COSMETIC AND TOILETRY FORMULATI0NS Second Edition Volume 4
bY
Ernest W. Flick
NOYES PUBLICATIONS Park Ridge, New Jer...
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COSMETIC AND TOILETRY FORMULATI0NS Second Edition Volume 4
bY
Ernest W. Flick
NOYES PUBLICATIONS Park Ridge, New Jersey, U.S.A.
Copyright 0 by Ernest W. Flick No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the Publisher. Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 89-39099 ISBN: 0-8155-1383-6 (v. 4) Printed in the United States Published in the United States of America by Noyes Publications Mill Road, Park Ridge, New Jersey 07656 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data (Revised for vol. 4) Flick, Ernest, W. Cosmetic and toiletry formulations. 1. Cosmetics. 2. Toilet preparations.
I. Title. TP983.F55 1989 668'.55 ISBN 0-8155-1218-X (v. 1) ISBN 0-8155-1306-2 (v. 2) ISBN 0-8155-1367-4 (v. 3) ISBN 0-8155-1383-6 (v. 4)
89-39099
Contents and Subject Index SECTION I: ANTIPERSPIRANTS AND DEODORANTS . . . . . . . . . . 1 Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiperspirant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 2 Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Aerosol Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Antiperspirant Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 OiWater Antiperspirant Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Antiperspirant Roll-On . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Roll-On Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Antiperspirant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Oil-in-Water Antiperspirant Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Antiperspirant Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Deodorant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Deodorant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Dry Antiperspirant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 8 Quick Drying Roll-On Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dry Roll-On Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Talc Spray Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 General Purpose Stick Formulation-1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 General Purpose Stick Formulation-2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Stick Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 11 Roll-On Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Quick Dry Roll-On Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Clear Roll-On A.P. Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Spray Powder Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Deodorant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Stick Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 SECTION 11: BABY PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Lotion Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Foam Baths . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tear Free Baby Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Wipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . vii
15 16 17
17 18 21 22 22
viii
Contents and Subject Index Mild Children's Bubble Bath
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22
SECTION III: BATH AND SHOWER PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aerosol Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dispersible Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BathGel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bath Gelee with Natural Lipid Protein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bath Gelee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Bath Gelee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bath Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Washing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bath Oil, De Luxe with Plant Oils . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foam Bath with Almond Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foam Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bubble Bath & Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bubble Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High Foaming Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foam Baths, Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foam Baths, Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Herbal Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foam Bath, Transparent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shower Bath Gel with Pearl Lustre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear, Mild to the Skin Shower Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refreshing Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shower Bath for Everyday Use . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shower Baths, Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shower Baths, Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shower Gel Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bath Crystals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Silky Bath Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water White Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
23 24 24 24 25 25 25 26 26 27 27 27 28 28 29 29 30 30 31 31 32 33 32 33 33 34 34
SECTION IV: BEAUTY AIDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aloe Vera Skin Freshener . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Powder Mask Activator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . BlemisWScar Concealer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Cleanser with Porous Cellulose Particles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Body Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Body Powder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
39 40 40 41 41 42 42
35 35 36 36 37 38 38
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Cheek Rouge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Concealing Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Cream Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Dry Powder Rouge Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Cream Facial Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Oil-in-Water Cream and Its Scrub Derivative . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Cream-to-Powder Eye Shadow with Dry-Floc PC . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Liquid Talc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Creamy Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Waterproof Eye Liner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Creamy Matte Make Up Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Liquid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Creamy Roll-On Lip Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 51 Deep Extra Body Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Liquid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Emulsion Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Water-in-Oil Lotion Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Eye Contour Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Eye Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Eyeliner SticWencil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Face and Body Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Lip Care Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Face-Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Skin Tonic Water Without Alcohol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Sting Free Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Fluid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Compact Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Fluid Make Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Regenerating Lipcare-Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 62 Gelled Aloe Vera with Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aloe Vera Jelly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Gentle Beauty Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 64 Hair and Skin Moisturizing Mist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Hair and Skin Moisturizing Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Hair Liquid (Soft Type) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High Shine Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Lipstick Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Lip Balm White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Lip Balm I . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Lip Balm I1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Lip Gloss (Souffle) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Roll-On Lip Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Lip Pencil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
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Contents and Subject Index New Look Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Lip-Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Lipstick, Glossy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 74 Lipstick Formulae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Powder Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 76 Liquid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Silky Facial Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Lotion Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Lotion Hand Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Low Cost, Extended Wear Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Low Cost Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 80 Lip Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Makeup Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Eyebrow Pencil, Heat Stable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 83 Moisture Stick Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream Rouge Formula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Pot Eyeshadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Moisturizing Liposomal Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Skin Tightening Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Moisturizing Make-up Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Skin Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Moisturizing Milk with High Electrolyte Content . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 W/O Hydrating Body Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Nail Polish Remover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Non-Feathering Extended Wear Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Oil/Water Matte Cream Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Lip Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Oil-in-Water Milk Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 90 Oil-in-Water Milk Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . One Coat Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Overnight Facial Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Moisturizing Make-up Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 O/W Cleansing Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 W/O Cleansing Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 O/W Cleansing Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Dry Skin Oil with Alcohol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Petroleum OiWetroleum Wax Free Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Pressed Powder Eye Shadow (Pearlescent Type) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Face Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
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Pressed Powder Eyeshadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Molded Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cosmetic Aerosol Foam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressed Powder with 1% Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pressed Powder with 3% Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Prolonged Skin Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Lightening Composition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Three Layer Facial Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Purifying Clay Face Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Slenderizing Cream with Green Tea Extract . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Amidroxy Sugar Cane Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Soothing Body Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anhydrous Deep Penetrating Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stick Type Lip Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Thickening Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Thigh Slimming Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ultra Rich Hand and Body Nourisher . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vegetable Based Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquifying Cream Makeup Remover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water Resistant Liquid Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lip Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
97 97 97 98 98 99 99 99 100 101 101 102 102 103 104 105 106 107 107 108 108
SECTION V:CREAMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . All Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vanishing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . All Purpose Dry Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dry Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Almond Vanishing Cream with Collagen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dry Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream with 10% Aloe Vera Gel . . . . . . . . . . Aloe Vera Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-Cellulite Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Antiwrinkle Daycream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Daycream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Benzoyl Peroxide Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Day Cream O/W for Sensitive Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mascara Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cold Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Facial Washing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Daily Facial Cream with W Protection (Om . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
109 110 111 112 112 113 113 114 115 116 116 117 118 118 119 119 120 121 122 123 123 124
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Contents and Subject Index Day Cream. Oily . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Cream. Slightly Oily . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Deep Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Apricot Vanishing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stabilized Urea Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Cream for Dry Flaking Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Facial Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Non-Greasy Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vanishing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . European O N Day Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Exfoliating Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Facial Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Hand and Body Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Facial Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Age Spot Treatment Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . General Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . General Purpose WatedOil Cream ........................ General Purpose O/W Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Acne Scrub Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Cream, WatedOil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . General Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water-in-Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . General Purpose Water/Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mineral Oil Cream-W/O .............................. General Purpose W/O Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil-in-Water Cream and Its Scrub Derivative . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . General Purpose W/O Hand Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil-in-Water Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gentle Night Repair Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glossy Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glycolic Acid Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand and Body Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High Content Mineral Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Petrolatum Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydrocortisone Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . All Natural Cream (W/OType) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydrogen Peroxide Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydroxy Acid Cream (W/OEmulsion) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Cream Cold Process W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Light Texture Hand Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
125 125 126 127 128 128 129 129 130 130 131 131 132 132 133 134 134 135 135 136 136 137 140 140 141 141 142 147 148 148 149 149 150 151 152 153 154 154 155 155 156 157 157 158
Contents and Subject Index
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Facial Moisture Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Mixed Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Multi-Functional Day Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Multi-Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Versatile Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Night Cream (15% Aloe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Aloe Bath Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 OiWater Cold Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 O/W Cold Cream (Soap Free) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 O i w a t e r Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 OiWater Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 OiWater Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 W/O Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 OiWater Pigmented Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 O/W All-Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Oil-in-Water-in-Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 Transparent Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 O/W Protective Hand Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Hand Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Modified Oil-in-Water Stearic Acid Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Hand Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Moisturizer O/W Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 171 Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Neck Firming Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 173 Night Cream, Non-Greasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Cream, with Bacteriostat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 174 Protective Face and Body Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Eye Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 175 Protective Face and Body Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rejuvenating Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 W/O Night Repair Cream "Cold Procedure" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Silk Protein Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 Moisturizing Cream with Tritosol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 Silky-Smooth LotiodCream-A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Silky-Smooth LotiodCream-B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Silky-Smooth LotiodCream-C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 Silky Smooth Cream Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 180 SkinCream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Cream with CAE and Amihope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Skin Care Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Soft Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183
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Contents and Subject Index Jojoba Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vanishing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ross Cold Cream Formulation with Jojoba Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Cream with Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90% Water Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Soft and Silky Vanishing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SECTION VI: HAIR CARE PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . "Artic Mist" Spray Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Super Hard Hold Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Balsam Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Conditioner with Wheat Germ Cationic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Leave-On Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Birch Hair Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Invigorating Hair Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brushing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Brushing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brushing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Light Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Gel Hairdressing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . WatedOil Hair Dressing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear 'N' Natural Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream of Wheat Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conditioner and Setting Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Curl Conditioner and Oil Sheen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Foaming Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conditioner with Croquat HH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High Performance Creme Rinse Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream Curl Activator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Relaxer Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pearl Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream Hair Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydrogen Peroxide Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Permanent Wave Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Deep Conditioning Treatment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Intensive Conditioner with Body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethnic Hair Care Clear Hair Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethnic Hair Care Hair Dressings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
183 184 185 186 186 187 187 188 189 189 190 190 190 191 191 191 192 192 193 193 194 194 195 195 196 196 197 197 197 198 198 199 199 200 200 200 201 201 201 202 202 203 203
Contents and Subject Index
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Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gels Hair Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-On Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens Conditioning Sheen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gel for Shine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gel Moisturizing . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 Ethnic Hair Care Leave-In Moisturizing'Sheen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 Ethnic Hair Care Hair Cuticle Coat Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-On MoisturizindOil-Sheens Moisturizing Sheen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-On Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens Extra Sheen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 Ethnic Hair GlossedConditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Ethnic Pump Spray Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Ethnic Hair GlosserBxtra Conditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 Ethnic air Care Extra Conditioning Coat Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . 209 Extra Hold Conditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 Leave-On Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 Firm Hold Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 High Performance Styling Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 212 Gel Curl Activator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alcohol Free Styling Gel pH: 7.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 213 Guanidine No Base Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Potassium Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 Hair Brushing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 Hair Conditioner with Moisturizers and Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Animal Protein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 216 High Quality Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Conditioning Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Hair Conditioner with CAE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Hair Conditioning Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 218 Clear Hair Conditioner Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Hair Conditioning Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 Hair Tonic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 Hair Dressing W/O Cold Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 Hair Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 Hair Gloss to Control Gel Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Iridescent Hair Gel Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Hair Pomade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 Hair Relaxer4lycerine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Hair Relaxer-Glycol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Hair Sculpting Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
mi
Contents and Subject Index Hair Straightener . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conditioning Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High Petrolatum Mousse Aerosol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hot Oil Hair Treatment Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hot Oil Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hot Oil Super Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Soft Glossing Spritz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Intensive Conditioning Pomade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Light Oil Free Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Intensive Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Salon Strength Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Leave-On Scalp and Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Extra Hold Conditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Light Oil Free Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aloe Vera air Conditioner (Light) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Low Cost Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Extra Stable Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Medium Hold, 80% VOC Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55% VOC Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Medium Strength Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Medium Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisture Balance Conditioner w/Cropeptide W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . "Leave-On" Conditioner Concentrate ...................... Natural Lipid Conditioner for Professional Salon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Opaque Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Pearl Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Non-Aerosol Hair Spray with Protein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Rinse for Stressed Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pearly Lotion Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Protein Lotion Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Spray Leave-On Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pump Gel Type Spritz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Hair Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pump Spray Hair Detangler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hot Oil Treatment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ringing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Micro Emulsion Ringing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Salon Type Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Silicone Hair Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shebu Hair Setting Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stiff Holding Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aerosol Shaping Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . StylingIConditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Gel Grooming Agent and Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
225 225 226 226 227 227 227 228 228 229 229 230 230 231 231 232 232 233 233 234 234 235 235 236 236 236 237 237 238 238 238 239 239 240 240 241 241 242 243 243 244 244 245 245
Contents and Subject Index
xvii
Hair Straightening Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Styling Mousse X22176-106 (Hydroalcoholic) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Styling Mousse X22176-107 (Alcohol-Free) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water-Based Hair Spray X21980-057 (Pump) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water-Based Hair Spray X21980-058 (Aerosol) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wheat Germ Foaming Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Natural Lipid Styling Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pump Type Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80% VOC Non-Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80% VOC Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80% VOC Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High Humidity Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80% VOC Aerosol Shaper Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High Solids 80% VOC Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
245 246 246 247 247 248 248 248 249 249 250 250 251 251 252 252
SECTION W:LOTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Exercise Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Therapeutic Humectant Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alcoholic Milk Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Milk Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion ............................ Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Banana Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Behenyl Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Velvet 44-Behenyl Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Lotion O/W Cold Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Concentrated Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Deep Skin Cleansing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Deep Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . European O/W Cleansing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water/Oil Cleansing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gentle Moisturizing Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Protective Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
253 254 254 255 255 256 257 258 258 259 259 260 260 261 261 262 263 263 264 264 265 265 266 266 267 268 270
xviii
Contents and Subject Index Soft Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Jojoba Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High Petrolatum Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Low Irritation Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydroalcoholic Mineral Oil Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mineral Oil Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Isopropyl Myristate Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vanishing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lanolin and Aloe Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glossy Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Low Solids Almond Lotion I1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Peach Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Milk Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mineral Oil Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mineral Oil L o t i o n 4 / W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mineral Oil Free Lotion Contains Ethanol (20%) . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pomade Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Neutralizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Quick Dry Roll-On Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Broad Spectrum Protective Moisturizing Lotion with Vitamins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Lotion with a-Hydroxy Acids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Lotion Cold/Cold Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil-in-Water Body Care Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . OiWJater Foundation Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . OiWater Emollient Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Perfumed Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Silk Protein Skin Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pearlescent Bath Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Care Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dry Skin Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Softening Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Soft and Silky Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Low Cost Low Solids Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Strawberry Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
271 272 272 273 273 274 274 275 275 276 276 277 278 278 279 279 280 282 282 283 283 284 284 285 285 286 287 289 289 290 290 291 292 293 293 294 295 295 296 296 297 297 298
Contents and Subject Index Apricot Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Super Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . IRF Facial Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Facial Moisturizing Lotion (W/O) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ultra Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Un-Buffered Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Lotion with Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Lotion with Amihope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
xix 298 299 300 300 301 302 303 303 304 304
S E W O N VIII: SHAMPOOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305 Acid Balanced Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 All Purpose Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 Aloe Vera Gel Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 Aloe Vera Premium-Type Shampoo with Protein . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 308 Anti-Dandruff Lotion Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Cream Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 309 Anti-Dandruff Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cleaning Shampoo Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309 Anti-Dandruff Shampoos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 Shampoos for Greasy Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 Antidandruff Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311 Protein Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311 Balsam and Protein Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312 Cleaning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314 Professional Salon Type Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315 316 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cold Mix Shampoo w/Crosultaine C-50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317 317 Everyday Hair Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 Gentle Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 319 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319 Cream Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 Highly Pearlescent Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 Emollient Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321 Moisturizing Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321 Shampoo Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321 Ethnic Hair Care Amphoteric Shampoo (Cold Process) Clear . . . . . 322 Ethnic Hair Care Amphoteric Shampoo (Cold Process) Pearled . . . 322 323 Everyday Family Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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Contents and Subject Index Gel Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Shampoo. Dilutable Viscous Shampoo For Customer (Dilution 1:4) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Viscous Consumer Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Transparent Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lotion Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Shampoo. Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Shampoo. Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Shampoos. Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Shampoo with Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Shampoo with Conditioner for Everyday Use . . . . . . . . . . . . . Herbal Shampoo. Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Highly Concentrated Hair Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High Foaming 2 in 1 Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Silicone Free 2:l Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Light Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Low pH. Protein Gel Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Economy Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisture Balance Shampoo with Cropeptide W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shampoo with Tritisol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Protein Shampoos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vitamin Shampoos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shampoo for Dry Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Salon Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Salon Style Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 in 1 High Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shampoo for Permed Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pearlescent Shampoo Concentrate ........................ Neutralizer Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sport Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Herbal Shampoo Against Greasy air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Two in One Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Three in One Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wheat and Sesame Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Detangling Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wheat Germ Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . No-Sting 2:1 Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Stripper Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
324 324 324 325 325 325 325 32.6 326 327 327 328 328 329 329 330 330 331 333 333 333 334 335 335 336 336 336 337 338 338 339 339 339 340 340 341 344 346 346 347 347 347
Contents and Subject Index
SECTION IX: SHAVING PRODUCTS ......................
Aerosol Shaving Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Nonionic Aerosol Foam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Shave Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shave Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Shave Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Alcohol Free After Shave Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conditioning After Shave Toner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Brushless Shave Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emulsion for Shaving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Soap Free-Nonionic Shaving Emu1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hemostatic After Shave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shaving Foam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shaving Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shaving Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ultra Aerosol Shave Cream for Sensitive Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
.
xxi 348 349 349 350 350 351 352 352 353 354 354 355 355 356 356 357
SECTION X SOAPS AND HAND CLEANERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358 359 Economy Heavy-Duty and Cleaners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emulsion Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360 Waterless Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360 Emulsion Cleaner and Waterless Hand Cleaner Emulsion Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361 361 Waterless and Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fast Set Waterless Hand Cleaner with d-Limonene F-453 . . . . . . . 362 Clear Gel d-Limonene Waterless Hand Cleaner F-454 Hand Cleaning Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 Hand Cleaning Cream. Free of Solvents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 Hand Cleaning Cream with Solvent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 Hand Cleaners from Concentrate 364 Economy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364 Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Premium . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364 Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364 Industrial and Institutional Liquid Hand Soaps 365 Glucopon and AS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365 Glucopon and LAS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Glucopon and AES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365 365 Glucopon and AOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Hand Soap Concentrate (Antimicrobial) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366 Waterless Hand Cleaner (Gel) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366 Waterless Hand Cleaner (Lotion) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366 Liquid Hand Soap Formulations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367 367 Lotion Hand Soap Requires No Heat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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Contents and Subject Index Cream Soap (Requires Heat) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid and Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Synthetic Soaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Soap with Aloe Vera Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pearlescent Liquid Hand Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Low Cost Clear Cleansing Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shower Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . "Medicated" Skin Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Heavy-Duty Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Mild Lotion Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Hand Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Premium Emollient Hand Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water Free Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Waterless Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Waterless Hand Cleaner No . 390 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Waterless Hand Cleaner No . 243 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
367 367 368 369 370 370 371 371 372 372 373 373 374 374 376 376 378 378
SECTION XI: SUN CARE PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Absorbing Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Synergistic Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Absorbing Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water Resistant SP4 Sunscreen Composition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Non-Alcoholic Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Oil Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aloe After Sun Lotion (40% Aloe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Suntan Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aloe Suntan Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Buffered Self Tanning Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cooling After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Suntan Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Daily UV Protection Lotion (Approximate SPF 18) . . . . . . . . . . . . European O/W Sun Protection Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lip Balm with Sunscreen-A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lip Balm with Sunscreen-B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Non-Chemical Sunscreen Lotion (Approximate SPF 15) . . . . . . . . O/W After Sun Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O After Sun Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O N Cream (SPF 5 ) (UVA/UVB Ratio 0.91) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Sun Protection Cream (SPF 15+) (UVA/UVB Ratio 0.75) . . .
379 380 380 381 381 381 382 382 383 383 384 384 385 386 386 387 388 388 389 389 390 391 391 392 392
Contents and Subject Index O/W Hydroalcoholic Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Sunscreen (SPF 17) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Emollient Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 12) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O N Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 10) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 20) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Vitaminized Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Lotion Indicative SPF 8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Indicative SPF 25t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Indicative SPF 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Cream High Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tanning Jelly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Cream Super Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Jojoba After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Lotion-A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Lotion-B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Lotion-C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Lotion-D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Lotion High Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Lotion Super Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Oil-A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Oil-B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Oil-C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Oil-D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Stick White Color . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solar Tanning Stick Tan Color . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sun Block Soft Cream ( O W ) Tested SPF 26 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sun Filter Foam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . After Sun Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sun Protection Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen with Amihope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O SPF20 Sunscreen with Elder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Balm (Cold Processing) SPF 8 (DIN 67501) . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Cream Water-in-Oil (Expected SPF 1 5 t ) . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Bronzing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
xxiii
393 393 394 394 395 396 397 398 398 399 400 401 402 403 404 404 405 405 406 406 407 407 408 408 409 409 409 409 410 410 411 412 412 413 415 415 416 417 418 419 419 420 420
xriv
Contents and Subject Index Sun Screen Cream W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 421 Sun Screen Cream W/O. Oily . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422 Self Tanning Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422 Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 423 Suntan Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424 425 Sunscreen Gel (approx. SPF 10) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 425 Sunscreen Gel (approx. SPF 12) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Gel SPF 6 (FDA-OTC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 426 Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 427 Sunscreen Lotion (approx. SPF 15) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428 429 Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Emollient Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429 Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) SPF 6 (DIN 67501) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 430 SPF 11 (DIN 67501) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 431 432 SPF 4 (DIN 67501) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 433 SPF 18 (FDA-OTC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 434 SPF 10 (DIN 67501) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) (cold processing) SPF 6 (FDA-OTC) 435 waterproof . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) SPF 30 (FDA-OTC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 436 Tested SPF 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 437 Tested SPF 16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 438 439 SPF 6 (FDA-OTC). waterproof . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tested SPF 11 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440 Sunscreen Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 441 Tanning Accelerator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 442 Sun Screen Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 442 Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof Sunscreen SPF 12 (tested) . . . 443 Ultra Violet Absorbing Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 444 445 Unbuffered Self Tanning Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Waterproof Sun Protection Lotion (with 8% Titanium Dioxide) SPF 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 446 WIO Sunscreen Lotion SPF 22 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 446 Waterproof Sunscreen Gel vested SPF 30) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447 447 Spray Mist SPF 16 (Tested) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Emulsion SPF 22 (Static) SPF 21 (Waterproof) . . . . . . . . 448 W/O Emulsion SPF 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 448 Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion Base SPF3.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449 SPF3.7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449
Contents and Subject Index
xxv
Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF21 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450 SPF15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450 Waterproof W/O Sun Protection Lotion 451 SPF17 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . With 8% Titanium Dioxide, SPF 12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 451 Water Resistant Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452 W/O SPF 15 Sunscreen with Ajidew and Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454 Sunscreen Lip Balm with Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454 W/O SPF 15 Sunscreen with Ajidew and Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455 W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF-18 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456 W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF-17 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456
SECTION XII: MISCELLANEOUS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aloe Medicated Gel With Alcohol (SDA 39C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Aloe Medicated Gel Without Alcohol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cetylpyridinium Chloride Mouthwash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Spearmint Mouthwash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Gel Without DEA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Silicone Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Ringing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Gel Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream Sachet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Cologne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Solid Cologne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . High-Luster Toothpaste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Denture Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydrophilic O/W Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Anhydrous Ointment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Washable Anhydrous Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Jojoba Massage Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Massage Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Micro-Emulsions with Aloe Vera and d-Limonene . . . . . . . . . . . . Modified Petrolatum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Washable Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Anhydrous Ointment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Zinc Oxide Ointment-Anhydrous . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil-in-Water-in-Silicone Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Protein-Lecithin Complex Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Growth Accelerator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pharmaceutical Cream Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
457 458 458 459 459 460 460 461 461 462 462 462 463 463 464 464 464 464 465 465 466 467 467 468 468 468 469 470 470 470 471
m i
Contents and Subject Index Pharmaceutical Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Washable Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wound Healing Accelerator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Massage Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Petrolatum Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SECTION XLLI: TRADE-NAMED RAW MATERIALS SECTION XIV:SUPPLIERS' ADDRESSES
471 472 474 474 474 475
. . . . . . . . . . 476
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526
Section I Antiperspirants and Deodorants
1
2
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiperspirant Stick
% w/w 45.00 10.00 15.00 25.00 5.00
Insredi ents: A Dow C o r n i n g 345 f l u i d A r l a m o l ISML Stearyl alcohol Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e powder Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l B
*Fragrance
*
q. s. t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t h e y ai m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o j u s t above s, antiperspirant s t i c k containers. Formula CP 1085
11 l i q u i d ( a p p . 72C) and 7 i n t and package i n
Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiperspirant Stick Inaredients: A Dow C o r n i n g 345 f l u i d Stearyl alcohol Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e powder Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l B
% w/w 45.00 25.00 25-00 5.00
*Fragrance
*
q. s
.
t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s
.
Procedure: Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d ( a p p . 72C) and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o j u s t above s e t p o i n t and package i n anti perspi rant s t i c k containers. Formula CP 1086 Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiper Ingredients: A Dow C o r n i n g 344 f l u i d A r l a m o l ISML Stearyl alcohol Reheis m i c r o d r y Castorwax, h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l
% w/w 45.00 10.00 15.00 25.00
5.00
Procedure: Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d ( a p p . 72C) and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o j u s t above s e t p o i n t and package i n antiperspirant s t i c k containers. Formula PC 8220
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Antiperspirants and Deodorants
Antiperspirant
w
Inaredients: V o l a t i l e s i l i c o n e , D . C . 344 f l u i d A r l a m o l ISML Stearyl alcohol Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e powder, M i c r o - d r y C a s t o r wax
45.00 10.00 15.00 25.00 5.00
Procedure: Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d ( a p p . 72C) and m i x t h o r u g h l y . Cool t o j u s t above s e t p o i n t and package i n antipersp rant s t i c k containers. Antiperspirant Insredients: V o l a t i l e s i 1 cone, D.C. 344 f l u i d A r l a m o l ISML A1 Z r T e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x - g l y , Rezal 36 GP, u l t r a f ine Stearyl alcohol Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l F r a g r a n c e , S p i c y l i m e #4851-AN, I F F
u
48.50 10.00 super 20.00
16.00 5.00 0.50
Procedure: Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d ( a p p . 72C) and mix t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o j u s t above s e t p o i n t and package i n antiperspirant s t i c k containers. Aerosol Antiperspirant Insredients: A Quaternium-18 h e c t o r i t e g e l Arlamol E C y c l o m e t h i c o n e , V o l a t i l e s i l i c o n e 7207 A r l a c e l 80
B
Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e ,
C
Hydrocarbon p r o p e l l a n t , p r o p e l l a n t A-46
M a c r o s p h e r i c a l 95
u 8.00 3.00 3.00 0.50
6.00 79.50
Procedure: M i x ( A ) t h o r o u g h l y w i t h medium sheer equipment. Add ( B ) a t a s l o w s t e a d y r a t e and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . F i l l , vacuum c r i m p and charge ae ro s ol u n i t s w i t h ( C ) .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
3
4
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations Anti-Perspirant Cream
Insredi ents: A A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g . m . s . Cetyl alcohol B Water, d e i o n i zed Aluminum c h l o r h y d r o x i d e complex,
5.00 5.00 50.00 50% s o l u t i o n
40.00
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) w i t h agitation. S t i r u n t i l set. Anti-Perspirant Cream
Ingredients: A A r l a c e l 165 Spermaceti B Glycerol Water, d e i o n i zed C Titanium dioxide D Aluminum c h l o r h y d r o x i d e complex E *Perfume
*
q.s.
18.00 5.00 5.00 53.00 1-00 18.00
these i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat (A) and ( 6 ) t o 80C. and add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . S t i r f o r 15 m i n u t e s and add (C) s l o w l y , c o n t i n u e t o a g i t a t e and c o o l t o 40C. Add ( D ) and c o n t i n u e t o a g i t a t e u n t i l m i x t u r e i s homogenous. Add ( E ) and s t i r . Oil/Water Antiperspirant Cream
Inqredients: A S t e a r i c acid, t r i p l e pressed Beeswax Mineral o i l A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60 B Water, d e i o n i zed C Aluminum C h l o r h y d r a t e , 50% s o l *Perfume *q.s.
14.00 2.00 1 .oo 5.00 5.00 33.00 40.00
these ingredients.
Procedure: Heat (A) t o 85 deg. C and ( 6 ) t o 85 deg. C . Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M i x w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40 deg. C . Add (C) and continue mixing u n t i 1 cool.
SOURCE:
IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Antiperspirants and Deodorants
5
Antiperspirant Roll-On
w/w
Innredients: A Arlamol E A r l a m o l ISML B r i j 721 B r i j 72
96
B
Water
49 00
C
A1 umi num Z i r c o n i u m T e t r a Chlorohydrex-GLY (50% aqueous s o l u t i o n )
40.00
D
3.00 4.00 1.50 2.50 I
*Preservative *Fragrance
*
q. s
.
t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s
.
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and ( 6 ) t o 65C. Add (8) t o (A) u s i n g p r o p e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) a t a b o u t 50C and ( D ) a t a b o u t 45C. Add w a t e r a t 35C t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Package. F o r m u l a AD-3
Roll-On Antiperspirant Inaredi ents : A Arlamol ISML Arlamol E B r i j 721 B r i j 72
%
49.00
B
Water,
C
Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e (50% s o l u t i o n ) ,
D
Germaben I 1
*
deionized W i c k e n o l 303
40.00 1 .oo
q . s . these i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and ( 6 ) t o 6%. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) u s i n g p r o p e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t a b o u t 50C and ( D ) a t a b o u t 45C. Add w a t e r a t 35C t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t ion. Package
.
SOURCE: IC1
w/w 3.00 3.00 1.50 2.50
Surfactants:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
6
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Antiperspirant Stick
Ingredients: A
%W/W
Brij 721 Arlamol E
2.30 11.50
Isopropyl myristate & stearalkoniurn hectorite
5.70
Ozokerite wax Myristyl alcohol
22.40 17.20
B
Aluminum-Zirconium trichlorohydrate
23.00
C
Cyclomethicone
17.90
*q.s. these ingredients. Procedure: Heat (A) to 65 deg. C and (B) to 68 deg. C. Add (B) to (A) with agitation and immediately add (C). Stir to 50 deg. C and pour into molds. Oil-In-Water Antiperspirant Lotion Ingredients:
%W/W
A
0.50 3.00
Cetyl alcohol Arlamol E Brij 72 Brij 721
2.00 1.00
B
Water *Preservative
58.50
C
Aluminum chlorhydroxide, 50% aqueous solution
35.00
*q.s. these ingredients. Procedure: Heat (A) to 85 deg. C and (B) to 85 deg. C. Add (B) to (A) while stirring. Mix while cooling to 40 deg. C. Add (C) and continue mixing until cool. Formula AD-5 Anti-Perspirant Lotion
Ingredients: A Arlacel 165, acid stable g.m.s. Water, deionized B
Alumunum chlorhydroxide complex, 50% solution
%W/W 15.00 45.00 40.00
Procedure: Heat (A) to 7OC. Heat (B) to 72C. Add (B) to (A) with rapid agitation. Cool to room temperature with stirring. SOURCE: ICI Surfactants: Suggested Formulations
Antiperspirants and Deodorants Deodorant
Wt% I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s S o f t i s a n 645 H o s t a p h a t KL 340 N Cetyl alcohol Raluben TL A1 umi num a c e t a t e
6.0 5.0 5.0
B.
Karion F H o s t a c e r i n g e l 1%* Benzyl a l c o h o l Water
5.0 12.0 1.o t o 100.0
C.
Perfume
A.
2.0 0.5 0.5
qs
P r e p a r a t ion : The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e h e a t e d t o 75-BOC. Those o f B . a r e b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and added s l o w l y t o A . w i t h s t i r r i n g . C . i s added a t a p p r o x . 3 0 C . 1.0% * P r e p a r a t i o n o f t h e H o s t a c e r i n g e l : H o s t a c e r i n PN 73 Water t o 100.0% The H o s t a c e r i n i s m i x e d w i t h w a t e r u n t i l homogeneous and t h e mixture s t i r r e d u n t i l the gel i s clear.
Deodorant Stick @ A. M i g l y o l Dynasan Dynasan Imwitor Beeswax
812 114 110 960 f l a k e s
30.0 20.0 18.5 1o;o 20.0
B . Perfume A c t iv e ing r ed ie n t
P r e p a r a t i on : The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e m e l t e d a t 75C and a t a b o u t 40C perfume i s added, t h e m i x i s homogenised and c a s t i n t o moulds.
SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmetics: Formulas
7
8
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Dry Antiperspirant Stick Materials: 1 . Cyclomethicone 2. Stearyl Alcohol 3 . A r l a c e l 165 4 . T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 3328 5 . Bentone Gel VS-5 R h e o l o g i c a l A d d i t i v e 6 . Aluminum C h l o r o h y d r a t e ( M i c r o n i z e d ) 7. Talc 8 . Fragrance
% bv W e i g h t
39.7 22.0 2.0 0.2 10.0 25.0 1.o 0.1
Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s Heat t h e C y c l o m e t h i c o n e t o 65C. B . W i t h s t i r r i n g , s l o w l y add i n g r e d i e n t 2, m a i n t a i n i n g t h e tempe r a t u r e a t 65C t h r u s t e p E. C . When a l l o f i n g r e d i e n t 2 i s m e l t e d , add i n g r e d i e n t s 3 and 4 . M i x f o r 15 m i n u t e s . D . Add Bentone Gel VS-5 R h e o l o g i c a l A d d i t i v e and mix f o r 30 minutes. E . Add i n g r e d i e n t s 6 and 7 , m i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s . F . A l l o w t h e b a t c h t o c o o l t o 55C, add F r a g r a n c e , m i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s and p o u r i n t o s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r s . Formula TS-289
A.
Quick Drying Roll-On Antiperspirant Materials: 1 . Bentone Gel VS-5 R h e o l o g i c a l A d d i t i v e 2 . Cyclomethicone 3 . SDA A l c o h o l 40 4 . Isopropyl Myristate 5. Aluminum C h l o r o h y d r a t e 6 . Fragrance
% bv Wei q h t
15.0
54.0 3.0 2.0 25.0 1.o
Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : A . Combine t h e Bentone Gel VS-5 w i t h i n g r e d i e n t s 2 and 3 u s i n g vigorous a g i t a t i o n . Mix u n t i l uniform. B . Add i n g r e d i e n t 4 , t h e n i n g r e d i e n t 5 , w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n . M i x u n t i l t h e powder i s u n i f o r m l y d i s t r i b u t e d . C . Add i n g r e d i e n t 6 . Formula TS-288
SOURCE: Rheox, I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Antiperspirants and Deodorants
Dry
9
Roll-On Antiperspirant
Materials: 1 . Bentone Gel I P M r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 2 . SDA 40 3. I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e 4 . Cyclomethicone 5 . A1 umi num C h l o r o h y d r a t e 6 . Fragrance
% by Weiqht 15.0 3.0
2.0 54.0 25.0 1. o
Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Combine t h e Bentone Gel IPM a d d i t i v e w i t h i n g r e d i e n t s 2 , 3 and o n e - h a l f o f i n g r e d i e n t 4 i n a m i x i n g k e t t l e . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g p o r t i o n o f i n g r e d i e n t 4, c o n t i n u e m i x i ng. 2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t 5 w i t h a g i t a t i o n , s t i r r i n g until t h e powder i s uniformly distributed. 3 . Add t h e f r a g r a n c e , m i x , f i l l u n i t s . F o r m u l a TS-237 Talc Spray Antiperspirant M a t e r i a1 s : 1 . Bentone Gel IPM r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 2 . SDA 40 3 . Isopropyl Myri s t a t e 4 . Cyclomethicone 5 . Aluminum C h l o r o h y d r a t e 6. Talc 7 . Fragrance 8 . P r o p e l l a n t A-46
% b y Wei q h t 8.0 2.0 1.5 5.0 6.0 2.0 0.5 75.00
Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s 1 t h r o u g h 4 and t h o r o u g h l y m i x u s i n g medium shear e q u i p m e n t . 2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s 5 and 6 a t a s l o w r a t e and m i x i n t h o r o u g h l y . 3 , Add f r a g r a n c e and m i x . 4. F i l l , vacuum c r i m p and gas a e r o s o l u n i t s . F o r m u l a TS-245
SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
IO
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
General Purpose Stick Formulation-1 Ingredients; A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A A c e t y l a t e d Lanol i n A l c o h o l O z o k e r i t e (170D)** Mineral O i l (70 ss)*** Span 60 Cloud P o i n t , C :
wt% 8
*
16 16 55 5
80 General Purpose Stick Formulation-2
Inaredients: P o l y e t h y e l e n e 617A Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol* O z o k e r i t e (170D)** M i n e r a l O i l (70 s s ) * * * Span 60
E % 7 14 14 60 5
A-C
Cloud P o i n t , C :
76
Procedure: Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n 2-5C above i t s c l o u d p o i n t u n t i l s o l u t i o n t u r n s c l e a r . Around 60-70C, add perfume, aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . D e a e r a t e and package. Manufacturers: Malmstrom Chemical, A c e t o l , o r Amerchol, A c e t u l a n Ross Wax o r e q u i v a l e n t W i t c o Chemical , C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 , o r e q u i Val e n t
* ** ***
Stick Antiperspirant Ingredients: 1 . A-C 400 2 . Isopropyl Palmitate 3 . Dow C o r n i n g S i 1 i c o n e 344 4. S t e a r y l A l c o h o l 5 . A1 umi num Chl o r o h y d r a t e 6 . Perfume
Parts, W t . 15 50 15 20 15
Q.S
Procedure: Weigh 1 - 4 and h e a t u n t i l A-C 400 has d i s s o l v e d o r m e l t e d . S t i r u n t i l wax b l e n d i s u n i f o r m . Add 5 and s t i r i n . Cool m i x t u r e down t o 55C and add Perfume.
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Antiperspirants and Deodorants
11
Roll-On Antiperspirant T h i s l o w v i s c o s i t y e m u l s i o n i s s t a b i l i z e d w i t h Veegum HV w h i c h a l s o p r o v i d e s moderate t h i c k e n i n g and e x c e l l e n t , d r y a f t e r - f e e l . The A l u m i n u m / Z i r c o n i u m Complex has h i g h e r a n t i p e r s p i r a n t e f f i c a c y t h a n a1 umi num c h l o r o h y d r a t e . Inaredient: Veegum H V , Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e Dei o n i zed Water
A
% bv W t .
1.oo 29.00
B
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-I00 S t e a r a t e ( 2 )
C
Aluminum Z i r c o n i u m T e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x GLY, 30% S o l n . ( 3 ) 3 3 . 0 0 5.50 Aluminum C h l o r i d e , 32 Baume S o l n . Aluminum C h l o r h y d r a t e , 50% S o l n . ( 4 ) 16.50
D
Cyclomethicone ( 5 )
E
Fragrance, (2) (3) (4) (5)
8.00
7.00
Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e
q.s.
A r l a c e l 165 Rezal 36G C h l o r h y d r o l , 50% S o l u t i o n R h o d o r s i l 700 45V2
Preparation: Add Veegum HV t o w a t e r a t 75C and m i x w i t h maximum a v a i l a b l e shear u n t i l smooth, u n i f o r m and c o m p l e t e l y f r e e o f u n d i s p e r s e d p a r t i c l e s . I n a n o t h e r c o n t a i n e r , h e a t B t o 75C. Heat C t o 55C i n a t h i r d c o n t a i n e r . Add B t o A w i t h s l o w m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add C t o A&B. M i x a t s l o w speed u n t i l t h e t e m p e r a t u r e reaches 2%. Add D and homogenize f o r 5 m i n u t e s . A d d E . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m and package. Consistency: V i s c o s i t y measured a f t e r 30 days a t room t e m p e r a t u r e i s 600800 c p s . Suggested P a c k a g i n g : R o l l - O n C o n t a i n e r s Comments: T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o s e r v e as a g u i d e f o r t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.
SOURCE:
R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co.,
I n c , : Formula No. 4 4 3
I2
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Roll-On Antiperspirant Inaredients: A Arlamol E B r i j 721 B r i j 72 B Water, d e i o n i z e d A1 1 a n t i on C Aluminum Z i r c o n i u m T e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x G l y , W i c k e n o l 386 D *Perfume and P r e s e r v a t i v e *q. s
I
4.00 0.75 3.25 34.55 0.20 57.25
t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and (5) t o 65C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) u s i n g p r o p e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t a b o u t 50C and ( 0 ) a t a b o u t 45C. Add w a t e r a t 35C t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Package, Quick Dry Roll-On Lotion Inaredients: Cyclomethicone B r i j 72 B r i j 721 B Water, de4 o n i zed C Aluminum c h l o r h y d r a t e , D *Perfume
%m
A
*q.s.
50% aqueous s o l u t i o n
10.00 2.00 0.70 52.30 35.00
these ingredients.
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and (B) to 72C. Add (B) to (A) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g and s l o w l y add t h e r e m a i n d e r o f in g r e d i e n t s , Clear Roll-On A.P. Lotion
In u r e d i e n t s : A B C
Ethyl alcohol H y d r o x y p r o p y l c e l l u l o s e , K1 u c e l GF Arlamol E Aluminum chlorhydroxide-propylene g l y c o l complex
%m
69.00 1 .oo 10 00 20 00
Procedure: M i x ( A ) t h o r o u g h l y u s i n g h i g h s h e a r i f n e c e s s a r y . Add A r amo 1 E and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. Add (C) and s t i r u n t i l c l e a r .
SOURCE:
I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Antiperspirants and Deodorants
13
Spray Powder Anti-Perspirant Inqredients: ( 1 ) E t h a n o l ( S D 40) ( 2 ) Bentone Gel I P M (3) Isopropyl Myri s t a t e ( 4 ) Cyclomethicone ( 5 ) Aluminum C h l o r o h y d r a t e ( 6 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC ( 7 ) Fragrance ( 8 ) P r o p e l l a n t A46
% by Weight
2.0 8.0 1.5 5.0 6.0 2.0 0.5 75.0
Procedure: Add ( 1 ) t o ( 2 ) and m i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s . Add ( 5 ) and m i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s . A t h i g h speed, add ( 3 ) , ( 4 ) , ( 6 ) , and ( 7 ) . M i x w i t h ( 8 ) and f i l l . F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used. Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d be used when h a n d l i n g flammable i n g r e d i e n t s .
SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e , I n c . :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n Deodorant Stick % bv Weight 8.00
Stearic Acid Ethanol P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Isopropyl Palmitate Phosphol ip i d PTC Sodi um H y d r o x i de 50%
74.13 10.00 5.00 0.50 2.37
Procedure: B l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r e x c e p t t h e sodium h y d r o x i d e . Heat and a g i t a t e t o 65-70C, t h e n s l o w l y n e u t r a l i z e t h e s t e a r i c a c i d w i t h t h e sodium h y d r o x i d e 50% and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Cool s l i g h t l y t o 70C. Add f r a g r a n c e and c o l o r , and package. P r o p e r t i es : P h y s i c a l Appearance:
Translucent S o l i d
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
14
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Stick Formulation 15 1 . A-C Copolymer 400 2. Isopropyl- Myri s t a t e 50 3 . Dow 344 F l u i d 15 4. S t e a r y l Alcohol 20 Procedure: Weigh a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t w i t h a g i t a t i o n . The c l o u d p o i n t o f t h i s b l e n d i s 72C. Above t h e c l o u d , t h e p o l y e t h y l e n e w i l l eventually d i s s o l v e i n t h e blend. I f a higher s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n i s much f a s t e r . Care must be t a k e n , however, n o t t o v o l a t i l i z e t h e Dow 344 F l u i d . When a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e d i s s o l v e d , add 15% aluminum c h l o r h y d r a t e and q u i c k c o o l , w i t h a g i t a t i o n , t o 45C. Pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r and a l l o w t o cool f u r t h e r . R e f : 5189-12-2 Stick Formulation W B
A-C 400 2-Ethyl Hexyl S t e a r a t e Myris t y l Myri state D o w C o r n i n g C344 C e t y l A1 coho1 Span 65
20 43 18 16 2.5 0.5
Stick Formulation *W
A - C 400 2-Ethyl Hexyl S t e a r a t e Myri s t y l Myri s t a t e D o w C o r n i n g C344 G l y c e r o l Mono S t e a r a t e Cetyl Alcohol Span 65
20 40 18 16 3 2.5 0.5
Stick Formulation W B
R762D Isopropyl Palmitate Dow C o r n i n g 344 S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( A l f o l 18)
15 45 15 25
Procedure: The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e mixed and h e a t e d u n t i l t h e y f o r m a c l e a r s o l u t i o n . C l o u d p o i n t o f t h i s s t i c k i s 76C. I t can be p o u r e d a t 65C. Antiperspirant Stick: For a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s t i c k t o t h i s base f o r m u l a t i o n add 25% aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e ( p a r t i c l e s i z e 1 2 ) and m i x i n h o t . Perfume i s added j u s t p r i o r t o p o u r i n g . Deodorant S t i c k : F o r d e o d o r a n t s t i c k t o t h i s base f o r m u l a t i o n , add d e o d o r a n t 1% j u s t p r i o r t o p o u r i n g . SOURCE: A1 1ied S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested Formul a t ions
Section II
Baby Products
15
16
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Baby Bath A. M a r l i n a t Marlinat Ampholyt Marlamid Water
% 22 20.0 12.0 2.0 t o 100.0
.o
242/28 CM 1 0 5 JB 130 M 1218
B. Camomile S p e c i a l
0.5 1. o qs qs qs
Avocado S p e c i a l Perfume Preservative Magnesium s u l p h a t e x 7H20
Preparation: The components u n d e r A . a r e added t o g e t h e r i n sequence, warmed and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The components i n B . a r e added t o A. a t a p p r o x . 30C. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .
Baby Bath %
M a r l i n a t 242/28 Ampholyt JB 130 M a r l i n a t SL 3/40 D i o n i l OC/K L i me B1 ossom S p e c i a1 Camomi l e Speci a1 Perfume Colour Preservative Water
.o
21 17.0 8.0 3.0 0.5 0.5 qs
qs qs t o 100.0
P r e p a r a t i o n: The components a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Baby Products
17
Baby Lotion Mousse Phase A : I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS P o l awax C r o d a c o l S-95 Crodamol PMP Crodamol PTC Carnation M i neral O i 1 Protopet 1s Petrolatum D i m e t h i c o n e 35 c s ( 2 0 0 f l )
%(W/W)
1 .17 1.oo 0.33
1 .OO 0.67 1-00 2.00 0.50
Phase 6 : Water, d e i o n i z e d G1 y c e r i ne Germaben I 1 Procedure: Combine " A " S l o w l y add " B " c o n t a i n e r s and F i l l ratio:
83.33 8.00 1.oo
and h e a t t o 75C. Combine " 5 " and h e a t t o 75C. t o "A" w i t h m i x i n g . Cool. F i l l i n t o aerosol add p r o p e l l a n t (pH 5 . 7 ) . C o n c e n t r a t e 95%, P r o p e l l a n t A31 5%. Baby Oil
Ingredients: 1 . C a r n a t i o n , L i g h t M i n e r a l O i 1 NF 2. R i t a l a n 3. Ritacetyl 4. Propylparaben 5 . Perfume
w
Q S I O O . 00 5.00 2.50 0.10
QS
Manufacturing Procedure: Weigh and add a l l t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a c o n t a i n e r and b e g i n s t i r r i n g w h i l e warming, u n t i l a l l i n g r e d i e n t s w h i c h a r e s o l i d s a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e s have m e l t e d ( a p p r o x i m a t e l y 5 5 C ) . S t i r u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous and b e g i n c o o l i n g . S t i r c o n t i n u o u s l y , a l l o w t o r e m a i n u n d i s t u r b e d f o r 2 4 h o u r s , and f i l t e r . Baby Oil Inaredients: 1 . C a r n a t i o n , L i g h t M i n e r a l O i 1 NF 2 . R i t a l a n "C" 3 . Perfume 4 . Propylparaben
w
Q S l O O . 00 1.oo OS 0.10
M a n u f a c t u r i n g Procedure: Weigh and add #1 i n t o a c o n t a i n e r and b e g i n s t i r r i n g . Add #2, 3 and 4 and m i x u n t i l a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n o c c u r s . F i l t e r , i f n e c e s s a r y , and package f i l l i n t o s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r s . SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: SuggeOted Formulations
18
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Baby Shampoo T h i s baby shampoo f e a t u r e s C r o v o l A-70 and C r o s u l t a i n e C-50, n a t u r a l d e r i v e d s u r f a c t a n t s which g i v e t h i s formula i t s mildness. U s i n g a f r a g r a n c e w i t h a " b a b y - f r e s h f f s m e l l adds t o i t s a p p e a l . Inqredients: Part A: SLES ( 3 m o l e ) C r o s u l t a i n e C-50 D e i o n i z e d Water
% (Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e )
P a r t B: C r o v o l A-70 (PEG-60 Almond G l y c e r i d e s ) C r o t h i x * (PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e ) P a r t C: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben** F l o r a s y n t h A65697 (Powder Type)
20.0 12.0 51.3 15.0 0.5
1.o 0.2
Procedure: Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 65C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH i f needed w i t h a 10% HC1 aqueous s o l u t i on. Cool w i t h m i x i ng t o d e s i r e d f i 11 t e m p e r a t u r e . V i s c o s i t y : 5,OOOcps+-lO% (@25C) pH: 7.0+-0.5 N . A . T . C . Approved **Germaben I 1 *The use o f C r o t h i x i n c o s m e t i c and o t h e r f o r m u l a t i o n s i s c o v e r e d under U . S . P a t e n t # 5 , 1 9 2 , 4 6 2 .
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t l o n SH-86 Baby Shampoo Mackadet BSC (Baby Shampoo C o n c e n t r a t e ) M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) C i t r i c A c i d t o pH = 6.5-7.0 Sodium C h l o r i d e qs t o v i s c o s i t y = 2000 cps Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o
Wei a h t ,% 20.0 q.s.
100.0
Procedure: 1. Add M a c k s t a t BSC t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 40 degrees C . 2 . Add M a c k s t a t DM. 3. A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d and v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . 4 . Add dye, f r a g r a n c e and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Baby Products
19
Baby Shampoo
Wt% A.
0.
M a r l i n a t CM 105 M a r l in a t 243/28 Amphol y t JA 140 Glucamate DOE 120 Water
55.0
14.0 7.0 qs t o 100.0
Lime-blossom S p e c i a l Camomi l e Speci a1 Perfume Preservative
Preparation: The c o n s t i t u e n t s of A . a r e b r o u g h t t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d w h i l e warm u n t i l homogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s o f B . a r e added t o A . a t a p p r o x . 3 0 C . The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 6 . Baby Shampoo
Wt% M a r l in a t 242/28 Amphol y t JA 140 Ampholyt J B 130 S o f t i g e n 767 Lamepon S Camomi 1e Speci a1 L i me-bl ossom Speci a1 Preservative A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d Water
29.0 7.5 10.0 3.0 5.0
1. o 1. o qs qs
t o 100.0
Preparation: The components a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The p H i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
SOURCE:
H u l s America I n c . :
Formulations f o r Cosmetics:
Formulas
20
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Baby Shampoo
%w/w
Inqredients: Tween 20 Cocoamphodiacetate Sodi um l a u r y l s u l f a t e Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e PEG-1 50 d i s t e a r a t e Propylene g l y c o l Water
6.00 6.00 3.00 3.00 4.00 3.00 75.00
A
B
*Citric acid * q . s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s
Procedure: M i x ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g and h e a t u n t i l homogeneous. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 t o 5 . 5 w i t h ( B ) . Baby Shampoo Inaredients: G-4280 Sodi urn t r i d e c e t h s u l f a t e Laurarnphodi a c e t a t e Cocamidopropyl h y d r o x y s u l t a i ne Sodi urn 1 a u r e t h - 1 3 c a r b o x y l a t e Water *Preservative
A
B
PEG-150 d i s t e a r a t e
C
* C i t r i c acid *q.s.
%w/w 20.00 12.00 5.00
2.50 2.00 53.50
5.00
these ingredients.
Procedure: M i x ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g and h e a t u n t i l homogeneous. Heat t o a r o u n d 60C and add ( B ) and c o n t i n u i n g s t i r r i n g . When c l e a r , c o o l and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 8 w i t h ( C ) .
SOURCE:
IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Baby Products
21
Baby Shampoos B 42/6: Z e t e s o l MS Amphotensid GB 2009 P u r t o n SFD Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e , preservative
25.0% 9.0% 2.0% q.s.
t o make 100.0%
0 42/7: Z e t e s o l MS Z e t e s o l 2056 P u r t o n CFD Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e
27.0% 7.0% 2.0% 0.3% 2.0% 9 , s . t o make 100.0%
Baby Foam B a t h s B 70/139: Z e t e s o l MS P u r t o n SFD Water, perfume, preservative
43.0% 1 .O% sodium c h l o r i d e , 9 , s . to make 100.0%
B 70/129: E x t r a k t 52 24.0% 1.0% P u r t o n SFD Herbaliquid Kamille Spezial 5.0% q . s . t o make 100.0% Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e A d j u s t m e n t t o a p p r o x . pH 7 by l a c t i c a c i d o r c i t r i c a c i d
0 70/101 : Amphotensid 9 M 40 0% S e t a c i n 103 S p e z i a l 20 0% P u r t o n CFD 2.0% M u l s i f a n RT 203/80 3.0% Oxypon 2145 1.0% Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e q : s . t o make 100.0% A d j u s t m e n t t o pH 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 b y l a c t i c o r c i t r i c a c i d I
0
SOURCE: Zschimmmer & Schwarz GmbH & C o . :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
22
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Tear Free Baby Bath Wei a h t ,% Mackam 2C (Cocoamvhodiacetate) 35.0 Mackol 70NS (Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ) 5.5 Mackam 35HP (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) 6.0 Mackanate DC-30 ( D i s o d i u m D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) 4.0 Mackam CET ( C e t y l B e t a i n e ) 1.5 0.7 Paragon (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben) C i t r i c A c i d 9 , s . t o pH 5.0-5.5 Water q . s . t o 100.0 Procedure: 1 . B l e n d components and h e a t t o 50C. 2 . When p r o d u c t i s c l e a r a d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 - 5 . 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d pH: 5 . 3 V i s c o s i t y ( c p s , 25C): 500 c p s Formula BN-l27C Baby Wipes P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Mackam 2C (Cocoamphodiacetate) Paragon (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben) C i t r i c Acid q.s. t o Fhgrance Water q . s . t o Procedure: 1 . B l e n d components u n t i l c l e a r . 2. A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . T h i s s o l u t i o n i s combined w i t h baby w i p e t i s s u e s . m i l d t o s k i n and eyes.
Wei a h t ,% 4.0 2.0 q.s. pH=6.0 q.s. 100.0
It i s very
Mild Children's Bubble Bath Mackanate EL ( D i s o d i u m L a u r e t h S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) Mackanate CP ( D i s o d i um Cocami do M I P A S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (30%) N a t r o s o l 250HHR M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, F r a g r a n c e , Dye qs t o Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e N a t r o s o l 250HHR i n c o l d w a t e r . 2. B l e n d u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e s r s e d . 3 . Heat t o 40 degrees C . and add r e m a i n i n g components. 4. Blend u n t i l c l e a r . 5 . Cool and f i l l .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . :
P e r s o n a l Care F o r m u l a r y
Wei a h t , % 10.0 10.0
9.0
1 .o qs
100.0
Section III Bath and Shower Products
23
24
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Aerosol Bath Oil
w
Insredients: A Oleyl alcohol A t l a s G-1795 A l c o h o l , SDA No. 40 Perfume B
15.00 1 .oo 52.00 2.00
P r o p e l 1a n t 12/114 ( 5 7 / 4 3 )
30.00
Procedure: Heat ( A ) and ( B ) t o 9OC. Add (B) t o ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Cool t o 70C and add ( C ) . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m and p o u r w h i l e s t i l l fluid. Dispersible Bath Oil Inaredients: M i n e r a l o i 1, 81 andol A c t i v e #4 B r i j 93 Foam s t a b i l i z e r , N i n o l AA-62 Perfume
Extra
60.00 20.00 13.00 2.00 5.00
Procedure: M i x a l l i n g r e d i e n t s . Use s l i g h t h e a t i f n e c e s s a r y and s t i r . F i 1t e r if n e c e s s a r y . Bath Gel Innredients: G-9600 NaCl *Color Fragrance Preservative Water *q.s.
these ingredients.
Procedure: M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
w 35.00 0.80 0.20 0.10 63.90
Bath and Shower Products
Bath Gelee with Natural Lipid Protein Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (60%) Mackamide CS (Cocamide DEA) Mackanate CP ( D i s o d i u m Cocamido M I P A S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ) (Natural L i p i d Protein) M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o
Wei a h t .% 20.0 20.0 20.0
4.0 qs 100.0
Procedure: 1 . Add Mackamide CS t o sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e and b l e n d . 2 . Add r e m a i n i n g components and h e a t t o 45 degrees C . 3 . B l e n d u n t i l homogenous and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c acid. 4 . Cool and f i l l . Bath Gelee Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (60%) Mackamide C (Cocamide DEA) Mackanate EL ( D i s o d i um L a u r e t h S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) L a c t i c A c i d t o pH = 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Dye, F r a g r a n c e , qs t o
Weiqht ,% 34.6 20.0 45.0
qs 100.0
Procedure: 1 . Add components i n o r d e r and h e a t t o 45 degrees C . 2 . 61 end u n t i 1 homogeneous. 3 . A d j u s t pH w i t h l a c t i c a c i d . 4 . Add f r a g r a n c e and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Emollient Bath Gelee Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (60%) Mackamide LLM (Lauramide DEA) Mackanate EL ( D i s o d i um L a u r e t h S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) Mackanate WGD ( D i s o d i u m Wheatgermamido PEG-2 Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o
Wei a h t . % 20.0 20.0
Procedure: 1 . Add Mackamide LLM t o sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e . 2. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g components and h e a t t o 45 degrees C . 3 . 81 end u n t i 1 homogeneous. 4 . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 5 . Cool and f i l l .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . :
P e r s o n a l Care F o r m u l a r y
20.0 10.0 qs 100.0
25
26
Cosmetic and T o i l e 0 Formulations
Bath Milk A.
5.0 15.0 10.0 8.0
I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s M i g l y o l 812 M i g l y o l 840 M a r l o p h o r T 1 0 Na S a l t
3.0 t o 100.0
6 . Glycerol Water C.
E x t r a p o n Hamamelis Spec. Perfume Preservative
1.o qs qs
Preparation: The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and h e a t e d t o 75-8OC. 6 . i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . C . i s added a t 30C. Washing Lotion %
M a r l in a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 105 D i o n i l OC/K M a r l a m i d PG 20 Perfume Colour Preservative NaCl Water
.o
22 6.0
3.0 3.0 qs qs
qs qs t o 100.0
Preparation: The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
SOURCE:
Huls America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Bath and Shower Products
27
Bath Oil, De Luxe with Plant Oils % A.
M i g l y o l 812 M i g l y o l 840 S o f t i g e n 767 S o f t i s a n 645 Soya bean o i l H o s t a p h a t K L 340 N Colour Antioxidants Perfume
15.6 15.0 10.0 10.0 37.0 13.0 qs qs qs
V i s c o s i t y : v e r y l o w - v i scous Preparation: A l l t h e components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r and s t i r r e d a t room t e m p e r a t u r e u n t i l homogeneous. Foam Bath with Almond Oil %
A . M a r l o w e t OA 4/1 Isopropyl myristate Almond o i l B . M a r l i n a t 242/70 G l y c e r o l DAB 9 M a r l a m i d DF 1218 Water C . Perfume Preservative
30.6 22.0
8.0 25.0 10,o
3.0 t o 100.0 qs
as
P r e p a r a t i on : Heat A . and B . t o 70-75C. Add B . s l o w l y t o A . w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add p e r f u m e and p r e s e r v a t i v e a t 30C. Foam Bath Oil
s/, A . M a r l o w e t R 11/K P i ne-need1 e o i 1 B. M a r l i n a t 242/70 L i p o x o l 600 MED Water C. P r e s e r v a t i v e
30.0 30.0 11 .o 13.0 t o 100.0 qs
Preparation: Heat A . and B . t o 7 0 - 7 5 C . Add B. s l o w l y t o A . w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add p e r f u m e and p r e s e r v a t i v e a t 30C.
SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Suggeted F o r m u l a t i o n s
28
Cosmetic and Toileoy Formulations
Bubble Bath & Bath Oil
w 4.40
Inaredients: A F r a g r a n c e 2991 H, I F F I n c . Tween 20 Foaming a g e n t , L a n t h a n o l LAL
22.20 10.00
B
Water,
62.20
C
Foam s t a b i l i z e r , Preservative
d e i o n i zed
Procedure: Add (B) t o ( A ) w i t h s l i g h t heat t the f i n a l product citric. Filter if
N i n o l AA-62 E x t r a
1-00 0.20
w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) w i t h s t i r r i n g o f a c i l i t a t e s o l u t i o n when n e c e s s a r y . A d j u s t t o a pH o f l e s s t h a n 7 . 0 w i t h an a c i d such as necessary. Bubble Bath
w
Insredients:
20.00
G-9600
0.90 7.00
NaCl Sulfo succinate Fragrance Preservative *Color Water
0.20
0.10 71.80
*q. s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . Bubble Bath Insredi ents: A T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e l a u r y l s u l f a t e , M a p r p f o x TLS-500 Coconut f a t t y a c i d d i e t h a n o l a m i d e , Super Amide L-9
B
Perfume
C
Water, d e i o n i z e d Propylene g l y c o l
w
20 IO0 7.50 5.00 57.50
5.00
Procedure: Warm ( A ) and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . Cool and add p e r f u m e , s t i r r i n g u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add (C) and s t i r .
SOURCE:
IC1
Surfactants:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Bath and Shower Products
29
Clear Gel T h i s c l e a r g e l i s a c l a s s i c f o r m u l a t h a t i s based on V o l p o and C r o d a f o s s u r f a c t a n t s . I t e x h i b i t s t h e " r i n g i n g g e l " phenomenon, c h a r a c t e r i s t i c o f meny c l e a r m i c r o e m u l s i o n s . T h i s e f f e c t i s a c h i e v e d by a system o f w a t e r , o i l and s u r f a c t a n t f o r m u l a t e d i n a r a t i o t h a t f o r m s a r i g i d m i c e l l e s t r u c t u r e . The V o l p o s and C r o d a f o s e s a r e used a s c o - e m u l s i f i e r s . ( F o r l a b o r a t o r y p r e p a r a t i o n , a minimum b a t c h s i z e o f 400 grams i s recommended because t h e y c o o l s l o w e r , a l l o w i n g more t i m e b e f o r e t h e s e t p o i n t temperature i s reached). Ingredients: Part A: Dei o n i zed w a t e r 54.0 Propylene Glycol 12.0 P a r t B: C r o d a f o s N3 N e u t r a l (DEA O l e t h - 3 Phosphate) 2.0 C r o d a f o s N10 N e u t r a l (DEA O l e t h - 1 0 Phosphate) 4.0 Volpo 5 ( O l e t h - 5 ) 4.0 Volpo 3 (Oleth-3) 7.0 17.0 M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 90-95C. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 90-95C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l tempe r a t u r e ( a b o v e s e t p o i n t ) . S e t p o i n t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 85C. N . A . T . C . Approved F o r m u l a CG-8R High Foaming Shower Gel T h i s f o r m u l a uses an o p t i m i z e d c o m b i n a t i o n o f C r o s u l t a i n e C-50, I n c r o d e t TD-7C and SLES ( 3 m o l e ) t o p r o d u c e a c l e a r , h i g h f o a m i n g , l o w c o l o r , and l o w o d o r b a t h and shower g e l . C r o t h i x i s used t o p r o v i d e t h e body and v i s c o s i t y seen i n t h e f o r m u l a , and C r o v o l A-70 i s u s e d t o s o l u b i l i z e t h e f r a g r a n c e and maintain the c l a r i t y o f the product. Inqredients: Part A: SLES ( 3 m o l e ) 20.0 I n c r o d e t TD-7C ( T r i d e c e t h - 7 C a r b o x y l i c A c i d ) 7.0 20.0 C r o s u l t a i n e C-50 ( C o c a m i d o p r o p y l H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e ) D i s o d i um EDTA 0.1 Deionized water 48.3 1. o Germaben I 1 P a r t B: C r o t h i x (PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h i t y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e ) 1. o C r o v o l A-70 (PEG-60 Almond G l y c e r i d e s ) 2.0 BHT 0.1 Part C: Perfume (BBA 860753) 0.5 Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Combi ne i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 65-7OC. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add P a r t C t o P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g . When c l e a r , add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH w i t h 10% NaOH s o l u t i o n . F o r m u l a BP-41 SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
30
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Foam Baths, Clear 0 70/136: Z e t e s o l NL P u r t o n SFD Water, perfume, preservative
46.0% 2.0% sodium c h l o r i d e , q . s t o make 100.0%
B 70/123: Z e t e s o l 2056 P u r t o n CFD Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e , preservative
27.0% 2.0% q . s . t o make 100.0%
B 70/117: Z e t e s o l 856T S e t a c i n 103 S p e z i a l Oxypon 2145 Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e , preservative
q . s . t o make 100.0%
0 70/148: Z e t e s o l 2056 Oxypon 288 Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e
40.0% 2.0% 1.5% q . s . t o make 100.0%
B 70/161: Z e t e s o l 856 T Oxypon 328 Jojoba o i l P u r t o n CFD Perfume Water, sodium c h l o r i d e ,
35.0% 4.5% 0.5% 2.0% 1 .O% q . s . t o make 100.0%
preservative
35 0% 5.0% 2.0%
Foam Baths, Pearlescent B 71/16: Z e t e s o l 2056 P e r l g l anzmi t t e l GM 41 75 Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e
871 / 4 : Z e t e s o l 856T S e t a c i n 103 S p e z i a l P e r g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055 Oxypon 2145 Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e
27.0% 3.0% 0.8% 2.5% q . s . t o make 100.0% 37.0% 6.0% 7.5%
3.0% q.s.
t o make 100.0%
SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & C o . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Bath and Shower Products
31
Herbal Foam Bath A.
M a r l o n PS 65 M a r l in a t 242/28 D i o n i l OC/K Ampholyt J B 130 M a r l i n a t CM 105 Water
B.
Perfume Extrapon 3-Special Preservative Col o u r NaCl
5.0 35.0 3.0 10.0 9.0 t o 100.0
qs 2.0 qs qs qs
Preparation : The components u n d e r A . a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d w h i l e warmed u n t i l homogeneous. The components u n d e r 6 . a r e added t o t h o s e o f A . a t a b o u t 30C. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5.5-6.6. Foam Bath, Transparent %
M a r l in a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t SL 3/40 M a r l a m i d DF 1218 Magnesium s u l p h a t e x 7H20 Perfume Colour Preservative NaCl Water
35.5 10.0 2.0 0.5 qs qs qs qs t o 100.0
P r e p a r a t i o n: The components a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Suggested Formul a t i ons
32
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Mild Shower Gel %
22.0 M a r l in a t 242/28 6.0 M a r l i n a t DFN 30 16.0 Ampholyt JB 130 5.0 Lamepon S 2.0 Camomi l e Speci a1 Perfume qs Colour qs Preservative qs A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d qs t o 100.0 Water P r e p a r a t i o n: The components a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous . The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . Shower Bath Gel with Pearl Lustre % 43.0 M a r l i n a t 242/28 10.0 M a r l i n a t CM 1 0 5 5.0 M a r l i n a t S L 3/40 3.0 D i o n i l OC/K 3.0 M a r l amid PG20 0.2 Panthenol Perfume qs Colour qs Preservative qs NaCl qs t o 100.0 Water Procedure: The components a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
Clear, Mild to the Skin Shower Bath 18.0 Ampholyt JB 130 14.0 M a r l i n a t 242/28 11 - 0 M a r l i n a t SL 3/40 1.5 D i o n i l OC/K Perfume qs Colour qs Preservative qs NaCl qs t o 100.0 Water Preparation: The components a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 6 - 6 . 5 .
SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
33
Bath and Shower Products
Refreshing Shower Gel %
M a r l i n a t CM 105 M a r l i n a t DFK 3 0 Ampholyt JB 130 D i o n i l OC/K Rosemary S p e c i a l Stinging N e t t l e Special Hamamel i s Speci a1 M a r l o w e t R40/K Menthol Perfume Colour Preservative A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d Water
32.0 17.0 11.5 2.0 0.5 0.5 0.5 1.o 0.5 qs
qs qs qs
t o 100.0
Preparation: The components a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The p H i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . Shower Gel M a r l in a t 2 4 2 / 2 8 M a r l i n a t S L 3/40 Ampholyt J A 140 D i o n i l OC/K P e r f ume Colour Preservative NaCl Water Preparation: The components a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
SOURCE:
H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
34
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shower Bath for Everyday Use
% 35.0 16.0 8.0 2.0 1.o 0.1 0.1 qs qs qs qs t o 100.0
M a r l in a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 1 0 5 Ampholyt J B 130 D i o n i l OC/K M a r l a m i d PG 20 Panthenol Vitamin F Perfume Colour Preservative NaCl Water
P r e p a r a t i on : The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . Mild Foam Bath
% M a r l in a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 10 5 D i o n i l OC/K I v y Special Rosemary S p e c i a l Perfume Colour Preservative NaCl Water
30.0 18.0 3.0 0.3 0.1 qs qs qs qs t o 100.0
P r e p a r a t ion : The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmetics: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Bath and Shower Products
35
Shower Baths, Clear
0 75/26: Z e t e s o l 2056 S e t a c i n 103 S p e z i a l P u r t o n CFD Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e
1.O% 2.5% q . s . t o make 100.0%
0 75/5: Z e t e s o l 856 T Amphotensid G 0 2009 P u r t o n SFD Oxypon 2145 Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e ,
21 - 5 % 8.0% 2.0% 1.0% 1 .O% q . s . t o make 100.0%
25.0%
9.0% 1.0%
sodium c h l o r i d e
Shower Baths, Pearlescent
0 75/6: E x t r a k t 52 P e r l g 7 a n z m i t t e l GM 4055 P u r t o n SFD Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e
42.0% 5.0% 2.0% q . s . t o make 100.0%
0 75/27: Z e t e s o l 2056 Perlglanzmittel P u r t o n CFD Oxypon 2145 Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e ,
27.0% 4.0% 2.0% 1 .O% 1 .O% q.s. t o make 100.0%
GM 4175
water,
0 75/56: Z e t e s o l 856 T P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055 O x e t a l VD 20 Oxypon 2145 Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e
preservative
22.0% 5.0% 2.0% 1 .O% 1.O% q . s . t o make 100.0%
SOURCE: Zschimrner 8 Schwarz GmbH & G o . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
36
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shower Gel Cleanser A g e n t l e f o a m i n g g e l c l e a n s e r d e s i g n e d t o t h o r o u g h l y deep c l e a n s e and r e f r e s h t h e s k i n w i t h o u t d i s t u r b i n g t h e s k i n ' s n a t u r a l moisture balance. % by Weight
I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: Dei o n i zed Water Polyquaternium-10 C i t r i c Acid T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Methylparaben Sodi um P C A / A j idew N-50
50.150 0 * 200 0.100 0.100 0.150 0.500
Part 0 : Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e TEA-Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e / A m i s o f t CT-12 Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e PEG-1 50 D i s t e a r a t e Laurami de DEA
30.000 10.000 5.000 0.700 2.000
Part C: Fragrance/#IY-67 M e t h y l c h l o r o i s o t h i a z o l inone and M e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l inone
0.250 0.050
Part D: Sodium C h l o r i d e
0.800
Procedure: D i s p e r s e Polymer JR-125 i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . Heat t o 70C. Add r e m a i n i n g p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . M i x a t 70C u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous. Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t C . M i x w e l l . Add p a r t D as needed t o in c r e a s e v i s c o s i t y C o n t i nue m i x i ng and c o o l ing t o 35C. Appearance: C l e a r l i q u i d / p H : 5 . 2 0 - 5 . 7 0 / V i s c o s i t y : 4,000-6,000 cps
.
Bath Crystals A g e n t l e m i l k y bath c r y s t a l f o r m u l a t i o n t h a t w i l l r e l a x your senses w i t h t h e aroma o f t h e h o t b a t h s o f Japan. I t w i l l l e a v e y o u r s k i n c l e a n and smooth w h i l e t a k i n g y o u r mind t o f a r and exotic places.
Ingredients: Sodium C h l o r i d e Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e / A m i s o f t CA Fragrance/Takasago C a b o s i l M-5
% b y Weight 86.00 7 IO0 1.50 0.50
B l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s 1 , 2 , 3 . Premix i n g r e d i e n t s 4 and 5 . Add p r e m i x t o p r e - b l e n d and m i x u n t i l homogeneous and u n i f o r m .
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA,
Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Bath and Shower Products
37
Silky Bath Gel R h o d i g e l i s used as a t h i c k e n e r and foam s t a b i l i z e r f o r t h i s s i l k y b a t h g e l f o r m u l a . Vanseal NALS-30 p r o v i d e s foam enhancement and s k i n c o n d i t i o n i n g p r o p e r t i e s . The c o c o a m i d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e and sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e s u r f a c t a n t s p r o v i d e good c l e a n i n g and r i n s i n g p r o p e r t i e s f o r t h i s f o r m u l a . The g l y c e r i n and PPG-3 m y r i s t y l e t h e r a r e e m o l l i e n t s which c o n t r i b u t e t o t h e e l e g a n t after feel. Inqredient : Rhodigel D e i o n i zed Water G1 y c e r i n
‘YO bv W t . 0.50
A
55.00
1 .oo
B
Vanseal NALS-30 Cocoami d o p r o p y l b e t a ne ( 2 ) Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a e ( 3 )
C
PPG-3 m y r i s t y l e t h e r ( 4 ) Preservative, color,
8.00 16.00 16.00
3.50
fragrance
q.s
Lexaine C ( 3 ) S i p o n ES-2 ( 4 ) P r o m y r i s t y l PM-3 (2)
Preparation: Add R h o d i g e l t o t h e w a t e r s l o w l y , w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t h i g h s h e a r . R h o d i g e l w i l l become u n i f o r m l y d i s t r i b u t e d t h r o u g h o u t t h e w a t e r and t h i c k e n i n g w i l l b e g i n . A t t h i s t i m e , a d j u s t t o gentle mixing. Gentle, uniform mixing w i l l s o l u b i l i z e the R h o d i g e l i n t i m e and w i l l a l s o m i n i m i z e a i r e n t r a p m e n t . Add g l y c e r i n and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add A t o 50C and h o l d t h i s t e m p e r a t u r e whi l e a d d i ng remai n i ng i n g r e d i e n t s . Add B in g r e d i e n t s i n order using g e n t l e mixing t o avoid a i r entrapment. Addition o f C w i l l thicken formula t o a gel consistency. Consistency:
Flowable g e l .
( V i s c o s i t y : 8000-10,000
cps)
Suggested P a c k a g i n g : Squeeze b o t t l e o r t u b e . Comment s : T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o s e r v e as a g u i d e f o r t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.
S O U R C E : R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , I n c . : Formula No. 4 2 9
38
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Water White Shower Gel Sandopan DTC a c i d , used as t h e secondary s u r f a c t a n t , c o n t r i b u t e s t o t h e m i l d n e s s o f t h e s u r f a c t a n t system. V e l s a n P8-3 i s an e m o l l i e n t e s t e r t h a t adds a v e l v e t y f e e l t o t h e s k i n . T h i s c r y s t a l c l e a r , w a t e r w h i t e shower g e l - h a s good v i s c o s i t y and foaming c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s .
w
mredients: Standapol ES-3 41 .25 Sandopan DTC A c i d 10.00 Lauramide DEA 3.30 V e l s a n P8-3 2 .oo 1 .70 Glucamate DOE-120 1 .oo Germaben I 1 Versene NA 0.10 Fragrance 0.05 D e i o n i z e d Water qs Procedure: Phase A : H v d r a t e Glucamate DOE-120 and Versene NA i n a l l o f t h e deionized water. Phase B : Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Combine Phase A&B, a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 . P r o p e r t ies : V i s c o s i t y : 8500 c p s % S o l i d s : 29.0% pH: 6 . 0 F o r m u l a t i o n CHS-51 Shower Gel Sandobet SC and Sandopan DTC a c i d c o n t r i b u t e t o t h e m i l d n e s s
of t h e s u r f a c t a n t system and add t o t h e f o a m i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e shower g e l . V e l s a n P8-3 i s an e m o l l i e n t e s t e r t h a t adds a v e l v e t y f e e l t o t h e s k i n . T h i s c r y s t a l c l e a r shower g e l has good v i s c o s i t y and f o a m i n g c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s .
w
Ingredients: S t a n d a p o l ES-3 46.40 Sandobet SC 10.00 5.60 Sandopan DTC A c i d Laurami de DEA 3.30 V e l s a n P8-3 2.00 1.70 Glucamate DOE-120 Germaben I 1 1 .oo Versene NA 0.10 Fragrance 0.05 D e i o n i z e d Water qs Procedure: Phase A : H y d r a t e Glucamate DOE-120 and Versene NA i n a l l o f t h e deionized water, Phase B : Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Combine Phase A&B, a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 F o r m u l a t i o n CHS-52
SOURCE: Sandoz C h e m i c a l s C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Section IV Beauty Aids
39
40
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Aloe Vera Skin Freshner Inpredients: A. Deionized water S t e a r i c a c i d t r i p l e pressed Glycerol
Percent 49.50 18.00 5.00
B . P o t a s s i um h y d r o x i de C.
1.20
5.00 0.25
Deionized water V e r a g e l 200 powder
D . W i t c h Hazel E x t r a c t
Procedure: Heat P a r t A t P a r t A . Cool t o P a r t A and P a r t Package a t room
25.80
o 70C. w i t h s t i r r i n g . S l o w l y add P a r t B t o 40C. w i t h s t i r r i n g . Combine P a r t C and add t o B . Add P a r t D w i t h s t i r r i n g , c o o l t o 25C. temperature.
Powder Mask Activator Inaredients: D e i o n i z e d Water C r o q u a t M (Cocodimonium H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ) I n c r o n a m AL-30 (Almondami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) Honey A l o e Veragel L i q u i d L i p o f r u i t Cucumber Germaben I 1
Percent 95.3 0.5 0.5 1.2 1.o 0.5 1.o
Procedure: D i s s o l v e Germaben I 1 i n w a t e r . When u n i f o r m , add I n c r o n a m AL-30. N e x t d i s s o l v e a l o e , honey and cucumber e x t r a c t . M i x w e l l . Add C r o q u a t M. A d j u s t pH t o pH 4 . 2 + - 0 . 1 w i t h 10% TEA. I m m e d i a t e l y p r i o r t o a p p l i c a t i o n m i x t h e t w o components t o f o r m a t h i c k p a s t e . Recommended u s e 1 : l r a t i o .
SOURCE:
D r . M a d i s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids
41
Blemish/Scar Concealer P r o t o p e t 1S P e t r o l a t u m Carnation M i neral O i 1 Octyldodecanol Ozokerite Phenyldimethicone Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l Synthetic resin Propylparaben Antioxidant Talc C1 ay Silica Titanium dioxide I r o n oxides
9.80% 16.00 6.00 2.50 1 .60 2.00 0.50 0.20 0.10 8.00 8.00 0.30 41 . O O 4.00
Skin Cleanser with Porous Cellulose Particles Beeswax Paraffin P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m Carnation Mineral O i l S o r b i t a n Sesquioleate P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e s o r b i t a n monooleate Water Fragrance Porous C e l l u l o s e p a r t i c l e s
3.00% 5.00 15.00 41 - 0 0 4.20 0.80 25.00 1.oo 5.00
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formul a t ! ons
42
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Body Scrub Ingredients: ( 1 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF g r a d e ) ( 2 ) D e i o n i z e d Water ( 3 ) Beeswax (4) S p e r m a c e t i c , s y n t h e t i c (5) S o r b i t o 1 Monopalymatate ( 6 ) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 (7) Cetyl Alcohol ( 8 ) L i g h t Mineral O i 1 (9) S i l t e x - 50 +lo0 Mesh P r e s e r v a t i v e , C o l o r , & Perfume
% bv W e i g h t
3.0 60.2 1.4
1.4 3.3 3.3 2.8 18.6 6.0 q.s.
Procedure: D i s p e r s e ( 1 ) i n t o ( 2 ) and h e a t t o 70C. I n s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , m i x and h e a t (3), (4), ( 5 ) , (6), (7), and ( 8 ) t o 80C. Add t o w a t e r phase w i t h h i g h a g i t a t i o n . Slow m i x e r and add ( 9 ) . Cool before f i l l i n g containers. F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used. Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d be used when h a n d l i n g flammable ingredients.
Body Powder Inoredients: (1) Zinc Stearate ( 2 ) Z i n c Oxide ( 3 ) Magnesium C a r b o n a t e ( l i g h t ) ( 4 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC ( 5 ) F r a g r a n c e , Pigments, & P r e s e r v a t i v e
% bv Wei Qht
5.0 5.0 15.0 75.0 q.s.
Procedure: M i x f r a g r a n c e w i t h ( 3 ) and a l l o w t o s t a n d f o r a p p r o x i m a t e l y 16 h o u r s . D r y m i x r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s . F o l l o w recommended p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used.
SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids
43
Cheek Rouge M a t e r i a1 s : 1 . M i n e r a l O i l SUS 65/75 2 . C e r a p h y l 368 3 . Castorwax 4. Beeswax 5 . Super Corona L a n o l i n 6. Lexgard P 7 . Bentone Gel M I 0 r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 8 . Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e * 9 . T i m i r o n P e a r l Sheen MP-30 1 0 . T a l c 1623 11 . 3 2 8 T i t a n i um D i o x i d e CTFA 1 2 . C o l o r No. 7055 Pur Oxy Y e l l o w B.C. 1 3 . C o l o r No. 7153 L o - M i c r o n P i n k B.C. 14.Perfume *Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e : C o l o r No. 3121 D & C Red. No. 21 Castor O i l
% b y Weight 17.00
15.00 2.50 6.00 10.00 0.15 15.00 3.00 4.00 18.00 6.00 1.50 1.50 0.35
30.00 70.00
Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 t h r o u g h 5 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d k e t t l e . Heat t o 85C u n t i l m e l t e d c l e a r . 2 . B r i n g t e m p e r a t u r e down t o 80C. Add and m i x i n i t e m 7 u n t i l i t i s homogeneous. M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s . 3 . Add and m i x i t e m 8 f o r 5 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . 4 . Add i t e m s 9 t h r o u g h 1 3 . Add each powder s e p a r a t e l y , making s u r e t h a t each p i g m e n t i s p r o p e r l y d i s p e r s e d b e f o r e t h e n e x t addition. 5 . Add i t e m 14 and m i x .
Note: I t e m s 10 t h r o u g h 13 s h o u l d b e m i c r o p u l v e r i z e d t o a c h i e v e a smooth, homogeneous f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t . SOURCE: Rheox,
I n c . : Formula TS-129
44
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Concealing Stick T h i s p r o d u c t c o v e r s f i n e f a c i a1 1 ines and b l e m i s h e s n a t u r a l l y , l e a v i n g a f l e x i b l e b a r r i e r w h i c h a l s o r e t a i n s m o i s t u r e and c o n d i t i o n s t h e s k i n . Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax) i s used as a p i g m e n t d i s p e r s e r w h i c h makes t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n e a s i e r and t h e r e b y a v o i d i n g t h e expense o f m i l l i n g . Phase A: C a s t o r O i l (Caschem) Petrolatum, White (Witco) S y n t h e t i c C a n d e l i l l a ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) Carnauba Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) J o j o b a Wax ( F l o r a Tech) P a r a f f i n Wax 130/135 ( K o s t e r Keunen) O z o k e r i t e 170 ( K o s t e r Keunen) Squalane ( B a r n e t ) V i t a m i n E (Roche)
27.3% 22.0% 10.0% 6.0% 5.0% 5.0% 4.0% 1.5% 1.0% 1.0% 0.5%
Phase 8 : Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) Titanium Dioxide (Whittaker C & D) Cosmetic Tan I r o n O x i d e (Sun C h e m i c a l ) Brown I r o n O x i d e (Sun C h e m i c a l )
9.0% 5.0% 1.5% 0.2%
Phase C : Liquipar (Sutton)
1 .O%
Procedure: H e a t and m i x Phase B t i l l p i g m e n t s a r e e v e n l y d i s p e r s e d . Weigh Phase A and i n d i v i d u a l l y add t o Phase B w h i l e m i x i n g . Heat AB t i l l homogeneous, add Phase C, c o o l and p o u r a t 60C. A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : By r e d u c i n g t h e wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n t h i s p r o d u c t can be p o u r e d i n t o a compact t r a y . L a r g e v a r i a t i o n s can be made i n wax and o i l c o n c e n t r a t i o n s t h a t a r e i n c o r p o r a t e d i n s t i c k p r o d u c t s and s t i l l p r o d u c e a s i m i l a r f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t .
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids
45
Cream Eye Shadow % bv Weight Inaredients: 2.0 ( 1 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF g r a d e ) 0.2 ( 2 ) Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e ( l o w v i s c o s i t y ) 49.3 ( 3 ) D e i o n i z e d Water 0.3 ( 4 ) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e 5.0 ( 5 ) Propylene Glycol 0.4 ( 6 ) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 20.0 ( 7 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC 5.5 ( 8 ) Titanium Dioxide (cosmetic grade) 4.5 ( 9 ) I r o n Oxides ( c o s m e t i c grade, f o r d e s i r e d c o l o r ) 0.8 (10)Stearic Acid 2.0 ( 1 1 ) G l y c e r y l Monostearate 4.0 ( 1 2 ) L a n o l in 2.0 ( 1 3)Sesame O i 1 1. o (14)Olive O i l 3.0 (15)Isopropyl Myristate q.s. ( 1 6 ) F r a g r a n c e and P r e s e r v a t i v e
Procedure: M i x ( 1 ) i n t o ( 3 ) w i t h h i g h shear u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . Add ( 2 ) and c o n t i n u e t o d i s p e r s e . S l o w l y add ( 4 ) , ( 5 ) , ( 6 ) , ( 7 ) , ( E ) , and ( 9 ) . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t h i g h speed u n t i l w e l l d i s p e r s e d . Heat t h i s m i x t u r e t o 65C and d e a e r a t e . I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r m i x ( l o ) , ( l l ) , ( 1 2 ) , ( 1 3 ) , ( 1 4 ) , and ( 1 5 ) , and h e a t t o 70C u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t h i s m i x t u r e s l o w l y t o ( 1 - 9 ) w h i l e under a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e t o m i x u n t i l c o o l . ( 1 6 ) can be added t o e i t h e r ( 1 - 9 ) m i x t u r e o r a t t h e end depending on t h e recommendations o f t h e s u p p l ie r . F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used. Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d be used when h a n d l i n g flammable in g r e d i e n t s . Dry Powder Rouge Base
Inaredients: ( 1 ) Lanol i n A l c o h o l A c e t a t e (2) Zinc Stearate ( 3 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC ( 4 ) Magnesium S t e a r a t e ( 5 ) F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e s , & Pigments
% by Weiqht 4.0 6.0 88.0 2.0 q.s.
Procedure: D r y m i x and p r e s s as r e q u i r e d . F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used.
SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
46
Cosmetic and Toilehy Formulations
Cream Facial Scrub
Wt% P a r t A: G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE* Mineral O i l S a f f 1ower O i 1 Sesame O i l Squalene D i o c t y l A d i p a t e (and) O c t y l S t e a r a t e (and) O c t y l Palm i t a t e * * Stearic Acid Cetyl Alcohol Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose*** Part B: Water A l o e Vera Gel Germaben I 1 Part C: T r i e t h a n o l ami ne P a r t D: Acuscrub 44
5.0 5.0
1. o 1.o 1.o
1.o 2.5 0.5 0.5
68.7 1. o 1.a 1.o 10.0
Procedure: S e p a r a t e l y combine P a r t A and P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 8OC w i t h a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add P a r t C and b e g i n t o c o o l . A t 50C, m o d e r a t e l y add Acuscrub 44 and s t i r u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Henkel/Emery (Emerest 2407) Caschem ( W i c k e n o l 163) Dow Chemical Co. ( M e t h o c e l 40-100)
* ** ***
Oil-In-Water Cream and Its Scrub Derivative %
A-C 617 P o l y e t h y l e n e Stearic Acid Lanogene ( l a n o l i n a l c o h o l & m i n e r a l o i l ) Isopropyl palmitate S o r b i t a n Monostearate P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e 20 S o r b i t a n M o n o s t e a r a t e Sorbo ( s o r b i t o l 70%, w a t e r 30%) Carbopol 940 9 . Germaben I 1 10. Water 11. T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 12.Perfume
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
2.0 0.5 6.0 12.5 1.3 1. a 5.0
1.o 0.8 68.35 0.75 Q.S.
Procedure: Weigh 1-6, t h e n w e i g h 7-10. Heat 7-10 w i t h a g i t a t i o n u s i n g a homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . When t h e aqueous s o l u t i o n r e a c h e s 85C, h e a t o i l phase t o 90-95C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l t h e wax has d i s s o l v e d . Combine 1-10 and s h e a r u n t i l m i x t u r e i s homogeneous. Add 1 1 and s h e a r w e l l . Cool t o 55C and add 12.
SOURCE: AlliedSignal Inc.: Suggested Formulations
Beauty Aids
47
Cream-to-Powder Eye Shadow with Dry-Floc PC D r y F l o c PC, a h i g h l y w a t e r r e s i s t a n t s t a r c h , p r o v i d e s a s i l k y smooth e l e g a n t f e e l , and i s t a l c f r e e . D e r m a c r y l LT p r o v i d e s w a t e r r e s i s t a n c e , i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e p r o t e c t i o n as w e l l as i m p r o v e d c o v e r a g e . %w/w Inaredients: Phase A : Eutanol G 13.00 D e r m a c r y l LT 1 .oo Phase B : M u l t i w a x W-835 0.30 Bentone Gel VS-5 PC 30.00 Phase C: M y r i t o l 318 3.00 T r i v e n t SS-20 0.50 Emerest 2452 4.00 0.10 Vitamin E Acetate Isopar H 7.40 Cab-0-Si 1 TS-530 0.50 S p e c t r a p e a r l BLG 10.00 30.00 D r y - F l o PC Phenoxyethanol 0.20 Procedure: Phase A, s l o w l y s i f t D e r m a c r y l LT i n t o O c t y l Dodecanol, h e a t t o BOC, m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e . Add Phase 8, m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Combine Phase C . Add Phase C t o A / B m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o room temperature. Formula 8302-115 Liquid Talc T a p i o c a F l o u r g i v e s a s o f t powdery a f t e r f e e l and i s t a l c f r e e . Inaredients: y U & SD A l c o h o l 40 (190 P r o o f ) 54.00 C r o d a c o l S-95NF 0.75 Vitamin E 1 .oo Dexpanthenol 1 .oo Tween 80 0.75 F a n c o l ALA 1 .oo E s t a l a n 430 10.00 Dermol 89 6.00 Dermol 105 4.00 C e r a p h y l 375 0.75 Ethomeen C-25 2.00 C a r b o p o l 1382 0.75 Tapioca 18.00 Ethomeen C-25 q s pH 7.00 Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t C a r b o p o l 1382 and T a p i o c a . M i x w i t h good a g i t a t i o n u n t i l u n i f o r m . S l o w l y s i f t i n C a r b o p o l 1382. Mix u n t i l completely dispersed. S i f t i n Tapioca. Mix u n t i l u n i form. Add Ethomeen C-25 t o o b t a i n pH o f 7 . 0 package. Formul a 791 5-68 SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co. : Suggested Formulas
48
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Creamy Eye Shadow M a t e r i a1 s : 1. I s o p r o p y l L a n o l a t e - D i s t i 1ed 2. Stearyl Alcohol 3 . Beeswax 4 . Ganex V-220 5. C y c l o m e t h i c o n e 6 . S o l t r o l 100 7 . H i - S i 1 T-600 8 . Bentone Gel SS71 r h e o l o g c a l a d d i t i v e 9 . C h r o m a - l i t e Dark B l u e 10.50% 328 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e CTFA Extended w i t h T a l c 141 1 1 F1amenco Vel v e t - 1 00 12,Preservative
.
% bv Weight 2.0 3.0 6.0 5.0 3.0 5.0 0.8 45.0 6.0 20.0
4.0 0.2
Manufacturing Directions: 1. Weigh i t e m s 1 t o 4 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d k e t t l e . Heat t o 70C u n t i l m e l t e d c l e a r . 2 . B r i n g t e m p e r a t u r e down t o 65C. Add 5 and s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g t o a v o i d sudden c o o l i n g . M i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s . 3. M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e t o 65C. Add and m i x i t e m s 7 and 8 u s i n g a homomixer a t medium speed. M i x u n t i l homogeneous ( l u m p f r e e ) 4. Add i t e m s 9 and 1 0 . M i x t h o r o u g h l y a f t e r each a d d i t i o n t o disperse pigments u n i f o r m l y . 5 . Add i t e m s 11 and 12 and m i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s . 6 . Pour a t 62-63C j u s t b e f o r e i t s t a r t s c o n g e a l i n g . Formula TS-249 Waterproof Eye Liner Materials: 1 . Beeswax 2 . Ganex V-220 3. S h e l l Sol 71 4. Bentone Gel SS71 r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 5. P r e s e r v a t i v e 6. Chroma-lite Black
% b v Wei q h t 16.5 5.0 35.0 33.5 0.2 9.8
Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 and 2 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d k e t t l e . Heat t o 70C and h o l d u n t i l m e l t e d c l e a r . 2. B r i n g t e m p e r a t u r e down t o 65C. Add i t e m 3 s l o w l y , w h i l e m i x i n g , t o a v o i d sudden c o o l i n g . M i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s . 3. M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 60C. Add and m i x i n i t e m 4 u s i n g a homomixer a t medium speed. M i x u n t i l homogeneous. NOTE: A c l e a n chrome s p a t u l a d i p p e d i n t o t h e g e l mass w i l l show an even s u r f a c e sheen, w i t h no a g g l o m e r a t e s when proper1y d i spersed 4. Add i t e m s 5 and 6 s e p a r a t e l y . M i x t h o r o u g h l y a f t e r each addition. 5. Pour a t 55-60C j u s t b e f o r e i t s t a r t s c o n g e a l i n g . F o r m u l a TS-189 SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
.
BeautyAids
49
Creamy Matte Make UP Base % bv Weiaht Inaredients: 54.20 ( 1 ) D e i o n i z e d Water 3.00 ( 2 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF g r a d e ) 0.50 ( 3 ) C a r b o x y m e t h y l C e l l u l o s e (medium v i s c o s i t y ) 0.30 ( 4 ) Tamol N 5.00 (5) Propylene G l y c o l 19.80 ( 6 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC 3.70 (7) Titanium Dioxide 1.50 (8) I r o n O x i d e ( m i c r o n i z e d ) 5.00 (9) Isopropyl M y r i s t a t e 0.75 ( 1 0 ) S o r b i t o l Monolaurate 2.25 ( 11 ) P o l y s o r b a t e 20 2.00 (12)Stearyl Alcohol 2.00 (13)Amerchol-L-l Ol q.s. Perfume & P r e s e r v a t i v e Procedure: M i x w i t h h i g h s h e a r ( l ) , ( 2 ) , and ( 3 ) u n t i l w e l l d i s p e r s e d ( a p p r o x i m a t e l y 20 m i n u t e s ) . Add (41, ( 5 1 , (61, (71, and ( 8 ) and h e a t t o a p p r o x i m a t e l y 60C. I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , m i x ( 9 ) , ( l o ) , ( l l ) , ( 1 2 ) , and ( 1 3 ) and h e a t t o 70C w h i l e m i x i n g . Add t o t h e o t h e r m i x and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l c o o l . F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used. Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d be used when h a n d l i n g f l a m m a b l e in a r e d i e n t s . Liquid Make-Up % b v Weiah Inaredients: 66. i ( 1 ) D e i o n i z e d Water I . > ( 2 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF a r a d e ) ( 3 ) C a r b o x y m e t h y l C e l l u i o s e (medium v i s c o s i t y ) 0.5 (4) Triethanolamine 1.o (5) Tamol-N 0.4 ( 6 ) L e x a n o l PG 900 5.0 ( 7 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC 7.0 (8) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (cosmetic grade) 2.0 (9) I r o n Oxide (micronized) 1.o (10)Lexmul P 0.5 (11)Isopropyl Myristate 5.0 (12)Lexate I L 4.5 ( 13)Steari c Acid 2.0 ( 1 4)Mi n e r a l O i 1 3.0 P r e s e r v a t i v e & Fragrance q.s. Procedure: D i s p e r s e ( 2 ) i n t o ( 1 ) a t h j g h speed. Add ( 3 ) and c o n t i n u e t o d i s p e r s e u n t i l u n i f o r m . Reduce speed and add ( 4 ) , ( 5 ) , (61, (71, ( 8 ) , and ( 9 ) . H e a t t o 70C. I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , h e a t and m i x ( l o ) , ( l l ) , ( 1 2 ) , ( 1 3 ) and ( 1 4 ) t o 70C. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add t h i s t o t h e aqueous phase. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 30C. F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used. Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d be u s e d when h a n d l i n g f 1ammable i n g r e d i e n t s SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
- -
.
50
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Creamy Roll-On Lip
Gloss
M a t e r ia1 s : 1 . I n d o p o l H-100 2 . I s o p r o p y l a n 50 3 . Propylparaben 4 . Tenox 4 5 . Bentone Gel LO1 R h e o l o g i c a l A d d i t i v e 6 . Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e * 7 . T i m i r o n Super Red 8 . Perfume *Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e : Castor O i l C o l o r No. 3106 D&C Red No. 6
% bv Wei a h t
52.0 24.5 0.1 0.1 20.0 0.2 3.0 0.1 60.0
40.0
Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 t h r o u g h 4 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s steam j a c k e t k e t t l e . Heat t o 80C and h o l d u n t i l m e l t e d c l e a r . 2 . B r i n g t e m p e r a t u r e down t o 75C; add and m i x i n i t e m 5 u s i n g homomixer a t medium speed. M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 75C. 3. Add i t e m 6 and m i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l d i s p e r s e d ; t h e n add i t e m 7 and m i x f o r a n o t h e r 5 m i n u t e s . 4 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t medium speed and l o w e r t e m p e r a t u r e t o 60C. Add i t e m 8 . Remove h e a t and a l l o w mass t o come t o room temperature. Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e P r e p a r a t i o n : 1 . Weigh d r y powder i n t o t h e c a s t o r o i l u s i n g a s l o w speed Hobart t y p e mixer u n t i l uniform. 2 . G i v e t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e two passes o v e r a t h r e e r o l l m i l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e .
SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested Formula TS-190
Beauty Ai&
51
Deep Extra Body Conditioner T h i s f o r m u l a u t i l i z e s t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e Hexaned i o l Behenyl Beeswax i n a s i l i c o n e o i l and c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s o f Bee's M i l k .
Oil
Phase A : E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF ( K o s t e r Keunen) S i l i c o n e O i l 245 (Dow) S i 1 i c o n e O i 1 556 (Dow) H e x a n e d i o l Behenyl Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) L e c i t h i n (Am. L e c i t h i n ) Liquapar (Sutton) P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) Water Phase 0: Carbopol 940 2% S o l u t i o n (BF G o o d r i c h ) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (DuPont) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (Dow) Cocamide (Croda) S i l k Powder (Dasco) M a r i n e Dew ( A j i n o r n o t o ) S i l k S o l u b l e L i q u i d (Dasco) Water ( D i s t i 11 ed) M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) Phase C: B e e ' s M i l k ( K o s t e r Keunen) F r a g r a n c e (Aroma Tech)
3.0% 2.5% 2.0% 1 .O% 1 .O% 0.5% 0.2%
10.0%
0.5% 0.1%
0.1% 0.1% 0.1% 0.1% 68.3% 0.3%
10.0%
0.2%
Procedure: M i x and h e a t w a t e r phase t o 70-75C. M e l t o i l phase and add t o w a t e r phase a t 70-75C under a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g . A t 40C add phase C and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r a t 35C. A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and I t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Changes i n t h e a c t i v e s and t h e c o n d i t i o n e r s a r e s t r a i g h t f o r w a r d , s i m p l e r e p l a c e m e n t s . G a f q u a t ' s w o u l d be a c l a s s o f c o n d i t i o n e r s which would f i t t h i s fo rm ul a w e l l .
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
52
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Emollient Liquid Make-up Conceals m i n o r s k i n i m p e r f e c t i o n s y e t m o i s t u r i z e s , g i v i n g s k i n a s o f t dewy f i n i s h . T h i s P r o d u c t has tremendous endurance through very vigorous a c t i v i t i e s . Phase A: Xanthan Gum ( K e l c o ) C e l l u l o s e Gum ( A q u a l o n ) Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) PEG 1450 ( U n i o n C a r b i d e ) M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l (Dow) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 ( G a l l a r d & S c h l e s i n g e r )
0.33% 0.23% 50.55% 0.70% 2 35% 0.28% 1.88% 0.47% I
Phase 0: T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) Brown I r o n O x i d e ( W a r n e r - J e n k i n s o n ) Y e l l o w BC I r o n O x i d e s ( W a r n e r - J e n k i n s o n ) Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Cera B e l l i n a ( K o s t e r Keunen)
8.44% 2.35% 0.94% 6.10% 4.69%
Phase C : Octyl Palmitate (Barnel ) S i l i c o n e 245 (Dow) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l (Acme) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) J o j o b a O i 1 ( J o j o b a Growers) P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l S t e a r a t e ( I n o l e x ) Propylparaben (Sutton)
6.57% 2 * 00% 6.10% 1.41% 1.50% 0.94% 1 89% 0 28%
Procedure: D i s p e r s e p i g m e n t s i n t h e Orange Wax and Cera B e l l na i n a b e a k e r w i t h a g l a s s s t i r r i n s r o d , a l l o w t o s o l i d i f y . Repea s o - a s - t o b r e a k - u p v i s i b l e a p p l o m e r a t i o n s . M i x and h e a t t o 75C phase C u n t i l u n i f o r m , add t o phase B under a g i t a t i o n , Add m a.i n t a-i .n i n.g t. h e t e-m p e r a t u r e t .i l l homogeneous. . . . - . . t. h e mixed ana m e l t e d phase B ana c t o t n e mixed and m e l t e d phase A . Continue m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g , pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r s a t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 50C. A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Sunscreens, v e g e t a b l e o i l s and b r a n c h e d o i l s can be s u b s t i t u t e d i n m i n o r amounts s i n c e p r o d u c t s such as t h e s e a r e sens i t i v e t o s m a l l changes t h a t w i l l a f f e c t s t a b i l i t y .
SOURCE:
K o s t e r Keunen,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Beauty Aids
53
Emulsion Makeup Part A: Amerchol L-1 01 Amer 1a t e S t e a r i c a c i d , XXX G l y c e r y l monostearate, Carnation M i n e r a l O i 1
4.5% 0.9 2.7 1 .8 4.5
neut.
P a r t 8: Propylene g l y c o l Triethanolamine Water T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e , t a l c & pigments Perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e
4.5 0.9 70.2 10.0 q.s.
Procedure: Add P a r t 8 t o 8 5 C e l s i u s t o P a r t A a t 9 5 C e l s i u s w h i l e s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 30 C e l s i u s . Add t o t h e m i c r o n i z e d powder b l e n d i n i n c r e m e n t s , m i x i n g w e l l a f t e r each addition. Water-in-Oil Lotion Makeup Magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1 i c a t e Deionized water Magnesi urn s u l f a t e Talc Kaol i n Titanium dioxide I r o n Oxides Carnation Hydrogenated p o l y i sobutene C a r n a t i o n (and) 1 a n o l in a1 coho1 S o r b i t o l 70% I s o p r o p y l l a n o l a t e (and) l e c i t h i n Oleamide DEA Preservative
Percent 1.2 37.9 0.4 1.5 1.5 5.0
3.0 15.0 8.0 8.0 5.0 7.0
2.5 q.s.
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Farmulations
54
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Eye Contour Balm The s k i n a r o u n d t h e e y e i s t h i n n e r , more s e n s i t i v e and r a p i d l y shows t h e s i g n s o f a g i n g and f a t i g u e such as; C r o w ' s f e e t , s a g g i n g s k i n , d a r k c i r c l e s and p u f f i n e s s . T h i s i s d e s i g n e d u s i n g n a t u r e as a s t a r t i n g p o i n t . Much o f t h e p r o d u c t ' s a c t i v i t y comes f r o m m i l d l y r e f i n e d raw m a t e r i a l s t h a t keeps i n t a c t t h e n a t u r a l p r o p e r t i e s , p r o d u c i n g a non-oi l y , q u i c k p e n e t r a t i n g and f r a g r a n c e f r e e p r o d u c t . A l o w c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f s y n t h e t i c p r e s e r v a t i v e i s needed due t o t h e m i n o r components o f a few o f t h e raw m a t e r i a l s . W i t h r e g u l a r use t h e appearance o f a g i n g w i l l be r e d u c e d .
O i l Phase: Sweet Almond O i 1 ( C r o d a ) P r o p o l i s Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) R i c e B r a n O i l F i l t e r e d ( K o s t e r Keunen) Safflower O i l ( A r i s t a ) Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) H y d r o g e n a t e d C a s t o r O i l (CasChem) V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) V i t a m i n E (Roche) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) C e t y l s t e a r y l A l c o h o l (P&G) Squalene ( P o l y e s t h e r ) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel)
4.0% 5.0% 4.0% 2.0% 1 .O% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 2.5% 1.5% 1.0% 2.0% 2.0%
Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i 11ed) Ginkgo B i l o b a ( V e r n i n ) A1 1 a n t o i n ( S u t t o n ) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (Dow) Xanthan Gum ( K e l c o ) M a g n a b r i t e S ( W h i t t a k e r C & D) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 ( G e l l a r d & S c h l e s i n g e r ) M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
69.6% 0.5% 0.5% 1 .O% 1 .O% 0.4% 0.2% 0.3%
Procedure: M i x and h e a t o i l phase t o 80C. Add components o f w a t e r phase u n d e r a g i t a t i o n and h e a t and homogenize t o 75C. Add o i l phase t o w a t e r phase u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . Cool and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r a t 45 t o 50C. A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : W i t h o n l y s l i g h t changes t h i s p r o d u c t c a n be a l l n a t u r a l and f r e e o f synthetics preservatives.
SOURCE:
K o s t e r Keunen,
Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Beauty Aids
55
Eye Mascara
Ingredients: 1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 2 . A-C Copolymer 540 3. Mineral S p i r i t s 4 . D i h y d r o a b i e t y l A1 coho1 5 . C a n d e l i l l a Wax 6 . A1 umi num S t e a r a t e 7 . B u t y l P a r a h y d r o x y Benzoate 8 . I r o n Oxide
W L % 12.0 2.0 68.0 5.0
2.4 0.5 0.1 10.0
Procedure: M i x 1-5 and h e a t w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l s o l i d waxes have d i s s o l v e d . Then s p r i n k l e w i t h s t i r r i n g 6 and 7; when a l l i s d i s s o l v e d , add 8 and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r g r i n d i n w i t h 3 roll mill. Eye Mascara
Ingredients: 1. Mineral S p i r i t s 2 . A-C 617A 3. D i hydroabie t y l Alcohol 4 . C a n d e l i l l a Wax 5 . A1 umi num S t e a r a t e 6 . B u t y l P a r a h y d r o x y Benzoate 7. I r o n Oxide
W B 70 12 5 2.4 0.5 0.1 10
Procedure: M i x 1 - 4 and h e a t w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l s o l i d waxes have d i s s o l v e d . Then s p r i n k l e w i t h s t i r r i n g 5 and 6 , when a l l i s d i s s o l v e d add 7 and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r g r i n d i n w i t h a 3 roll Mill.
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
56
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Eye Mascara T h i s f o r m u l a d e m o n s t r a t e s t h e s t a b i l i t y , d i s p e r s i v e and r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a . The p r o d u c t i s q u i c k d r y i n g on t h e eye l a s h and uses a m u l t i - p h a s e e m u l s i o n s y s t e m . O i l Phase: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) 15.0% G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel) 3.5% Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2.0% I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) 1 .O% P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) 0.3% Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) 63.6% Sodium B o r a t e ( B o r a x ) 1.5% 1 .O% P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (Dow) Carboxy M e t h y l C e l l u l o s e ( H e r c u l e s ) 0.2% 0.3% M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) A l c o h o l Phase: 9.0% SDA-30 (Quantum) P u r i f i e d Black Oxide ( W h i t t a k e r ) 2.6% Procedure: M e l t Cera B e l l i n a t o a maximum o f 75C. Then add t h e r e s t o f t h e o i l phase w h i l e m i x i n g . Make s u r e a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e m e l t e d . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l d i s s o l v e t h e components o f t h e w a t e r phase. Add t h e w a t e r phase t o t h e o i l phase, m a i n t a i n i n g t h e t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C f o r a p p r o x i m a t e l y 15 m i n u t e s . A l l o w t o c o o l s l o w l y . When t h e temper&-ure i s 35-40C, add t h e a l c o h o l phase u n d e r h i g h s h e a r A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Changing t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f w a t e r ( i n c r e a s e ) and s o l i d s ( d e c r e a s e ) by s m a l l amounts w i l l c o n t r o l t h e v i s c o s i t y . A v a r i e t y of p i g m e n t s c a n be s u b s t i t u t e d t o s u i t p r o d u c t s needs. Eyeliner Stick/Pencil T h i s p r o d u c t i n c o r p o r a t e s a l a r g e p i g m e n t l o a d a t t h e same t i m e as h a v i n g a smooth, even a p p l i c a t i o n t o t h e s k i n . The t e x t u r e i s r i d g e d , h i g h l y c o l o r e d f o r l o n g wear c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s , w i l l n o t b l e e d and i s v e r y s t a b l e . 1. Titanium Dioxide (Whittaker C & D) 25.0% 2 . C e r e s i n e Wax 140/150 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 15.0% 3 . Red D&C #7 ( W a r n e r - J e n k i n s o n ) 12.5% 4 . P u r i f i e d Navy B l u e ( W h i t t a k e r C & D ) 12.5% 5 . Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) 10.0% 6. G l y c e r o l T r i o c t a n o a t e ( B a r n e t ) 10.0% 7. E t h y l e n e G l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e ( H e n k e l ) 5.0% 8 . G1 y c e r o l T r i b e h e n a t e ( C r o d a ) 5.0% 9 . H y d r o g e n a t e d C a s t o r O i l (CasChem) 5.0% Procedure: Add 2 , 5 , 6 , 7 , 8 and 9 i n t o a v e s s e l . M e l t , m i x and m a i n t a i n a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C, add 1,3 and 4 u n d e r h i g h s h e a r . M a i n t a i n h i g h shear m i x i n g f o r 30-40 m i n u t e s . Cool and p o u r i n t o m o l d s . Lower p i g m e n t l o a d and h i g h e r wax and o i l c o n c e n t r a t i o n s can be s u b s t i t u t e d s o - a s - t o f a c i l i t a t e t h e g r e a t e s t c o s t e f f e c t i v e ness and a t t h e same t i m e , p r o d u c e a l u x u r i o u s p r o d u c t . SOURCE: Koster Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids
57
Face and Body Milk
A.
B.
M i g l y o l 840 I m w i t o r 900 Marlowet TA 6 M a r l o w e t TA 25 Jojoba o i l Beeswax Propylene g l y c o l monostearate K e l t r o l g e l 1% d-Panthenol USP Karion F Water
C.
Vitamin E
D.
Perfume Preservative
Wt$ 12.0 3.0 1.2 2.1 4.0 2.0
1. o
15.0 3.0 5.6
t o 100.0 0.2
Preparation: The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e added t o g e t h e r and h e a t e d t o 75-8OC. B . i s s t i r r e d w h i l e h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e . B . i s e m u l s i f i e d i n A . C . and D . a r e added a t a p p r o x . 30C. Preparation o f the K e l t r o l gel: K e l t r o l F 1 .O% Water t o 100.0% B o t h components a r e added t o g e t h e r a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and s t i r r e d u n t i l t h e homogeneous m i x f o r m s a c l e a r g e l . Lip Care Stick
.
S o f t i s a n 100 D y n a c e r i n 660 M i g l y o l 812 S o f t i san 649 Vase1 ine Beeswax Hard p a r a f f in Cetyl alcohol Carnauba wax
.
Antioxidants Perfume
20.0 8.0 6.0 5.0 30.0 20.0 5.0 5.0 1. o qs
as
Preparation: A l l i n g r e d i a n t s a r e m e l t e d , s t i r r e d t o a creamy c o n s i s t e n c y u n t i l c o l d , perfume i n c o r p o r a t e d b e f o r e c a s t i n g i n o moulds.
SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . :
F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmet c s : Formulas
58
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Face-Lotion E t h a n o l 96% S o f t i g e n 767 Hamamel is Spec a1 M a r l owet R 4 0 / K Glycerol Ampholyt J B 13 Panthenol Camomi 1e Speci a1 Perfume Preservative Water
% 5.0 3.0 10.0 0.3 2.0 0.2 0.2 2.0 qs qs t o 100.0
Preparation: The components a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
Skin Tonic Water without Alcohol
% S o f t i g e n 767 1 , 2 - P r o p y l ene g l y c o l Extrapon 3-Special A1 l a n t o i n M a r l owet R 4 0 / K Menthol Vitamin F Perfume Preservative Water
5.0 3.0
4.0 0.5 0.5 0.3
0.2 qs qs t o 100.0
Preparation: The components a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Suggested Formul a t i ons
Beauty Aids
59
Facial Cleanser Weight,% Mackanate LO-Speci a1 ( D i s o d i um L a u r y l S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) Mackol 16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) B r i j 52 M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, F r a g r a n c e qs t o
88.0 2.0 2.0 qs 100.0
S o l i d s , %: 40.0 pH ( a s i s ) : 5 . 5 Appearance: P e a r l y Cream Procedure: 1. Add Mackol 16, B r i j 52 and w a t e r t o Mackanate LO-Special and h e a t t o 70 degrees C . 2 . 61 end u n t i 1 homogeneous. 3 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 t o 6 . 0 w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e . 4 . Cool t o 50 degress C . and add M a c k s t a t DM and f r a g r a n c e . 5 . A d j u s t s o l i d t o 40.0+-1.0 a t t h i s p o i n t . 6 . Cool and f i l l . Sting Free Facial Cleanser Mackam 2C Sodium L a u r e t h - 1 S u l f a t e (25%) Mackerni um 007 Mackanate DC-30 Mackester SP M a c k s t a t DM Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e q . s . t o
Wei a h t .% 40.0 15.0 1.5 4.0 2.0 q.s.
100.0
Procedure: 1. Add Mackam 2C, Sodium L a u r e t h - 1 S u l f a t e , Mackanate DC-30 and Mackester SP t o w a t e r . 2 . Heat t o 70C. and b l e n d u n t i l homogeneous. 3 . Cool t o 50C. and s l o w l y add Mackernium 007. 4 . When c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d , add t h e r e m a i n i n g components.
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . :
P e r s o n a l Care F o r m u l a r y
60
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Fluid Make-Up
W_m
M i g l y o l 812 7.0 M i g l y o l 840 5.0 I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s 3.0 I m w i t o r 900 2.0 M a r l o o h o r T 1 0 Na s a l t 2.0 Paraffin o i l 5.0 B . K e l t r o l g e l I%* 15.0 Water 43.0 Karion F 5.0 Glycerol 3.0 C . Perfume qs Preservative qs D. Titanium dioxide 3.0 Talc 3.0 Zinc oxide 3.0 1. o Sicomet Brown 70 C,I 77491 Preparation: The i n a r e d i e n t s o f A a r e m e l t e d and h e a t e d t o 75-8OC. The f i n e l y m i x e d p i g m e n t s D . a r e homogenised t o g e t h e r w i t h A . The i n g r e d i e n t s o f B . a r e mixed, h e a t e d t o BOC and s l o w l y e m u l s i f i e d i n A . + D . Perfume i s added a t a r o u n d 3 5 C . *Preparation o f the K e l t r o l g e l : K e l t r o l F 1.0% Water t o 100.0% The K e l t r o l i s mixed w i t h t h e w a t e r u n t i l homogeneous and t h e mixture s t i r r e d u n t i l the gel i s c l e a r . A.
Compact Make-Up M i g l y o l 812 18.0 M i g l y o l 840 10.0 I m w i t o r 900 8.0 S o f t i s a n 100 10.0 S o f t i s a n 649 4.0 Beeswax 7.0 Hard p a r a f f in 10.0 Stearic acid 3.0 8 . Sicomet Brown 70 C . I . 77491 0.5 Sicomet Brown 75 C . I . 77491 0.5 Talc a. o Zinc oxide 8.0 Titanium dioxide 8.0 C. Perfume qs D. K a r i o n F 5.0 P r e p a r a t ion : The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . and 0 . a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r and g r a d u a l l y added t o t h e s t i r r e d - u n t i l - h o m o g e n e o u s phase B. The m i x i s t h e n a g a i n h e a t e d t o a p p r o x . 70C and s t i r r e d u n t i l c o l d . C i s added and t h e w h o l e m i x i s homogenised. A.
SOURCE: H u l s America
Inc.:
Formulations
for Cosmetics: Formulas
Beauty Aids
Fluid Make Up InQredientS: A ) C u t i n a GMS E u m u l g i n E1 Eutanol G M i g l y o l 812 Phenoni p
% w/w 4,OO 4,OO 10; 00 6,OO 0,30
E)
63,66 0,20 0,04 3,OO 0,60 5,OO 1,50 1,oo
Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d Euxyl K-200 C i t r i c acid H y a s o l -BT Bentone EW Pigment p a s t e w h i t e : N r . 93975 Pigment p a s t e y e l l o w : N r . 75577 Pigment p a s t e r e d : N r . 68775 Pigment p a s t e b l a c k : N r . 78375
C ) Perfume O i l :
B e a u t y 01239870
0,40 0,30
Procedure: Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A ) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r phase B) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase 8 ) t o phase A ) , c o o l t o 50C, homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then add phase C ) and s t i r c o l d . A p p l i c a t i o n No. x 004.A/11.92 Regenerating Lipcare-Stick
% w/w 72,25 7,60 10,oo 0,15 5,OO 5,OO
Insredients: 1 Wax p r e m i x No. 1 2 Pigments 3 A r l a c e l 582 4 I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea 5 Phytal uronate 6. C e p h a l i p i n
Procedure: M e l t Wax-Premix ( 1 ) a t 8QC i n t h e m a i n - m i x e r w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h paddles. I n c o r p o r a t e i t e m 2 and homogenize w e l l . M e l t a p a r t i t e m 3 a t 80C and s l o w l y add t h e p r e h e a t e d (80C) i t e m s 4-6. Add t h e o b t a i n e d e m u l s i o n ( 4 - 6 ) t o t h e p i g m e n t e d wax-base w h i l e m i x i n g a t 80C. Then p o u r i n t o t h e m o u l d s . A p p l i c a t i o n No. X 025.0/02.93 SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
61
62
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Gelled Aloe Vera with Sunscreen Ingredients: A. D I water C a r b o p o l 940 Aloe Veragel L i q u i d 1 : 1
Percent 81.18 0.92 2.3
B. T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
C . D I water Phenylbenzenimidazole S u l f o n i c A c i d T r i e t h a n o l ami ne
0.3
D . DMDM H y d a n t o i n E.
10.0 2.0 t o pH 7 . 0
0.1
D i s o d i u m EDTA
Procedure: Disperse Carbopol r e s i n i n t o water (under h i g h a g i t a t i o n ) . Add A l o e V e r a g e l e x t r a c t . N e u t r a l i z e w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . Combine C, add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e t o a d j u s t pH t o 7 . 0 . Add C t o n e u t r a l i z e d A ( m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n ) . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and c h e l a t i ng a g e n t . Aloe Vera Jelly Inaredients: A . Water C i t r i c Acid (granular) G1 y d a n t G e r m a l l 115 Versene-220 P r o p y l Gal 1a t e
6. P r o p y l G l y c o l Xanthan Gum Aubygel x-125
C . A l o e v e r a 200 powder
Percent 91.94 0.2 0.3 0.25 0.05 0.05 4.5 0.75 1.5 0.46
Procedure: Heat Phase A t o 80C. P r e m i x Phase B w i t h good a g i t a t i o n and add Phase 0 t o A . M i x s l o w l y and c o o l t o 55C. Add phase C, and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Package a t between 35-45C.
SOURCE: D r . M a d i s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids
63
Gentle Beauty Wash T h i s e l e g a n t b e a u t y wash i s based on m i l d s u r f a c t a n t s t h a t r e s u l t i n a m i l d c l e a n s i n g p r o d u c t . I t s n o n - a l k a l i n e pH and combination o f i n g r e d i e n t s a r e designed t o leave t h e s k i n clean and smooth w i t h o u t h a r s h soap e f f e c t s . Materials: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . Propylene Glycol 3. 50% Sodium H y d r o x i d e 4 . Bentone EW 5 . S t e a r i c Acid, t r i p l e pressed 6 . I g e p o n AC78 7 . S i p o n ESY 8 . S i p o n a t e DDB-40 9 . A l c o n a t e SBR-3 10.Sodium S e t h i o n a t e 5 5 11 .Oxaban A 1 2 . F r a g r a n c e K U 70
% bv W e i q h t 46.20 8.00
0.60 0.40 8.00 11 - 0 0 11 .oo 5.00 2.50 6.50 0.05 0.75
Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : D i s p e r s e t h e Bentone EW i n t h e d e i o n i z e d w a t e r , sodium h y d r o x i d e and p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . S t a r t h e a t i n g . Decrease a g i t a t i o n and add t h e s t e a r i c a c i d and I g e p o n AC78. C o n t i n u e h e a t i n g u n t i l t h e I g e p o n AC78 has d i s s o l v e d (70 d e g r e e s C e l s i u s ) . Add t h e S i p o n ESY, S i p o n a t e DDB-40, A l c o n a t e SBR-3 and Sodium I s e t h i o n a t e 5 5 . S t a r t c o o l i n g . Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e a t 35C. The v i s c o s i t y and p e a r l w i l l d e v e l o p upon s t a n d i ng. I n g r e d i e n t Label : Water, Sodium c o c o y l i s e t h i o n a t e , S t e a r i c a c i d , P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l , Sodium i s e t h i o n a t e , Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , Sodium d o d e c y l benzene s u l f o n a t e , D i s o d i u m r i c i n o l e m i d o , MEA-sulfos u c c i n a t e , F r a g r a n c e , H e c t o r i t e , Sodium h y d r o x i d e , 4 , 4 - D i m e t h y l o x a z o l i d i n e , 3,4,4-Trimethyloxazolidine. Physical Properties: pH: 5 . 8 - 6 . 1 V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d LV4 @ 2 5 degrees C ( a t r e s t 12 h o u r s ) : @ 3 RPMs 80,000-110,000 CP @ 6 RPMs 50,000- 70,000 CP @ 12 RPMs 30,000->50,000 CP Appearance: W h i t e , p e a r l e d , pumpable cream
SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Rhone P o u l e n c P r o t o t y p e F o r m u l a t i o n 91-0401
64
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair and Skin Moisturizing Mist A r e f r e s h i ng s p r a y c o n t a i n i ng s p e c i a1 h u m e c t a n t s t o r e p l e n i s h much needed m o i s t u r e t o h a i r and s k i n . C o n t a i n s Sodium PCA t o h e l p r e s t o r e normal m o i s t u r e b a l a n c e and keep t h e s k i n young l o o k i n g and f r e s h . A l s o c o n t a i n s A l o e V e r a Gel and P a n t h e n o l t o s o o t h e , c o n d i t i o n and p r o t e c t t h e s k i n and h a i r f r o m d r y i n g o u t . Recommended f o r u s e u n d e r d r y c l i m a t i c condi t i o n s , d r y h e a t o r d u r i n g sun e x p o s u r e .
I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: Dei o n i zed Water P o l y q u a t e r n i um-4/Celquat C i t r i c Acid P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Methylparaben
%
91 . I 3 0.05 0.01 2.00 0.20
H-100
P a r t B: Sodi um PCA/Aj idew N-50 S o r b i t o l & Sodium L a c t a t e & P r o l i n e & Sodium PCA & Hydro1 y z e d Col 1agen/Prodew 100 P a n th e n o l A l o e V e r a G e l / A q u a s o l 104 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l / D o w C o r n i n g 193 D i azo1 id i n y l Urea/Germal 1 I I Part C: Tea-Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e / A m i s o f t P o l y s o r b a t e 20/Tween 2 0 F r a g r a n c e #X3110
CT-12
2.00 2.00 0.10 1.oo 0.30 0.20
0 50 0.50 0.01 I
Procedure: D i s p e r s e C e l q u a t H100 i n t o r a p i d l y a g i t a t i ng d e i o n i zed w a t e r . Heat t o 70 d e g r e e s C e n t i g r a d e . Add r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y c l e a r and u n i f o r m . S t a r t c o o l i n g . A t 5 0 d e g r e e s C e n t i g r a d e , add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x w e l l a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . P r e m i x P a r t C . A t 40 d e g r e e s C e n t i g r a d e add p r e m i x e d P a r t C t o P a r t A . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 35 d e g r e e s Centigrade. Appearance: C l e a r , pH: 5 . 0 0 - 5 . 4 0
l i g h t yellow, water-thin
liquid
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n
Beauty Aids
65
Hair and Skin Moisturizing Spray A r e f r e s h i n g s p r a y c o n t a i n i ng s p e c i a1 h u m e c t a n t s t o r e p l e n i s h much needed m o i s t u r e t o h a i r and s k i n . C o n t a i n s Sodium PCA t o h e l p r e s t o r e normal m o i s t u r e b a l a n c e and keep t h e s k i n young and f r e s h , A l s o c o n t a i n s A l o e Vera Gel t o s o o t h e d r y n e s s , and e m o l l i e n t s t o c o n d i t i o n and p r o t e c t t h e s k i n and h a i r f r o m d r y i n g o u t . Recommended f o r use under d r y c l i m a t i c c o n d i t i o n s , d r y h e a t o r d u r i n g sun e x p o s u r e .
I n s r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: D e i o n i z e d Water Sodi um PCA/Aj idew N-50 A l o e Vera Gel D e c o l o r i z e d l x D i m e t h i c o n e Copolyol/Dow C o r n i n g 193 S u r f a c t a n t D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea/Germal 1 I I
% by Weiaht
88.95 3.00 5.00 0.30 0.10
Part 0 : Propylene G l y c o l Methylparaben
2.00 0.15
Part C: TEA-Cocoyl
0.50
Glutamate/Amisoft C T - I 2
Procedure: M i x p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l e v e r y t h i n g s comp e t e y d i s s un il c l e a r o l v e d . Heat p a r t 0 t o 5 0 d e g r e e s C e n t i g r a d e and m i Add p a r t C . M i x w e l l . Appearance: Clear, c o l o r l e s s , water-thin pH: 5 . 3 0 - 5 . 6 0
liquid.
Hair Liquid (Soft Type)
Wt% ( 0 ) P y r o t e r GPI-25 2-Hexyldecyl A l c o h o l Ethyl Alcohol Methylparaben Perfume (W)
Ajidew T-50 Water
9.0 1.o
40.0 0.1 q.s.
4.0 45.9
Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e ( 0 ) and ( W ) s e p a r a t e l y a t room t e m p e r a t u r e t o be c l e a r s o l u t i ons. 2 . Add ( W ) t o ( 0 ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 7 . 0 V i s c o s i t y : 6 cps
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U S A ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
66
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
High Shine Lipstick H i g h g l o s s , f i r m l i p s t i c k w i t h good m o i s t u r i z i n g q u a l i t i e s . L i q u e f i e s i n s t a n t l y t o an o i l , s l i p p e r y f i l m w h i l e d e p o s i t i n g v e r y l i t t l e s h e e r c o l o r and h i g h p e a r l e s c e n c e .
%
Castor O i l Candel i 11a Wax Acetulan Ross Wax 1275W Propylene Glycol Monolaurate Lanogene Carnauba Wax Propylparaben T i m i r o n MP-10 D & C Red #9 (31-3009) D & C Red #7 Ca Lake ( 3 1 0 7 ) P u r . Navy B l u e #7110 Fragrance
59.4 8.0 7.5 5.0 5.0 5.0 2.0 0.1 7.0 0.6 0.3 0.1 q.s
Procedures: G r i n d t h e pigments i n p a r t o f t h e Castor O i l u s i n g e i t h e r a 3 - r o l l m i l l o r m o r t a r / p e s t l e . Add a l l o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s ( e x c e p t f o r p e a r l e s c e n t p i g m e n t and f r a g r a n c e and h e a t g e n t l y on steam b a t h t o 80-85C. Add p e a r l , m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F r a g r a n c e s h o u l d be added a t l o w e s t p o s s i b l e t e m p e r a t u r e . Cast i n t o molds. Lipstick Formulation
%
Ross S y n t h e t i c C a n d e l i l l a Wax Isopropyl Myris t a t e L a n o l i n N.F. Ross W h i t e Beeswax N.F. Ross R e f i n e d P a r a f f i n Wax 130/35 Ross W h i t e O z o k e r i t e Wax 77W Castor O i l Pigment Teg "P"
.
10.9 9.5 4.4 3.3 2.0 0.9 54.3 12.0 0.1
*Formu1 a t i on d e v e l o p e d by P r e c i s i o n Cosmetic o f Mount Vernon, NY, i n c o n j u n c t i o n w i t h t h e F r a n k 0 . Ross Company.
SOURCE: F r a n k B . Ross Co.,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids
67
Lip Balm White
%
Rosswax 2639 M i n e r a l O i l #7 S o l a r Chem 0 F r a g r a n c e GP-58
85.0 13.5 1.5 q.s.
Procedure: M e l t a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o 19OF i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l . M i x t h o r o u g h l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n , c o o l t o 165F, f r a g r a n c e and p o u r i n t o a c o n t a i n e r . Note: C a p p i n g may b e n e c e s s a r y .
Lip Balm I
%!
Castor O i l C r y s t a l 0 Emery I P P Emery 1723 Rosswax 2640 A c e t u 1an SDA A l c o h o l #40 S o l a r Chem 0 Propylene Glycol F r a g r a n c e GP-58
46.0 17.0 10.4 19.6 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.o q.sa
Procedure: M e l t a1 1 i n g r e d i e n t s t o 19OF i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l . M i x t h o r o u g h l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 165F, f r a g r a n c e and p o u r i n t o a c o n t a i n e r . N o t e : Capping may be n e c e s s a r y .
Lip Balm II
%!
Ross Base O i l 2539 Emery 1723 Rosswax 2641 SDA A l c o h o l #40 S o l a r Chem 0 Propylene Glycol F r a g r a n c e GP-58
55.4 10.8 29.3 2.0 1.5 1.o q.s.
Procedure: M e l t a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o 19OF i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l . M i x t h o r o u g h l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n , cool t o 165F, f r a g r a n c e and p o u r i n t o a c o n t a i n e r . Note: Capping may be n e c e s s a r y . SOURCE:
Frank 8 . Ross C o . ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
68
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Lip Gloss (Souffle) % by Wei u h t M a t e r i a1 s: 1 . Beeswax 7.0 2 . C e r a p h y l 140A 12.7 3. P r o p y l p a r a b e n 0.1 4. Tenox 4 0.1 70.0 5. Bentone Gel LOX r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 6 . Timeron P e a r l Sheen MP-30 5.0 0.4 7 . P i gment C o n c e n t r a t e * * 8 . Perfume 0.2 **Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e Castor O i l 60.0 40.0 C o l o r No. 3106 D&C Red No. 6 1 . Weigh i t e m 1 t h r o u g h 4 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e . Heat t o 85C u n t i l m e l t e d c l e a r . 2 . B r i n g t e m p e r a t u r e down t o 78C. Add and m i x i n i t e m 5 u s i n g a homomixer a t medium speed. M i x f o r a n o t h e r t e n m i n u t e s . 3 . A l l i t e m 6 and m i x f o r f i v e m i n u t e s o r u n t i l d i s p e r s e d ; t h e n add i t e m 7 and m i x f o r a n o t h e r f i v e m i n u t e s . 4. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t medium speed and l o w e r t e m p e r a t u r e t o 60C. Add i t e m 8 . Remove h e a t and s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l c o n g e a l e d o r pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r . P i gment Concent r a t e P r e p a r a t i on : 1 . Weigh d r y powder i n t o c a s t o r o i 1 u s i n g a s l o w speed H o b a r t type mixer u n t i l uniform. 2 . G i v e t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e t w o t o t h r e e passes o v e r a t h r e e r o l l m i l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . Roll-On Lip Gloss M a t e r i a1 s : % b y Wei a h t 1. Sucrose A c e t a t e I s o b u t y r a t e 30.0 2 . I s o p r o p y l a n 33 44.5 3. P r o p y l p a r a b e n 0.1 4 . Tenox 4 0.1 5 . Bentone Gel LO1 r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 22.5 6 . Pigment c o n c e n t r a t e * 0.2 7. P e a r l W h i t e 2.5 8 . Perfume 0.1 *Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e 60.00 Castor O i l 40.00 C o l o r No. 3106 D&C Red No. 6 1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 t h r o u g h 7 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e . Heat t o 80C u n t i l m e l t e d c l e a r . 2 . B r i n g t e m p e r a t u r e down t o 75C; add and m i x i n i t e m 5 u s i n g homomixer a t medium speed. M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 75C. 3. Add i t e m 6 and m i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l d i s p e r s e d ; t h e n add i t e m 7 and m i x f o r a n o t h e r 5 m i n u t e s . 4. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t medium speed and l o w e r t e m p e r a t u r e t o 60C. Add i t e m 8 . Remove h e a t and a l l o w mass t o come t o room temp. Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e P r e p a r a t i o n : 1 . Weigh d r y powder i n t o t h e c a s t o r o i 1 u s i n g a s l o w speed Hobart t y p e mixer u n t i l uniform. 2 , G i v e t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e two passes over a 3 r o l l m i l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . SOURCE: Rheox. I n c , : F o r m u l a s TS-135 & TS-184
Beauty Aids
This product u t i 1 B e l l i n a t o produce a s i l k y l a s t i n g colour Phase A: C a s t o r O i l (Caschem) Candel i11a Wax ( K o s t Carnauba Wax ( K o s t e r M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax C e r e s i n e 130/135 Wax Mineral O i l (Witco) C e t y l A l c o h o l (P&G)
69
Lip Pencil zes t h e d i s p e r s i v e p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera p r o d u c t w h i c h g l i d e s on e a s i l y , l e a v e s t h a t i s water r e s i s t a n t . 51.5%
r Keunen)
8.0%
Keunen) ( K o s t e r Keunen) ( K o s t e r Keunen)
7.0% 5.0% 3.0% 3.0% 1.5%
Phase B : Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) 8.0% I r o n O x i d e Brown ( W a r n e r - J e n k i n s o n ) 2 .O% T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) 8.0% D&C Red #6 ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) 3.0% Heat and m i x Phase B, d i s p e r s i n g p i g m e n t s and b r e a k i n g up v i s i b l e a g g l o m e r a t i o n . Add Phase A t o Phase 8 , h e a t and m i x t o g e t h e r u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 65C and p o u r i n t o m o l d s . Changing t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f waxes and or o i l s w i l l s o f t e n and h a r d e n t h e p r o d u c t t o m a i n t a i n c o n s i s t e n c y when changi n g p i g m e n t s and c o l o u r s . D i f f e r e n t p i g m e n t s w i l l a f f e c t t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e base and i s compensated f o r w i t h changes i n c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f waxes and o i l s used, Sunscreens can a l s o be i n c o r p o r a t e d w i t h o u t d i f f i c u l t f o r m u l a changes. New Look Lipstick T h i s r e d l i p s t i c k has a creamy t e x t u r e and i s l o n g w e a r i n g . The l i p s t i c k i s v e r y s t a b l e , a l t h o u g h i t has a h i g h o i l conc e n t r a t i o n . By u s i n g s y n t h e t i c r e p l a c e m e n t s o f n a t u r a l p r o d u c t s t h i s f o r m u l a i s o f v e r y l o w c o s t b u t l o o k s and p e r f o r m s l i k e a h i g h end p r o d u c t . 5.0% 1. NF Y e l l o w Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2 . S y n t h e t i c C a n d e l i l l a ( K o s t e r Keunen) 9.9% 3 . O z o k e r i t e 170 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 10.6% 4 . S y n t h e t i c Carnauba ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1.5% 5 . C a s t o r O i l (Caschem) 20 * 0% 6. P a r a f f i n O i l (Kydol-Witco) 15.3% 7 . E d i b l e Coconut O i l (Cocochem) 32.7% 8 . D&C Red #30 ( W a r n e r - J e n k i n s o n ) 4.5% 9 . T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C 8 D) 0.5% Add 1 , 5 , 8 and 9 i n t o a v e s s e l l a r g e enough t h a t w i l l a l l o w t h e o t h e r components t o be added a f t e r t h e beeswax, c a s t o r o i l and p i g m e n t s have been m e l t e d (75C.) and m i x e d t o g e t h e r w i t h t h e i n t e n t i o n o f b r e a k i n g down as many o f t h e v i s i b l e a g g l o m e r a t i o n s . A f t e r t h e v i s i b l e a g g l o m e r a t i o n s have been s e p a r a t e d , add 2, 3 and 4 t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n w h i l e m i x i n g . I n c r e a s e t h e t e m p e r a t u r e s l i g h t l y i f needed t o m e l t t h e s y n t h e t i c c a r n a u b a . Then t h e r e m a i n d e r of t h e components c a n be added and m i x e d a t a tempe r a t u r e o f 70C. A f t e r t h e p r o d u c t i s homogeneous u s e a shear m i x e r a t l o w speed f o r 45 t o 60 m i n u t e s , m a i n t a i n i n g a s i m i l a r temperature. S l i g h t changes i n o i l s and waxes w i l l n o t a l t e r t h e p r o d u c t s appearance o r p e r f o r m a n c e . Sunscreens a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d . SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
70
Cosmetic and Toilehy Formulations
Lipstick D e r m a c r y l LT p r o v i d e s i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e p r o t e c t i o n , r e s i s t a n c e and w a t e r r e s i s t a n c e .
rub-off
%m
Inqredients: Phase A : Eutanol G P r i s o r i ne 351 5 Ceraphyl I C A Cera1 an Dermacryl LT
6.00 20.00 2.70 5.00 2.00
Phase B: Flui lan Candel i11 a Wax O z o k e r i t e Wax C u t i n a LM D r a k e o l 35 Tenox BHA Propylparaben
10.00 12.00 5.00 10.00 5.00 0.10 0.20
Phase C : DC Red #6 ( D i s p e r s i o n i n C a s t o r O i l ) F1 amenco S u p e r p e a r l
15.00 5.00
Phase D: Vitamin E Acetate Vitamin E Palmitate
1 .oo 1.oo
Procedure: Combine Phase A, e x c e p t Dermacryl LT. Heat t o 80C. W i t h good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n Dermacryl LT, m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e . Combine Phase B, h e a t t o 80C. Add Phase B t o Phase A a t 8OC, m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Phase C: M i x p i g m e n t s t o g e t h e r , add t o A and B a t 80C. Cool t o 80C. Add Phase D , mix t h o r o u g h l y . Pour i n t o molds and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .
SOURCE:
N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co. : Formula 7661-1448
Beauty Aids
71
Lipstick A.
Wt%
S o f t i san 645 D y n a c e r i n 660 S o f t i s a n 100 M i g l y o l 812 Beeswax Eutanol G P r o s o l a l S9 PCL l i q u i d Protegin X
10.0 8.0 7.0 7.0 11.0 9.0 5.0 5.0 4.0
6 . Carnauba wax Castor o i l Hexylene g l y c o l Stearic acid T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t r e MP-115 Perfume o i l Tendresse D.
9.0 6.0 3.0 2.0 10.0 1.o
Colours: P i n k : Sicornet Rot P 15630 CA Red: Sicomet Rot P 15630 CA V i o l e t : Sicornet V i o l e t t P 77007 G
qs 0.5 3.0
0.5
Preparation: A l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e h e a t e d t o 75C and homogenised w i t h a h i g h speed s t i r r e r . The m i x i s p o u r e d i n t o moulds b e f o r e i t has got c o l d . Lip-Gloss
Wt% A.
B.
S o f t i s a n 645 S o f t i s a n 649 Rewopal P I B 1000 Lanf r a x Candel i 1 1a wax Pe a rl l u s t r e pigment* Colour Perfume
44.5 10.0 30.0 10.0
2.5 3.0 qs qs
* T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t r e MP 115 Preparation: A . i s m e l t e d a t 60C and s t i r r e d u n t i l c o o l e d down t o 4 0 C . The i n g r e d i e n t s o f B. a r e mixed t o g e t h e r and added t o A . F i n a l l y , t h e m i x i s homogenised.
SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Formulas
72
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Lipstick
wt%
M i g l y o l Gel 0 10.0 M i g l y o l 812 7.0 M i g l y o l 840 5.0 S o f t i g e n 701 7.0 Paraffin o i l 7.0 Isopropyl myristate 5.0 Castor o i l 9.0 E u t a n o l HD 5.0 Carnauba wax 8.0 Wool wax a l c o h o l 5.0 Beeswax 10.0 I m w i t o r 900 4.0 Oxynex 2004 0.20 Perfume o i l GC 10776 0.28 Talc 3.0 T i t a n i um d i o x i d e 3.0 Zinc oxide 3.0 T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t r e MP-115 5.0 Flame Orange 5305 No. 5 C.11994 1.7 L o M i c r o n Tan 3088 C . 11997 3.0 Preparation: A. i s mixed, E . i s added and h e a t e d t o 75-8OC. D i s f i n e l y ground w i t h A, t h e b e i n g s t i r r e d i n t o 0. i n small p o r t i o n s . Perfume i s added t o t h e m i x and a t 60C. i t i s p o u r e d i n t o t h e mould, w h i c h i s n o t c o o l e d . The m i x i s s e t b y s t o r i n g t h e mould one h o u r i n a r e f r i g e r a t o r . Lipstick, Glossy W
M i g l y o l Gel 8 S o f t i s a n 645 I m w i t o r 780K M i g l y o l 829 Lanfrax Beeswax Candel i 11a wax Castor o i l Sodi um s t e a r a t e 0 . Rewopal P I 0 1000 Antioxidants C . Perfume D . S i c o m e t E r y t h r o s i n l a c k E 127 T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t r e MP-115 Preparation : A. and B. a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r and h e a t e d t o a p p r o x . 8 0 C . added and t h e m i x i s homogenised. Perfume i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a p p r o x . 30C.
A.
SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . :
B
20.0 15.0 6.0 6.0 10.0 5.0 5.0 4.5
1. o 15.0 qs
qs
0.5 10.0 0.
i s
at
Formulations f o r Cosmetics: Formulas
Beauty Aids
73
Lipstick T h i s r e d l i p s t i c k has a creamy t e x t u r e and i s l o n g w e a r i n g . The l i p s t i c k i s v e r y s t a b l e , a l t h o u g h i t has a h i g h o i l conc e n t r a t i o n . Cera B e l l i n a a l l o w s f o r h i g h c o l o r a t i o n w i t h o u t l a r g e p i g m e n t l o a d and i m p a r t s a s a t i n l i k e f e e l t o t h e l i p s . Formu 1a : 1 . Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) 2 . C a n d e l i l l a ( K o s t e r Keunen) 3 . O z o k e r i t e 160/164 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 4 . Carnauba #1 Y e l l o w ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5 . C a s t o r O i l (Caschem) 6 . P a r a f f i n O i l (Kydol-Witco) 7 . Octyl Palmitate (Inolex) 8 . J o j o b a O i l ( J o j o b a Growers) 9 . V i t a m i n E (Freeman) l O . D & C Red #7 ( W a r n e r - J e n k i n s o n ) 1 l . O r a n g e Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 2 . T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) 1 3 . P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
16.70% 3.10% 4.20% 1.20% 43.45% 16.30% 6.20% 1 .OO% 0.50% 4.00% 3.00% 0.25% 0.10%
Procedure: Add 1, 10, 11, and 12 i n t o a v e s s e l l a r g e enough t h a t w i l l a l l o w t h e o t h e r components t o be added a f t e r t h e Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax), Orange Wax and p i g m e n t s have been m e l t e d (75C) and m i x e d t o g e t h e r w i t h t h e i n t e n t i o n o f b r e a k i n g down as many o f t h e v i s i b l e agglomerations. A f t e r t h e v i s i b l e agglomerations have been s e p a r a t e d add 2, 3 and 4 t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n w h i l e m i x i n g . I n c r e a s e t h e t e m p e r a t u r e s l i g h t l y i f needed t o m e l t t h e c a r n a u b a . Then t h e r e m a i n d e r o f t h e components c a n b e added and mixed a t a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 70C. A f t e r t h e p r o d u c t i s homogeneous, u s e a s h e a r m i x e r a t l o w speed f o r 45 t o 60 m i n u t e s , m a i n t a i n i n g a s i m i l a r temperature. A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : O t h e r o i l s n a t u r a l o r s y n t h e t i c can e a s i l y be s u b s t i t u t e d t o meet t h e f o r m u l a t o r s needs, c o s t , a v a i l a b i l i t y , e t c . w i t h o u t s i g n i f i c a n t l y c h a n g i n g t h e c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . H i g h e r me1t i n g p o i n t s can e a s i l y be a c h i e v e d w i t h o n l y s l i g h t a l t e r a t i o n s i n wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n . B i o l o g i c a l l y a c t i v e compounds a r e e a s l i y i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h e f o r m u l a s . Depending on t h e d e s i r e d c o l o r and t h e b l e n d o f p i g m e n t s used, t h e r e w i l l be a need f o r s m a l l i n g r e d i e n t c o n c e n t r a t i o n changes i n t h e f o r m u l a due t o t h e p i g m e n t ' s e f f e c t on t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e m i x t u r e .
SOURCE:
K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
74
Cosmetic and Toiletry FormuZutions
Lipstick
5 A.
2.0 6.5 5.5 2.0 16.8 3.0 15.0 10.0 23.2
Carnauba Wax Candel i11a Wax Beeswax Hydrogenated Castor O i l L i q u i d Lanolin M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 ine Wax 2-Octyldodecanol 2-Octyldodecyl Myri s t a t e Castor O i l
45 : 4.5 3.5 1.3 2.2
8 . P e a r l Pigment T i t a n i um D i o x i d e Amihope LL Red O x i d e o f I r o n O r g a n i c P i gment (Red)
Procedure: 1 . M i x ( A ) and ( e ) , and d i s s o l v e a t 80C. 2 . Knead them w i t h a r o l l . 3. D i s s o l v e a t 80C. 4 . Remove s m a l l b u b b l e s i n a vacuum, and t h e n p r e s s . N o t e : T h i s l i p s t i c k has smooth t o u c h ,
and spreads w e l l
Lipstick Formulae The a d d i t i o n o f Eldew CL-301 r e s u l t s i n a p r e p a r a t i o n w i t h r e m a r k a b l e s p r e a d a b i l i t y , i m p r o v e d l u s t e r and e x c e l l e n t c o l o r without reducing the strength.
5 A
Castor O i l Candel i11a Carnauba Ozokerite Capryl i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e Eldew CL-301
B
Mica Ye1 l o w i r o n o x i d e D&C Red #7 Amihope LL
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA,
55.0 4.8 2.0 4.0 15.0 5.0 7.4 2.2
3.0 1.6 Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
BeautyAids
75
Liquid Foundation Part A: Hydroxypropyl Methyl C e l l u l o s e Magnabri t e Water Talc
Weight% 0.4 0.4 56.26 3.00
Part 0 : C e t e a r e t h 15 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Glyceryl Stearate Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Isosteari c Acid Carnation M i neral O i 1
5.00 5.00 3.00 5.00 4.00 4.00 6.00
Part C: T i t a n i um D i o x i d e I r o n Oxides
6.00 0.94
Part D: Germaben I 1
1 .oo
Procedure: B l e n d t o g e t h e r M a g n a b r i t e and h y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e and s i f t i n t o v o r t e x o f w a t e r w i t h maximum s h e a r . When d i s p e r s e d , add t a l c . Heat t o 80C. Add o i l phase, s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e and i r o n o x i d e s . M i l l t o d i s p e r s e p i g m e n t s . Add D . Cool w i t h m i x i n g t o 32C. Powder Foundation Talc Titanium dioxide Sericite S p h e r i c a l s i 1i c a P o l y t e t r a f l u o r o e t h y l e n e powder Red i r o n o x i d e Yellow i r o n oxide B1 ack i r o n o x i d e Dimethylpolysi loxane Carnation Mineral O i 1 Sorbitan sesquioleate Preservative Fragrance
17.0% 10.0
40.0 10.0 10.0 0.5 1.0
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formulations
0.1
1.o 9.0 1.o 0.3 0.1
76
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Liquid Make-Up T h i s formula demonstrates t h e s t a b i l i t y , d i s p e r s i v e q u a l i t i e s and r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a i n a h i g h p i g m e n t l o a d , v e g e t a b l e o i l and h y d r o c a r b o n o i l f r e e p r o d u c t . The p r o d u c t i s q u i c k d r y i n g on t h e s k i n l e a v i n g a s o f t v e l v e t l i k e f e e l , f o r a flawless, long wearing n a t u r a l l o o k .
O i l Phase: I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) C e r a B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) S i l i c o n e O i 1 556 (Dow) C e r e s i n e Wax 130/135 ( K o s t e r Keunen) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Witco) E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF ( K o s t e r Keunen) PEG-1 00 S t e a r a t e ( L i p o ) Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
14.50% 6.00% 4.50% 1.50% 0.80% 0.70% 0.50% 0.30% 0 * 20%
Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d ) Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( A l d r i c h ) C i t r i c Acid (Aldrich) B e r m o c a l l E230 ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
51 - 0 5 % 0 60% 0.50% 0.20%
Pigment Phase: T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) I r o n O x i d e Y e l l o w 7055 ( W a r n e r - J e n k i n s o n ) I r o n O x i d e Brown 7058 ( W a r n e r - J e n k i n s o n ) M i c a (Rona) I r o n O x i d e Red 7067 ( W a r n e r - J e n k i n s o n )
0.20% 13.50% 2.70% 1.20% 1.00% 0.50%
Procedure: M e l t o i l phase t o a maximum o f 75C and m i x , m a k i n g s u r e a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e m e l t e d . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l d i s s o l v e t h e compo n e n t s o f t h e w a t e r p h a s e . Add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase, m a i n t a i n i n g t h e t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C f o r a p p r o x i m a t e l y 15 m i n u t e s . A l l o w t o c o o l s l o w l y . When t h e t e m p e r a t u r e i s 55 t o 60C, add t h e p i g m e n t phase u n d e r h i g h s h e a r . A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Changing t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f w a t e r ( i n c r e a s e ) and s o l i d s ( d e c r e a s e ) b y s m a l l amounts w i l l c o n t r o l t h e v i s c o s i t y . A v a r i e t y o f p i g m e n t s can be s u b s t i t u t e d t o s u i t p r o d u c t s needs.
SOURCE:
K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Beauty Aids
77
Liquid Makeup % b v Wei q h t Materials: 5.00 1 . T a l c 1623 5.00 2 . 328 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e CTFA 3 . C o l o r No. 3170 Pur Oxy Y e l l o w B.C. 0.40 4 . C o l o r N o . 3315 Pur Oxy Umber B . C . 0.20 5 . C o l o r No. 2511 L o - M i c r o n P i n k B . C . 0.40 6 . Water ( d e i o n i z e d ) 79.95 7. Methylparaben 0.25 5.00 8 . Propylene Glycol 9 . Cerasynt 840 2.00 1 0 . B e n t o n e LT r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 1.50 0.30 11.Perfume Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . P a r t 1 - I n a powder b l e n d e r , add i t e m s 1 t h r o u g h 5 and m i x t o g e t h e r f o r 20 m i n u t e s . Remove powder f r o m b l e n d e r and p u t through a micropulverizer. 2 . P a r t 2-Add i t e m s 6 t h r o u g h 9 t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l and h e a t t o 65C. U s i n g a homomixer a t medium speed, add and m i x i n i t e m 1 0 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 20 t o 30 m i n u t e s u n t i l completely d i spersed. 3 . Cool P a r t 2 t o 4 0 C and add and m i x i n itern 1 1 . 4 . W i t h c o n t i n u o u s m i x i n g a t medium speed, add P a r t 1 t o P a r t 2 and m i x t o g e t h e r f o r 15 m i n u t e s . 5 . Put e n t i r e m i x t u r e through a c o l l o i d m i l l f o r u n i f o r m pigment grinding. Formula TS-116 Silky Facial Mask % bv Weight Materials: Part A: 1 . D . I . Water 76.3 5.0 2. Propylene Glycol 3. M i r a n o l 2MHT Modi f i e d 3.0 4 . M e t h y l Paraben 0.1 Part B: 5. P a r i c i n 9 2.0 4.0 6 . I s o p r o p y l a n 50 7 . P r o p y l Paraben 0.1 Part C: 8 . Bentone MA R h e o l o g i c a l A d d i t i v e 4.0 9 . Z i n c Oxide 3.0 10.328 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 2.5 Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 t h r o u g h 4 i n t o a s t a i n l e e s s s t e e l steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e . Heat P a r t A t o 6%. 2 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , add i t e m s 5 t h r o u g h 7 and h e a t t o 6 5 C . M i x u n t i 1 c o m p l e t e l y m e l t e d and homogeneous. 3 . M i x P a r t B s l o w l y i n t o P a r t A w h i l e m i x i n g . M i x f o r 15 t o 20 m i n . , and b r i n g t e m p e r a t u r e down t o 55C w h i l e m i x i n g . 4 . M i x P a r t C s e p a r a t e l y u s i n g a homomixer and add t o above m i x t u r e w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M i x i t f o r 15 m i n u t e s . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e and p a s s t h r o u g h C o l l o i d M i l l . F o r m u l a TS-252 SOURCE: Rhone P o u l e n c I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
78
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Lotion Scrub Part A: WX4 Water 36.2 A l o e Vera Gel 1.o Germaben I 1 1.8 Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e ( 1 ) 1. o P a r t B: 5.0 Glycol Stearate ( 2 ) S a f f 1ower O i 1 0.5 0.5 Sesame O i l Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (3) 0.5 Part C: Sodium L a u r y l E t h e r S u l f a t e ( 4 ) 20.0 Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 4 ) 18.0 0.5 Cocamide DEA ( 5 ) Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ( 6 ) 5.0 P a r t D: A c u s c r u b 44 10.0 Procedure: S l o w l y add t h i c k e n e r ( 2 ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Heat t o 70C. S e p a r a t e l y combine P a r t B and P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s , t h e n add t o P a r t A, m i x i n g w e l l between a d d i t i o n s . A t 50C, m o d e r a t e l y add A c u s c r u b 44 and s t i r u n t i l smooth & u n i form. 1 . Veegum 2 . Emerest 2350 3 . M e t h o c e l 40-100 4 . S i p o n ES, S i p o n LCP 5 . N i n o l 49-CE 6. Lexaine C Lotion Hand Scrub
Part A: Sodi um C14-16 01 e f in S u l f o n a t e ( 1 ) 30.0 6.7 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (2) 2.0 Cocamide DEA ( 3 ) G1 y c o l S t e a r a t e I .o Ammoni um Chl o r ide 2.5 Germaben I 1 0.8 Water 50.0 Part 8: 2.0 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ( 4 ) Part C: A c u s c r u b 44 5.0 Procedure: Heat w a t e r t o 70C, t h e n s l o w l y add r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . Cool t o 55C, add P a r t 0 w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add P a r t C w i t h a g i t a t i o n and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. ( 1 ) W i t c o n a t e AOS ( 3 ) N i n o l 49-CE (2) L e x a i n e C ( 4 ) C r o t e i n SPA
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids
Low Cost, Extended Wear Lipstick R e s u l t i n g l i p s t i c k has e x c e p t i o n a l s h i n e , adherence and wear a t t r i b u t e s . When a p p l i e d t o l i p s , t h e f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s a c o m f o r t a b l e non-waxy f i l m , w h i c h r e s i s t s m i g r a t i o n and f e a t h e r i n g . The shade o f t h i s f o r m u l a i s a c l e a n , t r u e , h i g h chroma r e d w i t h moderate o p a c i t y .
w C a s t o r O i l NF ( C r y s t a l 0) C a n d e l i l l a Wax (S&P 75) Carnauba Wax (S&P # 1 Y e l l o w 73) M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax (S&P 1 8 ) Beeswax (S&P W h i t e NF 422P) T o c o p h e r o l ( C o p h e r o l F-1300) P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d P) B u t y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d B) D&C Red No. 6 B a r i u m Lake, C I #15850:2
(C19-012) D&C Red No. 7 C a l c i u m Lake, C I #15850:1 (C19-011) FD&C Y e l l o w No. 5 Aluminum Lake, C I #19140:1 (C65-4429) C a s t o r O i l ( C r y s t a l 0) C . G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer ( L e x o r e z 100)
61.66 8.30 2.05 4.20 1.87 0.12 0.08 0.05
1 .38 0.97 2.74 11 - 8 8 4.70
Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n " A " h e a t i n g t o 9OC. M i x s l o w l y ( b e s u r e n o t t o e n t r a p a i r ) u n t i l t h e phase i s c l e a r and homogeneous, t h e n r e d u c e t e m p e r a t u r e t o 80 t o 85C. C o n t i n u e s l o w m i x i n g . 2 . D i s p e r s e p i g m e n t s i n s e c t i o n "B'l i n t h e c a s t o r o i l c o n t a i n ed i n Phase "Btr b y a d d i n g t h e d r y p i g m e n t s t o t h e c a s t o r o i l and b l e n d i n g w i t h a s p a t u l a , t h e n d i s p e r s e u s i n g a Cowles d i s s o l v e r and f i n a l l y pass t h e b l e n d t h r o u g h a t h r e e r o l l e r m i l l t h r e e t i m e s or u n t i l t h e p a r t i c l e s i z e o f t h e p i g m e n t s a r e l e s s t h a n number 7 on a Haggeman gauge. 3 . When s e c t i o n "B" is adequate1 y d i s p e r s e d , add s e c t i o n "B" t o s e c t i o n " A " . C o n t i n u e s l o w a g i t a t i o n and m a i n t a i n a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 80 t o 85C. 4. When s e c t i o n s "AB" i s homogenous add s e c t i o n "C" t o "AB". M a i n t a i n a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 80 t o 85C and m i x s l o w l y u n t i l homogeneous. 5 . M o l d s t i c k s a t 80-85C.
SOURCE:
I n o l e x Chemical CO. : F o r m u l a t i o n 398-152-1
79
80
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Low Cost Lipstick R e s u l t i n g l i p s t i c k i s a l o w c o s t f o r m u l a t i o n t h a t exh b i t s good a p p l i c a t i o n c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s and i s c o m f o r t a b l e on 1 p s . W e a r a b i l i t y o f t h e l i p s t i c k i s l i m i t e d . F e a t h e r i n g and rn g r a t i o n o f t h e l i p s t i c k f i l m w o u l d be e x p e c t e d . The shade o f t h i s f o r m u l a i s a c l e a n , t r u e , h i g h chroma r e d w i t h m o d e r a t e o p a c i t y .
%w/w
C a s t o r O i l NF ( C r y s t a l 0 ) 66.36 8.30 C a n d e l i l l a Wax (S&P 75) Carnauba Wax (S&P #1 Y e l l o w 73) 2.05 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax (S&P 18) 4.20 1.87 Beeswax (S&P W h i t e NF 422P) T o c o p h e r o l ( C o p h e r o l F-1300) 0.12 0.08 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) B u t y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d 8) 0.05 1.38 8 . D&C Red No. 6 B a r i u m Lake, C I #15850:2 (C19-012) D&C Red No. 7 C a l c i u m Lake, C I #15850:1 (C19-011) 0.97 FD&C Y e l l o w No. 5 Aluminum Lake, C I #19140:1 (C65-4429) 2.74 11 - 8 8 C a s t o r O i l ( C r y s t a l 0) Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n " A " h e a t i n g t o QOC. M i x s l o w l y ( b e s u r e n o t t o e n t r a p a i r ) u n t i l t h e phase i s c l e a r and homogeneous, t h a n r e d u c e t e m p e r a t u r e t o 80 t o 85C. C o n t i n u e s l o w m i x i n g . 2 . D i s p e r s e p i g m e n t s i n s e c t i o n "8" i n t h e c a s t o r o i l c o n t a i n e d i n phase " 0 " b y a d d i n g t h e d r y p i g m e n t s t o t h e c a s t o r o i l and b l e n d i n g w i t h a s p a t u l a , t h e n d i s p e r s e u s i n g a Cowles d i s s o l v e r and f i n a l l y pass t h e b l e n d t h r o u g h a t h r e e r o l l e r m i l l t h r e e times o r u n t i l t h e p a r t i c l e s i z e o f t h e pigments a r e l e s s t h a n number 7 on a Haggeman gauge. 3 . When s e c t i o n "B" i s a d e q u a t e l y d i s p e r s e d , add s e c t i o n " 6 " t o s e c t i o n " A " . C o n t i n u e s l o w a g i t a t i o n and m a i n t a i n a temperat u r e o f 80 t o 85C. 4 . M o l d s t i c k s a t 80-85C. Formula 398-152-2 Lip Balm R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a p r o t e c t i v e l i p balm t h a t e x h i b i t s e x t e n d e d wear. c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s due t o L e x o r e z 1 0 0 . The p r o d u c t c o u l d be p o s i t i o n e d as an o v e r t h e c o u n t e r (OTC) p h a r m a c e u t i c a l s k i n p r o t e c t a n t w i t h p e t r o l a t u m as t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t , and as a s u n s c r e e n , w i t h o c t y l methoxycinnamate as t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t
A.
% & Jy.
O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e ( E s c a l o l 557) P e t r o l a t u m USP (Super W h i t e ) G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer ( L e x o r e z 100) P e t r o l a t u m ( a n d ) Lanol i n A l c o h o l ( L e x a t e PX) C a n d e l i l l a Wax (S&P 75) Carnauba Wax (S&P #1 Y e l l o w 73) Procedure: 1 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 80C. 2 . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. 3. Cool t o 65C and f i l l i n t o p r o p e l - r e p e l c o n t a i n e r s . F o r m u l a 383-186 SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Go. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
10.00 20.00 10.00 49.00 8.00 3.00
BeauvAids
81
Makeup Foundation T h i s r i c h , e l e g a n t f o u n d a t i o n i n c o r p o r a t e s Geahlene 750 f o r added m o i s t u r i z a t i o n and smooth a p p l i c a t i o n . I n s r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Dei o n i zed Water Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e / V e e g -u m U l t r a Xakthan Gum/Kel t r o l N y l o n - l 2 / O r g a s o l 2002D N a t u r a l E x t r a Cos Sodi um P C A / A j idew N-50 Dei o n i zed Water Propylene Glycol Iron O x i d e s (and) T a I c / L o M i c r o n P i n k I r o n O x i d e s (and) T a l c / L o M i c r o n Y e l l o w I r o n O x i d e s (and) T a l c / L o M i c r o n B l a c k T i t a n i um O i o x i de/3328 T i t a n i um D i o x i d e G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e / L e x e m u l 55G S t e a r i c A c i d/Emersol 132 DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amphisol M e t h y l p a r a b e n (and) B u t y l p a r a b e n (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben/Nipastat I s o s t e a r y l Neopentanoate/Dermol 185 M i n e r a l O i l (and) H y d r o g e n a t e d B u t y l e n e / E t h y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer ( a n d ) H y d r o g e n a t e d E t h y l e n e / P r o p y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer//Geahlene 750 Phenoxyethanol/Emeressence 1160 Tocopherol Acetate/Vitamin E Acetate
Weight% 46.50 0.80 0.30 1.20 1 .oo 10.00 7.00 0.40 2.00 0.15 5.60 2.00 2.00 2.00 0.25 3.00
15.00 0.70 0.10
Procedure: D i s p e r s e Veegum U1t r a in t o r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i zed w a t e r . M i x w e l l . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s , m i x i n g w e l l a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , homogenize p a r t B u n t i l smooth. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . Heat t o 8OC. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat p a r t C t o 8OC and mix u n t i l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t C t o p a r t A . M i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s u n t i l homogeneous. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 35C.
SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
82
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Mascara
Wt% A.
2.0 0.1 1.5 63.0
Veegum pharm T y l o s e CB 3 0 0 0 0 1,2-Propylene g l y c o l Water
B . M i g l y o l Gel B
I m w i t o r 780 K Beeswax M i g l y o l 812 Sicomet B l a c k 80 C . 1 C.
77499
Morpho1 i ne Colophonium L u v i s k o l VA 64 E t h a n o l 96% P r e s e r v a t ive
10.4 3.0 5.0 2.0 4.0 0.4 1.5 ,2 . 0 5.0 qs
Preparation: The i n a r e d i e n t s o f A a r e b r o u g h t t o g e t h e r and h e a t e d t o 75-80C. Those o f B . a r e ’ b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and homogenised. A . i s e m u l s i f i e d i n B . C . i s d i s s o l v e d and e m u l s i f i e d n A . and 8 . a t a p p r o x . 3 0 C .
Eyebrow Pencil, Heat Stable
WtS/o A.
S o f t i s a n 100 S o f t i s a n 378 M i g l y o l 812 S o f t i s a n 645 S o f t i s a n 154 Beeswax
B. T a l c Titanium dioxide Zinc oxide Sicomet B l a c k 80 C . 1 C.
16.0 8.0 8.0 3.0 2.0 3.0 20.0 18.0 18.0 77499
5.0
Perfume
qs
P r e p a r a t i on : The i n g r e d i e n t s o f B. a r e v e r y f i n e l y g r o u n d . The f a t s A . a r e m e l t e d and s t i r r e d s l o w l y i n t o t h e p i g m e n t s , Perfume i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t around 30C. T h i s i s f o l l o w e d by p o u r i n g i n t o moulds o r e x t r u s i o n .
SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s :
Formulas
Beaury Aids
83
Moisture Stick Base
%
47.0 28.0 2.0 10.0 2.0 10.0 1. o
M i n e r a l O i 1 80/90 V i s c . Ross Wax 26-1152 Ross Wax 15-1 182 Ross Wax 1824 Jojoba O i l Amerlate P Vitamin E
Procedure: M e l t a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r i n a k e t t l e t o 170F under a g i t a t i o n . When m i x e d t h o r o u g h l y p o u r i n t o m o l d s . Capping may be n e c e s s a r y . Cream Rouge Formula
%
Part A: Ross R e f i n e d #1 Y e l l o w Carnauba Wax Ross O z o k e r i t e Wax 77W Mineral O i l Isopropyl Palmitate
6.0 10.0 24.0 27.0
P a r t B: Talc T i t a n i um D i o x i d e Color
10.0 20.0 3.0
Procedure: M e l t P a r t A t o 70C. When c o o l e d r u n t o g e t h e r w i t h P a r t 0 on a three r o l l m i l l . Pot Eyeshadow Inqredients: M i n e r a l O i l 70/80 Petrolatum Ross O z o k e r i t e Wax 77W Ross Ref ined Candel i11 a L i g h t F1akes Pigment P a s t e Preservative
Procedure: G r i n d c o l o r w i t h o i l and p e t r o l a t u m i n r o l l e r m i l l . Heat waxes u n t i l m e l t e d and add p i g m e n t p a s t e . M a i n t a i n 85C f o r 30 m i n u t e s w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Pour i n t o m o l d s . SOURCE: F r a n k 8 .
Ross
Co.,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
%
40.0 15.0 20.0 4.0 20.0 1. o
84
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisturizing Liposomal Gel I n a r e d ients: 1 A) Cremophor RH 410 2 F r a g r a n c e : PCV 1454
% w/w 5,00 0,10
B ) Water demi n e r a l ized Glycerin N i pagi n E u x y l K-200 6 7 Phytaluronate 8 F i t o b r o s i de 9 A1 1a n t o i n 10 C a r b o p o l 941 11 T r i e t h a n o l a m i ne
81,50 2,00 0,15
3 4 5
0,30 5,00 5,00 0,30
0,30 0,35
Procedure: Dissolve item 2 i n item 1. D i s s o l v e i t e m s 4-9 i n w a t e r ( 3 ) . Under s t i r r i n g , s l o w l y add phase B ) t o phase A ) . For t h i c k e n i n g , i n c o r p o r a t e and d i s s o l v e i t e m 10. A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h i t e m 11 t o 7 . 0 . A t u r b i d , f l u i d s o l u t i o n i s o b t a i n e d . A p p l i c a t i o n No. D 018.A/02.93 Skin Tightening Gel
Ina r ed ie n t s : 1 A ) Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d 2 Phenoni p 3 E u x y l K-200 4 Glucam E-10
% w/w 87 95 0;30 0,20 5,00 I
5 6
B ) C a r b o p o l 940 Triethanolamine
0,80
7
C ) P e n t a c a r e HP
5,00
Procedure: D i s s o l v e i t e m s 2-4 i n w a t e r ( 1 ) . S t i r f a s t and i n c o r p o r a t e i t e m 5 . N e u t r a l i z e and t h i c k e n i t e m 6 . S l o w l y add i t e m 7 . A p p l i c a t i o n No. D 0 3 2 . 0 / 0 6 . 9 3
SOURCE:
Pentapharm L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
0,75
Beauty Aids
Moisturizing Make-Up Foundation % BY Weiaht
3.0 64.5 8.0 15.0 1.6 0.25
( A ) P h o s p h o l i p i d SV 0 . 5 % K e l z a n AR i n 1% NaCl P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Pigment ( 9 / 1 2 White/Brown) Steareth-20 M e t h y l Paraben
2.0 2.0 2.4
(B) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e Hexyl L a ur ate Steareth-2 Dow F l u i d 200/100 P r o p y l Paraben
1.o
cs.
0.25
Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n phases A and B as shown and h e a t t o 55C. B l e n d phase B i n t o phase A w i t h s u f f i c i e n t h o m o g e n i z a t i o n t o e n s u r e good e m u l s i f i c a t i o n . S t i r c o o l t o 40C, add f r a g r a n c e , and package. Comments: T h i s l i q u i d f o u n d a t i o n i s enhanced b y t h e p r e s e n c e o f Phosp h o l i p i d EFA w h i c h a i d s i n b i n d i n g t h e p i g m e n t t o s k i n f o r a longer l a s t i n g a p p l i c a t i o n . Further b e n e f i t s obtained by u s i n g Phosphol ip i d EFA i n c l ude a smooth, n o n - c h a l k y a p p l i c a t i o n and a n o n - d r y i n g a f t e r f e e l on t h e s k i n .
Skin Cleanser Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( 1 mole 25%) Monamate LNT-40 Monamid 716 Phosphol ip i d PTC Water Sodi um C h l o r i d e
% By Weiaht 28.00 12.50
3.00 2.50 52.75 1.25
Procedure: B l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Add c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e as r e q u i r e d . Package. Typical Properties: Appearance: C l e a r l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y : A p p r o x i m a t e l y 3 , 0 0 0 cps
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,
Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
85
86
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisturizing Milk with High Electrolyte Content Inaredients: A r l a t o n e 985 B r i j 721 Mineral o i l C a p r y l ic / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e s
A
B
Propylene g l y c o l Urea Sodium c h l o r i d e Water
C
*Preservative *Perfume
s/ow/w 4.00 2.00 5.00 5.00 3.80 10.00 5.00 65.20
*qq.s. these ingredients.
Procedure: Heat ( A ) and ( B ) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add ( B ) t o ( A ) s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e . Remove f r o m t h e homogenizer and a l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (C) and c o o l t o 30C. Package. W/O Hydrating Body Milk
Inaredients: A r l a c e l 1689 A r l a m o l HD A r l a m o l M812 A r l a m o l DOA Paraffin o i l
A
B
C
Glycerol MgS04.7H20 *Preservative Water Perfume *q.s.
%w/w 3.50 8.00 4.00 4.00 5.50 4.00 0.50 70.35 0.15
these ingredients.
Procedure: Heat ( A ) and (B) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add ( B ) t o (A) s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e f o r one m i n u t e . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (C) and w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Package.
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids Nail Polish Remover
WtO/o Ethyl acetate Butyl acetate Driveron S D i o n i l OC/K S o l v e n t APV B u t y l t r igl y c o l
25.0 25.0 23.0 10.0 10.0 7.0
Preparation : The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e added t o each o t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i1 homogeneous. Nail Polish Remover
Wt% Ethyl acetate Vestinol C Ethylt r i g lycol Castor o i l Paraffin o i l
50.0 28.0 10.0 10.0 2.0
Preparation: The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e added t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous.
SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Formulas
87
88
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Non-Feathering Extended Wear Lipstick R e s u l t i n g product i s a moldable l i p s t i c k w i t h exceptional s h i n e , a p p l i c a t i o n and e x t e n d e d wea a t t r i b u t e s . When a p l i e d t o l i p s , t h e f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s a corn o r t a b l e non-waxy f i m , w h i c h r e s i s t s m i g r a t i o n and f e a t h e r ng. Droop p o i n t o f he s t i c k i s above 43C. A . C a s t o r O i l ( C r y s t a l 0) QS t o 100 8.23 C a n d e l i l l a Wax (S&P 75) 2.07 Carnauba Wax (S&P #1 Y e l l o w 73) 4.19 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax (S&P 1 8 ) Beeswax- (S&P W h i t e NF-422P) 1.08 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 1 . 0 9 P e t r o l a t u m ( a n d ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ( L e x a t e PX) 2.01 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e x o l GT-865) 1.08 O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( L e x o l EHS) 2.06 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i c r a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ( L e x o l PG-865) 1 . 0 6 S i l i c a (Cab-0-Si1 M-5) 0.13 T o c o p h e r o l ( C o p h e r o l F-1300) 0.12 P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d P) 0.08 0.05 B u t y l paraben ( L e x g a r d B) G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer ( L e x o r e z 100) 4.77 B . Pigments
5.00-1'3.00
Procedure: 1 . Combine s u f f i c i e n t c a s t o r o i l f r o m s e c t i o n "A" w i t h p i g m e n t s i n s e c t i o n lfB't i n a r a t i o o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 2 p a r t s c a s t o r o i l t o 1 p a r t pigments. 2 . D i s p e r s e p i g m e n t s i n s t e p number 1, f i r s t w i t h a Cowles d i s s o l v e r , t h e n reduce t h e pigment p a r t i c l e s i z e t o l e s s t h a n number 7 on a Haggeman gauge by p a s s i n g t h e d i s p e r s i o n through a t h r e e r o l l e r m i l l . 3 . Combine t h e b a l a n c e o f i n g r e d i e n t s i n s e c t i o n "A", heating t o 85-9OC. 4. B e g i n a g i t a t i o n as soon as waxes b e g i n t o m e l t . A g i t a t e s l o w l y . Do n o t e n t r a p a i r . 5. When s e c t i o n "A" i s homogeneous and a t 85-90C, add s e c t i o n "Bll t o s e c t i o n " A " . 6 . Pour i n t o molds a t 80-85C.
SOURCE:
I n o l e x Chemical Co.:
Formula 398-62-2
Beauty Aids
89
Oil/Water Matte Cream Makeup
Ingred ien t s : A Magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1 ic a t e Sodium c a r b o x y m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e Water, d e i o n i zed B
C
2.60 0.40 42.40
D i s p e r s i n g agent Propylene g l y c o l Water
0.30
5.00 12.30
Talc Kaolin T i t a n i um d i o x i d e
18.50 1.30 3.70
D
I r o n oxides Isopropyl myri s t a t e
1.50 5.00
E
A r l a c e l 20 and Tween 20
3.00
F
S t e a r y l a l c o h o l and A m e r i c h o l
4.00
Procedure: B l e n d d r y i n g r e d i e n t s o f ( A ) and add t o w a t e r s l o w l y a g i t a t i n g u n t i l smooth. M i c r o p u l v e r i z e (C) and add t o ( B ) . M i l l t o o b t a i n a smooth p a s t e . Add (8-C) t o (A) and h e a t t o 65C. Heat (D,E,F) t o 70C and add t o (A,B,C) b l e n d . M i x u n t i 1 c o o l . Lip Balm Insredients: A S y n t h e t i c Spermaceti Petrolatum G1 y c e r o l m o n o s t e a r a t e C a p r y l ic / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e , Squalane, Robane B
Allantoin Lemon o i l , Menthol
w
10.00 40 00 26.00 13.60 I
Neobee M-5
10.00 0.20
USP
0.10 0.10
Procedure: M e l t ( A ) u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add ( 6 ) and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. Pour i n m o l d s . SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
90
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Oil-In-Water Milk Emulsion Ingredients: A A r l a t o n e 985 B r i j 721 C a p r y l ic / c a p r ic t r ig 1y c e r ides A r l a m o l HD
o/ow/w
B
1.25
C
Propylene g l y c o l G-2330 Water
4.00 2.00 5.00 5.00 1.25 81.50
*Preservative *Perfume *q.s.
these ingredients.
Procedure: Heat ( A ) and ( B ) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e when e m u l s i o n r e a c h e s a p p r o x i m a t e l y 40C. Add (C) b e l o w 35C. F o r m u l a t i o n F41-3-2 Oil-In-Water Milk Emulsion Ingredients: A r l a t o n e 985 B r i j 721 Arlamol S7 Mineral o i l
A
4.00 2.00 6.00 5.00 4.00 79.00
B
G-2330 Water
C
*Preservative *Perfume *q.s.
%w/w
these ingredients.
Procedure: H e a t ( A ) and (B) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add (B) t o ( A ) s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e . Remove f r o m t h e homogenizer and a l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (C) and c o o l t o 30C. Package. F o r m u l a F44-6-4
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Ai&
91
One Coat Mascara T h i s i s a l o n g w e a r i n g , n o n - f l a k i n g mascara w h i c h c o a t s t h e l a s h e s e v e n l y i n one c o a t . The f o r m u l a t i o n s e p a r a t e s l a s h e s e a s i l y d u r i n g a p p l i c a t i o n and does n o t clump. The f o r m u l a t i o n does n o t f l a k e d u r i n g wear and has t h e a d d i t i o n a l b e n e f i t o f washing o f f e a s i l y w i t h o u t t h e need f o r t h e use o f s p e c i a l eye make-up removers o r h a r s h s c r u b b i n g .
%w/w A.
D e i o n i z e d Water Col l o i d a l Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e (Veegum H V ) H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (QP-15,000-H) Xanthan Gum ( K e l t r o l T ) Pigment ( P u r Oxy Y e l l o w BC and Pur Oxy B l a c k BC) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d M) Propylparaben (Lexgard P)
8 . PVP/VA Copolymer ( L u v i s k o l 73W) I m i d a z o l id i n y l Urea ( G e r m a l l 115 ) T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA (Hamp-ene Na4)
57.70 1.80 2.70 4.45 8.95 0.18 0.09
10.00 0.20 0.08
C . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 2.00 Beeswax NF (S&P W h i t e NF 422P) 4.75 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 3.50 G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer 3.50 ( L e x o r e z 100) S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e NF ( A r l a c e l 60) 0.10
Procedure: 1 . Combine "A" e x c e p t f o r t h e p i g m e n t s and h e a t t o 80-85C. When t e m p e r a t u r e i s reached, homogenize m i x t u r e s l o w l y a d d i n g p i gments. 2 . Combine l'C1' and h e a t t o 80-85C. S l o w l y add t o " A " . 3 . M i x "AC" f o r f i v e m i n u t e s . Add r l B r l t o "AC" and homogenize f o r f i f t e e n m i n u t e s on medium speed w h i l e c o o l i n g . 4. A t 60C t r a n s f e r b a t c h t o t a n k e q u i p p e d w i t h a d o u b l e - a c t i o n side-sweep a g i t a t o r . M i x and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . 5. A d j u s t s o l i d s l e v e l t o 59.1+-0.1%. S o l i d s were r u n i n a l l O C oven f o r one h o u r .
SOURCE:
Inolex
Chemical Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n 383-185
92
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Overnight Facial Moisturizer A p o w e r f u l m o i s t u r i z e r d e s i g n e d t o r e s t o r e t h e normal s t a t e o f h e a l t h y s k i n . The h i g h s u b s t a n t i v i t y t o w a r d s s k i n h e l p s t o p r o v i d e mo s t u r e r e g u l a t i o n . % by Weight
P a r t A: Phosphol ip d EFA PEG-32 Glyceri n Water
4.00 2.00 2.00 73.00
P a r t B: Steareth-2 C e t e a r y l A1 coho1 Cetyl Palmitate Myri s t y 1 Myri s t a t e Isopropyl Palmitate D i m e t h i cone ( 1 OOcS)
2.50 4.00 4.00 4.00 3.00 1 .50
B l e n d and h e a t b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y t o 70C. Homogenize ( B ) i n t o ( A ) w i t h c o n t i n u e d h e a t f o r an a p p r o p r i a t e t i m e w h i l e a v o i d i n g a e r a t i o n . S t i r - c o o l t o 45-50C, t h e n add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r i n g , o r p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d and f i l l . Moisturizing Make-Up Foundation An e l e g a n t p r o d u c t c o n t a i n i ng Phosphol i p i d EFA w h i c h p r o v i d e s smooth f e e l and c o v e r a g e w h i l e e l i m i n a t i n g t h e normal d r y i n g e f f e c t s o f c o s m e t i c p i g m e n t s on s k i n . Part A: Phosphol ip i d EFA 0 . 5 % K e l z a n AR i n 0 . 1 % NaCl Pigment Steareth-20 M e t h y l Paraben
Oh By W e i s h t 3.00 72.50 15.00 1.80 0.25
P a r t 8: Isopropyl Myri s t a t e Hexyl L a u r a t e Steareth-2 D i m e t h y l p o l y s i l o x a n e (2OOcS) P r o p y l Paraben
2.00 2.00 2.40 1 .oo 0.25
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y and h e a t t o 65C. Homogenize P a r t A t h o r o u g h l y . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and c o n t i n u e t o homogenize. S t i r - c o o l , w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n , t o 40C, t h e n fill.
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , Formulations
I n c . : PHOSPHOLIPID EFA: Suggested
Beauty Aids
93
O/W Cleansing Milk
w
Inqredients: A A r l a t o n e 985 B r i j 721 A r l a m o l HD B
C
4.00 2.00 10.00
A t l a s G-2330 *Preservative Water
3.00 80.90
Perfume *q.s.
0.10
these ingredients.
Procedure: Heat (A) and ( B ) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add (B) t o ( A ) s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e f o r one m i n u t e . A l l o w t o cool t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (C) and w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Package. W/O Cleansing Milk
Ingredients: A r l a c e l 780 A r l a m o l S7 A r l a m o l HD
A
B
C
A r l a s G-2330 MgS04. H20 *Preservative Water Perfume *q.s.
?g!yy 6.00 6.00 10.00 4.00 0.70 73.15 0.15
these ingredients.
Procedure: Heat ( A ) and ( B ) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e f o r one m i n u t e . A1 l o w t o c o o l t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (C) and w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Package.
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
94
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Cleansing Milk
%w/w
Ingredients: A Paraffin o i l perliquidum Arlamol E
2.00 1.25 1.25
B
A r l a t o n e 2121 Propylene g l y c o l Glycerol *Preservative
C
Water Carbomer 934 ( 3 % w / w m a s t e r g e l )
D
*NaOH (10% w / w
E
*Perfume *q.s.
15.00 3.00
72 50 5.00 I
s o l u t i o n ) t o a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 - 7
these ingredients.
Procedure: M i x t h e A r l a t o n e 2121 i n t h e w a t e r phase a t 80C under moderate s t i r r i n g u n t i l a homogenous d i s p e r s i o n i s formed. D i s p e r s e t h e h y d r o c o l l o i d i n t h e h e a t e d w a t e r phase a t 75C w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . Add t h e o i l phase (RT) t o t h e w a t e r phase w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e between 7 5 and 65C. Energy input i s related t o f i n a l formulation viscosity. Allow t o cool t o 40C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Homogenise a g a i n i f a d d i n g a d d i t i o n a l ... i n g r e d i e n t s . e . g . perfume, v i t a m i n s ,
...
Dry Skin Oil with Alcohol
Ingredients: A r l a c e l 186 Arlamol E E t h a n o l , SDA-40, Cyclomethicone
%w/w 30.00 (190 P r o o f )
30.00 30.00 10.00
Procedure: M i x a l l i n g r e d i e n t s w e l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . I f n e c e s s a r y warm t h e A r l a c e l 186 t o a c h i e v e c l a r i t y b e f o r e m i x i n g . Formula C P 1049
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
BeautyAids
95
Petroleum Oil/Petroleum Wax Free Lipstick T h i s l i p s t i c k i s a creamy s t i c k t h a t d o e s n ' t use any p e t r o l eum o i l s o r waxes i n t h e f o r m u l a n o r does i t u s e any s y n t h e t i c raw m a t e r i a l s t h a t has p e t r o l e u m base p r o d u c t s i n i t .
O i l Phase I: 1. K e s t e r Wax 100 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2 . C a n d e l i l l a ( K o s t e r Keunen) 3 . Hydroxy P o l y e s t e r ( K o s t e r Keunen) 4 . H e x a n e d i o l Behenyl Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5. Cocoa B u t t e r 6 . Shea B u t t e r ( K o s t e r Keunen) 7 . Squalane (Centerchem) 8 . R i c e B r a n O i l ( K o s t e r Keunen) 9. O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( I n o l ex) 10.Coconut O i l ( A l n o r ) 11 . V i t a m i n E (BASF) 1 2 . V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) 13.Wheat Germ O i l ( L i p o ) 14.Sweet Almond O i l ( L i p o ) 1 5 . I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) 1 6 . 0 y s t e r N u t O i l ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 7 . C a s t o r O i l (Caschem) 1 8 . E t h o x y l a t e d Carnauba ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 9 . 0 r a n g e Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2 0 . T i 0 2 (WC&D) 21.Z-Cote (Sunsmart) 22. Pigment 2 3 . B e t a G l u c a n 15% Coarse ( K o s t e r Keunen)
6.00 7.00 3.70 4.00 3.00
4.50 1.50 4.00 3.00 5.50 0.10 0.10 1.50 1.50 15.50 1.50 20.00 1.30 5.50 2.50 5.00 2.80 0.50
Procedure: Add 20,21 and 22 t o g e t h e r . To t h e m i x t u r e o f p i g m e n t s add 17, 18, and 19, h e a t t i l l e v e r y t h i n g i s d i s p e r s e d . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t t h e B e t a G l u c a n . The B e t a G l u c a n w i l l be added l a s t t o t h e b a t c h , j u s t b e f o r e p o u r i n g i n t o t h e m o l d s . A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : W i t h t h e i n c r e a s e o r d e c r e a s e of o i l s a n d / o r waxes one c o u l d c r e a t e a s t i c k t h a t i s creamier o r harder.
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
96
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pressed Powder Eye Shadow (Pearlescent Type) InGredients: ( 1 ) B e n t o n i t e ( N F grade) ( 2 ) Mearl i n-AC ( 3 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC ( 4 ) Z i n c S t e a r a t e ( f i n e ground) ( 5 ) Magnesium Carbonate ( 6 ) Acetol ( 7 ) Polysorbate 20 ( 8 ) D e i o n i z e d Water Preservative
"/.by
Weight 5.0
35.0
29.0 8.0 1.o 3.0 9.0 0.0 q.s
Procedure: D r y m i x ( l ) , ( 2 ) , ( 3 ) , (4), and ( 5 ) . I n s e p a r a t e t a n k , t h o r o u g h l y mix ( 6 ) , ( 7 ) , and ( 8 ) . Then s l o w l y add t h i s m i x u r e t o t h e d r y m i x . Screen t h r o u g h a No. 16 s i e v e and p r e s s . F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used. Face Mask naredients: 1 ) D e i o n i z e d Water 2 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF grade) ( 3 ) K a o l i n USP ( 4 ) Isopropyl Alcohol ( 5 ) L a n o l i n (PEG 5 0 ) ( 6 ) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Emerest 2000) ( 7 ) D i m e t h i c o n e ( D o w C o r n i n g 200) ( 8 ) Phenoxyethanol (Emmenessence) ( 9 ) M e t h y l Paraben ( 1 0 ) P r o p y l Paraben
% bv Weight
36.7 8.0 40.0
10.0 0.5
1.5 1.5 1.5 0.2 0.1
Procedure: Add ( 2 ) t o ( 1 ) and h e a t t o SOC, add ( 9 ) and ( 1 0 ) u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add ( 5 ) , ( 6 ) , ( 7 ) , and ( 8 ) . Cool and add ( 4 ) w i t h good m i x i n g u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . Add ( 3 ) and c o n t i n u e h i g h speed mixing u n t i l completely uniform. F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used. Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d be used when h a n d l i n g f 1 ammable i n g r e d i e n t s .
SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
BeautyAids
97
Pressed Powder Eyeshadow
S/oWt.
Phase A : Talc Zinc Stearate Carmi ne Gemtone Mauve Q u a r t z Flamenco Super B l u e Antimicrobial
40.40 4.00 2.00 19.00 12.60 a.s
Phase B : A n t i o x i dant Squal ane Carnation Mineral O i l
q.s. 5.00 7.00
Phase C : Flemenco Super B l u e
10.00
Procedure: T h o r o u g h l y b l e n d and d i s p e r s e A . Add B i n t o a s u p p o r t v e s s e l , h e a t and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Spray B i n t o p r e m i x e d A and c o n t i n u e b l e n d i n g . P u l v e r i z e and r e t u r n t o b l e n d e r . Add C t o A - B and m i x u n t i 1 uniform. Molded Eye Shadow
%Wt. Polytetrafluorethylene-treated m i c a Mica T i t a n : urn-di o x i d e - c o a t e d m i c a Colorant D i m e t h y l p o l y s i 1 oxane Carnation Mineral O i 1 Glyceryl trioctanoate Fragrance Ethanol
50.0 27.0 10.0 3.0 4.0
3.0 3.0 0.1 q * s . 100.0
Cosmetic Aerosol Foam PEG-2 s t e a r y l e t h e r PEG-10 s t e a r y l e t h e r Carnation Mineral O i 1 Isopropyl palmitate Octyldodecanol C e t y l A1 coho1 Water P r o p e l 1ant=N20
4.50% 1.50 7.00 7.00 6.50 0.50 qs t o 100.00
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formulations
98
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pressed Powder with 1% Eldew Ingredient : T a l c Supra A N y l o n 12 L e c i t h i n Treated S e r i c i t e L e c i t h i n Treated Mica L a u r o y l L y s i ne/Ami hope LL Zinc Stearate I s o p r o p y l Lanol a t e H y d r o x y l a t e d Lanol i n Isopropyl Isostearate
% bv Weight
53.54 10.00 10.00 10.00 5.00 3.00 2.70 1.50 1.20
Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl L a u r o y l G l u t a m a t e /
1 .oo 0.60 0.30 0.20 0.10 0.34 0.32 0.18 0.02
Eldew CL-301 Butyl Stearate Germall I 1 Methylparaben Propylparaben Cosmetic Brown 3277 Cosmetic Brown 1985 Cosmetic Brown 1654 D & C Red 30 Lake Pressed Powder with 3% Eldew Inpredi ent: T a l c Supra A N y l o n 12 Leci t h i n Treated S e r i c i t e L e c i t h i n Treated Mica L a u r o y l Lysine/Ami hope LL Zinc Stearate Isopropyl Lanolate H y d r o x y l a t e d Lanol i n Isopropyl Isostearate
% bv Weight
52.49 9.80 9.80 9.80 4.90 2.94 2 65 1.47 1.18 I
Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl L a u r o y l G l u t a m a t e / Eldew CL-301 Butyl Stearate G e r m a l l 11 Methylparaben Propylparaben Cosmetic Brown 3277 Cosmetic Brown 1985 Cosmetic Brown 1654 D & C Red 30 Lake
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA,
2.95 0.59 0.29 0.20 0.10 0.33 0.31 0.18 0.02 I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beaury Aids
99
Prolonged Skin Moisturizer Emulsion Pha* Spermaceti Beeswax Carnation Mineral O i l Behenyl a l c o h o l Preservatives Elastin hydrolysate 1 , 3 b u t y l ene g l y c o l Carboxymethylchitin Water L i posome Phase : Soy l e c i t h i n Sphingoglycolipids Phytosterol G1 y c e r i ne Vitamin A
3.00% 2.00 15.00 5.00 0.30 2 .oo 10.00
0.50 53.20 2.00 1 .oo 0.50 5.00
Skin Lightening Composition
Polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene c e t y l e t h e r Silicone o i l Blandol Mineral O i l Propylene g l y c o l E-Ami nocaproi c a c i d Glycerin Ethyl alcohol Carbomer Hydroxypropyl c e l l u l o s e 2-Aminomethylpropanol Ascorbic a c i d disulfate-sodium s a l t Preservative, antioxidant, fragrance Water
1.00% 2.00 3.00 5.00 1.00 2.00 5.00 0.30 0.10 0.10 1
.oo
q.s. q . s . t o 100.00
Three Layer Facial Moisturizer Sodium p y r r o l i d o n e c a r b o x y l a t e (50%) G1 y c e r i n P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e g l y c e r y l monooleate Carnation M i neral O i 1
10.00% 20.00 20.00
50,OO
SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formulations
100
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Purifying Clay Face Mask T h i s p r o d u c t removes imbedded i m p u r i t i e s w h i c h smoothes s k i n , c l e a n s p o r e s , b r i n g s a g l o w and removes d u l l i n g c e l l s f o r a f i n e r t e x t u r e so s k i n has a r a d i a n t g l o w . Phase A : M a g n a b r i t e S ( W h i t t a k e r & D) Xanthan Gum ( K e l k o ) Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) G l y c e r i n (Unichema) A l o e Vera Gel ( A c t i v e O r g a n i c s ) P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l ( A r c o ) Tween 60 ( G a l l a r d S c h l e s i n g e r ) M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
4.5% 0.2% 63.2% 4.0% 0.5% 1.5% 0.6% 0.5%
Phase 0 : E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF ( K o s t e r Keunen) C e t y l s t e a r y l A l c o h o l (P&G) K e s t e r Wax K-48 ( S p e r m a c e t i , K o s t e r Keunen) P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
5.0% 0.5% 2.0% 0.5%
Phase C: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax: K o s t e r Keunen) Green Chromium O x i d e (Sun C h e m i c a l ) T i tan: urn D i o x i d e (Whi t t a k e r C&D)
4.5% 0.5% 2.0%
Phase D: T i t a n i um D i o x i d e (Whi t t a k e r C&D) Vanclay ( V a n d e r b i l t )
6.0%
4.0%
Procedure: Heat and m i x t i l l homogeneous, Phase A t o 80C. Heat and m i x Phase 6 t o 80C. Heat and m i x Phase C t i l l p i g m e n t s a r e d i s p e r s e d . M i x Phase 6 w i t h Phase C, add BC t o A a t 80C u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . When e m u l s i f i e d , s p r i n k l e a m i x e d Phase D i n t o ABC and c o n t i n u e mixing t i l l thoroughly dispersed, a l l o w t o cool w h i l e mixing. Pour a t 55-60C. A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Changes i n c l a y c o n c e n t r a t i o n will r e d u c e o r i n c r e a s e d r y i n g t i m e on t h e s k i n , w h i c h a l s o changes t h e r e s p e c t i v e p u r i f y i n g q u a l i t i e s t o w a r d t h e s k i n . M o i s t u r i z i n g a g e n t s and or o t h e r a c t i v e s c a n be added t o enhance t h e p r o p e r t i e s o f t h i s p r o d u c t . SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids
101
Slenderizing Cream with Green Tea Extract T h i s s l e n d e r i z i n g cream i n c o r p o r a t e s P h y t ' i o d and I o d o b i o 45. T h i s l i p o l i t i c p r o d u c t d e v e l o p s an e l e c t i v e m e t a b o l i c a c t i o n a t t h e l e v e l o f a d i p o c y t e s t h r o u g h t h e i n h i b i t i o n o f t h e phosphodiesterase. This i n h i b i t i o n blocks t h e degradation o f the c y c l i c AMP w h i c h i s i n d i s p e n s a b l e t o t h e p r o t e i n k i n a s e a c t i v a t i o n . The k i n a s e p r o t e i n s a c t i v a t e t h e l i p a s e w h i c h t r i g g e r a d e g r a d a t i o n o f t h e t r i g l y c e r i d e s i n t h e adipose c e l l i n t h e form of f a t t y a c i d s and g l y c e r o l and t h e n e l m i n a t e d . Ingredients: A . U n i t i n a KD-16 Eumulgin B-1 Lexol I P M Carnation white m i neral o i 1 Tocopherol Trisept P B . D e i o n i z e d Water Trisept M C. I v y Extract Seaweed E x t r a c t O r g a n i c S i 1i c o n D . D e i o n i z e d Water I o d o b i o 45 Green Tea E x t r a c t E. D e i o n i z e d Water Trisept I U F. P h y t ' i o d
% 16.00 1.oo 8.00 6.00 0.01 0.10 48.49 0.20 3.00 2.00 1 .oo 6.00 2.00 1.00
2.00 0.20 3.00
Procedure: Heat phase A and B t o 75-80C. Under p r o p e r a g i t a t i o n , add A t o 8 . A t 50C, add phase C . D i s s o l v e I o d o b i o 45 i n w a t e r . A t 40C, add phase D, E and F. Amidroxy Sugar Cane Cream Ingredients: A . Cirami N 1 Jojoba O i l Sunf 1ower O i 1 Trisept P 8 . D e i o n i z e d Water Trisept M C . Tensami 3/06 D. T o c o p h e r o l E . Amidroxy Sugar Cane F. G r a p e f r u i t E s s e n t i a l O i l
% 11.50 10.00 5.00 0.10 61 - 9 4 0.15 3.00 0.01 8.00 0.30
Procedure: Heat phase A and phase B t o 70C. Add phase A t o phase B w i t h p r o p e r a g i t a t i o n . Add phase C . A t 35C-40C add phase D, phase E and phase F . M i x t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . A d j u s t pH t o 3.50.
SOURCE: T R I - K I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Code AMI Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
102
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Soothing Body Gel A c l e a r , v i scous g e l w i t h m i c r o e n c a p s u l a t e d V i t a m i n E d e s i g n e d t o p r o v i d e s k i n c o n d i t i o n i n g and s o o t h i n g p r o p e r t i e s . I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Weiaht% A M i n e r a l O i l (and) H y d r o g e n a t e d B u t y l e n e / E t h y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer (and) H y d r o g e n a t e d E t h y l e n e / P r o p y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer//Geahlene 750 78.82 B Cyclomethicone/Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d 7.00 C12-15 A1 k y l B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v TN 10.00 0.30 Bisabolol, synthetic 0.50 Methoxypropanediol/Cooling Agent No. 10 0.15 Fragrance 0.03 Menthol Corn O i l (and) R e t i n y l P a l m i t a t e / V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e t y p e PIMO/BH 0.10 0.50 S u n f l o w e r O i l (and) Chamomile E x t r a c t / C h a m o m i l e LS C Macademi a Nut O i 1/ R e f i n e d Macademi a Nut O i 1 2.00 Propylparaben 0.10 D T o c o p h e r o l A c e t a t e (and) A c a c i a (and) G e l a t i n (and) M i c a ( a n d ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (and) I r o n O x i d e s / / M i c r o e n c a p s u l a t e d V i t a m i n E HC487 0.50 Procedure: Premix B. Add B t o A w h i l e m i x i n g a t moderate speed. Heat C t o 60C u n t i l c l e a r . Add C t o A . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous. Add D (pre-washed w i t h a n h y d r o u s e t h a n o l ) and g e n t l y mix i n t o A u n t i l u n i f o r m l y dispersed. SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n Anhydrous Deep Penetrating Gel S i m p l e b u t e f f e c t i v e i s a way t o d e s c r i b e t h i s q u i c k penet r a t i n g p r o d u c t . Use o f t h i s g e l w i l l d i m i n i s h t h e s i g n s o f a g i n g by c o n d i t i o n i n g and t r e a t i n g t h e s k i n w i t h a n t i - i n f l a m m a t o r y a g e n t s . The a c t i v i t y comes f r o m p h y t o s t e r o l s and b i o f l a v o n i d e s i n o r a n g e wax. These c l a s s o f c h e m i c a l s a r e a l s o s t r o n g a n t i - o x i d a n t s w h i c h w i l l scavenge f r e e r a d i c a l s t h e r e b y p r e v e n t ing p o t e n t i a1 p r e m a t u r e a g i n g . 56.0% S i l i c o n e O i l 556 I P P (Unichema) 5.0% Squalane ( P o l y e s t h e r ) 10.0% Cera A l b a l a t e 103 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 14.0% 2.0% Apricot O i l (Arista) Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 10.0% V i t . A P a l m i t a t e (Roche) 0.5% V i t . E (BASF) 0.5% 2.0% C a n d e l i l l a Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Procedure: M e l t and m i x a l l components t o 70C, c o o l t o 60C and p o u r i n t o container. A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e m c e on t h e p r o d u c t : T r i g l y c e r i d e o i l s c a n o n l y be use s p a r i n g l y , s i n c e i n c o r p o r a t i o n a t any s i g n i f i c a n t c o n c e n t r a t i o n w i l l d e s t r o y t h e g e l l i n g (Cera p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e Hydroxy-Hexanyl-Behenyl-Beeswaxate A l b a l a t e 1 0 3 ) . Cera A l b a l a t e 103 i s a h i g h l y e f f e c t i v e g e l l i n g a g e n t f o r v e r y l o w v i s c o s i t y o i l s , as i s i n d i c a t e d above. SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
BeautyAids
103
Stick Type Lip Gloss M a t e r ia1 s : 1 . O z o k e r i t e W h i t e 170 2 . C a n d e l i l l a Wax L i g h t R e f i n e d 3 . Carnauba Wax Y e l l o w USP #1 4 . C e r a p h y l 50 5 . Lanogene 6 . A c e t o l 1706 7. Flexricin 9 8 . Bentone Gel CAO 9 . L e x o l PG 8/10 10.Isopropyl Myristate 11. P r o p y l Paraben 12.Tenox 4 13.Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e * 14.Fragrance *Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e : Castor O i l D&C Red #21 Aluminum Lake Cosmetic Brown C-33 115
% b y Wei q h t
7.5 9.5 2.5 3.0 5.0 11.5 10.0 27.5 12.8 5.0 0.1 0.1 5.0 0.5 75.00 15.00 10.00
Manufacturing Directions: 1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 t h r o u g h 12 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d k e t t l e . Heat t o 85C u n t i l m e l t e d c l e a r . 2 . B r i n g t e m p e r a t u r e down t o 80C. Add and m i x i n i t e m 13 u s i n g homomixer a t medium speed. M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 80C. 3 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t medium speed, l o w e r t e m p e r a t u r e t o 70C, and add i t e m 1 4 . Remove h e a t and s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l c o n g e a l e d , o r pour i n t o t r a y s . 4 . When c a s t i n g , m e l t and p o u r m o l t e n mass i n t o mold a t 75C w i t h slow a g i t a t i o n ( a v o i d a i r entrapment). N o t e : F o r a s h i n y p o l i s h e d s u r f a c e on t h e l i p - g l o s s , t h e s t i c k s s h o u l d be s u r f a c e f l a m e d . Pigment C o n c e n t r a t e P r e p a r a t i o n : 1 . Weigh d r y powder and mix t o t h e c a s t o r o i l u s i n g a s l o w speed Hobart t y p e m i x t u r e u n t i l u n i f o r m . 2 . G i v e t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e two passes o v e r a 3 r o l l e r m i l l a t room temperature.
SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Formula TS-286
104
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Thickening Mascara T h i s i s a l o n g w e a r i n g , n o n - f l a k i n g and t h i c k e n i n g mascara formula. This f o r m u l a t i o n a p p l i e s e f f o r t l e s s l y , separates lashes w e l l and does n o t smear o r c l u m p . The f o r m u l a t i o n does n o t f l a k e d u r i n g wear and has t h e added b e n e f i t o f w a s h i n g o f f e a s i l y w i t h o u t t h e need o f s p e c i a l e y e make-up removers o r h a r s h scrubbing. A.
B.
C.
w
D e i o n i z e d Water Col 1o i d a l Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e (Veegum HV) H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (QP 15,000-H) Xanthan Gum ( K e l t r o l T) Pigment (Pur Oxy Y e l l o w BC and Pur Oxy B l a c k BC) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d M) P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d P)
56.95
PVP/VA Copolymer ( L u v i s k o l 73W) I m i d a z o l id i n y l Urea ( G e r m a l l 115) T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA (Hamp-ene Na4)
10.00 0.20
1.80
2.70 4.45 8.95 0.18 0.09
0.08
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 2.25 Beeswax NF (S&P W h i t e NF 422P) 5.25 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 3.50 G1 y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G1 y c o l / A d i p a t e C r o s s p o l ymer ( L e x o r e z 100) 3.50 S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e NF ( A r l a c e l 6 0 ) 0.10
Procedure: 1 . Combine “A“ e x c e p t f o r t h e p i g m e n t s and h e a t t o 80-85C. When t e m p e r a t u r e i s r e a c h e d , homogenize m i x t u r e s l o w l y a d d i n g pigments. 2 . Combine “C” and h e a t t o 80-85C. S l o w l y add t o ” A “ . 3 . M i x ”AC” f o r f i v e m i n u t e s . Add lrB” t o ”AC” and homogenize f o r f i f t e e n m i n u t e s on medium speed w h i l e c o o l i n g . 4 . A t 60C t r a n s f e r b a t c h t o t a n k e q u i p p e d w i t h a d o u b l e - a c t i o n side-sweep a g i t a t o r . M i x and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . 5. A d j u s t s o l i d s l e v e l t o 53.2%+-0.1%. S o l i d s were r u n i n a 11OC oven f o r one h o u r . SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co, : F o r m u l a t i o n 383-198
Beauty Aids
105
Thigh Slimming Cream
The f o l l o w i n g f o r m u l a i s used f o r d e v e l o p i n g t h i g h s l i m m i n g and a n t i - c e l l u l i t e creams. The f i n a l f o r m u l a t i o n i s 0.50% N a t u r a l Cocoa E x t r a c t and 0.50% C a f f e i n e w h i c h a r e e n c a p s u l a t e d i n u n i l a m e l l a r and m u l t i l a m e l l a r l i p o s o m e s . They a r e f o r m u l a t e d t o t a r g e t subcutaneous f a t t i s s u e . A s i m i l a r f o r m u l a can u t i 1 ize ami n o p h y l ine as t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t . Inaredient: D e i o n i z e d Water Carbopol 940 Glycerin K e l a t e 220 Trisept M Tween 80 Dow C o r n i n g 2501 Dow C o r n i n g 193
%
A.
B.
69.06 0.40 1.50 0.10
0.20 1 .oo 1.50 1 .oo
L a n e t t e 16 Kukui Nut O i l Emersol 132 Butyl Stearate B u t y l a t e d Hydroxy T o l u e n e Emerest 2717 Lexol I P P Dow C o r n i n g 200 ( 5 0 c p s )
1.25 3.50 2.00 0.50 0.10 1.50 1 .oo 1 .oo
C . Triethanolamine D e i o n i z e d Water D.
0.80 5.00
Tristat I U
E . Liposome o f
0.25 6% Cocoa E x t r a c t 8, 6% C a f f e i n e C o n c e n t r a t e 8 . 3 4
Procedure: U s i n g moderate p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n , s p i n k l e Carbopol 940 i n t o Phase A and m i x u n t i l f u l l y h y d r a t e d . Add r e m a i n i n g Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat Phase A and Phase B t o 65C-7OC. W i t h p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n , add Phase B t o Phase A . When u n i f o r m , add Phase C . A t 55C-60C, add Phase D . Add Phase E a t 35C, m i x i n g slowly u n t i 1 uniform.
SOURCE: TRI-K
Industries, Inc.:
Code B i o z o n e
106
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Ultra Rich Hand and Body Nourisher Veegum U l t r a t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l i z e s t h i s creamy, o i l - i n - w a t e r e m u l s i o n p r e p a r e d u s i n g a n o n i o n i c e m u l s i f i e r system. I t features t h e "dry touch" a p p l i c a t i o n p r o p e r t i e s t y p i c a l o f f o r m u l a s c o n t a i n i n g Veegum. Palmi t o y 1 h y d r o l y z e d a n i m a l p r o t e i n f u n c t i o n s as an a n t i - i r r i t a n t t h a t complements t h e g r o u p o f o i l phase e m o l l i e n t s . Veegum U l t r a w h i t e n s and b r i g h t e n s t h i s c o s m e t i c f o r m u l a and a d j u s t s t h e pH t o a p p r o x i m a t e t h a t o f normal s k i n . Inaredient : Veegum U l t r a (Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e ) D e i o n i z e d Water
% bv W t .
3.00
G1 y c e r i n A l o e Vera Gel (2)
2.00
P a l m i t o y l H y d r o l y z e d Animal C e t y l E s t e r s (4) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE ( 5 ) Isopropyl Palmitate Sorbitan Palmitate P o l y s o r b a t e 40 Preservative,
1.50 79.00
Protein (3)
1 .oo 1 .oo 2.50
5.00
2.25 2.75 q.s.
Fragrance
(2) V e r a g e l L i q u i d (3) L i p a c i d e PCO (4) Crodamol SS ( 5 ) Kessco GMS-24SE Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r t o 55C. Add Veegum U l t r a s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g a t 700 rpm w i t h a p r o p e l l e r s t i r r e r . I n c r e a s e m i x e r t o 1500-1700 rpm and m i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g t e m p e r a t u r e a t 55C. Add B t o A and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat C t o 6OC and add t o ( A and 6 ) . M i x ( A , B and C) f o r 30 m i n u t e s . A v o i d a i r e n t r a p m e n t . Slow m i x e r t o 1000 rpm and m i x w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 35C. Add D and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Package. Product C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s : V i s c o s i t y : 1900-2500 cps pH: 5 . 3 + - 0 . 2 Comments: T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o s e r v e as a g u i d e f o r t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co.,
Inc.:
F o r m u l a t i o n No. 447
BeautyAids
107
Vegetable Based Moisturizing Cream Percent
Insredi ents: Part A: Super r e f i n e d almond o i l 'ICrodesta" F10 "Syncrowax" HGLC
20.0 3.0 2.0
P a r t 0: 'I Hy d r o s o y I' 2 0 00 S F ' * C r o d e s t a " F110 So r bo I f 7 0 ltGermaben" 11 " V e r a g e l I' 200 D e i o n i z e d Water
1 .o
3.0 5.0 1.o
0.5 64.5
Procedure: Combine P a r t A . Heat t o 7OCt-2C. Combine P a r t 0 . Heat t o 7OCt-2C. Combine P a r t B t o P a r t A under a g i t a t i o n . Cool and fill off.
SOURCE: D r , Madi s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n Liquifying Cream Makeup Remover
% 51 .E8
Penreco M i n e r a l O i l #9 Petrolatum Alba Rosswax 60-0254 Ross C e r e s i n e Wax 11 60 /7 B e t a C a r o t e n e 30% Fragrance Preservative
32.8 9.1 7.0 0.02 q.s. q.s.
Procedure: M e l t i n g r e d i e n t s one t h r u f o u r i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e t o 170F w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y mixed c o o l , add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s and pack a t a b o u t 130F.
SOURCE:
Frank 0.
Ross Co.,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
108
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Water Resistant Liquid Foundation The r e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a t h i n l o t i o n t h a t f e e l s l i k e a f i n e powder. ?&&
A.
D e i o n i z e d Water C o l l o i d a l Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e (Veegum) Xanthan Gum ( K e l t r o l T ) Methylparaben (Lexgard M) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l NF T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e NF
69.25 1 .oo 0.50 0.20 5.00 QS
B. O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( L e x o l EHS)
8.50 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 3 . 5 0 G1 y c e r i n/Di e t h y l e n e G1 y c o l /Adi p a t e C r o s s p o l ymer 2.00 ( L e x o r e z 100) Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0.05
5 00 5 00
C . T a l c (J-13-AT) I r o n Oxides (AT S e r i e s )
Procedure: 1 . Combine "A" h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. Add a l l i n g r e d i e n t s excep t h e Veegum and x a n t h a n gum. D r y b l e n d t h e gums and s i f t i n . 2. Combine "B" and h e a t t o 80C. 3 . Move " A g 3 t o h o m o g e n i z e r . T u r n t o a l o w speed. 4. Add "B" t o "A", homogenize a t l o w speed f o r 5 m i n u t e s . B e g i n c o o l ing 5 . Add "C" t o lfAB",homogenize a t low speed f o r 10 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l p a r t i c l e s are dispersed. 6. Remove f r o m homogenizer and t r a n s f e r t o p r o p e l l e r m i x e r . 7. A t 45-50C a d j u s t pH t o 7 . 5 - 7 . 7 w i t h TEA. A d j u s t f o r w a t e r l o s s Formula 383-188
.
Lip Gloss The r e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a c a k e l i p g l o s s w h i c h c o u l d be h o t p o u r e d i n t o a pan o r d i r e c t l y i n t o a SAN compact. The l i p g l o s s a p p l i e s e a s i l y . T h i s p r o d u c t i s v e r y wear r e s i s t a n t and e x h i b i t s a h i g h g l o s s due t o L e x o r e z 100. C a s t o r O i l NF ( C r y s t a l 0) Beeswax NF (S&P W h i t e 422P) L a n o l i n Anhydrous C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e x o l GT-865) S t e a r y l S t e a r a t e ( L i p o n a t e SS) G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer ( L e x o r e z 100)
60.90 10.00
1.30 14.80
4.30 8.70
Procedure: 1. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t t o 75C. M i x s l o w l y so t h a t a i r i s n o t e n t r a p p e d . 2 . Pour a t 50C. Formula LP-100 SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Section V
Creams
209
110
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
All Purpose Cream
Wt% (0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n ( # 7 0 ) Squal ane N i k k o l WCB G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( S e l f Emu1 s i f y i n g Type) Cetyl Alcohol Polyoxyethylene (20) G l y c e r y l Monostearate S o r b i t a n Monostearate
10.0
(W) A j i d e w N-50 S o r b i t o 1 (70%) Water P r e s e r v a t iv e
2.0 2.0 61 . O q.s.
4.0 5.0 8.0 4.0 2.7 1.3
Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o ( 0 ) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 5 . 6
All Purpose Cream
Cetyl Alcohol N i k k o l WCB Cetyl Alcohol Tocopherol A c e t a t e A1 1a n t o i n S o r b i t a n Monostearate P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n Monooleate
Wt$b 21.6 8.0 5.0 10.0 4.0 0.2 0.2 2.0 3.0
A j i d e w N-50 Propylene Glycol Water Preservative
3.0 2.0 45.0 q.s.
( 0 ) Liquid Paraffin (#70) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C)
(W)
Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2 . Add ( W ) t o ( 0 ) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 5 . 4 SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams
111
All Purpose Cream
(0) A m i t e r LGOD Squal ane Spermaceti Propylene G l y c o l Monostearate Polyoxyethylene (20) G l y c e r y l Monostearate G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( S e l f Emul s i f y i ng Type) S o r b i t a n Monostearate (W) A j i d e w N-50 S o r b i t o 1 (70%) Sodium Carbonate (10% aq s o l n ) Water Preservative
W B 10.0
9.0 2.0 4.0 3.0 10.0 1.5 3.0 4.0 0.1 53.1 0.3
Procedure: 1 . Heat ( 0 ) and (W) t o 8OC. 2 . Add ( W ) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 5 . 5
Vanishing Cream
Wt% (0) S t e a r i c A c i d L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) Isopropyl Myri s t a t e Hydrogenated L a n o l i n N i k k o l WCB G1 y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( S e l f Emul s i f y i ng Type) Polyoxyethylene (20) Cetyl Ether
8.0 3.0
(W) A j i d e w N-50 Propylene G l ycol Glycerin T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Water Preservative
3.0 3.0 3.0
Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and (W) t o 85-86C. 2 . Add ( W ) to (0) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n 3 . Cool s l o w l y t o 30C w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 7 . 2
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
3.0 2.0 2.0 1.3 1.7
0.5 69.5 q.s.
112
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
All Purpose Dry Skin Cream
%Wt.
Formula: Phase A : G l u c q u a t 100 Dei o n i zed Water
1.0 83.0
Phase B : G1 ucam P-20 D i s t e a r a t e G l u c a t e DO Promulgen D Acet u 1an Cetal Carnation Mineral O i 1 Cetyl Palmitate Perfume and P r e s e r v a t i v e
2.0 0.5 4.5 2.0 1.o 5.0 1.o q.s.
Procedure: D i s s o l v e G l u c q u a t 100 i n t o d e i o n i z e d w a t e r and h e a t t o 80C w i t h adequate a g i t a t i o n . Combine B i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 80C w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x i n g . S l o w l y add A t o B and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . When m a t e r i a l b e g i n s t o t h i c k e n d u r i n g c o o l i n g , change t o s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n . Dry Skin Cream
Wt.96 Water P r o t o p e t 1s Dry F l o S t a r c h S i l i c o n e 344 F i n s o l v TN Cetyl Alcohol Sodium S t e a r y l 2 L a c t a l a t e Propylparaben Methylparaben Carbomer 934 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Fragrance & Color
61 . 3 7 20.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 1-00 1 .oo 0.15 0.10 0.30-0.50 QS t o N e u t r a l i z e QS
SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formul a t i ons
Creams
113
Almond Vanishing Cream with Collagen Phase 1 : Rosswax 63-041 2 Rosswax 573 Amerlate P Emerest 2314 Emerest 2316 G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e SE Almond O i 1- L i p o v o l ALM Phase 2 : Emery 916 P u r e G l y c e r i n e Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Phase 3 : Col l a s o l ( C o l l a g e n ) Phase 4: Germaben I 1
%
5.9 8.9 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.37 1.o 6.0 13.46 0.9 0.37 1.o
Procedure: I n s e p a r a t e steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s h e a t b o t h Phase ( 1 ) and ( 2 ) t o a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 170F w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When t h e t e m p e r a t u r e i s reached, add Phase ( 1 ) t o Phase ( 2 ) w i t h c o n t i n u e d a g i t a t i o n . Next add Phase ( 3 ) and t h e n Phase ( 4 ) b o t h w i t h a g i t a t i o n , c o o l t o 120F and package. Dry Skin Cream P a r t (A) : Modul an Amerchol L-101 Isopropyl Myristate Sodium S t e a r a t e P u r e G l y c e r y l Mono S t e a r a t e SE Ross Spermaceti Wax Sub. 573 Ross J o j o b a O i 1 Part (B): Water Emery 916 G l y c e r i n e Pure Triethanolamine P a r t (C): Preservative P a r t (D) : Fragrance
%
3.7 4.2 2.7 10.0 1.8 5.5 1.8 59.7 9.2 1.4
q.s.
q.s.
Procedure: M e l t P a r t (A) and P a r t ( B ) i n s e p a r a t e v e s s e l s t o 170F u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . When t e m p e r a t u r e i s r e a c h e d , m i x P a r t ( A ) t o P a r t ( B ) and c o o l . Package i n c o n t a i n e r s a t b e l o w 120F.
SOURCE:
Framk 8 . Ross Co.,
Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
114
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a l i g h t cream t h a t c o u l d be d i s p e n s e d f r o m a f l e x i b l e t u b e o r a j a r . The a l p h a h y d r o x y a c i d (AHA) c o n t a i n e d i n t h i s f o r m u l a i s b u f f e r e d l a c t i c a c i d w i t h a use l e v e l o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 10%. A.
D e i o n i z e d Water Methylparaben (Lexgard M) 2,4-Dichlorobenzyl Alcohol G l y c e r i n USP (99.7%) L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%)
( M y a c i d e SP)
*% 65.80 0.20 0.20 3.00 0.60
B . G1 y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) S t e a r a m i d o e t h y l D i e t h y l ami ne
(Lexemul AR) 2.50 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 4 . 0 0 S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l ami n e (Lexami n e S-13) 1.00 C e t y l A l c o h o l (Ado1 52) 1.DO C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e x o l GT-865) 6.00 2.00 I s o b u t y l S t e a r a t e (Lexol BS) 0.10 P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d P) C.
L a c t i c A c i d (88%) Sodium L a c t a t e ( P u r a s a l S/SP 60%)
5.60 8.00
Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A'I h e a t i n g t o 75-8OC. Use p r o p e l l e r m i x e r for agitation. 2 . Combine s e c t i o n " E q t h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. A g i t a t e s l o w l y w i t h a propeller mixer. 3 . When s e c t i o n s " A " & "B" a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g n a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s s l o w l y add l'0" t o " A " . M i x w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n f o r 5 minutes then begin c o o l i n g . 4. Reduce m i x i n g speed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g . 5 . A t 55-60C, add s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t i o n s "AB". 6 . When t h e b a t c h i s homogeneous and a t 35-45C a d j u s t f o r water l o s s . 7 . M i x t o 30C. 8 . A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 3 . 5 0 - 3 . 7 5 w i t h L a c t i c A c i d o r Sodium L a c t a t e , as r e q u i r e d . Physical Properties: V i s c o s i t y : 10,000 cPs @ 24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, TA @ 10 r p m ) . 24 h o u r sample. pH: 3 . 5 @ 24C
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n 398-79-3
Creams
115
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream with 10% Aloe Vera Gel Phase A: Dei o n i zed Water Propylene Glycol Xanthan Gum ( T i c a x a n ) Phenoxyethanol
& % 50.45 4.00 0.50 0.30
Phase B: Squalane NF PPG-12/SMDI ( P o l y o l p r e p o l y m e r - 2 ) Hydrogenated Phosphol ip i d ( L e c i no1 S-1 0 ) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( M i g l y o l 812) Stearic Acid C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c / S t e a r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( S o f t i s a n 378) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e (DC 344 F l u i d ) D i m e t h i c o n e (DC 200 F l u i d ; 50 v i s . ) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 (Cosmowax J ) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 165) S t e a r e t h - 2 ( B r i j 72)
4.00 3.00 1 .oo 5.00 2.50 2.00 4.00 1-00 2.00 1.50 0.50
Phase C: L a c t i c Acid,
7.00
88% ( B i o l a c )
Phase D: T e r r y A l o e Vera G e l , l X , Dec P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) P r o p y l p a r a b e n (Germaben 11)
10.00 1 .DO
1. S l o w l y d i s p e r s e Xanthan gum t o w a t e r w h i l e s t i r r i n g v i g o r o u s l y . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t r a p i d speed u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d and h y d r a t e d . Heat t o 70C. Add P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l f o l l o w e d by P h e n o x y e t h a n o l . 2. Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n Phase B . W h i l e s l o w l y m i x i n g commence h e a t i n g t o 70-75C. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . 3 . S l o w l y i n t r o d u c e Phase B i n t o Phase A . C o n t i n u e t o mix f o r 5-1 0 m i n u t e s 4 . Cool t o 40C w h i l e c o n t i n u i n g t o m i x . W i t h b a t c h a t 35C, add Phase C and c o n t i n u e t o m i x . 5 . Combine a l l Phase D i n g r e d i e n t s , s t i r r i n g u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add t o b a t c h w h i l e m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 25C.
.
SOURCE: T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s ,
Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
116
Cosmetic and Toiletry Forniulations
Aloe Vera Night Cream Percent 49.225 0.075 3.50 0.20
Inaredients: A. D e i o n i z e d Water T e t r a s o d i um EDTA P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Methylparaben B . C e t y l A l c o h o l (Ado1 52 NF) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 (and) PEG-150 S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r e t h - 2 0 ( R i t a c h o l 1000) Polysorbate-40 Sorbitan Palmitate M i n e r a l O i 1 (and) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ( R i t a c h o l ) Mineral O i l A l o e Vera L i p o i d 1 : 1 P e t r o l a t u m ( a n d ) L a n o l i n (and) Sodium PCA ( a n d ) P o l y s o r b a t e 85 ( R i t a d e r m ) D i m e t h i cone 200 BHA Propylparaben
2.00
C . Sodium B o r a t e
0.20
2.00 2.00 0.70 1 .oo 7.00 3.00 3.00 1 .oo 0.10 0.10
20.50 0.15 0.25
D. A l o e V e r a g e l Fragrance Germall I 1
Procedure: Heat Phase A and Phase B s e p a r a t e l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o 75C. Add Phase A t o Phase B and m i x 30 m i n u t e s . Add Phase C and c o o l w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l t e m p e r a t u r e r e a c h e s 50C. Add Phase D and a g i t a t e u n t i l t e m p e r a t u r e r e a c h e s room t e m p e r a t u r e .
Night Cream Inaredients: A . Water Promulgen D T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99 Methylparaben Propylparaben
Percent q.s. 1.o 1.2 0.35 0.1
B. S t e a r i c A c i d Aloe Veragel L i p o i d Glycol Stearate Mineral O i l Magnesi urn S t e a r a t e
8.0 6.0 3.5 10.0 0.5
Procedure: H e a t phases t o BOC. Add phase B t o A . M i x u n t i l 4 0 C . shut o f f a g i t a t i o n .
SOURCE: D r . Madis L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . :
and
Suggested F o r m u l a t ons
Creams
117
Anti -Cellulite Cream A c t i v e s s p e c i f i c a l l y d e v e l o p e d t o r e d u c e t h e s i g n s and q u a n t i t y o f c e l l u l i t e a r e i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h i s q u i c k penet r a t i n g , non-greasy cream. The use o f Cera A l b a l a t e 103 a l l o w s f o r a s t a b l e emulsion using a h i g h c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f low v i s c o s i t y o i l s . Orange Wax i n t h i s f o r m u l a i s a l s o an a c t i v e due t o s i m i l a r c h e m i s t r y . The c l a i m s f o r C e n t e r c h e m ' s a n t i c e l l u l i t e p r o d u c t s a r e based on g r o u p s o f c h e m i c a l s w h i c h a r e a l s o f o u n d i n Orange Wax, f o r example; S t e r o i d s , Flavonones, F l a v o n o l s and Cinnamates. Phase A : Cera A l b a l a t e 103 ( K o s t e r Keunen) G l y c o l S t e a r a t e ( K o s t e r Keunen) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel) Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) S i l i c o n e O i l 556 (Dow) E m u l s i f y i n g Wax N F ( K o s t e r Keunen) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 (Croda) E u c a l y p t u s O i l (Crompton & Knowles) Caprylic/Capric T r i g l y c e r i d e (Bernel) Phase B : Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d ) Carbopol 940 (BF G o o d r i c h ) G l y c e r i n (Unichema) P r o n a l a n A n t i c e l l u l i t e (Centerchem) I v y E x t r a c t (Alban M u l l e r ) Seaweed E x t r a c t (Centerchem) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) A l o e Vera Gel ( A l o e C o r p . ) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )
3.0% 4.0% 3.0% 4.0% 2.0% 2.0% 2.0% 1.5% 0.5% 2.5% 50.1% 0.2% 3.0% 10.0% 5.0% 5.0% 0.2% 1.0% 1 .O%
Procedure: Heat Phase A t o 75 t o 80C. Heat and m i x Phase B t o 75C. E m u l s i f y b y a d d i n g Phase A t o Phase B . Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and mix w h i l e c o o l i n g . Pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r s a t 40C. A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : T h e r e i s room f o r c h a n g i n g t h i s p r o d u c t by t h e use o f o t h e r a c t i v e s w h i c h p r o d u c e s i m i l a r c l a i m s . The use o f o t h e r p l a n t o i l s w i l l n o t d r a m a t i c a l l y a l t e r t h e f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t . Worth m e n t i o n i n g i s t h e a b i l i t y o f Orange Wax t o mask t h e aroma o f t h e eucalyptus o i l producing a product o f low fragrance.
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
118
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Antiwrinkle Daycream Inqredients: % w/w A ) Cremophor A6 2,oo Cremophor A25 2,oo C u t i na GMS 3,OO C e t y l a1 coho1 3,OO L u v i t o l EHO 5,OO Paraffin O i l 5,OO Bisabolol 0,20 S i l i c o n o i l AK 500 0,50 Phenoni p 0,30 P a r s o l 1789 1 ,oo P a r s o l MCX 2,oo B) Water demi n e r a l ized 61,50 E u x y l K-200 0,20 Propy7englycol 4,OO C ) F i t o b r o s i de 5,OO Phytaluronate 5,OO D) F r a g r a n c e / C h i a r a 0/238927 0,30 Procedure: Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r phase 8 ) t o 70C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase B) t o phase A ) , c o o l t o 5 0 C , homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then add phases C ) and D) one a f t e r a n o t h e r and s t i r c o l d . A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 006.8/02.93 Daycream Inqredients: % w/w A ) Tween 60 3,OO A r l a c e l 60 2,oo Cet y 1a 1coho 1 3,OO Stearic Acid 6,OO Isopropylmyristate 10,oo M i g l y c o l 812 5,OO P a r s o l 1789 1 ,oo P a r s o l MCX 2,oo Phenoni p 0,50 8 ) Water demi n e r a l ized 56,QO G1 y c e r i n 4,OO I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea 0,30 Serici n 3,OO Immucell si00 C) F r a g r a n c s / T i m b u k t u O/lB6901 0,30 Procedure; Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f w a t e r phase B ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase 6 ) t o phase A ) , c o o l t o 50C, homogenize and c o o l t o 30C. Then add phase C) and s t i r c o l d . A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 005.E/11.94 SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams
119
Benzoyl Peroxide Cream Materials: Part A: 1 . D . I . Water 2. G l y c e r i n e 3 . Bentone MA r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 4. P r e s e r v a t i v e P a r t B: 1 . G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e , SE 2. Stearyl Alcohol 3. I s o c e t y l Stearate 4. P r e s e r v a t i v e P a r t C: 1. D e i o n i z e d Water 2. Benzoyl P e r o x i d e
% b v Weiaht 71 .OO 3.00 2.00
0.25 3.00 1 .oo 1 .oo 0.10 11.65 7.00
Procedure: 1 . M i x D.I. Water, g l y c e r i n e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Heat t o 60C. 2. Add Bentone MA s l o w l y and m i x w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 80C. 3 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , m i x phase B and h e a t t o 8OC. 4 . Add Phase A t o Phase B and m i x w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 50C. 5 . M i x and homogenize Phase C s e p a r a t e l y and add t o above m i x t u r e o f Phase A and Phase B. 6. Homogenize t h e cream and f i l l t h e c o n t a i n e r . SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n TS-285
Day Cream O/W for Sensitive Skin Component: I. Emulgade PL 1618 Almond O i l C e t i o l 868 Isopropyl Palmitate B a y s i l o n M 350 1 I . G l y c e r i n 86% Water Preservative V i s c o s i t y 23C mPas: 150000
3;O 79.0 q.s.
Preparation i n t h e Laboratory: 1 . Heat o i l phase t o BOC. Heat aqueous phase t o 80C and add t o o i l phase w h i l e s t i r r i n g . E m u l s i f y f o r 5 m i n u t e s a t t h i s temperature. 2 . The e m u l s i o n i s c o o l e d down w h i l e s t i r r i n g ; t h e s t i r r i n g must be s e l e c t e d i n such a way t h a t t h e e m u l s i o n i s k e p t i n continual motion, without developing a so-called " s t i r r i n g c o n e " . E x c e s s i v e s t i r r i n g , i n p a r t i c u l a r b e l o w 50C, c a n lead t o t h e reduction o f t h e f i n a l v i s c o s i t y . 3 . H e a t - s e n s i t i v e a d d i t i v e s a r e added b e l o w 40C. F i n i s h s t i r r i n g a t 30C.
SOURCE: Henkel KOaA: F o r m u l a t i o n No.: 92/216/108
120
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cleansing Cream T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n i s a d u a l p u r p o s e makeup remover and s k i n c o n d i t i o n e r . Myvaplex 6 00P g l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e p r o v i d e s m i l d c l e a n s i n g , e m o l l i e n c e , and e m u l s i o n s t a b i l i t y . Eastman v i t a m i n E6-81, t h e a c e t a t e e s t e r o f v i t a m i n E, o f f e r s i m p r o v e d h e a t and light stability.
%m
Phase A : M y v e r o l 18-06 h y d r o g e n a t e d soy g l y c e r i d e S t e a r i c a c i d , USP/NF P e t r o l a t u m , USP Drakeol 9 mineral o i l Isopropyl myri s t a t e SF 18 ( 3 5 0 ) s i l i c o n e f l u i d ( d i m e t h i c o n e ) Phase 0 : D i s t i 11ed w a t e r P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l , USP T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99%, USP
6.00 4.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 2.00 q.s.
t o 100 5.50
0.70
Phase C : Eastman v i t a m i n E 6-81 ( v i t a m i n E a c e t a t e ) Phase D: Fragrance Preservative
0.30 q.s. q.s.
Procedure: 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t Phase A and Phase B s e p a r a t e l y t o 80C, m i x i n g u n t i l each phase i s u n i f o r m . 2 . Add Phase B t o Phase A w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x i n g . 3 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and s l o w l y c o o l t o 50C. 4 . Add Phase C w i t h m i x i n g and when u n i f o r m add Phase D . 5 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . 6. A d j u s t a g i t a t i o n speed t h r o u g h o u t p r o c e s s as needed. I n v e r s i o n w i l l o c c u r a t 32C, and cream w i l l become smooth and w h i t e . pH: 7.71 SOURCE: Eastman Chemical Co.:
F o r m u l a t i o n X21139-007
Creams
121
Cleansing Cream % bv Wei a h t Inaredients: 31 .O ( 1 D e i o n i z e d Water 2.0 i2j B e n t o n i t e (NF g r a d e ) (3) G l y c e r i n 3.0 (4) S o r b i t o l (70% s o l u t i o n ) 5.0 (5) K a o p o l i t e 1147 20.0 (6) Beeswax 5.0 (7) P e t r o l a t u m 10.0 17.0 (8) Mineral O i l ( l i g h t ) 3.0 ( 9 ) A r l a c e l 186 (10)Tween 80 1 .o ( 1 1 ) S o l u l a n 16 3.0 P r e s e r v a t i v e , Fragrance & C o l o r a n t q.s. Procedure: Add (2) t o ( l ) , m i x a t h i g h speed. Reduce speed and add (3) and ( 4 ) u n t i l smooth. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g , and add (5) s l o w l y u n t i l w e l l d i s p e r s e d . Heat t o 70C. I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , mix ( 6 ) , ( 7 ) , ( 8 ) , (9), and ( 1 0 ) and h e a t t o 70C u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t o w a t e r phase and c o o l t o 30C w i t h c o n t i n u e d m i x i n g . F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used. Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d be used when h a n d l i n g flammable i n g r e d i e n t s .
Mascara Cream
% by Weight Inqredients: ( 1 ) D e i o n i z e d Water 27.8 ( 2 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF g r a d e ) 2.0 (3) Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e ( l o w v i s c o s i t y ) 0.2 5.0 (4) Propylene Glycol (5) S o r b i t o l (70% s o l u t i o n ) 5.0 ( 6 ) S o l u l a n 98 2.5 ( 7 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC 4.0 3.5 ( 8 ) I r o n Oxides ( m i c r o n i z e d ) ( 9 ) D e o d o r i z e d Kerosene 35.0 ( 1 O ) C a n d e l i l l a Wax 5.0 (11)Carnauba Wax (No. 1 y e l l o w ) 7.0 ( 1 2 ) A r l a c e l 186 3.0 Preservative q.s. Procedure: D i s p e r s e (2) i n t o ( 1 ) a t h i g h speed. Add (3) and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l w e l l d i s p e r s e d . Reduce speed and add ( 4 ) , (5), ( 6 1 , ( 7 ) , and ( 8 ) . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g , h e a t t o 70C. I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , m i x ( g ) , ( l o ) , ( 1 1 ) and ( 1 2 ) and h e a t t o 70C u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add t o t h e aqueous phase w h i l e m i x i n g . Cool t o 30C. F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used. Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d be used when h a n d l i n g flammable i n g r e d i e n t s .
SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
122
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cold Cream
Wt% (0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C) Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol H y d r o g e n a t e d Lanol i n N i k k o l WCB S o r b i t a n Monostearate Polyoxyethylene (20) S o r b i t a n Monooleate
20.0 9.0 3.0 1.o 2.0 10.0 2.7 2.3
(W) A j i d e w N-50 Water Preservative
3.0 47.0 q.s.
Procedure: 1 . Heat ( 0 ) and ( W ) t o 80-85C. 2 . Add ( W ) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 7 . 2 Cold Cream
Wt% (0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n ( # 7 0 ) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C) Petrolatum N i k k o l WCB G1 y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e Polyoxyethylene (10) C e t y l Ether A1 umi num M o n o s t e a r a t e
30.0 6.0 7.0 7.0 2.5 2.5 2.0
(W) A j i d e w N-50 Water Preservative
3.0 42.0 q.s.
Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and (W) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g . 3 . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l 35-40C. pH: 5 . 2
SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams
123
Cream
w
Inaredi ents: A Stearyl alcohol B r i j 721s
10.00 4.00
6
Water, d e i o n i z e d Carbopol 934
C
Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W
D
D o w i c i l 200
0.10
E
Fragrance
0.20
F
Ethanol,
5.00
80.50 0.10 aqueous)
SDA-40
0.10
Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C and ( 8 ) t o 75C. Add (6) t o (A) s l o w l y u s i n g b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C). Add ( D ) when t h e t e m p e r a t u r e d r o p s b e l o w 50C. Add (E) b e l o w 40C. Add ( F ) and w a t e r t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . Facial Washing Cream Inaredients: A Mineral o i l Cetyl alcohol A r l a c e l 165 Tween 60
6
Glycerin Water *Preservative
C
*Perfume *Color
%m
25.00 2.00 10.00 1 .oo 6.00 56.00
*q.s. t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s . Procedure: Heat ( A ) inued s t i r r Add (C) and Formula SK-
SOURCE:
t o 65C and ( B ) t o 65C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h c o n t n g u n t i l t h e e m u l s i o n t e m p e r a t u r e d r o p s t o 45C. continue a g i t a t i o n u n t i l cool. 6A
IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : SugQested F o r m u l a t i o n s
124
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Daily Facial Cream with UV Protection (O/W) (Expected SPF 6) %( w / w 1
Innredients: A A r l a c e l 165 Eumulgin B 2 Lanette 0 F i n s o l v TN C e t i o l OE Isopropyl myri s t a t e A b i l 100 Bentone Gel MI0 Neo H e l i o p a n , Type AV C u t i n a CBS
3.00 1.oo 2.00 3.00 5.00 1-00 1 .oo 3.00 1 .oo 2.00
B
Demi n e r a l i zed w a t e r 67.25 0.40 Pemulen TR-2 0.20 Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% aq. s o l u t i o n ) 3.00 G l y c e r i n 86% 0.50 Phenoni p 3.35 Neo H e l i o p a n , Type Hydro; used as a 15% s o l u t i o n n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e ( a c t i v e 0.50%) 3.00 Z i n c O x i d e N e u t r a l H&R
C
Perfume o i l
0.30
M a n u f a c t u r i n g Process: P a r t A: Heat up t o 75C w i t h t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . P a r t B: D i s p e r s e t h e Pemulen i n t h e w a t e r d u r i n g h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . Then add t h e o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s , e x c l u d i n g Z i n c O x i d e n e u t r a l H&R and h e a t up t o 95C. Then add and d i s p e r s e Z i n c O x i d e n e u t r a l H&R. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Part C: A t 30C add t h e p e r f u m e o i l t o P a r t A / B and homogenize t h e emulsion. The p H - v a l u e o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u l s i o n s h o u l d be a p p r o x . 7 . 5 and has t o be c h e c k e d .
SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: F o r m u l a t i o n
K 2/1-21282/E
Creams
125
Day Cream, Oily A.
% 10.0 6.0 6.0 5.0
I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s M i g l y o l 812 M i g l y o l 840 S o f t i s a n 649 D y n a c e r i n 660 Stearic acid Cetyl alcohol
B . Water
3.0 5.0 3.0 t o 100.0
C.
Triethanolamine
D.
Perfume P r e s e r v a t ive
0.90 qs qs
Preparation: A . and 8 . a r e s e p a r a t e l y warmed t o 75 C. C . i s added t o B . 8 . and C . a r e e m u l s i f i e d i n A . Perfume i s i n t r o d u c e d a t a p p r o x .
30C. Moisturizing Cream, Slightly Oily A.
Imwitor Miglyol Miglyol Lanette
% 10.0
940 812 840 N
5.0 3.0 5.0
B. H y g r o p l e x HHG Karion F 1,2-Propylene Water C.
5.0 3.0 3.0
glycol
t o 100.0
Perfume Preservative
Preparation: The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e m i x e d and h e a t e d t o 80-85C. B . i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . C . i s added a t a p p r o x . 30C.
SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
qs qs
126
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Deep Moisturizing Cream T h i s m o i s t u r i z i n g cream u s e s C r o m o i s t CS as a m o i s t u r e a b s o r b i n g , f i l m f o r m i n g p r o t e i n t o r e t a i n m o i s t u r e and b i n d t o t h e s k i n . The e m u l s i o n i s f o r m e d and s t a b i l i z e d by t h e Polawax, Syncrowax, and Super H a r t o l a n c o m b i n a t i o n . The o i l s a r e a b l e n d o f C r o d a l a n LA, Crodamol PMP, Super R e f i n e d Babassu O i l , and P e t r o l a t u m w h i c h p r o v i d e s a non g r e a s y e l e g a n t f e e l and h e l p s t o soften the skin. Inaredients: Part A: Pol awax (Emu1 s i f y i ng Wax NF) Syncrowax A w l - C (C18-36 A c i d ) Syncrowax HGL-C (C18-36 A c i d T r i g l y c e r i d e ) C r o d a l a n LA ( C e t y l A c e t a t e (and) A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n A1 coho1 ) Super R e f i n e d Babassu O i l (Babassu O i l ) Super H a r t o l a n ( L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) Crodamol PMP (PPG-2 M y r i s t y l E t h e r P r o p i o n a t e ) Petrolatum P r o p y l Paraben Part 6: Water, d e i o n i z e d Methyl paraben G1 y c e r i n T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) Part C: C r o m o i s t CS ( C h o n d r o i t i n S u l f a t e (and) H y d r o l y z e d Protein)
2.00 5.50 1 .oo 1 .oo 3.00 1-00 7.00 1.oo 0.20
66.00 0.30 10.00 1 .oo
1-00
Procedure: Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75C. Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t 0 w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h homogenizer m i x i n g and c o o l t o 65C. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g w i t h a sweep b l a d e m i x e r and c o o l t o 40C. Add p a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e . V i s c o s i t y : 4,000,000+-10% ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, S p i n d l e TE, 25C) N . A . T . C . Approved SOURCE: Croda
Inc.:
Formula SC-207
Creams
127
Deep Moisturizing Creme Part A: Water P o t a s s i urn H y d r o x i d e (45%) Monafax 160 Phosphol i p i d SV Germaben 1 1 - E T i t a n i um D i o x i d e
% b y Weight 84.5 0.4 1.0 2.5 0.6 0.5
Part 0 : Cetyl Alcohol Myri sty1 Myri s t a t e Isopropyl Palmitate D i m e t h i c o n e (1OOcs) Lanol i n A l c o h o l
2.0 3.0 4.0 1.o 0.5
Procedure: Heat P a r t A w i t h a g i t a t i i o n t o 60C. S e p a r a t e l y h e a t P a r t B t o 60C. Homogenize P a r t B i n t o P a r t A f o r a s u f f i c i e n t t i m e t o e n s u r e good e m u l s i f i c a t i o n . S t i r c o o l t o 45C, add f r a g r a n c e , and package.
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n Apricot Vanishing Cream Phase ( 1 ) : Rosswax 63-041 2 Rosswax 573 Amerlate P Emerest 2314 Emerest 2316 G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e SE A p r i c o t Kernal O i l Lipovol P
6.64 9.2 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.4 1.3
Phase ( 2 ) : Water Emery 916 P u r e G l y c e r i n e Triethanolamine
72.9 6.2 0.96
3
Phase ( 3 ) : Germaben I 1
1.0
F r a g r a n c e GK-19
9,5.
Procedure: I n s e p a r a t e steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s , h e a t b o t h Phase ( 1 ) and ( 2 ) t o a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 170F w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When t h e temperat u r e i s reached, add Phase ( 1 ) t o Phase ( 2 ) w i t h c o n t i n u e d a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 130F, add Phase ( 3 ) and f r a g r a n c e . C o n t i n u e t o c o o l t o 120F and package. SOURCE: F r a n k 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
128
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Emollient Cream P a r t A: Water Magnabri t e M e t h y l paraben P r o p y l paraben BHA
69.12%
0.50 0.20 0.10
0.08
P a r t B: Carnation M i neral O i 1 Propylene g l y c o l Sorbi to1 Myristy1 propionate Cocoa b u t t e r Cetyl alcohol Stearic acid
4.50 3.50 4.00 3.00 5.00 4.00 4.00
Part C: O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Fragrance Procedure: Heat w a t e r i n t o water. S B ingredients A t 50 degrees cool .
t o 80 degrees i f t Magnabrite and m i x u n t i l C e l s i u s add C
1-00 1-00 q.s.
C e l s i u s . D i s s o l v e parabens and BHA i n t o t h e v o r t e x . When d i s p e r s e d add m e l t e d and u n i f o r m . B e g i n c o o l i n g . i n g r e d i e n t s . Continue mixing u n t i l
Stabilized Urea Moisturizing Cream Urea S t e a r y l a1 coho1 G l y c e r y l monostearate O c t y l dodecanol Carnation Mineral O i 1 Polyoxyethylene s t e a r y l ether Butylparaben Ethylparaben Propylene g l y c o l Sodium PCA Ammoni um c h l o r i de Water
10.00% 10.00 8.00 5.00 6.00
2.50 0.10 0.10
3.00 3.00 1 .oo
9 , s . t o 100.00
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Formulations
Suggested
Creams
129
Emollient Cream for Dry Flaking Skin No.:Phase: 1 A 2 A 3 A 4 A 5 A 6 B 7 B 8 B 9 B 10 B 11 0 12 B 13 B 14 C 15 D
Inaredient : D e i o n i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% Propylene Glycol Xanthan Gum T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA C e t e a r y l A1 c o h o l Laneth-5 G l y c e r y l Monostearate O i l s o f A l o h a Kukui N u t O i l Vitamin E Acetate S t e a r i c A c i d XXX D i m e t h i cone Octyl Palmitate Germaben I 1 Fragrance
% bv W e i a h t 74.65% 1.00% 3.00% 0.30% 0.10% 1 .OO% 1.50% 4.00% 3.00% 0.20% 4.00% 1 .OO% 5.00% 1 .OO% 0.25%
Manufacturing Procedure: Heat Phase A t o 75C. Heat Phase B t o 75C. Add Phase B t o Phase A . Cool t o 40C and add r e m a i n i n g phases. Package.
A o i l i n w a t e r e m u l s i o n where t h e p r i m a r y e m u l s i f i e r s a r e s t e a r i c a c i d w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and L a n e t h - 5 . T h i s i s a f a i r l y inexpensive f o r m u l a t h a t uses two e m o l l i e n t s Kukui and o c t y l p a l m i t a t e . An e x c e l l e n t example o f t h e f e e l o f K u k u i . Facial Cleansing Cream
&Phase: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
8 9 10
A A B B B 0 B B B C
Inaredient: Dei o n i zed Water G1 y c e r i ne Mineral O i l O i l s o f A l o h a Macademia N u t O i l O i l s o f A l o h a Kukui N u t O i l Cetyl Alcohol C12-15 A1 c o h o l s Benzoate A r l a c e l 165 Polysorbate-60 P r e s e r v a t ive
% by Wei caht 54.00% 6.00% 15.00% 5.00% 5.00% 2.00% 2.00% 10.00% 1.00%
QS
Manufacturing Procedure: Phase A : Heat w a t e r and g l y c e r i n phase t o 75C. Phase 0: Heat o i l phase t o 75C. Add t o w a t e r phase. Cool t o 40C. Phase C: Add p r e s e r v a t i v e .
SOURCE: Oils o f Aloha: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
130
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Emollient Cream
% M
Inaredients: A Arlamol E A r 1a s o l v e 200L B r i j 72 Stearyl alcohol
20.00 1.10 7.20 2.00
B
W a t e r , d e i o n i zed C a r b o p o l 934
69.30 0.20
C
Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W
D
*Preservative *Perfume
aqueous)
0.20
* q . s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s . Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 72C and ( B ) t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h good a g i t a t i o n and add ( C ) a t 35C and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add ( D ) . R e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Package. F o r m u l a AE-15 Non-Greasy Emollient Cream
w
Inaredients: A Isopropyl myri s t a t e Stearyl alcohol B r i j 721s B r i j 72
10.00 4.00 5.11 1.89
B
Water, d e i o n i zed C a r b o p o l 934
58.10 0.40
C
Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W
D
*Preservative
E
Fragrance
F
Ethanol
Procedure: Heat ( A ) m o d e r a t e ag ( F ) a t 35C. F o r m u l a SK-
aqueous)
0.40
0.10 SDA-40
20 IO0
t o 70C and ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) b e l o w 50C. Add ( E ) and R e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n and package. 2
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams
131
Emollient Cream Ingredients: A Cetyl alcohol Stearyl alcohol Petrolatum Liquid lanolin fraction B r i j 72 B r i j 700 B Water, d e i o n i zed *Preservative * q . s . these ingredients. Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o agitation.
3.00 2.00 5.00 2.00 3.00 3.00 82.00
(A) w i t h
Emollient Cream Ingredients: B r i j 72 B r i j 721 Arlamol E Stearyl alcohol Cetyl alcohol Stearic acid S i l i c o n e f l u i d ( G E SF 96-20) 6 Propylene g l y c o l * D o w i c i l 200 Water, d e i o n i zed *q.s. these i n g r e d i e n t s .
A
%w/w 3.00 2.00 9.00 0.70 0.30 1 .50 1.oo
4.00 78.50
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add w a t e r l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t io n . Formula PC-9028
Vanishing Cream Innredients: A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g . m . s . Lanol i n C e t y l a1 coho1 Mineral o i l Sorbo, 70% s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n , U . S . P , Water, d e i o n i z e d
%w/w 18.00 2.00 1 .oo 1.00 2.00 76.00
Procedure: Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o 9OC w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
132
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
European O/W Day Cream Ingredients: Isohexadecane Capryl i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e Avocado o i l S u n f l o w e r Seed O i l Tocopherol Acetat e Behenyl a l c o h o l Antioxidant
10.00 4.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 0.05
A r l a t o n e 2121 G1 y c e r o l P a n th e n o l A1 1a n t o i n
5.50 4.00 1.oo 0.20
*Preservative Xanthan gum Water
0.15 67.10
*q.s.
these i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: M e l t A r l a t o n e 2121 and add t o r e m a i n d e r o f ( B ) and (C) m i x t u r e a t 80C. Add h e a t e d ( A ) t o t h e ( B ) and (C) m i x t u r e a t 75C w i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n . Homogenize m i x t u r e a t 65C Cream Inaredients: A Cetyl alcohol B r i j 7215 S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s
w/w
6.00 5.00 0.50
B
Water, d e i o n i z e d
66.30
C
Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 27% d i l u t i o n g r a d e
22 * 2 0
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and ( 8 ) t o 65C. Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h m o d e r a t e ag t a t i o n . Add (C) b e l o w 35C. Rep ace w a t e r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 w i t h i l u t e phosphor c a c i d (10% C . P . ) , Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b e e v o l u t i on o f o x y g e n . F o r m u l a PC-8200
SOURCE:
I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams
133
Exfoliating Cream The u s e o f n a t u r a l e x f o l i a t i n g a g e n t ( e a s i l y d i s p e r s e d ) i n t h i s cream f o r m u l a g i v i n g a m a r v e l o u s , n o n - i r r i t a t i n g , a b r a s i v e q u a l i t y f o r t h e removal o f s p e n t s u r f a c e c e l l s . T h i s w i l l renew and r e v i t a T i z e worn and damaged s k i n , l e a v i n g a b a r r i e r w h i c h c o n t a i n s n a t u r a l a n t i - o x i d a n t s i n h e r e n t i n t h e beeswax and o r a n g e wax. Phase A : Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) NF W h i t e Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Almond O i l ( A r i s t a ) L i g h t Mineral O i l (Witco) G l y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( K o s t e r Keunen) C e t y l s t e a r y l A l c o h o l (P&G) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) Phase 8 : Water ( D i s t i 11 ed) P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l (Dow) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 (Gal l a r d & S c h l e s i n g e r ) Carbopol 940 (BF G o o d r i c h ) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n ) Phase C : M i c r o g r a n u l a t e d Carnauba, 20-60
mesh ( K o s t e r Keunen)
3.5% 1.0%
3.0% 3.5% 4.0% 1.5% 1.0% 3.0%
64 6% 2.5% I
1 .O% 0.2% 0.2% 1.0% 10.0%
Procedure: Add a m i x e d and u n i f o r m Phase A t o a m i x e d and u n i f o r m Phase 0 a t 75C u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add Phase C and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : V i s c o s i t y o f t h i s p r o d u c t can e a s i l y be a l t e r e d b y s u b s t i t u t i n g s t e a r i c a c i d f o r i s o s t e a r i c a c i d , t o accomodate y o u r p r e f e r r e d c o n t a i n e r . F o r s e n s i t i v e s k i n , r e d u c e t h e o r a n g e wax, and r e p l a c e w i t h K e s t e r Wax 62 and C e r e s i n e 130/135. A low v i s c o s i t y w i l l a l l o w t h i s p r o d u c t t o be packaged i n a b o t t l e f i t t e d w i t h a pump and a p r o d u c t w i t h h i g h v i s c o s i t y a l l o w s p a c k a g i n g i n an open j a r . The f o r m u l a t i n g a d v a n t a g e s r e m a i n una l t e r e d b y t h e changes i n v i s c o s i t y .
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
134
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Facial Moisturizing Cream E t h y l h e x y l p-methoxycinnamate Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane E t h y l e n e - a c r y l a t e copolymer Hydroxypropyl g l y c e r y l e t h e r Protopet 1s Petrolatum D i m e t h i cone Steareth-100 G l y c e r y l monostearate Cetyl alcohol Stearic Acid Carbomer 934 Carbomer 941 Methylparaben Propylparaben I m i d a z o l id i n y l u r e a T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA Tyrosine P o t a s s i um h y d r o x i de T i t a n i um d i o x i d e Fragrance Water
4,90% 2.10
0.50 5.00 2.00 0.40 0.70 0.30 1.20 0.52 0.10 0.10 0.20 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.37 0.40 0.15 q . s . t o 100.00
Moisturizing Hand & Body Cream Inaredients: Dei o n i zed Water Carbomer 934 Glycerine P o l y a l d o 10-1-5 Petrolatum Carnation M i neral O i 1 L o n z e s t 143/S A l d o HMS Stearic Acid T r i e t h a n o l ami n e 99% Glydant Plus
%Wt. 82.00 0.50 5.00 1.50 2.00 2.00 2.00 1.50 2.50 1 .oo q.s.
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: S u g g e s t e d Formulations
Creams
135
Facial Night Cream Part A: Dei o n i zed Water Sorbi t o 1 Methylparaben Part B: C14-16 a l c o h o l s b e n z o a t e Lanol i n P r o t o p e t IS P e t r o l a t u m Beeswax P o l y s o r b a t e 80 G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e and PEG 100 s t e a r a t e Stearic acid Triethanolamine Part C: Glycosphingolipids P a r t D: Dimethicone D i azo1 id i n y l u r e a Fragrance Procedure: Begin h e a t i n g w e l l . Add P a r t B Begin c o o l i n g t o smooth. Add r e s t
53.7% 1 .o 0.2 15.0 1 .o 5.0 8.0 4.0 2.0 3.0 0.6 5.0 1 .o 0.3 0.2
w a t e r t o 80 C e l s i u s , add r e s t o f P a r t A . M i x i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . M i x u n t i 1 homogeneous. room t e m p e r a t u r e . S l o w l y add P a r t C; m i x u n t i l o f P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s . Mix w e l l Age Spot Treatment Cream
D i e t h a n o ami ne c e t y l p h o s p h a t e 2.00% E t h y l e n e g l y c o l monostearate 12.00 12.00 Isopropy Palmitate Cetearyl octanoate 2.00 2.50 P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m 3.00 Lanol i n a l c o h o l s 0.10 Propylparaben 0.05 Methylchloroisothiazolinone and m e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e I m i dazol i d i n y l urea 0.10 0.10 Methylparaben 0.20 BHA 0.30 BHT 0.50 Cysteine 0.50 Reduced g l u t a t h i o n e 2.00 Pyrocatechol 0.20 Ascorbyl p a l m i t a t e 0.20 Acetic Acid 1 .oo Octylmethoxy cinnamate 1 .oo Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 0.60 Fragrance Water q . s . t o 100.00
SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. : P e t r o l e u m Speci a1 t i es Group: Suggested Formulations
136
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
General Purpose Cream
Wtl Copolymer 540 P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 Amerchol L-101 Mineral O i l Hexadecyl S t e a r a t e Emerest 2452
1 . A-C 2 . A-C
3. 4. 5. 6. 7. P r o p y l - p - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 8. Methyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 10.00 r a x 11 .Magnesium S u l f a t e 12. Water
2.0 2.0 5.0 10.2 10.0 5.5 0.1 0.2 5.0
0.3 0.3 59.7
Procedure: Weigh 1-7 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 8-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 78C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r and make s u r e t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add perfume, dea e r a t e and package. General Purpose Water/Oil Cream 1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 Beeswax 3. Mineral O i l 4 . A r l a c e l 83 5 . Propyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate 6 . Borax 7. Sorbitol 8 . Methyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate 9 . G e r m a l l 115 10.Water 2.
2.0 4.0 15.0 5.5 0.1 0.3 5.0 0.2 0.3 67.6
Procedure: Weigh 1-4 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . T h i s wax b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r tempe r a t u r e i s used, t h e s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 80-85C. Heat 5-10 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t 1 u n t i l a l l i s d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t approx m a t e l y 48C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s . Some w a t e r may n o t be compl e t e l y ncorporate t a k e n up a t t h i s p o i n t b u t c o n t i n u e d s h e a r i n g w i l l i t a l l . Add perfume, d e - a e r a t e and package. SOURCE: A 1 1 ied S i gnal I n c . : 501 1-1 9-5/5011-20-1
Creams
137
General Purpose O/W Cream
wt"/o 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
Copolymer 540 M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . Dow F l u i d 556 Emerest 2388 Amerchol 400 Solulan 25 A r l a c e l 60 A-C
2.0 5.0 1.o
10.5 2.0 1.o 2.0
8 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 9 . Tween 60 10 C a r b o p o l 940 11 G e r m a l l 115 12 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 1 3 . Water
5.0
1.o 0.75 0.4 0.75
68.6
Procedure: D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l i n w a t e r . Weigh 1-7 and h e a t t o 80-9OC w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , e x c e p t T r i e t h a n o l amine, t o t h e C a r b o p o l / w a t e r d i s p e r s i o n and h e a t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and s h e a r i n homomixer f o r f i v e m i n u t e s . Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o s h e a r w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r a t e and package.
General Purpose o/w Cream
Et% 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
A-C Copolymer 540 M i n e r a l o i 1, 70 v i s . Dow F l u i d 556 Emerest 2388 Hydroxy01 E t h o x y o l 24 A r l a c e l 60
2.0 5.0
1. o 10.5
2.0 1. o 2.0
8 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 9 . Tween 60 1 0 . C a r b o p o l 940 1 1 . G e r m a l l 115 12.Triethanolamine 1 3 . Water
5.0 1. o 0.75 0.4 0.75
68.6
Procedure: D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l i n w a t e r . Weigh 1 - 7 and h e a t t o 80-9OC w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , e x c e p t T r i e t h a n o l amine, t o t h e C a r b o p o l / w a t e r d i s p e r s i o n and h e a t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and s h e a r i n homomixer f o r f i v e m i n u t e s . Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o s h e a r w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e a r a t e and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . :
R e f : 5011-25-2/Ref:
5011-25-2A
138
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
General Purpose O/W Cream
wCopolymer 540 M i n e r a l o i l , 70 v i s Dow F l u i d 556 Isopropyl Myri s t a t e Amerchol 400 S o l u l a n 25 A r l a c e l 60
2.0 5.0 1.o 10.5 2.0 1.o 2.0
1 . A-C
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
8 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 9 . Tween 60 1 0 . Carbopol 940 11 . G e r m a l l 115 12.Triethanolamine 13.Water
5.0
1.o
0.75 0.4
0.75 68.6
Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbopol i n w a t e r . Weigh 1-7 and h e a t t o 80-9OC w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , e x c e p t T r i e t h a n o l amine, t o t h e C a r b o p o l / w a t e r d i s p e r s i o n and h e a t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer f o r f i v e m i n u t e s . Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o shear w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add perfume, d e - a e r a t e and package. General Purpose O/W Cream W B 1.0 1. o
P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 A - C Copolymer 540 M i n e r a l o i 1 , 70 v i s . Dow F l u i d 556 Emerest 2388 Amerchol 400 S o l u l a n 25 A r l a c e l 60
1 . A-C 2.
3. 4. 5.
6. 7. 8.
5.0
1.o
10.5 2.0 1.o 1.3
9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 10.Tween 60 11 . C a r b o p o l 9 4 0 1 2 . G e r m a l l 115 1 3 . T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 14.Water
5.0 1.a 0.75 0.4 0.75 68.5
Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbopol i n w a t e r . Weigh 1-8 and h e a t t o 80-9OC w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , e x c e p t T r i e t h a n o l amine, t o t h e C a r b o p o l / w a t e r d i s p e r s i o n and h e a t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer f o r f i v e m i n u t e s . Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o s h e a r w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add perfume, d e - a e r a t e and package.
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : R e f : 5011-25-2B/Ref:
5011-25-3
Creams
139
General Purpose O/W Cream 1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 2 . A - C Copolymer 540 3 . M i n e r a l o i 1 , 70 v i s . 4 . Dow F l u i d 556 5 . Emerest 2388 6 . Hydroxy01 7 . E t h o x y o l 24 8 . A r l a c e l 60
wts/b 1. o 1.o 5.0 1. o 10.5 2.0 1. o 1.3
9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 10.Tween 60 1 1 . C a r b o p o l 940 1 2 . G e r m a l l 115 13.Triethanolamine 1 4 . Water
5.0 1.8 0.75 0.4 0.75 68.5
Procedure: D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l i n w a t e r . Weigh 1-8 and h e a t t o 80-9OC w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , e x c e p t T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , t o t h e C a r b o p o l / w a t e r d i s p e r s i o n and h e a t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and s h e a r i n homomixer f o r f i v e m i n u t e s . Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o s h e a r w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r a t e and package. General Purpose O/W Cream
Wt%
I . A-C 2. 3. 4. 5.
6. 7.
8.
P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 A-C Copolymer 540 M i n e r a l o i 1 , 70 v i s . Dow F l u i d 556 I s o p r o p y l Myr s t a t e Amerchol 400 S o l u l a n 25 A r l a c e l 60
9 . S o r b i t o l (70% 10.Tween 60 11.Carbopol 1 2 . G e r m a l l 115 13.Triethanolamine 1 4 . Water
1. o 1.o 5.0 1.o 10.5 2.0 1.o 1.3
5.0 1.8 0.75 0.4 0.75 68.5
Procedure: D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l i n w a t e r . Weigh 1-8 and h e a t t o 80-9OC w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , e x c e p t T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , t o t h e C a r b o p o l / w a t e r d i s p e r s i o n and h e a t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and s h e a r i n homomixer f o r f i v e m i n u t e s . Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o s h e a r w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r a t e and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : R e f . 5011-25-3A/5011-25-3B
140
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
General Purpose O/W Cream
wtv
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 Copolymer 540 Mineral O i l (70 s s ) Dow 556 F l u i d P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l D i p e l a r g o n a t e Hydroxy01 E t h o x y o l 24 A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60
A-C A-C
8. 9. 10 P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 11 S o r b i t o l (70%) 12 C a r b o p o l 940 1 3 . G e r m a l l 115
14.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 15. T r ie t h a n o l ami n e 16.Water
1.o 1.o 5.0 1.o 10.5 2.0 1. o 1.3 1.8
0.1 5.0 0.75 0.4 0.2 0.75 68.3
Procedure: D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l i n w a t e r . Weigh 1-10 and h e a t t o 80-9OC w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s t o C a r b o p o l / w a t e r d i s p e r s i o n , e x c e p t t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , and h e a t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e wax phase t o t h e aqueous phase and s h e a r i n homomixer. C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C, t h e n add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , m i x i n g w e l l . Cool t o 30C, add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r a t e and p a c k a g e . R e f : 5011-25-4 Acne Scrub Cream F o r acne s c r u b cream, add 10% A - C P o l y e t h y l e n e SA t o t h i s formulation, a f t e r cooling.
Emollient Cream, Water/Oil 1. 2. 3. 4.
P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A Copolymer 540 L a n o l i n Wax Mineral O i l 5 . 2 E t h y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 6 . A r l a c e l 20 7. Tween 20 8 . P Paraben 9 . M Paraben 1 0 . Water 11 . B o r a x 1 2 . C a r b o p o l 941 A-C A-C
1%
4 10
30 4.5
4.6 1.5 0.1 0.15
43.85 0.15 0.15
Procedure: 1 . Heat 1-5 to 9OC u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . 2 . Add 6, 7 and 8 t o 1 - 5 . H o l d a t 85C. 3 . H e a t 1 0 and 11 t o 90-95C u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d ; add 12 g r a d u a l l y w i t h s h e a r u s i n g t h e G i f f o r d - W o o d Homomixer o r equi v a l e n t . 4. Add 1 - 8 t o m i x e r and s h e a r f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 85-9OC. Shear t o 65C, add p e r f u m e and p a c k a g e . SOURCE: Allied Signal Inc.: Suggested Formulations
Creams
141
General Purpose Cream
WtO/o 1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A 2 . Beeswax 3. L a n o l i n Alcohol 4. Isopropyl Palmitate 5 . 2 - e t h y l Hexyl P a l m i t a t e 6 . Dow 200 F l u i d , 350 c s 7 . T r i g l y c e r a l D i is o s t e a r a t e 8. Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 10.Aloe E x t r a c t 11.Sodium B o r a t e , Anhydrous 12.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
1 3 . G e r m a l l 115 14.Butyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
3.0 2.0 1.o
8.2 10.0 1. o 5.5 0.1 5.0 5.0 0.3 0.2 0.3 0.1 58.3
1 5 . Water Procedure: Weigh 1-8 and and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n can b e much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 9-15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85'2. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 67C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e w h o l e c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r a t e and package. R e f : 5189-4-10A Water-In-Oil Cream
%
1 . A-C 617 2 . M i n e r a l O i 1 (70-75 SS) 3. Isopropyl Palmitate 4 . E s c a l o l 507 5 . Lanogene 6 . S o r b i t a n S e s q u i o l e a t e ( A r l ace1 83) 7 . Sorbo 8 . Borax 9 . Germaben I I E 10. Water 11. Perfume
3.0 15.0 6.0 4.0
5.0 5.0 5.0
0.3 1. o Balance
Q.S.
Procedure: Heat 1 - 6 w i t h m i l d a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l t h e A-C 617 has d i s s o l v e d . M a i n t a i n i t a t 100-11OC. Heat 7-10 w i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n w i t h a c o l l o i d m i l l o r homofixer u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s a t 85C. C o n t i n u e v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n and p o u r i n 1 - 6 . A c r u d e o i l i n - w a t e r e m u l s i o n i s f o r m e d . Cool w i t h c o l d w a t e r b a t h t o a b o u t 55-60C when i t i n v e r t s i n t o a smooth cream. A t 50-55C add p e r f u m e and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
142
Cosmetic and T o i l e v Formulations
General Purpose Water/Oil Cream W t . % 1 . A-C Polyethylene 617 2. A-C Copolymer 540 3. Mineral Oil (70 s s ) 4. 2 Ethyl Hexyl Stearate
5. Lanolin Alcohol ( L 101) 6. Triglycerol Di -i sostearate 7. P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 8 . Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
2.0 2.0 10.2 10.0 5.0 5.5 0.1 0.2 5.0 0.3 59.7
9. Sorbitol (70%) 10.Borax 1 1 .Water Procedure: Weigh 1-5 and heat to 85C with slow agitation. This wax blend has a cloud point o f 79C. Above the cloud point all waxes will eventually dissolve in blend. I f a higher solvating temperature is used, solvation can be much faster. Hold the wax blend at 70-8OC and add 6 and 7 to it with stirring until all has dissolved. Heat 8-11 to 85-9OC and stir gently until all has dissolved. Hold at 70-8OC. Place wax blend i n mixing container, add aqueous phase to it and shear with homomixer or colloid mill. At 53C the crude dispersion inverts and a thick creamy emulsion forms. Continue shearing while scraping the sides of the container to make sure the whole content is properly sheared. Add perfume, de-aerate and package. Ref: 5011-18-6
General Purpose Water/Oil Cream 2.0 1 , A-C Polyethylene 617 2. Beeswax 4.0 3. Mineral Oil 15.0 4 . Arlacel 83 5.5 5. Propyl -P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.1 6. M e t h y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 0.2 7. Sorbitol (70%) 5.0 8. Borax 0.3 9. Water 67.9 Procedure: Weigh 1 - 4 and heat to 85C with slow agitation. The blend has a cloud point of approximately 80C. Above the cloud point all waxes will eventually dissolve in the blend. If a higher solvating temperature is used, solvation can be much faster. Hold the wax blend at 85C. Heat 5-9 to 85-9OC and stir gently until all has dissolved. Hold at 85C. Place wax blend in mixing container, add aqueous phase to it and shear with homomixer or colloid mill. At 50C the crude dispersion inverts and a thick creamy emulsion forms. Continue shearing while scraping the sides of the container to make sure the whole content is properly sheared. Add perfume, de-aerate and package. Ref: 5011-18-5 SOURCE: Allied Signal Inc.: Suggested Formulations
Creams
143
General Purpose W/O Cream
KtA 1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 2.0 2 . Beeswax 3.0 3 . Rewomid S-280 1.o 4 . Amerchol CAB 5.0 5. Mineral O i l 11 . o 6. Isopropyl Isostearate 8.8 7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i is o s t e a r a t e 3.0 8 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 5.0 9 . Borax 0.3 1 0 . G e r m a l l 115 0.2 0.3 11 .Magnesium S u l f a t e 12. Water 60.0 Procedure: Weigh 1 - 7 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 8-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 76C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add perfume, d e - a e r a t e and package . General Purpose W/O Cream y/tv
1 . A - C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 2.0 2 . A-C Copolymer 540 3.0 3 . Rewomid S-280 1.o 4 . Amerchol Cab. 5.0 5. Mineral O i l 11 . o 6. Isopropyl Isostearate 8.8 7. T r i g l y c e r o l D i i s o s t e a r a t e 3.0 8 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 5.0 9 . Borax 0.3 10.Germall 115 0.2 1 1 .Magnesium S u l f a t e 0.3 12. Water 60.0 Procedure: Weigh 1-7 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 8-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 76C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e w h o l e c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add perfume, d e - a e r a t e and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Formula 5011-19-3/5011-19-4
144
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
General Purpose W/O Cream Wt%
2.0 P o l v e t h v l e n e 617 Copblymir 540 2.0 3 . Amerchol L - 1 0 5.0 4 . Mineral O i l 10.0 5 . Dow F l u i d 5 5 6 3.0 5.0 6 . 2 - E t h y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 5.5 7 . A r l a c e l 83 5.0 8 . S o r b i t o l (70% 0.3 9 . Borax 0.5 1 0 . G e r m a l l 115 61 . 7 11 . W a t e r Procedure: Weigh 1-7 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d o o i n t o f a ,o.o r o x i m a t e l v 80C. Above t h e c l o u d o o i n t a l l waxes w i i l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n c a n b e much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 8-11 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 79C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e w h o l e c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r a t e and package. 1 . A-C 2 . A-c
General Purpose W/O Cream Wt%
P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 Beeswax Amerchol 1-101 Mineral O i l 5 . Dow F l u i d 200-350 c p s 6 . 2 - E t h y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i is o s t e a r a t e 8 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 10. Borax 1. 2. 3. 4.
A-C
11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
3.0 2.0 5.0
8.2 1.o 10.0 5.5
0.1 5.0
0.3 0.2 59.7
12.Water Procedure: Weigh 1-8 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n c a n b e much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 9-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 68C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e w h o l e c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r a t e and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : F o r m u l a s R e f . 5011-20-4/5011-22-1
Creams
145
General Purpose W/O Cream P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 Beeswax Amerchol L-101 M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 5 . Dow F l u i d 2 0 0 , 3 5 0 c s . 6 . 2-E th y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i is o s t e a r a t e 8. Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 10.Sodium B o r a t e , Anhydrous
1. 2. 3. 4.
A-C
3.0 2.0 5.0 8.2 1. o 10.0 5.5 0.1 5.0
0.3 11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.2 1 2 . G e r m a l l 115 0.3 1 3 . Water 59.4 Weigh 1-8 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n c a n b e much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 9-13 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 67C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e w h o l e c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r a t e and package. General Purpose W/O Cream W B
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 Copolymer 540 Beeswax Lantrol M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . Isopropyl Stearate 2-Ethyl Hexyl S t e a r a t e 8 . A r l a c e l 83 9 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 1 0 . S o r b i t o 1 (70%) 11 . B o r a x 12.Magnesi um S u l f a t e A-C A-C
13.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
3.5 1.5 2.0 9.5 15.0 10.0 10.0 5.5 0.1
7.0 0.3 0.3 0.2 0.2 34.9
1 4 . G e r m a l l 115 1 5 . Water Weigh 1-9 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . T h i s wax b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, t h e s o l v a t i o n c a n b e much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 80-85C. H e a t 10-15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l i s d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i 1 1 . A t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s . Some w a t e r may not b e c o m p l e t e l y t a k e n up a t t h i s p o i n t b u t c o n t i n u e d s h e a r i n g w i l l i n c o r p o r a t e i t SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : F o r m u l a R e f : 5 0 1 1 - 2 4 - 2 / R e f : 5011-24-4
146
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
General Purpose W/O Cream 1 . A - C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 2. A-C Copolymer 540 3. Beeswax 4. L a n t r o l 5 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 6. Isopropyl Stearate 7 . 2 - E t h y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 8 . A r l a c e l 83 9 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 10. S o r b i t o 1 (70%) 1 1 . Borax 1 2 .Magnesi um S u l f a t e
3.0% 2.0 2.0 9.5 15.0 10.0 10.0 5.5 0.1 7.0 0.3
0.3
0.2 1 4 . G e r m a l l 115 0.2 15. Water 34.9 Weigh 1-9 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 10-15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer or c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 80C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add perfume, d e - a e r a t e and package. General Purpose W/O Cream 1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 2.0% 2 . A-C Copolymer 540 3.0 3. Beeswax 2.0 4 . Lantrol 9.5 5 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 15.0 6. Isopropyl Stearate 10.0 7 . 2 - E t h y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 10.0 5.5 8 . A r l a c e l 83 9. Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.1 1 0 . S o r b i t o 1 (70%) 7.0 11 . B o r a x 0.3 12.Magnesium S u l f a t e 0.3 13.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.2 1 4 . G e r m a l l 115 0.2 15. Water 34.9 Weigh 1-9 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . T h i s wax b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, t h e s o l v a t i o n c a n be much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 80-85C. Heat 10-15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l i s d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s . Some w a t e r may n o t be c o m p l e t e l y t a k e n up a t t h i s p o i n t b u t c o n t i n u e d s h e a r i n g w i l l i n c o r p o r a t e i t a l l . Add perfume, d e - a e r a t e and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : R e f : 5 0 1 1 - 2 4 - 5 / R e f : 5011-24-6
13.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
Creams
147
General Purpose W/O Cream
W S
P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A Beeswax Nimlesterol D M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . Dow F l u i d 200-350 c p s 2-Ethyl Hexyl S t e a r a t e Emerest 2452
1 . A-C
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 1 0 . Borax
3.0 2.0 5.0 8.2 1. o 10.0 5.5 0.1
5.0 0.3 11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.2 1 2 . Water 59.7 Weigh 1-0 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n c a n b e much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 05C. Heat 9-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 68C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e w h o l e c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r a t e and package. Mineral Oil Cream W/O
A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 A-C Copolymer 5 4 0 Beeswax M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 5 . Isopropyl Stearate 6 . 2 -Et h yl Hexyl S t e a r a t e 7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i is o s t e a r a t e
1. 2. 3. 4.
0 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 10.Sodium B o r a t e , Anhydrous
ut3 3.0 1 .o 2.0 25.0 3.0 9.4 3.5 0.2
7.0 0.3
11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.3 0.3 12.Magnesium S u l f a t e 13.Water 45.0 Weigh 1 - 3 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n c a n b e much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 05C. Heat 9-13 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and s h e a r w i t h homomixer or c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 77C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e w h o l e c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r e a t e and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Formula Ref 5011-22-1A/5011-22-4
148
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
General Purpose W/O Cream 1 . A - C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A 2. A - C Copolymer 540 3 . Beeswax 4 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 5 . Dow F l u i d 334 6. Isopropyl Stearate 7 . 2 -E th y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 8 . A r l a c e l 83 9. Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 1 0 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 11 . B o r a x 12 .Magnesi um S u l f a t e
KtB
2.0 3.0 2.0 15.0 9.5 10.0 10.0 5.5
0.1 7.0 0.3
0.3
0.2 1 4 . G e r m a l l 115 0.2 1 5 . Water 34.9 Procedure: Weigh 1-9 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n c a n b e much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 10-15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 80C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e w h o l e c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r a t e and package. R e f : 501 1-31 -2
13.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
Oil-In-Water Cream and Its Scrub Derivative 617 P o l y e t h y l e n e 2.0% 0.5 Stearic Acid Lanogene ( l a n o l i n a l c o h o l & m i n e r a l o i l ) 6.0 Isopropyl palmitate 12.5 S o r b i t a n Monostearate 1.3 P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e 20 S o r b i t a n M o n o s t e a r a t e 1.8 7 . Sorbo ( s o r b i t o l 7 0 % , w a t e r 30%) 5.0 8 . C a r b o p o l 940 1. o 9 . Gerrnaben I 1 0.8 10. Water 68.35 0.75 11 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 12.Perfume Q.S. Procedure: Weigh 1-6, t h e n w e i g h 7 - 1 0 . H e a t 7-10 w i t h a g i t a t i o n u s i n g a homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . When t h e aqueous s o l u t i o n r e a c h e s 85C, h e a t o i l phase t o 90-95C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l t h e wax has d i s s o l v e d . Combine 1-10 and s h e a r u n t i l m i x t u r e i s homogeneous. Add 11 and s h e a r w e l l . Cool t o 55C and add 12. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
A-C
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams
149
General Purpose W/O Hand Cream
Wt% 1 . A-C
3.0
2. 3. 4.
2.0
5.
6. 7.
P o l y e t h y l e n e 61 7A Beeswax Amerchol L-101 Dow 200 F l u i d , 350 c s 2 - E t h y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e Triglycerol D i isostearate Isopropyl Palmitate
8 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 9. Sorbi t o 1 10.Sodium B o r a t e , Anhydrous
11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
5.0
1. o 10.0 5.5 8.2 0.1 5.0 0.3 0.2 0.3 59.4
12.Germall 115 13.Water Procedure: Weigh 1-8 and h e a t t o 85-9OC w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t , a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85-9OC. Heat 9-13 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85-9OC. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 75C, t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add perfume, d e - a e r a t e and package. R e f : 5189-4-10 Oil-In-Water Cream
%
1 . A-C 540 2.0 2 . Dow C o r n i n g S i l i c o n e 3 4 4 3.0 3 . Lanogene 5.0 4 . S o r b i t a n M o n o s t e a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 60) 1.3 5 . P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e 20 S o r b i t a n M o n o s t e a r a t e (Tween 6 0 ) 1 .E 6. Isopropyl Palmitate 7.0 7 . E s c a l o l 507 4.0 5.0 8 . Sorbo ( S o r b i t o l 70%) 9 . Carbopol 941 1.o 10.Germaben I 1 0.8 11 .Water Balance 12 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i ne (TEA) 0.75 Q.S. 13.Perfume Procedure: Weigh 1-7, t h e n w e i g h o u t 8-11. Heat 7-10 w i t h a g i t a t i o n u s i n g a c o l l o i d m i l l o r homomixer. When t h e aqueous s o l u t i o n reaches 856, h e a t 1-6 t o 95C. Combine 1-10 u n t i l w e l l mixed, t h e n add TEA and s h e a r u n t i l a l l appears t o be homogeneous. Cool t o 55C and add perfume and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
150
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Gentle Night Repair Cream T h i s p r o d u c t e n c a p s u l a t e s an a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t w h i c h can d e c r e a s e t h e o x i d a t i o n of a p r e c i o u s compound t h e r e b y i n c r e a s i n g s h e l f l i f e and r e d u c i n g t h e chance o f r a n c i d i t y . The e m u l s i o n i s v e r y s t a b l e , q u i c k l y p e n e t r a t e s t h e s k i n and l e a v e s a s i l k y feel. O i l Phase: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) 7.10% O z o k e r i t e Wax 160/164 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2.20% 7.60% L i g h t Mineral O i l (Witco) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) 3.00% 1.20% G l y c e r i n e M o n o s t e a r a t e (Henkel ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ( L i p o ) 1.00% E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1.00% I n c r o p o l SC-20 ( C r o d a ) 4.00% I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) 4.00% 0.10% V i t a m i n E (Roche) V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) 0.10% 2.00% Safflower O i l (Lipo) Liquapar (Sutton) 0.50% 3.00% Wheat Germ O i l ( L i p o ) Squalane (Centerchem) 2.00% 4.00% Propylene G l y c o l Dioctanate ( I n o l e x ) S i l i c o n e 200/100 (Dow) 2.00% Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d ) 35.8% M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) 0.30% Sodi um B o r a t e ( B o r a x ) 0.60% C a r b o p o l 940 2% 10.00% A c t i v e Phase: Phenoni p ( N i p a ) 0.50% Hyaluronic Acid ( A c t i v e Organics) 1 .OO% F i r m i n g Liposome (Centerchem) 4.00% APT (Centerchem) 3.00% Procedure: Heat t h e components o f t h e o i l phase, m i x and m a i n t a i n a t a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 82C. I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l d i s s o l v e t h e components o f t h e w a t e r phase w h i l e m i x i n g and i n c r e a s i n g t h e t e m p e r a t u r e t o 80C. Add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase u n d e r m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n , and c o o l s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g . When a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 40C i s mixed, add p h e n o n i p . Cool t o 35C and add t h e t h r e e act i v e s . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : You c a n s u b s t i t u t e y o u r p r e f e r r e d s e c o n d a r y e m u l s i f i e r and some o i l s w i t h o n l y s l i g h t changes t o v i s c o s i t y , g l o s s , e t c . The c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f Cera B e l l i n a (CTFA=Pg-3 Beeswax) can o n l y be s l i g h t l y a l t e r e d s i n c e i t h e l p s c o n t r o l c o n s i s t e n c y and t h e m i c e l l e s i z e and shape. The w a t e r s o l u b l e b i o l o g i c a l l y a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s a r e w e l l p r o t e c t e d i n t h i s t y p e o f emulsion a l l o w i n g you t o i n c o r p o r a t e a w i d e r a n g e o f a c t i v e compounds. A f o r m u l a t i o n o f t h i s t y p e i s n o t affected by i o n i c s t r e n g t h .
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Creams
151
Glossy Cream Inaredients: A Stearyl alcohol B r i j 721s
10.00 4.00
B
Water, d e i o n i z e d C a r b o p o l 934
85.50 0.10
C
Sodium h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % W / W
D
D o w i c i l 200
0.10
E
Fragrance
0.20
0-
aqueous)
0.10
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y u s i n g b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) when t h e t e m p e r a t u r e d r o p s b e l o w 50C. Add ( E ) b e l o w 40C. Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
Glossy Cream Inaredients: Isopropyl myristate Stearyl alcohol B r i j 721s B r i j 72
A
d e i o n i zed
%w/w 12.00 4.00 2.80 2.20
78.80
B
Water,
C
D o w i c i l 200
0.10
D
Fragrance
0.10
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C w i t h good p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 50C and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add (D) a t 35C. Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
152
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Glycolic Acid Cream A r i c h cream w i t h t h e b e n e f i t s o f an a l p h a - h y d r o x y a c i d . I n c o r p o r a t i o n o f Geahlene 750 h e l p s m o i s t u r i z e t h e s k i n and gives i t a r i c h , s i l k y a f t e r f e e l .
I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: D e i o n i zed Water Maanesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e / V e e a -u m U l t r a Xanthan Gum/Kel t r o l Methylparaben B u t y l ene G1 y c o l T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA/Hamp-Ene 220 M i n e r a l O i l ( a n d ) Hydrogenated B u t y l e n e / E t h y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated E t h y l e n e / P r o p y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer//Geahlene 750 DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amphisol C12-15 A 1 k y l B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v TN Propylparaben C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 16 S t e a r i c A c i d/Emersol 132
Wei q h t % 61 . O O 1 .oo 0.30 0.20 5.00 0.10
9-00 2.00 5.00 0.10 2.00
4.00
D i azo1 id i n y l Urea/Germall II G l y c o l ic A c i d/G1 y p u r e 70%
0.30 8.00
Dei o n i zed Water Sodi um H y d r o x i d e
1.oo 1.oo
Procedure: D i s p e r s e Veegum i n r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i z e d w a t e r ( p a r t A ) . Add K e l t r o l . Heat t o 80C. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , h e a t p a r t B t o 8OC and m i x u n t i l a l l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . M i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous. Cool t o 50C. Add p a r t C and m i x w e l l . Add p r e m i x e d p a r t D . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 30C. Add f r a g r a n c e a t 30C i f desired.
SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Creams
153
Hand and Body Cream A r i c h , p r o t e c t i v e hand and body cream d e s i g n e d t o r e l i e v e d r y n e s s and l e a v e t h e s k i n s o f t and s i l k y smooth. Geahlene 750 p r o v i d e s l o n g - l a s t i ng moi s t u r i z a t i o n , a p e r c e p t i b l e c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t , and an e l e g a n t a f t e r f e e l .
I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: D e i o n i zed Water Carbomer/CarboDol 940 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Methylparaben Panthenol/DL-Panthenol
Wei u h t % 70.60 0.20
7.00 0.20 0.10
M i n e r a l O i l (and) H y d r o g e n a t e d B u t y l e n e / E t h y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer (and) H y d r o g e n a t e d E t h y l e n e / P r o p y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer//Geahlene 750 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i c a p r r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e / / M y r i t o 1 PC I s o s t e a r y l A l c o h c l / P r i s o r i ne 351 5 Propylparaben C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 16 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e / A r l a c e l 165 P o t a s s i um C e t y l Phosphate/Amphi s o l K Tocopheryl Acetate/Vitamin E Acetate
7.00 5.00 2.00 0.10 2.00 2.50 1.75 0.10
Triethanolamine,
0.15
99%
D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germall I 1
0.20
Soy Lecithin/Sedermasome Fragrance
1.00 0.10
Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n t o r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i zed w a t e r . Add r e m a i n i n g p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat t o 75-80C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m and l u m p - f r e e . Combine p a r t B . Heat t o 80C and m i x u n t i l a l l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A. M i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add p a r t C . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y smooth and homogeneous. Cool t o 50C. Add p a r t D . Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t E . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 30C.
SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
154
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
High Content Mineral Oil Cream Inaredients: A M i n e r a l o i 1, B r i j 721s B r i j 72
w
(Carnation brand)
70.00 3.70 3.30
B
Water, d e i o n i zed
C
Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% aqueous)
0.10
D
D o w i c i l 200
0.10
E
Herbal fragrance
22.60
(SL 79-1224, P W )
0.20
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 65C and ( B ) t o 60C. Add ( A ) t o ( 8 ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate anchor t y p e a g i t a t i o n and add ( C ) . Add ( D ) a t a b o u t 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C and add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o evaporation. Formula PC-9026
O/W P e t r o l a t u m Cream Inqredients : A Petrolatum, white B r i j 721, POE 21 s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 72, POE 2 s t e a r y l e t h e r D i m e t h i c o n e (350 c s . )
%w/w 35.00 1 .oo 4.00
3.00
B
Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 934
C
NaOH, 10% aqueous s o l u t i o n
0.10
D
Germall I 1
0.10
56.70 0.10
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( 8 ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) to ( A ) w i t h moderate anchor s t i r r i n g . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) b e l o w 50C. S t i r t o 35C and add any w a t e r l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Formula CP 1090
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suuuested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Cream
155
Hydrocortisone Cream %w/w InQredients: Phase A : P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 5.0 Glycerin 2.5 Water 10.0 (0.5/1 . O ) H y d r o c o r t i s o n e USP Phase B: Q.S. Water Preservatives Q.S. Phase C : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 M e t h y l g l u c o s e D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care 450) 3.0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 6.0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 5.0 Mineral O i l 5.5 G1 y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g i n M) 1 .B 0.8 S t e a r y l A1 coho1 C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1.o Phase D: Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1 . M i x Phase A t o d i s s o l v e t h e a c t i v e . 2 . Add t h e b a l a n c e o f t h e w a t e r o f Phase B p l u s t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e s . ( A l l o w f o r w a t e r l o s s d u r i n g m a n u f a c t u r i n g ) . Heat A/B t o 70C. 3. Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase C . M i x . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e o f 70C. 4 . B e g i n c o o l i n g when f u l l y d i s p e r s e d . B e g i n h o m o g e n i z a t i o n a t 60C. 5. Homogenize w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 35C 6 . Add f r a g r a n c e w i t h sweep m i x e r .
All Natural Cream (W/O type) InQredients: Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 O l e a t e ( I s o l a n GO 33) 4.0 Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l 1.5 Beeswax 1.5 11.5 O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) C e t e a r y l Octanoate (Tegosoft L i q u i d ) 11.5 Phase B: G1 y c e r i n 2.5 D-panthenol 0.5 Magnesium S u l f a t e 0.5 66.5 Water Phase C: Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1. A d d t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o a m i x t a n k . Heat t o 80-85C and d i s p e r s e t h e waxes. Cool t o 65-70C. 2 . M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B. Heat t o 65-70C. 3 . Add Phase 0 t o Phase A . Homogenize and c o o l t o 40C w i t h m i x i n g 4 . Add t h e f r a g r a n c e . Cool and f i l l . SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical Corp.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
I56
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hydrogen Peroxide Cream Insredients: A S t e a r i c acid, t r i p l e pressed A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60 B Water, d e i o n i zed Phenacetin Disodium e t h y l e n e d i a r n i n e t e t r a - a c e t a t e d i h y d r a t e C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 35% d i l u t i o n g r a d e D P h o s p h o r i c a c i d , 10% C . P . , as r e q u i r e d
w 6.00 2.00 3.00 71.72 0.04 0.10 17.14
Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (8) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C. w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compens a t e f o r l o s t w a t e r due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add ( C ) . A d j u s t pH t o 3.5-4.0 by adding (D). Hydrogen Peroxide Cream Ingredients: A Cetyl alcohol A r l a c e l 40 Tween 40 B W a t e r , d e i o n i zed C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e (10% d i l u t i o n g r a d e ) D P h o s p h o r i c a c i d (10% C . P . ) as r e q u i r e d
w
10.00 2.00 3.00 67.86 17.14
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat (8) t o 72C. Add (8) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C. w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compensate f o r l o s t w a t e r due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add ( C ) . A d j u s t p H t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 b y a d d i n g (D)
.
Hydrogen Peroxide Cream I n q r e d ients: Cetyl alcohol A r l a c e l 165 B Water, d e i o n i zed C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e (10% d i l u t i o n g r a d e ) D P h o s p h o r i c a c i d (10% C . P . ) a5 r e q u i r e d A
%&y 10.00 2.50 70.36 17.14
Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C. w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compensate f o r l o s t w a t e r due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( C ) . A d j u s t pH t o 3.5-4.0 by adding ( D ) . SOURCE:
I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams
Hydroxy Acid Cream (W/O E m u l s i o n )
157
w
Ingredients: Phase A: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5.5 1.o C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) Cyc 1omet h icone 5.0 Isohexadecane 4.0 5.0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosoft OS) 2.5 S t e a r y l H e p t a n o a t e ( T e g o s o f t SH) 0.6 Beeswax Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0.6 Phase 8 : 67.7 Water Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.6 L a c t i c A c i d (44% S o l u t i o n ) 5.0 Sodium S a l i c y l a t e 1.5 Q.S. Preservatives Sodium L a c t a t e (and) Sodium PCA (and) G l y c i n e (and) F r u c t o s e ( a n d ) I n o s i t o l (and) Sodium Benzoate ( a n d ) Lactic Acid ( L a c t i l ) 1 .o Phase C : Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A i n a c l o s e d k e t t l e t o 85C, m i x i n g u n t i l a l l components a r e f u l l y d i s p e r s e d o r s o l u b i l i z e d . When u n i f o r m , c o o l t o 45-5OC. 2 . M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o g e t h e r . Heat t o 40-45C. 3. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h s o f t p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n (150-250 RPM's). M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 5 . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4. Homogenize a t 35-40C. Moisturizing Cream Cold Process
W/O
Inaredients: Phase A: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5.0 5.0 Mineral O i l C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) 5.0 5.0 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e g o s o f t M) Phase 8 : Water 79.2 0.8 Sodium C h l o r i d e Preservatives Q.S. Perfume Q.S. Color Q.S. Procedure: 1 . M i x t h e o i l s o f Phase A t o g e t h e r . M i x w e l l . 2. D i s s o l v e t h e sodium c h l o r i d e i n t h e w a t e r . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 3 . Add Phase 6 s l o w l y i n t o Phase A w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 4 . Homogenize 5 . P r e s e r v a t i v e s , p e r f u m e and c o l o r c a n be added a t any t i m e . SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical Corp.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
158
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Light Texture Hand Creme T h i s h i g h humectant creme p r o v i d e s a n o n - g r e a s y , soothing f e e l .
long l a s t i n g % B Y Weiaht
Part A: Phosphol ip i d SV Steareth-20 G1 y c e r in M e t h y l Paraben Water
3.00 0.45 5.00 0.25 77.75
Part 0 : Steareth-2 Cetearyl Alcohol Myri s t y l Myri s t a t e F i n s o l v TN Isopropyl Palmitate D i m e t h i c o n e ( 1 0 0 cS) P r o p y l Paraben
0.80 3.50 3.50 1.50 3.00 1.oo 0.25
Procedure: Heat b o t h phases t o 65C, and homogenize t h e o i l phase i n t o t h e w a t e r phase. S t i r - c o o l t o 40C and add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r i n g o r p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d . Facial Moisture Creme Th s e l e g a n t f o r m u l a t i o n p r o v i d e s h i g h mo s t u r i z a t ion, e x c e l e n t r u b o f r e s i s t a n c e , and i s i d e a l l y s u i t e d f o r o v e r night skin care. P a r t A: Phosphol ip i d SV Steareth-20 M e t h y l Paraben Water
% B Y Weiaht 3.00 0.20 0.25 81 - 5 0
Part 0 : Steareth-2 Cetearyl Alcohol Myri s t y l Myri s t a t e Isopropyl Myristate D i m e t h i c o n e (1OOcS) Lanolin Alcohol P r o p y l Paraben
1.30 4.00 4.00 4.00 1-00 0.50 0.25
Procedure: Heat b o t h phases t o 65C, and homogenize t h e o i l phase i n t o t h e w a t e r phase. S t i r - c o o l t o 40C and add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r i n g o r p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d .
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : P h o s p h o l i p i d SV: Suggested Formu 1 a t io n s
Creams
159
Mixed Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a v i s c o u s f i r m cream, most a p p r o p r i a t e l y d i s p e n s e d f r o m a j a r . The a l p h a h y d r o x y a c i d s ( A H A ' s ) c o n t a i n e d i n t h i s f o r m u l a c o n s i s t s o f M a l i c , C i t r i c and L a c t i c A c i d s . The t o t a l use l e v e l o f AHA's c o n t a i n e d i n t h e f o r m u l a i s a p p r o x i m a t e l y 8.5%. T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s a c o m b i n a t i o n a n i o n i c (Lexemul AS) and n o n i o n i c (Lexemul 561) e m u l s i o n system. A . D e i o n i z e d Water Methylparaben (Lexgard M ) 2,4-Dichlorobenzyl Alcohol P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l USP
64.70
0.20 (Myacide SP)
0.20 1.00
E . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e 4.00 (Lexemul AS) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 2 . 1 0 3.00 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 1 .oo C e t y l A l c o h o l N F (Ado1 52) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e x o l GT-865) 3.00 O c t v l S t e a r a t e ( L e x o l EHS) 2.00 Avocado O i l 2.00 0.10 Tocopherol (Copherol 1300) 0.10 Butylparaben (Lexgard E) C.
D e i o n i z e d Water Malic Acid (Granular) Sodium C i t r a t e USP-FCC L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%) Sodium L a c t a t e (Purasa
4.50 0.60 S/SP
60%
3.00 0.60 7.90
Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n " A " h e a t i n g t o 75-80C. Use a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r for agitation. 2 . Combine s e c t i o n "B" h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. A g i t a t e s l o w l y w i t h a p r o p e l 1e r m i x e r 3 . When s e c t i o n s "A" & "B" a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g n a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s s l o w l y add " B ' t o " A " t h e n b e g i n c o o l i n g . 4 . Reduce m i x i n g speed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g . 5. A t 55-60C, add s e c t i o n " C " t o s e c t i o n s "AB". 6 . When t h e b a t c h i s homogeneous and a t 35-45C a d j u s t f o r w a t e r 1O S S . 7 . Mix t o 30C. 8. A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 5 . 0 0 - 5 . 5 0 w i t h L a c t i c A c i d o r Sodium Lactate.
.
Procedure: Viscosity:
10,000 cPs @ 24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT TC @ 10 r p m ) . 24 h o u r sample. pH: 4 . 8 @ 24C.
SOURCE:
I n o l e x Chemical C o . :
F o r m u l a t i o n 398-104-5
160
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Multi-functional Day Cream This Bee's M i l k f o r m u l a t i o n creates a b a r r i e r t h a t e f f e c t i v e l y r e p l e n i s h e s m o i s t u r e , s o f t e n s and i m p a r t s r a d i a n c e . T h i s w i l l combat d r y s k i n caused by v a r i a t i o n s i n h u m i d i t y and w i l l h e l p t o minimize the signs o f aging. Water Phase I: Bermocol E 481 ( W h i t t a k e r ) G l y c e r i n e (Unichema) Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) Triethanolamine
0.4% 2.7% 52.1% 0.2%
O i l Phase: N i k k o l L e c i n o l S-10-M ( B a r n e t ) Squal ane ( P o l y e s t h e r ) Macademia N u t O i l ( T r i - K ) Borage O i l ( T r i - K ) V i t a m i n E (BASF) V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) K e s t e r Wax-62 ( K o s t e r Keunen) G l y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( K o s t e r Keun en 1 O z o k e r i t e 158/160 ( K o s t e r Keunen) Cera A l b a l a t e 103 ( K o s t e r Keunen) Phytoglycolipid (Barnet) Liquipar (Sutton) Water Phase 1 1 : B e e ' s M i l k ( K o s t e r Keunen)
2.1% 7.9% 4.3% 2.9% 0.3% 0.3% 1.0%
0.2% 0.3% 0.3% 4.0% 1.0%
20.0%
Procedure: M i x and h e a t w a t e r phase I components t o 75C. Add a l l t h e o i l phase components, h e a t t i l l 75C and m i x . Add s l o w l y t h e w a t e r phase I t o t h e o i l phase u n d e r a g i t a t i o n ( a p p r o x . 700 rpm) m a i n t a i n i n g m i x i n g a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C f o r 5 m i n u t e s (make s u r e t h a t m i x i n g does n o t exceed 800 r p m ' s , a s a phase i n v e r s i o n w i l l o c c u r ) . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 50-55C, add w a t e r phase I 1 a t room t e m p e r a t u r e , u n d e r m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n ( a p p r o x . 200 r p m ' s ) , c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 5 m i n u t e s and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r . A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Sunscreens a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d t o g i v e t h i s p r o d u c t an SPF o f 6-8 by u s i n g E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) a t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 5% and r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f w a t e r and o r o i l s .
SOURCE:
K o s t e r Keunen,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Creams
161
Multi-Purpose Cream
"/ow/w
Ingredients: Mineral o i l , Carnation S t e a r y l a1 coho1 B r i j 721s B r i j 72
15.00 5.00 2.50 2.50
A
B
W a t e r , d e i o n i zed
74.70
C
D o w i c i l 200
0.10
D
Fragrance
0.20
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C w i t h good p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 50C and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add ( D ) a t 35C Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Versatile Cream
w
Inaredients: Cetyl alcoho B r i j 721s
10.00 4.00
B
Water, d e i o n zed C a r b o p o l 934
85.50 0.10
C
Sodium h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % W / W aqueous)
0.10
D
D o w i c i l 200
0.10
E
Fragrance
0.20
A
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and (B) t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y u s i n g b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) when t h e t e m p e r a t u r e d r o p s b e l o w 50C. Add ( E ) b e l o w 40C. Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . SOURCE:
IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
162
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Night Cream (15% Aloe) Percent 67.625 0.2 2.0 0.75
Inaredients: A . Water Methylparaben Promul gen-D T r i e t h a n o l ami ne
10.0 3.0 6.0 6.0 0.05 2.0 2.0
B. Ceraphyl-368 Kessco-653 Emerson-1 323 L i g h t Mineral O i l G l y c e r y l monostearate Propylparaben Vybar-5013 C.
A l o e Veragel L i q u i d Concentrate 1 :40
D.
Fragrance
0.375
Aloe Bath Soap Innredi ents: Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (60%) D i s o d i um L a u r e t h S u l f o s u c c i n a t e Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e D i s o d i um 01 eamido MEA Sul f o s u c c i n a t e Al oe Veragel L i q u i d 1 : 1 C i t r i c Acid Sodium C h l o r i d e Water, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e , F r a g r a n c e
Percent 12.0 7.0 6.0 6.0 5.0 q.s. q.s.
t o pH 6 . 0 t o 1M c p s 9.54. t o 1 0 0 . 0
Procedure: Add components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 40C. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e and p H w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Add dye, p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .
SOURCE:
D r , Madi s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams
163
Oil/Water Cold Cream
Ingredients: A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed Mineral o i l Petrolatum Cetyl alcohol A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60 B
4.00 1 .oo
3.00 1.50 1.oo 0.60 72.90
Glycerin Triethanolamine Water, d e i o n i zed *Preservative *q.s.
10.00 6.00
these ingredients
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72'2. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n . Pour a t s l i g h t l y more t h a n room t e m p e r a t u r e . O/W C o l d Cream (Soap F r e e )
Innredients: A Mineral o i l Bee s w a x Tween 40 A t l a s G-1726,
? 6 w J y
beeswax d e r i v a t i v e
B
Water, d e i o n i zed *Preservative
C
*Perfume *q.s.
50.00 7.00 2.00 8.00
33.00
these i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 75C. Heat ( B ) t o 77C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate b u t t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 45C. S t i r u n t i l room t e m p e r a t u r e and package.
SOURCE:
IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
164
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Oil/Water Moisturizing Cream
@yy
Inaredients: O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA Mineral o i l Stearyl alcohol B r i j 721s B r i j 72 Dimethicone
5.00 5.00 0.50 2.00 2.00 0.50 84.60 0.20
Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 940 Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W
aqueous)
0.20
*Preservative *Fragrance *q.s.
these i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n w a t e r and h e a t ( B ) t o 60C. Heat (A) t o 65C and add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add (C) and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 50C. Add (D) and any w a t e r l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
Oil/Water Moisturizing Cream Inqredients: O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA Benzophenone-3 Mineral o i l Stearyl alcohol B r i j 721s B r i j 72 D i m e t h i cone Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 940 Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W aqueous)
% B 7.00 3.00 5.00 0.50 2.00 2.00 0.50 79.60 0 I20 0.20
*Preservative *Fragrance *q.s.
these ingredients.
Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n w a t e r and h e a t ( B ) t o 60C. Heat ( A ) t o 65C and add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add ( C ) and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 50C. Add (D) and any w a t e r l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams
165
Oil/Water Night Cream
Inaredients: S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed Mineral o i l Cetyl alcohol Beeswax Amerchol H-9 I s o p r o p y l 1a n o l a t e A r l a c e l 165
A
B
T r i e t h a n o l ami ne P r o p y l ene g l y c o l Water
C
*Fragrance *Preservative *q.s.
%w/w 3.00 3.50 3.00 2.50 4.00 1.50 6.00 1.oo 2.50 73,OO
these i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 8OC. Heat ( B ) t o 85C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate b u t t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . Add f r a g r a n c e a t 50C and c o n t i n u e t o s t i r u n t i l room t e m p e r a t u r e . W/O Night Cream
Inqredients: A A r l a c e l 1689 A r l a m o l HD A r l a m o l M812 A r l a m o l DOA Paraffin o i l A e r o s i l R972
B
C
Glycerol MgS04.7H20 *Preservative Water Perfume R o c e l i a 74475 *q.s.
3.50 6.00 2.00 2.00 8.00 0.50 4.00 0.50 73.35 0.15
these ingredients
Procedure: Heat phase ( A ) ( w i t h o u t A e r o s i l R972) t o 75C. S l o w l y add A e r o s i l R972 w h i l e s t i r r i n g . H e a t phase ( B ) t o 75C. S l o w l y add phase (€3) t o phase ( A ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y . A l l o w t o c o o l down w h i l e s t i r r i n g and add phase ( C ) and a l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g .
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
166
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Oil/Water Pigmented Cream
Inaredi ents: A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed Isopropyl myri s t a t e A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60
%w/w 12.00 1-00 2.00 1-00
B
Sorbo Propylene g l y c o l T i t a n i urn d i o x i d e Talc
3.00 12.00 2.00 8.00
C
I r o n oxide Water
1.oo 58.00
D
*Preservative *q.s.
these ingredients.
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 9OC and ( B ) t o 95C. Add (6) and ( C ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n . Add ( D ) . Homogenize i f necessary. O/W All-Purpose Cream
Inaredients: Stearic acid Lanol i n Beeswax Mineral o i l Tween 85 A r l a c e l 85 Sorbo 70% s o r b i t o 1 s o l u t i o n Water *Preservative
% w i -y / 15.00 4.00 2.00 23.00 1.oo 1-00 12.20 41 . 8 0
*Perfume * q . s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 75C. Heat (6) t o 77C. Add (6) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate b u t t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 45C. S t i r u n t i l room t e m p e r a t u r e and package.
SOURCE:
IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams
167
Oil-in-Water-in-Oil Cream
O i 1-in-Water Phase: O i l Phase: Carnation Mineral O i 1 P a r a f f in Cetyl alcohol Polyoxyethylene s o r b i t a n t r i s t e a r a t e D i g l y c e r i n monool e a t e Water Phase: Bentonite Dextrin Palmitate G1 y c e r i n Methylparaben Water Add o i l - i n - w a t e r
15.00% 2.00 3.00 1 .oo
2.00 0.50
1.00 5.00 0.10
29.80 e m u l s i o n t o t h e f o l l o w i n g o i l phase:
Paraffin Cetyl Alcohol Beeswax Sorbitan sesquioleate S o r b i t a n monostearate Butylparaben Bentonite Dextrin palmitate Carnation M i neral O i 1
5.00 3.00 2.00 3.00 1.oo 0.10 0.50 1.00 25.00
Transparent Cleansing Cream D i ( p o l y o x y e t h y 1 e n e l a u r y l e t h e r ) phosphate sodium s a l t G l y c e r y l t r i - 2 - e t h y l hexanoate Carnation Mineral O i 1 Glycerin Water
5.00% 40.00 20.00 30.00 5.00
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formulations
168
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Protective Hand Cream
o/,w/w
Ingredients: A r l a c e l 165 Stearic acid Petrolatum Arlamol HD Arlamol E
6.00 2.00 7.00 10.00 3.00
A
B
4.00
A t l a s G-2330 *Preservative Water
66.35
C
F o m b l i n HC/R
1 .50
D
*Perfume,
0.15
*q.s.
Bouquet Eau de Mer PC 916.315
these i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat phases ( A ) and (6) s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C. Add phase ( A ) s l o w l y o ( 6 ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Add phase ( C ) and homogen se f o r 1 m i n u t e a t 75C. A l l o w t o c o o l w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Homogen se a g a i n a t 40C a f t e r t h e a d d i t i o n o f phase ( D ) . A l l o w t o c o o l down t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g and package. Hand Cream Ingredients: A Arlamol E B r i j 721s B r i j 72 Stearyl alcohol
B
Water
C
*Preservative
D
Fragrance *q.s.
%w/w 8.00 2.40 2.60 4.00 82.80
0.20
these i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( 8 ) t o 75C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y u s i n g b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) when t h e t e m p e r a t u r e d r o p s b e l o w 50C. Add ( E ) below 40C. Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . Formula SK-5
SOURCE:
I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams
169
Modified Oil-in-Water Stearic Acid Cream Ingredients: A Stearic acid, Arlamol E A r l a c e l 165 B
%m 8.00
t r i p l e pressed
2.00 5.00
Sorbo, s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n USP Water *Preservative
*q. s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s
10.00 75 I O 0
.
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h s t i r r i n g . Formula SK-2B Skin Cream Inqredients: A A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g.m.s. Lanol i n C e t y l a1 coho1 Mineral o i l B
w 12.00 1-00 3.00 4.00 1 .oo 79.00
Propylene g l y c o l Water, d e i o n i z e d
Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (B) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add w a t e r l o s t due t o evaporation. Hand Cream Inaredients: A S t e a r i c acid, t r i p l e pressed Isopropyl myri s t a t e o r mineral o i 1 A r l a c e l 165 B
y?y.y 20.00 2.00 5.00 20.00 53.00
Sorbo Water, d e i o n i zed *Preservative *q. s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o (A) r a p i d agitation. S t i r u n t i l set. SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
170
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisturizer O/W Cream
T h i s p r o d u c t u t i l i z e s t h e m i n o r components o f n a t u r a l products t o d e l i v e r m i l d a n t i - m i c r o b i a l a c t i v i t y , which a l l o w s t h e f o r m u l a t o r t o reduce t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f s y n t h e t i c prese r v a t i v e s . The l i g h t y e l l o w c o l o u r e d cream q u i c k l y p e n e t r a t e s t h e s k i n , l e a v i n g a n o n - g r e a s y f e e l and d i m i n i s h e s t h e s i g n s o f a g i ng b y 1a y i ng down a f 1e x i b l e b a r r i e r .
O i l Phase: Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) NF Y e l l o w Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Almond O i l ( A r i s t a ) Mineral O i l (Witco) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel) C e t y l s t e a r y l A l c o h o l (P&G) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (Dow) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 ( G a l l a r d & S c h l e s i n g e r ) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )
4.5%
2.5% 1 .O% 3.0% 3.5% 6.0% 6.0% 2.5% 67.0% 1.5% 1 .O%
0.2% 0.5%
Procedure: Add a m i x e d and u n i f o r m w a t e r phase t o a m i x e d and u n i f o r m o i l phase a t 75C u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g t i l l c o o l . A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : A c t i v e s a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o a p r o d u c t such as t h i s w i t h o u t a l t e r i n g t h e a e s t h e t i c s . Changing t h e t y p e s o f o i l s should o n l y a l t e r t h e v i s c o s i t y , i f maintaining s i m i l a r c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f o i 1s. V i s c o s i t y changes a r e a c h i e v e d b y r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f c e t y l s t e a r y l a l c o h o l and g l y c e r o l m o n o s t e a r a t e , by a p p r o x i m a t e l y 30-40%, however t h i s may cause in s t a b i 1 it y .
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams
171
Moisturizing Cream T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n demonstrates a p o l y m e r i c approach t o o c c l u s i v e m o i s t u r i z a t i o n e l i m i n a t i n g undesirable f e e l prope r t i e s o f petrolatum o r other t r a d i t i o n a l occlusive ingredients. Epolene N-34 wax i s a n o n - e m u l s i f i a b l e p o l y e t h y l e n e w h i c h provides a f i l m t h a t i s r e s i s t a n t t o wash-off. I t i s incorpo r a t e d i n t o t h i s emu1 s i on w i t h Eastman AQ 55 w a t e r - d i s p e r s i b l e p o l y e s t e r w h i c h a l s o c o n t r i b u t e s a p r o t e c t i v e f i l m . The washo f f r e s i s t a n c e i s due t o t h e i n a b i l i t y o f Epolene N-34 t o be e m u l s i f i e d by soap o r s u r f a c t a n t s . The d u a l f i l m - f o r m i n g a c t i o n o f t h i s p o l y m e r c o m b i n a t i o n has been shown t o r e d u c e m o i s t u r e loss. I n v i t r o o c c l u s i v i t y data i s available. Phase A : D i s t i 1l e d w a t e r Propylene g l y c o l ,
m
USP
9 , s . t o 100 4.00
Phase 8 : Polawax e m u l s i f y i n g wax, NF A r l a c e l 165 g l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e and PEG-100 s t e a r a t e M y v e r o l 18-06 d i s t i l l e d m o n o g l y c e r i d e Isopropyl myri s t a t e Robane s q u a l a n e , NF Epolene N-34 p o l y e t h y l e n e wax Phase C: D i s t i l l e d water P r o p y l ene g l y c o l Eastman AQ 555 p o l y m e r Phase D: Eastman v i t a m i n
3.00 3.00 3.00
5.00 5.00 1 .oo
10.00 3.00 1 .oo
E TPGS (20%)
1
Phase E: Fragrance Preservative
.oo q.s.
9,s.
Procedure: 1 . P r e p a r e Phase C by a d d i n g p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l t o w a t e r and h e a t i n g t o 95C and t h e n a d d i n g Eastman AQ 55s w i t h m i x i n g . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 70C. 2 . Heat Phase A w i t h m i x i n g t o 95C. 3 . Heat Phase B w i t h m i x i n g t o 105-llOC. 4 . Cool Phase 8 t o 95C and add t o Phase A w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x i n g . 5 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 70C, a v o i d i n g a i r e n t r a p m e n t . 6. A t 70C, add Phase C. 7. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 5OC; t h e n add Phase D and Phase E . 8 . W i t h m i x i n g , f o r c e c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . P r o d u c t w i l l t h i c k e n and f o r m a cream a t 44C. pH: 5.5
SOURCE: Eastman Chemical Co.:
F o r m u l a t i o n X20491-089
172
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Neck Firming Cream The neck i s t h e most n e g l e c t e d p a r t o f t h e body and shows t h e f i r s t v i s i b l e s i g n s o f a g i n g . The p r o d u c t d e l i v e r s a c t i v e s t o t h a t a r e a i n a c o s t e f f e c t i v e p r o d u c t w h i c h has e m o l l i e n t and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s t h a t f i r m s t i n y l i n e s . C o n t i n u e d use h e l p s promote t h e l o o k o f f i r m , r e s i l i e n t , s o f t , y o u t h f u l looking skin. Phase A : Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) E m u l s i f y i n g Wax N F ( K o s t e r Keunen) Shea B u t t e r ( K o s t e r Keunen) S t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Mineral O i l (Witco) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) G l y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( K o s t e t Keunen) Squalane ( B a r n e t ) Phytoglycol i p i d (Barnet) C e t y l S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (P&G) Phase 0 : Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) Carbopol 940 (BF G o o d r i c h ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) G l y c e r i n (Uni chema) A l o e Vera Gel ( A c t i v e O r g a n i c s ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (Dow) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n ) Phase C : E l a s t o s o l Animal C o l l a g e n & E l a s t i n (Croda)
3.0% 5.0% 3.0% 3.0% 5.0%
5.0% 1.5% 3.0% 2.0% 0.5% 57.9% 0.2% 0.4% 2.0% 0.5%
2.0% 1.0%
5.0%
Procedure: Weigh o u t m a t e r i a l s f o r Phase A, h e a t t o 8OC and mix t i l l homogeneous. Heat Phase B t o 75C. w h i l e m i x i n g . Add Phase A t o Phase 0 under r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C and add Phase C . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g t i l l 35 t o 40C. A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Sunscreens a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o a f o r m u l a o f t h i s t y p e . By r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f w a t e r and o r t h e o i l s , E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) can be s u b s t i t u t e d a t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 5% t o p r o d u c e a SPF o f 6-8.
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Creams
173
Night Cream, Non-Greasy
SS
A . M i g l y o l 812
18.0 6.0 5.0 6.0 1. o 1.o 1. o 1.5
I m w i t o r 900 M i g l y o l 840 I m w i t o r 370 I m w i t o r 375 Cetyl alcohol Fluilan Emulan ODE 50 8 . Glycerol
6.0 t o 100.0
Water C . Perfume
qs qs
P r e s e r v a t ive
Preparation: The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and h e a t e d t o 80-85C. 8 . i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . C . i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t a p p r o x . 30C. O/W Cream, with Bacteriostat A.
S o f t i s a n 601 I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s M i g l y o l 829 S o f t i g e n 701 I m w i t o r 312 S o f t i s a n 649 S i l i c o n o i l 344 f l u i d
8 . Water C.
SS 20.0 8.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 3.0 1.o t o 100.0
Perfume Preservative
Preparation: The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e h e a t e d t o 75-8OC. Those o f B . a r e h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . T h i s i s f o l l o w e d by s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o l d and i n c o r p o r a t i n g t h e p e r f u m e .
SOURCE: Huls America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmetics: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
174
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Protective Face and Body Cream Inaredients: A . Cocoa b u t t e r P e t r o l a t u m and l a n o l i n a l c o h o l (Amerchol CAB) S t e a r i c a c i d XXX Glycol stearate E t h y l d i h y d r o x y p r o p y l PABA (Amerscreen P) M e t h y l g l u c e t h - 2 0 s e s q u i s t e a r a t e (Glucamate SS 2 0 ) Propyl paraben B. A l o e V e r a g e l ( V e r a g e l L i q u i d 1 : l ) Water M e t h y l g l u c e t h - 1 0 ( G l u c o s e E-10) Q u a t e r n i u m - 6 ( M e r q u a t 100) Triethanolamine C . Methyl paraben D i a z o l i d i n y l u r a (Germall 1 1 ) Fragrance Color (Optional)
Percent 5.00 3.00 5.00 8.50 5.00 2.00 0.10 50.00 17.50 1 .oo 1.50 1 .oo 0.10
0.30 q.s. q.s.
Product Characteri a t i c s : N o n - t a c k y cream w i t h good r u b - i n q u a l i t y and n i c e sun p r o t e c t i on. Procedure: Heat phase (A) and ( B ) s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h m i x i n g . L e t c o o l t o a p p r o x i m a t e l y 45-5OC. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e system and f r a g r a n c e . SPF is a p p r o x i mate1 y 8-1 0 . Eye Cream Inaredients: A . Water Carrageenan Gum P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Sorbic Acid Glycamate SSE-20 B. Petrolatum G l y c e r y l Mono-Stearate Soybean O i l Steareth-20 Cetyl Alcohol Stearate-2 Glucate-SS C. A l o e Veragel L i q u i d 1 : l
Percent q.s. 0.1 5.0 0.05 1.5 15.5 4.0 2.0 0.5 0.5
0.2 2.0 5.0
Procedure: H e a t Phases t o 8OC. Add Phase B t o A a t BOC. L e t m i x u n t i l b a t c h i s a t 55C. Add a l o e g e l t o b a t c h s l o w l y . . M i x and c o o l t o b e l o w 40C. SOURCE: D r . M a d i s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams
175
Protective Face and Body Cream Inaredi ents: A . O i l phase Mineral o i l Sweet Almond o i l White Petrolatum Glyceryl stearate W h i t e beeswax Tocopherol ( V i t a m i n E ) 6. Aloe veragel (Veragel L i q u i d ) Magnesi urn alumi num s i 1 ic a t e (Veegum F) D e i o n i zed w a t e r O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA ( E s c a l o l 507) D i a z o l i d i n y l urea (Germall 1 1 ) M e t h y l Paraben F r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e
Percent 13.50 3.00 13.50 5.50 3.50 3.50
2.00
45.00 0.10 10.00 3.00 0.35 0.15 9.s.
Product C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s : T h i s i s a good r u b - i n cream w i t h a SPF 6 ( a p p r o x i m a t e l y ) , a l l o w i n g t a n n i n g w i t h some p r o t e c t i o n . Procedure: Decrease 0 . 1 (%w/w) Veegum i n 10 (%w/w) w a t e r a t b o i l i n g t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h m i x i n g , t h e n l e t c o o l t o a p p r o x i m a t e l y 70C. and add r e s t o f B ( e x c e p t f o r f r a g r a n c e ) and m a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e . H e a t ( A ) t o 70-75C., t h e n add (E) t o ( A ) w i t h m i x i n g . L e t c o o l t o 45C. Then add f r a g r a n c e , l e t c o o l f u r t h e r and package.
Moisturizing Cream Inaredi ents: A . M i n e r a l o i l and l a n o l i n o i l (Amerchol L-101) L a n e t h-5 Isopropyl lanolate S t e a r i c a c i d XXX G l y c e r y l monostearate Mineral o i l 6. Aloe veragel (Veragel L i q u i d 1 : l ) Propylene g l y c o l T r i e t h a n o l ami ne P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l (and) d i a z o l i d i n y l u r e a ( a n d ) m e t h y l p a r a b e n (and) p r o p y l p a r a b e n (Germaben 11)
Percent 1 .oo 1 .oo
1-00
3.00 2-00 8.00 78.00 4.50
0.50 1.00
Procedure: Heat (A) and ( 6 ) s e p a r a t e l y t o 75 d e g r e e s C . M i x ( A ) u n t i 1 u n i f o r m . Add (A) t o ( 6 ) w i t h c o n s t a n t s t i r r i n g and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . SOURCE: D r . M e d i s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t ons
176
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Rejuvenating Cream Inqredients: A ) Cremophor A-6 Cremophor A-25 C u t i n a GMS Lanette-0 Stearic Acid Paraffin o i l C e t i o l SN Vase1 ine w h i t e Abi 1-350 B) Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d I m i d a z o l id i n y l u r e a Phenoni p G l y c e r in Glycolic acid Malic acid Pentavi ti n Immucell C) F r a g r a n c e / C h i a r a 0/238927
% w/w 2,50
2,50 4,00 3,00 1 ,oo 10,00 5,00 3,00 0,40
55 60 0,20 I
0,50
3,00 2,00 1 ,oo 3,00 3,00
0,30
Procedure: Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A ) t o 70C. I n c o r p o r a t e i t e m ' s 11-15 i n w a t e r ( l o ) , a d j u s t t h e pH t o 4 . 5 . Then i n c o r p o r a t e i t e m s 16 + 17. H e a t phase B) t o 7 5 C . Under s t i r r i n g add phase B ) t o phase A), c o o l t o 50C, homogeni z e and c o o l t o 30C. Then add phase C) a n d s t i r c o l d . A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 0 3 2 . 0 / 1 1 . 9 4
W/O Night Repair Cream "cold procedure" Inaredients: 1 A) P i o n i e r KWH-soft 2 B ) Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d 3 G1y c e r in 4 Magnesiumsulfat-7H20 5 Revi t a l in 6 Hyasol 7 Phenoni p 8 E u x y l K-200 9 C ) F r a g r a n c e : 0/232511 B l a c k Dragon I 1
% w/w
30,00 53,70
5100
0,50 5,00 5,00 0,30 0,20
0,30
Procedure: D i s s o l v e i t e m s 3-8 i n w a t e r ( 2 ) . Under v e r y good s t i r r i n g add phase B ) s l o w l y t o phase A ) F i n a l 1y in c o r p o r a t e phase C ) A p p l i c a t i o n No. B 0 0 6 . 0 / 0 4 . 9 3
.
SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . :
Suggested A p p l i c a t i o n s
Creams
177
Silk Protein Skin Cream Wei a h t ,% 1 . Mineral O i 1 10.0 2 . Coco B u t t e r 2.0 3 . C e t e a r v l A l c o h o l & C e t e a r e t h 20 4.0 4 . E m u l s i f y i n g wax N.F. 6.0 1.o 5. S t e a r i c Acid 2.8 6. G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e 2.0 7. G l y c e r i n 2.0 E. Propylene Glycol 0.5 9 . Acetamide MEA 100% 0.2 10.Triethanolamine 11 .Mackpro NSP ( O l e y l / P a l m i t y /Palmi t o l e a m d o p r o p y l / S i l k h y d r o x y p r o p y l Dimonium C h l o r i d e ) 1 2 , M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) qs 13.Fragrance qs 1 4 . D e i o n i z e d Water qs Procedure: 1. M e l t 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9, i n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r t o 75 degrees C. 2 . I n t h e m i x i n g t a n k h e a t t h e w a t e r t o 78 d e g r e e s C . add 10,ll. 3 . S t a r t m i x i n g and add h o t m i x t u r e o f 1 t h r u 9 s l o w l y w i t h good a g i t a t i o n , m i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s t h e n s t a r t c o o l i n g . 4. W h i l e m i x i n g add a t 50 d e g r e e s C . i t e m s 12 t h e n 13 and m i x u n t i l e v e r y t h i n g i s homogeneous. 5. Check pH and a d j u s t i f needed w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e or a c i d s o l u t i o n t o 5.4-6.5. SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : P e r s o n a l Care F orm ul ary
Moisturizing Cream w/Tritosol A b l e n d o f Polawax and I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS p r o v i d e t h i s cream w i t h e x c e l l e n t s t a b i l i t y and m i l d n e s s . The i n c o r p o r a t i o n o f T r i t i s o l a l l o w s t h e s k i n t o r e t a i n m o i s t u r e , and a c t s t o condition the skin. % Ingredients: Part A: 0.00 Polawax ( E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF) I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS ( B e h e n t r i m o n i u m M e t h o s u l f a t e 3.00 (and) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 5.00 M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) Part 8 : 0.00 D e i o n i z e d Water P a r t C: 1 .oo T r i t i s o l ( S o l u b l e Wheat P r o t e i n ) P r o p y l e n e Q l y c o l ( a n d ) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) M e t h y l 1 .oo Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben* Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 70C. Heat P a r t 0 t o 70C. Add P a r t 0 t o P a r t A w i t h good m i x i n g and c o o l t o 45C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d fill temperature. V i s c o s i t y : 11 . O O O + - 1 0 % pH: 5 . 0 + - 0 . 5 *Germaben I 1 N.A.T.C. Approved
SOURCE: Croda, I n c . :
Formula SC-229
178
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Silky-Smooth Lotion/Cream-A Materials: P a r t A: D e i o n i zed Water Rheol a t e 5000 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l P a r t B: Panal ene S i l i c o n e 7207 Promulgen D C e r a p h y l 494 Part C: AMP Part 0: E u x y l K-400 F i n s o l v TN E s c a l o l 507 Approximate V i s c o s i t y , cps:
%&yj 79.66 0.3 0.5 8.0 1.o 1. o 2.0 0.24 0.3 2.0 5.0 15,000
Silky-Smooth Lotion/Cream-B Materials: Part A: D e i o n i z e d Water Rheol a t e 5000 Propylene Glycol P a r t B: S i 1 icone 7207 C e r a p h y l 494 Stearic Acid Cetyl Alcohol Dow 200 F l u i d Part C: Triethanolamine P a r t D: E u x y l K-400 F i n s o l v TN Approximate, V i s c o s i t y ,
% Y J
83.55 0.3 2.5 2.0 1.o 1.75 1 .o
5.0 0.6 0.3 2.0 cps:
45,000
Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : 1. Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A b y s l o w l y s i f t i n g i n t h e p o l y m e r t o t h e w a t e r , m i x i n g f o r 20 m i n u t e s , t h e n a d d i n g t h e p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l . Heat t o 80C. 2 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t B, t h e n h e a t t o 78C. 3 . Add P a r t 6 t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s , t h e n add P a r t C . 4. Cool t o 40C b e f o r e a d d i n g P a r t D . Package a t Room Temperature.
SOURCE: Rheox,
Inc.:
F o r m u l a t i o n s TS-312
Creams
179
Silky-Smooth Lotion/Cream-C %Jy& Materials: Part A: D e i o n i zed Water 78.16 Rheol a t e 5000 0.3 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 2.5 P a r t B: Panal ene 8.0 S i 1 icone 7207 1. o Promulgen D 0.5 2.0 C e r a p h y l 494 Part C: AMP 0.24 Part D: Euxyl K-400 0.3 F i n s o l v TN 2.0 E s c a l o l 507 5.0 A p p r o x i m a t e V i s c o s i t y , c p s : 24,500 Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A b y s l o w l y s i f t i n g i n t h e p o l y m e r t o t h e w a t e r , m i x i n g f o r 20 m i n u t e s , t h e n a d d i n g t h e p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l . Heat t o 80C. 2 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t B, t h e n h e a t t o 78C. 3. Add P a r t 6 t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s , t h e n add P a r t C . 4. Cool t o 40C b e f o r e a d d i n g P a r t D. Package A t Room T e m p e r a t u r e . Formula TS-312 Silky Smooth Cream Base %w/w Inaredient: Part A: D e i o n i z e d Water 83.55 0.3 R h e o l a t e 5000 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 2.5 P a r t B: S i 1 i c o n e 7207 2.0 C e r a p h y l 494 1. o Stearic Acid 1.75 1 .o C e t y l A1 coho1 Dow 200 F l u i d 5.0 P a r t C: Triethanolamine 0.6 P a r t D: Euxyl K-400 0.3 F i n s o l v TN 2.0 Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A b y s l o w l y s i f t i n g i n t h e p o l y m e r t o t h e w a t e r , m i x i n g f o r 20 m i n u t e s , t h e n a d d i n g t h e p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l . Heat t o 80C. 2 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t 8 , t h e n h e a t t o 78C. 3 . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s , t h e n add P a r t C . 4. Cool t o 40C b e f o r e a d d i n g P a r t D. Package a t Room Temperature. Formula TS-331 SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
180
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Cream
Wt% Squalane Beeswax A m i t e r LG-OD C e t y l O c t a n o a t e (Emalex CC-168)* Hydrogenated O i 1 (Emal ex S . T . G - R ) * Behenyl A l c o h o l P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l Monostearate G l y c e r y l Monostearate, S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g (Emalex GMS-7CAE)* D i m e t h y l p o l y s i l o x a n e (300 c . s . ) B u t y l paraben Amihope L L B . CAE G1y c e r i n H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (1% a q . s o l n . ) Methylparaben Water *Nihon E m u l s i o n Co.
A.
Procedure: 1 . Mix ( A ) a t 2 . M i x (B) a t 3 . Add ( A ) t o 4 . M i x them w
4.0 1. o 2.0 3.0 4.0 1.5 1.o 5.0 0.4 0.1 1.o
0.5 5.0 10.0 0.2
58.3
80C. 80C. (6).
t h a homomixer,
and t h e n c o o l s l o w l y t o 30C
N o t e : T h i s sk n cream spreads w e l l . Skin Cream
Wt% L i q u i d Petrolatum Cetanol P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l M o n o s t e a r a t e G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e , S e l f Ernulsi f y i ng (HLB 5 ) (Emalex GMS-45RT; Nihon E m u l s i o n C o . ) POE ( 1 0 ) M o n o s t e a r a t e POE ( 3 0 ) M o n o s t e a r a t e B u t y l Paraben Amihope LL B . 1,3-Butylene Glycol A c y l g l u t a m a t e HS-11 Methylparaben Water
A.
17.0 3.0 1. o 3.0 2.0 1. o 0.1 5.0 5.0 0.3 0.2 62.4
Procedure: 2 . M i x (€3) a t 8 0 C . 1 . M i x (A) a t 80C. 3 . Add (B) t o (A) 4 . M i x them w i t h a homomixer. 5 . Cool them s l o w l y t o 30C. N o t e : T h i s s k i n cream has l o w f r i c t i o n t o u c h a f t e r u s e .
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams
181
Skin Cream with CAE and Amihope
Inqredi e n t s :
W B Phase A : Squal ane 4.0 Beeswax 1. o A m i t e r LG-OD 2.0 C e t y l O c t a n o a t e * (Emalex CC-168) 3.0 Hydrogenated O i l * (Emalex S.T.G.-R) 4.0 Behenyl A l c o h o l 1.5 3.0 Stearic Acid Propylene G l y c o l Monostearate 1.o G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g (Emalex GMS-7 CAE)* 5 . 0 M e t h y l p o l y s i l o x a n e (300 c . s . ) 0.4 B u t y l paraben 0.1 Amihope LL 1. o Phase 8: CAE 0.5 G1 y c e r i n 5.0 10.0 H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (1% Aq. S o l n . ) Methylparaben 0.2 Water 58.3 M a n u f a c t u r i n g Procedure: M i x Phase A and h e a t t o 80C. M i x Phase B and h e a t t o 8OC. Add Phase A t o Phase B and homogenize. Cool s l o w l y t o 30C. * N i hon Emu1s i on Co. , L t d . , Japan Formula No. LC-7 Cleansing Cream
Wt%
( 0 ) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) Petrolatum Beeswax L a n o l in A1 coho1 Polyoxyethylene (5) Glyceryl I s o s t e a r a t e Polyoxyethylene (5) Stearyl Ether Polyethylene Glycol (500) D i s t e a r a t e S o r b i t a n Mono1a u r a t e S o r b i t a n Monool e a t e A1 umi num M o n o s t e a r a t e (W) A j i d e w N-50 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Water Preservative Procedure: 1 Suspend a1 umi num m o n o s t e a r a t e t o 1 iq u i d p a r a f f i n 2 . Add o t h e r (0) i n g r e d i e n t s t o t h e s u s p e n s i o n . 3 . Heat (0) t o 95C t o d i s s o l v e . 4 . Heat ( W ) t o 85C. 5 . Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g . 6 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 5 . 1
.
SOURCE: A j i n o r n o t o USA,
Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
21 . o 5.0 10.0 1.7 4.0 2.5 1.6 0.2 0.4 2.0 3.0 3.0 45.6 q.s.
182
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Care Cream T h i s p r o d u c t i m p a r t s good s k i n f e e l and has a h i g h q u a l i t y appearance, t h o u g h t h e p r o d u c t i o n i s c o s t e f f e c t i v e . There a r e a l s o b a r r i e r and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s w h i c h a r e h i g h l y e f f e c t i v e h y d r a t i o n system f o r a l l s k i n t y p e s . The f o r m u l a a l s o w i l l h e l p reduce transepidermal water l o s s .
O i l Phase:
N F W h i t e Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen)
4.50% 2.50%
I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) L i g h t Mineral O i l (Witco) Propylene Glycol Dioctanate ( I n o l e x ) S t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Coconut O i l (CocoChem) P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
5.00% 1.50% 0.50% 1.25% 0.20%
C e t y l s t e a r y l A1 coho1 1618 (P&G)
Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) G l y c e r i n e (UniChema) C a r b o x y m e t h y l C e l l u l o s e (CMC, H e r c u l e s ) C a r b o p o l 940 (BF G o o d r i c h ) Sodi um B o r a t e ( B o r a x ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
3.00%
74.25% 5.50%
0 30% 0.60% I
0.40% 0 30% I
0.20%
Procedure: Add t o t h e w a t e r phase u n d e r a g i t a t i o n , i n o r d e r ; CMC u n t i l e v e r y t h i n g i s d i s s o l v e d t h e n m e t h y l p a r a b e n w h i l e m i x i n g . Then add c a r b o p o l , m i x t i l l homogeneous m a k i n g s u r e t h e r e a r e no a g g l o m e r a t i o n s . Add t h e r e m a i n d e r o f t h e w a t e r phase components, m i x and h e a t t o 75C. Add a l l t h e o i l phase components, h e a t t i l l 75C and m i x . Add s l o w l y t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase u n d e r a g i t a t i o n m a i n t a i n i n g a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C. When t h e o i l phase i s added, c o o l and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r . A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : By r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f m i n e r a l o i l b y 2.0%, p r o p y l ene g l y c o l d i o c t a n a t e by 0.5% and t h e a d d i t i o n o f 2.5% E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) t h e cream w i l l t a k e on an SPF o f 6-8. The p r o d u c t has t h e same appearance, s k i n f e e l and s t a b i l i t y . F r a g r a n c e s can a l s o b e added w i t h o u t a f f e c t i n g i t s t e x t u r e .
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Creams
183
Soft Cream
%w/w
Ingredients: A Arlamol ISML Stearyl alcohol S i l i c o n e o i l (350 c s ) Arlamol E B r i j 700 B r i j 72
4.00
1.oo
0.50 1 .oo 2.25 2.25
88.10 0.40
B
Water, d e i o n i z e d Carbopol 934
C
Sodium h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % aqueous)
0.40
D
Preservative
0.10
E
*Perfume *q.s.
these i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) b e l o w 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C and add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
Jojoba Oil Cream Ingredients: A Jojoba O i l B r i j 72 B r i j 700 S t e a r y l a1 coho1 B
Water, d e i o n i zed
C
D o w i c i l 200
D
*Perfume *q.s.
10.00 2.70 1.30 4.00 81 - 9 0
0.10
these ingredients.
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and (B) t o 65C. Add (B) t o ( A ) u s i n g p r o p e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) a t a b o u t 50C and ( D ) a t a b o u t 45C. Add w a t e r a t 35C t o compensate f o r loss due t o evaporat i o n . Package. Formula PC-7158
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
184
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Vanishing Cream
%w/w
Ingredients: Arlamol ISML Stearyl alcohol S i l i c o n e o i l (350 c s ) Arlamol E B r i j 700 B r i j 72
10.00 4.00 0.50 3.00 2.00 3.00
Water, d e i o n i zed Sorbo C a r b o p o l 934
72.90 4.00 0.20
Sodium h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % aqueous)
0.20
Germall I 1
0.10
H e r b a l F r a g r a n c e SL 79-1224,
PFW
0.10
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add (D) b e l o w 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C and add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Vanishing Cream Ingredients: Arlamol ISML Stearyl alcohol S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s . Arlamol E B r i j 721 B r i j 72
A
nw/w 10.00 4.00 0.50 3.00 2.65 2.35
B
Water Sorbo, 70% S o r b i t o 1 s o l u t i on C a r b o p o l 934
C
NaOH ( 1 0 % aqueous)
0.20
D
D o w i c i l 200 p r e s e r v a t i v e *Perfume
0.10
73.00 4.00 0.20
*q. s . these i n g r e d i e n t s . Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n w a t e r and h e a t ( B ) t o 70C. Heat ( A ) t o 72C and add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add ( C ) and i n c r e a s e speed o f t h e a g i t a t i o n a s needed. Add (D) and replace water l o s t by evaporation. SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams
185
Vanishing Cream P a r t s bv Weight 8.0 12.0 1 .o 1. o 1.o 0.5
Phase 1 : Rosswax 63-041 2 Rosswax 573 Amerlate P Emerest 2314 Emerest 2316 G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e SE Phase 2 : Water Emery 916 Pure G l y c e r i n e Triethanolamine Fragrance P r e s e r v a t iv e
99.0 8.0 1.2 q.s. q.s.
Procedure: I n s e p a r a t e steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s h e a t b o t h phase 1 and 2 t o t e m p e r a t u r e o f 170F w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When t h e t e m p e r a t u r e i s r e a c h e d add phase 1 t o 2 w i t h c o n t i n u e d a g i t a t i o n c o o l i n g t o 120F t o package. F r a g r a n c e may be added t o t h e p r o d u c t as i t i s cooling.
Ross Cold Cream Formulation with Jojoba Oil Part A: Ross Beeswax S u b s t i t u t e 628/5 Ross F u l l y R e f i n e d P a r a f f i n Wax 150/160 M i n e r a l O i l 80/90 G l y c e r o l Monostearate S . E . Ross J o j o b a O i l P a r t B: Borax Water Fragrance Preservative
%!
11 . o 2.0 45.5 0.3 2.0
0.8 38.4 q.s. 9,s.
Procedure: Heat P a r t A t o 170F and a g i t a t e . Heat P a r t B t o 170F and a g i t a t e . Cool t o 160F and add P a r t A t o P a r t 0 a t 160F w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Cool s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n and p o u r a t 11OF. SOURCE: F r a n k 8 . Ross Co.,
Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
186
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W/O Cream with Eldew % bv weight I n g r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: P a r t A: D i - ( C h o l e s t e r y l , behenyl, o c t y l d o d e c y l ) N - L a u r o y l - L - g l u t a m i c a c i d e s t e r / E l d e w CL-301 2.0 C e t e a r y l Octanoate 8.0 C12-15 A1 k y l Benzoate 5.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.60 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.05 P a r t 8: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) C e t y l D i m e t h i cone Copolyol (and) Hexyl La u ra te 5.00 C e t y l Dimethicone 2.00 Part C: D e i o n i z e d Water 68.55 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.80 G l y c e r i n (99.5%) 5.00 2.00 P a r t i a l l y D e a c e t y l a t e d C h i t i n ( 1 .O%)/Marine Dew PC-100 P a r t D: Methylparaben 0.20 Butylene Glycol 0.80
Procedure: P r e - m e l t p a r t A a t 50 degrees C e n t i g r a d e . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . P r e - m e l t p a r t D b y h e a t i n g t o 50 d e g r e e s C . Add t o p a r t C . S l o w l y add p a r t C and D m i x t u r e t o p a r t s A and B w i t h h i g h s h e a r m i x i ng pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 Appearance: W h i t e , smooth, s h i n y l o t i o n V i s c o s i t y : 20,000-20,000 ( R V T #6 @ lOrpm @ 25 degrees C )
.
Cleansing Cream
Wt% L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C) Squal ane Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol N i k k o l WCB S o r b i t a n Monostearate Polyoxyethylene (15) Cetyl Ether A j i d e w T-50 Water Preservative Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o ( 0 ) s l o w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 5 . 7 SOURCE:
Ajinomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
35.0 10.0 2.0 3.0 1.o 10.0 2.4 2.6 3.0 31 . O 0.s.
Creams
187
90% Water Cream
P a r t s by Wei a h t 450. 0Gr 2.OGr. 1.QGr. 4.OGr. 16.OGr. 4.OGr. 16.OGr. 4.OGr. 4.OGr. 6.OGr. q.s.
.
Water Carbomer 934 P r o t o x T-25 Rosswax 63-041 2 Rosswax 1824 GMS SE Coconut O i l #76 Jojoba O i l Triethanolamine Germaben I I E F r a g r a n c e GK-21
Procedure: D i s p e r s e t h e Carbomer 934 i n t h e w a t e r , on a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l m e l t t h e O i l Phase. When t h e O i l Phase i s m e l t e d add i t t o t h e Water Phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Next add t h e f r a g r a n c e , t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and l a s t add t h e T r i e t h a n o l amine w i t h i n c r e a s e d a g i t a t i o n . Soft & Silky Vanishing Cream
Part (A) : Rosswax 63-0412 Rosswax 573 Ross L o t i o n O i l 2745 GMS-SE
P a r t s bv Weight 8.0
10.0 8.0 0.5
Part (B): Water P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Germaben I 1
97.0 8.0 2.0 1.2
Part ( C ) : Fragrance
q.s.
Procedure: Heat P a r t ( A ) and P a r t ( B ) t o 170F i n s e p a r a t e steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y h e a t e d add P a r t ( A ) t o P a r t ( B ) under a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 130F, F r a g r a n c e and package. SOURCE:
Frank 8 . Ross C o . ,
Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Section VI
Hair Care Products
188
Hair Care Products
189
"Arctic Mist" Spray Gel
T h i s w a t e r w h i t e , c l e a r , s p r a y a b l e g e l uses D i a f o r m e r 2-301 t o p r o v i d e e x c e l l e n t h o l d , c l e a r f i l m s , and no f l a k i n g . I t e x h i b i t s good v i s c o s i t y c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . S a n d o x y l a t e SX-424 i s used a s a f r a g r a n c e s o l u b i l i z e r . I n gr e d ie n t s ~ : QW D e i o n i z e d Water 91 . 8 0 Carbopol 980 0.30 NaOH 10% 0.40 D i a f o r m e r 2-301 6.95 Glycerin 0.10 D i s o d i urn EDTA 0.05 S a n d o x y l a t e SX-424 0.25 Fragrance 0.05 Preservative 0.10 Procedure: Add C a r b o p o l 980 t o w a t e r w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. Add NaOH 10% t o n e u t r a l i z e t h e C a r b o p o l 9 8 0 . M i x w e l l . Add D i a f o r m e r 2-301 and G l y c e r i n one a t a t i m e w i t h m i x i n g . Add D i s o d i um EDTA. P r e s o l u b i 1 i ze f r a g r a n c e in Sandoxyl a t e SX-424 and add t o b a t c h . M i x w e l l . A d j u s t pH as needed w i t h NaOH 10%. Properties: pH: 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 12,000-14,000 c p s . Appearance: Water w h i t e , c l e a r g e l Formul a t ion CHF-20 Super Hard Hold Hair Spray D i a h o l d A-503 i s used t o c r e a t e t h i s super h a r d h o l d h a i r s p r a y t h a t meets t h e 80% VOC r e q u i r e m e n t s . I t s a b i l i t y t o f o r m h a r d , c r y s t a l c l e a r f i l m s r e s u l t i n a h a i r s p r a y t h a t has good g l o s s and e x c e l l e n t h o l d on t h e h a i r . D i a h o l d A-503 i s a l s o e a s i l y removed f r o m t h e h a i r b y shampooing.
yawJ
Inaredients: D i a h o l d A-503
17.50 12.70 0.10 69.50 0.10 OS
Dei o n i zed Water Dow C o r n i n g 190 SD 40 A l c o h o l Lauramide DEA Fragrance Procedure: Add D i a h o l d A-503 t o a l c o h o l w i t h m i x i n g . Add w a t e r and m i x w e l l . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g . P r o p e r t ie s : Appearance: P a l e Ye1 1ow L i q u i d pH: 8 . 2 - 8 . 6 F o r m u l a t i o n CHF-18 SOURCE: Sandoz C h e m i c a l s C o r p . :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
190
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Balsam Conditioner M a c k i n e 301 ( S t e a r a m i d o o r o. w _l Dimethylamine) Mackol 16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) P h o s p h o r i c A c i d (85%) Sodium C h l o r i d e M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Balsam o f P e r u Water, Dye qs t o
W e i q h t .% 1.6 1.8 0.9 0.3 qs qs 100.0
Procedure: 1 . Add t h e f i r s t f o u r components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 70 d e g r e e s C. 2 . 81 end u n t i 1 homogeneous. 3 . Cool t o 45 d e g r e e s C . and add M a c k s t a t DM and Balsam o f Peru. 4 . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and f i l l . Clear Conditioner with Wheat Germ Cationic Weinht,% Mackalene 716 (Wheat Germamidopropyl D i m e t h y l a m i n e Lactate) N a t r o s o l 250 HHR M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, F r a g r a n c e , Dye, qs t o
1.o 1.o qs 100.0
Procedure: 1 Completely d i s p e r s e Natrosol i n water. 2 . Heat t o 45 d e g r e e s C . and add Mackalene 716. 3. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 w i t h l a c t i c a c i d . 4 . When p r o d u c t i s c l e a r , add r e m a i n i n g components. 5 . Cool and f i l l . I
Clear Leave-On Conditioner Mackalene 426 ( I s o s t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l M o r p h o l i n e L a c t a t e ) N a t r o s o l 250 HHR M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) D e i o n i z e d Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o Procedure: 1. C o m p l e t e l y d i s p e n s e N a t r o s o l i n w a t e r . 2 . Add Mackalene 426 and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 3. Heat t o 40 d e g r e e s C . and add r e m a i n i n g components. SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . :
P e r s o n a l Care F o r m u l a r y
Weiqht,% 6.0 1.o qs 100.0
Hair Care Products
191
Birch Hair Lotion E t h a n o l 96% B i r c h ( w a t e r ) Speci a1 S o f t i g e n 767 M a r l a z i n KC 3 0 / 5 0 A1 1a n t o i n Vitamin F Pant h e n o l Water
50.0 5.0
5.0 0.5 0.2 0.2 0.2 t o 100.0
Preparation : The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . Invigorating Hair Lotion W S 45.0
Isopropanol S o f t i g e n 767 M a r l o w e t R 40/K Menthol Camphor Stinging N e t t l e Special Perfume Water
3.0 1.o
0.2 0.05 1 .o qs t o 100.0
Preparation : The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The p H i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . Hair Conditioner A . M a r l a z i n K C 30/50 Cetyl alcohol Marlamid M 1218 C e l l o s i z e QP 100 MH Water 6 . Perfume
Colour P r e s e r v a t ive
P r e p a r a t i on : The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e added t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d w h i l e warm u n t i l homogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s o f B. a r e added t o A . a t a p p r o x . 3 0 C . The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 . SOURCE: Huls America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmetics: Formulas
192
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Brushing Gel
Wt% A . Amihope LL POE ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n Mono1a u r a t e POE ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n M o n o s t e a r a t e POE ( 2 5 ) G l y c e r y l Monopyroglutamate M o n o i s o s t e a r a t e P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Grape Seed O i l B . C a r b o x y v i n y l Polymer
(Carbopol 940)
Dei o n i zed Water Preservatives C.
10% w t .
0.5 0.5 0.5 1.o 2.0 0.5
(1 .Owt% solution) 50.0 balance 0.2
NaOH S o l u t i o n
2.0
Procedure: 1 . Weigh each i n g r e d i e n t ( A ) i n g l a s s v e s s e l and m i x . 2 . Add ( 8 ) t o t h e f o r m e r m i x t u r e and h e a t t o 70-8OC w i t h s t i r r ing. 3 . A f t e r d i s s o l u t i o n , c o o l down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Then add (C) t o t h e mixed s o l u t i o n and i t t u r n s t o g e l s t a t e . Note: T h i s b r u s h i n g g e l reduces an e l e c t o s t a t i c c h a r g e produced by combing and l e a d s t o smooth combing. Hair Brushing Lotion
Wt% Amihope LL POE ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n M o n o l a u r a t e ( P o l y s o r b a t e 2 0 ) Water Ethanol
1. o
1
48.0
Procedure: M i x a l l components a t room t e m p e r a t u r e .
Note: T h i s h a i r b r u s h i n g l o t i o n has good a n t i s t a t i c e f f e c t and smoothness f o r t h e h a i r . Amihope L i a c t s as h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t i n s t e a d o f t h e cationic surfactant. Usage: Spray t h e h a i r b e f o r e b r u s h i n g .
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
.o
50.0
Hair Care Products
193
Brushing Lotion
Wt% A.
AmihoDe LL PO€ ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n M o n o l a u r a t e POE ( 2 5 ) G l y c e r y l M o n o p y r o g l u t a m a t e M o n o i s o s t e a r a t e P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l
€3.
Stearyl Alcohol C a r b o x y v i n y l Polymer ( C a r b o p o l 941 ) ( 0 . 5 w t % s o l u t i o n ; n e u t r a l i z e d b y NaOH) D e i o n i z e d Water P r e s e r v a t i ves
C.
0.5 1.5 1.o 2.0
0.5 15.0 balance 0.2 0.2 5.0
Prodew 100 Ethanol
Procedure: 1 . Weigh each i n g r e d i e n t (A) i n g l a s s v e s s e l and m i x . 2 . Add (B) t o t h e f o r m e r m i x t u r e and h e a t t o 70-8OC w i t h s t i r r i ng. 3 . A f t e r d i s s o l u t i o n , c o o l down t o 50C. Then add ( C ) t o t h e m i xed s o l u t i on. 4 . W i t h s t i r r i n g , c o o l down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Note : T h i s b r u s h i n g l o t i o n r e d u c e s an e l e c t r o s t a t i c c h a r g e p r o d u c e d by combing and l e a d s t o a smooth combing. Hair Rinse
Wt% A.
Cetanol A m i t e r LGOD-2 G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e , S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g (HLB 1 1 ) Amihope LL
0. 1 , 3 - B u t y l e n e g l y c o l
Stearyltrimethylammonium C h o r i d e Methylparaben Water Procedure: 1. Dissolve 2. Dissolve 3 . Add ( 8 ) t 4 . M i x them
(A) a t 8OC. ( B ) a t 8OC. o (A). w i t h a homomixer, and c o o l t o 30C.
Note: T h i s creamy h a i r r i n s e has l i g h t f i n i s h i n g t o u c h .
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
3.0 5.0 2.0 3.0 5.0 3.0 0.2 the rest
194
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Clear Conditioner C o n d i t i o n i n g p l u s f i l m c l a r i t y maximizes t h e n a t u r a l beauty o f the hair.
w
Ingredients:
Function
1 . Hydroxyethyl C e l l u l o s e (Natrosol
250 HHR) 2 . D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water 3 . Propylene Glycol 4 . EDTA 5 . Ammonyx KP ( O l e a l k o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 6 , P o l y q u t a 400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 7 . L a n e t o 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 8 . R i t a p a n DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 9 . R i t a b a t e 20 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 2 0 ) 1 0 . F r a g r a n c e #189-724 1 1 . K a t h o n CG
0.80 84.32 5.00 0.10 6.00 1 .oo 0.75 1.oo 0.80 0.20 0.03
Viscosity
-------- -
Humectant C1 a r i t y Conditioning Combing Conditioning Body Clarity Odor Preservative
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : I n 60% o f t h e w a t e r d i s s o l v e i t e m 1 . Add i t e m 3 , m i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add i t e m 4 and m i x . I n a s e p a r a t e b e a k e r d i s p e r s e i t e m 6 i n r e m a i n i n g w a t e r . M i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add i t e m s 5,7 and 8 i n o r d e r . Combine and add i t e m 9 . Add p e r f u m e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . R e f . No. 118-125 Light Hair Conditioner A c o n d i t i o n e r d e s i g n e d f o r normal / o i 1y h a i r t o maxi m i z e c o m b a b i l i t y and m a n a g e a b i l i t y . H e l p s keep h a i r c l e a n e r l o n g e r
Ingredients: 1 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . Rita-CTAC ( C e t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 3 . Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d 4. 5. 6. 7.
R i t a p r o 200 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) C i t r i c A c i d @ 100% Glydant D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water
w
Function 3.50 E m u l s i f i e r , T h i c k e n e r 2.00 Conditioner 2.00 S i l k y Feel, Lubrication 2.00 E m u l s i f i e r 0 . 0 5 pH A d j u s t e r 0.20 Preservative go 25
____________
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat w a t e r and C i t r i c A c i d t o 65C. P r e - m i x R i t a CA, R i t a CTAC and R i t a p r o 200 and h e a t t o 70C. S l o w l y add p r e - m i x t o w a t e r phase and a g i t a t e . W h i l e m i x i n g c o o l t o 45-5OC. Add G l y d a n t and Dow C o r n i n g . R e f . No. 116-166 SOURCE: R .
I . T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products
195
Clear Gel Hairdressing
I nq r e d ien t s : A
M i n e r a l o i l , Naphthenic, B r i j 97 Arlatone G Propylene g l y c o l Sorbo
B
Water, d e i o n i zed
C
*Perfume #44575,
D r a k o l 10B
13.70 15.50 15.50 8.60 6.90 39.80
Fritzsche Brothers
f q . s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat ( A ) and ( 8 ) t o 9OC. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Cool t o 70C and add ( C ) . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m and p o u r w h i l e s t i l l fluid. Water/Oil Hair Dressing Inqredients: A Petrolatum Mineral o i l Lanol i n A r l a c e l 83 Beeswax Zinc stearate
B
Borax Water, d e i o n i z e d
C
* F r a g r a n c e and P r e s e r v a t i v e
%&yl 7.50 37.50 3.00 3.00 2.00 1 .oo
0.50 45.50
*q.s , these i n g r e d i e n t s . Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 75C. Heat ( B ) t o 77C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate b u t t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 45C. S t i r u n t i l room t e m p e r a t u r e and package.
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
196
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Clear 'N' Natural Conditioner T h i s c l e a r c o n d i t i o n e r acquires i t s v i s c o s i t y from t h e superior thickening properties o f Crothix*. Inaredients: 3 Part A: Oeioni zed w a t e r 87.5 C r o v o l PK-70 (PEG-45 Palm K e r n e l G l y c e r i d e s ) 3.0 P a r t E: P r o c e t y l AWS (PPG-5 C e t e t h 20) 3.0 C r o t h i x * (PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e ) 2.0 Part C: I n c r o q u a t 0-50 ( O l e a l k o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 2.0 0.5 I n c r o q u a t EA-85 (Babassuamidopropalkonium C h l o r i d e ) Part D: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% q s t o pH 6 P a r t E: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and) M e t h y l Paraben (and) P r o p y l Paraben** 1. o H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA (Wheat Amino A c i d s ) 1. o Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A and h e a t t o 80-85C. When P a r t A i s homogeneous, add P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l b a t c h t o 30-35C. A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 + - 0 . 5 u s i n g P a r t 0. Add P a r t E w i t h m i x i n g . **Germaben I 1 N . A . T . C . Approved *The use o f C r o t h i x i n c o s m e t i c and o t h e r f o r m u l a t i o n s i s c o v e r e d u n d e r U . S . P a t e n t #5,192,462. F o r m u l a HP-165 Cream of Wheat Conditioner This conditioner gives excellent conditioning/moisturizing characteri s t i cs. 96 Ineredients: Part A: Pol awax (Emu1 s i f y i ng Wax NF) 5.00 I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS ( B e h e n t r i m o n i u m M e t h o s u l f a t e (and) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 3.00 2.50 Super R e f i n e d Wheat Germ O i l (Wheat Germ O i l ) P a r t E: D e i o n i z e d Water 85.50 P a r t C: C r o p e p t i d e W ( H y d r o l y z e d Wheat P r o t e i n (and) Wheat 3.00 01 i g o s a c c h a r i d e s ) Germaben I 1 1 .oo Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75C. Heat P a r t B t o 75C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 45C. Add i n g r e d i e n t s f r o m P a r t C s e q u e n t i a l l y w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e . p H : 4.5+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y : 50,OOOcps+-lO% N.A.T.C. Approved Formul a HP-164
SOURCE: Croda
Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products
197
Conditioner and Setting Lotion Mackalene 316 ( S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l G a f q u a t 755 Mackol 1 6 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) U a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o
Dimethylamine L a c t a t e )
Wei a h t , % 4.0
8.0 0.5 qs 100.0
Procedure: 1 . C o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e G a f q u a t 755 i n w a t e r . 2 . Add Mackalene 316 and Mackol 16 and h e a t t o 70 d e g r e e s C . 3. 61 end u n t i 1 c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous. 4 . Cool t o 45 d e g r e e s C . and add r e m a i n i n g components. 5. Coo1 and f i l l I
Curl Conditioner and Oil Sheen Glycerine Propylene Glycol Mackpro NLP ( Q u a t e r n i u m - 7 9 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ) (Natural L i p i d Protein) Mackanate DC-30 ( D i s o d i u m D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l Sul fosucci nate) M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) D e i o n i z e d Water qs t o
Wei Qht ,% 47.0 3.0
4.0 3.0
qs 100.0
Procedure: Add comDonents i n o r d e r and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . Foaming Conditioner Mackam 35 (Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne ( V i a Gl y c e r i de) Mackalene 116 ( C o c a m i d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l a m i n e L a c t a t e ) Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ) (Natural L i p i d Protein) N a t r o s o l 250 HHR M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o
Wei a h t , % 10.0 15.0
4.0 0.7 qs 100.0
Procedure: 1 . T h o r o u g h l y d i s p e r s e t h e N a t r o s o l i n w a t e r and h e a t t o 45 degrees C . 2 . Add Mackam 35, Mackalene 116 and Mackpro NLP. 3 . Blend u n t i l c l e a r . 4 . Add M a c k s t a t DM, f r a g r a n c e and dye. 5 . Cool and f i 1 1 .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : P e r s o n a l C a r e F o r m u l a r y
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
198
Conditioner with Croquat HH T h i s creamy w h i t e c o n d i t i o n e r o f f e r s t h e s u b s t a n t i v i t y b e n e f i t s of q u a t e r n i z i n g w i t h t h e permanant c o n d i t i o n i n g p o t e n t i a1 o f a c y s t e i n e - c o n t a i n i ng p r o t e i n . Innredi ants: 3 Part A: I n c r o q u a t S-85 ( S t e a r a l k o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 1.50 Pol awax ( E m u l s i f y i ng Wax NF) 4.50 C r o d a c o l CS-50 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 5.60 Crodamol W ( S t e a r y l H e p t a n o a t e ) 6.50 I n c r o c a s 40 (PEG-40 C a s t o r O i l ) 2.75 P a r t 8: Dei o n i zed Water 75.15 P a r t C: C r o q u a t HH (Cocodimonum H y d r o x y p r o p y l H y d r o l y z e d H a i r Keratin) 3.00 P a r t D: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben (and) P r o p y l Paraben* 1 .oo Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-80C. Heat P a r t B t o 75-80C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g , w h i l e a v o i d i n g a e r a t i o n , and c o o l t o 55C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add P a r t D w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i 11 temperature. pH: 4 . 0 + - 0 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 35,000+-10% ( @ 25C) Germaben I 1 N . A . T . C . Approved F o r m u l a HP-172
*
High Performance Creme Rinse Conditioner This formulation gives excellent conditioning t o h a i r . % Inaredients: Part A: C r o d a f o s CES ( C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l (and) C e t e a r y l p h o s p h a t e ) 6 . 0 0 I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS ( B e h e n t r i m o n i u m M e t h o s u l f a t e (and) Cetearyl Alcohol) 1-00 Propyl paraben 0.10 0.50 V o l p o S-2 ( S t e a r e t h - 2 ) C r o d a c o l C-70 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2.00 1 .oo Crodamol PTIS ( P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a i s o s t e a r a t e ) P a r t B: D e i o n i zed Water 87.98 1.00 I n c r o m e c t a n t LAMEA ( A c e t a m i d e MEA (and) L a c t a m i d e MEA) Methyl paraben 0.10 P a r t C: TEA 99% 0.32 Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 65-70. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 65-70C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and add P a r t C . Cool t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e . pH: 4 . 5 0 + - 0 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 56,000+-10% N . A . T . C . Approved Formula HP-178-1 SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products
199
Cream Curl Activator Formula: Phase A : D e i o n i z e d Water Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Panthenol Hydro1 yzed S i 1 k P r o t e i n ( I keda) Q u a t e r n i urn-1 5
%Wt. 80.43 0.20 0.02 1 .oo 1 .oo 0.30
Phase 6: Macol CPS S o l u l a n 16 Carnation Mineral O i l Masi 1 656 F l u i d Masi 1 SF-V F l u i d M a s i l 280
6.00 1.oo 2.00 3.00 3.00 2.00
Phase C : C i t r i c A c i d 50% Fragrance
0.05 q.s.
Procedure: D i s p e r s e H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t h e w a t e r ; add TEA t o i n i t i a t e h y d r a t i o n . A f t e r 20 m i n s . add r e m a i n i n g A i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t t o 55C and s t i r . S e p a r a t e l y b l e n d 6 and h e a t t o 55C. Add 6 t o A, m a i n t a i n a g i t a t i o n w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C. A d j u s t pH and add f r a g r a n c e . Hair Relaxer Emulsion Stearyl alcohol PEG-75 1a n o l in White Protopet S Petrolatum Emu1 s i f y i ng wax Propylene g l yco Hydrolyzed animal p r o t e i n Stearic acid Sodi um h y d r o x i de, 50% Fragrance Water
Percent 14.00 4.00 18.00 5.50
5.00 5.00 1 .50 6.00 0.30
q.s.100.00
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formulations
200
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cream Hair Conditioner A . 01 e y l A l c o h o l Mackol 16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) M a c k e s t e r SP ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e M o d i f i e d ) BHA P r o p y l Paraben
W e i g h t ,% 10.0 2.5 3.0
0.1 0.1
B . Mackalene 31 6 ( S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l ami ne L a c t a t e ) 2 5 . 0 M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) qs Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e q s t o 100.0 Procedure: 1 . Heat p a r t A t o 70 d e g r e e s C . 2 . Add Mackalene 316 t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 70 d e g r e e s C . 3 . Add A t o B and w i t h c o n t i n u o u s b l e n d i n g c o o l t o 4 5 d e g r e e s C . 4 . Add r e m a i n i n g components and c o o l . Hair Conditioner Wei q h t ,% Mackadet CBC ( C o n d i t i o n e r c o n c e n t r a t e f o r v i s c o u s cream 5.0 consistency) M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) qs 100.0 Water, F r a g r a n c e , Dye qs t o Procedure: 1 . Add Mackadet CBC t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 70 d e g r e e s C . 2 . W i t h c o n t i n u o u s m i x i n g c o o l t o 50 d e g r e e s C . 3. Add r e m a i n i n g components and c o o l . Pearl Conditioner Wei g h t ,% Macadet LCB ( L i q u i d C o n d i t i o n e r C o n c e n t r a t e t h a t can be c o l d b l ended) T r i e t h a n o l Ami ne Sodium C h l o r i d e M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e q . s . t o Procedure: 1 . Warm w a t e r t o 40 d e g r e e s C . 2 . Add sodium c h l o r i d e and TEA. 3. Add Mackadet LCB and b l e n d s l o w l y . 4 . When c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d add dye, 5 . Cool and f i 11.
10.0 1.o
0.5 qs 100.0
p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group Ltd.: P e r s o n a l C a r e F o r m u l a r y
Hair Care Products
201
Cream Hair Rinse Inqredients: Cetyl alcohol B r i j 721s Forestal 1 Water, d e i o n i z e d
o/,w/w 1.50 1.oo 1.40 96.10
Procedure: Heat t o 70 deg. C w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool w i t h s t i r r i n g and add makeup w a t e r . F o r m u l a PC-8214 Hydrogen Peroxide Emulsion
w
I nq r ed i e n t s : A
Cetyl alcohol B r i j 721, S t e a r e t h - 2 1 S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s .
6.00 5.00 0 50 I
B
W a t e r , d e i o n i zed
66.30
C
Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 27% d i l u t i o n g r a d e
22 * 20
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and ( B ) t o 65C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) b e l o w 35C. R e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 w i t h d i l u t e p h o s p h o r i c a c i d ( 1 0 % C . P . ) . Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b l e e v o l u t i on o f oxygen. F o r m u l a HC-13 Permanent Wave Lotion Inaredients: Forestall B r i j 35 SP Water, d e i o n i zed
A
%w/w 1.40 2.00 80.10
B
E t h a n o l ami ne
9.50
C
Thioglycolic acid
7.00
Procedure: M i x ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e h e a t i f n e c e s s a r y u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add (B). Add ( C ) . A d j u s t pH t o 9 . 0 - 9 . 5 w i t h a d d i t i o n a l e t h a n o l a m i n e o r t h i o g l y c o l ic a c i d . F o r m u l a HC-15
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
202
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Deep Conditioning Treatment Deep c o n d i t i o n i n g f o r m u l a based on a c o n t r o l l e d d e p o s i t i o n o f Cholesterol I
Inaredients Function 75.17 1 . D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 3.00 M o i s t u r e 2. Propylene Glycol 2.00 Control 3 . R i t a c h o l ( R . I . T . A . Blend) 4 . Rita-STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 1 .50 Condi t i o n e r 1.00 Repair 5 . C h o l e s t e r o l NF 6 . S u p e r s a t AWS-4 (PEG-20 H y d r o g e n a t e d 2 . 0 0 Repair Lanolin) I O ,00 E m u l s i f i e r 7 . R i t a c h o l 1000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 8. Petrolatum 5.00 Repair 9. F r a g r a n c e 0 . 3 0 Odor 10. Kathon CG 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e
---------
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 and 2 and h e a t t o 75-8OC. I n a s e p a r a t e b e a k e r combine i t e m s 3-8 and h e a t t o 70C. M i x and add t o w a t e r phase w i t h good m i x i n g . Cool t o 50C and add p e r f u m e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . R e f . No. 118-116 Intensive Conditioner with Body A detangling c o n d i t i o n e r w i t h great wet/dry has i n c r e a s e d body/volume.
combing. H a i r
Function Inaredients: 1 . Rita-BTAC ( B e h e n t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 4.00 C o n d i t i o n e r , A n t i Static 2 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 3 . 0 0 E m u l s i f ie r , T h i c k e n e r 3 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1 .OO E m u l s i f i e r , Thickener 4. D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 80.80 5 . V o l a t i l e S i l i c o n e F l u i d 344 o r 345 5 . 0 0 L u b r i c a n t , E m o l l i e n t 5 . 0 0 L u b r i c a n t , Emoll ie n t 6. S i l i c o n e F l u i d 200 (100 c S t ) 1.00 Nourishment 7. Wheat Germ O i 1 8 . Glydant 0.20 Preservative
----.---------
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat i t e m s 1-3 t o 70C. Heat w a t e r t o 80-85C. Add i t e m s 1-3 t o w a t e r and m i x u n t i l i t r e a c h e s 50C. Then add i t e m s 5-7 and m i x . A t 45C add i t e m s 8 . M i x u n t i l 35-4OC. Ref. No. 116-170
SOURCE: R . I . T . A .
Corp.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products
203
Ethnic Hair Care Clear Hair Rinse Inaredients: Water Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e P r e s e r v a t i ve P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l G1y c e r in Q u a t e r n iurn-80 ( A b i 1 Quat 3272) D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L) Fragrance
e 91.30 1.20 Q.S. 3.00 2 .oo 0.50 1 .oo 1 .oo
Q.S.
Procedure: 1 . Add t h e w a t e r and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Heat t o 50C. M i x . D i s p e r s e t h e HMC. M i x u n t i l c l e a r . 2 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s . Cool t o 35C. 3 . P r e b l e n d t h e T a g a t L and f r a g r a n c e . Add t o b a t c h . M i x u n t i l c l e a r u s i n g s l o w speed. Ethnic Hair Care Hair Dressings Inqredients: Water H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l ose Preservative Prowlene Glycol G1 y c e r in Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L ) Fragrance
%w/w 91 .30 1.20
Q.S. 3.00 2.00 0.50 1 .oo 1.oo
Q.S.
Procedure: 1 . Add t h e w a t e r and p r e s e r v a t i v e . H e a t t o 50C. M i x . D i s p e r s e t h e HMC. M i x u n t i l c l e a r . 2 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s . Cool t o 35C. 3 . P r e b l e n d t h e T a g a t L and f r a g r a n c e . Add t o b a t c h . M i x u n t i l c l e a r u s i n g s l o w speed. SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested Formul a t i ons
204
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gels Hair Repair Ingredients: 9bw/w T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 0.10 Water 75.80 Glycerin 5.00 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 15.00 Carbomer 940 0.75 1 .oo D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) D i m e t h i c o n e P r o p y l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l B 9950) 0.50 Dimethicone/Sodium PG P r o p y l D i m e t h i c o n e T h i o s u l f a t e 1.oo Copolymer ( A b i l S 2 0 1 ) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L ) 0.50 Q.S. Fragrance Preservatives Q.S. T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 0.35 Procedure: 1 . M i x t h e w a t e r , G l y c e r i n , P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l , and T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA t o g e t h e r . D i s p e r s e t h e Carbomer 940. 2 . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l between a d d i t i o n s . N o t e : P r e b l e n d t h e Tagat L and f r a g r a n c e . 3 . N e u t r a l i z e t h e Carbomer w i t h Sodium H y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n or t h e Triethanolamine. Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-on Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens Conditioning Sheen Ingredients: 72.00 Water 0.10 T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 10.00 P r o p y l e n e G1y c o l 15.00 G1y c e r in 0.40 Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) 0.25 D i m e t h i c o n e P r o p y l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l B 9950) 0.75 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i 1 B 88183) 0.75 PEG-75 L a n o l i n 0.50 PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L ) PEG-I8 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e / O l e a t e ( A n t i l 171) 0.25 Q.S. Fragrance Preservatives Q.S. T O pH 5-6 C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n ) Procedure: 1 . Heat w a t e r t o 50C. D i s s o l v e T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA. 2 . Add t h e Tagat L , A n t i l 171, and PEG-75 L a n o l i n . M i x u n t i l clear. 3 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between a d d i tions. 4 . Adjust pH. SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products
205
Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gel For Shine
m
Inaredients: T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Water G1y c e r in Propylene G l y c o l Carbomer 940 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 8851) D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L ) Fragrance Preservatives Sodium H y d r o x i d e (25% S o l u t i o n )
0.10 76.65 15.00 5.00 0.75 1 .oo 1.oo 0.50 Q.S. Q.S. t o pH 6
Procedure: 1 . M i x t h e w a t e r , G l y c e r i n , P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l , and T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA t o g e t h e r . D i s p e r s e t h e Carbomer 940. 2 . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l between a d d i t i o n s . N o t e : P r e b l e n d t h e T a g a t L and f r a g r a n c e . 3 . N e u t r a l i z e t h e Carbomer w i t h Sodium H y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n o r t h e Triethanolamine. Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gel Moisturizing
Inaredi e n t s : T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Water Glycerin Propylene G l y c o l Carbomer 940 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) D i m e t h i c o n e P r o p y l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L) Fragrance Preservatives T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)
%w/w
B 9950)
0.10 76.30 10.00 10.00 0.75 1 .oo 1 .oo 0.50 Q.S.
Q.S. 0.35
Procedure: 1 . M i x t h e w a t e r , G l y c e r i n , P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l , and T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA t o a e t h e r . D i s D e r s e t h e Carbomer 940. 2 . Add t h e - r e s t of t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g we 1 between a d d i t i o n s . Note: P r e b l e n d t h e T a g a t L and f r a g r a n c e 3 . N e u t r a l i z e t h e Carbomer w i t h Sodium H y d r o x i d e s o l u t on o r t h e Triethanolamine. SOURCE: Goldschmi dt Chemical C o r p : Suggested Formul a t ons I
206
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Ethnic Hair Care Leave-In Moisturizing/Sheen Inaredients: Phase A: T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA Water Oleth-20 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) G1 y c e r in
0.1
77.9 2.0 3.0 0.5 15.0
Phase B : PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L) Fragrance Preservative
1.5 Q.S.
Q.S.
Procedure: 1 . Add t h e w a t e r , O l e t h - 2 0 , h e a t t o 40C. M i x u n t i l c l e a r . 2 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A m i x i n g each u n t i clear. 3 . Add t h e f r a g r a n c e t o t h e Tagat L. M i x w e l l add t o Phase A . add p r e s e r v a t i v e s . 4 . Cool w i t h m i x i n g
-
-
Ethnic Hair Care Hair Cuticle Coat Conditioner Inaredients: Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol (and) Dimethicone ( A b i l OSW 1 2 ) Cyclomethicone Isohexadecane o r M i n e r a l Oil I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e g o s o f t M) O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 2 0 ) Fragrance
%w/w
Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g .
SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
55.0 25.0 10.0 3.0 2.0 5.0 Q.S.
Hair Care Products
207
Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-on Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens Moisturizing Sheen Ingredients: Water T e t r a s o d i um EDTA P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l G1 y c e r i n D i m e t h i c o n e P r o p y l PG B e t a i n e (AB11 B 9950) D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-75 Lanol i n PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L ) PEG-18 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e / O l e a t e ( A n t i l 171) Fragrance Preservatives C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n )
% Z 72.40 0.10 10.00 15.00 0.50 0.50 0.75 0.50 0.25
Q.S. Q.S. TO pH 5-6
Procedure: 1 . Heat w a t e r t o 50C. D i s s o l v e T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 2. Add t h e Tagat L, A n t i l 171, and PEG-75 L a n o l i n . M i x u n t i l clear. 3 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between additions. 4 . A d j u s t pH. Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-on Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens Extra Sheen Ingredients: Water T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA Propylene Glycol G1 y c e r i n D i m e t h i c o n e P r o p y l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l B 9950) D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-75 Lanol i n PEG-30 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e / O l e a t e ( A n t i l 171) Fragrance Preservatives C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n )
?viJ ty 66.15 0.10 10.00 20.00 0.75 1.50 0.75 0.25
Q.S. Q.S. T O pH 5 - 6
Procedure: 1. Heat w a t e r t o 50C. D i s s o l v e T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA. 2 . Add t h e T a g a t L, A n t i l 171, and PEG-75 L a n o l i n . M i x u n t i l clear. 3 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between a d d i t i ons 4 . A d j u s t pH.
.
SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
208
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Ethnic Hair Glosser/Conditioner T h i s w a t e r - i n - o i l f o r m u l a based on a s i l i c o n e D o l v m e r i c e m u l s i f i e r i s d e s i g n e d f o r u s e as a l e a v e on c o n d i t i o n e r t o g i v e g l o s s and body e s p e c i a l l y f o r h a i r w h i c h has been c h e m i c a l l y treated. Inaredients: O i l Phase: Phase A: C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l (Ab 1 EM-90) Petrolatum Mineral O i l C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l Wax 9801) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) Lanolin O i l Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 20)
2.0 6.0 10.0 2.0 3.5 3.5 3.0 2.0
Phase B: Fragrance
Q.S.
Water Phase: Phase C : Water Sodium C h l o r i d e Glycerin Preservatives
64.3 0.7 3.0
Q.S.
Procedure: 1 . B l e n d t h e components o f Phase A t o g e t h e r , h e a t i n g t o 5OC. Mix u n t i l f u l l y dispersed. 2 . Cool t o 40-45C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add f r a g r a n c e . 3. I n a s e p a r a e v e s s e l , m i x t h e components t o Phase C t o g e t h e r . 4 . Add Phase C t o Phase A / B s l o w l y w i t h s l o w l i g h t n i n g m i x . M i x u n t i l a 1 w a t e r i s i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h e o i l phase. 5 . Homogeni ze. Ethnic Pump Spray Conditioner Inaredients: Water Propylene G l y c o l Glycerin D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) Panthenol Tocopherol A c e t a t e ( V i t a m i n E) Preservatives
&y& .
Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g . SOURCE: Goldschmi d t Chemical Corp. : Suggested Formul a t ions
82.2 7.5 7.5 2.0 0.5 0.2 0.1
Q.S.
Hair Care Products
209
Ethnic Hair Glosser/Extra Conditioning T h i s w a t e r - i n - o i l f o r m u l a based on a s i l i c o n e p o l y m e r i c e m u l s i f i e r i s d e s i g n e d f o r use as a l e a v e on c o n d i t i o n e r t o g i v e g l o s s and body e s p e c i a l l y f o r h a i r w h i c h has been chemic a l l y t r e a t e d
.
%&y&
Inaredients: Phase A : O i l Phase: C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l EM-90) Petrolatum Mineral O i l C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) Lanolin O i l Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 20) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3474)
2.0 6.0 10.0 2.0
3.5 3.0 3.0 2.0
0.5
Phase 8 : Fragrance
Q.S
Water Phase: Phase C : Water Sodium C h l o r i d e G1 y c e r in Preservatives
64.3 0.7 3.0 Q.S
Procedure: 1 . B l e n d t h e components o f Phase A t o g e t h e r h e a t i n g t o 50C. Mix u n t i l f u l l y dispersed. 2 . Cool t o 40-45C w i t h a g i t a t i o n - add f r a g r a n c e . 3. I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , m i x t h e components t o Phase C t o g e t h e r . 4. Add Phase C t o Phase A/B s l o w l y w i t h s l o w l i g h t n i n g m i x . M i x u n t i l a l l w a t e r i s i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h e o i l phase. 5 . Homogeni ze
-
.
Ethnic Hair Care Extra Conditioning Coat Conditioner Inaredients : C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) D i m e t h i c o n o l ( a n d ) D i m e t h i cone ( A b i l OSW 1 2 ) C y c l omethi cone Isohexadecane o r M i n e r a l O i l O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 20) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3474) Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g .
SOURCE:
Go1 dschmi d t Chemical Corp, : Suggested Formul a t i ons
50.0 30.5 8.0 3.0 3.0 5.0 0.5
210
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Extra Hold Conditioning Mousse % b y Wei P h t 37.35 3.75
I.Water Amp home r Ami n o m e t h y l P r o p a n o l Dow C o r n i n g 929 E m u l s i o n Phosphol ip i d EFA SD3A A l c o h o l
0.60 0.40 0.60 10.00
11. H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e Water
0.30 37.00
I11. P r o p e l 1a n t
10.00
Procedure: P r e p a r e P a r t I and I 1 s e p a r a t e l y . To p r e p a r e P a r t 11, c a r e f u l l y s p r i n k l e h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t o w a t e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Heat may be a p p l i e d t o h e l p s o l u b i l i z a t i o n . B l e n d P a r t I 1 t o I and t h e n a e r o s o l i z e . Formula F-554 Leave-On Hair Conditioner % bv W e i q h t
Inqredients: Water Hydroxyethyl C e l l u l o s e G l y c o l Di s t e a r a t e Cetearyl Alcohol Monaquat TG Phosphol ip i d EFA M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben
90 I 2 0.5 1.5 1.8 5.5 0.3 0.1 0.1
Procedure Charge w a t e r , s l o w l y add h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e w i t h good a g i t a t i o n Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 65-7OC. S t i r c o o l t o b l e n d 40C and add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , e t c . Package.
.
White Pearled L o t i o n V i s c o s i t y : 2500 cp pH: 5 . 6
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,
Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products
211
Firm Hold Hairspray Innredients: Resyn 28-291 3 AMP C r o t e i n AD Anhydrous DC- 190 Armeed DM18D Fragrance Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40 P r o p e l 1a n t A-46
P a r t s by Weight 2.50 0.24 0.20 0.20 0.15
Q.S. 71 - 7 1 25.00
V a l v e : S e a q u i s t NS-41 Stem: 2 x 0 . 0 2 0 " ( A c e t a l ) Stem G a s k e t : Buna N 0.042'' S p r i n g : 0 . 0 2 3 " 302 SS Body: 0 . 0 6 2 " ( N y l o n ) 0.020'' VT M o u n t i n g Cup: R e g u l a r , Epoxy Top/Bottom, D i m p l e d A c t u a t o r : 0.020" M i s t y , A c e t a l ( b l a c k ) P r e p a r a t ion : D i s s o l v e AMP i n anhydrous e t h a n o l , SDA-40. S l o w l y add Resyn 28-2913 t o t h e s o l u t i o n w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i11 c o n c e n t r a t e . Charge p r o p e l 1a n t . Formul a 6472 :9 4 High Performance Styling Spray I n a r e d ients: Resyn 28-2930 AMP Dow C o r n i n g 556 f l u i d C r o t e i n AD Anh. Citroflex 2 Fragrance 190 P r o o f E t h a n o l , SDA-40
P a r t s b y Wei a h t 6.75 0.83
0.15 0.20 0.15 0.10 92.02
P r e p a r a t i on : D i s s o l v e AMP i n t h e 190 p r o o f SDA-40. W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add Resyn 28-2930 t o t h e v o r t e x . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e . Add b a l a n c e o f i n g r e d i e n t s . When homogeneous, f i l t e r and f i l l . Formula 6472:95 SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical C o r p . :
Suggested Formulas
212
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Gel Curl Activator %
Water
57.7
Acrylate/Steareth-20/Methacrylate Copolymer (Acrysol ICs-1) H y s t a r CG G1 y c e r i ne 99% Propylene Glycol D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l 193 Germaben I 1 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Fragrance Jojoba O i l
2.0 10.3 23.9
2.0 2.3 1.o
0.7 q.s.
0.1
Procedure: Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n d e s c e n d i n g o r d e r i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l t a n k , w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n and m i x t i l c l e a r . Pack i n a p l a s t i c tube o r a p l a s t i c b o t t l e . Alcohol Free Styling Gel pH: 7.2 %
Water Propylene Glycol
83.2 12.0
Acrylate/Steareth-20/Methacrylate
Copolymer
( A c r y s o l ICs-1) Germaben I 1 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l 193 Fragrance Triethanolamine Jojoba O i l
2.0 1. o 0.5 0.5
0.7 0.1
Procedure: To t h e w a t e r add i n g r e d i e n t s 2 t h r u 5 p l u s 7 w i t h v a r y s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Next add i t e m 6 , a g i t a t e t i l c l e a r and package. SOURCE: F r a n k B . Ross C o . ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products
213
Guanidine No Base Relaxer A c r e a m / a c t i v a t o r system f o r a no base r e l a x e r . Ingredients:
%w/w F u n c t i o n
I.A c t i v a t o r S o l u t i o n : 1 . R . I . T . A . GC ( G u a n i d i n e C a r b o n a t e )
30.00 A c t i v a t o r 2 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 70 00 3. Color, Preservative q s . Preservative Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i n g r e d i e n t s a t 2OC w i t h adequate m i x i n g .
_________
I
11. No Base Cream: 1 . R i t a c h o l 5000 ( R . I . T . A . Blend) 1 2 . 0 0 Emu1 s i f i e r 2. Ritaderm ( R . I . T . A . Blend) 4 . 0 0 Emollient 3 . Petrolatum 10.00 Texture 4 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 w t . 1 6 . 0 0 Spread 5 . S u p e r s a t AWS 4 (PEG-20 Hydrogenated L a n o l i n ) 2.00 Moisture 6. Calcium Hydroxide, Dry 7.00 Relaxer 7 . Propylene Glycol 5 . 0 0 Moi s t u r e 8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 4 4 . 0 0 -------Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i n g r e d i e n t s 1-5 and h e a t t o 70C. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s 6-8 and h e a t t o 70C. Combine b o t h phases, m i x w e l l and c o o l w i t h m i x i n g t o 45C. Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and c o o l w i t h m i x i n g t o 40C. Package I a t 1 . 7 5 f 1 . o ~ .Package I 1 a t 7 . 5 0 fl. 02. Directions: M i x I i n 11, s t i r w e l l w i t h wooden s t i c k u n t i l c o l o r i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . Use as p e r normal r e l a x e r i n s t r u c t i o n s . Ref. No. 117-82
Potassium Relaxer P o t a s s i um H y d r o x i de r e 1 a x e r based on t h e e m u l s i f i c a t i on power o f R i t a c h o l 5000. Ingredients: Function 1 5 . 0 0 Emu 1s i f ie r 1 . R i t a c h o l 5000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 17.00 Emollient 2 . Mineral O i l 70 w t . 3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 2.00 Spread 4. Pe tr ola t um 1 7 . 5 0 Spread 5. Ritahydrox (Hydroxylated Lanolin) 0.50 S t a b i 1 it y 6 . Propylparaben 0.13 Preservative 7 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 2.00 Emulsifier 6 . 0 0 Humectant 8 . G l y c e r i n e @ 99% 9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 29.67 -____--__ IO. M e t h y l paraben 0.20 Preservative 10.00 Relaxer 1 1 . P o t a s s i u m H y d r o x i d e 13 25% Compoundi ng P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 - 7 i n s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r and h e a t t o 80C. Combine i t e m s 8-10 and h e a t t o 80C and add t o i t e m s 1-7. M i x i n v a r i a b l e speed m i x e r f o r 1 m i n u t e . Add w a t e r t o c o o l i n g pan and m i x u n t i l 65C. S l o w l y add KOH. Add i c e t o c o o l i n g pan and c o o l t o 25C. R e f . No. 118-176 SOURCE:
R . I . T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
214
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Brushing Lotion
u A.
Amihope LL TL-10 (PEG-20 S o r b i t a n M o n o l a u r a t e ) 1,3-Butanediol (Butylene G l y c o l ) Stearyl Alcohol Carbopol 941 (Carbomer 9 4 1 ) *
B . Water
C.
0.5 0.5 0.5 0.3 10.0 68.2
Ethanol
20.0
* 0 . 5 % w t Carbomer 941 aqueous s o l u t i o n ( n e u t r a l i z e d by NaOH) Procedure: 1 . Each c h e m i c a l c i t e d i n ( A ) i s weighed i n a g l a s s v e s s e l . Heat i t t o 60-70C and s t i r u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s homogeneous. 2 . Add a p r e v i o u s l y warmed w a t e r (9) [60-70C] t o t h e f o r m e r p r e p a r e d s o l u t i o n and c o o l i t t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h stirring. 3 . Add a 2 0 . 0 9 e t h a n o l (C) t o t h e c o o l e d s o l u t i o n w i t h s t i r r i n g . Note: T h i s h a i r b r u s h i n g l o t i o n has a good a n t i s t a t i c e f f e c t and g i v e s good c o m b a b i l i t y . Amihope LL decreased t h e f r i c t i o n between h a i r and comb o r b r u s h r e m a r k a b l y . Usage: Spray t h e h a i r b e f o r e b r u s h i n g . Hair Brushing Lotion
Wt% Amihope LL POE ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n M o n o l a u r a t e ( P o l y s o r b a t e 2 0 ) Ethanol
0.5 0.5 99.0
Procedure: M i x a l l components a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . Note: T h i s h a i r b r u s h i n g l o t i o n a l c o h o l i c t y p e has good a n t i s t a t i c e f f e c t and smoothness f o r t h e h a i r . Amihope LL a c t s as h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t i n s t e a d o f t h e cationic surfactant. Usage: Spray t h e h a i r b e f o r e b r u s h i n g .
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products
215
Hair Conditioner T h i s f o r m u l a i n c o r p o r a t e s a m i x t u r e o f p r o t e i n and e x t r a c t s t h e have a good a f f i n i t y f o r h a i r , e s p e c i a l l y when b l e a c h e d and damaged, l e a v i n g y o u r h a i r smooth, s i l k y and more manageable. Water Phase I: Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) Butylene G l y c o l (Hoechst) G1 y c e r i ne (Uni chema) C e l l o s i z e (Hercules) Methylparaben (Sutton) S o r b i t o l 70% Carbopol 940 2% Tris(hydroxymethy1)aminomethane
61.20% 3.00% 2.00% 0.30% 0.30% 2.00% 6.00%
0.60%
O i l Phase: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) Liquapar (Sutton) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel) Deo. Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) V i t a m i n E (BASF) V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) Propylparaben (Sutton) S t e a r i c A c i d (Unichem) Wheat Germ O i 1 ( L i p o ) Sweet Almond O i l ( L i p o ) Propylene Glycol Dioctanate ( I n o l e x )
5.00% 0.40% 2.00% 1 .OO% 0.10% 0.10%
0.20% 2.00% 1.20% 1.20% 2.50%
Water Phase 11: Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow)
5,00% 1 .OO%
A c t i ve Phase : Ginseng E x t r a c t ( A c t i v e O r g a n i c s ) Arnica E x t r a c t ( A c t i v e Organics) Wheat P r o t e i n (Vege-Tech) Fragrance
1 ,OO% 1.00% 0 70% 0.20% I
Procedure: D i s p e r s e t h e c e l l o s i z e i n t h e w a t e r and when d i s p e r s e d and added t h e r e s t o f phase. Heat t h e w a t e r phase I t o 8OC and t h e o i l phase t o 82C. S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o w a t e r phase I u n d e r m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 70C and add w a t e r phase 11. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and added t h e a c t i v e phase a t 35C. Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : O t h e r a c t i v e compounds and c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t s a r e e a s i l y introduced i n t o t h i s type o f formula.
SOURCE:
K o s t e r Keunen I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
216
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Conditioner with Moisturizers & Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Animal Protein Mackol 1618 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) M a c k e r n i um SDC-85 ( S t e a r a l k o n i urn C h l o r i d e ) P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Glycerin Mackamide AME-100 ( A c e t a m i d e MEA) Mineral O i l Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ) (Natural L i p i d Protein) M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) D e i o n i z e d Water, F r a g r a n c e , Dye qs t o
Wei Qht ,% 3.0 3.0 1.o 1.o 1. o 1. o 2.0 qs 100.0
pH: 3 . 5 - 4 . 5 V i s c o s i t y ( c p s 25 d e g r e e s C ) : 1500-3000 Procedure: 1 . M e l t waxes and o i l s t o 70 d e g r e e s C . 2 . S e p a r a t e l y h e a t w a t e r p l u s Mackpro NLP t o 70 d e g r e e s C. and add h o t w a t e r s o l u t i o n t o h o t o i l s and waxes. 3 . S t a r t s t i r r i n g v i g o r o u s l y f o r 10 m i n u t e s and t h e n s t a r t s l o w c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g and a t 40 d e g r e e s C . add M a c k s t a t DM t h e n f r a g r a n c e and dye and s l o w m i x i n g down c l o s e t o room temperature. 4 . S t o p m i x i n g a t 30 d e g r e e s C, 5 . A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . High Quality Conditioner Mackernium SDC-25 ( S t e a r a l k o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) Mackol 1618 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) B r i j 72 M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e q s t o Procedure: 1. Add components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 70 d e g r e e s C . 2 . W i t h m i l d a g i t a t i o n b l e n d u n t i l homogeneous. 3 . Cool t o 50 d e g r e e s C . and add dye and f r a g r a n c e . 4 . Cool and f i l l . SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . :
P e r s o n a l Care F o r m u l a r y
Wei q h t ,% 10.0 2.0 2.0 qs 100.0
Hair Care Products
217
Hair Conditioning Gel I n g r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: Part A: D e i o n i z e d Water Hydroxyethylcellulose H y d r o x y p r o p y l Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride C i t r i c Acid Methylparaben
% by W e i p h t
89.94 0.80 0.40 0.06 0.02
P a r t 8: Panthenol Sodi um P C A / A j idew N-50 P a r t i a l l y D e a c e t y l a t e d C h i t i n (1% S o l u t i o n ) / M a r i n e - D e w Polyquaternium-11 D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea
0.30 3.00 3.00 2.00 0.30
Procedure: Add p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Heat t o 75 d e g r e e s C e n t igrade. M i x u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . Cool t o 50 d e g r e e s C e n t i g r a d e . Add p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e g i v e n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 35 d e g r e e s C e n t i g r a d e . Appearance: C l e a r g e l pH: 4 . 5 - 5 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 7,000-10,000 (RVT #5 I3 lOrpm I3 25 d e g r e e s C) Hair Conditioner with CAE
Wt%
Inqredients: Phase A : Cetanol A m i t e r LGS-2 N i kkol MYS-55
3.0 2.0 1 .o
Phase B :
1.o 3.0 2.0 10.0 0.2 77.8
CAE A-SM
Prodew 100 Glycerin Methylparaben Water
V i s : 2500 c p s Specifications: pH: 5 . 0 Procedure: M i x i n g r e d i e n t s Phase A and h e a t t o 75-80 d e g r e e s C. M i x i n g r e d i e n t s Phase B and h e a t t o 75-80 d e g r e e s C . Add Phase A t o Phase 8 and m i x w i t h homomixer (1500 t o 2500 RPM) Cool t o 35 d e g r e e s C . T h i s h a i r c o n d i t i o n e r has good a n t i s t a t i c and c o n d i t i o n i n g effects F o r m u l a No. 1 CR-56-11 SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
.
.
218
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Conditioning Lotion
o/ow/w
Ingredients: A B r i j 721s Cetyl alcohol S t e a r y l a1 coho1 S t e a r a l konium B
Water,
1.30 0.90 0.60 0.50
deionized
96.70
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and ( B ) t o 62C. Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Cool w h i l e a g i t a t i n g t o 40C. Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r loss due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Clear Hair Conditioner Lotion Inqredients: A H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e , N a t r o s o l 250HR
40.00
B
1.40 58.60
Forestall Water, d e i o n i z e d
o
w
Procedure: M i x ( A ) i n advance by d i s p e r s i n g h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n w a t e r t o y i e l d a 3% s o l u t i o n . P r e p a r e s o l u t i o n ( B ) . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l homogeneous. Hair Conditioning Gel Inaredients: Mineral o i l A r 1a s o l v e 200 B r i j 93
A
B
W a t e r , d e i o n i zed Propylene g l y c o l Sorbo Forestal 1
11 . o o 20.00 6.00 49.60 5.00 7.00 1.40
Procedure: Heat ( A ) and ( B ) t o 9OC. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Cool t o 60C and add make-up w a t e r . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m and p o u r while s t i l l f l u i d .
SOURCE:
IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Formulations
Hair Care Products
219
Hair Cream
Wt% (0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) Isopropyl Myristate Squal ane N i k k o l WCB P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e (6300) Monostearate G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g Type) Polyoxyethylene (20) Cetyl Ether
38.0 3.0 0.5 0.5 0.1 4.1 2.9
(W) A j i d e w N - 5 0 Water Preservative
3.0 47.9 q.s.
Procedure: 1 . Heat ( 0 ) and (W) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . F i n i s h s t i r r i n g a t 40C. pH: 7 . 3 V i s c o s i t y : 900 c p s Hair Tonic
Wt% 2.7 0.3
( 0 ) P y r o t e r GPI-25 P y r o t e r CPI-40 E t h y l Alcohol (95%) L-Menthol Camphor Methylparaben Perfume
50.0
0.4 0.05 0.05 q.s.
4.0 42.5
(W) A j i d e w T-50 Water
Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e ( 0 ) and (W) s e p a r a t e l y a t room t e m p e r a t u r e t o b e c l e a r s o l u t ions. 2 . Add (W) t o ( 0 ) w i t h s t i r r i n g .
pH: 7 . 5 Viscosity:
5 cps
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA,
Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
220
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Dressing W/O Cold Process In q r e d i en t s : Phase A : C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l EM-90) Mineral O i l C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l 0 8839) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( I s o l an G I 34) C e t e a r y l Isononoanoate ( T e g o s o f t C I ) C e t y l O c t a n o a t e ( T e g o s o f t CO) Fragrance Phase B: Water P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Quaternium-80 ( A b i 1 Quat 3270) G1 y c e r i n Sodium C h l o r i d e Preservatives
2.0 7.3 3.0 1.o 5.0 1.o
1.5 0.8
Q.S. 72.9 3.0 0.5
1.2 0.8
Q.S.
Procedure: 1 . M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o g e t h e r . 2 . D i s s o l v e t h e Sodium C h l o r i d e i n t o t h e w a t e r . Add t h e G l y c e r i n and P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l . M i x u n t i l c l e a r . 3 . Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e s and Quaternium-80 t o t h e w a t e r phase. Mix u n t i l f u l l y dispersed. 4 . Add Phase B t o Phase A s l o w l y w i t h s o f t p r o p e l l e r m i x i n g . M a i n t a i n , a t a l l t i m e s , a creamy appearance. 5. Homogenize. Hair Styling Gel Inqredi ents: C y c l omethicone ( a n d D i m e t h i c o n o l ( a n d ) D i m e t h i cone ( A b i 1 OSW-12) Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV-20) B 8839) C y c l omethi cone ( A b i P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l H e x y l ene G1 y c o l Water G1 y c e r i n P r e s e r v a t ives P o l y a c r y l a m i d e ( a n d ) C13-14 I s o p a r a f f i n ( a n d ) Lau r e t h-7
?&&
22.20 3.00 3.00 42.00 4.55 22 .oo 1 .oo Q.S.
2.25
Procedure: Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l between a d d i t i o n s . When a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e combined, c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l v i s c o s i t y increases. F i n a l product i s a translucent, c o l o r l e s s gel. Formula BAM-5-43 SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products
221
Hair Gloss to Control Gel Concentrate Inqredi ents: Methacryloyl Ethyl Eetaine/Methacrylates Copolymer Water Dimethicone (Abi 1 350) Phenyl Trimethicone (Abil AV-20) Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol (and) Dimethicone (Abi 1 OSW-12) Propylene G1 ycol* Hexylene Glycol Preservatives Fragrance Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoperaffin (and) Laureth-7
%w/w 1.50 20.00 4.00 4.00 25.00
35.00 7.50 Q.S. Q.S.
3.00
Procedure: Blend the ingredients together in the order given with mixing. When all ingredients are combined, continue mixing until clear. Vi scosi ty wi 1 1 develop after mi xi ng. *Ethanol can be substituted for part of the propylene glycol if a lighter product is needed. Iridescent Hair Gel Concentrate
Innredients: Cyclomethicone (and) Di methi conol (and) Dime hi cone (Abi 1 OSW-12) Phenyl Trimethicone Abil AV-20) Propylene Glycol Hexyl ene G1 ycol Water Preservatives Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and Laureth-7
27.27 4.55 40.93 4.55 20.45 Q.S.
2.25
Procedure: Add the i ngredi ents i n order, mi xi ng we1 1 between additions. When all ingredients are combined, continue mixing until clear and iridescent. Formul at i on EAM-3-5 SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical C o r p . : Suggested Formulations
222
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Pomade H i g h l u s t e r h a i r pomade based on n a t u r a l S i m c h i n and Shebu. P a t i o n i c SSL and R i t a p a n DL p r o v i d e m o i s t u r i z a t i o n f o r h e a l t h y 1o o k i ng h a i r .
w
Ingredients: 1 . Mineral O i 1 90 w t . 5.00 2 . Simchin Refined (Jojoba O i l ) 2.00 3. P e t r o l a t u m 85.70 4. Shebu (Shea B u t t e r ) 2.00 5 . L a n o l i n USP ( L a n o l i n ) 2.00 6. R i t a p a n DL ( P a n t h e n o l DL) 0.50 7. P a t i o n i c SSL (Sodium S t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 2 . 4 0 0.20 8 . Fragrance 9. Glydant 0.20
-
Function Luster Emol 1 ie n t Hold Luster Hold Health Moisture Odor Preservative
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : B l e n d i t e m s 1-7 a t 70C. S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 40C and add remai n i ng iterns. F i 11 in t o c o n t a i n e r s . R e f . N o . 118-173 Hair Pomade Q u a l i t y h a i r pomade f o r m u l a t e d w i t h S i m c h i n and Shebu f o r l u s t e r . P a t i o n i c ISL provides m o i s t u r i z a t i o n . Inaredients: 1.50 1 . Ritawax ( L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 2. Mineral O i l 5.00 3. S i m c h i n R e f i n e d ( J o j o b a O i l ) 2.00 1 .oo 4 . Shebu (Shea B u t t e r ) 5 . P e t r o l atum 84.60 6. R i t a l a n ( L a n o l i n O i l ) 3.00 7. P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 2 . 5 0 8 . Glydant 0.20 9. Fragrance J e r g e n s Type R-30318 0.20
-
F u n c t ion Fee 1 Spread Luster Luster Spread Luster Moisture Preservative Odor
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : B l e n d i t e m s 1-7 and h e a t u n t i l c l e a r . Cool w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l 50C. Add p e r f u m e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . F i l l h o t w h i l e m i x i n g . R e f . N o . 118-178
SOURCE:
R.I.T.A.
Corp.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products
223
Hair Relaxer - Glycerine
G l y c e r i n e based h a i r r e l a x e r w h i c h m o i s t u r i z e s h a i r . E m u l s i o n s t a b i l i t y based on R i t a c h o l 2 0 0 0 .
%w/w Ingredients: 5.00 1 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 7.00 2 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 W t . 3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 0 7.50 4 . Petrolatum 0.50 5 . Ritahydrox (Hydroxylated Lanolin) 0.13 6 . Propylparaben 2.00 7 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 6.00 8. Glvcerine 29.67 9 , D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water 0.20 10.Methylparaben 10.00 11.Sodium H y d r o x i d e (25% S o l u t i o n )
F u n c t ion Emul s i f ie r Spread Feel Viscosity S t a b i 1 it y Preservative Emul s i f ie r Moisture
------- -
Preservative Re1 a x i n g
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 - 7 i n K i t c h e n A i d m i x e r bowl and h e a t t o 80C. I n s e p a r a t e b e a k e r h e a t i t e m s 8-10 t o 85C. Add t h i s w a t e r m i x t u r e t o o i l m i x t u r e and m i x a t l o w speed f o r 1 m i n u t e . Add c o l d w a t e r t o c o o l i n g pan and c o o l t o 65C. Add Sodium H y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n and m i x . Then add i c e t o c o o l i n g pan and c o o l t o 25C. Note: I n v e r s i o n w i l l occur d u r i n g m i x i n g . R e f . No. 118-168 Hair Relaxer - Glycol
%w/w F u n c t i o n
Inqredi ents : 1 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 2 . M i n e r a l O i l NF 3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 4 . Petrolatum 5. Ritahydrox (Hydroxylated Lanolin) 6 . Propylparaben 7 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 8 . Propylene Glycol 9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 10.Methylparaben 1 l . S o d i u m H y d r o x i d e (25% S o l u t i o n )
15.00 17.00 2.00 17.50 0.50 0.13 2.00 6.00 29.67 0.20 10.00
Emulsifier E m o l l ie n t Spread Spread S t a b i 1 it y Preservative Emul s i f i e r Humectant
--------
P r e s e r v a t iv e A c t iv e
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Weigh and m e l t i t e m s 1-7 a t 80C i n K i t c h e n A i d m i x e r b o w l . I n s e p a r a t e b e a k e r h e a t i t e m s 8-10 t o 85C. Add w a t e r phase t o o i l phase and m i x f o r one m i n u t e . Add c o o l i n g w a t e r t o m i x e r c o o l i n g pan and c o o l t o 65C. Add Sodium H y d r o x i d e , t h e n add i c e t o c o o l i n g pan, and t h e n c o o l t o 25C w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n . Note i n v e r s i o n d u r i n g c o o l i n g p ro c ess . R e f . No. 118-169 SOURCE: R . I . T . A .
C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
224
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Sculpting Cream T h i s cream g i v e s s h i n e t o t h e h a i r w i t h o u t b e i n g g r e a s y and makes h a i r easy t o s t y l e and manage. The Geahlene g i v e s v i s c o s i t y t o t h e cream and h e l p s h o l d h a i r i n p l a c e . I n c l u s i o n o f wheat p r o t e i n adds body and c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s . I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Weiqht% A D e i o n i z e d Water 62.86 1.oo Sol u b l e Wheat P r o t e i n / T r i t i s o l Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.80 Panthenol/DL-Panthenol 0.10 D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l I 1 0.30 PVP/PVP K-30 1.oo B Phenoxyethanol/Emeressence 1160 0.70 Methylparaben 0.20 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 5.00 C P o l y g l y c e r o l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone 5.00 C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) Hexyl L a u r a t e / A b i l WE-09 M i n e r a l O i l (and) H y d r o g e n a t e d B u t y l e n e / E t h y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer (and) H y d r o g e n a t e d E t h y l e n e / 20.00 P r o p y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer//Geahlene 750 Phenyl T r i m e t h i cone/Dow C o r n i ng 556 3.00 Fragrance 0.04 Procedure: M i x p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat p a r t B t o 60C w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , p r e m i x p a r t C . S l o w l y add p a r t s A and B t o p a r t C i n small increments w i t h h i g h shear m i x i n g u n t i l uniform. SOURCE: P e n r e c o : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n Hair Conditioner Part A: Dei o n i zed Water 90.60 Busan 1504 0.10 Panthenol 0.25 A l o e Vera 200X 0.05 D i s o d i urn EDTA 0.05 Cetearyl Alcohol & Cetearath-20 1-10 S t e a r y l A l c o h o l & C e t r i m o n i u m Bromide 5.00 Jojoba O i l 0.30 P a r t B: Acetamide MEA & L a c t a m i d e MEA 1 .oo Hydro1 yzed Wheat P r o t e i n & Wheat 01 ig o s a c c h a r i des 1 .25 0.30 Sodium PCA Procedure: Heat D I w a t e r t o 75C. Add Busan 1504 p r e s e r v a t i v e t o w a t e r and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 7 % and add r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r shown, e n s u r i n g t h a t each i s c o m p l e t e l y b l e n d e d i n t o b a t c h b e f o r e t h e a d d i t i o n o f t h e n e x t i n g r e d i e n t . M i x w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C. Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r shown and m i x u n t i l each i s d i s s o l v e d . Cool w h i l e m i x i n g t o 35C. SOURCE: Buckman L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Hair Care Products
225
Hair Straightener Formula: Phase A : Dei o n i zed Water P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l
56.00 2.00
Phase B : P o l awax P e t r o l a t u m ( P r o t o p e t 1s) Hydrogenated P o l y i s o b u t e n e
15.00 8.00 10.00
Phase C : Sodium H y d r o x i d e (25% S o l )
8.00
Phase D : P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l Urea ( a n d ) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben
1 .oo
Procedure: Combine and h e a t w a t e r phase A and o i l phase B s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C. A d d t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase w i t h r a p i d m i x i n g . Cool t o 40C b e f o r e a d d i n g C and D . Cool t o room temp. and package. Conditioning Styling Gel Percent Part A: Water, D . I . Merquat 100 P a r t B: 61 a n d o l Brij Arlatone G Propylene g l y c o l Glycerine P a r t C: Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e and c o l o r
q . s . t o 100
2.00 10.00 21 . o o 10.00 8.00 7.00 9.s. q.s.
Procedure: M i x P a r t A and B i n s e p a r a t e v e s s e l s , h e a t i n g each t o 9OC. Then, add Par B t o P a r t A w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . When t h e m i x t u r e i s un f o r m b e g i n t o c o o l , c o n t i n u i n g a g i t a t i o n . Add P a r t C a t 53C and c o n t i n u e c o o l i n g . Pour a t 50C. SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l a t u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formu a t ions
226
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
High Petrolatum Mousse
Aerosol O i l Phase: Protopet 1s Petrolatum Crodamol PMP Volpo 3 Water Phase A : Dei o n i zed Water Carbopol 941 10% Sodium H y d r o x i d e S o l u t i o n Water Phase 8 : G1 y c e r i ne V o l p o s-10 Germaben I 1
w
15.00 5.00 1.20 69.30 0.13 0.52
5.00 2.85 1.00
Procedure: Water Phase A : Charge a v e s s e l w i t h w a t e r and d u s t i n t h e carbomer. S t a r t h e a t i n g - t o 80C. When c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d , add t h e sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g . Water Phase 0 : Combine components i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l and m i x , h e a t t o 80C. When u n i f o r m add t o Water Phase A . O i l Phase: Combine a l l components o f t h e o i l phase, m i x and h e a t t o 80C. When u n i f o r m add t h e combined w a t e r phases s l o w l y w h i l e m i x n g . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . F i l l Ratio: C o n c e n t r a t e 4.0%, P r o p e l l a n t A-46 96%. Hot Oil Hair Treatment Mousse Percent Water 57.80 D i s o d i um EDTA 0.20 Carnation Mineral O i 1 10.00 Avocado O i l 5.00 Dimethicone 2.00 5.00 C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 (Promulgen D) Jojoba O i l 1 .oo Mink O i l 1.00 Castor O i l 5.00 O c t y l d o d e c y l S t e a r o y l S t e a r a t e ( C e r a p h y l 847) 10.00 Q u a t e r n i u m 26 ( C e r a p h y l 6 5 ) 2.00 1 .oo Germaben I 1 Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t t h e Germaben I 1 and h e a t t o 80C. Cool t o 50C and add t h e Germaben 1 1 . Cool t o room tempe r a t u r e and f i l l . 95% c o n c e n t r a t e / 5 % P r o p e l l a n t A-46. Appl ic a t i o n : A p p l y s m a l l amount t o wet h a i r . Cover h a i r w i t h h o t t o w e l f o r 15-20 m i n u t e s . R i n s e w e l l . SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formulations
Hair Care Products
227
Hot Oil Conditioner
Inaredients: C y c l o m e t h i cone ( a n d ) D i m e t h i c o n o l ( a n d ) D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l OSW 12) Dimethicone (100 c s t ) C y c l omethi cone Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 2 0 ) Fragrance
25.0 50.0 22.0 3.0 Q.S.
Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g . Hot Oil Super Conditioner Ingredients: Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol (and) Dimethicone ( A b i l OSW 12) D i m e t h i c o n e (100 c s t ) Cyclomethicone Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 2 0 ) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3474) Fragrance
25.0 42.0 30.0 2.5 0.5
Q.S.
Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g . Soft Glossing Spritz
I na r ed ie n t s : Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV-20) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l B 8839) D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l 1000) Dimethicone ( A b i l 100) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e (and) D i m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 OSW-12) Benzophenone-3 Fragrance Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r Caut ion
-
mixing well
T r a c e s o f w a t e r w i l l cause t u r b i d i t y .
SOURCE: Go dschmi d t Chemical Corp : Suggested Formul a t ions I
w 10.0 22.7 2.5 14.5 50.0 0.3 Q.S.
228
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Intensive Conditioning Pomade H i g h o i l , m o i s t u r i z i n g pomade f o r c o n t r o l o f d r y , o v e r w o r k e d hai r . Inqredients: 1 . P a r a f f i n (59-6OC) 2 . Petrolatum 3. Mineral O i l 4 . Forlan L ( R . I . T . A . Blend) 5 . R i t a c h o l ( R . I . T . A . Blend) 6. P a t l a c I L ( I s o s t e a r y l L a c t a t e ) 7 . F r a g r a n c e #163-478 8. Preservative
10.70 48.97 30.00 5.00 3.00 2.00 0.30 0.03
Function Control Moi s t u r e Moi s t u r e Shine Shine Repair Odor Preservative
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : M i x a l l i t e m s e x c e p t perfume a t 65C. Cool t o 40C and add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e . L e t s e t up i n p r o p e r c o n t a i n e r . R e f . No. 118-122 Light Oil Free Conditioner B a s i c c o n d i t i o n e r t o p r o v i d e good combing and c o n d i t i o n i n g t o a l l h a i r types. Ingredients: Function 9 3 . 6 7 __--------1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . Rita-STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 1.50 Conditioner 3 . R i t a p r o 165 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 2.00 S t a b i l i t y 2 . 0 0 R e - f a t t i ng 4. R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 5 . R i t a w a x ALA ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 0.50 Shine 6 . F r a g r a n c e - S a l o n #169-122 0 . 3 0 Odor 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 7 . Kathon CG Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat w a t e r t o 180F. I n s e p a r a t e b e a k e r h e a t i t e m s 2- 5 t o 165F. Add t o w a t e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 120F and add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e . R e f . No. 118-115
SOURCE: R . I . T . A .
Corp.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products
229
Intensive Hair Conditioner An i n t e n s i v e c o n d i t i o n e r w i t h n o u r i s h i n g o i l t o make h a i r more h e a l t h y . Inaredi ents: 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 84.52 0.50 2 . P o l y q u t a 3000 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 3. Methylparaben 0.15 4 . Rita-STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 1.50 5. Rita-CTAC
(Cetrimonium C h l o r i d e )
6. R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . Blend) 7 . Wheat Germ O i l 8 . Tocopherol 9. P r o p y l p a r a b e n 1 0 . K a t h o n CG 11. D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 12.Fragrance
function
----------
Anti-Static,Thickener Preservative Anti-Static, Conditioner 2.00 A n t i - S t a t i c , Condi t i o n e r 8.00 E m u l s i f i e r 1 . O O N o u r i s h i ng O i 1 - H e a l t h 0 . 2 0 -------0 . 1 0 P r e s e r v a t ive 0.03 Preservative 2.00 q . s .Odor
______-_
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e P o l y q u t a 3000 i n w a t e r . When d i s p e r s e d , add M e t h y l p a r a b e n . Heat t o 60C. Add i t e m s 4 and 5 and h e a t t o 70C. H e a t i t e m s 6 - 9 t o 70-75C and add w i t h m i x i n g . W h i l e m i x i n g , c o o l t o 45C and add i t e m s 10-12. R e f . No. 116-168 Salon Strength Hair Conditioner
B a l a n c e d c o n d i t i o n i n g and r e p a i r a r e a c h i e v e d t h r o u g h p r o p e r b a l a n c e o f P o l y q u t a and e m o l l i e n t a d d i t i v e s .
%w/wF u n c t i o n Inaredi ents: 2.00 R e - f a t t i n g 1 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2.00 Shine 2 . M i n e r a l O i l 9NF 0.50 R e - f a t t i n g 3 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1 . O O S h i n e , Combing Blend) 4. R i t a l a n C ( R . I . T . A . 2 . 0 0 Condi t i o n i ng 5 . Rita-CTAC ( C e t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 0 . 5 0 Combing 6 . P o l y q u t a 3000 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 88.23 7 . D i st i11ed/Dei o n i zed Water 2 . 0 0 Moi s t u r e 8 . Glycerine 0.50 M o i s t u r e 9 . S o r b i t o l (70% S o l n . ) 1 Q . S u p e r s a t AWS-4 (PEG-20 H y d r o g e n a t e d 1.00 S h i n e Lanol i n ) 0.02 P r e s e r v a t i v e 1 l . K a t h o n CG 0 . 2 5 Odor 12.Fragrance
----------
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat w a t e r t o 70C. Add i t e m 6 and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add i t e m s 8-10 w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-80C. Hear i t e m s 1-5 t o 65C. Add t o w a t e r m i x t u r e . Cool t o 50C and add p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e . Ref. No. 119-25 SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
230
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Leave-On Scalp & Hair Conditioner A dab o f l e a v e - o n s c a l p and h a i r c o n d i t i o n e r massaged i n t o t h e h a i r and s c a l p , w i 1 1 p r o v i d e c o n d i t i o n i n g and manageabi 1 it y t o the h a i r while providing moisturization o f the scalp. P h o s p h o l i p i d GLA w i l l h e l p m a i n t a i n a h e a l t h y s c a l p and minimi z e i t c h and s c a l i n g caused by e x c e s s i v e d r y n e s s . I t i s a l s o a d e l i v e r y system f o r gamma l i n o l e n i c a c i d , an e s s e n t i a l f a t t y acid f o r normalizing skin.
Wt.%
Inqredients: Water Hydroxyethyl C e l l u l o s e Glycol D i stearate Cetyl Alcohol Monaquat SL-5 Phosphol i p i d GLA Preservative
90.2 0.5 1.5 1.a 5.5 0.3 a.s.
Procedure: Charge w a t e r , s l o w l y add h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s p l u s p r e s e r v a t i v e and h e a t t o 65-7OC. S t i r c o o l t o 40C and add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , e t c . package. Appearance: W h i t e p e a r l e d l o t i o n V i s c o s i t y : 2500 C P pH: 6 . 5 Forrnul a F-653 Extra Hold Conditioning Mousse
I. Water Amp homer A m i nomethyl Propanol Dow C o r n i n g 929 E m u l s i o n Phosphol ip i d EFA SD3A A l c o h o l
% BY Weight 37 * 35 3.75 0.60 0.40
0.60 10.00
II.Hydroxyethy1 Cellulose Water
0.30 37.00
1II.Propellant
10.00
Procedure: P r e p a r e P a r t I and I 1 s e p a r a t e l y . To p r e p a r e P a r t 11, c a r e f u l l y s p r i n k l e h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t o w a t e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Heat may be a p p l i e d t o h e l p s o l u b i l i z a t i o n . B l e n d P a r t I 1 t o I and t h e n a e r o s o l i z e . Formula F-554
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products
231
Light Oil Free Conditioner L i g h t o i l f r e e w i t h a t o u c h o f f o a m i n g t o c l e a n l y condi t i o n h a i r t o t h e ends. Inqredi ents: ? ~ J & ’I 1 . G r i l l o t e n LSE-87K ( S u c r o s e Cocoate) 2.00 2 . G r i 1 l o t e n PSE 141G ( S u c r o s e Stearate) 4.00 3 . R i t a C e t e a r y l 70/30 ( C e t e a r y l 2.50 A1 coho1 ) 4. PEG-20 C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l 0.50 5. P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 1-00 1.50 6 . P o l y q u t a 400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 7. Glycerine 3.00 8. D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 85.17 9 . F r a a r a n c e - P e r t Tvee 0.30 - . 189-724 l 0 . K a t h o n CG 0.03 1 1 . C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l n . ) 9,s. Compounding Heat 1-4 add i t e m s 5 Cool t o 40C C i t r i c Acid R e f . No.
Function Conditioning, M i l d Cleaning, M i l d R e - f a t t ing Combing Humectant Combi ng, S t y 1 e Moisture
---_----
Odor Preservative pH C o n t r o l
Procedure: t o 70C. S e p a r a t e l y d i s p e r s e i t e m 6 i n w a t e r . Then and 7 . Heat t o 80-85C. Then add i t e m s 1-4 t o m i x t u r e . and add p e r f u m e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH w i t h t o pH 5 . 0 . 118-121 Aloe Vera Hair Conditioner (Light)
A l i g h t strength conditioner s p e c i a l l y formulated f o r normal h a i r . Adds sheen t o h a i r .
Inaredients: 1 D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water 94.47 2 . R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e Vera G e l ) 0.25 3 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2.00 1.00 4 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1.50 5 . Rita-STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e )
.
6 . Simchin Refined (Jojoba O i l ) 7 . Kathon CG 8 . Fragrance
Function
----
Shine Emul s i f ie r , T h i c k e n e r Emul s i f ie r , T h i c k e n e r Conditioner, Anti-static 0.75 C o n d i t i o n e r , Shine 0.03 Preservative q s .Odor
.
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat i t e m s 1 and 2 t o 70C. H e a t i t e m s 3 - 6 t o 65-70C and add w i t h s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l b a t c h r e a c h e s 40-45C. Add Kathon and F r a g r a n c e . R e f . No. 116-174
SOURCE: R.I.T.A, C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
232
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Low Cost Relaxer A l o w e r c o s t r e l a x e r w i t h reduced o i l phase m a t e r i a l s . Laneto-100 p r o v i d e s s c a l p p r o t e c t i o n f r o m i r r i t a t i o n .
Ingredients: 1 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . Blend) 2 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 3. R i t o l e t h - 1 0 (Oleth-10) 4. Petrolatum 5 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 w t . 6 . Laneto-100 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 7 . Propylene Glycol 8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 9 . Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 2 5 % S o l n . )
%w/w 15.00 1.oo 2.00 8.00 10.00 0.50 2.00 52.50 9.00
Function Emul s i f i e r Emul s i f ie r Emul s i f ie r Viscosity Spread Feel Moisture
--------
Relaxer
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1-5 and h e a t t o 60C. I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , h e a t i t e m s 6-8 and h e a t t o 60C. Add t o o i l phase and m i x a t l o w speed. Cool t o 45C and add Sodium H y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and f i l l t o j a r s a t 30C. R e f . N o . 120-26 Extra Stable Relaxer Very c o s t e f f i c i e n t , s t a b l e r e l a x e r f o r m u l a t i o n which i s easy t o p r o c e s s . Inqredients: 1 . R i t a c h o l 5000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 10.00 2 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 W t . 16.00 3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 0 4 . Petrolatum 17.00 5 . Ritahydrox (Hydroxylated Lanolin) 0.60 6 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 2.00 7 . R i t o x 5 2 (PEG-40 S t e a r a t e ) 1 .50 8. Glycerine 6.00 9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 34.70 0.20 10.Methylparaben 11.Sodium H y d r o x i d e (20% S o l u t i o n ) 10.00
Function Emulsifier Spread Feel Texture S t a b i 1 it y Emul s i f ie r S t a b i 1 it y Moisture
------- -
Preservative Re1 a x e r
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 - 7 i n o r b i t a l m i x e r a t 80C. Combine i t e m s 8-10 a t 80C and add t o o i l m i x t u r e . Cool t o 65C. Add Sodium H y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool i n i c e b a t h t o 25C. Homogenize i f necessary t o f u r t h e r improve s t a b i l i t y . R e f . No. 117-21A
SOURCE: R . I . T . A .
C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products
233
Medium Hold, 80% VOC Pump Hair Spray
D i a f o r m e r Z - A p r o v i d e s a medium h o l d i n t h i s c l e a r , w a t e r w h i t e s p r a y . I t a l s o reduces s t a t i c and i m p r o v e s m a n a g e a b i l i t y when t h e h a i r i s combed. I t s c l e a r , f l e x i b l e f i l m g i v e s a natural looking hold while o f f e r i n g excellent c u r l retention.
%w/w
Ingredients : Phase A : D i aformer Z-A Dow C o r n i n g 1 9 0 Monamide 716 SD 40 A l c o h o l Fragrance Dei o n i zed Water
5.00 0.20 0.10
75.00 0.10 Q.S.
Procedure: Add D i a f o r m e r Z - A t o a l c o h o l , m i x i n g w e l l . Add w a t e r w i t h m i x i n g . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e w i t h m i x i n g , P r o p e r t ies : Appearance:
C r y s t a l c l e a r , water w h i t e l i q u i d
F o r m u l a t i o n CHF-12 55% VOC Pump Hair Spray
T h i s 55% VOC h a i r s p r a y i n c o r p o r a t e s D i a f o r m e r 2 - 4 0 0 . T h i s deodorized polymer i s w e l l s u i t e d t o l i g h t l y f r a g r a n c e d p r o d u c t s . I t p r o v i d e s a medium h o l d i n t h i s c r y s t a l c l e a r , w a t e r w h i t e s p r a y . V e l s a n P8-3 a c t s a a non-greasy s u p e r f a t t i n g agent. Inaredi entsr Phase A : D i a f o r m e r 2-400 SD 40 A l c o h o l V e l s a n P8-3 Fragrance D e i o n i z e d Water
4.00 40.00 0.50 0.05 Q.S.
Procedure: Add D i a f o r m e r 2-400 t o a l c o h o l , m i x i n g we1 1 . Add w a t e r w i t h m i x i n g . A d d r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e w i t h m i x i n g . P r o p e r t ie s : Appearance:
C r y s t a l c l e a r , water w h i t e l i q u i d
F o r m u l a t i o n CHF-14
SOURCE:
Sandoz Cherni c a l s Corp. : Suggested Formul a t i ons
234
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Medium Strength Hair Conditioner C o n d i t i o n i n g d e s i g n e d t o p r o v i d e n o u r i s h i n g and combing b e n e f i t s w h i l e l e a v i n g a c l e a n f e e l i n t h e wet mode due t o D i m e t h y l Quat. Ingredients: Function 1 . Rita-SBC ( S t e a r a l k o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 1.14 Conditioner 2 . Rita-CTAC ( C e t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 0.48 Conditioner 3 . Rita-CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0.85 R e - f a t t i n g 4 . C i t r i c A c i d @ 100% 0 . 0 9 pH C o n t r o l 5 . D i m e t h y l S t e a r a m i n e (Adogen MA-108) 0.13 C o n d i t i o n e r 94.81 6 . D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water 7 . Promois WK-HQ ( H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r imoni urn Hydro1 y z e d K e r a t in ) 0 . 0 5 Body 8 . R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e Vera G e l ) 0 . 0 5 Body 9 . Ritapan DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 0 . 0 5 Body 0 . 5 0 Clean Feel 10.Propylene G l y c o l 11 H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l ose ( N a t r o s o l 250 HHR) 1.00 V i scosi t y 1 2 . K a t h o n CG 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 13.Dow C o r n i n g 2-7224 0 . 4 0 Combing 14.Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d 0 . 1 7 Combing 0 . 2 5 Odor 15. F r a g r a n c e Compounding P r o c e d u r e : T o 15% o f t o t a l w a t e r a t 65C add s e p a r a t e l y i t e m s 1 - 4 . Heat t o 70C, add i t e m 5 and m i x 20 m i n . Add a n o t h e r 10% o f t h e w a t e r a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g 20 m i n . To r e m a i n i n g 75% o f w a t e r add i t e m s 7,8 and 9 a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . Add i t e m 10 and s l o w l y s i f t i n i t e m 1 1 . A g i t a t e 15 m i n . w h i l e h e a t i n g b a t c h t o 35C. When b a t c h t h i c k e n s , i n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n f o r up t o 60 m i n . u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add i t e m s 1 2 , 1 3 and 14, c o n t i n u e m i x i n g . Then add q u a t e r n a r y / f a t t y a l c o h o l phase ( i t e m s 1 - 6 ) and f r a g r a n c e . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . R e f . No. 116-1618
---------
.
Medium Hair Conditioner Humectant c o n d i t i o n e r t o m a x i m i z e combing f r o m s i l i c o n e and body f r o m g l y c e r i n e . Inqredients: Function 1 . R i ta-STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i um Chloride) 2.40 C o n d i t i o n e r 1.00 Control 2 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 3 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 5.00 Coating 4. R i t a c e t i (Cetyl Esters) 2 . 0 0 Combing 5 . Ritacet-PO (Ceteareth-20) 0.50 E m u l s i f i e r 1.00 Humectancy 6. G l y c e r i n e 7 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 85.77 8 . Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d 2 . 0 0 Combing, S h i n e 9. Fragrance F i n e s s e Type 0 . 3 0 Odor 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 1 0 . K a t h o n CG Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat i t e m s 1-5 t o 70C. I n s e p a r a t e b e a k e r h e a t i t e m s 6 and 7 t o 75C. Add 1-5 t o w a t e r . M i x and c o o l t o 50C. Add s i l i c o n e and m i x . Add p e r f u m e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . R e f . No. 118-117 SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
--------
-
Hair Care Products
235
Moisture Balance Conditioner w/Cropeptide W A l t h o u g h t h i s easy-to-make c o n d i t i o n e r c o n t a i n s few i n g r e d ients, it delivers b i g conditioning benefits. Ingredients: Part A: I n c r o q u a t CR Conc. ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l O i l (and) Stearalkonium C h l o r i d e )
( a n d ) PEG-40 C a s t o r
P a r t B: Dei o n i zed Water
6.00 92.70
Part C: C r o p e p t i d e W ( H y d r o l y z e d Wheat P r o t e i n ( a n d ) Wheat 01 ig o s a c c a r i d e s ) M e t h y l paraben P r o p y l paraben
1.00 0.20 0.10
Procedure: Heat P a r t A and P a r t B s e p a r a t e l y t o 70-75C w i t h m i x i n g . A t 70-75C, add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l temperature. pH: 4 . O t - 0 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 2 , O O O t - 1 0 % (C25C) N . A . T . C . Approved SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n HP-158 "Leave-On" Conditioner Concentrate
1. I n c o r p o r a t e f r a g r a n c e . Take an e x a c t w e i g h t o f C o n c e n t r a t e and add e x a c t w e i g h t o f f r a g r a n c e ( d e p e n d i n g on l e v e l a f t e r d i l u t i o n . Blend t o g e t h e r w i t h thorough m i x i n g . N o t e : C o n c e n t r a t e c o n t a i n s o n l y enough p r e s e r v a t i v e t o p r o t e c t t h e c o n c e n t r a t e . P l e a s e add a d d i t i o n a l p r e s e r v a t i v e t o product d i l u t e d s o l u t i o n .
2. D i l u t e t h e above c o n c e n t r a t e d b l e n d w i t h 7 p a r t s o f d e i o n i z e d water f o r a f i r m s e t , o r w i t h 9 p a r t s deionized water f o r regular s e t t i n g product. 3 . A p p l y f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t t o shampooed and t o w e l d r i e d h a i r . Don't rinse. Style h a i r .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
236
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Natural Lipid Conditioner for Professional Salon M a c k e r n i um SDC-85 ( S t e a r a l k o n i um C h l o r i d e ) Mackalene NDC ( O l e a m i d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l a m i n e (Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine L a c t a t e (and) P a l m i t a m i d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l a m i n e L a c t a t e (and) Palmi t o l eami d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l ami ne L a c t a t e ) Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ) (Natural L i p i d Protein) Mackol 1618 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) Steareth-2 M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) W a t e r , F r a g r a n c e , Dye qs t o
Weight,% 1.5
l
.o
2.0 1.8 1. E qs
100.0
Procedure: 1 . Add f i r s t f i v e components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 70 d e g r e e s C . 2 . Cool t o 45 d e g r e e s C . and add r e m a i n i n g components. 3 . Cool and f i l l . Mild Opaque Conditioner Mackalene 326 ( S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l Cetyl Alcohol Phosphoric A c i d Sodium C h l o r i d e M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e , q s t o
Morpholine Lactate)
Weight,% 8.0 1.8 0.6 0.3 qs 100.0
Procedure: 1 . Add f i r s t f o u r components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 70 d e g r e e s C . 2 . W i t h s t i r r i n g , c o o l and add dye, p r e s e r v a t i v e and perfume a t 40 d e g r e e s C .
Mild Pearl Conditioner Mackalene 326 ( S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l PEG 400 D i s t e a r a t e Sodium C h l o r i d e M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, dye, f r a g r a n c e , q s t o
Morpholine Lactate)
Wei a h t % 7.0 0.5 0.5 qs 100.0
Procedure: 1 . Add t h e f i r s t t h r e e components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 65 degrees C. 2 . W i t h c o n t i n u o u s s t i r r i n g , c o o l t o 40 d e g r e e s C . and add dye, p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . :
P e r s o n a l Care F o r m u l a r y
Hair Care Products
237
Non-Aerosol Hair Spray with Protein A n o n - a e r o s o l h a i r s p r a y based on p r o t e i n ( P r o m o i s WK-HQ) and R i t a p a n D L . E x t r a sheen i s d e r i v e d f r o m R i t a l a n AWS.
% & Inaredients: 1 . SD A l c o h o l - 40 66.70 7.00 2 . E t h y l E s t e r o f PVM/MA-Copolymer 3 . AMP-95 0.20 4. Dimethicone Copolyol 0.50 5 . R i t a l a n AWS (PPG-12-PEG-65 L a n o l i n O i l ) 0 . 2 0 6 . Fragrance 0.10 7 . Promois WK-HQ ( P r o t e i n ) 0.20 8 . R i t a p a n DL 0.10 9 . D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 25.00
F u n c t ion S o l u b i 1 it y Hold Neutralization Sheen Sheen Odor Repai r Moisture
----- ---
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m 2 t o a l c o h o l and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add AMP and m i x w e l l . Add i t e m s 4-6 i n o r d e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . P r e - m i x i t e m s 7-9 and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . SOURCE:
R.I.T.A. Corc.:
R e f . No. 1 2 0 - 2 4
Hair Rinse for Stressed Hair
% 4,O
Component: I. Emulgade 1 0 0 0 N i Eutanol G Cocopherol 1250
2,o 2;o
11. D e h y q u a r t A Water, d e m i n . / P r e s e r v a t i o n
pH-Value: a p p r o x . 4 V i s c o s i t y mPas, a p p r o x . :
4,O 88,O
10.000
Preparation i n t h e Laboratory: M e l t phase I a t 80-850. Heat phase I 1 t o 80-85C and s t i r i n t o Phase I.S t i r a t t h i s t e m p e r a t u r e f o r 5 m i n u t e s . Cool down t o 40C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e a n d , i f n e c e s s a r y , h e a t s e n s i t i v e a d d i t i v e s . Cool down t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . A d j u s t t h e pH v a l u e e.g. with c i t r i c acid. SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: F o r m u l a t i o n No. 90/322/7
238
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pearly Lotion Conditioner Mackalene 316 ( S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l a m i n e L a c t a t e ) PEG 400 D i s t e a r a t e Sodium S u l f a t e Propylene Glycol M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o
Wei q h t ,% 7.0 0.5 0.5 2.0 qs 100.0
Procedure: 1. Add f i r s t f o u r components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 65 degrees C. 2 . W i t h m i l d a g i t a t i o n c o o l t o 45 degrees C . and add r e m a i n i n g components. 3 . Cool and f i l l . Protein Lotion Conditioner Macki ne 301 ( S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l a m i n e ) Mackol 16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) L a c t i c A c i d 88% Mackpro NLP ( Q u a t e r n i un-79 H y d r o l y z e d Animal (Natural L i p i d Protein) Sodium C h l o r i d e M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, F r a g r a n c e , Dye qs t o
Wei q h t I % 1.5 2.5 0.7 Protein)
1.5 0.5
qs 100.0
Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e sodium c h l o r i d e i n w a t e r . 2 . Add f i r s t f o u r components and h e a t t o 70 degrees C . 3 . B1 end u n t i 1 homogenous. 4 . Cool t o 45 degrees C . and add r e m a i n i n g components. 5 . Cool and f i l l . Spray Leave-On Conditioner
Weiqht,% Mackpro NLP ( Q u a t e r n i um-79 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ) (Natural L i p i d Protein) Mackalene 426 ( I s o s t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l M o r p h o l i n e L a c t a t e ) M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o Procedures: 1 . Add components t o w a t e r . 2 . Heat t o 40 degrees C . and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : P e r s o n a l Care F o r m u l a r y
1.o 3.0 qs
100,o
Hair Care Products
239
Pump Gel Type Spritz A g e l s e t t i n g l o t i o n w h i c h can be d i s p e n s e d f r o m a pump. C o n t a i n s S e t t i n g a g e n t s , a n t i - s t a t s and R i t a p a n D L f o r r e p a i r and l u s t e r .
Inaredients: 1 . D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 2. Propylene G l y c o l 3 . R i t a p a n DL ( P a n t h e n o l DL) 4. R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e G e l ) 5 . P o l y q u t a 3000 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 6 . R i t a b a t e 2 0 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 20) 7. H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e 8 . R i t a CTAC ( C e t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 9 . Fraarance l 0 . K a t h o n CG Compoun Comb until c uniform and m i x Ref.
w ______--Function
88.87 5.00 1 .oo 1-00 2.00 1 .oo 1 .oo 0.50 0.20 0.03
Humectant Repair Repai r S e t , A n t i -. S t a t S t a b i 1 it y Gel 1 ing Condi t i on ng Odor P r e s e r v a t ve
ing P r o c e d u r e : ne i t e m s 3 and 4 w i t h t h e w a t e r and h e a t t o 60C M X e a r . D i s p e r s e i t e m s 5 and 7 i n t o b a t c h . M i x u n t 1 ( a b o u t 30 m i n u t e s ) . Then add r e m a i n i n a i t e m s i n o r d e r well N O . 118-180 I
Moisturizing Hair Styling Gel I n a r e d ient 1 . D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer 940) 3. Glycerine 4 . R i t a p a n DL ( P a n t h e n o l d l ) 5 . E t h a n o l @ 95% 6 . L a n e t o 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 7 . R i t a p h e n o n e 3 (Benzophenone-3) 8 . T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 9. PPG-12-Buteth-16 1O.PVP 11. F r a g r a n c e 12.DMDM H y d a n t o i n 13. T r i e t h a n o l ami ne @ 99% 1 4 . D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 1 5 . R i t a l a s t i n EL 30
w
58.20
0.60 10.00 0.20 10.00 5.00 0.10 0.10 5.00 1.50 0.10 0.20
0.60 5.40 3.00
F u n c t ion
_-__--_--Gel 1 ing Conditioning Moi s t u r i z a t i o n Clarity Shine UV A b s o r b e r C1 a r i t y Set Set Odor Preservative PH
-----_--
Moisture
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 + 3 and m i x . Add i t e m 2 s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l u n i f o r m . S e p a r a t e l y combine i t e m s 4-12 and i t e m 15. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t o A c r i t a m e r m i x t u r e . P r e m i x 13 & 14 f o r 10% TEA s o l u t i o n . Add t o m i x t u r e and a g i t a t e d u r i n g t h i c k e n i n g . R e f . No. 118-142
SOURCE: R . I . T , A .
Corp.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
240
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pump Spray Hair Detangler H e a l t h y s h i n e d e t a n g l i n g s p r a y based on c a t i o n i c s
%w/w F u n c t i o n Inqredients: 2.00 Cationic 1 . Rita-CTAC ( C e t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 8 8 . 5 0 -------2 . D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water 1.00 S l i o 3 . D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l 8 88183) 4 . S u p e r s a t AWS-4 (PEG-20 H y d r o g e n a t e d Lanol i n ) 1.00 Feel 5 . G l y c e r i n e 13 99% 4.00 M o i s t u r e 2 . 0 0 Moi s t u r e 6 . Propylene Glycol 1.OO Health 7 . R i t a p a n DL ( P a n t h e n o l DL) 0.15 Shine 8 . Simchin Refined (Jojoba O i l ) 0.20 Preservative 9. Glydant 0 . 1 5 Odor 1 0 . F r a g r a n c e - P e r t P l u s Type #189-724 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat w a t e r t o 87C and add i t e m 4 . M i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t p r e s e r v a t i v e and p e r f u m e . Cool t o 46C and add i t e m s 9 and 1 0 . R e f . No. 118-171 Hot Oil Treatment H o t o i l t r e a t m e n t f o r deeo o e n e t r a t i o n o f t h e h a i r s h a f t . Rejuvenates h a i r t o i t s h e a l t h y s t a t e Inaredients: 1 . M i n e r a l O i 1 65/70 2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l Lactylate) 3 . Lauryl M y r i s t y l Alcohol 4 . Phenoxyethanol 5 . Shebu R e f i n e d (Shea B u t t e r ) 6. L a n o l i n - X - t r a D e o d o r i z e d ( L a n o l i n ) 7 . F r a g r a n c e - F l o r a l #169-120 8 . Glydant Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 - 6 and h e a t t o 165F Add p e r f u m e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . R e f . No. 118-119
SOURCE:
R.I.T.A, C o r p . :
%w/w F u n c t i o n 89.00 M o i s t u r e , Shine Substantive Coupling UV P r o t e c i o n Emol 1 ie n t Repair 0 . 3 0 Odor 0 . 2 0 Preservat ve 5.00 2.00 1.OO 0.50 2.00
M i x and c o o l t o 120F.
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products
241
Ringing Gel C l e a r r i n g i n g g e l w i t h m o i s t u r i z a t i o n f r o m P a t i o n i c I S L and gel s t r u c t u r e from Supersat.
w/w Ingredients: 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 42.40 2. Glycerine 15.00 12.00 3 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 s u s . 4 . R i t o l e t h 5 (Oleth-5) 10.00 5 . S u p e r s a t AWS 4 (Peg-20 H y d r o g e n a t e d L a n o l i n ) 1 7 . 0 0 6 . P a t i o n i c ISL (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 1.OO 7 . 2-Phenoxyethanol 2.00 8. Germall I 1 0.40 9 . Fragrance 0.20
Function
___--_____
Feel Coat Emulsifier Gel Mildness Sol u b i 1 i z e r P r e s e r v a t iv e Odor
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat i t e m s 1 and 2 t o 165F. Heat i t e m s 3-7 t o 165F. Add i t e m s 3-7 t o i t e m s 1 and 2 . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Pour i n j a r s a t 135F. R e f . No. 118-160 Micro Emulsion Ringing Gel Shebu WS r i n g i n g m i c r o e m u l s i o n g e l . I d e a l f o r h a i r d r e s s i n g w i t h m i l d n e s s and s h i n e . Ingredients: 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 53.70 2. Glycerine 10.00 12.00 3. Mineral O i l , L i g h t 4 . R i t o l e t h 5 (Oleth-5) 10.00 5 . S u p e r s a t AWS 4 (PEG-20 H y d r o g e n a t e d L a n o l i n ) 1 2 . 0 0 1.OO 6 . P a t i o n i c I S L ( S o d i um I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 7 . Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) 1.OO 8 . G1 y d a n t (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) 0.20 9 . Fragrance 0.10
_F_u_n_c_t_i o_ _n_ _ _ _ Feel Shine E m u l s i f ie r Ring\Gel M i 1dness Shine Preservative Odor
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat i t e m s 1 , 2 and 7 t o 175F. Combine i t e m s 3 , 4 , 5 and 6 and h e a t t o 175F. Add t h i s t o t h e f i r s t phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . ( N o t e : p r o c e s s may need an add-back o f 3-5% w a t e r ) . Cool t o 130F o r u n t i l t h i c k e n i n g o c c u r s . Add i t e m s 8 and 9 . Add back w a t e r l o s s . F i l l a t t h i s t e m p e r a t u r e i n t o j a r s and c o v e r . R e f . N o . 118-162
SOURCE:
R.I.T.A.
Corp.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
242
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Salon Type Hair Conditioner
S t a t e o f t h e a r t p r o t e i n / p a n t h e n o l based h a i r c o n d i t i o n e r designed f o r achievement o f s a l o n t y p e performance. %w/wF u n c t i o n Innredients: 0.85 Clean Feel 1 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . Rita-STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 0.44 C o n d i t i o n e r 3 . Rita-CTAC ( C e t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 0.48 Conditioner 0 . 0 9 pH C o n t r o l 4. C i t r i c A c i d I3 100% 5 . D i m e t h y l S t e a r a m i n e (Adogen MA-108) 0.13 C o n d i t i o n e r 6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 95.51 7 . P r o m o i s WK-HQ ( H y d r o x_y D . r o.p-v l t r i m o n ium Hydro1 y z e d K e r a t in ) 0 . 0 5 Body 8 . R i t a l o e ZOOM ( A l o e Vera G e l ) 0 . 0 5 Body 9 . R i t a p a n DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 0 . 0 5 Body 10.Propylene Glycol 0 . 5 0 C l e a n Fee 11.Hydroxyethyl C e l l u l o s e (Natrosol I- 0 0 V i s c o s i t y 250 HHR) 1 2 . K a t h o n CG 0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t ve 0 . 4 0 Combing 13.Dow C o r n i n g 2-7224 14.Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d 0 . 1 7 Combing 15.Fragrance 0 . 2 5 Odor Compoundi ng P r o c e d u r e : To 15% o f t o t a l w a t e r a t 65C add s e p a r a t e l y i t e m s 1-4. Heat t o 70C, add i t e m 5 and m i x 20 m i n . Add a n o t h e r 10% o f t h e w a t e r a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g 20 min. To r e m a i n i n g 75% o f w a t e r add i t e m s 7,8 and 9 a t room tempe r a t u r e . Add i t e m 10 and s l o w l y s i f t i n i t e m 11. A g i t a t e 15 m i n . w h i l e h e a t i n g b a t c h s l i g h t l y t o 35C. When b a t c h t h i c k e n s , i n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n f o r up t o 60 m i n . u n t i l u n i f o r m . R e f . No. 116-181A
______---_
Salon Type Hair Conditioner Salon t y p e h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g i s achieved w i t h t h e h e l p of Shebu and an a l l - n a t u r a l c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t . unction w FEmu1 s i f ie r
Inaredients: 5.00 1 . R i t a c h o l 1000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 0.50 2 . Shebu R e f i n e d (Shea B u t t e r ) 3. R i t o l e t h - 1 0 (Oleth-10) 0.50 2.00 4. Rita-CTAC ( C e t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 3.00 5. G l y c e r i n e 6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 88.67 7 . F r a g r a n c e - S i 1 k i e n c e Type #169-120 0.30 8 . Kathon CG 0.03
N a t u r a l Shine Appl ic a t i on Conditioning Moisture
--------
Odor Preservative
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1-4 and h e a t t o 70C. I n a s e p a r a t e b e a k e r combine i t e m s 5 and 6 and h e a t t o 75-80C. Add i t e m s 1-4 t o w a t e r m i x t u r e and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 40C and add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . R e f . No. 118-120 SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products
243
Silicone Hair Gel S i l i c o n e based s e t t i n g g e l . H i g h g l y c e r i n e a p p r o p r i a t e f o r c u r l a c t i v a t i o n . R i t a p a n D1 f o r humectancy. Innredients: 1 D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer 940) 3. G l y c e r i n e 4. Propylene Glycol 5 . Dimethicone Copolyol 6 . R i t a p a n DL ( P a n t h e n o l d l ) 7 . L a n e t o 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 8. Fragrance 9 . G1 y d a n t (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) 1O.TEA @ 99%
.
3
81.10 0.80 10.00 5.00 1 .oo 0.80 0.50 0.10 0.20 0.80
_F u_n-c _t i o_n_ _ _ _ _ Gelling Curl Emol 1 ie n t Shine Moisture Shine Odor Preservative PH
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e s l o w l y i t e m 2 i n t o 90% o f t h e w a t e r w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Premix i t e m s 4 , 5 , 6 and 7 w i t h a g i t a t i o n . P r e m i x i t e m s 8 and 9 i n t o i t e m 3. Combine i t e m 10 w i t h r e m a i n i n g 10% o f t h e w a t e r . N e u t r a l i z e A c r i t a m e r s o l u t i o n . When c o m p l e t e add o t h e r p r e m i x e s and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . R e f . No. 118-156
Shebu Hair Setting Gel Water based s e t t i n g g e l w i t h Shebu. The s e t t i n g a g e n t i s p l a s t i c i z e d w i t h Supersat f o r s o f t e r h o l d . Inaredients: 1 D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 2. A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer 9 4 0 ) 3. D i s t i 1 1ed/Dei o n i zed Water 4. G l y c e r i n e 5. Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) 6. S u p e r s a t AWS 4 (Peg 20-Hydrogenated 7 . PVP K-30 8. R i t a p a n DL ( P a n t h e n o l d l ) 9 . TEA @ 50% 10,Fragrance 11 DMDM H y d a n t o i n
Function 60.80 0.70 G e l l i n g
.
--__----__
26.50 4.00 3.00 Lanolin) 1.00 2.00
.
0.20 1.40 0.20 0.20
__________
Moi s t u r e Luster Plasticizer Set Moi s t u r e pH Odor Preservative
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Slowly disperse Acritamer i n t o i t e m 1 . A g i t a t e u n t i l f u l l y h y d r a t e d . Combine i t e m s 3-9 u n t i l u n i f o r m ( s l i g h t h e a t i n g may be n e c e s s a r y ) . Add t h i s t o t h e A c r i t a m e r m i x t u r e , add i t e m s 10 and 11, and a g i t a t e u n t i l u n i f o r m . R e f . No. 118-158 SOURCE:
R.I.T.A.
Corp.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
244
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Stiff Holding Hairspray
I nq r ed ie n t s : Amphomer AMP C r o t e i n AD Dow C o r n i n g 556 Citroflex 2 O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA SDA 40 P r o p e l 1a n t A-46
P a r t s b y Wei q h t 4.75
0.80 0.20 0.15 0.20 0.05 6.85 30.00
Preparation: D i s s o l v e AMP i n t h e a n h y d r o u s a l c o h o l . Wh l e m a i n t a n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add Amphomer t o t h e v o r t e x . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e . Add b a l a n c e o f i n g r e d i e n t s . When c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d and homogeneous, f i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e Charge p r o p e l l a n t . P r e c i s i on Speci f ic a t i o n s : A c t u a t o r : 21-8173 0.0201' MB Body: 07-3415 0 . 0 6 2 " x 0 . 0 2 0 " VT Stem: 0.4-1230 0 . 0 2 0 " CUP: 12-8700 Stem G a s k e t : 05-0310 Buna D i p Tube: 09-3530 0 . 0 6 0 " S p r i n g : 06-6010 SS Formula 5887-80-4 Aerosol Shaping Hairspray M a t e r ia1 s : Versatyl-42 AMP-95 DC-193 S i 1 icone DC-556 S i 1 icone G1 y c e r i ne C i t r o f 1ex-2 Monamid 716 Sunarome OMC Fragrance E t h a n o l , Anhydrous P r o p e l l a n t A-46
Parts/Wei a h t 3.75 0.96 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.20 0.05
Q.S 64.64 30.00
Valve:
Precision . 0 1 8 " stem ,018 x .013" body .0181' FT A c t u a t o r Spray R a t e : 0 . 5 6 g / s e c Preparation: Add a l c o h o l t o t h e t a n k . W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add V e r s a t y l - 4 2 t o t h e v o r t e x . Add AMP-95 and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f t h e c o n c e n t r a t e . When c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d and homogeneous, f i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e t o t h e c a n . Charge p r o p e l l a n t . Formula 6258-07
SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products
245
Styling/Conditioning Mousse
%w/w Ingredients: 1.40 Forestall 0.50 B r i j 721 0.10 D o w C o r n i n g 929 E m u l s i o n 78-00 W a t e r , d e i o n i zed 5.00 B G a f f i x VC-713 10.00 SD A l c o h o l 40 5.00 C H y d r o c a r b o n P r o p e l l a n t A-46 Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 40C. Add ( A ) t o ( E ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Pack i n s u i t a b l e a e r o s o l c o n t a i n e r s and p r e s s u r i z e w i t h (C) a t r o o m t e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a PC 8216
A
Clear Gel Grooming AgentL? & Conditioner
Y U Ingredients: 14.10 M i n e r a l o i l , M a r c o l 70 15.50 B r i j 97 15.50 Arlatone G 0.10 A t l a s G-3570 8.60 Propylene g l y c o l 6.90 Sorbo 39.30 E Water, d e i o n i zed Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 9OC and ( E ) t o 95C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) w i t h m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g . Remove f r o m h e a t and c o n t i n u e t o s t i r as t h e m i x t u r e c o o l s . When t h e m i x t u r e t u r n s c l e a r ( a b o u t 65C) p o u r i n t o t u b e s or jars.
A
Hair Straightening Cream
I na r ed ie n t s :
%w/w
20.00 G l y c e r o l monostearate 2.00 B r i j 35 5.00 Stearyl alcohol 5.00 Mineral o i l 1.oo B Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e 40.00 Water *Preservative 3.50 C Sodium h y d r o x i d e 23.50 Water D *Perfume * q . s . these ingredients. Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and ( E ) t o 62C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c o o l . Add ( C ) . M i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add (D). F o r m u l a HC-17
A
SOURCE:
I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
246
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Styling Mousse X22176-106 (Hydroalcoholic) Concentrate: D i s t i l l e d water Eastman AQ 55s p o l y m e r Myvatex T e x t u r e L i t e e m u l s i f i e r Monamid 150 ADD Myvatex 60 e m u l s i f i e r SDA-40C a l c o h o l Fragrance C i t r i c acid *q. s . = q u a n t i t y s u f f i c i e n t
q.s.*
t o 100 8.0 2.0 1.o 0.3 20.0 q. s . q.s.*
*
Procedure: 1 . Heat Eastman AQ 55s and w a t e r t o 80-85C w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l t h e polymer i s completely dispersed i n t h e water. 2 . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . 3 . S l o w l y add Myvatex T e x t u r e L i t e w i t h h i g h - s p e e d a g i t a t i o n . Care s h o u l d be t a k e n when m i x i n g t o a v o i d a e r a t i o n . 4 . When u n i f o r m , add Myvatex 60 and Monamid 150 ADD. 5 . S l o w l y add SDA-40C a l c o h o l . 6 . Add f r a g r a n c e . 7. A d j u s t pH t o 6 : 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 8. A e r o s o l f i n a l c o n c e n t r a t e a t 5 . 2 3 g/mL o f A46 p r o p e l l a n t (Aeropress). Styling Mousse X22176-107 (Alcohol-Free)
Concentrate: D i s t i 1l e d w a t e r Eastman AQ 55s p o l y m e r Myvatex T e x t u r e L i t e emu1 s i f i e r Monamid 150 ADD Myvatex 60 e m u l s i f i e r Preservative Fragrance Citric acid *q.s.=quantity sufficient
w q.s.*
t o 100 8.0 5.5 1.0
0.3 q.s.* q.s.* q.s.*
Procedure: 1 . Heat Eastman AQ 55s and w a t e r t o 80-85C w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l t h e polymer i s completely dispersed i n t h e water. 2 . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and add p r e s e r v a t i v e . 3 . S l o w l y add Myvatex T e x t u r e L i t e w i t h h i g h - s p e e d a g i t a t i o n . Care s h o u l d be t a k e n when m i x i n g t o a v o i d a e r a t i o n . 4. When u n i f o r m , add Myvatex 60 and Monamid 150 ADD. 5. Add f r a g r a n c e . 6 . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 7 . A e r o s o l f i n a l c o n c e n t r a t e a t 5 . 2 3 g/mL o f A46 p r o p e l l a n t (Aeropress). SOURCE: Eastman Chemical Co. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products
247
Water-Based Hair Spray X21980-057 (Pump)
%X
Phase A : D i s t i l l e d water Eastman AQ 55s p o l y m e r
90.4 5.0
Phase 0 : Germall I 1 d i a z o l i d i n y l urea Methylparaben
0.3 0.3
Phase C : L u v i s k o l VA 73W PVP/VA copolymer--50% s o l i d s
4.0
Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A t o 85C. 2. W i t h m i x i n g , h o l d a t 80-85C f o r 15 m i n u t e s . 3 . Cool t o 60C, add Phase 6 , and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . 4. Cool t o 40C and add Phase C . 5 . Add w a t e r l o s t d u r i n g h e a t i n g . 6 . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m ; f i l t e r and p a c k a g e . pH: 6 . 0 + - 1 . 0 Water-Based Hair Spray X21980-058 (Aerosol)
rn
Phase A : D i s t i l l e d water Eastman AQ 38s p o l y m e r
60.4 5.0
Phase 0 : G e r m a l l I 1 d i azo1 id i n y l u r e a Methylparaben
0.3 0.3
Phase C : L u v i s k o l VA 73W PVP/VA copolymer--50% s o l i d s
4.0
Phase D: Dymel A d i m e t h y l e t h e r
30.0
Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A t o 85C. 2 . When m i x i n g , h o l d a t 80-85C f o r 15 m i n u t e s . 3 . Cool t o 60C, add Phase B, and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . 4. Cool t o 40C and add Phase C . 5 . Add w a t e r l o s t d u r i n g h e a t i n g . 6 . Add phase D a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . 7 . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m ; f i l t e r and package. 8. A g i t a t e a e r o s o l c o n t a i n e r t o e n s u r e s o l u t i o n o f p r o p e l l a n t . pH: 6 . 0 + - 1 . 0
SOURCE:
Eastman Chemical
Co,:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
248
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Wheat Germ Foaming Conditioner Mackam 35 (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ( V i a G l y c e r i d e ) Mackal ene 116 (Cocami d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l ami ne L a c t a t e ) Mackalene 716 (Wheat Germamidopropyl D i m e t h y l a m i ne L a c t a t e) N a t r o s o l 250 HHR M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o
Wei a h t . % 10.0 8.0 1.o 0.7 qs 100.0
Procedure: 1 . Completely hydrate Natrosol. 2 . Add f i r s t t h r e e components and h e a t t o 40 d e g r e e s C . 3. Blend u n t i l c l e a r . 4 . Add r e m a i n i n g components and c o o l . Natural Lipid Styling Mousse PVP/VA E335 SDA A l c o h o l Mackpro NLP ( Q u a t e r n i um-79 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ) (Natural L i p i d Protei n) D e i o n i z e d Water, F r a g r a n c e , Dye q s t o
Wei a h t , % 4.5 21.5 4.0 100.0
Procedure: 1 . Combine components and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 2 . P r e s s u r i ze w i t h s u i t a b l e p r o p e l 1a n t Pump Type Hair Spray Resyn 26-1 31 4 Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ) (Natural L i p i d Protein) D e i o n i z e d Water E t h a n o l , F r a g r a n c e qs t o Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e Resyn 26-1314 i n a l c o h o l . 2 . Add r e m a i n i n g components and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : P e r s o n a l Care F o r m u l a r y
Wei g h t , % 6.0 1.o 7.6 100.0
Hair Care Products
249
55% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray
Ingredients: L o v o c r y l 47 AMP D e i o n i zed Water Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40 Fragrance Preservative DME C l o u d P o i n t : <-35C
P a r t s by Wei q h t 8.00 1 .38 35.62 22.00
q.s. 9,s. 33.00
V a l v e : S e a q u i s t V a l v e NS-34 Stem: 0 . 0 1 3" G a s k e t : B t y l 0 . 0 4 2 " T H K . Code: 5 0 1 Cup: Regu a r , Epoxy t o p , L a m i n a t e Bottom, D i m p l e d , Code 1610 S p r i n g : 0 0 2 0 " ss Body: Cap 1 l a r y Vapor Tap 0 . 0 13" D i p Tube: 0.040'' A c t u a t o r : E x c e l 200 M i s t y 0 . 0 1 6 " M i s t y P r e p a r a t i on : D i s s o l v e AMP i n w a t e r and e t h a n o l . Whi l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n L o v o c r y l 47. M i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . F i l t e r and f i l l , t h e n c h a r g e w i t h p r o p e l l a n t . Formula 7625:638 80% VOC Non-Aerosol Hair Spray
T h i s 80% VOC n o n - a e r o s o l h a i r s p r a y has a n a t u r a l f e e l and e x c e l l e n t d r y i n g t i m e w i t h a f i n e , m i s t y spray. Ingredients: Lovocryl-47 NaOH DC 193 dl-Panthenol Citroflex-2 D e i o n i z e d Water Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40
P a r t s by Wei q h t 5.00 0.40 0.30 0.21 0.20 13.89 80.00
V a l v e S p e c i f i c a t i o n : Calmar Mark I 1 A c t u a t o r : WTS Head Preparation: D i s s o l v e NaOH i n w a t e r and e t h a n o l . Whi l e mai n t a i n i ng good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n L o v o c r y l - 4 7 . When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x w e l l u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l . Formula 7577-65
SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical C o . : Suggested Formulas
250
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
80% VOC Hair Spray Ingredients: Amp homer AMP C i t r o f 1ex-2 Monamid 716 G1 y c e r i ne d l Panthenol S o l u l an-75 N e o - H e l i o p a n AV Anhydrous E t h a n o l , P r o p e l 1a n t 152A N-butane
P a r t s bv Weight 5.00 0.82 0.30 0.20 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.05 55.00 13.33 25.00
SDA-40
V a l v e S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : P r e c i s i o n V a l v e Corp. Stem: 04-1215 .016" D i p Tube: 09-2010 Stem G a s k e t : 05-0350 B u t y l A c t u a t o r S t y l e : 21-8146 Kosmos O r i f i c e S i z e : ,025" MB Concave S p r i n g : 06-6010 SS Body: 07-7970 .016" LD M o u n t i n g Cup: 32-7300-62 F l a t , Epon T/B D i m p l e d F u l l Bond Preparation: D i s s o l v e AMP i n e t h a n o l . W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n Amphomer. When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r , f i l l and c h a r g e with propellants. Formula 7924:28 55% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray
I n g r e d i en t s ;
P a r t s b v Weight 5.00 0.89 1 .oo 38.11 22.00 33.00
Lovocryl AMP R h o d o r s i l O i l s 70041 V O .65 D I Water Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40 P r o p e l 1a n t DME
V a l v i ng Speci f ic a t on8 : S e a q u i s t NS 34 Stem O r i f i c e : 0 01 3" G a s k e t : B u t y l 0 . 042" Thk.Code: 501 Cup: R e g u l a r , Epoxy Top, L a m i n a t e Bottom, Dimpled, Code: 1610 S p r i n g : 0 . 0 2 0 " SS Vapor Tap: 0 . 0 1 3 " Tubing I D : 0.040" A c t u a t o r : E x c e l 1 200 M i s t y / O . 106" M i s t y Preparation : D i s s o l v e AMP i n e t h a n o l and w a t e r . W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n L o v o c r y l . When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add R h o d o r s i l O i l s 70041 VO .65 and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l - c h a r g e can w i t h p r o p e l l a n t . Formula 7746-137 SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co : Suggested F o r m u l a s I
Hair Care Products
251
80% VOC Hair Spray Resyn 28-2930 Amphomer LV-71 AMP Citroflex-2 Monamid 716 Glycerine Panthenol Sol u l an-75 Neo-He1 iopan AV Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40 P r o p e l 1a n t 152A N-butane Fragrance C l o u d P o i n t : <-35C Valve:
3.00 0.81 0.44 0.30 0.20 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.05 55.00 14.90 25.00 g.s.
P r e c i s i o n V a l v e Corp. 01 6" Stem: 04-121 5 Stem G a s k e t : 05-0350 Butyl ss S p r i n g : 06-6010 Body: 07-7970 .016" LD M o u n t i n g Cup: 3 2 - 7 3 0 0 - 6 2 / F l a t , Epon T/B D i m p l e d F u l l Bond D i p Tube: 09-2010 A c t u a t o r S t y l e : 21-8146 Kosmos O r i f i c e S i z e : .025" ME3 Concave Formul a 7318-93
.
High Humidity Hair Spray Ingredients: Resyn 28-2913 AMP C r o t e i n AD Anhydrous DC- 190 Fragrance Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40 P r o p e l 1a n t A-46
P a r t s by Wei s h t 2.50 0.24 0.20 0.20 Q.S.
71 . 8 6 25.00
Valve:
Precision Stem: 0.018" (#04-1220) Stem G a s k e t : Buna (#OS-0310) S p r i n g : SS (#06-6010) Body: 0 . 0 1 8 " x 0.013" VT (#07-0131) M o u n t i n g Cup: F l a t , Epon Top/Bottom, D i m p l e d (#12-7100) A c t u a t o r : 0.018'' FT (#01-1836) Preparation: D i s s o l v e AMP i n a n h y d r o u s e t h a n o l , SDA-40. S l o w l y add Resyn 28-2913 t o t h e s o l u t i o n w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g in g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i 1 homogeneous. F i 1t e r and fi11 c o n c e n t r a t e . Charge p r o p e l l a n t . Formula 6472:103
SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical C o r p . :
Suggested F o r m u l a s
252
Cosmetic and Toiletv Formulations
80% VOC Aerosol Shaper Hair Spray P a r t s by Wei s h t Inaredients : Amphomer LV-71 3.50 AMP R e g u l a r 0.60 Armeen DM 18D 0.25 C i t r o f 1e x - 2 0.20 Monamid 716 0.20 S o l u l a n 75 0.10 0.05 Neo H e l i o p a n AV V a r i o n C ADG LS 0.20 Dei o n i zed Water 14.90 Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40 50.00 N-butane 11 .oo DME 19.00 Valve S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : P r e c i s i o n Valve Stem: 0.016'' (04-1215) Stem G a s k e t : B u t y l (05-0350) S p r i n g : SS (06-6010) Body: 0.016'' LD (07-7970) M o u n t i n g Cup: F l a t , Epon T/B D i m p l e d F u l l Bond A c t u a t o r : Kosmos MB Concave 0.025'' ( 2 1 - 8 1 4 6 ) P r e p a r a t i on : D i s s o l v e AMP R e g u l a r and Armeen DM 1ED i n w a t e r and e t h a n o l . W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n Amphomer LV-71. When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x w e l l u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l . Formul a 8002 : 183 High Solids 80% VOC Hair Spray Ingredients: P a r t s by W e i g h t L o v o c r y l 47 10.00 AMP 1.73 C i t r o f 1ex-2 0.20 Monamid 716 0.15 0.10 G1 y c e r i ne Panthenol 0.10 Dei o n i zed Water 7.72 50. 00 Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40 N-butane 12.00 DME 18.00 q.s. Fragrance C l o u d P o i n t : (-35C V a l v e : P r e c i s i o n V a l v e Corp. Stem: 04-1215 0 . 0 1 6 " G a s k e t : 05-0350 B u t y l S p r i n g : 06-6010 SS Body: 07-7970 0 . 0 1 6 " LD Cup: 32-7300-62 F l a t , Epon T/B, Dimpled, F u l l Bond Vapor Tap: None D i p Tube: 09-2010 0.122" A c t u a t o r : 0 . 0 1 6" MB Concave D e l t a Preparation: D i s s o l ve AMP in w a t e r and e t h a n o l W h i 1e mai n t a i n i ng good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n L o v o c r y l 47. When d i s s o l v e d , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i11 , t h e n c h a r g e w i t h p r o p e l 1a n t s . Formula 7625:95 SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co.: Suggested F o r m u l a s
.
Section VII Lotions
253
254
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
After Exercise Body
Lotion
T h i s r e f r e s h i n g l o t i o n i s an e x c e l l e n t c a r r i e r f o r f r a g r a n c e s and w i l l p r o v i d e m o i s t u r i z i n g a l o n g w i t h a s k i n s m o o t h i n g e f f e c t .
% bv Weiaht P a r t I: Water Carbomer 940 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (99%) P a r t 11: Water Phosphol ip i d SV SD3A A l c o h o l P a r t 111: Phenyl D i m e t h i c o n e T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (Cosmetic White)
51 - 6 5 0.25 0.40 30.00 1.oo 15.00 1.50 0.20
Procedure: S l o w l y add Carbomer 940 t o w a t e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . A f t e r t h e Carbomer 940 i s d i s s o l v e d , add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , m i x w a t e r w i t h P h o s p h o l i p i d SV and h e a t t o 65C w i t h m i x i n g . When d i s s o l v e d , c o o l t o 30-35C t h e n add SD3A a l c o h o l B l e n d P a r t I 1 t o I m i x i n g we1 1, and p a r t I 1 1 as a s l u r r y and b l e n d t o g e t h e r u n t i l a u n i f o r m w h i t e l o t i o n i s o b t a i n e d . Add c o l o r , f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e a s r e q u i r e d and package. I
Therapeutic Humectant Lotion % bv Weiaht
Part A: Phosphol ip i d SV G1 y c e r i n T i 02 Water M e t h y l Paraben P a r t B: Steareth-2 Hexyl Laurate C12-Cl5 A l c o h o l B e n z o a t e s D i m e t h i c o n e and T r i m e t h y l s i l o x y s i l i c a t e P r o p y l Paraben
1.7 15.0 0.5 72.6 0.2 3.3 3.0 2.0 1.5 0.2
Procedure: Combine phases A and B s e p a r a t e l y w i t h h e a t i n g t o 65C. Homogenize B i n t o A f o r a s u f f i c i e n t t i m e t o e n s u r e good e m u l s i f i c a t i o n . S t i r c o o l t o 45C, add f r a g r a n c e , and package. Comment 8 : T h i s smooth p o u r a b l e l o t i o n p r o v i d e s i n s t a n t r e l i e f o f d r y , chapped s k i n and p r o v i d e s a g e n e r o u s amount o f e m o l l i e n t s and g l y c e r i n . The use of Phosphol ip i d SV e l i m i n a t e s any g r e a s i ness and l e a v e s t h e s k i n w i t h an e l e g a n t a f t e r f e e l . SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions
255
Alcoholic Milk Lotion
(0) S t e a r i c Acid Cetyl Alcohol Isopropyl Myri s t a t e G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( S e l f Emu1 s i f y i ng Type) P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e (20) C e t y l E t h e r M e t h y l Paraben
2.0 1.o 2.0 1.1 1.9 q.s.
(W) A j i d e w N-50 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Water
3.0 5.0 74.0
(E) E t h y l Alcohol
10.0
Procedure: 1 . Heat ( 0 ) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Cool t o 50C w i t h s t i r r i n g and add ( E ) . 4 . F i n i s h m i x i n g a t 35-40C. pH: 5 . 1 V i s c o s i t y : 270 c p s Milk Lotion
P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C) Cetyl Alcohol S o r b i t a n Monostearate Polyoxyethylene (20) S o r b i t a n Monooleate Tocopherol A c e t a t e
31 .6 4.5 4.5 1.8 2.8 0.2
A j i d e w T-50 Water Preservative
4.0 50.5 0.1
(0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70)
(W)
Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o ( 0 ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Cool t o 42C w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 6 . 2 V i s c o s i t y : 25,000 c p s
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
256
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a h i g h l y a b s o r b e n t l o t i o n t h a t can b e d i s p e n s e d f r o m a f l e x i b l e t u b e o r s o f t b o t t l e . The a l p h a h y d r o x y a c i d (AHA) c o n t a i n e d i n t h i s f o r m u l a i s b u f f e r e d l a c t i c a c i d w i t h a use l e v e l o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 10%. The f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s a c a t i o n i c and n o n i o n i c e m u l s i f i c a t i o n system c o n s i s t i n g o f Lexemul 561, Lexemul AR and Lexamine 5-13. The c a t i o n i c Lexam i n e S-13 enhances t h e s u b s t a n t i v i t y o f t h e f o r m u l a t i o n and may a c t as an a u x i l i a r y AHA b u f f e r . The p r o d u c t p r o d u c e s m i n imal whitening d u r i n g rub-out
.
A.
67.42 3.00 0.20 0.20 0.60
D e i o n i z e d Water G l y c e r i n USP ( 9 9 . 7 % ) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d M) 2 , 4 - D i c h l o r o b e n z y l A l c o h o l ( M y a c i d e SP) L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%)
B . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r a m i d o e t h y l D i e t h y l ami ne (Lexemul AR) S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l ami ne (Lexami ne 5 - 1 3 ) C e t y l A l c o h o l (Ado1 52) C a p r y l ic / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e x o l GT-865) I s o b u t y l S t e a r a t e ( L e x o l BS) Propylparaben (Lexgard P) C.
L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%) Sodium L a c t a t e ( P u r a s a l S/SP 60%)
3.00 1.25 0.50 0.50 8.00 1 .oo 0.10 5.90 8.33
Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n " A " . B e g i n h e a t i n g t o 75-80C. 2. Combine s e c t i o n "B". Heat t o 80-85C w i t h c o n s t a n t s l o w agitation. 3. When s e c t i o n s "A" and "B" a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g Mix w i t h r a p i d n a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s , s l o w l y add "B" t o "A" a g i t a t i o n f o r 5 minutes then begin c o o l i n g . 4. Reduce m i x i n g speed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g . 5 . A t 40-5OC, add s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t i o n s "AB". 6. When t h e ba c h i s homogeneous and a t 35-40C a d j u s t f o r w a t e r loss. 7 . M i x t o 30C. 8 . A d j u s t f i n a pH t o 3 . 5 0 - 3 . 7 5 w i t h L a c t i c A c i d o r Sodium L a c t a t e , as r e q u i r e d .
.
SOURCE:
I n o l e x Chemical Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n 398-156-1
Lotions
257
Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion R e s u l t i n g product i s a l o t i o n t h a t c o u l d be dispensed from a f l e x i b l e t u b e o r f l e x i b l e b o t t l e . The a l p h a h y d r o x y a c i d (AHA) c o n t a i n e d i n t h i s f o r m u l a i s b u f f e r e d l a c t i c a c i d w i t h a use l e v e l o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 10%. T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s a c a t i o n i c and n o n i o n i c e m u l s i f i c a t i o n s y s t e m c o n s i s t i n g o f Lexemul 561 and Lexamine S-13. The c a t i o n i c Lexamine S-13 enhances t h e s u b s t a n t i v i t y o f t h e f o r m u l a t i o n and may a c t as an a u x i l i a r y AHA b u f f e r . The p r o d u c t p r o d u c e s m i n i m a l w h i t e n i n g d u r i n g rub-out. A.
D e i o n i z e d Water G1 y c e r i n USP ( 9 9 . 7 % ) H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( C e l l o s i z e PP-4400-H)
6. M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d M) 2,4-Dichlorobenzyl Alcohol L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%)
( M y a c i d e SP)
68.50 3.00 1-00 0.20 0.20 0.60
C . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 2 . 0 0 S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l ami ne (Lexami ne S-13) 1 .oo C e t y l A l c o h o l (Ado1 5 2 ) 0.50 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e x o l GT-865) 7.00 I s o b u t y l S t e a r a t e (Lexol BS) 2.00 P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d P) 0.10 D. L a c t i c A c i d (88%) Sodium L a c t a t e ( P u r a s a l S/SP 60%)
5.90 8.00
Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n " A " . B e g i n h e a t i n g t o 75-80C. S i f t Hydroxyethylcellulose i n t o vortexing water. 2 . When s e c t i o n "A" i s homogeneous, add s e c t i o n "6" t o s e c t i o n " A " . C o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e h e a t i n g t o 75-80C. 3 . Combine s e c t i o n "C". Heat t o 80-85C w i t h c o n s t a n t s l o w agitation. 4. When s e c t i o n s "AB" & 'IC" a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g n a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s , s l o w l y add "C" t o "AB'q. M i x w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n f o r 5 minutes then begin c o o l i n g . 5 . Reduce m i x i n g speed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g . 6 . A t 40-50C, add s e c t i o n "D" t o s e c t i o n s "ABC". 7. When t h e b a t c h i s homogeneous and a t 35-40C a d j u s t f o r water l o s s . 8 . M i x t o 30C. 9 . A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 3 . 5 0 - 3 . 7 5 w i t h L a c t i c Ac d o r Sodium L a c t a t e , as r e q u i r e d .
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co. : Formula 398-157-2
258
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Banana Hand Lotion P a r t s by Wei q h t 568. Ogr 2.0gr 4 . Ogr 16.0gr 4. Q g r 16.0gr 4.0gr 4 . Ogr 6.0gr
Water Carbomer 934 GMS-SE Avocado O i l Rosswax 573 Coconut O i l #76 Ross J o j o b a O i l TEA Germaben I 1 Fragrance GK-17
q.s.
Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r t o 60C under a g i t a t i o n and s l o w l y add t h e Carbomer 934. When t h e w a t e r i s f u l l y mixed add t h e 573, GMS, Avocado O i l , Coconut O i l and J o j o b a O i l t h a t have been h e a t e d t o 65C i n s e p a r a t e k e t t l e . A s soon as t h e O i l Phase has been mixed w e l l , add t h e Germaben I 1 and t h e n t h e TEA under h i g h a g i t a t i o n , t h e n t h e f r a g r a n c e . Cool t o 55C f o r f i l l i n g . O/W Lotion
Phase 1 : Ross Wax 63-0412 Ross Wax 1641 M i n e r a l Wax #9 Ross Wax 63-0212 Amerchol L-1 01 Ross J o j o b a O i 1 GMS SE
!%
1.6 1. o 2.1 1.o 5.2 2.1 2.1
Phase 2 :
1.o 4.7 78.2 1. o
T r i e t h a n o l ami ne
P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Water P r e s e r v a t i v e Germaben I 1 Novarome DE-47 F r a g r a n c e
q.s.
Procedure: I n s e p a r a t e k e t t l e s b r i n g Phase ( 1 ) and ( 2 ) t o 170F. When t e m p e r a t u r e i s reached add Phase ( 1 ) t o ( 2 ) w i t h a g i t a t on. Cool t o 120F and package. SOURCE:
Frank B . R o s s C o . ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions
259
Behenyl Hand Lotion T h i s l o t i o n f e a t u r e s t h e c o m b i n a t i o n o f I n c r o m i n e BB and C r o d a c i d 8, t h a t p r o v i d e g r e a t s t a b i l i t y ( 1 month a t 50C). Crodamol PMP h e l p s t o f o r m u l a t e a n o n - o i l y l o t i o n w i t h smooth r u b i n . Inaredients: Part A: I n c r o m i n e BB (Behenami d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l ami ne) Crodacid B (Behenic A c i d ) Crodamol PMP (PPG-2 M y r i s t y l E t h e r P r o p i o n a t e ) Dimethicone P a r t B: D e i o n i z e d Water P a r t C: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l Urea and) M e t h y l Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben
% 3.0 2.5 20.0 3.0 70.5 1.o
Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x ng and h e a t t o 85-9OC. Heat P a r t B t o 85-QOC. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 45C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l temperature. N.A.T.C. Approved Formula SC-215 Velvet 44-Behenyl Lotion T h i s l o t i o n f e a t u r e s a unique combination o f e m u l s i f i e r s ( I n c r o m i n e BB and C r o d a c i d 8 ) t h a t p r o v i d e g r e a t s t a b i l i t y ( 3 months 13 50C) and l e a v e a s o f t v e l v e t y f e e l on t h e s k i n . Crodamol PMP h e l p s r e d u c e t h e o i l i n e s s o f t h e m i n e r a l o i l and promotes a smooth r u b i n . Inoredients: P a r t A: I n c r o m i ne BB (Behenami d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l ami ne) Crodacid B (Behenic A c i d ) M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) Crodamol PMP (PPG-2 M y r i s t y l E t h e r P r o p i o n a t e S i l i c o n e F l u i d (200 c p s ) DC 200 Part 8: Dei o n i zed w a t e r Part C: Germaben I 1
-% 3.00 2.50 15.00 10.00 1 .oo 67.50 1 .oo
Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 85-9OC. Heat P a r t 0 t o 85-9OC. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and cool t o d e s i r e d f i l l temperature. N.A.T.C. Approved Formula SC-213 SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t l o n s
260
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Body Lotion Ingredients: 36w/w Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 M e t h y l G1 ucose D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care 450) 2.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) 6.5 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosoft OS) 5.7 Phase 8 : G lyceri n 3.0 Water 81.4 Phase C : Mineral O i l 0.8 Carbomer 941 0.2 Phase D : Sodium H y d r o x i d e (10% s o l u t i o n ) 0.4 Phase E : Fragrance Q.S. Preservatives Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o 80C. 2 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase 8 t o 80C. 3 . Add A t o B o r B t o A w i t h o u t s t i r r i n g . 4. S t i r . 5 . D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r add t o A/B. Homogenize. 6 . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . 7 . Add Phase D / E . S t i r . 8. Mix u n t i 1 v i s c o s i t y i s c o r r e c t , Emollient Lotion O/W Cold P r o c e s s Inaredients: Phase A : PEG-25 G1 y c e r y l T r i o l e a t e ( T a g a t TO) 0.5 P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( I s o l a n G I 34) 1.5 4.0 Mineral O i l I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) 3.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) 2.0 D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l 350) 0.2 Phase B : Water 83.6 G1 y c e r i n 3.0 Q.S. Preservative Phase C : Carbomer 934 0.3 Mineral O i l 1.2 Phase D : NaOH (10% S o l u t i o n ) 0.7 Procedure: 1 . Homogenize A + B, o i l p a r t i c l e s i z e t l . 0 urn. 2 . Add C and D, s t i r i n t e n s i v e l y f o r 30 m i n u t e s . T e m p e r a t u r e o f t h e phases A , B, C, D : a r e 2 0 - 2 5 C SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l Co. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions
261
Body Lotion
%w/w
Inqredients: Isohexadecane Mineral o i l Isostearic acid Arlamol E Cyclomethicone
9.00 5 .OO 3.00 2.00 1 .oo
0.10
Xanthan gum Water Sorbo, s o r b i t o 1 s o l u t i on A r l a t o n e 2121
73.90 2.00 4.00
* P r e s e r v a t ive *Perfume *q . s a t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s . Procedure: Heat ( C ) t o 8OC w i t h o c c a s i o n a l v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . Add ( B ) t o ( C ) a t 75C w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . Add ( A ) w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g or h o m o g e n i z a t i o n . Add (D) and ( E ) upon c o o l i n g . Moisturizing Hand Lotion Inaredi ents: A Mineral o i l CR-15 a l c o h o l s b e n z o a t e Jojoba o i 1 B
Xanthan gum
C
Water Propylene g l y c o l A r l a t o n e 2121
D
*Preservative
E
*Perfume *q.s
8.00 7.00 5.00 0.10
70.90 4.00 5.00
these i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat ( C ) t o 8OC w i t h o c c a s i o n a l v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . Add ( B ) t o (C) a t 75C w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . Add (A) w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g o r h o m o g e n i z a t i o n . Add ( D ) and ( E ) upon c o o l i n g .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
262
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Concentrated Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion
R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a p o u r a b l e l o t i o n t h a t c o u l d be d i s p e n s e d f r o m a g l a s s o r r i g i d p l a s t i c b o t t l e . The f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s a b u f f e r e d a l p h a h y d r o x y a c i d (AHA), L a c t i c A c i d , a t a u s e l e v e l o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 15%. The f o r m u l a u t i l i z e s a c a t i o n i c and n o n i o n i c e m u l s i f i c a t i o n system c o n s i s t i n g o f L e x q u a t AMG-IS and Lexemul 561. I n a d d i t i o n t o f u n c t i o n i n g as t h e p r i m a r y e m u l s i f i e r , L e x q u a t AMG-IS, a l s o enhances s k i n s u b s t a n t i v i t y . T h i s formu l a t i o n o f f e r s a h i g h l e v e l o f a c t i v i t y i n a b u f f e r e d form.
w
Dei o n i zed Water 52 30 Methylparaben (Lexgard M) 0.20 2 , 4 - D i c h l o r o b e n z y l A l c o h o l ( M y a c i d e SP) 0.20 2.70 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%) 0.50 0.50 B . H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( C e l l o s i z e QP-15,OOOH) C . I s o s t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l PG-Di moni um C h l o r i d e ( L e x q u a t AMG-IS) 10.10 1.75 D . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 3.40 561 ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ( L e x o l PG-865) 2.50 0.80 C e t y l A l c o h o l (Ado1 52) J o j o b a O i l (Golden J o j o b a O i l ) 2.50 M y r i s t y 1 M y r i s t a t e ( C e r a p h y l 424) 0.85 0.10 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 7.25 E . L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%) 14.35 Sodium L a c t a t e ( P u r a s a l S/SP 60%) Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A" h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. Use p r o p e l l e r m i x e r for agitation. 2. S p r i n k l e s e c t i o n 'tBvt i n t o s e c t i o n 'lA". I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed t o c r e a t e a v o r t e x d u r i n g a d d i t i o n , then slow t o highest speed w h i c h does n o t p r o d u c e a v o r t e x . 3 . When s e c t i o n s "A" and rtB1' a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g n a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s add s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t i o n s "AB". 4. Combine s e c t i o n I'D". Heat t o 80-85C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s s l o w mixing. 5. When s e c t i o n s "A8C" and s e c t i o n "DI' a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g i n a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s , s l o w l y p o u r s e c t i o n "D" i n t o S e c t i o n s lfABCtl. I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed t o a h i g h speed. M a i n t a i n a t 80-85C f o r 5 m i n u t e s , t h e n b e g i n c o o l i n g . Slow m i x i n g speed t o h i g h e s t speed p o s s i b l e t h a t w i l l n o t cause v o r t e x i ng. 6 . Add s e c t i o n "E" t o s e c t i o n s "ABCD" a t 60-65C. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g . 7 . A t 40-45C a d j u s t f o r w a t e r l o s s . 8 . M i x b a t c h u n t i l i t r e a c h e s room t e m p e r a t u r e . 9 . A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 3 . 6 0 - 3 . 8 0 w i t h L a c t i c A c i d o r Sodium L a c t a t e , as r e q u i r e d . Physical Properties: V i s c o s i t y : 2400 cPs @ 24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, TA @ 10 rpm) pH: 3.7 @ 24C SOURCE: Inolex Chemical Co.: F o r m u l a t i o n 398-99-2
A.
I
Lotions
263
Deep Skin Cleansing Lotion % bv Weight Materials: 50.0 1 . M i n e r a l O i l SUS 65/75 2 . Amerchol L-101 3.0 3.0 3 . C e r a s y n t PA 4. Tween 20 3.0 1.o 5. S t e a r i c A c i d T . P . 6 . Propylparaben 0.1 7. M e t h y l p a r a b e n 0.2 8 . Water ( d e i o n i z e d ) 38.6 0.5 9 . Borax U . S . P . 1 0 . B e n t o n e LT r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 0.3 11.Perfume 0.3 Manufacturing Directions: 1. P a r t 1 - I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l , add i t e m s 1 t h r o u g h 7 and h e a t t o 75C. M a i n t a i n t h i s t e m p e r a t u r e and s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l e v e r y t h i n g i s i n s o l u t i o n . B r i n g t e m p e r a t u r e t o 60C. 2 . P a r t 2 - I n a s e p a r a t e s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l , add i t e m 8 and h e a t t o 60C. Add and d i s s o l v e i t e m 9 . Add i t e m 10 and m i x a t medium speed (1200 rpm) f o r a b o u t 20 m i n u t e s , o r u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d , w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g t e m p e r a t u r e a t 60C. 3 . P a r t 3-Add P a r t 2 t o P a r t 1 s l o w l y and m i x t o g e t h e r . 4 . Cool l o t i o n t o 50C and add i t e m 11. S t i r s l o w l y t o room temperature. Formula TS-105
Hand Lotion M a t e r ia1 s : ?6 bv Wei qht 1 . Water 87.59 2. Triethanolamine 0.42 3 . Propylene Glycol 4.00 0.10 4. M e t h y l p a r a b e n 5 . Bentone LT r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 0.80 6 . C e r a p h y l 424 3.00 0.79 7. S t e a r i c A c i d T . P . 1 .oo 8 . P l u r o n i c F-127 9. G l y c e r y l Monostearate 2.00 10.Propylparaben 0.10 11.Perfume 0.20 Manufacturing Directions: 1 . P a r t 1 - I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d k e t t l e , add i t e m s 1 t h r o u g h 4 and h e a t t o 60C. U s i n g a homomixer a t a b o u t 1400 r p m , add i t e m 5 s l o w l y t o a v o i d lumps, and m i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l homogeneous. If foam d e v e l o p s , add a m i n u t e amount o f A n t i f o a m 60. Heat P a r t 1 t o 78C. 2 . P a r t 2 - I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , add i t e m s 6 t h r o u g h 10 and h e a t t o 78C. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y m e l t e d and homogeneous. 3 . M i x P a r t 2 s l o w l y i n P a r t 1 a t 78C u s i n g sweep b l a d e s . 4. Cool t o 50C. Add i t e m 10, m i x and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Formula TS-200 SOURCE: Rheox, Inc.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
264
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Deep Moisturizing Lotion This after-bath l o t i o n gives the b e n e f i t s o f potent s k i n c o n d i t i o n e r s whi l e e l i m i n a t i n g t h e t a c k i n e s s a s s o c i a t e d w i t h l a n o l i n and p e t r o l a t u m t h r o u g h t h e u n i q u e e m o l l i e n c y p r o v i d e d by Phosphol i p i d EFA. Part A: P h o s p h o l i p i d €FA Steareth-21 Water
% B Y Weiqht
4.00 0.40 82.00
P a r t B: Steareth-2 Anhydrous L a n o l i n Petrolatum Octyldodecyl Myri s t a t e Cetearyl Alcohol D i m e t h i cone ( 1 OOcS)
1 .60
1 .50 3.00 2.00 4.00 1 .50
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y and h e a t t o 65C. Homogenize (B) i n t o (A) w i t h c o n t i n u e d h e a t i n g u n t i l s u f f i c i e n t l y m i x e d . S t i r - c o o l t o 45-50C, t h e n add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , and p r e s e r v a t i v e as needed b e f o r e f i l l i n g . Hand and Body Lotion
A s u p e r i o r p r o d u c t d e s i g n e d f o r a f t e r - b a t h use on t r a d i t i o n a l l y d r y a r e a s such a s hands, elbows and h e e l s . P h o s p h o l i p i d €FA i s s t r o n g l y s u b s t a n t i v e t o w a r d s s k i n p r o v i d i n g non-greasy m o i s t u r i z i n g and a p l e a s a n t a f t e r f e e l . P a r t A: Phosphol i p i d EFA Water
% b y Weiqht
4.00 83 00 I
Part 0 : Steareth-2 Light Mineral O i l Cetearyl Alcohol Octyldodecyl Myris t a t e D i m e t h i c o n e (1OOcS)
2.00 4.00 3.00 2.50 1.50
Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y and h e a t t o 6 5 C . Homogenize ( 6 ) i n t o ( A ) w i t h c o n t i n u e d h e a t i n g u n t i l s u f f i c i e n t l y m i x e d . S t i r - c o o l t o 45C. Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , and p r e s e r v a t i v e as needed and f i l l . SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , Formulations
I n c . : PHOSPHOLIPID EFA: Suggested
Lotions
265
Emollient Lotion I l l u s t r a t e s t h e use o f Veegum P r o magnesium aluminum s i l i c a t e as an e m u l s i o n s t a b i l i z e r and t h i c k e n e r . The f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o s e r v e as a g u i d e f o r t h e d e v e l o p m e n t o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e improvement o f e x i s t i ng ones. 1.5% A Veegum P r o 83.8 Water 0.1 B T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 3.5 Glycerin 3.6 C M a r c o l 130 0.4 Petrolatum 1.6 S t e a r i c a c i d XXX 1.5 Cetyl alcohol Kessco G l y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e SE 1.4 2.0 Acetulan 0.6 Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d P r e s e r v a t ive q.s. Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r t o 70 t o 75C, t h e n s l o w l y add t h e Veegum PRO w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r . M i x u n t i l smooth. Add B t o A w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n u n t i l smooth. M a i n t a i n A/B a t 70 t o 7 5 C , h e a t C t o 75 t o 00C. Add C t o A/0 and m i x u n t i l c o o l . C o n s i s t e n c y : Medium v i s c o s i t y l o t i o n . Suggested P a c k a g i n g : Squeeze o r pump b o t t l e . Comments: Veegum PRO e f f e c t i v e l y t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l i z e s t h e l o t i o n , even a t e l e v a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s . T h i s l o t i o n i s a b s o r b e d r a p i d l y , l e a v i n g t h e s k i n smooth and g r e a s e l e s s . Hand and Body Lotion I l l u s t r a t e s t h e u s e o f Veegum PRO magnesium aluminum s i l i c a t e as an e m u l s i o n s t a b i l i z e r and t h i c k e n e r . The f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o s e r v e as a g u i d e f o r t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones. A Veegum P r o 2.00% Water 70.75 6.00 Glycerin B M a r c a l 130 10.00 Petrolatum 4.00 A r l a c e l 165 5 .OO Synchrowax A w l - C 1.25 C Allantoin 1 .oo Preservative q.s. Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r t o 70 t o 75C, t h e n s l o w l y add t h e Veegum PRO w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r . M i x u n t i l smooth. Add g l y c e r i n e and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . H e a t 6 t o 75 t o 80C. Add B t o A and m i x u n t i l c o o l . Add C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . C o n s i s t e n c y : Medium v i s c o s i t y l o t i o n . Suggested P a c k a g i n g : Squeeze o r pump b o t t l e . Comments: Veegum PRO e f f e c t i v e l y t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l i z e s t h e e m u l s i o n even a t e l e v a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s . G l y c e r i n h e l p s t o r a p i d l y h y d r a t e d r y s k i n and t h e s e l e c t i o n o f o i l s and waxes p r o d u c e s a smooth and n o n - g r e a s y f e e l . The a l l a n t o i n p r o v i d e s s o o t h i n g r e l i e f f o r wounds, b u r n s , and s k i n p r o b l e m s i n g e n e r a l . SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c , : F o r m u l a Nos. 4 1 7 & No. 420
266
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
European O/W Cleansing Lotion
&% J 15.00 3.00
Inaredients: A Mineral o i l Arlamol E
2.00 1 .25 1.25 72.50
B
A r l a t o n e 2121 Propylene g l y c o l Glycerol Water
C
Carbomer 934 (3% s o l u t i o n )
D
Sodium H y d r o x i d e (10% s o l u t i o n ) t o pH o f 6 . 5 - 7 . 0
E
*Perfume
5.00
*q. s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: D i s p e r s e (C) i n ( 6 ) a t 75C w i t h m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g . Heat ( A ) and add a t 75 w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . Homogenize d u r i n g a d d i t i o n o f ( A ) . S t i r v i g o r o u s l y u n t i l c o o l . Add ( 0 ) a r o u n d 50C. Add (E) a t b e l o w 35C. Water/Oil Cleansing Lotion I n q r e d ients: A Mineral o i l Beeswax C e r e s i n wax Sorbo A r l a c e l 186 Tween 80 B
15.00 0.50 0.50 27.00 3.00 0.50 53.50
W a t e r , d e i o n i zed *Preservative
*q. s t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add w a t e r l o s t due t o evapo r a t ion.
SOURCE: IC1
Surfactants:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions
267
Gentle Moisturizing Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a t h i x o t r o p i c l o t i o n w h i c h c a n be d i s p e n s e d f r o m a f l e x i b l e t u b e or s o f t p l a s t i c b o t t l e . The p r o d u c t u t i l i z e s a b l e n d o f t w o a l p h a h y d r o x y a c i d s (AHA'S), and b u f f e r e d c i t r i c a c i d a t a combined use l e v e l o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 2.5%. T h i s p r o d u c t c o u l d be u s e d as a d a i l y use moi s t u r i z i n g AHA p r o d u c t .
w
D e i o n i z e d Water 76.70 0.20 M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d M) 2 , 4 - D i c h l o r o b e n z y l A l c o h o l ( M y a c i d e SP) 0.20 Hexyl ene G1 y c o l 1 .oo B . H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l ose ( C e l l o s i ze QP-15,OOOH) 1 .oo C . I s o s t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l PG-Dimonium C h l o r i d e ( L e x q u a t AMG-IS) 2.00 D. G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 3.00 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 4 . 0 0 2.10 Propylene Glycol D i p e l argonate I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (and) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (and) 1 .oo I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e ( L e x o l 3975) 2.00 Sesame O i l 0.10 T o c o p h e r o l ( C o p h e r o l 1300) 0.10 P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d P) E. D e i o n i z e d Water 4.00 Mal ic A c i d ( G r a n u l a r ) 1 .oo Sodium C i t r a t e USP-FCC 1.60 Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A" h e a t i n g t o 70-75C. Use a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r for a g i t a t i o n . 2 . S p r i n k l e s e c t i o n ftB19 i n t o s e c t i o n " A " . I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed t o c r e a t e a v o r t e x d u r i n g a d d i t i o n , then slow t o highest speed w h i c h does n o t p r o d u c e a v o r t e x . 3 . When s e c t i o n s '!A" & 'lBll a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g n a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s add s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t i o n s "AB". 4. Combine s e c t i o n " D " . Heat t o 75-80C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s s l o w m i x i ng. 5 . When s e c t i o n s "ABC" and s e c t i o n 'ID" a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g n a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s , s l o w l y p o u r s e c t i o n "D" i n t o s e c t i o n s "ABC'I. I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed t o a h i g h speed. Maint a i n a t 80-85C for 5 m i n u t e s , t h e n b e g i n c o o l i n g . Slow m i x i n g speed t o h i g h e s t speed p o s s i b l e t h a t w i l l n o t cause v o r t e x i n g . 6 . Combine s e c t i o n "E" and m i x u n t i l i t becomes a c l e a r s o l u t i o n . 7 . Add s e c t i o n "E" t o s e c t i o n s "ABCD" a t 60-65C. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g . 8 . A t 40-45C a d j u s t f o r w a t e r l o s s . 9 . M i x b a t c h u n t i l i t r e a c h e s 30-35C. 10. A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 4 . 0 0 - 4 . 1 0 w i t h a M a l i c A c i d s o l u t i o n , as requi red P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i 8s: V i s c o s i t y : 4,500 cPs @ 24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, TA @ 10 rpm) 24 h o u r sample. pn: 4.1 @ 24c
A.
I
SOURCE:
I n o l e x Chemical Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n 398-87-3
268
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand Lotion Ingredi ents: Isopropyl palmitate Oleic acid S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed Atmul 84s Sorbo T r i e t h a n o l ami n e Water, d e i o n i z e d and . l % p r e s e r v a t i v e B A l c o h o l , SDA 40 Fragrance
A
%w/w 2.00 2.00 2.00 3.20 2.00 1 .oo 83.30 4.00 0.50
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 95C. A g i t a t e u n t i l a m i l k y e m u l s i o n forms and i s c o o l e d t o 45C. D i s s o l v e f r a g r a n c e i n t h e a l c o h o l . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) . S t i r t o i n s u r e thorough a g i t a t i o n . Hand Lotion Ingredients: A Light mineral o i l Stearic acid A c e t y l a t e d 1a n o l i n A r l a c e l 165 Cetyl alcohol S i l i c o n e f l u i d , 200 c s B Water Sorbo, S o r b i t o 1 s o l u t i on, USP M e t h y l paraben P r o p y l paraben
4.00 2.00 3.00
5.00 1-00
1
.oo
78.80 5.00 0.18 0.02
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and (6) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o s e t p o i n t and homogenize. Formula S K - 9 Hand Lotion Inqredi ents : A Mineral o i l B r i j 52 B r i j 58 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne B Carboxy v i n y l p o l y m e r , Carbopol 934 Water, d e i o n i zed *Preservative * q . s . these i n g r e d i e n t s .
30.00 5.20 4.80 0.20 0.20 59.60
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) r a p i d agitation. S t i r u n t i l set. SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions
269
Hand Lotion
% v&J
Ingredients: Arlamol E A r l a s o l v e 200L B r i j 72 Stearyl alcohol
8.00 1.70 2.80 2.00
A
85.10 0.20
E
Water, d e i o n i z e d C a r b o p o l 934
C
Sodium h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % W / W
D
*Preservative *Perfume
aqueous)
0.20
*q. s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s . Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n w a t e r and h e a t (B) t o 70C. Heat ( A ) t o 72C and add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add (C) and i n c r e a s e speed o f t h e a g i t a t i o n as needed. Add ( D ) and r e p 1 a c e w a t e r 1o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n . F o r m u l a AE-9
Hand Lotion
w
Ingredients: Stearyl alcohol B r i j 7215
5.00 1.50
A
B
92.80
W a t e r , d e i o n i zed C a r b o p o l 934
0.20
C
Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % W / W
aqueous)
0.20
D
D o w i c i l 200
0.10
E
Fragrance
0.20
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y u s i n g p r o p e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add (D) when t h e t e m p e r a t u r e d r o p s b e l o w 50C. Add ( E ) b e l o w 40C. Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5
SOURCE:
I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
270
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand Lotion
%w/w
Inqredients: A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g.m.s. Cetyl alcohol
5.00 5.00
A
B
Sorbo, 70% s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n U . S . P . W a t e r , d e i o n i zed *Preservative
C
* M i l d a c i d t o a d j u s t pH * q . s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .
5.00 85.00
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add (B) t o (A) w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h s t i r r i n g . Protective Hand Lotion
o/ow/w
Inqredients: A S i l i c o n e f l u i d , 50 c s B r i j 52 B r i j 56 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne B
Carboxy v i n y l p o l y m e r , Carbopol 934 Water, d e i o n i zed *Preservative *q.s. these i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat (5) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) agitation. S t i r u n t i l set.
10.00 2.60 4.90 0.20 0.20 82.10
rapid
Protective Hand Lotion
%w/w
Inqredients: A S i l i c o n e f l u i d , 50 c s B r i j 52 B r i j 58 Triethanolamine B
Carboxy v i n y l p o l y m e r , Carbopol 934 Water, d e i o n i zed *Preservative * q . s . these i n g r e d i e n t s ,
10.00 4.00 3.60
0.20 0.20 82.00
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) r a p i d agitation. S t i r u n t i l set.
SOURCE:
IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions
271
Hand Lotion % b y Wei n h t M a t e r i a1 s : P a r t A: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 85.89 2 . T r i e t h a n o l ami n e 0.42 3. G l y c e r i n e 4.00 4. M e t h y l Paraben 0.10 5. Eentone EW r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 1.50 P a r t E: 6 . C e r a p h y l 424 3.00 0.79 7 . S t e a r i c A c i d XXX 1.oo 8. Isopropanol Lanolate D i s t i l l e d 9 . P l u r o n i c F-127 1 .oo 10.Glyceryl Monostearate 2.00 1 1 . P r o p y l Paraben 0.10 Part C : 12.Fragrance 0.20 Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . P a r t A - I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e , add i t e m 1 t o 4 and h e a t t o 60C. U s i n g a homomixer, add i t e m 5 s l o w l y t o a v o i d lumps and m i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l homogeneous. Heat t o 80C. 2. P a r t B - I n a s e p e r a t e v e s s e l , add i t e m s 6 t o 11 and h e a t t o 80C. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y m e l t e d and homogeneous. 3. M i x P a r t B s l o w l y i n P a r t A a t 80C u s i n g sweep b l a d e s . 4 . Cool t o 50C. Add P a r t C , m i x and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . 5 . V i s c o s i t y o f l o t i o n a f t e r 24 h o u r s s h o u l d b e 9100 c p s . F o r m u l a TS-246 Soft Hand Lotion % b y Weiaht M a t e r i a1 s : 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 84.1 2 . B e n t o n e LT r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 0.5 3. G l y c e r i n e 2.5 4. Triethanolamine 0.7 5 . M e t h y l Paraben 0.1 6 . C e r a p h y l 424 1.5 1.o 7. I s o c e t y l S t e a r a t e 8. Acetol 1.7 4.0 9. Stearic Acid 1 0 . Lexemul 55G 3.4 11 . V o l a t i l e S i l i c o n e 7158 0.2 0.1 1 2 . P r o p y l Paraben 13.Fragrance 0.2 Manufacturing Directions: 1 . U s i n g v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , add t h e E e n t o n e LT t o t h e w a t e r . M i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s . 2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s 3 t h r o u g h 5 t o S t e p 1, h e a t t o 80C. 3 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , combine i n g r e d i e n t s 6 , 7 , 8 , 9 , 1 0 and 12 Heat t o 80C. 4. Add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Water Phase. 5 . Cool t o 50C, t h e n add i n g r e d i e n t s 11 and 1 3 . 6 . Cool t o 35C and package. F o r m u l a TS-287 SOURCE: Rheox, I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
272
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand and Body Lotion
%
Part 1: Water Carbomer 934 Part 2: Modul an IPP Amerchol L-101 GMS SE Rosswax 63-041 2 IPM Jojoba O i l Part 3: Germaben I I E P a r t 4: Fragrance Part 5: Triethanolamine
78.6 0.2 1.6 3.8 0.8 2.1 4.0 4.0 1.6 1.o q.s
2.3
Procedure: P a r t A: D i s p e r s e t h e Carbomer 934 i n t h e w a t e r phase i n a s t a i n l e s s steel kettle. P a r t B: I n a s e p a r a t e h e a t e d k e t t l e , h e a t t h e o i l phase u n t i l a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e m e l t e d . When e v e r y t h i n g i s m e l t e d add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Water Phase. When e v e r y t h i n g i s b l e n d e d add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e , t h e f r a g r a n c e and t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e w i t h i n c r e a s e d a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and package. Jojoba Lotion Part A: Modul an Amerchol L-101 Isopropyl Palmitate G l y c e r y l Mono S t e a r a t e Pure Rosswax 63-0412 Isopropyl Myri s t a t e Ross J o j o b a O i 1 P a r t 0: Water G l y c e r i n e Pure Emery 916 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne
% 1 0.8
.s
5.0
2.1 4.0 4.0 1.6 74.4 4.2 2.3
Procedure: Heat P a r t ( A ) and P a r t (B) i n s e p a r a t e v e s s e l s t o 170F under a g i t a t i o n . When t e m p e r a t u r e i s r e a c h e d m i x P a r t ( A ) t o P a r t ( B ) , and c o o l . Package i n c o n t a i n e r a t b e l o w 120F. SOURCE:
Frank B. Ross C o . ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions
273
High Petrolatum Lotion
High petrolatum for severely dry, chapped or chafed skin.
%w/w
Phase: White P r oto p et I S Crodamol PMP Voloo 3
O i l
30.00 10.00 2.30
Water Phase A : Dei o n i zed Water Carbopol 9 4 1 1 0 % Sodi um H y d r o x i de Sol u t i on
46.35 0.13 0.52
Water Phase B : Glycerin V o l p o s-10 Germaben I 1
5.00 5.70 qs
Procedure: Water Phase A : Charge a v e s s e l w i t h w a t e r and d u s t i n t h e carbomer. S t a r t h e a t i n g t o 80C. When c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d , add t h e sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g . Water Phase B : Combine components i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l and m i x , h e a t t o 8 0 C . When u n i f o r m , add t o w a t e r phase A . O i l Phase: Combine a l l components o f t h e o i l phase, m i x and h e a t t o 8 0 C . When u n i f o r m , add t h e combined w a t e r phases s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Low Irritation Moisturizing Lotion D i s o d i urn 1 a u r y l s u l f o s u c c i n a t e Glycerin Methylparaben Cetyl alcohol Carnation M i neral O i 1 Methyl phenyl p o l y s i loxane Beeswax Water
0.30% 5.00 0.20 2.00 20.00 2.00 0.20 q . s . t o 100.00
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formulations
274
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hydroalcoholic Mineral Oil Emulsion
w
I n a r ed ie n t s :
8.00 1 .oo 2.28 1.72
L i g h t mineral o i l Stearyl alcohol B r i j 721, S t e a r e t h - 2 1 B r i j 72, Steareth-2
66.00 0.40
Water, d e i o n i z e d Carbomer 934 Sodium H y d r o x i d e S o l u t i o n (10%)
0.40
*Preservative
0.00
Fragrance
0.20
Ethanol *q.s.
,
SDA-40,
( 190 P r o o f )
20.00
these ingredients.
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( 6 ) t o 75C w i t h good p o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n Add ( C ) b e l o w 50C and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add t h e remai n i ng phases below 35C. R e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t on. Package. Mineral Oil Lotion Inqredients: A Mineral o i l A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g . m . s .
80.00
B
Water, d e i o n i zed *Preservative
C
* M i l d a c i d t o a d j u s t pH *q.
w 10.00 10.00
s , t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 6OC. Heat (B) t o 62C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h t h o r o u g h b u t g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Cool t o 25C w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g .
SOURCE:
IC1
Surfactants:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions
275
Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion Innredients : A S t e a r i c acid, t r i p l e pressed Stearyl alcohol Cetyl alcohol B r i j 721s S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s .
B
Water, d e i o n i zed EDTA Phenacet in
C
Hydrogen p e r o x i d e ,
D
*Phosphoric a c i d ,
10.00 0.50 1 .oo 5.00 0.50 51 . 0 6 0.20 0.04
27% d i u t i o n g r a d e
10% C . P
22.20 9.50
* q . s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and (6) t o 65C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) b e l o w 35C. Replace w a t e r l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 w i t h d i l u t e p h o s p h o r i c a c i d (10% C . P . ) . Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b l e e v o l u t i on o f oxygen. Formula HC-14 Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion Inqredients: A Cetyl alcohol B r i j 52 B r i j 58
4.00 1.50 3.50
B
Water,
deionized
C
Hydrogen p e r o x i d e ,
D
P h o s p h o r i c a c i d (1O%C>P> as r e q u i r e d
73.06 35% d l u t i o n g r a d e
17.14
Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compensate f o r l o s t w a t e r due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add ( C ) . A d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 b y a d d i n g (0).
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
276
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Isopropyl Myristate Lotion
% B
Innredients: I s o p r o p y l myri s t a t e A r l a c e l 60 A r l a s o l v e 200L
10.00 1.60 3.33
Water, d e i o n i z e d C a r b o p o l 934
84.07 0.40
Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W / W
aqueous)
0.40
D o w i c i l 200
0.10
Fragrance
0.10
. .
*q s
t h e s e in g r e d i ents
.
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 65C and ( B ) t o 60C. Add (A) t o ( B ) s l o w l y w i t h m o d e r a t e a n c h o r t y p e a g i t a t i o n and add ( C ) . Add ( D ) a t a b o u t 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C and add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o evaporation. Formula PC 8186 Vanishing Lotion
w
Inqredients: A Arlamol I S M L Stearyl alcohol S i l i c o n e o i l (350 c s ) Arlamol E B r i j 700 B r i j 72
4.00 1 .oo 0.50 1 .oo 2.00 2.00
79.05 10.00 0.15
B
Water, d e i o n i zed Veegum (5% aqueous s o l u t i o n ) C a r b o p o l 934
C
Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% aqueous)
0.15
D
Germall I 1
0.10
E
H e r b a l F r a g r a n c e SL 79-1224,
PFW
0.05
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( 8 ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add (D) b e l o w 50C. Add (E) a t 35C and add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . SOURCE:
I C 1 Surfactants:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions
277
Lanolin & Aloe Lotion L o t i o n s have a w i d e r a n g e o f a p p l i c a t i o n s i n t o d a y ' s c o s m e t i c m a r k e t . I d e a l l y t h e y s h o u l d l e a v e a smooth l u x u r i o u s a f t e r f e e l t o t h e s k i n and h e l p a l l e v i a t e such p r o b l e m s as d r y s k i n o r c h a p p i n g f r o m w i n d and s u n b u r n . SC-188 i s an e c o n o m i c a l l o t i o n w h i c h a c h i e v e s b o t h ends. Crodamol PTC, a n o n - o i l y e s t e r w h i c h g i v e s a "cushiony" f e e l a t low l e v e l s o f a d d i t i o n , a l s o works w i t h t h e l a n o l i n and l a n o l i n d e r i v e d p r o d u c t s t o l e a v e a s a t i n y , n o n - g r e a s y , p r o t e c t i v e f i l m on t h e s k i n . I n q r e d ie n t s : Part A: Super R e f i n e d Babassu O i l (Babassu O i l ) Corona P u r e New L a n o l i n ( L a n o l i n ) C r o d a c o l CS-50 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) Super S t e r o l E s t e r (C10-30 C h o l e s t e r o l / L a n o s t e r o l E s t e r s ) Crodamol PTC ( P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a c a p r y l a t e / C a p r a t e ) C r o d a c o l C-95 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) Crodarnol MM ( M y r i s t y l M y r i s t a t e ) I n c r o p o l CS-20 ( C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 ) M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) S t e a r i c A c i d XXX S i l i c o n e L-45 (1OOcps) P r o p y l Paraben Part B: D e i o n i z e d Water Glycerin V e r a g e l 200 Powder M e t h y l Paraben Carbopol 941 D o w i c i l 200 PEG-1 5 Cocami ne
E! 2.00 2.00 1.50 1.00 0.80 0.50 0.50 1 .oo 4.00
0.50 0.30 0.15 81 - 5 5 3.00 0.50 0.30 0.10 0.10 0.20
Procedure: Dust t h e C a r b o p o l 941 o f P a r t B i n t o t h e w a t e r w i t h m i x i n g . When c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B and h e a t t o 75-8OC. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-80C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h good m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e . A d j u s t pH w i t h 1 . 0 % NaOH. pH: 6 . 0 + - 0 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 7,500+-10% (RVT S p i n d l e #5, N . A . T . C . Approved
SOURCE: Croda I n c . :
F o r m u l a t i o n SC-188-2
20 rpm @ 25C)
278
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Lotion Inaredients: A Stearyl alcohol B r i j 7215 S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s . B Water, d e i o n i zed C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 27% d i l u t i o n g r a d e
w 8.00 4.00 0.50 65.30 22.20
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and ( B ) t o 65C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) b e l o w 35C. Replace w a t e r l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 w i t h d i l u t e p h o s p h o r i c Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i net- f o r p o s s i b l e a c i d (10% C . P . ) e v o l u t i o n o f oxygen. Formula PC-8202
.
Lotion Ingredients: A Cetyl alcohol B r i j 7215 Si1;cone o i l , 350 c s . B Water, d e i o n i zed Sorbo C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 27% d i l u t i o n g r a d e
w 3.00 3.00 0.50 66.30 5.00 22.20
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and ( B ) t o 65C. Add (B) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) b e l o w 35C. Replace w a t e r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 w i t h d i l u t e p h o s p h o r i c a c i d (10% C . P . ) . Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b l e e v o l u t i o n o f oxygen. Formula PC-8203
Glossy Lotion Ingredients: A Mineral o i 1, Carnation Stearyl alcohol B r i j 721s B r i j 72 B Water, d e i o n i zed C D o w i c i l 200 D Fragrance
w 8.00 1-00 2.00 2.00 86.80 0.10 0.10
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C w i t h good p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n Add (C) a t 50C and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add ( D ) a t 35C. Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .
SOURCE:
I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions
279
Low Solids Almond Lotion II P a r t s b y Wei q h t 568. Ogr 2.0gr. 4.0gr. 4.0gr. 16.0gr. 16.0gr. 4.0gr. 4.0gr. 6.0gr. q.s.
.
Water Carbomer 934 Rosswax 573 GMS SE Almond O i 1 - L i p o v a l A1M Coconut O i l #76 Jojoba O i l TEA P r e s e r v a t i v e Germaben I 1 F r a g r a n c e GG44
Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r t o 60C under a g i t a t i o n and s l o w l y add t h e Carbomer 934. When t h e w a t e r i s f u l l y m i x e d add t h e 573, GMS, Almond O i l , Coconut O i l , and J o j o b a O i l t h a t have been h e a t e d t o 65C i n a s e p a r a t e k e t t l e . As soon as t h e y have been m i x e d w e l l add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e , t h e f r a g r a n c e and t h e n t h e TEA u n d e r h i g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t h e b a t c h t o 55C, and package. Peach Hand Lotion Water Carbomer 934 Rosswax 573 GMS-SE Almond O i 1 L i p o v a l ALM Coconut O i l #76 Ross J o j o b a O i l TEA Germaben I 1 F r a g r a n c e GK-16
P a r t s by Wei n h t 568. Ogr 2.Ogr 4.0gr 4 . Ogr 16.0gr 16.0gr 4. Ogr 4 , Ogr 6.0gr q.s.
Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r t o 60C u n d e r a g i t a t i o n and s l o w l y add t h e Carbomer 934. When t h e w a t e r i s f u l l y m i x e d add t h e 573, GMS, Almond O i l , Coconut O i l , and J o j o b a O i l t h a t have been h e a t e d t o 65C i n a s e p a r a t e k e t t l e . As soon a s t h e O i l Phase has been m i x e d w e l l , add t h e Germaben 11, t h e F r a g r a n c e , and t h e n t h e TEA u n d e r h i g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 55C f o r f i l l i n g .
SOURCE:
F r a n k B.
Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
280
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Milk Lotion Liquid Petrolatum Amiter LG-OD Propylene Glycol Monostearate POE (5) Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Emalex HC-5)* POE (5) Glyceryl Monostearate (Emalex G M - 5 ) * Butyl Paraben Amihope LL
4.7
Acylglutamate HS-11 1,3-Butylene Glycol Methyl Paraben
0.3
2.2 0.4
1.3 2.8 0.1
3.0 5.0 0.2
Carboxyvi nyl Polymer Water
0.2 79.72
Sodi um Hydroxi de (NaOH) *Nihon Emulsion Co.
0.08
Procedure:
1 . Dissolve (A) at 80C. Dissolve (C), and then neutralize with ( 0 ) . 3 . Add (B) to # 2 and dissolve at 80C. 4 . Add #3 slowly to (A) as mixing, and then cool to 30C 2.
Note:
his m i l k
otion has light touch, and spreads well. Milk Lotion
Mineral Oil Amiter LGOD Propylene G1 ycol Stearate PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil PEG-5 G1 yceryl Stearate Butyl Paraben Amihope LL Acyl glutamate HS-11 Carbomer 9 4 1 Sodi urn Hydroxi de Butylene Glycol Methyl Paraben Water Milk lotion with smooth touch and good spreadability
5.00 2.00
0.50 1.50 2.50 0.10
3.00
0.30 0.20 0.08 5.00 0.20 79.62
Procedure:
Dissolve Carbomer 941 and sodium hydroxide in water first. Add other ingredients o f ( B ) to the solution and dissolve at 75-80 degrees C. Dissolve ( A ) ingredients at 80 degrees C and add (A) to ( B ) with agitation. Cool down to room temperature with agitation. SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, Inc.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions
281
Milk Lotion
g (0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n ( # 7 0 ) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 54-56C) Cetyl Alcohol Isopropyl Palmitate Squal ane N i k k o l WCB Lanolin Polyoxyethylene (10) Lanolin Alcohol P o l y e t h y l e n e G l y c o l (6300) M o n o s t e a r a t e Polyoxyethylene (5) Stearyl Ether Polyoxyethylene (25) Cetyl Ether
10.0 5.0 3.0 2.0 0.5 4.0 0.5 1.o 0.5 2.1 2.9
(W) A j i d e w N-50 Polyethylene Glycol Water Preservative
3.0 3.0 62.5 q.s
-
1500
Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o ( 0 ) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 5 . 3 V i s c o s i t y : 20,000
cps Milk Lotion
g (0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) Beeswax Stearyl Alcohol I s o p a l m i t y l Alcohol Polyoxyethylene (10) Glyceryl T r i i s o s t e a r a t e P o l y o x y e t h y l ene ( 1 5 ) C e t y l E t h e r (W)
1.o
1.5 1.2 2.35 0.8 3.0 79.7
A j i d e w N-50 Water Preservative
Q.S.
Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o ( 0 ) s l o w l y . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 5 . 2 V i scosi t y :
10.45
1,700 c p s
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA,
Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
282
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Mineral Oil Lotion Inqredients: A Mineral o i l , Carnation brand B r i j 72 A r l a s o l v e 200L
20.00 2.70 4.60 71 . 8 0 0.40
B
W a t e r , d e i o n i zed C a r b o p o l 934
C
Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W / W aqueous)
0.40
D
D o w i c i l 200
1 .oo
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add C . Add ( D ) b e l o w 50C. Add (E) a t 35C and add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . F o r m u l a PC-8184 Mineral Oil Lotion-O/W
Inqredients: A Mineral o i l B r i j 52 ( C e t e t h - 2 ) A r l a s o l v e 200 L i q u i d ( I s o c e t e t h - 2 0 ) B
Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 934 A r l as o l ve DMI
C
Sodium h y d r o x i d e - 1 0 % aqueous s o l u t i o n
D
*Preservative *q.s.
o/ow/w 30.00 5.20 6.60 52.80 0.20 5.00 0.20
these i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n t h e w a t e r and A r l a s o l v e D M I w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Heat ( B ) t o 65 d e g . C and ( A ) t o 60 d e g . C . Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) b e l o w 5 0 deg. C . S t i r t o 35 d e g . C and r e p l a c e e v a p o r a t e d w a t e r .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions
283
Mineral Oil Free Lotion Contains Ethanol (20%)
w
Insredients: Arlamol E B r i j 721s B r i j 72 Stearyl alcohol
20.00 2.00 4.00 4.00
A
48.80 0.40
B
Water, d e i o n i zed Carbopol 934
C
Sodium h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % aqueous)
0.40
D
Germall I 1
0.20
E
Fragrance,
F
E t h a n o l , SDA-40 (190 p r o o f )
H 45756 ( P .
Robertet)
0.20
20.00
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y u s i n g b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add (D) when t h e t e m p e r a t u r e d r o p s b e l o w 50C. Add ( E ) b e l o w 40C. Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . Lotion
w
Insredi ents : A Cetyl alcohol B r i j 7215
1-00 1-00
B
Water, d e i o n i z e d Sorbo, S o r b i t o 1 S o l u t i o n USP Carbopol 934
C
Sodium h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % W / W
D
D o w i c i l 200
0.10
E
Fragrance
0.20
aqueous)
95.30 2.00 0.20 0.20
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C. Add (B) t o ( A ) s l o w l y u s i n g p r o p e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add (D) when t h e t e m p e r a t u r e d r o p s b e l o w 50C. Add ( E ) b e l o w 40C. Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Sugeested F o r m u l a t i o n s
284
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisturizing Lotion Phase A : Protopet I S PPG-15 S t e a r y l E t h e r ( A r l a m o l E ) Stearyl Alcohol S t e a r e t h - 2 ( B r i j 72) S t e a r e t h - 2 0 ( B r i j 78) D i m e t h i cone
Percent 2.00 2.00 1.oo 3.00 1.00 0.10
Phase 8 : Water Carbomer 940 ( C a r b o p o l 940)
50.00 0.10
Phase C : P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 9 ( A r l a t o n e PQ220) Water T r i e t h a n o l ami n e
10.00 30.20 0.10
Phase D: Germaben I 1 0.50 Procedure: D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l 940 i n w a t e r ( B ) and h e a t t o 75C. Heat A t o 70C. Add A t o B and m i x u s i n g p r o p e l l e r - t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Heat C t o 70C and add t o AB w i t h t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 60C w i t h a g i t a t i o n and add D . Pomade Lotion O i l Phase: P r o t o p e t IS P e t r o l a t u m Crodamol PMP Volpo 3
Water Phase A : Dei o n i zed Water C a r b o p o l 941 10% Sodium H y d r o x i d e S o l u t i o n
Percent 30.00 10.00 2.30 46.35 0.13 0.52
Water Phase 6: Glycerine 5.00 V o l p o s-10 5.70 Germaben I 1 9,s. Procedure: Water Phase A . Charge a v e s s e l w i t h w a t e r and d u s t i n t h e Carbomer. S t a r t h e a t i n g t o 80C. When c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d , add t h e Sodium H y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g . Combine w a t e r Phase B i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l and m i x and h e a t t o 80C. When u n i f o r m add t o w a t e r Phase A . Combine t h e o i l phase, m i x and h e a t t o 80C. When u n i f o r m add t h e combined w a t e r phases s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g . C o n t i n u e m i x i ng t o room t e m p e r a t u r e , SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formulations
Lotions
285
Neutralizing Lotion
%w y -l
I n q r e d ien t s : A
B C
Forestall B r i j 35 SP Water, d e i o n i z e d * S t a b i 1 iz e r Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 35% *Phosphoric a c i d
1.40
2 .oo
92.30 4.30
* q . s , t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s . Procedure: M i x ( A ) u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add ( 6 ) a t 25 deg. C . A d j u s t pH t o 4 . 5 t o 5 . 0 w i t h ( C ) . O p t i o n a l s t a b i l i z e r s may i n c l u d e s e q u e s t r a n t s or antioxidants. Formula HC-16 Neutralizing Lotion In a r e d i e n t s : A Sodium b r o m a t e B r i j 30 P o l y g l y c o l p a l m i t i c amide Water *Preservative B *Acetic acid, g l a c i a l
*q.s.
12.00 4.50 4.50 79 .oo
these ingredients.
Procedure: Add t h e sodium b r o m a t e t o w a t e r . S t i r w i t h h e a t u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add t h e r e m a i n d e r o f ( A ) . H e a t t o 70-75C. A g i t a t e c o n t i n u a l l y u n t i l c o o l e d t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h ( 6 ) . Package. Formula HC-18 Quick Dry Roll-On Lotion
Ingredients: A C y c l o m e t h i c o n e , DC 344 f l u i d B r i j 52 B r i j 35SP B Water, d e i o n i zed C Aluminum c h l o r h y d r o x i d e , 50% aqueous
w
12.70
3.10 0.90 48.30 35 00 I
Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C and ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add (6) t o (A) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g and s l o w l y add t h e r e m a i n d e r o f in g r e d i e n t s .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
286
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Broad Spectrum Protective Moisturizing Lotion with Vitamins* Ingredients: A ) P a r s o l MCX P a r s o l 1789 P a r s o l 5000 G l y c e r y l Monostearate Cetyl Alcohol Extra Dermol 185 Ganex V-220 P r i s o r i ne 3505 Butylated Hydroxytoluene E d e t a BD Phenoni p Amphisol A E) D e i o n i z e d Water AMP 10% s o l ' n C ) D e i o n i z e d Water Propylene Glycol C a r b o p o l 981 1% s o l ' n D) AMP 10% s o l ' n E) D e i o n i z e d Water P a r s o l HS AMP 10% s o l ' n F) V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e G) Ropufa 25N-6 O i l H ) Panthenol I)Ponceau Red SX 0.2% s o l ' n J) P a r f l e x 49915
w 2.00 1-00 0.60 2.00 2.00 6.00 2.00 2.00 0.05 0.10 0.60 1.50 10.00 3.97 22.26 5.00 10.00 1.02 20.00 0.60 1.80 2.00 2.00 2.00 0.25 0.40**
Procedure: Heat p a r t A ) t o 85C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . When homogeneous, add p a r t s B),C) and D) p r e - h e a t e d t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g . Add P a r t E ) p r e - h e a t e d t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g ( b e s u r e t h a t t h e P a r s o l HS has been c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , i f t r a c e s r e m a i n , add a s m a l l q u a n t i t y o f t h e n e u t r a l i z i n g base u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r ) . Cool t o 40C, add p a r t s F ) , G ) , H , I)and J). Compensate f o r w a t e r loss and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e . Remark : * W h i l e n o t a s u n s c r e e n , t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n s c o r e d an SPF E when t e s t e d a c c o r d i n g t o t h e FDA/OTC method ( r a n g e - f i n d i n g assay on s i x s u b j e c t s : I R I R e f . 582627). * * D e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d p e r f u m e f o r s u n s c r e e n s . The f i n a l pH v a l u e s h o u l d be a r o u n d 7 . 0 t o p r e v e n t r e c r y s t a l l i z a t i o n o f P a r s o l HS.
SOURCE:
Givaudan-Roure:
F o r m u l a t i o n 08 COS 029
Lotions
287
O/W Lotion
%. W t
2.0
1 . A-C Copolymer 580 2 . Mineral Oil (70 ss)
3. Dow 556 Fluid 4. Propyl ene G1 ycol Di pel argonate 5 . Amerchol 400 6 . Ethoxyol 24 7. Arlacel 60 8. Tween 60 9. Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
5.0 1 .o 10.0 2.0 1 .o 1 .o 2.0 0.1 5.0 0.5 0.2 0.75 69.45
10 Sorbi to1 (70%) 1 1 Carbopol 941 12.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
13.Triethanolamine 14.Water
Procedure: Disperse Carbopol in water. Weigh 1-9 and heat to 80-9OC with slow agitation. Add remai ni n g i ngredi ents to Carbopol /water dispersion, except triethanolamine, and heat to 80-9OC. Add the water phase to the aqueous phase and shear in homomixer. Continue shearing while cooling to 40C, then add triethanolamine, mixing well. Cool to 30C, add perfume, de-aerate and package. Ref: 5189-2-7
O/W Lotion
wt-,o/, 1 . A-C Copolymer 580 2 . Distilled Isopropyl Lanolate
3. Dow 556 Fluid 4. Propylene Glycol Di pel argonate 5. Ethoxyol 24 6 . Arlacel 60 7. Tween 60 8 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
9. Sorbitol (70%) 10.Carbopol 941 1 1 . Triethanolamine 12.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 13.Water
2.0 3.0 2.0 13.0 1 .o 1 .o 2.0 0.1 5.0 0.5
0.75 0.2
69.45
Procedure: Disperse Carbopol in water. Weigh 1-8 and heat to 80-9OC with slow agitation. Add remaining ingredients to Carbopol/water dispersion, except triethanolamine, and heat to 80-9OC. Add the water phase to the aqueous phase and shear in homomixer. Continue shearing while cooling to 40C, then add triethanolamine, mixing well. Cool to 30C, add perfume, de-aerate and package. Ref: 51 89-2-8 SOURCE: Allied Signal Inc.: Suggested Formulations
288
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Lotion
1 . A-C Polyethylene 617 2. A-C Copolymer 540 3. Mineral Oil (70 s s ) 4. Dow 556 Fluid 5. Propylene G1 ycol D i pel argonate 6. Hydroxy01 7. Ethoxyol 24 8. Arlacel 60 9. Tween 60 10.Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
11.Sorbitol (70%) 12.Carbopol 941 13 Germall 115
Wt . % 1 .o 1
.o
5.0 1
.o
10.5 2.0 1 .0 1.3 1.8 0.1
5 0 0.25 0.4 0.2 0.75
14.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
15 .Triethanolamine 16.Water 68.8 Procedure: Disperse Carbopol in water. Weigh 1-10 and heat to 80-9OC with slow agi tat1 on. Add remai ni ng i ngredi ents to Carbopol/ water dispersion, except triethanolamine, and heat o 80-9OC. Add the wax phase to the aqueous phase and shear i n homomixer. Continue shearing while cooling to 40C, then add tr ethanolamine, mixing well Cool to 30C, add perfume, deaerate and package. Ref : 51 89-2-5 O/W Lotion
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
A-C Copolymer 540 Mineral Oil, 70 ss Glycerine Isopropyl Palmitate Anhydrous Lanolin Arlacel 165 Propyl -P-Hydroxybenzoate
a . TEA 9. Tween 60 1O.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 1 1 .Germall 115
Wt . % 2.0 10.0 5.0 10.0 3.0 5.0 0.1
3.0 1 .0 0.2 0.2 60.5
12.Water Procedure: Weigh 1-7 and heat to 85-95C. If higher solvating temperatures are used, solvation will be much faster. Hold wax blend at 85-95C. Weigh 9-12 and heat to 90-95C. Place aqueous phase in mixing container, add wax phase, and shear in homomixer or equivalent. Cool to 40C while shearing. Add perfume and package. Ref: 501 1-38-9 SOURCE: Allied Signal I n c . : Suggested Formulations
Lotions
289
O/W Lotion with α-Hydroxy Acids Inqredi ents: Phase A : C e t e a r e t h - 1 5 ( a n d ) G l y c e r o l S t e a r a t e (Tego Care 215) Mineral O i l O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( T e g o s o f t CT) S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (Tego A l k a n o l 1 8 )
6.0 4.0 5.0 5.0 5.0
Phase 0: G1 y c e r i n Water
3.0 62.0
Phase C : *-Hydroxy A c i d s (20%)* Perfume, P r e s e r v a t i v e s
10.0 Q.S.
* s o l u t i o n c o n t a i n s 10% c i t r i c a c i d and 10% m a l i c a c i d . pH i s a d j u s t e d t o pH 3-3.5 w i t h NaOH. Procedure: Heat A and B t o 65C and m i x . Homogenize. Cool w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 40C. Add Phase C and c o o l t o 30C o r l o w e r . O/W Lotion Cold/Cold Process
Ingredients: Phase A : PEG-25 G l y c e r y l T r i o l e a t e ( T a g a t TO) Mineral O i l O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) Phase B: Water Glycerin P r e s e r v a t ives
%w/w 2.0 5.5 5.5 5.5 76.3 3.0 Q.S.
Phase C : Carbomer 934 Mineral O i l
0.3 1.2
Phase D: NaOH (10% s o l u t i o n )
0.7
Procedure: 1 . Homogenize A + 8, o i l p a r t i c l e s i z e t1.0 urn. 2 . Add C and D, s t i r i n t e n s i v e l y f o r 30 m i n u t e s . Temperature o f t h e Phases A, B, C, D: a r e 20-25C. SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
290
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Oil-In-Water Body Care Lotion
%w/w
Ingredients: A r l a t o n e 985 B r i j 721 A r l a m o l HD Almond o i 1
4.00 2.00 10.00 3.00
A
B
C
1.25 1 .25 1.oo
G-2330 Propylene g l y c o l A1 p a n t h a Water
74.00
*Perfume *Preservative *q s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s . I
Procedure: Heat ( A ) and ( B ) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add ( B ) t o ( A ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g v i g o r o u s l y . Homogenize a r o u n d 40C. Remove f r o m t h e homogenizer and a l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add ( C ) and c o o l t o 30C. Package. Oil/Water Foundation Lotion Ingredients: A r l a c e l 165 C e t y l a1 coho1 Lanol i n Triethanolamine l a u r y l s u l f a t e Water, d e i o n i z e d
%w/w 6.00 0.50 0.50 1 .oo 92.00
Procedure: Heat i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r t o 9OC. Use c o n t i n u o u s v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n t o form t h e emulsion. Continue a g i t a t i o n u n t i l t e m p e r a t u r e d r o p s b e l o w 60 d e g . C . Oil/Water Foundation Lotion
Inqredients: S y n t h e t i c spermaceti, A r l a c e l 165
A
B
Spermwax
Glycerin Water, d e i o n i z e d *Preservative * q q . s . these i n g r e d i e n t s .
% & 4 J 5.00 12.00
5.00 78.00
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add w a t e r l o s t due t o evaporation. SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions
291
Oil/Water Emollient Lotion
%w/w
Ingredi ents : A
O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA Benzophenone-3 Arlamol E Stearyl alcohol Dimethicone A r l a s o l v e 200 B r i j 72
B
W a t e r , d e i o n i zed Carbomer 934
C
Sodium h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % W / W aqueous)
D
*Preservative *Fragrance *q,s.
7.00 3.00 7.00 2.50 1-00 3.10 3.90 72.10 0.20 0.20
these i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n w a t e r and h e a t ( 8 ) t o 60C. Heat ( A ) t o 65C and add ( 8 ) t o (A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add ( C ) and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 50C and add makeup w a t e r . Oil/Water Emollient Lotion
Ingredients: O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA Arlamol E Stearyl alcohol D i m e t h i cone A r l a s o l v e 200 B r i j 72
o/ow/w
Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 934
77.10 0.20
S o d i urn h y d r o x i de ( 10% W / W aqueous)
5.00 7.00 2.50 1.00 3.10 3.90
0.20
*Preservative *Fragrance * q . s . these ingredients.
Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n w a t e r and h e a t ( 8 ) t o 60C. Heat ( A ) t o 65C and add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add ( C ) and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 50C and add makeup w a t e r .
SOURCE:
IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
292
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Perfumed Body Lotion T h i s creamy body l o t i o n r u b s i n e a s i l y and r e l i e v e s d r y n e s s . S k i n i s l e f t f e e l i n g s o f t , smooth, and m o i s t u r i z e d . Geahlene enhances t h e r i c h n e s s and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h i s l o t i on. I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: D e i o n i z e d Water Carbomer/CarboDol 940 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Methylparaben Panthenol/DL-Panthenol
Wei a h t % 67.20 0.20 7.00 0.20 0.10
M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Butylene/Ethylene/ S t y r e n e Copolymer (and) H y d r o g e n a t e d E t h y l e n e / P r o p y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer//Geahlene 750 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l Dicaprylate/Dicaprate//Myritol PC I s o s t e a r y l A l c o h o l / P r i s o r i n e 3515 Propylparaben C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 16 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e / A r l a c e l 165 Dimethicone/Dow C o r n i n g 200, 100 c S t P o t a s s i u m C e t y l Phosphate/Amphisol K Tocopheryl Acetate/Vitamin E Acetate
7.00 7.00 2.00 0.10 2.00 2.50 0.50 1.75 0.10
T r i e t h a n o l ami ne, 99%
0.15
D i azo1 id i n y l Urea/Germal 1 II
0.20
Soy L e c i t h i n / S e d e r m a s o m e Fragrance
1 .oo 1 .oo
Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n t o r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . Add r e m a i n i n g p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat t o 75-80C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m and l u m p - f r e e . Combine p a r t B. Heat t o 80C and m i x u n t i l a l l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . M i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add p a r t C . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y smooth and homogeneous. Cool t o 50C. Add p a r t D . Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t E . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 30C.
SOURCE:
Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
293
Lotions
Silk Protein Skin Lotion 1. Mineral O i l 2 . M a c k e s t e r SP ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e M o d i f i e d ) 3 . E m u l s i f y i n g Wax N.F. 4 . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e i3 PEG-100 S t e a r a t e 5 . P o l y s o r b a t e 80 6. S o r b i t a n P a l m i t a t e 7. G l y c e r i n 8 . A c e t a m i d e MEA 100% 9 . Mackpro NSP ( O l e y l / P a l m i t y l / P a l m i t o l e a m i d o p r o p y l / S i l k h y d r o x y p r o p y l Dimonium C h l o r i d e ) 1 O . M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) 11. F r a g r a n c e 12. D e i o n i zed Water
Wei Qht . % 3.00 2.00 3.00 2.00 0.66 0.60 2.00 1 .oo 2.50 qs qs
qs
Procedure: 1. M e l t 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8, i n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r t o 75 d e g r e e s C . 2 . I n t h e m i x i n g t a n k h e a t t h e w a t e r #12 t o 78 d e g r e e s C . and add #9. 3 . S t a r t m i x i n g and add t h e h o t m i x t u r e o f 1 t h r u 8 s l o w l y w i t h good a g i t a t i o n a n d m i x w e l l f o r 20 m i n u t e s . 4. Then s t a r t s l o w c o o l i n g w i t h good m i x i n g w i t h o u t a e r a t i o n . 5 . A t 45 d e g r e e s C . add #10 and #11 and m i x i n . 6 . Check pH and a d j u s t i f needed t o 4 . 8 - 5 . 8 . 7. Mix u n t i l c o o l . Pearlescent Bath Lotion Sodi um L a u r y l Sul f a t e Mackanate EL ( D i s o d i urn L a u r e t h S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) Mackam 35 HP ( C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) M a c k e s t e r SP ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e M o d i f i e d ) Sodium C h l o r i d e M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o Procedure: 1 . Add f i r s t f o u r components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 70C. 2 . B l e n d u n t i l EGMS i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . 3 . Add sodium c h l o r i d e and c o o l t o 45C. 4. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e , f r a g r a n c e and d y e . 5 . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and f i l l . SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group
Ltd.: P e r s o n a l Care F o r m u l a r y
Wei a h t ,% 40.0 30.0 5.0 1.5 1.o
0.5 100.0
294
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Care Body Lotion T h i s p r o d u c t i m p a r t s good s k i n f e e l and has a h i g h q u a l i t y appearance, t h o u g h t h e p r o d u c t i o n i s c o s t e f f e c t i v e . There a r e a l s o b a r r i e r and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s w h i c h a c t as a h i g h l y e f f e c t i v e h y d r a t i o n system f o r a l l s k i n t y p e s . A f o r m u l a o f t h i s t y p e a1 so he1p r e d u c e t r a n s e p i dermal w a t e r 1oss
.
O i l Phase: C e t y l s t e a r y l A l c o h o l 161 8 (P&G) NF W h i t e Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) L i g h t Mineral O i l (Witco) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Amerchol L l O l (Amerchol ) P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i 11ed) G l y c e r i n e (Unichema) P o l y e t h y l e n e G l y c o l 1450 ( U n i o n C a r b i d e ) C a r b o x y m e t h y l C e l l u l o s e (CMC, H e r c u l e s ) C a r b o p o l 940 (BF G o o d r i c h ) Sodium B o r a t e ( B o r a x ) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (Dow) M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n )
3.50% 1.50% 4.00% 1 .OO%
2.00%
0.20% 76.05% 6.00% 3.50%
0.30% 0.25% 0.50% 0 * 20% 0.20%
Procedure: Add t o t h e w a t e r phase under a g i t a t i o n , i n o r d e r ; CMC u n t i l d i s s o l v e d , t h e n p r o p y l p a r a b e n w h i l e m i x i n g . Add c a r b o p o l , m i x t i l l homogeneous making s u r e t h e r e a r e no a g g l o m e r a t i o n s . Then t h e r e m a i n d e r o f t h e w a t e r phase components c a n be added, m i x and h e a t t o 75C. Add a l l t h e o i l phase components, h e a t t i l l 75C. and m i x . Add s l o w l y t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase u n d e r a g i t a t i o n m a i n t a i n i n g a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C. When t h e o i l phase i s added, c o o l and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r . A d a p t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : By r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f m i n e r a l o i l by 2.0%, p o l y e t h y l e n e g l y c o l 1000 by 0 . 5 % and t h e a d d i t i o n o f 2.5% E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) t h e cream w i l l t a k e on an SPF o f 6-8. The p r o d u c t has t h e same appearance, s k i n f e e l and s t a b i l i t y . F r a g r a n c e c a n a l s o be added w i t h o u t a f f e c t i n g t e x t u r e .
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Lotions
295
Skin Moisturizing Lotion Phase A : Percent P o l y p e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a l a u r a t e ( M i r a n o l E s t e r PO-LM4) 4.00 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG 100 S t e a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 165) 5.00 3.50 Carnation M i neral O i 1 Isopropyl Myristate 2.00 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i p e l a r g o n a t e (Emerest 2388) 1-00 Beeswax 2.00 Stearic Acid 1 .oo Stearyl Alcohol 0.50 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e (Dow C o r n i n g F l u i d 344) 0.50 Phase 8 : Water Carbomer 934, 3% s o l u t i o n ( C a r b o p o l 934) Propylene Glycol
67-70 7.50
3.50
Phase C : Triethanolamine
0.80
Phase D: Germaben 1 1 - E
1-00
Procedure: Heat Phase A & Phase 8 s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C and add B t o A w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Then add Phase C . Cool t o 40C and add Phase D. Dry Skin Lotion Phase A : Cetyl Alcohol E s t o l EHP 1543 T r i v e n t NP-13 Carnation Mineral O i 1 DC S i l i c o n e B r i j 58 B r i j 20 Phase 8 : Dei o n i zed w a t e r Carbopol 940 Dermacryl-79 P r i c e r i ne 9083 T r ie t h a n o l ami n e (99%) Phase C : Germaben I 1 E
2.00% 2.00 4.00 1 .oo 1 .oo 1 .oo 1.oo
81.50 0.50 1 .oo 3.00 1 .oo
1 .oo
Phase D: Fragrance
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formulations
q.s.
296
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin Softening Lotion *% G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 3.00 G l y c e r y l D i l a u r a t e (Lexemul GDL) 5.00 C e t e a r y l A1 coho1 (and) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 (Lexemul CS-20) 3.00 4.00 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ( L e x o l PG-865) Mineral O i l 2.50 P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d P) 0.10 B . G l y c e r i n USP 3.00 D e i o n i z e d Water 76.13 0.25 M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d M) C . Quaternium-76 H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ( L e x e i n QX-3000) 3.00 D. 2-Bromo-2-Ni t r o p r o p a n e - 1 ,3-Di 01 ( L e x g a r d B r o n o p o l ) 0.02 Procedure: 1 . Heat phase "A" and phase "B" t o 75C. 2. Add phase "A" t o phase "B" w i t h good a g i t a t i o n a t 75C. 3 . C o n t i n u e t o m i x w i t h good a g i t a t i o n and c o o l t o 50C. 4 . Add phase "C" t o "AB" and m i x t i l l homogeneous. 5 . When phase "ABC" i s b e l o w 50C add phase "D". 6 . C o n t i n u e s a g i t a t i o n and c o o l t o 30C, t h e n f i l l .
A.
Formula 297-86 Skin Lotion T h i s m o i s t u r i z i n g l o t i o n a p p l i e s e f f o r t l e s s l y . The L e x o r e z 100 adds an e l e g a n t s k i n f e e l w h i c h a l s o may a c t as a p r o t e c t a n t aid.
9&& A . O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( L e x o l EHS) 7.50 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 3 . 5 0 G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer 2.00 ( L e x o r e z 100) P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d P) 0.05 B. Carbomer ( C a r b o p o l 941) 0.30 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e NF (99%) 0.20 M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d M) 0.15 Dei o n i zed Water 86.30 Procedure: 1 . Heat w a t e r t o 70C and combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase " B q l . M i x u n t i l a l l o f t h e Carbomer i s i n s o l u t i o n . 2 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , m e l t components q f phase " A " t o g e t h e r . Heat t o 70C. 3 . S l o w l y add phase " A " t o phase "B" w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M i x w e l l u n t i l homogeneous. 4 . Begin t o c o o l . Continue a g i t a t i o n u n t i l m i x t u r e i s a t ambient temperature then f i l l . 5 . A d j u s t f o r w a t e r loss. F o r m u l a SK-114
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions
297
Soft & Silky Lotion
Part (A): Rosswax 63-0412 Rosswax 1641 Rosswax 63-0212 GMS-SE Ross L o t i o n O i l 2745
Part
1.6 1.2 1.o 2.1 9.4
(e):
78.0 4.7
Water Propylene G l yco l Germaben I 1 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne
1.o
1.o
P a r t (C): Fragrance
q.s.
Procedure: Heat P a r t ( A ) and P a r t ( B ) t o 170F i n s e p a r a t e steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s under a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y h e a t e d , add P a r t ( A ) t o P a r t (B) under a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 130F, F r a g r a n c e and package. Low Cost Low Solids Lotion Water Carbomer 934 Rosswax 573 GMS SE Jojoba O i 1 Dow C o r n i n g S i l i c o n e 344 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e Germaben I 1
P a r t s bv Wei q h t 500.0gr. 4.0gr. 4.0gr. 4.0gr. 3.0gr. 6.0gr. 4.0gr. q.s. 9,s.
Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r under a g i t a t i o n and s l o w l y add t h e Carbomer 934. When f u l l y m i x e d add t h e 573, GMS, J o j o b a O i l and S i l i c o n e have been b l e n d e d i n a s e p a r a t e k e t t l e m a i n t a i n i n g a t e m p e r a t u r e of 140F. As soon as a l l t h e i n g r e d i e n t s have been m i x e d w e l l add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e s , t h e Perfume, and add t h e TEA, under h i g h a g i t a t i o n , c o o l t o 1 2 0 F and package.
SOURCE: F r a n k 8 . Ross Co.,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
298
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Strawberry Hand Lotion P a r t s b v Wei qht 568. Ogr 2 . Ogr 4. Ogr 16.0gr 4.0gr 16.0gr 4.0gr 4. Ogr 6 . Ogr q.s.
Water Carbomer 934 GMS-SE Apricot O i l Lipoval P Rosswax 573 Coconut O i l #76 Ross J o j o b a O i 1 TEA Germaben I 1 F r a g r a n c e DO-60
Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r t o 60C u n d e r a g i t a t i o n and s l o w l y add t h e Carbomer 934. When t h e w a t e r i s f u l l y m i x e d , add t h e 573, GMS, A p r i c o t O i l , Coconut O i l and J o j o b a O i l t h a t have been h e a t e d t o 65C i n a s e p a r a t e k e t t l e . A s soon as t h e o i l phase has been m i x e d w e l l , add t h e Germaben 11, t h e f r a g r a n c e , and t h e n t h e TEA u n d e r h i g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 55C f o r f i l l i n g . Apricot Hand Lotion Water Carbomer 934 GMS-SE Apricot Oil-Lipoval Rosswax 573 Coconut O i l #76 Ross J o j o b a O i l TEA Germaben I 1 F r a g r a n c e GK-17
P a r t s b y Wei q h t 568. Ogr 2 . Ogr 4 . Ogr 16.0gr 4. Ogr 16.0gr 4.0gr 4. Ogr 6 Ogr 9,s.
P
Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r t o 60C under a g i t a t i o n and s l o w l y add t h e Carbomer 934. When t h e w a t e r i s f u l l y mixed, add t h e 573, GMS, A p r i c o t O i l , Coconut O i l and J o j o b a O i l t h a t have been h e a t e d t o 65C i n a s e p a r a t e k e t t l e . As soon a s t h e O i l Phase has been m i x e d w e l l , add t o t h e Water Phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y m i x e d , add t h e Germaben I 1 and t h e n t h e TEA u n d e r h i g h a g i t a t i o n , t h e n f r a g r a n c e . Cool t o 55C f o r f i l l i n g .
SOURCE:
Frank 8 .
Ross Co.,
Inc,:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions
299
Super Moisturizing Lotion T h i s s i 1 k y - f e e l ing emu1 s i o n is s t a b i 1 ized and t h i c k e n e d u s i n g a s y n e r g i s t i c c o m b i n a t i o n o f Veegum Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e and R h o d i g e l Xanthan Gum. I t a l s o c o n t a i n s t h e sodium s a l t o f p y r r o l i d o n e c a r b o x y l i c a c i d as a n a t u r a l m o i s t u r i z i n g f a c t o r a l o n g w i t h t h e w e l l known h u m e c t a n t , g l y c e r i n e . T h i s l o t i o n s p r e a d s e a s i l y and i s q u i c k l y a b s o r b e d l e a v i n g t h e s k i n m o i s t and s u p p l e . % bv W t . 1.o 0.5 74.5
InQredi ent : Veegum Rhodi g e l Dei o n i zed Water
A
3.0 5.0
B
Sodium PCA ( 2 ) Glycerine
C
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene ( 3 ) M i n e r a l O i l (and) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l Cetyl Alcohol Isopropyl Myristate Sorbitan Palmitate P o l y s o r b a t e 40
D
4.0 3.0 2.0 2.0 1.2 3.8
(4)
C i t r i c A c i d t o pH 5 . 5 P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, F r a g r a n c e
q.s. q.s.
( 2 ) A j i d e w N-50 ( 3 ) Polysynlane ( 4 ) Amerchol L-101 Preparation: D r y b l e n d Veegum and R h o d i g e l and add t o t h e w a t e r , m i x i n g w i t h maximum a v a i l a b l e shear u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Add B i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . M i x C i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 50C u n t i l a u n i f o r m c l e a r m i x t u r e i s o b t a i n e d . Add C t o ( A + B ) w i t h h i g h speed m i x i n g . A v o i d i n c o r p o r a t i n g a i r . Cool w i t h cont i n u o u s s t i r r i n g t o 30C and add D. C o n s i s t e n c y : Medium V i s c o s i t y L o t i o n ( V i s c o s i t y :
1900-2400 c p s )
Suggested P a c k a g i n g : P l a s t i c squeeze b o t t l e o r pump. Comments: T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o s e r v e as a g u i d e f o r t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r improvement o f e x i x t i n g ones.
SOURCE: R . T , V a n d e r b i l t Co.,
Inc.:
F o r m u l a t i o n No. 437
300
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
TRF Facial Lotion
Phase A : C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) Ceteareth-20 S o r b i t a n Stearate ( A r l a c e l 60) S t e a r i c Acid, t r i p l e pressed G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Emerest 2400) Cetearyl Alcohol C e t y l Ac e tat e (and) A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n Al c o h o l C12-15 A l c o h o l s Benzoate ( F i n s o l v TN) PPG-15 S t e a r y l E t h e r ( A r l a m o l E) D i m e t h i cone Carnation M i neral O i 1 Phase B: Carbomer 941 ( 2 % D i s p . ) ( C a r b o p o l 941) Magnesi urn Aluminum S i 1 ic a t e (Veegum) Potassium Hydroxide ( p e l l e t s ) T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Glycerin Water Phase C : T i s s u e R e s p i r a t o r y F a c t o r s ( B i o d y n e s TRF) Germaben I 1 Fragrance
Percent 0.80 0.50 0.50 1 .oo 1.40 0.50 0.40 0.40 0.20 3.00 7.50 0.30 0.15 0.10 3.00 78.55 0.70 0.50 0.50
Procedure: M e l t Phase A t o 75C. Heat w a t e r t o 70C and d i s p e r s e t h e Veegum. Add t h e Carbopol s l u r r y and t h e g l y c e r i n and EDTA. Add t o Phase A and add t h e p o t a s s i u m h y d r o x i d e . Cool t o 50C and add Phase C . Facial Moisturizing Lotion (W/O) Inqredients : Carnation M i neral O i 1 A l d o MCT S y n t h e t i c Beeswax Lanolin P o l y a l do 10-6-0 D e i o n i z e d Water Sodi um B o r a t e Glydant Plus
%Wt. 40.00 2.00 10.00 1.00 2.50 43.90 0.60 q.s
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formulations
Lotions
301
Ultra Moisturizing Lotion
T h i s creamy, o i l - i n - w a t e r e m u l s i o n i s t h i c k e n e d and s t a b i l i z e d w i t h a s y n e r g i s t i c c o m b i n a t i o n o f Veegum U l t r a and Carbomer. The w e l l - k n o w n humectant g l y c e r i n p e r f o r m s t h e m o i s t u r i z i n g f u n c t i o n . Veegum U l t r a a l s o enhances t h e w h i t e n e s s and b r i g h t n e s s o f t h e e m u l s i o n and h e l p s a d j u s t t h e p H t o a p p r o x i m a t e t h a t o f t h e s k i n . The l o t i o n s p r e a d s e a s i l y and i s r a p i d l y absorbed, l e a v i n g t h e s k i n m o i s t and s u p p l e . Inaredient : Veegum U1 t r a (Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e ) Carbomer 980 ( 2 ) Dei o n i zed Water
A
B
Glycerin
C
M i n e r a l O i l (and) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l Cetyl Alcohol Isopropyl Palmitate Hydrogenated P o l y i s o b u t e n e ( 4 ) Isopropyl Myris t a t e Sorbitan Palmitate P o l y s o r b a t e 40
D
P r e s e r v a t i v e , Fragrance Sodium H y d r o x i d e , (10% S o l u t i o n ) t o pH 6 . 0
% by W t . 0.15 0.15 73.70
5.00 4.00 2.00 2.00 5.00 3.00 1.20 3.80
(3)
( 2 ) Carbopol 980 ( 3 ) Amerchol L-101 ( 4 ) Polysynlane
Procedure: D r y b l e n d Veegum U l t r a and Carbomer and add them s l o w l y t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a t 700 rpm. I n c r e a s e t h e m i x e r speed t o 1500-1700 rpm and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 30 m i n u t e s . Add B and m i x 5 m i n u t e s . M i x C i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 50C. Heat (A and 6) m i x t u r e t o 5 0 C . Add C t o (A and B) and m i x a t 50C and 1500-1700 rpm f o r 10 m i n u t e s . Slow t h e m i x e r t o 1000 rpm w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 30C. Add D and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Product C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s : V i s c o s i t y : 2200-2800 cps pH: 6 . 0 + - 0 . 2 Comments: T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o s e r v e as a g u i d e f o r t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.
SOURCE:
R.T.
V a n d e r b i l t Co.,
Inc.:
Formula
No. 450
302
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Un-Buffered Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion The r e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a t h i n l o t i o n t h a t w o u l d b e c o m p a t i b l e f o r u s e i n a g l a s s o r r i g i d p l a s t i c b o t t l e . The f o r m u l a t i o n c o n t a i n s L a c t i c A c i d , as t h e a l p h a h y d r o x y a c i d (AHA), a t a u s e l e v e l o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 4.5%. A.
D e i o n i z e d Water Methylparaben (Lexgard M ) 2,4-Dichlorobenzyl Alcohol
( M y a c i d e SP)
80.50 0.20 0.20
B. G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) Stearamidoethyl D i e t h y l a m i n e (Lexemul AR) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e x o l GT-865) S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l a m i n e (Lexamine S-13) M i n e r a l O i l NF ( L i g h t ) P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d P)
1 .50 1.50 4.00 3.00 2.00 2.00 0.10
C.
5.00
L a c t i c A c i d (88%)
Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A" h e a t i n g t o 75-8OC. Use a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r for agitation. 2 . Combine s e c t i o n "B" h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. A g i t a t e s l o w l y w i t h a propeller mixer. 3 . When s e c t i o n s "A" & "BII a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g n a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s s l o w l y add "B'l t o "A", t h e n b e g i n c o o l i n g . 4. Reduce m i x i n g speed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g . 5 . A t 55-60C add s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t i o n s "AB". 6 . A t 45C a d j u s t f o r w a t e r loss. 7 . M i x t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Physical Properties: V i s c o s i t y : 700 cPs @ 24C ( B r o o k f i e d RVT, TA @ 10 rpm) 24 h o u r sample pH: 2 . 3 @ 24C
SOURCE:
Inolex
Chemical Co.:
F o r m u l a t on
398-30-3
.
Lotions
303
W/O Lotion
A.
%
M i g l y o l 840 Gel B M i g l y o l 840 M i g l y o l 812 A r l a c e l 481 A r l a c e l 989 Isopropyl myri s t a t e Vase1 i ne
4.0 7.5 5.0
3.0 5.0
5.0 2.0
6 . Glycerol
5.0 0.7
Magnesi um s u l p h a t e Carbopol 934 Water C.
0.2 t o 100.0
Perfume Preservative
P r e p a r a t ion : The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and h e a t e d t o 75-8OC. Those o f B . a r e mixed w i t h a h i g h speed s t i r r e r , h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d , i n s m a l l amounts, i n A . w i t h t h e h i g h speed s t i r r e r . C . i s added a t a p p r o x . 3 0 C . Body Lotion
A.
M i g l y o l 840 I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s M a r l o p h o r T10 N a s a l t Cetyl alcohol
7.0 4.0 2.0 0.3
B. H o s t a c e r i n g e l 1%* Karion F Water C.
12.5 5.0 t o 100.0
Perfume Preservative
qs qs
Preparation: The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and h e a t e d t o 75-8OC. Those o f 6 . a r e b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and g r a d u a l l y s t i r r e d i n t o A . C . i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t approx. 30C. * P r e p a r a t i o n o f t h e H o s t a c e r i n g e l : H o s t a c e r i n PN73 1 .O% Water t o 100.0% The H o s t a c e r i n i s mixed w i t h w a t e r u n t i l homogeneous and t h e mixture s t i r r e d u n t i l the gel i s clear.
SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . :
Formulations
for C o s m e t i c s : Formulas
304
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W/O Lotion with Eldew YO by W e i g h t I n a r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: Part A: D i - ( C h o l e s t e r y l , behenyl, o c t y l d o d e c y l ) 2.00 N - L a u r o y l - L - g l u t a m i c a c i d e s t e r / E l d e w CL-301 C e t e a r y l Octanoate 10.00 C12-Cl5 A l k y l Benzoate 5.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.60 Tocopheryl A ce tate 0.05 Part B: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone 5.00 C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) Hexyl L a u r a t e Cetyl Dimethicone 3.00 Part C: Dei o n i zed Water 65.55 0.80 Sodium C h l o r i d e G l y c e r i n (99.5%) 5.00 P a r t i a l l y D e a c e t y l a t e d C h i t i n ( l . O % ) / M a r i n e Dew 2.00 Part D: Methylparaben 0.20 B u t y l e n e G1 y c o l 0.80 Procedure: P r e - m e l t p a r t A a t 50 degrees C e n t i g r a d e . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . P r e - m e l t p a r t D by h e a t i n g t o 50 degrees C . Add t o p a r t C . S l o w l y add P a r t C and D m i x t u r e t o P a r t s A and B w i t h h i g h shear m i x i ng. Appearance: W h i t e , smooth, s h i n y l o t i o n pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 20,000-20,000 ( R V T #6 @ lOrpm @ 25 degrees C) Mild Lotion with Amihope % Weight Ingredients: Phase A : Mineral O i l 5.00 A m i t e r LGOD 2.00 Propylene Glycol Stearate 0.50 PEG-5 Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l 1 .50 PEG-5 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e 2.50 Butylparaben 0.10 A m i hope-LL 3.00 Phase B: A c y l g l u t a m a t e HS-1 1 0.30 Carbomer 941 0.20 Sodi um H y d r o x i de 0.08 Butylene Glycol 5.00 Methylparaben 0.20 Water 79.62 Procedure: D i s s o l v e Carbomer 941 and Sodium H y d r o x i d e i n w a t e r f i r s t . Add a l l o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o t h e s o l u t i o n and d i s s o l v e a t 75 t o 80 degrees c e n t i g r a d e . D i s s o l v e Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s a t BO degrees c e n t i g r a d e . When b o t h phases a r e a t BO degrees c e n t i g r a d e add A t o B w i t h agitation. Cool down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w h i l e c o n t i n u i n g m i x i n g . T h i s l o t i o n has a smooth f e e l i n g and good s p r e a d a b i l i t y . SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Section VIII Shampoos
305
306
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Acid Balanced Conditioning Shampoo
Wei ht,96 35.0 10.0 6.0
TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e (40%) Mackam 35HP (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) Mackalane 426 ( I s o s t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l M o r p h o l i n e L a c t a t e ) M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o
qs
00.0
Procedure: 1 . Add components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 40 degrees C . 2. B l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 3 . A d j u s t pH t o 4.0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 4. Cool and f i 11. All Purpose Shampoo Weiaht,% 20.0 qs qs 100.0
Mackadet SBC-8 ( M i I d B l e n d ) Sodium C h l o r i d e M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o
Procedure: 1 . Add Mackadet SBC-8 t o w a t e r and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 2. Add M a c k s t a t DM and a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y t o 2000-3000 c p s w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . 3. Add dye, f r a g r a n c e , and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . Aloe Vera Gel Shampoo A l o e Vera Gel L i q u i d (1:l) Water Mackernium 007 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m 7 ) Mackadet SBC-8 (Mi I d B l e n d ) M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) F r a g r a n c e , Dye q s t o
Wei q h t .% 50.0
Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e Mackernium 007 i n w a t e r and A l o e Vera L i q u i d . 2. Add Mackadet SBC-8 and h e a t t o 45 degrees C . 3. B l e n d u n t i l homogeneous. 4. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . 5 . Add r e m a i n i n g components and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 6 . Cool and f i l l .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . :
P e r s o n a l Care F o r m u l a r y
14.5 3.0 32.0 qs
100.0
Shampoos
307
Aloe Vera Shampoo Insredients: A. D . I.Water A l o e V e r a g e l 200 Powder Sodium C h l o r i d e Hydrolyzed animal p r o t e i n
Percent 64.04 0.1 1.3 1 .o
8 . Sodi u m 1a u r y l s u l f a t e C i t r i c acid Fragrance D.M.D.M. Hydantoin G e r m a l l 115 ( p r e s e r v a t i v e )
26.0 0.40 0.15 0.20 0.10
6.0
C . R i chami de 1 iq u i d
Procedure: M i x Phase 'IA" t o g e t h e r . M i x Phase "Btl t o g e t h e r and add t o Phase " A " . B l e n d t o g e t h e r . Add Phase "C" and m i x t o g e t h e r . Aloe Vera Premium-Type Shampoo with Protein Innredients: Aloe Veragel 1 : l C y c l o r y l WAT C y c l o t e r i c BET-C3O P e p t e i n 2000 C y c l omi de DC212S NaCl C i t r i c Acid Perfume, P r e s e r v a t i v e , C o l o r
Percent 28.0
60.0 5.0
1 .o 4.0 1 .o q.s. q.s.
Procedure: Warm A l o e V e r a g e l and WAT t o 40C, and b l e n d i n i n g r e d i e n t s as l i s t e d . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h NaCl and a d j u s t pH w i t h C i t r i c Acid.
SOURCE: D r . M a d i s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
308
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Anti-Dandruff Lotion Shampoo Weight,% P a r t A: Veegum M e t h o c e l FYM Water qs t o P a r t B: Sodium O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e (40%) Mackamide LLM ( L a u r a m i d e DEA) Mackamide S (Soyamide DEA) Mackpro NLP ( Q u a t e r n i u m - 7 9 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ) (Natural L i p i d Protein) P a r t C: Z i n c Omadine (48%)
1.o 0.8 100.0
35.0 4.0 1 .o
2 .o 4.0
Procedure: 1 . T h o r o u g h l y d i s p e r s e Veegum i n w a t e r a t 70 d e g r e e s C. 2 . Then s l o w l y add M e t h o c e l FYM and b l e n d u n t i l homogeneous. 3. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and a d j u s t pH t o 6 - 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 4 . Add Z i n c Omadine and b l e n d u n t i l homogeneous. Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Cream Type Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (30%) Mackam 35HP ( C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) Sodium C h l o r i d e T r i p l e Pressed S t e a r i c A c i d Mackamide LLM ( L a u r a m i d e DEA) Propylene G l y c o l Z i n c P y r i t h i o n e (48%) Mackami de PK ( P a l m k e r n e l ami de DEA) C a u s t i c Soda (50%) M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o
Weiaht.% 61 . 8 10.0
7.0 5.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 2.0 1.6 qs
100.0
Procedure: 1. Heat s t e a r i c a c i d , Mackamide LLM, Mackamide PKM and p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l t o 70 d e g r e e s C . 2 . Heat SLS, Mackam 35HP, Sodium C h l o r i d e , C a u s t i c Soda and w a t e r t o 70 d e g r e e s C . 3. Add o i l t o w a t e r and c o o l t o 55 d e g r e e s C . 4. S l o w l y add Z i n c P y r i t h i o n e . 5. Cool t o 45 d e g r e e s C . and add r e m a i n i n g components. 6. F i l l a t 40 d e g r e e s C .
SOURCE:
M c I n t y r e Group L t d . :
P e r s o n a l Care F o r m u l a r y
Shampoos
309
Anti-Dandruff Shampoo A n t i - d a n d r u f f shampoo: w i t h c o n d i t i o n i n g a c t i o n c o u p l e d w i t h n a t u r a l suspension r e s u l t i n g i n c o s m e t i c a l l y e l e g a n t , h i g h l y e f f i c a c o u s a n t i - d a n d r u f f shampoo.
%w/w
Inqredients:
Function
1 . Sodium L a u r e t h - 3 S u l f a t e ( S t a n d -
a p o l ES-3) 2 . P a t i o n i c ISL/85* 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
57.69 3.00
3.00 R i t a EGDS ( G l y c o l D i s t o a r a t e ) Propylene Gl y col 2.00 Z i n c Omadine 2.00 R i t a v e n a - 5 ( H y d r o l y z e d Oat F l o u r ) 4.50 Fragrance 0.25 P a t l a c LA (44%) ( L a c t i c Ac d ) 0.40 D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 27.16
*
Lather, Cleaning Conditioning, Deposi t i on O p a c i t y , S t a b i 1 it y S t a b i 1 it y A c t ive Suspensi on,C1 ean F e e l Odor pH A d j u s t m e n t
----
Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y a t e @ 85% i n P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Pre-mix i t e m s 1 t o 4 a t 165F. Add i t e m 5 w i t h h gh sheer m i x i n g . H y d r a t e i t e m 6 i n 210F w a t e r . Cool t o 165F and m i x . Cool t o 120F. Add perfume and a d j u s t pH and v i s c o s t Y . R e f . No. 113-141C Cleaning Shampoo Type Clear viscous shampoo designed for oily hair types. Inqredients: 1 . Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t e p a n o l
%w/w F u n c t i o n
3 0 . 0 0 C1 e a n i ng, L a t h e r AM 1 2 . Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( S t a n d 25.00 C l e a n i n g , L a t h e r a p o l EA-2) 3 . 01 eamidopropyl B e t a i ne ( M i r a t a i ne 6.00 Mildness, V i s c o s i t y BET-0-30) 0 . 5 0 No S t a t i c Fly-Away 4. R i t a l o e 40X ( A l o e Vera G e l ) 5 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l 2.50 M i l d n e s s , C o n d i t i o n i n g Lactylate) 0.30 Preservation 6 . Kathon CG 0 . 0 3 Odor 7. Fragrance Squeeky Clean #165-047 q.s.pH Adjustment 8. C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) 35.67 9. D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Wter
-
----
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : To t h e w a t e r add i n g r e d i e n t s 1 t o 5 . Heat t o 165F. M i x t o u n i f o r m i t y . Cool t o 120F and add p r e s e r v a t i v e and p e r f u m e . A d j u s t pH i f n e c e s s a r y t o 5 . 8 . R e f . N o . 118-69
SOURCE: R . I . T . A .
C a r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
310
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Anti-Dandruff Shampoos
0 40/39: Z e t e s o l 856 T Amphotensid 0 4 0 i o - s u l p h u r CLR Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e , preservative
q . s . t o make 100.0%
0 41/24: Z e t e s o l 856T P e r l g l anzmi t t e l GM 41 75 Condi pon Anti-dandruff-Usnat A 0 Perfume Water, sodium c h l o r i d e , p r e s e r v a t i v e
20.0% 4.0% 4.0% 2.0% 0.3% q . s . t o make 100.0%
0 41/26: Z e t e s o l 2056 Amphotensid 0 4 P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4175 Anti-dandruff-Usnat A0 Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i ve
28.0% 8.0% 4.0% 2.0% 0.5% 9,s. t o make 100.0%
25.0% 4.0% 1.O%
Shampoos for Greasy Hair
0 40/56: Z e t e s o l 856 T M u l s i f a n RT 275 P u r t o n SFD Water, p e r f u m e , p r e s e r v a t i v e
30.0% 2.0% 1 .O% q . s . t o make 100.0%
0 41/27: Z e t e s o l 2056 Amphotensid 0 4 P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4175 M u l s i f a n RT 275 Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e
28.0% 8.0% 4.0% 1 .O% 0.5% q . s . t o make 100.0%
SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shampoos
311
Antidandruff Shampoo Materials: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . Bentone MA R h e o l o g i c a l A d d i t i v e 3 . M e t h o c e l E 4M Premium 4 . Z i n c Omadine 48% 5 . Super Amide GR 6 . Standapol T 7 . Triethanolamine 8 . C o l o r and F r a g r a n c e
% bv Weight
48.55 1 .oo 0.75 4.20 4.00 38.00 3.00 0.50
Manufacturing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Heat D e i o n i z e d Water t o 70C, and w i t h r a p i d s t i r r i n g , add Bentone MA a d d i t i v e s l o w l y and m i x i t f o r 20 m i n u t e s or u n t i l homogeneous. M a i n t a i n t h e t e m p e r a t u r e t h r o u g h s t e p 4 . 2 . Add M e t h o c e l and m i x i t f o r 15 m i n u t e s w i t h c o n t i n u o u s stirring. 3 . Add Z i n c Omadine and m i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s . 4. Reduce t h e s t i r r e r speed and a t l o w speed add Super Amide GR. M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s . 5 . T u r n o f f t h e h e a t and w h i l e c o o l i n g , add S t a n d a p o l T . M i x f o r 15 m i n u t e s a t l o w speed. 6 . Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o l o r s o l u t i o n , s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l m i x e d . A d j u s t t h e w a t e r l o s s and c o o l i t t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Add f r a g r a n c e and m i x i t .
SOURCE: Rheox,
I n c a : F o r m u l a t i o n TS-261 Protein Shampoo
D e i o n i z e d Water Busan 1504 Panthenol D i s o d i um EDTA C i t r i c Acid A l o e Vera 2 0 0 X Sodi um L a u r e t h - 2 S u l f a t e Cocamide DEA Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne Hydrolyzed Collagen Protein-55%
42.85 0.10 0.25 0.05 0.20 0.05 42.00 4.00 5.50 5.00
Procedure: Add Busan 1504 p r e s e r v a t i v e i n t o w a t e r , and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . F o l l o w w i t h r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r shown, m i x i n g w e l l between each a d d i t i o n .
SOURCE: Buckman L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
312
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Balsam & Protein Shampoo Ingredients: CP 1052 (shampoo base) Water Hydrolyzed Collagen (Hormel-Peptein Balsam
% B
A
B
2000x1)
31.50 67.20 0.25 0.25 0.80
NaCl
Procedure: Add w a t e r t o shampoo base w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add P r o t e i n and balsam w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add s a l t under f a s t e r s t i r r i n g t o b u i l d v i s c o s i t y . Formula CP 1060 Balsam & Protein Shampoo Ingredients: A G-9600 (shampoo base) Water Hydrolyzed Collagen (Hormel-Peptein Balsam
B
w&9J 2000x1)
*Preservative * q . s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Add w a t e r t o shampoo base w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add P r o t e i n and balsam w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Formula CP 1067
SOURCE:
IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
31 . 5 0 68.17 0.30 0.03
Shampoos
313
Cleaning Shampoo V i s c o u s , h i g h f o a m i n g shampoo w h i c h m a x i m i z e s c l e a n i n g b y r e m o v i n g s t y l i n g and r e s i d u e s f r o m h a i r .
w
Function Ingredients: 1 . Sodium (C14-Cl6) O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e 20.00 Cleaning, L a t h e r ( B i o t e r g e AS 4 0 ) 2 . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e @ 25% 20.00 Cleaning, Lather Lather Density 3 . R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 3.00 4 . Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Mackam 35 HP) 3.00 M i ldness 1 .oo V i s c o s i t y 5 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 6 . P a t i o n i c ISL (Na I s o s t e a r y l L a c t y l a t e ) 2 . 5 0 M i l d n e s s , Body 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i o n 7 . Kathon CG 8 . F r a g r a n c e - - N a t u r e H a r v e s t #165-050 0 . 3 0 Odor 9 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) q . s . pH A d j u s t m e n t q.s. Viscosity 10.Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . ) Adjustment 11 . D i s t i 1 l e d Water 50.17 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : To t h e w a t e r add i n g r e d i e n t s 1 t o 6 i n o r d e r a t 165F. Cool t o 120F and add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Cool t o 95F and a d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 and v i s c o s i t y as d e s i r e d . R e f . No. 118-18 Cleaning Shampoo N e u t r a l i z i n g shampoo t o t h o r o u g h l y c l e a n h a i r . Can be u s e d a f t e r relaxer o r h a i r straightener treatments. In a r e d ie n t s : 1 . A l p h a O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e ( B i o t e r g e AS-40)
2.
3. 4. 5. 6.
%m
Function 3 7 . 5 0 C l e a n i n g , No Residue P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3 . 0 0 R i n s e Out, Combing R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 3 . 0 0 B u b b l e Toughness F r a g r a n c e - N a t u r e H a r v e s t 165-050 0 . 3 0 Odor C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) q.s.pH Adjustment D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 56-20
- --------------
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : To t h e w a t e r a t 165F add 1 and 2. Cool t o 120F. P r e - m i x i t e m s 3 and 4 and add a t 120F. T h o r o u g h l y m i x and a d j u s t pH t o 5.5 w i t h c i t r i c acid. R e f . No. 118-51
SOURCE: R.I.T.A,
Corp.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
314
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning Shampoo Ingredients: Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , 26% s o l u t i o n Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e , 28% s o l u t i o n Cocoamphocarboxypropionate, 38% s o l . Laurami de DEA Tween 2 0 Water B Forestall C *Citric acid A
%w/w 15.50 15.00 12.50 3.00 2.00 50.60 i .40
* q . s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: M i x ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g and h e a t u n t i l homogeneous. Add (B). A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 t o 5 . 5 w i t h ( C ) . Conditioning Shampoo Ingredi ents: A CP 1052 (shampoo base) Water P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 1 ( G a f q u a t 755) B H y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( M e t h o c e l E4M) *q.s.
56w/w 31.50 66.84 1.32 0.34
these i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Add w a t e r t o shampoo base w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add p o l y q u a t e r n i u m w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . Heat ( A ) t o 8OC and s l o w l y add h y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e w i t h f a s t e r s t i r r i n g . S t i r w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c o o l e d t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Formula PC 1057 Conditioning Shampoo Ingredients: A CP 1052 (Shampoo b a s e ) Water P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 1 (Gafquat 755) 0 NaCl
%w/w 31.50 67.40 1.00 0.10
Procedure: Add w a t e r t o shampoo base w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add G l y c e r i n and A r l a m o l E w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . Heat ( A ) t o 80C and add g l y c o l s t e a r a t e w i t h f a s t s t i r r i n g . S t i r w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c o o l e d t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and s t i r N a C l . Formula CP 1062
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shampoos
315
Conditioning Shampoo
%w/w
Inaredients: P o l y o x WSR Water G-9600 Vitamin E Protein NaCl Panthenol B *Color *P re ser va t ve *Fragrance
0.02
A
*q. s . t h es
71 . 3 8
25.00 1.oo
1 .oo 0.60
1 .oo
in g r e d i e n t s
Procedure: Add t h e P o l y o x WSR t o t h e w a t e r u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d w i t h h e a t i f n e c e s s a r y . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s . Conditioning Shampoo Inaredients: G-9600 (Shampoo base) Water Polyquaternium-11 (Gafquat 7 5 5 ) B NaCl *Preservative *q.s. these i n g r e d i e n t s .
A
%w/w 31 . 5 0 68.01 0.30 0.19
Procedure: Add w a t e r t o shampoo base w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add p o l y q u a t e r n i u m w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add s a l t and s t i r w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . Formula CP 1064 Professional Salon Type Shampoo Inaredients : A CP 1052 (shampoo base) Water Roche-DL-Panthenol Cosmetic Grade Calgon Merquat 550 B NaCl
%w/w 31 3 0 65.40 0.50 2.50 0.10
Procedure: Add w a t e r t o shampoo base w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add P a n t h e n o l and p o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 7 w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add s a l t under f a s t e r s t i r r i n g t o b u i l d v i s c o s i t y . Formula PC 1058
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
316
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning Shampoo Innredients: Part A: D e i o n i zed Water SLES ( 3 m o l ) D i s o d i um EDTA
49.05 40.00 0.30
P a r t B: I n c r o m i de L R (Laurami de DEA) I n c r o m i d e CAC (Cocamide DEA Cocoyl S a r c o s i n e ) I n c r o m i ne Oxi de BA (Babassuami d o p r o p y l ami ne O x i d e ) I n c r o d e t TD-7C ( T r i d e c e t h - 7 C a r b o x y l i c A c i d ) Part C: H y d r o t r i t i c u m 2 0 0 0 ( H y d r o l y z e d Whole Wheat P r o t e i n ) C r o d a c e l QS ( S t e a r y l d i m o n i um H y d r o x y p r o p y l O x y e t h y l C e l l u l ose) P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben*
5.50 1 .oo 2.00 0.15 0.50 0.50 1 .oo
Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 65-7OC. Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h m i x i n g , and c o o l b a t c h t o 45C. Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h a 10% c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n . C o n t i nue m i x i ng and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i 11 t e m p e r a t u r e . pH: 5 . 5 + - 0 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 6,500 cpst-10% *Germaben I 1 N . A . T . C . Approved Formula SH-71 Cold Mix Shampoo w/Crosultaine C-50 Innredi ents: P a r t A: Dei o n i zed Water I n c r o m i d e CA (Cocamide DEA) Part 8: Teal s I n c r o m i d e BAD (Babassuamide DEA) I n c r o s u l t a i n e C-50 (Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e ) C r o q u a t L ( L a u r y l d i moni urn H y d r o x y p r o p y l Col 1 agen) C i t r i c A c i d (10% S o l n ) Propylene G l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) Methyl Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben*
SS 59.85 2.00 25.00 1 .oo 8.00 0.25 2.90 1.oo
Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t 6 i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH w i t h a 10% c i t r i c a c i d . pH: 6 . 5 t - 0 . 5 *Germaben I 1 N . A . T . C . Approved Formula SH-78
SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shampoos
317
Conditioning Shampoo Innredients: Phase A : Water, Dei o n i zed Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l ES-1) Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l WAQ-Speci a1 ) Lauramide DEA (Monamid 716) Q u a t e r n i u m - 2 2 ( C e r a p h y l 60) Quaternium-26 ( C e r a p h y l 65) C i t r i c A c i d ( F i n e G r a n u l a r , 30% Aq. S o l u t i o n ) Sodium C h l o r i d e
w 50.32 20 IO0 20.00
3 -00 2.00 2.00 1.40 0.08
Phase B: Sodium H y d r o x y m e t h y l g l y c i n a t e ( S u t t o c i d e A )
0.40
Phase C : F r a g r a n c e ( F l o r a l Spice-NP49)
0.50
Processed I n g r e d i e n t : D & C Green No. 5 ( 0 . 1 % Aq. S o l . ) FD & C Green No. 5 ( 0 . 1 % Aq. S o l . )
0.19 0.11
Procedure: 1 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n Phase t o aerate batch, heat t o 2 . Cool Phase A t o 40C. Add 3. Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n Phase 4 . Sweep t o 25C. SOURCE:
ISP
Van Dyk I n c . :
A w i t h mixing, being c a r e f u l not 75C. Phase B w i t h slow m i x i n g . C w i t h mixing u n t i l uniform.
F o r m u l a t i o n #09843-85-1
Everyday Hair Shampoo Insredi ents: 1 A ) Genapol LRO l i q u i d 2 3 4
% w/w 35,OO
6 ) Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d Phenoni p
5 C) 6 7 8 9 10 D)
39,90 0,50
E u x y l K-200
0,30
Genapol AMG Sericin Sodium C h l o r i d e F r a g r a n c e : A d r i a n o 0/235970 Genagen CAB Sodiumhydroxyd s o l u t i o n 30%
8,OO 3,OO 3,OO 0,30 10,oo
Procedure: D i s s o l v e i t e m 3 and 4 i n w a t e r ( 2 ) . D i s s o l v e phase 6 ) i n i t e m 1 . Then add and d i s s o l v e i t e m s 5-9 one a f t e r a n o t h e r . A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h i t e m s 10 t o pH 6-7. SOURCE:
Pentapharm L t d . :
A p p l i c a t i o n No. F Oll.A/05.94
31 8
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Conditioning Shampoo p e a r l i z e d , m o d e r a t e l y v i s c o u s shampoo t o t h o r o u g h l y c l e a n s e and c o n d i t i o n h a i r . H e l p s m a i n t a i n i d e a l m o i s t u r e b a l a n c e and l e a v e s h a i r w i t h added s o f t n e s s , m a n a g e a b i l i t y and body. % by Weight 50.28 P a r t A : D e i o n i z e d Water P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ( C e l q u a t SC-240) 00.25 Panthenol (dl-P ant he n ol ) 00.20 Methylparaben 00.15 Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ( C y c l o t e r i c BET C-30) 06.00 G l y c o l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul EGMS) 01 . o o Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l ES-2) 20.00 TEA-Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e (Ami s o f t CT-12) 16.00 03.50 P a r t B : Cocamide DEA ( C y c l o m i d e DC 212/S) 01 . o o P a r t C : Quaternium-75 ( F i n q u a t CT) Methylchloroisothiazolinone ( a n d ) 00.08 M e t h y l is o t h i a z o l inone ( K a t h o n CG) F r a g r a n c e (Givaudan #PSC 10,435/6) 00.30 C i t r i c Acid 00.04 Sodium C h l o r i d e 01.20 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e C e l q u a t SC-240 i n t h e w a t e r . Heat t o 70C. Add t h e r e s t o f Part A . Mix u n t i l completely uniform. S t a r t cooling. A t 60C, add C y c l o m i d e DC 212/S. A t 40C, add P a r t C i n t h e g i v e n order. Color: Off-white (pearlized) pH: 5.50 V i s c o s i t y ( @ 25C): 5 . 0 0 0 c p s ( # 4 s p i n d l e @ 10 rpm A gentle,
Gentle Shampoo A c l e a r , m o d e r a t e l y v i s c o u s shampoo t h a t o r o v i des r i c h , he pH-ba anced l u b r i c o u s l a t h e r and s o f t n e s s t o t h e h a i r . f o r m u l a i s e x t r e m e l y g e n t l e and p r o v i d e s ef e c t i v e c e a n s i ng without harsh s t r i p p i n g . % by Weiqht 45.55% P a r t A : D e i o n i z e d Water 00.20 Methylparaben Lauroamphoglycinate (and) T r i d e c e t h S u l f a t e 30.00 (Mi r a n o l MHT) TEA-Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e ( A m i s o f t CT-12) 20.00 Sodi um Cocoyl G1 u t a m a t e ( A m i s o f t CS-11 ) 01 .oo 01.50 PEG-1 50 D i s t e a r a t e Sodium PCA ( A j i d e w N-50) 01 .oo P a r t B: M e t h y l c h l o r o i s o t h i a z a o l i n o n e (and) M e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e (Kathon CG) 00.05 F r a g r a n c e ( N o v i l l e #84504) 00.20 C i t r i c Acid 00.50 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat P a r t A t o 65C u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous. Cool t o 40C. Add P a r t B . Color: Light straw - clear pH: 5 . 6 5 ' 10 r p m ) V i s c o s i t y : 3,750 c p s ( # 4 s p i n d l e 3
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA,
Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shampoos
319
Conditioning Shampoo % bv Wei a h t Water 45.35 20.00 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( 2 Mole 26%) ( S i p o n ES2) 20.00 Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e and D i s o d i urn L a u r y l S u l f o s u c c i n a t e (Monaterge 1164) 10.00 T r i s o d i u m Lauroampho PG A c e t a t e Phosphate C h l o r i d e ( P h o s p h o t e r i c QL-38) D i m e t h i c o n e (Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d 200 CS) 2.50 G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e (Kessco E t h y l e n e G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e , 1 .oo Armak) Cocamide MEA (Monamid CMA) 1 .oo Sodi um C h l o r i d e 0.15
Procedure: Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Heat t o 70C. Cool t o 40C. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 t o 6.0 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d . Formul a t ion P r o p e r t i8s : P h y s i c a l Appearance: W h i t e p e a r l e d l o t i o n V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 7,100 cps Formul a F-578
Mild Conditioning Shampoo % bv Weiclht 34.0 8.5 1.5 27.0
Water M o n a t e r i c CLV Phosphol ip i d EFA Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e
29.0
Procedure: B l e n d i n o r d e r l i s t e d , a d j u s t pH down 5 . 5 t o 6.0 w i t h 50% c i t r i c acid. T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i ea: Appearance: C l e a r L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: A p p r o x i m a t e l y 17,000 c p s . Formula F-644
SOURCE:
Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,
Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
320
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cream Shampoo Mackanate LO-Special ( D i s o d i u m L a u r y l S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) Mackol 16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) B r i j 52 M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, F r a g r a n c e qs t o
Wei n h t ,% 88.0 2.0 2.0 qs 100.0
S o l i d s , %: 40.0 pH ( a s i s ) : 5 . 5 Appearance: P e a r l y Cream Procedure: 1 . Add Mackol 16, B r i j 52 and w a t e r t o Mackanate LO-Special and h e a t t o 70 d e g r e e s C . 2 , B1 end u n t i 1 homogeneous. 3. A d j u s t p H t o 5 . 5 t o 6.0 w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e . 4. Cool t o 50 d e g r e e s C . and add M a c k s t a t DM and f r a g r a n c e . 5 . A d j u s t s o l i d t o 4O.Ot-1.0 a t t h i s p o i n t . 6. Cool and f i l l . Highly Pearlescent Shampoo
Sodium L a u r y l E t h e r S u l f a t e 60% Mackamide C (Cocamide DEA ( 1 : 1) M a c k e s t e r SP ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e M o d i f i e d ) Stearic Acid Magnesium S u l f a t e ( 7 H 2 0 ) D i e t h a n o l ami ne M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) D e i o n i z e d Water, F r a g r a n c e , Dye qs t o pH: 7 . 5 - 8 . 0 V i s c o s i t y ( c p s 25 degrees C ) :
Weight ,% 20.0 2.0 2.0 2.0
6.0 0.67 qs 100.0
1000-2500
Procedure: 1 . Heat w a t e r t o 75 degrees C . and add Magnesium S u l f a t e . 2 . D i s s o l v e c o m p l e t e l y t h e n add o t h e r s u r f a c t a n t s and DEA t h e n add waxes. 3. Keep t e m p e r a t u r e a t 70 d e g r e e s C . f o r 20 m i n u t e s s t a r t cool in g s l o w 1 y 4 . A t 35 d e g r e e s C . add r e m a i n d e r o f i n g r e d i e n t s and c o o l w h i l e m i x i ng t o room t e m p e r a t u r e 5 . A d j u s t pH w i t h DEA o r S u l f u r i c A c i d d i l u t e d s o l u t i o n s .
