye1 l o w i r o n o x i d e ) 10.00 1 7054 (Red i r o n o x i d e ) 7.50 1 7133 ( B l a c k i r o n o x i d e ) 2.00 1 M e t h y l Paraben 0.20 1 P r o p y l Paraben 0.10 T r i v e n t OC-G 9.05 2 2 E m e r e s t 2452 0.50 2 S c h e r c e r m o l CP 0 50 2 BHA 0.05 3 T i m i r o n MP-24 G o l d K a r a t 10.00 Procedure: Combine phase # 1 . P u l v e r i z e w i t h a hammer m i 11, p a s s i n g t w i c e t h r o u g h an 0 . 0 2 7 " h e r r i n g bone s c r e e n . Combine p h a s e # 2 . H e a t t o 65C w i t h s t i r r i n g . S p r a y o n t o b a t c h w h i l e a g i t a t i n g t h e b u l k . P u l v e r i z e o n c e t h r o u g h t h e 0 . 0 2 7 " s c r e e n . Add phase # 3 . B l e n d i n w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n . Do n o t p u l v e r i z e . F o r m u l a t i o n P 2133 I

Powder Eyeshadow v & !6 9.70 20 * 00 1 .oo 5.00 15.00 15.00 2.00 15.00 9-00 0.20 0.10

Supra T a l c B i r o n ESQ Microcel E O r g a s o l 2002 UD N a t Cos 43001 (manganese v i o l e t ) 43W1810 ( u l t r a m a r i n e b l u e ) 33-5198 ( b l a c k i r o n o x i d e ) M i c a M-RP Magnesi urn M y r i s t a t e M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben

C e r a p h y l 847 O c t y l d o d e c y l S t e a r o y l S t e a r a t e 6.95 Emerest 2452 0.50 Cetyl Palmitate 0.50 Oxynex LM 0.05 Manufacturing Procedure: Combine t h e p i g m e n t s and f i l l e r s w i t h t u m b l i n g a g i t a t i o n . P u l v e r i z e u s i n g a hammer m i l l t w i c e t h r o u g h an 0 . 0 2 7 " s c r e e n . Combine t h e o i l p h a s e . H e a t t o 70C u n t i l homogeneous. S p r a y onto batch while a g i t a t i n g . F o r m u l a t i o n P3-57-6

SOURCE:

Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

94

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Silky Smooth Emollient Liquid Makeup W t .%* Ingredient: A : Veegum P l u s , Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e ( a n d ) C e l l u 1o s e Gum 1 .oo 53.50 D e i o n i z e d Water 10.50 G l y c e r e t h - 2 6 ( L i p o n i c EG-1) 0.75 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% 1.29 B: I r o n O x i d e s 1 .oo Talc 3,OO T i t a n i um D i o x i d e 9.06 C: I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e 6.50 M i n e r a l O i l ( a n d ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ( A m e r c h o l L-101) 4.00 Isopropyl Palmitate 2.50 Isopropyl Myristate 2.10 H y d r o g e n a t e d Soy G l y c e r i d e ( M y v e r o l 1 8 - 0 6 ) 1.60 S t e a r i c A c i d XXX D i o c t y l Adi p a t e (and) O c t y l S t e a r a t e (and) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( 1 . 1 % b y w t W i c k e n o l 161 + 1 . 0 % b y w t W i c k e n o l 163) 2.10 V a n s e a l CS , C o c o y l S a r c o s i n e 1.00 0.10 Lithium Stearate D: P r e s e r v a t i v e a.s H e a t t h e w a t e r t o 70-75C. Add t h e Veegum P l u s and m i x a t ’ 1 8 0 0 r p m f o r 20 m i n u t e s . S l o w l y m i x i n t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . Mix t h e Part B ingredients thoroughly i n t o Part A u n t i l u n i f o r m . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 70 t o 75C. H e a t P a r t C t o 70 t o 75C and add t o P a r t s A + B . M i x u n t i l c o o l i n g . A t 40C, add P a r t D and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . ~~

~

Mascara Ingredients: W t .%* A : Demi n e r a l ized Water 56.10 Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e 1.20 B u t y l ene G1 y c o l 10.00 C e l l u l o s e Gum (CMC 7MF) 0.60 Methylparaben 0.20 0.20 D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (Germall 11) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% 1.50 B: C a n d e l i l l a Wax 10.00 Stearic Acid 7.00 I s o s t e a r i c Acid 1 .oo Mineral O i l 2.00 Propylparaben 0.20 C : I r o n O x i d e (C33-134 C o s m e t i c B l a c k ) 10.00 I n t o a s i d e k e t t l e add a l l P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . I n t o t h e m a i n k e t t l e , f i t t e d w i t h a homogenizer t y p e d i s p e r s e r , weigh t h e f o l l o w i n g : w a t e r ; s p r i n k l e i n t h e Veegum; i t i s t h o r o u g h l y d i s p e r s e d add t h e b u t y l e n e g l y c o l ; d u s t i n t h e CMC; when t h e CMC i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . D u s t i n P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h h i g h m i l l i n g a n d r a i s e t h e tempe r a t u r e t o 76C. H e a t P a r t €3 t o 79C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add P a r t B t o t h e m a i n k e t t l e w i t h h i g h m i l l i n g f o r 15 m i n . Sweep c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e t o e l i m i n a t e t h e a i r . *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : F o r m u l a s No. 460 & Sun Chemical

Beauty Aids

95

Topical Spray Powder Ingredients: Anhydrous E t h a n o l AMP R e g u l a r Dermacryl-79 D r y - F l o PC P r o p e l 1 a n t A-46

% by Weight

42.00 0.38 2.00 10.00 45.62

Procedure: D i s s o l v e AMP i n e t h a n o l . W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n D e r m a c r y l - 7 9 . When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , s i f t i n D r y - F l o P C . M i x w e l l u n t i l homogeneous. F i l l c a n s . V a l v e : S e a q u i s t NS-41 Stem O r i f i c e : 2 x 0 . 0 2 5 Gasket : Buna P 0 . 0 4 2 " THK Code 150 R e g u l a r , Epoxy Top, L a m i n a t e B o t t o m D i m p l e d , cup : Code 1610, T a p e r s e a l 0 . 0 2 0 ss Spring: Seat : None Body : 0.062 Standard Vapor T a p : 0.018" Tubing I D : 0.165" A-D D i m : Actual 8 A c t u a t o r S t y l e : E x c e l 1 100 M i s t y O r i f i c e Size: 0.018" M i s t y CO.

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0373 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemi c a l (7423-858) Hydroalcoholic Fragranced Spray Gel

Ingredients: S t a b i l e z e XL-80W 200 p r o o f e t h a n o l AMP-95 V a n i l l a BB-36943 Procedure: 1 . Add E t h a n o l t o S t a b i l e z e XL-80%' and m i x w e l l . 2 . Add AMP-95 t o t h e b a t c h and m i x w e l l . 3 . Add a f r a g r a n c e and m i x w e l l . 4 . Package. P h y s i c a l C h a r a c t e r i s t ic s : A c l e a r yellowish sprayable g e l . A p p a r e n t pH: 6 . 0 S t a b i l i t y : S t a b l e a t RT f o r 3 m o n t h s . Recommended S p r a y e r : Calmar M a r k I V F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0378 s u g g e s t e d b y I S P ( 1 0 2 2 7 - 5 )

SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l Co. : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

% by Weight

24.60-17.14 70.00-77.59 0.40- 0.27 5.00- 5.00

96

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Vitamin F Skin Moisturizer Formula: A: Stearic Acid C e t i o l MM M y r i s t y l M y r i s t a t e C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) Lanette 0 Cetearyl Alcohol V i t a m i n F F o r t e CLR

% by Weight

4.0 5.0 10.0 1.5 1.o

B: 76.8 0.1 0.2

Water D o w i c i l 200 C a r b o p o l 941 C: T r i e t h a n o l ami ne D: D&C Y e l l o w No. 5 ( 0 . 1 a s . ) Fragrance

1.o 0.2 0.2

Procedure: M i x and h e a t P a r t A t o 65-70C. D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l 941 i n t o w a t e r and m i x P a r t B . Add C t o B and h e a t t o 65-7OC. Add B-C t o P a r t A and m i x u n t i l c o o l e d t o 40C. Add D when c o o l e d t o 35-4OC. A d j u s t pH t o 7 . 5 . Body Smoother

Formula: O i l Phase: Super S t e r o l E s t e r P o l awax ( C r o d a ) C r o d a c o l C-95 ( C r o d a ) Carnation Mineral O i 1 (Wi tco) W a t e r Phase: Croquat M (Croda) G1 y c e r i ne Germaben I I W a t e r , Dei o n i zed H y d r o s o y 2000/SF ( C r o d a )

% by W e i g h t

10.0 7.5 2.0 10.0

2.0 5.0 1. o 61 . 5 1. o

Procedure: H e a t o i l phase t o 75-78C. H e a t w a t e r phase t o 75-8OC. Add w a t e r t o o i l w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M i x . C o o l t o 45C. Add H y d r o s o y 2000/SF.

SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

97

Waterproof Special Effects Mascara

Wt%

Phase # : 1 S o l t r o l 100 1 P o l y e t h y l e n e 6A 1 C a n d e l l i 1a wax OH1 an 1

30.95 11 . o o 4.50 0.25

2 2

Pentalyn C S o l t r o l 100

2.00 2.00

3 3

M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben

0.20 0.10

4

Zinc Stearate

1.oo

5

B e n t o n e Gel SS71

6

P e a r l Pigment

35.00

Rona P e a r l P i g m e n t C o m b i n a t i o n s : A D i c h r o n a BG B Colorona Dark B l u e C Transparent Black D C o l o r o n a Magenta E Col o r o n a Ma] e s t ic Green F Colorona Dark B l u e G D i c h r o n a BG

13.00 13.00 13.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00

Procedure: P r e p a r e phase #2 i n a d v a n c e : combine i n a c l o s e d v e s s e l . Heat t o 65-70C w i t h c o n s t a n t L i g h t n i n ' m i x e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c l e a r . Combine phase # l i n a c l o s e d v e s s e l . Heat t o 90-95C w i t h L i g h t n i n ' m i x e r a g i t a t i o n . When c l e a r , add t o r e m a i n i n g p h a s e s i n o r d e r , i n s u r i n g t h a t each i s f u l l y d i s p e r s e d b e f o r e p r o c e e d i n g . Cool t o 30C w i t h s i d e s w e e p a g i t a t i o n . A t 55C, c h e c k f o r s o l v e n t 1 o s s and a d j u s t if n e c e s s a r y .

SOURCE:

Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n AN251

98

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

W/O Liquid Foundation Ingredients: Phase A : C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i 1 EM-90) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 O l e a t e ( I s o l a n GO-33) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9 8 0 1 ) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OF) Hydrogenated Castor O i l Beeswax

Weight%

Phase 6: Cyclomethi cone Phase C : Red, Y e l l o w , B l a c k I r o n O x i d e s T i t a n i urn D i o x i d e Talc Phase D : B u t y l e n e G1 y c o l Water S o d i urn C h l o r i d e Phase E : Fragrance

2.00 1.oo 1 .oo 1.00 0.40 0.80

18.00

3.00 7.80 1 .70

2.80 60.00 0.50 Q.S

Procedure: 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . M i x and h e a t t o 85-9OC. M i x u n t i l uniform. 2 . Cool t o 50C. Add C y c l o m e t h i c o n e . 3. Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase C . M i x t h o r o u g h l y t o d i s p e r s e . 4 . Cool t o 5 0 C w i t h m i x i n g . 5 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase D a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e . Add Phase 0 s l o w l y t o A / B / C m i x t u r e w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . 6 . I n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n speed a f t e r a l l o f Phase D i s a d d e d . (10-1 5 minutes) . 7 . Homogen i z e . 8 . Fragrance,

SOURCE: Goldschmi d t Chemical C o r p , : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t ion

Beauty Aids

W/O Moisturizing Emulsion

Ingredients: A) M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) D y n a c e r i n 660 ( 0 1 e y l E r u c a t e ) S o f t i s a n 645 ( B i s - d i g l y c e r y l P o l y a c r y l a d i p a t e - 2 ) I m w i t o r 780K ( I s o s t e a r y l D i g l y c e r y l S u c c i n a t e ) A b i l WE 09 (Polyglyceryl-4-Isostearate ( a n d ) C e t y l Dimethicone Copolyol (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ) L u n a c e r a M ( H y d r o g e n a t e d M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax)

8) D-Panthenol P r e s e r v a t ive Water

Weight% 8.00 5.00

4.00 3.00 4.00 1.00

2.00 q.s.

67.00

C) T o c o p h e r y l A c e t a t e 3.00 H y d r o v i t o n ( W a t e r ( a n d ) Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) L a c t i c A c i d (and) G l y c e r i n (and) S e r i n e (and) S o r b i t o l (and) TEA-Lactate (and) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (and) Urea ( a n d ) Sodi um C h l o r i d e ( a n d ) L a u r y l D i e t h y l e n e d i ami nog l y c i n e ( a n d ) A1 1 a n t o i n ( a n d ) L a u r y l ami n o p r o p y l 3.00 g l y c i n e ( a n d ) SD A l c o h o l 39-C) P r e p a r a t ion : ( A ) i s h e a t e d t o 65 d e g r e e s C . and homogeneously m i x e d . (6) i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and t h e n e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . (C) c a n be m i x e d w i t h t h e w a t e r phase o r added i n a f t e r wards. Formul a t ion 1 . 2 K Skin Care Oil with Citric Acid Ester Wei g h t % Ingredients: A) I m w i t o r 3 7 5 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e / L i n o l e a t e / 01 e a t e ) 10.00 M i g l y o l 810 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 40.00 M i g l yo1 840 ( P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ) 20.00 S o f t i g e n 701 ( G l y c e r y l R i c i n o l e a t e ) 1.00 Mineral O i l 29.00 q.s. Antioxidants F r a g r a n c e Men A t S p o r t 61569 0.30 P r e p a r a t ion : A l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 45 d e g r e e s C . F o r m u l a t i o n 1 .5U ( 1 )

SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

99

100

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

W/O Sheer Make-up

Inqredients: Phase A : C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l EM 9 0 ) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 O l e a t e ( I s o l a n GO 3 3 ) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9 8 0 1 ) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) Hydrogenated Castor O i l Beeswax D e c y l O l e a t e ( T e g o s o f t DO) D i m e t h i c o n e 350 c s t O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosoft OS)

Weight%

Phase 0 : C yc l om et hi cone Phase C : I r o n O x i d e s : Red, Y e l l o w , B l a c k , Brown Titanium Dioxide Phase D : Water Sodium C h l o r i d e Propylene G1y c o l

2.00 0.75 2.00 3.00 0.40 0.80 1 .oo 0.25 3.00

15.00 0.30 2.10 66.90 0.50 2.00

Procedure: 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . M i x and h e a t t o 85-9OC. Mix u n t i l uniform. 2 . Cool t o 7 0 C . Add C y c l o m e t h i c o n e . 3 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase C . M i x t h o r o u g h l y t o d i s p e r s e . 4 . Cool t o 50C w i t h m i x i n g . 5 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase D a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e . Add Phase D s l o w l y t o A / B / C m i x t u r e w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n 6 . Homogeni z e .

SOURCE: Goldschrnidt Chemical Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Section V Creams

101

102

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

AEC Cocoa Butter Cream

___ Quantity Stage MateriaJL Stage A : 1 L i g h t Mineral O i l 2 0 . ooog 2 Petroleum J e l l y ; White 2 5 . OOOg 3 Cocoa B u t t e r , R e f i n e d 4 4 . OOOg 4 C a s t o r w a x Mp80 1 0 . ooog Cooling Cycle: 5 Vitamin E Acetate 0,5009 6 C a r r o t O i l ; Novarom 0.1009 7 P . C o c o a b u t t e r AA 6780 0.400g Mixing Instructions: Change i n m a t e r i a l p r o p o r t i o n s t o make i t l e s s d r a g g y and n e a r e r Palmers O r i g i n a l . Use a j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s u i t a b l e f o r h e a t i n g and c o o l i n g , p r e f e r a b l y f i t t e d w i t h a gate o r anchor t y p e m i x e r . S t a g e 1 : Weigh i n t h e m i n e r a l o i 1 and commence h e a t i n g w i t h slow s t i r r i n g . Add P e t r o l e u m J e l l y and c o n t i n u e h e a t i n g and s t i r r i n g u n t i l a l l melted, Add Cocoa B u t t e r and C a s t o r Wax and c o n t i n u e h e a t i n g and s t i r r i n g u n t i 1 a1 1 m e l t e d , t h e t e m p e r a t u r e s h o u l d n o t e x c e e d 6 0 C . When a c l e a r , homogeneous m i x i s o b t a i n e d s t a r t c o o l i n g w i t h c o n t i n u o u s m i x i ng . C o o l i n g S t a g e : Add t h e V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e and C a r r o t O i l a t a b o u t 55C and t h e Perfume a t a b o u t 40C. The p r o d u c t w i l l t h i c k e n and t h e n s e t , i d e a l l y i t s h o u l d b e h o t f i l l e d j u s t above i t s s e t t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e . Some e x p e r i m e n t a l b a t c h e s may be n e c e s s a r y t o d e t e r m i n e t h e optimum f i l l i n g temperature. P r o j e c t : JW 2527/Formul a R e f . : 1186*3 Cocoa Butter Cream S t a g e M a t e r I a1 . Quanti t y O i l Phase: 1 L;ght M i n e r a l O i l 1 7 . OOOg 2 Cocoa B u t t e r , R e f i n e d 42 OOOg 3 Petroleum J e l l y ; White 32.5009 4 C a s t o r w a x Mp80 8 OOOg Cool in g C y c l e : 5 P . C o c o a b u t t e r AA 6780 0.5009 Mixing Instructions: Weigh o u t t h e m i n e r a l o i l and s t a r t h e a t i n g . Add each i t e m i n t u r n , m i x and c o n t i n u e h e a t i n g u n t i l a l l i n g r e d i e n t s have me1 t e d . S w i t c h o f f h e a t and c o o l w i t h s l o w m i x i n g , add t h e p e r f u m e a t 40C. The p r o d u c t may t h e n b e f i l l e d h o t . P r o j e c t : JW 2 4 5 0 / F o r m u l a R e f . 1005*0 I

I

SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

103

AHA Renewal Cream

T h i s e l e g a n t , w h i t e AHA-cream w i t h l o w pH i s an a c t i v e a n t i w r i n k l e formula. P e n t a v i t i n reduces s k i n ' s s e n s i t i v i t y p r e v e n t i n g from i r r i t a t i o n r e a c t i o n s . Furthermore, P e n t a v i t i n increases t h e moisture content o f the skin.

Item 1 2 3 4

5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

Ingredie n t x A) P r o m u l g e n D Soya O i l A r l a c e l 165 M y r j 59 Dow C o r n i n g 345 F l u i d F i toderm M i g l y o l 812 8 ) D e i o n i z e d Water Phenoni p G1 y c e r i n 1 , 3 - B u t a n d i 01 Pemulen TR-1 C) D e i o n i z e d Water I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a G1 y c o l ic A c i d Pentavitin D ) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne F r a g r a n c e : R i V a l ia 0/221212

Weight% 3.50 1.00

3.50 1 .oo 2.50 5.00

4.00 60.00 0.30 3.00 3.00

0.20 2.50 0.20 5.00 5.00 0,30

Procedure: D i s p e r s e Pemulen (12) i n p h a s e B ) and h e a t t o 7 5 C . H e a t p h a s e A) t o 70C. Under s t i r r i n g , add p h a s e A) t o p h a s e B ) , c o o l t o 50C, homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Add phase C) and a d j u s t pH w i t h i t e m 17 t o 3 . 5 . Add f r a g r a n c e (18) and s t i r cold.

SOURCE: P e n t a p h a r m L t d . : A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 034.1/03.96 Glycerin Cream with Citric Acid Esters Ingredients: I m w i t o r 377 ( G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e / C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e ) I m w i t o r 900 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) M i g l yo1 81 2 ( C a p r y l ic / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) P a r a f f i n , White C e t y l A1 coho1 B) K e l t r o l F ( X a n t h a n Gum) Glycerin Preservative Water

A)

Wei s h t %

5.00 4.00 5.00 5.00 4.00

0.50 5.00 q.s.

71.50

P r e p a r a t io n : ( A ) i s h e a t e d t o c a . 65 d e g r e e s C . ( B ) i s h e a t e d up t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . The cream i s c o n s t a n t l y s t i r r e d u n t i l cool.

SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . :

Formulation 1. l o

104

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Alpha Hydroxy Acid Liposome Cream An e l e g a n t w h i t e creamy e m u l s i o n d e l i v e r i n g Rovisome AHA ( L a c t i c Acid) t o the skin. Ingredients: 1 . R i t a C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (50/50) 2. Steareth-2 3. Steareth-21 4 . PPG-15 S t e a r y l E t h e r 5. D i o c t y l Adipate 6 . D i o c t y l c y c l ohexane 7 . Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d ( 2 0 0 c s t ) 8 . R i t a s i 1 190 ( D i m e t h i cone Cop01 yo1 ) 9 . S u n f l o w e r Seed O i 1 l O . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 11.1,3 Butylene Glycol 1 2 . X a n t h a n Gum ( K e l t r o l CG-T) 13. R o v i some-AHA ( L a c t ic A c i d ) 1 4 . M e t h y l d i b r o m o G l u t a r o n i t r i l e and P h e n o x y e t h a n o l

2.50 2.50 1.50 3.00 3.00 2.00 2.00 0.50 4.00 68.40 4.00 0.30 6.00 0.30

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 12 i n w a t e r and b u t y l e n e g l y c o l m i x t u r e . I n s e p a r a t e b e a k e r h e a t i t e m s 1-9 t o 70C. H e a t w a t e r phase t o 70C and add t o o i l p h a s e . Then homogenize and c o o l t o 35C. Add Rovisome and p r e s e r v a t i v e . R e f . NO. 122-94

Washable Cleansing Cream A g l o s s y c l e a n s i n g cream w i t h w a t e r r i n s a b i l i t y and r e s i d u a l e m o l l i e n c e . C l a r i s k i n h e l p s t o a t t e n u a t e s k i n brown s p o t s .

Ingredients: 1. Ritalan (Lanolin O i l ) 2 . Mineral O i l (Drakeol-9) 3. S t e a r i c Acid 4 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 5 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 6. G l y c e r i n e 7 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (50%) 8. R i tabate-60 (Polysorbate-60) 9 . Glydant 10.Perfume 1 1 . C l a r i s k i n (Yeast E x t r a c t ) Compounding Heat 1-4 w a t e r phase R e f . No.

w 3.00 20.00 5.00 3.00 54.00 5.00 3.00 2.00 q.s. q.s. 5.00

Procedure: i t e m s t o 70C. Heat i t e m s 5-9 t o 65C. Add o i l p h a s e t o w i t h a g i t a t i o n . C o o l t o 40C and add i t e m s 10 and 1 1 . 122-108

SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

105

Anti-Wrinkle Cream M a t e r i a1 : Water; P u r e Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l USP AEC O c t y l P a l m i t a t e AEC H y d r o x y o c t a c o s a n y l H y d r o x y s t e a r a t e AEC PEG 45 D o d e c y l g l y c o l Copolymer Cocoa B u t t e r , R e f in e d GMS NSE AEC M e t h o x y Peg 22 D o d e c y l g l y c o l Copolymer N i p a g u a r d BPX Fragrance

%w/w 65.250 7.000 5.000 5.000 5.000 4.000 3.000 3 IO00 2.000 0.500 0.250

F o r m u l a R e f . : 1081*O AEC Cocoa Butter Cream

%w/w

M a t e r i a1 : Cocoa B u t t e r , R e f ined P e t r o l e u m J e l l y; W h i t e Light Mineral O i l C a s t o r w a x Mp80 Vitamin E Acetate P . C o c o a b u t t e r AA 6780 C a r r o t O i l ; Novarom Formula R e f . :

44.000 25.000 20.000 10.000 0.500 0.400 0.100

1186*3 Cocoa Butter Cream

M a t e r i a1 : Cocoa B u t t e r , R e f ined Petroleum J e l l y , White Light Mineral O i l C a s t o r w a x Mp80 P . C o c o a b u t t e r AA 6780 Forrnul a R e f . : 1005*0

SOURCE: A&E Connock,

L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

%w/w 42.000 32.500 17.000 8.000 0.500

106

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Anti-Wrinkle Moisturizing Cream

A m o i s t u r i z i n g cream f o r m u l a t i o n t h a t g i v e s a smooth, creamy product t h a t f i g h t s wrinkles. L n n r e d i e1 . R i t a c h o l 1000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 3.00 2 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 3.00 3 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 1 .oo 4. Stearic Acid 2.75 5 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 2 * 00 6 . Ritaderm ( R . I . T . A . Blend) 10.00 7 . R i t a S S O ( S u n f l o w e r Seed O i l ) 4.00 8 . BHA 0.10 9 . Propylparaben 0.10 1 0 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i z e d W a t e r 64.50 1 1 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer) 0.10 1 2 . G l y c e r i ne 5.00 0.10 13. Methylparaben 1 4 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 1 .25 1 5 . R e d u c t i n e (Oat P r o t e i n ) 2.00 1 6 . Q u a t e r n i u m 15 ( 2 0 % S o l u t i o n ) 0.10 1 7 , Fragrance 1.oo Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat i t e m s 1-7 t o 70C. S l o w l y add i t e m 11 t o i t e m 1 0 w h i l e s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l a homogeneous m i x t u r e i s f o r m e d . Add i t e m s 12-14 t o i t e m s 10-11 and h e a t t o 70C. Add o i l t o w a t e r a t 70C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . B e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 40C add i t e m s 1 5 - 1 7 . R e f . No. 1 2 0 - 1 8 8

w

Anti-Wrinkle Treatment Cream Iaredients: YowJ4-J 1 , R i t a C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l 50/50 2.50 2 . Steareth-2 2.50 3. Steareth-21 1.50 4 . PPG-15 S t e a r y l E t h e r 3.00 5. D i o c t y l Adipate 3.00 6 . D i o c t y l c y c l ohexane 2.00 7 . C y c l o m e t h i cone 2,oo 8 . Dimethicone 0.50 9 . R i t a SSO ( S u n f l o w e r Seed O i l ) 4.00 1 0 , D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i z e d W a t e r 68,40 11 1 , 3 - B u t y l ene G 1 y c o l 4.00 1 2 . X a n t h a n Gum 0.30 1 3 . Reduct i n e ( O a t P r o t e i n ) 6.00 0.30 14.Methyldibrorno G l u t a r o n i t r i l e Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 12 i n w a t e r and b u t y l e n e g l y c o l m i x t u r e , H e a t t o 7OC. Combine i t e m s 1-9 and h e a t t o 70C. Add t o w a t e r p h a s e . M i x and c o o l t o 30C. Add i t e m s 13 l n d 1 4 . R e f . No. 120-193

..~

.

SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

107

Anti-Wrinkle Treatment Cream

Inqredi ents: 1 . Rita Cetearyl Alcohol 5O/SO 2 Steareth-2 3. St~areth-21 4. PPG-15 Stearyl Ether 5 . Dioctyl Adipate 6. D i octyl Cyclohexane 7. Dow Corn?ng 200 Fluid (200 cst) 8. Ritasil 190 (Dimethicone Copolyol) 9. Sunflower Seed Oil 10.Distiilled/Deionized Water 11.1,3 Butylene Glycol 12.Xanthan Gum 13.Rovi some ACE (ROVI 31 end) 14.Reductine (Oat Protein) 15,Methyldibromo Glutaronitri le and Phenoxyethanol

SWLVj 2.50 2.50 1 .50

3.00 3.00 2.00 2.00 0.50 4.00 64,40 4.00 0.30 5.00 5.00 0.30

Compounding Procedure: Disperse item 12 in items 10 and 1 1 a n d heat to 70C. Mix items 1-9 and heat to 70C. Add water phase to oil phase, then homogenize. Cool to 35C and add items 13-15. Ref. No. 122-96 Night-Cream A smooth, moisturizing cream containing Clariskin for preventing and attenuating age spots.

Ingredi en-ts; 1 . Ritachol 2000 (R.I.T.A.Blend) 2. Rita SA (Stearyl Alcohol) 3 . Mineral Oil (Britol-7) 4. Lanol i n X-Tra Deo 5 . Ritaderm (R.I.T.A.Blend) 6 . Propylparaben 7. Butylated Hydroxyanisole 8 . D i s t i lled/Deionized Water 9. Acritamer 941 (Carbomer) 10 Propylene G1 ycol 11.Methylparaben 1 2 T r 1 et h ano 1 ami ne 99% 13,Bromopol 14.Clariskin (Yeast Extract) 15.Perfume I

I

%W%W 8.00

2.50 12.00

1 .oo 10.00 0.10

0.10 55.96 0.10

5.00 0.10 0.10 0.04 5.00 q.s.

Cornpounding Procedure: Combine items 1-7 and heat to 75C. Disperse item 9 into water until lump free. Add items 1 0 and 1 1 and heat to 75C. Add oil phase to water phase with agitation. Cool to 40-45C and add items 13-15. Cool to 25-30C and package. Ref. No. 122-818 SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp.: Suggested Formulations

108

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Basic-Cream with AHA-Esters, Food Approved Ingredients: Wei a h t % A . M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 16.00 5.00 S o f t i s a n 378 (Caprylic/Capric/Stearic T r i g l y c e r i d e ) I m w i t o r 375 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e / L i n o l e a t e / 01e a t e ) 5.00 I m w i t o r 928 ( G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ) 3.00 I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e C i t r a t e ) 7.00 A n t i o x i dant q.s. 5.00 q.s. 100.00

B. G l y c e r o l Preservative W a t e r , ad Fragrance

q.s.

Preparation: I n g r e d i e n t s o f A a r e heated t o about 70C. B i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o A . The cream i s s t i r r e d c o l d and a t a b o u t 30C f r a g r a n c e i s a d d e d . F o r m u l a t i o n BAS FO Eye Wrinkle Cream with UV Absorber With citric acid ester as active ingredient Inqredi ent: Wei q h t % M i g l y o l 818 ( C a p r y l ic / C a p r i c / L i n o l e i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 5.00 M i g l yo1 829 ( C a p r y l ic / C a p r i c / D i g l y c e r y l S u c c i n a t e ) 5.00 D y n a c e r i n 660 ( O l e y l E r u c a t e ) 5.00 I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e ) 5.00 I m w i t o r 375 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e / L i n o l e a t e / O l e a t e ) 8.00 E v e n i ng P r i m r o s e O i 1 3.00 Antioxidant 4,s.

A.

B. K e l t r o l F ( X a n t h a n Gum) M e t h o c e l K 100 LV ( H y d r o x y m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ) Preservative W a t e r , ad

0.50 Om 50 q.s. 100.00

P r e p a r a t i on : I n g r e d i e n t s o f A a r e h e a t e d t o a b o u t 70C. To b u i l d p h a s e 6 K e l t r o l F and M e t h o c e l i s d i s p e r s e d i n w a t e r and s t i r r e d t o h o m o g e n e i t y . Then B i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o A. The cream i s s t i r r e d c o l d . F o r m u l a t i o n EYE OW

SOURCE: H u l s A k t i e n g e s e l l s c h a f t :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

109

Bleaching Night Cream Against Age Spots T h i s a g r e e a b l e , r i c h n i g h t cream c o n t a i n s F a d e o u t , w h i c h h a s bleaching a c t i v i t y . Pentavitin provides the s k i n w i t h moisture and r e g e n e r a t e s t h e s k i n . Item: ____ 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

8 9

Ingredients: Cremophor A-6 Cremophor A-25 C u t i na GMS Lanette-0 Stearic Acid Paraffin oil C e t i o l SN Vase1 ine w h i t e Abi 1-350

o"/w&

.__

2.50 2.50 4 -00 3.00 1.oo 10.00 5.00 3.00 0.40

A)

10 11 12 13 14 15

B ) Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d

16

C)

54.60 0.20 0.50 3.00 5.00 5.00

I m i d a z o l id i n y l u r e a Phenoni p G1 y c e r i n Pentavi t i n Fadeou t F r a g r a n c e / C h i a r a 0/238927

0.30

Procedure: Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f p h a s e B ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add p h a s e B ) t o p h a s e A ) , c o o l t o 50C, homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then a d d p h a s e C) and s t i r c o l d .

SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d , : A p p l ic a t i on No

I

A 032

I

B/O1 96 I

110

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cleansing Cold Cream W/O F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s c l a s s i c p r o d u c t h a s a n a t u r a l m i l d o r a n g e aroma w h i c h r e f r e s h e s w h i l e d e e p l y c l e a n s i n g t h e s k i n o f d i r t and o i l s , l e a v i n g t h e s k i n smooth and s i l k y . N a t u r a l a n t i - m i c r o b i a l a g e n t s i n h e r e n t i n t h e beeswax and o r a n g e wax p r e s e r v e t h i s p r o d u c t a l o n g w i t h t h e pH ( p H = 8 ) .

wt%

O i l Phase: NF W h i t e Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) C e r e s i n e Wax 1 3 0 / 1 3 5 ( K o s t e r Keunen) D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) L i o h t Mineral O i l (Witco) Propylene Glycol Stearate ( I n o l e x )

10.0 6.0 4.0 38.5 2.0

W a t e r Phase: Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) C a r b o p o l 940 2% S o l u t i o n (BF Goodr c h Sodium B o r a t e ( B o r a x )

27.5 10.0 2.0

Procedure: Add C a r b o p o l s o l u t i o n t o t h e wa e r p h a s e m i x and h e a t t o 75C, add b o r a x u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . M i x and me t o i l p h a s e t o 75C. Add o i l p h a s e t o t h e w a t e r p h a s e w h i l e m i x i n g . Cool and p o u r i n t o contai ners. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : Small changes i n t h i s f o r m u l a a r e p o s s i b l e , such as, r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f t h e o r a n g e wax w i l l e l i m i n a t e t h e n a t u r a l o r a n g e aroma. P l a n t o i l s c a n b e added i n l o w c o n c e n t r a t i o n s f o r 1a b e l c l a i m s .

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen,

I n c . : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g Hand Care Cream

u Part A:

S u l f e t a l CJOT 6 0 I m w i t o r 960

P a r t 8 : Water

10.0 14.0 75.5

P a r t C: P e r f u m e , p r e s e r v a t i v e

0.5

M i x p a r t A and C s e p a r a t e l y . Add p a r t B and C s u c c e s s i v e l y t o part A whilst stirring. A d j u s t pH t o a p p r o x . pH 6 . 5 u s i n g c i t r i c a c i d .

SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & C o . :

F o r m u l a t i o n B 27/18

Creams

111

Cream Foundation W t .%*

Ingredient: A : D e i o n i z e d Water

39.80

B: Veegum U l t r a , Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e Rhodi g e l , X a n t h a n Gum

1 .oo 0.20

C:

Propylene Glycol

5.00

D:

I r o n Oxides T i t a n i um D i o x i d e

2.17 8.83

E: Cetearyl Alcohol

(and) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 (Lipowax D) 4.00 C e t e a r e t h - 4 ( L i poco1 SC-4) 2.00 Decyl O l e a t e 4.00 Mineral O i l 20 * 00 Stearic Acid 2-00 Lanolin O i l 3.00 PPG-15 S t e a r y l E t h e r 3.00 Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben ( a n d ) P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) B u t y l p a r a b e n ( U n i p h e n P-23) 1 . 0 0 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (and) L e c i t h i n (and) T o c o p h e r o l ( U n i p h e r o l U-14) 0.70

F : T r i m e t h y l d o d e c a t r i e n o l ( U n i s t a b S-69) Farnesyl A c e t a t e (and) Farnesol (and) Panthenyl T r i a c e t a t e ( U n i t r i e n o l T-27)

0.50

G: Water I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a ( U n i c i d e 4-1 3 )

0.50 0.30

2.00

Procedure: Dry b l e n d t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat t h e P a r t A water t o 70C. Add t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a t 1800 rpm. Add P a r t C and m i x 5 m i n u t e s . Add t h e P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s s i m u l t a n e o u s l y and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m l y d i s p e r s e d . M i x and h e a t t h e P a r t E i n g r e d i e n t s t o 70C. Add P a r t E t o P a r t s A+B+C+D and m i x 10 m i n u t e s . S l o w t h e m i x e r and c o o l t h e b a t c h t o 45C and add P a r t s F and G i n t h e o r d e r shown. C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g t o 30C and p a c k a g e . *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , Induchern AG

I n c . : Veegurn F o r m u l a t i o n f r o m

112

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cream, Type O/W, with MPC-Milk Peptide Complex*

a ) Emulgade 1000 N I 4.00 L a n e t t e 16 1 .oo M y r i t o l 318 10.00 Phenoni p 0.30 b ) Water, d i s t i l l e d 50.00 C a r b o p o l 934 0.40 c) W a t e r , d i s t i l l e d 23.60 Phenoni p 0.30 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 0.40 d ) Water, d i s t i l l e d 9.36 Na3-Ci t r a t e , a n h y d r o u s 0.14 M P C - M i 1 k P e p t i de Compl ex 0.50 Manufacture: M e l t a ) and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C. M e l t b ) , b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C and add t o a ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C. D i s s o l v e c ) and add t o a b ) . D i s s o l v e d ) a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and add t o a b c ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Perfume, homogen i ze Cream, Type W/O, with MPC-Milk Peptide-Complex A r l a c e l 1689 G-4909 0.50 Lunacera M 3.00 P a r a f f . i num sub1 i q u i d u m 12.00 0.50 Beeswax Vase1 i n e 6.00 4.00 Cocoa b u t t e r 4.00 Vegetable o i 1 Phenoni p 0.30 Oxynex LM 0.05 51 . 8 5 Water, d i s t i 1l e d 0.30 Phenoni p G1 y c e r i n 4.00 Magnesi um s u l f a t e 0.50 Water, d i s t i l l e d 9.38 0.12 N a 3 - C i t r a t e x 2H20 M P C - M i 1 k P e o t i de Comol ex 0.50 Manufacture: M e l t a ) and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 75C. B r i n g b ) t o a p p r o x . 75C and s t i r i n t o a ) . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C. D i s s o l v e c ) a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and add t o a b ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Perfume, r o l l . * M P C - M i 1 k P e p t i de Compl ex c o n t a i n s n a t u r a l p o l y p e p t i d e s f r o m milk, i n a c t i v a t e d form.

SOURCE: Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i u m D r . K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH:

Formulas

Creams

113

Day Cream with Evening Primrose Oil Ingredients: Wei g h t % A ) M i g l y o l 818 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c / L i n o l e i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 5.00 M i g l y o l 829 (Caprylic/Capric/Diglyceryl S u c c i n a t e ) 5.00 D y n a c e r i n 660 ( O l e y l E r u c a t e ) 5.00 I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e ) 5.00 I m w i t o r 375 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e / L i n o l e a t e / Oleate) 8.00 Eveni ng P r i m r o s e O i 1 3.00 Antioxidants 9,s.

B ) M e t h o c e l K 100 LV ( H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ) 0.50 K e l t r o l F ( X a n t h a n Gum) 0.50 H y d r o v i t o n ( W a t e r ( a n d ) Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) L a c t i c A c i d (and) G l y c e r i n (and) S e r i n e (and) S o r b i t o l (and) TEA-Lactate (and) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (and) Urea ( a n d ) Sodium C h l o r i d e ( a n d ) L a u r y l D i e t h y l e n e d i a m i n o g l y c i n e ( a n d ) A l l a n t o i n ( a n d ) L a u r y l Aminop r o p y l g l y c i ne ( a n d ) SD A1 coho1 39-C) 3.00 Preservative 9.S. Water up t o 1 0 0 . 0 0 Perfume O i l 9.S. Preparation: ( A ) i s added t o g e t h e r , h e a t e d up t o 75-80 d e g r e e s C . , and homogenized. ( B ) i s s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous, h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e , and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . The cream i s t h e n stirred u n t i l cool. F o r m u l a t i o n 1.1Q Basic O/W Cream, with Citric Acid Esters Ingredients: Wei q h t % A) S o f t i s a n 378 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c / S t e a r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 5.00 M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 16.00 I m w i t o r 375 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e / L i no1 e a t e / 5.00 01 e a t e ) I m w i t o r 928 ( G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ) 3.00 I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e C i t r a t e ) 7.00 Antioxidants q.s.

B) G l y c e r i n P r e s e r v a t iv e s Water Perfume O i l

5.00 q.s. up t o 100.00 0.30

P r e p a r a t io n : ( A ) i s h e a t e d up t o c a . 75 d e g r e e s C . , and ( B ) i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . The p e r f u m e i s added a t c a . d e g r e e s C . Formulation 1.1P

SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

114

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Dry Skin Cream

Formula: % by Wei ght Water Phase; Water q.s. to 100 Triethanolamine 0.3 Glycerine 2,0 Methylparaben 0.2 O i l Phase: White Protopet 15 Petrolatum (Witco) 3,0 Carnation Mineral O i l (Witco) 4.0 Cetyl Alcohol 0.5 Isopropyl R i c i n o l e a t e 3.0 Sorbitan Oleate 2.0 Steari c Acid 1.0 Naturechem GMHS (CasChem) 3.0 Naturechem EGHS (CasChem) 1.5 Naturechem OHS (CasChem) 2.0 Ceresi ne Wax 1. 1 Laureth 23 0.3 Propylparaben O.1 Fragrance 0.3 Procedure: Heat both phases to 8OC. Add o i l phase to water phase w i t h h i g h speed m i x i n g . M a i n t a i n 8OC temperature w h i l e m i x i n g for 15 m i n u t e s . A l l o w to cool and continue m i x i n g to 35C; add fragrance; mix thoroughly.

Aloe Night Cream EonDJJJLJLL A: Water Methylparaben Promulgen-D Triethanolamine B: Ceraphyl-368 Kessco-653 Emerson-132 Carnation M i n e r a l O i l (Witco) Glyceryl Monostearate Propylparaben Vybar-5013 (Petrolite) C: Aloe-Con WG-40 (Florida Food Products) D: Fragrance

SOURCE: Witco Corp.: Suggested Formulations

%_by_Weight 67.625 0,2 2.0 0.75 10.0 3.0 6.0 6.0 2.0 0.05 2.0 0.375 q.s,

Creams

115

Emollient Cream Ingredient: W t .%* A : M e t h y l G l u c o s e D i o l e a t e ( G l u c a t e DO) 1.50 PEG 20 M e t h y l G l u c o s e S e s q u i s t e a r a t e (G1 ucamate SSE-20) 3.00 Petrolatum 8.00 Isopropyl Palmitate (Propal) 3.00 Mineral O i l 6.00 Dimethicone 0.50 Stearyl Alcohol (Stearal) 2 .oo Cetyl Alcohol (Cetal) 1.oo B: D e i o n i z e d W a t e r 73.70 1.oo Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e Rhodi g e l , X a n t h a n Gum 0.30 C: Preservative q.s. Procedure: Weigh P a r t B w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and m i x w i t h homog e n i z e r a t 5000 r p m . Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum and R h o d i g e l and add t h e m s l o w l y t o t h e w a t e r . M i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s a t 5000 r p m . B e g i n h e a t i n g t o 70C. Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l and h e a t t o 70C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B and m i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 5000 r p m . Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o p r o d u c e a s m a l l v o r t e x . C o o l t o 40C and add t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t . C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and p a c k a g e a t 35C. F o r m u l a f r o m Amerchol C o r p . Hand Cream Innredient : W t * %* A : D i m e t h i c o n e , 1000 c s . (SF-96) 2.50 Isopropyl Myri s t a t e 2.00 Stearic Acid 7.00 Lanolin 0.50 Emu1 s i f y i n g Wax NF ( P o l awax) 4.00 S o r b i t a n O l e a t e ( A r l a c e l 80) 0.50 P o l y s o r b a t e 60 (Tween 6 0 ) 2.50 B: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 7.00 Dei o n i z e d W a t e r 66.00 Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e ( 5 % Aqueous 8.00 Dispersion) C: P r e s e r v a t i v e q.s. Procedure: P r e p a r e t h e 5% Veegum d i s p e r s i o n u s i n g a h o m o g e n i z e r o p e r a t i n g a t 5000 r p m . M i x t h e d i s p e r s i o n f o r 20 m i n u t e s . Weigh t h e i n d i c a t e d amount o f t h e d i s p e r s i o n i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l . M i x w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a t 1 8 0 0 r p m and a d d t h e P a r t B w a t e r . H e a t t o 70C. Add t h e P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l a n d m i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s . Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l , m i x and h e a t t o 70C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B a n d m i x a t 1800 rpm f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 70C. Slow t h e m i x e r t o p r o d uc e a s l i g h t v o r t e x and b e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 40C, add P a r t C , c o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and p a c k a g e a t 35C. F o r m u l a f r o m G e n e r a l E l e c t r i c Co. *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n s

116

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Emollient Eye Cream T h i s emol 1 ie n t cream i s s p e c i f ic a l l y d e s i gned f o r u s e a r o u n d t h e e y e s and c o n t a i n s Crodamol I S N P f o r t h e g e n t l e , y e t v e r y e m o l l i e n t , e f f e c t s t h a t i t c o n f e r s t o s u c h d e l i c a t e a r e a s as t h e eyes, f a c e and n e c k . Super S t e r o l E s t e r and C r o m o i s t HYA a r e m o i s t u r i z e r s t h a t h e l p keep t h e s k i n a r o u n d t h e e y e s smooth and s u p p l e . A c o m b i n a t i o n o f Polawax and e t h y l e n e g l y c o l monostearate i s used t o e m u l s i f y t h e cream. Inaredients: Part A: Dei o n i zed w a t e r Carbomer 934 G1 y c e r i n P a r t B: Crodamol ISNP ( I s o s t e a r y l N e o p e n t a n o a t e ) Polawax ( E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF) Super S t e r o l E s t e r (C10-30 C h o l e s t e r o l / L a n o s t e r o l Esters) Ethylene G l y c o l Monostearate P a r t C: TEA 99% P a r t D: C r o m o i s t HYA ( H y d r o l y z e d P r o t e i n ( a n d ) H y a l u r o n i c A c i d ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (and) Diazo1 i d i n y l Urea (and) M e t h y l P a r a b e n ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben

wt% 84.50 0.25 1.50 3.00 3.00 2.00 4.00 0.25 0.50

1.00

Procedure: Add t h e Carbomer 934 o f P a r t A t o t h e w a t e r w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 65-7OC. When homogeneous, add t h e g l y c e r i n o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 65-7OC. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 60C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add P a r t D w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e . pH=6.0+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y ( R V T S p i n d l e #TB, 10 rpm, 25C)=25,0OOcps+-lO% N . A . T . C . Approved

SOURCE: C r o d a I n c , : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-256

Creams

117

Enriched W/O Cream with Vitamin E Oil S t a g e M a t e r i a1 : Quantity O i l Phase: 1 Peach K e r n e l O i l 1 0 . ooog 2 Almond O i l USP; Sweet 5 . OOOg 3 AEC Macadamia N u t O i l 3 . OOOg 4 AEC H y d r o x y o c t a c o s a n y l H y d r o x y s t e a r a t e 7 . OOOg 5 AEC M e t h o x y Peg 22 D o d e c y l g l y c o l C o p o l y m e r 4 , OOOg 6 AEC PEG 45 D o d e c y l g l y c o l Copolymer 3.OOOg 7 Vitamin E O i l 1.5009 Aqueous Phase: 8 Water; Pure 60.7709 9 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP 5 ,OOOg 10 Magnesium S u l p h a t e 0.0809 11 N i p a g u a r d BPX 0.15Og Cooling Cycle: 12 F r a g r a n c e 0.500g M i x i ng I n s t r u c t i o n s : H e a t t h e O i l Phase i n a s u i t a b l e j a c k e t e d v e s s e l . H e a t t h e Aqueous Phase i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . S l o w l y add t h e h o t w a t e r t o t h e h o t o i l s w i t h h i g h s h e a r m i x i n g and m i x f o r f i v e m i n u t e s . S t a r t c o o l i n g and m i x w i t h a g a t e t y p e m i x e r ; add t h e p e r f u m e a t a b o u t 35C and homogenise. T h i s r i c h w / o e m u l s i o n i s made w i t h n a t u r a l o i l s and u s e s V i t a m i n E O i l as a f r e e r a d i c a l scavenger. P r o j e c t : JW 2 3 8 2 / F o r m u l a : 796*1 Anti-Wrinkle Cream

S t a g e M a t e r i a1 : Quantity O i l Phase: 5 . OOOg 1 AEC H y d r o x y o c t a c o s a n y l H y d r o x y s t e a r a t e 2 AEC M e t h o x y Peg 22 D o d e c y l g l y c o l Copolymer 2 . ooog 3 AEC PEG 4 5 D o d e c y l g l y c o l Copolymer 4 . OOOg 4 Cocoa B u t t e r , R e f i n e d 3 . OOOg 5 GMS NSE 3. OOOg 6 AEC O c t y l P a l m i t a t e 5 . OOOg 7 . OOOg 7 C a p r y l ic / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e Aqueous Phase: 5 . OOOg 8 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP 9 N i p a g u a r d BPX 0.5009 10 W a t e r ; P u r e 65.2509 Cool in g C y c l e : 11 F r a g r a n c e 0.2509 Mixing Instructions: T h i s i s a w/o cream. The o i l phase and aqueous p h a s e a r e h e a t e d s e p a r a t e l y t o 80C and t h e aqueous p h a s e added s l o w l y t o t h e h o t o i l s w i t h h i g h s h e a r m i x i n g . The p r o d u c t i s s t i r r e d s l o w l y u n t i l c o o l and t h e n g i v e n a f i n a l h o m o g e n i s i n g m i x . V i t a m i n E, V i t a m i n A , Sodium H y u r o l o n a t e and c o l l a g e n w o u l d be s u i t a b l e a d d i t i v e s . P r o j e c t : AEC/Formula R e f . : 1081*0

SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

118

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Eye Contour Cream, Type W/O, with MPC-Milk Peptide Complex Innredients: a ) Dehymuls F Vase1 in e , w h i t e S o f t i s a n Gel P a r a f f inum sub1 Phenoni p

.

Wei g h t % 12.00 5.00 10.00 10.00 0.30

b ) Water, d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p Glycerin Magnesium S u l f a t e x 7H20

46.70 0.30 5.00 0.70

c ) Water, d i s t i l l e d Na3 C i t r a t e x 2 H20 MPC-Milk P e p t i d e Complex

9.38 0.12 0.50

Manufacture: a ) M e l t and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C; b ) B r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C and s t i r i n t o a ) ; C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l cream h a s c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C. c ) Add u n d e r s t i r r i n g . P e r f u m e , r o l l . Moisturizing Cream with MPC - Milk Peptide Complex Inq r e d ie n t s :

a ) Promulgen D Paraffinum perliquidum Glucam E - 1 0 C r e m e r o l HMG Phenoni p

Wei p h t % 3.50 10.00 3.00 1.50 0.30

b ) C a r b o p o l 940 Water, d i s t i l l e d M P C - M i 1 k P e p t i de Complex

0.10 70.70 0.50

c ) Water, d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p T r i e t h a n o l ami ne

10.00 0.30 0.10

Manufacture: a ) M e l t and d i s s o l v e a t a p p r o x . 75C. A l l o w t o c o o l t o a p p r o x . 40C b ) D i s p e r s e a t room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h r a p i d s t i r r i n g . c) D i s s o l v e a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and s t i r i n t o b ) . Add m i x t u r e bc) t o a ) w i t h s l o w s t i r r i n g . A d j u s t a b c ) t o a p p r o x . pH 6 . 8 4 . Homogenize.

SOURCE: Chemi s c h e s L a b o r a t o r i urn D r . K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

119

Gentle Night Repair Cream Water in Oil Emulsion F o r m u l a t i n g Des gn and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s p r o d u c t e n c a p s u l a t e s B a r 1 ey B e t a an a c t i v e in g r e d i e n t w h i c h i s a n t i - m c r o b i a l and r e d u c e s t h e e f f e c t s o f s k i n a g i n g . T h i s cream q u i c k l y p e n e t r a t e s t h e s k i n l e a v i n g a s o f t s i 1 k y f e e l .

O i 1 Phase: Emu1 s i f y i n g Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) H e x a n e d i o l B e h e n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) S i l i c o n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) O z o k e r i t e 164/170 ( K o s t e r Keunen) S u n f l o w e r O i 1 (A1 n o r O i 1 ) R i c e B r a n O i l ( K o s t e r Keunen) F o r a h a O i l ( K o s t e r Keunen) Liquapar (Sutton Laboratories) F i t o d e r m - V e g e t a l Squalane (Centerchem) S i l i c o n e 200/100 (Dow C o r n i n g ) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Witco) Isopropyl Palmitate (Inolex) V i t a m i n E (BASF) V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) W a t e r Phase: Water (Dei o n i zed) M e t h y l Paraben ( A l d r i c h ) Sodium B o r a t e (Amend) C a r b o p o l 940 2% ( B . F . G o o d r i c h ) A c t i v e Phase : F i r m i n g L i posome ( C o l 1a b o r a t i v e L a b o r a t o r i e s ) APT ( C e n t e r c h e m ) B e t a G l u c a n ( K o s t e r Keunen)

Weight% 3.10 3.00 3.00 1-00 8.00 4.00 1 .oo 0.50 2.00 2.00 2.10

0.80 0.10 0.10 48.70 0.30 0.50 9.60 4.00 3.00 0.20

Procedure: H e a t t h e components o f t h e o i l p h a s e , m i x and m a i n t a i n a t a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 82C. I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l h e a t t h e components o f t h e w a t e r p h a s e , m i x and m a i n t a i n a t a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 80C. Add t h e o i l p h a s e t o t h e w a t e r u n d e r m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n , and c o o l s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g . Add t h e B e t a G l u c a n a t a t e m p e r a t u r e l e s s t h a n 8OC. C o o l t o 40C a n d add t h e F i r m i n g Liposome and APT. C o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . A d a p t a t i o n of F o r m u l a and Its I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : S u b s t i t u t i o n c a n be made o f t h e v a r i o u s p l a n t o i l s d e p e n d i n g on t h e f o r m u l a t i o n d e s i r e d .

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c , : A G u i d e t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g

120

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Intensive Anti-Wrinkle Soft Cream with AH-Acids (O/W) Ingredients: A) Imwitor 370 (Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) M i g l y o l 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Softisan 601 (Glyceryl Cocoate (and) Hydrogenated Coconut O i l (and) Ceteareth-25) Ewalan ODE-50 (Octy1dodecy1 Lanolate)

Wei ght% 5.00 15,00 12.00 2.00

B) Pronalen F r u i t A c i d AHA-5 (Lemon & Passion F r u i t Concentrate) 7.00 Preservative q.s. Water up to 100.00 C) Perfume 726096

0.30

Preparation: (A) is heated to 75-80 degrees C. (B) is m i x e d together, broght to the same temparature, and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o (A). (C) is added at about 30 degrees C. Formulati on 1 . 1 M W/O Cream with 17% Pigments Ingredi ents: Weight% A) Softisan 378 (Capry1 ic/Capric/Stearic T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 16.00 Softisan 649 (Bis-Digl ycery 1 Polyacryladipate-1) 28.00 Imwitor 78OK (Isostearyl D i g l y c e r y l Succinate) 5.00 Beeswax 6.00 V i t a m i n E (Tocopherol) 0.10 Zinc Oxide 16.00 Talc 1.00 B) A l l a n t o i n d-Panthenol USP Preservative Water

0.20 2.00 q.s 25.70

Preparati on; (A) is m i x e d u n t i l homogeneous and brought up to 75 degrees C. (B) is brought to the same temperature and e m u l s i f i e d into (A). Formu1 at i on 2 . 1 L

SOURCE; Huls America Inc.: Suggested Formulations

Creams

121

Light Moisturizing Cream for Dry Skin U l t r a l i g h t w e i g h t and l o w c o s t m o i s t u r i z i n g cream f o r n o r m a l / d r y s k i n . Leaves t h e s k i n w i t h a s o f t s a t i n y f e e l f r o m t h e L i p o n a t e NPGC-2. L i po/DNS C o m p l e t e c h MBAC-DS h e l p s c o n t r o l t h e dryness o f t h e s k i n . Seguence 1 1 1

We i s hC/O 66.35 0.25 0.05

-Raw

M a ~t e~ r i a_ l :_ . _ Dei o n i zed Water Methylparaben T r i s o d i urn EDTA

2

C a r b o p o l 2984 ( 2 % s o l ' n )

17.50

3 3 3 3 3

L i p o n a t e NPGC-2 L i pomul s e 165 Lipocol C Propylparaben B u t y l paraben

4 4

Dei o n i z e d Water Triethanolamine,

5 5

D e i o n i z e d Water U n i c i d e U-13

1 .oo 0.25

6 6

Dei o n i z e d Water DNS C o m p l e t e c h MBAC-OS

5.50 1.50

4.00 1.50 0.60 0.10 0.05

1 .oo 0.35

99%

Procedure: 1 . Heat Sequence #1 t o 75C. M i x w i t h o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medium speed u n t i l a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e c o m p l e t e l y i n t o s o l u t i o n . 2 . Heat Sequence # 2 t o 75C and add t o Sequence #1 w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n ( h o l d i n g t e m p e r a t u r e a t 75C). 3 . M i x Sequence #3 t o g e t h e r and h e a t t o 75C, t h e n add t o b a t c h w i t h medium/high a g i t a t i o n . 4 . P r e m i x Sequence #4 i n g r e d i e n t s and add t o b a t c h a t 7 - 7 5 c . S w i t c h t o m o d e r a t e sweep and c o o l s l o w l y t o 35C. 5 . A t 35C add p r e m i x e d Sequence #5 i n g r e d i e n t s t o b a t c h and c o o l t o 25C. 6 . P r e m i x Sequence #6 t o g e t h e r u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y i n t o s o u t i o n and t h e n add t o b a t c h on sweep m i x e r . SOURCE: L i p 0 C h e m i c a l s I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n

No. 868

122

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Light Skin-Feel Cleansing Cream

W/O F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s a d a p t a t i o n o f a t y p i c a l c o l d c r e a m h a s been u p d a t e d w i t h new i n g r e d i e n t s t o r e d u c e o i l i n e s s w h i l e deep c l e a n s i n g o f t h e s k i n i s s t i l l p o s s i b l e , l e a v i n g t h e s k i n w i t h a l u x u r i o u s smooth and s i l k y a f t e r f e e l .

Wt%

O i 1 Phase: H e x a n e d i o l B e h e n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) S i l i c o n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) C e r e s i n e 130/135 ( K o s t e r Keunen) Light Mineral O i l (Witco) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) C e t y l s t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( K o s t e r Keunen) Dow 200/100 Dow 245 Emu1 s i f y i n g Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Liquapar O i 1 (Sutton)

5.00 3.00 7.00 17.25 2.00 1.oo 6.00 11.25 2.00 0.30

W a t e r Phase: Water ( D e i o n i z e d ) C a r b o p o l 9 4 0 2% S o l u t i o n (BF G o o d r i c h ) Sodium B o r a t e ( B o r a x )

33.95 10.00 1.25

Procedure: Add C a r b o p o l s o l u t i o n t o t h e w a t e r p h a s e m i x and h e a t t o 75C, add b o r a x u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . M i x and m e l t o i l p h a s e t o 7 5 C . Add o i l p h a s e t o t h e w a t e r phase w h i l e m i x i n g . Cool and p o u r i n t o contai ners. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : S m a l l changes i n t h i s f o r m u l a a r e p o s s i b l e , s u c h as t h e a d d i t i o n o f s m a l l amounts o f p l a n t o i l s f o r l a b e l c l a i m s .

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen,

I n c , : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g Hand Care Cream

Wt% P a r t A : M u l s i f a n CB 6.0 Dow C o r n i n g 593 F l u i d 2.0 D o w C o r n i n g 200-1000 2.0 Avocado o i l 3.0 Paraffin o i l 2.0 P a r t B: Water 84.0 C a r b o p o l ETD 2001 0.15 0.07 P a r t C: C a u s t i c soda ( 4 5 % ) a p p r o x . P a r t D : Perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e , a n t i o x i d a n t 0.3 M i x p a r t A , B and D each s e p a r a t e l y . Add p a r t B, C a n d D s u c c e s s i v e l y t o p a r t A w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . A d j u s t pH t o a p p r o x . pH 6 . 5 u s i n g c a u s t i c soda ( 1 5 % ) o r c i t r i c acid. SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n B27/19

Creams

123

Moisturizer O/W Cream F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s p r o d u c t u t i l i z e s t h e m i n o r components o f n a t u r a l p r o d u c t s t o d e l i v e r m i l d a n t i - m i c r o b i a l a c t i v i t y , which a l l o w s t h e formu l a t o r t o reduce t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f s y n t h e t i c p r e s e r v a t i v e s . The l i g h t y e l l o w c o l o r e d cream q u i c k l y p e n e t r a t e s t h e s k i n , l e a v i n g a n o n - g r e a s y f e e l and d i m i n i s h e s t h e s i g n s o f a g i n g b y l a y i n g down a f l e x i b l e b a r r i e r .

O i l Phase: Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) NF Y e l l o w Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Almond O i l ( A r i s t a ) Mineral O i l (Witco) G l y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e (Henkel ) C e t y l S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (P&G) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( U n i chema) Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i 11 e d ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (Dow) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 ( S p e c i a1 t y I n d u s t r i a1 P r o d , ) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )

4.5 2.5 1.0

3.0 3.5 6.0 6.0 2.5

67.8 1.5 1.o 0.2 0.5

Procedure: Add a m i x e d and u n i f o r m w a t e r p h a s e t o a m i x e d and u n i f o r m o i l p h a s e a t 75C u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g t i l l c o o l . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : Actives are easi l y incorporated i n t o a product without a l t e r i n g t h e a e s t h e t i c s . Changing t h e t y p e s o f o i l s s h o u l d only a l t e r the viscosity, i f maintaining similar concentrations o f o i l s . V i s c o s i t y changes a r e a c h i e v e d by r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f c e t y l s t e a r y l a l c o h o l and g l y c e r o l m o n o s t e a r a t e , b y a p p r o x i m a t e l y 30-40%, however t h i s may c a u s e i n s t a b i 1 it y .

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen,

I n c . : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g

124

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisturizing Cream w/Tritisol

YO

_____ Formula: A:

by Weight

10.00 3.00 5.00

P o l awax P n c r o q u a t B e h e n y l TMS Carnation Mineral O i 1 ( W i t c o )

B: 80.00 1 .oo 1 .oo

Dei o n i z e d Water T r i t i s o l ( S o l u b l e Wheat P r o t e i n ) Germaben I 1

Procedure: Combine A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 70C. H e a t E3 t o 70C. Add B t o A w i t h good m i x i n g . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 45C. Add C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e .

Makeup Remover Cleansing Creme _-___ Formul a : A:

%

Water S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l PG D i moni um C h l o r i d e P h o s p h a t e Cocami d o p r o p y l PG D i moni um C h l o r i d e P h o s p h a t e B: C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) Cetyl Alcohol Myri s t y l Alcohol Dimethicone Propylene Glycol Stearate

bLWeifit 82.5 3.0 1.5

4.5 '3 . 0 3.5

0.1 1.9

Procedure: Heat p a r t s A and B t o 6 0 C . Add 13 t o A w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Remove h e a t . When p r o d u c t b e g i n s t o t h i c k e n , i n c r e a s e speed of m i x e r t o e n s u r e a d e q u a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e , c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e a s r e q u i r e d . S t i r and c o o l t o 34C and f i l l . Moisturizing Hand & Body Cream

Formula: Dei o n i z e d W a t e r Carbomer 9 3 4 Glycerine Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate Whi t e F o n o l i ne P e t r o l a t u m (Wi t c o ) C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) Myri s t y l Propionate G l y c e r y l Monostearate Stearic Acid T r i e t h a n o l ami n e 99% G l y d a n t P1 u s ( L o n z a )

SOURCE: W i tco C o r p , : Suggested Formul at 1 ons

% by Weight 82.00 0.50

5.00

1.50 2.00 2.00 2.00

1.50 2.50 1 g.s.

.oo

Creams

125

Moisturizing Daycream S e r i c i n i n t h i s p l e a s a n t daycream p r o t e c t s t h e s k i n b y i t s f i l m f o r m i n g and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s . Due t o t h i s h i g h m o l e c u l a r p r o t e i n , t h e e m u l s i o n i s a l s o i d e a l as a make-up base.

___ Item: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

Innredi e n t x A) G l u c a t e SS G l u c a m a t e SSE 20 Stearic Acid Promulgen D Modul an Paraffin O i l Eutanol G

8 9 10 11

B ) Water demi n e r a l i z e d

12

C) T r i e t h a n o l a m ne

13 14

D)

Phenoni p Glucam E 20 C a r b o p o l 1342

Sericin F r a g r a n c e / C h a r a 0/238927

%wVy

1.20 1.80 1.50 1.oo 1 .oo 5.00 1.oo 77.30 0.50 4.00 0 40 I

PH 6

5.00 0.30

Procedure: H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r phase B ) t o 7 5 C . Under s t i r r i n g add p h a s e B ) t o p h a s e A ) , w i t h i t e m 12 a d j u s t t h e pH t o 6 . 0 , homogenize and c o o l t o 3 0 C . Then add i t e m s 1 3 and 1 4 , one a f t e r a n o t h e r .

SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 0 2 0 , A / 1 0 . 9 3

126

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisturizing Day Cream (Sericin) S e r i c i n i n t h i s p l e a s a n t day cream p r o t e c t s t h e s k i n b y i t s f i l m f o r m i n g and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s . Due t o t h i s h i g h m o l e c u l a r w e i g h t p r o t e i n , t h e e m u l s i o n i s a l s o i d e a l as a make-uD b a s e . Wei q h t % Item Ingredients: 1.20 1 A) G l u c a t e SS 1.80 2 G l u c a m a t e SSE 20 1 .50 S t e a r i c Acid 3 1-00 4 Promulgen D 1 .oo 5 Modul an 5.00 Paraffin Oi 1 6 1 .oo Eutanol G 7 77.30 8 B) Dei o n i zed Water 0.50 Phenoni p 9 4.00 Glucam E 20 10 0.40 11 C a r b o p o l 1342 12 C) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , q . s . pH 6 . 0 5.00 13 D) S e r i c i n F r a g r a n c e - C h i a r a 0/238927 14 0.30 Procedure: H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A) t o 70C. H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r p h a s e B) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add p h a s e 0 ) t o p h a s e A ) , w i t h i t e m 12 a d j u s t t h e pH t o 6 . 0 , homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then add i t e m s 13 and 14 one a f t e r t h e o t h e r . SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 0 2 0 . A / 1 0 . 9 3 Incroquat Behenyl TMS Cream T h i s b a s i c f o r m u l a t i o n shows how I n c r o q u a t B e h e n y l TMS c a n f o r m a s t a b l e and e l e g a n t , y e t s i m p l e , e m u l s i o n . The s o f t / powdery f e e l i t c o n f e r s on t h e s k i n i s due t o t h e c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s o f t h e behenyl q u a t . Ingredients: Weight% Part A: I n c r o q u a t B e h e n y l TMS ( B e h e n t r i m o n i u m M e t h o s u l f a t e ( a n d ) Cetearyl Alcohol ) 3.00 Crodamol I S N P ( I s o s t e a r y l N e o p e n t a n o a t e ) 5.00 D i m e t h i c o n e 200 (2OOcps) 1 .oo Volpo S-2 ( S t e a r e t h - 2 ) 0.10 0.50 V o l p o S-10 ( S t e a r e t h - 1 0 ) Petrolatum 2.00 P a r t B: Dei o n i z e d W a t e r 79.40 Part C: Dei o n i zed Water 5.00 H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA (Wheat Amino A c i d s ) 1 .oo P a r t D: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben 1 .oo Crodasome CM-Glucan (Sodium C a r b o x y m e t h y l B - G l u c a n ) 1 .oo I n c r o m e c t a n t LAMEA ( A c e t a m i d e MEA ( a n d ) L a c t a m i d e MEA) 1.00 pH=5.0+-0.5 Viscosity=16,000cps+-lO% (RVT S p i n d l e #TC, 10 rpm, 25C) SOURCE: Croda I n c , : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-269

Creams

127

Moisturizing Skin Cream An e l e g a n t and r i c h m o i s t u r i z i n g c r e a m b a s e d on t h e NMF ( N a t u r a l M o i s t u r i z i n g F a c t o r ) c o n c e p t of Prodew 100. Ingredient : W t .%* A : D e i o n i z e d Water 59.60 Veegum HV, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e 1 .oo 2.40 T r i e t h a n o l ami n e , 99% 0.20 Rhodi g e l , X a n t h a n Gum B: S q u a l a n e ( F i t o d e r m ) 6.00 Cetyl Palmitate 4.00 D i o c t y l Maleate 8.00 Propylene Glycol I s o s t e a r a t e 4.00 Pentaerythrityl Tetrapelargonate 4.00 D i m e t h i c o n e ( 100 c s . ) 0.80 1-00 H y d r o g e n a t e d Soy G l y c e r i d e 1.00 Stearyl Alcohol 5.00 Stearic Acid C : S o r b i t o l ( a n d ) Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) P r o l i n e ( a n d ) Sodium PCA ( a n d ) H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n (Prodew 1 0 0 ) 3.00 q.s. Preservative Procedure: Weigh t h e P a r t A w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and m i x w i t h a h o m o g e n i z e r a t 5000 rpm. Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum HV a n d R h o d i g e l , add them s l o w l y t o t h e w a t e r and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 20 m i n u t e s . B e g i n h e a t i n g t o 6%. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t 5000 rpm. Weigh t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l . M i x and h e a t t o 70C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and m i x f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s a t 5000 r p m . Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o p r o d u c e a s m a l l v o r t e x . C o o l w h i l e m i x i n g t o 35C and add t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g e a c h f o r 5 m i n u t e s . C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and p a c k a g e a t a t 25-3OC. Moisturizing Cream W t .%* Inaredients: 2.00 A: S t e a r i c Acid 2.00 Cetyl Alcohol 2.00 Isopropyl Myri s t a t e L a n o l i n O i l ( L a n t r o l 1673) 10.00 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 165) 3 . 0 0 B : Veegum , Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e 1 .50 D e i o n i z e d Water 74.50 C: G l y c e r i n 4.00 1 .oo T r i e t h a n o l ami ne , 99% D : P r e s e r v a t iv e 9.S. Procedure: Weigh t h e P a r t B w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l . M i x w i t h an h o m o g e n i z e r o p e r a t i n g a t 5000 r p m and b e g i n h e a t i n g t o 70C. S l o w l y add t h e Veegum and m i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s . Add t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g e a c h f o r 3 m i n u t e s a t 5000 rpm. Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l . M i x and h e a t t o 70C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B a t 70C and m i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 5000 rpm. Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r , a d j u s t t h e speed t o p r o d u c e a s m a l l v o r t e x and b e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 40C, a d d P a r t D and p a c k a g e a t 35C. *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s SOURCE:R.T.Vanderbilt Co., I n c . : F o r m u l a s : C e n t e r c h e m / I C I A m e r i c a

128

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Multi Purpose Cream T h i s w h i t e , creamy e m u l s i o n ha5 a good c o s m e t i c t e x t u r e and i s s u i t a b l e f o r d i f f e r e n t a p p l i c a t i o n s . P h y t a l u r o n a t e adds a p l e a s a n t s l i p t o t h e f o r m u l a , whereas F i t o b r o s i d e ( p e n e t r a t i o n e n h a n c e r ) and R e v i t a l i n - B T e x e r t t h e i r a c t i o n s i n d e e p e r l a y e r s o f the skin. Item: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7

InQredients:

%w/w

A ) G l u c a t e SS

1.20 1.80 1.50 1.oo 2.00 4.00 2 .QO

G l u c a m a t e SSE 20 Stearic acid Promulgen D Modul an Mineral o i l Eutanol G

71 - 6 0 0.20 0.30 4.00 3.00 3.00 0.50

8 9 10 11 12 13 14

8 ) Water demi n e r a l iz e d

15

C) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne

0.60

16

D)

Fitobroside

3.00

17

E ) F r a g r a n c e / B l a c k Dragon I 1 0/232511

I m i d a z o l id i n y l u r e a Phenoni p Glucam E 20 Phytaluronate R e v i t a l in-BT C a r b o p o l 1342

0.30

Procedure: H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y p h a s e A ) t o 70C. H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r p h a s e 8 ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add p h a s e 8 ) t o p h a s e A ) , w i t h p h a s e C ) a d j u s t t h e pH t o 6 . 0 , homogenize and c o o l t o 3 0 C . Than a d d p h a s e s D) and E) one a f t e r a n o t h e r and s t i r c o l d .

SOURCE:

P e n t a p h a r m L t d . : A p p l i c a t i o n N o . A 028.6/07.93

Creams

129

Neck Firming Cream F o r m u l a t in g D e s i gn and A d v a n t a g e s : The n e c k i s t h e most n e g l e c t e d p a r t o f t h e body and shows t h e f i r s t v i s i b l e signs o f aging. This product d e l i v e r s a c t i v e s t o t h a t a r e a i n a c o s t e f f e c t i v e p r o d u c t w h i c h h a s e m o l l i e n t and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s t h a t f i r m s t i n y l i n e s . Continued use h e l p s promote t h e l o o k o f f i r m , r e s i l i e n t , s o f t , y o u t h f u l - l o o k i n g skin. Phase A : D e o d o r i z e d O r a n g e Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Emu1 s i f y i n g Wax NF ( K o s t e r Keunen) Shea B u t t e r (Sederma) S t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Mineral O i l (Witco) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) G l y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( K o s t e r Keunen) Squalane ( B a r n e t ) P h y t o g l y c o l ip i d ( B a r n e t ) C e t y l S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (P&G) Phase B: W a t e r ( D i s t i 1l e d ) C a r b o p o l 940 ( B . F . G o o d r i c h ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) G1 y c e r i n ( U n i chema) A l o e Vera Gel ( A c t i v e O r g a n i c s ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (Dow) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )

3.0 5.0 3.0 3.0 5.0 5.0 1.5 3.0 2.0 0.5 57.9 0.2 0.4 2.0 0.5 2.0 1.o

Phase C : E l a s t o s o l Animal C o l l a g e n & E l a s t i n (Croda)

5.0

Procedure: Weigh o u t m a t e r i a l s f o r Phase A , h e a t t o 80C and m i x t i l l homogeneous. H e a t Phase B t o 75C w h i l e m i x i n g . Add Phase A t o Phase B u n d e r r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C and add Phase C . C o n t i n e m i x i n g t i l l 3 5 t o 40C. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : Sunscreens a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o a f o r m u l a o f t h i s t y p e . By r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f w a t e r a n d / o r t h e o i l s , E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) c a n b e s u b s t i t u t e d a t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 5% t o p r o d u c e an SPF o f 6 - 8 .

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . :

A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g

130

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Night Cream Phase : A A

A A A B B B B B B B B C D

Ingredient: D e i o n i z e d Water Sodi um B o r a t e G1 y c e r i n X a n t h a n Gum T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA C e t e a r y l A1 coho1 S o r b i t a n S e s q u i 01 e a t e G l y c e r y l Monostearate O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i l Vitamin E Acetate Beeswax Mineral O i l Octyl Palmitate Germaben I 1 Fragrance

M a n u f a c t u r i n g Procedure:. Heat Phase A t o 75C. H e a t Phase 6 t o 75C. Add Phase B t o Phase A . Add r e m a i n i ng p h a s e s . Homogeni z e .

Wt% 43.45 0.70 2.00 0.30 0.10 2.00 2.00 5.00 8.00 0.20 12.00 15.00 8.00 1 .oo 0.25

Cool t o 4 0 C .

T h i s f o r m u l a i s meant t o b e l e f t on t h e s k i n and t o have a h e a v i e r f i l m so t h a t i t l a s t s a l l n i g h t . T h i s i s a w a t e r i n o i l e m u l s i o n and t h e p r i n c i p a l e m u l s i f i e r s a r e S o r b i t a n S e s q u i o l e a t e and a c o m b i n a t i o n o f sodium b o r a t e and beeswax. The c o m b i n a t i o n o f o i l s g i v e s p r o p e r w e i g h t and f e e l . C o u l d b e a l l Macadamia N u t O i l , b u t i t m i g h t b e e x p e n s i v e . T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n can a l s o b e u s e d a s a makeup remover f o r l i p s t i c k and eye makeup. SOURCE: O i l s o f A l o h a : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

Cold Cream Formula: Polysynlane (Polyesther) C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a i O i 1 (Wi t c o ) P a r a f f i n Wax I.P.M. Beeswax L a n o l in Propylene Glycol P o t a s s i um H y d r o x i d e A r l a c e l 40 P . O . E . S o r b i t o l Beeswax Stearic Acid Perfume, P r e s e r v a t i v e s Water, t o

SOURCE:

Witco Corp.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

% by Weight 32 0 4.0 4.0 #

8.0 3.0 8.0 4.0 0.3 2.5 1.o 1.5 q.s 100.0

Creams

131

Night Cream

5 8.00

Mineral O i l R itachol R i t a c h o l 1000 P a t i o n i c SSL R i t a EGMS Pationic ISL R i tawax Propylparaben D i s t i l l e d Water P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Methylparaben

4.00 8.00 6.00 5.00 2.00 1 .oo 0.10 60.70 5.00 0.20

pH: 5 . 2 V i s c o s i t y : 135,000 c p s S t a b i 1 it i e s : 4F: No change a f t e r 3 c y c l e s 40F: V . s l . s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 1 week 11OF: V . s l . s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 24 h r s . F o r m u l a t i o n 111-204 Night Cream Q 8.00 4.00 8.00 6.00 5.00 2.00 1 .oo 0.10 58.70 5.00 0.20 2.00

Mineral O i l R itachol R i t a c h o l 1000 P a t i o n i c SSL R i t a EGMS Pationic ISL R i tawax Propylparaben D i s t i l l e d Water P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Methylparaben Ritavena 5 pH: 5 . 0 V i s c o s i t y : 175,000 c p s S t a b i 1i t i e s : 4F: No c h a n g e a f t e r 3 c y c l e s 40F: No change a f t e r 6 weeks 11OF: S1. s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 24 h r s . F o r m u l a t i o n 111-205

SOURCE: R . 1 , T . A .

C o r p , : Ritavena 5: Suggested Formulations

132

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Night Repair Cream I n q r e d ie_n_t,s_

1 . N a t u r a l Beeswax 2 , Ozokerite 3 . L i g h t Mineral O i l 4. Rita IPM (Isopropyl Myristate) 5 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 6 . R i t o x 59 (PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) 7 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l and P o l y s o r b a t e - 6 0 ) 8 . Ritacet-20 (Ceteareth-20) 9. Isostearic Acid 10.Tocopherol 11. Reti nyl Palmitate 1 2 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 1 3 , D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea 14.Sodium B o r a t e 1 5 . A c r i t a m e r 940 ( C a r b o m e r ) 1 6 . R a f f e r m i n e ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy F l o u r ) 1 7 . T e n s i n e (Wheat P r o t e i n )

7.30 4.30 19.50 2.30 2.10 1.50 1.20 1 .oo 0.80 0.10 0.10 53.25 1* o o 0.40 0.15 2.00 3.00

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 15 i n i t e m 12 w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 70C. Combine i t e m s 1-11 and h e a t t o 7 0 C . Add t o w a t e r p h a s e . Add i t e m s 13 and 14 and m i x w h i l e c o o l i n g . A t 40C add i t e m s 1 6 and 1 7 . R e f . N o . 122-17C

Cleansing Cream A g l o s s y w a t e r - i n - o i 1 c l e a n s i n g cream c o n t a i n i n g C1 a r i s k i n w i t h t h e p r o p e r t i e s o f a t t e n u a t i n g s k i n bro+dn s p o t s .

I n g r ed i en t s : 1 . Ritahydrox (Hydroxylated Lanolin) 2 R i t a s o l (Isopropyl Lanolate) 3 . N a t u r a l BeeSwaX 4. Mineral O i l (Drakeol-9) 5 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 6. Ozokerite 7 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 8 . B i o c a r e P o l y m e r HA-24 9 . B o r a x ( 9 9 . 5%) 1 0 . C l a r i s k i n (Yeast E x t r a c t ) 11.Germaben I I E 12.Perfume I

% w J y 3.00 2.00 10.00 44.00 2.00 5.00 23.60 3.80 0.60 5.00 1-00 q.s.

Compoundi n g P r o c e d u r e : Add i t e m 8 t o i t e m 7 a t 25C. M i x u n t i l t h o r o u g h l y d i s p e r s e d . H e a t t o 45-50C i f n e c e s s a r y . When d i s p e r s e d , add i t e m 9 and h e a t t o 80C. M i x i t e m s 1 - 6 and h e a t t o 8 0 C . Add w a t e r phase t o o i l p h a s e w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add i t e m 11 a t 75C. C o n t i n u e t o m i x u n t i l m i x t u r e r e a c h e s 35C, t h e n add i t e m s 1 0 and 1 1 . R e f . No. 122-798 SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

133

Night Repair Cream Formula: O c t v l d i m e t h v l Paba F i n s o l ve Carnation Mineral O i l (Witco) White Protopet 1s (Witco) S t e a r i c Acid A c e t y l a t e d - L a n o l in Amerchol -L-101 G e n e r o l -1 22 Generol-122E-10 Lexemul Benzyle, Alcohol Ceraphyl-65 Glycerin S e l a s t in E L - 1 0 ( S e c o l ) Water C o l l a g e n S e c o l a n BA 1-1% S o l u t i o n ( S e c o l ) N a - H y a l u r o n a t e S e l u r o n 1% S o l u t i o n ( S e c o l ) G e r m a l l 115 Fragrance

% by Weiqht 3 2 2 3 2 3 3 2 3 8 3 2 5 10 q.s. 5 3 0.25 As D e s i r e d

Facial Cleansing Cream % by Weight

Formula: A:

G e l w h i t e GP Water S o r b i t o 1 (70%) B: P o l e s t a r 400A (ECC A m e r i c a ) C: Carnation Mineral O i 1 ( W i tco) S o l u l a n 16 Tween 80 A r l a c e l 186 Whi t e P r o t o p e t 1S S y n t h e t i c Beeswax Preservatives

2.0 31 . O 5.0 20.0 17.0 3.0 1.o 3.0 10.0 5.0 q.s.

Procedure: S l o w l y add G e l w h i t e t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e m i x i n g a t maximum s h e a r . Add g l y c e r i n e and S o r b i t o l a t m o d e r a t e speed u n t i l s m o o t h . Add B t o A w i t h s l o w m i x i n g . Combine C and h e a t t o 65C. Heat A/B t o 70C and s l o w l y add t o C . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l t e m p . c o o l s t o 30C. Add d e s i r e d p r e s e r v a t i v e s and m i x u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m .

SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

134

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Night Time Moisturizing Cream R i c h e m u l s i o n c o n t a i n i n g R i t a s i l 190 as a l u b r i c a n t . Ingredients: 1 . M i n e r a l O i l ( B r i s t o l 9 NF) 2. R i t a IPP ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 3. Stearic Acid 4 . R i t o x 52 (PEG-40 S t e a r a t e ) 5 . R i t a s i l 190 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ) 6. R i t a l a n ( L a n o l i n O i l ) 7 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 8 . D i s t i 11e d / D e i o n i z e d W a t e r 9 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e @ 99Y0 1 0 . D e r m a c r y l - 7 9 (Acrylates/Octylpropenamide 1 1 . A c r i t a m e r 9 3 4 (Carbomer 9 3 4 ) 1 2 . Germaben 11 E 13. Fragrance

o/ow/w

Copolymer)

10.00 2.00 4.00 1.oo 1 .oo 0.50 3,OO 74.75 1.30 1.oo 0.25 1.oo 0.20

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : H e a t w a t e r and T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% t o 80C. S l o w l y s i f t i t e m 10 and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . S i f t i t e m 11 s l o w l y . Combine i t e m s 1-7 i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , h e a t t o 80C and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . A d d i t e m s 1 - 7 t o i t e m s 8-10 and m i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s a t 80C. C o o l t o 40C, t h e n add i t e m s 12 and 1 3 . R e f . No. 121-96 Cleansing Cream A c l e a n s i n g cream w i t h R a f f e r m i n e t o p r o m o t e s k i n f i r m n e s s and r e d u c e s k i n e l a s t i c i t y w i t h e m o l l i e n c e f r o m R i t a c h o l and humectancy f r o m g l y c e r i n e . Ingredients: 1 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 2 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 3. Mineral O i l ( L i g h t ) 4 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 5 , D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i z e d W a t e r 6. Glycerine 7 , R a f f e r m i n e ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy F l o u r ) 8. Glydant 9 . Fragrance

o/,w/w 3.00 4.00 20 I O 0 3.00 62.00 5.00 2.00 1.oo q.s.

Compoundi n g P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 - 4 and h e a t t o 70C. Combine i t e m s 5 and 6 and h e a t t o 70C w i t h m i x i n g . Add o i l t o w a t e r w i t h m i x i n g . Cool t o 40C and add i t e m s 7 - 9 . Ref. No. 120-205A

SOURCE: R , I . T . A ,

Corp.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creanis

135

Nighttime Moisturizing Cream A g l o s s y w h i t e n i g h t cream c o n t a i n i n g a c o l l a g e n f i b e r r e s t r u c t u r i n g b o o s t e r : R a f f e r m i n e . T h i s e l e g a n t cream a1 so c o n t a i n s R i t a I P P and R i t a l a n as e m o l l i e n t s . Innredients: 1. Mineral O i 1 2 . R i t a IPP ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 3. Stearic Acid 4 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 5 . R i t o x 52 (PEG-40 S t e a r a t e ) 6 . R i t a s i l 190 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ) 7. R i t a l a n ( L a n o l i n O i l ) 8 . D i s t i1 1e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 9 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 1 0 . A c r y l a t e s / t - O c t y l propenami d e Copolymer 1 1 . A c r i t a m e r 934 ( C a r b o m e r ) 12.Germaben I I E 13. Fragrance 1 4 . R a f f e r m i n e ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy F l o u r ) Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 8 and 9 and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add 80C. C o o l t o 40C and add R e f . No. 122-3A

%w/w 10.00 2.00 4.00 3.00 1 .oo 1 .oo 0.50 71 - 9 5 1.30 1.oo 0.25 1.oo q.s 3.00

and h e a t t o 80C. S l o w l y add i t e m 1 0 d i s s o l v e d . Then s l o w l y add A c r i t a m e r Combine i t e m s 1 - 7 and h e a t t o 80C t o w a t e r and m i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s a t i t e m s 12-14.

Under Make-up Cream for Normal Skin An e l e g a n t , n o n - g r e a s y , p r o t e c t i v e day c r e a m f o r u n d e r make-up u s e , T e n s i n e smoothes t h e s k i n and h e l p s make-up s t a y on. Ingredients: 1 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 2. Ceteareth-15 3. R i t a I P P ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 4 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 5 . D i s t i 11e d / D e i o n i zed Water 6. Propylene G l y c o l 7. Methylparaben 8. Propylparaben 9 . Borage O i l 10. Fragrance 11 T e n s i ne (Wheat P r o t e i n ) I

%w/w 8.00 3.00 5.00 5.00 63.80 5.00 0.15 0.05 3.00 1.oo 6.00

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : H e a t i t e m s 1 - 4 t o 70C. H e a t i t e m s 5-8 t o 70C. Add o i l t o w a t e r . C o o l t o 40C. Add i t e m s 9 - 1 1 . R e f . No. 122-13 SOURCE: R . I , T . A , C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

136

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Oil-Free Exfoliating Cream Formul a t in g Desi gn and A d v a n t a g e s : The u s e o f n a t u r a l e x f o l i a t i n g a g e n t ( e a s i l y d i s p e r s e d ) i n t h i s cream f o r m u l a g i v e s a m a r v e l o u s , n o n - i r r i t a t i n g , a b r a s i v e q u a l i t y f o r t h e r e m o v a l of s p e n t s u r f a c e c e l l s . T h i s w i l l renew and r e v i t a l i z e worn and damaged s k i n , l e a v i n g a b a r r i e r w h i c h c o n t a i n s n a t u r a l a n t i - o x i d a n t s i n h e r e n t i n t h e beeswax and d e o d o r i z e d o r a n g e wax. Phase A : D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) H y d r o x y P o l y e s t e r ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) D i m e t h i c o n e 200/100 (Dow) G l y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( K o s t e r Keunen) C e t y l S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (P & G ) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema)

Wt% 3.0 2.0 3.0 7.5 1.5 1.o 3.0

Phase B: Water ( D e i o n i z e d ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (Dow) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (Dow) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 ( S p e c i a l t y I n d u s t r i a l P r o d . ) C a r b o p o l 940 ( B F G o o d r i c h ) M e t h y l Paraben ( A l d r i c h )

64.35 2.5 1.o 0.2 0.2 0.75

Phase C : M i c r o g r a n u l a t e d Carnauba,

10.0

20-60 mesh ( K o s t e r Keunen)

Procedure: Add a m i x e d and u n i f o r m Phase A t o a m i x e d and u n i f o r m Phase B a t 75C u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add Phase C and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : V i s c o s i t y o f t h i s p r o d u c t c a n e a s i l y be a l t e r e d b y s u b s t i t u t i n g s t e a r i c a c i d f o r i s o s t e a r i c a c i d , t o accomodate y o u r p r e f e r r e d c o n t a i n e r . F o r s e n s i t i v e s k i n , r e d u c e t h e o r a n g e wax, and r e p l a c e w i t h K e s t e r Wax 62 and C e r e s i n 1 3 0 / 1 3 5 . A low v i s c o s i t y w i l l a l l o w t h i s p r o d u c t t o b e p a c k a g e d i n an open j a r . The f o r m u l a t i n g a d v a n t a g e s r e m a i n u n - a l t e r e d b y t h e changes i n viscosity.

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen,

I n c : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g

Creams

137

O/W-Cream

Recipe: H o s t a c e r i n DGS H o s t a c e r i n DGL Isopropyl palmitate Almond o i 1 Jojoba o i l Wheat germ o i l S u n f 1 ower o i 1 A n t i o x i dan t

A

Wt% 5.00 0.50 8.00 4.00 2.00 5.00 4.00 a.s

0.30

B

C a r b o p o l 980

C

A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . C i t r i c a c i d (10%) C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i o n ( 1 0 % ) Water Preservative

Fragrance Procedure: 1 M e l t A a t c a . 70C, t h e n add 0 . 2 H e a t C t o c a . 70C. 3 S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i l c o o l . 4 A t c a . 35C add D t o 3 . 5 Homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n . Formula A VI/1852 D

0.10 0.25 1.20 69.25 q.s 0.40

O/W-Cream "contains no ethylene oxide" R ec i L e i A H o s t a c e r i n DGMS

Mineral o i l , Eutanol G Almond o i 1 Antioxidant

low v i s c o s i t y

B

C a r b o p o l 980

C

H o s t a p o n KCG C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i on ( 1 0%) Water Preservative

W t% 5.00 10.00 7.00 6.00 CI.S

0.50

0.40 2.00 68.70 a .s

D Fragrance 0.40 Procedure: 1 M e l t A a t c a . 80C, t h e n add B . 2 . H e a t C t o c a . 80C. 3 S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i l c o o l , 4 . A t c a . 35C add D t o 3 . 5 . Homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n . Formula A VI/1751 SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e R e c i p e s f o r t h e C o s m e t i c I n d u s t r y

138

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W-Cream Reci pe : A H o s t a c e r i n DGMS H o s t a p h a t KML Mineral o i l , low v i s c o s i t y Eutanol G Almond o i 1 Isopropyl palmitate A n t i o x i dant B

C a r b o p o l 980

C

C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i o n ( 1 0 % ) A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . C i t r i c a c i d (10%) Water P r e s e r v a t iv e

D

Fragrance

Wt% 4.00 2.00 8.00

6.00 4.00

4.00 q.s. 0.50 2.70 0.10 0.25 68.15 q.s.

0.30

Procedure: 1 M e l t A a t c a . 8OC, t h e n add 0 . 2 H e a t C t o c a . 8OC. 3 S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i l c o o l . 4 A t c a . 35C add D t o 3 . 5 Homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n . Formula A V I / 1 5 5 0 O/W-Cream "Contains no ethylene oxide", manufacturing at room temperature possible Reci pe : A Hostacerin DGI Mineral o i l , low v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate Eutanol G

Wt% 2.00 8.00 4.00 4.00

B

C a r b o p o l 980

0.70

C

H o s t a p o n KCG C a u s t ic soda s o l u t i on ( 10%) Water Preservative

0.80

D

Fragrance

Procedure: 1 . S t i r B i n t o A , t h e n add C and s t i r w e l l . 2. S t i r D i n t o 1. 3 . F i n a l l y homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n . F o r m u l a A V1/1752 SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e R e c i p e s f o r t h e C o s m e t i c I n d u s t r y

2.80 77 30 I

a.s. 0.40

Creams

139

Phytodermin P h y t o d e r m i n c o n t a i n s s o l u b i 1 i zed h i g h m o l e c u l a r wei g h t c o n s t i t u e n t s o f t h e p l a n t m a t r i x f r o m soybeans i n n a t u r a l d i s t r i b u t i o n : h y d r o x y p r o l i n e - r i c h g l y c o p r o t e i n s as e x t e n s i n s , a r a b i n o g a l a c t a n s a s p r o t e o g l y c a n e q u i V a l e n t s and p r o 1 i ner i c h g l y c o p r o t e i n s . The s p e c i f i c , most g e n t l e p r o d u c t i o n p r o c e d u r e a p p l i e d i n t h e c a s e o f P h y t o d e r m i n mai n t a i n s , c o n t r a r y t o c o n v e n t i o n a l soya h y d r o l y s a t e s , t h e n a t i v e c h a r a c t e r o f t h e m a t r i x components c o n t a i n e d . I n i n v i v o t e s t s , P h y t o d e r m i n has p r o v e d t o b e an e f f i c i e n t a l t e r n a t i v e t o t h e c l a s s i c animal d e r i v e d m a t r i x c o m p o s i t i o n . Regenerative Cream, Type W/O, with Phytodermin InsredignLs:. Wei n h t % Dehymu 1 s PGPH 7.00 Lameform T G I 3.00 5.00 Be e s w a x 10.00 Isopropyl myri s t a t e M y r i t o l 318 5.00 5.00 C e t i o l 868 Phenoni p 0.30 Oxynex LM 0.10 49.30 Water, d i s t i 1 1ed Phenoni p 0.30 Karion F l i q u i d 5.00 10.00 Phytodermi n Manufacture : a ) M e l t and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 75C; b ) Heat t o a p p r o x . 7 5 C and s t i r i n t o a ) . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C; c) S t i r in. Perfume, r o l l . SOURCE: Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i urn D r Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

I

K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH:

O/W Basic Cream, Without Paraffin

I n g r e d j e_nts:

We1 g h t %

A) S o f t i s a n 601 ( G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ( a n d ) H y d r o g e n a t e d Coconut O i l ( a n d ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 5 ) 35.00 M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 3.00 Cetyl Alcohol 2.00 B) P r e s e r v a t i v e q.s. Water 60.00 T h i s b a s i c cream c a n be u s e d t o i n c o r p o r a t e n o n i o n i c a c t i v e in g r e d i e n t s . Preparation: ( A ) i s h e a t e d t o c a . 65 d e g r e e s C . ( B ) is h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and t h e n e m u l s i f i e d i n t o (A). The cream is t h e n constantly s t i r r e d u n t i 1 cool . SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c , : F o r m u l a t i o n 1 . 1 N

140

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Protective Cream with Cromoist CM Glucan Due t o t h e i n c o r p o r a t i o n o f C r o m o i s t CM G l u c a n , t h i s cream c a n p r o t e c t s k i n f r o m e n v i r o n m e n t a l i n s u l t and h e l p i t t o f u n c t i o n b e t t e r . C r o m o i s t CM G l u c a n i s a u n i q u e p r o t e c t i v e and t h e r a p e u t i c a g e n t t h a t w o r k s b y s t i m u l a t i n g t h e s k i n ’ s own d e f e n s e mechanisms, r e s u l t i n g i n p r o t e c t i v e e f f e c t s t h a t enhance s k i n f u n c t i o n and i n c r e a a s e t h e s k i n ’ s r e s i s t a n c e t o UVAi n d u c e d o x i d a t i v e s t r e s s . C r o d a f o s CES i s a s u b s t a n t i v e p h o s p h a t e - b a s e d e m u l s i f y i n g s y s t e m t h a t enhances t h e d e l i v e r y o f t h e o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s and i m p r o v e s t h e a p p l i c a t i o n p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e cream. Inaredi ents : Wei q h t % Part A: C r o d a f o s CES ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r y l P h o s p h a t e ) 4.0 Crodamol GTCC ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 5.0 Corona PNL ( L a n o l i n ) 1.o Part B: Dei o n i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (98%)

69.8 0.2

P a r t C: D e i o n i z e d Water H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA (Wheat Amino A c i d s )

5.0 1 .o

P a r t D: Propylene G l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) M e t h y l paraben (and) Propylparaben C r o m o i s t CM-Glucan ( S o d i u m C a r b o x y m e t h y l B - G l u c a n ) I n c r o m e c t a n t LAMEA ( A c e t a m i d e MEA ( a n d ) L a c t a m i d e MEA)

1.o 1.o 5.0

Part E: Dei o n i zed Water DL Panthenol

5.0 2.0

pH=4.5+-0.5 Viscosity=20,000

c p s + - 1 0 % (RVT S p i n d l e #TC @ 10 rpm @ 25C)

Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-8OC. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-8OC. Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A t o B w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C , D and E w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i 11 t e m p e r a t u r e .

SOURCE: C r o d a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-265

Creams

141

Rain Forest Cream T h i s f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s a r e l a t i v e l y v i s c o u s , s h i n y w h i t e cream and f e a t u r e s C r o n a t u r a l Cohune O i l , an e m o l l i e n t o i l h a r v e s t e d o u t o f t h e r a i n f o r e s t , and C r o d a f o s CES. The use o f C r o d a f o s CES enhances t h e f o r m u l a t i o n ' s a p p l i c a t i o n p r o p e r t i e s s i g n i f i c a n t l y , a l l o w i n g t h e cream t o r u b i n e f f o r t l e s s l y w i t h o u t any i n d i c a t i o n o f d r a g . C r o d a f o s CES c o n f e r s a p l e a s i n g e m o l l i e n c e , providing the skin with a conditioned afterfeel. Ingredients: Wt% Part A: C r o n a t u r a l Cohune O i l (Cohune O i l ) 10.00 C r o d a f o s CES ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r y l P h o s p h a t e ) 6.50 P a r t B: D e i o n i z e d Water Carbomer 2984 Glycerin Na2EDTA

79.00 0.20 2.00 0.05

P a r t C: TEA 99%

1.25

P a r t D: Propylene G l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) Methyl Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben

1.oo

V i s c o s i t y = 2 2 , 0 0 0 + - 1 0 % ( R V T S p i n d l e 8, pH=7.0+-0.5

1Orpm @ 25C)

Procedure: D i s s o l v e t h e Na2EDTA o f P a r t B i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . D i s p e r s e Carbomer 2984 i n t o w a t e r o f P a r t B. When f u l l y h y d r a t e d , add g l y c e r i n w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 70-75C. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 70-75C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g . Add C t o A / B w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add P a r t D w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e . N . A . T . C . Approved

SOURCE: C r o d a I n c . :

F o r m u l a t i o n SC-254

142

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Rejuvenating AHA Cream (W/O Emulsion) Inqredients : O i l Phase: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i 1 WE-09) Hydrogenated Castor O i l M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 ine Wax C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (Tegosoft M) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9 8 0 1 ) Cy cl omethi cone

Wei q h t %

Water Phase: Water NaCl P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Sodi um C i t r a t e M a l i c Acid Granular Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) Sodium PCA ( a n d ) G l y c i n e ( a n d ) F r u c t o s e (and) Urea (and) Niacinamide (and) I n o s i t o l ( a n d ) Sodium B e n z o a t e ( a n d ) L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l ) P r e s e r v a t i v e s , Color, Fragrance

5.00 0.50 0.50 3.00 5.00 4.00 1.oo 1 .oo 4.00 70.75 0.80 2.00 0.60 1 .60 0.25 Q.S.

Procedure: 1 . Add t h e comoonents o f t h e o i l ohase t o o e t h e r . H e a t t o 80-85C t o m e l t a n d ' d i s p e r s e t h e waxes'. When d i s p e r s e d , c o o l and m a i n t a i n a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 45-50C. 2 . M i x w a t e r , p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and s o d i u m c h l o r i d e t o g e t h e r d i s s o l v i n g s o d i u m c h l o r i d e . Add and m i x t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f t h e w a t e r phase. 3 . A d j u s t t h e pH o f t h e w a t e r p h a s e t o 4 . 0 - 4 . 5 i f n e c e s s a r y . 4. W i t h s l o w l i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g , s l o w l y s t r e a m t h e w a t e r phase i n t o t h e o i 1 phase. 5 . W i t h sweep a g i t a t i o n , cool t o 35C. 6 . Add c o l o r , f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e s . 7 . Homogenize w i t h a r o t o - s t a t o r h o m o g e n i z e r .

SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t C h e m i c a l C o r p : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t ion I

Creams

143

Skin Care Cream F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s p r o d u c t i m p a r t s good s k i n f e e l and h a s a h i g h q u a l i t y appearance, th o u g h t h e p r o d u c t i o n i s c o s t e f f e c t i v e . There a r e a l s o b a r r i e r and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s w h i c h a r e h i g h l y e f f e c t i v e h y d r a t i o n s y s t e m f o r a l l s k i n t y p e s . The f o r m u l a a l s o w i l l h e l p reduce transepidermal water l o s s .

wt%

Oil Phase: C e t y l S t e a r y l A l c o h o l 1618 (P&G) NF W h i t e Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) L i g h t M i n e r a l Oil ( W i t c o ) Propylene g l y c o l Dioctanate ( I n o l e x ) S t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Coconut O i 1 (CocoChem) P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) W a t e r Phase: W a t e r ( D i s t i 11e d ) G l y c e r i n e (UniChema) C a r b o x y m e t h y l C e l l u l o s e (CMC, Carbopol 940 (BFGoodrich) Sodium B o r a t e ( B o r a x ) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (Dow) M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

Hercules)

4.50 2.50 3.00 5.00 1.50 0.50 1.25 0.20 74.25 5.50 0.30 0.60 0-40 0.30 0.20

Procedure: Add t o t h e w a t e r p h a s e u n d e r a g i t a t i o n , i n o r d e r ; CMC u n t i l e v e r y t h i n g i s d i s s o l v e d t h e n p r o p y l p a r a b e n w h i l e m i x i n g . Then add C a r b o p o l , m i x t i l l homogeneous m a k i n g s u r e t h e r e i s no a g g l o m e r a t i o n . Add t h e r e m a i n d e r o f t h e w a t e r p h a s e components, m i x and h e a t t o 75C. Add a l l t h e o i l p h a s e components, h e a t t i l l 75C and m i x . Add s l o w l y t h e o i l p h a s e t o t h e w a t e r p h a s e u n d e r a g i t a t i o n m a i n t a i n i n g a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C. When t h e o i l p h a s e i s added, c o o l and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : By r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f m i n e r a l o i l b y 2 . 0 %, p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l d i o c t a n a t e by 0.5% and t h e a d d i t i o n o f 2.5% E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) t h e cream w i l l t a k e on an SPF o f 6 - 8 . The p r o d u c t h a s t h e same a p p e a r a n c e , s k i n f e e l and s t a b i l i t y a s t h e above f o r m u l a . F r a g r a n c e s c a n a l s o b e added w i t h o u t affecting i t s texture.

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c , : A G u i d e t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g

144

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin Cream F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i gn a n d A d v a n t a g e s : The e m u l s i f y i n g wax adds t o t h e s t a b i l i t y a n d r i c h n e s s o f t h e cream.

O i l Phase: E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF ( K o s t e r Keunen) Sunf 1ower O i 1 (A1 n o r o i 1 ) 0 1 iv e O i 1 , Unsaponi f iab1 e ( C o l l a b o r a t i v e L a b s ) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (Unichema) Liquapar (Sutton) W a t e r Phase: Water ( D e i o n i z e d ) G l y c e r i n e (Unichema)

>W 12.0 6.0

3.0 2.0 1.0 74.0 2.0

Procedure: M i x and h e a t o i l p h a s e t o 75C. M i x and h e a t w a t e r phase t o 75C. Add o i l p h a s e t o w a t e r p h a s e . C o o l . A d a p t a t i o n of F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : O t h e r a c t i v e s may b e s u b s t i t u t e d f o r t h e o l i v e o i l .

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen,

I n c . : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g Hand Care Cream

!&& S e t a c i n F Spezial Paste I m w i t o r 960 M i g l y o l 840

58.0 10.0 5.0

P a r t B: Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e Water

0.5 25.5

P a r t A:

Part C:

0.3 0.7

Lactic acid Perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e

M i x p a r t A , B and C e a c h s e p a r a t e l y . Add p a r t B a n d C s u c c e s s i v e l y t o p a r t A w h i l s t s t i r r i n g .

SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co.:

Formulation B 27/14

Creams

145

Skin Lightening Night Cream Against Age Spots T h i s a g r e e a b l e , r i c h n i g h t cream c o n t a i n s M e l f a d e , w h i c h h a s a bleaching a c t i v i t y . Pentavitin provides the skin w i t h moisture and r e g e n e r a t e s t h e s k i n .

Item 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Inqredients: Cremophor A6 Cremophor A25 C u t i n a GMS Lanette 0 Stearic Acid Paraffin O i l C e t i o l SN Vase1 ine w h i t e A b i 1-350

Wei n h t % 2.50 2.50 4.00 3.00 1.oo 10.00 5.00 3.00 4.00

A)

10 11 12 13 14 15

8 ) D e i o n i z e d Water I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a Phenoni p G1 y c e r i n Pentaviti n Melfade

16

C)

51 - 0 0 0.20 0.50 3.00 5.00 5.00

F r a g r a n c e : Chi a r a 0/238927

0.30

Procedure: H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y p h a s e A ) t o 70C. H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r p h a s e B ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add p h a s e B ) t o p h a s e A ) , c o o l t o 50C, homogenize a n d c o o l t o 30C. Then add p h a s e C) and s t i r c o l d . SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d , :

A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 0 3 2 . 8 / 0 1 . 9 6

Cleansing Cream with Salicylic Acid Innredients: S o f t i s a n 601 ( G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ( a n d ) H y d r o g e n a t e d Coconut O i l ( a n d ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 5 ) I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e C i t r a t e ) M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) C e t y l A1 coho1 S a l ic y 1 ic A c i d

Weight%

A.

B . P r e s e r v a t iv e

18.00 10.00 15.00 2.00 0.50

q.s. up t o 100.00

Water

Preparation: I n g r e d i e n t s o f " A t 1 a r e m e l t e d t o a b o u t 75 d e g r e e s C . " B t l i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and i s e m u l s i f i e d i n t o " A t t . S t i r u n t i l cold.

SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . :

Formulation 1. 1 L

146

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin Rejuvenating Cream A s y n e r g i s t i c combination o f Gum i s u s e d t o t h i c k e n and s t a b A p p r o x i mate1 y 5% G1 y c o l ic A c i d , orated i n t o t h e formula t o prov ating function.

Veegum P l u s and R h o d i g e l X a n t h a n l i z e t h i s o i l - i n - w a t e r emulsion. an a l p h a - h y d r o x y a c i d , i s i n c o r p de i t s w e l l - k n o w n s k i n r e j u v e n -

Innredi ent : A:

W t .%*

Veegum P1 u s , Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e Dei o n i z e d Water Rhodi g e l , X a n t h a n Gum

B: G l y c e r i n

C:

Triethanolamine,

0.95 63 67 0.29 I

4.75

99%

0.71

D: C e t y l Alcohol G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 1 6 5 ) Stearic Acid Isopropyl Palmitate M i n e r a l O i 1 ( a n d ) L a n o l in A l c o h o l ( A m e r c h o l L - 1 0 1 ) Dimethicone (350 c s . )

2.85 4.28 1.43 4.28 4.28 1.43

E : P r e s e r v a t ive G l y c o l i c A c i d (67% S o l n . ) S o d i urn H y d r o x i d e (50% S o l n . )

0.95 7.13 3.00

Procedure: D r y b l e n d t h e Veegum P l u s and R h o d i g e l and s l o w l y add t h e m i x t u r e t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w a t e r w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a t 1800 rpm. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 30 m i n u t e s . Add P a r t B and m i x 5 m i n u t e s . H e a t P a r t s A+B t o 50-55C and add P a r t C . M i x 3 m i n u t e s . H e a t t h e w a t e r p h a s e t o 75C. M i x and h e a t P a r t D t o 75-80C. Add P a r t D t o p a r t s A+B+C w h i l e s t i r r i n g a t 1800 rpm f o r 10 m i n u t e s . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 75C. B e g i n c o o l i n g w h i l e s t i r r i n g . A t 40C, add P a r t E i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g each u n t i l u n i f o r m . C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and s l o w t h e s t i r r e r t o 900 rpm. Check t h e pH and a d j u s t , i f n e c e s s a r y , t o 4 . 2 - 4 . 5 . Package a t 35-38C. *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE: R , T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . ,

I n c , : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n No. 462

Creams

147

Skin Therapy Cream % by Weight

Ingredients: Phase A : Phosphol ip i d GLA Phosphol ip i d SV Glycerin Titanium Dioxide Germaben I I E AMP-95 Water

1.50 2.20 2.00 0.50 0.40 0.40

80.00

Phase 6: Cetyl Alcohol Steareth-2 Monafax 160 Squal ane Octyl Stearate Isopropyl Palmitate Dow C o r n i n g F l u i d 200/350 c s . Procedure: Add Phase 6 t o Phase A v e r y s l o w l y ; w i l l t h i c k e n beyond use.

2.00 2.00 1-00 0.80 4.00 2.40 0.80 keep v i s c o s i t y low o r i t

SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l Co. : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y : F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0347 s u g g e s t e d b y Mona I n d u s t r i e s Cream, Type O/W, with Protectan* % by Weight

a ) C u t i n a MD C u t i n a CP E u m u l g i n 61 E u m u l g i n 62 Cetiol 6 Phenon ip

4.00 4.00 1 .oo 1.oo 5.00 0.30

b ) Water, d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p C a r b o p o l 940 T r i e t h a n o l ami n e G1 y c e r i n

70.40 0.30 0.50 0.50 3.00

c) Protectan

10.00

Manufacture: M e l t a ) and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C. B r i n g b ) t o a p p r o x . 70C and s t i r i n t o a ) . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C. Add c ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Perfume, h o m o g e n i z e . *Protectan i s a Lactococcus l a c t i s l y s a t e . High a n t i o x i d a t i v e potential.

SOURCE: Chemi s c h e s L a b o r a t o r i um D r . K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: F o r m u l a

148

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Ultra Skin Treatment Cream Veegum U l t r a i s an i d e a l c a n d i d a t e f o r t h i c k e n i n g and s t a b i l i z i n g t h i s a c i d i c o i l - i n - w a t e r e m u l s i o n because i t y i e l d s a l o w pH when d i s p e r s e d i n w a t e r . When u s e d i n c o m b i n a t i o n w i t h R h o d i g e l X a n t h a n Gum, s y n e r g i s t i c t h i c k e n i n g and s t a b i l i z a t i o n i s a c h i e v e d . A p p r o x i m a t e l y 5% G l y c o l i c A c i d i s added t o p r o v i d e i t s well-known s k i n r e j u v e n a t i n g f u n c t i o n . Inqredient : Veegum U l t r a , Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e D e i o n i z e d Water R h o d i g e l , X a n t h a n Gum

A:

B: G l y c e r i n C: Triethanolamine, D:

W t .%*

1.43 63.51 0.29 4.76

99%

0.71

Cetyl Alcohol 2.85 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 165) 4 . 2 8 Stearic Acid 1.43 Isopropyl Palmitate 4.28 M i n e r a l O i 1 (and) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l (Amerchol L-101) 4.28 D i me th i c o n e (350 c s . ) 1.43

E : P r e s e r v a t iv e G l y c o l i c A c i d (67% S o l n . ) S o d i um H y d r o x i d e (50% S o l n . )

0.95 7.14 2.66

Procedure: D r y b l e n d t h e Veegum U l t r a a n d R h o d i g e l . S l o w l y add t h e m i x t u r e t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w a t e r w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a t 1800 r p m . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 30 m i n u t e s . Add P a r t B a n d m i x 5 m i n u t e s . H e a t P a r t s A+B t o 50-55C and add P a r t C . M i x 3 m i n u t e s . H e a t t h e w a t e r p h a s e t o 75C. M i x and h e a t t h e P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s t o 75-8OC. Add P a r t D t o P a r t s A+B+C. S t i r a t 1800 r p m f o r 10 m i n u t e s . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 75C. B e g i n c o o l i n g w h i l e s t i r r i n g . A t 40C, add t h e P a r t E i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g e a c h u n t i l u n i f o r m . C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and s l o w t h e m i x e r t o 900 r p m . Check t h e pH a n d a d j u s t , i f n e c e s s a r y , t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 , Package a t 35-38C.

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . ,

Inc.:

Veegurn F o r m u l a t i o n N o . 463

Creams

149

W/O Basic Cream for Dry Skin, with Evening Primrose Oil

Insredients: Wei s h t % 4.00 A) M i g l y o 1 840 ( P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ) I m w i t o r 780K ( I s o s t e a r y l D i g l y c e r y l S u c c i n a t e ) 5.00 6.00 D y n a c e r i n 660 ( O l e y l E r u c a t e ) S o f t i san Gel ( B i s-Di g l y c e r y l Pol y a c y l a d i pat e-2 ( a n d ) P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r a l k o n i um H e c t o r i t e ( a n d ) P r o p y l e n e 3.00 Carbonate) 2.00 W h i t e Beeswax 2.00 L u n a c e r a M ( M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax) 6.00 Mineral O i l 5.00 E v e n i ng P r i m r o s e O i 1 q.s. 65.00

B) P r e s e r v a t i v e Water Perfume O i l

Q.S.

P r e p a r a t i on : ( A ) h e a t e d up t o c a . d e g r e e s C . u n t i l homogeneous. ( B ) i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . The p e r f u m e o i l c a n b e added b e l o w 30 d e g r e e s C . The e m u l s i o n must be s t i r r e d u n t i l c o o l . Formulation 1.2L Peeling Cream In a r e d ie n t s : S o f t i s a n 601 ( G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ( a n d ) H y d r o g e n a t e d Coconut O i 1 (a n d ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 5 ) I m w i t o r 900 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) M i g l y o 1 840 ( P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D icaprate) D y n a c e r i n 660 ( 0 1 e y l E r u c a t e ) M a r l i p a l 1618/25 ( C e t e a r e t h - 2 5 ) Cremophor A6 ( C e t e a r e t h - 6 ( a n d ) S t e a r y l A l c o h o l )

Wei a h t %

A)

B) A m p h o l y t J B 130/K ( C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) A1 1 a n t o i n Preservative Water

.

3.00 2.00 1 .80 1.20

5.00 0.20 q.s. up t o 1 0 0 . 0 0 9,s. 3.00

C) F r a g r a n c e Almond Meal ( o r 1 . 5 % Sea Sand) P r e p a r a t ion : ( A ) i s m e l t e d a t a b o u t 75 d e g r e e s same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o Sand and f r a g r a n c e i s added a t a b o u t Formul a t i on 1 1S SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . : S u g g e s t e d

10.00 10.00 15.00

C . (B) i s b r o u g h t t o t h e ( A ) . Almond Meal o r Sea 35 d e g r e e s C . Formulations

150

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

W/O Cream with Almond Oil and Shea Butter Ingredients: Wei q h t % A) S o f t i s a n Gel ( B i s - D i g l y c e r y l P o l y a c r y l a d i p a t e - 1 (and) Propylene G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e (and) 10.00 Stearalkonium H e c t o r i t e (and) Propylene Carbonate) M i g l y o l 840 ( P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ) 10.00 D y n a c e r i n 660 ( O l e y l E r u c a t e ) 2.00 I m w i t o r 780K ( I s o s t e a r y l D i g l y c e r y l S u c c i n a t e ) 5.00 Almond O i l 2 .oo Shea B u t t e r 2.00 Oxynex 2004 (BHT ( a n d ) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) G1 y c e r y l 01 e a t e ( a n d ) A s c o r b y l P a l m i t a t e ( a n d ) 0.02 C i t r i c A c i d (and) Propylene G l y c o l ) B) Magnesium S u l f a t e N i p a g i n M ( M e t h y l Paraben) N i p a s o l M ( P r o p y l Paraben) Phenoxyethanol Dei o n i zed W a t e r

2.00 0.15 0.05 0 50 I

66.28

Preparation: ( A ) i s h e a t e d t o 75-80 d e g r e e s C . ( B ) i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . Cool w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o t h e desired temperature. F o r m u l a t i o n N o. 1.2M

Soft W/O Cream with Softisan 649

I naredi ents : A ) I m w i t o r 780K ( I s o s t e a r y l D i g l y c e r y l S u c c i n a t e ) S o f t i s a n 649 ( B i s - D i g l y c e r y l P o l y a c y l a d i p a t e - 2 ) A l u g e l DF 30 ( A l u m i n u m S t e a r a t e ) Mineral O i l Petrolatum 6) P r e s e r v a t i v e Water F r a g r a n c e B e l 1e f r e s h

Weight% 5.00 3.00 0.75 10.00 10.00 9.5..

up t o 1 0 0 . 0 0

0.30

Preparation: ( A ) i s m i x e d homogeneously and b r o u g h t t o 80 d e g r e e s C. i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . P e r f u m e i s added a t a b o u t 35 d e g r e e s C . Formulation 1.2N

SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a Inc.: S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

(B)

Creams

151

W/O-Cream

WtOIo

Recipe: H o s t a c e r i n WOL Lunacera M M i n e r a l o i l , low v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate Isopropyl isostearate Squal ane Panth e n o l

6.00 2.50 5.00 4.00 4.00 5.00 0.50

A

6

1,2-Propylene g l y c o l Magnesi um s u l f a t e C i t r i c a c i d (10%) H o e c h s t P o t a s s i urn S o r b a t e Hoechst S o r b i c A c i d Water

C

Fragrance

4.00 0.70 0.10 0.15 0.08 67.57 0.40

Procedure: 1 M e l t A a t c a . 80C. 2 Heat B t o c a . 80C. 3 S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i l c o o l . 4 A t c a . 35C add C t o 3 . Formula A VI/2754 Chamomile Glycerin Cream

WtOIo

Reci pe : H o s t a c e r i n CG M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y C e t i o l SN Isopropyl isostearate

10.00 8.00 4.00 4.00

A

B

C a r b o p o l 980

C

A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . C i t r i c a c i d (10%) Caust ic soda s o l u t i on ( 10%) E x t r a p o n chamomi 1 e s p e c i a1 G1 y c e r i n Water P r e s e r v a t iv e

D

Fragrance

Procedure: 1 M e l t A a t c a . 70C t h e n add B. 3 S t i r 2 into 1 5 A t 35C add D t o 4 . Formula A VI/6506

0.30 0.10 0.25 1.20 0.50 10.00 61 - 2 5 q.s. 0.40

2 4 6

H e a t C t o c a . 70C. S t i r u n t i l cool. Homogenize i f n e c e s s a r y .

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r t h e C o s m e t i c I n d u s t r y

Section VI Hair Care Products

152

Hair Care Products

153

Acudyne 255 55% VOC DME Aerosol Hair Spray Fast-drying, formula.

e x t r e m e l y l o w - t a c k and e x c e l l e n t c u r l r e t e n t i o n % by Weight

Ingredients: Water Ethanol AMP-95 DC-190 F l u i d

A.

31 . 8 4 25,OO 0.56 0.10

8 . Acudyne 255 ( 4 1 % )

12.50

C.

30.00

Dymel A

Procedure: P r e p a r e p h a s e A . Then add p h a s e €3 w i t h s t i r r i n g . M i x u n t i l solution i s s l i g h t l y t u r b i d but active ingredients are dispersed. Add p h a s e C . The m i x t u r e w i l l i m m e d i a t e l y t u r n c l e a r . Physical Characteritics: C l o u d p o i n t : <-22F Vapor P r e s s u r e : 33 p s i g a t 70F 87 p s i g a t 130F F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0371 s u g g e s t e d b y Rohm & Haas (PF-050) Non-Aerosol Hair Spray, Low VOC Ingredients: Alcohol, denatured Gant r e z ES-225

% by Weight 74-00 9.20

A.

0.40 5.15 10.00 1 .oo

8 . AMP-95 P e r m e t h y l 101A Permet h y l 102A V i g i l a n AWS C.

Fragrance

0.25

Procedure: M i x A u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . S l o w l y add B i n o r d e r shown. M i x u n t i l c l e a r s o l u t i o n d e v e l o p s . Add C a s d e s i r e d . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0372 s u g g e s t e d b y P r e s p e r s e SOURCE: Angus Chemi c a l

Co. : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

154

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Acudyne 255 55% VOC Extra Hold Pump Hair Spray % by W e i g h t 27.14 55.00 0.76 0.10

Insredi ents: Water Ethanol AMP-95 DC 190 F l u i d

A.

B.

Acudyne 255 ( 4 1 % )

Procedure: P re pa r e phase A . solution i s clear.

17.00

Then add p h a s e 8 w i t h s t i r r i n g . M i x u n t i l

Physical Characteristics: C l o u d p o i n t : -18F V i s c o s i t y ( # 1 @ 60 r p m ) :

1 0 . 0 cps

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0390 s u g g e s t e d b y Rohm & Haas Co.

(PF-056)

Acudyne 255 0% VOC Pump Hair Spray Inqredients: Water AQ-55 AMP-95 C i t r o f 1e x - 2 Acudyne 255 (41%) Preservative

% by Weinht 88.78 3.20 0.42 0.10 7.50 9,s.

Procedure: H e a t 40 p a r t s w a t e r t o 9OC. Add p h a s e 0 w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add 4 8 . 8 p a r t s a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e w a t e r and a l l o w t o c o o l t o a p p r o x i m a t e l y room t e m p e r a t u r e . Add r e m a i n d e r o f i n g r e d i e n t s i n order. Physical Characteristics: Cloud p o i n t : - l O C V i s c o s i t y : 4.0 cps F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0391 s u g g e s t e d b y Rohm & Haas Co. SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l Co. : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

(PF-058)

Hair Care Products

155

Aerosol Styling Spray Formulated t o g i v e a v e r y q u i c k d r y i n g spray which g i v e s a f i r m b u t n a t u r a l h o l d . The f a s t d r y i n g f e a t u r e a l l o w s i n s t a n t s e t t i n g o f c u r l s . The s p r a y a l s o a f f o r d s e a s y comb-out and washabi 1 it y

.

Ingredients: Versatyl-42 Ami n o m e t h y l P r o p a n o l P u r c e l 1 in O i 1 2/066210 Dow C o r n i n g 190 S u r f a c t a n t Monamid 716 Fragrance E t h a n o l , SDA-40 P r o p e l 1 a n t A-46

P a r t s by Weight 4.50 1.08 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 49.02 45.00

Preparation: Charge m i x i n g v e s s e l w i t h SDA-40. W h i l e m i x i n g , add aminomethyl propanol S i f t V e r s a t y l - 4 2 in t o sol u t i on w i t h c o n t i n u e d m i x i n g . When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s . F i l t e r s o l u t i o n and f i l l a e r o s o l c o n t a i n e r s . Charge p r o p e l l a n t . Can: C o n t i n e n t a l V a l v e : P r e c i s i o n , 0 . 0 1 8 f f s t e m ( # 0 4 - 1 2 2 0 ) , Buna g a s k e t ( # 0 5 - 0 3 1 0 , SS s p r i n g ( # 0 6 - 6 0 1 0 ) , 0 . 0 1 8 " b o d y x 0 . 0 1 3 " V . T . ( # 0 7 - 0 1 3 1 ) , #12-7100 c u p , #09-2010 d i p t u b e , #01-1836 a c t u a t o r . F o r m u l a t i o n No. 6186-101

.

Aqueous Conditioning and Styling Mousse T h i s c o n d i t i o n i n g mousse p r o v i d e s i m p r o v e d g l o s s and managea b i 1 it y a1 l o w i ng f o r e a s i e r s t y 1 in g . Ingredients: A ) C e l q u a t L-200 Dei o n i zed Water B ) C r o t e i n SPO Crotein Q Ethoquad 0/12 DC- 190 Sodium C h l o r i d e P r e s e r v a t iv e Fragrance C) P r o p e l l a n t A-46 Valve S p e c i f i c a t i o n s :

P a r t s by W e i g h t 1.oo 81 - 9 0 0.20 0.20 1 .oo 0.20 0.50 q.s. q.s. 15.00 P r e c i s i o n Foam V a l v e Stem: 2 x 0 . 0 2 0 " Body: I n v e r t e d w i t h T a i l p i e c e A c t u a t o r : Mars I n v e r t e d S p o u t

Preparation: P r e p a r e s o l u t i o n o f ( A ) . Add (6). When homogenous, f i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e . Charge ( C ) . F o r m u l a t i o n No. 4497-113 SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and C h e m i c a l C o . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

156

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Alcohol-Free Aerosol Hairspray Ingredi ents: Lovocryl 47 AMP-95 Burst, RSD-10 Deioni zed Water Dimethyl ether Preservative Cloud Point: -15C

% by Wei ght 5.00 1.01 0.50 60.49 33.00 q.s.

Procedure: Disperse Burst in water. Dissolve AMP-95 in the solution. When complete, slowly sift in Lovocryl 47 w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n . Mix u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l . Charge wi th propel 1 ant. Valve: Seaquist Valve NS-34 Stem: 0.013" Gasket: B u t y l , 0.042" Ink. Code: 501 Spring: 0.020" SS Body: Capi11ary Cup: R e g u l a r , Epoxy Top, Laminate Bottom, D i m p l e d , Code: 1610 Vapor Tap: 0.013" Dip Tube: 0.040" Actuator: Excel-200 Misty 0.016" Misty F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0351 suggested by N a t i o n a l Starch & Chemical Corp. (7502:956) Hair Spritz Ijigredi ents : Crovol M40~ AMP-95 Ethanol DEB100 Gantrez ES425 Escalol 507 Deionized water d-Panthenol Perfume Preservati ves Color

% by Wei ght 0.50 0.16 to 100.00 8.00 1.OO 11.36 0.10 q.s. q.s. q.s.

Procedure: Dissolve AMP in the alcohol. Add Gantrez ES resin with m i x i n g . Mix in the Escalol and then add the Crovol. Pre-mix the water and panthenol, and then add the alcohol. Mix u n t i l clear. Formulation PF-0359E suggested by Croda, UK

SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Product Formulary

Hair Care Products

157

Alcohol-Free Firm Holding Mousse T h i s a l c o h o l - f r e e , f i r m h o l d i n g mousse g i v e s v e r y good w e t / d r y c o m b a b i l i t y , e x c e l l e n t h o l d , and a l s o c o n d i t i o n s t h e h a i r . Inaredients: A . Amphomer Lovocryl-47 AMP-95 T r i t o n X-100 DC-929 S i 1 ic o n e P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Panthenol Var ion CADG- LS D o w i c i l 200 D e i o n i z e d Water

% bv Weight 2.63 1 .13 0.64 0.20 0.60 0.10 0.20 0.20 0.10 46.90

8 . N a t r o s o l 250 HHX

Dei o n i zed W a t e r

0.30 37.00

P r o p e l l a n t A-46

10.00

C.

Procedure: P r e p a r e p o r t i o n s ( A ) and ( B ) . When s o l u t i o n s a r e c o m p l e t e , add ( A ) t o ( B ) and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r a n d f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e . Emplace V a l v e . Charge p r o p e l l a n t ( C ) . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0354 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & C h e m i c a l Corp. (8384-49-4) Alcohol-Free Styling Mousse Ingredients: A . L o v o c r y l 47 AMP-95 DC-929 S i 1 ic o n e T r i t o n X-100 V a r i on CADG-LS Fragrance D o w i c i l 200 Deionized water

% by Weight 2.50 0.51 0.40 0.30 0.10 9.5. 0.10 48.79

Deionized water

0.30 37.00

C. P r o D e l l a n t A-46

10.00

6. N a t r o s o l 250 HHR

Procedure: P r e p a r e p o r t i o n s ( A ) and ( B ) s e p a r a t e l y . When s o l u t i o n s a r e c o m p l e t e , add ( A ) t o ( B ) and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and fill c o n c e n t r a t e . CHarge w i t h p r o p e l l a n t ( C ) . F o r m u l a t ion PF-0355 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t io n a l S t a r c h and Chemi c a l Corp. (7502:105A) SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l C o r p . : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

158

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Alcohol-Free Non-Aerosol Spritz T h i s l o w VOC f o r m u l a t i o n p r o v i d e s s p r a y a b i l i t y , and good h u m i d i t y r e s i s t a n c e .

f i r m hold,

Ingredients: E m u l s i o n 25-3800 AMP-95 Monawet MO-75E Deionized water

% by Weight 14.00 1 .oo 0.30 84.70

(50% a c t i v e )

Procedure: Combine w a t e r , MO-75E and AMP. N e x t , add p o l y m e r e m u l s i o n w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . F i l t e r and f i l l concentrate.

V a l v i ng and A c t u a t o r : Pump T y p e : Liner: C1 o s u r e : Spring: Body : D i p Tube: Insert: Seal V a l v e : Hood : Turret: CO.

E u r o M i s t , 190 mcl PE/Butyl 24-410, W h i t e 302 SS, 1 l b 0 o z . 190 m c l o u t p u t 7 ” , 0.060” I D , 0 1 0 ” x , 0 1 0 ” deep Standard SBS, C l e a r 24 mm

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0402 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & C h e m i c a l (8757-120-2) Super Hold Pump Spray

Inaredients: SD A l c o h o l 4 0 , 190 p r o o f Deionized water AMP-95 Dow C o r n i n g 02-5220 P o l y e t h e r F r a g r a n c e (Peach F l o r a l 92F/3235)

A.

% by Weight

84.21 8.12 1.47 0.10 0.10 6.00

B. L u v i m e r 100 P

Procedure: Combine p h a s e A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d , m i x i n g a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . Sprinkle B i n t o A with mixing u n t i l clear. F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0398 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF (DKL84/3)

SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l G o . :

Product Formulary

Hair Care Products

159

Alcohol-Free Ringing Gel with Hold

Parts b y Weiaht

Ingredients: Part A: Dei oni zed Water Propylene Glycol AMP-Regul ar Amphome r Part B: Lt. Mineral Oil Volpo 5 Crodafos N10 Neutral Crodafos N3 Neutral Part C: Germaben I 1

57.59 12.00 0.41 3.00 10.00 9 .oo 4.00 3.00 1

.oo

Preparati on : Part A: Combine the water, AMP, and propylene glycol. While maintaining good agitation, slowly sift in Amphomer. Slowly heat Part A to 70C. Part 6: Combine ingredients o f Part B and heat to 80C. Add Part B to Part A with mixing and start to cool. Add Part C when the temperature drops to approximately 55C. Continue mi xi ng for fi ve mi nutes o r unti 1 homogeneous. Cool to room temperature. Formul a No. 8802 : 766 Cream Hair Conditioner

This cream hair conditioner has excellent wet combability, adds body to the hair, and has good hold. Inaredi ents: A) Cel quat L-200 Triethanolamine Propylene G1 ycol D i sti 1 1 ed Water Preservative

B) Acetulan Amerchol L-101 Stearic Acid XXX Emerest 2407 Mineral Oil Fragrance

Parts by Weight 1.oo

0.50 2.25 76.25 9,s.

0.50 2.50 1.25 1 .oo 14.75 9,s.

Preparat i on : Heat A and 6 separately to BOC. While mixing, add 6 to A. Continue mixing while cooling to 25-3OC. Add C. Adjust pH to 7 . 5 if necessary. M i x until uniform. Formula No. 3474-28 SOURCE: National Starch and Chemical Co.: Suggested Formulations

160

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Alcohol-Free Styling Mousse T h i s a l c o h o l - f r e e s t y l i n g mousse h a s good w e t / d r y good s u b j e c t i v e p r o p e r t i e s and e x c e l l e n t h o l d . Ingredients:

A.

B. C.

combability,

% by Weight

L o v o c r y l 47 AMP-95 DC-929 S i 1 i cone T r i t o n X-100 dl-Panthenol Neo H e l i o p a n H y d r o Crotein 0 D o w i c i l 200 Dei o n i z e d w a t e r N a t r o s o l 250 HHR Dei o n i z e d w a t e r P r o p e l l a n t A-46

3.00 0.63 0.30 0.30 0.10 0.10 0.20 0.10 40.01 0.40 44.86 10.00

Procedure: P r e p a r e p a r t A b y d i s s o l v i n g AMP-95 i n w a t e r . W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n t h e L o v o c r y l - 4 7 . When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s . P r e p a r e p a r t B . When s o l u t i o n s a r e c o m p l e t e , add A t o B and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e . Charge c a n s w i t h p r o p e l 1a n t C Formul a t ion PF-0356 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t io n a l S t a r c h & Cherni c a l Corp. (7879:HlOl) I

Alcohol-Free Styling Mousse Ingredients:

A_ Amphomer AMP-95 DC-929 S i 1 i c o n e T r i t o n X-100 V a r i o n CADG Fragrance D o w i c i l 200 Deionized water DC- 190 B . N a t r o s o l 250 H H R Deionized water C . P r o p e l l a n t A-46

% by Weight

3.00 0.52 0.40 0.30 0.10 q.s. 0.10 48.08 0.40 0.30 36.80 10.00

Procedure: P r e p a r e p o r t i o n s A and B . When s o l u t i o n s a r e c o m p l e t e , add A t o B and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e . Charge p r o p e l l a n t C . Formul a t i on PF-0357 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemi c a l Corp. (7974:32-3) SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o r p , : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

161

Brush-On Hair Color T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n p r o v i d e s d r a m a t i c s t r e a k s and h i g h l i g h t s y e t r i n s e s o u t e a s i 1y

.

A : Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e ( 5 % A q . S o l n . ) B : H y d r o x y p r o p y l c e l l u l o s e (5% A q . S o l n . ) ( K l u c e l G ) C : D e i o n i z e d Water PVP ( L u v i s k o l K30) Methylparaben D: C e t y l Alcohol C e t e a r e t h - 2 5 (Cremophor A25) Propylparaben E: D e i o n i z e d Water P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l F : M i c a (a n d ) I r o n Ox i d e s ( C o l o r o n a Copper) G: DMDM H y d a n t o i n ( G l y d a n t )

__ Wt% 10.00 15.00 24.00 2.00 0.20 3.60 2.40 0.10 17.34 5.00 20 I O 0 0.36

Procedure: P r e p a r e A and B i n a d v a n c e . Combine C and h e a t t o 75C w i t h s t i r r i n g . Combine D . H e a t t o 75C s t i r r i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add D t o C w i t h c o u n t e r r o t a t i o n a g i t a t i o n . C o o l t o 40C. S e p a r a t e l y , add B t o A f o l l o w e d b y E , s t i r r i n g u n t i l homogeneous. Add c o m b i n e d A,B,E t o C+D. Homogenize a t h i g h s p e e d f o r 5 m i n u t e s w i t h a S i l v e r s o n - t y p e h o m o g e n i z e r . Add F and G, s t i r r i n g w i t h c o u n t e r r o t a t i o n a g i t a t i o n . C o o l t o 30C. Package i n mascara v i a1 s w i t h b r u s h a p p l ic a t o r . F o r m u l a f r o m Rona Creme-in Hair Cleanser Ammoni u m L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( C a r s o n 0 1 ALS) C o c o a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne Laurami de DEA ( C a r s a m i de SAL-7) PPG-5-Ceteth 10 P h o s p h a t e ( C r o d a f o s SG) S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r e t h 20 (Cosmowax K ) S u c r o s e C o c o a t e ( C r o d e s t a SL-40) Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Crotein Q) Veegum K , Magnesi u m A 1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e Water Dye, f r a g r a n c e

__ Wt% 15.00 10.00 2 .oo 2.00 2.50 12.00

3.00 0.45 53.05 q.s.

Procedure: D i s p e r s e t h e Veegum K i n h a l f t h e w a t e r and h e a t t o 85C u n t i l a uniform s l u r r y i s achieved. Dissolve t h e Crodesta i n t h e r e s t o f t h e w a t e r , t h e n d i s s o l v e t h e C r o t e i n Q. Heat o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s t o 60C w i t h s t i r r i n g . Cool t o 40C, add f r a g r a n c e and f i l l o f f . Formula f r o m Croda

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . ,

Inc.: Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n s

I62

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

California Dream Hairspray

-

55% VOC

-

5% Solids % bv Weiaht

Innredients: Phase A : Dei o n i z e d W a t e r SD A l c o h o l 40, 190 p r o o f D-Panthenol Cremophor A 25 Dow C o r n i n g 193 P o l y e t h e r AMP-95 L u v i m e r Low VOC

27.83 15.80 0.20 0.25 0.50 1.22 14.00

Phase B: F r a g r a n c e ( V i b r a n t Spash 94F/2203)

0.20

Phase C: Dymel A

40.00

Procedure: Combine Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e w r i t t e n o r d e r . Add B t o A and m i x w e l l . F i 11 i n t o a p p r o p r i a t e c o n t a i n e r s w i t h p r o p e l l a n t . Packaging: W h i t e C o a t e d Aluminum Can ( P e e r l e s s Tube C o r p . ) A q u a s o l V a l v e & Concave Kosmos A c t u a t o r ( P r e c i s on V a l v e C o r p ) Overcap ( B e r r y P l a s t i c s ) F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0349 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF C o r p .

(SG 0 9 6 / 4 )

Non-Alcohol Hairspray Ingredients: A m p homer AMP-95 Dei o n i z e d W a t e r S o d i um B e n z o a t e Ammoni urn h y d r o x i de Fragrance G1 y c e r i ne DC-190 S i l i c o n e Dimethyl Ether

% by Weiaht 5.00 0.89 61 - 6 6 0.10 0.05 q.S.

0.10 0.20 32.00

Procedure: D i s s o l v e AMP-95, Sodium B e n z o a t e and Ammonium H y d r o x i d e i n t h e w a t e r . S l o w l y add Amphomer t o t h e s o l u t i o n w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n . When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e . Add p r o p e l 1a n t . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0350 s u g g e s t e d by N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & C h e m i c a l Corp. (6472:93)

SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l C o . :

Product Formulary

Hair Care Products

163

Clear Hair Rinse Formulation Natrosol v i s c o s i f i e s t h i s c r y s t a l - c l e a r h a i r r i n s e , which p r o m o t e s m a n a g e a b i l i t y . C o n t r o f o r m u l a s made w i t h o u t N a t r o s o l h a v e v i s c o s i t i e s o f l e s s t h a n 00 c p s . Ingredients: N a t r o s o l 250HHR CS Water Cocami d o p r o p y l ami n e o x i d e (30% Laurami ne o x i d e ( 3 0 % ) C e t r imon iurn c h 1o r i de ( 25%) Perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e

q.s.

Wei qht% 1.0 73.5 5.1 10.2 10.2 t o 100.0

Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e N a t r o s o l i n w a t e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M i x u n t i l f u l l y dissolved. 2 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d , m i x i n g we1 1 b e t w e e n a d d i t i o n s . ( B r o o k f i e l d v i s c o s i t y a t 30 rpm, 25C=3,360 c p s [ m P a s ] ) Pearlescent Cream Rinse Formulation N a t r o s o l v i s c o s i f i e s t h i s p r o d u c t and p r e v e n t s p h a s e s e p a r a t i o n Ingredients: Phase A : N a t r o s o l 250HHR CS Water

Wei q h t % 1.3 82.3

Phase B : S t e a r a l k o n i u m c h l o r i d e (25%) Propylene g l ycol Glycol stearate 01 e t h - 2 0 P o l y q u a t e r n i um-1 7 ( 6 2 % ) Perfume,

preservative

10.1 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.8 q.s.

t o 100.0

Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e N a t r o s o l i n w a t e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M i x u n t i l f u l l y dissolved. 2 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , m i x t h e s t e a r a l k o n i u m c h l o r i d e and p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l . H e a t t o 80C. 3 . Add t h e o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s l i s t e d i n Phase B, i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d , t o t h e m i x t u r e o f s t e a r a l k o n i u m c h l o r i d e and p r o p y l ene g l y c o l . M i x w e l l b e t w e e n each a d d i t i o n . 4 . Add t h e s u r f a c t a n t m i x t u r e t o t h e N a t r o s o l s o l u t i o n . M X we1 1 . Cool t o 35C. 5 . Add p e r f u m e a n d p r e s e r v a t i v e . ( B r o o k f i e l d v i s c o s i t y a t 30 rpm, 25C = 8 , 6 0 0 c p s [mPas

SOURCE: A q u a l o n D i v i s i o n : H a i r C o n d i t i o n i n g P r o d u c t s w i t h N a t r o s o l H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l ose

164

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Concentrated Hair Repair with UV Protection Ingredients: Phase A : D i methi cone (50-60,000 c s ) Isohexadecane C y c l omet h ic o n e C y c l o m e t h i c o n e and D i m e t h i c o n o l and D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l OSW 1 2 ) D i m e t h i c o n e / S o d i u m PG-Propyl D i m e t h i c o n e T h i o s u l f a t e Copolymer ( A b i l S 2 0 1 ) P h e n y l T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 2 0 ) O c t y l M e t h o x y c i nnamate Propylparaben

Weight% 15.00 29.65 15.00 25.00 1 .oo 5.00 1 .oo 0.10

Phase 0: Q u a t e r n i u m - 8 0 ( A b i l Quat 3474) Ethanol Denatured Methyl Gluceth-20

0.75 4.00 3.50

Procedure: 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o g e t h e r i n o r d e r shown. M i x u n t i l f u l l y dispersed. 2 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase 6 t o g e t h e r . M i x w e l l . 3 . Add B t o A . M i x w e l l . A v o i d a i r e n t r a p m e n t . Iridescent Hair Gel Concentrate Ingredients:

Weight%

Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol (and) Dimethicone ( A b i 1 OSW-12) P h e n y l T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV-20) P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l H e x y l ene G1 y c o l Water P r e s e r v a t iv e s P o l y a c r y l a m i d e ( a n d ) C13-14 I s o p a r a f f i n ( a n d ) L a u r e t h 7

27.27 4.55 40.93 4.55 20.45 Q.S. 2.25

Procedure: Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l between a d d i t i o n s . When a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e combined, c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r and ir i d e s c e n t .

SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Chemi c a l Co. : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i ons

Hair Care Products

165

Conditioner for Dry Brittle Hair Phase : A A A

B B

B B

C

Ingredient: D e i o n i z e d Water Guar Hyd. P r o p y l T r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e Quaternium-76 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t . G1 y c o l S t e a r a t e Cetyl Alcohol M y r j 5 2 s (PEG-40 S t e a r a t e ) O i l s o f Aloha Kukui Nut O i l Preservative

WtO/o 88.20 0.80 6.00 2.00 0.50 1.50 1 .oo QS

Manufacturing Procedure: Phase A : D i s p e r s e Guar i n w a t e r w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 65C. Phase 6: Combine f a t t y components and add t o w a t e r p h a s e . C o o l t o 40C. Phase C : Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s . pH: 5 . 0 The p r i m a r y c o n d i t i o n e r s a r e Guar h y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m c h l o r i d e and t h e Q u a t e r n i u m - 7 6 H y d r o l y z e d A n i m a l P r o t e i n . E m u l s i f i e r i s t h e M y r j 5 2 s . K u k u i N u t O i l (Macadamia N u t c o u l d b e u s e d ) p r o v i d e s a g l o s s i n g a g e n t f o r d r y h a i r and r e p l a c e s t h e n a t u r a l o i l s l o s t i n shampooing.

SOURCE: O i 1 s o f A l o h a : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n Hair Styling Gel

A: D e i o n i z e d Water Carbomer 940 B: D e i o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i ne ( 9 9 % ) L: V i n y l c a p r o l actam/PVP/Di m e t h y l ami n o e t h y l m e t h a c r y l a t e Copolymer D: S i l i c o n e Q u a t e r n i u m - 5 ( P e c o s i l SMQ-40) E: Methylchloroisothiazolinone ( a n d ) M e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e

Wt% 85.95 1 .oo

3.00 1 .oo

7.50 1.50 0.05

Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n Phase A w a t e r . When a u n i f o r m d i s p e r s i o n i s o b t a i n e d , add Phase B t o Phase A . S l o w l y sweep i n Phase C , Phase D and Phase E u n t i l a u n i f o r m g e l i s o b t a i n e d .

SOURCE : Phoeni x Chemi c a l

,

I n c . : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t i on

166

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioning Perm Formula: O i l Phase: C r o d a c o l C-95 Crodafos NlON Volpo s-2 Carnation Mineral O i 1 (Wi tco) W h i t e P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m ( W i t c o ) S t e a r i c A c i d XXX Water Phase: V o l p o s-10 Croquat M P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l U . S . P . Hampol OL C r y s t a l s ( L o w e n s t e i n ) Germaben I 1 Water, D e i o n i z e d Ammoni um T h i o g l y c o l a t e ( 6 0 % ) Ammoni u m H y d r o x i de (29%)

% by W e i g h t

2.00 1 .50 0.50 13.00 1 1 -50 8.00 2.50 1 .oo 2.00 0.75 1.oo 42.62 9.00 4.63

Procedure: H e a t o i l p h a s e t o 80C; h e a t w a t e r p h a s e t o 80-85C. Add w a t e r t o o i l s u n d e r good a g i t a t i o n . A d j u s t ammonium t h i o g l y c o l a t e w i t h ammonium h y d r o x i d e , c o o l e m u l s i o n t o 45C t h e n add t o ammonium t h i o g l y c o l a t e s o l u t i o n . F i l l o f f .

Scalp and Hair Conditioner Formula: Emerest 1723 Emerest 2316 White Protopet 1s Petrolatum (Witco) Emsorb 2500 Emerwax 1266 E m e r e s t 2486 Fragrance

% by Wei g h t

20.5 14.5 47.0 6.5 10.5 1.o q.s.

Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 85-9OC w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 65C w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . P e r f u m e and p a c k a g e .

SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products

167

Conditioning Styling Mousse T h i s mousse h a s e x c e l l e n t c o n d i t i o n i n g p r o p e r t i e s and s u p e r i o r wet combing w i t h a n a t u r a l f e e l .

I n g r ed ie n t s : C e l q u a t L-200 PEG-36 C a s t o r O i l Col 1ami no Compl ex 40 Arquad T-50 P r e s e r v a t iv e Fragrance A n h y d r o u s E t h a n o l , SDA .40 D i s t i l l e d Water P r o p e l 1 a n t A-46

P a r t s b y Wei Q h t 1 .oo 0.10 0.10 0.10 q.s q.s 15.00 73.70 10.00

Procedure: S l o w l y s i f t C e l q u a t L-200 i n t o d i s t i l l e d w a t e r w h i l e m i x i n g . When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n c o n c e n t r a t e . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l . I n s t r u c t i o n s f o r Use: Shampoo, r i n s e , and t o w e l d r y h a i r . Shake c a n w e l l , i n v e r t and p r e s s b u t t o n t o d i s p e n s e e g g - s i z e d amount o f foam i n t o p a l m o f h a n d . A d j u s t amount d e p e n d i n g o n h a i r l e n g t h and amount o f c o n t r o l d e s i r e d . Massage e v e n l y t h r o u g h h a i r . Do n o t r i n s e . S t y l e h a i r as d e s i r e d . F o r m u l a t i o n N o. 5231 -32

Thermal Mousse T h i s a l c o h o l - f r e e c o n d i t i o n i n g mousse h a s s u p e r i o r w e t c o m b i n g , a d d s b o d y t o h a i r , and has good f i x a t i v e p r o p e r t i e s . Ingredients: A ) C e l q u a t L-200 DC 929 S i l i c o n e T r i t o n X-100 d l Panthenol Crotein Q Germaben I 1 Dei o n i z e d W a t e r E ) P r o p e l l a n t A-46

P a r t s by Weight 3.00 0.30 0.30 0.10 0.20 1.00 85.10 10.00

Preparation: D i s s o l v e t h e C e l q u a t L-200 i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e . C h a r g e c a n s w i t h p r o p e l l a n t Formul a t ion No. 7879 : H102B

SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and C h e m i c a l Co. : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

168

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cream Conditioner Inqredi ents: Wei q h t % Phase A : Water 85.45 0.30 Sodium C h l o r i d e S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l ami ne (Tego Amid S 1 8 ) 1.50 C i t r i c A c i d Monohydrate 0.60 M e t h y l Paraben 0.20 1.25 Mineral O i l Cyclomethicone 3.50 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e S.E. ( T e g i n ) 3.00 Ceteth-2 1.50 Cetyl Alcohol 0.50 C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9 8 0 1 ) 0.35 Phase B : P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 1.oo Q u a t e r n i um-80 ( A b i 1 Quat 3270) 0.25 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 8852) 0.50 Phase C: P r o p y l Paraben 0.10 Perfume Q.S. Color Q.S. Procedure: 1 . H e a t t h e w a t e r t o 70-80C. 2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A i n d e s c e n d i n g o r d e r . M i x . 3 . B e g i n a m b i e n t c o o l i n g o f b a t c h . Add p r e - m i x e d m a t e r i a l s o f Phase B t o r e a c t o r . Homogenize. 4 . Add m a t e r i a l o f Phase C a t 40C w i t h sweep m i x e r . D i s p e n s e a t 35C. Conditioning Rinse (Cold Process) Innredi ents: Weight% Phase A : G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r e t h - 4 (Tego P e a r l N 100) 3.0 Q u a t e r n i urn-80 ( A b i 1 Quat 3272) 0.4 Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i ne F ) 2.5 Fragrance Q.S. Water 40.9 G1 y c e r i n 1.5 Phase B : Water 50.0 H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l ose 1.5 Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e 0.2 P r e s e r v a t iv e s Q.S. Phase C : C i t r i c Acid t o pH 4 . 0 Procedure: 1 . M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A , 2 . Add t h e w a t e r o f Phase B t o a t a n k . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e s . M i x u n t i l c l e a r . D i s p e r s e H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e and Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i r n o n i u m C h l o r i d e . M i x u n t i l f u l l y d i s p e r s e d and v i s c o s i t y i n c r e a s e s . 3 . Add Phase B t o Phase A . M i x . 4 . Adjust p H t o 4.0 w i t h C i t r i c Acid. SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Chemi c a l C o r p , : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t i o n s

Hair Care Products

169

Cream Curl Activator Formul a : A: D e i o n i z e d Water Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e Triethanolamine Panthenol H y d r o l y z e d S i 1k P r o t e i n Q u a t e r n i um-1 5 B: Macol CPS S o l u l a n 16 B l a n d o l M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) Masil 656 F l u i d M a s i l SF-V F l u i d M a s i l 280 C: C i t r i c A c i d 50% Fragrance

_% b y Weight. 80.43 0.20 0.02 1 .oo 1.oo 0.30 6.00 1 .oo 2.00 3.00 3.00 2.00 0.05 q.s.

Procedure: D i s p e r s e h y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t h e w a t e r , add TEA t o i n i t i a t e h y d r a t i o n . A f t e r 20 m i n s . add r e m a i n i n g A i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t to 55C and s t i r . S e p a r a t e l y b l e n d B and h e a t t o 55C. Add B t o A , m a i n t a i n a g i t a t i o n w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C. A d j u s t pH and add f r a g r a n c e . Hair Pomade Formula: W h i t e P r o t o p e t 1s ( W i t c o ) 61 a n d o l M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) Oh1 an H y d r o x y l a t e d L a n o l i n Kessco PEG 400 D i l a u r a t e P a r a f f i n Wax Isopropyl Myri s t a t e Perfume and C o l o r

__.___

.-bYA!!!ei&T 28.0 30.0 27.0 8.0 6.0 1.o q*s

Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t t o 80C w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m and c l e a r , Cool w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 40C.

SOURCE:

W i t c o C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

170

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cream Rinse Conditioner T h i s cream r i n s e f o r m u l a f e a t u r e s C r o d a f o s CES, t o g e t h e r w i t h a c a t i o n i c c o n d i t i o n e r , I n c r o q u a t B E S - 3 5 s . By i t s a b i l i t y t o p r o m o t e f a s t r e l e a s e o f o i l s and c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t s t o t h e h a i r and i t s c o m p a t i b i l i t y w i t h q u a t e r n a r y c o n d i t i o n e r s , C r o d a f o s CES e n a b l e s t h i s cream r i n s e t o p r o v i d e enhanced c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s . The i n c r e a s e d sheen, s i l k i e r , s o f t e r f e e l , and i m p r o v e d texture t h e h a i r acquires i s the r e s u l t o f the quick delivery o f t h e Crodamol e s t e r s , Super R e f i n e d Wheat Germ O i l and I n c r o q u a t 8ES-35S b y C r o d a f o s CES. Because C r o d a f o s CES a l s o i m p r o v e s i t s a p p l i c a t i o n properties, t h e product rinses out extremely e a s i l y w i t h o u t i n c i d e n c e o f d r a g o r a waxy d e p o s i t . Ingredients: Part A: C r o d a f o s CES ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r y l P h o s p h a t e ) I n c r o q u a t BES-35s (Behenamidopropylethyldimonium E t h o s u l f a t e (and) S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) C r o d a c o l CS-50 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) Super R e f i n e d Wheat Germ O i l Crodamol OS ( O c t y l S t e a r a t e ) Crodamol OPG ( O c t y l P e l a r g o n a t e ) P a r t B: Dei o n i zed Water TEA 99% P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) M e t h y l P a r a b e n ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben

5 6.0 1.5 1.5 2.0 2.0 2.0 83.65 0.35 1.o

pH=5.5+-0.5

Viscosity=16,000cps+-lO%, ( S p i n d l e TD @ 10RPM @ 25C) Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-80C. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-8OC. Add P a r t 0 t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l temperature. N . A . T . C . Approved

SOURCE: Croda I n c . :

F o r m u l a t i o n HP-180

Hair Cure Products

171

Cream Rinse Conditioner T h i s cream r i n s e f o r m u l a f e a t u r e s C r o d a f o s CES, t o g e t h e r w i t h a c a t i o n i c c o n d i t i o n e r , I n c r o q u a t CTC-30. By i t s a b i l i t y t o p r o m o t e f a s t r e l e a s e o f o i l s and c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t s t o t h e h a i r and i t s c o m p a t i b i l i t y w i t h q u a t e r n a r y c o n d i t i o n e r s , C r o d a f o s CES e n a b l e s t h i s cream r i n s e t o p r o v i d e enhanced c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s . The i n c r e a s e d sheen, s i l k i e r , s o f t e r f e e l , and i m p r o v e d t e x t u r e t h e h a i r a c q u i r e s i s t h e r e s u l t o f t h e q u i c k d e l i v e r y o f t h e Crodamol e s t e r s , Super R e f i n e d Wheat Germ O i l and I n c r o q u a t CTC-30 b y C r o d a f o s CES. Because C r o d a f o s CES a l s o i m p r o v e s i t s a p p l i c a t i o n p r o p e r t i e s , t h e product r i n s e s o u t extremely e a s i l y w i t h o u t incidence o f drag o r a waxy d e p o s i t .

In g r e d i e n t s : Part A: C r o d a f o s CES ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r y l P h o s p h a t e ) C r o d a c o l CS-50 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) Super R e f i n e d Wheat Germ O i 1 Crodamol OS ( O c t y l S t e a r a t e ) Crodamol OPG ( O c t y l P e l a r g o n a t e ) P a r t 9: Dei o n i zed Water I n c r o q u a t CTC-30 TEA 99%

Wt% 6.0 1.5 2.0

2.0 2.0

83.65 (Cetrimonium C h l o r i d e )

1.5

0.35

Part C: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben

1.o

pH=5.5+-0.5

Viscosity=18,500cps+-lO% ( S p i n d l e TD @ 10 RPM @ 25C) Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-8OC. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t 0 w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-8OC. Add P a r t 0 t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add P a r t C whi 1 e m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i1 1 t e m p e r a t u r e . N.A.T.C. Approved

SOURCE: Croda I n c . :

F o r m u l a t i o n HP-181

172

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cream Rinse Conditioner T h i s c r e a m r i n s e f o r m u l a f e a t u r e s C r o d a f o s CES, a c o n d t i o n i n g and e m u l s i f y i n g s y s t e m f r o m C r o d a , t o g e t h e r w i t h a c a t i o n c c o n d i t i o n e r , I n c r o q u a t CTC-30. By i t s a b i l i t y t o p r o m o t e a s t r e l e a s e o f o i l s and c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t s t o t h e h a i r and i t s c o m p a t i b i l i t y w i t h q u a t e r n a r y c o n d i t i o n e r s , C r o d a f o s CES e n a b l e s t h i s c r e a m r i n s e t o p r o v i d e enhanced c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s . I n c r e a s e d sheen, s i l k i e r , s o f t e r f e e l , and i m p r o v e d t e x t u r e . The p r o d u c t r i n s e s o u t e x t r e m e l y e a s i l y w i t h o u t i n c i d e n c e o f d r a g o r a waxy d e p o s i t . Ingredients: Wei n h t % Part A: C r o d a f o s CES ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r y l P h o s p h a t e ) 6.0 C r o d a c o l CS-50 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1.5 S u p e r R e f i n e d Wheat Germ O i 1 (Wheat Germ O i 1 ) 2.0 Crodamol OS ( O c t y l S t e a r a t e ) 2.0 Crodamol OPG ( O c t y l P e l a r g o n a t e ) 2.0 Part 0: Dei o n i zed Water I n c r o q u a t CTC-30 TEA 99%

83.65 (Cetrimonium C h l o r i d e )

1.50 0.35

P a r t C: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) M e t h y l P a r a b e n ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben

1

.oo

pH=5.5+-0.5

Viscosity=18,500cps+-lO% ( S p i n d l e TD @ 1 0 RPM (3 25C) Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-80C Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t 6 w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-80C. Add P a r t 0 t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add P a r t C w h i l e m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e . N . A . T .C . Approved SOURCE: C r o d a I n c . :

F o r m u l a t i o n HP-181

Hair Care Products

173

Creme Rinse Conditioner for Color-Treated and Permed Hair (Formula 89-1202) This s p e c i a l l y formulated conditioner gently conditions t h e h a i r o n l y where i t i s needed a n d h e l p s p r o t e c t and r e s t o r e damaged, o r c h e m i c a l l y t r e a t e d h a i r . % by W e i g h t Water 91.5 M i r a c a r e CT-100 3.5 1.5 C e t y l A l c o h o l , N.F. D L - P a n t h e n o l (Roche) 0.5 H y d r o 1 y z e d A n i mal P r o t e i n (Hormel P e p t e i n 2000) 3.0 C i t r i c Acid Q . S . t o pH 4 - 4 . 5

B1 e n d i ng P r o c e d u r e : 1 . Heat w a t e r t o 75C. 2 . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r listed. 3 . A d j u s t pH o f s y s t e m t o 4 . 0 - 4 . 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d , as needed. 4 . C o o l t o 40-45C and add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e ( s ) and p r e s e r v a t iv e . Typical Formulation Properties: A p p e a r a n c e (3 25C: V i s c o u s , opaque l i q u i d pH: 8.5-10.0 % Non V o l a t i l e s : 4 . 0 - 4 . 5 SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : f o r P e r s o n a l Care

Formulation

Jojoba Mousse Ingredients: ( A ) : W a t e r D.I. C e l q u s t H-100

(6): Polawax A-31 Jojoba O i l PVP ( K - 3 0 )

(C):

SDA-40B (Reg) G1 y d a n t Perfume

% by W e i g h t

80.0 0.5

7.5 1 .o 1.5 15.2 0.2 0.1

Manufacturing Directions: (1) S t i r A till clear solution. ( 2 ) Add B and h e a t and s t i r t i l l d i s s o l v e d . ( 3 ) Cool and add C pH-4 A e r o s o l F i l l : 85% o f above c o n c e n t r a t e / l 5 % o f A-46 P r o p e l l e n t Suppliers: L i n e d P e e r l e s s Mousse c o n t a i n e r s Cans Valves P r e c i s i o n V a l u e Mousse v a l v e s and s p o u t s OSURCE: F r a n k 8 . Ross C o . , I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

-

-

174

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Detangling Creme Rinse N-Hance 3000 c a t i o n i c g u a r p r o v i d e s w e t and d r y c o m b a b i l i t y t o t h i s f l o w a b l e , opaque, a f t e r - s h a m p o o r i n s e f o r h a i r d e t a n g l i n g and c o n d i t io n i n g . T h i s p r o d u c t w i 11 a1 so in c r e a s e h a i r s o f t n e s s and r e d u c e f l y - a w a y . The c y c l o m e t h i c o n e c o n t r i b u t e s g l o s s a n d a d d s p r o t e c t i o n a g a i n s t damage f r o m h e a t s t y l i n g . W i t h N-Hance, t h e v i s c o s i t y i s 2,000 c p s and t h e p H = 5 . 2 . W i t h o u t N-Hance, t h e f o r m u l a t i o n i s w a t e r - t h i n and e x p e r i e n c e s p h a s e s e p a r a t i o n . Insredient: Aqueous Phase: D i s t i l l e d water N-Hance 3000 c a t i o n i c g u a r C e t r i m o n i u m c h l o r i d e (25% a c t i v e ) C i t r i c a c i d (50% s o l u t i o n )

O i l Phase: Cetyl alcohol Cy cl omethi cone S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l d i m e t h y l ami ne G1 y c e r y l s t e a r a t e P o l y s o r b a t e 80 Propylene g l y c o l (and) d i a z o l i d i n y l u r e a (and) methylparaben (and) propylparaben

Wt% 9,s.

t o 100.00 1.oo 4.00 0.35 1.50 1.50 0.70 0.60 0.40 0.75

Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e N-Hance 3 0 0 0 c a t i o n i c g u a r b y a d d i n g i t t o t h e v o r t e x o f w e l l - a g i t a t e d w a t e r . Add t h e c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n , w h i c h p r o m o t e s h y d r a t i o n o f t h e N-Hance and n e u t r a l i z e s t h e s t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l d i m e t h y l a m i n e . As e l e v a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e i s needed t o f o r m t h e e m u l s i o n , s t a r t h e a t i n g t o 65C. M i x u n t i l t h e polymer i s f u l l y d i s s o l v e d . 2 . Add t h e c e t r i m o n i u m c h l o r i d e and m i x w e l l . 3 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , combine t h e o i l - p h a s e i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat t o 65C. 4 . Add t h e aqueous-phase i n g r e d i e n t s t o t h e o i l - p h a s e i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . T u r n o f f h e a t b u t c o n t i n u e m i x i n g . 5 . When a t 40C o r b e l o w , add p r e s e r v a t i v e s and f r a g r a n c e .

SOURCE: A q u a l o n D i v i s i o n : N-Hance 3000 C a t i o n i c G u a r : F o r m u l a t i o n

Hair Care Products

175

Easy Spreading Mousse T h i s mousse c o n t a i n s Dow C o r n i n g 193 s u r f a c t a n t t o p l a s t i c i z e t h e G a n t r e z r e s i n and t o enhance t h e s p r e a d a b i l i t y o f t h e r e s i n on t h e h a i r . Dow C o r n i n g 193 s u r f a c t a n t a l s o a s s i s t s i n foam b u i l d i n g and foam s t a b i l i t y . Inaredients : Dow C o r n i n g 193 G a n t r e z ES-225 AMP-95 Water SD A l c o h o l 40 P r o p e l 1 a n t A-46

% bv Weight

0.50 5.00 0.20 74.30 10.00 10.00

Procedure: Add t h e AMP-95 t o t h e e t h a n o l . S t i r i n t h e G a n t r e z . Add Dow C o r n i n g 193 s u r f a c t a n t t o t h e w a t e r . S t i r t h e w a t e r m i x t u r e i n t o t h e e t h a n o l m i x t u r e . Add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e , i f desi red. Aerosol F i l l i n g : Load t h e c o n c e n t r a t e (90% b y w e i g h t ) and f i l l w i t h A-46 h y d r o c a r b o n p r o p e l l a n t (10% b y w e i g h t ) . S t a b i 1 it y : The s t a b i l i t y o f t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n h a s n o t been a s s e s s e d . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0364 s u g g e s t e d b y Dow C o r n i n g C o r p . ( E 2 - 5 2 8 4 ) Gantrez Hair Spray with Cyclomethicone T h i s h a i r spray c o n t a i n s s i l i c o n e c y c l i c s , which p l a s t i c i z e t h e r e s i n . The c y c l i c s g i v e i m p r o v e d c u r l r e t e n t i o n when compared w i t h t h e same f o r m u l a t i o n w i t h o u t c y c l i c s . T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n shows how s i l i c o n e c y c l i c s c a n b e u s e d i n G a n t r e z - b a s e d h a i r sprays. Ingredients: Dow C o r n i n g 345 F l u i d G a n t r e z ES-425 AMP-Regul a r SD A l c o h o l 40 P r o p e l 1 a n t A-46

% byWeight 1 .oo 7.60 0.16 71.24 20.00

Procedure: Weigh o u t t h e a l c o h o l and d i s s o l v e t h e AMP i n t o i t . S t i r i n t h e G a n t r e z . Add t h e Dow C o r n i n g 345 f l u i d . Add f r a g r a n c e i f d e s i r e d . Dow C o r n i n g 344 f l u i d c a n be s u b s t i t u t e d f o r Dow C o r n i n g 345 f l u i d . Aerosol F i 11 ing : Load t h e c o n c e n t r a t e (80% b y w e i g h t ) and f i l l w i t h A-46 h y d r o c a r b o n p r o p e l l a n t (20% b y w e i g h t ) . S t a b i 1 it y : The s t a b i l i t y o f t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n h a s n o t been a s s e s s e d . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0365 s u g g e s t e d b y Dow C o r n i n g C o r p . ( E 2 - 5 2 7 3 ) SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l C o . : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

176

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Elegant Touch Strong Hold, 80% VOC Hair Spray % by Weight 40.00 0.30 0.10 1 .oo 0.10 0.23 1.47

Ingredients: SD A l c o h o l 40, 200 p r o o f D - P a n t h e n o l USP L u v i q u a t Mono CP L u v i s k o l VA 73 W U v i n u l MC 80 Dow C o r n i n g Q2-5220 AMP R e g u l a r

A.

16.70

B.

L u v i m e r 36D

C.

Fragrance

D.

Dimethyl Ether

0.10 40.00

Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n p h a s e A . Add B t o A a n d m i x w e l l . Add C t o AB. F i l l i n t o appropriate containers w i t h propellant. F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0393 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF (SG1085/1A) Acudyne 255 Spray Gel Formulation % by Weight

Ingredients: A . Water Ethanol D i s o d i um EDTA AMP-95 K a t h o n CG C i t r o f 1e x - 2 Acudyne 255 (41%)

79.94 6.00 0.10 0.62 0.04 0.10 10.00

B. A c u l y n 22

3.20

Procedure: Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f p h a s e A i n o r d e r l i s t e d . S t i r u n t i l c l e a r , add p h a s e B . S t i r u n t i l t h i c k e n e d . Physical Characteristics: V i s c o s i t y ( # 4 (3 60 r p m ) : 400 c p s F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0392 s u g g e s t e d b y Rohm & Haas C o . SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l C o . :

Product Formulary

(PF-022b)

Hair Care Products

177

Extra-Hold Conditioning Mousse Ingredients: Amphomer AMP-95 Amodimethicone (and) nonoxynol-10 t r imon ium c h 1o r id e Phosphol i p i d EFA Alcohol, denatured Water

% by Weight 3.75 0.60

A.

(and) t a l l o w -

B. H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l ose

0.40 0.60 10.00 37.35 0.30

C . Water

37.00

D. P r o p e l 1a n t

10.00

Procedure: Combine A . C a r e f u l l y s p r i n k l e B i n C w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . H e a t i n g may h e l p s o l u b i l i z a t i o n . B l e n d BC i n A . P r e s s u r i z e w i t h D F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0370

s u g g e s t e d b y Angus/Mona De-Frizzing Creme-Gel % by Weight

Ingredients: Deionized water D-Panthenol 5 0 P AMP-95 L u v i m e r 36 D

89.45 1.00 0.25 2.80

A.

2.00 4.00

B. L u v i t o l EHO S e p i g e l 305 C.

N i p a g u a r d DMDMH

D.

Fragrance

0.50 q.s.

Procedure: Combine p h a s e A i n o r d e r l i s t e d w h i l e m i x i n g . Combine p h a s e B. Add B t o A u n d e r p r o p e l l e r m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m e m u l s i o n i s formed. Add C and D t o AB and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0395 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF (ND547/2)

SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l

Co. : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

178

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Firm Holding Mousse (Alcohol F r e e ) Inqredients: Wei n h t % Phase A : Water 43.80 0.10 T e t r a s o d i um EDTA O c t y l a c r y l ami d e / A c r y l a t e s / B u t y l ami n o e t h y l M e t h a c r y l a t e 3.75 Copolymer 0.65 Ami nomethyl Propanol 0.20 Octoxynol-9 Q u a t e r n i um-80 ( A b i 1 Quat 3 2 7 2 ) 0.25 0.40 Dimethicone C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne (Tego B e t a i n e E ) 0.25 0.20 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) Sodium PCA ( a n d ) G l y c i n e ( a n d ) F r u c t o s e ( a n d ) Urea (and) N i a c i n a m i d e (and) I n o s i t o l and Sodium B e n z o a t e ( a n d ) L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l ) 0.20 Pant hanol 0.20 Preservatives Q.S. Fragrance Q.S. Phase B : Hydroxyethyl Cellulose 3.00 Water 37.00 Phase C : P r o p e l 1 a n t A-46 10.00 Procedure: 1 . M i x i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . 2 . D i s p e r s e t h e H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e i n t o t h e w a t e r o f Phase B Mix u n t i l c l e a r . 3 . Combine Phases A / B . F i l t e r . 4. F i l l . 5 . Charge P r o p e l 1 a n t . Spray Hair Conditioner Ingredients: Weight% Water 91-10 Q.S. P r e s e r v a t ives P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 3.00 G1 y c e r i n 2.50 Q u a t e r n i u m - 8 0 ( A b i l Quat 3 2 7 2 ) 0.35 Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) Sodium PCA ( a n d ) G l y c i n e ( a n d ) F r u c t o s e (and) Urea (and) N i a c i n a m i d e (and) I n o s i t o l 0.25 ( a n d ) Sodium B e n z o a t e ( a n d ) L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l ) C i t r i c Acid 0.20 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i 1 B 8851) 0.60 PEG-30 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e ( T a g a t 0) 2.00 Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: Combi ne i n g r e d i e n t s in o r d e r , m i x i ng we1 1 b e t w e e n a d d i t i o n s .

SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products

179

Glossing Hair Conditioner T h i s c o n d i t i o n e r p r o v i d e s e x c e p t i o n a l h a i r c o n t r o l , w e t and d r y c o m b a b i l i t y , and g i v e s a s o f t g l o s s t o t h e h a i r . Weight% Ingredients : Phase A : Water 91.25 C i t r i c Acid 0.50 Phase 8: S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l ami ne (Tego Amid S 1 8 ) 1.25 3.00 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e S.E. ( T e g i n ) Ceteth-2 1 .50 Behenoxy D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 Wax 2 4 4 0 ) 0.35 Phase C : P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 0.90 Q u a t e r n i um-80 ( A b i 1 Quat 3 2 7 2 ) 0.40 Phase D : Dimethicone Copolyol (Abi 1 B 8851) 0.25 Sodium C h l o r i d e - 25% aqueous s o l u t i o n 0.60 Phase E : Color, Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q.S. Procedure: 1 . H e a t t h e w a t e r t o 70C. Add and d i s p e r s e t h e C i t r i c A c i d . 2 . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o Phase A, one a t a t i m e , m i x i n g b e t w e e n a d d i t i o n s . A f t e r a l l a d d i t i o n s a r e made, m i x u n t i l homogeneous. 3 . Cool b a t c h t o 40C. M i x Phase C and add t o A / B . Use sweep mixer 4 . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m u s i n g sweep mixer

. .

Acidic Hair Rinse G i v e s permed and d y e d h a i r a s o f t smooth t a c t i l e f e e l and g l o s s . Ingredients: Wei q h t % Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 M e t h y l g l u c o s e D i s t e a r a t e (Tego C a r e 4 5 0 ) 4.0 Phase 0 : Water 73.8 Glycerin 2.0 C i t r i c A c i d (10%) 0.2 Phase C : H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( 2 . 5 % aqueous s o l u t i o n ) * 20.0 Phase D: Perfume Q.S. P r e s e r v a t iv e Q.S. * N a t r o s o l 250 HR Procedure: 1 . H e a t Phase A and B t o 70C, s t i r B i n t o A and homogenize. 2 . Add t h e H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e and homogenize a g a i n . S t i r u n t i l t h e emulsion i s cool (30C). 3 . The p e r f u m e i s added a t 30C. SOURCE : Go1 dschmi d t C h e m i c a l C o r p , : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t ions

180

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Conditioner Formul a t i ng D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s f o r m u l a i n c o r p o r a t e s a m i x t u r e o f amino a c i d s f r o m t h e S i 1 k ' n S o l u b l e L i q u i d (Dacso) These amino a c i d s h a v e a good a f f i n i t y f o r h a i r , e s p e c i a l l y when b l e a c h e d and damaged, l e a v i n g y o u r h a i r smooth and s i l k y .

.

W a t e r Phase I : Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) B u t y l e n e G1 y c o l ( H o e c h s t ) G1 y c e r i ne ( U n i chema) S i l k ' n S o l u b l e L i q u i d (Dasco) C e l l o s i ze ( H e r c u l e s ) Methylparaben ( S u t t o n )

y s 64.0 4.0 2.0 0.3 0.3 0.3

O i l Phase: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) Minosil (Pride Solvents) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel ) Amerchol L 101 ( A m e r c h o l ) V i t a m i n E ( P h i b r o Chem) Propylparaben (Sutton) W a t e r Phase 1 1 : Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow)

3.5 3.5 2.0 1.5 0.5 0.1 17.0 1.o

Procedure: H e a t t h e w a t e r p h a s e I t o 75C u n d e r a g i t a t i o n e n s u r i n g t h a t t h e e n t i r e p h a s e i s s o l u b i l i z e d . M e l t and m i x t h e o i l phase u n t i l homogeneous and a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C i s m a i n t a i n e d . S l o w l y add t h e w a t e r p h a s e I t o t h e o i l p h a s e u n d e r m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 55C and add w a t e r phase 11. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l u n t i l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : O t h e r a c t i v e compounds and c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t s a r e e a s i l y introduced i n t o t h i s type o f formula. Consistency i s e a s i l y i n c r e a s e d by u s i n g a g r e a t e r c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f Cera B e l l i n a . T h i s w i 11 a1 so combi ne t o i n c r e a s e t h e c o n d i t i o n i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f the product.

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen,

I n c . : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g

Hair Care Products

181

Hair Conditioner with DLL Quanti t i S t a q e M a t e r i a1 :. O i l Phase: 1 P r o c o l CS-20 D 2 * ooog 2 AEC C h e r r y P i t O i l 0.5009 Aqueous Phase: 3 Water; Pure 87.8509 4 N a t r o s o l 250 HR 0,5009 5 AEC D i m e t h i c o n e ( a ) L a u r e t h - 4 ( & ) L a u r e t h - 2 3 2 . ooog 6 AEC D i c e t y l d i r n o n i u m C h l o r i d e 3 . OOOg 7 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP 3 . OOOg 8 Germaben 11-E 0.5009 Cooling Cycle: 9 D - P a n t h e n o l 75% 0.500g 10 F r a g r a n c e ; C h e r r y AG6330 0.150g 11 C o l o u r s a s r e q u i r e d 9 Mixing Instructions: D i s p e r s e t h e H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e i n w a t e r and b r i n g t o 70C w h i l e a d d i n g t h e r e m a i n i n g i t e m s o f t h e Aqueous Phase. S e p a r a t e l y h e a t t h e O i l Phase t o 70C and w i t h h i g h s h e a r m i x i n g add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Aqueous, m i x b r i e f l y t h e n s t i r until cool. Add P a n t h e n o l and f r a g r a n c e and a d j u s t t h e pH t o 5 . 0 - 5 . 5 w i t h c i t r i c o r phosphoric acid. C o l o u r as r e q u i r e d . T h i s s i m p l e f o r m u l a may b e r e a d i l y a d a p t e d t o t a k e h e r b a l a d d i t i v e s , s o l u b l e p r o t e i n s and o t h e r a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s . P r o j e c t : J W 2390/Formul a R e f . : 81 7*2 ~~

Hair Conditioner with DLL

St~3S_!!!a_t_er.iia.1.:

Qua.r-ti t y O i l Phase: 1 Cetearyl Alcohol 3 . OOOg 2 Emulgade 1000 N I 1.5009 Aqueous Phase: 3 Water; Pure 91 , 7 0 0 g 4 N a t r o s o l 250 HR 1 .ooog 5 AEC D i m e t h i c o n e ( & ) L a u r e t h - 4 ( a ) L a u r e t h - 2 3 2 . ooog 6 Germaben 11-E 0.5009 Cool i ng C y c l e : 7 P . A G 9960 F r u i t y F l o r a l f o r h a i r 0.150g 8 Phosphoric A c i d 0.15Og 9 Colours as required 9 Mixing Instructions: D i s p e r s e t h e H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e i n w a t e r and b r i n g t o 70C. S e p a r a t e l y h e a t t h e O i l Phase t o 70C and w i t h h i g h s h e a r m i x i n g add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Aqueous, m i x b r i e f l y t h e n s t i r u n t i l cool. Add F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e and c o l o u r a s r e q u i r e d and a d j u s t t h e pH t o 5 . 0 - 5 . 5 . T h i s s i m p l e f o r m u l a may be r e a d i l y a d a p t e d t o t a k e h e r b a l a d d i t i v e s , s o l u b l e p r o t e i n s and o t h e r a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s a s requi red. P r o j e c t JW 2 3 9 0 / F o r m u l a R e f . : 815*2 SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d , : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

182

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Conditioner with DLL M a t e r i a1 : Water; P u r e AEC D i c e t y l d i m o n i um C h l o r i d e P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l USP AEC D i m e t h i c o n e ( & ) L a u r e t h - 4 ( & ) L a u r e t h - 2 3 P r o c o l CS-20D D - P a n t h e n o l 75% N a t r o s o l 250 HR AEC C h e r r y P i t O i 1 Germaben 11 - E F r a g r a n c e ; C h e r r y AG6330 C o l o u r s as r e q u i r e d

o/ow/w 87.850 3.000 3.000 2.000 2.000 0.500 0.500 0 500 0.500 0.150 I

F o r m u l a R e f . : 81782

Hot Oil Conditioner with CPO

e

Material : Water, Pure I n c r o q u a t SDQ-25 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l USP Lexami n e S-13 Colours as r e q u i r e d Emulgade 1000 N I AEC C h e r r y P i t O i l N a t r o s o l 250 HR D - P a n t h e n o l 75% Germaben 11-E C i t r i c A c i d BP F r a g r a n c e ; C h e r r y AG6330 Formula R e f . :

85.440 3.000 3.000 2.220 2.000 1 .ooo 1 .ooo 0.750 0.500 0.500

0.440 0.150

816*1

Hair Conditioner with DLL Material : Water; P u r e C e t e a r y l A1 coho1 AEC D i m e t h i c o n e ( & ) L a u r e t h - 4 ( & ) L a u r e t h - 2 3 Emulgade 1000 N I N a t r o s o l 250 HR Germaben 11-E Phosphoric A c i d P . AG 9960 F r u i t y F l o r a l f o r H a i r C o l o u r s as r e q u i r e d Formula R e f . :

815*2

SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

%w/w 91 . 7 0 0 3.000 2.000 1.500 1.000 0.500 0.150 0.150

Hair Cure Products

183

Hair Cream Gel Phase: A A A A A A B B

I n g r e d i e& Ceteareth-12 Ceteareth-20 PEG-7 G1 y c e r y l C o c o a t e O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i l G1 y c e r i ne D e i o n i z e d Water Preservative Perfume

W S 10.00 10.00 10.00 5.00 10.00 54.00

QS

1.oo

M a n u f a c t u r i ng P r o c e d u r e : Phase A : Combine i n g r e d i e n t s a t 95C. Cool t o 40C. Phase B : Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e . Used t o f i r m t h e h a i r and t o g i v e i t a b e a u t i f u l s h e e n .

SOURCE: O i 1 s o f A l o h a : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n Hair Gel Phase# : 1 1 1 1 1

Wt%

Innredients : Dei o n i zed w a t e r G1 y c e r i ne SD 40 A l c o h o l D i s o d i um EDTA C o l o r o n a Bordeaux

18.00 2.00 10.00 0.05 5.00

2

1% C a r b o p o l 941 s o l u t i o n

50.00

3 3

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% Dei o n i zed w a t e r

4

SD 40 A l c o h o l PVP/VA E-735

4

0.75 2.20

10.00 2.00

Procedure: Combi ne p h a s e #1 w i t h p r o p e l 1 e r a g i t a t i o n . When homogeneous, add t h e r e m a i n i n g p h a s e s i n o r d e r .

SOURCE: Rona/EM i n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n EM3-57-2

184

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Repair and Conditioner Ingredients: Weight% Phase A : Water 88.10 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e S.E. ( T e g i n ) 4.00 Mineral O i l 1 .oo Cetyl Alcohol 2.00 P h e n y l T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 AV-20) 0.50 Ceteth-2 1 .oo Phase B : Glycerin 1 .oo Propylene Glycol 1 .oo D i m e t h i c o n e / S o d i um P o l y PG-Propyl D i m e t h i cone 1.00 T h i o s u l f a t e Copolymer ( A b i 1 S 201 ) 0.40 Q u a t e r n i u m - 8 0 ( A b i l Quat 3 2 7 2 ) Phase C : Color Q.S. Preservatives Q.S. Fragrance Q.S. C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n ) t o pH 7 . 2 Procedure: 1 . H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f A t o g e t h e r w i t h m i x i n g t o 70C. 2 . C o o l t o 45-50C. S w i t c h t o sweep m i x e r . 3 . B l e n d B. Add t o A . Sweep m i x . Cool t o 35-40C. 4 . A d j u s t p H . Add C o l o r , F r a g r a n c e and P r e s e r v a t i v e s . Conditioning Hair Rinse far of

Oily Hair

P r o v i d e s r e f a t t i n g , m o i s t u r i z i n g and r e d u c e s s t a t i c f l y - a w a y hair. Soft conditioning.

Ingredients: %w/w Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 M e t h y l g l u c o s e D i s t e a r a t e (Tego C a r e 450) 4.0 Phase B: Water 71 . 5 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i 1 B 8852) 1.o P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 3.0 C i t r i c A c i d (10%) 0.2 Q u a t e r n i u m - 8 0 ( A b i l Quat 3272) 0.3 Phase C : H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( 2 . 5 % aqueous s o l u t i o n ) * 20.0 Phase D : Perfume Q.S. P r e s e r v a t iv e Q.S. * N a t r o s o l 250HR Procedure: 1 . H e a t Phase A and B t o 70C, s t i r B i n t o A and homogenize. 2 Add t h e H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e and homogeni ze a g a i n . S t i r u n t i l t h e emulsion i s cool (30C). 3 . The p e r f u m e i s added a t 30C. I

SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products

185

Hair Shaping Gloss

Fgrrnul!a_:_ Oil Phase: Volpo 10 (Croda) Crodafos N3N (Croda) Crodafos N10N (Croda) Crodamol PTC (Croda) Blandol Mineral O i l (Witco) Parsol MCX Propyl Paraben Aqueous Phase: Volpo S-20 (Croda) Glycerine Propylene Glycol Methyl Paraben Germall 115 Deionized Water Protein Phase: Cromoist HYA (Croda) Kerasol (Croda)

% by Weight 9.00 3.20 2.50 0.80 12.00 0.60 0,15 1.50 9.00 1,40 0.30 0.20 58.85 0.25 0.25

Procedure: Heat o i l phase to 80-85C, heat aqueous phase to 85C. Add aqueous phase to o i l s under good mechanical agitation. Cool to 45C, add proteins. F i l l off.

Conditioning, Setting Gel Fp_rjmjl_aj_ A: Isoceteth-20 Blandol Mineral O i l (Witco) Oleth-2 B: Water Sorbitol Solution, USP Propylene Glycol Soyaethyl Morpholinium Ethosulfate

% by Weight 20.0 11.0 6,0 49.6 7.0 5,0 1.4

Procedure: Heat A and B to 9OC. Add B to A w i t h gentle s t i r r i n g . Cool to 8OC and add make-up water. Stir u n t i l uniform and pour w h i l e still fluid.

SOURCE: Witco Corp,: Suggested Formulations

186

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Straightener Formula;O i l Phase: C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) White Protopet 1s (Witco) Lipowax N I Lipocol C L i p o c o l S-2 W a t e r Phase A : Dei o n i z e d Water L i p o c o l 5-20 L i p o l a n 31 Propylene Glycol (Arco) S i p o n 201-10 ( A l c o l a c ) W a t e r Phase B: L i t h i u m H y d ro x i d e Monohydrate Dei o n i zed W a t e r

% b y Wei q h t

11 - 0 0 11 .oo 16.00 1 .oo

0.50 50.00 1 .50 2.00 2.00 0.25 3.50 1.25

Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o i l phase i n m a i n k e t t l e and h e a t t o 75C. Combine A i n s i d e k e t t l e and h e a t t o 75C, Add A t o O i l Phase a t 75C w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 65C w i t h m i x i n g and s p r i n k l e i n l i t h i u m h y d r o x i d e f r o m 6 . Cool t o 50C and add c o l d w a t e r f r o m B. Cool t o 42C and f i l l . R e d u c i n g L i p o w a x N I l e v e l t o 12% r e s u l t s i n s o f t e r cream. Hair Relaxer ..-______ Formula: A: 61 a n d o l M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) Macol 1 2 4 Cetyl Alcohol PEG-75 L a n o l i n B: Water P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l A v a n e l S-150 C a l c i um H y d r o x i d e

Water Xanthan Gum (Kelco-Merck)

% by Weight

12.0 11 . o 2.0 3.0 28.0 5.0 3.5 10.0 25.0 0.5

Procedure: B l e n d A i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t s l o w l y t o 70C. P r e m i x B and h e a t t o 70C; add s l o w l y t o A w i t h h i g h s h e a r , f o r m i n g t h e e m u l s i o n . P r e m i x C , h e a t i n g t o 55C. When u n i f o r m add t o m a i n b a t c h w i t h h i g h s h e a r . Cool w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g sweep a g i t a t i o n . Package a t 35-4OC. SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s I

Hair Care Products

187

Hair Styling Cream (for dried hair) % by Weight I n q r e d i en& Phase 1 : Lanoceri n 12.00 E s t o l EHP 8.00 C r o d a c o l CS-50 6.00 S t a n d a p o l WAQ-Speci a1 5.00 Petrolatum 5.00 C r o d a c o l C-95 2.00 L i p o c o l C-10 1 .oo Incrocas-40 1 .oo O z o k e r i t e Wax 1 .oo L i p o c o l S-10 0.75 0.50 Carnauba Wax Phase 2 : D i s t i 11 ed W a t e r 40.41 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 4.00 Amp homer 2.00 AMP-95 0.34 Phase 3 : E t h a n o l , SDA-40 10.00 Germaben I 1 1.oo Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n Phase 1 . H e a t t o 80C. Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase 2, e x c e p t f o r Amphomer. W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , h e a t i n g r e d i e n t s t o 60C. S l o w l y s i f t i n Amphomer. B r i n g h e a t t o 80C. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase 1 w i t h i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase 2 . M i x f o r 15 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 50C. Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase 3 . M i x f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s . Pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r . Allow t o c o o l . Formul a t i on PF-0353 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemical Corp. (8334-66)

Resyn Hair Spray with Dimethicone Copolyol

T h i s h a i r s p r a y c o n t a i n s Dow C o r n i n g 193 s u r f a c t a n t w h i c h p l a s t i c i z e s t h e r e s i n . T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n shows how s i l i c o n e g l y c o l s c a n b e u s e d i n Resyn-based h a i r s p r a y s . Dow C o r n i n g Q2-5220 r e s i n m o d i f i e r c a n b e s u b s t i t u t e d f o r Dow C o r n i n g 193 s u r f a c t a n t . I n q r e d i en=; %.&LvgiLsiht Dow C o r n i n g 193 0.50 Resyn 28-3307 3.00 AMP R e g u l a r 0.28 SD A l c o h o l 40 76.22 P r o p e l 1a n t A-46 20.00 Procedure : D i s s o l v e t h e Resyn i n t o t h e e t h a n o l . Add t h e AMP. Add Dow C o r n i n g 193 s u r f a c t a n t . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add f r a g r a n c e i f desi red. A e r o s o l F i 11 i n g : Load t h e c o n c e n t r a t e (80% b y w e i g h t ) and f i l l w i t h A-46 h y d r o c a r b o n p r o p e l l a n t (20% b y w e i g h t ) . S t a b ? 1 it y : The s t a b i l i t y o f t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n h a s n o t been a s s e s s e d . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0363 s u g g e s t e d b y Dow C o r n i n g C o r p . (E2-5285) SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o r p . : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

188

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

High Performance Creme Rinse Conditioner

The d u a l a c t i o n o f t h e C r o d a f o s CES and t h e I n c r o q u a t B e h e n y l TMS i n t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e e x c e l l e n t c o n d i t i o n i n g t o h a i r . Ingredients: Part A: C r o d a f o s CES ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r y l P h o s p h a t e ) I n c r o q u a t B e h e n y l TMS ( B e h e n t r i m o n i u m M e t h o s u l f a t e ( a n d ) C e t e a r y l A1 coho1 ) Propyl paraben V o l p o S-2 ( S t e a r e t h - 2 ) C r o d a c o l C-70 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) Crodamol P T I S ( P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a i s o s t e a r a t e ) Part 0 : Dei o n i z e d W a t e r I n c r o m e c t a n t Lamea ( A c e t a m i d e MEA ( a n d ) L a c t a m i d e MEA) M e t h y l Paraben Part C: TEA 99%

Wt% 6.00 1-00 0.10 0.50 2.00 1.oo 87.98 1-00 0.10 0.32

Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 65-7OC. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 65-70C. Add P a r t 0 t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and add P a r t C . Cool t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e . pH=4.50+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y = 5 6 , 0 0 0 + - 1 0 % (RVT S p i n d l e , #T-D, 1 0 rpm, d 25C) N.A.T.C. Approved SOURCE: C r o d a I n c . :

Formulation HP-178-1 Hair Shine Concentrated Gel

Ingredients: Water A b i l OSW-12 A b i l AV-20 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l H e x y l ene G1 y c o l Preservatives P o l y a c r y l ami de ( a n d ) C1

%w/w

14 I s o p a r a f f i n ( a n d ) L a u r e t h - 7

25.45 27.27 4.55 35.00 4.55 Q.S. 3.18

Procedure: Blend t h e i n g r e d i e n t s together i n t h e order given w i t h mixing. When a1 1 i n g r e d i e n t s a r e combi n e d , c o n t i nue m i x i n g u n t i 1 c l e a r . V i s c o s i t y w i l l develop a f t e r mixing. SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Hair Care Products

189

High Performance 80% VOC Non-Aerosol Hair Spray T h i s h i g h s o l i d s 80% VOC n o n - a e r o s o l h a i r s p r a y c o m b i n e s l o w s o l u t i o n v i s c o s i t y , a f i n e , m i s t y s p r a y and o p t i m a l d r y i n g t i m e w i t h a h a r d h o l d and good h u m i d i t y r e s i s t a n c e . Ingredients: Lovocryl-47 AMP R e g u l a r C i t r o f 1ex-2 C r o t e i n ADW d l -Pantheno1 P u r c e l 1i n O i 1 Dei o n i zed Water Anhydrous E t h a n o l ,

P a r t s by Weight 8.00 1.61 0.20 0.10 0.05 0.05 9.99 80.00

SDA-40

Valve S p e c i f i c a t i o n s :

Calmar Head : SPV: GSK:

Mark I 1 V a l v e WS 302 SS 05744

Inductor: 6 1/4" ACM: 1 B L I P

Preparation: D i s s o l v e AMP i n w a t e r and e t h a n o l Whi l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n L o v o c r y l - 4 7 . Once d i s s o l v e d , add b a l a n c e o f i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i 1 homogeneous. F i l t e r and fill. F o r m u l a t i o n 7974:115

.

Ultra-Hold Finishing Spray T h i s anhydrous a e r o s o l h a i r spray has a s t i f f h o l d w i t h e x c e l l e n t h u m i d i t y r e s i s t a n c e , c o m p a t i b i l i t y w i t h a wide v a r i e t y o f a d d i t i v e s and e x c e l l e n t s u b j e c t i v e p r o p e r t i e s on h a i r . Inaredi ents: Resyn 28-2930 AMP R e g u l a r DC Q2-5220 Phosphol ip i d EFA TEA S a l i c y 1 a t e Monamid 716 Fragrance Anhydrous E t h a n o l , P r o p e l 1a n t A-46

SDA-40

P a r t s by W e i g h t 5.40 0.54 0.20 0.20 0.05 0.10 q.s. 68.51 25.00

P r e p a r a t io n : D i s s o l v e AMP i n e t h a n o l , W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t Resyn 28-2930 i n t o t h e v o r t e x . When t h e s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i 1 homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e . C h a r g e w i t h p r o p e l l a n t . F o r m u l a t i o n 6472:146

SOURCE:

N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and C h e m i c a l Co. : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

190

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hot Oil Conditioner with CPO Quantity S t a g e M a t e r i a1 : Stage A: 1 Water; Pure 85.4409 2 N a t r o s o l 2 5 0 HR 0.7509 3 Germaben 11-E 0.5009 S t a g e B: 4 I n c r o q u a t SDQ-25 3 . OOOg 5 Emulgade 1000 N I 1.ooog 6 AEC C h e r r y P i t O i l 1 .ooog 7 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP 3 . OOOg 0.4409 8 C i t r i c A c i d BP 9 L e x a m i n e S-13 2,2209 Cooling Cycle: 10 D - P a n t h e n o l 75% 0.5009 11 F r a g r a n c e ; C h e r r y AG6330 0.150g 2 . ooog 12 C o l o u r s as r e q u i r e d Mixing Instructions: D i s p e r s e t h e H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e i n w a t e r and b r i n g t o 70C. S e p a r a t e l y h e a t t h e O i l Phase t o 70C and w i t h h i g h s h e a r m i x i n g add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Aqueous, m i x b r i e f l y t h e n s t i r u n t i l cool. Add F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e and c o l o u r a s r e q u i r e d and a d j u s t t h e pH t o 5 . 0 - 5 . 5 . T h i s s i m p l e f o r m u l a may be r e a d i l y a d a p t e d t o t a k e h e r b a l a d d i t i v e s , s o l u b l e p r o t e i n s and o t h e r a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s as requi red.

SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d . :

Project:

JW 2 3 3 5 / F o r m u l a R e f . 816*l

Hair Straightener Panalane's f u n c t i o n i s t o reduce s c a l p burn w h i l e p r o v i d i n g e m o l l i e n c e and s p r e a d a b i l i t y . Y e t i t h a s a l e s s g r e a s y f e e l i n g on t h e s k i n t h a n o t h e r o i l s u s e d i n t h i s t y p e o f p r o d u c t . Panal a n e i s s t a b l e a t t h e h i g h pH r e q u i r e d f o r t h i s a p p l i c a t i o n . Sequence: Raw M a t e r i a l : Percent 56.00 1 Dei o n i zed Water 1 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 2.00 1 U n i p h e n P-23 1.oo 2 Lipowax P 15.00 2 Petrolatum White 8.00 2 P a n a l ane L-14E 10.00 3 S o d i um H y d r o x i de ( 2 5 % s o l n ) 8.00 Procedure: 1 . Combine and h e a t Sequence #1 and Sequence #2 s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C 2 . Add Sequence # 2 t o Sequence #1 w i t h r a p i d m i x i n g . 3 . C o o l t o 40C b e f o r e a d d i n g Sequence # 3 . 4 . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and p a c k a g e . SOURCE: L i p 0 C h e m i c a l s I n c . : F o r m u l a No. 825

Hair Care Products

191

Modern Expression Hair Mask Ingredients: Deionized water P1 u r a c a r e F127 L u v i q u a t Mono CP D - P a n t h e n o l 50 P L u v i s k o l VA 73 W Dow C o r n i n g 193 P o l y e t h e r H y d r o 1 y z e d Wheat P r o t e i n S o l u - S O ~EN25 N i p a g u a r d DMDMH AMP-95 Tenox BHT (10% i n SD A l c o h o l )

A.

% by Weight 70.01 20.00 1 .oo 2 .oo 1-00 0.50 0.70 0.30 0.50 0.49 1.00

B. Cremophor RH 40 Fragrance

0.35 0.15

C.

2.00

L u v i m e r 100 P

Procedure: U s i n g c o l d w a t e r f o r p h a s e A (4C-1OC) s l o w l y add t h e P l u r a c a r e t o t h e w a t e r and m i x u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s homogeneous. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f A t o t h e P l u r a c a r e s o l u t i o n . Combine Phases B and C s e p a r a t e l y . M a i n t a i n t h e p h a s e A t e m p e r a t u r e b e l o w 1OC and add p h a s e s B and C t o A . T r a n s f e r t h e m i x t u r e t o a p p r o p r i a t e c o n t a i n e r s and a l l o w t o warm up t o room t e m p e r a t u r e , whereupon t h e l i q u i d becomes a ringing gel. F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0397 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF (SG1103/2) Spiking Spritz T h i s s p i k i n g s p r i t z c o n t a i n s Dow C o r n i n g 190 s u r f a c t a n t , r e d u c e s t a c k i n e s s and p r o v i d e s a 1 i g h t , n o n g r e a s y f e e l . Ingredients: E t h a n o l (190 p r o o f ) Dow C o r n i n g 190 S u r f a c t a n t AMP-Regul a r Amp homer

which

% by Weight

91.90 1.00 1.10 6.00

Procedure: Mix i n o r d e r . S t a b i 1i t y : 3 months a t 40C 6 months a t room t e m p e r a t u r e F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0367

s u g g e s t e d b y Dow C o r n i n g C o r p .

.

SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l Co : P r o d u c t Formul a r y

(E8239-21)

192

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Non-Aerosol Finishing Spray A l i g h t , h o l d i n g spray that provides a c o n d i t i o n i n g sheen through the use of P h o s p h o l i p i d E F A , SD Alcohol 40 V i n y l Acetate/Crotonic Acid Copolymer Water P h o s p h o l i p i d EFA A m i n o m e t h y l Propanol

%_By Weight 94.10 3.75 1.20 0.60 0.35

Add v i n y l acetate/crotonic acid copolymer to alcohol slowly w i t h adequate a g i t a t i o n , mix u n t i l w e l l dispersed. Add aminomethyl propanol to n e u t r a l i z e , and mix u n t i l dissolved. Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , color, fragrance and package.

Finishing Spray % By.__Weigil± 94.10 3.75 1 .20 0.35 0.60

SD Alcohol 40 Resyn 28-1310 Water A m i n o m e t h y l Propanol P h o s p h o l i p i d EFA

Procedure: Add Resyn 28-1310 to alcohol slowly w i t h adequate a g i t a t i o n , mix u n t i l w e l l dispersed. Add aminomethyl propanol to neutralize, and mix u n t i l dissolved. Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s color, fragrance and package. Replenishing Creme Rinse Water Hydroxyethyl Cellulose Glycol Distearate Cetearyl Alcohol Monaquat TG P h o s p h o l i p i d EFA

% By W e i g h t 87.80 0.70 2.00 2.50 6.70 0.30

Procedure; Charge water, c a r e f u l l y add Natrosol 250 HHR w i t h good agitation. Heat to 50-60 and add r e m a i n i n g ingredients and continue heating to 7OC. Cool to 45C and adjust pH to 4.5 to 5.0. Add color, fragrance and preservative as required. Continue agitation and c o o l i n g u n t i l pearl develops.

Formula F-577 SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Suggested Formulations

Hair Care Products

193

Pelan Hair Conditioner T h i s p r o d u c t e m p l o y s h u m e c t a n t s , e m o l l i e n t s and n a t u a l c o n d i t i o n e r s s u c h a s P e l a n B l a c k and L i p o q u a t R w h i c h s o f t e n and enrich the h a i r , leaving a healthy shine. Sequence 1 1

Wei q h t % 79.00 0.30

Raw M a t e r i a1 : Dei o n i zed Water Keltrol

3 3

L i p o n i c EG-1 U n i p h e n P-23

2.00 0.50

4

Pelan Black

8.00

5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

Lipocol C L i p 0 GMS-450 L i p o n a t e SPS Lipowax D L i p o p e g 6000 DS Liponate IPP Lipowax P Lipocol S L i p o n a t e DPC-6 Vitamin E Acetate

1.50 1.25 1 .oo 1.oo 1.oo 0.75 0.75 0.65 0.50 0.50

6 6

Dei o n i z e d W a t e r L i poquat R

0.30

1 .oo

Procedure: 1 . H e a t Sequence # 1 t o 76C. 2 . Add Sequence #2 t o Sequence # 1 s l o w l y on o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medi um/hi gh s p e e d . 3 . Once Sequence #2 i s c o m p l e t e l y h y d r a t e d , add Sequence #3 i n o r d e r o f a d d i t i o n , w h i l e h o l d i n g t e m p e r a t u r e a t 76C. 4 . Add Sequence # 4 t o b a t c h u n d e r h o m o g e n i z a t i o n a t low/medium speed whi 1e h o l d i ng t e m p e r a t u r e a t 76C. 5 . H e a t Sequence # 5 t o 78C, u n t i l c l e a r , t h e n add t o b a t c h u n d e r h o m o g e n i z a t i o n a t low/medium s p e e d . 6 . A t room t e m p e r a t u r e , p r e m i x Sequence #6 and add t o h e a t e d b a t c h on homomixer a t l o w speed f o r 20-30 s e c o n d s . 7 . S w i t c h t o o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t l o w speed w h i l e c o o l i n g t o room temperature. S p e c i f ic a t io n s : pH: 5.2t-0.2 V i s c o s i t y : 27,900i-10%

LVT #3 @ 3 . 0 rpm

SOURCE: L i p 0 C h e m i c a l s I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n

N o . 946

194

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pomade

Formul a t i n g D e s i gn and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s a n h y d r o u s p r o d u c t h a s been f o r m u l a t e d f o r l o w c o s t and s t i l l h a v e good f u n c t i o n a l p r o p e r t i e s t o w a r d h a i r . Formul a : Perfecta Petrolatum (Witco) M i n e r a l O i 1 USP ( K a y d o l - W i t c o ) E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF ( K o s t e r Keunen) C e r e s i n e Wax 130/135 ( K o s t e r Keunen) V i t a m i n E (BASF) D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) D & C Red # 1 7 Dye ( W h i t t a k e r ) Coconut F r a g r a n c e O i l (Aroma T e c h )

YO b y W e i q h t 32.00 51 . 5 5 6.00 8.00

0.20 2.00 0.05

0.20

Procedure: Add a l l i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t f r a g r a n c e i n t o a v e s s e l , h e a t t i l l 70C and m i x . Once homogeneous, a l l o w t o c o o l w h i l e m i x i n g . Add f r a g r a n c e a t 50C and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : S u b s t i t u t i o n o f t h e dye and/or f r a g r a n c e w i l l n o t a l t e r p r o d u c t c o n s i s t e n c y . A d d i t i o n a l a c t i v e s may b e i n c o r p o r a t e d t o f i t consumer's needs. SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen,

I n c , : A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g Hair Straightener

_F_o_r m _ _u ~l a~: _ A:

Dei o n i zed Water P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l B: P o l awax W h i t e P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m ( W i t c o ) Hydrogenated Polyisobutene C: Sodium H y d r o x i d e (25% s o l . ) D: P r o p y l e n e G 1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 i d i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben ( S u t t o n )

15.00 8.00 10.00 8.00 1.oo

Procedure: Combine and h e a t w a t e r phase A and o i l phase B s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C. Add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r p h a s e w i t h r a p i d m i x i n g . Cool t o 40C b e f o r e a d d i n g C and D . Cool t o room t e m p . and package.

SOURCE:

W i t c o C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Hair Care Products

195

Premium Biodegradable Hair Conditioner % by Weight Q.S. t o 100.0 0.70

D. I. W a t e r Hydroxyethyl C e l l ulose Sodi um H y d r o x i d e (5 0%) Ammonyx GA-SO/GA-70PG Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l Kessco O c t y l I s o n o n a n o a t e Potassium C h l o r i d e C i t r i c A c i d ( 50%) F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e

Q.S. 2.22/2.86 2.00 2.00 0.50

Q.S. Q.S.

M i x i n g Procedure: I n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l e q u i p p e d w i t h h e a t i n g , c o o l i n g , and a g i t a t i o n means, add D . I . W a t e r . B e g i n m i x i n g . I n t o a v o r t e x , s p r i n k l e i n H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e . Add Sodium H y d r o x i d e t o r a i s e t h e p H t o 7 . 5 - 8 . 0 and c o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l o f Heat t h e H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e has d i s s o l v e d ( 3 0 - 4 0 m i n u t e s ) t o 70-75C. Add Ammonyx GA-90 o r GA-70PG, Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l , and Kessco O c t y l I s o n o n a n o a t e . E m u l s i f y f o r 30 m i n u t e s and m a i n t a i n t h e t e m p e r a t u r e b e t w e e n 70-75C. Cool t o 38-48C and add Potassium C h l o r i d e d i s s o l v e d i n w a t e r . A d j u s t f i n a l pH ( 3 . 5 - 4 . 5 ) w i t h c i t r i c a c i d , i f n e c e s s a r y . Cool t o a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h c o n t i n u o u s m i x i n g , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s . I

Ethnic Hair Shine 56 b y W e i q h t 70.0 25.0 5.0

Dow C o r n i n g S i l i c o n e 245 Kessco O c t y l I s o n o n a n o a t e O c t y l M e t h o x y c i nnamate

M i x i ng P r o c e d u r e : Combi ne a1 1 in g r e d i e n t s w i t h m i x i n g

I

SOURCE: S t e p a n Co.: S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

196

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pump Hair Spray

Pump H a i r S p r a y b a s e d on t h e w e l l - k n o w n G a n t r e z ES-225, c o n t a i n s Dow C o r n i n g 3225C F o r m u l a t i o n a i d w h i c h f u n c t i o n s i n t w o ways. F i r s t , t h e c y c l o m e t h i c o n e component p r o v i d e s l u b r i c i t y f o r t h e i n i t i a l s t y l i n g and c o m b i n g . Second, t h e d i m e t h i c o n e c o p o l y o l component r e m a i n s b e h i n d a f t e r a l l t h e v o l a t i l e s a r e gone, t o p r o v i d e easy c o m b i n g . Daw C o r n i n g 3225C a l s o a c t s as a r e s i n p l a s t i c i z e r and d e t a c k i f i e r . % by Weight

Ingredients: Dow C o r n i n g 3225C F l u i d G a n t r e z ES-225 AMP-Regul a r SD A l c o h o l 40

1 .oo 6.90 0.20 91.90

Procedure: Weigh o u t t h e a l c o h o l and d i s s o l v e t h e AMP i n t o i t . S t i r i n t h e r e s i n and t h e Dow C o r n i n g 3225C f o r m u l a t i o n a i d . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m and add f r a g r a n c e if d e s i r e d I

Stability: The s t a b i l i t y o f t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n h a s n o t been a s s e s s e d . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0366 s u g g e s t e d by Dow C o r n i n g C o r p . ( E 2 - 3 2 8 7 ) Flexible Spray Gel H i g h l y s h e a r t h i n n i n g due t o t h e c o p o l y m e r t h i c k e n e r i n Phase B .

46 by W e i g h t

Ingredients: Part A: Water Ethanol D i s o d i um EDTA AMP-95 K a t h o n CG C i t r o f l ex-2 Acudyne 255, 41%

79.94 6.00 0.10 0.62 0.04 0.10 10.00

P a r t B: A c u l y n 22

3.20

Procedure: Combine A i n o r d e r shown. S t i r u n t i l c l e a r . Add B . S t i r u n t i l thickened. P r o p e r t i8s : V i s c o s i t y ( # 4 a t 60 rpm) : 400 c p s F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0369 s u g g e s t e d b y Rohm & Haas.

SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l Co.:

Product Formulary

Hair Care Products

197

Salon Type Hair Conditioner S t a t e o f t h e a r t p r o t e i n/panthenol based c o n d i t i o n e r designed f o r achievement o f s a l o n t y p e performance.

%w/w

Ingredients: 1 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . R i t a STAC-80- ( S t e a r t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 3 . R i t a CTAC-605 ( C e t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 4 . C i t r i c A c i d @ 50% 5 . D i m e t h y l S t e a r a m i ne (Adogen MA-1 08) 6 . D i s t i11e d / D e i o n i z e d W a t e r 7 . A m a n d u l i n e SG (Sweet Almond P r o t e i n ) 8. R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e V e r a G e l ) 9 . Ritapan DL (dl-Panthenol) 1 0 . P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 11 . P o l y q u t a 400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 1 2 . K a t h o n CG 13.Dow C o r n i n g 7224 14.Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d 15.Fragrance

5.00 2.50

0.50 0.18 0.13

85.84 2.00

0.50 1-00 0.50 1-00 0.03 0.40 0.17 0.25

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 11 i n i t e m 6 w h i l e m i x i n g . H e a t t o 70C. Add i t e m s 8, 9, 10 and 1 3 . Combine i t e m s 1, 2, 3 and 5 and h e a t t o 70C. Add t o w a t e r p h a s e . Add i t e m 4 a n d m i x w h i l e c o o l i n g . Add i t e m s 7, 12, 14 a n d 15 when c o o l . R e f . No. 121-177 Pump Spray Hair Conditioner A pump s p r a y c o n d i t i o n e r c o n t a i n i n g P o l y q u t a 400 190 and A m a n d u l i n e SG f o r c o n d i t i o n i n g .

Ingredients : 1 D i s t i 11e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . P o l y q u t a 400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 3 . A m a n d u l i n e SG ( H y d r o l y z e d Sweet Almond P r o t e i n ) 4 . R i t a s i l 190 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ) 5. Propylene G l y c o l 6. Glydant 7. Fragrance

.

,

R itasi 1

Yfi 89.60 0.50

5.00 1-00 3.50 0.20 0.20

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 2 i n i t e m 1. Heat i f necessary. A l l o w t o c o o l and add i t e m s 3 - 7 . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . R e f . No. 121-181 SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

198

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Soft Set Conditioning Mousse T h i s c o n d i t i o n i n u mousse f o r m u l a t i o n D r o v i d e s f o r b o t h a s o f t , n o n t a c k y h o l d t o a h a r s e t and a c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t on t h e h a i r f i b e r s . The Sodium Po y P G - p r o p y l D i m e t h i c o n e T h i o s u l f a t e c o n t r i b u t e s g l o s s and h y d r o p h o b i c i t y t o t h e h a i r YO b y W e i g h t I n gr ed 1-e n t s : P a r t A: 82.20 Water 3.00 S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l PG-d moniurn c h l o r i d e D h o s p h a t e Part 8: 10.00 Isopropyl Alcohol Sod1 um P o l y P G - p r o p y l D i m e t h i c o n e T h i o s u l f a t e 0.50 ( A b i l 5-201) 0.30 AMP-95 2.00 B u t y l E s t e r o f PVM/MA c o p o l y m e r Part C: D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l (Ab1 1 B 8 8 5 1 ) 2.00 P a r t D: Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e s q.s. Fill: Concentrate 83.30 Isobutane 16.70 Procedure: M i x A . H e a t t o 65C and c o n t i n u e t o m i x u n t i l homogeneous. Cool t o 40C. S e p a r a t e l y m i x B a t 25C u n t i l homogeneous. Add A t o B w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add C and D, m i x u n t i l homogeneous. Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r i n g and p r e s e r v a t i v e a s r e q u i r e d . Cool t o 25C. Charge i n t o a e r o s o l c o n t a i n e r . Add p r o o o l l a n t . Formul a t 1 on PF-0237 s u g g e s t e d b y Go1 dschmi d t Cherni c a l Corp.

.

Styling/Conditioning Mousse

Ingredients: 9/0 b y Wg1gtll Phase A : Water, d e i o n i z e d 74.15 0.10 M u l g o f e n ON-870 Gafquat HS-100 10.00 0.40 Dimethicone p o l yo1 Phase 8 : Ethanol 10.00 Advantage CP 5.00 AMP R e g u l a r 0.35 A e r o s o l F i 11 : Concentrate 90-95 Propaneibutane 5-1 0 Procedure: P r e p a r e Phase A b y d i s s o l v i n g M u l g o f e n i n w a t e r . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d , s t i r t h o r o u g h l y a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . P r e p a r e Phase B b y d i s s o l v i n g AMP R e g u l a r i n e t h a n o l . Then add A d v a n t a g e C P , m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add p e r f u m e w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add Phase B t o Phase A w i t h s t i r r i n g . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Charge a e r o s o l c o n t a i n e r s and p r e s s u r i ze w i t h p r o p e l 1 a n t . Formul a t 1 on PF-0240E s u g g e s t e d b y I S P SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o r p . : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

199

Strong Advantage Mousse % by Weight

Ingredients : Deionized water L u v i q u a t Mono C P D - P a n t h e n o l 50P Dow C o r n i n g 193 P o l y e t h e r H y d r o 1 y z e d Wheat P r o t e i n N i p a g u a r d DMDMH AMP-95

81 - 5 0 1 .oo 0.32 1.oo 0.20 0.50 0.98

A.

B . L u v i m e r 100 P C.

4.00

Cremophor RH 40 L i p o p e g 6000 DS F r a g r a n c e ( H a i r M o n s t e r U800 0 2 5 )

D. P r o p e l l a n t A46

0.30 0.10 0.10

10.00

Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n p h a s e A and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. Add p h a s e B t o A and m i x . Add C t o AB and m i x . F i 11 i n t o a p p r o p r i a t e c o n t a i n e r s w i t h p r o p e l 1 a n t , F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0396 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF (SG1099/2) Shape N' Style Volumizing Spritz % by Weight

Ingredients: SD A l c o h o l 40, 190 p r o o f Dei o n i zed w a t e r L u v i s k o l V A 73 E D - P a n t h e n o l USP U v i n u l MC 80 AMP-95 Fragrance

82.00 7.41 4.00 0.50 0.10 0.49 q.s

A.

8.

L u v i m e r 36 D

5.50

Procedure: Combine p h a s e A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d , m i x i n g a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . Add B t o A and m i x . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0394 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF (ND546/1) SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l C o . :

Product Formulary

200

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Vision '98 55% VOC Hairspray Ina r e d ien t s : SD A l c o h o l 40, 190 p r o o f Dei o n i zed w a t e r D - P a n t h e n o l USP AMP-95 Dow C o r n i n g 190 S u r f a c t a n t L u v i m e r Low VOC

A.

B.

% by Weight 58.00 23.87 0.50 1 .13 0.10 16.20

Fragrance

0.20

Procedure: Combine p h a s e A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e w r i t e n o r d e r u n d e r m i x i n g . Add B t o A and m i x w e l l . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0400 s u g g e s t e d by BASF C o r p .

(ND6098/1)

Vision '98 55% VOC Hairspray Ingredients: SD A l c o h o l 40, 190 p r o o f Dei o n i zed w a t e r D - P a n t h e n o l USP AMP-95 Dow C o r n i n g 190 S u r f a c t a n t L u v i m e r Low VOC

% by W e i g h t

58.00 14.35 0.50 1 .70 0.20 25.00

A.

0 . Fragrance

0.25

Procedure: Combine phase A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e w r i t t e n o r d e r u n d e r m i x i n g . Add B t o A and m i x w e l l . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0401 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF C o r p . SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l C o . :

Product Formulary

(ND6098/2)

Hair Care Products

201

Vision '98 Pump Hairspray - 55% VOC - 6% Solids

YO b y W e i q h t

Inqredients: Phase A : D e i o n i z e d Water SD A l c o h o l 4 0 , 190 p r o o f D-Panthenol AMP-95 Dow C o r n i n g 190 S u r f a c t a n t L u v i m e r Low VOC Phase B: F r a g r a n c e ( B a l s a m HF-F-95

23.50 58.00 0.50 1 .50 0.10 16.20 0.20

14276)

Procedure: Combine phase A i n g r e d e n t s i n t h e w r i t t e n o r d e r . Add B t o A and m i x we1 P a c k a g i ng : M i l a n - O v a l B o t t l e (Calpac Continer Corp.) A i r F o r c e I 1 Pump (Emerson C o r p . ) F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0348

s u g g e s t e d by BASF C o r p .

(ND6037/1)

Forever Curls Hair Spray

P a r t i c u l a r l y e f f e c t i v e f o r c u r l r e t e n t i o n , t h i s pump s p r a y keeps c u r l s b e a u t i f u l l y i n p l a c e . B y g i v i n g h a i r more body and a d d i n g l u b r i c i t y , H y d r o t r i t i c u m QL enhances t h e h o l d and keeps h a i r f e e l i n g s o f t and s m o o t h . C r o v o l A-70 i s u s e d h e r e as a s o l u b i 1 1 z e r and p l a s t i c i z e r .

I n g red?.e n t SA Part A : SDA-40 A 1 coho1 Amphomer 28-4910

63.50 0.75

P a r t 8: Dei o n i zed Water C r o v o l A-70 AMP-95

33.62 1-00 0.13

P a r t C: H y d r o t r i t i c u m QL

1

.oo

Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A b y d u s t i n g Amphomer i n t o a l c o h o l w i t h v i g o r o u s m i x i n g . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g . Add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g . When c l e a r , add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and f i l l . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0169

suggested by Croda I n c .

S O U R C E : Angus C h e m i c a l C o . : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

202

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Wheat Moisturizing and Styling Gel T h i c k , s p r e a d a b l e g e l h o l d s , m o i s t u r i z e s , a n d a d d s s h i n e and p r o t e c t i v e proteins t o hai r . ~Inqredient_sl

YO b y W e i g h t

Part A: Pol y s o r b a t e - 2 0 PPG-12 PEG-65 l a n o l i n o i l Fragrance

1.00

( I v a r l a n AWS)

2.00 0.20

P a r t B: Glycerin Dei o n i zed w a t e r H y d r o l y z e d wheat p r o t e i n ( W h e a t - T e i n NL) Preservative, col or Part C: Carbomer 9 4 0 , Part

2% a q . s o l n .

10.00 22.20 1.oo q.s.

(Carbopol 9 4 0 )

50.00

D:

AM P- 9 5

Part E: I s o p r o p y l A l c o h o l , 99% PVP/PA c o p o l y m e r (PVP/VA

0.60 10.00 2.00

E-735)

P a r t F: E t h y l e s t e r o f h y d r o l y z e d k e r a t i n ( K e r a - t e i n 1000 A S )

1 .DO

Procedure: P r e m i x A u n t i l c l e a r . Add B . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. Add t o C . Add D to ABC. M i x t u r e w i l l c l e a r and t h i c k e n . P r e m i x E . Add t o b a t c h . Add F; m i x . Forniul a t i o n PF-0255 s u g g e s t e d b y Maybrook Pump Hairspray Ingredients: G a n t r e z E S 225 AMP R e g u l a r F i n s o l v TN Ethanol

_. ~

"/. bYLW&Q!Lt 9.00 0 * 45 0.50 90.05

Procedure: D i s s o l v e AMP i n e t h a n o l . Add t h e r e s i n w i t h m i x i n g and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add F i n s o l v TN and m i x . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0358 s u g g e s t e d b y F i n e t e x

SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l C o . : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

203

W/O Hair Sculpturing Cream Ingredients: Wei a h t % Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i 1 WE-09) 5.00 0.50 Hydrogenated Castor O i l M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne Wax 0.20 Petrolatum 1.80 Mineral O i l 7.50 Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 2 0 ) 1.oo O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosoft OS) 2.00 2.00 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegosoft P) 2.00 Phase B: Glycerin 2.50 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 2.50 P r e s e r v a t iv e s Q.S. Water 70.15 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.80 DL-Panthenol 0.40 H y d r o l y z e d Wheat P r o t e i n 0.40 PV P 1 .oo Q u a t e r n i urn-80 ( A b i 1 Quat 3272) 0.25 Phase C : Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f t h e o i l p h a s e t o g e t h e r . H e a t t o m e l t and d i s p e r s e t h e waxes. When d i s p e r s e d , c o o l t o t e m p e r a t u r e o f 45-50C. 2 . M i x t h e w a t e r and s o d i u m c h l o r i d e . H e a t t o 45-5OC. 3 . W i t h s o f t l i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g , s t r e a m t h e w a t e r phase s l o w l y i n t o t h e o i l phase. 4 . W i t h sweep a g i t a t i o n , c o o l t o 35C. 5 . Add c o l o r , f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e s . 6 . Homogenize w i t h a r o t o - s t a t o r h o m o g e n i z e r . Spray Detangler/Conditioner Ingredients: Wei Q h t % Water 9 6 50 0.10 T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA Q.S. Preservatives 1.60 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 0.30 Q u a t e r n i urn-80 ( A b i 1 Quat 3272) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e ( T a g a t 0) 0.45 Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) Sodium PCA ( a n d ) G l y c i n e ( a n d ) F r u c t o s e ( a n d ) Urea (and) N i a c i n a m i d e (and) I n o s i t o l ( a n d ) Sodium B e n z o a t e ( a n d ) L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l ) 0.30 0,75 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n ) t o pH 4 . 0 Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . A d j u s t pH. F r a g r a n c e . SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Chemical C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s I

204

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

55% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray % by Weight 14.90 38 - 9 7 0.33 10.00 0.30 0.40 35.00

Ingredients: SD 40 B A l c o h o l Water AMP-95 Omni r e z - 2 0 0 0 Ammoni um H y d r o x i d e MEA B o r a t e and MIPA B o r a t e Dimethyl Ether Val ve : Seaqui s t : Stem: Body : V . Tap: I D Tubing: Actuator: O r i f ic e :

ST-74 0.018" c a p i 11 a r y 0.01 5" 0.050" ST-150 M i s t y 0.023"

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0383 s u g g e s t e d b y I S P ( 1 0 2 6 3 - 1 1 ) Acudyne 255 55% VOC HFC-152a Aerosol Hair Spray % b y Weight

Insredi ents: Water Ethanol AMP-95 DC 190 F l u i d

A.

1.80 55.00 0.56 0.10

B . Acudyne 255 (41%)

12.50

Dymel HFC-152a

12.50

C.

Procedure: P r e p a r e p h a s e A . Then add p h a s e B w i t h s t i r r i n g , M i x u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s s l i g h t l y t u r b i d but a c t i v e ingredients are dispersed. Add Dhase C . Physical Characteristics: C l o u d p o i n t : <-22F F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0389 s u g g e s t e d b y Rohm & Haas Co. SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l Co.:

Product Formulary

(PF-051)

Hair Care Products

205

80% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray Inqredients: SD 40 B A l c o h o l Water AMP-95 Omni r e z - 2 0 0 0 Dimethicone Copolyol L a u r a m i d e DEA Ammonium H y d r o x i d e MEA B o r a t e and MIPA B o r a t e P r o p a n e / I s o b u t a n e b l e n d (A-70) Valve: P r e c i s i o n Aquasol Stem: 2 x 0.20" Body : .023" V.Tap: N/A-chamber I D Tubing: 0.060" Actuator: P r e c i s i on O r i f ic e : 0 . 0 1 6 " C02

% bv W e i g h t 57,00

11 .13 0.37 16.00 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.20 15.00

2 X 0.10"

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0379 s u g g e s t e d b y I S P ( 1 0 2 5 0 - 1 8 - 1 ) 80% VOC Single Phase Hydrocarbon Aerosol Hair Spray % by Weight

Ingre d ien t s : SD 40 B A l c o h o l Water AMP-95 Omni r e z - 2 0 0 0 Dimethicone Copolyol Laurami de DEA Ammoni um H y d r o x i de MEA B o r a t e and MIPA B o r a t e Dimethyl Ether

Val ve : Seaqui s t Stem: Body : V.Tap: I D Tubing: Actuator: Orifice:

ST-74 0.01 8" c a p i l l a r y (under development) 0 0 13 " 0.030" ST-150 M i s t y 0.020"

.

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0380

s u g g e s t e d by I S P ( 1 0250-1 8 - 2 )

SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l C o . : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

37.00 11 - 1 3 0.37 16.00 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.20 35.00

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

206

55% VOC Innovative Product Formulation

I by Weight 10.00 1.73 0.15 0.10 0.10 0.15 7.77 50.00 q.s. 12.00 18.00

Ingredients: L o v o c r y l 47 AMP-95 Monamid 716 V a r i o n CADG LS DC 556 P u r c e l l in O i 1 D e i o n i z e d Water E t h a n o l , SDA-40 Fragrance n-Butane Dimethyl ether

Procedure: D i s s o l v e AMP-95 i n e t h a n o l and w a t e r . Whi l e mai n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n L o v o c r y l 4 7 . When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , a d d r e m a i n i n g in g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i 1 homogeneous. F i 1t e r and f i l l . Charge cans w i t h p r o p e l l a n t . Valve: Seaquist Valve: Stem O r i f i c e : D i p Tube: Body : Vapor Tap: Actuator:

NS-34 0.013” 0.040” Capi 11 a r y 0.013” E x c e l 200 0 . 0 1 3 ” M i s t y

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0352 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & C h e m i c a l Corp. (7879-1221) Aerosol Finishing Spray Ingredients: SD A l c o h o l 40, 2 0 0 p r o o f D - P a n t h e n o l 50P AMP R e g u l a r Fragrance

A.

B.

L u v i m e r 1OOP

C.

HFC 152a

Yo

voc:

% by Weight 55.16 1.oo 0.74 0.10

3.00 40.00

55%

Procedure: Combine p h a s e A . S p r i n k l e B i n t o A and m i x w e l l . F i 11 i n t o a p p r o p r i a t e c o n t a i n e r s w i t h p r o p e l l a n t . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0399 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF C o r p .

SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l C o r p . : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

(ND538/1)

Hair Care Products

80% VOC Innovative Aerosol Hair Spray % by Weight

Innredients : SD 40 B A l c o h o l AMP-95 Omni r e z - 2 0 0 0 Dimethicone Copolyol Laurami de DEA 152A HFC p r o p e l l a n t Dimethyl Ether Valve: Seaqui s t : Stem: Body : VaporTap : I D Tubing: Actuator: Orifice:

44.36 0.44 20.00 0.10 0.10 15.00 20.00

ST-74 0 . 0 10 " c a p i 11 a r y 0 0 10 " 0.030" ST-150 M i s t y 0.020"

.

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0381

s ug ge st ed by IS P (10250-18-8)

55% VOC Innovative Aerosol Hair Spray Innredients: SD 40 B A l c o h o l Water AMP-95 Omni r e z - 2 0 0 0 D i m e t h i c o n e Copol yo1 Lau r ami d e DEA Ammoni um H y d r o x i de MEA B o r a t e and M I P A B o r a t e 152 A HFC P r o p e l l a n t Dimethyl Ether Val ve : Seaqui s t : Stem: Body : VaporTap : I D Tubing: Actuator: Orifice:

% bv Weight

ST-74 0 . 0 10 " c a p i 11a r y 0 . 0 10 " 0.030" ST-150 M i s t y 0.020"

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0382

suggested by ISP (10250-18-9)

SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l C o . : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

44.36 4.06 0 * 44 20.00 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.20 30.00 5.00

207

Section VII Lotions

208

Lotions

209

AHA Moisturizing Lotion

% by Weight Q.S. t o 100.0 5.00 0.15 2.85 15.0 2.5 2.0 2.0 1.5 0.01 7.0-10.0

D . I.Water

G1 y c e r i n M e t h y l Paraben Ammonyx GA-70 PG Neobee M-5 C o s m e t i c Kessco GMS P u r e Kessco IPM Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l Stearyl Alcohol P r o p y l Paraben G l y c o l i c A c i d (70%) P r e s e r v a t iv e , C o l o r , F r a g r a n c e Q.S. M i x i ng P r o c e d u r e : I n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l e q u i p p e d w i t h h e a t i n g , c o o l i n g , and a g i t a t i o n , p r e p a r e t h e w at er phase by a d d i n g D . I . Water, G l y c e r i n , M e t h y l P a r a b e n , and Ammonyx GA-70 PG. S t a r t h e a t i n g t o 70-75C. I n t o a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , p r e p a r e t h e o i l p h a s e b y a d d i n g t o g e t h e r Neobee M-5 C o s m e t i c , Kessco GMS P u r e , Kessco IPM, Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l , S t e a r y l A l c o h o l , and P r o p y l P a r a b e n . H e a t t o 73-77C. Add t h e o i l p h a s e t o t h e w a t e r p h a s e w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . E m u l s i f y f o r 20-25 m i n u t e s a t 80-82C. W i t h m i x i n g , s t a r t c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . S l o w l y add G l y c o l i c A c i d (70%) a t 30C. M i x we1 1 . Add P r e s e r v a t i v e , C o l o r , and F r a g r a n c e . A d j u s t pH t o 3 . 0 - 3 . 5 i f n e c e s s a r y . AHA Moisturizing Lotion % by Weight

D . I.Water

t o 100.0 M e t h y l Paraben 0.15 1.5 Glycerin Kessco GMS S . E . / A . S . 2.0 Kessco GMS P u r e 3.5 Kessco C e t y l A1 coho1 1.5 Neobee M-5 C o s m e t i c 5.0 Kessco ICs 1.5 G l y c o l i c A c i d (70%) 7.2 P r e s e r v a t iv e , C o l o r , F r a g r a n c e Q.S. M i x i ng P r o c e d u r e : I n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l e q u i p p e d w i t h h e a t i n g , c o o l i n g , and a g i t a t i o n , p r e p a r e t h e w a t e r phase b y a d d i n g D . I . Water, M e t h y l P a r a b e n , a n d G l y c e r i n . S t a r t m i x i n g and h e a t i n g t o 75-8OC. I n t o a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l p r e p a r e t h e o i l phase b y a d d i n g t o g e t h e r Kessco GMS S . E . / A . S . , Kessco GMS P u r e , Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l , Neobee M-5 C o s m e t i c , a n d Kessco ICs. S t a r t h e a t i n g t o 77-82C. Add t h e o i l p h a s e t o t h e w a t e r p h a s e w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . E m u l s i f y f o r 20-25 m i n u t e s a t 80-82C. W i t h m i x i n g , s t a r t c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . S l o w l y add G l y c o l i c A c i d ( 7 0 % ) a t 30C. M i x w e l l . Add P r e s e r v a t i v e , C o l o r , a n d F r a g r a n c e . A d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 , if n e c e s s a r y .

SOURCE: S t e p a n Co.:

Q.S.

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

210

Cosinetic and Toiletry Formulations

Anti-Aging Day Lotion This s o f t , anti-aging l o t i o n leaves a non-oily, gentle a f t e r f e e l on t h e s k i n . P e n t a v i t i n i m p r o v e s t h e w a t e r r e t e n t i o n and I m m u c e l l makes s k i n s m o o t h e r and more d e l i c a t e . Item Ingredients: Wei g h t % A ) G l u c a t e DO 2.00 1 2 G l u c a t e SS 1.50 3 Glucam E 2 0 D i s t e a r a t e 1.50 4 Promulgen D 1.50 5 Isopropyl Palmitate 3.00 6 Sesame O i l 1.oo 7 B) D e i o n i z e d W a t e r 77.30 8 Phenoni p 0.30 9 I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a 0.20 3.00 10 Glucam E 10 11 C a r b o p o l 1342 0.20 12 Pentavi ti n 5.00 13 Immucell 3.00 14 C) Triethanolamine 0.20 15 D) Fragrance-Courage 0/243101 0.30 Procedure: H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y p h a s e A) t o 70C. H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r p h a s e 8 ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add p h a s e B) t o p h a s e A ) . W i t h p h a s e C a d j u s t t h e p H t o 6 . 0 , homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then add p h a s e D ) and s t i r c o l d . SOURCE: P e n t a p h a r m L t d . : A p p l i c a t i o n No. C 0 1 4 . B / 0 9 . 9 5 Cationic Lotion with Incroquat Behenyl TMS Due t o t h e s u p e r i o r e m u l s i f y i n g and c o n d i t i o n i ng p r o p e r t i e s o f I n c r o q u a t B e h e n y l TMS, o n l y a few b a s i c i n g r e d i e n t s a r e needed t o f o r m t h i s s t a b l e and e l e g a n t l o t i o n . T h i s l o t i o n a c q u i r e s i t s s o f t , powdery a f t e r f e e l f r o m t h e c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s o f t h e Behenyl q u a t . I f d e s i r e d , e m o l l i e n t s , p r o t e i n s o r o t h e r such m a t e r i a l s c a n e a s i l y be added t o t h e f o r m u l a t o enhance t h e appeal o f t h e f i n a l p r o d u c t . Insredi ents: Wei e h t % P a r t A: Dei o n i z e d W a t e r 83.0 Glycerin 5.0 P a r t B: M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) 5.0 Petrolatum 2.0 I n c r o q u a t B e h e n y l TMS ( B e h e n t r i m o n i um M e t h o s u l f a t e (and) C e t e a r y l Alcohol ) 4.0 P a r t C: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 i d i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben 1.o Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 70-75C. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 70-75C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e . SOURCE: C r o d a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-267

Lotions

211

Body Lotion for Sensitive Skin

T h i s p u r e w h i t e and e l e g a n t l o t i o n , w i t h a p l e a s a n t end f e e l , c o n t a i n s D i s m u t i n-BT and P h y t a l u r o n a t e . T h i s combi n a t i o n r e g e n e r a t e s and p r o t e c t s s e n s i t i v e o r d r y s k i n .

Item 1 2 3 4 5

6

Insredie n t s A) Cremophor A6 Cremophor A25 L u v i t o l EHO Paraffin O i l Cetyl Alcohol C u t i n a GMS

7 8 9 10 11

B) D e i o n i z e d Water Phenoni p I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Phytal uronate

12

C) D i s m u t i n-BT

_ W_ eiat?? 1.oo

1-00 7.00 8.00 1.oo 2.50 71 . 7 0 0.30 0.20 2.00 5.00

0.30

Procedure: Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A ) t o 70C. H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r phase B ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase B ) t o phase A ) , c o o l t o 50C, homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then add phase C ) and s t i r c o l d . SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d , : A p p l i c a t i o n N o . C 0 0 4 . D / 0 1 . 9 6

Cleansing Lotion

Wei s h t % Ingredie e = 12.00 A) M i g l y o l 829 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c / S u c c i n i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e C i t r a t e ) 5.00 I m w i t o r 928 ( G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ) 5.00 B)

H y g r o p l e x HHG ( H e x y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) G l u c o s e ( a n d ) F r u c t o s e ( a n d ) S u c r o s e ( a n d ) Urea ( a n d ) D e x t r i n ( a n d ) A 1 a n i ne (and) G1 utami c A c i d (and) A s p a r t i c A c i d (and) Hexyl N i c o t i n a t e ) 5.00 K e l t r o l F ( X a n t h a n Gum) 0.80 Preservative q.s. Water up t o . 1 0 0 . 0 0 Fragrance F l e u r Blanches

0.30

Preparation: ( A ) i s h e a t e d t o 75 d e g r e e s C . , ( B ) i s m i x e d homogeneously, b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e , and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . Perfume i s added a t a b o u t 35 d e g r e e s C . SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n 1 .3U

212

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Botanical Facial Moisturizing Lotion

% by Weight Q . S . t o 100.0 0.15 0.25 3.50 0.15

D. I , Water C a r b o p o l 934 Cycl omethi cone Glycerin M e t h y l Paraben Neobee M-5 C o s m e t i c Drewpol 3-1 -0 Petrolatum Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l S t e a r i c Acid T.P. P r o p y l Paraben DMDM H y d a n t o i n T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Avocado E x t r a c t

2.00 1.50 1.50 1 .oo 2.50 0.10 0.25 0.10 1.65 0.01

M i x i ng Procedure: Combine w a t e r and C a r b o p o l 9 3 4 w i t h good m i x i n g , a g i t a t e u n t i l a t h i n s o l u t i o n f r e e o f lumps i s o b t a i n e d . Add n e x t 3 i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . H e a t t o 165F. P r e p a r e t h e o i l p h a s e b y a d d i n g t o g e t h e r Neobee M-5 C o s m e t i c , D r e w p o l 3 - 1 - 0 , P e t r o l a t u m , Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l , S t e a r i c A c i d T . P . , and P r o p y l P a r a b e n . H e a t t o 165-17OF. Add t h e o i l p h a s e t o t h e w a t e r p h a s e ( b o t h a t 165-17OF) w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . E m u l s i f y f o r 20 m i n u t e s and t h e n b e g i n t o c o o l w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . A t 11OF, add DMDM H y d a n t o i n , T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA, T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , and Avocado E x t r a c t . C o n t i n u e t o cool t o 9OF. A t room t e m p e r a t u r e , a d j u s t pH t o 7 . 0 - 8 . 0 i f n e c e s s a r y . Check v i s c o s i t y . SOURCE: S t e p a n C o . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Lotions

213

Cationic Lotion Formula:

% by W e i g h t

A:

Dei o n i z e d W a t e r G1 y c e r i n e P o l y q u a t e r n i urn 10 V a r i s o f t TA-100 B: A d o l 52 A d o l 62 F i n s o l v TN W h i t e P r o t o p e t 1s ( W i t c o ) Carnation M i neral O i 1 ( W i tco) S t a r f o l OS DC F l u i d 345 DC F l u i d 593 V a r o n i c 63-E-20 Varonic LI-67 C: Preservative

77.25 5.00 0.75 1 .50 1.oo 3.00 2.00 1 .50 1.50 1 .50 1 .oo 1 .50 1 .oo 1 .50 q.s.

Procedure: M i x w a t e r , g l y c e r i n e and P o l y q u a t e r n i u m 10 u n t i l e v e n . S p r i n k l e i n V a r i s o f t TA-100 w i t h m i x i n g . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g a n d h e a t p h a s e A t o 75-8OC. Heat p h a s e B t o 75-8OC. Add p h a s e A t o p h a s e B . C o o l t o 30C w i t h m i x i n g . A d d p r e s e r v a t i v e .

Body Lotion: Water in Oil

Formula: O i l Phase: A b i 1-We 09 A b i l - W a x 9800 Isopropyl Myri s t a t e Carnation Mineral O i 1 ( W i t c o ) PCL L i q u i d ( D r a g o c o ) W h i t e F o n o l ine P e t r o l a t u m ( W i t c o ) W a t e r Phase: Water G1 y c e r o l Sodium C h l o r i d e Perfume, P r e s e r v a t i v e SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

% by Weight

5.0 3.0 6.0 5.0 4.0 3.0 71 . 2 2.0 0.8 q.s.

214

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cromoist CM-Glucan Lotion with Crodafos CES

-

T h i s l o t i o n f e a t u r e s C r o m o i s t CM G l u c a n and C r o d a f o s CES t w o h i g h a c t i v i t y i n g r e d i e n t s t h a t r e f l e c t t o d a y ' s demands f o r t r u l y f u n c t i o n a l p r o d u c t s . C r o m o i s t CM G l u c a n w o r k s b y s t i m u l a t i n g t h e s k i n ' s r e s i s t a n c e t o o x i d a t i v e s t r e s s and i m p r o v e i t s l e v e l o f s k i n own f u n c t i o n . C r o d a f o s CES w o r k s b y e x h i b i t i n g shear t h i n n i n g , p r o d u c i n g a system t h a t p r o v i d e s b e t t e r o i l d e p o s i t i o n , f a s t e r d e l i v e r y o f a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s , and enhanced a p p l i c a t i o n p r o p e r t i e s . The l o t i o n i t s e l f h a s a g l o s s y w h i t e t e x t u r e , a l u b r i c i o u s f e e l and q u i c k r u b - i n . Innredients: Wei q h t % Part A: C r o d a f o s CES ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r y l P h o s p h a t e ) 4.0 Crodamol GTCC ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 5.0 C r o d a c o l C-70 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0.5 V o l p o S-2 ( S t e a r e t h - 2 ) 0.1 V o l p o S-10 ( S t e a r e t h - 1 0 ) 0.5 P a r t B: T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (98%) Dei o n i zed Water

0.2 87.7

Part C: C r o m o i s t CM-Glucan ( S o d i u m C a r b o x y m e t h y l 8 - G l u c a n ) Propylene G l y c o l (and) Diazo1 i d i n y l Urea (and) Methyl Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben pH=5.0+-0.5 Viscosity=5,700

c p s + - 1 0 % (RVT S p i n d l e TC,

1 0 rpm

I3

1.o 1.o 25C)

Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 70C. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 70C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g . Cool t o 45C w i t h m i x i n g . Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f Part C separately. Continue mixing t o desired f i l l temperature.

SOURCE: C r o d a I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n SC-264

Lotions

215

Dihydroxyacetone Lotion Ingredients: Weight% Phase A : C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l EM-90) 1.5 P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 1.o O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 4.0 Isohexadecane 7.0 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0.4 Beeswax 0.4 Phase 6 : C y cl omethi cone 6.0 Phase C: Water 72.9 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 2.0 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.8 Dihydroxyacetone 4.0 Q.S. Preservatives Color Q.S. Phase D : Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1 . B l e n d t h e components o f Phase A . H e a t t o 85C i n a c l o s e d k e t t l e w h i l e m i x i n g u n t i l a l l waxes a r e d i s p e r s e d . 2 . Cool t o 40C. 3 . Add t h e C y c l o m e t h i c o n e . M i x . 4 . H e a t Phase C components t o 40C w h i l e m i x i n g . 5 . Add C t o A/B s l o w l y w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n u n t i l B i s f u l l y d i spersed. 6 . Add f r a g r a n c e w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . 7 . Homogenize. Isolan DO Lotion O/W Cold Process Ingredients: Wei g h t % Phase A : 2.0 M e t h y l g l u c o s e D i o l e a t e ( I s o l an DO) O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 5.0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 5.0 5.0 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) Phase B : Water 79.0 Glycerin 3.0 P r e s e r v a t iv e Q.S. Phase C : Carbomer 1382 0.2 Isopropyl Palmitate (Tegosoft P) 0.8 Phase D: NaOH (10% S o l u t i o n ) a d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 Q.S. Procedure: 1 . M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A and B s e p a r a t e l y . Add B t o A w i t h o u t m i x i n g . 2 . Homogenize A/B, o i l p a r t i c l e s i z e ( 0 . 1 urn. 3 . D i s p e r s e t h e Carbomer 1382 i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r and add t o A/B. S t i r i n t e n s i v e l y f o r 30 m i n u t e s . 4 . Add D and s t i r f o r f i v e additional minutes. T e m p e r a t u r e o f t h e p h a s e s A, B, C , D: a r e 20-25C SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

216

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Emollient Lotion A s y n e r g i s t i c c o m b i n a t i o n o f Veegum and Carbomer i s u s e d t o t h i c k e n and s t a b i l i z e t h i s e l e g a n t c o s m e t i c l o t i o n . The e m o l l i e n t s i n t h i s f o r m u l a were s e l e c t e d f o r t h e i r m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s . The e m u l s i f i c a t i o n f o r t h e f o r m u l a i s p r o v i d e d b y t h e g l y c e r y l m o n o s t e a r a t e and t h e t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e s t e a r a t e (formed i n s i t u ) .

Innredient: Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e Dei o n i zed Water Carbomer 934 ( C a r b o p o l 934)

A:

8: Triethanolamine

W t .%* 0.50 83.66 0.10

0.10

Glycerine

4.00

C: M i n e r a l O i l Petrolatum S t e a r i c A c i d XXX Cetyl Alcohol G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE ( K e s s c o GMS-SE) Cetyl Acetate (and) Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol ( A c e t u 1 an ) D i m e t h i c o n e , 350 c s

D: P r e s e r v a t i v e

4.00 0.44 1.80

0.90 1.60 2.20 0.70 q.s.

Procedure: Add t h e Veegum t o t h e w a t e r s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r u n t i l smooth. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t and m i x u n t i l t h o r o u g h l y d i s p e r s e d . Add t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g e a c h u n t i l u n i f o r m . H e a t P a r t s A+B t o 70-7%. M i x and h e a t t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s t o 75-8OC. Add P a r t C t o P a r t s A+0 w i t h h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . B e g i n c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g s l o w l y and add P a r t D a t 40C o r l o w e r . *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE: R . T , V a n d e r b i l t Co.,

I n c , : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n

No. 378

Lotions

217

Ethnic Hand & Body Lotion % by Weight Q.S. t o 100.0 0.10 0.15 0.10 0.15 1.80 5.00

D , I.Water

T e t r a s o d i um EDTA M e t h y l Paraben P r o D v l Paraben C a r b o p o l 934 T r i e t h a n o l am ne ( 8 8 % ) G1 y c e t i n Neobee M-20 6.50 S t e a r i c A c i d Tech. 3.00 Wecobee S 0.50 Kessco C e t y l A1 c o h o l 0.46 0.10 Kessco GMS P r e S i l i c o n e DC-200 ( 2 0 0 c p s ) 0.10 DMDM H y d a n t o i n 0.25 M i x i n g Procedure: I n t o a s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r e q u i p p e d w i t h m i x i n g , h e a t i n g , and c o o l i ng c a p a b i 1 it i e s , add t h e D . I . W a t e r , T e t r a s o d i um EDTA, M e t h y l P a r a b e n , P r o p y l P a r a b e n , C a r b o p o l 934, and G l y c e r i n . M i x w i t h v e r y good a g i t a t i o n u n t i l t h e r e a r e no l u m p s . Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e ( 8 8 % ) . S t a r t h e a t i n g t o 165-17OF. I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , combine Neobee M-20, S t e a r i c a c i d , Wecobee S , Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l , and Kessco GMS P u r e . H e a t t o 170-175F. Add t o w a t e r p h a s e and e m u l s i f y f o r 20-25 m i n u t e s . S t a r t c o o l i n g . A t lOOF, add S i l i c o n e DC-200. A t 9OF, add DMDM H y d a n t o i n . A t room t e m p e r a t u r e , a d j u s t p H t o 7 . 8 - 8 . 0 i f n e c e s s a r y . Check v i scosi t y . Ethnic Hand & Body Lotion D.

% b y weight^ Q . S T t o 100.0 0.15 10.00 3.00 2 * 00 2.50 0.40

I . Water

M e t h y l Paraben Neobee M - 5 Kessco GMS-Pure Kessco C e t y l A 1 c o h o l Wecobee SS B r i j 78 P r o p y l Paraben 0.05 S i l i c o n e DC-200 ( 3 5 0 c p s ) 1 .oo DMDM H y d a n t o i n 0.25 M i x i ng P ro c ed ur e: I n t o a s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r e q u i p p e d w i t h m i x i n g , h e a t i n g , and c o o l i ng c a p a b i 1 it i e s , p r e p a r e w a t e r p h a s e b y a d d i n g D . I.W a t e r and M e t h y l P a r a b e n . S t a r t m i x i n g and h e a t t o 1 6 0 - 1 6 5 F . I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , p r e p a r e o i l p h a s e b y a d d i n g Neobee M-5, Kessco GMS-Pure, Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l , Wecobee SS, B r i j 7 8 , and P r o p y l P a r a b e n . H e a t t o 165-17OF. I n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n o f w a t e r p h a s e and s l o w l y add o i l p h a s e . E m u l s i f y f o r 20-25 m i n u t e s a t 165-17OF. S t a r t c o o l i n g , A t lOOF, add S i l i c o n e DC-200 and DMDM H y d a n t o i n . A t room t e m p e r a t u r e , a d j u s t pH t o 7 . 8 - 8 . 0 i f n e c e s s a r y . Check v i s c o s i t y ,

SOURCE:

Stepan Co.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

218

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hand and Body Lotion _ F~o_r_m _ _u l a :

? b y Weight A: C a r b o p o l 934 0.15 D e i o n i zed Water 83.45 B: Methylparaben 0.20 Propylparaben 0.10 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 0.80 D i s o d i um EDTA 0.10 G1y c e r i n 5.00 C: Carnation Mineral O i 1 (Witco) 4.00 Stearic Acid 2.00 1 .50 Glycol Stearate Cetyl Acetate/Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol 0.50 Glyceryl Stearate 0.50 D i methicone 0.50 C e t y l A1 coho1 0.20 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 1 .oo Fragrance cl. s Procedure: P a r t A -D i s p e r s e Carbopol i n t o w a t e r under r a p i d a g i t a t i o n , h e a t t o 75C. Comb-ine B i n g r e d i e n t s , add t o A u n d e r m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . S e p a r a t e l y combine C i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t t o 75C. S l o w l y c o m b i n e C t o A-B w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add TEA c o o l i n g w i t h slow a g i t a t i o n t o 45C. Add f r a g r a n c e , c o o l t o room temp.

Cocoa Butter Hand and Body Lotion

Formula: O i l Phase: Glyceryl Stearate H y d r o f o l A c i d 1655CG Carnation Mineral O i 1 (Witco) Ado1 52NF Lanoli n I s o p r o p y l Pal m i t a t e Cocoa B u t t e r Water Phase: V a r o n i c L I -48 Triethanolamine P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l D e i o n i z e d Water Preservatives: M e t h y l Paraberi P r o p y l Paraben

"/.&!L

_w_e_.iMLt 1 .28 2.03 7.50 1.07 0.53 0.57 0.50 1 .60 0.89 1 .60 82.43

0.10 0.05

Procedure: P r e p a r e Water and O i l Phases s e p a r a t e l y . Warm e a c h phase t o 80C. B l e n d O i 1 Phase i n t o W a t e r Phase w i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , Cool s y s t e m w i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n t o 40C. B l e n d i n P r e s e r v a t i v e s . C o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n t o 35C and add d y e and p e r f u m e SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Lotions

219

Hand and Body Lotion F o r mu 1a : A: Veegum P r o Water Glycerin 8: Ervol Mineral O i l (Witco) White Protopet 1s Petrolatum (Witco) A r l a c e l 165 Synchrowax A w l - C C: A1 1a n t o i n P r e s e r v a t iv e

% by W e i g h t

2.00 70.75 6.00

10.00 4.00 5.00 1 .25 1.00 q.s.

Procedure: H e a t t h e w a t e r t o 70-75C, t h e n s l o w l y add Veegum w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum s h e a r . M i x u n t i l s m o o t h . Add g l y c e r i n e and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . H e a t B t o 75-8OC. Add B t o A and m i x u n t i l c o o l Add C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Veegum P r o e f f e c t i v e l y t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l i z e s t h e e m u l s i o n even a t e l e v a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s . I

Depilatory Lotion Formula: A: Water A v e n e l S-150 (PPG-Mazer) C a l c i um H y d r o x i de Me1 ami ne L i t h i um H y d r o x i de B: Macol 124 ( PPG-Mazer) Carnation Mineral O i l (Witco) C: Water T h i o g l y c o l i c A c i d (Witco)

% by Weight

57.1 3.0 6.5 3.0 2.8

6.0 7.0 10.0 4.6

Procedure: B l e n d A i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat A t o 6 5 C . Premix B i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t i n g t o 65C. Add B t o A w i t h h i g h s h e a r a g i t a t i o n . W i t h sweep a g i t a t i o n c o o l b a t c h t o 30C. P r e m i x C a t o r b e l o w room temp. and add s l o w l y t o m a i n b a t c h . M a i n t a i n temp. a t 35C d u r i n g t h e addition.

SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p , : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

220

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hand and Body Lotion

A Veegum and C e l l u l o s e Gum c o m b i n a t i o n i s used e f f e c t i v e l y i n t h i s f o r m u l a t o p r o v i d e e m u l s i o n s t a b i l i z a t i o n and v i s c o s i t y c o n t r o l , The c o m b i n a t i o n o f l i q u i d e m o l l i e n t s p r o v i d e s smooth r u b - i n and n o n - g r e a s y f e e l . S t e a r i c A c i d i s u s e d a s a n o n - g r e a s y o i 1 phase t h i c k e n e r . Ingredient : W t .%* A : Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e 1-00 C e l l u l o s e Gum (CMC 7MF) 0.15 D e i o n i z e d Water 80.75 S i m e t h i c o n e (Dow C o r n i n g A n t i f o a m AF) 0.10 B: M i n e r a l O i l 5.00 M i n e r a l O i 1 ( a n d ) L a n o l in A l c o h o l ( A m e r c h o l L - 1 0 1 ) 4.00 S t e a r i c A c i d XXX 3 .OO G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 165) 4 . 0 0 Lanolin O i l 2.00 C: P r e s e r v a t i v e q.s. Procedure: Add t h e V e e g u m / C e l l u l o s e Gum d r y b l e n d t o t h e w a t e r s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r u n t i l smooth. Add S i m e t h i c o n e a t s l o w m i x i n g speed. H e a t P a r t A t o 70C and P a r t B t o 75C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and m i x w h i l e c o o l i n g . Package a t 40C. F o r m u l a No. 370

Dry Touch Emollient Lotion

Veegum s t a b i l i z e s t h e e m u l s i o n and a d j u s t s t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h i s l o t i o n . The e m o l l i e n t s u s e d f o r t h e s e l o t i o n s w e r e s e l e c t e d f o r t h e i r m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s . The e m u l s i f i c a t i o n f o r t h e s e f o r m u l a s i s p r o v i d e d b y t h e g l y c e r y l m o n o s t e a r a t e and t h e t r i ethanolamine s t e a r a t e (formed i n s i t u ) . W t .%* Inpredient : A : Veegum, 0.50 Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e . 85.50 Water B: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0.10 3.50 G1 y c e r i n 3.60 C: Mineral O i l 0.40 Petrolatum 1 .60 S t e a r i c A c i d XXX 0.80 Cetyl Alcohol 1 .40 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE ( K e s s c o GMS-SE) C e t y l A c e t a t e (and) A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n A l c o h o l 2.00 (Acetul an) 0.60 D i m e t h i c o n e , 350 c s . q.s. D: C o l o r , P r e s e r v a t i v e , Perfume Procedure: Add t h e Veegum t o t h e w a t e r s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r u n t i l smooth. Add t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s t o P a r t A and h e a t t o 70-75C w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Heat t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s t o 75-80C. Add P a r t C t o P a r t s A+B and m i x t h o r o u g h l y w h i l e c o o l i n g . A t 40C add P a r t 0 , m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . F o r m u l a No. 377 *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s SOURCE:

R.T.Vanderbilt

Co.,

I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n s

Lotions

221

Hand and Body Lotion Formula: A: G l u c a t e SS G l u c a m a t e SSE-20 Modul an Stearic Acid Blandol Mineral O i l Aprikol (Bell) Phenoni p ( F a n n i n g ) 8: Glucam E-20 Dei o n i z e d Water D o w i c i l 200 C: P a c i f i c Sea K e l p E x t r a c t Chamomile E x t r a c t Hawai an W h i t e G i n g e r E x t r a c t F r a g r a n c e 5-5390 ( B e l l )

% b y Wei g h t

1 .oo 1 .oo 2.00 2.00 3.00 3.00 0.20 5.00 81 . O O 0.20 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.30

0.50

P r e m i x Tween 20

Procedure: H e a t Phases A and B t o 85C. Add B t o A a t 85C. S t i r and c o o l t o 45C. Add B o t a n i c a l s and F r a g r a n c e . S t i r t o 30C and p a c k a g e .

Rehydrating Body Lotion Formula: A: Water T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA Methylparaben Propylparaben P r o p y l ene G l y c o l C a r b o p o l 940 2% i n Water B: C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) S t e a r i c A c i d XXX A l d o MS ( G l y c o ) Fluilan L i p o n a t e GC F i n s o l v TN B u t y l Paraben C: T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% D: Aloe-Moi s t ( T e r r y )

% by Weight

60.68 0.04 0.16 0.08 4.00 5.60 5.60 2.00 2.40 0.40 2.40 0.04 0.04 0.80 15.00

Procedure: Add B a t 80C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add C and s t i r 1 5 m i n u t e s a t 80C. Cool t o 55C and add 0 . Cool t o 30C. SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

222

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hand and Body Lotion A n o n - t a c k y , m o i s t u r i z i n g h a n d and b o d y l o t i o n w i t h n a t u r a l s k i n f e e l , c o n t a i n i n g- C l a r i s k i n f o r e l i m i n a t i n g b r o w n age s p o t s . 36w/w Ingredients: 78.90 1 D i s t i 11 e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . D i s o d i u m EDTA 0.10 3 . A c r i t a m e r 941 ( C a r b o m e r ) 0.20 4. Propylene Glycol 0.80 5. Glycerine 5.00 6 . Methylparaben 0.20 7. Propylparaben 0.10 8 , M i n e r a l O i 1 ( D r a k e 0 1 -21 ) 4.00 9. Stearic Acid 2.00 1.50 1 0 . R i t a EGMS ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e ) 1 1 . R i t a w a x ALA ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 0.50 1 2 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A1 c o h o l ) 0.50 0.20 1 3 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 1 4 . R i t a s i l 190 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ) 0.50 0.50 15.Triethanolamine 1 6 . C l a r i s k i n (Yeast E x t r a c t ) 5.00 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 2 i n t o t h e w a t e r u n t i l u n i f o r m and add i t e m 2 . M i x i t e m s 4-7 and add t o t h e c o m b i n e d i t e m s 1 - 3 , t h a n h e a t t o 65C. M i x i t e m s 8 - 1 4 a n d h e a t t o 65C. Add o i l p h a s e t o w a t e r p h a s e . H o l d t e m p e r a t u r e a t 65C and add i t e m 1 5 . C o o l t o 40C and add i t e m 1 6 . R e f . No. 122-888

.

Hand Lotion

A non-greasy hand l o t i o n d esi g n ed f o r normal s k i n . Ingredients: %w/w 1. Mineral O i 1 (Light) 3.00 2. Stearic Acid 2.50 3 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 2.00 4 . R i t a w a x ALA ( C e t y l A c e t a t e and A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n A1 c o h o l ) 0.75 5 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0.50 6 . Propylparaben 0.05 7 . A c r i t a m e r 934 ( C a r b o m e r ) 0.10 8 . D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i z e d W a t e r 81 - 8 5 9 . Methylparaben 0.10 10 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (50%) 0.65 3.50 11 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 12.Fragrance q.s. 1 3 . T e n s i n e (Wheat P r o t e i n ) 5.00 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : S l o w l y add i t e m 7 t o i t e m 8 w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add i t e m 9 and h e a t t o 70C. Combine i t e m s 1 - 6 and h e a t t o 70C. Add i t e m s 10 and 11 t o w a t e r . Add o i l t o w a t e r w i t h m i x i n g . B e g i n c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g . Add i t e m s 12 and 1 3 . R e f . No. 122-2A SOURCE: R , I , T . A . C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

.

Lotions

Hand & Body Lotion F o r mu 1a : A: D e i o n i z e d Water B: Polysorbate-20 Methylparaben E t h y l paraben C: G1 y c e r i n X a n t h a n Gum D: Sesame O i l Carnation Mineral O i 1 ( W i t c o ) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e & PEG-100 S t e a r a t e Sorbitan Stearate Cetyl Alcohol M i n e r a l O i 1 and L a n o l in A1 coho1 ( A m e r c h o l ) D i m e t h i cone BHA M e t h o c e l 40-100 Vitamin E O i l Stearic Acid

223

% by Weight

72.15 2.00 0.20 0.15

3.00 0.12 4.00 1 .oo 3.00 2.00 1.00 3.00 0.50 0.05 0.10 0.01 1.50

E: Dei o n i z e d Water 1.50 D o w i c i l 200 0.10 F: Dei o n i zed Water 1.oo C o l 1agen 0.01 Elastin 0.01 G: Fragrance 0.10 Procedure: H e a t A t o 70-8OC. Combine B i n g r e d i e n t s and warm. Add t o A a t 75-80C, c o m b i n e C i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x w e l l t o p r e - w e t x a n t h a n . Add t o A . Weigh D i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o s t e a m - j a c k e t e d k e t t l e and h e a t t o 80C. Add t o w a t e r p h a s e . T u r n h e a t o f f and m i x e m u l s i o n down t o 45C. P r e p a r e E , add t o b a t c h a t 45C. Add F a t 45C. Add G t o emulsion.

Light Conditioning Hand Lotion Formula: % by W e i a h t A : G1 u c q u a t 100 1.0 84.0 Dei o n i zed Water 0.8 B : G l u c a t e SS 1.2 Gl ucamate SSE-20 2 .o Acetulan 0.5 G l y c e r y l Monostearate Carnation Mineral O i l (Witco) 7.5 Perfume and P r e s e r v a t i v e q.s. Procedure: D i s s o l v e G l u q u a t 100 i n w a t e r and h e a t t o 70C. I n s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , c o m b i n e B and h e a t t o 70C w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add A t o B and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . C o o l t o room temperature with mixing. SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t i ons

224

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Incroquat Behenyl TMS Lotion T h i s b a s i c f o r m u l a t i o n shows how I n c r o q u a t B e h e n y l TMS c a n f o r m a s t a b l e and e l e g a n t , y e t s i m p l e , e m u l s i o n . The s o f t / p o w d e r y f e e l i t c o n f e r s on t h e s k i n i s d u e t o t h e c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s o f t h e behenyl q u a t . Ingredients: Wei n h t % Part A: I n c r o q u a t B e h e n y l TMS ( B e h e n t r i m o n i u m M e t h o s u l f a t e ( a n d ) 3.00 Cetearyl Alcohol) Crodamol GTCC ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 5.00 D i m e t h i c o n e 200 (200 c p s ) 1.00 V o l p o S-2 ( S t e a r e t h - 2 ) 0.10 V o l p o S-10 ( S t e a r e t h - 1 0 ) 0.50 P a r t B: Dei o n i zed Water

77.40

P a r t C: Dei o n i zed Water H y d r o t r i t i c u m 2000 ( H y d r o l y z e d Whole Wheat P r o t e i n )

5.00 1 .oo

P a r t D: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) and P r o p y l p a r a b e n Crodasome CM-Glucan ( S o d i u m C a r b o x y m e t h y l B - G l u c a n ) I n c r o m e c t a n t LAMEA ( A c e t a m i d e MEA ( a n d ) L a c t a m i d e MEA)

1 .oo 1.00 5.00

pH=4.5+-0.5 Viscosity=9,000

c p s + - 1 0 % (RVT S p i n d l e #TC,

10 rpm, 25C)

Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-80C. H e a t P a r t B t o 75-80C. Add P a r t A t o B w i t h m i x i n g . Cool w i t h m i x i n g t o 50C and add P a r t s C and D . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o desired f i l l temperature.

SOURCE:

Croda,

Inc.:

F o r m u l a t i o n SC-268

Lotions

225

High SPF-30 Lotion Cold Process Active Ingredients: O c t y l Methoxycinnamate O c t y l S a l ic y 1 a t e T i t a n i um D i o x i d e

3% 3% 2%

Inqredients: Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i 1 WE-09) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) C y c l o m e t h i cone O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) P o l ydecene C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9 8 0 1 ) O c t y l M e t h o x y c i nnamate O c t y l S a l ic y l a t e

Wei n h t %

Phase B : Water Sodium C h l o r i d e H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l ose T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (40% aq. d i s p e r s i o n ) Preservatives Fragrance Color

5.00

3.00 3.00 3.00 2.00 2.00 1 .oo 3.00

3.00 68.40 0.80 0.80 5.00 Q.S.

Q.S. Q.S.

Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o g e t h e r . M i x w e l l . 2. Dissolve t h e Hydroxyethyl C e l l u l o s e i n t o t h e v o r t e x o f t h e a g i t a t i n g water phase. A l l o w t h e c e l l u l o s e t o f u l l y h y d r a t e p r i o r t o a d d i n g t h e s o d i u m c h l o r i d e . Add T i 0 2 (40% a q . d i s p e r s i o n ) . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e s . 3 . Add Phase B s l o w l y i n t o Phase A w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . 4 , Homogeni z e . 5 . F r a g r a n c e and c o l o r c a n be added upon f o r m i n g t h e e m u l s i o n .

SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p , : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

226

Low pH Glycolic Acid Lotion with 18-8 Glycyrrhetinic Acid Phytosome An AHA l o t i o n c o n t a i n i n g L i p 0 F r u i t A c i d Complex f o r s o f t e r s m o o t h e r s k i n and 18-6 G l y c y r r h e t i n i c A c i d Phytosome w h i c h s h o u l d make t h i s more a c c e p t a b l e t o s e n s i t i v e s k i n . Sequence : 1 1 1 1

-__ Raw M a t e r i a1 : Dei o n i zed Water Hypan QT-100 ( 1 % g e l ) Benzyl Alcohol FG-10 A n t i foam S i meth ic o n e Emu1 s i on

Wt% 52 65 0.20 0.50 0.10 I

2 2 2 2 2

L i p o n a t e NPGC-2 Lipocol C L i pomul s e 165 DC S i l i c o n e 200/350 c t s . Lipowax D

5.00 1.75 5.00 0.50 3.00

3 3

L i p o n i c EG-1 18-8 G l y c y r r h e t i n i c A c i d Phytosome

6.00 0.50

4

L i p 0 F r u i t A c i d Complex

5.00

Procedure: 1 . I n m a i n k e t t l e , combine Sequence #1 i n g r e d i e n t s u n d e r homogen i z e r and h e a t t o 75C. 2 . I n a u x i l i a r y k e t t l e , combine Sequence #2 i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 80C. 3 . A t p r o p e r t e m p e r a t u r e , add combined Sequence #2 t o Sequence #1 u n d e r h o m o g e n i z e r and c o n t i n u e t o homogenize u n t i l e r n u l s i f i c a t i o n i s c o m p l e t e and a l l Hypan Gel p a r t i c l e s a r e n o t v i s i b l e . B e g i n t o c o o l and s w i t c h t o l i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g . 4 . Cool t o 40C and add p r e m i x e d Sequence #3 i n t o b a t c h m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d and b a t c h i s u n i f o r m . Cool t o 25C w i t h sweep b l a d e a t l o w speed. 5 . A t 25C, add Sequence # 4 i n t o b a t c h . 6 . A d j u s t pH t o 3 . 8 - 4 . 1 w i t h a p p r o p r i a t e b u f f e r .

SOURCE:

L i p 0 C h e m i c a l s I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n No. 891

Lotions

227

Moisturizing Lotion Ingredient : W t .%* A : G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 5 6 1 ) 2 . 0 0 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( L e x o l IPM) 1-00 G l v c o l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul EGMSl 0.50 0.50 Mineral O i l 1.oo A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l in A1 coho1 1 .oo Cetyl Alcohol 1-00 Stearic Acid 0.50 Cyclomethicone 0.05 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 4.00 B : S o r b i t o 1 , 70% 0.30 Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i 1 ic a t e 9.s. T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% t o p H 7 . 0 0.20 Carbomer 934 0.15 M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d M) 87.80 Dei o n i z e d W a t e r Procedure: Weigh t h e w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and h e a t t o 70C w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h a h o m o g e n i z e r a t 5000 rpm. Add t h e Veegum s l o w l y and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 20 m i n u t e s . A d d t h e S o r b i t o l and M e t h y l Paraben and m i x e a c h f o r 3 m i n u t e s a t 5000 rpm. Add t h e Carbomer 934 and m i x f o r 3 m i n u t e s . Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l . M i x and h e a t t o 70C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B and m i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 70C. Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r , a d j u s t t h e speed t o p r o d u c e a s m a l l v o r t e x , and b e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 40C, measure t h e pH and a d j u s t t o 7 . 0 u s i n g T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and p a c k a g e a t 35C.

Collagen Lotion The Veegum/Rhodigel m i x t u r e s t a b i l i z e s t h e e m u l s i o n and a d j u s t s t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h i s c o l d p r o c e s s l o t i o n . The l o t i o n p r o v i d e s an e l e g a n t f e e l i n b o t h i n i t i a l a p p l i c a t i o n and i n t h e residual f i l m . W t .%* Inqredient: 1-00 A : Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e 0.50 R h o d i g e l , X a n t h a n Gum D e i o n i z e d Water 76.25 6.00 B : G1 y c e r i n Soluble Collagen (Collasol) 5.00 A1 1a n t o i n 0.25 4.00 C: H y d r o g e n a t e d P o l y i s o b u t y l ene ( P o l y s y n l a n e ) M i n e r a l O i l ( a n d ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l (Amerchol L-101) 3.00 C10-30 C h o l e s t e r o l / L a n o s t e r o l E s t e r s ( S u p e r S t e r o l Ester) 2.00 DEA-Oleth-3 P h o s p h a t e ( C r o d a f o s N-3 N e u t r a l ) 1 .oo D i m e t h i c o n e , 350 c s . (Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d ) 1.oo D : P r e s e r v a t iv e q.s. Procedure: D r y b l e n d Veegum and R h o d i g e l and add them t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r u n t i l smooth. Add P a r t B i n o r d e r , m i x i n g e a c h u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Combine P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s , s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add P a r t C t o P a r t s A+B. M i x u n t i l homogeneous. *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o , , I n c . : F o r m u l a s : I n o l e x C h e r n i c a l / # 3 8 1

228

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisturizing Lotion Inqredient : W t .%* A: Pentaerythrit y l Tetralaurate 5.00 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e 5.00 Mineral O i l 2.50 Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol 1.00 1 .oo D i met h ic o n e Stearic Acid 1 .oo Stearyl Alcohol 0.50 Cetyl Alcohol 0.50 B: D e i o n i z e d Water 78.00 Veegum HV, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e 0.30 Carbomer 934, 3% S o l n . ( C a r b o p o l 9 3 4 ) 5.00 C : T r i e t h a n o l ami ne, 9945 0.20 P r e s e r v a t ive q.s. Procedure: P r e p a r e t h e 3% Carbomer s o l u t i o n i n a c c o r d a n c e w i t h t h e manuf a c t u r ’ s r e c o m m e n d a t i o n s . Weigh t h e P a r t B w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and h e a t t o 50C. W h i l e m i x i n g t h e w a t e r w i t h a h o m o g e n i z e r a t 5000 rpm, s l o w l y add t h e Veegum HV and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 20 m i n u t e s w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 75F. Add t h e Carbomer s o l u t i o n and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g . Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l . M i x and h e a t t o 75C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B and m i x f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s a t 75C. Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o p r o d u c e a s m a l l v o r t e x . B e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 45C, add t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . A t 40C, add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and p a c k a g e a t 35c. Formul a f rom Rhone-Poul enc, In c . Silicone Barrier Lotion I n t h i s f o r m u l a , Veegum i s u s e d a l o n g w i t h R h o d i g e l X a n t h a n Gum t o s t a b i l i z e t h e e m u l s i o n and a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y . T h i s l o t i o n u s e s a s i l i c o n e f l u i d t o a c h i e v e an e m o l l i e n t p r o t e c t i v e b a r r i e r w i t h a p l e a s a n t n o n - g r e a s y f e e l . S t e a r i c A c i d i s u s e d as a n o n - g r e a s y o i l phase t h i c k e n e r . The Span/Tween c o m b i n a t i o n provides t h e e m u l s i f i c a t i o n f o r t h i s formula. Lotion v i s c o s i t y i s a d j u s t e d b y c h a n g i n g t h e Veegum/Rhodigel l e v e l . Ingredient: W t .%* A : Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e 1-00 0.25 Rhodi g e l , X a n t h a n Gum Water 80.75 5.00 B : P h e n y l T r i m e t h i c o n e (Dow C o r n i n g 556 F l u i d ) 5.00 S t e a r i c A c i d XXX 4.50 P o l y s o r b a t e 20 (Tween 2 0 ) 3.50 S o r b i t a n L a u r a t e (Span 2 0 ) C : P r e s e r v a t ive q.s. Procedure: Add t h e Veegum/Rhodigel d r y b l e n d t o t h e w a t e r s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r u n t i l s m o o t h . H e a t P a r t A t o 70C. H e a t P a r t B t o 75C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and m i x whi l e c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Add P a r t C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . F o r m u l a No. 374 As r e c e i v e d b a s i s SOURCE: R , T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c , : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n s

*

Lotions

229

O/W Hand & Body Lotion % b y Wei Qht

Ingredients: A . G l y c e r y l Monostearate Cetyl Alcohol C e t i o l LC S i l i c o n e 200/100 c s E d e t a BD Phenon ip Amphisol A

4.00 1 .oo 10.00 0.50 0.10 0.60 1.51

B. D e i o n i z e d W a t e r AMP R e g u l a r ( 1 0 % s o l ' n )

10.00 4.00

C.

D e i o n i zed W a t e r Pemulen TR-1 1% s o l n P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l

52.69 10.00 5.00

D.

AMP R e g u l a r ( 1 0 % s o l ' n )

E.

Perfume O i l

0.60 q.s.

Procedure: Heat p a r t A t o 85C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . When homogeneous, add p a r t B p r e - h e a t e d t o 7 5 C , w h i l e m i x i n g . Add p a r t s C and D p r e h e a t e d t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g . C o o l t o 40C, add p a r t E . Compensate f o r w a t e r l o s s and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g , w h i l e c o o l i n g t o a m b i e n t temperature. Remark: b ) Recommended p e r c e n t a g e o f s u i t a b l e d e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d p e r f u m e f o r cream 0 . 5 % . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0374E s u g g e s t e d b y G i v a u d a n - R o u r e SA Aculyn 33 Hand Lotion

_Ingredients: A.

B.

96 b y W e i g h t t o 100% 0.30 0.15 20.00 5.00 3.00 3.00

Water I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a EDTA Na2 Cetearyl glycoside Isopropyl myri s t a t e A c u l y n 33 AMP-95 ( 1 0 % s o l n . )

Procedure: Mix t h e ingredients i n t h e order l i s t e d . Physical Characteristics: pH: 7 . 4 V i s c o s i t y ( 6 r p m ) : 12,000 c p s F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0388 s u g g e s t e d b y Rohm and Haas C o .

SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l C o r p . :

Product Formulary

(PF-034)

230

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pearlized Body Lotion Phase# : 1 1

Wt% Dei o n i zed Water P e a r l e s c e n t P i gment

q.s. 2.00-5.00

(Rona)

2

C a r b o p o l 941

0.40

3 3

P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l M e t h y l Paraben

8.00 0.20

4

D i s o d i um EDTA

0.05

5 5

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% Dei o n i zed w a t e r

0.60 2.00

6

C r o d e s t a SL40

3.00

7 7 7 7

M i n e r a l O i l 9Ocs Schercemol 185 C r i l l 6 P r o p y l Paraben

4.00

1.oo 0.10

8

DMDM H y d a n t o i n 55%

0.18

9

Fragrance

0.10

Procedure: Combine phase 7 , h e a t t o 80C w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l homogeneous Combine p h a s e 1, h e a t t o 70C. Add p h a s e 2 w h i l e h o m o g e n i z i n g . Combine p h a s e 3 , add t o b a t c h . Add p h a s e 4 . Combine p h a s e 5, add t o b a t c h . Add p h a s e 6 . H e a t t o 75C. Add c o m b i n e d p h a s e 7, m a i n t a i n h o m o g e n i z e r a g i t a t i o n for 1 5 m i n u t e s . C o o l t o 45C, add p h a s e s 8 , 9 . C o o l t o 30C. Rona P e a r l P i gment Combi n a t io n s : EM1 -55-1 T i m i r o n Super G o l d

2%

EM1 - 5 5 - 2

T i m i r o n Super Red

2%

EM1 -5 5-3

T i m i r o n Super V i o l e t

2%

EM1 - 5 5 - 4

T i m i r o n Super B l u e

2%

EM1 - 5 5 - 5

T i m i r o n Super Green

2%

EM1 - 5 5 - 6

T i m i r o n Super Copper

2%

SOURCE:

Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n EM1-55

Lotions

231

Protective Lotion with Cromoist CM Glucan T h i s l o t i o n i s i d e a l f o r e v e r y d a y u s e due t o t h e p r o t e c t i v e e f f e c t s o f C r o m o i s t CM G l u c a n on t h e s k i n and i s e s p e c i a l l y b e n e f i c i a l b e f o r e and a f t e r e x p o s u r e t o t h e s u n . By s t i m u l a t i n g t h e s k i n ’ s own d e f e n s e mechanisms, t h e p o w e r f u l p r o t e c t a n t a n d t h e r a p e u t i c agent i s a b l e t o i n c r e a s e t h e s k i n ’ s r e s i s t a n c e t o U V - A i n d u c e d o x i d a t i v e s t r e s s and o t h e r e n v i r o n m e n t a l i n s u l t s . C r o d a f o s CES i s a u n i q u e c o n d i t i o n i n g and e m u l s i f y i n g s y s t e m t h a t enhances t h e p r o t e c t i v e and e m o l l i e n t e f f e c t s o f t h e l o t i o n b y p r o m o t i n g b e t t e r d e l i v e r y o f C r o m o i s t CM G l u c a n and Crodamol PMP, t h e e m o l l i e n t e s t e r u s e d t o r e d u c e t h e g r e a s i n e s s o f t h e petrolatum. InQredients: Wei q h t % Part A: C r o d a f o s CES ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r y l P h o s p h a t e ) 4.0 Crodamol PMP (PPG-2 M y r i s t y 1 E t h e r P r o p i o n a t e ) 5.0 Petrolatum 2.0 P a r t B: D e i o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (98%)

75.8 0.2

Part C: Dei o n i zed Water C o l 1a s o l ( S o l u b l e C o l 1a g e n )

5.0 1.o

P a r t D: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) M e t h y l paraben (and) Propylparaben C r o m o i s t CM-Glucan ( S o d i u m C a r b o x y m e t h y l B - G l u c a n ) I n c r o m e c t a n t LAMEA ( A c e t a m i d e MEA ( a n d ) L a u r a m i d e MEA)

1. o 1.o 5.0

pH=4.5+-0.5 Viscosity=6,000

c p s + - 1 0 % (RVT S p i n d l e # TC @ 10 r p m @ 25C)

Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-8OC Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-8OC. Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A t o B w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C and D w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l temperature.

SOURCE:

C r o d a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-266

232

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Rain Forest Lotion with Cronatural Brazil Nut Oil T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n p r o d u c e s a s h i n y w h i t e , pumpable l o t i o n w i t h e x c e l l e n t r u b - i n c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s and d r i e s q u i c k l y t o a v e r y c o n d i t i o n e d s o f t n e s s . C r o n a t u r a l B r a z i l Nut O i l i m p a r t s a d r y emollient feel without a h i n t o f oiliness. Ingredients: WtSb Part A: I n c r o m i n e BB (Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine) 3.0 Crodacid B (Behenic A c i d ) 2.5 M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) 15.0 C r o n a t u r a l B r a z i l Nut O i l 5.0 P a r t 8: Dei o n i zed W a t e r 73.5 Part C: Propylene g l y c o l (and) d i a z o l i d i n y l urea (and) methyl paraben (and) p r o p y l paraben* 1.o pH: 7 . 5 t - 0 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 3 , 0 0 0 c p s + - 1 0 % (RVT S p i n d l e # 5 , 50 rpm (3 25C) Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 80-85C. H e a t P a r t B t o 80-85C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l temperature. *Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n L a b s ) N . A . T . C . Approved SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-245 Dihydroxyacetone Lotion Phase A : A b i l EM-90 1.5 A b i 1 WE-09 1. o A b i l B 8839 6.0 T e g o s o f t OS 4.0 Isohexadecane 7.0 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0.4 Beeswax 0.4 Phase B : Water 72.9 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 2.0 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.8 Dihydroxyacetone 4.0 P r e s e r v a t iv e s Q.S. Color Q.S. Phase C : Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1 . B l e n d t h e components o f Phase A . H e a t t o 85C i n a c l o s e d k e t t l e w h i l e m i x i n g u n t i l a l l waxes a r e d i s p e r s e d . 2 . Cool t o 40C. 3 . H e a t Phase B components t o 40C w h i l e m i x i n g . 4 . Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n u n t i l B i s f u l l y d i spersed. 5 . Add f r a g r a n c e w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . 6 . Homogenize. SOURCE : Go1 dschmi d t Chemi c a l C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i on

w

Lotions

233

Skin Firming Lotion A l i g h t s k i n l o t i o n c o n t a i n i n g R a f f e r m i n e t o enhance t h e firmness o f the skin. Ingredients: 1 . S t e a r i c Acid 2 . Soy G l y c e r i d e s 3 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( C e t e a r y l A1 coho1 a n d P o l y s o r b a t e - 6 0 ) 4 . C a p r y l ic / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s 5 . Methylparaben 6. Propyl paraben 7 . C12-15 A l k y l B e n z o a t e 8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 9 . A c r i t a m e r 940 ( C a r b o m e r ) 1 0 . M e t h y l G1 u c e t h - 2 0 11 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 1 2 . R a f f e r m i n e ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy F l o u r ) 13.TEA (50%)

.

%w/w 3.10 3.10 1.20 2.50 0.15 0.05 1.50 79.10 0.15 3.00 3.20 2.00 0.50

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1-7 and h e a t t o 70C. Combine i t e m s 8 , 10 and 1 1 . H e a t t o 70C w h i l e d i s p e r s i n g i t e m 9 . Add o i l t o w a t e r . Add TEA and m i x w h i l e c o o l i n g . A t 40C add i t e m 1 2 . R e f . No. 121-125 Facial Moisturizing Lotion E l e g a n t m i n e r a l o i 1 and 1a n o l in b a s e d emu1 s i on f o r m u l a t e d w i t h P o l y q u t a t o add s u b s t a n t i v i t y t o t h e s k i n and R i t a s i l 190 f o r pleasant skin feeling. Inqredients: 1 . Ritapro-165 (R.I.T.A. Blend) 2. Mineral O i l 3 . L a n o l i n USP ( R . I . T . A . X - t r a Deo) 4 . R i t a p r o 100 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 5 . R i t a s i l 190 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ) 6 . D i s t i 11 e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 7 . P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 8 . P o l y q u t a 3000 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i um-1 0 ) 9 . G1 y d a n t 10 . F r a g r a n c e - L i g h t Musk 169-119

4.00 5.00 0.50 1-50 0.40 81.70 6.00 0.50 0.20 0.20

Cornpoundi n g P r o c e d u r e : D i s s o l v e P o l y q u t a 3000 i n w a t e r . Add i t e m 7 and h e a t t o 70C. S e p a r a t e l y h e a t i t e m s 1 - 5 t o 70C. Add t h i s m i x t u r e t o w a t e r m i x t u r e . M i x t o u n i f o r m and c o o l t o 40C. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and perfume. R e f . No. 121-89

SOURCE: R.I.T.A. C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

234

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Therapeutic Hand & Body Lotion Raw M a t e r i a1 : 1 . D . I . Water 2 . M e t h y l Paraben 3. G l y c e r i n e 4 . B r i j 78 5. O c t y l Isononanoate 6 . Kessco GMS 7 . Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l 8 . Wecobee S 9 . P r o p y l Paraben 1 0 . S i l i c o n e 200 ( 3 5 0 c p s ) 11 G I y d a n t 1 2 , C i t r i c A c i d 50% lB.Fragrance, Color

.

W t % (as-.is) Q . S . t o 100.00 0.15 3.5 0.4 10.0 3.0 2.0 2.5 0.01 1 .o 0.25 Q.S.

Q.S.

P r o p e r t ie s : A p p e a r a n c e : Opaque L o t i o n p H @ 25C: 6 . 0 - 7 . 0 M i x i ng P r o c e d u r e : P r e p a r e w a t e r p h a s e b y a d d i n g 1 , 2 and 3 . H e a t t o 70C. P r e p a r e o i l p h a s e b y a d d i n g 4 , 5 , 6 , 7 , 8 a n d 9 . H e a t t o 70C. Add o i l p h a s e t o t h e w a t e r p h a s e . I n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n . M i x a t 70C f o r 20-25 m i n u t e s . S t a r t c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h c o n t i n u o u s a g i t a t i o n . A t 45C, add 10 and 1 1 . A d j u s t pH i f n e c e s s a r y . Cool t o ambient temperature. Ethnic Hand & Body Lotion D . I.W a t e r G1 y c e r i n Ammonyx 4 Petrolatum Kessco I P P S i l i c o n e DC-200 ( 3 5 0 c p s ) Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l P o t a s s i um C h l o r i d e C i t r i c A c i d (50%) P r e s e r v a t iv e

% by Weight Q.S. t o 100.0 4.00 18.40 4.00 3.00 1.oo 2-00 0.40

Q.S. Q.S.

M i x i n g Procedure: I n t o a s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r e q u i p p e d w i t h m i x i n g , h e a t i n g , and c o o l i n g c a p a b i l i t i e s , add t h e D . I . W a t e r , G l y c e r i n , and Ammonyx 4 . S t a r t m i x i n g and h e a t i n g t o 155-16OF. A t 155-160F, add P e t r o l atum, Kessco I P P , S i l i c o n e DC-200, and Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l . M i x w e l l f o r 20 m i n u t e s , k e e p i n g h e a t a t 1 6 0 F . S t a r t c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . A t lOOF, p r e m i x p o t a s s i u m c h l o r i d e w i t h s m a l l amount o f D . I . W a t e r and add t o t h e b a t c h . A t 9OF, add p r e s e r v a t i v e . A t room t e m p e r a t u r e , a d j u s t p H t o 4 . 0 - 4 . 5 i f n e c e s s a r y w i t h c i t r i c a c i d (50%). SOURCE: S t e p a n C o , : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Lotions

235

Under Make-Up Lotion A n o n - g r e a s y , p r o t e c t i v e day cream c o n t a i n i n g T e n s i n e and R e d u c t i n e t o f i r m t h e s k i n and h e l p r e d u c e f i n e l i n e s . -~ Insredi

ents:. 1 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 2 . Ceteareth-25 3 . Rita IPP (Isopropyl Palmitate) 4 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( C e t e a r y ! A l c o h o l a n d P o l y s o r b a t e - 6 0 ) 5 . Methylparaben 6 . Propylparaben 7 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 8 . Propylene Glycol 9 . T e n s i ne (Wheat P r o t e i n ) 10.Reductine (Oat P r o t e i n ) 11.TEA (99%) 12. Fragrance

%J/' 8.00 3.00

5.00 5.00 0 * 20 0.10 62.50 5.00

6.00 5.00

q.s. 0.20

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 - 6 and h e a t t o 70C. Combine i t e m s 8 and 9 arid h e a t t o 70C. Add o i l t o w a t e r and m i x . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 40C and add i t e m s 9 - 1 2 . R e f . No. 120-195 Under Make-Up Lotion A n o n - g r e a s y , p r o t e c t i v e day cream c o n t a i n i n g T e n s i n e and R e d u c t i n e t o f i r m t h e s k . i n and h e l p r e d u c e f i n e l i n e s . Im

edients:

% W A

.~

1 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 2 . C e t e a r e t h - 6 and S t e a r y l A l c o h o l 3 . Rita IPP (Isopropyl Palmitate)

4 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l a n d P o l y s o r b a t e - 6 0 ) 5 . Methylparaben 6 . Propylparaben 7 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 8 . Propylene Glycol 9 . T e n s i n e (Wheat P r o t e i n ) 1 0 . R e d u c t i ne ( O a t P r o t e i n ) 1 1 . T E A (99%) 12.Fragrance

8.00 3.00 5.00 5.00 0.20 0.10 62.50 5.00 6.00 5.00 q.s. 0.20

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1-6 and h e a t t o 70C. Combine i t e m s 8 and 9 and h e a t t o 7OC. Add o i l t o w a t e r and m i x . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 40C and add i t e m s 9-12. R e f . N o . 120-196

SOURCE:

R.I.T.A.

C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

256

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Water-in-Oil Moisturizing Lotion Formula: A: Veegum Water Magnesium Sulfate B: Carnation Mineral Oil (Witco) Polysynlane Ni mlesterol D Amerchol L101 70% Sorbitol Solution Witcamide 511 Preservative

% by WeIght 1 .3 55.7 0.5 9.0 10.0 7.5 9.0 5.0 2.0 q.s.

Procedure: Add Veegum to water slowly, a g i t a t i n g c o n t i n u a l l y u n t i l smooth. Add magnesium sulfate and mix u n t i l smooth. Blend B and add A to B. Mix u n t i l smooth and uniform. This formula is a r i c h , pourable or pumpable lotion and may be dispensed from a s u i t a b l e glass or p l a s t i c bottle. Facial Lotion Formul a : % _ b y Weight Water Phase: Water q.s. to 100 Triethanolamine 0.2 O i 1 Phase: Carnation Mineral Oil (Witco) 4.0 Steari c Aci d 1.0 Naturechem GMHS (CasChem) 2.5 Lanoli n O i 1 2.0 I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben 0,2 Fragrance O,3

Procedure: Heat both phases to 75C. Add o i l phase to water phase w i t h h i g h speed m i x i n g . A l l o w to cool and continue m i x i n g to 35C; add preservative and fragrance; mix thoroughly.

SOURCE: Witco Corp,: Suggested Formulations

Lotions

237

W/O Lotion, EO-free with Softisan 649 Inaredients: Wei a h t % A . M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 8.00 M i g l y o l 840 ( P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l / D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ) 8.00 S o f t i s a n 649* 5.00 A r l a c e l 1689 ( P o l y g l y c e r i n ( a n d ) S o r b i t o l ) 4.00 A r l a m o l HD ( I s o h e x a d e c a n e ) 3.00 2.00 q.s. 100.00

B . Magnesium S u l p h a t e

Preservative Water, ad

C.

*

Fragrance

q.s.

B i s-Di g l y c e r y l P o l y a c y l a d i pate-2

P r e p a r a t ion : A i s h e a t e d u p a t a b o u t 75C. 6 i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e . A i s e m u l s i f i e d w i t h an h o m o g e n i z e r i n t o A . C i s added a t 30C. F o r m u l a t i o n HUK WOL New "Light Lotion" with Imwitor 375 Inqredients : M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) I m w i t o r 375 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e / L i n o l e a t e / 01 e a t e )

A.

3.00 0.75 q.s. 100.00

6 . N a t r o s o l P l u s 330 CS Preservative W a t e r , ad

C.

Wei q h t % 16.25

Fragrance

q.s.

P r e p a r a t ion : I n g r e d i e n t s o f A a r e h e a t e d t o a b o u t 70C. To b u i l d p h a s e B N a t r o s o l i s d i s p e r s e d i n w a t e r and s t i r r e d t o homogenei t y Then B i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o A. The cream i s s t i r r e d c o l d and t h e n C i s added. F o r m u l a t i o n HUK LL

.

SOURCE: H u l s A k t i e n g e s e l l s c h a f t :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Cosmetic and 7ililrtry Fontidations

238

2% AHA Low Viscosity Lotion with Uninontan U-34

An AHA L i p 0 F r u i t A c i d l o t i o n w i t h U n i n o n t a n U-34 and G o r g o n i a n E x t r a c t t o p r o v i d e an even s k i n t o n e and h e l p m i n i m i z e s k i n i r r i t a t i o n . T h i s f o r m u l a a l s o c o n t a i n s a b a l a n c e d emulsi f i e r s y s t e m f o r e x c e l l e n t s t a b i l i t y and a v a r i e t y o f e m o l l i e n t s / moisturizers f o r s k i n softness. Seque n ge 1 1 1

w.ei PI-! %

R_ay M a t e r 1 a1 : Dei on1 z e d Water U n i p h e n P-23 L i p o n i c EG-1

76.64 0.50 1.50

Keltrol Veegum

0.25 0.15

Ultrapure L L i p 0 GMS 450 L i p o p e g 6 0 0 0 DS Lipowax G Lipowax P Lipocol C L i p o n a t e NPGC-2 L i p o v o l SAF L i D o v o l SES

1.50 1.50 1.75 0.25 0.45 1.oo 4.00

4

Uni n o n t a n U-34

5.00

5 6

Gorgonian E x t r a c t T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99%

0.50 QS *

2 2

0.50 0.50

k To a d j u s t pH

Procedure: 1 . M i x Sequence # 1 t o g e t h e r w i t h o v e r h e a d m i x e r w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 78C. 2 . D r y m i x Sequence #2 t o g e t h e r and add s l o w l y t o Sequence # 1 w i t h m e d i u m / h i g h a g i t a t i o n . ( M i x w e l l u n t i l b o t h gums a r e c o m p l e t e l y hydrated/homogeneous.) 3 . M i x Sequence #3 t o g e t h e r and h e a t t o 78C u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y m e l t e d and add t o b a t c h . ( C o o l t o 55C, p l a c e on sweep b l a d e and c o n t i n u e t o c o o l t o 4 5 C ) . 4 . A t 45C, p r e m i x Sequence # 4 t o g e t h e r a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and add t o b a t c h u s i n g sweep b l a d e a t l o w s p e e d . Lower temperature t o 40C. 5 . A t 40C, add Sequence #5 t o t h e b a t c h . 6 . Cool down t o 25C and remove f r o m m i x e r . 7 . A d j u s t p H t o 3 . 8 - 4 . 2 w i t h Sequence # 6 . Specifications: pH: 4 . 0 + - 0 . 2 V i s c o s i t y : 6 , 7 0 0 cps+-10%

LVT # 4 @ 30rpm

SOURCE: L i p 0 C h e m i c a l s I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n No, 93 6

Section Vlll Shampoos

239

240

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formillations

Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Suspending Sulfur with Ritavena 5

Wt% S o d i um L a u r y l S u l f a t e D i s t i 11 ed W a t e r P a t i o n i c ISL/85 Ethylene Glycol Distearate Cocamide DEA Propylene Glycol NaCl ( 2 5 % S o l u t i o n ) L a c t i c A c i d (44%) Flowers o f S u l f u r Ritavena 5

51 - 7 0 28.30

3.00 3.00 4.50

2.00 1 .oo QS 2.00 4.50

7.55 V i s c o s i t y : 15,800 cp s S t a b i 1 it y : F r e e z e / T h a w : v . sl . p r e c i p . a f t e r 2 c y c l e s 40F: no change a f t e r 6 weeks 11OF: s l i g h t s e p a r a t i o n b u t s u l f u r s t a y s Foam H20 Foam T e s t i ng : 80 31 0 0 . 0 minute 100 31 0 1 . O minute 100 295 3.0 minute pH:

SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:

Ritavena 5 : Formulation 112-120-8

Children's Conditioning Shampoo W

Mackadet BSC Mackalene 426 Sodium C h l o r i d e M a c k s t a t DM W a t e r , Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o

S

25.0 3.0 1.5 qs

100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add f i r s t t w o components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 40 d e g r e e s C . 2 . Blend u n t i l c l e a r . 3 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e . 4 . Add r e m a i n i n g components and c o o l . SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : P e r s o n a l C a r e F o r m u l a r y : F o r m u l a

Shampoos

241

Antidandruff Shampoo

Wt% A: Water Veegum,

47.0 0.5

Magnesi um A l u m i num S i 1 ic a t e

B: Cocobetai ne Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e D i s o d i um O l e a m i d o PEG-2 S u l f o s u c c i n a t e

6.0 25.0 15.0

C: D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (Germaben 11) Hyd r o x y p r o p y l Guar Cocamide DEA Zinc Pyrithione

1.o 0.5 3.0 2.0

D: Dye, f r a g r a n c e

q.s.

