COSMETIC AND TOILETRY FORMULATIONS
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COSMETIC AND TOILETRY FORMULATIONS
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COSMETIC AND TOILETRY FORMULATlONS Second Edition Volume 7
by
Ernest W. Flick
NOYES PUBLICATIONS WILLIAM ANDREW PUBLISHING, LLC Nomlch, New York, U.S.A.
Copyright 0 1999 by Ernest W.Flick No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the Publisher. Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 89-39099 ISBN 0-6155-1430-1 Printed in the United States Published in the United States of America by Noyes Publications/WilliamAndrew Publishing, LLC 13 Eaton Avenue, Nowich, New York 13615 10 9 6 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data (Revised for vol. 7) Flick, Ernest W. Casmetic and toiletry formulations. 1. Cosmetics. 2. Toilet preparations. I. Title. 666'.55 TF'963.F55 1969 ISBN 0-6155-1216-X (v. 1) ISBN 0-8155-1306-2 (v. 2) ISBN 0-6155-1367-4 (v. 3) ISBN 0-6155-1383-6 (v. 4) ISBN 0-6155-1395-X (v. 5) ISBN 0-6155-1412-3 (v. 6) ISBN 0-8155-1430-1 (v. 7)
89-39099
To
the late Glenice and Wendell and Colby and Therese and Clayton and Madeleine
V
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This book contains 576 cosmetic and toiletry formulations, based on information received from numerous industrial companies and other organizations. This is Volume 7 of the Second Edition of this work; Volume 1was published in 1989, Volume 2 in 1992, Volume 3 in early 1995, Volume 4 in late 1995, Volume 5 in 1996, and Volume 6 in 1998. There are no duplications in any of these volumes. The data represent selections from manufacturers' descriptions made at no cost to, nor influence from, the makers or distributors of these materials. Only the most recent formulas have been included. It is believed that all of the trademarked raw materials listed are currently available, which will be of interest to readers concerned with raw material discontinuances. The 1996 market for cosmetic raw materials is estimated at $2 billion. Each formulation in the book is identified by a description of end use. The formulations include the following as available, in the manufacturer's own words: a listing of each raw material contained; the percent by weight of each raw material; suggested formulation procedure; and the formula source, which is the company or organization that supplied the formula. The book is divided into the following 12 sections, with the number of formulations indicated in ( ).
I. 11. 111.
Iv. V.
VI. VII. VIII.
Ix.
X. XI. XI.
Antiperspirants and Deodorants (20) Baby Products (17) Bath and Shower Products (59) Beauty Aids (97) Creams (75) Hair Care Products (66) Lotions (40) Shampoos (43) Shaving Products (11) Soaps and Hand Cleaners (48) Sun Care Products (72) Miscellaneous (28)
vii
viii
Preface
Each formula is indexed in the section which is most applicable. The reader seeking a formula for a specific end use should check each section which could possibly apply.
In addition to the above, there are two other sections that will be helpful to the reader: XIII.
Trade-Named Raw Materials. Each raw material is listed with a brief chemical description and the name of the raw material supplier.
XIV.
Suppliers' Addresses. Addresses of suppliers of tradenamed raw materials and/or formulations, some of which are not available in the usual reference books.
It should be noted that some formulations in the book are translations. The manufacturer's exact wording has been used in these cases. Occasionally different companies have listed the same raw material differently; it is hoped that the reader will be able to identify the same or similar raw materials by consulting the Trade-Named Raw Materials section. The table of contents of the book is organized in such a way as to serve as a subject index. My fullest appreciation is expressed to the companies and organizations which supplied the information included in this book. Ernest W. Flick
July 1999
NOTICE To the best of our knowledge the infomation in this publication is accurate; however, the Publisher does not aSsume any responsibility or liability for the accuracy or completeness of, or consequences arising from, such information. This book does not purport to contain detailed user instruction, and by its range and scope could not possibly do so. Mention of trade names or commercial products does not constitute endorsement or recommendation for use by the Author or Publisher. Cosmetic and toiletry raw materials could be toxic or cause allergies in some circumstances, and, therefore, due caution should always be exercised in the use of potentially hazardous materials and the manufacturing processes involved. Final determination of the suitability of any information or product for use contemplated by any user, and the manner of that use, is the sole responsibility of the user. We strongly recommend that users seek and adhere to a manufacturer's or supplier's cunent instructions for handling each material they use. The Author and Publisher have used their best efforts to include only the most recent data available. The reader is cautioned to consult the supplier in case of questions regarding cunent availability.
Contents and Subject Index
SECTION 1: ANTIPERSPIRANTS AND DEODORANTS . . . . . . . . . 1 Antiperspirant Gel with 20% Active AVZr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Deodorant Gel with 25% Active ACH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Enhanced Antiperspirant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Reduced VOC Antiperspirant Aerosol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Enhanced Antiperspirant Suspension Roll-on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Enhanced Efficacy Antiperspirant Suspension Roll-On . . . . . . . . 5 Non Whitening Antiperspirant Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Water-in-Oil Antiperspirant Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Oil-in-Water Roll-on Anti-Perspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Clear Pumpable Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Roll-On Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Deo Antiperspirant Spray with Aerosol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Roll-on Antispirant Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Antiperspirant Roll-on Lotion with lsosorbide Monolaurate . . . . . . 9 Roll-On Antiperspirants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 10 ACH Formula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A1 Zr Tetrachlorothydrex-GLY Formula . . . . . . . . . . 10 11 Roll on Deodorant Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Antiperspirant Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Stick Antiperspirants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 SECTION II: BABY PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Hair Conditioner Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Diaper Rash Ointment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pearlized Baby Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
13 14 14 15 15
16 17 18 19
x
Contents and Subject Index Crystal Clear Baby Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Acid Balanced Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Baby Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Baby Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
.............
20 20 21 21
SECTION 111: BATH AND SHOWER PRODUCTS 22 After BathBhower Milky Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 After Bath/Shower Soft Milky Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 After-Shower Milky Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 After-Shower Soft Milky Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 After-Shower Flowable Milky Creme/Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Bath Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 25 Shower Gel for Sensitive Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Bath Gel with Vitamin E Moisturizing Beads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Bath and Shower Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 28 Bath and Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Body Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Simple Bath Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 30 Clear Milk-Based Bubble Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Opacified Milk-Based Bubble Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Clear Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Shower Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Cream Body Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Powdered Bath Foam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 33 Creamy Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Floating Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Creamy Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Creamy "2 in 1" Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Creme Body Wash with Emmollients . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Economy Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 European Style Bath Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 37 Blooming Emollient Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Exfoliating Body Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Foaming Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Gentle Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Economical Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 40 Clear Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Low Cost Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Mild Bubble Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 After BathTalc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Milk Bath Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Body Wash for Sensitive Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Milk Enriched Bath and Shower Cleanser (Clear)-B . . . . . . . . . 44
Contents and Subject Index
xi
Milk Enriched Bath and Shower Cleanser (Clear)-C . . . . . . . . . 44 Milk Enriched Bath and Shower Cleanser (Clear)-D . . . . . . . . . 44 Milk Enriched Bath and Shower Cleanser (Clear)-E . . . . . . . . . 45 Milk Enriched Bath and Shower Cleanser (Clear) . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Milk Enriched Body Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Gel Conditioning Body Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Moisturizing Shower Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Moisturizing Self-Emulsifying Bath Oil (With AHA-Ester) . . . . . 47 Moisturizing Shower Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Shower Gel with Low Washing Active Solids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Opacified Bath & Shower Liquid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Opacified Bath & Shower Liquid Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 50 Pearlized Bath Salts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shower and Bath Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Water White Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 2 in 1 Creamy Body Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 SECTION I V BEAUTY AIDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 AHA-Clarifying Face Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Aloe Vera Gel Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Amphoteric Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 OW-Moisturizing Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Anhydrous Deep Penetrating Vitamin Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 59 Gel with Thiosome (P) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Blackstar Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Eye Shadow with Timiron MP-60. MP-65 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 61 Body Mask With Liposilt Green . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cleansing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Make up Remover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 63 Cleansing Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Milk Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Clear Facial Cleansing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Concealing Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 66 Creamy Liquid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dark Beige Makeup with Tego Care 450 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Facial Cleaner and Toner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Deep Extra Body Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 69 Emollient Liquid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Ester Based Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sheer Liquid Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Eye Contour Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Eye Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Facial Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
xii
Contents and Subject Index Clear Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Facial Wash with Salicylic Acid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Milk Enriched Facial Cleanser (Clear) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 Foaming Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 SkinTonic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Glistening Body Cologne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Light Face Fluid with Emulgade PL 68/50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Facial Cleansing Gel with Gluadin WO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 78 Lipcare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Liposome Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Lipstick with Miglyol Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Creamy Lipstick Base (With AHA-Ester) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83 84 Lip Stick with Softisan Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Lip Care Stick with SPF ca.6 Lipstick with Timiron MP-60, MP-65 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 85 Blackstar Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Crystal Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Water-in-Oil Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Liquid Foundation with Extender W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Liquid Foundation with Low Lustre Pigment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 89 Liquid Makeup Formulation-2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Long Lasting Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Care Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Luxurious Makeup (W/O) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Makeup Remover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Make-up Remover (Liquid Crystal Gel) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93 93 Make up Remover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisturizing Milk Creme with Monasil PCA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 Pump Dispensible Luxurious Body Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Moisturizing Milk Creme Lotion F-712 with Silicone PLN and High Fragrance Level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Flowable Moisturizing Milk Creme F-713 with High Fragrance Level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Nonionic Liquid Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Moisturizing Skin Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Oil-in-Water Hydro-Gel for Sensitive Skin (Page 1) Oil-in-Water Hydro-Gel for Sensitive Skin . . . . . . . . . . 98 98 Hydrating Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil-in-Water Hydro-Gel for Sensitive Skin (Page 2) Oil-in-water Moisturizing Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Oil-in-Water Milk with "Natural" Preservative . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Contents and Subject Index
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Oil-in-Water Moisturising Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Powder Eyeshadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 102 Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Pressed Powder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Purifying Clay Face Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 106 Rejuvenating Skin Gel (Aqueous) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Replenishing Milk Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Skin Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Skin Gel(O/W) with ASC I l l . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 111 Skin Rejuvenating Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cleansing Emulsion for Towelettes (With AHA Ester) . . . . . . . 111 Skin Smoother Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Liposome Serum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Sparkling Skin Moisturizing Fluid with Microcapsules . . . . . . . . 113 114 Super Moisturizing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Timiron Silk Color Corrector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 Under Eye Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 116 Skin Smoother Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Undereye and Spot Concealer Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 119 Water-in-Oil Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Oil-in Water Tropic Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water-in-Oil-in-Water Face Moisturiser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120 Waterproof Special Effects Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 SECTION V CREAMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 All Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Cold Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Anti-Cellulite Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Antiwrinkle Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 125 Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cold Cream ( O M ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Handcream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 126 Ointment Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Oil-in-Water High Mineral Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Cream, O W .with MPC-Milk Peptide Complex . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Cream, O W .with Protectan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 129 Cream. Type O W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cream O W for Daycare of Oily Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Cream. Type O W .with Phytodermin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Cream. Type W/O. with Phytodermin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 O W Basic Cream with AHA-Esters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
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Contents and Subject Index Facecream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 High Gloss Cream. Type O W .with Liposomes . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Cream with Citric Acid Ester and Glycerol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 High Gloss Cream. Type W/O. with Almond Oil . . . . . . . . . . . 134 134 Care Cream with Skin Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Light Moisturizing Cream for Dry Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Light Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Moisturizing Cream Cold Process W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137 Barrier Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Moisturizing Day Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Moisturizing Milk Creme with Monasil PLN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 Moisturizing Milk Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 Moisturizing Milk Creme Variation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Moisturizing Milk Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 141 Moisturizing Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multi-functional Day Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 143 Enriched Night Cream (W/O) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 144 Facial Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Night Cream W/O with Regeneration Effect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Night Foundation Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 All Purpose Cream. Hand & Body Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Oil-in-Water Dimethicone Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 148 Oil-in-Water Natural Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Oil-in-Water Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Oil-in-Water Volatile Silicone Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 152 Optimal Face Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Rejuvenating Skin (OnU) Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Shower Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 154 Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shower Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 Emollient Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 156 Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Soft Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Emollient Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Soft Cream. Type W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Cream, Type O W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Ultra-Moisturizing Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Vanishing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 164 Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water-in-Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165
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W/O Basic Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin Protective Cream with Silicone Fluid (With AHA-Ester) W/O Cream with Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Handcream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Light Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Light Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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. . 166 167 167 168 168
SECTION VI: HAIR CARE PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Aerosol Fine Fragrance Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Men's Finishing Fragrance Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 171 Aerosol Fragrance Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 Blow-Dry Styling Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 Water Based Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clarifying and Volumizing Hair Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 174 Clear Conditioning Hair Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Antidandruff Hair Tonic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Clear Conditioning Hair Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Cream Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Clear Extra Conditioning Hair Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Cream Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 177 Clear Gel Activator/Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethnic Hair Care Extra Conditioning Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . 177 Clear Silicone Hair Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 178 Cream Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Gel Hair Conditioning Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 Creme Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 180 Hair Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Creme Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 181 Monasil PCA Hair Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Ethnic Hair Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pearled . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Ethnic Hair Glosser/Extra Conditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 Ethnic Pump Spray Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 184 Hair Brushing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Hair Conditioner Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 185 Hair Conditioner Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Dressing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Ethnic Hair Care Leave-In Moisturizing/Sheen . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Hair Relaxers 187 Hair Relaxer D-51 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Relaxer D-52 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 Hair and Scalp Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188
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Contents and Subject Index Hair Styling Cream with Natural Oils & Conditioners . . . . . . . . 189 Hair Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Hard Hold Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Hair Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 191 Neutralizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hair Styling Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 Crystal Clear Hair Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 Hydrogen Peroxide Emulsions Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 193 Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 StylinglConditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Medium Hold. 80% VOC Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Firm Hold. 80% VOC Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Mild Fortified Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 196 Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Permanent Wave Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Neutralizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Spray Hair Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 199 Spray-on Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Spray Detangler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 Comb Through Glosser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 Temporary Hair Color Gel W/Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 200 Blackstar Hair Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Washable Crew Cut Wax . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Clear Hair Conditioner Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Cream Hair Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Water-in-Oil Hair Dressing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 202 Oil-in-Water Hair Dressing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55% VOC Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 80% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
SECTION VII: LOTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 Milk Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 Body Lotion. Type O W ,with MPC-Milk Peptide Complex . . . . 206 Flowable Moisturizing Milk Creamy Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 207 Monasil PCA Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 tight Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 211 Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dry Skin Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 Lotion for Very Dry Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212
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Low Cost Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 Moisture Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . W/O Lotion 214 Moisturizing Milk Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 Monasil PCA Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 Non-Greasy W/O Mineral Oil Free Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 Water-in-Silicone Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 OMI Body Lotion. Cold Processing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 217 Light O W Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . OMI Lotion for Spray Application . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Soft O N Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Oil-in-Water Stearic Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 Silky Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 221 Skin Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Moisture Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Solar Protection Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 223 Ultra-AHA Moisturizing Skin Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Vanishing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 Emollient Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 226 Velvet Care Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O W AHA Lotion with Lactic Acid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Water-in-Oil Cleansing Lotion with Ethanol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Hydroalcoholic Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Water-ln-Oil Mineral Oil Lotions Gel Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 Water-in-Oil Mineral Oil Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 229 Water-in-Oil Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SECTION VIII: SHAMPOOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 Anti-Dandruff Shampoo with Zinc Pyrithione . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 Clear and Milk Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 Coconut Shampoo (35% Real Soap) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .233 Coconut-Oleic Shampoo (35% Real Soap) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 234 Creamshampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Crystal Clear Conditioning Shampoos Crystal Clear Luxury Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 Crystal Clear Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 236 Deodorizing Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conditioning Shampoo for Treated Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .236 Frequent Use Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 237 Daily Use Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gentle Everyday Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238
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Self-Adjusting Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 239 Gentle Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 Hair and Body Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 High Performance Low Irritation Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241 Low Irritation Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .241 LOW-Cost Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 243 Mild Shampoo with Panthenol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Mink Oil Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243 Neutralizing Conditioning Ethnic Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 Milk Anti-Dandruff Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 Pearled Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 Clear Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 Clear Gel Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 246 Pearlized Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 Salon-Style Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247 247 Baby Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 Shampoo with Evening Primrose Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 251 Temporary Color-In Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 Two in One Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 Two-ln-One Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . All in One Shampoo/Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 Ultra Mild Conditioning Shampoo with Suspended Mica . . . . . . 254
SECTION IX: SHAVING PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 Aerosol Shave Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 Nonionic Aerosol Shave Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 After Shave Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Aftershave Gel with Peppermint and Tea Tree Oil . . . . . . . . . . 258 Experimental Shaving Cream Preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259 260 Gel Shave Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pre-electric Shave Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260 Oil-in-Water After-Shave Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 Shave Cream Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 Electric Preshave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 263 Shave Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SECTION X: SOAPS AND HAND CLEANERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 Antibacterial Handcleaner: Hospital Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Antibacterial Handcleaner: Shop Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265
Contents and Subject Index
xix
Antibacterial Handcleaner: Off ice Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Waterless Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Antibacterial Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267 Mild Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267 268 Antimicrobial Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 Application for Soaps and Syndet Bars Syndet Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 269 Transparent Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conconut-Soya Hand Soap (15% Real Soap) . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 Soya Scrub Soap (15% Real Soap) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .270 Cream Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271 Solid Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271 D-Limonene Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 Waterless Hand Cleaner with d-Limonene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 273 Hand and Body Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Economy Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 Heavy Duty Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 Combo Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 Hot Pour Syndet Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 Syndet Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 Liquidsoap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 LiquidHandSoap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277 Coconut-Oleic Hand Soap (15% Real Soap) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278 279 Liquid Hand Soap w/Aloe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Deodorant Hand Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279 Luxury Liquidsoap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 Liquid Hand Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 281 Mild Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hot-Pour Syndet Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281 Opaque Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282 Transparent Toilet Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283 Pearlized Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 284 Syndet Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Surgical Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 Toilet Soap Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 Floating Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 Pine Oil Hand Soap (15% Real Soap) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 Ultra-Waterless Hand Cleaner with Abrasive . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287 Waterless Hand Cleaner Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 288 d-Limonene Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
rn
Contents and Subject Index
SECTION XI: SUN CARE PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 Clear Liquid Sunblock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290 Dry Touch Physical Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291 Enriched Moisturizing Lotion (Before & After Tanning) . . . . . . . 292 Sunscreen Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 Microfine Titanium Dioxide Sunscreen ( O N ) Lotion Broad Spectrum UVNUVB Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293 Microfine Titanium Dioxide Sunscreen (W/O) Lotion Broad Spectrum UVNUVB Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294 Microfine Titanium Dioxide Sunscreen (WlO) Lotion SPF 11 Broad Spectrum UVNUVB Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295 Oil and Emulsifier Free Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296 O/W Emollient Sunscreen Lotions UV-3 (SPF 6) . . . . . . . . . . 297 297 UV-4(SPF15) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O/W Moisturizing Sunscreen Creams UV-1 (SPF 6) . . . . . . . . 298 UV-2(SPF15) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298 Oil-in-Water Sun Milk with High SPF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299 Oil-in-Water Sun Protection Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 Oil-in-Water Sun Protective Cream with "Natural" Sun Filter . . 301 Self Tanning Cream W/UV Filter ( O W )SPF 19.O/UVA PF 9.5 (Sun Protection Factor. Diffey Method) . . . . . . . . . 302 302 Sunscreen Cream SPF 12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Self Tanning Cream W/UV Filter ( O N ) SPF 20.5/UVA PF 8.5 (Sun Protection Factor. Diffey Method) . . . . . . . . . 303 Sunscreen Cream SPF 9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303 304 Self Tanning Lotion ( O N ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Self Tanning Lotion (W/O) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 Self Tanning Milk ( O M ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305 Leave-On Hair Treatment Spray with Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . 305 306 Sunblock Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 Ti02 Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SPF 12 Sunscreen Liposome Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 PABA Free Milk & Honey Sunscreen Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .307 Sun Care Emulsion SPF (Calculated) approx. 15 . . . . . . . . . . 308 308 Sunscreen Products . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sun Care Lotion with Hydagen CMF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .309 Sun Protection Emulsion for Spray-Application LSF/SPF 309 (Colipa) 9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sun Protection Cream (W/O) SPF 22 (Sun Protection Factor. Colipa Method with 5 Volunteers) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .310 Sun Protection Emulsion for Spray Application SPF (COLIPA) 9 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311 After Sun with Panthenol for Spray Application . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 1
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Sun Protection Gel (aqueous) SPF 10 (Sun Protection Factor FDA-Method with 5 Volunteers) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .312 Sun Protection Lotion (W/O) SPF 20 (Sun Protection Factor. Colipa Method with 5 Volunteers) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313 Sun Protection Lotion ( O W ) SPF 23 (Sun Protection Factor. Colipa Method with 5 Volunteers) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .314 314 Self Tanning Milk (W/O) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Cream UV-6 (SPF 6) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315 UV-7(SPF15) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315 Sunscreen Emulsion. Type OW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316 316 Clear Sunscreen Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Emulsion with Titanium Dioxide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317 Sunscreen Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 320 Sunscreen Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Gel SPF 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321 Sunscreen Gel SPF 10 (Aqueous-Alcoholic) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322 323 Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 Waterproof Sunscreen Cream (SPF 19) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 Sunscreen Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325 Sunscreen ( O W ) Lotion SPF 16) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326 Sunscreen ( O W )Lotion SPF 17 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327 Sunscreen (W/O) Lotion SPF 20 Broad Spectrum 328 UVNUVB Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen (W/O) Lotion SPF 23 Broad Spectrum UVNUVB Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329 Sunscreen (W/O) Lotion SPF 30 Waterproof Broad Spectrum 330 UVNUVB Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Titanium Dioxide Based Water Resistant Sunscreen (SPF 22) . 331 Waterproof Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332 Waterproof Suntan Lotion SPF 17 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333 Moisturizing Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333 Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF-16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 334 Cooling After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335 335 Water-ln-Oil Sunscreen SPF 26 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Water Resistant Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336 Water-Resistant Sunscreen Lotion SPF 24 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337 338 W/O Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O N Lotion with SPF 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338 Zinc Oxide Sunscreen Cream (PABNOxybenzone Free) 339 Estimated SPF=20 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Zinc Oxide Sunscreen (Measured SPF=9.2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340 340 Milk and Honey Sunscreen Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
mii
Contents and Subject Index
SECTION XII: MISCELLANEOUS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341 342 Bacitracin Ointment(0W) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hydrocortisone Ointment ( O M ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342 343 Children's Dentrifrice Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clear Emollient Microemulsion (With AHA-Ester) . . . . . . . . . . 344 Penetrating Massage Oil (With AHA-Ester) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 Emulsion. Type O W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 345 Microgel. Soft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 345 High Cleaning Dentifrice Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346 Insect Repellent Cream (W/O) with UV-Filter . . . . . . . . . . . . .347 Insect Repellent Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347 Men's Alcohol-Free Cologne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348 Mineral Oil Emulsion Containing Ethanol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .349 349 Hydrophilic Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350 Moderate Abrasivity Dentifrice Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multiple Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351 Peppermint Foot Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 352 353 Silicone Emulsion, Type W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Silicone Emulsion. Type O/W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353 354 Skin Soothing Ointment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Lactylate Based Barrier Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354 S.T.Tonic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355 356 Stearyl Alcohol Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Washable Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 357 SECTION XIII: TRADE-NAMED RAW MATERIALS SECTION XIV: SUPPLIERS' ADDRESSES
. . . . . . . . . . 358
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394
Section I Antiperspirants and Deodorants
2
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
A n t i p e r s p i r a n t Gel W i t h 20% A c t i v e A l / Z r Ingredients: Phase A : D 1 i l i e t ~ l ~ c G : lC e o p o i y ~ l ( a n d : C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 EM 9 7 ) Cyc1ometh;cone ( A b i l B 8 8 3 9 ) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P: Dimethicone (Abi I 50) D i m e t h i c o n e C0p0ly01 ( A b i l B 8852) S t e a r y l H e p t a n o a t e ( T e g o s o f t SH) Phase B : A l umi num Z i r c o n i urn T e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x G l y ( 4 6 % solution) SD Alcohol 4 0 Propylene ~ l y c o l Water D i p r o p y 1 ene Gl y c o 1
V[ tR
2.40 13.80
0.50 0.80 0 .a o 0.T5
43.50 2.50
14.30 10.65
10.00
Procedure: 1 . Add t n e r a w m a t e r i a l s o f P h a s e A , i n i x i n g to u n i f o r m t y a t room t empe r a t u r e m i x i ng 2 . Add t h e r a w m a t e r i a l s o f P h a s e B t o a s e c o n d v e s s e l t o u n i f o r m i t y . The a c t i v e s a l t s h o u l d b e m i x e d t o a c l e a r , colorless solution. 3 . Measure t h e r e f r a c t i v e l n d i c e s o f b o t h p h a s e s . A d j u s t Phase B w i t h e i t h e r p i - o p y l e n e g l y c o l or w a t e r t o m a t c h t h e r e f r a c t i v e i n d e x o f P h a s e A . The r e f r a c t i v e I n d i c e s s h o u l d a g r e e to t h e f o u r t h d e c i m a i p i a c e f o r tota.1 c l a r i t y . 4 . S l o w l y s t r e a m Phase B i n t o Phase A w i t h s l o w ( 300r pm ) m u l t i b l a d e m i x i n g . The a d d i t i o n r a t e s h o u l d m a t c h t h e a g i t a t i o n , not a l l o w i n g t h e w a t e r to p o o l o n t h e e m u l s i o n s u r f a c e . A f t e r t h e a d d i t i o n o f t h e w a t e r phase i s c o m p l e t e , i n c r e a s e t h e a g i t a t i o n r a t e to 1 , 2 0 0 rpin f o r a f e w m i n u t e s . T h i s w i l l b u i l d t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h e m i x t u r e to a l o w v i s c o s i t y , flowing gel. 5 . Homogenize t h e m i x t u r e a t a ? O W r a t e . M i x until a f i r m (shearable) gel i s obtained.
.
SOURCE: Go1 d s c h m i d t Chemi c a l C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i ons
Antiperspirants and Deodorants
3
Deodorant Gel With 25% Active ACH Inaredients: Phase A: Dimethicone Copolyol (and) Cyclomethicone (Abil EM 9 7 ) Cyclomethicone (Abil B 8 8 3 9 ) Isopropyl Palmitate (Tegosoft P) Dimethicone (Abil 5 0 ) Phenyl Trimethicone (Abil AV 20) Dimethicone Copolyol (Abil B 8 8 5 2 ) Stearyl Heptanoate (Tegosoft SH)
2.40 13.80 0.50 0.80 0.50 0.80 0.75
Phase B: Aluminum Chlorohydrate (50% solution) SD Alcohol 40 Sorbito1 Propylene Glycol Water Dipropylene Glycol
50.00 4.00 0.50 13.95 9.00 3.00
wt%
Procedure: 1. Add the raw materials of Phase A, mixing to uniformity at room temperature. 2 . Add the raw materials of Phase B to a second vessel, mixing to uniformity. The active salt should be mixed to a clear, colorless solution. 3 . Measure the refractive indices of both phases. Adjust Phase B with either propylene glycol or water to match the refractive index of Phase A. The refractive indices should agree to the fourth decimal place for total clarity. 4. Slowly stream Phase B into Phase A with slow ( 3 0 0 rpm) multiblade mixing. The addition rate should match the agitation, not allowing the water to pool on the emulsion surface. After the addition of the water phase is complete, increase the agitation rate to 1 , 2 0 0 rpm for a few minutes. This will build the viscosity of the mixture to a low viscosity, flowing gel. 5 . Homogenize the mixture at a low rate. Mix until a firm (shearable) gel is obtained. SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggested Formulation
4
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Enhanced A n t i p e r s D i r a n t S t i c k A smooth f e e l i n g , h i g h p a y o u t s t i c k i n c o r p o r a t i n g a c o s t e f f e c t i v e enhanced e f f i c a c y a l u m i n u m - z i r c o n i u m a c t i v e d e m o n s t r a t i n g optimal antiperspirant efficacy.
I n g r e d i e n t s :. A_ Reach AZP-908 SUF B . Cyclomethicone (Pentamer) C. S t e a r y l Alcohol D . P r o m y r i s t y l PM-3 E. PEG-8 D i s t e a r a t e F . T a l c , 3 2 5 mesh G. S i l i c a ti. F r a g r a n c e
!VtiQ 20.0 50.5 20.0 5.0 2.0 1.0 1.5 Q . S
Procedure: 1 . Add B t o r e a c t i o n v e s s e l a n d h e a t t o 65C. 2 . Add D a n d E w i t h m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g . 3 . Add C s l o w l y , m a i n t a i n 65C. I n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n a n d a d d A . Mix f o r 5 minutes. 4 . Add F a n d m i x 5 m i n u t e s . 5 . Add G a n d m i x 5 m i n u t e s . 6 . Add H . U s i n g s l o w t o m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g , c o o l t o 55C and p o u r i n t o s t i c k casings. R e d u c e d VOC A n t i p e r s p i r a n t Aeroso.1 T h i s c o m p o s i t i o n was f o r m u l a t e d t o meet t h e i n t e r i m CAR6 ( C a l i f o r n i a A i r Resources Board) r e g u l a t i o n s b e g i n n i n g 12/31/92. The u s e o f a n o n - v o l a t i l e e s t e r p r o v i d e s a c l e a n e r f o r m u l a w i t h r e d u c e d r e s i d u e when c o m p a r e d t o many m a r k e t e d p r o d u c t s .
w t%
Ingredient: A . Reach 1 0 3 B . B e n t o n e G e l VS-5/PC C . D i is o p r o p y l A d i p a t e 0 . Perfume E. I s o b u t a n e
12.5 12.5 15.0 q.s 60.0
Procedure: 1 . Combine B a n d C u s i n g a n Eppenbach h o m o m i x e r a t 5 0 0 0 rpm f o r 5 minutes. 2 Add A . M i x 10 m i n u t e s . 3 . Add D a n d m i x 5 m i n u t e s . 4 . P l a c e m i x t u r e i n a s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r and c h a r g e w i t h E , a s s p e c 1 f ie d . M a c r o s p h e r i c a l 9 5 i s a recommended a l t e r n a t i v e a c t i v e .
*
SOURCE: R e h e i s ,
Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Antiperspirants and Deodorants
5
Enhanc~d.Anlt~rs~.i.rant..SICsp_e_~s-_i_o_!! _Ro!l=O.n A d r y r o l l - o n t h a t i n c o r p o r a t e s an enhanced e f f i c a c y aluminumz i r c o n i u m a c t i v e t h a t demonstrates o p t i m a l a n t i p e r s p i r a n t e f f ic a c y
.
Jnqmdi ents: A . Reach AZZ-902 B . Bentone 38 C . SD A l c o h o l 4 0 D. Cyclomethicone ( t e t r a m e r ) E. Fragrance
WtYO
20.0 2.7 1.8 75.5 9.s
Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e B i n t o D u s i n g Eppenbach Homomixer. Mix 2 0 m i n u t e s ; m a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e 25-35C. 2 . Add p r e - m i x o f C and E; m i x 5 m i n u t e s . 3 . Add A and m i x w i t h moderate shear u n t i l u n i f o r m . 4 . Pour i n t o s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r s . Enhanced E f f i c a c y A n t i p e r s p i r a n t S u s p e n s i o n R o l l - O n T h i s f o r m u l a employs an enhanced e f f i c a c y aluminum z i r c o n i u m tetrachlorohydrex glycine i n a superultrafine p a r t i c l e s i r e d i s t r i b u t i o n , w h i c h i s t h e most p o p u l a r f o r m o f t h e a c t i v e . H y d r o g e n a t e d p o l y i sobutene i s used t o ma1 n t a i n v i s c o s i t y b e h a v i o r o v e r t i m e and t o r e d u c e w h i t e n i n g r e s i d u e upon - a p p l i c a t i o n . Ingredients. A . Reach A Z P 908 SUF B . Bentone Gel VS-S/PC C Cyclomethicone (Tetramer) D. Panalane L - 1 4 E ( h y d r o g e n a t e d p o l y i s o b u t e n e ) E Silica F . Fragrance
Wt%
20.00 13.50 3 5 25 30.00 0 50 0.75
Procedure: 1 . M i x B and C w i t h o v e r h e a d m i x e r f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s . 2 . Add D and mix f o r 10 m i n u t e s . 3 . Add A and m i x f o r 15 m i n u t e s 4 . Add E and F . M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s . 5 . Homogenize f o r a p p r o x i m a t e l y 4 m i n u t e s and p o u r i n t o s u i t a b l e containers.
SOURCE: R e h e i s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
6
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Non Whi t e n i n g A n t i p e r s p i r a n t Cream Wt% 3.2 1.8 2.0 5.0
Ingredients: A B r i ] 721S, S t e a r e t h - 2 1 B r i ] 72, S t e a r e t h - 2 A t l a s 1500, G l y c e r o l m o n o s t e a r a t e C e t y l a l c o h o l , N.F. Arlamol ISML, Isosorbide Laurate F l o r a s u n 9 0 , H y b r i d S u n f l o w e r Seed O i l Cow C o r n i n g 344 f l u i d , C y c l o m e t h i c o n e
2.5 0.5 4.0
B Water
23.8
C Rezal 3 6 G , Aluminum z i r c o n i u m t e t r a c h l o r h y d r o x g l y c i n e (35% s o l u t i o n )
57.1
D Preservative,
D o w i c i l 200
0.1
Preparation: H e a t ( A ) t o 7DC a n d ( 8 ) t o 72C. H e a t ( C ) t o 60C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h g o o d a g i t a t i o n , When (AB) i s u n i f o r m s l o w l y a d d ( C ) . M i x w e l l . When t e m p e r a t u r e d r o p s t o 35C, a d d ( D ) a n d a n y w a t e r t h a t was l o s t d u e t o e v a p o r a t i o n . F o r m u l a C P 1178 Water-in-01 1 A n t i p e r s p i r a n t
Cream
Ingredients: A A r l a m o l HD i s o h e x a d e c a n e C a p r y I ic C a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e s A r l a m o l E PPG 1 5 s t e a r y l e t h e r Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l A r l a c e 1 P135 PEG 3 0 d i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e
W t Yo 14.7 7.35 7.35 2.0 4.0
B 5 0 % a1 umi num c h l o r o h y d r a t e s o l u t i o n
40.0 24.3
Water C Preservative
q.s.
Preparation: H e a t ( A ) t o 70C a n d ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) , m i x w e l l , homogenize f o r a few m i n u t e s . C o n t i n u e r e g u l a r s t i r r i n g t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e a s p e r m a n u f a c t u r e r ' s i n s t r u c t i o n s . Replace water l o s t by evaporation. F o r m u l a CP 1203
SOURCE:
ICI
Surfactants:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Antiperspirants and Deodorants
_ O_ i 1-in-Water Roll -on A n t i - P e r s p i r a n t
WB t
Innredients: A . A r l a t o n e 983 B r i j 76 A r l a m o l HD Arlamol S7 A r l a m o l M812 L o r o l C16*
2.0 2.0 8.0 3.0 5.0 0.5
B. Locron P*
20 * 0
C . A t l a s G-2330 Propylene g l y c o l Preservatives Water
1.25 1 .25 9,s. 57.0
D . Perfume
4.s.
Manufacture: 1 . Heat A and C s e p a r a t e l y t o 7 0 C . 2 . Add A t o C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . 3 . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e . 4 . Add B t o t h i s e m u l s i o n s l o w l y w h i l e s t i r r i n g . 5 , Homogeni s e a g a i n . 6 . Cool t o 35C w h i l s t s t i r r i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y . 7 . Add p e r f u m e . Comments: Viscosity:
20,000 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d L.VT,
s p i n d l e E,
6 rpm)
L o r o l C16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l , INC1)-Henkel L o c r o n P (Aluminum C h l o r o h y d r a t e , INC1)-Hoechst F o r m u l a t i o n F44-12-4
_______ C1 e a r Pumpabl e A n t i p e r s p i r a n t Inqredients: A l c o h o l , SDA F o r m u l a No. 40 A r l a m o l E pop 1 5 s t e a r y l e t h e r Aluminum C h l o r h y d r a t e ( 5 0 % s o l u t i o n ) Water, d e i o n i z e d
yt% 50
5 40
5
Preparation: D i s s o l v e A r l a m o l E p o l y o x y p r o p y l e n e 15 s t e a r y l e t h e r i n a l c o h o l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e , and s t i r u n t i l c l e a r . S l o w l y add aluminum c h l o r h y d r a t e and w a t e r , s t i r r i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Package. F o r m u l a t i o n AE-12
SOURCE: I C I S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
7
8
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Roll-On Antiperspirant Raw Materials: Miglyol 8 1 2 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Imwitor 780K (Isostearyl Diglyceryl Succinate) Softisan Gel (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1 (and) Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate)
A)
B) Carbopol 9 8 0 Gel 1% Abil WE 0 9 (Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (and) Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol (and) Hexyl Laurate) Locron L (Aluminum Chlorohydrate) Preservative Water, up to C) Deosafe Perfume 75 4 2 8 N/I
wtg 8.50
5.00 2.00 12.50 0.50 1.00 q.s. 100.00 1.00
Preparation: (A) is heated up to 50 degrees C and mixed. (B) is mixed and heated up to the same temperature. (B) is emulsified into ( A ) . At 40 degrees C, (C) is added. Formulation 1.5X Deo Antiperspirant Spray with Aerosol Raw Materials: A ) Miglyol 8 1 2 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Hydagen DEO (Triethyl Citrate (and) EHT) Locron P (Aluminum Chlorohydrate) Aerosil 2 0 0 (Silica) Perfume B) Drivosol 35* (Propane, Isopropane, Butane
*Filling: Lotion: 8 % Drivosol: 92%, 3 . 5 bar Preparation: (A) is mixed together thoroughly. Formulation 1.5W
SOURCE: Creanova I n c . : Suggested Formulations
Wt% 2.00 2.00 3.00 0.10
q.s.
q.s.
Antiperspirants and Deodorants
9
Rol 1 -on A n t i spir-ant...l o t i o n
. ..
~~
WK0h
--. Ingredients: ~~
A r l a m o l E pop 1 5 s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 7 2 1 poe 2 1 s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 72 poe 2 s t e a r y l e t h e r B . Water, d e i o n i z e d C. Preservative D. Aluminum Z i r c o n i u m T e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x (35% s o l u t i o n )
4.00 0.76 3.24 34.86
A.
q.s. GLY
57.14
Preparation: Heat ( A ) t o 7OC and ( 8 ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( 6 ) between 5 0 - 6 O C . Add ( D ) a t 45C. S t i r t o 35C and r e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n . Formulation Notes: The a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t i s 20% o f t h e f o r m u l a . Stability: The Formula i s s t a b l e f o r a t l e a s t f o u r weeks a t 5 C , 40C, 50C, and f o u r f r e e z e - t h a w c y c l e s . V i scosi t y : The v i s c o s i t y o f t h e formLila a f t e r orie week a t 25C was 1 , 7 6 0 c p s . A f t e r e l e v e n weeks i t was 3 , 3 2 8 c p s . Formul a AE-13 A n t i p e r s p i r a n t Roll-on L o t i o n w i t h Isosorbide Monolaurate Ingredients. A r l a m o l E pop 1 5 s t e a i y l e t h e r A r l d m o l I S M L i s o s o r b i d e monolaur-ate B r 1 ) 7 2 1 poe 2 1 s t e a r y l etherB r i ] 72 poe 2 s t e a r y l e t h e r B Water, d e i o n i z e d C Aluminum Z i r c o n i u m T e t r a c h i o i o h y d r e x G L Y ( 5 0 % aqueous s o 1 u t 1 on ) D Preservative A
Wt% 3 0
2.0 1 4 2 6 51 0 40.0 q s
Preparation: Heat ( A ) t o 7 0 C and ( 6 ) t o 72C Add ( € 3 ) t o ( A ) i i s i n y a p r o p e l l e r s t i r r e r . Add ( C ) t o a b o u t 50C and ( D ) a t 45C A t 35C r e p l a c e water l o s t by eVdpOrdtiOri and pat;kage Stability: T h i s f o r m u l a i s s t a b l e f o r a t l e a s t f o u r weeks a t 5 C , 2 5 C , 40C and f o r f o u r f r e e z e - t h a w c v c l e s . Viscosity: The v i s c 0 s i t . y o f t h e f o r m u l a a f t e r one week a t 25C was 2 , 9 6 0 c p s . A f t e r f o u r weeks i t was 2 , 6 0 0 c p s . Formula AE-14
SOURCE:
ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
70
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
R m - O n Antiperspirants A r l a m o l ISML, i s o s o r b i d e m o n o l a u r a t e i s a l s o f u n c t i o n a l a s a n e m o l l i e n t i n r o l l - o n f o r m u l a s d u e t o i t s p l e a s a n t f e e l on t h e s k i n a n d c o m p a t i b i l i t y w i t h t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s . The f o l l o w i n g f o r m u l a i l l u s t r a t e s i t s use w i t h aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e . ACH F o r m u l a
Wt%
I m r e d ients: A . A r l a m o l ISML, i s o s o r b i d m o n o l a u r a t e A r l a m o l E , POP ( 1 5 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 7 2 1 , POE ( 2 1 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 7 2 , POE ( 2 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r
3.0 3.0 1.5 2.5
B . Water
49.0
C.
A l u m i n u m c h l o r o h y d r a t e (50?0 s o l u t i o n )
D.
P r e s e r v a t iv e
40.0 1.o
Suggested P r e p a r a t i o n : H e a t A t o 70C a n d B t o 7 2 C. Add B t o A u s i n g a p r o p e l l e r . Add C a t a b o u t 50C a n d D a t a b o u t 4 5 C. A t 35C a d d w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . S t a b i 1 it y : The a b o v e f o r m u l a i s s t a b l e f o r a t l e a s t f o u r weeks a t 40C and 50C a n d f o r a t l e a s t f o u r f r e e z e - t h a w c y c l e s . I t h a s a v i s c o s i t y o f 2240 c p s . a t 25C. A1 z r T e t r a c h l o r o t h y d r e x - G L Y
Form-
Ingredients: A . Arlamol ISML, isosorbide monolaurate A r l a m o l E , POP ( 1 5 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 7 2 1 , POE ( 2 1 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 7 2 , POE ( 2 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r 8 . Water
Wt% 4.0 3.0 1.5 2.5 48.0
C.
A1 Z r T e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x - g l y
D.
Preservative
(50% a q u e o u s s o l u t i o n )
40.0
1.
o
Suggested P r e p a r a t i o n : H e a t A t o 70C a n d B t o 7 2 C. Add B t o A u s i n g a p r o p e l l e r . Add C a t a b o u t 50C a n d D a t a b o u t 45C. A t 35C a d d w a t e r t o c o m p e n s a t e f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . S t a b i 1 it y : T h i s f o r m u l a i s s t a b l e f o r a t l e a s t f o u r weeks a t 5C, 25C, 40C, a n d f o r f o u r f r e e z e - t h a w c y c l e s .
SOURCE: ICI
Surfactants:
Arlamol
ISML
Suggested Formulations
Antiperspirants and Deodorants
11
R o l l on D e o d o r a n t E m u l s i o n Component: I.Emulgade S E / G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 Ceteareth-12 (and) C e t e a r y l Alcohol (and) C e t y l Palmi t a t e Eumulgin B 2/Ceteareth-20 C e t i o l LC/Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Cet io l O E / D i c a p r y l y l E t h e r Hydagen C . A . T . / T r i e t h y l C i t r a t e I I . W a t e r , deion.
(and) 4.5 1. o 5.0 5.0 2.0 73.5
I I I . C a r b o p o 1 980 ( 2 % s o l . ) NaOH ( 1 % s o l . )
7.5 1.5
9.s. Preservative V i s c o s i t y , mPas: 4400 B r o o k f i e l d , 23C pH-Value: 5 Preparation i n the Laboratory: 1 . Heat phase I t o 85C and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. 2 . Heat phase I 1 t o 85C and s t i r s l o w l y i n t o phase I , e m u l s i f y f o r 5 min. 3. Allow t h e emulsion t o cool w i t h s t i r r i n g , a v o i d i n g t h e incorporation o f ai r . 4 . Add phase 111 a t 30C. F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 93/060/23
Antiperspirant S p r ~ Component: Wt% I.Emulgade S E / G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 ( a n d ) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) C e t y l Palmi t a t e 4.5 1.o Eumul g i n B 2 / C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 C e t i o l LC/Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 5.0 C e t i o l OE/Dicapryl Ether 5.0 I I . W a t e r , demin. 15.8 I I I . W a t e r , demin. 48.7 1V.Locron L 20.0 Aluminum C h l o r o h y d r a t e , P r e s e r v a t i v e , Perfume q.s. pH-Val ue: 4 . 2 V i s c o s i t y , 23C, mPas, B r o o k f i e l d : < l o 0 Preparation i n t h e Laboratory: 1 . Heat phase I t o 85C and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. 2 . Heat phase I 1 t o 85C and s t i r s l o w l y i t n o phase I. 3 . S t i r phase I 1 1 ( w h i c h i s a t room t e m p e r a t u r e ) s l o w l y i n t o t h e h o t e m u l s i o n 1/11 ( 8 0 C ) . 4 . A l l o w t h e e m u l s i o n t o c o o l w i t h s t i r r i n g i n such a way t h a t i t remains i n c o n t i n u a l m o t i o n . Avoid i n c o r p o r a t i o n o f a i r . Add phase I V a t 30C. Formul a t i on N o . : F - l 7 2 4 / 3 0 2 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
72
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Stick Antiperspirants A r l a m o l ISML, i s o s o r b i d e m o n o l a u r a t e i s a n e x c e l l e n t c h o i c e f o r an e m o l l i e n t i n a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s y s t e m s . I n s t i c k f o r m u l a s i t p r o v i d e s a s m o o t h , d r y f e e l a n d shows d r a m a t i c i m p r o v e m e n t i n a n t i - w h i t e n i n g and a n t i - f l a k i n g c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s p r o v e n b y p a n e l s t u d i e s . I n t h e f o r m u l a below c o n t a i n i n g aluminum c h l o r ohydrate, t h e e f f i c a c y improved w i t h t h e presence o f Arlamol ISML v s . t h e c o n t r o l w i t h o u t i t .
I n g r e d i e_ns;-t C y c l o m e t h i cone A r l a m o l ISML, i s o s o r b i d e m o n o l a u r a t e Stearyl alcohol A 1 umi num c h l o r o h y d r a t e p o w d e r Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l
wts/, 45.0 10.0 15.0
25.0 5.0
Suggested P r e p a r a t i o n f o r A n t i p e r s p i r a n t S t i c k s : H e a t A r l a m o l ISML, i s o s o r b i d e m o n o l a u r a t e , s t e a r y l a l c o h o l , a n d h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l t o 70C o r u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y m e l t e d . S l o w l y add a n t i p e r s p i r a n t a c t i v e w i t h s t i r r i n g w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g 70C. When a n t i p e r s p i r a n t a c t i v e i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d , remove f r o m h e a t a n d c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l t e m p e r a t u r e d r o p s t o 60C. A t t h i s p o i n t a d d t h e c y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a t 6 0 C ) t o t h e m i x t u r e , s t i r w e l l , add f r a g r a n c e and p o u r i n t o s t i c k s l u s t b e f o r e m i x t u r e s e t s up. Cool r a p i d l y t o a v o i d any s e t t i n g o f dispersed antiperspirant active. E x c e l l e n t a p p l i c a t i o n , a n t i -whi t e n 1 n g , and a n t i - f l a k i n g p r o p e r t i e s r e s u l t e d w i t h t h e f o l l o w i n g f o r m u l a (compared t o a c o n t r o l w i t h o u t A r l a m o l ISML e m o l l i e n t ) c o n t a i n i n g a l u m i n u m z i r c o n i u m t e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x - g l y as t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t . E f f i c a c y s t u d 1 es were n o t d e t e r m i ned ~. Ingr
edients: Cvclomethicone A r l a m o l ISML, i s o s o r b i d e m o n o l a u r a t e A1 Z r T e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x - g l y S t e a r y l a1 c o h o 1 Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l Fragrance
SOURCE:
ICI
Americas:
ARLAMOL ISML S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
WJ c/, 48.5
10.0 20.0 16.0
5.0 0.5
Section ll
Baby Products
13
74
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Ba by_
Cream
Concept S t a t e m e n t : A r i c h e m o l l i e n t cream c o n t a i n i n g I S L f o r m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s s u i t a b l e f o r baby s k i n . _I n x e d i.en3.s:.
1. 2. 3. 4.
R i t a EGMS ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e ) Stearic Acid Mineral O i 1 R i t a w a x ALA ( C e t y l A c e t a t e a n d A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n Alcohol) 5. Ritalan (Lanolin O i l ) 6 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 7 . Propyl paraben 8 . P a t i o n i c ISL ( S o d i u m I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 1 0 . P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 1 1 .TEA 50% 12.Methylparaben 13.Germall I 1
Wt% 9.00 2.00 8.00 1.oo 1.oo 0.50 0.10 2.00 73.60 1.50 0.90 0.20 0.20
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 - 8 a n d h e a t t o 70C. Combine i t e m s 9 - 1 3 a n d h e a t t o 70C. Add o i l t o w a t e r a n d m i x u n t i l c o o l . F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . No. 1 2 3 - 1 0 Baby Shampoo Concept S t a t e m e n t : A s u p e r m i l d shampoo f o r g e n t l e c l e a n i n g . s h i n y a n d e a s y t o comb. Ingredients:
1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 2 8 % ) 3 . L a u r a m i d e DEA 4 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 5. Ritabate-20 (Polysorbate-20) 6 . R i t a p a n DL ( P a n t h e n o l ) 7. Methylparaben 8 . Sucrose Cocoate 9 . Sodium C h l o r i d e (25%) 1 0 . P a t l a c LA ( L a c t i c A c i d )
Makes h a i r s o f t , Wt% 55.90 30.00 5.00 2.00 2.00 0.50 0.10 3.00
1 .oo
0,50
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : H e a t i t e m 1 t o 70C. Add i t e m s 2 t o 8 , i n o r d e r , b r i n g i n g t h e t e m p e r a a t u r e b a c k t o 70C a f t e r e a c h a d d i t i o n a n d s t i r u n t i l c l e a r . Cool t o 40C. Add i t e m 9 . Add i t e m 10 t o a d j u s t pH b e t w e e n 6.5-7.0. F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . No. 1 2 3 - 1 1 SOURCE: R i t a C o r p . :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Baby Products
15
B a b y Hair Conditioner Formulation
Natrosol HEC provides a rich appearance to this product by raising the viscosity from less than 100 to 3,400 cps (mPas). This crystal-clear conditioner provides gentle conditioning, detangles, and allows easy wet and dry combing. Inqredients: Natrosol 250HHR CS Water Cetrimonium chloride ( 2 5 % ) Lauramine oxide (30%) Polyquaternium-17 ( 6 2 % ) Propylene glycol Perfume, preservative
Wt%
1.0 74.1 12.2 10.2
1.5 1.0 q.s. to 100.0
Procedure: 1. Disperse Natrosol in water with good agitation. Mix until fully dissolved. 2. Add the remaining ingredients in the order listed, mixing well between additions. (Brookfield viscosity at 30 rpm, 25C=3,420 cps [mPasl) SOURCE: Aqualon Division, Hercules Inc.: Suggested Formulation B a b y ShamDOO
Clear, 14.9% active ingredient Raw Materials: Genapol LRO liquid (Sodium Laureth Sulfate)
Wt%
A:
15.00
B: Genapol AMG (Magnesium PEG-3 Cocamide Sulfate) Fragrance Water Dyestuff solution Preservative Extrapon chamomile special Gelita Sol C (Hydrolyzed Collagen) Genagen CAB (Cocamidopropyl Betaine)
20.00
C: Genapol L-3 (Laureth-3) Procedure: 1. Stir the components of B one after another into A. 2 . If necessary adjust the pH. 3 . Finally adjust the viscosity with C. SOURCE: Hoechst Aktiengesellschaft: Formulation B I/4036
0.30
48.60
q.s. q.s. 2.00
1.00 12.00 1.10
16
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Baby Lotion
Concept Statement: A light baby lotion combining the emollience of Ritalan, Ritachol and Ritawax, with Pationic ISL, for additional moisturization. Wtrg Inqredients: 1. Rita GMS (Glyceryl Stearate) 3.00 2. Pationic SSL (Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate) 2.00 3. Ritalan (Lanolin Oil) 3.00 4. Ritachol (Mineral Oil and Lanolin Alcohol) 10.00 5. Ritawax ALA (Cetyl Acetate and Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol ) 1.00 6. Propylparaben 0.10 7. Pationic ISL (Sodium Isostearoyl Lactylate) 2.00 8. Distilled/Deionized Water 74.70 4.00 9. Propylene Glycol 10.Methylparaben 0.20 11.Germall I1 0.20 12.Fragrance 0.20 Compounding Procedure: Combine ingredients 1-7 and heat to 70C. Combine water with ingredients 9-11 and heat to 70C. Add oil phase and mix until cool. Add ingredients 12. Formulation Ref. No. 123-18B B a b y Lotion
Concept Statement: A light baby lotion containing Ritalan and Ritawax for emollience and Pationic ISL for moisturization. Inqredients: Wt% 1. Rita CA (Cetyl Alcohol) 2.00 2. Rita GMS (Glyceryl Stearate) 2.50 3. Pationic SSL (Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate) 0.75 4. Ritalan (Lanolin Oil) 3.00 5. Ritachol (Mineral Oil and Lanolin Alcohol) 6.00 6. Ritawax ALA (Cetyl Acetate and Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol ) 1.00 7. Pationic ISL (Sodium Isostearoyl Lactylate) 0.50 8. Methylparaben 0.20 9. Propylparaben 0.10 lO.Distilled/Deionized Water 79.55 11.Propylene Glycol 4.00 12.Germall I1 0.20 13.Fragrance 0.20 Compounding Procedure: Combine items 1-9 and heat to 8 0 C . Combine items 10-12 and heat to 80C. Add oil to water and mix until uniform. Allow to cool and add item 13. Formulation Ref. No. 123-24 SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp.: Suggested Formulations
Baby Products
17
B a b r Cot l-0-Q Concept S t a t a m e n t : A l i g h t baby l o t i o n c o m b i n i n g t h e e r n o l l i e n c e o f R i t a l a n , R i t a c h o l and R i t a w a x , w i t h R i t a v e n a - 5 , t o g i v e a s o f t s k i n f e e l . I n g r e d i e-nt-s;. 1 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 2. Mineral O i l 3. S t e a r i c A c i d 4 . Ritalan (Lanolin O i l ) 5 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 6 . R i t a w a x ALA ( C e t y l A c e t a t e a n d A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n Alcohol ) 7 Propyl paraben 8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 9 . R i t a v e n a - 5 ( H y d r o l y z e d Oat F l o u r ) 10.Propylene Glycol 1 I . T E A (50%) 12.Methylparaben 13.Germall I 1 I4.Fragrance I
Wt% 1.oo 9.00 2.00 3.00 1 .oo 1 .oo 0.10 74.70 2.00 4.00 1.60 0.20 0.20 0.20
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i n g r e d i e n t s 1 - 7 a n d h e a t t o 7 0 C . H e a t 30% o f t h e w a t e r p o r t i o n t o 9OC a n d m i x w i t h i n g r e d i e n t 9 i n b l e n d e r . C o m b i n e r e m a i n i n g 70% o f t h e w a t e r w i t h i n g r e d i e n t s 1 0 - 1 3 a n d h e a t t o 70C. Add R i t a v e n a - 5 m i x t u r e a n d m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add o i l p h a s e a n d m i x u n t i l c o o l . Add i n g r e d i e n t 1 4 . F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . No. 1 2 3 - 9 D i a p e r Ras-h O i n t m e n t Concept S t a t e m e n t : A s o o t h i n g ointment t o reduce t h e i r r i t a t i o n o f rashes, c o m b i n i n g t h e e m o l l i e n t p r o p e r t i e s o f L a n o l i n , R i t a I P P and R i t a SSO. Ingredients; 1. Petrolatum 2 . L a n o l i n USP, X - t r a Deo 3. R i t a IPP (Isopropyl Palmitate) 4 . R i t a SSO ( S u n f l o w e r Seed O i l ) 5. Zinc Oxide
wto/c 39.20 14.30 14.30 3.60 28.60
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 - 4 a n d h e a t t o 65C. S l o w l y a d d i t e m 5 w h i l e m i x i n g . I f n e c e s s a r y , u s e h i g h shear m i x i n g and m i x u n t i l uni form. F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . No. 1 2 3 - 1 2 SOURCE: R , I . T . A .
C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
18
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
B a b y Shampoo
A liquid shampoo which has a low order of eye irritation can be made by carefully selecting the detergents. In the following baby shampoo, the combination of anionic and amphoteric surfactants with G-4280 produces a formula which should be mild, effective and esthetically appealing. Inqredients: A G-4280 Sodium trideceth sulfate Lauroamphodiacetate Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine Sodium laureth-13 carboxylate Water Preservative
wt% 20.0 12.0 5.0 2.5 2.0 53.5 q.s.
B PEG-150 distearate
5.0
C Citric acid
q.s.
Preparation: Mix (A) with gentle stirring and heat until homogeneous. Heat to around 60C and add (B) and continue stirring. When clear, cool and adjust pH to 6.8 with (C). Replace water lost by evaporation. Formula HC-5 Baby Shampoo
Tween 20 Polysorbate 20 has been used as an effective antiirritant for shampoos. Insredients: A Tween 20 polysorbate 20 Cocoamphodiacetate Sodium lauryl sulfate Sodium laureth sulfate PEG-150 distearate Propylene glycol Water B Citric acid
Wt%
6.0 6.0 3.0 3.0 4.0 3.0 75.0 q.s
Preparation: Mix (A) with gentle stirring and heat until homogeneous. Adjust pH to 5 . 0 to 5.5 with (B). Formula HC-6
SOURCE: ICI Surfactants: Suggested Formulations
Baby Products
19
Baby Shampoo Concept S t a t e m e n t : A g e n t l e shampoo c o n t a i n i n g R i t a t a i n e B and P a t i o n i c I S L f o r m i l d n e s s and m o i s t u r i z a t i o n . Ingredients: 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . Sodium Lauroamphoacetate 3 . Sodium T r i d e c e t h S u l f a t e 4 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 5 . R i t a t a i n e B (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) 6 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 7 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 8 . PEG-80 S o r b i t a n L a u r a t e 9. Glydant 10. F r a g r a n c e 1 1 . C i t r i c Acid
wt.% 47.10 15.00 10.00 5.00 4.00 3.00 0.50 15.00 0.20 0.20 q.s.
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1-8 and h e a t t o 70C. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m and a l l o w t o c o o l . Add i t e m s 9 and 10. A d j u s t pH w i t h i t e m 1 1 t o 6.0-6.5. F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . No. 123-22 P e a r l i z e d Baby B a t h Concept S t a t e m e n t : A p e a r l i z e d body wash d e s i g n e d t o be g e n t l e f o r baby c a r e , c o m b i n i n g t h e m i l d n e s s o f P a t i o n i c I S L and R i t a t a i n e B . Lng-redi e n t s :
1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) Sodium T r i d e c e t h S u l f a t e ( 3 0 % ) R i t a t a i n e B (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) P e a r l i z i n g Agent R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) Glydant
%Wt 58.80 3.00 25.00 5.00 5.00 3.00 0.20
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat i t e m 1 t o 70C. Add i t e m s 2-7 w h i l e m i x i n g . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m and a l l o w t o c o o l . F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . No. 1 2 3 - 1 4 A
SOURCE: R.I.T.A. C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
20
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Crystal Clear Baby ShamDoo Sandopan LS-24 and Sandobet SC are mild, multi functional surfactants. Sandobet SC, a mild amphoteric, is compatible with all ionic classes. Sandobet LS-24 is very mild and additionally acts as a hydrotrope to aid in formula stability. Sandopan LS-24 eliminates latent clouding and sludging which can be caused by adverse storage conditions. Velsan D8P-3 is an emollient ester which adds body, control and conditioning. Inqredients: Deionized Water Monamid 716 Standopol ES-50 Sandobet SC liquid Sandopan LS-24 gel Dow 193 Surfactant Germaben I1 Velsan D8P-3 liquid Fragrance
wt% 60.8 3.0 11.7 21.0
0.5 1.0 1.0 1.0 qs
Procedure: Charge first four ingredients to vessel. Heat with stirring to 62C. When melted and homogeneous, add water. Cool to room temperature with stirring. Adjust pH to 5.5 with citric acid. Add Germaben I1 and Velsan D8P3 separately with stirring. Mix until homogeneous. Propertiea: pH: 5.5-6.0 Viscosity: 1100 cps % Solids: 18 Ross Miles Foam Height: 195/188 REF: CL29-41: CHS-25 Acid Balanced Shampoo Inqredients: Ammonium Lauryl Ether Sulfate Sandopan DTC acid Cocoamidopropyl Betaine Deionized Water Fragrance Potassium Hydroxide (10%)
qt%
13.30 5.50 15.60 qs
qs qs
Procedure: Heat Ammonium Lauryl Ether Sulfate and water to 50-55C and stir until solubilized. Pre-mix Sandopan DTC acid and the Cocoamidopropyl Betaine 50-55C then add to main mix. Cool to room temperature, adjust pH to 5.0 with Potassium Hydroxide. Add water to bring up to 100%. REF: CD21-281-2F: CHS-21 SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Suggested Formulations
Baby Products
W/O
21
Baby Cream
F o r m u l a S K - 1 4 i s a w a t e r - i n - o i l z i n c o x i d e cream w h i c h f u n c t i o n s w e l l as a p r o t e c t i v e p r o d u c t . The f o r m u l a may be modified t o i n c l u d e Vitamin A, Vitamin D, antihistamines, a n a l g e s i c s , c o d l i v e r o i l o r P e r u Balsam t o p r o v i d e a d i a p e r r a s h t r e a t m e n t . T h i s cream i s e x c e p t i o n a l l y s t a b l e and s p r e a d s e a s i l y on t h e s k i n . The c o m b i n a t i o n o f S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n , USP and A r l a c e l 186 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e i n t h e r a t i o o f 9 : l f o r m s a u n i q u e g e l base e m u l s i f i c a t i o n s y s t e m . I t p r o v i d e s a w a t e r i n - o i l e m u l s i o n w h i c h l e a v e s an u n u s u a l l y n o n g r e a s y , n o n t a c k y f i l m on t h e s k i n s u r f a c e and i m p a r t s a h i g h d e g r e e o f w a t e r r e p e l 1e n c y .
W/O Baby Cream Ingredients: 186 Sorbitol Solution, B Mineral o i l Beeswax C e r e s i n wax C Z i n c O x i d e , USP D Water Preservative
>W
A Arlacel
3.0 27.0 10.0 1.o 1.o 20-0 38.0
USP
q.s.
Preparation: ( A ) Add t h e S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n s l o w l y t o t h e A r l a c e l 186 w i t h c o n t i n u o u s a g i t a t i o n a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . Add (5) t o ( A ) and h e a t t o 70C. Add (C) and mix t o u n i f o r m d i s p e r s i o n . Heat ( D ) t o 72C. Add ( D ) t o ( A , B, C) and m i x u n t i l room t e m p e r a t u r e i s r e a c h e d . Rep1 ace w a t e r 1 o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n . M i 11 t o i m p r o v e smoothness and s h e l f l i f e . A t y p i c a l m i n e r a l o i l - b a s e d baby l o t i o n i s i l l u s t r a t e d b y F o r m u l a SK-14
Baby L o t i o n mredients: A Mineral o i l Cetyl alcohol S i l i c o n e F l u i d , 1000 c s A r l a c e l 60 S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e Tween 60 P o l y s o r b a t e 60 B Water
Preservative
Wt% 20.0 5.0 5.0 2.5 7.5 60.0 a.s
Preparation : Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( 8 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) . S t i r u n t i l c o o l . R e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n . Formula SK-I 5
SOURCE:
I C I S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Section Ill Bath and Shower Products
22
Bath and Shower Products
After Bath/Shower Milky Lotion Part: A A A A
B B
B
Raw Material: Deionized Water Monalac MPL Monalac MO Glycerin Monalac ML Cetearyl Alcohol Oleyl Alcohol
wt% 87.5 2.0 2.5 2.0
3.0 2.0
1.0
Procedure: Heat both parts separately to 70C. Add Part B to Part A and homogenize well at 70-75C. Stir cool with minimal aeration to 40-45C and add fragrance, preservative, etc. Adjust the pH to 5.0-6.0 then fill. Physical Properties: Appearance: Milky lotion Formulation F-697 After Bath/Shower Soft Milky Creme -~ Part: A A A A
B B B
Raw Material: Deionized Water Monalac MPL Monalac MO Glycerin Monalac ML Cetearyl Alcohol Oleyl Alcohol
wt% 75.0 4.0 5.0 4.0 6.0 4.0 2.0
Procedure: Heat both parts separately to 70C. Add Part B to Part A and homogenize well at 70-75C. Stir cool with minimal aeration to 40-45C and add fragrance, preservative, etc. Adjust the pH to 5.0-6.0 then fill. Formulation F-698 SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Suggested Formulations
23
24
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
After-Shower Part: A A
A A
M i 1k v L o t i o n
Wt%
Raw M a t e r i a l : D e i o n i z e d Water M o n a l a c MPL M o n a l a c MO G1 y c e r i n
07.5 2.0 2.5 2.0
M o n a l a c ML 3.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.0 B 0 1 e y l A1 c o h o l 1.o Procedure: H e a t b o t h p a r t s s e p a r a t e l y t o 70C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A a n d h o m o g e n i z e w e l l a t 70-75C. S t i r c o o l w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n t o 40-45C a n d a d d f r a g r a n c e , p r e s e r v a t i v e , e t c . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 - 6 . 0 then f i l l . B B
After-Shower
_Part: A A A A
S o f t M i 1 ky Creme
Wt%
Raw M a t e r i a l : D e i o n i z e d Water M o n a l a c MPL M o n a l a c MO G1 y c e r i n
75.0 4.0 5.0 4.0
M o n a l a c ML 6.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 4.0 01 e y l A l c o h o l 2.0 Procedure: H e a t b o t h p a r t s s e p a r a t e l y t o 70C. Add P a r t B a n d P a r t A a n d homogenize w e l l a t 70-75C. S t i r c o o l w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n t o 40-45C a n d a d d f r a g r a n c e , p r e s e r v a t i v e , e t c . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 - 6 . 0 then f i l l . B B B
After-Shower Part: A A
A A A
F l o w a b l e M i 1 ky C r e r n e / L o t i o n
Raw M a t e r i a l : Dei o n i zed Water M o n a l a c MPL M o n a l a c MO Monaquat SL-5 G1 y c e r i n
W B 72.0 4.0 5.0 3.0 4.0
B B
M o n a l a c ML 6.0 C e t e a r y l A1 cohol 4.0 B 01 e y l A 1 c o h o l 2.0 Procedure: H e a t b o t h p a r t s s e p a r a t e l y t o 70C. Add P a r t B a n d P a r t A a n d homogenize w e l l a t 70-75C. S t i r c o o l w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n t o 40-45C a n d a d d f r a g r a n c e , p r e s e r v a t i v e , e t c . A d j u s t pH t o 5.0-6.0 then f i l l .
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c , : F o r m u l a t i o n F-726
Bath and Shower Products
25
Bath Gel A more complex surfactant system has been selected for this pearlescent bath gel to provide thorough, yet gentle cleansing. Glucamate DOE-120 is used to thicken the product to a gel like consistency. The incorporation of Polyox WSR N-3000 ensures good slip and lubricating properties and improves foam feel. Glucam E-10 functions as a humectant. The bath gel produces a rich, creamy foam which rinses easily while leaving a soft, emollient feel on the skin. Inqredients: Wt% Texapon NSO (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) 9.00 Plantaren 2000 (Decyl Glucoside) 1.00 Texapon SB-3 (Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate) 1.00 Dehyton G (Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate) 2.50 Euperlan PK 3000-AM 1.00 Glucamate DOE-120 (PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate) 1.00 Deionized Water 82.70 POlyOX WSR N-3000 (PEG-14M) 0.05 Glucam E-10 (Methyl Gluceth-10) 1.00 Sodium Chloride 0.75 Preservative and Fragrance q.s. Disperse Glucamate DOE-120 in part of the water with moderate agitation and gentle heating (45-5OC). Remove heat. Add the surfactants. Adjust pH. Separately disperse Polyox WSR N-3000 in Glucam E-10. Add water. Add this premix to the surfactant system. Add preservative and fragrance. Adjust pH. Package. Viscosity: 7,900 cps (ZOC, LVT, 3, 12 rpm) pH: 6.5 Formulation E941-131-28 Shower Gel for Sensitive Gel This pearlescent shower gel is based on a mild cleansing system thickened synergistically by the combination of Glucamate DOE-120 and lauryl glucoside. This shower gel has low washing active solids (WAS) of 6.0%. Ucare Polymer LK has been selected to provide protective conditioning. Glucam E-20 is used for emollience and humectance. This low WAS shower gel is intended for sensitive or dry skin. It cleanses gently and provides a soft, conditioned feel to the skin. Inqredients: Wt% Standapol ES-2 (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) 4.00 Plantaren 1200 (Lauryl Glucose) 10.00 Euperlan PK 3000-AM 1.00 Glucamate DOE-120 (PEG-120 Methyl Glucoside Dioleate) 0.75 Deionized Water 83.15 Glucam E-20 (Methyl Gluceth-20) 1.00 Ucare Polymer LK (Polyquaternium-10) 0.10 Preservative and Fragrance q.s. Disperse Ucare Polymer LK in water with moderate agitation and gentle heating to 50C. Add Glucamate DOE-120 and continue heating until the Glucamate DOE-120 has dissolved. Add the surfactants. Add Glucam E-20. Add preservative and fragrance. Adjust pH to 6.5. Package. Formulation E942-021-15 SOURCE: Amerchol: Suggested Formulations
26
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
B a t h Gel w i t h V i t a m i n E M o i s t u r i z i n n Beads T h i s s p a r k l i n g b l u e b a t h g e l c r e a t e s l u x u r i o u s foam, and f e a t u r e s g e l a t i n beads w h i c h c o n t a i n V i t a m i n E and m i n e r a l o i l t o m o i s t u r i z e and n o u r i s h t h e s k i n . I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . A c r y l a t e s / C 1 0 - 3 0 A1 k y l A c r y l a t e C r o s s p o l ymer/ C a r b o p o l ETD 2020 3 . Propylene Glycol 4 . Sodium H y d r o x i d e (18%) 5 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e / S t a n d a p o l ES-3 6. Propylene G l y c o l , D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben/Germaben I 1
Wt% 45.93 1.20 6.00 0.40 30.00 1.oo
P a r t 8: 7 . D e i o n i z e d Water 8 . Benzophenone-4/Uvi nu1 MS-40 9 . D i s o d i u m EDTA
5.00 0.02 0.10
Part C: 10.Sodium H y d r o x i d e (18%) 11.Cocoamidopropyl Betaine/Incronam 3 12.Fragrance/J9262 1 3 . P o l y s o r b a t e 20/ ween 2 0 1 4 . W h i t e Beads w / V t a m i n E / L i p o p e a r l s 15.FD&C B l u e # I ( 0 1%) 16.D&C Green #5 ( 0 1 % )
2.40 4.00 0.60 0.80 1 .oo 0.05 1.50
P r o p e r t i es : C o l o r , Odor, Appearance: V i s c o u s , pH: 6 . 6 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) : 5,500-6,500 Y i e l d V a l u e ( d y n e s / c m 2 ) : 300-400 C l a r i t y ( % T ) : 50-60
c l e a r b l u e g e l w i t h beads
Preparation Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l ETD 2020 i n warm (40C) d e i o n i z e d w a t e r u s i n g r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Reduce m i x i n g speed a f t e r p o l y m e r i s d i s persed. 2 . Add P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l and Sodium H y d r o x i d e . A l l o w any a i r t o escape b e f o r e p r e - n e u t r a l i z i n g . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add r e m a i n ingredients i n Part A i n order. 3 . Pre-combine P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat w a t e r t o d i s s o l v e . Add Part B t o Part A. 4 . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r t o b a t c h . Precombine f r a g r a n c e and Tween 20 b e f o r e a d d i n g t o b a t c h . M i x u n t i l uni form.
SOURCE: B . F ,
Goodrich Co.:
Formulation
COO76
Bath and Shower Products
27
Bath and Shower Cleanser This high-foaming mild cleanser formulation is highly substantive to the skin and will leave a silky talc-like after-feel. Inqredient: Water Sodium Laureth (1) Sulfate ( 2 5 % ) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (30%) Monalac MPL Monalac MO Monalac MAB Sodium Chloride
Wt$ 45.0 35.0 10.0 2.0 2.0
5.0 1.0
Adjust the pH to 6.0 Appearance: Clear Viscous Liquid Solids ( 8 ) : 16 Viscosity at 25C: 7 2 0 0 CP Features: Lather and foam enhancement Extra conditioning for skin and hair Excellent viscosity building properties Contributes gentle cleansing Low irritation potential Cationic at acidic pH
Facial Cleanser This formulation provides gentle and thorough cleansing, while providing a soft, clean feel to the skin. Inqredient: Water Sodium Chloride Sodium Laureth ( 2 ) Sulfate (25%) Monalac MO Monalac MAB Monalac MPL
Wt$ 55.0 1.0 35.0 2.0 5.0 2.0
Adjust the pH to 6.0 Appearance: Clear viscous liquid Viscosity at 25C: 7 2 0 0 CP Solids ( % ) : 14 Features: Lather and foam enhancement Extra conditioning for skin and hair Excellent viscosity building properties Contributes gentle cleansing Low irritation potential Cationic at acidic pH
SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: MONALAC Suggested Formulations
28
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Bath and Shower Gel A gentle foaming bath and shower gel designed to thoroughly deep cleanse and refresh the skin without disturbing the skin's natural moisture balance. Insredient/Trade Name: Part A: Deionized water Polyquaternium-lO/Ucare Polymer JR-125 Citric Acid Tetrasodium EDTA/Hamp-ene 220 Methyl paraben Sodium PCA/Ajidew N-50 Part B: Sodium Laureth Sulfate/Carsonol SLES-2 TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate/Amisoft CT-12 Cocamidopropyl Betaine/Lonzaine C PEG-150 Distearate/Kessco PEG-6000 Distearate Lauramide DEA/Monamid 716
Wt% 26.596 0.200
0.100 0.100 0.150 1.000
45.000 15.000 7.500 0.700
3.000
Part C: Lavender Oil/Lavender Fleurs 40/42 Ext. D&C Violet No. 2 (0.1% Solution) D&C Red No. 33 (1.0% Solution) Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone/ Kathon CG
0.200 0.200 0.004
Part D: Sodium Chloride
0.200
0.050
Procedure: Disperse Ucare Polymer JR-125 into rapidly agitating deionized water. Heat to 70C. Add remaining Part A ingredients. Mix until uniform. Add Part B ingredients in given order. Mix at 70C until completely homogeneous. Cool to 40C. Add Part C ingredients. Mix well. Add Part D in increments as needed to obtain the desired viscosity. Continue mixing and cooling to 35C Appearance: Clear, lavender liquid pH @ 25C: 5.50-6.00 Viscosity: 7,000-12,000 cps (RVT: #5 @ lOrpm @ 25C)
SOURCE: Ajinomoto U.S.A., Inc.: Formula #60-0404-A
Bath and Shower Products
29
Wt% 13.0 A) Ammonium L a u r y 1 S u l f a t e ( 1 ) ( 2 8 . 0 % a c t i v e ) 5.7 Cocoami dopropy, 1 B e t a i n e ( 2 ) ( 3 5 . 0 % a c t i v e ) Polyquaternium-7 ( 3 ) ( 0 . 8 % a c t i v e ) 4 0 4.0 A r l a t o n e MAP C o n c e n t r a t e ( 4 ) Water q.s. 0.5 B) Sodium C h l o r i d e C) 50% P o t a s s i u m H y d r o x i d e q . s . to pH 7 . 0 D) Germaben I 1 q.s. Preparation: * S t i r ( A ) , a t room t e m p e r a t u r e , u n t i l t h e m i x t u r e i s u n i f o r m . *Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . * A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h ( C ) . *Add ( D ) Features: *Lubricious lather *Excellent cleansing *Smooth a f t e r f e e l *Amide f r e e , l o w a c t i v e s system ( 1 ) S t e p a n o l AM, ( 2 ) Tego B e t a i n L - 7 , ( 3 ) F l o c a r e C 1 0 7 , (4) C9-15 A l k y l P h o s p h a t e . Formula CP 1234
Lfl~r~5L_d_l:en.t s.;.
.
h Gel
w2 % I ngr e d i e n t-s : 28.5 A) Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 1 ) ( 2 8 0% a c t i v e ) 7.1 Cocoamidopropyl B e t a i n e ( 2 ) ( 3 5 0% a c t i v e ) 2.5 A r l a t o n e MAP C o n c e n t r a t e ( 3 ) q.s. Water 1. o B ) Sodium C h l o r i d e q . s . t o pH 6 . 5 C) 50% P o t a s s i u m H y d r o x i d e q.s. 0 ) Germaben I 1 Preparation: * S t i r ( A ) , a t room t e m p e r a t u r e , u n t i l t h e m i x t u r e i s u n i f o r m . *Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g . * A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h ( C ) . *Add (D) . Features: * E x c e l l e n t foam *Amide f r e e , l o w a c t i v e s s y s t e m *Smooth a f t e r f e e l * F e e l s good d u r i n g w a s h i n g ( 1 ) S t e p a n o l AM ( S t e p a n ) , ( 2 ) Tego B e t a i n L-7 ( G o l d s c h m i d t ) , ( 3 ) C9-15 A l k y l Phosphate. Formula CP1229 SOURCE:
ICI
Surfactants:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
30
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
C1 e a r M i 1 k-Based B u b b l e B a t h Part: A A A A A
A
Raw M a t e r i a l : Monalac MAB M o n a t e r i c COAB Monalac MO Monalac MPL D e i o n i z e d Water Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e (26%)
30.0 20.0 4.0 3.0 28.0 15.0
Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d . M i x P a r t B w e l l b e f o r e a d d i n g t o P a r t A . A d j u s t t h e pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 and add d e s i r e d p r e s e r v a t i v e s , fragrances, e t c . P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i es ; Appearance: C l e a r y e l l o w l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 25C: 6,000 c p s F o r m u l a t i o n F-695 Opaci f ie d M i 1k-Based B u b b l e B a t h Part: A A A A A
A A
B
B
Raw M a t e r i a l : Monalac MAB M o n a t e r i c COAB Monalac MO Monalac MPL Dei o n i zed Water Sodium C h l o r i d e Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e (26%) D e i o n i zed Water E s i -Cry1 1 1 S t y r e n e - A c r y l i c Copolymer
wts/, 30.0 20.0 4.0 3.0 22.5
1.o 13.0 5.0 1.5
Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d . M i x P a r t B w e l l b e f o r e a d d i n g t o P a r t A . A d j u s t t h e pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 and add d e s i r e d p r e s e r v a t i v e s , fragrances, e t c . Physical Properties: Appearance: Opaque i v o r y w h i t e l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 25C: 720 c p s F o r m u l a t i o n F-696
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Bath and Shower Products
31
C l e a r Shower G e l Raw M a t e r ia1 s : Texapon NSO/Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e P l a n t a c a r e K 5 5 / L a u r y l G l u c o s i d e ( a n d ) Cocamidopropyl B e t a i ne Lamesoft PO 6 5 / C o c o - G l u c o s i d e ( a n d ) G l y c e r y l 01 e a t e G l u a d i n W 4 0 / H y d r o l y z e d Wheat G l u t e n H y d r o l y z e d Wheat Protein NaCl Aqua, p r e s e r v a t i v e
rn 36.0 11.0
5.0 2.0 0 25 45.75 I
pH v a l u e : 5 . 5 V i s c o s i t y mPas: 4160 WAS ( % ) : 1 6 . 9 Preparation i n the Laboratory: M i x a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . A d j u s t t h e pH v a l u e , then a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h s a l t . F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 94/193/227
Shower Bath Raw M a t e r i a l s : Texapon NSO/Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e Dehyton K/Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e P l a n t a c a r e 1200 U P / L a u r y l G l u c o s i d e Lamesoft PW 45 M e t h o c e l E4M Premi urn E P / H y d r o x y p r o p y l NaCl Water Preservatives V i s c o s i t y mPas: 6 0 0 0 pH v a l u e : 5 . 5
Wt% 40.0
3.5 8.0 10.0 M e t h y l c e l l u l ose
0.5 38.0 n.B.
Preparation i n the Laboratory: O f M e t h o c e l E4M Premium EP and Water has t o be m a n u f a c t u r e d a c l e a r s w e l l i n g . Texapon NSO, Dehyton K , P l a n t a c a r e 1200 and Lamesoft PW 45 w i l l b e s t i r r e d homogeneous one a f t e r t h e o t h e r . W i t h c i t r i c a c i d t h e pH v a l u e w i l l b e f o c u s e d a t 5 . 5 . The v i s c o s i t y t u n i n g t a k e s p l a c e w i t h NaCl. F o r m u l a t i o n No. 9 6 / 0 5 6 / 7
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
32
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cream Body Shampoo T h i s p e a r l e s c e n t w h i t e cream c o n t a i n s Jordapon C I - 7 5 F l a k e and Avanel 5-150 CGN f o r m i l d n e s s and s o f t s k i n , w h i l e p r o v i d i n g v o l umi nous s i 1 ky 1 a t h e r . Part : A
_I_ w e d i e n t / T r a d e Name:
Wt%
Dei o n i zed Water 58.9 H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e / M e t h o c e l 40-100 0.1 B N a 4 EDTA 0.2 0.1 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 50% C Sodium C12-15 P a r e t h - 1 5 S u l f o n a t e / A v a n e l S - 1 5 0 CGN 2.3 Sodium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d / 27.0 Jordapon C I - 7 5 Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e / A l f o n i c 1412-A 7.0 0.5 G l y c o l S t e a r a t e / M a o. e a- EGMS 0.2 M e t h y l Paraben 2.5 Sodi um S u l f a t e 0.2 D I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germa 1 115 2.0 Dei o n i zed Water E Fragrance 0.5 Q.S C i t r i c A c i d , 50% pH: 6.3-6.8 V i s c o s i t y : 2 0 , 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f ie d # 3 @ . 5 rpm) Appearance: V i scous p e a r l e s c e n t l o t i o n Procedure: Disperse the hydroxypropyl methylcellulose i n t h e p a r t A w a t e r a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e . W i t h good p r o p e l l o r m i x i n g , add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s and a g i t a t e f o r a t l e a s t 20 m i n u t e s t o e n s u r e c o m p l e t e h y d r a t i o n . Add t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 65C. When u n i f o r m , c o o l t o 40C and add p a r t D ( p r e m i x e d ) . Add t h e f r a g r a n c e and a d j u s t t h e pH. The p r o d u c t i s i n i t i a l l y a nonviscous l i q u i d which develops i n t o a s o f t paste a f t e r s t a n d i n g a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a t i o n F-108 -~ Powdered
B a t h Foam ~. ~
Name: _W_ t % Sodium S e s q u i c a r b o n a t e / C r e x 70.0 Cocami de DEA/Mazami de JT-128 2.0 2.0 G1 y c e r i n C Fragrance Q.S Dyes Q.S. D Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e / J o r d a p o n C I Powder 15.0 E M a l t o d e x t r i n / M a l t r i n M-100 3.0 Procedure: Add p a r t A t o a r i b b o n b l e n d e r or P - K V - b l e n d e r . Premix p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s , spray onto p a r t A w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Follow w i t h t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s . Add t h e Jordapon C I Powder and m a l t o d e x t r i n , blend u n t i l uniform. F o r m u l a t i o n E-104 SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Part: A B
-Ingredient/Trade
Bath and Shower Products
33
Creamy B a t h O i l T h i s u n u s u a l b a t h o i l i s an e m u l s i o n w h i c h blooms i n t h e b a t h , r e l e a s i n g e m o l l i e n t s t h r o u g h o u t t h e w a t e r . The v i s c o s i t y i s l o w , y e t t h e s y s t e m i s s t a b l e because o f t h e b l e n d o f e f f e c t i v e S-Maz and T-Maz e m u l s i f i e r s . Wt% Part: I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: A Demi n e r a l i zed Water 41.19 Na4EDTA 0.20 Nonoxynol-S/Macol NP-9.5 0.01 Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 icate/Veegum HV 0.60 Xanthan Gum/Kelzan 0.10 Propylene Glycol 6.00 M e t h y l Paraben 0 ' 20 0 P e t r o l a t u m / P e r l a t u m 4 1 0 CG 35.00 M i n e r a l O i 1 /Drake01 9 2.00 S o r b i t a n Stearate/S-Maz 60 2.00 P o l y s o r b a t e GO/T-Maz 60 4.00 P o l y s o r b a t e 80/T-Maz 80 3.00 C D e m i n e r a l i z e d Water 5.00 Triethanolamine 0.30 C i t r i c Acid 0.20 I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germall 115 0.20 Procedure: M i x p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e main v e s s e l , h e a t i n g t o 75-8OC. I n a n o t h e r v e s s e l , b l e n d t h e p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . P r e d i s s o l v e t h e methyl paraben i n t h e propylene g l y c o l t o speed t h i s s t e p . Warm p a r t A t o 75-80C and m i x w e l l f o r 30 m i n u t e s t o e n s u r e h y d r a t i o n o f t h e Veegum and x a n t h a n gum. W i t h h i g h s h e a r m i x i n g ( e . g . a r o t o r - s t a t o r t y p e ) , add p a r t A t o p a r t B t o form t h e e m u l s i o n . M a i n t a i n good m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t h e b a t c h t o b e l o w 50C. B l e n d t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s and add t o t h e b a t c h , a d j u s t i n g t h e f i n a l pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 F o r m u l a t i o n G-104
_-
.____ Floa
t i n g Bath-Oij
A teaspoon o f t h i s o i l spreads a t h i n f i l m o f e m o l l i e n t s over t h e bath water, p r o v i d i n q t h e s k i n w i t h a verv e f f e c t i v e moistu r i zing treatment. Part: I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: wtQ/Q A PPG-30 C e t y l E t h e r / M a c o l CA-30 P 15.0 PEG-8 D i ol eate/Mapeg 400 DO 1. o Isopropyl Palmitate/Propal 39.0 Fragrance 1. o Dves ( o i l s o l u b l e ) Q.S. B Mqneral O i l / D r a k e o l 9 44.0 Appearance: C l e a r , w a t e r - w h i t e n o n v i s c o u s o i l Procedure: B l e n d t h e p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . When u n i f o r m and c l e a r , add t h e m i n e r a l o i l and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Formulation G-201
SOURCE:
PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
34
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Creamy Shower G e l
anrg d e~n ts:
W$B
Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e 2.37 Water 52.28 0.10 T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (28% 2M. E . O . ) 25.00 10.00 Sod1 um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) Sodium PCA ( a n d ) G l v c i n e ( a n d ) F r u c t o s e ( a n d ) Urea ( a n d ) N i a c i n a m i d e ( a n d ) I n o it o 1 0.25 ( a n d ) Sodium B e n z o a t e ( a n d ) L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l DATEM (Am1 l a n GST 40) 2.00 1 .oo PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate ( T e g o s o f t GC) 5.00 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F 5 0 ) 2.00 G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r e t h - 4 (Tego P e a r l N 1 0 0 ) Preservatives Q.S. Sodium C h l o r i d e A d j u s t t o des r e d v i s c o s i t y A d j u s t t o pH 5 . 5 6 . 0 i f needed C i t r i c A c i d (10%) Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e i n warm w a t e r a t 60C. 2 . Add Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e , Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e . 3 . Cool t o 40C. 4 . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r a s l i s t e d , s t i r r i n g between each a d d i t i o n . 5 . Cool t o 30-35C. Add Tego P e a r l N 1 0 0 and p r e s e r v a t i v e s . 6 . A d j u s t pH and v i s c o s i t y .