.
I
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : P e r s o n a l Care F o r m u l a r y
Shampoos
321
Emollient Shampoo Inqredients: A Arlamol E A r l a c e l 186
%&&
B
Tween 2 0
4.00
C
W a t e r , d e i o n i zed Tensagex EOC-670
D
Sodi um Cocoyl S a r c o s i n a t e Lauryl Polyglucose
0.50 0.50
71 . O O 6.00 6.00 8.00
E PEG 6000 D i s t e a r a t e 4.00 Procedure: M i x ( A ) and add (B). M i x u n t i l c . l e a r and add (C) s l o w l y . M i x ( D ) and w i t h s l i g h t h e a t and add t o ( A , B , C ) . Heat t o 65C and add ( E ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g .
Moisturizing Shampoo Inqredients: CP 1052 (shampoo base) Water G 1 y c e r i ne A r l a m o l E , I C 1 (PPG-15 s t e a r y l e t h e r ) Jojoba O i l
A
%&& 31.50 66.50 0.50 0.25 0.25
G l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e (Stepan-Kessco E t h y l e n e G l y c o l D i stearate) 1.oo Procedure: Add w a t e r t o shampoo base w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add G l y c e r i n an A r l a m o l E w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . Heat ( A ) t o 80C and add g l y c o s t e a r a t e w i t h f a s t s t i r r i n g . S t i r w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n u n t i 1 c o o l e d t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Formu a CP 1059
B
Shampoo Concentrate Insredients: %w(W Ammoni um 1a u r y l s u l f a t e ( S t e p a n o AM 1 75.59 Water 0.30 Cocamidopropyl b e t a i n e ( T e g o b e t a ne L - 7 ) 17.78 NaCl 0.47 C i t r i c acid 0.53 Cocamide DEA (Monamid 15OADD) 5.33 Procedure: Heat i n g r e d i e n t s t o a b o u t 45C. S t i r each i n g r e d i e n t i n one a t a t i m e i n o r d e r u s i n g moderate a g i t a t i o n . F o r m u l a CP 1052
SOURCE:
IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
322
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Ethnic Hair Care Amphoteric Shampoo (Cold Process) Clear Inqredients: T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Water Sodi um L a u r y l Sul f a t e Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F) D i m e t h i c o n e P r o p y l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l B 9950) Q u a t e r n i um-80 ( A b i 1 Quat 3272) D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L ) C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l u t i o n ) Fragrance Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ( a n d ) G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( A n t i l HS 6 0 ) Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y )
w 0.1 48.1 20.0 25.0 0.5 0.3 0.5
0.5 t o pH 6 Q.S. 5.0 Q.S.
Procedure: 1 . Mix i n g r e d i e n t s i n order. 2 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e . Ethnic Hair Care Amphoteric Shampoo (Cold Process) Pearled Ingredients: T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 0.1 Water 45.1 Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e 20.0 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F) 25.0 0.5 D i m e t h i c o n e P r o p y l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l B 9950) Q u a t e r n i urn-80 ( A b i 1 Quat 3272) 0.3 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) 0.5 PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L ) 0.5 C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l u t i o n ) t o pH 6 Fragrance Q.S. G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r e t h - 4 (Tego P e a r l N 1 0 0 ) 3.0 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ( a n d ) G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e 5.0 ( A n t i l HS 6 0 ) Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y ) Q.S. Procedure: 1. Mix i n g r e d i e n t s i n order. 2 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e . SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shampoos
323
Everyday Family Shampoo I n e x p e n s i v e shampoo u t i l i z i n g P a t i o n i c I S L f o r m i l d n e s s and c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo d e s i g n e d t o be used b y a l l f a m i l y members w i t h a l l h a i r t y p e s . Inqredients: Function 1 . Sodium C14-Cl6 O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e ( B i o t e r g e AS-40) 37.50 Cleaning 2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3.00 M i l d n e s s 3 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 3.50 V i scosi t y 4 . K a t h o n CG 0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t ive 0 . 3 0 Odor 5 . Fragrance-Baby Powder #165-848 6. Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . ) q.s. Viscosity 7 . Sodium H y d r o x i d e (20% S o l n . ) q . s pH A d j u s t m e n t 8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 55.67 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat t h e w a t e r and i t e m 1 t o 165F. Heat t h e P a t o n i c I S L and R i t a p e g 150 OS i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l t o 165F. Add t o t h e w a t e r w i t h good m i x i n g . Cool t o 120F and add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Add Sodium C h l o r i d e u n t i l s a l t c u r v e r e s p o n s e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 . R e f . No. 178-37C Everyday Family Shampoo A m i l d e v e r y d a y f o r m u l a f o r a l l f a m i l y members.
Insredients: 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h - 2 S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l ES-2) 2 . R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA 3. R i t o x 35 ( L a u r e t h - 2 3 ) 4 . G r i l l o c a m E-20 ( M e t h y l G u c e t h - 2 0 ) 5. Ritacet-20 (Ceteareth-20 6. Promoi s W-32 (Hydro1 yzed C o l l agen) 7. C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) Kathon CG 8. P r e s e r v a t i v e 9. Fragrance Nature Harvest 1 0 . D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water
-
-
%w/w F u n c t i o n 25.00 Cleaning 8.00 Lather 3 . 0 0 Combi ng 3.00 Mildness 2 . 0 0 Body 0 . 2 0 Body q . s . pH a d j u s t m e n t 0.03 Preservative 0 . 3 0 Odor 58.47
___---_
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat w a t e r t o 165F. Combine i t e m s 3,4 and 5 and h e a t u n t i l c l e a r . Add t o t h e w a t e r w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n . Add i t e m 1 and m i x . Cool t o 120F. Add i t e m 6 . P r e - m i x i t e m 2 and f r a g r a n c e . Add t o m i x t u r e . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 . R e f . N o . 118-85 SOURCE: R . I . T . A .
Corp,:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
324
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Gel Shampoo Water Sodium C h l o r i d e Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e (25%) M o n a t e r i c CAB Phosphol ip i d PTC Monamid 1089
% by Weight 55.00 1 .oo 35.00 5.00 2-00 2.00
pH a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 0 - 6 . 0 Procedure: Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d making s u r e each one i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d b e f o r e a d d i n g t h e n e x t one. Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r i ng, o r p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d . Mild Conditioning Shampoo % by Weight
Water M o n a t e r i c CLV Phosphol ip i d EFA Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e
34.0 8.5 1.5 27.0 29.0
Procedure: B l e n d i n o r d e r l i s t e d , a d j u s t pH down 5 . 5 t o 6 . 0 w i t h 50% c i t r i c acid. Typical Properties: Appearance: C1 e a r L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y 13 25C: A p p r o x i m a t e l y 17,000 c p s . Formula F-644 Conditioning Shampoo % bv Weinht
Water Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e (26%) M o n a t e r i c COAB Phosphol ip i d EFA Sodium C h l o r i d e
31 . O 57.7 9.4 1.4 0.5
Procedure: B l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r . A d j u s t pH down t o 5 . 0 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . Add f r a g r a n c e s , c o l o r , and p r ? s e r v a t i v e s as r e q u i r e d and package. Formula F-621
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shampoos
325
Hair Shampoo
Dilutable Viscous Shampoo (For Customer Dilution 1:4) Rhodaterge DCA Water Perfume, P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye
80 p a r t s 18 2
Viscous Consumer Shampoo 25.0 p a r t s 74.7 0.3
Rhodaterge DCA Water Perfume C o l o r , P r e s e r v a t i ve
Q.S.
Transparent Shampoo % b y Weight
Water M i r a c a r e ANK F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e
64.5 33.0 Q.S.
2.5
B l e n d i n g Procedure: Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and b l e n d b a l a n c e of i n g r e d i e n t s i n order l i s t e d . Lotion Shampoo % by Weiaht
Water M i r a c a r e ANK M i rasheen 202 F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e
67.5 25.0
5.0 Q.S.
2.5
B l e n d i n g Procedure: Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and b l e n d b a l a n c e o f i n g r e d i e n t s i n order l i s t e d .
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
326
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Shampoo Clear
Wt% Ampholyt JB 130 M a r l in a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t SL 3/40 D i o n i l OC/K Lamepon S Panthenol Vitamin F Perfume Colour P r e s e r v a t i ve NaCl Water
17.8 13.9 11.4 2.0 2.0 0.2 0.1 qs qs qs
qs t o 100.0
Preparation: The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . Hair Shampoo W S
M a r l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 105 Ampholyt J B 130 D i o n i l OC/K Lamepon S Panthenol Hai r Complex Aquosom Camomi 1 e Speci a1 C o l l a g e n CLR P r e s e r v a t iv e NaCl Water
29.0 14.0 10.0
3.0 5.0
0.3 0.5
2.0 0.5
qs as t o 1oo:o
Preparation: The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The p H i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
SOURCE:
H u l s America I n c . :
F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmetics:
Formulas
Shampoos
327
Hair Shampoos, Clear B 40/5: Zetesol NL P u r t o n SFD Perfume Water, sodium c h l o r i d e , p r e s e r v a t i v e B 40/30: Z e t e s o l 2056 P u r t o n SFD Water, perfume, preservative
40.0% 1.O%
0.5% a . s . t o make 100.0%
30.0% 1.0% sodium c h l o r i d e , q . s . t o make 100.0%
B40/31 : S u l f e t a l KT 400 Amphotensid GB 2009 P u r t o n CFD Water, p e r f u m e , p r e s e r v a t i v e
B40/50 : E x t r a k t 52 Amphotensid B 4 P u r t o n SFD E x t r a c t s o f p l a n t s , aqueous (10%) Water, p e r f u m e , p r e s e r v a t i v e
37.0% 10.0%
2.0% q.s.
t o make 100.0%
27.0% 12.0% 0.5%
2.0% q . s . t o make 100.0%
Hair Shampoos, Pearlescent 0 41/1; Z e t e s o l 856 T P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4175 Perfume Water, sodium c h l o r i d e , p r e s e r v a t i v e
B 41/3: S u l f e t a l KT 400 P e r l g l anzmi t t e l GM 41 75 Amphotensid B 4 Water, p e r f u m e , sodium c h l o r i d e , preservative B 41/25: Z e t e s o l 2056 Amphotensid 0 4 P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4175 Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co.:
20.0% 4.0%
0.3% q . s . t o make 100.0%
25.0% 8.0% 9.0% q.s.
t o make 100.0%
28.0% 8.0% 4.0%
0.5% q . s . t o make 100.0% Suggested F o r m u l a s
328
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Shampoo with Conditioner M a r l in a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 105 Ampholyt J B 1 3 0 M a r l a m i d D F 1218 Lamepon S M a r l a z i n KC 30/50 Pant h e n o l Vitamin F Perfume Colour Preservat ve NaCl Water
35.0 10.0 5.0
2.0 2.0 1.6 0.2 0.1 qs CIS
qs qs t o 100.0
Preparati-n: The components a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . Hair Shampoo with Conditioner for Everyday Use
wt% M a r l in a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 105 M a r l i n a t S L 3/40 M a r l a z i n KC 30/50 Panthenol Perfume Colour P r e s e r v a t ive NaC1 Water
46.0 7.0
3.8 1.6 0.2 qs qs qs CIS
t o 100.0
P r e p a r a t ion : The components a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : F o r m u l a s
Shampoos
329
Herbal Shampoo Pearlescent M a r l in a t 242/28 Ampholyt J B 1 3 0 M a r l a m i d PG 20 Hai r Complex Aquosum S t i n g i n g N e t t l e Special Rosemary S p e c i a l Vitamin F Horse-chestnut Sp ecial Perfume Col our Preservative NaCl Water
wts/, 30.0 8.0 3.0
I .o 0.5 0.3 0.2 I .3 qs qs qs qs
t o 1100.0
Preparation: The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . Highly Concentrated Hair Shampoo A. M a r l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t SL 3/40 Ampholyt J B 130 S o f t i g e n 767
Water 6.
wts/, 54.0 25.0 16.0 3.0
t o 100.0
Perfume Preservative Colour NaCl
P r e D a r a t i on : The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e added t o g e t h e r i n sequence, and s t i r r e d w h i l e warm u n t i l homogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s o f 8 . a r e added t o A . a t a p p r o x . 3 0 C . The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .
SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Formulas
330
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
High Foaming 2 in 1 Shampoo Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) Mackalene 426 ( I s o s t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l M o r p h o l i n e L a c t a t e ) Mackanate DC-30 ( D i s o d i u m D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l S u l f o succi nate) E t h y l e n e G1 y c o l D i s t e a r a t e Mackamide PKM ( P a l m k e r n a l a m i d e MEA) Mackernium 007 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m 7 ) M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e q s t o
Weiqht,% 65.0 6.0 4.0 1. o 2.0 0.4 Q.S.
100.0
Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e f i r s t f i v e components and h e a t t o 70 d e g r e e s C . w i t h c o n t i nuous m i x i ng . 2 . D i l u t e t h e Mackernium 0 0 7 i n t h e r e m a i n i n g w a t e r and s l o w l y add t o t h e b l e n d 3 . B l e n d u n t i l p r o d u c t i s homogeneous and c o o l t o 5 0 d e g r e e s C . 4 . Add M a c k s t a t DM, f r a g r a n c e and d y e . 5 . A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d t o 5 . 0 - 6 . 0 and c o o l . I
Silicone Free 2:1 Shampoo Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (30%) Mackanate LA (Diammonium L a u r y l S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) Mackalene 426 ( I s o s t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l Morpho1 i n e L a c t a t e ) Mackami de CMA (Cocami de MEA) Mackernium 0 0 7 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m 7 ) M a c k e s t e r EGDS ( G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ) Sodium C h l o r i d e Paragon (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben) W a t e r , F r a g r a n c e , Dye q . s t o
Weiaht ,% 40.0 20.0 6.0 2.0 1.2 1.o
0.8 q.s. 100.0
Procedure: 1 . Add t h e f i r s t seven components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 70C. 2 . B1 end u n t i 1 compl e t e l y homogeneous. 3 . Cool t o 50C. and add Paragon, f r a g r a n c e and d y e . 4 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 - 6 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 5 . Cool and f i l l .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : P e r s o n a l Care F o r m u l a r y
Shampoos
331
Light Conditioning Shampoo L i g h t c o n d i t i o n i ng shampoo based on h a i r s u b s t a n t i v i t y o f P a t i o n i c SSL (Sodium S t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) . Promotes s t y l e r e t e n t i on.
w
F u n c t ion C1 e a n i ng Cleaning Style, Conditioning 3.50 Viscosity Lather 4.50 Density 0.30 Odor Preservative 0.03 q.s. pH A d j u s t m e n t q.s. Viscosity Adjustment 4 5 . 8 1 ------
Insredients: 1 . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l WAQ-LC) 21.43 2 . Sodium L a u r e t h - 2 S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l ES-2) 2 1 . 4 3 3 . P a t i o n i c SSL (Na S t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3.00 4. R i t a EGDS ( G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ) 5 . R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 6 . F r a g r a n c e - P e r t Type #189-724 7 . Kathon CG 8. C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) 9 . Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . ) 1 0 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water
----
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat i t e m s 3 and 4 u n t i l m e l t e d . Add t o 165F w a t e r i t e m s 1 and 2. B l e n d i n p r e - m i x w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 140F Heat i t e m 5 and m i x w i t h perfume. Add t h e s e and p r e s e r v a t i v e a t 120F. R e f . No. 118-98 Light Conditioning Shampoo A l i g h t c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo w i t h r e d u c e d s k i n and eye i r r i t a t i o n due t o t h e e f f e c t s o f G r i l l o t e n ( S u c r o s e C o c o a t e ) .
Function Inaredients: 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h - 3 S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l ES-3) 40.00 L a t h e r 8.00 M i 1dness 2 . Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Mackam 35HP) 2.80 N o n - I r r i t a t i o n 3. G r i l l o t e n LSE-65K ( S u c r o s e Cocoate) 3 . 0 0 Condi t i o n i n g 4. R i t a s y n t I P ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e and o t h e r s ) 1 . 0 0 Combing, S t y l e 5. Polyquta-400 (Polyquaternium-10) 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 6 . Kathon CG q. s V i s c o s i t y 7 . Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . ) q.s.pH Adjustment 8 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) 0 . 3 0 Odor 9. Fragrance 44.87 l O . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water
.
-------------
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : T o t h e w a t e r a t 165F s l o w l y add i t e m 5 . When s o l u b i l i z e d add i t e m 3, w h i c h has been m e l t e d . Then add 1, 2 and 4 w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n a t 165F. Cool t o 120F and add p e r f u m e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 and v i s c o s i t y t o d e s i r e d l e v e l . R e f . No. 118-2
SOURCE: R.1,T.A. C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
332
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Light Conditioning Shampoo L i g h t c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo d e s i g n e d t o l e a v e t h e h a i r w i t h a s o f t , c o n d i t i o n e d f e e l f r o m e t h o x y l a t e d 1a n o l in ( L a n e t o 5 0 ) . & ? & ’ Function Inqredients: 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h - 2 S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l ES-2) 50.00 C l e a n i n g 4.50 C o n d i t i o n i n g , 2 . R i t a s y n t I P ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e and O t h e r s ) S o f t Feel 3 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3.00 Mildness, Combing 4 . L a n e t o 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 1 50 S o f t F e e l , Shine 5 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 0.50 O p a c i t y 0.50 Conditioner, 6 . R i t a p a n DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) Body 0 . 3 0 Odor Squeeky C l e a n 165-047 7. Fragrance 0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t ive 8 . Kathon CG q.s.pH adjustment 9 . Sodium H y d r o x i d e (20% S o l n . ) q . s . V i scosi t y 10.Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . ) Control 11 . D i s t i l l e d Water 39.67 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : T o t h e w a t e r add 1-6, h e a r t o 165F. M i x and c o o l t o 120F. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e . Note pH s h o u l d be n e a r 6 . 0 . A d j u s t w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e t o 7 . 2 - 7 . 6 t o maximize d e p o s i t i o n o f t h e L a n e t o 50 i f d e s i r e d . R e f . No. 118-46 I
-
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Light Conditioning Shampoo A l i g h t c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo o p t i m i z e d f o r permed h a i r . C o n t a i n s m o i s t u r i z e r s and r e p a i r a g e n t s t o g i v e h a i r new l i f e . Inqredients: Function 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h - 2 S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l ES-2) 53.60 C l e a n i n g 2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l 2.25 Moi s t u r i z a t i o n Lactylate) 3 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 0.75 V i s c o s i t y 4. R i t a EGMS ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e ) 2.00 O p a c i t y 5 . R i t a l a n DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 0 . 2 5 Body, F e e l 0.75 Feel 6 . L a n e t o 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 2 . 5 0 Moi s t u r i z a t i o n 7 . Propylene Glycol 8. Fragrance N a t u r e H a r v e s t 165-050 0 . 3 0 Odor 9 . Kathon CG 0.03 Preservative 37.57 10. D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat i t e m s 2,3 and 4 u n t i l u n i f o r m . S e p a r a t e l y h e a t w a t e r u n t i l 165F d i s p e r s e i t e m 5 and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add i t e m 1 f o l l o w e d b y p r e - m i x . Add i t e m 7 t o b a t c h . Pre-mix i t e m 6 and perfume and add t o b a t c h w h i c h has been c o o l e d t o 125F. M i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s . pH s h o u l d b e n e a r 5 . 5 . R e f . No. 118-94
-
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SOURCE:
R.I.T.A.
Corp.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shampoos
333
Low pH, Protein Gel Shampoo Wei g h t ,% 35.0 Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (30%) Mackam 35HP ( C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) 12.0 Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ) (Natural L i p i d Protein) 2.0 Mackamide LLM ( L a u r a m i d e DEA) 2.0 M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) qs Lactic Acid qs Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o 100.0 Procedure: 1 . Add f i r s t f o u r components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 60 d e g r e e s C . 2 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 w i t h l a c t i c a c i d . 3 . Cool and add r e m a i n i n g components a t 40 d e g r e e s C . Mild Conditioning Shampoo Weiqht,% 10.0 Mackanate EL ( D i s o d i u m L a u r e t h Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) Mackam 35 ( C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ( V i a G l y c e r i d e ) 25.0 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (60%) 10.0 Mackanate DC-30 ( D i s o d i um D i m e t h i cone C o p o l y o l 1 .o Sul fosucci nate) Mackamide C (Cocamide DEA (1:l) 2.0 P o l y s o r b a t e 20 1 .o M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) qs Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o 100.0 pH: 5 . 5 - 6 . 7 V i s c o s i t y ( c p s 25 d e g r e e s C . ) : 600-1200 Procedure: 1 . Add s u r f a c t a n t s t o w a t e r . 2 . S t a r t m i x i n g a t room t e m p e r a t u r e u n t i l a l l components a r e c l e a r l y dissolved. 3 . B l e n d f r a g r a n c e w i t h P o l y s o r b a t e and add t o b a t c h . 4 . A d j u s t pH i f n e c e s s a r y w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 5. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e . Economy Shampoo
.
Wei q h t % 10.0 Mackadet SBC-8 (Mi I d B l e n d ) Sodium C h l o r i d e qs M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) qs Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e q s t o 100.0 Procedure: 1 . Add Mackadet SBC-8 t o w a t e r and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 2 . Add M a c k s t a t DM and a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y t o 3000-4000 c p s w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . 3 . Add dye and f r a g r a n c e and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : P e r s o n a l Care F o r m u l a r y
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
334
Mild Shampoo U l t r a m i l d shampoo f o r g e n t l e c l e a n i n o f h a i r . E x c e p t i o n a l l y easy t o r i n s e o u t and l e a v e s m i n i m a l r e s due.
m
Ingredients: 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l ES- ) 2 . C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e (Mackam 35 HP) 3 . R i t a b a t e 20 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 20) 4. R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e )
30.00 20.00 5.00 2.00
5. Preservative 6 . Fragrance-Baby Powder #165-848 7 . Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n ) 8. D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water
q.s. 0.30 q.s. 42.70
Function C1 eani ng M i ldness M i 1dness Light Conditioning P r e s e r v a t ive Odor Viscosity
ComDoundina P r o c e d u r e : To w a t e r add i t e m s 1 and 4. Heat t o 60C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add i t e m s 2 and 3 and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g . Cool t o 30C. Add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium Chloride solution. R e f . N o . 118-71
Mild Shampoo
%Jqjy Ingredients: 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h - 2 S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l ES-2) 46.50 2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e 1 2 . 2 5 0.75 3 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 4. 5. 6. 7.
C o n d i t i o n i n g Agent* F r a g r a n c e - N a t u r e H a r v e s t 165-050 Kathon CG Sodium H y d r o x i d e (20% S o l n . ) 8 . Sodium C h o r i d e (25% S o l n . )
9 , D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water
*
F u n c t ion Cleaning Damage Repai r Viscosity, Manageability q . s . Conditioning 0 . 3 0 Odor Preservative 0.03 q . s . pH A d j u s t m e n t q.s. Viscosity Control 50.17
_----
O p t i o n a l c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t , such as j o j o b a o i l , p a n t h e n o l , p r o t e i n , e t c . c o u l d be added.
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : To t h e w a t e r add i t e m 1 a t 165F. P r e - m i x i t e m s 2 and 3 and add a t 165F. Cool t o 120F and add p e r f u m e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 and v i s c o s i t y as d e s i r e d . R e f . No. 118-102
SOURCE: I 3 , I . T . A .
Corp.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shampoos
335
Moisture Balance Shampoo with Cropeptide W T h i s f o r m u l a g i v e s h a i r more body c o n t r o l i n a l l h u m i d i t i e s , an e f f e c t c r e a t e d by C r o p e p t i d e W . E s p e c i a l l y recommended f o r d r y , damaged h a i r , C r o p e p t i d e W can r e d u c e i t s b r i t t l e n e s s a t low RH and i t s l i m p n e s s a t h i g h RH. The shampoo i s an e a s y - t o make and economical c o l d mix f o r m u l a w i t h v e r y good c l e a n s i n g properties. % Ingredients: Part A: I n c r o m i d e LR (Lauramide DEA) 5.00 Incronam 30 (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) 5.00 Sodi um P a r e t h - 2 5 S u l f a t e 15.00 C r o p e p t i d e W ( H y d r o l y z e d Wheat P r o t e i n ( a n d ) Wheat 1 .oo 01 ig o s a c c h a r i des) Dei o n i zed Water 73.70 P a r t B: M e t h y l paraben 0.20 P r o p y l paraben 0.10 Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h good m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH w i t h a 10% c i t r i c s o l u t i o n . pH: 5.0+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y : 7,500+-10% (RVT S p i n d l e # 4 , 20 rpm, 25C) N . A . T . C . Approved Formula SH-82 Shampoo with Tritisol A r i c h f o a m i n g shampoo w i t h wheat d e r i v e d T r i t i s o l added f o r c o n d i t i o n i n s . E x c e l 1e n t wet combi ng c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s a r e p r o d u c e d by t h i s p e a r l e s c e n t p r o d u c t . % Ingredients: P a r t A: SLES ( 3 m o l e ) 16.50 C r o s u l t a i n e C-50 (Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e ) 7.00 Dei o n i zed Water 61.50 I n c r o m e c t a n t AMEA-100 (Acetamide MEA) 3.75 Part 8 : I n c r o m i d e CAC (Cocamide DEA Cocoyl S a r c o s i n e ) 3.00 I n c r o m i d e ALD (Almondamide DEA) 1 .oo I n c r o m a t e OLL ( O l i v a m i d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l a m i n e L a c t a t e ) 1 .oo Part C: T r i t i s o l ( S o l u b l e Wheat P r o t e i n ) 2.25 C r o d a p e a r l L i q u i d (Sodim L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( a n d ) 3.00 H y d r o x y e t h y l Stearamide M I P A ) 1 .oo Germaben I 1 Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 60-65C. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 80-856. S l o w l y add B t o A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 w i t h a 10% c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n . Cool t o d e s i r e d f i l l temperature. V i s c o s i t y : 2,500+-10% (@25C) pH: 6 O O + - 0 . 5 N.A.T.C. Approved Formula SH-83-1 SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
336
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Protein Shampoos
0 40/65: S u l f e t a l KT 400 Amphotensid 0 4 P u r t o n SFD Hydrolastan Water, p e r f u m e , sodium c h l o r i d e , preservative
30.0% 10.0% 1.5% 1 .O% 9.s.
B 40/148: Part A: S u l f e t a l CJOT 60 P u r t o n SFD Perfume Croquat L P a r t B: Polymer JR 400 Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e
t o make 100.0%
25.0% 1.0% 0.5% 1 .O%
0.3% 9 , s . t o make 1 0 0 . 0 %
Vitamin Shampoos B 40/29: Z e t e s o l 856 T P u r t o n SFD S o l u v i t CLR W a t e r , perfume,
30.0% 1.5%
3.0% preservative
a . s . t o make 100.0%
0 40/30: S u l f e t a l KT 400 Amphotensid B 4 P u r t o n CFD V i tami n F, w a t e r - s o l u b l e Water, p e r f u m e , sodium c h l o r i d e , preservative
40.0% 5.0% 1.5%
1.0% q.s.
t o make 100.0%
Shampoo for Dry Hair
B 40/131: Z e t e s o l 856 T Amphotensid B 4 Oxypon 288 Avocado o i l Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e
22.0% 8.0%
4.0% 0.5% 1 .O% approx. 2.0% q . s . t o make 100.0%
SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co.: Sugeested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shampoos
337
Salon Conditioning Shampoo Optimal c o n d i t i o n i n g l e v e l i s achieved. Inqredients: 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l ES-2) 2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l Lactylate) 3 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 4. R i t a p a n DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 5 . L a n e t o 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 6 . P o l y q u t a 400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 7 . Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . ) 8 . Kathon CG 9. Fragrance N a t u r e H a r v e s t 165-050 10. D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water
-
Function 5 4 . 3 5 C1 e a n i ng
3.00 1 .OO 0.25 0.75 0.50 0.25 0.03 0.30 39.57
M i l d , Combing Style,Viscosity Body Combing Combing, S t y 1 e V i scosi t y Preservative Odor
------
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m s 6 and 4 i n o r d e r i n w a t e r a t 165F. P r e - d i s s o l v e i t e m 3 i n i t e m 2 . Add t o 165F main b a t c h and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add i t e m s 5 and 1 i n o r d e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 120F. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and p e r f u m e . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h NaC1. R e f . No. 118-28 Salon Conditioning Shampoo A m i l d s a l o n c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo w i t h e x t r e m e l y r i c h l a t h e r and a l o e and p a n t h e n o l t o p e n e t r a t e t h e h a i r s h a f t t o p r o d u c e heal t h y hai r .
Insredients: 1 . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l WAQ LC) 2 . C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e (Mackam 35 HP) 3. R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 4 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l Lactylate) 5 . R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e Vera G e l ) 6. R i t a p a n DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 7. Kathon CG 8 . Fragrance Nature Harvest 9. Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . ) 1 0 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) 11 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water
-
Function 25.00 C1 e a n i ng
10.00 L a t h e r , M i l d 5.00 L a t h e r , Oensi t y 1-75 Mildness 0 . 1 5 Condi t i o n i ng 0.50 H e a l t h 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 0 . 3 0 Odor q.s.Viscosity Control q.s.pH Adjustment 57.27
-----
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : To t h e w a t e r add i t e m s 5 and 6, h e a t t o 120F. Combine i t e m s 1 , 2 and 4, add h e a t t o 120F. Add t o w a t e r m i x t u r e w i t h u n i f o r m m i x i n g . P r e - m i x R i t a m i d e C and p e r f u m e and add t o b a t c h . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH and v i s c o s i t y as needed. R e f . No. 118-63 SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
338
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Salon Style Shampoo Salon c o n d i t i o n i n g i s achieved through balanced blend o f s u r f a c t a n t s , p o l y m e r s and p r o t e i n s w h i c h g i v e h a i r g r e a t combing and s h i n e . Inqredients: 1. Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t e p a n o l AM 1 45.00 2 . Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Mackam 35HP) 5 . 5 0 3. Cocami d o p r o p y l Ami ne O x i d e (Mazox CAPA) 5.50 4 . R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 1.00 0.10 5 . P o l y q u t a 400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 6 . Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( M e t h o c e l 40-100) 0.20 7 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e @ 99% 0.10 8 . T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 0.20 9. Methylparaben 0.20 1 0 . G e r m a l l 115 0.20 11 . P r o m o i s WK ( H y d r o l y z e d K e r a t i n ) 0.40 1 2 . F r a g r a n c e - N a t u r e H a r v e s t #165-050 0.30 1 3 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) 4,s. 41.30 1 4 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water
Function C1 e a n i ng Mildness Lather L a t h e r Densi Y Conditioning Body, V i s c o s pH Clarity Preservative Preservative S h i n e , Body Odor pH C o n t r o l
-----
Cornpounding P r o c e d u r e : To t h e w a t e r add i t e m s 5 and 6 and n e u t r a l i z e w i t h TEA. Add i t e m s 1 , 2 , 8 , 9 , 1 0 and 11 i n o r d e r . P r e - m i x i t e m s 3 , 4 and f r a g r a n c e and add t o m i x . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 and v i s c o s i t y R e f . No. 118-111
.
2 in 1 High Conditioning Shampoo H i g h c o n d i t i o n i n g 2 i n 1 t y p e shampoo w i t h e x c e l l e n t wet combi n g / d r y combing. Inqredients: 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h - 3 - S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l ES-3) 2 . R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 3. P o l y q u t a 400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 4. F r a g r a n c e 5 . Kathon CG 6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water
Function 30.00 3.75 1.00 0.30 0.03 64.92
C1 e a n i ng Lather Conditioning Odor Preservative
----
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : TO t h e w a t e r a t 165F add i t e m s 3 and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add i t e m s 1 and 2 i n o r d e r and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . Cool t o 120F and add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH w i t h C i t r i c A c i d and v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e t o d e s i r e d r a n g e s . R e f . No. 115-2058 SOURCE: R . I . T . A .
Corp.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shampoos
339
Shampoo for Permed Hair Wei g h t .% Mackanate OP ( D i s o d i u m Oleamido M I P A S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 20.0 Mackanate CP ( D i s o d i um Cocami do M I P A S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 12.0 15.0 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (30%) 4.0 Mackamine WGO (Wheat Germamidopropylamine O x i d e ) Mackalene 716 (Wheat Germamidopropyl D i m e t h y l a m i ne Lactate) 1.o M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) qs C i t r i c A c i d t o pH=6.0 Sodium C h l o r i d e qs t o 2000 cps 100.0 Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o Procedure: 1. Add s u r f a c t a n t s t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 40 d e g r e e s C . 2 . B l e n d u n t i l c l e a r and a d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 3 . Add r e m a i n i n g components and a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium chloride. Pearlescent Shampoo Concentrate W e i g h t ,% 50.0 TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e 30.0 Mackami de LLM (Laurami de DEA) M a c k e s t e r SP ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e M o d i f i e d ) 5.0 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 5.0 Sodium C h l o r i d e 1.0 P h o s p h o r i c A c i d t o pH = 7 . 5 M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) qs Water, F r a g r a n c e , Dye qs t o 100.0 Procedure: 1 . Add f i r s t f i v e components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 70 d e g r e e s C . 2 . B1 end u n t i1 homogeneous. 3 . Cool t o 40 d e g r e e s C . and add M a c k s t a t DM, dye and f r a g r a n c e . Remarks: T h i s p r o d u c t c a n be d i l u t e d one p i n t t o a g a l l o n w i t h w a t e r . The v i s c o s i t y can b e c o n t r o l l e d b y r e g u l a t i n g t h e propylene g l y c o l . Neutralizer Shampoo Weipht,% 30.0 Mackanate OM ( D i s o d i u m Oleamido MEA S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (30%) 20.0 Mackami ne CAO (Cocami d o p r o p y l ami ne O x i d e ) 6.0 Mackamine WGO (Wheat Germamidopropylamine O x i d e ) 2.0 M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) qs Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o 100.0 S o l i d s , %: 19.5 pH: 5 . 3 V i s c o s i t y ( c p s , 25 deg C . ) : 1500 Procedure: Add s u r f a c t a n t s t o w a t e r and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 - 5 . 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Add dye and f r a g r a n c e .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : P e r s o n a l Care F o r m u l a r y
340
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sport Shampoo A.
M a r l i n a t OFN 30 M a r l i n a t CM 105 Amphol y t J B 130 O i o n i l OC/K A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d Water
B . Avocado S p e c i a l Perfume Colour P r e s e r v a t ive
wei
35.0 11 . o 10.0 2.5 qs t o 100.0
1.5 qs qs
qs
Preparation: The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e added t o g e t h e r i n sequence, warmed and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s o f 9. a r e added t o A . a t a p p r o x . 30C. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 6 . Herbal Shampoo Against Greasy Hair
wt% 242128 CM 105 J B 130 M 1218
28.0 18.0 13.0 3.0 t o 100.0
B . Avocado S p e c i a l
1.o 0.5 qs qs qs qs
A.
Marlinat Marlinat Amphol y t Marlamid Water
Camomi 1e Speci a1 Perfume Colour Preservative NaCl
Preparation: The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e added t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d w h i l e warm u n t i l homogeneous. The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f B . a r e added t o A, a t a p p r o x . 30C. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .
SOURCE: Huls America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Formulas
Shampoos
341
Two in One Shampoo Ingredients: PC 9043, S i l i c o n e e m u l s i o n 10.00 Shampoo c o n c e n t r a t e 90.00 Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o a p p r o x . 65C. M i x w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h anchor type agitation. Formula PC 9049
w
Two in One Shampoo Ingredients: PC 9044, S i l i c o n e e m u l s i o n 10.00 Shampoo c o n c e n t r a t e 90.00 Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o a p p r o x . 65C. M i x w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h anchor type agitation. Formula PC 9050 Two in One Shampoo o/ow/w Ingredients: PC 9045, s i l i c o n e e m u l s i o n 10.00 Shampoo c o n c e n t r a t e 90.00 Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o a p p r o x . 65C. M i x w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h anchor type agitation. Formula PC 9051 Two in One Shampoo In a r e d ien t s :
o
m
PC 9046, s i l i c o n e e m u l s i o n 10.00 Shampoo c o n c e n t r a t e 90.00 Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o a p p r o x . 65C. M i x w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h anchor type agitation. Formula PC 9052 Two in One Shampoo Inaredients : %w/w PC 9047, s i l i c o n e e m u l s i o n 10.00 Shampoo c o n c e n t r a t e 90.00 Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o a p p r o x . 65C. M i x w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h anchor type agitation. Formula PC 9053 Two in One Shampoo Inaredients: PC 9048, s i l i c o n e e m u l s i o n 10.00 Shampoo c o n c e n t r a t e 90.00 Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o a p p r o x . 65C. M i x w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h anchor type agitation. Formula PC 9054
w
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
342
Cosmetic and Toiletiy Formulations
Two in One Shampoo T r u e 2 i n 1 f o r m u l a w i t h e x c e p t i o n a l wet and d r y combing. &V&/ Function Inqredients : 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h - 2 - S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l ES-2 30.00 C l e a n i n g 2 . Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Mi r a t a i n e BET C-30) 3.00 Lather 3 . PEG-120 M e t h y l G l u c o s e D i o l e a t e 3.00 Mildness, V i s c o s i t y 4 . Dow C o r n i n g 1401 F l u i d 2 . 6 0 Combing 5 . R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 4.00 Lather Density 6. Fragrance 0.20 Odor 7. Preservative K a t h o n CG 0 03 P r e s e r v a t i o n q . s . pH A d j u s t m e n t 8 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) 9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 57-17
-
I
---- ---
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : To t h e w a t e r a t 60C add i t e m s 1,2 and 3. Premix i t e m s 4 and 5 and add t o m i x a t 60C. S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add f r a g r a n c e , p r e s e r v a t i v e and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 . R e f . No. 116-153 Two in One Shampoo Unique combination o f e x c e l l e n t c o m b a b i l i t y , i t i o n i n g and m i l d n e s s . Inaredients: 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h - 2 - S u l f a t e
o v e r a l l cond-
Function (Standapol
ES-2) 45.00 C l e a n i n g , L a t h e r 1.50 M i l d n e s s 2 . G r i l l o t e n LSE-65K ( S u c r o s e C o c o a t e ) 3. Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Mi r a t a i ne 10.00 L a t h e r , M i l d n e s s BET C-30) 1.95 Combing 4. D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l (Abi 1 888183) 0.65 C o n d i t i o n i n g 5 . Q u a t e r n i u m 80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) 0 . 3 0 Odor Squeeky C l e a n 6. F r a g r a n c e 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 7 . Kathon CG 8. C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) 0 . 0 5 pH A d j u s t m e n t 9 . Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . ) q . s . Viscosity Control 40.52 10. D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water
-
----
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : To t h e w a t e r a t 120F add i t e m s 4,5 and 3 i n o r d e r . Pre-mix t h e i t e m s 1 and 2 w h i l e h e a t i n g g e n t l y and add p e r f u m e and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Now m i x b o t h phases t o g e t h e r . A d j u s t pH and v i scosi t y R e f . No. 119-4
.
SOURCE: R . I . T . A .
Corp.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shampoos
343
2-In-1 Shampoo
%w/w
Ingredients: A D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l Dow C o r n i n g 92-5000 Dow C o r n i n g 345 f l u i d
C a r b o p o l 1382 Water B CP 1052 (shampoo base)
0.25 0.25 0.10 66.13 31 . 5 0
C Stepan-Kessco E t h y l e n e g l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e
1.oo
D NaCl
0.77
Procedure: B l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s i n (A) t o g e t h e r w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n a t 35C. Add shampoo base t o ( A ) w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . H e a t m i x t u r e t o 80C and add g l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e w i t h f a s t s t i r r i n g . A l l o w t o c o o l w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n , s t i r r i n g i n s a l t a t 50C o r below. F o r m u l a CP 1061 Two-in-One Shampoo Ingredients: A Water Dow C o r n i n g (12-5200 Dow C o r n i n g 345 f l u i d BF G o o d r i c h C a r b o p o l 1382 B
Stepan-Kessco E t h y l e n e g l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e
C
G-9600
D
NaCl *Preservative
1053 (Shampoo b a s e )
%w/w 67.36 0.10 0.20 0.08 0.50 31 . 5 0 0.26
* q . s these i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: B l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s i n (A) t o g e t h e r w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n a t 35C. Add shampoo base t o ( A ) w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Heat m i x t u r e t o 80C and add g l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e w i t h f a s t s t i r r i n g . A l l o w t o c o o l w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n , s t i r r i n g i n s a l t a t 50C o r b e l ow. F o r m u l a CP 1063
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
344
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Three in One Shampoo R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a c l e a r r i c h shampoo w h i c h c l e a n s ; c o n d i t i o n s and i m p r o v e s c o m b a b i l i t y w i t h L e x q u a t AMG-BEO; and s t y 1 e s w i t h PVP/VA c o p o l y m e r
.
A.
Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l WAQ) TEA-Lauryl S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l T ) Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne ( L e x a i ne C) Cocami de DEA (Standami d KD) P o t a s s i u m C o c o y l - H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n (Maypon 4C)
B . D e i o n i z e d Water P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d M) P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d P) Benzophenone-4 ( U v i n u l MS-40) T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA (Hamp-ene Na4) C. D.
15.00 10.00 10.00 3.00 3.00 42.10 3.00 0.20 0.10 0.10 0.10
Behenami d o p r o p y l PG D i moni um Chl o r i de ( L e x q u a t AMG-BEO)
7.00
PVP/VA c o p o l y m e r ( L u v i s k o l VA 73-W)
6.00
0.20 QS
E . Fragrance Color
F . C i t r i c A c i d NF
QS
Procedure: 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n phase " A " . H e a t t o 75C w i t h c o n t i n uous s l o w o s c i l l a t i o n . Do n o t e n t r a p a i r . 2 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n phase "B'l. Heat t o 75-8OC. M i x r a p i d l y t o d i s s o l v e parabens. 3 . When phases "A&B1' a r e b o t h homogenoeus and a r e 75C, add Phase "A" t o "B". A d j u s t m i x i n g speed t o a v o i d f o a m i n g and a i r entrapment. 4 . Combine phase "C" and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. 5 . Add phase "C" t o 'IAB". M a i n t a i n 75C. 6 . When phase "ABC" i s homogenoeus add 'ID1' t o "ABC". M i x u n t i l homogeneous. 7 . When phase "ABCD" i s homogeneous b e g i n c o o l i n g t o a m b i e n t temperature. 8 . A t 30C add phase '@E1't o "ABCDI'. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g . 9 . When b a t c h r e a c h e s a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e , a d j u s t pH t o 7 w i t h phase "F" 10.Adjust f o r water l o s s . I
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical C o . :
F o r m u l a t i o n SP-116
Shampoos
345
Three in One Shampoo R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a r i c h c l e a r shampoo w h i c h c l e a n s ; p r o v i d e s c o n d i t i o n i n g and i m p r o v e d c o m b a b i l i t y w i t h L e x q u a t AMG-BE0 and q u a t e r n i z e d c h i t o s a n ; and s t y l e s w i t h PVP/VA copolymer.
w A . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l WAQ) TEA-Lauryl S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l T) Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ( L e x a i ne C) Cocami de DEA (Standami d KD) P o t a s s i u m C o c o y l - H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n (Maypon 4C)
15.00 10.00 10.00 3.00 3.00
B . Dei o n i zed Water P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d M) P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d P) Benzophenone-4 ( U v i n u l MS-40) T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA (Hamp-ene Na4)
42.10 3.00 0.20
C.
Behenamidopropyl PG Dimonium C h l o r i d e ( L e x q u a t AMG-BEO) P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 2 9 (Kytamer KC)
D . PVP/VA c o - p o l y m e r
( L u v i s k o l VA 73-W)
0.10 0.10 0.10 7.00 0.20
6.00 0.20
E . Fragrance Color
QS QS
F. C i t r i c A c i d NF
Procedure: 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n phase " A " . Heat t o 75C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s s l o w o s c i l l a t i o n . Do n o t e n t r a p a i r . 2. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n phase " B " . Heat t o 75-8OC. M i x r a p i d l y t o d i s s o l v e parabens. 3 . When phases "A&B" a r e b o t h homogeneous and a r e 75C, add Phase "At1 t o 'lB". A d j u s t m i x i n g speed t o a v o i d f o a m i n g and a i r entrapment. 4. Combine phase "C" and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. 5 . Add phase "C" t o "AB". M a i n t a i n 75C. 6 . When phase tlABC" i s homogeneous add phase "D" t o "ABC". M i x u n t i l homogeneous. 7. When phase "ABCDtf i s homogeneous b e g i n c o o l i n g t o ambient temperature. 8 . A t 30C add phase " E l 1 t o l'ABCD". C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g . 9 . When b a t c h r e a c h e s ambient t e m p e r a t u r e , a d j u s t pH t o 7 w i t h phase "F" 1 0 . A d j u s t f o r w a t e r loss.
.
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co.:
F o r m u l a t i o n SP-115
346
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Wheat ?L& Sesame Shampoo H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA i s t h e key i n g r e d i e n t i n t h i s shampoo, w h i c h a c q u i r e s i t s u n i q u e q u a l i t y f r o m a b l e n d o f wheat d e r i v e d m a t e r i a l s . T h i s shampoo has e x c e l l e n t foam w i t h a r i c h , creamy l a t h e r and l e a v e s t h e h a i r f e e l i n g r e f r e s h i n g l y c l e a n . Hydrot r i t i c u m WAA, a p o w e r f u l humectant, h e l p s t o r e t a i n m o i s t u r e t h a t i s v i t a l t o mai n t a i n i ng h e a l t h y h a i r . I n c r o m e c t a n t AMEA-100 and I n c r o m a t e S E L i m p r o v e wet combing and d e t a n g l i n g . % Inaredients: Part A: I n c r o m i ne Oxide WG (Wheat Germarni d o p r o p y l ami ne O x i d e ) 3.00 I n c r o n a m WG-30 (Wheat Germamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) 3.00 I n c r o m e c t a n t AMEA-100 ( A c e t a m i d e MEA) 5.00 S L E S ( 3 mol EO) 40.00 D i s o d i um EDTA 0.10 Dei o n i zed Water 41 -4.5 P a r t B: I n c r o m i de WGD (Wheat Germami de DEA) 2.00 I n c r o m a t e SEL (Sesami d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l ami ne L a c t a t e ) 1 .oo BHT 0.10 Part C: H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA (Wheat Amino A c i d s ) 3.00 Part D: Methylparaben 0.25 0.10 Propylparaben Propylene G l y c o l 1-00 C i t r i c A c i d (10% s o l n ) t o pH 5 . 4 Combine P a r t A and h e a t t o 60C. Combine P a r t B and h e a t t o 60C, m i x i n g u n t i l homogeneous. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 45C. Add P a r t C , f o l l o w e d by P a r t D , mixing u n t i l uniform. Adjust pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n . N . A . T . C . Approved Formula SH-84 Detangling Shampoo % Inaredients: Part A: 20.0 SLES ( 3 m o l . ) 7.0 C r o s u l t a i n e C-50 (Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e ) 58.0 Dei o n i zed Water 2.0 I n c r o m e c t a n t AMEA-100 (Acetamide MEA) P a r t B: 3.0 I n c r o m i d e CAC (Cocamide DEA Cocoyl S a r c o s i n e ) I n c r o m a t e ISML ( I s o s t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l M o r p h o l i n e L a c t a t e ) 4.0 Part C: C r o d a c e l QM (Cocodimonium H y d r o x y p r o p y C e l l u l o s e ) 2.0 C r o d a p e a r l L i q u i d (Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( a n d ) 3.0 H y d r o x y e t h y l Stearamide-MIPA) P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l (and) D i azo1 id i n y l Urea (and) M e t h y l 1. o Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben* Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 60-65C. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 60-65C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e . A d j u s t pH w i t h 10% c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n . Formula SH-92 *Germaben I 1 SOURCE: C r o d a I n c . : S u g g e s t e d Formulas
Shampoos
347
Wheat Germ Conditioning Shampoo Wei u h t ,% Mackanate OP ( D i s o d i u m Oleamido M I P A S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 20.0 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (30%) 24.0 8.0 Mackanate WGD ( D i s o d i u m Wheatgermamido PEG-2 Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) 5.0 Mackam WGB (Wheat Germamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) 5.5 C i t r i c A c i d t o pH Sodium C h l o r i d e qs t o v i s c o s i t y = 20000 c p s qs M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o 100.0 Procedure: 1 . Add s u r f a c t a n t s t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 40 d e g r e e s C . 2 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 . 3 . Add r e m a i n i n g components and a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium chloride. No-Sting 2:l Shampoo Weisht,% 35.0 Mackam 2C 20.0 Sodium L a u r e t h - 1 S u l f a t e 4.0 Mackanate DC-30 3.0 Mackernium 007 2.0 M a c k e s t e r SP q.s. M a c k s t a t DM 7.0-7.5 C i t r i c A c i d q . s . t o pH Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e q . s . t o 100.0 Procedure: 1 . Add Mackam 2C, Sodium L a u r e t h - 1 S u l f a t e , Mackanate DC-30 and M a c k e s t e r SP t o w a t e r . 2 . Heat t o 70C t o b l e n d u n t i l homogenous. 3 . S l o w l y add Mackernium 007. 4. Cool t o 50C and add M a c k s t a t DM. 5 . Add f r a g r a n c e , dye and a d j u s t pH t o 7 . 0 - 7 . 5 . Stripper Shampoo Weight,% 21.5 Dodecylbenzene S u l f o n i c A c i d 5.4 C a u s t i c Soda (50%) 4.0 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (60%) 5.5 Mackam 35 ( C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) 8.0 Sodium X y l e n e S u l f o n a t e ( 4 0 % ) 100.0 Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e q s t o S o l i d s , %: 30+-1.0 pH: 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 V i s c o s i t y ( c p s , 25C): 250-350 C l o u d P o i n t : 5C Procedure: 1 . Add c a u s t i c soda t o w a t e r and a d j u s t pH t o 7 . 0 - 8 . 0 w i t h DDBSA. 2 . Add r e m a i n i n g components and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c acid. 3. If necessary, lower v i s c o s i t y w i t h SXS, o r r a i s e v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Section IX
Shaving Products
348
Shaving Products
349
Aerosol Shaving Cream Inaredients: S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed S t r i p p e d coconut f a t t y a c i d Sorbo
A
6.30 2.70 10.00
B
Water, d e i o n i z e d A1 l a n t o i n
50.00 0.20
C
Potassium h y d r o x i d e Water
1 .70 29.10
D
*Perfume *q.s.
these i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 75C. Add ( B ) and r e h e a t t o 75C. Add (C) s l o w l y , w i t h a g i t a t i o n . M i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s , m a i n t a i n i n g t e m p e r a t u r e a t 75C. Cool s l o w l y w h i l e a g i t a t i n g s l o w l y . Add (D) a t 35C. P r e p a r e a e r o s o l s h a v i n g cream cans and p r e s s u r e f i l l each can w i t h 3% t o 4% i s o b u t a n e - p r o p a n e , 40 p s i g t o 46 p s i g . Nonionic Aerosol Foam
96w/w
Inqredients: Cetyl alcohol B r i j 721s
4.30 2.20
A
93.25 0.17
B
W a t e r , d e i o n i zed Sorbic acid
C
Fougere Lavender, F r i t z s c h e , D&O
0.08
-PRESSURIZED
Above c o n c e n t r a t e ( 1 6 0 . 0 g ) D i f l u o r o e t h a n e , Dymel 152A ( 8 m l s )
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 7%. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n and add (C) a t 35C. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 w i t h d i l u t e NaOH. Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . C o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i s l o w enough t o p o u r .
SOURCE:
I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
350
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
After Shave Balm D r y F l o PC i s a h i g h l y w a t e r r e s i s t a n t s t a r c h , p r o v i d e s a s i l k y smooth e l e g a n t f e e l , and i s t a l c f r e e . %w/w Inqredients: Phase A : E s t o l 1550 4.00 2.50 C u t i n a CP L o n z e s t 143-S 3.00 I v a r l a n 3230 1.50 Phase B : Dei o n i zed Water 61.60 A l c o l e c BS 1 .oo C a r b o p o l 941 (2% Aq. S o l n . ) 10.00 NaOH (25%) 0.40 Methylparaben 0.15 Propylparaben 0.15 Phase C : G l y c e r i n (99.5%) 7.00 D r y - F l o PC 8.00 0.20 Phenoxyethanol Phase D: Fragrance 0.50 Procedure: Combine Phase B, h e a t t o 80C. Combine Phase A, h e a t t o 80C. A t 80C add A t o 9, m i x f o r 15 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 40C. Phase C; s l u r r y D r y - F l o PC i n t o G l y c e r i n , add t o A/B a t 40C. Add Phenoxy e t h a n o l , m i x w e l l . Add Phase D. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co.: Formula 8062-16 Shave Gel The p r o d u c t w i l l r a i s e t h e h a i r o f f t h e f a c e t o make f o r a c l o s e r c u t w i t h o u t i r r i t a t i o n . The H e x a n e d i o l Behenyl Beeswax s t a b i l i z e s t h e s i l i c o n e o i l t o l e a v e t h e s k i n s i l k y and smooth. Phase A : H e x a n e d i o l Behenyl Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 3.0% Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2.0% P e r m e t h y l 104A ( P e r m e t h y l ) 3.0% P o l y b u t e n e (Amoco) 4.0% 0.6% I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) P a l m i t i c A c i d ( P r o c t o r & Gamble) 1.4% Phase B: P u r i f i e d Water 63.9% T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (Dow) 0.8% 12.0% C a r b o p o l 940 2% d i s p e r s i o n (B.F. G o o d r i c h ) A l o e V e r a Gel ( A c t i v e O r g a n i c s ) 0.8% Phase C : S i l i c o n e 345 (Dow) 6.7% A1 1a n t o i n ( S u t t o n ) 0.8% , 1.0% Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n ) Heat and m i x Phase A and add t o a h e a t e d and m i x e d Phase 9. Cool t o 50C and add phase C, one a t a t i m e . Cool t o 40C and p o u r in t o c o n t a i n e r s . F r a g r a n c e s , a c t i v e s and o t h e r s i l i c o n e o i l s c a n be i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h i s t y p e o f f o r m u l a , w i t h o n l y m i n i m a l changes i n s t a b i l i t y and p e r f o r m a n c e . SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Shaving Products
351
After Shave Conditioner T h i s m u l t i - p h a s e e m u l s i o n (o/w/a) i s v e r y s t a b l e and has wonderful s k i n f e e l . Besides t h e p r e v i o u s l y mentioned advantages. Cera B e l l i n a p r o d u c e s a p r o d u c t w i t h good v i s c o s i t y c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s i n a product o f low s o l i d s content.
O i l Phase: L i g h t M i n e r a l O i 1, C a r n a t i o n (Wi t c o ) Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) Glycerol Monostearate (Henkel) D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax V i t a m i n E (Van Dyk) P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) Water Phase: Water ( d i s t i l l e d ) Butylene Glycol (Arco) G l y c e r o l (Unichema) M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (Dow) A l c o h o l Phase: SDA-30 (Quantum) Benzocaine ( N a t i o n a l S t a r c h ) Carboxy M e t h y l C e l l u l o s e ( H e r c u l e s )
7.5% 4.0% 3.3% 2.0% 0 5% 0.1% I
64.0% 5.0% 1 .O%
0.3% 1 .O%
10.0% 1 .O% 0.3%
Procedure: Combine components o f t h e wax phase i n a v e s s e l , m e l t and m i x m a i n t a i n i n g a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C. Heat t h e w a t e r phase t o 75C i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l making s u r e t h e components a r e a l l d i s s o l v e d . S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase u n d e r l o w s h e a r . Cool t o 35 t o 40C and t h e n add t h e a l c o h o l phase under l o w s h e a r . T h i s w i l l e n s u r e t h a t t h e f r i c t i o n w i l l n o t i n c r e a s e t h e t e m p e r a t u r e which w i l l evaporate t h e a l c o h o l . A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : A l t e r a t i o n s i n component c o n c e n t r a t i o n s c a n b e a c h i e v e d b y t h e a d d i t i o n o f t h e secondary e m u l s i f y i n g a g e n t s . T h i s w e l l a l l o w f o r a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s t o be added a t t h e same t i m e as m a i n t a i n i n g t h e s t a b i l i t y and r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s .
SOURCE:
K o s t e r Keunen, I n c , : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
352
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Alcohol Free After Shave Lotion Ingredients: Part I: Water Phenyl Dimethicone Carbomer 940 Triethanolamine (99%) Part 11: Water Phospholipid SV Mentho 1
%
by Weight 66.00 1.50 0.30 0.60
30.00 1.00 0.10
Procedure: Slurry Carbomer 940 into Dimethicone then mix well with the water. After the Carbomer 940 is dissolved, add triethanolamine. In a separate container blend and heat the water, menthol and Phospholipid SV to 75-8OC. When dissolved, blend Part I1 to Part I mixing well. Add color, fragrance and preservative as required and package. Conditioning After Shave Toner %
by Weight
Part I: Water Carbomer 940 (Premix) Phenyl Dimethicone (Premix) Triethanolamine (99%) Part 11: Water Phospholipid SV SD3A Alcohol
51.00 0.35 2.00 0.60
30.05 1.00
15.00
Procedure: Part I: Slurry Carbomer 940 into water by first mixing it with Phenyl Dimethicone. Allow to mix until homogenous. When Part I1 is ready, neutralize Part I with TEA. Add Part I1 and blend together until a smooth lotion is formed. Part 11: Mix water and Phospholipid SV. Heat to 6 5 with agitation until the Phospholipid SV is dissolved. Cool to 30-40C and add SD3A alcohol. Add to Part I. SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Suggested Formulations
Shaving Products
353
Brushless Shave Cream T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n f e a t u r e s Vanseal NACS-30, sodium c o c o y l s a r c o s i n a t e , Vanseal CS, c o c o y l s a r c o s i n e and p o t a s s i u m c o c o a t e as h i g h f o a m i n g y e t m i l d s u r f a c t a n t s . S o r b i t o l adds humectancy w h i l e PVP and t a l c p r o v i d e l u b r i c i t y . S t e a r i c a c i d , p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l s t e a r a t e , and c e t y l a l c o h o l a r e i n c l u d e d as t h i c k e n e r s and t o p r o v i d e p l e a s a n t a f t e r - f e e l . % by W t . 15.00 2.50 25.75 35 .OO 5.00 0.75
Inaredient: A Vanseal NACS-30 Vanseal CS Dei o n i zed Water P o t a s s i u m Cocoate ( 2 ) S o r b i t o 1 , 70% PVP ( 3 ) B
Talc ( 4 )
5.00
C
Stearic Acid Propylene Glycol Stearate (5) Cetyl Alcohol
7.00 2.50 1.50
D
P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, F r a g r a n c e (2) (3) (4) (5)
L i q u i d Coconut Soap, PVP K-30 AGI Talc C e r a s y n t PA
q.s.
40%
Preparation: M i x A i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r and h e a t t o 55C w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add B t o A w i t h adequate a g i t a t i o n . Heat C t o 60C. Add C t o ( A + B), m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m and homogeneous. Cool t o 30C and add D . Consistency:
F l o w a b l e g e l ( V i s c o s i t y : 2500-3500 c p s )
Suggested Packaging:
P l a s t i c b o t t l e o r pump.
Comments : T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o s e r v e as a g u i d e f o r t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r improvement o f e x i s t i n g o n e s .
SOURCE:
R.T. V a n d e r b i l t Co.,
I n c . : Formula No. 4 3 4
354
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Emulsion for Shaving
%w/w
Insredients: Cetearyl alcohol A r l a c e l 186 B r i j 721s
3.00 1.oo 3.00
A
B
Water, d e i o n i zed
C
*Dowicil *q. s .
93.00
200
t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and h e a t ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and s t i r . Cool t o a b o u t 35C and add (C) and w a t e r t o compensate f o r t h e l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . S t i r t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and package. A d j u s t pH t o 5-6. Formula C P 1082 Soap Free - Nonionic Shaving Emul
%w/w
Innredients: A Cetearyl alcohol A r l a c e l 186 B r i j 721s B
C
Water, d e i o n i z e d Sorbo, 70% s o r b i t o *Dowicil *q.s.
3.00 1 .oo 3.00 s o l u t i on
83.00 10.00
2 00
these ingred ents.
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and h e a t ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and s t i r . Cool t o a b o u t 35C and add (C) and w a t e r t o compensate f o r t h e l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . S t i r t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and package. A d j u s t pH t o 5-6. Formula CP 1091 SOURCE:
I C 1 Surfactants:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shaving Products
355
Hemostatic After Shave Inqredients: 1 A ) I r g a s a n DP 300 Crodamol DA 2 3 E t h a n o l 95%
?6 w/w
0.01 1 ;oo
50,OO
4 5
B) P r o p y l e n g l y c o l USP Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d
6
C) F r a g r a n c e : Courage 0/243101
0,50
7
D) C e p h a l i p i n
2,oo
2,oo 44 49 n
Procedure: D i s s o l v e phase A ) . M i x phase B ) S l o w l y add phase B ) t o phase A ) . Then add i t e m ( 6 ) . F i n a l l y add i t e m ( 7 ) . A p p l i c a t i o n No. I 001.A/4.91
.
Shaving Foam
In a r e d i e n t s : 1 Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d 2 Glycerin 3 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 95% 4 Genapol LRQ l i q u i d 5 E u x y l K-200 6 Stearic Acid 7 L u v i t o l EHO 8 Nipasol M 9 BHT 10 Cocamide DEA 1 1 Fragrance 12 C e p h a l i p i n 13 P h y t a l u r o n a t e
% w/w
71,08 4.00 31 21 5,OO 0,30 8,30 1 ,oo 0,20 0,Ol 0,40 0,50 3,OO 3,OO
Procedure: The f i l l i n g d a t a a r e : C o n c e n t r a t e I s o b u t a n e ( a t 3,2 p s i ) A p p l i c a t i o n No. I 003.0/02.93
SOURCE:
Pentapharm L t d . :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
95% 5%
3-56
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shaving Creme %
.E
20 12.0 5.0 3.0
A . S o f t i s a n 601
M i g l y o l 812 M a r l o w e t TA 6 I m w i t o r 900
0 . NaCl Ampholyt J B 1 3 0 Locron L Water
5.0 5.0 5.0 t o 10 0 . 0
C. Perfume Preservative
qs qs
Preparation: The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e mixed t o g e t h e r and h e a t e d t o 75-8OC. 6 . i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and g r a d u a l l y s t i r r e d i n t o A. Perfume i s i n t r o d u c e d a t a p p r o x . 30C. Shaving Gel A . Mar7 in a t 242/28
Ampholyt J B 130 M a r l a m i d DF 1218 A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d Water
B . S o f t i g e n 767 Perfume Sicomet P a t e n t b l a u * Preservative
% 50 10.0 5.0 1. o to 1 0 0 . 0
.E
2.0 qs
0.05 qs
*Sicornet P a t e n t b l a u ( P a t e n t b l u e ) 80E 131 1% i n S o f t i g e n 767 Preparation: The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e mixed t o g e t h e r and warmed t o a p p r o x . 40C. The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f 6 . a r e mixed t o g e t h e r and added t o A . V i s c o s i t y a t 20C measured i n a B r o o k f i e l d v i s c o m e t e r : 1900 mPa.s.
SOURCE: Huls America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shaving Products
357
Ultra Aerosol Shave Cream for Sensitive Skin Veegum U l t r a , magnesium aluminum s i l i c a t e , i s used i n t h i s emulsion f o r m u l a t o improve t h e s t a b i l i t y o f t h e l u x u r i o u s l a t h e r produced b y c o m b i n i n g Vanseal NACS-30 ( s o d i u m c o c o y l s a r c o s i n a t e ) w i t h s t e a r i c and c o c o n u t a c i d soaps. Vanox PCX a c t s as an a n t i oxidant i n t h i s formulation. Inaredient : Veegum U l t r a (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e ) Dei o n i zed Water
% by W t .
1.oo 75.80
G1 y c e r in Triethanolamine
3.00 4.00
S t e a r i c A c i d XXX Coconut A c i d ( 2 ) Mineral O i l Cetyl Alcohol Vanox PCX (BHT)
6.00 1 .30 2 -50 1.oo 0.20
Vanseal NACS-30 (Sodium Cocoyl S a r c o s i n a t e ) Methylparaben Fragrance
5.00 0.20
(2)
q.s
Emery 622
Procedure: S i f t Veegum U l t r a i n t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a t 700 rpm. I n c r e a s e t h e m i x e r speed t o 1700 r p m and m i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s . Add t h e B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown w h i l e m i x i n g a t 1700 rpm and h e a t i n g t o 75C. M i x t h e C i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 75C. S l o w l y add C t o (A and 8 ) . A d j u s t t h e m i x e r speed t o a v o i d a i r e n t r a p m e n t and e x c e s s i v e f o a m i n g . M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 75C, t h e n s l o w t h e m i x e r w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 30C. Add t h e D i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown and m i x each u n t i l u n i f o r m . Package i n a e r o s o l c o n t a i n e r s u s i n g 9 5 . 0 w t % o f Formula N o . 451 and 5 . 0 w t . % A-46 p r o p e l l e n t . Product C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s : V i s c o s i t y : 500-700 c p s pH: 8 . 0 + - 0 . 2 Comments : T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o s e r v e as a g u i d e f o r t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones. SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co.,
Inc.:
F o r m u l a t i o n No. 451
Section X Soaps and Hand Cleaners
358
Soap and Hand Cleaners
359
Economy Heavy-Duty Hand Cleaners
Wt.% Rhodapon s0 82081s A1 kamide LE Rhodacal A-246/L Triethanolamine Oleic Acid Glycerine A1 kamu 1s EGMS Sodium C h l o r i d e F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
17.5 0.7 3.8 0.5 1. o 0.6
0.9 3-4
Q.S. Q . S . t o 100
Wt.% Rhodapon SB 8208/S A1 kamide D I N 295/S Rhodacal A-246/L Triethanolamine Oleic Acid G1 y c e r i ne A1 kamul s EGMS Sodi um C h l o r i d e F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
17.5 0.7 3.8 0.5 1.o 0.5 0.9 2-3
Q.S. Q.S.
t o 100
Procedure: Charge w a t e r i n t o r e a c t o r and warm t o 75-8OC. W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , b l e n d i n i n g r e d i e n t s as l i s t e d . Cool t o 30-35C and b l e n d i n f r a g r a n c e , dye, p r e s e r v a t i v e . T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i es : Appearance @ 25C: P e a r l , l o t i o n - l i ke l i q u i d cps V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 4,000-5,000 Formula HA-0097 SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
360
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Emulsion Cleaner Ingredients: Water Acusol 820 S t a b i 1 iz e r (30%) D e o d o r i zed Kerosene NaOH ( 5 0 % )
% as Suppl ie.d
88.1 1.7 10.0 0.2
B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y c p s , @ 0 . 5 rpm: 21,000 @ 12 rpm: 2,300 pH: 9 . 2 M i x i ng I n s t r u c t i o n s : Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e l i s t e d o r d e r . H i gh-shear m i x i ng i s n e c e s s a r y t o d i s p e r s e t h e s o l v e n t s (kerosene, o i l )
Waterless Hand Cleaner Inqredients: Water Acusol 820 S t a b i l i z e r ( 3 0 % ) NPElO D e o d o r i z e d Kerosene Mineral O i l NaoH ( 5 0 % )
% a s Suppl i e d 47.1 1.7 3.0 38.0 10.0 0.2
B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y c p s , @ 0 . 5 rpm: 4,000,000 pH: 7 . 8 Mixing Instructions: Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e l i s t e d o r d e r . H i gh-shear m i x i ng i s n e c e s s a r y t o d i s p e r s e t h e s o l v e n t s (kerosene, o i 1)
.
SOURCE: Rohm and Haas C o . : ACUSOL 820 S t a b i l i z e r : Suggested Formulations
Soap and Hand Cleaners
361
Emulsion Cleaner and Waterless Hand Cleaner Emulsion Cleaner Ingredients: Water A c u s o l 8 2 0 S t a b i 1 iz e r ( 3 0 % ) D e o d o r i z e d Kerosene NaOH ( 5 0 % )
% as s u p p l i e d
88.1 1.7 10.0 0.2
B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y c p s @ 0 . 5 rpm: 21,000 @ 1 2 rpm: 2,300 wH: 9 . 2 Waterless Hand Cleaner Ingredients: Water Acusol 820 S t a b i l i z e r NPElO D e o d o r i zed Kerosene Mineral O i l NaOH ( 5 0 % )
% as s u p p l i e d
(30%)
47.1 1.7 3.0
38.o 10.0 0.2
B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y @ 0 . 5 rpm: 4,000,000 PH: 7 . 8
Mixing Instructions: Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e l i s t e d o r d e r . High-shear m i x i n g i s necessary t o d i s p e r s e t h e s o l v e n t s ( k e r o s e n e , o i 1) SOURCE: Rohm and Haas C o . : A c u s o l 8 2 0 S t a b i l i z e r : Suggested Formu 1 a t ion
362
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Fast Set Waterless Hand Cleaner with d-Limonene F-453 % Bv Weiqht 40.0 12.0 0.5 1.o 2.0 44.5
d - L i monene* Monami ne 1255 Monafax 705 Glycerine Mineral O i l Water
Procedure: Combine i n o r d e r l i s t e d , a d d i n g w a t e r l a s t w i t h good agitation. Formulation Properties: P h y s i c a l Appearance: W h i t e r i n g i n g g e l
*
TABS-D f r o m Union Camp may be s u b s t i t u t e d for d-Limonene Clear Geld-Limonene Waterless Hand Cleaner F-454 % Bv Weight 20.0
d - L i monene* Glycerine Monami ne 1255 Monafax 785 Water
20.0 12.0 0.5 47.5
Procedure: Combine i n o r d e r l i s t e d , a d d i n g w a t e r l a s t w i t h good a g i t a t i on. Formulation Properties: P h y s i c a l Appearance: C l e a r r i n g i n g g e l
*
TABS-D
( U n i o n Camp
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s
may be s u b s t i t u t e d f o r d-Limonene Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Soap and Hand Cleaners
363
Hand Cleaners Hand Cleaning Paste
B 22/2: S u l f e t a l TC 50 P u r t o n SFD Carboxymethyl c e l l u l o s e 100% S o f t soap Q u a r t z sand China c l a y Sodium t r i p o l y p h o s p h a t e Water, p e r f u m e , p r e s e r v a t i v e
4.0% 1 .O% 1 .O% 12.0% 60.0% 6.0% 1 .O% q . s . t o make 100.0%
Hand Cleaning Cream, Free of Solvents B 27/8: Part A: M u l s i f a n CPA Oxypon 288 P a r a f f i n o i l DAB Oleic acid T r i e t h a n o ami ne
4.0% 1 .O% 25.0% 5.0% 2.5%
P a r t 8: 1,2-Propy Water
6.0% 56.2%
ene g l y c o l
Part C: Perfume Preservative
0 -2% 0.1% Hand Cleaning Cream with Solvent
0 27/2: Part A: Zusol a t 1005/85 Shellsol T P a r a f f i n o i l DAB A e r o s i l 200 Perfume P a r t 8: Oxypon 2145 E x t r a k t 52 Euxyl K 400 Water Manufacture: P a r t A and P a r t B a r e t o be m i x e d s e p a r a t e l y . Part B t o Part A whilst s t i r r i n g .
10.5% 34.5% 9.0% 1 .O% 0.1-0.2% 2.5% 15.0% 0.2% 27.1-27.2% F i n a l l y add
SOURCE: Zschlmrner & Schwarr GmbH & Co,: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
364
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hand Cleaners from Concentrate Economy W% .t
30.1)
M i r a c a r e ANL F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodi um C h l o r i d e Water
Q.S. 2-3 67.5
Pearlescent
&tiy 32.5 7.5
M i r a c a r e ANL M i r a s h e e n 202 F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water
Q.S. 0.5-1 - 5 59.0 Premium
Wt.% 40.0 Q.S.
M i r a c a r e ANL F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water
0.5-1.5 59.0 Lotion
Wt.% M i r a c a r e ANL Opaci f ie r E-305 F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodi urn C h l o r i de Water
37.5 0.5 Q.S.
1-2 60.5
Procedure: Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n M i r a c a r e ANL. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m and t h e n b l e n d i n r e m a i n i n g ingredients i n order l i s t e d . Adjust formulation viscosity t o d e s i r e d l e v e l w i t h a d d i t i o n o f sodium c h l o r i d e , as needed. Physical Properties: Appearance: C l e a r , y e l l o w , p e a r l i z e d o r opaque pH, as i s : 7-0 V i s c o s i t y : 2000-4000 cps Formula HA-0096
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Soap and Hand Cleaners
365
Industrial and Institutional Liquid Hand Soaps Glucopon & AS Water Standapol WAQ-SP Glucopon 425 CS Vel v e t e x BA-35 Sodium C h l o r i d e
61 .O 27.0 6.0 2.8 3.2 Glucopon & LAS
Water Sodium LAS (60%) Glucopon 600 CSUP Vel v e t e x BA-35 Standamid SD
77.2 10.0 8.0 2.8 2.0 Glucopon & AES
Water Standapol ES-2 Glucopon 600 CSUP Standamid SD Vel v e t e x BA-35 Sodium C h l o r i d e
58.9 30.0 6.0 1.o 2.8 1.3 Glucopon & AOS
Water Sodium AOS (40%) Glucopon 600 CSUP Standamid SD V e l v e t e x BA-35 Sodium C h l o r i d e
67.0 20.0 6.0 1.o 2.8 3.2
V i s c o s i t y o f P r o d u c t s : 4000-5000 cPs Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d , d i s s o l v i n g each i n g r e d i e n t c o m p l e t e l y u s i n g moderate a g i t a t i o n . A d j u s t pH t o 6.5-7.0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . I n c o r p o r a t e c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e as needed.
SOURCE:
Henkel Corp.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
366
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Liquid Hand Soap Concentrate (Antimicrobial)
m
Comvonents: V e l v e t e x BA-35 Glycerine Propylene Glycol Triclosan* Glucopon 625 CSUP Sodium C h l o r i d e T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Standapol WAQ-LC
11.7 1.0 1 .o 1 .o 15.6 2.0 1 .o 66.7
Procedure: Add in t h e o r d e r 1 is t e d I d i s s o l v i ng each in g r e d i e n t c o m p l e t e l y u s i n g moderate a g i t a t i o n . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d . I n c o r p o r a t e p r e s e r v a t i v e ; c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e as needed. For use, c o n c e n t r a t e s h o u l d be d i l u t e d by t h e a d d i t i o n of 25 w t % c o n c e n t r a t e t o 71.5 w t % d e i o n i z e d w a t e r and 3.5 w t % sodium c h l o r i d e s o l u t i o n (25%). The r e s u l t i n g c l e a r l i q u i d hand soap w i l l have a v i s c o s i t y o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 6,000 c p s . May a l s o use P-Chloromela x y l e n o l (PCMX)
*
Waterless Hand Cleaner (Gel)
O i l Phase: Deodori zed Kerosene Emersol 213 T r y c o l 5963 Standamid KD Water Phase: Water Triethanolamine Glycerine
40.0 7.5 5.0 1 .o
m 41 .O
3.5 2.0
Waterless Hand Cleaner (Lotion)
O i l Phase:
W
Oeodori zed Kerosene Emersol 213 G l y c e r i n e o r PEG S t e a r a t e Water Phase: Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Glucopon 425 CS
40.0 7.5
a
2.0
40.0 3.0 3.0 4.5
Procedure: M i x t h e o i l and w a t e r phases s e p a r a t e l y i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d , h e a t i n g b o t h t o 60C. S l o w l y p o u r t h e o i l i n t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g u n t i l a homogeneous p r o d u c t i s formed. I n c o r p o r a t e c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e as needed.
SOURCE: Henkel C o r p , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Soap and Hand Cleaners
367
Liquid Hand Soap Formulations Miracare ANK is also an ideal base for preparation of emollient "Liquid Hand Soap" products. The rich creamy lather typical of formulations derived from Miracare ANK is extremely stable even in the presence of heavy soils. Lotion Hand Soap Requires No Heat Water Miracare ANK Mirasheen 202 Fragrance, Dye, Preservative Sodium Chloride
61.0 30.0 7.5 Q.S. 1 .5
Blending Procedure: Charge water into mixing vessel and blend balance of ingredients in order listed. Cream Soap (Requires Heat) Water Mi racare ANK Alkamuls EGMS Fragrance, Dye, Preservative Sodium Chloride
62.0 35.0 1 .5 Q.S. 1 .5
Blending Procedure: Charge water and ANK into m i x i n g vessel and heat to 75C. Add and disperse Alkamuls EGMS. Cool with mixing to 4OC and blend in remaining ingredients. Liquid Hand Soap Rhodaterge SMC Water Perfume, Dye, Preservative SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc: Suggested Formulations
Parts bv Weight 8 92 Q.S.
368
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Liquid Soap
% 32.0
M a r l in a t 242/28 M a r l in a t CM 1 0 5 Amphol y t JA 1 4 0 D i o n i l OC/K Lamepon S Camomi 1e Speci a1 Lime Blossom S p e c i a l C o l l a g e n CLR Perfume Colour Preservative NaCl Water
18.0 10.0 3.0 2.0 0.5 0.5 0.8
qs qs
qs qs t o 11 0 0 . 0
Preparation: The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . Liquid Soap %
M a r l i n a t 242/28 Lamepon S M a r l i n a t DFN 30 M a r l a m i d PG 20 M a r l a m i d DF 1 2 1 8 Perfume Col o u r Preservative NaCl Water
22
10.0 6.0
3.0 1.o qs
qs qs qs t o 100.0
P r e p a r a t i on : The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .
SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
.o
369
Soap and Hand Cleaners
Liquid Synthetic Soaps
0 21/65: Z e t e s o l NL P u r t o n SFD Sodi um s u l f a t e Perfume C i t r i c acid Water, p r e s e r v a t iv e
43.00%
3.00% 3.00% 0.20% 0.05% q . s . t o make 100.00%
0 21/64: E x t r a k t 52 P u r t o n SFD Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e , sodium chloride
30.0% 2.0% q . s . t o make 100.0%
0 21/61: Z e t e s o l 856 T S e t a c i n 103 S p e z i a l P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055 P u r t o n SFD Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e , perfume, c i t r i c acid
25.0%
10.0% 5.0% 1 .O% sodium c h l o r i d e , q.s
B 21/92: Z e t e s o l 2056 S e t a c i n 103 s p e z i a l P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4175 Oxypon 288 Sodium c h l o r i d e Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e 0 21/87: Z e t e s o l 2056 Amphotensid B 4 P u r t o n CFD Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e SOURCE: Zschdmmer & Schwarr GmbH & C o . :
t o make 100.0%
25 0% 30.0% 10.0% I
2.0% 2,0% q . s . t o make 1 0 0 , 0 %
20 0% I
9.0% 1.5%
0.3% q . s . t o make 100.0%
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
370
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Liquid Soap with Aloe Vera Gel T h i s i s a c l e a n s i n g and c o n d i t i o n i n g l i q u i d soap w i t h A l o e Vera. Phase A : Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e , 28% a c t i v e 35.70 Ammonium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , 26% a c t i v e 19.20 Phase B: C i t r i c a c i d , anhydrous 0.20 Phase C : Dei o n i zed w a t e r 20.45 Polyquaternium-10 0.75 Phase D: Laurami de DEA 3.00 L a u r y l m e t h y l g l u c e t h - 1 0 h y d r o x y p r o p y l dimonium 8.00 chloride PEG-120 m e t h y l g l u c o s e d e o l e a t e 2.00 0 I20 T e t r a s o d i urn EDTA Phase E : A l o e Vera Gel ( T e r r y AG002) 10.00 Phase F: Suttocide A 0.30 Fragrance qs Procedure: Add Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s t o main m i x i n g v e s s e l , and combine w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Heat t o 60C. D i s s o l v e Phase B i n g r e d i e n t s . I n a p r e m i x c o n t a i n e r , d i s p e r s e Phase C in g r e d i e n t s Heat t o 60C t o h y d r a t e . When Phase A i s u n i f o r m , add Phase C t o main v e s s e l , a g i t a t i n g between each a d d i t i o n . Cool b a t c h t o 40C. S l o w l y add Phases E and F w i t h adequate m i x i n g . SOURCE: T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
m
Pearlescent Liquid Hand Soap Inaredient: Water DOBSA, Na s a l t (60%) Add, m i x w e l l L a u r y l e t h e r s u l f a t e , Ammon. Add, m i x w e l l L y t r o n 295 o p a c i f i e r Add, m i x w e l l E u p e r l a n PK-771 p e a r l i z e r Add, m i x w e l l Tomah A0-728 S p e c i a l Add, m i x w e l l
-
Wt% 54.70 23.50
s a l t (60%)
0.10
2.20
3.00
pH: 7.85 Recommended D i l u t i o n s : 1 o t . / g a l A p p l i c a t i o n s : Hand soap o r dishwash Notes: H i g h foam, d e g r e a s i n g - l a n o l i n V i s c o s i t y 360 cps
SOURCE:
Tomah L a b o r a t o r i e s ,
16.50
Inc.:
can be added f o r f e e l
Formula PC-101
Soap and Hand Cleaners
371
Low Cost Clear Cleansing Bar Inaredients: % Part A: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 11 . o G1 y c e r i n 7.0 C r o v o l PK-70 (PEG-45 Palm K e r n e l G l y c e r i d e s ) 3.0 I n c r o m e c t a n t AMEA-70 (Acetamide MEA) 9.3 C r o d a s i n i c LS30 ( S o d i um L a u r o y l S a r c o s i n a t e ) 6.7 I n c r o m i d e CAC (Cocamide DEA Cocoyl S a r c o s i n e ) 7.0 9.0 Teals* Dei o n i zed Water 6.0 Sodium Cumenesulfonate (45%) 2.0 TEA (99%) 2.0 Part B: Sucrose 9.0 Part C: T a l l o w Soap #7325 28.0 Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 80-9OC. Add P a r t 0 w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 95-1OOC. M i x i n g u n t i l t a l l o w i s d i s s o l v e d (20-30 m i n u t e s ) . A v o i d w a t e r l o s s by c o v e r i n g m i x i n g v e s s e l . S k i n o f f s u r f a c e foam and p o u r i n t o m o l d s . A l l o w molded soap t o cool N.A.T.C. Approved *Standami de T SOURCE: Croda I n c , : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-252 I
Shower Soap Weight . % Mackanate EL ( D i s o d i u m L a u r e t h S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) Mackanate OM ( D i s o d i um 01 eamido MEA S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) Sodi um L a u r y l - S u l f a t e Mackami de LLM (Laurami de DEA) Mackpearl LV ( P e a r l A g e n t ) Mackernium 007 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m 7 ) M a c k s t a t DM (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) C i t r i c A c i d qs t o pH 6 . 0 Sodium C h l o r i d e qs t o 10,000 cps Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o Procedure: 1. D i s p e r s e Mackernium 007 i n w a t e r . 2. Add r e m a i n i n g component and h e a t t o 40 degrees C . 3. A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 4. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . 5 . Cool and f i l l .
SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
20.0 15.0 10.0 6.0
3.0 2.5 9s 100.0
372
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
"Medicated" Skin Cleaner
Wt.% Rhodapon LT-6 RhodaDon 21 LS 50% Sodi u m H y d r o x i de Aqueous Sol u t i on PCMX
l.S.
25.0 30.0 t o pH 8 . 0 1. o 23.4 2.5 7.5 10.0 0.6
Water A l k a m i d e DL 203/S C y c l o t e r i c BET C 30 Geropon SBFA 30 A1 kamu 1s EGMS Q.S. F r a g r a n c e and Dye Procedure: 1 . Charge Rhodapon LT-6 and Rhodapon 21LS i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l . Warm system t o 45-50C. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , a d j u s t pH t o 8 . 0 w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n (50% A q . ) , as needed. 2. W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n PCMX. M i x u n t i l system i s c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . 3 . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n A l k a m i d e DL 203/S and w a t e r . Heat system t o 70-75C w i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n . 4. S l o w l y b l e n d i n C y c l o t e r i c BET C 30, Geropon SBFA 30 and A1 kamul s EGMS. M a i n t a i n 70-75C t e m p e r a t u r e u n t i 1 system is c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . Cool t o 40-45C and b l e n d i n c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e and dye. T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i e s A f t e r 24 H o u r s : Appearance: V i s c o u s , p e a r l e s c e n t l i q u i d pH ( a s i s ) : 8 . 0 - 8 . 5 V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 10,000-14,000 cps Approx. S o l i d s ( % ) : 3 0 . 4 A c t i v e I n g r e d i e n t : P a r a c h l o r o m e t a x y l e n o l (PCMX) F o r m u l a HA-0100 Heavy-Duty Hand Cleaner
Wt.%
Rhodapon S 0 8208/S 30.0 Rhodacal A-246/L 6.3 Oleic Acid 1.6 Triethanolamine 0.9 M i r a s h e e n 202 10.0 Sodium C h l o r i d e 1-3 Q.S. F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Water Q.S t o 100 Procedure: Charge Rhodapon SB 8208/S, Rhodacal A-246/L, T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , M i r a s h e e n 202 and Water i n t o r e a c t o r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . S l o w l y b l e n d i n o l e i c a c i d f o l l o w e d by f r a g r a n c e , dye, p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y b y b l e n d i n g i n sodium c h l o r i d e . C o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n u n t i l system i s u n i f o r m and t h e n package. Typical Properties: Appearance: W h i t e , p e a r l i z e d l i q u i d pH, as i s : 7-8 V i s c o s i t y : 2000-3000 c p s Formula HA-0098
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Soap and Hand Cleaners
373
Mild Lotion Soap
Wt.% Rhodapon L-22 Rhodapex MA-360 C y c l o t e r i c BET-C-30 A1 kamide DC 212/S Geropon SBFA-30 A1 kamul s EGMS C i t r i c Acid Sodium C h l o r i d e Water F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e
17.0 3.0 2.0 1.5 5.0 1.o
Q.S.
t o pH 5-6 0.5-1.5 69.5
Q.S.
Procedure: Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n Rhodapon L-22, Rhodapex MA-360, C y c l o t e r i c BET-C-30, A l k a m i d e DC 212/S, and Rhodacal SBFA-30. M i x u n t i 1 c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . Heat systems t o 65-70C. D i s p e r s e A l k a m u l s EGMS i n t o h e a t e d system and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 40-45C and b l e n d i n c i t r i c a c i d , f r a g r a n c e , dye and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Add sodium c h l o r i d e , as needed, t o a d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n t o d e s i r e d r a n g e (3,000-6,000 cps a t 25C). T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i es : Appearance a t 25C: P e a r l e s c e n t l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 25C: 3,000-6,000 cps ( a s d e s i r e d ) pH ( a s i s ) : 5-6 % S o l i d s : 13.5-14.5 Formula HA-0103 Liquid Hand Soap W% .t 10.0 30.0 2.0 58.0
M i r a t a i n e CB Rhodapon LSB Cyclomide DC-212/S Water
Procedure: Add t h e w a t e r . W i t h m i x ng, add t h e r e m a i n ng m a t e r i a l s and mix u n t i l uniform. Physical Properties: Appearance: C l e a r , v e r y l i g h t y e l l o w s o l u t on pH: 8 . 9 - 9 . 0 V i s c o s i t y : 600-700 S p e c i f i c G r a v i t y : 1 .04 Formula HA-0071
SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc:
Sugeested F o r m u l a t i o n s
374
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Premium Emollient Hand Soap
Wt.% Rhodacal A-246/L C y c l o t e r i c BET-C 30 Alkamide LE Alkamul EGMS D i s o d i um EDTA Glycerine C i t r i c Acid Sodium C h l o r i d e F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Water
23.0 4.5 1.5 2.0 0.1 0.2 Q.S. t o pH 6 . 2 - 6 . 7 Q.S. t o 3,000-5,000 cps Q.S. Q . S . t o 100
Procedure: Combine Rhodacal A-246/L and Water and w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n , warm t o 70-75C. B l e n d i n Alkamide LE, Alkamul EGMS, Disodium EDTA and G l y c e r i n e . Once system i s u n i f o r m , c o o l t o 35C w i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n and b l e n d i n f r a g r a n c e , dye, p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 6.2-6.7 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d and add sodium c h l o r i d e as needed t o v i s c o s i t y t o 3,000-5,000 cps (25C). Typical Properties: Appearance: P e a r l i z e d l i q u i d pH, as i s : 6 . 2 - 6 . 7 V i s c o s i t y : 3000-5000 cps Formula HA-0095 Hand Cleaner
Wt.% 16.0 5.0
M i r a n o l C2M Conc. NP M i r a t a i n e CB Rhodapon LSB Water
16.0 63.0
A d j u s t pH t o 7 . 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Procedure: Add t h e w a t e r . W i t h m i x i n g , add t h e r e m a i n i n g m a t e r i a l s and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Physical Properties: Appearance: S l i g h t l y hazy g e l pH: 7 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 1500-2000 Speci f ic G r a v i t y : 1 .040B Formula HA-0070
SOURCE:
Rhone-Poulenc:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Soap and Hand Cleaners
A l l quantities indicated e x p r e s s e d as p a r t s by w e i g h t a r e on a p e r c e n t a g e b a s i s so any s i z e b a t c h may be conven
375
n the following formulations are o f t h e f i n i s h e d soap. These w e i g h t s t h a t q u a n t i t i e s necessary t o produce ently calculated.
6) Triethanolamine Oleic-Coconut Shampoo (40% Real Soap) Emery 621 Coconut F a t t y A c i d ( a c i d v a l u e 263) 12.7 Emery 213 Low T i t e r O l e i c A c i d ( a c i d v a l u e 203) 12.7 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e ( a v g . m o l . w t . 140) 14.7 Carbi t o 1 7.0 Water t o 100.0 Procedure: B l e n d t h e o l e i c and c o c o n u t f a t t y a c i d s . D i s s o l v e t h e t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e i n t h e r e q u i r e d amount o f w a t e r and p r o c e e d as f o r t h e c o c o n u t shampoo, f o r m u l a 4 , w i t h t h e e x c e p t i o n t h a t h e a t i n g i s n o t e s s e n t i a l . Longer s t a n d i n g i s r e q u i r e d w i t h o u t h e a t , b u t t h e a b i l i t y t o make soaps w i t h o u t h e a t i n g may be v a l u a b l e i n particular situations. P r o p e r t i e s and V a r i a t i o n s : T h i s soap p r o d u c t i s a c l e a r l i q u i d o f amber t o r e d c o l o r , v e r y m i l d and n o n i r r i t a t i n g . The C a r b i t o l g i v e s t h e soap a p l e a s i n g o d o r and c o n t r i b u t e s t o t h e c l e a n s i n g power o f t h e shampoo. T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e soaps c a n n o t be checked f o r n e u t r a l i t y b y t h e u s u a l methods, b u t even i f an e x c e s s o f t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e i s p r e s e n t , t h e soap w i 11 be on1 y m i 1d l y a1 k a l in e . 7) Coconut-Oleic Hand Soap (15% Real Soap) Emery 621 Coconut F a t t y A c i d ( a c i d v a l u e 263) Emersol 213 Low T i t e r O l e i c A c i d ( a c i d v a l u e 203) C a u s t i c p o t a s h (100%) Water
6.5 6.5
3.0 t o 100.0
Procedure: P r e p a r e as f o r f o r m u l a t i o n 4: D i s s o l v e t h e c a u s t i c i n t h e n e c e s s a r y amount o f w a t e r , h e a t i n g t o 49-54C (120-130F), t h e n add t h e f a t t y a c i d i n a s l o w s t e a d y s t r e a m . A g i t a t e w h i l e m i x i n g t h e f a t t y a c i d and c a u s t i c u n t i l s a p o n i f i c a t i o n i s c o m p l e t e . The r e a c t i o n m i x t u r e s h o u l d be h e a t e d t o 66-71C (150-16OF) d u r i n g t h e f i n a l stages o f s a p o n i f i c a t i o n . Check t h e n e u t r a l i t y o f t h e soap and a d j u s t as n e c e s s a r y . Perfume as d e s i r e d . A l l o w t h e soap t o s t a n d and s e t t l e f o r s e v e r a l days a t n e a r f r e e z i n g t e m p e r a t u r e s , i f p o s s i b l e , and d e c a n t o r f i l t e r t h e soap. P r o p e r t i e s and V a r i a t i o n s : D i s t i l l e d p i n e o i l o r o t h e r p e r f u m e may be added. T h i s i s a t y p i c a l f o r m u l a f o r soaps used i n l i q u i d soap d i s p e n s e r s , and many such p r o d u c t s c o n t a i n f l u o r e s c e i n , a dye t h a t i m p a r t s a g r e e n i sh-ye1 l o w f 1u o r e s c e n c e . SOURCE: Henkel Corp./Emery Group: F a t t y A c i d s and T h e i r Water S o l u b l e Soaps: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
376
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Water Free Hand Cleaner
w
Inaredients: Isostearic acid Mineral o i l B r i j 30 Tween 81
20.00
60.00 15.00 5.00
Procedure: M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . Waterless Hand Cleaner Ingredients: A I s o p a r a f f i n i c hydrocarbon Lanol i n C e t y l a1 coho1 P a r a f f i n wax A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60 B
Glycerin Water, d e i o n i zed *Preservative * q . s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .
30.00 1.00
3.00 2.00 1 .oo
4.00 5.00
54.00
Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add w a t e r l o s t due t o evaporation. Waterless Hand Cleaner Inaredients: Magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1 i c a t e Water, d e i o n i zed
A
B
C
A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60 Deodori zed kerosene M e t h y l c e l l u l ose, 4000 cps Water, d e i o n i zed *Preservative * q . s . these ingredients.
%w/w 2.50
30.00 2.00 8.00
35.00 0.50 22.00
Procedure: A-Add MAS t o H20 s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g c o n t i n u a l l y u n t i l smooth. (About 1 h o u r ) . Heat ( A ) t o 62C. 8-Heat t o 60C. Add ( A ) t o ( 8 ) . S t i r u n t i l c o o l . C-Heat 1 / 2 o f H20 t o 9OC and add m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . Add (C) t o (A&B) w i t h a g i t a t io n . SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Soap and Hand Cleaners
377
Waterless Hand Cleaner W S 3.0
Montmorillonite (1) Water
39.5
B.
Potassium H y d r o x i d e Water
1.5 10
C.
Oleic Acid D e o d o r i z e d Kerosene P o l y s o r b a t e 80, A c e t y l a t e d Lanol i n A1 coho1 , Cetyl Acetate (2) Petrolatum
6.0 25.0
Acuscrub 50 Preservatives
10.0 q.s.
A.
D.
3.0 2.0
Procedure: S l o w l y add t h e M o n t m o r i l l o n i t e t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r . D i s s o l v e t h e p o t a s s i u m h y d r o x i d e i n t h e w a t e r , Add B t o A w i t h medium s h e a r . Heat A / B t o 6 0 C . Combine C and h e a t t o 65C. Cool t o 50C, t h e n s l o w l y add Acuscrub 50 u n t i l c o o l e d t o 30C. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e s and m i x u n t i l smoo h and u n i f o r m . ( 2 ) S o l u l a n 98 ( ) M i n e r a l C o l l o i d BP Waterless Hand Cleaner 0 1 Phase: Petroleum D i s t i l l a t e s ( 1 ) Oleic Acid C12-15 P a r e t h - 3 ( 2 ) Lanol i n
W S 30.0
A.
6.0 4.0 0.5
B . Water Phase: Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Glycerin
44.5
3.0 2.0
C . Acuscrub 5 0
Procedure: Heat b o t h o i l and 50 s l o w l y t o t h e o i l t h e w a t e r phase i n t o a smooth and u n i f o r m ( 1 ) S h e l l Sol 71
10.0 w a t e r phases s e p a r a t e l y t o 5 5 C . Add Acuscrub phase w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n , S l o w l y p o u r t h e o i l phase w i t h c o n s t a n t s t i r r i n g u n t i l g e l i s formed. ( 2 ) Neodol 25-3
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
378
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Waterless Hand Cleaner A B C
No. 390
Van Gel B CMC 7MF Water P o t a s s i um h y d r o x i d e Water Oleic acid Carnation White Mineral O i l D e o d o r i z e d kerosene
1.7 0.3 44.0 1.o 3.0 10.0 10.0 30.0
Preservative
q.s.
Procedure: B l e n d Van Gel B and CMC. S l o w l y add t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l smooth. Add B t o A and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add C t o A / B and m i x u n t i l e m u l s i o n i s smooth and u n i f o r m . Add d e s i r e d p r e s e r v a t ive C o n s i s t e n c y : Medi um v i s c o s i t y cream. Suggested Packagi ng: Pump o r w i d e mouth c o n t a i n e r Comments: Van Gel B/CMC t h i c k e n s t h i s c o l d p r o c e s s f o r m u l a t o a medium v i s c o s i t y cream w h i l e s t a b i l i z i n g t h e e m u l s i o n f r o m b l e e d and s e p a r a t i o n . P o t a s s i u m o l e a t e a l l o w s good c l e a n s i n g a c t i o n a t a pH o f 8 . The m i n e r a l o i l m i n i m i z e s d e f a t t i n g o f t h e s k i n caused by t h e d e o d o r i z e d k e r o s e n e .
.
.
Liquid Waterless Hand Cleaner No. A B
C
Veegum Water Glycerin T e r g i t o l NP-10 2-Amino-2-methyl-1-propanol Deodori zed kerosene Oleic acid A r l a c e l 186 C1 e a r l a n Preservative
243 2.0 73.0 4.0 3.0 0.5 10.0 1.5 5.0 1. o q.s.
Procedure: S l o w l y add Veegum t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l smooth. Add B t o A and h e a t t o 50C. Heat C t o 55C. Add C t o A/B. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add d e s i r e d p r e s e r v a t i v e . Consistency: Pourable l i q u i d Suggested Packaging: Pump d i s p e n s e r Comments : Veegum s t a b i l i z e s and t h i c k e n s t h i s l i q u i d e m u l s i o n . I n t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n , g l y c e r i n s e r v e s as a humectant w h i l e t h e l a n o l i n helps prevent d e f a t t i n g o f the skin. SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b l l t Co.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Section XI
Sun Care Products
3 79
380
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Absorbing Sunscreen
%Wt.
Formula: Phase A : Veegum U l t r a Dei o n i zed Water Glycerin
1.50 70.50 5.50
Phase 0 : PEG-1 50 D i s t e a r a t e D i o c t y l Mal a t e Carnation M i neral O i 1 Cetyl Alcohol Benzophenone-3 O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA Steareth-2 Steareth-20 Phase C : Preservative,
3.00 2.00
4.00 0.50 3.00 7.00 0.90 2.10
Fragrance
q.s.
Synergistic Sunscreen 4-tert-Butyl-4-methoxydi-benzoylmethane Amyl N , N - d i m e t h y l -p-ami n o b e n z o a t e 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone Cetyl alcohol Stearic acid P r o t o p e t 1S P e t r o l a t u m Olive O i l Squal ane Propylene g l y c o l P o t a s s i um h y d r o x i d e Talc T r i s o d i um EDTA Water
2.00% 3.00 2.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 5.00 3.00 0.20 5.00 0.02 q . s t o 100.00
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formulations
Sun Care Products
381
Absorbing Sunscreen Formula: Phase A : L - T y r o s i ne Phenyl a1 a n i ne Aspartic acid Esci n Copper g l u c o n a t e Hydro1 yzed c o l l agen Carrot oleoresin S t . J o h n ' s Wort e x t r a c t D i hydroxyacetone Cetyl alcohol Preservative E m u l s i f i e r s , t h i c k e n i n g agents Carnation Mineral O i l Lanol i n Stearin T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (85%) Water
0.20%
0.10 0.10 0.05
0.01 1.50 0.15 1 .oo 0.50 1 .oo q.s.
4.00 15.00 3.00 3.00 1-00 q . s . up t o 100.00
Water Resistant SP4 Sunscreen Composition Water Glycerin Polyglyceryl-8 oleate Padimate 0 Cyclomethicone Carnation Mineral O i 1 Lanol in a1 coho1 Propylene g l y c o l (and) d i a z o l i d i n y l u r ea (and) methyl paraben ( a n d ) p r o p y l paraben (Germaben 1 1 ) Perfume o i l
67.00% 5.00 3.00 4.00 10.00 5.00 5.00 0.50 0.50
Non-Alcoholic Sunscreen O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA Benzophenone-3 Carnation Mineral O i 1 Oleth-2 Isoceteth-20 Water Propylene g l y c o l Sorbi to1
7.00% 3.00 10.00 6.25 18.75 40.00 4.00 11
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formulations
.oo
382
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
After Sun Lotion P a r t I: Water Carbomer 934
P a r t s by Wei a h t 500.0 2.0
P a r t 11: Rosswax 2540 Rosswax 1824 Coconut O i l #76 GMS SE Ross J o j o b a O i 1
6.0 15.0 25.0 6.0 4.0
P a r t 111: A l o e Vera L q u i d
10.0
Part I V : Germaben I 1
6.0
Part V: Fragrance
q.s.
Part V I : Triethanolamine
4.5
Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e and add t h e Carbomer 934 w i t h a g i t a t i o n . I n a s e p a r a t e j a c k e t e d k e t t l e h e a t P a r t I 1 u n t i l c l e a r . Next add P a r t 111, t h e n P a r t I V , t h e n P a r t V , f r a g r a n c e and f i n a l l y add P a r t V I . Cool t o 130F and package. Solar Tanning Oil Mousse Part (A): Ross Base O i l 2539 E s c a l o l 507 A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60 Part ( 9 ) : Water Germaben I 1 Fragrance
%
.s
62 5.0 3.0 4.0
24.7 1 .o q.s
Procedure: Heat P a r t ( A ) and P a r t ( B ) i n s e p a r a t e s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l s under g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n t o 170F. When t e m p e r a t u r e i s r e a c h e d and b o t h a r e c l e a r , add P a r t (B) t o P a r t ( A ) , c o o l t o 120F, F r a g r a n c e and package. 90% o f above c o n c e n t r a t e Aerosol F i l l : 10% o f A-46 P r o p e l l e n t N o t e : Pack i n Epon l i n e d cans w i t h P r e c i s i o n V a l v e Systems.
SOURCE: F r a n k 9 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products
383
Aloe After Sun Lotion (40% Aloe) Percent
Inqredi ents: A . Water G1 y c e r i n Triethanolamine Germaben I 1
74.00 3.0 1 .o 0.5 8.0 5.0 2.0 1.o
0 . Stearic Acid
L i g h t mineral o i l F i n e s o l v TN Cetyl Alcohol S i l i c o n F l u i d 225 Cocoa B u t t e r Isopropyl Lanolate C . A l o e Veragel
0.5 2.0 2.0
L i q u i d C o n c e n t r a t e 1:40
1 .o
q.s.
D . Fragrance
Procedure: Heat phases t o 80C. A t 80C add o i l phase t o w a t e r phase. M i x and c o o l t o 55C. Add A l o e c o n c e n t r a t e t o b a t c h a t 5%. Add f r a g r a n c e a t 45C. Suntan Lotion Inqredients: A . Lexemul 561 Stearic acid C e t y l a1 coho1 Mineral o i l Sesame o i l L a n e t h 10 A c e t a t e E t h y l D i h y d r o x y p r o p y l PABA Mink o i l P o l y s o r b a t e 20 Lexgard P B. P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l Carbomer 934 Triethanolamine A l o e Vera L i q u i d 1:l Lexgard M Water
Percent
4.00 2.00
1 .oo 4.00 1 .oo 0.50 3.00 0.10 0.20 0.05
4.00 0.20 qs t o pH 7 . 2 - 7 . 5
10.00 0.15 qs to 100
Procedure: Heat w a t e r t o 7OC. D i s p e r s e Carbomer 934. M i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d , t h e n n e u t r a l i z e . D i s s o l v e L e x g a r d M i n p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and add t o t h e w a t e r w i t h t h e r e m a i n i n g c o n t e n t s o f P a r t B. S e p a r a t e l y m e l t c o n t e n t s o f P a r t A t o g e t h e r . S l o w l y add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o s e t p o i n t and f i l l . F u l l c o n d i t i o n i n g develops i n 24 hours. SOURCE: D r . Madjs L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
384
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Aloe Suntan Lotion Percent q.s 4.0 1.5 0.1
Ingredients: A . Water G1 y c e r in Glucamate SSG-20 C a r b o p o l 934 Preservatives
q.s
1.5
B. G1 ucate-SS Cetyl alcohol Cetyl palmitate Glyceryl stearate P . E . G . 100 s t e a r a t e Stearic acid E s c a l o l 507 Mineral o i l
1. o 0.22 0.28 4.0 4.0
C . A.M.P.-95
0.32
1.o
5.0
D . A l o e V e r a g e l 200 Powder 0.1 Water 9.9 Procedure: D i s s o l v e t h e S . D . A l o e Vera i n w a t e r t o p r e p a r e g e l . Heat b a l a n c e o f w a t e r t o 80C and d i s s o l v e C a r b o p o l . Add r e s t o f Phase “ A ” and keep t e m p e r a t u r e a t 80C. Heat phase ”B” t o 80C. and add t o ” A ” . Add phase ” C ” . Cool t o 35C. and add ’ I D ” . M i x we1 1 . After Sun Lotion Ingredi ents: A . Water Carbomer B.
Rosswax 2540 Rosswax 1824 Coconut O i l #6 Gms SE Ross J o j o b a O i 1
C . A l o e Vera L i q u i d 1 : l
Percent
500.0 g r . 2.0 g r . 6.0 15.0 15.0 6.0 4.0
gr. gr. gr. gr. gr.
10.0 g r .
D . Germaben I 1
6.0 gr.
E . Fragrance
q.s.
F. Triethanolamine 4.5 g r . Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r i n steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e and add t h e Carbomer 934 w i t h a g i t a t i o n . I n a s e p a r a t e j a c k e t e d k e t t l e , h e a t B t i l l c l e a r . Next add B t o t h e w a t e r phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . N e x t add C, t h e n D, t h e n E , f r a g r a n c e and f i n a l l y add F. Cool t o 130F and package. SOURCE: D r . Madis L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products
385
Buffered Self Tanning Lotion R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a p o u r a b l e l o t i o n t h a t c o u l d be d i s p e n s e d f r o m an opaque g l a s s o r r i g i d p l a s t i c b o t t l e . The f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s a 5% D i h y d r o x y a c e t o n e (DHA) as t h e s e l f t a n n i n g i n g r e d i e n t . The f o r m u l a t i o n c o n t a i n s no amines t o r e a c t w i t h D i h y d r o x y a c e t o n e and t h e f i n a l pH i s a d j u s t e d t o a p p r o x i m a t e l y 4, t o i n s u r e n a t u r a l c o l o r e d t a n d e v e l o p m e n t . The f o r m u l a t i o n a p p l i e s e a s i l y and e v e n l y . The f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t s h o u l d be s t o r e d away f r o m l i g h t and a t t e m p e r a t u r e c o n d i t i o n s below 40C t o p r e v e n t DHA f r o m d e g r a d i n g . ?&&
D e i o n i z e d Water 62.18 M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d M) 0.20 2 , 4 - D i c h l o r o b e n z y l A l c o h o l ( M y a c i d e SP) 0.20 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP 3.00 1 .oo Glycerin C i t r i c A c i d USP-FCC (Anhydrous F i n e G r a n u l a r ) 0.24 Sodium C i t r a t e USP-FCC 0.28 B. H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( C e l l o s i ze PP-15,OOOH) 0.20 C . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 2.00 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 56 ) 4 . 0 0 S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e ( A r l ace1 60) 0.60 2.00 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ( L e x o l PO-865 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e x o l GT-865) 3.00 O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( L e x o l EHS) 1 .oo P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d P) 0.10 D. Dihydroxyacetone 5.00 D e i o n i zed Water 15.00 Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A" h e a t i n g t o 75-8OC. Use a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r for agitation. 2 . S p r i n k l e s e c t i o n " 8 " i n t o s e c t i o n " A " . I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed t o c r e a t e a v o r t e x d u r i n g a d d i t i o n , then slow t o h i g h e s t speed w h i c h does n o t p r o d u c e a v o r t e x . 3. Combine s e c t i o n " C " . Heat t o 80-85C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s s l o w m i x i ng. 4 . When s e c t i o n s "AB" and "Cot a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g n a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s add s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t i o n s "AB". I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed t o a h i g h speed. B e g i n c o o l i n g . Slow m i x i n g speed t o h i g h e s t speed p o s s i b l e t h a t w i l l n o t cause v o r t e x i n g . 5 . U s i n g g l o v e s , combine s e c t i o n "D" and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . 6 . Add s e c t i o n "D" t o s e c t i o n s "ABC" a t 35-4013. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g . 7 . A t 30-35C a d j u s t f o r w a t e r l o s s . 8 . M i x b a t c h u n t i l i t r e a c h e s room t e m p e r a t u r e . 9. A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 4.00-4.10 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d o r Sodium C i t r a t e s o l u t i o n s , as r e q u i r e d .
A.
Physical Properties: V i s c o s i t y : 1,700 cPs @ 24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, pH: 1.0 @ 24C
SOURCE:
I n o l e x Chemical Co.:
TA @ 10 rpm)
F o r m u l a t i o n 398-101-1
386
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cooling After Sun Lotion Ingredients: Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 M e t h y l G l u c o s e D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care 450) 2.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) 6.5 Mineral O i l 5.7 Phase 8: G1 y c e r i n 3.0 Water 71.4 Phase C: Mineral O i l 0.8 Carbomer 941 0.2 Ethanol 10.0 Phase D : Sodium H y d r o x i d e (10% s o l u t i o n ) 0.4 Phase E : Fragrance Q.S. Preservatives Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o 80C. 2 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o 80C. 3 . Add A t o 0 o r €3 t o A w i t h o u t s t i r r i n g . 4. S t i r . 5 . D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r add t o A / B . Homogenize 6 . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . 7 . Add E t h a n o l . 8 . Add phase D / E . S t i r . 9 . Mix u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i s c o r r e c t .
w
Suntan Lotion Ingredients: Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 M e t h y l G l u c o s e D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care 450) 2.0 Decyl O l e a t e ( T e g o s o f t DO) 6.5 5.7 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) 7.0 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate Oxybenzone 3.0 Phase 8: Glycerin 3.0 Water 71 . 4 Phase C : Isopropyl Palmitate (Tegosoft P) 0.8 0.2 Carbomer 941 Phase D : Sodi urn H y d r o x i de ( 1 0% s o l u t i on) 0.4 Phase E: Q.S. Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i ves Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o 80C. 2 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o 80C. 3 . Add A t o B o r B t o A w i t h o u t s t i r r i n g . 4 . S t i r . 5 . D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r add t o A / B . Homogenize. 6 . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . 7 . Add Phase D / E . S t i r . 8 . M i x u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i s c o r r e c t .
w
SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products
387
Daily UV Protection Lotion (Approximate SPF 18) D e r m a c r y l LT p r o v i d e s i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e p r o t e c t i o n , r u b - o f f r e s i s t a n c e and w a t e r r e s i s t a n c e as w e l l as i m p r o v e d r u b - i n properties I
Innredients: Phase A : Neo H e l i o p a n AV B r i j 76 Cerasynt Q Cetyl Alcoho Emersol 132 T i o v e i l FIN F i n s o l v TN DC 334 F l u i d DC 556 F l u i d A b i l 88852 Phase 0: D e i o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (99%) D e r m a c r y l LT Neo H e l i o p a n Hydro C a r b o p o l 940 (2% Aq. S o l n . )
7.50 1-00 1 .so 1 .oo 1.50 1.70
5.00 3.00 1 .oo
0.50 40.30 4.00 1 .oo 4.00
20.00
Phase C: Propylene Glycol D r y - F l o PC
3.00 3.00
Phase D: Germaben I I E
1 .oo
Procedure: Phase B: Combine T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% and D e i o n i z e d W a t e r , h e a t t o 60C. S l o w l y s i f t i n D e r m a c r y l LT, h e a t t o 80C. When c o m p l e t e , s i f t i n Neo H e l i o p a n H y d r o and Carbopol 940, m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e . Phase A : Combine and h e a t t o 80C. Add Phase A t o Phase 0 a t 80C, m i x f o r 15-30 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 40C. S l u r r y D r y - F l o PC i n P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l , add t o A and B a t 40C and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add Phase D . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and package. SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co. : Formula 7520-1490
388
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
European O/W Sun Protection Cream Inaredients: A Mineral o i l Isohexadecane O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n i mate Cyclomethicone Arlamol E Behenyl a l c o h o l Tocophe r o 1 A c e t a t e B
10.00 5.00 5.00 2.80 1.20 2.00 5.50 5.50 4.00
A r l a t o n e 2121 Glycerol *Preservative Water
C
Xanthan gum
D
*Perfume
62.85
0.10
* q . s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s
I
Procedure: M e l t A r l a t o n e 2121 and add t o r e m a i n d e r o f (B) a t 8OC. D i s p e r s e ( C ) and ( B ) a t 75C w i t h m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g . Add h e a t e d ( A ) , ( E ) , and (F) t o m i x t u r e w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . Homogeni z e m i x t u r e between 75C and 65C and c o o l t o 40C w i t h m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g . Homogenize a t 30C t o 40C w i t h a d d i t i o n o f ( D ) .
O/W Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream Inaredients: O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA Benzo~henone-3 Mineral o i l Stearyl alcohol B r i j 721 B r i j 72 Dimethicone Water Carbomer 940 Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W aqueous)
%w/w 7.00 3.00 5.00 0.50 2.00 2.00 0.50 79.60 0.20 0.20
* P r e s e r v a t i v e and F r a g r a n c e *q.s.
these ingredients.
Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n w a t e r and h e a t (B) t o 70C. Heat (A) t o 72C. and add (B) t o ( A ) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add ( C ) and i n c r e a s e speed o f t h e a g i t a t i o n as needed. Add ( D ) and r e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n . SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products
389
Lip Balm with Sunscreen-A Ingredients: Phase A : Petrolatum Cetyl Alcohol Beeswax Carnauba Wax P a r a f f in Ozokerite C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) S t e a r y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 Wax 9800) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) C e t e a r y l Octanoate (Tegosoft L i q u i d ) Mineral O i l
40.7 4.0 6.0 6.4 16.4 6.0 1. o 1. o 5.0 3.0 5.0
Phase 8 : O c t y l Methoxycinnamate Benzophenone-3
4.0 1.5
Phase C : Color Fragrance
Q.S. Q.S. Lip Balm with Sunscreen-B
Inaredients: Phase A : Petrolatum C e t y l A1 coho1 Beeswax Carnauba Wax P a r a f f in Ozokerite C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) S t e a r y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9800) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) C e t e a r y l Octanoate (Tegosoft L i q u i d ) Mineral O i l
w 44.5 6.0 14.0 2.0 8.0 3.0 0.5 0.5 8.0 3.0 5.0
Phase 8: O c t y l Methoxycinnamate Benzophenone-3
4.0 1.5
Phase C : Color Fragrance
Q.S. Q.S.
Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r u n t i l m e l t e d . B e g i n c o o l i n g . 2 . Add Phase B, m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 3 . Add c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e when b a t c h i s c o o l e d t o a creamy c o n s i s t e n c y . 4 . Mold SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
.
390
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Non-Chemical Sunscreen Lotion (approx. SPF 15) T h i s l o t i o n i n c o r p o r a t e s t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e as t h e s u n s c r e e n a g e n t . I t has a smooth f e e l upon a p p l i c a t i o n and r u b s i n e a s i l y w i t h o u t w h i t e n i n g . The Geahlene 750 adds t h i c k n e s s and may c o n t r i b u t e t o w a t e r r e s i s t a n c e and p r o d u c t s t a b i l i t y . I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: A D e i o n i z e d Water Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e / V e e g u m U l t r a Xanthan G u m / K e l t r o l Methylparaben T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA/Hamp-Ene 220 0 M i n e r a l O i l (and) H y d r o g e n a t e d B u t y l e n e / E t h y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer ( a n d ) H y d r o g e n a t e d E t h y l e n e / P r o p y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer//Geahlene 750 C12-15 A1 k y l B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v TN T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e / M i c r o n i z e d T i 0 2 LA-20 Phenoxyethanol/Emeressence 1160 S t e a r i c A c i d / E m e r s o l 132 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE/Lexemul T DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amphisol Propylparaben C Fragrance
Weiaht% 64.80
0.80 0.25 0.20 0.10 10.00 10.00 6.00 0.70 2.50 2.00 2.50 0.10 0.05
Procedure: D i s p e r s e Veegum U1 t r a in r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i zed w a t e r . M i x w e l l . Add K e l t r o l . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat t o 80C. Add remai n i ng p a r t A in g r e d i e n t s , Homogeni ze F i n s o l v TN and M i c r o n i z e d T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e u n t i l smooth. Add r e m a i n i n g p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat t o 80-85C. M i x u n t i l a l l t h e added s o l i d s a r e c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s . u n t i l homogeneous. Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t C . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 30C.
SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Sun Care Products
391
O/W After Sun Milk
Inqredients: &J% A A r l a m o l S7 10.00 A r l a m o l HD 8.00 B A r l a t o n e 2 21 2.00 Alpantha 0.50 2.50 Glycerol * P r e s e r v a t ve C Water 76.78 C a r b o p o l EDT 0.07 D *NaOH (10% s o l u t i o n ) E Perfume 0.15 *q.s. these ingredients. Procedure: D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l i n w a t e r w h i l e s t i r r i n g . H e a t t o 80C. M i x t h e A r l a t o n e 2121 i n t o t h e h e a t e d (C) phase w h i l e s t i r r i n g mode r a t e l y . Homogenise t h i s m i x t u r e u n t i l a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n f o r m e d . Heat (A) t o 80C and add t o (B+C) w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e between 75 and 6%. A l l o w t o c o o l down t o 50C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add ( D ) u n t i l pH o f 6 . 5 t o 7 i s r e a c h e d . Add ( E ) a t 40C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . W/O After
Sun Cream
m
Inrrredi ents: 2.50 A r l a c e l 582 0.50 Arlatone T 0.50 Magnesium s t e a r a t e 1.50 Beeswax 0.50 Candel i 11 a wax 15.00 A r l a m o l HD 3.00 S u n f l o w e r seed o i l 1.oo a-Tocopherol a c e t a t e 0.50 T e g i l o x a n 100 0.05 Oxynex K l i q u i d 0.30 A e r o s i l R972 4.00 A t l a s G-2330 0.50 MgS04.7H20 0.50 Alpantha *Preservative 69 45 Water 0.20 Perfume D i n a l y a 1 2 9 . 0 5 1 *q.s. these ingredients. Procedure: M i x (A and 6 ) . M i x (C+D). Heat (A+B) and (C+D) s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C. Add (C+D) t o (A+B) w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Homogeni s e f o r 1 m i n u t e . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add ( E ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Homogenise a g a i n f o r 1 m i n u t e . Package. I
SOURCE: IC1
S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
392
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Cream (SPF 5) [UVA/UVB Ratio 0.9] Phase A: ?$y& 5.00 G1 y c e r i ne 1.50 Glucamate SSE-20 1.50 G l u c a t e SS G l y c e r y l Monostearate 5.00 5.00 M y r i t o l 318 S p e c t r a v e i l TG (60% s o l i d s d i s p e r s i o n ) 10.00 Phase 0: Veegum R e g u l a r 1.50 K e l zan 0.30 M e t h y l Paraben 0.15 69.60 Demi n e r a l is e d w a t e r Phase C : Germall I 1 0.25 Perfume 0.20 Manufacture: Heat b o t h phases t o 65-70C m i x i n g w i t h h i g h shear m i x e r . Add phase A t o phase B w i t h m i x i n g . S t i r on t h e h i g h s h e a r m i x e r a l l o w i n g p r o d u c t t o c o o l . When b e l o w 60C add t h e G e r m a l l 11. When b e l o w 40C add t h e A t 35C s t o p s t i r r i n g and a l l o w t o c o o l . perfume I n - V i t r o SPF V a l u e : 4-6 I n - V i v o SPF V a l u e : 5 . 9 F o r m u l a t i o n Number 22 W/O Sun Protection Cream (SPF 15+) [UVA/UVB Ratio 0.75] Phase A : %Jyfy DC200/100cs 2.00 E l f a c o s C26 5.00 E l f a c o s E200 2.00 E l f a c o s ST9 4.00 Cocoa B u t t e r 3.00 P r o p y l Paraben 0.08 S p e c t r a v e i 1 SO/MOTG (40% s o l i d s d i s p e r s i on) 25.00 Phase 0 : Propylene Glycol 5.00 M e t h y l Paraben 0.10 Demi n e r a l ised w a t e r 53.82 Manufacture: I n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l weigh o u t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase A ( e x c e p t t h e E l f a c o s C26). B r i n g t h e t e m p e r a t u r e o f t h e o i l s s l o w l y t o 75C w i t h o c c a s i o n a l s t i r r i n g . The E l f a c o s C26 c o n s t i t u t e n t i s warmed t o 85C and added s e p a r a t e l y . P r e - m i x t h e P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l and M e t h y l Paraben. Add t o t h e w a t e r , s t i r r i n g w e l l and h e a t t o 7%. When b o t h phases a r e c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d and a t 75-80C, add phase 6 t o phase A w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h a h i g h shear m i x e r . M i x f o r f i v e m i n u t e s and t h e n commence c o o l i n g . Cool t o a p p r o x i m a t e l y 25C w i t h s l o w speed m i x i n g . M i x b r i e f l y a t h i g h speed u n t i l smooth. I n - V i t r o SPF V a l u e : 17-21 I n - V i v o SPF V a l u e : 2 0 . 5 F o r m u l a t i o n Number 24 SOURCE: T i o x i d e S p e c i a l t i e s L t d . : SPECTRAVEIL Custom UV Protection
* * * *
*
*
*
* *
*
Sun Care Products
393
O/W Hydroalcoholic Sunscreen Innredients: ?&v& Phase A : G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) C e t e t h - 2 0 ( T e g i n a c i d H) 4.0 C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) 2.0 Stearyl Alcohol 2.0 3.5 Mineral O i l 5.0 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l 6 8839) S t e a r o x y D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 2434) 1.5 5.0 Isopropyl Stearate (Tegosoft S) O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 4.0 Benzophenone-3 2.0 Phase B: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 3.0 0.3 Carbomer 934 ( 1 . 5 % - NaOH N e u t r a l i z e d ) Water 45.7 Q.S. Preservatives Phase C : SD A l c o h o l 40A 20.0 Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . Heat t o 80C. 2 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B. Heat t o 80C. 3 . M i x Phases A & 8. Cool t o 60C w h i l e m i x i n g . M a i n t a i n a m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s . Homogenize. 4 . Cool t o 45C w i t h sweep m i x . 5 . Add Phase C . Rehomogenize. Cool t o 25C w i t h sweep m i x . W/O Sunscreen (SPF 17) %w/w Innredients: Phase A : C e t y l D i m e t h i cone Copol yo1 ( a n d ) Pol y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 4.0 2.0 C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 Wax 9801) P o l y e t h y l e n e Wax 1.o Benzophenone-3 2.0 O c t y l Sal i c y 1 a t e 3.0 2.0 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate Sesame O i l 1.o I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) 3.0 4.0 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l B 8839) O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosoft OS) 3.0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 2.5 Phase B : Water 71 . 4 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.5 Polyquaternium-10 0.3 0.3 Germaben I 1 Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C t o i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w energy m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s . 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4. Homogenize SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : F o r m u l a t i o n s BAM-1-97
394
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream
w
I n a r e d ie n t s : A O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA Mineral o i l Stearyl alcohol B r i j 721 B r i j 72 D i m e t h i cone Water
5.00 5.00 0.50 2.00 2.00
0.50 84.60 0.20
B
Carbomer 940
C
Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W
D
* P r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e *q.s.
0.20
aqueous)
these ingredients
Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n w a t e r and h e a t ( B ) t o 70C. Heat ( A ) t o 72C. and add (B) t o (A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add (C) and i n c r e a s e speed o f t h e a g i t a t i o n as needed. Add (D) and r e p l a c e water l o s t by evaporation.
W/O Sunscreen Cream
w 3.00
I n a r e d ients: A A r l a c e l 186 Sorbo
27.00
C e r e s i n wax Beeswax Mineral o i l Sunscreen a g e n t
1.oo 1 .oo 11 .oo
C
Water
51 . O O
D
*Preservative
B
*q.s.
6.00
these ingredients.
Procedure: Add Sorbo t o A r l a c e l 186 s l o w l y w i t h Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and h e a t t o 70C. Add ( C ) d i s p e r s i o n . Heat (D) t o 72C. and add t o Cool and m i l l t o i m p r o v e smoothness and
SOURCE:
IC1
Surfactants:
continuous a g i t a t i o n . and m i x t o a u n i f o r m (A,B,C) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . shelf l i f e .
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products
395
O/W Sunscreen Lotion
Wt.% 1 . A - C P o l y e t h y l e n e 61 7 2 . A-C Copolymer 540 3. E s c a l o l 5 0 7 4 . Dow 556 F l u i d 5 . Propylene G l y c o l D i p e l argonate 6 . Hydroxy01 7 . E t h o x y o l 24 8 . A r l a c e l 60 9 . Tween 60 10. Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
11.Sorbitol 12.Carbopol 941 1 3 . G e r m a l l 115
1. o 1. o
5.0
2.0 10.5 2.0 1. o 1.3 1. 8 0.1
5.0
14.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
0.5 0.4 0.2 0.75 68.45
1 5 . T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 1 6 . Water Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbopol i n w a t e r . Weigh 1-10 and h e a t t o 80-9OC w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s t o C a r b o p o l / w a t e r d i s p e r s i o n , e x c e p t t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , and h e a t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e wax phase t o t h e aqueous phase and s h e a r i n homomixer. C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C, t h e n add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , m i x i n g w e l l . Cool t o 30C, add perfume, d e a e r a t e and package. R e f : 51 89-2-6 O/W Sunscreen Lotion 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
Copolymer 580 D i s t i l l e d Isopropyl Lanolate Escalol 507 Dow 556 F l u i d Propylene Glycol D i p e l argonate E t h o x y o l 24 A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60
A-C
Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
10. S o r b i t o 1 (70%) 11 . C a r b i t o 1 941 12 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e
Wt.36 2.0 3.0 5.0 2.0 10.0 1.o 1. o 2.0 0.1
5.0 0.5 0.75
0.2 1 4 . Water 67.45 Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbopol i n w a t e r . Weigh 1-9 and h e a t t o 80-9OC w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s t o C a r b o p o l / w a t e r d i s p e r s i o n , e x c e p t t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , and h e a t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e w a t e r phase t o t h e aqueous phase and s h e a r i n homomixer. C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C, t h e n add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , m i x i n g w e l l . Cool t o 30C, add perfume, d e - a e r a t e and package. R e f : 51 89-2-9
13.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l Inc. Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
396
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Sunscreen Lotion InQredients: @ % J A Mineral o i l 24.50 1.50 A r l a c e l 60 8.50 Tween 60 2.00 B e n z y l s a l ic y 1 a t e B e n z y l c i nnamate 2.00 61.50 B Water *Preservative * q . s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s . Procedure: Heat (A) t o 60C. Heat ( B ) t o 62C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h t h o r o u g h b u t g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Cool t o 25C w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . O/W Sunscreen Lotion
%& y ! Inqredients: 18.80 A Mineral o i l 5.00 C e t y l a1 coho1 2.50 A r l a c e l 60 7.50 Tween 60 1.20 Amyl p a r a - d i m e t h y l a m i n o b e n z o a t e B Water 65.00 *Preservative * q . s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s . Procedure: Heat (A) t o 55C. and (B) t o 60C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h a g i t ation. S t i r u n t i l cool. O/W Emollient Sunscreen Lotion
Inaredients: ?&!y A O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA 5.00 7.00 Arlamol E 2.50 Stearyl alcohol 1 .oo Dimethicone 3.10 A r l a s o l ve 200 3.90 B r i j 72 77.10 B Water 0.20 Carbomer 934 0.20 C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W aqueous) D * P r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e * q . s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s . Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n w a t e r and h e a t ( 8 ) t o 70C. Heat (A) t o 72C. and add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add (C) and i n c r e a s e speed of t h e a g i t a t i o n as needed. Add ( D ) and r e p l a c e water l o s t by evaporation. SOURCE:
I C 1 Surfactants:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products
397
O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 12)
Phase A : A r l a c e l 165 Stearyl Alcohol Span 60 Tween 60 Petrolatum DC200/350 Sweet Almond O i 1 Mineral O i l Eveni ng P r i m r o s e O i 1
5.00 0.50 0.50 0.90 3.00 1.00 5.00 8.00 0.50
Phase B : Dei o n i zed w a t e r Sorbic Acid G1 y c e r i ne T i o v e i l AQ Keltrol
56.76 0.20 5.00 12.50 0.10
Phase C : D e i o n i sed w a t e r Bronopol
1 .oo 0.04
Manufacture: Heat t h e d e i o n i s e d w a t e r , s o r b i c a c i d and g l y c e r i n e t o 75C, s t i r r i n g o c c a s i o n a l l y u n t i l a l l t h e s o r b i c a c i d has d i s s o l v e d . S p r i n k l e i n t h e K e l t r o l and homogenise u n t i l t h i s i s f u l l y dispersed. ( o r : paddle s t i r f o r 1 hour t o hydrate t h e Kel t r o l ) . M a i n t a i n t e m e r a t u r e a t 75C. Add t h e - T i o v e i l AQ and' homogenise b r i e f l y . Heat phase A t o 75C. Add A t o B and homogenise f o r a p p r o p r i a t e t i m e . P a d d l e s t i r t o cool. Add phase C a t 40C. C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g w i t h s t i r r ng t o 25C.
* * * * * *
I n - V i t r o SPF V a l u e :
12-15
SOURCE: T i o x i d e S p e c i a l t i e s L t d . : TIOVEIL P h y s i c a
Sunscreen
398
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15) Phase 4: DC 593 f l u i d 7.00 Mineral o i l 6.00 Crodamol ML 2.00 2.00 C e t y l a1 coho1 GMS/SE 1.20 E u m u l g i n 82 0.40 1-00 Stearic acid Propylparaben 0.05 Phase B : Dei o n i sed w a t e r 58.45 1.oo G1 y c e r ine Triethanolamine 1-00 Alo e v e r a g e l 1O:l 0.50 Methylparaben 0.15 18.75 T i o v e i 1 AQ Perfume 0.20 G e r m a l l 115 0.30 Manufacture: Heat phases A and B s e p a r a t e l y t o 70-75C. Add phase A t o phase 0 and homogenize f o r a p p r o p r i a t e t i m e . Cool down t o 50C w i t h s l o w s t i r r i n g , t h e n add p e r f u m e C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add G e r m a l l a t 35C. S t o p s t i r r i n g a t 30C. I n - V i v o SPF V a l u e : 1 7 . 6 I n - V i t r o SPF V a l u e : 17-21 V i s c o s i t y : 60000 mPas ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, S p i n d l e E, 3 rpm) F o r m u l a t i o n Number 9
w
*
* * *
O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 10) Phase A : %w/w Isopropyl myri s t a t e 4.00 6.50 Mineral o i l Grape seed o i l 2.50 Stearyl alcohol 1 .oo Petrolatum 2.00 T i o v e i l MOTG 5.00 Phase B : D e i o n i sed w a t e r 62.90 G r i 11o t e n LSE87K 0.10 G r i l l o t e n PSE141G 6.00 G1y c e r i n e 4.00 A1 1a n t o i n 0.20 d-Panthenol 0.80 Phase C : T i o v e i l AQ 5.00 Phase D: qs P r e s e r v a t iv e Manufacture: Heat A and B s e p a r a t e l y t o 80C. Add A t o 8, s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Add C w i t h i n t e n s i v e s t i r r i n g . Homogenize A l l o w t o c o o l f o r 25C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Add D . I n - V i t r o SPF V a l u e : 12-15 V i s c o s i t y : 144 mPas ( B r o o k f i e l d ) F o r m u l a t i o n Number 18 SOURCE: T i o x i d e S p e c i a l t i e s L t d , : T I O V E I L P h y s i c a l Sunscreens
* *
*
*
Sun Care Products
399
O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15)
Phase A : %w/w Octyl Palmitate 5.00 Crodamol CA P 5.00 0c200/100cs 3.00 Oxynex 2004 0.05 W h i t e Beeswax 3.50 Phase B : A r l a t o n e 2121 5.50 K e l t r o l RD 0.20 Veeaum U l t r a 0.80 0.30 Sodium L a c t a t e ( 7 0 % s o l n . ) Demi n e r a l i sed w a t e r 61 - 6 5 T i o v e i l AQ 15.00 qs P r e s e r v a t iv e s Manufacture: M i x w a t e r and sodium l a c t a t e and h e a t t o 80C M e l t A r l a t o n e 2 1 2 1 and add t h i s t o t h e h o t w a t e r phase w i t h vigorous s t i r r i n g D i s p e r s e K e l t r o l and Veegum i n t h e h o t w a t e r phase Add T i o v e i l AO w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g Heat phase A t o 75-80C, u n t i l f u l l y m e l t e d and homogeneous. Heat phase A t o phase B w i t h h i g h - s h e a r m i x i n g . Cool w i t h m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g t o 3OC.Homogenize b r i e f l y when c o l d I n - V i t r o SPF V a l u e : 15-19 V i s c o s i t y : 49680 mPas Formul a t i on Number 19
* *
*
* * * *
W/O Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 20) % V J & Phase A : A b i l EM90 2.00 5.00 Mineral o i l A r l a m o l HD 5.00 Caprylic-capric Triglyceride 5.00 Octyl Palmitate 8.00 5.00 A r l a m o l 53 Naturechem GMHS 0.80 Lunacera M 1.20 Phase B : Demi n e r a l ised w a t e r 47.50 Sodi um C h l o r i d e 0.50 qs Preservative Phase C : T i o v e i l MOTG 20.00 Manufacture: Heat phases A and B s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C Heat phase C t o >60C S l o w l y add B t o A w i t h i n t e n s i v e s t i r r i n g Add C w i t h i n t e n Cool t o 25-30'2, m a i n t a i n i n g t h e same s t i r r e r sive stirring speed Homogenize I n - V i t r o SPF V a l u e : 20-24 V i s c o s i t y : 2000 mPas ( B r o o k f i e l d ) F o r m u l a t i o n Number 20
*
*
*
*
*
SOURCE: T i o x i d e S p e c i a l t i e s L t d . :
*
TIOVEIL P h y s i c a l Sunscreens
400
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Vitaminized Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Lotion (Indicative SPF 8)*
Inaredients: A) P a r s o l MCX P a r s o l 1789 P a r s o l 5000 G l y c e r y l Monomyri s t a t e Ganex V-220 Cetyl Alcohol Extra Dermol 185 Amphisol K E d e t a BD Butylated Hydroxytoluene Phenoni p B) D e i o n i z e d Water C a r b o p o l 981 1% s o l ' n Propylene Glycol C) KOH 10% sol ' n D ) D e i o n i z e d Water P a r s o l HS KOH 10% s o l ' n E) Vitamin E Acetate F) Panthenol G) P a r f e x 49915
% w/w
2.00 1.oo 0.60 4.00 2.00 1.00 10.00 2.00 0.10 0.05 0.60 34.93 10.00 5.00 0.64
20.00 0.60 1.08 2.00 2.00 0.40**
Procedure: Heat p a r t A) t o 85C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . When homogeneous, add p a r t s B ) and C) p r e - h e a t e d t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g . Add p a r t D) p r e - h e a t e d t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g ( b e s u r e t h a t t h e P a r s o l HS has been c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , i f t r a c e s r e m a i n , add a s m a l l q u a n t i t y o f n e u t r a l i z i n g base u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r ) . Cool t o 40C, add p a r t s E ) , F ) and G ) . Compensate f o r w a t e r l o s s and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e . Remark: *SPF d e t e r m i n a t i o n : I R I R e f . 582627. T e s t method based on FDA/OTC c o n d i t i o n s w i t h s i x s u b j e c t s . * * D e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d perfume f o r sunscreens. The f i n a l pH v a l u e s h o u l d b e a r o u n d 7 . 0 t o p r e v e n t r e c r y s t a l l i z a t i o n o f P a r s o l HS
SOURCE: Givaudan-Roure:
F o r m u l a t i o n 38 COS 085
Sun Care Products
401
O/W Vitaminized Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Lotion (Indicative SPF 25+)*
Inaredients: A) P a r s o l MCX P a r s o l 1789 P a r s o l 5000 G l y c e r y l Monomyri s t a t e Ganex V-220 Cetyl Alcohol E x t r a Dermol 185 Amphisol K E d e t a BD Butylated Hydroxytoluene Phenoni p B ) D e i o n i z e d Water C a r b o p o l 981 1% s o l ' n P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l C) KOH 10% s o l ' n D ) D e i o n i z e d Water P a r s o l HS KOH 10% s o l I n E) Vitamin E Acetate F) P a n t h e n o l G) P e r f e x 49915
5.50 2.50 2.00 4.00 2.00 1.oo 10.00 2.00 0.10 0.05 0.60 24.61 10.00 5.00 0.64 20.00 2.00 3.60 2.00 2.00
0.40**
Procedure: Heat D a r t A ) t o 85C w h i l e s t i r r i n a When homoneneous, add p a r t s B) and C ) p r e - h e a t e d t o 756, w h i l e m i x i n g . Add p a r t D ) p r e - h e a t e d t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g ( b e s u r e t h a t t h e P a r s o l HS has been c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , i f t r a c e s r e m a i n , add a s m a l l q u a n t i t y o f t h e n e u t r a l i z i n g base u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r ) . Cool t o 40C, add P a r t s E ) , F ) , and G). Compensate f o r w a t e r l o s s and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o a m b i e n t temperature. Remark : *SPF d e t e r m i n a t i o n : I R I R e f . 582627. T e s t method based on FDA/OTC c o n d i t i o n s w i t h f i v e s u b j e c t s . * * D e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d perfume f o r sunscreens. The f i n a l pH v a l u e s h o u l d b e a r o u n d 7 . 0 t o p r e v e n t r e c r y s t a l l i z a t i o n o f Parsol HS. SOURCE: Givaudan-Roure:
F o r m u l a 38 COS 087
402
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Vitaminized Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Lotion (Indicative SPF 15)* Ingredients: A ) P a r s o l MCX P a r s o l 1789 P a r s o l 5000 G l y c e r y l Monomyristate Ganex V-220 Cetyl Alcohol E x t r a Dermol 185 Amphisol K E d e t a BD Butylated Hydroxytoluene Phenoni p Dei o n i zed Water C a r b o p o l 981 1% s o l ' n P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l KOH 10% s o l ' n Dei o n i zed Water P a r s o l HS KOH 10% sol'n Vitamin E Acetate Panthenol P a r f e x 49915
3.30 1 .50 1.20 4.00 2.00 1 .oo 10.00 2.00 0.10 0.05 0.60 30.86 10.00 5.00 0.64 20.00 1.20 2.15 2.00 2.00
0.40**
Procedure: Heat p a r t A ) t o 85C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . When homogeneous, add p a r t s B) and C ) p r e - h e a t e d t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g . Add p a r t D) p r e - h e a t e d t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g ( b e s u r e t h a t t h e P a r s o l HS has been c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , i f t r a c e s r e m a i n , add a s m a l l q u a n t i t y o f t h e n e u t r a l i z i n g base u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r ) . Cool t o 40C, add p a r t s E ) , F ) and G ) . Compensate for w a t e r loss and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e . Remark: *SPF d e t e r m i n a t i o n : I R I R e f . 582627. T e s t method based on FDA/OTC c o n d i t i o n s w i t h s i x s u b j e c t s . * * D e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d perfume f o r sunscreens. The f i n a l pH v a l u e s h o u l d be a r o u n d 7 . 0 t o p r e v e n t r e c r y s t a l l i z a t i o n o f P a r s o l HS. SOURCE: Givaudan-Roure:
F o r m u l a t i o n 38 COS 086
Sun Care Products
403
Solar Tanning Cream P a r t 0v W e i s h t Soft 427.9 3.0
Water Phase: Water Carbomer 934 O i l Phase: P r o t o x T-25 Rosswax 573 GMS SE Coconut O i l #76 J o j o b a Oi 1 Rosswax 1824 E s c a l o l 507 Fragrance Germaben I 1 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne
1.o 4.0 4.0 16.0 4.0 12.0 25.0 q.S.
5.0 4.4
Procedure: D i s p e r s e t h e Carbomer 934 i n t h e w a t e r . I n a second v e s s e l h e a t t h e O i l Phase i n c l u d i n g t h e E s c a l o l 507 u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y c l e a r . When b o t h phases a r e r e a d y add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Water Phase, add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e , f r a g r a n c e and add t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e u n d e r h i g h a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y m i x e d you may package. Solar Tanning Cream Water Phase: Water Carbomer 934 O i l Phase: P r o t o x T-25 Rosswax 573 GMS SE Coconut O i l #76 Jojoba O i l Rosswax 1824 E s c a l o l 507 Fragrance Germaben I 1 Triethanolamine
P a r t s b y Weiaht Hard 410.0 3.0 1.o 4.0 4.0 16.0 4.0 12.0 25.0 q.s. 4.8 4.4
Procedure: D i s p e r s e t h e Carbomer 934 i n t h e w a t e r . I n a second v e s s e l h e a t t h e O i l Phase i n c l u d i n g t h e E s c a l o l 507 u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y c l e a r . When b o t h phases a r e r e a d y add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Water Phase, add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e , F r a g r a n c e and add t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e u n d e r h i g h a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y m i x e d you may package. SOURCE: F r a n k 0 . Ross Co,, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
404
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Solar Tanning Cream High Protection
Part (A) : Water Carbomer 934
!?i
79.9 0.6
Part (B): P r o t o x T 25 Rosswax 573 Rosswax 1824 Ross J o j o b a O i 1 GMS-SE Coconut O i l #76 E s c a l o l 507 E s c a l o l 567
0.2 0.8 2.0 0.8 0.8 3.0 7.0 3.0
Part (C) : Germaben I 1
1.o
P a r t (0): Fragrance
4,s.
Part (E): 0.9
T r i e t h a n o l ami ne
Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e and add t h e Carbomer 934 u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . Heat P a r t ( B ) i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e u n t 1 c l e a r u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y m i x e d add P a r t ( 8 ) t o Par ( A ) u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . Then add P a r t ( C ) and m i x thoroughly N e x t add P a r t ( D ) and f i n a l l y add P a r t ( E ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 120F and package. Tanning Jelly
3
49.0 20.0 23.9 2.0 5.0 0.1 q.s.
P e t r o l a t u m USP M i n e r a l O i l #7 Henkel C u t i na-LM Ross J o j o b a O i 1 E s c a l o l 507 P r o p y l Paraben Fragrance
Procedure: Load i n g r e d i e n t s i n steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e and m e l t t o a l i q u i d s t a t e u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . When t h o r o u g h l y mixed, c o o l t o 130F, f r a g r a n c e and package. SOURCE:
F r a n k 8 . R o s s Co.,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products
405
Solar Tanning Cream Super Protection Part (A): Water Carbomer 934 P a r t (B) : P r o t o x T 25 Rosswax 573 Rosswax 1824 Ross J o j o b a O i 1 GMS-SE Coconut O i l #76 E s c a l o l 507 E s c a l o l 567 E s c a l o l 557 P a r t (C): Germaben I 1 Part (D): Fragrance P a r t (E): Triethanolamine
% 69.1 0.6 0.2 0.8 2.0 1.o 0.8 3.2 8.0 4.5 7.5
1
.o
q.s.
0.9
Procedure: Heat t h e waxes i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e and add t h e Carbomer 934 under a g i t a t i o n . Heat P a r t ( B ) i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e u n t i l c l e a r u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y m i x e d add P a r t ( B ) t o P a r t ( A ) u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . Then add P a r t ( C ) and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . N e x t add P a r t (D) and f i n a l l y add P a r t ( E ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 120F and package.
Jojoba After Sun Lotion Part A: M i n e r a l O i l 60/70 Modul an Rosswax 63-0412 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Ross J o j o b a O i 1 Part 8 : Water A l o e Vera L i q u i d Triethanolamine Fragrance Germaben I 1
36 8.5 5.0 7.6 2.3 1.7 69.7 3.3 1.2 q.s.
1.o
Procedure: M e l t P a r t ( A ) and P a r t ( B ) i n s e p a r a t e v e s s e l s t o 170F u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . When t e m p e r a t u r e i s r e a c h e d , m i x P a r t ( A ) t o P a r t ( B ) and c o o l . Package i n c o n t a i n e r s a t b e l o w 120F.
SOURCE:
F r a n k 8 . Ross Co.,
Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
406
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Solar Tanning Lotion-A P a r t I: Water Carbomer 934
P a r t s b v Wei q h t 568.0 2.0
P a r t 11: Rosswax 573 GMS SE Jojoba O i l E s c a l o l 507
4.0 4.0 4.0 13.0
P a r t 111: Fragrance
4.s.
P a r t IV: Gerrnaben I 1
6.0
P a r t V: T r i e t h a n o l ami ne
4.0 Solar Tanning Lotion-B
P a r t I: Water Carborner 934
P a r t s b y Wei q h t 568.0 2.0
P a r t 11: Rosswax 573 GMS SE Jojoba O i l E s c a l o l 507
4.0
4.0 4.0 19.0
P a r t 111: Fragrance
q.s.
P a r t IV: Germaben I 1
6.0
P a r t V: T r i e t h a n o l ami ne
4.0
Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r w i t h a g i t a t i o n and add t h e Carborner 934. I n a s e p a r a t e steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t P a r t I 1 u n t i l c l e a r . As soon as e v e r y t h i n g i s m e l t e d add P a r t I 1 t o P a r t I w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Then add P a r t I 1 1 and P a r t I V w i t h i n c r e a s e d a g i t a t i o n ; t h e n add T r i t h a n o l ami ne. Cool t o 130F and package.
SOURCE:
F r a n k 8 . Ross
Co., I n c . : SUQQeSted F o r m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products
407
Solar Tanning Lotion-C Part I Water Carbomer 934
P a r t s b y Wei a h t 568.0 2.0
Part 11: Rosswax 573 GMS SE Jojoba O i l E s c a l o l 507
4.0 4.0 4.0 25.0
Part 111: Fragrance
q.s.
Part IV: Germaben I 1
6.0
Part
V:
T r i e t h a n o l ami ne
4.0 Solar Tanning Lotion-D
P a r t I: Water Carbomer 934
568.0
2.0
Part 11: Rosswax 573 GMS SE Jojoba O i l E s c a l o l 507
4.0 4.0 4.0 32.0
Part 111: Fragrance
q.s.
Part IV: Germaben I 1
6.0
P a r t V: Triethanolamine
4.0
Procedure: H e a t the w a t e r w i t h a g i t a t i o n and add t h e Carbomer 934. I n a s e p a r a t e steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t P a r t I 1 u n t i l c l e a r . A s soon as e v e r y t h i n g i s m e l t e d add P a r t I 1 t o P a r t I w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Then add P a r t I 1 1 and P a r t I V w i t h i n c r e a s e d a g i t a t i o n ; t h e n add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . Cool t o 130F and package. SOURCE:
Frank 8 . Ross C o . ,
Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
408
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Solar Tanning Lotion High Protection P a r t s by Wei q h t 517.0 2.0 3.6 3.6 42.0 18.0
Water Carbomer 934 Rosswax 573 Gms SE Jojoba O i l E s c a l o l 507 Germaben I 1
6.0
Fragrance
q.s.
T r i e t h a n o l ami ne
3.6
Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r w i t h a g i t a t i o n and add t h e Carbomer 934. I n a s e p a r a t e steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t t h e O i l Phase t i l l c l e a r w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Now add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Water Phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n , add t h e Germaben 1 1 , f r a g r a n c e and f i n a l l y add t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e w i t h h i g h a g i t a t i o n . N e x t c o o l t o 130F and package
.
Solar Tanning Lotion Super Protection Water Carbomer 934 Rosswax 2540 GMS-SE White Jojoba O i 1 E s c a l o l 507 E s c a l o l 567 E s c a l o l 557 Germaben I 1 Fragrance Triethanolamine
P a r t s by Weight 381.5 1.5 3.0 3.0 3.0 40.0 22.5 37.5 5.0 q.s
3.6
Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e w i t h a g i t a t i o n and add t h e Carbomer 934. I n a s e p a r a t e steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t t h e O i l Phase u n t i l c l e a r w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Now add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Water Phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n , t h e n t h e Germaben 1 1 , t h e n t h e F r a g r a n c e and f i n a l l y add t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e w i t h h i g h a g i t a t i o n . N e x t c o o l t o 130F and p a c k a g e .
SOURCE: F r a n k 8 , Ross C o . , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products
409
Solar Tanning Oil-A
%
Cocoanut O i l #76 Dow C o r n i n g #344 Isopropyl Myris t a t e M i n e r a l O i l #7 A c e t u l an Glucam P-20 Jojoba O i l E s c a l o l 507 Fragrance
15.0 16.0 13.0 42.0 8.0 2.0 2.0 2.0
Q.S.
Solar Tanning Oil-B
%
Cocoanut O i l #76 Dow C o r n i n g #344 Isopropyl Myristate M i n e r a l O i l #7 Acetulan Glucam P-20 Jojoba O i l E s c a l o l 507 Fragrance
14.0 16.0 13.0 42.0 8.0 2.0 2.0 3.0 9.s. Solar Tanning Oil-C
%
Cocoanut O i l #76 Dow C o r n i n g #344 Isopropyl Myris t a t e M i n e r a l O i l #7 A c e t u l an Glucam P-20 Jojoba O i l E s c a l o l 507 Fragrance
13.0 16.0 13.0 42.0 8.0 2.0 2.0 4.0
q.s
Solar Tanning Oil-D
%
Cocoanut O i l #76 Dow C o r n i n g #344 Isopropyl Myri s t a t e M i n e r a l O i l #7 Acetulan Glucam P-20 Jojoba O i l E s c a l o l 507 Fragrance
12.0 16.0 13.0 42.0 8.0 2.0 2.0 5.0
Q.S.
Procedure: M i x a l l o f t h e above i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l , r u n t h r u a f i l t e r and package. SOURCE:
F r a n k B. R o s s C o . ,
Inc.:
Sugoested F o r m u l a t i o n s
410
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Solar Tanning Stick White Color %
Rosswax 26-1 152 Rosswax 1641 Rosswax 1824 M i n e r a l O i l #7 Dow S i l i c o n e 344 Isopropyl Myri s t a t e Coconut O i l #76 A c e t u l an Glucam P-20 Jojoba O i l E s c a l o l 507
15.0 15.0 20.0 17.5 8.0 6.5 5.0 4.0 2.0 2.0
5.0
Fragrance Preservative
q.s. q.s.
Procedure: Load t h e waxes and t h e o i l s i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e , a g i t a t i o n u n t i l m e l t e d . Cool t o j u s t b e f o r e c l o u d y , add p r e s e r v a t i v e s . M o l d i n c o n t a i n e r s . ( N o t e : Capping may be necessary).
under
Solar Tanning Stick Tan Color Rosswax 26-1152 Rosswax 1824 M i n e r a l O i l #7 Dow S i l i c o n e 344 Isopropyl Myri s t a t e Coconut O i l #76 A c e t u 1an Glucam P-20 Jojoba O i l E s c a l o l 507 Fragrance Preservative
% 30.0 20.0 17.5 8.0 6.5 5.0 4.0 2.0 2.0 5.0 q.s. q.s.
Procedure: Heat t h e waxes and t h e o i l i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e t o 175F u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . When m i x e d f u l l y , c o o l t o j u s t b e f o r e c l o u d y , and add F r a g r a n c e and P r e s e r v a t i v e . M o l d i n c o n t a i n e r s . ( N o t e : Capping may be n e c e s s a r y ) .
SOURCE:
Frank
B. Ross Co., Inc.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products
411
Sun Block Soft Cream (O/W) Tested SPF 26 Inqredients: A A r l a c e l 165 Eumulgin B 2 Lanette 0 M y r i t o l 318 C e t i o l OE A b i l 100 Ben one Gel M I 0 Neo H e l i o p a n , Type OS Neo H e l i o p a n , Type AV Neo H e l i o p a n , Type E 1000 Neo H e l i o p a n , Type MBC c u t na CBS
%(w/w)
B
Dem n e r a l ized w a t e r Vee um u l t r a G l y c e r i n 86% Phenoni p Neo H e l i o p a n , Type Hydro; u s e d as a 15% s o l u t i o n n e u t r a l ized w i t h s o d i um h y d r o x i de (active: Z i n c O x i d e n e u t r a l H&R
C
Perfume o i l
3.00 1 .oo 2.00 4.00 3.00 1.oo 3.00 3.00 5.00 5.00 1.50 2.00 31 . 7 0 1.oo 3.00 0.50 20.00 3.00%) 10.00 n.30
M a n u f a c t u r i n g Process: P a r t A: Heat up t o 75C w i t h t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . P a r t B: Heat t h e w a t e r t o 9OC. D i s p e r s e t h e Veegurn i n t h e w a t e r d u r i n g h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . Then add t h e o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s and d i s p e r s e t h e Z i n c O x i d e n e u t r a l H&R i n t h e s o l u t i o n . P u t P a r t B t o P a r t A while s t i r r i n g . Part C: A t 30C add t h e p e r f u m e o i l t o P a r t A / B and homogenize t h e emu1 s i o n . The p H - v a l u e o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u l s i o n s h o u l d be a p p r o x . 7 . 5 and has t o be checked.
SOURCE: Haarman 81 Reimer: F o r m u l a t S o n K 18/2-21302/E
412
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sun Filter Foam A.
10.0 5.0 1.o 1.5 0.5 1. o 4.0 2.0 3.0
M i g l y o l 840 M i g l y o l 812 S o f t i s a n 649 S o f t i g e n 767 S o f t i g e n 701 C e t y l a1 coho1 Stearic acid Triethanolamine Neo H e l i o p a n E 1 0 0 0
9. Perfume Water
qs t o 100.0
Preparation: A l l components under A . a r e h e a t e d t o 70-75C. Water i s t h e n e m u l s i f i e d i n and perfume i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t 30C. A e r o s o l f i 11 in g : 90% A c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t 10% D r i v o s o l 27 After Sun Stick A.
B.
S o f t i g e n 767 Sodi um s t e a r a t e Glycerol Sugar D-Panthenol, 50% A1 1 a n t o i n Water Perfume E t h a n o l 96% Preservative
40.0 8.0 10.0 8.0
6.0 0.2 24.4 0.1 3.3
us
Preparation: The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e m e l t e d and d i s s o l v e d a t a p p r o x . 60C, t h e m i x i s s t i r r e d , 8 . b e i n g added a t a p p r o x . 40C, and when c o l d i t i s c a s t i n t o moulds.
SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s for C o s m e t i c s : Formulas
Sun Care Products
413
Sun Protection Lotion T h i s medium v i s c o s i t y l o t i o n u t i l i z e s a s y n e r g i s t i c Veegum/ R h o d i g e l b l e n d t o h e l p s t a b i l i z e t h e e m u l s i o n and m o d i f y t h e v i s c o s i t y . I n a d d i t i o n , t h i s f o r m u l a i n c o r p o r a t e s A-C 617G p o l y e t h y l e n e t o p r o v i d e a l u x u r i o u s a f t e r f e e l and i m p r o v e t h e w a t e r r e s i s t a n c e o f t h e sun p r o t e c t i o n f i l m . T h i s p r o d u c t i s d e s i g n e d t o have an SPF (Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r ) o f a b o u t 15. Innredi ent : Veegum Rhodi g e l Glycerin D e i o n i z e d Water
% bv W t .
1.oo 0.20 5.50 68.80
2.00 3 .OQ
A-C 61 7G P o l y e t h y l e n e G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e , SE ( 2 ) D i o c t y l Malate ( 3 ) Cetyl Alcohol Mineral O i l Steareth-2 (4) Steareth-20 (5) Benzophenone-3 ( 6 ) O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA ( 7 ) Preservative,
(2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7)
2.00 0.50 4.00 0.30 2.70 3.00 7.00
Fragrance
q.s.
Kessco G l y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e C e r a p h y l 45 B r i j 72 B r i j 78 E s c a l o l 567 E s c a l o l 507
S.E.
Preparation: Dry b l e n d Veegum and R h o d i g e l . Add Veegum/Rhodigel b l e n d t o w a t e r p r e h e a t e d t o 85-9OC. H y d r a t e u s i n g maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r u n t i l smooth, u n i f o r m and f r e e o f u n d i s p e r s e d p a r t i c l e s . Add g l y c e r i n and m a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 85-9OC. I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , add a l l B i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 85-9OC u n t i l a l l comp o n e n t s a r e i n a l i q u i d s t a t e . S t i r g e n t l y as n e c e s s a r y . S l o w l y add B t o A and homogenize f o r 5 m i n u t e s . Cool e m u l s i o n q u i c k l y t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Add C and m i x u n t i l uniform. Consistency: F l o w a b l e L i q u i d ; V i s c o s i t y measured a f t e r 30 days a t room t e m p e r a t u r e : 1500-1900 c p s . Suggested P a c k a g i n g : P l a s t i c b o t t l e s o r t u b e s . Comments : T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o s e r v e as a g u i d e f o r t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.
SOURCE: R.T, V a n d e r b i l t Co.,
I n c . : F o r m u l a No. 444
414
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sun Protection Lotion T h i s medium v i s c o s i t y l o t i o n u t i l i z e s a s y n e r g i s t i c Veegum/ R h o d i g e l b l e n d t o h e l p s t a b i l i z e t h e e m u l s i o n and m o d i f y t h e v i s c o s i t y . I t i s d e s i g n e d t o h a v e an SPF (Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r ) o f a b o u t 15. Inqredient: Veegum Rhodi g e l G lyceri n D e i o n i z e d Water
% bv W t .
1 .oo 0.20 5.50 70.80
G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e , SE ( 2 ) D i o c t y l Malate (3) Cetyl Alcohol Mineral O i l Steareth-2 (4) Steareth-20 (5) Benzophenone-3 ( 6 ) O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA ( 7 )
3.00 2.00 0.50 4.00 0.30 2.70 3.00 7.00
P r e s e r v a t i v e , Fragrance (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7)
Q.S.
Kessco G l y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e S . E . C e r a p h y l 45 B r i j 72 B r i j 78 E s c a l o l 567 E s c a l o l 507
Preparation: D r y b l e n d Veegum and R h o d i g e l . Add Veegum/Rhodigel b l e n d t o w a t e r p r e h e a t e d t o 75 t o 85C. H y d r a t e u s i n g maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r u n t i l smooth, u n i f o r m and f r e e o f u n d i s p e r s e d p a r t i c l e s . Add g l y c e r i n and m a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 75 t o 85C. I n a sepa r a t e c o n t a i n e r , add a l l B i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 75 t o 85C u n t i l a l l components a r e i n a l i q u i d s t a t e . S t i r g e n t l y as n e c e s s a r y . S l o w l y add B t o A and homogenize f o r 5 m i n u t e s . Cool e m u l s i o n t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Add C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . C o n s i s t e n c y : F l o w a b l e 1 i q u i d ; V i s c o s i t y measured a f t e r 30 days a t room t e m p e r a t u r e : 750 t o 1000 c p s Comments: T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o s e r v e as a g u i d e f o r t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.
SOURCE:
R U T . V a n d e r b i l t Co.,
Inc.:
Formula No. 446
Sun Care Products
415
Sunscreen with Amihope An e l e g a n t s u n s c r e e n o f a b o u t SPF-15 u s i ng m i c r o n i zed T i t a n i urn D i o x i d e . A m i hope LL p r o v i d e s improved s p r e a d a b i 1 it y and an e x c e l 1e n t a f t e r f e e l , I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: % by Weight 64.30 P a r t A : D e i o n i z e d Water Synthetic Hectorite 0.80 D i s o d i um EDTA 0.10 6.00 G1 y c e r in P a r t B : C12-15 A l k y l Benzoate 15.00 Titanium Dioxide 6.50 C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) Ceteareth-20 5.00 PEG-80 S o r b i t a n L a u r a t e 1.oo P a r t C : L a u r o y l Lysine/Amihope LL 1 .oo P a r t D: I s o p r o p y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) I s o b u t y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) B u t y l paraben 0.10 DMDM H y d a n t o i n ( a n d ) I o d o p r o p y n y l B u t y l c a r b a m a t e 0 . 2 0 D i s p e r s e t h e S y n t h e t i c H e c t o r i t e i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . Heat t o 8OC. Add r e m a i n i n g p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , homogeni ze t h e C12-15 A1 k y l Benzoate and T i t a n i um D i o x i d e u n t i 1 smooth. Add remai n i ng p a r t B in g r e d i e n t s . Heat t o 8OC. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . M i x a t 80C f o r 30 m i n u t e s u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Cool t o 70C. Add p a r t D . M i x w e l l . (Homogenize t o e n s u r e c o m p l e t e d i s p e r s i o n . ) Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t E . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 35C. Appearance: O f f - w h i t e , smooth, v i s c o u s cream pH: 7 . 2 0 - 7 . 8 0 V i s c o s i t y : 30,000-36,000 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d #6 @ l O r p m @ 25C) W/O SPF20 Sunscreen with Elder
I n a r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: Part A: S t e a r i c A c i d T r i p l e Pressed C e t y l A1 coho1 DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amphisol
% by Weight
4.00 1.oo 2.00 5.00 7.50 6.00
Dimethicone(and)Trimethylsiloxysilicate/Dow C o r n i n g 593 O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e / P a r s o l MCX Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e / U v i n u l 0-18 5.00 O c t y l d o d e c y l N e o p e n t a n o a t e / E l e f a c 1-205 5.00 Methylparaben (and) B u t y l p a r a b e n (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben/Nipastat 0.20 D i ( c h o l e s t e r y l , behenyl, o c t y l d o d e c y l ) N-Lauroyl-L5.00 G l u t a m i c A c i d e s t e r / E l d e w CL-301 P a r t B: D e i o n i z e d Water 57.75 Sodium Carbomer/PNC 400 0.25 P a r t C: D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germall I 1 0.30 D e i o n i z e d Water 1.oo Combine p a r t A and h e a t t o 75 degrees C e n t i g r a d e w i t h m i x i n g . Heat d e i o n i z e d w a t e r o f p a r t B t o 75 d e g r e e s C . D i s p e r s e PNC 400 i n t o t h e w a t e r w i t h h i g h shear m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m g e l i s formed. Add p a r t A t o p a r t 0 w i t h m i x i n g . H o l d a t 75 d e g r e e s f o r 15 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 40 d e g r e e s C and add p r e m i x e d p a r t C w i t h c o n t i n u e d m i x i n g . Cool t o 30 d e g r e e s C . SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, Inc.: Suggested Formulations
416
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Balm, (Cold Processing) SPF 8 (DIN 67501)* Inqredients: Demi n e r a l i zed w a t e r E t h y l a l c o h o l (96 v o l . % ) denatured Trilon B liquid D-Panthenol G e r m a l l 115 Phenoni p Carbopol 940 Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% aq
%(w/w) 72,900 8 ;500 0,100 0,500 0,200 0,300 0,500 2,200
s o l u t i on)
1,2-Propylene g l y c o l Cremogen A l o e Vera
3,000 2,000
Neo H e l i o p a n , Type AV B a y s i l o n e F l u i d PK 20 Bi sabolol Perfume O i l
6,500 3,000 0,100 0,200
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r : T e s t e d mean SPF 8 . 2 a c c o r d i n g t o t h e German D I N 67501 method. Ma nu fa ctu ri n g Process: P a r t A: D i s s o l v e T r i l o n B, P a n t h e n o l and G e r m a l l 115 i n t h e m i x t u r e o f a l c o h o l and w a t e r . Then s l o w l y add u n d e r s t i r r i n g Carbopol 940 and c o n t i n u e u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . P a r t B: Add s l o w l y t h e sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n t o p a r t A f o r n e u t r a l i z a t i o n . A t r a n s p a r e n t h i g h v i s c i d g e l w i l l be formed. Part C: S u c c e s s i v e l y add w i t h s t i r r i n g p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and Cremogen A l o e Vera i n t o t h e g e l p a r t A/B. P a r t D: B l e n d t h e i n g r e d i e n t s and add t h e m i x t u r e w i t h s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e g e l p a r t A/B/C. A f t e r c o m p l e t e m i x i n g i t i s n e c e s s a r y t o pass t h e d i s p e r s i o n t h r o u g h a homogenizer ( c o l l l o i d m i l l ) . The Sunscreen Balm c o n t a i n s no emu1 s i f i e r .
SOURCE:
Haarman & Reimer: F o r m u l a t i o n
K 18/5-51132 A / €
Sun Care Products
417
Sunscreen Cream I l l u s t r a t e s t h e use o f Veegum P r o as a s u s p e n d i n g a g e n t and v i s c o s i t y m o d i f i e r . Veegum P r o e f f e c t i v e l y t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l i z e s t h e e m u l s i o n even a t e l e v a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s . T h i s l o t i o n has an e s t i m a t e d SPF o f 12 and has a l i g h t f e e l w i t h q u i c k , g r e a s e l e s s r u b - i n . Benzophenone-3 i s a UV-A a b s o r b e r f o r p r o t e c t i o n a g a i n s t t a n n i ng r a d i a t i o n . O c t y l M e t h o x y c i nnamate i s a U V - B a b s o r b e r f o r p r o t e c t i o n a g a i n s t b u r n i ng r a d i a t i on. Inqredient: A Veegum P r o Water Propylene g l y c o l Triethanolamine B
C
I bv W t . 1.5 67.7 3.0 0.6
Benzophenone-3 ( 1 ) C12-15 A l c o h o l s Benzoate ( 2 ) O c t y l Methoxycinnamate ( 3 ) M i n e r a l O i l (and) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l S t e a r i c a c i d XXX C18-36 A c i d ( 5 ) G l y c o l S t e a r a t e SE ( 6 ) Cetyl alcohol
(4)
P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, F r a g r a n c e (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6)
5.0 7.5 7.5 4.0 2.0 0.2 0.5 0.5 q.s.
U v i n u l M-40 F i n s o l v TN P a r s o l MCX Ritachol Synchrowax AW1 -C C e r a s y n t MN
Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r t o 75 t o 8OC, t h e n s l o w l y add t h e Veegum P r o w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r . M i x u n t i l smooth. Add rernai n i ng in g r e d i e n t s in o r d e r shown w i t h c a r e f u l m i x i ng u n t i 1 smooth, m a i n t a i n a t 75 t o 8OC. Heat B t o 7 5 t o 8OC. Add 0 t o A and m i x u n t i l c o o l . Add C . C o n s i s t e n c y : Cream Suggested P a c k a g i n g : Pump b o t t l e o r t u b e Comments : T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o s e r v e as a g u i d e f o r t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co.,
I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n No. 421
41 8
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Cream
WL% 1 . A - C P o l y e t h y l e n e 61 7 2 . Beeswax 3 . Amerchol L-101 4 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 S . S . 5 . Dow F l u i d 200, 350 c s . 6 . 2- E thy l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i is o s t e a r a t e 8 . E s c a l o l 507 9. Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
3.0
1 0 . S o r b i t o 1 (70%) 11.Sodium B o r a t e , Anhydrous 12.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 1 3 . G e r m a l l 115 14.Water
5.0
2.0 5.0
6.2 1. o 7.0 5.5 5.0 0.1
0.3
0.2 0.3 59.4
Procedure: Weigh 1-9 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n can b e much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 10-14 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and s h e a r w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 67C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e w h o l e c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add p e r f u m e , d e - a e r a t e and package. R e f : 51 89-4-1 W/O Sunscreen Cream
Wt.% 1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 2 . Beeswax 3 . Amerchol L-101 4 . Isopropyl Palmitate 5 . Dow 200 F l u i d , 350 c s . 6 . 2- E thy l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i is o s t e a r a t e 8 . E s c a l o l 507 9 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 1 0 . S o r b i t o 1 (70%) 11.Sodium B o r a t e , Anhydrous
12.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 1 3 . G e r m a l l 115 1 4 . Water
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
3.0
2.0 5.0 6.2 1.o 7.0 5.5 5.0 0.1 5.0
0.3 0.2 0.3 59.4
Sun Care Products
419
Sunscreen Cream Water-in-Oil (Expected SPF 15+) A) L a u r y l m e t h i cone c o p o l y o l Carnation M i neral O i 1 O c t y l p-methoxy c i n n a m a t e Benzophenone-3 Titanium dioxide (small p a r t i c l e size) G l y c e r y l monooleate C12-15 a l c o h o l s b e n z o a t e Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l
2.00% 5.00 7.50 2.00 4.00 1 .oo 5.00 0.50
B) Water Sodium c h l o r i d e S o r b i t o l (70%)
2.00 3.00
q.s.
C) P r e s e r v a t ive Procedure: Combine A u s i n g moderate a g i t a t i o n . Combine 0 . Add B t o A very slowly using very vigorous a g i t a t i o n , heating t o melt h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l . Add C . Pass t h r o u g h homogenizer t o i n s u r e s m a l l u n i f o r m p a r t i c l e s a r e p r o d u c e d . Package. Skin Bronzing Gream L - T y r o s i ne Phenyl a1 a n i ne Aspartic acid Esci n Copper g l u c o n a t e Hydrolyzed c o l l a g e n Carrot oleoresin S t . J o h n ' s Wort e x t r a c t Dihydroxyacetone Cetyl alcohol Preservative Emu1 s i f ie r s , t h i c k e n i ng a g e n t s Carnation Mineral O i 1 Lanol i n Stearin T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (85%) Water
SOURCE: W i t c o
0.20% 0.10 0.10 0.05 0.01 1.50 0.15 1 .oo 0.50 1 .oo q.s. 4.00 15.00 3.00 3.00 1 .oo q . s . t o 100.00
C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formulations
420
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Cream P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 Beeswax Amerchol 1-101 Isopropyl Palmitate Dow 2 0 0 F l u i d , 350 c s . 2 - E t h y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 7. Triglycerol D i isostearate 8 . E s c a l o l 507 9 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
A-C
10. S o r b i t o 1 (70%) 11.Sodium B o r a t e , Anhydrous 12.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate
13.Germall 1 4 . Water
115
W t .% 3.0 2.0 5.0 6.2
1.0 7.0 5.5 5.0 0.1 5.0 0.3 0.2 0.3 59.4
Procedure: Weigh 1-9 and h e a t t o 85C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e in t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g t e m p e r a t u r e i s used, s o l v a t i o n c a n be much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 10-14 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . H o l d a t 85C. P l a c e wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i 1 1 . A t 67C t h e c r u d e d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy e m u l s i o n f o r m s . C o n t i n u e s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y s h e a r e d . Add perfume, d e - a e r a t e and package. R e f : 51 89-4-9 O/W Sunscreen Lotion
w3.3 1 . A-C Copolymer 580 2 . D i s t i 1l e d I s o p r o p y l L a n o l a t e 3 . E s c a l o l 507 4 . Dow 556 F l u i d 5 . P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l D i p e l a r g o n a t e 6 . E t h o x y o l 24 7 . A r l a c e l 60 8 . Tween 6 0 9 . Propyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate 1 0 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 11 .Carbop01 941 12 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 13.Methyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate 14.Water
SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
2.0 3.0 5.0 2.0 10.0 1.o 1. o 2.0 0.1 5.0
0.5 0.75 0.2 67.45
Sun Care Products
421
Sun Screen Cream W/O A.
M i g l y o l Gel B I m w i t o r 780K A l u g e l DF 30
9.
Hard p a r a f f i n Paraffin o i l Eusolex 6300 Antioxidants
C.
W B 20.0 10.0 3.0
3.0 5.0 4.0 qs
Perfume Preservative
qs
qs
D. E u s o l e x 232
6.0 5.0
Triethanolamine Mowiol 10-98 Water
3.0 100.0
Preparation: The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and h e a t e d t o 8OC. Those o f B . a r e b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and h e a t e d t o A . D. i s h e a t e d t o a p p r o x . 75C and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . + B . Perfume i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t a p p r o x . 30C. Sun Screen Cream O/W A.
B.
I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s M i g l y o l 840 Lanette N Neo H e l i o p a n E 1000 1,2-Propylene g l y c o l H y g r o p l ex HHG Water
C. Perfume Preservative
Wt% 10.0 8.0 6.0 3.0
3.0 5.0 t o 100.0
qs qs
Preparation: The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e h e a t e d t o 75-8OC. Those o f 13. a r e h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . Perfume i s added a t a p p r o x . 30C.
SOURCE: H u l s America Inc.: F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s : Formulas
422
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sun Screen Cream W/O, Oily A.
Q 20.0
M i g l y o l 840 Gel 8 S o f t i s a n 649 I m w i t o r 780 K Paraffin oi 1 Neo H e l i o p a n E 1000 Hard p a r a f f in
5.0
5.0 8.0 3.0 3.0
B . Magnesium s u l p h a t e
2.0 t o 100.0
Water C.
Perfume Preservative
qs qs
P r e p a r a t ion : The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e m i x e d and h e a t e d t o 75-80C. Those o f 8 . a r e b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . Perfume i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t 30C. Self Tanning Lotion A.
Wt$ 5.0 1.5 1.5 1.o 5.0 2.5
M i g l y o l 812 M a r l o w e t TA 25 M a r l o w e t TA 6 Cremophor EL 1,2-Propylene g l y c o l Cetyl alcohol
B . Water
C.
Perfume
D.
Dihydroxyacetone Water P r e s e r v a t ive
t o 100.0
Preparation: The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e h e a t e d t o 75-8OC. Those o f 8. a r e b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . D . i s d i s s o l v e d and added, t o g e t h e r w i t h C, a t a p p r o x . 3 0 C .
SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . :
For mulations f o r Cosmetics:
Formulas
Sun Care Products
423
Sunscreen Cream
w
Inaredients: O c t y l methoxycinnimate Benzophenone-3 Arlamol E Stearyl alcohol D i m e t h i c o n e , 350 c p s . B r i j 721s B r i j 72
7.00 3.00 5.00 0.50 0.50 2.00 2.00
A
69.60 0.20
B
Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 940
C
Water, d e i o n i zed Sodium h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % W / W
aqueous)
10.00 0.20
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60 d e g . C and ( B ) t o 65 d e g . C . Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) and s t i r w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) b e l o w 60 deg. C . S t i r t o 35 deg. C . Add w a t e r t o r e p l a c e loss b y e v a p o r a t i o n and package. Sunscreen Cream Inaredients: O c t y l m e t h o x y c i n n i mate Benzophenone-3 Arlamol E Stearyl alcohol D i m e t h i c o n e , 350 c p s . B r i j 721s B r i j 72
A
%w/w 5.00 0.50 5.00 0.50 0.50 2.00 2.00
B
Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 940
74.10 0.20
C
Water, d e i o n i zed Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W / W aqueous)
10.00 0.20
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60 deg. C and ( B ) t o 65 d e g . C . Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) and s t i r w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) b e l o w 60 d e g . C . S t i r t o 35 deg. C . Add w a t e r t o r e p l a c e l o s s by e v a p o r a t i o n and package.
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
424
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Cream o/ow/w Inaredient: P a r t A: D e i o n i zed Water 78.16 0.3 Rheol a t e 5 0 0 0 Propylene Carbonate 2.5 Part B: Panal ene 8.0 1.o S i l i c o n e 7207 Promulgen D 0.5 C e r a p h y l 494 2.0 P a r t C: AMP-95 0.24 Part D: E u x y l K-400 0.3 F i n s o l v TN 2.0 E s c a l o l 507 5.0 Manufacturing Directions: 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A b y s l o w l y s i f t i n g i n t h e polymer t o t h e wa te r, m i x i n g f o r 20 m i n u t e s , t h e n a d d i n g t h e p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l . Heat t o 80C. 2 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t 6 , t h e n h e a t t o 78C. 3 . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M i x f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s , t h e n add P a r t C . 4. Cool t o 40C b e f o r e a d d i n g P a r t D . Package a t Room T e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a TS-330 Suntan Cream % by Weiqht M a t e r ia 1s : Part A: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 73.50 2. Glycerine 2.50 3 . Triethanolamine 0.70 4 . M e t h y l Paraben 0.10 5 . Bentone LT r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 0.50 Part E: 6 . C e r a p h y l 424 3.00 7. Isocetyl Stearate 2.00 0 . Acetol 2.50 1.oo 9 . Cocoa B u t t e r 1 0 . H y s t r e n e 5016 4.00 1 1 . Lexemul 503 6.80 1 2 . E s c a l o l 507 3.00 0.10 1 3 . P r o p y l Paraben P a r t C : Fragrance 0.30 Manufacturing Directions: 1 . P a r t A - I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e , add i t e m s 1 t o 4 and h e a t t o 60C. U s i n g a homomixer, add i t e m 5 s l o w l y t o a v o i d lumps and m i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l homogeneous. Heat t o 80C. 2. P a r t 5 - I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , add i t e m s 6 t o 1 3 and h e a t t o 80C. M i x u n t i 1 compl e t e l y me1t e d and homogeneous. 3 . Add P a r t B s l o w l y i n P a r t A a t 80C u s i n g sweep b l a d e s . 4 . A t 50C, add P a r t C, homogenize and f i l l u n i t s . F o r m u l a TS-256 SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products
425
Sunscreen Gel (approx. SPF 10) A c l e a r s u n s c r e e n g e l d e s i g n e d t o p r o v i d e UV p r o t e c t i o n w h i l e l e a v i n g t h e s k i n s o f t and c o n d i t i o n e d . Geahlene p r o v i d e s v i s c o s i t y , e m o l ? i e n c y , and w a t e r r e p e l l e n c y t o t h i s f o r m u l a .
I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: A M i n e r a l O i l ( a n d ) Hydrogenated B u t y l e n e / E t h y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated E t h y l e n e / P r o p y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer//Geahlene 750 O c t y l d o d e c y l N e o p e n t a n o a t e / E l e f a c 1-205 Tocopherol Ac etate/Vi ta mi n E Acet at e Fragrance B
O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Parsol Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e / U v i n u l 0-18 P r o p y l paraben
C
D&C Green No. 6
MCX
Wei a h t % 73.80 14.00 0.50 0.10 7.50 2.00 2.00 0.10
q.s.
Procedure: M i x A u n t i l homogeneous. Heat B t o 60C u n t i l c l e a r . Add B t o A w i t h moderate m i x i n g . Add C as n e c e s s a r y . Sunscreen Gel (approx. SPF 12) A c l e a r s u n s c r e e n g e l w i t h e x c e l l e n t s p r e a d a b i l i t y and a p l e a s a n t , e m o l l i e n t a f t e r f e e l . Geahlene p r o v i d e s v i s c o s i t y , l u b r i c i t y , and w a t e r r e p e l l e n c y t o t h i s f o r m u l a .
I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: M i n e r a l O i l ( a n d ) Hydrogenated B u t y l e n e / E t h y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer ( a n d ) Hydrogenated E t h y l e n e / P r o p y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer//Geahlene 750 I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e / P r i s o r i ne 2021 Tocopherol A c e t a t e / V i tami n E A c e t a t e Fragrance
Wei n h t %
A
B
O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e / P a r s o l MCX Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e / U v i n u l 0-18 Propylparaben
C
D&C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake
65.00 20.80 0.50 0.10 7.50 4.00 2.00 0.10 q.s.
Procedure: M i x A u n t i l homogeneous. Heat B t o 60C u n t i l c l e a r . Add B t o A w i t h moderate m i x i n g . Add C as n e c e s s a r y .
SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
426
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Gel SPF 6 (FDA-OTC)*
m
Inqredients: A E t h y l a l c o h o l ( 9 6 V o l . %) d e n a t u r e d Demi n e r a l ized w a t e r 1 , P - P r o p y l ene g l y c o l Germaben I 1 A1 1a n t o i n D-Panthenol C a r b o p o l 940
5,000 60,350 5,000 1,000 0,100 0,500 1,100 5,000 2,200
B
Demi n e r a l ized w a t e r Triethanolamine
C
Demi n e r a l ized w a t e r Neo H e l i o p a n , Type Hydro Triethanolamine
D
Cremophor NP 14 Perfume O i l
1,200 0,300
E
Sunset Y e l l o w 307009 1% aq. s o l u t i o n
0,050
15,000 2,000 1,200
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r : T e s t e d SPF 5 . 9 on a f i v e s u b j e c t p a n e l a c c o r d i n g t o t h e FDA-OTC p r o p o s e d method. M a n u f a c t u r i n g Process: Part A: D i s s o l ve p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l , Germaben 1 1 , P a n t h e n o l and A1 1ant o i n i n t h e a l c o h o l - w a t e r s o l u t i o n . Then s l o w l y add w h i l e s t i r r i n g C a r b o p o l 940 and c o n t i n u e u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . P a r t B: D i l u t e t h e n e u t r a l i z i n g a g e n t w i t h w a t e r and add s l o w l y i n t o p a r t A f o r n e u t r a l i z a t i o n . A h i g h v i s c i d g e l w i l l be formed. Part C: Add Neo H e l i o p a n , Type H y d r o w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e w a t e r t o g e t a s u s p e n s i o n . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g and add s l o w l y t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e u n t i l t h e n e u t r a l i z a t i o n o f Neo H e l i o p a n , Type Hydro i s c o m p l e t e and a c l e a r s o l u t i o n i s o b t a i n e d . B e f o r e a d d i n g t h e s o l u t i o n i n t o t h e g e l p a r t A/B, i t i s recommendable t o f i l t e r t h e s o l u t i on. P a r t D: B l e n d t h e p e r f u m e o i l w i t h t h e s o l u b i l i z e r and add t h e m i x t u r e w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e g e l A/B/C. P a r t E: W h i l e s t i r r i n g , add t h e c o l o r a n t t o t h e t r a n s p a r e n t g e l . The pH v a l u e o f t h e g e l s h o u l d be a p p r o x . 7 . 2 - 7 . 5 . A t a pH v a l u e b e l o w 7 Neo H e l i o p a n , Type Hydro c o u l d p r e c i p i t a t e .
SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: F o r m u l a K 18/5-51282
D/E
Sun Care Products
427
Sunscreen Lotion T h i s f o r m u l a d e m o n s t r a t e s t h e r h e o l o g i c a and s t a b i l i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a and o f S i l i c o n y l Beeswax. I n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h i s f o r m u l a i s t h e sunscreen N o H e l i o p a n AV ( O c t y l methoxycinnamate) g i v i n g t h i s f o r m u l a an a p p r o p r i a t e SPF v a l u e . The p r o d u c t has h i g h g l o s s and e x c e l l e n t s k i n f e e l . The r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a a l l o w f o r t h i s p r o d u c t t o b e packaged i n c o n v e n i e n t t u b e s o r squeeze b o t t l e s . O i l Phase: Neo H e l i o p a n AV (H&R) 5.00% Squalane (Centerchem) 2.00% Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax; K o s t e r Keunen) 4.00% G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel) 0.50% 1.50% L i g h t Mineral O i l (Witco) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) 4.00% Liquapar ( S u tto n ) 0.40% Octyl Palmitate (Inolex) 5.00% Shea B u t t e r ( K o s t e r Keunen) 4.00% E m u l s i f y i n g Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1.50% 0.10% V i t a m i n E (BASF) 0.10% V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) S t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) 0.50% C e r e s i n e 130/135 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 0.70% Hexanediol Behenyl Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1.00% S i l i c o n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1.40% P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) 0.20% E l e f a c I 205 ( B e r n e l ) 1.40% 3.00% Sunf 1ower O i 1 ( L i po) Propylene G l y c o l D i o c t a n at e ( I n o l e x ) 5.00% I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) 3.00% D i is o s t e a r y l Mal a t e ( B e r n e l ) 1.20% 1 .OO% Gamma O r z a n o l ( K o s t e r Keunen) Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i 11ed) 41 .70% 1,3-Butylene G l y c o l (Hoechst) 3.00% 0.30% Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e ( H e r c u l e s ) K e l t r o l TF ( K e l c o ) 0.30% M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) 0.30% 0.60% Sodium B o r a t e ( B o r a x ) Water Phase 11: Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) 5.00% Tea 99% (Dow) 0.80% Act ive Phase : S i l i c o n e 245 (Dow) 1.00% Phenonip ( N i p a ) 0.50% Heat t h e w a t e r phase t o 8OC under a g i t a t i o n e n s u r i n g t h a t t h e e n t i r e phase i s s o l u b i l i z e d . Heat and m i x t h e o i l phase t o 82C. S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase, c o o l t o 70C and add w a t e r phase 11. Cool t o 40 and add t h e a c t i v e phase. Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . I t i s easy t o a l t e r t h e sunscreen t o s u i t y o u r p r e f e r e n c e , w i t h o u t c h a n g i n g t h e c o n s i s t e n c y . The e m u l s i o n v i s c o s i t y can e a s i l y be a l t e r e d b y c h a n g i n g t h e o i l a n d / o r wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n . Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) can b e added t o n a t u r a l l y enhance SPF. SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
428
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Lotion (approx. SPF 15) T h i s n o n g r e a s y s u n s c r e e n i s e a s i l y a p p l i e d and has a d r y a f t e r f e e l . The Geahlene 750 adds v i s c o s i t y and r i c h n e s s t o t h e l o t i o n , and s h o u l d c o n t r i b u t e t o w a t e r r e s i s t a n c e . I n s r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: A D e i o n i z e d Water A c r y l a t e s C10-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e C r o s s p o l y m e r / C a r b o p o l 1382 Methylparaben T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA/Hamp-Ene 220
Wei a h t % 69.80 0.20 0.15 0.10
B
T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99%
0.20
C
M i n e r a l O i l (and) H v d r o s e n a t e d B u t v l e n e / E t h y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer i a n d j Hyd o g e n a t e d E t h y l e n e / P r o p y l e n e / S t y r e n e Copolymer /Geahl ene 750 O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e / P a r s o MCX Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 O c t y l S a l icy1 a t e / U v i n u l 0-1 8 C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 16 Propylparaben Phenoxyethanol/Emeressence 1 60 S t e a r i c A c i d/Emersol 132 P o t a s s i um C e t y l Phosphate/Amphi s o l K
0.00 7.50 4.00 2 * 00 1 .oo 0.05 0.60 2.00 2.00
D
D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l
I1
Fragrance
0.30 0.10
Procedure: D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l 1382 in r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i zed w a t e r . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y l u m p - f r e e . Heat t o 80C. Add r e m a i n i n g p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , h e a t p a r t C t o 80-85C. M i x u n t i l a l l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t C t o p a r t A . M i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s u n t i l homogeneous. Cool t o 4 0 C . Add p a r t D . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 30C.
SOURCE:
Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Sun Care Products
Sunscreen Lotion
w
Insredients: A O c t y l methoxyci nnimate Benzophenone-3 Petrolatum Dimethicone B r i j 721s B r i j 72 B
Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 934
C
Water, d e i o n i zed Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W
7.00 3.00 25.00 3.00 1.20 3.00 46.60 0.20 aqueous)
10.00 0.20
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60 deg. C and ( 8 ) t o 65 deg. C . Add (B) t o ( A ) and s t i r w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) b e l o w 60 deg. C . S t i r t o 35 deg. C . Add w a t e r t o r e p l a c e l o s s by e v a p o r a t i o n and package.
O/W Emollient Sunscreen Lotion
w
Innredients: A O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA Benzophenone-3 Arlamol E Stearyl alcohol Dimethicone A r l a s o l v e 200 B r i j 72
7.00 3.00 7.00 2.50 1 .oo 3.10 3.90
B
Water Carbomer 934
C
Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W
D
* P r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e *q.s.
72.10 0.20 aqueous)
0.20
these i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n w a t e r and h e a t ( B ) t o 70C. Heat ( A ) t o 72C. and add (B) t o ( A ) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add ( C ) and i n c r e a s e speed of t h e a g i t a t i o n as needed. Add ( D ) and replace water l o s t by evaporation. SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
429
430
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Lotion
(O/W)
SPF 6 (DIN 67501)* %(w/w) Innredients: 25,000 Demi n e r a l ized w a t e r 0,400 Carbopol 934 2,050 Sodium h y d r o x i d e , (10% aq. s o l u t i o n ) 2,500 Tegin M 1,950 Tagat S 1,800 Lanette 0 2,500 P a r a f f i n o i 1 (70 mPas) 2,000 Isopropyl myristate 3,000 M y r i t o l 318 2,500 Neo H e l i o p a n , Type AV 2,000 C e t i o l MM 0,500 A b i l 100 0,200 Phenoni p 36,850 Demi n e r a l ized w a t e r 0,300 Phenoni p 3,350 Neo H e l i o p a n , Type Hydro used a s a 15% a q . s o l u t i o n n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h s o d i urn h y d r o x i d e c o r r e s p o n d i n g 0,5% a c t i v e Neo H e l i o p a n , Type Hydro 2,000 1,2-Propylene g l y c o l 10,000 Demi n e r a l ized w a t e r 0,580 P h o s p h o r i c a c i d , D i s o d i um s a l t 0,120 P h o s p h o r i c a c i d , Monopotassium s a l t 0,400 Perfume O i l
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r T e s t e d mean SPF 6 a c c o r d i n g t o t h e German D I N 67501 method. M a n u fa c t u r i n g Process: Part A: D i s p e r s e t h e Carbopol i n w a t e r u s i n g h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . M i x t o f o r m a u n i f o r m d i s p e r s i o n f r e e f r o m lumps. W i t h s t i r r i n g add t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n t h e sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n t o f o r m a high v i s c i d gel. P a r t 0 : Heat t o 75C. P a r t C: Heat t o 85C. Add p a r t C t o p a r t B w h i l e s t i r r i n g r a p i d l y . M i x w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 60C and add t h e Carbopol g e l p a r t A . P a r t D: D i s s o l v e D i s o d i um Phosphate and P o t a s s i um Phosphate in w a t e r a t 60C. Add t h e b u f f e r s o l u t i o n t o t h e e m u l s i o n a t 55-60C. P a r t E: Cool w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o 35-40C and add t h e perfume o i l . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . The pH-value o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u l s i o n s h o u l d be 7 . 5 and must be c o n t r o l l e d .
SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: F o r m u l a t i o n K 18/1-51093
D/E
Sun Care Products
431
Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) SPF 11 (DIN 67501)* Inaredients: Tegin M Tagat S Lanette 0 P a r a f f i n o i l (70mPas) Isopropyl myri s t a t e M y r i t o l 318 Neo H e l i o p a n , Type E 1000 C e t i o l MM A b i l 100 Phenoni p
%(w/w) 3,500 1,500 2,700 2,000 2,000 3,000 3,000 2,000
0,500 0,200
Demineralized water C a r b o p o l 934 Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% aq. s o l u t i o n ) Neo H e l i o p a n , Type Hydro used as a 15% a q . s o l u t i o n n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e c o r r e s p o n d i n g 2% a c t i v e Neo H e l i o p a n , Type H y d r o Phenoni p
52,500 0,400 2,050 13,350
Demineralized water Phosphoric a c i d , Disodium s a l t P h o s p h o r i c a c i d , Monopotassium s a l t
10,000 0,580 0,120
0,200
0,400
Perfume O i l
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r : T e s t e d mean SPF 1 1 . 8 a c c o r d i n g t o t h e German DIN 67501 method. Ma nu fac t ur ing Process: P a r t A: Heat t o 7 5 C . Part 8: D i s p e r s e t h e C a r b o p o l w e l l i n w a t e r u s i n g h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . M i x t o f o r m a u n i f o r m d i s p e r s i o n f r e e f r o m l u m p s . Add w i t h s t i r r i n g t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n Phenonip and t h e sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n . Then add t h e n e u t r a l i z e d s o l u t i o n o f t h e 15% Neo H e l i o p a n , Type H y d r o and h e a t t o 85C. Add p a r t B s l o w l y w i t h t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n t o p a r t A . Then c o o l w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 60C. Part C: D i s s o l v e D i c a l c i um Phosphate and P o t a s s i um Phosphate i n w a t e r a t 60C ( b u f f e r s y s t e m ) . Add p a r t C t o p a r t A/B and c o o l w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 35-40C. P a r t D: Add t h e p e r f u m e o i l and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . The pH v a l u e o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u l s i o n s h o u l d b e 7 . 5 and must be c o n t r o l l e d . SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer:
Formulation K 18/1-51097/E
432
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Lotion (O/W) SPF 4 (DIN 67501) Inqredients: A r l a t o n e 983 S B r i j 76 Lanette 0 P a r a f f i n o i l ( 7 0 mPas) C e g e s o f t C24 Eutanol G B a y s i l o n e F l u i d M10 Neo H e l i o p a n , Type E 1000 Solbrol P B Demineralized water 1,2 Propylene g l y c o l Solbrol M G e r m a l l 115 C Demi n e r a l i zed w a t e r C a r b o p o l 934 Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% s o l u t i o n i n w a t e r ) Perfume O i l
%(w/w) 1,500 1,000 I , 200 2,000 3,000 5,000 1,000 3,500
A
o , oao
52,370 2,000 0,200 0,150 25,000 0,300 1,300 0,400
Manufacturing Process: P a r t A : Heat up t o 75C. P a r t B : Heat up t o 85C. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Cool w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 55C. P a r t C : D i s p e r s e t h e Carbopol i n t h e w a t e r u s i n g h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . M i x t o f o r m a u n i f o r m d i s p e r s i o n f r e e f r o m lumps. Add sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o f o r m a h i g h v i s c i d g e l . Add p a r t C t o p a r t A/B w h i l e s t i r r i n g . A t 3 5 C add t h e f r a g r a n c e and c o o l down w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . The pH v a l u e o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u l s i o n s h o u l d b e 7 - 7 . 5 .
SOURCE: Haarman & R e i m e r : Formula K 1 8 / 1 - 5 1
090 / E
Sun Care Products
433
Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) SPF 18 (FDA-OTC)* Ingredients: Neo H e l i o p a n , Type AV Neo H e l i o p. a n ,. TvDe _ . MA Isopropyl myri s t a t e M y r j 52 C u t i n a MD Promulgen D A n t a r o n V-220 B a y s i l o n e F l u i d M 10
%(w/w) 7,500 5,000 3i000 2,000 3,000 2,000 4,000 2,000
Demi n e r a l ized w a t e r Carbopol 940; used as a 2% aq. s o l u t i o n 1,2-Propylene g l y c o l T r i l o n BD
45,830 15,000 2,000 0,100
Neo H e l i o p a n , Type Hydro used as a 30% aq. s o l u t i o n n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e c o r r e s p o n d i n g 2% a c t i v e Neo H e l i o p a n Type Hydro
6,670
Triethanolamine
0,500
Germaben I 1 Perfume O i l
1,000 0,400
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r : T e s t e d mean SPF v a l u e 18.25 on a f i v e s u b j e c t p a n e l a c c o r d i n g t o t h e FDA-OTC p r o p o s e d method. M a n u f a c t u r i n g Process: I n a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l w e i g h phase A and h e a t t o 75C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . I n another vessel a b l e t o c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e batch, weigh phase B and h e a t t o 75C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add phase A t o phase 0 , m i x for 10 m i n u t e s and add phase C. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m and s t a r t c o o l ing w i t h c o n t i n u o u s a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 40C and add phases D and E. C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o 28-25C and package.
SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: F o r m u l a t i o n
K 18/1-51677/E
434
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Lotion (w/o) SPF 10 (DIN 67501)* Ingredients: A r l a c e l 481 A r l a c e l 989 Eutanol G Isopropyl isostearate P a r a f f i n o i l ( 7 0 mPas) Neo H e l i o p a n , Type E 1000 Neo H e l i o p a n , Type AV Neo H e l i o p a n , Type BB B a y s i l o n e F l u i d M 10 V a s e l i n e Type M e r k u r 1546 Amerchol L 101 Solbrol P
%(w/w) 3,500 1,500 2,250 2,250 3,340 4,000 4,000 1,000 1,000 7,500 1,000 0,080
B
Demi n e r a l i zed w a t e r Solbrol M G l y c e r i n 86% Magnesi um s u l f a t e
65,380 0,200 2,000 0,500
C
Perfume O i l
A
0,500
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r : T e s t e d mean SPF 1 0 . 6 a c c o r d i n g t o t h e German D I N 67501 method. Manufacturing Process: P a r t A : Heat t o 75C. P a r t B: H e a t t o 85-9OC. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A s l o w l y s t i r r i n g . A t 70C homogenize t h e e m u l s i o n f o r a Part C: C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g u n d e r s t i r r i n g and add t h e 35C i n t o t h e e m u l s i o n . Then c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g t erature.
SOURCE:
under thorough few m i n u t e s . perfume o i l a t o room temp-
Haarman & R e i m e r : F o r m u l a t i o n K 1 8 / 1 - 5 1 0 9 8 / E
Sun Care Products
435
Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) (cold processing) SPF 6 (FDA-OTC)*, waterproof** Inpredients: Demi n e r a l ized w a t e r 1 , Z - p r o p y l ene g l y c o l Arosol Solbrol M Solbrol P Trilon B liquid
%(w/w) 77,500 2,000 0,500 0,250 0,100 0,100
A
B
Nso H e l i o p a n , Type A V Neo H e l i o p a n , Type E 1000 P a r a f f i n o i l ( 7 0 mPas) Cetiol S Lameform TGI Perfume o i l Pemulen TR-1 C a r b o p o l 954
3,000 3,000 6,500 5,000 1,000 0,300 0,250 0,050
C
Triethanolamine
0,450
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r ( S P F ) : The SPF was d e t e r m i n e d on a f i v e s u b j e c t p a n e l t e s t a c c o r d i n g t o t h e FDA-OTC p r o p o s e d method. **Waterproof: The p r o c e d u r e f o r d e t e r m i n i n g " w a t e r p r o o f " e f f e c t i v e n e s s was 20 m i n u t e s m o d e r a t e a c t i v i t y i n w a t e r . The SPF b e f o r e w a t e r i m m e r s i o n was 5 . 7 and a f t e r w a t e r i m m e r s i o n 6 . 1 . Man uf act u ri ng Process: Part A: D i s s o l v e A r o s o l , S o l t r o l P and M i n p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l . Add t h e m i x t u r e and T r i l o n B l i q u i d t o t h e w a t e r . P a r t B: Disperse M i x a1 1 i n g r e d i e n t s ( w i t h o u t Permul en and C a r b o p o l ) C a r b o p o l and Pemulen v e r y c a r e f u l l y w i t h h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . Then add p a r t B t o p a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . S t i r f o r 45 m i n u t e s . P a r t C: Add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e w h i l e s t i r r i n g and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. The p H - v a l u e o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u l s i o n s h o u l d b e a p p r o x . 7 and has t o b e c o n t r o l l e d .
.
SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: F o r m u l a t i o n K 1 8 / 1 - 5 1
669 C / E
436
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Lotion SPF 30 (FDA-OTC)* Ingredients: A Neo H e l i o p a n , Type AV Neo H e l i o p a n , Type BB Neo H e l i o p a n , Type 303 Ganex WP 660 Lanette 0 A b i l 100 Protachem SQI
%(w/w) 7,500 6,000 91000 3,000 0,500 2,000 0,200
B
Deionized water Carbopol 940 used as a 2% aq. s o l u t i o n Pemulen TR-1 used as a 2% a q . s o l u t i o n l I 2 - P r o p y 1 ene g l y c o l
C
T r i e t h a n o l ami ne
0,250
D
Germaben I 1 Perfume O i l
1,000 0.400
52,150 5,000 10,000 3,000
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r : T e s t e d SPF 3 1 . 5 on a f i v e s u b j e c t p a n e l a c c o r d i n g t o t h e FDA-OTC p r o p o s e d method. Ma nuf a ctu ri n g Process: I n a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l w e i g h phase A, h e a t up t o BOC-85C and mix u n t i l uniform. I n another vessel a b l e t o c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e b a t c h , w e i g h phase 8, h e a t t o 80C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . S l o w l y add phase A t o phase B w i t h a g i t a t i o n and m i x f o r t e n m i n u t e s . S l o w l y add phase C and s t a r t c o o l i n g . Cool w i t h c o n t i n u o u s a g i t a t i o n t o 40C and add phase D. C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o 28C-25C. M i l l and package. SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: F o r m u l a t i o n H 101-47-5
Sun Care Products
437
Sunscreen Lotion (O/W) Tested SPF 10 Inaredients: A A r l a c e l 165 Eumulgin B 2 Lanette 0 M y r i t o l 318 C e t i o l OE A b i l 100 Bentone Gel M I 0 C u t i n a CBS Neo H e l i o p a n , Type Neo H e l i o p a n , Type Neo H e l i o p a n , Type Neo H e l i o p a n , Type
AV E 1000
%(w/wl 3.00 1 .oo 1.15 4.00 5.00 1 .oo 3.00 1 .oo 3.00 3.00
MBC BB
1 .oo 0.70
B
Demineralized water Phenoni p G l y c e r i n 86% Veegum u l t r a N a t r o s o l 250 HHR Z i n c O x i d e n e u t r a l H&R
63.05 0.50 3.00 1.oo 0.30 5.00
C
Perfume o i l
0.30
M a n u f a c t u r i n g Process: P a r t A : Heat up t o 75C w i t h t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . P a r t 8: Add Phenonip and g l y c e r i n t o t h e w a t e r . Heat up t o 95C. Then add t h e Veegum u l t r a and t h e N a t r o s o l d u r i n g h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . Then d i s p e r s e Z i n c O x i d e N e u t r a l H&R i n t h e w a t e r phase. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Cool down w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Part C: A t 30C add t h e p e r f u m e o i l t o P a r t A/B and homogenize t h e emu1 s i on. The pH-value o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u l s i o n s h o u l d be a p p r o x . 7 and has t o be checked. I n s t r u c t ion : I n EEC c o u n t r i e s t h e use o f more t h a n 0 . 5 % Benzophenone-3 i n s u n s c r e e n p r o d u c t s is 1 ia b l e t o d e c l a r e : c o n t a i n s Oxybenzone.
SOURCE: Haarman 8, Reimer: Formula K 18/1-21287/E
438
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Lotion (O/W) Tested SPF 16 Inaredients: A r l a c e l 165 Eumulgin 82 Lanette 0 M y r i t o l 318 C e t i o l OE A b i l 100 Bentone Gel M I 0 Neo He1 iopan, Type AV Neo H e l i o p a n , Type E 1000 C u t i n a CBS
%(w/w) 3.00
Demi n e r a l ized w a t e r G l y c e r i n 86% Phenoni p Neo H e l i o p a n , Type Hydro; used as a 15% s o l u t i o n (active: n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e Veegum u l t r a N a t r o s o l 250 HHR Z i n c O x i d e n e u t r a l H&R Perfume o i l
1 1
.oo .oo
4.00 5.00 1 %OO 3,OO 4.00 4.00 1
.oo
49.60 3.00 0.50 13.30 2.00%)
1 .oo 0.30 5.00 0.30
Man u fac t ur ing Process: P a r t A : Heat up t o 75C w i t h t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . P a r t 8: Add Phenonip, g l y c e r i n and t h e Ne0 H e l i o p a n , Type Hydro s o l u t i o n t o t h e w a t e r . Heat up t o 95C. Add Veegum u l t r a and N a t r o s o l d u r i n g h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . Then add Z i n c O x i d e n e u t r a l H&R and d i s p e r s e . Add P a r t B w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o P a r t A C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g t o toom t e m p e r a t u r e . Part C: A t 30C add t h e perfume o i l t o P a r t A/B and homogenize t h e emulsion. The pH-value o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u l s i o n s h o u l d be a p p r o x . 7 . 5 and has t o be checked.
SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: F o r m u l a t i o n K 18/1-21284/E
Sun Care Products
439
Sunscreen Lotion (w/o) SPF 6 (FDA-OTC), waterproof* Inqredients: A A b i l EM 90 T e g i n T 4753 Cetiol S P a r a f f i n o i l ( 3 4 mPas)
%(w/w) 2,000 1,000
B Demi n e r a l ized w a t e r Neo H e l i o p a n , Type Hydro used as a 30% aq s o l u t i o n n e u t r a l ized w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e c o r r e s p o n d i n g 3% a c t i v e Neo H e l i o p a n , Type H y d r o 1 , 2 - P r o p y l ene g l y c o l T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Phenoni p
58,450 10,000
l7;OOO 8,500
C Perfume O i l
2,000 0,350 0,400 0,300
*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r : T e s t e d mean SPF v a l u e b e f o r e swim 6 . 3 2 and a f t e r swim 5 . 7 6 on a f i v e s u b j e c t p a n e l a c c o r d i n g t o t h e FDA-OTC p r o p o s e d method. M a n u f a c t u r i n g Process: P a r t A : Heat t o 70C. P a r t B: D i s s o l v e t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e w a t e r . The pH v a l u e o f t h e w a t e r phase p a r t B s h o u l d be 7 . 5 and must be c o n t r o l l e d . Now add p a r t B w h i l e s l o w l y s t i r r i n g t o p a r t A w i t h i n a t i m e o f 3-5 minutes ( h o t / c o l d procedure). Part C: C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g , a t 30C add t h e f r a g r a n c e . Then pass t h e e m u l s i o n t h r o u g h a homogeniser ( c o l l o i d m i l l ) .
SOURCE: Haarrnan & Reirner: F o r m u l a t i o n K 18/1-51566
A/E
440
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Lotion (W/O) Tested SPF 11 Innredients : A Dehymuls HRE 7 Lameform TGI Pemul g i n 3 2 20 Isopropyl isostearate C e t i o l OE B a y s i l o n e F l u i d M 10 Vitamin E Acetate Neo H e l i o p a n , Type AV Neo H e l i o p a n , Type E 1000 Neo He1 iopan, Type MBC Neo H e l i o p a n , Type BB B
Demi n e r a l ized w a t e r G l y c e r i n 86% Phenoni p Z i n c O x i d e n e u t r a l H&R
C
Perfume o i l
%(w/w) 4.00 4.00 1 .so 8.00 7.50 1 .oo 0.50 4.00 4.00 1.00 1 .so 54.10 3.00 0.50 5.00
0.40
Man uf act u ri ng Process: P a r t A : Heat up t o 75C w i t h t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . P a r t B: Heat up t o 9OC ( w i t h o u t t h e Z i n c O x i d e n e u t r a l H&R). Then add and d i s p e r s e t h e Z i n c O x i d e n e u t r a l H&R. Add P a r t B t o p a r t A s l o w l y w h i l e s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . P a r t C: A t 40C add t h e perfume o i l t o p a r t A / B and homogenize t h e emulsion. I n s t r u c t i on : I n EEC c o u n t r i e s t h e use o f more t h a n 0 . 5 % Benzophenone-3 i n s u n s c r e e n p r o d u c t s i s l i a b l e t o d e c l a r e : c o n t a i n s Oxybenzone. SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: F o r m u l a t i o n K 18/1-51835/E
Sun Care Products
441
Sunscreen Moisturizing Cream T h i s f o r m u l a demonstrates t h e s t a b i l i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f S i l i c o n y l Beeswax. I n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h i s f o r m u l a i s t h e suns c r e e n Neo H e l i o p a n AV ( O c t y l m e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e ) g i v i n g t h i s f o r m u l a an a p p r o p r i a t e SPF v a l u e . The cream has h i g h g l o s s and e x c e l l e n t s k i n f e e l . O i l Phase: 6.0% Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, K o s t e r Keunen) E l e f a c I 205 ( B e r n e l ) 1.4% Glycerol Monostearate (Henkel) 1.4% I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) 2.0% C e r e s i n e 130/135 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1.3% P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) 0.2% Squalane (Centerchem) 1.8% J o j o b a o i l ( J o j o b a Growers) 1 .O% Liquapar (Sutton) 0.4% Neo H e l i o p a n AV (H&R) 5.0% V i t a m i n E (BASF) 1 .O% Octyl Palmitate (Inolex) 2.5% Shea B u t t e r ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2 * 5% I s o s t e a r i c a c i d (Unichema) 3 .O% L i p o p e g 100-S ( L i p o ) 1.5% S i l i c o n y l Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 3.0% E m u l s i f y i n g Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1.7% H e x a n e d i o l Behenyl Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 .O% Gamma O r z a n o l ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 .O% Water Phase: 44.3% Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d ) Butylene G l y c o l (Hoechst) 3.0% Sodium B o r a t e ( B o r a x ) 0.8% M e t h y l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) 0.3% A l o e Vera Gel 1:l ( A c t i v e O r g a n i c s ) 3.0% G l y c e r i n 99% 4.0% K e l t r o l TF ( K e l c o ) 0.3% Water Phase 11: TEA 99% (Dow) 1 .O% D . I. Water 5.0% A c t i v e Phase: 1.0% S i l i c o n e 245 (Dow) Phenoni p ( N i p a ) 0.5% Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r phase t o 8OC u n d e r a g i t a t i o n e n s u r i n g t h a t t h e e n t i r e phase i s s o l u b i l i z e d . M e l t and m i x t h e o i l phase t o 8 2 C i s m a i n t a i n e d . A t t h e l a s t m i n u t e added t h e gamma o r z a n o l t o t h e o i l phase, a l l o w t o d i s p e r s e t h e n s l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase w h i l e m i x i n g . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 45C and add t h e s i l i c o n e and t h e p h e n o n i p . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : I t i s easy t o a l t e r t h e s u n s c r e e n t o s u i t y o u r p r e f e r e n c e , w i t h o u t c h a n g i n g t h e c o n s i s t e n c y The emu1 s i on v i s c o s i t y c a n e a s i l y be a l t e r e d b y c h a n g i n g t h e o i l a n d / o r wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n . Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) c a n be added t o n a t u r a l l y enhance t h e SPF. SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s I
442
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Tanning Accelerator P a r t s by Wei q h t 500.0 2.0
Part A: Water Carbomer 934 Part 0 : Rosswax 1824 Rosswax 2540 GMS-SE Ross J o j o b a O i l ' E s c a l o l 507 Coconut O i l #76 Uni p e r t a n P-24
15.0 6.0 6.0 4.0 12.0 25.0 3.0
Part C: Germaben I 1
6.0
P a r t D: Fragrance
q.s.
P a r t E: 4.5
T r i e t h a n o l ami ne
Procedure: I n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e h e a t t h e w a t e r and add t h e Carbomer 934 u n t i l f u l l y d i s p e r s e d under a g i t a t i o n . I n a s e p a r a t e steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t t h e O i l Phase. When f u l l y m e l t e d , add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Water Phase under a g i t a t i o n . Then add t h e Germaben 1 1 , t h e n t h e f r a g r a n c e and f i n a l l y add t h e TEA w i t h h i g h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l smooth. Cool t o 130F and package. Sun Screen Stick Ingredients: Ross W h i t e B l e a c h e d Beeswax Ross P u r e R e f i n e d C a n d e l i l l a Wax Ross Pure # 1 Y e l l o w Carnauba Wax Petrolatum IPM M i n e r a l O i l 60/70 Ross J o j o b a O i 1 Amerscreen P
%
20.0 16.1 4.0 16.1 10.0 32.6 1.2
9.S.
Procedure: Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e t o 170F under a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y mixed c o o l t o 145F and package. ( N o t e : Capping may be n e c e s s a r y ) .
SOURCE: F r a n k 0 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products
443
Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof Sunscreen SPF 12 (Tested) Dermacryl 79 p r o v i d e s w a t e r r e s i s t a n c e , i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e p r o t e c t i o n and r u b - o f f r e s i s t a n c e . Incaredients: Phase A: Ceraphyl I C A F i n s o l v TN Emersol 132 M y r j 52s A b i l 88852 Cetyl Alcohol C e r a s y n t SD Armeen DM 18D Dermacryl-79 T i o v e i l FIN Phase 8: D e i o n i zed Water Carbomer 941 (2% Aq. S o l n ) Methylparaben Propylparaben T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)
%
w/w 7.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 1 .oo 1 .OD 0.50 2.00 2.00
10.00 59.30 10.00 0.15 0.10 0.80
Phase C: Germall II
0.15
Phase D: Fragrance
Q.S.
Procedure: Combine Phase B and h e a t t o 8OC. I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l combine Phase A e x c e p t f o r D e r m a c r y l - 7 9 and T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e and h e a t t o 8OC. S l o w l y s i f t i n D e r m a c r y l - 7 9 w i t h c o n s t a n t s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Add T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e w i t h c o n s t a n t s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . Add Phase A t o Phase B a t 8OC and m i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 40C and add Phase C and Phase D, homogenize, c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and package.
SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co.:
Formula 7023-24A
444
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Ultra Violet Absorbing Sunscreen
Veegum U l t r a , magnesium aluminum s i l i c a t e , i s used t o t h i c k e n and s t a b i l i z e t h i s s u n s c r e e n e m u l s i o n . Two u l t r a v i o l e t a b s o r b e r s a r e used t o a c h i e v e an e s t i m a t e d SPF (Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r ) o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 1 5 . T h i s smooth, f l o w a b l e l o t i o n s p r e a d s e a s i l y and d r i e s q u i c k l y , l e a v i n g n o n - t a c k y after-feel. Ingredient: A Veegum U l t r a (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e ) Dei o n i zed Water Glycerin B
PEG-I50 D i s t e a r a t e D i o c t y l Mal a t e * Mineral O i l C e t y l A1 coho1 Benzophenone-3 O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA Steareth-2 Steareth-20
C
Preservative, Fragrance
% bv W t .
1.50 70.50 5.50
3.00 2.00 4.00 0.50 3.00 7.00 0.90 2.10 9,s.
*Ceraphyl 45 Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r t o 5 5 C . S l o w l y add Veegum U l t r a t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a t 700 rpm. I n c r e a s e t h e m i x e r speed t o 1500-1700 rpm and m i x f o r 3 0 m i n u t e s , m a i n t a i n i n g t e m p e r a t u r e a t 55C. Add g l y c e r i n and m i x f o r 5 m i n u t e s . M i x B i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 60C. Add B t o A w h i l e m i x i n g a t 15001700 r p m . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 30 m i n u t e s . A v o i d a i r e n t r a p m e n t . Slow m i x i n g speed t o 1000 rpm and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 35C. Add C and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Package. Product C h a r a c t e r t i s t i c s : V i scosi t y : 5000-6000 cps pH: 5 . 0 + - 0 . 2 Comments: T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o s e r v e as a g u i d e f o r t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones. SOURCE: R.T. V a n d e r b i l t Co.,
I n c . : Formula
No. 4 4 8
Sun Care Products
445
Un-Buffered Self Tanning Cream R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a s o f t cream t h a t c o u l d be d i s p e n s e d f r o m a f l e x i b l e t u b e o r a j a r . The f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s 5% D i h y d r o x y a c e t o n e (DHA) as t h e s e l f t a n n i n g i n g r e d i e n t . The f o r m u l a t i o n c o n t a i n s no amines t o r e a c t w i t h D i h y d r o x y a c e t o n e . The f o r m u l a t i o n a p p l i e s e a s i l y and e v e n l y and f o r m s a m o d e r a t e l y t h i c k f i l m a l l o w i n g maximum t a n c o l o r d e v e l o p m e n t . The f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t s h o u l d be s t o r e d away f r o m l i g h t and a t t e m p e r a t u r e c o n d i t i o n s below 40C t o p r e v e n t DHA f r o m d e g r a d i n g . A.
D e i o n i z e d Water M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d M) 2,4-Dichlorobenzyl Alcohol P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP
63.10 0.20 0.20 1-00
( M y a c i d e SP)
8 . H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( C e l l o s i z e QP-15,OOOH)
0.40
6.00 C . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 501) 3 . 0 0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e x o l GT-865) 4.00 I s o b u t y l S t e a r a t e ( L e x o l BS) 2 -00 P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( L e x g a r d P) 0.10 5.00 15.00
D . Dihydroxyacetone
D e i o n i z e d Water
Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A" h e a t i n g t o 75-80C. Use a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r for agitation. I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed 2 . S p r i n k l e s e c t i o n "BI1 i n t o s e c t i o n " A " . t o c r e a t e a v o r t e x d u r i n g a d d i t i o n , then slow t o highest speed w h i c h does n o t p r o d u c e a v o r t e x . 3 . Combine s e c t i o n "C". Heat t o 80-85C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s s l o w m i x i ng. 4 . When s e c t i o n s "AB" and "C" a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g n a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s add s e c t i o n 'rC9t t o s e c t i o n s " A B " . I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed t o a h i g h speed. B e g i n c o o l i n g . Slow m i x i n g speed t o h i g h e s t speed p o s s i b l e t h a t w i l l n o t cause v o r t e x i n g . 5 . U s i n g g l o v e s , combine s e c t i o n "D" and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . 6 . Add s e c t i o n IIDq' t o s e c t i o n s "ABC" a t 35-40C. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g . 7 . A t 33-35C a d j u s t f o r w a t e r l o s s . 8 . M i x b a t c h u n t i l i t r e a c h e s 30. Physical Properties: V i s c o s i t y : 20,000 cPs @ 25C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, 24 h o u r sample pH: 5.0 @ 24C
TA I3 10 rpm)
SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co.: F o r m u l a t i o n 398-105-2
446
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Waterproof Sun Protection Lotion (with 8% Titanium Dioxide) SPF 15
w
Inqredients: Phase A : C e t y l Dimethicone Copolyol (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5.0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 12.0 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l B 8839) 8.0 C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) 3.0 0.5 Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 ine Wax 1.o Mineral O i l 2.0 Phase 0 : Titanium Dioxide 8.0 Phase C : Water 60.0 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.5 Phase D : Fragrance, Preservatives Q.S. 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . Heat t o 80C t o m e l t and d i s p e r s e t h e waxes. Cool t o 60C. 2 . Add t h e T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e . D i s p e r s e and m i l l t h e p i g m e n t . Cool t o 50C. 3 . M i x Phase C . Heat t o 50C. Add t o Phase A/B s l o w l y w i t h l o w e n e r g y s t i r r e r . M a i n t a i n a m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s . 4 . Cool t o 35C. Add Phase D . Homogenize. W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF 22
w
Ingredients: Phase A : C e t y l Dimethicone Copolyol (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5.0 C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1.o O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 1. o O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 5.1 Mineral O i l 1.5 Beeswax 1.2 0.8 Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l Phase 0 : O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 5.0 5.0 Titanium Dioxide C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 B 8839) 4.4 Phase C : Water 69.2 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.8 Q.S. Preservatives 1 . Heat Phase A t o 85C t o m e l t and d i s p e r s e waxes. 2 . Cool Phase A t o SOC. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w energy m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s . 3 . R o l l e r m i l l t o reduce p a r t i c l e s i z e o f T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e . 4. Cool t o 50C. 5 . Heat Phase C t o 50C. Add Phase C w h i l e m i x i n g . 6 . Cool t o 35C and homogenize. SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Formulas BJS-1-45/GRH-2-37
Sun Care Products
447
Waterproof Sunscreen Gel (Tested SPF 30) D e r m a c r y l LT p r o v i d e s w a t e r r e s i s t a n c e , i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e p r o t e c t i o n and r u b - o f f r e s i s t a n c e as w e l l as i m p r o v e d r u b - i n properties.
%w/w
Insredients: Anhydrous E t h a n o l K l u c e l MF Dermacryl-79 F i n s o l v TN Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d A b i l 88852 Neo H e l i o p a n Type AV Neo H e l i o p a n Type OS Neo H e l i o p a n Type BB
65.50 1 .oo 1 .oo 10.00 3.00 1.00 7.50 5.00 6.00
Procedure: D i s s o l v e H y d r o x y p r o p y l C e l l u l o s e i n SD A l c o h o l 40. When c o m p l e t e , s l o w l y s i f t i n D e r m a c r y l - 7 9 . Combine r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , t h e n add t o a l c o h o l m i x t u r e . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Formula 7761-133 Waterproof Sunscreen Spray Mist SPF 16 ( T e s t e d ) D e r m a c r y l LT p r o v i d e s w a t e r r e s i s t a n c e , p r o t e c t i o n and r u b - o f f r e s i s t a n c e .
increased moisture
Inaredients: Phase A: Anhydrous E t h a n o l D e i o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) Dermacryl-79
64.20 5.00 0.30 1 .oo
Phase B: Neo He1 i o p a n AV Neo H e l i o p a n BB Neo H e l i o p a n MA DC 344 F l u i d F i n s o l v TN Vitamin E Acetate
7.50 3.00 3.50 5.00 10.00 0.50
Phase C: Fragrance
Q.S.
Procedure: Combine Phase A e x c e p t D e r m a c r y l - 7 9 . S l o w l y s i f t i n Dermac r y l - 7 9 . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e . Add Phase 8. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e . Add Phase C . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e and package. F o r m u l a 7172-44 SOURCE: N a t f o n a l S t a r c h and Chemfcal Co.:
Suggested Formulas
448
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Waterproof Sunscreen W/O Emulsion SPF 22 (Static) SPF 21 ( W a t e r p r o o f )
%w/w Ingredients: Phase A : C e t y l D i m e t h i cone Copol yo1 ( a n d ) Pol y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 4.0 C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) 2.0 0.5 Hydrogenated Castor O i l M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 ine Wax 0.5 Benzophenone-3 2.0 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 3.0 1.o Sesame O i l I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) 3.0 4.0 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l B 8839) O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 3.0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 2.5 Phase B : Water 73.4 0.5 Sodium C h l o r i d e P o l y q u a t e r n i um-1 0 0.3 0.3 Germaben I 1 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 8OC t o i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2. Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w energy m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s . 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4 . Homogenize. Waterproof Sunscreen W/O-Emulsion SPF 15 %w/w Ingredients: Phase A : Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 4.0 C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1.o P o l y e t h y l ene Wax 0.5 0.5 Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l O c t y l M e t h o x y c i nnamate 3.0 1.o Sesame O i l I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) 2.0 4.0 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l B 8839) O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 3.0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 2.5 1.o I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (Tegosoft M) C12-15 A1 k y l Benzoate 2.5 Phase B: Water 73.9 0.5 Sodium C h l o r i d e P o l y q u a t e r n i urn-1 0 0.3 0.3 Germaben I 1 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C t o i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add 8 t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w energy m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s . 3 . . C o o l t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4. Homogenize. SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Formulas BAM-2-l/BAM-2-15
Sun Care Products
Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion Base SPF 3.5 Inaredients: ?&& Phase A: C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 5.0 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) Mineral O i l 5.0 6.0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l B 8839) 4.0 1.o C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e g o s o f t M) 4.0 0.8 Hydrogenated Castor O i l M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1.2 Phase 8 : Water 72.2 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.8 Preservatives Q.S Phase C: Fragrance Q.S Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C t o i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w e n e r g y m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s . 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4. Homogeni ze. F o r m u l a t i o n BJS-1-47 Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion Base SPF 3.7 I n a r e d ients: Phase A: C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 Isos t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5.0 5.4 Mineral O i l O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 6.4 4.3 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l B 8839) 1.o C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e g o s o f t M) 4.3 0.8 Hydrogenated Castor O i l M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1.2 Phase 8 : Water 70.8 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.8 Preservatives Q.S Phase C : Fragrance Q.S Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C t o i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w e n e r g y m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i 1 k y appearance a t a1 1 t i m e s . 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4 . Homogenize. F o r m u l a t i o n BJS-1-15 SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
449
450
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF 21 Inciredi e n t s : Phase A : C e t y l Dimethicone Copolyol (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5.0 Mineral O i l 5.3 O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 4.2 4.2 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l B 8839) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e g o s o f t M) 4.2 2.0 Almond O i 1 0.8 Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1.2 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 3.0 Phase B: Water 69.3 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.8 Preservatives Q.S. Phase C : Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 8OC t o i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w energy m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s . 3. Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4. Homogeni ze. Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF 15
I ng r e d i e n t s : Phase A : C e t y l D i m e t h i cone Copol yo1 ( A b i 1 EM-90) 2.0 5.9 Mineral O i l O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 4.7 4.7 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l B 8839) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1.o I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e g o s o f t M) 4.7 2.0 Almond O i 1 Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l 0.8 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1.2 3.0 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate Phase B : Water 69.2 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.8 Preservatives Q.S. Phase C : Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 8OC t o i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w energy m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s . 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4 . Homogenize. SOURCE: Goldschmi d t Chemical Corp. : Formulas BJS-1-35/BJS-1-53
Sun Care Products
451
Waterproof W/O Sun Protection Lotion SPF 1 7 Ingredients: Phase A : C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l EM-90) 2.0 4.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( T e g o s o f t CT) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 5.5 Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l 0.4 S y n t h e t i c Wax o r Beeswax 0.6 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l B 8839) 7.0 C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1.o O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 5.0 1.5 Benzophenone-3 Menthyl A n t h r a n i l a t e 3.0 Phase B : Water 73.9 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.6 Q.S. Preservatives Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C t o i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2 . Heat Phase 6 t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w energy m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s . 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4 . Homoaeni - ze, Waterproof Sun Protection Lotion (with 8% Titanium Dioxide) SPF 12 Ingredients: %w/w Phase A : C e t y l D i m e t h i cone Copol yo1 ( A b i 1 EM-90) 2.0 13.6 O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l B 8839) 9.1 C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) 3.0 0.5 Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 in e Wax 1.o Mineral O i l 2.3 Phase B: Titanium Dioxide 8.0 Phase C : Water 60.0 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.5 Phase D : Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . Heat t o 80C t o m e l t and d i s p e r s e t h e waxes. Cool t o 60C. 2 . Add t h e T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e . D i s p e r s e and m i l l t h e p i g m e n t . Cool t o 50C. 3 . M i x Phase C . Heat t o 50C. Add t o Phase A / B s l o w l y w i t h l o w energy s t i r r e r . M a i n t a i n a m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s . 4 . Cool t o 35C. Add Phase D . Homogenize.
SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Formula BJS-1-43/BJS-1-33
452
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Water Resistant Sunscreen A
% B y Weiqht 1 .o
Veegum P r o Water
83.2
B
Glycerin Triethanolamine
1.5 0.6
C
Amerscreen P Cetyl alcohol S t e a r i c a c i d XXX SS4267 F l u i d I s o p r o p y l myri s t a t e Synchrowax AW1 C C e r a s y n t MN
4.0
Preservative
q.s.
0.8 2.0 4.0
2.0 0.4 0.5
Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r t o 70 t o 75C, t h e n s l o w l y add t h e Veegum PRO w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r . M i x u n t i l smooth. Add B t o A w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n u n t i l smooth. M a i n t a i n A/B a t 7 0 t o 75C; h e a t C t o 70 t o 75C. Add C t o A / B and m i x u n t i l cool. Consi s t e n c y : Medi um v i s c o s i t y 1o t i o n . Suggested P a c k a g i n g : Squeeze o r pump b o t t l e s . Comments: Veegum PRO e f f e c t i v e l y s t a b i l i z e s t h e e m u l s i o n even a t e l e v a t e d t e m p e r a t u r e s . T h i s l o t i o n , u s i n g s i l i c o n e f l u i d t o p r o v i d e an e m o l l i e n t w a t e r r e s i s t a n t p r o t e c t i v e b a r r i e r , i m p a r t s a n o n - g r e a s y f e e l . The Amerscreen P a t 4% p r o v i d e s an e s t i m a t e d Sun P r o t e c t i o n f a c t o r o f 8 . SOURCE: R . T .
Vanderbilt Co.,
I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n N o . 418
Sun Care Products
453
Water Resistant Sunscreen R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a v i s c o u s sunscreen l o t i o n d i s p e n s e d f r o m a f l e x i b l e t u b e o r s o f t b o t t l e . The e x h i b i t s e x c e p t i o n a l w a t e r r e s i s t a n c e w h i c h i s con Lexorez 1 0 0 . The f o r m u l a a p p l i e s e a s i l y and l e a v e s f i l m on t h e s k i n . The sunscreen a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t Methoxycinnamate. The SPF v a l u e o f t h e f o r m u l a t i o n
w h i c h can be formulation r i b u t e d by a non-greasy s Octyl i s unknown.
&& ! A.
D e i o n i z e d Water P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP Methylparaben (Lexgard M ) T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA (Hamp-ene Ma4)
8 . Carbomer (Carbopol
ETD 2055)
71 .45 7.50 0.20 0.05 0.15
OS
C . Sodium H y d r o x i d e (10% w/w)
4.00 D . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 1 - 0 0 0.50 C e t y l A l c o h o l NF Aluminum S t a r c h O c t e n y l s u c c i n a t e ( D r y Flo-PC) 1-00 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( L e x o l GT-865) 3.00 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (and) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e 1-00 ( a n d ) I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e ( L e x o l 3975) 0.05 T o c o p h e r o l ( C o p h e r o l F-1300) 0.10 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) O c t y l M e t h o x y c i nnamate ( E s c a l o l 557) 8.00 G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer 2 * 00 ( L e x o r e z 100) Procedure: 1 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n phase " A " and h e a t t o 75-8OC. A g i t a t e a t l o w speed. 2 . S l o w l y add phase "B" t o phase " A " . A g i t a t e a t a h i g h e r speed u n t i l a l l Carbomer i s f u l l y d i s p e r s e d . 3 . Combine phase "D" i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l and h e a t t o 80-85C. Add phase "0" t o phase "AB". M i x f o r f i v e m i n u t e s and s t a r t t o cool. 4 . A t 45C a d j u s t f o r w a t e r l o s s . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. Then a d j u s t f o r v i s c o s i t y u s i n g 10% NaOH (9,500t-500 c p s u s i n g s p i n d l e # 6 @ 50rpm, 25C). The f i n a l p r o d u c t has a pH o f approximately 6.0.
SOURCE:
I n o l e x Chemical Co.:
F o r m u l a t i o n 383-208
454
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W/O SPF15 Sunscreen with Ajidew and Eldew I n g r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: %_by W e i g h t Part A: D i - (Chol e s t e r y l , b e h e n y l , o c t y l d o d e c y l ) 2.00 N - L a u r o y l - L - g l u t a m i c a c i d e s t e r / E l d e w CL-301 10.00 O c t y l d o d e c y l N e o p e n t a n o a t e / E l e f a c 1-205 0.50 D i m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) T r i m e t h y l s i l o x y s i 1 i c a t e / D o w C o r n i n g 593 0.05 Propylparaben 0.15 Methylparaben 0.60 P h e n o x y e t h a n o l / E m e r e s s e n c e 1160 4.00 Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 7.50 O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e / P a r s o l MCX P a r t 8: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone 5.00 Copol yo1 ( a n d ) Hexyl L a u r a t e / A b i 1 WE09 Part C: 61.40 D e i o n i z e d Water 0.80 Sodium C h l o r i d e 1 .oo Sodi urn P C A / A j idew N-50 2.00 P a r t i a l l y D e a c e t y l a t e d C h i t i n ( 1 .O%)/Marine Dew 5.00 Propylene Glycol Procedure : P r e - m e l t p a r t A a t 50 degrees C e n t i g r a d e . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . Premix p a r t C u n t i l homogeneous. S l o w l y add p a r t C i n t o p a r t A and B m i x t u r e w i t h h i g h s h e a r m i x i n g . Appearance: W h i t e , smooth, s h i n y l o t i o n . pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 10,000-20,000 (RVT#6 I3 lOrpm @ 25 d e g r e e s C) Sunscreen Lip Balm with Eldew % b y Weiqht I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: Carnauba/Carnauba Wax #1 Y e l l o w 4.00 O z o k e r i t e / O z o k e r i t e Wax JH1680 4.00 S y n t h e t i c B e e s w a x / S y n t h e t i c Beeswax JH-1508 10.00 Propylparaben 0.15 Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl L a u r o y l G l u t a m a t e / Eldew CL-301 10.00 P a r t B: 26.55 Castor O i l PPG-3 Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l / H e t e s t e r HCP 15.00 15.00 G l y c e r y l T r i a c e t y l H y d r o x y s t e a r a t e / H e t e s t e r HCA 7.50 O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e / P a r s o l MCX Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 5.00 2.00 O c t y l Sal ic y 1 a t e / U v i n u l 0-1 8 Tocopheryl A cet ate/Vi ta mi n E Ac e ta te 0.60 P a r t C: B i sabolol (Synthetic) 0.20 Procedure: Heat P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 80 degrees C e n t i g r a d e . M i x u n t i l a l l s o l i d s a r e c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 65 degrees C e n t i g r a d e . Add P a r t C . Mix w e l l . F i l l . SOURCE: Ajinornoto USA, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products
455
W/O SPF 15 Sunscreen with Ajidew and Eldew % by W e i a I n a r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: Part A: O i ( C h o l e s t e r y l , behenyl, o c t y l d e d e c y l ) N-Lauroyl -L2.00 g l u t a m i c a c i d e s t e r / E l d e w CL-301 10.00 O c t y l d o d e c y l N e o p e n t a n o a t e / E l e f a c 1-205 Oimethicone(and)Trimethylsiloxysilicate/Qow C o r n i n g 5 9 3 0.50 0.05 Propylparaben 0.15 Methylparaben 0.60 Phenoxyethanol/Emeressence 1 160 4.00 Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 7.50 O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e / P a r s o l MCX
P a r t B: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Oimethicone C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) Hexyl L a u r a t e / A b i l WE09 Part C: D e i o n i z e d Water Sodium C h l o r i d e Sodium PCA/Ajidew N-50 P a r t i a l l y Q e a c e t y l a t e d C h i t i n ( 1 .O%)/Marine Dew P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l
5.00 61.40 0.80 1 .oo 2.00 5.00
Procedure: P r e - m e l t p a r t A a t 50 degrees C e n t i g r a d e . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . Premix p a r t C u n t i l homogeneous. S l o w l y add p a r t C i n t o p a r t A and B m i x t u r e w i t h h i g h s h e a r m i x i n g . Appearance: W h i t e , smooth, s h i n y l o t i o n pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 10,000-20,000 (RVT #6 @ 10 rpm @ 25 degrees C ) Procedure: Heat P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 80 degrees C e n t i g r a d e . Mix u n t i l a l l s o l i d s a r e c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 65 degrees C e n t i g r a d e . Add P a r t C . Mix w e l l . F i l l .
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
456
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W/O Sunscreen Lotion
SPF-18 Insredients: %w/w Phase A : C e t y l Dimethicone Copolyol (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5.0 C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1. o O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 4.5 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) 3.0 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l B 8839) 5.5 0.4 Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l S y n t h e t i c Wax 0.6 5.0 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 1.5 Benzophenone-3 Menthyl A n t h r a n i l a t e 3.0 Phase B : Water 69.7 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.8 Q.S P r e s e r v a t i ves Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 85C t o i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w energy m i x e r , M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s . 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4 . Homogenize. Formula GRH-2-31 W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF-17
Insredients: %w/w Phase A : C e t y l D i m e t h i cone Copol yo1 ( a n d ) Pol y g l y c e r y l - 4 5.0 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9814) 3.0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g o s o f t OS) 12.0 8.0 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l 8 8839) Mineral O i l 2.0 0.5 Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1.o Phase B : T i t a n ; um D i o x i d e 8.0 Phase C : Water 59.7 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.8 Q.S Preservatives Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A t o 85C t o m e l t and d i s p e r s e waxes. 2 . Cool Phase A t o 50C. Add 8 t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w e n e r g y m i x e r , M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s . 3 . R o l l e r m i l l t o reduce p a r t i c l e s i z e o f T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e . 4 . Cool t o 50C. 5 . Heat Phase C t o 50C. Add Phase C w h i l e m i x i n g . 6 . Cool t o 35C and homogenize. Formula GRH-2-33 SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Section XII Miscellaneous
457
458
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Aloe Medicated Gel With Alcohol (SDA 39C) Formula: 1-Menthol SDA 39C Tween 60 Aloe Moist
% 6.00 8.00 3.00 83.00
Per 20009 120.00 160.00 60.00 1660.00
P r o c e d u r e ( W i t h a l c o h o l , SDA 39C): 1 . Add A l o e M o i s t t o l a r g e b e a k e r . F i t w i t h s t i r r e r . 2 . I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , m i x t h e m e n t h o l , a l c o h o l and Tween and s t i r u n t i l c l e a r . 3. W i t h slow-medium a g i t a t i o n add t h e m i x t u r e t o t h e A l o e M o i s t 4. S t i r u n t i l a m i l k y w h i t e and homogeneous. 5 . F i l l i n t o HDPE j a r s . Aloe Medicated Gel Without Alcohol Formula: 1 -Menthol Tween 60 Aloe Moist 3% C a r b o p o l 940
%
3.00 12.00 79.70 5.00 0.30
TEA FDC Y e l l o w #5,
FDC B l u e #1,
1% 1%
qs qs
Per 759 2.259 9 . oog 59.789 3.759 0.2259 2 drops 2 drops
Procedure (Without a l c o h o l ) : 1 . M i x 1-menthol and Tween 60 t o g e t h e r and h e a t t o a b o u t 45C. 2 . Heat A l o e M o i s t t o 55-58C add c o l o r s . 3 . Add t h e menthol/Tween m i x t o t h e A l o e M o i s t w i t h s t i r r i n g . 4 . Add t h e 3% C a r b o p o l 940 and m i x w e l l . 5 . Add t h e TEA and m i x w e l l , 6 . Cool t o room temp w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n .
-
SOURCE: T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Miscellaneous
459
Cetylpyridinium Chloride Mouthwash
w
I n a r e d ients: A C e t y l p y r i d i n i u m c h l o r i d e , NF C i t r i c A c i d , USP P e p p e r m i n t o i 1, USP E u c a l y p t u s o i 1 , NF C l o v e o i l , USP Tween 60 A l c o h o l , USP
0.30 10.00
B *Color Sorbo, S o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n , Water, d e i o n i z e d
20.00 69.36
USP
0.10 0.10 0.07 0.02
0.05
* q . s . these i n g r e d i e n t s . Procedure: D i s s o l v e t h e c e t y l p y r i d i n i u m c h l o r i d e and c i t r i c a c i d i n w a t e r . Add t h e p e p p e r m i n t o i l , e u c a l y p t u s o i l and c l o v e o i l t o t h e Tween 20. Add t h e a l c o h o l s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n and add t h e w a t e r m i x t u r e . Add t h e Sorbo, w a t e r and c o l o r t o make t h e d e s i r e d volume. Spearmint Mouthwash Innredients: A Tween 60, p o l y s o r b a t e 60 Spearmi n t f 1a v o r o i 1
w 0.32 0.24
6
Arlasolve DMI E t h a n o l (190 p r o o f )
10.00 10.00
C
Water Sodi um s a c c h a r i n USP Sodi um b e n z o a t e
69.14
Sorbo,
10.00
D
0.10 0.20
70% s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n
Procedure: M i x (A) w e l l . M i x ( B ) w e l l . Add (B) t o ( A ) , m i x w e l l . M i x ( C ) w e l l . Add ( D ) t o ( C ) , m i x w e l l . Add (CD) t o (AB) and m i x w e l l . Formula PC 8207
SOURCE: IC1
Surfactants:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
460
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Clear Gel without DEA T h i s f o r m u l a c o n t a i n s no d i e t h a n o l a m i n e , y e t i s a b l e t o p r o d u c e a m i c r o e m u l s i o n g e l w h i c h e x h i b i t s c l a r i t y and possesses a manageable s e t p o i n t (80C), u s i n g p o t a s s i u m h y d r o x i d e i n p l a c e o f t h e DEA. Lower e t h o x y l a t e s l i k e t h e Volpos and C r o d a f o s e s used here are t h e e m u l s i f i e r s o f choice f o r c l e a r gel formulations, s i nce l e s s e t h o x y l a t e d m a t e r i a1 s have been shown t o cause l e s s i r r i t a t i o n . The p o w e r f u l e m u l s i f y i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e s e e s t e r s y i e l d an e x t r e m e l y e f f i c i e n t system i n w h i c h a 1 : l r a t i o o f a b a l a n c e t h a t minime m u 1 s i f i e r : o i l c o n c e n t r a t i o n i s achieved i z e s i r r i t a t i o n p o t e n t i a l and o p t i m i z e s g e l f o r m a t i o n . % Innredients: P a r t A: Dei o n i zed Water 52.6 Propylene Glycol 12.0 P a r t 8: 7.0 Volpo 3 ( O l e t h - 3 ) 4.0 Volpo 5 ( Ol e th- 5) C r o d a f o s N3A ( O l e t h - 3 Phosphate) 2.0 C r o d a f o s N l O A ( O l e t h - 1 0 Phosphate) 4.0 M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) 17.0 P a r t C: KOH (25% Aq. S o l n . ) 1.4 Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 90-Q5C. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 90-95C. Add P a r t C t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Add P a r t A/C t o P a r t 0 w i t h m i x i n g u s i n g a p r o p e l l e r b l a d e m i x e r . A v o i d a e r a t i o n as much as p o s s i b l e . Cool t o d e s i r e d f i 11 t e m p e r a t u r e , c o o l i n g a t a P C / m i n r a t e . Set p o i n t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Emu1sifier:Oil Ratio: 1 : l Set P o i n t : 80C Formula CG-25
-
Silicone Emulsion T h i s p r o d u c t uese I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS t o f o r m a s t a b l e e m u l s i o n ( 1 month @ 50C), s p e c i f i c a l l y w i t h F l u i d 200 (200 c s ) but also suitable f o r other silicone f l u i d s , f o r V o l a t i l e S i 1 icone and d i m e t h i cone Inaredients: % P a r t A: Dei o n i zed Water 72.0 I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS (Behentrimoniurn M e t h o s u l f a t e (and) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 7.0 S i 1 icone F1 u i d (2OOcps) 20.0 Part 0: Germaben I 1 1 .o Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 80-85C. Cool t o 40C w i t h m i x i n g and add P a r t B. Cool w i t h m i x i n g t o d e s i r e d f i 11 t e m p e r a t u r e . Formula SC-231 SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s I
Miscellaneous
461
Clear Ringing Gel Inaredients: A M i n e r a l o i 1, C a r n a t i o n b r a n d B r i j 93 A r l a s o l ve 200L B
5.00 7.00 43.20
Propylene g l y c o l Sorbo Water, d e i o n i z e d
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 9OC moderate s t i r r i n g . the mixture cools. pour i n t o tubes o r
w
11 . o o 6.00 27.80
and (E) t o 95C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) w i t h Remove f r o m h e a t and c o n t i n u e t o s t i r as When t h e m i x t u r e t u r n s c l e a r ( a b o u t 65C) jars. Clear Ringing Gel
Inaredi ents: A Arlamol E M i n e r a l o i 1, C a r n a t i o n b r a n d
B r i j 93 B
w 5.00 6.00 6.00
A r l a s o l v e 200L
27.80
Propylene g l y c o l Sorbo Water, d e i o n i z e d
5.00 7.00 43.20
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 9OC and ( 6 ) t o 95C. Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . Remove f r o m h e a t and c o n t i n u e t o s t i r as t h e m i x t u r e c o o l s . When t h e m i x t u r e t u r n s c l e a r ( a b o u t 65C) p o u r i n t o t u b e s or jars. Formula PC 8180 Clear Gel Base Inaredients: A r l as o l ve DMI H y r o x y p r o p y l c e l l u l ose
W
W
96,OO 4.00
Procedure: Slowly s p r i n k l e t h e hydroxypropyl c e l l u l o s e i n t h e A r l a s o l v e D M I as you r a p i d l y a g i t a t e . S t i r u n t i l c l e a r . A g e l w i l l f o r m upon s t a n d i n g . Gel s t r e n g t h v a r i e s w i t h t h i c k e n e r c o n c e n t r a t i o n A c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s s h o u l d be d i s s o l v e d i n A r l a s o l v e D M I p r i o r t o a d d i t i o n o f hydroxypropyl c e l l u l o s e .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
462
Cosmetic and Toile@ Formulations
Cream Sachet
%w/w
Inaredients: A r l a c e l 165 Spermaceti Cetyl alcohol Isopropyl myristate 0 A t l a s G-2162 Water, d e i o n i zed *Preservative C Fragrance
16.00 5.00 5.00 3.00 2.00 59.00
A
10.00
q . s . these ingredients
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 75C. Heat ( € 3 ) t o 77C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate b u t t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 45C. S t i r u n t i l room t e m p e r a t u r e and package. Liquid Cologne
%w/w
Ingredients: Perfume o i l Tween 2 0 Water *Preservative *q. s . these
5.00 21 . 5 0 73,50
i ngredi ents
Procedure: M i x t h e perfume o i l and Tween 2 0 . S l o w l y add t h i s m i x t u r e t o t h e w a t e r and add p r e s e r v a t i v e . S t i r u n t i l a c l e a r p r o d u c t results.
Solid Cologne
Inqredients: S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed Sorbo A1 coho1 I SD-40 B Sodium h y d r o x i d e t o s a p o n i f y t h e 5% s t e a r i c a c i d Water, d e i o n i z e d C Perfume o i l A
5.00 2.00 83.00 5.00 5.00
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 65C and ( B ) t o 70C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 55-6OC. Pour i n t o h e a t e d m o l d s . Cool s l o w l y t o p r e v e n t f o r m a t i o n of a i r p o c k e t s and t o a c h i e v e t h e g r e a t e s t t r a n s l u c e n c y . Unmold, wrap i n f o i l and package i n a i r t i g h t containers.
SOURCE:
IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Miscellaneous
463
High-Luster Toothpaste Ingredients: P a r t A: ( 1 ) S o r b i t o l (70% s o l u t i o n ) ( 2 ) D e i o n i z e d Water P a r t 0: ( 3 ) K a o p o l i t e SF ( 4 ) D i c a l c i um Phosphate D i h y d r a t e ( 5 ) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 6 ) C a r b o x y m e t h y l C e l l u l o s e (medium v i s c o s i t y ) ( 7 ) T r i m a g n e s i um Phosphate (8) Korthix H ( 9 ) Sodi um S a c c h a r i n ( 1 0 ) M e t h y l Paraben ( 1 1 ) P r o p y l Paraben P a r t C: (12)Flavoring O i l
% bv Wei a h t
30.00 17.52 24.25 24.25 2.00 0.80 0.50 0.25 0.20 0.18 0.05 q.s.
Procedure: M i x ( 1 ) and ( 2 ) . I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , t h o r o u g h l y d r y b l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s ( 3 ) t h r o u g h ( 1 1 ) . Add P a r t 8 s l o w l y t o P a r t A . M i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add P a r t C, m i l l t w i c e and d e a e r a t e . F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used. Denture Cleaner Ingredients: ( 1 ) D e i o n i z e d Water (2) Korthix H ( 3 ) C a r b o x y m e t h y l C e l l u l o s e (medium v i s c o s i t y ) ( 4 ) S o r b i t o l (70% s o l u t i o n ) (5) Glycerin ( 6 ) Sodi urn S a c c h a r i n ( 7 ) K a o p o l i t e 1147 ( 8 ) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (9) Flavor, Preservative & Colorant
% bv Weiaht 30.8 1.5 0.5 10.0 10.0 0.2 45.0 2.0 q.s.
Procedure: M i x ( 2 ) i n t o ( 1 ) w i t h h i g h s h e a r . Add ( 3 ) and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t h i g h s h e a r u n t i l w e l l d i s p e r s e d . Reduce speed and add ( 4 ) , ( 5 1 , and ( 6 ) . S l o w l y add ( 7 ) and c o n t i n u e t o m i x u n t i l w e l l d i s p e r s e d . Then add ( 8 ) . Add ( 9 ) and m i l l t w i c e and d e a e r a t e . F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used.
SOURCE:
Kaopolfte,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
464
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hydrophilic O/W Ointment Base Ingredients: A Stearyl alcohol Petrolatum 8 Propylene g l y c o l M y r j 52 Methyl paraben & p r o p y l paraben W a t e r , d e i o n i zed Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h agitation. S t i r u n t i l set.
9gdJvJ 25.00 25.00 12.00 5.00 0.40 32.60
Emollient Anhydrous Ointment
w
Ingredients: G-1726 10.00 Arlamol E 40.00 A r l a c e l 186 50.00 Procedure: Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l l i q u i d and s t i r u n t i l room temperature. W/O Ointment Base
Ingredients: ? & b J J / Petrolatum 54.00 A r l a c e l 83, s o r b i t a n sesqu o l e a t e 6.00 Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h m o d e r a t e , b u t t h o r o u g h a g i a t i o n . S t i r u n t 1 room t e m p e r a t u r e . Washable Anhydrous Base Ingredients: 9gdJvJ Petrolatum 95.00 Tween 61 o r Tween 81 o r M y r j 52 5.00 Procedure: Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l l i q u i d and s t i r u n t i l room temperature. Washable Anhydrous Base Ingredients: H y d r o p h i l i c P e t r o l a t u m , U.S.P. 50.00 Tween 60 50.00 Procedure: Heat a1 1 i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l l i q u i d and s t i r u n t i l room temperature.
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s
Suggested Formu a t i ons
Miscellaneous
465
Jojoba Massage Oil
E
Mineral O i l Isopropyl Palmitate Coconut O i l #76 Jojoba O i l Almond O i 1 Sweet Acet u 1an Glucam P-20 Dow C o r n i ng S i 1 icone 344 Vitamin E
61.5 24.0 5.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 1 .o 2.0 0.5
Fragrance
q.s.
Procedure: Load a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e . Warm s l i g h t l y u n t i l c l e a r w i t h a g i t a t i o n , add F r a g r a n c e and package. Massage Oil %
Solulan P B 5 Dow C o r n i n g S i . l i c o n e #344 Emerest 2314 D r a k e o l #9 Coconut O i l E s c a l o l 507 Ross J o j o b a O i 1 Perfume Nova Rome DE 51
3.0 16.0 13.0 31 . O 31 .O 3.0 3.0 q.s.
Procedure: Load a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a v e s s e l . Warm s l i g h t l y u n t i l c l e a r under a g i t a t i o n and package.
SOURCE:
F r a n k 8 . Ross Co.,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
466
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Micro-Emulsions with Aloe Vera and d-Limonene The f o l 1o w i n g f o r m u l a s a r e c l e a r , m i c r o e m u l s i ons o f d - L i monene and A l o e Vera. They r e p r e s e n t t h e r a n g e o f d-Limonene and A l o e Vera c o n c e n t r a t i o n s commonly u s e d as d e g r e a s i n g s o l v e n t c l e a n e r s . These f o r m u l a s a r e g e n e r a l l y u s e d by d i l u t i n g i n w a t e r ( 1 - > 1 6 o z . / g a l l o n d e p e n d i n g on t h e u s e r e q u i r e m e n t s ) . The f o r m u l a s a r e c l e a r and e x h i b i t a b l o o m e f f e c t upon d i l u t i o n .
%w/w d - L i monene Monamul s e DL-1 273v Isopropanol Water A l o e Vera Gel ( T e r r y AG002)
10.0 18.0 10.0 42.0 20.0
d - L i monene Monamulse DL-1273 Isopropanol Water A l o e Vera Gel ( T e r r y AG002)
?&& 35.0 28.0 5.0 12.0 20.0
w 65.0
d - L i monene Monamulse DL-1273 A l o e Vera Gel ( T e r r y AG002)
23.0 12.0
Procedure: I n a l l c a s e s , m i x Monamulse DL-1273 w i t h d-Limonene u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d and o f u n i f o r m c o n s i s t e n c y . Add t h e I s o p r o p a n o l , m i x i n g u n t i l homogeneous. P r e - m i x A l o e Vera Gel w i t h w a t e r . S l o w l y add t o b a t c h w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m .
SOURCE: T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Miscellaneous
Modified Petrolatum In n r e d i e n t s : W h i t e p e t r o l a t u m USP A r l a m o l ISML, I s o s o r b i d e m o n o l a u r a t e G-695, g l y c e r o l m o n o o l e a t e
w 75.00 20.00 5.00
Procedure: Add phase (A) t o g e t h e r and s t i r w i t h s l i g h t h e a t . Add phase ( B ) and h e a t t o 8OC and s t i r i n phase ( C ) . Cool w h i l e s t i r r i n g and add phase ( D ) . Formula CP 1051 Modified Petrolatum Inaredi ents: Petrolatum, White Protopet Span 40, s o r b i t a n m o n o p a l m i t a t e A r l a t o n e G, PEG 25 h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l
w 60.00 24.00 16.00
Procedure: M e l t and m i x . Formula CP 1095 Modified Petrolatum Innredients: Petrolatum, White Protopet Span 40, s o r b i t a n m o n o p a l m i t a t e A r l a t o n e G, PEG 25 h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l
w 50.00
30.00 20.00
Procedure: M e l t and m i x Formula CP 1096 Washable Oil
w
Inqredi ents: A Arlamol E A t l a s 673500
71.40 14.30
B
B r i j 30
9.50
C
Dow C o r n i n g 344 c y c l o m e t h i c o n e
4.80
Procedure: M i x ( 8 ) w e l l , Add ( 8 ) t o (A) and m i x w e l l . Add (C) t o (AB) and m i x we1 1 Formula CP 1117
.
SOURCE:
I C 1 Surfactants:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
467
468
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Ointment Base Inqredients: A Cetyl alcohol A r l a c e l 165
7.00 5.03
B
Sorbo Water, d e i o n i zed
5.00 73.00
C
Arlasolve DMI
10.00
D
*Preservative *q.s.
these ingredients.
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 72C and (B) t o 75C. Add (8) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h good a g i t a t i o n and add (C) a t 35C and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add ( D ) . Replace w a t e r l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Package. Anhydrous Ointment Inaredients: A r l a m o l ISML, i s o s o r b i d e m o n o l a u r a t e A r l ace1 186, g l y c e r o l monool e a t e P e t r o l a t u m , P e r f e c t a USP *Perfume o r a c t i v e s
w 25.00 7.00 68.00
* q . s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Add phase (A) t o g e t h e r and s t i r w i t h s l i g h t h e a t Add phase ( 6 ) and h e a t t o 80C and s t i r i n phase ( C ) . Coo wh i e s t i r r i n g and add phase ( D ) . Zinc Oxide Ointment-Anhydrous Inqredients: A r l amol ISML, is o s o r b i de mono1 a u r a t e A r l a c e l 186, g l y c e r o l monooleate P e t r o l a t u m , P e r f e c t a USP Z i n c o x i d e , USP *Perfume o r a c t i v e s
%m
20.00 5.60 54-40 20.00
Procedure: Add phase ( A ) t o g e t h e r and s t i r w i t h s l i g h t h e a t . Add phase ( B ) and h e a t t o 80C and s t i r i n phase ( C ) . Cool w h i l e s t i r r i n g and add phase ( D ) . Formula CP 1035
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Miscellaneous
469
O/W O i n t m e n t Base Ingredients: A Petrolatum Mineral o i l Spermaceti A r l a c e l 40, s o r b i t a n m o n o p a l m i t a t e Tween 40, p o l y o x y e t h y l e n e s o r b i t a n monopalmi t a t e B Water, d e i o n i z e d *Preservative * q . s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .
*%
15.00 15.00 5.00 5.00 5.00
55.00
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat (B) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add w a t e r l o s t due t o evaporation.
O/W O i n t m e n t Base Insredi ents: A Cetyl alcohol Mineral o i l A r l ace1 80, s o r b i t a n monool e a t e Tween 80, p o l y o x y e t h y l e n e s o r b i t a n monooleate B Water d e i o n i zed *Preservative *q.s. these ingredients.
w
20.00 20.00 0.50 4.50 55.00
Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (B) t o 72C. Add (B) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add w a t e r l o s t due t o evaporation.
O/W O i n t m e n t Base Inqredients: A Stearyl alcohol Beeswax Mineral o i l A r l a c e l 80, s o r b i t a n monooleate Tween 80, p o l y o x y e t h y l e n e s o r b i t a n monooleate 0 Water, d e i o n i zed *Preservative *a. s . t h e s e in g r e d i e n t s .
15.00 5.00
15.00 1.25 3.75 60.00
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( 8 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h moderate s t r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add w a t e r l o s t due t o evaporation
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
470
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Oil-In-Water-In-Silicone Emulsion O i 1 -in - w a t e r Emu1s i on Phase: Water P a n t e t h i n e (80% a q . s o l . ) Methylparaben Carbomer 940 Glycerine Sodium a1 k y l p o l y e t h e r s u l f o n a t e Blandol Mineral O i l Cholesterol Cetyl palmitate PEG-22 d o d e c y l g l y c o l c o p o l y m e r Ethylparaben Propylparaben
61 .54% 0.10 0.20
0.10 2.50 1.25 1.75 1.oo 0.20 0.20 0.10 0.15
S i 1 icone Phase :
9.50 5.00 3.00 1.oo 2.00 7.00 0.50 2.85 0.03 0.03
Cyclomethicone/dimethicone ( 9 O : l O ) Cyclomethicone/dimethiconol ( 1 3 : 8 7 ) Cyclomethicone Phenyldimethicone P a r e t h 15-3 Octylmethoxycinnamate Benzophenone C12-15 a1 coho1 s b e n z o a t e Color Fragrance Protein-Lecithin Complex Emulsion Carnation Mineral O i 1 Protopet 1s Petrolatum Cetyl alcohol G l y c e r y l monostearate C a s e i n - l e c i t h i n complex Propylene g l y c o l Fragrance Preservative Water
45.00% 10.00 1 .50 3.00 3.00 5.00 0.50 qs qs t o 100.0
Skin Growth Accelerator
5-Methoxy-6,7-methylenedioxy-Isoflavone-4-O-B-D-gluco s i de Stearyl alcohol Lanol i n P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e monooleate G l y c e r y l monostearate P r o t o p e t 1S P e t r o l a t u m Water
5.00% 18.00 20.00 0.25 0.25 40.00 16.50
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formulations
Miscellaneous
471
Pharmaceutical Cream Base
%w/w Ingredients: Stearyl Alcohol 6.00 A r l a c e l 165 6.00 6 Sorbo, S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n USP 5.00 Water 83.00 Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat (6) t o 72C. Add (6) t o (A) w i t h a g i t a tion. S t i r u n t i l set.
A
Pharmaceutical Cream Base Ingredients: S t e a r i c Acid 10.00 Stearyl Alcohol 5.00 Tween 60 3.00 Span 60 1 .oo 6 Water 81 - 0 0 Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat (6) t o 72C. Add (6) t o (A) w i t h a g i t a tion. S t i r u n t i l set.
A
Pharmaceutical Cream Base Inqredients: A Stearic Acid 10.00 5.00 S t e a r y l A1 coho1 Corn O i l 3.00 Isopropyl Myri s t a t e 2 .oo M y r j 52 3.00 2.00 Span 60 6 Sorbo, S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n USP 5.00 Water 70.00 Procedure: Hear ( A ) t o 70C. Heat (6) t o 72C. Add (6) t o ( A ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l set. Pharmaceutical Ointment Base Inqredients : A Cetyl Alcohol Corn O i l Tween 80 Span 80 6 Water Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add (6) t o (A) w i t h tion. S t i r u n t i l set.
SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
20.00 20.00 4.50 0.50 55.00 agita-
472
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Washable Oil
?&yy
Ingredients: A r l a m o l S3 B r i j 30 Arlatone T
8 0 %00 10.00 10.00
Procedure: M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e , F o r m u l a CP 1111 Washable Oil
% U
Inqredients: Arlamol E A t l a s G73500
50.00 50.00
Procedure: M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e , F r o m u l a CP 1112 Washable Oil
w
Inqredients: A r l a m o l S3 Isopropyl palmitate B r i j 93 B r i j 30 Water
60.00 30.00 5.00 4.60 0.40
Procedure: M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a CP 1115 Washable Oil Inaredients: A Arlamol E A t l a s G73500 B B r i j 30 C Dow C o r n i n g 344 c y c l o m e t h i c o n e
Procedure: M i x (B) w e l l . Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) and m i x w e l l . Formula CP 1116
SOURCE: IC1
% f l 50.00 25.00 20.00 5.00
and m i x w e l l . Add ( C ) t o (AB)
S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Miscellaneous
473
Washable Oil
% U
I n a r e d ients: A Arlamol E
79 50
B r i j 30 Water
20.00 0.50
B
I
Procedure: M i x ( B ) we1 1 . Add (B) t o ( A ) and m i x w e l l . Formula CP 1109 Washable Oil y#fy 70.00
Insredients: A Arlamol E B
10.00 20.00
A r l a c e l 186 Arlatone T
Procedure: M i x ( 8 ) w e l l , u s i n g h e a t t o c l a r i f y t h e A r l a c e l 186. M i x (A&B) t o g e t h e r a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and s t i r w e l l . Formula CP 1110 Washable Oil y#fy 65.00 15.00
Insredients: Arlamol E A r l a c e l 186 B r i j 93
20.00
Procedure: M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . Formula CP 1113 Washable Oil
y&&
Inaredients: Arlamol E Isopropyl palmitate B r i j 93
60.00
30.00 10.00
Procedure: M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . Formula CP 1114
SOURCE:
IC1
Surfactants:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
474
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Wound Healing Accelerator Polyoxyethyleneglycol monostearate G l y c e r y l monostearate Stearic acid Behenyl a l c o h o l Blandol Mineral O i l Glyceryl trioctanoate Koj i c a c i d d i p a l m i t a t e P r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e 1,3 B u t y l e n e g l y c o l A1 1a n t o i n Water
2.00% 5.00 5.00 1.oo 1.oo 5.00 2.00 qs 5.00 0.10 qs t o 1 0 0 . 0 0
Massage Gel 2-Hexadecyl p h o s p h a t e a r g i n i n e s a l t Water Glycerin D i p r o p y l ene g l y c o l Isostearyl diglyceride Carnation Mineral O i l Cetyl alcohol Stearyl alcohol Fragrance Preservative
1.20% 3.60 14.00 8.70 36.00 35.50 0.40
0.60 9,s. 9,s.
Petrolatum Stick T h i s h i g h p e t r o l a t u m s t i c k o f f e r s t h e w e l l known b e n e f i t s o f p e t r o l a t u m i n an easy t o u s e f o r m . P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m Syncrowax HGLC Syncrowax ERCL
85.0% 12.0 3.0
Procedure: Combine t h e p e t r o l a t u m and t h e syncrowaxes. M i x w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 80C. Cool t o 65-701) and p o u r . C h i l l t h e m o l d s o r t h e c a s e s t o 40C p r i o r t o p o u r i n g .
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : P e t r o l a t u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formulations
Miscellaneous
475
W/O Ointment Base
Innredients: A Mineral o i l Beeswax Lanol i n A r l a c e l 83, s o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e B
0.70 35.20
Borax Water, d e i o n i zed *Preservative *q.s.
w 50.00 10.00 3.10 1.oo
these i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate, b u t t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l room t e m p e r a t u r e . W/O Ointment Base
Ingredients: Petrolatum Mineral o i l Beeswax A r l ace1 83, s o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e
A
B
4.00 6.00 35.00
Water, d e i o n i zed *Preservative *q.s.
w 40.00 15.00
these ingredients.
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate, b u t t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l room t e m p e r a t u r e . W/O Ointment Base In q r e d ien t s :
w
A
Petrolatum A r l a c e l 83, s o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e
54.00 6.00
B
Water, d i s t i l l e d *Preservative
40.00
*q.s.
these i n g r e d i e n t s .
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate, b u t t h o r o u g h a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l room t e m p e r a t u r e .
SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Section XIII
Trade-Named Raw Materials
4 76
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
477
SOURCE
A b i l AV20
Phenyl t r i m e t h i c o n e
Goldschmidt
A b i l 88839
Cyclomethicone
Go1 dschmi d t
A b i l B8851
D i m e t h i cone c o p o l yo1
Go1 dschmi d t
A b i l 88852
D i m e t h i cone c o p o l yo1
Goldschmidt
A b i l 89950
D i m e t h i cone p r o p y l PG b e t a i ne
Go1 dschmi d t
A b i l B88183
D i m e t h i cone c o p o l yo1
Goldschrni d t
A b i l EM-90
Cetyl dimethicone copolyol
Go1 dschmi d t
Abi 1 WE09
Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (and) C e t y l D i m e t h i cone C o p o l y o l (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e
Go1 dschmi d t
A b i l OSW12
C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) Dimethi c o n o l (and) D i m e t h i c o n e
Goldschmidt
A b i l Quat 3270
Q u a t e r n i um-80
Goldschmi d t
A b i l Quat 3272
Q u a t e r n i um-80
Go1dschmi d t
A b i l Quat 3474
Quaternium-80
Go1 dschmi d t
A b i l S201
D i m e t h i cone/Sodi um PG P r o p y l Dimethicone T h i o s u l f a t e Copolymer
Go 1d s c hm d t
A b i l Wax 2434
Stearoxy dimethicone
Go 1dsc hm d t
A b i l Wax 9800
Stearyl dimethicone
Goldschm d t
Abi 1 Wax 9801
C e t y l d m e t h i cone
Go1 dschmi d t
A b i l Wax 9809
S t e a r y l methicone
Goldschmidt
Abi 1 Wax 9814
Cetyl d methicone
Goldschmidt
Abi 1 WE-09
Go1 dschmi d t C e t y l D i m e t h i cone Copol yo1 (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Hexyl L a u r a t e
A b i l 100
D i m e t h i cone
Go1 dschmi d t
A b i l 350
Dimethicone
Go1 dschmi d t
478
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
SOURCE
Abil 500
Di methi cone
Go1 dschmi dt
Abil 1000
Dimethicone
Go1 dschmi dt
A-C Copolymer 400
Ethyl ene-vi nyl acetate copolyrnerAl1ied Si g-
A-C Copolymer 540
Copolymer
Allied Sig-
A-C Copolymer 580
Copolymer
Allied Sig-
A-C Polyethylene 9A
Polyethylene
Allied Sig-
A-C Polyethylene 617
Polyethylene
Allied Sig-
A-C Polyethy ene 617A Polyethylene
Allied Sig-
A-C Polyethy ene 617G Polyethylene
Allied Sig-
Acetol
Acetylated 1 anol in a1 cohol
Henkel
Acetol 1706
Acetylated 1 anol i n a1 cohol
Henkel
Acetul an
Acetylated lanol i n alcohol
Ame rcho 1
Acritamer 940
Carbomer 940
RITA
Acritamer 941
Carbomer 941
RITA
Acrysol ICs-I
Acrylate/Steareth-20/Meth-
Rohm&Haas
acrylate Copol ymer E1 ew
Active #4 Acuscrub 44
Scrub agent
Allied Sig-
Acuscrub 50
Scrub agent
Allied Sig-
Acylglutamate HS-11
Surfactant
Aj i nomoto
Adogen MA-108
Dimethyl stearami ne
Wi tco
Adol 52
Cetyl alcohol
Wi tco
Adol 52 NF
Cetyl alcohol
Wi tco
Adriano 0/235970
Fragrance
Aerosil R972
Fumed silica
Degus sa
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
479
SOURCE
AGI Talc
Talc
Whi t t a k e r
A j i d e w N-50
Sodium PCA
A j inomoto
A j i d e w T-50
Pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid
A j inomoto
A l c o l e c BS
S i n g l e bleached l e c i t h i n
Amer Lech
A1 c o n a t e SBR-3
Sodium p e t r o l e u m s u l f o n a t e
Witco
A l d o HMS
G1 y c e r y l m o n o s t e a r a t e
Lonza
A l d o MCT
C a p r y l ic c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e
Lonza
Alfol
Stearyl alcohol
Vista
A l k a m i d e DL 203/S
A1 k a n o l ami de
Rhone-
A l k a m i d e DC 212/S
A 1 k a n o l ami de
Rhone-
A1 kamide D I N 2 9 5 / S
A1 kano ami de
Rhone-
A1 kamide LE
A1 kano ami de
Rhone-
18
A1 kamul EGMS IC1
A1 1a n t o i n Aloe E x t r a c t
A1 oe
Terry
Aloe Moist
A1 oe
Terry
A l o e Vera 2 0 0 X
A1 oe
D r . Madis
A l o e V e r a g e l 200
A1 oe
D r . Madis
A l o e Vera Gel D e c o l o r i z e d 1 X
Terry
A l o e Vera L i q u i d
A1 oe
D r . Madis
A l o e Veragel L i p o i d
Aloe
D r . Madis
Liquid 1:l
D r . Madis
Aloe Veragel L i q u i d Concentrate 1 :40
D r . Madis
Alpine F l o r a l i s t i c
A1 p i ne
A l o e Veragel
Fragrance
480
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
SOURCE
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
A1 p i ne 165-049
Fragrance
A 1 p i ne
A l u g e l DF30
Aluminum h y d r o x i d e
Gui 1 in i
Amerchol CAB
S t e r o l emul s i f ie r / s t a b
1 iz e r
Amerchol
Amerchol H-9
Sterol emulsifier/stab l i z e r
Amerc ho 1
Amerchol L-101
M i n e r a l o i l and l a n o l i n a l c o h o l Amerchol
Amerchol 400
S t e r o l emul s i f ie r / s t a b i
Amerl a t e
I s o p r o p y l 1a n o l a t e
Amerchol
Amerlate P
Lanol in f a t t y a c i d / e s t e
Amerc ho 1
Amerscreen P
E t h y l d i h y d r o x y p r o p y l PABA
Arne r c h o 1
Amihope LL
Lauroyl l y s i n e
Ajinomoto
A m i s o f t CA
Cocoyl g l u t a m a t e
A ] inomoto
A m i s o f t CS-11
Sodium c o c o y l g l u t a m a t e
A j inomoto
A m i s o f t CT-12
TEA-Cocoyl
Ajinomoto
A m i t e r LG-OD
Di-octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate
iz e r
glutamate
Amerchol
A j inomoto A j inomoto
A m i t e r LGOD-2
A m i t e r LGS-2
D i s t e a r e t h - 2 1a u r o y l g l u t a m a t e
A j i nomoto
Ammonyx KP
Olea1 konium c h l o r i d e
Stepan
AMP
2-ami no-2-methyl -1 - p r o p a n o l
Angus
AMP-95
2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol
Angus
Amphi s o l
DEA-Cetyl
G i vaudan
phosphate
G i vaudan
Amphisol A Amphisol K
P o t a s s i u m c e t y l phosphate
G i vaudan
Ampholyt JA140
Sodium l a u r o a m p h o a c e t a t e
Huls
Amphol y t JB130
Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e
Hul s
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
481
SOURCE
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Amphomer LV-71 Amphotensi d 84
Zschi mmer
Amphotensid GB 2009
Zschi mmer
Amphotensid 9M
Z s c h i mmer
A n t a r o n V-220
ISP
A n t i l 141 L i q u i d
P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l ( a n d ) PEG-55 p r o p y l ene g l y c o o l e a t e
Goldschmidt
A n t i l 1418
PEG-55 p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l o l e a t e
Go1 dschmi d t
A n t 1 1415
PEG-55 p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l o l e a t e
Go1 dschmi d t
A n t 1 HS60
Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ( a n d ) Glyceryl Laurate
Goldschmidt
A n t 1 171
PEG-18 G l y c e r y l g l y c o l c o c o a t e / 01 e a t e
Goldschmidt
APT
Centerchem
Aquasol 104
Aloe vera g e l
CLE
A r l ace1 -C
Emul s i f y i ng a g e n t
IC1
A r l a c e l 20
Emul s i f y i ng a g e n t
IC1
A r l a c e l 40
S o r b i t a n monopalmi t a t e
IC1
A r l a c e l 60
S o r b i t a n monostearate
IC1
A r l a c e l 80
S o r b i t a n monooleate
IC1
A r l a c e l 83
S o r b i t a n sesqui o l e a t e
IC1
A r l a c e l 85
Emul s i f y i ng a g e n t
IC1
A r l a c e l 165
G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG 100 S t e a r a t e
IC1
A r l a c e l 186
G1 y c e r o l monool e a t e
IC1
A r l a c e l 481
Emul s i f y i ng a g e n t
IC1
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
482
RAW MATERIALS
SOURCE
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Arlacel 582
Emu si fyi ng agent
ic1
Arlacel 7 8 0
Emu si fyi ng agent
ic1
Arlacel 989
Emu si fyi ng agent
1c1
Arlacel 1689
Emu si fyi ng agent
1c1
Arlacel DOA
Emulsifying agent
1c1
Arlamol E
PPG-15 stearyl ether
1c1
Arlatone G
PEG 25 hydrogenated castor oil
1c1
Arlamol HD
Emul si fyi ng agent
1c1
Arlamol ISML
Isosorbide monolaurate
1c1
Arlamol M812
Emufsifying agent
1c1
Ar amo
s3
Emul si fyi ng agent
1c1
Ar amo
s7
E m u l si fyi ng
agent
1c1
Emul si fyi ng agent
1c1
Isoceteth-20
1c1
Arlatone G
PEG 25 hydrogenated castor oil
1c1
Arlatone PQ220
Polyquaternium-19
1c1
Arlatone T
Sunscreen agent
1c1
Arlatone 985
Sunscreen agent
1c1
Arlatone 2121
Sunscreen agent
1c1
Armeen DM18D
A1 i phati c ami nes
Akzo
A-SM
Stearami ne oxide
Nippon O i l
AT Series
Iron o x i d e s
Atlas G-1726
Beeswax der i vat i ve
Ar aso ve DMI Ar aso ve 200
Atlas G-1795
iquid
1c1 IC1
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
A t l a s G-2162
IC1
A t l a s G-2330
IC1
A t l a s G-3570
IC1
A t l a s G 73500
IC1
Atmul 84s Aubygel x-125 Avocado O i l
L i PO
Avocado Speci a1
Dragoco
Baby Powder #165-648
Fragrance
Bays l o n e F u i d M10
S i 1 icone
Mobay
Baysi 1 one F1 u i d PK2O
S i 1icone
Mobay
Beauty 0/239870
Perfume o i l
Bee's M i l k
Koster
Bentone EW
Hectorit e clay
Rheox
Eentone Gel CAO
Rheological a d d i t i v e
Rheox
Bentone Gel I P M
Rheological a d d i t i v e
Rheox
Eentone Gel LO1
Rheological a d d i t i v e
Rheox
Bentone Gel M I 0
Rheological a d d i t i v e
Rheox
Bentone Gel SS71
Rheological a d d i t i v e
Rheox
Rheol o g i c a
a d d i t i ve
Rheox
Rheol o g i c a
additive
Rheox
Eentone L T
Rheol o g i c a
a d d i t i ve
Rheox
Eentone MA
Rheologica
additive
Rheox
Eentone Ge
vs-5
Bentone Ge
vs-5
PC
483
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
484
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
B e r m o c o l l E230
Whi t t a k e r
B e r m o c o l l E481
Whi t t a k e r
B e t a Glucam 15% Coarse
Koster
B i o d y n e s TRF
Tissue r e s p i r a t o r y f a c t o r s
B i o l ac
L a c t i c a c i d , 88%
B i o - s u l p h u r CLR B i o t e r g e AS-40
CLR Sodi u m C14-C16 o l e f in s u l f o n a t e Stepan
Bi rch (water) Special B1 a n d o l
Brooks
Dragoco Mineral o i l
Wi t c o
Bouquet Eau de Mer PC 916.315 Perfume B r ij
Oleth-10
1c1
B r i j 20
Emul s i f y i n g a g e n t
1c1
B r i j 30
Emul s i f y i ng a g e n t
1c1
B r i j 35
E m u l s i f y i n g agent
1c1
B r i j 35SP
E m u l s i f y i n g agent
1c1
B r i j 52
Ceteth-2
1c1
B r i j 56
E m u l s i f y i n g agent
1c1
B r i j 58
Emul s i f y i n g a g e n t
1c1
B r i j 72
Steareth-2
1c1
B r i j 76
Steareth-10
1c1
B r i j 78
Steareth-20
1c1
B r i j 93
Emul s i f y i n g a g e n t
1c1
B r i j 97
Emul s i f y i n g a g e n t
1c1
B r i j 700
E m u l s i f y i n g agent
IC1
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
485
SOURCE
B r i j 721
Steareth-21
IC1
B r i j 721s
Emu1s i f y i ng agent
IC1
Bronopol
Bactericide
I n o l ex
Busan 1504
M i c r o b i o c i de
Buckman
c19-011
D&C Red No. 7
Sun
C19-012
D&C Red No. 6
Sun
C65-4429
F&D Y e l l o w No.
Cab-0-Si 1 M-5
Silica
Cabot
Cab-0-Si1
Silica
Cabot
DCA e t h y l c o c o y l a r g i n a t e
A j inomoto
TS-530
CAE
5
Sun
Camomile S p e c i a l
Dragoco
Capryl i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e
Bernel
Carbopol EDT
Carbomer
Goodri c h
Carbopol ETD 2055
Ca rbome r
Goodri ch
Carbopol 934
Carbomer 934
Goodr ic h
Carbopol 940
Carbomer 940
Goodri c h
Carbopol 941
Carbomer 941
Goodrich
Carbopol 954
Carbomer 954
Goodri ch
Carbopol 980
Carbomer 980
Goodri c h
Carbopol 981
Carbomer 981
Goodr ic h
Carbopol 1382
Carbomer 1 3 8 2
Goodri ch Witco
Carnation M i neral O i 1 Castorwax
Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l
CasChem
486
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
CHEMICALS DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
C e l l o s ze QP lOOMH
H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u ose
U n i o n Car
C e l l o s ze QP-4400-H
H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u ose
Union Car
C e l l o s ze PP-15,000-H
H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u ose
U n i o n Car
Cel q u a t H-1 00
Pol y q u a t e r n i um-4
NatStarch
C e l q u a t SC-240
Polyquaternium-10
NatStarch
Cera A l b a l a t e 103
Behenyl beeswaxates
Koster
Cera B e l l i n a
Pg-3 Beeswax
Koster
RAW MATERIALS Cegoso t C24
Ame r c ho 1
Cera1 an C e r a p h y l 41
C12-15 a l c o h o l s l a c t a t e
VanDyk
C e r a p h y l 45
Dioctyl
mal a t e
VanDyk
C e r a p h y l 50
Emul s i f ie r
VanDyk
C e r a p h y l 50s
Emul s i f ie r
VanDyk
C e r a p h y l 60
Q u a t e r n i urn-22
VanDyk
C e r a p h y l 65
Q u a t e r n i um-26
VanDyk
C e r a p h y l 368
Octyl palmitate
VanDyk
C e r a p h y l 375
I s o s t e a r y l neopentanoate
VanDyk
C e r a p h y l 424
Emulsifier
VanDyk
C e r a p h y l 494
Emul s i f i e r
VanDyk
C e r a p h y l 847
Octyldodecyl stearoyl s t e a r a t e
VanDyk
Ceraphyl I C A
Emulsifier
VanDyk
C e r a s y n t MN
G l y c o l s t e a r a t e SE
VanDyk
C e r a s y n t PA
Propylene g l y c o l s t e a r a t e
VanDyk
G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e SE
VanDyk
Cerasynt
Q
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
Cerasynt 840
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION PEG-20
stearate
SOURCE Van D y k
Ceresine Wax 130/135
Koster
Ceresi ne Wax 140/150
Koster
Cetal
Cetyl alcohol
Ame r cho 1
Cet 01 MM
Emol i e n t e s t e r s
Henke
Cet 01 OE
Emo 1 i e n t e s t e r s
Henke
Emol i e n t e s t e r s
Henke
C e t i o l SN
Emollient esters
Henkel
Chamomile LS
Safflower o i l ( a n d ) chamomile extract
Chi a r a 0/238927
Fragrance
Chlorhydrol, 50%
Aluminum c h l o r h y d r a t e , 50%
s
Cet 01
Rehei s Rita
Cholesterol NF P e a r l e s c e n t pigment
VanDyk
Chroma-lite Dark Blue P e a r l e s c e n t pigment
VanDyk
Ci t r o f l e x - 2
Plasticizer
Morf 1ex
C1 e a r l an
Lanol i n
Henkel
CMC 7MF
Cell u l o s e gum
Aqua1 on
Chroma-1 i t e 81 ack
Coconut Oil #76
We1 ch
Collagen C L R
CLR
Coll asol Color Color Color Color Color Color
Col 1 agen
No. 3170 Pur Oxy Yellow 0 . C . No. 3315 Pur Oxy Umber B . C . No. 2511 Lo-Micron Pink B . C . No. 3121-D & C Red No. 21 No. 7055 P u r Oxy Yellow 0.C. No. 7153 Lo-Micron P i n k B . C .
487
Croda
488
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS C o p h e r o l F-1300
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION Tocopherol
SOURCE Henkel
Corona Pure New L a n o l i n Cosmetic Tan C33-130
I r o n oxide
Sun
Cosmowax J
C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l (and) c e t e a r eth-20
Croda
Courage 0/243101
Fragrance
CP 1052
Shampoo base
IC1
Cremogen A l o e Vera
Propylene g l y c o l (and) ethoxyd i g l y c o l (and) a l o e e x t r a c t
Haarman
Cremophor A6
Surfactant
BASF
Cremophor A25
Surfactant
BASF
Cremophor EL
Surfactant
BASF
Cremophor HP14
Surfactant
BAS F
Cremophor RH410
Surfactant
BASF
Crodacel QM
Cocodimonium h y d r a x y p r o p o x y c e l l u l ose
Crodacid B
Behenic a c i d
Croda
C r o d a c o l C-70
Cetyl alcohol
Croda
C r o d a c o l C-95
Cetyl alcohol
Croda
C r o d a c o l CS-50
Cetearyl alcohol
Croda
C r o d a c o l S-95
Stearyl alcohol
Croda
C r o d a c o l S-95NF
Stearyl alcohol
Croda
C r o d a f o s CES
C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l ( a n d ) c e t e a r y l Croda phosphate
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
489
SOURCE
Crodafos N3 N e u t r a l
DEA O l e t h - 3 phosphate
Croda
C r o d a f o s N3A
O l e t h - 3 phosphate
Croda
C r o d a f o s N1 OA
O l e t h - 1 0 phosphate
Croda
C r o d a l a n LA
C e t y l a c e t a t e (and) a c e t y l a t e d 1 a n o l in a l c o h o l
Croda
Crodamol CAP
Fatty acid ester
Croda
Crodamol DA
Fatty acid ester
Croda
Crodamol ML
Fatty acid ester
Croda
Crodamol MM
Myri s t y 1 myri s t a t e
Croda
Crodamol PMP
PPG-2 m y r i s t y l e t h e r p r o p i o n a t e Croda
Crodamol PTC
P e n t a e r t h y r i t y l t e t r a c a p r y l a t e / Croda caprate
Crodamol P T I S
P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l t e t r a i s o s t e a r a t e Croda
Crodamol SS
Cetyl esters
Croda
Crodamol W
S t e a r y l heptanoate
Croda
Crodapearl L i q u i d
Sodi um 1a u r e t h s u l f a t e ( a n d ) h y d r o x y e t h y l stearamide-MIPA
Croda
C r o d a s i n i c LS-30
Sodi um 1 a u r o y l s a r c o s i n a t e
Croda
C r o m o i s t CS
C h o n d r o i t i n s u l f a t e (and) hydrolyzed p r o t e i n
Croda
C r o d e s t a F10
Sugar e s t e r
Croda
C r o d e s t a F110
Sugar e s t e r
Croda
Cropeptide W
H y d r o l y z e d wheat p r o t e i n ( a n d ) wheat o l ig o s a c c h a r i des
Croda
Croquat HH
Cocodimonium h y d r o x y p r o p y l hydrolyzed hai r k e r a t i n
Croda
Croquat L
Lauryldimonium h y d r o x y p r o p y l c o l 1agen
Croda
490
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
C r o s u l t a i ne C-50
Cocamidopropyl h y d r o x y s u l t a i n e
Croda
C r o t e i n AD
Hydrolyzed animal p r o t e i n
Croda
C r o t e i n SPA
Hydrolyzed animal p r o t e i n
Croda
Crothix
PEG-1 50 p e n t a e r y t h r i t y l
Croda
tetrastearate C r o v o l A-70
PEG-60 almond g l y c e r i d e s
Croda
C r o v o l PK-70
PEG-45 palm k e r n e l g l y c e r i d e s
Croda
Crystal 0
Castor o i l
CasChem
C u t i n a CBS
Cream base
Henkel
C u t i n a CP
Cream base
Henkel
C u t i n a GMS
Cream base
Henkel
C u t i n a LM
Cream base
Henkel
C u t i n a MD
Cream base
Henkel
Cyclomide DC 212/S
Cocamide DEA
Cyclo
C y c l o r y l WAT C y c l o t e r i c BET C-30
Cyclo Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e
Cyclo
DC-556 S i 1 icone
Dow C o r n i n g
DC-593 S i 1 icone
Dow Corning
D&C Red #7 Ca Lake (3107)
Thomasset
D & C Red #9 (31-3009)
Thomasset
Deosafe 75128 N / I
Perfume
Haarman
D e r m a c r y l LT
S k i n c a r e polymer
Nat. Starch
Dermacryl-79
S k i n c a r e polymer
Nat. Starch
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
491
SOURCE
Dermol 185
Isostearyl neopentanoate
Di aformer 2-A
Methacrylol ethyl betaine/ methacrylates copolymer
Sandoz
Diaformer 2-301
Methacrylol ethyl betaine/ methacrylates copolymer
Sandoz
Di aformer 2-400
Methacrylol ethyl betaine/ methacrylates copolymer
Sandoz
Di ahold A-503
AMP-Acrylates Copolymer
Sandoz
Dionil OC/K
PEG-4 01eami de
Hul s
D-Limonene
Dipentene
Florida
Dow Corning 2-7224
Si 1 icone
Dow Corn
Dow Corning Q2-5000
Di met h i cone cop01 yo 1
Dow Corn
Dow Corning 190
Dimethicone copolyol
Dow Corn
Dow Corning 193
Dimethicone copolyol
Dow Corn
Dow Corning 200
Di met h i cone
Dow Corn
DC 200 fluid; 50 vis
Di methicone
Dow Corn
Dow Corning 200; 100
Di methi cone
Dow Corn
Dow Corning 200; 200
Dimethicone
Dow Corning
Dow Corning 344 Fluid Cyclomethicone
Dow Corning
Dow Corning 345 Fluid Cyclomethicone
Dow Corning
Dow Corning 556
Phenyl tri methi cone
Dow Corning
Dow Corning 593
Dimethicone (and) trimethylsi loxysi 1 icate
Dow Corning
Dow Corning 929
Amodimethicone (and) nonoxyno1 -10 (and) tal 1 ow-tri moni um chloride
Dow Corning
Dow Corning 1401 Fluid
Dow Corning
492
RAW MATER I ALS D o w i c i l 200
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N P r e s e r v a t i ve
SOURCE Dow Dragoco
Dragocid Drakeol 9
Mineral o i l
Penreco
D r a k e o l 109
Mineral o i 1, naphthenic
Penreco
Drakeol 35
Mineral o i l
Penreco
D r y F l o PC
Aluminum s t a r c h o c t e n y l s u c c i n a t e Nat S t a r c h
Duveen T o i l e t Soap Base
Duveen
D y n a c e r i n 660
01 e y l e r u c a t e
Hul s
Dynasan 110
T r i Capri n
Hul s
Dynasan 1 1 4
T r i myri s t i
Eastman A0 38s
Polymer
Eastman
Eastman AQ 5 5 s
Polymer
Eastman
n
Hul s
Eastman V i t a m i n E TPGS (20%)
Eastman
Eastman V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e 6-81
Eastman
E l a s t o s o l Animal C o l l a g e n & E l a s t i n
Croda
Eldew CL-301
D i - ( c h o l e s t e r y l , behenyl , A j inomoto octyldodecyl) N-Lauroyl-L-glutamic a c i d e s t e r
E l e f a c 1-205
O c t y l d o d e c y l neopentanoate
Bernel
E l f a c o s C26
Polymer f o r c o s m e t i c s
Akzo
E l f a c o s E200
Polymer f o r c o s m e t i c s
Akzo
E l f a c o s ST9
Polymer f o r c o s m e t i c s
Akzo
Emal ex CC-168
Cetyl octanoate
N i hon
Emalex GM-5
POE ( 5 ) g l y c e r y l m o n o s t e a r a t e
N i hon
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW M A T E R I A L S
C H E M I C A L DESCRIPTION
493
SOURCE
Emalex GMS-7CAE
G l y c e r y l monostearate, emul s i f y i ng
self
Nihon Emul
Emal ex GMS-45RT
G l y c e r y l monostearate, emul s i f y i ng (HLB5)
self
Nihon Emul
Emalex HC-5
POE ( 5 ) h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l N i h o n Emul
Emalex S . T , G . - R
Hydrogenated o i l
Nihon Emul
Emeressence 1160
Phenoxyethanol
Henkel
Emerest 2000
G1 y c e r y l s t e a r a t e
Henkel
Emerest 2314
Ester
Henkel
Emerest 2316
Ester
Henkel
Emerest 2350
Glycol stearate
Henkel
Emerest 2388
Propylene g l y c o l d i p e l argonate
Henkel
Emerest 2400
Glyceryl stearate
Henkel
Emerest 2407
G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e SE
Henkel
Emerest 2452
Polyglyceryl di-isostearate
Henkel
Emersol 132
Stearic acid
Henkel
Emersol 213
Henkel
Emerson-1 323
Henkel
Emery I P P
Henkel
Emery 622
Coconut a c i d
Henkel
Emery 916
Glycerin pure
Henkel
Emery 1723
Henkel
E s c a l o l 507
O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA
Van Dyk
E s c a l o l 557
O c t y l methoxycinnamate
Van Dyk
E s c a l o l 567
Benzophenone-3
Van Dyk
494
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
E s t a l a n 430
Cosmetic emol 1 ie n t e s t e r
Lanaetex
E s t o l EHP 1543
Cosmetic e s t e r
Unichema
E s t o l 1550
Cosmetic e s t e r
Uni chema
Ethomeen C-25
E t h o x y l a t e d a1 ip h a t i c ami nes
Akzo
E t h o x - y k t t e d Carnauba
Koster
E t h o x y o l 24
Ethoxyl ated o l e y l alcohol
Lanaetex
Eumulgin 91
Cosmetic e m u l s i f i e r O/W
Hen k e l
Eumulgin 92
Cosmetic e m u l s i f i e r O/W
Henkel
E u p e r l a n PK-771
Pearl shine concentrate
Henkel
E u s o l e x 232
Sunscreen
EM I n d u s t
E u s o l e x 6300
Sunscreen
EM I n d u s t
Eutanol G
Octyldodecanol
Henkel
Ewalan ODE 5 0
HE Wagner
E x t r a c t 52
Z s c h i mmer
E x t r a p o n Hamamel i s Speci a1
Dragoco
E x t r a p o n 3-Speci a1
Dragoco
Fancol A L A
Acetylated l a n o l i n alcohol
Fanning
F i n q u a t CT
Q u a t e r n i um-75
F i netex
F i n s o l v TN
C12-15 a l c o h o l s b e n z o a t e
F i netex
amenco Super B l u e
Cosmetics p i g m e n t
Mearl
amenco S u p e r p e a r l
Cosmetics p i g m e n t
Mearl
amenco V e l v e t - 1 0 0
Cosmetics p i g m e n t
Mearl
exricin 9
Fatty acid ester
Caschem
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Floral Spice NP49
Fragrance
F1 orasynth AB5697
Powder type
Fluilan
Liquid lanolin
SOURCE
Croda
Fomblin HC/R
Brooks
Forestal 1
IC1
Forlan
L
R.I.T.A. b l e n d
Rita
Fragrance
Fr i t zsche
Fougere Lavender Fragrance DE-47 Fragrance DO-60
Novarome
Fragrance-Finesse Type Fragrance-Floral #169-120 Fragrance GG44
Novarome
Fragrance GK-17
Novarome
Fragrance GK-19
Novarome
Fragrance GK-21
Novarome
Fragrance GP-58
Novarome
Fragrance H-45756
Robertet
Fragrance 2991H
IFF
Fragrance #X3110
Roure
Fragrance #1-67 Fragrance #189-7124 Fragrance #163-478
495
496
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS G-9600
1053
G a f f ix VC-213
SOURCE
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION Shampoo base
IC1
V i nylcaprolactam/PVP/Dimethyl-
ISP
a m i n o e t h y l m e t h a c r y l a t e copolymer Gafquat 755
P o l y q u a t e r n i um-1 1
Gamma O r z a n o l
ISP
Koster
Ganex V-220
PVP/Eicosene copolymer
ISP
Ganex WP660
Alkylated v i n y l pyrrolidone c o p o l ymer
ISP
Geahlene 750
M i n e r a l o i l (and) hydrogenated butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer (and) hydrogenated e t h y l e n e / p r o p y l e n e / s t y r e n e copolymer
Gemtone Mauve Q u a r t z
Cosmetic p e a r l powder
Mearl
Germaben I 1
Cosmetic p r e s e r v a t i v e
Sutton
Germaben 11-E
Cosmetic p r e s e r v a t i v e
Sutton
Germall I 1
D i azo1 id i n y l u r e a
Sutton
Germall 115
I m i d a z o l id i n y l u r e a
Sutton
Geropon SBFA-30
Rhone
Ginkgo B i 1 oba
Verni n
Givaudan #PSC 10,435/6 F r a g r a n c e
G i vaudan
Glucam E-10
E t h o x y l a t e d methyl g l u c o s i d e s
Amerchol
Glucam P-20
Propoxylated methyl glucosides
Amerchol
G1 ucamate DOE-I 2 0
PEG-120 m e t h y l g l u c o s e d i o l e a t e Amerchol
G1 ucamate SSE-20
Ethoxylated methyl glucosides
Glucamate SSG-20
A1 k y l a t e d m e t h y l g l u c o s i d e e s t e r Amerchol
G l u c a t e DO
Methyl glucoside e s t e r
Amerc ho 1
G l u c a t e SS
Methyl glucoside e s t e r
Arne r c ho 1
Amerchol
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
SOURCE
Glucopon 425 CS
Amerchol
Glucopon 600 CSUP
Ame r c ho 1
Glucopon 625 CSUP
Arne r c ho 1
G l u c q u a t 100
Amerchol
Glydant
DMDM h y d a n t o i n
Glydant Plus
497
Lonza Lonza
G l y p u r e 70%
Glycolic acid
GMS SE
G l y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e SE
Stepan
G r i 1 locam E-20
Methyl gluceth-20
Rita
G r i 1 l o t e n LSE-65K
Sucrose c o c o a t e
Rita
G r i l l o t e n LSE-87K
Sucrose c o c o a t e
Rita
G r i l l o t e n PSE 141G
Sucrose s t e a r a t e
Rita
Hai r Complex Aquosum
CLR
Hamamel i s Speci a1
Dragoco
Hamp-ene Na4
T e t r a s o d um EDTA
Hampshi r e
Hamp-ene 220
T e t r a s o d um EDTA
Hampshi r e
H e r b a l F r a g r a n c e SL 79-1224
PFW
H e t e s t e r HCA
G l y c e r y l t r i a c e t y l hydroxys t ea r a t e
Bernel
H e t e s t e r HCP
PPG-3 h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l
Bernel
H i - S i 1 T-600
PPG
Horse-chestnut Special
Dragoco
H o s t a c e r i n PN73
Hoechst
498
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
H o s t a p h a t KL340N
Hoec h s t
Hydrogenated P o l y i s o b u t e n e
Amoco
Hydro1 yzed S i 1 k P r o t e i n
I keda
H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA
Wheat amino a c i d s
Croda
H y d r o t r i t i c u m 2000
Wheat p r o t e i n h y d r o l y z a t e s
Croda
Hydroxy01
Malmstrom
H y g r o p l ex HHG
CLR
H y s t a r CG
Hydrogenated s t a r c h h y d r o l y s a t e Lonza
H y s t r e n e 5016
Fatty acid
Humko
I g e p o n AC78
Ani on ic s u r f a c t a n t
ISP
I m w i t o r 780K
I s o s t e a r y l d i g l y c e r y l s u c c i n a t e Hul s
I m w i t o r 900
Glyceryl stearate
Hul s
I m w i t o r 960 F l a k e s
G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e SE
Hul s
I n c r o c a s 40
PEG-40 c a s t o r o i l
Croda
I n c r o d e t TD-7C
Trideceth-7 c a r b o x y l i c a c i d
Croda
I n c r o m a t e OLL
01 i v a m i d o p r o p y l d i m e t h y l a m i n e 1a c t a t e
Croda
I n c r o m a t e SEL
Sesamidopropyl d i m e t h y l a m i n e 1a c t a t e
Croda
I n c r o m e c t a n t AMEA-70
Acetamide MEA
Croda
I n c r o m e c t a n t AMEA-100 Acetamide MEA
Croda
I n c r o m e c t a n t LAMEA
Acetamide MEA ( a n d ) l a c t a m i d e MEA Croda
I n c r o m i d e ALD
A1 mondami de DEA
Croda
I n c r o m i d e BAD
Babassuamide DEA
Croda
Trade-Named Raw Materials
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
RAW M A T E R I A L S
SOURCE
I n c r o m i d e CA
Cocamide DEA
Croda
I n c r o m i d e CAC
Cocamide DEA c o c o y l s a r c o s i n e
Croda
I n c r o m i d e LR
Laurami de DEA
Croda
I n c r o m i d e WGD
Wheat germamide DEA
Croda
I n c r o m i n e BB
Behenamidopropyl
Croda
I n c r o m i ne Oxide WG
Wheat germami d o p r o p y l o x i d e
Croda
Incronam AL-30
Almondami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne
Croda
Incronam WG-30
Wheat germamidopropyl b e t a i n e
Croda
Incronam 30
Cocamidopropyl b e t a i ne
Croda
I n c r o p o l CS-20
Ceteareth-20
Croda
I n c r o p o l SC-20
Ethoxylated alcohol
Croda
I n c r o q u a t BA-85
Babassuami d o p r o p a l k o n i um chloride
Croda
dimethylamine
I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS Behentrimonium m e t h o s u l f a t e (and) c e t e a r y l a l c o h o l
499
Croda
I n c r o q u a t CR Conc.
C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l ( a n d ) PEG-40 Croda c a s t o r o i 1 ( a n d ) - s t e a r a l k o n i um chloride
I n c r o q u a t 0-50
Olea1 konium c h l o r i d e
Croda
I n c r o q u a t S-85
S t e a r a l konium c h l o r i d e
Croda
Indopol H-100
Viscous p o l y b u t e n e
Amoco
I r g a s a n DP300
Bacteriostat
C i ba-Gei gy
I r o n O x i d e Brown 7058
Warner-3enk
I r o n O x i d e Y e l l o w 7055
Warner-Jenk
Isopar H
Isoparaffin solvent
Exxon
500
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
Isopropylan 50
Isopropyl ester of lanolin
Arne rcho 1
Ivarlan 3230
Lanolin oil
Brooks
Ivy Special
3 - 13-AT
Dragoco
Talc
Jergens Type R-30318 Fragrance
Kaopolite SF
Polishing powder
Kaopolite
Kaopolite TLC
Polishing powder
Kaopoli te
Kaopolite 1147
Polishing powder
Kaop o 1i te
Karion F
E . Merck
Kathon CG
Methyichlorisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone
Rohm &
Keltrol
Xanthan gun1
Kelco
Keltrol F
Xanthan gun1
Kelco
Keltrol RD
Xan than gum
Kelco
Keltrol T
Xanthan gum
Ke 1co
Keltrol TF
Xanthan gum
Ke 1co
Kelzan
Xanthan gum
Kelco
Kelzan AR
Xanthan gum
Kelco
Kessco Ethylene Glycol Distearate
Stepan
Kessco Glyceryl Monostearate
Stepan
Kessco-653
Fatty ester
Stepan
Kester Wax K-48
Spermaceti
Koster
Kester Wax 62
Koster
Trade-Named Raw Materials
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
RAW M A T E R I A L S
501
SOURCE
Kester Wax 1 0 0
Koster
Kester Wax 8 5
Koster
K l u c e l GF
Hydroxypropylcellulose
Aqual on
K l u c e l MF
Hydroxypropylcellulose
Aqual on
Korthix H
Thickening agent
Kaopol i t e
K y t a m e r KC
P o l y q u a t e r n i urn-29
Amercho1
Lamepon S
Protein surfactant
Henkel
L a n e t o 50
PEG-75
1a n a 1 i n
Rita
L a n e t o 100
PEG-75
1a n o l i n
Rita
Lanette 0
Cetearyl alcohol
Henkel
Lanette N
Cream b a s e o/w
Henkel
L a n e t t e 16
Cetyl alcohol
Hen k e 1
Lanogene
Lanol i n a l c o h o l & m i n e r a l o i 1
Amerchol Rita
L a n o l i n USP Lanol i n-X-tra
Deodorized
Rita
Foaming a g e n t
Stepan
Lantrol
Liquid lanolin
Henkel
Lexaine C
Cocoami d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e
Inolex
Lexami n e S-13
Stearami d o p r o p y l d i m e t h y l ami n e
Inolex
Lexate I L
Concentrate/bl end
Inolex
L e x a t e PX
Petrolatum (and) lanolin alcohol Inolex
L e x e i n QX-3000
Quaternium-76 hydrolyzed c o l l a g e n I n o l e x
L e x e m u l AR
G l y c e r y l stearate ( a n d ) stearamidoethyl diethylamine
Lanthanol
LAL
Inolex
502
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
Lexemul CS-20
Cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth-20
Inolex
Lexemul EGMS
G1 ycol stearate
Inolex
Lexemul GDL
Glyceryl dilaurate
Inolex
Lexemul P
Emu1 si f i er
Inolex
Lexemul T
Glyceryl stearate SE
Inolex
Lexemul 55G
Glyceryl stearate
Inolex
Lexemul 515
G1 yceryl stearate
Inolex
Lexemul 561
Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 Inolex stearate
Lexgard 8
Butyl paraben
Inol ex
Lexgard Bronopol
2-bromo-2-nitropropane-l,3-diol
Inolex
Lexgard M
Methyl paraben
Inolex
Lexgard P
Propyl paraben
Inolex
Lexol BS
Isobutyl stearate
Inolex
Lexol EHS
Octyl stearate
Inolex
Lexol GT-865
Capryl ic/capric triglyceride
Inolex
Lexol PG 8/10
Emol 1 i ent
Inolex
Lexol PG-865
Propylene glycol dicaprylate/ dicaprate
Inolex
Lexol 3975
Isopropyl palmitate (and) isopropyl myri state (and) i sopropyl stearate
Inolex
Lexorez 100
Glycerine/diethylene glycol/ adi pate crosspolymer
Inolex
Lexquat AMG-BE0
Behenami dopropyl PG di moni um chl ori de
Inolex
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS Lexquat A M G - I S
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
I s o s t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l -PG-di moni urn I n o l ex chloride
Lime Blossom S p e c i a l L i p a c i d e PCO
503
Dragoco P a l m i t o y l h y d r o l y z e d animal protein
L i p o f r u i t Cucumber
L i DO L i po
L i p o n a t e SS
Stearyl stearate
L i PO
Lipovol A
Natural vegetable o i 1
L i PO
L i p o v o l ALM
Almond o i l
L i PO
Lipovol P
Natural vegetable o i 1
L i PO
L i popeg 100-S
Polyoxyethylene f a t t y a c i d ester
L i DO
L i p o x o l 600 MED
PEG- 1 2
Hul s
L i quapar
Preservative
Sutton
L i q u i d Coconut Soap, 40%
Laurel
Locron L
Henkel
Lo M i c r o n B l a c k
I r o n o x i d e s (and) t a l c
Whi t t a k e r
Lo M i c r o n P i n k
I r o n o x i d e s (and) t a l c
Whi t t a k e r
Lo M i c r o n Y e l l o w
I r o n o x i d e s (and) t a l c
Whi t t a k e r
L o n z e s t 143/S
Myristyl propionate
Lonza
L u v i s k o l VA64
Polyvinylpyrrolidone
BASF
L u v i s k o l 1 VA73W
PVP/VA copolymer
BASF
L u v i t o l EHO
Synthetic o i l
BASF
L y t r o n 295
Opaci f ie r
Morton
504
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
Mackadet BSC
Baby shampoo c o n c e n t r a t e
M c In t y r e
Mackadet CBC
Conditioner concentrate
McIntyre
Mackadet LCB
Conditioner concentrate
Mc I n t y r e
Mackadet SBC-8
M i I d blend
Mc I n t y r e
Mackadet WGS
Mc I n t y r e
Mackadet 40K
Mc I n t y r e
Mackalene NLC
Lactates
McI n t y r e
Mackal ene 116
Cocami d o p r o p y l d i m e t h y l ami ne lactate
McIntyre
Mackalene 316
S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l d i m e t h y l a m i ne 1a c t a t e
McI n t y r e
Mackal ene 326
Stearamidopropyl morpholine lactate
M c In t y r e
Mac ka ene 426
Isostearamidopropyl morpholine 1a c t a t e
McI n t y r e
Mac ka ene 716
Wheat germami d o p r o p y l d i m e t h y l - M c I n t y r e ami ne 1a c t a t e
Mackam CET
C e t y l b e t a i ne
Mc I n t y r e
Mac kam WGB
Wheat germamidopropyl b e t a i ne
Mc Int y r e
Mackam 2C
Cocoamphodiacetate
M c I nt y r e
Mackam 3 5
Cocoami d o p r o p y l b e t a ne
Mc I nt y r e
Mackam 35HP
Cocoami d o p r o p y l b e t a ne
M c Int y r e
Mackami de AME-100
Acetamide MEA
Mc Int y r e
Mackamide C
Cocamide DEA
Mc In t y r e
Mackami de CMA
Cocamide MEA
Mc I n t y r e
Mackamide CS
Cocamide DEA
Mc I n t y r e
Mackami de LLM
Laurami de DEA
Mc I n t y r e
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
505
SOURCE
Mackanate OM
D i s o d i u m o l e a m i d o MEA s u l f o succinate
McIntyre
Mackanate OP
Disodium oleamido M I P A sul fosucci nate
Mc Int y r e
Mackamide PK
Palmkernalamide DEA
Mc In t y r e
Mackami de PKM
Palmkernalamide MEA
McI n t y r e
Mackamide S
Soyamide DEA
Mc Int y r e
Mackami ne CAO
Cocami d o p r o p y l ami ne o x i d e
McI n t y r e
Mackami ne WGO
Wheat germamidopropylamine o x i d e M c I n t y r e
Mackanate CP
D i s o d i u m cocamido M I P A s u l f o succinate
McIntyre
Mackanate DC-30
Disodium dimethicone c o p o l y o l sul fosucci nate
McIntyre
Mackanate EL
D i s o d i um 1 a u r e t h s u l f o s u c c i n a t e M c I n t y r e
Mackanate LA
D i ammoni um 1a u r y l s u l f o s u c c i n a t e M c I n t y r e
Mackanate LO-Speci a1
D i s o d i um l a u r y l s u l f o s u c c i n a t e
McIntyre
Mackanat e WGD
D i s o d i um wheatgermami do PEG-2
McIntyre
sul fosucci nate Mackerni urn SDC-25
S t e a r a l koniurn c h l o r i d e
McI n t y r e
Mackerni um SDC-85
S t e a r a l konium c h l o r i d e
Mc In t y r e
Mackerni um 007
P o l y q u a t e r n i um 7
Mc Int y r e
Mackester EGDS
G1 y c o l d i s t e a r a t e
McI nt y r e
Mackester SP
Glycol stearate modified
Mc Int y r e
Mackine 3 0 1
Stearami d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l ami ne
McIntyre
Mackol 70NS
Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
Mc I nt y r e
Mackol 16
Cetyl alcohol
McI n t y r e
Mackol 1618
Cetearyl alcohol
Mc I n t y r e
506
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
Mackpearl L V
P e a r l agent
Mc I n t y r e
Mackpro NLP
Natural l i p i d p r o t e i n
McI n t y r e
Mackpro NSP
0 1 e y l / p a l m i t y l / p a l m i t o 1 amidop r o p y l / s i l k hydroxypropyl dimoni um c h l o r i d e
McI n t y r e
M a c k s t a t DM
DMDM h y d a n t o i n
M c Int y r e
Macol CPS
Polyoxyethylene f a t t y ether
PPG
M a c r o s p h e r i c a l 95
Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e
Rehei s
Magnabri t e
S t a b i 1 iz i ng, s u s p e n d i n g a g e n t
Am C o l l o i d
Magnabrite S
Magnesi u m a1 umi num s i 1 ic a t e
Wh it t a k e r
Maprof i x TLS-500
Triethanolamine l a u r y l s u l f a t e
Onyx
M a r c o l 70
Mineral o i l
Exxon
M a r c o l 130
Mineral o i l
Exxon
M a r i ne-Dew
P a r t i a1 1y d e a c e t y l a t e d c h i t i n
A j inomoto
M a r l a m i d e DF1218
Cocamide DEA
Huls
M a r l a m i d M1218
Cocamide DEA
Hul s
M a r l a m i d PG20
Cocamide MEA g l y c o l d i t a l l o w a t e Hul s
M a r l a z i n KC 30/50
Cocot r i moni um c h l o r ide
Huls
Mar i n a t CM 105
Sodium l a u r e t h - 1 1 c a r b o x y l a t e
Hul s
Mar i n a t DFK 30
Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e
Hul s
Mar i n a t DFN 30
Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e
Hul s
Mar i n a t SL 3/40
D i s o d i u m l a u r e t h s u l f o s u c c i n a t e Hul s
M a r l in a t 242/28
Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
Hul s
M a r l in a t 242/70
Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
Huls
M a r l o n PS65
Sodi um C13-C17 a1 kane s u l f o n a t e H u l s
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW M A T E R I A L S
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
SOURCE
M a r l o p h o r MOB-acid
L a u r e t h - 3 phosphate
Hul s
Marloohor TlONa-salt
Sodium d i s t e a r e t h - 1 0 phosphate
Hul s
Mar 1 owet LMA2
Laureth-2
Hul s
Marlowet R l I / K
PEG-I1
castor o i l
Hul s
Marlowet R 4 0 / K
PEG-40 c a s t o r o i l
Huls
M a r l o w e t TA6
Ceteareth-6
Hul s
M a r l o w e t TA25
Ceteareth-25
Hul s
M a s i l SF-V F l u i d
Cyclomethicone
PPG
M a s i l 280
Dimethicone c o p o l y o l
PPG
M a s i l 656
S i 1icone
PPG
Maypon 4C
P o t a s s i urn c o c o y l -hydro1 yzed c o l 1agen
Inolex
Mazox CAPA
Cocarni d o p r o p y l ami ne o x i d e
PPG
M e a r l in-AC
Powdered p e a r l p i g m e n t
Mearl
Merkur 1546
Vase1 ine t y p e
Merquat 100
P o l y q u a t e r n i urn-6
Cal gon
Merquat 550
Pol y q u a t e r n i urn-7
Cal gon
Methocel E4M
Hydroxypropyl m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e
Dow
Methocel F4M
Hydroxypropyl
methylcellulose
Dow
Methocel 40- 0 0
H y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h y l c e l l u l ose
Dovi
Micro-dry
A 1 umi num c h l o r o h y d r a t e powder
Rehei s
M i croencapsu a t e d V i t a m i n
E HC487
M i c r o n i z e d T i 0 2 LA-20 T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e M i g l y o l Gel B
Capryl i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e ( a n d ) s t e a r a l konium ( a n d ) propylene carbonate h e c t o r i t e
507
Hul s
508
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATER IALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
Miglyol 812
Capryl i c/capri c triglyceride
Huls
Miglyol 829
Capryl ic/capric/diglyceryl succinate
Hul s
Miglyol 840
Propylene glycol dicaprylate
Huls
Mineral Colloid BP
Montmorillonite
ECC
Mineral Oil #7
Penreco
Mineral Oil #9
Penreco
Miranol C2M Conc. NP
Cocoamphocarboxyglycinate
Rhone
Mi ranol Ester PO-LM4
Polypentaerythri tyl tetralaurate
Rhone
Miranol MHT
Lauroamphoglycinate (and) t ri decet h sul fate
Rhone
Mi ranol 2MHT Modified Imidazoline amphoteric
Rhone
Mi rasheen 202
Rhone
Mi ratai ne BET C-30
Cocamidopropyl betaine
Rhone
Mi ratai ne BET 0-30
Oleami dopropyl betai ne
Rhone
Mirataine CB
Surface active agent
Rhone
Modul an
Acetylated lanol in
Arne rcho 1
Monafax 160
Phosphate ester
Mona
Monafax 785
Phosphate ester
Mona
Monamate LNT-40
Diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate Mona
Monamid CMA
Cocamide MEA
Mona
Monami d 1 SOADD
Cocamide DEA
Mona
Monamid 7 0 5
Cocamide DEA
Mona
Monarnid 716
Laurami de DEA
Mona
Monamid 1089
A1 kanol ami de
Mona
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS Monami ne 1 2 5 5
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N A1 k a n o l ami de
SOURCE Mona Mona
Monamulse DL-1273 Monaquat TG
Dihydroxyethyl dihydroxypropyl stearammonium c h l o r i d e
Monaterge 1164
Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e ( a n d ) Mona disodium l a u r y l s u l f o s u c c i n a t e
M o n a t e r i c CAB
Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne
Mona
Mona
M o n a t e r i c CLV
Mona
M o n a t e r i c COAB
Mona
Mowiol 10-98
509
Polyvinyl alcohol resin
Hoechst
M u l s i f a n CPA
Z s c h i mmer
M u l s i f a n RT 2 0 3 / 8 0
Zschi mmer
M u l s i f a n RT275
Z s c h i mmer
Mu1 t i wax W-835
M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e wax
W i tco
Myacide SP
2,4-dichlorobenzyl
Inolex
M y r i t o l PG
Propylene g l y c o l d i c a p r y l a t e
M y r j 52
Polyoxethylene stearate
IC1
M y r j 52s
PEG-50 s t e a r a t e
IC1
Myvatex 60
Emul s i f ie r
Myvatex T e x t u r e L i t e
Emul s i f ie r
Myverol 18-06
Hydrogenated soy g l y c e r i d e
Eastman
N a t r o s o l 250 HHR
Hydroxyethyl c e l l ulose
Aqual on
N a t r o s o l 2 5 0 HR
Hydroxyethyl c e l l u l o s e
Aqual o n
Naturechem GMHS
Castor o i l d e r i v a t i v e
Caschem
alcohol
510
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
N a t u r e H a r v e s t 165-050 F r a g r a n c e Neobee M-5
Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Strpan
Neo H e l i o p a n , AV
O c t y l niethoxy c i n n a n i a t e
Ha a r ilia n
Neo H e l i o p a n , BB
Benzophenone-3
Haarman
Neo H e l i o p a n , Type El000
Haarman
Neo H e l i o p a n , Hydro
Phenylbenzimidazole s u l f o n i c acid
Ha a rnian
Neo H e l i o p a n , MA
Menthyl a n t h r a n i l a t e
Ha a r ilia n
Neo H e l i o p a n , MBC
Haarman
Neo H e l i o p a n , O S
Ha a r ilia n
Neo H e l i o p a n , 303
Octocryline
Nikkol
N i k k o l L e c i n o l S-10-M N i k k o l MYS-55
Ha a riii an
PEG-55 s t e a r a t e
Nikko
N i k k o l WCB
Nikko
Nimlesterol D
Malnis t roni
N i n o l AA-62 E x t r a
Foam s t a b i l i z e r
Stepan
N i n o l 49-CE
Cocainide D E A
Stepan
Nipas t a t
Parabens
Nipa
Novarome DE-47 F r a g r a n c e
Nova rome
Novarome DE5 1
Nova r oine
Perfume
Novarome F r a g r a n c e CD-69
Novaronie
N o v i l l e 1184504
Noville
Fragrance
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS Oct ip irox
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION Piroctone alamine
SOURCE Hoechst
Orgasol 2 0 0 2 D Natural Extra Cos Nylon-12
Atochem
Oxaban A
Angus
Preservative
511
Zschimine r
Oxetal VD20 Oxynex K Liquid
Antioxidant
Zsch iminer
Oxynex 2004
Antioxidant
Zsch immer
Oxypon 288
Zschimmer
Oxypon 328
Zschimmer
Oxypon 2145
Zschimmer
Oyster Nut Oil
Koster
Ozokerite Waxes
Int Wax
Ozokerite Waxes
Koster
Ozokerite Waxes
Ross
Padimate 0
Octyl dimethyl PABA
Panalane
Hydrogenated polyisobutene
Amoco
Pantheno1
D1-Panthenol Cosmetic Grade
Roche
Paragon
DMDM hydantoin (and) methyl paraben
McIntyre
Parcel MCX
Givaudan
Paricin 9
Fatty acid ester
CasChem
Parsol HS
UV-B sunscreen
Givaudan
Parsol MCX
Octyl methoxycinnamate
Givaudan
Parsol 1789
UV-A sunscreen
Givaudan
Parsol 5000
UV-B sunscreen
Givaudan
512
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
SOURCE
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
RAW MATERI ALS
Rita
P a t i o n i c ISL
Sodi urn i s o s t e a r y l 1a c t y l a t e
P a t i o n i c ISL/85
Sodium i s o s t e a r y l l a c t y l a t e @ 8 5 %R i t a
P a t i o n i c SSL
Sodium s t e a r o y l l a c t y l a t e
Rita
Patlac I L
Isostearyl lactate
Rita
P a t l a c L A (44%)
Lactic acid
Rita
PC 9043
S i 1 icone emu1 s i on
IC1
PC 9044
S i 1 icone emu1 si on
IC1
PC 9045
S i 1 i c o n e emu s i on
IC1
PC 9046
S i 1 i c o n e emu s i on
IC1
PC 9047
S i 1 i c o n e emu s i o n
IC1
PC 9048
S i 1 i c o n e emu s i o n
IC1
PCV 1454
Fragrance
PEG-120 M e t h y l G l u c o s e D i q l e a t e
Rita
Pemulen TR-I
P o l ymer i c emul s i f ie r
Goodri c h
Pemulen TR-2
P o l y m e r i c emul s i f i e r
Goodrich
Permul g i n 3220
Custom b l e n d e d wax
Koster Penreco
Penreco M i n e r a l O i l #9 P e p t e i n 2000x1
Hydrolyzed collagen
Hormel
P e r f e c t a USP
Petrolatum
Witco
Perfume D i n a l aya 129,051 Perfume #44575
F r itsche
P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055
Z s c h i mmer
P e r 1g l anzmi t t e l GM 41 75
Z s c h i mmer
P e r m e t h y l 104A
A1 ip h a t i c h y d r o c a r b o n
Pe rmet hy 1
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS P e r t Type #189-724
513
SOURCE
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION Fragrance
Petrolatum Alba
Wi tco
Per1 g l anzmi t t e l GM4175
Z s c h i mmer
Phenoni p
Ni p a
P h o s f e t a l 201 K
Z s c h i mmer
Phosphol i p i d EFA
Biomimetic phospholipid
Mona
Phosphol ip i d PTC
B i omi m e t i c p h o s p h o l ip i d
Mona
P h o s p h o l i p i d SV
B i omi met ic p h o s p h o l ip i d
Mona Mona
P h o s p h o t e r i c PTC P h o s p h o t e r i c QL-38 Pigment Pigment Pigment Pigment
paste paste paste paste
T r i s o d i u m lauroampho PG a c e t a t e phosphate c h l o r i d e
Mona
w h i t e : N r . 93975 y e l l o w : N r . 75577 r e d : N r . 68775 b l a c k : N r . 78375
P l u r o n i c F-127
Polyoxyal kylene g l y c o l block polymer
BASF
PNC 400
S o d i urn carbomer
3v
P o l awax
E m u l s i f y i n g wax NF
Croda
Polawax A - 3 1
E m u l s i f y i n g wax N F
Croda
P o l y a l d o 10-1-5
Polyglyceryl-IO stearate
Lonza
P o l y a l do 1 0 - 6 - 0
Polyglyceryl-10
Lonza
hexaoleate
U n i o n Carb
Polymer J R 400 P o l y o x WSR
Water s o l u b e r e s i n
U n i o n Carb
Polyquta-400
Polyquatern um-IO
Rita
P o l y q u t a 3000
P o l y q u a t e r n urn-10
Rita
514
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
RAW MATERIALS
SOURCE
P o l y s o r b a t e 60
P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e (20) s o r b i t a n monostearate
IC1
P o l y s y n l ane
Hydrogenated p o l y i s o b u t e n e
Polyesther
P r i s o r i n e 3505
G1 y c e r i ne
Uni chema
P r i s o r i n e 3515
G1 y c e r ine
Unichema
P r i s o r i n e 9083
G1 y c e r in e
Uni chema
P r o c e t y l AWS
PPG-5 C e t e t h 20
Croda
Prodew 100
S o r b i t o l & Sodium L a c t a t e & P r o l i n e & Sodium PCA & Hydrolyzed Collagen
A j inomoto
Promoi s W-32
Hydrolyzed collagen
Rita
Promoi s WK
Hydrolyzed k e r a t i n
R ta
Promoi s WK-HQ
H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i moni um h y d r o 1 yzed k e r a t i n
R ta
Promulgen D
C e t e a r y l Alcohol(and)Ceteareth-20
P r o m y r i s t y l PM3
PPG-3 m y r i s t y l e t h e r
Croda Cent e r c hem
Pronalan A n t i c e l l u l i t e P r o p e l l a n t A-46
Ame r c ho 1
Hydrocarbon p r o p e l l a n t Koster
P r o p o l i s Wax
1s
Petrolatum
Witco
P r o t o p e t 2A
Petrolatum
W itco
P r o t o x T-25
E t h o x y l a t e d ami n e
Protomeen
P u r a s a l S/SP 60%
Sodi u m l a c t a t e
Purac Amer
Protopet
P u r . Navy B l u e #7110 Pur Oxy Y e l l o w BC & Pur Oxy B l a c k BC Pigment
Whi t t a k e r
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATER I ALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
515
SOURCE
P u r t o n CFD
Z s c h i mmer
P u r t o n SFD
Z s c h i mmer
PVP-K-30
ISP
PV P
P y r o t e r CPI-40
A j inomoto
P y r o t e r GPI-25
A j inomoto
Raluben TL
Raschi g
Resyn 26-1 31 4
H a i r s p r a y polymer
Nat S t a r c h
Resyn 28-291 3
H a i r s p r a y polymer
Nat S t a r c h
Resyn 28-2930
H a i r s p r a y polymer
Nat S t a r c h Rewo
Rewomi d S-280 Rezal 36G
A1 Z r t e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x ,
gly
Rehei s
Rezal 36GP
A1 Z r tetrachlorohydrex, Super u l t r a f i n e ,
gly
Rehei s
R h e o l a t e 5000
Acrylate/Va
copolymer
Rhodacal A-246/L
Rehei s Rhone
Rhodapex MA-360
Ether s u l f a t e
Rhone
Rhodapon L-22
A1 k y l s u l f a t e
Rhone
Rhodapon LSB
A1 k y l s u l f a t e
Rhone
Rhodapon LT-6
A1 k y l s u l f a t e
Rhone
Rhodapon SB 8208/S
A1 k y l s u l f a t e
Rhone
Rhodapon 21 LS
A1 k y l s u l f a t e
Rhone
Rhodi g e l
Xanthan gum
Vanderbilt
Rhodorsi 1 O i 1 s 70041 VO. 65
Rhone
R h o d o r s i l 700 45V2
Rhone
Cyclomethicone
516
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
R i c e Bran O i l F i l t e r e d
SOURCE Koster
R i t a b a t e 20
P o l y s o r b a t e 20
Rita
R i ta-BTAC
B e h e n t r i moni um c h l o r i de
Rita
R i t a CA
Cetyl alcohol
Rita
R i t a c e t - 20
Ceteareth-20
Rita
Cetearyl alcohol
Rita
Ritaceti
Cetyl esters
Rita
R itacetyl
A c e t y l a t e d 1a n o l i n
Rita
R itachol
M i n e r a l o i l and l a n o l i n a l c o h o l R i t a
Ritachol I000
C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l (and) p o l y s o r b a t e 60 ( a n d ) PEG-150 s t e a r a t e (and) s t e a r e t h - 2 0
Rita
R i t a c h o l 2000
R . I. T . A . b l e n d
Rita
R i t a c h o l 5000
R.I.T.A. blend
Rita
R i ta-CTAC
Cetrimonium c h l o r i d e
Rita
R i taderm
P e t r o l a t u m ( a n d ) a n o l i n (and Rita sodium PCA ( a n d ) p o l y s o r b a t e 8 5
R i t a EGDS
Glycol d i stearate
Rita
R i t a EGMS
Glycol stearate
Rita
R i t a GC
Guanidine carbonate
Rita
R i t a GMS
Glyceryl stearate
Rita
R i tahydrox
H y d r o x y l a t e d 1a n o l i n
Rita
R i t a l an
Lanolin o i
Rita
R i t a l a n AWS
PPG-12-PEG 6 5 l a n o i n o i l
Rita
Ritalan C
R.I.T.A.
R i t a l a s t i n EL30
Hydro1y z e d e l a s t i n
R i ta-Cetearyl
70/30
b end
Rita Rita
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
R i t a l o e 4OX
Aloe vera gel
Rita
R i t a l o e 200M
Aloe vera gel
Rita
Ritamide C
Cocamide DEA
Rita
Ritapan D
d-Panthenol
Rita
R i t a p a n DL
dl-Panthenol
Rita
R i t a p e g 1500s
PEG-150 d i s t e a r a t e
Rita
R i taphenone 3
Benzophenone-3
Rita
R i t a p r o 165
R,
I .T.A. b l e n d
Rita
R i t a p r o 200
R.I.T.A.
R i t a SA
Stearyl alcohol
Rita
R i ta-SBC
S t e a r a l konium c h l o r i d e
Rita
R i ta-STAC
S t e a r t r i moni um c h l o r i d e
Rita
R i t a s y n t IP
G l y c o l s t e a r a t e and o t h e r s
Rita
R i tavena-5
Hydrolyzed oat f l o u r
Rita
R i tawax
Lanol i n a l c o h o l
Rita
R i t a w a x ALA
R.I.T.A.
Rita
Ritoleth 5
Oleth-5
Rita
R i toleth-10
01 e t h - 1 0
Rita
R i t o x 35
Laureth-23
Rita
Robane
Squal ane
Robeco
blend
Rita
Dragoco
Rosemary S p e c i a1 Rosswaxes
blend
Waxes
51 7
Ross
518
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
Salon #169-122
Fragrance
Sandopan DTC Acid
Trideceth-7-carboxylic acid
Sandoz
Sandobet SC
Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultai ne
Sandoz
Sandoxylate SX-424
PPG-2-isodeceth-12
Sandoz Zschi mm-
Setacin 103 Special SF 18 (350) silicone
Dimethicone
Dow Corn Koster
Shea Butter Shebu
Shea butter
Rita
Shebu WS
PEG-50 shea butter
Rita
Shellsol T
Petroleum di sti 1 1 ates
Shel
Shellsol 71
Petroleum distillates
Shel
Sicomet Black 80 C.I. 77499
BASF
Sicomet Brown 70 C.I. 77491
BASF
Sicomet Brown 75 C.I. 77491
BASF
Sicomet Patentblau BOE 131 Patent Blue
BASF
Si 1 i cone 200/100
Dow Corn
Silicone Fluid DC-200 (200 cps)
Dow Corn
Silicone Fluid 225
Dow Corn
Silicone Fluid 344 and 345 (Volatile)
Dow Corn
Si 1 ki ence Type #169-120 Fragrance Koster
Si 1 i cony1 Beeswax Siltex -50 +lo0 Mesh
Fused silica
Kaopol
Si mchi n Ref i ned
Jojoba oil
Rita
Sipon ES
Sodium lauryl ether sulfate
Rhone
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
S i p o n ES-2
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
519
SOURCE Rhone Rhone
S i p o n ESY S i p o n a t e DD8-40
A1 k y l a r y l s u l f o n a t e
Rhone
S i p o n LCP
Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e
Rhone
SL 79-1224
Herbal f r a g r a n c e
PFW
S o f t i g e n 701
Glyceryl r i c i n o l e a t e
Hul s
S o f t i g e n 767
PEG-6 c a p r y l ic / c a p r i c g l yc e r i des
Hul s
S o f t san 100
Hydrogenated c o c o - g l y c e r i d e s
Huls
S o f t san 154
Hydrogenated p a l m o i l
Huls
S o f t san 378
Capryl i c / c a p r i c / s t e a r i c triglyceride
Hul s
S o f t i s a n 601
G l y c e r y l cocoate (and) hydrogenated cocoanut o i l ( a n d ) ceteareth-25
Huls
S o f t i s a n 645 & 649
B i s-diglyceryl caprylate/
Hul s
caprate/isostearate/hydroxystearate adipate Caschem
S o l a r Chem 0 Soltrol
100
~ 9 - 1 1i s o p a r a f f i n
Phi 11 i p s
S o l u l a n PB5
A1 k o x y l a t e d 1a n o l in d e r i v a t i v e Amerchol
S o l u l a n 16
Laneth-16 & c e t e t h 16 & oleth-16 & steareth-16
Arne r c ho 1
S o l u l a n 25
Laneth-25 & c e t e t h - 2 5 & oleth-25 & steareth-25
Amer c ho 1
S o l u l a n 98
P o l y s o r b a t e 80, a c e t y l a t e d 1 a n o l in a1 coho1 , c e t y l acetate
Amerchol
S o l u v i t CLR
CLR
520
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
RAW MATERIALS
SOURCE
Sorbo
S o r b i t o 1 s o l u t i on, USP
IC1
Span 6 0
E m u l s i f y i n g agent
IC1
Span 6 5
E m u l s i f y i n g agent
IC1
Span 8 0
Emu1 s i f y i ng a g e n t
IC1
Spermwax
S y n t h e t i c spermaceti
Robeco
S p i c y Lime #4851-AN
Fragrance
IFF
S&P W h i t e NF 422P
Beeswax
S&P #1 Y e l l o w 73
Carnauba wax
S&P 18
M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 ine wax
S&P 75
Candel i 11a wax
Span 40
S o r b i t a n monopalmi t a t e
Squeeky C l e a n # 1 6 5 - 0 4 7
IC1
Fragrance
S t a n d a p o l EA-2
Ammonium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
Henkel
Standapol E S - I
Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
Hen k e l
Standapo
ES-2
Sodi um
aureth-2 s u l f a t e
Henkel
Standapo
ES-3
Sodi urn
aureth-3
Henkel
Standapo
WAQ-LC
Sodi urn
auryl s u l f a t e
S t e p a n o l AM
sulfate
Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e
S t i n g i n g N e t t l e Special
Henkel Stepan Dragoco
Super Corona
L u x u r y USP l a n o l i n
Croda
S u p e r s a t AWS-4
PEG-20 h y d r o g e n a t e d l a n o l i n
Rita
Syncrowax ERCL
C18-36 a c i d g l y c o l e s t e r
Croda
Syncrowax HGLC
C1B-36 a c i d t r i g l y c e r i d e
Croda
S i l i c o n O i l AK500
sws
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW M A T E R I A L S
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
Sipon ES2
Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
Sedermasome
Soy l e c i t h i n
S M D I P o l yo1 prep01 ymer -2
521
SOURCE Rhone
PPG- 12
S o f t i s a n 378
Caprylic/capric/stearic triglyceride
Hul s
Sol u l a n - 7 5
PEG 7 5 l a n o l i n
Arne r c ho 1
S p e c t r a p e a r l BLG
Pearl escent pigment
ISP
S p e c t r a v e i l TG
U l t r a - f i n e ZnO
T i o x i de
S p e c t r a v e i 1 9O/MOTG
U l t r a - f i n e Zn0(40% s o l i d s D i s p ) T i o x i d e
SS4267
D i meth i cone and t r im e t h y l -
GE S i l i c o n e
siloxysilicate Standamid K O
Cocamide DEA
Henkel
Standamide T
Teals
Henkel
Standapol ES-l&ES-2
Sodi um l a u r e t h s u l f a t e
Henkel
S t a n d a p o l ES-3
Sodi um l a u r e t h s u l f a t e 2890
Henkel
Standapo
T
TEA-lauryl
Henkel
Standapo
WAQ&WAQ-SP
Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e
sulfate
Henkel
Sul f e t a l KT400
Z s c h i mmer
S u l f e t a l TC50
Zschi mmer
Sunarome OMC
Felt o n
Super Amide L-9
Coconut f a t t y a c i d d i e t h a n o l ami de
Onyx
Super H a r t o l an
Lanolin alcohol
Croda
Super R e f i n e d Babassu O i l Super R e f i n e d Wheat Germ O i l Super S t e r o l E s t e r
C10-30 C h o l e s t e r o l / L a n e s t e r o l E s t e r s
522
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N
SOURCE
Super W h i t e
P e t r o l a t u m USP
Suttocide A
Sodi um h y d r o x y m e t h y l g l y c i n a t e
Sutton
Syncrowax A w l - C
S y n t h e t i c wax
Croda
Syncrowax HGL-C
C18-36 a c i d t r i g l y c e r ide
Croda
S y n t h e t i c Beeswax JH-1508
Ross
TABS-D
Union Camp
Tagat S
Sol u b i 1 iz e r
Takasago
Fragrance
T a l c Supra A
Premium t a l c ,
Tamol N
Dispersant
Goldschmidt
coarse ground
Cyprus Rohm&Haas Nat S t a r c h
T a p i o c a F1 o u r Tegin M
Glyceryl stearate
Go1 dschmi d t
T e g i n T4753
Organi c emu1 s i f ie r
Go1 dschmi d t
T e g o b e t a i ne L-7
Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne
Goldschmidt
Teg.
Go1 dschmi d t
"P"
Tenox & Tenox 4
Antioxidant
Eastman
Tenox BHA
BHA
Eastman
Tensagex EOC-670
IC1
T e r g i t o 1 NP-10
Surfactant
U n i o n Carb
T e r r y AGO02
Aloe vera gel
Terry
T i caxan
Xanthan gum
T i c Gums
Timbuktu 0/186901
Fragrance
T i m i r o n MP-10
I n t e r f e r e n c e pigment
Rona P e a r l
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
T i i n i r o n P e a r l S h e e n MP-30 I n t e r f e r e n c e P i g m e n t
Rona
T i m i r o n S u p e r Red I n t e r f e r e n c e P i g m e n t
Rona
T i o v e i i AQ/FIN/MOTG
Ultra-fine
Tioxide
TL-10
PEG-20 s o r b i t a n m o n o l a u r a t e
titanium dioxide
Rita
Tocopherol Toiiiah A 0 - 7 2 8
Tomah
Special
T r it i s o l
S o l u b l e wheat p r o t e i n
T r i v e n t NP-13 & S S - 2 0 T r i d e c y l n e o p e n t a n o a t e
Croda Trivent
T r y c o l 5963
Ester
Henkel
Tween 2 0
P o l y s o r b a t e 20
IC1
Tween 4 0
Polysorbate 40
IC1
Tween 6 0
P o l y s o r b a t e 60
IC1
Tween 6 1
Polyoxyethylene sorbitan iiionos t e a r a t e
IC1
Tween 8 0
Polysorbate 80
IC1
Tween 8 1
Polyoxyethylene sorbitan inonoolea t e
IC1
Tween 8 5
Emulsifying agent
IC1
Unipertan P - 2 4
523
Lip0
U s n a t A0
Anti-dandruff
U v i n u l E-40
Benzophenone-3
BASF
Uvinul MS-40
Benzophenone-4
BASF
U v i n u l 0-18
Octyl s a l i c y l a t e
BASF
524
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N Kaolin
Vancl ay Van Gel B
SOURCE Vanderbi 1 t Vanderbilt
Vanox PCX
BHT
Vanderbi 1 t
Vanseal CS
Sarcosinate s u r f a c t a n t
Vanderbilt
Vanseal NACS-30
Sodi urn c o c o y l s a r c o s i n a t e
Vanderbilt
Vansael NALS-30
Sarcosinate s u r f a c t a n t
Vanderbilt
Veegurn/F/HV/Pro/ Regul ar/U1 t r a
Magnesi u m a1 umi nurn s i 1 ic a t e
Vanderbilt
V e l s a n P8-3
I s o p r o p y l C12-15 P a r e t h - 9 Carboxyl a t e
Sandoz
Aloe vera gel
D r . Madis
Veragel L i q u i d 1 : l
Aloe vera gel
D r . Madis
V e r a g e l 2 0 0 Powder
Aloe vera
D r . Madis
V e r s a t y -42
H a i r s p r a y PO ymer
Nat S t a r c h
Versene NA
D i s o d i urn EDTA
Dow
Versene-220
C h e l a t i n g agent
Dow
Veragel
Liquid
V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e Type PIMO/BH Vitamin E
Tocopherol
Vitamin E Acetate
Tocopherol a c e t a t e
V o l a t i l e S i l i c o n e 7207 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e Volpo 3
01 e t h - 3
Croda
Volpo 5
01 e t h - 5
Croda
V o l p o s-2
Steareth-2
Croda
Steareth-10
Croda
VOlDO
s-10
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
525
SOURCE
Wachsemulsion 1864
Z s c h i mmer
Wheat Germ O i l
Rita
White Jojoba O i l
Ross
White Protopet
Petrolatum
P e t r o l it e
White Protopet I S
Petrolatum
P e t r o l it e
W i c k e n o l 163
D i o c t y l a d i p a t e (and) o c t y l Caschem s t e a r a t e (and) o c t y l p a l m i t a t e
Wickenol 386
Alumi num z i r c o n i um t e t r a chlorohydrex Gly
Caschem
W i t c o n a t e AOS
Sodium C14-16 o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e
Witco
Y e l l o w BC I r o n O x i d e s
Warner
2-Cote
Sun Smart
Z e t e s o l MS
Zschimmer
Z e t e s o l NL
Z s c h i mmer
Z e t e s o l 856T
Zschimmer
Z e t e s o l 2056
Z s c h i mmer
Z u s o l a t 1005/85
Z s c h i mmer
Section XIV Suppliers' Addresses
526
Suppliers' Addresses
A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . Glenpoint C t r . W 500 F r a n k W. B u r r B l v d . Teaneck, NJ 07645
527
Aqua1 on 1313 N . M a r k e t S t . W i l m i n g t o n , D E 19899
(302)-594-5000/(800)-345-8104
(201)-907-3244 Akzo C h e m i c a l s , I n c . 300 S . R i v e r s i d e P l a z a Chicago, I L 60606
Atochem N o r t h America 900 M i l k S t . C a r t a r e t , NJ 07008
(908)-541-4414
(312)-906-7500 A l l i e d Signal, Inc. P . O . Box 2332R M o r r i stown, NJ 07962
BASF Corp. 100 C h e r r y H i l l Rd. P a r s i ppany, NJ 07054 (201)-316-3000/(800)-526-1072
(201)-455-2000 A l p i n e Aromatics I n t ' l I n c . 51 E t h e l R d . W P i s c a t a w a y , NJ 08854
B e r n e l Chemical Co., 174 Grand Ave. Englewood, NJ 07631
Inc.
(201)-569-8934
(908)-572-5600 Amerchol C o r p . P . O . Box 4051 136 Talmadge Rd. Edison, NJ 08818
(908)-248-6000 American C o l l o i d Co. Hwy 212W B e l l e Fourche, S D 57717
(605)-892-2591 American L e c i t h i n C o , 33 T u r n e r Rd. P . O . Box 1908 Danbury, CT 06813
(203)-790-2700 Amoco Chemical C o , 200 E. Randolph D r . Chicago, I L 60601
(312)-856-3200/(800)-621-4567 Angus Chemical Co. 1500 E . Lake Cook Rd. B u f f a l o Grove, I L 60089
(708)-215-8600/(800)-323-6209
Brooks I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . 70 T y l e r P l a c e South P l a i n f i e l d , NJ 07080
(908)-561-5200 Buckman L a b o r a t o r i e s I n t ' l I n c . 1256 N . McLean B l v d . Memphis, TN 38108
(901)-278-0330/(800)-727-2772 Cabot Corp. Cab-0-Si 1 D i v . R t e . 36W T u s c o l a , I L 61953
(217)-253-3370/(800)-222-6745 Calgon Corp. P . O . Box 1346 P i t t s b u r g h , PA 15230
(412)-777-8000 CasChem, I n c . 40 Avenue A Bayonne, NJ 07002
(201)-858-7900/(800)-CAS-CHEM
528
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Centerchem, I n c . 225 H i g h Ridge R d . S t a m f o r d , CT 06905
Dragoco, I n c . 10 Gorden D r i v e Totowa, NJ 07512
(203)-975-9800
(201)-256-3850
C i ba-Gei gy Corp.
Greensboro, NC 27419
Eastman Chemical Co. P . O . Box 431 K i n g s p o r t , TN 37662
(919)-632-7327/(800)-221-0453
(615)-229-4006/(800j-EASTMAN
410 Swing Rd.
CLE I n c . 11220 Grader S t , D a l l a s , T X 75238
(214)-341-4949/(800)-638-7947 CLR: D r . K . R i c h t e r GmbH Chemi sches L a b o r a t o r i um B e n n i g o n s t r a b e 25, D-I000 B e r l i n Croda, I n c . 7 Century D r . P a r s i p p a n y , N J 07054
(201)-644-4900 Cyclo Products I n c . 1922 E . 64 S t . Los A n g e l e s , CA 90001 (213)-582-6411
ECC America
5775 Peachtree-Dunwoody R d . A t l a n t a , GA 30342 (800)-843-3222 Exxon Chemi c a l Amer i cas 13501 K a t y Frwy Houston, T X 77079
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ - ~ ~ o - ~ o o o ~ ~ R o o ~ -
F a n n i n g Corp.
2450 W. Hubbard S t Chicago, I L 60612 (312)-563-1234 F e l t o n Worldwide
599 Johnson Ave. B r o o k l y n , NY 11237 Finetex, I n c .
Cyprus I n d u s t r i a1 M i n e r a l s P . 0 , Box 3419 Englewood, CO 80155
418 Falmouth Ave. Elmwood P a r k , N J 07407
(201 ) -797-4686
(800)-325-0299 F l o r i d a Food P r o d u c t s I n c . Degussa Corp. 65 C h a l l e n g e r R d . R i d g e f i e l d P a r k , N J 07660
2231 W . Hwy 44 E u s t i s , FL 32726 (904)-357-4141
(201) -641-6100 F r i t s c h e Dodge & O l c o t t I n c . Dow Chemical USA 2 0 2 0 Dow C e n t e r M i d l a n d , M I 48674
76 N i n t h Ave. New Y o r k ,
NY 10011 (212)-929-4100/(800)-221-7095
(800)-258-CHEM GE S i 1 i c o n e s
Dow C o r n i n g Corp. Box 0994 M i d l a n d , M I 48686
(517 ) -496-4000
260 Hudson R i v e r R d . W a t e r f o r d , NY 12188 (518)-237-3330/(800)-255-8886
Suppliers' Addresses
Givaudan-Roure C o r p . 100 Delawanna Ave. C l i f t o n , N J 07015 (201)-365-8000
I C 1 Americas I n c . Concord P i k e & New Murphy Rd. W i l m i n g t o n , DE 19897 (302)-575-3034/(800)-822-8215
Go1dschmi d t Chemical C o r p . 914 E . Randolph Rd. H o p e w e l l , VA 23860
I k e d a Corp. New M e x i c o B l d g . 3-1, Mar unouc h i 3-Chome Chiyoda-Ku, Tokyo 100, Japan 03-321 2-8791
(804)-541-8658/(800)-445-1809
B . F . G o o d r i c h Co. 991 1 B r e c k s v i 1 l e Rd. C l e v e l a n d , OH 44141 (216)-447-5000/(800)-331-1144
Haarman & Reimer C o r p . 60 Diamond Rd. S p r i n g f i e l d , N J 07091 (201)-912-5707/(800)-432-1559
I n o l e x Chemical Co. Jackson & Swanson S t s . P h i l a d e l p h i a , PA 19148 (215)-271-0800/(800)-521-9891 ISP: I n t e r n a t i o n a l S p e c i a l t y P r o d 1361 A l p s Rd. Wayne, NJ 07470 (201)-628-3000/(800)-848-7659
Hampshi r e Chemi c a l Co. 55 Hayden Ave. L e x i n g t o n , MA 02173 Henkel C o r p . 11501 N o r t h l a k e D r . C i n c i n n a t i , OH 45299 (513)-530-7300/(800)-543-7370 Hoechst Cel anese C o r p . 3340 W . N o r f o l k Rd. P o r t s m o u t h , VA 23703 (804)-483-7530/(800)-526-4960 Hormel P.O. Box 800 A u s t i n , MN 55912 (507)-437-5676
529
IFF: I n t e r n a t i o n a l Flavors & Fragrances 521 W . 5 7 S t . New Y o r k , NY 10019 (212)-765-5500 Kaopolite Inc. 2444 M o r r i s Ave. U n i o n , NJ 07083 (908)-789-0609 Kelco D i v . Merck & Co., I n c . 8355 A e r o D r i v e San D i e g o , CA 92123 (619)-292-4900/(800)-535-2656
H u l s America, I n c . 80 C e n t e n n i a l D r . P i scataway, NJ 08854 (908)-980-6946/(800)-526-0339
Koster-Keunen, I n c . P.O. Box 447 90 Bourne B l v d . S a y v i l l e , NY 11782 (51 6 ) -589-0456
Humko Chemical D i v . W i t c o Corp. 755 C r o s s o v e r Lane Memphis, TN 38117 (901)-684-7047
Lanaetex P r o d u c t s , I n c . 151 3 Ave. E l i z a b e t h , NJ 07206 (908)-351-9700
530
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Laurel I n d u s t r i e s , I n c .
29525 C h a g r i n B l v d . C l e v e l a n d , OH 44122 (216)-831-5747/(800)-221-1304 L i p 0 Chemicals,
Inc.
207 1 9 t h Ave. P a t e r s o n , NJ 07504
(201)-345-8600 Lonza,
Inc.
N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemical Co 10 F i n d e r n e Ave. B r i d g e w a t e r , NJ 08807
(908)-685-5000/(800)-532-1115 Nipa Laboratories, I n c . 104 H a g l e y B l d g . Concord P1aza 3411 S i l v e r s i d e Rd. W i l m i n g t o n , DE 19810
(302)-478-1522
17-17 R t e . 208 F a i r Lawn, NJ 07410
(201)-794-2400/(800)-777-1875 D r . Madis Labs I n c . 375 H u y l e r S t . South Hackensack, NJ 07606
(201)-440-5000 M c I n t y r e Group L t d . 1000 G o v e r n o r s Hwy. U n i v e r s i t y Park, I L 60466
Novarome I n c . 30 S t e w a r t P1, F a i r f i e l d , NJ 07004
(201)-575-4550 N o v i l l e E s s e n t i a l O i l Co. 1312 F i f t h S t . N o r t h Bergen, NJ 07047
(201)-867-9060
(708)-534-6200
Pen r e c o 138 P e t r o l i a S t . Karns C i t y , PA 16041
Mearl Corp.
(412)-283-5600/(800)-245-3952
41 E. 42 S t . New Y o r k ,
NY 10017 (212)-573-8500
Mobay C o r p . Mobay R d . P i t t s b u r g h , PA 15205
(412)-777-2000/(800)-662-2927 Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . 76 E . 24 St. P . O . Box 425 P a t e r s o n , NJ 07544
P e t r o l i t e Corp.
6910 E . 14 S t . T u l s a , OK 74112 (918 )-836-1601 P h i l l i p s 66 Co. 376 P h i l l i p s B l d g . Annex B a r t 1e s v i 11e, OK 74004 (806)-274-5236/(800)-858-4327 P o l y e s t h e r Corp.
61 H i l l S t .
(201)-345-8220
P . O . Drawer 5076 Southampton, NY 11969
Morflex Inc. 2110 H i g h P o i n t Rd. Greensboro, NC 27403
(516)-2a3-4400
(919)-292-1781 Morton I n t e r n a t i o n a l , I n c . 150 Andover S t . Danvers, MA 01923
(508)-774-3100
PPG I n d u s t r i e s 3938 P o r e t t D r i v e Gurnee, I L 60031
(708)-244-3410/(8OO)-CHEM-PPG
Suppliers' Addresses
Purac America I n c . 1 1 1 Barclay Blvd. L i n c o l n s h i r e Corporate Center L i n c o l n s h i r e , I L 60069
Rona EM I n d u s t r i e s 5 Skyline Drive Hawthorne, NY 10532
(708)-634-6330
(914)-592-4660
Raschi g C o r p . P . O . Box 7656 Richmond, VA 23231
Sandoz Chemi c a l s Corp. 4000 Monroe R d . C h a r l o t t e , NC 28205
(804)-222-9516
(704)-331-7234/(800)-631-8077
Reheis, I n c , 235 Snyder Ave. B e r k e l e y H e i g h t s , NJ 07922
S h e l l Chemical Co. P.O. Box 2463 Houston, TX 77002
(908)-464-1500
(713)-241-6161
Rheox, I n c . Wyckoff M i l l s R d . H i g h t s t o w n , N J 08520
Stepan Co. 22 W . F r o n t a g e Rd. N o r t h f i e l d , I L 60093
(609)-443-2320
(708)-446-7500
RITA C o r p . 1725 K i 1 kenny Woodstock, I L 60098
Sun Chemical Corp. 411 Summit Ave. C i n c i n n a t i , OH 45232
(ai5)-337-250o/(soo)-4~6-77~9
(513)-661-5950 (800)-343-2583
Rhone Poulenc I n c . P r o s p e c t P l a i n s Rd. Cranbury, NJ 08512
Sun Smart I n c . P.O. Box 1451 Wai n s c o t t , NY 1975
(609)-860-4000
(516)-324-8061
Robeco I n c a 99 Park Ave. New Y o r k , NY 10016
Sutton Laboratories, Inc. 116 Summit Ave. C i n c i n n a t i , OH 45232
(212)-986-6410
(513)-681-5950/(800)-343-2583
Robertet I n c . 125 Bauer D r . Oakland, NJ 07436
Terry Laboratories, Inc. 390 N. Wickham Rd. P . O . Box 566 Melbourne, FL 32935
(201)-337-7100
(407)-259-1630/(800)-367-2563 Roche Chemical D i v i s i on Hoffman-LaRoche, Inc. N u t l e y , NJ 07110
(201)-235-8077/(800)-526-0189
T I C Gums I n c . 4609 R i c h l y n n D r . Belcamp, MD 21017
(410 ) -273-7300 Rohm & Haas Co. Independence M a l l W P h i l a d e l p h i a , PA 19105
(215)-592-3000
531
532
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Tioxide Specialties Ltd. B i 11 ingham, C l e v e l a n d TS23 1 PS U n i t e d K i ngdom 0642-370300
V i s t a Chemical Co. P.O. Box 19029 900 T h r e a d n e e d l e Houston, T X 77224
(713)-588-3000/(800)-231-3216 Tomah P r o d u c t s 1012 T e r r a D r i v e M i l t o n , W I 53563 (608)-868-6811
Wacker S i l i c o n e s Corp. 3301 S u t t o n Rd. A d r i a n , M I 49221
(517)-264-8500/(800)-248-0063 T r i v e n t Chemical Co, 45 Ridge R d . P.O. Box 597 South R i v e r , NJ 08882 (908)-251-1116
Warner J e n k i n s o n Cosmetic C o l o r s 155 H e l e n St. South P l a i n f i e l d , NJ 07080 (800)-543-4524
3V I n c . 1500 H a r b o r B l v d . Weehawken, N J 07087 (201)-865-3600
Welch, Holme & C l a r k Co. 7 Avenue L Newark, NJ 07105 (201 )-465-1200
Unichema N o r t h America 4650 S . Racine Ave. Chicago, I L 60609 (312)-376-9000/(800)-833-2864
Whittaker, Clark & Daniels, 1000 C o o l i d g e S t . South P l a i n f i e l d , NJ 07080 (908)-561-6100
Union Camp Corp. 1600 V a l l e y Rd. Wayne, NJ 07470 ( 2 0 1 )-628-2660
W i t c o C o r p . ( A l l Groups) 1 ) O l e o S u r f a c t a n t s Group 2 ) P e t r o l e u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group 3)Polymer A d d i t i v e s Group 520 Madison Ave. New Y o r k , NY 10022 (212)-605-3600
U n i o n C a r b i d e Chemicals and P1 a s t i c s 39 O l d R i d g e b u r y Rd. Danbury, CT 06817 (203)-794-5300 R.T. V a n d e r b i l t Co. I n c 30 W i n f i e l d S t . P.O. Box 5150 N o r w a l k , CT 06856 (203)-853-1400 Van Dyk Main & W i l l i a m S t s . B e l l e v i l l e , NJ 07109 (201 )-450-3264
Zschimmer & Schwarz P . O . Box 2179 D-5420 L a h n s t e i n , West Germany
Inc.