Procedure: S l o w l y add Veegum t o t h e w a t e r u s i n g maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r . A l l o w t o f u l l y d i s p e r s e and h y d r a t e u n d e r c o n t i n u o u s m i x i n g f o r a minimum o f 15 m i n u t e s . B l e n d B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o A w i t h c o n t i n uous s t i r r i n g f o r 5 m i n u t e s . I n s e p a r a t e k e t t l e d i s p e r s e guar and c o c a m i d e DEA i n Germaben 1 1 . B l e n d i n z i n c p y r i t h i o n e . When u n i f o r m add A + B t o C . Add d y e a n d f r a g r a n c e . No h e a t i s requi red. Formula f r o m ISP S u t t o n L a b o r a t o r i e s Moisturizing Antidandruff Shampoo

Wt% Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , 30% 25.00 P o t a s s i u m C o c o y l H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n (Maypon 4c 1 10.00 Cocamide DEA 1 .oo P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 3.00 Z i n c P y r i t h i o n e , 48% 4.50 Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1ic a t e 1 .oo Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose 1.20 M e t h y l Paraben ( L e x g a r d M) 0.15 P r o p y l Paraben ( L e x g a r d P ) 0.05 Water q . s . t o 100 Procedure: H e a t w a t e r t o 70C. D i s p e r s e m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e and Veegum. Add r e m a i n i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . C o o l t o 40C. T y p i c a l p r o p e r t i e s : pH 6 . 7 . V i s c o s i t y a t 24C: 2925 c p s . T h i c k l a t h e r , small bubbles. Formul a f r o n Ino1 ex C h e m i c a l C o r p .

SOURCE:

R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co.,

Inc.:

Veegum

Formulas

242

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Clear Shampoo with Microcapsules Sequence: 1 1 1 1 2 2 3 4 4 5 5 6

Raw M a t e r i a1 : Dei o n i zed Water Sodium C h l o r i d e Methylparaben Hampene Na2T L i p o n i c EG-I Hypan SR15OH C a r b o p o l ETD 2 0 2 0 ( 2 % s o l I n ) D e i o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% S t a n d a p o l ES-2 Standapol T L i p o P e a r l Green Vitamin E Acetate

Percent 39.60 0.20 0.25 0.05 1.oo 0.10 30.00 1 .oo 0.80 20.00 6.00 1.oo

Procedure: 1 . M i x and h e a t Sequence # I t o 80C w i t h o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medium speed. 2 . P r e m i x i n t o s l u r r y Sequence #2 and a d d t o Sequence #1 a t 80C w i t h overhead m i x e r . 3 . P r e m i x Sequence #3 and add t o b a t c h w i t h o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medium s p e e d . 4 . P r e m i x Sequence # 4 and add t o b a t c h w i t h o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medi um s p e e d . 5 . A t l o w speed o n o v e r h e a d m i x e r add Sequence # 5 i n o r d e r o f a d d i t i o n ( k e e p i n g a e r a t i o n t o a m i n i m u m ) . Cool t o 25C w i t h sweep b l ade. 6 . A t 25C s l o w l y add Sequence #6 m i c r o c a p s u l e s u s i n g sweep b l a d e a t low s p e e d .

SOURCE:

L i p 0 C h e m i c a l s I n c . : F o r m u l a No. 869

All Natural Shampoo

WtO/o Mackadet WGS Mackami de LLM Sodium C h l o r i d e M a c k s t a t DM EDTA ( 4 0 % ) Fragrance Dei o n i zed Water

45.0 10.0 2.5 Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. 100.0

Q. S .

Procedure: 1 . Add components t o w a t e r and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 2 . I f a h i g h e r v i s c o s i t y i s needed, a d j u s t w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . SOURCE: M c I n t y r e G r o u p L t d . :

Personal Care Formulary

Shampoos

243

Conditioning Color Enhancer Shampoo Ingredients: Phase A : Water Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (28% 2M. E . O . ) D i s o d i um Cocoamphodi p r o p i o n a t e PEG-7 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ( T e g o s o f t GC) Q u a t e r n i u m - 8 0 ( A b i l Quat 3272)

Weight%

Phase 6 : B a s i c B l u e 99 B a s i c Brown 16 A c i d V i o l e t 43 B a s i c Red 36 B a s i c Ye1 l o w 57

20 00 20.00 10.00 1.50 0.50 n

Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S.

Phase C : Water 38.40 T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 0.10 C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e E ) 7.00 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i 1 B 8852) 0.50 Fragrance Q.S. P r e s e r v a t i ves Q.S. C i t r i c Acid t o pH 6 . 0 PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e ( A n t i l 1 7 1 ) 2.00 Procedure: 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . 2 . B l e n d c o l o r s , add t o Phase A . M i x w e l l . 3 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase C t o A/B i n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l . Avoid foaming. A d j u s t pH t o 6.0 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d . 4 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h t h e PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e ( A n t i l 171).

SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t C h e m i c a l Co. : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t i ons Shampoo-Clear Gel Type Ingredients: Wei q h t % 77.70 C a r b o p o l ETD 2 0 2 0 , 1 . 5 % D i s o d i um EDTA 0.10 C a l foam SLS-30 15.00 C a l foam ES-303 5.00 Calamide C 2.00 Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . A 1 . 5 % s o l u t i o n i s made b y d i s p e r s i n g t h e C a r b o p o l i n 40C warm w a t e r and s t i r r i n g . 2 . The d i s p e r s i o n i s s l i g h t l y h a z y w i t h g e l - l i k e c o n s i s t e n c y . 3 . P r o b a b l y even a 1% s o l u t i o n w o u l d b e s u i t a b l e f o r t h i s application. 4 . The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e g r a d u a l l y added i n t o t h e C a r b o p o l s o l u t i o n and s t i r r e d u n t i l a homogeneous p r o d u c t i s p r e p a r e d . SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-005-01

244

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioning Shampoo T h i s f o r m u l a u s e s I n c r o q u a t HO-aOPG, a q u a t e r n a r y c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t s u i t a b l e f o r 2 - i n - 1 shampoos, i n c o m b i n a t i o n w i t h I n c r o m i n e O x i d e C and C r o d a f o s SG t o g i v e h a i r i m p r o v e d w e t c o m b i n g and a s o f t , d r y f e e l . I n c r o q u a t HO-80 PG h a s been f o u n d t o w o r k e s p e c i a l l y w e l l w i t h p o l y m e r i c q u a t e r n a r i e s , l i k e t h e Jaguar C14S u s e d h e r e , a s i t a p p e a r s t o enhance t h e e f f e c t s o f t h e s e polyquats, r e s u l t i n g i n greater conditioning. Innredients: Part A: Dei o n i z e d W a t e r Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u r n C h l o r i d e Citric Acid P a r t B: SLES ( 3 m o l e ) SLS I n c r o n a m 30 ( C o c o a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) I n c r o m i de L R ( L a u r a m i de DEA) C r o d a f o s SG (PPG-5-Ceteth-10 P h o s p h a t e ) G1 y c e r o x HE (PEG-7 G1 y c e r y l C o c o a t e ) I n c r o q u a t HO-80PG ( D i o l e o y l ami d o e t h y l H y d r o x y e t h y l moni um M e t h o s u l f a t e ) G1 y c o l S t e a r a t e I n c r o m i n e Oxide C (Cocamidopropylamine Oxide) P a r t C: P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben H e x y l ene G1 y c o l D i m e t h i c o n e Copol yo1

Weight%

57.05 0.35 0.10 15.00

5.00 6.00 3.00 2.00 1 .oo 2.50

0.50 2.00

1 .oo 3.00 1.50

Procedure: Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h good m i x i n g . H e a t P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 45C. Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s t o P a r t A a s l i s t e d . H e a t b a t c h up t o 70-75C w i t h good m i x i n g . Make sure a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e d i s s o l v e d . S t a r t c o o l i n g b a t c h . A t 50C, add P a r t C . pH=5.5+-0.5 Viscosity=3,000 cps N.A.T.C. Approved

+-lo%,

S p i n d l e # 4 @ 10 rpm

SOURCE: C r o d a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SH-96

Shampoos

245

Conditioning Shampoo T h i s f o r m u l a u s e s I n c r o q u a t B e h e n y l HE, a q u a t e r n a r y c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t s u i t a b l e f o r 2 - i n - 1 shampoos, i n c o m b i n a t i o n w i t h I n c r o m i n e O x i d e C and C r o d a f o s SG t o g i v e h a i r i m p r o v e d w e t combing and a s o f t , d r y f e e l . I n c r o q u a t B e h e n y l HE a l s o w o r k s e s p e c i a l l y w e l l w i t h p o l y m e r i c q u a t e r n a r i e s , l i k e t h e J a g u a r C14S u s e d h e r e , and h a s been f o u n d t o enhance t h e e f f e c t s o f t h e s e polyquats, r e s u l t i n g i n greater conditioning. Innredients : P a r t A: Dei o n i zed Water Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e C i t r i c Acid Part 8 : SLES ( 3 m o l ) SLS I n c r o n a m 30 ( C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) Incromine Oxide C (Cocamidopropylamine Oxide) I n c r o m i de LR ( L a u r a m i de DEA) C r o d a f o s SG (PPG-5-Ceteth-10 P h o s p h a t e ) G l y c e r o x HE (PEG-7 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ) I n c r o q u a t B e h e n y l HE ( B e h e n a m i d o p r o p y l H y d r o x y e t h y l D i moni um C h l o r i d e ) Part C: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben H e x y l ene G1 y c o l

Weight% 59.55 0.35 0.10 15.00 5.00 6.00 2.00 3.00 2.00 1.oo 2.50

1 .oo 2.50

Procedure: Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h good m i x i n g . H e a t P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 45C. Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s t o P a r t A a s l i s t e d H e a t b a t c h up t o 70-75C w i t h good m i x i n g . Make s u r e a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e d i s s o l v e d . S t a r t c o o l i n g b a t c h . A t 50C, add Part C. pH=5.0+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y = 1 0 , 0 0 0 + - l o % , S p i n d l e # 4 @ 10 rpm. N . A . T . C . Approved

SOURCE: C r o d a I n c , : F o r m u l a t i o n SH-97

246

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioning Shampoo T h i s f o r m u l a u s e s I n c r o q u a t HO-80 PG, a q u a t e r n a r y c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t s u i t a b l e f o r 2 - i n - 1 shampoos, i n c o m b i n a t i o n w i t h I n c r o m i n e O x i d e C and C r o d a f o s SG t o g i v e h a i r i m p r o v e d w e t c o m b i n g and s o f t , d r y f e e l . I n c r o q u a t HO-80 PG h a s been f o u n d t o work e s p e c i a l l y w e l l w i t h p o l y m e r i c q u a t e r n a r i e s , l i k e t h e J a g u a r C 1 4 s u s e d h e r e , a s i t a p p e a r s t o enhance t h e e f f e c t s of these polyquats, r e s u l t i n g i n g r e a t e r c o n d i t i o n i n g . Ingredients: Part A: D e i o n i z e d Water Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e * C i t r i c Acid P a r t B: SLES ( 3 m o l e ) s LS I n c r o n a m 30 ( C o c o a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) I n c r o m i de LR ( L a u r a m i de DEA) C r o d a f o s SG (PPG-5-Ceteth-10 P h o s p h a t e ) G1 y c e r o x HE (PEG-7 G1 y c e r y l C o c o a t e ) I n c r o q u a t HO-80PG ( D i o l e o y l a m i d o e t h y l H y d r o x y e t h y l moni um M e t h o s u l f a t e ) Glycol Stearate I n c r o m i n e Oxide C (Cocamidopropylamine Oxide) P a r t C: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben** H e x y l ene G1 y c o l Dimethicone Copolyol***

Wt% 57.05 0.35 0.10 15.00 5.00 6.00 3.00 2.00 1.oo 2.50 0.50 2.00

1 .oo 3.00 1.50

Procedure: Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h good m i x i n g . H e a t P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 45C. Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s t o P a r t A a s l i s t e d . H e a t b a t c h u p t o 70-75C w i t h good m i x i n g . Make s u r e a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e d i s s o l v e d . S t a r t c o o l i n g b a t c h . A t 50C, add P a r t C. pH=5.56+-0.5 V i s c o s i ty=4200cps+-1090,

S p i n d l e # 4 @ 10 rpm

* J a g u a r C14S ( Rhone-Poul e n c ) **Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n L a b s ) ***Dow C o r n i n g 1 9 0 P o l y e t h e r (Dow C o r n i n g ) N.A.T.C. approved

SOURCE: C r o d a I n c . :

F o r m u l a t i o n SH-96

Shampoos

247

Conditioning Shampoo T h i s f o r m u l a uses I n c r o q u a t Behenyl HE, a q u a t e r n a r y condi t i o n i n g a g e n t s u i t a b' l e f o r 2 - i n - 1 shampoos, i n c o m b i n a t i o n w i t h I n c r o m i n e O x i d e C and C r o d a f o s SG t o g i v e h a i r i m p r o v e d w e t c o m b i n g and a s o f t , d r y f e e l . I n c r o q u a t B e h e n y l HE a l s o w o r k s e s p e c i a l l y w e l l w i t h PO y m e r i c q u a t e r n a r i e s , l i k e t h e J a g u a r C14S u s e d h e r e , and has been f o u n d t o enhance t h e e f f e c t s o f t h e s e p o l y q u a t s , r e s u l t ng in g r e a t e r c o n d i t i o n i n g . Ingredients: Part A: Dei o n i zed W a t e r Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e * C i t r i c Acid Part 0 : SLES ( 3 m o l e ) s LS I n c r o n a m 30 (Cocoami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) I n c r o m i n e O x i d e C (Cocamidopropylarnine O x i d e ) I n c r o m i d e LR ( L a u r a m i d e DEA) C r o d a f o s SG (PPG-5-Ceteth-10 P h o s p h a t e ) G1 y c e r o x HE (PEG-7 G1 y c e r y l C o c o a t e ) I n c r o a u a t B e h e n v l HE (.B e h e n a m i d o p r o p y l H y d r o x y e t h y l D i moni um C h l or; d e ) P a r t C: P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 i d n y l U r e a ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l P a r a b e n * * H e x y l ene G1 y c o l

Wt% 59.55 0.35 0.10 15.00 5.00 6.00 2.00 3.00 2.00 1.00 2.50

1.oo 2.50

Procedure: Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s w t h good m i x i n g . H e a t P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 45C. Add P a r t B n n r e d i e n t s t o P a r t A a s l i s t e d . H e a t b a t c h up t o 70-75C w i t h g o o d - m i x i n g . Make s u r e a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e d i s s o l v e d . S t a r t c o o l i n g b a t c h . A t 50C, add P a r t C . pH=5.26+-0.5 V i s c o s i ty=4800cpst-10%,

S p i n d l e # 4 @ 1Orpm

* J a g u a r C145S ( R h o n e - P o u l e n c ) **Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n L a b s ) N . A . T . C . Approved SOURCE: C r o d a I n c . :

F o r m u l a t i o n SH-97

248

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioning Shampoo Quanti t v

Staue M a t e r i a l : Stage A: 1 Water; Pure 2 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( S L E S ) 3 T e g o b e t a i n e L7 4 PEG 1 5 0 - d i s t e a r a t e

49.6009 4 0 . OOOg 5 . OOOg 2 . ooog

Stage 0 : 5 AEC D i m e t h i c o n e ( a ) L a u r e t h - 4 ( a ) L a u r e t h - 2 3 6 Germaben 11-E 7 P . AG 9960 F r u i t y F l o r a l f o r h a i r 6 Phosphoric A c i d C o l o u r s as r e q u i r e d

2,5009 0 4009 0.3009 0,2009 g I

Mixing Instructions: Measure o u t t h e w a t e r and add i t e m s 2, 3 and 4 and h e a t u n t i l 4 h a s d i s s o l v e d , a b o u t 65C. M i x b r i e f l y t h e n s t a r t c o o l i n g , add i t e m s 5 & G and when a t 35C add 7 and a d j u s t t h e pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . C o l o u r as r e q u i r e d . T h i s s i m p l e f o r m u l a may be r e a d i 1 y a d a p t e d t o i n c o r p o r a t e h e r b a l e x t r a c t s , h y d r o l y z e d p r o t e i n , p a n t h e n o l and o t h e r s p e c i a1 i n g r e d i e n t s as r e q u i r e d . P r o j e c t JW 2 3 9 0 / F o r m u l a R e f . 639*0 Conditioning Shampoo Quanti t y

S t m e - Mkitsx-dI Stage A : 1 Water; Pure 2 Texapon L20/M 3 T e g o b e t a i n e L7 4 PEG 150-d7 s t e a r a t e Stage 0 : 5 AEC D i m e t h i c o n e ( a ) L a u r e t h - 4 ( & ) 6 Germaben 11-E 7 Fragrance 8 Phosphoric Acid 9 Colours as required

46.6009 40 OOOg 5.OOOg 2 . ooog I

Laureth-23

3.5009 0,4009 0,3009 0,2009 9

Mixing Instructions: Measure o u t t h e w a t e r and add i t e m s 2 , 3 and 4 and h e a t u n t i l 4 has d i s s o l v e d , a b o u t 65C. M i x b r i e f l y t h e n s t a r t c o o l i n g , add i t e m s 5 & 6 and when a t 35C add 7 and a d j u s t t h e pH t o 5.5-6.5. Colour as required. T h i s s i m p l e f o r m u l a may b e r e a d i l y a d a p t e d t o i n c o r p o r a t e h e r b a l e x t r a c t s , h y d r o l y z e d p r o t e i n , p a n t h e n o l and o t h e r s p e c i a1 in g r e d i e n t s a s r e q u i r e d . P r o j e c t : J W 2 3 9 0 / F o r m u l a R e f . : 837*1 SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d , : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Shampoos

249

Conditioning Shampoo Phase : A A A A A

B B

% by W t 61.25 25.00 10.00

Ingredient : D e i o n i z e d Water S t a n d a p o l ES1 (30%) V e l v e t e x BK35 (35%) L a u r a m i de DEA O i 1 s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i 1 Perfume Preservative

3.00 0.50 0.25

QS

Manufacturing Procedure: Phase A : H e a t w a t e r t o 70C and add a l l i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t p r e s e r v a t i v e and p e r f u m e . Cool t o 40C. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and p e r f u m e . Package. O i l s o f A l o h a Macademia N u t O i l s e r v e s as a r e f a t t i n g a g e n t t o r e p l a c e t h e n a t u r a l o i l s l o s t d u r i n g shampooing.

SOURCE: O i l s o f A l o h a : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n Conditioning Shampoo

A: Dei o n i z e d Water Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( P h o e n a t e SLES-70) C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne P e c o s i 1 C A P - I 240 Decyl P o l y g l ucose Laurami de DEA (Phoenami d L D ) PEG-3 D i s t e a r a t e ( P h o e n a t e 3DSA) Sodium C h l o r i d e PEG-1 20 M e t h y l G1 u c o s e D i o l e a t e D i m e t h i c o n e Copol yo1 P h o s p h a t e ( P e c o s i 1 PS 1 0 0 ) B: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben

Wt% 57.80 20.00 1.60 2.00 8.00 2.00 2.40 0.80 2.40 2.00

1-00

9,s. q.s.

Color Fragrance 10% Aqueous C i t r i c A c i d S o l u t i o n

a d j u s t t o p H 5.0-6.0

Procedure: Combine Phase A i t e m s , a g i t a t e and h e a t t o 70C. When Phase A i s u n i f o r m , b e g i n c o o l i n g u n d e r s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n t o 45C. Add Phase B w i t h c o n t i n u e d s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n . When AB i s u n i f o r m , a d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 - 6 . 0 . SOURCE: P h o e n i x C h e m i c a l ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

250

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioning Shampoo T h i s mu1 t i f u n c t io n a l shampoo p r o v i d e s c l e a n s i ng and c o n d i t i oni n g i n one p r o d u c t . I t g i v e s i m p r o v e d g l o s s , w e t and d r y combi b i l i t y , and m a n a g e a b i l i t y t o t h e h a i r . F r e q u e n t u s e w i l l n o t l e a d t o a " g r e a s y " b u i l d u p on t h e h a i r . [ngredients : :el q u a t SC-240C ) i s t i l l e d Water r t o n a t e r i c 805 j t e p a n o l WAT donamid 716 ' r o p y 1 ene G1 y c o l ;errnaben I 1 > i t r i c Acid P r e p a r a t ion W h i l e ma i n t o water. and m i x u n t Formul a t

P a r t s by W e i g h t 0.70 55.00 18.80 18.50 4.00 2.00 0.50 0.50

n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t C e l q u a t SC-240C When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s 1 homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l c o n t a i n e r . on No. 8802:92

Clear, Colorless Conditioning Shampoo T h i s c l e a r , c o l o r l e s s shampoo p r o v i d e s e x c e l l e n t c o n d i t i o n i n g and body t o t h e h a i r . Ingredients C e l q u a t SC-230M D i s t i 11 ed W a t e r Standapol A R e w o t e r i c AM 814 Monamid 716 V e r s e n e 100 Sodium C h l o r i d e Preservative

P a r t s by Weight 0.25 56.40 35.00 7.00 1 .oo 0.25 0.10 4,s.

P r e p a r a t ion : Add Cel q u a t SC-230M t o w a t e r whi 1 e mai n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i on When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r 1 is t e d . F o r m u l a t i o n No. 6919-117

SOURCE:

N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and C h e m i c a l Co. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

I

Shampoos

251

Conditioning Shampoo M a t e r i a1 : Water; P u r e Texapon L20/M T e g o b e t a i n e L7 AEC D i m e t h i c o n e ( & ) L a u r e t h - 4 ( & ) L a u r e t h - 2 3 PEG 1 5 0 - d i s t e a r a t e Germaben 11-E Fragrance Phosphoric A c i d Colours as required

%w/w 48,600 40.000 5.000 3.500 2.000 0.400 0.300 0 200 a

F o r m u l a R e f . : 837*1

Conditioning Shampoo M a t e r i a1 : Water; P u r e Sodium L a u r e t h S u l p h a t e (SLES) T e g o b e t a i n e L7 AEC Dimethicone(&)Laureth-4(&)Laureth-23 PEG 1 5 0 - d i s t e a r a t e Germaben 11 -E P.AG 9960 F r u i t y F l o r a l f o r h a i r Phosphoric A c i d C o l o u r s as r e q u i r e d

%w/w 49.600 40.000 5.000 2,500 2 .ooo 0.400 0.300 0 I200

Formula R e f. : 839*0 Shampoo with Silicone M a t e r i a1 : Water; Pure Sodium L a u r e t h S u l p h a t e (SLES) E m p i c o l TL 4 0 t Texapon SBN AEC D i m e t h i c o n e ( & ) L a u r e t h - 4 ( & ) L a u r e t h - 2 3 E m p i l a n LDE E m p i l a n EGMS P o l y m e r JR 400 K a t h o n CG 100 Sodium H y d r o x i d e 33% F o r m u l a R e f . : 1067*0

SOURCE: A & E C o n n o c k L t d . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

%w/w 47.390 18.000 17.500 9.500 4 000 2.000 1 .ooo 0.500 0.100 0.010 I

252

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioning Shampoo

% By W e i q h t Water 45.35 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (2 M o l e 26%) ( S i p o n E S 2 ) 20.00 Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e and D i s o d i u m L a u r y l 20.00 Sul f o s u c c i n a t e (Monaterge 1164) T r i s o d i um Lauroampho PG A c e t a t e P h o s p h a t e C h l o r i d e 10.00 ( P h o s p h o t e r i c QL-38) 2.50 D i m e t h i c o n e (Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d 200 CS) G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e (Kessco E t h y l e n e G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ) 1 .oo 1.00 Cocamide MEA (Monamid CMA) 0.15 Sodium C h l o r i d e Procedure: Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d w i t h a g i t a t i o n . H e a t t o 70C. C o o l t o 40C. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 t o 6.0 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e a s r e q u i r e d . Formulation Properties: Physical Properties: White pearled l o t i o n V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 7,100 c p s Forrnul a F-578 Everyday Shampoo % By W e i g h t

Water Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e M o n a t e r g e 1164 P h o s p h o t e r i c QL-38 Monamid CMA Sodium C h l o r i d e

48 00 I

( 2 M o l e 26%)

20.00

20.00 10.00 1 .oo 1.00

Procedure: Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d w i t h a g i t a t i o n . H e a t t o 60C. C o o l t o 40C. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 t o 6 . 0 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e a s r e q u i r e d . Formulation Properties: P h y s i c a l A p p e a r a n c e : V i s c o u s 1 iq u i d S o l i d s : 17.00% F o r m u l a F-609

SOURCE:

Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Shampoos

253

Deodorizing Shampoo Ingredients: Phase A : Water T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (28% 2M E . O . ) PEG-20 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L ) PEG-7 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ( T e g o s o f t GC) PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e ( A n t i 1 1 7 1 ) G1 y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( T e g i n EGS) Z i n c R i n c i no1 e a t e ( a n d ) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne ( a n d ) D i p r o p y l ene G1 y c o l ( a n d ) L a c t ic A c i d (Tego Deo HY77) Phase 0 : Water P r e s e r v a t i ves Fragrance C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e L 7 ) C i t r i c A c i d (20% s o l u t i o n ) Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% s o l u t i o n )

Wei n h t % 32 60 0.10 17.50 20.00 2.50 2 50 2.50 3.00 I

1.80 10.00 Q.S. Q.S. 7.50 t o pH 7 . 0 Q.S.

Procedure: 1 . H e a t Phase A t o 70C. Add components i n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l b e t w e e n a d d i t i o n s . A v o i d foam. 2 . B e g i n c o o l i n g . S l o w l y c o o l t o 35-40C. Some o f t h e w a t e r o f Phase B c a n b e u s e d t o s t a r t t h e c o o l i n g . 3 . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B . 4 . A d j u s t pH and v i s c o s i t y .

SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Chemi c a l C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t ion Shampoo Ingredients: Water C a l foam SLS-30 Cal foam ES-303 Calamide C C i t r i c Acid Sodium C h l o r i d e P e r f u m e and Dye

Weight% 74.45 5.00 16.00 2.00 0.10 2.50 0.10

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1. Mix t h e f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s (pH=lO). 2 . Add t h e C i t r i c A c i d ( a p p r o x i m a t e l y 0 . 1 % ) t o a d j u s t pH t o about 6. 3 . Add s a l t t o t h e d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y . 4 . P e r f u m e and d y e as d e s i r e d .

SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l C o , : F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-003-01

254

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

MiId Deep Cleaning Shampoo T h i s u n i q u e shampoo f o r m u l a t i o n p r o v i d e s e x c e l l e n t c l e a n s i n g b u i l d u p on h a i r , w i t h o u t d r y i n g t h e h a i r o r s c a l p . T h i s shampoo a l s o a i d s i n p r e v e n t i n g / c o n t r o l l i n g s t a t i c f 1yaway

o f t h e "greasy"

.

P a r t s by W e i g h t

Ingredients: F l e x a n 130 D i s t i l l e d Water S t e p a n o l WAT R e w o t e r i c AM B-14LS P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Monamid 716 Sodium C h l o r i d e G lydant

2.00 62.55 20.00 10.00 2.00 2.25 0.80 0.40

P r e p a r a t ion : W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , add F l e x a n 130 t o w a t e r . When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and fill.

SOURCE:

N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and C h e m i c a l Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n 8802:3813 Water White Shampoo

D . I.Water S t epano 1 WA- Ex t r a Amphosol CA N i n o l 40-CO Sodium C h l o r i d e P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Glycerin C i t r i c A c i d (50%) K a t h o n CG Sodium C h l o r i d e

% by Weisht Q.S. t o 100.0 46.50 5.00 2.50 1 .oo 1 .oo 0.50 0.10 0.06

Q.S

M i x i ng P r o c e d u r e : H e a t f i r s t seven i n g r e d i e n t s t o 165F. M i x . Cool t o 11OF. Add K a t h o n CG. A d j u s t pH w i t h C i t r i c A c i d (50%) t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodi um C h l o r i d e . SOURCE : S t e p a n Co. : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t i on

Shampoos

255

Moisture Therapy Shampoo with Hydrotriticum WAA The u s e o f H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA i n t h i s shampoo g i v e s h a i r deepdown m o i s t u r i z a t i o n f o r s h i n e t h a t shows c l e a r t h r o u g h t o t h e o u t s i d e . H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA i s a p o w e r f u l wheat p r o t e i n - d e r i v e d amino a c i d c o m p l e x t h a t h a s b e e n shown t o p e n e t r a t e i n s i d e t h e h a i r , e n a b l i n g i t t o m o i s t u r i z e f r o m w i t h i n . As a c o l d f o r m u l a , t h i s shampoo i s e c o n o m i c a l and e a s y t o make. Ingredients : Weight% P a r t A: I n c r o m i de LR ( L a u r a m i de DEA) 5.00 I n c r o n a m 30 (Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) 5.00 S o d i um P a r e t h - 2 5 S u l f a t e 15.00 H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA (Wheat Amino A c i d s ) 1 .oo Dei o n i zed Water 73.00 P a r t B: Propylene G l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) Methyl Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben 1.oo Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A, w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Then add P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH t o 5.0 w i t h a 10% c i t r i c acid solution. pH=5.0+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y = 8 , 0 0 0 + - 1 0 % (RVT S p i n d l e # 4 , lOrpm, 25C) N.A.T.C. Approved SOURCE: C r o d a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SH-93 Pearlescent Conditioning Shampoo Wt% to 1 o o x T E A - l a u r y l s u l f a t e (40% a c t i v e ) 15.00 Sodium l a u r o a m p h o a c e t a t e ( a n d ) s o d i u m t r i d e c e t h s u l f a t e 1 0 . 0 0 Cocamide DEA 2.50 G1 y c o l s t e a r a t e 1.20 Propylene g l y c o l (and) d i a z o l i d i n y l u r e a (and) m e t h y l paraben (and) propylparaben 0.75 B e n e c e l MP 943 R h y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e 0.60 N-Hance 3 000 c a t i o n i c g u a r 0.50 C i t r i c a c i d (50% s o l u t i o n ) pH a d j u s t Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e t h e N-Hance b y a d d i n g t o t h e v o r t e x o f w e l l - a g i t a t e d w a t e r . Reduce t o pH 7 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n t o p r o m o t e d i s s o l u t i o n o f t h e s u r f a c e - t r e a t e d N-Hance. H e a t t o 50C. 2 . S i f t t h e B e n e c e l i n t o t h e N-Hance s o l u t i o n . M i x u n t i l b o t h polymers a r e f u l l y d i s s o l v e d . 3 . I n c r e a s e t h e t e m p e r a t u r e t o 70C. Add t h e TEALS and g l y c o l s t e a r a t e , one a t a t i m e . M i x w e l l b e t w e e n e a c h a d d i t i o n . T u r n o f f h e a t when homogeneous. Mai n t a i n m i x i n g . 4 . When t e m p e r a t u r e i s a t 55C, add r e m a i n i n g s u r f a c t a n t s a n d p r e s e r v a t i v e . 5 . A d j u s t t o pH 5 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n . 6 . When b e l o w 40C, add f r a g r a n c e . Inqredient :

D i s t i 1 l e d water

SOURCE: A q u a l o n D i v , : N - H a n c e

q.s.

3000 C a t i o n i c G u a r : F o r m u l a t i o n

256

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Normal Hair Shampoo A good, b a s i c shampoo w i t h e x c e l l e n t f l a s h foam and l a t h e r w h i c h i s dense and s o f t . Part: I n g r e d i e n t ( T r a d e Name): Wt% A D e i o n i zed Water 58.64 H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( M e t h o c e l 40-100) 0.10 Na4EDTA 0.20 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 0.01 B TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t e p a n o l WAT) 22.50 M e t h y l Paraben 0.20 I m i d a z o l id i n y l Urea (Germal 1 1 1 5 ) 0.20 Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( A l f o n i c 1412-A) 5.50 Ammonium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( J o r d a p o n ACI-30) 6.70 C Cocamide DEA (Mazamide 8 0 ) 3.00 Soya E t h y l d i m o n i u m E t h o s u l f a t e (M-Quat 1033) 0.70 C i t r i c Acid 0.25 Ammon ium Ch 1o r ide 2.00 pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 7 V i s c o s i t y : 5500-6000 c p s Appearance: C1 e a r , s t r a w - c o l o r e d 1 iq u i d Procedure: I n t h e main v e s s e l , d i s p e r s e t h e h y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t h e w a t e r , m i x i n g f o r t e n m i n u t e s . Add t h e Na4EDTA and t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , w h i c h i n i t i a t e s h y d r a t i o n o f t h e gum. M i x f o r a b o u t 20 m i n u t e s t o e n s u r e c o m p l e t e h y d r a t i o n , t h e n add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r g i v e n . When b a t c h i s c l e a r and u n i f o r m , add t h e Mazamide 80 and t h e M-Quat 1033, and a d j u s t t h e pH and v i s c o s i t y . F o r m u l a A-208 Baby Shampoo C l e a r , m i l d , g e n t l e - c l e a n s i n g shampoo. N o t e : w h i l e PPG t e s t d a t a on t h e i n d i v i d u a l i n g r e d i e n t s i n d i c a t e t h a t t h i s f o r m u l a s h o u l d be e x t r e m e l y m i l d t o s k i n and eyes, PPG has n o t p e r f o r m e d m i l d n e s s t e s t i n g on t h i s s y s t e m . Part: I n g r e d i e n t ( T r a d e Name): Wt% A D e i o n i z e d Water 68.1 PEG-80 S o r b i t a n L a u r a t e (T-Maz 2 8 ) 3.0 Sodium C12-15 P a r e t h - 1 5 S u l f o n a t e ( A v a n e l S-150 CG) 7.1 PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e (Mapeg 6000DS) 1.0 B Ammonium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( J o r d a p o n ACI-30) 10.0 9.0 C o c a m i d o p r o p y l H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e (Mafo CSB-50) Cocamide DEA (Mazamide JT-128) 1.5 C Q u a t e r n i um 15 ( D o w i c i 1 200) 0.2 Fragrance 0.1 pH: 6 . 8 - 7 . 2 V i s c o s i t y : 3,400 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d # 2 @ 6 rpm) Appearance: C l e a r , p a l e s t r a w - c o l o r e d l i q u i d Procedure: B l e n d t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t i n g t o 60-65C t o d i s s o l v e t h e Mapeg 6000DS. When u n i f o r m , add t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r and b e g i n c o o l i n g . Add t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s a t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 40C. F o r m u l a A-1 12 SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Shampoos

257

Opaque Antidandruff Shampoo

Wt% 65.3 Water Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e 1.o Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e 1.1 Z i n c P y r i t h i o n e , 48% ( Z i n c Omadine) 4.2 0.4 C i t r i c A c i d , 50% S o d i um L a u r y l E t h e r S u l f a t e 18.0 Cocamide DEA 5.0 S o d i um L a u r y l S a r c o s i n a t e 1. o Hydro1 y z e d C o l 1agen 2.0 FD&C B l u e No. 1 , 0 . 2 % 1.5 FD&C Ye1 l o w N o . 5 , 01 . % 0.5 Fragrance 9,s. Procedure: H e a t t h e w a t e r t o 70C. B e g i n and m a i n t a i n r a p i d s t i r r i n g ( 1 , 5 0 0 rpm) d u r i n g t h e a d d i n g o f i n g r e d i e n t s . Add t h e Veegum and s t i r 15 m i n u t e s . Add t h e h y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e and s t i r an a d d i t i o n a l 15 m i n u t e s . Add t h e Z i n c Omadine and s t i r 5 m i n u t e s . Reduce speed t o 300 rpm. Add t h e c i t r i c a c i d and s t i r u n t i l m i x e d . T u r n o f f h e a t . W h i l e c o o l i n g , add t h e o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s (except fragrance) i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d . S t i r u n t i l mixed a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . Weigh b a c k and add w a t e r t o make up f o r e v a p o r a t i o n l o s s e s . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e , s t i r r i n g s l o w l y . Add f r a g r a n c e . A d j u s t pH t o 8 . Formula f r o m O l i n Corp. Ultra Pearlescent Conditioning Shampoo T h i s 1u x u r i ous shampoo f o r m u l a i s t h i c k e n e d u s i ng Veegum U l t r a w h i c h a l s o suspends t h e m i c a p i g m e n t t h a t p r o v i d e s p e a r l e s c e n c e . Vanseal CS ( c o c o y l s a r c o s i n e ) p r o v i d e s m i l d n e s s and h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g p r o p e r t i e s w h i l e c o m b i n i n g w i t h l a u r a m i d e DEA t o m a r k e d l y enhance t h e q u a l i t y and s t a b i l i t y o f t h e l a t h e r p r o d u c e d d u r i n g shampooing. A : Veegum U1 t r a , Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e 2.00 D e i o n i z e d Water 61 - 2 5 B: M i c a ( a n d ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( T i m e r o n MP-1001) 0.50 C : Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 25.00 Laurami de DEA (Monami d 71 6 ) 7.50 Vanseal CS, Cocoyl S a r c o s i n e 3.75 P r e s e r v a t i v e , dye, f r a g r a n c e 9,s. Procedure: S i f t Veegum U l t r a i n t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e m i x i n g a t 700 rpm w i t h a p r o p e l l e r s t i r r e r . A d j u s t t h e p r o p e l l e r speed t o 15001700 r p m and m i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s . Add t h e B i n g r e d e n t s and m i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s . A d j u s t t h e speed t o 200 t o 500 rpm and add t h e C i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g a f t e r each a d d i t i o n u n t i smooth and u n i f o r m . F o r m u l a No. 452

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c , : Veegum F o r m u l a t o n s

258

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pearlescent Shampoo Three c o l o r v a r i a n t s u s i n g t i t a n a t e d mica p e a r l pigments a r e s u g g e s t e d w i t h t h i s shampoo f o r m u l a . __ Wt%

A: Veegum H V , Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e (5% a q . Susp.) H y d r o x y p r o p y l c e l l u l o s e ( 5 % a q . S o l n . ) ( K l u c e l G) D i s t i l l e d Water

B: D i s t i l l e d Water TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l T)

q.s.

C: C i t r i c Acid D i s t i l l e d Water

14.00 20 .oo 6.00

t o 100.00 25.00 0.10 2-00

D: M e t h y l Paraben D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a ( G e r m a l l I I ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( a n d ) M i c a ( T i m i r o n Super G o l d o r Super Red) C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ( V e l v e t e x BA-35) Cocamide DEA ( S t a n d a m i d KD)

0.20 0.30 0.20 5.00 3.00

E:

Water S o l u b l e Dyes: ( w / r e d p e a r l ) 0 . 2 % a q D&C Red 33 ( w / g o l d p e a r l ) 0 . 0 2 % FD&C B l u e 1 Ye1 l o w 5 ( o r ) 0 . 0 2 % FD&C B l u e 1 ( o r ) D&C Red 33

0.25 0.30 0.40 1 .oo 2.00

Procedure: P r e p a r e t h e p a r t A d i s p e r s i o n and s o l u t i o n i n advance; combine A . Homogenize u n t i l n o u n d i s p e r s e d p a r t i c l e s r e m a i n . C o n t i n u e b a t c h w i t h s i d e s w e e p a g i t a t i o n . Add B i n o r d e r . Combine C, add t o b a t c h . Combine D ; add t o b a t c h . Add E, i n s u r i n g t h a t each i s w e l l dispersed b e f o r e proceeding. SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . ,

I n c , : Veegum F o r m u l a f r o m Rona

Shampoos

Pearlescent Shampoo T i t a n a t e d m i c a p e a r l p i g m e n t s can g i v e u n i q u e " t w o c o l o r " i r i d e s c e n t e f f e c t s , w i t h appearance c h a n g i n g w i t h a n g l e o f v i ewi rig, A: Veegum HV, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e , (5% aqueous susp. ) H y d r o x y p r o p y l c e l l u l ose ( 5 % a q . S o l n . ) (K1 u c e l G ) D i s t i l l e d Water

14.00 20.00 6.00

B:

D i s t i l l e d Water TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l T )

q.s.

t o 100.00 35.00

C: C o c o - B e t a i n e ( D e h y t o n AB30) 10.00 Cocami de DEA (Standami d KD) 1 .oo H y d r o x y c e t y l H y d r o x y e t h y l Dimonium C h l o r i d e ( D e h y q u a r t E ) 2 . 0 0 D: D i azo1 id i n y l Urea ( G e r m a l l I I ) D i s t i 11 ed Water

0.25 0.50

E: T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( a n d ) M i c a ( T i m i r o n MP-1001) 0 . 0 2 % D&C Red No. 33 0 . 0 2 % FD&C B l u e N o . 1

0.20 2.00 1 .oo

Procedure: P r e p a r e t h e d i s p e r s i o n s i n advance; combi ne A . Homogenize u n t i 1 n o u n d i s p e r s e d p a r t i c l e s remai n . C o n t i n u e b a t c h w i t h sidesweep a g i t a t i o n . Add B i n o r d e r . Add C t o b a t c h i n o r d e r , m i x i n g each w e l l . Combine D; add t o b a t c h . Add E i n o r d e r , i n s u r i n g t h a t each i s we1 1 d i s p e r s e d b e f o r e p r o c e e d i n g . SOURCE: R.T. V a n d e r b i l t Co.,

I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a f r o m Rona

259

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

260

Pearlescent Shampoo

Wt%

Phase .&l 1 5% Veegum HV s u s p e n s i o n ( a s ) 1 5% K l u c e l G s o l u t i o n ( a q ) 1 D i s t i 11e d w a t e r

14.00

20.00 6.00

2 2

D i s t i 1l e d w a t e r S t a n d a p o l T (TEA l a u r y l s u l f a t e )

3 3

C i t r i c Acid D i s t i 11e d w a t e r

0.10 2.00

4 4

Sodium C h l o r i d e D i s t i l l e d water

10.00

5 5

Me th yl paraben Germall I 1

6

T i 02/mi c a ( e . g

7

Vel v e t e x BA-35

5.00

8

Standamid K D

3.00

9

Water s o l u b l e d y e s

12.30 25.00

2.00

0.20 0.30

.

T i m i r o n Super Go1 d )

0.10-0.30

9,s.

Procedure: P r e p a r e t h e Veegum and K l u c e l d i s p e r s i o n s i n advance, combine phase # l a Homogenize u n t i l no u n d i s p e r s e d p a r t i c l e s r e m a i n . Combine b a t c h w i t h sidesweep a g i t a t i o n . Add phase #2 i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Combine phase #3; add t o b a t c h . Combine phase # 4 ; add to b a t c h . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , i n s u r i n g t h a t each i s d i s p e r s e d b e f o r e p r o c e e d i n g . SDl-67-1A: C o l o r Combi n a t io n s : 0 . 2 0 % T i m i r o n Super Red 0 . 2 5 % D&C Red #33 ( 0 . 0 2 % a q )

SD1-67-1 E : C o l o r Combi n a t i o n s : 0 . 2 % T i m i r o n Super V i o l e t 1 . 0 % FD&C B l u e #1 ( 0 . 0 2 % a q ) 2 . 0 % D&C Red #33 ( 0 . 0 2 % aq)

SD1-67-1 B: SD1-67-11; C o l o r Combi n a t i o n s : Color Combinations: 0 . 2 0 % T i m i r o n Super G o l d 0 . 2 0 % T i m i r o n MP-1001 0.30% FD&C B l u e #1 ( 0 . 0 2 % a s ) 0 . 4 0 % FD&C Y e l l o w #5 ( 0 . 0 2 % a q ) 1 . 0 0 % FD&C B l u e #1 ( 0 . 0 2 % a q ) 2 . 0 0 % D&C Red #33 (0.02% aq) SD1-67-1 C: SD1-67-1 J : C o l o r Combi n a t ions : C o l o r Combinations: 0 . 2 % T i m i r o n Super G o l d 0.20% T i m i r o n Super S i 1v e r 1.0% FD&C B l u e #I ( 0 . 0 2 % a q ) 0.10% FD&C B l u e #1 ( 2 % a q ) 2 . 0 % D&C Red # 3 3 ( 0 . 0 2 % a q )

SOURCE:

Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc.:

F o r m u l a t i o n SD1-67-1

Shampoos

261

Pearlescent Shampoo Ingredi ents : CalB1 end P e a r l F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

Weight% 30.00

Q.S, 1 .oo-2.00 68.50

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : B1e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n P e a r l . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e , and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 4 , 0 0 0 - 7 , 0 0 0 cPs (No. 4 S p i n d l e @ 10rpm) w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f sodium c h l o r i d e a s needed. Typical Formulation Properties: Appearance: W h i t e , P e a r l e s c e n t L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 4 , 0 0 0 - 7 , 0 0 0 cPs pH: 6.0-7.0 % Non V o l a t i l e s : 1 2 . 5 - 1 3 . 5 CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide DEA, C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e , G l y c o l S t e a r a t e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , PEG-45MJ C i t r i c Acid, Dye(s). F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-020-01 Basic Shampoo Gel Inaredients : C a l foam ES-303 Calamide F Sodium C h l o r i d e Water Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . The v i s c o s i t y o f t h i s f o r m u l a i s 125,000 t h e v i s c o s i t y i s 96,000 c P s . 2 . I n c r e a s i n g t h e amide p r o v i d e s f o r h i g h e r s a l t l e v e l s . F o r example, a t 4% amide, a cPs i s r e a c h e d a t 1 . 5 % s a l t , and 2 3 0 , 0 0 0 salt F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-018-01

.

Wei a h t % 42.86 3.00 3.00 51 . 1 4 CPS. A t 2 . 5 % s a l t , v i s c o s i t i e s a t lower v i s c o s i t y o f 112,000 cPs i s r e a c h e d a t 2%

SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical C o . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

262

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pearlescent Shampoo A p e a r l i z e d shampoo u t i l i z i n g P a t i o n i c I S L f o r m i l d n e s s and R i t a p a n DL f o r c o n d i t i o n a l f e e l .

Ingredients: 1 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 2 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 3 . R i t a EGDS ( G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ) 4 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l ES-2) 5 . D i s t i 11 e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 6 . Methylparaben 7 . R i t a p a n DL ( P a n t h e n o l ) 8 . L a n e t o - 5 0 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 9. Propylene Glycol 10.Perfume 11 . K a t h o n CG 12.NaC1 ( 2 5 % S o l n . ) Compoundi n g P r o c e d u r e : H e a t i t e m s 1-7 t o 70-75C. Add i t e m s 1 0 - 1 2 . R e f . No. 122-104

zw/w 2.25 0.75 2.00 53.60 37.45 0.15 0.25 0 I75 2.50 0.20 0.10 Q . S .

Add i t e m s 8 and 9 . C o o l t o 40-45C.

Salon Conditioning Shampoo O p t i m i z e d c o n d i t i o n i n g l e v e l i s a c h i e v e d t h r o u g h use o f a P o l y q u t a C a t i o n i c P o l y m e r and R i t a p a n DL ( P r o - V i t a m i n 6-5). Inqredi ents: 1 S o d i um L a u r e t h - 2 S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l ES-2) 2 , P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-I50 D i s t e a r a t e ) 4 . R i t a p a n DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 5 . L a n e t o - 5 0 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 6 . P o l y q u t a 400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 7 . K a t h o n CG 8 . F r a g r a n c e - N a t u r e H a r v e s t 165-050 9 . D i s t i 11 e d / D e i o n i z e d W a t e r 1 0 . A m a n d u l i n e S . G . ( H y d r o l y z e d Sweet Almond P r o t e i n )

.

40.00 3.00 0.50 0.50 0.75 0.50 0.03 0.30 49.42 5.00

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 6 i n w a t e r a t 165F. Add i t e m 3 and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Then add i t e m 4 , 2 , 1 , and 5 i n o r d e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . C o o l t o 1 2 0 F . Add i t e m s 7, 8 and 1 0 . R e f . No. 121-178

SOURCE: R . I . T , A .

Corp.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Shampoos

263

Pearlized Conditioning Shampoo with Amilan GST 40 (cold process) Weight_% Inqredients: 46.00 Water 0.10 T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 20.00 S o d i urn L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 2 8 % ) 20.00 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( 2 8 % 2M. E . O . ) 1 .oo PEG-7 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ( T e g o s o f t GC) 1 .oo D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) 0.40 Q u a t e r n i u m - 8 0 ( A b i l Quat 3272) 7.50 C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F ) 1.50 DATEM ( A m i l a n GST 4 0 ) 2.50 G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e and S t e a r e t h - 4 ( T e g o P e a r l N 1 0 0 ) Q.S Preservatives Q.S Color Q.S Fragrance Visc. Adj Sodium C h l o r i d e ( 2 5 % S o l u t i o n ) C i t r i c A c i d (10%) A d j u s t t o pH 5 . 5 - 6 . 0 i f needed Procedure: 1 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r - m i x i n g b e t w e e n a d d i t i o n s . 2 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h t h e Sodium C h l o r i d e .

SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n Shampoo-Clear Gel Type I j g r _ e d i e n t s: Carbopol ETD 2020, D i sod1 utn EDTA C a l foam T i s - 4 0 Calamide C

1.5%

Wei y h t% 77.70

0.10 20.00 2.00

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . A 1 . 5 % s o l u t i o n i n water i s prepared by d i s s o l v i n g t h e Carbopol a t 40C. 2 . The d i s p e r s i on i s s l i g h t l y h a z y i'ii t h g e l - 1 1 ke c o n s i s t e n c y . 3 . P r o b a b l y even a 1% s o l u t i o n w o u l d be s u i t a b l e f o r t h i s a p p l ic a t i o n . 4 . The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e g r a d u a l l y added i n t o t h e C a r b o p o l so! u t i o n . 5 . The b l e n d t u r n s c l e a r upon C a l f o a n i TLS-40 a d d i t i o n . 6 . S t i r u n t i l t h e b l e n d i s homogeneous. 7 . W i t h o u t a d j u s t m e n t t h e pH i s 5-6. SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-004-01

264

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pearl Pigment Shampoo Veegum HV, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e & 40.0 ( K 1 u c e l G) H y d r o x y p r o p y l C e l l u l o s e S o l u t i on 25.0 TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e (Texapon 1 4 2 ) C i t r i c Acid 0.1 2.0 Sodium C h l o r i d e P r e s e r v a t iv e 0.2 0.5-0.2 S i comet Amaranth 85 E123 o r S i c o m e t B l u e S 42045 0.1-0.2 ( D y e s t u f f S u s p e n s i o n 1%) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( a n d ) M i c a ( T i m e r o n MP 1001 o r 0.1-0.2 T i m e r o n S.I. P i g m e n t s ) 5.0 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Dehyton K ) Cocami d e DEA ( Comper 1an KD) 3.0 q.s. W a t e r demi n e r a l iz e d Procedure: C o m p o s i t i o n o f Veegum/Kl u c e l S u s p e n s i o n : A ) Veegum HV ( 5 % ) 35%; 8 ) K l u c e l G ( 5 % ) 50%; W a t e r 15%. F o r t h e Veegum HV S u s p e n s i o n ( A ) h y d r a t e 5% Veegum HV i n w a t e r , f o l l o w e d b y h o m o g e n i z a t i o n w i t h ( e . g . ) an U l t r a T u r r a x . F o r t h e K l u c e l G s o l u t i o n ( B ) add 5% K l u c e l G t o t h e a p p r o p r i a t e amount o f w a t e r s t i r r i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y . T h i s i s f o l l o w e d b y t h e a d d i t i o n o f a p r e s e r v a t i v e , e . g . G e r m a l l 1 1 5 . Then t h e s o l u t i o n i s a l l o w e d t o s w e l l f o r a b o u t 1 2 h o u r s . The s t o c k s u s p e n s i o n ( A ) and s o l u t i o n ( B ) a r e m i x e d a s a s s i g n e d (A:35%, B:50%, C:15% w a t e r ) and h o m o g e n i z e d . To t h e r e s u l t i n g Veegum/ K l u c e l s u s p e n s i o n a l l o t h e r components a r e added i n t h e o r d e r as i n d i c a t e d , w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Developed by D r . A. Thurn-Muller. Formula f r o m E . Merck Pearlescent Conditioning Shampoo

M

Veegum HV, MAS (5% D i s p . ) 14.00 H y d r o x y p r o p y l C e l l u l o s e ( 5 % S o l n ) (K1 u c e l G ) 20.00 D i s t i 1 l e d Water 11 . 5 0 8 : Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l WAQ S p e c . ) 30.00 H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ( N u t r i l a n L) 10 .oo C : Sodium C h l o r i d e 1.oo D i s t i l l e d Water 1.55 0 : D i a z o l i d i n y l U r e a ( G e r m a l l 11) 0.20 D i s t i 11ed W a t e r 1.55 E : T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( a n d ) M i c a ( T i m e r o n Super G o l d ) 0.20 C o c o - B e t a i n e ( D e h y t o n AB30) 10.00 Water s o l u b l e dyes, o p t i o n a l q.s. Procedure: P r e p a r e d i s p e r s i o n s i n advance; c o m b i n e A . Homogenize u n t i l n o u n d i s p e r s e d p a r t i c l e s r e m a i n . C o n t i n u e b a t c h w i t h s i desweep a g i t a t i o n . Add 8, i n o r d e r . Combine C , add t o b a t c h . Combine D, add t o b a t c h . Add E i n o r d e r , i n s u r i n g t h a t e a c h i s d i s p e r s e d before proceeding. F o r m u l a f r o m Rona

A:

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t

.

G o . , I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n s

Shampoos

Salon Conditioning Shampoo O p t i m i z e d c o n d i t i o n i n g l e v e l i s a c h i e v e d t h r o u g h use o f a P o l y q u t a C a t i o n i c P o l y m e r and R i t a p a n DL ( P r o - V i t a m i n 6-51) I

Inaredients : 1 Sodi urn L a u r e t h - 2 S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l E S - 2 ) 2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l ' L a c t y l a t e ) 3 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 4 . R i t a p a n DL ( d l -Pantheno1 ) 5 . L a n e t o - 5 0 (PEG-75 L a n o l in ) 6 . P o l y q u t a 400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 7 . Sodium C h l o r i d e ( 2 5 % S o l n . ) 8 . K a t h o n CG 9 . F r a g r a n c e - N a t u r e H a r v e s t 165-050 1 0 . D i s t i l l e d Water 1 l . A m a n d u l i n e S . G . ( H y d r o l y z e d Sweet Almond P r o t e i n )

.

%w/w 54.35 3.00 1 .oo 0.25 0.75 0.50 0.25 0.03 0.30 37.87 5.00

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 6 i n w a t e r a t 165F. Add i t e m 3 and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Then add i t e m 4 , 2, 1, 5 and 7 i n o r d e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 120F. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and p e r f u m e . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h NaCl R e f . No. 121-171

.

Conditioning Shampoo A r i c h shampoo c o n t a i n i n g A m a n d u l i n e SG and P a t i o n i c ISL f o r c o n d i t i o n i n g and h a i r r e p a i r .

Inaredients: 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 29% 2 . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e 29% 3 . R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 4 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 5 D i s t i 11e d / D e i o n i zed Water 6 . R i t a PEO-3 (PEG-23M) 7 . A m a n d u l i n e SG ( H y d r o l y z e d Sweet Almond P r o t e i n ) 8 . Glydant a

Compoundi ng Disperse mixing u n t i l R e f . No.

%w/w 25.00 20.00 5.00 3.50 40.80 0.50 5.00 0.20

Procedure: i t e m 6 i n t o i t e m 5 . Add i t e m s 1 - 4 and h e a t w h i l e u n i f o r m . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 40C. Add i t e m s 7 and 8 . 121-161C

SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

265

266

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shampoo

All Purpose for Normal Hair Weight% Ingredients: 50.00 Water 40.00 C a l foam ES-303 5.00 C a l t a i ne C-35 1 .50 C a l a m i d e LL 0.07 C i t r i c Acid 0.00 Fragrance, Dye(s) 2.50 NaCl Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1. Mix t h e f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s . 2 , Add C i t r i c A c i d t o a d j u s t t h e pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . 3 . Add t h e r e p o r t e d amount o f s a l t . S a l t c o n t e n t c a n b e a d j u s t e d t o a c h i eve d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y . 4 . F r a g r a n c e o r dye c o m p a t i b i l i t y were n o t e v a l u a t e d . F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-006-01 Shampoo

All Purpose for Oily Hair Wei g h t % Ingredients: 46.00 Water 25.00 C a l foam SLS-30 25.00 C a l foam ES-303 2.50 C a l a m i d e LL 0.10 C i t r i c Acid 0.00 Fragrance, Dye(s) 1.oo NaCl Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1. Mix t h e f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s . 2 . Add enough C i t r i c A c i d t o a d j u s t t h e p H t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . 3 . F r a g r a n c e o r d y e c o m p a t i b i l i t y was n o t e v a l u a t e d . F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-007-01 Shampoo-Inexpensive Weight% Ingredients: 45.70 Water 1.oo NH4C1 0.30 PEG-75 L a n o l i n 50.00 C a l foam ALS-30 3.00 Calamide C 0.00 P r e s e r v a t i ve 0.00 F r a g r a n c e , Dye Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . The i n g r e d i e n t s s h o u l d b e m i x e d i n o r d e r r e p o r t e d . 2 . I f needed, a d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d . F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-009-01 SOURCE: P i 1 o t C h e m i c a l Co, : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t i o n s

Shampoos

267

Shampoo-Clear Gel Type Ingredients: C a r b o p o l ETD 2020 ( 1 - 5 % ) D i s o d i um EDTA C a l foam TLS-40 Calamide C

O/oWt. 77.70 0.10 20 I O 0 2.00

Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : C a r b o p o l ETD 2 0 2 0 - H y d r o p h o b i c a l l y Modi f ie d P o l y a c r y l ic A c i d (Easy t o D i s p e r s e ) - 6 . F . G o o d r i c h 1 . A 1 . 5 % s o l u t i o n i n w a t e r i s p r e p a r e d b y d i s s o l v i n g t h e Carbop o l a t 40C. 2 . The d i s p e r s i o n i s s l i g h t l y h a z y w i t h g e l - l i k e c o n s i s t e n c y . 3 . P r o b a b l y e v e n a 1% s o l u t i o n w o u l d b e s u i t a b l e f o r t h i s app1 ic a t i o n , 4 . The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e g r a d u a l l y added i n t o t h e C a r b o p o l s o l ution. 5 . The b l e n d t u r n s c l e a r upon C a l f o a m TLS-40 a d d i t i o n . 6 . S t i r u n t i l t h e b l e n d i s homogeneous. 7. Without adjustment t h e pH i s 5-6. F o r m u l a t i o n #SHM-004-01 Shampoo-Clear Gel Type Insredients: C a r b o p o l ETD 2020 ( 1 . 5 % ) D i s o d i um EDTA C a l foam SLS-30 C a l foam ES-303 Calamide C

%Wt. 77 7 0 0.10 15.00 5.00 2.00 I

Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : C a r b o p o l ETD 2020 ( E a s y t o D i s p e r s e ) - H y d r o p h o b i c a l l y Modi f ied P o l y a c r y l i c Acid, 6 . F . G o o d r i c h 1 . A 1 . 5 % s o l u t i o n i s made b y d i s p e r s i n g t h e C a r b o p o l i n 40C warm w a t e r and s t i r r i n g . 2 . The d i s p e r s i o n i s s l i g h t l y h a z y w i t h g e l - l i k e c o n s i s t e n c y . 3 . P r o b a b l y even a 1% s o l u t i o n w o u l d b e s u i t a b l e f o r t h i s app1 ic a t i o n . 4 . The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e g r a d u a l l y added i n t o t h e C a r b o p o l s o l u t i o n and s t i r r e d u n t i l a homogeneous p r o d u c t i s p r e p a r e d . F o r m u l a t i o n #SHM-005-01 SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l C o n: F o r m u l a r y

268

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shampoo-Clear Liquid Conditioning Wei g h t % Ingredients: 55.00 Water 30.00 C a l foam ES-301 6.50 C a l t a i ne C-35 3.00 Cocami d o p r o p y l ami n e O x i d e 1.50 Calamide C 2.00 PEG-7 G1 y c e r y l C o c o a t e 2.00 PEG-1 5 C o c o p o l yami ne 0.00 Fragrance, Dye(s) 0.00 P r e s e r v a t iv e Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s , one a t a t i m e , i n t h e o r d e r g i v e n , u n d e r agitation. 2 . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 + - 0 . 5 W i t h C i t r i c A c i d . 3 . S m a l l a d d i t i o n o f s a l t c a n be u s e d t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y . F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-011-01 Shampoo-All Purpose Ingredients: Water C a l foam ES-302 C a l t a i ne C-35 Calamide C NaCl K a t h o n CG Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . M i x i n g r e d i e n t s as 1 i s t e d . 2 . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 3 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d . 3 . F o r m u l a i s s i m i l a r t o SHM-006-0. F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-010-01

Wei n h t % 51 . 2 0 40 0 0 5.00 3.00 0.75 0.05 I

Shampoo-Clear Liquid Wei g h t % Ingredients : 60.70 Water n - c o c o B e t a Amino P r o p i o n i c A c i d 7.00 C a l foam TLS-40 28.00 C a l a m i d e LL 4.00 0.00 Fragrance Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.25 K a t h o n CG 0.05 Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r g i v e n u n d e r a d e q u a t e a g i t a t i o n . ( i f f r a g r a n c e i s added, p r e - m i x i t w i t h C a l a m i d e L L ) . 2 . A d j u s t t o pH 6 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d . 3 . Adequate a g i t a t i o n i s i m p o r t a n t - o t h e r w i s e g e l - l i k e p a r t i c l e s w i l l f o r m upon s t a n d i n g f o r a f e w d a y s . F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-013-01 SOURCE: P i 1o t C h e m i c a l Co : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s I

Shampoos

269

Shampoo-Clear Viscous W_eig h t % 30.00

Ingredients: C a l B1 end C1 e a r F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

Q.S 1 .00-2.00 68.50

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 81 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n C l e a r . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e , and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 3,000-5,000 CPS (No. 4 S p i n d l e @ 10 rpm) w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f s o d i u m c h l o r i d e a s needed. Typical Formulation Properties: Appearance: C l e a r , V i scous L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 2 5 C : 3 , 0 0 0 - 5 , 0 0 0 cPs pH: 6 . 0 - 7 . 0 % Non V o l a t i l e s : 1 1 . 5 - 1 2 . 5 CTFA I d e n t if ic a t io n : W a t e r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide DEA, C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c A c i d , Dye(s). F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-019-01 Shampoo-Conditioning Ingredients: Water C a l foam SLS-30 C a l a m i d e LL Calamide C S i 1 ic o n e D i merami d o q u a t EG M o n o s t e a r a t e NaCl P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, F r a g r a n c e *

Wei q h t % 57.85 35.00 3.00 0.50 2.00 0.50 1 .oo 9.50

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . M i x i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r r e p o r t e d w h i l e h e a t i n g t o a b o u t 60C. 2 . C o o l b e f o r e a d d i ng f r a g r a n c e . 3 . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and d y e a s needed. 4 . A d j u s t pH t o 6 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d . * F r a g r a n c e , F r a g r a n c e #S-5704 - F i n e F l a v o r s & F r a g r a n c e s , I n c Formu 1a t ion SHM-0 1 7-0 1 SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l C o . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

270

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shampoo-Concentrate

%Wt.

Ingredients: Water P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l C a l foam TLS-40 Calamide C C a l a m i d e LL C a l foam ALS-30 C i t r i c Acid NaCl

12.75 8.00 20 * 00 12.50 12.50 26.00 0.75 7.50

Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : 1 . M i x w a t e r and P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l . 2 . Add t h e n e x t t h r e e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o t h e w a t e r / P G s o l u t i o n 3 . The l a s t s u r f a c t a n t added i s ALS-30; t h e b l e n d becomes v i scous 4 . A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h C i t r i c A c i d (pH 6 - 7 ) . 5 . Add NaCl l a s t . The c o n c e n t r a t e i s v e r y v i s c o u s . 6 . Add P e r f u m e , D y e ( s ) and P r e s e r v a t i v e a s d e s i r e d . 7 . F i n i s h e d shampoo c a n b e made b y d i l u t i n g 1 p a r t c o n c e n t r a t e w i t h 7-15 p a r t s w a t e r . F o r m u l a t i o n #SHM-008-01 I

Shampoo Clear Liquid Conditioning

O/oWt.

Ingredients: Water C a l foam ES-301 C a l t a i ne C-35 Cocami d o p r o p y l ami ne O x i d e Calamide C PEG-7 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e PEG-1 5 Cocopol yami ne Fragrance, Dye(s) P r e s e r v a t iv e

55.00 30.00 6.50 3.00 1 .50 2.00 2.00 0.00 0.00

Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : 1 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s , one a t a t i m e , i n t h e o r d e r g i v e n , u n d e r agitation. 2 . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 + - 0 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d . 3 . S m a l l a d d i t i o n o f s a l t c a n be u s e d t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y . F o r m u l a t i o n #SHM-011-01 SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l C o . :

Formulary

Shampoos

271

Shampoo-Concentrate Wei q h t % 12.75 8.00 20.00 12.50 12.50 26.00 0.75 7.50

Ingredients: Water P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l C a l f o a m TLS-40 Calamide C Calamide LL C a l foam ALS-30 C i t r i c Acid NaCl

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . M i x w a t e r and P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l . 2 . Add t h e n e x t t h r e e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o t h e w a t e r / P G s o l u t i o n . 3 . The l a s t s u r f a c t a n t added i s ALS-30; t h e b l e n d becomes v i s c o u s 4 . A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h C i t r i c A c i d (pH 6 - 7 ) . 5 . Add NaCl l a s t . The c o n c e n t r a t e i s v e r y v i s c o u s . 6 . Add P e r f u m e , D y e ( s ) and P r e s e r v a t i v e as d e s i r e d . 7 . F i n i s h e d shampoo c a n be made by d i l u t i n g 1 p a r t c o n c e n t r a t e w i t h 7-15 p a r t s w a t e r . F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-008-01 Shampoo-Cream Weight%

Ingredients: Part A: C a l foam SLS-30 Stearic Acid PEG-5 Soya S t e r o l

45.00 7.50 1 .oo

Part 0 : Water NaOH, 50% NaCl

43.50 1.00 2.00

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . H e a t P a r t A and P a r t B ( s e p a r a t e l y ) t o 70C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 2 . Add P a r t A t o P a r t B . 3 . Cool w h i l e s t i r r i n g . 4 . Add P e r f u m e , D y e ( s ) and P r e s e r v a t i v e a s needed a t 45C. 5 . The E t h o x y l a t e d Soya S t e r o l p r o v i d e s a d e s i r a b l e a f t e r shampoo sheen t o t h e h a i r . F o r m u l a t i o n SHM-012-01 SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l C o . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

272

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shampoo-Cream

% A

Ingredients : C a l s o f t T-60 Calamide 0 C a l foam EA-603 Stearic Acid NaOH, 50% S o l u t i o n C i t r i c Acid Water

22.00 4.75 16.00 7.00 0.50 0.10 49.65

Comments A b o u t T h i s F o r m u l a : 1. Mix t h e f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r . 2 . Apply h e a t t o m e l t t h e S t e a r i c A c i d (75C). 3 . Add C a u s t i c and C i t r i c A c i d i n t o w a t e r and h e a t t o a b o u t 60-7OC. 4 . Add t h e s o l u t i o n i n t o t h e s u r f a c t a n t b l e n d w i t h s t i r r i n g . 5 . Cool t h e p r o d u c t w h i l e s t i r r i n g . 6 . The p r o d u c t i s a s o f t cream F o r m u l a t i o n #SHM-001-01

Shampoo Ingredients: Water C a l foam SLS-30 C a l foam ES-303 Calamide C C i t r i c Acid Sodium C h l o r i d e P e r f u m e & Dye

S/oWt. 74.45 5.00 16.00 2.00 0.10 2.50 0.10

Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : 1 . Mix t h e f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s (pH=lO). 2 . Add C i t r i c A c i d ( a p p r o x i m a t e l y 0 . 1 % ) t o a d j u s t pH t o a b o u t 6 . 3 . Add s a l t t o t h e d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y . 4 . P e r f u m e and d y e as d e s i r e d . F o r m u l a t i o n #SHM-003-01 SOURCE : P i 1 o t Chemi c a l Co. : Formul a r y

Shampoos

273

Shampoo with Silicone S t a n e M a t e r i a1 : Quantity Stage A: 1 Water; Pure 47,3909 0.5009 2 P o l y m e r J R 400 3 K a t h o n CG 1 0 0 0.1009 Stage B: 4 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l p h a t e (SLES) 1 8 , ooog 5 E m p i c o l TL 4 0 t 17,5009 6 Texapon SBN 9.5009 Stage C: 7 E m p i l a n EGMS 1.ooog 8 E m p i l a n LDE 2 . ooog S t a g e D: 9 AEC D i m e t h i c o n e ( & ) L a u r e t h - 4 ( a ) L a u r e t h - 2 3 4 . OOOg Stage E: 10 Sodium H y d r o x i d e 33% 0.01og Mixing Instructions: Weigh o u t w a t e r and s t a r t h e a t i n g . D i s p e r s e P o l y m e r JR and add K a t h o n . Add i t e m s o f P a r t B and b r i n g t o 65/70C. S t i r i n i t e m s o f P a r t C and s t i r u n t i l d i s s o l v e d , more h e a t i n g may be r e q u i r e d . Add S i l i c o n e CM2139-D1 and S i l v e r s o n m i x - do n o t i n t r o d u c e a i r - A d j u s t pH. Cool w i t h s l o w s t i r r i n g . SOURCE: A & E Connock L t d . : P r o j e c t JW 2 4 6 5 / F o r m u l a R e f . : 1067*0 Gentle Everyday Shampoo T h i s m i l d shampoo i s s u i t a b l e f o r e v e r y d a y u s e . A c l e a r , w a t e r - w h i t e , v i s c o u s shampoo w i t h e x c e l 1 e n t h e a t s t a b i 1 it y . Wei a h t % Ingredients: 9 , s . t o 100.00 D i s t i 11 ed w a t e r 19.60 S o d i um 1 a u r e t h s u l f a t e , 28% 11 .oo Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e , 35% S o d i um l a u r o y l s a r c o s i n a t e , 30% 9.60 2 -90 PEG-1 50 d i s t e a r a t e 1.10 B e n e c e l MP 943 R Methylchloroisothiazolinone and m e t h y l i s o t h i a z a o l i n e , 1.5% 0.08 Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e t h e Benecel by a d d i n g t o t h e v o r t e x o f w e l l - a g i t a t e d w a t e r . H e a t i n g t o 40-45C w i l l a c c e l e r a t e h y d r a t i o n . M i x u n t i l f u l l y dissolved. 2 . Add t h e s u r f a c t a n t s , one a t a t i m e , m i x i n g w e l l b e t w e e n e a c h addi t i on. 3 . H e a t t o 70-75C. Add t h e PEG-150 d i s t e a r a t e . M i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Turn heat o f f . 4 . When t e m p e r a t u r e r e a c h e s 40C o r b e l o w , add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t iv e . SOURCE: Aqua1 on : B u l l e t i n VC-526D: P e r f o r m a n c e o f B e n e c e l

274

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Temporary Color-In Shampoo Ingredients: Wei g h t % Phase A : Water 36.40 T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 0.05 C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e E ) 7.00 L a u r y l G1 u c o s i d e (Tego G1 u c o s i d 121 6 ) 6.50 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 1.25 PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e C o c o a t e ( A n t i 1 1 7 1 ) 2.00 Cocami d o p r o p y l ami ne O x i d e ( A m i n o x i d WS 3 5 ) 5.00 Q u a t e r n i u m - 8 0 ( A b i l Quat 3272) 0.30 D i s o d i um Cocoamphodi p r o p i o n a t e 18.00 Phase B: PEG-7 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ( T e g o s o f t GC) 2.50 B a s i c B l u e 99 1 B a s i c Brown 1 6 ) B l e n d as needed A c i d V i o l e t 43 ) for color 1.oo B a s i c Red 76 1 B a s i c Y e l l o w 57 ) Water 20.00 Phase C : Fragrance Q.S. Preservatives Q.S. Phase D: C i t r i c A c i d 25% S o l u t i o n t o pH 6 . 5 Procedure: 1 . H e a t t h e w a t e r o f Phase A t o 50C. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A i n o r d e r , m i x i n g b e t w e e n a d d i t i o n s . 2 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase 0 . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 3 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase C . M i x . H e a t t o 50C. 4 . Add Phase B t o Phase C . M i x w e l l . 5 . Add Phase B/C t o Phase A . M i x . 6 . Cool t o 40C. A d j u s t pH and f r a g r a n c e . SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s Shampoo-Cream Weight% Ingredients: 22.00 C a l s o f t T-60 4.75 Calamide 0 16.00 C a l foam EA-603 7.00 Stearic Acid 0.50 NaOH, 50% S o l u t i o n 0.10 C i t r i c Acid 49.65 Water Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1. Mix t h e f i r s t four ingredients together. 2 . Apply heat t o m e l t t h e S t e a r i c A c i d (75C). 3 . Add C a u s t i c and C i t r i c A c i d i n t o w a t e r and h e a t t o a b o u t 60-7OC. 4 . Add t h e s o l u t i o n i n t o t h e s u r f a c t a n t b l e n d w i t h s t i r r i n g . 5 . Cool t h e p r o d u c t w h i l e s t i r r i n g . 6 . The p r o d u c t i s a s o f t c r e a m . SOURCE: P i 1o t C h e m i c a l Co : F o r m u l a SHM-001-01 I

Shampoos

275

Transparent Shampoo Wei q h t % 25.0

M i r a c a r e MPC C i t r i c A c i d ( t o pH 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 ) Fragrance, Dye(s), P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

Q.S. Q.S. 0.6-1.6 74.0

81 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n M i r a c a r e MPC. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d a s needed. Add c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D ye (s) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o d e s i r e d c o n s i s t e n c y w i t h t h e j u d i c i o u s a d d i t i o n o f Sodium C h l o r i d e a s needed. Typical Formulation A p p e a r a n c e (3 25C: V i s c o s i t y (3 25C: pH: 5.5-6.5 % Non V o l a t i l e s :

Properties: Clear L i q u i d 4,000-6,000 cps 10-12

CTFA I d e n t if ic a t io n : W a t e r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide DEA, Sodium C h l o r i d e , Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t iv e , C i t r i c A c i d, Dye(s). SOURCE: Rhone P o u l e n c S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s :

F o r m u l a 91-1008

Shampoo Water C a l foam SLS-30 C a l foam ES-303 Calamide C C i t r i c Acid NaCl F r a g r a n c e , Dye P i l o t F o r m u l a #SHM-003-01

Weight% 74.40 5.00 16.00 2.00 0.10 2.50 Q.S.

All Purpose Shampoo Water C a l foam ES-302 C a l t a i ne C-35 Calamide C NaCl K a t h o n CG P i l o t F o r m u l a #SHM-010-01 SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l Cor : P e r s o n a l C a r e F o r m u l a t i o n s

Weight% 51 . 2 0 40.00 5.00 3.00 0.75 0.05

276

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Water White Shampoo from a Blend % b y Wei a h t 25.00 0.50 Q . S . t o 100.00 0.20 0.11

A g e n t 1829-50* Sodium C h l o r i d e D . I. W a t e r DMDM H y d a n t o i n C i t r i c A c i d (50%) Sodium C h l o r i d e

Q. S

M i x i ng Procedure : Mix f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r . A d j u s t pH t o 6.5-7.0 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . A d d i t i o n a l s o d i u m c h l o r i d e may be added t o i n c r e a s e v i s c o s i t y . * C o n t a i n s Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e , L a u r a m i d e DEA, C i t r i c A c i d

Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ,

Premium Water White Shampoo % b y Wei p h t 25.0 10.0 10.0 3.0 Q.S. t o 1 0 0 . 0 Q.S. 0.06

Stepan-Mi 1d LSB S t e o l CS-330 Amphosol CA Ninol 4 0 4 0 D. I . Water C i t r i c A c i d (50%) K a t h o n CG Sodium C h l o r i d e

Q.S.

M i x i n g Procedure: Mix f i r s t f i v e i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r . A d j u s t pH t o 6.5-7.0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e . Sodium c h l o r i d e may b e added t o i n c r e a s e v i s c o s i t y . Water White Shampoo % by Weiaht

D . I . Water Stepan-Mi 1 d LSB S t e o l CA-130 N i n o l 96-SL DMDM H y d a n t o i n C i t r i c A c i d (50%) Sodium C h l o r i d e

Q.S. t o 100.0 24.0 15.4 2.0 0.25 Q.S. 1.o

M i x i ng Procedure : Mix f i r s t four ingredients together w i t h heat. (Heating t o 1 5 0 F ) . M i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s . C o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h m i x i n g . Add DMDM H y d a n t o i n and a d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . V i s c o s i t y can be a d j u s t e d w i t h a d d i t i o n a l sodium c h l o t i d e . SOURCE:

S t e p a n Co.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Shampoos

277

3 in 1 Antidandruff Shampoo 17.2% active ingredient Reci pe : A Octopirox

Wei a h t % 0.40

B

Water

10.00

C

Genapol LRO l i q u i d H o s t a p o n KCG Genamin KSL C e t i o l HE B e l s i 1 DMC 6032 M e r q u a t 550 Fragrance

30.00 5.00 2.00 1 .oo 2.00 5.00 0.30

D

Water

30.30

E

G l u c a m a t e DOE 120

F

Genagen CAB Genapol L-3 Genapol TSM Procedure: 1 Mix A w i t h 8. 2 Add t h e components o f C t o 1 and s t i r w e l l . 3 D i s s o l v e E i n D, add t o 1 and s t i r w e l l . 4 S t i r t h e components o f F one a f t e r a n o t h e r i n t o 1 5 A d j u s t t h e pH t o 6 . 0 Formula BI/6142

1 .oo

8.00 2 -00

3.00

H a i r Shampoo For daily use, clear, 15.8% active ingredient Recipe: A Genapol LRO l i q u i d B

Genapol AMG H o s t a p o n KCG Fragrance Water D y e s t u f f sol u t i on Preservative Genagen CAB Genapol L-3

C Sodium c h l o r i d e Procedure: 1 S t i r t h e components o f B one a f t e r a n o t h e r i n t o A . 2 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. 3 F i n a l l y adjust the v i s c o s i t y w i t h C. Formula BI/1130

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e R e c i p e s f o r t h e C o s m e t i c I n d u s t r y

Wt% 30.00 8.00 5.00 0.30 46.70 q.s. 9,s. 6.00 2.00 2.00

Section IX Shaving Products

2 78

Shaving Products

279

Brushless Shave Cream % by Weight Formul a : A: 78.193 Dei o n i zed Water 5.000 G1 y c e r i ne 0.857 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne B: 0.100 M e t h o c e l 40-1 00 (Dow) C: Stearic Acid 10.000 Stearyl Alcohol 0.500 A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l in A l c o h o l 1.500 1.500 White Protopet 1s (Witco) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE 1.500 D: D e i o n i z e d Water 0.500 Dowi c i 1 200 A n t i m i c r o b i a1 0.200 E: Perfume O i 1 -A1 mond 0.150 Procedure: M i x A a t room t e m p . 10 m i n . , t h a n add B and m i x u n t i l comp l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . B e g i n h e a t i n g A&B and, i n s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , combine and h e a t C i n g r e d i e n t s . When b o t h m i x t u r e s a r e between 75 and 8OC, c o m b i n e w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . When b a t c h c o o l s b e l o w 45C add D . Add E when b a t c h is b e l o w 40C. Brushless Shave Cream Formula: A: Dei o n i zed Water Glycerine B: M e t h o c e l 40-100 C: Triethanolamine D: Stearic Acid S t e a r y l A1 c o h o l A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l in A1 c o h o l White Fonoline Petrolatum (Witco) G1 y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE

% by Weiqht

78.193 5 000 I

0.100 0.857

10.000 0.500 1.500 1.500 1.500

E: Dei o n i zed Water 0.500 Dowi c i 1 200 P r e s e r v a t i v e 0.200 F: Perfume O i 1 ( A l m o n d ) 0.150 Procedure: M i x A i n g r e d i e n t s a t room temp. f o r 10 m i n s . , t h e n add B w i t h a g i t a t i o n , t h e n C . The d i s p e r s e d M e t h o c e l w i 11 h y d r a t e i n a b o u t 15 m i n s . B e g i n h e a t i n g t h e s o l u t i o n and i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l combine and h e a t D . When b o t h m i x t u r e s a r e 75-8OC c o m b i n e w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . When b a t c h c o o l s t o 45C add E . Add F when b a t c h i s b e l o w 40C. SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

280

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Non-Foaming Shaving Gel T h i s non-foaming shave g e l i s u n i q u e l y d e s i g n e d t o g i v e e x c e l l e n t r a z o r g l i d e w i t h o u t u s i n g w a t e r . Areas o f suggested u s e a r e a s a t r a v e l s h a v i n g g e l , an e t h n i c p r o d u c t o r f o r p r o b l e m s k i n where b l e m i s h e s o r o t h e r s e n s i t i v e areas a r e v is ible. Sequence Raw M a t e r i a1 : Weight% 1 S t a n d a m i d LD 5.50 1 S t e o l CS-460 4.50 1 L i p o c o l 0/95 3.00 1 L i p o c o l S-20 6.50 1 L i p o n a t e IPM 5.00 1 L i p o n i c EG-1 10.00 1 U l t r a o l 70 N F 15.00 1 P a n a l ene L-14E 5.00 2 D e i o n i z e d Water 45.25 2 Methylparaben 0.25 Procedure: 1 . P r e m i x Sequence #1 i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 80C w i t h medium speed on o v e r h e a d m i x e r . 2 . H e a t P r e m i x e d Sequence #2 t o 80C and m i x u n t i l t h e m e t h y l paraben i s c o m p l e t e l y s o l u b i l i z e d . 3 . Add Sequence #2 t o Sequence #1 w i t h medium speed and s l o w l y allow t o cool. SOURCE: L i p 0 C h e m i c a l s I n c , : F o r m u l a t i o n No, 898 After Shave Balm Innredi ents: Weight% Phase A : SD A l c o h o l 40A 30.00 Water 30.00 Carbomer 940 0.40 Phase B : Water 5.74 Triethanolamine 0.56 A1 1 a n t o i n 0.20 Phase C : G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) Ceteth-20 ( T e g i n a c i d H) 0.75 S t e a r e t h - 7 (and) S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) Steareth-10 ( E m u l g a t o r 2155) 0.75 D e c y l O l e a t e ( T e g o s o f t DO) 3.00 Isopropyl Stearate (Tegosoft S) 3.00 Menthol 0.05 Phase D : Water 25.55 Phase E: Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e t h e Carbomer i n t h e w a t e r a n d a l c o h o l . 2 . M i x Phase B and add t o Phase A . M i x w e l l . 3 . H e a t Phase C t o 80C. 4 . H e a t t h e w a t e r (Phase D ) t o 80C and add t o Phase C . B e g i n h o m o g e n i z a t i o n and c o o l t o 50C. 5 . U s i n g sweep m i x e r , add Phase A/B t o Phase C / D . Homogenize. Sweep m i x c o o l t o 30C. D i spense. SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

Shaving Products

281

Shave Gel The r i c h l a t h e r o f t h i s s h a v i n g g e l h a s good foam and l u b r i c i t y with low i r r i t a n c y characteristics. Inqredients : 1 D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i z e d Water 2 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 3 . P a t i o n i c 138C ( S o d i u L a u r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 4 . R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 5 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 6. Titanium Dioxide 7 . R i t a PEO-1 (PEG-5M) 8 . Methylparaben 9 . Perfume 10.Glydant 11 . T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 50% 1 2 . S o d i u m C h l o r i d e (25% s o l u t i o n )

.

%w/w 53.73 26 67 10.00 4.00 2.00 0.50 0.10 0.10 0.20 0.20 t-2.00 + - O n 50 I

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : H e a t i t e m s 1-8 t o 165F w h i l e m i x i n g . N e u t r a l i z e t o p H 7 . 5 w i t h T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . Cool t o 120F a n d add i t e m s 9 and 1 0 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e s o l u t i o n . R e f . No. 122-91 Low Alcohol Moisturizing Lotion A m o i s t u r i z i n g , l o w a l c o h o l , opaque a f t e r s h a v e , w h i c h h a s a cooling, soothing skin-tightening feel with a substantive a f t e r f e e l f r o m t h e P a t l a c I L and P a t i o n i c I S L . Inqredients: 1 . A c r i t a m e r 941 (Carbomer) 2 . D i s t i 11 e d / D e i o n i z e d W a t e r 3. Patlac I L (Isostearyl Lactate) 4 . R i t a p r o 165 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e and PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) 5 . P a t i o n i c I S L ( S o d i um I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 6 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 7. Myristyl Lactate 8 . T r i e t h a n o l ami ne ( 5 0 % ) 9 . A l c o h o l SD 40 l O . P e r f u m e , A . S . Type

0.75 81.61 1 .oo 0.50 1.00 0.50 1.00 0.64 12.00 1.oo

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : NOTE: A sweep a g i t a t o r i s recommended f o r t h i s p r o d u c t . Weigh i t e m s 1-2 and i t e m s 3 - 7 and h e a t t o 165F. S l o w l y a d d i t e m s 3 - 7 t o i t e m s 1-2, t a k i n g c a r e n o t t o e n t r a p a i r . Cool t o 140F. Add i t e m s 8 - 9 . Cool t o 11OF and add i t e m 1 0 . A d j u s t p H t o 5 . 3 . Pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r s . V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d RVF H e l i o p a t h TA @ 10 rpm @ 27C: 6 4 6 0 ~ ~ ~ R e f . No. 122-90

SOURCE:

R . I , T . A , Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Section X Soaps and Hand Cleaners

282

Soaps and Hand Cleaners

283

Anti-Bacterial Handsoap Inqredients: CalB1 end C1 e a r N i p a c i d e PX P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Versene 100 F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

%Wt 35.0 0.75

1 .50 0.20 Q.S. Q.S. 62.55

Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : 51 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d C a l B l e n d C l e a r and V e r s e n e 100 i n t o w a t e r and m i x u n t i 1 u n i f o r m . I n a s e p a r a t e m i x i n g v e s s e l , d i s p e r s e N i p a c i d e PX i n p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l a n d , w i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , warm s l i g h t l y u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d t h e p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l / P X m i x t u r e i n t o t h e m a i n C a l B l e n d C l e a r s y s t e m and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . I f d e s i r e d , t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h e s y s t e m may b e i n c r e a s e d w i t h t h e t r a c e a d d i t i o n ( 0 . 0 5 - 0 . 2 5 % ) o f sodium c h l o r i d e o r decreased w i t h t h e a d d i t i o n ( 0 . 2 - 0 . 5 % ) o f p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l a s needed. Typical Formulation Properties: Active Ingredient: Chloroxylenol A p p e a r a n c e : C1 e a r L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 6 , 0 0 0 - 1 0 , 0 0 0 c p s pH: 6 . 5 - 7 . 5 CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide DEA, C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e , S o d i urn Chloride, Fragrance, Preservative, Tetras o d i u m EDTA, C i t r i c A c i d , D y e ( s ) . SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-019-01

284

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Baby Mild Cleansing Bar (Formula 91-1103) T h i s h i g h f o a m i n g c l e a n s i n g b a r i s m i l d enough f o r baby u s e . T h e r e f o r e , i t i s p e r f e c t f o r anyone who w a n t s a good c l e a n s i n g product f o r s e n s i t i v e skin. I t s non-alkaline formula gently c l e a n s e s t h e s k i n w i t h o u t t h e d r y i n g e f f e c t s o f soap. I t s e m o l l i e n t s and m o i s t u r i z e r s l e a v e t h e s k i n f e e l i n g c l e a n , s o f t and smooth. % by W e i g h t

Step A: Geropon AS-200 ( R h o n e - P o u l e n c ) S t e a r i c A c i d , T r i p l e Pressed W i c k e n o l 550 (CasChem) Titanium Dioxide Step 8 : DV-3284*

64.0 Q.S. 6.0 0.2 6.0

(Rhone-Poulenc)

Step C: Water Sodium C h l o r i d e S t e p D: Fragrance, *DV-3284

Dye(s),

4.0 0.4

Q.S.

Preservative

i s a 55% aqueous s o l u t i o n o f Sodium I s e t h i o n a t e

81 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : Step A : B l e n d t h e d r y components (Geropon AS-200, S t e a r i c A c i d , W i c k e n o l 5 5 0, T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ) i n a powder m i x e r . S t e p B: S l o w l y and e v e n l y ,

add t h e DV-3284 t o S t e p A t o a v o i d wet

SPOtS.

S t e p C: D i s s o l v e t h e Sodium C h l o r i d e and any o t h e r w a t e r s o l u b l e components i n t h e w a t e r and u n i f o r m l y add t o S t e p s A and B t o a v o i d wet s p o t s , Step D: F i n a l l y , add t h e f r a g r a n c e e v e n l y t o t h e b a t c h . When u n i f o r m l y m i x e d , m i l l a n d / o r r e f i n e t h e b a t c h u n t i l i t i s homogeneous. E x t r u d e and stamp i n t o b a r s . T y p i c a l Formul a t ion P r o p e r t i es : A p p e a r a n c e : Opaque Bar pH (5% d i s p e r s i o n ) : 5-6

SOURCE:

Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : f o r Personal Care

Formulation

Soaps and Hand Cleaners

285

Hand Cleaners

Anti-Bacterial Handsoap Innredients : Wei n h t % CalB1 end C1 e a r 35.00 N i p a c i d e PX 0.75 Propylene Glycol 1.50 V e r s e n e 100 0.20 Q.S. F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Q.S Water 62.55 Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : Blending Procedure: W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d C a l B l e n d C l e a r and V e r s e n e 100 i n t o w a t e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . I n a s e p a r a t e m i x i n g v e s s e l , d i s p e r s e N i p a c i d e PX i n p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and, w i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , warm s l i g h t l y u n t i l c l e a r a n d u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , slowly blend the propylene glycol/PX mixture i n t o t h e m a i n C a l B l e n d C l e a r s y s t e m and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . I f d e s i r e d , t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h e s y s t e m may b e i n c r e a s e d w i t h t h e t r a c e a d d i t i o n (0.05-0.25%) o f sodium c h l o r i d e o r de c re as ed w i t h t h e a d d i t i o n ( 0 . 2 - 0 . 5 % ) o f p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l as needed. Typical Formulation Properties : Active I n g r e d i e n t : Chloroxyl enol Appearance: C l e a r L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 6 , 0 0 0 - 1 0 , 0 0 0 c p s pH: 6 . 5 - 7 . 5 CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide DEA, C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA, C i t r i c A c i d , D y e ( s ) . F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-019-01 Waterless Liquid Innredients: Wei nht% White Mineral O i l 30.00 Deodori zed Kerosene 10.00 EGMS ( E t h y l e n e G l y c o l M o n o s t e a r a t e ) 5.00 C a l imu1 se PRS 5.00 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 5.00 Ethoxy L a n o l i n ( 7 5 Mole) 6.00 Water 39.00 Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : P a r t A : W h i t e M i n e r a l O i l , K e r o s e n e , EGMS, and C a l i m u l s e PRS. Combine and h e a t t o 160F t o m e l t EGMS. P a r t B : P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l , E t h o x y L a n o l i n and w a t e r . Combine a n d h e a t t o 160F. Combine p a r t s A and B. P a r t C : Dye and P e r f u m e i f d e s i r e d . C o o l A and B, b l e n d b e l o w 11 OF b e f o r e a d d i n g . F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-009-01 SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l C o . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

286

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hand Cleaner, Heavy Duty Phase A: Ingredients: d - L i monene C a l o x y 1 a t e N-9 P i 1o t SXS-40

4bWt 35.00 13.00 4.00

Phase B : Ingredients: Water C a l s o f t AOS-40 C a l f a x 1 OL-45 Calamide C

%Wt 30.00 4.00 10.00 4.00

Comments A b o u t T h i s F o r m u l a : P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l c a n b e u s e d i n s t e a d o f SXS-40. Phase A - O r g a n i c Phase: M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d . Upon SXS-40 a d d i t i o n , t h e b l e n d i s s l i g h t l y h a z y ( t h e b l e n d i s c l e a r when P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l i s used). Phase 0-Aqueous Phase: Mix t h e ingredients i n order l i s t e d . Add Phase A i n t o Phase B w i t h v i g o r o u s m i x i n g . A w h i t e creamy p a s t e i s f o r m e d . T h i s i s a good g r e a s e c u t t i n g hand c l e a n e r . F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-004-01 Hand Cleaner, Liquid, Soap

%Wt

Ingredients: C a l foam SLS-30 C a l t a i n e C-35 Calamide C EGMS C i t r i c Acid K a t h o n CG N i p a c i d e PX Water Ammonium C h l o r i d e

27.64 5.00 3.04 1.77 0.09 0.09 0.09 62.01 0.25

Forrnul a t ion #HAN-005-01

SOURCE: Pilot C h e m i c a l C o . :

Formulary

Soaps and Hand Cleaners

287

Hand Cleaners Liquid Dispenser Type Wei q h t % 53.00 5.00 9.50 32.40 0.10

IngredientsL D e o d o r i z e d Kerosene White Mineral O i l C a l s u d s CD-6 Water Perfume

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : P a r t A : K e r o s e n e , W h i t e O i l , and C a l s u d s CD-6. B l e n d and h e a t t o 70C. P a r t 8: W a t e r . H e a t s e p a r a t e l y t o 70C. Then c o m b i n e and m i x w i t h Part A. P a r t C : P e r f u m e . C o o l P a r t A and B m i x t u r e t o 25C b e f o r e a d d i n g Part C. Formul a t i on HAN-001-01 Liquid Dispenser Type: Pearlescent Ingredi

entsl C a l foam SLS-30 EGMS ( E t h y l e n e G l y c o l M o n o s t e a r a t e ) C a l a m i d e LL K a t h o n CG Perfume, C o l o r Water C i t r i c Acid

Wei q h t % 25.00 2.00 5.00 0.20 0.10 67.60 0.10

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . Warm t o 140F t o d i s p e r s e t h e EGMS. 2. V i s c o s i t y 1,200 cPs. F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-002-01 Liquid Dispenser Type: Pearlescent Wei n h t % 15.00 3.70 1.25 1.oo 0.50 78.55

m e d i e n t s : C a l s u d s CD-6 C a l s o f t LAS-99 P i 1 o t SXS-40 Opacifier K a t h o n CG Water Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d Forrnul a t i o n HAN-003-01 SOURCE: P i 1o t C h e m i c a l Co : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t io n s I

288

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hand Cleaners Liquid Soap Inqredients: C a l foam SLS-30 C a l t a i ne C-35 Calamide C EGMS ( E t h y l e n e G l y c o l M o n o s t e a r a t e ) C i t r i c Acid K a t h o n CG N i p a c i d e PX Water Ammoni urn C h l o r i d e Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : Mix a l l t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n order l i s t e d . F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-005-01

Weight% 27.64 5.00 3.04 1.77 0.09 0.09 0.09 62.01 0.25

Liquid Soap Weighty? Ingredients; 28.00 C a l foam SLS-30 C a l t a i ne C-35 5.00 Calamide C 3.00 EGMS ( E t h y l e n e G l y c o l M o n o s t e a r a t e ) 1.oo P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 1.oo PEG 46M 0.50 K a t h o n CG 0.05 C i t r i c Acid 0.20 Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . I n g r e d i e n t s 1 - 6 c o m b i n e d a n d h e a t e d t o 70C t o m e l t EGMS. 2 . K a t h o n CG added a f t e r c o o l i n g b e f o r e a d j u s t i n g pH. 3 . Sodium C h l o r i d e (1%) c a n b e added t o a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y ( in c r e a s e ) . F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-016-01 Liquid, Soap, Antiseptic Weight% Inqredients: 27.42 C a l foam SLS-30 5.00 C a l s o f t T-60 Calamide C 3.02 1.76 EGMS ( E t h y l e n e G1 y c o l M o n o s t e a r a t e ) C i t r i c Acid 0.08 0.09 K a t h o n CG 0.09 N i p a c i d e PX Water 61 - 5 4 1.oo Ammoni urn C h l o r i de Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s 1-5 and h e a t t o 55C t o m e l t EGMS. 2 . C o o l b e l o w 50C b e f o r e a d d i n g K a t h o n and N i p a c i d e . 3 . Add C i t r i c A c i d t o a d j u s t pH. 4 . Add Ammonium C h l o r i d e t o a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y . F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-017-01 SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l C o . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Soaps and Hand Cleaners

289

Hand Cleaner-Liquid Dispenser Type

& W A

Ingredients: Deodor ized K e r o s e n e White M i n e r a l O i 1 C a l s u d s CD-6 Water Perfume

53.00 5.00 9.50 32.40 0.10

Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : P a r t A : K e r o s e n e , W h i t e O i 1 , and C a l s u d s CD-6. B l e n d and h e a t t o 70C. P a r t B : W a t e r . H e a t s e p a r a t e l y t o 70C t h e n combine and m i x w i t h P a r t A. P a r t C : P e r f u m e . Cool P a r t A & B m i x t u r e t o 25C b e f o r e a d d i n g P a r t C. F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-001-01

Hand Cleaner-Liquid Dispenser Type, Pearlescent

SbWt

I n c l r e d i ents: C a l foam SLS-30 EGMS Calamide LL K a t h o n CG Perfume, C o l o r Water C i t r i c Acid

25.00 2.00 5.00 0.20 0.10 67.60 0.10

Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : 1 . EGMS-Ethylene G l y c o l M o n o s t e a r a t e 2 . Warm t o 140F t o d i s p e r s e t h e EGMS 3 . V i s c o s i t y - 1 ,200 cPs. #HAN-002-01

Hand Cleaner-Liquid Dispenser Type, Pearlescent Innredients: C a l s u d s CD-6 C a l s o f t LA.S-99 P i l o t SXS-40 O p a c i f ie r K a t h o n CG Water F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-003-01

SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l Co. : F o r m u l a r y

15.00 3.70 1.25 1 .oo 0.50 78.55

290

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hand Cleaner, Liquid, Soap Antiseptic

Q &

Ingredients : C a l foam SLS-30 Cal s o f t T-60 Calamide C EGMS C i t r i c Acid K a t h o n CG N i p a c i d e PX Water Ammonium C h l o r i d e

27.42 5.00 3.02 1.76 0.08 0.09 0.09 61.54 1.oo

Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : EGMS-Ethylene G l y c o l M o n o s t e a r a t e . 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s 1-5 and h e a t t o 55C t o m e l t EGMS. 2 . Cool b e l o w 50C b e f o r e a d d i n g K a t h o n and N i p a c i d e . 3 . Add C i t r i c A c i d t o a d j u s t pH. 4 . Add Ammonium C h l o r i d e t o a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y . F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-017-01 Handsoap-Clear Liquid Ingredients: C a l B1 end C1 e a r F r a g r a n c e , Dye P r e s e r v a t iv e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

O/oWt 30.0 Q.S. Q.S. 1-2 68.5

Comments About t h i s F o r m u l a : 81 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n C l e a r . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , d y e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 3,000-5,000 cps ( N o . 4 S p i n d l e f j 10 rpm) w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f s o d i u m c h l o r i d e a s needed. T y p i c a l F o r m u l a t ion P r o p e r t ies : A p p e a r a n c e : C1 e a r , V i s c o u s L i q u i d pH: 6 . 0 - 7 . 0 V i s c o s i t y f j 25C: 3 , 0 0 0 - 5 , 0 0 0 % Non V o l a t i l e s : 1 1 . 5 - 1 2 . 5 CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide DEA, C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e , S o d i um C h l o r i d e , Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c Acid, D y e ( s ) . Formul a t i on #HAN-018-01

SOURCE: P i 1o t C h e m i c a l Co. : F o r m u l a r y

Soaps and Hand Cleaners

Hand Cleaners Powder Dispenser Type Weight% 2.00 1.oo 86.80 10.00 0.20

Ingredients: C a l s o f t F-90 P i 1o t SXS-96 Sodium S e s q u i c a r b o n a t e Borax C r y s t a l s C o l o r & Perfume Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . B l e n d C a l s o f t F-90, SXS-96, and S e s q u i c a r b o n a t e 2 . Add B o r a x . 3 . Add p e r f u m e and d y e b y o v e r s p r a y i n g . F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-006-01 Powder Dispenser Type

Wei qht% 71.70 15.90 12.00 0.40

Ingredients: Sodium S u l f a t e S o d i um S e s q u i c a r b o n a t e C a l s o f t F-90 T r i t o n X-100 Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 1 . T r i t o n X-100 u s e d as a n t i - d u s t i n g a g e n t . 2. Formula has h i g h e r b u l k d e n s i t y t h a n HAN-007. F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-008-01 Powder Dispenser Type

Weight% 85.30 14.20 0.50

Ingredients: Sodium S e s q u i c a r b o n a t e C a l s o f t F-90 T r i t o n X-100 Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : T r i t o n X-100 u s e d a s a n t i - d u s t i n g a g e n t . F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-007-01 SOURCE: P i l o t C h e m i c a l C o . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

291

292

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hand Cleaner, Powder Dispenser Type __ %Wt 2.00 1-00 86.80 10.00 0.20

Ingredients: C a l s o f t F-90 P i 1o t SXS-96 S o d i um S e s q u i c a r b o n a t e Borax C r y s t a l s C o l o r & Perfume Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : 1 . B l e n d C a l s o f t F-90, SXS-96, and S e s q u i c a r b o n a t e . 2 . Add B o r a x . 3 . Add p e r f u m e and d y e b y o v e r s p r a y i n g . F o r m u l a t i o n WAN-006-01 Hand Cleaner-Powder Dispenser Type

S6Wt

Ingredients: Sodium S e s q u i c a r b o n a t e Cal s o f t F-90 T r i t o n X-100

85.30 14.20 0.50

Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : T r i t o n X-100 u s e d a s a n t i - d u s t i n g F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-007-01

agent.

Hand Cleaner-Powder Dispenser Type Ingredients: Sodium S u l f a t e Sodium S e s q u i c a r b o n a t e C a l s o f t F-90 T r i t o n X-100 Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : 1 . T r i t o n X-100 u s e d a a n t i - d u s t i n g a g e n t . 2 . F o r m u l a h a s h i g h e r b u l k d e n s i t y t h a n HAN-007. F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-008-01 SOURCE:

Pi 1o t C h e m i c a l C O . : F o r m u l a r y

71.70 15.90 12.00 0.40

Soaps and Hand Cleaners

293

Hand Cleaners Handsoap-Clear Liquid Wei wht% 30.00

Ingredients: CalBlend Clear F r a g r a n c e , Dye Preservative Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

Q.S. Q.S. 1* 00-2.00 68.50

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 81 e n d i ng P r o c e d u r e : Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n C l e a r . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , dye, and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 3,000-5,000 c p s ( N o . 4 S p i n d l e @ 10 rpm) w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f s o d i u m c h l o r i d e as needed. Typical Formulation Properties: A p p e a r a n c e : C1 e a r , V i s c o u s L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 3 , 0 0 0 - 5 , 0 0 0 c p s pH: 6 . 0 - 7 . 0 % Non V o l a t i l e s : 1 1 . 5 - 1 2 . 5 CTFA I d e n t i f ic a t i o n : Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Cocamide DEA, C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c A c i d , D y e ( s ) . F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-018-01

Heavy Duty Phase A I n g r e d i e n t s : d - L i monene C a l o x y l a t e N-9 P i 1o t SXS-40

Wei a h t % 35.00 13.00 4.00

~ Phase _ B_I n g_ redients:

Water C a l s o f t AOS-40 C a l f a x 1 OL-45 Calamide C

30.00 4.00 10.00 4.00

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l c a n b e u s e d i n s t e a d o f SXS-40. Phase A - O r g a n i c Phase: M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d . Upon SXS-40 a d d i t i o n , t h e b l e n d i s s l i g h t l y h a z y ( t h e b l e n d i s c l e a r when P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l i s u s e d ) . Phase B-Aqueous Phase: M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d . Add Phase A i n t o Phase 8 w i t h v i g o r o u s m i x i n g . A w h i t e creamy p a s t e i s f o r m e d . T h i s i s a good g r e a s e c u t t i n g hand c l e a n e r . F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-004-01

SOURCE: P i 1o t C h e m i c a l Co. : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t io n s

294

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hand Cleaner, Waterless, Liquid Ingredients:

o m

~~

White Mineral O i l D e o d o r i zed K e r o s e n e EGMS C a l i mu1 s e PRS Propylene Glycol Ethoxy L a n o l i n ( 7 5 Mole) Water

30.00 10.00 5.00

5.00 5.00 6.00 39.00

Comments About t h i s F o r m u l a : EGMS-Ethylene G l y c o l M o n o s t e a r a t e . P a r t A: W h i t e M i n e r a l O i l , K e r o s e n e , EGMS,and C a l i m u l s e PRS. Combine and h e a t t o 160F t o m e l t EGMS. P a r t 8 : P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l , E t h o x y L a n o l i n and w a t e r . Combine and h e a t t o 1 6 0 F . Combine p a r t s A & B . P a r t C: Dye and Perfume i f d e s i r e d . Cool A 8 B, b l e n d b e l o w 1 1 OF b e f o r e a d d i n g . F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-009-01 Hand Cleaner-Waterless Paste

I ng r e d Lent-s : White Mineral O i l D e o d o r i zed K e r o s e n e EGMS C a l i m u l s e PRS Propylene G1 ycol Ethoxy L a n o l i n ( 7 5 Mole) Water

%Yt 30.00 10.00 10.00 5.00 5.00 6.00 34.00

Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : P a r t A: I n g r e d i e n t s 1 - 4 . Heat and m i x t o 1 6 0 F . P a r t B : I n g r e d i e n t s 5 - 7 . Heat and m i x t o 1 6 0 F . Combine " A " and "B'! . P a r t C : P e r f u m e . Cool " A " and !tB!! , b l e n d b e l o w lOOF b e f o r e a d d i n g . Package i m m e d i a t e l y , f o r m s a p a s t e o n c o o l i n g . F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-010-01

SOURCE:

P i l o t Chemical C o . : F o r m u l a r y

Soaps and Hand Cleaners

295

Hand Cleaners Waterless Paste Wei q h t % 1.60 0.40 11 - 0 0 4.00 34.00 49.00

In s r e d ien t s : Oleic Acid T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 85% C a l o x y l a t e N-9 C a l a m i d e CWT d-Limonene Water, D . I . Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : 7 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s 1-5 and h e a t t o 80C w i t h m i x i n g . 2 . S l o w l y add w a t e r w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g t e m p e r a t u r e . 3 . Forms a g e l on c o o l i n g . F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-013-01 Waterless Paste

Weight% 10.50 6.00 0.50 40.00 1.50 41.50

Inqredients: C a l a m i d e CWT C a l o x y 1 a t e N-9 Laurami ne O x i d e d-Limonene G1 y c e r o l Water, D . I .

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : P a r t A : I n g r e d i e n t s 1 - 4 , c o m b i n e and h e a t t o 70C. P a r t B : Combine and h e a t i n g r e d i e n t s 5 and 6 t o 70C. Combine w i t h P a r t " A l l . Package b e f o r e c o o l i n g . Formul a t ion HAN-014-01 Waterless Paste Ingredients: C a l a m i d e CWT Oleic Acid T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 85% C a l o x y l a t e N-9 d - L i monene G1 y c e r i n e Water

.-

Weight% 5.00 5 100 1.50 2.50 45 IO0 1.50 39.50

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : P a r t A : I n g r e d i e n t s 1 - 5 , m i x a n d h e a t t o 70C. P a r t B : I n g r e d i e n t s 6 a n d 7 , warm t o 80C and add t o P a r t " A " . Cool and p a c k a g e , b e f o r e c o o l i n g . F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-015-01

SOURCE:

P i 1o t C h e m i c a l C o s : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t ions

296

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hand Cleaners Waterless Paste Weight% Ingredients: White Mineral O i l 30.00 D e o d o r i z e d Kerosene 10.00 EGMS ( E t h y l e n e G l y c o l M o n o s t e a r a t e ) 10.00 5.00 C a l imu1 s e PRS P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 5.00 Ethoxy L a n o l i n (75 Mole) 6.00 Water 34.00 Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : P a r t A : I n g r e d i e n t s 1 - 4 . H e a t and m i x t o 160F. P a r t B : I n g r e d i e n t s 5 - 7 . H e a t and m i x t o 160F. Combine " A " and "B" P a r t C : P e r f u m e . C o o l " A " and " B " , b l e n d b e l o w 1OOF b e f o r e adding Package i m m e d i a t e l y , f o r m s a p a s t e on c o o l i n g . F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-010-01

.

.

Waterless Paste Ingredients: Weight% Deodori zed Kerosene 42.10 C a l s u d s CD-6 13.60 White Mineral O i l 3.30 Water 40.40 K a t h o n CG 0.50 Perfume 0.10 Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : P a r t A : I n g r e d i e n t s 1 - 3 , c o m b i n e and h e a t t o 7 0 C . P a r t B : I n g r e d i e n t 4, h e a t t o 60C and add w i t h m i x i n g t o P a r t " A " P a r t C : I n g r e d i e n t s 5 and 6 . Cool A/B, b l e n d b e l o w 40C b e f o r e a d d i n g . Forms a g e l o n s t a n d i n g . F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-011-01 Waterless Paste Innredi ents : C a l a m i d e CWT Oleic Acid T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 85% Deodorized M i n e r a l Spi r it s G1 y c e r o l Water

Wei g h t % 5.00 5.00 1.50 45.00 1.50 42.00

Comments a b o u t t h i s f o r m u l a : P a r t A : M i x and h e a t i n g r e d i e n t s 1 - 4 t o 8OC. P a r t 8 : M i x and h e a t i n g r e d i e n t s 5 and 6 t o 8 O C . Combine w i t h P a r t " A " . Forms a g e l on c o o l i n g . F o r m u l a t i o n HAN-012-01 SOURCE: P i 1o t C h e m i c a l Co. : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t io n s

Soaps and Hand Cleaners

297

Hand Cleaner-Waterless Paste -_ %Wt 42.10 13.60 3.30 40.40 0.50 0.10

Ingredients: D e o d o r i zed K e r o s e n e C a l s u d s CD-6 White Mineral O i l Water K a t h o n CG Perfume

Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : P a r t A : I n g r e d i e n t s 1-3, combine and h e a t t o 70C. P a r t B : I n g r e d i e n t 4 , h e a t t o 60C and add w i t h m i x i n g t o P a r t " A " P a r t C : I n g r e d i e n t s 5 and 6 . Cool A/B, b l e n d b e l o w 4 0 C b e f o r e a d d i n g . Forms a g e l on s t a n d i n g . F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-011-01 Hand Cleaner-Waterless, Paste Ingredients; C a l a m i d e CWT Oleic Acid T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 85% Deodorized M i n e r a l Spi r i t s G1 y c e r o l Water

"/t 5.00 5.00 1 .50 45.00 1 .50 42.00

Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : P a r t A: M i x and h e a t i n g r e d i e n t s 1 - 4 t o 80C. P a r t B : M i x and h e a t i n g r e d i e n t s 5 and 6 t o 80C. Combine w i t h P a r t " A " . Forms a g e l on c o o l i n g . Formul a t i on #HAN-012-01 Hand Cleaner-Waterless, Paste

%K!.

Jngr_edi e n t s : Oleic Acid T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 85% Cal o x y 1 a t e N-9 C a l a m i d e CWT d - L i monene Water, D . I .

1 .60 0.40 11 .oo

4.00 34.00 49.00

Comments A b o u t t h i s F o r m u l a : 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s 1-5 and h e a t t o 80C w i t h m i x i n g . 2 . Slow1 y add w a t e r w h i 1 e mai n t a i n i n g t e m p e r a t u r e . 3 . Forms a g e l on c o o l i n g . F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-013-01 SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical Co : Formul a r y I

298

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hand Cleaner-Waterless, Paste Ingredi ents; C a l a m i d e CWT Caloxylate N-9 Lauramine Oxide d-Limonene Glycerol Water, D . I ,

%Wt 10.50 6.00 0.50 40.00 1.50 41.50

Comments About t h i s Formula: Part A: Combine and heat i n g r e d i e n t s 1-4 to 7OC. Part B: Combine and heat i n g r e d i e n t s 5&6 to 7OC. Combine w i t h Part "A". Package before cooling. F o r m u l a t i o n #HAIM-01 4-01 Hand Cleaner-Waterless, Paste Ingredi ents: CaI a m i d e CWT Olei c Aci d T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 85% Caloxylate N-9 d-Limonene Glyceri ne Water

%Wt 5.00 5.00 1.50 2.50 45.00 1.50 39.50

Comments About this Formula: Part A: I n g r e d i e n t s 1-5, mix and heat to 7OC. Part B: Ingredients 6&7, warm to 8OC and add to Part "A". Cool and package. F o r m u l a t i o n #HAN-015-01 Hand Cleaner-Liquid, Soap Ingredients: Calfoam SLS-30 C a l t a i n e C-35 Calamide C EGMS Propylene Glycol

Wt% 28.00 5.00 3.00 1.00 1.00

PEG 46M

0.50

Kathon CG Ci t r i e Aci d

0.05 0.20

Comments About t h i s Formula: EGMS-Ethy1ene Glycol Monostearate 1. Ingredients 1-6 combined and heated to 7OC to m e l t EGMS. 2. Kathon CG added after cooling before adjusting pH. 3. Sodium C h l o r i d e (1%) can be added to adjust the viscosity (i ncrease). F o r m u l a t i o n #HAIM-01 6-01 SOURCE: P i l o t Chemical Co.: Formulary

Soaps and Hand Cleaners

299

Hot Pour Syndet Bar T h i s m i l d c l e a n s i n g b a r p r o v i d e s r i c h l a t h e r and s o f t s k i n a s a r e s u l t o f J o r d a p o n C I - 6 0 . The f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o b e manufactured u s i n g h o t - f i l l equipment; no soapmaking l i n e s a r e needed. Ingredient : S o d i um C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d (Jordapon GI-60) S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (GO-1895) PEG-150 (Carbowax E-8000) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% Demi n e r a l ized W a t e r

Wt% 80.0 10.0 3.0 5.0 2.0

pH ( 5 % s o l u t i o n ) : 6 . 3 Procedure: W i t h a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e v e s s e l , h e a t t o 70C. B e g i n p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n when t h e b a t c h becomes f l u i d . M a i n t a i n s l o w m i x i n g u n t i l a l l s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d and t h e b a t c h becomes a u n i f o r m , n o n v i s c o u s , opaque f l u i d . F i l l m o l d s , a l l o w t o s o l i d i f y . F o r m u l a M102 Syndet Bar Modi f i cation of an example i n US Patent #4,707,288

Ingredient : Sodi um C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d (Jordapon CI-75) T a l l o w / C o c o Soap Water NaCl T i 02 Fragrance BHT N a 3 H EDTA F o r m u l a M103

SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

76.5 16.7 4.1 0.3 1.o 1.o 0.2 0.2

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

300

Liquid Soap A mild, high-foaming formulation which i s simple, y e t o f f e r s l u b r i c i o u s l a t h e r and s o f t s k i n a f t e r f e e l t h a n k s t o t h e J o r d a p o n C I - U P . The Mapeg EGMS p r o v i d e s a b r i g h t p e a r l e s c e n c e t o t h e system. I t can be o m i t t e d i f a c l e a r p r o d u c t i s d e s i r e d . Part: A

I n g r e d i e n t ( T r a d e Name): Dei o n i zed Water S o d i um C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( J o r d a p o n CI-UP) Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t e p a n o l AM) G l y c o l S t e a r a t e (Mapeg EGMS) Na4 EDTA M e t h y l Paraben

74.4 3.0 13.0 0.5 0.1 0.2

B

Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ( M a f o CAB) Cocamide DEA (Mazamide JT-128)

6.0 2.5

C

Fragrance C i t r i c Acid

0.2 0.1

pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 2500-3500 c p s ( w i t h 0 . 6 - 0 . 9 % NaC1) A p p e a r a n c e : Creamy , P e a r l e s c e n t L i q u i d Procedure: M i x and h e a t p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 65C ( 1 5 0 F ) . When u n i f o r m , add t h e M a f o CAB and t h e Mazamide J T - 1 2 8 . Cool t h e b a t c h t o 40C ( 1 5 0 F ) , add f r a g r a n c e and a d j u s t pH. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .

SOURCE:

PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc.:

F o r m u l a t i o n N-201

Hand Cleaning Gel

Wt% Z u s o l a t 1004 Oleic acid C a u s t i c soda ( 1 5 % ) S h e l l s o l D 40 9 , s . t o make 100%: w a t e r ,

SOURCE:

25.0 4.0 approx. 3.0 18.0 perfume,

preservative

Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & C o . :

Formulation

B 25/216

Soaps and Hand Cleaners

301

Lotion Hand Cleaner (With Abrasive) 61 - 5 5 25.00 0.15 4.00

D i s t i 1 1ed Water

B i o t e r g e AS-40 Methylparaben Ritasynt I P Pationic I S L R i t a p e g 150 DS W a l n u t She1 1s ( C o a r s e ) K a t h o n CG TEA (50% S o l u t i o n ) Perfume

3.00

1 .oo 5.00 0.10 0.15 0.05

pH: 6 . 0 V i s c o s i t y : 3400 c p s Foami n g R e s u l t s : Foam n20 260 85 0 . 0 Minute 260 95 1 .O Minute 100 260 3 . 0 Minute Stabi 1i t i e s : 4F: W a l n u t s d r o p t o b o t t o m a f t e r 1 c y c l e 4 0 F : W a l n u t s d r o p t o b o t t o m a f t e r 4 weeks 70F: W a l n u t s d r o p t o b o t t o m o v e r n i g h t 110F: S e p a r a t i o n o v e r n i g h t - a 1 1 w a l n u t s a t b o t t o m C e n t i f u g e R e s u l t s : S e p a r a t e s a f t e r 10 s e c o n d s @ 1600 rpm D e s c r i p t i o n : 1% R i t a p e g 150 DS W i t h o u t R i t a v e n a 5

SOURCE:

R.1,T.A. Corp.: Ritavena 5:

F o r m u l a t i o n 114-24

Mild Hand Cleanser

M a c k a n a t e LO-Speci a1 Mackami de PKM M a c k e r n i um 007 M a c k s t a t DM Water, Fragrance g s t o

___ Wt% 83.0 4.0 0.8 qs 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add Mackamide PKM t o M a c k a n a t e L O - S p e c i a l and h e a t t o 7 0 degrees C . 2 . B l e n d u n t i l homogeneous. 3 . D i s s o l v e M a c k e r n i u m 0 0 7 i n w a t e r and add t o p r o d u c t . 4 . B1 end u n t i 1 c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous. 5 . Cool t o 50 d e g r e e s C . w i t h m i l d a g i t a t i o n . 6 . Add M a c k s t a t DM and f r a g r a n c e and c o o l w i t h c o n t i n u o u s a g i t a t io n .

SOURCE:

M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : P e r s o n a l C a r e F o r m u l a r y : F o r m u l a

302

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Mild Pearlized Hand Cleanser

% Bv W e i q h t 61.4 0.3 20.8 12.5 1. o 1.5 2.5

Water Sodi urn C h l o r i d e M o n a t e r i c 951A Monamate LNT-40 Monamid 1089 Cerasynt I P Phosphol ip i d PTC

Procedure: Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d and warm w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n t o 60C. M a i n t a i n 60C u n t i l t h e C e r a s y n t I P has d i s s o l v e d . Cool - a d j u s t pH w i t h p h o s p h o r i c a c i d . A t pH 6 . 5 , v i s c o s i t y i s a b o u t 2000 c p s . F o r m u l a F-128 Pearled Gel Facial Cleanser Water Sodium L a u r e t h ( 1 ) S u l f a t e (25% A c t i v e ) Monamate CPA-40 Monamid 1089 Cerasynt I P Phosphol ip i d PTC

% B y Weiaht 52.5 28.0 12.5 3.0 1.5 2.5

Procedure: Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d and h e a t w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n t o 70C w h i l e t h e C e r a s y n t I P d i s s o l v e s . Cool and a d j u s t pH l e v e l d e s i r e d . A t pH 5 t o 6 t h e p r o d u c t i s a p e a r l e d , b a r e l y f l o w a b l e g e l w h i c h i s s u i t a b l e f o r p a c k i n g i n t u b e s . Hand l a t h e r i s c o p i o u s , w i t h a s o f t - c r e a m y f e e l . When d r y , t h e s k i n has a s i 1k y f e e l . Formula F-156 Facial Cleanser T h i s h i g h foaming f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s t h e m i l d c l e a n s i n g and a n t i - i r r i t a t i o n p r o p e r t i e s o f P h o s p h o l i p i d PTC. I t s subs t a n t i v i t y t o t h e s k i n and e f f e c t i v e c o n d i t i o n i n g a c t i v i t y w i l l help t o minimize or a l l e v i a t e d r y s k i n conditions w h i l e leaving a s i 1 k y t a l c - 1 ik e a f t e r f e e l . Phosphol ip i d PTC M o n a t e r i c CLV Sodium L a u r e t h ( 1 ) S u l f a t e (26%) Water

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . :

% BY W e i g h t 2.5 12.5 28.0 57.0

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Soaps and Hand Cleaners

303

Opaque Liquid Soap N a t r o s o l 250HHR h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e e f f e c t i v e l y b o o s t s t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h i s l o w e r a c t i v e s opaque shampoo b a s e . A t a s u r f a c t a n t s o l i d s l e v e l o f o n l y 7.3%, t h e a d d i t i o n o f N a t r o s o l y i e l d s a r i c h l i q u i d soap w i t h a v i s c o s i t y o f 4,000 c p s (MPas) ( B r o o k f i e l d L V T a t 30 rpm, 2 5 C ) . L w r e L i L e nt_ s-:.. Water Sodium C14-Cl6 o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e , 40% a c t i v e Sodi um 1 a u r o y l s a r c o s i n a t e , 30% a c t i v e Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne, 35% a c t i v e Glycol stearate N a t r o s o l 250HHR CS h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e Propylene g l y c o l G1 y c e r i n T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA Stearalkonium c h l o r i d e Methyl paraben

W-e i gh t YC 75 88 7.50 6.66 6.66 1 .oo 0.80 0.50 0.50 0.30 0.10 0.10 I

Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e t h e N a t r o s o l i n w a t e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M i x u n t i l f u l l y d i s s o l v e d . M o d e r a t e h e a t i n g o r an i n c r e a s e i n s o l u t i o n pH t o s l i g h t l y a l k a l i n e w i l l a c c e l e r a t e h y d r a t i o n . 2 . D i s p e r s e t h e m e t h y l p a r a b e n i n t h e p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l . Add t o t h e Natrosol s o l u t i o n . Mix u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . 3 . While s l o w l y s t i r r i n g t h e w a t e r - s o l u b l e polymer s o l u t i o n , add t h e s t e a r a l k o n i u m c h l o r i d e , o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e , and g l y c o l s t e a r a t e . H e a t t h e m i x t u r e t o 80C u n t i l a l l o f t h e g l y c o l s t e a r a t e has m e l t e d and t h e s o l u t i o n has t u r n e d opaque. 4 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s w h i l e c o o l i n g t h e s o l u t i o n s l o w l y t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . 5 . Add c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e . F o r m u l a N09-01W Transparent Toilet Soap N a t r o s o l 250HR g i v e s v i s c o s i t y and p s e u d o p l a s t i c f l o w t o t h i s t r a n s o a r e n t hand s o a p . L n g r e d i ents; Water Sod1 um C14-Cl6 o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e , 40% a c t i v e Sodi um 1 a u r o y l s a r c o s i n a t e , 30% a c t i v e Cocamide MEA N a t r o s o l 250HR cs D i s o d l urn EDTA Methyl paraben

Wei g h t % 65.70 20.00 10.00 3.00 1.oo 0.20 0.10

Formul a N09-02W

SOURCE: Aqua1 on Di v i s i o n : N a t r o s o l 2 5 0 H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e

304

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Soap Bar for Hard Water (Formula 91-1106) T h i s soap b a r i n c o r p o r a t e s a m i l d a m p h o t e r i c s u r f a c t a n t t o improve foaming i n hard water s i t u a t i o n s . A d d i t i o n a l l y , t h e a m p h o t e r i c r e d u c e s t h e h a r s h n e s s o f t h e soap s y s t e m i n any w a s h i n g e n v i r o n m e n t . T h i s b a r i s l e s s d r y i n g t h a n a p u r e soap based p r o d u c t . % by-Weight Step A : 8 0 / 2 0 B r a d p r i d e Soap Base ( O r i g i n a l B r a d f o r d Soap Works) Q.S. B e n t o n e EW ( R h e o x ) 10.0

Step 8: Water M i r a n o l C2M-SF 70%

5.0

S t e p C: Fragrance, Dye(s), P r e s e r v a t i v e

Q.S

Blending Procedure: Step A : B l e n d t h e d r y components ( B r a d p r i d e Soap Base, a powder m i x e r .

7.5

B e n t o n e EW) i n

Step B: D i s s o l v e t h e M i r a n o l C2M-SF 70% and any o t h e r w a t e r s o l u b l e components i n t h e w a t e r w i t h h e a t i n g . S l o w l y and e v e n l y add t h e aqueous s o l u t i o n t o S t e p A t o a v o i d w e t s p o t s . Step C : F i n a l l y , add t h e f r a g r a n c e t o S t e p s A and B . When u n i f o r m l y m i x e d , m i l l a n d / o r r e f i n e u n t i l t h e b a t c h i s homogeneous. E x t r u d e and stamp i n t o b a r s . Typical Formulation Properties: A p p e a r a n c e : Opaque Bar pH (5% d i s p e r s i o n ) : 1 0 . 0 - 1 0 . 5 CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Sodi um T a l l o w a t e , Sodi um C o c o a t e a n d / o r S o d i um Palm K e r n a l a t e , H e c t o r i t e , Water, D i s o d i u m C oc a mp hod i p ro pi onat e. SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : F o r m u l a t i o n f o r P e r s o n a l Care

Soaps and Hand Cleaners

305

Waterless Hand Cleaner % by Weight

__ Formu 1 a :

A: M i n e r a l C o l l o i d BP (ECC A m e r i c a ) Water B: P o t a s s i um H y d r o x i de Water C: M i c r o w h i t e 100 (ECC A m e r i c a ) D: Oleic Acid Deodorized Kerosene S o l u l a n 98 Ye1 low P r o t o p e t 2A P e t r o l a t u m (Wi t c o ) P r e s e r v a t iv e s

2.0 36.0 1.o 5.0

20.0 6.0 25.0 3.0 2.0

q.s.

Procedure: S l o w l y add t h e M i n e r a l C o l l o i d BP t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t max. s h e a r . D i s s o l v e p o t a s s i u m h y d r o x i d e i n w a t e r . Add 8 t o A w i t h medium s h e a r . Add M i c r o w h i t e 100 t o A/B and m i x u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Heat A/B/C t o 60C. Combine D and h e a t t o 65C. Add D t o A / B / C w i t h s l o w m i x i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o 30C. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e s and m i x u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . M i n e r a l C o l l o i d , a r e f i n e d s m e c t i t e c l a y , e f f e c t i v e l y t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l i z e s t h e emu1 s i on and suspends t h e a b r a s i v e . Waterless Hand Cleaner with Abrasive Formui a : A: Veegum P r o Water 8: P o t a s s i um H y d r o x i de Water C: Oleic Acid Carnation Mineral 0; 1 (Witco) Cll-12 Isoparaffin D: Polyethylene P r e s e r v a t iv e

~~~

2 .o 39.4 0.9 2.7 9.0 9.0 27.0 q.s.

Procedure: S l o w l y add Veegum P r o t o t h e w a t e r , a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r . M i x u n t i l smooth. Add B w i t h c a r e f u l m i x i n g and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m , Add C t o A/B and m i x u n t i l e m u l s i o n i s smooth and u n i f o r m . Add D and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . T h i s i s a medium v i scosi t y cream.

SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Section XI Sun Care Products

306

Sun Care Products

307

After Sun Cream with Aloe Vera and Evening Primrose Ingredients: Wei qht% I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e C i t r a t e ) 7.00 I m w i t o r 375 ( G l y c e r y l C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e / L i no1 e a t e / 01 e a t e ) 5.00 I m w i t o r 928 (G1 y c e r y l C o c o a t e ) 3.00 M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 12.00 S o f t i s a n 378 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c / S t e a r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) 5.00 A l o e V e r a L i p 0 Quinone E x t r a c t ( A l o e B a r b a d e n s i s 2.00 Extract) Eveni ng P ri m ro se 2.00 8 ) C a r b o p o l Gel 1% 15.00 A1 l a n t o i n 0.20 q.s. Preservative 3.00 d-Panthenol up t o 100.00 Water C) F r a g r a n c e 9 . S . Vitamin E 0.20 P r e p a r a t ion : C a r b o p o l Gel : C a r b o p o l 980 ( C a r b o m e r ) 1 .O% KOH 10% 4.0% Water up t o 100.0% A f t e r Sun Cream: ( A ) i s h e a t e d up t o c a . 75 d e g r e e s C . (6) i s s t i r r e d and b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . (C) i s added a t a b o u t 35 d e g r e e s C . F o r m u l a t i o n 4.1D

A)

W/O Sun Protection Lotion Ingredients: Weight% A) S o f t i s a n Gel ( B i s - D i g l y c e r y l P o l y a c r y l a d i p a t e - 1 ( a n d ) P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e (and) Stearalkonium H e c t o r i t e (and) Propylene Carbonate) 5.00 D y n a c e r i n 660 ( 0 1 e y l E r u c a t e ) 18.00 5 .OO S o f t i san 378 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c / S t e a r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) A b i l WE 09 ( P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) C e t y l Dimethicone Copolyol (and) Hexyl Laurate) 5.00 3.00 E u s o l e x 6300 ( 4 - M e t h y l b e n z y l i d e n e Camphor) 6) H o m b i t e c L5 ( T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ) 3.00 2.00 Magnesium S u l f a t e q.s. P r e s e r v a t iv e up t o 1 0 0 . 0 0 Water Preparation: ( A ) i s warmed up t o c a . 75 d e g r e e s C . and s t i r r e d . ( B ) i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) w i t h an h o m o g e n i z e r . (C) i s added a t a b o u t 35 d e g r e e s C . Formulation 4.28

SOURCE:

Huls

America I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

308

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

After Sun Lotion The c o m b i n a t i o n o f E l h i b i n and L a c t o m i d e i n t h i s deep a c t i n g l o t i o n r e g e n e r a t e s t h e s k i n t h r o u g h t h e a n t i e l a s t a s e e f f e c t and l i p i d b a r r i e r r e c o n s t r u c t i o n . The f o r m u l a i s i d e a l f o r a f t e r sun a p p l ic a t i o n s .

Item

Wei n h t % Ingredients 5.00 1 A) Tween 60 3.00 2 A r l a c e l 60 2.00 3 A r l a c e l 165 2.50 4 C e t y l A1 coho1 8.00 5 Isopropyl Myristate 66.40 6 6 ) D e i o n i z e d Water 0.50 7 Phenoni p 0.30 8 I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a 2.00 9 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 5.00 10 E lh ib i n 5.00 11 L a c t o m i de 0.30 12 C) F r a g r a n c e : T i m b u k t u 0/186901 Procedure: H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y p h a s e A ) t o 70C. H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r p h a s e B ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add p h a s e 8 ) t o p h a s e A ) , c o o l t o 50C, homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then add p h a s e C ) and s t i r c o l d . A p p l i c a t i o n No. C 0 0 8 . 1 / 0 1 . 9 6 Light After Sun Fluid Disbutin-BT, i n t h i s q u i c k break emulsion, p o s i t i v e l y i n f l u e n c e s t h e r e g e n e r a t i v e c a p a c i t y o f t h e s k i n by i n s t a n t d i s m u t a t i o n o f t h e oxygen f r e e r a d i c a l s p r e v e n t i n g t i s s u e damage.

Itern

Wei q h t % Incrredie n t s : 0.25 1 A ) Pemulen TR-1 2 C e t i o l 868 8.00 3 Paraffin O i l 10.00 4 Vitamin E Acetate 0.50 5 B) D e i o n i z e d W a t e r 78.15 6 Glycerin 2.00 7 Phenoni p 0.30 8 I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a 0.20 9 C) Sodium H y d r o x i d e 18% S o l u t i o n q s . pH 6 . 0 0.30 10 D) D i smut i n-BT F r a g r a n c e : C h i a r a 0/238927 0.30 11 Procedure: M i x p h a s e A ) and homogenize f o r 2 m i n u t e s . Under s t i r r i n g add p h a s e 6 ) t o p h a s e A) and h o m o g e n i z e . N e u t r a l i z e w i t h p h a s e C and t h e n add i t e m s 10 + 1 1 , s t i r . A p p l ic a t i on N o . A 033.A/01 - 9 6

SOURCE:

Pentapharm L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Sun Care Products

309

After Sun Lotion A smooth l o t i o n t h a t adds m o i s t u r e t o t h e s k i n a f t e r s u n n i n g . Innredients: %w/w 1. Stearic Acid 2.00 2 . C12-15 A l k y l B e n z o a t e 6.50 3 . Cocoa B u t t e r 1 .oo 4 . Wheat Germ O i 1 1 .oo 5. Tocopheryl Acetate 0,50 6 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 2.00 7 . R i t o x 52 (PEG-40 S t e a r a t e ) 1 .oo 8 . D i s t i 11 e d / D e i o n i zed Water 68.30 9 . R i t a l o e 1X ( A l o e V e r a G e l ) 10.00 3.00 1 0 . G1 y c e r in e 1.00 11 T r i e t h a n o l ami n e ( 9 9 % ) 0.50 1 2 . A1 1a n t o i n 1 3 . A c r i t a m e r 941 ( C a r b o m e r ) 0.20 1 4 . A c r y l a t e s / O c t y l a c r y l ami de Copolymer 1 .oo 15.Germaben I I E 1-00 16. Fragrance q.s. 1 7 , D e f e n s i n e (Wheat Germ E x t r a c t ) 1 .oo Compoundi n g P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 - 7 and h e a t t o 80C. Combine i t e m s 8 - 1 2 . S l o w l y add i t e m 1 3 w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . H e a t t o 80C. S l o w l y s i f t i n i t e m 14 and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add o i l t o w a t e r . C o o l t o 40C w h i l e m i x i n g . Add i t e m s 1 5 - 1 7 . R e f . No. 122-6A I

Sunscreen Cream An e l e g a n t , smooth c r e a m . The s u n s c r e e n h a s an e s t i m a t e d SPF o f a b o u t 15 w i t h a l i g h t f e e l and g r e a s e l e s s r u b i n . The f o r m u l a i s s t a b i 1 i zed w i t h A c r i t a m e r . Ingredients: %w/w 1 . A c r i t a m e r 934 ( C a r b o m e r ) 0.40 2 . D i s t i 11 e d / D e i o n i zed W a t e r 64.95 3. Propylene Glycol 3,OO 4 . Benzophenone-3 5.00 5 . O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 7.50 6 . C12-15 A1 k y l B e n z o n a t e 7.50 7 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 4.00 8. Stearic Acid (T.P.) 2.00 9. Ritabate-80 (Polysorbate-80) 0.50 1 0 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0.50 1 1 . TE A (99%) 0.65 1 2 . R o v i s o m e C (ROVI B l e n d ) 4.00 q.s. 1 3 . G1 y d a n t 14.Perfume 9,s. Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 1 i n t o i t e m 2 and h e a t t o 75-80C. Add i t e m 3 . M i x i t e m s 4-10 and h e a t t o 75-80C. Combine p h a s e s w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH w i t h i t e m 1 1 . Cool t o 35-40C and add i t e m s 1 1 - 1 4 . R e f . N o . 122-124

SOURCE:

R.I.T.A,

Corp.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

3IO

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

After Sun Milk R e c i pe : A H o s t a p h a t KL 340 N H o s t a c e r i n DGS M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate C e t i o l SN Jojoba o i l Walnut o i 1 0-Pant h e n o l B - C a r o t in Antioxidant B C a r b o p o l 980 C Allantoin A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . C i t r i c a c i d (10%) G1 y c e r in C a u s t i c soda s o l u t i o n (10%) Water Preservative D C o l l a g e n KD Ethanol Fragrance Procedure: 1 M e l t A a t c a . 70C, t h e n add B. 2 Heat C t o c a . 70C. 3 S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i l c o o l . 4 Add c a . 35C add t h e components o f D t o 3 . 5 Homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n . Formula A VI/3016

W B 1.50 4.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 1 .oo q.s. 9,s. 0.40 0.20 0.10 0.25 3.00 1.60 68.15 q.s. 3.00 1.50 0.30

W/O-Sun Screen Milk Recipe: A H o s t a c e r i n WO 2.00 A r l a c e l 989 2.00 Mineral o i l , low v i s c o s i t y 10.00 Isopropyl palmitate 5.00 Eutanol G 5.00 N e o - H e l i o p a n E 1000 4.00 1.oo Neo-He1 iopan 66 B Allantoin 0.20 0.10 Aquamoll in BC p d r h c . C i t r i c a c i d (10%) 0.25 2.00 Sodium c h l o r i d e Water 68.15 Preservative q.s C Fragrance 0 30 Procedure: 1 M e l t A a t c a . BOC. 2 S t i r s o l u t i o n B i n t o 1 a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and s t i r u n t i l cool. 3 A t c a . 35C add C t o 2 . Formula A VI/7300 SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e R e c i p e s f o r t h e C o s m e t i c I n d u s t r y

. .

I

Sun Care Products

311

Insect Repellent Sunscreen T h i s l o t i o n c o n t a i n s b o t h U n i r e p U-18 w h i c h i s a h i g h l y e f f e c t i v e r e p e l l e n t a g a i n s t a v a r i e t y o f i n s e c t s , and m u l t i p l e s u n s c r e e n i n g r e d i e n t s w h i c h p r o v i d e an SPF o f 2 0 + . Sequence: 1 1 1 2 3 3 3 3

3 3

3 3 4 4 5 5

Raw M a t e r i a1 : Dei o n i z e d W a t e r Methylparaben Hampene Na3T C a r b o p o l 934 ( 2 % a q . d i s p . ) U n i r e p U-18 Uvatone 2-6 E s c a l o l 557 N e o h e l iopan BE3 L i p o v o l MOS-70* L i pomul s e 1 6 5 Lipowax P Propylparaben Dei o n i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% Dei o n i zed W a t e r U n i c i d e U-13

Percent 51 . O O 0.25 0.05 12.25 12.75 7.75 7.25 2.50 1.45 1.45 1.45 0.10 0.50 0.25 0.75 0.25

* P a t e n t #4,659,573 Procedure: 1 . H e a t Sequence # 1 t o 80C w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medi um s p e e d . 2 . H e a t Sequence #2 t o 65C and add t o Sequence #1 w i t h o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medium speed ( h o l d i n g t e m p e r a t u r e a t 8 0 C ) . 3 . I n a n o t h e r v e s s e l m i x and h e a t Sequence # 3 t o 8OC o r u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y m e l t e d a n d add t o b a t c h o n o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medi um s p e e d . 4 . P r e m i x Sequence # 4 a n d add t o b a t c h s w i t c h i n g t o sweep b l a d e a t l o w s p e e d . Lower t e m p e r a t u r e t o 35C. 5 . A t 35C p r e m i x Sequence #5 and t o b a t c h . C o o l t o 25C.

SOURCE:

L i p 0 Chemicals I n c . :

F o r m u l a N o , 884

312

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Light After Sun Fluid Disbutin-BT, i n t h i s quick break emulsion, p o s i t i v e l y i n f l u e n c e s t h e c a p a c i t y o f r e g e n e r a t i o n o f t h e s k i n by i n s t a n t d i s m u t a t i o n o f t h e o x y g e n f r e e r a d i c a l s and t h e r e f o r e p r e v e n t i n g t i s s u e damage.

%w/w Innredients: 0.25 A ) Pemulen TR1 C e t i o l 868 8.00 Paraffin O i l 10 .oo V i tami n-E-Acetate 0.50 B) W a t e r demi n e r a l i z e d 78.15 Glycerin 2.00 Phenoni p 0.30 Imi d a z o l id i n y l u r e a 0.20 C ) Sodium H y d r o x i d e (18% s o l u t i o n i n d e m i n . q s . pH=6 water) D ) D i s b u t in-BT 0.30 10 11 F r a g r a n c e / C h i a r a 0/238927 0.30 Procedure: M i x p h a s e A ) and homogenize f o r 2 m i n u t e s . Under s t i r r i n g add phase B ) t o p h a s e A) and h o m o g e n i z e . N e u t r a l i z e w i t h p h a s e C) a n d t h e n add i t e m s 10 + 1 1 , s t i r . A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 0 3 3 . A / 0 1 . 9 6

Item: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

After Sun Lotion The c o m b i n a t i o n o f E l h i b i n and L a c t o m i d e i n t h i s deep a c t i n g l o t i o n provides s k i n regeneration through the a n t i elastase e f f e c t and l i p i d b a r r i e r r e c o n s t r u c t i o n . T h i s makes t h i s f o r m u l a i d e a l f o r a f t e r sun a p p l i c a t i o n .

rn

Item: Ingredients: 5.00 A ) Tween 60 1 3.00 2 A r l a c e l 60 2.00 3 A r l a c e l 165 2.50 4 C e t y l a1 coho1 8.00 5 Isopropyl myri s t a t e 66.40 6 B ) W a t e r demi n e r a l iz e d 0.30 7 Imidazol i d i nyl urea 0.50 8 Phenoni p 2.00 9 Propylene g l y c o l 5.00 Elh ibin 10 5.00 11 L a c t o m i de 0.30 C ) F ra g r a n c e / T i m bu k tu 0/186901 12 Procedure: H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y p h a s e A ) t o 70C. H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r p h a s e B ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add p h a s e 8 ) t o p h a s e A ) , c o o l t o 50C, homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then a d d p h a s e C) and s t i r c o l d . A p p l i c a t i o n No. C 0 0 8 . 1 / 0 1 . 9 6 SOURCE: P e n t a p h a r m L t d . : C o s m e t i c A p p l i c a t i o n s

Sun Care Products

313

Oil Free Skin Bronzer Ingredients; Weight% Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 M e t h y l g l u c o s e D i s t e a r a t e (Tego C a r e 450) 3.00 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g i n M) 2.00 C e t y l A l c o h o l (Tego A l k a n o l 16 ) 1.50 Polydecene 4.00 Cetearyl Octanoate (Tegosoft L i q u i d ) 4.00 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( T e g o s o f t CT) 3.50 Phase B: G1 y c e r i n B u t y l ene G 1 y c o l Water Preservatives

1.50 2.00 76.50 Q.S.

Phase C: 0.70 1 .30

T i t a n i um D i o x i d e

I r o n Oxides Phase D : Fragrance

Q.S.

Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o g e t h e r . Heat t o 65C and mix. 2 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o g e t h e r . Heat t o 65C. 3 . Add Phase A t o 8 . Homogenize. 4 . Add p i g m e n t s . C o n t i n u e t o h o m o g e n i z e . When t h e p i g m e n t s a r e f u l l y dispersed, begin cooling. 5 . Cool t o 35-45C w i t h sweep a g i t a t i o n . 6 . Add F r a g r a n c e . Sweep m i x . 7 . Dispense.

SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemi c a l C o r p : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t i on I

314

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W-Sun Blocker

Inwe _______ d ients: A . H o s t a c e r i n DGL H o s t a c e r i n DGS Mineral o i l , low v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate E u s o l e x 6300 D-Panthenol

by Weight 1.00 4.00 10.00 5.00 5.00 0.50

B.

PNC 400

1.30

C.

E u s o l e x 232

5.00

D.

T r i s Amino Water Preservative

E.

Fragrance

2.21 65.69 q.s 0.30

Procedure: 1 . M e l t A a t c a . 70C, t h e n add B . 2 . D i s s o l v e C i n D a t c a . 70C. 3 . S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i 1 c o o l . 4 . A t c a . 35C add E t o 3 . 5 . Homogeni ze t h e emu1 s i o n . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0377E s u g g e s t e d b y H o e c h s t AG ( A V I / 7 2 0 4 ) Aculyn 33 Sun Screen Lotion Inpredients:

A.

Montan OV 68 L a n o l 37T Dow C o r n i n g 200/350 E u s o l e x 6300 Solagum L

6 . Water E u s o l e x 232TS A c u l y n 33 T r i s Amino C r y s t a l s C.

P r e s e r v a t ive Perfume

___ % by W e i g h t 5.00

15.00 5.00 3.00 0.50 63.00 3.00 3.00 2.00

q.s. q.s.

Physical Characteristics: A p p e a r a n c e : B r i l l i a n t cream pH: 7 V i s c o s i t y (RVT, # 3 / 2 0 ) : 1 5 , 0 0 0 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0386 s u g g e s t e d b y Rohm & Haas Co. SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. ; P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

(PF-037)

Sun Care Products

315

O/W-Sun Screen Milk

Recipe: H o s t a c e r i n DGL H o s t a c e r in DGS M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y Avocado o i l N e o - H e l i o p a n E 1000 Neo-He1 iopan BB Antioxidant B PNC 400 C A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . C i t r i c a c i d (10%) Water P r e s e r v a t i ve D Fragrance

A

Wt% 1.00 4.00 6.00 1 .oo 9.00 1 .oo q.s. 0.30 0.10 0.25 77 05 q.s. 0.30 I

Procedure: 1 M e l t A a t c a . 70C, t h e n add B . 2 H e a t C t o c a . 70C. 3 S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i l c o o l . 4 A t c a . 35C add D t o 3 . 5 Homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n . Formula A VI/7200

O/W-Sun Blocker R e c i pe : A H o s t a c e r i n DGL H o s t a c e r i n DGS Mineral o i 1, low v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate E u s o l e x 6300 D-Panthenol 6 PNC 400 C E u s o l e x 232 D T r i s ( h y d r o x y m e t h y 1 )-ami nomethane Water P r e s e r v a t iv e E Fragrance Procedure: 1 M e l t A a t c a . 70C, t h e n add B . 2 D i s s o l v e C i n D a t c a . 70C. 3 S t i r 2 i n t o 1 and s t i r u n t i l c o o l . 4 A t c a . 35C add E t o 3 . 5 Homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n Formula A VI/7204

SOURCE:

Henkel : Guide Recipes f o r t h e Cosmetic I n d u s t r y

Wt%

1 .oo 4.00 10.00 5.00 5.00 0 50 1.30 5.00 2.21 65.69 q.s. 0.30 I

316

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W Sun Screen with Organic and Inorganic Screens Ingredients: I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e C i t r a t e ) I m w i t o r 375 ( G l y c e r y l Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/ Oleate) M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) S o f t i s a n 649 ( B i s - D i g l y c e r y l P o l y a c y l a d i p a t e - 2 ) C e t y l a1 coho1 E u s o l e x 6300 ( 4 - M e t h y l b e n z y l i d e n e Camphor) Hombi t e c L 5 ( T i t a n d i o x i d e )

A.

B.

L u v i s k o l K 30 ( P V P ) K e l t r o l F (Xanthan) P r e s e r v a t iv e W a t e r , ad

C.

Perfume

Weight% 5.00

3.00 16.00 5.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 0.50 0.50 9,s. 100.00 0.30

SPF c a . 1 0 , w a t e r r e s i s t a n t P r e p a r a t i on : A i s h e a t e d t o 75-8OC. B i s m i x e d and h e a t e d up t B i s emulsified i n t o A. A t 30C C i s a d d e d .

t h e same t e m p e r a t u

O/W Sun Protection Lotion (SPF 15)

Ingredients: I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e C i t r a t e ) I m w i t o r 377 ( G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e / C i t r a t e / L a c t a t e ) M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) S o f t i san 649 ( B i s - D i g l y c e r y l P o l y a c y l a d i p a t e - 2 ) E u s o l e x 6300 ( 4 - M e t h y l b e n z y l i d e n e Camphor) H o m b i t e c L5 ( T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e )

A)

B) K e l t r o l F ( X a n t h a n Gum) Preservative Water

Weight% 3.00 5.00 16.00 5.00 3.00 3.00

0.50 q.s. Up To 1 0 0 . 0 0

C) F r a g r a n c e Preparation: ( A ) i s h e a t e d up t o c a . 75 d e g r e e s C . ( B ) i s s t i r r e d and b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . ( C ) i s added a t a b o u t 35 d e g r e e s C . F o r m u l a t i o n 4.2C

SOURCE: Huls A m e r i c a I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

q.s.

Sun Care Products

31 7

Pre-Sun Moisture Accelerator A g l o s s y o i 1 -in - w a t e r emu1 s i o n c o n t a i n i ng V i t a m i n E , v i t a m i n A, R i t a p a n D and D e f e n s i n e t o p r o t e c t a g a i n s t t h e d r y i n g and damaging e f f e c t s o f t h e s u n . Ingredients: o/,w/w 1. R i t a b a t e - 8 0 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 80) 3.00 2 . R i t a IPP ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 2.50 3 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 2.50 4 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 2 * 00 5 . T o c o p h e r y l L i no1 e a t e 1.50 6. Sorbitan Stearate 1.50 7. R i t a c e t y l ( A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n ) 1.50 8. Tocopheryl Acetate 1.oo 9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 79.65 1.oo 10.Ritapan D (Panthenol) 1 1 . A c r i t a m e r 934 ( C a r b o m e r ) 0.30 0.60 1 2 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 13.Vitamin A Palmitate 1.20 0.75 1 4 . Germaben IIE 15. Fragrance 4,s. 1 6 . D e f e n s i n e (Wheat Germ E x t r a c t ) 1.00 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s s o l v e i t e m 10 i n i t e m 9 and s l o w l y add i t e m 11 w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . H e a t t o 75C. H e a t i t e m s 1 - 8 t o 75C. Add t o w a t e r w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add i t e m 1 2 . Cool t o 40C. Add i t e m s 1 3 - 1 6 . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w h i 1e m i x i ng R e f . N O . 121-174

.

Oil in Water Sunscreen Cream An o i l i n w a t e r e m u l s i o n t h a t p r o t e c t s a g a i n s t UV-B r a y s . Inaredients: 1. Polyethylene 2 .oo 2. Stearic Acid 0.50 3. Ritalan (Lanolin O i l ) 6.00 4. R i t a IPP ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 12.50 5. Sorbitan Stearate 1.30 1.80 6. R i t a b a t e - 6 0 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 60) 7. O c t y l Methyloxycinnamate 6.50 8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 62.00 9 . A c r i t a m e r 940 ( C a r b o m e r ) 0.20 1 0 . S o r b i t a n (70%) 5.00 0.80 11.Germaben I 1 1 2 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 0.40 1 3 . D e f e n s i n e (Wheat Germ E x t r a c t ) 1 .oo Compounding P r o c e d u r e : S l o w l y s i f t i t e m 9 i n t o i t e m 8 w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Add i t e m s 10 and 11 and h e a t t o 85C. Combine i t e m s 1-7 and h e a t t o 95C. S l o w l y add t o w a t e r w h i l e m i x i n g . Add i t e m 12 w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . C o o l t o 40C and add i t e m 1 3 . R e f . No. 121-172

w

SOURCE: R . I . T . A ,

Corp.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

318

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Self Tanning DHA Cream (W/O Emulsion) Inaredients: O i l Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i 1 WE-09) Hydrogenated Castor O i l M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 ine Wax C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (Tegosoft M) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9 8 0 1 )

Weight%

O i l Phase 6: Cy cl omethi cone Water Phase: Water Propylene Glycol Dihydroxyacetone NaCl Preservatives, Color,

5.0 0.5 0.5 3.0 5.0 4.0 1.o 1.o 4.0 69.2 2.0 4.0 0.8 Q.S

Fragrance

Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f t h e O i l Phase t o g e t h e r . H e a t t o m e l t and d i s p e r s e t h e waxes. When d i s p e r s e d , c o o l t o 40C w h i l e m i x i ng 2 . Add t h e C y c l o m e t h i c o n e . M i x . 3 . Add t h e components o f t h e W a t e r Phase t o g e t h e r . H e a t t o 40C. 4 . A d j u s t pH o f t h e W a t e r Phase t o 4 . 0 - 4 . 5 , i f n e c e s s a r y . 5 . W i t h l i g h t n i n ' m i x i n g , s t r e a m t h e W a t e r Phase i n t o t h e O i l Phase. 6 . W i t h sweep a g i t a t i o n , c o o l t o 35C. 7 . Add c o l o r , f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e s . 8 . Homogenize w i t h a r o t o - s t a t o r h o m o g e n i z e r .

.

SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Sun Care Products

319

Skin Protecting Waterproof Sunscreen A w a t e r p r o o f sunscreen t h a t p r o t e c t s t h e s k i n by a v o i d i n g f r e e r a d i c a l formation w i t h Defensine.

Inqredients: 1. Octylmethoxycinnamate 2 . Benzophenone-3 3. R i t a IPP ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 4 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 5. Stearic Acid 6 . R i t o x 52 (PEG-40 S t e a r a t e ) 7 . R i t a s i l 190 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o 1 8 . D i m e t h y l S t e a r a m i ne 9 . A c r y l a t e s / O c t y l a c r y l a1 amide Cop0 ymer l O . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 1 1 . A c r i t a m e r 941 ( C a r b o m e r ) 1 2 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 13.Germaben 11-E 1 4 . D e f e n s i n e (Wheat Germ E x t r a c t )

%w/w 7.50 3.00 3.00 1 .oo 2.00 1.50 1 .oo 2.00 2.00 72.60 0.20 0.70 1 .oo 2.50

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 - 8 and h e a t t o 70C. S l o w l y s i f t i n i t e m 9 . D i s p e r s e i t e m 11 i n i t e m 10 and h e a t t o 70C. When c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d a d d i t e m 1 2 . A d d o i l t o w a t e r and m i x . A l l o w t o c o o l and add i t e m s 13 and 1 4 . R e f . No. 120-1948 Waterproof Sunscreen A h i g h SPF s u n s c r e e n l o t i o n w h i c h i s w a t e r p r o o f and c o n t a i n s R i t a s i l 190 f o r l u b r i c i t y . Innredients: 1 D i s t i11e d / D e i o n i z e d W a t e r 2 . A c r i t a m e r 941 (Carbomer 9 4 1 ) 3 . Oc t y l m e t h o x y Cinnamate 4 . Benzophenone-3 5 . R i t a IPP ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 6 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 7 . S t e a r i c A c i d XXX 8 . R i t o x 52 (PEG-40 S t e a r a t e ) 9 . R i t a s i l 190 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ) 10.Dimethyl Stearamine 11 . A c r y l a t e s / O c t y l a c r y l ami de C o p o l y m e r 12.TEA 13.Germaben I I E

.

%w/w 74.90 0.20 7.50 3.00 3.00 1.oo 2.00 1.50 1 .oo 2.00 2.00 0.70 1 .oo

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 2 i n i t e m 1 and h e a t t o 70C. When c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d add i t e m 1 2 . Combine i t e m s 3-10 and h e a t t o 70C. S l o w l y s i f t i n i t e m 11 and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t o w a t e r p h a s e a n d m i x . Cool t o 45C and add i t e m 1 3 . R e f . No. 121-99 SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

320

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Solar Protection Lotion Insredient : Wt%* K: D i m e t h i c o n e 2.00 3.50 Hydroxyoctocosanyl Hydroxystearate 0.50 P o t a s s i um C e t y l P h o s p h a t e (Amphi s o l K ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( a n d ) C12-15 A l k y l B e n z o a t e ( T i o v e i 1 FIN) 12.50 Sorbitan Palmitate 3.50 D i l a u r y l Trimethylolpropane Siloxy S i l i c a t e 5.00 8 : D e i o n i z e d Water 63.10 Veegum U1t r a , Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e 0.80 Rhodi g e l , X a n t h a n Gum 0.20 5.00 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 3.50 P o l y s o r b a t e 20 0.30 S o d i um L a c t a t e q.s. L a c t i c A c i d t o pH 5 . 5 C: Methylchloroisothiazolinone ( a n d ) M e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e ( K a t h o n CG) 0.10 Procedure: Weigh t h e w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and h e a t t o 75C. M i x w i t h a h o m o g e n i z e r o p e r a t i n g a t 5000 r p m . Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l , add them t o t h e w a t e r and m i x f o r 2 0 m i n u t e s . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x each f o r 3 m i n u t e s . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 75C. Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , m i x and h e a t t o 75C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B. M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 5000 rpm. T r a n s f e r t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a n d a d j u s t t h e speed t o c r e a t e a s m a l l v o r t e x . B e g i n c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g , a t 40C, add P a r t C . Package a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e . N o t e : A v o i d pH o f 6 . 5 - 7 . 5 a s t h i s may a f f e c t SPF v a l u e . F o r m u l a f r o m A&E Connock, L t d . TiO2 Lotion Innredi ent: A : P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l I s o c e t e t h - 3 A c e t a t e ( H e t e s t e r PHA) 10.00 O c t y i d o d e c y l - N e o p e n t a n o a t e ( E l e f a c 1-250) 10 .oo T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (and) Bismuth Oxychloride 10.00 ( T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 110) B: D e i o n i z e d Water 68.90 Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e 0.70 0.30 Rhodi g e l , X a n t h a n Gum C: M e t h y l c h l o r o i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e (and) M e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l inone 0.10 Procedure: Weigh t h e w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and m i x w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a t 1800 r p m . D r y b l e n d t h e Veegum and R h o d i g e l and add t h e m t o t h e w a t e r . M i x f o r 60 m i n u t e s . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , mix t h e Part A i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l t h e Titanium Dioxide i s unif o r m l y d i s p e r s e d . Add P a r t A t o P a r t B and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add P a r t C , m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m a n d p a c k a g e . Formula f r o m B e r n e l Chemical Co., I n c . *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE: R . T .

V a n d e r b i l t Co.,

I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n s

Sun Care Products

321

Sprayable Sunscreen Innredients: Part A: Dei o n i zed Water G1 y c e r i n AMP-95

% by Weight

79.20 3.00 0.12

Part B: O c t y l M e t h o x y C i nnamate O c t y l S a l ic y 1 a t e Oxybenzone C12-15 A1 coho1 s B e n z o a t e 01e t h - 1 0 S o r b i t a n 01 e a t e D i m e t h i c o n e , 100 c s . Pemulen TR-2

7.00 3.00 2.00 4.00 0.08 0.05 0.50 0.15

Part C: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) M e t h y l paraben (and) Propylparaben 0.80 D i s o d i um EDTA 0.10 Procedure: Combine A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e f o r m u l a t i o n . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , combine a l l B i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t d i m e t h i c o n e and Pemulen. H e a t t o 45-50C t o h a s t e n d i s s o l u t i o n o f o x y b e n z o n e . D i s c o n t i n u e h e a t i n g and add Pemulen. M i x t o o b t a i n a smooth d i s p e r s i o n . Add d i m e t h i c o n e . Add B t o A w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g t o o b t a i n a smooth emuls i o n . Add C . D i s o d i u m EDTA s h o u l d b e added i n c r e m e n t a l l y s u c h t h a t a B r o o k f i e l d v i s c o s i t y o f 500-1000 c p s i s a c h i e v e d (model RVT @ 20 RPM, #2 s p i n d l e ) . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0320 s u g g e s t e d b y B . F . G o o d r i c h

-

Waterproof Aerosol Sunscreen (SPF 10) Inqredients: % bv Weinht SD A l c o h o l 40 43.65 AMP-95 0.35 Dermacryl 2.00 D e i o n i zed w a t e r 9-00 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 7.50 Menthyl Anthani l a t e 4.00 C y c l omethi cone 3.00 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.50 Dimethyl Ether 30.00 Procedure: Combine SD A l c o h o l 40 w i t h AMP-95. W i t h good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n D e r m a c r y l - 7 9 . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e . Add r e s t e x c e p t Dimethyl Ether. Continue mixing u n t i l complete. F i l t e r , f i l l and c h a r g e w i t h d i m e t h y l e t h e r . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0318 s u g g e s t e d by N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & C h e m i c a l (7172-100) SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l Co. : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

322

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunblock Lotion I n t h i s f o r m u l a , Veegum i s u s e d w i t h R h o d i g e l X a n t h a n Gum and a X a n t h a n Gum-based d i s p e r s i b l e emu1 s i f ie r t o s t a b i 1 iz e t h e e m u l s i o n and a d j u s t e m u l s i o n v i s c o s i t y . T h i s c o l d p r o c e s s l o t i o n h a s a l i g h t f e e l w i t h q u i c k , g r e a s e l e s s r u b - n . The s u n s c r e e n s h o u l d o f f e r c o n s i d e r a b l e p r o t e c t i o n a g a i n s t sun1 i g h t - i n d u c e d s k i n p r o b l e m s . The R i t a c h o l and F i n s o l v a r e n c l u d e d f o r emoll i e n c e a n d r a p i d s k i n a b s o r p t i o n on r u b - i n . W t .%* Ingredient : A : Veegum, Magnesi um A l u m i num S i 1 i c a t e 0.60 R h o d i g e l , X a n t h a n Gum 0.15 Dei o n i zed Water 65.45 N o n f a t D r y M i l k ( a n d ) X a n t h a n Gum ( a n d ) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable G l y c e r i d e s Phosphate 0.80 Propylene Glycol 3.00 B : C12-15 A l k y l B e n z o a t e ( F i n s o l v TN) 8.00 Benzophenone-3 ( E s c a l o l 5 6 7 ) 5.00 O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e ( P a r s o l MCX) 7.50 M i n e r a l O i 1 (and) Lanol i n A l c o h o l (Ri t a c h o l ) 4.00 P o l y s o r b a t e 80 0.50 C: Zinc Oxide 5.00 D : P r e s e r v a t iv e q.s. Add t h e Veegum/Rhodigel d r y b l e n d t o t h e w a t e r s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r u n t i l smooth. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g a f t e r e a c h u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . M i x t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l t h e Benzophenone-3 d i s s o l v e s . Add P a r t 8 t o P a r t A and m i x u n t i l s m o o t h . Add P a r t C and t h e n P a r t D and m i x e a c h u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m .

Sunblock with TiO2 Ingredient : W t .%* A : D i i s o p r o p y l Dimer D i l i n o l e a t e (Schercemol D I D ) 10.00 C e t y l O c t a n o a t e (Schercemol CO) 1.50 Sorbitan Stearate 3.00 Glyceryl Isostearate 1-00 Dimethicone Copolyol 1 .oo T i t a n i um D i o x i d e ( a n d ) C a p r y l ic / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e 12.50 C e t e a r y l Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 1 .oo P h e n y l T r imet h i c o n e 1 .50 B: D e i o n i z e d Water 62.20 1.oo Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e R h o d i g e l , X a n t h a n Gum 0.30 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 2.00 P o l y s o r b a t e 60 3.00 C: Preservative q.s. Weigh t h e w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l a n d h e a t t o 70C. M i x t h e w a t e r w i t h a h o m o g e n i z e r a t 5000 rpm. Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum and R h o d i g e l , add t h e m t o t h e w a t e r and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 20 m i n u t e s . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s , m i x i n g each f o r 3 m i n u t e s . Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l , m i x and h e a t t o 70C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B and m i x f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s a t 5000 rpm. Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r , a d j u s t t h e speed t o c r e a t e a s m a l l v o r t e x and b e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 40C a d d P a r t C and c o n t i n u e c o o l i n g . Package a t 35C. SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : F o r m u l a #367 & S c h e r C h e m i c a l s

Sun Care Products

323

Sunless Tanning Lotion % by Wei a h t

Q . S . t o 100.0

D . I.W a t e r M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben Glycerin B r i j 78 Neobee M-5 C o s m e t i c Kessco GMS Kessco C e t y l A1 coho1 Wecobee S S i l i c o n e 20 0 (350 c p s ) G1 y d a n t Dihydroxyacetone C i t r i c A c i d (50%)

0.15 0.01 3.5 0.4 10.0 3.0 2.0 2.5 1 .o 0.25 3.5 Q.S.

M i x i ng Procedure: P r e p a r e w a t e r p h a s e b y a d d i n g w a t e r , M e t h y l Paraben, and G l y c e r i n . M i x w e l l . H e a t t o 160F. P r e p a r e o i l p h a s e b y a d d i n g B r i j 7 8 , Neobee M-5 C o s m e t i c , Kessco GMS, Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l , P r o p y l P a r a b e n , and Wecobee S. H e a t t o 165F. Add o i l p h a s e t o t h e w a t e r p h a s e . I n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n . M i x a t 165F f o r 20-25 m i n u t e s . S t a r t c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . A t llOF, add G l y d a n t . P r e m i x D i h y d r o x y a c e t o n e w i t h w a t e r . Add a t 95F. M i x w e l l . A d j u s t p H ( t o 5.5-6.0) w i t h C i t r i c A c i d . Tanning Accelerator D . 1, W a t e r

M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben G1 y c e r i n B r i j 78 Neobee M-5 C o s m e t i c Kessco GMS Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l Wecobee S S i l i c o n e DC 200 (350 c p s ) G1 y d a n t D i hydroxyacetone C i t r i c A c i d (50%)

% by Weight Q . S . t o 100.0

0.15 0.01 3.5 0.4 10.0 3.0 2 .o 2.5 1 .o 0.25 3.5 Q.S.

M i x i ng P r o c e d u r e : P r e p a r e w a t e r p h a s e by a d d i n g w a t e r , M e t h y l P a r a b e n , and G l y c e r i n . M i x w e l l . H e a t t o 160F. P r e p a r e o i l p h a s e b y a d d i n g B r i j 7 8 , Neobee M-5 C o s m e t i c , P r o p y l P a r a b e n , Kessco GMS, Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l , a n d Wecobee S . H e a t t o 165F. Add o i l p h a s e t o t h e w a t e r phase. I n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n . M i x a t 165F f o r 20-25 m i n u t e s . S t a r t c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . A t llOF, a d d G l y d a n t . P r e m i x D i h y d r o x y a c e t o n e w i t h w a t e r . Add a t 9 5 F . M i x w e l l . A d j u s t pH ( t o 5.5-6.0) w i t h C i t r i c Acid. SOURCE: S t e p a n Co.: S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

324

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Cream SPF 9 Phase # : 1 Dei o n i zed w a t e r 1 2% C a r b o p o l 980 aqueous s o l u t i o n 1 Propylene g l y c o l 1 Methylparaben 1 Propylparaben 1 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% 2 2 2 2 3 3 3 3 3

Dei o n i zed w a t e r T e t r a s o d i um EDTA E u s o l e x 232 ( 2 - p h e n y l b e n z i m i d a z o l e - 5 - s u l f o n i c acid) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% A r l a c e l 165 ( g l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 stearate) Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d ( c y c l o m e t h i c o n e ) Emersol 132 L i l y S t e a r i c A c i d , NF P r i s o r i ne 2039 ( is o s t e a r y l is o s t e a r a t e ) F i n s o l v TN (C12-15 a l k y l b e n z o a t e )

Wt% 29.53 15.00 5.00 0.20 0.10 0.45 10.00 0.02 4.00 4.20 1-00 5.00 5.00 10.00 10.50

Procedure: Add Phase 1 i n g r e d i e n t s t o m a i n v e s s e l u n d e r i m p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . H e a t Phase 1 t o 75-8OC. Combine Phase 2 i n g r e d i e n t s ; m i x t o c l a r i t y w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 70C. S l o w l y add Phase 2 t o Phase 1 . M i x c o m b i n e d p h a s e s a t 75-8OC. Combine Phase 3 i n g r e d i e n t s ; h e a t and m i x t o 85C. S l o w l y a d d Phase 3 t o b a t c h ; m i x f o r 15 m i n u t e s a t 85C. Remove f r o m h e a t ; s w i t c h t o p a d d l e m i x i n g and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .

SOURCE:

Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n EUS2-47-5

Sun Care Products

325

Sunscreen Cream SPF 12+

E %

Phase # : 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2

44.23 Dei o n i zed w a t e r 15.00 2% C a r b o p o l 980 aqueous s o l u t i o n 5.00 Propylene g l y c o l 0.20 Methylparaben 0.10 Propylparaben 0 * 45 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% 0.02 T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 5.00 O c t y l m e t h o x y c i nnamate 3.00 E u s o l e x 4360 A r l a c e l 165 ( g l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 1-00 stearate) 5 IO0 2 Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d ( c y c l o m e t h i c o n e ) 4.00 2 G1 y c e r y l s t e a r a t e 2.50 2 Emersol 132 L i l y S t e a r i c A c i d , NF 10.00 2 P r i sori ne 2039 ( is o s t e a r y l is o s t e a r a t e ) 2.00 2 Castorwax (hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l ) 2.50 2 F i n s o l v TN (C12-15 a1 k y l b e n z o a t e ) Procedure: Add Phase 1 i n g r e d i e n t s t o m a i n v e s s e l u n d e r i m p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . H e a t Phase 1 t o 75-80C. Combine Phase 2 i n g r e d i e n t s ; h e a t and m i x t o 85C. S l o w l y add Phase 2 t o b a t c h ; m i x f o r 15 m i n u t e s a t 85C. Remove f r o m h e a t ; s w i t c h t o p a d d l e m i x i n g and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a t i o n EUS2-93-2 After Sun Lotion Phase # : Wt% 1 Deionized water ad 1 0 0 . 0 0 1 T i m i r o n S t a r 1 i g h t Go1 d 4.00 1 D - P a n t h e n o l USP 1.oo 1 Propylene g l y c o l 3.00 1 Preservatives qs 2 Cremophor A6 ( C e t e a r e t h - 6 ( a n d ) S t e a r y l A1 c o h o l ) 2.00 2 Cremophor A25 ( C e t e a r e t h - 2 5 ) 2.00 7.00 2 L u v i t o l EHO ( C e t e a r y l O c t a n o a t e ) 2 Paraffin O i l 8.00 2 C e t y l A1 c o h o l 1.oo 2 G l y c e r y l Monostearate 6.00 2 Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d ; 100 c s 0.20 2 (+-)-'? - 6 i s a b o l o l 0.20 3 Fragrance CIS Procedure: Combine p h a s e 2, h e a t t o 70-75C w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l homogene o u s . Combine p h a s e 1 , h e a t t o 7O-75CJ add t o p h a s e 2 w i t h s t i r r i n g . S t o p h e a t i n g a t 60C, b e g i n h o m o g e n i z e r m i x i n g . Add p h a s e 3 f r a g r a n c e a t 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e with stirring.

SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,

Inc.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

326

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Cream with UVA Protection (Est. SPF=25) T h i s f o r m u l a c o n t a i n s t h e UVA a b s o r b e r s M e n t h y l A n t h r a n i l a t e and Z i n c O x i d e f o r a s t a b l e , e l e g a n t , high-SPF c o m p o s i t i o n w i t h enhanced U V A u r o t e c t i o n . jngredJe_n_t: A: O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n i m a t e (Ne0 He1 iopan A V ) O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e (Neo He1 opan O S ) M e n t h y l A n t h r a n i l a t e (Ne0 He1 i o p a n MA) I s o c e t y l Alcohol C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) Ce e a r e t h - 2 0 Glyceryl Stearate PEG-40 S t e a r a t e C e t y l A1 coho1 Tocopheryl Acetate Z i nc' Oxide ( Z i nc Oxide N e u t r a l ) D i methi cone B:

Dei o n i zed Water Veegum U l t r a , Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e Rhodi g e l , X a n t h a n Gum P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l D i s o d i um EDTA

C: Methylchloroisothiazolinone i n o n e ( K a t h o n CG)

__ W t .%*

7.50 5.00 5.00 2.00 2.00 1 .50 1-00 0.75 0.25 6.00 1-00 64.70 0 50 I

0.50 2.00

0.20

(and) M e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l 0.10

Procedure: Weigh t h e w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and h e a t t o 75-8OC. M i x t h e w a t e r w i t h a h o m o g e n i z e r a t 5 0 0 0 rpm. Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l , add them t o t h e w a t e r and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 15 m i n u t e s . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g each f o r 3 m i n u t e s . Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l . M i x and h e a t t o 75-8OC. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B and m i x f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s a t 75-8OC. Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r , a d j u s t t h e speed t o p r o d u c e a s m a l l v o r t e x and s t a r t c o o l i n g . A t 40C add P a r t C and c o n t i n u e c o o l i n g . Package a t 35C. *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s SOURCE: R . T , V a n d e r b i l t C o . , I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n Haarman & Reimer C o r p .

from

Sun Care Products

327

Sunscreen Emulsion with Titanium Dioxide T h i s b a s e i s an i d e a l s t a r t i n g p o i n t f o r s u n s c r e e n l o t i o n s . any t y p e o f p i g m e n t e d product. It i s a very s t a b l e formulation f o r

Inqredient : D e i o n i z e d Water Veegum, Magnesi um A 1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e C e l l u l o s e Gum A 1 1a n t o i n Methylparaben T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (and) Alumina (and) G l y c e r i n (and) S i l i c a ( U V - T i t a n M212)

A:

B:

C:

wt. -55 61 . 9 8 0.50 0.15 0.05 0.20 8.00 1

.oo

Lecithin L a n o l in A1 coho1 G1 y c e r y l S t e a r a t e Isopropyl Palmitate Stearic Acid Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides Isoeicosane (Permethyl 102A) P o l y i s o b u t e n e ( P e r m e t h y l 104A) Isostearic Acid Propylparaben

1.50 0.80 4.00 0.50 4.00 7.50 2.50 2.40 0.10

I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea

0.20

D: T r i e t h a n o l ami ne, 99% Pol y g l y c e r y l m e t h a c r y l a t e

1.62

3.00

Procedure: Weigh t h e P a r t A w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and m i x w i t h a h o m o g e n i z e r o p e r a t i n g a t 5 0 0 0 rpm. D r y b l e n d t h e Veegum and c e l l u l o s e gum, add t h e m i x t u r e t o t h e w a t e r and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 3 0 m i n u t e s a t 5 0 0 0 rpm, w h i l e h e a t i n g t h e b a t c h t o 70-72C. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g each u n t i l uniformly dispersed. Mix the Part B i n g r e d i e n t s i n another v e s s e l and h e a t t o 75C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and m i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 5 0 0 0 rpm. Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o c r e a t e a s m a l l v o r t e x . B e g i n c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g . A t 60C, add P a r t C . A t 40C, add t h e P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Package a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e . *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , I n c . : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n f r o m Presperse, I n c ,

328

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Gel C e r a B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax) p r o d u c e s a n o n - g r a n u l a r , l o w p e n e t r a t i o n and h i g h s t a b i l i t y g e l . T h i s f o r m u l a u t i l i z e s an a r r a y o f o i l s and a c t i v e s p r o d u c i n g a p r o d u c t w i t h a n o n - g r e a s y s k i n f e e l , p e n e t r a t e s t h e s k i n q u i c k l y and has an SPF o f 4 t o 6 , O i l Phase: wt./, Sweet Almond O i l ( C r o d a ) 29.0 C e r a B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) 15.3 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) 15.0 J o j o b a O i 1 ( J o j o b a Growers) 13.0 9.0 Sesame O i l ( P o l y e s t h e r ) Avocado O i 1 ( A r i s t a ) 9.0 C e t y l S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( P r o c t o r & Gamble) 4.0 E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) 4.0 O z o k e r i t e 160/164 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1.o Carnauba #1 Y e l l o w ( K o s t e r Keunen) 0.5 V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) 0.1 0.1 V i t a m i n E C o n c e n t r a t e (BASF) Procedure: Weigh and add each component o f t h e o i l p h a s e t o a v e s s e l . H e a t , n o t e x c e e d i n g 75C, and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. Reduce t e m p e r a t u r e t o 60C and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : By r e p l a c i n g t h e j o j o b a , sesame and avocado o i l s w i t h l i g h t m i n e r a l o i 1 ( 2 8 . 8 % ) and i n c r e a s i ng t h e C e r a B e l 1 ina c o n c e n t r a t i o n ( 1 7 . 5 % ) , o n e c a n p r o d u c e t h e same p r o d u c t a s d e s c r i b e d a b o v e . The f o r m u l a t o r h a s t h e a b i l i t y t o s u b s t i t u t e t h e i r p r e f e r r e d o i l s w i t h o n l y s l i g h t c o n c e n t r a t i o n changes o f Cera B e l l i n a t o p r o d u c e p r o d u c t s o f t h e same c o n s i s t e n c y . Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) c a n be added t o n a t u r a l l y enhance t h e SPF. Lip

Care

Balm

T h i s v e r y e c o n o m i c a l p r o d u c t o f f e r s good b a r r i e r p r o p e r t i e s and h a s an SPF o f 4 - 6 . Neo H e l i o p a n ( H & R ) i s a s o l u t i o n o f 2-Ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, a UV-B absorber which o f f e r s p r o t e c t i o n o v e r a w i d e s p e c t r a r a n g e and i s c o n s i d e r e d s a f e . WJ % P e t r o l a t u m W h i t e USP ( W i t c o ) 44.0 S t e a r y l A1 coho1 ( P r o c t o r & Gambl e ) 17.5 NF W h i t e Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 9.5 O z o k e r i t e 160/164 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 19.5 D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2.5 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) 1.o P a r a f f i n 160/165 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 3.0 Neo He1 iopan AV (H&R) 2.0 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (Whi t t a k e r C&D) 1.o Procedure: Add a l l components, h e a t t i l l 75C and u s e l o w s h e a r t o d i s p e r s e t h e T i 0 2 . Once t h e m i x t u r e i s homogeneous, c o o l and p o u r i n t o molds. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : I t i s e a s y t o i n c o r p o r a t e a c t i v e s s u c h as v i t a m i n s , o t h e r o i l s and a d d i t i o n a l s u n s c r e e n s t o i n c r e a s e t h e SPF. F r a g r a n c e and c o l o r s a r e a l s o e a s i l y a d d e d . T h i s f o r m u l a i s v e r y s t a b l e and s l ig h t s u b s t i t u t i o n s i n i n g r e d i e n t s can be t o 1 e r a t e d . SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c , : A G u i d e t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g

Sun Care Products

329

Sunscreen Lotion Formul a t i n g D e s i gn and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s f o r m u l a d e m o n s t r a t e s t h e r h e o l o g i c a l and s t a b i 1 i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a . I n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h i s f o r m u l a i s t h e s u n s c r e e n E s c a l o l ( O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA; Van Dyk) g i v i n g t h i s f o r m u l a an a p p r o x i m a t e SPF v a l u e o f 4 t o 6 . The p r o d u c t h a s h i g h g l o s s and e x c e l l e n t s k i n f e e l . The r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s o f C e r a B e l l i n a a l l o w f o r t h i s p r o d u c t t o be packaged i n c o n v e n i e n t t u b e s o r squeeze b o t t l e s .

O i l Phase: E s c a l o l 5 0 7 (Van Dyk) Amerchol L 101 ( A m e r c h o l ) C e r a B e l 1 i na (Pg-3 Beeswax; K o s t e r Keunen) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel ) Light Mineral O i l (Witco) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) 1,3-Butylene G l y c o l (Hoechst) G l y c e r i n e (Unichema) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n ) Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e ( H e r c u l e s )

Wt% 5.63 4.70 3.80 2.77 2.83 1.00 71 - 6 6 2.90 2.83 0.80 0.80 0.28

Procedure: H e a t t h e w a t e r p h a s e t o 75C u n d e r a g i t a t i o n e n s u r i n g t h a t t h e e n t i r e p h a s e i s s o l u b i l i z e d . M e l t and m i x t h e o i l p h a s e a t 75F. S l o w l y add t h e o i l p h a s e t o t h e w a t e r p h a s e u n d e r v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C and p o u r i n t o j a r s . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : I t i s easy t o a l t e r t h e sunscreen t o s u i t y our p r e f e r e n c e , w i t h o u t c h a n g i n g t h e c o n s i s t e n c y . The e m u l s i o n v i s c o s i t y c a n e a s i l y b e a l t e r e d b y c h a n g i n g t h e o i l a n d / o r wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n . Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) c a n b e a l t e r e d b y c h a n g i n g t h e o i l a n d / o r wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n . Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) c a n b e added t o n a t u r a l l y enhance t h e SPF.

SOURCE:

K o s t e r Keunen,

Inc.:

A Guide t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g

330

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Milk W/O I n t h i s w/o s u n s c r e e n m i l k , L i p o g a r d a c t s a s a f r e e r a d i c a l s c a v e n g e r and p r o t e c t s s k i n l i p i d s f r o m p e r o x i d a t i o n . P e n t a v i t i n Drovides the s k i n w i t h moisture.

Itern 1 2 3 4

5 6 7

Ingredients: A) A r l a c e l 989 A r l a c e l 481 Paraffin Oi 1 Isopropyl Palmitate P a r s o l MCX P a r s o l 1789 L i pogard

8 9 10

B ) D e i o n i z e d Water Phenoni p Pentavi ti n

11

C ) F r a g r a n c e : S o l a r a 0/227632

Wei q h t % 6.00

1.50 14.00 6.00 3.00 3.00

3.00 57.70 0.50 5.00 0 30 I

Procedure: H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y p h a s e A) t o 70C. H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r p h a s e B ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add p h a s e 6) t o p h a s e A ) , c o o l t o 50C, homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then add p h a s e C) and s t i r c o l d . SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . :

A p p l i c a t i o n No. G 006.A/03,96 After Sun Lotion

Ingredients: Weight% I m w i t o r 960K, F l a k e s ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e S E ) 4.00 M i g l yo1 840 ( P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ) 7.00 C e t y l A1 coho1 1-00 H o s t a p h a t KL 340 N ( D i l a u r e t h - 4 - P h o s p h a t e ) 5.00

A)

8 ) P r e s e r v a t iv e K e l t r o l F Gel 2% ( X a n t h a n Gum) C i t r i c Acid Water

C) F r a g r a n c e Vitamin E

4,s.

30.00 0.30 u p t o 100.00 q.s. 0.20

P r e p a r a t i on : ( A ) i s h e a t e d up t o c a . 75 d e g r e e s C . ( B ) i s s t i r r e d and b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o ( A ) . ( C ) i s added a t a b o u t 35 d e g r e e s C. SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n 4 . 2 D

Sun Care Products

331

Sunscreen Milk W/O I n t h i s w/o s u n s c r e e n m i l k , L i p o g a r d a c t s a s f r e e r a d i c a l s c a v e n g e r and p r o t e c t s t h e s k i n l i p i d s f r o m p e r o x i d a t i o n . Pentavitin provides the skin with moisture. Item: Ingredients: 1 A ) A r l a c e l 989 2 A r l a c e l 481 3 Paraffin O i l 4 Isopropyl palmitate 5 P a r s o l MCX 6 P a r s o l 1789 7 L i pogard 8 8 ) Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d 9 Phenoni p 10 Pentavitin C ) Fragrance/0/227632 Sol a r a 11 Procedure: H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y p h a s e A ) t o 70C. H e a t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r p h a s e B) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add p h a s e B) t o p h a s e A ) , c o o l t o 50C, n i z e and c o o l t o 30C. Then add p h a s e C ) and s t i r c o l d .

SOURCE:

Pentapharm L t d . :

%w/w 6.00 1.50 14.00 6.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 57.70 0.50 5.00 0.30

homoge-

A p p l i c a t i o n No. G 0 0 6 . A / 0 3 . 9 6 Sunscreen Spray

Phase/Ingredi e n t : % b y Wei g h t A ) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e DC 345 55.60 A ) * P o l y s y n l ane 10.00 A ) *Grapeseed O i l 2.00 A ) * S u n f l o w e r Seed O i 1 2.50 A) V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e 0.25 A ) Tenox 6 0.15 A ) F r a g r a n c e Novarome NC-48 0.50 B ) C e r a p h y l 230 5.00 B) O c t y l M e t h o x y c i nnamate 7.50 B) Oxybenzone 4.00 B) O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e 5.00 B) Transcutol 7.50 *Pol y e s t h e r Corp. Product M a n u f a c t u r in g I n s t r u c t i o n s : Combine p h a s e A . Combine p h a s e 8. Add p h a s e B t o phase A . Package. An e a s y t o a p p l y s p r a y t h a t l e a v e s t h e s k i n p r o t e c t e d f r o m b o t h UVA a n d UVB r a d i a t i o n . I t s p r e a d s q u i c k l y and i s c o m p l e t e l y n o n - g r e a s y . The a n t i c i p a t e d SPF i s 1 5 . The f o r m u l a t i o n e x h i b i t s e x c e l l e n t s o l u b i l i z a t i o n o f t h e oxybenzone, w h i c h i s o f t e n seen t o c r y s t a l l i z e out. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

SOURCE:

Polyesther Corp.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

332

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Moisturizing Cream F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s f o r m u l a d e m o n s t r a t e s t h e r h e o l o g i c a l and s t a b i 1 iz i ng p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a . I n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h i s f o r m u l a i s t h e s u n s c r e e n E s c a l o l ( O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA; Van Dyk) g i v i n g t h i s f o r m u l a an a p p r o x i m a t e SPF v a l u e o f 4 t o 6 . The cream has h i g h g l o s s and e x c e l 1 e n t s k i n f e e l

.

O i l Phase: C e r a B e l l i n a (PG-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) Minosil (Pride Solvents) E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) Amerchol L l O l ( A m e r c h o l ) C a s t o r O i l (Caschem) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) O z o k e r i t e 1 6 0 / 1 6 4 ( K o s t e r Keunen) S i l i c o n e F l u i d 245 (Dow C o r n i n g ) P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) Butylene G l y c o l (Hoechst) Sodium B o r a t e ( B o r a x ) M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

Wt% 6.0 6.0 5.1 5.0 3.0 2.0 2.0 1.o 1.o 0.2 65.3 2.9 0.2 0.3

Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r phase t o 75C u n d e r a g i t a t i o n e n s u r i n g t h a t t h e e n t i r e phase i s s o l u b i l i z e d . M e l t and m i x t h e o i l phase u n t i l homogeneous and a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C i s m a i n t a i n e d . S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase under v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C and p o u r i n t o j a r s . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : I t i s easy t o a l t e r t h e s u n s c r e e n t o s u i t y o u r p r e f e r e n c e , w i t h o u t c h a n g i n g t h e c o n s i s t e n c y . The e m u l s i o n v i s c o s i t y c a n e a s i l y be a l t e r e d b y c h a n g i n g t h e o i l a n d / o r wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n . Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) c a n b e added t o n a t u r a l l y enhance t h e SPF.

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : A G u i d e t o N a t u r a l F o r m u l a t i n g

Sun.Care Products

Sunscreen Stick Phase : A A A A A A A A

Inpredient : Beeswax M y r i t o l 318 O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia Nut O i l Cetearyl Alcohol Carnauba Wax Petrolatum O c t y l p - M e t h o x y c i nnamate Vitamin E

% by W e i g h t

15.00 15.00 10.00 8.00 1.50 50.50 5.00 0.25

M a n u f a c t u r i n g Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s a t 75C. Pour i n t o m o l d s . SPF w o u l d be 4 t o 6 . S u n s c r e e n i s t h e O c t y l p - M e t h o x y c i n n amate. Beeswax, c a r n a u b a and c e t e a r y l a l c o h o l f o r m t h e s t i c k . The Macadamia N u t O i l h e l p s r e d u c e P e t r o l a t u m ' s t a c k y f e e l . V i t a m i n E s e r v e s as an a n t i - o x i d a n t . SOURCE: O i l s o f A l o h a :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n Aloe After Sun Lotion % by W e i a h t

Formula: A:

74.00 3.0 1.o 0.5

Water G1 y c e r i n Triethanolamine Germaben I 1

8: S t e a r i c Acid C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 (Wi t c o ) F i n e s o l v TN C e t y l A 1 coho1 S i l i c o n e F l u i d 225 Cocoa B u t t e r Isopropyl Lanolate C: Aloe-Con WG-40 ( F l o r i d a Food P r o d u c t s ) D: Fragrance

8.0 5.0 2.0 1.o 0.5 2.0 2.0 1.o

q.s.

Procedure: Heat p h a s e s t o 80C. A t 80C add o i l p h a s e t o w a t e r p h a s e . M i x and c o o l t o 55C. Add a l o e c o n c e n t r a t e t o b a t c h a t 55C. Add f r a g r a n c e a t 45C. SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

333

334

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sun Tan Oil-A Formula: SF1 2 0 4 SS4267 51 a n d o l M i n e r a l O i 1 ( W i t c o ) E s c a l o l 507 P r e s e r v a t iv e Perfume

% by Weiaht 45 5 45 5 9,s. q.s.

Sun Tan Oil-B Formula: SF1 204 SS4267 Blandol Mineral O i 1 (Witco) F1 u i 1an S u n f 1ower O i 1 ( L i po) E s c a l o l 507 Preservat i ve Perfume

% by Weight

40 5 40 5 5 5 q.s. q.s.

Sun Tan Oil-C Formula: SF1 2 0 4 554267 Blandol Mineral O i 1 ( W i t c o ) Flui lan Almond O i 1 S u n f 1ower O i 1 E s c a l o l 507 Preservative Perfume

% by Weight

40 5 35 5 5 5 5 q.s. 9.s.

Procedure: B l e n d a l l i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t SS4267. Add SS4267 and s t i r t o a c l ear s o l u t i on.

SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Sun Care Products

335

Wash-Off Resistant Sunscreen Lotion with Crodafos CES The i n c o r p o r a t i o n o f C r o d a f o s CES i n t h e f o r m u l a e n a b l e s t h i s s u n s c r e e n l o t i o n t o a t t a i n h i g h e r s t a t i c SPF and s u s t a i n a more i m p r o v e d w a t e r p r o o f SPF. These i m p r o v e d SPF's a r e due t o t h e a b i l i t y o f C r o d a f o s CES t o enhance o i l d e p o s i t i o n , w h i c h g i v e s t h e h i g h e r i n i t i a l SPF, and t o i t s s u b s t a n t i v i t y a s a p h o s p h a t e b a s e d e m u l s i f y i n g system, w h i c h r e s u l t s i n b e t t e r r e s i s t a n c e t o w a s h - o f f t o g i v e t h e h i g h e r s u s t a i n e d w a t e r p r o o f SPF. Ingredients: P a r t A: C r o d a f o s CES ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l C r o d a c o l C-70 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) V o l p o S-2 ( S t e a r e t h - 2 ) V o l p o S-10 ( S t e a r e t h - 1 0 ) Petrolatum M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu)

Wt% (and) C e t e a r y l Phosphate)

Part 8: Deionized water TEA 99%

6.0 0.5 0.5 1.o 4.5 8.0 70.7 0.3

P a r t C: Propylene G l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) Methyl Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben O c t y l Methoxycinnamate pH=5.0+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y = ( R V T S p i n d l e # 5 , lOrpm,

1 .o 7.5

25C)=13,00Ocps+-10%

Procedure : Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-8OC. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-80C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l temperature. N . A . T . C . Approved

SOURCE;

Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n

SC-258

336

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Water-In-Oil Sunscreen SPF 26 Inqredients: Phase A : C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e Copol yo1 ( a n d ) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 Wax 9 8 4 0 ) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) Mineral O i l Beeswax Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l

Weight%

Phase B : O c t y l Methoxycinnamate T i t a n i um D i o x i d e Cy cl omethi cone

5.00 0.25 1 .25 5.35 1.75 1.20 0.80 5.00 5.00 4.40

Phase C : Water Sodium C h l o r i d e P r e s e r v a t i ves

69.20 0.80

Q.S

Procedure: 1 . H e a t Phase A t o 85C t o m e l t and d i s p e r s e waxes. 2 . Cool Phase A t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w e n e r g y mixer. 3 . R o l l e r m i l l t o reduce p a r t i c l e s i z e o f T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e . 4 . Cool t o 50C. 5 . H e a t Phase C t o 50C. Add Phase C t o A/B s l o w l y w i t h l o w e n e r g y m i x i n g . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y a p p e a r a n c e a t a l l times while mixing. 6 . Cool t o 35C and h o m o g e n i z e .

SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Sun Care Products

337

Waterproof SPF 30 Sunscreen T h i s s u n s c r e e n f o r m u l a c o n t a i n i n g C r o d a s new c o n d i t i o n i ng and e m u l s i f y i n g s y s t e m C r o d a f o s CES was c l i n i c a l l y t e s t e d b y AMA L a b o r a t o r i e s f o r i t s Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r (SPF) and shown t o h a v e a s t a t i c SPF o f 3 1 . 6 6 and a W a t e r p r o o f SPF o f 3 0 . 3 1 . The a b i l i t y o f C r o d a f o s CES t o i n c r e a s e o i l d e p o s i t i o n and i m p r o v e w a s h - o f f r e s i s t a n c e a p p e a r s t o enhance t h e f o r m u l a ' s s u n s c r e e n p e r f o r m a n c e and c o n t r i b u t e t o t h e h i g h SPF. Inqredients: D e i o n i zed Water C a r b o p o l 981 C r o d a f o s CES ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l Benzophenone-3 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate O c t y l S a l ic y 1 a t e Menthyl Anthrani l a t e Crodamol OS ( O c t y l S t e a r a t e )

Wei n h t % 63.23 0.13 (a nd ) C e t e a r y l Phosphate)

NaOH-10% S o l n . BHT Propylene G l y c o l (and) Diazo1 i d i n y l Urea (and) Methyl Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l P a r a b e n

6.50 5.00 7.50 5.00 5.00 5.00 1.54 0.10 1.oo

pH=5.8+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y = 1 7 , 0 0 0 cps+-10% (RVT S p i n d l e TB, 10 rpm @ 2 5 C ) . S t a t i c SPF=31.66 W a t e r p r o o f SPF=30.31 Procedure: Dust Carbopol i n t o t h e d e i o n i z e d water w h i l e s t i r r i n g r a p i d l y . M i x w e l l f o r good h y d r a t i o n . B e g i n h e a t i n g t o 75-80C. Add C r o d a f o s CES and m i x w e l l u n t i l a l l i s m e l t e d and homogeneous. Add Benzophenone-3, O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e , O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e , M e n t h y l A n t h r a n i l a t e and Crodamol OS i n d i v i d u a l l y a n d w i t h good m i x i n g . C o n t i nue m i x i n g a t 75-80C, u n t i 1 homogeneous. B e g i n s l o w c o o l i n g and a t 60C add NaOH s o l u t i o n . Cool t o 45C and add BHT and p r e s e r v a t i v e . N . A . T . C Approved

SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-260

338

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Waterproof Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15) Using Pemulen TR-1 and Carbopol Ultrez 10 Insredients: D e i o n i z e d Water M e t h o c e l E4M Nuosept C D i s o d i um EDTA AMP-95 B . Neo H e l i o p a n , Type AV Neo He1 i o p a n , Type OS U v i n u l M-40 F i n s o l v TN Pemulen TR-1 Carbopol U l t r e z 10 C . C r o v o l A-40 F r a g r a n c e #99189 "Twi s t e t - "

A.

?&by

Weight 82.60 0.10 0.20 0.05 0.25 7.00 3.00 2.00 4.00 0.25 0.20 0.20 0.15

Procedure: 1 Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i 1 homogeneous. 2 . Combine f i r s t f o u r P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . H e a t m i x t u r e u n t i l o x y b e n z o n e has d i s s o l v e d . 3 . C o o l P a r t B t o 45C. D i s p e r s e l a s t t w o P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n Mix u n t i l polymers a r e dispersed w e l l . Part B vessel 4 . W i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n , a d d P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l a smooth, n o n - g r a i n y d i s p e r s i o n i s a p p a r e n t . Add P a r t C and m i x v i g o r o u s l y u n t i l a smooth, l u s t r o u s p r o d u c t is o b t a i n e d . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0375 s u g g e s t e d by 8 . F . G o o d r i c h (P0052)

.

Sunscreen Cream % by Weight

Ingredients: A. Deionized water Rheol a t e 5000 P r o p y l ene c a r b o n a t e B. P a n a l e n e S i 1 ic o n e 7207 Promulgen D C e r a p h y l 494 C . AMP-95 D . E u x y l K-400 F i n s o l v TN E s c a l o l 507

78.16 0.30 2.50 8.00 1 .oo 0.50 2.00 0.24 0.30 2.00 5.00

Procedure: S i f t t h e p o l y m e r i n t h e w a t e r , m i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s and add t h e p r o p y l e n e c a r b o n a t e . H e a t t o 80C. Combine B and h e a t t o 78C. Add B t o A w i t h s t i r r i n g . M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s and add C . Cool t o 40C and a d d D. Package a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0313 s u g g e s t e d b y Rheox, I n c . SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l C o . :

Product Formulary

Sun Care Products

339

Waterproof Suntan Lotion SPF 17 Inqredient: Wt%x: A: Isostearic Acid 4.00 Cetyl Alcohol 1 .oo DEA C e t y l P h o s p h a t e 2.00 0.50 Dimethicone O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e ( P a r s o l MCX) 7.50 O c t y l S a l i c y 1a t e 4.00 Benzophenone-3 ( U v i n u l M-40) 2.00 O c t y l d o d e c y l Neopenanoate ( E e f a c 1-205) 10.00 B : D e i o n i z e d Water 63.00 Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S 1 i c a t e 0.75 Rhodi g e l , X a n t h a n Gum 0.25 G1 y c e r i n 4.00 C: P r o p y l ene G 1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben 1.00 Weigh t h e w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and h e a t t o 85C. D r y b l e n d t h e Veegum and R h o d i g e l and add them t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h a h o m o g e n i z e r a t 5 0 0 0 rpm. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 2 0 m i n u t e s , Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t and m i x 3 m i n u t e s . Weigh and m i x t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a n o t h e r v e s s e l and h e a t them t o 85C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B and m i x f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s a t 5000 rpm. Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o c r e a t e a s m a l l v o r t e x . B e g i n c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g s l o w l y . A t 40C, add P a r t C . C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and package a t 35C. Formula f r o m B e r n e l Chemical C o . , I n c . SPF 12 Sunscreen Liposome Lotion T h i s i s an e l e g a n t f e e l i n g s u n s c r e e n i n a c o l d - p r o c e s s l o t i o n c o n t a i n i n g 1 iposomes f o r l o n g e r 1 a s t i n g p r o t e c t i o n Ingredient: _____ W t .%* A: D e i o n i z e d Water 58.53 Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e 1.40 0.18 Rhodi g e l X a n t h a n Gum 0.56 C e l l u l o s e Gum (CMC 7MF) B : G l y c e r i n , 99% 3.00 Butylene Glycol (and) G l y c e r i n (and) Chlorophenesin ( a n d ) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( K i 11 i t o 1 ) 3.00 Water ( a n d ) O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e ( a n d ) Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e (and) Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconal (and) Phosphoglycerides (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben ( a n d ) B u t y l p a r a b e n ( S a n s u r f OMC) 23.33 Water ( a n d ) O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e ( a n d ) Soy Phosphog l y c e r i d e s (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Toc ophery l A c e t a t e (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Butylparaben (Sunscreen Liposomes) 10.00 Weigh t h e w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and m i x w i t h a p r o p e l l e r s t i r r e r a t 1800 rpm. Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum, R h o d i g e l and CMC and add them t o t h e w a t e r . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 60 m i n u t e s a t 1 8 0 0 rpm. Reduce t h e m i x e r speed t o p r o d u c e a s l i g h t v o r t e x and add t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g e a c h f o r 5 m i n u t e s . Package. *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s F o r m u l a from C o l l a b o r a t i v e L a b o r a t o r i e s SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , Inc. : Veegum F o r m u l a t i o n s I

340

Costlietic and Toiletry Formulations

Water-Resistant Suntan Lotion Formula:

% by W e i g h t

A:

Dei o n i zed Water V e r s e n e Powder Carbomer 9 3 4 B: Glycerin Propylene Glycol Methylparaben E t h y lparaben C: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l X a n t h a n Gum D: S o l u t i o n o f 10% E t h o c e l (Dow) a n d D i i s o p r o p y l A d i p a t e Carnation Mineral Oi 1 (Wi tco) Glyceryl Stearate Sorbitan Stearate S t e a r i c Acid D i m e t h i cone O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA White Fonoline Petrolatum (Witco) Cetyl Alcohol E: D e i o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne F: Dei o n i zed Water D o w i c i l 200 G: Perfume

60.90 0.05 0.15 3.00 1 .oo 0.20 0.15 2.00 0.10

10.00 10.00 3.00 1 .oo 2.00 0.50 1.50 1 .oo 1 .oo 1.00 0.20 1 .oo 0.10

0.15

Procedure: B e g i n m i x i n g w a t e r w i t h o u t h e a t ; a d d V e r s e n e and d i s s o l v e . S p r i n k l e i n Carbomer and m i x r a p i d l y . S t a r t h e a t i n g t o 80C. M i x B p h a s e , h e a t t o 80C; add t o A when A i s above 60C. M i x C , add t o A a t 60C. M i x D, h e a t t o 80C, add t o w a t e r p h a s e when b o t h a t 80C. M i x E , add t o b a t c h , m i x 10 m i n . , s t a r t t o c o o l . A t 45C, add F, t h e n p e r f u m e o i l .

SOURCE: W i t c o C a r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

Sun Care Products

341

Zinc Oxide Sunscreen (Measured SPF=9.2) Ingredient: W t .%* A: G l y c e r y l Stearate 2.50 PEG-40 S t e a r a t e 0.75 C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) Ceteareth-20 0.75 T r i c o n t a n y l PVP 2.00 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides 5.00 Mineral O i l 5.00 Dimethicone 2.00 B: Zinc Oxide ( Z i n c Oxide N e u t r a l ) 10.00 C : D e i o n i z e d Water 65.35 Veegum U1t r a , Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e 0.75 0.50 Rhodi g e l , X a n t h a n Gum Propylene Glycol 5.00 T e t r a s o d i um E D T A 0.10 D: DMDM H y d a n t o i n ( a n d ) I o d o p r o p y n y l B u t y l c a r b a m a t e 0.20 L a c t i c A c i d , 88% 0.10 Weigh t h e P a r t C w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and m i x w i t h a p r o p e l l e r s t i r r e r o p e r a t i n g a t 1800 rpm. Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l and add them t o t h e w a t e r . M i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s a t 1800 rpm. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . B e g i n h e a t i n g t h e w a t e r p h a s e t o 80C. Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l and h e a t t o 80C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . S l o w l y add P a r t s A+B t o P a r t C and homogenize a t 5000 rpm u n t i l u n i f o r m . T r a n s f e r t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o p r o d u c e a s m a l l v o r t e x , B e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 40C, add P a r t D . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g . Package a t 25-3OC. Sunscreen Lotion Using Micronized TiO2 -I m r e d i e n t : W t .%* A: Propylene Glycol Isoceteth-3 Acetate 8.00 C12-15 A l k y l B e n z o a t e 5.00 C a s e i n ( a n d l X a n t h a n Gum (Tensami 3 0 6 ) 1.50 0.25 P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( T r i s e p t P) . B: D e i o n i z e d W a t e r 67.40 0.70 Veegum, Magnesi urn Aluminum S i i c a t e C: M e t h y l G l u c e t h - 2 0 5.00 G1 y c e r in 3.00 M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( T r s e p t M) 0.25 T i t a n i um D i o x i de M i c r o T i t a n um D i o x i d e MT-5OOB) 5.00 D: D e i o n i z e d Water 3.00 I r n i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( T r i s t a t I U ) 0.30 E : Sodium L a c t a t e 0.60 Weigh t h e w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and h e a t t o 7 5 C . M i x t h e w a t e r w i t h a h o m o g e n i z e r a t 5000 rpm. Add t h e Veegum t o t h e w a t e r and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 20 m i n u t e s . Add t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g each f o r 5 m i n u t e s . Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l . M i x and h e a t t h e m t o 75C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t s B + C and m i x f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s a t 75C. Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o c r e a t e a small v o r t e x . Begin c o o l i n g w i t h continuous, slow m i x i n g . Mix t h e P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s and add them a t 40C, t h e n add P a r t E. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g . Package a t 35C. *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s . SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . : F o r m u l a s Haarman & R e i m e r / T r i - K

342

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Zinc Oxide Sunscreen Cream (PABA/Oxybenzone Free) Estimated SPF=20 Innredient : A : O c t o c r y l e n e (Neo H e l i o p a n 303) O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e (Neo He iopan A V ) I s o c e t y l Alcohol C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r e h-20 Glyceryl Stearate PEG-40 S t e a r a t e D i m e t h i cone Cetyl Alcohol Tocopheryl Acetate B: Z i n c O x i d e C : D e i o n i z e d Water Veegum U1 t r a , Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e Rhodi g e l , X a n t h a n Gum P r o p y l ene G l y c o l D i s o d i um EDTA D: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben

W t %* I

7.00 7.50 2.00 2.00 3.00 1 .oo 1.00 0.75 0.25 6.00 65.30 0.50 0.50 2.00 0.20 1

.oo

Procedure: Weigh t h e P a r t C w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and m i x w i t h a p r o p e l l e r s t i r r e r o p e r a t i n g a t 1 8 0 0 rpm. Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l and add them t o t h e w a t e r . M i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s a t 1800 rpm. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . B e g i n h e a t i n g t h e w a t e r p h a s e t o 75C. Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l and h e a t t o 75C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . S l o w l y add P a r t s A+B t o P a r t C and homogenize a t 5000 r p m u n t i l u n i f o r m . T r a n s f e r t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o p r o d u c e a s m a l l v o r t e x . B e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 40C, add P a r t D . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g . Package a t 25-28C.

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , Reimer Corp.

Inc.:

Veegum F o r m u l a f r o m Haarman &

Section XII Miscellaneous

343

Costnetic and Toiletry Formulations

344

Fluoride Dentifrice* % by Weight

Ingredients: C a l c i um p y r o p h o s p h a t e S o r b i t o 1 , 70% a q . s o l n . S o d i um l a u r y l s u l f a t e Sodium c a r b o x y m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e S o d i urn s a c c h a r i n e Stannous f l u o r i d e Hexetidine F1 a v o r i ng Water *UK

45.00 20.00 1.20 0.60 0.10 0.40 0.20 0.75 31.75

P a t e n t 2,001,526A h e l d b y W i l l i a m R . Warner Co. L t d .

(1979)

Mouthwash* Ingredients: Ethanol Glycerol Ethoxylated high-purity Zinc C i t r a t e H e x e t i d i ne Flavoring, saccharine Water *European

% by Weight

10.00 5.00 castor o i l

(Cremophor EL)

0.25 0.15 0.20 0.10 t o 100.00

P a t e n t 0,049,830 A2 h e l d b y P r o f e s s o r Hans Muehlmann

(1982) Gum-Massage-Gel* Inqredi ents: Water A1 1a n t o i n Panthenol Cetylpyridinium chloride H e x e t id i ne Methyl c e l l u l ose Peppermi n t o i 1

% by Weiqht

87.69 1 .oo

5.00 0.01 0.10 6.00 0.20

* S w i s s P a t e n t 622,945 h e l d b y Hans L u k a s c h e k and P r o f e s s o r M a n f r e d Mai e r ( 1 981 )

SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l Co.: P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Miscellaneous

345

Glycerol Gel Base Other ingredients may be incorporated as desired. Ingredients: Water, d e i o n i z e d S t a b i l e z e 06 AMP-95 Glycerine Additives Germall I 1

% by Weight 9.00 0.50 0.50 89.70 q.s. 0.30

Procedure: Disperse S t a b i l e z e i n water w i t h s t i r r i n g f o r 10 minutes. H e a t t h e d i s p e r s i o n t o 70-80C f o r 15 t o 20 m i n u t e s , u n t i l t h i c k e n i n g o c c u r s . S t a r t c o o l i n g . Add AMP w i t h s t i r r i n g . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add g l y c e r i n e s l o w l y o v e r 10 m i n u t e s w i t h s t i r r i n g . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m g e l i s o b t a i n e d . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , m i x i n g t h o r o u g h l y a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0244E s u g g e s t e d b y I S P Aculyn 33 Fluid Gel Emulsion Ingredients: A. Water A c u l y n 33 Isopropyl myristate I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a EDTA Na2

% by Weight t o 100% 2.50 10.00 0.30 0.15

8. AMP-95

2.50

Procedure: Mix t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e order l i s t e d . Physical Characteristics: A p p e a r a n c e : F1 u i d g e l pH: 7 . 3 4 V i s c o s i t y : 700 c p s F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0387

s u g g e s t e d b y Rohm & Haas C o .

SOURCE: Angus Cherni c a l CO. : P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

(PF-039)

346

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Oil Liposome Gel 46 b y W e i g h t

Innredients: Phase 1 : W a t e r , dem. Panthenol

ad 1 0 0 . 0 0 10.00 13.30

Phase 2 : A l c o h o l Phase 3 :

0.80

U l t r e z 10

Phase 4 : J o j o b a O i l T i t a n i um D i o x i d e

5.00 0.50

Phase 5 : T r i s Amino W a t e r , dem.

q.s. 5.00

Phase 6 : N a t i p i d e I 1

5.00

Phase 7 :

P r e s e r v a t iv e s ,

q.s.

Perfume

Manufacture: 1 . M a n u f a c t u r i n g a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . 2 . S l o w l y add p h a s e 2 t o p h a s e 1 w h i l e s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . 3 . S l o w l y add p h a s e 3 w h i l e s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . 4 . Homogenize t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y . 5 . Add p h a s e 4 w h i l e s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . 6 . Homogenize t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y . 7 . Add p h a s e 5 w h i l e s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . 8 . Homogenize t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y . 9 . Add p h a s e 6 w h i l e s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . 10 . Homogeni ze t h e m i x t u r e in t e n s i v e 1 y 1 1 . A d d p h a s e 7 and homogenize t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y f o r a short time.

.

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0376E s u g g e s t e d b y Rhone-Poulenc SOURCE: Angus C h e m i c a l C o . :

Product Formulary

Rorer.

Miscellaneous

347

Ritavena 5 (1.0%)/Acritamer 934 (1.0%) Blend

%w/w

Ingredients: P a r t A: 1 . D i s t i l l e d Water 2. Methylparaben Part B: 3. Ritavena 5 4. D i s t i l l e d Water,

0.00 0.15 1.oo 10.00

(1OOC)

P a r t C: 5 . A c r i t a m e r 934 6 . D i s t i l l e d Water

1 .oo 75.80

P a r t D: 7 . G l y d a n t 40/700 8 . NaOH (20% S o l u t i o n )

0.25 1.80

Compoundi n g P r o c e d u r e : Premix A i n h o t water b a t h . Premix C . Mix B i n Blender f o r 2 m i n u t e s . M i x A and B . Add C . A d j u s t p H t o 7 . 0 w i t h NaOH s o l u t i o n . Combine. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . F o r m u l a t i o n 11 1-1 17

Gel Stick A s o l i d g e l s t i c k o b t a i n e d b y u s i n g B e h e n o y l L a c t y l a t e and P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l . The a d d i t i o n o f R i t a v e n a 5 a d d s s l i p and g l i d e f o r a p p l i c a t i o n , and r e d u c e s c r u m b l i n g o f e d g e s . The R i t a v e n a 5 a l s o reduces s y n e r i s i s o f t h e g l y c o l .

w

Ingredients : P a r t A: 1 . Behenoyl L a c t y l a t e 2. Propylene Glycol 3 . R i t a CA

15.00 70.00 3.00

P a r t 8: 4 . D i s t i l l e d W a t e r (1OOC) 5 . Ritavena 5

6.48 1 .oo

P a r t C: 6 . Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 2 0 % S o l u t i o n )

4.52

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Weigh and h e a t P a r t A t o 170F. A l l i t e m s s h o u l d b e l i q u i d . Mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Premix P a r t B i n a Blender f o r 2 minutes. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x . A d j u s t pH t o 8 . 5 w i t h P a r t C . Package while f l u i d . M e l t p o i n t ca. 55C. F o r m u l a t i o n 114-1 11

SOURCE:

R.I.T.A.

Corp,:

R i t a v e n a 5 : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Section XIII Trade-Named Raw Materials

348

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MAT E R IALS

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

349

SOURCE

A b i l AV-20, B 8851 , B 8852, B 88183

Phenyl t r i m e t h i cone

Go1dschmi d t

A b i l EM-90

C e t y l d i m e t h i c o n e c o p o l yo1

Go1 dschmi d t

A b i l OSW 12

Cycl omethi cone/di methi c o n o l / d i m e t h i cone

A b i l Quat 3270, 3474

3272,

A b i l S-201

-

Go1 dschmi d t

Q u a t e r n i um-80

Go1 dschmi d t

D i m e t h i c o n e / s o d i um PG

Go1 dschmi d t

propyl dimethicone/thios u l f a t e copolymer A b i l Wax 2440

Behenoxy d i m e t h i c o n e

Go1 dschmi d t

A b i l Wax 9800

Stearyl dimethicone

Go1 dschmi d t

C e t y l d i m e t h i cone

Go1 dschmi d t

A b i 1 Wax 9801,

9840

A b i 1 WE-09

P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 - i s o s t e a r a t e / Go1 dschmi d t c e t y l dimethicone copolyol/ h e x y l 1a u r a t e Dimethicone

Go1 dschmi d t

Ethylene-vi n y l acetate copolymer

A1 1 ie d - S i g-

Acetulan

A c e t y l a t e d 1 a n o l i n a1 coho1

Amerchol

A c i d Phytosome

P h o s p h o l ip i d s

L i PO

Polyethylene

A1 1 ie d - S i g -

A c r i t a m e r 934

Carbomer 934

RITA

A c r i t a m e r 940

Carbomer 940

RITA

A c r i t a m e r 941

Carbomer 941

RITA

A b i l 100,

350

A - C C o p o l y m e r 400,

400A

A - C P o l y e t h y l e n e 9A, 61 7A

Acudyne 255, A c u l y n 22,

33

41%

617,

Rohm & Haas Rohm & Haas

350

Cosrnetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW M A T E R I A L S

SOURCE

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

Adogen MA-1 08

Dimethyl stearami ne

A d o l 52NF

C e t y l a1 c o h o l

Wi tco

F a t t y a1 c o h o l

Witco

A d o l 62,

66

ISP

A d v a n t a g e CP A e r o s i l 200

Fumed s i l i c a

Degussa

A g e n t 1829-50

Compl ex o f c h e m i c a l s

Stepan

A l d o MS

Glyceryl f a t t y acid ester

Lonza

A l d o MSA

G1 y c e r y l s t e a r a t e & PEG-1 00 stearate

Lonza

A1 f o n i c 141 2-A

Ammonium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

Vista

A1 kamide DC 212/S

A1 k a n o l ami de

Rhone-

A l k a m u l s GMS

Rhone-

A1 kamul s MM/M

Rhone-

A1 kamul s PSML-80

Rhone-

A1 oe-Con WG-40

A1 oe

Florida

A1 oe-Moi s t

A1 oe

Terry

A l o e Vera L i p o Quinone E x t r a c t

Terry

G i u l in i

A l u g e l OF30

A 1 umi num h y d r o x i d e

Amandul ine SG

H y d r o 1 y z e d sweet almond p r o t e i n RITA

Amaranth 85E123

D y e s t u f f s u s p e n s i o n 1%

BASF

Amerchol

Mineral o i l & l a n o l i n alcohol

Amerchol

Amine o x i d e

Stepan

Ammonyx GA-SO/GA-70PG

Amine o x i d e

Stepan

Ammonyx 4

Amine o x i d e

Stepan

Ammonyx 4B

Stearalkonium c h l o r i d e

Stepan

L-101

Ammonyx GA-70

PG

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

351

SOURCE

Amerlate P

Lanolin f a t t y acid/ester

Arnerchol

A m i l a n GST 40

DATEM

Go1 dschmi d t

Amphisol A

G i vaudan

Amphisol K

P o t a s s i um c e t y l p h o s p h a t e

G i vaudan

Amp homer

Octylacrylamide/acrylates/

Nat S t a r c h

butylaminoethyl methacryla t e copolymer Arnphomer 28-4910

Nat S t a r c h

AMP R e g u l a r , AMP-95

2-ami n o - 2 - m e t h y l -1 - p r o p a n o l

Angus

A m p h o l y t J B 130/K

Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne

Hul s

Amphosol CA,

CG

Stepan

A n t a r o x CO 530

Nonoxynol 6

ISP

Antil

141 L i q u i d

P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l & PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate Preservative

Goldschmidt

Antil

171

PEG-18 G l y c e r o l o l e a t e c o c o a t e

Goldschmidt

E t h y l e n e d i ami ne t e t r a a c e t ic a c i d sodium s a l t

Hoechst

A r is t o f 1ex A60%

VA/crotonates copolymer, is o p r o p y l a l c o h o l

Hoechst

A r l a c e l 60

S o r b i t a n monostearate

IC1

A r l a c e l 165

G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e & PEG-100 stearate

IC1

Arlacel

G1 y c e r o l monool e a t e

IC1

A r l a c e l 481

Glyceryl sorbitan oleostearate

IC1

A r l a c e l 989

PEG-7 h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l

IC1

Arlacel

Polyglycerin & sorbitol

IC1

A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h c Argonol

186

1689

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

352

RAW MAT E R IA LS

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

SOURCE

A r l a m o l HD

Isohexadecane

IC1

A r o s u r f 66-PE12

Surfactant

Sherex

Arquad T-50

Tallowtrimonium c h l o r i d e & is o p r o p y l a l c o h o l

Akzo

A v a n e l S-150

Anionic surfactant

PPG

Sodium C12-15 p a r e t h - 1 5

PPG

B i o t e r g e AS-40

Sodium C14-16 o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e

Stepan

B a l s a m HF-F-95-14276

Fragrance

Hogan

B e l s i l DMC 6032

Dimethicone c o p o l y o l

Wac k e r

Benol

White mineral o i 1

Witco

B e n t o n e EW

Hector; t e c l a y

Rheox

A v a n e l 5-150

CG

B e n t o n e Gel CAO,

SS71 R h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e

Stepan

B i o c a r e P o l y m e r HA-24 B i o c a r e SA

Rheox

A1 b u m e n / H y a l u r i c a c i d / D e x t r a n sulfate

B i r o n B-50

Stepan Rona

B i r o n ESQ

B i OC1

Rona

B1 a n d o l

Mineral o i l

W itco

B r i j 78

Steareth-20

IC1

B r i t o l 9NF

White mineral o i 1

W itco

B r o n i dox L / 1 5 Brooksome SOD

Brooks

Brookswax P

Brooks

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW M A T E R I A L S

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

353

SOURCE

Brown Red Shade 1 6 5 4 Brown Umber Shade 1985 B u r s t , RSD-10

Defoamer

H y d r o 1 abs

B u t y l Carbi t o 1

Solvent

Union Carb

Butyl Cellosolve

Sol v e n t

U n i o n Carb

C19-011 D & C Red #7 Ca Lake C19-022 D&C Red # 6 Ba Lake

Rona

Calamide C

Coconut d e r i v e d ami de

Pil o t

C a l a m i d e CWT

Super amide

P i 1o t

Calamide F

Modi f i ed

C a l a m i d e LL

L i q u i d 1 aurami de DEA

Calamide 0

Modi f i ed c o c o - 0 1 e i c d i e t h a n o l amide 100%

Cal b l e n d C 1 e a r

E t h e r s u l f a t e based c o n c e n t r a t e P i l o t

C a l b l end P e a r l

Pearlescent concentrate

ol eami de

Pi l o t

DEA

Pilot

-

C a l e n d u l a O i l CLR C a l f a x IOL-45

P i 1o t

Pi l o t

Richter D i s u l f o n a t e d a1 k y l d i p h e n y l

Pilot

ether C a l foam ALS-30

Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e 30%

Pilot

Cal foam EA-603

Ammoni um l a u r y l e t h e r s u l f a t e

Pi l o t

Cal foam ES-301, ES-302 Sodi um l a u r y l e t h e r s u l f a t e 30% P i l o t ES-303 C a l foam SLS-30

Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e 30%

P i 1o t

C a l foam T L S - 4 0

TEA l a u r y l s u l f a t e 40%

Pi l o t

C a l imu1 se PRS

I s o p r o p y l 1 i n e a r a1 k y l benzene s u l f o n a t e 90%

Pi l o t

C a l o x y l a t e N-9

Nonyl p h e n o l e t h o x y l a t e

Pilot

354

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MAT E R IALS

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

SOURCE

L i n e a r a1 k y l a t e s u l f o n a t e

P i 1o t

L i n e a r a1 k y l b e n z e n e s u l f o n a t e

Pil o t

L i n e a r a1 k y l a t e s u l f o n a t e

Pi l o t

C a l t a i ne C-35

Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne

Pi l o t

C a p t e x 300

F a t t y a c i d e s t e r (med.

C a r b o p o l ETD 2001, ETD 2020

Car bome r

Goodri c h

C a r b o p o l U l t r a 10

Carbomer

Goodri ch

C a r b o p o l 934

Carbomer 934

Goodr ic h

C a r b o p o l 940

Carbomer 940

Good r ic h

C a r b o p o l 941

Carbomer 941

Goodrich

C a r b o p o l 980

Carbomer 980

Good r ic h

C a r b o p o l 981

Carbomer 981

Goodrich

C a r b o p o l 1342

Carbomer 1342

Goodrich

C a r b o p o l 2984

Carbomer 2984

Goodr ic h

Carbowax E-8000

PEG-1 50

C a l s o f t AOS-40, Cal s o f t

F-90

L-40

C a l s o f t LAS-99,

T-60

chain)

C a r d r e T i 0 2 / Z - C o a t / O c t y l m e t h o x y c i nnamate D i s p e r s i on Carnation

Mineral O i l

Capital

Cardre W itco

Carnauba Wax

Keumen

Carnauba #1 Y e l l o w

Keunen

C a r r o t t O i l CLR

Richter

C a r s i m i de SAL-7

Laurami de DEA

Lonza

Carsmol ALS

Ammoni um 1a u r y l s u l f a t e

Lonza

C a s t o r w a x MP80

Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l

CasChem

C e l l o s i ze

Hydroxyethylcel l u l o s e

Union Carb

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATER1ALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

355

SOURCE

C e l l o s i z e QP 30,00OH, QP 52,000H

Hydroxyethyl c e l l ulose

Union Carb

C e l q u a t H-100,

P o l y q u a t e r n i um-4

National

P o l y q u a t e r n i urn-10

National

L-200

C e l q u a t SC-230M, sc-24oc

Richter

Cerarni de Cornpl ex CLR Ceraphyl-368

Octyl palmitate

ISP/Van Dyk

C e r a p h y l 494

Emu1 s i f i e r

ISP/Van Dyk

C e r a p h y l 868

Ernoll i e n t

ISP/Van Dyk

Cerasynt I P

Emu1 s i f ie r

ISP/Van Dyk Keunen

C e r e s i ne Wax 130/135 Cetiol B

E m o l l ie n t e s t e r s

C e t i o l HE

PEG-7

C e t i o l 3600

E m o l l ie n t e s t e r s

Henkel

C e t i o l LC

Emol 1 ie n t e s t e r s

Henkel

C e t i o l MM

Myri sty1 myri s t a t e

Henkel

C e t i o l PGL

Emollient esters

Henkel

C e t i o l SN

Cetearyl

Henkel

Cetiol V

Decyl o l e a t e

Henkel

C e t i o l 868

Octyl stearate

Henkel

glyceryl

cocoate

isononanoate

Henkel Henkel

C e t y l s t e a r y l A1 c o h o l

Keunen

C e t y l s t e a r y l A1 c o h o l 1618

Proctor&

Charnorni 1 e O i 1

Dragoco

C i t r n o l 316 TM C i t r o f 1e x - 2

Triethyl citrate

M o r f 1 ex

356

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATER1ALS

SOURCE

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

C1 a r i s k i n

Yeast e x t r a c t

RITA

Clearlan

Lanol i n

Henkel

C l o i s o n n e ' B l u e Flambe 6502: C o s m e t i c p e a r l p o w d e r s C l o i s o n n e ' C e r i s e Flambe 5502 C l o i s o n n e ' Monarch G o l d 233X

CMC,

CMC 7MF

CO-1895

Carboxymethyl c e l l u l o s e

Mearl

Aqua1 on

S t e a r y l a1 c o h o l

Coconut F r a g r a n c e O i l

Aroma Tech

C o l l a g e n KD

GFN

C o l l a g e n S e c o l a n BA

Secol

C o l l ami n o Complex 40

C o l l agen ami no a c i d s

Brooks

C o l 1a s o l

S o l u b l e c o l 1agen

Croda

C o l o r o n a Copper C o l o r o n a Red G o l d C o l o r o n a Red Brown

Pearlescent pigments

Rona

Comperlan KD

Cocamide DEA

Henkel

C o r o n a PNL

Lanol i n

Croda

C o s m e t i c Tan C33-130

I r o n oxide

Sun

Cosmowax K

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l / c e t e a r e t h 20

Croda

C r e m e r o l HMG

Surfactant

Hul s

Cremophor A6

Ceteareth-6/stearyl

Cremophor A25

C e t e a r e t h 25

BASF

Ethoxylated castor o i l

BASF

Cremophor RH40

Surfactant

BASF

Crill 6

Sorbitan ester

Croda

C r o d a c o l C-70

C e t y l a1 c o h o l

Croda

Cremophor

EL

alcohol

Hul s

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATER IA LS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

C r o d a c o l C-95

C e t y l a1 c o h o l

Croda

C r o d a c o l CS-50

C e t e a r y l a1 c o h o l

Croda

C r o d a f o s CES

Cetearyl alcohol/cetearyl phosphate

Croda

C r o d a f o s N3 N e u t r a l

DEA o l e t h - 3 - p h o s p h a t e

Croda

C r o d a f o s N10 N e u t r a l

DEA o l e t h - 1 0 - p h o s p h a t e

Croda

C r o d a f o s SG

PPG-5-ceteth-10-phosphate

Croda

Crodamol GTCC

C a p r y l i c / c a p r ic t r ig l y c e r ide

Croda

Crodamol IPM

Fatty acid ester

Croda

Crodamol OPG

Octyl pel argonate

Croda

Crodamol OS

Octyl stearate

Croda

Crodamol PMP

PPG-2 m y r i s t y 1 e t h e r p r o p i o n a t e Croda

Crodamol PTC

P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l t e t r a c a p r y l a t e l Croda caprate

Crodasome CM-Glucan

Sodi um c a r b o x y m e t h y l B - g l ucan

Croda

C r o d e s t a SL-40

Sucrose cocoate

Croda

Cromoi s t CM-G1 u c a n , Cromoi s t GM-G1 u c a n

C a r b o x y m e t h y l B-g1 u c a n

Croda Croda

C r o m o i s t HYA Croquat M

Cationic protein derivative

C r o s i 1 k Powder C r o t e i n ADW

Croda Croda

I s o s t e a r o y l h y d r o l y z e d wheat protein

Croda

S t e a r t r i moni um h y d r o x y e t h y l h y d r o 1 y z e d c o l 1 agen

Croda

C r o t e i n SPO

H y d r o 1 y z e d c o l 1 agen

Croda

C r o v o l A-40

Modi f i ed e t h o x y l a t e d o i 1

Croda

Crotein

Q

357

358

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS Crovol A-70

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N PEG-60 almond g l y c e r i d e s

SOURCE Croda Croda

Croda M40 C r o v o l PK-40

M o d i f i e d e t h o x y l a t e d o i 1s

Croda

C u t i na GMS

Glyceryl stearate

Henkel

DC Q2-5220

D i m e t h i c o n e c o p o l yo1

Dow C o r n i n g

DC S i 1 ic o n e 200/350 c t s D i m e t h i c o n e

Dow C o r n i n g

DC-190

D i m e t h i c o n e c o p o l yo1

Dow C o r n i n g

DC 2 0 0 / 2 0 0 c s

Dimethicone

Dow C o r n i n g

DC 345 F l u i d

C y c l o m e t h i cone

Dow C o r n i n g

DC 556

Phenyl t r i m e t h i cone

Dow C o r n i n g

DC 929 S i 1 i c o n e

Amodimethicone & nonoxynol-10 & t a l 1o w t r i moni um c h l o r i d e

Dow C o r n i n g

D e f e n s i ne

Wheat germ e x t r a c t

RITA

Dehymuls F

Henkel

Dehymul s PGPH

Henkel

Dehyquart E

Hydroxycetyl hydroxyethyl dimonium c h l o r i d e

Henkel

D e h y q u a r t LT

L a u r t r i moni um c h l o r i de

Henkel

D e h y t o n AB 30

C o c o - b e t a i ne

Henkel

Dehyton K

Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne

Henkel

Dentphos K

D i c a l c i um p h o s p h a t e

Hoechst Keunen

D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax Dermacryl, D e r m a c r y l LT

S k i n c a r e polymer

National

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATER1ALS Dermal c a r e

SOURCE

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

NI

Dermacryl-79

359

Skin c a r e polymer

Rhone-Poul

S k i n c a r e polymer

National

D e r v a c i d 31 55 Dimethyl Ether

DuPont

D i o c t y l Adipate & Octyl Stearate & Octyl Palmitate

W i ckhen

D i smut in-BT

Pentapharm

Superoxide d i smutase

Roche

DL-Pant h e n o l

DNS Compl e t e c h MBAC-DS

Chemicals complex

L i PO

Dowanol TPM

Tripropylene g l y c o l methyl ether

Dow

Dow C o r n i n g F l u i d 200/350 c s .

D i m e t h i cone

Dow C o r n i n g

Dow C o r n i n g Q 2 - 5 2 2 0

D i m e t h i cone cop01 yo1

Dow C o r n i n g

Dow C o r n i n g S i l i c o n e 245

Dimethicone

Dow C o r n i n g

Dow C o r n i n g 190,

Dimethicone c o p o l y o l

Dow C o r n i n g

193

Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d D i m e t h i c o n e

Dow C o r n i n g

Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d , C y c l o m e t h i c o n e 345 F l u i d

Dow C o r n i n g

Dow C o r n i n g 3225C F l u i d

Dow C o r n i n g

Dow C o r n i n g 7224

Dow C o r n i n g

Dowicide A

A n t i m i c r o b i a1 a g e n t

Dow

D o w i c i l 200

P r e s e r v a t ive

Dow Hoffman-La

D-Panthenol D-Panthenol

USP

D-Panthenol

50P

Drakeol-9

BAS F P a n t h e n o l & p r o p y l ene g l y c o l

BAS F

Mineral o i l

Penreco

360

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Drakeol-21

Mineral o i l

Penreco

Drewpol 3-1-0,

Emulsifier

Stepan

10-10-0

Dry-Flo PC

Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate National

DV-3284

Sodium isethionate ( 5 5 2 )

DuPont

Dymel A , HFC-152a Dynaceri n 660

Rhone-Poul

Oleyl erucate

Huls

BAS F

Edeta BD Elastosol Animal Collagen

&

Elastin

Croda

Elefac 1-205

Octyldodecyl neopentaoate

Bernel

Elfacos GT282S

Hydrogenated talloweth-60 myristyl glycol

Akzo

Flhibi n

Soy protejn

Pentapharm

Emerest 1723

Ester

Henkel

Emeres t 23 16

Ester

Henkel

Emerest 2407

Glyceryl stearate SE

Henkel

Emerest 2452

Ester

Henkel

Emerest 2486

Ester

Henkel

Emerson-132

Henkel

Emerwax 1266

Henkel

Empicol TI 40t

Anionic surfactant

Albright

Einpigen BE

Lauryl betaine

Albright

Empilan EGMS

Surfactant

A 1 br igh t

Empilan E2502

Cocamide DEA surfactant

Albright

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATER I ALS

361

SOURCE

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Empi I a n LDE

Surfactant

A1 b r i g h t

Emsorb 2500

Sorbitan ester

Henkel

Steareth-7&stearyl alcohol& steareth-10

Go1dschmi d t

Emul gade 1 O O N I Emul gade 1 O O O N I Emul g a t o r 21 55

Keunen

Emul s i f y i n g Wax Emul s i on 25-3800

N a t io n a l

(50%)

Emulsogen EL

PEG-36 c a s t o r o i l

Hoechst

Emulsogen LP

01 e t h - 5

Hoechst

Ervol

White mineral o i l

Witco

E s c a l o l 507

O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA

I S P Van Dyk

E s c a l o l 557

Sunscreen

I S P Van Dyk

E s c a l o l 567

Benzophenone-3

I S P Van Dyk

Cosmetic e s t e r

Uni chema

E thocel

Ethyl c e l l ulose

Dow

Ethoquad 0 / 1 2

PEG-2 01 eammoni um/i s o p r o p y l alcohol

Armak

E u m u l g i n VL 75

Cosmet ic emu1 s i f i e r o/w

Henkel

E u s o l e x 232/232TS/ 6300

Sunscreen

EM

Eutanol G

O c t y l dodecanol

Henkel

E u x y l K-400

Cosmetic p r e s e r v a t i v e

C a l gon

Ewal an ODE-50

Octyldodecyl l a n o l a t e

Wagner

E s t o l EHP/EHP 1462

1543/

E x t r a p o n Chamomi l e S p e c i a1

Dragoco

362

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW M A T E R I A L S

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

Extrapon W i t c h Hazel E x t r a p o n e 3 S p e c i a1

SOURCE Dragoco

Chemical complex

Dragoco

E x t r a k t 52

Z s c h i mmer

FG-10 A n t i foam S i m e t h i c o n e Emu1 s i on

Dow C o r n i n g

F i n s o v SI3

F i netex

F i n s o v TN

C12-15 a1 k y l b e n z o a t e

F i r m i g Liposome

F i netex Col l a b o r a t

F i t o b r o s i de

W a t e r / g l y c o l ip i ds/phospholipids/carbohydrates

Pentapharm

F i toderm

S q u a l ane

Centerchem

F1 amenco S u p e r p e a r l 1 2 0 C c o s m e t i c s p i gment

Mearl

F l e x a n 130

Sodium p o l y s t y r e n e s u l f o n a t e

National

Fluilan

Liquid lanolin

Croda

Foraha O i l

Keunen

Fragrance

B l a c k D r a g o n I 1 0/23511

Dragoco

Fragrance

C h i a r a 0/238927

Dragoco

Fragrance

S o l a r a 0/227632

Dragoco

Fragrance

PCV 1677

G i vaudan

Fragrance

R i v a l i a 0/221212

Dragoco

Fragrance

T i m b u k t u 0/186901

Dragoco

F r a g r a n c e Bel 1e f r e s h

Haarman

F r a g r a n c e 5-5390

Bel 1 116.830

Fragrance

Limobain A .

Fragrance

Men a t S p o r t 61569

Haarman Haarman

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

363

SOURCE

F r a g r a n c e Q4696

Quest

F r a g r a n c e #S-5704

Fine Flav

F r a g r a n c e T e n d r e s s e 754188

Haarman &

F r a g r a n c e #99189 "Twi s t e r "

Croon

G-4909 G a f q u a t HS-100

C a t i o n i c copolymer

ISP

Gamma O r z a n o l

Keunen

G a n t r e z ES225, E5425

V i n y l e t h e r polymer

ISP

G e l i t a Sol C

H y d r o 1 y z e d c o l 1 agen

D t . Gelati n

G e l w h i t e GP

White m o n t m o r r i l o n i t e

ECC

Gemstone M o o n s t o n e GO04 C o s m e t i c p e a r l powder

Mearl

Genagen CAB

Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne

Hoechst

Genamin CTAC

C e t r i moni um c h l o r i de

Hoechst

Genamin DSAC

Distearyldimonium c h l o r i d e

Hoechst

Genamin KSL

PEG-5 s t e a r y l ammonium l a c t a t e

Hoechst

Genapol AMG

Magnesium PEG-3 c o c a m i d e s u l f a t e H o e c h s t

Genapol L - 3

Laureth-3

Hoechst

Genapol LRO L i q u i d , Paste

Sodi um 1 a u r e t h s u l f a t e

Hoechst

Genapol TSM

PEG-3 d i s t e a r a t e , 1a u r e h s u l f a t e

Hoechst

Genapol Z R O L i q u i d

Sodi urn l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

Hoechst

Cosmet c p r e s e r v a t iv e

Sutton

s o d i um

G e n e r o l 1 2 2 , 122E-10 Germaben I 1

364

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

SOURCE

Germaben 1 1 - E

Cosmetic p r e s e r v a t i v e

ISP S u t t o n

Germall I 1

D i azo1 id i n y l u r e a

ISP S u t t o n

G e r m a l l 115

Imidazol i d i n y l urea

ISP S u t t o n

Geropon AS-200

Rhone- Pou 1

Geropon SBFA-30

Rhone-Poul

Geropon TC-42

Rhone-Poul

Gorgonian E x t r a c t

Butylene g l y c o l / s e a whip e x t r a c t L i p 0

Glucam E-10

Methyl g l uceth-10

Amerc h o 1

Glucam E-20

Methyl gluceth-20

Amercho 1

G1 ucam E-20 D i s t e a r a t e M e t h y l g l u c o s e s e s q u i s t e a r a t e

Amerchol

G1 ucamate DOE-1 20

PEG-120 m e t h y l g l u c o s e d i o l e a t e Amerchol

G l u c a m a t e SSE-20

PEG-20 m e t h y l g l u c o s e s e s q u i stearate

G l u c a t e DO

Methyl glucose d i o l e a t e

Ame r c h o 1

G l u c a t e SS

Methyl glucose sesqui s t e a r a t e

Ame r c h o 1

-

Ame r c h o 1

G1 ycami 1

A1 1 i e d - S i g

G l y c e r o l Monostearate

Keunen

G l y c e r o x HE

PEG-7 g l y c e r y l c o c o a t e

Croda

G1 y d a n t

DMDM h y d a n t o i n

Lonza

G 1 y d a n t P1 u s

DMDM h y d a n t o i n

Lonza

G1 y d a n t 40/700

DMDM h y d a n t o i n

Lonza

Trade -Named Raw Materials

RAW MATER IALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

H a i r M o n s t e r U800 025 F r a g r a n c e

365

SOURCE dram F r a g -

Hampene Na2T

C h e l a t ing a g e n t

Hampshire

Hampene Na3T

Chel a t i n g a g e n t

Hampshire

Hamamel i s W a t e r

Witch hazel

Dragoco

Hamp-ene 1 0 0

T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA c h e l a t i n g a g e n t H a m p s h i r e

Hampol O L

Chel a t in g a g e n t

Hampshi r e

HDK N20

H i g h l y d i s p e r s e d si 1 ic i c a c i d

Wacker-

H . E . Chamomi 1e

Anthemi s n o b i 1 i s (Chamomi 1e extract)

PJ Cosmet-

Ginseng e x t r a c t

PJ Cosmet-

Propylene g l ycol i soceteth-3 acetate

Bernel

H.E.

Ginseng

H e t e s t e r PHA

Hexanedi o l B e h e n n y l Beeswax

Keunen

H e x e t i d i ne

Angus

H i s p a g e l 200 H o e c h s t P o t a s s um S o r b a t e

Hoechst

H o e c h s t S o r b i c Ac d

Hoechst

H o m b i t e c L5

S a c h e t 1eben

T i t a n i um d i o x i d e

Hoech st

H o s t a c e r i n CG Hostaceri n DGI

P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 s e s q u i i s o s t e a r a t e Hoechst

H o s t a c e r i n DGL

P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-10 l a u r a t e

Hoechst

H o s t a c e r i n DGMS

Polyglyceryl-2 stearate

Hoechst

H o s t a c e r i n DGS

Polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4

Hoechst

H o s t a c e r i n T-3

Ceteareth-3

H o s t a c e r i n WO

Stearate

Hoechst Hoechst

366

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

SOURCE

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

H o s t a c e r i n WOL

Chemical c o m p l e x

Hoechst

H o s t a p h a t KL340N

T r i l a u r e t h - 4 phosphate

Hoechst

H o s t a p h a t KML

Laureth-4 phosphate, p o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 , sesqui s o s t e a r a t e

Hoechst

H o s t a p o n CT-Paste

S o d i urn m e t h y l c o c o y l t a u r a t e

Hoechst

H o s t a p o n KCG

S o d i urn c o c o y l g l u t a m a t e

Hoechst

H o s t a p o n SCI, S C I D

Sod um c o c o y l i s e t h i o n a t e

Hoechst Huber

H u b e r s o r b 600 H y a s o l -BT

Sod um h y a l u r o n a t e

Pentapharm

H y d r o f o l A c i d 1655CG

F a t t y a c i d and g l y c e r i d e s

Sherex

H y d r o 1 y z e d Wheat P r o t e i n

VegeTech

H y d r o s o y 2000/SF

Croda

Hydrovit o n

Dragoco

Chemicals complex

Croda

H y d r o t r i t i c u m QL H y d r o t r i t i cum WAA

Wheat ami n o a c i d s

Croda

H y d r o t r i t i c u m 2000

Wheat p r o t e i n h y d r o l y z a t e s

Croda Keunen

Hydroxy P o l y e s t e r Hypan QT-100

P o l y q u a t e r n i urn-31

L i po

Hypan SA 100H Hypan SR 150H Hypure N

Sodium h y p o c h l o r i t e ,

10% s o l n

Olin

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

367

SOURCE

I g e p a l CO-630

Nonoxynol

ISP

Immucell

G1 y c o p r o t e i ns

Pentapharm

I m w i t o r 370

Glyceryl stearate c i t r a t e

Hul s

I m w i t o r 375

Glyceryl citrate/lactate/ 1 ino1 e a t e / o l e a t e

Huls

I m w i t o r 377

Glyceryl laurate/ci t r a t e / lactate

Hul s

I m w i t o r 780K

Isostearyl di gl yceryl

I m w i t o r 900

G1 y c e r y l s t e a r a t e

Hul s

I m w i t o r 928

G1 y c e r y l c o c o a t e

Hul s

Incrocas-40

PEG-40 c a s t o r o i l

Croda

I n c r o m e c t a n t LAMEA

A c e t a m i d e MEA/Lactami de MEA

Croda

I n c r o m i d e LR

Laurami de DEA

Croda

Incromine Oxide C

Cocami d o p r o p y l ami ne o x i de

Croda

I n c r o n a m 30

Cocamidopropyl b e t a i n e

Croda

I n c r o q u a t B e h e n y l HE

Behenamidopropyl h y d r o x y e t h y l d i m o n i urn c h l o r i d e

Croda

s u c c i n a t e Hul s

I n c r o q u a t B e h e n y l TMS B e h e n t r i m o n i u m m e t h o s u l f a t e / c e t e a r y l a1 coho1

Croda

I n c r o q u a t CTC-30

C e t r imon i um c h l o r i de

Croda

I n c r o q u a t HO-80PG

D i o e l e o y l ami d o e t h y l h y d r o x y e t h y l m o n i um m e t h o s u l f a t e

Croda

I n c r o q u a t SDQ-25

Q u a t e r n a r y c o s m e t i c c o n d i t i o n e r Croda

Iso-Adi pate

D i isopropyl adi pate

Dragoco

I s o l a n DO

M e t h y l g l ucose d i o l e a t e

Go1 dschm d l

I s o l a n GI-34

Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate

Go1 dschm d i

I s o l a n GO-33

Polyglyceryl-3 oleate

Go1 dschm d l

368

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

SOURCE

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

Isopropyl Isostearate

U n i chema

Isostearic Acid

U n i chema

I v a r l a n AWS

PPG-12 PEG-65 l a n o l i n o i l

Brooks

I r g a s a n DP300

Triclosan bacteriostat

C i ba-Gei gy

J a g u a r C14S

Guar h y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m c h l o r i de

Rhone-Poul

J a g u a r C-162

Guar gum

Rhone-Poul

J a g u a r HP-60

Hydroxypropyl guar

Rhone-Poul

Jordapon ACI-30

Ammoni urn c o c o y l is e t h i o n a t e

PPG

J o r d a p o n CI-UP

S o d i um c o c o y l i s e t h i o n a t e

P PG

Jordapon CI-60/ CI-75

S o d i um c o c o y l is e t h i o n a t e / stearic acid

PPG

Keunen

K80-D22 K a o l i n 2457

E . Merck

Karion F Liquid K a t h o n CG/ CG100

M e t h y l c h l o r o i s o t h i a z o l inone/ m e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i none

Rohm & Haas

K e l t r o l CG-T/F

X a n t h a n gum

Kelco Croda

Kerasol K e r a - T e i n 1000 AS

Ethyl ester o f hydrolyzed keratin

Maybroo k

Kessco C e t y l A l c o h o l

Stepan

Kessco EGMS

Stepan

Kessco E t h y l ene G1 y c o l D i s t e a r a t e

Stepan

Kessco GMS-Pure

Stepan

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW M A T E R I A L S

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

SOURCE

Kessco GMS S . E . / A . S .

Stepan

Kessco ICs

Stepan

Kessco IPM

Stepan

Kessco I P P

Stepan

Kessco O c t y l I s o n o n a n o a t e

Stepan

Kessco PEG 400 D i l a u r a t e

Stepan

Kessco PEG 400 DL

Stepan

Kessco PEG 6000 DS

Stepan

Kessco-653

Fatty ester

K e s t e r Wax 82

369

Stepan Keunen

K i 11 it o 1

Butylene glycol/glycerin/chlorophenesin/rnethylparaben

Col l a b o r a

K1 e a r o l

White mineral o i l

Witco

Klucel G

Hydroxypropyl c e l l ulose

Aqua1 o n

K u i k u i Nut O i l

O i l s Aloha

L a c t i1

Cherni c a l s c o m p l e x

Lactomi de

W a t e r / p h o s p h o l ip i d s / c e r a r n i des

Go1dschrni d t

Lameforrn T G I Lanapene

L a n a e t ex

Lanesta S

Isopropyl myri s t a t e

Lanaetex

Laneto-50

PEG-75 1a n o l i n

RITA

Lanette-0

Cetearyl alcohol

Henkel

L a n e t t e 16

Cetyl alcohol

Hen k e 1

Lanocerin

L a n o l i n wax

Arnerchol

370

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW M A T E R I A L S

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

SOURCE

L a n o l 37T

Seppi c

L a n o l i n USP

RITA

L a n o l i n USP X-TRA

RITA

Deo

Lasemul 92AE L a t h a n o l LAL

Foami ng a g e n t

Stepan

Lexami ne S-13

Cationic emulsifi er

Ino1 e x

Lexemu 1

Cosmet i c emu1 s i f ie r

I n o l ex

Lexemul 5 1 5

Cosmetic e m u l s i f i e r

Inolex

M

Methyl paraben

Inolex

Lexgard P

Propyl paraben

Inolex

L i p e x 102

Shea b u t t e r

L i po

Lexgard

pex 1 0 6

I 1 1 ipe b u t t e r

p e x 203

Mango k e r n a l o i l

p e x 205

Canola o i l

Lipocol C

Cetyl alcohol

L i p o c o l C-10

L i po

L i p o c o l 0/95

L i PO

Lipocol S-2

L i PO

L i poco1 S - 1 O/S-20

Poloxyethylene f a t t y ether

L i PO

L i po F r u i t A c i d Complex

G l y c o l i c a c i d (and) tamarind extract

Lip0

L i pogard

S q u a l ane ( a n d ) U b i q u i none

Pentapharm

L i p 0 GMS 450

Glyceryl stearate

L i PO

L i p o l a n 31

Lanolin derivative

L i po

L i p o l PG 855

L i PO

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATER I ALS

SOURCE

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

L i pomul s e 165

G1 y c e r y l stearate/PEG-100 s t eara te

L i po

L i p o n a t e DPC-6/GC

Fatty ester

L i PO

L i p o n a t e IPM

Fatty ester

L i PO

L i p o n a t e IPP

Fatty ester

L i po

L i p o n a t e NPGC-2

Neopentylg l y c o l d i c a p r y l a t e / dicaprate

L i po

Fatty ester

L i po

L i p o n a t e TDTM

Fatty ester

L ipo

L i p o n i c EG-1

G1 y c e r e t h - 2 6

L i PO

Liponate

SPS

L i PO

L i p o p e a r l Green L i p o p e g 6000 DS

PEG-150 d i s t e a r a t e

L i po

L i poquat R

F a t t y a c i d amide e t h o s u l f a t e

L i po

L i p o s o r b L-20

Sorbitan ester

L i PO L i po

Lip0 Stearic Acid L i p o v o l MOS-70

Natural vegetable o i 1

L i po

L i p o v o l PAL

Natural vegetable o i 1

L i PO

L i p o v o l SAF

S a f f 1ower o i 1

L i PO

L i p o v o l SES

Sesame o i l

L i PO

Lipowax D

C e t e a r y l a1 coho1 / c e t e a r e t h - 2 0

L i PO

Lipowax G

Stearyl alcohol/ceteareth-20

L i PO

Lipowax N I

Self-emulsifying

wax

L i PO

Lipowax P

E m u l s i f y i n g wax,

NF

L i PO

Liquapar O i 1

P r e s e r v a t iv e

Sutton

Lovocryl-47

Octylacrylamide/acrylates

National

butylami noethyl methacrylate copolymer

371

372

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATER IALS Lunacera

M

SOURCE

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

H y d r o g e n a t e d m i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e wax H B F u l l e r

L u v i m e r Low VOC

BASF

L u v i m e r 360

BASF

L u v i m e r 1OOP

BASF

L u v i q u a t Mono CP

P o l y q u a t e r n i um

BAS F

L u v i s k o l K30/K90/ VA73E/VA73W/VA641

PV P

BASF

L u v i t o l EHO

Cetearyl octanoate

BASF

Macademi a N u t O i 1

O i 1s A l o h a

Macol C P S j l 2 4

Polyoxyethylene f a t t y ether

P PG

Mafo CAB

Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e

PPG

M a f o CSB-50

C o c a m i d o p r o p y l h y d r o x y s u l t a i n e PPG

Magnabri t e

S t a b i 1 iz i n g , s u s p e n d i n g a g e n t

Magnesi um S t e a r a t e - D

AmCol l o i d W itco

Mapeg EGMS

G1 y c o l s t e a r a t e

PPG

Mapeg 6000 DS

PEG-150 d i s t e a r a t e

P PG

Maprosyl 30

Stepan

M a r l i n a t CM 1 0 0 / 8 0

Laureth-11 c a r b o x y l i c a c i d

Hul s

M a r l in a t 2 4 2 / 2 8

Sodium + l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

Hul s

Mar 1 ip a l 1618 / 2 5

Ceteareth-25

Hul s

Masi 1 SF-V F l u i d

C y c l omet h i cone

PPG

M a s i l 280

Dimethicone c o p o l y o l

P PG

M a s i l 656 F l u i d

S i 1 ic o n e

PPG

Maypon 4C

Potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed c o l 1agen

Ino1 ex

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

SOURCE

Mazami de CMEA

Cocami de CMEA

PPG

Mazami de JT-128

Cocamide DEA

PPG

Mazami de SS-10

Soyamide DEA

PPG

Mazox CAPA

Cocami d o p r o p y l ami ne o x i de

PPG

MEA B o r a t e and MIPA B o r a t e

Mona

M e a r l i t e GBU

S y n t h e t i c p e a r l pigment

Mear 1

M e a r l m i c a CF/SVA

C o s m e t i c m i c a powder

Mear 1

M e a r l t a l c TCA

Talc

Mear 1

M e d i a l a n LD

S o d i um 1 a u r o y l s a r c o s i n a t e

Hoechst

M e r q u a t 550

P o l y q u a t e r n i urn-7

C a l gon

M e t h o c e l E/E4M/ K1 OOLV/40-100

H y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h y l c e l l ul o s e

Dow

M i c a M-RP

Rona

Microcel E

Rona

M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e W445 Wax

W itco

M i c r o T i t a n i um D i o x i d e MT-500B

Ti t a n i urn d i o x i d e

M i c r o w h i t e 100

T r i -K

ECC

M i g l y o l Gel B

Caprylic/capric triglyceride/ s t e a r a l k o n i urn h e c t o r i t e / p r o p y l ene c a r b o n a t e

Hul s

M i g l yo1 81 0 / 8 1 2

Capryl i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e

Hul s

M i g l y o l 818

Caprylic/capric/linoleic

Hul s

t r i g l y c e r i de

M i g l y o l 829

Capryl i c/capri c/di g l y c e r y l succinate

Hul s

M i g l y o l 840

Propylene g l y c o l d i c a p r y l a t e

Hul s

M i 1f o i 1 E x t r a c t

373

K e l isema

374

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW M A T E R I A L S M i n e r a l C o l 1 o i d BP

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N M o n t m o r i 11o n i t e

SOURCE ECC A m e r i c a

M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l

Amer c h o 1

M i nosi 1

Pride Solv

M i r a c a r e BC-IO

Rhone-Poul

M i r a c a r e CT-100

Rhone-Poul

M i r a c a r e MPC

Rhone-Poul

M i r a c a r e MS-1

Rhone-Poul

M i r a n o l BT

Surfactant

Rhone-Poul

M i r a n o l C2M-SF70%

Cocoamphocarboxyglycinate

Rhone-Poul

M i r a n o l C2M-SF Conc.

D i s o d i um cocoamphodi p r o p i o n a t e

Rhone-Poul

Surfactant

Rhone-Poul

Modul an

A c e t y l a t e d 1 a n o l in

Amerchol

Monafax 160

Phosphate e s t e r

Mona

Monafax 1 2 1 4

Deceth-4-phosphate

Mona

Monamate CPA-40

M i I d anionic detergent

Mona

Monamate LNT-40

M i l d anionic detergent

Mona

Monamid CMA

Cocamide MEA

Mona

Monami d 150-ADD

Cocamide DEA

Mona

Monamid 716

Laurami d e DEA

Mona

Monamid 1089

Super f a t t y a l k a n o l a m i d e

Mona

M i ranol

U1 t r a

Mona

Monamul s 60-35C Monaquat TG

Quaternary p h o s p h o l i p i d cpd.

Mona

M o n a t e r g e 11 64

S o d i um 1 a u r y l s u l f a t e / d i s o d i urn 1a u r y l s u l f o s u c c i n a t e

Mona

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

SOURCE

M o n a t e r i c CM-36s

M i l d amphoteric e m u l s i f i e r

Mona

M o n a t e r i c 805

D i s o d i um cocoamphodi a c e t a t e / d i s o d i u m cocami do MIPA-su1 f o succinate

Mona

M o n a t e r i c 951A

M i I d amphoteric e m u l s i f i e r

Mona

Monawet MO-75E

W e t t i ng agent

Mona

Monazol ine CY

I-hydroxyethyl-2-capryl azo1 in e

imid-

Mona

Montan OV 68

Seppi c

MPC-Mi 1 k P e p t ide Compl ex

Richter

M-Pyrol

n-Methyl

P y r r o l i done

M u l g o f e n ON-870 M y a c i d e SP

375

ISP Rhone- Pou 1

2,4-di clorobenzyl alcohol

Inolex

M y r j 52

Polyoxyethylene stearate

IC1

M y r j 525

PEG-40 s t e a r a t e

IC1

M y r j 59

PEG-100 s t e a r a t e

IC1

M y r i t o l 318

Na-Hyal u r o n a t e S e l u r o n Sol u t i on

Secol

Natipide I1

Natterrnan

N a t r o s o l P1 u s 330 CS/ H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e 250HHR/250HHR CS/ 250HHX/250HR/250HR CS

Aqua1 on

N a t u r a l Beeswax

Rita

Naturechem EGHS

Castor o i 1 d e r i v a t i v e

CasChem

376

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

SOURCE

N a t u r e c h e m GMHS

Castor o i l d e r i v a t i v e

CasChem

N a t u r e c h e m OHS

C o s m e t i c in g r e d i e n t

CasChem

Neobee M-5

Caprylic/capric

Stepan

Neobee M-20

Cosmetic o i l

Stepan

Neodol 2 3 - 6 . 5

C12-Cl3 1 in e a r p r i m a r y a l c o h o l ethoxyl ate

She1 1

Neo-He1 iopan AV

O c t y l m e t h o x y c i nnamate

Haarman

Neo-He1 iopan BB

Benzophenone-3

Haarman

Neo-He1 iopan,

P h e n y l b e n z i m i d a z o l e sul f o n i c acid

Haarman

Neo-He1 i opan MA

Menthyl a n t h t h r a n i l a t e

Haarman

Neo-He1 iopan OS

O c t y l s a l ic y 1 a t e

Haarman

Neo-He1 iopan E1000

Isoamyl-p-methoxycinnamate

Haarman

N e o - H e l i o p a n 303

O c t o c r y l ine

Haarman

N-Hance 3000

C a t i o n i c guar

Aqualon

N im lesterol D

Mineral o i l

Ma 1mst rom

N i n o l 30-LL

A1 k y l o l ami des

Stepan

N i n o l 40-CO

Cocamide DEA

Stepan

N i n o l 55-LL

A 1 k y l o l ami de

Stepan

N i n o l 96-SL

A1 k y l o l ami de

Stepan

Hydro

N i pa

N i p a c i d e PX Nipagin M

triglyceride

Methyl paraben

N i p a g u a r d BPX

N i pa

N i pa

N i p a g u a r d DMDMH

DMDM h y d a n t o i n

N i pa

N i pasol

Propyl paraben

N i pa

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATER1ALS N ipastat

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N M i c r o b i o c i de

SOURCE N i pa N i pa

Nuosept C Nutrilan L

Hydrolyzed collagen

Henkel

Octopi r o x

P i r o c t o n e a1 ami ne

Hoech s t

Oh1 an

H y d r o x y l a t e d 1ano i n

Ame r c ho

ISP

Omnirez 2000 Opati n t

377

FD&C a1 umi num 1a k e c o n c e n t r a t e

Col o r c o n

Orange Wax

Keunen

O r g a s o l 2002D N a t Cos N y l o n - 1 2

Atochem

O r g a s o l 2002UD N a t Cos N y l o n - 1 2

Atochem

O x e t a l V D 20

Zschimmer

Oxynex LM

Anti oxi dant

Z s c h i mmer

Oxynex 2004

Antioxidant

Z s c h i mmer

Oxypon 2145

Z s c h i mmer

Oyster Nut O i l

Keunen

O z o k e r i t e Wax

I n t Wax

O z o k e r i t e Wax

Keunen

O z o k e r i t e Wax

Ross

O z o k e r i t e W h i t e 170 O z o k e r i t e 64W O z o k e r i t e #77W O z o k e r i t e 1 6 0 / 64

Keunen

O z o k e r i t e 1 6 4 / 70

Keunen

37%

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

RAW MATERIALS

SOURCE

P a n a l ane

Hydrogenated i s o b u t y l e n e

Amoco

P a n a l ane L-14E

Hydrogenated i s o b u t y l e n e

Amoco

Paraffin O i l

Mineral o i l

Merck

P a r a f f i n 150/155

Keunen

P a r a f f i n 160/165

Keunen G i vaudan

P a r s o l MCX

O c t y l m e t h o x y c i nnamate

P a r s o l 1789

UV-A

Pationic ISL

S o d i um is o s t e a r o y l 1 a c t y l a t e

P a t i o n i c ISL/85

Sodi um i s o s t e a r y l l a c t y l a t e 85% RITA

P a t i o n i c SSL

Sodium s t e a r o y l

Patlac I L

Isostearyl

P a t l a c LA

Lactic acid

G i vaudan

sunscreen

lactylate

lactate

RITA RITA RITA Dragoco

PCL L i q u i d Peach F l o r a l 92F/3235

RITA

Fragrance

Fragrance

P e a r l e s c e n t Pigments

Rona

P e c o s i 1 CAP-1240

Phoen ix

P e c o s i 1 PS-100

D i m e t h i cone c o p o l yo1 p h o s p h a t e

Phoenix

P e c o s i 1 SMQ-40

S i 1 i cone q u a t e r n i um-5

Phoenix

P e c o s i 1 SPB-1240

S i 1 ic o n e a u a t e r n i um-6

Phoenix Keunen

PEG Carnauba Pelan Black Pemulen TR-1

Acrylates/ClO-30

a1 k y l a c r y l a t e G o o d r i c h

Pemulen TR-2

P o l ymer ic emu 1 s i f ie r

Goodrich

Pentalyn C

Synthetic resi n

Hercules

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

379

SOURCE

P e n t a v i t in

Saccharide i somerate

Pentapharm

P e p t e i n 2000

Hydrolyzed animal p r o t e i n

Hormel

P e r fe c t a

Petrolatum

Witco

Perfume

Courage 0/243101

Dragoco

Perfume 726096

Fragrance

Haarman

Permethyl 104A

A l i p h a t i c hydrocarbon

Permethyl

Permulgin D

Custom b l e n d e d wax

Keunen

Pg-3 Beeswax

Cera B e l l i n a

Keunen

Phoenamid CD

Cocamide DEA

Phoen ix

Phoenamid L D

Laurami de DEA

Phoenix

P h o e n a t e SLES-70

S o d i urn 1a u r e t h s u l f a t e

Phoen ix

P h o e n a t e 3SDA

PEG-3 d i s t e a r a t e

Phoenix

Phoenoni p

L i q u i d p r e s e r v a t iv e s y s t e m

N i pa

Phoskadent Na211

Dental grade phosphate

BK-Laden-

Phosphol i p i d EFA/GFA/ PTC/SV

B i omi m e t i c p h o s p h o l ip i d

Mona

P h o s p h o t e r i c QL-38

T r i s o d i urn 1 auroampho PG a c e t a t e Mona p h o s p h a t e c h l o r i de

Phytal uronate

L o c u s t bean gum

Pentapharm

P i l o t SXS-4O/SXS-96

Hydrotrope

Pi l o t

101A/102A/

P1 u r a c a r e F127

BASF

P l u r a f a c C-17

Oxyethyl ated alcohol

BASF

PNC 400

S o d i um c a r b o m e r

3 V GmbH

P o l awax

E m u l s i f y i n g wax NF

Croda

Polawax A-31

E m u l s i f y i n g wax NF

Ross

380

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

RAW MATER1ALS

SOURCE

C a l c i n e d c l ay

ECC A m e r i c a

P o l y m e r JR400

Polyquaternium-10

Amerc h o 1

P o l y p e p t id e LSN

H y d r o 1y z e d c o l 1 agen

I n o lex

P o l y q u t a 400/3000

P o l y q u a t e r n i um-1 0

RITA

P o l y s y n l ane

Hydrogenated p o l y i s o b u t e n e

Poly e s t h e r

P o l e s t a r 400A P o l y b u t e n e H-100 P o l y e t h y l ene 6A/9A

P PG

PPG-36 C a s t o r O i l P r i c e r i n e 9083

G1 y c e r i ne

Uni chema

P r i f a c 2942

Myristic acid

U n i chema

P r i s t e r i ne 4904

Stearic acid

U n i chema

P r o c e t y l 10

A1 k o x y l a t e d c e t y l e t h e r

Croda

Prodew 100

S o r b i t o 1 / s o d i u m 1a c t a t e / p r o l i n e / s o d i u m PCA/hydrolyzed c o l 1 agen

A j inomoto

P r o m o i s ECP

C o l 1 agen

RITA

Promoi s WS

H y d r o l y z e d soy p r o t e i n

RITA

Promulgen D

Cetearyl alcohol/ceteareth-20

Amerchol

P r o c o l CS-POD

P r o n a l e n F r u i t A c i d AHA-5 P r o p e l l a n t A-46

Lemon & P a s s i o n F r u i t Conc. Centerchem

Hydrocarbon p r o p e l l a n t

Propylene G l y c o l / d i a z o l i d i n y l propylparaben

urea/methylparaben/

P h i 1 1 ip s P e t Sutton

Protectan

L a c t o c o c c u s 1a c t is 1y s a t e

Richter

P u r c e l 1 in O i 1

Cetearyl octanoate/isopropyl myristate

Dragoco

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

381

SOURCE

P u r c e l l i n O i l 2/066210 C e t e a r y l o c t a n o a t e

Dragoco

P u r t o n SFD

F a t t y a c i d alkanolamide

Z s c h i mmer

PVP K-30

PV P

ISP

PVP/VA E-735

PVP/VA c o p o l y m e r

ISP

R a f f e r m i ne

H y d r o 1 y z e d s o y f 1o u r

RITA

R e d u c t ine

Oat p r o t e i n

RITA

Resyn 28-1 31 O / 28-2930/28-3307

H a i r spray polymer

National

R e v i t a l in-BT

GI y c o p r o t e i ns

Pentapharm

R e w o t e r i c AM 514

Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne

Witco

R e w o t e r i c AM B14LS

Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne

Wi tco

Rheol a t e 5 0 0 0

A c r y l ate/Va copolymer

Rheox

R h o d a f a c RA-600

Deceth-4 phosphate

Rhone-Poul

Rhodapex ES

Ether s u l f a t e

Rhone-Poul Rhone- Pou 1

Rhodaquat D261 C/75 Rhodi g e l

X a n t h a n gum

Vanderbilt

Rhodopol 23/50MD

X a n t h a n gum

Vanderbilt Keunen

Rice Bran O i 1 R i tabate-20

Polysorbate-20

RITA

R i tabate-60

Polysorbate-60

RITA

R i tabate-80

Pol ysorbate-80

RITA

R i t a CA

Cetearyl alcohol

RITA

R itacet-20

Ceteareth-20

RITA

382

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW M A T E R I A L S

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

SOURCE

R i t a Cetearyl Alcohol

(50/50)

RITA

R i t a Cetearyl Alcohol

(70/30)

RITA

R itaceti

Cetyl esters

RITA

R itacetyl

A c e t y l a t e d 1a n o l in

RITA

R itachol

M i n e r a l o i 1 /la n o l i n a l c o h o l

RITA

R i t a c h o l 1000

RITA B l e n d

RITA

R i t a c h o l 2000

Cetearyl

RITA

R i t a CTAC-605

C e t r i moni um c h l o r i de

RITA

R i taderm

P e t r o l a t u m / l a n o l in / s o d i um PCA/ p o l y s o r b a t e 85

RITA

R i t a EGDS

G1 y c o l d i s t e a r a t e

RITA

R i t a EGMS

G1 y c o l s t e a r a t e

RITA

R i t a GMS

G1 y c e r y l s t e a r a t e

RITA

R i t a HA C - I - C

S o d i um h y a l u r o n a t e

RITA

R i tahydrox

H y d r o x y l a t e d 1 a n o l in

RITA

Rita IPM

Isopropyl myri s t a t e

RITA

R i t a IPP

Isopropyl palmitate

RITA

R i t a l an

Lanolin o i l

RITA

R i t a l o e 1X

Aloe vera gel

RITA

R i t a l o e 200M

Aloe vera gel

RITA

Ritamide C

Cocamide DEA

RITA

Ritapan D

d-Panthenol

RITA

R i t a p a n DL

d l -Pantheno1

RITA

R i t a p e g 150 DS

PEG-150 d i s t e a r a t e

RITA

R i t a PEO-1

PEG-SM

RITA

a1 coho1 / p o l y s o r b a t e - 6 0

Trade -Named Raw Materials

RAW M A T E R I A L S

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

383

SOURCE

R i t a PEO-3

PEG-23M

RITA

R i t a p r o 100

RITA b l e n d

RITA

R i tapro-165

G l y c e r y l stearate/PEG-100 stearate

RITA

R i t a p r o 300

Cetearyl alcohol/ceteareth-20

RITA

R i t a SA

S t e a r y l a1 c o h o l

RITA

R i t a s i l 190

D i m e t h i cone c o p o l yo1

RITA

R itasol

Isopropyl lanolate

RITA

R i t a SSO

S u n f l o w e r seed

oi 1

RITA

R i t a Stac-80

Steartrimonium c h l o r i d e

RITA

R i tasynt I P

G l y c o l s t e a r a t e and o t h e r s

RITA

R i t a t a i ne

Cocoami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne

RITA

R i tavena-5

Hydro1 y z e d o a t f 1o u r

RITA

R i tawax

L a n o l i n a1 c o h o l

RITA

R i t a w a x ALA

Cetyl acetate/acetyl ated 1 a n o l i n a1 c o h o l

RITA

R i t a w a x 15

L a n o l in a1 c o h o l

RITA

R i t o x 52

PEG-40 s t e a r a t e

RITA

R i t o x 59

PEG-100 s t e a r a t e

RITA

Rona P e a r l P i gment Combi n a t i o n s

Rona

Rosswax 1 5 - 1 182

Wax

Ross

Rosswax 2 6 - 1 152

Wax

Ross

Rosswax 1824

Wax

Ross

Rovisome Ace

Vitamin blend

RITA

R o v i some-AHA

Lactic acid

RITA

384

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

SOURCE

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Rovisome C

ROVI blend

RITA

Rovisome HA

L e c i t h i n / a l c o h o l / s o d i um h y a 1u r o n a t e

RITA

S a n s u r f OMC

C h e m i c a l compl e x

C o l l abora-

S c h e r c e m o l CO

Cetyl octanoate ester

Scher

S c h e r c e m o l CP

Ester

Scher

Schercemol D I D

D i is o p r o p y l d i m e r d i 1 ino1 e a t e

Scher

S c h e r c e m o l 185

Ester

Scher

S e l a s t i n EL-10

Secol

Sericin

Pentapharm

SF-1 204/SF1214

D i m e t h i cone

DowCorni n g Keunen

Shea B u t t e r

RITA

Shebu WS

PEG-50

S h e l l s o l D40

Petroleum d i s t i l l a t e s

Shel 1

Shellsol T

Petroleum d i s t i l l a t e s

Shel 1

Shinju 100T

S y n t h e t i c p e a r l p i gment

Mearl

S i comet

Dyestuff

BASF

S i c o m e t B l u e 542045

D y e s t u f f s u s p e n s i o n 1%

BAS F

shea b u t t e r

S i comet Red F12150

BASF

S i 1 icone 7207

OS1 S p e c i a l

S i 1ic o n y 1 Beeswax

Keunen

S i l k Mica

Rona

S i 1k ' n S o l u b l e L i q u i d

Dasco

S i l t e x M Super

Rona

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

385

SOURCE

Simchi n N a t u r a l

Jojoba o i l

RITA

S i p o n ES2

S o d i urn l a u r e t h s u l f a t e ( 2 m o l e ) Rhone-Poul

S i p o n LT-6

TEA l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Rhone-Poul Rhone- Pou 1

S i p o n 201-10

r i c i no1 e a t e

S o f t i g e n 701

G1 y c e r y l

S o f t i g e n 767

PEG-6 c a p r y l i c / c a p r i c glycerides

Hul s

S o f t i s a n 100

Hydrogenated c o c o - g l y c e r i d e s

Hul s

S o f t i s a n 378

Capryl i c / c a p r i c / s t e a r i c t r i g l y c e r i de

Hul s

S o f t i s a n Gel

Complex o f c h e m i c a l s

Hul s

S o f t i s a n 601

G l y c e r y l cocoate/hydrogenated coconut o i l / c e t e a r e t h - 2 5

Hul s

S o f t i s a n 645/649

B i s-di g l y c e r y l p o l yacyl adi pate-2

Hul s

Solagum

L

Soltrol

100

S o l u l a n 16

Hul s

Seppi c C9-11

isoparaffin

Laneth-lG/ceteth-16/0leth-l6/

P h i 11 i p s Amerc h o 1

steareth-16 S o l u l a n 98

Polysorbate 80/cetyl acetate/ acetylated l a n o l i n alcohol

Arne r c h o 1 Brooks

S o l u - S o y EN25 SS4267

Dirnethicone/trirnethyl-si loxys i 1i c a t e

GESi 1 ic o n e

S t a r f o l OS

D if a t t y ester

Sherex

S t a b i 1e z e XL-80W

ISP

S t a b i l e z e 06

ISP

Standarnid K D

Cocamide DEA

Henkel

386

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

S t a n d a m i d LD

SOURCE Henkel

Standapol A

Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Henkel

S t a n d a p o l ES1 (30%)

Sodi um 1 a u r e t h s u l f a t e

Henkel

S t a n d a p o l ES-2

Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

Henkel

Standapol T

TEA l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Henkel

S t a n d a p o l WAQ- LC

Sodi urn 1a u r y l s u l f a t e

Henkel

S t a n d a p o l WAQ Spec.

Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Hen k e 1

S t e o l CA-130/CS-130/ CS-230/CS-33O/CS-460

Alcohol ether s u l f a t e

Stepan

Stepan-Mi 1d BSB

Stepan

Stepan-Mi I d L S B

Stepan

S t e p a n - M i 1 d SL3

Stepan

S t e p a n o l AM

Ammoni urn 1 a u r y l s u l f a t e

Stepan

S t e p a n o l AM-V/ ME-Dry/WA-Extra

A1 k y l s u l f a t e

Stepan

S t e p a n o l WAT

TEA l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Stepan

S t e p a n TAB-2 Sunett

Stepan Acesulfame K

S u n f 1ower O i 1

Hoech s t L i PO

S u n s c r e e n L i posomes

Complex o f chemi c a l s

C o l 1a b o r a t -

Super F l o s s

D i atomaceous e a r t h

Manvi 11 e

Super H a r t o l an

L a n o l i n a1 coho1

Croda

Super R e f i ned Wheat Germ O i 1

Croda

S u p e r s a t AWS-4

PEG-20 h y d r o g e n a t e d l a n o l i n

RITA

Supra T a l c

Premi um t a l c

RITA

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATER1ALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

387

SOURCE

Syncrowax A w l - C

S y n t h e t i c wax

Croda

Syncrowax ERL-C

S y n t h e t i c wax

Croda

Syncrowax HGL-C

C18-36 a c i d t r i g l y c e r i d e

Croda

Syncrowax H R - C

S y n t h e t i c wax

Croda Keunen

S y n t h e t i c Candel i 11 a

Tagat L

PEG-20 g l y c e r y l 1 a u r a t e

Goldschmidt

Tagat 0

PEG-30 g l y c e r y l o l e a t e

Go1 dschmi d t Whi t t a k e r

T a l c 141 T a l c 1625 TEA S a l ic y 1 a t e

TEA s a l i c y 1 a t e i n p r o p y l ene glycol

Haarman

Technocell 90DV Tech-0

11-070 S t e r - 0 - P r o

Beacon CMP

Tech-0 11-075 C o n c e n t r a t e d Oat P r o t e i n

Beacon CMP

Tegi n

Glyceryl stearate S.E.

Goldschmidt

Tegin M

Glyceryl stearate

Go1dschmi d t Go1 dschmi d t

Teginacid C Teginacid H

G1 y c e r y l s t e a r a t e / c e t e t h - 2 0

Go1 dschmi d t

T e g i n EGS

G1 y c o l d i s t e a r a t e

Go1 dschmi d t

Tegin M

Glyceryl stearate

Goldschmidt

Cetyl alcohol

Go 1d s c hmi d t

Tego Amid S18

S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l d i m e t h y l ami n e

Go1 d s c h m i d t

Tego B e t a i n e E/F/FSO/ L7

Cocamidopropyl b e t a i n e

Go1 dschmi d t

Tego A l k a n o l

16

388

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

SOURCE

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Goldschmidt

Tego C a r e 450

P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 m e t h y l g l ucose d i stearate

Tego Deo HY77

Z i n c r i n c i no1 e a t e / t r i e t h a n o l ami n e / d i p r o p y l ene g l y c o l / l a c t i c acid

Tego G l u c o s i d L55

L a u r y l g l u c o s i de/cocamidopropyl betaine

Go1 dschmi d t

Tego G l u c o s i d 1216

Lauryl glucoside

Go1dschmi d t

Tego P e a r l N l O O

Glycol d i stearate/steareth-4

Go1dschmi d t

Tegosoft C I

Cetearyl

Go1 dschmi d t

T e g o s o f t CT

C a p r y l ic / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e s

Go1 d s c h m i d t

T e g o s o f t DO

Decyl o l e a t e

Go1 dschmi d t

T e g o s o f t GC

PEG-7 g l y c e r y l

Tegosoft L i qui d

Cetearyl octanoate

Go1 dschmi d t

Tegosoft M

Isopropyl myri s t a t e

Go1 dschmi d t

T e g o s o f t OP

Octyl palmitate

Go1 dschmi d t

T e g o s o f t OS

Octyl stearate

Go1 dschmi d t

Tegosof t P

Isopropyl palmitate

Go1 dschmi d t

Tegosoft S

Isopropyl stearate

Go1 dschrni d t

Tenox BHT

Antioxidant

Eastman

Tenox 4

Antioxidant

Eastrnan

Tensami 306

C a s e i n / x a n t h a n gum

A1 banMul1 e r

Tensi ne

Wheat p r o t e i n

RITA

-

isononanoate

cocoate

Go1 dschrni d t

Go1 dschrni d t

Texapon L20M

Henkel

Texapon SBN

Henkel

Texapon T42

TEA l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Henkel

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

SOURCE

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Thioglycolate Trihydrate

Merck

T h i o g l y c o l ic A c i d

Witco

T i m i c a S p a r k l e 11OP

C o s m e t i c p e a r l powder

Rona

T i m i r o n MP-24 G o l d K a r e t I n t e r f e r e n c e P i g m e n t

Rona

T i t a n i um d i o x i d e / m i c a

Rona

T i m i r o n S . I+ P i gments T i t a n i um d i o x i de/mi c a

Rona

T i m i r o n S i 1 k Red/ Star1i g h t Colors

Mica/titanium dioxide

Rona

T i m i r o n Super P i g m e n t s P e a r l e s c e n t p i g m e n t s

Rona

T i m i r o n MP1001 /MP1500

389

Alkyl

T i o x i de

T i o v e i l FIN

T i t a n i u m dioxide/C12-15 Benzoate

T i t a n i u m D i o i x d e 110

T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e / b i s m u t h oxychloride

Presperse

T r i s Amino

T r i s ( h y d r o x y m e t h y l ) aminomethane

Angus

T r i sept M

Methylparaben

T r i -K

T r i sept P

P r o p y l paraben

T r i -K

Tristat I U

I m i d a z o l id i n y l u r e a

T r i -K

Tritisol

S o l u b l e wheat p r o t e i n

Croda

T r i t o n X-100

Octoxynol-9

Rohm&Haas

T r i v e n t OC-G

T r i d e c y l neopentanoate

Trivent

Tween 20

P o l y s o r b a t e 20

IC1

Tween 40

P o l y s o r b a t e 40

IC1

Tween 60

P o l y s o r b a t e 60

IC1

T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e #3328

390

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW M A T E R I A L S

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Tween 80

P o l y s o r b a t e 80

IC1

T y l o s e CB 200

C e l l u l o s e gum

Hoechst

T y l o s e H1000

Hydroxyethyl c e l l u l o s e

Hoechst

U c a r e P o l y m e r JR-125

P o l y q u a t e r n i um-1 0

UnionCarb

Petrolatum

Ultra

U l t r a o l 70 NF Ultrapure L

Goodrich

U l t r e z 10 U n i c i d e U-13

I m i dazol i d i n y l urea

L i po

U n i n o n t a n U-34

W a t e r / p r o p y l ene g l y c o l / s o d i um citrate/lemon extract/cucumber extract

L i po

U n i p h e n P-23

Phenoxyethanol /methyl paraben/ e t h y l paraben/propyl paraben/ butylparaben

L i po

Benzophenone-3

BASF

U n i r e p U-18 U v a t o n e 2-6 U v i n u l M-40 U v i n u l MC80

BASF

UV-Ti t a n M212

T i t a n i um d i o x i d e / a l umi n a / g l y c e r i n / s i 1 ic a

Kemi r a

Van Gel B/C/ES/O

Magnesium a l u m i n u m s i l i c a t e

Vanderbilt Ungerer

V a n i 11 a BB-36943 V a n s e a l CS

Cocoyl s a r c o s i n e s u r f a c t a n t

Vanderbilt

V a n s e a l NACS-30

S o d i um 1 a u r o y l s a r c o s i n a t e

Vanderbilt

V a n s e a l NALS-30

Sarcosinate surfactant

Vanderbilt

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATER I A L S

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

391

SOURCE

V a r i on CADG/CADG LS/

Surfactant

Sherex

V a r i s o f t TA-100

Hai r r i n s e c o n c e n t r a t e

Sherex

V a r o n i c L I - 4 8 / L I -67/ 63-E-20

Nonionic w e t t i n g agent

Sherex

Vase1 in e W h i t e

Petrolatum white

Wi tco

Magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1 ic a t e

V a n d e r b i 1t

Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne

Henkel

Veegum/ H V / R e g u l a r / T/

K/ P r o / Ultra

V e l v e t e x BA-35

Henkel

V e l v e t e x BK-35 Versatyl-42

H a i r spray polymer

V e r s e n e Powder/100

T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA c h e l e t i n g a g e n t Dow

V i b r a n t S p l a s h 94F/2203

Fragrance

Fragrance Fanning

V i g i l a n AWS

Vitam n-E-Acetate

National

Tocopheryl a c e t a t e

BASF Richter

Vitam n F F o r t e CLR Volpo C S 2 0

Ethoxyl ated o l eoyl ether

Croda

Volpo s-2

Steareth-2

Croda

V o l p o s-10

Steareth-IO

Croda

V o l p o s-20

S t e a r e t h-20

Croda

Volpo 5

01 e t h - 5

Croda

Vybar-5013

Polymer

P e t r o l it e

392

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MAT E R IA LS

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

SOURCE

W a l n u t S h e l l s (AD-7B T y p e )

Agrashell

Waxenol 810

W i ckhen

Wecobee S

Synthetic butter

Stepan

Wecobee SS

S y n t h e t i c cocoa b u t t e r

Stepan Rita

Wheat Germ O i l Wheat-Tei n NL

H y d r o l y z e d wheat p r o t e i n

Maybrook

W h i t e F o n o l i ne

Petrolatum

W itco

White Protopet 1s

Petrolatum

Witco

Wickenol

152

CasChem

Wickenol

171

Ca sCh em

W i c k e n o l 550

CasChem

W i t c a m i de 51 1

A1 k a n o l a m i d e s u r f a c t a n t

Wi tco

W i t c o n a t e NIS

S o d i um is e t h i o n a t e

Witco

W i t c o n o l APM

Nonionic surfactant

W itco

Kelco

X a n t h a n Gum Y e l l o w P r o t o p e t 2A

Petrolatum

W itco

Zetesol NL

Sodium l a u r y l e t h e r s u l f a t e

Z s c h i mmer

Z e t e s o l 856T

Fatty alcohol ether sulfate

Z s c h i mmer

Z i n c Omadine

Z i n c p y r i t h i o n e , 48%

Olin

Z i n c Oxide N e u t r a l

Haarman

Z i n c S t e a r a t e #695 Z u s o l a t 1004

A1 k y l p o l y e t h y l ene g l y c o l e t h e r Z s c h i mmer

Z u s o l a t 10 0 5 / 8 5

A 1 k y l p o l y e t h y l ene g l y c o l e t h e r Z s c h i mmer

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW M A T E R I A L S

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

18-B G l y c y r r h e t i n i c A c i d Phytosome 33-5198 B l a c k I r o n O x i d e

Rona

4311810 U l t r a m a r i n e B l u e

Rona

8 0 / 2 0 B r a d p r i d e Soap Base

Bradford

7054 Red I r o n O x i d e

Rona

7055 Y e l l o w I r o n O x i d e

Rona

7133 B l a c k I r o n O x i d e

Rona

43001 Manganese V i o l e t

Rona

393

Section XIV Suppliers' Addresses

394

Suppliers’ Addresses

Agrashel 1 I n c , 5934 K e y s t o n e D r . B a t h , PA 18014 (215)-837-6705

Aqua1 on 1313 N . M a r k e t S t . W i 1m i n g t o n , DE 19899 (302)-594-5000/(800)-345-8104

A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . G l e n p o i n t C t r . W. 500 F r a n k W . B u r r 8 l v d . Teaneck, N J 07645 (201)-907-3244

Atochem N o r t h A m e r i c a 900 M i l k S t . C a r t a r e t , NJ 07008 (908)-541-4414

Akzo C h e m i c a l s , I n c . 300 S o u t h R i v e r s i d e P l a z a C h i c a g o , I L 60606 (312)-906-7500 A l b r i g h t & W i l s o n Americas P . O . Box 26229 Richmond, V A 23260 (804)-550-4300/(800)-446-3700 A l l i e d Signal, Inc. P . O . Box 2332R M o r r i s t o w n , NJ 07962 ( 2 0 1 ) -455-2000 Amerchol C o r p . P . O . Box 4051 136 Talmadge Rd. E d i s o n , NJ 08818 (908)-248-6000 A m e r i c a n C o l l o i d Co. Hwy 212W B e l l e F o u r c h e , SD 57717 (605)-892-2591 Amoco C h e m i c a l Co. 200 E . R a n d o l p h D r . C h i c a g o , I L 60601 (312)-856-3200/(800)-621-4567 Angus C h e m i c a l Co. 1500 E. Lake Cook Rd. B u f f a l o G r o v e , I L 60089 (708)-215-8600/(800)-323-6209

BASF C o r p . 100 C h e r r y H i 1 R d . P a r s i p p a n y , NJ 07054 (201)-316-3000/(800)-526-1072 B e l l F l a v o r s & Fragrances, I n c 500 Academy D r . N o r t h b r o o k , I L 60062 (312)-291-8300/(800)-323-4387 B e r n e l Chemical Co., 174 G r a n d A v e . Englewood, N J 07631 (201)-569-8934

Inc.

BK-Ladenburg C o r p . 50 S p r i n g S t . C r e s s k i l l , N J 07626 (201)-567-9100/(800)-526-2688 Brooks I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . 70 T y l e r P l a c e S o u t h P l a i n f i e l d , NJ 07080 (908)-561-5200 Calgon Corp. P . O . Box 1346 P i t t s b u r g h , PA 15230 ( 4 1 2 ) -777-8000 C a p i t a l C i t y P r o d u c t s Co. 525 W . F i r s t Ave. Columbus, OH 43216 (61 4)-299-3131/( 800)-848-1340

395

396

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

CasChem, I n c . 40 Avenue A Bayonne, N J 07002 (201)-858-7900/(800)-CAS-CHEM Centerchem, I n c . 225 H i g h R i d g e R d . S t a m f o r d , CT 06905

(203)-975-9800 C i ba-Gei gy C o r p . 410 Swing Rd. G r e e n s b o r o , NC 27419

(919)-632-7327/(800)-221-0453 Colorcon, I n c . Moyer B l v d . West P o i n t , PA 19486

(215)-699-7733

Eastman Chemical Co. P . O . Box 431 K i n g s p o r t , TN 37662 (615)-229-4006/(800)-EASTMAN ECC Ameri ca

5775 Peachtree-Dunwoody Rd. A t l a n t a , GA 30342 (800)-843-3222 E . Merck Darmstadt

,

Germany

Fanni ng C o r p .

2450 W . Hubbard S t . C h i c a g o , I L 60612 (312)-563-1234 Finetex,

Inc.

418 F a l m o u t h Ave. A & E Connock, L t d . F o r d i n g s b r i dge, H u n t s , UK

Elmwood P a r k , NJ 07407

Croda, I n c . 7 Century D r . P a r s i ppany, N J 07054

2231 W . Hwy 44 E u s t i s , FL 32726 (904)-357-4141

(201)-797-4686 F1 o r ida Food P r o d u c t s , Inc

.

(201)-644-4900 H.B.

Dow Chemical USA 2020 Dow C e n t e r M i d l a n d , M I 48674 (800)-258-CHEM Dow C o r n i n g C o r p . Box 0994 M i d l a n d , M I 48686

F u l l e r Co.

3530 N . L e x i n g t o n Ave. S t . Paul , MN 55126 (612)-481-1588/(800)-468-6358 GE S i 1 i c o n e s 260 Hudson R i v e r Rd. W a t e r f o r d , NY 12188

(518)-237-3330/(800)-255-8886

(517)-496-4000 Dragoco, I n c . 10 Gordon D r i v e Totowa, NJ 07512

Givaudan-Roure C o r p . 100 Delawanna Ave. C l i f t o n , N J 07015

(201)-365-8000

(201)-256-3850 DuPont Co. 1007 M a r k e t S t . W i l m i n g t o n , DE 19898

(800)-441-7515

Go1 dschmi d t Chemi c a l Corp. 914 E . Randolph Rd. H o p e w e l l , VA 23860

(804)-541-8658/(800)-445-1809

Suppliers' Addresses

397

B . F . G o o d r i c h Co. 991 1 B r e c k s v i 11e R d . C1 eve1 and , OH 441 41 (216)-447-5000/(800)-331-1144

Hydro1 abs , I n c . 27 E . 33 S t . P a t e r s o n , NJ 07514 (201 ) -345-51 00

Haarman & Reimer C o r p . 60 Diamond R d . S p r i n g f i e l d , NJ 07091 (201)-912-5707/(800)-432-1559

I C 1 Americas I n c . Concord P i k e & New Murphy R d . W i 1m i n g t o n , DE 19897 (302)-575-3034/(800)-822-8215

Hampshi r e Chemical Co. 55 Hayden Ave. L e x i n g t o n , MA 021 73 ( 6 1 7 ) -861 -6600

I n o l e x Chemical Co. J a c k s o n & Swanson S t s . P h i l a d e l p h i a , PA 19148 (215)-271-0800/(800)-521-9691

Henkel C o r p . 11501 N o r t h l a k e D r . C i n c i n n a t i , OH 45299 (513)-530-7300/(800)-543-7370

ISP: I n t e r n a t i o n a l S p e c i a l t y Prod 1361 A l p s Rd. Wayne, NJ 07470 (201)-628-3000/(800)-848-7659

H e r c u l es, I n c . H e r c u l e s P1 aza W i 1m i n g t o n , DE 19894 (800)-247-4372

Kelco D i v . Merck & Co., I n c . 8355 A e r o D r i v e San D i e g o , CA 92123 (619)-292-4900/(800)-535-2656

Hoechst C e l a n e s e C o r p . 3340 W . N o r f o l k Rd. P o r t s m o u t h , VA 23703 (800)-483-7530/(800)-526-4960 Hoffman-LaRoche, I n c . 340 K i n g s l a n d S t . N u t l e y , NJ 07110 (201)-235-8080/(800)-526-0189 Hormel P.O. Box 800 A u s t i n , MN 5591 2 (507)-437-5676 J.M. Huber C o r p . Thornall S t . E d i s o n , NJ 08837 (201)-549-8600 H u l s America, I n c . 80 C e n t e n n i a l D r . P i scataway, N J 08854 (908)-980-6946/(800)-526-0339

Kemira, I n c . 1170 R t e 22E P . O . Box 6784 B r i d g e w a t e r , NJ 08807 (201)-526-4644/(800)-4-KEMIRA Koster-Keunen, I n c , P . O . Box 447 90 B o u r n e B l v d . S a y v i l l e , NY 11782 ( 5 1 6 ) -589-0456 Lanaetex P r o d u c t s , I n c . 151 3 Ave. E l i z a b e t h , NJ 07206 (908)-351-9700 L i p 0 Chemicals, I n c . 207 1 9 t h Ave. P a t e r s o n , NJ 07504 ( 2 0 1 ) -345-8600

398

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Lonza,

Inc.

17-17 R t e . 208 F a i r Lawn, NJ 07410 (201)-794-2400/(800)-777-1875 Mearl Corp. 41 E . 42 S t . New Y o r k , NY 10017

Pentapharm L t d . E n g e l g a s s e 109, P . 0 . B o x Basel, Switzerland Penreco 138 P e t r o l i a S t . K a r n s C i t y , PA 16041

(412)-283-5600/(800)-245-3952

(212)-573-8500 P e t r o l i t e Corp. Mona I n d u s t r i e s I n c . 76 E. 24 S t . P.O. Box 425 P a t e r s o n , NJ 07544

(201) -345-8220 Morflex, Inc. 2110 H i g h P o i n t R d . G r e e n s b o r o , NC 27403

(919)-292-1781 N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & C h e m i c a l Co. 10 F i n d e r n e A v e . B r i d g e w a t e r , NJ 08807

(908)-685-5000/(800)-532-1115 Nipa Laboratories I n c . 104 H a g l e y B l d g . C o n c o r d P1 aza 3411 S i l v e r s i d e Rd. W i l m i n g t o n , DE 19810

6910 E 14 S t . T u l s a , OK 74112 (918)-836-1601 Phoenix Chemical Co.,

P h i l l i p s 66 Co. 376 P h i l l i p s B l d g . Annex B a r t l e s v i l l e , OK 74004

(806)-274-5236/(800)-858-4327 P i l o t C h e m i c a l Co. 11756 B u r k e S t . S a n t a Fe S p r i n g s , CA 90670

(21 3)-723-0036 Polyesther Corp.

61 H i l l S t .

(302)-478-1522

P . O . D r a w e r 5076 S o u t h a m p t o n , NY 1 1 969

O i Is o f A l o h a P . O . Box 685 66-935 Kaukonahua Rd. Wai a1 u a , Hawai i 96791

(51 6)-283-4400

(800)-367-6010

Inc.

322 C o u r t y a r d D r i v e S o m e r v i l l e , NJ 08876 (908)-707-0232

PPG I n d u s t r i e s

3938 P o r e t t D r iv e Gurnee, I L 60031 (708)-244-3410/(800)-CHEM-PPG

01 i n C o r p . 120 Long R i d g e Rd. P . O . Box 1355 S t a m f o r d , CT 06904

P r o c t o r & Gamble C h e m i c a l s D i v . P . O . Box 599 C i n c i n n a t i , OH 45201

(203)-356-2000/(800)-243-9171

(513)-983-5607/(800)-543-1580

O r i g i n a l B r a d f o r d Soap Works 200 P r o v i d e n c e S t . West W a r w i c k , R I 02893 (401) -821-2141

Quest I n t e r n a t i o n a l F r a g r a n c e s 400 I n t e r n a t i o n a l D r . Mount O l i v e , NJ 07828

(201) -691-7100

Suppliers'Addresses

Rheox Inc. Wyckoff Mills Rd. Hightstown, NJ 08520

22 W .

(609)-443-2320

(708)-446-7500

Rhone-Poulenc Inc. Prospect Plai ns Rd. Cranbury, NJ 08512

411 Summit Ave.

(609)-860-4000

(513)-681-5950/(800)-343-2583

Stepan Co. Frontage Rd. Northfield, IL 60093

Sun Chemical Corp. Cincinnati , OH 45232

Dr. K. Richter GmbH Chemi sches Laboratori um Benni gonstrabe 2 5 , D-1000 Berlin

Sutton Laboratories, Inc. 116 Summit Ave. Cincinnati , OH 45232

R. I .T.A. Corp. 1725 Ki 1 kenny Woodstock, I L 60098

Terry Laboratories, Inc. 390 N . Wickham R d .

(815)-337-2500/(800)-426-7759

Melbourne, FL 32935

Roche Chemical Di vi si on Hoffman-LaRoche, Inc. Nutley, NJ 07110 (201)-235-8077/(800)-526-0189

Rohm & Haas Co. Independence Mall West Philadelphia, PA 19105 (215)-592-3000

Rona/EM Industries 5 Skyline Drive Hawthorne, NY 10532 ( 9 1 4)-592-4660

(513)-681-5950/(800>-343-2583

P . O . Box 566 (407)-259-1630/(800)-367-2563

Tioxide Speciaties Ltd. Billingham, Cleveland TS23 1PS United Kingdom 0642-370300

Tri-K Industries, Inc.

P.O. Box 312 27 Bland St. Emerson, NJ 07630 (201)-261-2800/(800)-526-0372 Trivent Chemical Co. 45 Ridge Rd.

P.O.

Box 597

Frank 6. Ross Co., Inc. P.O. Box 4085 Jersey City, N J 07304

South River, NJ 08882

( 2 0 1 ) -433-451 2

Unichema North America 4650 S. Racine Ave. Chicago, I L 60609

Scher Chemicals Inc. Industrial W cor Styertowne Rd Clifton, N J 07012 (201 )-471-1300

Shell Chemical Co.

P.O. Box

2463

Houston, TX 77002 (713)-241-6161

(908)-251-1116

(312)-376-9000/(800)-833-2864

Union Carbide Chemicals and P1 ast i cs 39 Old Ridgebury Rd. Danbury, CT 06817 (203)-794-5300

399

400

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., 30 W i n f i e l d S t . P . O . Box 5150 N o r w a l k , CT 06856 ( 2 0 3 ) -853-1 400

Inc.

Van Dyk Main & W i l l i a m S t s . B e l l e v i l l e , NJ 07109 (201)-450-3264 Wacker S i l i c o n e s C o r p . 3301 S u t t o n Rd. A d r i a n , M I 49221

(517)-264-8500/(800)-248-0063 Whittaker, Clark & Daniels 1000 C o o l i d g e S t . S o u t h P l a i n f i e l d , NJ 07080 ( 9 0 8 ) -561 -61 00

W i t c o Corp. ( A l l Groups) 1 ) O l e o s u r f a c t a n t s Group 2 ) P e t r o l eum S p e c i a1 t i es G r o u p 3 ) P o l y m e r A d d i t i v e s Group 520 M a d i s o n Ave. New Y o r k , NY 10022 (212)-605-3600 Witco Corp. 5777 F r a n t z R d . P . O . Box 646 D u b l i n , OH 43017 (614)-765-6500/(800)-366-6500 Zschimmer & Schwarz P . O . Box 2179 D-5420 L a h n s t e i n, West Germany 3V I n c . 1500 H a r b o r B l v d . Weehawken, NJ 07087 (201 )-865-3600