GreamYLll2.. i n- I :~ BSdY..-WaSh. L ngr edd ent.z :.
Wtsb
Phase A : G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( T e g i n EGS) 2.50 M y r i s t i c Acid 4.00 5.00 Jojoba O i l Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (28% 2M. E . O . ) 45.00 10.00 Water Phase B: Water 19.00 PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate ( T e g o s o f t GC) 2.00 Phase C : P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) PEG-55 P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l O l e a t e 2.50 ( A n t i 1 141L) Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e , e t c . Q.S. Phase D : Cocamidopropyl B e t a i ne (Tego B e t a i ne F 5 0 ) 10.00 Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A t o a p p r o x i m a t e l y 70C w h i l e m i x i n g ( a b o v e t h e m e l t i n g p o i n t o f T e g i n EGS). 2 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e as Phase A . 3 . S t i r Phase B i n t o Phase A . Cool t o 40C. 4 . Add Phase C . M i x w e l l . A v o i d a i r e n t r a p m e n t . 5 . Add Phase D w i t h s t i r r i n g . A v o i d a i r e n t r a p m e n t . SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
Bath and Shower Products
35
Creme Body Wash w i t h E m o l l i e n t s T h i s l u x u r i o u s body wash i s r i c h i n foam and m o i s t u r i z i n g , c r e a t i n g a smooth, e l e g a n t a f t e r f e e l t o t h e s k i n . I t s m i l d n e s s i s t h e r e s u l t o f s u r f a c t a n t s e l e c t i o n and l o w s a l t l e v e l . I n R r e d ie_nt / T r a d e Name : Wt% Part A: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 49.59 2. Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer/ 0.80 Carbopol ETD 2020 3 . Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 1 8 % ) 0.10 Part B: 4 . D e i o n i z e d Water 10.00 0.30 5 . Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e / H i - C a r e 1 0 0 0 6 . D i s o d i u m EDTA 0.05 P a r t C: 7 . M e t h y l G1 u c e t h - 2 0 B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v EMG-20 2.50 8 . Tocopheryl A c e t a t e / V i t a m i n E Acetate 0.20 9. Cetyl Alcohol 1 .oo l O . D i m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d , 5 000 c s 0 50 11.Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( 2 m o l e , 5 3 % ) / S t a n d a p o l ES-250 1 5 . 0 0 12.Cocoarnphoacetate ( 3 2 % ) / M i r a n o l U l t r a 8.50 13.Ammonium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e ( 3 0 % ) / J o r d a p o n ACI-30G 10.00 Part D: 14.Phenoxyethano1, M e t h y l p a r a b e n , B u t y l p a r a b e n , E t h y l p a r a b e n , and P r o p y l p a r a b e n / P h e n o n i p 0.50 15. F r a g r a n c e / B e l 1 F r a g r a n c e #J-7820, " S p o r t y " 0.50 0.06 16.D&C V i o l e t # 2 ( l . O % ) / B e l l F r a g r a n c e #J-7820 1 7 . Sodi urn H y d r o x i d e ( 1 8%) 0.40 Properties: C o l o r , O d o r , Appearance: Creamy, l i g h t l a v e n d e r gel A c t i v e s ( % ) : 13.67 PH: 6 . 1 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y (cP) : 7,500-10,500 Y i e l d V a l u e ( d y n e s / c m 2 ) : 200-400 Preparation Procedure: P a r t A : 1 . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l E T D 2020 i n warm d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . 2 . Reduce m i x i n g speed, m i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s . 3 . P a r t i a l l y n e u t r a l i z e w i t h NaOH ( 1 8 % ) . 4 . M i x 30 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l u n i f o r m . P a r t B : 5 . D i s p e r s e H i - C a r e 1 0 0 0 i n a s i d e v e s s e l (NOTE: Polymer w i l l not swell y e t ) . 6 . Add D i s o d i u m EDTA. When p o l y m e r s w e l l s , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . (NOTE: P a r t B w i l l become v e r y t h i c k i f i t i s n o t added a f t e r s w e l l i n g b e g i n s . ) Mix u n t i l uniform. P a r t C: 7 . Add 8% o f S t a n d a p o l and a l l o f Jordapon t o main b a t c h . Mix s l o w l y t o avoid a i r entrapment. 8 . I n a s i d e v e s s e l , m e l t t h e f o l l o w i n g i n g r e d i e n t s : F i n s o l v EMG, V i t a m i n E , C e t y l A l c o h o l , and D i m e t h i c o n e a t 75C. 9 . Add 7% S t a n d a p o l t o m e l t e d o i l phase, h o l d h e a t a t 65C u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add M i r a n o l U l t r a t o s i d e o i l phase, m a i n t a i n i n g temperature. 1 0 . A d d s i d e o i l / s u r f a c t a n t phase t o m a i n b a t c h . 1 1 . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Do n o t o v e r m i x . 1 2 . Add t h e f o l l o w i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g : P h e n o n i p , f r a g r a n c e , and c o l o r . 1 3 . A d j u s t pH w i t h NaOH (18%) t o 6 . 1 - 6 . 5 . SOURCE: B . F . G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n COO73 I
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
36
Economy Shower Gel D e s i g n e d f o r m i l d n e s s and Val ue, t h i s b a s i c body c l e a n s e r d e l i v e r s a t h i c k , r i c h l a t h e r . The C a r b o p o l p o l y m e r p r e v e n t s t h e s i l i c o n e o i l from creaming. Wt% I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 65.016 2. Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer/ C a r b o p o l ETD 2020 0 I90 0.12 3 . Sodium H y d r o x i d e (18%) P a r t 8: 4. D e i o n i z e d Water 8.00 0.10 5 . Guar H y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e / H i - C a r e 1000 6 . D i s o d i u m EDTA 0.05 Part C: 18.00 7 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e / S t a n d a p o l ES-250 5.00 8 . Cocoamphoacetate ( 3 2 % ) / M i r a n o l U l t r a 9 . Oimethicone/Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d , 5000 c s 0.70 lO.Phenoxyethano1, Methylparaben, Butylparaben, E t h y l p a r a b e n and P r o p y l p a r a b e n / P h e n o n i p 0.50 0.50 11 F r a g r a n c e / B e l l F r a g r a n c e #J-7820, " S p o r t y " 1 2 . FD&C Ye1 l o w #5 ( 1 .O%) 0.055 0.009 13.FD&C B l u e #1 ( 1 . 0 % ) 1.05 14.Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 1 8 % )
.
Properties: C o l o r , Odor, Appearance: Green g e l A c t i v e s (YO): 1 1 . 1 4 pH: 6 . 1 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) : 5,000-8,000 Y i e l d V a l u e (dynes/cm2) : 125-225 S t a b i l i t y : Passes 28 days a t 45C P r e p a r a t i o n Procedure: Part A: 1 . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l ETD 2020 i n warm d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . 2 . Reduce m i x i n g speed, m i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s . 3 . P a r t i a l l y n e u t r a l i z e w i t h NaOH ( 1 8 % ) . 4 . M i x 30 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Part B: 5 . D i s p e r s e H i - C a r e 1000 i n a s i d e v e s s e l (NOTE: Polymer w i l l not swell yet). 6 . Add O i s o d i u m E D T A . When p o l y m e r s w e l l s , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . (NOTE: P a r t 6 w i l l become v e r y t h i c k i f i t i s n o t added a f t e r s w e l l ing b e g i n s . ) Part C: 7 . Reduce m i x i n g speed, add t h e f o l l o w i n g i n g r e d i e n t s t o b a t c h i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g : S t a n d a p o l ES 250, M i r a n o l U l t r a . M i x u n t i l smooth. 8 . Add t h e f o l l o w i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g : D i m e t h i cone, Phenonip, f r a g r a n c e , and c o l o r . ES250, M i r a n o l U l t r a . M i x u n t i l smooth. 9 . A d j u s t pH w i t h NaOH (18%) t o 6 . 1 - 6 . 5 . SOURCE: B . F . G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n COO74
Bath and Shower Products
37
E u - w ? ! a ! S t v l e B a t h _ G el
Ingr__e_di.ent_s:. wtsb Water 54.9 T e t r a s o d i urn EDTA 0.1 S o d i u m L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( 2 8 % 2M. E . O . ) 25.0 Cocami d o p r o p y l ami n e O x i d e (Ami n o x i d WS 3 5 ) 8.0 PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e ( A n t i 1 1 7 1 ) 1.3 Jojoba O i 1 0.2 PEG-20 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( T a g a t S2) 1.o C i t r i c Acid t o pH 6 . 0 Natural Extracts 0.5 Fragrance Q.S. Preservative Q.S. Color Q.S. Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F ) 9.0 Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n ) Q.S. Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e t h e T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA i n t h e w a t e r . 2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g b e t w e e n a d d i t i o n s . A v o i d a i r entrapment. 3 . S l o w l y m i x i n t h e PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e . 4 . Add t h e C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e . 5 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h t h e 25% s o l u t i o n o f S o d i u m C h l o r i d e . NOTE: F o r a p e a r l i z e d f o r m u l a s u b s t i t u t e t h e f o l l o w i n g f o r p a r t o f the water: Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (and) G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e (and) 3.00% C o c a m i d e MEA ( a n d ) C o c a m i d e DEA ( T e g o P e a r l 8 - 4 8 ) 81 oomi ng Emol 1i e n t B a t h O i 1 T h i s i s a q u i c k blooming b a t h t h a t w i l l accept a h i g h f r a g r a n c e l o a d i n g . The D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l and PEG-25 G l y c e r y l T r i o l e a t e c o n t r i b u t e s u b s t a n t i a l l y t o t h e e m o l l i e n c y and a r e major f a c t o r s i n blooming e f f e c t . Ing-red1e n t s : D;methicone C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 8 8 5 2 ) PEG-25 G l y c e r y l T r i o l e a t e ( T a g a t TO) Avocado O i l Mineral O i l C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e g o s o f t M) Procedure: Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l
Wt% 10.00 13.00 20.00 40.00 10.00 7.00
M i x w e l l between a d d i t i o n s .
C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
38
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Exfoliating Body Scrub T h i s m i l d g e n t l y f o a m i n g body s c r u b i n c l u d e s j o j o b a beads t o e x f o l i a t e and c l e a n s e , l e a v i n g t h e s k i n f e e l i n g s m o o t h e r . I n n r e d i e n t J T r a d e Name: P a r t A: D e i o n i z e d Water Acrylates/C10-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer/ C a r b o p o l E T D 2020 T r i e t h a n o l a r n i n e (99%) D i s o d i um EDTA/Versene NA P a r t E: P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea, Propylene G l y c o l , Methylparaben, Propylparaben/Germaben I1 P a r t C: D i s o d i u m L a u r e t h S u l f o s u c c i n a t e / M a c k a n a t e EL Disodium Dimethicone Copolyol S u l f o s u c c i n a t e / Mackanate DC-30 P o l y s o r b a t e 20/Tween 20 Cocarnidopropyl B e t a i n e / I n c r o n a m 30 Sodium L a u r y l E t h e r S u l f a t e 1 ( 3 mole, 3 0 % ) / Standapol ES-3 Part D: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) Fragrance/99411 F r u i t Blend Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil/Gypsy
Rose F l o r a b e a d s
54.88
1.10 0.10
0.05 1.50 1.20 13.00
5.00 1.50 3.00 4.00 1.45 0.22 3.00
Properties: Appearance: B r i g h t r e d g e l pH: 6.0-6.5 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) : 7,200-8,200 Y i e l d Value (dynes/cm2): 300-350 C l a r i t y (TOT): 5 0 - 6 0 Preparation Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l E T D 2020 p o l y m e r i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r and allow t o hydrate. 2 . P a r t i a l l y n e u t r a l i z e t h e d i s p e r s i o n w i t h T E A i n P a r t A; m i x u n t i l homogeneous. 3 . Add d i s o d i u m EDTA and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. 4. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t 8, and add t o P a r t A; m i x u n t i l homogeneous. 5 . Add t h e s u r f a c t a n t s i n P a r t C i n d i v i d u a l l y t o P a r t A B w i t h slow continuous mixing. 6 . Add t h e T E A i n P a r t D t o c o m p l e t e t h e n e u t r a l i z a t i o n m i x u n t i l homogeneous. 7 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h c o n t nuous, slow mixing.
SOURCE: B . F . G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n COO63
Bath and Shower Products
39
Foamina B a t h O i l A m i l d and r i c h - f o a m i n g b a t h a d d i t i v e ,
i d e a l as a fragrance
vehicle Part: A
B
C
I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Demi n e r a l i zed Water Na4EDTA I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germall 115 Ammonium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e / J o r d a p o n A C I - B O G M e t h y l Paraben Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e / A l f o n i c 1412-A Cocamidopropyl B e t a i ne/Mafo C A B Cocamide DEA/Mazamide JT-128 PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate/Macol 159 Fragrance C i t r i c Acid Ammoni um Chl o r ide
Wt% 58.7 0.2 0.2 13.3 0.2 16.7 5.7 2.0
3.0 Q.S. Q.S. Q.S.
pH: 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 Appearance: C l e a r , s t r a w - c o l o r e d l i q u i d Procedure: Add t h e p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r t o t h e main v e s s e l , m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . P r e m i x t h e p a r t B components and add t o t h e main m i x . When c l e a r and u n i f o r m , a d j u s t pH and v i s c o s i t y with part C ingredients. F o r m u l a t i o n E-105 Foaminq B a t h
OiJ-
An e a s i l y - f r a g r a n c e d s o l u b l e b a t h o i l , w h i c h a l s o p r o v i d e s foaming.
__ Part: A
B
C
u r e d i e n t / T r a d c Name: D e m i n e r a l i z e d Water Na4 EDTA I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germal 1 1 1 5 Ammonium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e / J o r d a p o n ACI-30 G M e t h y l Paraben Cocami d o p r o p y l A m i ne Oxi de/Mazox C A P A P o l y s o r b a t e 20/T-Max 20 Fragrance C i t r i c Acid Ammonium C h l o r i d e
Wt% 65.4
0.2 0.2 12.0 0.2 2.0 20.0 Q.S.
Q.S. Q.S.
pH: 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 Appearance: C l e a r , s t r a w - c o l o r e d l i q u i d Procedure: Add t h e p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r t o t h e main v e s s e l , m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Premix t h e p a r t B components and add t o t h e main m i x . When c l e a r and u n i f o r m , a d j u s t pH and v i s c o s i t y with Part C ingredients. F o r m u l a t i o n E-106
SOURCE:
PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
40
Cosmetic and Todetry Formulations
Gentle Body Wash Ingredients: Water M o n a f a x MAP-230 Sodium L a u r e t h - 2 M o n a t e r i c CLV Cerasynt I P
Wt%
22.3 25.0 38.5 13.2 1.o
Sulfate
Procedure: B l e n d i n o r d e r l i s t e d , h e a t t o 65C a n d m i x s u f f i c i e n t l y . S t i r c o o l u n t i l p e a r l d e v e l o p s . Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , p r e s e r v a t i v e , and package. Appearance: White p e a r l e d l i q u i d pH: 7 . 5 S o l i d s : 26% V i s c o s i t y : 8,000 cp F o r m u l a t i o n F-678 Economical Body Wash Wt% 80 15 5
Ingredients: Water M o n a t e r g e 779 M o n a f a x MAP-230 Procedure: B l e n d i n o r d e r l i s t e d a t room t e m p e r a t u r e , a d l u s t t o pH 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 , a d d f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , p r e s e r v a t i v e a n d p a c k a g e . Appearance: C l e a r l i q u i d S o l i d s : 17% V i s c o s i t y : 2,425 cp Formu 1 a t ion F - 6 7 9 C l e a r Body Wash Ingredients: Water Ammonium L a u r e t h ( 1 ) S u l f a t e ( 2 6 % ) M o n a f a x MAP-230 P1 a n t a r e n 2000
Wt% 19.8 57.7 12.5 10.0
Procedure: B l e n d i n o r d e r l i s t e d . A d l u s t pH t o 6 . 5 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , p r e s e r v a t i v e , a n d p a c k a g e . Appearance: C l e a r v i s c o u s l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y : 1 2 , 5 0 0 CP S o l i d s : 25% F o r m u l a F-681 SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
Bath and Shower Products
41
Low Cost Body Wash A rich, high foaming, oil-free body wash which cleanses while leaving the skin with a soft smooth feel. Sequence: Raw Material/INCI Name: 1 Deionized Water 1 Uniphen P-23
68.45 0.30
2
Keltrol/Xanthan Gum
0.25
3
Liponic EG-l/Glycereth-26
0.75
4 4 4 4
Lip0 Stearic Acid Lipopeg 4-S/PEG-8 Stearate Lipocol L-4/Laureth-4 Liponate NPGC-2 Lipopeg 6000 DS/PEG-150 Distearate
2.00 1.50 1.00 1.00 0.50
5 5
Plantaren PS-100 Standamid LD/Lauramide DEA
6 6
Deionized Water Unicide U-l3/Imidazolidinyl Urea
4
20.00 3.00
1.00 0.25
Procedure: 1. Heat Sequence #1 to 78C on overhead mixer at medium/high speed. 2. Slowly add Sequence #2 to Sequence #1 with medium/high speed mixing until completely hydrated. Hold temperature at 78C. 3 . Add Sequence # 3 at medium/high speed. 4. Heat premixed Sequence #4 to 80C until clear and add to main batch at medium/high speed. Cool to 65C. 5. At 65C, add Sequence #5 ingredients in order of addition while mixing at medium/low speed. Cool to 35C. 6. At 35C, add premixed Sequence #6 at medium/low speed. Specifications: pH: 6.71-0.2 Viscosity: LVT # 4
@
12 rpm = 23,750 t-10%
SOURCE: Lip0 Chemicals Inc.: Formulation No. 9 7 7
42
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
M i l d Bubble B a t h
Wt%
Ingredients: B i o - T e r g e AS-40 A l p h a - S t e p MC-40 N i n o l LMP T e t r a s o d i um EOTA C i t r i c acid Sodium C h l o r i d e D . I . water
20.0 5.0 3.0
0.2 Q.S.
Q.S. Q.S. t o 100.0
M i x i ng Procedure: Heat w a t e r t o 50-6OC. Add f i r s t t w o components and EDTA, m i x i n g w e l l a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . Add LMP, m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Cool t o 25C. A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 7 . 0 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d . Add f r a g r a n c e , dye and p r e s e r v a t i v e as d e s i r e d . A d j u s t t o d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e . Typical Properties: Appearance: C l e a r , l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y : 200 cps @ 1 . 5 % sodium c h l o r i d e 1 1 0 0 cps @ 2 . 0 % sodium c h l o r i d e Comment: S t a b l e f o r 3 weeks a t 42C, 3 freeze/thaw cycles.
SOURCE: Stepan C o . :
2 months a t 25C,
and t h r o u g h
F o r m u l a t i o n No. 583
~ A_f _t e _ _r _B _ _a _t h T a l c ~
No. Phase 1
2 3 4
A B €3 €3
-Inaedient:. ~
Talc Perfume O i l PPG-20 M e t h y l g l u c o s e e t h e r O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia Nut O i l
Wt% 92.50 5.00 1.50
1 .oo
Manufacturing Procedure: Phase A : H o l d on s i d e . Phase €3: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and when u n i f o r m , b l e n d i n t o Phase A ( t a l c . ) . Here t h e O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i l h e l p s t h e t a l c s p r e a d and c u t s down on t h e d r y f e e l i n g o f t h e s k i n . Leaves a n i c e smooth f e e l .
SOURCE: O i l s o f A l o h a : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Bath and Shower Products
M i l k B a t h Gel
Wt%
I n n r e d ien t s : Water Kelzan S Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (26%) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 2 8 % ) Monalac MAB Monalac MPL Monalac MO Sodium C h l o r i d e Monalac ML
42.6 0.4 35.0 10.0 5.0 2.0 2.0 1. o 2.0
Procedure: B l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 60C. S t i r c o o l t o 40C, add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e as needed. A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 . Appearance: W h i t e L o t i o n V i s c o s i t y : 18,000 CP F o r m u l a t i o n F-690
w-
Icgre_die n g s l Monafax MAP 230 SLES ( 2 ) (26%) M o n a t e r i c CLV C e r a s y n t IP
32.25 49.50 17.00 1.25
Procedure: B l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s ; h e a t t o 70C. S t i r c o o l t o 4 0 C . f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d . P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i es : Appearance: P e a r l e d L o t i o n V l s c o s l t y : 4 , 0 0 0 CP F o r m u l a t i o n F-692 SOURCE:
Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Add
43
44
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
M i l k E n r i c h e d B a t h and Shower C l e a n s e r ( C l e a r ) - B Raw M a t e r i a1 : Water Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e ( 2 5 % ) Monalac MPL Monalac MO M o n a t e r i c COAB Monalac MAB
*W
46.0 35.0 2.0 2.0 10.0 5.0
Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 Physical Properties: Appearance: C l e a r l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 25C ( c P ) : 96,000 M i l k E n r i c h e d B a t h and Shower C l e a n s e r ( C l e a r ) - C Raw
M a t e r i a1 : Water Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e (25%) Monalac MPL Monalac MO Fragrance M o n a t e r i c COAB Monalac MAB
Wt% 45.0 35.0 2.0 2.0 1.o 10.0 5.0
Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 Physical Properties: Appearance: C l e a r l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 25C ( c P ) : 97,000
-_____ M i l k E n r i c h e d B a t h and Shower C l e a n s e r ( C l e a r ) - D Raw M a t e r i a1 : Water Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e (25%) Monalac MPL Monalac MO Sodium C h l o r i d e Fragrance M o n a t e r i c COAB M o n a t e r i c MAB Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 Physical Properties: Appearance: C l e a r l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 25C ( c P ) : 8 , 0 0 0
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c . : Formulation F-715
W B 44.5 35.0 2.0 2.0 0.5 1.o 10.0 5.0
Bath and Shower Products
45
M i l k E n r i c h e d B a t h and Shower C l e a n s e r ( C l e a r ) - E Raw Mat e r ig l ; Water Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e ( 2 5 % ) Monalac MPL Monalac MO Sodium C h l o r i d e Fragrance M o n a t e r i c COAB Monalac MAB M o n a s i l PLN
__ Wt% 40.5 35.0 2.0
2.0 0.5 1.o 10.0 5.0 4.0
Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d and a d j u s t p H t o 6 . 0 Physical Properties: Clear l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 25C ( c P ) : 5 , 6 0 0 F o r m u l a t i o n F-715
-______ M i l k E n r i c h e d B a t h a n d Shower C l e a n s e r [ ~Clear1
_______ Raw M a t e r i a1 : Water Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e ( 2 5 % ) Monalac MPL Monalac MO Sodium C h l o r i d e Fragrance M o n a t e r i c COAB Monalac MAB
wto/, 44.5 35.0 2.0 2.0
0.5
1.o 10.0 5.0
Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 t o 7 . 5 . P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i es : Appearance: C1 e a r l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 2 5C ( c P ) : 8 , 0 0 0 t o 5 0 , 0 0 0 v a r i e s w i t h pH & % fragrance Formul a t i on F-718
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
46
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Milk Enriched Bodv Cleanser This viscous high foaming formulation utilizes the foam stabilization, mild cleansing and conditioning properties of Monalac MO. Inaredient: Water Sodium Laureth ( 2 ) Sulfate ( 2 8 % ) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (30%) Monalac MO Monalac MPL Sodium Chloride
WtO 22.0 40.0 25.0 10.0 2.0 1.o
Adjust the pH to 5 . 5 . Features of Monalac MO: Lather and foam enhancement Extra conditioning for skin and hair Excellent viscosity building properties Contributes gentle cleansing Low irritation potential Cationic at acidic pH Gel Conditioning Bodv Cleanser This high foaming conditioning formulation provides gentle and thorough cleansing, while imparting a soft, smooth and clean after-feel. Inaredient: Water Sodium Chloride Sodium Laureth ( 2 ) Sulfate ( 2 5 % ) Monalac MAB Monalac MPL Monamid CMA Adjust the pH to 6.0 Appearance: Clear viscous liquid Viscosity at 2 5 C : 5 1 0 0 0 CP Solids ( % ) : 14 Features of Monolac MAB: Effective conditioning to skin and hair Provides mild cleansing High foaming primary surfactant Excellent viscosity building properties Anti-irritant for anionics and cationics Compatible with all surfactant types
SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Suggested Formulations
55.0 1.0 35.0 5.0 2.0 2.0
Bath and Shower Products
47
Moisturizinq Shower Lotion This shower lotion is based on a mild cleansing system thickened by Glucamate DOE-120. Cremerol HMG and Glucam E-20 are incorporated for moisturization and humectance. Promulgen D provides creaminess. Ucare Polymer JR-30M is added for longlasting conditioned skin feel. Inqredients: Texauon NSO (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) Dehykon K (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) Ucare Polymer JR-3OM (Polyquaternium-10) Deionized Water Promulgen D (Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20) Glucam E-20 (Methyl Gluceth-20) Glucamate DOE-120 (PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate Cremerol HMG (Hydroxylated Milk Glycerides) Timiron MP-1001 Supersheen (Mica and Titanium Diox de) Triethanolamine Preservative and Fragrance
Wt%
20.00 15.00 0.10 60.05 1.00 1-00 1.50 1.00 0.35 q.s. q.s.
Procedure: Heat half of the water to 15C and add Promulgen D. Disperse the Ucare Polymer JR-30M in the other half while heating to 45-50C. Add Glucamate DOE-120 and Cremerol HMG to the Ucare solution. Once a uniform solution has formed, add to the Promulgen solution with gentle agitation. Add remaining ingredients, mixing until uniform. Cool to 35C while stirring. Adjust pH to 6.5. Package. Performance Data: Viscosity: 23,500 cps (ZOC, LVT, 4, 12 rpm) pH: 6.5 SOURCE: Amerchol: Formulation E931-063-5 Moisturizinq Self-Emulsifyins Bath Oil (With AHA-Ester1 Raw Materials: Imwitor 380 (Glyceryl Cocoate/Citrate/Lactate) Miglyol 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Miglyol 840 (Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicapirate) Softisan 645 (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1) Softigen 767 (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides) Mineral Oil Aloe Vera Lip0 Quinone Extract (Aloe Vera) Color Fragrance
Wt$ 13.00 18.00 25.00 10.00 10.00 22.00 2.00 q.s. q.s.
Preparation: All ingredients are mixed together and stirred until homogeneous. SOURCE: Creanova Inc.: Formulation 5 . 2 A (3)
48
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
M o i s t u r i z i n g Shower L o t i o n T h i s shower l o t i o n i s based on a m i l d c l e a n s i n g system t h i c k ened b y Glucamate DOE-120. Cremerol HMG and Glucam E-20 a r e i n c o r p o r a t e d f o r m o i s t u r i z a t i o n and humectance. Promulgen D p r o v i d e s c r e a m i n e s s . Ucare Polymer JR-30M i s added f o r l o n g l a s t i n g conditioned skin feel. V i s c o s i t y : 23,500 c p s pH: 6 . 5 I n q r e d ie n t s : @to/, Texapon NSO (Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ) 20.00 Dehyton K ( C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) 15.00 U c a r e Polymer JR-30M ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 0.10 Dei o n i zed Water 60.05 Promulgen D ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 ) 1.oo G1 ucam E-20 ( M e t h y l G1 u c e t h - 2 0 ) 1.00 Glucamate DOE-120 (PEG-120 M e t h y l G l u c o s e D i o l e a t e ) 1.50 1 .oo Cremerol HMG ( H y d r o x y l a t e d M i 1 k G l y c e r i d e s ) T i m i r o n MP-1001 Supersheen ( M i c a ( a n d ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ) 0.35 Triethanolamine q.s. F r a g r a n c e and P r e s e r v a t i v e q.s. Procedure: Heat h a l f o f t h e w a t e r t o 75C and add Promulgen D . D i s p e r s e t h e U c a r e Polymer JR-30M i n t h e o t h e r h a l f w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 45-5OC. Add Glucamate DOE-120 and Cremerol HMG t o t h e Ucare s o l u t i o n . Once a u n i f o r m s o l u t i o n has formed, add t o t h e Promulgen s o l u t i o n w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n . Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 . N o t e : Texapon NSO i s 28% a c t i v e , max. 0 . 6 % s a l t ; Dehyton K i s 30% a c t i v e , 4 . 5 t o 5 . 5 % s a l t .
_ Shower _ _ ~ ~ Gel _ _w_i t _ h ~Low _ _Washina _ ~ Active Solids A l k y l p o l y g l u c o s e f u n c t i o n s as t h e p r i m a r y s u r f a c t a n t i n t h i s shower g e l w h i c h has l o w w a s h i n g a c t i v e s o l i d s (WAS). U c a r e Polymer LK has been s e l e c t e d t o p r o v i d e p r o t e c t i v e c o n d i t i o n i n g . Glucam E-20 i s used f o r e m o l l i e n c e and humectance. T h i s l o w WAS shower g e l i s i n t e n d e d f o r s e n s i t i v e o r d r y s k i n . I t c l e a n s e s g e n t l y and p r o v i d e s a s o f t , c o n d i t i o n e d f e e l t o skin. V i s c o s i t y : 5,300 c p s pH: 6 . 5 Inqredients: W B 4.00 Texapon NSO (Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ) 10.00 P1 a n t a r e n 1200 ( L a u r y l Pol y g l u c o s e ) E u p e r l a n PK 3000-AM ( G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) L a u r e t h - 4 ( a n d ) Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) 1-00 Glucamate DOE-120 (PEG-120 M e t h y l G l u c o s e D i o l e a t e ) 0.75 83.15 D e i o n i z e d Water 1.oo G1 ucam E-20 ( M e t h y l G1 u c e t h - 2 0 ) 0.10 U c a r e Polymer LK ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 4,s. P r e s e r v a t i v e and F r a g r a n c e Procedure: D i s p e r s e Ucare Polymer LK i n t h e w a t e r w t h g e n t l e h e a t i n g (45-5OC). Add Glucam DOE-120. S t o p h e a t i n g . Add s u r f a c t a n t s . Add Glucam E-20. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e A d j u s t pH. S O U R C E ; Amerchol : F o r m u l a t i o n s E931-063-5 & E942-021-15 ~~
Bath and Shower Products
O p a c i f i e d B a t h & Shower L i q u i d Part: A A A A A A A B
B
-t e r i a l : Raw M a D e i o n i z e d Water Sodium C h l o r i d e Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 3 0 % ) Monalac MPL Monalac MD Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e (26%) Monalac MAB
D e i o n i z e d Water E s i - C r y 1 1 1 S t y r e n e - A c r y l i c Copolymer
w t o/, 40.0 1.o 10.0 2.0 2.0 35.0 5.0 4.0 1. o
Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d . M i x P a r t B w e l l b e f o r e a d d i n g t o P a r t A . A d j u s t t h e pH t o 6.0-6.5 and add d e s i r e d p r e s e r v a t i v e s , fragrances, e t c . Physical Properties : Appearance: Opaque W h i t e L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 25C: 12,000 c p s F o r m u l a t i o n F-693 O p a - c i f i e d B a t h & Shower Liquid Gel
A A
Raw M a t e r i a1 : D e i o n i z e d Water Sodium C h l o r i d e Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 3 0 % ) Monalac MPL Monalac MO Sodium L a u r e t h (2) S u l f a t e (26%) Monalac MAB
B B
D e i o n i z e d Water E s i - C r y 1 1 1 S t y r e n e - A c r y l i c Copolymer
Part: A A A A A
W t 04 30.0 1.o 20.0
2.0 2.0 35.0
5.0 4.0 1.o
Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d . M i x P a r t B w e l l b e f o r e a d d i n g t o P a r t A . A d j u s t t h e pH t o 6.0-6.5 and add d e s i r e d p r e s e r v a t i v e s , fragrances, e t c . Physical Properties: Appearance: Opaque W h i t e L i q u i d Gel V i s c o s i t y a t 25C: 8 0 , 0 0 0 c p s F o r m u l a t i o n F-694
SOURCE:
Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
49
50
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
P e a r l i z e d Bath S a l t s Y e l l o w Green
I N C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A : Coarse S a l t C r y s t a l s M i c a ( a n d ) T i t a n i um D i o x i d e / T i m i r o n Super Green FD&C B l u e # I Aluminum Lake C39-4433 Phase B : P V P / V A Copol y m e r / l u v Isopropanol Fragrance
s k o l VA641
Wt% 99.00 0.999 0.001 0.40 3.60 q.s.
Procedure: Combine Phase A w t h g e n t l e t u m b l i n g a g i t a t i o n . Comb ne Phase B. When homogeneous, s p r a y o n t o Phase A w i t h c o n t i n u o u s t u m b l i ng a g i t a t i o n . E v a p o r a t e s o l v e n t v i a vacuum o r t r a y d r y i n g . Formula SD2-13-5 P e a r l ized B a t h S a l t s Sea Green I N C I Name/Trade N a m s Phase A : Coarse S a l t C r y s t a l s M i c a ( a n d ) T i t a n i um D i o x i d e / T i m i r o n Super Green FD&C B l u e # I Aluminum Lake C39-4433
Phase B : P V P / V A C o p o l y m e r / L u v i s k o l VA641 Isopropanol Fragrance
Wt% 99.00 0.99 0.01 0.40 3.60 q.s.
Procedure: Combine Phase A w i t h g e n t l e t u m b l i n g a g i t a t i o n . Combine Phase B . When homogeneous, s p r a y o n t o Phase A w i t h c o n t i n u o u s t u m b l i n g a g i t a t i o n . E v a p o r a t e s o l v e n t v i a vacuum o r t r a y d r y i n g . F o r m u l a SD2-13-4
SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Bath and Shower Products
Ingredients: A) Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate ( 1 ) (28.0% active) Cocoamidopropyl Betaine ( 2 ) (35.0% active) Polyquaternium-7 ( 3 ) (0.8%active) Arlatone MAP Concentrate ( 4 ) Water
~.._
6)
Sodium Chloride
C ) 50% Potassium Hydroxide D)
Germaben I 1
51
w t3
28.5
7.1 4.0
2.5 q.s.
0.5 q . s . to pH 7.0 q.s.
Preparation : *Stir (A), at room temperature, until the mixture i s uniform. *Add (B) to ( A ) with moderate stirring. *Adjust the pH with ( C ) . *Add (D) . Features: *Lubricious lather *Excel 1 ent cI eansi ng *Smooth after feel *Amide free (1)Stepanol AM (Stepan), Tego Betain L - 7 (Goldschmidt), Flocare C107 (SNF Floerger), C9-15 Alkyl Phosphate Viscosity: 11,100 cPs (Brookfield LVT, spindle 4, 30 rpm) Stability: 2 1 . 0 C (70F): 1 week 35.0C (95F): 1 week 46.0C ( l t 5 F ) : 1 week F/T: 4 freeze/thaw cycles.
SOURCE: ICI Surfactants: Formulation CP1233
52
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shower G e l _____
Wt%
Raw M a t e r i a l s : A : A c y l g l u t a m a t e CS-22 Cocamide DEA B u t y l ene g l y c o l Sodi um b e n z e d r i ne Methyl paraben Water
80.0 5.0 3.0 0.2 0.2 balance
B: Hydroxypropyl c e l l u l o s e
1.2
C: F r a g r a n c e
q.s.
Procedure D i s s o l v e ( A ) a t 70-8OC w i t h s t i r r i n g . Cool ( A ) t o 50-60C and d i s p e r s e / d i s s o l v e ( 8 ) and ( C ) i n ( A ) . Cool t o room temperature. pH: 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : 3960 mPa.s a t 25C Formul a CSB-02
_____ Shower Gel wto/, 20.0 1.o 3.0 4.0 1.4 0.2 balance
Raw M a t e r i a l s : A : A c y l g l u t a m a t e CK-1 Tween-20 Cocamide DEA 1,3-Butylene glyco
KOH Methyl paraben Water B:
1
Hydroxypropyl c e l l u l o s e
pH: 6 . 5 Viscosity:
.o
1000 mPa.s
Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) i n g r e d i e n t s a t 70-80C. Add ( B ) w i t h s t i r r i n g t o ( A ) and c o o l down i m m e d i a t e l y . Cool t o 30C. F o r m u l a CK-B-003
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A . ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Bath and Shower Products
53
Shower Gel This mild shower gel has good viscosity and foaming properties and leaves a velvety feel on the skin. Velsan P8-3 liquid is a water soluble emollient ester with a silky dry emolliency that is non-greasy. Sandopan DTC acid liquid is a multi-functional surfactant that can increase cationic deposition if a cationic conditioner is used. It also acts as a hydrotrope and performs well in hard water. Sandopan DTC acid liquid and Sandobet SC liquid are both very mild surfactants. Insredients: Wt% Standapol ES-3 46.40 10.00 Sandobet SC liquid Sandopan DTC acid liquid 5.60 Lauramide DEA 3.30 Velsan P8-3 liquid 2.00 Glucamate DOE 120 1.70 Germaben I1 1.00 Versene NA 0.10 Deionized Water qs Procedure: Hydrate Glucamate DOE 120 and Versene NA in all of the Deionized water. In a separate vessel, add remaining ingredients in order. Combine the two phases and adjust pH to 6.0. Properties: pH: 6.0 Appearance: Clear, slightly yellow, viscous gel Viscosity: 8,500 cps (Brookfield LVT viscometer, Spindle #3, 6 rpm) Ref: CL30-3: CHS-52 Water White Shower Gel Adds a velvety feel to the skin. This crystal clear shower gel has good viscosity and foaming characteristics. Insredients: Wt% Standapol ES-3 41.25 Sandopan DTC acid 10.00 Lauramide DEA 3.30 Velsan P8-3 liquid 2.00 Glucamate DOE-120 1.70 Germaben I1 1.00 Versene NA 0.10 qs Fragrance Deionized Water 40.70 qs Procedure: Hydrate Glucamate DOE-120 and Versene NA in all of the Deionized Water. In a separate vessel, add the remaining ingredients in order mixing well after each addition. Combine the two phases and mix well. Adjust pH=6.0. Properties: pH: 6.0 Viscosity: 8500 cps % Solids: 29 REF: CL30-3: CHS-51 SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Suggested Formulations
54
Cosmetic and Toiletry formulations
2 i n 1 C r e m B o d v Wash W
B
I_n.Qredie n t s i A) A r l a t o n e DUO Water Xanthan Gum ( 1 )
20.0 69.5 0.1
B ) Water Triethanolamine
5.0 0.6
C) A r l a t o n e MAP C o n c e n t r a t e ( 2 )
2.5
D) Dimethicone ( 3 )
2.0
E) Q u a t e r n i u m - 1 5 ( 4 )
q.s.
Preparation: *Heat w a t e r t o 80-85C, d i s p e r s e x a n t h a n gum and t h e A r l a t o n e DUO w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g t e m p e r a t u r e above 8OC. *Heat and s t i r ( B ) t o 8OC. *Add ( C ) t o ( 6 ) s l o w l y w i t h good a g i t a t i o n m a i n t a i n i n g 8OC until clear. *Add ( B / C ) a t 50C t o ( A ) a t 50C w i t h m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g . *Add (D) and ( E ) t o (A/B/C) m i x t u r e b e l o w 40C w i t h moderate stirring. * S t i r t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and add any w a t e r l o s t due t o evaporation. Features : * F e e l s good d u r i n g w a s h i n g *Moisturizing after feel * E x c e l 1e n t c l e a n s i n g ( 1 ) K e l t r o l ( K e l c o ) , C9-15 A l k y l Phosphate, ( 3 ) Dow C o r n i n g 2 0 0 F l u i d (Dow C o r n i n g ) , ( 4 ) D o w i c i l 2 0 0 (Dow C o r n i n g )
SOURCE:
I C I S u r f a c t a n t s : F o r m u l a CP1231
Section IV Beauty Aids
55
56
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
A H A - C l a r i - f v i n q Face Mask Formula P r o f i l e : Veegum F i s used i n t h i s f a c e mask. T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n i s f o r a l l s k i n t y p e s and t a k e s a d v a n t a g e o f t h e a b s o r b i n g and c l e a n s i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f p u r i f i e d B e n t o n i t e . T h i s f o r m u l a c o n t a i n s humecta n t s t h a t w i i l i m p r o v e t h e r e s i d u a l s k i n f e e l . The s u r f a c t a n t a i d s i n t h e r i n s a b i l i t y o f t h e d r i e d mask.
wto/, 44.75 7.0
&.?2Ce_d_l:.e.n& 5.: A:
Water Veegum F (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e )
B: G l y c e r i n B u t y l ene G1 y c o l Vancl ay ( K a o l i n ) T a l c ( C o s m e t i c Grade) Vanseal NALS-30 (Sodium L a u r o y l S a r c o s i n a t e ) C:
Preservative
D:
Glycolic Acid
E:
Fragrance
5.0 3.0 20.0 5.0 5.0 qs 7.0
qs
F: Triethanolamine
C i t r i c Acid
3.25 A d j u s t p H t o 3.7t-0.2
cis
Procedure: S t e p 1 : S i f t Veegum F i n t o an e s t a b l i s h e d v o r t e x i n w a t e r . Veegum F w i l l need a p p r o x i m a t e l y 60 m i n u t e s f o r h y d r a t i o n u s i n g a homogenizer o r up t o 3 h o u r s u s i n g a p r o p m i x e r . A d d i t i o n a l e n e r g y , such as an i n c r e a s e i n m i x i n g i n t e n s i t y o r w a t e r tempe r a t u r e , w i l l reduce h y d r a t i o n t i m e . The a d d i t i o n o f any o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s d u r i n g t h e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s w i l l i n t e r f e r e w i t h t h e h y d r a t i o n o f Veegum F and w i l l r e d u c e o r even e l i m i n a t e t h e d e s i r e d p r o p e r t i e s g e n e r a t e d b y t h e Magnesi um A 1 umi num S i 1 ic a t e , S t e p 2 : Add r e m a i n i n g w a t e r phase i n g r e d i e n t s l i s t e d i n P a r t B. S t e p 3 : Add P a r t C - P r e s e r v a t i v e . S t e p 4 : Add P a r t D - A H A - G l y c o l i c A c i d . S t e p 5 : Add P a r t E - F r a g r n c e . S t e p 6 : A d j u s t pH t o 3 . 7 w i t h P a r t F . Product S e c i f i c a t i o n s : V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d LVT D V I I S p i n d l e #TF @ 0.3 RPM:
1,000,OOOt100,000 cps
pH: 3.5-3.9 T h i s f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s a s t a b l e p r o d u c t t h a t passes 3 month s t a b i l i t y t e s t i n g a t R T , 5 C , 38C, 5 0 C and 3 c y c l e F / T .
SOURCE:
R.T.
Vanderbilt Co.,
I n c , : Formula
No. 471
Beauty Aids
Aloe Vera G e l M o i s t u r i z e r T h i s c l e a r a l o e Vera g e l , t h i c k e n e d w i t h C a r b o p o l ETO 2020, i s an e x c e l l e n t g e l f o r s o o t h i n g s u n b u r n and o t h e r s k i n i r r i t a t i o n s and may p r o m o t e h e a l i n g . I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: P a r t A: Dei o n i zed Water Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer/Carbopol ETO 2020 DMOM H y d a n t o i n / G l y d a n t Sodium H y d r o x i d e (18%) Part B: Dei o n i zed Water D i m e t h i cone Cop01 yo1 Wax/Si 1 wax WS D i s o d i u m EOTA/Versene NA A l o e Vera Gel ( 4 0 : 1 ) / A l o e Vera Gel DC 40 Sodium H y d r o x i d e (18%) O & C Green No. 8 ( 1 . 0 % ) D&C Green No. 5 ( 0 . 1 % )
wts/, 88.20 0.80 0.30 0.60 5.00 1 .oo 0.20 2.50 1.00 0,20 0.20
P r o p e r t i es : Appearance: T h i c k , b r i 11 i a n t g r e e n g e l pH: 7 . 0 - 7 . 5 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) : 45,000-60,000 C l a r i t y ( I T ) : 75-82 Preparation Procedure: P a r t A: 1 . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l E T D 2020 p o l y m e r i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r (20-5OC). M i x u n t i l p o l y m e r i s d i s p e r s e d . 2 . Add G l y d a n t . 3 . P a r t i a l l y n e u t r a l i z e C a r b o p o l and w a t e r m i x t u r e w i t h NaOH M i x u n t i l smooth. Part 8: 1 . I n a s i d e v e s s e l , h e a t w a t e r t o 5 0 - 5 5 C , add S i l w a x WS ( p r e m e l t ) . Mix u n t i l w e l l dispersed. 2 . D i s s o l v e d i s o d i u m EDTA i n m i x t u r e . 3 , Add a l o e ( 4 0 : l ) t o m i x t u r e . 4 . Add NaOH (18%) t o m i x t u r e . 5 . When m i x t u r e i s u n i f o r m , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x u n t i l uniform. 6 . Add d e s i r e d c o l o r . 7 . A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e (18%) f o r optimum c l a r i t y .
SOURCE: B . F , Goodrich C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n COO62
57
58
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Amohoteric Facial Cleanser Insredients: Wt% Water 85.95 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.10 Citric Acid (25% Solution) to pH 6.0 Dimethicone Propyl-PG Betaine (Abil B 9950) 1.25 Caprylamido/Capramidopropyl Betaine (Tego Betaine 810) 7.50 Propylene Glycol 2.00 Butylene Glycol 2.00 PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (Tegosoft GC) 0.75 Sodium Lactate (and) Sodium PCA (and) Glycine (and) Fructose (and) Urea (and) Niacinamide (and) Inositol (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Lactic Acid (Lactil) 0.45 Preservatives Q.S. Color Q.S. Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: Mix ingredients in order given. SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggested Formulation O/W-Moisturizins Milk Raw Materials: A : Hostaphat KL 340 N (Trilaureth-4 Phosphate) Hostacerin DGS (Polyglyceryl-2 PEG-4 Stearate) Mineral oil, low viscosity Cetiol V (Decyl Oleate) Walnut oil Isopropyl isostearate Antioxidant B: Carbopol 980 (Carbomer C: Aquamollin BC pdr.h.c. (Ethylene Diamine Tetraacetic Acid Sodium Sa t) Citric acid (10%) Glycerin Caustic soda solution (10%) Water Preservative D: Collagen KD Fragrance Procedure: 1. Melt A at ca. 7OC, then add B. 2 . Heat C to ca. 70C. 3. Stir 2 into 1 and stir until cool. 4. At ca. 35C add the components of D to 3 . 5 . Homogenize the emulsion. SOURCE: Hoechst Aktiengesellschaft: Formula A VI/3015
WtO
1.00 4.00
3.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 q.s.
0.30 0.10 0.25 3.00 1.20
69.85 q.s.
5.00 0.30
Beauty Aids
59
Anhydrous Deep P e n e t r a t i n g V i t a m i n Gel F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : L i g h t , smooth, and q u i c k p e n e t r a t i n g b e s t d e s c r i b e s t h i s g e l . Use o f t h i s g e l w i l l d i m i n i s h t h e s i g n s o f a g i n g by c o n d i t i o n i n g and t r e a t i n g t h e s k i n w i t h a n t i - i n f l a m m a t o r y a g e n t s . T h e a c t i v i t y comes f r o m p h y t o s t e r o l and b i o f l a v o n i d e s i n D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax. T h i s c l a s s o f c h e m i c a l s i s a l s o a s t r o n g a n t i - o x i d a n t w h i c h w i l l scavenge f r e e r a d i c a l t h e r e b y p r e v e n t i n g p o t e n t i a l premature aging.
wt%
Raw M a t e r ia1 s : S i l i c o n e O i l 556 I s o p r o p y l Palmi t a t e F i t o d e r m - V e g e t a l Squalane Hexanedi o l Behenyl Beeswax R i c e Bran O i 1 D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax
56.0 5.0 10.0 14.0 2.0 10.0
Vitamin A Palmitate Vitamin E K80-D22
0.5 0.5 2.0
Procedure: M e l t and m i x a l l components t o 7 5 C , i n t o container.
c o o l t o 60C and pour
A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : D i f f e r e n t o i l s may b e used, t h e g e l c o n s i s t e n c y can b e r e g u l a t e d b y c h a n g i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f K80-D22 a c c o r d i n g t o the desired r e s u l t .
SOURCE:
K o s t e r Keunen I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n Gel w i t h T h i o s o m e m
Raw M a t e r i a1 s : a ) H i s p a g e l 200 K e l t r o l , 1% aqueous s o l u t i o n Water, d i s t i 1 l e d Phenoni p C e t i o l J 600
b ) Thiosome ( P )
Q 20 I 0 0
30.00 40.70
0.30 4.00
5.00
Manufacture: a ) M i x w e l l a t room t e m p e r a t u r e ; b) S t i r i n . Perfume
SOURCE: Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i u m D r , K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: F o r m u l a
60
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
B l a c k s t a r E y e Shadow I N C I N a m e / T r a d e Name: Phase A , Talc/Supra A Lithium Stearate K a o l i n 2457 Calcium S i l i c a t e / M i c r o c e l E B i s m u t h O x y c h l o r i d e / B i r o n B-50 M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben
Wt%
25.70 2.50
5.00 0.50
3.00 0.20 0.10
Phase B : I r o n Oxides (and) Mica/Colorona B ackstar Colors
so. 0 0
Phase C : M i n e r a l O i l ( a n d ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l Amerchol L-101 11.00 Lanolin Alcohol/Super Hartolan 1.oo White Petrolatum 1.oo Procedure: C o m b i n e Phase A . P u l v e r i z e w i t h a hammer m i l l , p a s s i n g t w i c e t h r o u g h a 0 , 0 2 7 " h e r r i n g b o n e s c r e e n . Add P h a s e B w i t h g e n t l e agitation C o m b i n e P h a s e C. H e a t t o 7 0 C . S p r a y o n t o b a t c h w h i l e a g i t a t i n g b u l k . Pass e n t i r e b a t c h t h r o u g h a jump gap, F o r m u l a AS1 - 3
E y e Shadow w i t h T i m i r o n MP-60,
MP-65
I N C I Name/Tr_ade Name: Phase A : Talc/Supra A L i t h i um S t e a r a t e K a o l i n 2457 Calcium S i l i c a t e / M i c r o c e l E Bismuth O x y c h l o r i d e ( a n d ) C a r m i n e / B i c r o n a Carmine B i s m u t h O x y c h l o r i d e / B i r o n 8-50 M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben Phase 8 : Mica (and) I r o n Oxides (and) T i t a n i u m Diox de/Ti m i r o n MP-60, MP-65
W t%
24.10 2.50 5.00 0.50 2.00 2.60
0.20 0.10
50.00
Phase C : M i n e r a l O i l ( a n d ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l / A m e r c h o l L-101 11 .oo Lanolin Alcohol/Super Hartolan 1.oo White Petrolatum 1.oo Procedure: C o m b i n e P h a s e A . P u l v e r i z e w i t h a hammer m i l l , p a s s i n g t w i c e t h r o u g h a 0 . 0 2 7 " h e r r i n g b o n e s c r e e n . Add P h a s e B w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n . C o m b i n e P h a s e C . H e a t t o 70C. S p r a y o n t o b a t c h w h i l e a g i t a t i n g b u l k . Pass e n t i r e b a t c h t h r o u g h a jump g a p . F o r m u l a AS1-5 SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c a ! S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids
61
Body Mask W i t h L i p o s i l t Green A n o n - d r y i n g body mask f o r s k i n c l e a n s i n g and n o u r i s h m e n t . The L i p o s i l t Green is t h e s o u r c e o f n u t r i e n t s w h i c h y i e l d s n o u r i s h ment and l e a v e s t h e s k i n w i t h a smooth s o f t a p p e a r a n c e .
Secl: 1 2 2 3 3 4
5 5 5 6 7 7
Raw M a t e r i a l / I N C I Name: Dei o n i zed Water K e l t r o l / X a n t h a n Gum Mineral C o l l o i d BP/Montmorillonite Uniphen P-23 L i popeg 6000-DS/PEG-150 Di s t e a r a t e L i p o s i 1t Green/Si 1 t L i p o m u l s e 1 6 5 / G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 Stearate L i p 0 GMS-450/Glyceryl S t e a r a t e L i p o v o l SES/Sesame O i 1 Kaol i n D e i o n i z e d Water U n i c i d e U - I 3 / I m i d a z o l i n y l Urea
yf&? 37.33 0.12 0.10 0.60 0.05 30.00 5.00 3.00 15.00 7.50 1 .oo 0.30
Procedure: 1 . Heat Sequence # I t o 78C u s i n g o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medium speed. 2 . D r y m i x Sequence #2, add s l o w l y t o Sequence # I and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y h y d r a t e d . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 78C. 3 . Add Sequence #3 i n o r d e r o f a d d i t i o n t o b a t c h u s i n g o v e r h e a d m i x e r a t medium speed. M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 78C. 4 . Add Sequence # 4 t o b a t c h u n d e r homomixer. H o l d t e m p e r a t u r e 78C. 5 . Heat and m e l t a t 80C Sequence # 5 and add t o b a t c h on homom i x e r . S w i t c h t o sweep b l a d e on o v e r h e a d m i x e r and c o o l t o 42C. 6 . A t 42C add Sequence #6 and m i x u n t i l t h o r o u g h l y d i s p e r s e d . Cool t o 3 5 c . 7 . A t 35C add p r e m i x e d Sequence #7 t o b a t c h and c o o l t o 25C Specifications: pH: 6.0+-0.2 V i s c o s i t y : T - D @ 3 . 0 rpm=36,000 cps+-10% The enhancement o f e p i d e r m a l c e 1 r e n e w a l i n f o r m u l a t i o n has been c o n f i r m e d .
SOURCE:
L i p 0 C h e m i c a l s I n c , : Forrnu a t i o n
No, 8 7 0
62
Cosmetic and Toletry Formulations
Cleansing G e l (Wash o f f t y p e )
Wt%
Raw M a t e r i a l s : T E m a l e x O.T.G. Emal ex CC-168 Emalex OD-25 J J B u t y l paraben
56.4 5.0 16.0 0.2
4.0 1.7 9.0 7.3 0.1
B: Glucam E-10 Glycerin S o r b i t o 1 (70% a q . ) Water Methyl paraben Colorant C:
q.s. 0.3
Perfume
Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) and ( 8 ) up a t 80C and add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) g r a d u a l l y . Cool down t h e m i x t u r e w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g and add perfume a t 50C. Cool down t o b e l o w 45C w i t h s t i r r i n g . Note: T h i s f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s g e l a t 45-5OC. I f water c o n t e n t reduces by e v a p o r a t i o n d u r i n g p r o d u c t i o n , g e l c a n n o t be o b t a i n e d . P r e v e n t w a t e r e v a p o r a t i o n o r compensate w a t e r c o n t e n t i n advance. F o r m u l a A-390-18 Make up Remover (wash o f f t y p e ) Raw M a t e r i a l s : A c y l g l u t a m a t e CT-12 A c y l g l u t a m a t e CK-11 A c y l g l u t a m a t e CA Squal ane A m i t e r LGOD-5 Sodium C h l o r i d e Methyl paraben B u t y l paraben Fragrance ~~
WtO/o 40.0 8.0 8.0 21 . o
21 . o
1.5 0.2 0.1 0.2
Procedure: D i s s o l v e a l l i n g r e d i e n t s ( e x c e p t f r a g r a n c e ) a t 80C w i t h s t i r r i n g . Cool down w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Add f r a g r a n c e a t 40C and c o n t i n u e t o c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a No. MRJ-11
SOURCE: A j i n o r n o t o U . S m A . , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids
63
C l e a n s i n g 01 . 1 1-ngredi e n t s : Macadam?a 01 1 Vegetable O i l (Panacete 8 1 0 ) P.O.E. (30) Sorbitol Tetraoleate Vitamin E Perfume M i n e r a l 01 1-70
y t 04 10.0 10.0 13.0 0.2 q.s 56.8
Mi 1k Lotion
I n g r ed ien t.s : A) P . O . E . S o r b i t a n M o n o s t e a r a t e S o r b i t a n Monostearate Stearic Acid Cetanol Polysynlane Macadamia O i l B u t y l Paraben B) Glycerin X a n t h a n Gum ( 2 % s o l ) Methy I Paraben O i s t . Water C ) Perfume
wtya 2
.o
1. o
2.0 0.25 7.0
3.0 0.1 3.0
10.0 0.1 71.55 q. s
Procedure o f M i 1 k L o t i o n : 1 . H e a t A and 6 , up to 8 0 C . 2 . Add 5 t o A , and c o n t i n u e t o m i x u n t i l down t o a r o u n d 40'2. 3 . Add C . Remarks :
P . O . E . = polyoxyethylene = quantum s u f f i c i t
9,s.
A t y p i c a l p r e s c r i p t i o n example o f P o l y s y n l a n e f o r c l e a n s i n g o i l and m i l k l o t i o n . As a f a c i a l c l e a n s e r P o l y s y n l a n e i s more e f f i c i e n t t h a n g e n e r a l c l e a n s i n g creams on t h e m a r k e t , l e a v i n g an a p p r o p r i a t e o i l b a s e w h i c h h e l p s s o f t e n t h e s k i n . This m i l k l o t i o n i s designed f o r d r y s k i n , but i s a v a i l a b l e f o r normal s k i n b y a d j u s t i n g t h e c o n t e n t s o f the base o i l .
SOURCE: P o l y e s t e r C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
64
C l e a r F~ a c i a l C l_e a n s i n g _Gel
~
A c l e a r , m i l d , foaming f a c i a l c l e a n s e r designed t o p r o v i d e s t a b l e s u s p e n s i o n o f added a b r a s i v e a r t i c l e s . The Jordapon ACI-30G p r o v i d e s e x c e l l e n t f o a m i n g , g e n t l e c l e a n s i n g , and a s o f t , smooth a f t e r f e e l on t h e s k i n . -~ Part:
I n Q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Dei o n i zed Water Nonoxynol-9/Macol NP-9.5 Carbomer/Carbopol 1342
WtYQ 50.00 0.01 1.oo
B
Dei o n i zed Water TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e / S t e p a n o l WAT M e t h y l Paraben I m i d a z o l i d i n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l 11 5 P E G - I 50 D i s t e a r a t e / M a p e g 6000 DS
20.00 3.50 0.15 0.15 0.50
C
Ammonium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e / J o r d a p o n A C I - B O G Soyamide DEA/Mazamide SS-10 Cocami de DEA/Mazami de J T - I 2 8 Na4 EDTA
16.80
A
D
D e i o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i ne
1.50 1.50 0.10 3.39 1.40
pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d # 4 @ 25C (shear s e n s i t i v e ) v e r y l o w s h e a r : 166,000 low shear: 56,400 medium s h e a r : 21,700 moderate shear: 7,620 Appearance: C l e a r , v i s c o u s y e l l o w l i q u i d
cps cps cps cps
@ 0.3 @ 1.5 @ 6 @ 30
rpm rpm rpm rpm
Procedure: D i s p e r s e t h e carbomer i n t h e p a r t A w a t e r p l u s Macol N P - 9 . 5 , s t i r r i n g f o r about 20 m i n u t e s . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , p r e m i x t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t i n g t o 65C t o d i s s o l v e t h e Mapeg 6000 DS. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Premix t h e p a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s and add t o a d j u s t t h e pH and t h i c k e n t h e p r o d u c t .
SOURCE:
PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,
Inc,:
F o r m u l a t i o n K-107
Beauty Aids
65
Conceal ing St i ck F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s p r o d u c t c o v e r s f i n e f a c i a l l i n e s and b l e m i s h e s n a t u r a l l y , l e a v i n g a f l e x i b l e b a r r i e r w h i c h a l s o r e t a i n s m o i s t u r e and c o n d i t i o n s t h e s k i n . Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax) i s used as a p i g m e n t d i s p e r s e r w h i c h makes t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n e a s i e r and t h e r e b y a v o i d i n g t h e expense o f m i l l i n g . Raw M a t e r i a l s : Phase A : Castor O i l Petrolatum, White Synthetic Candelilla I s o p r o p y l Palmi t a t e Carnauba Wax D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax J o j o b a Wax P a r a f f i n Wax 130/135 O z o k e r i t e 170 Squal ane Vitamin E
27.3 22.0 10.0 6.0 5.0 5.0 4.0 1.5 1.o 1.o 0.5
Phase B : Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax) T i t a n i um D i o x i d e Cosmetic Tan I r o n O x i d e Brown I r o n O x i d e
9.0 5.0 1.5 0.2
Phase C : Liquapar
1.o
Procedure: Heat and m i x Phase B t i l l p i g m e n t s a r e e v e n l y d i s p e r s e d . Weigh Phase A and i n d i v i d u a l l y add t o Phase B w h i l e m i x i n g . Heat A&B t i l l homogeneous, add Phase C, c o o l and p o u r a t 60C. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : By r e d u c i n g t h e wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n t h i s p r o d u c t can be p o u r e d i n t o a compact t r a y . L a r g e v a r i a t i o n s can b e made i n wax and o i l c o n c e n t r a t i o n s t h a t a r e i n c o r p o r a t e d i n s t i c k p r o d u c t s and s t i l l p r o d u c e a s i m i l a r f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t .
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen I n c a : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
66
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Creamy Liauid Make-UD Inqredients: Phase A: Ceteareth-15 and Glyceryl Stearate (Tego Care 215) Cetyl Alcohol (Tego Alkanol 16) Stearoxy Dimethicone (Abil Wax 2434) Octyl Stearate (Tegosoft 0 s ) Octyl Palmitate (Tegosoft OP) Isoeicosane Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Tegosoft CT) Phase B: Water Preservatives Glycerin Butylene Glycol
Wt% 2.20 1.75 0.25 3.00 3.00 5.00 5.00 60.60 Q.S.
1.00 3.00
Phase C: Carbomer 941 Octyl Palmitate (Tegosoft OP)
0.20 0.80
Phase D: Titanium Dioxide Mica Talc Iron Oxides
9.00 2.00 2.00 1.20
Phase E: Sodium Hydroxide (10%) Fragrance
to pH 6.0 Q.S.
Procedure: 1. Heat the ingredients of Phase A to 80C. Mix well. 2 . Heat the ingredients of Phase B to 8OC. Mix well to dissolve preservatives. 3 . Add B to A or A to B with mixing. Cool to 60-65C. 4. Continue mixing. Add Phase C. 5. Homogenize. 6. While homogenizing, add pigments. 7. After homogenization, cool to 40-45C with sweep mixing. 8. Adjust pH. Fragrance. SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggested Formulation
Beauty Aids
67
Dark Beiqe Makeup with Teqo Care 4 5 0 Ingredients: Wt% Phase A: 2.0 Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care 450) Almond Oil 2.0 Cyclomethicone 3.5 Cetyl Dimethicone (Abil Wax 9 8 0 1 ) 1.0 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (Tegosoft CT) 4.0 1.5 Iron Oxides Titanium Dioxide 6.0 Phase B: Glycerin 2.0 Water 76.6 Phase C: 0.2 Carbomer 941 Isopropyl Palmitate (Tegosoft P) 0.8 Phase D: Sodium Hydroxide (10% solution) 0.4 Phase E: Preservative Q.S. Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1. Heat the ingredients of Phase A to 8OC. Disperse Iron Oxides and Titanium Dioxide into Phase A with sufficient agitation. 2 . Heat the ingredients of Phase B to 8OC. 3. Add A to B with agitation. 4 . Homogenize. 5. Disperse Carbomer into the oil/ester add to A/B. Homogenize. 6. Cool to 35-40C with stirring. 7 . Add Phase D/E. Stir. 8 . Mix until viscosity profile is obtained. Facial Cleaner and Toner Inqredients: Water Tetrasodium EDTA Aloe A1 1antoin PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides (Tegosoft GMC 6) Caprylamido/Capramidopropyl Betaine (Tego Betaine 810) Lactil Organic Extracts Propylene Glycol SDA Alcohol 40 Preservatives Color Fragrance Procedure: Mix ingredients in order, mixing until clear.
Wts,
83.40 0.10 1.00
0.30 1.50 3.70 2.00 2.00 1.00 5.00 Q.S. Q.S.
SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggested Formulations
Q.S.
68
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Deep E x t r a Body C o n d i t i o n e r F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s formula u t i l i z e s t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e Hexanediol Behenyl Beeswax i n a s i l i c o n e o i l and t h e c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s o f Bee's M i l k .
__ Raw M a t e r i a1 s :
K
O i l Phase A : E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF S i l i c o n e O i 1 245 S i 1 i cone O i 1 556 Hexanedi o l Behenyl Beeswax Lecithin
O
3.0 2.5 2.0 1.0 1.o
Water Phase B : Carbopol 940 (2% s o l u t i o n ) Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e Triethanolamine Cocami de S i l k Powder M a r i n e Dew S i l k Soluble Liquid Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d )
68.3
Phase C : Bee's M i l k Germaben I 1 Fragrance
10.0 1.o 0.2
10.0 0.5 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
Procedure: M i x and h e a t w a t e r phase t o 70-75C. M e l t o i l phase and add t o w a t e r phase a t 70-75C under a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g . A t 45C add Phase C and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r a t 35C. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : Changes i n t h e a c t i v e s and t h e c o n d i t i o n e r s a r e s t r a i g h t f o r w a r d , s i m p l e r e p l a c e m e n t s . G a f q u a t ' s w o u l d be a c l a s s o f c o n d i t i o n e r s would f i t t h i s formula w e l l . SOURCE:
K o s t e r Keunen I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Beauty Aids
69
E m o l l i e n t L i q u i d Make-Uq F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : Conceals m i n o r s k i n i m p e r f e c t i o n s , y e t m o i s t u r i z e s , g i v i n g s k i n a s o f t dewy f i n i s h . T h i s p r o d u c t has tremendous endurance through very vigorous a c t i v i t i e s . Raw M a t e r ia1 s : ______
Phase A : Xanthan Gum Gel 1u l ose Gum Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i ne PEG 1450 M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l P o l y s o r b a t e 60
wts/, 0.33 0.23 50.55 0.70 2.35 0.28 1.08 0.47
Phase 8 : Titanium Dioxide Brown I r o n O x i d e Y e l l o w BC I r o n O x i d e s Orange Wax Cera B e l l i n a
8.44 2.35 0.94 6.10 4.69
Phase C : Octyl Palmitate S i l i c o n e 245 I s o p r o p y l Palmi t a t e Hydrogenated Castor O i l Isostearic Acid Jojoba O i l Propylene Glycol Stearate P r o p y l Paraben
6.57 2.00 6.10 1 .41 1 .50 0.94 1.89 0.28
Procedure: D i s p e r s e p i g m e n t s i n t h e Orange Wax and Cera B e l l i n a i n a b e a k e r w i t h a g l a s s s t i r r i n g r o d , a l l o w t o s o l i d i f y . Repeat s o - a s - t o b r e a k u p v i s i b l e a g g l o m e r a t i o n s . M i x and h e a t t o 75C Phase C u n t i l u n i f o r m , add t o Phase B u n d e r a g i t a t i o n , maint a i n i n g t h e t e m p e r a t u r e t i l l homogeneous. Add t h e m i x e d and m e l t e d Phase B and C t o t h e m i x e d and m e l t e d Phase A . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g , p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r s a t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 50C. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : Sunscreens, v e g e t a b l e o i l s and b r a n c h e d o i l s can be s u b s t i t u d e d i n m i n o r amounts s i n c e p r o d u c t s such as t h e s e a r e sensi t i v e t o s m a l l changes t h a t w i l l a f f e c t s t a b i l i t y .
SOURCE:
K o s t e r Keunen I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
70
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
E s t e r Based. L i p s t i c k Ingredients: WtYO Phase A : G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( T e g i n M) 40.00 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) 3.00 Cetearyl Octanoate (Tegosoft L i q u i d ) 3.00 Mineral O i l 4.00 Castor O i l 19.50 C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9 8 1 4 ) 0.50 Petrolatum 6.00 Carnauba 5.00 Ozokeri t e 2.00 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 2.00 Phase B : Pigments i n Castor O i l ) 15.00 Castor O i l ) Phase C: Antioxidants Q.S Fragrance Q.S F1 a v o r Q.S Procedure: 1 . M e l t t o g e t h e r t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A ( 8 0 9 O C ) . M i x u n t i uniform. 2 . Add t h e p i g m e n t g r i n d s a n d t h e r e m a i n i n g C a s t o r O i l 3 . Add Phase C . 4. Mold. Sheer L i q u i d Foundation Ingredients: Phase A : I r o n Oxides (micron z e d / s i l i c o n e t r e a t e d ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (m c r o n i z e d / s i l i c o n e t r e a t e d ) T a l c ( s i l i c o n e t r e a ed) Cyclomethicone Cetearyl Octanoate (Tegosoft L i q u i d ) Pol ydecene Phase B : D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 EM 9 7 ) Cyclometh cone Phenyl T r methicone ( A b i l AV 2 0 ) Fragrance Phase C : P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l Water S o d i u m Ch o r id e Preservat ves Procedure: 1 . M i x Phase A . M i 1 1 . 2 . M i x Phase B. Add t o Phase A . 3 . M i x Phase C , a d d s l o w l y t o A/B 4 . Homogeni z e . SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l
Wt%
1.60 6.00 4.00 9.00 2.00 3.00
2.80 9.00 1 .oo Q.S. 6.00 54.35 1.25 Q.S.
Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids
Eye C o n t o u r u
r
n
F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and Advantages: T h i s p r o d u c t i s d e s i g n e d t o r e d u c e t h e s i g n s o f a g i n g and f a t i g u e a r o u n d t h e e y e s . The p r o d u c t ' s a c t i v i t y comes f r o m B a r l e y Beta Glucan which h e l p s promote t h e h e a l i n g o f s k i n t h r o u g h t h e r e d u c t i o n o f i r r i t a t i o n . D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax m o i t u r i z e s and p r o t e c t s t h e s k i n f r o m t h e sun due t o t h e strong antioxidant properties. Raw M a t e r i a l s : O i l Phase: O y s t e r Nut O i l S i 1 i c o n y l Beeswax R i c e Bran O i l Saf f 1ower O i 1 D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax Isostearic Acid Isopropyl Palmitate Vitamin E Isostearic Acid C e t y l s t e a r y l Alcohol Squal ane Isopropyl Palmitate Hydroxy P o l y e s t e r Liquapar Water Phase: Water ( D e i o n i z e d ) A1 1 a n t o i n Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 icat.e Sodi um B o r a t e M e t h y l Paraben Xanthan Gum B a r l e y 1 - 3 B e t a G l u c a n 70%
Wt% 2.0 5.0 2.0
6.0 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 2.5 1.5 1.o 2.0 1.2 0.4
76.1 1.o 1.2 0.8 1.2 1,2 0.2
Procedure: Weigh o u t i n g r e d i e n t s f o r Water Phase. Heat t o 8OC w h i l e m i x i n g v i g o r o u s l y ( w i t h o u t a d d i n g a i r ) . Heat O i l Phase t o 80C w h i l e m i x i n g . Add O i l Phase t o Water Phase under r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and i t I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : N a t u r a l p r e s e r v a t i v e s may be s u b s t i t u t e d f o r t h e s y n t h e t i c s i n t h e f o r m u l a . D i f f e r e n t o i l s may b e s u b s t i t u t e d .
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
71
72
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
__ Ingredients:
YL%
Phase A : H20 C a r b o p o l 934
79.80 0.35
Phase B: P r o d u c t S E - 1 0 0 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e & PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) Petrolatum Super H a r t o l an Canol i n H e s t CSO ( C e t e a r y l O c t a n o a t e ) H e s t IS-2-0 ( I s o c e t e a r e t h - 2 O c t a n o a t e ) Hest L-2-0 (Laureth-2 Octanoate) Cocoa B u t t e r
3.00 3.50 2.40 2.00 1.70 1.40 1 .40 1.70
Phase C: H20, D e i o n i zed T E A 99%
1 .oo 0.75
Phase D : Germaben I 1 E
1 .oo
Specifications: pH: 7 . 5 0 V i s c . #4/12:
40,000
cps
Procedure: 1 I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e , d i s p e r s e Carbopol 934 i h t o H20 using a l i g h t n i n ' type mixer. 2 When c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d a n d f r e e o f l u m p s , h e a t t o 75C while mixing. 3 . I n a s e p a r a t e k e t t l e , c o m b i n e P h a s e B a n d h e a t t o 75C w h i l e mixing. 4 . A t 75C, a d d P h a s e 8 t o P h a s e A . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 5 . Add p r e m i x e d P h a s e C . M i x w e l l . 6 . C o o l t o b e l o w 40C a n d a d d P h a s e 0 .
. .
SOURCE:
Heterene, I n c . :
F o r m u l a t i o n HC94-147
Beauty Aids
73
F a c i a l Scrub No. .__ Phase: I n g r e d i e n t : 1 A Carbomer 15.00 2 A Deionized water 57.75 3 A Propylene g l y c o l 2.50 A A l o e Vera g e l 0.25 4 5 B Cyclomethicone 5.00 6 B O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i l 2.50 7 B S t e a r i c A c i d XXX 3.50 6 B Emulsifier 1.oo 9 B Isopropyl myristate 10.00 10 C T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% 1.00 11 D P o l y e t h y l e n e AC-9A 1.50 12 E Preservative QS Manufacturing Procedure: Phase A : D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l i n t o w a t e r w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 75'2. Add P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and A l o e Vera g e l . Phase B: Heat o i l phase t o 75C. Add t o w a t e r phase. Phase C : Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e t o o i l / w a t e r m i x t u r e . Cool t o 40C. Phase D : Add P o l y e t h y l e n e AC-9A. Phase E : Add p r e s e r v a t i v e . Carbomer i s t h e s u s p e n d i n g a g e n t . T h i s s c r u b i s d e s i g n e d f o r p e o p l e w i t h o i l y s k i n and needs t o have a d r y i n g e f f e c t . Uses t w o v e r y d r y emollients-cyclomethicone and i s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e . They l e a v e a d r y f e e l i n g s k i n . The O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i l l e a v e s t h e s k i n w i t h a f r e s h , m o i s t a f t e r f e e l . Kukui n u t o i l w o u l d a l s o work v e r y w e l l i n t h i s f o r m u l a . SOURCE: O i l s o f A l o h a : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
_-~__ C l e a r Faci a1 C1 ____. eanser Moderatelv D r i c e d formula. Verv m i l d f a c i a l c l e a n s e r t h a t conditions t h e ' s k i n while i t cleans. V i s c o s i t y : 600 t o 1100 c p s pH: 6 . 0 I. ngredients: D e i o n i z e d Water 65.12 2.50 Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e ( 8 0 % a c t i v e ) Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (33% a c t i v e ) 13.32 Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne (35% a c t i v e ) 14.29 Ucare Polymer LR-400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 1 0 ) 0.10 1.25 Sodium X y l e n e s u l f o n a t e (40% a c t i v e ) Ucon 50-HB-660 (PPG-12-Buteth-16) 0.02 1.oo Glucam E - 1 0 ( M e t h y l G l u c e t h - 1 0 ) G l u c q u a t 125 ( L a u r y l M e t h y l G l u c e t h - 1 0 H y d r o x y p r o p y l Dimonium C h l o r i d e ) 2.00 DMDM H y d a n t o i n 0.40 Procedure: Add t h e sodium x y l e n e s u l f o n a t e t o t h e w a t e r w i t h s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e s p r i n k l i n g i n t h e U c a r e Polymer LR-400. Once t h e p o l y m e r i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d , h e a t t o 70C. When t h e p o l y m e r i s h y d r a t e d , add t h e sodium c o c o y l i s e t h i o n a t e , cocamidop r o p y l b e t a i n e and ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e , i n t h a t o r d e r , w a i t i n g f o r each t o d i s s o l v e b e f o r e a d d i n g t h e n e x t . Once u n i f o r m , add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e i n t h e o r d e r shown. A l l o w t o c o o l t o a t l e a s t 40C, t h e n add p r e s e r v a t i v e . SOURCE: Amerchol: F o r m u l a t i o n T 8 2 - 2 6 7 - 5
74
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
F a c i a l Wash w i t h S a l i c y l i c A c i d
Wt%
Insredients: Water Sodium C14-16 O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e Monalac MA0 Phosphol ip i d G L A Sodium C h l o r i d e S a l i c y l i c Acid
44.0 40.0 10.0 2.0 2.0 2.0
A d j u s t pH t o 3 . 0 - 3 . 5 V i s c o s i t y 13,500 c p s Clear Viscous F l u i d Procedure: Add f i r s t t h r e e i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h m i l d h e a t . S e q u e n t i a l l y , b l e n d i n r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , t h e n add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and package. F o r m u l a t i o n F-685 M i 1 k En_r_l_chedFacj-Sl-Cleanser
(Clear)
ytx
Raw -Mater ia 1-: Water Sodium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e (250/) Monalac MPL Monalac M O Sodium C h l o r i d e Fragrance Monalac MAB
55.00 35.00 2.00 2.00 1 .oo qs 5.00
Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d and a d l u s t pH t o 6 . 5 t o 7 . 5 P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t ies : Appearance: C1 e a r L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 25C ( c P ) : 5 , 0 0 0
t o 10,000 v a r i e s w i t h pH
Formulation F-723
SOURCE:
Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids
75
Foami nq F a c i a1 C1 e a n s e r
Raw M a t e r i a1 si A m i s o f t CT-12s ( 3 0 % ) Cocamide DEA ( A m i s o l CDE) Butylene Glycol PEG-40 H y d r o g e n a t e d C a s t o r O i l PCA I s o s t e a r a t e ( P y r o t e r CPI-40) A j i d e w N-50 (50%) Methyl paraben Sodium b e n z o a t e Water
W
X
33.0 2.0 5.0 2.0 1. o 0.2 0.2
qs
1 . A l l i n g r e d i e n t s d i s s o l v e a t 70-80C w i t h s t i r r i n g 2 . Cool down t o 30C.
pH: 5 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 6 . 1 mPa-s Formula SP-01
( B type\No
1 \ 3 0 rpm\30
sec.\25C)
Skin Tonic
_______ Raw M a t e r i a l s : A j i d e w N-50 A1 1a n t o i n L - S e r i ne D i p o t a s s i um G l y c y r r h i z i n a t e Butylene g l y c o l Methyl paraben Ethanol Water
Wt% 3.0 0.1 0.5 0.1 2.0 0.05 8.0 86.25
Procedure: D i s s o l v e t h e above i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t e t h a n o l a t 70-80C and c o o l down t o 50C. Add e t h a n o l t o t h e s o l u t i o n and c o o l down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Formula No. L-100
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A . , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
76
Cosmetic and Toi/etry Formulations
Glisteninq Body Colosne This formula is a soft, shimmering fragrance lotion with Velsan D8P-3 liquid which leaves the skin luxuriously soft. Inqredients: Wt% Phase A: Isopropyl Palmitate 4.00 Stearic Acid 1.00 Mineral Oil 2.00 Velsan D8P-3 (l)(Isopropyl PPG-2 Isodeceth-7 Carboxylate) 3.00 Glyceryl Monostearate 1.50 Propyl Paraben 0.10 Timica (2) (Mica and Titanium Dioxide) 3.00 Phase B: Deionized Water Glycerin Carbopol 941 (3) (Carbomer-941) Triethanolamine 99% Dow Corning 200 Fluid (4) (Dimethicone) Dimethicone Copolyol Phase C: Fragrance Dye
74.65 5.00 0.25 1.00 2.00 0.20 2.50 qs
Procedure: Heat Phase A to 77C. Separately heat Phase B to 77C. Add Phase A to Phase B. Cool with stirring to 45C. Add Phase C, continue cooling and stirring to 40C. Appearance: White pearly lotion pH: 7.0+-0.3 Viscosity: 33OOt-500 cps Notes : (1) Clariant Corp. (3) BF Goodrich
(2) Mearl Corp. ( 4 ) Dow Corning
SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Technical Bulletin CMP-O9/Ref: CL15-19C
Beauty Aids
77
Liqht Face Fluid with Emulqade PL 6 8 / 5 0 ComDonent: I Emulgade PL 68/50/Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl Alcohol Monomu 1s 60-35C/Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Cetiol J 600/01evl Erucate Myritol 331/Cocoglycerides Cetiol OE/Dicaprylyl Ether Baysilon M 350/Dimethicone Copherol 1250/Tocopheryl Acetate I1
Glycerin 86% Carbopol 5984/Carbomer KOH 5%
wt% 2.7
1.6 3.0 4.0 2.0
0.5 1.0 3.0 0.05
0.2 79.95
I11 Water
Preservative/Perfume
q.s.
Viscosity mPas: 15,600 Preparation in the Laboratory: Heat phase I to 80C. Heat phase I1 to 80C and add the oil phase while stirring. Allow the emulsion to cool with stirring. The stirring rate must be selected in such a way that the emulsion is kept in continual motion without developing a socalled "stirring cone". Add the 2 % Carbopol swelling at 50C. Neutralization at 40C. Add preservative and perfume at room temperature. Formulation No.: 96/164/4 Facial Cleansinq Gel with Gluadin WO Component: Plantacare PS 10/Sodium Laureth Sulfate (and) Lauryl Glucoside Gluadin WQ/Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein NaCl Water Preservative/Perfume
12.0
2.0 2.0
84.0 q.s
pH-Value: 5.6 WAS: 8 . 0 Viscosity Brookfield mPas, RVT, 20C, Rotor 4, 10 rpm: 6,000 Preparation in the Laboratory: Mix ingredients at room temperature Hint: Kind and amount of perfume may influence the viscosity of the product. Formulation No.: 94/138/40
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested Formulations
78
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
LiDcare Wt$ Component: I Myritol 318/Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 14.0 Myritol PC/Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate Dicaprate 6.5 Ultra Lantrol HP 2074/Lanolin Oil 2.7 IPP/Isopropyl Palmitate 13.0 Candelilla Cera 7.0 Lunacera M/Microcrystalline wax 2.7 Carnauba Cera 1.0 Cera Alba 4.3 Lanolin 7.5 Monomuls 60-35C/Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides 3.7 Controx KS 0.05 Hombitec L5/Titanium dioxide 5.4 22.15 Ricinus communis/Castor oil I1 Hydagen CMF/Chitosan Glycolate 10.0 Preparation in the Laboratory: 1. Melt the components listed under I at 80-85C and stir until the pigments are completely incorporated. Homogenize once with a triple roll press and heat up again to 80-85C. 2. Add the ingredients of phase I1 one after the other and stir for 5 minutes at 8OC. Pass mixture twice more through the triple roll press and melt again at approx. 80C. 3. For a pearl-shine lipstick add the pearliser and stir until homogeneous. 4. Cast with stirring into the moulds. Allow to cool down to approx. 30C and keep in the refrigerator over night. Formulation No.: 94/056/146
Lipstick
Wt% ComDonent: I Myritol 318/Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 14.0 Myritol PC/Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate 6.0 17.0 Eutanol G/Octyldodecanol Candelilla Wax 5.0 Carnauba Wax 7.0 Bienenwachs 8100 5.0 Dehymuls PGPH/Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 4.0 3.0 Monomuls 90 L 12/Glyceryl Laurate Castor oil 18.0 Color pigments q.s. I1 Hydagen CMF/Chitosan Glycolate 10.0 Copherol F1300/Tocopherol 2.0 Preparation in the Laboratory: 1. Melt the components listed under I at 80C and stir until homogeneous. 2. Add components listed under I1 at room temperature. Stir for 5 minutes at 80C. 3. Homogenise twice with a triple roll press and heat up again to 80C. 4. Add phase 111. Stir until homogeneous and immediately pour the formulation hot in the form and allow them to cool down over night. Formulation No. 94/056/181 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested Formulations
Beauty Aids
79
Liposome Emu 1 s iE This l i g h t , m i l k y w h i t e emulsion c o n t a i n s liposomes t h a t d e l i v e r Evening Primrose O i l , which a r e r i c h i n gamma-linolenic a c i d and p r o v i d e e x c e l l e n t m o i s t u r i z i n g and s o f t e n i n g b e n e f i t s . I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: P a r t A: Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer/ Pemulen T R - 1 Carbomer/Carbopol U l t r e z 1 0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e / C e t i o l 868 Mineral O i l
0.25 0.20 8.00 10.00
P a r t B: Dei o n i zed Water G1 y c e r i n
75.55 2.00
wts/,
Part C: Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 1 8 % )
0.50
P a r t D: Phenoxyethanol ( a n d ) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) B u t y l p a r a b e n (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben/Phenonip L e c i t h i n ( a n d ) E v e n i n g P r i m r o s e O i l / B r o o k s o m e EPO
0.50 3.00
P r o p e r t ie s : pH: 6 . 2 - 6 . 6 V i scosi t y (cP) : 11,000-1 4 , 0 0 0 Appearance: M i 1ky-whi t e emu1 s i on Preoaration Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A i n t h e c o n t a i n e r t h a t w i l l h o l d t h e f i n a l p r o d u c t . Mix t h e i n g r e d i e n t s w e l l t o disperse t h e polymers. 2 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B and mix u n t i l homogeneous. 3 . Add 3 / 4 o f P a r t B t o P a r t A s l o w l y w i t h s t r o n g m i x i n g . M i x f o r a b o u t 15 m i n u t e s t o s w e l l t h e p o l y m e r s . 4 . When t h e e m u l s i o n i s smooth and w h i t e , add p a r t o f t h e sodium h y d r o x i d e and b r i n g t h e pH t o a b o u t 7 . 0 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . 5 . S l o w l y add t h e r e m a i n d e r o f P a r t B w i t h m o d e r a t e m i x i n g . 6 . Add remai n i ng s o d i um h y d r o x i d e . 7 . Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t h e l i p o s o m e s u s i n g slow a g i t a t i o n t o a v o i d r u p t u r i n g liposomes. Mix u n t i l uniform.
SOURCE:
B . F . G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a PO050
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
80
Lipstick F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and Advantages: T h i s r e d l i p s t i c k h a s a creamy t e x t u r e and i s l o n g w e a r i n g . The l i p s t i c k i s v e r y s t a b l e , a l t h o u g h i t h a s a h i g h o i l c o n c e n t r a t i o n . Cera B e l l i n a a l l o w s f o r h i g h c o l o r a t i o n w i t h o u t l a r g e p i g m e n t l o a d and i m p a r t s a s a t i n l i k e f e e l t o t h e l i p s . Raw M a t e r ia1 s : 1 . C e r a B e l l i n a ( P g - 3 Beeswax) 2 . C a n d e l i 11 a 3 . O z o k e r i t e 160/164 4 . Carnauba # I Y e l l o w 5. Castor O i l 6. P a r a f f i n O i l 7. Isopropyl Palmitate 8 . Jojoba O i l 9. Vitamin E IO.D&C Red # 7 11 E s c a l o l 5 0 7 12.Titanium Dioxide 1 3 . P r o p y l Paraben
.
Wx/n
16.70 3.10 4.20 1.20 45.70 16.30 6.20 1.oo 0.50 4.00 0.75 0.25 0.10
Procedure: Add 1 , 1 0 , a n d 1 3 i n t o a v e s s e l l a r g e e n o u g h t h a t w i l l a l l o w t h e o t h e r components t o b e added a f t e r t h e C e r a B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax) and p i g m e n t s have been m e l t e d (75C) and m i x e d t o g e t h e r w i t h t h e i n t e n t i o n o f b r e a k i n g down a s many o f t h e v i s i b l e a g g l o m e r a t i o n s . A f t e r t h e v i s i b l e a g g l o m e r a t i o n s have been s e p a r a t e d add 2 , 3 a n d 4 t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n w h i l e m i x i n g . I n c r e a s e t h e t e m p e r a t u r e s l i g h t l y i f n e e d e d t o m e l t t h e c a r n a u b a . Then t h e r e m a i n d e r o f t h e components c a n be added and m i x e d a t a tempe r a t u r e o f 70C. A f t e r t h e p r o d u c t i s homogeneous, u s e a s h e a r m i x e r a t l o w s p e e d f o r 45 t o 60 m i n u t e s , m a i n t a i n i n g a s i m i l a r temperature. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a a n d i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : Other o i l s n a t u r a l o r s y n t h e t i c can e a s i l y be s u b s t i t u t e d t o meet t h e f o r m u l a t o r ' s n e e d s , c o s t , a v a i l a b i l i t y , e t c . w i t h o u t s i g n i f i c a n t l y changing t h e c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . Higher m e l t i n g p o i n t s can e a s i l y be achieved w i t h o n l y s l i g h t a l t e r a t i o n s i n wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n . B i o l o g i c a l l y a c t i v e compounds a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h e f o r m u l a s . D e p e n d i n g on t h e d e s i r e d c o l o r and t h e b l e n d o f p i g m e n t s used, t h e r e w i l l be a need f o r s m a l l i n g r e d i e n t c o n c e n t r a t i o n changes i n t h e f o r m u l a due t o t h e p i g m e n t ' s e f f e c t on t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e m i x t u r e .
SOURCE:
K o s t e r Keunen I n c . :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Beauty Aids
81
L ips t ic & Component: .W - t% I.M y r i t o l 318 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e 14.0 6.0 M y r i t o 1 PC P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e Eutanol G Octyldodecanol 17.0 Candel i 11 a Cera 7.0 Carnauba Cera 5.5 Cera A l b a 6.5 2.5 G e n e r o l 122 N Soya S t e r o l Dehymuls PGPH P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 D i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e 4.0 3.0 Monomuls 9 0 L 12 H y d r o g e n a t e d Palm G l y c e r i d e s 18.0 R i c i nus communi s C a s t o r o i 1 Color pigments q.s. 1 I . H y d a g e n CMF C h i t o s a n G l y c o l a t e 10.0 I I I . C o p h e r o 1 F 1300 T o c o p h e r o l 2.0 Preparation i n the Laboratory: 1 . M e l t t h e components l i s t e d under I a t 80-85C and s t i r u n t i l t h e p i g m e n t s a r e c o m p l e t e l y i n c o r p o r a t e d . Homogenise once w i t h a t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and h e a t up a g a i n t o 80-85C. 2 . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase 1 1 one a f t e r t h e o t h e r and s t i r f o r 5 m i n u t e s a t 8OC. Pass m i x t u r e t w i c e more t h r o u g h t h e t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and m e l t a g a i n a t a p p r o x . 80C. 3 . F o r a p e a r l - s h i n e l i p s t i c k add t h e p e a r l i s e r and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. 4 . Cast w i t h s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e m o u l d s . A l l o w t o c o o l down t o a p p r o x . 30C and keep i n t h e r e f r i g e r a t o r o v e r n i g h t . F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 94/056/178 L -i p~s
tick
. Component: .-
y/t/ M y r i t o 1 31 8 C a p r y l ic / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e 14.0 6.0 M y r i t o 1 PC P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e 17.0 Eutanol G Octyldodecanol 5.5 Candel i 11 a Cera Carnauba Cera 7.0 Bienenwachs 8100 Cera A l b a 6.5 G e n e r o l 122 N Soya S t e r o l 2.5 Dehymul s PGPH P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 D i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e 4.0 Monomuls 90 L 12 H y d r o g e n a t e d Palm G l y c e r i d e s 3.0 Castor o i l 18.0 9,s. Color pigments I 1 Hydagen CMF C h i t o s a n G l y c o l a t e 10.0 2.0 I I I C o p h e r o l F 1300 T o c o p h e r o l Preparation i n the Laboratory: 1 . M e l t t h e components l i s t e d under I . a t 80-85C and s t i r u n t i l t h e p i g m e n t s a r e c o m p l e t e l y i n c o r p o r a t e d . Homogenise once w i t h a t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and h e a t up a g a i n t o 80-85C. 2 . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase I 1 one a f t e r t h e o t h e r and s t i r f o r 5 m i n u t e s a t 8OC. Pass m i x t u r e t w i c e more t h r o u g h t h e t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and m e l t a g a i n a t a p p r o x . 80C. 3 . F o r a p e a r l - s h i n e l i p s t i c k add t h e p e a r l i s e r and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. 4 . Cast w i t h s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e m o u l d s . A l l o w t o c o o l down t o a p p r o x . 30C and keep i n t h e r e f r i g e r a t o r o v e r n i g h t . F o r m u l a t i o n No.: 94/056/179
I.
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
82
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
L-is _s_t_l:ck wto/, 30.0 3.0
R&W-M3!SIi3.lS_1 A : Castor o i l D&C Red #7 Amihope LL Mica T i 02 B:
1.o 12.0 4.0
22.4 5.7 1.8 4.0 9.0 2.0 0.1 5.0
Castor o i l Candellila Carnauba Cereci n M y r i t o l 318 Mineral o i l Propyl paraben Eldew CL-301
Procedure: M i x ( A ) p i g m e n t s w i t h Amihope L L i n a h i g h speed m i x e r f o r several minutes, then disperse t h e t r e a t e d pigments i n c a s t o r o i l with t r i p l e r o l l m i l l . D i s s o l v e a l l ( B ) i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h h e a t i n g and add t o ( A ) i n t r i p l e r o l l m i l l . M o l d and c o o l down. F o r m u l a LP-205 Lipstick WJ R 55.0 4.8 2.0 4.0 15.0 5.0
Ingredients: Castor o i l C a n d e l i l 1 a wax Carnauba wax Ozokeri t e C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i de Eldew CL-301
A:
B:
7.4 2.2 3.0 1.6
Mica ron oxide Ye1 1 ow D&C Red # 7 A m i hope LL
Procedure: M i x ( A ) i n g r e d i e n t s a t 80C. M i x ( B ) i n g r e d i e n t s i n a t u r b o a f i n e & homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n i s o b t a i n e d . Add mixer u n t i ( B ) t o ( A ) and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m , t h e n p o u r i n t o m o l d s . Features: Eldew CL-301 i m p r o v e s s p r e a d a b i l i t y , colors i n lipsticks. F o r m u l a LP-203 SOURCE:
Ajinomoto U . S . A . ,
g l o s s and v i v i d n e s s o f
I n c . : Eldew CL-301 A p p l i c a t i o n s
Beauty Aids
Lipstick with Mialvol Gel Raw Materials: A) Miglyol Gel B (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate) Dynacerin 660 (Oleyl Erucate) Softisan 649 (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2) Miglyol 829 (Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride) Imwitor 780K (Isostearyl Diglyceryl Succinate) Softigen 767 (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides) Lanolin Oil Beeswax Candelilla Wax
Wt% 10.00 5.00 10.00 6.00 6.00 5.00
10.00 7.00 8.00
B) Rewopal PIB 1000 (Polyisobutene) Lanolin Wax Sodium Stearate Antioxidants
22.00
C) Color Fragrance
10.00
10.00 1.00 g.s. 0.50
Preparation: (A) is melted and stirred until homogeneous. (B) is melted and added to (A). (C) is added, and the mass is poured into molds. Formulation Z.ZB(1)
Creamy LiDstick Base (With AHA-Ester1 Raw Materials: Imwitor 370 (Glyceryl Cocoate/Citrate/Lactate) Imwitor 380 (Glyceryl Cocoate/Citrate/Lactate) Softisan 100 (Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides) Softisan 649 (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2) Dynacerin 660 (Oleyl Erucate) Castor Oil Beeswax/Carnauba Wax Antioxidants
Wt% 5.00
8.00
28.00 15.00 12.00 15.00 17.00 q.s.
Preparation: All ingredients are melted together at about 75 degrees C. Formulation 2.2R SOURCE: Creanova I n c . : Suggested Formulations
83
84
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Lip Stick with Softisan Gel Raw Materials: A ) Softisan Gel (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1 (and)
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate) Dynacerin 660 (Oleyl Erucate) Softisan 649 (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2) Softisan 100 (Hydrogenated Cocoglycerides) Miglyol 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) White Soft Paraffin Hard Paraffin Beeswax
4.50 2.50 5.50 27.00
16.00 9.00 14.00 10.50 10.00 1.00
B) Color Fragrance
Preparation: (A) is melted and stirred until homogeneous. (B) is added, and it is poured into molds. Formulation 2.2M(2) Lip Care Stick with SPF ca.6 Raw Materials: wt% A) Miglyol 840 (Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate) 11.00 4.00 Softisan 649 (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2) 9.00 Beeswax 4.00 Candelilla Wax 2.00 Paraffin Oil 56.00 Castor Oil 6.00 Sachtotec LA 10 (Zinc Oxide) 4.00 Eusolex 6007 (octyl Dimethyl PABA) 1.00 Timiron Silk Red (Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide) B) Fragrance Antioxidants
q.s. q.s.
Preparation: (A) is heated up to 80 degrees C, and stirred until homogeneous. (€3) is added, and the mass is poured into molds. Formulation 2.29 SOURCE: Creanova Inc.: Suggested Formulations
Beauty Aids
L i p s t i c k w i t h T i m i r o n M P - 6 0 , MP-65 I N C I Name/Trade Name: Wt% Phase A : Castor O i l 7.00 D&C Red #7 C a l c i u m L a k e / C I S - O l l R u b i n e L a k e 1.50 D&C Red # 6 B a r i u m L a k e ( a n d ) R o s i n / C 1 9 - 0 2 2 L i g h t R u b i n e Lake 1.50 Phase B: Castor O i l 33.70 C a n d e l l i 1 a Wax 5.70 C a r n a u b a Wax 1.80 O z o k e r i t e Wax #77W 1.50 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax # 2 1 4 3.00 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e / M y r i t o 1 318 16.00 M i n e r a l O i 1 90 SUS/Blandol 2.00 O c t y l d o d e c y l S t e a r o y l S t e a r a t e / C e r a p h y l 847 5.00 O c t y l Dodecanol/Eutanol G 5.00 H y d r o x y l a t e d L a n o l i n/OH1 a n 1.oo M e t h y l Paraben 0,20 P r o p y l Paraben 0.10 Phase C : Mica (and) I r o n Oxides (and) T i t a n i u m Dioxide/ T i m i r o n MP-60, MP-65 15.00 Procedure: Combine Phase A . S t i r w i t h a h i g h i n t e n s i t mixer u n t i l homogeneous. P a s s a c r o s s a t h r e e r o l l m i l l u n i 1 a g g l o m e r a t e s a r e r e d u c e d t o l e s s t h a n 25 urn. Combine Phase 8 . H e a t t o 80-85C w i t h Lightnin' mixer agitation, s t i r r i n g u n t i c l e a r . Add Phase A . Add Phase C , m a i n t a i n i n g a g i t a t i o n u n t i l d s p e r s e d . P o u r i n t o ambient t e m p e r a t u r e molds a t 72-74C. F o r m u l a AS1 - 9
____ Blackstar Lipstick I N C I Name/Trade Name: _ W _t % Phase A : Castor O i l 39.40 C a n d e l l i 1 a Wax 6.30 C a r n a u b a Wax 2.00 O z o k e r i t e Wax #77W 1.80 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax # 2 1 4 3.30 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e / M y r i t o l 318 17.70 M i n e r a l O i l 90 S U S / B l a n d o l 2.20 O c t y l d o d e c y l S t e a r o y l S t e a r a t e / C e r a p h y l 847 5.55 Octyldodecanol/Eutanol G 5.55 Hydroxylated Lanolin/OHlan 1. l o M e t h y l Paraben 0.20 P r o p y l Paraben 0.10 Phase B: I r o n O x i d e s and M i c a / C o l o r o n a B l a c k s t a r C o l o r s 15.00 Procedure: Combine Phase A . H e a t t o 80-85C w i t h L i g h t n i n ' m i x e r a g i t a t i o n , s t i r r i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add Phase B, m a i n t a i n i n g a g i t a t i o n u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . Pour i n t o a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e m o l d s a t 72-74C. F o r m u l a AS1 - 7 SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
85
86
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Liauid Crystal Make-up Inqredients: Wt% A) Water 58.70 Arlatone 2121, Sorbitan Stearate (and) Sucrose Cocoate 2.50 Glycerin 4.00 B) Ultrafine Titanium Dioxide, Titanium Dioxide 12.00 Yellow Iron Oxide, Iron Oxide 2.00 Red Iron Oxide, Iron Oxide 0.40 Black Iron Oxide, Iron Oxide 0.25 C) Xanthan Gum 0.15 D) Arlamol S7, Cyclomethicone (and) PPG-15 Stearyl Ether 20.00 E) Preservative, Quaternium-15 Q.S. Preparation Method: 1) Heat and stir (A) to BOC. 2) Blend (B) well at room temperature. 3 ) Slowly add (B) at RT to (A) at 80C with good agitation. 4) When the temperature of (AB) drops to 75C, add (C) with moderate stirring. 5) When (ABC) is uniform, add (D) to (ABC) and homogenize for a few minutes (until temperature drops to 65C). 6 ) Return to propeller stirring and continue stirring until temperature drops to 45C. At this point add (E) and any water lost due to evaporation. Switch to sweep type agitation and stir to room temperature. Formula CP1207 Water-in-Oil Make-uv Inaredients: Wt% A) Arlacel P135, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate 2.00 Arlamol 57, Cyclomethicone (and) PPG-15 Stearyl Ether 6.00 Arlamol HD, Isohexadecane 12.00 B) Atlas G-2330, Sorbeth-30 4.00 MgS04-7H20, Magnesium Sulfate 0.70 Water 60.65 C) Ultrafine Titanium Dioxide, Titanium Dioxide 12.00 2.00 Yellow Iron Oxide, Iron Oxide Black Iron Oxide, Iron Oxide 0.25 Red Iron Oxide, Iron Oxide 0.40 D) Preservative, Quaternium-15 Q.S. Preparation Method: 1) Heat and stir (A) to 75C. 2) Heat and stir (B) to 85C. 3 ) Blend (C) well at room temperature. 4) Slowly add (B) to (A) with good agitation. 5 ) After (A) & (B) are mixed begin adding (C) at room temperature to (AB) using propeller agitation. 6) Homogenize (ABC) for a few minutes and then switch back to sweep type agitation and stir to room temperature. Add (D) to (ABC) at any temperature below 50C. Formula CP1208 SOURCE: ICI Surfactants: Suggested Formulations
Beauty Aids
L i q u i d Foundation w i t h Extender W I N C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A : Dei o n i zed Water H y d r o x y l a t e d L e c i t h i n / A l c o l e c 2-3 Phase B : M i c a ( a n d ) T i t a n i um D i o x i d e / E x t e n d e r W M i ca/Mi c a MRP M i c a ( a n d ) Red I r o n O x i d e / T r a n s p a r e n t Red M i c a ( a n d ) Iron O x i d e s / T r a n s p a r e n t Y e l l o w Ochre M i c a ( a n d ) B l a c k Iron O x i d e / T r a n s p a r e n t B l a c k Phase C : Propylene Glycol Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e / V e e g u m Phase D : P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l C e l l u l o s e Gum/CMC 7H3SF Phase E : Dei o n i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% Phase F : S u c r o s e C o c o a t e / C r o d e s t a SL40 M e t h y l Paraben D i s o d i um EDTA Phase G: P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e D i c a p r a t e / E d e n o l 302 I s o s t e a r y l S t e a r o y l S t e a r a t e / H e t e s t e r ISS S o r b i t a n M o n o l a u r a t e / A r l a c e l 20 C e t y l A1 coho1 Stearic Acid Oleic Acid BHA P r o p y l Paraben Phase H : DMDM H y d a n t o i n 55%/Glydant D e i o n i zed Water
48.92 0.10 4.84 4.61 2.40 1.90 0.25 4.00 1 .oo 4.00 0.15
5.00 1.oo
.so
1 0.20
0.05 10.00 2.00 2.50 1.25 1 .50 0.50 0.05 0.10
0.18 2.00
Procedure: Water Phase: Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. Add Phase B, h o m o g e n i z i n g u n t i l no u n d i s p e r s e d p i g m e n t r e m a i n s . Combine and add Phase C . Homogenize and h e a t t o 9OC for 15 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 75C. Combine and add Phase D and Phase E , m a i n t a i n i n g homogeni z e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i 1 no u n d i s p e r s e d p a r t i c l e s r e m a i n . Add Phase F . O i l Phase: Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase G s e p a r a t e l y f r o m t h e w a t e r phase. Heat t o 75-8OC w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i l homogeneous. E m u l s i f i c a t i o n : Add o i l phase t o w a t e r phase w i t h homogenizer a g i t a t i o n . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e and h o m o g e n i z a t i o n f o r 15 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 45C w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Combine and add Phase H . Cool t o 30C.
SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c , : F o r m u l a EM3-39-1
87
88
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
L i q u i d F o u n d a t i o n w i t h Low L u s t r e Piament C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A : D e i o n i z e d Water H y d r o x y l a t e d L e c i t h i n / A l c o l e c 2-3 Phase B : Low L u s t r e P i gment/Rona Phase C : P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Magnesi um A 1 umi num S i 1 icate/Veegum Phase D : P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l C e l l u l o s e Gum/CMC 7H3SF Phase E : Dei o n i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 9 9% Phase F : S u c r o s e Cocoate C r o d e s t a SL40 M e t h y l Paraben D i s o d i urn EDTA Phase G : P r o o v l e n e G l v c o D i c a p r y l a t e D i c a p r a t e / E d e n o l 302 Isostearyl Stearoyl Stearate/Hetester I S S S o r b i t a n M o n o l a u r a t e / A r l a c e l 20 C e t y l A 1 coho1 Stearic Acid Oleic Acid BHA P r o p y l Paraben Phase H : DMOM H y d a n t o i n 5 5 % / G l y d a n t D e i o n i z e d Water
IN
W
O
52.92 0.10
10.00 4.00 1.oo 4.00 0.15 5-00 1.oo 1.50 0.20 0.05
10.00 2,OO 2.50 1.25 1 .50 0.50 0.05 0.10 0.18 2.00
Procedure: Water Phase: Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. Add Phase B , h o m o g e n i z i n g u n t i l no u n d i s p e r s e d p i g m e n t r e m a i n s . Combine and add Phase C . Homogenize and h e a t t o 9OC f o r 15 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 75C. Combine and add Phase D and Phase E , m a i n t a i n i n g homogenizer a g i t a t i o n u n t i l no u n d i s p e r s e d p a r t i c l e s r e m a i n . Add Phase F . O i l Phase: Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase G s e p a r a t e l y f r o m t h e w a t e r phase. Heat t o 75-8OC w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i l homogeneous. E m u l s i f i c a t i o n : Add o i l phase t o w a t e r phase w i t h homogenizer a g i t a t i o n . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e and h o m o g e n i z a t i o n f o r 15 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 45C w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Combine and add Phase H . Cool t o 30C.
SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,
Inc.: F o r m u l a EM3-21-4
Beauty Aids
L i q u i d Makeup F o r m u l a t i o n - 2 Ingredients. MAS T y p e I A D e i o n i z e d Water Triethanolamine G1 y c e r e t h - 2 6 P i gment B1 e n d Isopropyl Isostearate Mineral O i l (and) L a n o l i n Alcohol Isopropyl Palmitate Isopropyl Myri s t a t e H y d r o g e n a t e d Soy G l y c e r i d e Stearic Acid D i o c t y l A d i p a t e (and) O c t y l S t e a r a t e (and) O c t y l Palmi t a t e Cocoyl S a r c o s i ne L i t h i um S t e a r a t e Preservative B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y @ 12 rpm A f t e r A g i n g 1 Day, 2000 1300 A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks. 1 2 0 0 Y i e l d Value,
Dynes/Sq.
Cm.
Wt% 1.oo 53.00 0.75 10.50 5.29 9.06 6.50 4.00 2.50 2.10 1 .60
cps'
90
F o r m u l a pH: 6 1 A f t e r A g i n g 1 Day 6 2 A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks. 6 2 S t a b i l i t y Observations: A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week @ Room Temp A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks @ Room Temp
OK OK
A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week (a 6C O K A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks @ 6'2. OK A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week @ 3 8 C . OK OK A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks @ 38C A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week @ 50C. O K A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks @ 5 0 C . S e p a r a t i o n
SOURCE:
R.T.
Vanderbilt Co.,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
2.10 1.oo 0.10 0.50
89
90
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Lona L a s t i n a L i p s t i c k Wt% Go mpo n e nt: 13.0 I.M y r i t o l 318 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e 6.0 M y r i t o l PC P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e D i c p r t e U i t r a L a n t r o l HP 2074 L a n o l i n O i l 2.5 IPP Isopropyl Palmitate 12.0 C a n d e l i l l a Cera 6.5 L u n a c e r a M M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 2.5 Carnauba Cera 1.o Cera A l b a 4.0 Lanol i n 7.0 1. o A n t a r o n WP 6 6 0 G e n e r o l 122N Soybean S t e r o l 3.5 0.05 C o n t r o x KS T i t a n i urn D i o x i d e 0.5 19.95 R i c i nus communi s C a s t o r o i 1 n . 8 . /q.s . Color pigments 1 I . H v d a a e n CMF C h i t o s a n G l y c o l a t e 10.0 I . M e l t - t h e components l i s t e d u n d e r I a t 80-85C and s t i r u n t i 1 t h e p i g m e n t s a r e c o m p l e t e l y i n c o r p o r a t e d . Homogenise once w i t h a t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and h e a t up a g a i n t o 80-85C. 2 . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase I 1 one a f t e r t h e o t h e r and s t i r f o r 5 m i n u t e s a t 8OC. Pass m i x t u r e t w i c e more t h r o u g h t h e t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and m e l t a g a i n a t a p p r o x . 8OC. 3 . F o r a p e a r l - s h i n e l i p s t i c k add t h e p e a r l i s e r and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. 4 . Cast w i t h s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e m o u l d s . A l l o w t o c o o l down t o a p p r o x . 30C and keep i n t h e r e f r i g e r a t o r o v e r n i g h t . F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 94/056/151 _ Care __ Ld _s _ tick . Component: Wt% I . M y r i t o l 318 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e 14.0 6.5 M y r i t o l PC P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e D i c a p r a t e U l t r a L a n t r o l HP 2074 L a n o l i n O i l 2.7 I P P Isopropyl Palmitate 13.0 7.0 Candel i 11a Cera 2.7 L u n a c e r a M M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax Carnauba Cera 1 .o Cera A l b a 4.3 Lanol i n 7.5 Monomuls 60-35C H y d r o g e n a t e d Palm G l y c e r i d e s 3.7 0.05 C o n t r o x KS Homobi t e c L5 T i t a n i um d i o x i d e 5.4 R i c i nus communi s C a s t o r o i 1 22.15 1 I . H y d a g e n CMF C h i t o s a n G l y c o l a t e 10.0 1 . M e l t t h e components l i s t e d u n d e r I a t 80-85C and s t i r u n t i l t h e p i g m e n t s a r e c o m p l e t e l y i n c o r p o r a t e d . Homogenise once w i t h a t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and h e a t up a g a i n t o 80-85C. 2 . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase I 1 one a f t e r t h e o t h e r and s t i r f o r 5 m i n u t e s a t 8OC. Pass m i x t u r e t w i c e more t h r o u g h t h e t r i p l e r o l l p r e s s and m e l t a g a i n a t a p p r o x . 8OC. 3 . F o r a p e a r l - s h i n e l i p s t i c k add t h e p e a r l i s e r and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. 4 . Cast w i t h s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e m o u l d s . A l l o w t o c o o l down t o a p p r o x . 30C and keep i n t h e refrigerator overnight. F o r m u l a t i o n N o . : 94/056/146 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids
91
L u x u r i o u s Makeup (W/O) Inqredients: A:
. W-t.%
1.2 37.9
Veegum Water Magnesium S u l f a t e
0.4 5.5
8: T a l c Kaol i n Titanium Dioxide I r o n Oxides C:
1.5 5.0 3.0 15.0 8.0 8.0 7.0 5.0 1.5
Mineral O i l Light Polysynlane R i tachol Lanapene 70% S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n W i t c a m i de 5 1 1 Preservatives
9,s.
Procedure: Add t h e Veegum t o t h e w a t e r s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y u n t i l smooth ( f o r d e t a i l e d p r e p a r a t i o n recommendations, see Veeaum s m o o t h ) . G r i n d B and add t o A , m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add-A and B t o C and m i x u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Packing: T h i s f o r m u l a i s a f l u i d l o t on s u i t a b l e f o r d i s p e n s i n g f r o m a s t a n d a r d l i q u i d makeup b o t t l e . Comment s : T h i s f o r m u l a c o n s t i t u t e s an e c o n o m i c a l , c o l d p r o c e s s W / O e m u l s i o n s t a b i l i z e d b y t h e use o f Veegum. I t i s an e l e g a n t m o i s t u r i z i n g makeup f o r d r y s k i n . Veegum s e r v e s t o n o t o n l y s t a b i l i z e t h e e m u l s i o n and h e l p c o n t r o l v i s c o s i t y , b u t a l s o t o i n s u r e u n i f o r m c o l o r t h r o u g h o u t t h e p r o d u c t w i t h no c o l o r s t r e a k i n g o r s e t t l i n g . By f o r m u l a t i n g t h e p i g m e n t s i n t o t h e i n t e r n a l phase, where t h e y a r e suspended by t h e Veegum, t h e s t a b i l i t y o f t h e e m u l s i o n i t s e l f i n s u r e s t h a t no p i g m e n t s e t t l i n g can o c c u r . The makeup s p r e a d s s m o o t h l y w i t h a r i c h , n o n - g r e a s y f e e l , l e a v i n g a u n i f o r m pigment f i l m p l u s t h e e f f e c t i v e e m o l l i e n t s and m o i s t u r i z e r s o f t h e e x t e r n a l p h a s e . T h i s f o r m u l a w o u l d b e a s u i t a b l e base f o r a l i n e o f l u x u r i o u s makeups f o r t h e m a t u r e woman w i t h d r y s k i n p r o b l e m s . The CTFA a d o p t e d name f o r Veegum is magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1ic a t e . SOURCE: P o l y e s t e r C o r p . :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
92
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Ma k e u e p ___ emover (Wash o f f t y p e )
Wt%
__.__ Raw M a t e r i a l s : A c y l g l u t a m a t e CT-12
20.0
2-Alkyl-N-Carboxymethyl-N-hydroxyethyl Imidazolidinium Betaine Coconut f a t t y a c i d d i e t h a n o l a m i d e G1 y c e r i n A j i d e w N-50 L a u r y l monophosphoric a c i d T r i e t h a n o l ami n e Ethylene glycol d i stearate Citric acid P y r o t e r CPI-40 P y r o t e r CPI-60 Methylparaben Perfume Water
28.0 5.0 1.8 1.o 2.0 1.o 2.0 1.2 1.5 1.5
0.2 0.2 balance
Procedure: D i s s o l v e t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and g l y c e r i n i n w a t e r and h e a t u p t o 60C, t h e n a d d l a u r y l m o n o p h o s p h o r i c a c i d g r a d u a l l y . Add t h e o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s a n d d i s s o l v e a t 70C. C o o l down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h s t i rri ng. pH: 5 . 2 V i s c o s i t y : 2600 c p s F o r m u l a MRW-08 Makeup Remover (wash o f f t y p e )
__Wt%
Raw M a t e r i a l s : A c y l g l u t a m a t e HS-11 Water Methyl paraben
A-r
4.0
23.8 0.2
B: M i n e r a l o i l G l y c e r y l monostearate S . E . B u t y l paraben
70.4 1.5
0.1
Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) b y h e a t i n g a t 80-85C a n d c o o l down t o 30C q u i c k l y . M i x ( 8 ) a t 25C w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add (5) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h h o m o g e n i z i n g . C o o l down t o 1OC w i t h s t i r r i n g . F o r m u l a MRE-06
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A . ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids
Make-up Remover ( L i q u i d Crystal Gel ) MRJ-R1 c o n t a i n s much o i l and w a t e r . As MRJ-R1 uses g e n t l e a n i o n i c s u r f a c t a n t , we f e e l v e r y r e f r e s h e d a f t e r washing o u r s k i n . Raw M a t e r i a l s : A m i s o f t CT-12s A m i s o f t CK-11 NaC1 Water Preservative
A:
Wt%
(30%)
21.6 2.9 1.4 qs
qs
8 : PEG-I0 G l y c e r y l T r i s o s t e a r a t e (Emalex GWIS-310) PEG-20 G l y c e r y l T r i s o s t e a r a t e (Emalex GWIS-320) Mineral O i l (Silko P 5 5 ) ( v i s c o s i t y 29 C P S ) O c t y l dodecanol Preservative Fragrance
5.8 23.0 26.9 3.8
qs qs
1 . Heat A t o 50-60C a d s t i r up u n t i l i t c o m p l e t e l y becomes uniform. 2 . Heat B t o 50-60C and s t i r up u n t i l i t c o m p l e t e l y becomes uniform. 3 . Add A s l o w l y t o B and s t i r u p . 4 . S t a r t vacuuming ( 7 0 0 mm Hg) and c o o l i n g down t o 30C. F o r m u l a N o . MRJ-R3
Make
UP
Remover
Raw Materials:. A : A c y l g l u t a r n a t e HS-21 Isosteari c acid B: Mineral o i l Emalex GWIS-320 Emalex GWIS-330
Wt% 2.2 6. 7 77.7 6.7 6.7
Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) and ( B ) a t 80C. Add ( A ) t o ( B ) w i t h s t i r r i n g Cool down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a No. MRJ-07
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U , S . A , , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
93
94
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Mascara T h i s mascara e y e l a s h makeup cream a p p l i e s b e a u t i f u l l y f r o m an a u t o m a t i c mascara u n i t c o n t a i n i n g a b r u s h f o r a p p l i c a t i o n . The u r e t h a n e p o l y m e r ( A v a l u r e UR 450 p o l y m e r ) c o n t r i b u t e s b u l k and adherence t o t h e eye1 ashes a1 1owi ng f o r a 1ong-1 a s t i ng plump l o o k . I t a l s o e l i m i n a t e s t h e need f o r any o f t h e o t h e r gums s u c h as gum a r a b i c i n t h e p r o d u c t . L n S r e d i . e n t i l r ade--Narne~ WAS/, Part A: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 59.50 2 . M e t h y l p a r a b e n NF 0.10 3 . H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l C e l l u l o s e / M e t h o c e l 40-202 0.20 2.80 4. T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e ( 9 9 % ) 5 . DL-Panthenol USP 0.50 6 . U r e t h a n e P o l y m e r / A v a l u r e UR 450 Polymer 6.00 7 . PVP-K3O 2.00 Part 8 : 8 . I r o n Oxides/C33-7734 Cosmetic B l a c k 2.00 Part C: 9 . S t e a r i c A c i d / E m e r s o l 132 5.50 10.Baybet-ry Wax 1.80 1 1 . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e / P r o t a c h e m GMS-450 1.70 12.Beeswax, W h i t e 4.50 2.70 13.Carnauba Wax, P r i m e # I Y e l l o w , R e f i n e d F l a k e s 14.WW Gum R o s i n 1.80 1 5 . P r o p y l p a r a b e n NF 0.10 Part D: 1 6 . S i m e t h i cone/Mi r a s i 1 SM 0.10 17.Wheat Germ O i l / L i p o v o l WGO 0.10 1 8 . Phenoni p 0.10 0.50 19.Germaben I 1 Preparation Procedure: Part A : 1 . Add t h e d e i o n i z e d w a t e r t o a s u i t a b l e k e t t l e and b e g i n h e a t i n g t h e w a t e r t o 40C. Add t h e m e t h y l p a r a b e n and m i x u n t i l d i s solved. 2 . T u r n t h e h e a t o f f and add t h e M e t h o c e l . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m l y d i s p e r s e d and u n t 1 no lumps a p p e a r . 3 . Add t h e t r i e t h a n o amine and m i x u n t i l t h e gum i s h y d r a t e d and clear. 4. Add t h e P a n t h e n o l and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . 5 . Add t h e A v a l u r e UR 450 p o l y m e r and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l t h e mixture i s uniform. 6 . Add t h e PVP powder and mix u n t i l a l l o f t h e powder i s i n s o l u t i o n and P a r t A i s u n i f o r m . M a i n t a i n t h e t e m p e r a t u r e b u t r a i s e i t t o 75C j u s t b e f o r e c o m b i n i n g w i t h P a r t s B & C . P a r t 8 & C: 7 . Mix a l l o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C ( o i l phase) i n a s u i t a b l e k e t t l e and m e l t t o 75C. 8 . When a l l o f P a r t C has been m e l t e d , add t h e p i g m e n t o f P a r t B t o i t and m i x u n t i l t h e p i g m e n t i s c o m p l e t e l y w e t t e d / u n i f o r m . 9 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and b e g i n c o o l i n g and a t 50C add S i m e t h i c o n e , Wheat Germ O i l and p r e s e r v a t i v e s . C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g t o R T . SOURCE: BF G o o d r i c h S p e c i a l t y C h e m i c a l s : F o r m u l a t i o n A0002
Beauty Aids
95
M o i s t u r i z i n q M i l k Creme w i t h M o n a s i l PCA T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n p r o v i d e s a h i g h d e g r e e o f s u b s t a n t i v i t y and c o n d i t i o n i n g . I t helps t o minimize o r a l l e v i a t e dry s k i n condit i o n s w h i l e l e a v i n g a smooth n o n - g r e a s y a f t e r - f e e l . Part: A A
A A A
B B
B B
Raw M a t e r i a l : Monalac MPL Monaquat SL-5 Water P o t a s s i urn H y d r o x i d e (45%) M o n a s i l PCA Monafax MAP 1 6 0 Monalac ML Cetearyl Alcohol I s o p r o p y l Palmi t a t e
3.0 5.0 57.7 0.2 4.0
0.5 20.0 5.1
2.0
Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y and h e a t t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and c o n t i n u e t o homogenize. S t i r - c o o l , w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n , t o 40C, add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 t h e n f i l l . Appearance: H i g h m o i s t u r i z i n g m i 1 k y creme F o r m u l a t i o n F-717 Pump D i s o e n s i b l e L u x u r i o u s Body M o i s t u r i z e r
__ Part: A
A A A A
Raw M a t e r i a l : Dei o n i zed Water Monalac MPL Monalac MO Monaquat SL-5 Glycerin
W 2 71 . 3 4.0 5.0 3.0 4.0
B
Monalac ML Cetearyl Alcohol 01 e y l A1 coho1
6.0 4.0 2.0
C C
Fragrance Preservative
0.2 0.5
€3
B
Procedure: Heat b o t h p a r t s (A and B ) s e p a r a t e l y t o 70C. Add P a r t 6 t o P a r t A and homogenize w e l l a t 70-75C. S t i r c o o l w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n t o 40-45C and add f r a g r a n c e , p r e s e r v a t i v e , e t c . A d j u s t t h e pH t o 5 . 0 - 6 . 0 t h e n f i l l . Odor and Appearance: P l e a s a n t l y s c e n t e d , pump d i s p e n s i b l e , m i 1 ky creme/l o t ion F o r m u l a t i o n F-730
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
96
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisturizinq Milk Creme Lotion F-712 with Silicone PLN and Hiqh Fracrrance Level Part: A A A A A
Raw Material: Monalac MPL Monaquat SL-5 Water Potassium Hydroxide (45%) Monasil PLN
Wt% 5.0 5.0 55.7 0.2 4.0
B B
Monafax MAP 160 Monalac ML Cetearyl Alcohol Isopropyl Palmitate
0.5 20.0 5.1 2.0
C C
Fragrance Preservative
B
B
2.0
0.5
Procedure: Combine ingredients in both phases separately and heat to 75C. Add (B) to (A) and continue to homogenize. Stir-cool, with minimal aeration, to 40C, add fragrance, color and preservative. Adjust pH to 6.0 then fill. Physical Properties: Appearance: Flowable high moisturizing milky lotion Formulation F-712 Flowable Moisturizinq Milk Creme F-713 with High Fraqrance Level Part: A A A A
Wt%
Raw Material Monalac MPL Monaquat SL-5 Water Potassium Hydroxide (45%)
5.0 5.0 59.7
B B B
Monafax MAP 160 Monalac ML Cetearyl Alcohol Isopropyl Palmitate
0.5 20.0 5.1 2.0
C C
Fragrance Preservative
B
0.2
2.0 0.5
Procedure: Combine ingredients in both phases separately and heat to 75C. Add (B) to (A) and continue to homogenize. Stir-cool, with minimal aeration, to 40C, add fragrance, color and preservative. Adjust pH to 6.0 then fill. Physical Properties: Appearance: High moisturizing flowable milky creme. Formulation F-713
SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Suggested Formulations
Beauty Aids
N o n i o n i c L i q u i d Makeup Wt% 0.75 0.15 67.10 4.00 0.30
IE g r ed.1 e n t s : A ' Veegum Keltrol Water Glycerin C i t r i c acid 8: Talc Titanium dioxide I r o n oxides
5.00
C:
5.00 2.50 2.00
5.00 3.70
Ritachol C r o d a m o l MM Polysynlane Oleyl alcohol Cosmowax Tween 8 5
2.00 2.00 0.05
Preservative
9,s.
Procedure: Add t h e d r y b l e n d o f Veegum a n d K e l t r o l t o t h e w a t e r s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y w i t h t h e h i g h e s t shear a v a i l a b l e u n t i l s m o o t h . Add t h e g l y c e r i n and c i t r i c a c i d and m i x u n t i l s m o o t h . M i x B ( g r i n d i f n e c e s s a r y ) u n t i l homogeneous. Add B a n d A a n d m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . H e a t A a n d B t o 6 0 - 6 5 C . H e a t C t o 60-65C. Add C t o A a n d B a n d m i x u n t i l c o o l .
Moisturizing Skin Milk n gredl en t_.s Polysynlane I ,P.M L a n o l i n Wax Stearic Acid Cetanol G l y c e r y l Mono S t e a r a t e PEG-200 Mono S t e a r a t e S o l u l a n 16 Triethanolamine Propylene Glycol Perfume & P r e s e r v a t i v e s Water
SOURCE:
P o l y e s t e r Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
w t Yo 6.0 4.0 1.o 2.5
0.5 1.o 1.5 1.o 0.3 6.0
ad.
q.s. 100.0
97
98
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Oil-in-Water
Hydro-Gel
f o r S e n s i t i v e S k i n (Paqe 1 )
The f o l l o w i n g f o r m u l a t i o n i l l u s t r a t e s t h e o u t s t a n d i n g v e r s a t i l i t y o f A r l a t o n e 2121 compared w i t h c l a s s i c HLB-type e m u l s i f i e r s . Two d i f f e r e n t f o r m u l a t i o n s a r e m i x e d t o g e t h e r t o o b t a i n an end f o r m u l a t i o n w i t h o u t s t a n d i n g l i g h t n e s s , smoothness and s t a b i l i t y . T h i s t y p e o f f o r m u l a t i o n , w i t h a l o w o i l phase and an e x t e n d e d amount o f bound m o i s t u r e , f i t s v e r y w e l l i n t h i s new c o n c e p t o f " g e l - c r e a m s " . O i 1-in-Water Hydro-Gel
f o r Sensitive Skin
ytv 50.0 50 0
Inqredients: A O i l - i n - w a t e r m o i s t u r i s i n g m i l k F41-5-16A B H y d r a t i n g g e l F41-5-168
I
Manufacture: M i x b o t h f o r m u l a t i o n s a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . Comments: V i s c o s i t y : 16,692 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, s p i n d l e D, 6 rpm) Energy i n p u t i s r e l a t e d t o f i n a l f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y . F o r m u l a t i o n F41-5-16 The s e p a r a t e components a r e : H y d r a t i na Gel
Inqredien-;
wto/, 89.3 0.4
A Water Alpantha
10.0 9.s
B A t l a s G-2330 Preservative
0.3
C C a r b o p o l ETD 2001* D NaOH (30% s o l u t i o n )
to pH 6 . 5 - 7
Manufacture: 1 . M i x A a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . 2 . Add B w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . 3 . S l o w l y add C and s t i r u n t i l a homogeneous s o l u t i o n i s o b t a i n e d 4. N e u t r a l i s e product by adding D . Comments : V i s c o s i t y : 42,120 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, s p i n d l e C , * C a r b o p o l ETD 2001 (Carbomer, INC1)-BF G o o d r i c h F o r m u l a t i o n F41-5-166
SOURCE: I C I A m e r i c a s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
6 rpm)
Beauty Aids
Oi
1-in-Water
Hydro-Gel
f o r S e n s i t i v e S k i n p a g e 2)
O i 1 -in - w a t e r .Moi s t u r i z i n g M i 1 k Innredients: M812 F i n s o l v TN* E u t a n c l G* Laurex CS* Lanolin alcohol Jojoba o i l
A Arlamol
B A r l a t o n e 2121 8utylene glycol Preservative Water
Wt% 2.0 4.0 2.0 1.5 1. o 0.5
~
2.0 3.0 q.s 78.8
C Keltrolx
0.2
D Ethanol
5.0
Manufacture: 1 . Disperse K e l t r o l i n c o l d water w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . 2 . H e a t o i l p h a s e t o 75C. 3 . Heat w a t e r p h a se t o 85C. 4 . S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase w h i l s t s t i r r i n g in t e n s i v e l y . 5 . H o m o g e n i s e t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y a t 75C f o r o n e m i n u t e . 6. Allow t o cool w h i l s t s t i r r i n g moderately. 7 . Add e t h a n o l b e l o w 40C. 8 . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Comments : V i s c o s i t y : 3 , 1 2 0 rnPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d L V T , s p i n d l e B, 6 r p m ) E n e r g y i n p u t i s r e l a t e d to f i n a l f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y . * F i n s o l v TN ( C 1 2 - C l 5 A l k y l B e n z o a t e , I N C 1 ) - F i n e t e x E u t a n o l G ( O c t y l d o d e c a n o l , INC1)-Henkel L a u r e x CS ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l , I N C 1 ) - A l b r i g h t & W i l s o n K e l t r o l ( X a n t h a n Gum, I N C I f - K e l c o SOURCE:
I C I S u r f a c t a n t s : F o r m u l a F41-5-16A
99
700
Cosmetic and Toiletty Formulations
__-_______---~ O i 1-in - W a t e r Mi 1k w i t h " N a t u r a l " L r e s e r v a t i - B wto/, 3.0 3.0 5.0 2.0 5.0 q.s.
Ingredients: A A r l a m o l HD Arlamol E Avocado o i l Wheat germ o i l * Sunflower o i 1 Anti -oxidant
B C a r b o p o l 5984* (3% s o l u t i o n ) R h o d o p o l SC* G1 y c e r o l A r l a t o n e 2121 Demi n e r a l i s e d w a t e r Propylene g l y c o l
C NaOH ( 3 0 % )
5.0 0.15 3.0 3.5 53.35 2.0 t o pH 6 - 6 . 5
D Ethanol
15.0
Ma1i u f a c t u r e : 1 . M i x t h e A r l a t o n e 2121 i n t h e h e a t e d w a t e r p h a s e a t 80C u n d e r m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g u n t i l a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n i s formed. 2 . D i s p e r s e t h e h y d r o c o l l o i d i n t h e h e a t e d aqueous phase a t 75C w i t h m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g . 3 . Add t h e h e a t e d o i l p h a s e t o t h e a q u e o u s p h a s e u n d e r i n t e n s i v e s t i r r ing. 4 . Homogense t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y a t 75C f o r one m i n u t e . 5 . Add p h a s e D a t +-50C a n d c o n t r o l p H . 6 . C o o l t o 35C w h i l s t s t i r r i n g m o d e r a t e l y . 7 . Add h e a t - s e n s i t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s w h i l s t s t i r r i n g m o d e r a t e l y . Comments: V i s c o s i t y : 1 2 , 4 0 0 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, s p i n d l e E , 6 r p m ) Energy i n p u t i s r e l a t e d t o f i n a l f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y . E t h a n o l i s i n c o r p o r a t e d as " n a t u r a l " p r e s e r v a t i v e . *Wheat g e r m o i 1 - S i n e r g a C a r b o p o l 5984 (Carbomer, INC1)-BF G o o d r i c h R h o d o p o l SC ( X a n t h a n Gum, I N C 1 ) - R h o n e P o u l e n c
SOURCE:
ICI
Surfactants:
F o r m u l a t i o n F41-5-11
Beauty Aids
01 1 - I
n-Water
M o l s - t g r i s i ng M i 1 k
LMLKuQ.. A Avlarol HD P a r a f f i n o i l perliquldua* Almond o i l Avocado o i l V i t a a i n E acetate* Anti-oridant
2.0 2.0 2.0 i . 0 q.5.
3.0 2.5 q.r. 70.0
8 Arlatone 2121 Propylene g l y c o l Prescrvattva Water C Carbopol 934,
(2% w/w
D NaOH (10%
in s o l u t i o n )
WW ;
101
7.5
d.i.)
t o pH 0 . 5
M8nutacturo: 1. M i x the Arlatone 2121 i n t h o hertcd water phase a t 8OC under moderate s t l r r i n y u n t i l I hmgenctous dlspersion i s foraed. 2. Dlsporso the hydrocollold iii tho he.tad aqueous phase a t 75C w l t h aoderate s t i r r i n g . 3. Add the heated o i l phase t o t h e rquctour phase under Intenelve stlrriny. 4. ~ n o g e n i s ethe mixture I n t e n s i v e l y a t 75C for one minute. 5 . Add phase 0 a t -GOC and c o n t r o l pH. 0 . Cool t o 35C w h i l s t s t i r r i n g aoderately. 7. Add heat-sensitive ingredients w h i l s t s t i r r i n g aoderately. Comaont : Viscosity; 14,070 nPa s ( B r u u k f i a l d LVT, spindle 0, 6 rpm) Enrryy input i s r r l a t e c i t o fin+: formulation v i s c o s i t y . * P a r a f f i n o i l p e r l i g u i d u r (Mineral O i l , IlUC1)-Werck VStamin E acetate (Tocopheryl Acetatc, INC1)-Roche Carbopol 934 (Carbonmr 934, INC1)-BF b o d r i c h
SOURCE: I C I Surfactant,.
Formulbtlon F41-6-0
102
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Powder Eyeshadow
wt%
I N C I Name/Trade N m Phase A : I t a l i a n Talc/Supra Talc B i s m u t h O x y c h l o r i d e / B i r o n LF-. z o o 0 Calcium S i l i c a t e / M i c r o c e l E N y l o n - l Z / O r g a s o l 2 0 0 2 UD N a t c o s Manganese V i o l e t 43001 U l t r a m a r i n e B l u e 43W1810 B l a c k I r o n O x i d e C33-5198 M i c a M-RP M a g n e s i um M y r i s t a t e M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben
9.70 20.00 1.oo 5.00 15.00 15.00 2.00 15.00 9.00 0.20 0.10
Phase 8 : O c t y l d o d e c y l S t e a r o y l Stearate/Ceraphyl 847 6.95 P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 D i is o s t e a r a t e / E m e r e s t 2 4 5 2 0.50 C e t y l Palmi t a t e 0.50 T o c o p h e r o l ( a n d ) A s c o r b y l P a l m i t a t e / O x y n e x LM 0.05 Procedure: Combine t h e p i g m e n t s and f i l l e r s w i t h t u m b l i n g a g i t a t i o n . P u l v e r i z e u s i n g a hammer m i l l t w i c e t h r o u g h a n 0 . 0 2 7 ' ' s c r e e n . Combine t h e o i l p h a s e . H e a t t o 70C u n t i l homogeneous. S p r a y o n t o batch whi l e agitating. Formula P4-25-1
Eye Shadow _.__ INCI NaW
T r a d e Name: Phase A : T a l c 141 Lithium Stearate K a o l i n 2457 C a l c i um S i 1 i c a t e / M i c r o c e l E Bismuth Oxychloride (and) Carmine/Bicrona B i s m u t h O x y c h l o r i d e / B i r o n 6-50 M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben ~
Carmine
Phase B : M i c a ( a n d ) I r o n O x i d e / C o l o r o n a P a s s i o n Orange
19.10 2.50 5.00 0.50 2.60 2.00 0.20 0.10 55.00
Phase C : M i n e r a l O i 1 ( a n d ) L a n o l i n A l c o h o l / A m e r c h o l L-101 11 . o o L a n o l in A 1 c o h o 1 / S u p e r H a r t o l a n 1.oo White Petrolatum 1.oo Procedure: Combine Phase A . P u l v e r i z e w i t h a hammer m i l l , p a s s i n g t w i c e t h r o u g h a 0 . 0 2 7 " h e r r i n g b o n e s c r e e n . Add P h a s e B w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n . Combine Phase C . H e a t t o 70C. S p r a y o n t o b a t c h w h i l e a g i t a t i n g b u l k . Pass e n t i r e b a t c h t h r o u g h a jump g a p . F o r m u l a P3-79-3 SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . ; S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
Beauty Aids
103
P r e s s e d Powder ia Lz: T a l c Supra A Nylon-12 Lecithin treated sericite L e c i t h i n t r e a t e d mica Amihope L L Zinc stearate Isopropyl lanolate Hydroxylated l a n o l i n Isopropyl isostearate E l d e w CL-307 Butyl stearate Germall I1 Methylparaben Propylparaben C o s m e t i c brown 3277 C o s m e t i c Brown 1 9 8 5 C o s m e t i c brown 1654 O&C r e d 3 0 l a k e F o r m u l a PP-EL01
Ra_w_Y3t-e-r
wt
QJO
53.54 10.00 10.00 10.00 5.00 3.00 2 , 70 1 .50 1.20 1 .oo 0.60 0.30 0.20 0.10 0.34 0.32 0.18 0.02
P r e s s e d Powder Raw M a t e r i a1 s : T a l c Supra A Nylon-12 Lecithin treeated s e r i c i t e L e c i t h i n t r e a t e d mica Amihope LL 21 n c s t e a r a t e Isopropyl lanolate Hydroxylated l a n o l i n Isopropyl isostearate E l d e w CL-301 Butyl stearate Germall I 1 Methylparaben Propylparaben C o s m e t i c brown 3277 C o s m e t i c brown 1985 Cosmetic brown 1654 O&C r e d 3 0 l a k e F o r m u l a PP-EL03 SOURCE: AJlnOmOtO U , S . A . ,
Wt% 52.49 9.80 9.80 9.80 4.90 2.94 2.65 1.47 1.18 2.95 0.59 0.29 0.20 0.10 0.33 0.31 0.18 0.02
Inc.:
E l d e w CL-301 A p p l i c a t i o n s
104
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
P r e s s e d Powder __
yt./,
Raw M a_ t e_ r i a~ l s_ : . T a l c Supra A Nylon-12 Lecithin treated sericite L e c i t h i n t r e a t e d mica Amihope LL Zinc stearate Isopropyl lanolate Hydroxylated l a n o l i n Isopropyl isostearate E l d e w CL-301 Butyl stearate Germall I 1 Methyl paraben Propyl paraben C o s m e t i c b r o w n 3277 C o s m e t i c brown 1985 C o s m e t i c brown 1654 O & C r e d 30 l a k e F o r m u l a PP-EL01
Raw M a t e r i a l s : A: Castor o i l C a n d e l i 1 1 a wax Carnauba war Ozokeri te Capryl i c / c a p r i c
53.54 10.00 10.00 10.00 5.00 3.00 2.70 1.50 1.20 I. o o 0.60 0.30 0.20 0.10 0.34 0.32 0.18 0.02
Wt%
60.0 4.8 2.0 4.0 15.0
triglyceride
7.4 2.2 3.0 1.6
B: M i c a Ye1 l o w i r o n o x i d e D & C Red # 7 A m i h o p e LL
Procedure: M i x ( A ) i n g r e d i e n t s a t 80C. M i x (6) i n g r e d i e n t s i n a t u r b o m i x e r u n t i l a f i n e & homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n i s o b t a i n e d . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m , t h e n p o u r i n t o m o l d s . F o r m u l a LP-203B
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A , ,
Inc.:
Amihope LL A p p l i c a t i o n s
Beauty Aids
105
. . e u ~ ~_n_g..C_1ay_.Eace__M_ask l l ~ F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and Advantages: T h i s p r o d u c t removes imbedded i m p u r i t i e s w h i c h smooths s k i n , c l e a n s p o r e s , b r i n g s a g l o w and removes d u l l i n g c e l l s f o r a f i n e r t e x t u r e so s k i n has a r a d i a n t g l o w . Wt%
Raw M a t e r i a1 s : Phase A : 1 0 2 M a g n a b r i t e HV Xanthan G u m Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d ) Glycerin A l o e Vera Gel P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Tween 60 M e t h y l Paraben
4.5 0.2 63.2 4.0
0.5 1.5 0.6 0.5
Phase 8 : E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF Cetylstearyl Alcohol K e s t e r War K-48 P r o p y l Paraben
5.0 0.5 2.0 0.5
Phase C. C e r a B e l l i n a ( P y - 3 Beeswax) G r e e n C h r o m i um 0 x 1 d e Titanium Dioxide
4.5 0.5 2.0
Phase D . Titanium Dioxide 6 7 0 B e n t o n i t e NFBC
4.0 6.0
Procedure: H e a t a n d m i x t i l l homogeneous, Phase A t o 8 O C . H e a t and m i x Phase B t o 8 O C . H e a t a n d m i x Phase C t i l l p i g m e n t s a r e d i s p e r s e d . M i x Phase B w i t h Phase C , a d d BC t o A a t 8OC u n d e r a g i t a t i o n . When e m u l s i f i e d , s p r j n k l e a m i x e d P h a s e D i n t o t h e AB&C p h a s e and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g t i l l t h o r o u g h l y d i s p e r s e d , a l l o w t o c o o l w h i l e m i x i n g . P o u r a t 55-6OC. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a a n d i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : Changes i n c l a y c o n c e n t r a t i o n w i l l r e d u c e o r i n c r e a s e d r y i n g t i m e on t h e s k i n , w h i c h a l s o c h a n g e s t h e r e s p e c t i v e p u r i f y i n g q u a l i t i e s toward t h e s k i n . M o i s t u r i z i n g agents and/or o t h e r a c t i v e s c a n be added t o enhance t h e p r o p e r t i e s o f t h i s p r o d u c t .
SOURCE:
K o s t e r Keunen I n c . :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
706
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
R e j u v e n a t i n g S k i n Gel (Aqueous)
I N C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A : A1 1 a n t o i n/Rona S o r b i t o l / H y s t a r CG
0.20 5.00 0.17 qs t o 100.00
Methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate Water,
demi n e r a l ized
Phase B : Carbomer/Carbopol 940 demineralized Water
1.20 38 8 0
Phase C : T r ome hami n e / T r i s Amino demi n e r a l ized Water
1.80 13.20
Phase D : L e c i t h i n , D i p a l m t o y 1 H y d r o x y p r o l i n e , PhenoxyWater T a l l O i 1 S t e r 1 , L i n o l e i c A c i d , Tocooherol. e t h a 01 Sodi um A s c o r b a t e , M e t h y l p a r a b e n , B u t y l p a r a b e n ' , E t h y l paraben, Propylparaben, Mannitol/ASC I I I / R o n a I
-
4.00
Procedure: D i s s o l v e Phase A . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l 940 i n t h e w a t e r o f Phase B and homogenize. D i s s o l v e t h e Tromethamine i n t h e w a t e r o f Phase C . Combine Phases B and C and homogenize. I n c o r p o r a t e Phase A w h i l e s t i r r i n g and homogenize. F i n a l l y , i n c o r p o r a t e Phase D and homogenize a g a i n . Notes: Ye1 l o w i sh-opaque g e l V i s c o s i t y : 63,000 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d R V T , SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,
Sp. C ,
Inc.: Formula 32-33/E
5 rpm) a t 24C
Beauty Aids
107
Rep1 e n i s h i ng M i 1 k C1 e a n s e r This cleanser i s formulated s p e c i f i c a l l y f o r f a c i a l skin. I t s g e n t l e c l e a n s i n g and f o a m i n g p r o p e r t i e s a r e a c h i e v e d w i t h o u t t h e use o f soap-based i n g r e d i e n t s and i t i s o i l f r e e . The Cremer01 HMG i m p r o v e s t h e r u b - i n o f t h e p r o d u c t and t h e t e x t u r e o f t h e foam and l e a v e s a smooth a f t e r f e e l . Added e m o l l i e n c e and m o i s t u r i z a t i o n i s c o n t r i b u t e d by t h e c a t i o n i c f i l m - f o r m i n g a b i l i t y o f Ucare Polymer JR-3OM w h i c h l e a v e s a l a s t i n g smoothness t o t h e s k i n d e s p i t e r i n s i n g . Glucamate DOE-I20 works s y n e r g i s t i c a l l y w i t h t h e o t h e r s u r f a c t a n t s t o b u i l d v i s c o s i t y , i m p r o v e foam and a c t as an a n t i - i r r i t a n t . D i r e c t i o n s f o r Use: Wet hands and f a c e . Work a s m a l l amount o f c l e a n s e r i n y o u r hands t o p r o d u c e a l a t h e r . Massage l a t h e r i n t o f a c e , and t h e n r i n s e . V i scosi t y : 2,500 cps pH: 6 . 8 - 7 . 2 Ingredients: D e i o n i z e d Water M i r a c a r e 2MCAS ( C o c o a m p h o d i a c e t a t e ( a n d ) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( a n d ) Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( a n d ) P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l ) Ucare Polvmer JR-30M (1% aaueous), (.P o l v_a u , aternium-10) Cocamide D E A Glucamate DOE-I20 (PEG-120 M e t h y l G l u c o s e D i o l e a t e ) Glycol D i stearate Glucam E-10 ( M e t h y l G l u c e t h - 1 0 ) Cremerol HMG ( H y d r o x y l a t e d M i 1 k G1 y c e r i d e s ) Preservative C i t r i c Acid
Wt% 35.0 35.0 20.0 2.0 3.0 1.5 3.0 0.5 q.s. q.s.
Procedure: I n a s e p a r a t e p r e m i x c o n t a i n e r , p r e p a r e a 1% s o l u t i o n o f Ucare Polymer JR-30M u s i n g t h e s t a n d a r d p r e p a r a t i o n method f o r t h i s raw m a t e r i a l . I n t h e main c o n t a i n e r , add t h e M i r a c a r e 2MCAS and w a t e r and m i x w i t h moderate t o s l o w a g i t a t i o n w i t h a sweep b l a d e . H e a t t o 70-8OC. When u n i f o r m , s l o w l y add t h e f o r m u l a w e i g h t o f t h e U c a r e s o l u t i o n t o t h e s u r f a c t a n t . When u n i f o r m , d i s s o l v e remaining ingredients i n t h e order l i s t e d , w a i t i n g f o r each t o d i s s o l v e b e f o r e a d d i n g t h e n e x t . Keep h e a t i n g w i t h a d e q u a t e a g i t a t i o n f o r 10-15 m i n u t e s . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and a d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d t o 6 . 8 - 7 . 2 .
SOURCE: A m e r c h o l :
Formulation T74-52-1
108
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Skin CleameI T h i s i s an opaque l o t i o n f o r m u l a w h i c h i s s o a p - f r e e . Foaming and c l e a n s i n g o f o i l y s k i n i s p r o v i d e d by t h e Avanel S-35 CG, w h i l e a blend o f e m o l l i e n t i n g r e d i e n t s s o f t e n dry areas. Part: A
Name: Dei o n i zed Water Methyl Cellulose/Methocel
Wt%
Ingredient/Trade
B
D e i o n i z e d Water
C
Sodium O c t o x y n o l - 2 Avanel S-35 CG Sodium Benzoate T e t r a s o d i um EDTA
A4M
10.00 0.10 32.00
Ethane S u l f o n a t e / 45.00 0.20 0.10 5.00 1.30 1 .30 0.50 0.50 1.25
D
Petrolatum Octoxynol-3 Mineral O i l Lanol i n Alcohol 01 e y l A l c o h o l Cocamide DEA/Mazamide 8 0
E
I m i d a z o l i d ?n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l Dei o n i zed Water
F
Fragrance C i t r i c A c i d o r T E A t o pH 6 . 0 - 7 . 0
1 15
0.25 0.25 Q.S. Q.S.
Procedure: Heat t h e p a r t A w a t e r t o >8OC. D i s p e r s e t h e m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t h e h o t w a t e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add t h e p a r t B w a t e r a s i c e o r as f r e e z i n g c o l d w a t e r . H o l d t h e b a t c h t e m p e r a t u r e <5C f o r 30-40 m i n u t e s t o g e t c o m p l e t e h y d r a t i o n o f t h e m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e . Add t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r and h e a t t h e b a t c h t o 65-70C. B l e n d t h e p a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s i d e v e s s e l , h e a t i n g t o 65-7OC. Add p a r t D t o t h e b a t c h w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n t o form t h e emulsion. M a i n t a i n t h i s a g i t a t i o n a s t h e batch i s c o o l e d t o 40-45C. B l e n d t h e p a r t E i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s i d e v e s s e l and add t o t h e b a t c h . Add t h e f r a g r a n c e and a d j u s t t h e pH t o 6.0-7.0.
SOURCE:
PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n K-105
Beauty Aids
109
S k i n C1 e a n s e r T h i s i s an opaque l o t i o n f o r m u l a w h i c h i s s o a p - f r e e . Foaming and c l e a n s i n g o f o i l y s k i n i s p r o v i d e d by Avanel 5-35 CG and Mafo C A B , w h i l e a b l e n d o f e m o l l i e n t i n g r e d i e n t s s o f t e n d r y areas.
_ P a_ rt: A
B
C
D
I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: D e i o n i z e d Water Hydroxypropyl Methyl c e l l u l ose/Methocel T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA T r i e t h a n o l ami ne
Wtt 40-1 00
Sodium O c t o x y n o l - 2 E t h a n e S u l f o n a t e / Avanel S-35 CG Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne/Mafo CAB Petrolatum L a n o l i n A1 coho1 PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate/Mazon 159 C e t e a r y l Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20/Macol Cocami de DEA/Mazami de 8 0 Preservative Fragrance C i t r i c A c i d or TEA t o pH 6 . 0 - 7 . 0
47.70 0.10 0.10 0.05 32.00 10.00
124
5.00 0.50 1 .30 2.00 1.25 Q.S. Q.S. Q.S.
Procedure: Disperse the hydroxypropyl methylcellulose i n t h e p a r t A w a t e r a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e by m i x i n g f o r > I 0 m i n u t e s . Add t h e t e t r a s o d i u m EDTA and t h e TEA t o r a i s e t h e pH above 8 . 5 and i n i t i a t e h y d r a t i o n o f t h e h y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e . M i x f o r a t l e a s t 20 m i n u t e s w h i l e h e a t i n g t h e b a t c h t o 60-65C. Add t h e p a r t 6 i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m a i n t a i n i n g t h e b a t c h a t 60-65C. B l e n d t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s i d e v e s s e l , h e a t i n g t o 60-65C. Add p a r t C t o t h e b a t c h w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n t o f o r m t h e e m u l s i o n . M a i n t a i n t h i s a g i t a t i o n as t h e b a t c h i s c o o l e d t o 40-45C. Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e , and a d j u s t t h e pH t o 6.0-7.0.
SOURCE:
PPG Industries, I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n K-106
110
Cosmetic and Toiletry formulations
Skin Gel(O/W) with ASC I11 Raw Materials: Wt$ A Almond oil (Sweet Almond (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis) Oil 7.00 Miglyol 812 neutral oil (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 4.00 OxGnex K liquid (Art. No. 108324) (PEG-8 (and)-Tocopherol (and) Ascorbyl Palmitate (and) Ascorbic Acid (and) Citric Acid) 0.50 Luvitol EHO (Cetearyl Octanoate) 4.50 Eutanol G (Octyldodecanol) 5.00 Cetiol V (Decyl Oleate) 5.00 4.00 B Sorbitol F liquid (Art. No. 102993) Tris(hydroxyrnethy1)-aminomethane (Art. No. 108386) 0.40 (Tromethamine) Preservatives q.s Water, demineralized ad 100.00 C Pemulen TR-1 (Acrylates/ClO-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) Water, demineralized
D ASC I11 (Art. No. 110154) (Lecithin (and) Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline (and) Beta-Sito-Sterol (and) Linoleic Acid (and) Tocopherol (and) Sodium Ascobate (and) Mannitol
0.40 29.60
4.00
Procedure: Disperse the Pemulen TR-1 in the water of phase C and let swell. Incorporate phase B into phase C while homogenizing. Dissolve phase A and add small amounts to phases B/C during homogenization. Add phase D and homogenize again. Note : pH23C=6.3 Viscosity 21,000 mPas (Brookfield RVT, spindle C, 5 rpm) Samples contain as preservatives: 0.05% Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Merck Art. No. 107427) 0.15% Methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Merck Art. No. 106757)
SOURCE: Rona-Merck: Formulation 14-37/G
@
23C
Beauty Aids
11 1
Skin Reiuvenatinq Emulsion The Glucate SS/Glucamate SSE-20-based emulsion has an enriched oil phase with moisturizers and emollients such as Cremerol HMG. This composition provides a long-lasting softness to the skin. Kytamer PC has superior humectant properties. Viscosity: 6,300 cps (20C, LVT, 3, 12 rpm) pH: 5.5 to 6.5 Inqredients: Phase A : Glucate SS (Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) Glucamate SSE-20 (PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) Promulgen D (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20) Glyceryl Stearate Cetearyl Octanoate Squalane Cremerol HMG (Hydroxylated Milk Glycerides)
Wt% 1.50 1.50 2.00 1.00 6.00 4.00 1.00
Phase B: Kytamer PC (Chitosan PCA) Deionized Water Glucam P-10 (PPG-10 Methyl Glucose Ether)
0.15
Phase C : Saccharide Isomerate Preservative
1.00
q.s. 1.00
9.S.
Procedures: Disperse the Kytamer PC with gentle heating (approx. 50C). Heat phase A and phase B to 75C and add phase B to phase A. Cool while stirring to 35C. Add other ingredients. Adjust pH. SOURCE: Amerchol: Formulation E952-101-2 Cleansins Emulsion for Towelettes (With
AHA
Ester)
Raw Materials: Imwitor 380 (Glyceryl Cocoate/Citrate/Lactate) Ampholyt JB 130K (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) Preservative Water up to
Wt%
1.00 1.00
q.s. 100.00
Preparation: All ingredients are mixed together at high speed with Ultra Turrax. SOURCE: Creanova Inc.: Formulation 1.4F
7 12
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
S k i n Smoother Gel Concept S t a t e m e n t : A s k i n s m o o t h i n g g e l c o n t a i n i n g R i t a HA C - I - C h e l p c o v e r w r i n k l e s and f i n e l i n e s .
and T e n s i n e t o Wt%
Ingredients: 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 ( C a r b o m e r ) 3 . SD A l c o h o l 40 4 . Methyl paraben 5 . D i s t 11 1 e d / D e i on1 z e d W a t e r 6 . D i a z o l id i n y l U r e a 7 . R i t a PEO-3 (PEG-23M) 8 . R i t a s i l 190 ( D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ) 9 . R i t a HA C-1-C ( S o d i u m H y a l u r o n a t e ) 10.NaOH 20% 1 1 . T e n s i n e (Wheat P r o t e i n ) 1 2 . F D & C B l u e # 1 B 1% 13.Fragrance
70.15 0.50 10.00 0.10 10.00 0.15 0.50 1 .oo 2.00 1.10 5.00 q.s. q.s.
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Disperse item 2 i n i t e m 1 . N e u t r a l i z e w i t h i t e m 10. Dissolve i t e m 4 i n i t e m 3 and add t o g e l . D i s s o l v e i t e m s 6 and 7 i n i t e m 5 , a d d i t e m s 8 a n d 9 a n d a d d t o g e l . Add i t e m s 1 1 - 1 3 a n d m i x u n t i 1 uniform. F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . No. 123-166
L i posome S e r u m Concept S t a t e m e n t : A h e a v y l o a d l i p o s o m e s e r u m c o n t a i n i n g R o v i some C , and R e f f e r m i n e f o r f a c i a f i rming a t t r i b u t e s .
Tensi ne,
Ingredients: 1. Distilled/Deionized W t e r 2 . Rovisome C (Magnesium A s c o r b y l Phosphate & L e c i t h i n ) 3 . T e n s i n e (Wheat P r o t e i n ) 4 . R a f f e r m i n e ( H y d r o l y z e d Soy F l o u r ) 5. G l v c e r i n e 6 . R i i a PEO-3 (PEG-23M) 7 . DMDM H y d a n t o i n
Wt% 63.75 20.00 5.00 3.00 5.00 3.00 0.25
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : D i s p e r s e i t e m 6 i n i t e m 1 . M i x u n t i 1 un f o r m . Add i t e m s 2 - 5 and i t e m 7 and m i x . F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . No. 123-558
SOURCE:
R.I.T.A. C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t on s
Beauty Aids
113
S p a r k l i n g Skin M o i s t u r i z i n g F l u i d w i t h Microcapsules T h i s i s a f l u i d c o n t a i n i n g a t t r a c t i v e m o i s t u r i z i n g beads i n a 1 i g h t , g r e a s e l e s s aqueous base w h i c h e x h i b i t s s p a r k 1 i ng c l a r i t y and smooth f e e l . I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: G1 y c e r i n H y d r o g e n a t e d S t a r c h H y d r o l y s a t e ( 7 0 % ) / H y s t a r CG Methyl paraben Part B: D e i o n i z e d Water Carbomer/Carbopol
I
i n Gelatin M crocapsules/LipoPearls
Properties: pH: 5 . 3 - 6 . 0 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) a t 25C Y i e l d V a l u e : 140-200 C l a r i t y ( % T ) : 90-94
2.50 2.50 0.10 83.35 0 25
ETD 2 0 5 0
P a r t C: D e i o n i z e d Water Sodium H y d r o x y m e t h y l G l y c i n a t e / S u t t o c i d e A PVP ( ~ 3 o j D i s o d i um EDTA Benzophenone-4 Part D: Mineral O i l
Wt%
10.00 0.30 0.10 0.05 0.05
0.80
1,500-3,000
Preparation Procedure: 1. P a r t A : Using a g i t a t i o n , d i s s o l v e methylparaben i n a m i x t u r e o f t h e g l y c e r i n and H y s t a r u s i n g s h e a r . 2 . P a r t B : I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , d i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l ETD 2 0 5 0 p o l y m e r i n t o t h e v o r t e x o f r a p i d l y a g i t a t i n g w a t e r . When d i s p e r s e d , r e d u c e a g i t a t i o n and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. 3 . Add P a r t A t o P a r t B ( C a r b o p o l d i s p e r s i o n ) . 4. I n a separate vessel, blend P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s . Mix u n t i l homogeneous. 5 . U s i n g p a d d l e - t y p e a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t C t o P a r t B . M i x t o produce a c l e a r f l u i d . 6 . U s i n g p a d d l e t y p e a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t D t o n e u t r a l i z e d f l u i d u n t i l microcapsules are well dispersed.
SOURCE: B , F .
Goodrich C o . : Foamulation
COO55
114
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
SuDer Moisturizinq G e l This clear gel provides moisture to the skin. The addition of Hypan SA lOOH in this formulation helps stabilize the viscosity of the product while adding to the clarity of the gel, eliminates tackiness and leaves the skin with an elegant feel. Lipo/DNS Completech MBAC-EA helps smooth out the skin and eliminate wrinkles in the area of the eye. Sequence : 1 1
Raw Material: Deionized Water Methylparaben
wtqi
21.75 0.25
2 2
Liponic EG-1 Hypan SA-100H
3
Carbopol ETD 2001 ( 2 % Aq. Disp'n.1
4 4
Deionized Water Triethanolamine, 99%
5
Lubragel MS
6 6
Deionized Water Unicide U-13
0.30
7
Hylacure, 1% Sol'n
5.00
8 8
Deionized Water DNS Completech MBAC-EA
8.50
5.00 0.10 30.00
1.00 0.60 25.00
1.00
1.50
Procedure: 1. Premix Sequence #1 with overhead mixer while heating to 80C until Methylparaben is solubilized. 2 . Premix Sequence # 2 and add to Sequence #1 at 80C on overhead mixer using medium/high agitation. 3. Add Sequence #3 to batch holding temperature at 80C. 4 . Premix Sequence # 4 and add to batch at 80C mixing with overhead mixer at medium speed until completely hydrated without (fish eyes) noticed (approximately 2 0 minutes). Cool to 70C. 5 . Add Sequence #5 without heating to batch held at 70C with medium speed on overhead mixer. Reduce temperature to 3 5 C . 6. At 35C add premixed Sequence # 6 to batch at low speed while cooling to 25C. 7 . At 25C add Sequence # 7 to batch at low speed. 8. Premix Sequence # 8 until into solution and add to batch while mixing at low speed with sweep blade. SOURCE: Lip0 Chemicals, Inc.: Formulation No. 867
Beauty Aids
T-i m i r on-.SLl_k_Color
Cor r ec t oy
w t%
INCI Name/Trade Name: Phase A * C e t e a r e t h - 6 ( a n d ) S t e a r y l A l c o h o l / C r e m o p h o r A6 Ceteareth-25/Cremophor A25 G l y c e r y l Monostearate, Pure C e t e a r y l O c t a n o a t e / L u v i t o l EHO M i n e r a l 01 1 L i g h t 9 0 S U S / B l a n d o l Cetyl Alcohol D i m e t h i c o n e / l OOcs. /Dow C o r n 1 n g 2 0 0 F1 u i d P r o p y l Paraben Phase 6 : Dei o n i z e d Water G1 y c e r i n e USP M e t h y l Paraben T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( a n d ) M i c a / T i m i r o n S i l k Green Phase C : Fragrance Phase D : I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l Deionized Water
115
1 .oo
1 .oo 2.50 7.00 3.00 1.50 0.10 0.10
73.05 3.00 0.20 5.00
0.25 0.30 2.00
115
Procedure: H e a t Phase A a n d Phase 6 s e p a r a t e l y t o 70-75C w i t h s t i r r i n g . When homogeneous, t h e w a t e r p h a s e i s a d d e d t o t h e o i l p h a s e a t 70-75C w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a g i t a t i o n . A f t e r m a i n t a i n i n g t e m p e r a t u r e f o r 1 5 m i n u t e s , c o o l t o 55C. H o m o g e n i z e . C o n t i n u e t o c o o l t o 45C w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add Phase C a n d c o m b i n e d Phase D . C o o l t o 30C. Notes : The T i m i r o n S i l k G r e e n c o l o r c o r r e c t o r i s u s e d u n d e r makeup t o h i d e r e d b l o t c h y a r e a s on t h e f a c e . T i m i r o n S i l k G o l d w i l l mask b l u i s h d i s c o l o r a t i o n s , a n d c o m b i n e d w i t h T i m i r o n S i l k Red, p r o v i d e a b r i g h t e r appearance t o t h e complexion.
SOURCE:
Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,
Inc.:
F o r m u l a EM3-45-1
7 16
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Under Eye Gel Concept Statement: A skin smoothing gel containing Rita HA C-1-C and Tensine to help cover wrinkles and fine lines. Insredients: 1. Distilled/Deionized Water 2. Acritamer'940 (Carbomer) 3. SD Alcohol 40 4. Methylparaben 5. Distilled/Deionized Water 6. Diazolidinyl Urea 7. Ritasil 190 (Dimethicone Copolyol) 8. Rita HA C-1-C (Sodium Hyaluronate) 9. NaOH 20% 10.Tensine (Wheat Protein)
Wt%
70.15 0.50 10.00
0.10 10.00 0 .1 5
1.00 2.00
1.10 5.00
Compounding Procedure: Disperse item 2 in item 1. Neutralize with item 9. Dissolve item 4 in item 3 and add to gel. Dissolve item 6 in item 5, add items 7 and 8 and add to gel. Add item 10 and mix until uniform. Formulation Ref. No. 123-7A S k i n Smoother Gel
Concept Statement: A skin smoothing gel containing Rita HA C-1-C and Tensine to help cover wrinkles and fine lines. Inaredients1 Distilled/Deionized Water Acritamer 940 (Carbomer) SD Alcohol 40 Methylparaben Distilled/Deionized Water Diazolidinyl Urea Ritasil 190 (Dimethicone Copolyol) Rita HA C-1-C (Sodium Hyaluronate) NaOH 20% 10.Tensine (Wheat Protein) ll.FD&C Blue # 1 @ 1% 12.Fragrance
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
Wt$
70.15 0.50 10.00 0.10 10.00 0.15 1.00 2.00
1.10 5.00 q.s. q.s.
Compounding Procedure: Disperse item 2 in item 1. Neutralize with item 9. Dissolve item 4 in item 3 and add to gel. Dissolve item 6 in item 5, add items 7 and 8 and add to gel. Add items 10, 11 and 12 and mix until uniform. Formulation Ref. 123-78 SOURCE:
R.I.T.A. Corp.: Suggested Formulations
Beauty Aids
Under-eye and Spot Conc-eaj
117
e r _Ma_keup
T h i s u n d e r e y e a n d s p o t c o n c e a l e r makeup c a n b e a p p l i e d e i t h e r f r o m a n a u t o m a t i c u n i t c o n t a i n i n g a b r u s h f o r a p p l i c a t i o n or f r o m a tube w i t h a narrow opening The u r e t h a n e p o l y m e r c o n t r i b u t e s t o the long l a s t i n g f i l m forming properties while providing i m p r o v e d a d h e s i o n t o t h e s p o t or a r e a b e i n g c o v e r e d . I t i s a l s o a good s u b s t i t u t e f o r t h e p i g m e n t s u s p e n d i n g c a p a b i l i t i e s o f c o l l o i d a l c l a y , so common t o t h e s e t y p e s o f p r o d u c t s
hci-cedie n t f Trade-.-[\lam-e L Part A: 1 , Deionized Water 2 . M e t h y l p a r a b e n NF 3 . H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l C e l l u l o s e / M e t h o c e l 40-202 4 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 5 . D L - P a n t h e n o l USP 6 . U r e t h a n e P o l y m e r / A v a l u r e UR 445 P o l y m e r 7 . G l y c e r e t h - 2 6 / P r o t a c h e m GL-26 P a r t 8: 8 . M i c a / S e r i c i t e GMS-4C
Part C: 1 6 . S t e a r i c A c i d / E m e r s o l 132 1 7 . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e / P r o t a c h e m GMS-450 1 8 . I s o p r o p y l Palmitate/Protachem IPP 1 9 . O c t y l d o d e c y l N e o - P e n t a n o a t e / E l f a c 1205 20.0ctyldodecanol/Eutanol G 21 . G r a p e Seed O i l / L i p o v o l G 22.Jojoba Oil/Lipovol J 23.Propylparaben P a r t D: 2 4 . C y c l o m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 245 F l u i d 25.Tocopheryl Acetate/Vitamin E Acetate 26.Retinyl Palrnitate/Vitamin A Palmitate 2 7 . A l o e E x t r a c t / A c t i p h y t e o f A l o e Vera 28.Germaben I 1 P r e s e r v a t i v e Appearance:
pH: 7 . 5 - 8 . 0 V i s c o s i t y c p a t 25C:
4.50
5.00
9 . K a o l i n 2457 1 0 . T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 3 3 2 8 USP A n a t a s e t y p e 1 1 . I r o n O x i d e s / C 3 3 - 7 7 1 5 C o s m e t i c Brown 1 2 . I r o n O x i d e s / C 3 3 - 7 7 3 8 Cosmet c R u s s e t 1 3 . I r o n O x i d e s / C 3 3 - 7 7 7 3 Cosmet c Y e l l o w 1 4 . I r o n O x i d e s / C 3 3 - 7 7 7 5 Cosmet c Red 1 5 . I r o n O x i d e s / C 3 3 - 7 7 3 4 Cosmet c 81 a c k
P r o p e r t i es : C o l o r , Odor,
N t% 58.95 0.10 0.20 1 .oo 0.30 2.50
0.50 3.20 0.50 0.10 0.40 0.10
0.05 3.00 3.00 2.00 1 .oo 2.00
0.50 3.00 0.10 7.00 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.50
Pigmented, moderately t h i c k cream w i t h s l ig h t wax-1 i k e o d o r
5,000-6,000
SOURCE: BF G o o d r i c h S p e c i a l t y C h e m i c a l s :
F o r m u l a t i o n A0003(Cont)
118
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Undereve and Spot Concealer MakeuD (Continued] Preparation Procedure: Part A: 1. Add the deionized water to a suitable kettle and then add the methylparaben. 2 . Heat the water to 35C to dissolve the methylparaben and then add the methocel. 3 . Continue mixing until the methocel is dispersed and no lumps appear. 4. Add the triethanolamine and mix until the solution is clear. Add the Panthenol and mix until dissolved. 5 . Add the Avalure UR 445 polymer and mix until it is dispersed and a colloidal white solution occurs. 6. Add the Glycereth-26 and heat to 75C. Part B: I. Mix all of the powders together and mill if necessary until the blend is uniform and no streaks or particles of pigment are present. 0 . Add this powder blend to Part A and mix until ready to combine with Part C. Part C: 9. Mix all of the ingredients of Part C in a suitable vessel and heat to 15C. 10.After all of the ingredients are completely melted, add Part C to Parts A & B and continue mixing until the emulsion forms. Part D: 11.Begin cooling the combined batch to IOC and add the cyclomethicone. Mix well to insure that the cyclomethicone is brought into the emulsion and is uniformly dispersed. Continue cooling and mixing. l2.Add vitamins at 45C and mix well. 13.Add aloe and mix well. 14.Add the Germaben I1 and continue cooling to room temperature.
SOURCE: BF Goodrich Specialty Chemicals: Formulation A0003
Beauty Aids
119
__---_
W a t e r - i n - O i 1 M i 1k --__ Inaredi ents: A : A r l a c e l 582 Arlatone T A r l a m o l HD Paraffin o i l Isopropyl myri s t a t e 8 : A t l a s G-2330 P r o p y l ene g l y c o l MgS04-7H20 Preservatives Water C : Perfume Manufacture: 1 . Heat A and B t o 65C s e p a r a t e l y . 2 . Add B t o A w h i l s t s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y , 3 . Homogenise. 4 . Cool t o 35C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s h o m o g e n i s a t i o n . 5 . Add p e r f u m e . Comments: V i s c o s i t y : 22,000 mPas ( B r o o k f i e l d L V T , s p i n d l e E , Formul a t i on F44-12-1 O i l - i n Water T r o p__ ic M i
Wt9: 4.0 1.o 8.0 5.5 7.0 1.25 1.25 0.7 9 . S .
71 . 3 9.s.
6 rpm)
Innredi ents: . W_ t% A r l a t o n e 983 I .1 B r i j 76 1.o A r l a m o l HD 2.0 A r l a m o l S7 3.0 B : A t l a s G-2330 1.25 Propylene g l y c o l 1 .25 Preservatives 9,s. C a r b o p o l 934 ( a ) 0.3 Demi n e r a l i sed w a t e r 90.1 C : Perfume q.s. ( a ) N e u t r a l i s e t h e m i x t u r e w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n t o pH 6 . 5 Manufacture: 1 . Heat A and B s e p a r a t e l y t o 7 0 C . 2 . Add A t o B w h i l e s t i r r i n g . 3 . Homogeni s e . 4 . N e u t r a l i s e w i t h a 30% NaOH s o l u t i o n t o pH 6 . 5 . 5 . Cool t o 35C w h i l s t s t i r r i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y . 6 . Add C . Comments: V i s c o s i t y : 34,000 mPas ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, s p i n d l e F, 6 rpm) T h i s v e r y l i g h t e m u l s i o n i s l o w i n o i l phase and e m u l s i f i e r c o n t e n t and g i v e s a s t r o n g c o o l i n g e f f e c t on t h e s k i n . F o r m u l a t i o n F44-12-5
A:
SOURCE:
ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
120
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W a t e r - i n - O i 1 - i n-W-r Face M o i s t u r i s ( 2 - S t e p Production)
WtS/a
Inqredients: P r i m a r y E m u l s i o n W1/0: A A r l a c e l 1690 A t l a s SCS 2 0 5 4 A r l a m o l HD A r l a m o l M812
3.3 3.0 15.0 14.0
B Water Preservative
64.7 q.s.
S e c o n d a r y Emu1 s i o n W1 / O / W 2 A P r i m a r y E m u l s i o n W1/0
(50/50) :
50.0 5.0 q.s. 44.6 0.4
B A r l a t o n e 2121 Preservative Water Keltrol*
Manufacture: P r i m a r y E m u l s i o n W1/0: 1 . S l o w l y a d d B t o A w h i l s t s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y ( a t room t e m p e r ature). 2 . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y f o r 5 m i n u t e s . S e c o n d a r y E m u l s i o n Wl/O/W2: 1 . Heat B ( w i t h o u t t h e K e l t r o l ) t o 6 0 C . 2. Disperse t h e K e l t r o l i n B w h i l s t s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y (keep t h e temperature a t 60C). 3 . S l o w l y add A t o B w h i l s t s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . 4 . A l l o w t o c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w h i l s t s t i r r i n g g e n t l y . Comments : V i s c o s i t y : 1 5 . 9 0 0 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d L V T , * K e l t r o l ( X a n t h a n Gum, I N C 1 ) - K e l c o
s p i n d l e D,
SOURCE: I C I S u r f a c t a n t s : F o r m u l a t i o n F 4 1 - 5 - 1 7
6 rpm)
Beauty Aids
121
W a t e r p r o o f S p e c i a l E f f e c t s Mascara IN
C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A : C9-11 I s o p a r a f f i n / S o l t r o l 1 0 0 P o l y e t h y l e n e 6A Candel i 11 a Wax H y d r o x y l a t e d L a n o l i n/OH1 an
Wt% 3 0 95 11 . o o 4.50 0.25 I
Phase 6 : Pentaerythri t y l Rosinate/Pentalyn C C9-11 I s o p a r a f f i n / S o l t r o l 1 0 0
2.00 5.00
Phase C : M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben
0.20 0.10
Phase D : Zinc Stearate
1.oo
Phase E : P e t r o l e u m D i s t i l l a t e s ( a n d ) Quaternium-18 H e c t o r i t e ( a n d ) P r o p y l e n e C a r b o n a t e / B e n t o n e Gel SS71
35.00
Phase F : P e a r l P i gment/Rona
10.00
Procedure: P r e p a r e Phase B i n advance; combine i n a c l o s e d v e s s e l . Heat t o 65-70C w i t h c o n s t a n t L i g h t n i n ' m i x e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c l e a r . Combine Phase A i n a c l o s e d v e s s e l . Heat t o 90-95C w i t h L i g h t n i n ' m i x e r a g i t a t i o n . When c l e a r , add t o r e m a i n i n g phases i n o r d e r , i n s u r i n g t h a t each i s f u l l y d i s p e r s e d b e f o r e p r o c e e d i n g . Cool t o 30C w i t h sidesweep a g i t a t i o n . A t 55C, c h e c k f o r s o l v e n t l o s s and a d j u s t i f n e c e s s a r y .
Note: P e a r l Pigment C o m b i n a t i o n s : A: D i c h r o n a BG 6 : C o l o r o n a Dark B l u e C : C o l o r o n a Magenta D : C o l o r o n a M a j e s t i c Green E: C o l o r o n a Dark B l u e
SOURCE: Rona/EM Industries, I n c , : F o r m u l a AN251
Section V Creams
122
Creams
123
A11 _Purpose _Cream _ _: Raw M a__ t e r_ i a-. ls A : M i n e r a l o i l #70 P a r a f f i n (mp 42-44C) Cetyl alcohol Ceresi n Tocopheryl acetate A1 1a n t o i n Sorbitan stearate Pol ysorbate-20 B:
Wt.% 21 . 6 8.0 5.0 10.0 0.2 0.2 2.0 3.0
Aiidew N-50 Propylene g l y c o l Preservatives Water
3.0 2.0 9.s. balance
Procedure: Heat ( A ) and ( B ) r e s p e c t i v e l y t o 80-85C and d i s s o l v e a l l i n g r e d i e n t s Add ( B y r a d u a l l y t o ( A ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t r r i n g . pH: 5 . 4 Formula N o . S Y - 1 9 - 1 _ Col-d .
Cream
Raw M a t e r i a1 s : A: Mineral o i l P a r a f f in I PP Cetyl alcohol Lanol i n hydrogenated Ceresi n Sorbitan stearate Pol y s o r b a t e - 8 0
wtg
~
20.0 9.0 3.0 1. o 2.0 10.0 2.7 2.3
6 : Ajidew N-50
3.0 q.s. balance
P r e s e r v a t i ves Water
Procedure: Heat ( A ) and ( B ) r e s p e c t i v e l y t o 80-85C and d i s s o l v e a l l i n g r e d i e n t s . Add (5) g r a d u a l l y t o ( A ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . F o r m u l a No. SC-74
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A . ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
124
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
_ A n_ ti -Cell
u l i t e Cream
F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : A c t i v e s s p e c i f i c a l l y d e v e l o p e d t o r e d u c e t h e s i g n s and q u a n t i t y o f c e l l u l i t e a r e i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h i s q u i c k pene t r a t i n g , n o n - g r e a s y cream. The use o f H e x a n e d i o l Behenyl Beeswax a l l o w s f o r a s t a b l e e m u l s i o n u s i n g a h i g h c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f l o w v i s c o s i t y o i l s . Orange Wax i n t h i s f o r m u l a i s a l s o an a c t i v e due t o s i m i l a r c h e m i s t r y . The c l a i m s f o r C e n t e r c h e m ' s a n t i - c e l l u l i t e p r o d u c t s a r e based on g r o u p s o f c h e m i c a l s w h i c h a r e a l s o f o u n d i n Orange Wax, f o r example; S t e r o i d s , F l a v o n o n e s , F l a v o n o l s and C i nnamates. Raw M a t e r i a l s : Phase A: Hexanedi o l Behenyl Beeswax Glycol Stearate G1 y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e Orange Wax I s o p r o p y l Palmi t a t e S i l i c o n e O i l 556 E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF Ceteareth-20 Eucalyptus O i 1 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Phase 8 : Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) Carbopol 940 G1 y c e r i n Pronalan A n t i c e l l u l i t e Ivy Extract Seaweed E x t r a c t T r i e t h a n o l ami ne A l o e Vera G e l Germaben I 1
NtV 3.0 4.0 3.0 4.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 1.5 0.5 2.5 50.1 0.2 3.0 10.0 5.0 5.0 0.2 1
.o
1.
o
Procedure: Heat Phase A t o 75 t o 8OC. Heat and m i x Phase B t o 75C. E m u l s i f y b y a d d i n g Phase A t o Phase 8 . Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and m i x w h i l e c o o l i n g . Pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r s a t 40C. A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : T h e r e i s room f o r c h a n g i n g t h i s p r o d u c t by t h e use o f o t h e r a c t i v e s w h i c h p r o d u c e s i m i l a r c l a i m s . The use o f o t h e r p l a n t o i l s w i l l n o t d r a m a t i c a l l y a l t e r t h e f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t . Worth m e n t i o n i n g i s t h e a b i l i t y o f Orange Wax t o mask t h e aroma o f t h e eucalyptus o i l producing a product o f low fragrance.
SOURCE:
K o s t e r Keunen I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Creams
125
Antiwrinkle Nisht Cream Concept Statement: A non-greasy night cream containing Pationic SBL to moisturize and smooth skin, and Tensine and Reductine to reinforce skin firmness. Inuredients: 1. Distilled/Deionized Water 2. Propylene Glycol 3. Mineral Oil 4. Lanolin X-Tra Deo 5 . Petrolatum 6. Butylated Hydroxyanisole 7. Pationic SBL (Sodium Behenoyl Lactylate) 8. Ritacetyl Alcohol 50/50 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 9. Rita SA (Stearyl Alcohol) 10.Phenonip 11.Fragrance 12.Tensine (Wheat Protein) 13.Reductine (Oat Protein)
Wtg
58.00 5 .OO 12.00 2.00 5.00 0.10 2.00 3.50 1.50 0.50 l2.s
5.00 5.00
Compounding Procedure: Mix items 1 and 2 and heat to 80C. Combine items 3 to 9 and heat to 80C. Add oil phase to water phase and homogenize. Cool to 35C and add items 10 to 13. Formulation Ref. No. 122-818 Cleansinq Cream Concept Statement: A cleansing cream with Pationic SCL to provide skin moisture and smoothness, and a pleasant feel. Inaredients: 1. Pationic SCL (Sodium Cocoyl Lactylate) 2. Rita Cetearyl Alcohol 50/50 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 3 . Rita GMS (Glyceryl Stearate)
4. Mineral Oil 5. Ritachol (Mineral Oil and Lanolin Alcohol) 6. Distilled/Deionized Water 7. Glycerine 8. DMDM Hydantoin
Wtg
0.50 1.60 4.00
20.00 4.00 67.40
5.00 0.20
Compounding Procedure: Combine items 1-5 and heat to 80C. Combine items 6 and 7 and heat to 80C. Add oil phase to water phase. Cool to 35C and add item 8. Formulation Ref. No. 120-205A SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp.: Suggested Formulations
126
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulabons
_C_o- -l -d C r e a m (O[.W]
I =red~ gn1-C:
Wt%
. .
P o l y s y n l ane M i n e r a l 011 P a r a f f i n Wax I .P.M. Beeswax Lanol i n Propylene Glycol P o t a s s i um H y d r o x i d e A r l a c e l 40 P . O . E Sorb1 t o 1 Beeswax Stearic Acid Perfume & P r e s e r v a t i v e s Water
32 0 4.0 4.0 8.0 3.0 8.0 4.0 0.3 2.5 1.o 1.5 9. s 100.0 I
.
ad.
Hand
Cream
w_t% 4.0
Lnsre.dientsL G l y c e r y l Monostearate ( S . E . ) S t e a r i c A c i d TP Cetyl Alcohol Lanol i n Polysynlane P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Triethanolamine Preservatives Water & P e r f u m e
ad.
4.0 2.0 2.0 4.0 3.0 1. o 0.2 100.0
_I _n g y e & i ~ n . t t :
Wtsl,
Cetyl Alcohol Stearyl Alcohol Sod1 um L a u r y l S u l f a t e Polysynlane Sesame O i l Glycerine Preservative Water & P e r f u m e
3.5 7.0
SOURCE:
Polyester C o r p . :
2.0 8.5 5.0 5.0 0.2 ad. 100.0
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams
127
Cream F o r m u l a SK-8b i s a g l o s s y c r e a m w i t h m e d i u m - h i g h v i s c o s i t y a n d i s made w i t h a h i g h c o n t e n t o f m i n e r a l o i l a n d s t e a r y l a1 c o h o 1 V i s c o s i t y c o n t r o l is e x c e l 1 e n t , a n d t h i s emol 1 i e n t f o r m u l a t i o n c o u l d make a c o l d c r e a m , m o i s t u r i z e r , o r s k i n c l e a n s e r . The f o r m u l a t i o n i s t h e r m a l l y s t a b l e .
.
In q r e d i e n t s : A Light mineral o i l Stearyl alcohol B r i j 721 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 B r i j 72 S t e a r e t h - 2 B Water,
wto/, 15.0 5.0 2.5 2.5
de o n i zed
74.8
C P r e s e r v a t ve
q.s.
D Fragrance
0.2
Preparation: H e a t ( A ) t o 70C a n d ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) a n d a g i t a t e w i t h p r o p e l l e r . Add ( C ) b e l o w 50C a n d ( D ) a t 35C. Add w a t e r t o r e p l a c e t h a t l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. F o r m u l a SK-8b O i 1 - i n-Water
H i qh M i n e r a l O i 1 Cream
T h i s f o r m u l a i s a v e r y v i s c o u s , g l o s s y cream w i t h e x c e l l e n t p h a s e s t a b i l i t y f o r a t l e a s t e i g h t weeks a t 5C, 40C, 50C, a n d room t e m p e r a t u r e , a n d a t l e a s t f i v e f r e e z e - t h a w c y c l e s . Inqredients: A- L i g h t m i n e r a B r i j 721 B r i j 72
. W_ t% 70.0 3.7 3.3
oi1
22.7 0.1
B Water, d e i o n zed Carbomer 9 3 4 C Sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n
10% a q u e o u s
0.1
D Preservative
q.s.
E Fragrance
0.1
Preparation: H e a t ( A ) t o 70C a n d ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( A ) t o ( 5 ) s l o w l y w i t h m o d e r a t e a n c h o r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) a b o u t 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C a n d r e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n . F o r m u l a SK-10
SOURCE: ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
728
Cosmetic and Toiletry Fornlulations
Cream, O/W, with MPC-Milk PeDtide Complex Wt8;
Raw Materials: a) Emulgade SE Lanette 0 Myritol 318 Cetiol OE Cetiol J 600 Phenonip
8.50 3.00 4.00 2.00 3.00 0.30 63.90 0.30 5.00
b) Water, distilled Phenonip Karion F liquid c) Water, distilled Na3-Citrate x 2H20 MPC-Milk Peptide Complex
9.38 0.12 0.50
Manufacture: a) Melt and bring to approx. 70C. b) Bring to approx. 70C and add to a). Continue stirring until cream has cooled to approx. 30C. c ) Dissolve at room temperature and add to ab) with stirring. Perfume, homogenize. Cream, O/W, with Protectan Raw Materials: a) Cutina MD Cutina CP Eumulgin B1 Eumulgin B2 Cetiol B Phenonip
Wt$ 4.00 4.00 1.00 1.00 5.00 0.30
b) Water, distilled Phenonip Carbopol 940 Triethanolamine Glycerin
70.40 0.30 0.50 0.50 3.00
c) Protectan
10.00
Manufacture: a) Melt and bring to approx. 70C. b) Bring to approx. 70C and stir into a). Continue stirring until cooled to approx. 30C. c ) Stir in. Perfume, homogenize. SOURCE: Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH: Formulas
Creams
Raw M a t e r-i a l s : A : A r l a m o l HD A r l a m o l M 812 Stearyl alcohol A r l a c e l 60 Phenoni p
Wto/, 10.00 5.00 5.00 2.00 0.30
B : Water, d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p G - 2330 Keltrol A r l a t o n e 2121
60.30 0.30 1 .50 0.10 5.50
Glycoderm ( P )
10.00
C:
129
Manufacture: A : M e l t and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C. B . B r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C and add t o A w i t h s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C. C: S t i r i n . Perfume, homogenize C_ream_QfW R a w Mate r ia 1s.: A : Eumulgin 2 8 6 C e t i o l J 600 Phenoni p
f o r Daycare o f O i l y S k i n Wt% 3.00 5.00 0.30
B: Water, d i s t i l l e d Carbopol 934
60.00
Water, d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p T r i e t h a n o l am1 ne
18.40 0.30 1.50
C:
0 : Thiosome ( P )
1.50
10.00
Manufacture: D i s p e r s e b ) w i t h r a p i d s t i r r i n g a t room t e m p e r a t u r e u n t i l f r e e f r o m lumps. Heat t o a p p r o x . 70C and add t o a ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C; add c ) and d ) . Perfume, homogenize.
SOURCE: Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i u m D r . K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: Suggested Formulations
130
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Cream,
Ty0.e OLW,
w i t h Phvtodermin
Raw M a t e r i a l s : a) Emulgade 1000 N I N o v a t a A0 Lanette 0 C e t i o l OE C e t i o l J 600 Phenoni p
Wt% 8.00 2.00 2.00
b ) Water, d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p G1 y c e r i n
62.40 0.30
8.00 7.00 0.30
5.00 5.00
c ) Phytodermi n Manufacture: a ) M e l t and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C. b ) B r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C and add t o a ) w i t h s t i r r i n g C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C. c) S t i r in. Perfume, homogenize. Cream,
TyDe W/O.
R.3E- M a t E r i a ! s ; a ) A r l a c e l 1689 Paraffinum subliquidurn A r l a m o l HD M i g l y o l 812 Isopropyl myri s t a t e Phenoni p
w i t h Phytodermin Wt% 3.50 8.00 6.00 2.00 2.00 0.30
b ) Water, d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p G1 y c e r in Magnesium s u l f a t e
62 9 0 0.30 4.00 0.50
c ) Phytodermin
10.00
d) A e r o s i l R 972
I
0.50
Manufacture: Add b ) t o a ) w i t h s t i r r i n g a t room t e m p e r a t u r e (25-3OC). Add c ) and d) t o a b ) . Perfume, r o l l .
SOURCE: Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i u m D r . K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: Formulae
Creams
131
Emollient Cream
Glucate SS/Glucamate SSE-20 is used as the basic nonionic emulsifier system. Glucam E-10 is added for its humectance in this excellent white cream base formula. Viscosity: 100,000 to 120,000 cps pH: 5 . 5 to 6.5 Inqredients: Oil Phase: Glucate SS (Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) Glucamate SSE-20 (PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) Squalane Glyceryl Stearate Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate Cera Alba Water Phase: Glucam E-10 (Methyl Gluceth-10) Deionized Water Preservative
wtg
1.0 2.0 7.0 1.5
8.0 3.0
1.5 q.s.
Procedures: Heat both phases to 85C and add the water phase to the oil phase. Cool while stirring to 35C. Add other ingredients. Adjust pH. Note: Homogenization is recommended. SOURCE: Amerchol: Formulation E952-093-6 O/W Basic Cream with AHA-Esters
Raw Materials: A) Miglyol 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Softisan 378 (Caprylic/Capric/Stearic Triglyceride) Imwitor 375 (Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/ Oleate) Imwitor 928 (Glyceryl Cocoate) Imwitor 370 (Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) Antioxidant B) Glycerin Preservative Water
Wt%
16.00 5.00
5.00 3.00 7.00 q.s.
5.00 up to
C) Fragrance
q.s. 100.00
q.s.
Preparation: (A) is heated up to 70 degrees C . (B) is brought to the same temperature and emulsified into (A). The cream is cooled while stirring, and at about 30 degrees C. the fragrance is added. SOURCE: Creanova Inc.: Formulation l.lR(1)
132
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
_ Face .
Cream
__ I ng r ed ien t s .:
Wt%
Phase A : H20, D e i o n i z e d C a r b o p o l 934 Propylene Glycol
79.30 0.20 2.00
Phase 5: Hest IS-2-0 ( I s o s t e a r e t h - 2 Octanoate) P r o d u c t S E - 1 0 0 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e & PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ) Hetan SS ( S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e ) Lanol i n Hest CSO ( C e t e a r y l O c t a n o a t e ) Hetoxol J (Cetearyl Alcohol & Ceteareth-20) Hest L-2-0 ( L a u r e t h - 2 O c t a n o a t e )
5.00 4.00 2.50 1 .60 3.00 0.60 0.30
Phase C : Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % S o l u t i o n )
0.50
Phase D : Germaben I I E
1.oo
Specifications: pH: 6 . 5 0 V i s c . # 4 / 1 2 : 2 6 , 0 0 0 cps Procedure: 1 . I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e , d i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l 934 i n t o H20 using a l i g h t n i n ' type mixer. 2 . When c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d and f r e e o f lumps, add p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l and h e a t t o 75C w h i l e m i x i n g . 3 . I n a s e p a r a t e k e t t l e , combine Phase B and h e a t t o 75C w h i l e m i x i ng. 4. A t 75C, add Phase B t o Phase A . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 5 . Add Phase C . M i x w e l l . 6 . Cool t o b e l o w 40C and add Phase D . SOURCE: H e t e r e n e . I n c . :
Formulation
HC 94-148
Creams
133
Hiah Gloss Cream, T w e O/W, with LiDosomes
Raw Materials: A) Dynacerin 660 (Oleyl Erucate) Imwitor 370 (Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) Imwitor 375 (Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/ Oleate) Imwitor 928 (Glyceryl Cocoate) Miglyol 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Softisan 378 (Caprylic/Capric/Stearic Triglyceride) Softisan 601 (Glyceryl Cocoate (and) Hydrogenated Coconut Oil (and) Ceteareth-25) Macadamia Nut Oil Shea Butter Finsolv TN (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) Hombitec H (Titanium Dioxide) Volatile Silicone Oil 344 B ) Keltrol F (Xanthan Gum) Methocel K 100 LV Premium (Methyl Cel ulose) Glycerin Preservative Water up to C) Tocopherol Acetate Fragrance Natipide I1 (Water (and) Alcohol (and Lecithin)
Wt”s 7.00 5.00
5.00 3.00 2.00 2.00 4.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 1.00 0.20 0.50 0.50 5.00 Ci.S
100.00 0.30 0.30 3.00
Preparation: (A) is heated to about 70 degrees C. To form (B), Keltrol and Methocel are dispersed in water and stirred until homogeneous. (B) is brought to the same temperature and emulsified into (A). (C) i s added at 30 degrees C. Formulation 1.1T Cream with Citric Acid Ester and Glycerol
Raw Materials: A) Imwitor 370 (Glyceryl Stearate Citrate) Imwitor 375 (Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/ Oleate) Miglyol 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Imwitor 900 (Glyceryl Stearate) Soft Paraffin Cetyl Alcohol B) Keltrol F (Xanthan Gum) Glycerol Preservative Water up to
Wt$ 3.00 2.00 5.00 4.00 5.00 4.00 0.50 5.00 q.s 100.00
Preparation: (A) is warmed up to ca. 70 degrees C. (B) is mixed until homogeneous, heated up to the same temperature, and emulsified into (A). Formulation 1.1U SOURCE: Creanova Inc.: Suggested Formulations
134
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hiqh Gloss Cream, Type W/O, with Almond Oil Raw Materials: A) Softisan Gel (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1 (and) Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate) Miglyol 0 4 0 (Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/ Dicaprate) Dynacerin 660 (Oleyl Erucate) Imwitor 780K (Isostearyl Diglyceryl Succinate) Almond Oil Shea Butter Magnesium Sulfate Preservative Water
wt%
10.00
10.00 2.00 5.00 2.00 2.00
2.00 up to
Tocopheryl Acetate Perfume " 01iv i a"
q.s. 100.00
0.30 0.30
Preparation: (A) is warmed up to ca. 75 degrees C and stirred. (B) is brought to the same temperature and emulsified into (A). (C) is added at 30 degrees C. Formulation 1.2M (1) Care Cream with Skin Protection Raw Materials : A) Imwitor 375 (Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/ Oleate) Imwitor 960K (Glyceryl Stearate SE) Miglyol 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Softigen 701 (Glyceryl Ricinoleate) Cetyl Alcohol
B) Sorbitol Natrosol 250 HR (Hydroxyethyl Cellulose) Preservative Water up to
C) Fragrance
Wt$ 5.00 5.00 7.00 3.00 2.00 5.00 0.30 q.s. 100.00 q.s.
Preparation: (A) is heated up to 75 degrees C. (B) is heated up to the same temperature and emulsified into (A). At 30 degrees C, (C) is added. Formulation 1.1V SOURCE: Creanova Inc.: Suggested Formulations
Creams
135
Lisht Moisturizins Cream for Dry Skin Ultra light weight moisturizing cream. Leaves the skin with a soft satiny feel from the Liponate NPGC-2. Lipo/DNS Completetech MBAC-DS helps control the oiliness of the skin. Sequence : 1 1 1
Raw Material/INCI Name: Deionized Water Methylparaben Trisodium EDTA
63.35 0.25 0.05
2
Carbopol 2984 (2% sol'n)
17.50
3 3 3 3 3
Liponate NPGC-2 Lipomulse 165 Lipocol C/Cetyl Alcohol Propylparaben Butylparaben
4.00 1.50 0.60 0.10 0.05
Deionized Water Triethanolamine, 99%
1.00 0.35
Deionized Water Unicide U-l3/1midazolidinyl Urea
1.00 0.25
Deionized Water Completech MBAC-DS
8.50 1.50
Wt%
Procedure: 1. Heat Sequence #1 to 75C. Mix with overhead mixer at medium speed until all ingredients are completely into solution. 2. Heat Sequence #2 to 75C and add to Secquence #1 with medium agitation (holding temperature at 75C). 3 . Mix Sequence #3 together and heat to 75C, then add to batch with medium/high agitation. 4. Premix Sequence # 4 ingredients and add to batch at 70-75C. Switch to moderate sweep and cool slowly to 35C. 5. At 35C add Sequence #5 to batch with low/medium speed on sweep until temperature cools to 25C. 6. Premix Sequence #6 together until completely into solution and then add to batch on sweep mixer. SOURCE: Lip0 Chemicals Inc.: Formulation No. 8 2 2
136
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
L i a h t N i a h t Cream Designed f o r normal t o o i l y s k i n , 1i g h t , dry f e e l .
t h i s emulsion features a
I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: P a r t A: Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer/ P e m u l e n TR-2 Carbomer/Carbopol U l t r e z 10 Laneth-5 (and) Ceteth-5 (and) Oleth-5 (and) Steareth-5 Solulan 5 M i n e r a l O i 1 / D r a k e 0 1 21 O c t y l S t e a r a t e / C e t i o l 868 Part 8: G l y c e r i n / P r i c e r i n e 9083 Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Butylparaben/Phenonip Dei o n i zed Water
ww9 0.25 0.50
/
1 .oo 10.00 8.00 2.00
2.00 77.20
P a r t C: S o d i um H y d r o x i d e S o l u t i on ( 1 8% w/w)
0.40
P a r t D: Fragrance/Fruity
0.15
F l o r a l S c e n t NY-16
Properties: pH: 5 . 0 - 5 . 1 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) a t 25C: 5 5 , 0 0 0 - 6 0 , 0 0 0 A p p e a r a n c e : Creamy w h i t e v i s c o u s e m u l s i o n Preparation Procedure: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . He a t u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y l i q u i d and m i x u n t i l h o m o g e n e o u s . Add t h e p o w d e r e d p o l y m e r s t o t h e l i q u i d and m i x u n t i 1 c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . 2 . Combine P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s c o m p l e t e . Add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h g o o d m i x i n g u n t i l t h e p o l y m e r s h y d r a t e w e l l ( a b o u t 15 m i n u t e s ) . 3 . Add n e u t r a l i z e r s l o w l y u n t i l t h i c k e n i n g i s o b s e r v e d . W h i l e t h e emu1 s i on i s s t i 1 1 o f m i x a b l e c o n s i s t e n c y , i n c r e a s e m i x i ny u n t i l t h e e m u l s i o n i s creamy w h i t e and homogeneous. 4 . F i n i s h b y a d d i n g t h e f r a g r a n c e and r e m a i n i n g n e u t r a l i z e r and m i x i n g u n t i1 homogeneous.
SOURCE: B . F . G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n PO053
Creams
137
M o i s t u r i z i n g Cream C o l d P r o c e s s _W[O Ingredients , w_t yo Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Cetyl Dimethicone 5.0 C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) Mineral O i 1 5.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) 5.0 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e g o s o f t M) 5.0 S i l i c a (Degussa R 8 1 2 ) 0.5 Phase 8 : Water 77.9 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.8 H y d r o x y e t h y l C e l l u l o s e ( T y l o s e H20) 0.8 P r e s e r v a t ives Q.S. Perfume Q.S. Color Q.S. Procedure: 1 M i x t h e oils o f Phase A t o g e t h e r . Add t h e fumed s i l i c a t o t h e o i l phase w i t h a d e q u a t e a g i t a t i o n a n d v e n t i l a t i o n . M i x w e l l . 2 Dissolve the Hydroxyethyl Cellulose i n t o t h e vortex o f t h e a g i t a t i n g w a t e r phase. A l l o w t h e c e l l u l o s e t o f u l l y h y d r a t e p r i o r t o a d d i n g t h e sodium c h l o r i d e . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 3 . Add Phase B s l o w l y i n t o Phase A w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 4 . Homogeni z e 5 P r e s e r v a t i v e s , p e r f u m e and c o l o r c a n be added upon f o r m i n g t h e emulsion. B a r r i e r Cream Cold Mix Formula Wt% Ingredients: Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol 5.0 ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5.0 D e c y l O l e a t e ( T e g o s o f t DO) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) 5.0 5.0 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e g o s o f t M) Silica 0.5 Phase B : Sodium C i t r a t e ( s o l u t i o n ) * 20.0 58.7 Water 0.8 Hydroxyethylcellulose Phase C : Fragrance Q.S. P r e s e r v a t i ves Q.S. * l o 0 G Sodium C i t r a t e / l l i t e r w a t e r . pH a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 0 w i t h C i t r c A c i d . Procedure: he i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A u n t i 1 1 . I n a vessel, blend together un i f o r m . 2 . I n a separate vessel, disperse the Hydroxyethylcellulose i n t o t h e water. 3 . Add t h e Phase B s l o w l y t o Phase A w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 4 . Add Phase C , m i x u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . 5 . Homogeni ze and d i s p e n s e . SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
738
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisturizins Day Cream
This emulsion utilizes Glucate SS/Promulgen D as the emulsifier pair. Cremerol HMG provides moisturization. Glucam E-20 and BioCare Polymer BHA-10 are incorporated for humectance and skin hydration. Ucon Fluid AP has specific emollient properties. Viscosity: 100,000 to 120,000 cps pH: 5.5 to 6.5 Inqredients: Phase A: Glucate SS Promulgen D Cetearyl Octanoate Cyclomethicone Cera Alba Cremerol HMG Octyl Methoxycinnamate Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Ucon Fluid AP Phase B: Acrylates/ClO-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Deionized Water Glucam E-20 Phase C: Biocare Polymer BHA-10 Tocopheryl Acetate
Wt$
1.00 1.50 6.00
1.50 1.50
2.00
1.50 0.75
1.50 0.20 q.s.
2.00 1.00 0.10
Phase D: Triethanolamine Preservative Procedures: Disperse the carbomer in the water and add Glucam E-20. Heat phase A and phase B to 75C and add phase B to phase A. Add the triethanolamine while mixing and cool to 35C. Add other ingredients. Readjust the pH. SOURCE: Amerchol: Formulation E952-095-6
Creams
139
M o i s t u r i z i n a M i 1 k Creme w i t h Monasi 1 PLN T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n p r o v i d e s a h i g h d e g r e e o f s u b s t a n t i v i t y and and c o n d i t i o n i n g . I t h e l p s t o m i n i m i z e o r a l l e v i a t e d r y s k i n c o n d i t i o n s w h i l e l e a v i n g a smooth n o n - g r e a s y a f t e r - f e e l .
__ P a-r t :
-Raw - -.Materi
A A A A A
a1 : Monalac MPL Monaquat SL-5 Water Potassium Hydroxide (45%) M o n a s i l PLN
B B B B
Monafax MAP 1 6 0 Monalac ML Cetearyl Alcohol I s o p r o p y l Palmi t a t e
WE
5.0 5.0 57.2 0.2 4.0
0.5 20.0 5.1 3.0
Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y and h e a t t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and c o n t i n u e t o homogenize. S t i r - c o o l , w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n , t o 40C, add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 t h e n f i l l . Physical Properties: Appearance: M i l k y w h i t e F o r m u l a t i o n F-732
Moi sturi z i ng M i 1-k C.re-me
A A A
Raw M a t e r i a l : Water P o t a s s i um H y d r o x i d e ( 4 5 % ) Monafax MAP 1 6 0 Monalac MPL Monaquat TG
WJ% 61 . 2 0.2 0.5 5.0 5.0
B B B
Cetearyl Alcohol Isopropyl Palmitate Monalac ML
5.1 3.0 20.0
Part: A A
Procedure: S e p a r a t e l y combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f b o t h phases i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d and h e a t t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and homogenize. S t i r c o o l , w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n , t o 4 0 C , add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e i f r e q u i r e d t h e n a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 and f i l l . Physical Properties: Appearance: M i 1 ky w h i t e F o r m u l a t i o n F-731
SOURCE:
Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,
Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
740
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
_____ Moi s t u r i z i =Mi
1 k Creme V a r i a t i on
Inqredi%.Ls.L
W B P a r t A: M o n a l a c MPL 3.0 Monaquat SL-5 5.0 Water 60.2 P o t a s s i u m H y d r o x i d e (45%) 0.2 Part 8 : M o n a f a x MAP 1 6 0 0.5 M o n a l a c ML 20.0 5.1 C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( A l f o l 1618CG) Isopropyl Palmitate 2.0 M o n a s i l PCA 1.5 Part C: Fragrance 2.0 Germaben I 1 0.5 Procedure: 1 ) Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h p h a s e s s e p a r a t e l y . 2 ) H e a t b o t h s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C. 3 ) Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and h o m o g e n i z e f o r a t l e a s t 15 m i n u t e s . 4 ) S t i r c o o l , w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n t o 45C. 5 ) Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , and p r e s e r v a t i v e ( P a r t C ) . 6 ) A d j u s t pH t o 6.0-6.5, t h e n f i l l . T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i es : P h y s i c a l Appearance: Viscous M i l k y L o t i o n V i s c o s i t y : 9 , 0 0 0 CP
Moi s t u r i z i n g M i j k Creme This high moisturizing formulation helps t o minimize o r a l l e v i a t e d r y s k i n c o n d i t i o n s w h i l e l e a v i n g a smooth n o n - g r e a s y after-feel I n g r e d i e-nt: Wtfh Part A: M o n a l a c MPL 5.0 M o n a q u a t TG 5.0 Water 61 . 2 P o t a s s i u m H y d r o x i d e (45%) 0.2 Part 8: M o n a f a x MAP 1 6 0 0.5 M o n a l a c ML 20.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 5.1 3.0 I s o p r o p y l Palmi t a t e Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h p h a s e s s e p a r a t e l y a n d h e a t t o 75C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) a n d c o n t i n u e t o h o m o g e n i z e . S t i r - c o o l , w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n , t o 40C, a d d f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r a n d p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 t h e n f i l l .
.
SOURCE:
Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c . : Suggested Formulations
Creams
141
M o i s t u r i z j g q S k i n Cream
An e l e g a n t a n d r i c h m o i s t u r i z i n g c r e a m b a s e d o n t h e NMF ( N a t u r a l M o i s t u r i z i n g F a c t o r ) c o n c e p t o f Prodew 1 0 0 . Ingyedient; A: D e i o n i z e d Water Veegum HV, M a g n e s i u m A l u m i n u m S i l i c a t e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% R h o d i g e l , X a n t h a n Gum 6 : Squalane (Fitoderm)
C e t y l Palmi t a t e Dioctyl Maleate Propylene Glycol Isostearate Pentaerythrityl Tetrapelargonate D i m e t h i c o n e (100 c s . ) Hydrogenated S o y G l y c e r i d e Stearyl Alcohol Stearic Acid C:
S o r b i t o l ( a n d ) Sodium L a c t a t e ( a n d ) P r o l i n e ( a n d ) S o d i u m PCA ( a n d ) H y d r o l y z e d C o l l a g e n ( P r o d e w 1 0 0 ) Preservative
W t .%* 59.60
I .oo 2.40 0.20
6.00 4.00 8.00 4.00 4.00 0.80 1 .oo 1 .oo 5.00
3.00 q.s.
Procedure: Weigh t h e P a r t A w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l a n d m i x w i t h a h o m o g e n i z e r a t 5 0 0 0 r p m . W e i g h a n d d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum H V a n d R h o d i g e l , add them s l o w l y t o t h e w a t e r and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 2 0 m i n u t e s . B e g i n h e a t i n g t o 6 5 C . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s a n d c o n t i n u e m i x i n g a t 5 0 0 0 rprn. W e i g h t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l . M i x a n d h e a t t o 70C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A a n d m i x f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s a t 5 0 0 0 r p m . Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o produce a s m a l l v o r t e x . C o o l w h i l e m i x i n g t o 35C a n d a d d t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g each f o r 5 m i n u t e s . C o n t i n u e c o o l i n g and package a t 25-3OC. *AS r e c e i v e d b a s i s
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , Inc.
I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n f r o m Centerchem,
742
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Multi-functional
Day Cream
F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and Advantages: This Bee's M i l k formulation creates a b a r r i e r t h a t e f f e c t i v e l y r e p l e n i s h e s m o i s t u r e , s o f t e n s and i m p a r t s r a d i a n c e . T h i s w i l l combat d r y s k i n caused by v a r i a t i o n s i n h u m i d i t y and w i l l h e l p t o minimize t h e signs o f aging. Raw M a t e r i a l s : ______-.__ Water Phase I : Bermocol E 4 8 1 G1 y c e r i ne Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i ne
O i l Phase: N i k k o l L e c i no1 S - 1 0-M Squal ane Macadamia Nut O i l Borage O i l Vitamin E Vitamin A Palmitate K e s t e r Wax-62 Glycerol Monostearate O z o k e r i t e 158/160 Hexanedi o l Behenyl Beeswax P h y t o g l y c o l ip i d Liquapar Water Phase 1 1 : Bee's M i l k
___ Wt% 0.4 2.7 52.1 0.2 2.1 7.9 4.3 2.9 0.3 0.3 1.o 0.2 0.3 0.3 4.0 1.o 20.0
Procedure: M i x and h e a t Water Phase I components t o 75C. Add a l l t h e o i l phase components, h e a t t i l l 75C and m i x . Add s l o w l y t h e Water Phase I t o t h e O i l Phase under a g i t a t i o n ( a p p r o x . 700 rpm) m a i n t a i n i n g m i x i n g a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C f o r 5 m i n u t e s (make s u r e t h a t m i x i n g does n o t exceed 800 r p m ' s , as a phase i n v e r s i o n w i l l o c c u r ) . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 50-55C, add Water Phase I 1 a t room t e m p e r a t u r e , under moderate a g i t a t i o n ( a p p r o x . 200 r p m ' s ) , c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 5 m i n u t e s and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and I t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : Sunscreens a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d t o g i v e t h i s p r o d u c t an SPF o f 6 - 8 b y u s i n g E s c a l o l 507 a t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 5% and r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f water and/or o i l s .
SOURCE:
K o s t e r Keunen I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Creams
. N. i
143
ght-CXeam
w t.?h 15.0
I n g r e d i end-s,
Pol y s y n l a n e P a r a f f i n Wax L a n o l i n 01 1 Hydrogenated L a n o l i n Beeswax Stearic Acid Glyceryl Monostearate
2.0 4.0 6.0 3.0 1.5 2.5
1.P.M PEG-200 Mono S t e a r a t e P o t a s s i um H y d r o x i d e
6.0 2.0 0.2
P r e s e r v a t i v e s 8, Perfume
9,s.
Water
ad.
100.0
E n r i c h e d N i g h t Cream (W/O) Ingredients: AL L a n o l a t e Lanoli n Alcohol M i n e r a l 01 1 P a r a f f i n Wax P o l y s y n l ane
Wt% 0.6
2.5 7.5 2.5 12.0 6.0 1 .o 2.5 6.0
I.P.M.
Olive O i l Dehyrnuls E Propylene Glycol Perfume & P r e s e r v a t i v e s Water
ad.
q.s. 100.0
L i q u i d N i g h t Cream I n g r e d i ent-s : Pol y s y n l ane G l y c e r y l Mono-Stearate Lan t r o l Stearic Acid Cetanol Tegin P PEG-200 Mono S t e a r a t e S o l u l a n C-24 Triethanolarnine Veegurn R Perfume & P r e s e r v a t i v e s Water
SOURCE:
Polyesther Corp.:
Wt%
15.0 1.5 3.5 2.5 0.5 2.5 1.0 0.7 0.3 0.5 q.s. ad. 1 0 0 . 0
Suggested Formulations
744
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
N i g h t Cream
No.
Phase:
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15
A A A A A B B B B
B B B B C D
Ingredient: Dei o n i zed w a t e r S o d i um b o r a t e G1 y c e r i n e X a n t h a n gum T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA Cetearyl alcohol Sorbit a n sesquiol eate G1 y c e r y l s t e a r a t e O i l s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i l Vitamin E acetate Beeswax Mineral o i l Octyl palmitate Preservative mixture Fragrance
Wt% 43.45 0.70 2.00 0.30 0.10 2.00 2.00 5.00 8.00 0.20 12.00 15.00 8.00 1.oo 0.25
Manufacturing Procedure: Phase A : H e a t t o 75C. Phase B : H e a t t o 7 5 C . Add t o Phase A . C o o l t o 40C . Phase C : Add t o a b o v e c o o l e d m i x t u r e . Phase D: Add t o a b o v e c o o l e d m i x t u r e a l o n g w i t h Phase C . Homogeni z e . T h i s f o r m u l a i s m e a n t t o b e l e f t on t h e s k i n a n d t o h a v e a h e a v i e r f i l m so t h a t i t l a s t s a l l n i g h t . T h i s i s a w a t e r - i n - o i l e m u l s i o n and t h e p r i n c i p a l e m u l s i f i e r s a r e S o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e and a c o m b i n a t i o n o f sodium b o r a t e and beeswax. T h i s c o m b i n a t i o n o f o i l s g i v e s p r o p e r w e i g h t a n d f e e l . C o u l d b e a l l Macadamia N u t O i l , b u t i t m i g h t b e e x p e n s i v e . T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n c a n a l s o be used a s a make-up r e m o v e r f o r l i p s t i c k a n d e y e makeup. F a c i a1
C1 e a n s i n a Cream
E%
_ N o_ . _ Ph _a_ se: U r e d i e n t : 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
A A B 8 B B B B B
c
D e i o n i zed w a t e r Glycerine Mineral o i l O i 1 s o f A l o h a Macadamia N u t O i 1 O i l s o f Aloha Kukui Nut O i l Cetyl alcohol C12-15 a l c o h o l s b e n z o a t e Glyceryl stearate P o l y s o r b a t e 60 Preservative
54,OO 6.00 15.00 5.00 5.00 2.00 2.00 10.00 1 .oo
QS
Manufacturing Procedure: Phase A : H e a t w a t e r a n d g l y c e r i n e p h a s e t o 75C. Phase B : H e a t o i l p h a s e t o 75C. Add t o w a t e r p h a s e . C o o l t o 40C. Phase C : Add p r e s e r v a t i v e .
SOURCE: O i l s o f A l o h a :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams
145
Nisht Cream W/O with Reqeneration Effect
Comvonent: I Dehymuls PGPH/Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate Lameform TGI/Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate Bienenwachs 8100/Cera Alba Zincum N 29/Zinc Stearate Traubenkernol/Vitis Vinifera Myritol 312/Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides Cetiol SN/Cetearyl Isononanoate Cetiol OE/Dicaprylyl Ether Copherol 1250/Tocopheryl Acetate Vitamin A Palmitate I1
Water 1,4-Butylene Glycol MgS04-7H20
I11 Collapuron DAK/Desamidocollagen Preservative/Perfume
Wt%
4.0 2.0
2.0 2.0
1.0 3.0 8.0
5.0 3.0 0.2
63.3 5.0 1.0 0.5 q.s.
Viscosity, Brookfield, mPas: 112,500 Preparation in the Laboratory: 1. Melt the components listed under I at 80-85C and stir until a homogeneous mixture results. 2. Heat the components listed under I1 to 80-85C and add to phase I with stirring/homogenizing. Stir for 5 minutes at this temperature. 3. Allow the emulsion to cool with stirring in such a way that it remains in continual motion. Avoid incorporation of air. Homogenize at 65-55C by means of a suitable dispersion unit (e.g. Ultra Turrax) in order to improve stability and structure. Add the single components listed under I11 at 30C. Allow to cool to 30C. Hint: Duration and intensity of homogenization influence the viscosity.
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Formulation No. 96/030/3
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
146
N i q h t F o u n d a t i o n Cream T h i s cream e x h i b i t s an e l e g a n t , h i g h l y e m o l l i e n t f e e l . I t i s s u i t a b l e f o r a n i g h t cream, a f o u n d a t i o n cream o r an a l l - p u r p o s e body cream.
__Part: A
I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: U.S.P. White M i n e r a l O i l Cetyl Alcohol Sodium C12-CI5 P a r e t h - 3 S u l f o n a t e / A v a n e l
Wt%
S-30
5.0 0.25 76.75 As D e s i r e d
Propylene Glycol M e t h y l Paraben D e i o n i z e d Water C o l o r & Perfume
B
pH: About 6 . 8 Appearance: Non-pourable,
6.0 10.0 2.0
v i s c o u s cream
Procedure: H e a t p a r t A t o 70C a n d p a r t B t o 75C. Add p a r t A t o p a r t B w i t h moderate t o h i g h a g i t a t i o n , i n c l u d i n g s i d e - s c r a p i n g motion. M i x f o r a f ew m i n u t e s , t h e n c o o l r a p i d l y t o 30C. E m u l s i o n w i l l i n v e r t t o g i v e a viscous w a t e r - i n - o i l emulsion. F o r m u l a t i o n 5-28
A l l P u r p o s e Cream, _Hand & Body -C_rgam T h i s e m u l s i o n i s s i m i l a r t o t h e 5-28, b u t i s l e s s l i p o p h i l i c I t l e a v e s a smooth, n o n - s t i c k y f e e l t o t h e (more h y d r o p h i l i c ) s k i n and i s e x t r e m e l y m i l d . Pa EL' A
B
I n q r-e-d ie nTJT r a d g Na m g l GTS.P. W h i t e M i n e r a l O i l Cetyl Alcohol Sodium C12-Cl5 P a r e t h - 1 5 S u l f o n a t e / A v a n e l S - 1 5 0 CGN P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l M e t h y l Paraben D e i o n i z e d Water C o l o r & Perfume
pH: A b o u t 6 . 8 Appearance: Non-pourable,
WLQh 6.0 10.0 4.0 5.0 0.25 74.75 As D e s i r e d
v i s c o u s cream
Procedure: H e a t p a r t A t o 70C, a n d p a r t B t o 75C. Add p a r t A t o p a r t 8 w i t h moderate t o h i g h a g i t a t i o n , i n c l u d i n g s i d e - s c r a p i n g m o t i o n . M i x f o r a f e w m i n u t e s , t h e n c o o l r a p i d l y t o 30C. E m u l s i o n w i l l i n v e r t t o give a viscous water-in-oil emulsion. Formul a t i on 5-47
SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c . : Suggested Formulations
Creams
Oil-in-Water
147
D i m e t h i c o n e Cream
Wt%
Ingredients: A S i l b i o n e o 1 70047/V350*
20.0
B A r l a t o n e 2 21 G1 y c e r o l P r e s e r v a t iv e Water
5.5 4.0 q.s 70.35
C Rhodopol SC*
0.15
Manufacture: 1 . M i x t h e A r l a t o n e 2 1 2 1 i n t h e h e a t e d w a t e r phase a t 8OC u n d e r m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g u n t i l a homogeneous d i e p s e r s i o n i s f o r m e d . 2 . D i s p e r s e t h e h y d r o c o l l o i d i n t h e h e a t e d aqueous phase a t 75C w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . 3 . Add t h e h e a t e d o i l phase t o t h e aqueous phase u n d e r i n t e n s i v e stirring. 4 . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y a t 75C f o r one m i n u t e . 5 . Cool t o 35C w h i l s t s t i r r i n g m o d e r a t e l y . 6 . Add h e a t - s e n s i t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s w h i l e s t i r r i n g m o d e r a t e l y . Comment: D u r i n g t h e c o o l i n g p r o c e s s ( s t e p 5 ) , when A r l a t o n e 2 1 2 1 e m u l s i o n s t a r t s t o b u i l d up i n t h e l a m e l l a r c r y s t a l l i n e s t r u c t u r e and can r e d u c e t h e f i n a l v i s c o s i t y . The v i s c o s i t y o f t h e f o r m u l a t i o n i s i n v e r s e l y p r o p o r t i o n a l t o t h e m i x i n g energy t h a t has been p u t i n t o t h e e m u l s i o n d u r i n g m a n u f a c t u r e . Comments : V i s c o s i t y : 7 8 , 0 0 0 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, s p i n d l e E . Energy i n p u t i s r e l a t e d t o f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y . *Keltrol
( X a n t h a n Gum,
1NCI)-Kelco
SOURCE: I C I S u r f a c t a n t s : F o r m u l a t i o n F 4 1 - 5 - 9
1 . 5 rpm)
748
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Oil-in-Water
N a t u r a l Cream
Ingredients: A Sunflower o i l Anti -oxidant
B A r l a t o n e 2121
wt% 20.0 q.s
G1 y c e r o l Preservative Water
5.5 4.0 q.s. 70.3
C Rhodopol S C *
0.15
Manufacture: 1 . M i x t h e A r l a t o n e 2121 i n t h e h e a t e d w a t e r phase a t 80C u n d e r m o d e r a t e s t i r r i ng u n t i 1 a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n i s f o r m e d . 2 . D i s p e r s e t h e h y d r o c o l l o i d i n t h e h e a t e d aqueous phase a t 75C w i t h m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g . 3 . Add t h e h e a t e d o i l phase t o t h e aqueous phase under i n t e n s i v e stirring. 4 . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y a t 7 5 C f o r one m i n u t e . 5 . Cool t o 35C w h i l s t s t i r r i n g m o d e r a t e l y . 6 . Add h e a t - s e n s i t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s w h i l s t s t i r r i n g m o d e r a t e l y . Comment: D u r i n g t h e c o o l i n g p r o c e s s ( s t e p 5 ) , when A r l a t o n e 2121 e m u l s i o n s t a r t s t o b u i l d up i n t h e l a m e l l a r c r y s t a l l i n e s t r u c t u r e , moderate s t i r r i n g i s recommended. I n t e n s i v e s t i r r i n g can b r e a k down t h e l a m e l l a r s t r u c t u r e and can r e d u c e t h e f i n a l The v i s c o s i t y o f t h e f o r m u l a t i on i s i n v e r s e l y p r o p v i scosi t y o r t i o n a l t o t h e m i x i n g e n e r g y t h a t has been p u t i n t o t h e emulsion d u r i n g manufacture.
.
SOURCE: ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : F o r m u l a t i o n F 4 1 - 5 - 1 0
Creams
149
O i 1 -in-Water N i a h t Cream Inqredients: A P a r a f f i n o i l perliquidurn* A r l a m o l HD
A r l a m o l M 812 Wheat germ o i l * Vitamin E acetate* A r l a c e l 60 Anti-oxidant B A r l a t o n e 2121
Glycerol Preservatives Water
W B 20.0 10.0 5.0 3.0 2.0 2.0 9.s. 5.5 4.0 q.s. 48.4
C Keltrolw
0.1
D Perfume
q.s.
Manufacture: 1 . M i x t h e A r l a t o n e 2121 i n t h e h e a t e d w a t e r phase a t 80C u n d e r m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g u n t i l a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n i s f o r m e d . 2 . D i s p e r s e t h e h y d r o c o l l o i d i n t h e h e a t e d aqueous phase a t 75C w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . 3 . Add t h e h e a t e d o i l phase t o t h e aqueous phase u n d e r i n t e n s i v e stirring. 4 . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y a t 75C f o r one m i n u t e . 5 . Cool t o 35C w h i l s t s t i r i n g m o d e r a t e l y . 6 . Add h e a t - s e n s i t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s w h i l s t s t i r r i n g m o d e r a t e l y . Comment: D u r i n g t h e c o o l i n g p r o c e s s ( s t e p 5 ) , when A r l a t o n e 2121 e m u l s i o n s t a r t s t o b u i l d up i n t h e l a m e l l a r c r y s t a l l i n e s t r u c t u r e , m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g i s recommended. I n t e n s i v e s t i r r i n g can b r e a k down t h e l a m e l l a r s t r u c t u r e and can r e d u c e t h e f i n a l v i s c o s i t y . The v i s c o s i t y o f t h e f o r m u l a t i o n i s i n v e r s e l y p r o p o r t i o n a l t o t h e m i x i n g e n e r g y t h a t has been p u t i n t o t h e emu1 s i o n d u r i n g m a n u f a c t u r e . P a r a f f i n o i l p e r l i q u i d u m ( M i n e r a l O i l , INC1)-Merck Wheat germ o i 1- S i n e r g a V i t a m i n E a c e t a t e ( T o c o p h e r y l A c e t a t e , INC1)-Roche K e l t r o l ( X a n t h a n Gum, 1 N C I ) - K e l c o F o r m u l a t i o n F41-5-1
*
SOURCE:
ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
150
Cosmetic and To//etryFormulations
011 - 1 n - W a t e r
Volatile Si 1 ?cone_ Cream W_t @&
20.0
5.5
6 A r l a t o n e 2 27 G l ycerol Preservat, e Cldter
4.0 4.5. 70.35
i G h o d o u o l SCX
0.15
Manufacture: : . M i x t h e A t - l a t o r i e 2 1 2 1 i ti t h e I h e a t e d w a t e r p l i a s e a t 80C u n d e r i n l o d e r a t e ti !-r-fily ui-lt-il a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n i s f o r m e d . 7 . D i s p e l - s e t h e h y d r o c o l l o i d i t - I t h e h e a t e d a q u e o u s pi-lase a t 75C v; 3 t k, iniuder a t e st r I- I 1-1 y . 3 . A d d t l i e h e a t e d o i l p h a s e t o t h e aqueous p l i a s e u n d e r i n t e n s i v e 5 t i i-1- I I i LJ . 4 . Uo:iloyei-I-tst! ? l i e n i i x t u i - e i l i t r i - l i ; i v e l y a t 75C f o r o n e i n i n i i t e . 5 , Coo; t o 3 5 C w l l i l s t s i i r r i ~ i ym o d e r a t e ; y . S , Add 17 eat - s ei-ic i t i v e i 1-1 y t- ed i e-1,t 5 i y i i i 1 s t s t i r r i 1-1 g inod e 1- a t e 1 y .
Coniniert t s . D i i r i i - i y t l i e cool i n 9 p r - o i e s i ( s t e p 5 ) wlieii A i - l a t o l i t . 2 1 2 1 eimuisiorl s t a r t s t o t u i ’ ~ d u p it^ t h e ?dine1 i a i c r y s t a 7 i i n e s t t - i i c t u r e ; i i i o d e r a t e s t i i i r i n g i s recomnietided. I n t e n s i v e s t i r r i n g c i i i - : b r e a k t i o w t - ~ tl-ii T amiT a r s t i - u i t i ; r e arld chi-) r e d u c e t h e f i )rial u i sc.ijsi i y . S l - ~ e v i s,cos I t y o f t i ? r - f o i - m u l a t i 01-1 i s I nvel-sel y p r o p ort -,, V- I- I C :’ L U - t h e ii.nx-,i-lg r i i e , r p y t 1 : a t h a s beei-1 p u t i i i t o t h e e l i l u l s l o i i d L l i - i i l y iii,>l
>
Energy
i t y . 3 7 , 4 4 0 t-mPa 5 ( B t - u o h f i 6 : ’ d L V T , s p i n d l e E , 1 . j r p m j - r i j p ~ t 1s r e l a t e r i t o T i h a ; f o r n l u l a t i o n v > s c o s i t y .
:i:Rhodopol
SOUiiCE;
SC (Xantl-iat-1 G t m ;
:NCI)-Rhone
Poulenc
i C i S u r f a c t a n t s : F o r m u i s t i o n F41-5-7
Creams
151
b l i x t h e t \ r i a t o n e 2 1 2 1 i n t h e i - i e a t e d r J a t e r p h a s e a t 8OC u n d e r m o d e r a t e s t i I - r i n g uiit;; a honioyei-ieous d i s p e i s i o n i s f o r m e d . 2 . D i s p e r s e t l h e t i y d r o c o l l o i d i 11 tl-ie h e a t e d aqueous p h a s e a t 75C ~ l t m h o d e r a t e s t i rr-iiny. 3 . Add t h e I-leated o i 1 p h a s e t o t l i e a q u e o u s p l i a s e u n d e r i n t e i - i s i v e I .
.; ,. 8 1.l . Y. 4 . i i o i n o g e i i i s e t h e m i x t u r e i i - l t e i - ~ s i v e l ya t 7 5 C f o r - one n i i l i u t e . 5 . Cool to 3 5 C w h i i s t s t i I - r i n y m o d e r a t e l y . 6 . Add I - i e a t - s e n s i t i v e 1 1 - i y r e d i e i i t s v i l l i 1 s t s t l l - t - i i i g m o d e r a t e l y . .'
Comment; D u r i rig t h e iool i I-iy p r o c e s s ( s t e p 5 ) , V J ~ ~ I - AI-1 I a t o n e 21 21 e m u l s i o n s t a r t s t o build u p i : - i t h e lan-iel7a1- i r y s t a l l i n e s t r u c t t i r e , m o d e r a t e s t i r - I - i n g i s reconriuended. I i - i t e r i s i v e s t i r - r - i i - i ~i a i i b r e a k dovii? t b i e ? a i i i e I l a ~ -s t i u c t u l - e a n d ca1-1 r e d u c e t l i e f i n a l v i s c o s i t y . T h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h e foi.iiiu1atioi-1 i s i n v e r 5 e ; y pr opor t i o n a i t o t h e iiii n i riy e l - j e r y y t i t a t h a s b e e r p u t i i - , t o t h e e m u l s i o n d u r i n g ma,-iufactui-e.
Comments: V i s c o s i t y : 6 2 , 4 0 0 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d L V T , s p - i n d l e E , 1 . 5 rpm) Einercjy i n p u t - 1 5 i - e : a t e d t o f i i - , a : formuiatioii v i s i o s ~ t y .
*Kel t r o l (Xanthai-1 Gum, INC1)-Kelco
SOURCE: iCI S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
752
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
mtimal Face Cream
Raw Materials: I. Emulgade SE (Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate) 4.0 Cutina MD (Glyceryl Stearate) 1.0 Lanette 0 (Cetearyl Alcohol) 1.0 0.5 Baysilon M 3 5 0 (Dimethicone) Cetiol PGL (Hexyldecanol (and) Hexyldecyl Laurate) 7.0 Myritol 312 (Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides) 3.0 Cetiol OE (Dicaprylyl Ether) 4.0 Copherol 1250 (Tocopheryl Acetate) 0.5 X1.D-Panthenol Glycerin 86% Water
1.0
5.0 71.5
1II.Carbopol 980 (Carbomer) Cetiol PGL (Hexyldecanol (and) Hexyldecyl Laurate)
0.2 1.0
IV. KOH, 20% Perfume/Preservative
q.s.
0.3
Viscosity: 100,000 Preparation in the Laboratory: Melt the components listed under I at 80-85C and stir until a homogeneous mixture results, Heat the components listed under I1 to 80-85C and add to phase I with stirring/homogenizing. Add phase I11 (Carbopol mixed with oil) into the hot emulsion and homogenise immediately by means of a suitable dispersion unit (Ultra Turrax). Allow the emulsion to cool with stirring in such a way that it remains in continual motion. Avoid the incorporation of air. Add the single components listed under IV at 40C. Allow to cool to 30C.
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Formulation no.: 96/036/2
Creams
R e i u v e n a t i n a S k i n (O/W)
C
r
153
-
I N C I N a m e / T r a d e Name: Phase A : G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e , PEG-100 S t e a r a t e / A r l a c e l 1 6 5 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e / M i r l y o l 318 C e t y l a l c o h o l / C r o d a c a l C-70 L a n o l i n / C o r o n a PNL L a n o l i n PEG-8 ( a n d ) T o c o p h e r o l ( a n d ) A s c o r b y l P a l m i t a t e ( a n d ) A s c o r b i c A c i d (and) C i t r i c Acid/Oxynex K L i q u i d
yt% 10.00 20.00 3.00 3.00 0.05
Phase 8 : Sorbitol/Hystar G1 y c e r i n
CG
Methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate W a t e r , demi n e r a l i z e d
2.00 1.20 0.15 0.05 9 , s . t o 100.00
Phase C : Water, L e c i t h i n , D i p a l m i t o y l H y d r o x y p r o l i n e , Phenoxyethanol, T a l l O i l S t e r o l , L i n o l e i c Acid, T o c o p h e r o l , Sodium A s c o r b a t e , M e t h y l p a r a b e n , B u t y l paraben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, M a n n i t o l / ASC I I I / R o n a
4.00
Procedure: H e a t Phase A t o 75C, Phase B t o 8OC. Add Phase B s l o w l y t o Phase A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . H o m o g e n i z e a n d c o o l down w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add Phase C t o 35C. Notes: Viscosity:
2 6 0 , 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, S p . C ,
SOURCE: R o n a / E M
Industries,
I n c . : F o r m u l a 13-06/K
5 r p m ) a t 24C
154
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shower Cream Concept S t a t e m e n t : A smooth, m o i s t u r i z i n g , p e a r l e s c e n t shower cream w i t h a u n i q u e s i l k y s k i n f e e l f r o m P o l y q u t a 400, Promois S i l k and Promois M i l k .
w?3
Ingr.ed!entsi
1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 31 . 9 0 2 . P o l y q u t a 400 ( P o l y q u a t e r n i u m 10) 1.oo 3. P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l 5.00 4 . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e 24.00 5 . Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e 24.00 6 . R i t a t a i n e (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) 6.40 7. Lauramide DEA 3.00 8 . R i t a EGMS ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e ) 2,oo 9 . Promois S i l k - 1 0 0 0 ( H y d r o l y z e d S i l k ) 0.10 1 0 . Promoi s M i 1 k (Hydro1 yzed Casei n ) 0.10 11 . C i t r i c A c i d ( 5 0 % S o l u t i o n ) q.s. 2.00 12.Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n ) 13.Phenoxyethanol 0.50 14. Fragrance q.s. q.s. 15.D&C Red No. 33 q.s. 16.FD&C Y e l l o w No. 5 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Heat i t e m 1 t o 75C. S l o w l y add i t e m s 3 and 12 u n t i l d i s p e r s e d v e r y w e l l . W h i l e m i x i n g , add i t e m s 3 - 8 . A d j u s t p H t o 6 . 5 u s i n g i t e m 1 1 . Cool t o 4 0 C . Add i t e m s 9 , 1 0 , and 1 3 - 1 6 . F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . No. 124-296
..t Cream .... -. Emol 1.i..e.n ~
Concept S t a t e m e n t : An e l e g a n t w h i t e , creamy e m u l s i o n i n c o r p o r a t i n g P a t i o n i c SCL, w i t h e x c e l l e n t f e e l amd m o i s t u r i z i n g b e n e f i t s .
5 nsrr_edient_s_.:_
Wt.%
1 . P a t i o n i c SCL (Sodium Cocoyl L a c t y l a t e ) 0. 50 2 . R i t a C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l 50/50 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1 .60 3 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 4.00 4. R i t a IPP ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 5.00 5 . C a p r i c / C a p r y l ic T r i g l y c e r i d e 10.00 6 . White Petrolatum 5.00 7. G l y c e r i n e 3.00 8 . A c r i t a m e r 501E (Carbomer) (3% aq. s o l n . ) 3.34 9. D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 67.06 1 0 . Phenoni p 0 50 Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1 t o 6 and h e a t t o 8OC. Combine i t e m s 7 t o 9 and h e a t t o 80C. A d j u s t w a t e r phase t o pH o f 6 . 5 . Add o i l phase t o w a t e r phase w h i l e m i x i n g . Homogenize a t 60-8OC. Cool t o 35C w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n and add i t e m 1 0 . F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . No. 124-23 I
SOURCE:
R.I.T.A. C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams
155
Shower Cream Concept Statement: A smooth, moisturizing, pearlescent shower cream with a unique silky skin feel from Polyquta 400, Promois Silk and Promois Milk. Inaredients: 1. Distilled/Deionized Water 2. Polyquta 400 (Polyquaternium 10) 3. Propylene Glycol 4. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate 5. Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate 6. Ritataine (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) I . Lauramide DEA 8. Rita EGMS (Glycol Stearate) 9. Promois Silk-1000 (Hydrolyzed Silk) 10.Promois Milk (Hydrolyzed Casein) 11.Citric Acid ( 5 0 % Solution) l2.Sodium Chloride (25% Solution) 13.Phenoxyethanol 14.Fragrance 15.D&C Red No. 33 16.FD&C Yellow No. 5
wt%
33.90 1.00 3.00 24.00 24.00 6.40 3.00 2.00 0.10 0.10 q.s. 2.00 0.50 q.s. q.s. q.s.
Compounding Procedure: Heat item 1 to 75C. Slowly add items 3 and 12 until dispersed very well. While mixing, add items 3-8. Adjust pH to 6.5 using item 11. Cool to 40C. Add items 9,lO and 13-16. Formulation Ref. No. 124-29C Emollient Skin Cream Concept statement: An elegant, smooth cream formulated with Pationic SBL, to provide natural moisture and softening. Inqredients:
1. Pationic SBL (Sodium Behenoyl Lactylate)
2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
Rita Cetearyl Alcohol 50/50 (Cetearyl Alcohol) Rita GMS (Glyceryl Stearate) Rita IPP (Isopropyl Palmitate) Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride White Petrolatum I . Glycerine 8. Distilled/Deionized Water 10.Phenonip
Wt%
1.50 3.00 2.60 5.00 10.00 5.00 3.00 61.40
0.50
Compounding Procedure: Combine items 1 to 6 and heat to 80C. Combine items 7 and 8 and heat to 80C. Add oil phase to water phase while mixing. Homogenize at 60-80C. Cool to 35C with slow agitation and add item 9. Formulation Ref. 124-24 SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp.: Suggested Formulations
756
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
S k i n Cream
Raw Materials: A: Mineral oil Cetyl alcohol Propylene glycol stearate Glyceryl stearate PEG-10 stearate PEG-40 stearate Butylparaben Amihope LL
wt% 19.0 4.0 1.0 3.0
2.0 1.0 0.1 3.0 0.3 5.0
B: Acylglutamate HS-11 Butylene glycol Methylparaben Water
0.2 balance
Procedure: Dissolve ( A ) (disperse Amihope LL) & (B) at 80-85C. Add (B) to (A) with stirring and cool to room temperature with homomixer stirring. Note: Amihope LL provides smooth and silky touch. Acylglutamate HS-11 is used as an emulsifier to stabilize the emulsions. Formula SC-1306 L S k i n Cream
Wt%
Raw Materials: A: Mineral oil #70 IPP Stearyl alcohol Cetyl alcohol Glyceryl stearate Ceteareth-20 Propylparaben
8.0 2.0 2.0 0.5 0.5 1.0 0.1
B: Methylparaben Ajidew N-50 Carbomer 940 (1% solution) Water C: Sodium hydroxide solution (10%)
0.1 4.4 10.0 balance 10.5
Procedure: Heat (A) at 75-80C to dissolve. Heat (B) at 80C. Stir (A) with high speed homomixer and add (B), then add (C) immediately. Stir all ingredients at 3000 rpm for 3 minutes. Cool to room temperature. Formula No. 2L-116
SOURCE: Ajinomoto U . S . A . ,
Inc.: Suggested Formulations
Creams
157
S k i n Cream
Wt%
Raw M a t e r i a l s : A:
Eldew CL-301 Squal ane Hydrogenated c o c o - g l y c e r i d e s Polyglyceryl-2 oleate Polyglyceryl-2 stearate
5.0 (Emalex STG-R)
15.0 4.0 1.o 4.0
0.4 5.0 0.2
8 : A c y l g l u t a m a t e HS-I1 B u t y l ene g l y c o l Methyl paraben Water
balance
Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) & ( 8 ) a t 80-85C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) w i t h s t i r r i n g and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h homomixer s t i r r i n g . Note: Eldew CL-301 c o n t r i b u t e s t o i m p r o v e s p r e a d a b i l i t y and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f a cream. I t r e d u c e s s t i c k i n e s s and o c c l u s i v e n e s s o f e m u l s i o n s . A c y l g l u t a m a t e HS-11 w o r k s as an e m u l s i f i e r t o s t a b i l i z e t h e emulsion. Formula No. MC-1
S k i n Cream
________ Raw M a t e r i a1 s : A:
Mineral o i l Cetyl alcohol Propylene g l y c o l s t e a r a t e Glyceryl stearate PEG-I0 s t e a r a t e PEG-40 s t e a r a t e B u t y l paraben Amihope L L
B : A c y l g l u t a m a t e HS-11 Butylene g l y c o l Methyl paraben Water
Wt% 19.0 4.0 1.o
3.0 2.0
1.o 0.1
3.0 0.3 5.0 0.2 balance
Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) ( d i s p e r s e Amihope LL) and (B) a t 80-85C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) w i t h s t i r r i n g and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h homomixer s t i r r i ng. N o t e : Amihope L L p r o v i d e s smooth and s i l k y t o u c h . A c y l g l u t a m a t e i s used as an e m u l s i f i e r t o s t a b i l i z e t h e e m u l s i o n s . F o r m u l a SC-1306L
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A . , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
158
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
S k i n Cream
Wt%
Raw M a t e r i a l s : A: M i n e r a l o i l I s o p r o p y l palmi t a t e Stearyl alcohol C e t y l a1 coho1 G l y c e r y l monostearate POE(20) C e t y l e t h e r Propyl paraben
8.0 2.0 2.0 0.5 0.5 1.o 0.1
8:
Prodew 400 Carboxy v i n y l p o l y m e r ( 0 . 5 % a s . ) Water Methyl paraben
C:
Sodium h y d r o x i d e ( 1 % a s . )
4.4 20.0 balance 0.1
4.0
Procedure: D i s s o l v e i n g r e d i e n t s ( A ) w i t h s t i r r i n g a t 75-8OC. D i s s o l v e i n g r e d i e n t s ( 8 ) a t 80C. M i x ( A ) w i t h homomixer and add (6) t o e m u l s i f y and add ( C ) i m m e d i a t e l y and m i x w i t h 3000 r p m s t i r r i n g f o r 3 minutes. A f t e r e m u l s i f y i n g , c o o l down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Formula 2LP-131 Em011 i e n t Cream Raw M a t e r i a l s : A : Eldew C L- 301 Squal ane Hydrogenated Coco-glycerides Pol y g l y c e r y l - 2 Oleate Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate
5.0 0.2 0.4 65.4
B:
Butylene Glycol Methyl paraben Acylglutarnate HS-11 Water F o r m u l a MC-1
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A . ,
5.0 15.0 4.0 1.o 4.0
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams
159
S o f t Cream
I n q r e d i en t s : A . Arlamol ISML, i s o s o r b i d e monolaurate Stearyl alcohol A r l a m o l E , POP ( 1 5 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r D i m e t h i c o n e , 250 c s . B r i j 700, POE ( 1 0 0 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 72, POE ( 2 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r
1.oo
0.50 2.25 2 -25 88.05 0.40
B . Water Carbomer 934
C.
ydtd
4.00 1.00
Sodium h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % aqueous)
0.40
D. P r e s e r v a t i v e
0.10
E.
0.05
Fragrance
Suggested P r e p a r a t i o n : Heat A t o 70C and B t o 72C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add C . Add D b e l o w 5 0 C . Add E a t 35C and add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Comments: T h i s cream has a l o w e m o l l i e n c e . I t i s n o n - g r e a s y and has a very pleasant a f t e r f e e l . I t i s r e l a t i v e l y inexpensive s i n c e i t c o n t a i n s n e a r l y 90% w a t e r . T h i s f o r m u l a i s s t a b l e f o r a t l e a s t t h r e e months a t 5C, 40C and 50C and f o r a t l e a s t s i x f r e e z e - t h a w c y c l e s . E m o l l ie n t S k i n Cream __
_ _ I
Ingredients: WZ% A r l a m o l ISML I s o s o r b i d e L a u r a t e 4.00 1 .oo Stearyl alcohol 1 .oo Arlamol E S i 1 i c o n e o i 1, 350 c s . 0.50 2.25 B r i j 700 S t e a r e t h - 1 0 0 2.25 B r i j 72 S t e a r e t h - 2 B: Water 88.20 Carbomer 9 3 4 0.40 C : Sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n , 10% aqueous 0.40 D: P r e s e r v a t i v e q.s. E : Fragrance q.s. P r e p a r a t i on : Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) b e l o w 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C and r e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n . F o r m u l a SK-4
A:
SOURCE:
ICI
Surfactants:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
760
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Soft
Cream,
T v p e m
________Raw M a t e r i a1 s : A:
Dehymuls PGPH Lameform TGI Beeswax Isopropyl myri s t a t e M y r i t o l 318 C e t i o l 868 Phenoni p Oxynex LM
Wt% 7.00 3.00 5.00 10.00 5.00 5.00 0.30 0.10
B : W a t e r , d i s t i l ed Phenoni p Karion F l i q u d
49.30 0.30 5.00
Glycoderm ( P )
10.00
C:
Manufacture: A : M e l t and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 75C. B: B r i n g t o a p p r o x . 75C and add t o A w i t h s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C. C: S t i r i n . Perfume, r o l l .
__ Raw M a t e r i a1 s : A:
Emulgade SE C e t i o l LC C e t i o l SB 45 L a n e t t e 18 Phenoni p
B: W a t e r , d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p G1 y c e r i n C a r b o p o l 954 C:
KOH 10%
D:
Glycoderm ( P )
wt% 3-00 5.00 2.00 3.00 0.30 71 . 6 0 0.30 3.00 0.30 1.50
10.00
Manufacture: A : M e l t and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C. B: B r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C and add t o A w i t h s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 50C. C : Add. C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C. D: S t i r i n . Perfume, homogenize.
SOURCE: Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i u m D r . K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: Suggested Formulations
Creams
161
L!l tWx3Wistu.r LzLns-.S.kj-n.-Crea.m Formula P r o f i l e : The s y n e r g i s t i c m i x t u r e o f Veegum U l t r a a n d C a r b o p o l w i l l c r e a t e a t h i c k r i c h cream t h a t w i l l h a v e t h e Carbomer f e e l w i t h o u t t h e t a c k . Veegum U l t r a w i l l i m p r o v e s t a b i l i t y a n d m a i n t a i n v i s c o s i t y o f the product through i t s s t a b i l i t y cycle. The e m o l l i e n t s i n t h e o i l p h a s e and h u m e c t a n t s i n t h e w a t e r phase w i l l s u p p o r t l a s t n g r e s i d u a l s k i n f e e l and m o i s t u r i z a t i o n . I n x r e d ie n t s : w.t_o/, A: Water 81.1 Veegum U l t r a ( M a g n e s i u m A l u m i n u m S i l i c a t e ) 0.5 Carbomer (Carb op ol 9 3 4 ) 0.5 8: G l y c e r i n 3.0 2.0 B u t y l e n e G1 y c o l I .o C: C e t y l A l c o h o l G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e SE ( D e r m a c a r e MS SE) 3.0 5.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Neobee M-5) C12-15 O c t a n o a t e ( F i n e s t e r EH-25) 1.o D i m e t h i c o n e (DC-200 f l u i d - 3 5 0 c t s ) 1.o Steareth-2 ( B r i j 72) 0.83 0.83 Steareth-21 ( 8 r i j 721) D: P r e s e r v a t i v e qs E: F r a g r a n c e qs F: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0.24 C i t r i c Acid A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 6 t - 0 . 3 qs Procedure: S t e p 1 . D r y b l e n d Veegum U l t r a a n d C a r b o p o l 9 3 4 i n P a r t A . ( D r y b l e n d i n g r e d u c e s t h e c l u m p i n g o f C a r b o p o l and a l l o w s f o r t h e s i m u l t a n e o u s i n t r o d u c t i o n o f i n g r e d i e n t s ) . S i f t t h e powder i n t o a n e s t a b l i s h e d v o r t e x i n t h e w a t e r . Veegum U l t r a w i l l b e c o m p l e t l y h y d r a t e d w i t h i n 15 m i n u t e s . A l l o w a b o u t 45 m i n u t e s f o r Carbomer h y d r a t i o n . The a d d i t i o n o f a n y o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s d u r i n g t h e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s w i l l i n t e r f e r e w i t h t h e h y d r a t i o n o f Veegum U l t r a a n d w i l l r e d u c e o r even e l i m i n a t e t h e d e s i r e d p r o p e r t i e s g e n e r a t e d b y t h e Magnesium A l u m i n u m S i l i c a t e . S t e p 2 : B e g i n h e a t i n g w a t e r p h a s e i n S t e p 1 t o 70C-75C. S t e p 3 : Once h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s i s c o m p l e t e d , a d d r e m a i n i n g w a t e r phase i n g r e d i e n t s f r o m P a r t B t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 4 : B l e n d o i l phase i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t C and h e a t t h e o i l p h a s e t o 70C-75C. S t e p 5 : When b o t h p h a s e s a r e a t 70C-75C, a d d o i l p h a s e i n S t e p 4 t o w a t e r phase S t e p 2 . S t e p 6 : C o o l t o 45C. Add P a r t D - P r e s e r v a t i v e t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 7 : Add P a r t E - F r a g r a n c e t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 8 : C o o l t o 35C. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 6 w i t h P a r t F . Product S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d LVT: 4 2 5 , 0 0 0 + - 2 5 , 0 0 0 c p s a f t e r 2 4 h o u r s . pH: 5 . 3 - 5 . 9 T h i s f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s a s t a b l e e m u l s i o n t h a t p a s s e s 3 month s t a b i l i t y a t RT, 5 C , 38C, 50C a n d 3 c y c l e F / T . ~
SOURCE:
R.T,
V a n d e r b i l t Co.,
Inc.:
F o r m u l a No, 469
762
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
__U l t r a - M o i s t u r i z i n s S k i n Cream Formula P r o f i l e : The s y n e r g i s t i c m i x t u r e o f Veegum U l t r a and C a r b o p o l w i l l c r e a t e a t h i c k , r i c h cream t h a t w i l l have t h e g r e a t Carbomer f e e l w i t h o u t t h e t a c k . Veegum U l t r a w i l l i m p r o v e s t a b i l i t y and m a i n t a i n t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h e p r o d u c t . The e m o l l i e n t s i n t h e o i l phase and t h e h u m e c t a n t s i n t h e w a t e r phase w i l l s u p p o r t l a s t i n g r e s i d u a l s k i n f e e l and m o i s t u r i z a t i o n . Ingredients: A : Water 81.44 Veegum U l t r a (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e ) 0.25 Carbomer ( C a r b o p o l 934) 0.25 B: G l y c e r i n 3.0 Butylene Glycol 2.0 C: Cetyl Alcohol 1.o G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e SE (Dermacare MS SE) 3.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Neobee M-5) 5.0 C12-15 O c t a n o a t e ( F i n e s t e r EH-25) 1.o D i m e t h i c o n e (DC-200 f l u i d - 3 5 0 c t s ) 1.2 S t e a r e t h - 2 ( B r i j 72) 0.83 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 ( B r i j 721) 0.83 D: Preservative qs E: F r a g r a n c e qs F: Triethanolamine 0.2 C i t r i c Acid A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 6 t - 0 . 3 qs Procedure: S t e p 1 : D r y b l e n d Veegum U l t r a and C a r b o p o l i n P a r t A . ( D r y b l e n d i n g r e d u c e s t h e c l u m p i n g o f C a r b o p o l and a l l o w s f o r t h e s i m u l t a n e o u s i n t r o d u c t i o n o f i n g r e d i e n t s ) . S i f t t h e powder i n t o an e s t a b l i s h e d v o r t e x i n t h e w a t e r . Veegum U l t r a w i l l be h y d r a t e d w i t h i n 1 5 m i n u t e s . A l l o w a b o u t 45 m i n u t e s f o r t h e Carbopol s l u r r y t o h y d r a t e completely The a d d i t i o n o f any o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s d u r i n g t h e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s w i l l i n t e r f e r e w i t h t h e h y d r a t i o n o f Veegum U l t r a and w i l l r e d u c e o r even e l i m i n a t e t h e d e s i r e d p r o p e r t i e s g e n e r a t e d b y t h e Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e . S t e p 2 : B e g i n h e a t i n g w a t e r phase i n S t e p 1 t o 70-75C. S t e p 3 : Once t h e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s i s c o m p l e t e d , add r e m a i n i n g w a t e r phase i n g r e d i e n t s f r o m P a r t B t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 4 : B l e n d o i l phase i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t C and h e a t t h e o i l phase t o 70-75C. S t e p 5 : When b o t h phases a r e a t 70-75C, add o i l phase i n S t e p 4 t o w a t e r phase S t e p 2 . S t e p 6 : Cool t o 45C. Add P a r t D - P r e s e r v a t i v e t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 7 : Add P a r t E - F r a g r a n c e t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 8 : Cool t o 35C. A d j u s t pH w i t h P a r t F . P r o d u c t Speci f ic a t ions : V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d L V T D V I I , S p i n d l e #TF @ 0 . 3 RPM: 300,OOOt30,000 c p s a f t e r 24 h o u r s . pH: 5 . 3 - 5 . 9 T h i s f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s a s t a b l e e m u l s i o n and passes 3 month s t a b i l i t y t e s t i n g a t RT, 5C, 38C, 50C and 3 c y c l e F / T .
w a
.
SOURCE:
R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co.,
Inc.:
F o r m u l a No 474
Creams
163
U1 t r a - M o i s t u r i z i nq S k i n Cream Formula P r o f i l e : The s y n e r g i s t i c m i x t u r e o f Veegum U l t r a a n d C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 1 0 w i l l c r e a t e a t h i c k r i c h cream t h a t w i l l have t h e g r e a t Carbomer f e e l w i t h o u t t h e t a c k . Veegurn U l t r a w i l l i m p r o v e s t a b i l i t y a n d m a i n t a i n t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h e p r o d u c t . The e m o l l i e n t s i n t h e o i l phase and t h e humectants i n t h e w a t e r phase w i l l s u p p o r t l a s t i n g r e s i d u a l s k i n f e e l and m o i s t u r i z a t i o n . I n P r e d ie n t s :. Wt% A: Water 81.14 Veegum U l t r a ( M a g n e s i u m A l u m i n u m S i l i c a t e ) 0.5 Carborner ( C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 1 0 ) 0.5 B: G l y c e r i n 3.0 B u t y l ene G l y c o l 2.0 C: Cetyl Alcohol 1.o G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e SE ( D e r m a c a r e MS S E ) 3.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( N e o b e e M-5) 5.0 1.o C12-15 O c t a n o a t e ( F i n e s t e r EH-25) D i m e t h i c o n e (DC-200 f l u i d - 3 5 0 c t s ) 1.o S t e a r e t h - 2 ( B r i j 72) 0.83 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 ( B r i j 721) 0.83 D: Preservative qs E : Fragrance qs F: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0.2 C i t r i c Acid A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 6 t - 0 . 3 qs Procedure: S t e p 1 : D r y b l e n d Veegum U l t r a a n d C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 1 0 i n P a r t A . (Dry blending a l l o w s f o r t h e simultaneous i n t r o d u c t i o n o f ingredi e n t s , even t h o u g h t h e s e raw m a t e r i a l s do n o t h a v e t o b e added s i m u l t a n e o u s l y ) . S i f t t h e powder i n t o an e s t a b l i s h e d v o r t e x i n t h e w a t e r . The Veegum U l t r a a n d C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 1 0 w i l l b e h y d r a t e d w i t h i n 15 minutes. The a d d i t i o n o f a n y o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s d u r i n g t h e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s w i l l i n t e r f e r e w i t h t h e h y d r a t i o n o f Veegum U l t r a a n d w i l l r e d u c e o r even e l i m i n a t e t h e d e s i r e d p r o p e r t i e s g e n e r a t e d b y t h e M a g n e s i um A 1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e . Step 2 : Begin h e a t i n g water phase i n Step 1 t o 70C-75C. S t e p 3 : Once t t t e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s i s c o m p l e t e d , a d d r e m a i n i n g w a t e r phase i n g r e d i e n t s f r o m P a r t B t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 4 : B l e n d o i l phase i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t C and h e a t t h e o i l p h a s e t o 70C-75C. S t e p 5 : When b o t h p h a s e s a r e a t 70C-75C, a d d o i l p h a s e i n S t e p 4 t o t h e w a t e r phase S t e p 2 . S t e p 6 : C o o l t o 45C. Add P a r t D - P r e s e r v a t i v e t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 7 : Add P a r t E - F r a g r a n c e t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 8 : C o o l t o 35C. A d j u s t pH w i t h P a r t F . Product S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d LVT DV I , S p i n d l e #TF @ 0 . 3 RPM: 300,OOOt30,000 cps a f t e r 24 hours pH: 5 . 3 - 5 . 9 T h i s f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s a s t a b e e m u l s i o r : and p a s s e s 3 month s t a b i l i t y t e s t i n g a t RT, 5C 38C, 50C a n d 3 c y c l e F / T
SOURCE:
R.T. Vanderbilt
Co.,
Inc.:
F o r m u l a No. 4 7 5
164
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Vani s h i na Cream
Wt%
Ingredients: A . Arlamol ISML, i s o s o r b i d e monolaurate Stearyl alcohol Dimethicone, 350 c s . A r l amol E, p o l y o x y p r o p y l ene ( 1 5 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 700, polyoxyethylene ( 1 0 0 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 72, polyoxyethylene ( 2 ) s t e a r y l ether
10.0 4.0 0.5 3.0 2.0 3.0
B . Water S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n USP Carbomer 9 3 4
72.9 4.0 0.2
C.
Sodium h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % aqueous)
0.2
D . P r e s e r v a t i ve
0.1
Fragrance
0.1
E.
Suggested P r e p a r a t i o n : Heat A t o 7 0 C and B t o 72C. Add B t o A w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add C . Add D b e l o w 5 0 C . Add E t o 35C and add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . I n t h i s formula Arlamol ISML, i s o s o r b i d e monolaurate i s t h e p r i m a r y e m o l l i e n t complemented b y A r l a m o l E , POE ( 1 5 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r . S t e a r y l a l c o h o l i s t h e v i s c o s i t y b u i l d e r , and s i l i c o n e o i l e l i m i n a t e s " s o a p i n g . " B r i j 7 0 0 , POE ( 1 0 0 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r and B r i j 7 2 , POE ( 2 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r were chosen because o f t h e i r e x c e l l e n t e m u l s i f i e r p r o p e r t i e s f o r Arlamol ISML, i s o sorbide monolaurate. The above f o r m u l a i s s t a b l e a t 5 C , R . T . , and 40C, f o r t h r e e months. I t i s a l s o s t a b l e f o r a t l e a s t s i x freeze-thaw c y c l e s . Emol 1 ie n t Cream Ingredi ents: A : A r l a m o l E pop 1 5 s t e a r y l e t h e r A r l a s o l v e 2 0 0 L i q u i d ( 7 2 % a c t i v e ) poe 2 0 i s o h e x a d e c y l ether B r i j 72 poe 2 s t e a r y l e t h e r S t e a r y l a l c o h o l , USP B : Carbomer 9 3 4 Water, d e i o n i z e d C : NaOH (10% w / w aqueous) D : Perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e
W B 20.0 1.1 7.2 2.0 0.2 69.3 0.2 9.s.
Preparation: D i s p e r s e t h e Carborner 9 3 4 i n t h e w a t e r . Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add (D) between 35-4OC. Pour a b o u t 3 5 C . F o r m u l a t i o n AE-16
SOURCE: ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Creams
165
W a t e r - i n - O i 1 Cream Wto/,
Ingredients: A : A r l a c e l 582 Arlatone T A r l a m o l HD M a g n e s i um s t e a r a t e Beeswax C a n d e l i l l a wax Isopropyl myri s t a t e Almond o i l D i m e t h i c o n e 1 0 0 mPa s Oxynex 2 0 0 4 * A e r o s i 1 R972*
2.5 0.5 12.0 0.5 1.5 0.5 6.0 3.0 0.5 0.05 0.5 1.25 1.25 1.5 0.5 q.s. 67.95
B : A t l a s G-2330
P r o p y l ene g l y c o l Glycerol MgS04-7H20 Preservatives Water C:
q.s.
Perfume
Manufacture: 1 . H e a t A a n d B s e p a r a t e l y t o 8OC. 2 . Add B t o A s l o w l y w h i l s t s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . 3 . Homogenise f o r 1 m i n u t e . 4 . C o o l t o 50C w h i l s t s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . 5 . Homogenise f o r 1 m i n u t e . 6 . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w h i l s t s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Comments : N o t e t h a t t h e e m u l s i o n i s made w i t h a n e x t r e m e l y s m a l l amount o f e m u l s i f i e r . To c o m p e n s a t e f o r t h i s , v e r y i n t e n s i v e h o m o g e n i s a t i o n i s e s s e n t i a l . The s i l i c a i s a d d e d f o r r h e o l o g i c a l p u r p o s e s and i m p r o v e s t h e s k i n - f e e l . V i s c o s i t y : 3 0 0 , 0 0 0 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d L V T , s p i n d l e F , 1 . 5 r p m ) *Oxynex 2 0 0 4 ( A n t i o x i d a n t p r e p a r a t i o n ) - M e r c k A e r o s i l R972 ( S i l i c a D i m e t h y l S i l y l a t e , I N C 1 ) - D e g u s s a
SOURCE:
ICL Surfactants:
F o r m u l a t i o n F44-12-2
766
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W/O Basic Cream Raw Materials: A) Miglyol 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Imwitor 780K (Isostearyl Diglyceryl Succinate) Imwitor 928 (Glyceryl Cocoatej Vaseline, white (Petrolatum) Elfacos ST 9 (PEG-45/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer) Elfacos C 26 (Hydroxyoctacosanyl/Hydroxystearate) ~
B ) Preservative Water
Wt9, 7.00 6.00 3.00 9.00 4.00 5.00 q.s.
up to
C) Fragrance
100.00 q.s.
Preparation: (A) is heated up to 75 degrees C. (B) is brought to the same temperature and emulsified into (A). The cream is cooled while stirring, and at about 30 degrees C, the fragrance is added. Formulation 1.2P Skin Protective Cream with Silicone Fluid (With AHA-Ester) Raw Materials: A) Imwitor 370 (Glyceryl Cocoate/Citrate/Lactate) Miglyol 8 1 2 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Phenyl Dimethicone B ) Keltrol F (Xanthan Gum) Preservative Water
up to
C) Fragrance
Wt% 8.00 10.00 5.00 0.30 q.s. 100.00 q.s.
Preparation: (A) is heated up to 75 degrees C. ( B ) is stirred together and heated up to the same temperature and emulsified into (A). At about 35 degrees C, (C) is added. Formulation 1.1W SOURCE: Creanova I n c . : Suggested Formulations
Creams
767
W/O Cream with Eldew
Inqredients/Trade Name: Part A: Di-(Cholesteryl, behenyl, octyldodecyl) N-Lauroyl-Lglutamic acid ester/Eldew CL-301 Cetearyl Octanoate C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Phenoxyethanol Tocopheryl Acetate Part B: Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (and) Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol (and) Hexyl Laurate Cetyl Dimethicone Part C: Deionized Water Sodium Chloride Glycerin (99.5%) PaGtially Deacetylated Chitin (l.O%)/Marine Dew PC-100 Part D: Methylparaben Butylene Glycol
wt% 2.0 8.0 5.0 0.60 0.05
5.00 2.00 68.55 0.80 5.00 2.00 0.20 0.80
Procedure: Pre-melt Part A at 50C. Add Part B to Part A. Pre-melt Part D by heating to 50C. Add to Part C. Slowly add Part C and D mixture to Parts A and B with high shear mixing. Appearance: White, smooth, shiny lotion pH: 6.00-6.50 Viscosity: 20,000 cps (RVT #6 @ lOrpm @ 25C) Hand Cream Raw Materials: (0)Liquid Paraffin (#70) Cetyl Alcohol Nikkol WCB Isopropyl Myristate Glyceryl Monostearate (Self Emulsifying Type) Polyoxyethylene (20) CetyL Ether
10.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 2.9 2.1
(W) Ajidew N-50 Water Preservative
3.0 67.0
Wt%
q.s.
Procedure: 1. Heat (0) and (W) to 80C. 2 . Add (W) to (0)slowly with stirring 3. Cool to 40C with stirring. pH: 5.2 SOURCE: Ajinomoto U.S.A., Inc.: Suggested Formulations
768
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W/O
Light
Cream
Inaredients: A ) A r l a c e l P - 1 3 5 , PEG-30 D i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e A r l a m o l S7, C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) PPG-15 s t e a r y l e t h e r A r l a m o l HD, I s o h e x a d e c a n e C a s t o r wax, H y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l B ) A t l a s G-2330, S o r b e t h - 3 0 MgS04-7H20, M a g n e s i u m s u l f a t e Water Preservative
C)
Perfume
&to/, 4.0 6.0 12.0 2.0 4.0 0.7 71 . 3 q.s.
9,s.
Procedure: H e a t ( A ) a n d ( B ) t o 75C. S l o w l y a d d ( 6 ) t o ( A ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g v i g o r o u s l y . Homogenize t h o r o u g h l y f o r 1 m i n u t e . A l l o w t o c o o l t o t45C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Homogenize t h o r o u g h l y f o r 1 m i n u t e . A l l o w t o cool t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g v i g o r o u s l y . Add p e r f u m e a n d a l l o w t o c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Comments : V i s c o s i t y : 4 4 , 0 0 0 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d L V T / s p i n d l e E/rpm 6 ) F o r m u l a CP 1 1 9 4
W/O
L i a h t Moi s t u r i z i n q Cream 90% I n t e r n a l P h a s e
Ingredients: A ) A r l a c e l P - 1 3 5 , PEG-30 D i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e A r l a m o l S7, C y c l o r n e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) PPG-15 s t e a r y l e t h e r A r l a m o l HD; I s o h e x a d e c a n e
B ) A t l a s G-2330, S o r b e t h - 3 0 MgS04-7H20, M a g n e s i u m s u l f a t e Water Preservative
C)
Perfume
1.o 3.0 6.0
4.5 0.8 84.7 q.s. q.s.
Procedure: H e a t ( A ) a n d ( B ) t o 75C t o 85C. S l o w l y a d d ( B ) t o ( A ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Homogenize t h o r o u g h l y f o r 1 m i n u t e . A l l o w t o c o o l t o < 3 5 C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add p e r f u m e . Comments: V i s c o s i t y : 1 1 1 , 5 4 0 ( a f t e r 1 m o n t h ) mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d L.VT/spindle E/rpm 1 . 5 ) F o r m u l a CP 1192 SOURCE:
I C I S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Section VI Hair Care Products
169
7 70
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Aerosol Fine Fraqrance Mousse This formula provides a quick breaking foam which elegantly delivers fragrance with a dry talc-like after feel due to the emolliency of Veslan Pa-3 liquid. Cartaretin F-4 provides hair and skin substantivity while Sandoxylate SX-424 contributes fragrance solubilization and fast breaking foam. Inqredients: Wt% Phase A: Sandoxylate SX-424 1.00 Fragrance 1.00 Phase B: Deionized Water 81.10 5.00 Velsan Pa-3 liquid SD-40-2 Alcohol 11.20 Phase C: Cartaretin F-4 0.50 Dimethicone Copolyol 0.20 Procedure: Pre-mix Phase A. In a separate vessel, add ingredients of Phase B, mixing well after each addition. Add Phase A, mix and add Phase C. Adjust pH=7.0 with Citric Acid. Fill cans and charge with propellant. Typical Ratio: Propellant A-46: 4.0% Concentrate: 96.0 Appearance: Clear liquid PH: 7-8 Ref.: CLll-31-1 & CMP-07 Men's Finishing Fraqrance Mousse This formula provides a quick-breaking foam which elegantly delivers fragrance and nice after feel due to the emolliency of Velsan Pa-3 liquid. Cartaretin F-4 provides hair and skin substantivity while Sandoxylate SX-424 contributes fragrance solubilization and fast breaking foam. wt% Inqredients: Phase A: Sandoxylate SX-424 1.00 Fragrance 1.00 Phase B: Deionized Water 81.10 Velsan Pa-3 liquid 5.00 SD-40-2 Alcohol 11.20 Phase C: Cartaretin F-4 0.50 Dimethicone Copolyol 0.20 Procedure: Pre-mix Phase A. In a separate vessel, add ingredients of Phase B, mixing well after each addition. Add Phase A, mix and add Phase C. Adjust pH=7.0 with Citric acid. Fill cans and charge with propellant. Typical Ratio: Propellant A-46: 4.0% Concentrate: 96.0% Appearance: Clear liquid PH: 7-8 Ref: Ctll-31-1 & CMP-08 SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Suggested Formulations
Hair Care Products
171
Aerosol Fragrance Mousse This formula provides a quick breaking foam which elegantly delivers fragrance and a nice after feel due to the emolliency of Velsan P8-3 liquid. Cartaretin F-4 provides hair and skin substantivity while Sandoxylate 8x3-424 contributes fragrance solubilization and fast breaking foam. CL9-201: Inqredients: Phase A: Sandoxylate SX-424 Fragrance Phase B: Deionized Water Velsan P8-3 liquid SD-40-2 Alcohol Dimethicone Copolyol Phase C: Cartaretin F-4
Wt$
0.60 0.20 85.00 0.60 11.20 0.20 2.20
Procedure: Pre-mix Phase A. In a separate vessel, add ingredients of Phase B, mixing well after each addition. Add Phase A, mix and add Phase C. Adjust pH-7.0 with Citric acid. Fill cans and charge with propellant. Typical Ratio: Propellant A-46: 4.0% Concentrate 96.0% CL9-267: Inuredients: Phase A: Sandoxylate SX-424 Fragrance Phase B: Deionized Water Velsan P8-3 liquid SD-40-2 Alcohol Dimethicone Copolyol
Wt$
0.60 0.20 85.30 2.50 11.20 0.20
Procedure: Pre-mix Phase A. In a separate vessel, add ingredients of Phase B, mixing well after each addition. Add Phase A, mix and add Phase C. Adjust pH-7.0 with Citric acid. Fill cans and charge with propellent. Typical Ratio: Propellant A-46: 10.0% 90.0% Concentrate: SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Ref. CMP-O4/Ref. CL9-201, 267
7 72
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Blow-Dry Stylins Lotion This clear, water white, pump spray provides excellent curl retention and body. Diaformer Z-SM produces a clear, flexible film on the hair. Sandoxylate SX-424 functions as a fragrance solubilizer and Sandopan LS-24 is an excellent hydrotrope.
Wt% Inqredients: Diaformer Z-SM (Methylacrylol Ethyl Betaine/Methacrylates Copolymer) 2.00 80.00 Deionized Water Dow Corning 193 (Dimethicone Copolyol) 0.20 SD 40 Alcohol 17.00 Sandopan LS-24 gel (Sodium Laureth-13 Carboxylate) 0.20 Sandoxylate SX-424 (PPG-2 Isodeceth-12) 0.40 Fragrance and Preservative qs Procedure: Add water to vessel. With mixing, add Dow Corning 193, SD 40 Alcohol, Diaformer Z-SM and Sandopan LS-24 in order. Mix well after each addition. Premix Sandoxylate SX-424 and fragrance. Add to batch with mixing. Add preservative with mixing. Appearance: Clear, water white liquid Formula CHF-lO/REF: CL24-95 Water Based Pump Hair Spray Diahold A-503 requires no neutralization in formulation and its high water compatibility allows formulation of low VOC hair sprays. This water based hair spray uses Diahold A-503 to provide a clear glossy film and a strong hold. Inqredients: Diahold A-503 (AMP-Acrylates Copolymer) Deionized Water Dow Corning 190 (Dimethicone Copolyol) Lauramide DEA Glycerine Propylene Glycol Fragrance and Preservative
Wt%
7.00 91.50 0.30 0.30 0.20 0.40 qs
Procedure: Add water to vessel. With mixing, add Dow Corning 190, Lauramide DEA, Diahold A-503, Glycerine, and Propylene Glycol in order. Mix well after each addition. Add Fragrance and Preservative with mixing. Properties: pH: 6.5-7.0 Appearance: Clear, water white liquid Formula CHF-ll/REF: CL24-74 SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Suggested Formulations
Hair Care Products
173
C l a r i f y i n g and V o l u m i z i n g H a i r Mask Formul a P r o f i1 e : T h i s mask f o r m u l a t i o n i s f o r a l l h a i r t y p e s and t a k e s advant a g e o f t h e a b s o r b i n g and c l e a n s i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f B e n t o n i t e The e x t r a f i n e g r i n d o f Veegum F i s a m e c h a n i c a l v o l u m i z i n g a i d i n h a i r masks. T h i s f o r m u l a c o n t a i n s g l y c e r i n t h a t w i l l i m p r o v e r e s i d u a l f e e l and i m p r o v e t h e s h i n e o f h a i r . The s u r f a c t a n t a i d s i n t h e r i n s a b i l i t y o f t h e d r i e d mask. Ingredients: A : Water Veegum F (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e ) B:
C:
Glycerin Vanclay ( K a o l i n ) T a l c ( C o s m e t i c Grade) Vanseal NALS-30 (Sodium L a u r o y l S a r c o s i n a t e ) Preservative
WtQh 47.8 7.0 5.0
30.0 5.0
5.0 qs
D: Fragrance
qs
E : Triethanolamine C i t r i c Acid
A d j u s t pH t o 6.Ot-0.5
0.2 qs
Procedure: S t e p 1 : S i f t Veegum F i n t o an e s t a b l i s h e d v o r t e x i n w a t e r . Veegum F w i l l need a p p r o x i m a t e l y 60 m i n u t e s f o r h y d r a t i o n u s i n g a homogenizer o r up t o 180 m i n u t e s u s i n g a p r o p t y p e m i x e r . A d d i t i o n a l e n e r g y , such a s an i n c r e a s e i n m i x i n g i n t e n s i t y o r w a t e r temperature, w i 1 1 reduce h y d r a t i o n t i m e . The a d d i t i o n o f any o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s d u r i n g t h e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s w i l l i n t e r f e r e w i t h t h e h y d r a t i o n o f Veegum F and w i l l r e d u c e o r even e l i m i n a t e t h e d e s i r e d p r o p e r t i e s g e n e r a t e d b y t h e Magnesi um A 1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e . S t e p 2 : Add r e m a i n i n g w a t e r phase i n g r e d i e n t s l i s t e d i n P a r t 6 . S t e p 3 : Add P a r t C - P r e s e r v a t i v e . S t e p 4 : Add P a r t D - F r a g r a n c e . S t e p 5 : A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 w i t h p a r t E . P r o d u c t S p e c i f i c a t i ons : V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d L V T D V I I S p i n d l e #TF I3 0 . 3 RPM: 1,000,OOOt100,000 cps pH: 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 T h i s f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s a s t a b l e e m u l s i o n t h a t passes 3 month s t a b i l i t y t e s t i n g a t RT, 5 C , 38C, 5 0 C and 3 c y c l e F/T
SOURCE:
R.T.
Vanderbilt Co.,
I n c . : F o r m u l a No. 4 7 3
7 74
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Clear Conditioning Hair F l u j i ( T h i s i s a moderate v i s c o s i t y f l u i d )
Ingredi.ents:.
W_to/,
Phase A : Dimethicone Copolyol (and) Cyclomethicone (Abi EM 9 7 ) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l B 8839) Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV-20) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Q u a t 3272) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) D i m e t h i c o n o l ( a n d ) Dimeth cone ( A b i l OSW 1 2 ) Fragrance Phase B : Water Preservatives Propylene Glycol H e x y l ene G l y c o l Glycerin Sodium C h l o r i d e
2.15 15.20 2.15 1.10 5.40
Q.S. 27.50
Q.S. 38.50 4.00 3.00 1.oo
Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o g e t h e r . D e t e r m i n e t h e r e f r a c t i ve i n d e x . 2 . D i s s o l v e t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e s and Sodium C h l o r i d e i n t o t h e w a t e r o f Phase B. 3 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s t o Phase B . D e t e r m i n e t h e refractive index. 4 . Match t h e r e f r a c t i v e i n d e x o f Phase B t o Phase A u s i n g w a t e r o r p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l , d e p e n d i n g on t h e d i r e c t i o n needed. 5 . Add Phase B s l o w l y t o Phase A w h i l e h o m o g e n i z i n g . ( A v o i d a i r entrapment).
SOURCE:
G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
I\n.t.-ida.ndruff-!ai~r..Toni.c
L_n_SLred.~..ent x
O c t o p i r o x ( P i r o c t o n e 01 ami n e ) Ethyl alcohol C: Fragrance Emulsogen E L (PEG-36 C a s t o r O i l ) D : Water Genami n K S L (PEG-5 S t e a r y l Ammoni urn L a c t a t e ) D-Panthenol E: C i t r i c a c i d - - - - - > p H 5 . 0 - 6 . 0
A: B:
Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e A i n B. 3. S t i r m i x t u r e D i n t o 2 .
wt.?!Q
0.10 35.00 0.30 0.60 63.20 0.30 0.50 q.s.
2 . S t i r 1 i n t o mixture C. 4. F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e pH w i t h E .
SOURCE: Hoechst A k t i e n g e s e l l s c h a f t : F o r m u l a B III/3006
Ha/r Care Products
775
C l e a r C o n d i t i o n j n g Hair_.Gel -~ I n g r e d ie n t s;
Wt%
Phase A : 2.00 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l EM 9 7 ) 14.00 Cyclomethicone ( A b i l B 8839) 2.20 P h e n y l T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 AV-20) 0.80 Q u a t e r n i u m - 8 0 ( A b i 1 Quat 3272) Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol (and) Dimethicone 5.00 ( A b i l OSW 1 2 ) Q.S. Fragrance Phase B : 28.20 Water Q.S. Preservatives 40.00 P r o p y l ene G 1 y c o l 4.00 Hexylene G l y c o l 3.00 Glycerin Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.80 Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o g e t h e r . D e t e r m i n e t h e r e f r a c t i v e index. 2 . D i s s o l v e t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e s and Sodium C h l o r i d e i n t o t h e w a t e r o f Phase B . 3 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s t o Phase B . D e t e r m i n e t h e r e f r a c t i v e index. 4 . M a t c h t h e r e f r a c t i v e i n d e x o f Phase B t o Phase A u s i n g w a t e r o r p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l , d e p e n d i n g on t h e d i r e c t i o n needed. 5 . Add Phase B s l o w l y t o Phase A w h i l e h o m o g e n i z i n g . ( A v o i d a i r entrapment). SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s Cream R i n s e Raw M a t e r i a l s : A : Genamin EQ H o s t a c e r i n T-3 (Ceteareth-3) Cetyl dlcohol Jojoba o i l B: W a t e r Panthenol P r e s e r v a t i ve C: Fragrance Dyestuff solution D: C i t r i c acid----->pH 4.0 Procedure: 1 . M e l t A a t 75C. 2 . H e a t B t o 75C. 2. S t i r 2 i n t o 1. 4. S t i r u n t i l c o o l . 5 . A t c a . 40C a d d t h e c o m p o n e n t s o f C t o 4 . 6 . F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e pH w i t h D. SOURCE: H o e c h s t A k t i e n e s e l l s c h a f t :
Formula B
II/1061
WtOh 2.00 1 .oo 1 .50 1 .50 93.20 0.50 9,s. 0.30 q.s. 9,s.
I76
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
C l e a r E x t r a C o n d i t i o n i n g H a i r Gel Wt% Ingredients: Phase A : 2.00 D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 EM 9 7 ) 17.00 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 B 8839) 2.50 P h enyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i 1 AV-20) 1 .50 Q u a t e r n i um-80 ( A b i l Q u a t 3 2 7 2 ) Cyclomethicone (and) Dirnethiconol (and) Dimethicone 6.50 ( A b i l OSW 1 2 ) 0.50 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) Q.S. Fragrance Phase B : 31 . O O Water Q.S. Preservatives 31 . O O P r o p y l ene G1y c o l 4.00 Hexylene G l y c o l 3.00 Glycerin 1 .oo Sodium C h l o r i d e Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o g e t h e r . D e t e r m i n e t h e r e f r a c t i v e index. 2 . D i s s o l v e t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e s and Sodium C h l o r i d e i n t o t h e w a t e r o f Phase 5 . 3 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s t o P h a s e B . D e t e r m i n e t h e r e f r a c t i v e in d e x . 4 . M a t c h t h e r e f r a c t i v e i n d e x o f Phase B t o Phase A u s i n g w a t e r o r p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l , depending on t h e d i r e c t i o n needed. 5 . Add P h a s e B s l o w l y t o P h a s e A w l i i l e h o m o g e n i z i n g . ( A v o i d a i r entrapment). SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a
Cream R i n s e Raw M a t e r i a l s . : A : Genamin STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i u r n C h l o r i d e ) H o s t a c e r i n DGS ( P o l y g l y c e r y l - 2 PEG-4 S t e a r a t e ) Cetyl stearyl alcohol Mineral oi 1, high viscosity 8: Water Preservative C: Fragrance D y e s t u f f s o l u t i on D : C i t r i c acid----->pH 4.0 1 . M e l t A a t c a . 75C. 2 . H e a t B t o c a . 75C. 3. S t i r 2 into 1. 4. S t i r unti 1 cool. 5 . A t c a . 35C a d d t h e c o m p o n e n t s o f C t o 4 . 6 . F i n a l l y a d j u s t t h e pH w i t h D .
SOURCE:
Hoechst A k t i e n g e s e l l s c h a f t :
F o r m u l a B II/1057
w t ?h 2.50 2,oo 3.20 1 .oo 91 . o c q.s. 0.30 9,s. Q.S.
Hair Care Products
177
Cl.earG.el ~ . A . GiLE&Q.Ef t c O_Cs!!Li ene_r_ T h i s i s a c l e a r r i n s i n g c u r l a c t i v a t o r used t o b r i n g o u t t h e n a t u r a l c u r l of t h e h a i r . I t a l s o c o n t a i n s h u m e c t a n t s , d e t a c k i f i e r s and c o n d i t i o n e r s . I ngyed1-e n_t
s: Phase A : Water Carbomer 940 Triethanolamine
57.65 0.50 2.25
Phase B: G1 y c e r i n Propylene Glycol D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 8851) Q u a t e r n i u m - 8 0 ( A b i l Quat 3 2 7 2 )
32.20 5.00 1 .oo 1.oo 0.40
WtO%
Phase C : Color, Fragrance, Preservative
Q.S
Procedure: D i s p e r s e t h e Carbomer i n t o t h e w a t e r and m i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y c l e a r . Add t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and m i x w e l l . M i x Phase B and add s l o w l y t o Phase A w h i l e m i x i n g . Add Phase C w i t h m i x i n g . E t h n i c H a i r Care Extra Conditioning Conditioner I n g c e d i e-nts: Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol (and) Dimethicone ( A b i 1 OSW 12) Cyclomethicone Isohexadecane o r M i n e r a l O i l O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) Octyl Stearate (Tegosoft 0 s ) Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l A V 2 0 ) Q u a t e r n i u m - 8 0 ( A b i l Quat 3474) Procedure: Combine a l l
SOURCE:
ingredients i n order with mixing.
G o l d s c h r n i d t Chemical C o r p . :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Wt%
50.0 30.5 8.0 3.0 3.0 5.0 0.5
7 78
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Clear Silicone Hair Gel
Wt%
Inqredients: Oil Phase: Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol (Abil EM-90) Cyclomethicone Isopropyl Myristate (Tegosoft M) Cetyl Dimethicone (Abil Wax 9801) Dimethicone (50 cs) Water Phase: Water Propylene Glycol Sodium Chloride Preservatives
1.60 7.20 3.60 1.80 1.80 39 .OO 42.50 2.50 Q.S.
Procedure: 1. Mix the ingredients of the oil phase and the water phase separately at room temperature. 2. Measure the refractive indices of each phase. These must be identical to achieve optimum clarity. If necessary, adjust the refractive index of the water phase with additional propylene glycol. 3. Add the water phase to the oil phase slowly with strong sheer. Mix until water phase is fully dispersed. SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggested Formulation Cream Rinse Raw Materials: A: Genamin K S L (PEG-5 Stearyl Ammonium Lactate) Hostaphat K L 340 N (Trilaureth-4 Phosphate) Cetylstearyl alcohol Mineral oil, high viscosity
B: Water Preservative C: Fragrance Dyestuff solution
D: Citric acid-----> pH 4.0 Procedure: 1. Melt A at ca. 75C. 2. Heat B to ca. 75C. 3. Stir 2 into 1. 4. Stir until cool. 5. At ca. 35C add the components of C to 4. 6. Finally adjust the pH with D. SOURCE: Hoechst Aktiengesellschaft: Formula B II/1049
Wt%:
6.00 1.50 3.80 2.00
86.40 q.s.
0.30 q.s. q.s
Hair Care Products
179
Creme- R i n s e
wt./,
Ingredients : Water Hydroxyethyl Cellulose Glycol D i stearate Cetyl Alcohol Monaquat TG Phosphol 1 p i d EFA M o n a s i l PDM Oleic Acid
86.80 0.70 2.00 2.50 6.70 0.30 0.96 0.04
Procedure: Charge w a t e r , c a r e f u l l y add N a t r o s o l 2 5 0 HHR w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Heat t o 50-60C and add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and c o n t i n u e h e a t i n g t o 70C. Cool t o 45C and a d j u s t pH t o 4 . 5 - 5 . 0 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . Add c o l o r , f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e s a s r e q u i r e d . C o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n and c o o l i n g u n t i l p e a r l d e v e l o p s . Formulation Properties: P H y s i c a l Appearance: W h i t e p e a r l e d l o t i o n F o r m u l a t i o n F-703 C l e a r -Gej
H a i r C o n d i t i o n i n g Rinse
w t 56
I n s r e d 1 en t s : Water Monafax MAP-230 M o n a t e r i c LMAB Monaquat I S I E S
87.90 4.10 7.15 0.85
Procedure: B l e n d i n o r d e r l i s t e d a t room t e m p e r a t u r e , a d j u s t t o pH 7 , add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , p r e s e r v a t i v e , and package. Appearance: C l e a r v i s c o u s l i q u i d F o r m u l a t i o n F-680 Ha? _r Condi t i qn3-r
Innr%d?.e_n_f
s_:
0.5% H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n water Cetyl Alcohol M o n a s i l PLN
Wt% 93.0
3.0 4.0
V i s c o s i t y : 2 0 0 0 cps Opaque V i scous L i q u i d Procedure: H y d r a t e HEC i n w a t e r , t h e n add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h s u f f i c i e n t h e a t t o m e l t c e t y l a l c o h o l . Add f r a g r a n c e , p r e s e r v a t i v e , and t h e n package. Formul a t ion F-684
SOURCE:
Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
780
Cosmebc and Todetry Formulabom
Creme R i n s e Inqredi ent_s Water Hydroxyethyl Cellulose G1 y c o l D i s t e a r a t e Cetyl Alcohol Monaquat S L - 5 Phosphol 1 p i d EFA M o n a s i l PDM Oleic Acid
Wt% 86.80 0.70 2.00 2.50 6.70 0.30 0.96 0.04
Procedure: Charge w a t e r , c a r e f u l l y add N a t r o s o l 2 5 0 HHR w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Heat t o 5 0 - 6 0 C and add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and c o n t i n u e h e a t i n g t o 70C. Cool t o 45C and a d j u s t pH t o 4 . 5 - 5 . 0 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . Add c o l o r , f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d . C o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n and c o o l i n g u n t i l p e a r l d e v e l o p s . P h y s i c a l Appearance: W h i t e p e a r l e d l o t i o n F o r m u l a t i o n F-708
Hair_
Rel-aax-er
Ingredients.:
Wt%
Part A: Phosphol i p l d S V Propylene Glycol 45% KOH Water
3.0 3.0 5.0 50.0
P a r t 8: Cetyl Alcohol Monafax MAP 160 Petrolatum Mineral O i l M o n a s i l PCA
4.0 3.0 20.0 10.0 2.0
Procedure: Heat A & B s e p a r a t e l y t o 65C. S l o w l y add B t o A w i t h homogeni z a t i o n a n d c o n t i n u e b l e n d i n g f o r an a p p r o p r i a t e t i m e . S t i r c o o l t o 40-45C, add f r a g r a n c e and p a c k a g e . T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i es : V i s c o s i t y : 400,000 CP pH: 13 F o r m u l a t i o n F-706
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,
Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products
181
Creme Rinse Inqredient: Water Hydroxyethyl Cellulose Glycol Distearate Cetyl Alcohol Monaquat TG Phospholipid EFA Monasil PDM Oleic Acid
ky& 86.75 0.70 2.00 2.50 6.70 0.30 1.00 0.05
Procedure: Charge water, carefully add Natrosol 250 HHR with good agitation. Heat to 50-60C and add remaining ingredients and continue heating to 70C. Cool to 45C and adjust pH to 4.5-5.0 with 50% citric acid. Add color, fragrance and preservative as required. Continue agitation and cooling until pearl develops. Formulation Properties: Physical Appearance: Pearlescent pearled lotion Monasil PCA Hair Relaxer
wt%
Inqredients: Part A: Phospholipid SV Propylene Glycol 45% KOH Water
3.0 3.0 5.0 50.0
Part B: Cetyl Alcohol Monafax MAP 160 Petrolatum Mineral Oil Monasil PCA
4.0 3.0 20.0 10.0 2.0
Procedure: Heat A & B separately to 65C. Slowly add B to A with homogenization and continue blending for an appropriate time. Stir cool to 40-45C, add fragrance and package. Typical Properties: Viscosity: 400,000 cP/pH: 13 SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Suggested Formulations
782
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
E t h n i c .H . a i r Care -. A m p h o t e r i c Shampoos (Cold Process) C1 e a r 1.n.g r edienLs:. T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Water Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e PEG-I8 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e ( A n t i 1 171) D i m e t h i c o n e P r o p y l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l B 9 9 5 0 ) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l P u a t 3272) D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L ) Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F ) C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l u t i o n ) Fragrance Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y )
VitA 0.1 51 , 1 20.0 2.0 0.5 0.3 0.5 0.5 25.0 t o pH 6
Q.S. Q.S.
Procedure: 1 . Mix i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . 2 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e .
Pearl-ed
1 nsred l.ents:_ T e t r a s o d i urn EDTA Water Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e PEG-18 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e / C o c o a t e ( A n t i 1 171) D i m e t h i c o n e P r o p y l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l B 9 9 5 0 ) Q u a t e r n i u m - 8 0 ( A b i l Quat 3272) D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L ) Cocamidopropyl B e t a i ne (Tego B e t a i ne F ) C i t r i c A c i d (2590 S o l u t i o n ) Fragrance G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r e t h - 4 (Tego P e a r l N 1 0 0 ) Sodium C h l o r i d e ( 2 5 % S o l u t i o n t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y )
Wt%
0.1 48.1 20.0 2.0 0.5 0.3 0.5 0.5 25.0 t o pH 6
Procedure: 1 . Mix i n g r e d i e n t s i n order. 2 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e .
SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Q.S. 3.0
Q.S.
Hair Care Products
183
Ethnic Hair Glosser/Extra Conditionins T h i s w a t e r - i n - o i l f o r m u l a based on a s i l i c o n e p o l y m e r i c e m u l s i f i e r i s d e s i g n e d f o r use as a l e a v e i n c o n d i t i o n e r t o g i v e g l o s s and body e s p e c i a l l y f o r h a i r w h i c h has been chemi c a l l y treated. Inqredie n t s l Phase A : O i l Phase: Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol ( A b i l EM-90) Petrolatum Mineral O i l C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) I s o p r o p y l Palmi t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P ) Lanolin O i l Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l A V 2 0 ) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3474) Phase B: Fragrance
Wt%
~
2 .o 6.0 10.0 2.0 3.5 3.0 3.0 2.0 0.5
Q.S.
Phase C : Water Phase: Water Sodium C h l o r i d e G1 y c e r i n P r e s e r v a t ives
64.3 0.7 3.0 Q.S.
Procedure: 1 . B l e n d t h e components o f Phase A t o g e t h e r - - h e a t i n g t o 50C. Mix u n t i l f u l l y dispersed. 2 . Cool t o 40-45C w i t h a g i t a t i o n - add f r a g r a n c e . 3 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , m i x t h e components t o Phase C t o g e t h e r . 4 . Add Phase C t o Phase A / B s l o w l y w i t h s l o w l i g h t n i n g m i x . M i x u n t i l a l l w a t e r i s i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h e o i l phase. 5 . Homogeni z e . E t h n i c Pump S p r a v C o n d i t i o n e r Ingredients: Water Propylene Glycol G1 y c e r i n D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 88183) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) Panthenol Tocopherol A c e t a t e ( V i t a m i n E ) P r e s e r v a t i ves Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g .
SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Wt% 82.2 7.5 7.5 2.0 0.5 0.2 0.1
Q.S.
184
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
H a i r Brushing L o t i o n Raw M a t e r i a l s : A: Amihope LL POE ( 2 0 ) s o r b i t a n m o n o l a u r a t e P y r o t e r GPI-25 Propylene g l y c o l B: Stearyl alcohol C a r b o p o l 941 ( 0 . 5 w t % s o l u t i o n ) Water Preservatives
Wt% 0.5 1.5 1. o 2.0 0.5 15.0 balance 0.2 0.2 5.0
C: Prodew 100 o r 2 0 0 Ethanol
Procedure: M i x ( A ) i n g r e d i e n t s and add (6) t o ( A ) . Heat up t o 70-80C w i t h s t i r r i n g . Cool down t.he m i x t u r e t o 50C and add ( C ) , t h e n c o o l down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . NOTE: N o n - c a t i o n i c a n t i s t a t i c f o r m u l a t i o n . Smooth combing o b t a i n e d d u e t o t h e l u b r i c i t y o f Amihope LL. Formul a BR-02 Hai r L o t i o n _____ Raw M a t e r i a l s : G l y c e r e t h - 2 5 PCA I s o s t e a r a t e ( P y r o t e r GPI-25) PEG-40 H y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l PCA I s o s t e a r a t e ( P y r o t e r CPI-40) Octyldodecanol
A:
1.2 3.5 0.1 1.5 5.0 9.s. balance
B: Prodew 400 1 ,3-Butylene g l y c o l Methyl paraben Water C:
Wt%
10.6 0.6 q.s.
Ethanol Carboxymethyl c e l l u l o s e Perfume
Procedure: M i x a l l i n g r e d i e n t s ( A ) and ( B ) a t 60-70C w i t h s t i r r i n g r e s p e c t i v e l y . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add Carboxymethyl c e l l u l o s e and c o o l t o 40C. Add e t h a n o l and p e r f u m e and c o o l w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 30C. f o r m u l a HLP-141
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A . ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products
185
H - ~ i ~ ~ ~ n . d _ i t l . . ~ ~ ~ . . _ ~ ~ t ~ - o - ~ T h i s l o t i o n i s t y p i c a l o f a modern r i n s e - o f f f o r m u l a b u t has e x c e l l e n t freeze-thaw s t a b i l i t y . Ingredients: A B r i j 721 Cetyl alcohol Stearyl alcohol S t e a r a l konium c h l o r i d e 8 Water,
deionized
0.6 0.5 96.7
P r e p a r a t ion : Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Cool w h i l e a g i t a t i n g t o 40C. R e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n and package. F o r m u l a HC-10
Haj-i_r_ Co.~dit-ign e r -Ge 1 D e m o n s t r a t e s t h e use o f F o r e s t a l l i n a s u r f a c t a n t g e l w h i c h w o u l d be a good h a i r d r e s s i n g . The f o r m u l a i s a c l e a r ( m i c r o emulsion), " r i n g i n g " g e l . I_nar ed Le-nL s_ : A Mineral o i l A r l a s o l v e 200L I s o c e t e t h - 2 0 E r i ] 93 O l e t h - 2
W t% 11 . o 27.8 6.0
B Water Propylene g l y c o l Sorbitol Solution, Forestal 1
41 . 8 5.0 7.0 1.4
USP
Preparation : Heat ( A ) and ( 8 ) t o 9OC. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Cool t o 8OC and add make-up w a t e r . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m and p o u r while s t i l l f l u i d . F o r m u l a HC-11
SOURCE:
ICI
S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
186
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Dressinq W/O Cold Process Inqredients: Wt% Phase A: Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol (Abil EM-90) 2.0 Mineral Oil 7.3 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (Tegosoft CT) 3.0 Cetyl Dimethicone (Abil Wax 9801) 1.0 Cyclomethicone 5.0 Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan GI 34) 1.0 Cetearyl Isononanoate (Tegosoft CI) 1.5 Cetyl Octanoate (Tegosoft CO) 0.8 Quaternium-80 (Abil Quat 3272) 0.5 Fragrance Q.S. Phase B: Water 72.9 Propylene Glycol 3.0 Glycerin 1.2 Sodium Chloride 0.8 Preservatives Q.S. Procedure: 1. Mix the ingredients of Phase A together. 2. Dissolve the Sodium Chloride into the water. Add the Glycerin and Propylene Glycol. Mix until clear. 3 . Add the preservatives. 4 . Add Phase B to Phase A slowly with soft propeller mixing. Maintain, at all times, a creamy appearance. 5. Homogenize. Ethnic Hair Care Leave-In Moisturizinq/Sheen Inqredients: Wt% Phase A: 0.1 Tetrasodium EDTA 77.9 Water 2.0 Oleth-20 3.0 Dimethicone Copolyol (Abil B 88183) Quaternium-80 (Abil Quat 3272) 0.5 Glycerin 15.0 Phase B: PEG-30 Glyceryl Laurate (Tagat L) 1.5 Fragrance Q.S. Preservative Q.S. Procedure: 1. Add the water, Oleth-20, heat to 40C. Mix until clear. 2. Add the remaining ingredients of Phase A mixing each until clear. 3 . Add the fragrance to the Tagat L. Mix well - add to Phase A. 4. Cool with mixing - add preservatives. SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggeeted Formulation8
Hair Care Products
187
H a i r Relaxers These f o r m u l a t i o n s f o r a h a i r r e l a x e r g i v e a s t a b l e composit i o n w i t h a v e r y d e s i r a b l e c o n s i s t e n c y . They can be e a s i l y worked t h r o u g h t h e h a i r and w i l l r e m a i n u n t i l r e a c t e d . The p r o d u c t s are extremely m i l d w i t h minimal s k i n i r r i t a t i o n . H a i r R e l a x e r D-51 ~
Part: A
6
Wt% 23.0 14.0 5.5 0.1 5.5
_ I n. gredient/Trade
Name.; P e t r o l a t u m (USP) Mineral O i l Cetearyl Alcohol T e t r a s o d i u m E D T A , 40% Propylene Glycol Sodium C12-Cl5 P a r e t h - 1 5 S u l f o n a t e / Avanel S-150 CGN PEG 6 0 L a n o l i n Sodium H y d r o x i d e , 50% H y d r o l i zed Animal P r o t e i n / L e x e i n QX 300 Perfume Dei o n i zed Water
3.65 0.25 4.1 0.25 0.1 43.55
2 5 : H a i r Relaxer D
-_ Part: A
B
I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: P e t r o l a t u m (USP) Mineral O i l Cetearyl Alcohol T e t r a s o d i um E D T A , 40% P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l Sodium C12-Cl5 P a r e t h - 3 S u l f o n a t e / A v a n e l PEG 60 L a n o l i n Sodi um H y d r o x i d e , 50% H y d r o l ized Animal P r o t e i n / L e x e i n QX 3 0 0 Perfume D e i o n i z e d Water
S-30
W t l 23.0 14.0 5.5 0.05 5.5 3.65 0.25 4.1 0.25 0.1 43.55
Procedure: Heat t h e p e t r o l a t u m t o 80C and add t h e m i n e r a l o i l . C o n t i n u e h e a t i n g w i t h s l o w a g i t a t i o n . When t h e p e t r o l a t u m i s c o m p l e t e l y m e l t e d , add t h e c e t e a r y l a l c o h o l . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 80C and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g . To t h e d e i o n i z e d w a t e r , add t h e t e t r a sodium EDTA, p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l , Avanel s-150 CGN o r 5-30 and PEG 60 l a n o l i n w i t h m i x i n g . H e a t t o E O C . W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t A t o P a r t B. S t i r f o r 15 m i n u t e s . Cool t o 40C. Add t h e sodium h y d r o x i d e , a n i m a l p r o t e i n and p e r f u m e . (NOTE: A t t h i s s t a g e , t h e f o r m u l a i s s e p a r a t e d and r e s e m b l e s c o t t a g e c h e e s e . T h i s will b e c o r r e c t e d as t h e b a t c h i s f i n i s h e d . ) M i x t h e b a t c h w h i l e c o o l i n g t o a t e m p e r a t u r e o f a b o u t 20C u s i n g an e x t e r n a l i c e b a t h . The s i d e s o f t h e v e s s e l must b e f r e e d o f p r o d u c t while mixing.
SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s D-51 and D-52
188
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair and Scalp Conditioner This conditioner leaves the hair with a shine and softness, while providing the moisturization needed by both the hair and scalp. Sequence: 1 2 2
3 3 3
4 4 4 4
4 4 4 4
Raw Material/INCI Name: Deionized Water
wt%
58.70
Keltrol/Xanthan Gum Veegum/Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
0.15 0.15
Uniphen P-23 Lipamide MEAA (75%)/Acetamide MEA Liponic EG-l/Glycereth-26
0.50 1.00 1.00
Ultrapure L/White Petrolatum USP Avocado Oil Lip0 GMS 450/Glyceryl Stearate Lipopeg 6000 DS/PEG-150 Distearate Lipowax P/Emulsifying Wax, NF Lipocol C/Cetyl Alcohol Lipolan R/Lanolin Oil Lipovol MOS-70*
8.00 12.00 1.50 1.00 0.50 0.50 5.00 10.00
*Patent #4,659,573 Procedure: 1. Mix Sequence #1 on overhead mixer while heating to 78C. 2. Dry mix Sequence # 2 ingredients and add slowly to Sequence #1 at 78C with medium agitation. Mix until completely hydrated. 3. Add Sequence #3 to batch in order of addition, while holding temperature at 78C. 4. Mix Sequence #4 together while heating to 8OC until completely melted and add to batch at medium speed. Cool to 60C. 5. At 60C, switch to sweep blade and mix at low speed. Cool to 25C. Specifications: pH: 6.33+-0.2 Viscosity: LVT-F @ 1.5 rpm=185,00 cps +-lo% SOURCE: Lip0 Chemicals Inc.: Formulation No. 1016
Hair Care Products
189
H a i r S t y l i n g Cream w i t h N a t u r a l O i l s & C o n d i t i o n e r s T h i s s t y l i n g cream c o n t a i n s n a t u r a l o i l s t o p r o v i d e m o i s t u r i z a t i o n and s h i n e . T h i s l i g h t e m u l s i o n can be used t o s t y l e and d e f i n e h a i r w i t h o u t l e a v i n g a heavy g r e a s y f e e l . T h i s f o r m u l a also contains cationic conditioners t o provide excellent s t a t i c c o n t r o l and f e e l , and a s u n s c r e e n t o h e l p p r o t e c t t h e h a i r f r o m UV damage. I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Wt% Part A: 1 . Meadowfoam Seed Oil/EmCon L i m n a t h e s A l b a 3.00 3.00 2 . A p r i c o t Kernel Oil/Super Refined A p r i c o t Kernel O i l 3 . Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 556 F l u i d 2,oo 4 . C12-15 A1 k y l B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v T N 2.00 5 . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e / C e r a s y n t SD 2.00 6 . O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Neo H e l i o p a n A V 4.00 7 . T o c o p h e r y l A c e t a t e / R a d i c a l Scavenger V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e 0 . 5 0 8 . Acrylates/C10-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e s Crosspolymer/ Pemulen TR-1 0.25 9 . Carbomer/Carbopol U l t r e z 1 0 0.15 Part 8: 1 0 . D e i o n i z e d Water 78 92 1 1 . P V P ( 1 0 0 % ) / L u v i s k o l K9O Powder 1.oo 13. T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (99%) 0.38 Part C: 14. PEG-20 Almond G l y c e r i d e s / C r o v o l A-40 0.20 1 5 . L i no1 eami d o p r o p y l P G - D i moni um Chl o r i de Phosphate/ Phosphol ip i d €FA 0.30 1 6 . Cocodimonium H y d r o x y l p r o p y l H y d r o l y z e d Wheat P r o t e i n / H y d r o t r i t i c u m PM 0.30 1 7 . F r u i t y F l o r a l F r a g r a n c e / F r a g r a n c e #A42017 1.oo 18. Propylene G l y c o l (and) Methylparaben (and) P r o p y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germaben I I E 1 .oo P r o p e r t i es : Appearance: T h i c k , g l o s s y , creamy e m u l s i o n pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) : 20,000-40,000 P r e p a r a t i o n Procedure: 1 . P a r t A : Combine a l l o i l phase i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t m i x t u r e t o 60-65C, m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . D i s p e r s e Pemulen TR-1 and C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 1 0 p o l y m e r s i n o i l p h a s e . M i x u n t i l powders a r e d i s p e r s e d we1 1 2 . P a r t 8 : D i s p e r s e PVP K-90 i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r (55-6OC). M i x u n t i l p o l y m e r i s h y d r a t e d . Add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e t o s o l u t i o n . 3 . Add P a r t A t o P a r t B . B o t h phases s h o u l d b e a t 55-6OC. M i x u n t i l no lumps r e m a i n and b a t c h i s u n i f o r m , m a i n t a i n i n g a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 55-6OC. 4 . P a r t C : Add C r o v o l A-40 t o b a t c h . NOTE: B a t c h may i n v e r t t o a w a t e r i n o i l e m u l s i o n ( b a t c h w i l l l o o k c u r d l e d ) . Keep m i x i n g and c o o l b a t c h t o 40-45C. Keep m i x i n g u n t i l b a t c h r e i n v e r t s t o an o i l - i n - w a t e r e m u l s i o n ( e x t r a s h e a r a g i t a t i o n may b e n e c e s s a r y i f t h e b a t c h has s t i l l n o t r e i n v e r t e d a t 40C) 5 . P a r t C : A f t e r t h e b a t c h has c o o l e d t o 40-45C and i n v e r s i o n i s c o m p l e t e , add r e m a i n i n g P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x t i 1 u n i f o r m . SOURCE: B . F . G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n PO048 I
I
790
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Stvlinq Gel Diaformer 2-301 provides excellent hold, clear films, and does not flake. This water white, clear formulation has good viscosity initially and over time. This formula can be easily removed from the hair by shampooing. Inqredients: Wt$ Deionized Water 95.75 Carbopol 941 (Carbomer 941) 0.40 Triethanolamine 99% 0.40 Diaformer 2-301 (Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine/Methacrylates Copolymer ) 3.35 Fragrance and Preservative qs Procedure: Add Carbopol 941 to water and mix until a homogeneous viscous liquid develops. Add Triethanolamine to neutralize the Carbopol 941. Mix well. Add Diaformer 2-301 and other ingredients one at a time mixing well after each additiion. Adjust pH as desired. Properties: Appearance: Water white, clear gel pH: 6.0 Viscosity: 12,500-13,000 cps Formula CHF-l6/REF: CL24-101 Hard Hold Hair SDray This hard hold hair spray uses Diaformer Z-AT for its excellent curl retention and hold. Diaformer Z-AT also helps to reduce static and improve manageability when the hair is combed. This formulation also meets 80% VOC requirements by incorporating almost 13% water. Inqredients: Diaformer Z-AT (Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine/Methacrylates Copolymer) Deionized Water Dow Corning 190 (Dimethicone Copolyol) SD 40 Alcohol Lauramide DEA Fragrance and Preservative
Wt$
17.50 12.70 0.10 69.50 0.10 qs
Procedure: Add Diaformer Z-AT to the alcohol mixing well. Add water with mixing. Add remaining ingredients one at a time with mixing. Appearance: Clear, slightly yellow liquid Formula CHF-l7/REF: CL27-35 SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Suggested Formulations
Hair Care Products
191
H a i r S t v l i n a Gel I l l u s t r a t e s a h a i r s t y l i n g g e l based on a Carbomer r e s i n and polyvinylpyrrolidone.
wts/o
Ingredients: A C a r b o m e r 940 S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n , USP SDA-40 E t h a n o l , 2 5 % aqueous
B A r l a s o l v e 200 L i q u i d / G e l W a t e r / d e n a t u r e d a l c o h o l , SDA F o r m u l a No. 40, Weight % m i x t u r e V i n y l p y r r o l id o n e / v i n y l a c e t a t e c o p o l y m e r Triethanolamine Perfume
0.33 2.00 72.85
0.40 75/25 23.07 1.oo 0.35 q.s.
P r e p a r a t i on : P a r t ( A ) : Mix S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n w i t h water/alcohol b l e n d . D i s p e r s e Carbomer 940 i n t h e S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n w a t e r / a l c o h o l b l e n d u s i n g h i g h speed p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . A l l o w t h e a i r bubbles t o d i sperse. P a r t ( 8 ) : Add t h e A r l a s o l v e 2 0 0 L i q u i d / G e l t o t h e perfume w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n . Add t h e w a t e r / a l c o h o l s o l u t i o n , PVP/VA, and t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e i n t h a t o r d e r , s t i r r i n g a f t e r each a d d i t i o n t o i n s u r e s o l u t i o n . Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) w i t h v e r y s l o w a g i t a t i o n . Caution! Ethanol i s very flammable! F o r m u l a HC-4
i..z-Lng--L.ot% Ne_u_f_r_a? A t y p i c a l bromate n e u t r a l i z i n g l o t i o n i s represented. o s i t y i s c o n t r o l l e d by b l e n d i n g s u r f a c t a n t s .
I_n_g.r-edi_e.!? tSl A Sodium b r o m a t e B r i j 30 L u r e t h - 4 p a l m i t i c amide Po 1y g 1y c o Water P r e s e r v a t ve
B A c e t i c ac d , g l a c i a l Preparation Add t h e odium b r o m a t e s o l v e d . Add t h e r e m a i n d e r continually u n t i l cooled t 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h (B). R e p l a c e Formula HC-18
SOURCE:
V sc-
Wto/, 2.0 4.5 4.5
79.0 q.s. q.s.
t o w a t e r . S t i r w i t h heat u n t i l d i so f ( A ) . Heat t o 7 0 - 7 5 C . A g i t a t e o room t e m p e r a t u r e . A d j u s t pH t o w a t e r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n . Package.
ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
792
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair Stvlinq Mousse Diaformer Z-SM provides hold as well as conditioning on the hair. Its natural looking hold is flexible and bouncy. Sandoxylate SX-424 acts as a fragrance solubilizer and Elfugin AKT 300 is a corrosion inhibitor. Wt"s Inqredients: Diaformer Z-SM (Methacrylol ethyl betaine/Methacrylates Copolymer) 4.00 Deionized Water 78.05 Dow Corning 193 (Dimethicone Copolyol) 0.25 SD 40 Alcohol 17.00 Sandoxylate SX-424 (PPG-2 Isodeceth-12) 0.45 Fragrance 0.10 Elfugin AKT liq 300 (Sodium C13-15 Pareth-8 Butyl Phosphate and Sodium C13-15 Pareth-9 Phosphate) 0.10 Preservative qs Procedure: Add water to vessel. With mixing, add Dow Corning 193, SD 40 Alcohol, and Diaformer Z-SM in order. Mix well after each addition. Premix Sandoxylate SX-424 and Fragrance and add to batch with mixing. Add Elfugin AKT and Preservative one at a time with mixing. Aerosolize in the ratio of 95% concentrate to 5% A-70 propellant. Notes : Clariant has worked with Seaquist Valve to develop recommendations for valves. Their recommended valve system for CHF-09 is as follows: Button: Long Skirt/Long Spout//Stem: 2x0.020", 0.333" stem length Gasket: Buna-N O.O42"/Cup: Alum. CC, Ep.Top/Bottom, Cut gasket Spring: 0.020'' SS Body: Tailless In addition, they also tested and found four specific gaskets to be compatible with this formulation. They are in the NS-20 series: Buna-N #lo0 and #102, Buna-P #150 and Butyl #501. CHF-Og/Ref: CL24-95 Crystal Clear Hair Stvlinq Gel Inqredients: Wt% Deionized Water 96.78 Carbopol 1342 (Acrylates/ClO-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) 0.61 Triethanolamine 99% 0.20 Diaformer 2-301 (Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine/Methacrylates Copolymer) 1.60 Fragrance and Preservative qs Procedure: Sprinkle Carbopol 1342 into rapidly agitating cold water. Mix well until thoroughly dispersed. With mixing, add Triethanolamine to neutralize the Carbopol 1342. Add Diaformer 2-301 and other ingredients one at a time with mixing. Adjust pH as desired. Properties: Appearance: Water white, clear gel Viscosity: 36,000-40,000 cps CHF-O7/Ref: CL24-66 SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Suggested Formulations
Hair Care Products
193
W r o a e n Peroxide Emulsions Hydrogen p e r o x i d e e m u l s i o n s a r e l i s t e d b e l o w , based on 6% h y d r o g e n p e r o x i d e c o n t e n t . O t h e r l e v e l s s h o u l d be t o l e r a t e d b u t s h o u l d be c a r e f u l l y e v a l u a t e d V i s c o s i t y can b e v a r i e d by a d l u s t i n g t h e l e v e l s o f f a t t y a l c o h o l s , f a t t y a c i d , and emulsifier.
Cream
wts/o
Ingredients : A C e t y l alcohol B r i j 721 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s .
6.0 5.0 0.5
B Water, d e i o n i z e d
66.3
C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 27% d i l u t i o n g r a d e
22.2
w t Yo
In~c.edi_e_n__ts:. A Cetyl alcohol B r i j 721 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s .
3.0 3.0 0.5 66.3 5.0
B Water, d e i o n i z e d Sorbitol Solution,
USP
C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 27% d i l u t i o n g r a d e
22.2
Preparation : Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( 8 ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) b e l o w 45C and s t i r t o 35C. R e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o between 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 w i t h d i l u t e p h o s p h o r i c a c i d ( 1 0 % C . P . ) . Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b l e e v o l u t i o n o f oxygen. Comments: A f t e r f o u r weeks a t room t e m p e r a t u r e t h e above cream f o r m u l a has a v i s c o s i t y o f a b o u t 17,600 c p s . The e m u l s i o n s t a b i l i t y i s good f o r a t l e a s t f o u r weeks a t 50C and f o r a t l e a s t f o u r freeze-thaw c y c l e s . A f t e r f o u r weeks a t room t e m p e r a t u r e t h e l o t i o n f o r m u l a t i o n has a v i s c o s i t y o f 5,600 c p s . The e m u l s i o n i s p h y s i c a l l y s t a b l e a t 50C f o r a t l e a s t f o u r weeks and f o u r f r e e z e - t h a w c y c l e s . A f t e r t h r e e months a t room t e m p e r a t u r e t h e H202 c o n t e n t was a l m o s t 5%.
SOURCE:
I C I Surfactants:
F o r m u l a HC-13
794
Cosmetic and Toiletry formulations
HydIogen Per_Z?_xid e Let1 on The f o r m u l a l i s t e d b e l o w d e p a r t s i n t h a t a c o m b i n a t i o n o f s t e a r i c a c i d and f a t t y a l c o h o l s i s used t o a c h i e v e t h e d e s i r e d c o n s i s t e n c y A l s o p h e n a c e t i n , a s t a b i l i z e r , and N - h y d r o x y e t h y l ethylenediaminetriacetic a c i d , a c h e l a t i n g agent, a r e i n c l u d e d t o promote s t a b i l i t y o f t h e hydrogen p e r o x i d e Wt% Ingredients. A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed 10.00 Stearyl alcohol 0 50 Cetyl alcohol 1 .oo B r i ] 721 5.00 S i l i c o n e o i 1 , 350 c s 0.50 B Water 60 5 6 N - h y d r o x y e t h y l e t h y l e n e d i am1 n e - t r i a c e t i c a c i d 0 20 Phenacet i n 0.04 C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 2 7 % d i l u t i o n g r a d e 22.20 D Phosphoric a c i d (10% C . P ) 9.50 Preparation: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( 8 ) t o 7 2 C . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) b e l o w 45C and s t i r t o 35C. R e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o between 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 w i t h d i l u t e p h o s p h o r i c a c i d ( 1 0 % C . P . ) . Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b l e e v o l u t i o n o f oxygen. Cornrnent s : A f t e r f i v e weeks a t room t e m p e r a t u r e t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h e l o t i o n was 1 0 , 2 0 0 c p s . The e m u l s i o n was s t a b l e f o r a t l e a s t f i v e weeks a t 50C and f o r a t l e a s t f o u r f r e e z e - t h a w c y c l e s A f t e r t h r e e months a t room t e m p e r a t u r e t h e h y d r o g e n p e r o x i d e c o n t e n t was 5% F o r m u l a HC-14 Styling/Conditioning
Mousse
A p r o t o t y p e s t y l i n g / c o n d i t i o n i n g mousse i s shown. I t i n c l u d e s F o r e s t a l l as a c o n d i t i o n e r , a s i l i c o n e c o p o l y m e r t o i m p r o v e wet combing and p o l y m e r i c r e s i n f o r s e t t i n g . Ingredi ects: Wt% A Forestall 1.4 B r i ] 721 0.5 Amodimethicone ( a n d ) Nonoxynol-10 ( a n d ) T a l l o w t r imoni um c h l o r i de 0 1 78.0 Water 8 Vinylcaprolactam/PVP/Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate 5.0 copolymer 10.0 E t h a n o l , SDA-40 C H y d r o c a r b o n P r o p e l l a n t A-46 5 0 Preparation : Heat ( A ) t o 70C w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 40C. Add ( A ) t o ( 5 ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Pack i n s u i t a b l e a e r o s o l c o n t a n e r s and p r e s s u r i z e w i t h ( C ) a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . Caution: Ethanol i s very flammable! F o r m u l a HC-12 SOURCE: I C I S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products
195
Medium Hold, 8 0 % VOC Pump Hair Spray Diaformer Z-A provides a medium hold in this clear, water white spray. It also reduces static and improves manageability when the hair is combed. Its clear, flexible film gives a natural looking hold while offering excellent curl retention. Inqredients: Diaformer Z-A (Methacrylol Ethyl Betaine/Methacrylates Copolymer) Dow Corning 190 (Dimethicone Copolyol) Lauramide DEA SD 40 Alcohol Fragrance and Preservative Deionized Water
wt% 5.00 0.20 0.10 75.00 qs
qs
Procedure: Add Diaformer Z-A to the alcohol mixing well. Add water with mixing. Add remaining ingredients one at a time with mixing. Appearance: Clear, water white liquid Formula CHF-12/REF: CL24-76
1 Diahold A-503 is easily formulated into a firm hold spray. This anionic polymer requires no in-process neutralization. Its good compatibility with water and superior curl retention produce a clear water white spray with excellent hold. 1nqredients:Diahold A-503 (AMP-Acrylates Copolymer) Dow Corning 190 (Dimethicone Copolyol) Lauramide DEA SD 40 Alcohol D-Panthenol Fragrance and Preservative Deionized Water
wtg 7.00 0.20 0.10 75.00 0.05 qs qs
Procedure: Add Diahold A-503 to the alcohol mixing well. Add water with mixing. Add remaining ingredients one at a time with mixing. Appearance: Clear, water white liquid Formula CHF-l3/REF: CL24-74 SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Suggested Formulations
196
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
__ Mild
F o r t i f i e d Hair Conditioner
T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n p r o v i d e s a h i g h d e g r e e o f s u b s t a n t i v i t y and c o n d i t i o n i n g . I t h e l p s t o m i n i m i z e damaged h a i r w h i l e l e a v i n g t h e h a i r s o f t and manageable.
W t. %90.5 3.0 2.0 2.5 2.0
InLredi.en_ts_:_
Water Cetearyl Alcohol Monalac MPL Monaquat SL-5 G1 y c e r i n A d j u s t t h e pH t o 5 . 0 Appearance: W h i t e m i l k y l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 25C: 8 0 0 C P F e a t u r e s o f Monalac MPL: Long l a s t i n g c o n d i t i o n i n g H i g h l y s u b s t a n t i v e on s k i n and h a i r Smooth s i l k y a f t e r - f e e l Unusually m i l d cleanser p r o p e r t i e s Multifunctional surfactant Low i r r i t a t i o n p o t e n t i a l Hai r Condi t j o n e 1 Lngredi ents : 0.5% H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n water Cetyl Alcohol M o n a s i l PLN
Wts/, 93.0
3.0 4.0
Viscosity: 2000 c p s Opaque V i s c o u s L i q u i d
Procedure: H y d r a t e HEC i n w a t e r , t h e n add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h s u f f i c i e n t h e a t t o m e l t c e t y l a l c o h o l . Add f r e g r a n c e , p r e s e r v a t i v e , and t h e n package. F e a t u r e s o f M o n a s i l PLN: Water s o l u b l e H i g h s i 1i c o n e c o n t e n t H i gh 1 y s u b s t a n t ive Non i r r i t a t i n g Long l a s t i n g s i l k y a f t e r - f e e l Multifunctional surfactant properties
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products
197
Permanent Wave Lotion One obvious application for Forestall i s i n home permanents as a deodorizer/conditioner. The following example i s a basic formula without optional ingredients like opacifiers o r thickeners Lngredi ents : A Forestall soyaethyl morpholinium ethosulfate B r i ] 35 Laureth-23 Water B
Ethanolami ne
Wt% 1.4 2.0 80.1
9.5
C Thioglycolic acid
7.0
Preparation : Mix (A) with gentle heat if necessary until uniform. Add ( B ) . Add (C). Adjust pH to 9.0-9.5with additional ethanolamine o r thioglycolic acid. Formula HC-15 N c u t ral 1 z i.na L o t i on
I_ngred_i entsi A Forestall soyaethyl morpholinium ethosulfate B r i ] 35 Water Stabi 1 1 zer
Vi tYo 1.4
2.0 92.3 q.s
8 Hydrogen peroxide, 35%
4.3
C Phosphoric acid
4.s.
Preparation: Mix ( A ) with gentle heat until uniform. Add ( B ) at 2 5 1 2 . Adjust pH to 4.0-5.0with (C). Optional stabilizers may include sequestrants o r antioxidants. Formula HC-16 SOURCE:
ICI Surfactants: Suggested Formulations
798
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Spray Hair G e l T h i s c l e a r g e l has e x c e l l e n t pump s p r a y q u a l i t y , w i t h m o d e r a t e h o l d and l i t t l e t a c k on h a i r u n d e r humid c o n d i t i o n s . C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 1 0 g i v e s a v e r y c l e a r g e l w h i c h suspends a i r b u b b l e s , y e t t h i n s when pumped t h r o u g h t h e s p r a y e r t o g i v e a f i n e m i s t . Wt% I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: P a r t A: D e i o n i z e d Water 29.70 0.30 Carbomer/Carbopol U l t r e z 1 0 Part 8: Glycerin 2.00 Methyl paraben 0.20 P a r t C: D e i o n i z e d Water 59.37 PVP/VA c o p o l y m e r / L u v i s k o l VA-73W 8.00 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 0.12 DMDM H y d a n t o i n / G l y d a n t 0.20 D i s o d i um EDTA/Versene NA 0.01 Part D: PEG-45 Palm K e r n e l G1 y c e r i d e s / C r o v o l PK-70 0.10 P r o p e r t i es : PH: 5 . 3 - 5 . 6 V i s c o s i t y (cP): 8,000-10,000 C l a r i t y (%T): 89.0-95.0 Preparation Procedure: 1 . P a r t A : D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 1 0 p o l y m e r by s p r i n k l i n g on t h e s u r f a c e o f warm (25-45C) d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . No m i x i n g r e qui red. 2 . A f t e r t h e p o l y m e r i s w e t t e d ( n o d r y w h i t e powder v i s i b l e ) , m i x s l o w l y a t l o w speed. 3 . Mix P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h heat u n t i l paraben i s d i s s o l v e d . 4 . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . 5 . Mix Part C i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l they a r e dissolved. 6 . Add P a r t C t o P a r t s A and B w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . 7 . P r e m e l t C r o v o l PK-70 and add t o b a t c h . 8 . Add s m a l l a d d i t i o n a l amounts o f TEA u n t i l g e l i s c l e a r (PH 5 . 3 - 5 . 6 ) . Speci a1 I n s t r u c t i o n s : I n t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n , a P V P / V A ( 7 0 : 3 0 ) c o p o l y m e r i n aqueous s o l u t i o n i s r e q u i r e d t o m a i n t a i n optimum c l a r i t y a t up t o 4% r e s i n s o l i d s . A d d i t i o n a l l y , t h e b e s t c l a r i t y w i l l be o b t a i n e d when t h e pH i s m a i n t a i n e d between 5 . 3 - 5 . 6 . S p e c i a l c a r e s h o u l d be t a k e n t o n o t exceed t h i s pH. A d d i t i o n a l h o l d can be o b t a i n e d by t h e i n c o r p o r a t i o n o f P V P K90 (BASF) a t 0 . 5 % t o P a r t B w i t h o u t a r e d u c t i o n o f g e l clarity. The v i s c o s i t y can be l o w e r e d by a d d i n g v e r y s m a l l q u a n t i t es o f Na2 EDTA ( 0 . 0 1 % i n c r e m e n t s ) i f s o d e s i r e d . Note: Recommended s p r a y e r i s Calmar Mark I V h i g h p r e s s u r e , 1 . 8 b p r e c o m p r e s s i o n s p r i n g , W t 25 A c t u a t o r o r i f i c e ( C a l m a r , I n c . )
SOURCE:
B.F. Goodrich Co.:
F o r m u l a t i o n 0003
Hat Care Products
Ingredients: Water T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA Propylene Glycol Glycerin Quaternium-80 ( A b i 1 Quat 3272) DL-Panthenol D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l 8 88183) S u c r o s e Cocoate ( T e g o s o f t LSE 65K) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e ( T a g a t L ) Fragrance Preservatives Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r ,
199
Wt% 93.35 0.10 2.00 1.25 0.30 0.50 1 .oo 0.50 1.oo Q.S. Q.S.
m i x i n g between a d d i t i o n s .
Spray B e t a n g 1 e_r
T h i s p r o d u c t i s s p r a y e d o n t o t h e h a i r t o make combing o f wet o r d r y h a i r e a s i e r . Ingredients: Water Propylene Glycol Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e L - 7 ) PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate ( T e g o s o f t GC) D i m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o l ( A b i l B 8852) Fragrance Preservatives Procedure: Blend t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , the formula i s clear.
Wt% 87.3 8.0 3.0 1.o 0.7 Q.S 0.S
m i x i n g between a d d i t i o n s u n t i l
Comb- Through Gl-osser
Ingre_dient_s:
Wt%
Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol (and) Oimethicone ( A b i l OSW-12) Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV-20) D i m e t h i cone ( 5 0 0 c s ) Dimethicone (1000 c s ) Fragrance Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r
-
mixing well.
C a u t i o n : T r a c e s o f w a t e r w i l l cause t u r b i d i t y .
SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
68.0 20.0 2.0 10.0 Q.S.
200
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Temp-orary Ha.1 r Coj-or
Gel W/Sgnscyeen
I N C I N a m e / T r a d e Name: Phase A : Dei o n ? z e d W a t e r D i s o d l urn EDTA G1 y c e r i n SD 4 0 A l c o h o l Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) I r o n Oxide/Colorona Red G o l d Phase B : Carbomer ( 2 % a q s o l u t i o n ) / C a r b o p o l 981 Phase C : Dei o n i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) P h a s e D: Dei o n i zed Water T r 1 e t ha no 1 am i n e ( 99%) Phenylbenzirnidazole S u l f o n i c A c i d (% as a c i d ) / Eusolex 232
Wt% 10.35 0.05 2.00 20.00
5.00 50.00 3.00 1 .50 5.00 1.10
2.00
Procedure: C o m b i n e Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s s e q u e n t i a l l y u n d e r s l o w c o u n t e r r o t a t i o n a g i t a t i o n . Add P h a s e B . M i x s l o w l y . Add c o m b i n e d Phase C . M a . i n t a i n s l o w a g i t a t i o i i u n t i l b a t c h a p p e a r s smooth and homogeneous. Combine Phase D i n g r e d i e n t s s e q u e n t i a l l y ; mix t o c l a r i t y ; add t o b a t c h s l o w l y . M i x b a t c h t o u n i f o r m i t y . F o r m u l a EUS2-71-3 B l a c k s t a r H a i r Gel I N C I N a m e j T r a d e Name: Phase A : Oei o n ? z e d W a t e r G1 y c e r i ne SD 40 A l c o h o l Di s o d 1 u m EDTA I r o n Oxides (and) Mica/Colorona B l a c k s t a r Colors Phase B : C a r b o m e r / l % C a r b o p o l 940 s o l u t i o n Phase C : T r i e t h a n o l am1 n e 99% O e ? o n i z e d Water Phase D : S D 40 A l c o h o l PVP/VA E - 7 3 5
Wt%
18.00 2.00 10.00 0.05 5.00
50.00 0.75 2.20
10.00 2.00
Procedure: C o m b i n e P h a s e A w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . When h o m o g e n e o u s , add t h e r e m a i n i n g phases i n o r d e r w i t h s t i r r i n g . Formu 1 a AS1 - 1 1 - 1
SOURCE:
Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Hair Care Products
201
Washable Crew Cut Wgx T h i s f o r m u l a was d e v e l o p e d t o p r o v i d e good g r o o m i n g , c o l o r , o d o r , h i g h m e l t i n g p o i n t , and r a p i d w a s h a b i l i t y . H a i r b r u s h e s s t a y c l e a n and t h e u s e r g e t s a l i g h t shampoo s i m p l y b y s t a n d i n g under t h e shower
I cg r-ed l e n t s : Tallow glycerides Tween 6 0 A r l a c e l 165 g l y c e r o l m o n o s t e a r a t e and PEG-100 B r i J 58 C e t e t h - 2 0 P a r a f f i n wax
stearate
Preparation: Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r a t 70C and a g i t a t e . molds and c o o l . Formula HC-3
W t"/. 15.0 20.0 30.0 30.0 5.0
Cast i n t o
C l e a r Hai-r C o n d i t i o n e r - L o t i o n Inqredients: A H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e , 3% aqueous 6 F o r e s t a l 1 s o y a e t h y l morphol i n i um e t h o s u l f a t e Water
w2. 'h 40.0 1.4 58.6
Preparation: P r e p a r e ( A ) i n advance by d i s p e r s i n g h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n w a t e r t o y i e l d a 3% s o l u t i o n . P r e p a r e s o l u t i o n ( 6 ) . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l homogeneous. F o r m u l a HC-8 Cream H a l r R i n s e F o r e s t a l l can a l s o be used e f f e c t i v e l y r i n s e " l o t i o n l i k e t h e one shown b e l o w .
i n an o p a c i f i e d "cream
Ingredients: Cetyl alcohol Bri 1 7 2 1 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 F o r e s t a l l soyaethyl morpholinium e t h o s u l f a t e Water
w O.t h 1.5 1.o 1.4 96.1
Preparation: Heat t o 70C w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool w i t h s t i r r i n g and add make-up w a t e r a t 50C. Formula HC-9
SOURCE:
ICI
S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
202
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Water-in-Oil Hair Dressinq Cream Inaredients: A Mineral oil Ceresin wax Beeswax Arlacel 186 Glyceryl Oleate and Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Solution, USP
B Water Preservative
wt%
20.0 2.0 2.0
2.0 18.0
56.0 q.s.
Preparation: Heat ( A ) to 70C. Heat (B) to 72C. Add (B) to (A) with continuous agitation. Continue stirring until cream cools to room temperature. Replace water lost by evaporation. Mill to produce maximum smoothness and stability. Formula HC-1 Formula HC-2 is an example of an oil-in-water hair dressing lotion. Two percent lanolin added to Formula HC-2 improved grooming and stability. No change in emulsifier content or ratio is required. Oil-in-Water Hair Dressinq Lotion Inqredients:
wtg
A Mineral oil
35.0
Microcrystalline wax Arlacel 60 Sorbitan Stearate Tween 60 Polysorbate 60 B Water Preservative
5.0
2.0 3.0 55.0 q.s.
Preparation: Heat ( A ) to 70C. Heat (B) to 72C. Add (B) to (A) with moderate stirring. Stir to 35C and replace water lost by evaporation. Formula HC-2
SOURCE: ICI Surfactants: Suggested Formulations
Hair Care Products
203
55% VOC Pump Hair Spray
This 55% VOC hair spray incorporates Diaformer 2-400. This deodorized polymer is well suited to lightly fragranced products. It provides a medium hold in this crystal clear, water white spray. Velsan P8-3 acts as a non-greasy superfatting agent. Inqredients: wt% Diaformer 2-400 (Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine/Methacrylates Copolymer) 4.00 SD 40 Alcohol 40.00 Velsan P8-3 (Isopropyl C12-15 Pareth-9 Carboxylate) 0.50 Fragrance and Preservative qs Deionized Water qs Procedure: Add Diaformer 2-400 to the alcohol mixing well. Add water with mixing. Add remaining ingredients one at a time with mixing. Appearance: Clear, water white liquid Formula CHF-l4/REF: CL24-76 80% VOC
Aerosol Hair Spray
Diaformer Z-AT provides excellent curl retention and hold in this 80% VOC aerosol hair spray. In addition, it provides some conditioning, reduces static, and improves manageability when the hair is combed. Inqredients: Diaformer 2-AT (Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine/Methacrylates Copolymer) Deionized Water Dow Corning 190 (Dimethicone Copolyol) SD 40 Alcohol Lauramide DEA Fragrance and Preservative
Wt% 3.60 19.60 0.20 75.00
0.10 CIS
Procedure: Add Diaformer Z-AT to the alcohol mixing well. Add water with mixing. Add remaining ingredients one at a time with mixing. Aerosolize in the ratio of 80 parts concentrate to 2 0 parts propellant. Appearance: Clear, water white liquid Formula CHF-l5/REF: CL24-95 SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Suggested Formulations
Section VII Lotions
Lotions
205
Body Lotion
Wt% Insredients: Phase A: 76.70 H20, Deionized Keltrol T 0.60 0.20 Tetrasodium EDTA Phase B: 4.00 Hest G-7-TO (Glycereth-7 Trioctanoate) 3.30 Hetlan AC (Cetyl Acetate & Acetylated Lanolin A l c . ) 1.65 Hetoxamate SA-40 (PEG-40 Stearate) Hetoxol STA-2 (Steareth-2) 0.55 Glyceryl Stearate 1.65 0.75 Petrolatum 0.70 Hest MS (Myristyl Stearate) 3.65 Hest CSO (Cetearyl Octanoate) 5.00 Hest L-2-0 (Laureth-2 Octanoate) 0.25 Lecithin Phase C: 1.00 Germaben I1 E Specifications: pH: 6.75 Visc. #3/12: 5000 cps Procedure: 1. In a stainless steel kettle, disperse Keltrol T into H20 using a lightnin' type mixer. 2. When completely dispersed, add Tetrasodium EDTA and heat to 751:.
3. In a separate kettle, combine Phase B and heat to 75C. 4. Add Phase B to Phase A while mixing until uniform. 5. Cool to below 40C and add Phase C. SOURCE: Heterene, Inc.: Formula HL 94-146" Milk Lotion Raw Materials: wt% A. Liquid Petrolatum 4.7 Amiter LG-OD 2.2 Propylene Glycol Monostearate 0.4 POE ( 5 ) Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Emalex HC-5) 1.3 2.8 POE ( 5 ) Glyceryl Monostearate (Emalex GM-5) 0.1 Butylparaben Amihope LL 3.0 B. Acylglutamate HS-11 0.3 1,3-Butylene Glycol 5.0 Methylparaben 0.2 C. Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.2 Water 79.72 D. Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) 0.08 1. Dissolve (A) at 80C. 2. Dissolve (C), and then neutralize with (D). 3. Add ( B ) to #2, and dissolve at 8 0 C . 4. Add #3 slowly to (A) with mixing, and then cool to 30C. Note: This milk lotion has light touch, and spreads well. SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, Inc.: Suggested Formulation
206
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Body Lotion, Tvpe O/W. with MPC-Milk Peptide Complex Raw Materials: a) Eumulgin VL 75 Lanette 0 Monomuls 60-35C Cetiol LC Cetiol B Cetiol PGL Myritol 312 Copherol F 1300 Phenonip b) Water, distilled Phenonip Carbopol 980 Glycerin
Wt%
4.50 2.00 1.00 4.00 5.00 1.00 2.00
1.00 0.30
65.85 0.30 0.30 2.00
c) KOH 20%
0.75
d) Water, distilled Na3-Citrate x 2H20 MPC-Milk Peptide Complex
9.38 0.12 0.50
Manufacture: a) Melt and bring to approx. 80C. b) Bring to approx. 80C and add to a) with stirring. Continue stirring until cooled to approx. 50C. c) Add. Continue stirring until cooled to approx. 30C. d) Stir in. Perfume, homogenize. MPC contains natural polypeptides from milk, in activated form. A protective environment exclusively comprised of milk components such as lactalbumin, lactoglobulin, lactoferrin, lactose and lactate provides for product stability and maintenance of bioactivity. Bioactivity is standardized in every batch of MPC to a representative concentration range (EC50). In vitro bioassays in cell cultures and in vivo tests on epithelial tissue and on human skin give proof of the bioactivity and cosmetic benefits of MPC. SOURCE: Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH: Formulas
lotions
207
Flowable M o i s t u r i - z i n g Mi1 k. Cr.eamvLot.j-on R_a_w_ Mat-eyial : Monalac MPL Monaquat S L - 5 Water P o t a s s i u m H y d r o x i d e (45%)
W-t % 3.0 5.0 60.7 0.2 0.5 20.0
B B
Monafax MAP 160 Monalac M L Cetearyl Alcohol Isopropyl Palmitate
C C
Fragrance Preservative
Pact: A A A A B B
5.1 2.0
1.o
2.0
Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y and h e a t t o 75C. Add ( 0 ) t o ( A ) and c o n t i n u e t o homogenize. S t i r - c o o l , w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n , t o 40C, add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 t h e n f i l l . Physical Properties: Appearance: F l o w a b l e H i g h M o i s t u r i z i n g M i l k y L o t i o n F o r m u l a t i o n F-714 Monasi 1 PCA L o t i o n Ingrgdi ents : Part A: Phosphol i p i d S V Propylene Glycol Germaben I I E T i t a n 1 um D i ox1 de TEA Water
Wt%
3.0 2.0 0.4 0.4 0.6 84.6
Part B: Cetyl Alcohol Monafax MAP 160 Hexyl Laurate M o n a s i l PCA
2.0 1.o 4.0
2.0
Procedure: Heat A & B s e p a r a t e l y t o 60C. S l o w l y add B t o A w i t h homogeni z a t i o n and c o n t i n u e b l e n d i n g f o r an a p p r o p r i a t e t i m e . S t i r c o o l t o 40-45C, add f r a g r a n c e and p a c k a g e . Typical Properties: V i s c o s i t y : 1 0 0 , 0 0 0 CP pH: 6 . 4 F o r m u l a t i o n F-705
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
208
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
An e a s y - t o - m a k e , -P -
art: A
basic,
______ Hand L o t i o n y e t v e r y e f f e c t i v e m o i s t u r i z i n g hand l o t i o n
I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: D e m i n e r a l i z e d Water H y d r o x y p r o p y l Methylcellulose/Methocel
40-100
&% 82.34 0.10
B
Na4 E DTA Triethanolamine
0.20 0.08
C
G1 y c e r i n P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben/ Germaben I 1 S o d i u m C12-15 P a r e t h - 1 5 S u l f o n a t e / A v a n e l S - 1 5 0 CGN
3.00 3.00
D
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20/Macol S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e / S - M a z 60 M i n e r a l O i 1/ D r a k e 0 1 9 I s o p r o p y l Palmitate/Lexol IPP C y c l o m e t h i c o n e / M a s i l SF-V
4.50 1.oo 2.00 2 . DO 0.50
E
Fragrance/Lotion
F
C i t r i c Acid,
124
4047
0.60 0.50
0.05
50%
0.13
PH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 6 Ir p m ) V i s c o s i t y : 4 0 0 0 - 6 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d #2 @ Appearance: Glossy w h i t e , f l o w a b l e l o t i o n
Procedure: I n t h e main v e s s e l , mix t h e p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s f o r 10 m i n u t e s . Add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s , a n d m i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s . Add t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s , a n d b e g i n h e a t i n g t h e b a t c h t o 60C. I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , p r e m i x p a r t D , h e a t i n g t o 60C. S l o w l y , w i t h g o o d p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n , a d d p a r t D t o t h e m a i n b a t c h . When u n i f o r m a n d s m o o t h , b e g i n c o o l i n g w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g g o o d a g i t a t i o n . Add f r a g r a n c e a n d a d j u s t pH when b a t c h i s a t a b o u t 45C. P a c k a g e a t a b o u t 35C. P r o d u c t w i l l r e m a i n t h i n a n d p o u r a b l e f o r s e v e r a l h o u r s a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . I t t h i c k e n s t o s p e c i f i e d v i s c o s i t y overnight.
SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,
Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions
209
Hand and Body Lotion T h i s hand and body l o t i o n combines s k i n m o i s t u r i z i n g and p r o t e c t i v e p r o p e r t i e s w i t h a non-tacky, n a t u r a l s k i n f e e l . Insredient/Trade P a r t A: D e i o n i z e d Water D i s o d i um EDTA Carbomer/Carbopol
Name:
wts/, 83.90 0.10 0.20
U l t r e z 10
Part B: P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l G1 y c e r i n Methylparaben Propylparaben
0.80 5.00 0.20 0.10
P a r t C: M i n e r a l O i l / D r a k e o l 21 S t e a r i c A c i d ( t r i p l e p r e s s e d ) / H y s t r e n e 5016 Glycol Stearate Cetyl Acetate/Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol/Acetulan Glyceryl Stearate Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone/Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d , 100 c s
4.00 2.00 1 .50 0.50 0.50 0,20 0.50
Part D: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)
0.50
Properties: pH: 6 . 9 - 7 . 3 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) a t 25C: 14,000-20,000 C o l o r , odor, appearance: T h i c k , w h i t e ,
glossy emulsion
Procedure: 1 . Add d i s o d i u m EDTA t o t h e w a t e r . M i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . 2 . D i s p e r s e Carbopol U l t r e z 10 polymer i n t h e w a t e r . A f t e r p o l y m e r has f u l l y w e t t e d , m i x a t a s l o w speed. 3 . Combine P a r t 8 . Heat s l i g h t l y and m i x u n t i l t h e p a r a b e n s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add t o P a r t A . 4 . Heat t h e combined P a r t s A and B t o 65C. 5 . Combine P a r t C . Heat t o 65C and m i x s l i g h t l y u n t i l a l l t h e sol i d s a r e d i ssol ved. 6 . Add P a r t C t o P a r t s A and B . W h i l e t h e t e m p e r a t u r e i s a t 65C, add P a r t D . 7 . Mix t h e emulsion w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n u n t i l t h e tempera t u r e r e a c h e s 40C. Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .
SOURCE: B . F . G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n U 0 0 0 2
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
270
Liqht
Moisturizinp Lotion
A l i g h t , n o n o i l y l o t i o n w h i c h s p r e a d s e a s i l y and i s a b s o r b e d q u i c k l y i n t o t h e s k i n . S t l i t a b l e a s a base f o r an a f t e r - s h a v e b a l m o r an a f t e r - s u n l o t i o n .
Part: A
I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name:. D e i o n i z e d Water H y d r o x y p r o p y l Methylcellulose/Methocel PPG-4 E t h y l e n e D i ami ne/Mazeen 1 7 4
w_v
79.5 40-100
0.1 0.2
C e t y l A l c o h o l /CO-I 6 9 5 S t e a r i c Aci d/fmersol 132 S o r b i t a n Laurate/S-Maz 2 0 B e n z y l L a u r a t e / M a z o l EE-1 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e / M a s i 1 SF-V D i m e t h i c o n n / M a s i 1 SF-1000
2.0 2.0 2.0 1.o
C
M e t h y l Paraben I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germal 1 11 5 SO A l c o h o l 408
0.2 0.2 5.0
D
C i t r i c Acid Dei o n i zed Water
0.3 5.0
B
2.0 0.5
pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 54,000 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d T C C 1 . 5 rpm) 7 , 2 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d # 3 13 1 2 rpm) Appearance: S l i g h t l y p e a r l e s c e n t , g l o s s y w h i t e l o t i o n
Procedure: M i x p a r t A w a t e r and t h e h y d r o x y p r o p y l m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n main t a n k , b e g i n h e a t i n g t o 70C. A f t e r f i v e m i n u t e s , add t h e Mazeen 1 7 4 t o r a i s e t h e pH t o 8 . 5 - 9 . 0 , h y d r a t i n g t h e c e l l u l o s e . I n a s i d e v e s s e l , m i x and h e a t t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s t o 70C. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w i t h good m i x i n g . Add t h e m e t h y l p a r a b e n . Cool t h e b a t c h t o 35-40C, add t h e i m i d a z o l i d i n y l u r e a and a l c o h o l . A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d d i s s o l v e d i n w a t e r .
SOURCE:
PPG Industries, I n c . : Suggested Formulation 1-205
Lotions
21 1
L o t i on F o r m u l a SK-8a i s a m i n e r a l based o i l - i n - w a t e r l o t i o n w i t h a v i s c o s i t y i n t h e r a n g e o f 6-8,000 c p s . Thermal s t a b i l i t y i s good, w i t h some s e p a r a t i o n n o t e d a f t e r t h e f o u r t h f r e e z e - t h a w c y c l e .
Wt%
Inqredients: A Light mineral o i l Stearyl alcohol B r i j 721 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 B r i j 72 S t e a r e t h - 2
B Water,
8.0 1.o 2.0 2.0
deionized
86.9
C Preservative
q.s.
D Fragrance
0.1
Preparation : Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and a g i t a t e w i t h p r o p e l l e r , Add ( C ) b e l o w 50C and ( D ) a t 35C. Add w a t e r t o r e p l a c e t h a t l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. F o r m u l a SK-8a The f o r m u l a b e l o w p r o v i d e s e x c e l l e n t e m o l l i e n c e w i t h o u t e x c e s s i v e g r e a s i n e s s . T h i s m i g h t be used f o r a d r y s k i n p r e p a r a t i on. Dry Skin Lotion
hredients: A. Light mineral o i l A r l a m o l ISML I s o s o r b i d e L a u r a t e S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s . B r i j 700 S t e a r e t h - 1 0 0 Span 60 S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e
72.0 0.3 3.0
B . Water, d e i o n i z e d Carbomer 934 Sorbitol Solution,
Wt% 10.0 7.0 0.5 2.4 3.6
USP
C . Sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n ,
10% aqueous
0.3
D. Preservative
q.s.
E. Fragrance
0.1
Preparation Heat ( A ) moderate ag and r e p l a c e F o r m u l a SK-
SOURCE:
ICI
t o 70C and (B) t o 72C. Add (B) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) b e l o w 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C water l o s t by evaporation. 1 Surfactants:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
272
_.___ L o t i o n f .o- r
Very D r y Skin
P r o v i d e s i n s t a n t s o f t e n i n g and m o i s t u r i z a t i o n f o r r o u g h , chapped s k i n . The g r e a s i n e s s o f t h e p e t r o l a t u m i s g r e a t l y r e d u c e d bv t h e d r v f e e l o f Mazon E E - 1 , and t h e r e i s no d r a g g y t r a n s i t i o n d u r i n g - r u b o u t t h a n k s t o hilacol 5 7 .
_-_ Part: A
I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Dei on1 zed Water H y d r o x y p r o p y l Methylcellulose/Methocal T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 50%
Wt%
40-100
71.2 0.2 0.1
B
Glycerin M e t h y l Paraben
4.0 0.2
C
P e t r o l a t u m / P e r l a t u m 4 1 0 CG C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l (and) Ceteareth-20jMacol 124 B e n z y l Laurate/Mazon E i - 1 C e t y l A c e t a t e (and) A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n A l c o h o l / ACetlJlan P P G - 1 0 Butaned oljhilacol 57
6.0 5.0
D
I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germal 1 1 1 5 Dei o n i zed Wate
0.2 2.0
E
F r a y r a nc e C i t r i c Acid
0.1 C.S.
4.5 4.0 2.5
QH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : 3 0 0 , 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d TF @ 1 . 5 rpm) Appearance: G l o s s y w h i t e , v i s c o u s l o t i o n
Procedure: Disperse t h e hydroxypropyl methylcellulose i n t o t h e p a r t A w a t e r . Add t h e t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and m i x f o r a t l e a s t 2 0 m i n u t e s . Add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s , and h e a t t o 65C. Premix p a r t C i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , h e a t i n g t o 70C. Add p a r t C t o A t B w i t h good a g i t a t i o n t o f o r m t h e e m u l s i o n . W i t h sweep a g i t a t i o n , c o o l t o 45C. Add p a r t D ( p r e m i x e d ) , f o l l o w e d by f r a g r a n c e . A d j u s t pH, if n e c e s s a r y .
SOURCE:
PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c . : Formulation 1-108
Lotions
213
Low C o s t Moi s t u r i z i nq L o t i o n This u l t r a l i g h t l o t i o n leaves t h e s k i n w i t h a s o f t , velvety feel. Sequence: 1 1 1
smooth
Wt%
1
Raw M a t e r i a l / I N C I Name: Dei o n i zed Water Methyl paraben Hampene N a 3 T / T r i s o d i u m EDTA L i p o n i c EG-l/Glycereth-26
77.76 0.25 0.05 1.25
2
Carbopol 934 ( 2 % a q . d i s p ' n . ) / C a r b o m e r
12.00
3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
L i p o n a t e NPGC-2 L i pomul se 165 L i p o p e g 6000DS/PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e L i poco1 C / C e t y l A l c o h o l Lipowax P / E m u l s i f y i n g Wax, N F L i p o v o l CO/Castor O i 1 L i p o v o l ALM/Sweet Almond O i 1 Propyl paraben
2.00 1.25 0.50 1 .oo 0.60 0.50 0.30 0.10
4 4
Dei o n i zed Water Triethanolamine,
0.24
5 5
Dei o n i zed Water U n i c i d e U - I 3 / I m i d a z o l i d n y l Urea
1 .oo 99%
1.oo 0,20
Procedure: 1 . M i x and h e a t Sequence # I t o 8OC u s i n g h i g h speed on o v e r h e a d mixer 2 . Heat Seauence #2 t o 70C and add t o Sequence # 1 , b r i n g i n g tempe r a t u r e 'back t o 80C. 3 . M i x t o g e t h e r Sequence #3 and he t t o 78C u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y m e l t e d and c l e a r . Then add t o b a t c h a t medium speed on o v e r head m i x e r . 4 . Premix Sequence # 4 and add t o b a t c h a t medium/high speed on - _ _ (Ll e_ d_ 0_ I -. L.7- - - , . _L-_ L _ L q c n - _ - _- - - - L7-A.. uvei iiii x e r , w r i i I e L O U I I rty u d L c i i x u J J C , u s I i i y s w e e p u I a u e a t l o w speed. 5 . Premix Sequence # 5 i n g r e d i e n t s and add t o b a t c h a t 35C.
.
__
SOURCE:
L _
L i p 0 C h e m i c a l s I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n No. 899
274
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Moisture Lotion
Yt.%
Ingredients; A : Squalane Beeswax Propylene g l y c o l s t e a r a t e G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e SE POE ( 1 5 ) G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e FOE ( 3 0 ) G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e B:
34.5 1.5 1.5 3.0 4.0 2.0
A c y l g l u t a m a t e HS-11 Propylene g l y c o l Prodew 100 Methyl paraben Water
0.2 5.0 2.0 0.2 balance
Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) and ( B ) r e s p e c t i v e l y a t 80-85C. Add ( A ) t o (B), s t i r . Cool down t o 50C w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n by homomixer and t h e n t o 35C w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . F o r m u l a No. NCC-1003-1
W/O
Lotion WtQh
Raw M a t e r i a l s : A : Eldew CL-301 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate Glyceryl trioctanoate Squal ane
2.0 0.5 8.0 4.4
B : Dimethicone copolyol Dimethicone ( h i g h l y polymer1zed)
C: G l y c e r i n Mar indew PC-100 BG-M NaCl Water
10.0 2.0
5.0 0.02 1.o 0.8 t o make 1 0 0 . 0
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 40-5OC. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . M i x and d i s s o l v e ( C ) a t room t e m p e r a t u r e and add s l o w l y t o t h e m i x t u r e o f ( A ) and ( B ) w i t h h i g h s h e a r m i x i n g ( 4 0 0 0 rpm f o r 4 m i n u t e s ) . Features : A w / o l o t i o n w i t h l i g h t and l e s s o c c l u s i v e t o u c h . F o r m u l a No. M-2
SOURCE:
Ajinomoto U . S , A . ,
I n c . : Applications
Formulas
Lotions
215
Moisturizinq Milk Lotion Ingredient: Part A: Monalac MPL Monaquat SL-5 Water Potassium Hydroxide (45%) Monasil PLN
5.0 55.7
Part B: Monafax MAP 160 Monalac ML Cetearyl Alcohol (Alfol 1618CG) Isopropyl Palmitate
0.5 20.0 5.1 2.0
wt% 5.0 0.2
4.0
Part C: Fragrance Germaben I1
2.0
0.5
Proced1:re: 1) Co:hine ingredients in both phases separately. 2 ) Heat both separately to 75C. 3 ) Add Part B to Part A and homogenize for at least 15 minutes. 4) Stir cool, with minimal aeration to 45C. 5) Add fragrance, color, and preservative (Part C). 6) Adjust pH to 6.0-6.5 then fill. Monasil
PCA
Lotion
Inaredients: Part A: Phospholipid SV Propylene Glycol Germaben IIE Titanium Dioxide Triethanolamine (99%) Water Part B: Cetyl Alcohol Monafax MAP 160 Hexyl Laurate Monasil PCA
Wt% 3.0 2.0
0.4 0.4
0.6 84.6 2.0
1.0 4.0 2.0
Procedure: Heat A & B separately to 65C. Slowly add B to A with homogenization and continue blending for an appropriate time. Stir cool to 40-45C, add fragrance and package. Typical Properties: Viscosity: 100,000 cP/pH: 6.4 SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Suggested Formulations
21 6
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Non-Greasy W/O M i n e r a l O i 1 F r e e L o t i o n
Wt%
Inqredi ents: A A r l a m o l HD, Isohexadecane A r l a m o l E , PPG 15 s t e a r y l e t h e r A r l a c e l P135, PEG-30 D i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e A r l a m o l ISML, I s o s o r b i d e L a u r a t e A r l a t o n e T , PEG 4 0 S o r b i t a n P e r o l e a t e
10.0 5.0 4.0 1. o 0.5
B Water 70% s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n
74.2 5.0
0.3
C Magnesium s u l f a t e
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 5 0 C , ( 6 ) t o 55C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h moderate p r o p e l l e r s t i r r i n g . Homogenize f o r 20 m i n u t e s . Add ( C ) . C o n t i n u e h o m o g e n i z a t i o n u n t i l t e m p e r a t u r e reaches 40C. Comments: V i s c o s i t y 2 6 , 1 2 0 cps ( B r o o k f i e l d D V - 1 + , F o r m u l a t i o n CP 1119 .____-.-Water-in-Silicone
s p i n d l e 3,
rpm 3 )
Lotion
In g r e d i e n t s : A D i m e t h i c o n e , 100 c S t Cyc 1omet h icone Cyclomethicone (and) dimethicone c o p o l y o l F o r m u l a t i o n A i d 3225C) A r l a c e l P135 PEG-30 d i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e Span 80 s o r b i t a n o l e a t e A r l a t o n e T PEG-40 s o r b i t a n p e r o l e a t e Propylene g l y c o l
Wt% 12.0 10.0 (Dow C o r n i ng
10.0 1.1 0.5 0.2 0.2 65.7 0.3
B ) Water Magnesi um s u l f a t e
C) P r e s e r v a t i v e
q.s
P r o c e d u r e: Heat ( A ) t o ( 8 ) t o 50C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h medium s t i r r i n g . Add ( C ) . Homogenize a t 30 second i n t e r v a l s u n t i l uniform. F o r m u l a t i o n CP1175
SOURCE:
I C I Americas:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions
277
O/W Body Lotion, Cold Processinq Comvonent: Wt% I Eumulgin VL 75/Lauryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl2-Di-polyhydroxystearate (and) Glycerin 4.5 Cetiol J 600/01eyl Erucate 4.0 Cetiol V/Decyl Oleate 3.0 Cetiol OE/Dicaprylyl Ether 2.0 Myritol 312/Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 6.0 Dow Corning 1401 Fluid/Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol 1.0 I1 Glycerin 86% 2.4 Carbopol 980 2 % sol./Carbomer 15.0 KOH 20% 0.6 Water 61.5 q.s. Preservative/Perfume Viscosity mPas: 8,800 Preparation in the Laboratory/Cold Emulsifying Process: Mix phase I at room temperature, add the previously swollen Carbopol ( 2 % ) and the other components of phase I1 while stirring and homogenize. Duration and intensity of the homogenization depend upon the technical conditions. Finally neutralize with KOH. Formulation No.: 95/117/59 Liqht O/W Lotion
Wt% Component: I Eumulgin VL 75/Lauryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Glycerin 4.5 1.0 Lanette O/Cetearyl Alcohol Cetiol J600/01eyl Erucate 3.0 Myritol 331/Cocoglycerides 6.0 Cetiol OE/Dicaprylyl Ether 2.0 Baysilon M 35O/Dimethicone 0.5 Monomuls 60-35 C/Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides 1.0 Carbopol ETD 2001/Carbomer 0.2 Copherol F 1300/Tocopherol 1.0 I1 Glycerin 86% 2.0 0.5 KOH 20% Water 78.3 q.s. Preservative/perfume Viscosity mPas: approx. 10,000 Preparation in the Laboratory: Heat phase I to 80C. Heat phase I1 to 80C and add the oil phase while stirring. Allow the emulsion to cool with stirring. The stirring rate must be selected in such a way that the emulsion is kept in continual motion without developing a so-called "stirring cone". Add the Carbopol into the oil phase. Neutralize at 40C. Add preservative and perfume at room tempera ture. Formulation No.: 97/004/25 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested Formulations
218
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W Lotion for SDrav ADDliCatiOn
Component: wt% -1. Emulgade SE/Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 ( and 1 Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate 4.5 Eumulgin BZ/Ceteareth-ZO 1.0 Cetiol LC/Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 5.0 Cetiol OE/Dicaprylyl Ether 5.0 84.5 I1 Water, demin. Preservative q.s. Viscosity, 23C. mPas: t l O O Brookfield Preparation in the Laboratory: 1. Heat phase I to 85C and stir until homogeneous. 2. Heat phase I1 to 85C and stir slowly into phase I. 3. Allow the emulsion to cool with stirring; the stirring rate must be selected in such a way that the emulsion is kept in continual motion and no air is trapped. 4. Add preservative if necessary. Stop stirring at 30C. Formulation No. 93/060/24 Soft O/W Body Lotion Comoonent: wt% I. Emulgade SE/Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate 8.0 2.0 Eumulgin B Z/Ceteareth-20 Mandelol/Almond oil 2.0 Eutanol G/Octyldodecanol 2.0 Cetiol 868/0ctyl Stearate 8.0 I1 .Water 55.0 Glycerin 86% 5.0 III.Carbopo1 980 2 % swelling/Carbomer 15.0 9.0 1V.NaOH (1% S o l ) q.s. Preservative Viscosity, mPas: 8000 Brookfield, 23C Preparation in the Laboratory: 1. Melt phase I at 85C and stir until homogeneous. 2 . Melt phase I1 at 85C and stir slowly into phase I. Stir at temperature for min. 3. Allow the emulsion to cool until 50C with stirring and add phase 111. Stir until homogeneous. 4. Neutralize with phase IV. Allow to cool to 30C with stirring. Formulation No. 93/021/22
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested Formulations
Lotions
Oil-in-Water
219
Stearic Acid Lotion
A r l a c e l 165 p r o d u c e s a s t a b l e l o t i o n w h i c h i s made even more e l e g a n t by t h e a d d i t i o n o f A r l a m o l E . Ingredients: W O A . S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed 2.0 t o 4.0 Arlamol E 2.0 A r l a c e l 165 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e and PEG-100 S t e a r a t e 5.0 6 . S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n , USP 10.0 Water 79.0 t o 8 1 . 0 Preservative q.s. Preparation: Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) s l o w l y t o ( A ) w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l c o o l e d t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . R e p l a c e water l o s t by evaporation. F o r m u l a SK-2a Hand L o t i o n
I naredi ent s :
Wt%
A.
Liaht mineral o i l 8.0 Ariamol E 3.0 A r l a c e l 165 5.0 M y r j 52, PEG-40 S t e a r a t e 2.0 B r i j 30, L a u r e t h - 4 1.o 6 . Water 76.4 S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n , USP 4.0 Carbomer 934 0.3 C . Sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n , 10% aqueous 0.3 D. Preservative q.s. P r e p a r a t ion : D i s p e r s e Carbomer 934 w i t h a g i t a t i o n and h e a t t o 72C. Heat (A) t o 7 0 C . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C). Add ( D ) b e l o w 5OC. S t i r t o 35C and r e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t by evaporation. Formula SK-3 Hand L o t i o n Ingredients: Wt% A r l a m o l E pop 15 s t e a r y l e t h e r 8.0 A r l a s o l v e 200 L i q u i d (72% a c t i v e ) poe 20 i s o h e x a d e c y l ether 1.7 2.8 B r i j 7 2 poe 2 s t e a r y l e t h e r S t e a r y l a l c o h o l , USP 2.0 8 . Water, d e i o n i z e d 85.1 Carbomer 934 0.2 C . NaOH (10% w / w aqueous) 0.2 D . Perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e q.s. Preparation: D i s p e r s e t h e Carbomer 934 i n t h e w a t e r . Heat ( A ) t o 7 0 C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add (D) between 35-4OC. Pour a b o u t 35C. F o r m u l a A€-10 SOURCE: ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s A.
2.220
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Si
1 ky- H a n d L o t ion
T h i s l i g h t l o t i o n g o e s on smooth, silicone-fortified barrier
Pa_rL :A
B
c
and leaves a non-greasy,
wto/, 2.0 0.5 2.0 3.0 1.5 0.5 2.0 1. o
I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Nam-e P h e n y l T r i m e t h i c o n e / M a s i 1 SF 7 5 6 D i m e t h i c o n e / M a s i 1 SF 1 0 0 Isopropyl Palmitate/Lexol IPM M i n e r a l O i 1/ D r a k o l 9 C e t y l Alcohol/CO-1695 S t e a r i c A c i d / E m e r s c l 132 C e t e a r e t h - 2 0 / M a c o l CSA-20 S o r b i t a n Stearate/S-Maz 20 Dei o n i zed Water Glycerin P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l H y d r o x y p r o p y l Methylcellulose/Methocel Triethanolamine Preservative/Germaben Fragrance C i t r i c Acid
40-100
I1
80.3 3.0 3.0 0.1 0.3
0.6 0.1 0.1
pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 3 1 , 0 0 0 cps ( B r o o k f i e l d #2 @ 1 . 5 rpm) 2 3 , 0 0 0 cps ( B r o o k f i e l d # 3 @ 3 r p m ) Appearance: G l o s s y w h i t e , f l o w a h l e l o t i o n
Procedure: Premix P a r t A; h e a t t o 6OC. I n t h e main v e s s e l ; m i x t h e f i r s t f o u r i n g r e d i e n t s of P a r t B . B e g i n h e a t i n g t o 6 0 C ; a d d t h e t r i ethanolamine t o i n i t i a t e hydration o f t h e hydroxypropyl methylc e l l u l o s e . W i t h b o t h p a r t s a t 60C, s l o w l y a d d A t o B w i t h h i g h s h e a r m i x i n g . Sweep cool t o 3 5 C ; a d d i n g t h e P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s a t a r o u n d 40-45C. F o r m u l a t i o n 1-204
SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Skin Lotion
Wt%
Raw
A:
Materials: Mineral o i l A m i t e r LGOD Propylene g l y c o l s t e a r a t e PEG-5 H y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l PEG-5 G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e B u t y l paraben Amihope L L
5.00 2.00 0.50 1.50 2.50 0.10 3.00
0.30 0.20 0,08 5.00 0.20 balance
B: A c y l g l u t a m a t e HS-11 Carbomer 941 Sodi um h y d r o x i d e Butylene g l y c o l Methyl paraben Water Procedure: D i s s o l v e Carbomer 941 and sodium h y d r o x i d e i n Add o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s o f ( 8 ) t o t h e s o l u t i o n and 75-8OC. D i s s o l v e ( A ) i n g r e d i e n t s a t 8OC and add a g i t a t i o n . Cool down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h s t Formula No. NON-404
water f i r s t . d i s s o ve a t A) t o (6) w i t h r r i ng
Moi sture L o t i on
Raw M a t e r i a l s : A:
Squalane Beeswax Propylene g l y c o l s t e a r a t e G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e SE POE(15) G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e POE(30) G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e
B:
A c y l g l u t a m a t e HS-11 Propylene g l y c o l Prodew 1 0 0 Methyl paraben Water
Wt% 34.5 1.5 1.5 3.0 4.0 2.0
0.2 5.0 2.0 0.2 balance
Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) and ( 8 ) r e s p e c t i v e l y a t 8 0 - 8 5 C . Add ( A ) t o ( 8 1 , s t i r . Cool down t o 50C w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n by homomixer and t h e n t o 35C w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . N o t e : Spreads w e l l on t h e s k i n and p r o v i d e s v e r y e m o l l i e n t and moisturizing touch. Formula No. NCC-1003-1
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U , S . A , , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
222
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
S-olar P r o t e c t i o n L o t i o n
Wt%*
Ingredient: A : Dimethicone Hydroxyoctocosanyl Hydroxystearate P o t a s s i u m C e t y l Phosphate ( A m p h i s o l K ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( a n d ) C12-15 A l k y l Benzoate (Tiovei 1 FIN) Sorbitan Palmitate D i l a u r y l Trimethyolpropane S i l o x y S l i c a t e
12.50 3.50 5.00
0 : D e i o n i z e d Water Veegum U l t r a , Magnesium Aluminum S i R h o d i g e l , Xanthan Gum Propylene Glycol P o l y s o r b a t e 20 Sodi urn L a c t a t e L a c t i c A c i d t o pH 5 . 5
63.10 0.80 0.20 5.00 3.50 0.30 9.s.
C:
ic a t e
2.00 3.50 0.50
Methylchloroisothiazolinone ( a n d ) M e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e ( K a t h o n CG)
0.10
Procedure: Weigh t h e w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and h e a t t o 75C. M i x w i t h a homogenizer o p e r a t i n g a t 5 0 0 0 rpm. Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l , add them t o t h e w a t e r and m i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s and m i x each f o r 3 m i n u t e s . M a i n t a i n t e m p e r a t u r e a t 75C. Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , m i x and h e a t t o 75C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t 8 . M i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 5 0 0 0 rpm. T r a n s f e r t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o c r e a t e a s m a l l v o r t e x . B e g i n c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g a t 40C, add P a r t C . Package a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e . N o t e : A v o i d pH o f 6 . 5 - 7 . 5 a s t h i s may a f f e c t SPF v a l u e . *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , Ltd.
I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n from A&E Connock,
Lotions
223
Ult-ra-AHA Mo.ist.uriz.i.n~g S k i n . L o t i o n Formul a P r o f i 1 e : The s y n e r g i s t i c m i x t u r e o f Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l w i l l c r e a t e an AHA cream t h a t w i l l have g r e a t s p r e a d a b i l i t y and f e e l w i t h o u t t h e t a c k and s t r i n g i n e s s c h a r a c t e r i s t i c o f R h o d i g e l . Veegum U l t r a w i l l i m p r o v e s t a b i l i t y and m a i n t a i n v i s c o s i t y o f t h e p r o d u c t . The e m o l l i e n t s i n t h e o i l phase and t h e h u m e c t a n t s i n t h e w a t e r phase w i l l s u p p o r t l a s t i n g r e s i d u a l s k i n f e e l and moi s t u r i z a t i o n . Wt% I n q r e d i en-ts: A : Water 70.64 1 .o Veegum U l t r a (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e ) Xanthan Gum ( R h o d i g e l ) 0.5 B: Glycerin 3.0 B u t y l ene G l y c o l 2.0 C: Cetyl Alcohol 1.o G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e S E (Dermacare MS SE) 3.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Neobee M-5) 5.0 C12-15 O c t a n o a t e ( F i n e s t e r EH-25) 1. o D i m e t h i c o n e (DC-200 f l u i d - 3 5 0 c t s ) 1. o Steareth-2 ( B r i j 72) 0.83 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 ( B r i j 721 ) 0.83 D: P r e s e r v a t i v e qs 7.0 E: Glycolic Acid F: F r a g r a n c e qs G: Triethanolamine 3.2 qs C i t r i c Acid A d j u s t pH t o 3.8t-0.2 Procedure: S t e p 1 : D r y b l e n d Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l i n P a r t A . ( D r y b l e n d i n g r e d u c e s t h e c l u m p i n g o f R h o d i g e l and a l l o w s f o r t h e s i m u l t a n e o u s i n t r o d u c t i o n o f i n g r e d i e n t s ) , S i f t t h e powder i n t o an e s t a b l i s h e d v o r t e x i n t h e w a t e r . Veegum U l t r a w i l l be h y d r a t e d w i t h i n 15 m i n u t e s . A l l o w a b o u t 45 m i n u t e s f o r R h o d i g e l t o dissolve completely. The a d d i t i o n o f any o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s d u r i n g t h e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s w i l l i n t e r f e r e w i t h t h e h y d r a t i o n o f Veegum U l t r a and w i l l r e d u c e o r even e l i m i n a t e t h e d e s i r e d p r o p e r t i e s g e n e r a t e d by t h e Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e . S t e p 2: B e g i n h e a t i n g w a t e r phase i n S t e p 1 t o 75C. S t e p 3 : Once t h e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s i s c o m p l e t e d , add r e m a i n i n g w a t e r phase i n g r e d i e n t s f r o m P a r t B t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 4 : B l e n d o i l phase i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t C and h e a t t h e o i l phase t o 75C. S t e p 5 : When b o t h phases a r e a t 75C, add o i l phase i n S t e p 4 t o w a t e r phase S t e p 2 . S t e p 6 : Cool t o 4512. Add P a r t D - P r e s e r v a t i v e t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 7: Add P a r t E - A H A - G l y c o l i c A c i d t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 8 : Add P a r t F - F r a g r a n c e t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 9 : Cool t o 35C. A d j u s t pH w i t h p a r t G . V i s c o s i t y : 5 0 , 0 0 0 ~ - 1 0 , 0 0 0 c p s a f t e r 24 h o u r s . pH: 3 . 6 - 4 . 0 S t a b l e e m u l s i o n t h a t passes 3 month s t a b i l i t y t e s t i n g . SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , I n c . : F o r m u l a No. 4 7 0
224
Cosmetic and Toi/efry Formulations
Ultra-AHA M o i s t u r i z i n g S k i n L o t i o n Formula P r o f i l e : The s y n e r g i s t i c m i x t u r e o f Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l w i l l c r e a t e an AHA cream t h a t w i l l have g r e a t s p r e a d i b i l i t y and f e e l w i t h o u t t h e t a c k and s t r i n g i n e s s c h a r a c t e r i s t i c o f R h o d i g e l . Veegum U l t r a w i l l i m p r o v e s t a b i l i t y and m a i n t a i n t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h e p r o d u c t . The e m o l l i e n t s i n t h e o i l phase and t h e humecta n t s i n t h e w a t e r phase w i l l p r o v i d e r e s i d u a l s k i n f e e l and moi s t u r i z a t i o n . Inaredients: wt% A : Water 73 34 Veegum U l t r a (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e ) 1.5 R h o d i g e l ( X a n t h a n Gum) 0.5 6: Glycerin 3.0 B u t y l ene G1 y c o l 2.0 C: Cetyl Alcohol 1,o G l y c e r y l M o n o s t e a r a t e SE (Dermacare MS S E ) 3.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Neobee M-5) 5.0 C12-15 O c t a n o a t e ( F i n e s t e r EH-25) 1.o D i m e t h i c o n e (DC-200 f l u i d - 3 5 0 c t s ) 1.o Steareth-2 ( B r i j 72) 0.83 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 ( B r i j 721) 0.83 D: P r e s e r v a t i v e qs 7.0 E: Glycolic Acid F: Fragrance qs G: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 3.2 C i t r i c Acid A d j u s t pH t o 3 . 8 1 - 0 . 2 qs Procedure: S t e p 1 : D r y b l e n d Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l i n P a r t A . ( D r y b l e n d i n g r e d u c e s t h e c l u m p i n g o f R h o d i g e l and a l l o w s f o r t h e s i m u l t a n e o u s i n t r o d u c t i o n o f i n g r e d i e n t s ) . S i f t t h e powder i n t o an e s t a b l i s h e d v o r t e x i n t h e w a t e r . Veegum U l t r a w i l l be h y d r a t e d w i t h i n 15 m i n u t e s . A l l o w a b o u t 45 m i n u t e s f o r R h o d i g e l t o dissolve completely. The a d d i t i o n o f any o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s d u r i n g t h e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s w i l l i n t e r f e r e w i t h t h e h y d r a t i o n o f Veegum U l t r a and w i l l r e d u c e o r even e l i m i n a t e t h e d e s i r e d p r o p e r t i e s g e n e r a t e d b y t h e Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e . S t e p 2 : B e g i n h e a t i n g w a t e r phase i n S t e p 1 t o 75C. S t e p 3 : Once t h e h y d r a t i o n p r o c e s s i s c o m p l e t e d , add r e m a i n i n g w a t e r phase i n g r e d i e n t s f r o m P a r t B t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 4 : B l e n d o i l phase i n g r e d i e n t s i n Phase C and h e a t t h e o i l phase t o 75C. S t e p 5 : When b o t h phases a r e a t 75C, add o i l phase i n S t e p 4 t o w a t e r phase S t e p 2 , S t e p 6 : Cool t o 45C. Add P a r t D - P r e s e r v a t i v e t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 7 : Add P a r t E - A H A - G l y c o l i c A c i d t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 8 : Add P a r t F - F r a g r a n c e t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 9 : Cool t o 35C. A d j u s t pH w i t h P a r t G . Product S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d LVT: 60,000+-10,000 c p s a f t e r 24 h o u r s pH: 3 . 6 - 4 . 0 T h i s f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s a s t a b l e e m u l s i o n - p a s s e s 3 month t e s t i n g SOURCE: R.T. V a n d e r b i l t C o . , I n c . : F o r m u l a No. 476 I
Lotions
225
Vani s h i ng_Lot __ ion
a
r ed ien t s :
A:
A r l a m o l ISML, i s o s o r b i d e m o n o l a u r a t e Stearyl alcohol A r l a m o l E , POP ( 1 5 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r D i m e t h i c o n e , 350 c s . B r i j 7 0 0 , POE ( 1 0 0 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 7 2 , POE ( 2 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r
B: Water Carbomer 934 Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e s o l u t i o n ( 5 % aqueous) C:
Sodi um h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0% aqueous)
Kt %
4.00 1.DO 1
.oo
0.50 2.00 2.00 79.05 0.15 10.00 0.15
D: P r e s e r v a t i v e
0.10
E: F r a g r a n c e
0.05
Suggested P r e p a r a t i o n : Heat A t o 7 0 C and B t o 72C. Add B t o A w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add C . Add D b e l o w 50C. Add E a t 35C and add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Comments ; T h i s f o r m u l a w o u l d be s u i t a b l e f o r a hand l o t i o n . I t i s n o n - g r e a s y and has a v e r y p l e a s a n t a f t e r f e e l . I t i s r e l a t i v e l y i n e x p e n s i v e s i n c e i t c o n t a i n s n e a r l y 90% w a t e r . T h i s f o r m u l a i s s t a b l e f o r a t l e a s t 1 3 weeks a t 5 C , and room t e m p e r a t u r e and f o r a t l e a s t s i x f r e e z e - t h a w c y c l e s .
__ Emollient ___-_ Lotion -_ Wt%
m r e d i ents : A : A r l a m o l E pop 1 5 s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 72 poe 2 s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 721 poe 2 1 s t e a r y l e t h e r
12.0 4.8 1.2
8 : Water,
82.0
C:
deionized
Perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e
9.s.
Preparation: H e a t ( A ) t o 7 0 C and ( 8 ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y . Add ( C ) a t a b o u t 40C. Pour a b o u t 35C. F o r m u l a t i o n AE-9
SOURCE: ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
226
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Velvet Care-Lotion Wt% Ingredients: Phase A: 2.0 P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 M e t h y l g l u c o s e D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care 4 5 0 ) 2.0 A p r i c o t 011 1.o S a f f 1 ower 01 1 3.5 C y c l ometh i cone 3.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) 2.0 Octyl Stearate (Tegosoft 0 s ) Rose E x t r a c t Q.S. P.S. Lavender E x t r a c t Phase B: G1y c e r i n 3.0 82.1 Water Phase C : 0.2 Carbomer 941 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t P) 0.8 Phase D : Sodium H y d r o x i d e (10% s o l u t i o n ) 0.4 Phase E : Q.S. Fragrance Preservatives P.S. Procedure: 1 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o 8OC. 2 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o 8OC. 3 . Add A t o B w i t h a -a i t a t i o n . 4 . Homogeni ze 5 . D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r add t o A/E. Homogenize. 6 . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . 7 . Add phase D / E . S t i r . 8 . Mix u n t i l v i s c o s i t y p r o f i l e i s obtained.
J.n_ar_e_d_i entsi.
ol_w-.AH.A-LQtion. w_i.th LaC_ti.c..A&i-d
Wto/, Phase A : C e t e a r e t h - 1 5 ( a n d ) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Tego Care 215) 6.0 Mineral O i l 4.0 Octyl Stearate (Tegosoft 0 s ) 5.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Tegosoft CT) 5.0 S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (Tego A l k a n o l 1 8 ) 5.0 Phase 8 : Glycerin 3.0 69.65 Water Phase C : L a c t i c A c i d (85%) 2.35 Q.S. NaOH (10% a q . s o l u t i o n ) Perfume, P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q.S. Procedure: Heat A and B t o 8OC and m i x . Homogenize. Cool w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 40C. Add Phase C and c o o l t o 30C o r l o w e r . A d j u s t pH t o 4 . 0 - 4 . 5 w i t h NaOH.
SOURCE:
G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions
227
Cleansing Lotion w i t h Ethanol
Water:in-Oi_l
n i . pA::a:?P-l35, PEG-30 D i p o l yhydroxystearate Arlaaol HD, Isohexadecane Caprylic/caprio t r i g l y c e r i d e s 01o c t y l adi pat e Mineral o i l S i l i c a dimethyl s i l y l a t e
B) G l y c e r i n
w b 3.5 8.0 2.0 2.0 8.0 0.5 4.0
MgS04-7H20, Magnesium s u l f a t e Water Preservative, Quaternium 15
0.5 48.5 9.5.
25.0 9.5.
C) Ethanol Perfume
Procoduro: Heat (A) and (8) t o 75C t o 85C. Slowly add ( 8 ) t o (A) w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Honoyenize thoroughly f o r 1 minute. Allow t o cool t o t30C w h i l e s t i r r j n y . Add phase (C) slowly w h i l e s t i r r i n g intensively
.
Comments: V i s c o s i t y : 7,000 mPa s (Brookftuld LVt/spinJla Cfrpm 6) Formula CP 1193 HydrgaJcotipl i q . f#ipbi knwsd.i..ant 8: A Isopropyl l a n o l a t e Arlasoive 200 i i q u i d (72% a c t i v e ) poe 20 isohexadecyl
1 .0
3.9
Utlt6r
Arlamol E pop 15 s t a a r y l ether 6 Hydroxyethyl c e l u I one Carbomer 934
Water, deionized C NaOH (10% W D Alcohol,
vy
%$~ Waqueous)
SDA Formula No. 40
8.0 0.2 0.5 54.9
0.5 20.0
Proparation: ;tl half o f Heat (A) to 75C. Disperse H y c J c ~ o x y e l I i y l ~ ~ l 1 u 1 u tOI the water a i d Carbomer 934 t n the olliet h a l f , co~nbirie. H e a l ( 8 ) l o 75C. Add ( 8 ) l u (A) w i l h J y i L a t i u n . S l i t . f i v e minute& acid rdd (C;. Cool to 3SC and add (0). S t i r t o room Lempevrture. F ~ ttlul I a AE-8 SOURCE: I C I Surfaotantr: Suygorted Formulation8
228
Cosmetic and Toiletry formulations
Water-In-Oil
Mineral O i l Lotions
F o r m u l a SK-6, a u n i q u e Gel Base, s e r v e s as a s t a r t i n g p o i n t i n f o r m u l a t i n g W/O emu1 s i ons w h i c h have e x c e p t i o n a l w a t e r r e p e l 1 ency and p l e a s a n t a p p l i c a t i o n f e e l w i t h o u t t h e u s u a l g r e a s i n e s s o r t a c k i n e s s c h a r a c t e r i s t i c o f many W/O e m u l s i o n s . Gel Base Innredi ents: A A r l a c e l 186 G l y c e r o l O l e a t e and P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l B S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n , USP Preservative
W B 10.0 90.0
q. s
Preparation : Add ( B ) t o ( A ) i n s m a l l i n c r e m e n t s , m i x i n g t h o r o u g h l y between a d d i t i o n s . As t h e a d d i t i o n i s c o n t i n u e d , t h e p r o d u c t t h i c k e n s t o form a viscous translucent g e l . F o r m u l a SK-6 W a t e r - i n-Oi 1 M i n e r a l O i 1 L o t i o n The Gel Base c o n c e p t o f f o r m u l a t i n g can be used i n p r e p a r i n g w a t e r - i n - o i l l o t i o n s w h i c h have t h e u n i q u e p r o p e r t y o f w a t e r r e p e l l e n c y w i t h o u t an o i l y f e e l . A s m a l l q u a n t i t y o f Tween 8 0 , a h y d r o p h i l i c s u r f a c t a n t , i s added t o p r o m o t e e m u l s i o n s t a b i l i t y . A l t h o u g h t h e Gel Base i n t h e f o l l o w i n g f o r m u l a i s shown as a s e p a r a t e e n t i t y , i t may b e p r e p a r e d i n s i t u b y r e p l a c i n g t h e 30% Gel Base w i t h 2 7 % S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n and 3% A r l a c e l 186 ( t h e r a t i o o f 9 t o 1 shown i n F o r m u l a S K - 6 ) .
Ingredi e n t E A F o r m u l a SK-6 Gel Base Mineral o i l C e r e s i n wax Beeswax Tween 8 0 P o l y s o r b a t e 8 0 B Water Preservative
w v y J 30.0 15.0 0.5
0.5 0.5 53.5 9,s.
Preparation: Heat ( A ) t o 7 0 C . Heat ( 8 ) t o 7 2 C . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h c o n t i n uous a g i t a t i o n . C o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Replace water l o s t by evaporation. F o r m u l a SK-7
SOURCE:
ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Lotions
Wt-%
hXLEd.ient3.;. A:
229
1.3
Veegum Water Magnesium S u l p h a t e
55.7
0.5 9.0 10.0 7.5 9.0
8: M i n e r a l O i 1 , L i g h t Polysynlane Nimlesterol D Amerchol L101 70% S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n W i tcamide 511
5.0 2.0
Preservative
4,s.
Procedure: Add t h e Veegum t o t h e w a t e r s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g c o n t i n u a l l y u n t i l s m o o t h . Add t h e magnesium s u l p h a t e a n d m i x u n t i l s m o o t h . B l e n d B w e l l a n d a d d A t o B; m i x u n t i l s m o o t h and u n i f o r m . Packaging: T h i s f o r m u l a is a r i c h , p o u r a b l e o r p u m p a b l e l o t i o n a n d may be dispensed f r o m a s u i t a b l e g l a s s o r p l a s t i c b o t t l e . Comments : T h i s f o r m u l a i s an e l e g a n t , e c o n o m i c a l , a n d e a s i l y p r e p a r e d water-in-oil l o t i o n for s o f t e n i n g a n d m o i s t u r i z i n g d r y s k i n . The u s e o f Veegum as an e m u l s i o n s t a b i l i z e r a l l o w s a r e l a t i v e l y l a r g e i n t e r n a l phase w i t h o u t s a c r i f i c i n g p r o d u c t s t a b i l i t y . ? h e amount o f Veegum u s e d c o n t r o l s t h e v i s c o s i t y . I n a d d i t i o n , Veegum c o n t r i b u t e s t o t h e r i c h , n o n g r e a s y f e e l i m p a r t e d b y t h e h i g h l y e m o l l i e n t o i l phase. T h i s f o r m u l a w o u l d make an e l e g a n t a d d i t i o n t o a t r e a t m e n t l i n e as a super m o i s t u r i z e r f o r d r y s k i n . The CTFA a d o p t e d name f o r Veegum i s magnesium a l u m i n u m s i l l cate.
Hand L0-t-i on I ngr_edl e n t s : G l y c e r y l Monostearate ( S . E . ) C e t y l A1 coho1 S i l i c o n e 2 0 0 Oil L a n o l i n 0 11 Polysynlane Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e P r e s e r v a t i ve Water SOURCE: P o l y e s t e r C o r p . :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
i(Jt %
ad.
2.7 I .5 1.5 2.0 3.0 0.3 0.2 100.0
Section Vlll Shampoos
230
Shampoos
231
_________ A n t i - D a n d r u f f Shampoo w i t h Z i n c P y r i t h i o n e T h i s a n t i - d a n d r u f f shampoo, w h i c h c o n t a i n s c a t i o n i c c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t s , uses z i n c p y r i t h i o n e as t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t . The z i n c p y r i t h i o n e i s k e p t suspended u s i n g C a r b o p o l ETO 2020. W S I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 38.90 2 . Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer/ C a r b o p o l ETD 2020 1.oo 3 . Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 1 8 % ) 0.10 Part B: 4. Propylene Glycol 5.00 5. Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 2 9 % ) / S t a n d a p o l WAQ-LC 16.00 6 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( 3 m o l e , 3O%)/Standapol ES-3 16.00 7 . Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e / I n c r o n a m 30 4.00 Part C: 8 . D e i o n i z e d Water 12.00 9 . P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - l O / U c a r e Polymer JR-400 0.25 0.30 1 0 . DMDM H y d a n t o i n/G1 y d a n t 1 1 Sodi urn H y d r o x i d e ( 18%) 1.30 Part D: 12.Polyquaterniurn-39/Merquat 3330 1.oo 1 3 . D i m e t h i c o n e Copolyol/Dow C o r n i n g 5324 F l u i d 0.20 1 4 . Z i n c P y r i t h i o n e ( 4 8 % ) / Z i n c Ornadine FPS 2 50 1 5 . F r a g r a n c e / S p i c y F l o r a l F r a g r a n c e #A41073 0.40 IG.FD&C B l u e #I( 0 . 1 % ) 1 .05 C o l o r , Odor, Appearance: Opaque, l i g h t b l u e , v i s c o u s l i q u i d A c t i v e s (190): 1 1 . 1 4 pH: 5 . 8 - 6 . 2 V i s c o s i t y (cP) : 6,000-9,000 Y i e l d V a l u e ( d y n e s / c m 2 ) : 180-250 S t a b i l i t y : Passed 45C, a c c e l e r a t e d - 2 8 days Freeze/thaw-5 c y c l e s P r e p a r a t i o n Procedure: Part A: 1 . D i s p e r s e Carbopol ETD 2020 i n warm (45C) d e i o n i z e d w a t e r u s i n g r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Reduce m i x i n g speed and m i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s . P a r t i a l l y n e u t r a l i z e w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e . Part B: 2 . Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r t o P a r t A u s i n g s l o w m i x i n g . P a r t C: 3 . D i s p e r s e Ucare JR-400 i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r ( h e a t t o h e l p h y d r a t i o n ) . Add G l y d a n t and sodium h y d r o x i d e . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add P a r t C t o b a t c h . P a r t D: 4 . Add P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r t o b a t c h . Special Notes & Precautions: 1 . Do n o t u s e a c h e l a t i n g a g e n t as t h i s w i l l d e a c t i v a t e t h e z i n c pyrithione. 2 . When u s i n g z i n c p y r t h i o n e , be s u r e i t i s u n i f o r m and has n o t frozen. 3 . Assay f o r z i n c p y r i t h i o n e c a n be p e r f o r n i e d u s i n g an i o d i n e t i t r a t i o n . C a l l O l i n (203-271-4000) f o r t h e p r o c e d u r e . SOURCE: B . F . G o o d r i c h C o , : F o r m u l a t i o n COO75
.
I
232
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
C l e a r an_d M i l d Shampop T h i s shampoo i s n e a r w a t e r - w h i t e i n c l a r i t y a n d c o l o r . T h e a m p h o t e r i c s u r f a c t a n t , i n c o m b i n a t i o n w i t h SLES a n d ALS, i s the basis o f t h i s gentle-cleansing formula. Addition o f only 0 . 6 0 w t % B e n e c e l HPMC i s n e e d e d t o b o o s t t h e v i s c o s i t y from 2 , 9 0 0 c p s (mPas) t o 9 , 5 0 0 c p s ( m P a s ) , y i e l d i n g a r i c h , h i g h l y v i s c o u s shampoo t h a t p o u r s s m o o t h l y . T h i s i s p o s s i b l e d u e t o t h e t h i c k e n i n g e f f i c i e n c y o f Benecel and t h e p s e u d o p l a s t i c rheology i t imparts Ingredients: D i s t i l l e d water Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e , 30% D i s o d 1 um c o c o a m p h o d i a c e t a t e , 50% S o d i u m l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , 60% B e n e c e l MP 9 4 3 R DMDM h y d a n t o i n Methyl paraben Citric acid
Wt%
q.s. t o 1 0 0 . 0 0 27.50 6.90 5,70 0.60 0.30 0.10 t o pH 5 . 5
Procedure: 1 D i s p e r s e Benecel b y a d d i n g t o t h e v o r t e x o f w e l l - a g i t a t e d w a t e r . H e a t i n g t o 40-4513 w i l l a c c e l e r a t e h y d r a t i o n . M i x u n t i l f u l l y dissolved. 2 . I n a separate c o n t a i n e r , d i s p e r s e t h e methyl paraben i n t h e DMDM h y d a n t o i n . Add t o t h e B e n e c e l s o l u t i o n . M i x u n t i l f u l l y dissolved 3 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , o n e a t a t i m e , m i x i n g w e l l between a d d i t i o n s . 4 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 5 When t e m p e r a t u r e f a l l s t o b e l o w 40C, a d d f r a g r a n c e . S t a b i l i t y o f C l e a r and M i l d Shampoo V i s c o s i t y , c p s (mPas) B r o o k f i e l d LVT, 3 0 r p m , 25C Room T e m p e r a t u r e 50C -_---24 h o u rs 9,120 __-___ 3 days 9,850 11,900 11,900 1 week 11,700 10,800 2 weeks 4 weeks 12,500 11,300 T h i s shampoo e x h i b i t e d n o c h a n g e a f t e r e x p o s u r e to t h r e e freeze-thaw cycles SOURCE: A q u a l o n D i v i s i o n / H e r c u l e s
I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n BO2-04W
Shampoos
233
Coconut S h m o o (35% Real Soap) Emery 621 Coconut Fatty Acid (acid value 263) Caustic potash (100%) Water
Wt% 29.6 7.9
to 100.0
Procedure: Dissolve the caustic in the necessary amount of water, heating to 49-54C (120-130F), then add the fatty acid in a slow steady stream. Agitate while mixing the fatty acid and caustic until saponification is complete. The reaction mixture should be heated to 66-71C (150-160F) during the final stages of saponification. Check the neutrality of the soap and adjust as necessary. Perfume as desired. Allow the soap to stand and settle for several days at near freezing temperatures, if possible, and decant or filter the soap. Properties and Variations: This soap is characterized by its clarity and profuse sudsing. If it clouds on standing, a trace of sequestering agent (0.1-0.5%) will restore brilliance. Alcohol may be substituted for a portion of the water in any of these formulas. Alcohol will improve clarity and increase the resistance of the soap to low temperature precipitation and gel formation, but it will also reduce foaming. Carbitol, glycerine, and various glycols may be used to increase the viscosity of the soap. Perfumes are generally used in small amounts to impart a distinctive and pleasant odor. Coconut-Oleic Shampoo (35% Real Soap) Emery 621 Coconut Fatty Acid (acid value 263) Emersol 221 Oleic Acid (acid value 203) Caustic potash (100%) Water
a
15.1 15.1 7.1 to 100.0
Procedure: Blend coconut and oleic acids and proceed as for the formulation above, Coconut Shampoo. Perfume as desired. Properties and Variations: This shampoo exhibits good foaming and foam stability. It will have only a trace of color. If a gold-colored shampoo is preferred, use of Emersol 210 Oleic Acid (A) is suggested. SOURCE: Henkel Corp., Emery Group: Fatty Acids and Their Water Soluble Soaps: Suggested Formulations
234
Cosmetic and Toiletfy Formulations
Cream Shampoo T h i s opaque shampoo i s a s o f t cream s u i t a b l e f o r t u b e d i s p e n s i n g . M i l d i n g r e d i e n t s such as Jordapon C I - 7 5 , Mafo CSB-50, and Mazox CAPA make t h i s system g e n t l e enough t o use e v e r y d a y .
Part: A
I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Dei o n i zed Water Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d / J o r d a p o n CI-75 Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e / S t e p a n o l WA-Extra G1 y c o l S t e a r a t e / M a p e g EGMS Sodium I s e t h i o n a t e , 5 6 % / W i t c o n a t e N I S M e t h y l Paraben Na4EDTA
Wt$ 58.9
19.2 6.7 2.0 3.0 0.2 0.2
Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e / M a f o CSB-50 Cocamidopropyl Amine Oxide/Mazox C A P A P r o p y l ene G 1 y c o l Cocami d e DEA/Mazami de JT-128
2.0 3.3 2.0 2.0
Q u a t e r n i um 15/Dowi c i 1 200 Fragrance C i t r i c Acid
0.2 0.3
Q.S.
pH: 6.2-6.7 V i s c o s i t y : 1 0 0 , 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d T B C 0 . 3 rpm) Appearance: W h i t e p e a r l e s c e n t s o f t cream
Procedure: B l e n d t h e p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t i n g t o 65C t o d i s s o l v e a l l s o l i d s . Remove t h e h e a t and add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . When u n i f o r m , c o o l t o 40C and add t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s . P r o d u c t w i l l b e n o n - v i s c o u s a t f i r s t , and w i l l d e v e l o p i n t o a cream o v e r n i g h t .
SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n A - 1 1 3
Shampoos
235
Crystal Clear Conditioninq ShamDoos These are crystal clear, mild formulations. Sandopan DTC acid is a multi-functional surfactant which also improves the cationic deposition of cationic polymers. By reducing the wash-off of the cationic polymer, Sandopan DTC acid can improve conditioning of the hair and skin. Crystal Clear Luxury Shampoo Inqredients: wt% Standapol A 33.00 Sandopan DTC Acid 8.00 *Monamid 716 3.00 *Polymer JR 30M 0.25 Versene NA 0.10 Glydant 0.50 Deionized Water 55.10 Fragrance 0.05 Potassium Hydroxide (To pH=5.5) qs Properties: Viscosity: 2500 Ross Miles Foam Height: 195/190 % Solids: 22.50 *Viscosity can be altered by increasing/decreasing Polymer JR or Monamid 716. Crvstal Clear Conditionins ShamDoo Inqredients: Wt% Standapol A 33.00 Sandopan DTC Acid 8.00 *Monamid 716 3.00 *Polymer JR 30M 0.50 Versene NA 0.10 Glydant 0.50 Deionized Water 52.85 Fragrance 0.05 Potassium Hydroxide (To pH=5.5) qs Properties: Viscosity: 3000 Ross Miles Foam Height: 190/185 % Solids: 22.75 *Viscosity can be altered by increasing/decreasing Polymer JR or Monamid 716. Procedure: Hydrate Polymer JR in about 1/2 of the water by slowly sifting it in with moderate stirring. In a separate vessel, add the Sandopan DTC acid to the other 1/2 of the water. Neutralize this mixture to pH=5.5 with potassium hydroxide. Add remaining ingredients in order, mixing well after each addition. Finally, add the polymer solution and mix well. Adjust final pH to 5.5-6.0 if needed. SOURCE: Clariant Carp.: Ref: CL29-49: CHS-40, 41
236
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Deodorizing Shampoo Inqredients: Wt$ Phase A : Water 32.60 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.10 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (28%) 17.50 Sodium Laureth Sulfate (28% 2M E.O.) 20.00 2.50 PEG-20 Glyceryl Laurate (Tagat L ) 2.50 PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (Tegosoft GC) 2.50 PEG-18 Glyceryl Oleate/Cocoate (Antil 171) Glycol Distearate (Tegin EGS) 3.00 Zinc Ricinoleate (and) Triethanolamine (and) 1.80 Dipropylene Glycol (and) Lactic Acid (Tego Deo HY 77) Phase B: Water 10.00 Preservatives Q.S. Q.S. Fragrance 7.50 Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Tego Betaine L 7) Citric Acid (20% solution) to pH 7.0 Sodium Chloride (25% solution) Q.S. Procedure: 1. Heat Phase A to 70C. Add components in order, mixing well between additions. Avoid foam. 2. Beain coolins. Slowlv cool to 35-40C. Some of the water of Phase B can 6 e used t o start the cooling. 3. Add the ingredients of Phase B. 4. Adjust pH and viscosity. Conditioninq Shampoo for Treated Hair Inqredients: wt% Tetrasodium EDTA 0.1 41.5 Water Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (28% 2M. E.O.) 20.0 25.0 Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (28%) Quaternium-80 (Abil Quat 3272) 0.3 Dimethicone Copolyol (Abil B 8851) 0.3 0.3 Dimethicone Copolyol (Abil B 88183) 1.0 Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine (Abil B 9950) to pH 6.5 Citric Acid Q.S. Fragrance Q.S. Color Q.S. Preservative 1.5 PEG-18 Glyceryl Oleate/Cocoate (Antil 171) 7.0 Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Tego Betaine L-7) 3.0 Glycol Distearate (and) Steareth-4 (Tego Pearl N 100) Q.S. Ammonium Chloride (25% solution) Procedure: 1. Dissolve the Tetrasodium EDTA in the water. 2. Add ingredients in order, mixing between additions. Avoid air entrapment. 3. Slowly mix in the Antil 171. Mix until dispersed. 4. Add the Tego Betaine L-7. 5. Add the Tego Pearl N 100. 6. Adjust viscosity with the 25% solution of Ammonium Chloride SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggested Formulations
Shampoos
237
Frequent Use ShamDoo This pearlescent shampoo provides gentle cleansing with protective conditioning. Glucamate DOE-120 is used to thicken this mild cleansing system which contains cocoamphodiacetate and sulfosuccinate. Glucam E-20 and Ucare Polymer JR-400 have been included for humectance and conditioning, respectively. This formulation is recommended for normal to dry hair. Inqredients: Wt$ Texapon NSO (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) 7.00 Dehyton G (Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate) 3.00 Texapon SB-3 (Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate) 1.00 Euperlan PK 3000-AM (Glycol Distearate and Laureth-4 and 1.00 Cocamidopropyl Betaine) Glucamate DOE-120 (PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate) 1.50 Deionized Water 84.30 Ucare Polymer JR-400 (Polyquaternium-10) 0.25 Glucam E-20 (Methyl Gluceth-20) 1.50 Sodium Chloride 0.45 Preservative and Fragrance q.s. Procedure: Disperse Ucare Polymer JR-400 in water with moderate agitation and gentle heating to 50C. Add Glucamate DOE-120 and continue heating until dissolved. Remove heat. Add the surfactants and Glucam E-20. Add preservative and fragrance. Adjust pH to 6.5. Package. Performance Data: Viscosity: 4,300 cps (ZOC, LVT, 3, 12 rpm) pH: 6.5 Formulation E941-129-10 Daily Use Shampoo Glucamate DOE-120 is used to thicken this mild surfactant system in conjunction with the lauryl glucoside. The cocamidopropyl betaine enhances the foam feel. Ucare Polymer LX provides the light conditioning effect desired in this daily use shampoo. In total, the washing active substances for this pearlescent formulation are 11%. Insredients: Wt% Standapol ES-2 (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) 24.00 Velvetex BK-35 (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) 6.00 Plantaren 1200 (Lauryl Glucosidel 5.00 Euperlan PK 3000-AM 1.50 Glucamate DOE-120 (PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate) 1.00 Ucare Polymer LK (Polyquaternium-10) 0.35 Deionized Water 61.85 Sodium Chloride 0.30 Preservative and Fragrance C3.s Procedure: Disperse Ucare Polymer LK in water with moderate agitation and gentle heating to 50C. Add Glucarnate DOE-120 and continue heating until the Glucamate DOE-120 has dissolved. Add the surfactants and the Euperlan with continued stirring. Add the sodium chloride, preservative and fragrance. Adjust the pH to 6.5. Package. Formulation E921-146-4 SOURCE: Amerchol: Suggested Formulations
238
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
1-nqredi e n t s : D i s t i 1l e d water S o d i u m l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , 28% C o c a m i d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e , 35% S o d i u m l a u r o y l s a r c o s i n a t e , 30% PEG-1 50 d i s t e a r a t e B e n e c e l MP 943 R Monochloroisothiazolinone a n d m e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e ,
Wt.%
to 1 0 0 . 0 0 19.60 11 .oo 9.60 2.90 1.10 1.5% 0.08
Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e t h e Benecel by adding t o t h e v o r t e x o f w e l l - a g i t a t e d w a t e r . H e a t i n g t o 40-45C w i l l a c c e l e r a t e h y d r a t i o n . M i x u n t i l f u l l y dissolved. 2 . Add t h e s u r f a c t a n t s , one a t a t i m e , m i x i n g w e l l b e t w e e n e a c h addition. 3 . H e a t t o 7 0 - 7 5 C . Add t h e PEG-150 d i s t e a r a t e . M i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Turn h e a t o f f . 4 . When t e m p e r a t u r e r e a c h e s 40C o r b e l o w , a d d f r a g r a n c e and preservative. F o r m u l a B02-02W
Self-Adjusting
C o n d i t i o n i n g Shampoo
W t 010 Ingredients: q.s t o 100.00 D i s t i 1l e d water 22.25 T E A - l a u r y l s u l f a t e , 40% 7.10 D i h y d r o x y e t h y l t a l l o w g l y c i n a t e , 40% L a u r a m i d e DEA 3.50 Cocodimonium h y d r o l y z e d a n i m a l p r o t e i n 0.80 B e n e c e l MP 943 R 0.60 Methylchloroisothiazolinone and m e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e , 1.5% 0.08 C i t r i c acid t o pH 5 . 5
Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e t h e Benecel by adding t o t h e v o r t e x o f w e l l - a g i t a t e d w a t e r . H e a t i n g t o 40-45C w i l l a c c e l e r a t e h y d r a t i o n . M i x u n t i l f u l l y dissolved. 2 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s , one a t a t i m e , m i x i n g w e l l between each a d d i t i o n . 3 . A d j u s t t o pH 5 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 4 . When t e m p e r a t u r e f a l l s t o b e l o w 40C, a d d f r a g r a n c e . F o r m u l a 802-03W
SOURCE: A q u a l o n D i v i s i o n ,
Hercules I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shampoos
239
Gentle Shamuoo This shampoo provides gentle and thorough cleansing, while imparting softness and manageability to hair. Inqredients: Water Sodium Chloride Sodium Laureth (2) Sulfate (25%) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (30%) Monalac MAB Monalac MPL
wt. 29.5 1.0 35.0 27.5 5.0 2.0
Adjust the pH to 6 . 0 Appearance: Clear viscous liquid Viscosity at 25C: 23,000 CP Solids ( % ) : 20 Features of Monalac MAB: Effective conditioning to skin and hair Provides mild cleansing High foaming primary surfactant Excellent viscosity building properties Anti-irritant for anionics and cationics Compatible with all surfactant types Gentle Shampoo This shampoo provides gentle and thorough cleansing, while imparting softness and manageability to hair Inqredients: Water Sodium Chloride Sodium Laureth (2) Sulfate (25%) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (30%) Monalac MO Monalac MPL Adjust the pH to 6.0 Appearance: Clear viscous liquid Viscosity at 25C: 7500 CP Solids ( % ) : 20 Features of Monalac MO: Lather and foam enhancement Extra conditioning for skin and hair Excellent viscosity building properties Contributes gentle cleansing Low irritation potential Cationic at acid pH
SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Suggested Formulations
Wt%
29.5 1.0 35.0 27.5 5.0
2.0
240
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hair and Body Shampoo Raw Materials: wt% Plantaren 2000 UP/Laurvl Glucose 5.0 Texapon NSO/Sodium Lauieth Sulfate 25.0 Gluadin WK/Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein 8.0 Gluadin WQ/Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein 3.0 Eumulgin L/PPG-l-PEG-9-Lauryl Glycol Ether Glucamate DOE 120 0.5 NaCl 1.5 ad 100 Water, preservative, perfume pH Value: 6.0 WAS: 12.5 Viscosity mPas: approx. 1500 Preparation: Mix all components successively at room temperature while stirring. The pH value is adjusted with citric acid. Formulation No. 94/218/28 Shampoo
Raw Materials: Texapon NSO/Sodium Laureth Sulfate Dehyton K/Cocamidopropyl Betaine Lamesoft PW 25/Cetyl Palmitate (and) Beheneth-10 (and) Hydrogenated Castor Oil (and) Glyceryl Stearate Cosmedia Guar C 261 N/Guar Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride Methocel E4M Premium EP/Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Water Preservatives Viscosity mPas: 6000 pH value: 5.5
Wtrt;
40.0 12.5 5.0
0.25 1.5 40.75 n.B.
Preparation in the Laboratory: Of Methocel E4M Premium EP and Water has to be manufactured a clear swelling. In this swelling Cosmedia C 261 N has to be strewed and homogeneous distributed. With addition of citric acid the pH value will be slightly acidified, which means that Cosmedia Guar is also starting to swell. After completed swelling Texapon NSO, Dehyton K and Lamesoft PW 45 will be stirred homogeneous into the swelling. At the end the pH value will be focused. Formulation No. 96/020/3
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested Formulations
Shampoos
241
High Performance Low Irritation Shaumoo Inqredients: Plantaren 2000 Standapol EA-2 Velvetex BK-35 Nutrilan I Citric Acid Fragrance Water, preservative
s,wt/wt 15.0 15.0 12.5 1.5 to pH 6.0-6.5 q.s
Balance
Procedure: Charge kettle with water; while stirring, add the remaining ingredients in the order listed. Adjust viscosity with sodium chloride. NOTE: Gel-like viscosities can be obtained via use of thickeners, such as PEG-150 Distearate. Comments: This is a very high quality shampoo that combines very low irritation with excellent foam characteristics, while leaving the hair in a very manageable condition. Formula H-4999
Low Irritation Conditioning Shampoo Inqredients: Plantaren 2000 Standapol ES-2 Standamid KD Cetiol HE Cosmedia Guar C-261 Euperlan PK-810 Citric Acid Fragrance Water, preservative
$Wt/Wt 12.0 24.0 3.0 1.5 0.75 4.0 to pH 6.5 q.s.
Balance
Procedure: Charge kettle with water; while stirring, add the first three ingredients in the order listed. Pre-slurry the Cosmedia Guar C-261 and Cetiol HE, and add to the batch followed by the Euperlan PK-810. Adjust pH with citric acid and viscosity with sodium chloride or other viscosifiers. Comments: By taking advantage of the ability of Plantaren 2000 to enhance cationic polymer deposition, a mild 2 in 1 shampoo is created. Formula H-5001 SOURCE: Henkel Corp./Emery Group: Plantaren Suggested Formulations
242
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
____--__ Low-Cost Sham= An e c o n o m i c a l f o r m u l a t i o n w i t h a c o l d - m i x p r o v i d e s v e r y good p e r f o r m a n c e .
procedure which
wts
I n s r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: D e i o n i z e d Water 64.12 0.08 H y d r o x y p r o p y l Methylcellulose/Methocel 4 0 - 1 0 0 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 0.04 0.16 N a 4 E DTA Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e / M a f o CSB-50 6.00 Ammoni u m L a u r y l S u l fate/Rhodapon L-22 14.40 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e , GO%/Rhodapon 201-10 10.80 3.00 Cocami de DEA/Mazami de JT-128 L i no1 eami de DEA/Mazami de SS-10 0.60 Fragrance 0.10 Preservative/Germaben I 1 0.70 C i t r i c Acid Q.S. Sodium C h l o r i d e Q.S. pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 3 , 5 0 0 - 4 , 5 0 0 cps ( B r o o k f i e l d #2 @ 6rpm) Appearance: P a l e , s t r a w - c o l o r e d c l e a r l i q u i d Procedure: Disperse hydroxypropyl methylcellulose i n t o s t i r r i n g water; t h e n add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e t o i n i t i a t e h y d r a t i o n . Add Na4EDTA and l e t m i x 15-20 m i n u t e s . Add t h e Mafo CSB-50 f o l l o w e d by t h e ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e . When u n i f o r m , add t h e sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e and m i x u n t i l g e l - f r e e . Add p r e m i x e d Mazamide JT-128 and Mazamide S S - 1 0 , o p t i o n a l l y w i t h t h e f r a g r a n c e . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and a d j u s t pH and v i s c o s i t y as needed. F o r m u l a t i o n A-705 o n i ng_-Sha_mpoo Condi t i.~ -
T h i s f o r m u l a can f u n c t i o n as a c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo f o r a m e d i c a t e d o r d a n d r u f f shampoo. I t e x h i b i t s a creamy, compact s o a p - t y p e foam, e x c e l l e n t r i n s i n g , good c o n d i t i o n i n g p r o p e r t i e s , and m i l d n e s s . The v i s c o s i t y o f t h e p r o d u c t i s a b o u t 1,000 cps. WVOh 1-nqredi ent_j.Lrad% N-ame: 40.0 Sodium C12-C15 P a r e t h - 3 S u l f o n a t e / A v a n e l S-30 10.0 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e / M a f o CAB 10.0 Laurami n e 0x1 de/Mazox LDA Laurami de DEA 4.0 M e t h y l Paraben 0.25 C i t r i c Acid t o pH 7 . 0 Perfume & C o l o r As d e s i r e d D e i on1 zed Water Q . S . t o 100.0 Procedure: Heat Lauramide DEA t o 40C. Add t o r e s t o f i n g r e d i e n t s a t 40C. Cool t o 35C t h e n add p e r f u m e and c o l o r . Cool t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Formul a t ion A-26 SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shampoos
243
Mild Shampoo with Panthenol This luxury shampoo with a high level of Panthenol delivers high shine and conditioning to the hair. Sandopan LS-24 is a mild, multi-functional surfactant that acts as a hydrotrope in this formulation to prevent latent clouding. Inqredients: Sodium Myreth Sulfate Cocoamidopropyl Betaine Lauramide DEA Sandopan LS-24 (Sodium Laureth-13 Carboxylate) PEG 150 Distearate Deionized Water Dow Corning 193 (Dimethicone Copolyol) D-Panthenol Germaben I 1 (Preservative)
Wt%
5.00 9.20 3.00 0.50 0.50 77.30 1.00
2.50 1.00
Procedure: Charge first four ingredients to vessel. Heat to 55C with stirring. Add water and cool to 45C while mixing. Add remaining ingredients. Adjust pH to 6.0 with citric acid. Properties: Appearance: Clear Yellow Liquid pH: 5.75-6.25 % Solids: 17.4 Shake foam: 475/16.2 Viscosity: 2,800-3,200 cps Technical Bulletin CHS-Z7/REF.: CH9-233-03R Clear Mink Oil ShamDoo Inqredients: Sandopan DTC acid (Trideceth-7 Carbo ylic Acid) Oil of Mink (AAA Refined) Standapol A (Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate Myrj 52s (PEG-40 Stearate) Deionized Water Fragrance Potassium Hydroxide
Wt% 19.00 1.00 16.50 5.00 qs qs
qs
Procedure: Combine Sandopan DTC acid and the water while mixing. Neutralize to pH=5.5 with Potassium Hydroxide. Heat to 80C and add other ingredients in order with mixing. Properties: Appearance: Clear Homogeneous Liquid pH: 5.5-6.0 Viscosity: 1,300-1,400 cps Ross-Miles Foam Height: 185 nun/80 nun Formula CHS-O6/REF: CL29-37
SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Suggested Formulations
244
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Neutralizinu Conditionina Ethnic Shampoo This is a clear, neutralizing shampoo for use in combination with a Creme Relaxer. Its low pH neutralizes the effect of the Creme Relaxer. Sandopan DTC acid, used as the secondary surfactant, contributes to the mildness of the surfactant system. Inqredients: Water Ammonium Lauryl Ether Sulfate (28%) Lauramide DEA Sandopan DTC acid Cartaretin F-4 Sodium Chloride Ucare Polymer JR-400 Dye, Fragrance
qt%
77.5 13.9 2.8 3.3 1.0 1.0 0.5 qs
Procedure: Heat the water to 50C and sprinkle in the Polymer JR-400 while stirring. When the Polymer JR-400 is completely in solution, remove heat, add remaining ingredients, stirring after each addition and adjust the pH to 5-5.5 with citric acid. Properties: Appearance: Clear Yellow Liquid pH: 5-5.5 Viscosity: 600-800 cps Ross-Miles Foam Height: 12Omm/12Omm REF: CL9-61-01; CHS-01 Mild Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Inqredients: Standapol ES-50 Sandopan DTC acid Lauramide DEA Zinc Omadine (48%) Emerest 2355 Sodium Chloride Deionized Water Fragrance, Color
Wt%
21.00 5.00 4.20
3.12 1.75 1.50 63.43 qs
Procedure: Add the ingredients in order to the water. Mix thoroughly after each addition, Slight warming may aid in mixing. Melt the Emerest 2355 prior to addition. Mix thoroughly and allow to cool to room temperature. Sodium Chloride may be used to adjust the viscosity. Properties: Appearance: Opaque liquid REF: CL2-235: CHS-22 SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Suggested Formulations
Shampoos
245
P e a r 1e d ShatnDOO W B I.nAredh~c!entsr. Water 35.25 30.00 Ammonium L a u r e t h ( 2 ) S u l f a t e ( 2 5 % ) Ammoni urn L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 2 8 % ) 20,OO M o n a t e r i c 9495 10.00 0.75 C e t y l t r imoni urn C h l o r i d e 1 .oo Cerasynt I P M o n a s i l PLN 3.00 Procedure: B l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s , h e a t t o 65-7OC. S t i r , c o o l t o 30-35C. A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . Add c o l o r , f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e a s r e q u i r e d t h e n p a c k a g e . P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t ie s : Appearance: P e a r l e d Viscous L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y : A p p r o x i m a t e l y 11 , 0 0 0 c p F o r m u l a t i o n F-727
C1 e a r Sh_a_mpoo Wt% Lngredi e n t s . Water 19.8 Ammoni um L a u r e t h ( 1 ) S u l f a t e ( 2 6 % ) 57.7 M o n a f a x MAP-230 12.5 M o n a t e r i c 9495 8.0 2.0 P h o s p h o l ip i d PTC Procedure: B l e n d i n o r d e r l i s t e d . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 t o 7 . 0 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , p r e s e r v a t i v e , a n d p a c k a g e . A p p e a r a n c e . C1 e a r v i s c o u s 1 iq u i d V i s c o s i t y : 1 0 , 8 0 0 CP S o l i d s , 24% F o r m u l a t i o n F-709
C l e a r G e l Shampoo Ingredients: _ W t_% Water 19.8 Ammonium L a u r e t h ( 1 ) S u l f a t e ( 2 6 % ) 57.7 M o n a f a x MAP-230 12.5 M o n a t e r i c CAB-LC 8.0 2.0 P h o s p h o l ip i d PTC Procedure: B l e n d i n o r d e r l i s t e d . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 t o 7 . 0 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , p r e s e r v a t i v e , a n d p a c k a g e . A p p e a r a n c e : C1 e a r v i s c o u s 1 iq u i d V i s c o s i t y : 2 6 , 0 0 0 CP S o l i d s : 24% F o r m u l a t io n F - 7 1 0
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
246
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Pearlized Conditionina Shampoo Inqredients: Wt% A) Sodium Laureth Sulfate (1) (28.5% active) 35.0 Arlatone MAP Concentrate (2) 2.5 Lauramide DEA (3) 2.0 B) Polyquaternium-10 (4) 0.5 Glycol Distearate ( 5 ) 1.0 Water q.s. C) Sodium Chloride 2.0 D) 50% Potassium Hydroxide q.s. to pH 6.5 q.s. E) Germaben I1 Preparation: *Heat water to 75-80C, disperse (B) with fast stirring. *Add (A) to (B) with moderate stirring. *Add (C) to cooling (A)/(B) mixture. *Adjust pH with (D). *Add (E) below 40C and continue to gently stir to room temperature. Features : *Conditioning after feel *Excellent cleansing *Minimal irritation (1) Steol CS-330 (Stepan), (2) C9-15 Alkyl Phosphate, (3) Monamid 1034 (Mona), (4) Celquat SC-240 (National Starch), (5) Kessco EGDS (Stepan). Formula CP1232 Clear Conditionins Shampoo Insredients: Wtrg 28.5 A) Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (1) (28.0% act ve) 3.0 Lauramide DEA ( 2 ) 2.5 Arlatone MAP Concentrate (3) q.s. Water 1.6 B) Cetrimonium Chloride (4) (30.0% active q.s. to pH 6.5 C) 50% Potassium Hydroxide D) Dowicil 200 (51 . . Preparation: *Stir (A), at room temperature, until the mixture is uniform. *Add (B) to (A) with moderate stirring. *Adjust the pH with (C). *Add (D). Features: *Clear formulation with cetrimonium chloride *Conditioning after feel *Excellent cleansing (1) Stepanol AM (Stepan), (2) Monamid 1034 (Mona), (3) C9-15 Alkyl Phosphate, (4) Ammonyx CETAC-30, (5) Dowicil 200 (Dow Chemical). Formula CP1230 SOURCE: ICI Surfactants: Suggested Formulations
Shampoos
247
Salon-Sty1 e Shampoo T h i s v i s c o u s f o r m u l a t i o n d e v e l o p s a dense, r i c h , s i l k y l a t h e r which r i n s e s e a s i l y . WtO/o Part: I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: 41 . O A Dei o n i zed Water H y d r o x y p r o p y l Methylcellulose/Methocel 40-100 0.2 P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - l O / P o l y m e r JR-125 0.1 B T r i e t h a n o l a m i ne 0.1 C Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne/Mafo CAB 5.5 Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e / R h o d a p o n L-22 45.0 T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 0.2 0.2 M e t h y l Paraben I r n i d a z o l i d i n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l 115 0.2 S o l u b l e Animal K e r a t i n / K e r a s o l 0.4 5.5 D Cocami d o p r o p y l A m i ne Oxi de/Mazox CAPA Cocamide DEA/Mazamide JT-128 1.o 0.3 Fragrance 0.2 E C i t r i c Acid pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 12,000-13,000 cps ( B r o o k f i e l d # 3 f3 6 rpm) Appearance: C l e a r , v i s c o u s , v e r y p a l e s t r a w - c o l o r e d l i q u i d Mix the p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l thoroughly dispersed, then add t h e t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e t o i n i t i a t e h y d r a t i o n . A l l o w t o s t i r u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y h y d r a t e d , t h e n add t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e . P r e m i x t h e p a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s , and add t o t h e main b a t c h . T h i s p r e m i x w i l l n o t be c l e a r , b u t i t does f a c i l i t a t e the s o l u b i l i z a t i o n o f the fragrance i n the product. A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Baby Shampoo T h i s i s a c l e a r , f l u i d shampoo d e s i g n e d f o r m i l d n e s s , g e n t l e c l e a n i n g , and good r i n s e a b i l i t y . Part: I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: __ Wt% A Dei o n i zed Water 32.0 PEG-80 S o r b i t a n Laurate/T-Maz 28 6.0 Sodi um T r i d e c e t h Sul f a t e / L i p o s u r f EST-30 14.0 PEG-1 50 D i s t e a r a t e / M a p e g 6 0 0 0 DS 2.6 Sodium C12-Cl5 P a r e t h - 1 5 S u l f o n a t e / A v a n e l 1.5 5-150 CGN 8 34.0 D e i o n i z e d Water Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e / M a f o CSB-50 4.8 4.0 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i ne/Mafo CAB 0.1 Fragrance 0.1 Q u a t e r n i um-1 5 / D o w i c i 1 200 0.1 C i t r i c Acid V i s c o s i t y : 800-1500 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d #2 I3 1 2 rpm) Appearance: C l e a r , s t r a w - c o l o r e d l i q u i d Blend t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e main vessel, h e a t i n g t o 70C t o d i s s o l v e t h e Mapeg 6000 D S . When u n i f o r m , b e g i n c o o l i n g and add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . O p t i o n a l l y , t h e f r a g r a n c e c a n b e p r e m i x e d w i t h t h e Mafo CAB i n a s m a l l c o n t a i n e r . The p r e m i x w i l l n o t b e c l e a r , b u t i t w i l l speed up t h e d i s s o l u t i o n o f t h e f r a g r a n c e i n t h e shampoo. The c o n t a i n e r can b e r i n s e d w i t h a s m a l l amount o f w i t h h e l d w a t e r , i n t o w h i c h t h e quaternium-15 can be d i s s o l v e d . SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s A-106 & A - 1 1 0
248
Cosmetic and Toiletry formulations
Shampoo
w
Raw M a t e r i a1 s : A : A c y l g l u t a m a t e CS-22 Cocamide DEA A j i dew N-50 Sodi um b e n z o a t e Methyl paraben Water
60.0 5.0 1 .o 0.2 0.2 balance
B : Guar h y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m c h l o r i d e Butylene glycol
0.7 5.0
C: F r a g r a n c e
q.s.
Procedure: D i s p e r s e ( B ) a t r o o m t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h s t i r r i n g . M i x ( A ) and ( 8 ) and d i s s o l v e a t 70-8OC w i t h s t i r r i n g . Cool down t o 50C. Add ( C ) , t h e n c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . pH: 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : 1700 mPa.s a t 25C F o r m u l a CSH-12-13J Shampoo Raw Mat e r i a1 s : A: A c y l g l u t a m a t e CS-22 Sodi urn 1 a u r e t h s u l f a t e Cocamide DEA A j i d e w N-50 Sodi um b e n z o a t e Methyl paraben Water
Wt% (25%)
B : Guar h y d r o x y p r o p y l t r i m o n i u m c h l o r i d e B u t y l ene g l y c o l C:
Fragrance
40.0 20.0 5.0 1.o 0.2 0.2 balance
0.7 5.0 9,s.
Procedure: D i s p e r s e ( B ) a t room t e m p e r a t u r e w i t h s t i r r i n g . M i x ( A ) and ( B ) and d i s s o l v e a t 70-80C w i t h s t i r r i n g . Cool down t o 5OC. Add ( C ) , t h e n c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . pH: 6 . 6 V i s c o s i t y : 1530 mPa.s a t 25C F o r m u l a CL-21-13J
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S , A . ,
I n c . : Suggested Formulations
Shampoos
249
Shampoo
____-__ Raw M a t e r i a l s : A:
A c y l g l u t a m a t e CK-11 C o c a m i d e DEA P o l y q u a t e r n i um-7 ( 8 % a q . ) KOH Methyl paraben Water
B:
Hydroxypropyl c e l l u l o s e
Wto/, 15.0 3.0 3.0 1.o 0.2 balance
1.o
pH: 6 . 6 V i s c o s i t y 1050 mPa.s (25C) Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) i n g r e d i e n t s a t 70-80C. Add ( 6 ) w i t h s t i r r i n g t o ( A ) a n d c o o l down i m m e d i a t e l y . C o o l t o 30C. F o r m u l a CK-H-002
Shampoo Raw M a t e r i a.ls: A : A c v l a l u t a m a t e CK-11 A j ; dew N-50 P y r o t e r CPI-40 Polyquaternium-7 (8% a q . ) KOH Methylparaben Water
wto/, 15.0 2.0 0.5 4.0 1.o 0.2 balance 1.
8: Hydroxypropyl c e l l u l o s e pH: 6 . 6 Viscosity:
o
940 mPa.s (25C)
Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) i n g r e d i e n t s a t 70-8OC. Add ( B ) w i t h s t i r r i n g t o ( A ) a n d c o o l down i m m e d i a t e l y . C o o l t o 30C. F o r m u l a CK-H-003 SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A . ,
Inc.:
A c y l g l u t a m a t e CK-11
Formulations
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
250
Sha_mqoo-.wi_th-
E-ve-n.1
nipr-m.rose
Oi1
Raw M a t e r i a l s : A: Ampholyt J B 130K ( C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) S e r d o l a m i d e PPF 67 (Cocamide DEA) S e t a c i n 103 ( D i s o d i u m L a u r e t h S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) A n t i 1 141 L i q u i d ( P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate) B: S o f t i g e n 767 (PEG-6 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c Evening Primrose O i l Cremophor E L (PEG-35 C a s t o r O i l )
Glycerides)
4.00 10.00 2.00 6.00 100.00 9.s.
C: Water up t o P r e s e r v a t i ve 0:
EL% 20.00 3.00 20.00
Fragrance
9.s.
Preparation: ( A ) and ( C ) a r e mixed and h e a t e d t o 40C. ( 8 ) i s a l s o m i x e d , and ( A ) and (C) a r e s l o w l y m i x e d i n t o ( 6 ) . (D) i s s t i r r e d i n a t a b o u t 30C.
SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a ,
I n c . : F o r m u l a 6.3AR
__ RawA:
B:
M a t e r ia1 s: A c y l g l u t a m a t e CK-11 Sodium l a u r e t h - 3 s u l f a t e (25%) Cocamide DEA Polyquaternium-7 (8% aq.) A j idew N-50 KOH Methyl paraben Perfume Water Hydroxypropyl c e l l u l o s e
YL% 15.0 5.0 3.0 5.0 2.0 1.o 0.2 0.2 balance 0.8
pH: 6 . 6 V i s c o s i t y 400 mPa.s (25C) Procedure: D i s s o l v e ( A ) i n g r e d i e n t s a t 70-8OC. Add ( 8 ) w i t h s t i r r i n g t o ( A ) and c o o l down i m m e d i a t e l y . Cool t o 30C.
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A . ,
I n c . : Formula CK-H-004
Shampoos
251
TemDorarv Color-I_n ShamDoo lngredi ents: Phase A : Water T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e E ) L a u r y l G l u c o s i d e (Tego G l u c o s i d 1216) Propylene Glycol PEG-I8 G l y c e r y l O l e a t e Cocoate ( A n t i 1 1 7 1 ) Cocami d o p r o p y l am1 ne 0x1 de (Am1 n o x i d WS 35) P u a t e r n i u m - 8 0 ( A b i l Quat 3272) D i sod1 um Cocoamphodi p r o p i o n a t e
Wt% 36.40 0.05 7.00 6.50 1 .25 2.00 5.00 0.30 18.00
Phase B: PEG-7 G l y c e r y l Cocoate ( T e g o s o f t G C ) B a s i c B l u e 99 1 B a s i c Brown 1 6 ) A c i d V i o l e t 43 ) B l e n d e d as needed f o r c o l o r ) B a s i c Red 76 B a s i c Y e l l o w 57 1 Water )
2.50 1 .oo
Phase C : Fragrance Preservatives Phase D : C i t r i c A c i d 25% S o l u t i o n
Q.S. Q.S.
t o pH 6.5
Procedure: 1 . Heat t h e w a t e r o f Phase A t o 50C. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between a d d i t i o n s . 2 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 3 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase C . M i x . Heat t o 50C. 4. Add Phase B t o Phase C . M i x we1 1 . 5 . Add Phase B/C t o Phase A . M i x . 6 . Cool t o 40C. A d j u s t pH and f r a g r a n c e .
SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
252
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Two I n One C o n d i t i o n i n g Shampoo
No. 1 ? 3 4 5 6 7
8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17
Phase: A A 4 A A fi. A A A B
c
D E F G H
I
w t 0%
Ingredient:
Dei 01-11 z e d W a t e r
34.39
J a g u a r C13S Staiidapol A Staildapo I EA- 1 S t a t i d aniox N . i n o i 2012 E x t r - a Po I y s y n I a i i e Nutralin I Ethylene G!ycol Dlstearate K a t h o n CG D&C Green #8 ( 1 % ) F D 8 C Y e l i o w #5 ( 1 % ) FD8C F ! u e # l ( 0 . 1 % ) C i t r i c A c i d ( 2 0 % ) qs p H : 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 S o d i u m C h l o r i d e (20%) 0s S i l k Powder F r a g r a n c e Novaroine NC-46
0.40 30.00 20.00 2.00 2.50 0.50 4.00 1 .75 0.05 0.40 0.10 0.10 0.22 3.04 0 . 30 0.25
Manufacturing I n s t r u c t i o n s : H e a t P h a s e A t o 75C. C o o l t o 45C a n d a d d r e m a i n i n g p h a s e s . Package.
Lab C o n t r o l : pH: 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 3800 c p s B r o o k f i e l d RVT: & 4 @ 2 0 RPM T h i s h i g h p e r f o r m a n c e shampoo u t i 1 i z e s P o l y s y n l a n e t o p r o v i d e r e f a t t i n g a n d S i l k Powder t o e n h a n c e t h e a p p e a r a n c e o f t h e shampoo a n d a d d t o t h e c o n d i t i o n i n g . T h e r e a r e n u m e r o u s p a t e n t s using s i l i c o n e as a c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t / r e f a t t i n g m a t e r i a l . Polysynlane circumvents these patents.
SOURCE:
Polyesther Corp.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Shampoos
253
________ Two-In-One S h a m n D i a f o r m e r Z-W p r o v i d e s c o n d i t i o n i n g on t h e h a i r r e s u l t i n g i n i m p r o v e d c o m b a b i l i t y , and m a n a g e a b i l i t y . Sandopan OTC a c i d i s a m u l t i - f u n c t i o n a l s u r f a c t a n t w h i c h enhances d e p o s i t i o n o f t h e c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t and c o n t r i b u t e s t o t h e m i l d n e s s o f t h e s u r f a c t a n t system. T h i s c r y s t a l c l e a r , w a t e r w h i t e shampoo has good v i s c o s i t y and f o a m i n g c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . Ingredi ents : Wt% D e i o n i z e d Water 53 I 9 4 Sodi um L a u r y l E t h e r S u l f a t e 33.00 Sandopan DTC a c i d 8.06 PEG-120 M e t h y l G l u c o s e D i o l e a t e 3.00 D i a f o r m e r 2-W 1 .OO D i s o d i um EDTA 0.10 P r e s e r v a t i v e and F r a g r a n c e qs Procedure: Add Sandopan DTC a c i d t o w a t e r w i t h m i x i n g . U s i n g 25% NaOH s o l u t i o n , n e u t r a l i z e t o pH=6.0. H e a t t o 80C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add PEG-120 M e t h y l G l u c o s e D i o l e a t e and m i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d , Add Sodium L a u r y l E t h e r S u l f a t e w i t h m i x i n g . Cool t o 40C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add D i a f o r m e r Z-W and D i s o d i u m EDTA one a t a t i m e w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t p H = 6 . 0 . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e w h i l e mixing well. P r o p e r t ies : pH: 6 . 0 V i s c o s i t y : 2500-2700 c p s Appearance: C l e a r , w a t e r w h i t e l i q u i d REF: CL24-102: CHS-50 _ Al_ l i.n _One _ ~ Shampoo/Conditioner I n t h i s c r y s t a l c l e a r shampoo and c o n d i t i o n e r i n one, D i a f o r m Z-W c o n d i t i o n s , i m p r o v e s c o m b a b i l i t y , and i s an e x c e l l e n t a n t i s t a t i c a g e n t . Sandopan LS-24 complexes w i t h t h e D i a f o r m e r 2-W and enhances d e p o s i t i o n o f t h i s c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t on t h e h a i r . Ingredients: % & Phase A : D e i o n i z e d Water 65.85 Monamid 716 2.40 PEG-120 M e t h y l G l u c o s e D i o l e a t e 0.80 Phase 8: Sodium L a u r y l E t h e r S u l f a t e 15.00 M o n a t e r i c CAB 6.00 Sandopan LS-24 g e l 8.00 Phase C : D i a f o r m e r Z-W 0.50 P r e s e r v a t i v e and F r a g r a n c e qs Procedure: Heat w a t e r t o 80C, add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n Phase A w i t h m i x i n g . Add Phase 6 i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g . Cool t o 40C. Add Phase C i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l homogeneous. A d j u s t pH=5.0. L e t c o o l and package. P r o p e r t i as : pH: 5.0 Appearance: C r y s t a l c l e a r 1 i q u i d REF: CL24-67: CHS-49 SOURCE: C l a r i a n t C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
254
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
U l t r a M i l d C o n d i t i o n i n n Shampoo w i t h Suspended M i c a T h i s u l t r a m i l d shampoo u s e s n a t u r a l l y d e r i v e d s u r f a c t a n t s and c a t i o n i c c o n d i t i o n i n g a g e n t s w h i c h p r o d u c e a v e r y r i c h , creamy, l u x u r i o u s foam and l e a v e s t h e h a i r c o n d i t i o n e d and f u l l o f b o d y . I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 2. Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer/ C a r b o p o l ETD 2020 3 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 4 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e ( 3 m o l e , 3O%)/Standapol ES-3 5 . D e c y l P o l y g l u c o s e ( 5 0 % ) / P l a n t a r e n 2000 6 . Cocoamphoacetate ( 3 2 % ) / M i r a n o l U l t r a 7 . T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 8 . L a u r y l Methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyldimonium C h l o r i d e / G l u c q u a t 125 9 . R i c i n o l e a m i d o p r o p y l - t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e / S u r f a c t o l Q1 1 0 . D i m e t h i c o n e Copolyol/Dow C o r n i n g Q2-5324 F l u i d 1 1 . D i s o d i um L a u r e t h Sul f o s u c c i n a t e / M a c k a n a t e EL 12.Polymethoxy B i c y c l i c Oxazolidine/Nuosept C 13.Soyamide DEA/Schercomid SLS I 4 . F r u i t y F l o r a l F r a g r a n c e / F r a g r a n c e #A42017 1 5 . M i c a and T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e / T i m i r o n MP-149 16.D&C Green No. 5 ( 0 . 1 0 % ) Properties: Color, odor,
appearance:
W y i 56.65 0.75 0.35 14.00 12.00
6-50 0.20 3.00 0 60 0.45 2.00 0.20 1.20 0.50 0.10 1 50 I
I
Aqua, p e a r l e s c e n t v i s c o u s l i q u i d w i t h f r u i t y f l o r a l odor
pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 6 V i s c o s i t y (cP) a t 25C: 7,000-9,000 B r o o k f i e l d Y i e l d V a l u e : 130 P r e p a r a t i o n Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l ETD 2020 p o l y m e r i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . Reduce m i x i n g speed a f t e r p o l y m e r i s d i s p e r s e d . H o l d o u t 1 . O % w a t e r f o r s t e p number 5 . 2 . N e u t r a l i z e b a t c h w i t h g i v e n amount o f TEA, m i x u n t i l no lumps are present. 3 . Add sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 4 . Add d e c y l p o l y g l u c o s e , mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . 5 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s 6-16 i n o r d e r w i t h m i l d a g i t a t i o n , mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . NOTE: P r e - m i x T i m i r o n w i t h 1 . 0 % w a t e r b e f o r e a d d i n g t o batch. Mix u n t i l uniform.
SOURCE: B . F . G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n COO60
Section IX Shaving Products
255
256
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
A e r o s o l Shave Cream A w i d e r a n g e o f e m o l l i e n t s , m o i s t u r i z e r s and foam s t a b i l i z e r s can b e added t o i m p r o v e t h e e s t h e t i c p r o p e r t i e s o f a b a s i c shave cream f o r m u l a . I n f o r m u l a SK-17, A r l a m o l F PPG-11 S t e a r y l E t h e r i m p r o v e s r a z o r g l i d e and adds e m o l l i e n c e t o t h e f o r m u l a . S u r f a c t a n t s l i k e B r i j 98 O l e t h - 2 0 i m p r o v e t h e d e n s i t y and s t a b i l i t y o f t h e foam w i t h o u t c o n t r i b u t i n g t o s k i n i r r i t a t i o n . S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n , USP a c t s as a humectant t o h o l d m o i s t u r e on t h e f a c e and keep t h e l a t h e r f r o m d r y i n g o u t d u r i n g t h e s h a v e .
Wt%
Ingredients: A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed B r i j 98 Arlamol F B Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n , USP C P r e s e r v a t iv e D H y d r o c a r b o n P r o p e l l a n t A-46
9.0 2.0 2.0 67.4 4.6
10.o
9. S . 5 0
Preparation: Heat ( A ) t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n whi e m a i n t a i n i n g t e m p e r a t u r e a t 70-75C. A f t e r 15 m i n u t e s a t t h i s t e m p e r a t u r e , c o o l . Add (C) a b o u t 50C. R e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n . Package i n a e r o s o l c o n t a i n e r s . P r e s s u r i z e w i t h D). F o r m u l a SK-17 F o r m u l a SK-18 o f f e r s an a l t e r n a t i v e t o t h e soap t y p e p r o d u c t . The p r o d u c t i s n o n i o n i c and c o u l d b e p r e p a r e d a t a n e u t r a l o r a c i d i c pH. B e n e f i t s o f f e r e d by t h i s f o r m u l a i n c l u d e l o w i r r i t a t i o n , b e t t e r r i n s a b i l i t y and c o m p a t i b i l i t y w i t h a w i d e r a n g e o f o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s . The foam, i t s e l f , i s r i c h and dense. N o n i o n i c A e r o s o l Shave Cream T h i s i s a dense, r i c h , economical v a r i e d over a wide range. Ingredients: A Cetyl alcohol B r i j 721
B W a t e r , d e i o n i zed Sorbic Acid C Fragrance
foam w i t h a pH t h a t can be
Wt% 4.30 2.20 93.25 0.17 0.08
Preparation : Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( 9 ) t o 75C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) s o w l y w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) a t 35C. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 w i h d i l u t e NaOH. Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Cont nue a g i t a t i o n u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i s l o w enough t o p o u r . P r e s s u r i z e d : Above c o n c e n t r a t e : 1 6 0 . 0 9 Di f l u o r o e t h a n e : 5.09 F o r m u l a SK-18 SOURCE: I C I S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shaving Products
257
A f t e r Shave C o n d i t i o n e r ~
F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : T h i s rmulti-phase emulsion (O/W/A) i s v e r y s t a b l e and has wonderful s k i n f e e l . Besides t h e p r e v i o u s l y mentioned advantages, Cera B e l l i n a p r o d u c e s a p r o d u c t w i t h good v i s c o s i t y c h a r a c t e r istics in product o f low s o l i d c o n t e n t . Raw M a t e r i a l s : O i l Phase: M i nosi 1 Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax) G1 y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e Amerchol L - I 0 1 Vitamin E P r o p y l Paraben
WL% 7.5 4.0 3.3 2.0 0.5 0.1
Water Phase: Water ( d i s t i l l e d ) B u t y l ene G1 y c o l Glycerol M e t h y l Paraben Triethanolamine
64.0 5.0 1.o 0.3 1.o
A 1 coho1 Phase : SDA-30 Benzocai ne Carboxy M e t h y l C e l l u l o s e
10.0 1.0 0.3
Procedure: Combine components o f t h e wax phase i n a v e s s e l , m e l t and m i x , m a i n t a i n i n g a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C. Heat t h e w a t e r phase t o 75C i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l making s u r e t h e components a r e a l l d i s s o l v e d . S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase u n d e r l o w s h e a r . Cool t o 35 t o 4 0 C and t h e n add t h e a l c o h o l phase u n d e r l o w s h e a r . T h i s w i l l ensure t h a t t h e f r i c t i o n w i l l n o t increase t h e temperature which w i l l evaporate t h e a l c o h o l . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : A l t e r a t i o n s i n component c o n c e n t r a t i o n s c a n be a c h i e v e d b y t h e a d d i t i o n o f secondary e m u l s i f y i n g agents. T h i s w i l l a l l o w f o r a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s t o be added a t t h e same t i m e as m a i n t a i n i n g t h e s t a b i l i t y and r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s .
SOURCE:
K o s t e r Keunen I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
258
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
A f t e r s h a v e Gel w i t h P e p p e r m i n t and Tea T r e e O i l T h i s c l e a r a f t e r s h a v e g e l , t h i c k e n e d w i t h C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 10, c o n t a i n s Tea T r e e and P e p p e r m i n t O i l and w i l l h e l p s o o t h e and c o o l p o s t - r a z o r s k i n b u r n . Tea T r e e O i l i s known f o r i t s h e a l i n g and t h e r a p e u t i c p r o p e r t i e s . I ~ f ~ d ~ ~ - n ~ r a ~ ~ ~ a - ~ e - ~ Part A: Dei o n i zed Water Carbomer/Carbopol U l t r e z 1 0 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l S o r b i t o l ( 7 0 % ) / S o r b o 7090 PEG 6OO/Carbowax 600 NaOH (18%) P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 3 9 / M e r q u a t P l u s 3330 Part B: Oleth-lO/Brij-97, Volpo-10 Peppermint O i 1, Refined Tea T r e e Oil/EmCon Tea T r e e P a r t C: SD 40 A l c o h o NaOH (l8Oh)
84.23 0.20 1.50 0 50 2.00 0.20 0.25 I
0.80 0.80 0.12
10.00 0.12
P r o p e r t ies : OH: 6.3-6 8 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) : 7,000-10,000 C l a r i t y ( % T ) : 90-95 Appearance: C l e a r p o u r a b l e g e l S t a b i l i t y : Passed 45C, 28 days Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l U l t r e z p o l y m e r by s p r i n k l i n g on t h e s u r f a c e o f warm (30-40C) d e i o n i z e d w a t e r . B e g i n s t i r r i n g when p o l y m e r i s wetted. 2 . W i t h s l o w s t i r r i n g , add p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l , Sorbo and PEG 600 ( p r e - m e l t e d ) . S t i r f o r 20 minutes. 3 . Add NaOH ( 1 8 % ) , i n c r e a s e m i x i n g as g e l t h i c k e n s . M i x u n t i l smooth. 4 . Slow a g i t a t i o n speed and add P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - 3 9 . 5 . Combine P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s ( p r e - m e l t o l e t h - 1 0 ) . Add P a r t C t o P a r t A . (NOTE: P a r t A s h o u l d b e 3 0 C ) . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . 6 . W i t h s l o w m i x i n g , add SD 40 a l c o h o l and NaOH ( 1 8 % ) . M i x unti 1 uniform.
SOURCE: B . F . G o o d r i c h Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n U0014
Shaving Products
259
Experimental Shavins Cream PreDaration Inqredient: Deionized water Sodium hydroxide (24.6% solution) Potassium hydroxide (34.2% solution) Stearic acid, double pressed Coconut acid Propylene glycol Lauramide DEA Coconut oil Tallow glycerides Preservative 1.5% N-Hance 3000 solution
Amount ,q 633,6 9.6 34.2 71.6 10.0 27 .Q 10.0 2.5 30.0 5.0
166.5
To prepare the N-Hance 3000 cationic guar solution, add the polymer to the vortex of well-agitated water. Stir 5 minutes. Use acetic acid* to lower pH to 6-7. Stir 30 minutes. Make sure pH is still within the 6-7 range. Add 2.5% sorbitol** (70% active). Stir 30 minutes. Set the resulting solution aside. To prepare the shaving cream concentrate, add the sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide to the deionized water at room temperature. Raise the temperature to 75C. Stir 5 minutes. Premelt the stearic acid and coconut acid separately and then add each to the caustic/water mix. Stir 30 minutes and then cool to 55C. Add, one at a time, the propylene glycol, lauramide DEA (melted), coconut oil, tallow glycerides (melted), and preservative. Stir 15 minutes and then turn off the heat. Add the N-Hance solution and cool to room temperature while stirring. (For the control, 166.5 g of deionized water was used in place of the N-Hance solution.) The concentrate (225g) was weighed into a standard 12-02 shaving cream can. The can was then sealed with a valve assembly using laboratory canning equipment and charged with 9.0 g of propellant. *Acetic acid is added to speed up the hydration of the N-Hance polymer and reduce solution preparation time to <1 hr. **Sorbit01 is added to prevent borate ion, present in the N-Hance polymer, from complexing with the cationic guar in high-pH (>7) formulations, such as shaving creams. Addition of sorbitol is unnecessary in lower pH formulations.
SOURCE: Aqualon Division, Hercules I n c . : Experimental Formulation
260
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
G e l S h a v e Cream Gel shave creams a r e e s s e n t i a l l y s o a p - t y p e f o r m u l a s packaged i n a S e p r o - C a n a e r o s o l c o n t a i n e r ( C o n t i n e n t a l Can C o . ) . The g e l c o n c e n t r a t e c o n t a i n s a l o w l e v e l o f p r o p e l l a n t . When t h e g e l i s e x p e l l e d f r o m t h e c a n , t h i s p r o p e l l a n t v o l a t i l i z e s o n warm s k i n s u r f a c e s and p r o d u c e s a foam. N o n i o n i c s u r f a c t a n t s l i k e B r i j 98 O l e t h - 2 0 s t a b i l i z e t h e foam. Inqredients: A Palmitic acid Stearic acid B r i j 98 8 Water S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n , USP C Water T r i e t h a n o l ami n e D Hydroxypropyl c e l l u l o s e s o l u t i o n (1.0% W/W P r o p y l ene g l y c o l E Carbomer 934 s o l u t i o n ( 1 . 5 % , W/W i n w a t e r ) F Propylene g l y c o l dipelargonate n-Butane n - Pe i i t a n e
Wt%
i n water)
6.50 2.25 1 .oo 34.20 10.00 10.00 4.75 7.50 3.30 15.00 2.75 0.55 2.20
Preparation: H e a t ( A ) , ( B ) , a n d ( C ) t o 6 0 C . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) s l o w l y t o ( A B ) w i t h g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( D ) a n d ( E ) s e p a r a t e l y t o t h i s s o a p b a s e and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. M i x ( F ) a t 5C. A l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e t r a n s f e r r e d t o a p r e s s u r i z e d v e s s e l a n d m i x e d a t 7 t o 10 p s i g . T h i s m i x t u r e i s p a c k a g e d i n a s u i t a b l e a e r o s o l c a n . The c a n i s p r e s s u r i z e d f r o m t h e b o t t o m w i t h a m i x t u r e o f p r o p a n e and i s o b u t a n e h a v i n g a v a p o r p r e s s u r e o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 46 p s i g . C a u t i o n : n - B u t a n e and n-Pentane a r e v e r y f l a m m a b l e ! F o r m u l a SK-19 The n e x t f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o p r o v i d e t h e s h a v e r who u s e s an e l e c t r i c r a z o r w i t h a l u b r i c a t e d f a c e w h i c h w i l l a l l o w t h e r a z o r t o g l i d e over t h e s k i n r e a d i l y and t o p r e v e n t " r a z o r b u r n . "
P r e - e l e c t r i c Shave L o t i o n Inaredientsl A r l a m o l E pop 15 s t e a r y l e t h e r A l c o h o l , SDA F o r m u l a No. 4 0 M e n t h o l , USP Perfume P r e p a r a t i on : Mix ingredients toge her F o r m u l a AE-7
SOURCE:
ICI
Surfactants
I
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Kt2 10.0-15.0 84.6-89.6 0.2 0.2
Shaving Products
01 2
-1
n-Water
After-Shave
261
Balm
I a r e d i e-cns;
WZ9"
10.0
A A r l a m o l 57 Babassu o i l
5.0 5.5
B A r l a t o n e 2121 A t l a s G-2330 P r e s e r v s t i ve Water
2.5 q.s.
71.6
C Keltrolh
0.2
D Ethanol
5.0
E Fombin HC/O3*
0.2
Manufacture: 1 , M i x t h e A r l a t o n e 2 1 2 1 l r i t h c h e a t e d w a t e r p h a s e a t YOC u ~ ~ d e r m o d e r a t e s t i r r i rig a n t i 1 a h o m o g e n e o u s d i s p e r s i c n : s f o r m e d . 2. D i s p e r s e t h e h y d r o c o i l o i d i n t h e h e a t e d aqueous phase a t 131.. w i t h m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g . 3 . Add t h e h e a t e d o i l p h a s e t o t h e a q u e o u s p h a s e u n d e r i n t e n s i v e s t i r r i ng. 4 . H o m o g e n i s e t h e m i x t u r e . i r i t e n s i v t . l y a t 7 5 C f o r orle n1 r i u t e , 5 . Add y h a s e s D ;tnd i a-L - - d o c : . 6. C o o l t o 35C i - I i i l s t s t i r r i i - ; g m o d e l - a t e l y . 7 , Add h e a t - s e n s ? t - t v e i i : g : e d i t . i, -, t i '..i,i , ;st s t i r r i n g m o d e ate'? --?.
.I
Comments: Viscosity:
6.550 mPa
i
( B r o o k f i e i d LVT,
*Ke;tol (Xanthari Gum, INC.i)-Ke!co Fonibin H C I 0 3 i P e r f l u o r o p o l y n i e t h y 1 A u s i munt
SOURCE:
s p l i i d l e C , 6 rpm)
sopropy1 E t h e r , iNC1)-
I C I S u r f a c t a n t s ; F o r m u l a t i o n F41-5-15
262
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Shave Cr_ea-m C o n c e n t r a t e Rich lather,
good
r a i o r g l i d e , and w o n ' t l e a v e a c a l c i u m soap scum i n t h e b a s i n .
: _InAr e d2.e n t / T r a d e D e i o n i z e d Water Carbomer 9 3 4 / C a r b o p o l 934 Sod1 um C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d / Jordapon CI-60 F l a k e S t e a r i c A c i d / E m e r s o l 132 Coconut Acid/C-108 P a r a f f i n 6971 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l PEG-75 L a n o l i n / S o l u l a n 75 Preservative/Germaben I 1 Fragrance T r i e t h a n o l ami n e
w t 4b
76.9 0.2
12.5 0.9 0. I 1 .6 5.0 0.5 0.2 0.2 2.0
Procedure: D i s p e r s e a n d d i s s o l v e t h e c a r b o m e r 9 3 4 i n t h e w a t e r . Add t h e Jordapon C I - 6 0 F l a k e , f a t t y a c i d s and p a r a f f i n , h e a t i n g t o 55C ( 1 3 0 F ) t o d i s s o l v e . P r e m i x t h e p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l , PEG-75 l a n o l i n , p r e s e r v a t i v e , a n d f r a g r a n c e ; a d d t o t h e b a t c h . A d j u s t pH t o 7 . 0 - 7 . 5 w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . Use t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e a t 96% w i t h 4% P r o p e l l a n t A - 4 6 . Foamul a t i on P-301 . E l e c~. tric P ~reshave A h y d r o - a l c o h o l i c s p l a s h w h i c h l u b r i c a t e s t h e s k i n and w e t s t h e b e a r d f o r a f a s t e r , more c o m f o r t a b l e s h a v e . The f o r m u l a a l s o w o r k s w e l l a s a m o i s t u r i z i n g a f t e r s h a v e , and a s a m o i s t u r i z i n g afterbath splash.
W-CIo
L!g Ced 1SE t_flrade__~N_a_m_e_:
PPG-10 B u t a n e d i o l / M a c o l 5 7 Di m e t h i c o n e C o p o l y o 1 /Mas1 1 280 Fragrance SD A l c o h o l 4 0 8 D e i o n i z e d Water Appearance: C l e a r , w a t e r - w h i t e
3.0
0.5 Q.S 25.0 71 . 5
fluid
Procedure: Blend t h e f i r s t t h r e e i n g r e d i e n t s a t ambient temperature. Add t h e f r a g r a n c e , a n d b l e n d u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t h e w a t e r , a n d blend u n t i l uniform. F o r m u l a t i o n P-104
SOURCE:
PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c . : Suggested Formulations
Shaving Products
263
Shave G e l F o r m u l a t i n g Desi gn and Advantages: The p r o d u c t w i l l r a i s e t h e h a i r o f f t h e f a c e t o make f o r a c l o s e r c u t w i t h o u t i r r i t a t i o n . The H e x a n e d i o l Behenyl Beeswax s t a b i l i z e s t h e s i l i c o n e o i l t o l e a v e t h e s k i n s i l k y and smooth. Raw M a t e r i a1 s : Phase A : Hexanedi o l Behenyl Beeswax D e o d o r i z e d Orange Wax P e r m e t h y l 104A Polybutene Isostearic Acid Palmitic Acid Phase B : P u r i f i e d Water Triethanolamine C a r b o p o l 940 ( 2 % d i s p e r s i o n ) A l o e Vera Gel A1 l a n t o i n Germaben 11 Phase C : S i 1 i c o n e 345
Hi3 3.0 2.0 3.0 4.0 0.6 1.4
63.9 0.8 12.0 0.8 0.8 1
.o
6.7
Procedure: Heat and m i x Phase A and add t o a h e a t e d and m i x e d Phase 5 . Cool t o 50C and add Phase C . Cool t o 40C and p o u r . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : F r a g r a n c e s , a c t i v e s and o t h e r s i l i c o n e o i l s can be i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h i s t y p e o f f o r m u l a , w i t h o n l y m i n i m a l changes i n s t a b i l i t y and p e r f o r m a n c e .
SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Section X
Soaps and Hand Cleaners
264
Shaving Products
A n t i b a c t e r i a l Handcleaner: HpsPitaJ
265
Formulation
CofLPxEEt-:. R e w o t e r i c AM 2CW W i t c o l a t e ES-2 W i t c a m i d e 128T W i t c o n a t e AOS-PC Triclosan/Propylene Glycol* G1 y c e r i n ( K e m e s t e r 9 9 . 7 % ) D I Water G1 y d a n t Na4EDTA
w t Zh 1.4 4.0 0.5 10.0 0.5 2.0 81 , 2 5 0.25 0.1
*These t w o components a r e b l e n d e d i n a 5 0 : 5 0 b l e n d a t l e a s t 2 4 h o u r s b e f o r e f o r m u l a t i n g . I t makes i t e a s i e r t o i n c o r p orate the Triclosan i n t o t h e formula. Components a r e a d d e d i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d w i t h no h e a t i n g a n d c o n t i n u o u s m i x.i n g . A d j u s t pH t o a b o u t 6 . 0 5 u s i n g 25% C i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n . B r o o k f i e l d R V - D V I 1 # 4 C 1 0 25C: 8 0 0 c p s a t 4% NaCl 1450 c p s a t 4 . 6 % NaCl Formula 1127
A n t i b a c t e r i a1 H a n d c l e a n e r : Shop F o r m u l a t i o n Component R e w o t e r i r AM €3-14 W i t c o l a t e ES-2 W i t c a m i de 1 2 8 T W i t c o l l a t e AOS-PC Triclosan/Propylene glycol* G l y c e r i n ( K e r n e s t e r 99 7 % ) D I Water G1 y d a n t Na4EDTA W i t c o n a t e GOT
WtY/,
2.0 4.0 2.0 10.0 0.5 1
.o
74.15 0.25 0.1 6.0
*These t w o components a r e b l e n d e d i n a 5 0 : 5 0 b l e n d a t l e a s t 24 h o i l r s b e f o r e f o r m u l a t i n g . I t makes i t e a s i e r t o i n c o r p orate the Triclosan i n t o the formula. Components a r e a d d e d i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d w i t h no h e a t i n g a n d c o n t in u o u s m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH t o a b o u t 6 . 0 5 u s i n g 25% C i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n . B r o o k f i e l d R V - D V I 1 #4 C 1 0 25C 920 c p s a t 2% NaCl 1 3 8 9 c p s a t 2.5W NaCl F ormula 1129
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
266
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Antibacterial Component.; R e w o t e r i c AM 2CW W i t c o l a t e ES-2 W i t c a m i d e 128T W i t c o n a t e AOS-PC Triclosan/Propylene
Handcleaner: O f f i c e Formulat_ioq W S
1.4 8.0 glycol*
0.5 10.0 0.5
H e a t t o 70-75C b e f o r e c o n t i n u i n g a d d i t i o n s K e m e s t e r EGOS G l y c e r i n e (Kemester 99.7%) 01 W a t e r
1.o 2.0 40.0
Remove f r o m h e a t . A d d i t i o n s may c o n t i n u e e v e n b e f o r e r e t u r n i n g t o room t e m p . 01 W a t e r Na4EDTA Glydant
36.25 0.1 0.25
*These t w o components a r e b l e n d e d i n a 5 0 : 5 0 b l e n d a t l e a s t 24 h o u r s b e f o r e f o r m u l a t i n g . I t makes i t e a s i e r t o i n c o r p orate the Triclosan i n t o the formula. Components a r e a d d e d i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d w i t h c o n t i n u o u s m i x i n g and h e a t i n g a s i n d i c a t e d . A d j u s t pH t o a b o u t 6 . 0 5 u s i n g 25% C i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n . B r o o k f i e l d R V - D V I 1 # 4 @ 1 0 25C 240 c p s a t 3% NaCl 2740 c p s a t 4% NaCl Formula 1128
Wa-terl e s s Hand C1 e a n e r Ingredients: Emphos PS-220 Kerosene, deodorized Stoddard Solvent, deodorized T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% Water Formula 1119
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
K%.% 8.7 37.9 15.4 2.2 35.8
Shaving Products
267
A n t i b a c t c r i a ! L i G u i d Soap A h i g h - f o a m i n g l i q u i d soap c o n t a i n i n g Jordapon ACI-30 t o p r o v i d e e x c e l l e n t l a t h e r s l i p and s o f t s k i n a f t e r f e e l . An e f f e c t i v e a n t i b a c t e r i a1 p r o v i d e s r e s i d u a l b e n e f i t s . ___ Part: I n g r e d i e n t T r a d e Name: W 2 A h n o n i u m L i u r e t h S u l f a t e / A l f o n i c 1412A 9.6 T r i c l o s a n / I r g a s a n DP-300 0.3 Cocamidopropyl Amine Oxide/Mazox CAPA 3.5 Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e / M a f o CSB-50 3.3 M e t h y l Paraben 0.2 B D e i o n i z e d Water 74.0 Na4EDTA 0.2 I r n i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germal 1 11 5 0.2 Ammonium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e / J o r d a p o n ACI-30 7.4 C Cocamide DEA/Mazamide JT-128 1.3 Q. S C i t r i c A c i d t o pH=6.5+-0.2 Ammon i um Chl o r i de Q.S V i s c o s i t y : 2,500-4,000 cps Appearance: C l e a r , s t r a w - c o l o r e d l i q u i d Procedure: B l e n d p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e main v e s s e l , h e a t i n g t o 45C u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t h e p a r t B components i n o r d e r , m a i n t a i n i n g 45C. When u n i f o r m , b e g i n c o o l i n g , add p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s . F o r m u l a t i o n N-109 M i l d L~i w i d Soap T h i s f o r m u l a l a t h e r s and c l e a n s w e l l . v e t l e a v e s s k i n f e e l i n a smooth and s o f t t h a n k s t o t h e Jordapon C I - U P and Mafo CAB i n g r e d i e n t s . The w h i t e p e a r l e s c e n t appearance i s due t o t h e Mapeg EGMS. O m i t t i n g t h i s i n g r e d i e n t y i e l d s a c l e a r , p a l e y e l l o w oroduct.
-
WtYO
74.2 3.0 13.0 0.5 0.1 0.2 6.0 2.5 0.2 0.2 0.1
Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e / J o r d a p o n C I - U P Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e / S t e p a n o l AM G l y c o l S t e a r a t e / M a p e g EGMS N a 4 EDTA M e t h y l Paraben B Cocamidopropyl B e t a i ne/Mafo CAB Cocami de DEA/Mazami de JT-128 C I m i d a z o l i d i n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l 11 5 Fragrance C i t r i c Acid pH: 6 . 2 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y : 2 , 5 0 0 - 3 , 5 0 0 cps ( w i t h 0 . 6 - 0 . 9 % NaC1) Appearance: Creamy, p e a r l e s c e n t l i q u i d Total A c t i v e s : 11.5% Procedure: M i x and h e a t t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 65C t o m e l t and d i s s o l v e t h e Jordapon CI-UP and t h e Mapeg EGMS. When u n i f o r m , add t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s and c o o l t h e b a t c h t o 40-45C. Add t h e G e r m a l l 115 and f r a g r a n c e , and a d j u s t t h e pH. Cool t h e b a t c h t o 25C and a d j u s t t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . F o r m u l a t i o n N-201 SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
268
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
mi
-.______ Anti crob
i a1 L i au id Soap
l . n n r e d i e n t s .:. Phase A : H20, D e i o n i z e d 56.03 B i o t e r g e AS-40 17.00 Standapol A 12.00 H e t a i n e CLA ( C a n o l a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) 4.25 H e s t EGDS (EGDS) 0.80 H e t a m i d e RC ( C o c a m i d e DEA) 3.00 M e r q u a t 550 3.10 Phase B : P r o p y l ene G 1 y c o l 2.50 Triclosan 0.50 Phase C : K a t h o n CG 0.05 Phase D : C i t r i c Acid 0.07 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.70 Specifications: pH: 5 . 7 5 - 6 . 5 0 V i s c o s i t y # 3 / 1 2 : 6000 c p s 1 . I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e , c o m b i n e Phase A . H e a t t o 75C w h i l e m i x i n g . 2 . P r e m i x Phase 6 , a d d t o b a t c h . M i x w e l l . 3 . C o o l t o 40C a n d a d d K a t h o n CG. 4 . A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 5 . C o o l t o 25C a n d a d j u s t t o d e s i r e d v i s c o s i t y w i t h s o d i u m chloride. F o r m u l a t i o n HLS-94-132
L i q u i d Soap Ingredients: Wt% Phase A : H20, D e i o n i z e d 59.01 B i o t e r g e AS-40 17.00 Standapol A 12.00 H e t a i n e CLA ( C a n o l am1 d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e ) 4.25 H e s t EGDS (EGDS) 0.80 H e t a m i d e RC ( C o c a m i d e DEA) 3.00 M e r q u a t 550 3.10 Phase 6 : K a t h o n CG 0.07 Phase C : C i t r i c Acid 0.07 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.70 Spec1 f ic a t io n s : DH: 5 . 7 5 - 6 . 5 0 V i s c o s i t y # 3 / 1 2 : 5000 c p s 1 . I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e c o m b i n e Phase A . H e a t t o 75C w h i l e m i x i n g . 2 . C o o l t o 40C a n d a d d K a t h o n C G . 3 . A d j u s t pH w t h c i t r i c a c i d . 4 . C o o l t o 25C a n d a d j u s t t o d e s i r e d v i s c o s t Y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . F o r m u l a HS 9 3 - 6 6 SOURCE: H e t e r e n e , I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shaving Products
269
Application for Soaps and Syndet Bars Acylglutamate can be used for soap and syndet bar applications with advantages such as: *high eco-compatibility = good biodegradation *least irritation to skin and eyes *hypo-allergic *moisturized feeling after wash *Excellent properties even in hard water *prevention of scum Syndet Bar
Raw Materials: Acylglutamate GS-11 Cetyl alcohol Water Titanium oxide Perfume Syndet bar with weakly acidic pH
Wt$ 83.9 7.0 9.0 0.1 9.s.
Svndet Bar
W B
Raw Materials: Acylglutamate GS-11 Sodium lauryl sulfate Cetyl alcohol Water Perfume Pigment
57.0 24.0 9.0 10.0 q.s. q.s.
Soap
Raw Materials: Soap material (incl 8% water) Acylglutamate HS-21 Cetyl alcohol Ajidew N-50 Pyroter GPI-25 Ceresine Perfume
0.5 0.3 q.s.
Wt$ 41.6 10.0
Raw Materials: Soap material (incl Acylglutamate HS-21 Glycerin Ethanol Sugar Water Perfume SOURCE: Ajinomoto U . S . A . ,
wtg
86.0 10.0 2.2 1.0
7.0 18.0 12.0 11.4 9.s.
Inc.: Suggested Formulations
270
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Coconut-Soya Hand Soap (15% Real Soap1 Emery 621 Coconut Fatty Acid (acid value 263) Emery 610 Soya Fatty Acid (acid value 202) Caustic potash (100%) Water
Wt% 9.65 3.20 3.18 to 100.00
Procedure: Blend the coconut and soya fatty acids and proceed: Dissolve the caustic in the necessary amount of water, heating to 49-54C (120-130F), then add the fatty acid in a slow steady stream. Agitate while mixing the fatty acid and caustic until saponification is complete. The reaction mixture should be heated to 66-71'2 (150-160F) during the final stages of saponification. Check the neutrality of the soap and adjust as necessary. Perfume as desired. Allow the soap to stand and settle for several days at near freezing temperatures, if possible, and decant or filter the soap. Soya Scrub Soap (15% Real Soap) Emery 610 Soya Fatty Acid (acid value 202) Caustic potash (100%) Water
Wt%
13.20 2.69 to 100.00
Procedure: Prepare in the same way as formulation above Properties and Variations: Scrub soaps are made for general purpose applications and are usually made from the cheaper grades of fatty acids. Cottonseed and soya fatty acids are quite popular raw materials for this type of product, though oleic and other fatty acids may also be used. Addition of several percent of pine oil will give a pleasant odor to the soap and cause it to congeal slightly. The pine oil should not be added until the soap is fairly cool, since high temperatures cause vaporization and loss. Furthermore, addition of pine oil at or near room temperatures assures better control of viscosity of the finished soap. SOURCE: Henkel Corp/Emery Group: Fatty Acids and Their Water Soluble Soaps: Suggested Formulations
Shaving Products
271
Cream Soae
Raw Materials: Water Acylglutamate L S - 1 1 Glycerin Sodium PCA Glyceryl stearate Cetearyl alcohol Sodium chloride Fragrance Imidazolidinyl urea Methyldibromo glutaronitrile
Wt% balance 25.0 20.0 2.0
2.0 1.0 1.0
0.2 0.2 &
phenoxyethanol
0.1
C r e a m Soap
Raw Materials: Water Acylglutamate CT-12 Propylene glycol PEG-20 glyceryl stearate & Glyceryl stearate Cetearyl alcohol Sodium PCA Pyroter GPI-25 Hydroxyethylcellulose Fragrance Imidazolidinyl urea Methyldibromo glutaronitrile & phenoxyethanol
Wt% balance 20.0 15.0 6.0
3.0 1.0 1.0 0.8 0.3
0.2 0.1
Solid Bar Raw Materials: Sodium N-Cocoyl, Tallow-L-Glutamate (Amisoft GS-11) Sodium cocoylisethionate Cetyl alcohol Titanium dioxide EDTA disodium salt Deionized water
Wt% 42.00
42.00 7 .OO
0.10 0.10 8.80
Procedure: 1. Dissolve cetyl alcohol and deionized water at 80C with stirring. 2. Add titanium dioxide and EDTA disodium salt and disperse thoroughly. 3. Add small amount of GS-11 (3g per 1009 of water) to the mixture to emulsify at 80C, with continued stirring. 4 . Add the mixture from step 3 to GS-11 and Sodium cocoylisethionate and mingle thoroughly. 5. Mill the mixture on a roller mill and then convert into a bar through an extruder. 6. Mold the bar in a stamping machine. Formula AI-KK SOURCE: Ajinomoto U.S.A., Inc.: Suggested Formulations
272
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
D - L i monene Hand C1 e&arex An o p a q u e , f i r m g e l w a t e r l e s s h a n d c l e a n e r b a s e d o n n a t u r a l d - 1 i m o n e n e a n d b i o d e g r a d a b l e emu1 s i f i e r s . E f f e c t i v e , c l e a n r i n s i n g , and p l e a s a n t - s m e l l i n g , wto/, Part: I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: A d-Limonene, Grade M 20 0 0 B u t y l a t e d H y d r o x y T o l u e n e (BHT) 0.10 01 e i c A c i d/Pamol yn 125 7.20 C o c a m i d e DEA/Mazamide J T - 1 2 8 1 .70 5.00 P o l y s o r b a t e 80/T-Maz 8 0 PEG-85 L a n o l in / L a n o g e l 65 0.50 B Triethanolamine 3.10 G1 y c e r i n 1.oo D e i o n i z e d Water 61.39 Na4EDTA 0.01 pH: 8 . 2 - 8 . 5 Odor: C i t r u s Appearance: W h i t e , opaque g e l Procedure: No h e a t i n g i s r e q u i r e d t o p r o c e s s t h i s f o r m u l a . I n a s i d e v e s s e l , d i s s o l v e t h e BHT i n t h e d - L i m o n e n e , t h e n b l e n d i n t h e o t h e r p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . I n t h e main v e s s e l , b l e n d t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . W i t h r a p i d p r o p e l l o r m i x i n g , a d d p a r t A t o p a r t B, f o r m i n g t h e e m u l s i o n . Check a n d a d j u s t pH, t h e n p a c k a g e . P r o d u c t i s a f l o w a b l e l i q u i d when made, t h i c k e n s t o a s o f t c r e a m i n a b o u t 2 h o u r s , a n d becomes a r i n g i n g g e l i n a b o u t 3 h o u r s . F o r m u l a t i o n 0-1 0 6 I
W a t e r l e s s Hand C l e a n e r w i t h d - L i m o n e n e A f i r m w h i t e cream f o r h e a v y - d u t y hand c l e a n i n g w i t h o r w i t h o u t w a t e r . The d - l i m o n e n e a i d s g r e a s e - c u t t i n g i n a d d i t i o n t o f r a g r a n c i n g t h e p r o d u c t . M a z c l e a n EP p r o v i d e s e m u l s i f i c a t i o n ane d e t e r g e n c y as w e l l a s improved r i n s a b i l i t y , _ Ing ._ r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: ye, Part: A D e o d o r i z e d Kerosene 25.00 L i g h t M i n e r a l O i 1/Drake01 9 5.00 d-Limonene, Grade M 5.00 d - L i m o n e n e E m u l s i f i e r / M a z c l e a n EP 6.00 S t e a r i c A c i d / H y s t r e n e 5016 5.00 49.83 B Water G1 y c e r i n 2.00 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99% 2.10 P r e s e r v a t i v e / K a t h o n CG 0.07 pH: 7 . 5 - 8 . 0 V i s c o s i t y : 5 5 0 , 0 0 0 - 6 0 0 , 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d TD @ 0 . 3 r p m ) Appearance: F i r m , g l o s s y w h i t e cream Procedure: B l e n d t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e m a i n v e s s e l , h e a t t o 60C. I n a s e c o n d v e s s e l , b l e n d a n d h e a t t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s t o 60C. S l o w l y add P a r t B t o A w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . The b a t c h w i l l t h i c k en as t h e e m u l s i o n forms, t h e n i t w i l l t h i n s l i g h t l y as t h e emuls i o n i n v e r t s . C o o l t h e b a t c h t o 35C w i t h sweep s t i r r i n g & p a c k o f f . F o r m u l a t i o n 0-1 0 2 SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shaving Products
273
Hand and Body C l e a n s e r Ingredients: Wt% Phase I : Water, D . I . 67.0 W i t c o n a t e AOS 20.0 Varonic LI-48 3.7 Varonic LI-67 1.3 W i t c o n o l EGMS 1.6 Varamide ML-1 2.5 Phase 11: G1 y c e r i n 0.2 Lanoquat 5 0 0.5 EDTA 0.1 R e w o t e r i c AM B -1 5 3.1 Phase I 1 1 : C i t r i c Acid 4,s. Phase I V : Sodi urn Chl o r ide q.s. Phase V : Preservative q.s. Blending Procedure: Heat Phase I w a t e r t o 8 O C . B l e n d i n W i t c o n a t e AOS w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . When t h i s i s b l e n d e d c o m p l e t e l y , add t h e r e m a i n i n g Phase I i n g r e d i e n t s , m e l t i n g them f i r s t b e f o r e a d d i n g . Cool t o 45C and add Phase 11, i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d . C o o l t o 35C and a d j u s t p H = 7 . 0 t o 7 . 7 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Add sodium c h l o r i d e t o desi red v i s c o s i t y . Typi c a l P r o p e r t ie s : S o l i d s : 19.5% pH: 7 . 3 Formula 1125 Economy. . ~
mredientsr
Hand C1 e a n e r
wt./,
Phase I: Water, D . I . 64.7 Glycerine 0.5 W i t c o l a t e WAC-LA 30.0 Varox 1770 3.5 G l y c e r y l Stear-ate 1.3 Phase 1 1 : P h o s p h o r i c A c i d , 86% 9,s. Phase 111: Sodium C h l o r i d e 9.s. Phase I V : Preservative q.s. B1 e n d i ng P r o c e d u r e : Warm and mix Phase I t o 70-75C. Cool t o 30C. A d j u s t t o pH= 6 . 8 w i t h P h o s p h o r i c A c i d . Add sodium c h l o r i d e t o a c h i e v e desir e d v i s c o s i t y T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i es : Sol i ds : 1 2 . 0 % pH: 6 . 8 Formula 1124 SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
.
274
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Heavy D u t y L i q u i d Soap A h i g h - l a t h e r i n g , h a r d - w o r k i n g l i q u i d soap w h i c h d o e s n ' t d r y t h e s k i n w i t h r e p e a t e d use b e c a u s e o f t h e M a f o CSB-50, w h i c h a l s o h e l p s b u i l d t h e p r o d u c t ' s v i s c o s i t y . A pearlescent appeara n c e i s i m p a r t e d b y t h e Mapeg EGMS, w h i c h c o u l d b e o m i t t e d i f a c l e a r product i s desired.
Part: A
I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: W B D e m i n e r a l i z e d Water 20.0 S o d i u m C14-15 O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e / W i t c o n a t e AOS 10.0 1.o G l y c o l S t e a r a t e / M a p e g EGMS 46.1 B Demi n e r a l i z e d W a t e r S o d i um C12-15 P a r e t h S u l f a t e / N e o d o l 2 5 - 3 5 10.0 C o c a m i d o p r o p y l H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e / M a f o CSB-50 10.0 P r o p y l e n e G 1 y c o l ( a n d ) D i a z o l id i n y l U r e a ( a n d ) M e t h y l Paraben ( a n d ) P r o p y l Paraben/ 0.5 Germaben I 1 Na4 EDTA 0.2 C o c a m i d e DEA/Mazamide 8 0 2.0 C C i t r i c A c i d (50%) 0.2 Ammonium C h l o r i d e Q.S. pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 300 c p s ( w i t h 0 . 0 % NH4C1) 6 , 0 0 0 c p s ( w i t h 0 . 5 % NH4C1) Appearance: White, p e a r l e s c e n t l i q u i d Procedure: P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s a r e m i x e d a n d h e a t e d t o 65C t o m e l t a n d d i s s o l v e t h e p e a r l a g e n t . H e a t i n g i s d i s c o n t i n u e d , and t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s a r e a d d e d i n o r d e r , w i t h p r o p e l l o r m i x i n g . When t h e b a t c h i s u n i f o r m , t h e pH i s a d j u s t e d w i t h c i t r i c a c i d a n d t h e v i s c o s i t y w i t h ammonium c h l o r i d e . F o r m u l a t i o n N-I03
Combo Bar ( M o d i f i c a t i o n o f a n e x a m p l e f r o m US P a t e n t # 5 , 0 4 1 , 2 3 3 ) ~~
I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: T a l l o w / C o c o Soap ( 8 5 - 1 5 ) Sodium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d / Jordapon CI-75 Water S o d i um I s e t h i o n a t e / W i t c o n a t e N I S NaCl Fragrance Ti02 N a3H E EDTA BHT Procedure: B l e n d a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r a t room t e m p e r a t u r e F o r m u l a t i o n M-104
SOURCE:
PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Wt% 55.6 29.3 10.3 2.0 0.4 1.o 1 .o 0.2 0.2
Shaving Products
275
H o t Pour S v n d e t x
T h i s m i l d c l e a n s i n g b a r p r o v i d e s r i c h l a t h e r and so t s k i n as a r e s u l t o f J o r d a p o n C I - 6 0 . The f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o b e m a n u f a c t u r e d u s i n g h o t - f i l l e q u i p m e n t ; no soapmaking 1 nes a r e needed. I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name; Sodium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d / Jordapon CI-60 S t e a r y l Alcohol/CO-1895 PEG-l50/Carbowax E-8000 T r i e t h a n o l ami n e , 99% Demi n e r a l i zed Water pH ( 5 % s o l u t i o n ) :
Wt% 80.0 10.0 3.0 5.0 2.0
6.3
Procedure: W i t h a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e v e s s e l , h e a t t o 70C. B e g i n p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n when t h e b a t c h becomes f l u i d . M a i n t a i n s l o w m i x i n g u n t i l a l l s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d and t h e b a t c h becomes a u n i f o r m , n o n v i s c o u s , opaque f l u i d . F i l l m o l d s , a l l o w t o s o l i d i f y . F o r m u l a t i o n M102 Sv n d e t J3ar
M o d i f i c a t i o n o f an example i n US P a t e n t # 4 , 7 0 7 , 2 8 8 I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name:. Sodium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d / Jordapon C I - 7 5 T a l l ow/Coco Soap Water NaCl T i 02 Fragrance BHT Na3HEDTA F o r m u l a t i o n Mt03
SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
_W_t % 76.5 16.7 4.1 0.3 1.o 1.o 0.2 0.2
276
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
__ L i q u i d Soap A m i l d , high-foaming f o r m u l a t i o n which i s simple, y e t o f f e r s l u b r i c i o u s l a t h e r and s o f t s k i n a f t e r f e e l t h a n k s t o t h e J o r d a p o n C I - U P . The Mapeg EGMS p r o v i d e s a b r i g h t p e a r l e s c e n c e t o t h e s y s t e m . I t can be o m i t t e d i f a c l e a r p r o d u c t i s desi red.
P a r __ t: A
B C
I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Dei o n i zed Water Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e / J o r d a p o n C I - U P Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e / S t e p a n o l AM G l y c o l S t e a r a t e / M a p e g EGMS Na4 EDTA M e t h y l Paraben
Kt 74.4 3.0 13.0 0.5 0.1 0.2
Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne/Mafo CAB Cocami de DEA/Mazamide JT-128
6.0
Fragrance C i t r i c Acid
0.2 0.1
pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 2500-3500 cps ( w i t h 0 . 6 - 0 . 9 % NaC1) Appearance: Creamy, P e a r l e s c e n t L i q u i d Procedure: M i x and h e a t t h e p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 65C ( 1 5 0 F ) . When u n i f o r m , add t h e Mafo CAB and t h e Mazamide JT-128. Cool t h e b a t c h t o 40C (105F), add f r a g r a n c e and a d j u s t pH. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .
SOURCE:
PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n N-201
2.5
Shaving Products
277
L i q u i d Hand Soap wto/, 20.8 4.0 2.0 0.5 9,s.
Ingredients:
A7 A l D h a O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e ( 1 ) ( 3 8 . 5 % a c t i v e ) A r l a t o n e MAP C o n c e n t r a t e L a u r a m i d e DEA ( 3 ) Polyquaternium-10 ( 4 ) Water
(2)
2.0
B ) Sodium C h l o r i d e q.s.
C ) 50% P o t a s s i u m H y d r o x i d e
D) Q u a t e r n i u m - 1 5
t o pH 6 . 5 q.s.
(5)
P r e p a r a t i on : * D i s p e r s e p o l y q u a t e r n i um-1 0 i n w a t e r w t h f a s t s t i r r i n g u n t i l homogeneous. *Add r e m a i n d e r o f ( A ) w i t h m o d e r a t e s t r r i n g . *Add ( B ) t o ( A ) . * A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h ( C ) . *Add ( D ) . Features: *Excel l e n t c l e a n s i n g *Smooth a f t e r f e e l *Lubricious lather (1)
B i o - T e r g e AS-40 ( S t e p a n ) , ( 2 ) C9-15 A l k y l P h o s p h a t e , ( 3 ) Monamid 1 0 3 4 ( M o n a ) , C e l q u a t SC-240 ( N a t i o n a l S t a r c h ) , D o w i c i l 2 0 0 (Dow C h e m i c a l ) V i s c o s i t y : 9 , 4 5 0 cPs ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, S t a b i l i t y : 2 1 . 0 C ( 7 0 F ) : 4 weeks 35.0C ( 9 5 F ) : 4 weeks 4 6 . 0 C ( 1 1 5 F ) : 4 weeks F/T: 4 freeze/thaw c y c l e s
SOURCE:
ICI
Surfactants:
s p i n d l e 4,
F o r m u l a t i o n CP1228
30 rpm)
278
Cosmetic and Toiletry Fofmu/ations
t i m i d Hand Soap Insredients: Standapol WAQ Special Plantaren 2000 Velvetex BK-35 PEG-150 Distearate Lantrol AWS 1692 Emerest 2355 Cosmedia Polymer HSP-1180 Kathon CG Fragrance & Dyes Water
Wt%
16.00 10.00 3.50 2.00 0.30 1.00 1.00 0.05 q.s.
Balance
Procedure: Charge kettle with water. Heat water to 60-65C. Keep temperature constant. Add remaining ingredients, one at a time, under agitation. Once uniform, take heat off and continue stirring until product has reached ambient temperature. Adjust pH to 6.0-6.5 with citric acid. Comments : By combining Standapol WAQ Special and Plantaren 2000, we are assured of a high foaming liquid hand soap that is mild to the skin. The inclusion of Lantrol 1692 and Cosmedia HSP-1180 leaves an elegant feel on the skin. Formula H-5003 Coconut-Oleic H a n d Soar, (15% Real Soap) Emery 621 Coconut Fatty Acid (acid value 263) Emersol 213 Low Titer Oleic Acid (acid value 203) Caustic potash (100%) Water
Wt% 6.5 6.5 3.0 to 100.0
Procedure: Dissolve the caustic in the necessary amount of water, heating to 49-54C (120-130F), then add the fatty acid in a slow steady stream. Agitate while mixing the fatty acid and caustic until saponification is complete. The reaction mixture should be heated to 66-71C (150-160F) during the final stages of saponification. Check the neutrality of the soap and adjust as necessary. Perfume as desired. Allow the soap to stand and settle for several days at near freezing temperatures, if possible, and decant or filter the soap. Properties and Variations: Distilled pine oil or other perfume may be added. This is a typical formula for soaps used in liquid soap dipsensers, and many such products contain fluorescein, a dye that imparts a greenish-yellow fluorescence. SOURCE: Henkel Corp./Emery Group: Suggested Formulations
Shaving Products
L. i_ q. u i-d ~ H a~ nd
279
Soap_.wJA_loe __ .
wto/, P h a s e I: Water, D . I . 41 . 7 1.2 P o t a s s i u m H y d r o x i d e , 87% G1 y c e r i n e 1.o P h a s e I 1: L a u r i c A c i d , 97% 5.0 Kemester 5822 0.5 K e m e s t e r EGDS I .2 Phase 111: Varonic LI-63 1.o Varonic LI-420 4.0 R e w o t e r i c AM 8 - 1 5 14.2 W i t c o l a t e WAC-LA 26.7 V arox 1770 2.5 Phase I V : A l o e Vera 1.o Phase V : Preservative q.s. 81 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : H e a t P h a s e I a n d P h a s e I 1 i n g r e d i e n t s t o 75-8OC. W i t h a d e q u a t e m i x i n g a d d P h a s e I 1 t o P h a s e I.Warm P h a s e I 1 1 a n d a d d t o P h a s e I a n d Phase 11. M i x w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 45C. Add P h a s e I V . C o o l t o 30C. Add P h a s e V . Typical Properties: V i s c o s i t y , cps : 2 5 5 0 Solids: 29.0% Formula 1122 Ingredients: ~~
D e o d o r a n t _Hand Wa3b I n g r g d - i en_ts: Wt% Phase I : Water, D . I . 31 .6 W i t c o l a t e WAC-LA 40.0 V arox 365 8.5 R e w o t e r i c AM DML-35 7.2 T r i closan 0.2 Phase I 1: V a r s u l f SBFA-30 12.5 P h a s e 111: q.s. C i t r i c A c i d , 25% Phase I V : Preservative q.s. B1 e n d i n g P r o c e d u r e : Add P h a s e I i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d , m i x i n g c o m p l e t e l y b e t w e e n a d d i t i o n s . Add h e a t e n o u g h t o m e l t T r i c l o s a n . Add P h a s e I 1 a t 45C. A t 35C a d j u s t pH.7.0 with C i t r i c Acid. Typical Properties: S o l i d s : 21 . 9 % pH: 7 . 0 F o r m u l a 1123
SOURCE:
W i t c o Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
280
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
L u x u r y L i q u i d Soap T h i s c l e a r f o r m u l a o f f e r s e x c e l l e n t f l a s h f o a m i n g even i n h a r d w a t e r , and p r o v i d e s s i l k y - f e e l i n g l a t h e r and a s o f t s k i n a f t e r f e e l , d e l i v e r e d by Jordapon A C I - 3 0 . The i n h e r e n t m i l d n e s s o f t h e s y s t e m i s enhanced by t h e a d d i t i o n o f Avanel S - 1 5 0 C G . Part: I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: A D e i o n i z e d Water 55.5 P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - l O / U c a r e Polymer JR-125 0.1 0.2 B N A4E DT A I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germal 1 11 5 0.2 M e t h y l Paraben 0.2 Sodium C12-15 P a r e t h - 1 5 S u l f o n a t e / Avanel S-150 CG 4.3 12.8 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e / M a f o CAB Ammonium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e / J o r d a p o n ACI-30 23.3 C Soyamide DEA/Mazamide S S - 1 0 2.0 F r a g r a n c e / F l o r a 91-2008 0.3 C i t r i c Acid 0.1 NH4Cl 1. o pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 7 V i s c o s i t y : 4 0 0 0 - 6 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d #2 @ 3rpm) Appearance: C l e a r , s t r a w - c o l o r e d l i q u i d Procedure: Blend P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s a t ambient temperature f o r about 2 0 m i n u t e s u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , and m i x a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m , a b o u t 3 0 m i n u t e s . Add t h e Mazamide SS-I0 and t h e f r a g r a n c e , m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r . A d j u s t pH w i t h C i t r i c A c i d and v i s c o s i t y w i t h NH4C1.
SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c , : F o r m u l a t i o n N-107
L i q u i d Hand Soap Insredients 1 Wt% Phase I : Water, D . I . 59.5 Phase 11: 30.0 W i t c o n a t e AOS Varamide ML-1 2.2 R e w o t e r i c AM B-15 3.1 P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l 0.5 2.2 Glyceryl Stearate Sodium C h l o r i d e 2.5 Phase I I 1 : P h o s p h o r i c A c i d , 86% q.s. Phase I V : P r e s e r v a t ive q.s. Blending Procedure: Warm w a t e r t o 75C. Add W i t c o n a t e AOS w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i on Add r e m a i n i n g Phase I 1 i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Cool t o 30C. A d j u s t pH=6.8 w i t h P h o s p h o r i c A c i d . I
SOURCE: W i t c o C o r D . : F o r m u l a t i o n 1126
Shaving Products
28 1
M i l d -L i a u i d Soap T h i s c l e a r f o r m u l a o f f e r s e x c e l l e n t f l a s h f o a m i n g even i n h a r d w a t e r , and p r o v i d e s s i l k y - f e e l i n g l a t h e r and a s o f t s k i n a f t e r f e e l , d e l i v e r e d b y Jordapon ACI-30 G . The i n h e r e n t m i l d n e s s o f t h e s y s t e m i s enhanced by t h e a d d i t i o n o f Avanel 5 - 1 5 0 CGN. Part: I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: 46 A D e i o n i z e d Water 55.4 P o l y q u a t e r n i u m - l O / U C a r e Polymer JR-125 0.1 B Na4EDTA 0.2 I m i d a z o l id i n y l Urea/Germal 1 11 5 0.2 M e t h y l Paraben 0.2 Sodium C12-15 P a r e t h - 1 5 S u l f o n a t e / A v a n e l 5-150 CGN 4.3 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i ne/Mafo CAB 12.8 23.3 Ammonium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e / J o r d a p o n ACJ-30 G C Soyamide DEA/Mazamide S S - 1 0 2.0 F r a g r a n c e / F l o r a 91-2008 0.3 0.1 C i t r i c Acid NH4C1 1.o pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 7 V i s c o s i t y : 4,000-6,000 cps ( B r o o k f i e l d # 2 @ 3 rpm) Appearance: C l e a r , s t r a w - c o l o r e d l i q u i d Procedure: B l e n d P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e f o r a b o u t 20 m i n u t e s u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , and mix a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m , a b o u t 30 m i n u t e s . Add t h e Mazamide SS-10 and t h e f r a g r a n c e , m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r . A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d and v i s c o s i t y w i t h NH4C1. F o r m u l a t i o n N-107
wt
H o t - P o u r Syndet B a r T h i s m i l d c l e a n s i n g b a r p r o v i d e s r i c h l a t h e r and s o f t s k i n as a r e s u l t o f Jordapon C I - 6 0 F l a k e . The f o r m u l a i s d e s i g n e d t o b e m a n u f a c t u r e d u s i n g h o t - f i l l e q u i p m e n t : no soapmaking l i n e s a r e needed. __ I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: W t Y O Sodium Cocoyl I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d / J o r d a p o n CI-60 F l a k e 80.0 S t e a r y l Alcohol/CO-1895 10.0 PEG-I 50/Carbowax PEG-8000 3.0 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne, 99% 5.0 D e m i n e r a l i z e d Water 2.0 pH ( 5 % s o l u t i o n ) : 6 . 3 Procedure: W i t h a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e v e s s e l , h e a t t o 70C. B e g i n p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n when t h e b a t c h becomes f l u i d . M a i n t a i n s l o w m i x i n g u n t i l a l l s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d and t h e b a t c h becomes a u n i f o r m , n o n v i s c o u s , opaque f l u i d . F i l l molds, a l l o w t o s o l i d i f y . F o r m u l a t i o n M-102
SOURCE: PPG I n d u s t r i e s , I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
282
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Opaque L i q u i d Soap Ingredients: wt./, A. S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed 4.0 Coconut o i l f a t t y a c i d 8.0 2.0 A r l a m o l E pop 15 s t e a r y l e t h e r Ammonium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e 4.0 PEG 150 d i s t e a r a t e 3.0 Zinc stearate 2.0 B . Sodium l a u r o y l s a r c o s i n a t e 10.0 Sorbo s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n (USP) 5.0 P o t a s s i u m h y d r o x i d e (85%) 3.5 Water 44.2 C . Water 14.0 Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e 0.2 D . Perfume 9.s. E. Quaternium-15 0.1 Preparation : Heat ( A ) t o 7 0 C . H e a t ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and m i x w i t h Homo-mixer. Add ( C ) (room t e m p e r a t u r e ) t o (A,B) a t 6 0 C . Add ( D ) and t h e n ( E ) . S t i r t o room t e m p e r a t u r e and add w a t e r t o r e p l a c e l o s s by evaporation. Properties: pH: 9 . 1 V i s c o s i t y ( R . T . ) : 240 cps Foam volume: 840 m l i n a m o d i f i e d b l e n d e r a p p a r a t u s Test Panel: Nine out o f t e n p a n e l i s t s p r e f e r r e d t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n t o t h e l e a d i n g c o m m e r c i a l p r o d u c t . The t e n t h had no p r e f e r e n c e .
QPaque L i q u i d Soap Kt2 Ingredi ez-tx 3.0 A Tween 20 p o l y s o r b a t e 20 12.0 Ammoni um l a u r y l s u l f a t e 12.0 Ammonium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e 3.0 Cocamide DEA 2.0 A r l a m o l E pop 15 s t e a r y l e t h e r 2.0 Zinc s t e a r a t e 1.5 PEG 150 d i s t e a r a t e 5.0 B Sorbo s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n , USP 40.4 Water 18.7 C Water 0.3 Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e q.s. D Perfume 0.1 E Q u a t e r n i um-15 Preparation: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and (8) t o 65C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and s t i r t o 40C. Heat (C) t o 40C and add t o ( B , A ) . Add ( D ) . Add ( E ) and r e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n . Properties: pH: 7 . 1 V i scosi t y ( R . T . ) : 1,560 cps Foam Volume: 850 m l i n a m o d i f i e d b l e n d e r a p p a r a t u s F o r m u l a AE-19 SOURCE: ICI A m e r i c a s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Shaving Products
283
Or?ase_Cicu_d_..Sca N a t r o s o l 250HHR h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e e f f e c t i v e l y b o o s t s t h e v i s c o s i t y o f t h i s l o w e r a c t i v e s opaque shampoo b a s e . A t a s u r f a c t a n t s o l i d s l e v e l o f o n l y 7.3%, t h e a d d i t i o n o f N a t r o s o l y i e l d s a r i c h l i q u i d soap w i t h a v i s c o s i t y o f 4 , 0 0 0 c p s (mPas) ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT a t 30 rpm, 2 5 C ) . IcLgcedi entz:. w tY. o Water 75.88 Sodium C14-Cl6 o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e , 40% a c t i v e 7.50 Sodium l a u r o y l s a r c o s i n a t e , 30% a c t i v e 6.66 Cocamidopropyl b e t a i n e , 35% a c t i v e 6.66 Glycol stearate 1.oo N a t r o s o l 25OHHR CS h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e 0.80 Propylene g l y c o l 0.50 G1y c e r i n 0.50 T e t r a s o d i u m EDTA 0.30 S t e a r a l konium c h l o r i d e 0.10 0.10 Methyl paraben Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e t h e N a t r o s o l i n w a t e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M i x u n t i l f u l l y d i s s o l v e d . M o d e r a t e h e a t i n g o r an i n c r e a s e i n s o l u t i o n pH t o s l i g h t l y a l k a l i n e w i l l a c c e l e r a t e h y d r a t i o n . 2 . D i s p e r s e t h e m e t h y l p a r a b e n i n t h e p r o p y l e n e g l y c o l . Add t o t h e N a t r o s o l s o l u t i o n . Mix u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . 3 . While s l o w l y s t i r r i n g t h e w a t e r - s o l u b l e polymer s o l u t i o n , add t h e s t e a r a l k o n i u m c h l o r i d e , o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e , and g l y c o l s t e a r a t e . Heat t h e m i x t u r e t o 8OC u n t i l a l l o f t h e g l y c o l s t e a r a t e has m e l t e d and t h e s o l u t i o n has t u r n e d opaque. 4. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s w h i l e c o o l i n g t h e s o l u t i o n s l o w l y t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . 5 . Add c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e . Formula N09-01W Transparen-t
T o i l e t Soap
w t% 65.70 Water Sodi um C14-Cl6 o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e , 40% a c t i v e 20.00 Sodi um l a u r o y l s a r c o s i n a t e , 30% a c t i v e 10.00 Cocamide MEA 3.00 1.oo N a t r o s o l 250HR c s D i s o d i um EDTA 0.20 Methyl paraben 0.10 Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e t h e N a t r o s o l i n w a t e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M i x u n t i l f u l l y dissolved. 2 . Add t h e m e t h y l p a r a b e n t o t h e N a t r o s o l s o l u t i o n . M i x u n t i l f u l l y dissolved. 3 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , combine t h e s u r f a c t a n t s , h e a t t o 8 0 C , and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. 4 . Add t h e s u r f a c t a n t s o l u t i o n t o t h e w a t e r - s o l u b l e p o l y m e r s o l u t i o n and m i x u n t i l w e l l b l e n d e d . 5 . Add t h e d i s o d i u m EDTA and c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a N09-02W Ln_sr.ecliest.z ;.
SOURCE:
A q u a l o n D i v i s i o n , H e r c u l e s I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
284
Cosmetic and Toiletry formulations
i
.. P e a r 1...z e d
LiquFd~Soa>
T h i s system combines i m p o r t a n t p e r f o r m a n c e a t t r i b u t e s appearance, f l a s h f o a m i n g , easy r i n s a b i l i t y , and s o f t a f t e r f e e l w i t h t h e p r a c t i c a l advantages o f low c o s t and e f f i c i e n t processi ng. I n g r e d ie n t / T r a.de--yafie; Wt% P-a-r f; A Dei o n i zed Water 30.00 Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e / S t e p a n o l AM 18.50 Na4EDTA 0.20 M e t h y l Paraben 0.20 0.50 G l y c o l S t e a r a t e / M a p e g EGMS 8
D e i o n i z e d Water Ammonium C o c o y l : s e t h i o n a t e / J o r d a p o n I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germall 115
C
C o c a m i d o p r o p y l B e t a i n e / M a f o CAB C o c a m i d e DEA/Mazamide J T - 1 2 8 Fragrance
D
C i t r i c Acid,
ACI-30 G
50%
28.30 9.20 0.20 3.40 0.90 0.05 0.10
E
D e i o n i z e d Water 6 . 75 1.70 Ammoni urn C h l o r i d e pH: 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 1 , 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d #3 0 6 rpm) 5 , 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d # 3 I3 6 rpm w i t h 0 . 6 % NH4C1) A p p e a r a n c e : P e a r l e s c e n t , w h i t e 1 iq u i d Procedure: I n t h e m a i n v e s s e l , m i x a n d h e a t p a r t A t o 7 0 C . When u n i f o r m , d i s c o n t i n u e h e a t i n g and add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , c o o l i n g t h e b a t c h . P r e m i x p a r t C , and add t o t h e b a t c h . A d j u s t pH when b a t c h t e m p e r a t u r e i s 45-5SC. C o o l t h e b a t c h t o 25C, a n d a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h p a r t E. F o r m u l a t i o n N-105
SY-nAct. -8ar
M o d i f i c a t i o n of an e x a m p l e i n US P a t e n t # 4 , 7 0 7 , 2 8 8 1-naredi e n t / T r a d e Name: Sodium C o c o y l I s e t h i o n a t e ( a n d ) S t e a r i c A c i d / Jordapon CI-75 T a l l o w / C o c o Soap Water NaCl Ti02 Fragrance BHT Na3HEEDTA Procedure: B l e n d a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r a t room t e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a t i o n M-103
SOURCE! PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,
Inc.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
&/, 76.5 16.7 4.1 0.3 1.o 1.o 0.2
0.2
-
Shaving Products
285
Surqi c a l Scrub T h i s i s an opaque l o t i o n f o r m u l a w h i c h i s s o a p - f r e e . Foaming and c l e a n s i n g i s p r o v i d e d by Avanel S - 3 5 CG and Mafo CAB, and g e r m - k i l l i n g by PCMX. A b l e n d o f e m o l l i e n t i n g r e d i e n t s s o f t e n dry areas. Part: A
0
C
D
I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: D e i o n i z e d Water H y d r o x y p r o p y l Methylcellulose/Methocel T e t r a s o d i um EDTA T r i e t h a n o l a m i ne
Wt% 40-100
Sodium O c t o x y n o l - 2 E t h a n e S u l f o n a t e / Avanel S-35 CG Cocami d o p r o p y l B e t a i ne/Mafo CAB Chloroxylenol/Phenosept Petrolatum Lanol i n Alcohol C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) Ceteareth-2O/Macol Cocamide DEA/Mazamide 8 0 Fragrance C i t r i c A c i d o r T E A t o pH 6 . 0 - 7 . 0
46.00 0.10 0.10 0.05 32.00 10.00
3.00
124
5.00 0.50 2.00 1 .25
Q.S. Q.S.
Procedure: Disperse the hydroxypropyl methylcellulose i n t h e p a r t A w a t e r a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e by m i x i n g f o r > I 0 m i n u t e s . Add t h e t e t r a s o d i u m EDTA and t h e TEA t o r a i s e t h e pH above 8 . 5 and i n i t i a t e h y d r a t i o n o f t h e hydroxypropyl m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e . Mix f o r a t l e a s t 2 0 m i n u t e s w h i l e h e a t i n g t h e b a t c h t o 60-65C. Add t h e p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m a i n t a i n i n g t h e b a t c h a t 60-65C w h i l e t h e PCMX d i s s o l v e s . B l e n d t h e p a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s i d e v e s s e l , h e a t i n g t o 60-65C. Add p a r t C t o t h e b a t c h w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n t o form t h e emulsion. Maintain t h i s a g i t a t i o n as t h e b a t c h i s c o o l e d t o 40-45C. Add t h e f r a g r a n c e and a d j u s t t h e p H t o 6 . 0 - 7 . 0 .
SOURCE:
PPG I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n N-108
286
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Toilet Soap Base*
wt%
Emery 531 Fatty Acid Emery 621 Coconut Fatty Acid Caustic soda (36%) (40.7 Baume) Water Salt Sodium silicate Titanox Perfume
48.37 12.09 26.39 10.08 0.19 1.92 0.96 q.s.
Floatins SoaD* Wtg
Emery 531 Fatty Acid Emery 621 Coconut Fatty Acid Caustic soda (36%) (40.7 Baume) Water Salt Sodium silicate Perfume
43.13 18.48 28.98 5.37 0.19 3.85 q.s.
*Formulations 1 and 2 require normal bar soap manufacturing procedures; as well as specialized equipment including soap kettles, crutchers, plodders, and cutting and stamping equipment Formulation 2 requires special processing to float. Pine Oil Hand Soap (15% Real Soap1 Emery 621 Coconut Fatty Acid (acid value 263) Caustic potash (100%) Pine oil (steam distilled) Water
Wt$ 12.7 3.3 3.2 to 100.0
Procedure: Dissolve the caustic in the necessary amount of water, heating to 49-54C (120-130F), then add the fatty acid in a slow steady stream. Agitate while mixing the fatty acid and caustic until saponification is complete. The reaction mixture should be heated to 66-71C (150-160F) during the final stages of saponification. The pine oil is added to the mixture following saponification. Check the neutrality of the soap and adjust as necessary. Perfume as desired. Allow the soap to stand and settle for several days at near freezing temperatures, if possible, and decant or filter the soap. SOURCE: Henkel Corp., Emery Group: Fatty Acids and Their Water Soluble Soaps: Suggested Formulations
Shaving Products
287
U l t r a - W a t e r l e s s Hand C l e a n e r w i t h A b r a s i v e Formula P r o f i l e : The s y n e r g i s t i c m i x t u r e o f Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l w i l l c r e a t e a l i g h t w a t e r l e s s hand c l e a n i n g l o t i o r i t h a t w i l l have g r e a t s p r e a d a b i l i t y and f e e l w i t h o u t t h e t a c k and s t r i n g i n e s s c h a r a c t e r i s t i c o f R h o d i g e l . Veegum U l t r a w i l l i m p r o v e s t a b i l i t y , suspend t h e a b r a s i v e s and m a i n t a i n v i s c o s i t y o f t h e p r o d u c t . The f o r m e d soap i s P o t a s s i u m O l e a t e and t h e D-Limonene i s t h e natural cleaner. Wt% Innredi ents: A : Water 59.3 Veegum U l t r a (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e ) 1.5 0.5 Rhodi g e l ( X a n t h a n Gum) 6: O l e i c Acid Mineral O i l Cetyl Alcohol Lanol i n C:
Water P o t a s s i um H y d r o x i d e
9.0 5.0 1.o 1.o 2.0 0.7
D : D-Limonene
10.0
E:
10.0
P o l y e t h y l e n e Beads (A-C 9-A)
F: P r e s e r v a t i v e
qs
Procedure: S t e p I : D r y b l e n d Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l i n P a r t A . ( D r y b l e n d i n g r e d u c e s t h e c l u m p i n g o f R h o d i g e l and a l l o w s f o r t h e s i m u l t a n e o u s i n t r o d u c t i o n o f i n g r e d i e n t s ) . S i f t t h e powder i n t o an e s t a b l i s h e d v o r t e x i n t h e w a t e r . Veegum U l t r a w i l l be h y d r a t e d w i t h i n 15 m i n u t e s . A l l o w a b o u t 45 m i n u t e s f o r R h o d i g e l t o d i s s o l v e c o m p l e t e l y . The a d d i t i o n o f any o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s d u r i n g t h e h y d r a t i o n process w i l l i n t e r f e r e w i t h t h e h y d r a t i o n o f Veegum U l t r a and w i l l r e d u c e o r even e l i m i n a t e t h e d e s i r e d p r o p e r t i e s g e n e r a t e d by t h e Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e . S t e p 2 : B e g i n h e a t i n g w a t e r phase i n S t e p 1 t o 75C. S t e p 3 : B l e n d o i l phase i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t B and h e a t t h e o i l phase t o 75C. S t e p 4 : When b o t h phases a r e a t 75C, add o i l phase i n S t e p 3 t o w a t e r phase S t e p 2 . S t e p 5 : Cool t o 45C. D i s s o l v e t h e KOH i n w a t e r and add P a r t C t o Step 2. S t e p 6 : Cool t o 35C. Add P a r t D t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 7 : Add P a r t E t o S t e p 2 . S t e p 8 : Add P a r t F t o S t e p 2 . Product S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d LVT: 2 0 , 0 0 0 t - 3 , 0 0 0 cps a f t e r 24 h o u r s pH: 8 . 0 - 8 . 5 T h i s f o r m u l a p r o d u c e s a s t a b l e p r o d u c t t h a t passes 3 month s t a b i l i t y t e s t i n g a t RT, 5C, 3 8 C , 50C and 3 c y c l e F / T . SOURCE: R.T. V a n d e r b i l t C o , , I n c . : F o r m u l a No. 478
288
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W a t e r l e s s Hand C l e a n e r Cream F o r m u l a SK-20 i s a w a t e r l e s s hand c l e a n e r cream based on d e o d o r i z e d k e r o s e n e as t h e c l e a n s i n g a g e n t .
WtO/o
Ingredients: A Magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1 i c a t e
Water B A r l a c e l 60 S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e Tween 60 P o l y s o r b a t e 60 Deodorized kerosene C M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e , 4000 cps Water Preservative
2.5 30.0 2.0 8.0 35% 0 0.5 22.0 q.s
Preparation : P a r t ( A ) : Add magnesium aluminum s i l i c a t e t o w a t e r s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g c o n t i n u a l l y u n t i l smooth ( a b o u t one h o u r ) . Heat ( A ) t o 62C. P a r t ( B ) : Heat ( B ) t o 60C. Add ( A ) t o ( 6 ) . S t i r u n t i l c o o l . P a r t ( C ) : Heat h a l f o f t h e w a t e r t o 9OC. Add m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e v e r y s l o w l y . M i x t h r o u g h l y t o d i s p e r s e m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e . Add t h e r e m a i n d e r o f t h e w a t e r . Cool and add (C) t o t h e e m u l s i o n (A,B b l e n d ) . M i x we1 1 . R e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n . F o r m u l a SK-20 d - L i monene Hand C1 e a n e r Ingredients: A d-Limonene A r l a m o l E PPG 15 S t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 35 L i q u i d L a u r e t h - 2 3 B r i j 72 S t e a r e t h - 2
B Water C a r b o p o l 934 D D o w i c i l 200
Wt% 15.00 15.00 2.30 4.35 62.75 0.50 0.10
Preparation: D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l 934 i n w a t e r . H e a t ( A ) t o 60C and (B) t o 62C. Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) a t a b o u t 50C. S t i r t o 35C and r e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n . F o r m u l a SK-21
SOURCE: ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Section XI Sun Care Products
289
290
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
__C l e a r L i q u i d Sunblock H a r d t o d i s s o l v e Benzophenone-3 i n s t a n t l y s o l u b i l i z e s i n V e l s a n D8P-3 l i q u i d t o p r o d u c e t h e s e c o l d m i x s u n b l o c k s s i m i l a r t o p o p u l a r "Pre-Sun" p r o d u c t s . I n a d d i t i o n t o benzophenone-3 s o l u b i l i z a t i o n , V e l s a n D8P-3 a l s o i m p a r t s an e x c e l l e n t n o n - g r e a s y a f t e r f e e l t o t h e formula. SPF 1 5 CL9-145-02
I ng.r ed ien t s :
wt%
V e l s a n D8P-3 Benzophenone-3 SD A l c o h o l 40-2 Propylene Glycol D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e O c t y l d imet h y l PABA C y c l o m e t h i cone
10.0 3.0 25.0 5.0
7.0 50.0
Procedure: D i s s o l v e Benzophenone-3 i n t o t h e V e l s a n D8P-3. Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n any o r d e r and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. SPF20-25 CL9-145-03 Ingredients: V e l s a n D8P-3 Benzophenone-3 SD A l c o h o l 40-2 Propylene Glycol D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA Cyclomethicone
. W_ t% 10.0 6.0 24.1 4.6
7.0 48.3
Procedure: D i s s o l v e Benzophenone-3 i n t o t h e V e l s a n D8P-3. Add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n any o r d e r and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. SOURCE :
Cl a r i a n t Corp. : Ref : CLQ-145-02, 03 : CSS-01
Sun Care Products
291
Dry Touch Physical Sunscreen
This formula is not an emulsion but rather a suspension of several water-insoluble ingredients in water. The suspending agent Veegum Plus prevents these ingredients from settling and/or separating. The physical sunscreen used is micronized Titanium Dioxide. This formula also contains liposomes with a payload of the well-known moisturizing agents liposomes Sodium PCA and amino acids. A silicone oil dispersion is also included to enhance application properties. The formula contains no emulsifying agents. Insredients: A: Deionized Water Veegum Plus, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (and) Cellulose Gum Rhodigel, Xanthan Gum
Wt.%* 59.70
8: Glycerin (and) Titanium Dioxide (Ti02 Sperse GLY)
28.60
C: Deionized Water (and) Phenyltrimethicone (and) Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol (and) Phospholipids (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Carbomer (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Butylparaben (Satin Finish) D: Preservative E: Deionized Water (and) Sodium PCA (and) Phospholipids (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Tocopheryl Acetate (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Arginine (and) Lysine (and) Glycine (and) Methylparaben (and) Proline (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Butylparaben (Moisturizing Liposomes)
1.50 0.20
5.00
q.s
5.00
Procedure: Weigh and dry blend the Veegum Plus and Rhodigel. Add the blend to the Part A water at room temperature, mixing with a propeller mixer at 1800 rpm. Continue mixing for 30 minutes. Add Part B and mix 10 minutes at 1800 rpm. Add Parts C and D to the batch in the order shown. Mix Part C for 10 minutes at 1800 rpm before adding Part D. Mix Part D 5 minutes at the same speed. Slow the mixer to 500 rpm and add Part E. Mix 5 minutes and package. *As received basis
SOURCE: R.T. Vanderbilt Co., Inc.: Formulation No. 4 6 4
292
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Enriched Moisturizinq Lotion (Before
&
After Tanning)
Inqredients: Sesame Oil U.S.P. Polysynlane Glyceryl Monostearate Isopropyl Myristate Carbopol 934 Propylene Glycol Triethanolamine Anhydrous Lanolin Water
Wt$ 15.0 20.0 3.0 10.0 0.2 10.0 1.0 5.0 ad 100.0
Other Uses: 1. Polysynlane has food additive approval from the Welfare Ministry of Japan and was authorized for use as an additive for a chewing gum base. 2. Polysynlane is a refined hydrogenated polyisobutene, which has FDA approval (Subpart F 121.2511) for use as a plasticizer in polyethylene food wrap. 3. Polysynlane has found use as a special lubricant for fine instruments and watches, and is being investigated as an ultra low temperature lubricant and motor oil additive. Sunscreen Spray
NO. Phase: 1 2 3
4 5 6 7 8
9 10 11 12
A A A A A A A B B B B B
Inqredient: Cyclomethicone DC 345 Polysynlane Grapeseed Oil Sunflower Seed Oil Vitamin E Acetate Tenox 6 Fragrance Novarome NC-4% Ceraphyl 230 Octyl Methoxycinnamate Oxybenzone Octyl Salicylate Transcutol
Wt% 55.60 10.00 2.00 2.50 0.25 0.15 0.50 5.00 7.50 4.00 5.00 7.50
Manufacturing Instructions Combine Phase A. Combine Phase B. Add Phase B to Phase A. Package. An easy to apply spray that leaves the skin protected from both UVA and UVB radiation. It spreads quickly and is completely non-greasy. The anticipated SPF is 15. The formulation exhibits excellent solubilization of the oxybenzone, which is often seen to crystallize out. SOURCE: Polyesther Corp.: Suggested Formulations
Sun Care Products
M i c r o f i n e T i t a n i urn D i o x i d e S u n s c r e e n ( O / W ) __ Broad S p e c t r u m UVA/UVB P r o t e c t i o n
293
L o t ion
_ INC _ I _ NameLTLade _ Name:
Q
Phase A : G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e / A r l a c e l 165 S t e a r e t h - 1 O/Vol po S - 1 0 S t e a r e t h - 2 / V o l p o S-2 Mineral Oil/Drakeol 7 L t C12-15 A1 c o h o 1 s B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v TN D i o c t y l A d i p a t e / D e r m o l DOA C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e / A b i 1 Wax 9 8 0 1 C e r e s i n wax/Whi t e C e r e s i n e 1 5 0 2 Diisostearoyl Trimethylolpropane Siloxy Silicate/SF1318
5-00 2.00 1.oo 8.00 4.00 2.00 1 .50 1.oo 3.00
Phase 8 : T i t a n i um D i o x i d e / E u s o l e x T - 2 0 0 0
5.00
Phase C : Water, d e m i n e r a l i z e d G1 y c e r i n / E m e r y 91 6 Allantoin/Rona M a g n e s i um A 1 umi nun1 S i 1 i c a t e / V e e g u m U 1 t r a X a n t h a n G u m / K e l t r o l RD Phase D: ( I s o p r o p y l paraben, I s o b u t y l paraben, p h e n o x y e t h a n o l ) / L i q u a P a r PE
n-butyl
57.30 3.00 0.20 1.oo 0.30 paraben, 0.70
Procedure: Combine w a t e r , g l y c e r i n a n d a l l a n t o i n o f p h a s e C . S t i r a n d h e a t t o 65C. Dr; m i x x a n t h a r gum a n d magnesium a l u m i n u m s i l i c a t e . Add d r y m i x t u r e t o r e m a i n i n g p h a s e C i n g r e d i e n t s . Combine p h a s e A i n g r e d i e n t s . S t i r a n d h e a t t o 75C u n t i l waxes a r e c o m p l e t e l y m e l t e d . C o o l t o 65C a n d m a i n t a i n a t t h i s t e m p erature. Add p h a s e B t o A . D i s p e r s e w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x e r . Add p h a s e C t o A/B w h i l e m i x i n g . H o m o g e n i z e a l l o w i n g m i x t u r e t o c o o l t o 35C. Add p h a s e D a n d s t i r / o r h o m o g e n i z e u n t i 1 m i x t u r e i s homogeneous. Note : V i s c o s i t y : 2 6 , 4 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d RV#5, 10 rpm (a 23C) S t a b i l i t y F r e e z e / T h a w : No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 5 c y c l e s S t a b i l i t y 50C: No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 1 m o n t h SOURCE: Rona/EM
I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a EUS6-60
294
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
M i c r o f i n e T i t a n 1 urn D i 0 x 1 d e S u n s c r e e n cW/O) Broad. Spectrum U V A l U V B P r o t e c t i o n
Lot 1 o n
I N C I N a m e / T r a d e Name: Phase A : O c t y l S t e a r a t e / C r o d a m o l 0s J o l o b a O i l / F l o r a e s t e r s J o i o b a 01 1 , R e f i n e d C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s / M y r i to1 3 1 8 P e t r o l a t u m / U l t i ma w h i t e C y c l o m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d D i m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 200 f l u i d , 1 0 0 cST PEG-30 D i p o l y h y d o r y s t e a r a t e / A r l a c e i P135 Polyglyceryl-4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Cetyl Dimethicone C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e / A b i l WE-09 C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r y l P h o s p h a t e / C r o d a f o s CES C e r e s i n VJax/White C e r e s i n e 1 5 0 2 Phase 5 : Dei o n i zed Water P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l A1 1 a n t o i n / R o n a Sod1 um C h l o r i d e
Wt%
7.00 4.00 4.00
3.00 3.00 2.00 2 50
2 50 1.00 0 50
56.30 3.00 0.20
0.50
P h a s e C: T i t a n i u r i i D i o x i d e / E u s o l e x T-2000
10.00
Phase D : ( I s o p r o p y l paraben, I s o b u t y l paraben, Ph e n o x y e t h a n o 1 j / L i q u a Pa r PE
n-butyl
paraben,
0.50
Procedure: C o m b i n e p h a s e A . H e a t t o 75C w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i l h o m o g e n e o u s . Add p h a s e C t o A . C o o l m i x t u r e t o 65C. C o m b i n e a n d h e a t p h a s e 13 t o 55C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l s o l i d s a r e f u l l y d i s s o l v e d . S l o w l y add phase 5 t o AC : w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add p h a s e D t o A / B / C . H o m o g e n i z e a t moderate speeds t o a v o i d a e r a t i o n u n t i l t e m p e r a t u r e c o o l s t o 35C. S t i r s l o w l y a l l o w i n g m i x t u r e t o r e a c h r o o m t e m p e r a t u r e . Note: V i s c o s i t y : 16,000 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d RV#5, 10 rpm @ 2 5 C j S t a b i l i t y F r e e z e / T h a w : No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 5 c y c l e s S t a b i l i t y a t 50C: No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 3 m o n t h s
SOURCE:
Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,
Inc.:
F o r m u l a EUS5-64
Sun Care Products
295
Microfine Titanium Dioxide Sunscreen (W/O1 Lotion SPF 11 Broad Spectrum W A / W B Protection INCI Name/Trade Name: Phase A : Octyl Stearate/Crodamol 0 s Jojoba Oil/Floraesters Jojoba Oil, Refined Caprylic/capric Triglycerides/Myritol 318 Petrolatum/Ultima White Cyclomethicone/Dow Corning 344 Fluid Dimethicone/Dow Corning 200 fluid 50cST PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate/Arlacel P135 Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (and) Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol (and) Hexyl Laurate/Abil WE-09 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Phosphate/Crodafos CES Ceresin Wax/White Ceresine 1502 Phase B: Deionized Water Propylene Glycol Allantoin/Rona Sodium Chloride
Wt% 7.00
4.00 4.00 3.00 3.00 2.00 2.50 2.50 1.00 0.50 61.30 3.00 0.20 0.50
Phase C: Titanium Dioxide/Eusolex T-2000
5.00
Phase D: (Isopropyl paraben, Isobutyl paraben, n-Butyl paraben, phenoxyethanol)/LiquaPar PE
0.50
Procedure: Combine phase A. Heat to 75C with propeller mixer agitation until homogeneous, Add phase C to A. Cool mixture to 65C. Combine and heat phase B to 55C while stirring. Continue stirring until solids are fully dissolved. Slowly add Phase B to A/C while stirring. Add phase D to A/B/C. Homogenize at moderate speeds to avoid aeration until temperature cools to 35C. Stir slowly allowing mixture to reach room temperature. Note : Viscosity 18,800 cps (Brookfield RV#5, 10 rpm @ 25C) Stability Freeze/Thaw: No separation after 5 cycles Stability at 50C: No separation after 2 months SOURCE: Rona/EM Industries, Inc.: Formula EUS5-62
296
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Oil a n d E m u l s i f i e r F r e e S u n s c r e e n L o t i o n V e l s a n D8P-16 a c t s as a s o l u b i l i z e r f o r t h e s u n s c r e e n a g e n t s and a l s o i m p a r t s an e x c e l l e n t n o n - g r e a s y a f t e r f e e l t o t h e s e p r o d u c t s . The f o r m u l a t i o n s a r e o i l f r e e , e m u l s i f i e r f r e e and a l s o e x h i b i t g e l -1 ik e c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . Formul a CSS-05 :
I n x e d ien t s :
82%
Phase A : SD A l c o h o l 39C Hydroxypropyl C e l l u l o s e
45 24 1.50
Phase B : Vel san D8P-16 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate Benzophenone-3 SD A l c o h o l 39C Fragrance
9.64 7.50 3.00 24.30 0.60
Phase C : D e i o n i z e d Water
I
9.76
Formul a CSS-06 :
I n g r ed ien t S_L
W.
t%
Phase A : SD A l c o h o l 39C Hydroxypropyl C e l l u l o s e
44.24 1.50
Phase B : Vel san D8P-16 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate P a r s o l 1789* Benzophenone-3 SD A l c o h o l 39C Fragrance
9.64 7.50 1.oo 3.00 24.30 0.60
Phase C : Dei o n i zed Water
9.76
Procedure: D i s p e r s e h y d r o x y p r o p y l c e l l u l o s e i n SD A l c o h o l . M i x u n t i l a c l e a r g e l d e v e l o p s . F o r Phase 8, add a l l i n g r e d i e n t s e x c e p t SD A l c o h o l and F r a g r a n c e i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g . Heat t o 45C w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l homogeneous. Cool t o 35C and add t h e a l c o h o l and f r a g r a n c e w i t h m i x i n g . Add Phase B t o Phase A and m i x w e l l . When Phase A/Phase B m i x t u r e i s homogeneous, add Phase C s l o w l y and mix c o m p l e t e l y . Properties: pH: 6 . 9 V i s c o s i t y : 73OOt-500 c p s Appearance: C l o u d y , l i g h t y e l l o w g e l - l i k e l o t i o n * P a r s o l 1789 i s n o t y e t FDA a p p r o v e d . SOURCE: C l a r i a n t C o r p . : R e f : CL19-39: CSS-05 and CSS-06
Sun Care Products
297
OLW Emoll ie n t S u n s c r e e n L o t i o n s
_uVz3-fSE_FS*) L g g r e d j e_n_ts; A O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA A r l a m o l E, PPG-15 S t e a r y l e t h e r Stearyl alcohol Dimethicone A r l a s o l v e 200 I s o c e t e t h - 2 0 B r i ] 72
1.o 3.1 3.9
77.1 0.2
0 Water
Carbomer 934 C Sodium h y d r o x i d e ,
w_to/, 5.0 7.0 2.5
10% a q u e o u s
D P r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e
0.2 q.s
UV-4 (SPF 15*) Ingredients: A O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA Benzophenone-3 A r l a m o l E , PPG-15 S t e a r y l e t h e r Stearyl alcohol D i m e t h i cone A r l a s o l v e 200 I s o c e t e t h - 2 0 B r i ] 72
Wt% 7.0 3.0 7.0 2.5 1.o 3.1 3.9
72.1 0.2
B Water Carbomer 934 C Sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n ,
10% a q u e o u s
D P r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e
0.2 9,s.
Preparation: D i s p e r s e Carbomer 9 3 4 i n w a t e r a n d h e a t ( 5 ) t o 6 0 C . H e a t ( A ) t o 65C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) u s i n g p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y a d d (C) a n d i n c r e a s e s p e e d o f a g i t a t i o n a s n e e d e d . Add ( D ) b e l o w 50C and r e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n . * E s t i m a t e d Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r
SOURCE: ICI
Surfactants:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
298
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
O/W M o i sturi z i nB Sunscreen C r e m
Uv-Lm-6.9 WtO%
-. I n..g r e d i e n t s : A O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA Mineral o i l Stearyl alcohol B r i j 721, S t e a r e t h - 2 1 B r i j 72, S t e a r e t h - 2 Dimethicone
5.0 5.0 0.5 2.0 2.0 0.5
B Water C a r b o m e r 940
04.6 0.2
C Sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n ,
10% aqueous
D P r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e UV-2
q.s.
(SPF 15*j Wt% 7.0 3.0
I n g r e d i ents-i A O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA Benzophenone-3 Mineral oil Stearyl alcohol B r i ] 721, S t e a r e t h - 2 1 B r i j 72, S t e a r e t h - 2 D i m e t h i cone
5.0 0.5 2.0 2.0 0.5
B Water
79.6 2.0
Carbomer 940 C Sodium h y d r o x i d e ,
0.2
10% a q u e o u s
D P r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e
0.2 q.s.
Preparation: D i s p e r s e Carbomer 940 i n w a t e r a n d h e a t ( 6 ) t o 6 0 C . H e a t ( A ) t o 6 5 C . Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) u s i n g p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y a d d ( C ) a n d i n c r e a s e s p e e d o f a g i t a t i o n a s n e e d e d . Add ( D ) b e l o w 50C a n d replace water l o s t by evaporation. * E s t i m a t e d Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r
SOURCE:
I C I Surfactants:
Formulas UV-1 & UV-2
Sun Care Products
299
O i 1 - i n - W a t e r S u n M i 1 k w i t h H i q h SPF ( p h y s i c a l and chemical f i l t e r s ) Inoredients: A r l a m o l HO Arlamol S7 P a r s o l MCX* P a r s o l 1789* L o r o l C18* A n t a r o n V-220* Vitamin E Acetate* O i s o d i um EDTA
15.0 4.0 6.0 3.0 2.0 3.0 1.o 0.1
A r l a t o n e 2121 A t l a s G-2330 Water Kelt r o l * Preservative T i o v e i l AQ* C i t r i c a c i d (20% s o l u t i o n )
5.5 4.0 43.8 0.1 q . s. 12.5 t o pH 6 . 5 - 7
Manufacture: 1 . D i s p e r s e T i o v e i l AQ i n w a t e r a n d a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 w i t h acid. 2 . Homogenise t h e w a t e r phase i n t e n s i v e l y f o r one m i n u t e . 3 . Add A r l a t o n e 2 1 2 1 a n d o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s t o t h e w a t e r p h a s e . 4 . H e a t B t o 85C. 5 . H e a t t h e o i l p h a s e A t o 8OC. 6 . Add A t o t h e h o t a q u e o u s p h a s e B w i t h s t i r r i n g . 7 . H o m o g e n i s e t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y a t 75C f o r o n e m i n u t e . 8 . A l l o w t o c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . 9 . C o n t r o l pH a n d a d j u s t i f n e c e s s a r y t o pH 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 . Comments : V i s c o s i t y : 6 , 2 4 0 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT,
s p i n d l e D,
rpm 6 )
* P a r s o l MCX ( O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e , I N C 1 ) - G i v a u d a n - R o u r e P a r s o l 1789 ( B u t y l M e t h o x y d i b e n z o y l m e t h a n e , INC1)-GivaudanRoure L o r o l C18 ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l , I N C 1 ) - H e n k e l A n t a r o n V-220 ( P V P / E i c o s e n e C o p o l y m e r , 1 N C I ) - R o c h e V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e ( T o c o p h e r y l A c e t a t e , INC1)-Roche K e l t r o l ( X a n t h a n Gum, I N C 1 ) - K e l c o T i o v e i l AQ ( T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( a n d ) W a t e r , I N C 1 ) - T i o x i d e
SOURCE:
ICI
Surfactants:
F o r m u l a t i o n F41-5-14
300
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Oil-in-Water-
P r o t e c t i o n Cream
Ingredients: P a r a f f i n o i l perliquidurn* A r l a m o l HD A r l a m o l S7 P a r s o l MCX* P a r s o l 1789* Vitamin E acetate* S t e n o l 1822A* Anti -oxidant
10.0 5.0 4.0 5.0 5.0 1.o 2.0 q.s. 5.5 4.0 q.s. 62.9
A r l a t o n e 2121 G1 y c e r o l Preservative Water Rhodopol SC*
0.1
P e r f ume
q. s .
Manufacture: 1 . M i x t h e A r l a t o n e 2121 i n t h e h e a t e d w a t e r phase a t 8OC u n d e r m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g u n t i l a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n i s f o r m e d . 2 . D i s p e r s e t h e h y d r o c o l l o i d i n t h e h e a t e d aqueous phase a t 75C w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . 3 . Add t h e h e a t e d o i l phase t o t h e aqueous phase under i n t e n s i v e stirring. 4 . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y a t 75C f o r o n e m i n u t e . 5 . Cool t o 35C w h i l s t s t i r r i n g m o d e r a t e l y . 6 . Add h e a t - s e n s i t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s w h i l s t s t i r r i n g m o d e r a t e l y . Comment : D u r i n g t h e c o o l i n g p r o c e s s ( s t e p 5 ) , when A r l a t o n e 2121 e m u l s i o n s t a r t s t o b u i l d up i n t h e l a m e l l a r c r y s t a l l i n e s t r u c t u r e , m o d e r a t e s t i r r i n g i s recommended. I n t e n s i v e s t i r r i n g can b r e a k down t h e l a m e l l a r s t r u c t u r e and can r e d u c e t h e f i n a l The v i s c o s i t y o f t h e f o r m u l a t i o n is in v e r s e l y p r o p v i scosi t y o r t i o n a l t o t h e m i x i n g e n e r g y t h a t has been p u t i n t o t h e e m u l s i o n d u r i n g manufacture.
.
Comments: V i s c o s i t y : 159.120 mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, s p i n d l e E , 1 . 5 rpm) Energy i n p u t i s r e l a t e d t o t h e f i n a l f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y . * P a r a f f i n o i l p e r l i q u i d u m ( M i n e r a l O i l , INC1)-Merck P a r s o l MCX ( O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e , 1NCI)-Givaudan-Roure P a r s o l 1 7 8 9 ( B u t y l Methoxybenzoylmenthane, 1NCI)-GivaudanRoure V i t a m i n E a c e t a t e ( T o c o p h e r y l A c e t a t e , INC1)-Roche S t e n o l 1822A ( B e h e n y l A l c o h o l , INC1)-Henkel Rhodopol SC ( X a n t h a n Gum, INC1)-Rhone-Poulenc SOURCE: I C I S u r f a c t a n t s :
F o r m u l a t i o n F41-5-2
Sun Care Products
Oi 1 - i n - W a t e r
Sun P r o t e c t i v e Cream w i t h " N a t u r a l "
Sun F i l t e r
Ingredients: A A r l a m o l HD A r l a m o l S7 P a r a f f i n o i l perliquidurn* L o r o l C18* Vitamin E acetate*
wto/, 5.0 4.0
10.0 2.0 1.o 12.5 5.5
B T i o v e i l AQ* A r l a t o n e 2121 G1 y c e r o l Keltr o l D i s o d i um EDTA Preservative Sorbic acid Demi n e r a l i s e d w a t e r
4.0
*
0.1
0.1 q.s 0.2 t o 100
Manufacture: 1 . D i s p e r s e T i o v e i l AQ i n w a t e r a n d a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 w i t h acid. 2 . Homogenise t h e w a t e r phase i n t e n s i v e l y f o r one m i n u t e . 3 . Add A r l a t o n e 2 1 2 1 a n d o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s t o t h e w a t e r p h a s e . 4 . H e a t B t o 85C. 5 . H e a t t h e o i l p h a s e A t o 80C. 6 . Add A t o t h e h o t a q u e o u s p h a s e B w i t h s t i r r i n g . 7 . H o m o g e n i s e t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y a t 75C f o r o n e m i n u t e . 8 . A l l o w t o c o o l t o room t e m p e r a t u r e w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . 9 . C o n t r o l pH a n d a d j u s t i f n e c e s s a r y t o pH 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 .
Comments : V i s c o s i t y ( a f t e r 1 week): 46,490 s p i n d l e E, 6 r p m ) Energy i n p u t i s r e l a t e d t o f i n a l
mPa s ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, formulation viscosity
* P a r a f f i n o i 1 p e r l i q u i d u m ( M i n e r a l O i l , INC1)-Merck Lorol C18 ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l , I N C 1 ) - H e n k e l V i t a m i n E a c e t a t e ( T o c o p h e r y l A c e t a t e , INC1)-Roche T i o v e i l AQ ( T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( a n d ) W a t e r , I N C 1 ) - T i o x i d e K e l t r o l ( X a n t h a n Gum, I N C 1 ) - K e l c o
SOURCE:
301
ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : F o r m u l a t i o n F 4 1 - 5 - 1 3
302
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
S.e!_f_la~_ns__c_cea~~-W~U~._~i~~er.~ COWWl SPF.IS-.~OAVA-.PF_S ..S.l.Su.! ..?rot-ectiol?. Fa_cto_r,~_Di.ffey M e t h o d ) ..INCI Nam_eiTrade._N.a.me:. ~. Wt% Phase A: Octyl Methoxycinnamate/Neo Heliopan AV 5.00 Eenzophenone-3/Eusolex 4360 2.00 Glyceryl Stearate (and) Steareth-25 (and) Ceteth-20 (and) Stearyl Alcohol/Tego-Care 150 8.00 Cetearyl Alcohol/Lanette 0 1.50 Stearoxy Dimethicone/Abil Wax 2434 1 .60 Cetearyl Octanoate/Luvi to1 EHO 5.00 Paraffin Liquid 3.00 Capryl ic/Capri c Tri glyceri de/Mi glyol 81 2 neutral oi 1 5.00 Di methi cone/Dow Corning 200 (350 cs) 0.50 Phase B: 1 , 2 - P r o p a n e d i o l / P r o p y l e n e Glycol 3.00 Methyl Paraben 0.15 Propyl Paraben 0.05 Dei oni zed Water 50.20 Phase C: Dihydroxyacetone/Rona 5.00 Deionized Water 10.00 Procedure:
Heat phase A to 75C, phase 8 to 80C. Add phase 6 slowly to phase A while stirrinq. Homogenize. Cool down while stirring and add phase C at 40c. Note:
Viscosity: 38,800 cp (Brookfield RVT, Sp. F
10 rpm) at 26C
Sunscreen Cream SPF 12 INCI Name/Trade Name: Phase A : Deionized Water Carbomer (2% aq. solution)/Carbopol 980 Propylene Glycol Methyl Paraben Propyl Paraben Triethanolamine (99%) Tetrasodi u m EDTA Phase B: Octyl Methoxycinnamate/Neo Heliopan AV Benzophenone-3/Eusolex 4360 Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 StearateIArlacel 165 Cyclomethicone/Dow Corning 344 Fluid Glyceryl Stearate Stearic Acid/Emersol 132, NF Isostearyl Isostearate/Prisorine ISIS 2039 Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Castorwax C12-15 Alcohols Benzoate/Finsolv TN
Wt% 44.23 15.00 5.00 0.20 0.10 0.45 0.02 5.00 3.00 1 .oo 5.00 4.00 2.50 10.00 2.00 2.50
Procedure:
Add Phase A ingredients to main vessel under impeller agitation. Heat Phase A to 75-8OC. Combine Phase B ingredients; heat and m i x to 85C. Slowly add Phase B to batch; mix for 15 minutes at 85C. Remove from heat; switch to paddle mixing and cool to RT. S O U R C E : Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a 0 6 - 1 3 / K & E U S 2 - 9 3 - 2
Sun Care Products
303
Sel f T a n n i n g Cream W/UV F i 1 t e r (O/W) 20.5/UVA PF 8.5 ( S u n P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r , D i f f e y M e t h o d l
___. SPF
I N C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A : O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Neo H e l i o p a n AV B u t y l M e t h o x y d i b e n z o y l m e t h a n e / P a r s o l 1789 C e t e a r e t h - 1 1 / M a r l i p a l 1618 Cetearyl Alcohol/Lanette 0 C e t e a r y l O c t a n o a t e / L u v i t o l EHO C12-15 A1 k y l B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v TN C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e / M i g l y o l 812 n e u t r a l o i 1 Phase B : 1,2-Propanediol/Propylene G l y c o l M e t h y l Paraben P r o p y l Paraben Dei o n i zed Water Phase C : Dihydroxyacetone/Rona Dei o n i zed Water
Wt%
5.00 1.50 3.00 7.00 5.00 2.50 2.50 4.00 0.15 0.05 54.30 5.00 10.00
Procedure: Heat phase phase A w h i l e and add phase Note: Viscosity:
A t o 75C,
stirring. C a t 40C.
p h a s e B t o 8OC. Add p h a s e B s l o w l y t o H o m o g e n i z e . C o o l down w h i l e s t i r r i n g
4 1 , 7 0 0 c p ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, S p . C ,
1 0 r p m ) a t 26C
_S ~ u_ n _s c_r_e_e_n_ _Cream _ _ _ _ _SPF 9 ___I N C I Name/Trade
Name:
W32h
Phase A : Dei o n i zed Water 29.53 Carbomer ( 2 % a q . s o l u t i o n ) / C a r b o p o l 9 8 0 15.00 Propylene Glycol 5.00 M e t h y l Paraben 0.20 P r o p y l Paraben 0.10 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 0.45 Phase B : D e i o n i z e d Water 10.00 T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 0.02 Phenylbenzimidazole S u l f o n i c A c i d (% as a c i d ) / E u s o l e x 232 4.00 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) 4.20 Phase C : G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e / A r l a c e l 165 1 .oo C y c l o m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i ny 3 4 4 F1 u i d 5.00 S t e a r i c A c i d / E m e r s o l 1 3 2 , NF 5.00 I s o s t e a r y l I s o s t e a r a t e / P r i s o r i n e I S I S 2039 10.00 C12-15 A l c o h o l s B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v TN 10.50 Procedure: Add Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s t o m a i n v e s s e l u n d e r i m p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . H e a t Phase A t o 75-8OC. Combine Phase B i n g r e d i e n t s ; m i x t o c l a r i t y w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 70C. S l o w l y a d d Phase B t o Phase A . M i x c o m b i n e d p h a s e s a t 75-8OC. Combine Phase C i n g r e d i e n t s ; h e a t a n d m i x t o 85C. S l o w l y a d d Phase C t o b a t c h ; m i x f o r 15 m i n u t e s a t 85C. Remove f r o m h e a t ; s w i t c h t o p a d d l e m i x i n g a n d c o o l t o RT. SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a 4 6 - 0 8 / K & E U S 2 - 4 7 - 5
304
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
S e l f T a n n i n q L o t i o n (O/W) I N C I Name/Trade Name:us/, Phase A : Dei o n i zed Water 40.15 X a n t h a n Gum/Kel t r o l 0.75 P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l 5.00 Methylparaben 0.20 0.10 Propyl paraben Phase B: S t e a r e t h - l O / B r i j 76 0.70 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ( a n d ) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e / A r l a c e l 1 6 5 1.20 PEG-40 S t e a r a t e / M y r j 52-S 0.40 C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) Ceteareth-20/Cosmowax J 1.oo C e t e a r y l A1 c o h o 1 1 .50 C y c l o m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d 5.00 0.50 D i m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d 100 c s O c t y l d o d e c y l N e o p e n t a n o a t e / E l e f a c 1-205 28.50 Phase C : D e i o n i z e d Water 10.00 Dihydroxyacetone/Rona 5.00 Procedure: Charge phase A w a t e r i n t o m a i n v e s s e l . Under l o w homoyenizat i o n , s p r i n k l e i n x a n t h a n gum, m i x t o u n i f o r m i t y . C h a r g e r e m a i n i rig Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s . Mai n t a i n i n g homogeni z a t i o n , h e a t p h a s e A t o 75-8OC. Combine p h a s e B i n g r e d i e n t s i n s i d e v e s s e l . M i x p h a s e B w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 85C. E m u l s i f y b y a d d i n g p h a s e B t o phase A; a d j u s t h o m o g e n i z e r speed as n e c e s s a r y t o e n s u r e a d e q u a t e b a t c h t u r n o v e r . H o l d b a t c h a t 85C f o r 1 0 m i n u t e s . S w i t c h f r o m h o m o y e n i z a t i o n t o i m p e l l e r m i x i n g a t 60C. Combine p h a s e C a t room t e m p e r a t u r e ; m i x t o u n i f o r m i t y . Add p h a s e C t o b a t c h a t 40C. M i x b a t c h u n t i l i t r e a c h e s room t e m p e r a t u r e . F o r m u l a EUS2-27-2
_ S e_ l f T a n n i n g L o t i o n (W/O) Wt% I N C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A : Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone Copolyol/Dow C o r n i n g 3225C 23.60 Phase B: 5.00 Dihydroxyacetone/Rona 1,2-Propanediol/Propylene G l y c o l 35.90 M e t h y l Paraben 0.15 P r o p y l Paraben 0.05 D e i o n i z e d Water 35.30 Procedure: C o m b i n e Phase B i n g r e d i e n t s a n d s t i r . Add Phase B t o Phase A and s t i r . Notes : Transparent, o i l - f r e e W/O T r a n s p a r e n c y can be a d j u s t e d by v a r y i n g r a t i o o f w a t e r / p r o p y l glycol V i s c o s i t y 1 2 , 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, Sp 4, 1 0 r p m ) a t 24C Formula O I - O l / L SOURCE: Rona/Em I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r n m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products
305
Self Tanninq Milk rO/Wl Raw Materials: wt% A Emulsifier E 2155 (Stearyl Alcohol (and) Steareth-7 (and) Steareth-10) 2.00 Teginacid H (Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteth-20) 2.00 Luvitol EHO (Cetearyl Octanoate) 10.00 Imwitor 900 (Glyceryl Stearate) 3.00 5.00 Cetiol (Oleyl Oleate) 1.00 Lunacera M (Microwax) Miglyol 812 neutral oil (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3.00 B Propanediol-1,2 (Art. No. 107478) (Propylene Glycol) 4.00 Preservatives q.s. Water, demineralized ad 100.00 C Dihydroxyacetone (Art. No. 110150) 5.00 Water, demineralized 10.00 Procedure: Heat phase A to 75C, phase B to 80C. Add phase B slowly to phase A while stirring. Homogenize. Cool down while stirring and add phase C at 40C. Note : pH24C=3.6 Viscosity 15,000 mPas (Brookfield RVT, Sp. C, 10 rpm) at 24C Samples contain as preservatives: 0 . 0 5 % Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Merck Art. No. 107427) 0.15% Methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Merck Art. No. 106757) SOURCE: Rona-Merck: Formulation 03-07/K Leave-On Hair Treatment S w a y with Sunscreen A liaht hair and scalD treatment containina LiDamide MEAA and Lipoquat R for conditioning and shine, wifh Unitrienol T-27 for oil control. The Unipabol U-17 helps protect the hair from UV induced color damage. Sequence: Raw Material/INCI Name: Wt% 1 Liponic EG-l/Glycereth-26 3.00 1 Lipamide MEAA/Acetamide MEA 3.50 1 Lipoquat R/Ricinoleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate 0.50 2 Deionized Water 3.00 2 Unipabol U-17/PEG-25 PABA 7.50 3 SD Alcohol 40-B (190 proof) 73.50 4 Unitrienol T-27/Farnesyl Acetate (and) 2.00 Farnesol (and) Panthenyl Triacetate 4 Lipovol J/Jojoba (Buxus Chinensis) Oil 1.00 4 Liponate NPGC-2/Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/ Dicaprate 6.00 Procedure: 1. Premix Sequence #1 ingredients at ambient temperature on overhead mixer at low/medium speed. 2. Premix Sequence #2 and add to Sequence #1 at low/medium speed. 3. Add combined Sequence #1 and Sequence #2 to Sequence # 3 on overhead mixer at medium/low speed. 4. Add premixed Sequence #4 to batch at medium speed until solution is clear and homogeneous. SOURCE: Lip0 Chemicals Inc.: Formulation No. 1005
306
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunblock Lotion In this formula, Veegum is used with Rhodigel Xanthan Gum and a Xanthan Gum-based dispersible emulsifier to stabilize the emulsion and adjust emulsion viscosity. This cold process lotion has a light feel with quick, greaseless rub in. The sunscreen should offer considerable protection against sunlightinduced skin problems. The Ritachol and Finsolv are included for emollience and rapid skin absorption on rub-in. Inqredients: Wt%* A: Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 0.60 Rhodigel, Xanthan Gum 0.15 Deionized Water 65.45 Nonfat Dry Milk (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides Phosphate 0.80 Propylene Glycol 3.00 B: C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (Finsolv TN) 8.00 Benzophenone-3 (Escalol 5 6 7 ) 5.00 Octyl Methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX) 7.50 Mineral Oil (and) Lanolin Alcohol (Ritachol) 4.00 Polysorbate 80 0.50 C: Zinc Oxide 5.00 D: Preservative q.s. Procedure: Add the Veegum/Rhodigel dry blend to the water slowly, agitating at maximum available shear until smooth. Add the remaining Part A ingredients in the order shown, mixing after each until smooth and uniform. Mix the Part B ingredients until the Benzophenone-3 dissolves. Add Part B to Part A and mix until smooth and uniform. *As received basis Formulation No. 367 Ti02 Lotion Insredients: Wt%” A: Propylene Glycol Isoceteth-3 Acetate (Hetester PHA) 10.00 Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate (Elefac 1 - 2 5 0 ) 10.00 Titanium Dioxide- (and) Bismuth Oxychloride (Titanium Dioxide 110) 10.00 B: Deionized Water 68.90 Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 0.70 Rhodigel, Xanthan Gum 0.30 C: Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone 0.10 Procedure: Weigh the water into a suitable vessel and mix with a propeller mixer at 1800 rpm. Dry blend the Veegum and Rhodigel and add them to the water. Mix for 6 0 minutes. In a separate vessel, mix the Part A ingredients until the Titanium Dioxide is uniformly dispersed. Add Part A to Part B and mix until uniform. Add Part C, mix until uniform and package. *As received basis Formulation from Bernel Chemical Co., Inc. SOURCE: R.T. Vanderbilt Co., Inc.: Suggested Formulations
Sun Care Products
307
SPF 1 2 Sunscreen Liposome L o t i o n
T h i s i s an e l e g a n t f e e l i n g s u n s c r e e n i n a c o l d - p r o c e s s l o t i o n c o n t a i n i n g liposomes f o r longer l a s t i n g p r o t e c t i o n . Wt%* I n x g d i ent : A : D e i o n i z e d Water 58.53 1 .40 Veegum Magnesium Aluminum S i i c a t e 0.18 R h o d i g e l Xanthan Gum C e l l u l o s e Gum (CMC 7MF) 0.56 B : G l y c e r i n , 99% 3.00 Butylene Glycol (and) Glycer n (and) Chlorophenesin (and) Methylparaben ( K i l l i t o l ) 3.00 Water ( a n d ) O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e ( a n d ) Phenyl T r i m e t h i cone ( a n d ) C y c l o m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) D i m e t h i c o n a l (and) Phosphoglycerides (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben ( a n d ) B u t y l p a r a b e n ( S a n s u f t OMC) 23.33 Water ( a n d ) O c t y l Methoxycinnamate ( a n d ) Soy Phosp h o g l y c e r i d e s ( a n d ) Phenoxyethanol ( a n d ) T o c o p h e r y l A c e t a t e (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Butylparaben (Sunscreen L i posomes) 10.00 Procedure: Weigh t h e w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and m i x w i t h a p r o p e l l e r s t i r r e r a t 1800 rpm. Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum, R h o d i g e l and CMC and add them t o t h e w a t e r . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 60 m i n u t e s a t 1 8 0 0 rpm. Reduce t h e m i x e r speed t o p r o d u c e a s l i g h t v o r t e x and add t h e P a r t 6 i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown, m i x i n g each f o r 5 m i n u t e s . Package. *As r e c e i v e d b a s i s
SOURCE:
R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., Laboratories
I n c : Formulation from C o l l a b o r a t i v e
P&E&A _Free M_! l.k--&
Honey S.ynscreen
s_t_l c_k
The f o l l o w i n g f o r m u l a t i o n p r o d u c e s a w a t e r p r o o f s u n s c r e e n s t i c k w h i c h has a SPF f a c t o r o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 1 0 - 2 0 . Ingredients wts/oy Monalac ML ( R e f i n e d M i l k L i p i d ) 70 0 B l e a c h e d Beeswax 20.0 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 7 0 Benzophenone-3 3 0 Fragrance qs Procedure: B l e n d t h e Monalac ML and Beeswax t o g e t h e r a t 65-75C. A v o i d a i r e n t r a i n m e n t . When u n i f o r m , add o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e and c o n t i n u e b l e n d i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Reduce h e a t , add f r a g r a n c e and p o u r a t 50-65C i n t o p a c k a g e . A r i c h , smooth, p r o t e c t i v e and n o n - g r e a s y s k i n c o v e r i n g w i l l b e p r o v i d e d .
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,
Inc.:
F o r m u l a t i o n F-735
308
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations Sun Care Emulsion SPF (Calculated) aDprox. 15
Component: I Eumulgin VL 75/Lauryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Glycerin Myritol 331/Cocoglycerides Baysilon M 350/Dimethicone Cetiol 868/0ctyl Stearate Octyl Methoxycinnamate Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate Benzophenone-3 Copherol 1250/Tocopherol Carbopol ETD 2001/Carbomer I1
Glycerine 86% Water NaOH 10%/Sodium Hydroxide Preservative/perfume
Wt% 4.5 6.0 0.5 2.5 4.0 4.0 1.0 0.5 0.3
3.0 71.9 1.8 q.s.
pH Value: 6.9 Viscosity Brookfield mPas: 14,000 Preparation in the Laboratory: Mix phase I at room temperature. Add phase I1 while stirring. After that, homogenize. Finally add the neutralisation agent as well as the preservative. Formulation No. 97/119/3 Sunscreen Products Inqredients: 94/056/167 94/056/1= Emulgade SE/Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate 8.0 8.0 Lanette O/Cetearyl Alcohol 1.5 1.5 Cetiol LC/Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Cetiol SN/Cetearyl Isononanoate Cetiol SB 45/Butyrospermum Parkii 2.0 2.0 Copherol 1250/Tocopheryl Acetate 1.0 1.0 8.5 8.5 Neo-Heliopan E 1000 2.5 2.5 Neo-Heliopan BB 3.0 3.0 Glycerol (86%) 0.6 0.6 Tylose YP 100,000 Hydagen CMF/Chitosan 10.0 --Water 56.9 66.9
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested Formulations
Sun Care Products
Sun
309
Care Lotion with Hydaqen CMF
Component: Wt$ Emulgade SE 8.0 Lanette O/Cetearyl Alcohol 1.5 Cetiol LC/Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 3.0 Cetiol SN/Cetearyl Isononanoate 3.0 Cetiol SB 45/Shea Butter 2.0 Copherol 1250/Tocopherol 1.0 Neo Heliopan E 1000/Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate 8.0 Neo Heliopan BB/Benzophenone-3 2.5 I1 Glycerin 86% 3.0 Hydagen CMF/Chitosan Glycolate 10.0 Water, de-ionized 28.0 I11 Tylose H 100,000 YP (Hoechst) Z%ig/Hydroxyethylcellulose 30.0 q.s. IV Preservative Viscosity (mPas), Brook. RVF, 23C, spindle 5, 10 rpm: 23,600 Preparations in the Laboratory: Heat phase I to 80-85C. Heat phase I1 to 80-85C and add to the oil phase while stirring. Emulsify for 5 minutes at this temperature. Avoid incorporation of air. Add the 2 % Tylose swelling. Cool down to 40C and add finally phase IV. Stir while cooling to 30C. Recipe Number: DE/94/056/167 Phase: I
Sun
Protection Emulsion for SDray-Application LSF/SPF (ColiDa) 9
Comuonent: WtO I Emulgade SE/Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate 4.7 Eumulgin BZ/Ceteareth-20 1.3 Cetiol 868/0ctyl Stearate 6.0 Cetiol SN/Cetearyl Isononanoate 6.0 Isoamyl Methoxycinnamate 4.0 Benzophenone-3 1.0 Copherol F 1300/Tocopherol 1.0 I1 Water 71.0 Glycerin 86% 5.0 I11 Preservative q.s. Viscosity mPas:
SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested Formulations
370
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sun Protection Cream (W/O) SPF 22 (Sun Protection Factor, ColiDa Method with 5 Volunteers1 Raw Materials: A: Eusolex OCR (Art. N o . 1.05377) (Octocrylene) Eusolex 9020 (Art. No. 1.05844) (Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane) Elfacos E 200 (Methoxy PEG-22/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer) Elfacos ST 9 (PEG-45/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer) Elfacos C 2 6 (Hydroxyoctacosanyl Hydroxystearate) Paraffin Oil Liquid (Art. No. 1.07162) (Mineral Oil) Isopropyl Stearate DL-c - Tocopherol acetate (Art. No. 5.00952) (Tocopheryl Acetate)
Wt%
3.00 1.50 1.00 3.00 5.00 8.00
9.00 0.50
8 : Eusoflex 232 (Art. No. 1.05372) (Phenylbezimidazole
Sulfonic Acid) 2.00 Tris(hydroxymethy1)-aminomethane (Art. No. 1.08386) (Tromethamine) 0.89 Tritiplex I11 (Art. No. 1.08421) (Disodium EDTA) 0.10 Allantoin (Art. No. 1.01015) 0.10 Glycerine (Art. No. 1.04093) 3.00 q.s Preservatives Water, demineralized ad 100.00 Procedure: To neutralize Eusolex 232 dissolve Tris(hydroxymethy1)-aminomethane in the water of phase B and add Eusolex 232 while stirring. When uniform add the remaining ingredients of phase B and heat to 80C. Heat phase A to 75C. Add phase B slowly to phase A while stirring. Homogenize and cool down while stirring. Note : Viscosity 41,000 mPas (Brookfield RVT, Sp. C, 5 rpm) at 24C Samples contain as preservatives: 0.050% Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Merck Art. No. 107427) 0.150% Methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Merck Art. No. 106757) SOURCE: Rona-Merck: Formulation 04-Q2/K
Sun Care Products
31 1
Sun Protection Emulsion for Spray Application
SPF (COLIPA) 9 Component: I. Emulgade SE/Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate Eumulgin B2/Ceteareth-20 Cetiol 868/0ctyl Stearate Cetiol SN/Cetearyl Isononanoate Neo-Heliopan E 1000/Isoamyl Methoxycinnamate Neo-Heliopan BB/Benzophenone-3 Copherol F 1300/Tocopherol
( and 1
II.Water, demineralized Glycerol 86%
Wt% 4.7 1.3 6.0 6.0 4.0 1.0 1.0 71.0 5.0
1II.Preservative q. s Viscosity, mPas: < l o 0 Brookfield, 23C Preparation in the Laboratory: 1. Melt phase I (80-85C) and stir until homogeneous. 2. Heat phase I1 at 80-85C and stir slowly into phase I. Mix temperature at 80-85C. 3. Allow the emulsion to cool with stirring in such a way that it remains in continual motion. Avoid incorporation of air. Add phase I11 at 35C. Add preservative if necessary. Stop stirring at 30C. Formulation No.: 93/199/65 After Sun with Panthenol for Spray Amlication
Wt% Component: I. Emulgade SE/Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) 4.5 Cetyl Palmitate 1.0 Eumulgin B 2/Ceteareth-20 5.0 Cetiol LC/Coco-Caprylate/Caprate 5.0 Cetiol OE/Dicaprylyl Ether 11. Water, demin.
83.5
1.0 III.Pantheno1 Preservative q.s Viscosity, 23C, mPas, Brookfield: t l O O Preparation in the Laboratory: 1. Heat phase I to 85C and stir until homogeneous. 2. Heat phase I1 to 85C and stir slowly into phase I. 3. Allow the emulsion to cool with stirring in such a way that it remains in continual motion. Avoid incorporation of air. Add phase I11 at 35C. Add preservative if necessary. Stop stirring at 30C. Formulation No.: 94/192/8 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested Formulations
312
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sun Protection Gel (aqueous) SPF 10 (Sun Protection Factor, FDA-Method with 5 Volunteers) Raw Materials: wt% A Eusolex 232 (Art. No. 105372) (Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid) 4.00 Tris-(hydroxymethy1)-aminomethane (Art. No. 108386) (Tromethamine) 1.77 0.20 Allantoin (Art. No. 101015) Sorbitol F liquid (Art. No. 102993) 5.00 Preservatives q.s. Water, demineralized ad 100.00 B Perfume 72979 Arlatone 980 (PEG-35-Hydrogenated Castor Oil)
0.30 1.00
C Carbomer 940 Water, demineralized
1.50 36.10
D Tris(hydroxymethy1)-aminomethane (Art. No. 108386) Tromethamine Water, demineralized
2.40 10.00
Procedure: To neutralize Eusolex 232 dissolve Tris(hydroxymethy1)aminomethane in the water of phase A and add Eusolex 232 while stirring. When uniform add the remaining ingredients of Phase A. Heat to 70C until homogeneous and cool while stirring. Blend ingredients of phase B. Disperse Carbomer 940 in the water of phase C and homogenize. Dissolve the Tris(hydroxymethy1)aminomethane in the water of phase D. Combine phases C and D and homogenize. Incorporate phases A and B. Homogenize again. Note : Transparent gel Viscosity 35,000 mPas (Brookfield RVT, Sp. C, 5 rpm) at 25C pH22C=6.7 Samples contain as preservatives: 0.20% Methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Merck-Art.-No. 6757) SOURCE: Rona-Merck: Formulation 32-02/E
Sun Care Products
313
Sun Protection Lotion (W/O) SPF 20 [Sun Protection Factor, ColiDa Method with 5 Volunteers) Raw Materials: A Eusolex T 2000 (Art.-No. 105373) (Micron. Titandioxid) Eusolex 6300 (Art.-No. 1.05385) (4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor) Abil WE 09 (Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (and) Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol (and) Hexyl Laurate) Jojoba Oil (Jojoba (Buxus Chinensis) Oil) Cetiol V (Decyl Oleate) Prisorine 2021 (Isopropyl Isostearate) Castor Oil (Ricinus Communis) Lunacera M (Microwax) Miglyol 812 Neutral Oil (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) DL-d.-Tocopherolacetate(Art.-No. 5.00952) (Tocopheryl Acetate) Vitamin-A-palmitate (Retinyl Palmitate)
Wt$ 3.00
2.00 5.00 6.00 6.00 4.50 1.00 1.80 4.50 1.00 0.50
B Eusolex 232 (Art.-No. 105372) (Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid) 2.00 Tris(hydroxymethy1)-aminomethane (Art.-No. 1.08386) 0.90 (Tromethamine) 2.00 Glycerol (about 87%) (Art. No. 1.04091) 0.40 Sodium Chloride (Art. No. 1.06400) 0.20 Allantoin (Art.-No. 1.01015) q.s. Preservatives ad 100.00 Water, demineralized Procedure: To neutralize Eusolex 232 dissolve Tris(hydroxymethy1)-aminomethane in the water of phase B and add Eusolex 232 while stirring. When uniform add the remaining ingredients of phase B and heat to 80C. Heat phase A to 75C. Add phase B slowly to phase A while stirring. Homogenize and cool down while stirring. Notes : Viscosity 24,600 mPas (Brookfield RVT, S p . C) at 24C Samples contain as preservatives: 0.05% Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Art. No. 1.07427) 0.15% Methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Art. No. 1.06757) SOURCE: Rona-Merck: Formulation 39-44/E
374
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sun Protection Lotion (O/W) SPF 23 ( S u n Protection Factor, Colipa Method with 5 Volunteers)
Raw Materials: WtSi A Eusolex T-2000 (Art. No. 1.05373) (Micron. Titanium Dioxide) 10.00 Emulsifier E-2155 (Stearyl Alcohol (and) . . Steareth-7 (and) Steareth-10) 3.00 Teginacid H (Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteth-20) 3.00 Luvitol EHO (Cetearyl Octanoate) 10.50 Imwitor 900 (Glyceryl Stearate) 3.00 Cetiol (Oleyl Oleate) 4.00 Lunacera M (Microwax) 1.00 Miglyol 812 neutral oil (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 4.00 B Propanediol-1,2 (Art.-No. 1.07478) (Propylene Glycol) 4.00 Allantoin (Art.-No. 1.01015) 0.20 q.s. Preservatives Water, demineralized 100.00 Procedure: Heat phase A to 75C and phase B to 80C. Add phase B slowly to phase A while stirring, homogenize and cool down while stirring. Note: Viscosity 24,600 mPas (Brookfield RVT Sp. C, 10 rpm) at 24C Samples contain as preservatives 0.05% Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Art. No. 1.07427) 0.15% Methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Art. No. 1.06757) Formulation 03-36/K Self Tannins Milk CW/Ol Raw Materials: A Dow Corning 3225 C B Dihydroxyacetone (Art.-No. 10150) Propanediol-1,2 (Art.-No. 7478) Preservatives Water, demineralized
Wt%
23.600 5.000 35.900 q.s.
ad 100.000
Procedure: Dissolve phase B and add it to phase A. Note: Transparent, oil-free W/O Adjusting of transparency trough variation of ratio water/ propanediol-1,2. Viscosity 12,000 mPas (Brookfield RVT, Sp.4, 10 rpm) at 24C Samples contain as preservatives: 0.05% Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Merck-Art.-No. 7427) 0.15% Methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (Merck-Art.-No. 6757) Formulation Ol-Ol/L
SOURCE: Rona-Merck: Suggested Formulations
Sun Care Products
W t-%n
.__ 1naredi-aLs.; A O c t y l methoxycinnamate Benzophenone-3 Arlamol E Stearyl alcohol O i m e t h i c o n e , 350 c p s . B r i j 721 B r i j 72
5.0 0.5 5.0 0.5 0.5 2.0 2.0 74.1 0.2
B Water Carbomer 940
C Water Sodi um h y d r o x i d e ,
10.0 0.2
10% aqueous
U V - 7 .(S-PF
15*] W_t %
I n g r e d Lent _ s l
7.0 3.0 5.0 0.5 0.5 2.0 2.0
O c t y l m e t h o x y c i nnamate Benzophenone-3 Arlamol E Stearyl alcohol O i m e t h i c o n e , 350 c p s . B r i ] 721 B r i ] 72
69.6 0.2
B Water Carbomer 940
C Water Sod1 um h y d r o x i d e ,
315
10% aqueous
10.0 0.2
Preparation: D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n w a t e r . Heat ( A ) t o 65C . Heat (€3) t o 60C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 50C and add make-up w a t e r , i f n e c e s s a r y . Pour above s e t p o i n t . * E s t i m a t e d Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r SOURCE:
I C I Surfactants:
F o r m u l a s UV-6 & UV-7
376
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Emulsion, T m e O/W Raw Materials: Wt% a) Arlamol HD 15.00 Arlamol S 7 4.00 Parsol MCX 6.00 Parsol 1789 1.50 Stearyl alcohol 2.00 Antaron V-220 3.00 Cutavit Richter 1.00 Phenonip 0.30 b) Water, distilled 39.80 Phenonip 0.30 Keltrol 0.10 G-2330 4.00 Tioveil AQ 12.50 Arlatone 2121 5.50 Citric acid 5.50 c) Protectan 5.00 Manufacture: a) Melt and bring to about 85C. b) Heat to about 85C and stir into a). Continue stirring until the emulsion has cooled to about 30C. c) Stir in. Perfume, homogenize. Notice: b) adjust pH to 6.5-7.0 using citric acid! SOURCE: Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH: Formulas Clear Sunscreen Gel This formula is a clear, oil-free gel. Excellent non-greasy afterfeel. Wt% Inqredients: Phase A: SD Alcohol 40-2 44.07 Hydroxypropyl Cellulose 1.67 Phase B: Velsan D8P-3 9.64 Octyl Methoxycinnamate 7.50 Parsol 1789" 1.00 Benzophenone-3 2.00 SD Alcohol 40-2 24.30 Fragrance 0.60 Phase C: Deionized Water 9.76 Procedure: Disperse the hydroxypropyl cellulose in Phase A's portion of the SD Alcohol. Mix until a clear gel develops. In Phase B add ingredients in order while mixing. Continue mixing until all of the benzophenone-3 and Parsol 1789 is dissolved. Add Phase B to Phase A and continue to mix until a smooth gel develops. Slowly add water with mixing until gel is clear and homogeneous. Properties: pH: 6.4 Viscosity: 12,800 cps Appearance: Clear, Yellow Gel *Parsol 1789 is not yet FDA approved. SOURCE: Clariant Corp.: Formulation CSS-04
Sun Care Products
317
S u n s c r e e n Emu1 s i o n w i t h T i t a n i urn D i o x i d e T h i s base i s an i d e a l s t a r t i n g p o i n t f o r s u n s c r e e n l o t i o n s any t y p e o f pigmented product It i s a very stable formulation for
L!g.r.ed.j.e_nt
A:
.:D e i o n i z e d Water Veegum, Magnesium A l u m i n u m S i l i c a t e C e l l u l o s e Gum Allantoin Methylparaben T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (and) Alumina (and) G l y c e r i n (and) S i l i c a ( U V - T i t a n M212)
B: L e c i t h i n Lanolin Alcohol Glyceryl Stearate Isopropyl Palmitate Stearic Acid Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides I s o e i c o s a n e ( P e r m e t h y l 102A) P o l y i s o b u t e n e ( P e r m e t h y l 104A) Isostearic Acid Propylparaben
Wt.V
61 . 9 8 0.50 0.15 0.05 0.20 8.00
1 .oo 1.50 0.80 4.00 0.50 4.00 7.50 2.50 2.40 0.10
Urea
0.20
0 : T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99%
1 .62 3.00
C:
Imidazolidinyl
Polyglycerylmethacrylate
Procedure: Weigh t h e P a r t A w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l a n d m i x w i t h a h o m o g e n i z e r o p e r a t i n g a t 5 0 0 0 rpm. D r y b l e n d t h e Veegum a n d c e l l u l o s e gum, a d d t h e m i x t u r e t o t h e w a t e r a n d c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 3 0 m i n u t e s a t 5 0 0 0 rpm, w h i l e h e a t i n g t h e b a t c h t o 70-72C. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g e a c h u n t i l u n i f o r m l y dispersed. M i x t h e P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n another vessel a n d h e a t t o 7 5 C . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A a n d m i x f o r 10 m i n u t e s a t 5 0 0 0 r p m . Move t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a n d a d j u s t t h e speed t o c r e a t e a s m a l l v o r t e x . B e g i n c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g . A t 60C, a d d P a r t C . A t 40C, a d d t h e P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Package a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e .
SOURCE:
R.T. V a n d e r b i l t Co., Inc.
I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n from P r e s p e r s e ,
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
378
S u n s c r e e n F o r m u l___ ation _. Ingr
edients; Veegum P l u s O e i o n i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l ami n e P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF Stearic Acid PPG-2 M y r i s t y l E t h e r P r o p i o n a t e Cetyl Alcohol L a n o l i n A1 coho1 Padimate 0 Phenyl benzimidazole Sul f o n i c A c i d Preservative B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y @ 1 2 rpm, A f t e r A g i n g 1 D a y : 19500 A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week: 1 9 5 0 0 A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks: 21500
Y i e l d Value,
Dynes/Sq.
Cm.:
cps:
1020
F o r m u l a pH: A f t e r A g i n g 1 Day: 6 . 6 A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week: 6 . 5 A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks: 6 . 5 S t a b i l i t y Observations: A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week @ Room T e m p . : O K A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks @ Room T e m p . : O K A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week @ 6C: O K A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks @ 6C: O K A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week @ 38C: O K A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks @ 38C: OK A f t e r A g i n g 1 Week I3 50C: O K A f t e r A g i n g 4 Weeks @ 50C: OK SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . ,
I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
wt.% 2.00 61.50 0.80 5.00 3.20 2.40 11.20 1 .60 4.00 5.00 2.30 1 .oo
Sun Care Products
319
Sunscreen Formulation Inqredients: MAS Type 1A
Deionized Water Triethanolamine Propylene Glycol Emulsifying Agent NF Stearic Acid PPG-2 Myristyl Ether Propionate Cetyl Alcohol Lanolin Alcohol Padimate 0 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid Preservative Brookfield Viscosity @ 12 rpm, cps: After Aging 1 Day: 11500 After Aging 1 Weeks: 10500 After Aging 4 Weeks: 13500 Yield Value, Dynes/Sq. Cm.: 600 Formula pH: After Aging 1 Day: 6.6 After Aging 1 Week: 6.6 After Aging 4 Weeks: 6.6 Stability Observations: After Aging 1 Week @ Room Temp.: OK After Aging 4 Weeks @ Room Temp.: OK After Aging 1 Week @ 6C: OK After Aging 4 Weeks @ 6C: OX After Aging 1 Week @ 38C: OK After Aging 4 Weeks @ 38C: Trace Bleed After Aging 1 Week @ 50C: 5 m Bleed After Aging 4 Weeks @ 50C: Total Separation
SOURCE: R.T. Vanderbilt Co., Inc.: Formulation
Wt$
2.00 61.50 0.80 5.00 3.20 2.40
11.20 1.60 4.00 5.00 2.30 1.00
320
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen G e l
F o r m u l a t i n g D e s i g n and A d v a n t a g e s : Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax) p r o d u c e s a n o n - g r a n u l a r , l o w p e n e t r a t i o n and h i g h s t a b i l i t y g e l . T h i s f o r m u l a u t i l i z e s an a r r a y o f o i l s and a c t i v e s p r o d u c i n g a p r o d u c t w i t h a n o n - g r e a s y s k i n f e e l , p e n e t r a t e s t h e s k i n q u i c k l y and has an SPF o f 4 t o 6 . __. Raw M
aterials: O i l Phase: Sweet Almond O i 1 Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax) Isopropyl Palmitate Jojoba O i l Sesame O i l Avocado O i l Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol Escalol 507 Ozokerite 160/164 Carnauba # I Y e l l o w V i t a m i n A Palini t a t e Vitamin E Concentrate
Wt% 29.0 15.3 15.0 13.0 9.0 9.0 4.0 4.0
1 .o
0.5 0.1 0.1
Procedure: Weigh and add each component o f t h e o i l phase t o a v e s s e l . H e a t , n o t e x c e e d i n g 75C, and m i x u n t i l homogeneous. Reduce t e m p e r a t u r e t o 60C and p o u r i n t o c o n t a i n e r . A d a p t a t i o n o f Formula and i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : By r e p l a c i n g t h e j o j o b a , sesame and avocado o i l s w i t h l i g h t m i n e r a l o i l ( 2 8 . 8 % ) and i n c r e a s i n g t h e Cera B e l l i n a c o n c e n t r a t i o n ( 1 7 . 5 % ) , one can p r o d u c e t h e same p r o d u c t as d e s c r i b e d above. The f o r m u l a t o r has t h e a b i l i t y t o s u b s t i t u t e t h e i r p r e f e r r e d o i l s w i t h o n l y s l i g h t c o n c e n t r a t i o n changes o f Cera B e l l i n a t o p r o d u c e p r o d u c t s o f t h e same c o n s i s t e n c y , Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) can be added t o n a t u r a l l y enhance t h e SPF.
SOURCE:
K o s t e r Keunen I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Sun Care Products
~ . ~ C ~ - - ~ a ~ ~ r ~ ~ ~ . ~ . a Phase A : Phenyl benzimi d a z o l e S u l f o n i c A c i d (% as a c i d ) / E u s o l e x 232 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) A 1 l a n t o i n/Rona Glycerine M e t h y l Paraben D e i o n i z e d Water Phase 8: I m i d a z o l id i n y l U r e a / G e r m a l l D e i o n i z e d Water Phase C : Carbomer/Carbopol Dei o n i z e d Water
~
115
~
321
w t Yo 4.00 2.18 0.10 5.00 0.20 14.77 0.15 1.oo
940
1.50 58.10
Phase 0 : T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) Dei o n i z e d Water
3.00 10.00
Procedure: T o n e u t r a l i z e E u s o l e x 232 d i s s o l v e t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e i n t h e w a t e r o f p h a s e A a n d a d d E u s o l e x 232 w h i l e s t i r r i n g . When u n i f o r m , add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase A . H e a t t o 7 0 C u n t i l homogeneous t h e n c o o l t o 45C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . D i s s o l v e G e r m a l l 1 1 5 i n t h e w a t e r o f p h a s e B , a d d t o b a t c h . Combine p h a s e C a n d h o m o g e n i z e . Combine p h a s e D . Add p h a s e D t o p h a s e C w i t h s i d e sweep a g i t a t i o n u n t i l homogeneous. Add p h a s e A a n d homogeni ze. Notes : S t a b i l i t y RT-No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 2 y e a r s . SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,
Inc.:
F o r m u l a EUS1-5-1
322
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen Gel SPF lo (Aqueous-Alcohol i c )
y a
I N C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A : P h e n y l b e n z i m i d a z o l e S u l f o n i c A c i d ( % as a c i d ) / E u s o l e x 232 T r i e t h a n o l ami ne (99%) A1 1a n t o i n/Rona G1 y c e r i ne M e t h y l Paraben Dei o n i zed Water
4.00 2.18 0.10 5.00 0.20 1 .oo
Phase 8 : I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germall Deionized water
0.15 1 .oo
Phase C : Carbomer/Carbopol Dei o n i zed Water
115
940
Phase D : T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) D e i o n i z e d Water Phase E : E t h a n o l (90%)
1 .50 50.87
3.00 5.00 20.00
Procedure: To n e u t r a l i z e E u s o l e x 232 d i s s o l v e t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e i n t h e w a t e r o f phase A and add E u s o l e x 232 w h i l e s t i r r i n g . When u n i f o r m add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase A . Heat t o 70C u n t i l homogeneous, t h e n c o o l t o 45C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . D i s s o l v e G e r m a l l 1 1 5 i n t h e w a t e r o f phase B, add t o b a t c h . Combine Phase C and homogenize. Combine phase D . Add phase E s t e p by s t e p w h i l e s t i r r i n g , p r o c e e d i n g w i t h each a d d i t i o n a f t e r i t i s c l e a r and u n i f o r m . Add phase A and homogenize.
SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Formula EUS1-5-2
Sun Care Products
323
Sunscreec- L o t i o n Formul a t 1 n g D e s i g n and Advantages. T h i s f o r m u l a d e m o n s t r a t e s t h e r h e o l o g i c a l and s t a b i l i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a . I n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h i s f o r m u l a i s t h e s u n s c r e e n E s c a l o l ( O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA) g i v i n g t h i s f o r m u l a a n a p p r o x i m a t e SPF v a l u e o f 4 t o 6 . The p r o d u c t h a s h i g h g l o s s and e x c e l l e n t s k i n f e e l The r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s o f C e r a B e l l i n a a l l o w f o r t h i s p r o d u c t t o be packaged i n convenient tubes or s q u e e z e b o t t l e s Raw M a t e r i a! s : O i l Phase: E s c a l o l 507 A m e r c h o l L 101 C e r a B e l l i n a ( P g - 3 Beeswax) G1 y c e r o l M o n o s t e a r a t e L i g h t M i n e r a l 01 1 Isostearic Acid Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i 1 1 ed ) 1,3-Eutylene Glycol G1 y c e r i n e Triethanolamine Germaben I 1 Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e
Wt%
5.63 4.70 3.80 2.77 2.83 1 .oo 71 . 6 6 2.90 2.83 0.80 0.80 0.28
Procedure: H e a t t h e w a t e r p h a s e t o 75C u n d e r a g i t a t i o n e n s u r i n g t h a t t h e e n t i r e phase i s s o l u b i l i z e d . M e l t and m i x t h e o i l phase a t 75C. S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase u n d e r v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n A l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C a n d p o u r i n t o j a r s . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a a n d i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : I t i s easy t o a l t e r t h e sunscreen t o s u i t your p r e f e r e n c e , w i t h o u t c h a n g i n g t h e c o n s s t e n c y The emu1 s i o n v i s c o s i t y c a n e a s i l y b e a l t e r e d b y c h a n g i n g t h e o i l a n d / o r wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n O r a n g e Wax ( K o s t e r K e u n e n ) c a n b e a d d e d t o n a t u r a l l y e n h a n c e t h e SPF
SOURCE:
K o s t e r Keunen I n c . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n
324
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Sunscreen L o t i o n (SPF 1 5 * ) I n q r e d i ents:, A Octyl dimethyl Benzophenone-3 P e t r o 1 a t um Dirnethicone B r i j 721 B r i j 72
W
PABA
46.6 0.2
B Water Carbomer 934 C Water Sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n ,
O
7.0 3.0 25.0 3.0 1.2 3.8
10% a q u e o u s
10.0 0.2
P r e p a r a t i on : D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n w a t e r . H e a t ( A ) t o 65C. H e a t ( B ) t o 60C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) a n d s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . C o o l t o 35C a n d a d d make-up w a t e r . F o r m u l a UV-5
Ingr-edi e n t s : A O c t y l methoxyci nnimate O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA Benzophenone-3 Octyl palmi t a t e Arlamol E B r i ] 72 A r l a c e l 83 S o r b i t a n S e s q u i o l e a t e
. wto/, -.
7.5 8.0 5.0 5.0 3.0 2.0 1.o
B Water C a r b o m e r 1342
58.1 0.2
C Water Triethanolamine
10.0 0.2
Preparation: D i s p e r s e C a r b o m e r i n w a t e r . H e a t ( A ) t o 65C. H e a t ( B ) t o 60C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) a n d s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . C o o l t o 50C a n d a d d make-up w a t e r . P o u r a b o v e s e t point * E s t i m a t e d Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r F o r m u l a UV-8
.
SOURCE:
ICI A m e r i c a s : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products
Sunscreen Moi s t u r i zi..ng Forrnu a t i n g D e s i g n Th s f o r m u l a de p r o p e r t i e s of C e r a t h e s u n s c r e e n Esca an a p p r o x i m a t e SPF excellent skin fee
325
Cream
and Advantages: o n s t r a t e s t h e r h e o l o g i c a l and s t a b i l i z i n g Be1 1 i n a . I n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h i s f o r m u l a i s 01 ( O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA) g i v i n g t h i s f o r m u l a v a l u e o f 4 t o 6 . The cream has h i g h g l o s s and
Raw M a t g r i a1 s : O i l Phase: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax ) M i nosi 1 E s c a l o l 507 Amerchol L 1 0 1 Castor O i l Glycerol Monostearate Isopropyl Palmitate O z o k e r i t e 160/164 S i l i c o n e F l u i d 245 P r o p y l Paraben Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d ) Butylene Glycol Sodi um B o r a t e M e t h y l Paraben
Wt%
6.0 6.0 5.1 5.0 3.0 2.0 2.0 1.0 1.o 0.2 65.3 2.9 0.2 0.3
Procedure: Heat t h e w a t e r phase t o 75C under a g i t a t i o n e n s u r i n g t h a t t h e e n t i r e phase i s s o l u b i l i z e d . H e a t and m i x t h e o i l phase u n t i l homogeneous and a t e m p e r a t u r e o f 75C i s m a i n t a i n e d . S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e w a t e r phase under v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C and p o u r i n t o j a r s . A d a p t a t i o n o f F o r m u l a and i t s I n f l u e n c e on t h e P r o d u c t : I t i s easy t o a l t e r t h e s u n s c r e e n to s u i t y o u r p r e f e r e n c e , w i t h o u t c h a n g i n g t h e c o n s i s t e n c y . The e m u l s i o n v i s c o s i t y can e a s i l y be a l t e r e d by c h a n g i n g t h e o i l a n d / o r wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n . Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) can b e added t o n a t u r a l l y enhance t h e SPF.
SOURCE:
K o s t e r Keunen I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
326
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formuiafions
Sunscre-gn
(OlW)
L o t 2 o n SPF 1-6
I N C I N a m e j T r a d e Name: Phase A : O c t o c r y l e n e / E u s o l e x OCR I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e / L e x o l IPM-NF C12-15 A l c o h o l s B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v TN C e t y l A l c o h o l / C r o d a c o l C-70 Steareth-2/Bri] 72 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 / B r i ] 721 D i m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d 100cST
Wt%
7.00 4.00 4.00 1 .BG 2.00 2.50
0 . 50
Phase B : D e i o n i z e d Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) C a r b o m e r ( 2 % a q . s o l u t i o n ) / C a r b o p o l ETD 2 0 2 0 P h e n y l b e n z i m i d a z o l e S u l f o n i c A c i d (YO a s a c i d ) / E u s o l e x 232 Phase C : Phenoxyethanol (and) Isopropylparaben (and) p a r a b e n ( a n d ) B u t y l p a r a b e n i L i q u a P a r PE
53.20 2.00 20.00 2.00
Isobutyl1.GO
Procedure: P r e p a r e Phase B b y c o m b i n i n g w a t e r , t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , and E u s o l e x 2 3 2 . H e a t t h e m i x t u r e to 50C w h i l e s t i r r i n g u n t i l E u s o l e x 2 3 2 i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Add 2% c a r b o m e r s o l u t i o n . Srir a n d h e a t t o 6 5 C . I f c r y s t a l s a r e o b s e r v e d , a d d a f e w d r o p s o f t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g and h e a t i n g u n t i l no c r y s t a l s r e m a i n . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . S t i r and h e a t t o 70C. Add P h a s e B t o P h a s e A w h i l e g e n t l y s t i r r i n g . H o m o g e n i z e g e n t l y w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n . When m i x t u r e t e m p e r a t u r e c o o l s t o 5OC add Phase C a n d c o n t i n u e t o homogenize u n t i l m i x t u r e i s homogeneous. S t i r g e n t l y a l l o w i n g m i x t u r e t o r e a c h room t e m p e r a t u r e . Note: V i s c o s i t y : 2 4 , 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d R V # 5 , 1 0 rpm CJ 25C) S t a b i l i t y F r e e z e i T h a w : No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 5 c y c l e s S t a b i l i t y 5OC: No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 3 m o n t h s SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c . : Formula EUS5-26
Sun Care Products
327
Sunscreen (O/Wy L o t i o n SPF 1 7 I N C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A: O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Neo H e l i o p a n AV I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e / L e x o l IPM-NF C12-15 A l c o h o l s B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v TN C e t y l A l c o h o l / C r o d a c o l C-70 S t e a r e t h - 2 / B r i j 72 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 / B r i j 721 Dimethicone/Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d 100 cST
Phase B : O e i o n i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) Carbomer ( 2 % aq. s o l u t i o n ) / C a r b o p o l E T D 2020 P h e n y l b e n z i m i d a z o l e S u l f o n i c A c i d ( % as a c i d ) / E u s o l e x 232 Phase C : Phenoxyethanol ( a n d ) I s o p r o p y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) I s o b u t y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) B u t y l p a r a b e n / L i q u a P a r PE
Wt% 7.00 4.00 4.00 2.30 2.00 2.50 0.50 52.70 2.00 20.00 2.00
1.oo
Procedure: P r e p a r e Phase B by c o m b i n i n g w a t e r , t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , and E u s o l e x 232. Heat t h e m i x t u r e t o 50C w h i l e s t i r r i n g u n t i l E u s o l e x 232 i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Add 2% carbomer s o l u t i o n . S t i r and h e a t t o 65C. I f c r y s t a l s a r e o b s e r v e d , add a few d r o p s o f t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t n u e m i x i n g and h e a t i n g u n t i l no c r y s t a l s r e m a i n . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . S t i r and h e a t t o 70C. Add Phase B t o Phase A w h i l e g e n t l y s t i r r i n g . Homogenize g e n t l y w i t h m i n i m a l a e r a t i o n . When m i x t u r e t e m p e r a t u r e c o o l s t o 50C add Phase C and c o n t i n u e t o homogenize u n t i l m i x t u r e i s homogeneous. S t i r g e n t l y a l l o w i n g m i x t u r e t o reach room temperature. Note: V i s c o s i t y : 29,600 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d RV#5, 1 0 rpm I3 25C) S t a b i l i t y Freeze/Thaw: No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 5 c y c l e s S t a b i l i t y 50C: No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 3 months SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c . : F o r m u l a EUSS-10
328
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
S u n s c r e e n (W/O) Lotion S P F a B r o a d Spectrum UVAlUVB P r o t e c t i o n
I N C I Namel-Trade ____ Name: Phase A : O c t y l S t e a r a t e / C r o d a m o l 0s J o j o b a (buxus chinensis)oil/Floraesters J o j o b a O i l C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s / M y r i t o l 318 Petrolatum/Ultima White C y c l o m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d D i m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 200 f l u i d 1 0 0 cST PEG-30 D i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e / A r l a c e 1 P135 P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e / A b i l WE-09 C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r y l P h o s p h a t e / C r o d a f o s CES C e r e s i n Wax/White C e r e s i n e 1502 Phase B : D e i o n i z e d Water Propylene Glycol A 1 1a n t o i n / R o n a P h e n y l b e n z i m d a z o l e S u l f o n i c A c i d (Yo a s a c i d ) / E u s o l e x T r i e t h a n o l ami n e ( 9 9 % )
7.00 4.00 4.00 3.00 3.00 2.00 2.50 2.50 1.oo 0.50
55.30 3.00 0.20 232 3.50 3.00
Phase C: T i t a n i um D i o x i d e / E u s o l e x T - 2 0 0 0 Phase D : ( I s o p r o p y l paraben, I s o b u t y l paraben, P h e n o x y e t h a n o l ) / L i q u a P a r PE
WL%
5.00 n-Butyl
paraben, 0.50
Procedure: Combine p h a s e A . H e a t t o 75C w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i l h o m o g e n e o u s . Add p h a s e C t o A . C o o l m i x t u r e t o 60C. Combine a n d h e a t p h a s e B t o 60C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l s o l i d s a r e f u l l y d i s s o l v e d . S l o w l y add phase B t o A / C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add p h a s e D t o A/B/C. H o m o g e n i z e a t moderate speeds t o a v o i d a e r a t i o n u n t i l t e m p e r a t u r e c o o l s t o 3 5 C . S t i r s l o w l y a l l o w i n g m i x t u r e t o r e a c h room t e m p e r a t u r e . Note: V i s c o s i t y : 1 6 , 0 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d RV#5, 10 rpm @ 25C) S t a b i l i t y F r e e z e / T h a w : No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 5 c y c l e s S t a b i l i t y 50C: No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 2 m o n t h s
SOURCE: Rona/EM i n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a EUS5-68
Sun Care Products
329
S u n s c r e e n _ - ~ W ~ ~ ~ I . ~ ~3- S . P ~ ~ Broad S p e c t r u m U V A / U V B . P r o t e c t i o n 1.K1- Nam1.T-r ade-.._N a_%.;. Phase A : O c t y l Stearate/Crodamol 0s O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Neo H e l i o p a n AV C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s / M y r i t o 1 318 P e t r o l a t um/Ul t i ma w h i t e C y c l o m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d D i m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 2 0 0 F l u i d 100cST PEG-30 D i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e / A r l a c e l P 1 3 5 P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e / A b i l WE-09 C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r y l P h o s p h a t e / C r o d a f o s CES C e r e s i n Wax/White C e r e s i n e 1 5 0 2
Phase B : D e i o n i z e d Water P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l A 1 1 a n t o i n/Rona S o d i um C h l o r i d e
4.00 7.00 4 I00 3.00 3.00 2.00 2.50 2.50 1 .oo 0.50
61 . 3 0 3.00 0.20
0.50
Phase C : Titanium Dioxide/Eusolex Phase 0 : ( I s o p r o p y l paraben,
WtTO
5.00
T-2000
I s o b u t y l paraben, PE
n-butyl
paraben,
phenoxyethanol)/LiquaPar
0.50
Procedure: Combine p h a s e A . H e a t t o 75C w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i l homogeneous. Add p h a s e C t o A . C o o l m i x t u r e t o 65C. Combine a n d h e a t p h a s e B t o 55C w n i l e s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l s o l i d s a r e f u l l y d i s s o l v e d . S l o w l y add phase B t o A / C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add p h a s e D t o A / B / C . H o m o g e n i z e a t moderate speeds t o a v o i d a e r a t i o n u n t i l t e m p e r a t u r e c o o l s t o 3 5 C . S t i r s l o w l y a l l o w i n g m i x t u r e t o r e a c h room t e m p e r a t u r e . Note: V i s c o s i t y : 2 2 , 4 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d R V # 5 , 1 0 rpm @ 25C) S t a b i l i t y F r e e z e / T h a w : No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 5 c y c l e s S t a b i l i t y a t 50C: No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 3 m o n t h s SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s ,
I n c , : F o r m u l a EUS5-66
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
330
S u n s c r e e n (W/O) L o t i o n SPF 30 W a t e r p r o o f B r o a d S p e c t r u m UVA/UVB P r o t e c t i o n S t a t i c SPF 33 W a t e r p r o o f SPF 30 I N C I Name/Trade Name: Phase A : O c t y l S t e a r a t e / C r o d a m o l 0s O c t o c r y l ene/Eusol ex OCR C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s / M y r i t o 1 318 P e t r o l a t u m / U l t i ma W h i t e C y c l o m e t h i c o n e / D o w C o r n i n g 344 F l u i d D i m e t h i cone/Dow C o r n i n g 200 F1 u i d 50cST PEG-30 D i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e / A r l a c e 1 P I 35 P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e / A b i l WE-09 C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ( a n d ) C e t e a r y l P h o s p h a t e / C r o d a f o s CES
Phase B : Dei o n i zed Water P r o p y l e n e G1 y c o l A1 1 a n t o i n / R o n a P h e n y l b e n z i m i d a z o l e S u l f o n i c A c i d (% a s a c i d ) / E u s o l e x 232 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) Sodium C h l o r i d e
7.00 7.00 5.00 1.50 3.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 1 .oo 57.40 3.00 0.20 2.00 2.00 0.40
Phase C : T i t a n i um D i o x i d e / E u s o l e x T - 2 0 0 0 Phase D : ( I s o p r o p y l paraben, I s o b u t y l paraben, p h e n o x y e t h a n o l ) / L i q u a P a r PE/ISP
Wt%
4.00
n-butyl
paraben, 0.50
Procedure: Combine Phase A . H e a t t o 75C w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a g i t a t i o n u n t i l homogeneous. Add Phase C t o A . C o o l m i x t u r e t o 65C. Combine a n d h e a t Phase B t o 55C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l s o l i d s a r e f u l l y d i s s o l v e d . S l o w l y a d d Phase B t o A/C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add Phase D t o A / B / C . H o m o g e n i z e a t moderate speeds t o a v o i d a e r a t i o n u n t i l t e m p e r a t u r e c o o l s t o 35C. S t i r s l o w l y a l l o w i n g m i x t u r e t o r e a c h room t e m p e r a t u r e .
Note: V i s c o s i t y : 1 5 , 2 0 0 c p s ( B r o o k f i e l d RV#5, 1 0 rpm 8 25C) S t a b i l i t y F r e e z e / T h a w : No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 5 c y c l e s S t a b i l i t y 50C: No s e p a r a t i o n a f t e r 1 m o n t h
SOURCE: Rona/EM I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : F o r m u l a EUS6-14
Sun Care Products
T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e E a s e d W a t e r R e s i s t a n t Sunscreen
331
(SPF 2 2 )
T h i s smooth s u n s c r e e n l o t i o n c o n t a i n s no " c h e m i c a l " a b s o r b e r s a n d d e l i v e r s u n i f o r m , n o n - c h a l k y w a t e r p r o o f p r o t e c t i o n . Pemulen TR-1 e n s u r e s h i g h s t a b i l i t y a n d a l l o w s f o r e a s y f o r m u l a t i o n o f the lotion.
I n q r e d ie n t /T r a d e Name : P a r t A: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . D i s o d i u m EDTA 3 . Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose/Benecel 4 . Aminomethyl Propanol/AMP-95 5. Propylene Glycol
Wt% 67.10 0.05 0.10 0.25 5.00
MP943PR
P a r t B: 6 . C12-15 A l c o h o l s E e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v TN 7. Butyl Stearate 8 . M y r i s t y 1 M y r i s t a t e / C e r a p h y l 424 9. Sorbitan Oleate 10.Acrylates/C10-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e s Crosspolymer/ Pemulen TR-1 l l . C a r b o m e r / C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 10 Part C: 13. O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (and) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e / T i o v e i l 1 4 . P o l y g l y c e r y l - 1 0 D e c a o l e a t e / C a p m u l 10G-10-0
3.00 3.00 4.00 0.10 0.20 0.20 OP
15.00 1.oo
Properties: Appearance: W h i t e , t h i c k , creamy e m u l s i o n pH: 6 . 2 - 6 . 8 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) : 32,000-38,000 P r e p a r a t i o n Procedure: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e f o r m u l a t i o n . H e a t t o 50C. 2 . I n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l , combine f i r s t f o u r P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . H e a t t o 65C. A f t e r m i x t u r e i s u n i f o r m , d i s p e r s e r e s i n s . M i x unti 1 uniform. 3 . U s i n g r a p i d a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x t o f o m a smooth, v i s c o u s e m u l s i o n . 4 . Combine P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s a n d m i x w e l l . 5 . Add P a r t C t o b a t c h . 6 . U s i n g m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y a d d P a r t D t o t h e emu s i o n . S l o w l y c o o l l o t i o n u s i n g c o n t i n u e d moderate a g i t a t i o n .
SOURCE:
B . F . G o o d r i c h C o . : F o r m u l a t i o n PO049
332
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Waterproof Sunscreen Cream Concept Statement: An elegant waterproof sunscreen cream containing Pationic SCL to moisturize and smooth skin, and SOD Vegetable and Defensine to detoxify, repair and protect the skin. Inqredients: 1. Pationic SCL (Sodium Cocoyl Lactylate) 2 . Rita Cetearvl Alcohol 50/50 (Cetearvl Alcohol) 3. Rita GMS (Giyceryl Stearate) 4. Titanium Dioxide (Micro) 5. Methyl Anthranilate 6. C12-Cl6 Alkyl Benzoate 7. PVP/Eicosene Copolymer 8. Distilled/Deionized Water 9. Acritamer 941 (Carbomer) 10.Propylene Glycol 11.DMDM Hydantoin 12.NaOH ( 2 0 % Solution) 13.SOD Vegetable (Superoxide Dismutase) 14.Defensine (Wheat Germ Extract) 15.Fragrance 16.D&C Red No. 33
wt% 0.50 1.60 4.00 4.00 5.00 7.50 0.50 68.10 0.20
3.00 2.00 q.s.
2.40 3.00 q.s. q.s.
Compounding Procedure: Disperse item 9 into item 8 and neutralize with item 12. Add item 10 and heat to 80C. Combine items 1-7 and heat to 80C. Add oil phase to water phase. Cool to 35C and items 13-16. SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp.: LI Ref. No. 124-35B
Sun Care Products
333
Waterproof Suntan Lotion SPF 17 Inqredient: Wt8;X A: Isostearic Acid 4.00 Cetyl Alcohol 1.00 DEA Cetyl Phosphate 2.00 Dimethicone 0.50 Octyl Methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX) 7.50 Octyl Salicylate 4.00 Benzophenone-3 (Uvinul M-40) 2.00 10.00 Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate (Elefac 1-205) B: Deionized Water 63.00 Veegum, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 0.75 Rhodigel, Xanthan Gum 0.25 G 1ycerin 4.00 C: Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben 1.00 Procedure: Weigh the water into a suitable vessel and heat to 85C. Dry and blend the Veegum and Rhodigel and add them to the water while mixing with a homogenizer at 5000 rpm. Continue mixing for 20 minutes. Add the remaining Part B ingredient and mix 3 minutes. Weigh and mix the Part A ingredients in another vessel and heat them to 85C. Add Part A to Part B and mix for 10 minutes at 5000 rpm. Move the batch to a propeller mixer and adjust the speed to create a small vortex. Begin cooling while mixing slowly. At 40C, add Part C. Continue cooling and package at 35C. *As received basis SOURCE: R.T. Vanderbilt Co., Inc.: Formulation from Bernel Chemical Co., Inc.
Moisturizinq Sunscreen Wt% Inqredient: Part A: Monafax MAP-160 1.0 Phospholipid SV 2.5 KOH (45%) 0.4 Germaben I1 0.4 Titanium Dioxide 0.4 Water 77.0 1.0 Monasil PDM Part B: Cetyl Alcohol 2.0 1212-15 Alkyl Benzoates 2.0 Isopropyl Palmitate 2.3 Dimethicone 1.0 Octyl Methoxycinnamate 6.0 Methyl Anthranilate 3.0 Steareth-2 1.0 Procedure: 1) Heat A & B separately to 65C. 2) Slowly add B to A with homogenization and continue blending for an appropriate time. Adjust pH to 5.0 with citric acid. 3 ) Stir cool to 40-45C, add fragrance and package. SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Suggested Formulation
334
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W a t e r g r o o f WfO-Suns_c_reen L o t i on SPF-16 I n g r _ e d ients-; Wt% Phase A . P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol 5.0 ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) Mineral O i l 5.0 Octyl Stearate (Tegosoft 0 s ) 6 0 C y c l omethi cone 4 0 C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1.o I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( T e g o s o f t M) 4 0 H y d r o g e n a t e d C a s t o r Oil 0.8 M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne Wax 1.2 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 3 0 Phase 8 : Water 69 2 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.8 P r e s e r v a t i ves Q.S. Phase C : Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 8OC t o i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2 Heat Phase 8 t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w e n e r g y m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f r a g r a n c e 4 . Homogeni ze
Cp_o_l1-n-gpfte-r Su-n- Lcot_i-on
gt % Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 M e t h y l g l u c o s e D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care 450) 2.0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s ( T e g o s o f t CT) 6.5 Mineral O i l 5.7 Phase 6 : Glycerin 3.0 Water 71 . 4 Phase C: 0.8 Mineral O i l Carbomer 941 0.2 Ethanol 10.0 Phase D : Sodium H y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % s o l u t i o n ) 0.4 Phase E : Fragrance Q.S. P r e s e r v a t i ves Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o 8 O C . 2 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase 6 t o 8OC. Add A t o 6 o r B t o A w i t h o u t s t i r r i n g . 4 . S t i r . 5 . D i s p e r s e Carbomer i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r add t o A/B. Homogenize. 6 . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . 7 . Add E t h a n o l . 8 . Add phase D / E . S t i r . 9 . M i x u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i s c o r r e c t . __ Inaredienfs;
SOURCE:
G o l d s c h m i d t Chemical C o r p . :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Sun Care Products
335
Wa&%ruxo~f-WLQ_Sunsccee~L otia n SPF 22
_r_nsr_e_dLents 1.
Wt%
Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone 5.0 C o p o l y o l ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5.0 Mineral O i l 4.0 Octyl Stearate (Tegosoft 0s) 4.0 Cyclomethicone 1.o C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9 8 0 1 ) 4.0 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (Tegosoft M) 2.0 Almond O i 1 0.8 Hydrogenated Castor O i l M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1.2 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 3.0 Phase B: 69.2 Water Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.8 Q.S. Preservatives Phase C : Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Add t h e c o m p o n e n t s o f Phase A . H e a t w h i l e m i x i n g t o 8OC t o i n c o r p o r a t e t h e w a x e s . C o o l t o 50C. 2 . H e a t Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w e n e r g y m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y a p p e a r a n c e a t a l l t i m e s . 3 . C o o l t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4 . H o m o g e n i z e . Wate.r.- ? n- 0.i1 S_uns c r e e n S P F 26
Lnsr-edi e.nts : wto/, Phase A : C e t y l Dimethicone Copolyol (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 5.00 I s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) H e x y l L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) C e t y l D i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l Wax 9 8 4 0 ) 0.25 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 1 .25 Octyl Stearate (Tegosoft 0s) 5.35 Mineral O i l 1.75 Beeswax 1.20 0.80 Hydrogenated Castor O i l Phase B: 5.00 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate Titanium Dioxide 5.00 Cyclomethicone 4.40 Phase C : Water 69.20 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.80 Q.S. Preservatives Procedure: 1 . H e a t Phase A t o 85C t o m e l t a n d d i s p e r s e w a x e s . 2 . C o o l Phase A t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l o w e n e r g y m i x e r . 3 . R o l l e r m i l l t o reduce p a r t i c l e s i z e o f T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e . 4 . C o o l t o 50C. 5 . H e a t Phase C t o 50C. Add Phase C t o A/B s l o w l y w i t h low e n e r g y m i x i n g . M a i n t a i n a s m o o t h m i l k y a p p e a r a n c e a t a l l t i m e s w h i l e m i x i n g . 6 . C o o l t o 35C a n d h o m o g e n i z e . SOURCE: G o l d s c h m i d t C h e m i c a l C o r p . : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
336
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Water R e s i s t a n t Sunscreen L o t i o n
h ~ ~ s .e nd_it L T ~ & -Name:
%t.%
P a r t A: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . C a r b o m e r / C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 10 3 . D e i o n i z e d Water 4 . H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e / M e t h o c e l E4M 5 . Polymethoxy B i c y c l i c Oxazolidine/Nuosept C 6 . D i s o d i u m EDTA
62.60 0.20 20.00 0.10 0.20 0.05
Part C: 7 . O c t y l M e t h o x y c i n n a m a t e / N e o H e l i o p a n , T y p e AV 8 . O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e / N e o H e l i o p a n , Type 0 s 9 . O x y b e n z o n e / U v i n u 1 M-40 1 0 . C 1 2 - 1 5 A l c o h o l s B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v TN 11.Acrylates/C10-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e s Crosspolymer/ P e m u l e n TR-1
0.25
P a r t D: 1 2 . A m i n o m e t h y l P r o p a n o l /AMP-95 A-40 13.PEG-20 Almond G l y c e r i d e s / C r o v a 1 4 , F r a g r a n c e / F r a g r a n c e #99189 "Tw s t e r "
0.25 0.20 0.14
7.00 3.00 4.00 4.00
Properties: pH: 5 . 8 - 6 . 1 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) : 20,000-28,000 A p p e a r a n c e : Creamy w h i t e e m u l s on P r e p a r a t i o n Procedure: Part A: 1 . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l U l t r e z 10 i n d e i o n i z e d w a t e r (40-5OC) P a r t B: 2. D i s p e r s e Methocel i n d e i o n i z e d water i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . When u n i f o r m , a d d o t h e r P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . 3 . Add P a r t 8 t o P a r t A . Par- t c : 4 . Combine f i r s t f o u r P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s e p a r a t e v e s s e l . H e a t m i x t u r e and m i x u n t i l oxybenzone h a s d i s s o l v e d . 5 . C o o l P a r t C t o 45C. D i s p e r s e Pemulen TR-1 i n P a r t C . M i x u n t i l polymer i s dispersed w e l l . 6 . W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t C t o P a r t A . M i x f o r 20 m i n u t e s o r u n t i l a smooth, n o n - g r a i n y d i s p e r s i o n i s a p p a r e n t 7 . Add AMP-95 t o b a t c h . M i x u n t i l a s m o o t h p r o d u c t i s o b t a i n e d . 8 . Add C r o v o l A-40 a n d f r a g r a n c e . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m .
SOURCE:
6 . F . G o o d r i c h Co.:
F o r m u l a t i o n PO052
Sun Care Products
Water-Resistant
337
Sunscreen L o t i o n
SPF 2 4 T h i s h i g h S P F s u n s c r e e n l o t i o n p r o v i d e s l o n g - l a s t i n g UV p r o t e c t i o n and has e x c e l l e n t w a t e r - r e s i s t a n t p r o p e r t i e s p r o v i d e d by A v a l u r e A C 118 f i l m f o r m i n g p o l y m e r a n d P e m u l e n T R - 2 p o l y m e r i c emu1 s t f i erI n y r e d i e n t j T c a d e Name: P a r t A: 1 . D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . C a r b o m e r / C a r b o p o l U l t r - e z 1 0 Polymer3 . H y d r o x y p r o p y l M e t h y l c e l l L t l o s e / M e t h o c e l E4M 4 . P r o p y l ene G l y c o l 5 . Polymethoxy B i c y c l i c Oxazolidine/Nuosept C 6 . D i s o d i u t n EDTA 7 . PEG-20 A 1 mond G1 y c e r i des..'Crovol A-40 Part B: 8 . O c t y l M e t h o x y c i rtnama t.e/Neo He1 i o p a n , T y p e A V 9 . O c t y l S a l i c y l a t t t / N e o He; i o p a n , T y p e 0 s l O . O x y b e n z u n e / N e o He1 i opan, T y p e BR 11 .C12-15 A l c o h o l s B e n z o a t e / F i n s o l v TN 12.Acrylates,'C10-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer/ Pemirleri TR-2 P o l y m e r P a r t C: 1 3 . A m i n o m e t h y l P r , o p a n o l /AMP-55 1 4 . A c r y l a t . e ~C o p o l y m e r / A v a l i i r ~ AC 118 P o l y m e r 1 5 . F r a y r a i i c e #95189 " T w i s t e t - "
w tYo 66.10 0.25 0.10 1.oo 0.40 0.05 0.40
7.50 5.00
6.00
5 . on 0.25
0.30 7 I50 0.15
P r o p e r t i es : A p p e a r a n c e : M I 1 k y w h i t.e emu.1 s i o i i PH: 6.0-6.5 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) : 1S,UOO-24,OClO S P F : 24 S t a h i 1 i t y : P a s s e d 45C, ~ c c e l e r a t e d1 m o n t h . e / t h a v / - 3 C;y<;leS P r e p a r a t i o n Pr.0cedut-e: 1 . Part. A : U i s L J e r s e C a i ~ b n p o l U l t r r L i 0 p o l y m e r . a n d fvl i n warm d e i o n i z e d w a t e r ( 4 0 - 5 O C ) . R e d u c e r i i i x t r i g s polymers a r e dispersed. 2 . iYtier.i u n i f o r m , a d d o t h e r p a r t A i t ! g r e d i e t t t s a n d r i t i x u i - i t i 1 LI I Forrn. 3 . P a r t B : Contbi!ie f i r s t foi.tr i t i y r e c l i e i n t s i n P a r t 8 t t i a s e p ar'at e v e s s e l . H e a t and n i i r u i i t i l oxybenzone has d i s s o l v e d . 4 . C o o l P a r t B t o 4 5 C . D i s p e r s e P r r n u ~ l e t i TR-2 i t 1 P a r t E arid m i x u n l i1 w e l l d ispersed. 5 . W i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B i o P a r t A , tvlix Fur. 2 0 m i r1uCt.s or' i i i i t I 1 a s t t i o o t l i , t i o r i - y r a i rty c i i s p e r s i o n i s a p p a r e l i t . 6 . Add AMP-95 t o b a t c h , m i x u n t i l a stiiootlt pt-'or:luct i s o b t a i : i e d . 7 . A d d A v a l u r e A C 118 aiid fr.a yra r\ce t o b d t c h . M i x u n t i l IJnlfOt-m.
SOURCE:
BF G o o d r i c h S p e c i a l t y C h e m i c a l s :
F o r m u l a t i o n A0005
338
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
W/O Sunscreen Lotion Comvonent: Wt$ I Dehymuls PGPH/Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 3.0 Monomuls 90-018/Glyceryl Oleate 1.0 Myritol 318/Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 6.0 Eutanol G/Octyldodecanol 6.0 Cetiol SN/Cetearyl Isononanoate 5.0 Copherol F 1250/Tocopheryl Acetate 1.0 Permulgin 2550/Beeswax (Cera Alba) 1.2 7.0 Neo Heliopan ElOOO/Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate Zinc Oxide neutral 6.0 I1 Water 58.0 5.0 Glycerin 86% 111 Phenonip/Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Butylparaben 0.5 Perfume Oil 0.3 1. Melt the components listed under I at 80-85C and stir until homogeneous. 2. Heat the components listed under I1 to 80-85C and add to phase I while stirring. Stir for 5 minutes at this temperature. 3. