Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations, Volume 5

COSMETIC AND TOILETRY FORMULATIONS Second Edition Volume 5 by Ernest W. Flick NOYES PUBLICATIONS Woatwood. Now JHIOY...

Author: Ernest W. Flick

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COSMETIC AND TOILETRY FORMULATIONS Second Edition Volume 5

by

Ernest W. Flick

NOYES PUBLICATIONS Woatwood. Now JHIOY, U.S.A.

Copyright 63 1996 by h e s t W.Flick No part of this book may be reproduced a utilized in any form a by any means, electronic a mechmicpl, including photocopying, recording a by any infomation storage and retrieval system, without pcnnisSion in writing fiwn the Publisher. Libnry of Congress Catalog Card Number: 89-39099 ISBN 0-8155-1395-X Printed in the United States Published in the United States of America by Noyes Publications 369 FzirView Avenue Westwood, New Jersey 07675

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data (Revised for vol. 5)

Flick, Ernest W. Cosmetic and toiletry formulations.

1. Cosmetics. 2 Toilet preparations. I. Title. TP983.M5 1989 668l.55 89-39099 ISBN 0-8155-1218-X (v. 1) ISBN 0-8155-1306-2 (v. 2) ISBN 0-8155-1367-4 (v. 3) ISBN 0-8155-1383-6 (v. 4) ISBN 0-8155-1395-X (v. 5)

To Suzanne

Contents and Subject Index SECTION I: ANTIPERSPIRANTS AND DEODORANTS . . . . . . . . . . 1 Antiperspirant Cream ................................... 2 2 Antiperspirant Roll-On .................................. Antiperspirant Cream O N ............................... 3 Antiperspirant Cream O N Transparent. in Gel Form . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Perfumed Cream O N Transparent. in Gel Form . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Antiperspirant Roll-On .................................. 4 Antiperspirant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Clear Antiperspirant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 5 Antiperspirant Roll-On .................................. Deodorant Emulsion O N for Roll-On ....................... 6 Antiperspirant Emulsion O N . Liquid (Roll-On) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 6 Antiperspirant Emulsion O N (Roll-On) ..................... Deodorant Lotion Clear (Roll-On) .......................... 7 Deodorant Antiperspirant Lotion. Clear (Roll-On) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Antiperspirant Lotion ................................... 7 Antiperspirant Lotion (Without Alcohol) ...................... 7 Deodorant Spray Aerosol-Packed ........................... 8 Antiperspirant Spray Aerosol-Packed ........................ 8 Deodorant. Antiperspirant Spray. Aerosol-Packed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Deodorant Stick ....................................... 9 Deodorant Stick Without Alcohol ........................... 9 Deodorant Stick ...................................... 10 Deodorant Stick Formulation ............................. 11 SECTION II: BABY PRODUCTS ........................... 12 Baby Cream Soft ..................................... 13 Baby Shampoo ....................................... 15 Baby Bath .......................................... 15 Baby Cream ......................................... 14 Baby Lotion ......................................... 14 Bubble Bath for Babies and Children. Clear. Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Bubble Bath for Babies and Children. Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

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Contents and Subject Index Care Bath for Babies and Children ......................... 16 Bubble Bath for Babies and Children. Pearly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Care Bath for Babies and Children. Pearly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 Cream for Babies and Children O W ....................... 18 Cream for Babies and Children. Anhydrous . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Cream for Babies and Children W/O ....................... 19 Vulnerary Cream for Children W/O ........................ 19 Baby Cream O W ..................................... 19 Emulsion for Babies and Children O N ..................... 20 Oil for Babies and Children .............................. 20 Vulnerary Stick for Babies and Children ..................... 20 Shampoo for Babies and Children ......................... 21 Shampoo for Children. with Ampholyte. Pearly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Shampoo for Babies and Children. Pearly .................... 21 Shampoo for Babies and Children. Clear .................... 22 Shampoo for Babies and Children. with Vitamin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Shampoo for Babies and Children. with Vitamin E . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Baby Shampoo. Pearly ................................. 22 Shampoo for Babies and Children. Pearly .................... 23 Shampoo for Babies and Children. with Ampholyte. Pearly . . . . . . . 23 Shampoo for Babies and Children. Clear .................... 23

SECTION 111: BATH AND SHOWER PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Bath Oil Emulsion .................................... 25 Bath Milk Emulsion ................................... 25 Bath Oil ............................................ 25 Bath Oil. Liquid ...................................... 26 Bath Oil. Spreading .................................... 26 Bubble-Bath ........................................ 27 Bubble-Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Special Bath ......................................... 28 Bubble-Bath. Clear .................................... 29 Bubble Bath. Clear. Liquid with Protein ..................... 29 Bubble Bath. Clear. Liquid .............................. 29 Bubble Bath. Clear. Especially Skin Compatible . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Bubble Bath. Clear. with Ethereal Oil ....................... 30 Bubble Bath. Clear. Liquid .............................. 31 Vitamin Bubble Bath. Clear. Liquid ........................ 31 Bubble Bath. Clear. Liquid .............................. 32 Algae Bubble Bath. Clear. Liquid ......................... 32 Bubble Bath ......................................... 32 Bubble Bath. Clear. in Gel Form .......................... 33 Bubble Bath. Opaque. in Gel Form ........................ 33 Bubble Bath. Cloudy. Liquid ............................. 33

Contents and Subject Index

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Bubble Bath Oil for Babies and Children .................... 34 Bath Oil for Babies and Children .......................... 34 Powder for Babies and Children ........................... 34 Bubble Bath. Pearly Liquid .............................. 35 Bubble Bath with Whey Additive. Pearly .................... 35 Bubble Bath in Powder Form ............................. 36 Bubble Bath in Tablet Form with Formation of Carbonic Acid . . . . . 36 Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion ............................. 37 Facial Moisturizing Lotion ............................... 37 Bubble Bath Oil. Clear. Liquid ........................... 38 Bubble Bath Oil. Anhydrous. Clear. Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Bubble Bath Oil. Anhydrous. Clear ........................ 38 Rosemary Oil Bubble Bath .............................. 38 Care-Shower-Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 . Clear Foam Bath with Gluadin AGP ....................... 40 Stimulating. Clear Foam Bath with Balm Mint Extract . . . . . . . . . . 40 Bubble Bath with Plantaren 2000 and Essential Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Cream Bubble Bath .................................... 41 Cream Bubble Bath for Tube Filling ....................... 41 Floating Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Blooming Bath Oil with Shebu ........................... 42 Shebu Floating Bath Oil ................................ 42 Gel After Bath Freshener ................................ 43 After Bath Splash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Hand and Bath Gel .................................... 44 Dispersible Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Liquid Bubble Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Shebu Bubble Bath Powder .............................. 45 Pearlescent Shower Gel ................................. 46 Aloe Vera Herbal Shower Gel ............................ 46 Pearlescent Shower Gel ................................. 47 Pearlescent ShoGer Bath with Refattener .................... 47 Mild Pearlescent Cleansing Lotion ......................... 47 Pearlescent Shower Gel ................................. 48 Bubble Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Protein and Honey Skin Bath ............................. 49 Emollient Bath Gelee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 Shebu After Bath Splash ................................ 50 Shebu After Bath Lotion ................................ 50 Shower-Bath ........................................ 51 Fitness-Shower-Bath .................................. 54 Shower-Bath 2 in 1 ................................... 55 Shower Bath. Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Shower Bath. Clear. Liquid .............................. 56

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Contents and Subject Index Shower Bath. Clear .................................... 57 Shower Bath. Clear. Especially Skin Compatible . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Shower Bath. Clear Refatting ............................. 58 Sport Shower Bath Especially Skin Compatible . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Protqin Shower Bath ................................... 58 Shower Bath in Aerosol Form ............................ 58 Shower Bath Gel ..................................... 59 ShowerBath G e l . . .................................... 59 Silky Feel Shower Gel ................................. 60 Shower Bath. Pearly. Especially Skin Compatible . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Shower Bath. Pearly ................................... 62 Shower Bath. Pearly for Tube Filling ....................... 62 Shower Bath. Pearly. Refatting ........................... 63 Shower Bath. Pearly ................................... 63 Shower Bath. Pearly. Especially Skin Compatible . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Shower Bath & Emulsion "Two in One" ..................... 65 Pearly Sheen Shower Bath Two-in-One ..................... 65 Pearlescent Foam Bath with Refattener ...................... 65 Shower Bath 2411-1. Shower & Cream ..................... 66 Shower Bath & Emulsion Two-in-One ..................... 66 Shower Gel ......................................... 67 Shower Gel & Body Lotion .............................. 68 Pearlescent Foam Bath ................................. 68 Foam Bath Concentrate ................................. 68 Skin Conditioning Shower Gelee .......................... 69 Shebu Shower Gelee ................................... 69 Vitamin Bath Oil ..................................... 70 Herbal Bath Oil ...................................... 70 Bath Oil ............................................ 70 Lavender Bath Oil .................................... 70 Lemon Balm Bath Oil .................................. 70

SECTION IV: BEAUTY AIDS .............................. Ajinomoto Moisturizing Foundation with Ajidew. Eldew. MarineDew and Amihope ................................. Alcohol-Free Cologne ................................. All-Over AHA Moisturizer .............................. Cheek Rouge ........................................ Eye Shadow ......................................... Cleansing Emulsion O W Liquid .......................... Cleansing Emulsion ................................... Compact Powder ...................................... Nail Varnish Remover .................................. Conditioning Skin Moisturizer ............................

71 72 73 75 77 77 78 78 79 79 80

Contents and Subject Index

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Cover Cream ........................................ 81 Foundation Cream ..................................... 81 Cream Eye Shadow .................................... 82 Cream Foundation ..................................... 83 Cream Lotion O N with Ginseng Root Extract . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Skin Emulsion O W Low Viscous with Avocado Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Moisturizing Emulsion O W ............................. 84 Creamy Eye Shadow ................................... 85 86 Creamy Lotion Moisturizer . . . .......................... Moisture Balm ....................................... 86 Creamy Mascara ...................................... 87 Mascara ............................................ 87 Depilatory Cream O N ................................. 88 Depilatory Emulsion O N . High Viscous .................... 88 Eyeliner ............................................ 89 Make-up Stick ....................................... 89 Powder Stick ........................................ 89 Cover-up Stick ....................................... 89 Eye Make-up Remover, Liquid ........................... 90 90 Eye Make-up Remover in Gel Form ....................... Make-up Remover, Surfactant Based ....................... 90 Make-up Remover, Anhydrous ........................... 90 Eye Make-up Removing Stick ............................ 90 Eye Shadow Stick ..................................... 91 Eyeliner Pencil ....................................... 91 Eyebrow Pencil ...................................... 91 Make-up Cream with Pearly Gloss, O N .................... 91 Eyeshadow ......................................... 92 Face Powder with Amihope LL ........................... 92 Powder Foundation .................................... 92 Eye Shadow Cream O N ................................ 93 94 Face Cleanser, Clear, Liquid ............................. Face Cleanser ........................................ 94 Cleansing Lotion, Contains Surfactant ...................... 94 FaceMask .......................................... 95 Gel Exfoliator ........................................ 95 Face Mask O N ...................................... 96 Vitamin Face Mask O N ................................ 96 Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Facial Gel Cleanser .................................... 98 Gelled Nail Lacquer Remover ........................... 102 Icey Blue Camphorated Skin Gel (Clear) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Gentle Body Polisher ................................. 103 Gentle Facial Cleanser & Moisturizer ...................... 104

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Contents and Subject Index Hair and Skin Moisturizing Spray ........................ 105 Cheek Rouge ....................................... 105 Highly Protective Foundation ............................ 106 Water Thin Milk ..................................... 106 Lasting Strength Nail Toughener ......................... 107 Light Coverage Foundation ............................. 108 Eyeliner ........................................... 108 Lip Care Stick, Colorless ............................... 109 Lip Care Stick, Slightly Tinted. with Pearly Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Lip Care Stick with Azulene ............................ 109 Lip Salve .......................................... 109 Lipstick ........................................... 110 Lipstick, Creamy .................................... 110 Lipstick with Pearly Gloss .............................. 110 110 Lipstick, Creamy. with Pearly Gloss ....................... Lip Make-up in Cream Form with Pearly Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Lipstick ........................................... 111 Liquid Foundation .................................... 112 Powder Foundation ................................... 112 Long Wearing Creamy Lipstick .......................... 113 Lip Gloss .......................................... 113 Macroemulsion Cleansing Gel ........................... 114 Macroemulsion Fragrance Pearl .......................... 115 Make-up Emulsion O N Matting. Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Skin Emulsion. Tinted. with Pearly Gloss O N . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Rouge Emulsion. Liquid O N ........................... 116 Mascara ........................................... 117 EyeGel ........................................... 118 Mild Facial Cleanser .................................. 119 Hot Oil Treatment ................................... ‘119 Moisturizing Fluid ................................... 120 Natural Cleanser ..................................... 121 Natural Cleanser with Ritavena 5 ......................... 123 ON-Cleansing-Milk ................................. 124 Massage-Milk ...................................... 124 ON-Moisturizing-Milk ............................... 125 ON-Skin Milk ..................................... 125 Powder Cleanier ..................................... 129 Powder Cleanser with Amisoft (PW-102) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Powder Cleanser with Amisoft (PW-302) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Powder Cleanser with Amisoft (PW-502) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 PressedPowd er ...................................... 131 Face Powder with Amihope LL .......................... 131 Pressed Powder ...................................... 132

Contents and Subject Index

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Liquid Foundation .................................... 132 Pressed Powder with Amihope-LL ........................ 133 Pressed Powder Blusher with Amihope LL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Pressed Powder Eye Shadow ............................ 135 FaceMask ......................................... 135 Re-Vital Facial Toner ................................. 136 Sun-Rise Fresh Cleansing Gel ........................... 136 Rouge Compact Powder ............................... 137 Rouge Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Rouge Stick with Pearly Gloss ........................... 137 Sand Beige Oil-Free Makeup ........................... 138 Silk and Elastin Facial Firming Gel ....................... 139 Honey & Wheat Hydrating FaciaVBody Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 Skin Conditioning Treatment ............................ 140 Skin Conditioning Bath & Shower Gel ..................... 140 Skin Emulsion. Matting O N as Foam Aerosol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 Nutritive Emulsion. Fat O/W as Foam Aerosol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 Foaming Cucumber Juice Emulsion O/W Aerosol-Packed . . . . . . . 141 Skin Emulsion O/W with Placenta Extract . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Skin Emulsion O/W with Vitamin ........................ 142 Skin Emulsion O/W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142 Skin Emulsion O/W with Collagen ........................ 143 Cucumber Juice Emulsion O W .......................... 143 Herbal Emulsion O/W ................................. 143 skin Gel .......................................... 144 Skin Hydrating Moisture Trap ........................... 145 Skinoil ........................................... 146 Skin Care Oil ........................................ 146 Functional Skin Oil ................................... 146 Sparkling Skin Moisturizing Fluid with Microcapsules . . . . . . . . . . 147 Sports Gel ......................................... 148 Body Powder ....................................... 148 Sprayable Moisturizer ................................. 149 Sprayable Moisturizing Milk ............................ 150 Stick for Skin Impurities ............................... 151 Emulsion, Liquid, for Skin Impurities O/W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Vitamin E and Wheat Active Daily Facial Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . 152 Gelled Makeup Remover ............................... 152 Water-in-Oil Luxurious Makeup ......................... 153 Protective Skin Gel ................................... 153 W/O Cleansing Milk .................................. 154 W/OSkinMilk ...................................... 154

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Contents and Subject Index

SECTION V: CREAMS .................................. 155 Alpha Hydroxy Cream with Soluble Collagen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Anti-Wrinkle Treatment Cream .......................... 157 Anti-Ageing Treatment Cream .......................... 157 Balanced Emollient Cream ............................. 158 Replenishing Emollient Cream ........................... 158 Hand and Body Cream ................................ 158 Balanced Emollient Cream ............................. 159 Light Cleansing Cream ................................ 159 Replenishing Moisture Cream ........................... 159 Barrier Cream ....................................... 160 Moisture Cr& . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Body Cream ........................................ 161 Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Hand Cream ........................................ 161 CareCreamON .................................... 162 Universal Care Cream O N ............................. 162 Cleansing Cream .................................... 163 Cleansing Cream O N ................................ 166 Washing Cream O N . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 167 Cream for Skin Impurities O/W .......................... Cream for Skin Impurities, Transparent. in Gel Form O N . . . . . . . 167 Cream with Placenta Extract W/O ........................ 168 Rejuvenating Cream O W .............................. 168 168 Skin Cream O N with Collagen .......................... Day Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Hand Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Day Cream O N . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 SkinCream O N .................................... 172 Day Cream O W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Universal Day Cream O N ............................. 173 Day Cream0N ..................................... 174 Depilatory Cream .................................... 178 Hand Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Enrichment Cream ................................... 179 Emollient Body Lotion ................................ 179 Every Day Lotion .................................... 179 Facial Cleansing Cream ................................ 180 Facial Cleansing Milk ................................. 180 Foundation Cream .................................... 181 Hand Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Glycerine Cream O N Hand Cream ....................... 182 Glycerine Cream O N Transparent. in Gel Form . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Hand and Body Cream ................................ 183

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SkinCream ........................................ 184 Skin-Care Cream .................................... 184 185 "Light and White" Day Cream ........................... Light Body Cream ................................... 186 Moisturizing Enrichment Cream .......................... 186 Light Emollient Cream ................................ 187 Almond Oil Cr& ................................... 187 187 Almond Oil Cream with Protein .......................... Light Enrichment Cream ............................... 188 Daily Nourishing Cream ............................... 188 Make-up Cream O/W ................................. 189 Massage Cream O/W .................................. 190 Massage Cream. Anhydrous. Removable by Washing . . . . . . . . . . 190 Massage Oil ........................................ 190 Moisture Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 Moisture Cream for Dry Skin ........................... 193 193 Oil Free Night Cream ................................. Moisturizing Cream .................................. 194 Emollient Cream ..................................... 194 Day Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 O.T.C. Type Moisturizing Cream ......................... 195 Moisturizing Protective Day Care Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Light Everyday Cream ................................ 196 Everyday Moisturizing Cream ........................... 196 Moisturizing Body Cream .............................. 197 Every Day Hand Cream ............................... 197 Moisturizing Cream O/W .............................. 198 Moisturizing Skin Cream ............................... 200 Nail Care Cream W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Cucumber Juice Cream O/W ............................. 201 Alcohol Cream O/W .................................. 201 Night Cream ........................................ 202 Care Cream W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 ColdCreamW/O .................................... 204 Night and Care Cream W/O ............................ 205 Care Cream W/O .................................... 205 SkinCreamW/O .................................... 205 O.T.C. Type Moisturizing Cream ......................... 206 ON-Collagen-Cream ................................ 207 HandCream ........................................ 207 ON-Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Protective Moisture Cream ............................. 212 Very Light Cream .................................... 212

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Contents and Subject Index Protective Day Cream .................................. Protective Moisturizing Cream ........................... Light Repair Cream .................................. Rejuvenating Cream W/O .............................. Herbal Cream W/O ................................... Vitamin Cream W/O .................................. Replenishing Cream .................................. Ritavena Hand and Body Cream ......................... Therapeutic Barrier Cream .............................

212 213 213 214 214 214 215 216 216 SkinCream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Skin Cream, Anhydrous ................................ 218 Skin Cream O/W Transparent in Gel Form . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Cream Base. Anhydrous ............................... 218 218 Skin Cream. Anhydrous ................................ Skin Cream O/W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 Skin Cream O/W with Shea Butter ........................ 219 220 Skin Cream O/W .................................... Skin Cream O/W Fluid Type ............................ 220 skin Cream w / o .................................... 220 Skin Cream O/W (Soft Cream) .......................... 221 221 Day Cream O/W ..................................... 221 Day Cream O/W (Soft Cream) ........................... 222 Skin Cream. Tinted Matting O N ......................... Skin Cream. Tinted. with Pearly Gloss O/W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 Rouge Cream. Anhydrous .............................. 222 Skin Cream W/O .................................... 223 Care Cream W/O .................................... 224 224 Skin Cream W/O .................................... Skin Cream W/O with Collagen .......................... 225 Care Cream O/W with Azulene and Allantoin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 Anti-Wrinkle Cream. Anhydrous ......................... 225 Skin Cream W/O with St. John’s Wort Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Skin Cream O/W with Avocado Oil ....................... 226 226 Glycerine Cream O/W with Silicone ...................... Skin Cream W/O with Shea Butter ........................ 227 227 Skin Cream O/W .................................... Skin Protecting Cream O/W with Silicone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 Skin Protecting Cream O/W Against Solvents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 Skin Protecting Cream W/O Against Aqueous Solutions . . . . . . . . 228 Smoothing Care Cream ................................ 229 Emollient Care Cream ................................. 229 Night Cream ........................................ 229 Soft Touch Cleansing Cream ............................ 230 Care Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230

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Sunflower Oil Cream ................................. 231 Sunflower Oil Cream with Protein ........................ 231 Light Moisturizing Cream .............................. 231 Tinted-Day-Cream ................................... 232 Universal Day Cream O/W ............................. 233 Day CreamO/W ..................................... 233 Skin Cream O/W .................................... 233 Universal Skin Cream O/W ............................. 234 Skin Cream O/W with Pleasurable Melting-on Effect . . . . . . . . . . 234 Day Cream0/W ..................................... 234 Universal Skin Cream W/O ............................. 235 Universal Skin Cream W/O Hydrocarbon-Free . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 Universal Skin Cream W/O ............................. 235 Skin Cream W/O .................................... 237 Urban Protection Day Cream ............................ 238 Vitamin Cream O/W .................................. 239 Vitamin Cream with Placenta Extract O/W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239 Vitamin Cream W/O .................................. 240 Vitamin Cream O/W .................................. 240 Cream O/W with Elastin ............................... 240 Wash Cream ........................................ 241 Cleansing Cream .................................... 241 Washing Cream ..................................... 242 Day Cream ......................................... 242 Skin Cream ........................................ 242 Water in Oil Foundation Cream .......................... 243 Vanishing Cream .................................... 243 W/O-Cream ........................................ 244 All Round-Cream .................................... 248 W/O Cream with Eldew ............................... 249 HandCream ........................................ 249

SECllON VI: HAIR CARE PRODUCTS .................... 250 Aerosol Finishing Spray ............................... 251 Shaping Spray Hair Spray/Spray Gel ...................... 251 Aerosol Hair Spray. Regular Hold ........................ 252 Aerosol Hair Spray. Super Hold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 Aerosol Hair Spray. Maximum Hold ...................... 252 Aerosol Hair Spray Formulation Containing Water . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 Aerosol Hairspray "100%V0C"-CMB Horizon System . . . . . . . . 254 Aerosol Hairspray. Hydrocarbon Propellant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254 Aerosol Hairspray .................................... 254 Aerosol Spray ....................................... 255 Alcohol-Free Aerosol Hair Spray ......................... 257

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Contents and Subject Index 257 Shine and Hold Spray ................................. Alcohol-Free Aerosol Hair Spray ......................... 258 258 80% VOC Pump Hair Spray ............................ Alcohol-Free Styling Gel .............................. 259 Hair Setting Gel ..................................... 259 Alcohol-Free Styling Mousse ........................... 260 Setting Lotion ....................................... 260 Aqua-Vital Moisturizing Spray (Pump Type) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 Every Day Wave Gel Activator .......................... 261 Birch Hair Tonic .................................... 262 Hair Tonic, Oily ..................................... 262 Hair Tonic, Fat-Free . . . . ; ............................. 262 Hair Tonic for Greasy Hair ............................. 262 Bleaching Cream .................................... 263 Bleaching Emulsion .................................. 263 Bleaching Oil, Gelatinizing ............................. 263 Blow Drying Lotion .................................. 264 Blow Drying Lotion, Clear ............................. 264 Blow Drying Solution, Aerosol-Packed .................... 264 Bodifying Sculpting Lotion ............................. 265 55% VOC Pump Hair Spray ............................ 265 Brushing Gel ....................................... 266 Hair Rinse ......................................... 266 Brushing Lotion ..................................... 267 Hair Brushing Lotion ................................. 267 Cationic Thermal Styling Mousse (Nonaerosol, for Foamers) . . . . . 268 Firm Hold Cationic Hair Spray .......................... 268 Cold Wave Cream ................................... 269 Hair Straightening Cream .............................. 269 Cold Wave Cream ................................... 270 Cold Wave Emulsion ................................. 270 Cold Wave Emulsion, Foaming .......................... 271 Cold Wave Solution, Foaming, Clear ...................... 271 Cold Wave Solution, Clear, Foaming ...................... 271 Cold Wave Fixative. Foaming ........................... 272 Cold Wave Fixative, Foaming, in Emulsion Form . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 Cold Wave Fixative in Emulsion Form ..................... 272 Cold Wave Fixative, Foaming ........................... 273 Cold Wave Fixative with Bromate ........................ 273 Cold Wave Fixative, Foam, Aerosol-Packed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 Base for Hair Dye Creams .............................. 273 Conditioner ........................................ 274 Hair Gel ........................................... 275 Hair Fixative ....................................... 275

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Conditioner ........................................ 276 Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 Conditioning Protein Hair Gel ........................... 277 Hair Setting Gel ..................................... 277 Conditioning Rinse Aerosol-Packed, Remains on Hair . . . . . . . . . . 278 Conditioning Rinse. Aerosol-Packed ...................... 278 Hair Conditioner. Aerosol-Packed ........................ 278 Conditioning Setting Lotion. Clear ......................... 279 Conditioning Setting Lotion. Cloudy ...................... 279 Setting Lotion. Clear. Oily .............................. 279 Cream Rinse ........................................ 280 Curl Activator ...................................... 283 Wave Lotion (Buffered) ............................... 283 Economy Creme Rinse Conditioner ....................... 284 "Light" Creme Rinse Conditioner ......................... 284 Extra-Firm Holding Hairspray ........................... 285 Firm Holding Hairspray ................................ 285 Extra Firm Holding Hairspray ........................... 286 80% VOC Hairspray .................................. 286 Firm Holding Hairspray ................................ 287 Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287 Firm Holding Luster Spritz ............................. 288 Conditioning Firm Hold Hair Spray ....................... 288 Medium Hold Sheen Spray ............................. 288 Foam Conditioner for Body and Volume. Aerosol-Packed . . . . . . . 289 Setting Lotion. Aerosol-Packed .......................... 289 Foam Conditioner .................................... 289 Foaming Anti-Dandruff Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290 Flexible Styler Hair Spray .............................. 290 Pemethyl Non-Aerosol Hair Spray-Low VOC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290 Gel Curl Activator with Lanolin .......................... 291 Clear Curl Activator Gel ............................... 291 Hair Brushing Lotion ................................. 292 Hair Conditioner with CAE ............................. 293 Setting Lotion ....................................... 293 Hair Conditioner with Guar Derivative ..................... 294 Vitamin Lecithin Hair Conditioner. Pearly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294 Hair Conditioner with Jojoba Oil Substitute . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294 Hair Conditioning Gel ................................. 295 Hair Liquid (Soft Type) ................................ 295 Hair Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296 Hair Tonic ......................................... 296 Hair Dressing Cream O W . with Allantoin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297 Hair Dressing Gel. Transparent .......................... 297

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Contents and Subject Index Hair Dressing Gel .................................... 297 Hair Dressing Gel. Oily ................................ 297 Hair Moisturizer ..................................... 298 Hair Pomade ....................................... 298 Hair Relaxer ........................................ 299 Hair Rinse Emulsion .................................. 300 Hair Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .300 Hair Rinse, Clear, Fat Free ............................. 300 Hair Rinse Foam, Aerosol-Packed ........................ 300 Hair Sculpturing Treatment ............................. 301 Flexible Hold Styling Mousse ........................... 301 Hair Setting Cream ................................... 302 Permanent Wave ..................................... 302 Cold Perm (Carbonated) ............................... 302 Hairspray .......................................... 303 Medium Hold Hair Spray .............................. 304 Firm HoldinglHigh Humidity Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 Hairspray .......................................... 305 Pump Setting Spray (100% VOC) ........................ 307 Pump Setting Spray (80% VOC) ......................... 307 Hair Spray, Aerosol-Packed ............................ 308 Hair Dressing Cream O N .............................. 308 Hair Dressing Cream W/O .............................. 308 High Solids Hair Spray-80% VOC ....................... 309 High Solids Hair Spray, Innovative 80% Equivalent . . . . . . . . . . . 309 Instant Hair Conditioner, Fat-Free, Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 Hair Conditioning Rinse, Clear .......................... 310 Instant Hair Conditioner with Jojoba Oil Substitute . . . . . . . . . . . . 311 Conditioning Rinse ................................... 311 Conditioning Rinse with Jojoba Oil Substitute . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311 Conditioning Rinse with Protein .......................... 311 Intensive Hair Conditioner Foam. Aerosol-Packed . . . . . . . . . . . . 312 Instant Hair Conditioning Cream ......................... 312 Instant Hair Conditioner Foam, Aerosol-Packed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313 Protein Conditioning Rinse, Aerosol-Packed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313 Instant Hair Conditioning Cream ......................... 314 Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion ....................... 314 Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion with Pearly Gloss . . . . . . . . . . 314 Intensive Hair Conditioning Cream ....................... 315 Intensive Hair Conditioning Cream, Herbal Pack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315 Intensive Hair Conditioning Cream, Vitamin Pack . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315 Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion ....................... 316 Intensive Hair Conditioning Emulsion ..................... 317 Intensive Hair Conditioning Emulsion for Dry Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . 318

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Instant Hair Copditioning Emulsion. Clouding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319 Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion ....................... 319 Conditioning Rinse with Guar Derivative . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319 Keratin Creme Dry Hair Dressing ........................ 320 Keratin Infused Hair Treatment .......................... 321 Extra Rich Conditioner ................................ 321 Light HoldinglBody Building Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322 Forever Curls Hair Spray ............................... 322 Conditioning Firm Hold Hair Spray ....................... 322 Liquid Protein Protective Hair Finish ...................... 323 Wheat Germ Foaming Conditioner ........................ 323 Low Cost 80% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 Superhold Pump Hair Spray ............................. 324 Maximum Keratin Therapy (for extremely damaged hair) . . . . . . . 325 Clear Leave-On Hair Conditioner ........................ 325 Mink Anti-Dandruff Hair Groom ......................... 326 Cream Rinse ........................................ 326 Moisturizing Styling Spray ............................. 327 Hair Conditionerminse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .327 Non-Aerosol Hair Spray wPennethy1 101A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328 Permethyl Non-Aerosol Hair Spray ....................... 328 Spritz-A-Style Hair Spray ............................. 328 Non-Lye Hair Relaxer Cream ........................... 329 Clear Gel Hair Pomade ................................ 329 Professional Care Intensive Conditioner .................... 330 Cream Hair Conditioner ............................... 330 Professional Treatment Conditioner ....................... 331 “Light” Creme Rinse Conditioner ......................... 331 Protein & Lanolin Hot Oil Treatment ...................... 332 Pump Type Hair Spray ................................ 332 Pump Hair Spray .................................... 333 Hair Styling Gel ...................................... 333 Pump Hair Spray .................................... 334 Aerosol Spray ....................................... 334 Pump Hair Spray Regular Hold .................................... 335 ...................................... Super Hold 332 Maximum Hold .................................. 335 Pump Setting Conditioning Mousse ....................... 336 Setting *Lotion ....................................... 336 80% VOC DME Aerosol Hair Spray ...................... 336 Pump Spray ........................................ 337 Setting Foam ....................................... 337 Setting Conditioning Mousse ............................ 338

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Contents and Subject Index Extra-Hold Conditioning Mousse ......................... 338 Setting-Conditioning Mousse. Aqueous-Alcoholic . . . . . . . . . . . . 339 Styling Mousse ...................................... 339 Setting Lotion. Clear. in Gel Form ........................ 340 Setting Lotion. Clear. Liquid ............................ 340 Conditioning Setting Lotion. Clear ........................ 340 Setting Lotion. Foam. Aerosol-Packed ..................... 341 Setting Lotion. Extra Strong. Aerosol-Packed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341 Setting Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342 Setting Conditioning Mousse ............................ 342 Pump Setting Mousse ................................. 342 Shine N' Setgtyling & Moisturizing Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343 Silk and Soy Styling5low Drying Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 Moisturizing Styling Spray ............................. 344 Silky Soft Conditioner for Bodied Hair ..................... 345 Spray Leave-On Conditioner ............................ 345 Simply Hair ........................................ 346 Styling Mousse ...................................... 346 347 Simply Wheat Non-Aerosol Hair Spray .................... 80% VOC Aerosol Hairspray Formulation Extra Hold . . . . . . . . . . 347 80% VOC Aerosol Hairspray Formulation Super Hold . . . . . . . . . 347 Smooth and Shine Keratin Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348 Pearly Lotion Conditioner .............................. 348 349 Soy Hydrating Hair Therape ............................ Foaming Conditioner .................................. 349 Soy Infused Hair Treatment ............................. 350 Mild Pearl Conditioner ................................ 350 Spray Gel .......................................... 351 Styling Gel with Shellac ............................... 352 High Solids 55% VOC Pump Spray ....................... 352 StylingMousse ...................................... 353 Super-Hold Hair Spray ................................ 354 Aerosol Hair Spray ................................... 354 Hairspray (Mechanically Actuated) ........................ 354 Ultra Rich Conditioner ................................ 355 Hair Relaxer ........................................ 355 Vegetable Creme Hair Dressing .......................... 356 Clear Conditioner .................................... 356 Water-Based Hair Sprays .............................. 357 Water-Based Pump Hair Spray .......................... 358 Hair Spritzing Spray. Non-Aerosol ....................... 358 Wet Gel. Alcohol-Free ................................ 359 Wet Gel ........................................... 359 Hair Oil ........................................... 359

Contents and Subject Index

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Wet Gel with Glitter Effect. Contains Alcohol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360 360 WetGel ........................................... Wet Gel with Reduced Alcohol Content .................... 361 Wet Gel, Alcohol-Free ................................ 361 Wheat Moisturizing and Styling Gel ....................... 362 362 Hi-Fashion Hair Sculpture Gel .......................... 3 in 1 Professional Conditioning Mousse with Sunscreen . . . . . . . . 363 55% VOC DME(HFC-152a Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364 55% VOC Pump Hair Spray ............................ 364 80% VOC Non-Aerosol Hair Spray ....................... 365 80% VOC Pump Hair Spray with Gantrez C-425 and 365 Gantrez XL-80 .................................... 80% VOC Pump Hair Spray ............................ 366 Non-Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .366 80% VOC Aerosol Hairspray Formulation, Stiff Feel . . . . . . . . . . 366 80% VOC Pump Hair Spray ............................ 367 80% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray ........................... 367 80% VOC Pump Hair Spray ............................ 368 368 Non-Aerosol Hair Spray ............................... 80% VOC Aerosol Hairspray Formulation, Stiff Feel . . . . . . . . . . 368 80% VOC Pump Hair Spray with Gantrez V-225, Advantage V and Gantrez XL-80 ................................. 369 Alcohol-Free Styling Mist .............................. 369 80% VOC Shine and Hold Spray ......................... 370 370 Non-Aerosol 80% VOC Hair Spray ....................... 370 Firm Holding Hairspray ................................ 371 80% VOC Super Hold Hair Spray ........................ 80% VOC Hairspray .................................. 371 SECTION W:INSECT REPELLENTS ..................... Insect Repellent Cream O/W ............................ Insect Repellent Emulsion O N . Liquid .................... Insect Repellent Oil. Alcoholic .......................... Insect Repellent Stick ................................. Insect Repellent Spray. Aerosol-Packed ....................

372 373 373 373 374 374

SECTION VIII: LOTIONS ............................... 375 Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376 Light Hand Lotion ................................... 376 Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .377 Hand and Body Lotion ................................ 377 Barrier Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378 Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379 Skin Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380

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Contents and Subject Index Body Lotion ........................................ Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Body Lotion ........................................ Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Body Lotion ........................................ Moisture Lotion ..................................... Cationic Conditioning Lotion ............................ Cleansing Lotion. Liquid ............................... Cleansing Liquid .................................... Cleansing Lotion .................................... Cleansing Lotion. Pearly ............................... Deodorant. Cleansing Lotion. Liquid. Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cleansing Lotion. Clear. Soap Free. Especially Skin Compatible . . Cleansing Lotion. Pearly. Soap Free. Especially Skin Compatible ....................................... Cleansing Lotion. Cloudy .............................. Collagen and Cocoa Butter Skin Lotion .................... Conditioning Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dry Skin Care Lotion ................................. Emollient Care Lotion ................................. Cleansing Lotion .................................... Viscous Body Milk ................................... Emollient Fluid ...................................... Cleansing Lotion .................................... Emollient Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . General Hand and Body Lotion .......................... Hand and Body Lotion ................................ Emollient Lotion ..................................... Light Body Lotion (Cold Mix) ........................... Emollient Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Light Body Lotion ................................... FaceLotion ........................................ Herbal Face Lotion ................................... Astringent Tonic ..................................... Fragrance Lotion .................................... Emollient Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gentle Cleansing Lotion ............................... MilkLotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gentle Cleansing Lotion ............................... Intensive Treatment Lotion ............................. Light Protective Day Lotion ............................ Pearlescent Lotion ................................... Low Solids Mild Cationic Lotion .........................

381 381 382 382 383 384 385 387 387 387 388 388 388 389 389 390 391 392 393 393 393 394 394 395 395 395 396 397 398 398 399 399 399 400 401 402 402 403

404 405 406 406 407

Contents and Subject Index

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407 Normal Skin Lotion .................................. Lubridem Type Lotion ................................ 408 Lubridexm Type Lotion with Ritavena 5 .................... 409 Low Solids Anionic Lotion with Ritavena 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409 Mild Lotion with Amihope ............................. 410 W/O Lotion with Eldew ............................... 410 Moisturizing Hand and Body Lotion ....................... 411 Regenerative Lotion .................................. 411 Sunflower Oil Body Lotion ............................. 411 Moisturizing Lotion .................................. 412 Body Lotion ........................................ 413 Moisturizing Lotion .................................. 414 Hand and Body Lotion ................................ 414 Moisturizing Skin Lotion ............................... 415 Emollient Skin Lotion ................................. 415 Natural Collagen, Aloe and Lanolin Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . 416 O N Broad-Spectrum Protective Moisturizing Lotion with Vitamins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417 O N Hand and Body Lotion ............................ 418 Lanolin Hand and Body Lotion .......................... 418 Washing Lotion ..................................... 419 Handwashing-Paste .................................. 420

SECI'ION Ix: S H A M P O O S ............................... 421 Amino Moisture Balance Shampoo ........................ 422 Shampoo .......................................... 422 Amino-Soy Revital Shampoo ........................... 423 Shampoo for Permed Hair .............................. 423 Anti-Dandruff Shampoo ............................... 424 Shampoo for Greasy Hair .............................. 426 SulfurShampoo ..................................... 426 Shampoo. with Azulene. Clear ........................... 426 Herbal Shampoo. Clear ................................ 426 Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with Ritavena 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 427 Silicone Shampoo with Ritavena 5 ........................ 428 Balance Shampoo .................................... 429 Shampoo with Care Additive ............................ 429 Shampoo with Plantaren PS 10 .......................... 429 Clear Shampoo ................................ ; . . . . . 430 Mild. Clear Care Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 430 Clear Shampoo with Panthenol .......................... 430 Clear Shampoo with Protein ............................ 431 Clear Shampoo with Hydrolyzed Keratin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 431 Mild. Clear Shampoo with Keratin ........................ 431

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Contents and Subject Index

Clear and Bright Shampoo Plus Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432 Conditioning. Anti-Dandruff Shampoo ..................... 433 Conditioning Shampoo ................................ 434 Shampoo .......................................... 435 Conditioning Shampoo ................................ 436 Clear Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 436 Conditioning Shampoo ................................ 437 After-Perm Conditioning Shampoo ....................... 437 Conditioning Shampoo ................................ 438 Neutralizing Shampoo ................................. 438 Conditioning-Shampoo ................................ 439 Antidandruff-Shampoo ................................ 442 Conditioning Shampoo. Clear ........................... 443 Anti-Dandruff Shampoo. Clear ........................... 443 Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with Sulfur ...................... 443 Cream Shampoo with Protein ............................ 444 Herbal Shampoo in Cream Form ......................... 444 Softening Shampoo in Cream Form with Guar Derivative . . . . . . . 444 Cream Shampoo with Ampholyte ......................... 444 Cristal Clear Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 445 Everyday Mild Conditioning Shampoo ..................... 446 Economy Shampoo ................................... 446 Family Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447 Collagen Gel Shampoo ................................ 447 Frequent-Use Antidandruff Shampoo Plus Conditioner . . . . . . . . . 448 Gentle Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449 Hair Repair Shampoo (Shampoo for Damaged air) . . . . . . . . . . . . 450 Ethnic Hair Care. Cream Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450 Hair Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 451 Herbal Shampoo. Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 457 Dead Nettle Extract Shampoo. Clear ...................... 457 Fruit Shampoo (Apple) pH-Balanced ...................... 457 Shampoo. Clear. Liquid. Very Acidic ...................... 457 Shampoo with Ampholyte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 457 Herbal Shampoo. Pearly ............................... 458 Mild. Pearly Gloss Shampoo ............................ 458 Shampoo for Dry Hair. with Protein ....................... 458 Protein Shampoo. Very Skin Compatible . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458 Keratin Neutralizing Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 459 Wheat Germ Conditioning Shampoo ....................... 459 Liquid Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 460 Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 460 Mild. Clear Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461

Contents and Subject Index

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Pearlescent Shampoo with Protein ........................ 461 Mild Conditioning Shampoo ............................ 462 Conditioning Shampoo for Treated Hair .................... 462 Milk Powder Shampoo ................................ 463 Shampoo. with Collagen. Pearly .......................... 463 Sulfur Shampoo. Pearly ................................ 463 Pearly Gloss Shampoo with Protein ....................... 463 Non-Silicone Conditioning Shampoo ...................... 464 Oil Shampoo in Clear Form ............................. 466 Mink Oil Shampoo. Clear .............................. 466 Oil Shampoo. Pearly .................................. 466 Oil Shampoo with Egg. Pearly ........................... 466 Paste Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 467 Self Adjusting Shampoo ............................... 467 Pearled Acid Balanced Geropon T-77 Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468 Clear Geropon T-77 Shampoo ........................... 468 Pearlescent Shampoo with Hydrolyzed Almond Protein . . . . . . . . . 469 Mild. Pearlescent Shampoo with Protein .................... 469 Pearlescent Shampoo .................................. 469 Pearlized Mink Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 470 Low Irritation Shampoo ................................ 470 Pearly Gloss Fruit Shampoo (Apple) pH-Balanced . . . . . . . . . . . . 471 Acidic Shampoo. Pearly ............................... 471 Anti-Dandruff Shampoo. Pearly .......................... 471 Pearly Gloss Shampoo with Protein. Slightly Acidic . . . . . . . . . . . 472 Shampoo with Azulene. Pearly ........................... 472 Pearly Gloss Shampoo. Softening ......................... 472 Special Shampoo for Dry Hair ........................... 472 Professional Formula Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 473 Tear Free 2 1 Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 473 Re-Nu Shampoo for Thinning Hair ....................... 474 Neutralizer Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 474 Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 475 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 475 Shampoo. Aerosol-Packed .............................. 476 Shampoo Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476 Shampoo in Aerosol Form .............................. 476 Baby Shampoo in Aerosol Form ......................... 476 Shampoo in Powder Form. Surfactant-Free . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476 Shampoo. Clear. Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 477 Shampoo. with Hair-Care Effect ......................... 478 Shampoo for Daily Use ................................ 478 Anti-Dandruff Shampoo ............................... 478 Shampoo in Cream Form ............................... 479

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Contents and Subject Index Cream Shampoo with Egg .............................. 479 Shampoo Plus Conditioner .............................. 480 Shampoo with Ampholyte .............................. 481 Protein-Shampoo .................................... 481 Shampoo for Structurally Damaged Hair .................... 481 Multivitamin-Shampoo ................................ 481 Shampoo with Ampholyte .............................. 482 Shampoo Clear, Liquid ................................ 482 Shampoo Especially Skin Compatible ...................... 482 Shampoo, Clear ..................................... 482 Shampoo, with Sulfosuccinate ........................... 482 Shampoo with Ampholyte .............................. 483 Shampoo Concentrate, Pearly ............................ 483 Herbal Shampoo, Pearly ............................... 483 Shampoo with Conditioning Effect ........................ 484 Shampoo, Mild . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .484 Shampoo with Jojoba Oil Substitute ....................... 485 Conditioning Shampoo, Pearly ........................... 485 Shampoo, Pearly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 485 Shampoo, Cloudy .................................... 488 Anti-Dandruff Shampoo, Cloudy ......................... 488 Shampoo, Pearly ..................................... 488 Shampoo Plus Conditioner Plus W Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 489 Shampoo Shower Bath Combination, Pearly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 490 Lecithin Shampoo, Pearly .............................. 490 Lecithin-Egg Shampoo, Pearly .......................... 490 Vitamin Shampoo, Pearly .............................. 490 Shampoo, with Vitamin E .............................. 491 Shampoo with Ampholyte in Gel Form ..................... 491 Shampoo in Gel Form ................................. 491 Shampoo with Sulfosuccinate ............................ 492 Shampoo with Jojoba Oil Substitute ....................... 492 Shampoo for Greasy Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 492 Shampoo for Sensitive Scalps ........................... 492 Silk Neutralizing Shampoo ............................. 493 Enriched Protein and Honey Shampoo ..................... 493 Softening Shampoo, Pearly ............................. 494 Silken Sheen Shampoo, Softening ........................ 494 Vege-Clean Conditioning Shampoo ....................... 495 495 High Foaming 2 in 1 Shampoo .......................... Vitamin Shampoo, Pearly .............................. 496 Pearly Gloss Shampoo with Arnica Tincture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 496 Pearly Gloss Shampoo with Egg ......................... 496 Wash N Style Family Shampoo .......................... 497

Contents and Subject Index

xxxi

Wheat Gem Oil and Honey Shampoo ..................... Pearlescent Cream Shampoo ............................ Wig Shampoo ....................................... Wig Shampoo. Cationic ................................ 2-in-1 Conditioning Shampoo ...........................

498 498 499 499

SECTION X SHAVING PRODUCTS ....................... Aftershave Balm .................................... After-Shave Gel ..................................... After Shave Tonic .................................... Aftershave Gel ...................................... Re-Shave Lotion .................................... Shaving Cream ...................................... Shaving Foam, Aerosol-Packed .......................... Shaving Lotion for Use Before Electric Shaving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shaving Lotion for Use After Shaving .....................

502 503 507 507 508 508 509 510 511 511

500

SECIlON XI: SOAPS AND HAND CLEANERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 512 Ajinomoto Solid Bar AI-KK ............................ 513 Ajinomoto Clear Soap with Amisoft ....................... 513 Anti-Bacterial Handsoap ............................... 514 Emollient Hand Cleaner ............................... 514 Conditioning Cleansing Bar ............................. 515 Conditioning Hand Cleaner ............................. 516 Emollient Liquid Hand Soap ............................ 516 Cream Soap ........................................ 517 Bar Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .518 Cream Soap ........................................ 518 Emollient Hand Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 519 Clear Emollient Hand Soap ............................. 519 Liquid Soap ........................................ 520 Liquid Waterless Hand Cleaner .......................... 522 522 Liquid Soap ........................................ Lotion Hand Cleaner with Abrasive and Ritavena 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . 523 Shebu Bar Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 524 Shebu Glycerine Bar Soap .............................. 524 Soap Base Beauty Bar ................................. 524 Shebu Bar Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 525 Shebu Glycerine Bar Soap .............................. 525 Synthetic Detergent (SYNDET) Cleansing Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526 Cream Hand Cleanser ................................. 526 Waterless Hand Cleaner ............................... 527

xxxii

Contents and Subject Index

SECIlON XU: SUN CARE PRODUCTS ..................... 528 After Sun Lotion ...................................... 529 SunTan Cream ..................................... 529 SunTan Oil ........................................ 529 After-Sun-Milk ..................................... 530 Moisturizing Hydrogel with B-Glucan ..................... 531 Dry Touch Physical Sunscreen ........................... 532 High SPF Sunscreen Cream ............................. 533 Low Solids Highly Emollient Suntan Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 534 Sun Care DIN Standard Reference (USFDA Tentative Final 534 Monograph) ...................................... Nourishing UVB Gel Sunscreen .......................... 535 Bain de Soleil Type Orange Gelee ........................ 535 ON-Sun-Screen-Milk ............................... 536 Sprayable Sunscreen .................................. 537 Waterproof Sunscreen (SPF 12 ........................... 539 Sprayable Sunscreen Based on Ti02 ...................... 540 Sun Block Lotion .................................... 541 Suncare Product with Titanium Dioxide .................... 542 Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 542 Sun Protection Gel, Approx . SPF8 ........................ 543 Waterproof Aerosol Sunscreen (SPF10) .................... 543 Sunscreen Containing Emollient Cream .................... 544 Sunscreen Lotion .................................... 544 Sunscreen Cream .................................... 545 After-Sun Lotion .................................... 545 Sun Screen Cream O N ............................... 546 Sun Screen Emulsion O N , Liquid ........................ 547 Sun Screen Emulsion O N with Repellent, Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . 548 Sun Screen Oil ...................................... 548 Sun Screen Oil with Repellent ........................... 548 Sunscreen Lotion wNV-Titan M212 ...................... 549 Sunscreen Lotion wNV-Titan M262 ...................... 549 Sun Screen Stick with Total Light Protection (Sun Blocker) . . . . . . 550 Lipstick with Light Protection ........................... 550 Sun Screen Spray Aerosol-Packed ........................ 550 Sun Screen Spray Low-Fat Aerosol-Packed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 550 Sun Shield Day Cream ................................ 551 PABA Free Sunscreen Lotion ........................... 551 Sun Tan Cream ..................................... 552 Sun Tan Lotion W/O ................................. 555 USFDA Standard SPF 4.11 Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 555 Suntan Lotion with UV Protection ........................ 556 Coppertone Type Self Tanner ........................... 556

Contents and Subject Index xxxiii Tanning Oil with Shebu ............................... 557 Moisturizing Suntan Oil. Coppertone Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 557 558 Ti02 OiVWater Sunscreen Lotion ........................ Ti02 Sunscreen ..................................... 558 Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof Sunscreen ............... 559 Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof Sunscreen with Pemulen TR-1 and Carbopl Ultrez 10 Estimate SPF-18 . . . . . . . . . . . . 560 Transparent Sun-Block Cream ........................... 561 562 Waterproof Sunscreen (SPF 12) .......................... SunTan Cream ..................................... 562 Waterproof Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15) ..................... 563 Waterproof Sunscreen with Ultrafine Ti02 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 565 ZnO/riO2. Sunscreen Lotion. SPF-15 ..................... 565 Water Resistant Sunscreen .............................. 566 567 Water Resistant Sunscreen Lotion ........................ Sunblock .......................................... 567 568 W/O SPF20 Sunscreen with Eldew ........................ 568 Sunscreen Lip Balm with Eldew .........................

SECTION XIXI: MISCELLANEOUS ........................ 569 Cleanser. Clear. Liquid ................................ 570 Cleanser. Disinfecting. Transparent. in Gel Form . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 570 Footbath. Fungicide. Liquid ............................. 570 Washing Cream for Tube Filling ......................... 570 Clear Golden Hydrogel ................................ 571 Glycerol Gel Base .................................... 571 Dentifrice Gel ....................................... 572 Denture Cleanser in Powder Form ........................ 573 573 Denture Cleaner in Tablet Form .......................... 573 Denture-Cleaning Tablets .............................. Detackification of Carbomer Gel ......................... 574 575 Liposome Gel ....................................... Mouth-Wash Gargle. Foaming ........................... 576 Mouth-Wash Gargle. Emulsifying ........................ 576 Oil-Lipsome-Gel .................................... 577 Vitamin-Lipsome-Gel ................................ 577 Personal Hygiene Cleansers. Cleaner. Disinfectant. Clear . . . . . . . . 578 Cleanser. Disinfectant. Clear ............................ 578 Cleanser. Bactericide. Clear. Liquid ....................... 578 Cleanser. Disinfecting. Aerosol-Packed .................... 578 Personal Hygiene Cleansing Emulsions (Cleansers in Emulsion Form for Personal Hygiene). Cleansing Lotion. Disinfecting. Pearly ........................................... 579 579 Cleansing Lotion. Disinfecting. Pearly .....................

xxxiv

Contents and Subject Index

Personal Hygiene Spray ................................ 579 Personal Hygiene Spray (Dry Spray) ...................... 579 Quick Emulsifying Base-A ............................. 580 Quick Emulsifying Base-B ............................. 580 Quick Emulsifying Base-C ............................. 580 Shampoo Concentrate for Dogs and Cats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 582 Flea and Tick Shampoo for Dogs ......................... 581 Skin Conditioning Body Shampoo ........................ 582 Body Building Conditioner ............................. 582 Tooth Gel, Foaming, Transparent ......................... 583 Toothpaste ......................................... 584 Toothpaste, Transparent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .584 Toothpaste ......................................... 585 Toothpaste, Foaming .................................. 586 Toothpaste, Foaming, with Aerosil 200 ..................... 587 Water-Resistant Sport Tint ............................. 588

. . . . . . . . . . 589 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 633

SECTION XIV: TRADE-NAMED RAW MATERIALS SECTION XV: SUPPLJEW' ADDRESSES

Section I Antiperspirants and Deodorants

1

2

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Anti-Perspirant Cream S o f t w h i t e cream. Leaves no v i s i b l e t r a c e s o f aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e on t h e s k i n . M a t e r i a1 /CTFA-Index: A: Cetyl Alcohol S t e a r y l A1 coho1 L o c r o n P/Aluminum C h l o r h y d r a t e E u m u l g i n M8/01eth-10 ( a n d ) O l e t h - 5 Eutanol G/Octyldodecanol B: B e l s i l CM 0 4 0 / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e Water Pigments, fragrances

2,50% 2,50 15,OO

3,OO 6,OO 9,oo 62,OO q.s.

M i x A and h e a t t o 70C, f o r m a s o l i d phase w i t h warm w a t e r , work i n B e l s i l CM 040 and d i l u t e w i t h w a t e r . T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C 4 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 216 AH

S o f t w h i t e cream. h y d r a t e on t h e s k i n .

A n t i - P e r s p i r a n tC r e a m Leaves no v i s i b l e t r a c e s o f aluminum c h l o r -

M a t e r i a1 /CTFA-Index: A : Cetyl Alcohol Stearyl Alcohol L o c r o n P/A1 umi num C h l o r h y d r a t e E u m u l g i n M8/01eth-10 ( a n d ) O l e t h - 5 Eutanol G/Octyldodecanol B: B e l s i l CM 0 4 0 / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e B e l s i 1 PDM 2 0 / P h e n y l d i m e t h i c o n e Water P i gments, f r a g r a n c e s M i x A and h e a t t o 70C, m i x i n h o t w a t e r , add T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 217AH

2,50% 2,50 10,oo

3,OO 6,60 9,00

3,OO 63,40

q.s.

B

and m i x w e l l .

A n t i - P e r s p i r a n tR o l l - o n Milky white, liquid. M a t e r i a1 /CTFA-Index: A : L o c r o n P/Aluminum C h l o r h y d r a t e Wacker HDK H15/Si 1 i c a B: Lamecreme K S / G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e se B e l s i 1 DM 1 OO/Dimethi cone C : B e l s i 1 CM 0 2 0 / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e P i gments, f r a g r a n c e s M i x A and h e a t t o 70-75C, m i x B and m e l t . M i x A and cool T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C 3 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 185 AH SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

.

20,00% 1,oo

3,OO 5,OO 71,OO 9,s.

B,

add C ,

Antiperspirants and Deodorants

3

Antiperspirant Cream O/W

%w/w I

Lanette 0 E u m u l g i n 81 E u m u l g i n 82 Eutanol G * I 1 Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e Water

8.0 1.5 1.5 8.0 20.0 61 .O

F o r m u l a N o . F12-01

Antiperspirant Cream O/W Transparent, in Gel Form

Y I

E u m u l g i n 83 C e t i o l HE P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous I 1 Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e Water

U

12.0 20.0 5.0 20.0 43.0

F o r m u l a No. F12-02 Perfumed Cream O/W Transparent, in Gel Form

o/ow/w I

E u m u l g i n 81 E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% C a r b o p o l 940 Perfume I 1 Triethanolamine Water

2.0 45.0 1.5 5.0 2.3 44.2

P r e p a r a t i on : E u m u l g i n E1 and t h e p e r f u m e d o i l a r e d i s s o l v e d i n t h e m i x t u r e o f e t h y l a l c o h o l and 4 0 p a r t s w a t e r ; t h e C a r b o p o l 940 i s s t i r r e d w h i l e b e i n g s w e l l e d i n t h e s o l u t i o n . The d i s p e r s i o n p r o d u c e d i s n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h t h e m i x t u r e o f t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and the r e s t o f the water. F o r m u l a No. F13-01 Perfumed Cream O/W Transparent, in Gel Form C e t i o l HE E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% V i s c o n t r a n HEC 30 000 PR-3% s o l u t i o n Perfume, w a t e r - s o l u b l e Water F o r m u l a No. F13-02

SOURCE: H e n k e l KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

2.0 20.0 65.0 5.0 8.0

4

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

A n t i - p e r s p i r a n tR o l l - o n Slightly cloudy, high viscosity. M a t e r i a1 /CTFA-Index: A : B e l s i 1 DMC 6 0 3 2 / D i m e t h i c o n e CoDolvol Acetate . Water

2,00% 52 100

B: E t h a n o l / A l c o h o l

25,OO

C:

(Cosmetic grade)

L o c r o n L/A1 umi num C h l o r h y d r a t e T y l o s e H 4000 P / H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e Pigments, fragrances

20,oo 0,5-1 , O

Q.S.

M i x A , s t i r B i n t o A , m i x i n C . The d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y can be r e g u l a t e d w i t h T y l o s e H 4000 P ( a d d T y l o s e H 4000 P e i t h e r mixed w i t h w a t e r t o A o r m i x a t t h e end i n t h e f i n i s h e d f o r m ulation. F o r m u l a t i o n 516 AH Anti-perspirant Roll-on Cloudy, low viscosity. M a t e r i a1 /CTFA-Index: Water Ethanol/Alcohol (Cosmetic grade) B e l s i l DMC 6 0 3 1 / D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l Wacker HDK H 1 5 / S i l i c a T y l o s e H 4000 P / H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e L o c r o n L / A l u m i num C h l o r o h y d r a t e Pigments, f r a g r a n c e s

51,20% 12,oo

5,OO 1,50 0.30

30,OO q.s.

M i x t h e w a t e r and c o s m e t i c a l c o h o l , d i s s o l v e B e l s i l DMC 6031. Add HDK H I 5 and T y l o s e H 4000 P t o t h e s o l u t i o n w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . S t i r i n t h e aluminum c h l o r h y d r a t e . T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 242 AH Anti-perspirant Stick White firmstick with littlesoft rub Material/CTFA-Index: A : B e l s i l CM 0 4 0 / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e B:

Stearyl Alcohol A r l a c e l 1 6 5 / G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e se L o c r o n P / A l umi num Chl o r h y d r a t e Pigments, fragrances M i x B and h e a t t o 65C. S t i r i n B e l s i l CM 040. T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 302 AH

SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : SugOested F o r m u l a t i o n s

52,50% 24,OO 1,oo 22,OO q.s.

Antiperspirants and Deodorants

5

Clear Antiperspirant Stick

A s o l i d a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s t i c k which c o n t a i n s a s o l u b i l i z e d enhanced e f f i c a c y a l u m i n u m - z i r c o n i u m t e t r a c h l o r o h y d r a t e GPG a c t i v e i n a c l e a r base. % by weiaht 50.00 20.70

Innredients: A . Reach AZP-908PG (300/0s o l n . ) B. Propylene Glycol C , PPG-3-Isosteareth-9 D. Propylene Carbonate E. D i propylene G l y c o l F . D i b e n z y l idene S o r b i t o 1 G. Isosteareth-2 H . L a u r e t h - 2 Benzoate I. Dimethicone Copolyol J . AMP R e g u l a r K. Fragrance

8.00 6.00

4.00 3.00 3.00 2.00 1.50 1.80 q.s.

Procedure: 1 . Add B,D,E, and I i n sequence t o b e a k e r w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n and h e a t t o I O O C . 2 . Add F t o b e a k e r and m i x w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n u n t i l d i s s o l v e d and t h e s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r . Lower t e m p e r a t u r e t o 95C. 3 . Heat A s e p a r a t e l y t o 85C and add J . M i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add t o main b a t c h . 4 . Premix C, G, H, and K and h e a t t o 85C and add t o main b a t c h s l o w l y a t l o w t o medium speed. 5 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and p o u r i n t o c a s i n g s a t 80-85C. F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0276 s u g g e s t e d b y R e h e i s ,

Inc.

SOURCE: Angus Chemical Con: Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y Antiperspirant Roll-on Colourless, clear, low-viscosity. Material/CTFA-Index: Wacker-Bel s i 1 DMC 6 0 3 8 / D i m e t h i cone C o p o l y o l Water Ethanol /Alcohol (Cosmetic grade) L o c r o n L/A1 umi numchl o r h y d r a t Fragrances, pigments Mix a l l i n g r e d i e n t s .

SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : F o r m u l a t i o n 180 AH

2,00% 53,OO

25,OO 20,oo q.s.

6

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Deodorant Emulsion O/W for Roll-On

%w/w I

C u t i n a MD 4.0 E u m u l g i n 81 1.5 E u m u l g i n 82 1.5 Eutanol G 5.0 Bactericide 0.5 I 1 E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% 10.0 C a r b o p o l 934 0.3 Triethanolamine 0.5 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 5.0 Water 71 . 7 Preparation: The f a t t y s u b s t a n c e s a r e m e l t e d on t h e w a t e r b a t h a t a p p r o x . 70C and t h e b a c t e r i c i d e i s d i s s o l v e d . 50 p a r t s o f t h e w a t e r a r e mixed w i t h t h e g l y c e r i n e , h e a t e d t o a p p r o x . 75 C and, s t i r r i n g s l o w l y , added t o t h e f a t phase. The C a r b o p o l 934 i s s t i r r e d w h i l e b e i n g d i s p e r s e d i n 15 p a r t s o f t h e w a t e r . A f t e r t h e e m u l s i o n has c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 35C, t h e e t h y l a l c o h o l and t h e C a r b o p o l d i s p e r s i o n a r e added, perfumed, p r e s e r v e d and n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h t h e t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e w h i c h has been d i s s o l v e d e a r l i e r i n t h e remaining 6.1 p a r t s o f t h e water. F o r m u l a NO. F21-01 Antiperspirant Emulsion O/W, Liquid (Roll-On)

? @ J y L a n e t t e 16 C u t i n a MD Eumulgin 81 Eumulgin 82 Cetiol V I 1 Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e Water Formula No. F22-01

I

2.0 5.0 1.5 1.5 4.0 10.0 76.0

Antiperspirant Emulsion O/W (Roll-On)

@!&! Eutanol G 3.0 V i s c o n t r a n MC 400-6% s o l u t i o n 30.0 Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e 20.0 E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% 17.0 Water 30.0 Preparation: The aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e i s d i s s o l v e d i n 30 p a r t s w a t e r and t h i s s o l u t i o n i s added t o t h e V i s c o n t r a n s o l u t i o n . The m i x t u r e o f E u t a n o l G and e t h y l a l c o h o l i s s t i r r e d i n and t h e n homogenized. Formula No. F22-02

SOURCE : Henkel KGaA: C o m e t ic Model Formulae

Antiperspirants and Deodorants

Deodorant Lotion Clear (Roll-On)

%w/w Hydagen D E 0 C e t i o l HE E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% V i s c o n t r a n HEC 30,000 PR 1% s o l u t i o n E u m u l g i n RO 40 Perfume Water Formula No. F51-01

2.0 3.0 25.0 40.0 1.2 0.4 28.4

Deodorant Antiperspirant Lotion, Clear (Roll-On) Hydagen DE0 Locron P C e t i o l HE E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% V i s c o n t r a n HEC 30,000 Perfume E u m u l g i n RO 40 Water F o r m u l a No. F51-02

1.5 30.0 2.0 30.0 20.0 0.2 1.2 15.1

P R 1% s o l u t i o n

Antiperspirant Lotion

%w/w C e t i o l HE E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e - 5 0 % s o l u t i o n Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water

6.0 20.0 30.0 3.0 41.0

N o t e : Such a l o t i o n c a n b e used, f o r example, w i t h a pump a t o m i z e r . The s p r a y b e h a v i o r depends on t h e t y p e o f a t o m i z e r . The f o r m u l a t i o n must t h e n b e changed by increasing the alcohol proportion. F o r m u l a No. F52-01 Antiperspirant Lotion (Without Alcohol)

%w/w C e t i o l HE E u m u l g i n 286 Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water F o r m u l a No. F52-02 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA:

Cosmetic

5.0 2.0 20.0 2.0 71 . O

Model

Formulae

7

8

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Deodorant Spray Aerosol-Packed

%w/w Eutanol G Bactericide Perfume Ethyl o r Isopropyl Alcohol

10.0 0.1 1.0 88.9

F i l l i n g : 50 p a r t s a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t c o n c e n t r a t e 50 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t 12/114 ( 4 0 : 6 0 ) Formula N o . F71-01 Deodorant Spray Aerosol-Packed %W/w

I

Hydagen DE0 E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% Perfume

I 1 P r o p e l l a n t gas F r i g e n 11/12 F o r m u l a N o . 71-02

1.5 28.2 0.3 (40:60)

70.0

Antiperspirant Spray Aerosol-Packed

%w/w Eutanol G Locron P A e r o s i l 200 Perfume

50.0

35.0 5.0 10.0

Filling:

10 p a r t s s o l u t i o n 90 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t 11/12 (65:35) F o r m u l a No. 72-01 Deodorant, Antiperspirant Spray,

Aerosol-Packed

o/ow/w Hydagen DE0 M y r i t o l 318 Locron P A e r o s i l 200 Perfume

2.0 2.0 3.0 0.1 0.3

F i l l i n g : 8% ( w e i g h t p e r c e n t a g e ) a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s o l u t i o n 92% ( w e i g h t p e r c e n t a g e ) p r o p e l l a n t F r i g e n 11/12 ( 3 5 / 6 5 ) N o t e : The p r o d u c t must b e shaken b e f o r e use. F o r m u l a No. F72-02

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

Antiperspirants and Deodorants

9

Deodorant Stick

9/ow/w Lanette 0 3.0 Eutanol G 27.0 3.0 Comper 1 an 100 S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L4 8.0 Perfume 2.0 Bactericide 0.2 E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% 51.8 1,2-propylene g l y c o l 2.0 Sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n 38% 3.0 Preparation: L a n e t t e 0, E u t a n o l G, Comperlan 100, S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L4 and t h e b a c t e r i c i d e a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r on t h e w a t e r b a t h a t a p p r o x . 7 0 C w i t h most o f t h e e t h y l a l c o h o l . P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and t h e remaining p a r t o f t h e a l c o h o l a r e mixed t o g e t h e r w i t h t h e sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n , a l s o h e a t e d t o 70C and s t i r r e d i n t o t h e a l c o h o l i c f a t m e l t . The compound i s t h e n p e r f u m e d and c a s t i n m o u l d s . I t s o l i d i f i e s i n a few m i n u t e s and can b e t a k e n o u t o f t h e mould b e f o r e i t c o o l s down c o m p l e t e l y . I t i s a d v i s a b l e t o work w i t h a c e r t a i n e x c e s s o f a l c o h o l . I n s m a l l b a t c h e s , t h i s i s a b o u t l o % , w h i l s t i n l a r g e r ones, c o r r e s p o n d i n g l y l e s s . Because o f t h e r i s k o f e v a p o r a t i o n , t h e f i n i s h e d s t i c k must b e p a c k e d i n a s u f f i c i e n t l y t i g h t c o n t a i n e r . N o t e : Max. pH 11 F o r m u l a No. F41-01 Deodorant Stick Without Alcohol S i e y e r t S t e a r i n L2SM Coinperlan 1 0 0 L a n e t r e 22 I r g a s a n DP 3 0 0 1,2-propylene g l y c o l Sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l . F o r m u l a No. F41-04

w 8.0 3.0 8.0

10%

0.5 65.3 15.2

Deodorant Stick Without Alcohol

sbw/w S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2SM Comperl an 1 0 0

10.0

4.0

L a n e t t e 22 10.0 I r g a s a n DP 300 0.5 1,2-Propylene g l y c o l 56.5 Sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l . 10% 19.0 F o r m u l a N o . F41-05 P r e p a r a t i o n f o r F o r m u l a s F41-04 and F41-05: S i e g e r t S t e a r i n LPSM, Comperlan 1 0 0 , L a n e t t e 22, I r g a s a n DP 3 0 0 a r e d i s s o l v e d i n 40 p a r t s p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l a t 70C. The sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n i s a l s o h e a t e d t o 70C w i t h t h e r e s t o f t h e p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and s t i r r e d i n t o t h e m e l t . I t i s p o u r e d i n t o moulds a t 65C. SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

10

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Deodorant Stick Translucent stick with soft rub. M a t e r i a1 /CTFA-Index: Sodium S t e a r a t e E t h a n o l 96 % i g / A l c o h o l ( c o s m e t i c g r a d e ) P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l B e l s i 1 CM 0 4 0 / C y c l o m e t h i cone Pigments, p r e s e r v a t i v e s , fragrances

6,00% 65,OO 24,80 3,OO 9,s.

M i x a l l components and h e a t t o 60-70C, u n t i l a l l t h e sodium s t e a r a t e has m e l t e d . F i l l a t 60C. T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 186 AH

Firm,

Deodorant Stick slightly yellow stick with soft rub.

M a t e r i a l /CTFA-Index: Lanolin Acid B e l s i 1 SDM 6 0 2 2 / D i m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) S t e a r o x y D i m e t h y l s i lane (and) Stearoxy Dimethyldisi loxane Isopropyl Myri s t a t e Bel s i 1 DM 350/Di m e t h i cone B e l s i 1 CM 040/Cycl omethi cone P r e s e r v a t i v e s , pigments, fragrances

-

50,00% 36,OO

5,OO 4,OO 5,OO

q.s.

M e l t a l l components t o g e t h e r . F i l l w h i l e h o t . T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 279 AH

Firm,

Deodorant Stick slightly yellow stick with little rub.

M a t e r i a1 /CTFA I n d e x Lanolin Acid B e l s i 1 SDM 6 0 2 2 / D i m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) S t e a r o x y D i m e t h y l s i l a n e (and) Stearoxy D i m e t h y l d i s i l o x a n e B e l s i l DM 3 5 / D i m e t h i c o n e

A:

B: B e l s i l CM 0 4 0 / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e M e l t A , m i x i n B, f i l l w h i l e h o t . T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks F o r m u l a t i o n 357 AH

SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

60,00% 30,OO 5,OO

5,OO

Antiperspirants and Deodorants

11

Deodorant Stick Formulation Ingredient: Propylene Glycol Water Phoenoxide STA-100 ( S t e a r e t h - 1 0 0 ) Sodi um S t e a r a t e S i l w a x WS-L Phoenoxide STA-2 ( S t e a r e t h - 2 ) Triethanolamine

Wei q h t % 67.2 19.2 4.4 4.1 4.0 0.6 0.5

Procedure: 1 . Add w a t e r , p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and h e a t t o 75C. 2 . Add o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r shown under a g i t a t i o n . 3 , Cool t o 60C. 4 . Add f r a g r a n c e and c o l o r as d e s i r e d . S i l w a x WS-L i s a p a t e n t e d s i l i c o n e compound w h i c h lowers t h e t a c k o f t h e s t i c k and p r o v i d e s a s i l i c o n e f e e l . I t does n o t affect the c l a r i t y . Formula L-2418A Deodorant Stick Formulation

I n gr_gd i_e.Kt; P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Water Phoenoxide STA-100 ( S t e a r e t h - 1 0 0 ) Sodium S t e a r a t e S i l w a x WD-F Phoenoxide STA-2 ( S t e a r e t h - 2 ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i ne

Wei a h t % 67.2 19.2 4.4 4.1 4.0 0.6 0.5

Procedure: 1 . Add w a t e r , p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and h e a t t o 75C. 2 . Add o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r shown under a g i t a t i o n 3 . Cool t o 60C. 4 . Add f r a g r a n c e and c o l o r as d e s i r e d . S i l w a x WD-F i s a p a t e n t e d f l u o r i n e c o n t a i n i n g s i l i c o n e compound w h i c h l o w e r s t h e t a c k o f t h e s t i c k and p r o v i d e s a u n i q u e n o n - s t i c k y f e e l . The f o r m u l a t i o n u s i n g S i l w a x WD-F i s not clear. Formula L-2375B

SOURCE: P h o e n i x C h e m i c a l ,

Inc.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Section II Baby Products

12

Baby Products

13

Baby Cream Soft Reci De : 8.00% H o s t a c e r i n WO P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 S e s q u i i s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Beeswax ( a n d ) M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 ine Wax ( a n d ) M i n e r a l O i 1 ( a n d ) Magnesium S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Aluminum S t e a r. a t e 2.00% P e r m u l g i n 4200 M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i n e Wax 2.00% Amerlate W I s o p r o p y l Lanol a t e 10.00% Vase1 ine 15.00% Mineral o i 1, high v i s c o s i t y 5.00% Isopropyl palmitate 2.00% Calendula o i l q.s. Antioxidant

10.00% 5.00%

Zinc oxide Talc

A1 1a n t o i n A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . E t h y l e n d i a m i n e T e t r a a c e t i c Acid-Sodium S a l t C i t r i c a c i d (10% i n w a t e r ) D-Panthenol Water Preservative Perfume Procedure: I M e l t A a t 8OC, t h e n add 8. I11 S t i r I1 into I. V A t 35C add D t o I V .

0.20% 0.10%

0.25% 0.60% 39.65% q.s. 0.20%

I1 I V

Heat C t o 8OC. S t i r u n t i l cool.

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : Guide F o r m u l a t i o n s for Cosmetics & T o i l e t r i e s : Formula A V I / 5 8 0 4

14

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Baby Cream W h i t e , s o f t cream. S l i g h t l y g r e a s y , b u t w e l l a b s o r b e d . Water-proof. M a t e r i a l /CTFA-Index: A: H o s t a c e r i n WO/Polyglyceryl-2 S e s q u i i s o s t e a r a t e (and) Beeswax ( a n d ) M i n e r a l O i l ( a n d ) Magnesium S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Aluminum S t e a r a t e L u n a c e r a M / M i crowax Mineral O i l (high viscosity) Isopropyl Myristate

7.00 3.00 61.60

B: G l y c e r i n e Water C:

10.00% 1 .oo 10.00

B e l s i l CM 1 0 0 0 / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) D i m e t h i c o n o l P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume,

5.00

pigments

9,s.

W/O Cream M e l t A a t a p p r o x . 8OC, h e a t B t o 8OC. S t i r A i n t o B w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add C a t a p p r o x . 45C. T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C more t h a n 10 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 809 AH Baby Lotion High-viscosity lotion, easily spread. Material/CTFA-Index: A : W a c k e r - B e l s i 1 DM 3SO/Dimethicone Crodawachs GP 2 0 0 / S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

(a.)

PEG S t e a r a t e

B: Water

C:

55.00

Z i n c Oxide Preservative,

6.00 fragrances,

pigments

Heat b o t h A and B t o 60-65C, F o r m u l a t i o n 939 AH

SOURCE:

35.00 4.00

Wacker S i l i c o n e :

s t i r B i n t o A,

F o r m u l a t i o n 939 AH

9.s.

and t h e n add C .

Baby Products

15

Baby Shampoo Inaredients : Phase A: H20, Dei o n i zed Sodium Lauramphoacetate & Sod um T r i d e c e t h S u l f a t e Sodi um L a u r e t h - 3 S u l f a t e H e t a i n e CLA ( C a n o l a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) H e t s o r b L-80-72% (PEG-80 Sorb t a n L a u r a t e ) PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e

% 49.40 25.00 10.00

4.00 10.00 0.90

Phase 8: P u a t e r n i um-1 5

0.20

Phase C : C i t r i c acid

0.50

Speci f ic a t ions : pH: 6 . 9 0 V i s c o s i t y #3/12:

2000 cps

Procedure: l ) - I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e equipped w i t h a L i g h t n i n ' t y p e m i x e r , combine Phase A . Heat t o 70C w h i l e m i x i n g u n t i l uniform. 2) Cool t o 45C w h i l e m i x i n g ; add Phase B. 3 ) A d j u s t t o d e s i r e d p H w i t h Phase C . Formula HS 92-61-3 Baby B a t h Inaredients : H20, Dei o n i zed PEG-80 G l y c e r y l Cocoate Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e PEG-30 G l y c e r y l Cocoate H e t a i n e CLA ( C a n o l a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) A l o e Vera Gel M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben I m i d a z o l id i n y l Urea Speci f ic a t i o n s : pH: 6 . 8 0 V i s c o s i t y #3/12:

% 58 14.0 12.0 8.0 6.0

.c

0.5 0.25 0.15 0.30

2300

Procedure: I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e , combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s , e x c e p t i m i d a z o l i d i n y l u r e a , and h e a t t o 70C w h i l e m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 30C and add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t . M i x w e l l . Formula HB 93-92

SOURCE: H e t e r e n e ,

Inc.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

16

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Bubble Bath for Babies and Children, Clear, Liquid

%w/w Texapon SBN Cremogen camomile s p e c . Sodium c h l o r i d e Water

60.0 2.0 2.0 36.0

N o t e : WAS 18%, medium v i s c o u s F o r m u l a N o . R62-01 Bubble Bath for Babies and Children, Clear, Liquid

%w/w Texapon ASV C e t i o l HE Cremogen, camomile s p e c . Sodium c h l o r i d e Perfume, w a t e r - s o l u b l e Water

50.0 5.0 3.0 3.0 1.o 38.0

N o t e : WAS 15%, medium v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. R62-03 Bubble Bath for Babies and Children, Liquid

%w/w Dehyton AB30 Lamepon S Nutrilan L Comperlan KM Perfume, w a t e r - s o l u b l e Water

40.0

20.0 2.0 3.0

1.o

34.0

N o t e : WAS 19%, l o w v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. R62-05 Care Bath for Babies and Children

%w/w Texapon K14S s p e c i a1 Comperlan LS Sodium c h l o r i d e Cremogen camomi 1e s p e c i a1 C e t i o l HE C i t r i c a c i d , 10% s o l . Water N o t e : WAS 9% F o r m u l a No. R62-07

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

22.0 3.0 0.7 3.0 2.0 0.3 69.0

Baby Products

17

Bubble Bath for Babies and Children, Pearly

%w/w 60.0 3.0 2.5 2.5 32.0

Texapon SBN C u t i n a AGS Cremogen camomile s p e c . Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS l a % , medium v i s c o u s Formula No. R63-01 Care Bath for Babies and Children, Pearly Texapon K14S s p e c i a l E u p e r l a n PK 7 7 1 Comperlan K D Sodium c h l o r i d e C e t i o l HE Cremogen camomile, spec. C i t r i c a c i d 10% s o l . Water

%w/w 26.0 10.0 3.0 1 .o

3.0 3.0 0.4 53.6

new

N o t e : WAS 14% Formula No. R63-03 Care Bath for Babies and Children, Pearly

%w/w 40.0 20.0 3.0 37.0

Texapon ASV Oehyton AB 30 E u p e r l a n PK 8 1 0 Water N o t e : WAS 19% F o r m u l a No. R63-05 Care Bath for Babies and Children, Pearly

? & J &

40.0 20.0 3.0 2.0 4.0 31 . O

Texapon ASV Oehyton K E u p e r l a n PK 810 Comperlan L S C i t r i c a c i d 10% s o l . Water N o t e : WAS 21% Formula No. R63-06

SOURCE:

Henkel

KGaA: Cosmetic

Model

Formulae

18

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cream for Babies and Children O/W

%w/w I

C u t i n a MD Eumulgin B1 Eumulgin €32 C e t i o l LC M y r i t o l 318 C a l e n d u l a o i 1 CLR

15.0 1.5 1.5 10.0 10.0 4.0

I1

Alumi num h y d r o x y a l 1a n t o i n a t e Water

0.2 54.8

I11 Cremogen w i t c h h a z e l e x t r a c t

3.0

F o r m u l a N o . R11-01 Cream for Babies and Children O/W

%w/w I

Dehymuls E Cetiol V Vasel i ne, w h i t e Wool f a t , a n h y d r o u s Talc Zinc oxide

I 1 Water

7.0 10.0 15.0 5.0

15.0 10.0 38.0

Formula N o . R l l - 0 3 Cream for Babies and Children, Anhydrous

%w/w Dehymuls K C e t i o l SN M y r i t o l 318 Vasel ine, w h i t e Ozokerite V i t a m i n F g l y c e r i n e e s t e r CLR Rice starch Kaol i n Zinc oxide Formula No. R l l - 0 5

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

30.0 10.0 10.0 20.0 3.0 2.0 10.0 10.0 5.0

Baby Products

Cream for Babies and Children W/O Dehymuls F Cetiol V M y r i t o l 318 Vasel i ne, w h i t e C a l e n d u l a o i 1 CLR I1 Allantoin Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Perfume Water Formula No. R11-07

I

8.0 8.0 5.0 15.0 3.0 0.2 5.0 0.5 0.3 55.0

Vulnerary Cream for Children W/O

I

Dehymuls F Novata AB Cetiol V P a r a f f i n o i l , low viscous Vasel i ne, w h i t e Microwax HP 67 I I A 1 umi num s t e a r a t e Titanium dioxide Kaol i n Bismuth subgal l a t e A1 l a n t o i n Wheat s t a r c h I11 Water Formula No. R l l - 0 8

w

10.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 23.0 3.0 0.5 15.0 9.0 1.o 0.2 10.0 13.3

Baby Cream O/W

%w/w C u t i n a E24 C u t i n a MD Lanette 0 Eutanol G M y r i t o l 318 C e t i o l 868 C a l e n d u l a o i l CLR C e t i o l SN I1 Allantoin Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water Formula No. R11-09

I

SOURCE:

Henkel K G a A : Cosmetic Model Formulae

5.0 10.0 2.0 6.0 6.0 10.0 3.0 5.0 0.3 5.0 47.7

19

20

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Emulsion for Babies and Children O/W

I

C u t i n a MD E u m u l g i n B1 Eumulgin 82 Eutanol G Calendula o i l P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous V i t a m i n F g l y c e r i n e e s t e r CLR C e t i o l SN

I 1 1,2-propylene g l y c o l Water

7.0 1.5 1.5 10.0 3.0 6.0 3.0 5.0

5.0 58.0

F o r m u l a N o . R21-01

Oil for Babies and Children Eutanol G Isopropyl palmitate M y r i t o l 318 C a l e n d u l a o i 1 CLR C a r r o t o i l CLR P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous

30.0 10.0 10.0 3.0 1.o 46.0

Formula No. R31-01 Oil for Babies and Children

C e t i o l SN M y r i t o l 318 C a l e n d u l a o i l CLR

$w/w 40.0 56.0 4.0

Formula No. R31-02 Vulnerary Stick for Babies and Children C u t i n a LM M y r i t o l 318 Zinc o x i d e Talc B i s m u t h subgal l a t e Formula No. R41-02

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

Parts 60.0 15.0 7.5 7.5 5.0

Baby Products

Shampoo for

21

Babies and Children

% &vJ Texapon ASV Water N o t e : WAS 15%, l o w v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. R61-01

50.0 50.0

Shampoo for Babies and Children

e Texapon SBN Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 16%, medium v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. R61-03

50.0 3.0 47.0

Shampoo for Babies and Children

!&y& Texapon N25/N40 Dehyton K Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 11%, v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. R61-05

30.0 10.0 1.5

58.5

Shampoo for Children, with Ampholyte, Pearly Texapon ASV Dehyton K E u p e r l a n P K 771 Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 21%, h i g h v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. R61-07

60.0

5.0 5.0 2.5 27.5

Shampoo for Babies and Children, Pearly Texapon ASV E u p e r l a n PK 810 Comperlan F Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 15% Formula No. R61-09

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA:

40.0 4.0 2.0 2.0 52.0

Cosmetic Model

Formulae

22

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shampoo for Babies and Children, Clear

%w/w Texapon ASV 70 s p e c i a l Texapon N70 Comperlan OD Sodium c h l o r i d e L e c i t h i n , water d i s p . Water N o t e : Low v i s c o u s , WAS 15% Formula No. R61-19

10.0 10.0

1.0 4.0 0.5 74.5

Shampoo for Babies and Children, with Vitamin Comperlan OD 2.0 V i t a m i n E / C o v i t o l 1100 0.5 Perfume 0.2 Texapon ASV 30.0 Dehyton G-SF 5.5 Sodi um c h l o r i d e 3.0 Water 58.8 N o t e : WAS 13% P r e p a r a t i o n : C o n t e n t s a r e mixed i n t h e o r d e r shown above w i t h o u t h e a t ing Formula No. R61-21

.

Shampoo for Babies and Children, with Vitamin E Comperlan KD 1.5 V i t a m i n E/Covi t o 1 1100 0.5 Perfume 0.2 Texapon K14 S s p e c i a l 30.0 Dehyton G 10.0 Sodium c h l o r i d e 2.0 Water 55.8 N o t e : WAS 13% P r e p a r a t i o n : C o n t e n t s a r e mixed i n t h e o r d e r shown above w i t h o u t h e a t in g . Formula No. R61-23 Baby Shampoo, Pearly

%w/w Texapon SEN 39.3 Lamepon S 18.8 Nutrilan L 5.0 Monomuls 90-L 12 1 .o Lamesoft 156 5.0 Hexapl a n t R i c h t e r 1 .o Perfume 0.3 Sodium c h l o r i d e 1.2 Water 28.4 N o t e : Medium v i s c o u s , WAS 17% P r e p a r a t i o n : I n g r e d i e n t s a r e mixed i n t h e o r d e r shown above. Monomuls 90-L 12 i s e a s i e r t o work i n when h e a t e d . Formula No. R61-25 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

Baby Products

Shampoo for Babies and Children, Pearly

aw/w Texapon ASV E u p e r l a n PK 810 Comperlan F Sodi um chl o r i de Water N o t e : WAS 14% F o r m u l a N o . R61-10

40.n 2.0 2.0 3.0

53.0

Shampoo for Babies and Children, with Ampholyte, Pearly

D/ow/w Texapon A S V Dehyton G Comperlan KD E u p e r l a n PK 7 71 Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 15% Formula No. R61-12

3.~ 5 . 0.

10.0 1.o 2.0 1.5 50.0

Shampoo for Babies and Children, Clear

s/ow/w Texapon K14S s p e c i a1 Comperlan KD Dehyton G Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 12% Formula No. R61-14

25.0 2.0 10.0 2.5 60.5

Shampoo for Babies and Children

s/ow/w Texapon ASV Comperlan OD Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 17% Formula No. R61-16

50.0 2.0 3.0 45.0

Shampoo for Babies and Children, Clear

%w/w Texapon ASV 70 s p e c i a l Dehyton K Comperlan OD Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : V i s c o u s , WAS 1 2 % Formula No. R61-18

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

10.0 10.0 2.0 2.5 75.5

23

Section Ill Bath and Shower Products

24

Bath and Shower Products

25

Bath Oil Emulsion

omw/W I

E u m u l g i n 05 E u m u l g i n 010 R i l a n i t GMO Eutanol G Paraffin o i l Perfume

1.5 1.5 1.0 50.0 15.0 2.0

I 1 A e r o s i 1 200

1.5 27.5

Water F o r m u l a No. L68-01 Bath Milk Emulsion

I

C u t i n a MO S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2SM E u m u l g i n 81 E u m u l g i n 82 Isopropyl Myri s t a t e Eutanol G Vitamin o i 1 Biocorno Paraffin o i l

6.0 4.0 3.0 3.0 8.0 4.0

4.0 8.0

I 1 M i 1 k powder

1.0 0.4 58.6

Triethanolamine Water F o r m u l a No. L68-02 Bath Oil E u m u l g i n 286 DE0 Turkish red o i l E t h y l a l c o h o l 9690 Perfume Water

20.0 10.0 20.0 30.0 20.0

N o t e : T h i s f o r m u l a b e l o n g s t o t h e b a t h o i l c a t e g o r y a l t h o u g h no r e f a t t i n g a d d i t i v e s a r e used h e r e . Such a f o r m u l a , w h i c h i s p r i m a r i l y i n t e n d e d f o r p e r f u m i n g t h e body, s h o u l d be d e s i g n a t e d r a t h e r as a s c e n t b a t h o r p e r f u m e d b a t h . This bath o i l dissolves completely i n water. F o r m u l a L67-12

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

26

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Bath Oil, Liquid

%w/w 10.0 40.0 10.0 10.0 25.0 5.0

Eumulgin 05 Cetiol A Comperlan KD M y r i t o l 318 Paraffin o i l Perfume F o r m u l a No. K67-Dl Bath Oil, Liquid

%w/w 10.0 40.0 30.0 15.0 5.0

Dehydol LS2 D E 0 Aethoxal 8 Cetiol A M y r i t o l 318 Perfume Formula

NO.

L67-03 Bath Oil, Liquid

Formula No.

= 10.0 85.0 5.0

Dehydol LS2 D E 0 C e t i o l HE Perfume L67-05 Bath Oil, Liquid

%w/w Aethoxal Perfume

90.0 10.0

8

F o r m u l a N o . L67-08 Bath Oil, Spreading

96w/w Dehydol LS2 DE0 M y r i t o l 318 P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous Perfume F o r m u l a N o . L67-10

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model Formulae

5.0 40.0 50.0 5.0

Bath and Shower Products

27

Bubble-Bath With pearl lustre effect, 18.2% active ingredient Reci De: 8.00% A Hostapon CT p a s t e Sodium M e t h y l Cocoyl T a u r a t e 20.00% B Water 40.00% C Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 10.00% Genapol AMG Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S u l f a t e 4.00% Genapol PGM 1 iq u i d Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( a n d ) G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Cocamide MEA 3.00% G e l i t a Sol C Hydro1 yzed Col 1agen 0.50% Perfume 10.70% Water q.s. Dyestuff s o l u t i o n q.s. Preservative 2.00% Genapol L-3 Laureth-3 1 .EO% D Sodium c h l o r i d e Procedure: I D i s s o l v e A i n warmed B. I 1 One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f C a r e added t o I . I 1 1 If n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. I V F i n a l l y adjust t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h D. F o r m u l a t i o n A I/2009 Bubble-Bath Low price quality, clear, 10.0% active ingredient ReciDe: 25.00% A Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 5.00% B H o s t a p u r SAS 60 Sodium C14-17 Sec. A l k y l S u l f o n a t e 0.50% Perfume 67.50% Water q.s. Dyestuff s o l u t i o n q.s. Preservative 2.00% C Sodium c h l o r i d e Procedure: I One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f B a r e added t o A I 1 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. I11 F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h C. F o r m u l a t i o n A I/2010

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : Guide F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmetics & T o i l e t r i e s

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

28

Bubble-Bath With pearl lustre effect, 22.0% active ingredient Recipe: Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e

A

B

C

Genapol AMG Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S u l f a t e Perfume C e t i o l HE PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate Genapol PGL G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Cocamide MEA ( a n d ) PPG-4 Deceth-4 Water Dyestuff solution Preservative Genagen CAB Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne Genapol L-3 Laureth-3

60.00%

8.00% 1.50% 5.00%

5.00% 11.50% q.s. q.s. 6.00%

1 .OO% 2.00%

Sodium c h l o r i d e

Procedure: I One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f B a r e added t o A . I 1 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. I11 F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h C . Formulation A I/3025 Special Bath Clear, low foaming Reci pe : A Genagen CA-050 PEG-5 Cocami de B

Rosmarin b a t h Isopropyl palmitate Water Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e

30.00% 5.00% 5.00% 50.00% 10.00%

Procedure: One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f B a r e added t o A . Formulation A I/7017

SOURCE:

H o e c h s t : Guide F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmetics & T o i l e t r i e s

Bath and Shower Products

29

Bubble Bath, Clear

%w/w Texapon N25 C e t i o l HE Comperlan KD Sodium c h l o r i d e Perfume, w a t e r s o l u b l e Water N o t e : H i g h v i s c o u s , WAS 10% Formula No. L61-01

30.0 2.0 2.0 3.0 1.0 62.0

Bubble Bath, Clear, Liquid with Protein Texapon N40 Lamepon S Comperlan KD Nutrilan L Sodium c h l o r i d e Perfume, w a t e r - s o l u b l e Water N o t e : H i g h v i s c o u s , WAS 15% Formula No. L61-03

30.0 20.0 1.o 3.0 2.0 2.0 42.0

Bubble Bath, Clear, Liquid

%w/w Texapon N40 Lamepon S Sodium c h l o r i d e Perfume, w a t e r - s o l u b l e Water Note: H i g h v i s c o u s , WAS 16% Formula No. L61-04

30.0 20.0 1.5 2.0 46.5

Bubble Bath, Clear, Liquid

%w/w Texapon MLS 60.0 Dehyton AB 3 0 10.0 Comperlan KD 4.0 Perfume, w a t e r - s o l u b l e 3.0 Water 23.0 N o t e : The a d d i t i o n o f Dehyton AB 30 g i v e s t h i s f o r m u l a a s l i g h t deodorizing e f f e c t . Medium v i s c o u s , WAS 27% SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

30

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Bubble Bath, Clear, Especially Skin Compatible

%w/w Texapon K14S s p e c i a1 Comperlan LS C e t i o l HE Perfume C i t r i c a c i d 10% s o l u t i o n Water N o t e : WAS 25% F o r m u l a L61-31

79.0 3.0 5.0 2.0 0.3 10.7

Bubble Bath, Clear, with Ethereal Oil

96w/w Texapon N40 50.0 E u m u l g i n SML 20 5.0 Eucalyptus o i 1 2.0 P i ne n e e d l e o i 1 2.0 Water 41 . O N o t e : WAS 19% The q u a n t i t y o f e m u l s i f i e r must b e v a r i e d i n a c c o r d a n c e w i t h t h e t y p e o f e t h e r e a l o i l used. Formula L61-33 Bubble Bath, Clear, Especially Skin Compatible

%w/w Texapon K14S s p e c i a1 Comperlan LS Sodium c h l o r i d e Aethoxal B Perfume C i t r i c a c i d 10% s o l u t i o n Water N o t e : 13% WAS Formula No. L61-35

36.0 3.0 0.7 2.0 1. o 0.4 56.9

Bubble Bath, Clear, Especially Skin Compatible

%w/w Texapon K14S s p e c i a1 Comperlan L S Sodium c h l o r i d e Aethoxal B Perfume C i t r i c a c i d 10% s o l u t i o n Water N o t e : WAS 19% F o r m u l a No. L61-37 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

57.0 3.0 0.4 2.0

1.o

0.4 36.2

Bath and Shower Products

31

Bubble Bath, Clear, Liquid

%w/w Texapon I E S Comperlan LS Perfume, w a t e r - s o l u b l e Water Note: High viscous, F o r m u l a N o . L61-08

WAS

50.0

4.0 3.0 43.0 34%

Bubble Bath, Clear, Liquid S u l f o p o n 1 0 1 Spec. Comperlan KD Perfume , w a t e r - s o 1u b l e Water

60.0 3.0

3.0 34.0

N o t e : Low v i s c o u s , WAS 22% Formula No. L61-11 Vitamin Bubble Bath, Clear, Liquid Texapon N25 Comperlan KM Sol u v i t R i c h t e r Perfume

90.0

3.0 4.0 3.0

N o t e : H i g h v i s c o u s , WAS 26% Formula No. L61-14 Bubble Bath, Clear, Liquid Texapon N40 Aethoxal B Isopropyl Myri s t a t e Perfume Water N o t e : Medium v i s c o u s , WAS 17% F o r m u l a No. L61-15

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

60.0

20.0 10.0 2.0 8.0

32

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Bubble Bath, Clear, Liquid Texapon MLS Comperlan LS C e t i o l HE Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e Water

60.0 3.0 10.0 3.0 2.0 22.0

N o t e : Medium v i s c o u s , WAS 23% F o r m u l a No. L61-17 Algae Bubble Bath, Clear, Liquid

%w/w Texapon N40 C e t i o l HE Comperlan K D Extrapon algae super Perfume B r i s e b l e u Water N o t e : Medium v i s c o u s , Formula No. L61-19

70.0 10.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 11 .o WAS 23%

Bubble Bath

%w/w Texapon N25 C e t i o l HE V i s c o n t r a n HEC 30 000 PR-2% s o l u t i o n Perfume, w a t e r - s o l u b l e Water

15.0 2.0 60.0 1.o 22.0

N o t e : H i g h v i s c o u s b u b b l e b a t h w i t h an e x t r e m e l y l o w WAS c o n t e n t o f a p p r o x . 4% Formula N o . L61-21 Bubble Bath

%w/w Texapon N25 C e t i o l HE V i s c o n t r a n HEC 30 000 PR-2% s o l u t i o n Perfume, w a t e r - s o l u b l e N o t e : H i g h v i s c o u s b u b b l e b a t h h a v i n g a low WAS c o n t e n t o f a p p r o x . 6% Formula No. L61-22

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

20.0 2.0 77.0 1.o

Bath and Shower Products

33

Bubble Bath, Clear, in Gel Form

%W& Texapon WW 99 Texapon N40 Perfume, w a t e r - s o l u b l e Water N o t e : WAS 21% Formula No. L61-24

10.0

40.0 2.0

48.0

Bubble Bath, Clear, in Gel Form

%w/w Texapon N 4 0 50.0 Dehyton AB30 20.0 Pine perfume 4.0 Water 26.0 N o t e : The p e r f u m e s p e c i f i e d i s s u i t a b l e f o r t h i s b u b b l e b a t h i n g e l f o r m . O t h e r p e r f u m e s t o b e used must b e checked i n p a r t i c u l a r w i t h r e g a r d t o t h e i r i n f l u e n c e on t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h e gel preparation. WAS2O% V i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g s h o u l d be a v o i d e d t o p r e v e n t a i r p o c k e t s f o r m i ng Bubble Bath, Opaque, in Gel Form %w/W Texapon N70 50.0 Texapon TH 30.0 Comperlan LS 3.0 C e t i o l HE 5.0 Sodium c h l o r i d e 3.0 C o n i f l o r perfume 2.0 Water 7.0 N o t e : The p e r f u m e s p e c i f i e d i s s u i t a b l e f o r t h i s b u b b l e b a t h i n g e l f o r m . O t h e r p e r f u m e s t o b e used must b e checked i n p a r t i c u l a r w i t h r e g a r d t o t h e i r i n f l u e n c e on t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h e WAS 53% gel preparation. Formula No. L61-27

Bubble Bath, Cloudy, Liquid Texapon N 40 Comperlan KD A n t a r a 430 Water N o t e : Medium v i s c o u s , Formula No. L61-29

%!!Y.\", 50.0

3.0 1 .o

46.0 WAS 17%

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c

Model Formulae

34

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Bubble Bath Oil for Babies and Children

%w/w Texapon WW 99 Eutanol G Perfume N o t e : WAS 75% F o r m u l a No. R64-01

75.0 23.0 2.0

Bubble Bath Oil for Babies and Children %w/W 60.0 38.0 2.0

Texapon WW 99 C e t i o l HE Perfume N o t e : WAS 60% F o r m u l a N o . R64-02 Bath Oil for Babies and Children

% K W 10.0 40.0

Dehydol LS2 DE0 Aethoxal B Cetiol A M y r i t o l 318 Perfume Formula No. R65-01

30.0 15.0 5.0

Bath Oil for Babies and Children

~P~~

%YLW

Dehydol LS2 DE0 10.0 Eutanol G 20.0 Isopropyl myri s t a t e o r p a l m i t a t e 25.0 M y r i t o l 318 40.0 Perfume 5.0 N o t e : I t i s a d v i s a b l e t o use p e r f u m e o i l s w h i c h have a good c o m p a t i b i l i t y w i t h t h e mucous membranes. Formula N o . R65-02 Powder for Babies and Children %W!!

Lanette 0 Eutanol G Zinc stearate Rice starch Kaol i n Talc Note: Mix a l l i n g r e d i e n t s , t o obtain f i n e particles. Formula No. R81-01

SOURCE:

2.0 2.0 5.0 51 . O 20.0 20.0 t h e n g r i n d and s i f t them m e c h a n i c a l l y

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

Bath and Shower Products

35

Bubble Bath, Pearly Liquid

s/ow/w Texapon N70 30.0 E u p e r l a n PK771 15.0 Sodium c h l o r i d e 4.0 Perfume 1 .o Water 50.0 N o t e : H i g h v i s c o u s , WAS 25% P r e p a r a t i o n : Sodium c h l o r i d e must be d i s s o l v e d i n t h e s m a l l e s t q u a n t i t y o f water p o s s i b l e t o produce a s a t u r a t e d s a l i n e s o l u t i o n . The s o l u t i o n i s t h e n s t i r r e d i n t o t h e u n d i l u t e d Texapon N70 and s t i r r e d u n t i l t h e m i x t u r e has a l o w v i s c o s i t y . The r e s t o f t h e w a t e r , E u p e r l a n PK771 and t h e p e r f u m e a r e t h e n added. Formula No. L64-01 Bubble Bath, Pearly Liquid Texapon N40 E u p e r l a n PK 771 Perfume Water N o t e : H i g h v i s c o u s , WAS 19% Formula L64-04

%Wf w 50.0 20.0 2.0 28.0

Bubble Bath, Pearly Liquid Texapon N40 Texapon SG C e t i o l HE Comperlan KD Perfume Water Note: High viscous, Formula No. L64-06

%WlW 30.0 20.0 6.0 3.0 1.0 40.0 WAS 16%

Bubble Bath with Whey Additive, Pearly

"/m

Texapon N25 47.1 Lamepon S-TR 22.0 Sweet whey powder 10.0 Lamesoft 156 5.0 Perfume 0.3 Sodium c h l o r i d e 0.6 Water 15.0 N o t e : V i s c o u s , WAS 22% P r e p a r a t i o n : The sweet whey powder i s suspended i n w a t e r and t h e n added t o t h e Texapon N25, Lamepon S-TR, p e r f u m e m i x t u r e . F i n a l l y , Lamesoft 156 and sodium c h l o r i d e a r e added. Formula No. L64-10 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

36

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Bubble Bath in Powder Form

“/ow/w Texapon Z H i g h l y Conc. Powder o r Texaoon K 12 Comperl an 100 F i 11 i n g s : Sodi um c h l o r i d e Tartaric acid o r c i t r i c acid

50.0 2.0 38.0 10.0

N o t e : WAS 47% Formula No. L81-01 Bubble Bath in Tablet Form with Formation of Carbonic Acid

ww/w Texapon Z H i g h l y Conc. Powder Tartaric acid Sodi um b i c a r b o n a t e Uranin Magnesi um s t e a r a t e Dry perfume

25.0 32.0 32.0 0.1 0.9 10.0

N o t e : WAS 22% Formula N o . L82-01 Bubble Bath in Tablet Form with Formation of Carbonic Acid

o/,w/w Texapon Z H i g h l y Conc. Powder Tartaric acid Sodi um b i c a r b o n a t e Sodium s u l f a t e Uranin Magnesi um s t e a r a t e D r y perfume

10.0 20.5 32.0 27 0 0.1 I

0.4 10.0

N o t e : WAS 9% P r e p a r a t i o n : T a r t a r i c a c i d , sodium b i c a r b o n a t e and sodium s u l f a t e , p a r t o f w h i c h i s mixed w i t h t h e d r y perfume, a r e passed t h r o u g h a 1 mm mesh s i e v e and mixed w i t h Texapon H i g h l y Conc. Powder. The u r a n i n i s mixed t h o r o u g h l y w i t h t h e magnesium s t e a r a t e i n t h e m o r t a r and f i n a l l y added t o t h e above powder m i x t u r e . The powder can t h e n be compressed. Formula N o . L82-02

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

Bath and Shower Products

37

Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion Rich emulsion c o n t a i n i n g alpha hydroxy a c i d t o g e n t l y e x f o l i a t e and r e j u v e n a t e t h e s k i n . Ingredients: 1 . G r i l l o c o s e PS ( M e t h y l G l u c o s e Sesqui s t e a r a t e ) 2 . Behenyl A l c o h o l ( L a n e t t e 22) 3 . M i n e r a l O i l 9NF 4. O c t y l O c t a n o a t e ( T e g o s o f t €E) 5 . Sodium C e t e a r y l S u l f a t e ( L a n e t t e E)

%w/w

Function

3.00 3.00 7.50 7.50 0.10

Emulsifier Thickener Emoll ie n t Emol 1 ie n t Emulsifier, C1 e a n i n g Humectant Thickener

6. Glycerine 3.00 7 . Xanthan Gum ( K e l t r o l CG-T) 0.40 ---8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 64.00 9 . P a t l a c LA ( L a c t i c Acid-88%) 5.60 Hydroxy A c i d 1 0 . Sodi um H y d r o x i de ( 2 0 % S o l n ) pH A d j u s t e r 5.00 Preservative 11 . G l y d a n t q.s. 1 2 . F r a a r a n c e - N a t u r e ' s H e r b a l #165-050 0.20 Odor Compoukdi ng P r o c e d u r e : Add P a t l a c LA t o 10% w a t e r and a d j u s t pH w i t h Sodium H y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n t o 3 . 8 . I n r e m a i n i n g w a t e r , d i s s o l v e i t e m 7 . Add i t e m s 5 and 6 and h e a t t o 80C. S e p a r a t e l y h e a t i t e m s 1-4 t o 80C. Add i t e m s 1-4 t o i t e m s 5-8 and m i x . W h i l e m i x i n g , c o o l t o 45C and add i t e m s 1 1 and 1 2 . A t 40C add p r e p a r e d L a c t i c A c i d s o l u t i o n (pH 3 . 8 ) and homogen i ze R e f . No. 119-7

.

.

Facial Moisturizing Lotion E l e g a n t m i n e r a l o i l and l a n o l i n based e m u l s i o n .

u !w

Inaredients: 1. Ritapro 2. Mineral 3. L a n o l i n 4. R i t a p r o

165 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) Oil X - t r a DE0 ( R . I . T . A . L a n o l i n ) 100 ( R . I . T . A . Blend)

4.00 5.00 0.50 1.50

Function Emulsifier Emollient Emol 1 ie n t Emu1s i f ie r , Viscosity A f t e r Feel

5 . D i m e t h i c o n e (Dow 225 F l u i d ) 0.40 6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 81.70 7. Propylene Glycol 6.00 Moi s t u r i z a t i o n 8 . P o l y q u t a 3000 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - I O ) A f t e r Feel 0.50 9. Glvdant P r e s e r v a t ive 0.20 10.Fragrance L i g h t Musk 169-119 0.20 Odor Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s s o l v e P o l y q u t a 3000 i n w a t e r . Add i t e m 7 and h e a t t o 7 0 C . S e p a r a t e l y h e a t i t e m s 1 - 5 t o 70C. Add t h i s m i x t u r e t o w a t e r m i x t u r e . M i x t o u n i f o r m and c o o l t o 40C. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and perfume R e f . No. 119-35

----

-

.

SOURCE:

R.I.T.A.

C o r p . : S k i n Care F o r m u l a r y

38

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Bubble Bath Oil, Clear, Liquid

"/ow/w Texapon N40 C e t i o l HE Isopropyl myristate or palmitate Perfume Water N o t e : WAS 14% Formula No. L63-01

50.0

20.0 10.0 3.0 17.0

Bubble Bath Oil, Anhydrous, Clear, Liquid

"/ow/w Texapon WW 9 9 C e t i o l HE Eutanol G Perfume N o t e : WAS 70% Formula No. L63 . 0 5

70.0 15.0 10.0 5.0

Bubble Bath Oil, Anhydrous, Clear

s/Qw/w Cetiol R C e t i o l HE Texapon WW 99 Perfume o i l N o t e : WAS 57% Formula No. L63-08

30.0 10.0 58.0 2.0

Rosemary Oil Bubble Bath

o/ow/w Texapon TH 27.0 Lamepon ST40 11.3 Comperlan KD 1.3 Lamesoft LMG 5.2 L a m a c i t GML 2 0 13.0 O i 1 o f rosemary 8.7 Water 33.5 N o t e : Low v i s c o u s , WAS 28% Preparation: L a m e c i t GML 20 and O i l o f rosemary a r e m i x e d and added t o Texapon TH, Lamepon ST40, Comperlan KD and Lamesoft LMG. The water i s then s t i r r e d i n . Formula No. L63-14 SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA:

Cosmetic Model Formulae

Bath and Shower Products

39

Care-Shower-Bath Clear, 13.5% active ingredient Recipe: Genapol LRO 1 i q u i d 30.00% Sodium L a u r e t h .Sui f a t e 5.00% Hostapon KCG Sodi um Cocoyl G1 u t a m a t e 0.50% Perfume 2.00% C e t i o l HE PEG-7 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e A1 1a n t o i n 0.40% 52.60% Water 6.00% Genagen CAB Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne 2.00% Genapol L-3 Lau r e t h- 3 Dyestuff solution q.s. q.s. P r e s e r v a t iv e 1.50% Sodium c h l o r i d e Procedure: I One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f B a r e added t o A . I 1 D i s s o l v e C i n warmed D , 111 S t i r I 1 i n t o I. I V One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f E a r e added t o I11 V I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. V I F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h F. Care-Shower-Bath With silky lustre effect, 15.0% active ingredient Recipe: 0.40% A Allantoin 0.50% Polymer JR 400 Polyquaternium-IO 48.30% B Water 30.00% C Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 5.00% D Hostapon KCG Sodium Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e 0.50% Perfume 2.00% C e t i o l HE PEG-7 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e 4.00% Genapol TSM PEG-3 D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e q.s. Dyestuff solution q.s. Preservative 6.00% Genagen CAB Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e 2 * 00% Genapol L-3 Laureth-3 1 .30% D Sodium c h l o r i d e Procedure: I D i s s o l v e t h e components o f A i n warmed 8 . I 1 One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f C a r e added t o I I11 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. I V F i n a l l y a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h D. SOURCE: H o e c h s t : F o r m u l a t i o n s A 1 / 8 0 6 3 & A I / 8 0 8 2

40

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Clear Foam Bath with Gluadin AGP Component: % Texapon NSO 30.0 10.0 Dehyton K P1a n t a r e n 1 2 0 0 10.0 Lamesoft LMG 4.0 0.5 G l u a d i n AGP Perfume q. s. Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e up t o 100 p H - v a l u e : 6,5 WAS: 17% A n i o n i c / A m p h o t e r i c s u r f a c t a n t c o n t e n t p r o p o r t i o n : 11,5% V i s c o s i t y mPas: 6500 H i n t : K i n d and amount o f perfume may i n f l u e n c e t h e v i s c o s i t y o f the product. F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 89/366/14 Stimulating, Clear Foam Bath with Balm Mint Extract Component: 4 Texapon NSO 20.0 Dehyton K 10.0 P1 a n t a r e n 1 2 0 0 20.0 Cremogen M e l i s s e 1.o C e t i o l HE 5.0 Perfume q.s. Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e up t o 100 pH-Val u e : 6 , 5 WAS: 19% A n i o n i c / A m p h o t e r i c s u r f a c t a n t c o n t e n t : 8,6% V i s c o s i t y mPas: 4000 H i n t : K i n d and amount o f perfume may i n f l u e n c e t h e v i s c o s i t y o f the product. F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 89/366/1 Bubble Bath with Plantaren 2000 and Essential Oil Component: % Balm mint o i l 5.0 Eumulgin L 15.0 P l a n t a r e n 2000 30.0 Dehyton K 10.0 A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d 3.8 Arlypon F 1.5 Perfume 9,s. Water, p r e s e r v a t i ve UD t o 1 0 0 pH-Val ue : 6 , 5 WAS: 18% H i n t : K i n d and amount o f perfume may i n f 1uence t h e v i s c o s i t y o f the product. F o r m u l a t i o n No. : 92/056/24 SOURCE: H e n k e l K G a A : Model F o r m u l a e

Bath and Shower Products

41

Cream Bubble Bath Texapon N25 Comperlan KD Cetiol A C u t i n a AGS Perfume N o t e : Medium v i s c o u s , Formula No. L62-01

86.0 3.0 3.0 6.0 2.0 WAS 27%

Cream Bubble Bath Texapon N40 C e t i o l HE E u p e r l a n PK 771 Perfume Water N o t e : Medi um v i scous, WAS 15% Formula No. L62-03

50.0 10.0 5.0 2.0 33.0

Cream Bubble Bath For Tube Filling

%w/w Texapon N40 Texapon MLS Cetiol HE Isopropyl myristate or palmitate E u p e r l a n PK771 Comperlan KD Sodium c h l o r i d e Perfume Water N o t e : WAS 21% Formula No. 162-04

20.0 20.0 5.0 3.0 20.0 4.0 3.0 1.o 24.0

Cream Bubble Bath for Tube Filling

%w/w Texapon N70 40.0 Comperlan OD 4.0 C u t i n a AGS 4.0 Isopropyl Myristate or Palmitate 10.0 Sodium c h l o r i d e 5.0 Perfume 1.o Water 36.0 N o t e : WAS 32% P r e p a r a t i o n : The s u b s t a n c e s a r e m i x e d and h e a t e d on t h e w a t e r b a t h u n t i l a homogeneous m e l t i s o b t a i n e d . A f t e r i t has c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C, t h e p e r f u m e i s added and t h e w a t e r t h a t has e v a p o r a t e d is r e p 1 a c e d , Formula No. L62-05

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

42

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Floating Bath Oil Innredients: 1 , M i n e r a l O i l #7 2. R i t a c h o l (Mineral O i l (and) L a n o l i n Alcohol ) 3 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l Lactyl ate) 4 . R i t a w a x ALA ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 5. Patlac I L (Isostearyl Lactate) 6. Fragrance Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s i n o r d e r u n t i l c l e a r . R e f . No. 118-193

%w/w 78.00 5.00

Function Emol 1 ie n t S i l k y Feel

4.00

Substantive

5.00 7.00 1.00

S k i n Feel Anti-Grease Odor

Blooming Bath Oil with Shebu A n o n - g r e a s y b l o o m i n g b a t h o i l . Added u n i q u e m o i s t u r i z a t i o n . Insredients: %w/w Function 1 . W h i t e M i n e r a l O i l #7 68.00 Feel 2 . PEG-400 M o n o l a u r a t e 14.00 Conditioning 3 . Shebu, R e f i n e d (Shea B u t t e r ) 2.00 Smoothness 4 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l 6.50 Moisture Lactyl ate) 5. P a t l a c I L ( I s o s t e a r y l Lactate) 4.00 Moisture 6. R i t o l e t h - 5 (Oleth-5) 2.50 Bloom 7. A r l a c e l - C 1.OO Bloom 2.00 Odor 8 . F r a g r a n c e - A l p i n e 165-049 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1-7 and h e a t t o 50C. M i x u n t i l c l e a r and c o o l t o 40C. Add f r a g r a n c e , c o o l and package. R e f . No. 118-192 Shebu Floating Bath Oil An e l e g a n t b a t h o i l w i t h t a l c - l i ke f e e l . Inqredi ents %w/w 'I . M i n e r a l O i l - 70 w t . 75.00 2 . Shebu R e f i n e d (Shea B u t t e r ) 3.00 3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i 1 ( a n d ) L a n o l in 5.00 Alcohol ) 4 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l 4.00 Lactylate) 5 . R i t a w a x ALA ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 5.00 6. P a t l a c I L ( I s o s t e a r y l L a c t a t e ) 7.00 7. Fragrance 1 .oo Compounding P r o c e d u r e : B l e n d a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . R e f . No. 117-55

SOURCE:

R.I.T.A.

Corp. : Shower/Bath

Care

F u n c t ion Emol 1 ie n t Emol 1 ie n t S k i n Feel Moi s t u r i z ation Emoll ie n t M i 1dness Odor

Bath and Shower Products

43

Gel After Bath Freshener A c l e a r g e l b a t h f r e s h e n e r w h i c h l i q u i f i e s r a p i d l y upon appl i c a t i o n . F o r m u l a t e d t o h e l p s o f t e n , smooth and c o n d i t i o n s k i n . Inaredients: 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 941 (Carbomer 9 4 1 ) 3. Glydant 4. Propylene Glycol 5 . SD A l c o h o l - 4 0 6 . Laneto-50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 7. Fragrance 8 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 8 50%

%w/w 69.27 0.15 0.20 5.00 23.00 1 .oo 1 .oo

0.30 0.08

9 . Versene-EDTA

Function

_---

Ge 1 Preservative Moisture Refreshing Smoothness Odor N e u t r a l ization Clarity

Compoundi n g P r o c e d u r e : Add i t e m 2 t o w a t e r w i t h h i g h s h e e r a g i t a t i o n . A f t e r c o m p l e t e h y d r a t i o n add i t e m s 3 - 9. A g i t a t e u n t i l r e s u l t a n t g e l i s c l e a r and smooth. R e f . No.

118-187 After Bath Splash

A h i g h l y e m o l l i e n t , non-drying a f t e r bath splash which r e f r e s h e s w h i l e i t m o i s t u r i z e s . E x c e l l e n t a f t e r - f e e l and p e r f u m e s o l u b i 1 iz a t i o n . Ingredients: 1 E t h a n o l -95 2 . P a t l a c NAL (Sodium L a c t a t e ) 3. Patlac I L (Isostearyl Lactate) 4. P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l Lactylate) 5 . Perfume 6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water

.

%w/w 70.00 5.00 4.00 2.00 2.70 16.30

Function Refreshment Moisture Emollient Conditioni ng Odor

----

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1-5 and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . S l o w l y add w a t e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . F i l t e r i f d e s i r e d . R e f . No. 118-188

SOURCE: R . 1 , T . A .

Corp.:

Shower/Bath Care

44

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hand and Bath Gel

%w/w

Ingredients: Phase A . Sodi um I s e t h i o n a t e Sod1 urn L a u r y l S u l f a t e (30%) 01 sod1 um L a u r e t h - 3 S u l f o s u c c i n a t e Water

3.00 15.00 10.00 25.00

Phase 8 : A c r y l a t e s / S t e a r e t h S t e a r a t e - 5 0 A c r y l a t e Copolymer (and) L a u r e t h - 3 (and) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( A n t i l 208) Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne (Tego B e t a i ne F50) Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ( a n d ) G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Cocamide MEA ( a n d ) Cocamide DEA (Tego P e a r l 8 - 4 8 ) D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l (Abi 1 88851) G1 y c e r i n PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate ( T e g o s o f t GC) Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) Sodium PCA ( a n d ) G l y c i n e ( a n d ) F r u c t o s e ( a n d ) Urea ( a n d ) N i a c i n a m i d e ( a n d ) I n o s i t o l ( a n d ) Sodium Benzoate ( a n d ) L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l ) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( I s o l a n G I 34) Water P r e s e r v a t i ves

1.oo 11.75 2.50 0.75 3.00 0.75 1 .oo 1 .oo 25.25

Q.S.

Procedure: 1 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between a d d i t i o n s 2 . Add t h e A n t i l 2 0 8 , h e a t t o 40C. M i x w e l l . H i g h v i s c o s i t y may r e s u l t . Avoid a i r entrapment. 3 . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s - m i x i n g w e l l d u r i n g a d d i t i o n s . SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n Dispersible Bath Oil A l u x u r y r e s i d u a l s k i n f e e l derives from t h i s h i g h l y f r a g r a n c e d c l a s s i c " b l o o m i n g " b a t h o i l . Emulan O i l o f M i n k replacing mineral o i l w i l l enrich i t f u r t h e r . W t .% A.

Emulan, L i g h t F r a c t i o n PEG-8 D i o l e a t e Isopropyl Myri state Perfume

8 . Penetek 38/40

7.5 7.5 20.0 10.0 55.0

CTFA Mink O i l

Mineral O i l

Procedure: P r e - m i x Phase A a t RT, t h e n s l o w l y a d d m i n e r a l o i l w i t h continued s t i r r i n g . SOURCE:

Emulan,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Bath and Shower Products

45

Liquid Bubble Bath A h i g h l a t h e r non-drying bubble bath. Ingredients: 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . B i o t e r g e AS-40 (Sodium C14-16 O l e f i n Sulfonate) 3 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l Lactylate) 4. R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 5 . Laneto-50 (PEG-75 6. Fragrance 7. P r e s e r v a t i v e

Lanolin)

%w/w 47.30 40.00 3.00 5.00 4.00 0.50

0.20

F u n c t ion

---

Lather Moisture Lather Density S i l k y Feel Odor Preservative

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine f r a g r a n c e w i t h i t e m # 4 . Add i t e m #3 t o t h e p r e - m i x . Combine w a t e r and i t e m # 2 . Add p r e - m i x and a g i t a t e u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add i t e m #5. A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 8 i f n e c e s s a r y . R e f . N o . 118-189 Shebu Bubble Bath Powder A high-foaming bath product w i t h a l u x u r i o u s a f t e r - f e e l . Ingredients: 1 . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( D r y )

% ? 6 18.00

2. 3. 4. 5.

Sodium B i c a r b o n a t e Sodium S e s q u i c a r b o n a t e Sodium L a u r y l S u l f o a c e t a t e P a t i o n i c SSL (Sodium S t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e )

20.00 38.00 10.00 5.00

6. 7. 8. 9.

L a n e t o AWS (PPG-12, PEG-50 L a n o l i n ) Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) Fragrance Preservative

3.00 5.00 1.00 4.s.

Function Foam, Cleaning PH Chelating Mildness Moisture, MiI d S k i n Feel €mol 1iency Odor Preservative

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i n g r e d i e n t s 1-5 i n a r i b b o n b l e n d e r . P r e - m i x o t h e r in g r e d i e n t s and add t o b l e n d e r whi 1e m i x i n g , R e f . No. 117-60 SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:

Shower/Bath Care

Cosmetic und Toiletry Formulations

46

Pearlescent Shower Gel Has e x c e l l e n t f o a m i n g q u a l i t i e s and a b e a u t i f u l p e a r l f i n i s h . % by Weight 78.10

Inqredients: A . Water, Deionized 8 . C a r b o p o l 1342

C.

0.30 15.00 5.00

S t e o l CS-230 M o n a t e r i c CAB

0.10 0.50 1 .oo

D . AMP-95 F l o n a c MS Suttocide A

Procedure: Add A t o main k e t t l e . S l o w l y add B; m i x 1 h o u r , N e x t add C; m i x w e l l . Change t o sweep-type m i x e r . S l o w l y add D . M i x u n t i l smooth g e l d e v e l o p s . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0319 s u g g e s t e d by P r e s p e r s e Aloe Vera Herbal Shower Gel Ingredients: Part A: Deionized water Aloe vera gel concentrate 1 O : l Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , 27.5% Cocami de b e t a i ne C i t r i c a c i d t o pH 5 - 6

% by W e i g h t

32.43 4.00 50.00 10.00 ass

P a r t B: BHT Cocamide DEA

0.05 2.00

Part C: Fragrance

1 .oo

Part D: Bronopol Herbal e x t r a c t

0.02 0.50

Procedure: Combine A; h e a t t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . D i s s o l v e B w i t h h e a t i f n e c e s s a r y . Cool t o 40C; add C . Add BC t o A w i t h s t i r r i n g . Cool t o 30C; add D w i t h s t i r r i n g . T h i c k e n t o 5 , 0 0 0 t o 10,000 c p s w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . Package a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0234 s u g g e s t e d by A l o e c o r p .

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Bath and Shower Products

47

Pearlescent Shower Gel Component: 46 25.0 Texapon NSO 10.0 Texapon SB 3 P l a n t a r e n 2000 6.0 10.0 Dehyton K Cosmedia Guar C 261 N 0.5 C e t i o l HE 1. o E u p e r l a n PK 3000-AM 5.0 L a m e s o f t LMG 4.0 1 .o Arlypon F A n t i 1 141 L 1.5 Colour, perfume q.s. Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e u p t o 100 p H - v a l u e : 6,5 WAS: 17% V i s c o s i t y : 90,000 H i n t : K i n d and amount o f p e r f u m e may i n f l u e n c e t h e v i s c o s i t y o f the product. F o r m u l a t i o n No.: 92/087/92 Pearlescent Shower Bath with Refattener Component: % P l a n t a r e n PS 10 15.0 Dehyton K 10.0 L a m e s o f t LMG 4 .O E u p e r l a n PK 900 3 .O Perfume o i l q.s. Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e up t o 100 pH v a l u e : 5 , 5 WAS: 1 2 V i s c o s i t y mPas : 12000 H i n t : K i n d and amount o f p e r f u m e may i n f l u e n c e t h e v i s c o s i t y o f the product. F o r m u l a t i o n No. : 92/184/41 Mild, Pearlescent Cleansing Lotion Cornpone* ob P l a n t a r e n PS 10 16.0 Lamequat L 2.0 E u p e r l a n PK 900 3.0 Perfume o i l 9,s. NaCl 1.5 Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e up t o 100 pH v a l u e : 5 , 5 WAS: 10 V i s c o s i t y mPas: 3400 H i n t : K i n d and amount o f p e r f u m e may i n f l u e n c e t h e v i s c o s i t y o f the product. F o r m u l a t i o n No.: 92/184/43

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Model Formulae

48

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pearlescent Shower

Gel

Inaredients: Phase A : H20, D e i o n i z e d S t a n d a p o l ES-2 H e t a i n e CLA ( C a n o l a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) C e t i o l HE H e t o x o l L-2 ( L a u r e t h - 2 ) Hest E.G.D.S. (E.G.D.S.) H e t o x o l L-4 ( L a u r e t h - 4 ) C i t r i c Acid Phase 8 : Cropeptide W K a t h o n CG F . 0 . W . B l u e #1 (1% S o l . ) Specifications: pH: 5 . 0 - 6 . 0 V i s c o s i t y : #3/12:

%

46.38 40.00 7.00 6.00 0.50 0.35 0.30 0.04 0.30 0.07 0.06

7500 c p s

Procedure: 1 ) I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e , combine Phase A . while mixing. 2) Cool t o 45C, add Phase B. M i x w e l l .

H e a t t o 75C

F o r m u l a HSG 92-80 Bubble Bath Inaredients: H20, D e i o n i z e d Sodium L a u r e t h - 3 S u l f a t e Oecyl P o l y g l u c o s e H e t a i n e CLA ( C a n o l a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) Hetamide RC (Cocamide DEA) H e s t GC-7 (PEG-7 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ) Kathon CG C i t r i c Acid Specifications: pH: 7 . 0 0 V i s c o s i t y #3/12:

% 51.83 21 -00 12.00

10.00 4.00 1-00 0.07 0.10

2000 c p s

Procedure: I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l tank equipped w i t h a L i g h t n i n ' t y p e m i x e r , add i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e i n o r d e r l i s t e d . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . F o r m u l a HB 93-108-2

SOURCE: H e t e r e n e ,

Inc.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Bath and Shower Products

49

Protein and Honey Skin Bath

%w/w A.

Quat-Pro S ( S t e a r y l t r i m o n i u m Hydroxy E t h y l Hydrolyzed Collagen) Methylparaben D e i o n i z e d Water

B . May-Tein CT (TEA-Cocoyl H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ) Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e C o l l a g e n H y d r o l y z a t e Cosmetic N-55 ( H y d r o l y z e d C o l l agen) Honey

1.00 0.20 32.60

30.00 25.00 5.00 1.oo

C.

Fragrance, c o l o r D o w i c i l 200 (Quaternium-15)

q.s. 0.20

D.

Lemon j u i c e c o n c e n t r a t e C i t r i c A c i d t o pH 5 . 5

5.00 q.s.

Procedure: 1 . M i x and h e a t phase A t o 65C. M i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d and homogeneous. 2 . Add Phase 0 t o Phase A . M i x t o i n c o r p o r a t e . 3 . Add Phase C and D . M i x t o i n c o r p o r a t e . P r o p e r t ies : Very m i l d , n a t u r a l - t y p e s k i n c l e a n s e r and b e a u t y b a t h . A n t i d r y i n g , a n t i - i r r i t a n t e f f e c t s a r e p r o v i d e d by t h e f o a m i n g p r o t e i n (May-Tein C T ) . S k i n s u b s t a n t i v i t y i s h i g h because o f c a t i o n i c e f f e c t s o f q u a t e r n i z e d c o l l a g e n and c o l l a g e n h y d r o l y z a t e . F o r hand, f a c e and g e n e r a l body c l e a n s i n g . Makes a d e l i g h t f u l , r e f r e s h i n g b a t h foam.

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : Formula #SW-3006

Emollient Bath Gelee Mackol 70NS Mackami de LLM Mackanate EL Mackanate WGD Paragon P r e s e r v a t i v e W a t e r , Dye, F r a g r a n c e q s t o Procedure: 1 . Add Mackamide LLM t o Mackol 70NS. 2 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g components and h e a t t o 60C. 3 . B l e n d u n t i l homogeneous. A v o i d a e r a t i o n . 4 . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 5 . Cool and f i l l . SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Weiaht , % 17.0 20.0 20.0 10.0 q. s 100.0

50

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shebu After Bath Splash An e m o l l i e n t a f t e r b a t h s p l a s h . dryness. Extra m o i s t u r i z a t i o n .

Refreshment w i t h o u t s k i n

%w/w

Insredi ents: 1 . Fragrance 2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l Lactyl ate) 3 , Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) 4 . A I coho1 -95 5 . P a t l a c NAL (Sodium L a c t a t e ) 6. P a t l a c I L ( I s o s t e a r y l Lactate)

2.00 69.00 5.00 5.00

7 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water

15.00

Compoundi n P r o c e d u r e : Pre-mi x i t e m s 1 - 3 . P r e - m i x i t e m s 4-6. a g i t a t i o n . Add i n w a t e r u n t i l c l e a r .

2.00 2.00

Function Odor Moisturization Emol 1 ie n t Refreshment Moisturizing Skin Feel, Mild

----

Mix together w i t h

R e f . N o . 1 7-46 Shebu After Bath Lotion A l o w a coho1 m o i s t u r i z i n a l o t i o n w h i c h has c o o l i n g , properties. Substantive after-feel

.

%w/w

Ingredients: 1 . A c r i t a m e r 941 13 5% (Carbomer 941)

37.50

2 . D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water 3. Patlac I L (Isostearyl Lactate)

43. a6 1 .oo

4. Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) 5 . R i t a p r o 300 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d )

1 .oo 0.50

6.

1 .oo

P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y la t e ) 7 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 8 . Myristyl Lactate 9 . TEA @ 50% 10. A1 coho1 -95 11,Fragrance

0.50 1.00 0.64 12.00 1 .oo

soothing

Function Viscosity, Feel

----

Moi s t u r i zation Emollient Emu1s i f i c a tion Substanti vity Feel Smoothness PH Cool ing Odor

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 and 2 and h e a t t o 165F. P r e - m i x i t e m s 3-8 and h e a t t o 165F. Add t o w a t e r . Pre-mix i t e m s 9-11 and add, t h e n c o o l t o l l O F . A d j u s t p H t o 5.5.

SOURCE: R . 1 , T . A .

Corp.:

Shower/Bath Care

Bath and Shower Products

51

Shower-Bath With silky lustre effect, 19.0% active ingredient Recipe: Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e

40.00%

B

13.00%

A

D

Genapol AMG Maanesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S u l f a t e Genapol TSM PEG-3 D i s t e a r a t e ( a d ) Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e Perfume Water Dyestuff solution Preservative Genagen CAB Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a ne

4.00%

0.50% 32.30% q.s. q.s. 8.00% 22.00%

Sodium c h l o r i d e

Procedure: I One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f B a r e added t o A . I 1 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. I11 F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h C . Formula A I / 8 0 3 8 Shower-Bath Clear, 13.9% active ingredient Recipe: Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e

A

B

C

Genapol SBE D i s o d i um L a u r e t h S u l f o s u c c i n a t e Perfume Water Genapol L-3 Laureth-3 Dyestuff solution P r e s e r v a t ive

35.00%

8.00% 0.50% 52.00% 3.00% 4.s. 4,s.

Sodium c h l o r i d e

1.50%

Procedure: I One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f B a r e added t o A . I 1 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. 111 F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h C . Formula A I/8609 SOURCE: H o e c h s t : Guide F o r m u l a t i o n s

for C o s m e t i c s 8, T o i l e t r i e s

52

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shower-Bath With pearl lustre effect, 17.2% active ingredient Recipe: 6.00% A Hostapon CT p a s t e Sodium M e t h y l Cocoyl T a u r a t e 24.00% B Water 40.0D% C Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 6.00% Genapol AMG Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S u l f a t e 6.00% Genapol PGM f l u s s i g Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( a n d ) G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Cocamide MEA 0.70% Perfume 13.50% Water q.s. Dyestuff solution 9,s. Preservative 3.00% Genapol L-3 Laureth-3 0.80% D Sodium c h l o r i d e Procedure: I D i s s o l v e A i n warmed B. 11 One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f C a r e added t o I 111 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. I V F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h D. Formula A I/8057 Shower-Bath With silky lustre effect, 15.5% active ingredient Recipe: 5.00% Hostapon SCI Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e 20.00% B Water 30.00% C Genapol ZRO l i q u i d Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 4 .0 0 % Genapol TSM PEG-3 D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 0.50% Perfume 32.40% Water q.s. Dyestuff solution q.s. P r e s e r v a t ive 6.00% Genagen CAB Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne 2.10% D Sodium c h l o r i d e Procedure: I D i s s o l v e A i n warmed B. 1 1 One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f C a r e added t o I. I11 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. I V F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h D. Formula A I/8070

A

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s

Bath and Shower Products

53

Shower-Bath Clear, 16.4% active ingredient Recipe: 35.00% Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 10.00% Genapol AMG Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S u l f a t e 5.00% Hostapon KCG Sodium Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e 0.50% Perfume 0.40% A1 1a n t o i n 38.10% Water 8.00% Genagen CAB Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e q.s. Dyestuff s o l u t i o n 4.s. Preservative 1.50% Genapol L-3 Laureth-3 1.50% Sodium c h l o r i d e Procedure: I One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f B a r e added t o A . I 1 D i s s o l v e C i n warmed 8 . 1 1 1 S t i r 1 1 i n t o I. IV One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f E a r e added t o I 1 1 V I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. V I F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h F. Formula A I/8048 Shower-Bath Clear, 17.3% active ingredient Recipe: Genapol LRO l i q u i d 35.00% Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e B Hostapon SCHC 5.00% Sodium Cocoyl H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n Perfume 0.50% 42.00% Water 4.00% Hostapon LEC Laureth-3 Carboxylic Acid 2.70% C NaOH (10% i n w a t e r ) 10.00% D Genagen CAB Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e q.s. Dyestuff s o l u t i o n q.s. Preservative 0.80% E Sodium c h l o r i d e Procedure: I One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f B a r e added t o A . I 1 A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h C . 1 1 1 The components o f D a r e added t o 11. I V F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h E. Formula A I/8058

A

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : Guide F o r m u l a t i o n s for Cosmetics & T o i l e t r i e s

54

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shower-Bath With silky lustre effect, 24.0% active ingredient Recipe: Genapol LRO l i q u i d 40.00% Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e Genapol AMG 10.00% Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S u l f a t e Genapol TSM 4.00% PEG-3 D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e C e t i o l HE 4.00% PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate Perfume 0.50% D y e s t u f f s o l u t i on q.s. Preservative q.s. Genagen CAB 8.00% Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e Polymer J R 400 0.50% Polyquaternium-IO Water 30.00% Genapol L-3 2.00% Laureth-3 Sodium c h l o r i d e 1 .OO% Procedure: I One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f B a r e added t o A . I 1 D i s s o l v e C i n warmed D . I 1 1 S t i r I 1 i n t o I , t h e n add E . I V I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. V F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h F. Formula A 1/8066 Fitness-Shower-Bath Clear, 14.2% active ingredient Recipe: Genapol LRO l i q u i d 45.00% Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 15.00% Genapol AMG Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S u l f a t e B Menthol 0.20% Camphor 0.10% Rosmari n b a t h 0.30% C 1,2-Propylen g l y c o l 2.00% D Water 32.90% Horse c h e s t n u t e x t r a c t 0.50% D y e s t u f f s o l u t i on q.s. Preservative q.s. Genapol L-3 2.00% Laureth-3 E Sodium c h l o r i d e 2.00% Procedure: I Dissolve B i n C. 11. Add t h e s o l u t i o n o f I t o A . I 1 1 One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f D a r e added t o 1 1 . I V I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. V F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h E. Formula A I/8046 SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s A

Bath and Shower Products

55

Shower-Bath 2 in 1 18.3% active ingredient Recipe: Allantoin Polymer J R 40 0 P o l y q u a t e r n i urn-IO Hostapon S C I D Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e

A

0 40% 0.50% I

4.00%

.

B

Water

46 2 0%

C

Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodi urn L a u r e t h S u l f a t e Hostapon KCG Sodi urn Cocoyl G1 u t a m a t e Perfume C e t i o l HE PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate Genapol TSM PEG-3 D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Sodi urn L a u r e t h S u l f a t e Dyestuff solution Preservative Genagen CAB Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e Genapol L-3 Laureth-3

30.00%

D

Sodium c h l o r i d e

5.00% 0.50% 2.00%

.

4 0 0%

q.s. q.s. 5.00% 2.00%

0.70%

Procedure: I D i s s o l v e t h e components o f A by warming s t i r r i n g i n B (60C I 1 Cool down and add components o f C a t 3 5 C under s t i r r i n g . I 1 1 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. I V F i n a l l y adjust t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h D.

SOURCE:

H o e c h s t : Guide F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmetics & T o i l e t r i e s F o r m u l a t i o n A I/8061

56

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shower Bath, Clear

o/ow/w Texapon N40 C e t i o l HE Comperlan KD Sodium c h l o r i d e Perfume, w a t e r - s o l u b l e Water Note: High viscous, Formula No. L65-01

50.0 3.0 2.0 3.0 1.0 41 . O

WAS 16%

Shower Bath, Clear, Liquid

%w/w Texapon N25 Texapon T H Comperlan KM Comperlan KD Perfume Water

20.0 20.0 3.0 5.0 1.o 51 .O

N o t e : Medium v i s c o u s , Formula No. L65-03

WAS 21%

Shower Bath, Clear, Liquid

96w/w Texapon N40 Aethoxal B Sodium c h l o r i d e Perfume Water

40.0 10.0 3.0 3.0 44.0

N o t e : Low v i s c o u s , WAS 11% F o r m u l a No. L65-05 Shower Bath, Clear, Liquid

%w/w Texapon MLS Texapon TH Comperlan L S C e t i o l HE Sodium c h l o r i d e Perfume Water N o t e : Medium v i s c o u s , WAS 26% Formula No. L65-06 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

40.0 20.0

3.0 5.0 1.5 1 .o 29.5

Bath and Shower Products

57

Shower Bath, Clear

w Texapon N40 Aethoxal B Dehyton AB30 Comperlan KD Perfume Water N o t e : Medium v i s c o u s , WAS 17% Formula No. L65-09

40.0 5.0 10.0 3.0 1.0 41 . O

Shower Bath, Clear, Especially Skin Compatible

s/ow/w Texapon K14S s p e c i a1 Comperlan LS Sodium c h l o r i d e Perfume C i t r i c a c i d 10% s o l u t i o n Water N o t e : WAS 16% Formula No. L65-11

46.0 3.0 1.0 1.o 0.4 48.6

Shower Bath, Clear, Especially Skin Compatible o w b j

Texapon K14S 70 s p e c i a l Comperlan LS Sodium c h l o r i d e C e t i o l HE Perfume C i t r i c a c i d 10% s o l u t i o n Water N o t e : WAS 16% Formula No. L65-14

18.5 3.0 2.0 5.0 1.0 0.6 69.9

Shower Bath, Clear, Especially Skin Compatible K

Texapon K14S 70 s p e c i a l Comperlan LS Sodium c h l o r i d e Perfume C i t r i c a c i d 10% s o l u t i o n Water N o t e : WAS 23% Formula No. L65-16

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Modal Formulae

W

27.0 3.0 2.3 1.o 0.6 66.1

58

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shower Bath, Clear Refatting Texapon K14S 7 0 s p e c i a l Comperlan LS Sodium c h l o r i d e C e t i o l HE Perfume C i t r i c a c i d 10% s o l u t i o n Water N o t e : WAS 22% F o r m u l a No. L65-17

%wy 27.0 2.0 2.0

5.0 1.0 0.6 62.4

Sport Shower Bath Especially Skin Compatible YYWd

40.0 2.0 1.0 10.0 2.0 1.o 44.0

Texapon K14S s p e c i a1 Comperl an COD Sodium c h l o r i d e Dehyton K C e t i o l HE Perfume Water N o t e : WAS 16% Formula N o . L65-19 Protein Shower Bath

%-WW 53.6 Texapon N25 16.7 Lamepon S 2.0 Comperlan KD 2.0 Lamesoft LMG 5.7 Nutrilan L 0.4 Perfume 0.5 Sodium c h l o r i d e 19.1 Water N o t e : H i g h v i s c o u s , WAS 23% P r e p a r a t i o n : M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown above Comperlan KD and Lamesoft LMG s h o u l d b e worked i n w h i l e a l i t t l e heat i s applied. F o r m u l a No. L65-22

Shower Bath in Aerosol Form

% U W Texapon ASV Dehyton K Comperlan KD C e t i o l HE Perfume Water N o t e : WAS 22% F i l l i n g : 92 p a r t s shower b a t h 8 p a r t s F r i g e n 12 Formula No. L65-26

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

50.0

10.0 4.0 10.0 1.0 25.0

Bath and Shower Products

59

Shower Bath Gel Shower g e l based on n a t u r a l s u c r o s e e s t e r s . M i l d n e s s w h i l e l e a v i n g a smooth s k i n f e e l . Ingredients: 1 . G r i l l o t e n LSE-87K S o f t ( S u c r o s e Cocoate) 2. D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 3 . Sodium L a u r e t h - 2 S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l ES-2) 4 . D i s o d i u m Cocamphodiacetate (Mackam 2C) 5 . PEG-55 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l O l e a t e ( A n t i 1 141B ) Blend) 6. R i t a s y n t I P ( R . I . T . A . 7 . C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l n ) 8. Fragrance 9. Preservative

46w/w 4.00 38.95 44.00

F u n c t ion M i 1dness

----

8.00

Lather Lather

1.50 3.00 0,20 0.25 0.10

Viscosity Opacity pH Control Odor Preservative

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m 1 w i t h 30% o f t h e w a t e r . Heat t o 175F w i t h m i x i n g . Combine i t e m s 3-6 w i t h r e m a i n i n g w a t e r and h e a t t o 175F. Add t o o t h e r p r e - m i x . Cool t o 120F. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and p e r f u m e . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 0 i f necesary. R e f . No. 118-186 Shower/Bath Gel Low eye i r r i t a t i o n f o r m u l a t i o n . Inqredients: 1 . G r i l l o t e n LSE 65K ( S u c r o s e C o c o a t e ) 2 . P a t i o n i c 138C (Sodium L a u r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 4 . Sodium L a u r e t h - 2 - S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l ES-2) 5 . Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Mackam J ) 6 . Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . )

%w/w 2.00 1 .80 40.90 45.00 8.00 2.00 0.20 0.10

7. Fragrance 8 . P r e s e r v a t iv e

Function Mildness Eye M i l d n e s s

___-_

Lather Lather Viscosity Control Odor Preservative

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 and 2 w i t h 25% o f t h e w a t e r . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Combine i t e m s 4 and 5 and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add f i r s t p r e - m i x t o second w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add i t e m s 7 and 8 and a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y as d e s i r e d w i t h i t e m 6. R e f . No.

118-185

SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:

Shower/Bath Care

60

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shower/Bath Gel N o n - d r y i n g f o r m u l a t i o n d e s i g n e d t o c l e a n and l e a v e s k i n moisturized.

%w/w Ingredients: 3.00 1 . G r i l l o t e n LSE-87K ( S u c r o s e Cocoate) 0.50 2 . R i t a EGDS ( G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ) 2.50 3 . P a t i o n i c 138C (Sodium L a u r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 4 . PEG-55 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l O l e a t e ( A n t i 1 1-00 1418) 40.60 5 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 6 . Sodium L a u r e t h - 2 - S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l ES-2) 51 - 0 0 1 .oo 7 . Promois ECP ( C o l l a g e n ) 0.10 8 . C i t r i c A c i d 13 50% 0.20 9. Fragrance 0.10 10.Preservative

Function M i 1dness Opacity Mildness Feel

----

Lather Conditioning pH C o n t r o l Odor Preservative

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1,3,5 and 6 and h e a t t o 160F w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Combine i t e m s 2 and 4 and m i x a t 160F. Add t o b a t c h w i t h m i x i n g . Cool t o 12OF and add i t e m s 9 and 1 0 . Cool t o l l O F and add i t e m 7 . A d j u s t pH t o 6.0-6.5 w i t h i t e m 8 . R e f . No. 118-183 Silky Feel Shower Gel H i a h l a t h e r shower a e l base w i t h added m o i s t u r i z a t i o n . S i l k y skin feel. Inaredients: 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h - 3 - S u l f a t e ( S t a n d a p o l ES-3) 2 . R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 3 . Ritawax-15 (Laneth-15) 4. P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 5 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 6. Methylparaben 7 . R i t a PEO-2 (PEG-9M) 8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 9 . Fragrance 1 0 . Kathon CG

%w/w 53.00 4.00 3.00 3.00 0.50 0.15 0.25 35.65 0.40 0.05

F u n c t ion Cleaning Lather Moisture Moisture Viscosity P r e s e r v a t ve S i l k y Fee

----

Odor P r e s e r v a t ve

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat i t e m s 1-6 t o 165F. S l o w l y add i t e m 7 t o w a t e r , m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Heat t o 165F. Add t o i t e m s 1 - 6 and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e a f t e r c o o l i n g t o 120F. R e f . No. 116-143

SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:

Shower/Bath Care

Bath and Shower Products

Shower Bath, Pearly, Especially Skin Compatible

96w/w Texapon ASV Oehyton K C u t i n a EGMS Perfume Water

35.0 15.0 2.0 1 .o 47.0

N o t e : WAS 15% Formula No. L66-23 Shower Bath, Pearly, Especially Skin Compatible

%w/w Texapon ASV Texapon MLS Comperlan COO C e t i o l HE E u p e r l an MPK850 Sodiuum c h l o r i d e Water

25.0 25.0 3.0 2.0 8.0 2.0 35.0

N o t e : WAS 20% Formula No. L66-25 Shower Bath. Pearly, Especially Skin Compatible % &

Texapon A S V Texapon TH Comperl an OD C e t i o l HE E u p e r l a n MPK 8 5 0 Water

20.0 20.0 4.0 2.0 8.0 46.0

N o t e : WAS 22% Formula No. L66-27 Shower Bath, Pearly, Especially Skin Compatible Texapon ASV Texapon MG Comperlan 00 Aethoxal B E u p e r l a n MPK 8 5 0 Water N o t e : V i s e o u s , WAS 15% Formula No. L66-28 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

20.0 15.0 3.0 2.0 8.0 52.0

61

62

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shower Bath, Pearly Texapon N25 Texapon EVR Comperlan K O Perfume Water N o t e : H i g h v i s c o u s , WAS 19% Formula No. L66-01

%w/w 20.0 30.0 2.0 1.o 47.0

Shower Bath, Pearly

~~

Texapon N40 Texapon EVR Comperlan KD C e t i o l HE Perfume Water N o t e : H i g h v i s c o u s , WAS 19% Formula No. L66-03

%w/w 20.0 30.0

2.0 5.0 1.o 42.0

Shower Bath, Pearly for Tube Filling

%w/w

Texapon N40 C u t i n a AGS Comperlan 0 0 Comperlan K D Cetiol A Perfume Water N o t e : WAS 23% Formula No. L 6 6 - 0 5

50.0 7.0 5.0 4.0 5.0 2.0 27.0

Shower Bath, Pearly ~~~

Texapon K 1 4 S s p e c i a1 E u p e r l an PK810 Comperlan K O Sodium c h l o r i d e Perfume C i t r i c a c i d 10% s o l u t i o n Water N o t e : WAS 15% F o r m u l a No. 66-07

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

%w/w 30.0 10.0 3.0 0.5 1. o 0.5 55.0

Bath and Shower Products

63

Shower Bath, Pearly, Refatting Texapon K14S s p e c i a1 E u p e r l a n PK 810 Comperlan KD C e t i o l HE Perfume C i t r i c a c i d 10% s o l u t i o n Water N o t e : WAS 18% Formula No. L66-09

40.0 10.0 3.0 3.0 1. o 0.4 42.6

Shower Bath, Pearly Texapon K14S 70 s p e c i a l Sodium c h l o r i d e E u p e r l an PK810 Comperlan KD Perfume C i t r i c a c i d 10% s o l u t i o n Water N o t e : WAS 15% Formula No. L66-11

12.0 2.0 10.0 3.0 1. o 0.6 71.4

Shower Bath, Pearly, Refatting Texapon K14S 70 spec a1 Sodium c h l o r i d e E u p e r l a n PK 810 Comperlan KD C e t i o l HE Perfume C i t r i c a c i d 10% s o l u i o n Water N o t e : WAS 15% Formula No. L66-12

@!y& 12.0 2.0 10.0 3.0 3.0 1.o 0.6 68.4

Shower Bath, Pearly, Refatting Texapon K14S 70 s p e c i a l Sodium c h l o r i d e E u p e r l a n PK810 Comperlan KD Perfume C i t r i c a c i d 10% s o l u t i o n Water N o t e : WAS 14% Formula No. L66-14

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

19.0 2.0 10.0 2.0 1.o 0.6

65.4

64

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shower Bath, Pearly, Refatting Texapon K14S 70 s p e c i a l Sodium c h l o r i d e E u p e r l a n PK 810 Comperlan K D C e t i o l HE Perfume C i t r i c a c i d 10% s o l u t i o n Water N o t e : WAS 20% Formula No. L66-15

%w/w 19.0 2.0 10.0 2.0 5.0 1 .o 0.6 60.4

Shower Bath, Pearly, Especially Skin Compatible Texapon K14S s p e c i a1 Dehyton G E u p e r l a n P K 771 Comperlan COD Sodium c h l o r i d e C e t i o l HE Perfume C i t r i c a c i d 10% s o l u t i o n Water N o t e : WAS 18% Formula N o . L66-17

%w/w 40.0 10.0 3.0 2.0 0.5

2.0

1 .o 2.0 39.5

Shower Bath, Pearly, Especially Skin Compatible Texapon K14S s p e c i a1 Dehyton K E u p e r l a n PK771 Comperl an COD Sodium c h l o r i d e C e t i o l HE Perfume Water N o t e : WAS 18% Formula No. L66-19

%w/w 40.0 10.0 3.0 2.0 0.5 2.0

1.0 41 . 5

Shower Bath, Pearly, Especially Skin Compatible Texapon ASV Dehyton AB30 E u p e r l an PK810 Perfume Water N o t e : WAS 20% Formula No. L66-20

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

%w/w 38.0 19.0 5.0 0.5 37.5

Bath and Shower Products

65

Shower Bath & Emulsion "Two in One" Component: % I Eumulgin B 2 1 .o Eutanol G 3.0 Lamecreme DGE 18 4.0 I 1 L y t r o n 631 2.0 Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e up t o 100 I 1 1 P l a n t a r e n PS 10 40.0 I V Perfume 0.5 V i s c o s i t y mPas: 20000 WAS: 24,5 pH-value: 5,6 Procedure: M e l t components u n d e r I a t 70-80C and m i x homogeneously. Heat phase I 1 t o 75C, add t o I and s t i r a t t e m p e r a t u r e f o r 5 m i n u t e s . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g and c o o l down t o 60C. Add phase 1 1 1 a t room t e m p e r a t u r e t o t h e p r e m i x e d e m u l s i o n . S t i r homogeneously. A t t e m p e r a t u r e b e l o w 40C add p e r f u m e . A d j u s t pH t o and c o n t r o l v i s c o s i t y . I f n e c e s s a r y f i n a l l y a d j u s t w i t h NaCl and d e - a e r a t e . F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 92/135/49 Pearly Sheen Shower Bath Two-in-One ComDonent: Texapon ASV 70 s p e z . P1a n t a r e n 1 2 0 0 E u p e r l a n PK 3000 OK Lamequat L P a n t h e n o l USP Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e pH-Val ue: 6,5 F o r m u l a t i o n No.: 9 1 / 3 5 2 / 8

12.4 4.0 4.0 4.0 1.0 up t o 100

Pearlescent Foam Bath with Refattener Component: % P l a n t a r e n PS 10 22.0 Dehyton K 15.0 Cosmedia Guar C 261 0.5 C e t i o l HE 2.0 E u p e r l a n PK 3000-OK 5.0 Perfume o i l q.s. Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e up t o 1 0 0 pH-value: 5 , 5 WAS: 18 V i s c o s i t y mPas : a p p r o x . : 45,000 H i n t : K i n d and amount o f p e r f u m e may i n f l u e n c e t h e v i s c o s i t y o f the product. F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 92/184/12

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Model Formulae

66

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulatiom

Shower Bath 2-in-1, Shower & Cream Comoonm Texapon NSO Dehyton K P1a n t a r e n 2000 N u t r i l a n 1-50 Cosmedia Guar C261 Q u e l l u n g / S w e l l i n g E u p e r l a n PK 3000 AM L y t r o n 631 Arlypon F Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e V i s c o s i t y / a p p r o x . (20C B r o o k f ie l d ) : 13000 pH-Val u e / a p p r o x : 5,5 WAS/approx. : 14 Formul a t i on No. : g3/157/6

% 20.0 20.0 5.0 1.0 20.0 5.0 2.0 0.6 UP t o 100

Shower Bath 2-in-1, Shower & Cream Component: Texapon NSO Dehyton K P l a n t a r e n 2000 E u p e r l a n PK 3000 AM Cosmedia Guar C261 Q u e l l u n g / S w e l l i n g C e t i o l HE L y t r o n 631 Arlypon F G l y c e r i n 86% Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e V i s c o s i t y , a p p r o x . (20C B r o o k f ie l d ) : 15000 Formulation No.: 93/157/9

% 20.0 20.0 5.0 3.0 20.2 0.2 1.0 0.6 5.0

up t o 100

Shower Bath & Emulsion Two-in-One Component: I C u t i n a KD 16 Monomuls 90-L 12 C e t i o l 868 I 1 Texapon N 28 Water I 1 1 P l a n t a r e n 1200 Perfume C e t i o l HE I V Dehyton K L y t r o n 621 Preservatives C i t r i c acid t o a d j u s t pH pH: 5-6 V i s c o s i t y 25C mPas: 12500 WAS: 44 F o r m u l a t i o n No. : 2 2 / 8

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Model Formulae

oh 10.0 3.0 3.0 40.0 up t o 100 20.0 0.5 2.0 2.0 2.0

Bath and Shower Products

67

Shower Gel Clear, high-viscosity gel with regreasing effect. Material/CTFA-Index: Genapol LRO/Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e Dehyton A0 3O/Coco-Betaine A e t h o x a l B/PPG-5 L a u r e t h - 5 W a c k e r - B e l s i l DMC 6 0 3 8 / D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l Comperf an KD/Cocami de DEA Water Preservatives, fragrances,

pigments

35.00% 10.00 5.00

5.00 3.00 42 . O O 9,s.

Mix a l l i n g r e d i e n t s w e l l . F o r m u l a t i o n 895 AH

Shower Gel Clear, thin gel. M a t e r i a1 /CTFA- I ndex : Hoe S 3267/Cocarnidopropyl B e t a i n e Wasser d e s t . / W a t e r Texapon NA/Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e B e l s i l DMC 6032/Dirnethicone C o p o l y o l A c e t a t e Ammonium C h l o r i d e Preservatives, fragrances

22.50% 53.50 22.50 1.oo 0.50 q.s.

D i s s o l v e Hoe S 3267 t h o r o u g h l y i n w a t e r . Add Texapon NA and B e l s i l DMC 6032. Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e . R e g u l a t e t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h t h e ammonium c h l o r i d e . Temperature s t a b i l i t y :

a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks.

F o r m u l a t i o n 155 AH

SOURCE:

Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

68

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shower Gel & Body Lotion Component: Texapon NSO Dehyton PK E u p e r l a n PO Comper 1an COO C e t i o l HE Cosmedia Guar C261 Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl

%

40.0 8.0 2.0 1.o 2.0 0.2 up t o 100 2.0

pH-value: 5,5-6,0 V i s c o s i t y mPas B r o o k f i e l d , RVT, 2OC: F o r m u l a t i o n No.: C-FB-308/01a

12800

Pearlescent Foam Bath

ss

P l a n t a r e n PS 10 22.0 Dehyton K 15.0 Cosmedia Guar C 261 0.5 C e t i o l HE 2 .o E u p e r l a n PK 3000-OK 5 .o Perfume o i l q.s. Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e up t o 100 pH-Val ue: 5 , 5 WAS: 18 V i s c o s i t y mPas: a p p r o x : 45,000 H i n t : K i n d and amount o f p e r f u m e may i n f l u e n c e t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h e p r o d u~. ct. Formul a t ion No. : 92/184/12 Foam B a t h C o n c e n t r a t e % Conmponent: 25.0 Texapon K 14 S 70 s p e z . P1 a n t a r e n 2000 20.0 Dehyt.on K 20.0 5.0 C e t i o l HE 2.0 N u t r i l a n 1-50 ~. E u m u l g i n HRE 60 5.0 C i t r i c a c i d ( s o l .50%)% 0.5 Perfume q.s. Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e up t o 100 pH-value: 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y mPas: 5 6 0 0 N o t e : K i n d and amount o f p e r f u m e may i n f l u e n c e t h e v i s c o s i t y of the product. F o r m u l a t i o n No. : 92-174-17

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Model Formulae

Bath and Shower Products

69

Skin Conditioning Shower Gelee Smooth, m o i s t u r i z i n g shower g e l e e . effect. Skin conditioner.

Substantive moisturizing

Ingredients: 1 . Sodi um L a u r e t h - 2 - S u l f a t e 2 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 3 . R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 4 . R i t a w a x 15 ( L a n e t h - 1 5 ) 5. P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l Lactylate) 6 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 7 . Methylparaben 8. Fragrance 9 . Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . ) 1 0 . P a t l a c LA @ 44% ( L a c t i c A c i d )

y!?6&! 53.00 33.65 4.00 3.00 3.00 0.50 0.15 1 .oo 1 .oo 0.70

Function Lather

----

Lather Conditioning Moisture Viscosity Preservative Odor V i scosi t y pH A d j u s t ment

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat i t e m s 1-7 t o 165F w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 120F and add f r a g r a n c e . A d j u s t pH and v i s c o s i t y as d e s i r e d . R e f . No. 118-190 Shebu Shower Gelee A b a t h g e l e e w i t h a smooth u n i q u e f e e l . Innredients: 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (ES-3) 2 . R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 3 . Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l Lactylate) 5. Preservative 6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 7 . Fragrance 8 . R i t a PEO-1 (PEG-5M) 4.

9 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 DS)

%w/w 53.00 4.00 3.00 3.00 0.30 35.85 0.25 0.10

0.50

Function Clean/Lather Lather B o o s te r Moi s t u r i z i n g Moisture/ Mild Preservative

----

Odor S1 ip / T h i c k ener Thickener

ComDoundina P r o c e d u r e : Heat i n g r e d i e n t s 1-6 t o 65C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 43C and add p e r f u m e . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e and pH w i t h l a c t i c acid. R e f . No.

117-538

SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

C o r p . : Shower/Bath Care

70

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Vitamin Bath Oil %w/W 90.0 5.0 5.0

Aethoxal B V i tami n o i 1 B i ocorno Perfume Formula N o .

L67-13

Herbal Bath Oil

%w/w

Aethoxal B Dehydol LS2 DE0 Cetiol A M y r i t o l 318 O i l o f rosemary F o r m u l a No.

52.0 10.0 15.0 20.0 3.0

L67-15

Bath Oil Dehydol LS2 D E 0 Cetiol R Cetiol A C e t i o l 868 Perfume o i l

10.0 30.0 15.0 40.0 5.0

F o r m u l a No. L67-18

Lavender Bath Oil

w

Lavender o i l Lamaci t GML20 Water

37.0 46.0 17.0

P r e p a r a t i o n : M i x l a v e n d e r o i l and L a m a c i t GML-20. slowly. F o r m u l a No. L67-21

Add w a t e r

Lemon Balm Bath Oil Lemon b a l m o i l L a m a c i t GML 20 Water F o r m u l a N o . L67-22

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model Formulae

%w/w 24.4 56.9 18.7

Section IV Beauty Aids

71

72

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Ajinomoto Moisturizing Foundation with Ajidew, Eldew, Marine-Dew and Amihope I n a r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: Part A: D e i o n i z e d Water Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e C e l l u l ose Gum T r i s o d i um EDTA Sodium PCA/Ajidew N-50 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 85%

% by Weight

61.15 0 70 0.15 0.10 1-00 0.60 I

Part 8: Methylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben Stearic Acid P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l S t e a r a t e SE P o l y s o r b a t e 60 Cetearyl Octanoate Cetyl Alcohol Sorbitan Stearate Dimethicone/Dow C o r n i n g 200 ( 3 5 0 c s ) D i ( c h o l s t e r y l , behenyl , o c t y l dodecyl ) N - l a u r o y l - L - g l u t a m a t i c a c i d e s t e r / E l d e w CL-301 Phenoxyethanol

0.30 2.50 2.00 1.70 6.00 2.00 0.60 0.50 5.00 0.60

Part C: Propylene Glycol I r o n O x i d e s and T a l c T i t a n i um Dioxide L a u r o y l L y s i ne/Ami hope-LL

6.00 2.00 5.00 0.10

P a r t D: P a r t i a l l y D e a c e t y l a t e d C h i t i n (1% S o l u t i o n ) / M a r i n e - D e w

2 * 00

Procedure: D i s p e r s e Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e and C e l l u l o s e Gum i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . Heat t o 8 0 d e g r e e s C . Add r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x w e l l . Heat P a r t 8 t o 80 d e g r e e s C . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x a t 80 d e g r e e s C f o r 15 m i n u t e s . Homogenize P a r t C . Add t o t h e b a t c h . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 40 d e g r e e s C . Add P a r t D . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 35 d e g r e e s C . Appearance: B e i g e cream pH: 7 . 4 0 t o 8 . 0 0 V i s c o s i t y : 20,000-25,000

c p s (RVT #6 @ 10 rpm @ 25C)

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beau@ Aids

73

Alcohol-Free Cologne This sprayable product is light, elegant and will not dry or sting the skin. Inaredi ent (CTFA) Part A : Deionized Water DMDM Hydantoin ( 1 ) Methylparaben Propylparaben

Wei aht% 92.88 0.30 0.10 0.05

Function Di 1 uent Preservative Preservat i ve Preservative

Part B: Cyclomethicone (2) Pemulen TR-2

4.00 0.15

Part C: Fragrance, Novi 1 1 e #31563 Oleth-10 (3)

0.30

P.S. Reduction

Part D : Triethanolamine (99%)

0.12

Neutralizing Agent

Part E: Di sodi u m EDTA

0.10

Chelating Agent and Viscosity Adjustment

Lubricant Emulsifier/ Stabi 1 i zer

2.00

Preparation: 1 . Combine Part A ingredients in a vessel which will contain the entire formulation. Mix until parabens have dissolved. 2. Slurry Pemulen in cyclomethicone. Disrupt any soft agglomerates o f Pemulen. With moderate agitation, add Part B to Part A. 3. Blend Part C ingredients and add to Parts A/B. Continue mixing for 10-20 minutes to allow resin to swell. Add Part D and mix vigorously to produce a smooth emulsion. 4. Mix Part E into emulsion incrementally to adjust viscosity down to 600-800 cps. SOURCE: BF Goodrich

Co.: Formula PO007

74

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Alcohol-Free Cologne This sprayable product i s l i g h t , the skin. I n s r e d i e n t (CTFA): Part A: D e i o n i z e d Water DMDM H y d a n t o i n ( 1 ) Methylparaben ( 2 ) Propylparaben ( 2 )

e l e g a n t and w i l l n o t s t i n g Wei a h t % 92-38 0.30 0.10 0.05

P a r t B: C y c l o m e t h i c o n e (3) F r a g r a n c e , N o v i l l e #31337 I s o s t e a r y l Benzoate ( 4 ) Oleth-10 ( 5 ) Pemulen T R - 2

4.00 2.00 0.50 0.30 0.15

(6)

F u n c t ion D i 1u e n t Preservative Preservative Preservative Lubricant Fragrance F i x e r P a r t ic l e S i ze Reduction Emulsifier/ S t a b i 1i z e r

Part C: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

0.12

N e u t r a l iz i n g Agent

P a r t D: D i s o d i um EDTA

0.10

C h e l a t i n g Agent

(1) (2) (3) (4)

G l y d a n t (LonzB) (Protameen C h e m i c a l s ) 245 F l u i d (Dow C o r n i n g ) F i n s o l v SB ( F i n e t e x ) (5) P r o c o l OA-10 (Protameen C h e m i c a l s ) , B r i j 96 ( I C I ) ( 6 ) A c r y l a t e s / C l O - 3 0 A l k y l A c r y l a t e C r o s s p o l y m e r (BFGoodrich) Preparation : 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e f o r m u l a t i o n . M i x u n t i l parabens have d i s s o l v e d . 2 . B l e n d P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . Pemulen s h o u l d be s l u r r i e d i n t h i s phase. D i s r u p t any s o f t a g g l o m e r a t e s o f the resin. 3 . W i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B o P a r t A . M i x f o r 10-20 m i n u t e s t o a l l o w r e s i n t o s w e l l . Add P a r t C and m i x v i g o r o u s l y t o p r o d u c e a smooth e m u l s i o n . 4 . Mix P a r t D i n t o emulsion incremental y t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y downward t o 600-900 c p s .

SOURCE: BF G o o d r i c h Co.:

Formula PO013

BeautyAids

75

All-Over AHA Moisturizer #29-0805-A An a l l - o v e r f a c e and body l o t i o n u s i n g n a t u r a l a l p h a h y d r o x y a c i d s f r o m f r u i t s t o g e n t l y e x f o l i a t e and r e t e x t u r i z e t h e s k i n f o r smoother, y o u n g e r - l o o k i n g s k i n . To h e l p c o u n t e r a c t t h e d r y n e s s t h a t may r e s u l t f r o m s k i n s t i m u l a t i o n , A j i d e w N-50 i s a d d e d , t o n o r m a l i z e t h e s k i n ' s o u t e r l a y e r a n d p r o v i d e optimum moi s t u r i z a t io n . Ingred-i ent/T_rade N-am; P a r t A: D e i o n i z e d Water Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e / V e e g u m U l t r a Xanthan Gum/Kel t r o l D i s o d i u m EDTA/Hamp-Ene Na2 Methylparaben P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Glycerin S o d i u m L a c t a t e ( a n d ) Sodium PCA ( a n d ) S o r b i t o l ( a n d ) P r o l i n e / P r o d e w 300 Part B: S t e a r i c Acid/Emersol 132 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e / A r l a c e l G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e / L e x e m u l 55G D i o c t y l M a l e a t e / B e r n e l E s t e r COM C12-15 A l k y l B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v T N Dimethicone/Dow C o r n i n o 2 0 0 , 350 c s . C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 76 Propylparaben Part C: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99%

..Q"

b-wsmt. 66.45 1

.oo

0.30 0.05 0.20 3.00 2.00 3.00 1.oo

165

1 .oo 3.00 5.00 4.00 0.20 2.00 0.10 0.40

P a r t D: D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea/Germal

I1

Lemon P a s s i o n F r u i t Comp ex P r o v i t a l Procedure: D i s p e r s e Veegum 75C. Add r e m a i n i n g P a r t B t o 75C. Add a t i o n . Add P a r t C . e o u s . Cool t o 40C.

0.30 5.00

U 1 t r a and K e l t r o l i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . H e a t t o i n g r e d i e n t s . Mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat Part P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h good a g i t M i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y homogenAdd P a r t D . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o

35c. Appearance: Opaque, w h i t e 1o t i on pH: 3 . 4 0 - 3 . 8 0 V i s c o s i t y : 4 , 0 0 0 - 9 , 0 0 0 (RVT #5 I3 10 rpm I3 25C) NOTE: May i n f r i n g e on an e x i s t i n g p a t e n t . P l e a s e c o n s u l t y o u r 1egal a d v i s o r ,

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA I n c : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n #29-0805-A

76

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

All-Over AHA Moisturizer An a l l - o v e r f a c e and body l o t i o n u s i n g n a t u r a l a l p h a h y d r o x y a c i d s f r o m f r u i t s t o g e n t l y e x f o l i a t e and r e t e x t u r i z e t h e s k i n f o r smoother, y o u n g e r - l o o k i n g s k i n . To h e l p c o u n t e r a c t t h e d r y n e s s t h a t may r e s u l t f r o m s k i n s t i m u l a t i o n , A j i d e w N-50 i s added t o n o r m a l i z e t h e s k i n ' s o u t e r l a y e r and p r o v i d e optimum moi s t u r i z a t i o n . % bv W e i a h t

I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: D e i o n i z e d Water Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e / V e e g u m U l t r a Xanthan G u m / K e l t r o l D i s o d i um EDTA/Hamp-Ene Na2 Methylparaben P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Glycerin Sodium PCA/Ajidew N-50

66.55 1 .oo 0.30 0.05 0.20 3.00 2.00 5.00

P a r t B: S t e a r i c A c i d/Emersol 132 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e / A r l a c e l D i o c t y l M a l e a t e / B e r n e l E s t e r COM C12-15 A l k y l B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v TN Dimethicone/Dow C o r n i n g 200, 350 c s . C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 16 Propylparaben

165

1.oo 4.00 5.00 4.00 0.20 2.00 0.10

P a r t C: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99%

0.30

P a r t D: D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germall I1 Lemon P a s s i o n F r u i t Complex P r o v i t a l

0.30 5.00

Procedure: D i s p e r s e Veegum 75C. Add r e m a i n i n g P a r t B t o 75C. Add a t i o n . Add P a r t C . eous. Cool t o 40C. 35c.

U l t r a and K e l t r o l i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . Heat t o P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . Mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h good a g i t M i x f o t 30 m i n u t e s u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y homogenAdd P a r t D . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o

Appearance: Opaque, w h i t e l o t i o n pH: 3.60-4.20 V i s c o s i t y : 12,000-15,000 cps (RVT #5 (3 10 r p m (3 25C) NOTE: May i n f r i n g e on an e x i s t i n g p a t e n t . 1e g a l a d v i s o r . SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA,

Please c o n s u l t your

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n #29-0707-6

Beauty Aids

77

Cheek Rouge

Wt% A.

15.0 15.0 10.0 2.0

Amihope LL N y l o n Powder Titanium Dioxide A1 umi num O x i d e Pigment Talc

q.s the rest

2.0

8. D i m e t h y l p o l y s i l o x a n e Procedure: 1 . M i x ( A ) w i t h a speed m i x e r 2 . Add (B) t o ( A ) , and m i x . 3 . S i e v e them, and p r e s s . Note : T h i s cheek r o u g e has smooth t o u c h and p r o p e r a d h e s i o n . Eye Shadow

W B

A.

5.0 0.0 5.0

Sericite Mica N y l o n Powder Amihope L L Titanium Dioxide P e a r l Pigment Pigments Talc

10.0 7.0 q.s. q.s. the rest

2.0

B. I s o s t e a r i c A c i d Procedure: 1 . M i x ( A ) w i t h a speed m i x e r . 2 . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) , and m i x . 3 . S i e v e them, and p r e s s . Note: T h i s eye shadow h a s smooth t o u c h and p r o p e r a d h e s i o n .

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA,

I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

78

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cleansing Emulsion O/W Liquid

%w/w 8.0

I

Cutina MD Eumulgin B1 Eumulgin 82 Eutanol G Paraffin oi 1 , high viscous I I Water Formula No. 821-01 Cleansing Emulsion O/W

1.5

1.5 10.0 20.0 59.0 Liquid o

I

Cutina MD Lanette 0 Eumulgin B1 Eumulgin 82 Rilanit GMO Cetiol SN Paraffin oil, high viscous I 1 Water Formula No. 821-02

m

4.0 2.0 1.5 1.5 1 .o 10.0 25.0 55.0

Cleansing Emulsion O/W Liquid

%WB 2.0

I

Lanette 16 Si egert Stearin L2SM Eumulgin B1 Eumulgin 82 Cetiol V Cetiol S I I T r i ethanol ami ne Water Formula No. 621-03

3.0

1.5 1.5 5.0

15.0 0.2 71 . 8 Cleansing Emulsion

%W/w Lamecreme LPM 10.0 Paraffin oil 2.0 3.0 Cegesoft C24 Eutanol G 3.0 Lanette 16 1.0 Wool fat 1 .o I1 Lamepon S-TR 3.0 1,2-propylene glycol 5.0 Water 71.7 1 1 1 Perfume 0.3 Preparation: Phase I is brought to 70C and the aqueous phase, also at 70C, is added slowly, stirring thoroughly. May be perfumed after stir cooling to 40C. Formula No. 821-04

I

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

Beauty Aids

79

Compact Powder Material/CTFA-Index: A: T a l c Magnesi urn S t e a r a t e Carbopol 1342/Carbomer

1342

8 : W a c k e r - B e l s i l CM 0 4 0 / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e N u t r i l a n L / H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n

74.00% 6.00 3.00 12.00 2.00 0.20 1.90 0. 70

C : M e t h y l paraben Talc Pigments

P r e s e r v a t i v e , F r a g r a n c e s , Pigments q.s. M i x A , add B s l o w l y , add C and t h e n m i x D i n t o ABC hornogeneousl y . F o r m u l a t i o n 635 AH Compact Powder M a t e r ia1 /CTFA-I ndex : A. Talc Kaol i n T i t a n i urn D i o x i d e C a l c i urn C a r b o n a t e Magnesium S t e a r a t e B e l s i l BNP/Boron N i t r i d e Zinc Stearate B:

Isopropyl Myristate Oleyl Oleate

25.00% 25.00 5.00 10.00 5.00 10.00 12.50 3.50 4.00

F r a g r a n c e s , p i gments q.s. M i x A w e l l , h e a t B and add i t i n p o r t i o n s , homogenize t h o r oughly. F o r m u l a t i o n 1057 AH Nail Varnish Remover A gentle nail varnish remover with added nourishing i ngredi ents I

Material/CTFA-Index: Acetone Water W a c k e r - B e l s i l DMC 6035/Methicone C o p o l y o l A c e t a t e Ethyl Acetate D i i s o p r o p y l Adi p a t e M i x a1 1 t h e in g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r . F o r m u l a t i o n 987 A H

SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

50.00% 11 . o o 3.00 35 .oo 0.50

80

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioning Skin Moisturizer This lotion moisturizes and softens the skin without leaving a greasy, heavy feel. Ingredient: Part A: Dei o n i zed Water Pemulen TR-1 ( 1 ) Glycerin M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben P a r t B: White Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate D i m e t h i cone T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) Part C: D i s t e a r y l d i m o n i um c h l o r i d e ( 2 ) D e i o n i z e d Water P a r t D: Fragrance Color

Wei a h t % 71 - 0 0 0.40

2.00 0.10 0.10 1.oo 2.50 2.50

0.30

0.10 20.00

Function D i 1u e n t Emu 1 s i f ie r / S t a b i 1 iz e r Humectant Preservative Preservative Moisture Barrier Em011 ie n t Lubricant N e u t r a l iz i ng Agent Conditioner D i 1u e n t

g.s.

9,s.

( 1 ) Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich) ( 2 ) A r o s u r f TA-100 ( S h e r e x C h e m i c a l ) Preparation: 1 . Combine d e i o n i z e d w a t e r , g l y c e r i n , and p a r a b e n s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e f o r m u l a t i o n . N o t e : Parabens may b e p r e d i s p e r s e d i n g l y c e r i n t o f a c i l i t a t e d i s s o l u t i o n . 2 . D i s p e r s e t h e Pemulen i n t o t h e w a t e r m i x t u r e w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . A l l o w t h e s o l u t i o n t o m i x f o r a p p r o x i m a t e l y 30 m i n u t e s . H e a t t o 70C. 3. Combine P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 70C w i t h m i x i n g . 4 . W i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x f o r 15-20 minutes. 5 . Combine P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s and add t o t h e e m u l s i o n w i t h continued mixing u n t i l cool.

SOURCE: BFGoodrich Co.: F o r m u l a PO023

BeautyAids

81

Cover Cream M a t e r i a1 /CTFA-Index: A : C a n d e l i l l a Wax B e l s i l SDM 6 0 2 2 / D i m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) S t e a r o x y D i m e t h y l s i l a n e (and) Stearoxy D i m e t h y l d i s i loxane Stearic Acid

5.50% 6.70 3.00

B : Water P r o p y l ene G 1 y c o l Triethanolamine

45.80 3,40 1 .30

C: B e l s i l BNP/Boron N i t r i d e T i t a n i um D i o x i d e Pigments

10.00 4.00 2.00

D: B e l s i l CM 0 4 0 / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e

18.30

Preservatives, fragrances

q.5

H e a t A and B each t o 7 0 C . Add B t o A . M i x C t o AB homogene o u s l y . C o o l t o a p p r o x . 30C and add D. T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 781 AH Foundation Cream Mat e r i a 1/ CT FA.- I n d ex : A : Lamecreme KSM/Glyceryl S t e a r a t e s e Olive O i l B e l s i l BNP/Boron N i t r i d e B: G l y c e r i n e Water B e l s i 1 PDM 2 O / P h e n y l d i m e t h i c o n e B e l s i 1 CM 0 2 0 / C y c l a m e t h i cone Preservatives, fragrances,

pigments

20.00% 4.00 3.00

4.00 67.50 1.oo 0.50

q.s.

H e a t A t o 70C, m i x B and h e a t t o 65C. Add 6 i n t o A w i t h h i g h agitation. Temperature s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 7 8 0 AH

SOURCE:

Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

82

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cream Eye Shadow Ingredients: A: T a l c V a n c l ay , Kaol in I r o n Oxides T i t a n i um D i o x i d e B: S t e a r i c Acid G1 y c e r y l S t e a r a t e L a n o l in Sesame O i l Olive O i l Isopropyl Myristate C:

C e l l u l o s e Gum (CMC 7LF) D i s t i l l e d Water

D : Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e D i s t i l l e d Water E : Propylene Glycol T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% Darvan No. 1 , Sodium P o l y n a p h t a l e n e S u l f o n a t e D i s t i l l e d Water F:

Preservative,

Fragrance

W t .%* 18.00 2.00 4.50 5.50 0.80 2.00 4.00 2.00 1.oo 3.00 0.10 9.90 1.75 33.75

5.00 0.40

0.30 6.00 q.5.

Procedure: M i c r o p u l v e r i z e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A . Heat P a r t B t o 70C. P r e p a r e c e l l u l o s e gum s o l u t i o n u s i n g t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s . P r e p a r e a Veegum d i s p e r s i o n u s i n g t h e P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s . Combine P a r t s C and D. Add t h e combined P a r t E i n g r e d i e n t s and add t o P a r t s C t D . Add P a r t A p i g m e n t s t o w a t e r phase and homogenize. Heat t o 6DC and m a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e f o r 10 m i n u t e s Add o i l phase t o w a t e r phase and m i x u n t i l t e m p e r a t u r e c o o l s t o 45C. Add F when c o o l . *As received basis

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Veegum i n C o l o r C o s m e t i c s : F o r m u l a f r o m A q u a l o n Co.

Beauty Aids

83

Cream Foundation A

D e i o n i z e d Water P e c o s i l WDS-100 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l P h o s p h a t e ) Propylene Glycol Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e Xanthan Gum

B

Titanium Dioxide Talc I r o n Oxide ( y e l l o w ) (red) ( b l ac k )

7.16 1 .05 1.21 0.42 0.16

C

P e l e m o l GS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) Meadowfoam Seed O i l P e l e m o l OPG ( O c t y l P e l a r g o n a t e ) Macademia N u t O i l Cetearyl Alcohol Pelemol OP ( O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ) Dimethicone (5000 c s )

8.00 5.00 5.00 2.00 2.00 5.00 0.50

D

Triethanolamine

0.50

E

Propylene G l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben

(99%)

Urea ( a n d )

52.00% 3.00 5.00 0.75 0.25

1.oo

Procedure: 1 . P r e w e t Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e and Xanthan Gum w i t h t h e P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l . 2 . Homogenize t h i s s l u r r y i n t o phase w a t e r , and when u n i f o r m , homogenize phase B i n t o phase A . 3 . When AB i s u n i f o r m , s w i t c h t o sweep a g i t a t i o n and add P e c o s i l WDS-100. 4 . W i t h c o n t i n u e d sweep a g i t a t i o n , h e a t A B t o 70-75C. 5 . Heat phase C t o 70-75C w i t h sweep a g i t a t i o n . 6 . Homogenize phase C t o AB. 7 . When ABC i s u n i f o r m , s w i t c h t o sweep a g i t a t i o n and add phase D t o A B C . 8 . Cool t o 45C under sweep a g i t a t i o n and t h e n add phase E . 9 . C o n t i n u e sweep a g i t a t i o n w h i l e c o o l i ng t o 3 5 C .

SOURCE:

Phoenix C h e m i c a l ,

I n c . : Formula 14-106-8

84

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cream Lotion O/W with Ginseng Root Extract

s/ow/w I

C u t i n a CBS C u t i n a E24 E u m u l g i n 82 C e t i o l SN Eutanol G Cremogen G i n s e n g r o o t

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water

8.0 1.5 1.5 8.0 4.0 1.o

5.0 71 . O

F o r m u l a A22-06 Skin Emulsion O/W Low Viscous with Avocado Oil

o/,w/w I

C u t i n a CBS E u m u l g i n B1 E u m u l g i n 82 Cetiol V Avocado o i l

8.0 1.5 1.5 5.0 3.0 81 . O

I 1 Water F o r m u l a No. A22-07 Moisturizing Emulsion O/W

o/,w/w I

C u t i n a MD E u m u l g i n 81 E u m u l g i n 82 Eutanol G M y r i t o l 318 Paraffin o i l ,

high viscous

I 1 H y g r o p l e x HHG 1 , 2 - p r o p y l ene g l y c o l Water F o r m u l a No. A23-01

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

8.0 1.5 1.5 10.0 5.0 4.0 5.0 7.0 58.0

Beauty Aids

85

Creamy Eye Shadow D e i o n i zed Water P e c o s i l PS-100 (Dimethicone Copolyol Phosphate) P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e Xanthan Gum

51 . 9 4 % 3.00 5.00 0.75 0.25

Titanium Dioxide Talc I r o n Oxides

7.15 1.05 1 .86

Pelemol GS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) Meadowfoam Seed O i l Pelemol OPG ( O c t y l P e l a r g o n a t e ) Macademia N u t O i l Cetearyl Alcohol Pelemol OP ( O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ) S i l t e c h F-500 ( D i m e t h i c o n e , 500 c s )

8.00 5.00 5.00 2.00 2.00 5.00 0.50

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

0.50

P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( a n d ) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben

1.oo

Procedure: 1 . Prewet Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e and Xanthan Gum w i t h t h e P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l . 2 . Homogenize t h i s s l u r r y i n t o phase A w a t e r , and when u n i f o r m , homogenize phase B i n t o phase A 3 . When A B i s u n i f o r m , s w i t c h t o sweep a g i t a t i o n and add P e c o s i l WDS-100. 4 . W i t h c o n t i n u e d sweep a g i t a t i o n , h e a t AB t o 70-75C. 5 . Heat phase C t o 70-75C w i t h sweep a g i t a t i o n . 6 . Homogenize phase C t o @ . 7 . When AB_C i s u n i f o r m , s w i t c h t o sweep a g i t a t i o n 8 . Cool t o 45C u n d e r sweep a g i t a t i o n and add phase D t o @C, and t h e n add phase E . 9 . C o n t i n u e sweep a g i t a t i o n w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 35c.

SOURCE: P h o e n i x C h e m i c a l ,

I n c . : F o r m u l a 14-108-D

86

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Creamy Lotion Moisturizer A creamy, n o n - g r e a s y l o t i o n w i t h a q u i c k d r y i n g c o o l i n g s e n s a t i o n . Leaves s k i n f e e l i n g s o f t , smooth and m o i s t u r i z e d .

M e t h y l Paraben 0.25 0.50 Carbomer 941 ( G o o d r i c h , C a r b o p o l 941) Water 65.40 8. I s o p r o p y l L a n o l a t e ( A m e r c h o l , A m e r l a t e P) 2.50 S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) Ceteareth-20 (Amerchol, 3.50 Promulgen G) M i n k O i l (Emulan, L i g h t F r a c t i o n ) 5.50 M y r i s t y l M y r i s t a t e (Van Dyk, C e r a p h y l 424) 1.50 0.15 P r o p y l Paraben 0.50 C . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) E t h a n o l (SD 40 A l c o h o l , 95%) 20.00 0.20 Perfume Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l i n w a t e r , add m e t h y l paraben, t h e n h e a t Phase A t o 75C. 2. Add 7 5 C Phase B t o 7 5 C Phase A v i a p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Cool t o 45C and add Phase C .

A.

Moisture Balm An a n a l g e s i c , n o n - i r r i t a t i ng, s o o t h i n g , mot s t u r i z i ng s k i n balm. Unique f o r m u l a combining L i p o p r o t e i n , Yeast E x t r a c t and M i n k O i l w i t h Homomenthyl S a l i c y l a t e f o r s u p e r i o r s k i n benefits.

Wt.%

A.

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Amerchol, P r o p a l ) 5.0 5.0 M i n k O i l (Emulan, L i g h t F r a c t i o n ) Homomenthyl S a l i c y l a t e 5.0 PEG-6 S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) C e t e t h - 2 0 ( G a t t e f o s s e , T e f o s e 2561) 7.5 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) D i m e t h i c o n e Copolymer (Dow C o r n i n g , Q2-3225C) 4.0 8. Water 63.6 C . H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n 1.o P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (and) Yeast E x t r a c t 2.7 ( G a t t e f o s s e , V e g e t o l LP) 5.0 PEG-8 (UCC, Carbowax 400) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n , Germaben 1 1 ) 1.0 Fragrance 0.2 Procedure: Add 70C Phase B t o 65C Phase A v i a h i g h s h e a r p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n . S t i r c o o l t o 35C. Add room t e m p e r a t u r e Phase C .

SOURCE: Emulan, I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

87

Creamy Mascara Creamy s o f t . M a t e r i a1 /CTFA-Index : A : B e l s i 1 DM 3 5 0 / D i m e t h i cone B e l s i l CM 0 2 5 / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e C e t y l A 1 coho1 Stearic Acid Vaseline/Petrolatum Mineral O i l

2.00% 3.00 2.00 9.90 5.50 4.10 3.10 61 . 3 0 9.10 q.s.

8: Triethanolamine

Wasser d e s t . / W a t e r Pigmente/(Colour) P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume

M i x A and h e a t t o 60C, s t i r i n B . Add t h e p i g m e n t s and w o r k i n u n t i l a homogeneous m i x t u r e i s f o r m e d . T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 195 AH Mascara F i r m cream. M-at e r i a 1 / CT FA- I nd e x 1 A: B e l s i l DM 35O/Dimethicone B e l s i l PDM 2 0 0 / P h e n y l d i m e t h i c o n e Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Vase1 i n e / P e t r o l atum M i neral Oi 1, high viscosity Water

10.00 q.s.

C : P i gment e / ( Col o u r ) P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume

add B w h i l s t s t i r r i n g q u i c k l y . Work i n C

Temperature s a b i l i t y :

a t 45C 8 weeks.

F o r m u l a t i o n 2 1 AH

SOURCE:

4.00 5.00 19.80 5 . 50 4.10 6.20 43.40

B : Triethanolamine

H e a t A t o 60C homogeneous1 y .

2 . 00%

Wacker S l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

88

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Depilatory Cream O/W I

L a n e t t e N/SX

%w/w 6.0

I1

Urea Water

4.0 74.5

I 1 1 G e l w h i t e USP

T h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d 80% L i t h i um h y d r o x i de

5.0 6.0 4.5

N o t e : I n a c c o r d a n c e w i t h t h e German c o s m e t i c s l e g i s l a t i o n , d e p i l a t o r y creams may c o n t a i n a maximum o f 5% t h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d and t h e pH must b e t12.65. The pH o f t h i s cream i s a p p r o x .

12. P r e p a r a t i o n : T h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d and l i t h i u m h y d r o x i d e a r e d i s s o l v e d o r suspended i n 20 p a r t s w a t e r . G e l w h i t e i s s w e l l e d i n 20 p a r t s c o l d w a t e r . W i t h t h e r e s t o f t h e w a t e r , i n w h i c h t h e u r e a has been d i s s o l v e d , a cream i s p r o d u c e d w i t h L a n e t t e N / S X . A f t e r t h e cream has c o m p l e t e l y c o o l e d down, t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t m i x t u r e and t h e g e l w h i t e s o l u t i o n a r e added. Formula N o . Gll-01 Depilatory Emulsion O/W, High Viscous I Lanette N

E u m u l g i n 63 I 1 T h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d 80%

Lithium hydroxide Urea Me1 ami n e Water

%w/w 4.0 2.0 6.0 4.5 4.0 2.0 77.5

P r e p a r a t i o n : T h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d , l i t h i u m h y d r o x i d e and melamine a r e d i s s o l v e d o r suspended i n h a l f t h e w a t e r . W i t h t h e r e s t o f t h e w a t e r , i n w h i c h t h e u r e a has been d i s s o l v e d e a r l i e r , a cream o r e m u l s i o n i s p r o d u c e d w i t h t h e f a t t y s u b s t a n c e s . A f t e r t h e cream has c o o l e d down c o m p l e t e l y , t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t m i x t u r e i s added t o t h e cream and t h e n perfumed. N o t e : I n a c c o r d a n c e w i t h t h e German c o s m e t i c s l e g i s l a t i o n , d e p i l a t o r y creams may c o n t a i n a maximum o f 5% t h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d and t h e pH must b e t12.65. The pH o f t h i s e m u l s i o n i s a p p r o x . 12 Formula N o . G21-01

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

BeautyAids

Eyeliner

%w/w C u t i n a MD E u m u l g i n B1 Eutanol G M y r i t o l 318 Pigment c o l o r s

3.0 1.o 3.0 3.0 10.0

L u v i s k o l K30 E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Veegum s o l u t i o n 6% Water

8.0 5.0 3.0 20.0 44.0

P r e p a r a t i o n : An o / w - t y p e e m u l s i o n i s p r o d u c e d i n t h e u s u a l way w i t h t h e f a t t y s u b s t a n c e s and h a l f t h e w a t e r . L u v i s k o l K30 i s d i s s o l v e d i n t h e m i x t u r e o f a l c o h o l and t h e r e s t o f t h e w a t e r and t h e p i g m e n t s a r e added t o t h i s s o l u t i o n . H a v i n g c o o l e d down, t h e e m u l s i o n i s added g r a d u a l l y t o t h e L u v i s k o l p i g m e n t m i x t u r e and t h e n t h e Veegum s o l u t i o n i s s t i r r e d i n . The f i n i s h e d e m u l s i o n s h o u l d be homogenized m e c h a n i c a l l y . F o r m u l a No. P24-01 Make-up Stick Parts 84.0 16.0 15.0

C u t i n a LM Eutanol G Pigment c o l o r s F o r m u l a No. P41-01 Powder Stick

Parts 50.0 10.0 40.0

C u t i n a LM Eutanol G Pigment c o l o r s F o r m u l a No. 41-02 Cover-up Stick C u t i n a LM Pigment c o l o r s F o r m u l a No. 41-03

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

Parts 70.0 30.0

89

90

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Eye Make-up Remover, Liquid

W

C e t i o l SN Eutanol G P a r a f f i n o i l , h i g h viscous Formula N o . B32-01

N

60.0 30.0 10.0

Eye Make-up Remover in Gel Form

y$u!

C e t i o l SN Paraffin o i l , high viscous A e r o s i l 200 F o r m u l a N o . 832-02

63.0 30.0 7.0

Make-up Remover, S u r f a c t a n t Based %W/w

Dehyton G C e t i o l HE C i t r i c acid Water F o r m u l a N o . 532-03

20.0 25.0 0.3 54.7

Make-up Remover, Anhydrous %Wl.W 10.0 15.0 35.0 10.0 5.0 25.0

L a n e t t e 16 C u t i n a BW Vaseline, white Wool f a t , a n h y d r o u s Hard p a r a f f i n Cetiol V F o r m u l a No. 532-04

Eye Make-up Removing Stick

%W&

C u t i n a LM P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous Vase1 i ne, w h i t e F o r m u l a No. 5 4 1 - 0 1

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA:

Cosmetic Model

80.0 10.0 10.0

Formulae

BeautyAids

Eye Shadow Stick C u t i n a LM Eutanol G Pigment c o l o r s T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t e r MP 115 Cosmetic t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e 3 0 0 309 Formula N o .

Parts 72.0 20.0 3.0 15.0 0.5

P44-01 Eyeliner Pencil Parts 85.0 5.0 10.0

C u t i n a LM O z o k e r i t e 70-72C Pigment c o l o r Formula No.

P44-02 Eyebrow Pencil

C u t i n a LM O z o k e r i t e 70-72C Pigment c o l o r

Parts 78.0 12.0 10.0

Formula No. P44-03 Make-up Cream with Pearly Gloss, O/W

%w/w I

I1

C u t i n a MD S i eger S t e a r i n L2 SM Cet io l V P a r a f f n o i 1, h i g h viscous Wool f a t , a n h y d r o u s Pigment c o l o r s

5.0 10.0 2.0 8.0

1,2-propylene g l y c o l Triethanolamine Veegum s o l u t i o n 4% Water

5.0 0.5 30.0 26.5

1 1 1 T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t e r MP 115 Formula Pl l -04

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

2.0

I .o

10.0

91

92

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Eye Shadow Sericite Mica N y l o n Powder Amihope LL Titanium Dioxide P e a r l Pigment Pigments the Talc B. I s o s t e a r i c Acid Procedure: 1 . M i x ( A ) w i t h a speed m i x e r . 2 . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) , and m i x . 3 . S i e v e them, and p r e s s . Note: T h i s eye shadow has smooth t o u c h and p r o p e r a d h e s i o n

A.

15.0% 10.0 15.0 10.0

7.0 q.s. q.s. rest 2.0

Face Powder with Amihope LL A. Talc q . s . t o 100% Lauroyl Lysine* 5%-30% Magnesi um S t e a r a t e 2 * 5% Propylparaben 0.05% B u t y l paraben 0 05% Pigments ( T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e , I r o n O x i d e s , U l t r a m a r i n e s , q.s. etc. ) B . Captex 3 0 0 * * 1 .O% Fragrance 9,s. Charge a l l phase A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a p p r o p r i a t e b l e n d e r and m i x . Combine phase B l i q u i d s and s p r a y o r add t o b l e n d i n g phase A . A f t e r m i x i n g i s c o m p l e t e , p u l v e r i z e w e l l . V e r y smooth f e e l w i t h good s k i n a d h e s i o n . *Amihope L L ( A j i n o m o t 0 U S A , I n c . ) **Capric/Capryl i c T r i glycerides(Capit a l C i t y Products) I

Powder Foundation A. Talc Sericit e Mica Magnesi um S t e a r a t e Titanium Dioxide Amihope LL Pigments 0 . 2 - O c t y l dodecanol Dimethylpolysiloxane Procedure: 1 . Add ( A ) w i t h speed m i x e r . 2 . Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) . 3 . S i e v e them, and p r e s s . Note: T h i s powder f o u n d a t i o n has l i g h t t o u c h

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

36.9

30.0 10.0 1 .o 5.0 5.0 2.1 4.0 6.0

Beauty Aids

93

Eve Shadow Cream O/W

%w/w I

I1

S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2 SM C u t i n a MD-A Eumulgin B1 L a n e t t e 16 Eutanol G Isopropyl myri s t a t e Col o r a n t s : P i gment c o l o r s Cosmetic t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e 300 309 Triethanolamine l,2-propylene glycol Water

I 1 1 T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t e r MP 115 Formula No. P14-01

Eve Shadow Cream O/W I

I1

L a n e t t e 16 S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2 SM Eumulgin 81 Lanette E Isopropyl palmitate P i gment c o l o r s Cosmetic t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e 300 309 Talc Titanium dioxide Kaol i n L u v i s k o l K30 Veegum s o l u t i o n 4% Water

I 1 1 T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t e r MP 115

4.0 4.0

1.o

2.0 2.0 4.0 1.4 3.6 1.o 5.0 67 . O 5.0

%w/w

1.o 1 .o 0.5 0.2 5.0 0.7 1. a 6.0 1.a 0.6

3.0 40.0 29.7

10.0

P r e p a r a t i o n : Phase I i s m e l t e d , t h e p i g m e n t c o l o r s and powders a r e added and t h e mass i s p r o c e s s e d t h r o u g h a c o l l o i d o r r o l l e r m i l l . The p i g r n e n t / f a t mass i s t h e n h e a t e d t o a p p r o x . 80C and t h e w a t e r , i n w h i c h t h e L u v i s k o l K30 has been d i s s o l v e d , s t i r r e d i n a t t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e . The e m u l s i o n i s s t i r c o o l e d and t h e Veegum s o l u t i o n i s added a t 40C. Phase 111 i s added under 30C. Formula No. P14-02

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA:

Cosmetic Model Formulae

94

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Face Cleanser, Clear, Liquid

%w/w Texapon ASV Water

30.0 70.0

N o t e : WAS 9% Formula No. L69-01 Face Cleanser, Clear, Liquid

%w/w Texapon ASV Dehyton AB 30 Sodium c h l o r i d e Water

30.0 10.0 3.0 57.0

N o t e : WAS 12% F o r m u l a No. L69-02 Face Cleanser

%w/w Texapon ASV C e t i o l HE V i s c o n t r a n HEC 30 000 PR-2% s o l u t i o n Perfume, w a t e r - s o l u b l e Water

20.0 2.0 50.0

1.o 27.0

N o t e : WAS a p p r o x . 6%, medium v i s c o u s Formula N o . L69-03 Cleansing Lotion, Contains Surfactant

9bw/w Lamepon S Nutrilan I Monomuls 90-L 12 Water

9.4 0.5

0.2 89.9

N o t e : Low v i s c o u s , WAS 3% P r e p a r a t i o n : Monomuls 90-L 12 i s d i s s o l v e d i n Lamepon S w h i l e h e a t i s a p p l i e d . The r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s a r e t h e n added i n t h e o r d e r g i v e n above. The pH i s s e t t o 6 . 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . F o r m u l a No. L69-04

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model Formulae

Beauty Aids

95

Face Mask C l e a r y e l l o w , h i g h v i s c o s i t y . Produces a f i l m on t h e s k i n w h i c h c a n b e p u l l e d o r r u b b e d o f f a f t e r a p p r o x . 10 m i n u t e s . M a t e r i a1 /CTFA-Index: A: P o l y v i o l W 25/140/Polyvinyl Alcohol Ethanol 96%ig/Alcohol(Cosmetic grade) B: Water B e l s i 1 DMC 6035/Methi cone C o p o l y o l A c e t a t e C: Triethanolamine E t h a n o l 9 6 % i g / A l c o h o l (Cosmetic g r a d e ) P r e s e r v a t i ves, f r a g r a n c e s , p i gments

10,00% 25,OO 45,OO 2,oo 3,OO 15,OO q.s.

M i x P o l y v i o l W 25/140 and t h e c o s m e t i c a l c o h o l and s t i r i n t o

8. Heat t o a p p r o x . 85C i n w a t e r b a t h ( w h i l s t s t i r r i n g ) , u n t i l a c l e a r l u m p - f r e e s o l u t i o n i s p r o d u c e d . Cool t o a t l e a s t 40C and add t o C w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . Temperature s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks.

SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : F o r m u l a t i o n 313 AH Gel Exfoliator P r o d u c t i s a m i l d s c r u b due t o t h e i n c l u s i o n o f DC 193 w h i c h p r o v i d e s a smooth f e e l on t h e s k i n , w h i l e P o l y t r a p 6038 does t h e s c r u b b i n g a c t i o n by r e l e a s i n g m i n e r a l o i l ( i n f o r m o f beads) and a b s o r b i n g a t t h e same t i m e e x c e s s i v e o i l f r o m t h e s k i n . InAredients: Water ( d i s t i l l e d ) EDTA D i s o d i um E x t r a p o n e W i t c h Hazel AMP-95 Dow C o r n i n g 193 Carbopol 1342 (2% Soln) P o l y t r a p 6038 Suttocide A P e r f . Rain Forest N o t e : p H s h o u l d be 5 . 5 0 - 6 . 5 0

% by W e i g h t

( c o r r e c t w i t h AMP,

37.56 0.10 3.00 0.44 3.00 50.00 3.00 0.70 0.20 i f necessary)

Procedure: 1 . S t a r t m i x i n g w a t e r and add EDTA, and W i t c h Hazel and DC 193 and m i x t o d i s s o l v e . 2 . Then add s l o w l y Carbopol s o l u t i o n w i t h l o w speed ( t o a v o i d formation o f a i r bubbles). 3 . When a l l Carbopol i s i n , add AMP-95 t o n e u t r a l i z e i t and t h e n add s l o w l y P o l y t r a p 6038 t o g e t u n i f o r m d i s t r i b u t i o n . 4 . I n a homogeneous m i x t u r e add S u t t o c i d e and m i x . 5 . A t t h e end add t h e f r a g r a n c e and s l o w l y m i x i n . 6 . Take a sample f o r QC and, when approved, p a c k o f f p r o d c u c t .

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y : F o r m u l a t 4 o n PF-0311 s u g g e s t e d by Dow C o r n i n g

96

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Face Mask O/W

%w/w

I

S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2SM

I1

Triethanolamine G e l w h i t e USP Water

6.0

0.3 5.0 71 . 7

111 K a o l i n Titanium dioxide

15.0 2.0

Preparation: Gelwhite i s s t i r r e d while swelling S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2SM i s m e l t e d a t 75C and t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e a r e s t i r r e d i n a t A t 35C, t h e g e l w h i t e s o l u t i o n as w e l l d i o x i d e a r e added t o t h e cream. F o r m u l a No. €113-01

i n 30 p a r t s c o l d w a t e r . and t h e r e s t o f t h e w a t e r a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 8OC. as k a o l i n and t i t a n i u m

Vitamin Face Mask O/W

%w/w I

I1

Emulgade F C a r r o t o i l CLR V i t a m i n F g l y c e r i n e e s t e r CLR V i s c o n t r a n MHPC 400 Water

I11 Z i n c o x i d e

Kaol i n Almond meal Cremogen w i t c h h a z e l e x t r a c t I V

Camphor E t h y l a l c o h o l 96%

5.0

3.0 3.0 0.2 54.7 10.0 10.0 5.0 8.0 0.1 1. o

Preparation: V i s c o n t r a n MHPC i s s w e l l e d i n 30 p a r t s c o l d w a t e r . The f a t t y s u b s t a n c e s ( 1 ) a r e h e a t e d t o 75C and t h e r e s t o f t h e w a t e r i s s t i r r e d i n a t a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 80C. A t a p p r o x . 35C, t h e V i s c o n t r a n s o l u t i o n (II), t h e powder s u b s t a n c e s , t h e Cremogen w i t c h h a z e l e x t r a c t and t h e c a m p h o r / a l c o h o l s o l u t i o n a r e added t o t h e cream. Formula No. 513-02

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA:

Cosmetic Model Formulae

Beauty Aids

Facial Cleanser T h i s c l e a n s i n g f o r m u l a t i o n i s l i g h t , n o n - g r e a s y and w a t e r r i n s a b l e . I t p r o v des t h o r o u g h c l e a n s i n g w i t h o u t d r y i n g t h e skin. I n s r e d i e n t (CTFA) Part A: D e i o n i z e d Water Cocoamphodi a c e t a t e ( 1 ) Quaternium-15 ( 2 ) Methylparaben Propylparaben

Wei s h t % 89.55 1 .oo 0.10 0.10 0.05

Function D i 1u e n t

R i n s a b i 1 it y P r e s e r v a t iv e P r e s e r v a t iv e Preservative

P a r t 8: I s o s t e a r y l Benzoate ( 3 ) D i o c t y l Maleate ( 4 ) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Octyl Hydroxystearate (5) Pemulen TR-2 ( 6 ) C a r b o p o l 980 ( 7 )

4.00 2.00 1-00 1 .oo 0.20 0.60

Solvent Solvent Solvent Emol 1 ie n t Emu1s i f ie r Thickener

P a r t C: Aminomethyl P r o p a n o l

0.40

Neutralizing Agent

(95%) ( 8 )

( 1 ) M i r a n o l C2M Conc. NP ( M i r a n o l ) ( 2 ) D o w i c i l 200 (Dow C h e m i c a l ) (3) F i n s o l v SB ( F i n e t e x ) ( 4 ) B e r n e l E s t e r DOM ( B e r n e l C h e m i c a l ) (5) W i c k e n o l 171 (CasChem) (6) A c r y l a t e s / C l O - 3 0 A l k y l A c r y l a t e C r o s p o l y m e r ( B F G o o d r i c h ) ( 7 ) Carbomer ( B F G o o d r i c h ) ( 8 ) AMP-95 (Angus C h e m i c a l ) Preparation: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e f o r m u l a t i o n . M i x t o d i s s o l v e parabens. 2. Combine P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . M i x t o d i s s o l v e any s o f t lumps o f Pemulen and C a r b o p o l . 3 . W i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n , add t h e P a r t B s l u r r y t o P a r t A . M i x f o r 10-20 m i n u t e s t o a l l o w r e s i n s t o s w e l l . 4 . Add P a r t C and m i x v i g o r o u s l y t o p r o d u c e a smooth, w h i t e cream.

SOURCE: BFGoodrich C o . : F o r m u l a PO009

97

98

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Facial Gel Cleanser "The Pastel Collection" "Crystal" A g e n t l e f o a m i n g g e l c l e a n s e r d e s i g n e d t o t h o r o u g h l y deep c l e a n s e and r e f r e s h t h e s k i n w i t h o u t d i s t u r b i n g t h e s k i n ' s natural moisture balance.

YO b~ Weight_

I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: Dei o n i zed Water P o l y q u a t e r n i um-10 C i t r i c Acid T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Methylparaben S o d i um P C A / A j idew N-50 Part B: Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e TEA-Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e / A m i s o f t Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne PEG-I50 D i s t e a r a t e Laurami de DEA

50.150 0.200 0.100 0.100 0.150 0.500

CT-12

Part C: Fragrance/#IY-67

30.000 10.000 5.000 0.700 2,000

M e t h y l c h l o r o i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e and M e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e

0.250 0.050

P a r t D: Sodi um C h l o r i d e

0.800

Procedure: D i s p e r s e Polymer JR-125 i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . Heat t o 70C. Add r e m a i n i n g p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add p a r t B in g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , M i x a t 70C u n t i 1 c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous. Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t C . M i x w e l l . Add P a r t D as needed t o i n c r e a s e v i s c o s i t y . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 35C. Appearance: C l e a r l i q u i d PH: 5 . 2 0 - 5 . 7 0 V i s c o s i t y : 4,000-6,000 cps

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Beauty Aids

99

Facial Gel Cleanser "The Pastel Collection" '''Lavender''

A g e n t l e f o a m i n g g e l c l e a n s e r d e s i g n e d t o t h o r o u g h l y deeo c l e a n s e and r e f r e s h t h e s k i n w i t h o u t d i s t u r b i n g t h e s k i n ' s natural moisture balance. I n n r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: Part A: Dei o n i zed Water P o l y q u a t e r n i urn-10 C i t r i c Acid T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA Methylparaben Sodi um P C A / A j i dew N-50

% by W e g b t

50 176 0 200 0 100 0 100 0 . 150

0.500

Part 8: Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e TEA-Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e / A m i s o f t CT-12 Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e PEG-I50 D i s t e a r a t e Laurami de DEA

3 0 . 000

10.000 5.000 0.700 2.000

Part C: Lavender O i l / L a v e n d e r F l e u r s 4 0 / 4 2 E x t D&C V i o l e t ( 1 % S o l u t i o n ) D & C Red N o . 33 ( 1 % S o l u t i o n ) Methylchloroisothiazolinone and M e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e

0.200 0.020 0.004 0.050

P a r t D: Sodium C h l o r i d e

0.800

Procedure: D i s p e r s e Polymer JR-125 i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . Heat t o 70C. Add r e m a i n i n g p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . M i x a t 70C u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous. Cool t o 4 0 C . Add p a r t C . M i x w e l l . Add p a r t D as needed t o i n c r e a s e v i s c o s i t y . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 35C. Aooearance: Clear lavender l i a u i d , . pH: 5 . 2 0 - 5 . 7 0 V i s c o s i t y : 4 , 0 0 0 - 6 , 0 0 0 cps (RVT # 4 @ 1 0 rpm @ 25C)

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U S A ,

I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

100

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Facial Gel Cleanser "The Pastel Collection" "Marine" A g e n t l e f o a m i n g g e l c l e a n s e r d e s i g n e d t o t h o r o u g h l y deep c l e a n s e and r e f r e s h t h e s k i n w i t h o u t d i s t u r b i n g t h e s k i n ' s n a t u r a l moisture balance.

I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: D e i o n i z e d Water Polyquaternium-10 C i t r i c Acid T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Methylparaben S o d i um PCA/Aj idew N-50

YO b y Weight

Part 8: Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e TEA-Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e / A m i s o f t CT-12 Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e Laurami de DEA

50.187 0,200 0.100 0.100 0.150

0.500 30.000 10.000

5.000 0.700

2.000

P a r t C: Fragrance/#LK-40 FD&C B l u e No. 1 ( 1 % S o l u t i o n ) FD&C Y e l l o w No. 5 ( 1 % S o l u t i o n ) M e t h y l c h l o r o i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e and M e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e

0.200 0.004 0.009 0.050

P a r t D: Sodium C h l o r i d e

0.800

Procedure: D i s p e r s e Polymer JR-125 i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . Heat t o 70C. Add r e m a i n i n g p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . M i x a t 70C u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous. Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t C . M i x w e l l . Add p a r t D a s needed t o i n c r e a s e v i s c o s i t y . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 35C. Appearance: C l e a r l i g h t g r e e n l i q u i d PH: 5 . 2 0 - 5 . 7 0 V i s c o s i t y : 4,000-6,000 c p s (RVT #4 @ 1 0 rpm @ 25C)

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

Beauty Aids

101

Facial Gel Cleanser "The Pastel Collection" "Rose'" A g e n t l e f o a m i n g g e l c l e a n s e r d e s i g n e d t o t h o r o u g h l y deep c l e a n s e and r e f r e s h t h e s k i n w i t h o u t d i s t u r b i n g t h e s k i n ' s natural moisture balance.

I n g r g d i e n t j T r a d e Name:. Part A: Dei o n i zed Water Polyquaternium-10 C i t r i c Acid T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Methylparaben Sodl um P C A / A ] idew N-50

% b y Weight

50.193 0.200 0.100 0.100 0.150 0.500

P a r t B: Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e TEA-Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e / A m i s o f t CT-12 Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne PEG-150 01 s t e a r a t e Laurami de DEA Part C: Fragrance/#U-9257 D & C Red No. 3 3 ( 1 . 0 % S o l u t i o n ) Methylchloroisothiazolinone and M e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e Part 0: Sodium C h l o r i d e

30.000 10.000

5.000 0.700 2.000 0.200 0.007

0.050 0.800

Procedure: D i s p e r s e Polymer JR-125 i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . Heat t o 70C. Add r e m a i n i n g p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . M i x a t 70C u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous. Cool t o 4 0 C . Add p a r t C . M i x well. Add p a r t D as needed t o i n c r e a s e v i s c o s i t y , C o n t i n u e m i x i ng and c o o l i ng t o 35C. Appearance: C l e a r p i n k l i q u i d pH: 5 . 2 0 - 5 . 7 0 V i s c o s i t y : 4 , 0 0 0 - 6 , 0 0 0 c p s (RVT #4 @ 1 0 rpm @ 25C)

SOURCE:

A j i n o m o t o USA,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

102

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Gelled Nail Lacquer Remover

__ I n g r e_dxn_t_s: Acetone D e i o n i z e d Water Propylene G1ycol C a r b o p o l 941 ( 1 ) PEG-15 Cocamine ( 2 )

Weight% 72.0 9.5 9.5 2.0 2.0

Glycerin

5.0

Color Fragrance

9,s. 0,s.

Function Solvent Diluent Lubricant G e l l i n g Agent N e u t r a l iz e r Lubricant

Procedure: 1 . Combine a c e t o n e , d e i o n i z e d w a t e r , and p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l . M i x t h o r o u g h 1y . 2 . D i s p e r s e Carbopol 941 i n t o t h e a c e t o n e m i x t u r e w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . M i x f o r 30-45 m i n u t e s . 3 , Reduce a g i t a t i o n and n e u t r a l i ze v d i t h PEG-1 5 Cocami n e . 4 . Add g l y c e r i n , c o l o r , and f r a g r a n c e and m i x u n t i l w e l l combined Suppl i e r s : ( 1 ) BFGoodrich Co. ( 2 ) Akzo (Ethomeen C-25) Forrnul a COO30 Icey Blue Camphorated Skin Gel (Clear) Ingredi ents : P a r t A: Water ( D e i o n i z e d ) Carbopol 940 Part 8: Isopropyl Alcohol Camphor ( C r y s t a l s ) P o l y s o r b a t e 20 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) M e t h y l Parabens FDYC B l u e D i sod1 urn E D T A

Weight%

Funct 1 on

85.6 0.9

Diluent G e l l i n g Agent

10.0

Solvent f o r A c t 1 ve Active Surfactant Neutralizer Preservative S o l u b l e Dye C h e l a t i n g Agent

0.2 1.O 2 D 0.2

0.002 0.1

Procedure: 1 . S l o w l y s i f t Carbopol 940 i n t o t h e v o r t e x o f r a p i d l y a g i t a t i n g w a t e r when r e s i n i s d i s p e r s e d , r e d u c e a g i t a t i o n , m i x u n t i 1 homogenous d i s p e r s i o n i s o b t a i n e d . 2 . S e p a r a t e l y combine P a r t B. Add t o P a r t A w i t h moderate sweeping a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a c l e a r g e l r e s u l t s . F o r m u l a COO31 SOURCE: BF G o o d r i c h C o . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

103

Gentle Body Polisher (Formula 91-0507) T h i s e l e g a n t body p o l i s h e r i s p r e p a r e d w i t h m i l d s u r f a c t a n t s and a f i n e a b r a s i v e t h a t r e s u l t s i n a m i l d y e t e f f e c t i v e body p o l is h e r . I t s non-a1 k a l i ne pH and combi n a t i o n o f i n g r e d i e n t s a r e d e s i g n e d t o c l e a n s e t h e s k i n and l e a v e i t f e e l i n g c l e a n and smooth. The p o l i s h e r i s t h i c k and r i c h i n t h e package and on y o u r hand b u t r e a d i l y t h i n s when s h e a r e d , t h e r e f o r e , i t d i s penses e a s i 1y

.

% 0v W e i g h t

D e i o n i z e d Water Veegum U l t r a ( R . T . V a n d e r b i l t ) M e t h o c e l E4M (Dow C h e m i c a l ) M i r a c a r e XL Hamposyl C (W.R. Grace) Sodi um H y d r o x i de ( 5 0 % ) A l k a m i d e DL 207/S S t e a r i c A c i d ( T r i p l e Pressed) A1 kamul s EGMS Geropon AC-78/NP Acuscrub 50 (A1 1 ied S i g n a l ) Fragrance, Dye(s), P r e s e r v a t i v e

Q.S.

1 .oo 0.80 8.50 1 .oo 0.50 2.00 1 .oo 1 .oo 13.00 20.00

Q.S.

B l e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n d i s p e r s e Veegum U l t r a i n D e i o n i z e d Water and b e g i n h e a t i n g . When b a t c h has r e a c h e d 75C, add M e t h o c e l E4M, a g i t a t e v i g o r o u s l y u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . Decrease a g i t a t i o n t o a v o i d a i r e n t r a p m e n t . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 75C and add M i r a c a r e XL, Hamposyl C, Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 5 0 % ) , A l k a m i d e DL 207/S, S t e a r i c A c i d , A l k a m u l s EGMS, and Geropon AC-78/NP. A f t e r t h e Geropon AC-78/NP has d i s s o l v e d b e g i n c o o l i n g . Add A c u s c r u b 5 0 a t 60C. Add F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) and P r e s e r v a t i v e a t 40C. N o t e : F r a g r a n c e s e l e c t i o n may a f f e c t pH and v i s c o s i t y . V i s c o s i t y can be a d j u s t e d b y v a r y i n g t h e M e t h o c e l E4M l e v e l , pH can b e a d j u s t e d by v a r y i n g t h e Sodium H y d r o x i d e l e v e l . Appearance: Viscosity:

pH :

Typical Formulation Properties Opaque, A b r a s i v e Cream B r o o k f i e l d LV4 @ 25C ( 1 2 h o u r s a f t e r p r e p a r a t i o n ) C 0 . 3 RPM 650,000-750,000 C P S C 0 . 6 RPM 450,000-550,000 C P S C 1 . 5 RPM 250,000-350,000 C P S 6.5-7.5

CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Water, O x i d i z e d P o l y e t h y l e n e , Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e , DEA-Lauryl S u l f a t e , Lauramide OEA, Sodium S t e a r a t e , Sodium Cocoyl S a r c o s i n a t e , G l y c o l S t e a r a t e , Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e , D E A - L a u r a m i n o p r o p i o n a t e , Sodium Lauramimopropionate, Propylene G l y c o l , Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e , Fragrance, Preservative, Dye(s).

SOURCE:

Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : Formula 91-0507

104

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Gentle Facial Cleanser & Moisturizer (Formula 91-0901) This elegant, high solids f a c i a l cleanser i s formulated with mild c l e a n s i n g a g e n t s and m o i s t u r i z i n g a g e n t s t o l e a v e t h e f a c e c l e a n and m o i s t u r i z e d . I t s n o n - a l k a l i n e pH has been chosen t o match t h e s k i n ' s n a t u r a l pH. I t s r i c h creamy, p e a r l e d appearance conveys i t s l u x u r i o u s f e e l and p e r f o r m a n c e . Dei o n i zed Water Hamposyl L-30 (W.R.Grace) Rhodafac RS 610 S o r b i t o 1 (70%) G1 y c e r i n D i g l y c e r i n (Solvay) A1 kamul s EGMS Cetearyl Alcohol A l k a m i d e D I N 295/S Mineral O i l Beeswax Ceresin Sodi um B o r a t e Cheelox 100 Geropon AC-78/NP Fragrance, Dye(s), P r e s e r v a t i v e

% By Weiaht Q.S. 40.00 3.00 2.10 1.50 1.50 4.00 1.50 1.oo 1.oo 0.20 0.20

0.05 0.05 20.00

Q.S.

B l e n d i n g Procedure: I n a s i d e scraped k e t t l e , o r o t h e r k e t t l e s u i t a b l e f o r p r e p a r i n g heavy creams, h e a t a l l components e x c e p t Geropon AC-78/NP t o 75C w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n t o a v o i d f o a m i n g and a e r a t i o n . Add Geropon AC-78/NP and m a i n t a i n a t 75C u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . A v o i d a e r a t i o n and f o a m i n g . C o o l . Add F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) and P r e s e r v a t i v e a t 35C. W h i l e c o o l i n g , t h e p r o d u c t w i l l pass t h r o u g h a v e r y t h i c k phase. However, upon f u r t h e r c o o l i n g and m i x i n g , t h e p r o d u c t w i l l t h i n . N o t e : V i s c o s i t y can b e a d j u s t e d as d e s i r e d b y v a r y i n g t h e A I kamul s EGMS 1eve1

.

Typical Formulation Properties P e a r l e d , F l o w a b l e Cream 5.7-6.1 50% B r o o k f i e l d LV4 @ 25C @ 0 . 3 RPM 50,000-150,000 @ 1 . 5 RPM 25,000-100,000 Viscosity reading i s function o f aeration.

Appearance: pH : Solids: V i scosi t y * :

*

CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Water, Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e , Sodium L a u r o y l S a r c o s i n a t e , G l y c o l S t e a r a t e , T r i d e c e t h - 6 Phosphate, Cetearyl Alcohol, S o r b i t o l , Glycerin, D i g l y c e r o l , Linoleamide DEA, M i n e r a l O i l , Beeswax, C e r e s i n , Sodium B o r a t e , D i s o d i u m EDTA.

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : F o r m u l a

Beauty Aids

105

Hair and Skin Moisturizing Spray A r e f r e s h i n g spray c o n t a i n i n g s p e c i a l humectants t o r e p l e n i s h much needed m o i s t u r e t o h a i r a n d s k i n . C o n t a i n s Sodium PCA t o h e l p r e s t o r e n o r m a l m o i s t u r e b a l a n c e and keep t h e s k i n young a n d f r e s h . A l s o c o n t a i n s A l o e Vera Gel t o s o o t h e d r y n e s s , a n d e m o l l i e n t s t o c o n d i t i o n and p r o t e c t t h e s k i n and h a i r f r o m d r y i n g o u t . Recommended f o r u s e under d r y c l i m a t i c c o n d i t i o n s , d r y h e a t o r d u r i n g sun e x p o s u r e .

I i l g r e d i entiTradecNam3 I P a r t A: D e i o n i z e d Water Sodi um P C A / A j i dew N - 5 0 A l o e Vera Gel D e c o l o r i z e d 1 X D i m e t h i c o n e Copolyol/Dow C o r n i n g 193 S u r f a c t a n t D i azo1 i d i n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l I 1

”/.._bLWEkk!.

a a . 95 3.00 5.00 0.30 0.10

Part B: P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Methylparaben

2.00 0.15

P a r t C: TEA-Cocoyl

0.50

G l u t a m a t e / A m i s o f t CT-12

Procedure: Mix Part A i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l everything i s completely d i s s o l v e d . H e a t P a r t B t o 5 0 d e g r e e s C e n t i g r a d e and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add P a r t C . M i x we1 1

.

Appearance: C l e a r c o l o r l e s s , w a t e r - t h i n l i q u i d pH: 5 . 3 0 - 5 . 6 0 Cheek Rouge Wt% A

B.

Amihope L L N y l o n Powder T i t a n 1 um D i 0x1 de A 1 u m i num 0x1 de Pigment Talc

15.0 15.0 10.0 2.0 q.s.

the rest

Dimethylpolysi loxane

Procedure: 1 . M i x ( A ) w i t h a speed m i x e r . 2 . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) , and m i x . 3 . S i e v e t h e m , and p r e s s . Note: T h i s cheek r o u g e has smooth t o u c h a n d p r o p e r a d h e s i o n .

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U S A , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

2.0

lo6

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Highly Protective Foundation

%w/w

Inaredient : 1 Monomuls 90-0 18 2 Lameform TGI 3 Cetiol A 4 S i p o l 1618 C50 5 Beeswax 6 Zinc stearate 7 T i o v e i l TG 8 Magnesium s u l p h a t e 9 G1 y c e r i ne 10 Pigments 11 P r e s e r v a t i v e 12 Water

2.0 4.0 0.0 1.0

3.0 2.0 0.0

1.o

3.0 q.s. q.s. t o 100.0

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a r i c h W/O T i n t e d F o u n d a t i o n Cream w i t h good e m o l l i e n c e and h i g h UV p r o t e c t i o n (SPF a p p r o x . 1 2 ) . The f i r s t seven components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Components 8 & 9 a r e d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r and t h i s m i x t u r e i s t h e n h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e as t h e o i l phase. The w a t e r phase i s t h e n added t o t h e o i l phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. The p i g m e n t s s h o u l d be i n c o r p o r a t e d w e l l , and t h e p r o d u c t homogenised by T r i p l e Roll M i l l . Formula TS 476 Water Thin Milk I n a r e d i en 1 Eumulg 82 2 C u t i n a E24 3 C e t i o l 1 4 14E 4 C u t i n a MD 618 C50 5 Sipol 6 Urea 7 G l y c e r ne 8 Preservative 9 Water

n

%w/w 1.0 2.0 7.0 1.0 1.o

3.0 3.0 q.s. t o 100.0

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a w a t e r t h i n O/W s k i n m i l k . I t w o u l d a l s o be s u i t a b l e f o r use i n a pump d i s p e n s e r o r as an a e r o s o l body mousse. The f i r s t f i v e components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Components 6 & 7 a r e d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r and h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e as t h e o i l p h a s e . The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. Formula T S 453

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: S k i n Care P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

107

Lasting Strength Nail Toughener (Keratin Protein Nail Strengthener and Conditioner) N a i l s a r e made o f K e r a t i n p r o t e i n . K e r a t i n N a i l Toughener i s a p p l i e d d i r e c t l y t o t h e n a i l becoming a p a r t o f t h e n a i l i t s e l f and f o r m i n g a p r o t e c t i v e m o i s t u r e r e t e n t i v e f i l m w h i c h enhances t h e n a i l ' s f l e x i b i l i t y and d u r a b i l i t y . When used r e g u l a r l y , L a s t i n g S t r e n g t h N a i l Toughener w i l l c o u n t e r a c t t h e damaging e f f e c t s of d e t e r g e n t s and o t h e r e n v i r o n m e n t a l abuse. K e r a - T e i n 1000 and Gel-Co a r e f i l m f o r m e r s , c o a t i n g and p e n e t r a t i n g i n t o t h e " p o r e s " o f t h e n a i l . K e r a - t e i n 1000 AS, a cationic, alcohol soluble Keratin ester w i l l help p l a s t i c i z e t h e n a i l and p r e v e n t e m b r i t t l e m e n t due t o e x c e s s i v e d r y i n g . L a s t i n g S t r e n g t h N a i l Toughener adds a v e r y a t t r a c t i v e , n a t u r a l l o o k i n g , h e a l t h y sheen t o t h e n a i l s . Inaredients: Water Isopropyl Alcohol K e r a - T e i n 1000 ( H y d r o l y z e d K e r a t e i n ) K e r a - T e i n 1000 AS ( E t h y l E s t e r o f H y d r o l y z e d K e r a t i n ) Gel-Co ( G e l a t i n ) C e l q u a t L 200 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 4 ) Fragrance

%w/w 59.5 20.0 9.2 10.0 1.o 0.2

0.1

Procedure: M i x w a t e r , g e l a t i n and C e l q u a t and warm t o 50C u n t i l a l l i n s o l u t i o n . Cool t o 40C. Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s . Age F i 1t e r s c l e a r . overnight

.

D i r e c t i ons :

.

Remove n a i 1 p o l ish A p p l y "Dab-0-Mati c " o v e r c l e a n , d r y n a i 1s and under t i p s . Use t w i c e d a i l y and a l w a y s a f t e r w a s h i n g . A p p l i c a t o r and Cap b y : Dab-0-Matic, V i a l b y : Brockway G l a s s ,

M t . Vernon,

P a r k e r s b u r g , WV

SOURCE: Maubrook I n c . : F o r m u l a #SK-2401

NY

608

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Light Coverage Foundation I n Q r e d ie n t : A : D e i o n i z e d Water Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i l i c a t e C e l l u l o s e Gum (CMC 7MF) 0 : Butylene Glycol T r i e t h a n o l ami ne, 99% Methylparaben D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( G e r m a l l 1 1 ) C: Glyceryl Stearate Isostearic Acid S t e a r i c A c i d XXX Isopropyl Lanolate Propylene Glycol D i e s t e r Propylparaben D: Titanium Dioxide I r o n Oxides Talc

.x*

W t 59.55 1.20 0.60

6.00 2 * 00

0.30 0.20 1 .oo 2.00 2.00 5.00 5.00 0.15 5.62 1.38 8.00

Procedure: D r y b l e n d t h e Veegum and C e l l u l o s e Gum and add them t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h a homogenizer f o r 20 m i n . a t 5000 rpm. Add t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g each f o r 3 m i n u t e s . Add t h e P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s . B e g i n h e a t i n g t o 75C. Heat t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s t o 75C. Add P a r t C t o P a r t s A t B t D and m i x 10 m i n u t e s . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g s l o w l y w h i l e c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Formula f r o m Sun Chemical C o r p . Eyeliner Veegum p r o v i d e s t h i c k e n i n g and p i g m e n t suspens on i n t h i s f o r m u l a w h i l e i n s u r i n g smooth a p p l i c a t i o n p r o p e r t e s . T h i s p r o d u c t can b e a p p l i e d t o t h e e y e l i d w i t h a b r u s h Inaredients: A: Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e D e i o n i z e d Water 8 : PVP (PVP K-30) Dei o n i zed Water C : I r o n Oxides D: P r e s e r v a t i v e

W t .%*

2.5 75.5 2.0 10.0 10.0 q,s.

Procedure: S l o w l y add Veegum t o t h e w a t e r , w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l smooth. D i s s o l v e t h e PVP i n w a t e r u s i n g a l i t t l e h e a t . Add B t o A and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add C and m i x u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Add P a r t D and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Formula No. 1 0 7 *AS r e c e i v e d b a s i s SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , I n c . : Veegum i n C o l o r C o s m e t i c s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

109

Lip Care Stick, Colorless Parts 80.0 5.0 5.0

C u t i n a LM M y r i t o l 318 C e t i o l SN Formula N o . A42-01

Lip Care Stick, Slightly Tinted, with Pearly Gloss Parts 80.0 10.0 0.3 5.0

C u t i n a LM M y r i t o l 318 Colorants: T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t e r MP 115 Formula No. A42-02 Lip Care Stick with Azulene C u t i n a LM C e t i o l SN Azulene, p u r e l y c r y s t . Formula N o . A42-03

Parts 85.00 15.00 0.02

100%

Lip Salve Parts 80.0 20.0

C u t i n a LM Eutanol G F o r m u l a NO. A42-04

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA:

Cosmetic Model F o r m u l a e

110

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Lipstick Parts 85.0 15.0 4.0 2.0

C u t i n a LM Eutanol G Pigment c o l o r s Cosmetic t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e 300 309 F o r m u l a No. P43-01 Lipstick, Creamy

Parts 72.0 18.0 3.0 4.0

C u t i n a LM M y r i t o l 318 Pigment c o l o r s Cosmetic t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e 300 309 F o r m u l a No. P43-02 Lipstick with Pearly Gloss

Parts 75.0 15.0 3.0 1.o 10.0

C u t i n a LM Eutanol G Piqment c o l o r s Cosmetic T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e 300 309 T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t e r MP 115 F o r m u l a No. P43-03 Lipstick, Creamy, With Pearly Gloss

Parts 70.0 20.0

C u t i n a LM M y r i t o l 318 Pigment c o l o r s Cosmetic T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e 300 309 T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t e r MP 115 Formula No. P43-04

3.0

1 .o 10.0

Lip Make-up in Cream Form with Pearly Gloss

__Parts C u t i n a LM M y r i t o l 318 P i ament c o l o r s T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t e r MP 115 N o t e : L i p g l o s s : Due t o t h e h i g h o i l c o n t e n t , t h i s t y p e produces increased l i p g l o s s . F o r m u l a No. P15-01

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

60.0 40.0 1.0 5.0 a f a t t y cream o f

Beauty Aids

111

Lipstick Material/CTFA-Index: Carnauba C a n d e l i l l a Wax Ozokerite M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax M i n e r a l O i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y Vasel in e / P e t r o l atum Wacker-Bel s i 1 SM 6 0 1 8 / S t e a r y l M e t h i c o n e F1 u i 1an/Lanol i n O i 1 Castor O i l Tegosoft 189/Isooctadecyl Isononanoate Wacker-Bel s i 1 PDM 1000/Phenyl D i m e t h i c o n e Pigments Fragrances,

preservatives,

flavours

6 .OO% 5 -50 6.50 1.50 5.50 3 -00 5.00 15.00 31.20 5.00 3.00 12.80 9.s.

M i x a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and m e l t . F o r m u l a t i o n 1212 AH

Lip Stick Material/CTFA-Index: Carnauba Candel i11 a Wax Ozo k e r it e M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 ine Wax M i n e r a l O i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y Vasel i n e / P e t r o l a t u m B e l s i l SDM 6 0 2 2 / D i m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) S t e a r o x y D i m e t h y l s i l a n e (and) Stearoxy D i m e t h y l d i s i loxane F1 u i 1a n / L a n o l in O i 1 Castor O i l Tegosoft 189/Isooctadecyl Isononanoate B e l s i 1 DM 350/Di m e t h i cone B e l s i 1 BNP/Boron N i t r i d e Pigments

i n g r e d i e n t s and m e l t .

T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : 8 weeks a t 45C. F o r m u l a t i o n 778 AH

SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e s :

3.00 15.00 35. 00 5.70 0.50 10.00 2.80 9.s.

Preservatives, fragrances Mix a l l

6.00% 6.00 6.00 1-50 5,50 3.00

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

112

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Liquid Foundation

LQF-102 Ingredients: Stearic Acid Isopropyl Myri s t a t e Liquid Petrolatum Cet ano 1 B u t y l Parahydroxybenzoate C o l o r P i gments Amihope L L

A:

B:

C:

D:

Wt% 3.0 9.0 1.5

1.o 0.1 8.0 2.0

1.5

Triethanolamine Water

25.0

5.0

Propylene Glycol Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate Water

28.8

Bentonite (1%)

15.0

0.1

Preparation: I ) ( A ) , ( E ) , and (C) a r e mixed a t 80C. 2 ) Add ( E ) , ( C ) , t o ( A ) . 3 ) Then add ( 0 ) t o t h e f o r m e r m i x t u r e . 4 ) Cool s l o w l y t o 40C. 5 ) S t i r w i t h homomixer f o r 5 m i n u t e s . 6 ) Cool down t o 25C. Powder Foundation A.

Wt% 31 . O 30.0 10.0 1.o 8.0 10.0 q.s.

Talc Seri c i t e M i ca Magnesi urn S t e a r a t e T i t a n 1 um D i o x i d e Amihope LL Pigments

4.0 6.0

B. I s o s t e a r i c A c i d Dimethylpolysi loxane Procedure: 1 . M i x ( A ) w i t h a speed m i x e r 2 . Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) , and m i x . 3 . S i e v e them, and p r e s s .

Note: T h i s powder f o u n d a t i o n has smooth t o u c h and p r o p e r a d h e s i o n .

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U S A ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

BeauiyAids

113

Long Wearing Creamy Lipstick The l o n g w e a r i n g c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s o f t h i s l i p s t i c k a r e enhanced by t h e u s e o f C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e i n t h e p i g m e n t g r i n d . The Behenoxy D i m e t h i c o n e c o n t r i b u t e s b o t h t o g l o s s and t o t h e creamy t e x t u r e . Th C24-28 A l k y l I s o s t e a r a t e I s o n o n a n o a t e p r o v i d e s s l ip and emol 1 ie n c y . ~Inaredients: %w/w Phase A : Castor O i l 50.05 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosoft OS) 3.00 C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9 8 0 1 ) 1.oo Mineral O i l 9.00 Candel i 11 a Wax 4.35 Carnauba Wax 3.00 Ozokerite 3.00 C24-28 A l k y l M e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9810) 3.15 Behenoxy D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 2440) 2.00 Lanol i n A l c o h o l 3.00 0.05 BHA Phase B: Pigments 3.00 0.40 C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e (Ab 1 Wax 9801 1 Castor O i 1 4.00 Phase C : 11 . o o T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (and M i ca Phase D : Fragrance Q.S Procedure: M e l t p a r t A t o g e t h e r a t 80C. M i x . G r i n d t h e pigments o f Phase B i n t o t h e o i l s and waxes o f Phase B u s i n g a t r i p l e r o l l m i l l . Add t o Phase A . M i x a t 80C. Add Phase C . Cool t o 55C. Add f r a g r a n c e . M o l d . SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Chemical C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d Formul a t i on Lip Gloss

Et2%

400 ( 1 ) 20.0 Octyl Stearate (2) 52.0 Castor O i l 15.0 Lanolin Alcohol ( 3 ) 5.0 Oleyl Alcohol ( 4 ) 8.0 Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 85-9OC w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l t h e p o l y e t h y l e n e has c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . P o u r i n t o m o l d s and a l l o w t o c o o l . (1) Allied-Signal Inc. ( 2 ) Henkel/Emery C o r p . ( 3 ) Amerchol C o r p . ( 4 ) Croda I n c . A - C 4 0 0 i s t h e g e l l i n g a g e n t w h i c h p r o v i d e s s t a b i l i t y and g l o s s . I n a d d i t i o n , i t i n c r e a s e s t h e permanence o f t h e l i p gloss f i l m . A-C

SOURCE: A l l i e d - S i g n a l

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

114

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Macroemulsion Cleansing Gel Inqredient : P a r t A: Dei o n i zed Water Pemulen TR-2 ( 1 ) ( 1 . 0 % s o l u t i o n ) Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( 2 ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) D i s o d i um EDTA Benzophenone-4

Weiqht%

(1% s o l u t i o n )

P a r t B: Mineral O i l (3) I s o s t e a y l Benzoate ( 4 ) Part C: Carbopo 980 ( 5 ) ( 2 . 0 % S o l u t i o n ) G1 y c e r i n Hydrogenated S t a r c h H y d r o l y s a t e (70%) ( 6 ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( a n d ) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben ( 7 ) (1)

Acrylates/ClO-30

39.05 9.00 10.00 0.90 0.03 0.02 3.00 3.00

30.00 2.20 2.00 0.80

A l k y l A c r y l a t e C r o s s p o l y m e r (BFGoodrich)

( 2 ) Benecel MP943PR ( A q u a l o n ) ( 3 ) Drakeol 7 (Penreco) ( 4 ) F i n s o l v SB ( F i n e t e x ) ( 5 ) Carbomer (BFGoodrich) ( 6 ) H y s t a r CG ( L o n z a ) ( 7 ) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )

SOURCE: BF G o o d r i c h C o . : Formula PO015

Beauty Aids

115

Macroemulsion Fragrance Pearl I n g r e d i ent(CTFA) : P a r t A: D e i o n i z e d Water Pemulen T R - 2 ( 1 . 0 % S o l u t i o n ) Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( 2 ) (1 .O% Solution) T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Benzophenone-4 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (99%)

Wei p h t % 41 - 1 5 7.50 10.00 0.03 0.02 0.20

Function D i 1u e n t Emu1s i f ie r Aqueous F i l m Former Chel a n t U . V . Absorber N e u t r a l iz i n g Agent

D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l p a r a b e n (and) Propylparaben ( 3 )

0.80

Preservative

P a r t B**: Castor O i l

1 .80

Octyl Hydroxystearate ( 4 ) G l y c e r y l T r i behenate ( 5 )

1.80 0.40

Fragrance Carrier Emol 1 ie n t O i l Phase Thickener V i s u a l Appeal

P e a r l e s c e n t Pigment ( T i t a n i u m D i oxi de/Mi ca-based) Fragrance O i l

0.10-0.20

Part C: D e i o n i z e d Water Carbopol 981 ( 2 . 0 % S o l u t i o n ) P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Hydrogenated S t a r c h H y d r o l y s a t e (70% S o l u t i o n ) ( 1 ) Acrylates/ClO-30

2.00 15.00 15.00 2.20 2.00

D i 1u e n t Thickener/ Stabilizer Humectant Humectant

A l k y l A c r y l a t e C r o s s p o l y m e r (BFGoodrich)

( 2 ) Benecel MP943PR ( A q u a l o n ) ( 3 ) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n ) ( 4 ) N a t u r e Chem OHS (CasChem) ( 5 ) Syncrowax HR-C ( C r o d a ) ( 6 ) Carbomer (BFGoodrich)

**Combine C a s t o r O i l , H y d r o x y s t e a r a t e , and T r i b e h e n a t e e s t e r s . Heat t o 9OC. S l o w l y c o o l t o a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h a g i t a t i o n , t h e n add p i g m e n t and f r a g r a n c e .

SOURCE:

BFGoodrich Co. : Formula PO016

116

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Make-Up Emulsion O/W Matting, Liquid

%w/w 10.0 1.o 4.0 4.0 3.0 6.0 2.0 70.0

I C u t i n a KD 16

E u m u l g i n 81 Eutanol G Isopropyl myri s t a t e Paraffin o i l , high viscous P i gment c o l o r I 1 A e r o s i l 200 Water S e t t o pH 7 F o r m u l a No. P21-01 Skin Emulsion, Tinted, With Pearly Gloss O/W

96w/w 3.5 1.2 2.0 0.5 3.0 2.5 1.5 0.3 2.0 1.o

C u t i n a MD Lanette 0 S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2 SM Cholesterin P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous P i gment c o l o r s I 1 L u v i s k o l K30 A1 1a n t o i n 1 , 2 - p r o p y l ene g l y c o l T r i e t h a n o l ami n e Water I 1 1 T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t e r MP 115 F o r m u l a N o . P22-01 I

77.5 5.0

Rouge Emulsion, Liquid O/W

sbw/w C u t i n a MO 5.0 E u m u l g i n B1 1.5 E u m u l g i n 82 1.5 5.0 Eutanol G 25.0 Paraffin o i l , high viscous 3.0 Vase1 ine, w h i t e 1.0 Pigment c o l o r s 2 .o C o s m e t i c T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e 300 309 I 1 Veegurn s o l u t i o n 5% 25.0 Water 31 . O P r e p a r a t i o n : The p i g m e n t s a r e mixed w i t h p a r t o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u l s i o n , homogenized and s t i r r e d i n t o t h e r e s t o f t h e e m u l s i o n Formula No. P23-01

I

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic

Model Formulae

117

Beauty Ai&

Mascara F i r m cream. Material/CTFA-Index: A : B e l s i l SDM 6 0 2 2 / D i m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) S t e a r o x y D i m e t h y l s i l a n e (and) Stearoxy D i m e t h y l d i s i loxane

5.00%

B: B e l s i 1 PDM 200/Phenyl

4.00 5.00 19.00 5.50 4.10

C: Triethanolamine Water

6.00 41 .40

D i m e t h i cone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Vaseline/Petrolatum M i n e r a l o i 1 , h i gh v i s c o s i t y

10 . o o 9.s.

P i gment e / (Co 1o u r ) P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume

M e l t A a t 60C, m i x i n B w h i l s t s t i r r i n g q u i c k l y . Work i n C homogeneously. Temperature s t a b i l i t y :

a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks.

F o r m u l a t i o n 212 AH Mascara Creamy.

5 . 00%

A : W a c k e r - B e l s i l SM 6 0 1 8 / S t e a r y l M e t h i c o n e Wacker-Bel s i 1 PDM 200/Phenyl D i m e t h i cone C e t y l A1 coho1 Stearic Acid Vase1 i n e / P e t r o l atum Mineral O i 1 (high v i scosi t y )

4.00 5.00 7.00 3.50 4.50

B: T r i s A m i no/Tromethami ne Water

0.90 60.10

C . Pigments

10.00

P r e s e r v a t i v e s , Perfume M e l t A a t 60C, AB homogeneously.

add B w i t h good a g i t a t i o n .

q.s.

S t i r pigments i n t o

F o r m u l a t i o n 1214 AH

SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

118

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Mascara Soft, creamy, spreads easily. Insredients: Part A: B e l s i l SM 6018 B e l s i l PDM 200 Cetyl Alcohol S t e H r i c AC d Vase1 in e P a r a f f i n o 1. viscous

% by Weight 5.00 4.00 5.00 7.00 3.50 4.50

P a r t B: T r i s Amino Water

0.90 60.10

P a r t C: Pigment P r i s e r v a t ive,

10.00 q.s.

Perfume

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-OZ41E s u g g e s t e d by R e z e p t u r e n d e r Wacker-Chemie GmbH, Munchen

Eye Gel P a r t s bv Weight

Ingredients: Part A: Cornflower e x t r a c t Matricaria extract Ami gel

30.00 30.00 20 * 00

P a r t B: Deionized water Chamomi 1 e w a t e r Cornflower water

SPF 1000 50.00 80.00

Part C: Bronopol M e t h y l p a r a b e n (POBM) Procedure: Blend A .

0.50 1.oo

Add B and s t i r . Add C and s t i r .

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0274E s u g g e s t e d i n Soap, O c t o b e r , 1993 i s s u e

P e r f u m e r y , Cosmetics;

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

119

BeautyAids

Mild Facial Cleanser Ingredients: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l B u t y l e n e G1 y c o l Glycerin Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F) D i rnethi cone P r o p y l PG-Betai ne ( A b i 1 B 9950) Menthol Fragrance* Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) Sodium PCA ( a n d ) G l y c i n e ( a n d ) F r u c t o s e ( a n d ) Urea ( a n d ) N i a c i n a m i d e ( a n d ) I n o s i t o l ( a n d ) Sodium Benzoate ( a n d ) L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l ) P r e s e r v a t iv e s Water

%w/w 2.00 1.50 0.75 1.50 2.50 0.10 Q.S

0.20 Q.S

91.40

Procedure: 1. Mix a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . 2 . I f necessary, s o l u b i l i z e t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e s i n t h e Propylene G l y c o l and p a r t o f t h e w a t e r . * I f a n o n - w a t e r s o l u b l e f r a g r a n c e i s used - i t can be s o l u b i l i z e d w i t h t h e a d d i t i o n o f PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e ( A n t i 1 1 7 1 ) o r PEG-20 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L2)

Hot Oil Treatment Insredients: Almond O i 1 Rose H i p O i 1 Mineral O i l C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9814) S t e a r y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9800) D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 8852) Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV-20) Squalene C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) Preservatives Fragrance

%w/w

Procedure: Mix i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r .

SOURCE: Goldschrnidt Chemical C o r p . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

15.0 5.0 56.7 1.0 0.5 0.8 0.5 2.5 15.0 5.0 Q.S.

Q.S.

120

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisturizing Fluid Pemulen TR-1 a l l o w s t h e a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e e m u l s i f i c a t i o n o f t h i s l i g h t - f e e l i n g , g l o s s y l o t i o n . S u i t a b l e a s a l i g h t hand l o t i o n o r f a c i a l m o i s t u r i z e r , t h i s p r o d u c t exudes a m o i s t , n o u r i s h i n g f e e l upon a p p l i c a t i o n f o l l o w e d b y a d r y , l i g h t a f t e r f e e l . pH i s a b o u t 5 . 6 . I n g r - e d i e n t (CTFAJ: P a r t A: Dei on1 z e d Water Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( 1 )

w El&t%

u n c t i on -F____

G1 y c e r i n Polysorbate 80 ( 2 )

4.00 0.40

D i s o d i um E D T A

0.10

D i 1uent Aqueous Smooth i n g Aid Humectant Particle Size Reduct i on C h e l a t i n g Agent

Propylene G l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) Propylparaben ( 3 )

0.80

Preservative

Part 8: Polyglyceryl-10 Decaoleate ( 4 ) Octyl Hydroxystearate ( 5 ) I s o s t e a r y l Benzoate ( 6 ) Dimethicone (1000 c . s . ) Pemulen TR-1 ( 7 ) C a r b o p o l 981 ( 8 )

4.00 3.00 2.50 0.50 0.20 0.30

Moisture B a r r i e r Emol 1 ie n t €mol 1 i e n t Lubricant Emu1s i f ie Thickener

P a r t C: Triethanolamine

0.40

N e u t r a l iz Agent

(99"o)

83.70 0.10

( 1 ) M e t h o c e l E4M Premium (Dow C h e m i c a l ) ( 2 ) Tween 8 0 ( I C 1 A m e r i c a s ) ( 3 ) Germaben I I E ( S u t t o n L a b s ) ( 4 ) Capmul 1 O G - 1 0 - 0 ( C a p i t a l C i t y P r o d u c t s ) ( 5 ) W i c k e n o l 1 7 1 (CasChem) (6) Finsolv S8 (Finetex)

( 7 ) A c r y l a t e s / C l O - 3 0 A l k y l A c r y l a t e C r o s s p o l y m e r (BFGoodrich) ( 8 ) Carbomer ( B F G o o d r i c h ) Preparation: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e f o r m u l a t i o n . M e t h o c e l i s added s l o w l y w i t h r a p i d agitation, 2 . Combine P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . S o f t lumps o f Pemulen and Carbopol s h o u l d b e d i s r u p t e d w i t h m i x i n g . 3 . W i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A. M i x f o r 1 5 - 3 0 m i n u t e s t o a l l o w p o l y m e r s t o s w e l l . Add P a r t C and m i x v i g o r o u s l y t o p r o d u c e a smooth, g l o s s y l o t i o n .

SOURCE:

BFGoodrich C o . :

F o r m u l a PO008

Beauty Aids

121

Natural Cleanser

5 75 5 0

D i s t i 11ed Water P a t l a c NAL P a t i o n i c 138C Pat io n i c 122A Mineral O i l R i t a p e g 150 DS R i t a EGDS Methylparaben Propylparaben S u p e r s a t AWS-4 Sodium C h l o r i d e (25%)

I

0.50 8.00 2 * 00 8.00 0.50 3.00 0.20 0.10 2.00 0.20

pH: 6 . 1 V i s c o s i t y : 1 2, 50 0 c p s S t a b i 1 it i e s : 4F: no change a f t e r 3 c y c l e s 40F: no change a f t e r 6 weeks 1lOF: s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 2 weeks D e s c r i p t i o n o f System: m i n e r a l o i l no R i t a v e n a 5 Formula 1 14-6 Natural Cleanser D i s t i l l e d Water P a t l a c NAL Pat io n i c 138C P a t i o n i c 122A Ritavena 5 R i t a p e g 1 5 0 DS R i t a EGDS Methylparaben Propylparaben S u p e r s a t AWS-4 Kathon CG

80.50 0.50 8.00 2.00 3.00 0.50 3.00 0.20 0.10 2.00 0.20

pH: 6 . 4 V i s c o s i t y : 30,500 c p s S t a b i 1 it i e s : 4F: no change a f t e r 3 c y c l e s 40F: no change a f t e r 6 weeks l l O F : s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 3 weeks D e s c r i p t i o n o f System: no o i l 3% R i t a v e n a 5 Formul a 1 14-9

SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : R i t a v e n a 5 Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

122

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Natural Cleanser

Wt% D i s t i 1 l e d Water P a t l a c NAL Pat io n i c 138C P a t i o n i c 122A Corn O i l Ritavena 5 R i t a p e g 150 DS R i t a EGDS Methylparaben Propylparaben S u p e r s a t AWS-4 Perfume pH: 6 . 3 V i s c o s i t y : 12,500 c p s Stabilities: Freeze/Thaw: no change a f t e r 3 c y c l e s 40F: no change a f t e r 6 weeks 11OF: no change a f t e r 6 weeks D e s c r i p t i o n o f System: c o r n o i 1 / 2 % R i t a v e n a 5 Foam T e s t i n g : Foam H20 0.0 Minute: 120 95 1.0 Minute: 105 95 3.0 Minutes: 105 95 F o r m u l a 1 1 1-207

73.50 0.50 8.00 2 .oo 8.00 2.00 0.50 3.00 0.20 0.10 2.00 0.20

Natural Cleanser D i s t i 1 l e d Water

P a t l a c NAL Pat io n i c 138C P a t i o n i c 122A Ritavena 5 R i t a p a g 150 DS R i t a EGDS Methylparaben Propylparaben S u p e r s a t AWS-4 Kathon CG pH: 6 . 4 V i s c o s i t y : 30,500 c p s S t a b i 1 it i e s : Freeze/Thaw: no change a f t e r 3 c y c l e s 40F: no change a f t e r 6 weeks l l O F : s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 3 weeks D e s c r i p t i o n o f System: no o i 1 / 3 % R i t a v e n a 5 Foam T e s t i n g : Foam H20 200 90 0.0 Minute: 200 100 1.0 Minute: 100 200 3.0 Minutes: F o r m u l a 114-9

SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . :

Wt% 80.50 0.50 8.00 2.00 3.00 0.50 3.00 0.20 0.10 2.00 0.20

RITAVENA 5 Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

123

Natural Cleanser with Ritavena 5 %w/w Inqredients: P a r t A: 63.50 1 . D i s t i l l e d Water 0.50 2 . P a t l a c NAL 8.00 3. P a t i o n i c 138C 2.00 4. P a t i o n i c 122A 8.00 5 . Corn O i l 0.50 6 . R i t a p e g 150 DS 3.00 7 . R i t a EGDS 0.20 8. Methylparaben 0.10 9 . Propylparaben 2.00 1 0 . S u p e r s a t AWS4 P a r t 8: 10.00 1 1 . D i s t i l l e d Water (1OOC) 2.00 12.Ritavena 5 Part C: QS 13. Perfume 1 4 . P a t l a c LA (44% S o l u t i o n ) QS QS 15.Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n ) 0.20 1 6 . G1v d a n t Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat P a r t A t o 165F w i t h m i x i n g . M i x P a r t B i n a b l e n d e r f o r 2 m i n u t e s . Add t o m i x t u r e . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . B e g i n c o o l i n g w i t h a pan o f c o l d w a t e r . Cool t o 120F. Add p e r f u m e . M i x u n t i l u n i form, a v o i d a e r a t i o n . Cool t o 9OF. A d j u s t p H w i t h P a t l a c 44% s o l u t i o n . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e 25% s o l u t i o n . Formula 11 1-207 Natural Cleanser with Ritavena 5 Inqredients: %w/w P a r t A: 1 . D i s t i l l e d Water 60.50 2. P a t l a c NAL 0.50 3 . P a t i o n i c 138C 8.00 4. P a t i o n i c 122A 2.00 5 . R i t a p e g 150 DS 0.50 6 . R i t a EGDS 3.00 7 . Methylparaben 0.20 8 . Propylparaben 0.10 9 . S u p e r s a t AWS4 2.00 P a r t B: 10. D i s t i 11e d Water ( 1 O O C ) 20.00 11 . R i t a v e n a 5 3.00 Part C: 12. Perfume QS 1 3 . P a t l a c LA (44% S o l u t i o n ) QS 14.Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n ) QS 1 5 . K a t h o n CG 0.20 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat P a r t A t o 165F w i t h m i x i n g . Premix P a r t B i n a b l e n d e r f o r 2 m i n u t e s . Add P a r t 8 t o P a r t A . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 120F. Add P a r t C . A d j u s t pH w i t h P a t l a c LA (44% S o l u t i o n ) . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n ) . F o r m u l a 11 4-9 SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : RITAVENA 5 Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

124

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W-Cleansing-Milk

Reci pe : H o s t a c e r i n DGL P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-1 0 L a u r a t e H o s t a c e r i n DGS Pol y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-4 S t e a r a t e C e t y l a1 coho1 Mineral o i 1, high v i scosi t y C e t i o l SN C e t e a r y l Isononanoate S o l u l a n 98 P o l y s o r b a t e 80 (and) C e t y l A c e t a t e (and) A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l in A l c o h o l C a r b o p o l 980 Car bome r NaOH (10% i n w a t e r ) Water P r e s e r v a t ive Perfume Procedure: I M e l t A a t 70C, t h e n add B . 111 S t i r 11 i n t o I . V A t 35C add D t o I V Formula A VI/4200

I1

IV V I

0.50%

3.00% 1 .OO% 15.00% 8.00% 2.00% 0.20%

0.80% 6 9 . 20°h q.s. 0.30%

Heat C t o 70C. S t i r u n t i l cool Homogenize i f n e c e s s a r y '

Massage-Milk Recipe: H o s t a p h a t KL 340 N T r i l a u r e t h - 4 Phosphate H o s t a c e r i n DGS P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-4 S t e a r a t e M i n e r a l oi 1 , h i g h v i scosi t y Isopropyl palmitate B e l s i l 350 D i met h i cone B C a r b o p o l 80 Carbomer C Glycerine NaOH ( 1 0 % i n w a t e r ) Water Preservat ve D Perfume

3.00%

A

Procedure: I M e l t A a t 70C, t h e n add B. I 1 1 S t i r I 1 i n t o I. V A t 35C add D t o I V . Formula A V I / I 1 1 2

SOURCE:

5.00%

35.00% 12.00% 1 .OO% 0.20% 3.00% 0.80% 39.70% q.s.

0.30%

I1 I V V I

H e a t C t o 70C. S t i r u n t i l cool. Homogeni ze i f n e c e s s a r y .

H o e c h s t : Guide F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s

Beauty Aids

125

O/W-Moisturizing-Milk Reci p e : H o s t a p h a t KL 340 N T r i l a u r e t h - 4 Phosphate H o s t a c e r i n DGS P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-4 S t e a r a t e Mineral o i l , low v i s c o s i t y Cetiol V Decyl O l e a t e Walnut o i l Isopropyl isostearate Antioxidant B C a r b o p o l 980 Carbomer C A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . E t h y l e n d i a m i n e T e t r a a c e t i c A c i d - S o d i um S a l t C i t r i c a c i d (loo/, i n w a t e r ) G1 y c e r i n e NaOH (10% i n w a t e r ) Water Preservative D C o l l a g e n KD Perfume Procedure: I M e l t A a t 7 0 C , t h e n add B . I1 H e a t C t o 70C. 111 S t i r I 1 i n t o I . IV S t i r u n t i l c o o l V A t 35C add t h e components o f D t o IV. VI Homogeni ze i f n e c e s s a r y . F o r m u l a A VI/3015

A

1 .OO% 4.00% 3.00% 4.0D% 4.00% 4.00% q.s. 0.30% 0.10% 0.25% 3.00% 1.20% 69.85% q.s. 5.00% 0.30%

O/W-Skin Milk Free of ethylenoxide

_ Recigg: _ ~ 2.00% H o s t a c e r i n DGMS Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate 8.50% Mineral o i l , low v i s c o s i t y 5.00% Isopropyl palmitate 3 . 50% Soya o i l 9,s. A n t i o x i dant 0 2 0% B C a r b o p o l 980 Carbomer 2.50% C H o s t a c e r i n LSE Sucrose L a u r a t e 0.80% NaOH ( 1 0 % i n w a t e r ) 77.20% Water q.s. Preservative 0.30% D Perfume Procedure: Heat C t o BOG. I M e l t A a t BOC, t h e n add B . I1 I11 S t i r I1 i n t o I . IV S t i r u n t i l cool. Homogenize i f n e c e s s a r y . V A t 35C add D t o IV. VI F o r m u l a A VI/1250 SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s

A

.

126

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W-Skin Milk

RetiDe: A

B

C D

1.00%

H o s t a p h a t KL 340 N T r i l a u r e t h - 4 Phosphate H o s t a c e r i n DGS Pol y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-4 S t e a r a t e M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate Cetiol V Decyl O l e a t e C a r b o p o l 980 Carbomer NaOH (10% i n w a t e r ) Water Preservative Perfume

Procedure: I M e l t A a t 70C, t h e n add B . 111 S t i r I 1 i n t o I. V A t 35C add D t o I V . Formula A V I / 1 1 0 7

4.00% 8.00% 4.00% 3.00%

0.25% 1 .OO% 78.45% q.s. 0.30%

I1 IV V

Heat C t o 70C. S t i r unti 1 cool. Homogenize i f n e c e s s a r y .

O/W-Skin Milk Recipe: H o s t a c e r i n DGL P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-1 0 L a u r a t e H o s t a c e r i n DGS Pol y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-4 S t e a r a t e M i n e r a l o i 1, low v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate Almond o i 1 Avocado o i l Wheat germ o i l Antioxydant C a r b o p o l 980 Car bomer A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . E t h y l e n e d i a m i n e T e t r a a c e t i c Acid-Sodium S a l t C i t r i c a c i d (10% i n w a t e r ) NaOH (10% i n w a t e r ) G1 y c e r i n e Water Preservative Perfume Procedure: I M e l t A a t 70C, t h e n add B . 1 1 1 S t i r I 1 i n t o I. V A t 35C add D t o I V . Formula A VI/1460

I1 IV

VI

1 .OO% 4.00% 5.00% 5.00% 7.00% 4.00% 2.00% q.s. 0 * 20%

0.10% 0.25% 0.80% 4.00% 66.35% q.s. 0.30%

Heat C t o 70C. S t i r u n t i l cool Homogeni ze if n e c e s s a r y . I

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s

BeautyAids

127

O/W-Skin Milk Recipe: 2.00% H o s t a c e r i n DGL A P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-1 0 L a u r a t e H o s t a c e r i n DGS 4.00% P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-4 S t e a r a t e Almond o i l 20.00% 6.00% Avocado o i l Wheat germ o i l 4.00% Sesame o i l 5.00% 0-Panthenol 1 .OO% Antioxydant q.s. Carbopol 980 0.20% B Carbomer 0.80% NaOH (10% i n w a t e r ) C A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . 0.10% E t h y l e n d i a m i n e T e t r a a c e t i c Acid-Sodium S a l t C i t r i c a c i d ( 10 % i n w a t e r ) 0.25% A1 1a n t o i n 0.20% Glycerine 4.00% Water 52.15% P r e s e r v a t iv e q.s. Perfume 0.30% D I M e l t A a t 70C, t h e n add B . I1 Heat C t o 70C. IV S t i r u n t i l cool. 111 S t i r I 1 i n t o I. A t 35C add D t o I V . V I Homogeni ze i f n e c e s s a r y . V O/W-Skin Milk Recipe: 1 .OO% H o s t a p h a t KW 340 N T r i c e t e a r e t h - 4 Phosphate 3.50% H o s t a c e r i n DGS P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-4 S t e a r a t e 1 .OO% Shea B u t t e r 6.00% C e t i o l SN Cetearyl Isononanoate 5.00% Walnut o i l 4.00% Almond o i l 3.00% Jojoba o i l 9,s. Antioxidant 0.15% Carbopol 980 Ca rbome r 0.30% A 1 1a n t o i n 0.10% A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . E t h y l e n d i a m i n e T e t r a a c e t i c Acid-Sodium S a l t 0.25% C i t r i c a c i d (10% i n w a t e r ) 4.00% G1 y c e r i n e 0.60% NaOH (10% i n w a t e r ) 70.80% Water q.s. P r e s e r v a t i ve 0.30% Perfume Heat C t o 70C. i M e l t A a t 70C, t h e n add 8 . I 1 S t i r u n t i l cool. 111 S t i r I 1 i n t o I . IV V A t 35C add D t o I V . V I Homogenize i f n e c e s s a r y . SOURCE: Hoechst: Formula A V I / 1 4 5 3 & F o r m u l a A V I / 1 3 0 2

128

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W-Skin Milk Manufacturing at room temperature R e c i De : A H o s t a p h a t KL 340 N T r i l a u r e t h - 4 Phosphate M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate B C a r b o p o l 980 Ca rbome r C Glycerine NaOH (10% i n w a t e r ) Water Preservative D Perfume

3.00% 10.00% 5.00% 0.45%

3.00% 1.80% 76.45% q.s. 0.30%

Procedure: M i x A and B. I 1 S t i r C i n t o I. I11 Add D t o 11. I V Homogenize i f n e c e s s a r y . Formula A VI/1101

I

O/W-Skin Milk Manufacturing at room temperature Recipe: H o s t a c e r i n DGL P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-4 L a u r a t e Isopropyl palmitate Almond o i l Wheat germ o i l C e t i o l SN Cetearyl Isononanoate A n t i oxydant B PNC 400 P o l y a c r y l ic A c i d-Sodi um S a l t C A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . E t h y l e n d i a m i n e T e t r a a c e t i c Acid-Sodium S a l t C i t r i c a c i d (10% i n w a t e r ) Water P r e s e r v a t ive D Perfume

A

2.00% 4.00% 5.00% 1 .OO% 8.00% q.s. 0.40%

0.10% 0.25% 78.95% q.s. 0.30%

Procedure: I M i x A and B. I 1 S t i r C i n t o I. I11 Add D t o 11. I V Homogeni ze i f n e c e s s a r y . Formula A VI/1461 SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s

Beauty Aids

129

Powder Cleanser (PW-102) Wei a h t % 11.5 3.5 15.0 20.0 49.7 0.2 0.1

Amisoft LS-I1 A m i s o f t CS-11 Talc Sorbi t o 1 Starch A1 1a n t o i n Paraben Procedure: M i x each i n g r e d i e n t

.

pH 5.0 f o r a l w t % s o l u t i o n

Powder Cleanser (PW-302) Weight% 23.0 7.0 10.0 20.0 39.7 0.2 0.1

A m i s o f t LS-11

A m i s o f t CS-11 Talc Sorbi t o 1 Starch A1 1 a n t o i n Par a ben Procedure: M i x each i n g r e d i e n t

.

pH 5 . 0 f o r a I w t % s o l u t i o n Powder Cleanser (PW-502) Wei q h t % 38.0 12.0 10.0 20.0 19.7 0.2 0.1

A m i s o f t LS-11 A m i s o f t CS-11 Talc Sorbi t o 1 Starch A1 1 a n t o i n Paraben

Procedure: M i x each in g r e d i e n t

~

pH 5.2 f o r a I w t % s o l u t i o n

SOURCE:

A j i n o m o t o USA I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

130

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Powder Cleanser with Amisoft (PW-102)

WtO/o 11.5 3.5 15.0 20.0 49.7 0.2 0.1

A m i s o f t LS-11 A m i s o f t CS-11 Talc Sorbi t o 1 Starch A1 1a n t o i n Paraben Procedure: M i x each i n g r e d i e n t

I

DH 5 . 0 f o r a 1 w t % s o l u t i o n Powder Cleanser with Amisoft (PW-302)

u 23.0 7.0 10.0 20.0 39.7 0.2 0.1

A m i s o f t LS-11 A m i s o f t cs-11 Talc Sorbi t o Starch A1 1a n t o n Paraben Procedure: M i x each i n g r e d i e n t

.

pH 5 . 0 f o r a 1 w t % s o l u t i o n Powder Cleanser with Amisoft (PW-502)

Wt% 38.0 12.0 10.0 20.0 19.7 0.2 0.1

A m i s o f t LS-11 A m i s o f t CS-11 Talc Sorbi t o 1 Starch A1 1a n t o i n Paraben

Procedure: M i x each i n g r e d i e n t . pH 5.2 f o r a 1 w t % s o l u t i o n

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

131

Pressed Powder Wt % 45.0 15.0 15.0 5.0 1.0 3.0 q.s.

A. Talc Nylon Powder Serici te Mica Magnesium Stearate Titanium Dioxide Pi gments B. Isostearic Acid Di m e t h y l p o l y s i 1 o x a n e

3.0 3.0

C. A m i h o p e LL

10.0

Procedure: 1. Mix (A) for 10 m i n . w i t h a speed m i x e r . 2. Add (B) to (A), and mix for 10 m i n . 3. Add (C) to #2, and mix for one m i n . 4. Sieve them, and press. Note: The pressed powder has smooth and l i g h t touch. Face Powder with Amihope LL

wt %

A. Talc q . s to 100 Lauroyl Lysine* 5-30 Magnesium Stearate 2.5 Propylparaben 0.05 Butylparaben 0.05 Pigments (Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, Ultramari nes, etc.) q.s. B. Captex 300** Fragrance

1 .0 q.s.

Charge all phase A i n g r e d i e n t s into appropriate b l e n d e r and mix. Combine phase B l i q u i d s and spray or add to b l e n d i n g phase A. After m i x i n g is complete, p u l v e r i z e w e l l . Very smooth feel w i t h good s k i n adhesion. * Amihope LL (Ajinomoto USA, Inc.) ** Capric/Caprylic T r i g l y c e r i d e s (Capitol City Products) SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA,

Inc.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

132

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pressed Powder W

A.

3.0 q.s.

3.0 3.0

8. I s o s t e a r i c Acid Dimethylpolysi loxane C.

Amihope

S

45.0 15.0 15.0 5.0 1.o

Talc N y l o n Powder Sericit e Mica Magnesium S t e a r a t e T i t a n i um D i o x i d e Pigments

10.0

LL

Procedure: 1 . M i x ( A ) f o r 1 0 m i n . w i t h a speed m i x e r . 2 . Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) , and m i x f o r 10 m i n . 3 . Add (C) t o #2, and m i x f o r one m i n . 4 . S i e v e them, and p r e s s . Note: T h i s p r e s s e d powder has smooth and l i g h t t o u c h Liquid Foundation Inqredients: (A) Stearic acid Isopropyl Myri s t a t e Liquid Petrolatum Cetanol B u t y l Parahydroxybenzoate C o l o r Pigments Amihope LL

Wt% 3.0 9.0 1.5 1. o

0.1 8.0 2.0

1.5 25.0

(B) Triethanolamine Water (C)

Propylene Glycol Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate Water

5.0 0.1 28.8

(D)

B e n t o n i t e (1%)

15.0

Preparation: 1 ) ( A ) , ( B ) , and (C) a r e mixed a t 80C. 2 ) Add ( B ) , ( C ) , t o ( A ) . 3 ) Then add (D) t o t h e f o r m e r m i x t u r e . 4 ) Cool s l o w l y t o 40C. 5 ) S t i r w i t h homomixer f o r 5 m i n u t e s . 6 ) Cool down t o 25C. Formula LQF-102

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

BeautyAids

133

Pressed Powder with Amihope-LL T-01-11-1 Phase A : Talc Lauroyl Lysine* Mica Magnesi um S t e a r a t e Propylparaben B u t y l paraben Pigments

Weight%

Q . S . t o 100 30.00 5.00

3.00 0.05 0.05 Q.S.

Phase 6 : Capric/Capryl i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s Perfume

3.00 Q.S.

Pressed Powder with Amihope-LL T-01-11-1 Phase A: Talc Lauroyl Lysine* Mica Magnesium S t e a r a t e Propylparaben Butylparaben Pigments Phase 6: Capric/Caprylic Triglycerides Perfume

Q.S.

Beinh-tl".

t o 100 10.00 5.00 3.00 0.05 0.05 Q.S. 3.00

Q.S.

Manufacturing Procedure: Charge Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a p p r o p r i a t e b l e n d e r ( t u m b l e b l e n d e r , r i b b o n b l e n d e r , e t c . ) and m i x . Combine Phase B l i q u i d s and s p r a y ( w i t h s p r a y n o z z l e o r add t o t h e m i x , d e p e n d i n g on equipment b e i n g u s e d ) . A f t e r complete m i x i n g , p u l v e r i z e w e l l . Press i n t o pans. T h i s f o r m u l a i s v e r y smooth and h a s good s k i n a d h e s i o n . * A m i hope-LL b y Aj inomoto

SOURCE: A j i n o r n o t o USA, I n c . : F o r m u l a T-01-11-1

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

134

Pressed Powder Blusher with Amihope LL A.

Talc Mica (Coated)* Lauroyl Lysine** Propylparaben B u t y l paraben P i g m e n t s (FD&C, D&C, I r o n O x i d e s , T i t a n 1 urn D i o x i d e ) Magnesi um S t e a r a t e

We1 q h t % q . s . t o 100 20.00 10.00 0.05 0.05 Ultrarnarines, q.s

2.00

B . Dimethicone C a p t e x 300*** Perfume

2.50 1 .50 q.s

Pressed Powder Blusher with Amihope LL A.

B.

Talc Mica (Coated)* Lauroyl Lysine** Propylparaben Butylparaben P i g m e n t s (FD&C, D & C , T i t a n 1 um D i 0x1 d e )

q.s.

I r o n Oxides,

We1&htob t o 100 20.00 40.00 0.05 0.05

Ultramarines, 4.s.

Dimethicone Captex 3 0 0 * * * Perfume

2.50 1 .50 4.s.

Charge phase A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a p p r o p r i a t e b l e n d e r and m i x . Combine phase B and s p r a y o r a d d t o b l e n d i n g phase A . A f t e r m i x i n g i s c o m p l e t e , p u l v e r i z e w e l l . P r e s s i n t o p a n s . V e r y smooth t o u c h a n d good s k i n a d h e s i o n . Good p r e s s i ng c h a r a c t e r ?s t i c s . Durable cake.

* **

***

M i c a ( C o a t e d ) may be s e n s i t i v e t o g r i n d i n g . I f s o , do n o t p u l v e r i z e Mica (Coated) t h r o u g h f i n e screen. Amihope LL ( A j i n o m o t o C o . , I n c . ) Capric/Caprylic T r i g l y c e r i d e s (Capital C i t y Products, I n c . )

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U S A ,

I n c . : Suggested Formulations

BeautyAids

135

Pressed Powder Eye Shadow (Pearlescent Type) Inqredients: ( 1 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF g r a d e ) (2) Mearlin-AC ( 3 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC ( 4 ) Zinc S t e a r a t e ( f i n e ground) ( 5 ) Magnesium C a r b o n a t e (6) Acetol ( 7 ) P o l y s o r b a t e 20 ( 8 ) D e i o n i z e d Water Preservative

% by Weiaht 5.0 35.0 29.0 8.0 1. o 3.0 9.0 10.0 q.s.

Procedure: D r y m i x (I), ( 2 ) , ( 3 ) , ( 4 ) , and ( 5 ) . I n s e p a r a t e t a n k , t h o r o u g h l y m i x ( 6 ) , (7), and ( 8 ) . Then s l o w l y add t h i s m i x t u r e t o t h e d r y m i x . Screen t h r o u g h a No. 16 s i e v e and p r e s s . F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used. Face Mask Ingredients: ( 1 ) D e i o n i z e d Water ( 2 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF g r a d e ) ( 3 ) K a o l i n USP (4) Isopropyl Alcohol ( 5 ) L a n o l i n (PEG 50) ( 6 ) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Emerest 2000) ( 7 ) D i m e t h i c o n e (DOW C o r n i n g 200) ( 8 ) Phenoxyethanol (Emmenessence) ( 9 ) M e t h y l Paraben (1 0 ) P r o p y l Paraben

% by Wei& 36.7 8.0 40.0 10.0 0.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 0.2 0.1

Procedure: Add ( 2 ) t o ( 1 ) and h e a t t o 90CI add ( 9 ) and ( 1 0 ) u n t 1 d i s s o l v e d . Add ( 5 ) , ( 6 ) , ( 7 ) , and ( 8 ) . Cool and add ( 4 ) w i t h good m i x i n g u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . A d d ( 3 ) and c o n t i n u e h i g h peed mixing u n t i l completely uniform. F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s of t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used. Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s s h o u l d b e used when h a n d l i n g flammable i n g r e d i e n t s .

SOURCE:

Kaopolite, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

136

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Re-Vital Facial Toner

p/,w/w S o l u l a n 98 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 80 ( a n d ) C e t y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol) 3.00 Fragrance 0.20 SD A l c o h o l 40 30.00 Dei o n i zed Water 61 . 1 0 0.20 A1 1a n t o i n Aqua-Tein C ( C o l l a g e n Amino Ac ds ( a n d ) Acetamide MEA) 5.00 P r o - T e i n ES-20 ( E t h y l E s t e r o f H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ) 0.50 The above f o r m u l a may be m o d i f ed i n t h e f o l l o w i n g ways: 1 . I n c r e a s e SD A l c o h o l f o r deeper c l e a n s i n g , more d r y i n g e f f e c t . 2 . By a d d i t i o n o f h e r b a l e x t r a c t s such as Rose Water, chamomile ( s o o t h i n g ) ( 4 ) , soap b a r k e x t r a c t ( a s t r i n g e n t ) ( 3 ) . 3 . By a d d i t i o n o f e s s e n t i a l o i l s such as m e n t h o l & e u c a l y p t u s ( 3 ) f o r o d o r and c o o l i n g e f f e c t , g i n g e r & lemon ( 3 ) f o r o d o r and facial feel. Pre-mix S o l u l a n 98 & F r a g r a n c e . Add SD A l c o h o l 40 t o t h e m i x t u r e . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . M i x u n t i l each i s d i s s o l v e d . M i l d f a c i a l t o n e r w h i c h c l e a n s and t i g h t e n s , b u t l e a v e s t h e s k i n w i t h a h e a l t h y , s o f t a f t e r - f e e l . Aqua-Tein C , a s u p e r b humectant, adds s k i n s o f t e n i n g and s o o t h i n g p r o p e r t i e s , w h i l e r e d u c i n g t h e h a r s h n e s s o f t h e a l c o h o l . P r o - T e i n ES-20, a c a t i o n i c e s t e r , l e a v e s a p r o t e c t i v e , smooth f i l m and s e r v e s as an a n t i - i r r i t a n t . Formula #ST-3251 Sun-Rise Fresh Cleansing Gel A.

D e i o n i z e d Water Sodium C14-16 O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e Monami d 150-LW (Laurami de DEA)

Cocoamphocarboxyglycinate

Bw/w 27.50 40.00 3.50 6.00

S u p r o - T e i n V (TEA-Cocoyl H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ( a n d ) 10.00 Sorbi t o 1 ) Amino S i l k SF ( S i l k Amino A c i d s ) 3.00 European E l a s t i n - 3 0 ( H y d r o l y z e d E l a s t i n ) 3.00 B . Ammonium C h l o r i d e 2.00 D e i o n i z e d Water 5.00 Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e s , Color q.s. C i t r i c Acid q . s . t o pH=6.5 1 . Warm Phase A t o 50C. M i x u n t i l m e l t e d & homogeneous. 2 . A d j u s t pH w h i l e warm t o p H = 6 . 5 . 3 . P r e d i s s o l v e NH4C1 i n w a t e r . Add c a r e f u l l y t o a v o i d a i r entrapment A m i l d c l e a n s i n g g e l , n o n - d r y i n g t o t h e s k i n . Smoothes and s o f t e n s s k i n w h i l e r e m o v i n g excess s k i n o i l and desquamating s k i n c e l l s . To u s e - m o i s t e n hands, p o u r i n t o p a l m and work up i n t o a creamy l u x u r i o u s l a t h e r . Massage s k i n i n a c i r c u l a r m o t i o n w i t h t h e m o i s t u r e - l a d e n foam, t h e n r i n s e t h o r o u g h l y and d r y . The a f t e r - f e e l o f t h e s k i n i s a l l s o f t n e s s and s h e e r d e l i g h t . Formula #SW-3007 I

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

BeautyAids

137

Rouge Compact Powder Lanette 0 Eutanol G E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% Magnesi um s t e a r a t e Kaol i n Rice starch Magnesi um c a r b o n a t e Talc

Parts 6.75 3.75 4.50 2.50 17.00 5.00 2.00 57.00

T i t a n i um d i o x i d e Pigment c o l o r s

5.00 11.50

N o t e : T h i s f a t / p i g m e n t m i x t u r e i s compressed t o f o r m s o - c a l l e d cakes. The r o u g e i s a p p l i e d b y means o f a p e n c i l o r a l i t t l e b r u s h . By v a r y i n g t h e c o l o r a n t s a c c o r d i n g t o t h e c a k e make-up, t h i s r o u g e f o r m u l a c a n b e m o d i f i e d f o r u s e a s eye shadow, f a c e powder, e t c . F o r m u l a No. P81-01 Rouge Stick C u t i n a LM Eutanol G Pigment c o o r s C o s m e t i c T t a n i u m c o l o r s 3 0 0 309 F o r m u l a No P42-01

Parts 85.0 15.0 3.0 2.0

Rouge Stick with Pearly Gloss C u t i n a LM Eutanol G Pigment c o l o r s T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t e r MP 115 F o r m u l a No. P42-02

Parts 72.0 18.0 4.0 6.0

Rouge Stick with Pearly Gloss C u t i n a LM Eutanol G Pigment c o l o r s T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t e r MP 115 F o r m u l a No. P42-03 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

Parts 73.0 18.0 3.0 15.0

138

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sand Beige Oil-Free Makeup %w/W

Phase A : D i s t i 11e d w a t e r Propylene g l y c o l PEG 200 s t e a r a t e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% T r i s o d i um EDTA Veegum magnesium aluminum s i l i c a t e Sodium c a r b o x y m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e gum Phase B : D i s t i l l e d water Eastman AQ t r e a t e d Eastman AQ t r e a t e d Eastman AQ t r e a t e d Eastman AQ t r e a t e d

30.00 8-00

1 .oo 0.90 0.20 1.oo 0.25

30.85

0.40

pigment-red pigment-yellow pigment-black pigment-white

0.80 0.16 6.64

Phase C : Talc DC3225C c y c l o m e t h i c o n e and d i m e t h i c o n e c o p o l y o l Stearic acid Polawax e m u l s i f y i n g wax, NF M y v e r o l 18-06 d i s t i l l e d m o n o g l y c e r i d e Tween 80 p o l y s o r b a t e 60

5.00

9-00 1.80 1 .oo 2.00 1-00

Preserve as necessary. Procedure: Phase A : 1 . S l o w l y s p r i n k l e Veegum i n t o w a t e r w h i l e m i x n g 2. Continue mixing u n t i l uniform. 3 . S l o w l y s p r i n k l e sodium c a r b o x y m e t h y l c e l l u ose n t o w a t e r while mixing. 4. Continue m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . 5 . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f ( A ) and m i x we 1 . Phase B : 1 . H e a t w a t e r t o 85C, add p i g m e n t s and m i x u n t i l w e l l d i s p e r s e d . 2 . Add t o P a r t A and h e a t combined phases t o 70C. Phase C : 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t w i t h m i x i n g t o 70C. 2 . A t 70C, add t o P a r t s A and 8 w i t h m i x i n g . 3 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .

.

SOURCE: Eastman Chemical Co.:

F o r m u l a t i o n X2113Q-087

Beauty Aids

139

Silk and Elastin Facial Firming Gel

%w/w D e i o n i z e d Water P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l European E l a s t i n - 1 0 ( H y d r o l y z e d E l a s t i n ) Carbomer 940 - 2% Aq, S o l n . D i s o d i um EDTA B. T r i e t h a n o l ami ne-99% C. S i l k Pro-Tein (Hydrolyzed S i l k ) Camomile E x t r a c t B i o c a r e SA (Albumen and H y a l u r o n i c A c i d and D e x t r a n Sulfate) Preservatives FD&C Y e l l o w # 5 ( I f d e s i r e d )

A.

51.60 5.00 0.50 40.00 0.20 0.50 2.00 0.10 0.10 q.s. 9.53.

P r o p e r t ies : R e v i v e s , smoothes and m o i s t u r i z e s t i r e d c o m p l e x i o n s . M o i s t , s u p p l e s k i n i s more e l a s t i c and y o u t h f u l l o o k i n g . O i l - f r e e f o r m u l a r e h y d r a t e s t h e s k i n w i t h v i t a l e l a s t i n and s i l k p r o t e i n s and H y a l u r o n i c A c i d . Procedure: Add Phase B t o Phase A . M i x u n t i l g e l l e d and c l e a r . M i x s l o w l y t o a v o i d a i r e n t r a p m e n t . Add Phase C . M i x t o i n c o r p o r a t e . Formula #SK-2050 Honey & Wheat Hydrating Facial/Body Gel

%w/w Dei o n i zed Water Wheat-Tein NL ( H y d r o l y z e d Wheat P r o t e i n ) Honey Amphosol CA (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) S i p o n ESY (Sodium L a u r e t h - 1 S u l f a t e Monamate CPA-40 ( D i s o d i um Cocami do MI PA-Su1 f o succinate) Monamate 71 6 (Laurami de DEA) Kessco PEG 6000 D i s t e a r a t e (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) Honey F r a g r a n c e Q u a t e r n i urn-1 5 Amber C o l o r

62.90 3.00 1 .oo 5.00 20.00 5.00 2.00 0.50 0.30 0.30 q.s.

Procedure: Heat phase A w i t h m i x i n g t o 70C. M i x u n t i l PEG-150 DS i s m e l t e d and homogeneous. M i x and c o o l t o 50C. Add 8 . M i x t o incorporate. P r o p e r t ies : Honey and wheat p r o t e i n a r e i n c o r p r a t e d i n t h i s f o r m u l a t o m o i s t u r i z e and h y d r a t e t h e s k i n . T h i s b a t h g e l i s g e n t l e enough t o use as a f a c i a l a n d / o r body wash. O p a c i f y i n g / p e a r l i n g a g e n t s can be added f o r a p e a r l e s c e n t l o o k . Formula #SW-3008

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

140

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin Conditioning Treatment (Formula 90-0502) % BY Weight Water Phase: 0.50 H i - C a r e 1000 2.00 Glycerine 87.40 Water 3.50 A1 kamuls GMS O i l Phase: 1.60 Cetyl Alcohol NF 1.50 Light Mineral O i l Dermalcare N I 1.00 A1 kamul s MM/M 0.50 S t e a r i c A c i d TP 2.00 F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e P.S. B l e n d i n q P r o c e d u r e : Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l f o l l o w e d by t h e G l y c e r i n e . W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n H i - C a r e 1000. Heat w a t e r s y s t e m t o 70-75C. S l o w l y b l e n d A l k a muls GMS i n t o h e a t e d w a t e r b a s e . M a i n t a i n 70-75C t e m p e r a t u r e . I n a s e p a r a t e m i x i n g v e s s e l , combine O i l Phase i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 70-75C u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y m o l t e n . W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d h e a t e d O i l Phase i n t o h e a t e d Water Phase. Once system i s c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m , c o o l t o 40-45C w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n and add c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , Dye(s) and P r e s e r v a t ive The f o r m u l a t i o n w i l l r e a c h i t s f i n a l c o n s i s t e n c y , a s o f t l o t i o n , a f t e r s t a n d i n g 24 t o 48 h o u r s .

.

Skin Conditioning Bath & Shower Gel (Formula 91-1110) % B y Weight Jaguar C-162 0.3 M i r a c a r e MPC 40.0 C i t r i c Acid P.S. Fragrance, Dye(s), P r e s e r v a t i v e P.S. Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 0 5 - 0 60 Water 59.3 B l e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , d i s p e r s e J a g u a r C-162 i n room t e m p e r a t u r e w a t e r . Once s y s t e m i s u n i f o r m , h e a t w a t e r system t o 35-40C and t h e n a d j u s t p H t o 5 . 0 - 6 . 0 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d as needed. S l o w l y b l e n d i n M i r a c a r e MPC and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . A g a i n , a d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n pH t o 5 . 0 - 6 . 0 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d as needed. Add c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e and t h e n a d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 14,00018,000 c p s (No. 5 S p i n d l e @ 10 RPM-25C) w i t h t h e j u d i c i o u s a d d i t i o n o f Sodium C h l o r i d e as needed. Typical Formulation Properties: Appearance @ 25C: C1 e a r , V i scous L i q u i d 14,000-18,000 CPS V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 5.0-6.0 pH : 15-17 % Non V o l a t i l e s : I

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S D e c i a l t i e s :

Formulas

Beauty Aids

141

Skin Emulsion, Matting O/W as Foam Aerosol

u

I Emulgade F 1.oo Emulgade F Spec. I .oo Cetiol V 1.oo S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L 2SM 3.00 Wool f a t , anhydrous 0.50 I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 1.oo Boric acid 0.25 Triethanolamine 0.25 Water 92.00 F i l l i n g : 92 p a r t s e m u l s i o n 8 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t 12/114 ( 4 0 : 6 0 ) N o t e : Due t o t h e b o r i c a c i d c o n t e n t , t h e p a c k a g i n g o f t h e f i n i s h e d p r e p a r a t i o n must b e a r t h e i n s c r i p t i o n "Not t o b e used f o r baby c a r e " i n a c c o r d a n c e w i t h t h e German cosmetics l e g i a l a t i o n . Formula No. A71-01 Nutritive Emulsion, Fat O/W as Foam Aerosol Emulgade F Eutanol G Vegetable o i l I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water I11 Cremogen w i t c h h a z e l e x t r a c t F i l i n g : 92 p a r t s e m u l s i o n 8 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t 12/114 ( 4 0 : 6 0 ) P r e p a r a t i o n : Phase I11 i s added t o t h e r e s u l t i n g e m u l s i o n Formula No. A71-02 I

w

4.0 15.0 15.0 10.0 46.0 10.0

a t 40C.

Foaming Cucumber Juice Emulsion O/W Aerosol-Packed

%g-& 4.0 C u t i n a MD 1.5 E u m u l g i n B1 Eumulgin 82 1.5 4.0 Cetiol V 5.0 M y r i t o l 318 81 . O II Water I11 E x t r a p o n cucumber s p e c . 3.0 F i l l i n g : 92 p a r t s e m u l s i o n 8 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t 12/114 ( 4 0 : 6 0 ) P r e p a r a t i o n : Phase 111 i s added t o t h e r e s u l t i n g e m u l s i o n a t a p p r o x . 40C. Formula No. A71-03 I

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

142

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin Emulsion O/W with Placenta Extract

%w/w

I

C u t i n a MD Eumulgin 81 Eumulgin 82 Eutanol G M y r i t o l 318 P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous Placenta l i q u i d , o i l - s o l u b l e

I I Water

6.0 1.5 1.5 10.0 5.0 5.0 2.5 68.5

Formula No. A22-01 Skin Emulsion O/W with Vitamin

%w/w I

I1

C u t i n a MD L a n e t t e 16 Eumulgin B1 Eumulgin 82 C e t i o l LC Cetiol S V i t a p l a n t CLR,

o i 1- s o l u b l e

Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water

I I I V i t a p l a n t CLR, w a t e r - s o l u b l e

5.0 2.0 1.5 1.5 12.0 4.0 2.0 5.0 65.0 2.0

Formula No. A22-02 Skin Emulsion O/W

%w/w I

C u t i n a CBS Forlanit E Eumulgin B1 Cetiol V Paraffin oil,

7.00 0.50 2.00 5.00 high viscous

I1 Triethanolamine Water Formula No. A21-14

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formul ae

5.00 0.09 80.41

Beauty Aids

143

Skin Emulsion O/W With Collagen

%w/w

I

C u t i n a MD E u m u l g i n B1 E u m u l g i n 82 Cetiol V M y r i t o l 318 Isopropyl palmitate

9.0 1.5 1.5 10.0 5.0 5.0

I1

l I 2 - p r o p y 1 ene g l y c o l Water

5.0 58.0

5.0

I11 Collagen

N o t e : pH s e t t i n g 3 . 7 t o 6 . 5 Preparation: Phase I11 i s added t o t h e r e s u l t i n g e m u l s i o n a t a p p r o x . 35C Formula No. A22-03 Cucumber Juice Emulsion O/W

I

%w/w C u t i n a MD E u m u l g i n B1 Eutanol G M y r i t o l 318

8.0 3.0 3.0 5.0

I 1 Water

78.0

I11 E x t r a p o n cucumber s p e c .

3.0

Preparation: Phase I11 i s added t o t h e r e s u l t i n g e m u l s i o n a t 40C. F o r m u l a No. A22-04 Herbal Emulsion O/W

%w/w I C u t i n a MD E u m u l g i n 81 E u m u l g i n 82 C e t i o l LC Isopropyl Myristate A r n i c a o i l CLR C a l e n d u l a o i l CLR I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water F o r m u l a No. A22-05

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

8.0 1.5 1.5 8.0 4.0 3.0 3.0

5.0 66.0

144

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin Gel T h i s gel i s a l i g h t , greaseless m o i s t u r i z e r which e x h i b i t s s p a r k l i n g c l a r i t y and q u i c k a p p l i c a t i o n . Ingredient: Weight% Function P a r t A: Dei o n i zed Water 83.30 D i 1u e n t Glycerin 2.50 Humectant Hydrogenated S t a r c h H y d r o l y s a t e 2.50 Humectant (70%) (1) Methylparaben 0.10 Preservative C a r b o p o l 980 ( 2 ) 0.60 Gellant P a r t 8: 10.00 Diluent Dei o n i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 0.50 Neutralizing Agent DMDM H y d a n t o i n ( 3 ) 0.30 Preservative PVP (K30) 0.10 Conditioner D i s o d i um EDTA 0.05 Gel P r o t e c t a n t ( 1 ) H y s t a r CG ( L o n z a ) ( 2 ) Carbomer ( B F G o o d r i c h ) (3) G l y d a n t ( L o n z a ) P r e p a r a t i on : 1. Using a g i t a t i o n , d i s s o l v e methylparaben i n a m i x t u r e o f t h e f i r s t t h r e e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . When s o l u t i o n i s homogeneous, s l o w l y s i f t C a r b o p o l 980 i n t o t h e v o r t e x o f t h e a g i t a t e d s o l u t i o n . When r e s i n i s d i s p e r s e d , r e d u c e a g i t a t i o n and m i x u n t i l a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n i s o b t a i n e d . 2 . I n a separate vessel, blend Part B ingredients. Mix u n t i l homogeneous. 3 . U s i n g p a d d l e - t y p e a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x t o produce a c l e a r g e l . F o r m u l a COO19 Skin Gel T h i s g e l i s a l i g h t , greaseless m o i s t u r i z e r which e x h i b i t s s p a r k l i n g c l a r i t y and q u i c k a p p l i c a t i o n . Weiaht% Function Inqredient: P a r t A: D i 1u e n t 83.30 D e i o n i zed Water Humectant 5.00 G1y c e r i n Preservative 0.10 Methylparaben Gel 1a n t 0.60 C a r b o p o l 980 ( 1 Part 8: D i 1u e n t 10.00 D e i o n i z e d Water N e u t r a l iz i ng 0.50 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) Agent P r e s e r v a t iv e 0.30 DMDM H y d a n t o i n 2 ) Conditioner 0.10 PVP (K30) Gel P r o t e c t a n t 0.05 D i s o d i um EDTA Gel P r o t e c t a n t 0.05 Benzophenone-4 Colorant q.s. Color ( 1 ) Carbomer (BFGoodri c h ) ( 2 ) G l y d a n t (Lonza) F o r m u l a COO32 SOURCE: BF G o o d r i c h : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Ai&

145

Skin Hydrating Moisture Trap

%w/w A.

D e i o n i z e d Water 43.30 Sorbitol-70% 2.00 Glycerin 2.00 C a r b o p o l 934, 2% Aq. S o l n . (Carbomer 934) 35.00 Methylparaben 0.30 Propylparaben 0.15 T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 0.05 C o l l a g e n H y d r o l y z a t e Cosmetic 55 ( H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ) 2 . 0 0

B. Acetulan ( C e t y l Acetate (and) A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n A1 coho1 ) Sesame O i l Maywax P ( E m u l s i f y i n g Wax, N . F . ) A r l a c e l 165 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) P r o t o - L a n E* Lanol i n Alcohol C.

Triethanolamine-99%

5.00 4.00 2.50 1.00 1.50 0.50 0.70

* ( L e c i t h i n ( a n d ) B u t y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Cocoyl H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ( a n d ) O l e o y l S a r c o s i n e ( a n d ) Sesame O i l ( a n d ) Lanolin Alcohol) Procedure: 1 . Heat Phases A and B s e p a r a t e l y t o 70C. 2 . Add Phase A t o Phase B a t 70C w i t h adequate m i x i n g . 3 . Add Phase C i m m m e d i a t e l y . M i x t o i n c o r p o r a t e . 4 . M i x and c o o l t o 35C. P r o p e r t i 8s : A l i g h t , creamy, n i c e l o o k i n g and s t a b l e e m u l s i o n . H i g h l y e m o l l i e n t , b u t n o t g r e a s y . A good a l l - a r o u n d hand and f a c e l o t i o n . P r o t o - L a n 8 i s an e x c e l l e n t n o n - g r e a s y , p r o t e c t i v e e m o l l i e n t , based on n a t u r a l l y o c c u r r i n g e s s e n t i a l f a t t y a c i d s and l i p o - p r o t e i n s . Maywax P i s an e f f i c i e n t , n o n - i o n i c s e l f e m u l s i f y i n g wax. C o l l a g e n H y d r o l y z a t e Cosmetic 55 i s a nono c c l u s i v e f i l m f o r m e r w h i c h m o i s t u r i z e s and p r o t e c t s t h e s k i n .

SOURCE: Maybrook Inc.: F o r m u l a #SK-2023

146

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin Oil

%w/w

C e t i o l o r E u t a n o l G318 M y r i t o l 318 P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous Formula No. A31-01

30.0 30.0 40.0

Skin Oil

%w/w

C e t i o l LC M y r i t o l 318 Isopropyl Palmitate Paraffin o i l , high viscous Formula N o . A31-02

25.0 30.0 25.0 20.0

Skin Oil

%w/w C e t i o l LC M y r i t o l 318 Isopropyl Palmitate O i l o f St. J o h n ' s w o r t CLR C a r r o t o i l CLR F o r m u l a N o . A31-03

20.0 45.0 30.0 3.0 2.0

Skin Care Oil Eutanol G M y r i t o l 318 V i tami n o i 1 Biocorno O i l o f S t . J o h n ' s w o r t CLR C a r r o t o i l CLR Formula N o . A31-04

%w/w 40.0 35.0 20.0 4.0 1.0

Functional Skin Oil Eutanol G Isopropyl Myri s t a t e M y r i t o l 318 Epidermin i n o i l Wheat germ o i l s p e c . Formula N o . A31-05

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

%w/w 40.0 30.0 27.0 0.5 2.5

BeautyAids

147

Sparkling Skin Moisturizing Fluid With Microcapsules T h i s i s a f l u i d c o n t a i n i n g a t t r a c t i v e m o i s t u r i z i n g beads i n a l i g h t , g r e a s e l e s s aqueous b a s e w h i c h e x h i b i t s s p a r k l i n g c l a r i t y and smooth f e e l . Ingredient: Part A: Dei o n i zed Water G1 y c e r i n Hydrogenated S t a r c h H y d r o l y s a t e (70%) ( 1 ) Methylparaben Carbopol 981 ( 2 )

Wei a h t %

P a r t B: Dei o n i zed Water Sodium H y d r o x y r n e t h y l G l y c i n a t e ( 3 ) PVP (K30) D i s o d i um EDTA Benzophenone-4

83.35

D i 1u e n t

2.50

Humectant

2.50 0.10 0.25

Humectant Preservative Gellant

10.00 0.30 0.10

0.05 0.05

P a r t C: M i n e r a l O i l i n G e l a t i n M i c r o c a p s u l e s (4) 0 . 8 0 (1) (2) (3) (4)

Function

D i 1u e n t N e u t r a l iz i n g Agent/Preservative Conditioner Gel P r o t e c t a n t Gel P r o t e c t a n t Moisturizing Agent

H y s t a r CG ( L o n z a ) Carbomer ( B F G o o d r i c h ) S u t t o c i d e A ( S u t t o n Labs) Red and B l u e N u g g e t s ( R o n a l d T . Dodge C o . )

Preoaration: 1. U s i n g a g i t a t i o n , d i s s o l v e methylparaben i n a m i x t u r e o f t h e f i r s t t h r e e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . When s o l u t i o n i s homogeneous, s l o w l y s i f t C a r b o p o l 981 i n t o t h e v o r t e x o f t h e a a i t a t e d s o l u t i o n . When r e s i n i s d i s p e r s e d , r e d u c e a g i t a t i o n and m i x u n t i l a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n i s o b t a i n e d . 2. I n a separate vessel, b l e n d P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . Mix u n t i l homogeneous. 3 . U s i n g p a d d l e - t y p e a g i t a t i o n add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x t o produce a c l e a r f l u i d . 4 . U s i n g p a d d l e - t y p e a g i t a t i o n add P a r t C t o n e u t r a l i z e d f l u i d u n t i l m i c r o c a p s u l e s a r e we1 d i s p e r s e d .

SOURCE:

BF G o o d r i c h Co.:

Formu a COO35

148

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sports Gel Colourless gel with a slightly greasy effect M a t e r i a l /CTFA-Index: A: Mineral O i l , high viscosity W a c k e r - B e l s i l SM 6 0 1 B / S t e a r y l M e t h i c o n e

50.00% 3.00

8 : Camphor Methyl S a l i c y l a t e

5.00 5.00

C: Wacker HDK H l d / S i l i c a

7-00

D: Wacker-Belsil

DM 0 . 6 5 / D i m e t h i c o n e

30.00

Colours

q.s.

Heat A t o a p p r o x . 60C, m i x B i n t o A . Add C,

work D i n t o ABC.

Formul a t i on 1291 / 2 A H Body Powder Material/CTFA-Index: A : B e l s i 1 BNP/Boron N i t r i d e HDK N 2O/Si 1 i c a HDK H 2 0 / S i l i c a Talc Starch Kaol i n Magnesi um S t e a r a t e Bentone 3 8 / Q u a t e r n i u m - 1 8 H e c t o r i t e 8:

Isopropyl Myristate Perfume P i grnents

Mix A w e l l ,

2.50 2.50 4.00 30.20 10.00 1 .oo 1 .oo

6.00 1 .BO q.s.

add B i n p o r t i o n s , homogenize t h o r o u g h l y .

F o r m u l a t i o n 1056 AH

SOURCE:

5.00%

Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

149

Sprayable-Moisturizer T h i s n o v e l m o i s t u r i z e r i s a pumpable p r o d u c t w h i c h p r o v i d e s a f i n e s p r a y f o r q u i c k and easy a p p l i c a t i o n . I t i s an i d e a l a f t e r b a t h a l t e r n a t i v e t o g r e a s y baby o i l .

I n R r e d i en t ( C T F A L P a r t A: Dei on1 z e d Water Glycerin DMDM H y d a n t o i n ( 1 ) Methylparaben Propylparaben

We 1 3 n_tOh

Part 8: Mineral O i l ( 2 ) Octyldodecyl Stearoylstearate (3) Oleth-10 ( 4 ) Pemulen TR-2

(5)

F u n c t j gn

79.83 6.00 0.30 0.10 0.05

D i 1uent Humectant Preservative P r e s e r v a t i ve Preservative

10.00 3.00 0.40

Moisture B a r r i e r E m o l l ie n t P a r t i c l e Size Reduction Emulsifier/ S t a b i 1 iz e r

0.12

P a r t C: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

0.10

Neutralizing Agent

Part D: D i s o d i um EDTA

0.10

Chel a t i ng Agent and V i s c o s i t y Adjustment

( 1 ) Glydant (Lonza) ( 2 ) Drakeol 7 (Penreco) ( 3 ) C e r a p h y l 847 (Van Dyk) ( 4 ) B r i j 9 6 (IC1 A m e r i c a s ) (5) A c r y l a t e s / C l O - 3 0 A l k y l A c r y l a t e C r o s s p o l y r n e r ( 8 F G o o d r i c h ) Preparation: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e f o r m u l a t i o n . Parabens may b e p r e d i s p e r s e d i n g l y c e r i n t o a c c e l e r a t e d i s s o l u t i o n . Mix u n t i l parabens have d i s s o l v e d . 2 . Combine P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . M i x t o d i s r u p t a n y s o f t a g g l o m e r a t e s o f Pemulen. 3 . W i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x f o r 10-15 m i n u t e s t o a l l o w r e s i n t o s w e l l . Add P a r t C and u s e v i g o r o u s m i x i n g t o p r o d u c e a smooth, w h i t e e m u l s i o n . Add P a r t D i n c r e m e n t a l l y u n t i l a v i s c o s i t y o f 600-900 c p s i s obtained.

SOURCE:

B F G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a PO010

150

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sprayable Moisturizing Milk T h i s l i g h t , m i l k y white, low v i s c o s i t y emulsion d e l i v e r s a f i n e m i s t f r o m a pump s p r a y e r a n d p r o v i d e s a s i l k y f e e l i n g t o the skin. Ingredient: Part A: Dei o n i zed Water NaOH (18%)

Weight%

P a r t B: Propylene Glycol Isoceteth-3 Acetate (1) Pemulen TR-2 ( 2 ) Glycerol Triisostearate (3) Isostearyl Isostearate (4) Cyclomethicone (5) Fragrance (6) Part C: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l Urea (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben ( 7 )

Function

70.45 0.15

D i 1u e n t N e u t r a l i z i ng Agent

10.00 0.15 4.00 4.00 10.00 0.20

Humectant Emulsifier Emollient Emol 1 ie n t Lubricant

1.00

Preservative

0.05

C h e l a t i n g Agent

P a r t D:

D i s o d i um EDTA

( 1 ) H e t e s t e r PHA; B e r n e l Chemical Co., I n c . ( 2 ) A c r y l a t e s / C l O - 3 0 A1 k y l A c r y l a t e C r o s s p o l y m e r ; ( 3 ) P r i s o r i n e GTIS; Unichema I n t e r n a t i o n a l ( 4 ) P r i s o r i n e I S I S ; Unichema I n t e r n a t i o n a l ( 5 ) Dow C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d ; Dow C o r n i n g C o r p . ( 6 ) N o v i l l e #27986; N o v i l l e , I n c . ( 7 ) Germaben 1 1 - E ; S u t t o n L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c .

BFGoodri c h

Procedure: 1 . Combine P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s a t room t e m p e r a t u r e i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a i n t h e f i n a l p r o d u c t , b r e a k i n g up any agglomerated p a r t i c l e s . 2 . Add P a r t A t o P a r t B and m i x u s i n g r a p i d a g i t a t i o n f o r 15 m i n u t e s . 3 . Add P a r t C t o t h e e m u l s i o n . 4 . Use P a r t D t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y downward t o a' r a n g e o f 600 c p s t o 1000 c p s . P r o p e r t ie s : Appearance: M i l k y W h i t e V i s c o s i t y : 910 c p s * pH: 6 . 0 S t a b i l i t y : No s e p a r a t i o n - 1 0 C t o 25C F i v e c y c l e s 35 Days (50C) v i s c o s i t y 840 c p s * * B r o o k f i e l d RVT 20 rpm s p i n d l e # 2

SOURCE: BF G o o d r i c h Co.:

F o r m u l a PO041

BeautyAids

151

Stick for Skin Impurities

s/aw/w 5.0 L a n e t t e 16 C u t i n a BW 30.0 C u t i n a CP 20.0 Eutanol G 25.0 P a r a f f i n o i 1, h i g h v i s c o u s 9.2 Powder c o l o r a n t 3.0 Menthol 0.3 Sulfur, precipitated 2.0 Bactericide 0.5 Zinc oxide 5.0 P r e p a r a t i on : The f a t t y s u b s t a n c e s a r e m e l t e d on t h e w a t e r b a t h and m e n t h o l i s d i s s o l v e d i n t h e f a t m e l t . Z i n c o x i d e , s u l f u r and powder c o l o r a n t a r e t h e n added. A t a t e m p e r a t u r e o f a p p r o x . 40C, t h e compound i s r o l l e d s e v e r a l t i m e s , m e l t e d a g a i n and c a s t i n m o u l d s . I t i s advantageous t o c o o l t h e moulds s l i g h t l y . F o r m u l a N o . C41-01

Stick for Skin Impurities

46w/w C d t i n a LM C e t i o l LC Eutanol G Menthol Bactericide Sulfur, precipitated Zinc oxide Powder c o l o r a n t F o r m u l a N o . C41-02

70.2

8.0 8.0 0.3 0.5 2.0 5.0 6.0

Emulsion, Liquid, for Skin Impurities O/W

%W!L!_W

Lanette N/SX 3.0 Me I? t h o 1 0.3 B a c t e r i c 1 de 0.5 Salicylic acid 0.4 Titanium dioxide 2.0 P i gment c o l o r 1. o I 1 Bioschwefel-Fluid 2.0 Water 90.8 Preparation: Pigment c o l o r , t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e and s u l f u r a r e m i x e d w i t h 1 5 p a r t s w a t e r and t w i c e r o l l e d . The r e s t o f t h e w a t e r i s added and h e a t e d t o a p p r o x . 70C. L a n e t t e N i s m e l t e d on t h e w a t e r b a t h a t 70C and m e n t h o l as w e l l as s a l i c y l i c a c i d a r e d i s s o l v e d i n ? n e f a t m e l t . The aqueous phase i s t h e n added and a f t e r b r i e f s t i r r i n g t h e e m u l s i o n p r o d u c e d i s homogenized s e v e r a l t i m e s b y recirculation. Formula N o . C21-01 S O U R C E : Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model Formulae

I

152

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Vitamin E and Wheat Active Daily Facial Moisturizer

%w/w D e i o n i z e d Water 45.40 35.00 C a r b o p o l 940-2% Aq. S o l ' n (Carbomer 9 4 0 ) Wheat-Tein NL ( H y d r o l y z e d Wheat P r o t e i n ) 3.00 Tween 20 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 2 0 ) 1.50 1 .50 B . A r l a c e l 60 ( S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e ) Petrolatum 2.00 Wheat Germ O i l 2 .oo Sesame O i l 3.00 C e t y l A1 coho1 1.oo A r l a c e l 165 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) 1 . 0 0 Isopropyl Palmitate 3.00 1.oo Shea B u t t e r 0.10 C. Tocopheryl Acetate T r i e t h a n o l ami ne-99% 1 .oo 9.s. Preservatives, Fragrance

A.

Procedure: Heat Phases A & B s e p a r a t e l y t o 8OC. Add Phase B t o A a t 8OC w i t h a g i t a t i o n M i x u n t i l smooth. Add Phase C c a r e f u l l y t o a v o i d aeration. P r o p e r t i es : T h i s elegan , vegetable-based m o i s t u r i z e r rubs i n completely, l e a v i n g a s o f t a f t e r f e e l , V e g e t a b l e o i l s and P e t r o l a t u m n o r m a l i z e t h e s k i n l i p i d s . Wheat-Tein NL b i n d s m o i s t u r e and l e a v e s a n o n - o c c l u s i v e p r o t e c t i v e f i l m . V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e a c t s as an a n t i o x i d a n t t o reduce f r e e r a d i c a l s i n t h e s k i n . Formula #SK-2010 Gelled Makeup Remover

%w/w Mineral O i l , Light P a r a f f i n Wax (143/145) O z o k e r i t e Wax #E71 Beaded Petrolatum P r o p y l Paraben Cami l o 1 (A1 pha-Bi s a b o l o l ) Proto-Lan 8 Vitamin E Fragrance C o l o r : Red dye i n Neobee M-5

80.9 6.5 9.5 2.0 0.1 0.2 0.5 0.1 0.2 q.s. t o l i g h t pink

Procedure: M e l t a l l components t o g e t h e r e x c e p t F r a g r a n c e nd V i t a m i n E . M i x and c o o l . Add F r a g r a n c e & V i t a m i n E. F i l l o f f Properties: n convenient A m i l d and s o o t h i n g o i l - b a s e d make-up remover g e l l e d form. Formula #SW-3240

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids

153

Water-in-Oil Luxurious Makeup T h i s formula i s a c o l d process w a t e r - i n - o i l emulsion stabi l i z e d by Veegum w h i c h a l s o c o n t r o l s t h e v i s c o s i t y and i n s u r e s uniform c o l o r throughout t h e product. This i s a m o i s t u r i z i n g makeup f o r d r y s k i n . Inaredient : Veegum, Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e D e i o n i z e d Water Magnesi um S u l f a t e

A:

B:

1.20 37.90 0.40 5.50 1.50 5.00 3,OO

Talc Vancl ay , Kaol in T i t a n i um D i o x i de I r o n Oxides

C: Mineral O i l Hydrogenated P o l i s o b u t y l e n e (Polysynlane) M i n e r a l O i 1 ( a n d ) L a n o l i n A1 coho1 ( R i t a c h o l ) I s o p r o p y l L a n o l a t e ( a n d ) L e c i t h i n (Lanapene) S o r b i t o 1 , 70% Oleamide DEA ( W i t c a m i d e 511C) D:

W t .%*

Preservative

15.00 8.00 8.00 7.00 5.00 2 50 I

q.s.

Procedure: S l o w l y add Veegum t o t h e w a t e r , w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l smooth. Add t h e magnesium s u l f a t e and m i x u n t i l smooth. G r i n d P a r t B and add t o P a r t A , m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add P a r t s A t 8 t o P a r t C . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m and smooth. Add P a r t D and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s

SOURCE:

R , T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., F o r m u l a N o . 332

I n c . : Veegum i n C o l o r C o s m e t i c s :

Protective Skin Gel

%w/w

Inaredients: Liquid lanolin fraction E t h o x y l a t e d L a n o l i n wax Mineral o i l O l i v e o i l , USP A r l a c e l 80 B u t y l a t e d h y d r o x y t o l uene

12.00 2.50 50.48 20.00 5.00 0.02

B : Col 1 o i d a l

10.00

A:

s i 1i c o n d i o x i d e

Procedure: Heat ( A ) w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l homogeneous. Remove h e a t and add ( B ) w i t h h i g h s h e a r a g i t a t i o n . M i l l i f n e c e s s a r y a t room temperature. SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Formula

154

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

W/O-Cleansing-Milk Reci pe : A H o s t a c e r i n WO P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 Sesquiisostearate (and) M i c r o c r y s t a l 1in e Wax ( a n d ) M i n e r a l O i 1 S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Aluminum S t e a r a t e A r l a c e l 989 PEG-7 H y d r o g e n a t e d C a s t o r O i l Amerchol L-101 Mineral O i l (and) L a n o l i n Alcohol M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s co s i t y Eutanol G O c t y l dodecanol Tocopherol a c e t a t e B - C a r o t in B A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . E t h y l e n d i a m i n e T e t r a a c e t i c Acid-Sodium C i t r i c a c i d (10% i n w a t e r ) D-Panthenol Sodium c h l o r i d e Water Preservative C Perfume Procedure: I M e l t A a t 8OC. I 1 S t i r t h e s o l u t i o n o f B i n t o I a t room 111 S t i r u n t i l c o o l . I V A t 35C add C t o 111. Formula A VI/4300

2.00% Beeswax ( a n d ) ( a n d ) MaQneSi um 2.00% 3.00% 15.00% 10.00% 0 ; 50% q.s. 0.10%

Salt 0.25% 0.50% 2.00% 64.35% q.s. 0.30% temperature.

W/O-Skin Milk Recipe: 4 H o s t a c e r i n WO P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 S e s q u i i s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Beeswax ( a n d ) M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax ( a n d ) M i n e r a l O i l ( a n d ) Magnesium S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Aluminum S t e a r a t e A r l a c e l 989 PEG-7 H y d r o g e n a t e d C a s t o r O i l Mineral o i l , low v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate Eutanol G O c t y l dodecanol B Sodium c h l o r i d e Water Preservative C Perfume Procedure: I M e l t A a t 8OC. I 1 S t i r t h e s o l u t i o n o f B i n t o I a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . I11 S t i r u n t i l c o o l . I V A t 35C add C t o 111. Formula A VI/2202

2.00%

2.00% 15.00% 5.00% 5.00% 2.00% 68.70% q.s. 0.30%

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s

Section V Creams

155

156

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Alpha Hydroxy Cream with Soluble Collagen

%w/w A.

Deionized water Veegum K (Magnesi u m A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e )

8. Methylparaben A m i no C o l l agen-25 Propylene Glycol Glycerin

( C o l l agen A m i no A c i d s )

C . A r l a c e l 165 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e and PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) Petrolatum Cetyl Alcohol Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d ( D i m e t h i c o n e ) Propylparaben Maywax P ( E m u l s i f y i n g Wax, NF) P o l y s o r b a t e 80 F i n s o l v TN (C12-15 a l k y l b e n z o a t e ) D.

L a c t i c Acid,

88%

68.50 1 .DO 0.20 2.00 3.00 2.00

2.00 1.oo 2.00 0.20 0.10 3.00 1.50 3.00 4.00

E . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99%

1.50

F . C o l l a g e n N a t i v e E x t r a 1% ( S o l u b l e C o l l a g e n )

5.00

Procedure: D i s p e r s e Veegum i n w a t e r . H e a t t o 80C. Add 8 t o A . Heat C t o 80C. Add C t o A/8 a t 8OC. M i x and c o o l t o 60C. Add D . Add E . A d j u s t pH as n e c e s s a r y t o 3 . 5 t o 4 . 0 w i t h T E A . M i x and c o o l t o 30C. Add F . Properties: T h i s A l p h a Hydroxy Cream g e n t l y e x f o l i a t e s , smooths and r e t e x t u r i z e s t h e s k i n . Appears t o d i m i n i s h f i n e f a c i a l l i n e s . H e l p s t o r e j u v e n a t e t h e s k i n f o r a more y o u t h f u l appearance. C o l l a g e n N a t i v e E x t r a 1% and Amino C o l l a g e n - 2 5 a c t t o h y d r a t e t h e s k i n and a l s o r e d u c e f i n e f a c i a l l i n e s . P l e a s a n t , nongreasy, fragrance f r e e . N o t e : A v o i d c o n t a c t w i t h eyes,

SOURCE:

Maybrook I n c . :

e y e l i d s o r mucous membranes.

Formula #SK-2100

Creams

157

Anti-Wrinkle Treatment Cream An e l e g a n t w h i t e creamy e m u l s i o n d e l i v e r i n g Rovisome-AHA (Lactic Acid) t o the skin. Inaredients: %w/w Function 1. R i t a Cetearyl Alcohol ( 5 0 / 5 0 ) 2 50 Emul s i f ic a t i o n 2. Steareth-2 2.50 Emul s i f i c a t i o n 3. Steareth-21 1.50 Emulsification 4. PPG-15 S t e a r y l E t h e r 3.00 Emollient 5. Dioctyl Adipate 3.00 Emollient 6. Dioctylcyclohexane 2.00 A f t e r Feel 2.00 Spread 7 . C y c l o m e t h i c o n e (Dow DC 245) 8. D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l 300) 0.50 Feel 9 . H y b r i d S u n f l o w e r Seed O i l 4.00 Emollient 68.40 ---1 0 . O i s t i 11 e d / D e i o n i zed Water 11.1,3 B u t y l e n e G l y c o l 4.00 Coup1 ing 1 2 . X a n t h a n Gum ( K e l t r o l CG-T) 0.30 Stability 1 3 . Rovi some-AHA ( L a c t i c A c i d ) 6.00 Liposome 1 4 . M e t h y l d i b r o m o G l u t a r o n i t r i l e and Phenoxyethanol 0.30 Preservative Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 12 i n w a t e r and b u t y l e n e g l y c o l m i x t u r e . I n s e p a r a t e b e a k e r h e a t i t e m s 1 - 9 t o 70C. Heat w a t e r phase t o 70C and add t o o i l p h a s e . Then homogenize and c o o l t o 35C. Add Rovi some and p r e s e r v a t i v e . R e f . No. 119-121 I

Anti-Ageing Treatment Cream An e m u l s i f i e r f r e e f o r m u l a w i t h Rovisome ACE d e s i g n e d t o provide nourishment t o s k i n t o h e l p e l i m i n a t e w r i n k l e s . Inqredients: %w/w Function 1. R i t a Cetearyl Alcohol ( 5 0 / 5 0 ) 1.00 F a t t y Emoll ie n t 5.00 Feel 2 . Babassu O i l 3 . Pol ydecene 10.00 Coating 4 . C e t e a r y l Isononanoate 5.00 D r y Time 5 . D i s t i 1 1ed/Dei o n ? zed Water 67.20 ---6. Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e C r o s s p o l ymer (Pemul en TR-1) 0.40 S t a b i 1 it y 7 . T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 0.10 Stability 8. Glycerine 5.00 Humectant 9 . Methyldibromo G l u t a r o n i t r i l e (and) Phenoxyethanol 0.30 Preservative 10.Sodium H y d r o x i d e 8 10% q.s. pH C o n t r o l 11. Rovi some ACE ( V i t a m i n 81 end) 6.00 N o u r i shment Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 6 i n w a t e r . Add i t e m 7 and h e a t t o 60C. I n a s e p a r a t e b e a k e r h e a t i t e m s 1 - 4 t o 60C and add t o w a t e r phase under s t i r r i n g . Then homogenize. N e u t r a l i z e t o pH 6 . 2 - 7 . 0 w i t h i t e m 10. Cool t o 35C. Add p r e m i x e d 8 , 9 and 11. R e f . No. 119-122 SOURCE: R.I.T.A. C o r p . : S k i n Care F o r m u l a r y

158

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Balanced Emollient Cream Inpredient: %w/w 1 E u m u l a i n 82 3.0 2 C e t i o i SN 10.0 3 C e t i o l SB45 5.1 4 Monomuls 60-35 5.0 5 S i p o l 1618 C50 2.2 6 Preservative q.s. 7 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s an O/W e m o l l i e n t cream. The f i r s t f i v e components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. The w a t e r i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e as t h e o i l phase. The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. F o r m u l a TS 477 Replenishing Emollient Cream Ingredient: %w/w 1 E u m u l g i n 82 3.0 10.0 2 C e g e s o f t 624 5.1 3 C e t i o l SB45 5.0 4 Monomuls 60-35 5 S i p o l 1618 C50 2.2 4,s. 6 Preservative t o 100.0 7 Water T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s an O/W e m o l l i e n t cream. The f i r s t f i v e components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. The w a t e r i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e as t h e o i l phase. The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. F o r m u l a TS 478 Hand and Body Cream Inpredient: %w/w 1 E u m u l g i n 82 3.0 2 Cetiol A 10.0 3 C e t i o l S045 5.1 4 Monomuls 60-35 5.0 5 S i p o l 1618 C50 2.2 6 Preservative q.s. 7 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s an O/W e m o l l i e n t cream. The f i r s t f i v e components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. The w a t e r i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e a s t h e o i l phase. The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. F o r m u l a TS 479 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S k i n Care P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

159

Balanced Emollient Cream "/ow/w Inqredient: 3.0 1 E u m u l a i n 92 2 C e t i o i LC 10.0 3 N o v a t a AB 5.1 4 Monomuls 60-35 5.0 5 L o r o l C16 1.1 6 L o r o l C18 1.1 7 P r e s e r v a t ive 4.s. 8 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s an e x c e p t i o n a l l y smooth O/W e m o l l i e n t cream. The f i r s t s i x components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. The w a t e r i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e as t h e o i l phase. The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. Formula TS 480

Light Cleansing Cream Inaredient : 3.0 1 E u m u l g i n 82 10.0 2 R i l a n i t PC 5.1 3 Novata AB 5.0 4 Monomuls 60-35 1.I 5 L o r o l C16 1.1 6 L o r o l C18 9,s. 7 Preservative t o 100.0 8 Water T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s an O/W e m o l l i e n t cream. The f i r s t s i x components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. The w a t e r i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e as t h e o i l phase. The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. Formula TS 481 Replenishing Moisture Cream Inqredient: %w/w 4.0 1 C u t i n a FB25 8.0 2 C u t i n a CBS 11 . o 3 Eutanol G 5.0 4 Paraffin o i l 1.5 5 KOH (20%) 5.0 6 Glycerine q.s. 7 P r e s e r v a t ive t o 100.0 8 Water T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s an O/W s k i n cream. The f i r s t f o u r components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Components 5 & 6 a r e d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r , w h i c h i s t h e n h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e . The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. Formula TS 482

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: S k i n Care P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

I60

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Barrier Cream

%

Ingredients: Phase A : H20, D e i o n i z e d G1 y c e r i n

34.50 25.00

Phase 8: Petrolatum, White P r o d u c t SE-100 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e & PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) H e s t MS ( M y r i s t y 1 S t e a r a t e ) H e t o l CS ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) H e s t CSO ( C e t e a r y l O c t a n o a t e )

25.00 6.00 3.00 2.50 2.50

Phase C : Germaben I 1 Specifications: pH: 5 . 7 5 Appearance: W h i t e ,

heavy n o n - f l o w a b l e cream

Procedure: 1 ) I n s e p a r a t e s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e s , add Phase A and Phase and h e a t t o 75C w h i l e m i x i n g . 2 ) A t 75C, add Phase B t o A and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. 3 ) Cool t o 45C, w h i l e m i x i n g and add Phase C . M i x w e l l .

B

F o r m u l a HC93-115-3 Moisture Cream Ingredients: Phase A : H20, D e i o n i z e d H e t o x i d e G-26 ( G l y c e r e t h - 2 6 )

% 76.00 4.00

Phase B: Hest MS ( M y r i s t y l S t e a r a t e ) H e s t IS-2-0 ( I s o s t e a r e t h - 2 O c t a n o a t e ) Hetoxol D (Cetearyl Alcohol & Ceteareth-20)

4.50 9.00 5.50

Phase C : Germaben I 1

1 .oo

Procedure: 1) I n separate 2) H e a t t o 75C 3 ) Add Phase B 4 ) Cool t o 40C

s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e s , add Phase A and Phase 9. while mixing. t o Phase A . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. and add Phase C . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m .

Formula HC 93-118-5

SOURCE:

Heterene,

I n c . : Suggested Formulas

161

Creams

Body Cream M a t e r i a l /CTFA-Index: A : T e g i n a c i d / G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) Ceteareth-20 6.00% Isopropyl Myristate 1 .oo B e l s i 1 DM 35O/Dimethicone 1 .oo Mineral O i l , low v i s c o s i t y 4.00 Lanette O/Cetearyl Alcohol 1-00 B : Water 73.50 G1 y c e r ine 1.50 C : B e l s i 1 CM 0 4 0 / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e 10.00 B e l s i l BNP/Boron N i t r i d e 2.00 q.s. P r e s e r v a t i v e s , fragrances, perfumes Heat A and 8 each t o 65-70C, s t i r B i n t o A , s t i r C i n t o AB. Temperature s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 1 0 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 912 AH Emollient Cream White firm cream, easily spread M a t e r ia1 /CTFA-Index : A : A r l a c e l 1 6 5 / G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e se A r l amol E/PPG-l5 S t e a r y l E t h e r Cetyl Alcohol W a c k e r - B e l s i l PDM lOOO/Phenyldimethicone W a c k e r - B e l s i l SDM 6 0 2 2 / D i m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) S t e a r o x y D i m e t h y l s i l a n e (and) Stearoxy D i m e t h y l d i s i loxane B: S o r b i t o 1 70%ige L s g / S o r b i t o 1 Water Preservative, fragrances, pigments Heat A t o 70C, h e a t B t o 72C. S t i r B i n t o A . F o r m u l a t i o n 709 AH SOURCE: Wacker S i icone : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

5.00% 3.00 5-00 2.50 2.50 10.20 71.30 q.s.

Hand Cream

.

( 0 ) L i q u i d P a r a f f n (#70 Cetyl Alcohol N i k k o l WCB Isopropyl Myristate G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( S e l f Emu1s i f y i n g Type) Polyoxyethylene (20) Cetyl Ether (W) A j i d e w N-50 Water P r e s e r v a t iv e Procedure: 1 . Heat ( 0 and (W) t o 80C. 2. Add ( W ) and (0) s l o w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g . 3. Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 5 . 2

SOURCE: A j

nomoto USA,

Inc.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

10 O w t % 5.0 5.0 5.0 2.9 2.1 3.0 67.0 q.s.

162

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Care Cream O/W

xw/w I

16.0 1.5 1.5 10.0 10.0

C u t i n a MD E u m u l g i n 81 Eurnulgin 82 Cetiol V M y r i t o l 318

5.0 56.0

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water N o t e : F a t t i n g , medium s o f t c o n s i s t e n c y F o r m u l a N o . A12-04 Universal Care Cream O/W

I

18.0 1.5 1.5 20.0

C u t i n a MO E u m u l g i n B1 Eumulgin 82 Eutanol G

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9

5.0 5.0 1.o 48.0

Cremogen w i t c h h a z e l e x t r a c t Triethanolamine Water N o t e : Medi u m - f a t t i n g , s o f t c o n s i s t e n c y F o r m u l a No. A12-05 Care Cream O/W

s/ow/w I

1.5 12.0 12.0 6.0 2.0 3.0 5.0

L a n e t t e 16 S i e g e r t S t e a r i n LPSM Eutanol G M y r i t o l 318 C u t i n a BW Wool f a t , a n h y d r o u s P a r a f f i n o i l , h i g h viscous

6.0

i I H f ~ i k e lg l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 T r i e t h a n o l a r n i ne Water N o t e : F a t t i n g , medium s o f t c o n s i s t e n c y , a w lY F o r m u l a No. A 1 2 - 0 6 SOURCE:

1.5

51 . O p a r t i c u l a r l y easy t o

Henkel K G a A : Cosmetic Model F o r m u l a e

Creams

163

Cleansing Cream T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n i s a d u a l p u r p o s e makeup remover and s k i n conditioner. Phase A : M y v e r o l 1 8 - 0 6 h y d r o g e n a t e d soy g l y c e r i d e S t e a r i c a c i d , USP/NF P e t r o l a t u m , USP Drakeol 9 m i n e r a l o i l Isopropyl myristate S F 18 ( 3 5 0 ) s i l i c o n e f l u i d ( d i m e t h i c o n e ) Phase 6 : D i s t i l l e d water P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l , USP T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99%, USP Phase C: Eastman v i t a m i n E 6 - 8 1

?W/w 6.00 4.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 2.00 9 , s . t o 100

(vitamin E acetate)

Phase D : Fragrance Preservative

5.50 0 . 70 0.30

q.s q.s

Procedure: 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t Phase A and Phase B s e p a r a t e l y t o 80C, m i x i n g u n t i l each phase i s u n i f o r m . 2 . Add Phase B t o Phase A w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x i n g . 3 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and s l o w l y c o o l t o 50C. 4 . Add Phase C w i t h m i x i n g and when u n i f o r m add Phase D . 5 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g a n d c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . 6 . A d j u s t a g i t a t i o n speed t h r o u g h o u p r o c e s s a s needed. I n v e r s i o n w i l l o c c u r a t 32C, and cream w i l l become smooth and w h i t e . pH: 7 . 7 1

SOURCE:

Eastman Chemical C o . : F o r m u a t i on X 2 1 1 3 9 - 0 0 7

164

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cleansing Cream

Wt% ( 0 ) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) Petrolatum Beeswax L a n o l in A1 c o h o l Polyoxyethylene ( 5 ) G l y c e r y l I s o s t e a r a t e Polyoxyethylene ( 5 ) S t e a r y l Ether Polyethylene G l y c o l (500) D i s t e a r a t e S o r b i t a n Mono1 a u r a t e S o r b i t a n Monooleate A1 umi num M o n o s t e a r a t e (W)

21.0 5.0 10.0 1.7 4.0 2.5 1.6 0.2 0.4 2.0 3.0 3.0 45.6 q.s.

A j i d e w N-50 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Water Preservative

Procedure: 1 Suspend a1 umi num m o n o s t e a r a t e t o 1 iq u i d p a r a f f i n . 2 . Add o t h e r ( 0 ) i n g r e d i e n t s t o t h e s u s p e n s i o n . 3 . Heat ( 0 ) t o 95C t o d i s s o l v e . 4 . H e a t ( W ) t o 85C. 5 . Add ( W ) t o ( 0 ) s l o w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g . 6 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

.

pH: 5 . 1

Cleansing Cream

Wt% ( 0 ) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C) Squalane Isopropyl Palmitate C e t y l A1 c o h o l N i k k o l WCB S o r b i t a n Monostearate P o l y o x y e t h y l ene ( 1 5 ) C e t y l E t h e r

35.0 10.0 2.0 3.0

(W) A j i d e w T - 5 0 Water Preservative

3.0 31 . O

Procedure: 1 . H e a t ( 0 ) and (W) t o 80C. 2 . Add ( W ) t o ( 0 ) s l o w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g pH: 5 . 7 SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

1.o 10.0 2.4 2.6

a.s.

Creams

165

Cleansing Cream

%m

Ingredient: 1 E u m u l g i n 82 2 E u m u l g i n 61 3 C u t i n a MD 4 C e t i o l MM 5 S i p o l 1 6 18 C50 6 M y r i t o l 318 7 Paraffin o i l .. 8 W h i t e S o f t P a r a f f' 1 n 9 P r e s e r v a t i ve 10 Water

1.5 1.5 3.0 5.0 3.0 8.0 11 . o 14.0 q.s. t o 100.0

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a r i c h m o i s t u r i s i n g O/W s k i n cream. The f i r s t e i g h t components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. The w a t e r i s t h e n h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e . The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 30C. The p r o d u c t w i l l o n l y a c h i e v e i t s optimum v i s c o s i t y , i f m i x i n g i s c o n t i n u e d u n t i l t h e p r o d u c t h a s c o o l e d down. F o r m u l a TS 491

Cleansing Cream Inaredient: 1 E u m u l g i n 82 2 E u m u l g i n B1 3 C u t i n a MD 4 C e t i o l MM 5 S i p o l 16-18 C50 6 M y r i t o l 318 7 Paraffin o i l 8 White S o f t P a r a f f i n 9 Glycerine 10 P r e s e r v a t i ve 11 Water

%w/w 1.5 1.5 3.0 5.0 3.0 8.0 11 . o 14.0 5.0 q.s. t o 100.0

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a r i c h m o i s t u r i s i n g O/W s k i n cream. The f i r s t e i g h t components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Component 9 i s d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r , and t h i s m i x t u r e i s t h e n h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e . The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 30C. The p r o d u c t w i l l o n l y a c h i e v e i t s optimum v i s c o s i t y , i f m i x i n g i s c o n t i n u e d u n t i l t h e p r o d u c t has c o o l e d down. F o r m u l a TS 492 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S k i n Care P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

166

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cleansing Cream O/W

I

L a n e t t e 16 C u t i n a MD Eumulgin 81 E u m u l g i n 82 C e t i o l LC Paraffin o i l ,

2.0 14.0 1.5 1.5

7.0 h i g h viscous

I 1 Water Formula N o . 811-01

15.0

59.0

Cleansing Cream W/O

I

%w/w

Dehymuls K Cetiol V M y r i t o l 318 Vasel ine, w h i t e

20.0 10.0 10.0

20.0

I 1 Water

Formula N o .

40.0 811-02 Cleansing Cream W/O

%w/w I Dehymuls F Vasel ine, w h i t e P a r a f f i n o i l , low viscous Microwax HP 67

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Magnesi um s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water Formula No. 611-03

12.0 35.0 15.0 2.0 5.0

0.3 30.7

Washing Cream O/W

I

L a n e t t e N/SX Eutanol G

8.0 5.0

I 1 Comperlan KM

10.0 10.0 0.1 66.9

Texapon CS P a s t e C i t r i c acid Water Fomula No. 8 1 2 - 0 1

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

Creams

167

Cream for Skin Impurities O/W

%w/w I

L a n e t t e N/SX Salicylic acid Menthol B a c t e r ic i d e Rice starch Powder c o l o r a n t Titanium dioxide Sulfur, precipitated

I 1 Water

15.0 0.4 0.3 0.5 5.0 1.o 2.0 2.0 73.8

Preparation: R i c e s t a r c h , powder c o l o r a n t , t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e and s u l f u r a r e mixed w i t h 15 p a r t s w a t e r and t w i c e r o l l e d . The r e m a i n i n g w a t e r i s h e a t e d t o g e t h e r w i t h above m i x t u r e t o a p p r o x . 70C. L a n e t t e N i s m e l t e d on t h e w a t e r b a t h a t 70C and m e n t h o l and s a l i c y l i c a c i d a r e d i s s o l v e d i n t h e f a t m e l t . The aqueous phase i s t h e n added and a f t e r b r i e f s t i r r i n g t h e cream p r o d u c e d i s homogenized several times by r e c i r c u l a t i o n . Formula No. C11-01 Cream for Skin Impurities, Transparent, in Gel Form O/W

%w/w I

Eumulgin 83 C e t i o l HE Eutanol G Menthol Bactericide

I 1 Allantoin

Water

14.0 20.0 5.0 0.1 0.2 0.2 60.5

Procedure: E u m u l g i n 83 and t h e f a t t y s u b s t a n c e s a r e m e l t e d on t h e w a t e r b a t h a t 95C and m e n t h o l i s d i s s o l v e d i n t h e f a t m e l t . The w a t e r , i n w h i c h a l l a n t o i n has been d i s s o l v e d e a r l i e r , i s a l s o added t o t h e f a t m e l t a t a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 95C. The g e l p r o d u c e d i s c o o l e d w h i l s t s t i r r i n g and t h e p e r f u m e i s added a t 60C. S t i r r i n g i s c o n t i n u e d w h i l e t h e g e l i s c o o l i n g down, b u t s h o u l d be t e r m i n ated a f t e r a short w h i l e t o avoid a i r pockets. I n order t o o b t a i n a gel w i t h t h e desired transparency, i t i s essential t o observe t h e temperature s p e c i f i e d . Formula N o . C11-02 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

168

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cream with Placenta Extract W/O

%w/w I Dehymuls Cetiol V

30.0 7.0 2.0 6.0 2.0

K

Beeswax Vegetable o i 1 Placenta l i q u i d ,

o i l soluble

53.0

I 1 Water

F o r m u l a No. A15-04 Rejuvenating Cream O/W

%w/w I Cutina

12.0 1.o 10.0 6.0 4.0 3.0

K D 16

E u m u l g i n B1 Eutanol G Isopropyl Myristate V i tamin o i 1 P1 a c e n t a 1 i q u i d , o i 1 - s o l u b l e

5.0 59.0

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9

Water S e t pH t o 7 Note: S o f t consistency, F o r m u l a No. A 1 5 - 0 5

easy t o a p p l y

Skin Cream O/W with Collagen

sbw/w 16.0 3.0 10.0

I C u t i n a MD

E u m u l g i n 82 Eutanol G

5.0 61.0

I 1 1,2-Propylene g l y c o l

Water

5.0

IIICollagen N o t e : pH s e t t i n g 3 . 7 t o 6 . 5 P r e p a r a t i o n : Heat I t o 7 5 C , s t i r I 1 i n t o I a t a p p r o x . Add I11 t o t h e cream a t 3 5 C . Formula No. A15-06

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

80C.

Creams

169

Day Cream Soft cream with good absorption and non-greasing properties. M a t e r i a l CTFA-Index: Eumuliin B2/Ceteareth-20 L a n e t t e N / C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) Sodium C e t e a r y l Sulfate Stearic Acid Eutanol G/Octyldodecanol Wacker-Bel s i 1 Dh4 3 5 0 / D i m e t h i c o n e W a c k e r - B e l s i l SM 6 0 1 8 / S t e a r y l M e t h i c o n e

A:

8: Glycerine

4 -00 12 - 0 0 3 .80 4.00 5.00 4.00

Triethanolamine Water

0.80 61.40

Preservatives, fragrances, Heat A and

5 .OO%

B each t o 70C.

9.s.

pigments Stir

B into A

F o r m u l a t i o n 1362 AH Day Cream Cream with good absorption and non-greasing properties. M a t e riauCTFA-Index: A : Eumulgi n B 2 / C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 L a n e t t e N / C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) Sodium C e t e a r y l Sulfate Stearic Acid Eutanol G/Octyldodecanol W a c k e r - B e l s i 1 DM 3 5 0 / D i m e t h i c o n e W a c k e r - B e l s i l SM 6 0 1 8 / S t e a r y l M e t h i c o n e E u s o l e x 6 3 0 0 / M e t h y l b e n z y l i d e n e Camphor

4.00 12.00 3.80

4,OO 5,OO 2.50

4.00

B: G l y c e r i n e Triethanolamine W a c k e r - B e l s i 1 DMC 6 0 3 8 / D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l Water P r e s e r v a t i v e s , pigments,

5.00%

fragrances

Heat A and B each t o 70C. S t i r

B into A.

F o r m u l a t i o n 1399 AH

SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

0.80 2.00 56.90 q.s.

I70

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Day Cream Soft white cream with a silky shine. Absorbed quickly Material/CTFA-Index: A: S t e a r i c A c i d

14.00% 6.00 1.50 72.50

6:

Propylene Glycol Triethanolamine Water

C:

Ethanol 96%ig/Alcohol (Cosmetic grade) B e l s i l DM lOO/Dimethicone B e l s i l CM 0 4 0 / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e P r e s e r v a t i v e s , fragrances, pigments

2.50 1 .50 2.00 q.s.

M e l t t h e s t e a r i c a c i d a t a p p r o x . 65-70C, m i x B and h e a t t o a p p r o x . 70C. Work A i n t o B w h i l s t s t i r r i n g q u i c k l y . S l o w l y add C Temperature s t a b i l i t y :

a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks.

F o r m u l a t i o n 190 AH

Hand Cream White, creamy. Easily spread, quickly absorbed. Material/CTFA-Index: A: H o s t a c e r i n CG/Trilaneth-4-Phosphate ( a n d ) C e t e a r y l A1 coho1 ( a n d ) PEG-6 01 eami d e (and) Sodi um-Cl4-Cl7 A l k y l Sec S u l f o n a t e P a r a f f ino1 / M i n e r a l o i 1 B e l s i 1 DM 350/Di m e t h i cone

15.00% 15.00 1.oo

6: G l y c e r i n e Wasser d e s t . / W a t e r P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume

66.00 q.s.

3.00

M e l t A a t a p p r o x . 70C. h e a t B t o 75C. Add B t o A w h i l s t s t i r r i n g ( d o n o t a l l o w d foam t o f o r m ) . S t i r c o l d s l o w l y . Temperature s t a b i l i t y :

a t 45C o v e r 1 0 weeks.

F o r m u l a t i o n 148 AH

SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

171

Day Cream O/W

96w/w I S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2SM L a n e t t e 16 Eumulgin 82 Eutanol G Beeswax, w h i t e Paraffin o i l

8.0 1.5 2.0 5.0 3.0 10.0

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9

5.0

A m i nomethyl p r o p a n e d i o l Water Note: M e d i u m - f a t t i ng,

0.4 65.1

soft-consistency,

" C o l d cream" t y p e

Day creams a r e a l s o d e s i g n a t e d as m a t t creams, v a n i s h i n g creams, f o u n d a t i o n creams o r a r e c a l l e d snow creams o r p e a r l y g l o s s creams due t o t h e i r appearance. They a r e a l m o s t e x c l u s i v e l y o i l - i n - w a t e r e m u l s i o n s , i n w h i c h m o n o / d i g l y c e r i d e s s u c h as C u t i n a MD and s t e a r i c a c i d a r e t h e main i n g r e d i e n t s o f t h e f a t t y phase. The t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e ( p r e f e r a b l y a " n o n - y e l l o w i n g " t y p e ) n o r m a l l y used as t h e s a p o n i f y i n g a g e n t i n t h e s t e a r a t e creams can a l s o b e r e p l a c e d b y AMPD (aminomethyl p r o p a n e d i o l ) , t h u s a l l o w i n g more c o l o r - f a s t f i n i s h e d p r e p a r a t i o n s t o be p r o d u c e d . Formula N o . A l l - 0 1 Day Cream O/W I C u t i n a KD 16

16.0 1.o 6.0 4.0

E u m u l g i n B1 Eutanol G Isopropyl Myri s t a t e I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water Set pH t o 7 Note: Low-fatting, F o r m u l a No. A l l - 0 2

s o f t consistency

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

6.0 67.0

172

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Day Cream O/W

I

%Wi!Y

C u t i n a MD Lanette 0 C u t i n a E24 Forlanit E C e t i o l 868

6.00 1.50 2.00 0.40 8.00

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Triethanolamine Water

5.00 0.08 77.02

Forrnul a A1 1-32 Day Cream O/W

I

%WfW 15.0

C u t i n a GMS E u n i u l y i n 81 Dehyinuls L S Eutanol G M y r i t o l 318

3.0 3.0 12.0 5.0

I i Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water

5.0 57.0

F o r m u l a A1 1-34 Skin Cream O/W %W/W

I

Cutina MD E u m u l y i n 81 Dehyinuls LS Eutanol G M y r i t o l 318 P a r a f f it i o i 1 ,

h i g h v i scous

I i Water Formula A l l - 3 5 SOURCE: Henkel K G a A : Cosmetic Model Formulae

14.0 3.0 5.0 8.0 8.0 6.0 56.0

Creams

173

Day Cream O/W (Soft Cream)

%w/w C u t i n a CBS C u t i n a E24 E u m u l g i n 82 Cetiol B C e t i o l SN I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water F o r m u l a A I 1-21

I

12.0 1.5 1.5 6.0 4.0

5.0 70.0

Universal Day Cream O/W

%w/w I

C u t i n a GMS Dehymuls SMS E u m u l g i n SMS 20 Eutanol G Cetiol B I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water F o r m u l a A I 1-22

14.0 2.0 3.0 6.0 6.0 3.0 66.0

Universal Day Cream O/W

%w/w C u t i n a MD L a n e t t e 16 E u m u l g i n SMS 20 Eutanol G C e t i o l 868 I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water F o r m u l a A1 1-23

I

14.0

0.5 3.0 6.0 6.0 5.0 65.5

Universal Day Cream O/W

%w/w C u t i n a MD L a n e t t e 16 Dehymuls SMS E u m u l g i n SMS 20 Eutanol G C e t i o l 868 I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water Formula No. A l l - 2 4

I

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

14.0 0.5 1. o 3.0 3.0 6.0

5.0 67.5

174

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Day Cream O/W (Allround Cream)

%w/w I

C u t i n a MD S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2SM E u m u l g i n B1 M y r i t o l 318 P a r a f f i n o i 1, v i s c o u s

6.0 10.0 3.0 3.0 3.0

I I . T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 1,2-propylene Water

0.5 5.0 64.5

glycol

Note: S l i g h t p e a r l y g l o s s , medium-fatting, F o r m u l a No. A l l - 0 3

s o f t consistency

Day Cream O/W

I

rn

Cutina MD E u m u l g i n B1 E u m u l g i n 82 Cetiol B Eutanol G

14.0 1.5 1.5 6.0 6.0

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9

6.0 65.0

Water Formula No. A l l - 0 4 Day Cream O/W

%w/w I

Lanette N o r W Eutanol G S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2SM

8.0 2.5 6.5

I I T r i e t h a n o l ami ne

0.4 5.0 77.6

Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water

N o t e : T h i s f o r m u l a - a s w e l l as f o r m . no. 1 1 - 1 4 - i s an example o f t h e p o s s i b l e use of L a n e t t e t y p e s f o r day creams. F o r m u l a No . A l l - 0 5

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic

Model Formulae

Creams

175

Day Cream O/W %W/W

I

Cutina MD Eumulgin B1 Cetiol B P a r a f f i n o i 1, h i g h v i s c o u s

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water F o r m u l a N o . All-06

15.0 3.0

10.0 3.0 5.0

64.0

Day Cream O/W %W/W

I

Emulgade F Eutanol G Paraffin o i l ,

10.0 high viscous

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% D A B 9 Water Formula No. All-07

4.0 2.0

5.0

79.0 Day Cream O/W %w / w

I

C u t i n a MD S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2SM Eumulgin B1 Eutanol G P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous

I1 Triethanolamine

4.0 16.0 3.0 3.0 3.0

0.5

Water 70.5 Formula No. All-08 N o t e : S t r o n g p e a r l y g l o s s , l o w - f a t t i n g m a t t day cream w i t h a s o f t c o n s i s t e n c y . " V a n i s h i n g cream" t y p e . Day Cream O/W %W/W

I

Cutina MD S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2SM Eumulgin B1 Eumulgin 82 Cetiol B Eutanol G

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Triethanolamine Water Formula No. All-09

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

6.0 8.0 1.0 1 .o 10.0 5.0

6.0 0.5

62.5

176

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Day Cream O/W %w/W 15.0 3.0 10.0 3.0 5.0 64.0

I

C u t i n a MD E u m u l g i n B1 C e t i o l LC P a r a f f i n o i l , h i g h viscous I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water Note: L o w - f a t t i n g F o r m u l a No. A l l - 1 0 Day Cream O/W

15.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 70.0

C u t i n a KD 16 Eutanol G M y r i t o l 318 I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water

I

S e t pH t o 7 Note: Medium-fatting, Formula No. A l l - 1 1

s o f t consistency,

easy t o a p p l y

Day Cream O/W

%w/w I

C u t i n a LE Eutanol G Paraffin o i l , I 1 1,2-propylene Water

high viscous glycol

15.0 4.0 2.0 5.0 74.0

N o t e : L o w - f a t t i n g , medium s o f t c o n s i s t e n c y F o r m u l a No. A l l - 1 2 Day Cream O/W C u t i n a K D 16 S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2SM Eutanol G M y r i t o l 318 P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous I1 1’2-propylene g l y c o l Triethanolamine Water

I

6.0 8.0 5.0 3.0 3.0 5.0 0.4 69.6

Note: S l i g h t p e a r l y g l o s s , medium f a t t i n g , s o f t c o n s i s t e n c y Formula No. A l l - I 3 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

Creams

177

Day Cream O/W

%w/w I

Lanette N Eutanol G P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water

10.0 8.0 4.0 5.0 73.0

Note: Medium-fatting Formula A l l - I 4 Day Cream O/W

I

Emulgade F C e t i o l LC M y r i t o l 318 I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water

10.0 12.0 6.0 6.0 66.0

Note: M e d i u m - f a t t i n g Formula A l l - 1 5 Day Cream O/W

%w/w 14.0 2.0 1.o 1 0 82 0

I

S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2SM Lanette 16 Eutanol G I1 Triethanolamine Water

N o t e : T y p i c a l s t e a r a t e cream o r s o - c a l l e d snow cream, formul a. Formula A I 1 - 1 6

very d Y

Day Cream O/W

I

C u t i n a MD-A S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2SM E u m u l g i n 81 Eumulgin 82 C e t i o l SN M y r i t o l 318 I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water Note: S o f t consistency, Formula A l l - 1 7

medium-fatting.

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

4.0 4.0 1.0 1 .o 3.0 4.0

3.0 80.0

178

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Depilatory Cream Beige-coloured cream Mater i a1 /CTFA-Index : A: Emulgator E-2155/Stearyl Alcohol (and) StearethSteareth-10 Tagat S/PEG-30-Glyceryl Stearate Lanolin Oi 1 Stearyl Alcohol Isopropyl Myristate

8.00% 2.00 5.00 2.00 5.00

B: Glycerine Water Belsi 1 DMC 6033/Dimethicone Cop0 yo1 Acetate

3.00 52.00 1 .oo

C: Calcium Oxide Calcium Thioglycolate Water Preservatives, fragrances, pigme ts

3.00 5.00 14.00 9,5.

Heat A and B to 75C, stir B into A. Stir in C at 45C. Temperature stability: 8 weeks at 45C Formulation 319 AH Hand Cream Material/CTFA-Index: A: Dehymuls E/Sorbitan Sesquioleate(a.)Beeswax(a.)Aluminum Stearat(a.) Other Ingredients Vase1 i ne/Petrolatum Cet i ol V/Decyl 01 eate Mineral Oil (high viscosity) B: Water

9,00

4.50 4.50 47.80

C: Zinc Oxide Talc D: Belsil CM lOOO/Cyclomethicone(a.)

6.20%

9.00 9.00

Dimethiconol

Preservatives, perfume, pigments

10.00 q.s.

Heat A and B to 60-65C. Stir B into A , add C and cool to approx. 30C. Add D. Formulation 341 AH SOURCE: Wacker Silicone: Suggested Formulations

Creams

179

Enrichment Cream

o/ow/w

Ingredient: 1 Emulgade S E 2 Cetiol B 3 C e t i o l MM 4 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e 345 5 B l a n o s e (C.M.C.) 6 Preservative 7 Water

8.0 9.0 4.0 0.5 0.5 q.s. t o 100.0

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a medium w e i g h t O/W s k i n cream. The f i r s t t h r e e components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Component 5 i s d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r w h i c h i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e . The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase, a l s o a t a b o u t 85C, and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. The C y c l o m e t h i c o n e can t h e n be added. Formula TS 504 Emollient Body Lotion

%w/w

Inaredient: 1 Emulgade SE 2 C e t i o l LC 3 Novata A B 4 Preservative 5 Water

9.0 8.0 4.0 q.s. t o 100.0

T h i s f o r m u l a i o n g i v e s a l i g h t O/W s k i n l o t i o n w i h a medium viscosity The f i r s t t h r e e components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase, a l s o a t a b o u t 85C, and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. F o r m u l a TS 506

.

Every Day Lotion Ingredient: Emulgade SE 2 Cetiol B 3 C e t i o l MM 4 P r e s e r v a t i ve 5 Water 1

96w/w 8.0 9.0 4.0 q.s. t o 100.0

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a l i g h t O/W s k i n l o t i o n . The f i r s t t h r e e components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase, a l s o a t a b o u t 85C, and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. Formula TS 507

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S k i n Care P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

180

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Facial Cleansing Cream

Wt%

I n q r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: Part A: Sodium H y d r o g e n a t e d T a l l o w G l u t a m a t e / A m i s o f t HS-11 Water Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate

4.0 23.8 0.2

P a r t B: Squal ane POE ( 3 0 ) G l y c e r y l T r i i s o s t e a r a t e / E m a l e x GIWS330 B u t y l Parahydroxybenzoate

70.4 1.5 0.1

Procedure: Heat P a r t A t o BO-85 d e g r e e s c e n t i g r a d e w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l m i x i s completely uniform. Cool P a r t A q u i c k l y t o 30 d e g r e e s c e n t i g r a d e . W h i l e P a r t A i s b e i n g c o o l e d , m i x P a r t B a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . When P a r t A i s a t 30 d e g r e e s c e n t i g r a d e , add P a r t B s l o w l y t o P a r t A w h i l e homogenizing. Cool t h e m i x t u r e t o 1 0 d e g r e e s c e n t i g r a d e w h i l e m i x i n g . Formula M R E - 0 4 Facial Cleansing Milk

I ng r e d i en tL T r ad e dame P a r t A: T E A Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e / m i s o f t CT-12 Sodium H y d r o g e n a t e d T a l l o w G l u t a m a t e / A m i s o f t HS-11 Water Methyl Parahydroxybenzoate

20.0 1.5 6.8 0.2

Part 8: Isostearic Acid Liquid Paraffin Eldew CL-301 B u t y l Parahydroxybenzoate

8.5 59.9 3.0 0.1

Procedure: Heat P a r t A t o 80-85 d e g r e e s c e n t i g r a d e w h i l e m i x i n g . Heat P a r t B t o BO-85 d e g r e e s c e n t i g r a d e w h i l e m i x i n g . When b o t h p a r t s a r e a t 80-85 d e g r e e s c e n t i g r a d e add P a r t A t o P a r t 6 w i t h s t i r r i n g o r h o m o g e n i z i n g . Cool t o 30 d e g r e e s c e n t i g r a d e . F o r m u l a MRE-03

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U S A , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

181

Foundation Cream Firm cream. Absorbed well. Material/CTFA-Index: A : Lamecreme KSM/Glyceryl Olive O i l

20.00% 5.00

S t e a r a t e se

4.00 69.50 1 .oo 0.50 q.s.

8: G l y c e r i n e Water B e l s i 1 PDM Z O / P h e n y l d i m e t h i c o n e B e l s i 1 CM 0 2 0 / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume, pigments M e l t A, m i x B and h e a t t o 65C. Work B i n t o A w h i l s t s t i r r i n g quickly. T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : 8 weeks a t 45C. F o r m u l a t i o n 191 AH Foundation Cream Thin cream. Absorbed well. Material/CTFA-Index: A : Crodawax GP 2 0 0 / S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) PEG-Stearate Mineral o i l B e l s i l PDM 20/Phenyl D i m e t h i c o n e Glycerine Wasser d e s t . / W a t e r P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume,

9.00 44.00 q.s

pigments

M i x A and m e l t , h e a t B t o 65C, work ckly. S t i r whilst cooling. F o r m u l a t i o n 192 AH

13.00% 30.00 4.00

B into A whilst stirring

Hand Cream Soft, white cream with a good protective effect. Material/CTFA-Index: A: S t e a r i c Acid Isopropyl Myri s t a t e B e l s i l DM 35O/Dimethicone 8;

Sodium H y d r o x i d e Glycerine Water P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume

15.00% 2.00 10.00 1.oo

18.00 54.00 q.s.

H e a t A t o 8012, h e a t B t o a l i t t l e o v e r 80C. S t i r B s l o w l y i n t o A, s t i r c o l d . Temperature s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 196 AH

SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

182

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Glycerine Cream O/W Hand Cream I

Cutina KD 1 6 Eutanol G

I1 Henkel Glycerin 86% DAB 9 Water

17.0 5.0 20.0 58.0

Set pH to 7 Formula N o . A16-02 Glycerine Cream O/W Transparent, in Gel Form %w/w I

Eumulgin B1

I1 Henkel Glycerin 86% DAB 9 Carbopol 9 4 0 Triethanolamine Water

2.0 35.0 0.8 1.5 60.7

Preparation: Whilst stirring, Carbopol 940 is swelled i n cold water. Eumulgin 8 1 and glycerin are mixed by heating and added to the Carbopol 9 4 0 after they have cooled down to room temperature. Then, neutralize with triethanolamine NG which has been diluted with 5 parts water. Formul a A1 6-03 Glycerine Cream O/W Transparent, in Gel Form %w/w I

Eumulgin 8 3 Cetiol HE Paraffin oil, high viscous

I1 Henkel Glycerin 86% DAB 9 Water

13.0 20.0 5.0 20.0 42.0

Preparation: Eumulgin 8 3 and the fatty substances are melted on are dissolved in the fat melt. Water and glycerine are also added to the fat melt at a temperature of 95C. The gel produced is stirred and cooled and perfume is added at 6 0 C . The gel is cooled and stirring continued, although the stirring process should be terminated after a short while to eliminate air pockets. In order to achieve the desired transparency, it is essential to observe the temperature specified. Glycerine creams are only intended for use on the hands! Formula N o . A 1 6 - 0 4 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

Creams

183

Hand and Body Cream D e l i c a t e l y b a l a n c e d o i l based cream w i t h added l i p i d m o i s t u r i z a t i on. Innredi ents: 1. Ritapro-165 (R.I.T.A. Blend) 2 . Ritaderm (R.I.T.A. Blend) 3. R i t a Stearic Acid 4 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 5. Mineral O i l 6 . P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l D i p e l a r g o n a t e ( L e x o l PG 900) 7 . Propylparaben 8 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e @ 100% 9 . P r o w l ene G1v c o l 10.Meth;lparaben 11 . D i s t i l l e d / O e i o n i z e d Water

%w/w 2.00 0.50 4.50 1.00 2 50 I

3.50 0.05 0.80 3.50 0.15 81 .SO

Function Emulsifier Moisture Emulsifier Emulsifier Emoll ie n t Emol 1 ie n t Preservative pH Humectant P r e s e r v a t i ve

----

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : M e l t i n g r e d i e n t s 1-7 t o g e t h e r . Heat w a t e r t o 70-75C and add i n g r e d i e n t s 8-10. Add o i l phase t o w a t e r phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool w i t h m i x i n g t o 40C. Add f r a g r a n c e / d y e i f n e c e s s a r y . R e f . No. 119-103 Hand and Body Cream T h i c k e m o l l i e n t c a t i o n i c cream f o r e x t r e m e l y d r y s k i n . Ingredients: 1. Ritaderm ( R . I . T . A . Blend) 2 . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) Stearamidoe t h y l - D i e t h y l a m i n e (Lexemul A R ) 3 . R i t a IPM ( I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ) 4 . Mineral O i l 5. Propylparaben 6 . G1 y c e r i ne 7 . Methylparaben 8 . D i s t i 11 e d / D e i o n i zed Water

e 2.00 10.00 7.00 3.00 0.05 2 00 0.15 75.80 I

Function Moi s t u r i z e r Cationic Emu1 s i f i e r Emoll ie n t Feel Preservative Humectant Preservative

----

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : M e l t i n g r e d i e n t s 1-5 t o g e t h e r . I n a s e p a r a t e beaker h e a t i n g r e d i e n t s 6-8 t o 70C. Add o i l i n g r e d i e n t s t o w a t e r m i x t u r e s l o w l y w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M i x w e l l u n t i l e m u l s i o n s e t s . F i l l i n t o d e s i r e d package. R e f . No. 119-105A SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:

S k i n Care F o r m u l a r y

184

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hand Cream Soft cream, easily spread and well absorbed. Material/CTFA-Index: A . P o l y e t h y l e n g l y k o l 400/PEG-8 Isopropyl Myri s t a t e C e t y l A1 coho1 B e l s i l CM 1 0 0 0 / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a . ) D i m e t h i c o n o l Stearic Acid B : T r i e t h a n o l ami ne P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Glycerine Water

2.00% 3.00 1.oo 20.00 2.00 0.50 4.50 2.00 65.00

P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume, pigments 9,s. Heat A and 8 t o 80-85C, s t i r B i n t o A w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C more t h a n 8 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 638 AH Skin Cream Material/CTFA-Index: A : H o s t a c e r i n WO/Polyglyceryl-2 S e s q u i i s o s t e a r a t e (and) Beeswax ( a n d ) M i n e r a l O i l ( a n d ) Magnesium S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) A1 umi num S t e a r a t e B e l s i 1 CM 1 0 0 0 / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) D i m e t h i c o n o l Isopropyl Palmitate 8 : Water P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume, pigments

10.00% 10.00 10.00 70.00 q.s.

W/O cream Heat A and B t o 75-8OC. S t i r B i n t o A . T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C 6 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 694 AH Skin-care Cream Material/CTFA-Index: A : H o s t a c e r i n C G / T r i l a n e t h - 4 Phosphate ( a n d ) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) PEG-6 Oleamide ( a n d ) Sodium C14-17 A l k y l sec S u l f o n a t e 5.00% B e l s i l CM 1 0 0 0 / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a . ) D i m e t h i c o n 0 1 6.00 Isopropyl Palmitate 4.00 B : H o s t a c e r i n PN 7 3 / A c r y l a m i d e / S o d i u m A c r y l a t e Copolymer 0.20 Water 84.80 P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume, pigments q.s. M i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f 8, h e a t A and B t o 75-8OC. into A. Temperature s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C more t h a n 10 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 705 AH

SOURCE: Wacker

Silicone:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

S t i r B

Creams

185

"Light and White" Day Cream The c o m b i n a t i o n o f Dow C o r n i n g s i l i c o n e s p r o v i d e s t h e s k i n w i t h b e n e f i t s such a s : n o n - o i l y , e m o l l i e n c y (DC 5 5 6 ) , h i g h l y s p r e a d a b l e p r o d u c t (DC 3 3 4 ) , s u b s t a n t i v i t y and s i l k y f e e l (DC 1403); w/o c o l d p r o c e s s e d e m u l s i o n , g l o s s y smooth and s t a b l e (DC 5200). Inqredients: A . Dow C o r n i n g 5200 Dow C o r n i n g 344 Dow C o r n i n g 556 Amerchol 1 - 1 0 1 Camelia O i l C o p h e r o l 1250 C o v i o x T-70P 0 . Propylene Glycol EDTA D i s o d i um Sodium C h l o r i d e C o v i o x T-30 P r o n a l en F r u i t A c i d s AHA-20 AMP-95 Suttocide A Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) Chinese W h i t e Tuckahoe C . Dow C o r n i n g 1403 Perf. Jingle

% b y Weiaht 2.00 5.00 1-00 2.00 8.00 1.oo 0.10 3.00 0.20 2.00 0.10 3.00 0.30 0.80 63.30 3.00 5.00 0.20

N o t e : Check p H o f w a t e r phase ( s h o u l d b e a r o u n d 5 . 0 ) and c o r r e c t w i t h AMP-95, i f n e c e s s a r y . Procedure: 1 . M i x i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase A and B i n s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r s (make s u r e t o c o r r e c t pH o f w a t e r phase b e f o r e p r o c e e d i n g f u r t h e r ) . 2 . W i t h h i g h speed s t i r r i n g , add s m a l l amount o f w a t e r phase (10/0-2%) t o o i l phase and m i x u n t i l p r i m a r y e m u l s i o n i s formed. 3 . T r a n s f e r e m u l s i o n t o p r o p e l l e r s t i r r e r and s t a r t a d d i n g w a t e r phase s l o w l y and c o n s t a n t l y w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h a v e r a g e speed. 4. When w h o l e o f w a t e r phase i s used add i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase C one a f t e r a n o t h e r w i t h s l o w m i x i n g . 5. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y i s a c h i e v e d , s t o p m i x i n g , t a k e sample t o QC and when a p p r o v e d pack t h e p r o d u c t .

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y : F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0310 s u g g e s t e d by Dow C o r n i n g

186

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Light Body Cream Inaredient: 1 C u t i n a FS45 2 C e g e s o f t C24 3 L o r o l C16 4 L o r o l C18 5 C u t i n a MD 6 Dow C o r n i n g F l u i d 345 7 C a r b o p o l 980 8 KOH (20%) 9 P r e s e r v a t ive 10 Water

o/,w/w 3.0 7.0 1. o 1.o 1.o 0.25 0.1 1.2 q.s. t o 100.0

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a l i g h t w e i g h t O / W s k i n cream w i t h a s l i g h t l y t r a n s l u c e n t appearance. The f i r s t f i v e components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Component 7 i s d i s s o l v e d i n h a l f o f t h e w a t e r , w i t h t h e Component 8 b e i n g d i s s o l v e d i n t h e o t h e r h a l f . Both p o r t i o n s o f w a t e r a r e t h e n h e a t e d t o 85C and m i x e d . The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. Formula TS 498 Moisturising Enrichment Cream Inaredient: 1 C u t i n a FS45 2 C e g e s o f t C24 3 L o r o l C16 4 L o r o l C18 5 C u t i n a MD 6 H y g r o p l e x HHG 7 KOH (20%) 8 Preservative 9 Water

%*y 4.0 10.0 1.5 1.5 3.0 4.0 1.5

q.s. t o 100.0

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a heavy w e i g h t O/W s k i n cream. The f i r s t f i v e components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Component 6 i s d i s s o l v e d i n h a l f o f t h e w a t e r , w i t h t h e Component 7 b e i n g d i s s o l v e d i n t h e o t h e r h a l f . B o t h p o r t i o n s o f w a t e r a r e t h e n h e a t e d t o 85C and m i x e d . The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. Formula T S 499

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: S k i n Care P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

187

Light Emollient Cream Ingredient: w/w 2.2 1 S t e n o l 16-65 2 Monomuls 60-35 5.0 3 Eumulgin B2 3.0 4 C e t i o l SB45 5.1 5 M y r i t o l 318 10.0 6 Preservative q.s. 7 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a l i g h t w e i g h t O/W Cream w i t h good emol 1 ience. The f i r s t f i v e components a r e h e a t e d t o g e t h e r t o 85C. The w a t e r i s a l s o h e a t e d t o t h i s t e m p e r a t u r e . The o i l phase can t h e n be added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. Formula T S 374 Almond Oil Cream Ingredient: 1 E u m u l g i n 82 3.0 2 Monomuls 60-35 3.1 3 Novata AB 4.8 4 Almond O i l 10.2 5 L o r o l C16 2.05 6 L o r o l C18 2.05 7 Preservative q.s. 8 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a s t i f f O/W Cream, w i t h good s p r e a d i n g and a r i c h f e e l . The f i r s t s i x components a r e h e a t e d t o g e t h e r t o 85C. The w a t e r i s a l s o h e a t e d t o 85C. The o i l phase can t h e n be added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o about 35C. Formula TS 415 Almond Oil Cream with Protein Ingredient: %w/w 1 Eumulgin 82 3.0 2 Monomuls 60-35 3.1 4.5 3 C e t i o l 5645 4 Almond O i l 10.2 5 S i p o l 16-18 C50 4.1 6 G l u a d i n AGP 1.o 7 Preservative q.s. 8 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a s t i f f O/W Cream, w i t h good s p r e a d i n g and a r i c h f e e l . The f i r s t f i v e components a r e h e a t e d t o g e t h e r t o 85C. Component s i x i s d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r and t h i s m i x t u r e i s a l s o h e a t e d t o 85C. The o i l phase can t h e n be added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. Formula T S 416

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: S k i n Care P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

188

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Light Enrichment Cream

%w/w

Inqredi ent: 1 Monomuls 90-0 18 2 Lameform TGI 3 Cetiol A 4 S i p o l 1618 C50 5 Beeswax 6 Zinc stearate 7 Magnesi um s u l p h a t e 8 Glycerine 9 Preservative 10 Water

2.0 4.0 21 . o 1 .o 3.0

2.0 1 .o 3.0 q.s. t o 100.0

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a l i g h t W/O cream w i t h good e m o l l i e n c e . The f i r s t s i x components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Components 7 8 8 a r e d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r and t h i s m i x t u r e i s t h e n h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e as t h e o i l phase. The w a t e r phase i s t h e n added t o t h e o i l phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. The p r o d u c t s h o u l d t h e n be homogenised f u l l y u s i n g a T r i p l e R o l l M i l l . Formula TS 464 Daily Nourishing Cream Inqredient: 1 Emulgade SE 2 Cetiol A 3 C e t i o l Si345 4 S i p o l 1618 C50 5 Novata AB 6 White S o f t P a r a f f i n 7 Liquid Paraffin (Light) 8 S i l i c o n e O i l MlOO 9 Glycerine 10 P r e s e r v a t i ve 1 1 Water

%w/w 8.0 11

.o

4.0 0.5 2.0

1 .o 8.0 0.5 3.0 q.s. t o 100.0

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a r i c h O/W cream w i t h good emo 1 ience and a v e r v smooth s k i n f e e l The f i r s t e i g h t components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Component 9 i s d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r and t h i s m i x t u r e i s t h e n h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e as t h e o i l phase. The w a t e r phase i s t h e n added t o t h e o i l phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l u c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 3%. Formula TS 465

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: S k i n Care P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

189

Make-up Cream O/W

"/ow/w I

Emulgade F L a n e t t e 16 Cetiol V P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous Wool f a t , a n h y d r o u s Pigment c o l o r s

I 1 1,2-propylene

glycol

5.00 1 .oo 1.75 0.50 41.75

L u v i s k o l K30 Veegum C i t r i c acid Water F o r m u l a No.

1.oo

2.00 10.00 25.00 2.00 10.00

P11-01 Make-up Cream O/W

s/ow/w I

L a n e t t e 16 S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2 SM E u m u l g i n 05 Isopropyl myri s t a t e P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous Pigment c o l o r s

I 1 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e NG Veegum s o l u t i o n 4% Water

2.0 4.0 2.0

12.0 6.0 8.0 0.4 30.0 33.6

P r e p a r a t i o n : The p i g m e n t s a r e m i x e d w i t h p a r t o f t h e f i n i s h e d e m u l s i o n , homogenized and s t i r r e d i n t o t h e r e s t o f t h e e m u l s i o n . F o r m u l a No. P11-02 Make-up Cream O/W

I

C u t i n a KD 16 E u m u l g i n B1 Eutanol G Isopropyl myri s t a t e P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous P i gment c o l o r s

I 1 Veegum s o l u t i o n 4% Water S e t pH t o 7 F o r m u l a No. P11-03

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

8.0 1. o 4.0 4.0 2.0 8.0

35.0 38.0

190

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Massage Cream O/W

%w/w I

Lanette 16 Cuti na MD E u m u l g i n B1 E u m u l g i n B2 M y r i t o l 318 Paraffin o i l , h i g h viscous

II Water

2.0 12.0 2.0 2.0 10.0 25.0 47.0

Formula No. H11-01 Massage Cream W/O I

Dehymuls K M y r i t o l 318 Paraffin o i l , h i g h viscous

II Water

%W/W 25.6 15.0 15.0 45.0

Formula No. H11-02 Massage Cream, Anhydrous, Removable by Washing %W/W

Amphoceri n K E u m u l g i n B2 Cetiol LC Paraffin o i l , h i g h viscous V a s e l i n e , white

43.0 2.0 15.0 15.0 25.0

Note: This cream is an example of an anhydrous massage preparat i o n . Such fatty creams are n o r m a l l y more d i f f i c u l t to wash off the s k i n ; t h i s formulation is, however, removable due to the a d d i t i o n of E u m u l g i n B2. F o r m u l a No. H11-03 Massage Oil

%w/w Cetiol LC Myritol 318 Paraffin o i l , h i g h viscous F o r m u l a No. H31-01 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

18.0 37.0 45.0

Creams

191

Moisture Cream Ingredients: Phase A : H20, D e i o n i z e d Carbopol 934 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l M e t h y l Paraben

% 70.50 0.20 2.00 0.25

Phase B : H e s t CSO ( C e t e a r y l O c t a n o a t e ) G1 y c e r y l S t e a r a t e Hetoxamate 100s (PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) Hetan SS ( S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e ) Lanol i n H e t o x i d e HC-40 (PEG-40 H y d r o g e n a t e d C a s t o r O i l ) Jojoba O i l Mineral O i l Hetoxol G ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l & C e t e a r e t h 20) D i m e t h i c o n e 350 P r o p y l Paraben

5.00 2.00 2.00 2.50 0.50 0.50 1.75 2.00 0.60 0 50 0.15

Phase C : TEA 99%

0.25

Phase 0 : H20, D e i o n i z e d G e r m a l l 115

0.30

I

1 .oo

Procedure: I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e equipped w i t h a L i g h t n i n ' t y p e m i x e r , add w a t e r . W i t h m i x e r on h i g h , s l o w l y s p r i n k l e C a r b o p o l 934 i n t o v o r t e x . Mix u n t i l uniform. Heat t o 75C, add r e m a i n d e r o f Phase A . I n a s e p a r a t e k e t t l e , add Phase B, h e a t t o 75C w h i l e m i x i n g u n t i l uniform. Add Phase B t o Phase A . Mix w h i l e avoiding aeration. Add Phase C , m i x w e l l . Cool t o 45C and s w i t c h t o p l a n e t a r y m i x e r . Add p r e m i x Phase 0 . M i x t o 25-3OC. Specifications: pH: 6 . 5 0 V i s c o s i t y , # 4 / 3 RPM:

120, 000 c p s

SOURCE: H e t e r e n e , I n c . :

Formula HC91-39

192

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisture Cream In q r e d i en t s : Phase A : H20, D e i o n i z e d Carbopol 934 H e s t L-2-0 ( L a u r e t h - 2 - O c t a n o a t e ) M e t h y l Paraben Phase 8 : Cetyl Alcohol H e t o x o l P (Emu1 s i f y i ng Wax) P r o p y l Paraben Phase C : T E A 99% H20, D e i o n i z e d Phase D : I m i d a z o l id i n y l Urea H20, D e i o n i z e d

% 70.25 0.25 8.50 0.25 3.50 6.50 0.15 0.30 5.00

0.30 5.00

Specifications: pH: 6 . 1 0 V i s c o s i t y #4/12: 42,500 c p s Procedure: 1 ) I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e , add H20. Premix Hest L-2-0 w i t h Carbopol 934 and add t o H20 w h i l e m i x i n g u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . Add m e t h y l paraben and h e a t t o 75C. 2 ) I n a s e p a r a t e k e t t l e , combine Phase B and h e a t t o 75C w h i l e m i x i ng. 3 ) Add Phase B t o Phase A w h i l e m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . 4) Add Premix Phase C t o b a t c h . 5 ) Cool t o 40C and add p r e m i x Phase D . M i x we1 1 . Formula HC 93-96-4 Moisture Cream Inqredients: Phase A : H20, D e i o n i z e d H e t o x i d e G-26 ( G l y c e r e t h - 2 6 ) Phase B : Hest MS ( M y r i s t y l S t e a r a t e ) Hest G-7-TO ( G l y c e r e t h - 7 T r i o c t a n o a t e ) Hetoxol D (Cetearyl Alcohol & Ceteareth-20) Phase C : Germaben I 1

% 81 . o o 4.00 4.50 4.00 5.50 1.oo

Procedure: 1 ) I n s e p a r a t e s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e s , add Phase A and Phase 8 . 2) Heat t o 75C w h i l e m i x i n g . 3 ) Add Phase B t o Phase A . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. 4) Cool t o 40C and add Phase C . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Formula HC 93-118-1

SOURCE: H e t e r e n e ,

I n c . : Suggested Formulas

Creams

193

Moisture Cream for Dry Skin Ingredients: % Phase A: H20, Deionized 73.30 Keltrol T 0.20 Propylene Glycol 5.00 Phase 8 : H e s t CSO ( C e t e a r y l O c t a n o a t e ) 12.00 Hetoxamate SA-40 (PEG-40 S t e a r a t e ) 3.00 H e t o l CS ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 2.75 PEG 150 D i s t e a r a t e 0.25 Glyceryl Stearate 2.50 Phase C : Germaben I 1 1 .oo Speci f i c a t i ons: pH: 6.40 Procedure: 1) I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e equipped w i t h a L i g h t n i n ' t y p e m i x e r , add H20. 2 ) W i t h m i x e r on h i g h , s p r i n k l e K e l t r o l T i n t o v o r t e x u n t i l completely dispersed. 3 ) Add p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l , h e a t t o 75C. 4 ) I n a s e p a r a t e k e t t l e add Phase B, h e a t t o 75C. 5 ) A t 75C add Phase B t o Phase A . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. 6 ) Cool t o 45C, add Phase C, m i x w e l l . Phase HC92-38-1

Oil Free Night Cream % I n a r e d ie n t s : Phase A : H20, D e i o n i z e d 69.35 Sorbi to1 2.50 M e t h y l Paraben 0.25 TEA 99% 1-00 Phase 0: G1 y c e r y l S t e a r a t e 3.70 H e s t MS ( M y r i s t y l S t e a r a t e ) 3.00 4.00 Stearic Acid H e t o l CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 1.75 Panal ene 1.oo H e s t CSO ( C e t e a r y l O c t a n o a t e ) 10.00 P r o p y l Paraben 0.15 Phase C : H20, D e i o n i z e d 3.00 G e r m a l l 115 0.30 Specifications: pH: 7 . 2 5 Procedure: 1) I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e equipped w i t h a L i g h t n i n ' t y p e m i x e r , combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n Phase A and h e a t t o 75C. 2 ) I n a s e p a r a t e k e t t l e combine Phase B and h e a t t o 75C. 3 ) A t 75C add Phase B t o Phase A. 4 ) Cool t o 45C add p r e m i x Phase C . M i x we1 1 . F o r m u l a HC-92-65-3 SOURCE: H e t e r e n e , I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a s

194

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisturizing Cream White firm cream. Produces a pleasant soft feeling on the skin Material/CTFA-Index: A : Emulgator E2155/Stearyl Alcohol (and) Steareth- (and) Steareth-10 8.00% C e t i o l SN/Cetearyl Alcohol Isononanoate 6.00 6.00 Isopropyl Myri s t a t e Tegosoft 189/Isooctadecyl Isononanoate 6.00 Stearyl Alcohol 2.00 B e l s i 1 SDM 6 0 2 2 / D i m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) S t e a r o x y D i m e t h y l s i l a n e (and) Stearoxy D i m e t h y l d i s i l o x a n e 5.00 B: Water 62.00 2.00 B e l s i 1 DMC 6 0 3 2 / D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l A c e t a t e G1 y c e r ine 3.00 Preservatives, fragrances, pigments q.s. Heat A and B each t o 75C. S t i r 8 i n t o A , s t i r c o l d . T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 418 AH

Emollient Cream White firm cream. A slightly cooling effect Material/CTFA-Index: A : A r l a c e l 1 6 5 / G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e se A r l a m o l E/PPG-15 S t e a r y l e t h e r Cetyl Alcohol Vase1 i n e / P e t r o l a t u m B e l s i 1 PDM PO/Phenyl D i m e t h i cone B: S o r b i t o 1 7 0 % i g / S o r b i t o 1 Water Preservatives, fragrances, pigments Heat A t o 70C, h e a t B t o 72C. S t i r B i n t o A, T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 405 AH

6.00% 3.00 5.00 3.00 2.00 10.00 71 . O O q.s. s t i r cold.

Day Cream Soft white cream. Absorbed well, slightly cooling effect. L a n e t t e N / C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) Sodium C e t e a r y l Sulfate Eutanol G/Octyldedecanol B e l s i 1 DM 35O/Dimethi cone B e l s i l PDM PO/Phenyl D i m e t h i c o n e B; G l y c e r i n e Water P r e s e r v a t i v e s , f r a g r a n c e s , p i gments

A:

Heat A and B each t o 70C. S t i r B i n t o A . S t i r c o l d T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 404 AH

SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

15.00% 5.00 10.00 2.00 5.00 63.00 q.s.

195

Creams

Moisturizing Cream Inaredient : 1 Eumulgin 82 2 Eumulgin B1 3 C u t i n a MD 4 C e t i o l MU 5 L o r o l C16 6 L o r o l C18 7 M y r i t o l 318 8 Paraffin o i l 9 White S o f t P a r a f f i n 10 S i l i c o n e O i l M l O O 11 P r e s e r v a t i v e 12 Water

%w/w 1.5 1.5 3.5 5.0 1.75 1.75 8.0 11 . o 14.0 0.5 q.s. t o 100.0

This formulation gives a high v i s c o s i t y , r i c h moisturising s k i n cream. The f i r s t t e n components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. The w a t e r i s t h e n h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e . The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 30C. To a c h i e v e t h e optimum v i s c o s i t y , m i x i n g must be c o n t i n u e d u n t i l t h e p r o d u c t has f u l l y c o o l e d down. Formula TS 496

O/W

O.T.C. Type Moisturizing Cream Inqredient: 1 E u m u l g i n 82 2 Eumulgin 81 3 C u t i n a MD 4 Novata AB 5 S i p o l 1618 C50 6 M y r i t o l 318 7 Paraffin o i l 8 White S o f t P a r a f f i n 9 Silicone O i l MlOO 10 P r e s e r v a t i v e 11 Water

%w/w 1.5 1.5 3.5 5.0

3.5 8.0 11 . o 14.0 1.o q.s t o 100.0

This formulation gives a high v i s c o s i t y , r i c h moisturising s k i n cream. The f i r s t t e n components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. The w a t e r i s t h e n h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e . The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 30C. To a c h i e v e t h e optimum v i s c o s i t y , m i x i n g must be c o n t i n u e d u n t i l t h e p r o d u c t has f u l l y c o o l e d down. Formula TS 497

O/W

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S k i n Care P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

1%

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisturizing Protective Day Care Cream %w/w Inaredient : 1 C u t i n a MD 7.0 2 S t e n o l 16-65 2.0 3 Eumulgin B2 3.0 4 Eutanol G 3.0 5 C e t i o l SN 7.0 6 C e t i o l SB45 5.0 7 H y g r o p l e x HHG CLR 4.0 8 Preservative q.s. 9 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s an O/W cream w h i c h g i v e s a c t i v e moisturising. The f i r s t s i x components a r e h e a t e d t o g e t h e r t o 85C. Component seven i s d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r and t h i s m i x t u r e i s a l s o h e a t e d t o 85C. The o i l phase i s t h e n m i x e d i n t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. F o r m u l a T S 26 5 Light Everyday Cream o/aw/w Ingredient: 5.9 1 C u t i n a MD 2.1 2 S t e n o l 16-65 3.0 3 E u m u l g i n E2 4.8 4 C e t i o l SB45 10.0 5 C e t i o l SN q.s. 6 Preservative t o 100.0 7 Water T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s an O/W Cream w i t h good e m o l l i e n c e . The f i r s t f i v e components a r e h e a t e d t o g e t h e r t o 85C. The w a t e r i s a l s o h e a t e d t o t h i s t e m p e r a t u r e . The o i l phase can t h e n be added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. Formula TS 369 Everyday Moisturizing Cream Ingredient: o/ow/w 1 C u t i n a MD 4.1 2 S t e n o l 16-65 1.1 3 Eumulgin 82 3.0 4 C e t i o l SB45 5.0 5 C e t i o l SN 9.0 6 H y g r o p l e x HHG 2.0 7 Preservative q.s. 8 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s an O/W Cream w i t h e f f e c t i v e m o i s t u r i s i ng. The f i r s t f i v e components a r e h e a t e d t o g e t h e r t o 85C. Component s i x i s i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h e w a t e r , and t h i s m i x t u r e i s a l s o h e a t e d t o 85C. The o i l phase can t h e n b e added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35c. Formula TS 370 SOURCE: Henkel K G a A : S k i n Care P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

197

Moisturizing Body Cream A m o i s t u r i z i n g body cream f o r m u l a t o h e l p a l l e v i a t e s k i n d r y n e s s , roughness and c h a p p i n g . Inaredients : %w/w F u n c t i on Emulsifier 1 . R i t a c h o l 1000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 3.00 Emul s i f ie r 2 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 3.00 3. R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) V i scosi t y 1 .50 4. R i t a S t e a r i c - A c i d Emul s i f ie r 2.25 5 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n Alcohol ) E m o l l ie n t 2.00 M o i s t u r e Base 6. Ritaderm ( R . I . T . A . Blend) 10.00 4.00 7. Mineral O i l Slip Anti -oxidant 8 . BHT 0.10 Preservative 9. Propylparaben 0.10 S t a b i 1 it y 1 0 , A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer 940) 0.10 ---1 1 . D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed w a t e r 68.25 Humectant 12. G1 y c e r i ne 5.00 P r e s e r v a t i ve 13.Methylparaben 0.10 1 4 . T r i e t h a n o l ami n e @ 50% Neutralizer 0.20 0.20 Preservative 1 5 . G1 y d a n t 0.20 16.Perfume Odor Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Weigh i t e m s 1-9 i n t o b e a k e r and h e a t t o 70C w i t h s t i r r i n g . To t h e w a t e r add i t e m # l o and s t i r u n t i l lump f r e e . Add i t e m s 12 and 13 and h e a t u n t i l 70C. Add o i l ohase t o w a t e r ohase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add i t e m 14 and s t i r w e l l . Cool o 40C and add remaining items. R e f . No. 119-84 Every Day Hand Cream An e v e r y d a y med urn s t r e n g t h hand cream w t h e m o l l i e n t s y s t e m d e s i aned t o v a n i s h q u i c k l y on t h e s k i n Ingredients: %w/w F u n c t i o n Emul s i on 1 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 2.00 S t a b i 1iz e r Emulsifier 2 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 3.00 Moisture 3. Mineral O i l 2.00 Emulsifier 1.50 4. R i t a S t e a r i c Acid Feel 5 . P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l D i o c t a n o a t e ( L e x o l Preservative 2.00 PG 8 0 0 ) Humectant 6. Propylparaben 0.05 Neutral 7. Glycerine 1 .50 iz e r 8 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 13 100% 0.30 0.15 Preservative 9 . Methylparaben ---87.50 l O . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water ComDoundina P r o c e d u r e : M e l t i n g r e d i e n t s 1 - 6 . Heat w a t e r t o 70-75C. Add i t e m s 7-9 t o t h e w a t e r . Add o i l phase t o w a t e r phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l 40C. R e f . No. 119-104

SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

C o r p . : S k i n Care F o r m u l a r y

198

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisturizing Cream O/W

%w/w I

C u t i n a MO E u m u l g i n 81 Eumulgin 82 Cetiol V M y r i t o l 318 Paraffin o i l ,

16.0 1.5 1.5 h i g h viscous

I 1 H y g r o p l e x HHG 1,2-propylene Water

glycol

5.0 5.0 2.0

5.0 5.0 59.0

Formula A14-01 Moisturizing Cream O/W

%w/w I

C u t i n a K D 16 E u m u l g i n 81 Eutanol G Isopropyl Myristate P a r a f f i n o i l , h i g h viscous

I 1 H y g r o p l e x HHG K a r i o n F, l i q u i d Water

16.0

I

.o

12.0 8.0 4.0 5.0

8.0 46.0

N o t e : S o f t c o n s i s t e n c y , easy t o a p p l y Formula No. A 14-02 Moisturizing Cream O/W

%w/w I

Oehymuls K Cetiol V Beeswax Vegetable o i 1

I 1 H y g r o p l e x HHG Magnesi um s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water Formula No. A14-03

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

20.0 10.0 3.0 10.0 5.0 0.2 51 . E

Creams

199

Moisturizing Cream T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n demonstrates a p o l y m e r i c approach t o occlusive moisturization eliminating undesirable f e e l properties o f petrolatum or other t r a d i t i o n a l occlusive ingredients E p o l e n e N-34 Wax i s a n o n - e m u l s i f i a b l e p o l y e t h y l e n e w h i c h provides a f i l m t h a t i s r e s i s t a n t t o wash-off I t i s incorpo r a t e d i n t o t h i s e m u l s i o n w i t h Eastman AQ 5 5 w a t e r - d i s p e r s i b l e p o l y e s t e r w h i c h a l s o c o n t r i b u t e s a p r o t e c t i v e f i l m The w a s h - o f f r e s i s t a n c e i s due t o t h e i n a b i l i t y o f E p o l e n e N-34 t o be e m u l s i f i e d b y soap o r s u r f a c t a n t s The d u a l f i l m - f o r m i n g a c t i o n o f t h i s p o l y m e r c o m b i n a t i o n h a s been shown t o r e d u c e m o i s t u r e loss I n v i t r o o c c l u s i v i t y data i s desirable Phase A : D i s t i 11 ed w a t e r Propylene g l y c o l ,

Q/,W/W

USP

9 , s . t o 100 4.00

Phase B : Polawax e m u l s i f y i n g wax, NF A r l a c e l 1 6 5 g l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e and P E G - 1 0 0 s t e a r a t e Myverol 18-06 d i s t i l l e d monoglyceride Isopropyl myris t a t e Robane s q u a l a n e , NF E p o l e n e N-34 p o l y e t h y l e n e wax Phase C : D i s t i 1l e d w a t e r Propylene g l y c o l Eastman AQ 55s p o l y m e r

3.00 3.00 3.00 5.00 5.00 1

.oo

10.00 3.00 1 .oo

Phase D: Eastman v i t a m i n E TPGS ( 2 0 % )

1

.oo

Phase E : Fragrance Preservative Procedure: 1 . P r e p a r e Phase C b y a d d i n g p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l t o w a t e r and h e a t i n g t o 95C and t h e n a d d i n g Eastman AQ 5 5 5 w i t h m i x i n g . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 70C. 2 . Heat Phase A w i t h m i x i n g t o 95C. 3 . Heat Phase B w i t h m i x i n g t o 1 0 5 - l l O C . 4 . Cool Phase B t o 95C and add t o Phase A w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x i n g . 5 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 70C, a v o i d i n g a i r e n t r a p m e n t . 6 . A t 70C, add Phase C . 7 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C; t h e n add Phase D and Phase E . 8 . W i t h m i x i n g , f o r c e c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . P r o d u c t w i l l t h i c k e n and f o r m a cream a t 44C. pH:

5.5

SOURCE:

Eastman Chemical C o . :

F o r m u l a t i o n X20491-069

200

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisturizing Skin Cream This t r a d i t i o n a l formulation i s a r i c h , s u i t a b l e f o r the treatment o f d r y skin.

s t i f f cream w h i c h i s

Inaredi ent: P a r t A: Dei o n i zed Water Carbopol 934 ( 1 )

Weight%

Propylene Glycol Methylparaben Propylparaben

4-00 0.15 0.05

60.90

0.20

P a r t B: Mineral O i l Isopropyl Palmitate G1 y c o l S t e a r a t e

18.00 5.00 5.00

Function

Di 7 uent Emulsion S t a b i 1 iz e r Humectant Preservative Preservative Moi s t u r e B a r r i e r Emoll ie n t Secondary Emulsifier Primary Emulsi f ie r S t r u c t u r i ng Agent Primary Emu1 s i f ie r

Stearic Acid

2.00

Cetyl Alcohol

2.00

P o l y s o r b a t e 20

0.80

Part C: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

1.80

Neutralizing Agent

Part D: Quaternium-15

0.10

Preservative

(2)

( 1 ) Carbomer (BFGoodrich) ( 2 ) D o w i c i l 200 (Dow C h e m i c a l ) Preparation: 1 . Charge w a t e r t o a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e formu l a t i o n . S l o w l y s i f t Carbopol i n t o t h e v o r t e x o f r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d w a t e r . When r e s i n has been d i s p e r s e d , r e d u c e m i x i n g r a t e . Heat t o 60C. 2 . D i s s o l v e parabens i n t h e p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l . Add t h i s s o l u t i o n t o t h e Carbopol d i s p e r s i o n . 3 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , combine a l l P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 60C. 4 . When P a r t s A and B a r e homogeneous, add B t o A w i t h v i g o r ous a g i t a t i o n . 5 . Add P a r t C . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and remove h e a t . 6 . Add P a r t D @ 40-45C. When t e m p e r a t u r e r e a c h e s 35-40C, s t o p a g i t a t i o n and f i l l c o n t a i n e r s .

SOURCE: BF

Goodrich

Co.: Formula COO20

Creams

201

Nail Care Cream W/O

%w/w I Dehymuls E Cetiol V

C u t i n a 8W Vase1 ine, w h i t e Avocado o i l C L R C a r r o t o i l CLR O i l o f S t . J o h n ' s w o r t CLR I 1 Water

10.0 12.0 3.0 15.0 5.0 2.0 3.0 50.0

Formulae No. A15-10 Cucumber Juice Cream O/W

%w/w I

C u t i n a MD Eumulgin 61 Eutanol G M y r i t o l 318

I1

1,2-propylene Water

16.0 3.0 15.0 10.0 glycol

5.0 48.0

I 1 1 E x t r a p o n cucumber s p e c .

3.0

P r e p a r a t i o n : Phase I11 i s added t o t h e e m u l s i o n a t 40C Formula No. A15-11 Alcohol Cream O/W I C u t i n a MD

Eumulgin 51 Cetiol V Garbopol 934 E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% I 1 T r i ethanolami ne

Water

4.0 1.o 5.0 1.o

45.0 1.5 42.5

P r e p a r a t i o n : W h i l s t s t i r r i n g , Carbopol 934 i s a l l o w e d t o s w e l l i n 40 p a r t s e t h y l a l c o h o l and a b o u t h a l f o f t h e w a t e r . The g e l p r o d u c e d i s n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e w h i c h has been mixed e a r l i e r w i t h t h e r e m a i n i n g 5 p a r t s o f e t h y l a l c o h o l . The s o l i d s and t h e r e s t o f t h e w a t e r a r e p r o c e s s e d t o f o r m a cream and s t i r r e d t o g e t h e r w i t h t h e g e l b e f o r e b e i n g p e r f u m e d and homogenized. Formula No. A15-12

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

202

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Night Cream InQredi ents: Phase A : H20, D e i o n i z e d C a r b o p o l 934 Propylene Glycol M e t h y l Paraben H e t o x i d e G-26 ( G l y c e r e t h 26)

59.85 0.35 2.50 0.30 2.00

Phase 8 : Lanol i n M i n e r a l O i l #7 Hetoxamate SA-100 (PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) Glyceryl Stearate S i 1 i c o n e SF-1173 Panal ene H e s t CSO ( C e t e a r y l O c t a n o a t e ) Hetoxamate SA-40 (PEG-40 S t e a r a t e ) Cetyl Alcohol H e t o x o l L-4 ( L a u r e t h - 4 ) H e s t MS ( M y r i s t y 1 S t e a r a t e ) P r o p y l Paraben

1 .oo 9.00 1.25 1.25 2.50 1.25 4.40 1-90 1.80 1.80 3.00 0.15

Phase C : TEA 99% H20, D e i o n i z e d

0.55

1 .oo

Phase D : Vitamin E Acetate A l o e Vera E x t r a c t E l a s t i n CLR Almond E x t r a c t

0.60

1 .oo

1 .oo 0.25

Phase E : G e r m a l l 115 H20, D e i o n i z e d

0.30 1.00

Specifications: pH: 7 . 0 0 Procedure: 1) I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e equipped w i t h a L i g h t n i n ' t y p e m i x e r , add H20. 2 ) W i t h m i x e r on h i g h , s l o w l y s p r i n k l e C a r b o p o l 934 i n t o v o r t e x . Mix u n t i l uniform. 3 ) B e g i n h e a t i n g t o 75C, add Phase A. 4 ) I n a s e p a r a t e k e t t l e , combine o i l Phase B and h e a t t o 75C w h i l e mixing, u n t i l completely melted. 5 ) S l o w l y add Phase B t o Phase A w h i l e m i x i n g u n t i l homogeneous. 6 ) Add P r e m i x Phase C . M i x w e l l . A v o i d i n g a e r a t i o n , b e g i n c o o l ing 7 ) A t 45C add r e m a i n d e r o f i n g r e d i e n t s , m i x w e l l .

.

SOURCE: H e t e r e n e , I n c , :

F o r m u l a HC 92-59-3

203

Creams

Night Cream O/W "/.W

I

C u t i n a MD S i e g e r t S t e a r i n LZSM E u m u l g i n B1 E u m u l g i n B2 Eutanol G C u t i n a BW P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous

1.B

4.0 8.0 1.5 1.5 15.0 2.0 20.0 0.2 47.8

I I T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Water

N o t e : H i g h - f a t t i n g n i g h t cream w i t h a medium s o f t c o n s i s t e n c y . " C o l d cream" t y p e . F o r m u l a No. A12-01

Night Cream O/W %W/W

I

1. o 14.0 1.5 1.5 10.0 10.0

L a n e t t e 16 C u t i na MD E u m u l g i n 81 E u m u l g i n B2 M y r i t o l 318 C e t i o l LC

62.0

I 1 Water Note: F a t t i n g F o r m u l a No. A12-02

Night Cream O/W I

C u t i n a K D 16 Euranol G M y r i t o l 318 P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous

11 1 , Z - p r o p y l e n e Water

glycol

Note: F a t t i n g F o r m u l a N o . A12-03

SOURCE: Henkel K G a A : C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

%WfW 15.0

12.0 6.0 6.0 5.0 56.0

204

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Night Cream O/W C u t i n a MD Lanette 0 Eumulgin 81 E u m u l g i n B2 N o v a t a AB Eutanol G Paraffin o i l I 1 H e n k e l G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water

I

Note: S o f t consistency, F o r m u l a No. A12-07

%Yf.K

10.0 2.0 1.5

1.5 5.0

10.0 5.0 5.0 60.0

fatting

Care Cream W/O Dehyniuls K Vegetable o i 1 I 1 H e n k e l G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water

I

%W/W 20.0

10.0 5.0

65.0

N o t e : Medi u r n - f a t t i ng F o r m u l a No. A12-08

Cold Cream W/O %W/W 10.0 20.0 20.0

I .Amphocerin E Vegetable o i 1 Vasel in e , w h i t e I 1 \Vater

50.0

N o t e : F a t t i n g , medium s o f t c o n s i s t e n c y F o r m u l a No. A12-09

Care Cream W/O %W/W

Dehymuls E V e g e t a b l e 01 1 Cetiol V C u t i i i a BVJ Vasel i ne, v i h i t e I 1 H e n k e l G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water

I

Note: H i g h - f a t t i n g F o r m u l a N o , A12-10 SOURCE: H e n k e l KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

8.0 20.0 5.0

2.0

10.0 3.0

52.0

Creams

205

Night and Care Cream W/O

%w/w I

Dehymuls E Cetiol V Vegetable o i 1 Vase1 ine, w h i t e

7.0 4.0 20.0 19.0

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water Note: H i g h - f a t t i n g , Formula No. A12-12

5.0 45.0

s o f t consistency

Care Cream W/O

"/ow/W

I

Dehymuls F Novata A B Cetiol V Eutanol G Vegetable o i 1 P a r a f f i n o i l , low viscous

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water

10.0 6.0 8.0 6.0 5.0 4.0 5.0

0.3 55.7

N o t e : T h i s s k i n cream i s an example o f t h e p o s s i b l e uses o f t h e Novata s o l i d t r i g l y c e r i d e s . The a d d i t i o n o f Novata A B enhances t h e o v e r a l l s t r u c t u r e o f t h e cream; i t a l l o w s t h e h y d r o c a r b o n s h a r e s e i t h e r t o b e r e d u c e d o r t o be r e p l a c e d c o m p l e t e l y . The a d d i t i o n o f a maximum o f 6% t r i g l y c e r i d e i m p r o v e s t h e m e l t i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f creams on t h e s k i n . Formua No. A12-14 Skin Cream W/O

I

Dehymuls F Cetiol V Vegetable o i 1 Vaseline, white

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water Note: Medium-fatting Formula A12-15

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

8.0 8.0 5.0 10.0

3.0 0.3 65.7

206

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O.T.C. Type Moisturizing Cream Ingredient: 1 Eumulgin 82 2 E u m u l g i n 81 3 C u t i n a MD 4 N o v a t a AB 5 S i p o l 1 6 18 C50 6 M y r i t o l 318 7 Paraffin o i l 8 White S o f t P a r a f f i n 9 P r e s e r v a t iv e 10 Water

%w/w 1.5 1.5 4.0 5.0 3.0 8.0 11 . o 14.0 q.s. t o 100.0

This formulation gives a high v i s c o s i t y , r i c h moisturising s k i n cream. The f i r s t e i g h t components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. The w a t e r i s t h e n h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e . The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 30C. To a c h i e v e t h e optimum v i s c o s i t y , m i x i n g must be c o n t i n u e d u n t i l t h e p r o d u c t has f u l l y c o o l e d down. Formula TS 494 O/W

O.T.C. Type Moisturizing Cream InQredient: 1 Eumulgin 82 2 Eumulgin 81 3 C u t i n a MD 4 Novata AB 5 S i p o l 1 6 18 C50 6 M y r i t o l 318 7 Paraffin o i l 8 White S o f t P a r a f f i n 9 Preservative 10 Water

%w/w 1.5 1.5 3.5 5.0 3.5 8.0 11 . o 14.0 q.s. t o 100.0

This formulation gives a high v i s c o s i t y , r i c h moisturising O/W s k i n cream. The f i r s t e i g h t components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. The w a t e r i s t h e n h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e . The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 30C. To a c h i e v e t h e optimum v i s c o s i t y , m i x i n g must be c o n t i n u e d u n t i l t h e p r o d u c t has f u l l y c o o l e d down. Formula TS 495

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S k i n Care P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

207

O/W-Collagen-Cream Reci p e : H o s t a p h a t KW 340 N T r i c e t e a r e t h - 4 Phosphate H o s t a c e r i n DGS P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-4 S t e a r a t e Shea B u t t e r M i n e r a l o i 1, low v i s c o s i t y Eutanol G Octyldodecanol Walnut o i l Jojoba o i l Antioxidant C a r b o p o l 980 Carbomer A1 l a n t o i n A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . E t h y l e n d i a m i n e T e t r a a c e t i c Acid-Sodium S a l t C i t r i c a c i d (10% i n w a t e r ) NaOH (10% i n w a t e r ) G1 y c e r i ne Water Preservative Desami do c o l 1 agen Perfume

2.00% 6.00% 2.00% 3.00% 4.00% 3.00% 3.00% q.s. 0.40% 0.20% 0.10%

0.25% 1.60% 3.00% 63.05% q.s. 8.00% 0.40%

Procedure: I M e l t A a t 70C, t h e n add B. I 1 Heat C t o 70C. I 1 1 S t i r I 1 i n t o I. I V S t i r u n t i l cool. V A t 35C add t h e components o f D t o I V . V I Homogeni ze i f n e c e s s a r y . Formula A VI/3607 Hand Cream Reci p e : A Genamin DSAC D i s t e a r y l d i m o n i urn C h l o r i d e H o s t a c e r i n DGS P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-4 S t e a r a t e M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate B Water P r e s e r v a t ive C Perfume Procedure: I M e l t A a t 80C. I11 S t i r I 1 i n t o I . V A t 35C add C t o I V . Formula A VI/6550

2.00% 6.00% 10.00% 10.00% 71.60% q.s. 0.40%

I1 I V

H e a t B t o 80C. S t i r u n t i l cool

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s

208

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W-Cream Reci p e : A H o s t a c e r i n CG C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) T r i c e t e a r e t h - 4 Phosphate ( a n d ) PEG-6 Oleamide ( a n d ) Sodium C14-17 Sec. A1 k y l S u l f o n a t e M i n e r a l oi 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate

5.00%

10.00% 5.00%

B

Carbopol 980 Carbomer

0.20%

C

A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . E t h y l e n d i a m i n e T e t r a a c e t i c Acid-Sodium S a l t C i t r i c a c i d (10% i n w a t e r ) NaOH (10% i n w a t e r ) Water P r e s e r v a t ive

0.10%

0

Perfume

0.25% 0 80% 78.25% q.s. I

0.40%

Procedure: I M e l t A a t 70C, t h e n add B. I11 S t i r I 1 i n t o I. V A t 35C add D t o I V . Formula A V I / 1 6 0 1

I1 I V V I

Heat C t o 70C. S t i r u n t i l cool. Homogeni ze if n e c e s s a r y

I

O/W-Cream Reci p e : H o s t a c e r i n KW 340 N T r i c e t e a r e t h - 4 Phosphate Stearic acid Cetyl alcohol M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate

5.00%

A

B

S o r b i t o l (70%) Water Preservative

C

Perfume

Procedure: I M e l t A a t 80C. I 1 1 S t i r I 1 i n t o I. V A t 35C add C t o I V . Formula A VI/1700

9.00% 3.00% 4.00% 8.00% 3.00% 67.60% q.s.

0.40% I1 I V

VI

H e a t B t o 80C. S t i r unti 1 cool. Homogeni ze if n e c e s s a r y .

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s

Creams

209

O/W-Cream Recipe: 2.00% H o s t a p h a t KW 340 N T r i c e t e a r e t h - 4 Phosphate 7.00% H o s t a c e r i n DGS Pol y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-4 S t e a r a t e 2.00% Shea B u t t e r 6.00% C e t i o l SN Cetearyl Isononanoate 5.00% Walnut o i l 4.00% Almond o i 1 3.00% Jojoba o i l q.s. A n t i o x i dant 0.40% C a r b o p o l 980 Carbomer 0.30% A1 1a n t o i n 0.10% A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . E t h y l e n d i a m i n e T e t r a a c e t i c Acid-Sodium S a l t 0.25% C i t r i c a c i d (10% i n w a t e r ) 1.60% NaOH (10% i n w a t e r ) 4.00% G1 y c e r ine 64.35% Water q.s. P r e s e r v a t ive 0.40% Perfume M e l t A a t 70C, t h e n add 8. I 1 Heat C t o 70C. 111 S t i r 11 i n t o I . I V S t i r u n t i l cool. V A t 35C add D t o I V . V I Homogenize i f n e c e s s a r y Formula A VI/1801 O/W-Cream Reci p e : A H o s t a c e r i n CG 5.00% C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) T r i c e t e a r e t h - 4 Phosphate ( a n d ) PEG-6 Oleamide ( a n d ) Sodium C14-17 Sec. A l k y l Sulfonate H o s t a c e r i n DGS 3.00% P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-4 S t e a r a t e M i n e r a l o i l , low v i s c o s i t y 8 . 00% Isopropyl palmitate 8.00% 4.00% C e t i o l SN C e t e a r y l Isononanoate Isopropyl isostearate 4.00% B C a r b o p o l 980 0.20% Car borner C A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . 0.10% E t h y l e n d i a m i n e T e t r a a c e t i c Acid-Sodium S a l t C i t r i c a c i d (10% i n w a t e r ) 0.25% NaOH (10% i n w a t e r ) 0.80% Water 70.25% Preservative q.s. D Perfume 0.40% I M e l t A a t 70C, t h e n add B . I 1 Heat C t o 70C. I11 S t i r I 1 i n t o I. I V S t i r u n t i l cool. V A t 35C add D t o I V . VI Homogenize i f n e c e s s a r y Formula A VI/1604 SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s

210

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W-Cream Reci De: 5.00% H o s t a c e r i n DGS P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-4 S t e a r a t e 0.50% H o s t a c e r i n DGL P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-10 L a u r a t e 8.00% Isopropyl palmitate 4.00% Almond o i 1 2.00% Jojoba o i l 5.00% Wheat germ o i l 4.00% Sunf 1ower o i 1 q.s. Anti o x i dant 0.30% C a r b o p o l 980 Carbomer 0.10% Aquamoll in BC p d r h c . E t h y l e n d i a m i n e T e t r a a c e t i c Acid-Sodium S a l t 0.25% C i t r i c a c i d (10% i n w a t e r ) 1.20% NaOH ( 1 0 % i n w a t e r ) 69.25% Water q.s. Preservative 0.40% Perfume Procedure: I M e l t A a t 70C, t h e n add 8 . I 1 Heat C t o 70C. I11 S t i r I 1 i n t o I. I V S t i r u n t i l cool. V A t 35C add D i n t o I V . V I Homogenize i f n e c e s s a r y . Formula A V I / 1 8 5 2

.

.

O/W-Cream Free of ethylenoxide Recipe : A H o s t a c e r i n DGMS Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate Soya o i l Anti oxidant B C a r b o p o l 980 Carbomer K e l t r o l RD Xanthan Gum C NaOH ( 1 0 % i n w a t e r ) Water Preservative D Perfume Procedure: I M e l t A a t 80C, t h e n add B . I11 S t i r I 1 i n t o I. V A t 35C add D t o I V . Formula A VI/1750

5.00% 12.00% 8.00% 5.00% q.s. 0.20% 0.20% 0.80% 68.20% q.s. 0.40% I1

IV V I

H e a t C t o 80C. S t i r u n t i l cool. Homogenize i f n e c e s s a r y .

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : Guide F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s

Creams

211

O/W-Cream With bacteriostatic effect Recipe: H o s t a p h a t KW 340 N T r i c e t e a r e t h - 4 Phosphate H o s t a c e r i n DGS P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-4 S t e a r a t e Mineral o i l , low v i s c o s i t y Eutanol G O c t y l dodecanol Isopropyl isostearate C a r b o p o l 980 Carbomer Octopi r o x P i r o c t o n e Olami ne l I 2 - P r o p y 1 en g l y c o l NaOH (10% i n w a t e r ) Water P r e s e r v a t i ve Perfume Procedure: I M e l t A a t 60C, t h e n add B. I 1 1 S t i r I 1 i n t o I. V S t i r I V i n t o 111. V I 1 A t 35C add F t o V I . Formula A VI/8608

2.00%

7.00% 5.00% 8.00% 5.00% 0.30%

0.20% 10.00% 0.40% 61.80% q.s. 0.30% I1

D i s s o l v e C i n warmed D . Heat E t o 60C. VI S t i r u n t i l cool. V I 1 1 Homogenize i f n e c e s s a r y . I V

O/W-Cream Soft Recipe: 1 .OO% H o s t a c e r i n DGL P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-10 L a u r a t e 2.00% H o s t a c e r i n DGS P o l y g l yceryl -2 PEG-4 S t e a r a t e 4.00% Mineral o i l , high v i s c o s i t y 8.00% Isopropyl palmitate 4.00% Soya o i l q.s. Antioxidant 0.40% C a r b o p o l 980 Carbomer 0.10% Aquamoll in BC p d r h . c E t h y l e n d i a m i n e T e t r a a c e t i c Acid-Sodium S a l t 0,25% C i t r i c a c i d (10% i n w a t e r ) 1.60% NaOH (10% i n w a t e r ) 3.00% G1 y c e r i ne 75.25% Water q.s. P r e s e r v a t iv e 0.40% Perfume Procedure: I M e l t A a t 70C, t h e n add B. I 1 H e a t C t o 70C. 111 S t i r I 1 i n t o I. I V S t i r u n t i l cool. V A t 35C add D t o I V . V I Homogenize i f n e c e s s a r y . Formula A VI/1950

.

.

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s

212

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Protective Moisture Cream Inaredient: %w/w 1 C u t i n a FS45 4.0 2 C u t i n a CBS 8.0 3 C e t i o l LC 11 . o 4 Paraffin o i l 5.0 5 P a r s o l MCX 2.0 6 P a r s o l 1789 1.0 7 KOH (20%) 1.5 8 Glycerine 5.0 9 Preservative q.s. 1 0 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a medium w e i g h t O/W s k i n cream w i t h UV p r o t e c t i o n . The f i r s t s i x components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Components 7 8 8 a r e d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r , w h i c h i s t h e n h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e . The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. F o r m u l a T S 484 Very Light Cream Inqredient: %w/w 0.5 1 Dehydag Wax E 2 Eutanol G 4.5 3 C u t i n a MD 3.5 1.2 4 S t e n o l 16-65 q.s. 5 Preservative t o 100.0 6 Water T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a v e r y l i g h t O/W e m o l l i e n t cream. The f i r s t f o u r components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. The w a t e r i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e as t h e o i l phase. The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . A t t h i s s t a g e , t h e m i x t u r e needs h o m o g e n i s a t i o n b y , f o r example, a S i l v e r s o n . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. F o r m u l a TS 483 Protective Day Cream Ingredient: %w/w 1 C u t i n a FS45 4.0 2 C u t i n a CBS 8.0 3 Cetiol 8 11 .o 4 Paraffin o i l 5.0 2.0 5 P a r s o l MCX 6 P a r s o l 1789 1 .o 7 KOH (20%) 1.5 8 Glycerine 5.0 9 Preservative q.s. 1 0 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a medium w e i g h t O/W s k i n cream w i t h UV p r o t e c t i o n . The f i r s t s i x components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Components 7 8 8 a r e d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r , w h i c h i s t h e n h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e . The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. F o r m u l a TS 490 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S k i n Care P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams

213

Protective Moisturizing Cream

%w/w

Inaredient: 1 C u t i n a MD 2 S t e n o l 16-65 3 C e t i o l MM 4 Eumulgin 82 5 Eutanol G 6 C e t i o l SN 7 H y g r o p l e x HHG 8 Preservative 9 Water t o

7.0 2.0 5.0 3.0 3.0 7.0

4.0 q.s. 100.0

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a r i c h f e e l i n g O/W cream, o f medium consistency, which h e l p s t o s t i m u l a t e t h e s k i n ' s n a t u r a l r e g e n e r a t i v e powers. The f i r s t s i x components a r e h e a t e d t o g e t h e r t o 85C. Compo n e n t seven i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r and t h i s m i x t u r e i s a l s o h e a t e d t o 85C. The o i l phase i s t h e n mixed i n t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. Formula TS 185 Light Repair Cream Inaredient: 1 C u t i n a MD 2 S i p o l 16-18 C50 3 C e t i o l MM 4 Eumulgin B2 5 Eutanol G 6 M y r i t o l 318 7 R e p a i r Complex CLR 8 C o l l a g e n CLR 9 E l a s t i n CLR 10 P r e s e r v a t i ve 11 Water t o

%w/w 3.5 1.5 4.0 1.5 5.0 5.0 5.0 2.0 2.0 q.s. 100.0

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a v e r y l i g h t f e e l i n g O/W cream w h i c h h e l p s t o p r e p a r e t h e s k i n b e f o r e s u n b a t h i n g , by e n h a n c i n g t h e speed o f c e l l r e n e w a l . The f i r s t s i x components a r e h e a t e d t o g e t h e r t o 85C. The w a t e r i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e . The o i l phase i s t h e n mixed i n t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. Components seven t o n i n e can t h e n be i n c o r p o r a t e d , and t h e p r o d u c t homogenised. Formula TS 253

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S k i n Care P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

214

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Rejuvenating Cream W/O

%w/w I Dehymuls F

10.0 10.0 6.0 16.0 3.0 1.o

Cetiol V Eutanol G V a s e l ine, w h i t e M i c r o w a x HP 67 Epidermin i n o i l I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water

3.0 0.3 50.7

F o r m u l a No. A15-13 Herbal Cream W/O

%w/w I Dehymuls F N o v a t a AB Cetiol V Eutanol G V a s e l ine, whi t e C a l e n d u l a o i 1 CLR O i l o f S t . J o h n ' s w o r t CLR

7.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 10.0 3.0 3.0

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9

3.0 0.3 58.7

Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water F o r m u l a No. A15-14 Vitamin Cream W/O

I

Dehymuls F Cetiol V Eutanol G Vegetable o i 1 Vasel i n e , w h i t e V i t a m i n E Grandelan spec.

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water F o r m u l a No. A15-15

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

7.0 10.0 6.0 8.0 12.0 2.5 3.0 0.3 51.2

Creams

215

Replenishing Cream Inqredients: Phase A : H20, Dei o n i zed Carbopol 934 Propylene Glycol M e t h y l Paraben

%

73.48 0.20 3.00 0.25

Phase B : H e s t CSO ( C e t e a r y l O c t a n o a t e ) H e s t MS ( M y r i s t y 1 S t e a r a t e ) Hetoxamate SA-100 (PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) Hetan SS ( S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e ) H e t o x o l P ( E m u l s i f y i n g Wax) H e t o x o l G ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l & C e t e a r e t h 20) D i m e t h i cone 350 P a r s o l MCX Vitamin E Acetate P r o p y l Paraben

6.00 3.50 2.00 2.00 2.00 0.60

0.80 2.00 0.25 0.15

Phase C : H20, Dei o n i zed TEA 99%

1 .oo 0.22

Phase D : Sodium H y a l u r o n a t e ( 1 % ) Soluble Collagen

1.oo 0.25

Phase E: H20, D e i o n i z e d G e r m a l l 115

0.30

1.oo

Procedure: 1 ) I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e equipped w i t h a L i g h t n i n ' t y p e m i x e r add H20. S l o w l y s p r i n k l e C a r b o p o l 934 i n t o v o r t e x w h i l e m i x i n g u n t i l f r e e o f lumps. 2) Add b a l a n c e o f Phase A, h e a t t o 75C. I n a s e p a r a t e k e t t l e , combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B, h e a t t o 75C w h i l e m i x i n g . 3 ) Add B t o A. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Avoid a e r a t i o n . 4 ) Add Phase C p r e m i x e d and c o o l t o 40C. 5 ) A t 40C, add Phase D t o b a t c h . 6 ) Premix Phase E, add t o b a t c h . 7 ) Mix u n t i l uniform. Specifications: pH: 6 . 8 0 V i s c o s i t y , #4/6

RPM: 65000

SOURCE: H e t e r e n e , I n c . :

Formula HC 91-12-1

216

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Ritavena Hand and Body Cream A n a t u r a l hand and body cream d e s i g n e d a r o u n d t h e b e n e f i t s o f c o l l o i d a l oats (Ritavena) t o provide n a t u r a l s k i n therap e u t i c m o i s t u r i z a t i o n and s o f t e n i n g . Inqredi ents: %w/w Function 1 . D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 10.00 2 . R i t a v e n a - 5 ( H y d r o l y z e d Oat F l o u r ) 1.OO Natural Moisture 3 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 65.20 ---4. S o r b i t o l 3.50 Humectant 5. Methylparaben 0.15 Preservative 6 . F o r l a n 500 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 6.00 Emolliency 7 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2.50 Emulsifier 8 . M i n e r a l O i 1 (130-SUS-Penreco) 8.00 Emol 1 iency 9. R i t a S t e a r i c A c i d 2.00 Emulsifier 10.Propylparaben 0.05 Preservative 1 1 , T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e @ 50% 0.80 pH 1 2 . G e r m a l l I 1 @ 25% 0.80 P r e s e r v a t iv e Compounding P r o c e d u r e : H e a t f i r s t w a t e r t o 1OOC ( b o i l i n g ) , add i t e m 2 and m i x i n b l e n d e r f o r 2 m i n u t e s . Heat i t e m s 3 - 5 t o 75C. I n s e p a r a t e b e a k e r h e a t i t e m s 6-10 t o 75C. Combine w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add i t e m 11 and m a i n t a i n h e a t and a g i t a t i o n f o r 10 m i n u t e s . Add R i t a v e n a m i x t u r e and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool w i t h a g i t a t i o n . A t 45C add p r e s e r v a tive. R e f . No. 116-33

----

Therapeutic Barrier Cream E l e g a n t w a t e r i n o i l e m u l s i o n w h i c h r e s i s t s c h e m i c a l s and o i l s b e t t e r t h a n s i l i c o n e s y s t e m s . Based on R i t a p l a s t t o maximize barrier properties. Inqredi ents: 1. Mineral O i 1 2 . R i t a p 1 a s t ( B a r r i e r Base) 3 . R . I . T . A . Beeswax, N a t u r a l 4. L a n o l i n USP 5 . R i t a l a n C ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e and Lanolin O i l ) 6. Propylparaben 7. Ritahydrox (Hydroxylated Lanolin) 8 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 9 . Borax 10.Methyparaben 11.Fragrance Compoundi ng P r o c e d u r e : Heat i t e m s 1-7 and i t e m s 8-10 t o 165F Add o i l phase t o w a t e r phase w i t h m i x i n g fragrance. R e f . No. 116-18

SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:

%&yd 24.50 20.00 13.00 10.00

Function O i 1 -Out Barrier Barrier Barrier

2.00 0.10 0.30 28.50 1.30 0.10 0.20

Film Preservat ve Anchor

----

S t a b i 1 it y Preservat ve Odor

11s e p a r a t e

containers. Cool t o 120F and add

S k i n Care Formula Y

217

Creams

Skin Cream

w t"/.

Squalane 4.0 Beeswax 1 .o A m i t e r LG-OD 2.0 C e t y l O c t a n o a t e (Emalex CC-168)* 3.0 H y d r o g e n a t e d O i l (Emalex S . T . G . - R . ) * 4.0 Behenyl A l c o h o l 1.5 Stearic Acid 3.0 Propylene Glycol Monostearate 1.o G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e , S e l f Emu1 s i f y i ng (Emalex GMS-7CAE)* 5.0 D i m e t h y l p o l y s i l o x a n e (300 c . s . ) 0.4 B u t y l paraben 0.1 Amihope L L 1.o 8 . CAE 0.5 G1 y c e r i n 5.0 H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (1% a q . s o l n . ) 10.0 Methylparaben 0.2 Water 58.3 *Nihon Emulsion C o . Procedure: 1 . M i x ( A ) a t 8OC. 2 . M i x ( B ) a t 80C. 3 . Add ( A ) t o ( 8 ) . 4 . M i x them w i t h a homomixer, and t h e n c o o l s l o w l y t o 3 0 C . Note : T h i s s k i n cream s p r e a d s w e l l .

A.

Skin Cream

A. L i q u i d P e t r o l a t u m Cetanol Propylene Glycol Monostearate G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e ; S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g (HLB 5 ) (Emalex GMS-45RT; N i h o n E m u l s i o n C o . ) POE ( 1 0 ) M o n o s t e a r a t e POE ( 3 0 ) M o n o s t e a r a t e B u t y l paraben Amihope LL B . 1 , 3 - B u t y l ene G1 y c o l A c y l g l u t a m a t e HS-11 Methylparaben Water Procedure: 1 . M i x ( A ) a t 80C. 2 . M i x ( B ) a t 80C. 3 . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) . 4 . M i x them w i t h a homomixer. 5 . Cool them s l o w l y t o 30C. Note: T h i s s k i n cream h a s l o w f r i c t i o n t o u c h a f t e r u s e .

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

w t Yo 17.0 3.0 1.o 3.0 2.0 1.

o

0.1 5.0 5.0 0.3 0.2 62.4

218

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin Cream, Anhydrous

%w/w 10.0 25.0 15.0 35.0 5.0 10.0

L a n e t t e 16 Cetiol V C u t i n a BW Vasel i n e , w h i t e H a r d p a r a f f i n 52C Wool f a t , a n h y d r o u s Formula N o . A17-04 Skin Cream O/W Transparent in Gel Form

%w/w I

13.0 20.0 5.0

Eumulg n 83 C e t i o l HE Eutano G

62.0

I I Water

Preparation: E u m u l g i n 83 and t h e f a t t y s u b s t a n c e s a r e m e l t e d on t h e w a t e r b a t h a t 95C and t h e w a t e r i s added t o t h e f a t m e l t a l s o a t 95C. The g e l p r o d u c e d i s s t i r r e d w h i l e c o o l i n g and p e r f u m e i s added a t 60C. The g e l i s c o o l e d and s t i r r i n g c o n t i n u e d , a l t h o u g h t h e s t i r r i n g process should be t e r m i n a t e d a f t e r a s h o r t w h i l e t o avoid a i r pockets. I n order t o o b t a i n t h e desired trensparency, i t i s e s s e n t i a1 t o o b s e r v e t h e t e m p e r a t u r e s p e c i f ied. Formula N o . A17-05 Cream Base, Anhydrous

%w/w C u t i n a HR M y r i t o l 318 C e t i o l SN Eutanol G Mg-Si e l pharma Formula N o . A17-06

6.0 46.5 20.0 20.0 7.5

Skin Cream, Anhydrous L a n e t t e 16 Dehymuls L S Beeswax, w h i t e H a r d p a r a f f i n 52C Vasel ine, w h i t e Cetiol V F o r m u l a N o . A17-07

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

10.0 10.0 15.0 5.0 35.0 25.0

Creams

219

Skin Cream O/W

%w/w I C u t i n a GMS Lanette 0

12.0 1.o 3.0 1.o 20.0 10.0

C u t i n a E24 E u m u l g i n 82 C e t i o l 5845 Eutanol G I 1 1,2-propylene

glycol

5.0

Water

48.0

F o r m u l a No. A12-28 Skin Cream O/W with Shea Butter

%w/w I C u t i n a GMS Lanette 0

12.0 1.o 1.o 2.0

E u m u l g i n B2 C u t i n a E24 C e t i o l S845 I PP

5.0 5.0

I 1 Henkel G y c e r i n 86% DAB 9

5.0 69.0

Water F o r m u l a N o . A I 2-29 Skin Cream O/W

with Shea Butter

%w/w I Cutina

GMS

12.0 1. o 3.0 1. o 15.0 4.0 4.0

Lanette 0 C u t i n a E24 E u m u l g i n 82 C e t i o l S8 45 Eutanol G C e t i o l SN 11.1,2-propylene Water

glycol

Formula N o . A12-30

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

3.0 57.0

220

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin Cream O/W

96w/w I

C u t i n a E24 C u t i n a MD Lanette 0 Eutanol G M y r i t o l 318 Cetiol B

5.0 10.0 2.0 4.0 4.0 8.0

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water

5.0 62.0

Note: H i g h - f a t t i n g Formula N o . A12-19 Skin Cream O/W Fluid Type U

I

C u t i n a E24 C u t i na MD Lanette 0 Cetiol B

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water

W 4.0 6.0 1.5 8.0

5.0 75.5

Note: S o f t consistency, f l u i d Formula No. 12-20 Skin Cream W/O %VW&

I

Dehymuls F Novata A B / C e t i o l M M Eutanol G Vase1 i ne P a r a f f i n o i l , h i g h viscous

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Magnesi um s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water F o r m u l a A12-21

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

8.0 5.0

3.0 15.0 3.0 5.0 0.3

60.7

Creams

221

Skin Cream O/W (Soft Cream)

%w/w I

C u t i n a MO C u t i n a CP Eumulgin B1 Eumulgin 82 Cetiol B

4.0 4.0 1.o 1.o 5.0

I 1 Carbopol 940

0.5

Triethanolamine Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water

0.5

3.0 81.0

N o t e : T h i s model f o r m u l a c o n s t i t u t e s a p a r t i c u l a r l y s o f t , smooth and e a s y - t o - a p p l y o / w - t y p e cream. Formula A l l - 1 8 Day Cream O/W

96w/w

I

C u t i n a E24 C u t i n a MO Eutanol G Cetiol B

4.0 15.0 3.0 3.0

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water Note: S o f t consistency, Formula A l l - 1 9

5.0 70.0

low f a t t i n g

Day Cream O/W (Soft Cream)

I

C u t i n a CBS Eumulgin €31 E u m u l g i n 82 C e t i o l SN Eutanol G Isopropyl palmitate

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water F o r m u l a A 1 1-20

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

12.0 1.5 1.5 4.0 4.0 6.0 5.0 66.0

222

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin Cream, Tinted Matting O/W

%w/w I

3.5 1.2 2.0 0.5 3.0 2.5

C u t i n a MD Lanette 0 S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2 SM Chol e s t e r i n Paraffin o i l , high viscous Pigment c o l o r s

I 1 L u v i s k o l K30 A1 l a n t o i n 1,2-propylene g l y c o l T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Water Formula N o .

1.5 0.3 2.0 1.o 82.5

P12-01 Skin Cream, Tinted, with Pearly Gloss O/W -0

I

C u t i n a MD Lanette 0 S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2 SM Cholesterin Paraffin o i l , high viscous Pigment c o l o r s

I1

L u v i s k o l K30 A1 1 a n t o i n T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 1,2-propylene g l y c o l Veegum s o l u t i o n 4% Water

I 1 1 T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t e r MP 115

Formula N o .

3.5 1.2 2.0 0.5 3.0 2.5 1.5 0.3 1.0 2.0 20.0 57.5 5.0

P12-02 Rouge Cream, Anhydrous

I C u t i n a LM Eutanol G I 1 Pigment c o l o r s

C o s m e t i c t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e 300309 F o r m u l a N o . P13-01

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

79.0 15.0

4.0 2.0

Creams

Skin Cream W/O

%w/w I

Dehymuls F V a s e l in e Paraffin o i l , liquid M i c r o w a x HP 67

12.0 35.0 15.0 2.0

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water

5.0 0.3 30.7

F o r m u l a A12-22

Skin Cream W/O

%w/w I

Dehymuls F V a s e l ine, w h i t e Paraffin o i l , liquid M i c r o w a x HP 67

12.0 30.0 15.0 2.0

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water

5.0 0.3 35.7

F o r m u l a A1 2-23

Skin Cream W/O

%w/w I

Dehymuls F Dehymuls LS Cetiol V Vegetable o i 1 Vasel i ne, w h i t e Paraffin o i l , liquid M i crowax

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water F o r m u l a A 12-24 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

10.0 10.0 10.0 7.0 15.0 10.0 4.0 3.0 0.3 30.7

223

224

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin Cream W/O

%w/w I

Dehymuls F Cetiol V Vegetable o i 1 Vasel ine, w h i t e P a r a f f i n o i l , low viscous Microwax HP 67

10.0 10.0 7.0 25.0 10.0 4.0

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9

3.0 0.3 30.7

Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water

Note: H i g h - f a t t i n g Example o f a w/o-type cream w i t h e x t r e m e l y l o w w a t e r c o n t e n t , good h e a t s t a b l i t y and smooth s t r u c t u r e . Formula No. A12-16 Skin Cream W/O

%w/w I

Dehymuls F Cetiol V Vegetable o i 1 Vasel ine, w h i t e P a r a f f i n o i l , low viscous

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water

8.0

8.0 15.0 20.0 5.0 3.0 0.3 40.7

N o t e : Very s o f t cream s t r u c t u r e Formula No. A12-17 Skin Cream W/O

%w/w Dehymuls F Cetiol V Vegetable o i 1 Vasel i n e , w h i t e P a r a f f i n o i 1, l o w v i s c o u s Microwax HP 67

8.0 7.0 12.0 25.0 12.0 2.0

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9

3.0 0.3 30.7

I

Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water Note: H i g h - f a t t i n g Formula No. A12-18

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

Creams

225

Skin Cream W/O with Collagen

%w/w I

Dehymuls K Cetiol V P a r a f f i n o i 1, h i g h viscous Vase1 ine, w h i t e

25.0 6.0 4.0 5.0

I1

Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water

0.3 54.7

I11 C o l l a g e n

5.0

N o t e : pH s e t t i n g 3.7 t o 6 . 5 P r e p a r a t i o n : Heat I t o 70C, g r a d u a l l y s t i r i n I 1 a t 75'2, add I11 t o t h e cream a t 35C. F o r m u l a No. A15-07 Care Cream O/W with Azulene and Allantoin

%w/w I

C u t i n a KD 16 E u m u l g i n B1 Eutanol G M y r i t o l 318 P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous

I1

Allantoin l I 2 - p r o p y 1 ene g l y c o l Water

16.00 1.oo 12.00 4.00 6.00 0.20

3.00 57.75

0.05

I11 A z u l e n e s o l u t i o n 25% a . s . S e t PH t o 7 Note-: M e d i u m - f a t t i n g , medium s o f t c o n s i s t e n c y , due t o a z u l e n e a d d i t i v e . F o r m u l a No. A15-08

l i g h t blue t i n t

Anti-Wrinkle Cream, Anhydrous

%w/w Dehymuls K Cetiol V C e t i o l SN C u t i n a BW Vaseline, white Wheatgerrn o i l , s p e c . Vitamin o i 1 B i ocorno E x t r a p o n VC C a r r o t o i l CLR Oxynex 2004 F o r m u l a No. A15-09 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m a t l c

24.98 16.00 5.00 10.00 35.00 3.00 4.00 1.oo 1 .oo 0.02

Model

Formulae

226

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin Cream W/O with St. John's Wort Oil

%w/w I Dehymuls F

Eutanol G Cetiol V Cetiol MM Vase1 ine Calendula o i l S t . John's wort o i l I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water

7.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 10.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 0.3 58.7

Formula No. A15-19 Skin Cream O/W with Avocado Oil Lamecreme LPM Lamecreme SA 7 L a n e t t e 16 C u t i n a CP Wool f a t Avocado o i l C e g e s o f t C24 S i l i c o n o i l AK 350 Paraffin o i l I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water I I I P e fume

I

%w/W 8.0 0.5 2.0 5.0 2.5 3.0 4.0 0.5 4.6 5.0 64.8 0.2

Formu a N o . A15-20 Glycerine Cream O/W with Silicone

36w/w L a n e t t e 16 C u t i n a MD E u m u l g i n 81 Eutanol G B a y s i l o n - 0 i 1 M300 I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water I11 Cremogen camomile

I

2.0 14.0 3.0 10.0 5.0 30.0 35.8 0.2

P r e p a r a t i o n : Heat phase I t o 75C, s t i r i n phase I 1 a t 8OC, add phase I11 t o t h e cream a t 40C. F o r m u l a No. A16-01

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

Creams

221

Skin Cream W/O with Shea Butter

%w/w I

Dehymuls F C e t i o l SB 45 Cetiol V C e t i o l 868 Vasel ine, w h i t e

8.0 10.0 6.0 4.0 12.0

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 8 6 % DAB 9 Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water

5.0 0.3 54.7

F o r m u l a No. A12-25 Skin Cream W/O Shea Butter

9bw/w I

Dehymuls F C e t i o l SB 45 C e t i o l 868 Vasel ine, w h i t e P a r a f f i n o i l , low viscous

8.0 10.0 5.0 15.0 5.0

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9

5.0 0.3 51 . 7

Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water Formul a A1 2-26 Skin Cream O/W

o/ow/w I

Cutina Cutina Eumulg Cetiol Eutano

CBS

E24 n 82 SB 45 G

I 1 1,2-propylene g l y c o l Water Formula A I 2-27

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model Formulae

14.0 3.0 1.0 20.0 5.0

5.0 52.0

228

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin Protecting Cream O/W

with Silicone

?@vJJ I

Lanette 0 E u m u l g i n B1 E u m u l g i n B2 C e t i o l SN P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous B a y s i 1o n - 0 i 1 M300

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water

8.0 1.5 1.5 15.0 5.0 5.0

6.0 58.0

Formula No. A17-01 Skin Protecting Cream O/W Against Solvents

%w/w

I

L a n e t t e N/SX S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2SM Eutanol G Talc Kaol i n

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 7 Triethanolamine Dehydrol 7000-3% s o l u t i o n Water

6.0 6.0 8.0 5.0 5.0 10.0 0.3 30.0 29.7

F o r m u l a A1 7 - 0 2 Skin Protecting Cream W/O Against Aqueous Solutions

I

Dehymuls E Vase1 i ne, w h i t e Cetiol V P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous Zinc oxide Talc

I 1 Water

53.0

Formula N o . A17-03

SOURCE:

7.0 10.0 5.0 5.0 10.0 10.0

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

Creams

229

Smoothing Care Cream %w/w Ingredient: 6.0 1 C u t i n a FS45 2 C e t i o l LC 11.0 3 L o r o l C16 1.5 4 L o r o l C18 1.5 5 C u t i n a MD 3.0 6 KOH (20%) 2.0 7 Preservative q.s. 8 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a v e r y h a r d , heavy w e i g h t O/W s k i n cream w i t h an e x c e p t i o n a l l y smooth, e n r i c h i n g f e e l . The f i r s t f i v e components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Component 6 i s d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e . The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. F o r m u l a TS 500 Emollient Care Cream Inaredi ent : %w/w 5.0 1 C u t i n a FS25 2 iitioi B 9.0 1.5 3 L o r o l C16 1.5 4 L o r o l C18 3.0 5 C u t i n a MD 1.75 6 KOH ( 2 0 % ) q.s. 7 Preservative t o 100.0 8 Water T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a s o f t , medium w e i g h t O/W s k i n cream. The f i r s t f i v e components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Component 6 i s d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r w h i c h i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e . The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. Formula TS 501 ~~

Night Cream

%w/w Ingredient: 20.0 1 Emulaade CL s o e c i a l 2 S i l i c o n e o i l MIOO 1.o 3 Fragrance q.s. 4 Preservative q.s. 5 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s an O/W cream w h i c h has a r i c h , smoothi n g f e e l on t h e s k i n . Components 1 and 2 a r e added t o t h e w a t e r and t h e m i x t u r e i s h e a t e d t o a b o u t 85C. The m i x t u r e i s v i g o r o u s l y m i x e d u n t i l homogeneous. I t can t h e n be c o o l e d , w i t h moderate m i x i n g down t o a b o u t 35C. Formula TS 510 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S k i n Care P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

230

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Soft Touch Cleansing Cream

%w/w C a r b o p o l 940-2% A q . S o l ' n . 50.0 l I 3 - B u t y 1 ene G1 y c o l 12.0 Tween 20 0.5 Tween 80 0.5 D e i o n i z e d Water 0.0 B. M i n e r a l O i l , Heavy 20.0 1.0 A r l a c e l 60 3.0 Proto-Lan B* S o l u l a n 98 1. o C . G l y d a n t DMDMH-55 0.3 May-Tein KTS (Sodium/TEA L a u r y l H y d r o l y z e d K e r a t i n ) 2.0 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne-99% 1.5 D. F r a g r a n c e 0.2 * ( L e c i t h i n ( a n d ) B u t y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Cocoyl H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ( a n d ) O l e o y l S a r c o s i n e ( a n d ) Sesame O i l ( a n d ) Lanol i n Alcohol )

A.

Procedure: Heat Phase A & B s e p a r a t e l y t o 8OC. Add B t o A w i t h m i x i n g . Add C . M i x c a r e f u l l y t o a v o i d e n t r a p p i n g a i r . M i x and c o o l t o 40C. Add D. P r o p e r t i es : A m i l d , creamy f a c i a l c l e a n s e r w h i c h l e a v e s a smooth a f t e r f e e l . May be washed o f f o r r i n s e d o f f w i t h w a t e r . N o n - d r y i n g .

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : Formula #SW-3241 Care Cream S o l i d cream. Good s p r e a d a b i l i t y , good a b s o r p t i o n . pleasant s o f t touch.

Leaves a

Material/CTFA-Index: A . Emu1 g a t o r E21 5 5 / S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) S t e a r e t h - 7 ( a n d ) 6.00% Steareth-10 10.00 Isop r o p y 1 myr i s t a t / Isop r o p y 1 Myr is t a t e 1 .oo S t e a r y l a l kohol/Stearyl Alcohol 3.00 P a r a f f ino1 / M i n e r a l O i 1 2.00 W a c k e r - B e l s i 1 DM IOO/Dimethicone W a c k e r - B e l s i l SM-BOlB/Stearyl M e t h i c o n e 5.00 B. Glycerin/Glycerine 3.00 70.00 Wasser d e s t . / W a t e r Preservatives, fragrances, pigments q.s. Heat A and B t o 65C, m i x and homogenize, c o o l w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e :

F o r m u l a t i o n 1325 AH

Creams

231

Sunflower Oil Cream Inaredi ent: %w/w 1 E u m u l g i n 62 3.0 2 Monomuls 60-35 3.1 3 N o v a t a AB 4.8 4 Sunflower O i l 10.2 5 L o r o l C16 2.05 6 L o r o l C18 2.05 7 P r e s e r v a t ive q.s. 8 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s an O/W Cream, w i t h good s p r e a d i n g and a medium w e i g h t f e e l . The f i r s t s i x components a r e h e a t e d t o g e t h e r t o 85C. The w a t e r i s a l s o h e a t e d t o 85C. The o i l phase can t h e n be added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 3%. Formula TS 417 Sunflower Oil Cream with Protein Innredi ent: %w/w 1 Eumulain 82 3.0 2 Monomils 60-35 3 Novata A6 4.5 4 Sunflower O i l 10.2 5 L o r o l C16 2.05 6 L o r o l C18 2.05 7 G l u a d i n AGP 1.o 8 P r e s e r v a t ive q.s. 9 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s an O/W Cream, w i t h good s p r e a d i n g and a medium w e i g h t f e e l . The f i r s t s i x components a r e h e a t e d t o g e t h e r t o 85C. Compo n e n t seven i s d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r and t h i s m i x t u r e i s a l s o h e a t e d t o 85C. The o i l phase can t h e n be added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. Formula TS 418 Light Moisturizing Cream Insredient: %w/w 1 Eumulgin 82 3.0 2 M y r i t o l 318 10.0 3 C e t i o l SB45 5.1 4 Monomuls 60-35 5.0 5 S i p o l 1618 C50 2.2 6 H y g r o p l e x HHG 2.0 7 Preservative q.s. 8 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a l i g h t O/W cream w i t h n a t u r a l m o i s t urising effect. The f i r s t f i v e components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Component 6 i s d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r and h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e as t h e o i l phase. The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. Formula TS 460 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S k i n C a f e P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

3.1

232

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Tinted-Day-Cream Recipe: H o s t a o h a t KW 340 N T r i c e t e a r e t h - 4 Phosphate H o s t a c e r i n DGS P o l y g l yceryl -2 PEG-4 S t e a r a t e Cocoa B u t t e r Cocos o i l Walnut o i l Neo-He1 iopan AV O c t y l Methoxycinnamate Neo-He1 iopan BB Benzophenone-3 Antioxidant

3.00% 8.00% 1 .OO% 9.00% 5.00% 0.90% 0.10%

q.s.

Water A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . E t h y l e n d i a m i n e T e t r a a c e t i c Acid-Sodium S a l t C i t r i c a c i d (10% i n w a t e r ) Preservative

38.75% 0.10%

M a g n a b r i t e HV (4% i n w a t e r ) Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e

17.50%

0.25% 9,s.

Titanium dioxide T a l cum Pigment S i copharm ye1 1ow Pigment S i c o p h a r m r e d Pigment S i c o p h a r m b l a c k

6.00% 1.00% 0.60% 0.40% 0.10%

Desaron Desamido C o l l a g e n ( a n d ) H y a l u r o n i c A c i d Hygroderm "Moisturi zing"-Factor Perfume

5.00%

3.00% 0.30%

Procedure: I M e l t A a t 70C. I 1 Heat B t o 7 0 C . I11 S t i r I 1 i n t o I. I V S t i r u n t i l cool. V Add D i n t o C, t h e n homogenize. V I A t 35C s t i r V i n t o I V , t h e n add t h e components o f E .

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s : Formula A VI/3608

Creams

233

Universal Day Cream O/W I

Cutina MD E u m u l g i n SMO 20 Eutanol G Cetiol B Cetiol LC II Henkel Glycerin 86% DAB 9 Water Formula No. A11-25

%w/w

15.0 4.0 4.0 5.0 3.0 3.0 66.0

Universal Day Cream O/W I

Cuti na MD Dehymul s SMO E u m u l g i n SMO 20 Eutanol G Ceti ol B Cetiol LC II Henkel Glycerin 86% DAB 9 Water Formula No. A11-26

%W/W 15.0 1 .0 4.0 4.0 5.0 3.0 3,0 65.0

Day Cream O/W

w/w I

Cutina MD E u m u l g i n SMO 20 Eutanol G Cetiol S Lanette O II Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water Formula No. A11-27

14.0 4.0 3.0 3,0 1.0 3,0 72.0

Skin Cream O/W

%w/w I

Cutina MD Dehymuls SML E u m u l g i n SML 20 Eutanol G Cetiol B Lanette O II Henkel Glycerin 86% DAB 9 Water Formula No. A11-28 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

14.0 1. O 3.0 5.0 5.0 0.5 5.0 66.5

234

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Universal Skin Cream O/W

%w/w I

Cutina MD Dehymuls SML E u m u l g i n SML 20 Eutanol G Cetiol B Lanette O

14.0 2.5 1.5 5.0 5.0 1.0

II Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water

3.0 68.0

Formula A11-29 Skin Cream O/W With Pleasurable Melting-on Effect

%w/w I

C u t i n a MD Lanette O E u m u l g i n B1 E u m u l g i n B2 Novata AB/Cetiol MM Eutanol G Paraffin o i l , h i g h viscous

II Henkel Glycerin 86% DAB 9 Water

10.0 2.0 1.5 1.5 5.0 10.0 5.0 5.0 60.0

Formula A11-30 Day Cream O/W I

Cuti na MD Forlanit E Eutanol G Paraffin o i l , h i g h viscous

II 1,2-propylene glycol Triethanolamine Water

%W/W 14.00 1.OO 4.00 2.00 5.00 0.19 73.81

Formula A11-31 Day Cream O/W

%w/w I Emulgade CA/CL spec. II Water Formula A11-33 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

25.0 75.0

Creams

235

Universal Skin Cream W/O -%

20.0

Dehymuls K Cetiol V Vegetable o i l Vasel ine, w h i t e I I Water

I

5.0 5.0 5.0 65.0

N o t e : Medium f a t t i n g , medium s o l i d c o n s i s t e n c y Formula No. A13-01 Universal Skin Cream W/O

% & 4 J Dehymuls K M y r i t o l 318 Vaseline, white I 1 Water

25.0 10.0 5.0 60.0

I

N o t e : Medium f a t t i n g , Formula No. A13-02

medium s o l i d c o n s i s t e n c y

Universal Skin Cream W/O Hydrocarbon-Free

%w/w Dehymuls E Cetiol V Vegetable o i 1 1 1 Water

15.0 15.0 5.0 65.0

I

Note: Medium f a t t i n g , w / o - t y p e cream w i t h a s o f t c o n s i s t e n c y , model f o r m u l a w i t h o u t v a s e l i n e . Formula No. A13-03 Universal Skin Cream W/O

%w/w Dehymuls E Cetiol V C u t i n a BW Vasel ine, w h i t e P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous I 1 Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Henkel g l y c e r i n 80% DAB 9 Water

I

N o t e : Medium f a t t i n g Formula A1 3-04 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

7.0 6.0 3.0 12.0 6.0 0.3 5.0 60.7

236

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Universal Skin Cream W/O

%w/w I

Dehymuls K Cetiol V C u t i n a BW Vasel ine, w h i t e P a r a f f i n o i l , h i g h viscous

I 1 Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water

22.0 3.0

3.0 5.0

3.0 0.3 5.0 58.7

N o t e : Medium f a t t i n g Formula No. A13-05 Universal Skin Cream W/O

%w/w I

Dehymuls K Cetiol V Paraffin o i l ,

high viscous

I 1 Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water

30.0 4.0 5.0 0.3 5.0 55.7

Mote: Medium f a t t i n g Formula No. A13-06 Universal Skin Cream W/O

%w/w Dehymuls F Novata AB Eutanol G Vasel ine, w h i t e P a r a f f i n o i l , low viscous

8.0 5.0 3.0 15.0 3.0

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9

5.0

I

Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water

0.3 60.7

N o t e : T h i s s k i n cream i s an example o f t h e p o s s i b l e uses o f t h e Novata s o l i d t r i g l y c e r i d e s . The a d d i t i o n o f Novata AB enhances t h e o v e r a l l s t r u c t u r e o f t h e cream; i t a l l o w s t h e h y d r o c a r b o n s h a r e s e i t h e r t o be r e d u c e d o r t o b e r e p l a c e d c o m p l e t e l y . The a d d i t i o n o f a maximum o f 6% t r i g l y c e r i d e i m p r o v e s t h e m e l t i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f creams on t h e s k i n . Formula No. A13-07

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

Creams

237

Universal Skin Cream W/O

I

Dehymuls F V a s e l ine, w h i t e P a r a f f i n o i l , low viscous

8.0 15.0 8.0

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9

3.0 0.3 65.7

Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water F o r m u l a No. A13-08 Universal Skin Cream W/O

%w/w I

Dehymuls F Novata AB Eutanol G Vasel i ne, w h i t e P a r a f f i n o i l , low viscous M i c r o w a x HP 6 7

8.0 5.0 3.0 15.0 3.0 2 .o

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9

3.0 0.3 60.7

Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water

N o t e : T h i s s k i n cream i s an example o f t h e p o s s i b l e uses o f t h e Novata s o l i d t r i g l y c e r i d e s . The a d d i t i o n o f Novata AB enhances t h e o v e r a l l s t r u c t u r e o f t h e cream; i t a l l o w s t h e hydrocarbon shares e i t h e r t o be reduced o r t o be r e p l a c e d c o m p l e t e l y . The a d d i t i o n o f a maximum o f 6% t r i g l y c e r i d e i m p r o v e s t h e m e l t i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f creams on t h e s k i n . Formula N o . A13-09 Skin Cream W/O

I

Dehymuls K Dehymuls LS Cetiol V M y r i t o l 318

20.0 5.0 10.0 10.0

I 1 Water

55.0

Formula N o . A13-10

Source: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model

Formulae

238

Cosmetic and

Toiletry Formulations

Urban Protection Day Cream T h i s l i g h t t e x t u r e d day cream c o n t a i n s an e f f e c t i v e l e v e l o f n a t u r a l a n t i o x i d a n t s t o p r o v i d e p r o t e c t i o n from urban environm e n t a l i n f l u e n c e s . The a n t i o x i d a n t s a r e i n t h e f o r m o f l i p o somes as Dermasome SOD and Dermasome E t o p r o v i d e enhanced p e n e t r a t i o n and e f f i c a c y and t h e P r o t e i n - b o u n d B i o m i n S E / P / C . Ingredients/C.T.F.A. : % by W e i g h t Demi n e r a l ized Water 65.00 C a r b o p o l 1342, 2%/Carbomer 15.00 Glycerine 2.00 Brookswax D / C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 1.00 2.00 F i n s o l v TN/C12-15 A l c o h o l s B e n z o a t e 0.50 DC 200 F l u i d , 350 c s / D i m e t h i c o n e Germaben 1 1 - E / P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i a z o l i d i n y l IJ r e a 1.oo (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben E i omi n Se/P/C/Sel e n i urn P o l y p e p t i des 0.30 10.00 Dermasome SOD/Leci t h i n ( a n d ) S u p e r o x i d e Dimutase 3.00 Dermasome E / L e c i t h i n ( a n d ) T o c o p h e r y l A c e t a t e 0.20 AMP-95/Aminomethylpropanol Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e t h e C a r b o p o l i n w a t e r w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 75C. 2 . Add t h e G l y c e r i n and mix w e l l . 3 . B l e n d t h e F i n s o l v TN, Brookswax D , and S i l i c o n e F l u i d a t 70C u n t i l u n i f o r m and add t o w a t e r phase. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 4 . Add t h e AMP-95 and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m w i t h f a s t p r o p e l l o r agitation. 5 . Cool t o 50C and add t h e B i o m i n SE/P/C and Germaben w i t h sweep a g i t a t io n . 6 . Cool t o 35C and add t h e Dermasomes. 7 . F r a g r a n c e as d e s i r e d and m i x we1 1 . 8 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d i f r e q u i r e d , F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0163 s u g g e s t e d b y B r o o k s I n d u s t r i e s , SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.:

Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Inc.

Creams

239

Vitamin Cream O/W

%w/w I

C u t i n a KD16 Eumulgin B1 Eutanol G Vitamin o i 1 Biocorno Vitamin F glycerine ester

16.0 1 .o 12.0 5.0 3.0

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 80% DAB 9

5.0 58.0

Water Set pH t o 7 Formula N O , A15-01 Vitamin Cream W/O

%w/w

I

Dehymuls K Vegetable o i 1 V i t a m i n E G r a n d e l a n spec. Vitamin F glycerine ester

30.0 10.0 5.0 5.0

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9

5.0 45.0

Water Formula No. A15-02 Vitamin Cream with Placenta Extract O/W

%w/w

I

C u t i n a MD Eumulgin 81 Eutanol G P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous Wheat germ o i l spec. Placenta l i q u i d , o i l - s o l u b l e

I 1 Water Note: S o f t consistency Formula No. A15-03

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

15.0 3.0 10.0 3.0 2.0 3.0 64.0

240

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Vitamin Cream W/O

sbw/w I

Dehymuls F Cetiol V M y r i t o l 318 Vase1 ine, w h i t e Vitamin o i 1 Bi ocorno

7.0 7.0 6.0 10.0 6.0

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Magnesi um s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water

3.0 0.3 60.7

F o r m u l a No . A15-16 Vitamin Cream O/W

%w/w I

C u t i n a E24 C u t i n a MD Lanette 0 Cetiol B M y r i t o l 318 V i t a m i n F g l y c e r i n e e s t e r CLR

I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water

4.0 5.0 2.0 8.0 6.0 3.0

5.0 67.0

F o r m u l a N o . A15-17 Cream O/W With Elastin

56w/w

I

C u t i n a CBS E u m u l g i n B1 E u m u l g i n B2 Eutanol G C e t i o l 868 Avocado o i l

I1

Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water

12.0 1.5 1.5 10.0 10.0 3.0

I11 E l a s t i n

5.0 47.0 10.0

P r e p a r a t i o n : Heat phase I t o 75C, s t i r i n phase I 1 h e a t e d t o 80C. Add phase I 1 1 t o t h e cream a t 40C. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 4 . 5 - 5 . 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d , f o r example. F o r m u l a No. A15-18 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA:

Cosmetic Model Formulae

Creams

241

Wash Cream White thick lotion. Pleasant, soft feeling on the skin. M a t e r ia1 /CTFA- Index : A: T e g i n a c i d / G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 Ado1 6 6 / I s o s t e a r y l A l c o h o l Isopropyl Myris t a t e Eutanol G/Octyldodecanol Texapon N 40/Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e Mineral o i 1 , high v i s c o s i t y

10.00% 5.00 6.00 4.00 5.00 5.00

B : B e l s i l DMC 6 0 3 1 / D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Water Preservatives, fragrances, pigments

1 .oo 11 . o o 53.00 q.s

Heat A and

B each t o 65C. M i x

B well

i n t o A.

T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C B weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 362 AH Cleansing Cream White firm cream.

MaterialjCTFA-Index: A: L a n e t t e N / C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) Sodium C e t e a r y l Sulfate Vaseline/Petrolatum Paraffin Mineral o i l , low v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl Myri s t a t e

12.00% 9.00 2.00 5.00 2.00

B : B e l s i l DMC 6035/Methicone C o p o l y o l A c e t a t e Glycerine Water Preservatives, fragrances, pigments

3.00 4.00 63.00 q.s.

Heat A and B each t o 70C, m i x B w e l l i n t o A . T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 1 0 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 361 A H

SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

242

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Washing Cream W h i t e f i r m cream. Good c l e a n s i n g e f f e c t and s o f t the skin

f e e l i n g on

M a t e r i a1 /CTFA-Index: A : Lamecreme KSM/Glvcervl S t e a r a t e s e L a n e t t e O/Cetear;l Ajcohol Isopropyl Myristate B e l s i 1 DM 35O/Dimethi cone Eutanol G/Octyldodecanol Texapon N 40/Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e Mineral o i l , low v i s c o s i t y B: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l Water Bel s i 1 DMC 6032/Di m e t h i cone Copol yo1 A c e t a e Preservatives, fragrances, pigments

10.00% 5.00 6.00

2.00 4.00 5.00 5.00 12.00 46.50 4.50 q.s.

Heat A and B each t o 6 5 C , m i x B i n t o A , s t r c o l d Temperature s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 397 AH Day Cream W h i t e f i r m cream w i t h a s i l k y s h i n e . Absorbed w e l l , d r y f e e l i n g on t h e s k i n . Material/CTFA-Index: A: S t e a r i c A c i d B e l s i l PDM 20/Phenyl D i m e t h i c o n e B: Glycerine A m i nomethyl p r o p a n o l Water P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume, pigments Heat A and B each t o 75C. S t i r A s l o w l y i n t o Temperature s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 1 0 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 399 AH

B.

leaves a

25.00% 5.00 8.00 1.50 60.50 q.s. S t i r cold.

Skin Cream White, creamy, silky shine.

M a t e r i a1 /CTFA-Index: A : B e l s i l PDM 2O/Phenvl D i m e t h i c o n e Stearic Acid Cetyl Alcohol B: Glycerine Triethanolamine Wasser d e s t . / W a t e r Preservatives, fragrances, pigments Heat A and B each t o 80C, s t i r A i n t o B . Temperature s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 1 0 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 187/3 AH SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

3.60% 4.20 1 .oo

2.00 0.80 88.40 9,s.

Creams

243

Water In Oil Foundation Cream

(0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) Squal ane Beeswax A m i t e r LGOD A m i t e r LGS-2 Amerchol H-9 S o r b i t a n Monooleate T i t a n i urn D i o x i d e Aluminum M o n o s t e a r a t e (W)

W S 8.0 15.1 8.0 3.3 1.2 1.7 0.6 7.0 1.5

2.0 5.0 46.6

A j i d e w N-50 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Water Preservative

9.S.

Procedure: 1 . Suspend t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e and aluminum m o n o s t e a r a t e t o t h e m i x t u r e o f l i q u i d p a r a f f i n and s q u a l a n e . 2 . Add o t h e r ( 0 ) i n g r e d i e n t s t o t h e s u s p e n s i o n . 3 . Heat ( 0 ) t o 90-1OOC t o d i s s o l v e . 4 . Heat (W) t o 85C. 5 . Add (W) t o ( 0 ) s l o w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g . 6 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 5 . 2 Vanishing Cream

Wt% (0) S t e a r i c A c i d L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) Isopropyl Myri s t a t e Hydrogenated L a n o l i n N i k k o l WCB G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( S e l f Emu1 s i f y i n g Type) Polyoxyethylene ( 2 0 ) Cetyl Ether

(W) A j i d e w N-50 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l G1 y c e r i n Triethanolamine Water Preservative Procedure: 1 . Heat ( 0 ) and (W) t o 85-86C. 2 . Add ( W ) t o ( 0 ) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Cool s l o w l y t o 30C w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 7 . 2

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U S A , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

8.0 3.0 3.0 2.0 2.0 1.3 1.7

3.0 3.0 3.0 0.5 69.5 9,s.

244

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

W/O-Cream Recipe: A H o s t a c e r i n WO P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 S e s q u i i s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Beeswax ( a n d ) M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 in e Wax ( a n d ) M i n e r a l O i 1 ( a n d ) Magnesium S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Aluminum S t e a r a t e P e r m u l g i n 3510 Beeswax ( a n d ) V a s e l i n e Shea B u t t e r Mineral o i l , low v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate Walnut o i 1 A n t i o x i dant B A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . E t h y l e n d i a m i n e T e t r a a c e t i c Acid-Sodium S a l t C i t r i c a c i d (10% in w a t e r ) Glycerine Water Preservative C Perfume Procedure: I M e l t A a t BOC. 111 S t i r I 1 i n t o I. V A t 35C add C t o I V . Formula A VI/2717

I1 I V

10.00%

4.00% 2.00% 7.00% 7.00% 4.00% 9.S.

0.10% 0.25% 4.00% 61.25% q.s. 0.40%

Heat B t o BOC. S t i r u n t i l cool.

W/O-Cream Recipe: H o s t a c e r i n WO P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 S e s q u i i s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Beeswax ( a n d ) M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax ( a n d ) M i n e r a l O i l ( a n d ) Magnesium S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Aluminum S t e a r a t e Lunacera M M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax Vase1 i ne M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate B Glycerine Water Preservative C Perfume

A

Procedure: I M e l t A a t 00C. I11 S t i r I 1 i n t o I . V A t 35C add C t o I V . Formula A VI/2707

I1 I V

8.00%

4.00% 4.00% 10.00% 8.00% 4.00% 61 .60% q.s.

0.40%

H e a t B t o BOC. S t i r u n t i l cool.

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s

Creams

245

W/O-Cream Recipe! H o s t a c e r i n WO P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 S e s q u i i s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Beeswax ( a n d ) M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 ine Wax ( a n d ) M i n e r a l O i 1 ( a n d ) Magnesium S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Aluminum S t e a r a t e P e r m u l g i n 3510 Beeswax ( a n d ) V a s e l i n e M i n e r a l o i 1, low v i s c o s i t y Eutanol G Octyldodecanol Walnut o i l Antioxidant B Allantoin A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . E t h y l e n d i ami ne T e t r a a c e t i c A c i d - S o d i um S a l t C i t r i c a c i d (10% i n w a t e r ) Glycerine Water Preservative C Desaron Desami do Col 1agen ( a n d ) H y a l u r o n c A c i d Perfume Procedure: I M e l t A a t 8OC. I 1 Heat B t o 80C. coo I11 S t i r I 1 i n t o I . I V S t i r unti V A t 35C add t h e components o f C 0 I V . Formula A VI/3804

A

10.00%

3.00% 10.00% 5.00% 4.00% q.s. 0 I20% 0.10% 0.25% 3.00% 60.05% q.s. 5.00% 0 40% I

W/O-Cream Reci p e : H o s t a c e r i n WOL P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 Sesquiisostearate (and) Mineral O i l ( a n d ) Magnesium S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Aluminum S t e a r a t e Beeswax Lunacera M M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 ine Wax Vase1 ine Mineral o i l , high v i s c o s i t y C e t i o l 868 Octyl Stearate Water P r e s e r v a t ive Perfume Procedure: I M e l t A a t 8OC. I 1 Heat B t o 80C. 111 S t i r I 1 i n t o I . I V S t i r u n t i l cool. V A t 35C add C t o I V . Formula A VI/2752

5.00% 1 .OO% 3.00%

7.00% 7.00% 5.00% 71.60% 4.s. 0.40%

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : Guide F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmetics & T o i l e t r i e s

246

Cosmetic and

Toiletry Formulations

W/O-Cream Reci pe : A H o s t a c e r i n WO P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 S e s q u i i s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Beeswax ( a n d ) M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 ine Wax ( a n d ) M i n e r a l O i 1 ( a n d ) Magnesium S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Aluminum S t e a r a t e Permul g i n 351 0 Beeswax ( a n d ) V a s e l i n e Mineral o i l , low v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate Sunf 1ower o i 1 Almond o i l Wheat germ o i l Antioxidant B A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . E t h y l e n d i ami ne T e t r a a c e t ic A c i d-Sodi um Sa1 t C i t r i c a c i d (10% i n w a t e r ) G1 y c e r i ne Water Preservative C Perfume Procedure: I M e l t A a t 80C. I 1 Heat B t o 80C. I11 S t i r I 1 into I. I V Stir u n t i l c o o l . V A t 35C add C t o I V . Formula A VI/2713 W/O-Cream Reci pe : A H o s t a c e r i n WOL P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 S e s q u i i s o s t e a r a t e (and) Mineral O i l ( a n d ) Magnesium S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Aluminum S t e a r a t e Lunacera M M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i n e Wax Mineral o i l , low v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate Isopropyl isostearate Per h y d r o s q u a l ene D-Panthenol B 1,2-Propylenglycol Magnesi um s u l f a t e Water Preservative C Perfume Procedure: I M e l t A a t 8OC. 111 S t i r I 1 i n t o I. V A t 35C add C t o I V . Formula A VI/2750

I1

I V

10.00%

4.00% 7.00% 7.00% 5.00% 3.00% 2.00% q.s. 0.10% 0.25% 4.00% 57.25% q.s. 0.40%

5.00% 2.00% 5.00% 5.00% 5.00% 5.00% 0.50% 4.00% 0.70% 66.40% q.s. 0.40%

Heat B t o 80C. S t i r u n t i l cool.

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s

Creams

247

W/O-Cream Recipe: A Hostacerin WOL Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquiisostearate (and) Mineral Oil (and) Magnesium Stearate (and) Aluminum Stearate Beeswax Mineral oi 1 , low viscosity Perhydro squalene Almond oi 1 Sunflower oil Wheat germ oil Antioxidant

4.00% 4.00%

B

0.10%

Aquamollin BC Plv. hochkonz. Ethylendiamine Tetraacetic Acid-Sodium Salt Citric acid (10% in water) Glycerine Water Preservat i ve

C Perfume Procedure: I Melt A at 80C. I11 Stir I1 into I. V At 35C add C to IV. Formula A VI/2753

7.00% 3.00%

7.00%

4.00% 1 .OO% q.s.

0.25% 3.00%

66.25% q.s. 0.40%

I1 IV

Heat B to 80C. Stir until cool.

W/O-Cream Reci pe : A Hostacerin WOL Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquiisostearate (and) Mineral Oil (and) Magnesium Stearate (and) Aluminum Stearate Beeswax Lunacera M Microcrystalline Wax Mineral 0 1 1 , low viscosity Isopropyl palmitate Cetiol SN Cetearyl Isononanoate B

1.00% 1 .OO%

8.00% 5.00% 5.00%

3.00% 71.60% q.s.

Glycerine Water Preservative

C Perfume Procedure: I Melt A at 80C. I11 Stir I1 into I. V At 35C add C to IV. Formula A VI/2751

5.00%

0.40%

I1 IV

Heat B to 80C. Stir until cool

SOURCE: Hoechst: G u i d e Formulations f o r Cosmetics & Toiletries

248

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

W/O-Cream Recipe: A Hostacerin DGI Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquiisostearate Lunacera M Microcrystal 1 i ne Wax Mi neral oi 1, high vi scosity Cetiol SN Cetearyl Isononanoate

4.00% 4.00% 10.00%

8.00%

B

Gilugel IPP Isopropyl Palmitate (and) Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate

C

Water Preservat i ve

D

Perfume

Procedure: I Melt A at BOC. I11 Heat C to 8OC. V Stir until cool Formula A VI/2805

8.00%

65.60% q.s. 0.40%

I1 IV VI

Stir B into I (Ultra-Turrax) Stir I11 into 11. At 35C add D to V .

All Round-Cream

Recipe: A Hostacerin WO Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquiisostearate (and) Beeswax (and) Microcrystalline Wax (and) Mineral Oil (and) Magnesium Stearate (and) Aluminum Stearate Mineral oi 1, high vi scosi ty Isopropyl palmitate 8

Water Preservat i ve

C

Perfume

Procedure: I Melt A at 80C. I11 Stir I1 into I. V At 35C add C to IV Formula A VI/2703

10.00%

10.00%

10.00% 69.60% q.s.

0.40%

I1 IV

Heat B to 8OC. Stir until coo

SOURCE: Hoechst: Guide Formulations for Cosmetics & Toiletries

Creams

249

W/O Cream with Eldew

I n q r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: % b y Weight Part A: D i - ( C h o l e s t e r y l , behenyl, o c t y l d o d e c y l ) N - L a u r o y l - L - g l u t a m a t i c a c i d e s t e r / E l d e w CL-301 2.00 Cetearyl Octanoate 8.00 C12-15 A l k y l Benzoate 5.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.60 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.05 P a r t B: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) Hexyl L a u r a t e 5.00 Cetyl Dimethicone 2.00 Part C: D e i o n i z e d Water 68.55 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.80 G l y c e r i n (99.5%) 5.00 P a r t i a l l y D e a c e t y l a t e d C h i t i n ( l . O % ) / M a r i n e Dew PC-100 2.00 Part D: 0.20 Methylparaben Butylene Glycol 0.80 Procedure: P r e - m e l t P a r t A a t 50 d e g r e e s C e n t i g r a d e . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A . P r e - m e l t P a r t D b y h e a t i n g t o 5 0 d e g r e e s C . Add t o P a r t C . S l o w l y add P a r t C and D m i x t u r e t o P a r t s A and B w i t h h i g h shear m i x i n g . Appearance: W h i t e , smooth, shny l o t i o n . pH: 6 . 0 0 - 6 . 5 0 V i s c o s i t y : 20,000 c p s (RVT #6 @ IOrpm @ 25 d e g r e e s C) Hand Cream

Wt% (0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) Cetyl Alcohol N i k k o l WCB Isopropyl Myri s t a t e G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g Type) Polyoxyethylene (20) Cetyl Ether ( W ) A j i d e w N-50 Water P r e s e r v a t ive Procedure: 1 . Heat ( 0 ) and (W) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o ( 0 ) s l o w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 5 . 2

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U S A ,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

10.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 2.9 2.1

3.0 67.0 9,s.

Section VI Hair Care Products

250

Hair Care Products

251

Aerosol Finishing Spray Ingredients: SD A l c o h o l 40, 200 p r o o f D-Panthenol 50P ( P a n t h e n o l & P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ) AMP-95 F r a g r a n c e ( S u n b u r s t 94F/2197)

O h by W e i g h t

51.43 1 .oo 1.47 0.10

A.

B.

Luvimer 1OOP ( A c r y l a t e s Copolymer)

C.

H y d r o f l u o r o c a r b o n 152a

%

voc:

6.00

40.00

55%

Procedure: 1 . Combine phase A . 2 . S p r i n k l e B i n t o A and m i x w e l l . 3 , F i 11 i n t o a p p r o p r i a t e c o n t a i n e r s w i t h p r o p e l l a n t . Packaging: W h i t e Coated Aluminum Can ( P e e r l e s s Tube C o r p . ) V a l v e , Concave Kosmos A c t u a t o r & Overcap ( P r e c i s i o n V a l v e Corp. ) F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0338

s u g g e s t e d b y BASF

Shaping Spray Hair Spray/Spray Gel

I n q r e d ien t s : A.

40, 190 p r o o f Deionized water D-Panthenol U v i n u l M40 AMP-95 F r a g r a n c e (Peach F l o r a l 92F/3235)

B.

Luvimer lOOP ( A c r y l a t e s Copolymer)

% by Weight

SD A l c o h o l

Procedure: 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n phase A i n o r d e r l i s t e d . 2 . Add phase B t o A under m i x i n g and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Packagi n g : W h i t e Coated Aluminum Can ( P e e r l e s s Tube C o r p . ) AP4 1 " Snap-On Pump & Overcap ( P r e c i s i o n V a l v e Canada) F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0339 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o , : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

84.20 7.63 0.50 0.10 1.47 0.10 6.00

252

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Aerosol Hair Spray Regular Hold Ingredients: Advantage V Resin AMP-95 SD Alcohol 40 Disti1 led Water Plasti ci zer Fragrance, etc. Propellant (s)

% by Wt 5.00 0.15 42.50-57.50 17.35 q.s. q.s. 20.00-35.00 Aerosol Hair Spray Super Hold

Ingredi ents: Advantage V Resin AMP-95 SD Alcohol 40 D i s t i l i e d Water Plastici zer Fragrance, etc. Propellant (s)

% by Wt 8.00 0.24 41.00-56.00 15.768 q.s. q.s. 20.00-35.00 Aerosol Hair Spray Maximum Hold

Ingredients: Advantage V Resin AMP-95 SD Alcohol 40 D i s t i l i e d Water Plastici zer Fragrance, etc. Propellant (s) Formulations PF-0264 suggested by ISP

% by Wt 11.00 0.34 39.50-54.50 14.16 q.s. q.s. 20.00-35.00

Aerosol Hair Spray Regular Hold Ingredients: Advantage CP Resin AMP-95 Phenyl Trimethicone Ethanol (20OP) Propel!ant A-46 Fragrance

% by Wt 5.00 0.08 0.15 59.77 35.00 q.s. Aerosol Hair Spray Super Hold

Ingredients: Advantage CP Resin AMP-95 Phenyl Trimethicone Ethanol (20OP) Propellant A-46 Fragrance Formulation PF-0266 suggested by ISP SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus Product Formulary

% by Wt 8.00 0.12 0.15 56.73 35.00 q.s.

.Hair Care Products

253

Aerosol Hair Spray Formulation Containing Water Inqredients: L u v i f l e x VBM 3 5 ( P V P / A c r y l a t e s Copolymer) AMP-95 (Aminomethyl P r o p a n o l ) E t h a n o l , SDA 40 D i s t i l l e d Water Dymel A ( D i m e t h y l E t h e r )

96 by Wei a h t 6.00 0.26 43.74

20.00 30.00

Procedure: Combine r e s i n w i t h AMP and e t h a n o l . A f t e r a c l e a r s o l u t i o n i s o b t a i n e d , s l o w l y add t h e w a t e r . Mix w e l l . Package and c h a r g e w i t h p r o p e l l a n t . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0198 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF Aerosol Hair Spray Formulation Containing Water Ingredients: U l t r a h o l d 8 (Acrylate/Acrylamide AMP-95 (Aminomethyl P r o p a n o l ) E t h a n o l , SDA 40 D i s t i l l e d Water Dymel A ( D i m e t h y l E t h e r )

Copolymer)

% by Weight 3.00 0.25 46.75 20.00 30.00

Procedure: Combine r e s i n w i t h AMP and e t h a n o l . A f t e r a c l e a r s o l u t i o n i s o b t a i n e d , s l o w l y add t h e w a t e r . Mix w e l l . Package and c h a r g e w i t h p r o p e l l a n t . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0199 s u g g e s t e d by BASF Aerosol Hair Spray Formulation Containing Water Inaredients: L u v i s e t CAP ( V i n y l A c e t a t e / C r o t o n i c P r o p i o n a t e Copolymer) AMP-95 (Aminomethyl P r o p a n o l ) E t h a n o l , SDA 40 D i s t i l l e d Water Dymel A ( D i m e t h y l E t h e r )

% by Weight Acid/Vinyl 3.00 0.28 46.72 20.00 30.00

Procedure: Combine r e s i n w i t h AMP and e t h a n o l . A f t e r a c l e a r s o l u t i o n i s o b t a i n e d , s l o w l y add t h e w a t e r . Mix w e l l . Package and c h a r g e w i t h p r o p e l l a n t . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0200 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

254

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Aerosol Hairspray "100% VOC"-CMB Horizon System Ingredients: % bv W e i a h t Ethanol 91.67 AMP R e g u l a r 0.11 Advantage CP 8.00 D i m e t h i cone Copol yo1 0.10 Perfume, K r i s t i n e K/19718 0.12 Procedure: D i s s o l v e AMP n e u t r a l i z e r i n e t h a n o l . Add Advantage CP w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d , m i x i n g t h o r o u g h l y a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . Charge i n t o a e r o s o l c o n t a i n e r s and p r e s s u r i z e u s i n g compressed gas ( e . g . nitrogen) t o 8 t o 9 bar pressure. N o t e : C o n t a i n e r s s h o u l d be checked f o r c o r r o s i o n r e s i s t a n c e t o the product. F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0245E s u g g e s t e d b y ISP Aerosol Hairspray, Hydrocarbon Propellant Inqredients: % by W e i o h t Ethanol 60.82 AMP R e g u l a r 0.06 Advantage CP 4.00 Perfume, K r i s t i n e K/19718 0.12 Propane/butane 35.00 Procedure: D i s s o l v e AMP n e u t r a l i z e r i n e t h a n o l . Add Advantage CP w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d , m i x i n g t h o r o u g h l y a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . Charge i n t o a e r o s o l c o n t a i n e r s and p r e s s u r i z e w i t h p r o p e l l a n t . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0246E s u g g e s t e d by I S P Aerosol Hairspray % bv W e i g h t Ingredients: 71 - 7 4 Ethanol Water, D e i o n i zed 20.00 AMP R e g u l a r 0.16 Advantage CP 8.00 Dimethicone poly01 0.10 Sufadone LP-300 0.10 q.s. Perfume Procedure: T h i s h a i r s p r a y uses t h e compressed gas-CM8 H o r i z o n system and meets t h e 80% VOC r e q u i r e m e n t . D i s s o l v e AMP R e g u l a r i n e t h a n o l and w a t e r . Add Advantage w i t h s t i r r i n g , u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Charge i n t o aluminum c o n t a i n e r s and p r e s s u r i z e w i t h n i t r o g e n . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0239E s u g g e s t e d by I S P

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o r p . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

255

Aerosol Spray Normal hold for all climatic zones, easy to comb and wash out. % by Weight

Ingredi ents: U l t r a h o l d Strong AMP R e g u l a r Ethanol abs. n -Pent ane DME Perfume o i l

2.00 0.25 37.75 20.00 40.00 q.s.

Procedure: P l a c e e t h a n o l , AMP R e g u l a r and p e r f u m e o i l i n t h e s t i r r e r v e s s e l , add U l t r a h o l d S t r o n g . S t i r u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . F i l l i n t o containers. C l o u d p o i n t : S t i l l c l e a r a t -35C Pressure: 2.6 bar D e n s i t y : 0.6960 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0328 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF Aerosol Spray Strong hold for all climatic zones, easy to comb and wash out. Insredi ents: U l t r a h o l d Strong AMP R e g u l a r L u v i s k o l V A 37 E Ethanol abs.

% b y Weight

DME

Perfume o i l

3.00 0.35 6.00 50.65 40.00 q.s

Procedure: P l a c e e t h a n o l , L u v i s k o l V A 37 E, AMP R e g u l a r and perfume o i i n t h e s t i r r e r v e s s e l , add U l t r a h o l d S t r o n g and s t i r u n t i l dissolved. F i l l i n t o containers. C l o u d p o i n t : S t i l l c l e a r a t -35C Pressure: 2 . 8 bar Density : 0.7520 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0329 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o n : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

256

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Aerosol Spray Strong hold for all climatic zones, easy to comb and wash out. % by WeiRht 4.00

Inqredients: U l t r a h o l d Strong AMP R e g u l a r Ethanol abs. Pentane DME Perfume o i l

0.50 40 5 0 15.00 40.00 q.s I

Procedure: P l a c e e t h a n o l , AMP R e g u l a r and p e r f u m e o i l i n t h e m i x i n g v e s s e l , Add U l t r a h o l d S t r o n g and s t i r u n t i l d i s s o l v e d , t h e n f i l l in t o c o n t a i n e r s . C l o u d p o i n t : S t i l l c l e a r a t -35C Pressure: 2 . 6 bar Density: 0.7088 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0330 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF Aerosol Spray V e r y s t r o n g h o l d f o r a l l c l i m a t i c zones, wash o u t .

I n g r ed ien t s : U l t r a h o l d Strong AMP R e g u l a r Ethanol abs. Propane/butane Perfume o i l

easy t o comb and % by Weiaht

6.00 0.75

43.25 50,OO q.s.

Procedure: P l a c e e t h a n o l , AMP R e g u l a r and p e r f u m e o i l i n t h e m i x i n g v e s s e l , add U l t r a h o l d S t r o n g and s t i r u n t i l d i s s o l v e d , t h e n fill in t o c o n t a i n e r s I

C l o u d p o i n t : S t i l l c l e a r a t -35C Pressure: 4.0 bar Density: 0.6640 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0331 s u g g e s t e d by BASF

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

257

Alcohol-Free Aerosol Hair Spray % b v Weight

Ingredients L o v o c r y l 47 AMP-95 D e i o n i z e d Water Dimethyl Ether Fragrance Preservative Cloud P o i n t :

8.00 1.38 57.62 33.00 q.s. q.s.

-15C

Procedure: D i s s o l v e AMP-95 i n w a t e r . W h l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n L o v o c r y l 47. M i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . F i l t e r and f i l l , then charge w i t h p r o p e l l a n t . Valve: Seaquist Valve: Stem: Gasket: S p r ing : Body : cup :

NS 34 0.013" B u t y l 0 . 0 4 2 " THK. Code: 501 0 . 0 2 0 " ss Capi 11a r y R e g u l a r , Epoxy Top, L a m i n a t e B o t t o m , D i m p l e d , Code: 1610 0 . 0 1 3" 0.040" E x c e l 1 200 M i s t y 0 . 0 1 8 M i s t y

Vapor Tap: D i p Tube: Actuator: F o r m u l a PF-0268

s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemical Co.

Shine and Hold Inqredients: Amphomer AMP R e g u l a r Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e Triethyl Citrate Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40

Spray % by Weight

5.00 0.82 5.00 0.10 89.08

Procedure: D i s s o l v e AMP i n anhydrous e t h a n o l , SDA-40. W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s i f t i n Amphomer. When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e and T r i e t h y l C i t r a t e . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0269 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemical Co. SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . :

Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

258

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Alcohol-Free Aerosol Hair Spray Inaredients/CTFA Desianations: % bv Weight Amphomer LV-7l/0ctylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethyl M e t h a c r y l a t e Copolymer 5.00 AMP-95/Aminomethyl P r o p a n o l 0.96 B u r s t RSD-lO/Dimethicone S i l y l a t e 0.50 D e i o n i zed Water 60.54 DME/Oimethyl E t h e r 33.00 P r e s e r v a t iv e q.s. Val ve : Seaquist Valve: Stem: Stem G a s k e t : Spring: Body :

NS-34 0 . 0 13" B u t y l , 0.042'' THK. Code:

ss 0.020"

500

Capi 11a r y Alum. C . C . A N . R G . , Epoxy Top, Epoxy B o t t o m , Buna 0.040" 0 0 13" E x c e l 1 200 - 0 . 0 1 6 " M i s t y

D i p Tube: Vapor Tap: Actuator:

.

Can:

Advanced Monobloc Corp.

Procedure: D i s p e r s e B u r s t i n w a t e r . D i s s o l v e AMP i n s o l u t i o n . When c o m p l e t e , s l o w l y s i f t i n Amphomer LV-71 t o t h e s o l u t i o n , w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n . F i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e . Charge cans w i t h p r o p e l l a n t . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0258 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemical Co.

80% VOC Pump Hair Spray Ingredients: E t h a n o l (190 P r o o f ) Water G a n t r e z XL-80 (PVM/MA D e c a d i e n e C r o s s p o l y m e r ) AMP-95 G a n t r e z V-425 ( B u t y l E s t e r o f PVM/MA C o p o l y m e r ) Phenyl T r i m e t h i cone Fragrance

% by W e i g h t

79.63 3.96 5.70 0.41 10.00 0.10 0.20

Procedure: 1 . Add e t h a n o l and w a t e r t o m a i n t a n k . S t a r t m i x i n g and add G a n t r e z XL-80. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y b l e n d e d . 2 . Add AMP-95 and m i x u n t i l b l e n d e d . 3 . Add G a n t r e z V-425 and t h e n a d d i t i o n a l i n g r e d e n t s w h i l e m i x i n g c o m p l e t e l y a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0257 s u g g e s t e d b y I S P

SOURCE:

Angus Chemical Co.:

Angus P r o d u c t Formu a r y

Hair Care Products

259

Alcohol-Free Styling Gel Insredients: P a r t A: Dei o n i zed w a t e r O c t y l a c r y l a m i d e (and) a c r y l a t e s (and) b u t y l a m i n o e t h y l m e t h a c r y l a t e c o p o l y m e r (Amphomer) AMP-95 P a r t B: Propylene g l y c o l C o c a m i d o p r o p y l PG-dimonium c h l o r i d e (Monaquat P-TC) C o c a m i d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e ( V a r i o n CADG) Lauramide DEA (Monamid 716) P o l y s o r b a t e 20 Quaternium-15

% by Weight 93.03 3.50 0.62

0.50 0.40 0.25 0.20 0.15 0.10

Part C: H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( N a t r o s o l - 2 5 0 HHX) 1.25 Fragrance q.s. Procedure: Combine A . When c o m p l e t e , add B . When homogenous s l o w l y s i f t i n C w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0253 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Hair Setting Gel Setting gel contains conditioning a c t i v e ingredients f o r normal t o d r y h a i r . Inaredients: Part A: E t h a n o l , 96% d e n a t u r e d PVP/VA c o p o l y m e r (PVP/VA E-735) C e t r i m o n i u m c h l o r i d e ( D e h y q u a r t A) P a r t B: Water Carbomer 940 ( C a r b o p o l Color AMP-95

940)

% bv W e i a h t

15.00 4.00 0.50 77.70 0.60 0.20 0.30

Part C: T r i d e c e t h - 9 ( a n d ) PEG-5 o c t a n o a t e (NEO-PCL Water S o l u b l e ) 1 . 0 0 T r i d e c e t h - 9 ( a n d ) PEG-40 H y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l 0.50 Fragrance 0.20 Procedure: S w e l l carbomer i n w a t e r u s i n g an U l t r a t u r r a x s t i r r e r . B l e n d A and C s e p a r a t e l y . Add A t o C . Add AC t o B u s i n g an U l t r a t u r r a x s t i r r e r . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 2 . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0254 s u g g e s t e d b y Dragoco

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

260

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Alcohol-Free Styling Mousse Innredients: P a r t A:

% b y Weight

Octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl m e t h a c r y l a t e (Amphomer) AMP-95 Amodimethicone ( a n d ) nonoxynol 1 0 ( a n d ) t a l l o w t r i m o n i u m chloride Octoxynol-9 ( T r i t o n 2-100) Cocamidopropyl b e t a i n e ( V a r i o n CADG) Quaternium-15 D e i o n i z e d Water Fragrance

2.50 0.40 0.40 0.30 0.10 0.10 48.90 9,s.

P a r t 8: H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( N a t r o s o l 250 HHR) Dei o n i zed Water

0.30 37.00

P a r t C: Isobutane/propane

10.00

Procedure: P r e p a r e A and B . When s o l u t i o n s a r e c o m p l e t e , add A t o 8 ; m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e . Charge w i t h C F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0181 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h

Extra-strong hold, wash o u t .

Setting Lotion f o r a l l c l i m a t i c zones,

easy t o comb and

Ingredients: U l t r a h o l d Strong AMP-95 Ethanol, abs. Water, d i s t i l l e d Perfume o i l

% b y Weiaht 4.00 0.60 20.00 75.40 q.s.

Procedure: P l a c e e t h a n o l , AMP-95, w a t e r and p e r f u m e o i l i n t h e m i x i n g v e s s e l , add U l t r a h o l d S t r o n g , s t i r u n t i l d i s s o l v e d , t h e n f i l l in t o c o n t a i n e r s . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0336 s u g g e s t e d by BASF

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

261

Aqua-Vital Moisturizing Spray (Pump Type)

%w/w A.

D e i o n i z e d Water 84.20 C e l - q u a t L200 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 4 ) 0.20 1.00 Gel-Co ( G e l a t i n ) Methylparaben 0.20 €3. P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 6.00 1.oo G1 y c e r i n Cationic Collagen Polypeptides 0.50 Aqua-Tein C ( C o l l a g e n Amino A c i d s and Acetamide M E A ) 2.00 0.20 D o w i c i 1 200 ( Q u a t e r n i um-1 5 ) C i t r i c Acid, dry 0.40 Quat-Pro S ( S t e a r t r i m o n i u m H y d r o l y z e d Animal P r o t e i n ) 0 . 2 0 C. Isopropyl Alcohol 4.00 Fragrance 0.10 Procedure: Warm Phase A t o b r i n g a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o s o l u t i o n . Add Phase B t o Phase A . Pre-mix Phase C and add t o Phase A / B a t a t e m p e r a t u r e b e l o w 40C. Properties: A pump-type s p r a y w h i c h m o i s t u r i z e s and p r o t e c t s t h e h a i r . Quats a l l o w f o r e a s i e r combing. H i g h m o l e c u l a r w e i g h t p r o t e i n s i m p a r t a smooth, p r o t e c t i v e o u t e r l a y e r w h i l e t h e Amino A c i d s work f r o m w i t h i n . F o r b e s t r e s u l t s , use a pump w h i c h d e l i v e r s a fine mist. F o r m u l a #HE-1607 Every Day Wave Gel Activator

o/aw/w Dei o n i zed Water Carbopol 940 - 2% Aqueous S o l ' n G1 y c e r i n P r o t o - L a n 30 ( P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l and PPG-12-PEG-65 L a n o l i n O i l and H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ) DOW C o r n i n g 193 S u r f a c t a n t ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ) Panthenol Propylene Glycol DMDM H y d a n t o i n S o l u l a n 98 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 80 and C e t y l A c e t a t e and Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (TEA)

3 6 55 25.00 20.00 I

3.00 2.50 0.10 10.00 0.30 2.00 0.55

Procedure: M i x a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r e x c e p t t h e TEA. Add TEA and m i x c a r e f u l l y t o avoid aeration. Properties : S o f t e n s and m o i s t u r i z e s t o h e l p r e t u r n h a i r t o a l o o s e c u r l . The s i l i c o n e s e r v e s t o l u b r i c a t e , add g l o s s and t o " d e - t a c k " t h e h u m e c t a n t s . Good a l l - a r o u n d f o r m u l a f o r d a i l y u s e . Formula #HE-1608

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

262

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Birch Hair Tonic

%w/w

C e t i o l HE E t h y l /is o p r o p y l a1 coho1 E x t r a p o n b i r c h spec. Perfume o i l , w a t e r - s o l u b l e Water F o r m u l a N o . WA51-01

2.0 30.0 1.o 1.o

66.0

Hair Tonic, Oily

%w/w

C e t i o l HE D e h y q u a r t SP Isopropyl alcohol Eumulgin L Water F o r m u l a No. WA51-02

3.0 0.4 20.0 0.7 75.9

Hair Tonic, Fat-Free %w/W 0.4

Dehyquart A Isopropyl alcohol Eumulgin L Water Formul a No. WA51-03

20.0 1.o

70.6

Hair Tonic, Fat-Free

%w/w 0.4 20.0 0.7 70.9

D e h y q u a r t SP Isopropyl alcohol Eumulgin L Water F o r m u l a No. WA51-04 Hair Tonic for Greasy Hair

%w/W 30.0 0.5 4.0 1.o 0.5 1.o 0.5

E t h a n o l 96% L u v i s k o l K30 1 , 2 - p r o p y l ene g l y c o l L a m a c i t ER Nutrilan I Lamepon PA-TR Perfume Water F o r m u l a N o . WA51-05

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA:

62.5

Cosmetic Model

Formulae

Hair Care Products

263

Bleaching Cream

"/ow/w 30.0 Emulgade F C e t i o l V o r Eutanol G 5.0 I 1 Water 57.0 I11 Ammonia 25% 8.0 N o t e : I f used a t a r a t i o o f 1 : 1 , t h e cream i s mixed w i t h d i l u t e d hydrogen p e r o x i de and c a r b a m i d e p e r o x i d e t a b 1 e t s d i s s o l ved i n w a t e r . The hydrogen p e r o x i d e c o n c e n t r a t i o n can be between 3 and 10%. The German c o s m e t i c s l e g i s l a t i o n l i m i t s t h e use o f ammonia t o a maximum p e r m i s s a b l e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f 6% ( c a l c u l a t e d as NH3) and r e q u i r e s a d e c l a r a t i o n f o r c o n c e n t r a t i o n s f r o m 2% u p w a r d s . The NH3 c o n t e n t o f t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n i s 2%. F o r m u l a N o . UD11-01 I

Bleaching Emulsion &WJ

w

I

2.0 Emulaade F C e t i o l V o r Eutanol G 2.5 Wool f a t , anhydrous 1.5 I 1 Water 90.0 I 1 1 Ammonia 25% 4.0 N o t e : The e m u l s i o n i s s t i r r e d w i t h c o n c e n t r a t e d hydrogen p e r o x i d e o r carbamide p e r o x i d e t a b l e t s w i t h o u t t h e a d d i t i o n o f w a t e r and so u s e d . The German c o s m e t i c s l e g i s l a t i o n l i m i t s t h e use o f ammonia t o a maximum p e r m i s s a b l e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f 6% ( c a l c u l a t e d as NH3) and r e q u i r e s a d e c l a r a t i o n f o r c o n c e n t r a t i o n s f r o m 2% upwards. The NH3 c o n t e n t o f t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n i s 1 . 0 % . Formula No. UD21-01 Bleaching Oil, Gelatinizing

YOWY

Comperlan KD 39.0 Comperlan OD 35.0 Comperlan 100 5.0 Emulgade F s p e c . 5.0 I 1 Isopropyl alcohol 10.0 111 Ammonia 25% 6.0 N o t e : When used, t h e l o t i o n i s m i x e d w i t h h y d r o g e n p e r o x i d e (any percentage) a t a r a t i o o f 2 : 3 . A transparent gel i s obtained. The German c o s m e t i c s l e g i s l a t i o n l i m i t s t h e use o f ammonia t o a maximum p e r m i s s a b l e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f 6% ( c a l c u l a t e d as NH3) and r e q u i r e s a d e c l a r a t i o n f o r c o n c e n t r a t i o n s f r o m 2% upwards. The NH3 c o n t e n t o f t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n i s 1 . 5 % . Formula No. UD31-02 I

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model Formulae

264

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Blow Drying Lotion

%w/w D e h y q u a r t SP E t h y l /is o p r o p y l a l c o h o l Water F o r m u l a No. WD51-01

0.6 60.0 39.4 Blow Drying Lotion

%w/w D e h y q u a r t SP Nasuna B * ) Ethyl/isopropyl alcohol Water F o r m u l a No. WD51-03

0.6 1.5 50.0 47.9 Blow Drying Lotion

%w/w D e h y q u a r t LT C e t i o l HE Ethyl/isopropyl alcohol Water F o r m u l a No. WD51-05

0.4 1.5 50.0 4%.1 Blow Drying Lotion

%w/w G a f q u a t 734 D e h y q u a r t SP E u m u l g i n RO 40 E t h y l / i sopropyl alcohol Water F o r m u l a No. WD51-08

2.0 0.3 0.2 47.5 50.0

Blow Drying Lotion, Clear

%w/w Dehyquart A Nasuna B * ) Eumulgin L Isopropyl alcohol Water F o r m u l a No. WD51-10

0.4 1.o 0.6 20.0 78.0

Blow Drying Solution, Aerosol-Packed

%w/w Nasuna B * ) E t h y l / i sopropyl alcohol D e h y q u a r t SP Water N o t e : F i l l i n g : 40 p a r t s s o l u t i o n 60 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t 12/114 F o r m u l a No. WD71-01 Note:

2.0 30.0 0.3 67.7 (40:60)

* ) The Nasuna t y p e s a r e n o t f o r s a l e i n West Germany.

V a r i o u s PVP/VA t y p e s on t h e m a r k e t c a n b e r e f e r r e d t o .

SOURCE: H e n k e l KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

Hair Care Products

265

Bodifying Sculpting Lotion T h i s c l e a r f o r m u l a combi nes good h o l d i ng power w i t h c o n d i t i oni n g , p r o d u c i n g a b o d y f y i n g s c u l p t i n g l o t i o n w h i c h p r o v i d e s easy s t y l a b i l i t y . H a i r a c q u i r e s more body and a s o f t e r , s i l k i e r f e e l f r o m t h e u n i q u e c o m b i n a t i o n o f b o d y i n g and s t y l i n g p r o p e r t i e s w h i c h C r o d a c e l QM i m p a r t s t o t h i s l o t i o n - an e f f e c t o f coval e n t l y b o n d i n g a f a t t y q u a t e r n a r y g r o u p t o a c e l l u l o s e backbone. Super S o l a n F l a k e d i s used t o p l a s t i c i z e t h e r e s i n . Inqredients: SDA-40 A l c o h o l Amphomer 28-4910 Super S o l a n F l a k e d

% by Weiaht

40.00 1.oo 0.50

A.

B.

1 .oo 0.16 57.34

C r o d a c e l QM AMP-95 D e i o n i zed w a t e r

Procedure: Dust t h e copolymer o f P a r t A i n t o t h e a l c o h o l , m i x i n g w e l l u n t i l c l e a r and t h e n add Super S o l a n F l a k e d w i t h m i x i n g . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t 8 w i t h m i x i n g and add t o P a r t A , m i x i n g until clear. F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0322 s u g g e s t e d b y Croda I n c . 55% VOC Pump Hair Spray Inaredients: Water Ethanol AMP-95 Acudyne 255 (41% s o l i d s ) Dow C o r n i n g 190 F l u i d

% b y Weight 6.80

80.00 0.56 12.50 0.10

Procedure: M i x w a t e r , e t h a n o l , AMP-95 and p l a s t i c i z e r . Add p o l y m e r w i t h s t i r r i n g . Mix u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r . Properties: C l o u d P o i n t : (-22F V i s c o s i t y : 5 c p s , s p i n d l e # 1 @ 60 rpm F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0317 s u g g e s t e d by Rohm and Haas

SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.': Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

266

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Brushing Gel

Wt% A.

Amihope LL POE ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n M o n o l a u r a t e POE ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n M o n o s t e a r a t e POE ( 2 5 ) G l y c e r y l M o n o p y r o g l u t a m a t e M o n o i s o s t e a r a t e Propylene Glycol Grape Seed O i l

B.

Carboxyvinylpolymer D e i o n i z e d Water Preservatives

C.

10% w t .

(Carbopol 940)

0.5 0.5 0.5 1.o 2.0 0.5

(1.0% w t % solution) 50.0 balance 0.2

NaOH S o l u t i o n

2.0

Procedure: 1 . Weigh each i n g r e d i e n t s ( A ) i n 2 . Add ( 8 ) t o t h e f o r m e r m i x t u r e stirring. 3 . A f t e r d i s s o l u t i o n , c o o l down t ( C ) t o t h e mixed s o l u t i o n and

g l a s s v e s s e l and m i x . and h e a t t o 70-8OC w i t h o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Then add i t t u r n s t o gel s t a t e .

Note: T h i s b r u s h i n g g e l r e d u c e s an e l e c t r o s t a t i c c h a r g e p r o d u c e d by combing and l e a d s t o smooth c o m b i n g . Hair Rinse ytit A.

Cetanol A m i t e r LGOD-2 G l y c e r y l Monostearate, S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g (HLB 11) Amihope L L

8 . 1 ,3-Butylene Glycol S t e a r y l t r im e t h y l Ammon i um Ch 1 o r i de Methylparaben Water

Procedure: 1. Dissolve 2. Dissolve 3 . Add ( 8 ) t 4 . M i x them

(A) a t 8 O C . (B) a t 8OC. o (A). w i t h a homomixer, and c o o l t o 30C.

Note: T h i s creamy h a i r r i n s e has l i g h t f i n i s h i n g t o u c h .

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U S A ,

I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

3.0 5.0 2.0

3.0 5.0

3.0 0.2 the rest

Hair Care Products

267

Brushing Lotion A.

Amihope L L POE ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n M o n o l a u r a t e POE ( 2 5 ) G l y c e r y l M o n o p y r o g l u t a m a t e M o n o i s o s t e a r a t e P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l

8. Stearyl Alcohol C a r b o x y v i n y l p o l y m e r ( C a r b o p o l 941 ) ( 0 . 5 w t % s o l u t i o n ; n e u t r a l i z e d by NaOH) Dei o n i zed Water Preservatives C.

Prodew 100 Ethanol

Wtgb 0.5 1.5

1.o 2.0

0.5 15.0 balance 0.2

0.2 5.0

Procedure: 1 . Weigh each i n g r e d i e n t ( A ) i n g l a s s v e s s e l and m i x . 2 . Add ( B ) t o t h e f o r m e r m i x t u r e and h e a t t o 70-80C w i t h stirring. 3 . A f t e r d i s s o l u t i o n , c o o l down t o 50C. Then add (C) t o t h e mixed solution. 4 . W i t h s t i r r i n g , c o o l down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Note: T h i s b r u s h i n g l o t i o n r e d u c e s an e l e c t r o s t a t i c c h a r g e p r o d u c e d by combing and l e a d s a smooth combing. Hair Brushing Lotion Wtgb

Amihope L L POE ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n M o n o l a u r a t e ( P o l y s o r b a t e 2 0 ) Water Ethanol

1.o 1.o 50.0 48.0

Procedure: M i x a l l components a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . Note: T h i s h a i r b r u s h i n g l o t i o n has good a n t i s t a t i c e f f e c t and smoothness f o r t h e h a i r . Amihope LL a c t s as h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t i n s t e a d o f t h e cationic surfactant. Usage : Spray t h e h a i r b e f o r e b r u s h i n g .

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

268

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cationic Thermal Styling Mousse (Nonaerosol-For Foamers) A.

S u p r o - T e i n V (Tea-Cocoyl H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ( a n d Sorbi t o 1 ) K e r a - T e i n 1 00 0 AS ( E t h y l E s t e r o f H y d r o l y z e d K e r a i n ) Ameroxol OE-20 ( O l e t h - 2 0 ) Dimethicone Copolyol P o l y o x WSR N-3000 (2% Aq. S o l n . ) (PEG-14M)

Cocoamphocarboxypropionate

3.00 3.00 0.25 0.25 1.50 1 .oo 82.00

D e i o n i z e d Water B. Amersette (Methacrylol E t h y l Betaine/Methacrylates Copolymer) 1.oo SD A l c o h o l 40, Anhydrous 8.00 Fragrance, Preservatives 9,s. Procedure: 1 . Heat t h e w a t e r i n Phase A t o 65C. Add t h e r e s t o f Phase A t o t h e w a t e r and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . 2 . D i s s o l v e t h e A m e r s e t t e i n t h e A l c o h o l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . 3 . S l o w l y add Phase B t o Phase A . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. Properties: T h i s n o n a e r o s o l s t y l i n g mousse u t i l i z e s A m e r s e t t e and KeraT e i n 1 00 0 AS as s t y l i n g a g e n t s f o r l o n g - l a s t i n g h o l d p r o p e r t i e s . The K e r a - T e i n 1000 AS, a s u b s t a n t i v e c a t i o n i c p r o t e i n , a l s o adds a n a t u r a l s h i n e and p r o t e c t i v e p r o p e r t i e s . S u p r o - T e i n V enhances t h e q u a l i t y o f t h e mousse foam w h i l e c o n d i t i o n i n g t h e h a i r . P o l y o x WSR N-3000 enhances combing and shine characteristics. F o r m u l a #HF-1406 Firm Hold

Cationic Hair Spray

%w/w A l c o h o l SD-40A 75.00 G a n t r e z ES-225 ( E t h y l E s t e r o f PVM/MA Copolymer) 10.00 Dow C o r n i n g 1 9 0 P o l y e t h e r ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ) 0.10 Fragrance 0.10 A m i n o m e t h y l P r o p a n o l -95 0.18 Water 13.62 P r o - T e i n ES-20 ( E t h y l E s t e r o f H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ) 1 .oo Procedure: 1 . Add a l c o h o l t o m i x i n g v e s s e l . 2 . Add t h e G a n t r e z t o t h e A l c o h o l . M i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . 3 . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d , one a t a t i m e and m i x i ng i n between a d d i t i o n s . Properties: An e x c e l l e n t h a i r s p r a y f o r h a r d - t o - h o l d h a i r . The P r o - T e i n ES-20 and DC-190 p l a s t i c i z e t h e r e s i n and i m p r o v e s h i n e and combing a b i l i t y . P r o - T e i n ES-20 i s a c a t i o n i c , s u b s t a n t i v e p r o t e i n w h i c h g i v e s t h e h a i r a n a t u r a l l o o k and f e e l . F o r m u l a #HF-1400 SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products

269

Cold Wave Cream Lanette 0 16.00 E u m u l g i n 05 2.50 Eumulgin 010 2.50 C e t i o l V o r Eutanol G 5.00 I 1 Water 42.55 0.20 T u r p i n a l SL I 1 1 Ammonia 25% 18.75 I V T h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d 80% 12.50 N o t e : The German c o s m e t i c s l e g i s l a t i o n l i m i t s t h e t h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d c o n t e n t i n p r o d u c t s f o r p e r s o n a l u s e t o 8% and i n p r o d u c t s f o r c o m m e r c i a l u s e t o 1 1 % . The pH must n o t exceed 9 . 5 . The pH o f t h i s f o r m u l a i s 7 . 5 - 9 . 5 . Because o f t h e t h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d c o n t e n t i n t h e f o r m u l a s UA 11-01, -02 and UA 21-01 o f a p p r o x . 10%, t h e s e c o l d wave p r e p a r a t i o n s a r e o n l y p e r m i s s i b l e f o r commercial u s e . P r e p a r a t i o n ( v a l i d f o r a l l c o l d wave e m u l s i o n s ) : The f a t t y s u b s t a n c e s a r e m e l t e d a t 70-8OC. The w a t e r i s a l s o h e a t e d t o 70-80C and s t i r r e d i n t o t h e f a t m e l t . The m i x t u r e i s c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C w h i l s t s t i r r i n g and t h e e m u l s i o n f o r m s . Ammonia i s c a r e f u l l y s t i r r e d i n and t h e n s l o w l y n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h t h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d w h i l e being cooled. Due t o t h e r i s k o f d i s c o l o r a t i o n , c o n t a c t w i t h m e t a l s h o u l d b e avoided. F o r m u l a No. UA11-01

I

Hair Straightening Cream

"/.f_w Lanette 0 14.0 E u m u l g i n 05 2.0 2.0 Eumulgin 010 Comperlan KD 2.0 Cetiol V 2.0 1 1 T u r p i n a l SL 0.2 Borax 0.5 Water 47.9 I 1 1 Ammonia (25%) 18.9 I V T h i o g l y c o l i c A c i d (95%) 10.5 P r e p a r a t i o n : A l l t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f I a r e w e i g h e d and m e l t e d a t a p p r o x . 80C. The w a t e r , i n w h i c h T u r p i n a l SL and Borax h a v e been d i s s o l v e d , i s a l s o h e a t e d t o 80-9OC and s t i r r e d i n t o t h e f a t m e l t w h i c h i s k e p t a t 80-9OC i n a w a t e r b a t h . The m i x t u r e i s t h e n c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C a t w h i c h s t a g e t h e emuls on i s f o r m e d . Ammonia i s c a r e f u l l y added w h i l e s t i r r i n g and i n a l l y t h e t h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d i s added w h i l e t h e m i x t u r e i s b e ng c o o l e d and s t i r r e d . The h a i r s t r a i g h t e n i n g cream h a s a pH o f between 9 and 9 . 3 . Formula No. U A l l - 0 2

I

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

270

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cold Wave Cream

%w/w Lanette 0 16.00 E u m u l g i n 05 2.50 E u m u l g i n 010 2.50 I I Water 52.77 T u r p i n a l SL 0.20 I 1 1 Ammonia (25%) 15.50 I V T h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d (95%) 10.53 N o t e : C o l d wave cream f o r p r o f e s s i o n a l use. P r e p a r a t i o n : M e l t I a t 70-8OC. Heat I 1 t o 70-8OC and s t i r i n t o I. Keep s t i r r i n g u n t i l t h e m i x t u r e i s c o o l e d t o under 30C ( e m u l s i f i c a t i o n ) . Add t h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d , n e u t r a l i z e w i t h ammonia/monoethanolamine w h i l e s t i r r i n g and c o o l i n g , s e t t i n g pH t o 9.2. F o r m u l a No. UA11-03

I

Cold Wave Emulsion

y v J r Emulgade 1000 N I 5.00 Water 68.77 T u r p i n a l SL 0.20 I 1 1 Ammonia (25%) 15.50 I V T h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d (95%) 10.53 P r e p a r a t i o n : M e l t I a t 70-8OC. Heat I 1 t o 70-8OC and s t i r i n t o I. Keep s t i r r i n g u n t i l t h e m i x t u r e i s c o o l e d t o under 30C ( e m u l s i f i c a t i o n ) . Add t h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d , n e u t r a l i z e w i t h ammoni a / m o n o e t h a n o l a m i n e w h i l e s t i r r i n g and c o o l i n g , s e t t i n g pH t o 9.2. N o t e : C o l d wave e m u l s i o n f o r p r o f e s s i o n a l use. Formula No. UA21-01

I I1

Cold Wave Emulsion

%w/w Emulgade 1000 N I 5.00 Water 76.75 T u r p i n a l SL 0.20 ( t o PH 7 ) 4.90 1 1 1 Monoethanol ami n e ( t o pH 9 . 2 ) 5.25 Di i s o p r o p a n o l ami ne I V T h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d (95%) 7.90 P r e p a r a t i o n : M e l t I a t - 7 0 - 8 0 C . Heat I 1 t o 70-8OC and s t i r i n t o I. Keep s t i r r i n g u n t i l t h e m i x t u r e i s c o o l e d t o under 30C ( e m u l s i f i c a t i o n ) . Add t h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d , n e u t r a l i z e w i t h ammonia/ monoethanolamine w h i l e s t i r r i n g and c o o l i n g , s e t t i n g pH t o 9 . 2 . N o t e : C o l d wave e m u l s i o n f o r g e n e r a l u s e . Formula No. UA21-03

I I1

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic

Model Formulae

Hair Care Products

271

Cold Wave Emulsion, Foaming

sbw/w Emulgade 1000 NI 2.0 Texapon MLS 2.0 I I Water 76.6 Turpinal SL 0.2 I 1 1 Ammonia (25%) 11.3 I V T h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d (95%) 7.9 N o t e : T h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d c o n t e n t a p p r o x . 7.5%. C o l d wave e m u l s i o n f o r g e n e r a l use. P r e p a r a t i o n : M e l t I a t 70-8OC. Heat I 1 t o 70-80C and s t i r i n t o I . Keep s t i r r i n g u n t i l t h e m i x t u r e i s c o o l e d t o u n d e r 30C ( e m u l s i f i c a t i o n ) . Add t h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d , n e u t r a l i z e w i t h ammonia/monoethan o l a m i n e w h i l e s t i r r i n g and c o o l i n g , s e t t i n g pH t o 9 . 2 . F o r m u l a No. UA21-04

I

Cold Wave Solution, Foaming, Clear

%w/w Texapon MLS 3.0 0.5 Dehydol 1OODEO 79.2 I 1 Water T u r p i n a l SL 0.2 I 1 1 T h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d 95% 7.9 I V Monoethanolami ne 9.2 N o t e : T h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d c o n t e n t a p p r o x . 7 . 5 % . C o l d wave f o r g e n e r a l use. P r e p a r a t i o n : I 1 i s added t o I, t h e n t h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d i s added. W h i l e s t i r r i n g and c o o l i n g , n e u t r a l i z e w i t h m o n o e t h a n o l a m i n e , s e t t i n g pH t o 9 . 2 . F o r m u l a No. UA61-01

I

Cold Wave Solution, Clear, Foaming

s/ow/w Texapon MLS Dehydol 100 D E 0 I 1 V i s c o n t r a n HEC 30 000 PR (29% aqueous s o l u t i o n ) I 1 1 Water T u r p i n a l SL I V T h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d 95% V Monoethanolami ne

I

3.0 0.5 10.0 69.2 0.2 7.9 9.2

N o t e : T h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d c o n t e n t 7 . 5 % . C o l d wave s o l u t i o n f o r general use. P r e p a r a t i o n : I i s added t o I 1 1 t h e n 1 1 i s s t i r r e d i n . Add t h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d and w h i l e s t i r r i n g and c o o l i n g n e u t r a l i z e w i t h monoethanolamine, s e t t i n g pH to 9 . 2 . F o r m u l a No. UA61-03

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model Formulae

272

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cold Wave Fixative, Foaming Emulgade F 5.0 Water 40.0 I 1 Sodium b r o m a t e 10.0 Water 40.0 I 1 1 Texapon N40 5.0 N o t e : When u s i n g t h e f o r m u l a , d i l u t e 1 : l w i t h w a t e r . P r e p a r a t i o n : M e l t Emulgade F . S t i r i n t h e w a t e r h e a t e d t o 8OC. A f t e r c o o l i n g , add phase I 1 as a s o l u t i o n , t h e n s t i r i n Texapon N40. Formula No. UB21-01 I

Cold Wave Fixative, Foaming, In Emulsion Form

I Emulgade F s p e c . II Water

1. o 82.6 1.2 0.2

C i t r i c acid T u r p i n a l SL I11 Texapon N25/N40 5.0 I V Hydrogen p e r o x i d e 30% 10.0 S e t pH t o a p p r o x . 4 . 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d o r T u r p i n a l SL. N o t e : When u s i n g t h e f o r m u l a , d i l u t e 1 : l w i t h w a t e r . P r e p a r a t i o n : M e l t Emulgade F . S t i r i n t h e h o t w a t e r i n w h i c h t h e c i t r i c a c i d was d i s s o l v e d . A f t e r c o o l i n g , add f i r s t Texapon N25 and t h e n H202. German c o s m e t i c s l e g i s l a t i o n l i m i t s t h e H202 c o n t e n t t o 12% and r e q u i r e s t h e d e c l a r a t i o n " C o n t a i n s 3% H202". F o r m u l a No. UD21-03

Cold Wave Fixative in Emulsion Form

%w/w Emulgade F s p e c . 5.0 E u m u l g i n B1 0.5 I 1 Dehyquart A 5.0 Water 81.3 0.2 T u r p i n a l SL I11 Hydrogen p e r o x i d e (30%) 8.0 P r e p a r a t i o n : M e l t phase I,s t i r phase I 1 ( a p p r o x . 8 O C ) i n t o phase I.A l l o w t o cool, s t i r r i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y , t h e n add phase 111. Formula No. UB21-05 I

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

Hair Care Products

273

Cold Wave Fixative, Foaming

%w/w Texapon N40 C i t r i c acid Water Hydrogen p e r o x i d e 30% Sodium p y r o p h o s p h a t e , a c i d i c N o t e : Use i n u n d i l u t e d f o r m . D e c l a r a t i o n : " C o n t a i n s 1 . 5 % H202"

15.0 0.5 79.0 5.0 0.5

Cold Wave Fixative with Bromate

%w/w Olamin K 10.0 Sodi urn b r o m a t e 5.0 Potassium bromate 2.0 Lamesoft 1 5 6 2.0 Water 70.7 Carbopol 940 1.o Triethanolamine 1.3 P r e p a r a t i o n : S t r t o g e t h e r Olamin K w i t h sodium b r o m a t e , p o t a s s i um and Lamesoft 1 5 6 u n t i l t h e sodium b r o m a t e and p o t a s s i u m bromate f u l l y d s s o l v e d . Then d i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l 940 ( s p r i n k l e i n t h r o u g h a s i e v e , s t i r r i n g w e l l and n e u t r a l i z e w i t h t r i e t h a n o l amine (pH 7 ) . F o r m u l a No. U61-03 Cold Wave Fixative, Foam, Aerosol-Packed

o/,w/w Texapon A Water P o t a s s i um bromate N o t e : D e s i r e d pH: 4 . 0 - 4 . 5 F i l l i n g : 92 p a r t s p r o d u c t 8 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t 12:114 (40:60) Speci a1 s p r a y n o z z l e n e c e s s a r y . Formula No. UB71-01

15.0 81 . O 4.0

Base for Hair Dye Creams

3/ow/w L a n e t t e N o r S X , Emulgade F o r F s p e c . C e t i o l V o r E u t a n o l G, p a r a f f i n o i l o r v e g e t a b l e o i l Beeswax o r C u t i n a C P , wool f a t o r wool f a t a l c o h o l s , r e f i ned I 1 Water Formula No. UC 11-01

I

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

15.0 10.0 5.0 70.0

274

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioner White,

high viscosity

M a t e r ia1 / C T F A - I ndex : T y l o s e H 4000 P / H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e W-.a. ter

Cetyl Alcohol B e l s i l ADM 6057 E/Amodimethicone ( a n d ) T a l l o w t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ( a n d ) Nonoxynol-10 Preservatives, fragrances

1.80% 91.20 2.00 5.00 4,s.

M i x T y l o s e H 4000 P i n t o t h e w a t e r and w h i l s t s t i r r i n g b r i n g t o a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 70C. M e l t t h e c e t y l a l c o h o l and s t i r i n t o t h e c l e a r T y l o s e s l i m e . Cool and add B e l s i l ADM 6057 E . Temperature s t a b i l i t y :

a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks.

F o r m u l a t i o n 231 AH

Creamy, easy t o comb,

Conditioner reduces d r y i n g t i m e .

Material/CTFA-Index: B e l s i l CM 0 4 0 / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e Lamecreme KSM/Glyceryl S t e a r a t e se Cetyl Alcohol Water Preservatives, fragrances

5.00% 3.00

I

.oo

91 . o o 9,s.

Heat Lamecreme KSM and t h e c e t y l a l c o h o l t o 70C, work i n t h e w a t e r s t i r r i n g w e l l , Leave t o c o o l somewhat, m i x i n B e l s i l CM 0 4 0 . Temperature s t a b i l i t y :

a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks.

F o r m u l a t i o n 3 1 1 AH Conditioner S l i g h t l y cloudy, high viscosity. Material/CTFA-Index: A: Water T y l o s e H 4000 P / H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e B: B e l s i l DMC 6035/Methicone C o p o l y o l A c e t a t e B e l s i 1 ADM 6042 E/Amodimethicone (and) E m u l s i f i e r Preservatives, fragrances,

pigments

Mix A w e l l , mix i n B. F o r m u l a t i o n 550 AH SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

2.00 2.50 q.s.

Hair Care Products

275

Conditioner Creamy soft. Produces a good shine and makes hair easy to comb Material/CTFA-Index: 90 30% Water Ethylenglykol/Glycol 3.20 Lanette N/Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate 3.50 I

Belsil ADM 6056 €/Dimethicone (and) Amodimethicone (and) Nonoxynol-4 (and) Nonoxynol-14 Bel si 1 DM 1 OOOOO/Di methi cone Preservatives, Fragrances Heat the glycol to 70C, dissolve Lanette N i n it. Stir 70C hot water, mix in Belsil ADM 6056 E and Belsil DM 1 0 0 Formulation 577 AH

2.50 0.50 q.s

in

000.

Hair Gel Translucent gel. Good hold, wet look. Material/CTFA-Index: Water Carbopol 934/Carbomer 934 Triethanolamine G1 ycer i ne Propylene G1 ycol Belsil DMC 6035/Methicone Copolyol Acetate Preservatives, fragrances

59.50% 0.50 1.20 34.20 2.00 2.30 9,s.

Mix the Carbomer 934 well into the water. Mix i n the others homogeneously. Temperature stability: at 45C over 10 weeks. Formulation 353 AH Hair Fixative For dry hair with slight hold. Mater ia 1 /CTFA- I ndex: Luviskol VA 64/PVP/VA Copolymer Ethanol/Alcohol Water Genami n CTAC/Cet ri moni umchl or i d Propylene G1 ycol Wacker-Belsil DMC 6031/Dimethicone Copolyol Preservative, Fragrances, Pigments

1.50%

30.00 65.00

0.10 0 30 I

1

.oo

q.s

Dissolve Luviskol VA 64 in Alcohol then add the remaining ingredients. Formulation 819 AH SOURCE: Wacker Silicone: Suggested Formulations

276

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioner

A

B

C

. D ..

D e i o n i z e d Water PVP (PVP K-30) Cetylpyridinium Chloride P e c o s i 1 SWPQ-40 ( H y d r o l y z e d Wheat P r o t e i n / DCP Copolymer, Q u a t e r n a r y ) Methylparaben P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l D i s o d i um EDTA Cetyl Alcohol Stearyl Alcohol Lanol i n M i n e r a l O i 1 (Kaydol ) Propylparaben Meadowfoam Seed O i l Tocopheryl Acetate DMDM H y d a n t o i n

79.39% 0.50 1.oo 2.00 0.25 5.00 0.10 1.25 1 .25 0.50 7.75 0.15 0.50 0.01 0.35

Procedure: Add PVP K-30 t o phase A w a t e r , p r o p e l l e r m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add C e t y l p y r i d i n i u m C h l o r i d e and P e c o s i l SWP-83 t o t h e r e s t o f phase A and p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t e u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat phase A t o 72C and t h e n add phase t o phase 8 . H e a t phase C t o 75C. When b o t h phase A B and phase C a r e u n i f o r m and a t t e m p e r a t u r e , add phase C_ t o phase w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Cool &G t o 50C w h i l e c o n t i n u i n g p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Then add phase Q t o K3c, c o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n w h i l e c o o l i n g ABCD t o 35C. Formul a 14-60-A Styling A

~

B

Gel

D e i o n i z e d Water Carbomer 940 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) D e i o n i z e d Water PVP (PVP K-30) P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 1 ( G a f q u a t 755) P e c o s i l SWP-83 ( H y d r o l y z e d Wheat P r o t e i n / D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l Phosphate C o p o l y m e r ) Panthenol Quaternium-15 DMDM H y d a n t o i n

50.00% 0.50 0.63 42.97 1 .oo 4.00 0.50 0.25 0.10 0 05 I

Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n phase A w a t e r w i t h a d e q u a t e a g i t a t i o n . When Carbomer i s u n i f o r m l y d i s p e r s e d , add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e u n d e r s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n . W i t h a d e q u a t e a g i t a t i o n , add PVP t o phase -. B w a t e r , When PVP i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , Add r e m a i n i n g phase B i t e m s . When phase i s u n i f o r m , add phase t o phase A u n d e r s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n . F o r m u l a 14-61 - A

SOURCE:

Phoenix Chemical,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products

277

Conditioning Protein Hair Gel Inaredients: Dei o n i zed Water Carbopol 940 f r i e t h a n o l ami ne Soluble Keratin DMDM H y d a n t o i n Benzophenone 4 Fragrance Color

Wei a h t % 98.0 0.5

Function D i 1u e n t Gel 1 ing Agent N e u t r a l iz e r Protein Preservative UV S t a b i 1 iz e r

0.5 0.5 0.3 0.1 q.s. q.s.

Procedure: 1 , S l o w l y s i f t Carbopol 940 r e s i n i n t o r a p i d l y d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . 2 . Reduce t h e a g i t a t i o n w i t h sweep b l a d e . Add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , k e r a t i n , p r e z e r v a t i v e . benzophenone, and EDTA. M i x u n t i 1 homogeneous. Formula COO28 Hair Setting Gel Ingredients Carbopol 940 Water ( D e i o n i z e d ) PVP/VA Copolymer T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) Water ( D e i o n i z e d ) DMDM H y d a n t o i n D i s o d i u m EDTA 01 e t h - 2 0

Function Gel 1 ing Agent D i 1u e n t Hair Setting Resin N e u t r a l iz i ng Agent D i 1 uent Preservative C h e l a t i n g Agent Lubricant/Fragrance S t a b i l i z e r

Weight% 0.6 80.0

1.o

1.4 16.1

0.3 0.1

0.5

Procedure: 1 . S l o w l y s i f t C a r b o p o l 940 i n t o t h e v o r t e x o f r a p i d l y a g i t a t i n g w a t e r , When r e s i n i s d i s p e r s e d , r e d u c e a g i t a t i o n and m i x u n t i l a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n i s o b t a i n e d . 2 . S e p a r a t e l y combine c o p o l y m e r , t r e i t h a n o l a m i n e , w a t e r , p r e s e r v a t i ve, and d i s o d i um EDTA u n t i 1 d i s s o l ved 3 . Add t o Carbopol d i s p e r s i o n w i t h moderate sweeping a g i t a t i o n . 4 Heat O l e t h - 2 0 t o l i q u i d . Add t o g e l w i t h s l o w m i x i n g .

.

Formula COO29

SOURCE: BF

G o o d r i c h Co.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

278

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioning Rinse Aerosol-Packed, Remains on Hair

I

L a n e t t e 18 2.0 C e t i o l HE 1.o I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 1.0 D e h y q u a r t SP 0.5 Water 95.5 P r e p a r a t i o n : M e l t I a t 70-8OC. Heat I 1 t o 70-8OC and s t i r i n t o I. P r e s e r v i n g and p e r f u m i n g a r e c a r r i e d o u t u n d e r 40C. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o approx. 5 w i t h phosphoric a c i d . F i l l i n g : 90 p a r t s a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t 10 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t ( F r i g e n 1 2 ) V e r t i c a l v a l v e and foam n o z z l e F o r m u l a N o . V871-06 Conditioning Rinse, Aerosol-Packed

%w/w L a n e t t e 16 2.0 C e t i o l HE I .o I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 1.o D e h y q u a r t SP 0.5 Water 55.5 111 E t h a n o l 40.0 P r e p a r a t i o n : I i s m e l t e d a t 75-8OC. I 1 i s h e a t e d t o 70-8OC and s t i r r e d i n t o 1. A f t e r c o o l i n g t o u n d e r 35C e t h a n o l and p e r f u m e o i l a r e added and t h e pH i s a d j u s t e d t o a p p r o x . 5 w i t h phosphoric acid. F i l l i n g : 90 p a r t s a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t 10 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t ( F r i g e n 1 2 ) V a l v e : V e r t i c a l v a l v e and foam n o z z l e F o r m u l a No. VB71-07 I

Hair Conditioner, Aerosol-Packed

"/ow/w I

Emulgade F s p e c i a l 4.0 6.0 Eutanol G I 1 Dehyquart A 4.0 30.0 Water (70-8OC) I11 Cosmedia Guar C261 0.5 H e n k e l G l y c e r i n 86% DAB9 5.0 Water (70-8OC) 50.5 P r e p a r a t i o n : The m e l t e d phase I i s s t i r r e d i n t o phase I 1 u n t i l homogeneous. The Cosmedia Guar C261 i s made i n t o a p a s t e w i t h g l y c e r i n e and s t i r r e d i n t o t h e h o t w a t e r . The t w o c o o l e d phases a r e s t i r r e d t o g e t h e r u n t i l homogeneous and t h e pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 4-5 w i t h p h o s p h o r i c a c i d . F i l l i n g : A e r o s o l c a n s w i t h v e r t i c a l v a l v e s and foam n o z z l e s a r e f i l l e d ( m i n u s 30% s a f e t y volume) w i t h : 92% a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s o l u t i o n and 8% p r o p e l l a n t , e . g . p r o p a n e / b u t a n e 3 . 5 b a r F o r m u l a No. V871-08 SOURCE: H e n k e l KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

Hair Care Products

279

Conditioning Setting Lotion, Clear

%w/w Nasuna B *) Dehyquart SP Cetiol HE Water Formula No. WB51-07

3.0 0.6 1.0 95.4

Conditioning Setting Lotion, Clear Dehyquart SP Luviskol VA 64 Citric acid Water Formula No. WB51-09

%w/w 0.6 2.0 O.3 97.1

Conditioning Setting Lotion, Clear

%w/w 0.5 2.0 97.5

Dehyquart A Luviskol VA 64 Water Formula No. W B 5 1 - 1 0 Conditioning Setting Lotion, Cloudy Nasuna B *) Dehyquart SP Antara 4 3 0 Water Formula No. WB51-12 Setting Lotion, Clear, Oily Nasuna B *) Eumulgi n L Ceti ol HE Dehyquart SP Isopropyl alcohol Water Formula WB51-14

%w/w 3.0 0.6 O.1 96.3 %w/w 2.0 1.2 1.0 0.6 20.0 75.2

Preparation: Nasuna B is dissolved in a l c o h o l , water is added and Carbopol 940 is then stirred in. When Carbopol 940 is u n i formly dispersed, the solution is neutralized with triethanola m i n e and then perfumed. Note: *} The Nasuna types are not for sale in West Germany. V a r i o u s PVP/VA types on the market can be referred to. SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

280

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cream-Rinse Recipe: Genamin KDM-F Behent r i moni um C h l o r i d e Cetyl alcohol

3.75%

A

B

3.00%

92.75%

Water Preservative

q.s.

C

Perfume Dyestuff solution

0.30% q.s.

D

C i t r i c a c i d -->pH 4 . 0

a.s.

Procedure: I M e l t A and B t o g e t h e r a t 75C. I 1 S t i r u n t i l 35C, t h e n add t h e components o f C . I11 F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e pH w i t h D . Formula B I I / 1 0 2 3 Cream-Rinse Reci pe : Genamin KDM-F B e h e n t r i m o n i um C h l o r i d e Genapol L-3 Laureth-3 Cetyl alcohol Jojoba o i l

A

B

Water Preservative

C

Perfume Dyestuff solution

D

C i t r i c a c i d -->pH

1.50% 2.00%

2.50% 1.OO% 92.70% q.s. 0.30% q.s.

4.0

a.s.

Procedure: I M e l t A a t 75C. I1 H e a t B t o 75C. I11 S t i r I 1 i n t o I. I V S t i r u n t i l cool. V A t 35C add t h e components o f C t o I V . VI F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e pH w i t h D . Formula B I I / 1 0 6 0 SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s

Hair Care Products

281

Cream-Rinse Reci pe : Genamin KDM-F Behent r imon i um Chl o r ide H o s t a p h a t K L 340 N T r i l a u r e t h - 4 Phosphate Cetyl alcohol M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i scosi t y B Water Preservative C Perfume Dyestuff solution D C i t r i c a c i d -->pH 4.0

A

2.00%

1.50% 2.00% 2.00% 92 20%

.

q.s.

0.30% q.s. q.s.

Procedure: I M e l t A a t 75C. I 1 Heat B t o 75C. I11 S t i r I1 i n t o I. IV S t i r u n t i l cool. V A t 35C add t h e components o f C t o I V . V I F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e pH w i t h D . Formula B II/1055 Cream-Rinse Reci De: Genamin KDM-F Behentrimonium C h l r o i d e H o s t a p h a t KL 340 N T r i l a u r e t h - 4 Phosphate Cetyl stearyl alcohol Mineral o i 1, high v i scosi t y B Water Genamin KSL PEG-5 S t e a r y l Ammonium L a c t a t e P r e s e r v a t i ve C Perfume D y e s t u f f s o l u t i on D C i t r i c acid-->pH 4.0

A

2 . 50% 1.50%

3.00% 1 .OO% 89.20% 2.50% q.s. 0.30% 9,s. Q . S .

Procedure: I M e l t A a t 75C. I 1 Heat 6 t o 75C. I11 S t i r I1 i n t o I. IV S t i r u n t i l c o o l . V A t 35C add t h e components o f C t o I V . V I F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e pH w i t h D . Formula B II/1054

SOURCE:

H o e c h s t : Guide F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmetics & T o i l e t r i e s

282

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cream-Rinse Reci pe : Genamin DSAC D i s t e a r y l d i m o n i um C h l o r i d e H o s t a c e r i n DGS P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-4 S t e a r a t e Cetyl alcohol M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y

A

B

C

D

1.50%

1.50% 2.00% 1 .OO%

2.00%

Genamin CTAC C e t r i m o n urn C h l o r i d e Water P r e s e r v a iv e

91.70% q.s.

0.30%

Perfume Dyestuff solution

q.s.

q.s.

C i t r i c acid-->pH 4.0

Procedure: I M e l t A a t 75C. I 1 Heat B t o 75C. I11 S t i r I1 i n t o I. IV S t i r u n t i l cool V A t 35C add t h e components o f C t o I V . V I F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e pH w i t h D. Formula B .II/1052 Cream-Rinse Recipe: Genamin DSAC D i s t e a r y l d i m o n i urn C h l o r i d e H o s t a c e r i n T-3 Ceteareth-3 Cetyl alcohol Mineral o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y Genamin KSL PEG-5 S t e a r y l Ammonium L a c t a t e Water Preservative

1.50% 2 . 50% 1 .OO% 2.00%

91.20% q.s. 0.30% q.s.

Perfume Dyestuff solution C i t r i c acid-->pH

1.50%

4.0

9,s.

Procedure: I M e l t A a t 75C. I 1 Heat B t o 75C. I 1 1 S t i r I1 i n t o I. IV S t i r u n t i l cool. V A t 35C add t h e components o f C t o I V . V I F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e pH w i t h D . F o r m u l a B II/1051 SOURCE: H o e c h s t : Guide F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmetics & T o i l e t r i e s

Hair Care Products

283

Curl Activator (Formula 82-1010) % BY W e i q h t

O i l Phase: A1 kamuls GMS Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol P e t r o l a t u m (Penreco) D r a k e o l 10 ( P e n r e c o ) Sesame O i l

3.0 2.0 2.0 6.5

0.1

Water Phase: C e l l o s i ze QP P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Glycerine A1 kamul s GMS S o l u l a n 75 ( A m e r c h o l ) P r e s e r v a t i ve Water Fragrance,

0.5 5.0 4.0 3.5 0.5 Q.S. 72.9

Dye

Q.S.

81 e n d i n q P r o c e d u r e : Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and w h i l e warming t o 75C, l i g h t l y b l e n d i n C e l l o s i z e QP. Once C e l l o s i z e QP i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d , b l e n d i n r e m a i n i n g w a t e r phase i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d . I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , p r e p a r e o i l phase and g e n t l y warm t o 75C. W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add o i l phase t o w a t e r p h a s e . Once s y s t e m i s u n i f o r m , c o o l w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n t o 40-45C and b l e n d i n d y e and fragrance. Use D i r e c t i o n s : L i g h t l y c o a t h a i r w i t h a s m a l l amount o f a c t i v a t o r . Work i n t o h a i r w i t h f i n g e r s . B r u s h and s t y l e . Wave Lotion (Buffered) (Formula 92-1209) A.

M i r a n o l DM A r l a c e l 165 Cetyl Alcohol Stearyl Alcohol

100% Ammonium h y d r o x i d e 25% Ammoni um d i t h i o g l y c o l ic a c i d Dei o n i zed w a t e r Ammonium X y l e n e S u l f o n a t e

6 . Ammonium t h i o g l y c o l a t e

% bv Weiqht 8.0 3.5 1 .o

0.5 10.0 3.0 5.0 q . s t o 100 2.0

Procedure: Heat " A " t o 75C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add "B" t o " A " . C o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n u n t i l uniform. SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : F o r m u l a s

284

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Economy Creme Rinse Conditioner (Formula 86-0902M) M i r a c a r e SCS i s a f l a k e d c o n d i t i o n e r d e v e l o p e d t o p r o d u c e l u x u r i o u s creme b l e n d o f e m o l l i e n t s and c o n d i t i o n i n g r e a d i l y d i s p e r s e s i n 75-80C w a t e r t o products.

concentrate specially r i n s e products. A unique a g e n t s , M i r a c a r e SCS form elegant hai r care

M i r a c a r e SCS Sodium C h l o r i d e C i t r i c Acid F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

% B Y Weiaht 5.0 0.2 0.3

Q.S. 94.5

B l e n d i n q P r o c e d u r e : D i s s o l v e Sodium C h l o r i d e and C i t r i c A c i d i n w a t e r and t h e n h e a t t o 75-8OC. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d M i r a c a r e SCS i n t o h e a t e d w a t e r system. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n c o o l system t o 40C and add compa t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e . Typical Formulation Properties Appearance A f t e r 24 H r s : V i s c o u s , Opaque L o t i o n pH ( 1 0 % A q . ) : 2.5-3.5 % Non V o l a t i l e s : 5-7 CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Water, C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l , PEG-40 C a s t o r O i l , S t e a r a l konium C h l o r i d e , C i t r i c A c i d , Sodium C h l o r i d e , F r a g r a n c e , Preservative, Dye(s). "Light" Creme Rinse Conditioner (Formula 88-0806) O h BY Weiqht

Rhodaquat M242B/99 C e t y l A l c o h o l NF C i t r i c Acid Fragrance, Dye(s), P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

0.80 4.00 0.20 Q.S. 95.00

B l e n d i n q P r o c e d u r e : D i s s o l v e C i t r i c A c i d i n w a t e r and h e a t t o 70-75C. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n Rhodaquat M242B/99 f o l l o w e d b y C e t y l A l c o h o l NF. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , c o o l system t o 40-45C and b l e n d i n c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e . Typical Formulation Properties Appearance A f t e r 24 H o u r s : V i s c o u s , Opaque L o t i o n pH : 2.2-3.2 V i s c o s i t y A f t e r 24 Hours ( 2 5 C ) : 5,000-8,000 cps ( N o . 4 S p i n d l e @ 1 0 RPM) CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , C e t y l A l c o h o l , C e t r i m o n i u m Bromide, C i t r i c Acid, Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye(s).

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : Formulas

Hair Care Products

285

Extra-Firm Holding Hairspray E x t r a s t r o n g h o l d , f o r a l l c l i m a t i c zones, good b r u s h - o u t , good wash-out p r o p e r t i e s .

easy c o m b a b i l i t y , % by Wei g h t 5.00 1 .16 33. a4 60.00 q.s.

Ingredients: L u v i m e r 100 P AMP R e g u l a r Ethanol Dimethyl e t h e r Perfume

Procedure: Combine e t h a n o l , AMP and p e r f u m e . Add L u v i m e r 100 P t o t h e s o l u t i o n and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . C l o u d p o i n t : -35C Pressure: 4.2 bar D e n s i t y : 0 . 7 4 g/cm 3 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0289 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF Firm Holding Hairspray S t r o n g h o l d , f o r a l l c l i m a t i c zones, b r u s h - o u t , good wash-out p r o p e r t i e s .

easy c o m b a b i l i t y ,

good

% by W e i g h t

I n g r e d i en t s : Luvimer 100 P AMP R e g u l a r Ethanol Propane/Butane Perfume

3.00 0.69 46.31 50.00 q.s.

Procedure: Combine e t h a n o l , AMP and p e r f u m e . A d d L u v i m e r 100 P t o t h e s o l u t i o n and mix u n t i l c l e a r . C l o u d p o i n t : -3512 Pressure: 4.0 bar D e n s i t y : 0 . 6 7 g/cm 3 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0290

s u g g e s t e d b y BASF

SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.:

Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

286

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Extra Firm Holding Hairspray E x t r a s t r o n g h o l d , f o r a l l c l i m a t i c zones, good b r u s h - o u t , good wash-out p r o p e r t i e s .

easy c o m b a b i l i t y , % by Wei a h t 5.00 1 .16 43. a 4 50.00 q.s.

Ingredients: L u v i m e r 100 P AMP R e g u l a r Ethanol Propane/Butane Perfume

Procedure: Combine e t h a n o l , AMP and p e r f u m e . Add Luvimer 100 P t o t h e s o l u t i o n and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . C l o u d p o i n t : -35C Pressure: 4 . 0 bar D e n s i t y : 0.68 g/cm 3 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0291 s u g g e s t e d by BASF

80% VOC Hairspray S t r o n g h o l d , f o r a l l c l i m a t i c zones, b r u s h - o u t , good wash-out p r o p e r t i e s .

easy c o m b a b i l i t y ,

good

% b y Weight

Inaredi ents: L u v i m e r 100 P AMP-95 Water Ethanol Dimethyl ether Perfume

5.00 1 .16 13.84 40.00 40.00 q.s.

Procedure: Combine e t h a n o l , AMP-95 and p e r f u m e . Add Luvimer 100 P t o t h e s o l u t i o n and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add w a t e r and mix t h o r o u g h l y . C l o u d p o i n t : -35C P r e s s u r e : 43.2 b a r D e n s i t y : 0 . 8 1 g/cm 3 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0292 s u g g e s t e d by BASF

SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.:

Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

287

Firm Holding Hairspray S t r o n g h o l d , f o r a l l c l i m a t i c zones, b r u s h - o u t , good wash-out p r o p e r t i e s . Inqredients: L u v i m e r 100 P AMP-95 L u v i s k o l VA 37 Water Ethanol Dimethyl e t h e r Perfume

easy c o m b a b i l i t y ,

good

% by W e i a h t 1.oo 0.23 8.00 5.50 22.77 62.50

I

q.s.

Procedure: Combine e t h a n o l , AMP-95 and p e r f u m e . Add L u v i m e r I00 P and L u v i s k o l V A 37 I t o t h e s o l u t i o n and m i x u n t i l c l e a r , add w a t e r and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . C l o u d p o i n t : -35C Pressure: 4.7 b a r D e n s i t y : 0 . 7 5 g/cm 3 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0293 s u g g e s t e d by BASF Hairspray S t r o n g h o l d , f o r a l l c l i m a t i c zones, b r u s h - o u t , good wash-out p r o p e r t i e s . Inqredients: Luvimer 1 0 0 P AMP R e g u l a r L u v i s k o l V A 37 Ethanol Dimethyl e t h e r Perfume

E

easy c o m b a b i l i t y ,

good

% by Weiaht 0.60 0.14 4.80 54.46 40.00 q.s.

Procedure: Combine e t h a n o l , AMP and p e r f u m e . Add L u v i m e r 1 0 0 P and L u v i s k o l VA 37 E t o t h e s o l u t i o n and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . C l o u d p o i n t : -35C Pressure: 3.2 b a r D e n s i t y : 0.77 g/cm 3 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0294 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF

SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

288

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Firm Holding Luster Spritz

% by W e i a h t Inqredients: Stenanhold E x t r a 15.00 AMP' R e g u l a r 0.38 C y c l omethi cone 0.30 Panthenol 0.45 SDA-4OA A1 coho1 83.84 Fragrance q.s. Procedure: Charge a l c o h o l t o m i x i n g v e s s e l . W i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n , add AMP and m i x w e l l . Add S t e p a n h o l d E x t r a and m i x u n t i l t h o r o u g h l y d i s s o l v e d . Add C y c l o m e t h i c o n e , m i x i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Add P a n t h e n o l and m i x w e l l u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add d e s i r e d f r a g r a n c e and m i x w e l l . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0159 s u g g e s t e d b y Stepan Co. Conditioning Firm Hold Hair Spray % by W e i g h t Innredients: 13.75 Stepanhold E x t r a 0.35 AMP R e g u l a r 0.50 Ammonyx KP 0.25 M e t h y l G1 u c e t h - 2 0 85.15 SDA-40A A1 coho1 q.s. Fragrance Procedure: Charge a l c o h o l t o m i x i n g v e s s e l . W i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n , add AMP and m i x w e l l . Add S t e p a n h o l d E x t r a and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Add Ammonyx KP and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add m e t h y l g l u c e t h - 2 0 and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Add d e s i r e d f r a g r a n c e and m i x w e l l . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0160 s u g g e s t e d b y Stepan Co. Medium Hold Sheen Spray Inqredients: % by Weiqht SteDanhold E x t r a 11.25 AMP' R e g u l a r 0.29 Dimethicone Copolyol S u r f a c t a n t 0.25 PEG-75 L a n o l i n 0.15 SDA-40A A1 coho1 88.04 q.s. Fragrance Procedure: Charge a l c o h o l t o m i x i n g v e s s e l . W i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n , add AMP and m i x w e l l . Add S t e p a n h o l d E x t r a and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l ved Add d i m e t h i cone c o p o l yo1 and m i x t h o r o u g h 1 y Add PEG-75 l a n o l i n and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add d e s i r e d f r a g r a n c e and m i x w e l l . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0161 s u g g e s t e d b y Stepan Co.

.

SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co. : Angus Chemical F o r m u l a r y

.

Hair Care Products

289

Foam Conditioner for Body and Volume, Aerosol-Packed

%w/w Nasuna B * ) Cosmedia P o l y m e r HSP 1180 E u m u l g i n SML 20 Ethanol Water

2.0 8.0 0.3 15.0 74.7

N o t e : A d j u s t pH t o 6 w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e F i l l i n g : 92 p a r t s p r o d u c t 8 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t propane/butane 3.5 bar V a l v e : V e r t i c a l v a l v e and foam n o z z l e F o r m u l a No. WB71-08 Setting Lotion, Aerosol-Packed

%w/w I

Nasuna B * ) E t h a n o l 96% Dehydol 100

I1

E u m u l g i n SML 20 E u m u l g i n RO 40 Perfume

5.0 10.0 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1

I11 Water

84.6

P r e p a r a t i o n : Phases I and I 1 a r e m i x e d u n t i l homogeneous and t h e n phase I11 i s added. F i l l i n g : A e r o s o l c a n s w i t h v e r t i c a l v a l v e and foam n o z z l e a r e f i l l e d ( m i n u s 30% s a f e t y volume) w i t h : 92% a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s o l u t i o n 8% p r o p e l l a n t , e . g . p r o p a n e / b u t a n e 3 . 5 b a r F o r m u l a No. WB71-10 N o t e : * ) The Nasuna t y p e s a r e n o t f o r s a l e i n West Germany. V a r i o u s PVP/VA t y p e s on t h e m a r k e t c a n b e r e f e r r e d t o . Foam Conditioner Lamequat L Dehyton K l I 2 - p r o p y 1 ene g l y c o l Lamaci t GML-12 E t h a n o l 96% Perfume Water

% B 6.0 3.0 10.0 2.0 20.0 0.3 58.7

P r e p a r a t i o n : M i x p e r f u m e w i t h L a m a c i t GML-12 and e t h a n o l . The r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s a r e added i n t h e o r d e r g i v e n . F o r m u l a No. WB71-11

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

290

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Foaming Anti-Dandruff Hair Conditioner % by W e i g h t

Inqredients: Cetyltrimethylammonium bromide Hydroxyethyl c e l l u l o s e Sodi um h y d r o x i de Polymer JR 30M Bronopol Z i n c p y r i d i n e t h i one Perfume and c o l o r Water F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0112 A p r i l 1985

10.00 1 .oo 0.15 0.50 0.01 0.35 q.s q . s . t o 100

f r o m C o s m e t i c s and T o i l e t r i e s ,

Vol 100,

Flexible Styler Hair Spray O h by W e i g h t

Ingredients: A l c o h o l SD-40 AMP R e g u l a r Resyn 28-2930 Crodamol PTC Lanezol AWS C r o t e i n ADW

98.20 0.10

1 .oo 0.20 0.20 0.30

Procedure: Add i n g r e d i e n t s t o a l c o h o l i n t h e o r d e r g i v e n w i t h m i x i n g Fill. F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0343 s u g g e s t e d by Croda,

Inc.

Permethyl Non-Aerosol Hair Spray-Low VOC Inqredients: SDA 40-2-200 G a n t r e z ES-225

% by Weiqht

A.

B . AMP R e g u l a r

P e r m e t h y l 101A P e r m e t h y l 102A V i g i l a n AWS

C.

Fragrance

74.00 9.20 0.40 5.15 10.00 1.oo

0.25

Procedure: M i x A t o g e t h e r u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . S l o w l y add B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x u n t i l c l e a r s o l u t i o n d e v e l o p s . Next add f r a g r a n c e as d e s i r e d . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0342 s u g g e s t e d b y P r e s p e r s e I n c .

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

291

Gel Curl Activator With Lanolin Ingredient: P a r t A: Carbopol 9 4 0 R e s i n ( 1 ) D e i o n i z e d Water Hydrogenated S t a r c h H y d r o x y l a t e ( 2 ) G1 y c e r i n P a r t B: PEG-60 L a n o l i n ( 3 ) Propylene Glycol Dimethicone Copolyol ( 4 ) T r i e t h a n o l ami ne ( 9 9 % ) M e t h y l Parabens D i s o d i u m EDTA ( 5 )

Weiaht% 0.50 55.90 9.60 22.40

5.00 3.00 2.30 1-00 0.20 0.10

Function G e l l i n g Agent D i 1u e n t G l o s s , Sheen Humectant Conditioning Humectant Lubricant Neutralizer Preservative C h e l a t i n g Agent

( 1 ) BF G o o d r i c h Co. ( 2 ) Glyco D i v i s i o n ,

Lonza

( 3 ) Croda, I n c . ( 4 ) Dow C o r n i n g ( 5 ) Dow Chemical P r e p a r a t i o n Procedure: 1 ) S l o w l y s i f t C a r b o p o l 940 i n t o v o r t e x o f w a t e r , s t a r c h , and glycerin while rapidly agitating. 2 ) S e p a r a t e l y combine P a r t 8, add t o P a r t A w i t h moderate sweeping a g i t a t i o n . Formula COO25 Clear Curl Activator Gel

I n g r e d i en t s : Water Carbopol 9 4 0 G1 y c e r i n Propylene Glycol M e t h y l Parabens P r o p y l Parabens T r i e t h a n o l ami ne ( 9 9 % ) D i s o d i um EDTA Fragrance

Weiaht%

70.6 0.5 10.0

10.0 0.2 0.1 0.5 0.1 q.s.

Function Diluent G e l l i n g Agent Humectant Humectant Preservative P r e s e r v a t i ve N e u t r a l iz e r C h e l a t i n g Agent

Procedure: 1 . S l o w l y s i f t C a r b o p o l 940 i n t o t h e m r t e x o f r a p i d l y a g i t a t i n g w a t e r . When r e s i n i s d i s p e r s e d , r e d u c e a g i t a t i o n and m i x u n t i l homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n i s o b t a i n e d . 2 . S e p a r a t e l y combine g l y c e r i n e , g l y c o l , p a r a b e n s , t r i e t h a n o l amine, EDTA, and f r a g r a n c e . 3 . Add t o Carbopol d i s p e r s i o n w i t h moderate sweeping a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c l e a r gel i s obtained. Formula COO27

SOURCE: BF G o o d r i c h Co.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

292

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Brushing Lotion

wt% A. Ami hope LL TL-10 (PEG-20 Sorbitan Monolaurate) 1,3-Butanediol (Butylene Glycol) Stearyl Alcohol Carbopol 941 (Carbomer 941)*

0.5 0.5 0.5 0.3 10.0

B. Water

68.2

C. Ethanol

20.0

*0.5% wt Carbomer 941 aqueous solution (Neutralized by NaOH)

Procedure: 1. Each chemical cited in (A) is weighed in a glass vessel. Heat it to 60-70C and stir until the solution is homogeneous. 2. Add a previously warmed water (B) (60-70C) to the former prepared solution and cool it to room temperature with sti rri ng. 3. Add 20.Og ethanol (C) to the cooled solution with s t i r r i n g . Note: This hair brushing lotion has a good antistatic effect and gives good combability. Ami hope LL decreased the friction between hair and comb or brush remarkably. Usage: Spray the hair before brushing. Hair Brushing Lotion Ami hope LL POE (20) Sorbitan Monolaurate (Polysorbate 20) Ethanol

WJ.%

0.5 0.5 99.0

Procedure: Mix all components at room temperature. Note: This hair brushing lotion is an alcoholic type and has good antistatic effect and smoothness for the hair. Amihope LL acts as hair conditioning agent instead of the cationic surfactant. Usage: Spray the hair before brushing. SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, Inc.: Suggested Formulations

Hair Care Products

293

Hair Conditioner with CAE Ingredients: Phase A : Cetanol A m i t e r LGS-2 ( D i s t e a r e t h - 2 L a u r o y l G l u t a m a t e ) N i k k o l MYS-55 (PEG-55 S t e a r a t e ) Phase B: CAE (PCA E t h y l Cocoyl A r g i n a t e ) A-SM-(Stearamine O x j d e ) Prodew 100 ( S o r b i t o l & Sodium L a c t a t e & P r o l i n e & Sodium PCA & H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ) G1 y c e r i n Methyl paraben Water

3.0

2.0

1.o

1.o

3.0 2.0 10.0 0.2 77.0

Specifications: pH: 5 . 0 V i s : 2500 c p s Procedure: M i x i n g r e d i e n t s phase A and h e a t t o 75-80 d e g r e e s C . M i x i n g r e d i e n t s phase B and h e a t t o 75-80 d e g r e e s C . Add phase A t o phase B and m i x w i t h homomixer (1500 t o 2500 r p m ) . Cool t o 35 d e g r e e s C . T h i s h a i r c o n d i t i o n e r has good a n t i s t a t i c and c o n d i t i o n i n g effects

.

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA I n c . : F o r m u l a No. 1 CR-56-11 Setting Lotion Normal hold for all climatic zones, easy to comb and wash Out. % by W e i g h t 2.00 0.35 30.00 67.65 q.s.

Inqredients: Ultrahold Strong AMP-95 Ethanol, abs. Water, d i s t i l l e d Perfume o i l

Procedure: P l a c e e t h a n o l , AMP-95, w a t e r and p e r f u m e o i l i n t h e m i x ng v e s s e l , add U l t r a h o l d S t r o n g , s t i r u n t i l d i s s o l v e d , t h e n f 11 i n t o contai ners.

SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y : Formu a t i o n PF-0335

suggested

b y EASF

294

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Conditioner with Guar Derivative

%w/w Lanette 0 12.0 Cetiol V 1.o I 1 Dehyquart A 1.0 Water 55.0 I 1 1 Cosmedia Guar C261 1.o Water 30.0 P r e p a r a t i o n : Cosmedia Guar C261 i s s p r i n k l e d i n t o t h e h o t w a t e r f r o m phase I11 ( 7 0 C ) , s t i r r e d , l e f t t o s w e l l , and c o o l e d t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Phase I i s m e l t e d a t 70-80C and an e m u l s i o n i s p r e p a r e d i n t h e normal way w i t h t h e h o t w a t e r phase 11. Phase 111 i s added t o t h e c o o l e d e m u l s i o n and homogenized. N o t e : Tube f i l l i n g . F o r m u l a No. VA21-13 I

Hair Conditioner with Guar Derivative

%w/w Emulgade F s p e c i a l Cetiol V I 1 Water 111 Cosmedia Guar C261 Water P r e p a r a t i o n : See f o r m u l a VA21-13 N o t e : Tube f i l l i n g F o r m u l a No. VA21-15

15.0

I

2.0 41.8 1.o 40.2 above.

Vitamin Lecithin Hair Conditioner, Pearly

%w/w Emulgade F s p e c i a l Eutanol G Comperl an 100 Tocopherol o i 1 Wheatgerm o i l I 1 Dehyquart A Water F o r m u l a No. VA21-16

15.0 4.0 1.5 1.o 0.5 4.0 74.0

I

Hair Conditioner with Jojoba

Oil Substitute

%w/w I

Emulgade F s p e c i a l Sol u v i t R i c h t e r C e t i o l 5600 I 1 Dehyquart A Water F o r m u l a No. VA21-17

SOURCE : Hen k e l KGaA: C o m e t ic Model Formul ae

8.0 2.0 3.0 3.0 84.0

Hair Care Products

295

Hair Conditioning Gel I n q r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: Part A: D e i o n i z e d Water H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l ose Hydroxypropyl Guar/Hydoxypropyltrimonium C i t r i c Acid Methylparaben

% by Weight

Chloride

Part B: Panthenol Sodium PCA/Ajidew N-50 P a r t i a l l y Deacetylated C h i t i n (1% Solution)/Marine-Dew P o l y q u a t e r n i urn-1 1 D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea

89.94 0.80 0.40 0.06 0.02

0.30 3.00 3.00 2 .OO 0.30

Procedure: Add p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Heat t o 75 d e g r e e s Centi g r a d e . M i x u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . Cool t o 5 0 d e g r e e s Centi g r a d e . Add p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e g i v e n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 3 5 d e g r e e s Centigrade. Appearance: C l e a r g e l PH: 4.50-5.50 V i s c o s i t y : 7,000-10,000

(RVT #5 @ 1 0 rpm @ 25 d e g r e e s C)

Hair Liquid (Soft Type)

Wt% ( 0 ) P y r o t e r GPI-25 2-Hexyldecyl Alocohol Ethyl Alcohol Methylparaben Perfume

9.0 1.o 40.0 0.1 q.s.

(W) A j i d e w T - 5 0 Water

4.0 45.9

Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e ( 0 ) and (W) s e p a r a t e l y a t room t e m p e r a t u r e t o be clear solutions. 2 . Add (W) t o ( 0 ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 7 . 0 V i s c o s i t y : 6 cps

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

2%

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Cream

Wt% ( 0 ) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) Isopropyl Myri s t a t e S q u a l ane N i k k o l WCB Polyox y ethylene (6300) Monostearate G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e ( S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g Type) Polyoxyethylene (20) C e t y l Ether

38.0 3.0 0.5 0.5 0.1 4.1 2.9

(W) A j i d e w N - 5 0 Water Preservative

3.0 47.9 q.s.

Procedure: 1 . Heat ( 0 ) and (W) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o ( 0 ) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n 3 . F i n i s h s t i r r i n g a t 40C. pH: 7 . 3 Viscosity:

900 c p s Hair Tonic Wt%

( 0 ) P y r o t e r GPI-25 P y r o t e r CPI-40 E t h y l A l c o h o l (95%) L-Menthol Camphor Methylparaben Perfume

2.7 0.3 50.0 0.4 0.05 0.05 q.s

(W) A j i d e w T - 5 0 Water

4.0 42.5

Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e ( 0 ) and (W) s e p a r a t e l y a t room t e m p e r a t u r e t o b e clear solutions. 2 . Add (W) t o ( 0 ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 7 . 5 Viscosity:

5 cps

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, Inc.: S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products

297

Hair Dressing Cream O/W, with Allantoin

%w/w I Eumulgin 05 E u m u l g i n 010 P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous Vase1 ine, w h i t e II A l l a n t o i n Water F o r m u l a No. WF11-05

8.0 8.0 40.0 10.0 0.3 33.7

Hair Dressing Gel, Transparent

%w/w E u m u l g i n B1 E t h y l /is o p r o p y l a l c o h o l II Water Dehyquart C c r y s t . I11 C a r b o p o l 940 I V Triethanolamine Water Formula No. WF11-07

I

5.0 50.0 38.0

0.2 0.8

1 .o 5.0

Hair Dressing Gel

%w/w I

Nasuna 0 * ) Ethyl/isopropyl alcohol I 1 Water I11 C a r b o p o l 940 I V Water Triethanolamine F o r m u l a N o . WFl l -09

4.0 50.0 38.3 0.7 6.0 1. o

Hair Dressing Gel

%w/w 3.0 Nasuna B * ) 20.0 Isopropyl alcohol 70.0 I 1 Water 0.7 Eumulgin L 0.8 I11 C a r b o p o l 940 4.5 I V Water 1.o Triethanolamine F o r m u l a No. WF11-12 N o t e : * ) The Nasuna t y p e s a r e n o t f o r s a l e i n West Germany. V a r i o u s PVP/VA t y p e s on t h e m a r k e t c a n b e r e f e r r e d t o .

I

Hair Dressing Gel, Oily

%w/w I E u m u l g i n 83 13.0 C e t i o l HE 20.0 Eutanol G 5.0 II Water 62.0 P r e p a r a t i o n : M e l t I i n a w a t e r o r g l y c e r i n e b a t h a t a p p r o x . 95C. S t i r I 1 i n t o I a t 95C. Cease s t i r r i n g when t h e m i x t u r e has c o o l e d t o 60C, t o a v o i d a i r p o c k e t s f o r m i n g . F o r m u l a No. WF11-13 SOURCE: Hen k e l KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

298

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Moisturizer

%

Inaredients: Phase A : H20, D e i o n i z e d H e t o x i d e G-26 ( G l y c e r e t h - 2 6 ) D i s o d i um EDTA M e t h y l Paraben

79.03

3.0 0.1 0.15

Phase B : Hetamide MA ( A c e t a m i d e MEA) H e t s o r b L-20 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 20) Hest CSO ( C e t e a r y l O c t a n o a t e ) Hetoxamate SA-100 (PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) Glyceryl Stearate Hest MS ( M y r i s t y l S t e a r a t e ) Cocoa B u t t e r C e t y l A1 coho1 Hetoxol G ( S t e a r y l Alcohol & Ceteareth-20) P r o p y l Paraben Phase C : Kathon CG Specifications: pH: 5 . 0 V i s c o s i t y #4/30:

1 .o 0.2

10.0 0.7 0.7 0.5 0.5 1.5 2.5 0.05

0.07

7500 cps

Procedure: 1 ) I n a s u i t a b l e s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e equipped w i t h a L i g h t n i n ' m i x e r , add Phase A . Heat t o 75C w h i l e m i x i n g . 2 ) I n a s e p a r a t e s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e , add Phase 8 . Heat t o 75C w h i l e m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . 3 ) When b o t h phases r e a c h 75C, add Phase B t o Phase A . M i x u n t i l uniform. 4 ) Cool t o 40C. 5 ) Add Phase C . M i x w e l l . Formula HC93-102 Hair

Pomade

Inaredients: % 25.00 Mineral O i l 10.00 H e t l a n AC ( A c e t u l a t e d L a n o l i n ) Petroleum 50.00 H e s t CSO ( C e t e a r y l O c t a n o a t e ) 2.00 H e s t L-2-0 ( L a u r e t h - 2 O c t a n o a t e ) 7.00 Paraffin 6.00 Procedure: 1 ) I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e , combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat t o 70C, w h i l e m i x i n g u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y m e l t e d and u n i f o r m . Formula HP93-101

SOURCE:

Heterene,

I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t t o n s

Hair Care Products

299

Hair Relaxer Formula 93-0302 % BY W e i n h t

Component: A . Dermalcare N I Mineral O i l Cetyl Alcohol

10.0 10.0 2.0 5.0 63.0

B . Sodium H y d r o x i d e (50%) D e i o n i z e d Water

C.

Preservative,

F r a g r a n c e , Dye

q.s.

Blendinq Procedure: Heat "A" t o 85C, "B" t o 55C. W i t h a g i t a t i o n , add " B " t o " A " . C o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n and c o o l t o 35C, t h e n add " C " . Appearance: % Nonvolatile:

Typical Formulation Properties: W h i t e , Opaque, v i s c o u s cream 20-25 Hair Relaxer Formula 93-0309

Component: Dermal c a r e DV-4232 Mineral O i l Petrolatum Stearyl Alcohol

A.

B . D e i o n i z e d Water Propylene Glycol

C.

Sodium H y d r o x i d e (50%) Preservative, Fragrance, Dye(s)

% By W e i n h t 10.0 10.0 10.0 2.0 62.0 3.0 3.0 q.s.

Blendinq Procedure: Heat " A " and " B " s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C. W i t h a g i t a t i o n , add " B " t o " A " . C o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n u n t i l u n i f o r m and c o o l t o 55C, t h e n add "C" ( w i t h o u t p r e s e r v a t i v e , f r a g r a n c e and d y e ) . C o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n u n t i l u n i f o r m and c o o l t o 35C. Then add c o m p a t i b l e p r e s e r v a t i v e , f r a g r a n c e and d y e . Appearance: % Nonvolatile:

Typical Formulation Properties: W h i t e , opaque, v i s c o u s cream 30-35%

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s :

Formulas

300

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Rinse Emulsion

%w/w 0.3 0.6 99.1

Lanette 0 D e h y q u a r t SP I 1 Water F o r m u l a No. VC21-01 I

Hair Rinse Emulsion

u

14.5 Emulgade F s p e c . I 1 Dehyquart C c r y s t . 0.6 Nasuna 8 3.0 C i t r i c acid 0.5 Isopropanol 81.4 N o t e : When used, t h e c o n c e n t r a t e i s d i l u t e d w i t h w a t e r a t a r a t i o of 1:7! Formula N o . VC21-03

I

Hair Rinse

%w/w 0.6 0.1 0.3 99.0

D e h y q u a r t SP A n t a r a 430 C i t r i c acid Water F o r m u l a No. VC21-05 Hair Rinse, Clear, Fat-Free

%w/w P o l y q u a r t H81 C i t r i c acid Water Formula No. VC51-02

2.0 0.2 97.0 Hair Rinse, Clear, Fat-Free

%w/w D e h y q u a r t LT C i t r i c acid Water F o r m u l a No. VC51-04

0.4 0.5 99.1 Hair Rinse, Fat-Free

%w/w Dehyquart A Eumulgin L Water Formula N o . VC51-07 Hair Rinse Foam, Aerosol-Packed

2.0 0.8 97.2

%w/w D e h y q u a r t SP 0.6 C i t r i c acid 0.5 C e t i o l HE 1. o Water 97.9 F i l l i n g : 92 p a r t s s o l u t i o n / 8 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t 12/114/Foam n o z z l e Formula No. VC71-01 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

Hair Care Products

301

Hair Sculpturing Treatment (Formula 90-0501M) This l i g h t conditioning formula provides a s o f t hold t h a t i s i d e a l l y s u i t e d f o r h a i r m o d e l i n g and s c u l p t u r i n g . U n l i k e most s t y l i n g t r e a t m e n t s t h a t l e a v e t h e h a i r t a c k y and s t i f f , t h i s u n i q u e f o r m u l a d e m o n s t r a t e s s u p e r b s t y l i n g p r o p e r t i e s and l e a v e s t h e h a i r s o f t and manageable. I t a l s o r e d u c e s t a n g l e s and f l y away h a i r caused b y s t a t i c c h a r g e s . Recommended Use D i r e c t i o n s : Shampoo and r i n s e h a i r a s n o r m a l . T h o r o u g h l y massage s c u l p t u r i n g r i n s e i n t o wet h a i r . Do n o t r i n s e o u t . Towel d r y h a i r as n o r m a l . S t y l e and s c u l p t u r e h a i r as d e s i r e d and b l o w d r y . % b v Weiaht M i r a p o l A-15 0.50 J a g u a r HP-60 COS 0.75 M i r a p o l 133 3.50 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 0.50 G1 y c e r i ne 1 .oo C i t r i c Acid Q.S. Fragrance, Dye(s), P r e s e r v a t i v e Q.S. Water 74.15 SD A l c o h o l 40 20.00 61 e n d i na P r o c e d u r e : B l e n d P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l and G1 y c e r i n e in w a t e r . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , d i s p e r s e Jaguar HP-60 COS i n w a t e r b a s e . Heat t o 50C. Once system i s u n i f o r m , b l e n d i n M i r a p o l A-15. A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n pH t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d as needed. S l o w l y b l e n d i n M i r a p o l 133 and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool w i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n t o 30-35C and b l e n d i n c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e . Once s y s t e m i s u n i f o r m , b l e n d i n SD A l c o h o l 40. Typical Formulation Properties: C l e a r t o S l i g h t l y Hazy L i q u i d Appearance @ 25C: V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 1,000-3,000 C P S 3.5-4.5 pH : Flexible Hold Styling Mousse (Formula 90-0102M) T h i s s t y l i n g mousse f o r m u l a p r o v i d e s a s o f t h o l d f o r a l l h a i r t y p e s . I t i n c o r p o r a t e s e x t r a body b u i l d i n g i n g r e d i e n t s which h e l p p r o t e c t t h e h a i r f r o m b l o w d r y i n g and r e p e a t e d s t y l i n g t r e a t m e n t s . T h i s s t y l i n g mousse i s i d e a l l y s u i t e d f o r b o t h a e r o s o l and pump d i s p e n s e r a p p l i c a t i o n s . % b y Weinht M i r a t a i n e BET-0-30 1.50 M i r a t a i ne CBC 1.50 2.00 M i r a p o l 133 F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Q.S. Water 95.00 B l e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n M i r a t a i n e BET-0-30 and M i r a t a i n e CBC and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n M i r a p o l 133 and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , Dye, and P r e s e r v a t i v e

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s 13 S p e c i a l t i e s : F o r m u l a s

302

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formuladons

Hair Setting Cream (Formula 84-0804) % BY Weight Phase 1 : H20 Carbopol 940 (BF G o o d r i c h ) Phase 1 1 : PVP-VA 335 D EA SD-40 A1 coho1

74.3 0.2 5.0

1. o 10.0

Phase 1 1 1 : A1 kamuls GMS 4.0 5.0 D e r m a l c a r e DV-4232 C e t y l A l c o h o l NF 0.5 Blending Procedure: Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and h e a t t o 35-4OC. W i t h r a p i d and smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t Carbopol 940. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . I n s e p a r a t e m i x i ng v e s s e l s , p r e p a r e Phase I 1 and Phase 1 1 1 . Heat Phase I 1 1 t o 75-8OC. S l o w l y b l e n d Phase I 1 i n t o Phase I and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Once system i s u n i f o r m , b l e n d Phase I 1 1 i n t o v e s s e l . Cool t o 35C and package. Permanent Wave (Formula 92-1208) Deionized water M i r a n o l CPM-SF Conc. Ammonium t h i o g l y c o l a t e , 100% Ammonium h y d r o x i d e , 25% Perfume Color Procedure: Add i n o r d e r l i s t e d and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m

% by Weight 82.0 5.0 8.0 5.0 q.s. 9,s.

Cold Perm (Carbonated) (Formula 92-1210) Dei o n i zed w a t e r M i r a n o l C2M-SF Conc. Ammoni um t h i o g l y c o l a t e , 100% Ammonium c a r b o n a t e Ammonium h y d r o x i d e , 25% Perfume Color Procedure: Add i n o r d e r l i s t e d and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc

Surfactants & Specialties:

% by Weight 77.0

5.0 10.0 5.0 3.0 q.s. q.s.

Formulas

Hair Care Products

303

Hairspray S t r o n g h o l d , f o r a l l c l i m a t i c zones, e a s y c o m b a b i l i t y , b r u s h - o u t , good wash-out p r o p e r t i e s .

good

96 b y W e i g h t

Ingredients: L u v i m e r 100 P AMP R e g u l a r L u v i s k o l VA 37 E Ethanol Dimethyl e t h e r Perfume

2.40 0.56 1.20 55.84 40.00 q.s

Procedure: Combine e t h a n o l , AMP and p e r f u m e . Add L u v i m e r 100 P and L u v i s k o l VA 37 E t o t h e s o l u t i o n and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . C l o u d p o i n t : -35C Pressure: 3 . 2 bar D e n s i t y : 0 . 7 6 g/cm 3 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0295 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF Hairspray S t r o n g h o l d , f o r a l l c l i m a t i c zones, b r u s h - o u t , good wash-out p r o p e r t i e s .

easy c o m b a b i l i t y ,

good

% bv W e i g h t

I n g r e d i en t s : L u v i m e r IO0 P AMP R e g u l a r L u v i s k o l VAP 343 E Ethanol Dimethyl e t h e r Perfume

0.60 0.14 4.80 54.46 40.00 q.s.

Procedure: Combine e t h a n o l , AMP and p e r f u m e . Add L u v i m e r 1 0 0 P and L u v i s k o l VAP 343 E t o t h e s o l u t i o n and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . C l o u d p o i n t : -35C Pressure: 3.2 bar D e n s i t y : 0 . 7 7 g/cm 3 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0296 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.:

Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

304

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Spray

% by Weisht 2.00 0.16 0.10 0.05 15.00 52.69 30.00

Ingredients: L u v i s e t CAP AMP R e g u l a r Silicone f l u i d Fragrance Methylene c h l o r i d e Ethanol, anhydrous Propane/butane, 40/60 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0120 A p r i l 1985

f r o m C o s m e t i c s and T o i l e t r i e s , Vol

I

100,

Medium Hold Hair Spray % by Weiaht 2.00 0.16 0.10 30.00 67.74

Ingredients: L u v i s e t CAP AMP R e g u l a r S i l i c o n e 566 F l u i d Propane1 B u t a n e , 40/60 Ethanol, anhydrous

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0121 f r o m C o s m e t i c s and T o i l e t r i e s , V o l 1 0 0 , A p r i l 1985 Firm Holding/High Humidity Hair Spray % by W e i a h t 15.00

I n s r e d ie n t s : Stepanhold E x t r a AMP R e g u l a r Dimethicone Copolyol S u r f a c t a n t SDA-40A A1 coho1 Fragrance

0.36 0.20 04.42 9.5.

Procedure: Charge a l c o h o l t o m i x i ng v e s s e l W i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n , add AMP and m i x w e l l . Add S t e p a n h o l d E x t r a and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Add d i m e t h i c o n e c o p o l y o l and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add d e s i r e d f r a g r a n c e and m i x w e l l . I

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0158

s u g g e s t e d by Stepan Co.

SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y I

Hair Care Products

305

Hairspray S t r o n g h o l d , f o r a l l c l i m a t i c zones, b r u s h - o u t , good wash-out p r o p e r t i e s .

easy c o m b a b i l i t y , good

bv Weiqht

Ingredients: L u v i m e r 100 P AMP R e g u l a r L u v i s k o l VAP 343 E Ethanol Dimethyl e t h e r Perfume

2.40 0.56 1.20 55.84 40.00 q.s,

Procedure: Combine e t h a n o l , AMP and p e r f u m e . Add L u v i m e r 100 P and L u v i s k o l VAP 343 E t o t h e s o l u t i o n and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . C l o u d p o i n t : -35C Pressure: 3.2 bar D e n s i t y : 0 . 7 6 g/cm 3 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0297 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF

Hairspray S t r o n g h o l d , f o r a l l c l i m a t i c zones, b r u s h - o u t , good wash-out p r o p e r t i e s . Ingredients: L u v i m e r 100 P Ultrahold 8 AMP R e g u l a r Ethanol Dimethyl e t h e r Perfume

easy c o m b a b i l i t y ,

good

% bv Weiqht 2.40 0.60 0.62 56.38 40.00 q.s.

Procedure: Combine e t h a n o l , AMP and p e r f u m e . Add L u v i m e r 1 0 0 P and U l t r a h o l d 8 t o t h e s o l u t i o n and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . C l o u d p o i n t : -35C Pressure: 3.2 b a r D e n s i t y : 0 . 7 6 g/cm 3 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0298 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

306

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hairspray S t r o n g h o l d , f o r a l l c l i m a t i c zones, b r u s h - o u t , good wash-out p r o p e r t i e s .

easy c o m b a b i l i t y ,

good

% by Weight

Inaredients: L u v i m e r 100 P Untrahold 8 AMP R e g u l a r Ethanol Dimethyl ether Perfume

0.60 2.40 0.38 56.62 40.00 4.s.

Procedure: Combine e t h a n o l , AMP and p e r f u m e . Add L u v i m e r 8 t o t h e s o l u t i o n and m i x u n t i l c l e a r .

P and U l t r a h o l d

C l o u d p o i n t : -35C Pressure: 3 . 8 bar D e n s i t y : 0 . 7 6 g/cm 3 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0299 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF Hairspray S t r o n g h o l d , f o r a l l c l i m a t i c zones, b r u s h - o u t , good wash-out p r o p e r t i e s .

easy c o m b a b i l i t y ,

Inqredients: L u v i m e r 100 P Ultrahold Strong AMP R e g u l a r Ethanol Dimethyl ether Perfume Procedure: Jd L u v i m e r Combine e t h a n a , AMP and p e r f u m e . ho I d S t r o n g t o t h e s o l u t i o n and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . C l o u d p o i n t : -35C Pressure: 3 . 2 b a r D e n s i t y : 0 . 7 6 g/cm 3

good

% bv W e i g h t

2.40 0.60 0.63 56.37

40,OO 4.s.

00 P and U l t r a -

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0300 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF

SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

307

Hairspray

S t r o n g h o l d , f o r a l l c l i m a t i c zones, easy c o m b a b i l i t y , good b r u s h - o u t , good wash-out p r o p e r t i e s . % b v Wei a h t Inqredients: 0.60 L u v i m e r 100 P 2.40 Ultrahold Strong 0.42 AMP R e g u l a r 56.58 Ethanol 40.00 Dimethyl e t h e r q.s. Perfume Procedure: Combine e t h a n o l , AMP and p e r f u m e . Add L u v i m e r 100 P and U l t r a h o l d S t r o n g t o t h e s o l u t i o n and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . C l o u d p o i n t : -35C Pressure: 3.2 b a r D e n s i t y : 0 . 7 6 g/cm 3 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0301 s u g g e s t e d by BASF Pump Setting Spray (100% VOC) E x t r a s t r o n g h o l d , f o r a l l c l i m a t i c zones, easy c o m b a b i l i t y , good b r u s h - o u t , good wash-out p r o p e r t i e s . Ingredients: % by Weight L u v i m e r 100 P 6.00 AMP R e g u l a r 1.39 Ethanol 92.61 q.s. Perfume Procedure: Combine E t h a n o l , AMP R e g u l a r and p e r f u m e . Add L u v i m e r 100 P t o t h e s o l u t i o n and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0302 f r o m BASF Pump Setting Spray (80% VOC) S t r o n g h o l d , f o r a l l c l i m a t i c zones, easy c o m b a b i l i t y , good b r u s h - o u t , good wash-out p r o p e r t i e s . Innredients: % by Weiqht 6.00 L u v i m e r 100 P AMP-95 1.39 Water 12.61 Ethanol 80.00 Perfume q.s Procedure: Combine E t h a n o l , AMP-95 and p e r f u m e . Add L u v i m e r 100 P t o t h e s o l u t i o n and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0303 f r o m BASF SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

308

Cosmetic and Toiletty Formulations

Hair Spray, Aerosol-Packed

%w/w 5.0 Nasuna B * ) 75.0 E t h y l /is o p r o p y l a1 coho1 20.0 Methylene c h l o r i d e N o t e : F i l l i n g : 40 p a r t s h a i r l a c q u e r 60 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t 1 1 / 1 2 ( 5 0 : 5 0 ) I n a c c o r d a n c e w i t h t h e German c o s m e t i c s l e g i s l a t i o n , t h e m e t h y l e n e c h l o r i d e c o n t e n t must n o t exceed 35%. The p a c k a g i n g must b e a r t h e f o l l o w i n g i n s c r i p t i o n : "Do n o t spray near flames o r glowing o b j e c t s . " F o r m u l a No. WE71-01 Hair Spray, Aerosol-Packed

%w/w

Nasuna B * ) 4.0 E t h y l /is o p r o p y l a l c o h o l 96.0 N o t e : F i l l i n g : 40 p a r t s h a i r l a c q u e r 60 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t 1 1 / 1 2 ( 5 0 : 5 0 ) F o r m u l a No. WE71 -03 N o t e : * ) The Nasuna t y p e s a r e n o t f o r s a l e i n West Germany. V a r i o u s PVP/VA t y p e s on t h e m a r k e t c a n b e r e f e r r e d t o . Hair Dressing Cream O/W Eumulgin Eumulgin Paraffin I 1 Water F o r m u l a No. I

6.0

05 010 oil

6.0 60.0 28.0

WF11-01 Hair Dressing Cream W/O

%w/w I Dehymuls F Paraffin o i l Vase1 i n e , w h i t e Cetiol V I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water F o r m u l a No. WF11-03 Hair Dressing Cream O/W I E u m u l g i n B1

C u t i n a MD P a r a f f i n o i l , low viscous I 1 Water F o r m u l a No. WF11-04

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

9.0 12.0 15.0 10.0 5.0 0.3 48.7

%w/w 5.0 15.0 20.0 60.0

Hair Care Products

309

High Solids Hair Spray-80% VOC Ingredients: OAC-2 ( L o v o c r y l - 4 7 ) AMP-95 T r i e t h y l c i t r a t e (CitroFlex-2) Lauramide DEA (Monamid 716) G1 y c e r i n dl-Panthenol Deionized water Anhydrous e t h a n o l SDA-40 n-Butane DM E Fragrance, p r e s e r v a t i v e

I by Weight 8.00 1.43 0.20 0.15 0.10 0.10 10.02 50.00 12.00 18.00 q.s.

Recommended V a l v e S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : P r e c i s i o n V a l v e C o r p . , 0 . 0 1 6 i n stem, 0.016 i n body, no v a p o r t a p , 0 . 1 2 2 i n d i p t u b e ; a c t u a t o r : 0.016 i n MB concave Delta. F o r m u l a PF-0277 f r o m C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s ,

November, 1993.

High Solids Hair Spray Innovative 80% Equivalent Ingredients: OAC-2 ( L o v o c r y l - 4 7 ) AMP-95 Laurami de DEA (Monami d 71 6 ) Glycerin d l -Pantheno1 Deionized water Anhydrous e t h a n o l SDA-40

9s b y W e i g h t 10.00 1.79 0.10 0.10 0.05 32.96 22.00 33.00 q.s

DM E

Fragrance, p r e s e r v a t i v e Recommended V a l v e S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : S e a q u i s t NS-34, 0.013 i n stem, t a p , 0.040 i n d i p t u b e ; a c t u a t o r ; Misty.

c a p i l l a r y body, 0 . 0 1 3 i n vapor E x c e l 1 200 M i s t y 0 . 0 1 6 i n

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0278 f r o m C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s ,

November, 1993

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

310

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Instant Hair Conditioner, Clear

%w/w Isopropanol C e t i o l HE Dehyquart C c r y s t . Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Note: Low v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. VB51-01

70.0 20.0 5.0 5.0

Instant Hair Conditioner, Fat-Free, Clear

%w/w Dehyquart A Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 V i s c o n t r a n HEC 30 000 PR 2% i n w a t e r Isopropanol Water

4.0 10.0 60.0 5.0 21 . o

Note: High viscous F o r m u l a No. VB51-03 Hair Conditioning Rinse, Clear

% a I

E u m u l g i n B2 Comperl an COD Dehyquart A P o l y q u a r t H81

2.2 3.7 1.5 2.0

I 1 C i t r i c acid

0.3 90.3

Water

Note: High viscous P r e p a r a t i o n : M e l t phase I a t a p p r o x . 65C and s t i r i n phase I 1 a l s o h e a t e d t o 65C. S t i r u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 40C. F o r m u l a No. VB51-05 Hair Conditioning Rinse, Clear

e E u m u l g i n 62 2.2 Comperl an COD 3.7 1.5 Dehyquart A I1 C i t r i c acid 0.3 Water 92.3 Note: High viscous P r e p a r a t i o n : M e l t phase I a t a p p r o x . 65C and s t i r i n phase I 1 a l s o h e a t e d t o 65C. S t i r u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 40C. F o r m u l a No. VB51-06 I

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

Hair Care Products

311

Instant Hair Conditioner With Jojoba Oil Substitute

%w/w

Emulgade A Comperl an 100 C e t i o l 5600 I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Dehyquart A Water Formula No. VB21-24 I

3.5 1.5 1.o 5.0 4.0 85.0

Conditioning Rinse

%w/w I Emulgade I 1 Perfume

K

4.0 0.1 0.1 95.8

C i t r i c a c i d , 50% s o l u t i o n Water P r e p a r a t i o n : S p r i n k l e Emulgade K i n t o t h e h o t w a t e r phase (85-9OC) s t i r r i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y . Perfume and p r e s e r v e when under 40C. F u l l e m u l s i f i c a t i o n o c c u r s a t between 30-4OC. Formula No. VB21-26 Conditioning Rinse with Jojoba Oil Substitute

%w/w Emulgade K 5.0 C e t i o l 5600 1.5 0.1 Perfume C i t r i c a c i d 50% s o l u t i o n 0.1 93.3 I 1 1 Water P r e p a r a t i o n : S p r i n k l e Emulgade K i n t o t h e h o t w a t e r phase (85-9OC) s t i r r i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y . When t h e m i x t u r e s t a r t s t o e m u l s i f y , i m m e d i a t e l y add C e t i o l 5 6 0 0 . Perfume and p r e s e r v e when under 40C. F u l l e m u l s i f i c a t i o n o c c u r s a t between 30 and 40C. Formula N o . V B 2 1 - 2 7 I I1

Conditioning Rinse with Protein Emulgade K 5.0 Hydagen P 1.o 92 2 Water 1.5 111 E u t a n o l G 0.1 Perfume C i t r i c a c i d 50% 0.2 P r e p a r a t i o n : Make a p a s t e w i t h Hydagen P and p a r t o f t h e h o t w a t e r ( 6 0 C ) . S t i r Emulgade K i n t o t h e h o t w a t e r phase (85-9OC). Add t h e Hydagen P / w a t e r m i x t u r e . I m m e d i a t e l y s t i r i n E u t a n o l G . S t i r u n t i l c o o l e d t o 30-4OC. Perfume when under 40C. Formula N o . VB21-28 I I1

I

SOURCE: Henkel K G a A : Cosmetic Model Formulae

312

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Intensive Hair Conditioner Foam, Aerosol-Packed

%w/w I C u t i n a AGS Lanette 0

E u m u l g i n 010 Cetiol V I 1 Dehyton AB30 D e h y q u a r t SP Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB9 C i t r i c acid Water F i l l i n g : 92 p a r t s s o l u t i o n 8 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t 12/114 ( 4 0 : 6 0 ) Foam n o z z l e F o r m u l a VA71-01

3.0 4.0 3.0 2.0 3.0 1.5 8.0 0.5 75.0

Instant Hair Conditioning Cream

96w/w Lanette 0 C e t i o l SN Comperlan KM I 1 Dehyquart A Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 C i t r i c acid Water N o t e : Tube f i l l i n g F o r m u l a No. VB11-01 I

12.0 1 .o 3.0 2.0 5.0 0.5 76.5

Instant Hair Conditioning Cream

%w/w L a n e t t e 16 Comperlan KM I 1 Dehyquart A Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 C i t r i c acid Water 111 Water Note: Squeeze-bottle f i l l i n g F o r m u l a No. VB11-02 I

2.5 5.0 2.0 5.0 1.o 74.5 10.0

Instant Hair Conditioning Cream

%w/w Lanette 0 C e t i o l SN Comperlan KD I 1 D e h y q u a r t SP Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 C i t r i c acid Water N o t e : Tube f i l l i n g F o r m u l a No. V B l l - 0 3 I

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

12.0 1. o

3.0 1.5 5.0 0.5 77.0

Hair Care Products

313

Instant Hair Conditioner Foam, Aerosol-Packed

%w/w I

L a n e t t e 16 Dehyquart A I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 C i t r i c acid Water Note: F i l l i n g : 92 p a r t s s o l u t i o n 8 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t 12/114 ( 4 0 : 6 0 ) Foam n o z z l e F o r m u l a No. VB71-01

3.0 2.0 5.0 1.o 89.0

Instant Hair Conditioner Foam, Aerosol-Packed

s/ow/w Emulgade F s p e c . Cetiol V I 1 D e h y q u a r t LT Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 C i t r i c acid Water N o t e : F i l l i n g : 92 p a r t s s o l u t i o n 8 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t 12/114 ( 4 0 : 6 0 ) Foam n o z z l e Formula No. V871-03

I

3.5

1

.o

1.5 5.0 1. o 88.0

Protein Conditioning Rinse, Aerosol-Packed

%w/w 2.0 Emulgade F s p e c i a l 1.o E m u l g i n 82 8.0 Eutanol G 8.0 I 1 Dehyquart A 0.5 Hydagen P 30.0 Water 0.5 I 1 1 Cosmedia Guar C261 50.0 Water 0-8OC. Hydagen P i s P r e p a r a t i o n : Phase I i s m e l t e d a t a p p r o x . d i s s o l v e d i n D e h y q u a r t A , h e a t e d t o a p p r o x 60C, u n t i l homogeneous. The h o t w a t e r (70-8OC) i s added. The aqueous phase I 1 i s added t o phase I . P e r f u m i n g and p r e s e r v i n g a r e c a r r i e d o u t a t under 40C. Cosmedia Guar C261 i s s p r i n k ed i n t o t h e h o t w a t e r (70-80C), s t i r r i n g s t r o n g l y . The s w o l l e n m x t u r e i s added when t h e e m u l s i o n has c o o l e d and homoaenized b v s t i r r i n g . The pH i s adjusted t o approx. 4 w i t h phosphoric a c i d . N o t e : F i l l i n g : 89 p a r t s l i q u i d 11 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t , p r o p a n e / b u t a n e Foam n o z z l e Formula No. VB71-04

I

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic

Model Formulae

314

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Instant Hair Conditioning Cream

%w/w 8.0

I C u t i n a MD Lanette 0

2.5

Cetiol V I 1 D e h y q u a r t SP Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 C i t r i c acid Water N o t e : Tube f i l l i n g Formula No. VBll-05

5.0

1.5 10.0 0.1 72.9

Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion

I

Emulgade F C e t i o l V o r Eutanol G I 1 C i t r i c acid Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Perfume 1 emon Water A p p l i c a t i o n : 1 t e a s p o o n f u l i n 100 c l w a t e r Formula No. VB21-01

%w/w 3.5 10.0 3.0 3.0

0.2 80.3

Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion

o/ow/W

I

L a n e t t e 16 I1 D e h y q u a r t A C i t r i c acid Water I 1 1 Water

3.0

2.0 1 .o 82.0 12.0

Formula No. VB21-02 Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion with Pearly Gloss L a n e t t e 16 Comperlan KM I1 D e h y q u a r t A C i t r i c acid Water I11 Water

I

Formula No. VB21-03

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

%w/w 2.5 5.0 2.0 1 .o 79.5 10.0

Hair Care Products

315

Intensive Hair Conditioning Cream

%w/w 15.0 85.0

I Emulgade F I I Water F o r m u l a No. VA 11-01 Intensive Hair Conditioning Cream

%w/w Lanette 0 Hydagen P Wool wax a l c o h o l I1 Lanette E Water F o r m u l a No. V A 11-03

12.0 2.0 6.0 3.0 77.0

I

Intensive Hair Conditioning Cream, Herbal Pack E u m u l g i n 61 Emulgade F s p e c . Wool wax a l c o h o l Eutanol G Vase1 i ne, w h i t e I 1 Dehyquart A Hexapl a n t R i c h t e r C i t r i c acid Water N o t e : When used a t a r a i o o f 1 : 1 , water! F o r m u l a No. VA 11-04

1.o

I

15.0 4.0 5.0 2.0

2.0 3.0 0.2 67.8 t h e cream must be d i l u t e d w i t h

Intensive Hair Conditioning Cream, Vitamin Pack

96w/w Emulgade F s p e c . 12.0 4.0 Wool wax a l c o h o l Eutanol G 5.0 Vaseline, white 2.0 I 1 Dehyquart A 8.0 Sol u v i t R i c h t e r 3.0 C i t r i c acid 0.2 Water 65.8 N o t e : When used a t a r a t i o o f 1 : 1 , t h e cream must b e d i l u t e d w i t h water! F o r m u l a No. VA11-05

I

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA:

Cosmetic

Model F o r m u l a e

316

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion

I

L a n e t t e 16 Dehyquart A Hydagen P 111 C i t r i c a c i d 10% s o l u t i o n Water

I1

3.0 4.0 2.0 1.2 89.8

P r e p a r a t i o n : L a n e t t e 16 i s m e l t e d a t 75-8OC. Hydagen P i s d i s s o l v e d i n D e h y q u a r t w h i c h i s s l i g h t l y warmed. Then t h e c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n and t h e w a t e r (75-80C) a r e added and m i x e d w i t h phase I w h i l e s t i r r i n g . S t i r u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y c o o l e d . F o r m u l a No. VB21-04 Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion

W f I 11

Lanette 0 C i t r i c acid Dehyquart C c r y s t . Water

4.0

1.o 0.6 94.4

F o r m u l a No, VB21-05 Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion

o/ow/w Emulgade 1000 N I Eutanol G I 1 Dehyquart SP Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 C i t r i c acid Water

I

4.0 2.0 1.5 5.0 0.5 87.0

Note: Squeeze-bottle f i l l i n g Formula No. VB21-07 Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion

%w/W I Emulgade 1000 N I Eutanol G I 1 D e h y q u a r t LT C i t r i c acid

Water F o r m u l a No. VB21-09 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

4.0 2.0 I .5 0.5 92.0

Hair Care Products

31 7

Intensive Hair Conditioning Emulsion

%w/w I Emulaade F s o e c . Cet i01 I 1 D e h y q u a r t SP Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 C i t r i c acid V i s c o n t r a n MHPC 6000-0.8% s o l u t i o n Water N o t e : Tube f i l l i n g Formula No. VA21-08

10.0

2.0 1.5 10.0

0.5 20.0 56.0

Intensive Hair Conditioning Emulsion I

Lanette 0 E u m u l g i n 82 Comperlan 100 Cetiol B I 1 D e h y q u a r t LT Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 C i t r i c acid Water Formula No. VA21-10

%w/w 8.0 2.0 1.o 2.0 1.5 10.0

0.5 75.0

Intensive Hair Conditioning Emulsion C u t i n a AGS Eutanol G Lanette 0 Comperlan KD D e h y q u a r t LT I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 C i t r i c acid V i s c o n t r a n MHPC 6000-0.8% S o l u t i o n Water Formula No. VA21-11 I

%w/w 12.0 2.0 3.0

2.0 1.5 10.0 0.1 20.0 49.4

Intensive Hair Conditioning Emulsion

I

Emulgade F s p e c i a l Comperlan KM Eutanol G I 1 D e h y q u a r t LDB Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 C i t r i c acid Water Formula No. VA21-12 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

%w/w 15.0 5.0 2.0 2.0 10.0

0.5 65.5

318

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Intensive Hair Conditioning Emulsion

%w/w I

Lanette 0 Eutanol G Vase1 i ne, w h i t e

15.0 3.0 3.0

I1

Lanette E Water C i t r i c acid

3.0 73.8 0.2

I11 Cholesterin

2.0

F o r m u l a N o . V A 21-03 Intensive Hair Conditioning Emulsion for Dry Hair

46w/W I

E u m u l g i n B1 Emulgade F spec. Eutanol G Wool wax a l c o h o l Vaseline, white

I 1 Hydagen P Dehyquart A Hexaplant R i c h t e r C i t r i c a c i d 10% s o l u t i o n Water

I

.o

15.0 5.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 3.0 1.3 66.7

P r e p a r a t i o n : Phase I i s m e l t e d a t 75-8OC. Hydagen P i s d i s s o l v e d i n D e h y q u a r t A w h i c h i s warmed s l i g h t l y . The h o t w a t e r ( a p p r o x . 80C) and t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase I 1 a r e added and s t i r r e d i n t o phase I . S t i r r i n g c o n t i p u e s u n t i l t h e m i x t u r e i s cold F o r m u l a N o . VA21-04

.

Intensive Hair Conditioning Emulsion

%w/w I

Cutina MD Cetiol V Lanette 0 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9

I1 C i t r i c acid V i s c o n t r a n MHPC 6000 0 . 8 % s o l u t i o n Dehyquart A Water F o r m u l a N o . VA21-05

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

8.0 2.0 2.0 10.0 0.1 20.0 2.0 55.9

Hair Care Products

319

Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion, Clouding

%w/w

Comperlan KM 1 .o D e h y q u a r t LT 2.0 I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB9 3.0 C i t r i c acid 0.3 Water 93.7 N o t e : When t h i s h a i r c o n d i t i o n e r i s shaken, p e a r l y g l o s s c l o u d i n g i s p r o d u c e d (suspended m a t e r i a l w h i c h s e t t l e s when l e f t t o stand) Formula No. VB21-10

I

I

Instant Hair Conditioning Emulsion

%w/w L a n e t t e 16 Comperlan LP I 1 Dehyquart A Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 C i t r i c acid Water F o r m u l a No. VB21-12

I

Conditioning Rinse with Guar Derivative

2.0 4.0 4.0

5.0 1.0 84.0

%w/w

Emulgade 1000 N I 4.0 Dehyquart A 4.0 Water 51 . 7 1 1 1 Cosmedia Guar C261 0.3 Water 40.0 N o t e : Cosmedia Guar C261 i s s p r i n k l e d i n t o t h e h o t w a t e r f r o m phase I 1 1 (70C), s t i r r e d , l e f t t o s w e l l , and c o o l e d t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Phase I i s m e l t e d a t 70-BOC and an e m u l s i o n i s p r e p a r e d i n t h e normal way w i t h t h e h o t w a t e r phase 1 1 . Phase I 1 1 i s added t o t h e c o o l e d e m u l s i o n and homogenized. Squeeze b o t t l e f i l l i n g . Formula No. VB21-14

I I1

Conditioning Rinse with Guar Derivative

I Emulgade 1000 N I I 1 Water I 1 1 Cosmedia Guar C261 Water

%w/w 4.0 44.5 1.5 50.0

N o t e : Cosmedia Guar C261 i s s p r i n k l e d i n t o t h e h o t w a t e r f r o m phase I 1 1 (70C), s t i r r e d , l e f t t o s w e l l , and c o o l e d t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Phase I i s m e l t e d a t 70-8OC and an e m u l s i o n i s p r e p a r e d i n t h e normal way w i t h t h e h o t w a t e r phase 1 1 . Phase I 1 1 i s added i n t h e normal way w i t h t h e h o t w a t e r phase 1 1 . Phase I 1 1 i s added t o t h e c o o l e d e m u l s i o n and homogenized. Squeeze b o t t l e f i l l i n g . Formula No. VB21-16 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

320

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Keratin Creme Dry Hair Dressing

%w/w A.

D e i o n i z e d Water Carbopol 940-2% Aq. S o l ' n . (Carbomer 940) K e r a - T e i n 1000 SD ( H y d r o l y z e d K e r a t i n )

B. P e t r o l a t u m Tween 60 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 6 0 ) A r l a c e l 60 ( S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e ) Olive O i l Cetyl Alcohol Isopropyl Palmitate Jojoba O i l Castor O i l Proto-Lan B*

- 99% Preservatives

C . Triethanolamine Fragrance, *CTFA:

42.70

40.00 1-00

5.00 1.50 1.50 2.00 1.oo 2.00 0.10 1 .oo 1 .oo 1.20 q.s

L e c i t h i n ( a n d ) B u t y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Cocoyl H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ( a n d ) O l e o y l S a r c o s i n e ( a n d ) Sesame O i l ( a n d ) Lanol i n Alcohol I

Procedure: Heat Phases A & B s e p a r a t e l y t o 8OC. Add Phase B t o A a t 8 O C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . M i x u n t i l smooth. Add Phase C c a r e f u l l y t o avoid aeration. P r o p e r t i es : A l e a v e - i n creme h a i r d r e s s i n g w h i c h c o n d i t i o n s , r e d u c e s s p l i t ends and d r y n e s s . P r o t o - L a n 8 c o n t a i n s p r o t e i n s , e s s e n t i a l f a t t y a c i d s and p h o s p h o l i p i d s w h i c h r e p l e n i s h and r e j u v e n a t e o v e r w o r k e d and s t r e s s e d h a i r . K e r a - T e i n 1000 SD moi s t u r i zes, p r o t e c t s and s t r e n g t h e n s t h e h a i r . Leaves a n a t u r a l s h i n e and smooth f i n i s h .

Uses: F o r wet o r d r y h a i r - - M a s s a g e a s m a l l amount i n t o t h e h a i r and e s p e c i a l l y i n t o t h e ends t o i m p r o v e n a t u r a l s h i n e , s t y l i n g and s o f t n e s s .

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . :

F o r m u l a t i o n #HC-511

Hair Care Products

321

Keratin Infused Hair Treatment

%w/w A.

0.10 0.20 0.20 0.50 2.00

Panthenol M e t h y l Paraben Fragrance P o l y s o r b a t e 80 SD A l c o h o l 40A

0 . D e i o n i z e d Water

Dowanol DPM (PPG-2 M e t h y l E t h e r ) G a f q u a t 755N ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 1 ) K e r a - T e i n 1000 AS ( E t h y l E s t e r o f H y d r o l y z e d K e r a t i n ) Quat-Pro S 30 ( S t e a r y l t r i m o n i u m H y d r o x y e t h y l Hydrolyzed Collagen) Quaternium-15 A m e r s i l DMC-357 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l )

C.

Dow C o r n i n g 929 E m u l s i o n (Amodimethicone and T a l l o w t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e and N o n o x y n o l - 1 0 )

87.30 1 .oo 1.oo 3.00

1 .oo 0.20 0.50

3.00

Procedure: Pre-mix Phase A u n t i l c l e a r . Add w a t e r f r o m Phase B t o Phase A . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e (6) i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h m i x i n g . M i x t u r e s h o u l d b e c l e a r a t t h i s s t a g e . Add Phase C ( m i x t u r e becomes m i 1ky)

.

Properties: A l e a v e - i n c o n d i t i o n e r / d e t a n g l e r f o r a d d i n g body and s h i n e t o t h e h a i r . Makes f i n e , l i m p h a i r f e e l t h i c k e r , more manageable. The Quat-Pro S 30 adds body and smoothness due t o i t s h i g h m o l e c u l a r w e i g h t . K e r a - T e i n 1000 AS i s a c a t i o n i c , k e r a t i n d e r i v a t i v e w h i c h adds s h i n e and c o m b a b i l i t y t o t h i s p r o d u c t .

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : F o r m u l a #HC-510 Extra Rich Conditioner Mackine 601 Cetyl Alcohol Mac kp r o WLW Phosphoric Acid Sodium C h l o r i d e M a c k s t a t DM Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e q s t o Procedure: 1 . Add f i r s t f i v e components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 70C 2 . W i t h s t i r r i n g , c o o l t o 5OC. 3 . Add dye, M a c k s t a t DM and f r a g r a n c e . 4 . C o o l and f i 1 1 ,

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

W h t ,% 2.5 1.%

2.0 1.6 0.3 q.s. 100.0

322

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Light Holding/Body Building Hair Spray I n a r e d ie n t s : Stepanhold E x t r a AMP R e g u l a r Dimethicone Copolyol Resin M o d i f i e r Panthenol PPG-IO M e t h y l G l u c o s e E t h e r SDA-40A A1 coho1 Fragrance

% by Weight 11 - 8 8

0.30 0.15 0.20 0.10 87.37 q.s.

Procedure: Charge a l c o h o l t o m i x i ng v e s s e l . W i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n , add AMP and m i x w e l l . Add S t e p a n h o l d E x t r a and m i x u n t i 1 c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Add d i m e t h i c o n e c o p o l y o l , p a n t h e n o l , and PPG-10 m e t h y l g l u c o s e e t h e r , m i x i n g w e l l a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . Add d e s i r e d f r a g r a n c e and m i x t h o r o u g h l y . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0162 s u g g e s t e d b y S t e p a n Co. Forever Curls Hair Spray Ingredients: C r o v o l A-70 E t h a n o l SDA-40 Amphomer 28-4910 Dei o n i zed Water AMP-95 H y d r o t r i t i c u m QL

"-P_r-We_i g b t 1 .oo

63.50 0.75 33.62 0.13 1.oo

Procedure: D u s t Amphomer i n t o a l c o h o l u n d e r v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n . P r e m i x w a t e r , AMP-95 and C r o v o l A-70. Add a l c o h o l s o l u t i o n t o w a t e r s o l u t i o n w i t h m i x i n g . When c l e a r , m i x i n H y d r o t r i t i c u m Q L . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0169 s u g g e s t e d b y Croda I n c . Conditioning Firm Hold Hair Spray Inaredients: Stepanhold E x t r a AMP-Regular Ammonyx KP Methyl gluceth-20 SDA-40A A1 coho1 Fragrance

% b y Weight

13.75 0.35 0.50 0.25 85.15 q.s

Procedure: Charge a l c o h o l t o v e s s e l . W i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n , add AMPR e g u l a r . M i x w e l l . Add S t e p a n h o l d E x t r a . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Add Ammonyx KP. M i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add m e t h y l g l u c e t h - 2 0 . M i x u n t i 1 c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Add f r a g r a n c e . M i x we1 1 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0178 s u g g e s t e d b y S t e p a n Co.

.

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

323

Liquid Protein Protective Hair Finish

%w/w A.

89.4 0.2 0.2 0.2

D e i o n i z e d Water Methylparaben C e l q u a t L-200 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 4 ) Sodi urn Benzoate

0.4

B. C i t r i c A c i d , g r a n u l a r Quat-Pro S30 ( S t e a r y l t r i m o n i u m H y d r o x y e t h y l H y d r o l y z e d Collagen) Cationic Collagen Polypeptides C a r s o q u a t CT 429 ( C e t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d D o w i c i l 200

1 .o 3.0 0.3

C.

5.0

Isopropyl Alcohol Fragrance

0.2 0.1

Procedure: 1 . M i x and h e a t Phase A t o 160F. M i x u n t 1 d i s s o l v e d . Heat o f f . 2. M i x and c o o l t o 120F. 3. Add Phase 8 . 4. Pre-mix Phase C and add t o t h e r e s t o f t h e b a t c h . Properties : T h i s p r o t e c t i v e s t y l e r u t i l i z e s t h e p r o t e c t i v e and f i l m f o r m i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f p r o t e i n s t o c o a t and s e a l t h e h a i r . Quat-Pro S30 and C a t i o n i c C o l l a g e n P o l y p e p t i d e s a r e c a t i o n i c , enhanced p r o t e i n s w h i c h b u i l d body and add a smooth, n a t u r a l t e x t u r e t o t h e h a i r due t o t h e i r m o i s t u r e b i n d i n g p r o p e r t i e s . The h i g h m o l e c u l a r w e i g h t o f t h e s e s u b s t a n t i v e p r o t e i n s w i l l g e n t l y s e t t h e h a i r . The t w o p o l y m e r i c q u a t s add an easy t o s t y l e combing a b i l i t y .

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : F o r m u l a #HC-508 Wheat Germ Foaming Conditioner Weiqht ,% 10.0

Mackam 35 Mackalene 116 Mackal ene 71 6 M a t r o s o l 250 HHR M a c k s t a t DM Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o

8.0

1.o 0.7

q.s 100.0

Procedure: 1. Completely hydrate N a t r o s o l . 2 . Add f i r s t t h r e e components and h e a t t o 40C. 3 . Blend u n t i l c l e a r . 4 . Add r e m a i n i n g components and c o o l .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

324

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Low Cost 80% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray

Inqredients: Resyn 28-2930 AMP-95 Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40 D e i o n i z e d Water P r o p e l l a n t A-31 P r o p e l 1a n t A-1 08

36 b y Weight

5.00 0.47 65.00 14.53 6.40 8.60

Pressure: 75 p s i C l o u d P o i n t : -12C Spray Rate: 0 . 7 2 grams/second Procedure: D i s s o l v e AMP i n anhydrous e t h a n o l and w a t e r . W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n Resyn 28-2930. When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , f i l t e r and f i 1 . Charge cans w i t h p r o p e l l a n t s . Valve S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : Prec s i o n Valve: Stem: 04-1215 0 . 1 6 Gasket: 05-031 0 Buna Spring: 06-601 0 ss Body : 07-7910 .013” cup32-7300-62 F l a t , ET/B, Dimpled, D i p Tube: 09-2010 0 . 1 2 2 ’ ’ I D Actuator: Concave D e l t a . 0 2 0 ” MB F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0285

FBS

s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co. Superhold Pump Hair Spray

Inaredients:

% by Weight

Dow C o r n i n g Q2-5220 G a n t r e z ES-225 AMP R e g u l a r SD A l c o h o l 40

0.50 10.00 0.20 89.30

Procedure: Weigh o u t t h e a l c o h o l and d i s s o l v e t h e AMP R e g u l a r i n t o i t . S t i r i n t h e r e s i n and t h e Dow C o r n i n g Q2-5220 r e s i n m o d i f i e r . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m and add t h e f r a g r a n c e , i f d e s i r e d . Dow C o r n i n g 193 o r Dow C o r n i n g 190 s u r f a c t a n t can b e s u b s t i t u t e d f o r Dow C o r n i n g 02-5220 r e s i n m o d i f i e r . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0286 s u g g e s t e d b y Dow C o r n i n g

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

325

Maximum Keratin Therapy (For Extremely Damaged Hair) H a i r i s composed o f K e r a t i n p r o t e i n . As h a i r becomes damaged and abused, p r o t e i n i s l o s t . The h a i r becomes weaker, more d i f f i c u l t t o manage and l o s e s i t s g l o s s and l i v e l i n e s s . This f o r m u l a t i o n w i l l r e p l e n i s h p r o t e i n l o s t from t h e h a i r w i t h a s o l u b l e k e r a t i n p r o t e i n . K e r a - T e i n 1000 h a s been made w i t h t h e optimum m o l e c u l a r shape and w e i g h t so a s t o m a x i m i z e i t s c o a t i n g and r e p a i r p r o p e r t i e s . I t w i l l h e l p s e a l e x t r e m e l y damaged h a i r i m p r o v i n g i t s t e x t u r e and s h i n e . 'Maximum K e r a t i n T h e r a p y ' s h o u l d b e a p p l i e d a f t e r shampooing and l e f t on f o r 15-20 m i n u t e s p r i o r t o r i n s i n g . % & A.

D e i o n i z e d Water Methylparaben C e l q u a t H-100 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 4 ) K e r a - T e i n 1000 ( H y d r o l y z e d K e r a t i n ) C a t i o n i c Collagen Polypeptides C e t r i moni um C h l o r i d e C e r a p h y l 60 ( Q u a t e r n i u m - 2 2 ) D o w i c i l 200 ( Q u a t e r n i u m - 1 5 )

B. I v a r l a n AWS (PPG-12-PEG-65

85.15 0.20

0.30 10.00

1.oo 0.20 0.30 0.20 2.00 0.50 0.15

Lanolin O i l )

P o l y s o r b a t e 20 Fragrance Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e M e t h y l p a r a b e n and C e l q u a t i n t h e w a t e r . S l i g h t warming may b e n e c e s s a r y t o s o l u b i l i z e t h e Paraben. 2. Add t h e r e s t o f Phase A . M i x . 3 . P r e m i x Phase B and add. M i x . SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . :

F o r m u l a t i o n #HC-503

Clear Leave-On Hair Conditioner Wei a h t ,% Mackal ene 426 N a t r o s o l 250 HHR M a c k s t a t DM D e i o n i z e d Water, Dye,

8.0

F r a g r a n c e qs t o

Procedure: 1 . Completely disperse Natrosol i n water. 2 . Add Mackalene 426 and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 3 . Heat t o 40C and add r e m a i n i n g components.

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

1.o 4.s. 100.0

326

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Mink Anti-Dandruff Hair Groom A v e r y e f f e c t i v e h a i r groom f o r c o n t r o l l i n g d a n d r u f f . H o l d s h a i r i n p l a c e , p r o v i d e s t h i c k n e s s t o t h e h a i r s h a f t and p r o d u c e s a rich luster.

Wt.% A.

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e , p u r e ( C e r a s y n t SD, Van Oyk) 1.0 2.5 S t e a r i c A c i d XXX (Emersol 132, Emery) L a n o l i n F a t t y A c i d s ( A m e r l a t e LFA, A m e r c h o l ) 0.5 3.5 C e t y l P a l m i t a t e (Standamul 1616, H e n k e l ) 12.0 M i n e r a l O i l ( C a r n a t i o n , Sonneborn) M i n k O i l (Heavy F r a c t i o n , Emulan) 10.0 50.0 B . Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% 0.6 S o r b i t o l , 70% ( S o r b o , I C I ) 7.5 C . Z i n c P y r i t h i o n e , 48% (Omadine, O l i n ) 0.5 10.7 Water D . Propy lene G l y c o l (and) O i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) M e t h y l Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben 1.o (Germaben 1 1 , S u t t o n ) 0.2 Perfume Procedure: 1 . M e l t Phase A . H o l d a t 75C. 2 . Heat Phase B t o 75C, t h e n add t o Phase A v i a h i g h speed p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n . S t i r c o o l t o 45C. 3 . Add Phase C and D a t 45C.

SOURCE:

Emulan,

Inc.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n Cream Rinse

T h i s v i s c o u s cream r i n s e o f f e r s e x t e n d e d l i f e t o c u r l y , wavy h a i r i n h i g h h u m i d i t y c o n d i t i o n s . L e x o r e z 100 c o n t r i b u t e s t o t h i s a t t r i b u t e and a l s o l e n d s t o t h e h a i r ' s s h i n e .

%w/w A.

D e i o n i z e d Water 84.10 P r e s e r v a t i ves QS 8 . S t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l D i m e t h y l and G l y c o l S t e a r a t e and C e t e t h - 2 ( L e x a t e CRC) 4.70 M i n e r a l O i l N F ( 5 LT) 4.70 G1 y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G1 y c o l / A d i p a t e C r o s s p o l y m e r ( L e x o r e z 100) 4.70 Cetyl Alcohol (Cetal) 0.90 PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e (Kessco PEG 6000 D i s t e a r a t e ) 0.90 C. C i t r i c Acid N F QS pH = 4 . 5 Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n " A " and h e a t t o 75C. 2 . Combine s e c t i o n " 8 " and h e a t t o 70C. 3 . I m m e d i a t e l y b e g i n c o o l ing t o a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e . A g i t a t e continuously. 4 . A t 40C a d j u s t pH t o a p p r o x i m a t e l y 5 w i t h phase " C " . SOURCE:

I n o l e x Chemical C o . :

F o r m u l a CD-105

Hair Care Products

327

Moisturizing Styling Spray (Formula 90-0103M) T h i s s p e c i a1 l y f o r m u l a t e d moi s t u r i z i n g s p r a y d e m o n s t r a t e s s u p e r b h o l d i n g p r o p e r t i e s f o r optimum s t y 1 i n g and s c u l p t i n g ease. T h i s f o r m u l a s h o u l d b e a p p l i e d t o t h e h a i r a s a f i n e m i s t w i t h a pump d i s p e n s e r o r a e r o s o l s p r a y . % Bv W e i g h t 15.00 0.50 2.00 Q.S.

SD A l c o h o l 40 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l P o l y c a r e 133 F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

82.50

Blendinn Procedure: Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l . W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d P o l y c a r e 133 w a t e r and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . Add SD A l c o h o l 4 0 and t h e n b l e n d i n f r a g r a n c e , d y e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . CTFA I d e n t i f ic a t i on : Water, SD A1 coho1 4 0 , P o l y m e t h a c r y l amidopropyl Trimonium C h l o r i d e , Propylene G l y c o l , Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye. Hair Conditioner/Rinse (Formula 92-1203) % bv Weight 15.0 2.5

M i r a n o l DM Conc 45% A1 kamul s EGMS C e t y l A l c o h o l NF J a g u a r C13S C i t r i c Acid Fragrance, dyes, p r e s e r v a t i v e s Dei o n i zed Water

2.0 0.3

Q.S. t o pH 4-5 Q.S. 80.5

Procedure: D i s p e r s e J a g u a r C13S t h o r o u g h l y i n w a t e r . A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d t o 4-5 and warm t o 70-75C, t h e n b l e n d i n A l k a m u l s EGMS, M i r a n o l DM and c e t y l a l c o h o l . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , c o o l s y s t e m t o 40-45C and add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , dyes and preservative. Appearance : pH : % Non-Volatile:

Typical Formulation Properties: Opaque/pearlescent,

viscous l i q u i d

5-6 12

CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Water, s t e a r o a m p h o a c e t a t e , g l y c o l s t e a r a t e , c e t y l a l c o h o l , guar hydroxypropyl trimonium c h l o r i d e , fragrance, c i t r i c a c i d , dyes, p r e s e r v a t i v e s .

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : F o r m u l a s

328

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Non-Aerosol Hair Spray w/Permethyl 101A Insredi ents: A . SD A l c o h o l 40, 190 p r o o f G a n t r e z ES 225

% by Weight

84.10 7.20 0.20 8.00 0.50

6. AMP R e g u l a r P e r m e t h y l 101A V i g i l a n AWS Fragrance

q.s.

Procedure: M i x G a n t r e z i n t o a l c o h o l w i t h h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n , when s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r , add AMP. S l o w l y add P e r m e t h y l and V i g i l a n . M a i n t a i n c l a r i t y and a d j u s t f r a g r a n c e t o d e s i r e d l e v e l . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0340 s u g g e s t e d b y P r e s p e r s e , I n c . Permethyl Non-Aerosol Hair Spray % by Weiqht

Innredients: A . SDA 40-2-200 G a n t r e z ES-225

83.85 7.20

P e r m e t h y l 102A V i g i l a n AWS

0.20 8.00 0.50

Fragrance

0.25

0 . AMP R e g u l a r

C.

Procedure: M i x A t o g e t h e r u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . S l o w l y add B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x u n t i l c l e a r s o l u t i o n d e v e l o p s . Next add f r a g r a n c e as d e s i r e d . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0341 s u g g e s t e d by P r e s p e r s e I n c . Spritz-A-Style Hair Spray Inqredients: A1 coho1 SD-40 AMP R e g u l a r Gant r e z ES-225 C r o v o l A-70 C r o t e i n ADW Dei o n i zed Water

% by W e i s h t

78.19 0.45 9.00 1 .oo 2.00 9.36

Procedure: Add i n g r e d i e n t s t o a l c o h o l i n t h e o r d e r g i v e n w i t h m i x i n g . F i l l .

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0344 s u g g e s t e d by Croda I n c .

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus Product F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

329

Non-Lye Hair Relaxer Cream (Formula 93-0304) % BY W e i q h t 10.0 10.0 7.5

Component: A . D e r m a l c a r e DV-4232 Mineral O i l Petrolatum

55.1 0.2 8.4 8.8

8. D e i o n i z e d Water Chel CD* Ammon i a ( 28%) T h i o g l y c o l ic A c i d

C.

q.s.

P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye

Blendinq Procedure: Heat “ A “ t o 85C, “B“ t o 45C. W i t h a g i t a t i o n , add “ 8 ” t o “ A ” . C o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n u n t i l u n i f o r m and c o o l t o 35C, t h e n add “ C ” . A d j u s t pH t o 9 . 0 w i t h ammonia, as needed. Appearance: % Nonvolatile:

Typical Formulation Properties: Opaque, v i s c o u s cream 30-35

CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Water, M i n e r a l O i l , P e t r o l a t u m , C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) P o l y s o r b a t e 60, T h i o g l y c o l i c A c i d , Ammonia, C h e l a t i n g A g e n t , P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye(s). *Chel CD ( C y c l o h e x a n e D i a m i n e T e t r a a c e t i c A c i d ) Clear Gel Hair Pomade (Formula 92-0228) Step A: Proto-Lan 8 M i r a s i l PTM P r o v o l 50 Lantrol Co-Gel1 A-2 Kaydol M i n e r a l O i l S t e p 8: Co-Gel1 8270 Fragrance

% BY W e i g h t

0.8 0.5 1.0 2.0 14.0 67.4 14.0 0.3

B1 e n d i ng P r o c e d u r e : Heat S t e p A t o 77-8OC w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add S t e p B and c o n t i n u e h e a t i n g t o 90-100C, l e t s t a n d f o r 90 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 75C, t h e n add F r a g r a n c e w i t h s l o w m i x i n g and l e t s t a n d f o r 30 m i n u t e s . Package and c o o l . CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : M i n e r a l O i l , Aluminum I s o s t e a r a t e , L a u r a t e , P a l m i t a t e , I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e and F r a g r a n c e . SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : Formulas

330

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Professional Care Intensive Conditioner

%w/w 6.00 83.20 2.00

Ammonyx 4 ( S t e a r a l k o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) D e i o n i z e d Water C a t i o n i c Collagen Polypeptides K e r a - T e i n 1000 ( H y d r o l y z e d K e r a t i n )

C.

1

.oo

C-Base ( M i n e r a l O i l and PEG-30 L a n o l i n and C e t y l A1 coho1 ) Petrolatum Isopropyl Myri s t a t e S t e a r y l Alcohol-70%

0.50

Fragrance Preservatives

0.30 4,s.

5.00

1

.oo

1.00

Procedure: 1 ) Heat phases A & 0 s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C. 2 ) Add Phase B t o Phase A a t 75C. M i x . 3 ) M i x and c o o l t o 35C. Properties: This i n t e n s i v e c o n d i t i o n i n g treatment u t i l i z e s t h e timeproven s o f t e n i n g b e n e f i t s o f Stearalkonium C h l o r i d e along w i t h t h e m o i s t u r i z a t i o n and body b u i l d i n g b e n e f i t s o f p r o t e i n s . K e r a - T e i n 1000 i s d e r i v e d f r o m h a i r w h i l e C a t i o n i c C o l l a g e n P o l y p e p t i d e i s a c a t i o n i c , h i g h m o l e c u l a r w e i g h t c o l l a g e n . The c o m b i n a t i o n o f t h e s e t w o p r o t e i n s p r o v i d e s an optimum b a l a n c e o f h a i r m o i s t u r i z i n g , s e a l i n g and s t r e n g t h e n i n g . C-Base i s t h e b a s i s f o r t h e e m u l s i f i c a t i o n system. SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . :

F o r m u l a #HC-505 Cream Hair Conditioner

A. Oleyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol M a c k e s t e r EGMS BHA

Wei s h t ,% 10.0 2.5 3.0

0 . Mackalene 316 Paragon I 1 W a t e r , Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o Procedure: 1 . Heat p a r t A t o 70C. 2 . Add Mackalene 316 t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 70C. 3 . Add A and 0 and w i t h c o n t i n u o u s b l e n d i n g c o o l t o 45C. 4 . Add r e m a i n i n g components and c o o l .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

0.1 25.0 q.s.

100.0

Hair Care Products

331

Professional Treatment Conditioner (Formula 6-0907M) M i r a c a r e CT-100 i s a f l a k e d c o n d i t i o n e r c o n c e n t r a t e s p e c i a l l y f o r m u l a t e d t o p r o d u c e h i g h p e r f o r m a n c e h a i r c a r e p r o d u c t s . Based on a u n i q u e c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t , C e t r i m o n i u m Bromide, M i r a c a r e CT-100 r e a d i l y d i s p e r s e s i n 75-8OC w a t e r t o f o r m e l e g a n t creme r i n s e products which g e n t l y c o n d i t i o n t h e h a i r l e a v i n g i t s o f t and manageable. The d i s t i n c t f e e l i m p a r t e d on t h e h a i r by M i r a c a r e CT-100 makes i t a f a v o r i t e o f p r o f e s s i o n a l b e a u t i c i a n s . C e t y l A l c o h o l NF M i r a c a r e CT-100 F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

% by Weiaht 1 .o 4.0

Q.S. 95.0

Blendina Procedure: Warm w a t e r t o 75-8OC. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n M i r a c a r e CT-100 f o l l o w e d by t h e C e t y l A l c o h o l NF. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . Cool t o 40C w i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n and b l e n d i n c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e . Typical Formulation Properties: Appearance A f t e r 24 H r s . : V i s c o u s , Opaque L o t i o n % Non V o l a t i l e s : 4-6 pH (10% A q . ) : 3-5 CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Water, S t e a r y l A l c o h o l , C e t r i m o n i u m Bromide, C e t y l A l c o h o l , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , D y e ( s ) . "Light" Creme Rinse Conditioner (Formula 88-0806) Rhodaquat M2420/99 C e t y l A l c o h o l NF C i t r i c Acid Fragrance, Dye(s), Water

P r e s e r v a t iv e

% by Weiqht 0.80 4.00 0.20 Q.S.

95.00

Blendinq Procedure: D i s s o l v e C i t r i c A c i d i n w a t e r and h e a t t o 70-75C. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n Rhodaquat M242B/99 f o l l o w e d by C e t y l A l c o h o l NF. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , c o o l system t o 40-45C and b l e n d i n c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e . Typical Formulation Properties: Appearance A f t e r 24 H o u r s : V i s c o u s , Opaque L o t i o n 2.2-3.2 pH : V i s c o s i t y A f t e r 24 Hours ( 2 5 C ) : 5,000-8,000 c p s ( N o . 4 @ 10 RPM) CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Water, C e t y l A l c o h o l , C e t r i m o n i u m Bromide, C i t r i c Acid, Fragrance, Preservative, Dye(s).

SOURCE:

Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s 8, S p e c i a l t i e s :

Formulas

332

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Protein & Lanolin Hot

Oil

Treatment

%Jfy D e i o n i z e d Water C o l l a g e n H y d r o l y z a t e Cosmetic N55 ( H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ) Quat-Pro S30 ( S t e a r y l t r i m o n i u m H y d r o x y p r o p y l H y d r o l y z e d Col 1agen) S o l u l a n L575 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) Ammonyx 4 ( S t e a r a l k o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) Fragrance Quaternium-15

40 50 I

3.00 1 .oo 50.00 5.00 0.20 0.30

Procedure: Heat Water and Ammonyx t o 75C. M i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add S o l u l a n and m i x u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . Cool t o 50C. Add CHC N55 and Q u a t - P r o S30. Cool t o 40C, add f r a g r a n c e and Q u a t e r n i u m . P r o d u c t w i l l o p a c i f y as i t c o o l s . P r o p e r t i es : A H o t O i l t r e a t m e n t w h i c h r e v i t a l i z e s h a i r and caused by s t y l i n g , c h e m i c a l t r e a t m e n t s and w e a t h e r T h i s P r o t e i n & L a n o l i n e n r i c h e d f o r m u l a i s h e a t ac c o n d i t i o n and t h e n r i n s e c l e a n . Quat-Pro S i s p a r t a t t r a c t e d t o t h e most damaged a r e a s o f t h e h a i r .

i g h t s damage exposure. iv a t e d t o cularly

Directions: Heat o r o d u c t i n h o t t a p w a t e r . T h i s w i l l c l e a r t . N o t e : P r o d u c t i s opaque and w i l l s e p a r a t e a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . Wet h a i r and massage i n f o r one m i n u t e . R i n s e h a i r w i t h warm w a t e r . Shampoo and d r y h a i r as u s u a l .

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . :

F o r m u l a #HC-801 Pump Type Hair Spray

Resyn 26-1 31 4 Mackpro C o n d i t i o n e r * D e i o n i z e d Water Ethanol, Fragrance qs t o Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e Resyn 26-1314 i n a l c o h o l . 2 . Add r e m a i n i n g components and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . *Based on 100% c o n c e n t r a t i o n .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Weight,% 6.0

0.3 7.6 100.0

Hair Care Products

333

Pump Hair Spray A l c o h o l SD 40-A

Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethyl M e t h a c r y l a t e

80 I O O % 3.50

Copolymer (Amphomer)

A m i nomethyl P r o p a n o l

0.61

P e c o s i l SWP-83

( H y d r o l y z e d Wheat P r o t e i n / D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l Phosphate Copolymer) Phoenamid LD ( L a u r a m i d e DEA) D e i o n i z e d Water Fragrance

0.10 0.10 15.49 0.20

Procedure: S p r i n k l e t h e Amphomer i n t o t h e a l c o h o l u n d e r p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . When t h e Amphomer i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , add t h e remaining items w i t h continuous p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . F o r m u l a 14-63-A Hair Styling Gel 85 * 95% 1.oo

D e i o n i z e d Water Carbomer 940

8

D e i o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

C

Vinylcaprolactam/PVP/D Copolymer

methylaminoethylmethacrylate

7.50

D

S i l i c o n e Quaternium-5

P e c o s i l SMQ-40)

1.50

E

Methylchloroisothiazol t h i azo1 inone

none ( a n d ) M e t h y l i s o -

0.05

3.00 1.00

Procedure: D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n Phase A w a t e r . When a u n i f o r m d i s p e r s i o n i s o b t a i n e d , add Phase B t o Phase 4. S l o w l y sweep i n Phase C, Phase and Phase E u n t i l a u n i f o r m g e l i s o b t a i n e d .

SOURCE:

Phoenix Chemical,

Inc.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

334

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pump Hair Spray Innredients: A l c o h o l SD 40-A Amphomer AMP-95 Pecosi 1 SWP-83 Phoenamid LD Deionized water Fragrance

% by Weight

80.00 3.50 0.61 0.10 0.10 15.49 0-20

Procedure: S p r i n k l e t h e Amphomer i n t o t h e a l c o h o l under p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . When t h e Amphomer i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , add t h e remaining items i n order w i t h continuous p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Formul a t ion PF-0320 Aerosol Spray Normal hold for all climatic zones, easy to comb and wash out. Ingredients: U l t r a h o l d Strong AMP R e g u l a r Ethanol abs. Propane/butane Perfume o i l

% b y Weight 2.00 0.25

47.75 50.00 q.s.

Procedure: P l a c e e t h a n o l , AMP R e g u l a r and perfume o i l i n t h e s t i r r e r v e s s e l , add U l t r a h o l d S t r o n g and s t i r u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . F i l l i n t o contai ners. C l o u d p o i n t : S t i l l c l e a r a t -35C Pressure: 3.6 bar Densi t y : 0.6548 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0327 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

335

Pump Hair Spray Regular Hold Inaredi ents: Advantage V R e s i n AMP-95 SD A l c o h o l 40 D i s t i 11 ed Water P1a s t i c i z e r Fragrance, e t c .

% bv W t 8.00 0.25 76.00 15.75 q.s. Q . S .

Pump Hair Spray Super Hold

96 by W t

Ingredients: Advantage V R e s i n AMP-95 SD A l c o h o l 40 D i s t i l l e d Water P1 a s t i c i z e r Fragrance, e t c .

12.00 0.37 74.00 13.63 q.s. q.s. Pump Hair Spray Maximum Hold

Innredi ents : Advantage V R e s i n AMP-95 SD A l c o h o l 40 D i s t i l l e d Water Plasticizer Fragrance, e t c . F o r m u l a t i o n s PF-0263

% by W t 14.00 0.43 73.00 12.57 9,s. q.s. suggested by I S P Pump Hair Spray Regular Hold % bv W t

Inaredients: Advantage CP R e s i n AMP-95 D i m e t h i c o n e Copolymer E t h a n o l (19OP) Fragrance

8.00 0.12 0.20 91 -68

a.s. Pump Hair Spray Super Hold

Innredients: Advantage CP R e s i n AMP-95 D i m e t h i c o n e Copolymer E t h a n o l (19OP) Fragrance F o r m u l a t i o n s PF-0265 s u g g e s t e d by ISP

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

% by W t 12.00 0.19 0.20 87.61 q.s.

336

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pump Setting Conditioning Mousse A p p l i c a b l e t o wet h a i r , normal h o l d , e f f e c t , f o r a l l c l i m a t i c zones.

l i g h t conditioning

Ineredi ents : % by Weiaht L u v i m e r 100 P 3.00 AMP-95 0.69 Cremophor A 25 0.20 L u v i q u a t Mono CP 0.50 Perfume q.s. P r e s e r v a t iv e 4,s. Water 95.61 Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l homogeneous F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0307 f r o m BASF Setting Lotion A p p l i c a b l e t o w e t h a i r , s t r o n g h o l d , f o r a l l c l i m a t i c zones. Innredients: % by W e i a h t Luvimer 100 P 6.00 AMP-95 1.39 Water 60.00 Ethanol 32.61 Perfume 9,s. Procedure: Combine E t h a n o l , AMP-95 and p e r f u m e . Add L u v i m e r 1 0 0 P t o t h e s o l u t i o n and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0308 f r o m BASF

80% VOC DME Aerosol Hair Spray Inqredients: % by Weiaht Water 6.84 Ethanol 40.00 AMP-95 0.56 Acudyne 255 (41% s o l i d s ) 12.50 D i m e t h y l e t h e r (DME) 40.00 0.10 Dow C o r n i n g 190 F l u i d Procedure: M i x w a t e r , e t h a n o l , AMP-95 and p l a s t i c i z e r . Add p o l y m e r w i t h s t i r r i n g . Mix u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s s l i g h t l y t u r b i d , b u t a c t i v e s a r e d i s p e r s e d . Charge DME. The m i x t u r e i m m e d i a t e l y t u r n s c l e a r . P r o p e r t ies : C l o u d P o i n t : (-22F Vapor P r e s s u r e : 4 2 p s i g @ 70F F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0314 s u g g e s t e d b y Rohm and Haas

SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.:

Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

337

Pump Spray Normal hold for all climatic zones, easy to comb and wash out. % b y Weight

Ingredients: U l t r a h o l d Strong AMP R e g u l a r Ethanol abs. Perfume o i l

3.00 0.60 96.40 q.s

Procedure: P l a c e e t h a n o l , AMP R e g u l a r and perfume o i l i n t h e m i x i n g v e s s e l , add U l t r a h o l d S t r o n g and s t i r u n t i l d i s s o l v e d , t h e n f i l l in t o c o n t a i n e r s . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0332 s u g g e s t e d by BASF

Pump Spray Strong hold for all climatic zones, easy to comb and wash out. Ingredients: U l t r a h o l d Strong AMP-95 Water, d i s t i l l e d Ethanol abs. Perfume o i l

% by W e i q h t 5.00 0.80 10.00

84.20 4.s.

Procedure: P l a c e e t h a n o l , AMP-95, w a t e r and p e r f u m e o i l i n t h e m i x i n g v e s s e l , add U l t r a h o l d S t r o n g and s t i r u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . F i l l i n t o containers. F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0333 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF Setting Foam Firm dense foam for a normal hold. Ingredients: U l t r a h o l d Strong AMP-95 Cremophor A 25 Perfume o i l t Cremophor RH 40 ( 1 : 3 ) Water, d i s t i l l e d Propane/butane

% by Weight

2.00 0.35 0.20 0.40

87.05 10.00

Procedure: P l a c e e t h a n o l , AMP-95, Cremophor A 25 and w a t e r i n t h e s t i r r e r v e s s e l . Add U l t r a h o l d S t r o n g and s t i r u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . F i l l i n t o containers. F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0334 s u g g e s t e d by BASF

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

338

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Setting Conditioning Mousse Alcohol Free Ingredients: Resyn 28-2913 AMP-95 C r o t e i n SPO DC-1932 S u r f a c t a n t Tween 20 Monamid 150 ADD T r i t o n X-100 Dei o n i zed Water Fragrance Preservative P r o p e l 1a n t

% b v Wei a h t 3.50

0.38 0.05 0.10 0.20 0.20

0.30 85.27

q.s.

9,s. 10.00

Procedure: M i x AMP-95 i n w a t e r . Add Resyn 28-2913 s l o w l y w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n . When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e c o n c e n t r a t e . F i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e when u n i f o r m . Charge p r o p e l l a n t . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0177 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Extra-Hold Conditioning Mousse I n s r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: Part A:

% by W e i q h t

Octylacrylamide/acrylates b u t y l a m i n o e t h y l m e t h a c r y l a t e c o p o l y m e r (Amphomer) AMP-95 Amodimethicone ( a n d ) n o n o x y n o l - 1 0 ( a n d ) t a l l o w t r i m o n i u m chloride L i n o l e a m i d o p r o p y l PG dimonium c h l o r i d e p h o s p h a t e (Phosphol ip i d EFA) S D A l c o h o l 3A Water

0.60 10.00 37.35

Part 8: Hydroxyethyl c e l l u l o s e Water

0.30 37.00

Part C: P r o p e l 1a n t

10.00

3.75

0.60

0.40

Procedure: P r e p a r e A and B s e p a r a t e l y . To p r e p a r e B , c a r e f u l l y s p r i n k l e h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t o w a t e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . H e a t may be a p p l i e d t o h e l p s o l u b i l i z a t i o n . B l e n d B i n A, p r e s s u r i z e w i t h n

L.

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0180 s u g g e s t e d b y Mona I n d u s t r i e s

SOURCE: Anpus Chemical C o . : Angus p r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

339

Setting Conditioning Mousse Aqueous-Alcoholic % b y Wei a h t 3.00 0.33 0.10 0.10 0.20 0.20 0.10 0.50 20.00 65.47 q.s. q.s. 10.00

Ingredients : Resyn 28-2913 AMP-95 C r o t e i n SPO DC-1932 S u r f a c t a n t Tween 20 Monamid 150 ADD Glycerine T r i t o n A-100 Anhydrous E t h a n o l Dei o n i zed Water Fragrance Preservative Propellant

Procedure: M i x AMP-95 i n w a t e r . Add Resyn 28-2913 s l o w l y w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n . When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e c o n c e n t r a t e . F i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e when u n i f o r m . Charge p r o p e l l a n t . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0176 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical

Styling Mousse Ingredients: AMP-95 G a n t r e z ES-225 Anhydrous e t h a n o l Dow C o r n i n g 193 Water Perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e P r o p e l l a n t S-46

% by Weight 0.20 5.00 10.00 0.50 74.30 q.s. 10.00

Procedure: Add AMP-95 t o a n h y d r o u s e t h a n o l , t h e n s t r i n G a n t r e z ES-225. I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r add D o w C o r n i n g 193 t o w a t e r . S t r t h e m i x t u r e c o n t a i n i n g G a n t r e z ES-225 i n t o t h e a t e r c o n t a i n ng Dow C o r n i n g 193. Add p e r f u m e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Charge c o n c e n t r a t e (90% by w e i g h t ) i n t o can and p r e s s u r i z e w i t h p r o p e l l a n t A-46 ( 1 0 % by w e i g h t ) . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0175 s u g g e s t e d by I S P

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

340

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Setting Lotion, Clear, In Gel Form

%w/w Nasuna B * ) 4.0 0.7 C a r b o p o l 940 E t h y l / i sopropyl alcohol 50.1 Triethanolamine 1 .o Water 44.2 P r e p a r a t i o n : Nasuna i s d i s s o l v e d i n a l c o h o l , w a t e r is added and C a r b o p o l 940 is t h e n s t i r r e d i n . When C a r b o p o l 940 i s u n i f o r m l y dispersed, t h e s o l u t i o n i s n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h triethanolamine and t h e n o e r f u m e d . F o r m u l a NO WB11-01 Setting Lotion, Clear, In Gel Form

%w/w I

E t h y l / sopropyl alcohol Nasuna B * ) I I Water 1 1 1 Carbop 1 940 I V Water T r i e t h a n o l ami n e F o r m u l a No. W B l l - 0 3

45.0 3.0 45.2

0.8 5.0 1.o

Setting Lotion, Clear, Liquid Nasuna B * ) E t h y l / i sopropyl alcohol Dehyquart A Water F o r m u l a No. WB 51-02

1.5 50.0 0.5 48.0

Setting Lotion, Clear, Liquid

%w/w L u v i s k o l VA 6 4 Dehyquart C c r y s t . Water F o r m u l a No. WB51-04

2.0 0.1 97.9

Conditioning Setting Lotion, Clear

%w/w Nasuna B * ) D e h y q u a r t SP Ethyl/isopropyl alcohol Water F o r m u l a No. WB51-05

2.00 0.25 50.00 47.75

Conditioning Setting Lotion, Clear

%w/w Nasuna B * ) 2.0 2.0 P o l y q u a r t HB1 96.0 Water F o r m u l a N o . WB51-06 N o t e : * ) T h e Nasuna t y p e s a r e n o t f o r s a l e i n West Germany. V a r i o u s PVP/VA t y p e s on t h e m a r k e t c a n b e r e f e r r e d t o . SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

Hair Care Products

Setting Lotion, Foam, Aerosol-Packed

I

Lanette 0 E u m u l g i n 81 Cetiol V I 1 Dehyquart C c r y s t . L u v i s k o l VA 64 Water N o t e : F i l l i n g : 92 p a r t s e m u l s i o n 8 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t 12/114 (40:60) Foam n o z z l e Shake a e r o s o l b e f o r e u s e ! F o r m u l a No. WB71-01 Setting Lotion, Foam, Aerosol-Packed Nasuna B * ) D e h y q u a r t SP C e t i o l HE Water N o t e : F i l l i n g : 92 p a r t s s o l u t i o n 8 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t 12/114 ( 4 0 : 6 0 ) Foam n o z z l e Shake a e r o s o l b e f o r e u s e ! F o r m u l a No. WB71-03

341

?b&& 1.5 1.5

3.0 0.1 4.0 89.9

%w/w 2.0 0.6 1.o 96.4

Setting Lotion, Foam, Aerosol-Packed

%w/w Nasuna B * ) Polyquart H Water N o t e : F i l l i n g : 92 p a r t s p r o d u c t 8 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t 12/114 ( 4 0 : 6 0 ) Foam n o z z l e Shake a e r o s o l b e f o r e u s e ! F o r m u l a No. WB71-04 Setting Lotion, Extra Strong, Aerosol-Packed Nasuna 8 * ) E u m u l g i n R b 40 Comperl an COD Ethanol Water N o t e : F i l l i n g : 92 p a r t s p r o d u c t 8 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t , Frigen 12 V a l v e : V e r t i c a l v a l v e and foam n o z z l e F o r m u l a No. WB 71-06

2.0 2.0 96.0

%w/w 8.0 0.2 0.2 10.0 81 . 6

Note: * ) The Nasuna t y p e s a r e n o t f o r s a l e i n West Germany. V a r i o u s PVP/VA t y p e s on t h e m a r k e t c a n b e r e f e r r e d t o .

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

342

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Setting Mousse A p p l i c a b l e t o wet h a i r , s t r o n g h o l d , f o r a l l c l i m a t i c zones. % b v Weight Inqredients: L u v i m e r 100 P 5.00 AMP-95 1.16 Cremophor A 25 0.20 Perfume q.s. Water 83.64 Preservative q.s. Propane/Butane 10.00 Procedure: Combine a1 1 i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i 1 homogeneous. Formul a t i on PF-0304 f r o m BASF Setting Conditioning Mousse A p p l i c a b l e t o wet h a i r , s t r o n g h o l d , f o r c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t , i m p r o v e s t h e wet c o m b a b i l i t y , g i v e s body t o t h e h a i r , p r e v e n t s " f 1yaway" e f f e c t Inqredients: % by Weight L u v i m e r 100 P 3.00 AMP-95 0.69 L u v i q u a t FC370 2.50 Cremophor A 25 0.20 L u v i q u a t Mono CP 0.50 Perfume/Cremophor RD 40 1 : 3 9,s. P r e s e r v a t ive q.s. Water 83.11 Propane/Butane 10.00 Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0306 f r o m BASF

.

Pump Setting Mousse A p p l i c a b l e t o wet h a i r , normal h o l d , f o r a l l c l i m a t i c zones. Ingredients: % b v Weight L u v i m e r 100 P 3.00 AMP-95 0.69 Perfume q.s. P r e s e r v a t iv e q.s. Water 96.11 Procedure: Combi n e a1 1 i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i 1 homogeneous. F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0305 f r o m BASF

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

343

Shine N' Set--Styling & Moisturizing Spray

%w/w

PVP G a f q u a t 755N ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m 1 1 ) B a r q u a t CT-429 ( C e t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) Quat-Pro E ( T r i e t h o n i u m H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n E t h o s u l f a t e ) K e r a - T e i n 1000 ( H y d r o l y z e d K e r a t i n P r o t e i n ) G1 y c e r i n Propylene Glycol G l y d a n t (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Aqua-Tein S ( A c e t a m i d e MEA ( a n d ) MEA-Hydrolyzed S i l k (and) Propylene G l y c o l ) D e i o n i z e d Water Fragrance Tween 20

1 .oo 3.00 1 .oo 3.00 0.50 10.00 10.00 0.20

0 50 I

69.30 9,s.

1.50

Procedure: D i s s o l v e t h e PVP i n h o t w a t e r . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s , e x c e p t f r a g r a n c e and Tween. P r e - d i s s o l v e t h e f r a g r a n c e i n t h e Tween, and add t o t h e b a t c h b e l o w 40C. P r o p e r t ies : T h i s f o r m u l a c o n t a i n s an e f f e c t i v e c o m b i n a t i o n o f s t y l i n g r e s i n s , combing a i d s and h a i r s o f t e n i n g and s h i n i n g a g e n t s . I n a d d i t i o n , Quat-Pro E s e r v e s t o m o i s t u r i z e and b u i l d body i n t h e h a i r . The c a t i o n i c n a t u r e and f i l m f o r m i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h i s s u b s t a n t i v e p r o t e i n w i l l p r o t e c t t h e h a i r . Kera-Tein 1000 and Aqua-Tein S w i l l c o n d i t i o n and add h i g h l i g h t s . I n a d d i t i o n , Aqua-Tein S w i l l p e n e t r a t e t h e h a i r c u t i c l e t o b r i n g m o i s t u r e t o where i t i s needed m o s t . N o t e : T h i s s y s t e m i s s u i t a b l e f o r d i s p e n s i n g f r o m a M i s t e t t e pump.

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : F o r m u l a #HE-1902

344

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Silk and Soy Styling/Blow Drying Conditioner

%w/w F l e x a n 130 (Sodium P o l y s t r e n e S u l f a t e ) 2.00 Soy-Tei n NL ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy P r o t e i n ) 2.00 S i 1k P r o - T e i n ( H y d r o l y z e d S i 1 k ) 0.50 D e i o n i z e d Water 89.70 G l y d a n t (DMDM H y d a n t i o n ) 0.30 B . M e t h y l Paraben 0.20 d l -Pantheno1 0.10 Isopropyl Alcohol 5.00 Fragrance q.s. Tween 20 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 20) 0.20 Procedure: M i x Phase A and B s e p a r a t e l y . Add Phase B t o Phase A . M i x . Properties: I n t h i s f o r m u l a , n a t u r a l S i l k and Soy p r o t e i n s m o i s t u r i z e and b e a u t i f y t h e h a i r . F l e x a n 130, a h i g h m o l e c u l a r w e i g h t p o l y m e r , i s t h e p r i m a r y s e t t i n g a g e n t . I t s use l e v e l can b e v a r i e d d e p e n d i n g on t h e c o n t r o l d e s i r e d . F i l m s a r e h a r d and m o i s t u r e r e s i s t a n t y e t w a t e r s o l u b l e . E x c e l l e n t wet combing and a n a t u r a l , g l o s s y l o o k a r e an added b e n e f i t o f u s i n g t h i s product. F o r m u l a #HF-1201

A.

Moisturizing Styling Spray

%w/w A.

A l c o h o l SDA-40 PVP/VA E-535 (PVP/VA Copolymer) L a n t r o l AWS 1692 (PPG-12 PEG-65 L a n o l i n O i l ) Fragrance

15.00 4.00 2.00 0.10

D e i o n i z e d Water 61 . 6 0 G1 y c e r i n 10.00 3.00 K e r a - T e i n 1 0 0 0 AS ( E t h y l E s t e r o f H y d r o l y z e d K e r a t i n ) Aqua-Tein C ( C o l l a g e n Amino A c i d s ( a n d ) Acetamide MEA ( a n d ) P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ) 3.00 1.oo Cet r i moni um Chl o r i de 0.30 DMDM H y d a n t o i n Procedure: Pre-mix Phase A and Phase B s e p a r a t e l y . M i x t h e t w o phases together. Properties: T h i s s t y l i n g s p r a y has been d e s i g n e d t o p r o v i d e s o f t n e s s a l o n g w i t h s u f f i c i e n t s t y 1 ing and b o d y i ng c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s t o a c h i e v e t h e "Modern Upswept L o o k " . S h i n e and moi s t u r i z a t i o n a r e p r o v i d e d b y t h e Aqua-Tein C , K e r a - T e i n 1000 AS and g l y c e r i n . I m p r o v e d body and f l e x i b i 1 it y w i 11 a l s o r e s u l t . Aqua-Tein C p e n e t r a t e s t o where i t s needed most, r e s u l t i n g i n an i m p r o v e d condition o f the hair. F o r m u l a #HE-1903 B.

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products

345

Silky Soft Conditioner for Bodied Hair

%w/w 78.00 Dei o n i zed Water C o l l a g e n H y d r o l y z a t e Cosmetic N-55 ( H y d r o l y z e d 6.00 C o l l agen) 4.00 C a r s o q u a t SDO-85 ( S t e a r a l k o n i um C h l o r i d e ) 0-40 Polquaternium-11 0.10 Panthenol 0.20 Methylparaben 0.10 Propylparaben Q u a t - P r o S ( S t e a r y l t r i m o n i u m Hydroxy E t h y l H y d r o l y z e d 0.50 Collagen) 0.50 S i 1k P r o - T e i n ( H y d r o l y z e d S i 1 k )

C.

Laneth-I5 Cetyl Alcohol

2.50 7.00

P r o t o - L a n 8* Fragrance Color

0.50 0.20 q.s.

* ( L e c i t h i n ( a n d ) B u t y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Cocoyl H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ( a n d ) O l e o y l S a r c o s i n e ( a n d ) Sesame O i l ( a n d ) Lanolin Alcohol) Procedure: Heat Phase A and B s e p a r a t e l y t o 80C. Add A t o 8 a t 8OC. M i x and c o o l t o 60C. Add t h e P r o t o - L a n 8 . M i x and c o o l t o 50C. Add t h e f r a g r a n c e . M i x t o i n c o r p o r a t e . P r o p e r t i es : P r o v i d e s maximum c o n d i t i o n i n g f o r damaged, d r y h a i r . C o n t a i n s s u b s t a n t i v e s i l k and c o l l a g e n p r o t e i n s t o smooth and p r o t e c t t h e h a i r s h a f t . P r o t o - L a n 8 adds e s s e n t i a l f a t t y a c i d s p h o s p h o l i p i d s and l i p o - p r o t e i n s t o r e p l e n i s h and r e j u v e n a t e t h e h a i r . I m p r o v e s t e x t u r e , b o d i e s t h e h a i r . Good wet and d r y combing. SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . :

F o r m u l a t i o n #HC-502

Spray Leave-On Conditioner Weiqht,% Mackpro C o n d i t i o n e r * Mackalene 426 Paragon P r e s e r v a t i v e Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e q s t o *Based on 100% c o n c e n t r a t o n . Procedure: 1 . Add components t o w a t e r . 2 . Heat t o 40C and b l e n d u n t 1 c l e a r . SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

0.5 3.0 qs 100.0

346

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Simply Hair

%w/w A.

D e i o n i z e d Water C o l l a g e n H y d r o l y z a t e Cosmetic N55 ( H y d r o l y z e d Col 1agen) G a f q u a t HS-100 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 2 8 )

B. G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE Maywax D ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l

C.

(and) Ceteareth-20)

90.00

3.00 1.oo 1.00 5.00

Fragrance, p r e s e r v a t i v e s

Procedure: Heat Phases A&B t o 8OC. Add B t o A . Add C .

q.s. M i x and c o o l t o 40C.

Properties: A s i m p l e , easy-to-make h a i r c o n d i t i o n e r w i t h good a l l - a r o u n d p r o p e r t i e s . A i d s i n combing. Adds body, m a n a g e a b i l i t y and i m p r o v e s t h e c o n d i t i o n o f t h e h a i r . The c o l l a g e n p r o t e i n can b e s u b s t i t u t e d w i t h o t h e r p r o t e i n s such as k e r a t i n , w h e a t , soy o r q u a t e r n a r i e s d e p e n d i n g on m a r k e t t a r g e t e d .

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : F o r m u l a #HC-509 Styling Mousse P V P / V A E335 SDA 40 A l c o h o l Mackpro Condi t i o n e r *

D e i o n i z e d Water,

F r a g r a n c e , Dye qs t o

Procedure: 1 . Combine components and b l e n d u n t i 1 c l e a r . 2 . P r e s s u r i ze w i t h s u i t a b 1 e p r o p e l 1a n t . *Based on 100% c o n c e n t r a t i o n .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Weight , % 4.5 1.5 1. o

100.0

Hair Care Products

347

Simply Wheat Non-Aerosol Hair Spray Inqredients: P a r t A: A l c o h o l SD-40 Resyn 29-2930 P r o c e t y l 10 (PPG-10 C e t y l E t h e r ) AMP R e g u l a r (Amino M e t h y l P r o p a n o l )

% bv W e i g h t 60.0 3.0 0.8 0.4

P a r t 8: Dei o n i zed Water C r o t e i n ADW (AMP I s o s t e a r o y l H y d r o l y z e d Wheat P r o t e n )

35.6 0.2

Procedure: Add t h e AMP o f P a r t A t o t h e a l c o h o l w i t h m i x i n g When u n i f o r m , add t h e Resyn 28-2930 w i t h m i x i n g . When un f o r m , add P r o c e t y l 1 0 . S e p a r a t e l y m i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B, t h e n add t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0201 s u g g e s t e d b y Croda 80% VOC Aerosol Hairspray Formulation Extra Hold In n r e d i e n t s : G a n t r e z V-225 R e s i n AMP-95 SD A l c o h o l 40 D i s t i 11ed Water P r o p e l 1a n t A-1 7 Dimethyl Ether P r o p e l l a n t Plasticizer Fragrance

% b v Weight

7.00 0.32 46.50 16.18 9.00 21 .oo q.s. q.s.

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0202 s u g g e s t e d b y I n t e r n a t i o n a l S p e c i a l t y P r o d u c t s 80% VOC Aerosol Hairspray Formulation Super Hold Inqredients: G a n t r e z V-425 R e s i n AMP-95 SD A l c o h o l 40 D i s t i l l e d Water P r o p e l 1a n t A-1 7 Dimethyl Ether P r o p e l l a n t Plasticizer Fragrance

% bv W e i g h t

8.00 0.32 46.00 15.68 9.00 21 .oo q.s q.s

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0203 s u g g e s t e d b y I n t e r n a t i o n a l S p e c i a l t y P r o d u c t s

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

348

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Smooth and Shine Keratin Hair Conditioner

%w/w A.

Mineral O i l , Light Isopropyl Palmitate Maywax P ( E m u l s i f y i n g Wax, NF) G l y c e r y l Monostearate, Pure

8. PEG-40 S t e a r a t e Panthenol L i p o - P e p t i d e AME-30 ( A c e t a m i d e MEA and L a u r o y l H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n and G l y c e r i n ) M e t h y l Paraben Ammonyx 4 ( S t e a r a l k o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) D e i o n i z e d Water K e r a - T e i n 1000 SD ( H y d r o l y z e d K e r a t i n )

C . Quaternium-15

5.00 1.00 12.00 0.50

0.30 0.30 3.00 0.20

1.oo

75.60 0.50

0.20 0.20

Fragrance

Procedure: M i x and h e a t Phase A and B s e p a r a t e l y t o 80C. Add B t o A . M i x and c o o l t o 50C. Add Phase C . Properties: A l e a v e - i n h a i r c o n d i t i o n e r which g i v e s t h e h a i r a s i l k - s o f t and l u x u r i o u s f e e l . E x c e l l e n t combing a i d . Massage a s m a l l amount i n t o t h e h a i r and e s p e c i a l l y i n t o damaged ends.

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : F o r m u l a #HC-512 Pearly Lotion Conditioner Mackalene 316 PEG 400 D i s t e a r a t e Sodi urn S u l f a t e P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l M a c k s t a t DM Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o

Wei g h t , 96 7.0 0.5 0.5 2.0 q.s. 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add f i r s t f o u r components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 65C. 2 . W i t h m i l d a g i t a t i o n c o o l t o 50C. and add r e m a i n i n g components. 3. Cool and f i l l .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Hair Care Products

349

Soy Hydrating Hair Therape *%

A.

D e i o n i z e d Water N a t r o s o l 250HR ( H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e )

B. S o y - T e i n NL ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy P r o t e i n ) C a r s o q u a t CT 429 ( C e t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e )

C.

Soy-Quat C (Cocodimonium H y d r o x y p r o p y l H y d r o l y z e d Soy P r o t e i n ) S o l u l a n 98 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 80 and C e t y l A c e t a t e and A c e t y l a t e d Lanol i n Alcohol ) Fragrance Preservative

91.30 0.50

3.00 2.00 1.oo

2.00 0.20 q.s.

Procedure: Heat w a t e r and N a t r o s o l t o 70C. M i x and c o o l u n t i l p r o d u c t i s t h i c k e n e d and c l e a r . Add phase B. M i x t u r e w i l l haze s l i g h t l y . Pre-mix phase C and add t o b a t c h . T h i s w i l l c l e a r t h e p r o d u c t . Properties : A Soy-based h a i r h y d r a t i n g and s o f t e n i n g t h e r a p y f o r b a d l y damaged h a i r . Usage: May b e used b e f o r e o r a f t e r shampooing. I f used b e f o r e shampo o i n g , no need t o r i n s e o u t p r i o r t o l a t h e r i n g h a i r . I f used a f t e r shampooing, r i n s e shampoo o u t . T r e a t h a i r . R i n s e c l e a r . F o r added c o n d i t i o n i n g , S o y Quat C and S o l u l a n 98 amounts may be r a i s e d p r o p o r t i o n a t e l y .

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : Formula #HE-01805 Foaming Conditioner Mackam 35 Mackalene 1 1 6 Mackpro C o n d i t i o n e r * Hydroxyethylcellulose M a c k s t a t DM Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e q s t o

Weight,% 10.0 15.0 2.5 0.7 qs 100.0

Procedure: 1 . T h o r o u g h l y d i s p e r s e t h e H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n w a t e r and h e a t t o 45C. 2 . Add Mackam 35, Mackalene 116 and Mackpro c o n d i t i o n e r . 3 . Blend u n t i l c l e a r . 4 . Add M a c k s t a t DM, f r a g r a n c e and d y e . 5 . Cool and f i l l . *Based on 100% c o n c e n t r a t i o n .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

350

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Soy Infused Hair Treatment

%w/w A.

Panthenol M e t h y l Paraben Fragrance P o l y s o r b a t e 80 SD A l c o h o l 40A Dowanol DPM (PPG-2 M e t h y l E t h e r ) Soy-Quat C (Cocodimonium H y d r o x y p r o p y l H y d r o l y z e d Soy P r o t e i n )

B . D e i o n i z e d Water G a f q u a t 755N ( P o l y q u a t e r n i um-1 1 ) Soy-Tei n NL (Hydro1 yzed Soy P r o t e i n ) D o w i c i l 200 ( Q u a t e r n i u m - 1 5 ) A m e r s i l DMC-357 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l )

C.

Dow C o r n i n g 929 E m u l s i o n (Amodimethicone and T a l l o w t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e and Nonoxynol-10)

0.10 0.20 0.20 0.50 2.00 1-00

0.50 87.80 1.oo 3.00 0.20 0.50

3.00

Procedure: P r e - m i x Phase A . Add w a t e r f r o m Phase B t o Phase A . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e (6) i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h m i x i n g . Add Phase C ( m i x t u r e w i l l be m i l k y . ) P r o p e r t i es : A leave-in conditioner/detangler w i t h vegetable p r o t e i n s f o r a d d i n g body and s h i n e t o t h e h a i r . Makes f i n e , l i m p h a i r f e e l t h i c k e r , more manageable. The S o y - T e i n NL, a s u b s t a n t i v e v e g e t a b l e p r o t e i n , adds body and m a n a g e a b i l i t y . Soy-Quat i s a c a t i o n i c soy d e r i v a t i v e w h i c h adds s h i n e and c o m b a b i l i t y t o t h i s product.

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n #HC-513 Mild Pearl Conditioner Mackal ene 326 PEG 400 D i s t e a r a t e Sodium C h l o r i d e M a c k s t a t DM Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o

Wei s h t ,% 7.0 0.5 0.5 q.s. 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add t h e f i r s t t h r e e components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 65C. 2 . W i t h c o n t i n u o u s s t i r r i n g , c o o l t o 40C. and add dye, M a c k s t a t DM and f r a g r a n c e . 3 . Cool and f i l l .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Hair Care Products

Spray Gel Inaredients: Weight% P a r t A: Carbopol 980 ( 1 ) (1% d i s p e r s i o n ) 30.00 P a r t B: D e i o n i z e d Water 59.17 PVP/VA Copolymer ( 2 ) 8.00 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) D i s o d i um EDTA P a r t C: Glycerin P o l y s o r b a t e 20 ( 3 )

0.12

0.01 2.00 0.50

Function Gel 1 ing Agent

Di luent Hair Setting Resin Neutralizer C h e l a t i n g Agent Humectant Lubricant/ Fragrance Preservative

Methylparaben 0.20 ( 1 ) Carbomer (BFGoodrich Co.) ( 2 ) L u v i s k o l VA-73W (BASF) ( 3 ) Tween 20 ( I C 1 Americas, I n c . ) , P r o t a s o r b L-20 ( P r o t a m e e n ) , o r N i k k o l TL-10 ( N i k k o ) Procedure: 1 . P r e p a r e 1% Carbopol 980 d i s p e r s i o n i n room t e m p e r a t u r e deionized water. 2. M i x P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l a l l i n g r e d i e n t s d i s s o l v e . 3 . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . 4. M i x P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h s l i g h t h e a t i n g u n t i l paraben i s dissolved. 5. Add P a r t C t o P a r t s A and B. EA u n t i l g e l i s c l e a r . 6 . Add a s m a l l a d d i t i o n a l amount o f P r o p e r t i es : pH: 5 . 6 0 t o 5 . 8 0 V i s c o s i t y ( c p s ) @ 25C: 4,500 t o 8 000 V i s c o s i t y ( c p s ) @ 50C ( d a y 60): 4 500 t o 8, 000 C l a r i t v (%TI: 92.0 t o 95.0 Spec i a 1 I k s t r u c t ions : I n t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n , a PVP/VA ( 7 0 : 3 0 ) copolymer i n aqueous s o l u t i o n i s r e q u i r e d t o m a i n t a i n optimum c l a r i t y a t up t o 4% r e s i n s o l i d s . A d d i t i o n a l l y , t h e b e s t c l a r i t y w i l l be seen when t h e pH i s m a i n t a i n e d between 5 . 5 5 and 5 . 8 0 . S p e c i a l c a r e s h o u l d be t a k e n t o n o t exceed t h i s pH. A d d i t i o n a l h o l d can be o b t a i n e d b y t h e a d d i t i o n o f PVP K90 (BASF) a t 0.5% t o P a r t B w i t h o u t a r e d u c t i o n o f g e l c l a r i t y . Commen t s : T h i s c l e a r g e l has e x c e l l e n t pump s p r a y q u a l i t y , w i t h mode r a t e h o l d and l i t t l e t a c k on h a i r under humid c o n d i t i o n s . Carbopol 980 g i v e s a v e r y c l e a r g e l s t r u c t u r e t o suspend a i r b u b b l e s , y e t t h i n s when pumped t h o r u g h s p r a y e r t o g i v e a f i n e mist. Note: Recommended pump s p r a y e r i s : Calmar Mark I V h i g h p r e s s u r e , 1 . 5 l b . p r e c o m p r e s s i o n s p r i n g , WH o r i f i c e (Calmar, I n c . )

SOURCE: BF Goodrich Co.: F o r m u l a t i o n COO40

351

352

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Styling Gel with Shellac Inaredients: % by W e i g h t C a r b o p o l 1382 1.00 52.30 Demi n e r a l ized w a t e r 0.50 Phenoni p 1.20 8 T r i s Amino C Ethanol 42.00 3.00 Shel l a c Wax MHPlO5 DO Procedure: D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l 1382 i n d e m i n e r a l i z e d w a t e r c o n t a i n i n g Phenonip, a c c o r d i n g t o t h e p r o c e d u r e s u g g e s t e d b y BF G o o d r i c h ( 4 3 0 - 1 ) . C a r b o p o l 1382 can a l s o be d i s p e r s e d u s i n g a r o t o r s t a t o r a t h i g h t u r b u l e n c e . F o a m ' f o r m a t i o n may t h e n o c c u r ; t h i s foam can b e e l i m i n a t e d u s i n g a s m a l l amount o f a s t r o n g i n o r g a n i c a c i d ( 2 0 ppm) N e u t r a l i z e w i t h T r i s Amino. As soon as a c l e a r g e l i s o b t a i n e d , 50% o f t h e E t h a n o l i s added t o o b t a i n a h y d r o - a l c o h o l i c g e l o f C a r b o p o l 1382. S h e l l a c i s d i s s o l v e d i n t h e r e m a i n d e r E t h a n o l . When t h e s h e l l a c i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , t h e s o l u t i o n i s g r a d u a l l y added t o t h e h y d r o - a l c o h o l i c g e l w h i l e g e n t l y s t i r r i n g w i t h an a n c h o r mixer. To remove most o f t h e e n t r a p p e d a i r , t h e g e l i s s l o w l y s t i r r e d f o r 30 m i n u t e s . F i n a l l y t h e h y d r o - a l c o h o l i c S h e l l a c g e l i s t r a n s ferred t o a suitable bottle. I m p o r t a n t N o t e : A t t e n t i o n needs t o b e g i v e n t o t h e S h e l l a c s o l u t i o n ; t h e speed o f d i s s o l u t i o n i s l o w . The S h e l l a c s o l u t i o n i s b e s t p r e p a r e d w h i l e b o i l i n g S h e l l a c under r e f l u x w i t h E t h a n o l , or t o d i s s o l v e S h e l l a c i n E t h a n o l and t o age t h e s o l u t i o n o v e r night. F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0337 s u g g e s t e d b y BF G o o d r i c h

A

.

High Solids 55% VOC Pump Spray Ingredients: % bv Weight L o v o c r y l 47 8-00 AMP-95 1.38 C itroflex-2 0.22 Monamid 716 0.20 Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40 55.00 Dei o n i zed Water 35.20 Fragrance q.s. Preservative q.s. Procedure: D i s s o l v e AMP-95 i n w a t e r and e t h a n o l . W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n L o v o c r y l 4 7 . When d i s s o l v e d , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. V a l v e : S e a q u i s t E u r o M i s t I 1 160 o u t p u t w i t h a 0.016'' x 0.010'' Shallow a c t u a t o r . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0267 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemical Co. SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

353

Styling Mousse Eastman AQ 555 w a t e r - d i s p e r s i b l e p o l y e s t e r i s t h e f i x a t i v e i n t h e s e c o n d i t i o n i n g mousse f o r m u l a s . Eastman AQ 55s p o l y m e r o f f e r s e x c e l l e n t c u r l r e t e n t i o n , h u m i d i t y r e s i s t a n c e , and sheen f o r h a i r . Myvatex T e x t u r e L i t e e m u l s i f i e r and Myvatex 60 e m u l s i f i e r p r o v i d e a s t a b l e h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g base f o r b o t h h y d r o a l c o h o l i c and a l c o h o l - f r e e f o r m u l a s . L e v e l s o f Eastman AQ 55s and Myvatex T e x t u r e L i t e can be a d j u s t e d t o m o d i f y l e v e l s o f h o l d and c o n d i t i o n i n g . These m i l d , n o n i o n i c , s o a p - f r e e formulas a r e s u i t a b l e f o r a l l h a i r types. Formulation X22176-106 (Hydroalcoholic) %w/W Concentrate: D i s t i l l e d water q . s . * t o 100 Eastman AQ 55s p o l y m e r 8.0 Myvatex T e x t u r e L i t e emul s i f ie r 2.0 Monamid 150 ADD 1.o Myvatex 60 emul s i f ie r 0.3 SDA-40C a l c o h o l 20.0 Fragrance q.s.* C i t r i c acid q.s.* *q.s.=quantity s u f f i c i e n t Procedure: 1. Heat Eastman AQ 555 and w a t e r t o 80-85C w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l t h e polymer i s completely dispersed i n t h e water. 2 . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . 3 . S l o w l y add Myvatex T e x t u r e L i t e w i t h h i g h - s p e e d a g i t a t i o n . Care s h o u l d be t a k e n when m i x i n g t o a v o i d a e r a t i o n . 4. When u n i f o r m , add Myvatex 60 and Monamid 1 5 0 ADD. 5 . S l o w l y add SDA-40C a l c o h o l . 6 . Add f r a g r a n c e . 7 . A d j u s t p H t o 6.5-7.0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 8 . A e r o s o l f i n a l c o n c e n t r a t e a t 5.23 g/mL o f A46 p r o p e l l a n t (Aeropress). Formulation X22176-107 (Alcohol-Free) Concentrate: %w/w D i s t i l l e d water q . s . * t o 100 Eastman AQ 555 p o l y m e r 8.0 5.5 Myvatex T e x t u r e L i t e emul s i f ie r Monamid 150 ADO 1.o Myvatex 60 e m u l s i f i e r 0.3 Preservative q.s.* Fragrance q.s.* Ci tr ic acid q.s.* *q. s . = q u a n t i t y s u f f i c i e n t Procedure: 1 . Heat Eastman AQ 55s and w a t e r t o 80-85C w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l t h e polymer i s completely d i s p e r s e d i n t h e water. 2 . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and add p r e s e r v a t i v e . 3 . S l o w l y add Myvatex T e x t u r e L i t e w i t h h i g h - s p e e d a g i t a t i o n . Care s h o u l d b e t a k e n when m i x i n g t o a v o i d a e r a t i o n . 4 . When u n i f o r m , add Myvatex 60 and Monamid 150 ADD. 5 . Add f r a g r a n c e . 6. A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 6 . A e r o s o l f i n a l c o n c e n t r a t e a t 5 . 2 3 g/mL o f A46 p r o p e l l a n t (Aeropress). SOURCE: Eastman Chemical Co.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

354

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Super-Hold Hair Spray % by Wei nht 82.43 12.00 5.00 0.37 0.20

Inqredi ents : SDA 40 A l c o h o l (190 P r o o f ) S t e p a n h o l d R-1 D e i o n i zed Water AMP-95 Perfume

Procedure: D i s s o l v e t h e S t e p a n h o l d R - 1 i n a l c o h o l and add t h e AMP; m i x w e l l . Add t h e d e i o n i z e d w a t e r and perfume; m i x u n t i l t h e p r o d u c t i s clear. F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0102

s u g g e s t e d b y Stepan Chemical Co. Aerosol Hair Spray % by Weight

I n Q r e d ie n t s : G a n t r e z ES-225 o r ES-425 AMP-Regul a r A r o s u r f 66-E2 Isopropyl Lanolate Fragrance E t h a n o l , SDA Anhydrous Propellant

4.00 0.09 0.10 0.05 0.10 45.66 50.00

Procedure: D i s s o l v e t h e n e u t r a l i z e r (AMP) i n t h e a l c o h o l and add t h e G a n t r e z r e s i n . When t h e r e s i n i s i n s o l u t i o n , add t h e r e m a i n i n g ingredients i n the order l i s t e d . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0103 s u g g e s t e d b y t h e Sherex Chemical Co. Hairspray (Mechanically Actuated) In g r e d i e n t s : Resyn 18-2930 AMP-95 Emcol CC-9 Fragrance E t h a n o l (190 p r o o f SDA-40)

% by Weiaht

4.50 0.36 0.15 q.s. 94.99

V a l v e : Calmar M-2 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0117 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemical C o r p ,

SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.:

Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

355

Ultra Rich Conditioner (Formula 90-0303M) Rhodaquat M270C/18 C e t y l A l c o h o l NF A1 kamul s EGMS/C J a g u a r HP-60 C i t r i c Acid Fragrance, Dye(s), P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

% bv Weight 3.50 1 .so 1-00 0.80

P.S. Q.S. 93.20

B l e n d i n a P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e J a g u a r HP-60 i n w a t e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Warm w a t e r s y s t e m t o 70-7532 and b l e n d i n Rhodaquat M270C/18, C e t y l A l c o h o l NF, and A l k a m u l s EGMS. Once s y s t e m i s u n i f o r m , a d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n pH t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d as needed. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , c o o l s y s t e m t o 40-45C and b l e n d i n c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) and P r e s e r v a t i v e . Appearance @ 25C: pH : % Non V o l a t i l e s :

Typical Formulation Properties Opaque/Pearlescent 3.5-4.5 4-5

Liquid

CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , C e t y l A l c o h o l , G l y c o l S t e a r a t e , S t e a r a l k o n i u m C h l o r i d e , H y d r o x y p r o p y l Guar, F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c Acid, Dye(s). Hair Relaxer (Formula 92-1205) M i r a n o l DM Conc. (45%) Sodi um H y d r o x i d e (50%) Mineral O i l A1 kamul s EGDS C e t y l A l c o h o l NF Dei o n i zed Water P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dyes

% by W e i a h t 15.0 8.0 5.0 3.0

1.o

68.0 q.s.

P r o c e d u r e : Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s ( e x c e p t sodium h y d r o x i d e ) w i t h m i x i n g t o 75C u n t i l u n i f o r m . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 45C, t h e n add sodium h y d r o x i d e . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e p r e s e r v a t i v e and d y e . Appearance @ 25C: V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: pH : % Non V o l a t i l e s :

Typical Formulation Properties: V i s c o u s , opaque l i q u i d 8,000-10,000 C ~ S 9-1 1 20

CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : W a t e r , S t e a r o a m p h o a c e t a t e , M i n e r a l O i l , Sodium H y d r o x i d e , G l y c o l S t e a r a t e , C e t y l A l c o h o l , P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dyes. SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : F o r m u l a s

356

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Vegetable Creme Hair Dressing W &% J A.

D e i o n i z e d Water Carbopol 940-2% Aq. S o l ' n . (Carbomer 940) Wheat-Tein N L ( H y d r o l y z e d Wheat P r o t e i n ) Tween 2 0 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 2 0 )

B . Mayphos OL 3N (DEA-Oleth-3 Phosphate) A r l a c e l 60 ( S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e ) Petrolatum Wheat Germ O i l Sesame O i l C e t y l A1 coho1 A r l a c e l 165 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) Isopropyl Palmitate Shea B u t t e r C.

Triethanolamine-99% P r e s e r v a t i v e s , Fragrance

44.70 35.00 3.00 1.50 0.30 1.50 2.00 2.00 3.00 1

.oo

1.oo 3.00 1.oo 1

.oo 9.s.

Procedure: Heat Phases A & B s e p a r a t e l y t o 80C. Add Phase B t o A a t 80C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . M i x u n t i l smooth. Add phase C c a r e f u l l y t o a v o i d aeration. P r o p e r t i es : A creme h a i r d r e s s i n g based on n a t u r a l v e g e t a b l e o i l s and p r o t e i n s . C o n d i t i o n s and m o i s t u r i z e s l e a v i n g a smooth f i n i s h and n a t u r a l s h i n e . Reduces s p l i t ends and d r y n e s s w i t h o u t l e a v i n g a g r e a s y f e e l . Wheat-Tein NL p r o t e c t s and r e p a i r s t h e h a i r . Mayphos OL 3 N a c t s as an a d j u n c t e m u l s i f i e r and adds an a t t r a c t i v e s h i n e . E x c e l l e n t f o r s e t t i n g , p r e s s i n g , b l o w d r y i n g and condi t i o n i n g . Massage a s m a l l amount i n t o t h e h a i r and e s p e c i a l l y i n t o t h e ends.

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : Formula #HE-1651 Clear Conditioner Mackpro C o n d i t i o n e r * H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l ose M a c k s t a t DM Water, F r a g r a n c e , Dye q s t o Procedure: 1 . Completely disperse Hydroxyethylcellulose i n water. 2 . Heat t o 45C and add Mackpro c o n d i t i o n e r . 3 , A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 w i t h l a c t i c a c i d . 4 . When p r o d u c t i s c l e a r , add r e m a i n i n g components. 5 . Cool and f i l l . *Based on 100% c o n c e n t r a t i o n SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Hair Care Products

357

Water-Based Hair Sprays These f o r m u l a t i o n s d e m o n s t r a t e a d u a l - r e s i n a p p r o a c h to a l c o h o l - f r e e h a i r s p r a y systems w h i c h u t i l i z e t h e q u i c k s e t t i n g b e n e f i t s o f Eastman AQ p o l y m e r t o a c h i e v e comparable p e r f o r m a n c e w i t h t r a d i t i o n a l a l c o h o l p r o d u c t s . The c o m b i n a t i o n o f Eastman AQ w a t e r - d i s p e r s i b l e p o l y e s t e r s and c o n v e n t i o n a l w a t e r - s o l u b l e r e s i n s p r o v i d e s p e r f o r m a n c e improvements o v e r s i n g l e component systems. T h i s t e c h n o l o g y p r o v i d e s f o r m u l a t i o n f l e x i b i l i t y t o o p t i m i z e p e r f o r m a n c e i n rinseability/washability, d e g r e e o f h o l d , h u m i d i t y r e s i s t a n c e , f i l m e l a s t i c i t y , and v i s c o s i t y c o n t r o l f o r spray p a t t e r n . Formulation X21980-057 (Pump) Phase A : D i s t i 1l e d water Eastman AP 55s p o l y m e r Phase 8 : Germall I1 d i a z o l i d i n y l urea Methylparaben Phase C : L u v i s k o l VA 73W PVP/VA copolymer-50% s o l i d s Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A t o 85C. 2 . W i t h m i x i n g , h o l d a t 80-85C f o r 15 m i n u t e s . 3 . Cool t o 60C, add Phase B, and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . 4 . Cool t o 40C and add Phase C . 5 . Add w a t e r l o s t d u r i n g h e a t i n g . 6. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m ; f i l t e r and package. pH: 6 . O t - 1 . 0

%w/w 90.4 5.0 0.3

0.3 4.0

Formulation X21980-058 (Aerosol) Phase A : 60.4 D i s t i l l e d water 5.0 Eastman AQ 38s p o l y m e r Phase B: 0.3 Germall I 1 d i a z o l i d i n y l u r e a Methylparaben 0.3 Phase C: 4.0 L u v i s k o l VA 73W PVP/VA copolymer-50% s o l i d s Phase D : 30.0 Dymel A d i m e t h y l e t h e r Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A to 85C. 2 . W i t h m i x i n g , h o l d a t 80-85C f o r 15 m i n u t e s . 3 . Cool t o 60C, add Phase B, and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . 4. Cool t o 40C and add Phase C . 5 . Add w a t e r l o s t d u r i n g h e a t i n g . 6 . Add Phase D a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . 7 . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m ; f i l t e r and package. 8 . A g i t a t e aerosol c o n t a i n e r t o ensure s o l u t i o n o f p r o p e l l a n t . pH: 6 . O t - 1 . 0

SOURCE:

Eastman Chemical Co.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

358

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Water-Based Pump Hair Spray Water-based s p r a y p r o v i d e s c l e a r g l o s s y f i l m and s t r o n g h o l d on h a i r . F i x a t i v e p o l y m e r r e q u i r e s no n e u t r a l i z a t i o n ; has l o w v i s c o s i t y f o r e f f e c t i v e s p r a y p a t t e r n and b e t t e r d r y t i m e . % bv Weight

Inaredients: Part A: D e i o n i z e d Water

91.50

Part 8 : Dimethicone copolyol Laurami de DEA (Monamide 71 6 ) AMP-Acrylates Copolymer ( D i a h o l d A-503) Glycerin Propylene Glycol Fragrance Preservative

0.30 0.30 7.00 0.20 0.40 0.10 0.20

Procedure: Add A t o v e s s e l . Add B i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0250 s u g g e s t e d b y Sandoz Hair Spritzing Spray, Non-Aerosol Inaredients: C r o v o l M40 ( c o r n o i l PEG-20 complex) AMP-95 E t h a n o l DEB 100 G a n t r e z ES425 (PVM/MA c o p o l y m e r ) E s c a l o l 507 ( o c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA) Water, d e i o n i zed d-Panthenol Perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e s , c o l o r

% by Weight

0.50 0.16 t o 100 8.00 1 .oo 11.36 0.10 q.s.

Procedure: D i s s o l v e t h e AMP-95 i n t h e a l c o h o l . Add t h e G a n t r e z ES r e s i n w i t h m i x i n g . Mix i n t h e E s c a l o l , then C r o v o l . Premix t h e water and P a n t h e n o l t h e n add t h e a l c o h o l . M i x u n t i l c l e a r . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0249E

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

359

Wet Gel, Alcohol-Free

%w/w

I

E u m u l g i n HRE 60 1.0 Perfume 0.5 I 1 Water 55.0 C a r b o p o l 940 0.8 I 1 1 Water 5.0 T r i e t h a n o l ami n e 1.5 I V Nasuna B 0.5 Water 35.7 P r e p a r a t i o n : C a r b o p o l 940 i s s p r i n k l e d i n t o t h e a l c o h o l / w a t e r m i x t u r e s t i r r i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y , and a l l o w e d t o s w e l l . L a t e r i t i s neutralized w i t h the triethanolamine dissolved i n 5 parts water. Nasuna 6 i s d i s s o l v e d i n t h e r e m a i n i n g w a t e r , s t i r r i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y . T h i s s o l u t i o n i s added t o t h e s w o l l e n C a r b o p o l . E u m u l g i n SML 20 and p e r f u m e a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r and t h e n m i x e d w i t h a s m a l l q u a n t i t y o f t h e above g e l b e f o r e b e i n g m i x e d w i t h t h e remaining g e l , F o r m u l a No. WF11-27 Wet Gel E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% Water C a r b o p o l 940 Triethanolamine E u m u l g i n SML 20 Perfume P r e p a r a t i o n : See F o r m u l a W F l l - 2 7 F o r m u l a No. WF11-30

41 . O 51 . 9 0.0 1.o 5.0 0.3

Setting Lotion, Clear, in Gel Form

%w/w Nasuna B C a r b o p o l 940 Ethyl/isopropyl alcohol T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Water P r e p a r a t i o n : See Formul a WF11-27 F o r m u l a N o . WF 11-32

4.0 0.7 50.1 1 .o 44.2

Hair Oil Paraffin o i l Cetiol V Isopropyl myristate F o r m u l a No. WF31-01

60.0

30.0 10.0 Hair Oil

%w/w Paraffin o i l C e t i o l E3 F o r m u l a No. WF31-02 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model Formulae

90.0 10.0

360

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Wet Gel with Glitter Effect, Contains Alcohol

%w/w Water 20.0 E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% 41 . O C a r b o p o l 940 0.7 I 1 Water 5.0 1.o T r i e t h a n o l ami ne I11 Water 25.0 Nasuna B 1.o I V Eumulgin SML 20 5.0 Perfume 0.3 V P o l y e s t e r g l i t t e r b l u e 25/105R 1.o P r e p a r a t i o n : Carbopol 940 i s s p r i n k l e d i n t o t h e a l c o h o l / w a t e r m i x t u r e s t i r r i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y , and a l l o w e d t o s w e l l . L a t e r i t i s neutralized with the triethanolamine dissolved i n 5 parts water. Nasuna B i s d i s s o l v e d i n t h e r e m a i n i n g w a t e r , s t i r r i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y . T h i s s o l u t i o n i s added t o t h e s w o l l e n C a r b o p o l . Eumulgin SML 20 and p e r f u m e a r e mixed t o g e t h e r and t h e n mixed w i t h a s m a l l q u a n t i t y o f t h e above g e l b e f o r e b e i n g mixed w i t h the remaining g e l . F i n a l l y , t h e p o l y e s t e r g l i t t e r i s s t i r r e d i n . To i m p r o v e t h e appearance t h e C a r b o p o l g e l can be c o l o r e d y e l l o w ( f o r g o l d e n polyester g l i t t e r ) or blue (for blue polyester g l i t t e r ) . Formula No. W F l l - 1 4 I

Wet Gel with Glitter Effect, Contains Alcohol

omw/w I

Water E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% Carbopol 940 I I Water Triethanolamine 111 Water Nasuna B I V Eumulgin RO 40 Perfume V P o l y e s t e r g l i t t e r b l u e 25/105R P r e p a r a t i o n : See Formula W F l l - 1 4 Formula No. WF11-16

20.0 41 . O 0.7 5.0 1.o 29.2 1.o 0.8 0.3 1 .o

Wet Gel

%w/W E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% Water Carbopol 940 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Eumulgin SML 20 Perfume P r e p a r a t i o n : See Formula W F l l - 1 4 Formula No. W F l l - 1 7

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

40.0 53.1 0.6 1.o 5.0 0.3

Hair Care Products

361

Wet Gel with Reduced Alcohol Content

%w/w Water 40.0 E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% 20.0 C a r b o p o l 940 0.8 I 1 Water 5.0 Triethanolamine 1.2 1 1 1 Nasuna B 0.5 Water 30.0 I V E u m u l g i n HRE 40 2.0 Perfume 0.5 P r e p a r a t i o n : C a r b o p o l 940 i s s p r i n k l e d i n t o t h e a l c o h o l / w a t e r m i x t u r e s t i r r i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y , and a l l o w e d t o s w e l l . L a t e r i t i s neutralized w i t h the triethanolamine dissolved i n 5 p a r t s water. Nasuna B i s d i s s o l v e d i n t h e r e m a i n i n g w a t e r , s t i r r i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y . T h i s s o l u t i o n i s added t o t h e s w o l l e n C a r b o p o l . E u m u l g i n SML 20 and p e r f u m e a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r and t h e n m i x e d w i t h a s m a l l q u a n t i t y o f t h e above g e l b e f o r e b e i n g m i x e d w i t h t h e remaining g e l . F o r m u l a No. W F l l - 1 9

I

Wet Gel, Alcohol-Free

I

Water Carbopol 940 I 1 Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne I 1 1 Water Nasuna B I V P o l y q u a r t H81 Perfume P r e p a r a t i o n : See f o r m u l a WF11-19 F o r m u l a No. WF11-23 Wet Gel, Alcohol-Free

I

E u m u l g i n HRE 40 Perfume I1 Water C a r b o p o l 940 I 1 1 Water T r ie t hano 1ami ne I V Nasuna B Water P r e p a r a t i o n : See f o r m u l a WF11-19 F o r m u l a No. WF11-25 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

55.0

0.8 5.0

2.0 35.0 1 .o 1. o 0.2

% y & 1 .o 0.5 55.0 0.8 5.0 1.5 0.5 35.7

362

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Wheat Moisturizing and Styling Gel

%w/w

Tween 20 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 20) 1 .oo I v a r l a n AWS (PPG-12 PEG-65 L a n o l i n O i l ) 2.00 F r a g r a n c e (Novarome Tuberose MG-02) 0.20 Glycerin 10.00 D e i o n i z e d Water 22.20 Wheat-Tein NL ( H y d r o l y z e d Wheat P r o t e i n ) 1.00 Preservative, color q.s. B. C a r b o p o l 940 (2% Aq. S o l ' n ) (Carbomer 940) 50.00 C . Aminomethyl P r o p a n o l 0.60 0 . I s o p r o p y l A l c o h o l 99% 10.00 PVP/VA E-735 (PVP/VA Copolymer) 2.00 E . K e r a - T e i n 1000 AS ( E t h y l E s t e r o f H y d r o l y z e d K e r a t i n ) 1.00 Procedure: P r e - m i x AWS, Tween and F r a g r a n c e u n t i l c l e a r . Add t h e G l y c e r i n , w a t e r and wheat. M i x u n t i l homogeneous. Add t o Phase B . Add Phase C (AMP) t o A/B. M i x t u r e w i l l c l e a r and t h i c k e n . P r e - m i x Phase D . Add t o b a t c h . Add Phase E . M i x . P r o p e r t ies : A t h i c k , s p r e a d a b l e g e l p r o v i d i n g h a i r h o l d i n g and m o i s t u r i z i n g . Adds s h i n e and p r o t e c t i v e p r o t e i n s t o t h e h a i r . K e r a - T e i n 1000 AS i s a s u b s t a n t i v e c a t i o n i c e s t e r . Wheat-Tein NL i s a substantive, film-forming protein. F o r m u l a #HF-1003

A.

Hi-Fashion Hair Sculpture Gel

%w/w A.

D e i o n i z e d Water 19.50 P r o - T e i n ES-20 ( E t h y l E s t e r o f H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ) 3.00 T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 0.10 Aqua-Tein C ( C o l l a g e n Amino A c i d s ( a n d ) A c e t a m i d e MEA ( a n d ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ) 1.00 Carbomer 940 - 2% Aq. S o l ' n 44.00 B. SO A l c o h o l 40A 30.00 PVP/VA E535 2.00 0.10 Fragrance C . A m i nomethyl P r o p a n o l -95 0.30 Procedure: 1 . M i x Phase A a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . 2. P r e - m i x Phase 0 , t h e n add t o A . 3 . Add Phase C t o A/B. P r o p e r t i es : A pumpable, s t y l i n g g e l f o r t h e v e r y f a s h i o n a b l e new h a i r s t y l e s . R e p a i r s and c o n d i t i o n s w h i l e p r o v i d i n g a p r o f e s s i o n a l h o l d . P r o t e i n ES-20 i s a c a t i o n i c p r o t e i n w h i c h p r o v i d e s s h i n e and f l e x t o t h e h a i r . T h i s c a t i o n i c p r o t e i n i s u n u s u a l i n t h a t i t i s compatible w i t h t h e a n i o n i c Carbopol. Aqua-Tein C n u r t u r e s t h e h a i r f r o m w i t h i n p r o v i d i n g a n a t u r a l f e e l and bounce w h i l e p o t e c t i n g t h e h a i r f r o m e x t e r n a l damage. F o r m u l a #HF-1002

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products

363

3 in 1 Professional Conditioning Mousse with Sunscreen

Ingredients: Water P o l y c a r e 133 I g e p a l CO-630 M i r a n o l U l t r a C-32 S y n t a s e 230 M i r a p o l A-15 dl-Panthenol Alcohol (190 p r o o f ) S i 1b i one 71 634 S i 1b i one 70646 AMP-95 Preservative, Fragrance A-46 P r o p e l 1a n t

% b v Weight 70.153 3.15 0.18 0.18 0.045 0.10 0.045 16.00 0.120 0.027 q . s . pH=5.0 q.s. 10.00

Procedure: 1 . Add w a t e r t o t h e m a i n b e a k e r and d i s s o l v e t h e d l - P a n t h e n o l and S y n t a s e 2 3 0 . 2. Add and d i s s o l v e t h e P o l y c a r e 133. 3 . Add I g e p a l CO 630, M i r a p o l A-15, M i r a n o l U l t r a C-32, and Alcohol. 4 . Prephase S i l b i o n e 71634 and S i l b i o n e 70646, t h e n add t o m a i n phase. 5 . Add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . 6 . A d j u s t pH w i t h AMP-95. 7 . Package p r o d u c t u s i ng P r o p e l 1 a n t A-46. Valve: Actuator: Stem: Stem g a s k e t : Spring: Body : Mounting C l i p :

021 560 1270 0330 6010 0-6973 C o n i c a l , A1 umi num Epon

Typical Formulation Properties: Appearance o f J U S : W h i t e , Opaque L o t i o n pH: 4 . 5 - 5 . 0 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0283 s u g g e s t e d b y Rhone-Poulenc SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . :

Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

364

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

55% VOC DME/HFC-152a Aerosol Hair Spray Inqredi ents: Water Ethanol AMP-95 Acudyne 255 (41% s o l i d s ) HFC-152a D i m e t h y l e t h e r (DME) Dow C o r n i n g 190 F l u i d

% bv Weiaht

22.42 34.60 0.56 12.50 9.60 20.40 0.10

Procedure: M i x w a t e r , e t h a n o l , AMP-95 and p l a s t i c i z e r . Add p o l y m e r w i t h s t i r r i n g . Mix u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s s l i g h t l y t u r b i d , b u t actives a r e d i s p e r s e d . Charge HFC-152a and DME. The m i x t u r e immedi a t e 1 y turns clear. Properties: C l o u d P o i n t : <-22F Vapor P r e s s u r e : 40 p s i g @ 70F F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0316 s u g g e s t e d b y Rohm and Haas 55% VOC Pump Hair Spray

I n g r ed ie n t s : Water Ethanol AMP-95 Acudyne 255 (41% s o l i d s ) Dow C o r n i n g 190 F l u i d

% by W e i g h t

31 . 8 4 55.00 0.56 12.50 0.10

Procedure: M i x w a t e r , e t h a n o l , AMP-95 and p l a s t i c i z e r . Add p o l y m e r w i t h s t i r r i n g . Mix u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r . N e u t r a l i z a t i o n l e v e l i s 55%. P r o p e r t i es : C l o u d P o i n t : <-22F V i s c o s i t y : 8 . 5 cps,

s p i n d l e #1 @ 60 rpm

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0315 s u g g e s t e d b y Rohm and Haas SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . :

Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

365

80% VOC Non-Aerosol Hair Spray % b y Weiqht Inqredients/CTFA Desinnations: Amphomer LV-7l/0ctylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethyl M e t h a c r y l a t e Copolymer 5.00 AMP-95/Ami n o m e t h y l P r o p a n o l 0.98 U v i n u l MS-40/Benzophenone-4 0.05 dl-Panthenol/Panthenol 0.21 DC-l93/Dimethicone Co p o l yo l 0.30 Citroflex-2/Triethyl Citrate 0.20 Armeen DM-IED/Dimethyl S t e a r a m i n e 0.17 D e i o n i z e d Water 13.09 Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40 80.00

Procedure: D i s s o l v e AMP and Armeen DM-I8D i n w a t e r and e t h a n o l . W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n Amphomer LV-71. When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x w e l l u n t i 1 homogeneous. F i 1t e r and f i 1 1 . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0259 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemical Co.

80% VOC Pump Hair Spray with Gantrez C-425 and Gantrez XL-80 Inaredients: E t h a n o l (190 p r o o f ) Water G a n t r e z XL-80 (PVM/MA Decadiene C r o s s p o l y m e r ) AMP-95 G a n t r e z V-425 ( B u t y l E s t e r o f PVM/MA C o p o l y m e r ) Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e Fragrance

% by W e i g h t

79.63 3.96 5.70 0.41 10.00 0.10 0.20

Procedure: 1 . Add E t h a n o l and w a t e r t o m a i n t a n k . S t a r t m i x i n g and add G a n t r e z XL-80. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y b l e n d e d . 2 . Add AMP-95 and m i x u n t i l b l e n d e d . 3 . Add G a n t r e z V-425 and t h e n a d d i t i o n a l i n g r e d e n t s w h i l e m i x i n g c o m p l e t e l y a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0260 s u g g e s t e d b y ISP SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . :

Angus P r o d u c t Formu a r y

366

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

80% VOC Pump Hair Spray % by Weight

Ingredie n 3 Resyn 28-2930 Amphomer LV-71 AMP-95 D i m e t h i cone c o p o l yo1 Cocamidopropyl b e t a i ne Fragrance Dei o n i zed w a t e r Anhydrous e t h a n o l , SDA-40

5.41 1.19 0.74 0.11 0.10 0.15 12.30 80.00

Procedure: D i s s o l v e AMP-95 i n w a t e r and e t h a n o l . W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n Resyn 28-2930 and Amphomer LV-71. When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0206 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Non-Aerosol Hair Spray Oh by_ W g l g h t

I n g r e d i en& A l c o h o l SD-40 Resyn 28-2930 PPG-10 c e t y l e t h e r AMP-95

A.

60.00 3.00 0.80 0.40

B . Deionized water C r o t e i n ADW

35.60 0.20

Procedure: Add t h e AMP-95 o f P a r t A t o t h e a l c o h o l w i t h m i x i n g . When u n i f o r m , add t h e Resyn 29-2930 w i t h m i x i n g . When u n i f o r m , add t h e PPG-10 c e t y l e t h e r . S e p a r a t e l y , m i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t 8 , t h e n add t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0222 s u g g e s t e d b y Croda I n c . 80% VOC Aerosol Hairspray Formulation

Stiff Feel % by Weight Insredients: 8.00 Advantage V R e s i n 0.24 AMP-95 46.00 SD A l c o h o l 40 15.76 D i s t i l l e d Water 9.00 P r o p e l 1 a n t A-1 7 21 .00 D i m e t h y l E t h e r P r o p e l 1a n t q.s. Plasticizer q.s. Fragrance F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0205 s u g g e s t e d b y I n t e r n a t o n a l Spec a l t y P r o d u c t s

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

367

80% VOC Pump Hair Spray Inaredi ents : % by Weight Lovocryl-47 4.13 Resyn 28-2930 1.37 AMP-95 0.96 Sandopan LS-24 0.20 DC P2-5220 0.20 D e i o n i z e d Water 13.14 Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40 80.00 Fragrance q.s. V a l v e : S e a q u i s t E u r o m i s t I 1 160 o u t p u t w i t h a 0 . 0 1 6 " x 0.010'' deep a c t u a t o r . Procedure: D i s s o l v e AMP i n e t h a n o l . S l o w l y s i f t i n Resyn 28-2930, maint a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n . When d i s s o l v e d , s l o w l y s i f t i n L o v o c r y l 4 7 . Upon d i s s o l u t i o n , add t h e w a t e r f o l l o w e d b y t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0282 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemical C o r p .

80% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray I n a r e d ients: % by Weight Amphomer LV-71 3.75 AMP-95 0.78 0.14 Armeen DM 18D C itroflex-2 0.20 Monamid 716 0.15 Sol u l a n - 7 5 0.10 0.10 Neo-He1 iopan AV G1 y c e r i ne 0.10 Panthenol 0.10 D e i o n i z e d Water 14.58 SDA-40 Anhydrous 50.00 Fragrance q.s. P r o p . A-17 ( n - b u t a n e ) 15.00 Dimethyl e t h e r 15.00 Procedure: D i s s o l v e AMP-95 and Armeen DM 18D i n w a t e r and e t h a n o l . W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n Amphomer LV-71. When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i 1 t e r , f i11 and c h a r g e w i t h p r o p e l 1a n t s . P r e c i s i o n V a l v e and A c t u a t o r S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : Stem: 04-1215 0 . 1 6 " Stem G a s k e t : 05-0350 B u t y l Spring: 06-6010 SS Body : 07-7970 . 0 1 6 " LD M o u n t i n g Cup: 32-7300-62 F l a t , Epon T o p / B o t t o m D i m p l e d , FBS D i p Tube: 09-201 0 A c t u a t o r S t y l e : 21-8146 Kosmos O r i f i c e Size: . 0 2 5 " MB Concave F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0284 f r o m N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co.

SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

368

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

80% VOC Pump Hair Spray Inaredients: Resyn 28-2930 Amphomer LV-71 AMP-95 Dimethicone copolyol Cocamidopropyl b e t a i n e Fragrance Deionized water Anhydrous e t h a n o l , SDA-.40

% bv W e i a h t 5.41 1.19 0.74 0.11 0.10 0.15 12.30 80.00

Procedure: D i s s o l v e AMP-95 i n w a t e r and e t h a n o l . W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n Resyn 28-2930 and Amphomer LV-71. When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0206 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Non-Aerosol Hair Spray Inaredients: A . A l c o h o l SD-40 Resyn 28-2930 PPG-10 c e t y l e t h e r AMP-95

% bv Weiaht 60.00 3.00

8. D e i o n i z e d w a t e r C r o t e i n ADW

0.80 0.40 35.60 0.20

Procedure: Add t h e AMP-95 o f P a r t A t o t h e a l c o h o l w i t h m i x i n g . When u n i f o r m , add t h e Resyn 29-2930 w i t h m i x i n g . When u n i f o r m , add t h e PPG-10 c e t y l e t h e r . S e p a r a t e l y , m i x t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t 8, t h e n add t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0222 s u g g e s t e d b y Croda I n c .

80% VOC Aerosol Hairspray Formulation Stiff Feel

In a r e d i e n t s : % bv W e i a h t 8.00 Advantage V R e s i n 0.24 AMP-95 46.00 SD A l c o h o l 40 15.76 D i s t i l l e d Water 9.00 P r o p e l 1a n t A-1 7 21 . o o Dimethyl Ether P r o p e l l a n t q.s. Plasticizer q.s. Fragrance F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0205 s u g g e s t e d b y I n t e r n a t i o n a l S p e c i a l t y P r o d u c t s

SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

369

80% VOC Pump H a i r S p r a y w i t h Gantrez V-225, Advantage V and Gantrez XL-80 Ingredients: E t h a n o l (190 p r o o f ) Water G a n t r e z XL-80 (PVM/MA Decadiene C r o s s p o l y m e r ) AM?-95 Advantage V ( V A / B u t y l M a l e a t e / I s o b o r n y l A c r y l a t e Copolymer) G a n t r e z V-225 ( E t h y l E s t e r o f PVM/MA Copolymer) Phenyl T r i m e t h i cone Fragrance

% b y Wei g h t 78.82 3.13 5.70 0.45 5.75 5.75 0.10 0.30

Procedure: 1 . Add E t h a n o l and w a t e r t o main t a n k . S t a r t m i x i n g and add G a n t r e z XL-80. M i x u n t i 1 c o m p l e t e l y b l e n d e d . 2 . Add AMP-95 and m i x u n t i l b l e n d e d . 3 . Add Advantage V , G a n t r e z V-225 and t h e n a d d i t i o n a l i n g r e d i e n t s w h i l e m i x i n g c o m p l e t e l y a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0261 s u g g e s t e d b y ISP

Alcohol-Free Styling Mist Ingredients/CTFA Designations: % b y Wei a h t Amphomer LV-7l/0ctylacrylarnide/Acrylates/Butylamino7.00 e t h y l M e t h a c r y l a t e Copolymer 1.50 AM?-95/Aminomethyl P r o p a n o l 0.15 Monamid 71 6/Laurami de DEA 0.10 Glycerine 0.20 Dow C o r n i n g 19O/Dimethicone C o p o l y o l 0.05 Uvimul MS-40/Benzophenone 4 0.20 F r a g r a n c e / S u n f l o w e r F r a g r a n c e 12294 Germaben I I / P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i a z o 1 d i n y l Urea 1 .OD (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben D e i o n i z e d Water 89.80 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0262 s u g g e s t e d by N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemical Co.

SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

370

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

80% VOC Shine and Hold Spray Inqredients: % by Weight Amp homer 5.00 AMP-95 0.82 Dow C o r n i n g 190 5.00 Monamid 716 0.20 Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40 80.00 D e i o n i z e d Water 8.98 Procedure: D i s s o l v e AMP-95 i n e t h a n o l and w a t e r . Whi l e mai n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s i f t i n Amphomer. When s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add DC-190 and Monamid 716. M i x u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0270 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemical Co. Non-Aerosol 80% VOC Hair Spray Ingredients: % by Weight G a n t r e z A-425 24.00 SD-40 200P 68.00 AMP-95 0.98 Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e 0.10 Dei o n i zed Water 6.67 Fragrance 0.25 Procedure: 1 . Add E t h a n o l and AMP-95 t o s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r . M i x w e l l . 2 . Add G a n t r e z A-425. M i x w e l l . 3 . Add Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e . M i x we1 1 . 4. Add f r a g r a n c e . M i x w e l l . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0287 s u g g e s t e d b y ISP Firm Holding Hairspray S t r o n g h o l d , f o r a l l c l i m a t i c zones, easy c o m b a b i l i t y , good b r u s h - o u t , good wash-out p r o p e r t i e s . Ingredients: % by Weiaht L u v i m e r 1OOP 3.. 0 0 AMP R e g u l a r 0.69 Ethanol 36.31 Dimethyl e t h e r 60.00 q.s. Perfume Procedure: Combine e t h a n o l , AMP and p e r f u m e . Add L u v i m e r lOOP t o t h e s o l u t i o n and m i x u n t i l c l e a r . C l o u d p o i n t : -35C Pressure: 3 . 9 bar D e n s i t y : 0 . 7 4 g/cm 3 F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0288 s u g g e s t e d b y BASF ~~

SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.:

Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Hair Care Products

371

80% VOC Super Hold Hair Spray S i l i c o n e polymer b l e n d reduces v i s c o s i t y , improves spray p a t t e r n b y f u n c t i o n i n g as a defoamer and i m p r o v e s s e t r e t e n t i o n . Insredi ents: % b v Wei a h t P a r t A: V i n y l acetate/butyl maleate/i sobornyl a c r y l a t e copolymer 10.00 AMP-95 0.14 Phenyl t r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 AV-2OHS) 0.10 D i m e t h i c o n e c o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 8852) 0.10 D i m e t h i c o n e / s o d i u m PG p r o p y l d i m e t h i c o n e t h i o s u l f a t e c o p o l y m e r ( A b i l S-201) 0.20 SD a l c o h o l 40 37.71 Water 16.50 Dimethyl e t h e r 21 .oo S t e a r y l h e p t a n o a t e ( T e g o s o f t SH) 0.15 Sodium l a u r o y l s a r c o s i n a t e 0.05 D i s o d i urn d o d e c e n y l s u l f o s u c c i n a t e 0.05 Part 8: I s o b u t a n e (and) propane

14.00

Procedure: M i x A , m i x i n g w e l l between a d d i t i o n s . e r s . Charge s p r a y c o n t a i n e r s w i t h B.

F i l l i n t o spray contain-

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0252 s u g g e s t e d b y G o l d s c h m i d t 80% VOC Hairspray Ingredients: Part A: AMP-95 Deionized water Ethanol

% by Weiqht 0.70 11 .oo 72.00

P a r t B: Monoethyl e s t e r o f p o ly m e t h yl v i n y l e t h e r / m a l e i c ( G a n t r e z V-215)

acid

Part C: Fragrance

0.30

Procedure: M i x A u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add B,

m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add C .

F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0251 s u g g e s t e d by I S P SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.:

16.00

Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Section VII Insect Repellents

3 72

Insect Repellents

373

Insect Repellent Cream O/W C u t i n a MO S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2SM Eumulgin 82 C e t i o l LC Repel 1e n t 790 I 1 V i s c o n t r a n MHPC 6000 2% s o l u t i o n T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Water N o t e : A v o i d c o n t a c t w i t h eyes and mucous membranes Formula No. 111-01 I

%Wl& 8.0 8.0 1.o 5.0 10.0 5.0

1.o

62.0

Insect Repellent Cream O/W C u t i n a MO S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2SM Eurnulgin B 1 Eumulgin 82 Cetiol V Repel 1e n t o i 1 2B432C I 1 V i s c o n t r a n HEC 30 0 0 0 PR-4% s o l u t i o n I11 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e Water N o t e : A v o i d c o n t a c t w i t h eyes and mucous membranes Formula No. 111-02 I

Insect Repellent Emulsion O/W, Liquid

I

C u t i n a MO S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2SM Eumulgin B1 Eumulgin 82 Cetiol V Repel l e n t 790 I 1 Veegum T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Water N o t e : A v o i d c o n t a c t w i t h eyes and mucous membranes Formula No. 121-01

%WfW 12.0 4.0 1.5 1.5 5.0 10.0 37.4 0.2 28.4

“NLW 2.5 3.0 1.5 1.5 5.0 10.0 2.5 0.2 73.8

Insect Repellent Oil, Alcoholic Eutanol G P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous C e t i o l HE Repel 1e n t 790 E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% N o t e : A v o i d c o n t a c t w i t h eyes and mucous membranes Formula 131-01

SOURCE: Henkel K G a A :

Cosmetic Model Formulae

10.0 20.0 10.0

374

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Insect Repellent Stick

%NAY

Eutanol G 10.0 Comperlan 1 0 0 8.0 S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2SM 9.3 Menthol 2.0 Dimethyl p h t h a l a t e 30.0 Isopropyl alcohol 24.0 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 13.2 Sodi um h y d r o x i de s o l u t i on 38% 3.5 P r e p a r a t i o n : E u t a n o l G , Comperlan 100, S i e g e r t S t e a r i n , d i m e t h y l p h t h a l a t e and i s o p r o p y l a l c o h o l a r e h e a t e d on t h e w a t e r b a t h a t 70C u n t i l t h e Comperlan has m e l t e d . T o g e t h e r w i t h t h e sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n , t h e g l y c e r i n e i s a l s o h e a t e d t o 70C and added t o t h e a l c o h o l i c f a t m e l t . The compond i s t h e n c a s t i n t o moulds, i t s o l i d i f i e s i n a few m i n u t e s and can be t a k e n o u t o f t h e mould b e f o r e i t c o m p l e t e l y c o o l s . I t i s a d v i s a b l e t o work w i t h a s l i g h t excess o f a l c o h o l . The amount i s a p p r o x . 10% i n t h e case o f s m a l l b a t c h e s , w h i l s t i n t h e case o f l a r g e r ones, c o r r e s p o n d i n g l y 1 ess N o t e : Max. pH 1 1 Formula N o . 141-01

.

Insect Repellent Stick

%W / w

L a n e t t e 18 12.0 Eutanol G 5.0 Comperlan HS 25.0 Carnauba wax 3.0 Hard p a r a f f i n 72C 12.0 E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% 10.0 Repel 1e n t o i 1 28432C 33.0 P r e p a r a t i o n : L a n e t t e 18, E u t a n o l G, Comperlan HS, Carnauba wax and h a r d p a r a f f i n a r e m e l t e d on t h e w a t e r b a t h . E t h y l a l c o h o l and r e p e l l e n t o i l a r e mixed t o g e t h e r and h e a t e d t o 70C. A f t e r t h e f a t m e l t has a l s o c o o l e d down t o 70C, t h i s m i x t u r e i s s l o w l y s t i r r e d i n t o i t and t h e n c a s t i n m o u l d s . The compound s o l i d i f i e s i n a few m i n u t e s . The s t i c k s can be t a k e n o u t o f t h e mould b e f o r e t h e y have c o m p l e t e l y c o o l e d down. N o t e : A v o i d c o n t a c t w i t h eyes and mucous membranes F o r m u l a No. 141-02

Insect Repellent Spray, Aerosol-Packed Repellent o Eutanol G Ethyl or i s F i l l i n g : 50 50 Note: Avoid F o r m u l a No.

SOURCE:

1 28432

%W/W 20 0

c

propyl alcohol parts active ingredient concentrate p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t 12/114 ( 4 0 : 6 0 ) c o n t a c t w i t h eyes and mucous membranes 171-01

Henkel KGaA:

Cosmetic Model Formulae

40.0 40.0

Section Vlll Lotions

375

376

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion Rich emulsion c o n t a i n i n g alpha hydroxy a c i d t o g e n t l y e x f o l i a t e and r e j u v e n a t e t h e s k i n . E x t r a m i l d n e s s . Inaredients: 1 . G r i l l o c o s e PS ( M e t h y l G l u c o s e Sesquistearate) 2 . Behenyl A l c o h o l ( L a n e t t e 22) 3 . M i n e r a l O i l 9NF 4 . O c t y l O c t a n o a t e ( T e g o s o f t EE) 5 . * G r i l l o t e n LSE 65K ( S u c r o s e C o c o a t e )

%w/w

Function

3.00 3.00 7.50 7.50 2.00

6 . Sodium C e t e a r y l S u l f a t e ( L a n e t t e E )

0.10

Emu1 s i f ie r Thickener Emol 1ie n t Emollient Emulsifier/ Emol 1 ie n t Emulsifier/ C l e a n i ng Humectant Thickener

7. Glycerine 8 . Xanthan Gum ( K e l t r o l G-T) 9 . O i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 1 0 . P a t l a c LA ( L a c t i c A c i d , 88%) 11.Sodium H y d r o x i d e (20% S o l n . ) 12. G l ydant 1 3 . F r a g r a n c e - N a t u r e ' s H e r b a l #165-050

*

3.00 0.40 62.70 5.60 5.00 q.s.

0.20

----

Hydroxy A c i d pH A d j u s t e r Preservative Odor

S u b s t i t u t i o n w i t h R i t a l a n C and N a t u r a l E x t r a c t OP i s b e i n g investigated.

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : A d d P a t l a c LA t o 10% w a t e r and a d j u s t pH w i t h Sodium H y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n t o 3 . 8 . I n r e m a i n i n g w a t e r , d i s s o l v e i t e m 8 . Add i t e m s 6 and 7 and h e a t t o 80C. S e p a r a t e l y h e a t i t e m s 1-5 t o 80C. Add i t e m s 1 - 5 t o i t e m s 6 - 9 and m i x . W h i l e m i x i n g c o o l t o 45C and add i t e m s 12 and 1 3 . A t 40C add p r e p a r e d L a c t i c A c i d s o l u t i o n ( p H 3 . 8 ) and homogenize Ref No. 119-11 Light Hand Lotion Ingredients: 1 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 2 . P a t i o n i c SSL (Sodium S t e a r o y l L a c t ylate) 3. R i t a IPP ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 4. O i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 5 . Propylene Glycol 6. Fragrance 7. Glydant

%w/w 3.50 1.40 1.30 88.50 5.00 0.10

0.20

Function Emulsifier M i ldness Emol 1 ie n t

----

Humectant Odor Preservative

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1-3 and h e a t t o 70C. Combine i t e m s 4 and 5 and h e a t t o 70C. Add o i l phase t o w a t e r phase and m i x w e l l . Cool t o 40C and add f r a g r a n c e / d y e s / p r e s e r v a t i v e s . R e f . N o . 119-92

SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:

S k i n Care F o r m u l a r y

Lotions

377

Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion Rich emulsion c o n t a i n i n g alpha hydroxy a c i d t o g e n t l y e x f o l i a t e and r e j u v e n a t e t h e s k i n . I n a r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: 1 . G r i l l o c o s e PS ( M e t h y l G l u c o s e Sesquistearate) 2 . Behenyl A l c o h o l ( L a n e t t e 22) 3 . M i n e r a l O i l 9NF 4. Isopropyl P a l m i t a t e 5 . Sodium C e t e a r y l S u l f a t e ( L a n e t t e E ) 6. Glycerine 7 . Xanthan Gum ( K e l t r o l G-T) 8 . D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water 9 . P a t l a c LA ( L a c t i c A c i d 88%) 10.Sodium H y d r o x i d e (20% S o l n . ) 1 1 . G1 y d a n t 1 2 . F r a g r a n c e - N a t u r e ’ s H e r b a l #165-050

%w/w

Function

3.00 3.00 7.50 7.50 0.10

Emul s i f ie r Thickener €mol 1 i e n t Emoll ie n t Emul s i f ie r , C1 e a n i ng Humectant Thickener

3.00 0.40 64.70 5.60 5.00 q.s. 0.20

----

Hydroxy A c i d pH A d j u s t e r Preservative Odor

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Add P a t l a c LA t o 10% w a t e r and a d j u s t pH w i t h Sodium H y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n t o 3 . 8 . I n r e m a i n i n g w a t e r , d i s s o l v e i t e m 7 . Add i t e m s 5 and 6 and h e a t t o 80C. S e p a r a t e l y h e a t i t e m s 1 - 4 t o 80C. Add i t e m s 1 - 4 t o i t e m s 5 - 8 and m i x . W h i l e m i x i n g , c o o l t o 45C and add i t e m s 11 and 1 2 . A t 40C add p r e p a r e d L a c t i c A c i d s o l u t i o n (pH 3 . 8 ) and homogenize. R e f . No. 119-18B Hand and Body Lotion A l l o v e r hand and body l o t i o n w i t h e x c e l l e n t f e e l and moisturizing benefits.

Inaredients: 1. Mineral O i l 2. Petrolatum 3 . R i t a w a x ALA ( R . I . T . A . Blend) 4. R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n Alcohol ) 5 . R i t a p r o 165 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 6 . P o l y q u t a 3000 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 7 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 8. Glycerine 9 . F r a g r a n c e - Eau Sauvage 169-118 10.Glydant

%w/w 5.00 4.00 6.00

4.00 5.00 0.50 69.10 6.00 0.20 0.20

Function Emol 1 ie n t Emol 1 ie n t Skin Feel Rub I n Emul s i f ie r S k i n Feel

----

Moisture Odor Preservative

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s s o l v e P o l y q u t a 3000 i n w a t e r . Add G l y c e r i n e and h e a t t o 70C. S e p a r a t e l y h e a t i t e m s 1-5 t o 70C. Add i t e m s 1-5 t o w a t e r m i x t u r e w h i l e m i x i n g . Cool and add p r e s e r v a t i v e and p e r f u m e . R e f . No. 119-36 SOURCE: R.I.T.A. C o r p . : S k i n Care F o r m u l a r y

378

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Barrier Lotion T h i s b u t t e r y l o t i o n a p p l i e s e a s i l y and p r o t e c t s t h e hands from harsh environments. Inaredient : P a r t A: Dei o n i zed Water G1 y c e r in T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

Weiaht%

Function

75.30 3.00 0 40

D i 1u e n t Humectant N e u t r a l iz i ng Agent

P a r t B: D i m e t h i c o n e , 1000 c s . Pemulen TR-1 Carbopol 954

10.00 0.30 0.20

Barrier Emulsifier Thi ckener

Part C: Mineral O i l

10.00

Barrier

I

P a r t D: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) Propylparaben

(1) Acrylates/ClO-30

0.80

A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer

Preservative (BFGoodrich)

(2) Carbomer ( B F G o o d r i c h ) ( 3 ) D r a k e o l 19 ( P e n r e c o ) ( 4 ) Germaben 1 1 - E ( S u t t o n L a b o r a t o r i e s ) P r e p a r a t l on : 1. Blend P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a vessel which w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e formulation. 2 . P r e p a r e P a r t B i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l by m i x i n g p o l y m e r s i n dimethicone t o produce a f i n e suspension. 3 . W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . P r o m p t l y add P a r t C t o t h e m i x t u r e . M i x t o p r o d u c e a smooth, g l o s s y product. 4 . Add P a r t D and b l e n d t h o r o u g h l y .

SOURCE: BFGoodrich Co. : Formula PO024

Lotions

379

Body Lotion Thick lotion leaving a soft touch M a t e r ia1 /CTFA- I ndex : A : Emulaator E2149/Stearvl A l c o h o l (and) S t e a r e t h - 7 Tegosoft 1 8 9 / I s o o c t a d ~ c y l Isononanoate W a c k e r - B e l s i 1 SM 6 0 1 8 / S t e a r y l M e t h i cone Isopropyl Myri s t a t e

7.00% 1 .oo 2.50 7.00

B: Wacker-Belsil

2.00

C:

DMC 6 0 3 5 / M e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l A c e t a t e

C a r b o p o l 934 2%ig/Carbomer 934 Water Preservatives,

fragrances,

15.00 65.50

pigments

Heat A and C each t o 70C. M i x C well

q.s. i n t o A,

add B.

F o r m u l a t i o n 1326 AH Body Lotion White, creamy lotion which dissolves easily

M a t e r i a1 / C T F A - I n d e x : A: M i n e r a l O i l . t h i n l y l i a u i d Stearic acid Cetyl Alcohol B : Water

A1 1 a n t o i n / 5 - U r e i d o - h y d a n t o i n Triethanolamine

C:

Propylene Glycol W a c k e r - B e l s i l DMC 6 0 3 5 / M e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l A c e t a t e Preservative,

Perfume, C o l o u r i n g s

5.00% 5.00 1 .50

81 . 2 0 0.50 0.80 3.00 3.00 q.s

Heat A and B t o 65C. Add A t o B w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add C and s t i r u n t i l cool. F o r m u l a t i o n 1225/7 AH

SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

380

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Body Lotion Thick lotion with good absorption leaving a soft touch skin.

M a t e r i a1 /CTFA-Index: A : Emulgator E2149/Stearyl Alcohol (and) Steareth-7 Tegosoft 189/Isooctadecyl Isononanoate W a c k e r - B e l s i l SDM 6 0 2 2 / D i m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) S t e a r o x y D i m e t h y l s i l a n e (and) Stearoxy D i m e t h y l d i s i l o x a n e Isopropyl Myristate B: W a c k e r - B e l s i 1 DMC 6 0 3 8 / D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l C a r b o p o l 934 Z%ig/Carbomer 934 Triethanolamine 2%ig Water Preservatives, fragrances,

pigments

on

the

7.00% 1.oo 2.50 7.00

3.00 5.00 5.00 69.50 q.s.

Heat A and B each t o 70C. M i x B w e l l i n t o A . F o r m u l a t i o n 1337 A H Skin Lotion Thin lotion with good spreadability and quick absorption M a t e r i a1 /CTFA- I ndex : A: S t e a r i c A c i d C e t y l A 1 coho1

2 . 80% 1 .oo

6: Glycerine W a c k e r - B e l s i 1 DMC 6 0 3 8 / D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l Triethanolamine Wasser d e s t . / W a t e r Preservatives, fragrances,

pigments

H e a t A and B t o 80C, s t i r A i n t o 8 . F o r m u l a t i o n 1336 AH SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

2.00 4.00 0.80 89.40

q.s.

Lotions

381

Body Lotion Thick lotion. Easily spread, quickly absorbed and leaves a pleasant soft feeling on the skin. Material/CTFA-Index: A : Emulgator E 2155/ S t ea r yl A l c o h o l ( a n d ) S t e a r e t h and Steareth-IO Isopropyl Myris t a t e Stearyl Alcohol Mineral o i l B e l s i l DM lOO/Dimethicone B: G l y c e r i n e Wasser d e s t . / W a t e r Preservatives, fragrances, pigments Heat A and B t o 65C, m i x and homogenise, c o o l w h i l s t s t i rring. T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 1 0 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 153 AH

6.00% 10.00 1 .oo 3.00 0.50 3.00 76.00 q.s.

Body Lotion Easily spread, quickly absorbed. Material/CTFA-Index: A: B e l s i l PDM 200/Phenyl D i m e t h i c o n e Stearic Acid Cetyl Alcohol B: Glycerine Triethanolamine Wasser d e s t . / W a t e r Preservatives, fragrances, pigments Heat A and B each t o 80C, s t i r A i n t o B . F o r m u l a t i o n 1 8 7 / 4 AH

.

3 60% 2.80 1 .oo 2

.oo

0.80 89.80 9,s.

Hand Lotion White, thick lotion. Does not feel greasy Mat e r i a 1/CT FA - In d ex: Water 7 9 . 40% C a r b o p o l 934/Carbomer 934 0.40 Mineral o i 1 , low v i s c o s i t y 10.00 B e l s i l DM 35O/Dimethicone 10.00 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 0.20 P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume q.s M i x t h e Carbomer 934 s l o w l y i n t o t h e w a t e r u n t i l a homogeneous m i x t u r e i s f o r m e d . M i x t h e m i n e r a l o i l and B e l s i l DM 3 5 0 and add w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . F i n a l l y s t i r i n t h e t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . Temperature s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 1 0 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 188 AH SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

382

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Body Lotion Thick lotion. Leaves a soft feeling on the skin M a t e r i a1 /CTFA- Index : A : Emulgator E 2149/Stearyl Alcohol (and) S t e a r e t h Tegosoft 189/Isooctadecyl Isononanoate B e l s i l SDM 6OZZ/Dimethicone ( a n d ) S t e a r o x y D i m e t h y l s i l a n e (and) Stearoxy D i m e t h y l d i s i loxane Isopropyl Myri s t a t e B e l s i l DMC 6 0 3 5 / D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l A c e t a t e

7.00% 1 .oo 2.50 7.00 2.00

15.00 65.50

B: C a r b o p o l 934 2%ig/Carbomer 934 Water Preservatives, pigments, fragrances

q.5.

H e a t A and B each t o 70C. S t i r B w e l l i n t o A T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C 8 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 360 AH Hand Lotion Very greasy, but well absorbed. Good water-repellent effect. wrial/CTFA-IndexL A : P o l y e t h y l e n g l y k o l 400/PEG-8 Isopropyl Myri s t a t e Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid

2.00% 3.00 1.oo 2.00

0.50 4.50 2.00 65.00

B : T r i s A m i no/Tromethami n e Propylene G1ycol Glycerine Water

C: B e l s i l CM l O O O / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a . )

Dimethiconol

P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume, pigments Heat A and B t o a p p r o x . 6 5 C . S t i r B i n t o A , until cool. F o r m u l a t i o n 359 A H

SOURCE:

Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

20.00 q.s.

add C and s t i r

Lotions

383

Body Lotion W h i t e l o t i o n w i t h l o w v i s c o s i t y . Leaves a s o f t f e e l i n g on the skin. Material/CTFA-Index: A : Water Carbopol 934/Carbomer

~4.509~ 0.10

934

8 : Glycerine

C:

Triethanolamine

3.00 0.90

Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid A r l a c e l 1 6 5 / G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e se

I .oo 0.80 1 .50

D: I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e D i is o p r o p y l a d i p a t Mineral O i l (low v i s c o s i t y ) E:

1 .50 1 .50 2.00

B e l s i l CM l O O O / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a . )

Dimethiconol

P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume, pigments

3.00 4.S.

M i x A and h e a t t o 75C, add 8 . Heat C t o 72C a n d s t i r s l o w l y i n t o AB, H e a t D t o 72C and s t i r s l o w l y i n t o ABC, a d d E and s t i r unt il cool. T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C more t h a n 1 0 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 625 AH Body Lotion

Material/CTFA-Index: A: M i n e r a l O i l ( h i g h v i s c o s i t y ) Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid B e l s i l CM 0 3 0 / C v c l o m e t h i c o n e B e l s i 1 SDM 6022)Dimethicone ( a n d ) S t e a r o x y D i m e t h y l s i l a n e (and) Stearoxy D i m e t h y l d i s i loxane B e l s i l BN / B o r o n N i t r i d e

3.00 2.00 0.80 3.00 82.70

6 : T r i e t h a n o ami n e P r o p y l e n e G1y c o l Water

Preservat ves, fragrances,

1 .OO% 1.oo 1 .50 5.00

pigments

q.s.

H e a t A and B t o 80C. S t i r A i n t o B, m i x w e l l . Cool w h i l s t stirring. Temperature s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. Formul a t io n 775AH

SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

384

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Body Lotion Inaredients: ! i Phase A : 64.80 H20, D e i o n i z e d 0.20 C a r b o p o l 934 3.00 H e t o x i d e G-7 ( G l y c e r e t h - 7 ) Phase 8 : H e s t MS ( M y r i s t y l S t e a r a t e ) 3.00 6.00 P r o d u c t SE-100 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e & PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) H e s t L-2-0 ( L a u r e t h - 2 O c t a n o a t e ) 10.00 Stearic Acid 5.00 Phase C : TEA 99% 2.00 H20, D e i o n i z e d 5.00 Phase D : Germaben I 1 1 .oo Specifications: pH: 7 . 0 0 V i s c o s i t y # 4 / 3 0 : 8000 c p s Procedure: 1 ) I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e , add H20. D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l 934 u s i n g L i g h t n i n ' t y p e m i x e r . Add H e t o x i d e G-7 and h e a t t o 75C while mixing. 2 ) I n a s e p a r a t e s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e , combine Phase A and h e a t t o 75C w h i l e m i x i n g . 3 ) Add Phase B t o Phase A . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 4 ) P r e m i x Phase C and add t o b a t c h . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m , a v o i d i n g aeration. 6 ) Cool t o 45C w h i l e m i x i n g . 6 ) Add Phase D . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . F o r m u l a HL 93-111 Moisture Lotion Inaredients: % Phase A : H20, D e i o n i z e d 76.00 Phase B : H e s t G-7-TO ( G l y c e r e t h - 7 T r i o c t a n o a t e ) 5.00 Hest IS-2-0 ( I s o s t e a r e t h - 2 Octanoate) 5.00 H e t o l CS ( C e t e a r y l A1 coho1 ) 5.00 H e t o x o l L-12 ( L a u r e t h - 1 2 ) 3.00 5.00 P r o d u c t SE-100 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e & PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) Phase C : Germaben I 1 1.00 Specifications: pH: 7 . 0 5 V i s c o s i t y #4/30: 9000 c p s . Procedure: 1 ) I n s e p a r a t e s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e s , add Phase A and Phase B and h e a t t o 75C w h i l e m i x i n g . 2 ) A t 75C, add Phase B t o Phase A w h i l e m i x i n g u n t i l homogeneous. 3 ) Cool t o 40C and add Phase C . M i x w e l l . F o r m u l a HL 93-120-5

SOURCE:

Heterene, I n c . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Lotions

385

Cationic Conditioning Lotion T h i s novel f o r m u l a t i o n m o i s t u r i z e s w h i l e i m p a r t i n g a s o f t , velvety feel t o the skin. Insredi ent: Part A: Dei o n i zed Water Glycerin T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

Wei q h t %

90.30 2.00

0.30

Distearyldimonium Chloride (1)

0.10

Part B: Isopropyl Palmitate White Petrolatum

2.50 1.00

Octyl Hydroxystearate ( 2 ) Glycol Stearate D i m e t h i cone ( 1 0 0 c s . ) Pemulen TR-1

1 00 1 .OO 0.50 0.40

.

P a r t C: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) Propylparaben (4)

0.90

Function D i 1u e n t Humectant N e u t r a l iz i n g Agent Conditioner

Emoll i e n t Moisture Barrier €mol 1 i e n t Opaci f i e r Lubricant Emu1 s i f i e r / S t a b i 1 iz e r

P r e s e r v a t i ve

( 1 ) A r o s u r f TA-100 (Sherex C h e m i c a l ) ( 2 ) Wickenol 171 (CasChem) ( 3 ) A c r y l a t e s / C l O - 3 0 A l k y l A c r y l a t e C r o s s p o l y m e r (BFGoodrich) ( 4 ) Germaben I I E ( S u t t o n L a b o r a t o r i e s ) Preparation: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e f o r m u l a t i o n . W i t h m i x i n g , h e a t t o 60C. 2 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , combine a l l P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t Pemulen. Heat t o 60C. 3 . When a l l P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s have m e l t e d , r e c o n f i r m t e m p e r a t u r e and add Pemulen. Use a g i t a t i o n t o b r e a k - u p any s o f t agglome r a t e s o f r e s i n. 4 . W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . C o n t i n u e m i x i ng t o p r o d u c e a smooth emu1 s i on 5 . A t 45-50C, add P a r t C . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g . F i l l c o n t a i n e r s @ 35C. I

SOURCE: B F G o o d r i c h C o . : Formula PO021

386

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cationic Conditioning Lotion Wei Q h t %

InQredient: P a r t A: D e i o n i z e d Water G1 y c e r i n T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99%

80.00 2.00 0.30

Distearyldimonium Chloride (1) P a r t B: Hydroxypropyl Methyl C e l l u l o s e ( 2 ) O e i o n i zed Water

0.10 0.10 10.00

F u n c t ion D i 1u e n t Humectant Neutralizing Agent Conditioner F i l m Former D i 1u e n t

P a r t C: Isopropyl Palmitate White Petrolatum Octylhydroxy Stearate (3) Glycol Stearate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Pemulen TR-1 ( 4 )

2.50 1.00 1.oo 1.00 0.50 0.20 0.40

E m o l l ie n t Moisture Barrier Emol 1 ie n t Opacifier Lubricant Bodyi ng Agent Emulsifier/ Stabilizer

P a r t D: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben ( 5 )

0.90

Preservative

(1 ) (2) (3j (4) (5)

A r o s u r f TA-100 ( S h e r e x Chemi c a l ) M e t h o c e l E4M fDow Chemical C o . ) W i c k e n o l 171 (CasChem) A c r y l a t e s / C l O - 3 0 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich) Germaben I I E ( S u t t o n L a b o r a t o r i e s )

Preparation: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e f o r m u l a t i o n . W i t h m i x i n g , h e a t t o 60C. 2 . I n a separat e v e s s e l , d i s p e r s e t h e methocel i n t o a v a i l a b l e d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . G e n t l y warm t o f a c i l i t a t e d i s s o l u t i o n . 3 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , combine a l l o f t h e o i l phase i n g r e d i e n t s ( P a r t C), e x c e p t Pemulen. Heat t o 60C. 4 . When a l l P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s have m e l t e d , r e c o n f i r m tempe r a t u r e and add Pemulen r e s i n . Use a g i t a t i o n t o b r e a k - u p any s o f t a g g l o m e r a t e s o f r e s i n . 5 . W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t C t o P a r t A . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g t o p r o d u c e a smooth e m u l s i o n . 6 . Combine t h e t h i c k e n e d P a r t B t o t h e e m u l s i o n and c o n t i n u e m i x i ng. 7 . A t 45-50C, add P a r t 0 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g , and f i l l c o n t a i n e r s a t 35C. SOURCE: BFGoodrich Co.:

F o r m u l e PO026

Idions

387

Cleansing Lotion, Liquid

"/ow/w Texapon N25 Lamepon S-TR Nutrilan I L a m e s o f t LMG I r g a s a n DP 300 1 , 2 - p r o p y l ene g l y c o l Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e Water

15.0 50.0 10.0 5.0 0.5 2.0 0 5 1 0 16 0

N o t e : Medium v i s c o u s , WAS 19% P r e p a r a t i o n : M i x I r g a s a n DP 3 0 0 and 1 , 2 - p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l u n t 1 you have a c l e a r s o l u t i o n . Add Texapon N25 and t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r g i v e n above. S l i g h t h e a t i n g may be n e c e s s a r y t o c l e a r t h e L a m e s o f t LMG i n t h e s o l u t i o n . F o r m u l a No. L610-22 Cleansing Liquid

"/,WLW

Lamepon S-TR Monomuls 9 0 - L 12 E t h a n o l 96% I r g a s a n DP 300 L a m a c i t GML-20 Perfume Water

58.0 1.o 10.0 0.5 2.0 0.1 28.4

N o t e : Low v i s c o u s , WAS 19% P r e p a r a t i o n : Lamepon S-TR, Monomuls 9 0 - L 1 2 a r e s t i r r e d t o g e t h e r and h e a t e d u n t i l t h e y f o r m a homogenous s o l u t i o n . A f t e r c o o l i n g t o 40C t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s a r e added i n t h e o r d e r shown above. F o r m u l a L610-23 Cleansing Lotion

Wf! Texapon N25 Lamepon S Lamesoft LMG Lamesoft 156 Sodium c h l o r i d e Perfume Water N o t e : Medium v i s c o u s , WAS 19% F o r m u l a No. L610-24 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

37.5 28.0 5.0 5.0 1.7 0.3 22.5

388

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cleansing Lotion, Pearly

"/ow/w Texapon N40 Texapon TH E u p e r l a n PK 7 7 1 Hydagen P Sodium c h l o r i d e Perfume Water N o t e : WAS 17%, low v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. L610-09

20.0 20.0 5.0 2.0 4.0 1 .o 48.0

Cleansing Lotion, Pearly Texapon N40 Texapon EVR E u p e r l a n PK771 Hydagen P Sodium c h l o r i d e Perfume Citric acid Water N o t e : WAS 19%, medium v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. L610-11

"/owm

30.00 30.00 10.00 2.00 0.50 1

.oo

0.05 26.45

Deodorant, Cleansing Lotion, Liquid, Clear

"/owf.W Texapon N40 Dehyton AB30 Hydagen D E 0 Comperlan K D Perfume Water N o t e : WAS 18% F o r m u l a No. L610-13

40.0 5.0 1.5 5.0

0.5 48.0

Cleansing Lotion, Clear, Soap Free, Especially Skin Compatible Texapon K14S s p e c i a1 Comperlan LS Sodium c h l o r i d e S o l u v i t complex Perfume C i t r i c a c i d 1 0% s o l u t i o n Water N o t e : WAS 1 1 % F o r m u l a No. L610-15 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

%Wfly 30.0 3.0 2.0 3.0 1.o 0.4 60.6

Lotions

389

Cleansing Lotion, Pearly, Soap Free, Especially Skin Compatible

%w/w 40.0 2.0 10.0 1.5 1.o 0.8 44.7

Texapon K14S s p e c i a1 Hydagen P E u p e r l a n PK7 6 Sodium c h l o r de Perfume C i t r i c a c i d 0% s o l u t i o n Water N o t e : WAS 15% F o r m u l a No. L610-16

Cleansing Lotion, Pearly, Soap Free, Especially Skin Compatible

%w/w Texapon ASV Dehyton K C u t i n a EGMS Comperlan LS Perfume Water N o t e : WAS 161 F o r m u l a No. L610-18

35.0 15.0

3.0 0.5

0.5 46.0

Cleansing Lotion, Pearly, Soap Free, Especially Skin Compatible %w/W 35.0 15.0 3.0 0.5 46.0

Texapon ASV Dehyton K C u t i n a EGMS Perfume Water N o t e : WAS 15% F o r m u l a No. L610-19 Cleansing Lotion, Cloudy

%w/w Texapon N25 50.0 Lamepon S 20.0 Lamesoft 156 5.0 Monomuls 9 0 - L 12 2.0 Perfume 0.3 Water 22.7 N o t e : H i g h v i s c o u s , t u b e f i l l i n g , WAS 23% P r e p a r a t i o n : Monomuls 90-L 12 i s d i s s o l v e d i n t h e Texapon N25 and Lamepon S w h i l e h e a t i s a p p l i e d . The o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s a r e t h e n added i n t h e o r d e r g i v e n above. F o r m u l a No. L610-21

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA:

Cosmetic

Model F o r m u l a e

390

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Collagen and Cocoa Butter Skin Lotion

%w/w A.

Cetyl Alcohol L a n o l i n , Anhydrous, USP Kessco G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e , p u r e Cocoa B u t t e r Acetulan (Cetyl Acetate (and) Acetylated L a n o l i n A1 coho1 ) Tween 60 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 6 0 ) A r l a c e l 60 ( S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e ) Proto-Lan E* Propylparaben

1.50 1.50 0.50 0.75

2.00 0.50 0.50

1 .oo

0.20

B. Supro-Tein V

TEA-COCOY H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ( a n d ) Sorbi t o 1 ) Methylparaben Glycerin Gelamide 250F (mi 11 e d ) Polyacrylamide) CarboDol 934, 2% Aq. so ' n (Carbomer 934) Deion; zed Water

0.50 0.20 2.50 0.20 15.00 67-70

C . T r i e t h a n o l ami ne-99%

0.45

D . C o l l a g e n N a t i v e E x t r a 1% ( S o l u b l e C o l l a g e n ) Fragrance, c o l o r

5.00 q.s.

* ( L e c i t h i n ( a n d ) B u t y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Cocoyl H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ( a n d ) O l e o y l S a r c o s i n e ( a n d ) Sesame O i l ( a n d ) Lanolin Alcohol) Procedure: P r e - d i s s o l v e Gelamide i n w a t e r phase. Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s t o Phase B and h e a t t o 70C. Heat Phase A s e p a r a t e l y X-----> t o 70C. Heat Phase A s e p a r a t e l y t o 70C. Add Phase B t o Phase A a t 70C. Add t h e TEA, Phase C . M i x and c o o l t o 40C. Add Phase D . M i x t o i n c o r p o r a t e . Properties: A s u p e r b , n o n - g r e a s y , q u i c k p e n e t r a t i n g , s k i n s o f t e n e r and m o i s t u r i z e r . Use f o r hands, f a c e , t h r o a t - w h e r e v e r t r o u b l e s o m e dry skin exists.

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : F o r m u l a #SK-2005

Lotions

391

Conditioning Hand Lotion T h i s l o t i o n m o i s t u r i z e s and s o f t e n s t h e s k i n w i t h o u t l e a v i n g a g r e a s y , heavy f e e l . Wei a h t % 81.0 0.4 2.0 0.1 0.1

P a r t 1: D e i o n i z e d Water Pemulen TR-1 ( 1 ) G1 y c e r i n M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben P a r t 2: White Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate D i m e t h i cone T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

1.o 2.5

2.5 0.3

P a r t 3: Distearyldimonium Chloride (2) D e i o n i z e d Water P a r t 4: Fragrance Color

0.1 10.0 q.s. 9,s.

( 1 ) BFGoodrich Co.

( 2 ) Sherex Chemical Co. ( A r o s u r f TA-100) Procedure: 1 . Combine d e i o n i z e d w a t e r , g l y c e r i n and parabens. W i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n , s i f t t h e Pemulen TR-1 i n t o t h e w a t e r phase i n g r e d i e n t s . A f t e r t h e a d d i t i o n o f r e s i n , reduce a g i t a t i o n and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r a p p r o x i m a t e l y 30 m i n u t e s w h i l e h e a t i n g t h e m i x t u r e t o 70C. 2 . Combine t h e o i l phase i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t 2 and h e a t t o 70C w i t h mixing. 3 . Form t h e e m u l s i o n b y s l o w l y a d d i n g t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . A l l o w 15-20 m i n u t e s a d d i t i o n a l mixing time. 4. Disperse t h e Dimethyldimonium c h l o r i d e i n t o t h e a v a i l a b l e w a t e r i n P a r t 3 and add t h i s m i x t u r e t o t h e e m u l s i o n , w i t h mixing. 5 . Add c o l o r , and f r a g r a n c e as needed.

SOURCE: BFGoodrich Co.:

Formula PO014

392

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Dry Skin Care Lotion (Formula 92-0729) P a r t A: D e i o n i z e d Water S o r b i t o l 70% T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) Sodium C h l o r i d e

% BY Weiaht 74 I 4 3

3.00 1.85 0.02

P a r t B: Mineral O i l Petrolatum Lanolin L a n o l in A1 coho1 Stearic Acid C e t y l A l c o h o l N.F. P a r t C: Fragrance,

7.00 3.00

3.00 3.00 2.50 1.75 q.s.

Preservative

Blendins Procedure: Step 1 ( P a r t A ) : Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and add s o r b i t o l , and sodium c h l o r i d e . Heat w i t h m i x i n g t o 70C.

triethanolamine

SteD 2 ( P a r t B ) : Charge " P a r t B" components i n t o a v e s s e l and h e a t w i t h g e n t l e m i x i n g t o 70-75C, b e i n g s u r e t h a t a l l components a r e m e l t e d . SteD 3: When b o t h p a r t s a r e a t 70-75C, add " P a r t B" t o " P a r t A" w i t h good m i x i n g , and m i x f i f t e e n m i n u t e s a t 70C. A f t e r e m u l s i o n i s homogeneous, b e g i n c o o l i n g w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Step 4 ( P a r t C l : A t 40C, add r e m a i n d e r o f components and c o o l w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o 25C. Typical Formulation Properties: Appearance a t 25C: Slightly off-white lotion pH (10%): 7.5-8.0 V i s c o s i t y a t 25C (RVT #5 @ 20 r p m ) : 15,000-20,000 c p s CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Water, m i n e r a l o i 1, p e t r o l a t u m , s o r b i t o 1 , 1 a n o l in, 1 a n o l in alcohol, s t e a r i c acid, triethanolamine, cetyl alcohol, fragrance, p r e s e r v a t i v e , sodium c h l o r i d e .

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s

I%

Specialties:

Formula 92-0729

Lotions

393

Emollient Care Lotion

%w/w Ingredient: 1 C u t i n a FS25 5.0 2 Cetiol B 9.0 3 S i p o l 1618 C50 2.0 4 C u t i n a MD 2.0 5 KOH (20%) 1.75 6 Preservative q.s. 7 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a v i s c o u s , medium w e i g h t O/W s k i n l o t i on. The f i r s t f o u r components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Component 5 i s d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r w h i c h i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e . The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. Formula T S 5 02 Cleansing Lotion Insredi ent: %w/w 8.0 1 Emulgade SE 9.0 2 Cetiol B 4.0 3 C e t i o l MM 0.5 4 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e 345 0.5 5 Natrosol (H.E.C.) q.s. 6 Preservative t o 100.0 7 Water T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a medium w e i g h t O/W s k i n l o t i o n . The f i r s t t h r e e components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Component 5 i s d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r w h i c h i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e . The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase, a l s o a t a b o u t 85C, and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. The C y c l o m e t h i c o n e can t h e n be added. Formula TS 503 Viscous Body Milk Ingredient: %w/w 1 Emulgade SE 7.0 2 C e g e s o f t C24 7.0 3 Novata A B 4.0 4 Preservative q.s. 5 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a v e r y l i g h t O/W s k i n l o t i o n w i t h a viscous consistency. The f i r s t t h r e e components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase, a l s o a t a b o u t 85C, and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. F o r m u l a t i o n T S 505

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S k i n Care P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

394

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Emollient Fluid

%w/w

Inaredient: 1 C u t i n a E24 2 C e t i o l 1414E 3 C u t i n a MD 4 S i p o l 1618 C50 5 Urea 6 Glycerine 7 Preservative 8 Water

2.0 5.0 2.0 2.0 3.0 2.0 q.s. t o 100.0

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a h i g h v i s c o s i t y O/W L o t i o n w i t h good e m o l l i e n c e , and a v e r y p l e a s a n t , l i g h t s k i n f e e l . The f i r s t f i v e components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Components 6 & 7 a r e d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r and h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e as t h e o i l phase. The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. Formula TS 451 Cleansing Lotion Ingredient: 1 C u t i n a E24 2 C e t i o l 1414E 3 Cutina MD 4 S i p o l 1618 C50 5 Urea 6 Glycerine 7 Preservative 8 Water

%w/w 2.0 10.0 2.0 2.0 3.0 2.0 q.s. t o 100.0

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s an O/W l o t i o n w i t h good e m o l l i e n c e , and a v e r y p l e a s a n t s k i n f e e l . The f i r s t f i v e components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Components 6 & 7 a r e d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r and h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e as t h e o i l phase. The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. Formula TS 452

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S k i n Care P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

Lotions

395

Emollient Fluid Inaredient : %w/W 1 E u m u l g i n B2 1.5 5.0 2 M y r i t o l 318 3 Eutanol G 5.0 4.0 4 Novata A0 1.5 5 S i p o l 1618 C50 3.5 6 C u t i n a MD q.s. 7 Preservative 8 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a l i g h t , v i s c o u s O/W l o t i o n , w i t h good emol 1 i ency The f i r s t s i x components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. The w a t e r i s t h e n h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e as t h e o i l phase. The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. Formula TS 461

.

General Hand and Body Lotion %w/w Ingredient: 3.0 1 Generol 122 E25 10.0 2 Eutanol G 3 Novata AB 5.1 4 Monomuls 60-35 5.0 1.1 5 Lorol C16 1.1 6 L o r o l C18 7 P r e s e r v a t ive q.s. 8 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a f a i r l y heavy O/W e m o l i e n t l o t i o n . The f i r s t f i v e components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. The w a t e r i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e a s t h e o i l phase. The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o 35C. Formula TS 485 Hand & Body Lotion %w/w Innredient : 1 G e n e r o l 122 E25 3.0 10.0 2 Eutanol G 3 C e t i o l SB45 5.1 4 Monomuls 60-35 5.0 5 S i p o l 1618 C50 2.2 4.0 6 Dow C o r n i n g 345 F l u i d 7 Preservative q.s. 8 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a l o w v i s c o s i t y O/W e m o l l i e n t l o t i o n . The f i r s t f i v e components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. The w a t e r i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e as t h e o i l phase. The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. The v o l a t i l e 345 F l u i d can now be added and t h e p r o d u c t homogenised. Formula TS 486

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: S k i n Care P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

396

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Emollient Lotion

%w/w A.

Amerchol L-101 ( M i n e r a l O i l ( a n d ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 3.00 Acetulan ( C e t y l Acetate (and) A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n A 1 coho1 ) 2.00 S t e a r i c A c i d T.P. 4.00 M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 15.00 * P r o t o - L a n 4R 2.50 A r l a c e l 165 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) 1 . 5 0

B.

D e i o n i z e d Water G1 y c e r i n T r i e t h a n o l ami ne Methylparaben S o l u l an L-575 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) G l y d a n t (DMDM H y d a n t o i n ) Fragrance, c o l o r

60 40 4.00 2.00 0.20 5.00 0.40 q.s. I

*(Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (and) M i n e r a l O i l (and) H y d r o g e n a t e d L a n o l i n ( a n d ) E m u l s i f y i n g wax N . F . ( a n d ) Myri sty1 Myris t a t e ) Procedure: 1 . H e a t Phases A and B s e p a r a t e l y t o 80C. 2 . Add Phase B t o Phase A a t 80C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . M i x and c o o l t o 40C. 4 . Add Phase C . M i x t o i n c o r p o r a t e . Properties: A water i n o i l emulsion which e x h i b i t s considerable s l i p i n application. Highly emollient w i t h considerable skin softening e f f e c t s . An e f f i c i e n t m o i s t u r i z e r u s i n g t h e o c c l u s i v e n a t u r e o f m i n e r a l o i l t o t r a p m o i s t u r e i n t h e s k i n and t h e h y g r o s c o p i c a c t i o n o f g l y c e r i n and c o l l a g e n t o a t t r a c t m o i s t u r e t o t h e s k i n . N o t e : A d d i t i o n o f 2-3% C o l l a g e n N a t i v e E x t r a 1% ( S o l u b l e C o l l agen) makes t h i s an e x c e l l e n t n u t r i e n t e y e c r e a m .

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : Formula # S K - 2 0 0 3

Lotiom

397

Emollient Lotion A:

D e i o n i z e d Water P e c o s i l WDS-100 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l Phosphate) Carbomer 934 (2% A q . ) Propylene Glycol T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

37.60% 3.00 25.00 5.00 0.70

B: Pelemol GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) Meadowfoam Seed O i l Pelemol I S L ( I s o s t e a r y l L a c t a t e ) Macademia Nut O i l Cetearyl Alcohol P e l emol BB (Behenyl Behenate) D i m e t h i c o n e (5,000 c s ) Pelemol OPG ( O c t y l P e l a r g o n a t e )

2.00

C : Germaben I 1

1-00

4.00 7.20

2.00 2.00 0.50 2.00 8.00

Procedure: H e a t phase A t o 70-75C. Heat phase B t o 70-75C. A g i t a t e b o t h phase A and B u n t i l u n i f o r m . Under h o m o g e n i z a t i o n add phase B t o phase A . When u n i f o r m , change t o p r o p . a g i t a t i o n and c o o l t o 45C. Add phase C t o AB, and c o n t i n u e p r o p . a g i t a t i o n t o 35C. F o r m u l a 14-110-A

Light Body Lotion (Cold Mix) A:

D e i o n i z e d Water Pecosi 1 PS-100 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l Phosphate) C a r b o p o l 934 ( 2 % A s . )

50.10% 3.00 25.00

8:

Pelemol ICE ( I s o c e t y l Behenate) Pelemol EE ( E i c o s y l E r u c a t e )

10.00 10.00

C : T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

0.90

D : Germaben I 1

1.oo

Procedure: Combine phase A w i t h sweep a g i t a t i o n . Combine phase B . Under h o m o g e n i z a t i o n , add phase B t o phase A . When u n i f o r m , s w i t c h t o p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n and add phase C t h e n phase D . Formula 14-115-A

SOURCE: Phoeni x Chemi c a l

,

I n c : Suggested Formul a t ions I

398

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Emollient Lotion

A

Propylene Glycol D e i o n i zed Water Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e Xanthan Gum

5.00% 71 .88 0.75 0.25

B

P e c o s i 1 PS-200 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l P h o s p h a t e ) NaOH (Sodium H y d r o x i d e )

3.00 0.12

C

Pelemol GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) Pelemol I S B ( I s o s t e a r y l Behenate) Pelemol 89 ( O c t y l I s o n o n a n o a t e ) Cetearyl Alcohol D i m e t h i c o n e ( 50 00 c s )

5.00 5.00 5.00 2.00 1.00

D

Germaben I 1

1.oo

Procedure: 1. Prewet Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e and Xanthan Gum w i t h t h e P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l . 2 . Homogenize t h i s s l u r r y i n t o phase 4 w a t e r . 3 . When phase A i s u n i f o r m , add phase B t o phase A w i t h sweep a g i t a t i o n and h e a t t o IO-75C. 4 . Heat phase C t o 70-75C w i t h a d e q u a t e a g i t a t i o n . 5 . Homogenize phase i n t o AB. 6 . When u n i f o r m , s w i t c h t o sweep a g i t a t i o n and c o o l t o 45C. 7 . Add phase D and c o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and sweep a g i t a t i o n t o 35C. F o r m u l a 14-111-8 Light Body Lotion

A

D e i o n i z e d Water P e c o s i l PS-100 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l Phosphate) Carbomer 934 (2% A q . ) Xanthan Gum Germaben I 1

B

Pelemol SPO ( C e t y l / S t e a r y l O c t a n o a t e ) P e l emol D I A ( D i is o p r o p y l A d i p a t e )

9.00

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

0.70

-C

67.30% 2.70 10.00 0.30 1 .oo 9.00

Procedure W i t h p r o p . a g i t a t i o n d i s p e r s e Xanthan Gum i n D . I . w a t e r . When u n i f o r m , add r e m a i n d e r o f phase A i t e m s . C o n t i n u e p r o p . a g i t a t i o n w h i l e a d d i n g phase 11 t o phase A . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m t h e n add phase C. A f t e r &, 8, and C a r e combined, homogenize t o o b t a i n f i n i s h e d l o t i o n . F o r m u l a 14-1 06-A

SOURCE: P h o e n i x C h e m i c a l ,

Inc,:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Lotions

399

Face Lotion C e t i o l HE E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Cremogen w i t c h h a z e l e x t r a c t Perfume, w a t e r - s o l u b l e Water F o r m u l a No. 651-01

3.0 25.0 3.0 3.0 0.5 65.5

Herbal Face Lotion

%w/w C e t i o l HE E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% Sedaplant R i c h t e r Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water Formula No. 851-02 Herbal Face Lotion C e t i o l HE E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% Hexaplant R i c h t e r Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Water Formula No. 851-03

2.0 20.0 5.0 3.0 70.0

e 2.0 15.0 5.0 3.0 75.0

Herbal Face Lotion m C e t i o l HE E t h y l A l c o h o l 96% Hexaplant R i c h t e r Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 A1 1a n t o i n Water F o r m u l a N o . 851-04

W 2.0 30.0 5.0 2.0 0.2 60.8

Astringent Tonic C e t i o l HE Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% Cremogen w i t c h h a z e l e x t r a c t Perfume, w a t e r - s o l u b l e V i s c o n t r a n HEC 30 000 PR-2% s o l u t i o n Water Formula No. 851-05

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

3.0 3.0 25.0 10.0 0.3 30.0 28.7

400

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Fragrance Lotion T h i s glossy, w h i t e l o t i o n imparts s l i g h t emolliency from a smooth, g r e a s e 1 e s s a p p l ic a t i o n . Wei a h t %

I n g r e d i e n t (CTFA): P a r t A: Dei o n i zed Water G1 y c e r in Dimethicone Copolyol (1) D i s o d i um EDTA

88.50 4.00 0.30

0.10

Function

D i 1u e n t Humectant Lubricant C h e l a t i n g Agent

P a r t B: C12-15 A l c o h o l s B e n z o a t e ( 2 )

3.00

F r a g r a n c e , N o v i l l e #24093 Oleth-10 ( 3 )

2.00 0.20

Pemulen TR-1 ( 4 ) C a r b o p o l 981 ( 5 )

0.25 0.35

Part C: Aminomethyl P r o p a n o l (95%) ( 6 )

0.50

N e u t r a l iz i n g Agent

P a r t D: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) Propylparaben ( 7 )

0.80

Preservative

Emollient/Fragrance F i x e r P a r t i c l e Size Reduct ion Emu1 s i f ie r Thickener

193 S u r f a c t a n t (Dow C o r n i n g ) F i n s o l v TN ( F i n a t e x ) P r o c o l OA-10 (Protameen C h e m i c a l s ) , B r i j 96 ( I C I ) Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich) ( 5 ) Carbomer ( B F G o o d r i c h ) ( 6 ) AMP-95 (Angus C h e m i c a l ) ( 7 ) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n Labs)

(1) 12) (3) (4)

Preparation: 1 . B l e n d P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i 11 c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e formulation. 2 . B l e n d P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . Pemulen and C a r b o p o l s h o u l d b e s l u r r i e d i n t h i s p h a s e . D i s r u p t any s o f t lumps o f t h e s e r e s i n s . 3 . W i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x f o r 1 5 - 2 0 m i n u t e s . Add P a r t C and m i x v i g o r o u s l y t o p r o d u c e a g l o s s y , white product. 4. Mix P a r t D i n t o emulsion.

SOURCE:

BFGoodrich C o . :

F o r m u l a PO005

Lotions

401

Fragrance Lotion Ingredients: A. Deionized water Glycerin

% by Wei ght 88.50 4.00

Dimethicone Copolyol Di sodium EDTA 8. C12-15 Alcohols Benzoate Fragrance, N e v i l l e #24093 Oleth-10 Pemulen TR-1 Carbopol 981 C. AMP-95 D. Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben

0.30 0.10 3.00 2.00 0.20 0.25 0.35 0.50 0.80

Procedure: 1. Blend Part A ingredients in a vessel which w i l l contain the entire formulation. 2. Blend Part B ingredients in a separate vessel. Pemulen and Carbopol should be slurried in this phase. Disrupt any soft lumps of these resins. 3. With moderate agitation, add Part B to Part A. Mix for 15-20 minutes. Add Part C and mix vigorously to produce a glossy, white product. 4. Mix Part D into emulsion. Formulation PF-0223 suggested by B.F.Goodrich Emollient Lotion Ingredi ents: % by Weight Part A: Water 83.80 Part B: Tromethamine magnesium a l u m i n u m silicate (Veegum Pro) 1.50 Part C: Triethanolamine 0.10 Glycerin 3.50 Part D: Mineral Oil 3.60 Petrolatum 0.40 Stearic Acid XXX 1.60 Cetyl alcohol 1 .50 Glyceryl stearate SE 1.40 Cetyl acetate (and) acetylated l a n o l i n alcohol 2.00 Dimethicone 0.60 Part E: Preservative, dye, fragrance q.s.

Procedure: Heat A to 70-75C; slowly add B while agitating at maximum available shear. Mix until smooth. Add C to AB with slow agitation until uniform. Maintain at 70-75C. Heat to 75-80C. Add D to ABC; mix until cool. Add E; package. Formulation PF-0273 suggested by Vanderbilt SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus Product Formulary

402

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Gentle Cleansing Lotion A g e n t l e , non-greasy c l e a n s e r d e s i g n e d t o e f f e c t i v e l y d i s s o l v e makeup and i m p u r i t i e s w i t h o u t d i s t u r b i n g t h e s k i n ' s n a t u r a l m o i s t u r e b a l a n c e . Leaves s k i n f e e l i n g t h o r o u g h l y c l e a n s e d , s u p p l e and m o i s t u r i z e d . I d e a l f o r d r y o r s e n s i t i v e s k i n . I n a r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: % by Weiaht A : D e i o n i z e d Water 76.31 Sodi u m PCA/Aj idew N - 5 0 0.50 T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA/Hamp-ene 220 0.05 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 2.00 Methylparaben 0.20 TEA-Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e / A m i s o f t CT-12 10.00 PEG-40 H y d r o g e n a t e d - C a s t o r O i l / C r e m o p h o r RH-40 1.oo PEG-I50 D i s t e a r a t e / L i p o p e g 6 0 0 0 D S 1.00 PEG-78 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e / V a r i o n i c L I - 6 7 1.50 8 : G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE/Lexemul 55SE 2.50 G l y c o l S t e a r a t e / L e x e m u l EGMS 1.oo Cetearyl Alcohol/Lanette 0 3.60 Propylparaben 0.10 C : I m i d a z o l i d i n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l 115 0.20 D : Fragrance/Manheimer #137G 0.04 Manufacturing Procedure: Heat Phase A t o 75C. Heat Phase 8 t o 75C. Add Phase B t o Phase A w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s a t 75C. S t a r t c o o l i n g . A t 5 0 C , add Phase C . A t 40C, add Phase D . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 30C. Appearance: Opaque, w h i t e l o t i o n PH: 5 . 2 0 - 5 . 6 0 V i s c o s i t y : 1,700 t o 2,500 c p s (LVT #3 @ 12 rpm @ 25C)

Milk Lotion ( 0 ) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C) Cetyl Alcohol Sorbitan Monostearate Polyoxyethylene ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n Monooleate Tocopherol Acetate (W) A j i d e w T - 5 0 Water Preservative Procedure: 1 . Heat ( 0 ) and (W) t o 80C. 2 . Add W) t o ( 0 ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Cool t o 42C w i t h s t i r r i n g . pH: 6 . 2 V i s c o s i t y : 25,000 c p s

SOURCE: A j nomoto USA,

I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

31 . 6 w t % 4.5 4.5 1.8 2.8 0.2 4.0 50.5 0.1

Lotions

403

Hand Lotion Thick white lotion. Absorbs well, is not greasy M a t e r i a1 /CTFA-Index: A: M i n e r a l O i l Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid B e l s i 1 CM 030/Cyclornethicone B e l s i l SDM 6 0 2 2 / D i m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) S t e a r o x y D i m e t h y l s i l a n e (and) Stearoxy D i m e t h y l d i s i loxane

23.00

B: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Wasser d e s t . / W a t e r P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume

0.80 3.00 84.70 q.s.

1 .OO% 1 .oo

1 .50 5.00

Heat A a n d B each t o 85C, s t i r A i n t o B, c o o l w h i l s t stirring. T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 1 0 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 132 AH Hand Lotion Thick, white lotion. Easily spread, quickly absorbed. Material/CTFA-Index: A : B e l s i l SDM 6 0 2 2 / D i m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) S t e a r o x y D i m e t h y l s i l a n e (and) Stearoxy D i m e t h y l d i s i loxane Oleic Acid

B : Morpho1 i n e Wasser d e s t . /Water C: C a r b o p o l 934 L s g 2%isg/Carbomer 934 P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume

4.00% 1S O

0.30 89.20 5.00 q.s

Heat A and B t o 60C, m i x t o g e t h e r w h i l s t s t i r r i n g q u i c k l y . M i x C t o AB a t 45C u n d e r h i g h s h e a r c o n d i t i o n s . F i l l a t o v e r 40C. T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : 8 weeks a t 45C. F o r m u l a t i o n 1 5 6 AH SOURCE:

Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

404

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hand Lotion M a t e r i a1 /CTFA-I ndex : 78,30% Water C a r b o p o l 934/Carbomer 934 0.40 Mineral O i 1 (high v i s c o s i t y ) a . 50 B e l s i l CM lOOO/Cyclomethicone(a.)Dimethiconol 11 .50 T r i s A m i no/Tromethami ne 0.20 P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume, pigments q.s. Add C a r b o p o l 934 t o w a t e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add t h e o t h e r ingredients i n t h i s order. T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C 8 weeks. SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : F o r m u l a t i o n 3 4 0 AH Gentle Cleansing Lotion A g e n t l e , non-greasy c l e a n s e r d e s ig n e d t o e f f e c t i v e l y d i s s o l v e makeup and i m p u r i t i e s w i t h o u t d i s t u r b i n g t h e s k i n ' s n a t u r a l m o i s t u r e b a l a n c e , Leaves s k i n f e e l in g t h o r o u g h l y c l e a n s e d , s u p p l e and m o i s t u r i z e d . I d e a l f o r d r y o r s e n s i t i v e s k i n . % bv W t _ Ing _r e_ d i_ e n_ t s / T r a d e Name 76.31 A) D e i o n i z e d Water 0.50 Sodi um PCA/Aj i dew N-50 0.05 T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA/Hamp-ene 220 2.00 P r o o v l ene G1 v c o l 0.20 M e t h y l parabe; 10.00 TEA-Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e / A m i s o f t CT-12 PEG-40 H y d r o g e n a t e d - C a s t o r O i l / C r e m o p h o r RH-40 1.oo PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e / L i p o p e g 6000DS 1 .oo PEG-78 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e / V a r i o n i c L I - 6 7 1.50 B) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE/Lexemul 55SE 2.50 G1 y c o l S t e a r a t e / L e x e m u l EGMS 1 .oo Cetearyl Alcohol/Lanette 0 3.60 Propylparaben 0.10 C) I m i d a z o l i d i n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l 1 1 5 0.20 D) Fragrance/Manheimer #137G 0.04 Manufacturing Procedure: Heat phase A t o 75C. Heat phase B t o 75C. Add phase B t o phase A w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M i x f o r 2 0 m i n u t e s a t 75C. S t a r t c o o l i n g . A t 50C, add phase C . A t 40C, add phase D . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 30C. Appearance: Opaque, w h i t e l o t i o n pH: 5 . 2 0 - 5 . 6 0 V i s c o s i t y : 1 , 7 0 0 t o 2 , 5 0 0 (LVT #3 C 12 rpm @ 25C)

SOURCE:

Ajinomoto USA,

Inc.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Lotions

405

Intensive Treatment Lotion (Formula 91-1101) Water Phase: W-1 Water G l y c e r i n e (99%) Propylene Glycol Cheelox 100 (Dow) ~

?4 Bv W e i g h t

84.25 3.50 0.15 0.10

w-2

C a r b o p o l 934 ( G o o d r i c h )

0.20

w-3

R h o d i g e l EZ

0.15

w-.r

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

1.35

O i l Phase: Drakeol 9 (Penreco) S t e a r i c A c i d TP A1 kamul s EGMS A1 kamuls SPS A1 kamuls GMS C e t y l A l c o h o l NF M i r a s i l DM 300 S o l u l a n 75 ( A m e r c h o l )

3.50 1.50 1.50 1.00 1.oo 1.50 0.20 0.10

Fragrance,

Dye,

Preservative

Q.S.

Blending Procedure: ( 1 ) Combine W - 1 i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 50-55C. ( 2 ) W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , l i g h t l y s i f t W-2 i n t o h e a t e d W-1. C o n t i n u e h e a t i n g s y s t e m t o 75-8OC. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . ( 3 ) W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d W-3 i n t o h e a t e d system. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . ( 4 ) S l o w l y b l e n d W-4 i n t o h e a t e d w a t e r system. The system s h o u l d thicken noticeably with t h i s addition. ( 5 ) I n a s e p a r a t e m i x i n g v e s s e l , combine O i l Phase i n g r e d i e n t s . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , warm t o 75-80C ( a v o i d s c o r c h i n g ) . ( 6 ) W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d t h e h e a t e d O i l Phase i n t o t h e h e a t e d (75-8OC) Water Phase. M i x u n t i l completely uniform. ( 7 ) W i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y c o o l s y s t e m t o 35-40C and add c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e . Typical Formulation Properties Smooth, Opaque L o t i on Appearance A f t e r 24 H r s : % Non V o l a t i l e s : 14.5-16.5 7.5-9.0 pH (10% A q . ) : CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Water, G l y c e r i n e , M i n e r a l O i l , G l y c o l Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, S t e a r i c Acid, Triethanolamine, Cetyl E s t e r s , G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e , D i m e t h i c o n e , Carbomer 934, Xanthan Gum, P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l , PEG-75 L a n o l i n , T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA, F r a g rance, Preservative, Dye(s). SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : F o r m u l a 91-1101

406

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Light Protective Day Lotion I n s r e d ie n t : 1 C u t i n a MD 2 S i p o l 16-18 C50 3 C e t i o l MM 4 Eumulgin B2 5 Eutanol G 6 M y r i t o l 318 7 E u s o l e x 6300 8 Repai r Complex CLR 9 E l a s t i n CLR 10 P r e s e r v a t ive 11 Water

Q%& Jf

3.5 1.5 4.0 1.5 5.0 5.0 0.75 5.0 2.0 q.s.

t o 100.0

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a l i g h t w e i g h t O/W l o t i o n , w i t h a h i g h v i s c o s i t y , w h i c h h e l p s t o p r o t e c t t h e s k i n f r o m h a r m f u l UV Rays, and a l s o a i d s s k i n c e l l r e m o v a l . The f i r s t seven compo n e n t s a r e h e a t e d t o g e t h e r t o 85C. The w a t e r i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e . The o i l phase i s t h e n mixed i n t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. Components e i g h t and n i n e can t h e n b e i n c o r p o r a t e d , and t h e p r o d u c t homogeni s e d . Formula TS 255 Pearlescent Lotion Insredient: 1 C u t i n a E24 2 Cetiol B 3 M y r i t o l 318 4 Monomuls 90 L12 5 S i p o l 1618 C50 6 C e t i o l MM 7 C a r b o p o l 980 8 NaOH (10%) 9 Glycerine 10 Preservative 11 Water

%w/w 5.0 5.0 2.0 5.0 2.0 5.0 0.1 0.4 5.0 q.s. t o 100.0

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a m o d e r a t e l y v i s c o u s O/W s k i n l o t i o n w i t h p e a r l sheen appearance. The f i r s t s i x components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Component 7 i s d i s s o l v e d i n h a l f t h e w a t e r w i t h v i g o r o u s m i x i n g . Components 8 & 9 a r e d i s s o l v e d i n t h e o t h e r h a l f . The t w o h a l v e s o f t h e w a t e r phase a r e added t o g e t h e r and h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e as t h e o i l phase. The o i l phase i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. The p e a r l appearance b e g i n s t o d e v e l o p a f t e r a few hours. F o r m u l a TS 441

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S k i n Care P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

Lotions

407

Low Solids Mild Cationic Lotion The f o l l o w i n g f o r m u l a t i o n i s an i d e a l s t a r t i n g p o i n t f o r f a c e , body, o r baby s k i n m o i s t u r i z e r s . I t i s a l o w s o l i d s ( 7 . 6 7 by w e i g h t ) v e r s i o n o f SC-183 p o s s e s s i n g t h e same f e e l characteristics a p l e a s a n t c u s h i o n y f e e l , no t a c k y w a t e r phase, and a m o i s t rubdown. I t d r i e s more q u i c k l y , w i t h a powdery cationic long lasting a f t e r feel.

-

Part A: % I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS ( B e h e n t r i m o n i u m M e t h o s u l f a t e ( a n d ) 1.17 Cetearyl Alcohol) 1 .oo Polawax ( E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF) 0.33 C r o d a c o l S-95 ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1 .oo Crodamol PMP (PPG-2 M y r i s t y l E t h e r P r o p i o n a t e ) 0.67 Crodamol PTC ( P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a C a p r a t e ) 1 .oo C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l 011 2.00 Snow W h i t e P e t r o l a t u m 0.50 D i m e t h i cone 200SF (350 c p s ) P a r t B: 82.33 Water, d e i o n i z e d 8.00 G l y c e r in Part C: 1.oo Germaben I 1 1.00 H y d r o t r i t i c u m 2000 ( H y d r o l y z e d Whole Wheat P r o t e i n ) Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75C Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t 8 w i t h m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h good m i x i n g . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l t o 45C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l temperature. SOURCE: Croda, I n c . : Formula SC-192-1 Normal Skin Lotion A l i g h t e m o l l i e n t l o t i o n f o r hand, body and f a c i a l u s e . A p p l i e s e a s i l y , spreads on s k i n w i t h o u t d r a g , and i s r a p i d l y absorbed,

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG 100 S t e a r a t e ( I C I , A r l a c e l 165) S t e a r i c A c i d , TP M i n k O i l (Emulan, L i g h t F r a c t i o n ) PEG-5 Soya S t e r o l ( H e n k e l , Generol 122E5) Soy S t e r o l ( H e n k e l , Generol 12 2) 0 . Water C . Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n ) Fragrance

A.

Procedure: Add 75C Phase B t o 75C Phase A v i a p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n S t i r c o o l t o 45C. Add Phase C .

SOURCE:

Emulan,

I n c . : SugOested F o r m u l a t i o n

5.0 1.0 5.0

2.0

1.o 84.8 1.o 0.2

408

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Lubriderm Type Lotion

Wt% 78.10 0.50 3.50 6.00 0.70

D i s t i 1 l e d Water Ritavena 5 S o r b i t o l 70% S o l n . F o r l a n 500 Cetyl Alcohol Mineral O i l Stearic Acid Methylparaben Propylparaben TEA (50%)

8.00 2.00 0.15 0.05 1.00

pH: 7 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : 3835 c p s S t a b i 1 it i e s : Freeze/Thaw: v . s l . sep. a f t e r 1 c y c l e 40F: no change a f t e r 6 weeks I l O F : s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 3 weeks D e s c r i p t i o n o f System: o i 1 / 0 . 5 % R i t a v e n a 5 C e n t r i f u g e R e s u l t s a f t e r 7 M i n I3 1660rpm: v e r y s l i g h t F o r m u l a 111-187 Lubriderm Type Lotion

Wt% 77-60

D i s t i 11 ed Water Ritavena 5 S o r b i t o l 70% S o l n . F o r l a n 500 Cetyl Alcohol Mineral O i l Stearic Acid Methylparaben Propylparaben TEA (50%)

1-00 3.50 6.00 0.70 8.00

2.00 0.15

0.05 1-00

pH: 8 . 0 V i s c o s i t y : 4350 c p s S t a b i 1 it i e s : Freeze/Thaw: no change a f t e r 3 c y c l e s 40F: no change a f t e r 6 weeks l l O F : s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 4 weeks D e s c r i p t i o n o f System: o i l / ? % R i t a v e n a 5 Formula 111-188 SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:

RITAVENA 5 Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Lotions

409

Lubriderm Type Lotion with Ritavena 5 Innredients: %w/w P a r t A: 1 . D i s t i l l e d Water 67.60 3.50 2 . S o r b i t o l 70% S o l u t i o n P a r t B: 3. D i s t i l l e d Water (1OOC) 10.00 4 . Ritavena 5 1-00 Part C: 5 . F o r l a n 500 6.00 0.70 6. R i t a C 7 . M i n e r a l O i l 85/95 8.00 8 . Stearic Acid 2.00 9. Methylparaben 0.15 10.Propylparaben 0.05 P a r t D: 11 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (50%) 1.oo Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat P a r t A and P a r t C t o 165F. Combine w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add P a r t D and m a i n t a i n h e a t f o r 10 m i n u t e s . Premix P a r t B i n a b l e n d e r f o r 2 m i n u t e s . Add t o m i x t u r e . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o 95F. F o r m u l a 111-188

Low Solids Anionic Lotion with Ritavena 5 Ingredients: %w/w P a r t A: 1 . D i s t i l l e d Water (1OOC) 10.00 2 . Ritavena 5 2.00 Part 0: 3 . D i s t i l l e d Water 72.62 4 . Propylene Glycol 5.00 5. R i t a CA 3.00 6. Pationic ISL 2.00 7 . T a u r a n o l 1-78-6 1.25 8. Patlac I L 1-00 9 . P a t l a c NAL 1 .oo 10 . G l y c e r i n 1.oo 1 1 . R i t a p r o 165 0.40 12.Methylparaben 0.15 13,Propylparaben 0.15 Part C: 14.Germall I 1 0.20 1 5 . Perfume 0.10 16. C o l o r 0.03 1 7 . P a t l a c LA (44% S o l u t i o n ) 0.20 Compounding P r o c s d u r e s : Heat P a r t B t o 165F w i t h a g i t a t i o n . M a i n t a i n 165F f o r 10 m i n u t e s . Premix P a r t A i n a b l e n d e r f o r 2 m i n u t e s . Add t o P a r t B. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o 120F. Add P a r t C . Cool t o 95F. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 + - 0 . 2 w i t h P a t l a c LA (44% S o l u t i o n ) F o r m u l a 11 1-201 SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:

RITAVENA 5 Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

410

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Mild Lotion with Amihope % by W e i g h t Inqredients: Phase A : Mineral O i l 5.00 A m i t e r LGOD ( D i - O c t y l d o d e c y l L a u r o y l G l u t a m a t e ) 2.00 Propylene Glycol Stearate 0.50 PEG-5 H y d r o g e n a t e d C a s t o r O i l 1 .50 PEG-5 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e 2.50 B u t y l paraben 0.10 A m i hope-LL 3.00 Phase B : A c y l g l u t a m a t e HS-11 0.30 Carbomer 941 0.20 Sodi um H y d r o x i de 0.08 B u t y l e n e G1 y c o l 5.00 Methylparaben 0.20 Water 79.62 Procedure: D i s s o l v e Carbomer 941 and sodium h y d r o x i d e i n w a t e r f i r s t . Add a l l o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o t h e s o l u t i o n and d i s s o l v e a t 75 t o 8 0 d e g r e e s c e n t i g r a d e . D i s s o l v e Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s a t 80 d e g r e e s c e n t i g r a d e . When b o t h phases a r e a t 80 d e g r e e s C e n t i g r a d e add A t o B w i t h a g i t a tion. Cool down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w h i l e c o n t i n u i n g m i x i n g . T h i s l o t i o n has a smooth f e e l i n g and good s p r e a d a b i l i t y . F o r m u l a No. NON-404 W/O Lotion With Eldew I n q r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: % by W e i g h t Part A: D i - ( C h l o l e s t e r y l , behenyl , o c t y l d o d e c y l ) N - L a u r o y l - L - g l u t a m i c a c i d e s t e r / E l d e w CL-301 2.00 Cetearyl Octanoate 10.00 C1 2 - C l 5 A1 k y l Benzoate 5.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.60 Tocopherol Acetate 0.05 P a r t 8: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Cetyl Dimethicone C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) Hexyl L a u r a t e 5.00 Cetyl Dimethicone 3.00 Part C: Dei o n i zed Water 65.55 Sodi um C h l o r i d e 0.80 G l y c e r i n (99.5%) 5.00 P a r t i a l l y D e a c e t y l a t e d C h i t i n ( 1 .O%)/Marine Dew 2.00 Part D: Methylparaben 0.20 Butylene Glycol 0.80 Procedure: P r e - m e l t P a r t A a t 5 0 d e g r e e s C e n t i g r a d e . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A . P r e - m e l t P a r t D by h e a t i n g t o 50 d e g r e e s C . Add t o P a r t C . S l o w l y add P a r t C and D m i x t u r e t o P a r t s A and B w i t h h i g h shear m i x i ng. SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Lotions

411

Moisturizing Hand and Body Lotion Ingredient: o/,w/w 1 C u t i n a MD 3.5 2 S t e n o l 16-65 1.2 2.0 3 Eumulgin 82 4.5 4 Eutanol G 5 H y g r o p l e x HHG (CLR) 2.0 6 Preservative 9,s. 7 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a l i g h t O/W l o t i o n , w i t h a l o w v i s c o s i t y , which h e l p s t o s t i m u l a t e t h e s k i n ' s n a t u r a l regene r a t i v e powers The f i r s t f o u r components a r e h e a t e d t o g e t h e r t o 85C. Component f i v e i s t h e n added t o t h e w a t e r and t h i s m i x t u r e i s a l s o h e a t e d t o 85C. The o i l phase i s t h e n m i x e d i n t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. Formula TS 116 I

Regenerative Lotion $w/w Ingredient : 1 Emulgade CL s p e c i a l 20.0 2 R e p a i r Complex CLR 10.0 3 Preservative q.s. 4 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a medium w e i g h t O / W cream w h i c h h e l p s t o s t i m u l a t e t h e s k i n ' s n a t u r a l r e g e n e r a t i v e powers. The Emulgade i s added t o t h e w a t e r and t h e m i x t u r e i s h e a t e d t o a b o u t 85C. The Emulgade i s t h e n d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C when t h e R e p a i r Complex can be added. Formula T S 230 Sunflower Oil Body Lotion %w/w Ingredient: 1 Generol 122 E10 9.8 2 Monomuls 60-35 5.0 3 C e t i o l SB45 5.0 4 Sunflower O i l 10.0 5 Henkel G l y c e r i n e 5.0 6 Preservative q.s. 7 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a heavy O/W L o t i o n w h i c h has an a t t r a c t i v e p e a r l sheen appearance. I t i s o f medium c o n s i s t e n c y with a caring skin feel. The f i r s t f o u r components a r e h e a t e d t o g e t h e r t o 85C. Component f i v e i s d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r and t h i s m i x t u r e i s a l s o h e a t e d t o 85C. The o i l phase can t h e n be added t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35c Formula TS 412 9

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S k i n Care P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

412

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisturizing Lotion T h i s l o t i o n e x h i b i t s t h e s o f t f e e l and e m o l l i e n c y o f a t r a d i t i o n a l s t e a r a t e soap f o r m u l a t i o n w i t h o u t t h e g r e a s i n e s s and p o t e n t i a l i r r i t a t i o n . I t i s e a s i l y a b s o r b e d and i s f o r m u l a t e d t o g i v e a pH o f 6. Wei a h t % _____ Function I n a r e d i e n t (CTFA) : P a r t A: D i 1u e n t 72.20 D e i o n i z e d Water Aqueous Smooth10.00 Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (1) ing Aid ( 1 .O% S o l u t i o n ) Humectant 2.00 G1 y c e r in 0.05 C h e l a t i n g Agent D i s o d i um EDTA P a r t B: Moisture Barrier 5.00 P e t r o l a t um Moisture Barrier 3.00 Mineral O i l (2) Emoll i e n t / 2.00 G1 y c o l S t e a r a t e Opacifier Emollient 2.00 I s o s t e a r y l Benzoate ( 3 ) Opaci f ie r 2.00 P a r a f f in Lubricant 0.50 Dimethicone (100 c s . ) Emulsifier/ 0.30 Pemulen TR-1 ( 4 ) S t a b i 1 iz e r P a r t C: N e u t r a l iz "g 0.25 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) Agent P a r t D: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l Urea (and) Methylparaben (and) P r e s e r v a t ve 0.70 Propylparaben ( 5 ) ( 1 ) M e t h o c e l E4M (Dow C h e m i c a l ) ( 2 ) Drakeol 7 (Penreco) i 3 ) Finsolv SB'(Finetex) ( 4 ) A c r y l a t e s / C l O - 3 0 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich) ( 5 ) Germaben I I E ( S u t t o n L a b s ) P r e p a r a t i on : 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. 2 . Combine a l l P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t Pemulen i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . Heat b o t h phases t o 60-65C. 3 . C o n f i r m t h a t P a r t B i s homogeneous and a t t h e s p e c i f i e d t e m p e r a t u r e . Add Pemulen t o t h i s p h a s e . A g i t a t e t o b r e a k up s o f t lumps o f r e s i n . W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , p r o m p t l y add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 60C. 4 . M i x f o r 15-30 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l a smooth, n o n - g r a i n y d i s p e r s i o n i s a p p a r e n t , Add P a r t C ( t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e ) and d i s c o n t i n u e h e a t i n g . C o n t i n u e v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n t o p r o d u c e a smooth product. 5 . When t h e t e m p e r a t u r e f a l l s to 40-45C add P a r t D . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l t h e p r o d u c t t e m p e r a t u r e i s 30-35C. Cease a g i t a t i o n and f i l l c o n t a i n e r s .

SOURCE: BF G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a PO001

Lotions

413

Moisturizing Lotion % bv Weisht Inqredients: Part A: 72.25 Deionized water 10.00 H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( 1 .090 s o l u t i o n ) 2.00 Glycerin 0.05 D i s o d i um EDTA P a r t B: 5.00 Petrolatum 3.00 Mineral O i l 2.00 Glycol Stearate 2.00 I s o s t e a r y l Benzoate 2.00 P a r a f f in 0.50 D i m e t h i c o n e (110 c s . ) 0.30 Pemulen TR-1 P a r t C: 0.20 AMP-95 Part D: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) M e t h y l 0.70 paraben (and) Propylparaben

Procedure: Combine A i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. Combine a l l B i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t Pemulen i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . H e a t b o t h phases t o 60-65C. C o n f i r m t h a t B i s homogeneous and a t t h e s p e c i f i e d t e m p e r a t u r e . Add Pemulen t o t h i s p h a s e . A g i t a t e t o b r e a k - u p s o f t lumps o f r e s i n . W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , p r o m p t l y add B t o A . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 60C. M i x f o r 15-30 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l a smooth n o n - g r a i n y d i s p e r s i on i s a p p a r e n t . Add C and d i s c o n t i nue h e a t i n g . C o n t i n u e v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n t o p r o d u c e a smooth p r o d u c t . When t h e t e m p e r a t u r e f a l l s t o 40-45C add D . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l t h e p r o d u c t t e m p e r a t u r e i s 30-35C. Cease a g i t a t i o n and f i l l containers. SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y : F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0224 s u g g e s t e d b y B . F . G o o d r i c h Body Lotion Material/CTFA-Index: A : Hostacerin WO/Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquiisostearate (and) Beeswax ( a n d ) M i n e r a l O i l ( a n d ) Magnesium S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Aluminum S t e a r a t e B e l s i l CM 1 0 0 0 / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) D i m e t h i c o n o l Isopropyl Palmitate B: Water P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume, pigments Lotion Heat A and B t o 75-8OC. S t i r B i n t o A . T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C 8 weeks.

W/O

SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : F o r m u l a t i o n 813 AH

8.00% 10.00 10.00 72.00 q.s.

414

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisturizing Lotion (Formula 87-0805M) Water Phase: % By Weiqht Propylene Glycol 2.50 Carbopol 934 ( G o o d r i c h ) 0.25 Sodium H y d r o x i d e (50% A q . ) 0.13 D . I. Water 89.47 O i l Phase: 2.00 A1 kamul s MM/M A1 kamul s GMS 1.50 A1 kamul s SS 0.35 Dermalcare N I 1.50 S t e a r i c A c i d TP 2.30 Fragrance, Dye(s), P r e s e r v a t i v e Q.S. B l e n d i n a P r o c e d u r e : Combine P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l and w a t e r and h e a t t o 75-8OC. W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t C a r b o p o l 934 i n t o h e a t e d w a t e r system. Once Carbopol 934 i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d , s l o w l y bTend i n Sodium H y d r o x i d e (50%) s o l u t i o n . I n a s e p a r a t e m i x i n g v e s s e l , combine O i l Phase i n g r e d i e n t s . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , h e a t O i l Phase t o 75-8OC ( a v o i d s c o r c h i n g ) . W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d m o l t e n O i l Phase i n t o h e a t e d Water Phase. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . With smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y c o o l system t o 35-40C and add c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e . Typical Formulation Properties Appearance A f t e r 24 H r s : V i s c o u s , Opaque L o t i o n % Non V o l a t i l e s : 9-1 1

Hand & Body Lotion (Formula 89-0903M) Water Phase: % BY Weipht G1 y c e r i ne 0.50 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 1.20 Versene 100 (Dow) 0.10 .~ D . I. Water 83.20 O i l Phase: A l k a m u l s GMS 2.50 A l k a m u l s LVL 2.00 A1 kamul s MM/M 5.00 C e t y l A l c o h o l NF 2.50 S t e a r i c A c i d TP 3.00 Fragrance, Dye(s), P r e s e r v a t i v e Q.S. B l e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : Combine Water Phase i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 75-8OC. I n a s e p a r a t e m i x i n g v e s s e l , combine O i l Phase i n g r e d i e n t s and, w i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , h e a t t o 75-8OC ( A v o i d S c o r c h i n g ) . W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n s l o w l y b l e n d h e a t e d O i l Phase i n t o h e a t e d Water Phase. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , c o o l t o 40C and b l e n d i n c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , O y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e . Typical Formulation Properties Appearance A f t e r 25 H r s : Opaque L o t i on % Non V o l a t i l e s : 16-18 SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s Q S p e c i a l t i e s : Formulas

Lotions

415

Moisturizing Skin Lotion

O i l Phase: Glucam P-20 B r i t o l 7 (Mineral O i l ) P e l a n AC ( C e t y l A c e t a t e & A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) Pelemol GMS ( G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e ) Phoenate 200 DL (PEG-4 D i l a u r a t e ) Water Phase: Pecogel H-12 (PVP/Polycarbamyl P o l y g l y c o l E s t e r ) Phoenoxol T ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l & C e t e a r e t h 20) DL C a r b o x y p y r r o l i d o n e Water

3.0s 4.59 2.09 1.og 0.59 1o.og 2.09 1 .og 76. Og

Procedure: Heat o i l and w a t e r phases t o 8OC. Add o i l phase t o w a t e r phase a t t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h a g i t a t i o n and c o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n w h i l e c o o l i n g . Perfume and s t a b i l i z e r s can b e added when tempera t u r e c o o l s t o 40C. P a r t o f t h e m i n e r a l o i l can be r e p l a c e d w i t h p e t r o l e u m j e l l y f o r a thicker formulation.

Emollient Skin Lotion D e i o n i z e d Water P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Glycerin

76.00% 5.00 2.50

Pelemol ICE ( I s o c e t y l Behenate) Pelemol IS5 ( I s o s t e a r y l Behenate) Pelemol BB ( B e h e n y l Behenate) Pelemol GTB ( G l y c e r y l T r i b e h e n a t e ) Phoenoxol T ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 ) Cetearyl Alcohol

10.00 2.00 0.25 0.25 1.50 1.50

Phenoxyethanol ( a n d ) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Butylparaben (Phenonip)

1 .oo

Procedure: Heat phase A t o 70-75C. H e a t phase t o 70-75C w i t h adequate a g i t a t i o n . Homogenize phase B i n t o phase 8. S w i t c h t o p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n and c o o l & t o 45C. Add phase C t o & w i t h c o n t i n u e d p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . When & r e a c h e s 35C, s t o p . Formul a 14-63-D

SOURCE:

Phoenix Chemical,

Inc,:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

416

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Natural Collagen, Aloe and Lanolin Hand Lotion A.

B.

%w/W 69.00 D e i o n i z e d Water 0.05 T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 7.00 C a r b o p o l 934, 2% Aq. s o l ' n (Carbomer 934) 0.30 Methylparaben 0.15 Propylparaben 2.00 T r i e t h a n o l a m i ne-99% 2.50 Propylene Glycol C o l l a g e n H y d r o l y z a t e C o s m e t i c 55 ( H y d r o l y z e d C o l l agen) 1 . O O

D i i s o p r o p y l Ad p a t e Stearic Acid Cetyl Alcohol Anhydrous Lano i n , USP ( L a n o l i n ) Amerchol L-101 ( M i n e r a l O i 1 ( a n d ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l )

2.00 4.00 1.oo 5.00 5.00 1.oo 9,s.

C . A l o e V e r a Gel Fragrance, c o l o r

Procedure: 1 . Heat Phases A and B s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C. 2 . Add A t o B a t 75C w i t h a d e q u a t e m i x i n g . 3 . M i x and c o o l t o 40C. 4 . Add Phase C . M i x t o i n c o r p o r a t e . Properties: I n c o r p o r a t e s t h r e e o f t h e most b e n e f i c i a 1 y o u t h - g i v i ng i n g r e d i e n t s k n o w n - - L a n o l i n , H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n and A l o e . Penet r a t e s q u i c k l y i n t o t h e s k i n t o leave a s o f t , s i l k y a f t e r f e e l . Cost e f f e c t i v e , b u t w i t h s t r o n g m a r k e t i n g appeal.

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . :

Formula #SK-2020

Lotions

417

O/W Broad-Spectrum Protective Moisturizing Lotion with Vitamins Ingredients: A . P a r s o l MCX P a r s o l 1789 P a r s o l 500 0 G l y c e r y l Monostearate Cetyl Alcohol Extra Dermol 185 A n t a r o n V-220 (Ganex V-220) P r i s o r i ne 3505 B u t y l a t e d Hydroxytoluene E d e t a BD Phenoni p Amphisol A 8 . D e i o n i z e d Water AMP 10% s o l ' n C . D e i o n i z e d Water P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l C a r b o p o l 981 1% s o l ' n AMP 10% s o l ' n 0 . D e i o n i z e d Water P a r s o l HS AMP 10% s o l ' n E. Vitamin E Acetate F . Ropufa 25 N-6 O i l G. Panthenol H . Ponceau Red S X 0 . 2 % s o l ' n I . Perfume ( P a r f e x 49915)

% by Weight

2.00

1.oo

0.60 2.00 2.00 6.00 2.00 2.00 0.05 0.10 0.60 1.50 10.00 3.97 21 . 3 1 5.00 10.00 1.02 20.00 0.60 1 .80 2.00 2.00 2.00 0.05 0.40

Remarks: a ) W h i l e n o t a s u n s c r e e n , t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n s c o r e d an SPF 8 when t e s t e d a c c o r d i n g t o t h e FDA/OTC method ( r a n g e - f i n d i n g a s s a y on s i x s u b j e c t s . I R I R e f . 5 8 2 6 2 7 ) . b ) D e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d perfume f o r sunscreens. Procedure: Heat p a r t A t o 85C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . When homogeneous, add p a r t B p r e - h e a t e d t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g . Add p a r t C p r e - h e a t e d t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g . Then add p a r t D p r e - h e a t e d t o 60C. Cool t o 4 0 C , add p a r t s E , F , G, H , and I . Compensate f o r w a t e r l o s s and continue s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o ambient temperature.

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y : F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0312E s u g g e s t e d b y Givaudan-Roure SA

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

418

O/W Hand and Body Lotion Function 96w/w Ingredients: 1 D i s t i 11ed/Dei o n i zed Water 80.30 Viscosity 2. A c r i t a m e r 934 (Carbomer) 0.10 Humectant 3 . Glycerine 4.00 S t a b i 1 it y 0.05 4 . T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA Preservative 5. Methylparaben 0.20 3.20 E m u l s i f ie r 6 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) Emul s i f ie r 7. R i t a Stearic Acid 3.00 8 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n Feel Alcohol) 3.00 Emulsifier 1.40 9 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) Emulsifier 1 0 . R i t a c h o l 1000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 0.60 Moisturizing 11.Ritaderm (R.I.T.A. Blend) 2.00 1 2 . R i t a IPP ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 0.50 Emoll ie n t 13.Propylparaben 0.10 Preservat ve 14 . T r i e t h a n o l ami n e @ 50% 1.20 PH 15.Glydant 0.25 Preservat ve 16.Fragrance 0.10 Odor Compoundino P r o c e d u r e : To w a t e r s i f t i n i t e m 2 . A a i t a t e u n t i l u n i f o r m . Then w e gh i n i t e m s 3-5 and b e g i n h e a t i n g 70C. I n a n o t h e r v e s s e l w e i g h i t e m s 6-13 and h e a t t o 70C. To w a t e r b l e n d add i t e m 1 4 . A f t e r n e u t r a l i z a t i o n add o i l phase w i t h c o n t i n u o u s a g i t a t i o n . Cool and add f r a g r a n c e . R e f . No. 119-96

----

.

to

Lanolin Hand and Body Lotion Creamv t e x t u r e . l a n o l i n based l o t i o n w h i c h a b s o r b s q u i c k l y and d o e s - n o t l e a v e a g r e a s y r e s i d u a l f i l m . F u n c t ion Ingredients: %w/w 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 72.37 Viscosity 2 . A c r i t a m e r 941 (Carbomer) 0.05 Humectant 3. Propylene Glycol 5.00 P r e s e r v a t iv e 4. Methylparaben 0.10 5 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e @ 50% 1.48 PH 6. R i t a Stearic Acid 2.60 Emulsifier Emolliency 7 . Mineral O i l (70 vis.-Penreco) 8.00 Moisture 8. Ritaderm (R.I.T.A. Blend) 2.75 1.00 9 . L a n o l i n , X t r a Deo ( R . I . T . A . Lano i n ) Protection Preservative 1O.Propylparaben 0.05 11 R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i 1 and L a n o l i A1 coho1 ) 4.00 Feel 1 2 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) Emul s f i e r 2.00 1 3 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0.30 Emuls f i e r 14. Fragrance 0.10 Odor 15 G1 y d a n t Prese v a t iv e 0.20 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Weigh i t e m 1 and s i f t i n i t e m 2 u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . Add i t e m s 3-4 and b e g i n h e a t i n g t o 70C. I n a n o t h e r c o n t a i n e r w e i g h and add i n g r e d i e n t s 6-13 and h e a t t o 70C. Add o i l phase t o w a t e r phase. Add i t e m 5 . M i x f o r 10-15 m i n u t e s . B e g i n c o o l i n g , t h e n add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . R e f . No. 119-98 SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : S k i n Care F o r m u l a r y

----

.

I

Lotions

419

Washing Lotion Clear, 15.3% active ingredient Reci De: Genapol ZRO l i q u i d Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e Hostapon KCG Sodi um Cocoyl G1 u t a m a t e Genapol AMG Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S u l f a t e Perfume Water Dyestuff solution Preservative Genagen CAB Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e Genapol L-3 Laureth-3 Sodium c h l o r i d e

35.00% 8.00% 5.00% 0.50%

39.50% q.s. q.s.

8.00% 2.00% 2.00%

Procedure: I Add one a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f B t o A. I 1 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. I11 F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h C. Formula A II/4010 Washing-Lotion Clear, 10.5% active ingredient Recipe: A Genapol AMG Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S u l f a t e B

Hostapon KCG Sodium Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e Glucamate DOE 120 PEG-1 2 0 M e t h y l G1 ucose D i o l e a t e Perfume Water Dyestuff solution Preservative Genagen CAB Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e

20.00% 6.00%

1 .OO% 0.30% 62,70% q.s. 9,s.

10.00%

Procedure: I Add one a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f B t o A . I 1 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. Formula A II/4019

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : Guide F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmetics & T o i l e t r i e s

420

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Washing-Lotion With bacteriostatic effect, clear, 10.5% active ingredient Reci De: A Octopirox P i r o c t o n e 01 ami ne B Genapol AMG Magnesi um-PEG-3 Cocami de S u l f a t e C Hostapon KCG Sodium Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e G1 ucamate DOE 20 PEG-1 20 M e t h y l G1 ucose D i o l e a t e Perfume D y e s t u f f s o l u t on Preservative D Allantoin E Water F Genagen CAB Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e Procedure: I Dissolve A i n 0 . I 1 One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f C a r e added t o I 1 1 D i s s o l v e D i n warmed E . IV S t i r 1 1 1 i n t o 1 1 . V I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. VI F i n a l l y adjust the v i s c o s i t y w i t h F. Formula A II/4020

0.20% 20.DO% 6.00% 1.00%

0.30% q.s. q.s. 0.20%

62.30% 10.00%

I.

Handwashing-Paste Clear, gel type, with solvent, 21.2% active ingredient Recipe: A Genaool UD-030 Undeceth-3 Oleic acid Triethanolamine Preservative B Genapol ZRO l i q u i d Sodi urn L a u r e t h S u l f a t e H o s t a p u r SAS 60 Sodium C14-17 Sec. A l k y l S u l f o n a t e Water C S h e l l s o l D 70 Petroleum D i s t i l l a t e s Procedure: I M i x t h e components of A . I 1 One a f t e r a n o t h e r , t h e components o f B a r e added t o 1 1 1 Heat I 1 t o 70C, t h e n add C . I V F i n a l 1 y homogeni ze i f n e c e s s a r y . Formula A II/1029

5.00%

4.00% 2.00% q.s.

15.00%

20.00% 29.00% 25.0D%

I.

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : Guide F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmetics & T o i l e t r i e s

Section IX Shampoos

421

422

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Amino Moisture Balance Shampoo D e i o n i z e d Water Sodium C14-Cl6 O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e May-Tein CT (TEA-Cocoyl H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ) Quat-Pro S ( S t e a r y l t r i m o n i u m H y d r o x y E t h y l H y d r o 1y z e d C o l l agen) Aqua-Tein C ( C o l l a g e n Amino A c i d s ( a n d ) Acetamide MEA ( a n d ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l )

35.10 35.10 10.00 1.50

Monamid CMA (Cocamide MEA) Methylparaben

3.00 5.00 3.00 0.20

D o w i c i l 200 ( Q u a t e r n i u m - 1 5 ) Ammon i um Chl o r id e Dei o n i zed Water C i t r i c Acid Fragrance, c o l o r

0.20 2.00 5.00 q.s q.s

Cocoamphocarboxyglycinate

Procedure: Warm phase A t o 65C. M i x u n t i l m e l t e d and homogeneous. A d j u s t p H w h i l e warm t o p H = 6 . 5 . P r e - d i s s o l v e Ammonium C h l o r i d e i n w a t e r . Add c a r e f u l l y t o a v o i d a i r e n t r a p m e n t . Cool t o 50C. Add f r a g r a n c e Properties: T h i s shampoo i s a n e f f e c t i v e c l e a n s e r w i t h e x c e l l e n t foam g e n e r a t i n g p r o p e r t i e s . Quat-Pro S and Aqua-Tein C p r o v i d e t h e c o n d i t i o n i n g r e q u i r e d f o r good m a n a g e a b i l i t y and an optimum m o i s t u r e b a l a n c e t h r o u g h o u t t h e h a i r . May-Tein CT p r o v i d e s a n t i - i r r i t a n c y and m i l d n e s s . Quat-Pro S , a q u a t e r n i z e d , h i g h m o l e c u l a r w e i g h t p r o t e i n c o a t s , s e a l s and p r o t e c t s t h e h a i r . The h a i r i s l e f t f e e l i n g s o f t and b o d i e d . SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : F o r m u l a #HS-115 Shampoo Clear, low viscosity M a t e r i a1 s/CTFA-Index: Texapon NA/Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e Hoe S 3267/Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e Water B e l s i l AOM 6041 E/Amodimethicone ( a n d ) E m u l s i f i e r B e l s i 1 DMC 6031 / D i m e t h i cone Copol yo1 Ammonium C h l o r i d e Preservatives, fragrances

2 2 . 50% 22.50 48.00 1.oo 1 .oo 5.00 q.s.

D i s s o l v e Hoe S 3267 i n w a t e r , add t h e r e m a i n i n g components and a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h t h e ammonium c h l o r i d e . T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e :

F o r m u l a t i o n 1 5 0 AH

Shampoos

423

Amino-Soy Revital Shampoo

%w/w A.

D e i o n i z e d Water Monamate OPA-30 ( D i s o d i um 01 eami do PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate) M o n a t e r i c ISA-35 (Sodium I s o s t e a r a m p h o p r o p i o n a t e ) S o y - T e i n NL ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy P r o t e i n ) Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e May-Tein SY (TEA-Cocoyl H y d r o l y z e d Soy P r o t e i n )

8.00 8.00 2.00 25.00 10.00

0.30

8. G l y d a n t Fragrance C i t r i c Acid,

46.70

q.s. 9 , s . t o pH 6 . 5

50% S o l u t i o n

Procedure: M i x and h e a t phase A t o 50C. M i x u n t i l homogeneous. M i x and c o o l t o 40C. Add f r a g r a n c e & p r e s e r v a t i v e . Add c i t r i c a c i d t o thicken. Properties: A f o a m i n g v e g e t a b l e shampoo w i t h e x c e l l e n t foam g e n e r a t i o n . M i l d , y e t t h o r o u g h c l e a n s i n g . May-Tein SY i s a m i l d , f o a m i n g L i p o - p r o t e i n w h i c h i s b i o d e g r a d a b l e . S o y - T e i n NL adds condi t i o n i n g and post-shampoo b e n e f i t s . These s u b s t a n t i v e p r o t e i n s e q u i l i b r a t e t h e m o i s t u r e c o n t e n t o f t h e h a i r so i t a c t u a l l y i m p r o v e s w i t h t i m e . M o i s t h a i r i s l e s s r a s p y , f e e l s b e t t e r and i s l e s s p r o n e t o b r e a k a g e . A n e x c e l l e n t shampoo f o r permed o r treated hai r.

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . :

Formulation

#HS-202

Shampoo for Permed Hair Mackanate OP Mackanate CP Mackol 70NS Mackami n e WGO Mackalene 716 Paragon P r e s e r v a t i v e C i t r i c a c i d t o pH 6 . 0 Sodium C h l o r i d e q s t o 2000 c p s Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o

Weight,% 20.0 12.0 10.0

4.0 1.o

q.s. 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add s u r f a c t a n t s t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 40C. 2 . B l e n d u n t i l c l e a r and a d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 3 . Add r e m a i n i n g components and a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium chloride. SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

424

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Anti-Dandruff Shampoo T h e r a p e u t i c shampoo c o n t a i n i n g 2% z i n c p y r i t h i o n e i n a t h i c k , r i c h f o a m i n g c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo. Inaredients: P a r t A: D e i o n i z e d Water Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) ( 1 ) L a u r a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e (32%) ( 2 ) Part 8 : Carbopol

Weiaht%

1382 ( 3 )

Cocamide DEA ( 4 )

31 - 1 34.3

7.5 0.5 3.5

P a r t C: Dei o n i zed Water 16.0 D i s o d i um EDTA 0.1 DMDM H y d a n t o i n ( 5 ) 0.4 0.5 Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ( 6 ) Sodium H y d r o x i d e (10%) 2.0 P a r t D: Z i n c P y r i t h i o n e (48%) ( 7 )

4.1

Function Diluent Surfactant Surfactant Suspension S t a b i 1iz e r Foam S t a b i l i z e r Diluent Chelant Preservative Conditioner Neutralizing Agent Active

(1) Standapol A (Henkel) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7)

Mackam LMB-LS ( M c I n t y r e Group) Carbomer (BFGOodrich) Standamid KD ( H e n k e l ) Glydant (Lonza) N-Hance ( A q u a l o n ) Z i n c Omadine ( O l i n C h e m i c a l )

P r e p a r a t i o n Procedure: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s , s l o w l y m i x , h e a t t o 40-50C. 2 . S e p a r a t e l y h e a t cocamide DEA t o 50C, s l o w l y m i x i n Carbopol f o r m i n g a p a s t e , add t o P a r t A. 3 . Combine P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s , c a r e f u l l y d i s p e r s e g u a r b e f o r e a d d i n g NaOH, add t o P a r t ABB. 4. W i t h s l o w m i x i n g add z i n c p y r i t h i o n e t o shampoo base; m i x 20-30 m i n u t e s ,

SOURCE: 0F G o o d r i c h C o , : Formula C-0038

Shampoos

425

Antidandruff-Shampoo Clear, 15.1% active ingredient Recipe: Octopirox P i r o c t o n e Olami ne B Water C Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e Genapol SBE D i s o d i um L a u r e t h S u l f o s u c c i n a t e Perfume D Allantoin E Water F Dyestuff solution Genagen CAB Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e Genapol L-3 Laureth-3 G Sodium c h l o r i d e A

Procedure: I M i x A and B . I 1 C i s added by c o n t i n u i n g s t h e s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r . I 1 1 D i s s o l v e D i n warmed 111 i n t o 11. V One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components V I I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. V I 1 F i n a to IV. v i s c o s i t y w i t h G. Formula B I / 6 1 3 4

0.50% 10.00% 35.00%

5.00% 0.30% 0.20% 40.30% q.s. 6.00% 1.50% 1.20% irring until E. I V S t i r o f F a r e added l y adjust the

Antidandruff-Shampoo Recipe: Octooirox P y r o c t o n e Olami ne B Water C Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e Genapol SEE D i s o d i urn L a u r e t h S u l f o s u c c i n a t e D Perfume Water Genagen CAB Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne Dyestuff solution E Sodium c h l o r i d e

A

0.75%

10.00% 35.00% 10.00%

0.30% 34.25% 6.00% q.s. 1.70%

Procedure: I M i x A and B. I 1 C i s added b y c o n t i n u i n g s t i r r i n g u n t i l t h e solution i s clear. I11 One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f D a r e added t o 11. I V I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. V F i n a l l y adjust the viscosity with E. Formula B I / 6 1 3 6

SOURCE:

H o e c h s t : Guide F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmetics 8, T o i l e t r i e s

426

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Anti-Dandruff Shampoo

%w/w

Texapon IES Dehyton AB 30 B a c t e r ic ide l I 2 - p r o p y 1 ene g l y c o l Water N o t e : WAS 28%, v i s c o u s F o r m u l a N o . T61-16

50.0 10.0 0.5 5.0 34.5

Shampoo for Greasy Hair Texapon MG Comperlan F P a r a v i t a l 9B Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 15.5%, medium v i s c o u s Formula N o . T61-18

%w/w 40.0 1.o 5.0 2.0 52.0

Sulfur Shampoo

%w/w

Texapon IES Bioschwefel-Fluid Water N o t e : WAS 20% , v i s c o u s Formula No. T61-19

40.0 3.0 57.0

Shampoo, with Azulene, Clear

%w/w

Texapon ASV Texapon SBN Azu 1ene Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 19%, v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. T61-20

30.0 30.0 0.1 4.0 35.9

Herbal Shampoo, Clear Texapon N25/N40 Comperlan KD Extrapon 5 spec. Extrapon b i r c h spec. Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 16%, medium v i s c o u s Formula No. T61-21

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model F o r m u l a e

%w/w 50.0 2.0 2.0 1.o

2.0 43.0

Shampoos

427

Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with Ritavena 5 Inqredients: s6w/w P a r t A: 1 . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e 51.70 8.80 2 . D i s t i l l e d Water 3. P a t i o n i c ISL/85 3.00 4 . R i t a EGDS 3.00 5. Ritamid C 4.50 6. Propylene Glycol 2.00 P a r t 8: 7 . NaCl (25% S o l u t i o n ) t-1.00 8. P a t l a c LA (44% S o l u t i o n ) QS P a r t C: 9. Flowers o f S u l f u r 2.00 Part 0: 10.Ritavena 5 4.00 11 . D i s t i l l e d Water (1OOC) 20.00 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Premix P a r t D i n b l e n d e r f o r 2 m i n u t e s . Heat p a r t A t o 165F. When a t t e m p e r a t u r e s t i r P a r t A u n t i l homogeneous. S w i t c h t o h i g h s h e a r m i x i n g ( d o n o t a e r a t e ) . Add P a r t C i n t o P a r t A and s h e e r f o r 10-12 m i n u t e s ( u n t i l t h o r o u g h l y d i s p e r s e d ) . W h i l e s t i l l warm, s w i t c h a g a i n t o r e g u l a r i m p e l l e r m i x e r and add P a r t D. M i x w e l l w h i l e c o o l i n g i n w a t e r b a t h . A d j u s t pH t o 7 . 5 w i t h P a t l a c LA i f needed. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h NaCl s o l u t i o n . Formula 11 3-1 20A Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with Ritavena 5 %w/w Inaredients: Part A: 51 - 7 0 1 . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e 8.80 2 . D i s t i l l e d Water 3.00 3. Pationic ISL/85 3.00 4. R i t a EGDS 4.50 5. Ritamid C 2.00 6. Propylene Glycol P a r t E: +-I -00 7 . NaCl (25% S o l u t i o n ) QS 8 . P a t l a c LA (44% S o l u t i o n ) P a r t C: 2.00 9. Flowers o f S u l f u r P a r t D: 4.50 10.Ritavena 5 19.50 1 1 . D i s t i l l e d Water (1OOC) Compounding P r o c e d u r e : homogen Heat P a r t A t o 165F. When a t t e m p e r a t u r e , s t i r u n t i Sprinkle eous, t h e n s w i t c h t o h i g h s h e a r m i x i n g ( d o n o t a e r a t e ) horouqhly P a r t C i n t o P a r t A and s h e a r f o r 10-12 m i n u t e s ( u n t i l d i s p e r s e d ) . P r e m i x P a r t D i n b l e n d e r f o r 1 m i n u t e . Whi e s t i l l warm, s w i t c h A 8 C t o r e g u l a r i m p e l l e r m i x e r and add P a r t D . M i x w e l l w h i l e c o o l i n g i n w a t e r b a t h . A d j u s t pH t o 7 . 5 w i t h P a t l a c LA i f needed. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h NaCl s o l u t i o n . F o r m u l a 113-1208 SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : R i t a v e n a 5 Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

-

428

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with Ritavena 5 Inaredients: %w/w P a r t A: 1 . Sodium L a u r y l E t h e r S u l f a t e 57.69 2 . P a t i o n i c ISL/85 3.00 3 . R i t a EGDS 3.00 4. Propylene Glycol 2.00 P a r t B: 5 . Z i n c Omadine 2.00 P a r t C: 6 . Ritavena 5 4.50 7 . D i s t i l l e d Water (1OOC) 26.41 P a r t D: 8 . P a t l a c LA (44% S o l u t i o n ) t-0.40 Part E: 9 . NaCl (25% S o l u t i o n ) t - 1 .oo Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat P a r t A i n w a t e r b a t h t o 165F, s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . P r e m i x P a r t C i n b l e n d e r f o r 2 m in u t e s . P la c e P a r t A under h i g h shear m i x e r ( d o n o t a e r a t e ) . Add P a r t B and s h e a r f o r a p p r o x i m a t e l y 12-15 m i n u t e s ( u n t i l t h o r o u g h l y d i s p e r s e d ) . W h i l e s t i l l warm, remove f r o m h i g h s h e a r m i x e r , p l a c e u n d e r r e g u l a r i m p e l l e r m i x e r and add P a r t C . Water b a t h c o o l t o 120F. Add P a r t D t o pH=5.5. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h P a r t E i f n e c e s s a r y . N o t e : 2% Z i n c Omadine i s n o t n e c e s s a r y as f u n c t i o n a l i t y r e m a i n s w i t h 1% Z i n c Omadine. A c i d pH i s n e c e s s a r y f o r p r o p e r s t a b i l i t y o f Omadine. F o r m u l a 113-141C Silicone Shampoo with Ritavena 5 Inciredie n t s : %w/w P a r t A: 1 . P a t i o n i c 138C 8-00 2 . M a s i l SF 60,000 1 .oo 3 . R i t a p e g 150 DS 2.00 4 . R i t a EGDS 3.00 5 . W i t c o n a t e SXS 2.00 6. Propylparaben 0.05 P a r t B: 7 . D i s t i l l e d Water 34.25 8. B i o - T e r g e AS-40 37.50 9. Methylparaben 0.15 Part C: 1 0 . D i s t i l l e d Water (1OOC) 10.00 11. R i tavena 5 2.00 P a r t D: 1 2 . K a t h o n CG 0.05 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat P a r t s A and B t o 165F. Combine. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . P r e m i x P a r t C i n b l e n d e r f o r 2 m i n u t e s . Add P a r t C t o m i x t u r e . Cool t o 120F. Add P a r t D . F o r m u l a 114-7 SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:

RITAVENA 5 Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Shampoos

429

Balance Shampoo Component: o/, P1 a n t a r e n 2 0 0 0 20.0 Texapon ALS 6.5 A n t i 1 1415 3.0 Perfume a.s Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e u p t o 100 WAS: 12 pH-value: 5 , 5 V i s c o s i t y mPas: 4220 H i n t : K i n d and amount o f p e r f u m e may i n f l u e n c e t h e v i s c o s i t y o f the product. F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 93/178/9 Shampoo with Care Additive Component: P l a n t a r e n PS 10 16.0 2.0 Lamequat L Perfume o i l q.s. NaCl 2.0 Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e up t o 100 pH-value: 5 , 5 WAS: 10 V i s c o s i t y mPas: 14600 H i n t : K i n d and amount o f perfume may i n f l u e n c e t h e v i s c o s i t y o f the product. F o r m u l a t i o n No. : 9 2 / 1 8 4 / 2 6 Shampoo with Plantaren PS 10 Component: o/, P l a n t a r e n PS 10 15.0 Dehyton K 10.0 C e t i o l HE 2.0 NaCl 0.5 Perfume o i l q.s. Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e up t o 1 0 0 pH-value: 5 , 5 WAS: 1 2 V i s c o s i t y mPas: 3 7 0 0 H i n t : K i n d and amount o f p e r f u m e may i n f l u e n c e t h e v i s c o s i t y o f the product. F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 92/184/28

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Model F o r m u l a e

430

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Clear Shampoo YO

Texapon K 14 S 70 s p e z i a l Dehyton K P1 a n t a r e n 1200 Arlypon F NaCl Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e

11

.E

7.0 4.0 0.9 3.0 q.s. u p t o 100

pH-Val ue : 5 , 5 WAS: 12 V i s c o s i t y mPas: 8 0 0 0 H i n t : K i n d and amount o f p e r f u m e may i n f l u e n c e t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h e product. F o r m u l a t i o n No. : 90/139/39 Mild, Clear Care Shampoo

% Texapon N70 P1a n t a r e n 1200 Lamequat L NaCl Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e

8.0 4.0 3.0 1.3 9.5.. up t o 1 0 0

pH-Val ue : 5 , 5 WAS: 1 0 V i s c o s i t y mPas: 3200 H i n t : K i n d and amount o f p e r f u m e may i n f l u e n c e t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h e product. F o r m u l a t i o n No. : 9 0 / 1 3 9 / 4 1 Clear Shampoo with Panthenol

% P1 a n t a r e n 1200 Texapon ALS D-Panthenol USP ( 5 0 % ) NaCl Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e

10.0 17.0 1.o 2.3 q.s. up t o 100

pH-value: 5,5 WAS: 1 0 V i s c o s i t y mPas: 5000 H i n t : K i n d and amount o f p e r f u m e may i n f l u e n c e t h e v i s c o s i t y o f the product. F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 90/139/50 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Model F o r m u l a e

Shampoos

431

Clear Shampoo with Protein Component: !& Texapon N70 11 . o Dehyton K 7.0 P1a n t a r e n 1200 4.0 N u t r i l a n 1-50 2.0 NaCl 1.6 Perfume q.s. Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e up t o 100 pH-value: 5,5 WAS: 12 V i s c o s i t y mPas: 4300 H i n t : K i n d and amount o f p e r f u m e may i n f l u e n c e t h e v i s c o s i t y o f the product. F o r m u l a t i o n No. : 90/139/38 Clear Shampoo with Hydrolyzed Keratin Component: % P1 a n t a r e n 1200 13.0 Texapon ALS 11.0 Nutrilan Keratin W 3.0 NaCl 0.4 Perfume q.s. Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e up t o 100 pH-value: 5 , 5 WAS: 10 V i s c o s i t y mPas: 11 700 H i n t : K i n d and amount o f p e r f u m e may i n f l u e n c e t h e v i s c o s i t y o f the product. F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 90/139/47

Mild, Clear Shampoo with Keratin Component: !& 29.0 Texapon K 14 S s p e z . 4.0 P1a n t a r e n 2000 1.o Nutrilan Keratin W 3.0 Arlypon F 1. o NaCl q.s. Perfume UP t o 100 Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e V i s c o s i t y mPas: 5220 WAS: 10 pH-val ue : 6,5 H i n t : K i n d and amount o f p e r f u m e may i n f l u e n c e t h e v i s c o s i t y o f the product. F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 92/087/43

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA:

Model F o r m u l a e

432

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Clear & Bright Shampoo Plus Conditioner (Formula 90-1109) T h i s r i c h l a t h e r i n g shampoo c o n d i t i o n s t h e h a i r w h i l e i t c l e a n s and l e a v e s t h e h a i r s o f t and manageable. U n l i k e many c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoos, w h i c h l e a v e t h e h a i r f e e l i n g heavy o r o i l y , t h i s f o r m u l a c o n d i t i o n s t h e h a i r w i t h o u t heavy b u i l d u p . Step A: % By W e i a h t Water 22.20 J a g u a r C-162 0.30 Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l . W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y d i s p e r s e J a g u a r C-162 i n w a t e r . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , warm s y s t e m t o 40-45C. S t e p B-: Rhodapon L-22HNC 65.00 Ammonium X y l e n e S u l f o n a t e (40%) 5.00 C i t r i c A c i d (25% Aqueous) Q . S . t o pH 5 . 5 - 6 . 0 W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n s l o w l y b l e n d Rhodapon L-22HNC and AXS-40 i n t o heat ed water system. M ix u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m ( h e a t may b e n e e d e d ) . A d j u s t pH s y s t e m t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 0 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d (25% Aq.) a s needed. SteD c: A l k a m i d e LE 1.50 M i r a p o l 550 0.50 M i r a t a i ne BET-0-30 5.00 C i t r i c A c i d (25% Aqueous) Q . S . t o pH 5 . 5 - 6 . 0 Combine A 1 kami de LE, M i r a p o l 550, and M i r a t a i n e BET-0-30. Mix u n t i l uniform. T h i s should produce a pourable s l u r r y . S l o w l y b l e n d t h e s l u r r y i n t o t h e main s y s t e m and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . A d j u s t pH o f s y s t e m t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 0 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d a s needed. SteD D : Fragrance Q.S. Dye(s) Q.S. Preservative Q.S. S l o w l y b l e n d c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e i n t o system. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Step E: Ammonium C h l o r i d e Q.S. or Q.S. Ammonium X y l e n e S u l f o n a t e (40%) I f d e s i r e d , t r a c e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s ( 0 . 0 5 % i n c r e m e n t s ) o f Ammonium C h l o r i d e may be added t o i n c r e a s e t h e f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y . A d d i t i o n s o f AXS-40 ( 0 . 5 % i n c r e m e n t s ) may be u s e d t o l o w e r t h e formulation viscosity. Typical Formulation Properties Appearance 13 25C: Clear Liquid pH ( a s i s ) : 5.5-6.0 V i s c o s i t y 8 25C (No. 4 S p i n d l e @ 20RPM) 4,000-6,000 c p s CTFA D e s i a n a t i o n : W a t e r , Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e , Ammonium X y l e n e S u l f o n a t e , L a u r a m i d e DEA, O l e a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e , P o l y q u a t e r n i u m 7 , H y d r o x y p r o p y l Guar H y d r o x p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e , C i t r i c A c i d , P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, Ammonium C h l o r i d e .

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s 8 S p e c i a l t i e s : F o r m u l a 90-1109

Shampoos

433

Conditioning, Anti-Dandruff Shampoo (Formula 91-1105) % Bv Weiaht Jaguar C-17 0.50 Water 35.00 8: R h o d i g e l EZ 0.05 C: C i t r i c Acid Q . S . t o pH 5-7 D: 45-00 Rhodapon SB 82085 E: A1 kami de C-212 1.80 A1 kamul s EGMS 0.90 F: Z i n c Omadine 48% A c t i v e D i s p e r s i o n ( O l i n ) 2.00 Water 45.00 G: C i t r i c Acid Q.S. t o pH 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 Fragrance, Dye(s), Preservat ve H: Q.S. 6-1 4 I: M i r a t a i ne CBC

Step A: Step Step Step Step SteD Step Step Step

81 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : S t e p A: W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a a i t a t on. d i s p e r s e Jaauar C-17 40- 5 C - w i t h ' smooth a g i t a t i o n . i n w a t e r . Heat system S t e p B: W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , d i s p e r s e R h o d i g e l EZ i n t o h e a t e d w a t e r base. W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , c o n t i n u e t o h e a t system t o 60C. Step C: A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n pH t o 5-7 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d as needed. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n Rhodapon Step D: SB 82088. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n h e a t system t o 70-75C. S t e p E: W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d A l k a m i d e C-212 and A l k a m u l s EGMS i n t o h e a t e d system. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . S t e p F: Combine w a t e r and Z i n c Omadine d i s p e r s i o n and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n t o h e a t e d shampoo b a s e . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m and t h e n c o o l system t o 40-45C w i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n . S t e p G: A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d as needed. Add c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e . S t e p H: S t e p I: A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 7,000-11,000 c p s (No. 4 S p i n d l e @ 10 RPM-25C) w i t h t h e i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n o f M i r a t a i n e CBC as needed.

to

Typical Formulation Properties Appearance @ 25C: V i s c o u s , Opaque L i q u i d pH : 5.5-6.5 V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 7,000-11,000 c p s (No. 4 s p i n d l e @ 10 RPM) % Non V o l a t i l e s : 20-23 Active Ingredient: Zinc Pyrithione O t h e r I n a r e d i e n t s (CTFA I n d e n t i f i c a t i o n ) : Water, Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e , Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e , Cocamide MEA, G l y c o l S t e a r a t e , Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c A c i d , Xanthan Gum, D y e ( s ) .

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s :

Formula 91-1105

434

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioning Shampoo T h i c k , s t a b l e shampoo h a v i n g good c l e a n i n g and c o n d i t i o n i n g properties o f the hai r

.

Inaredi ent: P a r t A: D e i o n i z e d Water Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) ( 1 ) Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (27%) ( 2 ) P a r t 6: Carbopol

Weight% 21 . 5 5

D i 1u e n t

43.00

Surfactant Surfactant

11.00 0.75

1382 ( 3 )

Cocamide DEA ( 4 )

3.50

P a r t C: D i m e t h i c o n e (100,000 c s ) (5) Olealkonium C h l o r i d e ( 6 )

0.50

1.00

P a r t D: D e i o n i z e d Water 18.00 D i s o d i um EDTA 0.10 DMDM H y d a n t o i n ( 7 ) 0.40 Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ( 8 ) 0.20 NaOH (10%) 2 .OO (1) (2) (3) (4)

(5) (6) (7) (8)

Function

Suspension S t a b i 1 iz e r Foam S t a b i 1 iz e r Lubricant Conditioner Diluent Chelant Preservative Conditioner Neutralizing Agent

Standapol A (Henkel) S t a n d a p o l EA-3 ( H e n k e l ) Carbomer ( B F G o o d r i c h ) Standamid KD ( H e n k e l ) 200 F l u i d (Dow C o r n i n g ) M-Quat JO 50 (PPG-Mazer) Glydant (Lonza) N-Hance ( A q u a l o n )

P r e p a r a t i o n Procedure: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s , s l o w l y m i x , h e a t t o 50C. 2 . S e p a r a t e l y h e a t cocamide DEA t o 50C, s l o w l y m i x i n Carbopol f o r m i n g a p a s t e , add t o P a r t A w i t h moderate speed, m i x i n g 30 m i n u t e s . 3 . S e p a r a t e l y combine P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t t o 50C, s l o w l y m i x t o combine w i t h P a r t s A and B w i t h moderate speed m i x i ng. 4 . S e p a r a t e l y add guar i n t o f i r s t t h r e e i n g r e d i e n t s of P a r t D, when d i s p e r s e d add NaOH, combine w i t h P a r t s A, 6 , and C, w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n f o r 20 m i n u t e s .

SOURCE: BF G o o d r l c h

Co,:

Formula

C-0038

Shampoos

435

Conditioning Shampoo High-viscosity product with a silky shine. Very mild. Material/CTFA-Index: Water Texapon ASV/Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( a n d ) Magnesium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( a n d ) Sodium L a u r e t h 8 - S u l f a t e ( a n d ) Sodium O l e t h S u l f a t e ( a n d ) Magnesium O l e t h Sulfate Dehyton K/Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e Comperl an KD/Cocami de DEA Sodium C h l o r i d e Texapon SG/Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( a n d ) Cocamide MEA (and) G l y c o l Di s t e a r a t e B e l s i l DMC 6 0 3 1 / D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l Preservatives, fragrances

53.50%

20.00 11 - 0 0 4.00 1 .OD

10.00 0.50

a.s

M i x a1 1 components i n t h e g i v e n o r d e r . T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 201 A H Shampoo Clear, thin gel. -___ M a t e r i a1 s/CTFA-I ndex :

Hoe S 3267/Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e Wasser, d e s t . /Water Texapon NA/Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e B e l s i l DMC 6 0 3 3 / D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l A c e t a t e B e l s i l ADM 6041 E/Amodimethicone ( a n d ) E m u l s i f i e r

22.50% 52.00 22.50 1.oo 1.oo

Ammoni um Chl o r i de Preservatives, fragrances D i s s o l v e Hoe S 3267 i n w a t e r , add Texapon NA, B e l s i l DMC 6033 and B e l s i l ADM 6041 E , homogenise t h e m i x t u r e and a d j u s t t h e d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y w i t h t h e ammonium c h l o r i d e . Temperature s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 1 0 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 151 AH

SOURCE:

Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

1

.oo 4,s.

436

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioning Shampoo % Ingredients: Phase A : 54.995 H20, D e i o n i z e d 0.10 C e l q u a t H-100 S t a n d a p o l ES-2 25.00 H e t a i ne CLA (Canol ami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) 5.00 Hetamide RC (Cocamide DEA) 1.50 0.80 Hest E . G . D . S . (E.G.D.S) 0.75 SF 96-350 0.75 Merquat 280 Phase B: 0.07 Kathon CG Phase C : 0.035 C i t r i c Acid FD&C B l u e #1 Q.S. Speci f ic a t ions : pH: 5 . 5 - 6 . 0 V i s c o s i t y #3/12: 50 00 c p s Procedure: 1 ) I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e add H20. W h i l e m i x i n g s p r i n k l e C e l q u a t H-100 i n t o v o r t e x . 2 ) Add r e m a i n d e r o f Phase A and h e a t t o 75C w h i l e m i x i n g u n t i l homogeneous. 3 ) Cool t o 40C and add Phase B. 4 ) A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 5 ) C o l o r as d e s i r e d . Formula HS 93-85

Clear Shampoo Inqredients: % H20, Dei o n i zed 56.93 Sod; um L a u r e t h - 2 S u l f a t e 25.0 H e t a i n e CLA 9.5 Decyl P o l y g l u c o s e 7.5 PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate 1.o Kathon CG 0.07 Speci f ic a t ions : pH: 6.50 V i s c o s i t y #3/12: 5500 c p s Procedure: I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l t a n k equipped w i t h a L i g h t n i n ' t y p e mixer, combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Comments: T h i s m i l d shampoo i s a l k a n o l a m i d e and s a l t f r e e , w h i l e maintaining viscosity. I t i s a l s o a c o l d process formula. Formula HS 93-90

SOURCE: H e t e r e n e ,

I n c . : Suggested Formulas

Shampoos

437

Conditioning Shampoo (Formula 92-1202) % bv W e i a h t Deionized water 61.20 J a g u a r C-17 0.30 C i t r i c Acid Q . S . t o pH 4 . 0 - 5 . 0 B. Rhodacal A-246L 20.0 M i r a t a i n e BET C-30 15.0 A1 kami de DC-212/S 2.0 A1 kamul s EGMS/C 1.o Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.5 Preservative Q.S. F r a g r a n c e and d y e ( s ) Q.S. Blendinn Procedure: D i s s o l v e J a g u a r C-17 t h o r o u g h l y i n w a t e r . A d j u s t pH t o 4-5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Heat t o 65C, t h e n add " B " ( e x c e p t A l k a m u l s EGMS/C and sodium c h l o r i d e ) . A d j u s t pH o f f o r m u l a t i o n t o 5-6 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d , t h e n add A l k a m u l s EGMS/C and sodium c h l o r i d e . C o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n u n t i l u n i f o r m and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . N o t e : Sodium c h l o r i d e may b e added i n t r a c e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s ( 0 . 0 5 - 0 . 1 % ) t o i n c r e a s e v i s c o s i t y and t o p r o v i d e a v e r y good p e a r l . Tentative Specifications: S o l i d s : 16.2% pH: 5 . 0 - 6 . 0 V i s c o s i t y : 4,500-5,000 c p s A.

After-Perm Conditioning Shampoo (Formula 92-1211) % bv W e i q h t Deionized water 60.7 J a g u a r HP 8 0.3 C i t r i c Acid 9 . s . t o pH 4-5 B. Rhodopon ESY 22.0 M i r a t a i n e BET C 30 12.0 A1 kami d e DC-212/S 2.0 A 1 kamul s EGMS/C 1.o Ammoni um X y l e n e S u l f o n a t e 2.0 Fragrance, p r e s e r v a t i v e , dye q.s. Procedure: D i s p e r s e J a g u a r HP 8 t h o r o u g h l y i n w a t e r . A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d t o 4-5. H e a t / m i x t o 75C and add "B" i n o r d e r g i v e n . C o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n u n t i l u n i f o r m . A t 45C, a d j u s t pH t o 5-6 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d , i f necessary. Typical Formulation Properties: Appearance @ 25C: V i s c o u s , opaque l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 3500 c p s 5-6 pH : % Non-Volatiles: 15 A.

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s :

Formulas

438

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioning Shampoo (Creme of Nature Type) Formula 92-1212 % b v Weiaht Step A: Dei o n i zed w a t e r Jaguar C-13s C i t r i c Acid S t e p B: Rhodapon L22HNC M i r a t a i n e BET C-30 A1 kamul s EGMS/C Hydrolyzed Collagen A1 kami de DC-212/5 Sodium C h l o r i d e F r a g r a n c e , dyes, p r e s e r v a t i v e

52.2 0.3 q . ~ .t o pH 4-5

30.0 12.0 2.0

2 .a

1.o 0.5 Q.S.

Blendinq Procedure: D i s p e r s e J a g u a r C-13s t h o r o u g h l y i n w a t e r and a d j u s t pH t o 4-5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . C o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n and h e a t t o 75C, t h e n add "B" i n o r d e r l i s t e d . C o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n t o c o o l t o 45C. A d j u s t pH t o 5-6 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d , i f n e c e s s a r y . Appearance: % Nonvolatile: pH : Viscosity:

Typical Formulation Properties: V i scous, opaque 1 iq u i d 16.5 5.0-6.0 3,800 c p s

CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Water, Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e , Cocam i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e , G l y c o l S t e a r a t e , H y d r o l y z e d Col l a g e n , Cocamide DEA, Sodium C h l o r i d e . Neutralizing Shampoo (Formula 93-0501) Component: A . Rhodapex ES M i r a t a i ne COB A l k a m i d e DC-212/S B. D e i o n i z e d Water Sodi um B o r a t e Acetic Acid Sorbic Acid C. Phenolphthalein FD&C Y e l l o w #6 M e t h y l Paraben Fragrance

% bv Weiqht 18.0 10.0 2.0 69.1 0.5 0.2 0.2 Q.S. Q.S. Q.S.

P.S.

Procedure: Heat "A" and "B" s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C. W i t h a g i t a t i o n , add " 8 " t o " A " u n t i l u n i f o r m and c o o l t o 45C. A d j u s t p H t o 4 . 0 - 5 . 5 w i t h then-package. a c e t i c a c i d , i f n e c e s s a r y . Add "C", SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : Formulas

Shampoos

439

Conditioning-Shampoo Clear, 17.0% active ingredient Recipe: GenaDol LRO 1 i a u i d 35.00% Sodi b m L a u r e t h ' S u l f a t e 8.00% Genapol AMG Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S u l f a t e 0.50% B e l s i l DMC 6032 Oimethicone Copolyol 5.00% Merquat 550 P o l y q u a t e r n i urn-7 0.30% Perfume 33.90% Water 5.00% G1 y c e r i ne 10.00% Genagen CAB Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne 1 .EO% Genapol L-3 Laureth-3 9.s. Dyestuff s o l u t i o n q.s. Preservative 0.50% Sodium c h l o r i d e Procedure: I M i x t h e components o f A . I 1 Add t h e components o f B t o I, and s t i r u n t i l a c l e a r s o l u t i o n has been o b t a i n e d . I 1 1 One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f C a r e added t o 1 1 . I V I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. V F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h 0. Formula B I/6139 Conditioning-Shampoo Clear, 11.5% active ingredient -

Recipe: 25.00% Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodi urn L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 2.00% B Genamin K S L PEG-5 S t e a r y l Ammoni um L a c t a t e 8.00% C Genapol AMG Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S u l f a t e 0.30% Perfume 5 7 20% Water 6.00% Genagen CAB Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e q.s. Dyestuff s o l u t i o n 4.S. P r e s e r v a t ive 1.50% 0 Sodium c h l o r i d e Procedure: I Dissolve B i n A. I 1 One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f C a r e added t o I. I 1 1 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. I V F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h 0. Formula B I/6118

A

I

SOURCE:

H o e c h s t : Guide F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s

440

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioning-Shampoo With pearl lustre effect, 18.0% active ingredient Reci pe : Coconut f a t t y a c i d d i e t h a n o l a m i de

A

2.20%

B

Water

10.00%

C

Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e Hostapon KCG Sodi um Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e Genamin KSL PEG-5 S t e a r y l Ammonium L a c t a t e S o f t i g e n 767 PEG-6 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c G l y c e r i d e s Perfume B e l s i l DMC 6032 Dimethicone Copolyol Genapol TSM PEG-3 D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e

40.00% 5.00% 2.00%

0.40% 0.30% 1 .OO%

2.00% 0.60%

D

Polymer J R 400 Polyquaternium-10

E

Water

F

Genagen CAB Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e Dyestuff solution Preservative

7.00%

Sodium c h l o r i d e

2.00%

G

27.50%

q.s. q.s.

Procedure: I D i s s o l v e A i n warmed B . I 1 One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f C a r e added t o I . I 1 1 D i s s o l v e D i n warmed E , t h e n s t i r i n t o 11. I V One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f F a r e added t o 1 1 1 . V I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. V I F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h G.

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : Guide F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s : Formula

B I/6140

Shampoos

441

Conditioning Shampoo Creamy, white with a silky shine. M a t e r ia1 /CTFA- Index : A : Texapon A/Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e Texapon NA/Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e B: Genapol PMS/Glycol D i s t e a r a t e Comperl an 100/Cocami de MEA Lanette O/Cetearyl Alcohol C: Water C a r b o p o l 934/Carbomer 934 Triethanolamine D:

W a c k e r - B e l s i l ADM 6057 E / A m o d i m e t h i c o n e ( a . ) T r i d e c e t h - 1 O(a. ) C e t r i moni um C h l o r i d e P r e s e r v a t i v e , fragrances, pigments

.

2 0 00% 20.00

3.00 3.00 1 .oo 50.00 1 .5D 2.00

3.00 9.5.

M i x A and h e a t t o 70C, m e l t B and t h e n s t i r i n t o A . M i x C s t i r AB i n t o C a t a p p r o x . 35C and t h e n add D . F o r m u l a t i o n 985 AH Conditioning Shampoo High-viscosity product with a silky shine. M a t e r i a1 /CTFA-Index : Water Texapon ASV/Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( a n d ) Magnesium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( a n d ) Sodium L a u r e t h 8 - S u l f a t e ( a n d ) Sodium O l e t h S u l f a t e ( a n d ) Magnesium O l e t h S u l f a t e Dehyton K/Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e Comper 1an KD/Cocami de DEA Texapon SG/Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( a n d ) Cocamide MEA (and) Glycol D i s t e a r a t e W a c k e r - B e l s i l DM 6600 € / D i m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) T r i d e c e t h - 1 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e , fragrances, pigments Mix a l l t h e ingredients i n t h i s order F o r m u l a t i o n 661 AH

SOURCE:

Wacker S i l i c o n e : S u g g e s t e d Formu a t i o n s

48.00% 25.00 11 .oo 4.00 6.00 5.00

a.s.

442

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioning-Shampoo Clear, 19.0% active ingredient Recipe: Genapol LRO 1 iq u i d 35. 00% Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 5.00% Genapol AMG Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S u l f a t e 5.00% Hostapon SCHC Sodium Cocoyl H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n 5.00% Hostapon KCG Sodi um Cocoyl G1 u t a m a t e 2.00% B e l s i l DMC 6032 D i m e t h i cone C o p o l y o l 1.OO% D-Panthenol 0.30% Perfume 34.20% Water 8.00% Genagen CAB Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne 2.50% Genapol L-3 Laureth-3 q.s. Dyestuff solution q.s. Preservative 2.00% Sodium c h l o r i d e Procedure: I M i x t h e components o f A . I1 Add t h e components o f B t o I,and s t i r u n t i l a c l e a r g e l has been o b t a i n e d . I11 One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f C a r e added t o 11. I V I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. V F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h D. Formula B I/6128 Antidandruff-Shampoo With pearl lustre effect, 14.2% active ingredient Recipe: A Octopirox 0.50% P i r o c t o n e 01 ami ne 10.00% B Water C Genapol LRO l i q u i d 4 0 . 00% Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e D Genapol PGL 4.00% G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Cocamide MEA ( a n d ) PPG-4 Deceth-4 Perfume 0.30% Water 34.20% Dyestuff solution q.s. 6.00% Genagen CAB Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne E Sodium c h l o r i d e 1 .OO% Procedure: I M i x A and B . I 1 C i s added by c o n t i n u i n g s t i r r i n g u n t i l t h e solution i s clear. I11 One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f D a r e added t o 11. I V I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. V Finally adjust the viscosity with E. Formula B I/6126 SOURCE: H o e c h s t : Guide F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s

Shampoos

443

Conditioning Shampoo, Clear Texapon N25 Lamepon S Comperlan OD Lamequat L Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : Medium v i s c o u s , F o r m u l a No. T61-65

%w/w 35.0

15.0 1.0

4.0 0.2

0.5 44.3 WAS 16%

Conditioning Shampoo, Clear Texapon N25/N40 Texapon K14 S s p e c i a l Dehyquart E Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : Low v i s c o u s , WAS 12% F o r m u l a No. T61-67

%w/w 20.0 20.0 3.5 3.5 53.0

Anti-Dandruff Shampoo, Clear

%w/w

Texapon N25 25.0 Dehyton K 15.0 Lamepon S 20.0 Lamepon UD 5.0 Lamequat L 1.5 Lamesoft LMG 1.5 Perfume 0.3 Water 31 .7 N o t e : Medium v i s c o u s , WAS 19% P r e p a r a t i o n : Lamesoft LMG i s d i s s o l v e d i n Texapon N25 ( o r i n a p a r t o f i t ) and t h e o t h e r s u b s t a n c e s a r e added i n t h e o r d e r g i v e n above. F o r m u l a No. T61-70 Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with Sulfur Texapon N25 Lamepon S-TR Lamepon UD Comperlan KD Bi oschwefel f l u i d Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : Medium v i s c o u s , WAS 19% F o r m u l a No. T61-72

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

%w/w 40.0 15.0

5.0 1.5 0.2 0.3 1.5 36.5

444

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cream Shampoo with Protein I Texapon CS p a s t e

%W/W 90.0 5.0

Comperlan LP Hydagen P 2.0 Water 3.0 N o t e : WAS 5 8 % , p a s t e P r e p a r a t i o n : The i n g r e d i e n t s shown i n t h e f o r m u l a a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r and m e l t e d a t a p p r o x . 75C. F o r m u l a No. T65-08 Herbal Shampoo in Cream Form

%w/w I Texapon CS p a s t e

35.0 S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2 SM 10.0 Triethanolamine 4.0 Sodium c h l o r i d e 3.0 Water 45.0 I 1 Hexaplant R i c h t e r 3.0 N o t e : AS 34%, WAS 20%, p a s t e , pH 6-7 P r e p a r a t i o n : The i n g r e d i e n t s shown i n t h e f o r m u l a a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r and m e l t e d a t a p p r o x . 7 5 C . H e x a p l a n t R i c h t e r i s added b e l o w 40C. Formula No. T65-10 Softening Shampoo in Cream Form with Guar Derivative %w/W Texapon N70 20.0 I Comperlan 100 3.0 C u t i n a AGS 3.0 42.4 I 1 Water Sodium c h l o r i d e 0.8 0.8 I11 Cosmedia Guar C261 Water 70-8OC 30.0 N o t e : WAS 17% P r e p a r a t i o n : Phases I and I 1 a r e h e a t e d t o a p p r o x . 80C and m i x e d t o g e t h e r s l o w l y w h i l e s t i r r i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y . When t h e y have c o o l e d t o u n d e r 40C, Phase 111, w h i c h has a l s o been a l l o w e d t o c o o l , i s added. Formula No. T65-11 Cream-Shampoo with Ampholyte

%w/w 35.0 Dehyton G 7.0 10.0 S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2 SM 45.0 I 1 Water 3.0 Sodium c h l o r i d e N o t e : WAS 36%, pH 6-7 P r e p a r a t i o n : Phases I and I 1 a r e h e a t e d t o a p p r o x . 8OC w h i l e b e i n g s l o w l y m i x e d t o g e t h e r and s t i r r e d c o n t i n u o u s l y . When t h e m i x t u r e has c o o l e d t o under 40C, t h e pH i s r e g u l a t e d w i t h triethanolamine. Formula No. T65-13 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae I Texapon CS p a s t e

Shampoos

445

Cristal Clear Shampoo Component: 3 Texapon NSO 25.0 P l a n t a r e n 2000 UP 5.0 Dehyton K 8.0 Lamequat L 3.0 Arlypon F 1.5 Eumulgin L 1.o Perfume o i l 2 0 0 192 B 0.5 Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e s u p t o 100 V i s c o s i t y i n mPas, 2 0 C / a f t e r s t o r a g e : 2 4 0 0 H i n t : The c h o i c e o f p e r f u m e i n f l u e n c e s t h e c o l o u r s t a b i 1 i t y F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 93/109/9p

.

Cristal Clear Shampoo

__

.Comeonenti -

4b

Texapon NSO 20.0 P l a n t a r e n 2000 UP 5.0 Dehyton K 8.0 Arlypon F 3.0 Eumulgin L 1.0 Perfume o i l 2 0 0 288 0.5 Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e s up t o 100 V i s c o s i t y i n mPas, 2 O C / a f t e r s t o r a g e : 12,000 H i n t : The c h o i c e o f p e r f u m e i n f l u e n c e s t h e c o l o u r s t a b i 1 i t y Formul a t ion N o . : 93/109/6p Cristal Clear Shampoo Component:

Texapon NSO 20.0 5.0 P l a n t a r e n 2 0 0 0 UP Dehyton K 8.0 Arlypon F 2.5 Eumulgin L 1.o Perfume o i l 200 288 0.5 Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e s u p t o 100 V i s c o s i t y i n mPas, P O C / a f t e r s t o r a g e : 2400 H i n t : The c h o i c e o f p e r f u m e i n f l u e n c e s t h e c o l o u r s t a b i l i t y . F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 93/109/5P Cristal Clear Shampoo Component:

4b

Texapon NSO 25.0 P l a n t a r e n 2 0 0 0 UP 5.0 Dehyton K 10.0 Arlypon F 3.5 Aethoxal B 1. o Perfume o i l 2 0 0 288 0.5 V i s c o s i t y i n mPas, ZOC/after s t o r a g e : 12400 H i n t : The c h o i c e o f p e r f u m e i n f l u e n c e s t h e c o l o u r s t a b i 1 i t y F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 93/109/3P

SOURCE:

Henkel K G a A : Model F o r m u l a e

446

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Everyday Mild Conditioning Shampoo (Formula 92-0213) % BY Weight 20.0 M i r a n o l C2M Conc. NP 20.3 Rhodapon ES 4.9 M i r a t a i n e BET-0-30 2.0 A1 kamul s EGMS/C 0.2 Jaguar C-14 COS 1.o Propylene Glycol Q . S . t o pH 6-7 C i t r i c Acid 51.6 D . I . Water Q.S. Fragrance, Dye(s), Preservative B1 e n d i np P r o c e d u r e : Step A: Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l . Heat t o 50C. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n Jaguar C-14 COS. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m and add C i t r i c A c i d Q . S . t o pH 4 . 0 - 4 . 5 . When u n i f o r m . b l end i n P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l , M i r a n o l C2M Conc: N.P. and Rhodapon ES. S1 o w l y b l e n d i n BET-0-30. Shampoo w i 11 t h i c k e n w i t h b e t a i n e a d d i t i o n . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 7 . 0 w i t h C i t r i c Acid. S t e p B: Heat system t o 70-75C and add A l k a m u l s EGMS/C. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m and t h e n a l l o w s y s t e m t o c o o l t o 40-45C and add F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) and P r e s e r v a t i v e . Typical Formulation Properties A m e a r a n c e @ 25C: Pearlescent L i q u i d 6.0-7.0 pH' ( a s i s ) : . 4,000-6,000 CPS V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 19-21 I Non-Vol a t i 1es CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Water, D i s o d i u m Cocoamphodiacetate, Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , G l y c o l S t e a r a t e , O l e a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e , Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e , C i t r i c Acid.

Economy Shampoo (Formula 92-0417) % BY Weight Rhodapex NA61 6.5 A1 kamide DC 212/S 0.4 C e l l o s i z e QP 30,000H ( U n i o n C a r b i d e ) 1 .o F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e q.s. Water 92.1 B l e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and warm t o 45-5OC. W i t h r a p i d , b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s i f t s l o w l y t h e C e l l o s i z e QP 30,000H i n t o h e a t e d w a t e r so as t o a v o i d c l u m p i n g . M i x u n t i l system i s c o m p l e t e l y c l e a r and u n i f o r m . S l o w l y b l e n d Rhodapex NA61, f o l l o w e d by A l k a m i d e DC212/S. Cool t o 40-45C w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . A t 40-45C, add f r a g r a n c e , dye and p r e s e r v a t iv e . Typical Formulation Properties Clear l i q u i d Appearance @ 25C: B r o o k f i e l d RVT #4 s p i n d l e V i s c o s i t y @ 25C ( c p s ) : @ 20 rpm: 1200-1700 Approximate % S o l i d s : 5.3 SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : Formulas

Shampoos

447

Family Shampoo

%w/w Celquat L 200 (Polyquaternium-4) D e i o n i z e d Water Methylparaben B . Quat-Pro S ( S t e a r y l t r i m o n i u m Hydroxyethy Hy d r o ly z e d Collagen) C . TEA-Lauryl S u l f a t e S u p r o - T e i n V (TEA-Cocoyl H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ( a n d ) Sorbi t o 1 ) Cocamide MEA D . Fragrance D o w i c i l 200 (Quaternium-15)

A.

0.10

57.25 0.15 1.a0 30.00 6.00 5.00 0.30 0.20

Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A t o 70C. M i x u n t i l homogeneous. 2 . Add Phase B. M i x t o i n c o r p o r a t e . 3 . Add Phase C . M i x t o i n c o r p o r a t e . 4 . Add Phase D b e l o w 40C. M i x t o i n c o r p o r a t e . Properties: T h i s one shampoo c a n s a t i s f y t h e e n t i r e f a m i l y ' s needs. H a i r i s l e f t c l e a n , r e f r e s h e d , and s o f t t o t h e t o u c h . F o r m u l a #HS-107

Collagen Gel Shampoo % J & B i o t e r g e AS-40 (Sodium C16-18 O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e ) 44.00 3.40 Monami d 150-LW ( L a u r a m i d e D E A ) Dei o n i zed Water 44.60 B . M i r a n o l C2M C o n c e n t r a t e ( D i s o d i u m C o c o a m p h o d i a c e t a t e ) 6.00 C o l l a g e n H y d r o l y z a t e Cosmetic 50 ( H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ) 2 . 0 0 C . Fragrance, p r e s e r v a t i v e , c o l o r q.s. C i t r i c A c i d t o pH 6 . 5 q.s. NaCl q.s.* *q. s , t o desi r e d v i s c o s i t y

A.

Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A t o 60C. M i x c a r e f u l l y u n t i l c l e a r . 2 . Add Phase B . M i x t o i n c o r p o r a t e . 3 . Add Phase C when p r o d u c t i s b e l o w 40C. M i x t o i n c o r p o r a t e . Properties: M i l d , creamy l a t h e r , r i n s e s r e a d i l y f r o m h a i r . A c l e a r g e l p r o t e i n shampoo f o r d e v e l o p i n g body and i m p a r t i n g a c l e a n , natural look. F o r m u l a #HS-105

SOURCE:

Maybrook I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

448

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Frequent-Use Antidandruff Shampoo Plus Conditioner Vanseal CS, Cocoyl S a r c o s i n e , enhances t h e q u a l i t y and q u a n t i t y o f t h e l a t h e r p r o d u c e d by t h e p r i m a r y s u r f a c t a n t , ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e . B o t h a r e m i l d s u r f a c t a n t s t h a t make t h i s shampoo s a f e f o r d a i l y u s e . The f o r m u l a i s t h i c k e n e d w i t h a s y n e r g i s t i c c o m b i n a t i o n o f Veegum HS, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e and H y d r o x y p r o p y l G u a r . The p r i m a r y h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t i s P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 and Z i n c P y r i t h i o n e i s t h e a n t i dandruff agent. Inqredient: A : Veegum HS, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e Dei o n i zed Water C i t r i c Acid H y d r o x y p r o p y l Guar** B:

D e i o n i z e d Water Vanseal CS, Cocoyl S a r c o s i n e * * Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e Polyquaternium-lo***

C:

Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 2 5 % S o l n . ) t o pH 6 . 5 Zinc Pyrithione*** P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, F r a g r a n c e

% by Weipht*

1 .oo

47.35 0.05 1.00 15.00 3.00 30.00 0.50 q.s. 2.10 9,s.

*As R e c e i v e d B a s i s * * J a g u a r HP-60 ***Polymer LR-400 * * * * Z i n c Omadine, 48% D i s p e r s i o n

M i x i ng P r o c e d u r e : Mix t h e Polyquaternium-10 i n t h e P a r t B water u n t i l a c l e a r s o l u t i o n i s a c h i e v e d . Add Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e and Vanseal CS and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m and c l e a r . D e a e r a t e i f n e c e s s a r y . Heat P a r t A w a t e r t o 50C and add Veegum HS w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a t 1800 rpm. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 1 h o u r . Remove f r o m h e a t and a l l o w t h e b a t c h t o c o o l . Add C i t r i c A c i d and t h e n t h e H y d r o x y p r o p y l Guar. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 15 m i n u t e s . Slow t h e m i x e r t o 500 rpm and add t h e p a r t B m i x t u r e C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Add P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Package i n opaque b o t t l e s . Formula P r o p e r t i es: V i s c o s i t y : 7000t-1000 pH: 6 . 5 + - 0 . 2

cps ( B r o o k f i e l d Model LVT a t 60 RPM)

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . ,

I n c . : Formula

No. 456

Shampoos

449

Gentle Shampoo A c l e a r , m o d e r a t e l y v i s c o u s shampoo t h a t p r o v i d e s r i c h , l u b r i c o u s l a t h e r and s o f t n e s s t o t h e h a i r . T h i s pH-balanced f o r m u l a i s e x t r e m e l y g e n t l e and p r o v i d e s e f f e c t i v e c l e a n s i n g without harsh s t r i p p i n g . % by Weight Part A: D e i o n i z e d Water 45.55 Methylparaben 0.20 Lauroamphoglycinate (and) T r i d e c e t h S u l f a t e ( M i r a n o l MHT) 30.00 TEA-Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e ( A m i s o f t CT-12) 20.00 Sodium Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e ( A m i s o f t CS-11) 1.oo PEG-1 50 D i s t e a r a t e 1.50 Sodium PCA ( A j i d e w N - S O ) 1 .oo P a r t 8:

Methylchloroisothiazolinone ( a n d ) M e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e ( K a t h o n CG) F r a g r a n c e ( M o v i l l e #84504) C i t r i c Acid

0.05 0.20 0.50

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat p a r t A t o 65C u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous. Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t B . Color: L i g h t straw-cl ear pH: 5 . 6 5 V i s c o s i t y : 3,750 cps ( # 4 s p i n d l e @ 10 rpm) Conditioning Shampoo Milky cloudy, high viscosity. M a t e r i al/CTFA-Index A : Water T y l o s e H 4000 P / H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e

76.50% 0.80

0 : Comperl an KD/Cocami de DEA Texapon NA/Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e

3.00 16.70

B e l s i l ADM 6057 E/Amodimethicone ( a n d ) T a l l o w t r i m o n ium C h l o r i d e ( a n d ) Nonoxynol-10 P r e s e r v a t ives, f r a g r a n c e s , p i gments Homogenise A w e l l ,

m i x B e l s i l ADM 6057 E .

SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : F o r m u l a t i o n 5 5 1 AH

3.00 q.s.

450

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Repair Shampoo (Shampoo for Damaged Hair)

%w/w Inaredients: 0.1 T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 60.5 Water 10.0 Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e 20.0 Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (2M E . O . ) 1.5 PEG-I8 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e ( A n t i l 171) 5.0 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e L - 7 ) 0.5 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 8851) 1.o Propylene Glycol D i m e t h i c o n e / S o d i u m P o l v PG-ProDvl D i m e t h i c o n e 1.o T h i o s u l f a t e Copolymer- ( A b i l S' 201) 0.4 Q u a t e r n i um-80 ( A b i 1 Quat 3272) Q.S. Color Q.S. Fragrance Q.S. Preservatives t o pH 7 . 0 C i t r i c Acid Q.S. Ammonium C h l o r i d e Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e t h e T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA i n t h e w a t e r . 2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between a d d i t i o n s . A v o i d a i r entrapment. 3 . S l o w l y m i x i n t h e PEG-18 G l y c e r y G1 y c o l D i o l e o c o c o a t e . 4 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h t h e 25% so u t i o n o f Ammonium C h l o r i d e . N o t e : F o r m a n u f a c t u r i n a ease, a 25% s o l u t i o n o f Ammonium C h l o r i d e can be made. . N o t e : SLS/SLES and Sodium C h l o r i d e may be s u b s t i t u t e d f o r t h e ALS/ALES and Ammonium C h l o r i d e . Ethnic Hair Care Cream Conditioning Shampoo

Innredients: %w/w Water 37.6 Sodi um L a u r y l Sul f a t e 45.0 Glyceryl Stearate (Tegin) 3.0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 0.5 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) 0.5 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F) 7.0 Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) 0.4 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) 0.5 Jojoba O i l 0.5 C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l u t i o n ) t o pH 6 . 8 Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ( a n d ) G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( A n t i l HS 6 0 ) 5.0 Q.S. Fragrance Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% s o l u t i o n ) Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Heat t h e w a t e r t o 60-65C. Add t h e Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e , T e g i n , and t h e T e g o s o f t s . M i x u n t i l f u l l y d i s p e r s e d . 2 . B e g i n c o o l i n g . Cool t o 45C. 3 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . 4. Adjust v i s c o s i t y .

SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemlcal C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Shampoos

451

Hair Shampoo With silky lustre effect, 16.5% active ingredient ReciDe: 2.00% Hostapon SCID Sodium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e 53.00% Water 30.00% Genaool LRO l i a u i d Sodium L a u r e t h ' S u l f a t e 5.00% Genapol SBE D i s o d i um L a u r e t h S u l f o s u c c i n a t e 0.30% Perfume 2.00% Genapol L-3 Laureth-3 5.00% Genagen CAB Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e 2.00% Genapol TSM PEG-3 D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e q.s. Dyestuff s o l u t i o n q.s. P r e s e r v a t iv e 0.70% S o d i um c h l o r i d e Procedure: I D i s s o l v e A b y warming s t i r r i n g i n B ( 6 0 C ) . I 1 Cool down and add t h e components o f C a t 35C u n d e r s t i r r i n g . I11 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. I V F i n a l l y adjust the v i s c o s i t y w i t h 0. Formula B I / 2 1 3 0 Hair Shampoo With pearl lustre effect, 19.6% active ingredient Recipe: 5.00% Hostaoon S C I Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e 40.30% Water 2.00% Genapol L-3 Laureth-3 6.00% Genapol AMG Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S u l f a t e 40.00% Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 5.00% Genapol PGL G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Cocamide MEA ( a n d ) PPG-4 Deceth-10 0.30% Perfume q.s. Dyestuff solution q.s. Preservative 1.40% Sodium c h l o r i d e Procedure: I D i s s o l v e A i n warmed B . I 1 One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f C a r e added t o I. 111 Ifn e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. I V F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h D. Formula B I / 2 1 2 8 SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s 8, T o i l e t r i e s

452

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Shampoo Clear, 14.4% active ingredient Reci p e : Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e

A

B

Genapol SBE D i s o d i um L a u r e t h S u l f o s u c c i n a t e Perfume Water Genapol L-3 Laureth-3 Genagen CAB Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e Dyestuff solution Preservative

3 0 . 00%

.

6 0 0%

0.30% 5 5 * 00% 2.00%

5.00% q.s. q.s.

.

C Sodium c h l o r i d e 1 70% Procedure: I One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f B a r e added t o A . I 1 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. 111 F i n a l l y adjust t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h C . Formula B I/1128

Hair Shampoo Clear, 16.9% active ingredient Recipe: A Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e

40.00%

B

Perfume

C

Water

D

Natriumhydroxid

0.20%

E

Hostapon LEC L a u r e t h - 3 C a r b o x y l ic A c i d Genapol L-3 Laureth-3 Dyestuff solution Preservative

4.00%

0 . 30% 52.50%

2.00% q.s. q.s.

F Sodium c h l o r i d e 1 .OO% Procedure: I M i x A and B . I1 Dissolve D i n C. I11 S t i r I1 i n t o I. I V One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f E a r e added t o 1 1 1 . V I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. V I F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h F. Formula B I/1124 SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmetics & T o i l e t r i e s

Shampoos

453

Hair Shampoo With pearl lustre effect, 12.2% active ingredient Reci pe : Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e Water Genapol TS powder PEG-3 D i s t e a r a t e Sodium c h l o r i d e Genagen CAB Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne

A

B

C

35.00%

53.20% 1.50% 1.50%

8.00% q.s.

Dyestuff solution Preservative Perfume

0.30%

Sodium c h l o r i d e

0.50%

9,s.

Procedure: I M e l t t h e components o f A a t 70C. I 1 S t i r u n t i l cool. 111 A t 40C add t h e components o f B t o 11. I V I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. V F i n a l l y adjust the viscosity with C. Formula B I / 2 1 2 4 Hair Shampoo With pearl lustre effect, 16.0% active ingredient Recipe: Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e

A

B

C

Genapol AMG Magnesi um-PEG-3 Cocami de S u l f a t e Genapol PGM c o n c . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( a n d ) G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Cocamide MEA Perfume Water Dyestuff solution Preservative Genagen CAB Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e Sodium c h l o r i d e

40.00% 8.00%

5.00% 0.30% 30.70% q.s. q.s. 6.00% 2.00%

Procedure: I One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f B a r e added t o A . I 1 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. I11 F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h C . Formula B I/2129 SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s

454

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Shampoo Clear, 18.4% active ingredient Recipe: Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e

A

B

C

Hostapon LEC L a u r e t h - 3 C a r b o x y l ic A c i d NaOH ( 5 0 % i n w a t e r ) Perfume Genapol L-3 Laureth-3 Water D-Panthenol Genagen CAB Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne D y e s t u f f s o l u t i on Preservative

35.00%

5.30% 0.70% 0.30% 1 .OO% 40.45% 0.50% 8.00%

q.s. q.s.

Sodium c h l o r i d e

0.75%

Procedure: I One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f B a r e added t o A . I 1 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. I11 F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h C . Formula B I / 1 1 2 6 Hair Shampoo For greasy hair, clear, 19.4% active ingredient Recipe: Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e H o s t a p u r SAS 6 0 Sodium C14-17 Sec. A l k y l S u l f o n a t e Extrapon 5 special Perfume Water Genagen C A B Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e Dyestuff solution Preservative

50.00% 6.00%

3.00% 0.30% 32.70% 6.00%

Sodium c h l o r i d e

q.s. 4,s.

2.00%

Procedure: I One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f B a r e added t o A . I 1 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. I11 F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h C . Formula B I/6123

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : Guide F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s

Shampoos

Hair Shampoo For every day, clear, 15.2% Reci De : Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e Genapol AMG Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S u l f a t e Perfume G e l i t a Sol C Hydrolyzed Collagen Water Dyestuff solution Preservative Genagen CAB Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e Genapol L-3 Lau r e t h-3

455

active ingredient 35.00%

8.00% 0.30% 1 .OO% 43.20% 9,s. q.s. 10.00% 1.00%

Sodium c h l o r i d e 1.50% Procedure: I One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f B a r e added t o A . I 1 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. I11 F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h C . Formula B I / 1 1 1 2 Hair Shampoo For every day, clear, 15.3% active ingredient Recipe: A Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodi um L a u r e t h S u l f a t e B

Genapol AMG Magnesium-PEG-3 Cocamide S u l f a t e Hostapon KCG Sodium Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e Perfume Water Dyestuff solution Preservative Genagen CAB Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e Genapol L-3 Laureth-3

30.00%

a . 00% 5.00%

0.30%

46.70% q.s. q.s.

6.00% 2.00%

C Sodium c h l o r i d e 2.00% Procedure: I One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f B a r e added t o A . I 1 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. 111 F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h C . Formula B I / 6 1 1 9 SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s

456

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Shampoo Mild, for every day, clear, 12.8% active ingredient Recipe: A Genapol LRO l i q u i d 35.00% Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e B Genapol PGC 2.00% G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) L a u r e t h - 4 ( a n d ) Cocamidopropyl Betaine Perfume 0.30% Tocopherol a c e t a t e 0.05% E x t r a p o n sage 0.50% E x t r a p o n blam m i n t 0.50% Honey 0 . 50% E x t r a p o n camomile s p e c i a l 0.50% B e l s i l DMC 6032 0.30% D i m e t h i cone Copol yo1 Dyestuff solution q.s. Preservative 9.s. C Cosmedia Guar C 261 0.20% Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e 53.35% D Water 10.00% E Genagen C A B Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e Sodi urn c h l o r i d e 1.80% Procedure: I One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f B a r e added t o A . I 1 Dissolve C i n D. 111 S t i r I 1 i n t o I. I V I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. V Finally adjust the viscosity with E. Hair Shampoo Clear, 15.8% active ingredient Recipe: A Hostaoon S C I D 2.00% Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e 54.30% B Water 30.00% C Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 5.00% Genapol SBE D i s o d i um L a u r e t h S u l f o s u c c i n a t e 0.30% Perfume 2 00% Genapol L-3 Laureth-3 5.00% Genagen CAB Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne q.s. D y e s t u f f s o l u t i on q.s. Preservative 1.40% D Sodium c h l o r i d e Procedure: I D i s s o l v e A by warming s t i r r i n g i n B ( 6 0 C ) . I 1 Cool down and add t h e components o f C a t 35C under s t i r r i n g . I11 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. I V F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h D. SOURCE: H o e c h s t : Formulas B I / 6 1 4 1 and B I / 1 1 2 7

.

Shampoos

457

Herbal Shampoo, Clear

%w/w Texapon ASV Hexaplant R i c h t e r Water N o t e : WAS 14%, l o w v i s c o u s Formula No. T61-23

50.0 3.0 47.0

Dead Nettle Extract Shampoo, Clear

%w/w Texapon N25/N40 Comperlan KD C e t i o l HE Dead n e t t l e e x t r a c t ( E x t r a c t u m L a m i i A l b i f l u i d ) Water N o t e : WAS 14%, v i s c o u s Formula No. T61-25

30.0 6.0

5.0 0.5 59.0

Fruit Shampoo (Apple) pH-Balanced

%w/w Texapon TH Dehyton AB30 Comperlan KD P a r a v i t a l 9B A p p l e aroma Perfume o i l a p p l e C o l o r s o l u t i o n 2% P i n e n e e d l e g r e e n 5/067114 Water N o t e : WAS 2 0 . 5 % , l o w v i s c o u s , d e s i r e d pH: 5 - 6 Formula No. T61-27

30.0 10.0 2.0 2.0 0.2 0.5 0.1 55.2

Shampoo, Clear, Liquid, Very Acidic

%w/w Texapon A Comperlan KD Sodium c h l o r i d e Sodi urn s u l f a t e C i t r i c acid Water N o t e : WAS 17%, medium v i s c o u s , Formula No. T61-29

40.0 3.0 2.0 2.0 0.2 52.8 d e s i r e d pH: 4 . 0 - 4 . 5

Shampoo with Ampholyte

%w/w Dehyton AB 3 0 Water N o t e : WAS 15%, l o w v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. T61-30

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

50.0 50.0

458

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Herbal Shampoo, Pearly

%w/w Texapon N40 E u p e r l a n PK 810 Cornperlan KD Hexapl a n t R i c h t e r Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 18% F o r m u l a No. T64-62

48.0 5.0 3.0 3.0 1.o 40.0

Mild, Pearly Gloss Shampoo

%w/w Texapon SEN E u p e r l a n PK 810 Comperlan F Sol u v i t - R i c h t e r Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 17% F o r m u l a No. T64-64

30.0 12.0 4.0 2.0 0.5 51 . 5

Shampoo for Dry Hair, With Protein

a/,w/w Hydagen P 2.0 3.0 D e h y t o n A8 3 0 Water 29.0 I 1 Texapon N25 40.0 E u p e r l a n P K 810 5.0 C e t i o l HE 2.0 Sodium c h l o r i d e 2.5 Water 16.5 N o t e : WAS 14% P r e p a r a t i o n : Hydagen P i s homogeneously m i x e d i n D e h y t o n A8 3 0 and w a t e r ( a p p r o x . 60C) and a l l o w e d t o c o o l . The r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s a r e t h e n added. F o r m u l a No. T64-65

I

Protein Shampoo, Very Skin Compatible

s6w/w Texapon K14S spec1 a1 Texapon EVR Dehyton G Hydagen P Water N o t e : WAS 17% F o r m u l a No. T64-66 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

25.0 25.0 5.0 0.5 44.5

Shampoos

459

Keratin Neutralizing Shampoo

%w/w S t e p a n o l AM Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e ) W i t c a m i d e 6 5 9 ( L a u r a m i d e DEA) Amphosol CA Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) Mayphos 5C10 (PPG-5-Ceteth-10 Phosphate) C a t i o n i c Col agen P o l y p e p t i d e s Kera-Quat WKP (Cocodimonium H y d r o x y p r o p y l H y d r o l y z e d Keratin) D e i o n i z e d Water Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e s C i t r i c Acid q.s. t o

40.0 4.0

15.0 5.0 3.0 1.0 32.0 q.s. pH=4

Procedure: M i x a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r e x c e p t t h e C i t r i c A c i d . When homogeneous, add t h e c i t r i c a c i d s l o w l y and w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n t o pH=4. Properties: A h i g h f o a m i n g , m i l d , n e u t r a l i z i n g shampoo. R e s t o r e s body and s h i n e t o damaged h a i r . Two c a t i o n i c p r o t e i n s c o n d i t i o n , p r o t e c t and r e - v i t a l i z e t h e h a i r . C a t i o n i c C o l l a g e n P o l y p e p t i d e , a subs t a n t i v e h i g h molecular weight p r o t e i n , i s very s t a b l e a t low O H ' S and i s o a r t i c u l a r l y e f f e c t i v e a t s e a l i n g and p r o t e c t i n g t h e h a i r . K e r i - Q u a t WKP, a s u b s t a n t i v e q u a t e r n i z e d k e r a t i n , adds back e s s e n t i a1 ami no a c i d s o s t d u r i n g p r o c e s s i n g and i m p r o v e s sh ne and c o m b a b i l i t y . SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n #HS-301 Wheat Germ Conditioning Shampoo Mackol 7 0 N S Mackanate OP Mackanate WGD Mackam WGB C i t r i c A c i d t o pH 5 . 5 Sodi urn C h l o r i d e qs t o v i s c o s i t y = 2 0 0 0 cps Paragon P r e s e r v a t i v e W a t e r , Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o

Weight , % 12.0 20.0 8.0

5.0 9,s. 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add s u r f a c t a n t s t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 6 0 C . 2. Blend u n t i l c l e a r . 3 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 . 4 . Add r e m a i n i n g components and a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium chloride. SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

460

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Liquid Shampoo Slightly yellow, clear, low viscosity Materials/CTFA-Index: B e l s i 1 DMC 6031 / D i m e t h i cone Copol yo1 Water Genapol C R T 40/DEA L a u r y l S u l p h a t e Preservatives, fragrances D i s s o v e B e l s i l DMC 6031 i n w a t e r ,

5.00% 60.00 35.00 9,s.

m i x i n Genapol CRT 40

Tempe a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks Formu a t i o n 222 AH

Shampoo Clear, liquid. Mater 1aljCTFA- I n d e x : B e l s i 1 DMC 6035/Methicone C o p o l y o l A c e t a t e Water Genapol LRO/Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e Comperl an KD/Cocami de D E A Sodium C h l o r i d e Preservatives, fragrances ~

2.00% 56.00 35.00 3.00 2.00 q.s.

D i s s o l v e B e l s i l DMC 6035 i n w a t e r , m i x i n Genapol LRO. Add Comperlari K D , r e g u l a t e t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h N a C l . Temperature s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 284 AH

Shampoo Clear, high-viscosity. Shampoo with good conditioning effect Mat e r i al[_CTFA - I nd e x : Hoe S 3267/Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e Water B e l s i 1 ADM 6042 E/Amodi m e t h i cone and Emu1s i f i e r Texapon NA/Arnmonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e Ammoni urn Chl o r i de Preservatives, fragrances

2 2 . 50% 50.00 4.00 22.50 1

.oo

q.s.

D i s s o l v e HOE S 3267 i n w a t e r , m i x i n t h e amodimethicone and e m u l s i f i e r . Add t h e ammonium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e a n d a d j u s t t o t h e d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y w i t h t h e ammonium c h l o r i d e . F o r m u l a t i o n 541 AH S O U R C E : Wacker S i l i c o n e :

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Shampoos

461

Mild, Clear Shampoo

Component: P l a n t a r e n PS 10 15.0 Lamepon S 15.0 G1 u a d i n Almond 1.o NaCl 2.0 Perfume o i l q.s. Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e up t o 100 pH-value: 6 , 5 WAS: 15 V i s c o s i t y mPas: 1 0 0 0 0 H i n t : K i n d and amount o f p e r f u m e may i n f l u e n c e t h e v i s c o s i t y o f the product. F o r m u l a t i o n No. : 92/184/2 Pearlescent Shampoo with Protein Component: % P l a n t a r e n PS 10 17.0 N u t r i l a n 1-50 2.0 G l y c e r i n 86% 1.o E u p e r l a n PK 900 3.0 Perfume o i l q.s NaCl 2.2 Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e up t o 100 pH v a l u e : 5 , 5 WAS: 1 0 V i s c o s i t y mPas: 1500 H i n t : K i n d and amount o f p e r f u m e may i n f l u e n c e t h e v i s c o s l t y o f the product. F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 92/184/40 Pearlescent Shampoo with Protein

% P1a n t a r e n 1200 6.0 Texapon N 7 0 11 . 0 N u t r i l a n 1-50 2.0 E u p e r l a n PK 3000-AM 1.o NaCl 3.0 Perfume 9,s. Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e up t o 100 pH-value: 5 , 5 WAS: 11% V i s c o s i t y mPas: 4500 H i n t : K i n d and amount o f p e r f u m e may i n f l u e n c e t h e v i s c o s i t y o f the product. F o r m u l a t i o n No. : 9 0 / 1 3 9 / 4 4

SOURCE: H e n k e l KGaA: Model F o r m u l a e

462

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Mild Conditioning Shampoo Inaredients: %w/w T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 0.1 Water 45.0 Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (30%) 18.0 Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (30%) 25.0 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e L-7) 4.0 Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3 2 7 2 ) 0.3 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l 8 8852) 0.3 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i 1 B 88183) 0.3 C i t r i c Acid t o pH 6 . 5 Fragrance Q.S. Color Q.S. Preservative Q.S. Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ( a n d ) G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( A n t i l HS 60) 4.0 G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r a t h - 4 (Tego P e a r l N 100) 3.0 Ammonium C h l o r i d e (25% s o l u t i o n ) As needed t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e t h e T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA i n t h e w a t e r . 2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between a d d i t i o n s . A v o i d a i r entrapment. 3. S l o w l y m i x i n t h e A n t i l HS 6 0 . M i x u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . 4 . Add t h e Tego P e a r l N 100. 5. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h t h e 25% s o l u t i o n o f Ammonium C h l o r i d e Conditioning Shampoo for Treated Hair 46w/w Inaredients: 0.1 T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 41 . 5 Water 20.0 Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (30%) 25.0 Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (30%) 7.0 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e L-7) 0.3 Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) 0.3 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 8851) 0.3 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) 1 .o D i m e t h i cone P r o p y l PG-Betai ne ( A b i 1 B 9950) t o pH 6 . 5 C i t r i c Acid Q.S. Fragrance Q.S. Color Q.S. Preservative 1.5 PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e ( A n t i l 171) G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r e t h - 4 (Tego P e a r l N 100) 3.0 Ammonium C h l o r i d e (25% s o l u t i o n ) As needed t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e t h e T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA i n t h e w a t e r . 2. Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between a d d i t i o n s . A v o i d a i r entrapment. 3. S l o w l y m i x i n t h e PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e . M i x u n t i l di spersed. 4. Add t h e p e a r l i n g m i x t u r e . 5 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h t h e 25% s o l u t i o n o f Ammonium C h l o r i d e .

SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Shampoos

463

Milk Powder Shampoo

%w/w Texapon SG Comperlan KD M i l k powder Water N o t e : WAS 14%, v i s c o u s Formula No. T64-31

50.0 3.0 2.0 45.0

Shampoo, with Collagen, Pearly

%w/w Texapon I E S C u t i n a AGS C o l l a g e n CLR M i l k powder Water N o t e : AS 34%, WAS 30%, h i g h v i s c o u s Formula No. T64-33

50.0 4.0 3.0 3.0 40.0

Sulfur Shampoo, Pearly

%w/w Texapon EVR A e r o s i l 200 Sulfur, precipitated Water N o t e : WAS 21%, h i g h v i s c o u s Formula No. T64-34

60.0 3.0 3.0 34.0

Sulfur Shampoo, Pearly

%w/w Texapon SG Texapon MLS Comperlan KD Bioschwefel-Fluid Water N o t e : WAS 15%, v i s c o u s Formula No. T64-35

20.0 20.0 4.0 3.0 53.0

Pearly Gloss Shampoo with Protein

%w/w I Hydagen P Texapon EVR I 1 Texapon EVR

5.0 15.0 15.0 64.5 0.5

Water Sodium c h l o r i d e N o t e : WAS 11%, v i s c o u s P r e p a r a t i o n : Phase I i s homogeneously m i x e d a t 50-60C and c o o l e d a g a i n b e f o r e t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s a r e added one a f t e r another. Formula No. T64-36

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

464

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Non-Silicone Conditioning Shampoo P a t i o n i c 138C PPG M a s i l SF 60,000 R i t a p e g 150 DS R i t a EGDS W i t c o n a t e SXS D i s t i 11 ed Water B i o t e r g e AS-40 Kathon CG

Wt% 8.00 1.oo 2.00 3.00 2.00 46.45 37.50 0.05

pH: 6 . 4 V i s c o s i t y : 24,500 cps Foam H20 Foam ( M i n u t e s ) : 0.0 400 75 1.o 400 100 400 100 3.0 Wet Combing: s l i g h t l y d i f f i c u l t D r y Combing: e a s y , e x c e p t where k n o t s a r e S t a b i 1 it i e s : Freeze/Thaw: no change a f t e r 3 c y c l e s 4 0 F : s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 2 weeks l l O F : no change a f t e r 6 weeks C e n t i f u g e R e s u l t s : s e p a r a t e s a f t e r 30 m i n . @ 5000 rpm D e s c r i p t i o n o f System: w i t h s i l i c o n e / n o R i t a v e n a 5 F o r m u l a 114-2 Non-Silicone Conditioning Shampoo

Wt%

P a t i o n i c 122A PPG M a s i l SF 60,000 R i t a p e g 150 DS R i t a EGDS D i s t i 1 l e d Water B i o t e r g e AS-40 Kathon CG

11 . o o 1 .oo 2 .oo 3.00 45.45 37.50 0.05

pH: 5 . 7 V i s c o s i t v : 1 2 , 0 0 0 CCJS Foam (Mi h u t e s j : Foam H20 0.0 310 75 1.o 310 100 3.0 310 100 Wet Combing: s l i g h t l y d i f f i c u l t D r y Combing: easy, e x c e p t where k n o t s a r e Freeze/Thaw: no change a f t e r 3 c y c l e s 40F: no change a f t e r 6 weeks 11OF: no change a f t e r 6 weeks C e n t r i f u g e R e s u l t s : s e p a r a t e s a f t e r 20 m i n . @ 5000 rpm D e s c r i p t i o n o f System: w i t h s i l i c o n e / n o R i t a v e n a 5 F o r m u l a 11 4-4 SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : R i t a v e n a 5 Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Shampoos

Non-Silicone Conditioning Shampoo P a t i o n i c 122A R i t a p e g 150 DS R i t a EGDS Propylparaben D i s t i 11 ed Water B i o t e r g e AS-40 Methylparaben Ritavena 5 Kathon CG pH: 5.7 V i s c o s i t y : 12,500 c p s Foam ( M i n u t e s ) : Foam

0.0 1 ;o 3.0

340 340 340

465

Wt%

1 1 .oo 2.00 3.00 0.05 44.10 37.50 0.15 2.00 0.20

H20 75 100 100

Wet Combing: s l i g h t l y d i f f i c u l t D r y Combing: easy, e x c e p t where k n o t s a r e S t a b i 1 it i e s : Freeze/Thaw: no change a f t e r 3 c y c l e s 40F: no change a f t e r 6 weeks 11OF: s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 24 h o u r s C e n t r i f u g e R e s u l t s : s e p a r a t e s a f t e r 10 m i n . C 5000 rpm D e s c r i p t i o n o f System: w i t h o u t s i l i c o n e / w i t h R i t a v e n a 5 F o r m u l a 1 1 4-42 Non-Silicone Conditioning Shampoo P a t i o n i c 138C R i t a p e g 150 DS R i t a EGDS W i t c o n a t e SXS Propylparaben D i s t i 11 ed Water B i o t e r g e AS-40 Methylparaben Ritavena 5 Kathon CG pH: 6 . 7 V i s c o s i t y : 35,000 c p s Foam ( M i n u t e s ) : Foam

0.0 1 .o 3.0

370 360 360

Wt% 8.00 2.00 3.00 2.00 0.05 45.10 37.50 0.15 2.00 0.20

H20 75 100 100

Wet Combing: v e r y d i f f i c u l t D r y combing: v e r y easy S t a b i 1 it i e s : Freeze/Thaw: no change a f t e r 3 c y c l e s 40F: no change a f t e r 6 weeks llOF: no change a f t e r 6 weeks Centrifuge Results: not run D e s c r i p t i o n o f System: no s i l i c o n e / w i t h R i t a v e n a 5 Formula 1 1 4-43 SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : RITAVENA 5 Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

466

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Oil Shampoo in Clear Form

%w/w Texapon N25/N40 C e t i o l HE Sodi um c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 14%, v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. T66-01

50.0 10.0 3.0 37.0

Oil Shampoo in Clear Form

%w/w Texapon N25/N40 Aethoxal B Comperlan KD Water N o t e : WAS 17%, ow v scous F o r m u l a No. T66 03

50.0 20.0 3.0 27.0

Mink Oil Shampoo, Clear

%w/w Texapon MG C e t i o l HE Mink o i l Water N o t e : WAS 14%, l o w v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. T66-05

50.0 10.0 0.5 39.5

Oil S h a m p o o , P e a r l y

%w/w Texapon E V R C e t i o l HE Water N o t e : WAS 18%, v i s c o u s Formula No. T67-02

50.0 10.0 40.0

Oil Shampoo, Pearly

%w/w Texapon SG Texapon I E S Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 17%, v i s c o u s Formula No. T67-04

40.0 15.0 2.0 43.0

Oil Shampoo with Egg, Pearly

%w/w Texapon E V R C e t i o l HE Egg y o l k , l i q u i d , t e c h n . Water N o t e : WAS 18%, medium v i s c o u s Formula N o . T67-06 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

50.0 5.0 0.5 44.5

Shampoos

467

Paste Shampoo (Formula 9-0204) % By W e i Q h t Rhodapon SB 8208s 50.0 A l k a m i d e DS 280/S 3.0 A1 kamul s EGMS 2.5 S t e a r i c A c i d TP 7.5 Sodium H y d r o x i d e (50% A q . ) 2.1 Cheelox 100 (Dow) 0.1 Fragrance, Dye(s), P r e s e r v a t i v e Q.S. Water 34.8 B l e n d i n c l P r o c e d u r e : Combine Sodium H y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n , Cheelox 100, and w a t e r and h e a t t o 65-70C. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n s l o w l y b l e n d S t e a r i c A c i d TP i n t o system. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . S l o w l y b l e n d Rhodapon SB 8208s i n t o system. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , h e a t system t o 70-75C. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n A l k a m i d e OS 280/S and A l k a m u l s EGMS. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m and t h e n c o o l t o 40-45C w i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n . Add c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e . Typical Formulation Properties: Appearance @ 25C*: F i rm, Opaque/Pearlescent Paste % Non V o l a t i l e s : 27.5-30.5 CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Water, Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e , S t e a r i c A c i d , S t e a r a m i d e DEA, G l y c o l S t e a r a t e , Sodium H y d r o x i d e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA, D y e ( s ) . *Note: F i n a l f o r m u l a t i o n c o n s i s t e n c y w i l l be r e a c h e d a f t e r s t a n d i n g 7-10 d a y s . Self Adjusting Shampoo (Formula 82-0206M) % Bv W e i q h t 40.0 RhodaDon LT-6 A1 kamide DL-207/S 2.2 M i r a t a i n e TM 3.0 M e t h o c e l E4M Premium (Dow) 0.7 Cheelox 100 (Dow) 0.2 C i t r i c Acid O S . t o pH 6-7 Q.S. F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 5 - 1 .O Water 53.2 B l e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and warm t o 35-4OC. W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t M e t h o c e l E4M Premium i n t o h e a t e d w a t e r . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , c o n t i n u e h e a t i n g t o 50-55C and b l e n d i n Rhodapon LT-6, A l k a m i d e DL-207/S, and M i r a t a i n e TM. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , b l e n d i n Cheelox 100 and t h e n c o o l t o 35-4OC. A d j u s t t h e f o r m u l a t i o n pH t o 6-7 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d a s needed and add c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t t h e f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 3,000-5,000 c p s w i t h t h e j u d i c i o u s a d d i t i o n o f Sodium C h l o r i d e a s needed. TvDical Formulation P r o p e r t i e s Appearance @ 25C: Clear L i q u i d 6-7 pH : V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 3,000-5,000 CPS % Non V o l a t i l e s : 20-22 SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : Formulas

468

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pearled Acid Balanced Geropon T-77 Shampoo (Formula 91-1114) % Bv Weight

Rhodapon L-22 HNC Geropon T-77 A1 kamul s EGMS/C Fragrance, Dye(s), Ammoni um C h l o r i d e Water

Preservative

53.6 3.0 1.0 Q.S. 0.0-0.5 Q.S.

B1 e n d i na P r o c e d u r e : Charge t a n k w i t h w a t e r and Rhodapon L-22 HNC, s t a r t h e a t i n g and m i x i n g . Add Geropon T-77 and A l k a m u l s EGMS/C and h e a t (65-7OC) and m i x u n t i l c l e a r ( A l k a m u l s EGMS/C m e l t e d ) . C o o l . Add f r a g r a n c e , dye and p r e s e r v a t i v e a t 35C. T h i c k e n p r o d u c t , i f d e s i r e d , w i t h ammonium c h l o r i d e . A d j u s t pH, i f d e s i r e d , w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Tvpical Formulation Properties P e a r l ed L i q u i d Appearance I3 25C: V i s c o s i t y P 25C: 2,000-4,000 C P S 6-7 pH : 19-21 % Non V o l a t i l e : CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Water, Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e , Sodium M e t h y l O l e o y l T a u r a t e , G l y c o l S t e a r a t e , Ammonium C h l o r i d e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e and Dye.

Clear, Geropon T-77 Shampoo Formula 92-0301 % B y Weight

Rhodapon LSB Geropon T-77 F r a g r a n c e , dye, p r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

50.0 2.0

Q.S. 1 .5-2.0

Q.S.

B1 e n d i na P r o c e d u r e : Charge w a t e r and Rhodapon LSB i n t o m i x i n g t a n k . Add Geropon T-77, m i x and h e a t u n t i l c l e a r . ( H e a t i n g w i l l speed d i s s o l u t i o n , b u t p r o d u c t can b e p r e p a r e d a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e . ) Cool t o 35C and add f r a g r a n c e , dye and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Add sodium c h l o r i d e t o thicken. T y p i c a l Formul a t i on P r o p e r t i e s Appearance a t 25C: Clear l i q u i d pH P 25C: 7.2-7.8 Viscosity 25C: 2,000-4,000 C P S % Nonvolatile: 18-20 CTFA I d e n t i f ic a t i on : W a t e r , Sodi um L a u r v l S u l f a t e , Sodi um M e t h v l 01 e o v l T a u r a t e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , - Dye.

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : Formulas

Shampoos

469

Pearlescent Shampoo with Hydrolyzed Almond Protein Component: P1a n t a r e n 1200 Dehyton K G l u a d i n Almond Keltrol T Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e pH-value: 5 , 5 WAS: 1 2 V i s c o s i t y mPas : 6500 H i n t : K i n d and amoun 0 p e r f u m e may i n f the product. F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 90/139/52

% 8 27.0 2.0 1. o q.s t o 100

.o

UP

ience t h e v i s c o s i t y o f

Mild, Pearlescent Shampoo with Protein

Component: % Texapon K 14 S s p e z . 27 P1 a n t a r e n 2000 5.0 N u t r i l a n 1-50 2.0 E u p e r l a n PK 3 0 0 0 - A M 3.0 Arlypon F 3.0 NaCl 0.5 Perfume q.s Water, p r e s e r v a t ive u p t o 100 V i s c o i t y mPas: 4000 WAS : 0 pH-va u e : 6 , 5 H i n t : K i n d and amount o f p e r f u m e may i n f l u e n c e t h e v i s c o s i t y o f the product. Formu a t i o n N o . : 92/087/57

.E

Pearlescent Shampoo % Component: Texapon ALS 23 4.0 P1 a n t a r e n 2000 Dehyton K 7.0 Lamesoft 156 5.0 Monomuls 90-L 1 2 1. o NaCl 0.2 Perfume q.s Water, p t e s e r v a t i ve up t o 100 pH-Val u e : 5 , 5 WAS: 11% V i s c o s i t y mPas: 14900 H i n t : K i n d and amount o f p e r f u m e may i n f l u e n c e t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h e product. F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 92/087/78

.<

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Model F o r m u l a e

470

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pearlized Mink Shampoo P e a r l e s c e n t f o r m u l a t i o n s a r e t h e e a s i e s t way t o i n t r o d u c e "heavy d u t y " h a i r c o n d i t i o n e r s such as u n s a t u r a t e d Emulan O i l o f M i n k i n t o shampoos. T h i s f o r m u l a i s p a r t i c u l a r l y r i c h , c o n t a i n i n g Soya S t e r o l as w e l l . The G l y c o l S t e a r a t e p r o v i d e s a p e a r l e s c e n c e t h a t can be d r a m a t i c a l l y enhanced by a d d i n g co o r .

Wt.%= Water Generol 122E5 Cerasynt I P Emulan, L i g h t F r a c t i o n Standapol A

45.8 1.0 1.5 1.5 30.0

S t a n d a p o l EA-2

15.0

Laurami de DEA T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Perfume, P r e s e r v a t i v e

PEG5 soya s t e r o G l y c o l s t e a r a t e SE Mink O i l Ammonium L a u r y l Sulfate Ammonium L a u r e t h Sulfate

5.0 0.2 q.s.

Procedure: Heat w a t e r t o 55C, add t o i t t h e soya s t e r o l , m i n k o i l , and g l y c o l s t e a r a t e . S t i r u n t i l t h e y m e l t and d i s p e r s e . Then add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s ( a t RT) i n t h e sequence shown.

SOURCE: Emulan,

Inc.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Low Irritation Shampoo Inqredients: H20, D e i o n i z e d H e t a i ne CLA (Canolami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e S t a n d a p o l ES-2 H e t s o r b L-80 (PEG-80 S o r b i t a n L a u r a t e P1 a n t a r e n 2000 Kathon CG Specifications pH: 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y #3/12:

5000 cps

Procedure: I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e combine a l l mixing u n t i l uniform.

SOURCE:

Heterene,

% 55.68 9.50 22.50 4.75 7.50 0.07

Inc.:

Formula HS 93-84

ingredients while

Shampoos

471

Pearly Gloss Fruit Shampoo (Apple) pH-Balanced

%w/w Texapon N70 15.0 Comperlan KD 1.o E u p e r l a n PK771 5.0 I 1 Sodium c h l o r i d e 2.4 Water 7.6 I11 A p p l e aroma 0.2 0.3 Perfume o i 1 a p p l e U r a n i n AP c o l o r s o l u t i o n 2% 3.0 P i n e n e e d l e g r e e n 5/067114 c o l o r s o l u t i o n 2% 1. o 64.5 Water N o t e : WAS 14%, v i s c o u s , d e s i r e d pH 5-6 P r e p a r a t i o n : Phase I i s p r e - m i x e d . The sodium c h l o r i d e w h i c h has been p r e - d i s s o l v e d i n a s m a l l q u a n t i t y o f w a t e r i s t h e n added. W h i l e c o n t i n u o u s l y s t i r r i n g , t h e w a t e r i s g r a d u a l l y i n c o r p o r a t e d and t h e n t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s a r e added. Formula No. T64-45 I

Acidic Shampoo, Pearly

%w/w Texapon A Comperlan KD E u p e r l a n PK 771 Sodium c h l o r i d e C i t r i c acid Water N o t e : WAS 18%, v i s c o u s , d e s i r e d pH 4-5 Formula No. T64-47

40.00 3.00 3.00 4.00 0.15 49.85

Anti-Dandruff Shampoo, Pearly

%w/w 45.0 Texapon N 4 0 2.5 Comperlan KD 3.0 E u p e r l a n PK 776 1.o I 1 Omadine MDS 2.0 Water 2.0 I11 Sodium c h l o r i d e 44.5 Water N o t e : WAS 16%, v i s c o u s , d e s i r e d pH 6-7, l i g h t - p r o t e c t e d p a c k a g i n g P r e p a r a t i o n : Omadine MDS i s mixed t o a p a s t e w i t h w a t e r and d i s s o l v e d i n t h e p r e - m i x e d phase I w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Then t h e remai n i ng i n g r e d i e n t s a r e added. Formula No. T64-48

I

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model F o r m u l a e

472

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pearly Gloss Shampoo with Protein, Slightly Acidic

%w/w I Hydagen P

2.0 Texapon MLS 2.0 Water 70C 20.0 I 1 Texapon EVR 30.0 Texapon MLS 8.0 C i t r i c a c i d 10% s o l u t i o n 1.3 Water 35.7 Sodium c h l o r i d e 1.o N o t e : WAS 1446, s l i g h t l y a c i d i c , v i s c o u s P r e p a r a t i o n : Phase I i s homogeneously mixed a t 60-70C and c o o l e d a g a i n b e f o r e t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s a r e added one a f t e r another. F o r m u l a No. T64-37 Shampoo with Azulene, Pearly

%w/w Texapon SG Texapon MLS Comperlan KD A z u l ene Water N o t e : WAS 20%, medium v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. T64-38

40.0 20.0 4.0 0.1 35.9

Pearly Gloss Shampoo, Softening

%w/w Texapon EVR Texapon I E S P o l y q u a r t H81 Water N o t e : WAS 2046, AS 2346, v i s c o u s Formula No. T64-40

40.0 10.0 5.0 45.0

Special Shampoo for Dry Hair

%w/w Texapon N25/N40 Texapon SG Comperlan KD Comperlan KM S o l u l a n 98 V i t a m i n F, w a t e r - s o l u b l e CLR Water N o t e : WAS 1 3 % , v i s c o u s Formula No. T64-41

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

10.0 20.0

3.0 5.0 1.o 0.5 60.5

Shampoos

473

Professional Formula Conditioning Shampoo Inqredients: %w/w T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 0.1 Water 45.6 Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (30%) 35.0 Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (30%) 10.0 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e L - 7 ) 7.0 Q u a t e r n i um-80 ( A b i 1 Quat 3272) 0.3 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 8851) 0.3 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) 0.3 C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l EM-90) 0.4 C i t r i c Acid t o pH 6 . 5 Fragrance Q.S. Color Q.S. Preservative Q.S. PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e ( A n t i 1 171) 1.o Ammonium C h l o r i d e (25% s o l u t i o n ) As needed t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e t h e T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA i n t h e w a t e r . 2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between a d d i t i o n s . A v o i d a i r entrapment. 3 . S l o w l y m i x i n t h e PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e . 4 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h t h e 25% s o l u t i o n o f Ammonium C h l o r i d e

SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a Tear Free 2:1 Shampoo Mackam 2C Mackol 70NS L i p o s o r b P-20 Mackernium 0 0 7 Mackal ene 426 M a c k e s t e r EGDS Paragon p r e s e r v a t i v e C i t r i c Acid Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e q s t o

Wei q h t , % 27.0 15.0 4.0 2.5 2.0 1.6 q.s q s t o pH 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add Mackernium 007 t o w a t e r and b l e n d u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s persed. 2 . Add Mackam 2C, L i p o s o r b P-20 and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 3 . Add Mackalene 426 and h e a t t o 70C. 4 . When t h e Mackalene 426 i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d , s l o w l y add Mackol 70NS. 5 . B l e n d u n t i l p r o d u c t i s homogeneous. 6 . Add M a c k e s t e r EGDS and b l e n d u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . 7 . Cool t o 50C and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 8 . Add Paragen p r e s e r v a t i v e , dye and f r a g r a n c e . 9 . Cool and f i l l SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

474

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Re-Nu Shampoo for Thinning Hair

sbw/w A.

D e i o n i z e d Water Monamid 150-LW ( L a u r a m i d e DEA) S t e p a n o l WAT (TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e )

8. S i p o n ES-2 (Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ) Aqua-Tein C ( C o l l a g e n Amino A c i d s and Acetamide MEA and P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ) Amphosol CA (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) D i s o d i um EDTA

C.

Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e C i t r i c A c i d , t o pH 5 . 5

49.70 4.00 15.00 25.00

2.00

4.00 0.30 S. S.

Procedure: 1 . M i x and h e a t Phase A u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . 2 . Add Phase B t o Phase A w i t h m i x i n g . 3 . M i x and c o o l t o 50C. Add Phase C . * * T o t a l s u r f a c t a n t s o l i d s can b e r e d u c e d i f d e s i r e d , and Sod um C h l o r i d e added t o m a i n t a i n v i s c o s i t y . P r o p e r t ies : A r i c h , m i l d , v i s c o u s shampoo w i t h a s p e c i a l l y f o r m u l a t e d blend o f g e n t l e c l e a n s i n g agents which clean t h i n n i n g h a i r g e n t l y , b u t e f f e c t i v e l y w h i l e a d d i n g body and m a n a g e a b i l i t y . C l e a n s w i t h o u t damaging d e l i c a t e or t h i n n i n g h a i r . Aqua-Tein C i s a m o i s t u r e - b i n d i n g complex o f amino a c i d s and Acetamide MEA which maintain t h e moisture content o f t h e h a i r . Moist h a i r has b e t t e r t e n s i l e s t r e n g t h and a p p e a r s t o have an i n c r e a s e d volume and f u l l n e s s . Aqua-Tein C i s a l s o an e f f e c t i v e a n t i i r r i t a n t and adds t o t h e g e n t l e n e s s o f t h e f o r m u l a .

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : F o r m u l a #HS-203 Neutralizer Shampoo Mackanate OM Mackol 70NS Mackami ne CAO Mackami ne WGO Paragon P r e s e r v a t i v e Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e q s t o Procedure: 1 . Add s u r f a c t a n t s t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 50C. 2. Blend u n t i l c l e a r . 3 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 4. Add dye, p r e s e r v a t i v e , f r a g r a n c e and c o o l .

SOURCE: M c l n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Wei a h t ,% 30.0

10.0

6.0 2.0 q.s. 100.0

Shampoos

475

Shampoo D e i o n i z e d Water 5 6 . 18% Phoenate SLES-70 (Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ) 23.00 3.50 Phoenami d LD ( L a u r a m i de D E A ) P h o e n a t e r i c CAB ( C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) 2.00 P e c o s i 1 SSP ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy P r o t e i n / 2.00 DCP Copol ymer) C i t r i c A c i d (loo/, A q . ) 2.54 8 Glycerin 4.00 Methylparaben 0.30 Propylparaben 0.10 C B l u e # I ( 0 . 0 0 5 % Aq. ) 0.05 Y e l l o w #5 ( 1 . 0 % A q . ) 0.03 D D e i o n i z e d Water 5.00 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.70 P o t a s s i um S o r b a t e 0.10 Panthenol 0.50 Procedure: Add Phoenate SLES-70 t o phase Lj w a t e r w i t h a d e q u a t e a g i t a t i o n . When t h e s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r , add t h e r e m a i n i n g phase A i t e m s i n o r d e r . Combine phase i t e m s and h e a t and a g i t a t e t o s o l u b i l i z e t h e p a r a b e n s . When t h e p a r a b e n s a r e i n s o l u t i o n , add phase B t o phase A w i t h a d e q u a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add phase C to w i t h sweep a g i t a t i o n . Combine phase Q i t e m s u n d e r p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . When a c l e a r s o l u t i o n i s o b t a i n e d , add phase D t o ABC u n d e r sweep a g i t a t i o n . Sweep liBc_z, u n t i l u n i f o r m . F o r m u l a 14-62-8

A

Conditioning Shampoo D e i o n i z e d Water 57.80% Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( P h o e n a t e SLES-70) 20 * 0 0 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e 1 .60 Cocami d o p r o p y l d i m e t h y l ami n e D i m e t h i cone Copol yo1 2.00 S i l i c o n e Q u a t e r n i u m - 9 ( P e c o s i l CAP-1240) Decyl Po l y g l u c o s e 8.00 L a u r a m i d e DEA (Phoenamid LD) 2.00 PEG-3 D i s t e a r a t e ( P h o e n a t e 3DSA) 2.40 0.80 Sodium C h l o r i d e PEG-1 2 0 M e t h y l G1 u c o s e D i o l e a t e 2.40 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l Phosphate ( P e c o s i l PS-100) 2.00 8 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l Urea ( a n d ) 1.oo Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben Color q.s. Fragrance q.s. 10% Aqueous C i t r i c A c i d S o l u t i o n a d j u s t t o pH 5 . 0 - 6 . 0 Procedure: Combine Phase Lj i t e m s , a g i t a t e and h e a t t o 70C. When Phase A i s u n i f o r m , b e g i n c o o l i n g u n d e r s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n t o 45C. Add Phase u n d e r c o n t i n u e d s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n . When i s u n i f o r m , a d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 - 6 . 0

A

SOURCE: P h o e n i x Chemical Co

I

,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

476

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shampoo, Aerosol-Packed

%w/w Texapon N25/N40 Comperlan K O Water N o t e : WAS 17% F i l l i n g : 92 p a r t s shampoo 8 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t 12/114 ( 4 0 : 6 0 ) Formula No. T71-01

50.0 3.0 47.0

Shampoo Mousse Texapon N40 Texapon MLS Dehyton K Water N o t e : WAS 19% F i l l i n g : 92 p a r t s shampoo 8 parts propellant, Formula No. T71-02

40.0 20.0 5.0

35.0 F r i g e n 12

Shampoo in Aerosol Form Texapon K14S s p e c i a1 Comperlan LS Water N o t e : WAS 17% F i l l i n g : 92 p a r t s shampoo 8 parts propellant, F o r m u l a No. T71-03

50.0 3.0 47.0

F r i g e n 12

Baby Shampoo in Aerosol Form

%w/w Texapon ASV Dehyton G Water N o t e : WAS 16% F i l l i n g : 92 p a r t s shampoo 8 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t , F r i g e n 12 F o r m u l a No. T71-04

50.0

5.0 45.0

Shampoo in Powder Form, Surfactant-Free

36w/w Dehydazol A400P Wheat s t a r c h Magnesi um c a r b o n a t e Talc Borax Sodium c h l o r i d e Dry perfume N o t e : no WAS, powder F o r m u l a No. T81-01

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

5.0 39.0 12.5 12.5 5.0 25.0 1.o

Shampoos

477

Shampoo, Clear, Liquid

%w/w Texapon N25/N40 Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 11%, medium v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. T61-01

40.0 4.0 56.0

Shampoo, Clear, Liquid

%w/w Sodium c h l o r i d e 4.5 Water 6.5 I 1 Texapon N70 14.0 I 1 1 Water 75.0 N o t e : WAS IO%, medium v i s c o u s P r e p a r a t i o n : The sodium c h l o r i d e must b e d i s s o l v e d i n t h e s m a l l e s t p o s s i b l e amount o f w a t e r i n o r d e r t o o b t a i n a s a t u r a t e d s a l i n e s o l u t i o n . The s o l u t i o n i s t h e n s t i r r e d i n t o t h e u n d i l u t e d Texapon N70. The r e s t o f t h e w a t e r i s t h e n g r a d u a l l y added. F i n a l l y , t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e i s added. Formula No. T61-03

I

Shampoo, Clear, Liquid

96w/w Texapon MLS Comperlan F Water N o t e : WAS 20%, medium v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. T61-05

50.0

3.5 46.5

Shampoo, Clear, Liquid

%w/w Texapon I E S Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 20%, v i s c o u s Formula No. T 6 1 - 0 6

40.0 4.0 56.0

Shampoo, Clear, Liquid

%w/w Texapon NA Comperlan KD Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 15%, h i g h v i s c o u s Formula N o . T61-07 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model F o r m u l a e

50.0 3.0 0.5

46.5

478

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shampoo, Clear, Liquid

%w/w Texapon NT Comperlan LS Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 17%, medium v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. T61-08

40.0 3.0 1.0 56.0

Shampoo, with Hair-Care Effect

%w/w Texapon N25/N40 D e h y t o n AB 30 P o l y q u a r t H81 Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : AS 15%, WAS 13%, medium v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. T61-10

40.0 5.0 5.0 1.5 48.5

Shampoo for Daily Use

%w/w Texapon N25/N40 Comperlan KD P o l y q u a r t H81 Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : AS 11%, WAS 9%, v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. T61-12 Shampoo for Daily Use

25.0 2.0

3.0 3.0 67.0

%w/w 30.0 2.0 3.0 65.0

Texapon K 4s s p e c . Comperl an LS Sodium c h 0 ide Water N o t e : WAS 1 36, v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. T61-14 Anti-dandruff Shampoo

I

%w/w

Texapon N25/N40 45.0 Comperlan KD 2.5 Water 10.0 I 1 Omadine MDS 1 .o Water 2.0 I 1 1 Sodium c h l o r i d e 2.0 Water 37.5 N o t e : WAS 15%, pH 6-7, l i g h t - p r o t e c t e d p a c k a g i n g P r e p a r a t i o n : Texapon N25 and Comperlan KD a r e p r e - m i x e d . P a r t o f t h e w a t e r i s t h e n added. Omadine MDS i s m i x e d w i t h a s m a l l q u a n t i t y o f w a t e r t o a p a s t e , t h e n s t i r r e d i n t o above m i x t u r e . The r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s a r e t h e n added. F o r m u l a No. T61-15

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

Shampoos

479

Shampoo in Cream Form

"/,w/w Texapon C S p a s t e Comperlan KM N o t e : WAS 57%, p a s t e Formula No. T65-01

95.0 5.0

Shampoo in Cream Form

%w/w I

Texapon LS h i g h l y c o n c . n e e d l e s 15.0 S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2 SM 10.0 Comperl an 100 2.0 Dehydol 100 D E 0 1.o Triethanolamine 5.0 Sodium c h l o r i d e 2.0 Water 65.0 N o t e : WAS 30%, p a s t e P r e p a r a t i o n : Phase I i s s t i r r e d a t a p p r o x . 80C u n t i l a homogeneous m i x t u r e i s o b t a i n e d . I t i s t h e n c o o l e d w h i l e s t i r r i n g continuously. F o r m u l a No. L65-03 Shampoo in Cream Form

%w/w I

15.0 Texapon Z h i g h l y c o n c . n e e d l e s S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L 2 SM 10.0 Comperl an t 0 0 2.0 Dehydol 1 0 0 D E 0 0.5 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 5.0 Sodium c h l o r i d e 2.0 Water 65.5 N o t e : WAS 30%, p a s t e P r e p a r a t i o n : Phase I i s s t i r r e d a t a p p r o x . 80C u n t i l a homogeneous m i x t u r e i s o b t a i n e d . I t i s t h e n c o o l e d w h i l e s t i r r i n g continuosly. F o r m u l a N o . T65-04 Cream Shampoo with Egg ~

%w/w Texapon CS p a s t e Comperlan KM Egg y o l k , l i q u i d , t e c h n . Water N o t e : WAS 69%, p a s t e Formula N O . T65-07

SOURCE: H e n k e l K G a A : Cosmetic Model F o r m u l a e

93.5 5.0 0.5 1.o

480

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shampoo Plus Conditioner (Formula 90-0601) T h i s one s t e p shampoo and c o n d i t i o n e r d e m o n s t r a t e s r i c h l a t h e r i n g p r o p e r t i e s w h i l e i t c o n d i t i o n s t h e h a i r . Comprised o f two p r o t e i n s u b s t a n t i v e c o n d i t i o n i n g agents, t h i s u n iq u e f o r m u l a d e t a n g l e s s n a r l e d h a i r and s i g n i f i c a n t l y r e d u c e s comb drag. Step A: % By W e i g h t Water 26.65 J a g u a r C-14s 0.30 25% C i t r i c A c i d S o l u t i o n Q . S . t o pH 4 . 0 - 4 . 5 Heat w a t e r t o 50C. W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y d i s p e r s e J a g u a r C-14s i n w a t e r . A d j u s t pH t o 4 . 0 - 4 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d s o l u t i o n a s needed. W i t h pH a d j u s t m e n t , t h e s y s t e m w i l l thicken. Step B: Rhodapex ESY 30.00 Ammonium X y l e n e S u l f o n a t e (40% A q . ) 2.00 25% C i t r i c A c i d S o l u t i o n Q . S . t o pH 5 . 7 - 6 . 3 S l o w l y b l e n d Rhodapex ESY and AXS-40 i n t o h e a t e d w a t e r s y s t e m . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n t o pH 5 . 7 - 6 . 3 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d s o l u t i o n as needed. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , c o n t i n u e t o h e a t s y s t e m t o 70-75C. Step C: V a r i s o f t TC-90 ( S h e r e x ) 0.50 C e t y l A l c o h o l NF 0.40 S t e a r y l A1 coho1 0.40 2.00 A1 kamul s EGDS I n a s e p a r a t e m i x i n g v e s s e l , combine S t e p C i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat S t e p C i n g r e d i e n t s ( d o n o t s c o r c h ) u n t i l c l e a r and m o l t e n . W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d m o l t e n S t e p C phase i n t o 70-75C w a t e r p h a s e . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . Step D: 1.70 A1 kami d e C-212 Rhodapon L-22HNC 36.00 25% C i t r i c A c i d S o l u t i o n Q . S . t o pH 5 . 7 - 6 . 3 S l o w l y b l e n d A l k a m i d e C-212 i n t o h e a t e d s y s t e m and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . S l o w l y b l e n d Rhodapon L-22HNC i n t o system. Once u n i f o r m , a d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n DH t o 5 . 7 - 6 . 3 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d as needed. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , ' c o o l s y s t e m t o 40-45C. S t e p E: Kathon CG (Rohm and Haas) 0.05 F r a g r a n c e and Dye Q.S. S l o w l y b l e n d Kathon CG and c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e and Dye i n t o s y s t e m . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Sodium C h l o r i d e may be added i n t r a c e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s ( 0 . 0 5 - 0 . 1 0 % ) t o i n c r e a s e v i s c o s i t y i f needed. Ammonium X y l e n e S u l f o n a t e may b e added t o d e c r e a s e v i s c o s i t y if needed. Typical Formulation Properties Appearance @ 25C: Opaque/Pearlescent L i q u i d pH : 5.7-6.3 V i s c o s i t y @ 25C (No. 4 S p i n d l e @ 10 RPM):3,000-5,000 c p s

SOURCE: Rhone P o u l e n c S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s :

F o r m u l a 90-0601

Shampoos

481

Shampoo with Ampholyte

96w/w Oehyton AB 30 Eumulgin 0 5 Water N o t e : WAS 21%, v i s c o u s Formula No. T 6 1 - 3 1

30.0 15.0 55.0

Shampoo with Ampholyte

"/ow/w Texapon N25/N40 Dehyton K Comperlan KD Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 12%, h i g h v i s c o u s Formula No. T61-33

30.0 5.0

2.0 2.0 61 .O

Protein-Shampoo W-

Texapon MLS Comperlan OD Hydagen P Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 14% Formula No. T61-36

35.0 3.0 1.0 0.3 60. 7

Shampoo for Structurally Damaged Hair W"

Texapon MLS Oehyton AB 3 0 Comperlan F Aminodermin R c h t e r Water N o t e : WAS 17% Formula No. T61-38

45.0 3.0 2.0 0.1 49.9

Multivitamin-Shampoo Texapon N25 Dehyton AB 3 0 Comperlan LS Sol u v i t - R i c h t e r Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 16% Formula N o . T61-39

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA:

40.0 6.0 3.0 3.0 0.3 47.7

Cosmetic Model

Formulae

482

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shampoo with Ampholyte Texapon MLS Dehyton G Comperlan LS Water N o t e : V i s c o u s shampoo WAS 19% Formula No. T61-40

%w/w 45.0 13.0 1. o 41 . O

Shampoo Clear, Liquid

%w/w

Texapon K14S s p e c i a1 Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 14% Formula No. T61-42

50.0 5.5 44.5

Shampoo Especially Skin Compatible

%w/w

Texapon K14S s p e c i a1 Texapon SBN Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 14% Formula No. T61-45

25.0 25.0 3.0 47.0

Shampoo, Clear Texapon K14S 70 s p e c i a l Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 14% Formula No. T61-46

%w/w 20.0 6.0 74.0

Shampoo, Especially Skin Compatible Texapon K14S 70 s p e c i a l Texapon SBN Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 14% F o r m u l a No. T61-47

%w/W 10.0 25.0 3.5 61 . 5

Shampoo, with Sulfosuccinate Texapon N25 Texapon SB3 Comperlan KD Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 16% F o r m u l a No. 161-48

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model Formulae

%w/w 35.0

10.0 2.0 3.0 50.0

Shampoos

483

Shampoo with Ampholyte Texapon EVR Dehyton A 0 30 Water N o t e : WAS 20%, v i s c o u s Formula No. T64-17

50.0 5.0 45.0

Shampoo with Ampholyte

&y& ! Texapon N25/N40 Dehyton K E u p e r l a n PK 771 Comperlan KD Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 12%, v i s c o u s Formula No. T64-19

30.0 5.0 3.0 1.o 1.0 60.0

Shampoo Concentrate, Pearly W

W

Texapon 2 h i g h l y c o n c . n e e d l e s 35.0 Comperlan KD 35.0 C u t i n a AGS 5.0 Sodium c h l o r i d e 2.6 Water 22.4 N o t e : WAS 65%, AS 70%, p a s t y c o n s i s t e n c y When used, t h e c o n c e n t r a t e i s d i l u t e d w i t h w a t e r a t a r a t i o o f 1 : l O . The r e s u l t is a shampoo o f medium v i s c o s i t y . P r e p a r a t i o n : The i n g r e d i e n t s shown i n t h e f o r m u l a a r e m i xed t o g e t h e r and m e l t e d a t a p p r o x . 75C F o r m u l a No. T64-21 Herbal Shampoo, Pearly Texapon EVR Hexapl a n t R i c h t e r Sodium c h l o r i d e Water Note: WAS 16%, medi um v i scous Formula No. T64-22

45.0 3.0 0.3 51 . 7

Herbal Shampoo, Pearly

YNvJ Texapon EVR Texapon N25/N40 Hexapl a n t R i c h t e r Water N o t e : WAS 11%, v i s c o u s Formula No. T64-23

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

20.0 15.0 3.0 62.0

484

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shampoo with Conditioning Effect

%w/w

Texapon N25 35.0 Lamepon S 10.0 Comperlan KD 5.0 Lamequat L 1.0 Nutrilan I 1.0 Viscontran MHPC 6000 0.4 Perfume 0.2 Water 47.4 Note: Medium viscous. WAS 18% Preparation: Viscontran MHPC is i n i t i a l l y swollen in water and the remaining ingredients are stirred in in the order shown above. Formula No. T61-57 Shampoo, Mild Texapon ASV Dehyton G-SF

%w/w 40.0 5.0

Comperlan COD

2. O

Sodium chloride Water Note: Viscous, WAS 16% Formula No. T61-58

3.5 49.5

Shampoo, Mild Texapon N25 Dehyton G-SF Sodium chloride Water Note: Medium viscous, WAS 15% Formula No. T61-6

%w/w 43.0 7.5 1.5 48.0

Shampoo, Mild Texapon N25 Dehyton G-SF Sodium chloride Water Note: Low viscous, WAS 10% Formula No. T61-62

%W/W 27.0 6.0 2.2 64.8

Shampoo, Mild Texapon N25 Dehyton G-SF Sodium chloride Water Note: Low viscous, WAS 10% Formula No. T61-63

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

%W/W 24.0 8.0 1.5 66.5

Shampoos

485

Shampoo with Jojoba Oil Substitute

%w/w Comperlan KD 2.5 C e t i o l 5600 0.6 I 1 Texapon K 14s s p e c i a l 54.0 C u t i n a EGMS 3.0 Water 20.0 I 1 1 Sodium c h l o r i d e 2.0 Water 17.9 N o t e : WAS 21% Preparation: Phase I : C e t i o l 5600 i s worked i n t o Comperlan K D . Phase 1 1 : C u t i n a EGMS i s m e l t e d w i t h t h e Texapon, w h i c h h a s b e e n d i l u t e d w i t h some o f t h e w a t e r , a t 75C. I t i s c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 40C, b e i n g s t i r r e d c o n t i n u o u s l y , and t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and Phase I a r e added. pH s e t t i n g t o 6 . 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . F o r m u l a No. T64-70

I

Conditioning Shampoo, Pearly

%w/w Texapon N25 Lamepon S Lamesoft 156 Lamequat L Sodium c h l o r i d e Perfume Water N o t e : Low v i s c o u s , WAS 16% P r e p a r a t i o n : The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e m i x e d i n t h e o r d e r shown w i t h t h e e x c e p t i o n o f Lamesoft 156, w h i c h i s added l a s t . Formula No. T64-71 Shampoo, Pearly

35.0 17.0 5.0 5.0 0.7

0.3 37.0

above,

e

Texapon N25 43.0 Lamepon S-TR 20.0 Comperl an KD 1.5 Monomuls 90-L 1 2 1.o Lamesoft 1 5 6 5.0 Perfume 0.3 Sodium c h l o r i d e 1.o Water 28.2 N o t e : Medium v i s c o u s . WAS 23% P r e p a r a t i o n : Monomuls SO-L 1 2 i s d i s s o l v e d i n Texapon N25 w h i l e h e a t i n g . Lamepon S-TR, Comperlan KD, p e r f u m e nd w a t e r a r e added. F i n a l l y , t h e p e a r l y g l o s s c o n c e n t r a t e L a m e s o f t T156 i s added and t h e v i s c o s i t y i s r e g u l a t e d w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . Formula No. T64-73

SOURCE:

Henkel K G a A : Cosmetic Model Formulae

486

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shampoo, Pearly

%w/w I

Texapon N25/N40 50.0 C u t i n a AGS 3.0 Water 20.0 I 1 Sodium c h l o r i d e 3.0 Water 24.0 N o t e : WAS 14%, AS 17%, medium v i s c o u s P r e p a r a t i o n : C u t i n a AGS i s m e l t e d a t a p p r o x . 75C i n t h e Texapon w h i c h has been d i l u t e d w i t h p a r t o f t h e w a t e r . W h i l s t s t i r r i n g , i t i s c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 40C and t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s a r e added. Formula No. T64-06 Shampoo, Pearly

%w/w Texapon Z o r Texapon V h g h l y c o n c . n e e d l e s o r Texapon L S h i g h l y c o n c . need1 es 10.0 Comperlan KD 3.0 C u t i n a AGS 2.0 Sodium c h l o r i d e 1. o Water 84.0 N o t e : WAS 12% P r e p a r a t i o n : The i n g r e d i e n t s shown i n t h e f o r m u l a a r e mixed t o g e t h e r and m e l t e d a t a p p r o x . 75C. Formula No. T64-08 Shampoo, Pearly

%w/w Texapon N25/N40 E u p e r l a n PK 771 Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 1 1 % , v i s c o u s Formula No. T64-09

35.0 3.0 3.5 58.5

Shampoo, Pearly

%w/w Texapon N25/N40 Comperlan KD E u p e r l a n PK 771 Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 17%, v i s c o u s Formula No. T64-10

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

50.0 2.0 2.5 2.0 43.5

Shampoos

487

Shampoo, Pearly

o/aw/w Texapon 2 h i g h l y c o n c . n e e d l e s 10.0 Comperlan KD 3.0 Water 70.0 I 1 Sodium c h l o r i d e 1.o Water 13.5 E u p e r l a n PK771 2.5 N o t e : WAS 10-13%, medium v i s c o u s P r e p a r a t i o n : Phase I i s m i x e d a t a p p r o x . 60C t o f o r m a c l e a r s o l u t i o n . I t i s s t i r r e d w h i l e c o o l i n g . The r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s a r e added a t a p p r o x . 40C. Formula No. T64-11

I

Shampoo, Pearly

%w/w Texapon N25/N40 E u p e r l an PK776 Comperlan KD Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 17%, medium v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. T64-13

50.0 2.5

2.0 2.0 43.5

Shampoo, Pearly

%w/w Texapon 2 h i g h l y c o n c . n e e d l e s 10.0 Comperlan KD 3.0 Water 70.0 I 1 Sodium c h l o r i d e 1.o Water 13.5 E u p e r l a n PK 776 2.5 N o t e : WAS 13%, v i scous P r e p a r a t i o n : Phase I i s m i x e d a t a p p r o x . 60C t o f o r m a c l e a r s o l u t i o n . I t i s s t i r r e d w h i l e c o o l i n g . The r e m a i n i n g in g r e d i e n t s a r e added a t a p p r o x . 40C. Formula No. T64-14

I

Shampoo, Pearly

%w/w Texapon N25/N40 E u p e r l an PK789 Comperlan KD Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 16%, medium v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. T64-15

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

50.0 2.5 2.0 2.0 43.5

488

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shampoo, Cloudy

%w/w

I

Texapon N40 Comperlan KD I 1 Texapon SBN Sodium c h l o r i d e C u t i n a HR Water

15.0 1. o 30.0 2.0 3.0 49.0

N o t e : WAS 14%, AS l 6 % , v i s c o u s P r e p a r a t i o n : M i x Texapon N40 w i t h Comperlan KD, add phase 11, i n w h i c h C u t i n a HR h a s a l r e a d y been m e l t e d a t 9OC and c o o l e d u n d e r c o n t i n u o u s s t i r r i n g , and p r e s e r v e a t a t e m p e r a t u r e b e l o w 40C. F o r m u l a No. T63-01 Anti-Dandruff Shampoo, Cloudy

%w/w Texapon N40 43.0 Lamepon UD 19.0 Nutrilan L 4.5 Monomuls 9 0 - L 12 2.0 Glucamate DOE-120 2.0 Veegum H V , 2% p r e s w e l l i n g 27.2 Z i n c - p r y r i on 48% s u s p . 2.0 Perfume 0.3 N o t e : V i s c o u s , WAS 23% P r e p a r a t i o n : Monomuls 9 0 - L 12 and Glucamate DOE 120 a r e d i s s o l v e d i n Texapon N 4 0 w h i l e b e i n g h e a t e d . The r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s a r e t h e n added i n t h e o r d e r shown a b o v e . The z i n c - p r y r i o n suspe n s i o n and t h e p e r f u m e a r e added when t h e t e m p e r a t u r e i s u n d e r t40C. F o r m u l a No. T63-03 Shampoo, Pearly

%w/w Texapon SG Comperlan KD Water N o t e : WAS 12%, v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. T64-02

33.0 3.5 63.5

Shampoo, Pearly

o/pw/w Texapon SG Texapon N25/N40 Comperlan KD Water N o t e : WAS 14%, h i g h v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. T64-04

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e

20.0 20.0 4.0 56.0

Shampoos

489

Shampoo Plus Conditioner Plus UV Protection Formula 93-0401 T h i s o n e - s t e p shampoo c o n d i t i o n e r and UV p r o t e c t o r d e m o n s t r a t e s r i c h - l a t h e r i n g p r o p e r t i e s , w h i l e i t c o n d i t i o n s and p r o t e c t s t h e h a i r . Comprised o f two p r o t e i n - s u b s t a n t i v e c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t s and an u l t r a v i o l e t a b s o r b e r , t h i s u n i q u e f o r m u l a d e t a n g l e s s n a r l e d h a i r and s i g n i f i c a n t l y r e d u c e s comb d r a g , w h i l e p r o t e c t i n g t h e h a i r from t h e harsh e f f e c t s o f s u n l i g h t . A . Component % BY W e i a h t Water 25.65 Jaguar C-14s 0.30 25% C i t r i c A c i d S o l u t i o n Q.S. t o pH 4 . 0 - 4 . 5 Heat w a t e r t o 50C. W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y d i s p e r s e Jaguar C-14s i n w a t e r . A d j u s t pH t o 4 . 0 - 4 . 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n , as needed. W i t h pH a d j u s t m e n t , t h e s y s t e m w i l l thicken. B . Rhodapex ESY 30.0 2.0 Ammonium X y l e n e S u l f o n a t e (40% A q . ) 25% C i t r i c A c i d S o l u t i o n Q.S. t o pH 5 . 7 - 6 . 3 S l o w l y b l e n d Rhodapex ESY and AXS-40 i n t o h e a t e d w a t e r system. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n pH t o 5 . 7 - 6 . 3 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n , as needed. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , c o n t i n u e t o h e a t system t o 70-75C. C . V a r i s o f t TC-90 ( S h e r e x ) 0.50 0.40 C e t y l A l c o h o l NF Stearyl Alcohol 0.40 A1 kamul s EGDS 2.00 S y n t a s e 62 1 .oo I n a s e p a r a t e m i x i n g v e s s e l , combine 'IC" i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat "C" i n g r e d i e n t s (do n o t s c o r c h ) u n t i l c l e a r and m o l t e n . W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d m o l t e n "C" phase i n t o 70-75C w a t e r phase. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . D. A l k a m i d e C-212 1.70 Rhodapon L-22HNC 36.00 25% C i t r i c A c i d S o l u t i o n P . S . t o pH 5 . 7 - 6 . 3 S l o w l y b l e n d A l k a m i d e C-212 i n t o h e a t e d system and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . S l o w l y b l e n d Rhodapon L-22HNC i n t o system. Once u n i f o r m , a d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n pH t o 5 . 7 - 6 . 3 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d , as needed. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , c o o l s y s t e m t o 40-45C. E . Kathon CG (Rohm and Haas) 0.05 Q.S. F r a g r a n c e and Dye S l o w l y b l e n d Kathon CG and c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e and dye i n t o system. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Sodium c h l o r i d e may be added i n t r a c e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s ( 0 . 0 5 - 0 . 1 0 % ) t o i n c r e a s e v i s c o s i t y , i f needed. Ammonium x v l e n e s u l f o n a t e may be added t o d e c r e a s e v i s c o s i t y , if needed. Typical Formulation Properties Appearance: Opaque, p e a r a s c e n t 1 i q u i d 5.7-6.3 pH : V i s c o s i t y @ 25C (No. 4 S p i n d l e @ 10 r p m ) : 10 000-15,000 c p s

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s :

Formulas

490

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shampoo Shower Bath Combination, Pearly

%w/w 2.0 Hydagen P Texapon EVR 10.0 35.0 I 1 Texapon EVR 3.0 Dehyton A B 30 C e t i o l HE 2.0 Water 48.0 N o t e : WAS 17%, v i s c o u s P r e p a r a t i o n : The p r o d u c t s o f phase I a r e s t i r r e d a t 50-60C u n t i l homogeneous. The r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s a r e added below 40C. Formula No. T64-49

I

Lecithin Shampoo, Pearly

%w/w Texapon MLS E u p e r l a n PK 771 Dehyton K Comperlan LS L e c i t h i n CLR w a t e r d i s p e r s i b l e Water N o t e : WAS 15% F o r m u l a No. T64-51

40.0 3.0 5.0 3.0 2.0 47.0

Lecithin-Egg Shampoo, Pearly

w Texapon MLS Texapon EVR Dehyton K L e c i t h i n CLR ( w a t e r d i s p e r s i b l e ) Egg,yolk, l i q u i d , techn. Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 17% Formula No. T64-52

20.0 25.0 5.0 1.o 1. o 0.4 47.6

Vitamin Shampoo, Pearly

%w/w Texapon N25 E u p e r l a n PK 771 Comperlan OD V i t a m i n F CLR ( w a t e r s o l u b l e ) Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 15% Formula No. T64-53 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model F o r m u l a e

40.0 1 .o 4.0 2.0 0.7 52.3

Shampoos

Shampoo, with Vitamin

491

E %w/w

Comperlan OD V i t a m i n E/Covi t o 1 1 1 0 0 Perfume Texapon NSO Dehyton AB 30 Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 14% Formula No. T61-73

1.5 0.5

0.2 35.0 8.0 1.5 53.3

Shampoo with Vitamin E

%w/w

1.5 Comperlan KD V i t a m i n E/Covi t o 1 1 1 0 0 0.5 Perfume 0.2 Texapon NSO 35.0 8.0 Dehyton K Sodium c h l o r i d e 2.0 Water 52.8 N o t e : WAS 14% P r e p a r a t i o n : The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r i n t h e o r d e r shown above, w i t h o u t h e a t i n g . Formula NO. T61-75

Shampoo with Ampholyte in Gel Form

%w/w Texapon N25/N40 Dehyton A B 30 Water N o t e : WAS 20%, h i g h v i s c o u s Formula No. T62-01 Shampoo in

50.0

20.0 30.0

Gel Form

I

Texapon N70 15.0 Comperlan KD 3.0 I 1 Sodium c h l o r i d e 2.4 Water 7.0 1 1 1 Water 72.6 N o t e : WAS 13%, h i g h v i s c o u s P r e p a r a t i o n : Phase I i s p r e p a r e d and m i x e d . Then t h e sodium c h l o r i d e , which has been p r e - d i s s o l v e d i n a s m a l l amount o f w a t e r , i s added. The r e s t o f t h e w a t e r i s g r a d u a l l y s t i r r e d i n and t h e m i x t u r e i s p r e s e r v e d . Formula No. T62-02

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

492

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shampoo with Sulfosuccinate

%w/w

Texapon N25 Texapon SB 3 Comperlan KD Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 15% Formula No. T61-49

25.0 15.0 2.0 4.5 53.5

Shampoo with Jojoba Oil Substitute Texapon M L S Texapon N25 Eumulgin RO 40 Comperlan KD C e t i o l 5600 Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 20%, p H s e t t o 6.5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d Formula No. T61-51

%w/w 23.5 27.0 2.5 3.0 0.3 2.0

41.7

Shampoo for Greasy Hair Texapon N25 Lamepon S-TR Comperlan KD Lamepon PA-TR Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : V i s c o u s , WAS 21% Formula No. T61-52

%w/W

43.0 20.0 1.5 5.0 0.3 2.0 28.2

Shampoo for Sensitive Scalps Texapon N25 Lamepon S-TR Nutrilan L Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : Low v i s c o u s , WAS 18% Formula No. T61-53

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

%w/w 30.0 30.0 6.0 0.3 1.5 32.2

Shampoos

493

Silk Neutralizing Shampoo

%w/w B i o - T e r g e AS-40 (Sodium C14-16 O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e ) 22.0 Amphosol CA (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) 14.0 Ammonyx CDO (Cocamidopropylami n e O x i d e ) 5.0 D e i o n i z e d Water 56.0 Cationic Collagen Polypeptides 2.5 A m i n o - S i l k SF ( S i l k Amino A c i d s ) 0.5 Preservative, Fragrance q.s. C i t r i c Acid 9 , s . t o pH=4 Procedure: M i x a l l components t o g e t h e r e x c e p t t h e c i t r i c a c i d . A d j u s t pH t o 4 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . P r o p e r t i es : A m i l d , l o w pH shampoo w h i c h n e u t r a l i z e s and r e - c o n d i t i o n s a t t h e same t i m e . C a t i o n i c C o l l a g e n P o l y p e p t i d e s , a c a t i o n i c h i g h m o l e c u l a r w e i g h t p r o t e i n , p r o t e c t s and smooths t h e h a i r s h a f t t o c o u n t e r a c t damage due t o h a r s h p r o c e s s i n g . A m i n o - S i l k SF adds s h i n e and bounce t o t h e h a i r . Formula #HS-300 Enriched Protein & Honey Shampoo

%w/w D e i o n i z e d Water 23.80 Quat-Pro S ( S t e a r y l t r i m o n i u m Hydroxy E t h y l H y d r o l y z e d Col 1agen) 1.oo Methylparaben 0.20 30.00 B. May-Tei n C ( P o t a s s i um Cocoyl Hydro1 yzed Col l a g e n ) S t a n d a p o l ES-2 (Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ) 25.00 C o l l a g e n H y d r o l y z a t e Cosmetic 55 ( H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ) 5 . 0 0 Honey 1 .oo Lemon j u i c e 5.00 M o n a t e r i c CAB (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) 5.00 Sodium C h l o r i d e 2.50 C . D o w i c i l 200 ( Q u a t e r n i u m - 1 5 ) 0.20 P o l y s o r b a t e 20 1 .oo Fragrance 0.30 Q . S . t o pH = 5 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d o r Potassium H y d r o x i d e a s needed. Procedure: 1 . M i x and h e a t phase A u n t i l homogeneous. 2 . Add phase A t o phase B. M i x . 3 . P r e - m i x phase C and add t o phase A / B . M i x . P r o p e r t i es : A v i s c o u s , b u t m i l d shampoo. E n r i c h e d w i t h n a t u r a l i n g r e d i e n t s . Lemon j u i c e and q u a t e r n i z e d p r o t e i n s u p p l y good managea b i l i t y and an a t t r a c t i v e sheen. May-Tein C and Q u a t - P r o S p r o v i d e l u b r i c i t y and c o n d i t i o n i n g . The H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n c o a t s and p r o t e c t s t h e h a i r as w e l l as a d d i n g b o d y . F o r m u l a #HS-109

A.

SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

494

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Softening Shampoo, Pearly

%w/w I

Texapon E V R Texapon N25 Sodium c h l o r i d e Water I1 Cosmedia Guar C261 Water N o t e : WAS 16%, v i s c o u s P r e p a r a t i o n : Cosmedia Guar C261 i s s t i r r e d i n t o h o t w a t e r p r e - s w o l l e n . When c o l d i t i s s t i r r e d i n t o phase I . Formula No. T64-55

25.0 25.0 0.8

18.7 0.5 30.0 and

Silken Sheen Shampoo, Softening SWLW

I

Texapon SG 60.0 Comperlan KD 2.5 Water 6.7 I1 Cosmedia Guar C261 0.8 Water 30 0 N o t e : WAS 15% P r e p a r a t i o n : Cosmedia Guar C261 i s s t i r r e d i n t o h o t w a t e r and p r e - s w o l l e n . When c o l d i t i s s t i r r e d i n t o phase I. Formula No. T64-57 I

Softening Shampoo, Pearly %L!W

Texapon N40 Comperlan KD E u p e r l a n PK 789 Sodium c h l o r i d e Water I1 Cosmedia Guar C261 Water N o t e : WAS 1 5 % P r e p a r a t i o n : Cosmedia Guar C261 i s s t i r r e d i n t o h o t w a t e r p r e - s w o l l e n . When c o l d i t i s s t i r r e d i n t o phase 1 Formula No. T64-59

I

40.0 2.0 5.0 2 .o 20.5 0.5 30.0 and

Softening Shampoo, Pearly

I

Texapon N40 Comperlan K D E u p e r l a n PK 776 Sodium c h l o r i d e Water I 1 Cosmedia Guar C261 Water N o t e : WAS 17% P r e p a r a t i o n : Cosmedia Guar C261 i s s t i r r e d i n t o h o t w a t e r p r e - s w o l l e n . When c o l d i t i s s t i r r e d i n t o phase I. F o r m u l a No. T64-60

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

ObW . %W 50.0 2.0 4.0 1.2 12.0 0.8 30.0

and

Shampoos

495

Vege-Clean Conditioning Shampoo

%w/w A.

B i o t e r g e AS-40 (Sodium C16-18 O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e ) Monami d 150-LW ( L a u r a m i de DEA) Dei o n i zed Water S u p r o - T e i n S ( S o d i um Cocoyl H y d r o l y z e d Soy P r o t e i n (and) S o r b i t o 1 ) Soy-Quat C (Cocodimonium H y d r o x y p r o p y l H y d r o l y z e d Soy P r o t e i n ) S o y - T e i n N L ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy P r o t e i n ) Kessco PEG 6000 DS Sodium C h l o r i d e

B. F r a g r a n c e Preservative C i t r i c Acid

q.s.

40 . O O 3.00 46.80 5.00 1 .50 1 .50 1 .oo

1 .oo

0.2 q.s t o pH 6 . 5

Procedure: M i x and h e a t Phase A t o 6 0 C . M i x u n t i l homogenoeus. M i x and c o o l t o 40C. Add Phase B. Properties: V e g e t a b l e - b a s e d s u r f a c t a n t s and q u a t e r n a r i e s g i v e t h i s condi t i o n i n g shampoo an e x t r a b o o s t . An e f f e c t i v e c l e a n s e r , t h i s f o r m u l a p r o v i d e s a creamy, s t a b l e foam. C o n d i t i o n i n g and m i l d ness a r e p r o v i d e d b y t h e S o y - T e i n NL and S u p r o - T e i n S . S u p r o T e i n S i s a f o a m i n g p r o t e i n w h i c h g e n t l y c l e a n s and i s b i o d e g r a d a b l e . Soy-Quat C i s a c a t i o n i c , q u a t e r n i z e d soy p r o t e i n w h i c h adds h i g h l i g h t s t o t h e h a i r and i m p r o v e s wet and d r y c o m b i n g . SOURCE: Maybrook I n c . : F o r m u l a # H S - 2 0 1

High Foaming 2 in 1 Shampoo Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e 28%) Mackal ene 426 Mackanate DC-50 M a c k e s t e r EGDS Mackami d e PKM Mackernium 0 0 7 Paragon P r e s e r v a t i v e W a t e r , Dye, F r a g r a n c e qs t o

We 1 gkt,% 65.0 6.0 4.0 1. o 2.0 2.0 q.s. 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e f i r s t f i v e components and h e a t t o 70C w i t h c o n t i n uous m i x i n g . 2 . D i l u t e t h e Mackernium 007 i n t h e r e m a i n i n g w a t e r and s l o w l y add t o t h e b l e n d . 3 . B l e n d u n t i l p r o d u c t i s homogeneous and c o o l t o 50C. 4 . Add Paragon p r e s e r v a t i v e , f r a g r a n c e and d y e . 5 . A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d t o 5 . 0 - 6 . 0 and c o o l . SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n

496

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Vitamin Shampoo, Pearly % & 45.0

Texapon EVR Sol u v i t R i c h t e r Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 16%, v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. T64-25

2.0 0.4 52.6

Pearly Gloss Shampoo with Arnica Tincture

Pearly Gloss Shampoo with Egg

%w/w 45.0 2.0 0.3 52.7

Texapon EVR Egg yolk, l i q u i d Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 16%, v i s c o u s Formula No. T64-28 Pearly Gloss Shampoo with Egg Texapon SG Texapon N25/N40 Egg yolk, l i q u i d Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 14%, medium F o r m u l a No. T64-29

%w/w 20.0 20.0 10.0 0.5 49.5

Texapon N25/N40 Texapon EVR C e t i o l HE Arnica Tincture Water N o t e : WAS 13%, v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. T64-27

= 40.0 20.0 0.7 1.5 37.5

iscous

Pearly Gloss Shampoo with Egg Texapon SG Texapon IES Egg yolk, l i q u i d , techn. Sodium c h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 21%, medium v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. T64-30

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

= 40.0 20.0 0.7 1.5 37.8

Shampoos

497

Wash N' Style FamiIy Shampoo

%w/w A.

Monamid CMA (Cocamide MEA) Proto-Lan 8*

8 . Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e S u p r o - T e i n V (TEA-Cocoyl-Hydrolyzed Sorbit o 1) C.

C.

5.00 0.50 30.00

Collagen (and)

C e i o n i zed Water Quat-Pro S ( S t e a r y l t r i m o n i u m H y d r o x y e t h y l Hydrolyzed Collagen) Kera-Tein 1000 (Hydrolyzed K e r a t i n ) Methylparaben Kathon CG

10.00 47.90

C i t r i c A c i d , t o pH=6.0 Fragrance NaCl ( a s needed f o r d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y )

1 .oo 5.00 0.20 0.10 q.s. q.s. q.s.

* ( L e c i t h i n (and) B u t y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Cocoyl Hy d r o ly z e d C o l l a g e n ( a n d ) O l e o y l S a r c o s i n e ( a n d ) Sesame O i l ( a n d ) Lanol i n A l c o h o l ) Procedure: 1 . Heat Monamid u n t i l m e l t e d . Add t h e P r o t o - L a n 8 a n d m i x . 2 . Warm phase B t o 65C. Add phase A t o phase B. M i x . 3 . Warm phase C t o 60C. Add phase A/B t o C . M i x . 4 . A d j u s t pH and add f r a g r a n c e . M i x . Properties: I d e a l f a m i l y shampoo. Based on e f f i c i e n t c l e a n s e r s and s t a t e o f - t h e - a r t h a i r r e p a i r and c o n d i t i o n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s . A c h i e v e s and m a i n t a i n s optimum h a i r b e a u t y f o r n o r m a l , o i l y , and d r y h a i r and s c a l p . P a r t i c u l a r l y b e n e f i c i a l f o r b l e a c h e d , permed, o v e r - p r o c e s s e d h a i r , p r o v i d i n g body, sheen, s o f t f e e l and a d d i n g t o tensile strength.

S O U R C E : Maybrook I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n #HS-110

498

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Wheat Germ Oil & Honey Shampoo (Formula 86-0106)

% by Wei Qht Rhodapex NA 61 10.0 M i r a t a i n e BET-C 30 3.5 A1 kami de DC-212/S 1.5 Honey 0.025 Wheat Germ O i l 0.025 C i t r i c Acid Q . S . to pH 6 - 6 . 5 F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Q.S. Sodium C h l o r i d e 1 .5-2.5 Water 83.95 Blendina Procedure: 1 . Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l , 2. W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n Rhodapex NA 61 and M i r a t a i n e BET-C 30. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . 3 . I n a s e p a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , d i s p e r s e honey and wheat germ o i l i n A l k a m i d e DC-212/S and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add t h i s b l e n d t o shampoo system. M i x u n t i l shampoo i s c o m p l e t e l y c l e a r and u n i f o r m . 4. A d j u s t p H o f s y s t e m t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d , as needed. 5 . Add c o m p a t i b l e f r a g r a n c e , dye and p r e s e r v a t i v e . 6 . A d j u s t shampoo v i s c o s i t y t o 1,000-1,500 cps w i t h i n c r e m e n t a l a d d i t i o n s o f sodium c h l o r i d e , as needed. CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Water, Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , Cocamide DEA, Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e , Wheat Germ O i 1, Honey, C i t r i c A c i d , P r e s e r v a t i v e , F r a g r a n c e , Dye. Pearlescent Cream Shampoo (Formula 83-0902M)

% BY Weight Rhodapon SB 8208s 33.0 M i r a s h e e n 202 10.0 C i t r i c Acid Q.S. t o p H 5-6 Fragrance, Dye(s), P r e s e r v a t i v e Q.S. Sodium C h l o r i d e 1.5-2.5 Water 55.0 Blendina Procedure: W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s o w l y Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g vesse b l e n d i n Rhodapon SB 8208s and M i r a s h e e n 202. M i x u n t i l compl e t e l y u n i f o r m . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n pH t o 5-6 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d as needed and t h e n add c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 2,000-4,000 cps w i t h t h e j u d i c i o u s a d d i t i o n o f Sodium C h l o r i d e as needed. T v p i c a l F o r m u l a t i o n P r o p e r t i es Opaque/Pearlescent L i q u i d Appearance @ 25C: 5-6 pH : V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 2,000-4,000 CPS % Non V o l a t i l e s : 15-17 CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Water, Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e , G l y c o l S t e a r a t e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , Lauramide DEA, Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e , G l y c e r i n e , Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e , C i t r i c Acid, Dye(s).

.

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s :

Formulas

Shampoos

499

Wig Shampoo

%w/w 30.0 5.0 3.0 62.0

Texapon MLS Dehyton AB30 Comperlan OD Water N o t e : WAS 14%, v i s c o u s Formula No. T68-01 Wig Shampoo, Cationic

%w/w 40.0 15.0 5.0 2.0 38.0

Dehyton AB30 Eumulgin C4 Dehyquart LT Comperlan KD Water N o t e : WAS 31%, l o w v i s c o u s Formula No. T68-02 Wig Shampoo, Cationic

%w/w 25.0 15.0 5.0 55.0

Dehydol 1OODEO Dehyquart A Eumulgin 0 10 Water N o t e : WAS 34%, l o w v i s c o u s Formula No. T68-03 Wig Shampoo

%w/w 55.0 1.8 5.0 0.3 1.5 36.4

Texapon N25 Comperlan KD Nutrilan L Perfume Sodium C h l o r i d e Water N o t e : WAS 1 5 % , v i s c o u s Formula No. T68-04

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA:

Cosmetic Model Formulae

500

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

2-in-1 Conditioning Shampoo T h i c k , s t a b l e shampoo h a v i n g good c l e a n i n g and c o n d i t i o n i n g properties f o r the hair. Inqredient: Part A: Dei o n i zed Water Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) ( 1 ) Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (27%) ( 2 )

Wei q h t % 34.10 34.00

9.25

P a r t B: C a r b o p o l 1382 ( 3 )

0.75

Cocamide DEA ( 4 )

3.50

P a r t C: D i m e t h i c o n e (100,000 c s ) ( 5 ) Olealkonium Chloride (6)

1 .OO 0.50

P a r t D: D e i o n i z e d Water 15.00 D i s o d i um EDTA 0.10 DMDM H y d a n t o i n ( 7 ) 0.40 Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ( 8 ) 0 . 2 0 NaOH (10%) 1,OO Part E: Fragrance ( 9 )

(1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9)

Function Diluent Surfactant Surfactant Suspension S t a b i 1 iz e r Foam S t a b i 1 iz e r Lubricant Conditioner Diluent Chelant Preservative Conditioner N e u t r a l iz i ng Agent

0.20

Standapol A (Henkel) S t a n d a p o l EA-3 ( H e n k e l ) Carbomer ( B F G o o d r i c h ) S t a n d a m i d KD ( H e n k e l ) 200 F l u i d (Dow C o r n i n g ) M-Quat JO 50 (PPG-Mazer) G l y d a n t (Lonza) N-Hance ( A q u a l o n ) Shampoo F r a g r a n c e A62120/794457

(Haarman & R e i m e r )

Preparation Procedure: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s , s l o w l y m i x , h e a t t o 50C. 2 . S e p a r a t e l y h e a t Cocamide DEA t o 5 0 , s l o w l y m i x i n C a r b o p o l , f o r m i n g a p a s t e , add t o P a r t A w i t h m o d e r a t e speed, m i x i n g 30 m i n u t e s . 3 . S e p a r a t e l y combine P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t t o 50C, s l o w l y m i x t o combine w i t h P a r t s A and B w i t h m o d e r a t e speed m i x i n g . 4. S e p a r a t e l y add g u a r i n t o f i r s t t h r e e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t D, when d i s p e r s e d add NaOH, combine w i t h P a r t s A , 8 , and C , w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n f o r 20 m i n u t e s u n t i l 40C. 5 . Add P a r t E and m i x s l o w a g i t a t i o n f o r 20 m i n u t e s .

SOURCE:

BF

G o o d r i c h Co.:

F o r m u l a C-0039

Shampoos

501

2-in-1 Conditioning Shampoo A s y n e r g i s t i c m i x t u r e o f Veegum HS Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e and h y d r o x y p r o p y l g u a r t h i c k e n s t h i s shampoo t o m a i n t a i n t h e m i c a and t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e i n s u s p e n s i o n . Vanseal CS, renowned f o r i t s m i l d n e s s t o t h e s k i n and eyes, enhances t h e q u a l i t y and q u a n t i t y o f l a t h e r p r o d u c e d b y t h i s f o r m u l a . I t a l s o a c t s as a c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t , augmenting t h e c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t o f s t e a r a l k o n i u m chloride. Inqredient : A : Veegum HS Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e H y d r o x y p r o p y l Guar** D e i o n i z e d Water

% by W e i q h t * 1.30 1.30 60.35

B:

C i t r i c Acid Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e Vanseal CS Cocoyl S a r c o s i n e

0.05 30.00 3.00

C:

S t e a r a l k o n i u m C h l o r i d e , 25%

3.00

D: Mica (and) T i t a n i u m Dioxide*** Sodium H y d r o x i d e S o l u t i o n t o pH 6 . 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, F r a g r a n c e

1.oo q.s.

q.s.

*As R e c e i v e d B a s i s * * J a g u a r HP-60 * * * T i m e r o n Super Copper M i x i n g Procedure: H e a t t h e w a t e r i n p a r t A t o 50C. Add t h e Veegum HS s l o w l y t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a t 1 8 0 0 rpm. M i x 1 h o u r . Add t h e h y d r o x y p r o p y l g u a r and m i x 3 m i n u t e s . D e a e r a t e . Slow t h e m i x e r t o a v o i d a i r e n t r a p m e n t and foam g e n e r a t i o n . Add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g each u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Heat p a r t C t o 50C and add s l o w l y t o A and B . Cool t o 30C o r l e s s and add p a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g each u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Formula P r o p e r t i e s : V i s c o s i t y : 10,000-15,000 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d Model LVT a t 60 RPM) pH: 5 . 8 t o 6 . 2 Appearance: Smooth, u n i f o r m , p o u r a b l e l o t i o n

SOURCE: R . T .

V a n d e r b i l t Co.,

Inc.:

Formula N o . 4 5 4

Section X Shaving Products

502

Shaving Products

503

After Shave Balm Ingredient: P a r t A: Dei o n i zed Water Glycerin Dimethicone Copolyol (1)

Wei a h t %

90.00 3.00 1 .oo

F u n c t ion D i 1u e n t Humectant Humectant/ L u b r ic a n t Surfactant Skin Conditioner

P o l y s o r b a t e 80 ( 2 ) A1 1a n t o i n

0.10 0.10

P a r t 9: Cyclomethicone ( 3 ) Decyl O l e a t e ( 4 ) Pemulen TR-1

4.00 0.50 0.25

Lubricant Emol 1 ie n t Emulsifier/ S t a b i 1 iz e r

P a r t C: T r i e t h a n o amine,

0.25

N e u t r a l iz i n g Agent

99%

Part D: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l 0.80 Paraben ( 6 ) Fragrance q.s

Preservative

Dow C o r n i n g 190 S u r f a c t a n t (Dow C o r n i n g ) Tween 80 (IC1 A m e r i c a s ) Dow C o r n i n g 245 F l u i d (Dow C o r n i n g ) C e r a p h y l 140 (Van Oyk) CTFA A c r y l a t e s / C l O - C 3 0 A l k y l A c r y l a t e C r o s s p o l y m e r ( BFGoodr ic h ) ( 6 ) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n Labs)

(1) (2) i3j (4) (5)

P r e p a r a t i o n Procedure: 1 ) Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. 2 ) Combine P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . M i x t o b r e a k up any s o f t lumps o f Pemulen. 3 ) W i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x f o r 15-30 minutes, 4 ) Add P a r t C . As e m u l s i o n t h i c k e n s , i n c r e a s e r a t e o f m i x i n g t o p r o d u c e a smooth, opaque p r o d u c t . 5) Mix P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o emulsion. SOURCE: BF G o o d r i c h C o . :

F o r m u l a PO003

504

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

After Shave Balm Smooth a p p l i c a t i o n and n o n - s t i n g i n g e m o l l i e n c y a r e f e a t u r e s o f t h i s translucent gel formulation. I n g r e d i e n t (CTFA) : P a r t A: Dei o n i zed Water Glycerin D i m e t h i cone C o p o l y o l ( 1 )

Wei a h t %

88.65

3.00 0.75

Function D i 1u e n t Humectant Humectant/ Lubr ic a n t Particle Size Reduction Skin Conditioner Chel a t i ng Agent

P o l y s o r b a t e 80 ( 2 )

0.15

Allantoin D i s o d i um EDTA

0.10 0.10

P a r t B: Cyclomethicone ( 3 ) F r a g r a n c e , N o v i l l e #28819 Decyl O l e a t e ( 4 ) Pemulen T R - 1 (5) Carbopol 954 ( 6 )

4.00 0.75 0.50 0,20 0.40

P a r t C: Triethanolamine

0.60

Neutralizing Agent

0.80

Preservative

(99%)

P a r t D: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) Propylparaben ( 7 )

Lubricant Emol 1 ie n t Emulsifier Thickener

193 S u r f a c t a n t (Dow C o r n i n g ) ( 2 ) P r o t a s o r b 0 - 2 0 (Protemeen C h e m i c a l s ) , Tween 80 ( I C I ) ( 3 ) 345 F l u i d (Dow C o r n i n g ) ( 4 ) C e r a p h y l 140 (Van Dyk) ( 5 ) A c r y l a t e s / C l O - 3 0 A l k y l A c r y l a t e C r o s s p o l y m e r (BF G o o d r i c h ) ( 6 ) Carbomer (BF G o o d r i c h ) ( 7 ) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n Labs)

(1)

Preparation: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e f o r m u l a t i o n . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. 2 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , b l e n d p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . Pemulen and Carbopol s h o u l d be s l u r r i e d i n t h i s phase. D i s r u p t any s o f t lumps o f t h e s e r e s i n s . 3 . W i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x f o r 1 0 - 1 5 m i n u t e s and t h e n add P a r t C . M i x v i g o r o u s l y t o p r o d u c e a smooth, g l o s s y p r o d u c t . 4 . Mix P a r t D i n t o emulsion.

SOURCE: BF G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a PO011

Shaving Products

505

After Shave Balm Smooth a p p l i c a t i o n and n o n - s t i n g i n g e m o l l i e n c y a r e f e a t u r e s o f t h i s translucent gel formulation. Weight%

I n a r e d i e n t (CTFA) Part A: D e i o n i z e d Water Glycerin Dimethicone Copolyol ( 1 )

88.65 3.00 0.75

Function D i 1u e n t Humectant Humectant/ Lubricant Particle Size Reduct ion Skin Conditioner C h e l a t i n g Agent

Polysorbate 80 ( 2 )

0.15

A1 1a n t o i n D i s o d i um EDTA

0.10 0.10

Part 8: Cyclomethicone ( 3 ) F r a g r a n c e , N o v i l l e #28819 Decyl O l e a t e ( 4 ) Pemulen TR-1 ( 5 ) Carbopol 5984 ( 6 )

4.00 0.75 0.50 0.20 0.40

Part C: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

0.60

N e u t r a l i z i ng Agent

0.80

Preservative

P a r t D: P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l and) D i azo1 id i n y l Urea ( a n d ) Methy paraben ( a n d ) Propylparaben ( 7 (1)

Lubricant Emol 1 ie n t Emulsifier Thickener

(Dow C o r n i n g ) (Protameen C h e m i c a l s ) , Tween 8 0 ( I C I ) 345 F l u i d (Dow C o r n i n g ) C e r a p h y l 14 0 (Van Dyk) A c r y l a t e s / C l O - 3 0 A l k y l A c r y l a t e C r o s s p o l y m e r (BFGoodrich) Carbomer ( B F G o o d r i c h ) Germaben I1 ( S u t t o n Labs) 193 S u r f a c t a n

( 2 ) P r o t a s o r b 0-2 (3) (4) (5) (6) (7)

Preparation: 1 , Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i 11 c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e f o r m u l a t i o n . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. 2 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , b l e n d P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . Pemulen and Carbopol s h o u l d be s l u r r i e d i n t h i s phase. D i s r u p t any s o f t lumps o f t h e s e r e s i n s . 3 . W i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x f o r 10-15 m i n u t e s and t h e n add P a r t C . M i x v i g o r o u s l y t o p r o d u c e a smooth, g l o s s y p r o d u c t . 4 . Mix P a r t D i n t o emulsion.

SOURCE: BF G o o d r i c h C o . :

Formula PO032

506

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

After Shave Balm Smooth a p p l i c a t i o n and n o n - s t i n g i n g e m o l l i e n c y a r e f e a t u r e s o f t h i s translucent gel formulation. Ingredient (CTFA): Part A: Dei o n i zed Water G1 y c e r i n Dimethicone Copolyol ( 1 )

Weight% 88.65 3.00 0.75

Function D i 1u e n t

Humectant Humectant/ Lubricant Particle Size Reduction Skin Conditioner C h e l a t i n g Agent

P o l y s o r b a t e 80 ( 2 )

0.15

A1 1a n t o i n D i s o d i um EDTA

0.10 0.10

P a r t B: Cyclomethicone ( 3 ) Fragrance (8) Decyl O l e a t e ( 4 ) Pemulen TR-1 ( 5 ) Carbopol 5984 ( 6 )

4.00 0.75 0.50 0.20 0.40

P a r t C: T r i e t h a n o l ami ne ( 99%)

0.60

Neutralizing Agent

0.80

P r e s e r v a t iv e

P a r t D: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) Propylparaben ( 7 ) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8)

Lubricant Emol 1 ie n t Emulsifier Thickener

190 S u r f a c t a n t (Dow C o r n i n g ) P r o t a s o r b 0-20 (Protameen C h e m i c a l s ) , Tween 8 0 ( I C I ) 345 F l u i d (Dow C o r n i n g ) C e r a p h y l 140 (Van Dyk) A c r y l a t e s / C 1 0 - 3 0 A l k y l A c r y l a t e C r o s s p o l y m e r (BFGoodrich) Carbomer (BFGoodrich) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n Labs) M e n ' s F r a g r a n c e A62119/794456 (Haarman & Reimer)

Procedure: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e f o r m u l a t i o n . M i x u n t i 1 homogeneous. 2 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , b l e n d P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . Pemulen and C a r b o p o l s h o u l d b e s l u r r i e d i n t h i s phase. D i s r u p t any s o f t 1 umps o f t h e s e r e s i n s . 3 . W i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x f o r 10-15 m i n u t e s and t h e n add P a r t C . M i x v i g o r o u s l y t o p r o d u c e a smooth, g l o s s y p r o d u c t . 4. Mix P a r t D i n t o emulsion.

SOURCE! BF G o o d r i c h Co.: F o r m u l a PO033

Shaving Products

507

After-Shave Cream %W/W Carbopol 934 1 00 E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% 30.00 Water 26 7 5 I1 Triethanolamine 1 50 Water 5 00 I 1 1 C u t i n a MD 3.00 Eumulgin 8 2 1 00 C e t i o l LC 5.00 Water 26 7 5 Preparation: A l l o w I t o s w e l l , n e u t r a l i z e w i t h 11, process I11 i n t o a cream a t 70C and add i t t o t h e g e l p r o d u c e d . Formula No D12-01

I

~

After-Shave Gel %W/W 0.2 Menthol 50.0 E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% 42.6 I I Water 0.2 Boric acid 0.8 I 1 1 Carbopol 940 1.2 I V Triethanolamine 5.0 C e t i o l HE Preparation: D i s s o l v e I and add I 1 i n a d i s s o l v e d s t a t e . S t i r r i n g q u i c k l y , a l l o w I11 t o s w e l l i n t h e a l c o h o l i c / a q u e o u s s o l u t i o n . S t i r i n IV t o n e u t r a l i ze. Formula N o . 012-02

I

After Shave Tonic %W/W

E t h a n o l 96% 40.0 Monomuls 90-L 12 1.o L a m a c i t GML 2 0 10.0 A1 1a n t o i n 0.2 I r g a s a n DP 300 0.1 Perfume 0.8 Water 47.9 Preparation: Monomuls 90-L 12 i s d i s s o l v e d i n L a n i a c i t GML a t 70C and t h e p e r f u m e i s added. E t h a n o l and w a t e r a r e t h e n added and, f i n a l l y , a l l a n t o i n and I r g a s a n DP 3 0 0 a r e d i s s o l v e d , s t i r r i n g thorough1 y . The pH i s a d j u s t e d w i t h l a c t i c a c i d . Formula No. D51-05

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

508

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Aftershave Gel Inqredients: E t h a n o l , 96% d e n a t u r e d Perfume o i l Menthol Cremophor RH 6 0 U v i n u l D 50

oh b y Weiqht

60.00 2.00 0.10 0.80 0.05

A.

B . Water,

distilled A1 1 a n t o i n EDTA A c i d

C.

25.10 0.10

0.05

Carbomer 980

0.50

D . Water,

distilled T r i s Amino

10.00 0.60

Procedure: P a r t A: D i s s o l v e p e r f u m e o i l , m e n t h o l , Cremophor R H 60 and U v i n u l D 50 i n e t h y l a l c o h o l . P a r t B : D i s s o l v e a l l a n t o i n and EDTA i n w a t e r and s t i r p a r t B i n t o p a r t A. P a r t C : G e n t l y s i f t Carbomer 980 i n t o t h e combined P a r t s A and B w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n o f t h e m i x t u r e . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l t h e Carbomer has been c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d P a r t D : D i s s o l v e T r i s Amino i n t h e w a t e r and s t i r i n t o p a r t s A , B and C i n o r d e r t o n e u t r a l i z e t h e Carbomer. A h i g h l y v i s c o u s , t r a n s p a r e n t g e l i s o b t a i n e d . The pH v a l u e o f t h e g e l should be approximately 7.0-7.5 SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y : Suggested Formul a t i on PF-0189E Pre-shave Lotion Slightly yellow, clear, low viscosity Material/CTFA-Index: A: E t h a n o l / A l c o h o l (Cosmetic g r a d e ) 8 : B e l s i l DMC 6 0 3 1 / D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l Ado1 6 6 / I s o s t e a r y l A l c o h o l Isopropyl Myri s t a t e Rewolan AWS/PEG-75 L a n o l i n o i 1 C : Water

7 5 . 00% 4.00

2.50 5.00

2.50 11

.oo

M i x B i n t o A s t i r r i n g l i g h t l y . Add C s t i r r i n g l i g h t l y . S t i r u n t i l a c l e a r s o l u t i o n i s formed. T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e :

F o r m u l a t i o n 351 AH

Shaving Products

509

Shaving Cream I

Edenor K 1218 6.40 Edenor C 14 92-96% 11.20 S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L4 11.20 I 1 Potassium hydroxide 7.54 Sodium h y d r o x i d e 0.39 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 6.00 Triethanolamine 1.05 I 1 1 Water 38.84 IV S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L 4 11.20 V Texapon CS p a s t e 3.00 Eutanol G 2.00 V I Menthol 0.20 Perfume 1.oo Preparation: M e l t I a t 8OC on t h e w a t e r b a t h , d i s s o l v e I 1 i n I 1 1 and h e a t t o 8OC. S t i r t h i s s o l u t i o n i n t o I ( s a p o n i f i c a t i o n ) . The s t i r r i n g p r o c e s s l a s t s a t l e a s t l h a t a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 80C. M e l t I V a t 8OC and g r a d u a l l y add i t t o t h e m i x t u r e . A f t e r c o o l i n g t o 5 0 C , V i s r e d u c e d t o r e d u c e d t o a p p r o x . 40C and a l s o s t i r r e d . V I i s added a t a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 30C. The l o s t w a t e r i s f i n a l l y r e p l a c e d . The s h a v i n g cream i s m e c h a n i c a l l y homogenized once. The p r o c e s s i s r e p e a t e d a f t e r 24 h , a f t e r w h i c h p a c k a g i n g t a k e s place. N o t e : Max. pH 11 Formula No. D 1 1 - 0 1 Shaving Cream

I

w

Edenor K8-18 10.0 S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L4 28.0 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 17.0 23.0 Water I 1 P o t a s s i u m h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n 45% 15.0 2.5 Sodi um h y d r o x i de s o l u t i on 45% I11 S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L4 3.5 I V Perfume 1.0 Preparation: M e l t I a t 8OC on t h e w a t e r b a t h , d i s s o l v e I 1 i n 111 and h e a t t o 8OC. S t i r t h i s s o l u t i o n s l o w l y i n t o I ( s a p o n i f i c a t i o n ) . The s t i r r i n g p r o c e s s l a s t s a t l e a s t 0 . 5 h a t a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 8OC. M e l t I V a t 8OC and g r a d u a l l y add i t t o t h e m i x t u r e . A f t e r c o o l i n g t o 50C, V i s r e d u c e d t o a p p r o x . 40C and a l s o s t i r r e d . V I i s added a t a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 30C. The l o s t w a t e r i s f i n a l l y r e p l a c e d . The s h a v i n g cream i s m e c h a n i c a l l y homogenized o n c e . The p r o c e s s i s r e p e a t e d a f t e r 24 h, a f t e r w h i c h p a c k a g i n g t a k e s p l ace. N o t e : Max. pH 11 Formula No. D l l - 0 3 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

510

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shaving Cream

9aLN

Edenor K 1218 9.30 Edenor C14 92-94% 2.50 S i e g e r t S t e a r i n 14 12.60 I 1 Sodium h y d r o x i d e 0 21 P o t a s s i um h y d r o x i d e 7.00 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 5 00 I 1 1 Water 40.09 I V S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L4 12.60 Comperlan HS 1.50 Polywax 1550 5.20 V Texapon C S p a s t e 3.00 V I Perfume 1.oo Preparation: M e l t I a t 8OC on t h e w a t e r b a t h D i s s o l v e I 1 i n I 1 1 and h e a t t o 80C S t i r t h e s o l u t i o n s l o w l y i n t o I ( s a p o n i f i c a t 1 o n ) The s t i r r i n g p r o c e s s l a s t s a t l e a s t 0 . 5 h a t a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 8OC. M e l t I V a t 8OC and g r a d u a l l y add i t t o t h e m i x t u r e . A f t e r c o o l i n g t o 50C, V i s r e d u c e d t o a p p r o x . 40C and a l s o s t i r r e d . V I i s added a t a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 30C The l o s t w a t e r i s f i n a l l y r e p l a c e d . The s h a v i ng cream i s rnechani c a l l y homogeni zed o n c e , The p r o c e s s i s r e p e a t e d a f t e r 24 h , a f t e r w h i c h p a c k a g i n g t a k e s p l ace. N o t e Max pH 1 1 F o r m u l a Dl l-02 I

Shaving Foam, Aerosol-Packed %WiW

S h a v i n g cream D11-02 20 0 Texapon TH 2.0 Aethoxal B 5 0 I I 1 , Z - p r o p y l ene g l y c o l 5 0 Water 68.0 P r e p a r a t i o n . M i x I,add t o I 1 and t h e n homogenize m e c h a n i c a l l y F i l l i n g 92 p a r t s above m i x t u r e 8 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t F r i g e n 12 N o t e Max pH 11 F o r m u l a No D71-01 I

Shaving Foam, Aerosol-Packed

%WW

S h a v i n g cream D11-02 20.0 Texapon TH 2.0 C e t i o l HE 5.0 I 1 1,2-propylene g l y c o l 5.0 Water 68.0 P r e p a r a t i o n : M i x I , add I 1 and t h e n homogeni r e m e c h a n i c a l l y . F i 11 i n g : 92 p a r t s above m i x t u r e 8 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t F r i g e n 12 N o t e : Max. pH 1 1 F o r m u l a D71-02 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: C o s m e t i c Model F o r m u l a e I

Shaving Products

511

Shaving Lotion for Use Before Electric Shaving

-9

I

Eutanol G Isopropanol Perfume I1 Boric acid Water Formula No. D51-01

3.2 66.8 0.4 0.2 29.4

Shaving Lotion for Use Before Electric Shaving

%w/w I

M y r i t o l 318 Isopropyl Myristate E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% Perfume I1 L a c t i c a c i d 80% Water Formula No. 1351-02

2.00 3.00 88.00 1.oo 0.05 5.95

Shaving Lotion for Use After Shaving

%w/w

I

C e t i o l HE E u m u l g i n 05 Menthol E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% Perfume I1 Allantoin Cremogen w i t c h h a z e l e x t r a c t Water Formula No. 1351-03

1.oo 1.oo 0.01 50.00 1

.oo

0.20 5.00 41.79

Shaving Lotion for Use After Shaving

%w/w I

C e t i o l HE E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% Menthol Camphor Perfume I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Cremogen w i t c h h a z e l e x t r a c t Boric acid Water Formula No. D51-04

SSOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

3.0 70.0 0.2 0.2 0.5 5.0 10.0 0.2 10.9

Section XI Soaps and Hand Cleaners

512

Soaps and Hand Cleaners

513

Ajinomoto Solid Bar AI-KK Inqredients: Sodium N-Cocoyl, T a l l o w y l - L - G l u t a m a t e Sodi um c o c o y l i s e t h i o n a t e Cetyl alcohol Titanium dioxide EDTA d i s o d i u m s a l t Dei o n i zed w a t e r

( A m i s o f t GS-11)

Weiqht% 42.00 42.00 7.00 0.10 0.10 8.80

Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e c e t y l a l c o h o l and d e i o n i z e d w a t e r a t 8 0 d e g r e e s Centigrade w l t h s t i r r i n g . 2 . Add t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e and EDTA d i s o d i u m s a l t and d i s p e r s e thoroughly. 3 . Add s m a l l amount o f GS-11 ( 3 9 p e r lOOg o f w a t e r ) t o t h e m i x t u r e t o e m u l s i f y a t 80 degrees C , c o o l w i t h c o n t i n u e d s t i r ring. 4 . Add t h e m i x t u r e f r o m s t e p 3 t o GS-11 and Sodium c o c o y l i s e t h i o n a t e and m i n g l e t h o r o u g h l y . 5 . M i l l t h e m i x t u r e on a r o l l e r m i l l and t h e n c o n v e r t i n t o a b a r t h r o u g h an e x t r u d e r . 6 . Mold t h e b a r i n a stamping machine. Ajinomoto Clear Soap with Amisoft Formula TP-10 -~ Ingredients:

Soap M a t e r i a1 A m i s o f t HS-21 Ethyl Alcohol Glycerin Sugar Water *Typical Sodi um Sodi urn Sodi um Sodi um Sodi um

*

R a t i o o f Soap M a t e r i a l : Laurate 7 . 7 5 wt% 5.66 Myri s t a t e 23.47 Palmitate Stearate 39.81 01 e a t e 23.31

SOURCE: A j i n m o m o t o USA, I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

W_t% 41 . 2 5.0 17.0 7.0 12.0 17.8

514

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Anti -Bacterial Handsoap (Formula 91-1007) % B y Weiqht Rhodacal A246LX 10.0 Rhodapon L-22HNC 25.0 M i r a t a i ne CBS 3.5 Cheelox 100 (Dow) 0.2 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 1. o A l k a m i d e LE 0.5 1. o Ottasept Extra (Ferro) C i t r i c Acid Q . S . t o pH 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 Fragrance, Dye(s), P r e s e r v a t i v e Q.S. Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.05-0.50 Water 58.5 Blendina Procedure: Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n Rhodacal A246LX, Rhodapon L-22HNC, M i r a t a i n e CBS, and Cheelox 100. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . I n a s e p a r a t e m i x i n g v e s s e l , combine P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l , A l k a m i d e LE and O t t a s e p t E x t r a . W i t h g e n t l e h e a t , m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d t h i s m i x t u r e i n t o main system. Once s y s t e m i s u n i f o r m , a d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d as needed and t h e n b l e n d i n c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , D y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t t h e f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 7,000-10,000 cps w i t h t h e j u d i c i o u s a d d i t i o n o f Sodium C h l o r i d e as needed. Typical Formulation Properties: Appearance @ 25C: Clear, Viscous L i q u i d % Non V o l a t i l e s : 15-17 5.5-6.5 pH : V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 7,000-10,000 CPS Active Ingredient: Chloroxylenol Emollient Hand Cleaner (Formula 91-1006) "Cold Process Formula" % by W e i a h t Rhodapon L-22HNC 35.0 M i r a p o l 550 0.5 M i r a s h e e n 202 8.0 Fragrance, Oye(s), P r e s e r v a t i v e Q.S. C i t r i c Acid Q . S . t o pH 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.2-1 . o Water 56.0 B l e n d i n a P r o c e d u r e : Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n Rhodapon L-22HNC and M i r a p o l 5 5 0. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n M i r a s h e e n 202. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add c o m p a t i b l e F r a g r a n c e , O y e ( s ) , and P r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d as needed. A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o 4,000-6,000 c p s (No. 4 s p i n d l e @ 10 RPM) w i t h t h e j u d i c i o u s a d d i t i o n o f Sodium C h l o r i d e as needed. Typical Formulation Properties: Opaque/Pearl e s c e n t L i q u i d Appearance @ 25C: 5.5-6.5 pH : % Non V o l a t i l e s : 13-15 SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : Formulas

Soaps and Hand Cleaners

515

Conditioning Cleansing Bar (Formula 91-1104) T h i s combo b a r combines t h e c l e a n i n g and f o a m i n g o f a soap b a r w i t h t h e m i l d n e s s and h a r d w a t e r c o m p a t a b i l i t y o f a synthetic detergent bar. A d d i t i o n a l l y , i t incorporates the s k i n c o n d i t i o n i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f q u a t e r n i z e d g u a r . Use o f t h i s b a r w i t h i t s e m o l l i e n t s , m o i s t u r i z e r s and c o n d i t i o n e r s l e a v e s t h e s k i n f e e l i n g s o f t and smooth. The b a r has been s p e c i a l l y f o r m u l a t e d t o g i v e a n o n - a l k a l i n e pH t o more n e a r l y match t h e s k i n ' s n a t u r a l pH. % by W e i q h t

Step A : Geropon AS-200 80/20 B r a d p r i d e Soap Base ( O r i g i n a l B r a d f o r d Soap Works) S t e a r i c A c i d , T r i p l e Pressed Nadex 360 ( N a t i o n a l S t a r c h ) Jaguar C-162 Titanium Dioxide Step 8: Water Sodium C h l o r i d e Step C: Fragrance,

Dye(s),

76.0 7.0

Q.S. 0.2 1.o 0.2

4.2

0.5 Preservative

Q.S.

Blendinq Procedure: S t e p A: B l e n d t h e d r y components (Geropon AS-200, Soap Base, S t e a r i c A c i d , Nadex 360, Jaguar C-162, T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ) i n a powder m i x e r . S t e p 8 : D i s s o l v e t h e Sodium C h l o r i d e and any o t h e r w a t e r s o l u b l e components i n t h e w a t e r . Add u n i f o r m l y t o S t e p A t o a v o i d wet s p o t s . S t e p C : F i n a l l y , add t h e f r a g r a n c e e v e n l y t o S t e p s A and B. S t e p D : When t h e b a t c h has been u n i f o r m l y m i x e d , m i l l a n d / o r r e f i n e u n t i l b a t c h i s homogeneous. E x t r u d e and stamp i n t o bars. Tvoical Formulation Properties: Appearance: Opaque Bar pH (5% d i s p e r s i o n ) : 6.5-7.0 CTFA I d e n t i f i c a t i o n : Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e , S t e a r i c A c i d , Sodium T a l l o w a t e , Water, D e x t r i n , Sodium Cocoate a n d / o r Sodium Palm K e r n a l a t e , H y d r o x y p r o p y l Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e , Sodium C h l o r i d e , T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e , F r a g r a n c e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye(s).

SOURCE:

Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s :

Formulas

516

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioning Hand Cleanser Ingredients: %w/w Phase A : T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 0.10 Water 52.65 Cocamidopropyl A m i ne O x i d e (Tegami ne O x i d e WS 35) 5.00 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( 3 0 % ) 25.00 Sodi urn L a u r y l Sul f a t e ( 3 0 % ) 10.00 PEG-20 G l y c e r y l I s o s t e a r a t e ( T a g a t 12) 0.50 Preservatives P.S. Color 0,s. Fragrance 0,s. *Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) Sodium PCA ( a n d ) G l y c i n e ( a n d ) F r u c t o s e ( a n d ) Urea ( a n d ) N i a c i n a m i d e ( a n d ) I n o s i t o l ( a n d ) Sodium Benzoate ( a n d ) L a c t i c Ac d ( L a c t i l ) 0.25 C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l u t i o n ) t o pH 6.5 Phase 8 : 1 .50 PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e ( A n t i 1 71) Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e L-7 o r F ) 5.00 Phase C : Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n ) As Needed f o r V i s c o s i t y Procedure: 1 . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 2. A d j u s t pH w i t h t h e C i t r i c A c i d . 3 . Add t h e PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e . M i x u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . Viscosity w i l l increase. 4 . Add t h e c o c a m i d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e . 5. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h t h e s a l t . N o t e : ALES/ALS can be s u b s t i t u t e d f o r t h e SLES/SLS * O p t i o n a l : P l a n t e x t r a c t s can b e s u b s t i t u t e d f o r t h e L a c t i l . SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n Emollient Liquid Hand Soap Weight , % Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (30%) Mackanate LA Mackalene 426 Mackami de CMA Mackernium 007 M a c k e s t e r EGDS Sodi urn C h l o r i d e Paragon P r e s e r v a t i v e Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e q s t o

40.0 20.0

6.0 2.0 1.2

1.o 0.8 q.s. 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add t h e f i r s t seven components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 70C. 2. B l e n d u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous. 3 . Cool t o 50C. and add Paragon p r e s e r v a t i v e , f r a g r a n c e and d y e . 4 . A d j u s t ph t o 5.5-6.5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 5 . Cool and f i l l .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Soaps and Hand Cleaners

51 7

Cream Soap Ingredients : A m i t e r LGS-5 ( D i s t e a r e t h - 5 L a u r o y l G l u t a m a t e ) P y r o t e r CPI-40 (PEG-40 H y d r o g e n a t e d C a s t o r O i l PCA Isostearate) Emalex 6300 M-ST (PEG-150 M o n o s t e a r a t e ) Emal ex 6300 D I - S T (PEG-1 50 D i s t e a r a t e ) A j i d e w N-50 (Sodium PCA) 1,3-Butylene Glycol Cocoami de DEA Sodium T e t r a d e c e n e S u l f o n a t e : AOS Sodium Cocoyl S a r c o s i n a t e (30%) A m i s o f t LS-11 (Sodium L a u r o y l G l u t a m a t e ) Water

W!N

2.0 4.0

3.0 1.o

5.0 19.0 5.0 3.0 2.0

36.0 20.0

Specifications: pH: 5 . 0 V i s : 2500 cps T h i s cream soap has a p e a r l e s c e n t appearance, and good f o a m i n g c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s .

s o f t touch

F o r m u l a H-046 Cream Soap I n g r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: Sodi um L a u r y l G1 utamate/Ami s o f t LS-1 1 Sodi um S t e a r a t e Sodium L a u r a t e Glycerin Polyoxyethylene S o r b i t a n Monolaurate (20 E.O.) Water C r y s t a l l i z a t i o n Temp: 46 d e g r e e s C e n t i g r a d e pH: 8.6 (5% a q . s o l u t i o n , 25 d e g r e e s C e n t i g r a d e ) Formula AS-354-G

SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

% Weight 15.00 17.00 7.00 24.00 5.00 qs

518

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cream Soap (NO. H-046)

Ingredients: A m i t e r LGS-5 ( D i s t e a r e t h - 5 L a u r o y l G l u t a m a t e ) P y r o t e r CPI-40 (PEG-40 Hydrogenated C a s t o r O i l PCA Isostearate) Emalex 6300 M-ST (PEG-150 M o n o s t e a r a t e ) Emalex 6300 D I - S T (PEG-I50 D i s t e a r a t e ) A j i d e w N-50 (Sodium PCA) 1 ,3-Butyl enegl y c o l Cocamide DEA Sodium T e t r a d e c e n e S u l f o n a t e : AOS Sodi um Cocoyl S a r c o s i n a t e (30%) A m i s o f t LS-11 (Sodium L a u r o y l G l u t a m a t e ) Water

Wt% 2.0 4.0 3.0 1.o 5.0 19.0

5.0 3.0 2.0 36.0 20.0

Speci f ic a t ions : pH: 5 . 0 V i s c o s i t y : 2500 cps T h i s cream soap has a p e a r l e s c e n t appearance, good f o a m i n g c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s .

s o f t t o u c h and

Bar Soap Ingredients: A m i s o f t GS-11 (Sodium Hydrogenated T a l l o w G l u t a m a t e & Sodium Cocoyl G l u t a m a t e ) Water Cetyl Alcohol T i t a n um D i o x de D i sod um EDTA

Wt% 84.0 8.8 7.0 0.1 0.1

Cream Soap I n g r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: Sodi um L a u r y l G1 utamate/Ami s o f t LS-11 Sodi um S t e a r a t e Sodi um L a u r a t e Glycerin Polyoxyethylene S o r b i t a n Monolaurate (20 E . O . ) Water C r y s t a l l i z a t i o n Temp 46, d e g r e e s C e n t i g r a d e pH: 8 . 6 (5% a q . s o l u t i o n , 25 degrees C e n t i g r a d e ) Formula AS-354-G

SOURCE:

A j i n o m o t o USA,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

YO Wei g h t 15.00 17.00 7.00 24.00 5.00 as

Soaps and Hand Cleaners

519

Emollient Hand Cleanser Ingredients: %w/w Phase A : Water 47 IO0 T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 0.10 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( 3 0 % ) 30.00 Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (30%) 10.00 PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate ( T e g o s o f t GC) 1.oo *Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) Sodium PCA ( a n d ) G l y c i n e ( a n d ) F r u c t o s e (and) Urea ( a n d ) N i a c i n a m i d e ( a n d ) I n o s i t o l ( a n d ) Sodium Benzoate ( a n d ) L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l ) 0.25 PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e 0 25 Preservatives Q.S. Color Q.S. Fragrance Q.S. C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l u t i o n ) t o pH 6 . 5 I

Phase B: PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e ( A n t i 1 171) Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ( a n d ) G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e (Tego B e t a i n e HS) Phase C : Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n )

I 40 10 00

As Needed f o r V i s c o s

Procedure: 1 . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 2 . A d j u s t pH w i t h t h e C i t r i c A c i d . 3 . Add t h e PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e . M i x u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . V i s c o s i t y w i 11 i n c r e a s e . 4. Add t h e Tego B e t a i n e H S . 5. Adjust viscosity with the s a l t . N o t e : ALES/ALS can be s u b s t i t u t e d f o r t h e SLES/SLS. * O p t i o n a l - p l a n t e x t r a c t s can b e s u b s t i t u t e d f o r t h e L a c t i l .

SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n Clear Emollient Hand Soap

TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e (40%) Mackam 35HP Mackalene 426 M a c k s t a t DM Water, Dye, F r a g r a n c e q s t o

W e i g h t ,% 35.0 10.0

6.0 q.s. 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add components t o w a t e r and h e a t t o 40C. 2 . B l e n d u n t i l c l e a r 3 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 - 6 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 4 . Cool and f i l l .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

520

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Liquid Soap Clear, 11.2% active ingredient Recipe: A Genapol LRO l i q u i d Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e B

Perfume C e t i o l HE PEG-7 G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e Water Dyestuff solution Preservative Genapol L-3 Laureth-3 Genagen CAB Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e

35 00% I

0.20% 1 .OO% 55.30% 4,s. q.s.

2.00% 6.00%

C Sodium c h l o r i d e 0.50% Procedure: I One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f B a r e added t o A . I 1 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. I11 F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h C . Formula A I I / 1 0 2 7 Liquid Soap With pearl lustre effect, 14.6% active ingredient Recipe: Hostapon SCID Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e

A

4.00%

B

Water

53.90%

C

Genapol ZRO l i q u i d 30.00% Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e Perfume 0.30% Genapol PGL 4.00% G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) Cocamide MEA and PPG-4 D e c e t h - 4 9,s. Dyestuff solution P r e s e r v a t iv e q.s. Genagen CAB 6.00% Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e

D Sodium c h l o r i d e 1 .BO% Procedure: I D i s s o l v e A i n B a t 60C. I 1 One a f t e r a n o t h e r t h e components o f C a r e added t o I a t 35C. I11 I f n e c e s s a r y a d j u s t t h e pH. I V F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h D. Formula A I I / 1 0 3 3 SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s

Soaps and Hand Cleaners

521

Liquid Soap Clear, slightly yellow gel Material/CTFA-Index: Hoe S 3267/Cocamidopropyl Water

Betaine

16.00% 41 . 2 0

Water Genagen C A 050 Sodium C h l o r i d e B e l s i l DMC 6 0 3 1 / D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l Preservatives, pigments, fragrances D i s s o l v e HOE S 3267 i n w a t e r ,

37.30 2.00 2.00 0.50 9.s.

m i x i n t h e r e m a i n i n g components.

T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 230 AH Liquid Soap Clear, high-viscosity gel with good foaming effect. M a t e r i a1 /CTFA-Index: A : Water T y l o s e H 4000 P / H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e

B: W a c k e r - B e l s i l

DMC 6 0 3 8 / D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l

C: Comperlan KD/Cocamide DEA Texapon NA/Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e P r e s e r v a t i v e s , pigments, Mix A ,

fragrances

add B , s t i r C i n t o AB

F o r m u l a 1067 A H

SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

77.00% 1.oo 3.00 3.00 16.00 9,s.

522

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Liquid Waterless Hand Cleaner % b y Weiaht

Inpredi ents: A . Veegum Water

2.00

73.00 4.00 3.00 0.50

B. G l y c e r i n T e r g i t o 1 NP-10 AMP-Regul a r

10.00

C . D e o d o r i zed k e r o s e n e Oleic acid A r l a c e l 186 Clearlan

1.50

5.00 1-00

9,s.

Preservative

Procedure: S l o w l y add Veegum t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e s h e a r , C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l smooth. Add B t o A and h e a t t o 50C. Add C t o A/B. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add d e s i r e d preservative. Consistency: Pourable l i q u i d Suggested P a c k a g i n g : Pump d i s p e n s e r Comments: Veegum s t a b i l i z e s and t h i c k e n s t h i s l i q u i d e m u l s i o n . I n t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n , g l y c e r i n s e r v e s as a humectant w h i l e t h e l a n o l i n helps prevent defatting o f the skin. F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0125 s u g g e s t e d by R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . Liquid Soap Ingredients: Ammonium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , 60% Cocamidopropyl b e t a i n e Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine Sodium c h l o r i d e Glycol d i stearate C i t r i c acid Methylparaben Propylparaben Bronopol Water, c o l o r , f r a g r a n c e

% by Wei a h t 24.00 6.00 1.50 1.30 1.oo 0.25 0.15 0.05 0.05 q . s . t o 100.00

Procedure: Heat w a t e r t o 70-75C. Add a l l i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t f r a g r a n c e and B r o n o p o l . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. Cool and add B r o n o p o l and f r a g r a n c e and f i l l . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0130 f r o m C o s m e t i c s and T o i l e t r i e s , Vol 101, J u l y 1986

SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

Soaps and Hand Cleaners

523

Lotion Hand Cleaner with Abrasive and Ritavena 5 I n q r e d ients: %w/w P a r t A: 1 . D i s t i l l e d Water 39.55 2 . B i o - T e r g e AS-40 25.00 3. Methylparaben 0.15 Part B: 4. R i t a s y n t I P 4.00 5 . P a t i o n i c ISL 3.00 6 . R i t a p e g 150 DS 1 .oo Part C: 7. Ritavena 5 2.00 8 . D i s t i l l e d Water (100C) 20.00 P a r t D: 9 . W a l n u t S h e l l s (AD-7B Type f r o m A g r a s h e l l , I n c . ) 5.00 Part E: 10.NaCl (25% S o l u t i o n ) PS 11 . K a t h o n CG 0.10 1 2 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (50% S o l u t i o n ) 0.15 13.Perfume 0.05 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat P a r t s A and B t o 165F. Combine w i t h i m p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . P r e m i x P a r t C i n a b l e n d e r f o r 2 m i n u t e s . Add P a r t s C and D t o AB m i x t u r e . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 120F. Add P a r t E. A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 w i t h T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (50% S o l u t i o n ) . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h NaCl (25% S o l u t i o n ) . F o r m u l a 11 4-25 Lotion Hand Cleaner with Abrasive and Ritavena 5 Inaredi ents: %w/w P a r t A: 1 . D i s t i l l e d Water 40.10 2 . B i o - T e r g e AS-40 25.00 3. Methylparaben 0.15 Part 8 : 4. R i t a s y n t I P 4.00 5 . P a t i o n i c ISL 3.00 0.50 6. R i t a p e g 150 DS Part C: 7. Ritavena 5 2.00 8 . D i s t i l l e d Water (1OOC) 20.00 P a r t D: 9 . Walnut S h e l l s (AD-78 Type f r o m A g r a s h e l l , I n c . ) 5.00 P a r t E: 10.NaC1 (25% S o l u t i o n ) as 1 1 . K a t h o n CG 0.05 12 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (50% S o l u t i o n ) 0.15 13.Perfume 0.05 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat P a r t s A and B t o 165F. Combine. P r e m i x P a r t C i n a b l e n d e r f o r 2 m i n u t e s . Add P a r t s C and D t o AB m i x t u r e . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 120F. Add P a r t E . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 w i t h T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (50% S o l u t i o n ) . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h NaCl (25% Solution). F o r m u l a 114-35 SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : RITAVENA 5 Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

524

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shebu Bar Soap A Shebu beauty bar which combats dryness and leaves a luxurious after-feel. 9p4JJ Function Ingredients: Soap Base Base: Palm Coco q.s. Color: Ye1 low Color Fragrance: Alpine Floralistic 0.75% Odor Emol 1 iency Addit: Shebu Refined (Shea Butter) 0.75% Pationic 138C (Sodium Lauroyl Mi ldness Lactylate) 0.50% Moi sturi z0 .SO% Pationic ISL (Sodium Isostearoyl ati on Lactylate) Opaci f i er Ti02 0.50% Ref. N o . : 117-65A

Shebu Glycerine Bar Soap For sensitive skin with pure natural glyceri ne and Shebu. Leaves your skin soft and clean without feeling tight or dry. Inqredients: %w/w Function Soap Base Base: Veg. Translucent q.s. Color Color: Gold 100% Odor Fragrance: Alpine Floralistic Addit: Pationic 138C (Sodium Lauroyl 0.50% Mi 1 dness Lactyl ate) 0 50% Moi sturi zaPationic I S L (Sodium Isostearoyl tion Lactylate) 1.00% Emolliency Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea Butter) Ref. N o . : 117-658 I

Soap Base Beauty Bar

A h i g h foaming beauty bar which combats dryness and leaves a luxurious after-feel. Ingredients: %w/w Function 1 . Soap Base 80/20 Tallow/Coco 94.00 Cleaning, Lather q.s. Caking 2. Versenex 80 (Pentasodium Pentetate) 3. Turpinal 4NL (Tetrasodiuum Etidronate) q.s. Caking 4. Fragrance Oil 0-79-531 1-00 Odor 5. Rita PEO-1 (PEG-5M) 1.50 Slip, Feel 6. Pationic ISL (Na Isostearoyl Lactylate) 3.00 Mildness, Lather 0 50 7. Titanium Dioxide Opacity Compounding Procedure: Pre-mix fragrance into Pationic ISL. Combine other materi a1 s u n t i l uniform. Add the Pationic ISL/fragrance m xture and continue blending until uniform. pH: 10.0-10.5 Ref. No.: H-89-P-10 SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp.: Shower/Bath Care

Soaps and Hand Cleaners

525

Shebu Bar Soap A Shebu b e a u t y b a r w h i c h combats d r y n e s s and l e a v e s a luxurious after-feel. Ingredients: Base: Palm Coco Color: Yellow Fragrance: A l p i n e F l o r a l i s t i c A d d i t : Shebu R e f i n e d (Shea B u t t e r ) P a t i o n i c 138C (Sodium L a u r o y l Lactyl ate) P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l Lactylate) Ti02 R e f . No. 117-65A

%w/w q.s. 0.75 0.75

Function Soap Base Color Odor Emol 1 iency

0.50

Mildness

0.50 0.50

Moisturization Opaci f ie r

Shebu Glycerine Bar Soap F o r s e n s i t i v e s k i n w i t h p u r e n a t u r a l g l y c e r i n e and Shebu. Leaves y o u r s k i n s o f t and c l e a n w i t h o u t f e e l i n g t i g h t o r d r y . Inaredients: Base: Veg. T r a n s l u c e n t Color: Gold Fragrance: A l p i n e F l o r a l i s t i c A d d i t : P a t i o n i c 138C (Sodium Lauroyl L a c t y l a t e ) P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l Lactylate) Shebu- WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) R e f . No. 117-656 SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:

%w/w q.s. 100.00

B a t h & Shower Care

Function Soap Base Color Odor

0.50

M i 1dness

0.50 1 00

Moi s t u r i z a t i on E m o l 1 i ency

.

526

Cosmetic and Toiletrj Formulations

Synthetic Detergent (SYNDET) Cleansing Bar T h i s m i l d , s y n t h e t i c d e t e r g e n t b a r g e n t l y c l e a n s and p r o v i d e s c o p i o u s , l u x u r i o u s l a t h e r , l e a v i n g a smooth a f t e r - f e e l on t h e s k i n , Veegum F, m i c r o n i zed Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e , r e d u c e s s o f t e n i n g o f t h e b a r i n t h e soap d i s h a f t e r u s e . Vanseal LS, l a u r o y l s a r c o s i n e , when m e l t e d , a c t s as a s o l v e n t f o r t h e s t e a r i c a c i d and sodium c o c o y l i s e t h i o n a t e . Vanlube PCX, BHT i s used as an a n t i o x i d a n t . Inaredient: A : Vanseal LS, L a u r o y l S a r c o s i n e Stearic Acid Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h o n a t e B:

I by W e i q h t *

32.63 32.64 32.63

Veegum F, Magnesium A1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e Vanlube PCX, BHT Sodium H y d r o x i d e S o u t i o n t o p H 6 . 5 P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, ragrance

2.00 0.10

q.s. q.9.

*As R e c e i v e d B a s i s

M i x i ne P r o c e d u r e : Heat Vanseal LS t o 50C. Add s t e a r i c a c i d and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l t h e m i x t u r e i s c l e a r . Add sodium c o c o y l i s e t h i o n a t e and m i x u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . M a i n t a i n t h e t e m p e r a t u r e between 5 0 and 60C. Add p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g each u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Pour t h e m i x t u r e i n t o warm (50C) soap molds and cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .

SOURCE;

R.T.

V a n d e r b i l t Co.,

Inc.:

F o r m u l a No. 4 5 5

Cream Hand Cleanser Wei a h t ,% 78.0 5.0

Mackanate LO-Special Glycerine Mackami de PKM M a c k e r n i um 0 0 7 M a c k s t a t DM Water, F r a g r a n c e q s t o

4.0 2.0 q.s. 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add Mackamide PKM and g l y c e r i n e t o Mackanate LO-Special and h e a t t o 70C. 2. B l e n d u n t i 1 homogeneous 3 . D i s s o l v e Mackernium 0 0 7 i n r e m a i n i n g w a t e r and s l o w l y add t o product. 4 . B l e n d u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous. 5 . Cool t o 50C w i t h m i l d a g i t a t i o n . 6 . Add M a c k s t a t DM, f r a g r a n c e and c o o l w i t h c o n t i n u o u s a g i t a t i o n . I

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Soaps and Hand Cleaners

527

Waterless Hand Cleaner Weight%

Inaredient: Part A: Dei o n i zed Water Tween 80 ( 1 ) G lyceri n D i s o d i um EDTA P a r t B: Odorless Mineral S p i r i t s F i n s o l v TN ( 2 ) Acetulan (3) Pemulen TR-2 ( 4 ) Carbopol 954 ( 5 ) Part C: Triethanolamine,

99%

P a r t D: Germaben I I E ( 6 )

Function

62.45 0.40 4.00 0.05

D i 1u e n t Surfactant Humectant C h e l a t i n g Agent

30.00 1 .OO 0.50 0.30 0.20

Sol v e n t Emollient Emol 1 ie n t Emulsifier Thickener

0.40

N e u t r a l iz i n g Agent

0.70

Preservative

P o l y s o r b a t e 80 ( I C 1 A m e r i c a s ) C12-Cl5 A l c o h o l s Benzoate ( F i n e t e x ) C e t y l Acetate (and) A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n Alcohol (Amerchol) A c r y l ates/ClO-C30 A1 k y l A c r y l a t e C r o s s p o l ymer ( BFGoodri c h ) :5) Carbomer ( B F G o o d r i c h ) : 6 ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben ( S u t t o n Labs) :1) :2) 13) :4)

P r e p a r a t i o n Procedure: 1 ) Prepare P a r t A i n a vessel which w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e formulation. 2) P r e p a r e P a r t B i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . Pemulen and Carbopol s h o u l d be s l u r r i e d i n t h i s phase. 3 ) Add P a r t B t o t h e P a r t A v e s s e l . M i x f o r 15-20 m i n u t e s . 4 ) Add P a r t C and m i x v i g o r o u s l y t o p r o d u c e a smooth p r o d u c t . 5) M i x P a r t D i n t o e m u l s i o n . Cease a g i t a t i o n and f i l l c o n t a i n e r s .

SOURCE:

BF G o o d r i c h

Co,:

Formula PO002

Section XII Sun Care Products

528

Sun Care Products

529

After Sun Lotion White creamy lotion. Easily spread

M a t e r i a1 /CTFA- I ndex : A: Mineral ni 1 low v i s c o s i t y Stearic Acid Cetyl Alcohol B : Water A1 l a n t o i n / 5 - U r e i d o - h y d a n t o i n Triethanolamine C: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l B e l s i l PDM 20/Phenyl D i m e t h i c o n e D : B e l s i l CM l O O O / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a . ) P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume, pigments

Dimethiconol

5.00% 5.00 1.50 67.20 0.50 0.80 3.00 2.00 15.00 q.s.

Heat A and B t o 65C. Add A t o B w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add C and s t i r u n t i l c o o l , add D a t a p p r o x . 30-4OC. T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C more t h a n 10 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 6 0 6 AH Sun Tan Cream Soft, white cream, well absorbed

M a t e r i a 1ICTFA- Index : A: Crodawachs GP 2 0 0 / S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a . ) PEG S t e a r a t e Teginacid/Glyceryl S t e a r a t e ( a . ) Ceteareth-20 B e l s i l PDM 1000/Phenyl D i m e t h i c o n e Eusolex 6300 Eusolex 8020 B: Water C: B e l s i l CM l O O O / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a . ) D i m e t h i c o n o l P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfumes, pigments ~~

3 . 80% 5.00 3.50 2.50 1.50 73.70 10.00 q.s.

Heat A and B t o 70C. S t i r i n t o B and add C . Temperature s t a b i l i t y : 3 weeks a t 45C. F o r m u l a t i o n 578 A H

Sun Tan Oil Colourless, clear, low viscosity M a t e r i alJCTFA-Index: __ A : B e l s i l CM 0 2 5 / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e Isopropyl Myri s t a t e Mineral o i l P a r s o l MCX/Octyl Methoxycinnamate Preservatives, pigments, fragrances M i x A , add P a r s o l MCX and m i x . Temperature s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 197 AH

SOURCE:

Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

lO.OD% 10.00 77.00

3.00 q.s

530

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

After-Sun-Milk Recipe: H o s t a p h a t K L 340 N T r i l a u r e t h - 4 Phosphate H o s t a c e r i n DGS P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-4 S t e a r a t e M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate C e t i o l SN Cetearyl Isononanoate Jojoba o i l Walnut o i l D-Panthenol B-Caroti n Antioxidant

1.50% 4.00% 3.00% 3.00% 3.00% 3.00% 3.00%

1 .OO% q.s. q.s.

C a r b o p o l 980 Carbomer

0.40%

A 1 1a n t o i n A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . E t h y l e n e d i a m i n e T e t r a a c e t i c Acid-Sodium S a l t C i t r i c a c i d (10% i n w a t e r ) G1 y c e r i n e NaOH (10% i n w a t e r ) Water P r e s e r v a t i ve

0.20% 0.10%

C o l l a g e n KD Ethanol Perfume

0.25% 3.00% 1.60% 67.15% q.s. 3.00% 1.50% 0.30%

Procedure: I M e l t A a t 70C, t h e n add 8 . I 1 Heat C t o 70C. I11 S t i r I 1 i n t o I. I V S t i r unti 1 cool. V A t 35C add t h e components o f D t o I V . V I Homogeni ze if n e c e s s a r y .

SOURCE: H o e c h s t : G u i d e F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r C o s m e t i c s & T o i l e t r i e s : Formula A VI/3016

Sun Care Products

531

After Sun Milk Inpredients: P a r t s bv Weight P a r t A - O i l Phase: Egg y o l k e x t r a c t (Tensami 8 / 0 9 ) 100.00 R e f i n e d avocado o i l 20.00 Calendula e x t r a c t 0.10 Tocopherol 0.10 P a r t 6-Water Phase: Dei o n i zed w a t e r SQFlOOO L e c i t h i n - x a n t h a n gum (Tensami 1 / 0 5 ) 7 -00 Calendula e x t r a c t 20.00 270 S o l a r i u m HS 30.00 Amigel i n aqueous s o l u t i o n a t 2% 250.00 Part C: Isopropyl myristate 30.00 Carbomer 940 ( C a r b o p o l 940) 2.00 P a r t D: Bronopol 0.60 Myacide SP 0.50 P a r t E: Perfume 2.00 Procedure: P r e p a r e A and B phases ( d o n o t h e a t ) . Add phase A t o phase B. W h i l e a g i t a t i n g , add phase C and t h e n t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase D one by one. Add phase E. B a l a n c e t h e pH a r o u n d 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0275E s u g g e s t e d i n Soap, P e r f u m e r y , C o s m e t i c s ; O c t o b e r , 1993 is s u e . Moisturizing Hydrogel with B-Glucan T h i s p r o d u c t i s used a f t e r e x p o s u r e t o t h e sun t o r e g a i n t h e m o i s t u r e l o s t b y t h e s k i n . H e a l i n g and m o i s t u r i z i n g a r e t w o o f i t s u n i q u e p r o p e r t i e s w h i c h 8-Glucan has on i n f l a m e d s k i n (sunburn). Beesmilk p l a c e s a p r o t e c t i v e b a r r i e r over t h e s k i n t o preven moisture l o s s . Inaredients: % by W e i q h t A . Carbomer 940, 2% 54.00 3.70 G1 ycosome 3.50 APT 2.00 Ginkgo e x t r a c t 5.00 Aloe vera gel 4.00 Polyquaternary spearmint e x t r a c t 3.00 F i r m i ng 1 iposome 0.70 Phenoni p 3.20 T r i s Amino 13.40 B. D e i o n i z e d water 0.40 Methylparaben 0.08 D i s o d i urn EDTA 0.02 C . 6-Glucan, 70% 7.00 D . Beesmi 1 k Procedure: Add A u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . Heat B t o 8OC. A t 8OC, add C; m i x w e l l . Cool BC t o 30C, add t o A under a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add D t o ABC; m i x i ng u n t i 1 homogeneous. F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0326 s u g g e s t e d by K o s t e r Keunen SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co : Angus P r o d u c t Formul a r y I

532

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Dry Touch Physical Sunscreen T h i s f o r m u l a i s n o t an e m u l s i o n b u t r a t h e r a s u s p e n s i o n o f s e v e r a l w a t e r - i n s o l u b l e i n g r e d i e n t s in w a t e r . Veegum P1 us p r e v e n t s t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s f r o m s e t t l i n g a n d / o r s e p a r a t i n g . The p h y s i c a l s u n s c r e e n used is m i c r o n i z e d T i t a n i um D i o x i d e . T h i s formula a l s o c o n t a i n s liposomes w i t h a payload o f t h e w e l l known m o i s t u r i z i n g a g e n t s Sodium PCA and amino a c i d s . A s i l i c o n e o i l d i s p e r s i o n i s a l s o i n c l u d e d t o enhance a p p l i c a t i o n p r o p e r t i e s . The f o r m u l a c o n t a i n s no e m u l s i f y i n g a g e n t s . Ingredient: A : D e i o n i z e d Water Veegum P l u s (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e ( a n d ) C e l l u l o s e Gum) Rhodi g e l ( X a n t h a n Gum) B:

% by w t . *

59.70 1 .50 0.20

28 60

G l y c e r i n (and) T i t a n i u m Dioxide**

I

C: D e i o n i z e d Water ( a n d ) Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) D i m e t h i c o n o l ( a n d ) Phosphol i p i d s ( a n d ) Phenoxyethanol ( a n d ) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) Carbomer ( a n d ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e ( a n d ) E t h y l paraben (and) Propylparaben (and) Butylparaben*** D:

Preservative

5.00 q.s.

E : D e i o n i z e d Water ( a n d ) Sodium PCA ( a n d ) P h o s p h o l i p i d s ( a n d ) Phenoxyethanol ( a n d ) T o c o p h e r y l A c e t a t e ( a n d ) Xanthan Gum ( a n d ) A r g i n i n e ( a n d ) L y s i n e ( a n d ) G l y c i n e (and) Methylparaben (and) P r o l i n e (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Butylparaben**** 5.00

*As Received B a s i s * * T i 0 2 Sperse GLY ***Satin F i n i s h ****Moi s t u r i z i n g Liposomes

M i x i ng Procedure: Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum P l u s and R h o d i g e l . Add t h e b l e n d t o t h e P a r t A w a t e r a t room t e m p e r a t u r e , m i x i n g w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a t 1800 rpm. C o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 30 m i n u t e s . Add P a r t B and m i x 10 m i n u t e s a t 180 0 r p m . Add P a r t s C and D t o t h e b a t c h i n t h e o r d e r shown. M i x P a r t C f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 1800 rpm b e f o r e a d d i n g P a r t D . M i x P a r t D 5 m i n u t e s a t t h e same speed. Slow t h e m i x e r t o 500 r p m and a d d P a r t E. M i x 5 m i n u t e s and package. Product C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s : V i s c o s i t y : 1300-1700 cps ( B r o o k f i e l d Model LVT, pH: 7 . 5 - 7 . 8

SOURCE: R . T .

V a n d e r b i l t Co.,

Inc.:

F o r m u l a No. 464

#3 @ 60 rpm)

Sun Care Products

533

High SPF Sunscreen Cream Ingredient: P a r t A: Dei o n i zed Water Glycerin D i s o d i um EDTA P a r t B: O c t y l Methoxy Cinnamate O c t y l S a l i c y 1a t e Oxybenzone C12-Cl5 A1 coho1 s Benzoate ( 1 ) S o r b i t a n 01 e a t e Pemulen TR-1 ( 2 ) C a r b o p o l 980 ( 3 ) Part C: Propylene G l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben ( 4 ) P a r t D: T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (99%) (1) (2) (3) (4)

Wei g h t % 73.37 2 -50 0.03

F u n c t ion

D i 1u e n t Humectant C h e l a t i ng Agent

7.50 5.00 5.00 4.00 0.30 0.30 0.50

UVB A b s o r b e r UVB A b s o r b e r UVA A b o s r b e r E m o l l ie n t / S o l v e n t Surfactant Emulsifier Thickener

0.80

P r e s e r v a t i ve

0.70

N e u t r a l iz i n g Agent

F i n s o l v TN ( F i n e t e x ) Acrylates/ClO-C30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich) Carbomer ( B F G o o d r i c h ) Germaben I I E ( S u t t o n )

Preparation: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. 2 . Combine f i r s t f i v e P a r t 8 i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . M i x u n t i l oxybenzone has d i s s o l v e d . Warming w i l l h a s t e n d i ssol u t i o n 3 . Add Pemulen TR-1 and C a r b o p o l 980 t o P a r t B v e s s e l . M i x t o b r e a k - u p a n y s o f t a g g l o m e r a t e s o f powder. 4 . W i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t 8 t o P a r t A . M i x f o r 30-40 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l a smooth, n o n - g r a i n y d i s p e r s i o n i s a p p a r e n t . Add P a r t C . 5 . Add P a r t D and m i x v i g o r o u s l y u n t i l a smooth, l u s t r o u s product i s obtained.

.

F o r m u l a 700-213-8C

SOURCE:

BFGoodrich Co.: W a t e r p r o o f Sunscreen E m u l s i o n s

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

534

Low Solids

Highly Emollient Suntan Lotion

L i p i d l a y e r r e l a t e d a t t r i b u t e s f r o m R i t a d e r m and l o w v i s c o s i t y rheology from Acritamer gives a l u b r i c i o u s , low sol i d s , broad s p e c t r u m UV s u n s c r e e n . F u n c t ion %w/w Ingredients: 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 76.10 2 . A c r i t a m e r 941 (Carbomer 941) 0.10 Rheol ogy , S t a b i 1 iz e r 3 . R i t a IPM ( I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ) 5.00 Emoll ie n t 4. R i t a d e r m ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 5.00 Moisturizing 5. Ritalan (Lanolin O i l ) 1.00 Emoll ie n t 6 . R i t a c e t y l ( A c e t y l a t e d Lanol n) 2.50 Emol 1 ie n t Emu1 s i f ie r 7 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0.70 Emulsifier 8 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l Monostea a t e ) 1.50 Emulsifier 9. R i t a Stearic Acid 2-00 Emoll ie n t 10.Mineral O i l 2.00 11 O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA Sunscreen 2.50 N e u t r a l iz e r 1 2 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (50%) 1.60 Odor 13. Fragrance q.s. Compoundlng P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e 2 i n t o 1 and h y d r a t e 15 m i n u t e s . Heat t o 165F. S e p a r a t e l y combine i t e m s 3-11 and h e a t t o 165F. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Combine phases w i t h m i x i n g . N e u t r a l i z e w i t h 1 2 . Cool w i t h m i x i n g t o 120F. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e . Cool and package. R e f . No. 118-13

----

.

Sun Care DIN Standard Reference (USFDA Tentative Final Monograph) R e f e r e n c e s t a n d a r d used i n FDA Monograph as s t a n d a r d . %w/W Function Ingredients: 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 83.90 2 . A c r i t a m e r 934 (Carbomer 934) 0.10 S t a b i 1iz e r , Rheology 3. G l y c e r i n e 3.40 Emollient 4. Methylparaben 0.10 Preservative 5. Propylene Glycol 1.00 Emollient 6. Mineral O i l 5.00 E m o l l ie n t 7. R i t a S t e a r i c A c i d 1.50 Emulsifier 8. R i t a Cetearyl Alcohol 0.40 Emulsifier 9 . Propylparaben 0.10 Preservative 10.P-Methoxy-Cinnamic A c i d - 2 - E t h y l hexyl Ester 2.70 Sunscreen 1.80 Neutralizer 11 T r i e t h a n o l ami n e (99% S o l n ) Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e 2 i n t o 1 and h y d r a t e 15 m i n u t e s w i t h m i x i n g . Add 3 - 5 . Heat t o 165F. S e p a r a t e l y combine 6-10 and h e a t t o 165F. M i x w e l l . Combine i n t o aqueous phase. N e u t r a l i z e w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l . R e f , No. 118-66

----

.

.

SOURCE: R.I.T.A. C o r p . : Sun C a r e Manual

Sun Care Products

535

Nourishing UVB Gel Sunscreen B a s i c g e l l e d f o r m u l a t i o n w i t h aqueous UVB s u n s c r e e n s . S k i n n o u r i s h m e n t and a n t i - i r r i t a n c y , In a r e d i e n t s : 1 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer 940) 2 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 3 . Ritapan D (d-Panthenol) 4 . DEA Methoxy Cinnamate 5 . SD A l c o h o l ( E t h a n o l @ 95%) 6 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l n A1 coho1 ) 7 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y Lactyl ate) 8 . P r e s e r v a t i ve 9. Fragrance 10.NaOH (1 8% S o l n . )

%w/w 1.00 74.90 0.20 3.00 10.00

Function G e l l i n g Agent

----

Conditioner Sunscreen Sol v e n t / S o l u b i 1iz e r

8.00

Emollient

0.50 q s q.s. 2.40

S o l u b i 1 iz e r Preservative Odor Neutralizer

. .

Comooundina P r o c e d u r e : Prepare-Carbomer g e l b y d i s p e r s i n g i t e m 1 i n t o i t e m 2 w i t h a g i t a t i o n . N e u t r a l i z e w i t h i t e m 1 0 . S e p a r a t e l y combine i t e m s 3,4 and 5 and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d and u n i f o r m . Add t o Carbomer g e l w i t h l o w s h e e r m i x i n g , t h e n add i t e m 6 . S o l u b i l i z e f r a g r a n c e ( 9 ) w i t h ( 7 ) , add t o Carbomer g e l . P r e s e r v e and package. R e f . No. 118-152 Bain de Soleil Type Orange Gelee Broad s p e c t r u m UV p r o t e c t i o n i n a n o n - g r e a s y w a t e r p r o o f g e l t y p e f o r m u l a based on R i t a p l a s t . P r o d u c t has h i g h body g l o s s . Inqredients : 1 . R i t a p l a s t - 50W 2 . R i t a IPM ( I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ) 3. Propylparaben 4. Menthyl A n t h r a n i l a t e 5 . Ritaphenone-3 (Benzophenone-3)

%w/w 68.00 28.00 0.08 2.92 1.OO

Function F i l m Former Emollient Preservative Sunscreen Sunscreen

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Dissolve item 3 i n t o a portion o f item 1. D i l u t e item 2 i n t o r e m a i n i n g i t e m 1 . Add 1 k e w i s e i t e m s 4 and 5 w i t h m i l d s t i r r i n g . Add b l e n d 3 / 1 , u n t i l un form, and package. R e f . No. 118-146

SOURCE:

R.I.T.A.

Corp.:

Sun

Care Manual

536

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W-Sun-Screen-Milk Manufacturing at room temperature Reci p e : A HostaDhat K L 340 N T r i l a u r e t h - 4 Phosphate M i n e r a l o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y Isopropyl palmitate B Neo-He1 i o p a n E 1000 I s o a m y l p-Methoxycinnamate Neo-He1 iopan BB Benzophenone-3 C C a r b o p o l 980 Car bome r D Glycerine NaOH ( 1 0 % i n w a t e r ) Water Preservative E Perfume Procedure: I Add t h e s o l u t i o n o f B t o A, I 1 S t i r E i n t o I, t h e n add E . I 1 1 Homogenize i f n e c e s s a r y . Formula A VI/7007

3.00%

10.00% 5.00% a. 50% 8.50%

0.50% 3.00% 1.65% 66.65% q.s. 0.30% t h e n add C

O/W-Sun-Screen-Milk Recipe: H o s t a c e r i n DGL 1 .OO% P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-10 L a u r a t e H o s t a c e r i n DGS 4.00% P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-4 S t e a r a t e Mineral o i 1, h i g h v i s c o s i t y 6.00% 1 .OO% Avocado o i l Neo-Heliopan E 1000 9.00% I s o a m y l p-Methoxycinnamate Neo-He1 iopan BB 1 .OO% Benzophenone-3 Antioxydant q.s. 8 PNC 400 0.30% P o l y a c r y l i c A c i d-Sodi um S a l t C A q u a m o l l i n BC p d r . h . c . 0.10% E t h y l e n e T e t r a a c e t i c Acid-Sodium S a l t C i t r i c a c i d (10% i n w a t e r ) 0.25% Water 77.05% Preservative 9,s. D Perfume 0.30% Procedure: I M e l t A a t 70C, t h e n add B. I1 H e a t C t o 70C. I 1 1 S t i r I 1 i n t o I. I V S t i r u n t i l cool. V A t 35C add D t o I V . VI Homogenize i f n e c e s s a r y . Formula A VI/7200

A

SOURCE:

Hoechst: Guide Formulations

for

Cosmetics & T o i l e t r i e s

Sun Care Products

537

Sprayable Sunscreen T h i s l i g h t s u n s c r e e n a p p l i e s q u i c k l y and s p r e a d s e a s i l y . I t g i v e s an a p p r o x i m a t e w a t e r p r o o f SPF o f 15. I n g r e d i e n t (CTFA): P a r t A: D e i o n i z e d Water G1 y c e r in T r i e t h a n o l ami ne, 99%

Weight%

P a r t B: O c t y l Methoxy Cinnamate O c t y l Sal i c y 1a t e Oxybenzone C12-15 A l c o h o l s B e n z o a t e ( 1 ) Oleth-IO (2) S o r b i t a n O l e a t e (3) D i m e t h i c o n e , 100 c s . Pemulen TR-2 ( 4 ) P a r t C: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) Propylparaben ( 5 ) D i s o d i um EDTA

(1) (2) (3) (4) (5)

79.20 3.00 0.12

7.00

3.00 2.00

4.00 0.08 0.05 0.50 0.15

0.80 0.10

Function

D i 1u e n t Humectant N e u t r a l iz i ng Agent UVB A b s o r b e r UVB A b s o r b e r UVA A b s o r b e r Emollient/Solvent P. S Reduction P.S. Reduction Lubricant Emu1s i f ie r / S t a b i 1 iz e r

.

Preservative C h e l a t i n g Agent/ Viscosity Adjustment

F i n s o l v TN ( F i n e t e x ) P r o c o l OA-10 (Protameen C h e m i c a l s ) , B r i j 96 ( I C I ) Protachem SMO (Protameen C h e m i c a l s ) , Span 8 0 ( I C I ) Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich) Germaben I I E ( S u t t o n L a b o r a t o r i e s )

P r e p a r a t ion : 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a i n the e n t i r e formulation. 2. I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , combine a l l P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t d i m e t h i c o n e and Pemulen. Heat t o 45-50C t o h a s t e n d i s s o l u t i o n o f oxybenzone. D i s c o n t i n u e h e a t i n g and add Pemulen. M i x t o o b t a i n a smooth d i s p e r s i o n . Add d i m e t h i c o n e . 3. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g t o o b t a i n a smooth e m u l s i o n . 4 . Add P a r t C . D i s o d i u m EDTA s h o u l d b e added i n c r e m e n t a l l y such t h a t a B r o o k f i e l d v i s c o s i t y o f 500-1000 c p s i s a c h i e v e d (Model RVT @ 20 RPM, #2 s p i n d l e ) . S p r a y e r : Calmar Mark I 1

SOURCE: BF G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a PO012

538

Cosmetic and

Toiletry Formulations

Sprayable Sunscreen (SPF8) Inaredient: P a r t A: Dei o n i zed Water G1 y c e r in Hydrogenated S t a r c h H y d r o l y s a t e (70% S o l u t i o n )

Wei q h t %

84.20 2.00

Function D i 1u e n t

Humectant

1.50

Humectant

P a r t B: O c t y l Methoxy Cinnamate M e n t h y l A n t h r a n i l a t e (1 ) C12-Cl5 A l c o h o l s Benzoate (2) Pemulen TR-2 (3) S o r b i t a n 01 e a t e

4.50 3.50 3.00 0.15 0.10

UVB Absorber UVA A b s o r b e r Emol 1 ie n t Emu1 s i f ie r Surfactant

P a r t C: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

0.12

N e u t r a l iz i ng Agent

Part D: P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben ( 4 ) D i s o d i um EDTA

0.90 0.03

Preservative C h e l a t i n g Agent

( 1 ) Sunarome UVA ( F e l t o n ) ( 2 ) F i n s o l v TN ( F i n e t e x ) ( 3 ) A c r y l a t e s / C l O - C 3 0 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer ( 4 ) Germaben I I E ( S u t t o n )

(BF G o o d r i c h )

P r e p a r a t ion : 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l homogeneoous. 2 . Combine P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . M i x w e l l t o e n s u r e b l e n d i n g o f o i l s and b r e a k - u p o f s o f t powder lumps. 3 . W i t h m i x i n g , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x 20-40 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l a smooth d i s p e r s i o n i s a p p a r e n t . 4 . Add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e ( P a r t C) t o t h e e m u l s i o n . M i x v i g o r o u s l y t o t h i c k e n and r e d u c e o i l d r o p l e t p a r t i c l e s i z e . 5 . When e m u l s i o n i s smooth and opaque, add P a r t D . M i x f o r 5 - 1 0 m i n u t e s . P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s w i l l d i s s o l v e and t h i n t h e emulsion t o a sprayable v i s c o s i t y . Formula 700-21 3-6C

SOURCE: BF G o o d r i c h Co.:

W a t e r p r o o f Sunscreen E m u l s i o n s

Sun Care Products

539

Sprayable Sunscreen % by Weicaht Insredients: P a r t A: D e i o n i z e d Water 69.90 5.00 Propylene Glycol AMP-95 0.15 Germaben 1 1 - E 0.70 Part 8: 5.00 F i n s o l v TN Butyl Stearate 3.00 Sorbitan Oleate 0 * 20 P o l y s o r b a t e 80 0.10 Pemulen TR-2 0.20 Part C: T i o v e i l OP 15.00 Capmul 1OG-10-0 0.50 P a r t D: 0.10 D i s o d i um EDTA Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.15 Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e m i x i n g v e s s e l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . S e p a r a t e l y combine P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s , d i s p e r s i n g Pemulen c o m p l e t e l y . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . S e p a r a t e l y combine P a r t C, t h e n s l o w l y add t o t h e P a r t A / B e m u l s i o n w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add P a r t D w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n t o lower l o t i o n v i s c o s i t y . Waterproof Sunscreen (SPF 12) T h i s smooth l o t i o n c o n t a i n s no " c h e m i c a l " a b s o r b e r s and d e l V e r s u n i f o r m , n o n - c h a l k y p r o t e c t i o n . Pemulen TR-1 e n s u r e s h i g h s t a b i l i t y and a l l o w s easy s p r e a d i n g o f t h e l o t i o n . Innredients: % by W e i g h t Part A: Deionized water 67.80 Propylene Glycol 5.00 Benecel MP943PR 0.10 AMP-95 0.25 D i s o d i um EDTA 0.05 Germaben 1 1 - E 0.30 P a r t B: F i n s o l v TN 3.00 C e r a p h y l 424 4.00 Butyl Stearate 3.00 Sorbitan Oleate 0.10 Pemulen TR-1 0.20 Carbopol 2984 0.20 Part C: T i o v e i l OP 15.00 Capmul 10G-10-0 0.20 Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e f o r m u l a t i o n . Heat t o 50C. I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , combine P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . H e a t t o 5OC. U s i n g r a p i d a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x t o f o r m a smooth, v i s c o u s e m u l s i o n . U s i n g modera t e a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add P a r t C t o t h e e m u l s i o n . S l o w l y c o o l l o t i o n u s i n g c o n t i n u e d moderate a g i t a t i o n . SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y : F o r m u l a PF-O242E/Formula PF-0243E s u g g e s t e d b y BF G o o d r i c h

540

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sprayable Sunscreen Based on TiO2 Inaredient : P a r t A: D e i o n i z e d Water Propylene Glycol A m i nomethyl P r o p a n o l P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l and D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea and M e t h y l p a r a b e n and P r o p y l paraben ( 1 )

Weight%

Part B: Mineral O i l (2) Butyl Stearate (3) Sorbitan Oleate P o l y s o r b a t e 80 Pemulen TR-2 ( 4 )

I

5.00 3.00 0.20 0.10 0.20

Part C: O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (and) T i t a n i u m Dioxide (5) Polyglyceryl-10 Decaoleate ( 6 ) Part D: D i s o d i um EDTA Sodium C h l o r i d e (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6)

69.90 5.00 0.15 0 70

15.00 0.50

0.10 0.08

Function D i 1u e n t Humectant Neutralizer Preservative

Emol 1 i e n t Emol 1 ie n t P . S . Reduction P . S . Reduction Emulsifier

Active D i spersant C h e l a t i n g Agent V i s c o s i t y Redu c i n g Agent

Germaben 1 1 - E ( S u t t o n ) D r a k e o l 19 ( P e n r e c o ) (Amerchol ) A c r y l a t e s / C l O - 3 0 A l k y l A c r y l a t e C r o s s p o l y m e r (EFGoodrich) T i o v e i l OP ( T i o x i d e C h e m i c a l s ) Capmul 10G-10-0 ( K a r l s h a m n s )

Preparation Procedure: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e m i x i n g v e s s e l a t room temperature. 2 . S e p a r a t e l y combine P a r t B in g r e d i e n t s , d i s p e r s i ng Pemul en completely. 3 . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . 4 . S e p a r a t e l y combine P a r t C, t h e n s l o w l y add t o t h e P a r t A / B e m u l s i o n w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . 5 . R a p i d l y a g i t a t e ( 2 0 0 0 rpm) w i t h a m a r i n e - t y p e b l a d e f o r 20 m i n u t e s . 6 . Add P a r t D w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n t o l o w e r l o t i o n v i s c o s i t y .

SOURCE: BF G o o d r i c h C o . :

Formula PO040

Sun Care Products

541

Sun Block Lotion (Formula 92-0511) % Bv W e i n h t P a r t A: D . I.Water G l y c e r in Veegum F R h o d i g e l E2

70.40 4.65

1.50 0.15

P a r t 8: M i r a s i 1 DM300 C e t y l A l c o h o l NF D e r m a l c a r e GMS/SE Isopropyl Myristate

2.95 3.10 3.00 3.25

P a r t C: O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA S y n t a s e 62

3.00

P a r t D: Fragrance,

Dye(s),

7.00

Preservative

Q.S.

Blending Procedure Step 1 ( P a r t A ) : Charge w a t e r i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l and add g l y c e r i n w i t h m i x i n g . P r e b l e n d Veegum F and R h o d i g e l E Z and, w i t h good a g i t a t i o n , slowly s i f t t h i s blend i n t o the water/glycerin solution. M i x u n t i l smooth w i t h no p a r t i c l e s a p p a r e n t , t h e n b e g i n h e a t i n g t o 70C. Step 2 ( P a r t B): Charge P a r t B components i n t o a v e s s e l and h e a t w i t h g e n t l e m i x i n g t o 70-75C, b e i n g s u r e a l l components a r e m e l t e d . Step 3: When b o t h p a r t s a r e a t 70C, add P a r t B t o P a r t A , w i t h good m i x i n g , and m i x f i f t e e n m i n u t e s a t 70C. A f t e r e m u l s i o n i s homogeneous, b e g i n c o o l i n g w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Step 4 ( P a r t C ) : Premix t h e t w o components o f P a r t C, h e a t i n g v e r y g e n t l y i f necessary, t o o b t a i n a c l e a r s o l u t i o n . Step 5: When p r o d u c t r e a c h e s 55C, add P a r t C and c o n t i n u e t o c o o l . w i t h a g i t a t io n . S t e p 6: A t 40C, add r e m a i n d e r o f components and c o o l , w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o 25C. Typical Formulation Properties Appearance a t 25C L t , ye1 1ow/bei ge 1o t on PH (10%) 7.3 14,000 c p s V i s c o s i t y a t 25C (RVT # 5 @ 20 rpm) CTFA I d e n t i f ic a t i o n Water, g l y c e r i n , i s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e , c e t y l a l c o h o l , g l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e SE, d i m e t h i c o n e , magnesium aluminum s i l i c a t e , x a n t h a n gum. A c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s : Padimate 0, Oxybenzone SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s : Formula 92-0511

542

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Suncare Product with Titanium Dioxide % by W e i u h t Inaredients: A . Crodamol PMP 2.00 Crodarnol W 3.00 Fluilan 2.00 C r o d a c o l S-95 0.25 C r i l l 3 0.75 2.50 Crodarom Nuto 0 Crodarom R h a t a n i a 0 2.50 B. Deionized water 72.55 Carbomer 2984 0.20 A c r y l a t e s / C l O - 3 0 A l k y l A c e t a t e C r o s s Polymer 0.20 C r o d e s t a F-160 1 .50 G1y c e r i n 5.00 Na2EDTA 0.05 C . AMP-95 0.25 Water ( a n d ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 6.25 D . P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben 1 .oo D i s s o l v e t h e Na2EDTA o f p a r t 8 i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . D i s p e r s e Carbomer 2984 and Pemulen TR-1 i n t o t h e w a t e r o f P a r t B. D i s p e r s e C r o d e s t a F-160 i n g l y c e r i n , t h e n add t o t h e Carbomer/Pemulen d i s p e r s i o n w i t h good m i x i n g , H e a t P a r t B t o 75-8OC. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h good m i x i n g and h e a t t o 75-8OC. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h good m i x i n g . N e u t r a l i z e w i t h t h e AMP-95 o f P a r t C and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . S l o w l y add T i o v e i l A l l w i t h c o n t i n u i n g s t i r r i n g . Cool t o 40C and add P a r t D . Cool t o d e s i r e d f i l l t e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0321 s u g g e s t e d b y Croda Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof Sunscreen T h i s smooth l o t i o n c o n t a i n s no " c h e m i c a l " a b s o r b e r s and d e l i v e r s u n i f o r m , n o n - c h a l k y p r o t e c t i o n . Pemulen TR-1 e n s u r e s h i g h s t a b i l i t y and a l l o w s easy s p r e a d i n g o f t h e l o t i o n . SPF=12. Inaredients: % bv W e i s h t A. Deionized water 67.80 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 5.00 0.10 Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e AMP-95 0.25 D i s o d i um EDTA 0.05 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( a n d ) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben 0.30 8 . C12-15 A l c o h o l s Benzoate 3.00 Butyl Stearate 3.00 Myri sty1 Myri s t a t e 4.00 0.10 S o r b i t a n 01 e a t e Pemulen TR-1 0.20 C a r b o p o l 2984 0.20 C. O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (and) Titanium Dioxide 15.00 1.00 Polyglyceryl-10 Decaoleate 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e f o r m u l a t i o n , Heat t o 50C. 2 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , combine P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat t o 50C. 3 . U s i n g r a p i d a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x t o f o r m a smooth, v i s c o u s e m u l s i o n . 4 . U s i n g moderate a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add P a r t C t o t h e e m u l s i o n S l o w l y c o o l l o t i o n u s i n g c o n t i n u e d moderate a g i t a t i o n . SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: F o r m u l a PF-0323 f r o m B . F . G o o d r i c h

Sun Care Products

543

Sun Protection Gel, Approx. SPF8

An e f f e c t i v e sun p r o t e c t i o n g e l e s p e c i a l l y f o r s e n s i t i v e and a1 1 e r g i c s k i n . Insredients: Q/~ b v W e i g h t P a r t A: Water 60.60 Part 8: Carbomer 980 ( C a r b o p o l 9 8 0 ) 1.20 P a r t C: E t h a n o l , 98% d e n a t u r e d 5.00 3.00 Benzophenone-4 ( U v i n u l MS 4 0 ) P a r t D: 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonic a c i d ( E u so l e x 232) 3.00 T r i s ( h y d r o x y m e t h y 1 ) a m i n o m e t h a n e ( T r i s Amino) 4.00 Water 20.00 0.30 T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA ( T r i l o n B l i q u i d ) I m i d a z o l i d i n y l u r e a (and) t r i e t h y l e n e g l y c o l (and) methylparaben (and) propylparaben (and) dehydroa c e t i c a c i d (Neo-Dragoco L i q u i d ) 0.40 Aloe vera gel concentrate, 10/1 0.50 d-Panthenol 0.50 Part E: Fragrance 0.20 Bisabolol (Dragosantol ) 0.10 Emulsi f i e r 1.20 Procedure: D i s s o l v e B i n A u s i n g an u l t r a - t u r r a x s t i r r e r . Add C . B l e n d D and E ; add t o ABC. The p H - v a l u e i s 6 . 8 . The pH s h o u l d n o t b e o v e r 7 o r p r o d u c t c o u l d have a s t r o n g y e l l o w c o l o r . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0271E s u g g e s t e d b y Dragoco Waterproof Aerosol-Sunscreen (SPF10) Ingredients: % b y Weiaht SD A l c o h o l 40 43.65 AMP-95 0.35 Dermacryl 2,oo Dei on1 zed w a t e r 9.00 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 7.50 Menthyl A n t h r a n i l a t e 4.00 Cyclomethicone 3.00 0.50 Tocopheryl Acetate Dimethyl Ether 30.00 Procedure: Combine SD a l c o h o l 40 w i t h AMP-95. W i t h good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n D e r m a c r y l - 7 9 . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e . Add r e s t e x c e p t D i met hyl e t h e r . Con t inue m i x i n g u n t i l c o m p le t e . F i l t e r , f i l l and charge w i t h dimethyl e t h e r . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0318 s u g g e s t e d b y N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical

SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

544

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Containing Emollient Cream D e i o n i z e d Water P e c o s i 1 WDS-200 ( D i m e t h i cone Copol yo1 P h o s p h a t e ) Carbomer 934 (290 A q . ) P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

37.00% 3.00 25.00 5.00

O c t y l Methoxycinnamate Pelemol GS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) Meadowfoam Seed O i l Pelemol 2022 ( O c t y l d o d e c y l B e h e n a t e ) Macadamia N u t O i l Cetearyl Alcohol Pelemol BB ( B e h e n y l B e h e n a t e )

7 50 2.00 4.00 10.00 2.00 2.00 0.50

P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea ( a n d ) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben

1 .oo I

1 .oo

Procedure: Heat phase _A t o 70-75C. Heat phase B t o 70-75C. A g i t a t e b o t h phase A and B u n t i l u n i f o r m . Under h o m o g e n i z a t i o n add phase t o phase A. When u n i f o r m , change t o p r o p . a g i t a t i o n and c o o l t o 45C. Add phase C t o @, and c o n t i n u e p r o p . a g i t a t i o n t o 35C. F o r m u l a 14-1 09-A Sunscreen Lotion D e i o n i z e d Water P e c o s i 1 WDS-100 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l P h o s p h a t e ) Carbomer 934 ( 2 % A q . ) P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l T r i e t h a n o l a m i ne (99%)

3 7 . 30% 3.00 25.00 5.00 0 70

O c t y l Methoxycinnamate Pelemol GS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) Meadowfoam Seed O i l Pelemol ISL ( I s o s t e a r y l L a c t a t e ) Macademia N u t O i l Cetearyl Alcohol Pel emol BB ( B e h e n y l B e h e n a t e )

7.50 2.00 4.00 10.00 2.00 2.00 0 50

P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( a n d ) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben

I

I

1

.oo

Procedure: I . Heat phase A t o 70-75C. 2 . Heat phase t o 70-75C. 3 . A f t e r b o t h phases a r e u n i f o r m , homogenize phase i n t o phase 4 . 4 . S w i t c h t o sweep a g i t a t i o n and c o o l t o 45C. 5 . Add phase C t o A.W, and c o n t i n u e sweep a g i t a t i o n t o 35C. F o r m u l a 14-1 07-A SOURCE: P h o e n i x C h e m i c a l , I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Sun Care Products

545

Sunscreen Cream 3

Approximate S.P.F. 4 6

8

Ingredient: %w/w 1 C u t i n a MD 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 2 S i p o l 16-18 C50 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 3 E u m u l g i n 62 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 4 Eutanol G 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 5 C e t i o l SN 7.0 7.0 7.0 7.0 6 C e t i o l SB45 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 7 E u s o l e x 6300 0.75 0.37 0.75 8 E u s o l e x 232 0.75 0.37 0.75 9 Sodium H y d r o x i d e 0.208 0.10 0.208 10 H y g r o p l e x HHG CLR 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 1 1 P r e s e r v a t iv e q.s. 12 Water t o 100.0 These f o r m u l a t i o n s g i v e n o n - g r e a s y , s o f t c o n s i s t e n c y , m o i s t u r i s i n g O/W creams w i t h e f f e c t i v e UV P r o t e c t i o n . The f i r s t seven components a r e h e a t e d t o g e t h e r t o 85C. Component n i n e i s added t o t h e w a t e r and t h i s m i x t u r e i s a l s o h e a t e d t o 85C a t w h i c h p o i n t component e i g h t i s s t i r r e d i n and n e u t r a l i z e d . The o i l phase i s t h e n m i x e d i n t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . Component t e n can b e i n c o r p o r a t e d w h i l s t t h e t e m p e r a t u r e i s s t i l l h i g h . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. F o r m u l a TS 269

-

-

After-Sun Lotion Ingredient: %w/w 1 C u t i n a MD 3 .5 ~. 2 S t e n o l 16-65 1.5 3 C e t i o l MM 4.0 4 Eumulgin 82 1.5 5 Eutanol G 5.0 6 M y r i t o l 318 5.0 0.1 7 I r g a s a n DP300 8 Z i n c Carbonate-Basic 5.0 9 Nutrilan L 10.0 10 R e p a i r Complex CLR 3.0 11 P r e s e r v a t i v e 9.s. 1 2 Water t o 100.0 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a p a l e brown, h i g h v i s c o s i t y , medium w e i g h t O/W l o t i o n w h i c h has a s o o t h i n g , a s t r i n g e n t e f f e c t on skin. The f i r s t seven components a r e h e a t e d t o g e t h e r t o 85C. Component e i g h t i s t h e n d i s p e r s e d i n t h e h o t m o l t e n o i l . The w a t e r i s a l s o h e a t e d t o 85C. The o i l p h a s e i s t h e n m i x e d i n t o t h e w a t e r phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C a t w h i c h p o i n t t h e remai n i ng i n g r e d i e n t s c a n b e i n c o r p o r a t e d . F o r m u l a TS 285

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: S k i n Care P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

546

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sun Screen Cream O/W

Qm

I C u t i n a MD

E u m u l g i n B1 Eutanol G M y r i t o l 318 C a r r o t o i l CLR P a r s o l MCX I 1 E u s o l e x 161, w a t e r - s o l u b l e Water F o r m u l a No. Ell-01

16.0 3.0 10.0 5.0 3.0 2.0 2.0 59.0

Sun Screen Cream W/O

I

Dehymuls K Cetiol V P a r s o l MCX I 1 Water F o r m u l a No. Ell-02

30.0 15.0 3.0 52.0 Sun Screen Cream W/O

46w/w I Dehymuls F

8.0

Novata AB Cetiol V Vegetable o i 1 Vasel i n e , w h i t e P a r s o l MCX I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water Formula No. € 1 1 - 0 3

4.0 8.0 8.0 10.0

3.0 3.0 0.3

55.7

Sun Screen Cream W/O

I

Dehymuls F Novata A B Cetiol V Vegetable o i 1 Vasel i n e , w h i t e P a r a f f i n o i l , low viscous P a r s o l MCX I 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% D A B 9 Magnesium s u l f a t e - 7 - h y d r a t e Water Formula No. E 11-04

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

8.0 4.0 5.0 5.0 10.0 6.0 3.0 3.0

0.3 55.7

Sun Care Products

547

Sun Screen Emulsion O/W, L i q u i d

I

Cutina MD Lanette 0 Eumulgin 61 Eumulgin 62 Rilanit GMO Eutanol G Paraffin oil, high viscous Cetiol 5 6 0 0 Parsol 1789 Parsol MCX

I 1 Henkel Glycerin 86% DAB 9

Water formula N o . € 2 1 - 0 2

5.0

2.0 1.5 1.5 0.5 8.0

4.0 6.0 2.0

4.0 5.0 60.5

Sun Screen Emulsion O/W, Liquid

SWLW I

Cutina CBS Eumulgin B1 Eumulgin B2 Rilanit GMO Eutanol G Paraffin oil, high viscous Cetiol 5 6 0 0 Parsol 1789 Parsol MCX I 1 Henkel Glycerin 86% DAB 9 Water Formula N o . E21-03

9.0 1.5

1.5 0.5 8.0

4.0 6.0 2.0 4.0 5.0 58.5

Sun Screen Emulsion O/W, Liquid

Cutina MD Lanette 0 Eumulgin 62 Cutina E24 Rilanit GMO Eutanol G Paraffin oil, high viscous Cet i 01 5 6 0 0 Parsol 1769 Parsol MCX Henkel Glycerin 86% DAB 9 Water Formula No . E21-04 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

Hi! 5.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 0.5 8.0

4.0 6.0 2.0

4.0 5.0

59.5

548

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sun Screen Emulsion O/W with Repellent, Liquid

%w/w I

C u t i n a MO S i e g e r t S t e a r i n L2 SM E u m u l g i n 81 Cetiol V M y r i t o l 318 P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous Repel l e n t 790

3.0 2.0 3.0 10.0

I 1 E u s o l e x 161, w a t e r - s o l u b l e Triethanolamine Veegum s o l u t i o n 4% Water

2.0 0.2 40.0 21 . 8

4.0

4.0 10.0

Formula No. E23-01 Sun Screen Oil

%w/w Eutanol G M y r i t o l 318 C a r r o t o i l CLR Paraffin o i l , high viscous Parso MCX Formu a E31-01

50.0 26.0 2.0 20.0 2.0

Sun Screen Oil

e

Cet io LC M y r i t o l 318 Eutanol G P a r s o l MCX F o r m u l a No. E31-02

20.0 40.0 38.0

2.0

Sun Screen Oil with Repellent

%w/w Eutanol G M y r i t o l 318 P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous P a r s o l MCX Repel 1e n t 790 E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% F o r m u l a No. E31-03

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

30.0 27.0 20.0 3.0 10.0 10.0

Sun Care Products

549

Sunscreen Lotion w/UV-Titan M212 Inaredients: U V - T i t a n P r e m i x 7-95-A: 40.00 U V - T i t a n M212 Pecosi 1 WDS-I 0 0 60.00 Premix s h o u l d b e m i x e d u s i n g a h i g h s h e a r m i x e r / i m p e l l e r , i . e . , S i l v e r s o n f o r 5 m i n u t e s a t 4000 rpm. Phase A : D . I . Water 64.25 Glucam E-20 2.50 G1 ucamate SSE-20 0.75 U V - T i t a n Premix 12.50 Phase 0 : OH1 an 3.00 G l u c a t e SS 4.00 R i tachol 5.00 P e l o x P3M 5.00 W i t c o n o l APM 3.00 Phase C : Germaben I 1 1.oo Fragrance 0.25 Procedure: Heat Phase A t o 72C. H e a t Phase B t o 75C, add B t o A , m i x w e l l , pass t h r o u g h c o l l o i d m i l l f o r 5 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l comp l e t e l y r e c i r c u l a t e d , b e g i n c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and check sample f o r d i s p e r s i o n . A d j u s t p H t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 0 w i t h Phosp h o r i c A c i d 10% S o l ' n . Sunscreen Lotion w/UV-Titan M262 Ingredients: %Qty U V - T i t a n 7-95-8: U V - T i t a n M262 40.00 Pecosi 1 PS-100 60.00 Premix s h o u l d be m i xed u s i n g a h i g h shear m i x e r / i mpel 1e r , i . e . , S i l v e r s o n f o r 5 m i n u t e s a t 4000 r p m . Phase A : D . I . Water 64.25 2.50 Glucam E-20 Glucamate SSE-20 0.75 Phase B : OH1 an 3.00 4.00 G l u c a t e SS R itachol 5.00 P e l o x P3M 5.00 W i t c o n o l APM 3.00 UV-Ti t a n Premix 12.50 Phase C: Germaben I 1 1.00 Fragrance 0.25 Procedure: Heat Phase A t o 72C. Heat Phase B t o 75C, add 0 t o A, m i x w e l l , pass t h r o u g h c o l l o i d m i l l f o r 5 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y r e c i r c u l a t e d , b e g i n c o o l i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and check sample f o r d i s p e r s i o n . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 t o 6 . 0 w i t h P h o s p h o r i c A c i d 10% S o l ' n . SOURCE: Phoenix C h e m i c a l , I n c . / P r e s p e r s e , I n c n : 7 - 9 7 - A / 7 - 9 7 - 0

m

I

550

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sun Screen Stick with Total Light Protection (Sun Blocker) C u t i n a LM C e t i o l 3600 Eutanol G P a r s o l 1789 P a r s o l MCX Titanium dioxide T a l cum Skin c o l o r e d pigments F o r m u l a N o . E41-03

Parts 70.0 7.0 8.0

1.o 5.0 6.0 7.0 2.0

Lipstick with Light Protection C u t i n a LM C e t i o l 868 C e t i o l J600 E u s o l e x 8021 F o r m u l a No. E41-04

Parts 81.0 10.0 5.0

4.0

Lipstick with Light Protection C u t i n a LM C e t i o l 868 C e t i o l 5600 E u s o l e x 8021 Formula No. E41-05

Parts 80.0 8.0 4.0 8.0

Sun Screen Spray Aerosol-Packed

%w/w Eutanol G Vegetable o i 1 P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous P a r s o l MCX F i l l i n g : 50 p a r t s s o l u t i o n 50 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t 12/114 ( 4 0 : 6 0 ) F o r m u l a No. E71-01

55.0

20.0 23.0 2.0

Sun Screen Spray Low-Fat Aerosol-Packed

36w/w Eutanol G P a r s o l MCX Isopropyl alcohol F i l l i n g : 50 p a r t s s o l u t i o n 50 p a r t s p r o p e l l a n t 12/114 ( 4 0 : 6 0 ) Formula N o . E71-03

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

25.0 2.0 73.0

Sun Care Products

551

Sun Shield Day Cream A l i g h t , p l e a s a n t cream. A p p l i e s e a s i l y and i s q u i c k l y absorbed i n t o t h e s k i n . O f f e r s medium s u n - p r o t e c t i o n w h i l e k e e p i n g t h e s k i n s o f t and m o i s t u r i z e d . I d e a l as a s k i n condi t i o n e r f o r men who e n j o y o u t - o f - d o o r s a c t i v i t i e s .

Wt.% M i n k O i l (Emulan, L i g h t F r a c t i o n ) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG 100 S t e a r a t e ( I C I , A r l a c e l 165) C e t y l R i c i n o l e a t e (Cas Chem, N a t u r e Chem C R ) S t e a r i c A c i d TP Cetyl Alcohol O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA (Van Dyk, E s c a l o l 507) P r o p y l Paraben B . M e t h y l Paraben T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% PEG-8 (UCC, Carbowax 4 0 0 ) Q u a t e r n i u m 26 (Van Dyk, C e r a p h y l 6 5 ) Water

5.00

A.

4.00 1.oo 2.00 0.50 3.00 0.15 0.20 0.50 5.00 1.oo 77.65

Procedure: Add 75C Phase B t o 75C Phase A v i a p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 4 5 C b e f o r e a d d i n g Phase C . PABA Free Sunscreen Lotion A l o w i r r i t a t i o n , n o n - g r e a s y l o t i o n f o r s e n s i t i v e s k i n s . Has e f f e c t i v e sun p r o t e c t i o n (SPF a b o u t IO) and t h u s p r o t e c t s a g a i n s t p h o t o - a g i n g . May b e used as an under make-up m o i s t u r i z e r . Water Carbomer 941 ( G o o d r i c h , Carbopol 941) P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l USP D i s o d i u m Cocamido MIPA S u l f o s u c c i n a t e (Wi t c o , Emcol 41 61 L ) B . C y c l o m e t h i c o n e (Dow C o r n i n g 345 F l u i d ) M i n k O i l (Emulan, L i g h t F r a c t i o n ) O c t y l Methoxycinnamate (Van Dyk, E s c a l o l 557) M e n t h y l A n t h r a n i l a t e ( F e l t o n , Sunarome UVA) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 ( A m e r c h o l , Promulgen D) P h e n y l t r i m e t h i c o n e (Dow C o r n i n g , 556 F l u i d ) C . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% D . Germaben I1 ( S u t t o n ) Perfume

A.

W% .t 65.8 0.2 2.0 0.5 10.0 5.0 7.6 3.5 3.0 1.o 0.2 1.o 0.2

Procedure: Add 75C Phase B t o 75C Phase A, t h e n add Phase C and s t i r c o o l t o 45C b e f o r e a d d i n g Phase D i n g r e d i e n t s .

SOURCE: Emulan,

Inc.:

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

552

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sun Tan Cream Creamy s o f t . E a s i l y s p r e a d , q u i c k l y a b s o r b e d and l e a v e s a s i l k y s o f t f e e l i n g on t h e s k i n . Material/CTFA-Index: A : B e l s i l DM 3 5 0 / D i m e t h i c o n e Isopropyl Myri s t a t e Stearyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid

2.00% 9.00 9.50 0.50 4.00

P a r s o l MCX/Octyl M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e B:

Triethanolamine C a r b o p o l 934 (14bige L s g . ) / C a r b o m e r 934 Water P r e s e r v a t i v e s , pigments, fragrances

Heat A and B each t o 70C, whilst s t i r r i n g quickly.

add P a r s o l MCX t o A .

1 .50 1.20 5.00 67.30 q.s.

Mix B i n t o A

T e n m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 130 AH Sun Tan Cream Creamy soft. Material/CTFA-Index: A : B e l s i l DM 3 5 0 / D i m e t h i c o n e Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid P a r s o l MCX/Octyl

3.00% 2.00 4.00

Methoxycinnamate

B: G l y c e r i n e Triethanolamine Wasser d e s t . / W a t e r Preservatives, pigments,

fragrances

2.00 2.00 0.90 86.10 q.s.

Heat A and B t o 80C, m i x A i n t o B, c o o l w h i l s t s t i r r i n g , a t a p p r o x . 45C add P a r s o l M C X , s t i r c o l d . F o r m u l a t i o n 133 A H SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

Sun Care Products

553

Sun Tan Cream

Firm cream. Material/CTFA-Index: A : Crodawax GP 2 0 0 / S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) PEG-Stearate Lamecreme KSM/Glyceryl S t e a r a t e s e B e l s i l DM 3 5 / D i m e t h i c o n e E u s o l e x 6300 8 : Water Preservatives, pigments, fragrances M e l t A a t 70C, h e a t t h e w a t e r t o 70C. Work A i n t o B . F o r m u l a t i o n 199 AH

5.00% 6.00 5.00 3.00 81 . O O 9,s.

Sun Tan Cream

Creamy soft. Material/CTFA-Index: 3.00% A: B e l s i l DM lOO/Dimethicone 2.00 Cetyl Alcohol 4.00 Stearic Acid 3.00 E u s o l e x 6300 2.00 B: G l y c e r i n e 0.90 T r i e t h a n o l ami n e 85.10 Water q.s. P r e s e r v a t i v e s , p i gments, f r a g r a n c e s Heat A and B each t o 80C. Work B i n t o A w h i l s t s t i r r i n g q u i c k l y , cool w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . Temperature s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 198 AH Sun Tan Cream

Creamy soft. M a t e r ia1 /CTFA-I ndex : A : B e l s i l DM 35O/Dimethicone 3.00% Cetyl Alcohol 2.00 Stearic Acid 4.00 B: P a r s o l MCX/Octyl Methoxycinnamate 2.00 B e l s i l BNP/Boron N i t r i d e 1 .oo C: G l y c e r i n e 2.00 Triethanolamine 0.90 Wasser d e s t . / W a t e r 85.10 P r e s e r v a t i v e s , fragrances, perfumes q.s. Heat A and C t o 80C, s t i r A i n t o C , c o o l w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . Add B a t a p p r o x . 45C, s t i r c o l d . Temperature s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks. Formul a t i on 1 3 3 / 2 AH SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

554

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sun Tan Lotion W/O Material/CTFA-Index: A : H o s t a c e r i n WO/Polyglyceryl-2-Sesquiiostearate (and) Beeswax ( a n d ) M i n e r a l Oi 1 ( a n d ) Magnesi um S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) AlumTnum S t e a r a t e B e l s i l CM 0 4 0 / C y c l o m e t h i c o n e B e l s i l PDM 20/Phenyl D i m e t h i c o n e B e l s i l DM 35O/Dimethicone Isopropyl Myristate

12.00% 25.00 6.00 3.00 3.50

B : Water

47.50

C:

3.00 9,s.

P a r s o l MCX/Octyl M e t h o x y c i nnamate Preservatives, pigments, fragrances

M i x A , h e a t t h e w a t e r t o 60C and s t i r i n t o A . somewhat, add P a r s o l M C X .

Leave t o c o o l

F o r m u l a t i o n 260 A H Sun Tan Lotion M a t e r 1 a1ICTFA- I ndex : A : T e g i n a c i d / G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) Ce t e a r e t h - 2 0 Isopropyl Myri s t a t e B e l s i l DM 3 5 0 / D i m e t h i c o n e M i n e r a l O i 1 , 1ow v i s c o s i t y Lanette O/Cetearyl Alcohol B e l s i 1 CM 1 0 0 0 / C y c o l m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) D i m e t h i c o n o l P a r s o l MCX/Octyl M e t h o x y c i nnamate

6 00% 1.oo 1 .oo 4.00 1.oo 10.00 3.00

B : Water

71 . 5 0 1 .50

Glycerine C: B e l s i l BNP/Boron N i t r i d e Preservatives, fragrances,

.

1 pigments

Heat A and B each t o 65-70C,

s t i r B i n t o A,

Temperature s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 10 weeks F o r m u l a t i o n 913 A H

SOURCE: Wacker Silicone: S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s

.oo 9,s.

s t i r C i n t o AB.

Sun Care Products

555

Suntan Lotion Highly moisturizing skin care that affords natural skin p r o t e c t i o n f r o m Shebu, as w e l l as UV s u n s c r e e n i n g w i t h ODP Ingredients: 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 934 (Carbomer 9 3 4 )

%w/w 77.40 0.20

3. Glycerine 4 . Xanthan Gum

4.00 0.10

5. S u p e r s a t ( H y d r o g e n a t e d L a n o l i n )

0.50 2.00 1 .oo 7.00 2.00

6. 7. 8. 9.

Shebu R e f i n e d (Shea B u t t e r ) R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) Mineral O i l P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l Lactyl ate) 10.Rita Stearic Acid 11 . O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA 1 2 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (50% S o l n . ) 13. F r a g r a n c e 14,Preservative

2.00 2.00 1.80 q.s. q.s.

F u n c t ion

_-__

S t a b i 1i z e r , Rheology Emol 1 ie n t S t a b i 1 iz e r , Thickener F i l m Former Emol 1 ie n t Emulsifier Emol 1 ie n t Emul s i f ie r , Humectant Emul s i f ie r Sunscreen Neutralizer Odor Preservative

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e 2 i n t o 1 , h y d r a t e 15 m i n u t e s . Add 4 t o 3 and d i s p e r s e i n t o 1 , 2 . Heat t o 165F. S e p a r a t e l y combine 5-11, h e a t t o 165F, m i x w e l l and combine b o t h p h a s e s . N e u t r a l i z e w i t h TEA ( 1 2 ) . Cool w i t h m i x i n g t o 120F and add 13 & 1 4 . Cool t o QOF. Package. R e f . No. 118-70 USFDA Standard SPF 4.11 Sunscreen Lotion Reference: Federal Register 21 CFR 352 et.al. Used as t h e s t a n d a r d t o w h i c h SPF d e t e r m i n a t i o n s t u d i e s may be referenced. Inaredi ents: 1 . L a n o l i n Ex Deo. USP 2. Homomenthyl S a l ic y 1 a t e 3 . W h i t e P e t r o l a t u m USP 4. S t e a r i c Acid 5 . Propylparaben 6. Methylparaben 7. Na2 EDTA 8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 9 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 13 99% 10.Propylene Glycol R e f . No. 118-74

SOURCE:

R.I.T.A.

Corp.:

Sun Care Manual

%w/w 5.00 8.00 2.50 4.00 0.05 0.10 0.05 74.30 1.oo 5.00

R . I . T . A . Products ( L a n o l i n USP) (Rita Stearic Acid)

556

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Suntan Lotion with UV Protection E x c e l l e n t f e e l and d e l i v e r y o f UV p r o t e c t i o n w i t h t h i s A c r i t a m e r / s t e a r a t e e m u l s i o n . Reduced i r r i t a n c y . Inqredients: %w/w Function 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 73.10 2. A c r i t a m e r 941 (Carbomer 941) 0.10 S t a b i 1 iz e r , Rheology 3 . Propylene Glycol 3.00 Emollient 4 . R i t a IPM ( I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ) 5.00 Emollient 5 . Ritaderm (R.I.T.A. Blend) 5.00 S t a b i 1 iz e r , Emoll i e n t 6. Ritacetyl (Acetylated Lanolin) 2.50 F i l m Former 7. R i t a l a n ( L a n o l i n O i l ) 1-00 E m o l l ie n t 8 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0.70 Thickener, Opaci f ie r 9 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e ) 1 .50 Emulsifier 10.Rita Stearic A c i d 2.00 Emulsifier 11 . M i n e r a l O i 1 2.00 Emol 1 ie n t 1 2 . 0 c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA 2.50 Sunscreen 1 3 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (50% S o l n . ) 1 -60 N e u t r a l iz e r 14. F r a g r a n c e q.s. Odor q.s. Preservative 15. P r e s e r v a t i v e Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e 2 i n t o 1 , h y d r a t e 15 m i n u t e s . Add 3 , h e a t t o 165F. S e p a r a t e l y combine 4-13 and h e a t t o 165F, m i x w e l l . Combine phases a t 165F, c o o l w i t h m i x i n g t o 120F. Add 14 and 15, c o o l t o 9OF. Package. R e f . No. 118-79

----

Coppertone Type Self Tanner Efficaceous s e l f t a n n i n g emulsion w i t h e x c e l l e n t r u b out and smooth f e e l . Innredients: %w/w Function 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 81.00 ---2 . R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e Vera G e l ) 1.OO Conditioner 3 . R i t a p r o 300 ( c e t e a r y l A l c o h o l and Ceteareth-20) 10.00 Emulsifier 4 . R i t a l a n C ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e and Lanolin O i l ) 2.00 Emol 1 ie n t 5. Dimethicone 0.75 Lubricant 6 . D i h y d r o x y Acetone 5.00 T a n n i n g Agent 7 . Germaben I 1 0.25 Preservative 8 . P a t l a c LA ( L a c t i c A c i d 88%) q.s. pH A d j u s t m e n t Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s s o l v e 2 i n t o 1, h e a t t o 165F. S e p a r a t e l y combine 3,4 and 5 and h e a t t o l 6 5 F . Combine phases w i t h m i x i n g , c o o l t o 125F and a d j u s t pH w i t h 8 t o 5 . 0 ( + - 0 . 5 ) . Add 6 and p r e s e r v e . Cool t o package. R e f . No. 118-134

SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:

Sun C a r e Manual

Sun Care Products

557

Tanning Oil with Shebu H i g h l y e m o l l i e n t o i l d e l i v e r s m i n i m a l sun D r o t e c t i o n . A l l o w s moi s t u r i z a t i on and p e r m i t s t a n n i n g Inqredients: 1 . R i t a l a n C ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e and Lanolin O i l ) 2. Mineral O i l 3 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l Lactylate) 4. R i t a c e t y l (Acetylated L a n o l i n ) 5. Shebu R e f i n e d (Shea B u t t e r ) 6 . R i t a p h e n o n e - 3 (Benzophenone-3) 7. P r e s e r v a t i v e 8 . Anti-Oxidant 9 . Fragrance

%w/w 7.00 84.85

2.00 1.75 2.00 2.00 0.10 q.s. 0.30

Function Em01 1 ie n t Base Emoll ie n t Emol 1 ie n t E m o l l ie n t Emollient Sunscreen Preservative A n t i -0xi dant Odor

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and g e n t l y warm w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l homogeneous ( 1 5 0 F ) . Cool t o 120F. Add f r a g r a n c e , c o o l and package. R e f . No. 118-8 Moisturizing Suntan Oil Coppertone Type C o p p e r t o n e t y p e , h i g h m o i s t u r i z a t i o n a l l o w s deep t a n n i n g w i t h minimal sunscreen. Inaredients: 1. Mineral O i l 2 . L a n o l i n USP 3 . Cocobutter 4 . Coconut O i l 5. Simchin Refined (Jojoba O i l ) 6 . Sweet Almond O i l 7. Benzoic Acid 8. Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) 9 . R i t a p h e n o n e 3 (Benzophenone-3) 10.BHT 1l.Fragrance 12.Dye

%w/w 92.41 1.oo

1

.oo

1

.oo

1.oo 1.oo 1.oo 0.09 1.oo 0.50 q.s. 9.s.

Function E m o l l ie n t Emol 1 ie n t E m o l l ie n t Emol 1 ie n t Emol 1 ie n t Emol 1 ie n t Preservative A n t i -0xi dant Sunscreen Anti-Oxidant Odor Color

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s ( 1 - 1 0 ) and warm t o 150F. Cool t o 120F and add F r a g r a n c e and Dye. Cool and package. R e f . No. 118-136

SOURCE: R . I . T . A ,

C o r p . : Sun Care Manual

558

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

TiO2 Oil/Water Sunscreen Lotion I n c r e a s e d e f f i c a c y o f T i 0 2 . U n i q u e e m u l s i f i c a t i o n . H i g h SPF i s estimated. Inaredients: %w/w Function 1 . R i t a IPM ( I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ) 4.00 Emol 1 ie n t 2. Mineral O i l 6.50 Lubricant 2.50 Emol 1 ie n t 3. Simchin (Jojoba O i l - Refined) 4. R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1.OO Thickener 5. Petrolatum 2.00 Lubricant 6 . T i o v e i l TG ( T i 0 2 D i s p e r s e d ) 5.00 Sunscreen 7 . G r i l l o t e n LSE 87K ( S u c r o s e Cocoate) 0.10 Emulsifier 8 . G r i l l o t e n PSE 141G ( S u c r o s e S t e a r a t e ) 6.00 Emulsifier 9. Glycerol 4.00 Emol 1 ie n t 1 0 . N a t u r a l E x t r a c t DP ( T r i m e t h y l G l y c i n e ) 0 . 2 0 Anti-Irritant 1 1 . R i t a p a n DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 0.80 Conditioner 1 2 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 62.90 ---1 3 . T i o v e i l AQ-G ( T i 0 2 D i s p e r s e d ) 5.00 Sunscreen 14. P r e s e r v a t i ve q. s P r e s e r v a t iv e q.s. Odor 15. F r a g r a n c e Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat ( 1 - 6 ) and ( 7 - 1 2 ) s e p a r a t e l y t o 80C. Add ( 1 - 6 ) t o ( 7 - 1 2 ) w i t h m i x i n g . Add 13 w h i l e s t i l l warm ( 8 0 C ) . Cool t o 25C w i t h m i x i n g . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e a t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 35C. R e f . No. 118-128

.

TiO2 Sunscreen Smooth, n o n - w h i t e n i n g l o t i o n u s i n g t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e as an a c t i v e UV s u n s c r e e n . Inaredients: %w/w Function I , D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 64.95 ---2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer 940) 0.30 S t a b i 1 iz e r , Rheology 3. Propylene Glycol 2.00 Emoll ie n t 4. T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 0.10 Chelator 5. Mineral O i l 7.50 Emoll ie n t 5.00 Emoll ie n t 6 . R i t a IPM ( I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ) 7. R i t a Stearic Acid 3.00 Emoll ie n t 8. R i t a c h o l 5000 ( R . I . T . A . B l e n d ) 1.50 Emulsifier 9. Silicone O i l 2.00 Lubricant 1O.TEA ( 5 0 % S o l n . ) 0.75 Neutralizer 1 1 . T i o v e i l AQ ( T i 0 2 D i s p e r s e d ) 12.50 N e u t r a l iz e r 12.Fragrance 0.20 Odor 13. P r e s e r v a t i v e 0.20 Preservative Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e 2 i n t o 1 and h y d r a t e 15 m i n u t e s . Add 3 and 4. H e a t t o 165F. S e p a r a t e l y combine 5 - 1 0 , h e a t t o 165F and m i x w e l l . Combine phases w i t h m i x i n g and add I f . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 120F. Add 12 and 1 3 . Cool and package. R e f . No. 118-118

SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

Corp.:

Sun Care Manual

Sun Care Products

559

Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof Sunscreen (SPF 12*) T h i s smooth l o t i o n c o n t a i n s no " c h e m i c a l " a b s o r b e r s and d e l i v e r s u n i f o r m , n o n - c h a l k y p r o t e c t i o n . Pemulen TR-1 e n s u r e s h i g h s t a b i l i t y and a l l o w s easy s p r e a d i n g o f t h e l o t i o n . Inqredient: P a r t A: D e i o n i z e d Water P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( 1 ) Aminomethyl P r o p a n o l ( 2 ) D i s o d i um EDTA P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l Urea (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben ( 3 ) P a r t B: C12-15 A l c o h o l s Benzoate ( 4 ) Butyl Stearate (5) Myri sty1 Myri s t a t e ( 6 ) S o r b i t a n 01 e a t e Pemulen TR-1 ( 7 ) Carbopol 2984 ( 8 ) Part C: O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (and) T i t a n i u m Dioxide (9) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 1 0 D e c a o l e a t e (IO)

Wei RhtW 67.80 5.00 0.10 0.25 0.05

Function D i 1u e n t Humectant Spreading a i d N e u t r a l iz e r Chel a t i ng Agent

0.30

Preservative

3.00 3.00 4.00 0.10 0.20 0.20

Emol 1 ie n t Emol 1 i e n t Emollient P.S. R e d u c t i o n Emulsifier Thickener

15.00 1.OO

Active D i spersant

* C l i n i c a l t e s t i n g c o n d u c t e d by P r o d u c t S a f e t y Labs (FDA 2 1 CFR P a r t 352, F e d e r a l R e g i s t e r , August 25, 1 9 7 8 ) . (1) (2) (3) (4)

8 e n e c e l MP943R ( A q u a l o n ) AMP-95 (Angus C h e m i c a l ) Germaben 1 1 - E ( S u t t o n ) F i n s o l v TN ( F i n e t e x ) ( 5 ) (Amerchol) ( 6 ) C e r a p h y l 424 (Van Dyk) ( 7 ) A c r y l a t e s / C l O - 3 0 A l k y l A c r y l a t e C r o s s p o l y m e r (BFGoodrich) ( 8 ) Carbomer (BFGoodrich) ( 9 ) T i o v e i l OP ( T i o x i d e C h e m i c a l s ) (10)Capmul 10G-10-0 ( K a r l s h a m n s )

P r e p a r a t i o n Procedure: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e f o r m u l a t i o n . Heat t o 50C 2 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , combine P a r t 8 i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat t o 50C. 3 . U s i n g r a p i d a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x t o f o r m a smooth, v i s c o u s e m u l s i o n . 4 . U s i n g moderate a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add P a r t C t o t h e e m u l s i o n . S l o w l y c o o l l o t i o n u s i n g c o n t i n u e d moderate a g i t a t i o n .

SOURCE:

BFGoodrich

Co,:

F o r m u l a PO030

560

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof Sunscreen With Pemulen TR-1 & Carbopol Ultrez 10 Estimate SPF-18 T h i s smooth l o t i o n c o n t a i n s no " c h e m i c a l " a b s o r b e r s and d e l i v e r s u n i f o r m , n o n - c h a l k y , w a t e r - p r o o f p r o t e c t i o n . Pemulen TR-1 e n s u r e s h i g h s t a b i l i t y and a l l o w s easy s p r e a d i n g o f t h e l o t i on. Ingredients: Deionized water D i s o d i um EDTA Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e AMP-95 Propylene Glycol B. C12-15 A1 coho1 s Benzoate Butyl Stearate Myristy1 Myri s t a t e S o r b i t a n 01 e a t e Pemulen TR-1 C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 10 C . P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( a n d ) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben D . O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (and) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e Polyglyceryl-10 Decaoleate

A.

% b v Weiqht 67.10

0.05 0.10 0.25

5.00 3.00 3.00 4.00 0.10 0.20 0.20 1 .oo 15.00 1.00

Properties: pH: 6.2-6.8 V i s c o s i t y * ( c P s ) : 32,000-38,000 C o l o r , o d o r , appearance: W h i t e , t h i c k , creamy e m u l s i o n * B r o o k f i e l d RVT @ 20rpm, 25C, #6 s p i n d l e Procedure: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e f o r m u l a t i o n . Heat t o 50C. 2 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , combine f i r s t f o u r P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . A f t e r m i x t u r e i s uniform, disperse r e s i n s . Mix u n t i l uniform 3 . U s i n g r a p i d a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x t o f o r m a smooth, v i s c o u s e m u l s i o n . 4 . Combine P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x we1 1 . 5. Add P a r t C t o b a t c h . 6 . U s i n g m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add P a r t D t o t h e emuls i o n . S l o w l y c o o l l o t i o n u s i n g c o n t i n u e d moderate a g i t a t i o n .

SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y : F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0345 s u g g e s t e d b y B . F , G o o d r i c h

Sun Care Products

561

Transparent Sun-Block Cream Ingredient: 1 Monomuls 90-0 18 2 Lameform TGI 3 Cetiol A 4 S i p o l 1618 C50 5 Beeswax 6 Zinc stearate 7 T i o v e i l TG 8 Magnesi um s u l p h a t e 9 Glycerine 10 Preservative 11 Water

%w/w 2.0 4.0 10.0 1.o 3.0 2.0 10.0 1.o 3.0 q.s t o 100.0

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s q u i t e a heavy W/O cream w i t h good e m o l l i e n c e and h i g h U V P r o t e c t i o n (SPF a p p r o x . 1 2 ) . The f i r s t seven components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Components 8 and 9 a r e d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r and t h i s m i x t u r e i s t h e n h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e as t h e o i l phase. The w a t e r phase i s t h e n added t o t h e o i l phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. The p r o d u c t must t h e n b e homogenised u s i n g , f o r example, a T r i p l e R o l l M i l l . Formula TS 475 Transparent Sunblock Cream Inaredient: 1 Dehymuls FCE 2 Lameform TGI 3 S i p o l 16-18 C50 4 Cetiol A 5 Beeswax 6 Zinc Stearate 7 T i o v e i l TG 8 Magnesi um S u l p h a t e 9 Glycerine 10 P r e s e r v a t i v e 11 Water

%w/w 2.0 4.0

I

.o

10.0

3.0 2.0 10.0

1.o

3.0 q.s. t o 100.0

The f i r s t seven components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Components 8 & 9 a r e d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r and t h i s m i x t u r e i s h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e as t h e o i l phase. The w a t e r phase i s t h e n added t o t h e o i l phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. The p r o d u c t s h o u l d t h e n b e homogenised by, f o r example, a T r i p l e R o l l M i l l . Formula TS 488

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: S k i n Care P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

562

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Waterproof Sunscreen (SPF 12) T h i s smooth l o t i o n c o n t a i n s no " c h e m i c a l " a b s o r b e r s and d e l i v e r s u n i f o r m , n o n - c h a l k y p r o t e c t i o n . Pemulen TR-1 e n s u r e s h i g h s t a b i l i t y a n d a l l o w s easy s p r e a d i n g o f t h e l o t i o n . Inqredients: % by W e i q h t Part A: Deionized water 67.80 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 5.00 B e n e c e l MP943PR 0.10 AMP-95 0.25 D i s o d i urn EDTA 0.05 Germaben 1 1 - E 0.30 Part 8: F i n s o l v TN 3.00 C e r a p h y l 424 4.00 Butyl Stearate 3.00 Sorbitan Oleate 0.10 Pemulen TR-1 0.20 Carbopol 2984 0.20 Part C: O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( a n d ) T i t a n i um T i o v e i 1 OP 15.00 0.20 Capmul 10G-10-0 Procedure: Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e f o r m u l a t i o n . Heat t o 50C. I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , combine P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . H e a t t o 50C. U s i n g r a p i d a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x t o f o r m a smooth, v i s c o u s e m u l s i o n . U s i n g m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add P a r t C t o t h e e m u l s i o n . Slowly c o o l l o t i o n u s i n g c o n t i n u e d moderate a g i t a t i o n . SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o r : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y : Formulat i o n PF-0243E s u g g e s t e d by B . F . G o o d r i c h Sun Tan Cream Creamy soft.

Material/CTFA-Index: A : Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid E u s o l e x 4360/Benzophenone-3 Eusolex 8020 B: G l y c e r i n e Triethanolamine Water C: B e l s i l CM lOOO/Cyclomethicone(a.)Dimethiconol P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume, pigments H e a t A and B t o 80C. S t i r B i n t o A . S t i r u n t i l c o o l . T e m p e r a t u r e s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C more t h a n 9 weeks. SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e :

F o r m u l a t i o n 7 4 0 AH

2.00% 4.00 1.50 1 .50 2.00 0.90 78.10 10.00 q.s.

Sun Care Products

563

Waterproof Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15) Inaredient: P a r t A: Dei o n i zed Water Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( 1 ) (1% s o l u t i o n ) Quaternium-15 ( 2 ) D i s o d i um EDTA P a r t 8: O c t y l Methoxy Cinnamate O c t y l S a l icy1 a t e Oxybenzone C12-15 A l c o h o l s Benzoate Pemulen T R - I ( 4 ) Carbopol 954 ( 5 ) Methylparaben Propylparaben

Weiaht% 72.75 10.00 0.15 0.05 7.00

3.00 2.00 4.00 0.25

0.20 0.15 0.05

Part C: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

0.40

Procedure: 1 ) Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. 2 ) Combine f i r s t f o u r p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . M i x u n t i l oxybenzone has d i s s o l v e d . Warming w i l l h a s t e n dissolution. 3) D i s p e r s e l a s t f o u r P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t B v e s s e l . M i x t o b r e a k - u p lumps. 4) W i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x f o r 20-40 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l a smooth, n o n - g r a i n y d i s p e r s i o n i s a p p a r e n t . Add P a r t C ( t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e ) and m i x v i g o r o u s l y u n t i l a smooth, l u s t r o u s p r o d u c t i s o b t a i n e d . ( 1 ) M e t h o c e l E4M (Dow)

(2) D o w i c i l 200 (Dow) ( 3 ) F i n s o l v TN ( F i n e t e x ) ( 4 ) Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer (BFGoodrich) ( 5 ) Carbomer (BFGoodrich)

SOURCE:

BF

G o o d r i c h Co. : Formula

PO008

564

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Waterproof Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15) Innredient: P a r t A: Dei o n i zed Water Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( 1 ) ( 1 ,090 S o l u t i o n ) Quaternium-15 ( 2 ) D i s o d i um EDTA P a r t B: O c t y l Methoxy Cinnamate O c t y l Sal icy1 a t e Oxybenzone C12-CI5 A l c o h o l s Benzoate ( 3 ) Pemulen T R - 1 ( 4 ) Carbopol 2984 ( 5 ) M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben P a r t C: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5)

Wei a h t % 72.75 10.00 0.15 0.05 7.00 3.00 2.00 4.00 0.25 0.20

0.15 0.05 0.40

Function D i 1u e n t Aqueous Smoothing Aid Preservative C h e l a t i n g Agent UVB A b s o r b e r UVB A b s o r b e r UVA Absorber Emol 1 i e n t / S o l vent Emu1 s i f ie r Thickener P r e s e r v a t iv e Preservative Neutralizing Agent

M e t h o c e l E4M ( D o w ) D o w i c i l 200 ( D o w ) F i n s o l v TN ( F i n e t e x ) A c r y l ates/CIO-C30 A1 k y l A c r y l a t e C r o s s p o l ymer (BFGoodri c h ) Carbomer (BFGoodrich)

Preparation: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. 2 . Combine f i r s t f o u r P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . M i x u n t i l oxybenzone has been d i s s o l v e d . Warming w i l l h a s t e n dissolution. 3. Disperse l a s t f o u r B ingredients i n Part B vessel. Mix t o b r e a k - u p 1 umps. 4. W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x f o r 20-40 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l a smooth, n o n - g r a i n y d i s p e r s i o n i s a p p a r e n t . Add P a r t C ( t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e ) and m i x u n t i l a smooth, l u s t rous product i s obtained. Formula 700-202-49F

SOURCE: BF G o o d r i c h C o . : W a t e r p r o o f Sunscreen E m u l s i o n s

Sun Care Products

565

Waterproof Sunscreen with Ultrafine TiO2 E a s y - t o - b l e n d o/w cream y i e l d s a n o n t a c k y , w a t e r p r o o f , o i l p r o o f f i n i s h . H y d r o p h o b i c / l i p o p h o b i c t r e a t m e n t on t h e T i 0 2 f o r easier dispersion a l s o provents i t from d e s t a b i l i z i n g t h e emulsion. Inqredients: % bv W e i a h t A . Deionized water 60.80 Propylene g l y c o l 5.00 Benecel 0.10 AMP-95 0.25 Versene 0.05 Germabe'n I I E 0.30 B. C e r a p h y l 424 4.00 Acrylates/ClO-30 a l k y l a c r y l a t e crosspolymer 0.20 Carbomer 2984 0.20 Sorbitan oleate 0.10 C . PF-10 STT-65C-S 10.00 C a p r o l 1OG-10-0 1.oo C12-15 a1 k y l b e n z o a t e 15.00 Butyl stearate 3.00 Procedure: M i x A; h e a t t o 50C. M i x 8, h e a t t o 50C. G r i n d C, add t o B and m i x w e l l , Add BC a t 50C t o A a t 50C w h i l e homomixing. Sweep t o 40C. F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0325 s u g g e s t e d by Kobo ZnO/TiO2, Sunscreen Lotion, SPF-15 L i g h t - t e x t u r e d , w a t e r - r e s i s t a n t sunscreen u t i l i z e s a d i s p e r s i o n o f s u r f a c e - t r e a t e d t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e and z i n c o x i d e . A l t h o u g h t h e p r o j e c t e d SPF o f t h i s t r e a t e d i n o r g a n i c s u n b l o c k f o r m u l a i s 15, " i n v i v o " t e s t i n g SPF 1 7 + . Inqredients: % by Weiaht A . D e m i n e r a l i zed w a t e r 50.20 B. D e r m a c r y l LT 1 .oo C. AMP-95 q.s. 0.30 D . Xanthan gum 2.00 ProDvlene q l v c o l E . 79790 D i s p e r s i o n UF T i 0 2 and 2-Cote HP-1 30.00 0.50 DC200 F l u i d 1.50 Cetearyl alcohol 1.50 L i pomui se I 6 5 Brookswax P 2.00 5.00 F. Polysorbate-20 Fragrance q.s. G . Germaben I 1 1-00 Brookosome SO 5.00 Procedure: D i s p e r s e B i n A; h e a t t o 80C. A d j u s t pH t o 8 . 0 w i t h C . Add D t o ABC; m i x 30 m i n u t e s . Combine E; h e a t t o 85C. Add E t o ABCD; m i x and c o o l t o 40C. Premix F; add t o b a t c h . Homogenize u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e ; add G . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0324 s u g g e s t e d b y C a r d r e SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

566

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Water Resistant Sunscreen Inaredient : 1 Dehymuls HRE7 2 C e t i o l SN 3 Eutanol G 4 M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne wax 5 Zinc stearate 6 P a r s o l MCX 7 P a r s o l 1789 8 Glycerine 9 Magnesi um s u l p h a t e 10 P r e s e r v a t i ve 1 1 Water

%w/w 7.0 10.0 6.0 1.0 1.0 6.0 1 .o 5.0 0.5

q.s. t o 100.0

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a w a t e r r e s i s t a n t W/O sun s c r e e n l o t i on. The f i r s t seven components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Components 8 B 9 a r e d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r and t h i s m i x t u r e i s t h e n h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e as t h e o i l phase. The w a t e r phase i s t h e n added t o t h e o i l phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C Formula TS 463 Water Resistant Sunscreen Inaredient: 1 Dehymuls HRE7 2 C e t i o l SN 3 T i o v e i l MOTG 4 M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne wax 5 Zinc stearate 6 Glycerine 7 Magnesi um s u l p h a t e 8 Preservative 9 Water

%w/w 7.0 10.0 6.0 1.0

1 .o 5.0 0.5

q.s. t o 100.0

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s a w a t e r r e s i s t a n t W/O sun s c r e e n cream. On a p p l i c a t i o n , t h e T i o v i e l shows w h i t e on t h e s k i n , b u t i s e a s i l y rubbed i n . The f i r s t f i v e components a r e m e l t e d t o g e t h e r a t a b o u t 85C. Components 6 & 7 a r e d i s s o l v e d i n t h e w a t e r and t h i s m i x t u r e i s t h e n h e a t e d t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e as t h e o i l phase. The w a t e r phase i s t h e n added t o t h e o i l phase and d i s p e r s e d . M i x i n g s h o u l d c o n t i n u e down t o a b o u t 35C. Formula TS 474

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: S k i n Care P r o j e c t F o r m u l a t i o n s

Sun Care Products

567

Water Resistant Sunscreen Lotion

Wt.% A.

S t e a r i c A c i d , TP D i m e t h i c o n e (and) T r i m e t h y l s i l o x y s i l a t e (Dow C o r n i n g , 593 F l u i d ) O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA (Van Dyk, E s c a l o l 507) C12-15 A l c o h o l s Benzoate ( F i n e t e x , F i n s o l v TN) C e t y l R i c i n o l e a t e (Cas Chem, N a t u r e Chem C R ) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Van Dyk, C e r a s y n t SD) M i n k O i l (Emulan, Heavy F r a c t i o n ) P r o p y l Paraben

10,oo 5.00 1 .oo 0.80 1 .50 5.00 0.15 5.00 1.oo 0.25 66.80

6 . S o r b i t o l , 70% ( I C I , Triethanolamine, M e t h y l Paraben Water

3.50

Sorbo) 99%

Procedure: Add 75C Phase B t o 75C Phase A v i a p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n . Sunblock A w a t e r r e s i s t a n t sun p r o t e c t i v e l o t i o n . Screens o u t UV-A and U V - 6 . E f f e c t i v e s u n b l o c k . SPF a p p r o x i m a t e l y 1 5 .

Soya S t e r o l ( G e n e r o l 122, H e n k e l ) I s o p r o p y l L a n o l a t e ( A m e r l a t e P, A m e r c h o l ) M i n k O i l (Emulan L i g h t ) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) S t e a r y l Alcohol (and) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( C e r a s y n t WM, Van Dyk) S t e a r i c A c i d X X X (Emersol 132, Emery) Cetyl Alcohol E t h y l D i h y d r o x y p r o p y l PABA ( a n d ) P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l (Amerscreen P-80/20, A m e r c h o l ) Benzophenone-3 ( E s c a l o l 567, Van Dyk) P r o p y l Paraben

1 .30 1.50 21 . o o

8.

P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l USP T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% Water M e t h y l Paraben

3.00 0,75 32.05 0.20

C.

M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e C e l l u l o s e ( A v i c e l RC 591, Water DMDM H y d a n t o i n ( G l y d a n t , Lonza) Perfume

A.

FMC)

3.00 3.60 0.50 6.00 3.00 0.10

3.50 20.00 0.30 0.20

Procedure: M e l t Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 8 O C . Add 8OC Phase B v i a h i g h shear p r o p e l l o r . S t i r cool t o 30C. Add Phase C .

SOURCE:

Emulan,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

568

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

W/O SPF20 Sunscreen with Eldew % by Weiqht I n q r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: P a r t A: 4.00 S t e a r i c A c i d T r i p l e Pressed 1-00 Cetyl Alcohol 2.00 DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amphisol D i m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) T r i m e t h y l s l o x y s i 1 i cate/Dow C o r n i ng 5.00 593 MCX 7.50 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Parso 6.00 B e n z o ~ h e n o n e - 3 / U v i n u l M-40 O c t y l ' s a l i c y l a t e / U v i n u l 0-18 5.00 O c t y l d o d e c y l N e o p e n t a n o a t e / E l e f a c 1-205 5.00 Methylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and) Ethylparaben 0.20 (and) Propylparaben/Nipastat D i ( c h l o e s t e r y l , behenyl, octyldodecyl) 5.00 N - L a u r o y l - L - G l u t a m i c A c i d e s t e r / E l d e w CL-301 Part B: D e i o n i z e d Water 57.75 0.25 Sodium Carbomer/PNC 400 P a r t C: D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germall I 1 0.30 D e i o n i z e d Water 1.00 Combine P a r t A and h e a t t o 75 d e g r e e s C e n t i g r a d e w i t h m i x i n g . Heat d e i o n i z e d w a t e r o f P a r t B t o 75 d e g r e e s C . D i s p e r s e PNC 400 i n t o t h e wat er w i t h h i g h shear m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m g e l i s f o r m e d . Add p a r t A t o p a r t B w i t h m i x i n g . H o l d a t 75 d e g r e e s f o r 15 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 40 d e g r e e s C and add p r e m i x e d p a r t C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s m i x i n q . Cool t o 30 d e s r e e s C . Appearance: W h i t e , - s m o o t h , s h i n y cream pH: 6 . 0 0 t o 6 . 5 0 V i s c o s i t y : 60,000-80,000 c p s (RVT #6 @ 10 rpm @ 25 d e g r e e s C) Sunscreen Lip Balm with Eldew I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: % b y Weiqht Part A: Carnauba Wax #I Y e l l o w 4.00 O z o k e r i t e Wax JH1680 4.00 S y n t h e t i c Beeswax JH-1508 10.00 Propylparaben 0.15 Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl L a u r o y l G l u t a m a t e / 10.00 Eldew CL-301 P a r t B: Castor O i l 26.55 PPG-3 H y d o r g e n a t e d C a s t o r O i l / H e t e s t e r HCP 15.00 G1 y c e r y l T r i a c e t y l H y d r o x y s t e a r a t e / H e t e s t e r HCA 15.00 O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e / P a r s o l MCX 7.50 Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 5.00 O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e / U v i n u l 0-18 2.00 Tocopheryl Acatate/Vitamin E Acetate 0.60 P a r t C: Bisabolol (Synthetic) 0.20 Heat P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 80 d e g r e e s C e n t i g r a d e . M i x u n t i l a l l s o l i d s a r e c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 65 d e g r e e s C e n t i g r a d e . Add P a r t C . Mix w e l l . F i l l . SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Section Xlll Miscellaneous

569

570

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cleanser, Clear, Liquid

36w/w Dehyton AB30 V i s c o n t r a n HEC 30 000 PR-2% s o l u t i o n Perfume, w a t e r - s o l u b l e

30.0 69.0 1.0

N o t e : WAS 6%, h i g h v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. L610-01 Cleanser, Disinfecting, Transparent, In Gel Form

%w/w Texapon N70 Dehyton AB30 Bactericide Water

30.0 20.0 0.5 49.5

N o t e : WAS 27% Formula No. L610-03 Footbath, Fungicide, Liquid %w/W

Dehyton AB30 F u n g i c i d e DA Perfume Water

30.0 2.0

1.0 67.0

N o t e : WAS 9% F o r m u l a No. L610-05 Washing Cream for Tube Filling

%w/w Texapon N40 Comperl an 100 C u t i n a AGS Hydagen P C i t r i c acid Perfume Water N o t e : WAS 17% F o r m u l a No. L610-07

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

50.00 3.00 5.00 2.00 0.05 1.oo 38.95

Miscellaneous

571

Clear Golden Hydrogel % b v Weiaht Innredients: 86.98 A . Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) 0.10 EDTA D i s o d i urn 1.50 C e l l o s i z e PCG-10 3.00 8. Dow C o r n i n g 193 0.70 C. S u t t o c i d e A 4.00 P r o n a l en F r u i t A c i d s AHA-20 0.60 AMP-95 3.00 E x t r a p o n e Bamboo T i m i r o n S u n g o l d 0.02 Spark1 e MP-29 0.10 P e r f . Rain Forest N o t e : M a i n t a i n pH c l o s e t o 5 . 5 0 ( n o t o v e r ) , c o r r e c t w i t h AMP, if n e c e s s a r y . D a s c r i p t i on: P r o d u c t i s m i l d due t o a c t i o n o f Oow C o r n i n g 193 w h i c h p r o v i d e s smmoth f e e l on t h e s k i n . Procedure: I . Put w a t e r i n t h e t a n k , add EDTA, m i x and s t a r t h e a t i n g . 2 . S p r i n k l e C e l l o s i z e on t o p and h e a t t h e m i x t u r e up t o 75C. 3 . Then s t a r t c o o l i n g t h e m i x t u r e and add DC 193. 4 . Gel w i l l be formed on c o o l i n g . 5. When t e m p e r a t u r e i s b e l o w 50C, add S u t t o c i d e and m i x and a f t e r t h a t add AHA s l o w l y . 6 . The a d d i t i o n o f AHA w i l l b r e a k t h e g e l and t h e n a d d i t i o n o f AMP-95 w i l l h e l p t o r e f o r m i t . 7 . Premix p i g m e n t w i t h p l a n t e x t r a c t and add s l o w l y , and a f t e r t h a t perfume. 8 . S t o p m i x i n g a t 25C, t a k e sample f o r QA and when a p p r o v e d pack t h e p r o d u c t . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0309 s u g g e s t e d by Dow C o r n i n g Glycerol Gel Base Other ingredients may be incorporated as desired.

56 b v W e i a h t Inqredients: Water, d e i o n i z e d 9.00 S t a b i l e z e 06 0.50 AMP-95 0.50 Glycerine 89.70 q.s Add it i ves Germall I 1 0.30 Procedure: D i s p e r s e S t a b i l e z e i n w a t e r w i t h s t i r r i n g f o r 10 m i n u t e s . Heat t h e d i s p e r s i o n t o 70-8OC f o r 15 t o 20 m i n u t e s , u n t i l t h i c k e n i n g o c c u r s . S t a r t c o o l i n g . Add AMP w i t h s t i r r i n g . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add g l y c e r i n e s l o w l y o v e r 1 0 m i n u t e s w i t h s t i r r i n g . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m g e l i s o b t a i n e d . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , m i x i n g t h o r o u g h l y a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0244E s u g g e s t e d b y I S P SOURCE: Angus Chemical Co.: Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

572

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Dentifrice Gel D e n t i f r i c e g e l w i t h a n t i - c a r i e s a c t i v e sodium m o n o f l u o r o p h o s p h a t e (Sodium MFP). Wei Q h t %

Inqredient: Part A: G1 y c e r in C a r b o p o l 1382 ( 1 ) P a r t B: Dei o n i zed Water Tetrasodium Pyrophosphate Sodium S a c c h a r i n e Sodium B e n z o a t e Sodium MFP Part C: Sodium H y d r o x i d e (50%) P a r t D: D i c a l c i um Phosphate,

Dihydrate

Part E: Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 2 ) F1 a v o r

Function

22.00 0.50

Humectant Gel 1 i ng Agent

24.43 0.25 0.20 0.76

D i 1u e n t Chel a n t Sweetener Preservative Active

0.40

Neutralizer

0.50

40.76 1.20 1.00

Abrasive Surfactant

( 1 ) Carbomer ( B F G o o d r i c h ) ( 2 ) T e x a p o l LS lOOF ( H e n k e l ) P r e p a r a t i o n Procedure: 1 . In a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l vacuum m i x e r t a n k a t a m b i e n t tempera t u r e and p r e s s u r e , s l o w l y add C a r b o p o l t o g l y c e r i n w i t h rapid agitation. 2. I n s e p a r a t e v e s s e l combine P a r t B w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a c l e a r s o l u t i o n i s formed, t h e n combine w i t h P a r t A w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Add P a r t C t o P a r t s A and B w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . 4 . Add P a r t D w i t h s l o w m i x i n g u n t i l powder i s w e t t e d . 5. T u r n on vacuum and m i x a t m o d e r a t e speed 30 m i n u t e s , i n t r o d u c e P a r t E . M i x 5-7 m i n u t e s a t v e r y s l o w speed.

SOURCE:

BFGoodrich C o . : F o r m u l a C-0037

Miscellaneous

Denture Cleanser in Powder Form Texapon K12 Sodium t r i p o l y p h o s p h a t e Sodium c a r b o n a t e Sodium p e r b o r a t e Sodium c h l o r i d e Borax, i n f i n e powder f o r m Chloramine T I1 Phenolphthalein I 1 1 P e p p e r m i n t o i l P17

I

573

*

0.50 54.45 15.00 10.00 1 .oo 15.00 3.00 0.05 1 .oo

Preparation: Pass I t h r o u g h a s i e v e w i t h a mesh s i z e o f 0 . 5 mm. F i n e l y g r i n d I 1 w i t h p a r t o f I and add i t t o t h e whole amount o f I . Wet t h i s m i x t u r e w i t h 1 1 1 and m i x i t i n a m i x i n g drum. F o r m u l a No. K81-01 Denture Cleaner in Tablet Form Texapon K12 P o t a s s i um p e r s u l f a t e Sodium p e r b o r a t e Sodi um c a r b o n a t e P o t a s s i um h e x a c y a n o f e r r a t e I 1 I 1 Peppermint o i l PI7

I

0.5 30.0 30.0 37.0 2.0 0.5

Preparation: Pass I t h r o u g h a s i e v e w i t h a mesh s i z e o f 0 . 5 mm and wet w i t h 1 1 . The s u b s t a n c e s a r e w e l l m i x e d i n a m i x i n g drum and t h e n compressed t o f o r m t a b l e t s . Formula No. K81-05 Denture-Cleaning Tablets

I

Sodium t r i p o l y p h o s p h a t e Colorant 1 1 Potassium p e r s u l f a t e Texapon K12 Sodi um p e r b o r a t e Sodi um b i c a r b o n a t e Chloramine T 1 1 1 Peppermint o i l P17

38.5 0.1 16.0 0.5 29.9 7.0 0.5 0.5

Preparation: G r i n d I , m i x w i t h I 1 and p a s s t h r o u g h a s i e v e w i t h a mesh s i z e o f 0 . 5 mm. Wet w i t h I 1 1 and m i x w e l l i n a m i x i n g drum. The m i x t u r e i s t h e n compressed t o f o r m t a b l e t s . Formula No. K81-06 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

574

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Detackification of Carbomer Gel A

Weiqht% 90 30

D e i o n i z e d Water Carbomer 940 Potassium Sorbate

I

0.80 0.10

B

D e i o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

2.00 0.80

C

Pelemol G7A ( G l y c e r e t h - 7 T r i a c e t a t e )

5.00

D

P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( a n d ) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben

1 .oo

Lab P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n phase 6 w a t e r . When a u n i f o r m d i s p e r s i on i s o b t a i ned add P o t a s s i um S o r b a t e w i t h a d e q u a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add phase t o phase 6 under sweep a g i t a t i o n . When a u n i f o r m g e l i s o b t a i n e d , add phase C t o under s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n and add phase Q t o G *The a d d i t i o n o f Pelemol G7A t o a Carbomer g e l w i l l , i n many c a s e s , c o m p l e t e l y e l i m i n a t e t h e g e l ' s t r a n s i t i o n a l t a c k i n e s s on dry-down. Formula 14-42-A Detackification of Carbomer

.

Gel Weight%

A

90.30 0.80

D e i o n i z e d Water Carbomer 940 P o t a s s i um S o r b a t e

0.10

B

D e i o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

2.00 0.80

C

Glycerin

5.00

D

P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i azo1 id i n y l Urea ( a n d ) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben

1.00

Lab P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n phase A w a t e r . When a u n i f o r m d i s p e r s i o n i s o b t a i n e d add P o t a s s i u m S o r b a t e w i t h a d e q u a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add phase B t o phase 4 under sweep a g i t a t i o n . When a u n i f o r m g e l under s l o w speed a g i t a t i o n . i s o b t a i n e d , add phase C t o C o n t i n u e s l o w sweep a g i t a t i o n and add phase Q t o & . *The a d d i t i o n o f Pelemol G7A t o a Carbomer g e l w i 11, i n many c a s e s , c o m p l e t e l y e l i m i n a t e t h e g e l ' s t r a n s i t i o n a l t a c k i n e s s on dry-down. Formula 14-42-8

SOURCE:

Phoenix Chemical,

I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Miscellaneous

575

Liposome Gel A s o o t h i n g g e l c o m b i n i n g t h e b e n e f i t s o f v i t a m i n s A, i n a s y n e r g i s t i c and e f f e c t i v e l i p o s o m e system. Inaredients: 1 . O i s t i 1 l e d / O e i o n i zed Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer 940) 3. Xanthan Gum 4 . 1,3-Butylene Glycol 5 . O i m e t h i cone Copol yo1 6. Shebu WS (Shea B u t t e r ) 7 . TEA @ 99% 8 . Promois ECP ( C o l l a g e n ) 9. Glydant 10. Fragrance 11.Rovisome ACE ( V i t a m i n B l e n d )

%w/w 87.40 0.50 0.10

5.00 0.10 1 .oo 0.40 0.20 0.20 0.10 5.00

C and E

Function

----

G e l l i n g Agent Gel 1 ing Agent S o l u b i 1 iz e r Conditioning Conditioning pH A d j u s t e r B i 01 o g i c a l Additive Preservative Odor Liposome

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 2 i n w a t e r . Add i t e m s 3 and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add i t e m s 4 , 5 and 6 s e p a r a t e l y . Add TEA u n t i l b a t c h t h i c k e n s . Add i t e m s 8, 9, 1 0 and 1 1 . The pH o f a g e l i s 5 . 5 . R e f . No. 119-6

Liposome Gel A soothing gel combining t h e b e n e f i t s o f Hyaluronic Acid d e l i v e r e d deep i n t h e s k i n v i a Rovisome.

%w/w Inaredients: 06.87 1 . D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 0.70 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer 9 4 0 ) 0.10 3 . T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 4.00 4. 1 , 3 - B u t y l e n e G l y c o l 5 . M e t h y l d i b r o m o G l u t a r o n i t r i l e and 0.30 Phenoxyethanol 6 . Sodium H y d r o x i d e @ 10% q.s 7 . Rovisome HA ( A l c o h o l and L e c i t h i n and 8.00 Hyaluronic Acid) 8 . FD&C B l u e N o . 1 S o l u t i o n @ 10% 0.03

Function

---_

Viscosity S t a b i 1 it y S o l u b i 1 iz e r Preservative pH A d j u s t e r Moisturization Color

Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e A c r i t a m e r i n w a t e r w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Add i t e m s 3-5 w i t h c o n t i n u o u s a g i t a t i o n . A d j u s t pH w i t h i t e m 6 t o 6 . 2 - 7 . 0 . Then add Rovisome and d y e s . R e f . N o . 119-120 SOURCE: R . I . T . A .

C o r p . : S k i n Care F o r m u l a r y

576

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Mouth-Wash Gargle, Foaming ~

I

Texapon K12 Cremogen camomile s p e c . Cremogen w i t c h h a z e l e x t r a c t Arnica t i n c t u r e

I1

Water

1.8 0.5 5.0 5.0 75.5

0.2

I11 Menthol Thymol Peppermint o i l P17, w a t e r - s o l u b l e I V

96% e t h y l a l c o h o l

0.5 1.5 10.0

Preparation: D i s s o l v e I i n 1 1 , d i s s o l v e I 1 1 i n I V and m i x b o t h s o l u t i o n s . Formula No. K 51-01 Mouth-Wash Gargle, Emulsifying

w I I1

4.0

C e t i o l HE Water

13.0

Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9

18.0 10.0 55.0

1 1 1 Mouth-wash aroma 96% e t h y l a l c o h o l Preparation: M i x t h e phases i n t h e o r d e r g i v e n above. F o r m u l a No. K51-02

SOURCE:

Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic

Model

Formulae

Miscellaneous

577

Oil-Liposome-Gel I n n r e d ie n t s : %-bv Wei q h t D i s s o l ve: 52.80 W a t e r , demi n e r a l i z e d Panthenol 1 .oo Add : E t h a n o l DAB 9 13.30 Add g r a d u a l l y a n d homogenize a p p r o x i m a t e l y 20 m i n u t e s : Carbopol 940 0.80 Add g r a d u a l l y and homogenize a p p r o x i m a t e l y 15 m i n u t e s : Jojoba O i l 5.00 0.50 T i t a n i um d i o x i d e F o r n e u t r a l i z a t i o n add g r a d u a l l y and homogenize a p p r o x i m a t e l y 15 m i n u t e s : T r i s Amino 1.30 5.00 W a t e r , Demi n e r a l i zed Add and homogenize: N a t i p i d e I 1 (20% P h o s p h o l i p i d s ) 20.00 C o n t . 1% V i t a m i n E - a c e t a t e , 1% V i t a m i n C - p a l m i t a t e Add and homogenize: Perfume o i l / S a r a g 607,423D 0.30 T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n i s preserved by 16 weight percent e t h a n o l . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0248E s u g g e s t e d b y RPR N a t t e r m a n n P h o s p h o l i p i d GmbH Vitamin-Liposome-Gel

Ingredients: %Lw__ei-CL!lL Dissolve: W a t e r , demi n e r a l i zed 5 4 60 E t h a n o l DAB 9 13.30 Add g r a d u a l l y and homogenize a p p r o x i m a t e l y 20 m i n u t e s : Carbopol 940 0.80 M i x , add g r a d u a l l y and homogenize a p p r o x i m a t e l y 20 m i n u t e s : 1 .25 Carrot O i l 3.75 Macademi a O i 1 F o r n e u t r a l i z a t i o n , add g r a d u a l l y and homogenize a p p r o x i m a t e l y 15 minutes: T r i s Amino 1 .oo W a t e r , demi n e r a l i zed 5.00 Add and homogenize: N a t i p i d e I I (20% Phosphol i p i d s ) 20.00 Cont 1% V i t a m i n E - a c e t a t e , 1% V i t a m i n C-palmi t a t e Add and homogenize w i t h : Perfume o i l / D i a m e l a 15,544RB 0.30 I

.

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n i s p r e s e r v e d by 16 w e i g h t p e r c e n t e t h a n o l . F o r m u l a t i o n PF-0247E s u g g e s t e d By RPR Nattermann Phospho1 i p i d GmbH SOURCE: Angus Chemical C o . : Angus P r o d u c t F o r m u l a r y

578

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Personal Hygiene Cleansers Cleaner, Disinfectant, Clear

%w/w Texapon MLS Bacteri ci de 1,2-propylene glycol Water

60.0 O. 5 5.0 34.5

Note: WAS 20%, low viscous Formula No. L611-01 Cleanser, Disinfectant, Clear

%w/w Texapon SBN Bacteri ci de 1,2-propylene glycol Sodium chloride Water

60.0 0.5 3.0 2.0 34.5

Note: WAS 18%, low viscous Formula No. L611-03 Cleanser, Bactericide, Clear, Liquid

%w/w Dehyton AB3Q Dehyquart SP Viscontran HEC 30 000 PR-2% Perfume Water

solution

15.0 0.1 60.0 0.2 24.7

Note: WAS 4.5%, medium viscous Formula No. L611-05 Cleanser, Disinfecting, Aerosol-Packed

%w/w Texapon ASV Comperlan OD Bacteri ci de Ethyl alcohol 96% Water F i l l i n g : 90 parts s o l u t i o n 10 parts propellant 12/114 (40:60) Note: WAS 19% Formula No. 611-06 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

50.0 4.0 0.5 2.5 43.0

Miscellaneous

579

Personal Hygiene Cleansing Emulsions (Cleansers in Emulsion Form for Personal Hygiene)

Cleansing Lotion, Disinfecting, Pearly %W/w

Texapon N40 Comperlan K D C u t i n a AGS P a r a f f i n o i l , high viscous Bactericide P o l y g l y c o l 400 Water

60.0 7.0 7.0 10.0 0.5 10.0 5.5

N o t e : WAS 24%, medium v i s c o u s P r e p a r a t i o n : The s u b s t a n c e s a r e h e a t e d t o 60-70C a n d t h e n stirred whilst cooling. F o r m u l a No. L612-01 Cleansing Lotion, Disinfecting, Pearly

yowl w Texapon E V R Texapon N40 Bacter i c i de 1 , Z - p r o p y l ene g l y c o l Water

40.0 40.0 0.5 5.0 14.5

Note: WAS 26%, medium v i s c o u s F o r m u l a No. L612-02 Personal Hygiene Spray Eutanol G C e t y l t r i m e t h y l ammonium b r o m i d e E t h y l a l c o h o l 96% Perfume P r o p e l l a n t 12/114 ( 4 0 : 6 0 )

%W/W 1.o

0.1 2.0 0.5 96.4

N o t e : I t i s a d v i s a b l e t o use a b a t h o i l p e r f u m e w h i c h h a s been t e s t e d f o r i t s c o m p a t i b i l i t y w i t h t h e mucous membranes and s t a b i l i t y i n aerosol cans. Formula No. L71-01 Personal Hygiene Spray (Dry Spray) Hydagen DE0 M y r i t o l 318 F r i g e n 12 p r o p e l l a n t Formula No. L71-02 SOURCE: H e n k e l KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

Parts 1.50 g 1.95 g 96.55 g

580

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Quick Emulsifying Base-A Ingredients: D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 8852) PEG-25 G l y c e r y l T r i o l e a t e ( T a g a t TO) Avocado O i l Calendula O i 1 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) Color, Fragrance

%w/w 10.0 18.0 20.0 10.0 42.0 Q.S.

Quick Emulsifying Base-B Inaredi ents: D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 8852) PEG-25 G l y c e r y l T r i o l e a t e ( T a g a t TO) Avocado O i l Mineral O i l I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e g o s o f t M) Color, Fragrence

%w/w 10.0 13.0 20.0 50.0 7.0 Q.S.

Quick Emulsifying Base-C Inaredients: D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 8852) PEG-25 G l y c e r y l T r i o l e a t e ( T a g a t TO) Avocado O i l M i n e r a l Oil Isopropyl M y r i s t a t e (Tegosoft M) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) Color, Fragrance

96w/w 10.0 10.0 15.0 25.0 30.0 10.0 P.S.

Procedure: Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l between a d d i t i o n s . Bases a r e c l e a r w i t h a h o n e y - l i k e v i s c o s i t y . Uses : B l o o m i n g b a t h o i l s , i n s t a n t l o t i o n s f o r a f t e r b a t h . A f t e r sun emol 1 ie n t l o t i o n s . When t h e s e f o r m u l a s a r e added t o w a t e r o r t o wet s k n, e m o l l i e n t and n o n - s t i c k y e m u l s i o n s a r e f o r m e d .

SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t ons

Miscellaneous

581

Shampoo Concentrate for Dogs and Cats (Formula 92-0604) % b v Weinht Rhodapex NA 61 A1 kami de DC-212/S M i r a t a i n e BET C30 Sodi um C h l o r i d e D e i o n i z e d Water C i t r i c Acid Fragrance, dye, p r e s e r v a t i v e

33.0 20.0 26.0 4.0 17.0 q.s.

pH t o 8.0+-0.2 q.s.

B l e n d i n q Procedure: I n t h e main m a n u f a c t u r i n g v e s s e l , b l e n d t h e Rhodapex NA 61 and t h e NaCl and b e g i n h e a t i n g t o 50-55C. A t t h a t t e m p e r a t u r e , add t h e A l k a m i d e DC-212/S and t h e M i r a t a i n e BET C30 and m i x u n t i l t h e b a t c h i s homogeneous and c l e a r . L e t b a t c h c o o l t o 40-45C and add w a t e r , f r a g r a n c e , d y e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . C o n t i n u e t o l e t b a t c h c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . N o t e : The v i s c o s i t y o f t h e l e t d o w n a t d i f f e r e n t r a t i o s c a n b e a d j u s t e d by t h e amount o f NaCl added t o t h e f o r m u l a . F o r m u l a t i o n Produc t : T h i s p r o d u c t can be d i l u t e d f r o m 3 : l t o 1 5 : l Flea&Tick Shampoo for Dogs % bv Weight 2.00 0.44 10.00 q.s. 87.56

SD40 A l c o h o l P y r o c i de 51 92 (McLaughl in Gorml ey K i ng Co. ) Rhodapex MA 360 F r a g r a n c e , Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

B le n d i n a Procedure: Combine SD40 a l c o h o l and P y r o c i d e and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m and c l e a r . Add a l c o h o l / P y r o c i d e b l e n d t o Rhodapex MA 360, and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add m i x t u r e t o w a t e r . Add f r a g r a n c e , d y e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Active Insredients: Pyrethrins: Piperonylbutoxide, tech:* N-octyl b i c y c l heptene dicarboximide: P e t r o l e u m d i s t i 1l a t e s :

*

E q u i v a l e n t t o 0.064% ( b u t y l c a r b i t y l ) e t h e r and 0.016% r e l a t e d compounds.

SOURCE:

0.040%

0.080% 0.032% 0.189% (6-propylpiperonyl)

Rhone-Poulenc S u r f a c t a n t s & S p e c i a l t i e s :

Formulas

582

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin Conditioning Body Shampoo (cold process) Inqredi ents: %w/w T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 0.10 Water 40.75 Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e - 2 m . E . O . 25.00 Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e 20.00 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F 5 0 ) 5.00 PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate ( T e g o s o f t GC) 2.50 PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L ) 1.00 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 8852) 0.50 Water ( a n d ) E t h o x y d i g l y c o l (and) P r o p y l en@ G1 y c o l (and) Butylene G l y c o l (and) M a t r i c a r i a E x t r a c t (and) Sage E x t r a c t ( a n d ) Yarrow E x t r a c t ( a n d ) Balm M i n t E x t r a c t ( a n d ) Rosemary E x t r a c t ( a n d ) R e s t h a r r o w E x t r a c t ( a n d ) C o l t s f o o t E x t r a c t ( a n d ) W i l d Thyme E x t r a c t ( a n d ) H o r s e t a i l E x t r a c t (and) Fructose (and) A l t h e a E x t r a c t ( E x t r a p o n e 3 S p e c i a l 2/789490 Dragoco) 0.15 C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n ) t o pH 6 Preservatives Q.S. Fragrance Q.S. Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ( a n d ) G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( A n t i 1 HS-60) 5.00 Ammonium C h l o r i d e (25% s o l u t i o n ) as needed Procedure: Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , Adjust viscosity.

m i x i n g between a d d i t i o n s . A d j u s t p H .

Body Building Conditioner Ingredients: Water Glyceryl Stearate S.E. (Tegin) G1 y c o l S t e a r a t e (EGMS-VA) C e t y l A1 coho1 Propylene Glycol Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 8852) Color, Preservatives, Fragrance

%w/w 90.10 3.00

1.00 2.00 3.00 0.50 0.40

Q.S.

Procedure: 1 . Heat t h e w a t e r t o 70-75C. D i s p e r s e t h e T e g i n , EGMS-VA, and Cetyl Alcohol. Mix w e l l . 2. B e g i n c o o l i n g . Cool t o 45-50C w h i l e m i x i n g . M i x t h e P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l and t h e A b i l Quat 3272 t o g e t h e r and add t o t e b a t c h Mix, 3 . S w i t c h t o sweep m i x e r . Cool t o 40-45C. Add t h e A b i l B 8852, C o l o r , P r e s e r v a t i v e s , and F r a g r a n c e . M i x . 4. Continue c o o l i n g . F i l l . F o r m u l a GCC 16-11 I

.

SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Chemi c a l Corp : Suggested Formul a t ons

Miscellaneous

583

Tooth Gel, Foaming, Transparent o

I

Water Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% s o l u t i o n ) I 1 Dehydazol A4000P I 1 1 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 I V S i d e n t 12 DS A e r o s i l 200 V Eumulgin SML 20 Eumulgin SMS 20 T o o t h p a s t e aroma V I Texapon K12 Water

m

6.0 0.2 0.6 66.0 18.0 2.0 0.4 0.8 1.0 1.o 4.0

Preparation: Sodium c h l o r i d e i s d e s s o l v e d i n w a t e r . Dehydazol A400P and g l y c e r i n a r e added and a l l o w e d t o s w e l l . S i d e n t 12 DS and A e r o s i l 200 a r e added and s t i r r e d i n u n t i l a homogeneous p a s t e i s c r e a t e d . The t o o t h p a s t e aroma i s s o l u b i l i z e d i n t h e e m u l s i f i e r Eumulgin SML 20/SMS 20 i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , and t h e n added t o t h e m i x t u r e . Texapon K12 and t h e w a t e r a r e s t i r r e d i n c a r e f u l l y ( t o p r e v e n t foam f o r m a t i o n ) . D e - a e r a t i o n t a k e s p l a c e i n a s t r o n g vacuum. Formula No. K11-10 Tooth Gel, Foaming, Transparent

y&wJJ Water Sodi um h y d r o x i de I 1 Dehydazol A400P 1 1 1 S o r b i t o l (70%) IV S i d e n t 12 DS A e r o s i l 200 V E u m u l g i n SML 20 Eumulgin SMS 20 T o o t h p a s t e aroma V I Texapon K12 Water C o l o r i n g a g e n t E 131 1%

I

6.0 0.2 0.6 68.0 16.0 2.0 0.4 0.8 1.0

1 .o

3.5 0.5

P r e p a r a t ion : D i s s o l v e t h e sodium h y d r o x i d e i n w a t e r . Add s o r b i t o l and a l l o w t o s w e l l w i t h Dehydazol A400P, s t i r r i n g s l o w l y . When s w e l l i n g i s c o m p l e t e ( a n y lumps must b e d e s t r o y e d ) add S i d e n t 12 DS and A e r o s i l 200 and s t i r you have a homogeneous p a s t e . The aroma i s s o l u b i l i z e d i n E u m u l g i n SML 20/SMS 20 i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l b e f o r e b e i n g added t o t h e p a s t e . The c o l o r i n g a g e n t and t h e Texapon K12 a r e d i s s o l v e d i n w a t e r and s t i r r e d i n c a r e f u l l y ( k e e p foam f o r m a t i o n t o a minimum). D e - a e r a t e f o r max. 1 / 2 h o u r i n a s t r o n g vacuum. (Vacuum 1650 Pa.) F o r m u l a N o . K11-11

SOURCE : Hen k e l KGaA : C o m e t ic Model Formul ae

584

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Toothpaste M a t e r i a1 /CTFA-Index: T y l o s e CB 200/Sodium Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e Water HDK N 20 P / S i l i c a G1 y c e r i n e S o r b i t o 1 70%ig / S o r b i t o 1 Calcium Carbonate Texapon K 1296/Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e Preservatives, f l a v o u r s , pigments

1.20% 31 .EO 2.00 10.00 10.00 40.00

5.00 q.s.

D i s p e r s e T y l o s e w e l l i n w a t e r and l e t s w e l l . Add HDK and d i s p e r s e w e l l , m i x i n g l y c e r i n e and S o r b i t o l . S t i r i n c a l c i u m c a r b o n a t e . Add Texapon K 1296 c a r e f u l l y ; a v o i d s t r o n g f o a m i n g Evacuate t h e f i n i s h e d f o r m u l a t i o n f o r a s h o r t p e r i o d . F o r m u l a t i o n 250 AH Toothpaste, Transparent Material/CTFA-Index: T y l o s e CB 2OO/Sodium Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e Water Pol y e t h y l e n g l o k o l 400/PEG-8 S o r b i t o 1 70%i g / S o r b i t o 1 Glycerine HDK NZOP/Si 1 ic a Texapon K 1296/Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e Preservatives, f l a v o u r s , pigments

0.50% 19.00 4.30 17.00 50.00 5.70 2.50 q.s.

Add T y l o s e and HDK t o t h e w a t e r w h i l s t s t r r i n g . S t i r i n PEG-8. Add Texapon K1296 c a r e f u l l y ; a v o i d s t r o n g f o a m i n g . Evacuate t h e f i n i s h e d f o r m u l a t i o n f o r a s h o r t p e r i o d . F o r m u l a t i o n 252 AH Toothpaste M a t e r i a1 /CTFA-Index A : Water T y l o s e CB 2OO/Sodium Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e B: HDK N 2 O P / S i l i c a C: Glycerine D : Dentphos K / D i c a l c i u m Phosphate D i h y d r a t e E: M e d i a l a n LD/Sodi um L a u r o y l S a r c o s i n a t e Preservatives, f l a v o u r s , pigments

37.60% 1.30 3.20 15.00 35.00 6.60 q.s.

D i s p e r s e T y l o s e w e l l i n w a t e r and l e t s w e l l . M i x i n HDK and d i s p e r s e w e l l . Add C . S t i r i n D t h o r o u g h l y . M i x i n E s l o w l y (avoid strong foaming). F o r m u l a t i o n 271 AH

SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Miscellaneous

585

Toothpaste Material/CTFA-Index: Water T y l o s e CB POO/Sodium Carboxymethyl HDK N 2OP/Si 1 i c a

A:

Cellulose

8: G l y c e r i n e

43.14% 1 .oo 3.00 8.00

C:

Dentphos K / D i c a l c i u m Phosphate D i h y d r a t e Phoskadent p y r o / T e t r a s o d i u m P y r o p h o s p h a t e Sodium C h l o r i d e

D:

M e d i a l a n LD/Sodium L a u r o v l S a r c o s i n a t e Preservativks, f I a v o u r s , - p i gmenti

21 . o o 0.50 15.00

6.00 q.s.

.

D i s p e r s e T y l o s e w e l l i n w a t e r and l e t swel M i x i n HDK and d i s p e r s e w e l l . Add 8 . S t i r i n C t h o r o u g h Y . M x i n D s l o w l y (avoid s t r o n g foaming). F o r m u l a t i o n 2 7 0 AH Toothpaste Material/CTFA-Index: A : Water T y l o s e CB 200/Sodium Carboxymethyl

Cellulose

B: HDK N 2 0 P / S i l i c a

32.20% 1.00 1.50

C:

Glycerine S o r b i t o 1 70%ig

7.00 15.00

D:

Calcium Carbonate Hostapon KTW neu/Sodium Cocoyl L a u r a t e Preservatives, f l a v o u r s , pigments

38.00

4.00 q.s.

D i s p e r s e T y l o s e w e l l i n w a t e r and l e t s w e l l . M i x i n HDK N20P and d i s p e r s e w e l l . Add C . S t i r i n D t h o r o u g h l y . Temperature s t a b i l i t y : a t 45C o v e r 1 0 weeks. F o r m u l a t i o n 2 7 2 AH

SOURCE: Wacker S i l i c o n e : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

586

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Toothpaste, Foaming I

Chalk Paraffin o i l Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 T o o t h p a s t e aroma

%w/w 32.0 2.0 20.0 1 .o

I1

Texamid 570 Water

1.5 36.0

I1 1 1% I V

2.5

Saccharin s o l u t i o n

1 .o 4.0

Texapon K12 Water F o r m u l a p r e s e r v e d w i t h 0 . 5 - 1 % sodium b e n z o a t e

Preparation: M i x I t o a p a s t e , s w e l l 11, m i x w i t h I11 and add t o I. D i s s o l v e I V , h e a t i n g s l i g h t l y i f n e c e s s a r y and c a r e f u l l y s t i r i t i n t o I.I f t h e f i n i s h e d p a s t e has a smooth s t r u c t u r e , i t i s r o l l e d once and t h e n s t i r r e d i n a vacuum kneader u n t i l an a i r f r e e paste i s obtained. F o r m u l a No. K11-01 Toothpaste, Foaming I

I1

30.0 1 .o

1.2 12.7

Dehydazol A 4 0 0 P Water

111 1 % I V

%w/w 47.5

D i c a l c i u m phosphate Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 T o o t h p a s t e aroma

2.5

Saccharin s o l u t i o n

1 .o 4.1

Texapon K12 Water Formula p r e s e r v e d w i t h 0.5-1%

sod um b e n z o a t e

Preparation: M i x I t o a p a s t e , s w e l l 11, m i x w t h I11 and add t o I. D i s s o l v e I V , h e a t i n g s l i g h t l y and s l o w l y s t i r i t i n t o t h e m i x t u r e . I f t h e f i n i s h e d p a s t e has a smooth s t r u c t u r e , i t i s r o l l e d and t h e n s t i r r e d i n a vacuum kneader u n t i l an a i r f r e e paste i s obtained. F o r m u l a No. Kll-02 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

Miscellaneous

587

Toothpaste, Foaming, with Aerosil 200 I

I1

Chalk A e r o s i l 200 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 Paraffin o i l T o o t h p a s t e aroma Menthol

I11 Dehydazol A400P Water

30.0

2.0 20.0

2.0 1 .o 0.2 1 .o 30.0

I V

1% S a c c h a r i n s o l u t i o n

2.5

V

Texapon K12 Water

1.8 9.5

P r e p a r a t i on : M i x I t o a p a s t e , d i s s o l v e I 1 and add t o I.S w e l l 111, m i x w i t h I V and add t o I. D i s s o l v e V , h e a t i n g s l i g h t l y , and c a r e f u l l y s t i r i t i n t o t h e m i x t u r e . I f t h e f i n i s h e d p a s t e has a smooth s t r u c t u r e , i t i s r o l l e d and t h e n s t i r r e d i n a vacuum kneader u n t i l an a i r f r e e t o o t h p a s t e i s o b t a i n e d . F o r m u l a N o . K11-03 Toothpaste, Foaming, with Aerosil 200 I

I1

Chalk A e r o s i l 200 Henkel G l y c e r i n 86% DAB 9 T o o t h p a s t e aroma

1%

Saccharin s o l u t i o n

111 Dehydazol A400P

Water I V

Texapon K12 Water

30.0 3.5

20.0 1.o

5.0

1 .o 30.0 1.o 8.5

Procedure: M i x I t o a p a s t e , s w e l l 111, m i x w i t h I 1 a n d add t o I . D i s s o l v e I V , h e a t i n g s l i g h t l y , and c a r e f u l l y s t i r i t i n t o t h e m i x t u r e . I f t h e f i n i s h e d p a s t e has a smooth s t r u c t u r e , t h e p a s t e i s r o l l e d once and t h e n d e - a e r a t e d i n a vacuum k n e a d e r . Formula N o . Kll-04 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Cosmetic Model Formulae

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

588

Water-Resistant Sport Tint Veegum U l t r a , and R h o d i g e l p r o v i d e e m u l s i o n s t a b i l i z a t i o n , v i s c o s i t y enhancement, and p i g m e n t s u s p e n s i o n in t h i s 1u x u r i ous, w a t e r - r e s i s t a n t , c o l d p r o c e s s e d , l i q u i d makeup. A d u a l s u n s c r e e n s y s t e m ( o c t y l methoxycinnamate and t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e ) p r o v i d e s p r o t e c t i o n f r o m UV r a d i a t i o n f o r t h e a c t i v e sportswoman. Inaredient : A : Veegum U l t r a (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e ) R h o d i g e l (Xanthan Gum) Dei o n i zed Water P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l

% by W t . * 1.60 0.40 70.40 5.00

B:

I r o n Oxides Manganese V i o l e t Talc T i t a n i um D i o x i d e

0.67 0.10 4.27 6.96

C:

I s o c e t y l Alcohol O c t y l Methoxycinnamate M i n e r a l O i 1 (and) Lanol i n Alcohol O l e t h - 3 Phosphate***

3.00 3.00 2.00

D:

**

PVP**** Preservative, Fragrance

*

** *** ****

2.20 0.40 q.s.

As R e c e i v e d B a s i s R i t a c h o l , R . I . T . A . Corp. C r o d a f o s N-3 N e u t r a l PVP K - 9 0

Procedure: D r y b l e n d Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l and add t o t h e w a t e r w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h a h i g h speed d i s p e r s e r a t 1700 r p m f o r 2 5 m i n u t e s . A d j u s t m i x e r t o 850 rpm and add t h e p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l . B l e n d B i n g r e d i e n t s t h o r o u g h l y and g r i n d i f n e c e s s a r y . S l o w l y add B t o A u n t i l a l l i s added, m i x i n g u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . M i x t o g e t h e r C i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h a p r o p e l l e r s t i r r e r . Add C t o ( A and B ) and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. Add D i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Product C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s : V i s c o s i t y : 1800-2400 c p s * * * * * pH: 6.1+-0.2 *****Measured a f t e r 28 days a g i n g a t room t e m p e r a t u r e u s i n g B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o m e t e r , Model LV, S p i n d l e # 4 a t 60 r p m .

SOURCE: R . T .

V a n d e r b i l t Co.,

I n c . : F o r m u l a No. 453

Section XIV Trade-Named Raw Materials

589

590

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

R A W MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

A b i l AV-20

Phenyl t r i m e t h i c o n e

Go1dschmidt

A b i l AV-2OHS

Phenyl t r i met h i cone

Goldschmidt

Ab11 B 8851

D i meth cone copol yo1

Goldschmidt

A b i l B 8852

D i meth cone copolyol

Goldschmidt

A b i l B 9950

Dimethicone p r o p y l PG-betaine

Go1dschmi d t

A b i l B 88183

D i methi cone copol yo1

Go1dschmi d t

A b i l EM-90

C e t y l dimethicone copolyol

Goldschmidt

A b i l Quat 3272

Quaterni um-80

Go1dschmi d t

A b i l S 201

Dimethicone/sodium p o l y PGp r o p y l dimethicone t h i o s u l f a t e copolymer

Goldschmidt

A b i l Wax 2440

Behenoxy dimethicone

Goldschmidt

A b i l Wax 9000

S t e a r y l dimethicone

Go1dschmi d t

A b i l Wax 9801

C e t y l dimethicone

Goldschmi d t

A b i l Wax 9810

C24-28 a1 k y l methi cone

Go1dschmi d t

A b i l Wax 9814

Cetyl dimethicone

Goldschmidt

Acetul an

Cetyl a c e t a t e (and) a c e t y l a t e d l a n o l i n alcohol

Ame rcho 1

A c r i tamer 934

Carbomer 934

Rita

Acritamer 940

Carbomer 940

Rita

A c r i tamer 941

Carbomer 941

Rita

Acuscrub 50 Acylglutamate CT-12

A1 1ied-

2-Alkyl-N-carboxymethyl-N-

A j inomoto

hydroxyethyl imidazol i n i u m betaine A c y l g l utamate HS-11

Surfactant

A j inomoto

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

591

SOURCE

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Acudyne 255 Ado1 66

Isostearyl alcohol

Sherex

Advantage CP R e s i n

Copolymer

ISP

Advantage V R e s i n

VA/butyl maleate/isobornyl a c r y l a t e copolymer

ISP

Aethoxal B

PPG-5 L a u r e t h - 5

A j i d e w N-50

Sodium PCA

A j inomoto

A j i d e w T-50

Sodium PCA

A j inomoto

Alcolec S

Lecithin

Amer L e c i t h

A1 kamide C-212

Rhone

A1 kamide DC-207/S, A l k a m u l s EGDS, SPS,

DC-212/S,

EGMS,

ss

EGMS/C,

DC-207/S,

GMS,

DC-280/S,

GMS-165,

LE

LVL, MM/M,

A l o e Vera Gel D e c o l o r i z e d 1X

Rhone Rhone Terry

A l p i n e 165-049

Fragrance

Amerchol H - 9

S t e r o l e m u l s i f ie r & s t a b i 1 iz e r

Amerc ho 1

Amerchol L-101

Mineral o i l a1 coho1

Amerchol

Amerlate W

Isopropyl lanolate

Amerchol

A m e r l a t e LFA

Lanolin f a t t y acids

Ame r c h o l

Amerlate P

Isopropyl lanolate

Amerchol

Ameroxol OE-20

01 e t h - 2 0

Amerchol

Amerscreen P-80/20

E t h y l d i h y d r o x y p r o p y l PABA (and) propylene g l y c o l

Amerc ho 1

Amersi 1 DMC-357

Dimethicone copolyol

Amercho 1

Amihope LL

Lauroyl l y s i n e

A j i nomoto

(and) l a n o l i n

592

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

A m i no-Col l a g e n 25

C o l 1agen ami no a c i ds

Maybrook

A m i no-Si 1 k SF

S i l k amino a c i d s

Maybrook

A m i s o f t CS-11

Sodi um c o c o y l g l u t a m a t e

A j inomoto

A m i s o f t CT-12

TEA c o c o y l g l u t a m a t e

A j inomoto

A m i s o f t GS-11

Sodium N - c o c o y l , G1 u t a m a t e

A j i nomoto

A m i s o f t HS-11

Sodium h y d r o g a n a t e d t a l l o w glutamate

A j inomoto

A m i s o f t LS-11

Sodium l a u r o y l g l u t a m a t e

A j inomoto

A M i t e r L-GOD/L-GOD2

Dioctyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate

A j i nomoto

A m i t e r LGS-2/LGS-5

Disteareth-5 glutamate

A j inomoto

Ammonyx CDO

Cocami d o p r o p y l o x i d e

Stepan

Ammonyx KP

Amino o x i d e

Stepan

Ammonyx 4

S t e a r a l konium c h l o r i d e

Stepan

AMP-95

A m i nomethyl p r o p a n o l (95%)

Angus

AMP-Regul a r

A m i nomethyl

Angus

Amphi s o l

DEA-Cetyl

Amphome r

Copolymer

Nat S t a r c h

Amphomer LV-71

Copolymer

Nat S t a r c h

Amphomer 28-4910

Copolymer

Nat S t a r c h

Amphocerin E

M i x t u r e o f f a t t y a l c o h o l and wax e s t e r s

Henkel

Amphocerin K

M i x t u r e o f f a t t y a l c o h o l , wax e s t e r s and m i n e r a l f a t s

Henkel

Amphosol CA

Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e

Stepan

Tallow-L-

lauroyl

propanol

phosphate

G i vaudan

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

593

SOURCE

A n t i f o a m AF E m u l s i o n

Dimethicone

DowCorn

A n t i l HS-60

Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne ( a n d ) glyceryl laurate

Go1 dschmi d t

Antil

1416

PEG-55 p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l o l e a t e

Goldschmidt

Antil

171

PEG-I8 g l y c e r y l o l e a t e / c o c o a t e

Goldschmidt

A n t i l 208

Acrylates/copolymer/glycol

Go1 dschmi d t

A q u a m o l l i n BC

EDTA-sodium s a l t

Hoechst

Aqua-Tein C

Amino a c i d s / a c e t a m i d e MEA/ propylene g l y c o l

Maybrook

Acetamide MEA/MEA-hydrolyzed silk/propylene glycol

Maybrook

Aqua-Tein

S

Arlacel C

IC1

A r l a c e l 60

Sorbitan stearate

IC1

A r l a c e l 80

Sorbitan oleate

IC1

Arlacel

165

G l y c e r y l stearate/PEG-100 stearate

IC1

Arlacel

186

Glyceryl oleate/propylene glycol

IC1

A r l a c e l 989

PEG-7 h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l

IC1

A r l a m o l E & EP

PPG-15 s t e a r y l e t h e r

Armeen DM-18D

D i m e t h y l s t e a r a m i ne

Akzo

A r o s u r f TA-100

D i s t e a r y l dimoni um c h l o r i d e

Sherex

A r o s u r f 66-E2

Surfactant

Sherex

A v i c e l RC 591

M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 in e c e l l u l o s e

FMC

594

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

B a r q u a t CT-429

C e t r i m o n i um c h l o r i d e

Lonza

B e l s i l ADM 6041 E

Amodi meth icone/emu 1s i f ie r

Wacker

B e l s i l ADM 6042 E

Amodimethi cone/emul s i f i e r

Wac ke r

B e l s i l ADM 6056 E

Dimethicone/amodimethicone/ nonoxynol-4/nonoxynol-l4

Wacker

B e l s i l ADM 6057 E

Amodi met h i c o n e / t a l 1owt r i moni um chloride/nonoxnol-10

Wacker

B e l s i l BNP

Boron n i t r i d e

Wacker Wac ke r

B e l s i l CM 020/CM 025/ C y c l o m e t h i c o n e CM 030/CM 040 B e l s i l CM 1000

Cyclomethicone/Dimethiconol

Wacker

B e l s i l DM 0.65/DM 35/ D i m e t h i c o n e DM 100/DM 350

Wac k e r

B e l s i l DM 6600 E

Dimethi cone/Tri deceth-IO

Wacker

B e l s i l DM 10000

Dimethicone

Wacker

B e l s i l DMC 6031

Dimethicone copolyol

Wacker

B e l s i l DMC 6032

Dimethicone copolyol acetate

Wacker

B e l s i l DMC 6033

Dimethicone copolyol acetate

Wacker

B e l s i l DMC 6035

Methicone copolyol acetate

Wacker

B e l s i l DMC 6038

Dimethicone copolyol

Wacker

B e l s i l PDM 2O/PDM 200 Phenyl d i m e t h i c o n e PDM 1 0 0 0

Wacker

B e l s i l SDM 6022

Wacker Dimethicone/stearoxy dimethyl s i l a n e / s t e a oxy d i m e t h y l d i s i l o x a n e

B e l s i l SM 6018

S t e a r y l meth cone

Wac k e r

B e l s i l 350

D i met h icone

Wacker

Benecel MP943PR

Hydroxypropy

methylcellulose

Aqualon

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

595

SOURCE

Bentone EW & 38

G e l l i n g & suspending agent

Rheox

B e r n e l E s t e r DOM

D i o c t y l maleate

Berne

B i enwachs 81 00

Beeswax

Henke

B i o c a r e SA

A l b u m e n. / h-v a l u r o n i c a c i d / d e x t r a n sulfate

B i omi n Se/P/C

Selenium p o l y p e p t i d e s

Brooks

B i o t e r g e AS-40

Sodium C16-18 o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e

Stepan

B r i j 96

01 e t h - I O

IC1

Britol 7

Mineral o i l

Sonneborn

B r o n i d e x L & L5

5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane

Hen k e l

Bronopol

Bactericide

Angus

Brookswax D

Cetearyl alcohol/ceteareth-20

Brooks

B u r s t RSD-10

Dimethicone s i l y l a t e

Hydrolabs

C33-134 Cosmetic B l a c k I r o n o x i d e

Sun

C43-1810 Cosmetic B l u e U l t r a m a r i n e s

Sun

C47-5175 C o s m e t i c W h i t e T i t a n i um d i o x i de

Sun

CAE

PCA e t h y l c o c o y l a r g i n a t e

A j inomoto

Cami l o 1

Alpha-bi sabolol

Maybrook

Capmul 10G-10-0

Polglyceryl-10 decaoleate

Capital

Captex 300

C a p r i c / c a p r y l ic t r ig 1y c e r ides

Capital

C a r b o p o l 934

Carbomer 934

Goodrich

Carbopol 940

Carbomer 940

Goodrich

Carbopol 941

Carbomer 941

Goodrich

596

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

C a r b o p o l 954

Carbomer 954

Goodr c h

C a r b o p o l 980

Carbomer 980

Goodr c h

C a r b o p o l 981

Carbomer 981

Goodr c h

Carbopol

1342

Carbomer 1342

Goodr c h

C a r b o p o l 1382

Carbomer 1382

Goodr c h

Carbopol 2984

Carbomer 2984

Good r c h

C a r b o p o l 5984

Carbomer 5984

Goodr c h Union a r b

Carbowax 200 Carbowax 400

PEG-8

UnionCarb

C a r n a t ion

Mineral o i l

Sonneborn

Carsami de SAL-7

Lauramide DEA

C a r s o n o l ALS

Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

C a r s o q u a t CT 429

C e t r i moni urn c h l o r i d e

Cashmir K-11

Mica/silicon dioxide

C-Base

M i n e r a l o i 1/PEG-30 c e t y l alcohol

C e g e s o f t C24

2-Ethyl hexyl p a l m i t a t e

Hen k e l

C e g e s o f t 17

M y r i s t y l 1a c t a t e

Henkel

C e l l o s i z e QP

Hydroxyethyl c e l l u l o s e

Uni onCarb

C e l l o s i ze 30, O O O H

Hydroxyethyl c e l l u l o s e

Uni onCarb

1a n o l i n /

Lonza

Maybrook

C e l q u a t H-100 & L-200 P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 4

Nat S t a r c h

C e r a p h y l 60

Q u a t e r n i um-22

Van Dyk

C e r a p h y l 65

Q u a t e r n i um-26

Van Dyk

C e r a p h y l 140

Decyl o l e a t e

Van Dyk

C e r a p h y l 424

Myri s t y l myri s t a t e

Van Dyk

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

597

SOURCE

C e r a p h y l 047

Octyldodecyl s t e a r o y l s t e a r a t e

Van Dyk

C e r a s y n t GMS

Glyceryl stearate

Van Dyk

Cerasynt I P

G l y c o l s t e a r a t e SE

Van Dyk

C e r a s y n t SD

Glyceryl stearate, pure

Van Dyk

C e r a s y n t WM

Glyceryl stearate/stearyl alcohol/sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Van Dyk

Cetal

Cetyl alcohol

Amercho 1

Cetiol

Oleyl oleate

Henkel

Cetiol A

Hexyl l a u r a t e

Henkel

Cetiol B

D i b u t y l adi pate

Hen k e l

C e t i o l HE

PEG-7 g l y c e r y l c o c o a t e

Hen k e l

C e t i o l 5600

Oleyl erucate

Henkel

C e t i o l LC

Coco-caprylate/caprate

Hen k e l

C e t i o l MM

Myri s t y 1 myri s t a t e

Hen k e l

Cetiol R

Soya p o l y o l

Henkel

Cetiol S

D i o c t y l c y c l ohexane

Henkel

C e t i o l SB45

Shea b u t t e r

Hen k e l

C e t i o l SN

Cetearyl alcohol isononanoate

Henkel

Cetiol V

Decyl o l e a t e

Henkel

C e t i o l 868

Isooctyl stearate

Henkel

Chel C D

Cyclohexane d i a m i n e t e t r a acetic acid

C i ba-Gei gy

C itroflex-2

Triethyl

Morflex

Clearlan

Lanol i n

Henkel

CMC 7HSSF

C e l l u l o s e gum

Aqualon

citrate

598

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS CMC 7LF/CMC 7MF

SOURCE

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION C e l l u l ose gum

Aqua1 on

Co-Gel1 A-2/0270 C o l l a g e n H y d r o l y z a t e Cosmetic N-55

Mayb r o o k

C o l l a g e n H y d r o l y z a t e Cosmetic 50

Maybroo k

C o l l a g e n KD

GIN

Collagen Native Extra I%

Maybroo k

Cocamide DEA

Henkel

L i no1 eami de DEA

Henkel

Comperlan HS

S t e a r a m i de MEA

Henkel

Comperlan KD

Cocamide DEA

Hen ke 1

Comperlan KM

Cocamide MEA

Henkel

Comperlan LD

Lauramide DEA

Henkel

Comperlan LM

Laurami d e MEA

Henkel

Comperl an LMD

Lauramide DEA

Henkel

Comperlan LP

Lauramide M I P A

Henkel

Comperlan LS

Cocamide DEA/Laureth-2

Hen k e l

Comperlan OD

Oleamide DEA

Henkel

Comperl an UDM

X Undecylenamide MEA

Henkel

Comperl an VOD

Soyamide DEA

Henkel

Comperl an 100

Cocamide MEA

Henkel

Cosmedia Guar C261

Guar h y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m chloride

Henke

Cosmedia Guar U

Guar gum

Henke

Cosmedi a Polymer HSP 1180

Polyacrylamidomethylpropane

Hen ke

Comperl an COD Comperlan

F

sulfonic acid

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

SOURCE

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Cosmowax K

Stearyl alcohol/ceteareth-20

Croda

Cremophor A25

Surfactant

BAS F

Cremophor RD 40

Surfactant

BASF

Cremophor RH 40

PEG-40 H y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l

BASF

Cremophor RH 60

PEG-60 H y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l

BASF

C r o d a f o s N-3 N e u t r a l

DEA-Oleth-3

Croda

C r o d a f o s SG

PPG-5-ceteth

Crodamol PMP

PPG-2-myri s t y 1 e t h e r p r o p i o n a t e Croda

Crodamol PTC

Pentaerythrityl tetracaprate

Croda

Crodawax GP 200

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l /PEG S t e a r a t e

Croda

C r o d e s t a S L 40

Sucrose c o c o a t e

Croda

phosphate

Croda

10

Croda

C r o p e p t i de W C r o t e i n ADW

AMP I s o s t e a r y l h y d r o l y z e d wheat p r o t e i n

Croda

Crotein P

Steartrimonium hydroxyethyl h y d r o 1 y z e d c o l 1agen

Croda

C r o t e i n SPO

Hydrolyzed animal p r o t e i n

Croda

C r o v o l A-70

PEG-60 almond g l y c e r i d e s

Croda

C r o v o l M40

Corn o i l PEG-20 complex

Croda

C u t i n a AGS

Glycol d i stearate

Henkel

C u t i n a BW

Partial glycerides/esters long chain f a t t y acids

c u t na CBS

Mixture

Hen ke 1

c u t na CP/CP-A

Cetyl palmitate

Henkel

c u t na E24

PEG-20-glyceryl

c u t na EGMS

G1 y c o l s t e a r a t e

stearate

599

of

Henkel

Hen ke 1 Hen k e l

600

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

c u t na GMS

Glyceryl stearate

Henkel

c u t na HR

Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i 1

Henkel

c u t na KD16

G1 y c e r y l s t e a r a t e SE

Hen k e l

c u t na LE

G1 y c e r y l s t e a r a t e / s o d i um cetearyl sulfate

Henkel

C u t i n a LM

Mixture o f f a t t y alcohols, waxes, o i l s

Henkel

C u t i na MD/MD-A

Glyceryl stearate

Henkel

C u t i n a TS

PEG-3-di s e a r a t e

Hen k e l

Darvan No. 1

Sodium PO y n a p h t h a l e n e s u l fonate

Vanderbilt

DC3225C

Cyclomethicone/dimethicone

DowCorning

cop01 yo1 Dehydazol-types

C e l l u l o s e gum

Henkel

Dehydol LS2 Deo

Laureth-2

Henkel

Dehydol LS3 Deo

Laureth-3

Henkel

Dehydol LS4 Deo

Laureth-4

Hen k e l

Dehymuls E

Mixed e s t e r e m u l s i f i e r

Hen k e l

Dehymuls F

Mixture o f f a t t y acid esters, f a t t y acid salts & additives

Hen k e l Henkel

Dehymul s HRE-7 Dehymuls K

Mixture

Henkel

Dehymuls LS

Mixture

Hen k e l

Dehymuls SML

S o r b i t a n mono1 a u r a t e

Hen k e l

Dehymuls SMO

S o r b i t a n monool e a t e

Henkel

Dehymuls SMS

S o r b i t a n monostearate

Henkel

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Dehymuls SSO

S o r b i t a n sesqui o l e a t e

Hen k e l

Dehyquart A

C e t r i moni u m c h l o r i d e

Henkel

Dehyquart C c r y s t .

L a u r y l p y r i d i n i um c h l o r i d e

Henkel

D e h y q u a r t DAM

D i s t e a r y l d i m o n i um c h l o r i d e

Hen k e l

Hydroxycetyl hydroxyethyl dimonium c h l o r i d e

Hen ke

D e h y q u a r t LDB

Laura1 konium c h l o r i d e

Hen ke

D e h y q u a r t LT

L a u r y l t r i m e t h y l ammonium chloride

Hen ke

D e h y q u a r t SP

Q u a t e r n i um-52

Henke

Dehyton AB30

C o c o - b e t a i ne

Hen ke

Dehyton G

Cocoamphodiacetate

Hen ke

Dehyton G-SF

Cocoamphodipropionate

Hen ke 1

Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne

Henkel

Dehyquart

Dehyton

E

K

D i c a l c i u m phosphate d i h y d r a t e

Dentphos K D e r m a l c a r e DV-4232, Dermasome

601

E

GMS/SE,

NI

Lecithin/tocopheryl

acetate

ChemMar k

Dermasome SOD

L e c i t h i n / s u p e r o x i de d i m u t a s e

ChemMar k

Desaron

Desamido c o l l a g e n / h y a l u r o n i c acid

GfN

D i a h o l d A-503

AMP-Acrylates

Sandoz

copolymer

Dimethicone Copolyol Resin M o d i f i e r

UnionCarb

D i m e t h i c o n e 350

GE S i 1

D i m e t h i cone Copol yo1 S u r f a c t a n t

Uni onCarb

DME

Dimethyl e s t e r

duPont

Dow 225 F l u i d

Dimethicone

DowCorn

602

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Dowanol DPM

PPG-2 M e t h y l e t h e r

Dow

Dowanol EPh

Phenoxyethanol

Dow

Dow C o r n i n g Q2-3225C, (22-5220

Cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolymer

DowCor n

Dow C o r n i n g 190/193

Dimethicone copolymer

DowCorn

Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d D i m e t h i c o n e

DowCorn

Dow C o r n i n g 245 F l u i d C y c l o m e t h i c o n e 345 F l u i d / 3 4 4 F l u i d

DowCorn

Dow C o r n i n g 556 F l u i d P h e n y l t r i m e t h i c o n e

DowCorn

Dow C o r n i n g 593

Dimethicone/tri methyl s i l o x y silicate

DowCorn

Dow C o r n i n g 929

Emu1 s i on

DowCorn DowCorn

DC-1932 S u r f a c t a n t Q u a t e r n i urn-1 5

Dow

Panthenol/propylene g l y c o l

BASF

Drake01 7 / 9 / 1 0 / 1 9

Mineral o i l

Penreco

DV-3284

Sodi um is e t h i o n a t e

Dymel A

Dimethyl ether

D o w i c i l 200 D-Panthenol

50P

Eastman AQ T r e a t e d Pigment-Red,

Ye1 l o w ,

duPont

Black, White

Eastman

Eastman AQ 3 8 s Polymer/ACl 55s Polymer

Eastman

Eastman V i t a m i n €6-81

Eastman

Vitamin E acetate

Eastman V i t a m i n E TPGS (20%) Egalia EGMS-VA

No. 72075

Eastman

Perfume Glycol stearate

Goldschmidt

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

603

SOURCE

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

E l a s t i n CLR

Hydrolyzed animal e l a s t i n

Hen k e l

Eldew CL-301

Cholesteryl/Behenyl/octyl-

A j inomoto

dodecyl/lauroyl

glutamate

E l e f a c 1-205

Octyldodecyl neopentanoate

Bernel

Emal ex CC-168

Cetyl octanoate

N i hon

Emal ex GIWS330

POE ( 3 0 ) g l y c e r y l t r i i s o stearate

A j inomoto

Emalex GMS-7CAE

G l y c e r y l monostearate

N i hon

Emalex GMS-45RT

G l y c e r y l m o n o s t e a r a t e (HLB5)

N i hon

Emalex S.T.G.-R

Hydrogenated o i l

N i hon

Emalex 6300-DI ST

PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e

N i hon

Emalex 6300 M-ST

PEG-150 m o n o s t e a r a t e

N i hon

Emcol CC-9

Surfactant

Witco

Emcol 4161L

D i s o d i u m cocamido M I P A - s u l f o succinate

W itco

Emersol 132

S t e a r i c a c i d XXX

Henkel

Emersol 871

Isostearic acid

Hen k e l

Emeressence 1160

Phenoxyethanol

Henkel

Emulgade 1000 N i

Cetearyl alcoho /ceteareth-20

Hen k e l

Emulgade A

Cetearyl alcoho /laureth-10

Henkel

Emulgade CL/CL Spec

Mixture

Henkel

Emulgade

F

Mixture

Hen k e l

Emu gade

F Special

C e t e a r y l alcohol/PEG-40 oi1

Emu gade

K

Mixture

Emu gade SE,

83

Castor

Henkel Henkel Hen k e l

604

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

SOURCE

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

E m u l g a t o r E2149

Stearyl alcohol /steareth-7

Go1 dschmi d t

E m u l g a t o r E2155

Stearyl alcohol/steareth-7/ steareth-10

Go1 dschmi d t

Epolene N-34

P o l y e t h y l e n e wax

Eastman

E s c a l o l 507

O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA

Van Dyk

E s c a l o l 567

Benzophenone-3

Van Dyk

Ethomeeen C-25

PEG-1 5 cocami ne

Akzo

Eumu g i n 61

Ceteareth-12

Henkel

Eumu g i n 82

Ceteareth-20

Hen k e l

Eumu g i n 83

Ceteareth-30

Henkel

E u m u l g i n C4

PEG-5-Cocami de

Hen k e l

E u m u l g i n HRE 40

PEG-40 h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l

Hen k e l

E u m u l g i n HRE 60

PEG-60 h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l

Hen k e l

Eumulgin L

PPG-2-ceteareth-9

Henkel

E u m u l g i n M8

Oleth-lO/oleth-5

Hen k e l

E u m u l g i n 05

01 e t h - 5

Henkel

E u m u l g i n 010

Oleth-10

Hen k e l

Eumul g i n R040

PEG-40 c a s t o r o i l

Hen k e l

Eumulgin SML 20

P o l y s o r b a t e 20

Hen k e l

E u m u l g i n SMO 20

P o l y s o r b a t e 80

Henkel

E u m u l g i n SMS 20

P o l y s o r b a t e 60

Henkel

E u m u l g i n 286

Nonoxynol-10

Hen k e l

E u p e r l a n MPK 850

Mixture

Hen k e l

E u p e r l a n PK 771

Pearly gloss concentrate

Hen k e l

E t h a n o l DEB 100

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

605

SOURCE

E u p e r l a n PK 776/ Pearly gloss concentrate PK 789/PK 010/PK 900/PK 3000

Hen ke 1

European E l a s t i n-30

Hydrolyzed e l a s t i n

Mayb r o o k

E u s o l e x 4360

Benzophenone-3

EM I n d u s t

E u s o l e x 6300

M e t h y l b e n z y l i d e n e camphor

EM I n d u s t EM I n d u s t

E u s o l e x 8020 E u t a n o l G,

G16

O c t y l dodecanol

Henkel

E u t a n o l G318

Hen k e l

E x t r a p o n e 3 S p e c i a l 2/789490 Dragoco Complex

Goldschmidt

Extrapon 5 Special

Goldschmidt

F i n s o l v SB

I s o s t e a r y l benzoate

F inetex

F i n s o l v TN

C12-15 a l k y l b e n z o a t e

F inetex

F i toderm

Squal ane

Centerchem

F l e x a n 130

Sodi um p o l y s t y r e n e s u l f a t e

Nat S t a r c h

Hydroxycetyl phosphate

Henkel

Gafquat HS-I 00

Polyquaternium-28

ISP

G a f q u a t 734/755

C a t i o n i c copolymer

ISP

G a f q u a t 755N

Poyquaternium-11

ISP

Forlanit

E

ISP

G a n t r e z A-425 G a n t r e z ES-225

E t h y l e s t e r o f PVM/MA

I SP

G a n t r e z ES425

PVM/MA c o p o l y m e r

ISP

606

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

G a n t r e z V-215 R e s i n

Monoethyl e s t e r

ISP

G a n t r e z V-225 R e s i n

E t h y l e s t e r o f PVM/MA c o p o l y m e r I S P

G a n t r e z V-425 R e s i n

B u t y l e s t e r o f PVM/MA c o p o l y m e r ISP

G a n t r e z XL-80

PVM/MA

Geahl ene

Complex

Gel ami de 250F

Polyacrylamide ( m i l l e d )

Am Cyan

Gel c o

Gelatin

Maybroo k

G e l i t a Sol C

Hydrolyzed c o l l a g e n

Dt.

Genagen CA-050

PEG-5 cocami de

Hoechst

Genagen CAB

Cocamidopropyl

Genamin CTAC

Cet r imoni um c h l o r i de

Hoechst

Genamin DSAC

Distearyldimonium c h l o r i d e

Hoechst

Genapol AMG

Magnesium-PEG-3

Genapol CRT 40

DEA l a u r y l s u l p h a t e

Hoechst

Genapol L-3

Laureth-3

Hoechst

Genapol LRO l i q u i d

Sodi um 1a u r e t h s u l f a t e

Hoechst

Genapol PGL

G l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e / C o c a m i de M E A / PPG-4-Deceth-4

Hoschst

Genapol PGM l i q u i d

Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e / g l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e / c o c a m i d e MEA

Hoechst

Genapol PMS

Glycol d i stearate

Hoechst

Genapol SBE

D i s o d i u m l a u r e t h s u l f o s u c c i n a t e Hoechst

Genapol TS powder

PEG-3 d i s t e a r a t e

Genapol TSM

PEG-3 d i s t e a r a t e / s o d i u m l a u r e t h Hoechst sulfate

decadiene crosspolymer

betaine

ISP

gel

Hoechst

C o c a m i d o s u l f a t e Hoechst

Hoechst

Trade-Named Raw Materials

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

RAW MATERIALS

SOURCE

Genapol UD-030

Undeceth-3

Hoechst

Genapol Z R O l i q u i d

Sodium l a u r e t h su f a t e

Hoechst

Genapol 122

Soya s t e r o l

Henkel

Generol

122E5

PEG5 soya s t e r o l

Hen k e l

Generol

122E10

PEG-10-soya s t e r o

Henkel

Generol 122E16

PEG-16-soya

sterol

Henkel

Generol

PEG-25-soya

sterol

Henkel

122E25

Germaben I I / I I E

Bactericide/fungicide

Sutton

Germall I 1

D i azo1 id i n y l u r e a

Sutton

G e r m a l l 115

I m i d a z o l id i n y l u r e a

Sutton

Geropon AC-78/NP

607

& AS-200 & SBR-3 & T-77

Glucam E-20

Methyl gluceth-20

Glucamate DOE 120

PEG-120 m e t h y l g l u c o s e d i o l e a t e Amerchol

G1 ucamate SSE-2D

PEG-20 m e t h y l g l u c o s e s e s q u i stearate

Amerchol

G l u c a t e DO

Methyl glucose d i o l e a t e

Ame r c ho 1

Methyl glucose sesquistearate

Amercho 1

G1 y d a n t

DMDM h y d a n t o i n

Lonza

G r i 1 1ocose PS

Methyl glucose sesquistearate

Rita

G r i l l o t e n LSE 65K

Sucrose c o c o a t e

Rita

G r i 1 l o t e n LSE 87K

Sucrose c o c o a t e

Rita

G r i l l o t e n PSE 141G

Sucrose c o c o a t e

Rita

Glucate

SS

Amerc ho 1

608

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Hamp-ene Na2

D i s o d i um EDTA

WRGrace

Hamp-ene 220

T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA

WRG r ace

Hamposyl L-30

Fatty acid sarcosi nate

WRGrace

HD-Eutanol

O l e y l a coho1

Henkel

HDK HIB/HDK H20/ HDK N20/HDK N20P

Silica

Wacker

H e s t CSO

Ceteary

Hest E . G . D . S .

EGDS

Heterene

H e s t G-7-TO

Glycereth-7 t r i o c t a n o a t e

Heterene

H e s t GC-7

PEG-7 G l y c e r y l c o c o a t e

Heterene

Hest I S - 2 - 0

Isosteareth-2 octanoate

Heterene

Hest L-2-0

Laureth-2 octanoate

Heterene

Hest MS

Myristyl stearate

Heterene

H e t a i n e CLA

Canolami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne

Heterene

Hetamide MA

A c e t a m i d e MEA

Heterene

Hetamide RC

Cocamide DEA

Heterene

H e t a n SS

Sorbitan stearate

Heterene

H e t e s t e r HCA

Glyceryl t r i a c e t y l stearate

H e t e s t e r HCP

PPG-3 h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l

Heterene

H e t e s t e r PHA

Propylene g l y c o l isoceteth-3 acetate

Heterene

H e t e s t e r PMA

Propylene g l y c o l m y r i s t y l e t h e r Heterene acetate

H e t l a n AC

A c e t y l a t e d 1 a n o l in

Heterene

H e t o l CA

Cetyl alcohol

Heterene

Heterene

octanoate

hydroxy-

Heterene

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

609

SOURCE

H e t o l CS

Cetearyl alcohol

Heterene

Hetoxmate SA-40

PEG-40 s t e a r a t e

Heterene

Hetoxamate SA-100

PEG-100 s t e a r a t e

Heterene

Hetoxamate 100s

PEG-100 s t e a r a t e

Heterene

H e t o x i d e G-7

Glycereth-7

Heterene

H e t o x i de G-26

Glycereth-26

Heterene

Hetoxol D

Cetearyl alcohol/ceteareth-20

Heterene

Hetoxol G

Stearyl alcohol/ceteareth-20

Heterene

H e t o x o l L-2

Laureth-12

Heterene

H e t o x o l L-4

Laureth-4

Heterene

Hetoxol P

Emu1 s i f y i n g wax

Heterene

H e t s o r b L-20

P o l y s o r b a t e 20

Heterene

H e t s o r b L-80

PEG-80 s o r b i t a n l a u r a t e

Heterene

Hi-Care

1000

Hoe S3267

Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e

H o s t a c e r i n CG

81 end

Hoechst

Hostaceri n DGI

P o l y g l yceryl -2 s e s q u i isostearate

Hoec h s t

H o s t a c e r i n DGL

P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-4 l a u r a t e

Hoechst

H o s t a c e r i n DGMS

Polyglyceryl-2-stearate

Hoec h s t

H o s t a c e r i n DGS

P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-4 s t e a r a t e

Hoecsht

H o s t a c e r i n KW340N

T r i c e t e a r e t h - 4 phosphate

Hoechst

H o s t a c e r i n LSE

Sucrose l a u r a t e

Hoechst

H o s t a c e r i n PN 73

Acrylamide/sodium a c r y l a t e

Hoechst

H o s t a c e r i n WO

Mixture

Hoechst

610

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

H o s t a c e r i n WOL

81 end

Hoec h s t

H o s t a p h a t KL340N

T r i l a u r e t h - 4 phosphate

Hoechst

H o s t a p h a t KW340N

T r i c e t e a r e t h - 4 phosphate

Hoechst

Hostapon CT p a s t e

Sodi urn m e t h y l c o c o y l t a u r a t e

Hoec h s t

Hostapon KTW

Sodi urn l a u r o y l t a u r a t e

Hoechst

Hostapon KTW neu

Sodi urn c o c o y l 1a u r a t e

Hoec h s t

Hostapon KCG

Sodi urn c o c o y l g l u t a m a t e

Hoechst

Hostapon LEC

Laureth-3 c a r b o x y l i c a c i d

Hoechst

Hostaoon SCHC

Sodi um c o c o y l h y d r o l y z e d c o l 1agen

Hoechst

Hostapon SCI

Sodium c o c o y l i s e t h i o n a t e

Hoechst

Hostapon S C I D

Sodi urn c o c o y l i s e t h i o n a t e

Hoechst

H o s t a p u r SAS 60

Sodium C14-17 s e c . a l k y l sulfonate

Hoechst Hen k e l

Hydagen CAT Hydagen D E 0

Triethyl

c i trate/BHT

Hydagen P

Diethylene tricaseinamide

Henkel Henkel

H y d r o t r i t i c u m QL/2000 H y d r o l y z e d w h o l e wheat p r o t e i n Hygroderm

"Moi s t u r i z i n g " - F a c t o r

Novarome

H y s t a r CG

H y d r o g e n a t e d s t a r c h h y d r o l y s a t e Lonza

H y s t r e n e 7018

Fatty acids

Witco

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

I g e p a l CO-630

Nonionic s u r f a c t a n t

611

SOURCE Rhone-Poul

I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS B e h e n t r i m o n i u m m e t h o s u l f a t e / cetearyl alcohol

Croda

Xsolan GI34

Polyglyceryl-4

Go1 dschmi d t

I v a r l a n AWS

PPG-12 PEG-65 l a n o l i n o i l

isostearate

Brooks

#IY-67 Fragrance

Novarome

J a g u a r C13S/l4S/ Guar gum C14 COS/C17/Cl62/HP-S/HP-60

H i -Tek

Kathon CG

Fungicide

Rohm&Haas

Kaydol

Mineral o i l

Sonneborn

K e l t r o l /CG-T/G-T/ RD/T

Xanthan gum

Kelco

Kera-Quat WRP

Keratin

Maybrook

K e r a - T e i n AA

K e r a t i n amino a c i d s

Maybroo k Maybrook

K e r a - T e i n 1000/1000SD H y d r o l y z e d k e r a t i n K e r a - T e i n 1000 AS

Ethyl ester o f hydrolyzed keratin

Kessco GMS-SE

Glyceryl stearate

SE

Maybrook Stepan

PEG-150 d i s t e a r a t e

Stepan

Klucel G

Hydroxypropylcellulose

Aqua1 on

K r i s t i n e K/19718

Perfume

Robertet

Kessco PEG 6000

DS

612

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

SOURCE

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

L a c t i1

B1 end

Lamaci t GML-PO

PEG-20 g l y c e r y l

Lamecreme KS/KSM

Glyceryl stearate

Lamecreme LPM

Base f o r o / w - t y p e

Lamepon PA-TR

TEA-abi e t o y l - h y d r o l y z e d p r o t e i n Henkel

Lamepon S

P o t a s s i um c o c o - h y d r o l y z e d a n i mal p r o t e i n

Henkel

Lamepon ST40/S-TR

TEA-Coco-hydrolyzed protein

Henkel

Lamepon UD

Potassium undecylenoyl hydrol y z e d animal p r o t e i n

Lamequat L

C a t i o n i z e d c o l l a g e n h y d r o l y z a t e Henkel

Lamesoft LMG

G l y c e r y l 1 a u r a t e ( a n d ) TEAHenkel coco-hydrolyzed animal p r o t e i n

Lamesoft 156

Hydrogenated t a l l o w g l y c e r i d e s / Henkel TEA-Coco-hydrolyzed a n i m a l p r o t e i n

Lanepene

Complex

L a n e t o AWS

PPG-12,

Laneto-50

PEG-75

Lanette E

Sodi um c e t e a r y l

Goldschmidt laurate

Henkel Henkel

creams,

s/e

animal

PPG-50 1a n o l in

Henkel

Henkel

Rita Rita

1a n o l i n sulfate

Henkel

Cetearyl alcohol/sodium cetearyl sulfate

Henkel

Lanette 0

Cetearyl alcohol

Hen k e l

L a n e t t e SX/W

Cetearyl alcohol/sodium l a u r y l sulfate

Hen k e l

L a n e t t e 14

Myri sty1 alcohol

Hen k e l

L a n e t t e 16

Cetyl alcohol

Henkel

L a n e t t e 18

Stearyl alcohol

Henkel

Lanette

N

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS L a n e t t e 22

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION Behenyl a1 coho1

613

SOURCE Henkel

L a n o l i n USP

Rita

L a n o l i n X-TRA DE0

Rita

Lantrol

Liquid lanolin

Hen k e l

L a n t r o l AWS 1692

PPG-12 PEG-65 l a n o l i n o i l

Henkel

L a n t r o l 1673

Lanolin o i l

Henkel

Lemon P a s s i o n F r u i t Complex

Centerchem

L e x a t e CRC

Stearamidopropyl dimethyl/ glycol stearate/ceteth-2

Inolex

Lexemul EGMS

Glycol stearate

I n o l ex

Lexemul 55/55G/55SE

Glyceryl stearate

I n o l ex

Lexemul 561

G l y c e r y l stearate/PEG-100 stearate

I n o l ex

Lexemul EGMS

Glycol stearate

Inolex

Lexgard M

Methyl paraben

Inolex

P

Propyl paraben

Inolex

Lex01 IPM

Isopropyl myristate

Inolex

L e x o r e z 100

Glyceri n/di ethylene glycol / adipate crosspolymer

I n o l ex

L i p o c o l SC-4

Ceteareth-4

L i po

L i p 0 GMS 450

Glyceryl stearate

L i PO

Lip0 IPP

Isopropyl palmitate

L i po

L i p o n a t e GC

C a p r y l ic / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e

L i po

L i p o n i c EG-1

Glycereth-26

L i po

L i popeg 6000DS

PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e

L i PO

Lexgard

614

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

L i p o - P e p t i d e AME-30

Acetamide MEA/Lauroyl h y d r o l y zed c o l a g e n / g l y c e r i n

Maybroo k

L i p o s o r b P-20

Sorbitan ester

L i PO

Lipowax D

Cetearyl alcohol /ceteareth-20

L i PO

L i g h t Mask 169-119

Fragrance

#LK-40

Novarome

Fragrance

L o c r o n L/P

A1 umi num c h l o r o h y d r a t e

L o v o c r y l 47

OAC-2

Nat S t a r c h

Lunacera M

M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 ine wax

HB F u l l e r

L u v i f l e x VBM 35

PVP/acrylates copolymer

BASF

Luvimer l O O P

A c r y l a t e s copolymer

BASF

L u v i q u a t FC370/ Mono CP

P o l y q u a t e r n i um

BASF

L u v i s e t CAP

V i nyl acetate/crotoni c acid/

Sherex

v i n y l p r o p i onate copolymer L u v i s k o l VA37E/VA37I

Polvinylpyrrolidone

BASF

L u v i s k o l VA64/VA73W/ VAP343 E

P V P / V A copolymer

BASF

Mackalene 116/316/326 426/716

A m i ne s a l t s u r f a c t a n t

McI n t y r e

Mackam CET

Amphoteric s u r f a c t a n t

McI n t y r e

Mackam J

Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne

McI n t y r e

Mackam WGB

Amphoteric s u r f a c t a n t

McI n t y r e

Mackam 2C

D i s o d i um cocamphodi a c e t a t e

McI n t y r e

Mackam 35/35HP

Amphoteric s u r f a c t a n t

McI n t y r e

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Mackamide CMA/LLM/PKM A l k a n o l a m i d e s u r f a c t a n t

Mc I nt y r e

Mackami ne CAO/WGO

McI n t y r e

A m i ne o x i d e s u r f a c t a n t

615

Mackamine DC-50/EL/ Sulfosuccinate surfactant LA/LO-Special/OD-35/OM/OP/WGD

Mc In t y r e

M a c k e r n i um 007

Q u a t e r n a r y ammonium s a l t

McI n t y r e

M a c k e s t e r EGDS/EGMS

Ester

McI n t y r e

Macki ne 301 /601

Mci n t y r e

Mackol 70NS

McI n t y r e

Mackpro C o n d i t i o n e r

M c In t y r e

Mackpro WLW

Mc I n t y r e

M a c k s t a t DM

McI n t y r e

Magnabri t e HV

Magnesi um aluminum s i 1 ic a t e

Am C o l l o i d

M a r i ne-Dew/PC-100

P a r t i a l l y deacetylated chi t i n

A ] inomoto

Mayphos OL3N

DEA-Oleth-3

Maybrook

May T e i n

Sodi um/TEA L a u r y l h y d r o l y z e d keratin

Maybroo k

Maytein C

Potassium cocoyl h y d r o l y z e d c o l 1agen

Maybrook

M a y t e i n CT

TEA-cocoyl

h y d r o 1 yzed c o l 1agen

Maybroo k

M a y t e i n SY

TEA-cocoyl protein

h y d r o l y z e d soy

Maybroo k

Maywax

D

Maywax P Medialan

LD

Phosphate

C e t e a r y l a1 coho1 / c e t e a r e t h - 2 0

Maybrook

E m u l s i f y i n g wax,

Maybroo k

NF

Sodi um 1a u r o y l s a r c o s i n a t e

Men's F r a g r a n c e A62119/794456

Haarman&

Merquat 280

Polymer

Cal gon

Merquat 550

P o l y q u a t e r n i um-7

Cal gon

616

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

M e t h o c e l E4M/40-202

Hydroxypropyl m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e

Mink O i l ,

Dow Arne r c ho 1

M e t h y l Gluceth-PO M i c r o Ace P-2

SOURCE

Talc

Heavy F r a c t i o n / L i g h t

Fraction

M i r a c a r e CT-100/MPC/SCS/XL

Emu1an Rhone

M i r a n o l C2M c o n c .

D i s o d i um cocoamphodi a c e t a t e

Rhone

M i r a n o l C2M Conc. NP

Cocoamphodiacetate

Rhone

M i r a n o l CZM-SF Conc.

Surfactant

Rhone

M i r a n o l DM Conc.(45%) S u r f a c t a n t

Rhone

Lauroamphoglycinate/trideceth

M i r a n o l MHT

Rhone

sulfate M i r a n o l U l t r a C-32, Surface a c t i v e agent M i r a p o l A-15, 133, 550

Rhone

M i r a s h e e n 202

Rhone

M i r a t a i ne BET-C-30,

BET-0-30,

CBC, CBS,

Surfactant COB, TM

Rhone

M o i s t u r i z i n g Liposome Complex Monamate CPA-40

D i s o d i u m cocami do MIPA-su1 f o succinate

Mona

Monamate OPA-30

D i s o d i um o l eami do PEG-2 sul fosucci nate

Mona

Monamid CMA

Cocamide MEA

Mona

Monamid 150 ADD

Mona

Monamid 150LW, 7 1 6

Lauramide DEA

Mona

Monaquat P-TC

Cocami d o p r o p y l PG-di moni um chloride

Mona

Monomuls 90-L 1 2

Glyceryl laurate

Hen k e l

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

SOURCE

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Henkel

Monomu s 90-0 18 M o n a t e r i c CAB

Cocamidopropyl b e t a i ne

Mona

M o n a t e r i c ISA-35

Sodium I s o s t e a r o a m p h o p r o p io n a t e

Mona Mona

Monateric ll00M M-Quat 50-50

01 ea1 k o n i um c h l o r i d e

PPG Rhone

M u l g o f e n ON-870 Myvatex T e x t u r e L i t e , Myvatex 60

Emulsifier

M y v e r o l 18-06

H y d r o g e n a t e d soy g l y c e r i d e

Eastman

M y r i t o l 318

Capryl i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e

Henkel

Nat S t a r c h

Nadex 360 Nasuna B

PVP/Va c o p o l y m e r

Henkel

N a t r o s o l 250 HHR/ 250 HHX/250 HR

Hydroxyethyl c e l l u l o s e

Aqualon

N a t u r e Chem CR

Cetyl r i c i n o l e a t e

CasChem

N a t u r e Chem OHS

Octyl hydroxystearate

CasChem

N a t u r a l E x t r a c t DP

T r i m e t h y l g l y c i ne

Rita

N a t u r e ' s H e r b a l #165-050 F r a g r a n c e Caprylic/capric

Neo-He1 iopan AV

O c t y l methoxycinnamate

Haa r ma n

Neo-He1 iopan BB

Benzophenone-3

Haarman

Neo-Heliopan

I s o a m y l p-methoxycinnamate

Haarman

E1000

Neo-PC1 Water S o l u b l e Trideceth-S/PEG-3

triglyceride

S t epan

Neobee M-5

N-Hance

617

octanoate

Guar h y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i moni um chloride

Dragoco Aqua1 on

618

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

N i k k o l MYS-55

PEG-55 s t e a r a t e

N i kko

N i k k o l TL-10

P o l y s o r b a t e 20

N i kko

N i k k o l WC8 Nipastat

N i kko M i c r o b i o c i de

N ipa

Novarome Tuberose MG-02 Novata Types

Cocoglycerides

Henke

Novi 11 e #24093/

Fragrance

Novi 1 e

#27986/#28819/#31337/#31563/#84504 N u t r i l a n H/I/I-SO/L

Protein p a r t i a l hydrolyzate, sodium s a l t

Hen ke

Octopi r o x

P i r o c t o n e ol ami n e

Hoechst

OH1 an

H y d r o g e n a t e d l a n o l in

Amerchol

Olamin K

Prep o f h y d r o g e n p e r o x i d e f i x a t i v e s f o r c o l d waves

Henkel

Omadi ne

Zinc pyrithione,

Olin

48%

O r g a s o l 2002D E x t r a N a t u r a l Cos: Nylon-12

Atochem

Ottasept Extra

Ferro

Bactericide,

f u n g i c i c i de

O z o k e r i t e Wax JH1680

Ross

O z o k e r i t e Wax #E71 Beaded

Ross

Panthenol

Tri-K

Paragon I 1

Preservative

M c In t y r e

P a r s o l MCX

O c t y l methoxycinnamate

G i vaudan

Pationic ISL

Na I s o s t e a r o y l l a c t y l a t e

Rita

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N lactylate

619

SOURCE

Rita

P a t i o n i c SSL

Sodi um s t e a r o y l

P a t io n i c 138C

Sodi um 1a u r o y l 1a c t y l a t e

Rita

Patlac I L

Isostearyl lactylate

Rita

P a t l a c LA

L a c t i c acid-88%

Rita

P a t l a c NAL

Sodi um l a c t a t e

Rita

Peach F l o r a l 92F/3235

Fragrance

FragResourc

Pecogel H-12

PVP/Polycarbamyl ester

Pecosi 1 CAP-1240

S i l i c o n e quaternium-9

Phoenix

P e c o s i 1 RS-100

Dimethicone c o p o l y o l phosphate

Phoenix

Pecosi 1 SMQ-40

S i 1 i c o n e q u a t e r n i um-5

Phoenix

Pecosi 1 SPB-1240

S i l i c o n e quaternium-6

Phoen

P e c o s i l SSP

H y d r o l y z e d soy p r o t e i n / D C P copolymer

Phoen

Pecosi 1 SWP-83/ SWPQ- 40

H y d r o l y z e d wheat p r o t e i n / Phoen Dimethicone c o p o l y o l phosphate

Pecosi 1 WDS-100/ WDS-200

D i m e t h i cone c o p o l y o l p h o s p h a t e

polyglycol

Phoenix

Phoenix Henkel

PEG-75 L a n o l i n P e l a n AC

Cetyl acetate/acetylated l a n o l i n alcohol

Phoenix

Pelemol BB

Eiehenyl b e h e n a t e

Phoenix

Pelemol D I A

D i is o p r o p y l a d i p a t e

Phoenix

Pelemol EE

Eicosyl erucate

Phoenix

Pelemol GMS

Glyceryl stearate

Phoenix

Pelemol GS

Glyceryl stearate

Phoenix

Pelemol GTB

G1 y c e r y l t r i b e h e n a t e

Phoenix

620

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

SOURCE

Pelemol G7A

Glycereth-7 t r i a c e t a t e

Phoen

Pelemol ICB

I s o c e t e t h behenate

Phoen

Pelemol I S B

I s o s t e a r y l behenate

Phoen

Pelemol I S L

Isostearyl lactate

Phoen

Pelemol OP

Octyl palmitate

Phoen

Pelemol OPG

Octyl pelargonate

Phoen

Pelemol SPO

C e t y l / s t e a r y l octanoate

Phoen

Pelemol 8 9

O c t y l Isononanoate

Phoen

Pelemol 2022

Octyldodecyl behenate

Phoenix

P e l o x P3M

Phoenix

Pemulen TR-l/TR-2

A c r y l a t e s / C l O - 3 0 a1 k y l a c r y l a t e crosspolymer

BFGoodrich

P e r m e t h y l 101A/102A

Isoeicosane/Isoostahexacontane

Presperse

P e r m u l g i n 3510

Beeswax/vaseline

KosterKeun

P e r m u l g i n 4200

M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 ine wax

KosterKeun

Phoenoni p

Phenoxyethanol/etc.

N i pa

Phoenamid CD

Cocamide DEA

Phoenix

Phoenami d e LD

Laurami d e DEA

Phoenix

Phoenate SLES-70

Sodi um 1a u r e t h s u l f a t e

Phoenix

Phoenate 3DSA

PEG-3 d i s t e a r a t e

Phoenix

Phoenate 200 DL

PEG-4 d i l a u r a t e

Phoenix

P h o e n a t r i c CAB

Cocamidopropyl b e t a i n e

Phoenix

Phoenoxide STA-2

Steareth-2

Phoenix

Phoenoxi de STA-100

Steareth-100

Phoenix

Phoenoxol T

Cetearyl alcohol/ceteareth-20

Phoenix

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS Phosphol ip i d EFA Phosphol ip i d SV P h y t e l e n e Complex EGX-243/EGX-244

SOURCE

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION L i no1 ami d o p r o p y l PG-di moni um c h l o r i d e phosphate

621

Mona Mona

Complex c h a m i c a l

P l a n t a r e n 2000

Henkel

P l a n t a r e n PS 10/2000/2000

Hen k e l

VP

PNC 400

Sodium carbomer

3v

P o l awax

E m u l s i f y i n g wax, NF

Croda

P o l y c a r e 133 P o l y d i o l 400

Henkel

Polymer JRBOM

Uni onCarb

Polymer JR400/LR400

Polyquaternium-10

Amercho 1

PO1 OX WSR-3000

PEG- 14M

Uni onCarb

P o l y q u a r t HE1

PEG-15 Coco p o l y a m i n e

Henkel

P o l y q u t a 3000

P o l y q u a t e r n i um-10

Rita

P o l y v i o l W25/140

Polyvinyl alcohol

P o l awax

E m u l s i f y i n g wax

NF

Croda

PPG-10 C e t y l E t h e r

Croda

PPG-10 M e t h y l G l u c o s e E t h e r

Amerc ho 1

P r i s o r i ne GTIS

Glycerol t r ii sostearate

Uni chema

P r o c e t y l 10

PPG-10 c e t y l e t h e r

Croda

P r o c o l OA-10

01 e t h - 1 0

Protameen

Prodew 100

Sorbi tol/sodium l a c t a t e / e t c .

A j inomoto

Prodew 300

Sodium l a c t a t e / s o d i u m PCA/etc

A j inomoto

622

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

SOURCE

P r o d u c t SE-100

G l y c e r y l stearate/PEG-100 stearate

Heterene

Promois ECP

Col 1agen

Rita

Promulgen D

Cetearyl alcohol/ceteareth-20

Arne r c ho 1

Promulgen G

Stearyl alcohol/ceteareth-20

Ame r c ho 1

Propal

Isopropyl palmitate

Amerchol Dragoco

P r o s o l a l S9 Protachem SMO

S o r b i t a n 01 e a t e

Protameen

P r o t a s o r b L-20

P o l y s o r b a t e 20

Protameen

P r o t a s o r b 0-20

P o l y s o r b a t e 80

Protameen

P r o - T e i n ES-20

Ethyl e s t e r o f hydrolyzed c o l 1agen

Maybrook

P r o t o - L a n 4R

Cocoyl h y d r o l y z e d c o l l a g e n / e t c

Maybrook

Proto-Lan 8

Lecithin/etc.

Maybrook

P r o t o - L a n 30

P r o p y l ene g l y c o l / e t c

I

Maybrook

Pur-Cel 1 in L i q u i d / S o l i d

Dragoco

PVP K-GO/PVP

K-30

ISP

PVP/VA Copolymer

ISP

P y o c i d e 5192

Insecticide concentrate

MG K

P y r o t e r CPI-40

PEG-40 h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l PCA i s o s t e a r a t e

A j inomoto

PVP/VA

K-SO/PVP

E335/E535/€735

P y r o t e r GPI-25

A j i nomoto

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Quat-Pro

E

T r i e t h o n i u m h y d r o l y z e d c o l l a g e n Maybrook ethosulfate

Quat-Pro

S/S30

Stearyltrimonium hydroxy e t h y l h y d r o 1 y z e d c o l 1agen

Maybrook

Mineral o i l i n g e l a t i n microcapsules

RT Dodge

Red & B l u e Nuggets

623

Resyn 26-1314

Nat S t a r c h

Resyn 28-2913

Nat S t a r c h

Resyn 28-2930

Nat S t a r c h

Rewolan AWS

PEG-75 L a n o l i n o i l

Rhodacal A-246L

Rhone

Rhodacal A246LX

Rhone

Rhodacal DDB-40

Rhone

Rhodafac RS 610

Rhone

Rhodapex ESY

Rhone

Rhodapex MA360

Rhone

Rhodapex NA61

Rhone

Rhodapon ESY

Rhone

Rhodapon L-22 HNC

Rhone

Rhodapon LSB

Rhone

Rhodapon LT-6

Rhone

Rhodapon SI3 8208s

Rhone

Rhodaquat M242B/99

Rhone

Rhodaquat M270C/18

Rhone

624

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

SOURCE Rhone

Rhodaquat 7LVF Rhodi g e l

Xanthan gum

R h o d i g e l E2

Xanthan gum

R i l a n i t GMO

G1 y c e r y l o l e a t e

Henkel

R i l a n i t GMRO

Glyceryl ricinoleate

Henkel

R i t a CA

Cetyl alcohol

Rita Rita

R i t a Cetearyl Alcohol R itachol

Mineral o i l / l a n o l i n alcohol

Rita

R i t a c h o l 2000/5000

R.I.T.A.

blend

Rita

R i taderm

R I. T .A . b 1end

Rita

R i t a EGDS

Glycol d i stearate

Rita

R i t a GMS

G1 y c e r o l m o n o s t e a r a t e

Rita

R i t a IPM

Isopropyl myristate

Rita

Ritalan

Lanolin o i l

Rita

Ritalan C

Isopropyl palmitate/lanolin o i l R i t a

R i t a l o e 200M

Aloe vera gel

Rita

Ritamide C

Cocamide DEA

Rita

Ritapan D

d-panthenol

Rita

R i t a p a n DL

dl-pantheno

Rita

R i t a PEO-1

PEG-5M

Rita

R i t a PEO-2

PEG-9M p o l y t h y l e n e o x i d e

Rita

R i t a p e g 150 DS

PEG-1 50 d i s t e a r a t e

Rita

R i taphenone-3

Benzophenone-3

Rita

R i t a p 1 ast/5OW

M i n e r a l o i 1/ p o l y e t h y l e n e

Rita

.

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

SOURCE

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N blend

Ait a

R i t a p r o 100/165

R.I.T.A.

R i t a p r o 300

Cetearyl alcohol/ceteareth-20

Rita

R i t a SA

Stearyl alcohol

Rita

Ritasynt I P

R.I.T.A.

Rita

Ritavena 5

Hydrolyzed oat f l o u r

Rita

R i t a w a x ALA

R.I.T.A.

Rita

Ritawax 15

Laneth-15

Robane

Squalane,

Rovisone ACE

Vitamin blend

blend

blend

625

Rita NF Rita

Sandopan LS-24 Satin Finish

Complex

SF 18 ( 3 5 0 ) S i l i c o n e F l u i d : D i m e t h i c o n e

Dow Corn

Shampoo F r a g r a n c e A62120/794457

Haarman

Shebu R e f i n e d

Shea b u t t e r

Rita

Shebu WS

PEG-50 shea b u t t e r

Rita

S h e l l a c Wax MHP105 S h e l l s o l D70

MHPShellac

DO Petroleum d i s t i l l a t e s

She1 1

S i l b i o n e 70047 V300/70646/71634 S i l i c o n e SF-1173

GE S i l i c o n e

S i l i c o n e 566 F l u i d

DowCorn

S i 1k P r o - T e i n

H y d r o l y z e d s i 1k

S i 1t e c h

S i 1wax WD-F/WS-L S i mchi n Ref ined

Maybroo k

Jojoba o i l

Rita

626

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL

DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

S i p o n ES-2

Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

Rhone

S i p o n ESY

Sodium l a u r e t h - 1

Rhone

S o l u l an L-575/75

PEG-75 1a n o l i n

Ame r c ho 1

S o l u l a n 98

Polysorbate 80/cetyl acetate/ acetylated l a n o l i n alcohol

Ame r c ho 1

Sorbo

S o r b i t o 1 , 70%

IC1

Cocodimonium h y d r o x y p r o p y l h y d r o l y z e d soy p r o t e i n

Maybrook

S o y - T e i n NL

H y d r o l y z e d soy p r o t e i n

Maybr oo k

Span 80

Sorbitan oleate

IC1

Spheron P-1500

Silica

Standamid KD

Cocamide DEA

Hen k e l

Standamul 1616

Cetyl palmitate

Henkel

Standapol A

Ammonium l a u r y l s u l a t e

Henkel

S t a n d a p o l EA-2

Ammonium l a u r e t h su f a t e

Hen k e l

S t a n d a p o l EA-3

Ammonium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e (27%)

Henkel

S t a n d a p o l ES-2

Sodium l a u r e t h - 2 s u l f a t e

Hen k e l

S t a n d a p o l ES-3

Sodium l a u r e t h - 3 s u l f a t e

Henkel

Standapol T

TEA l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Hen k e l

S t a n d a p o l WAQ Spec.

Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Henkel

Stearal

Stearyl alcohol

Amerc ho 1

Stepanhold E x t r a

Hai r s p r a y r e s i n

Stepan

S t e p a n h o l d R-1

Hai r s p r a y r e s i n

Stepan

S t e p a n o l AM

Ammoni um 1a u r y l s u l f a t e

Stepan

S t e p a n o l WAT

TEA l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Stepan

Soy-Quat

C

sulfate

Trade-Named Raw Materials

R A W MATERIALS Ster-0-Pro

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

627

SOURCE QO

Oat f l o u r

Sufadone LP-300

ISP

S u l f o p a n 101/ 101 s p e c . / l 0 3

S o d i um 1a u r y l s u l f a t e

Henkel

Sunarome UVA

Menthyl a n t h r a n i l a t e

Felton

S u n b u r s t 94F/2197

Fragrance

S u n f l o w e r F r a g r a n c e 12294

Chemi a

Super S a t AWS-4

Rita

PEG-24 h y d r o g e n a t e d l a n o l i n

Super S o l a n F l a k e d

Croda

Supro-Tein S

Sodium c o c o y l h y d r o l y z e d soy protei n/sorbi t o 1

Maybrook

Suoro-Tein V

TEA-cocoyl-hydrolyzed sorbi t o 1

Maybrook

Suttocide A

Sodium h y d r o x y m e t h y l g l y c i n a t e

Sutton

Syncrowax HR-C

G l y c e r y l t r i behenate

Croda

S y n t a s e 230

UV a b s o r b e r

N e v i 11 e

S y n t h e t i c Beeswax JH- 508

collagen/

628

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

SOURCE

Tagat I 2

PEG-20 g l y c e r y l i s o s t e a r a t e

Goldschmidt

Tagat L

PEG-30 g l y c e r y l

Goldschmidt

Tagat S

PEG-30 g l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e

Goldschmidt

T a g a t TO

PEG-25 g l y c e r y l t r i o l e a t e

Go1 dschmi d t

T e f o s e 2561

PEG-6 s t e a r a t e / g l y c e r y l ate/ceteth-20

Gattefosse

Tegamine O x i d e WS35

Cocami d o p r o p y l ami ne o x i d e

Goldschmidt

Tegi n

G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e SE

Goldschmidt

Tegi naci d

Glyceryl stearate/ceteareth-20

Goldschmidt

Teginacid H

Glyceryl stearate/ceteth-20

Goldschmidt

Tego B e t a i n e F/F50

Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne

Go1 dschmi d t

Tego B e t a ne HS

Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e / glyceryl laurate

Go1 dschmi d t

Tego B e t a n e L-7

Cocamidopropyl b e t a i n e

Go1 dschmi d t

Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e / e t c .

Goldschmidt

Tego P e a r l N l O O

Glycol di stearate/steareth-4

Go1 dschmi d t

T e g o s o f t CT

Capryl i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e s

Goldschmidt

T e g o s o f t EE

Octyl octanoate

Go1 dschmi d t

T e g o s o f t GC

PEG-7 g l y c e r y l c o c o a t e

Goldschmidt

Tegosoft M

Isopropyl myristate

Goldschmidt

T e g o s o f t OP

Octyl palmitate

Goldschmidt

T e g o s o f t OS

Octyl stearate

Go1dschmi d t

Tegosoft P

Isopropyl palmitate

Goldschmidt

T e g o s o f t SH

S t e a r y l heptanoate

Goldschmidt

T e g o s o f t 189

Isooctadecyl isononanoate

Goldschmidt

Tego Pear

8-48

laurate

stear-

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

629

SOURCE

T e r g i t o l NP-10

Surfactant

Uni onCarb

Texamid t y p e s

Sodium a l g i n a t e s

Henkel

T e x a p o l LS lOOF

Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Henkel

Texapon A/ALS

Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Henkel

Texapon ASV ASV 70 S p e c i a l

Mixture o f special f a t t y alcohol ether sulfates

Henkel

Texapon CS P a s t e

Mixture o f f a t t y alcohol sulfates

Henkel

Texapon EVR

Sodium l a u r y l e t h e r s u l f a t e w i t h special additives

Henkel

Texapon IES

MIPA-laureth sulfate/cocamide DEA

Henkel

Texapon K12 g r a n u l e s Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e (C12) K12 n e e d l e s / K 1 2 powder

Henkel

Texapon K14S spec.

Sodium l a u r y l m y r i s t y l e t h e r sulfate

Henkel

Texapon K1296

Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e ,

Henkel

Texapon LS n e e d l e s

Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Henkel

Texapon M

Monoethanolamine l a u r y l e t h e r sulfate

Henkel

Texapon MG

Magnesium l a u r y l e t h e r s u l f a t e Henkel

Texapon MGS

Magnesium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Henkel

TexaDon MLS

Monoethanol ammoni um l a u r y l sulfate

Henkel

Texapon NA

Ammonium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

Hen k e l

Texapon N25/N40

Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

Henkel

Texapon N70/N70LS N103/NSO

Sodium l a u r y l e t h e r s u l f a t e

Henkel

pure

630

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

R A W MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Texapon NT

TEA-laureth s u l f a t e

Hen k e l

Texapon OT n e e d l e s

Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Henkel

Texapon SB3

D i s o d i um l a u r e t h s u l f o s u c c i n a t e Henkel

Texapon SBN

Sodi urn 1a u r e t h s u l f a t e / d i sodium Henkel 1a u r e t h s u l f o s u c c i n a t e

Texapon SG

Sodium l a u r y l e t h e r s u l f a t e with special additives

Hen ke

Texapon T42/TH

TEA l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Henke

Texapon V

Sodi um 1a u r y l s u l f a t e

Henkel

Texapon WW99

MIPA-laureth s u l fate/cocamide DEA

Hen k e l

Texapon 2

Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Hen k e l

Timeron MP-lOOl/SI

Titanium dioxide/mica

Timeron Super Copper M i c a / T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e Super Gold/Super R e d / P e a r l W h i t e T i o v e i 1 AQ/AQ-G

Ti02 dispersed

T i o x i de

T i o v e i l OP

Octyl palmitate/titanium d i o x i de

T i o x i de

T i o v e i l TG

Ti02 dispersed

T i o x i de

TL-10

PEG-20 s o r b i t a n m o n o l a u r a t e

Trideceth-S/PEG-40

Hydrogenated Castor O i l

Dragoco

T r i s Amino

T r i s ( h y d r o x y m e t h y l ) aminomethane

Angus

T r i t o n A-100/X-100

Surfactant

Rohm

T r i t o n 2-100

Octoxynol-9

Rohm

T u r p i n a l SL

Etidronic acid

Henkel

T u r p i n a l 4NL

Tetrasodium e t i d r o n a t e

Henkel

Trade-Named Raw Materials

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Tween 20

P o l y s o r b a t e 20

IC1

Tween 60

P o l y s o r b a t e 60

IC1

Tween 80

P o l y s o r b a t e 80

IC1

T y l o s e CB 200/H4000P

Sodium c a r b o x y m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e

Hoechst

#U-9257

631

ShawMudge

Fragrance

Ultraho d Strong

Copolymer

BAS F

Ultraho d 8

A c r y l a t e / a c r y l a m i d e copolymer

BASF

U n i c i d e 4-13

Imidazolidinyl urea

U n i p h e n P-23

Complex

Uni p h e r o l U-14

Complex

U n i s t a b S-69

T r i methyl dodecatri enol

Uni t r i e n o l T-27

Farnesyl acetate/farnesol/ p a n t h e n y l t r ia c e t a t e Presperse

U V - T i t a n M212/M262 U v i n u l M-40

Benzophenone-3

BASF

U v i n u l MS-40

Benzophenone-4

BASF

U v i n u l 0-18

Octyl s a l i c y l a t e

BAS F

Vancl ay

Kaol i n

Vanderbilt

Vanlube PCX

BHT

Vanderbilt

Vanseal CS

Cocoyl s a r c o s i n e

Vanderbilt

Vanseal LS

Lauroyl sarcosine

Vanderbi I t

V a r i o n CADG

Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne

Sherex

632

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

SOURCE

Varionic LI-67

PEG-78 g l y c e r y l c o c o a t e

Sherex

V a r i s o f t TC-90

Concentrate

Sherex

Veegum/F/HS/HV/K/ P1 us/U1 t r a

Magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1 i c a t e

V a n d e r b i 1t

V e g e t o l LP

Propylene g l y c o l / y e a s t

Gattefosse

Vel v e t e x BA-35

Cocami d o p r o p y l b e t a i ne

Versene-EDTA/100

C h e l a t i n g agent

Dow

Versenex 80

Pentasodium p e n t e t a t e

Dow

extract

V i g i l a n AWS

Fanning

V i s c o s o n t r a n HEC Types

Hydroxyethylcellulose/ highly purified

Henkel

V i s c o n s t r a n MC Types

Methyl c e l l u l o s e , p u r if ied

Henkel

highly

V i s c o n t r a n MHPC Types M e t h y l h y d r o x y p r o p y l c e l l u l o s e , Henkel highly purified Vitamin E

Tocopherol a c e t a t e

Rita

Wheat-Te n NL

H y d r o l y z e d wheat p r o t e n

May b r oo k

W i c k e n o l 161/163

CasChem

W i c k e n o l 171

Octyl hydroxystearate

CasChem

W i t c a m i de 51 1C

Oleamide DEA

Witco

W i t c a m i de 6519

Laurami d e DEA

Witco

W i t c o n o l APM

Nonionic s u r f a c t a n t

Witco

Z i n c Omadine

Z i n c p y r i t h i o n e (48%)

01 i n

Zincum N29

Hen ke 1

80/20 B r a d p r i d e Soap Base

Bradford

Section XV Suppliers' Addresses

633

634

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

A j i n o m o t o USA, I n c . Glenpoint C t r , W 500 F r a n k W . B u r r B l v d . Teaneck, NJ 07645 (201)-907-3244 Akzo C h e m i c a l s , I n c . 300 S . R i v e r s i d e P l a z a C h i c a g o , I L 60606

BASF C o r p . 100 C h e r r y H i l l Rd. P a r s i p p a n y , N J 07054

(201)-316-3000/(800)-526-1072 B e r n e l Chemical C o . , 174 Grand Ave. Englewood, NJ 07631 (201)-569-8934

Inc.

(312)-906-7500/(800)-257-8292 A1 1 i e d - S i g n a l , I n c . P.O. Box 2332R M o r r i s t o w n , NJ 07962

Brooks I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . 70 T y l e r P l a c e S o u t h P l a i n f i e l d , N J 07080 (908)-561-5200

(201)-355-2000/(800)-526-0717 Amerchol C o r p . P.O. Box 4051 136 Talmadge Rd. E d i s o n , N J 08818 (908)-248-6000 A m e r i c a n C o l l o i d Co. 1500 W . S h u r e Rd. A r l i n g t o n H e i g h t s , I L 60004 (708)-392-4600 A m e r i c a n L e c i t h i n Co. 33 T u r n e r Rd. P . O . Box 1908 Danbury, CT 06813 (203)-790-2700 Angus Chemical Co. 1500 E . Lake Cook Rd. B u f f a l o G r o v e , I L 60089

(708)-215-8600/(800)-323-6209 Aqualon 1313 N . M a r k e t S t . W i l m i n g t o n , DE 19899

(302)-594-5000/(800)-345-8104 Atochem N o r t h A m e r i c a 900 M i l k S t . C a r t a r e t , NJ 07008 (908)-541-4414

C a l gon Chemical C o r p . P.O. Box 717 P i t t s b u r g h , PA 15230

(412)-787-6700/(800)-422-7266 C a p i t a l C i t y P r o d u c t s Co. 525 W . F i r s t Ave. Columbus, OH 43216

(614)-299-3131/(800)-848-1340 CasChem, I n c . 40 Avenue A Bayonne, N J 07002

(201)-858-7900/(800)-CAS-CHEM Centerchem, I n c . 225 H i g h R i d g e Rd. S t a m f o r d , CT 06905 (203)-975-9800 Chemia C o r p . 631 L e f f i ngwel 1 Ave. S t . L o u i s , M O 63122 (8001-726-1976 ChemMark Development 70 T y l e r P1. S o u t h P l a i n f i e l d , N J 07080 (908)-412-6192

C i ba-Gei gy C o r p . 410 Swing Rd. G r e e n s b o r o , NC 27419

(919)-632-7327/(800)-221-0453

Suppliers' Addresses

Croda, I n c . 7 Century D r . P a r s i p p a n y , NJ 07054

F e l t o n Worldwide

599 Johnson Ave. B r o o k l y n , NY 11237

(201)-644-4900 R . T . Dodge Co. 55 Westpark Rd. Dayton, OH 45459

F e r r o Corp. 7050 K r i c k Rd. W a l t o n H i l l s , OH 44146

(216)-641-8580

(51 3) -439-4497 Finetex, Dow Chemical USA 2020 Dow C e n t e r M i d l a n d , M I 48674 (800)-258-CHEM

Elmwood P a r k ,

NJ 07407

(201 ) -797-4686 FMC Corp

Dow C o r n i n g C o r p . Box 0994 M i d l a n d , M I 48686

Inc.

418 Falmouth Ave.

.

1735 M a r k e t S t . Philadelphia,

PA

19103

(215)-299-6000

(517)-496-4000 F r a g r a n c e Resources, Dragoco, I n c . 1 0 Garden D r i v e Totowa, NJ 07512

Inc.

275 C l a r k S t . K e y p o r t , NJ 07735 (908)-264-6767

(201)-256-3850 H.B.

duPont 1007 M a r k e t S t . W i l m i n g t o n , DE 19898 ( 8 0 0 ) -441 -751 5 Eastman Chemical P . 0 . B o x 431 K i n g s p o r t , TN 37662

3530 St.

F u l l e r Co. L e x i n g t o n Ave. P a u l , MN 55126 N.

(612)-481-1816/(800)-468-6358 Gattefosse Corp. 189 K i nderkamack Rd. Westwood, NJ 07675

(201)-573-1700

(615)-229-4006/(800) .EASTMAN Emulan, I n c . P . O . Box 5 8 2 Kenosha, W I 53141

GE S i 1 i c o n e s 260 Hudson R i v e r Rd. W a t e r f o r d , NY 12188

(518)-237-3330/(800)-255-8886

(414)-654-0734 EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . 5 Skyline Drive Hawthorne, NY 10532

Givaudan-Roure C o r p . 100 Delawanna Ave. C l i f t o n , NJ 07015

(201)-365-8000

(914)-592-4660 Fanni ng C o r p , 2450 W . Hubbard St Chicago, I L 60612

(312)-563-1234

Go1 dschmi d t Chemical Corp. 914 E . Randolph Rd. H o p e w e l l , V A 23860

(804)-541-8658/(800)-445-1809

635

636

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

B . F . G o o d r i c h Co. 9911 E. Randolph Rd. H o p e w e l l , V A 23860 (216)-447-5000/(800)-331-1144

I n t e r n a t i o n a l S p e c i a l t y Products 1361 A l p s Rd. Wayne, NJ 07470 (201)-628-3000/(800)-848-7659

W . R . G r a c e & Co. 55 Hayden Ave. L e x i n g t o n , MA 02173 (617)-861-6600/(800)-354-5414

Kelco D i v . Merck & Co., I n c . 8355 A e r o D r i v e San D i e g o , C A 92123 (619)-292-4900/(800)-535-2656

Haarman & Reimer C o r p . 60 Diamond Rd. S p r i n g f i e l d , N J 07091 (201)-912-5707/(800)-432-1559 Henkel C o r p . 11501 N o r t h l a k e D r . C i n c i n n a t i , OH 45299

(513)-530-7300/(800)-543-7370 H e t e r e n e Chemical C o . , 295 V r e e l a n d P.O.Box 247 P a t e r s o n , NJ 07543 (201)-278-2000

Inc.

Hi-Tek Polymers, I n c . 9808 B l u e g r a s s Pkwy J e f f e r s o n t o w n , KY 40299 (502)-499-4011/(800)-626-2613 Hoechst Celanese Corp. 3340 W . N o r f o l k Rd. P o r t s m o u t h , V A 23703 (804)-483-7530/(800)-526-4960 Hydrolabs, I n c . 27 E 33 S t . P a t e r s o n , N J 07514 ( 2 0 1 ) -345-51 0 0 I C 1 Americas I n c . Concord P i k e & New Murphy Rd. W i lmi n g t o n , DE 19897 (302)-575-3034/(800)-822-8215 I n o l e x Chemical Co. J a c k s o n & Swanson S t s . P h i 1a d e l p h i a , PA 191 48 (215)-271-0800/(800)-521-9891

K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . P.O. Box 447 90 Bourne B l v d . S a y v i l l e , NY 11782 (516)-589-0456 L i po Chemi c a l s , I n c . 207 1 9 t h Ave. P a t e r s o n , N J 07504 ( 2 0 1 )-345-8600 Lonza, I n c . 17-17 R t e . 208 F a i r Lawn, NJ 0741 0 (201)-794-2400/(800)-777-1875 Maybrook, I n c . 570 Broadway P.O. Box 68 Lawrence, MA 01841 (508)-682-1853 M c I n t y r e Group L t d . 1000 G o v e r n o r s Hwy U n i v e r s i t y P a r k , I L 60466 (708)-534-6200 McLaughl i n Gorml ey K i ng Co. 8 8 1 0 - 1 0 t h Ave. N M i nn a p o l i s , MN 55427 ( 6 1 2 -544-0341 Mona 76 E P.O. Pate (201

Industries, Inc. 24 S t . Box 425 son, N J 07544 -345-8220

Suppliers' Addresses

Morflex, Inc. 2110 H i g h P o i n t Rd. G r e e n s b o r o , NC 27403

Nipa Laboratories, I n c 104 H a g l e y B l d g . Concord P1 aza 3411 S i l v e r s i d e Rd. W i 1m i n g t o n , DE 1981 0

(919)-292-1781 Penreco 138 P e t r o l i a S t . Karns C i t y , PA 16041

(302)-478-1522

(412)-283-5600/(800)-245-3952 Phoenix Chemical

, Inc.

322 C o u r t y a r d D r . S o m e r v i l l e , NJ 08876 (908)-707-0232

(201)-575-4550 Noville 1312 F i f t h S t . N o r t h Bergen, NJ 07047

PPG I n d u s t r i e s

(201)-867-9080

3938 P o r e t t D r i v e Gurnee, I L 60031 (708)-244-3410/(800)-CHEM-PPG Presperse I n c .

Rheox, I n c . P . O . Box 700 H i g h t s t o w n , NJ 08520

(609)-443-2320

610 H a d l e y Rd. P . O . Box 735 South P l a i n f i e l d , NJ 07080

(908)-756-2023 Protameen C h e m i c a l s ,

Novarome I n c . 3 0 S t e w a r t P1. F a i r f i e l d , NJ 07004

Inc.

375 M i n n i s i n k Rd. Totowa, NJ 07511 (201)-256-4374 QO C h e m i c a l s P . O . Box 2500 West L a f a y e t t e ,

Rhone-Poul enc Surfactants & Specialties P r o s p e c t P l a i n s Rd. C r a n b u r y , NJ 08512

(609)-860-3025 R I T A Corp. 1725 K i 1 kenny Woodstock, I L 60098

(815)-337-2500/(800)-426-7759

I N 47906 (317)-497-6300/(800)-621-9521

Robertet I n c . 125 Bauer D r i v e O a k l a n d , NJ 07436

N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemical Co 10 F i n d e r n e Ave. B r i d g e w a t e r , NJ 08807

(201)-337-7100

(908)-685-5000/(800)-532-1115

Frank B. Ross Co., I n c . P . O . Box 4085 J e r s e y C i t y , N J 07304

N e v i l l e Chemical Co.

(201)-433-4512

2800 N e v i l l e Rd. P i t t s b u r g h , PA 15225 (412)-331-4200

Sandoz C h e m i c a l s C o r p . 4000 Monroe Rd. C h a r l o t t e , NC 28205

(704)-331-7234/(800)-631-8077

637

638

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shaw Mudge & Co. P . O . Box 1375 S t a m f o r d , CT 06904 (203)-327-3132

Unichema N o r t h A m e r i c a 4650 S . R a c i n e Ave. C h i c a g o , I L 60609 (312)-376-9000/(800)-833-2864

Sonneborn D i v i s i on W i t c o Corp. 520 M a d i s o n Ave. New Y o r k , NY 10022 (212)-605-3981

Union C a r b i d e Chemicals & P l a s t i c 39 O l d R i d g e b u r y Rd. Danbury, CT 06817 (203)-794-5300

Stepan Co. 22 W . F r o n t a g e Rd. N o r t h f i e l d , I L 60093 (708)-446-7500

R.T.Vanderbilt Co., I n c . 30 W i n f i e l d S t . P . O . Box 5150 N o r w a l k , CT 06856 (203)-853-1400

Sun Chemical C o r p . 411 Sun Ave. C i n c i n n a t i , OH 45232 (513)-681-5950/(800)-343-2583

Van Dyk Main & W i l l i a m S t s . B e l l e v i l l e , N J 07109 (201)-450-3264

Sutton Laboratories, I n c . 116 Summit Ave. Chatham, NJ 07928 (201 )-635-1551

Witco Corp. 5777 F r a n t z Rd. P . O . Box 646 D u b l i n , OH 43017 (614)-764-6500/(800)-366-6500

Terry Laboratories, Inc. 390 N . Wickham Rd. P . O . Box 566 M e l b o u r n e , FL 32935 (407)-259-1630/(800)-367-2563 Tioxide Specialties, Ltd. B i 11 i ngham, C1 eve1 and T S 2 3 1 PS U n i t e d Kingdom 0642-370300 Tri-K

Industries, Inc. Box 312 27 B l a n d S t . Emerson, N J 07630 (201)-261-2800/(800)-526-0372 P.O.

3V Inc. 1500 H a r b o r B l v d . Weehawkan, NJ 07087 (201)-865-3600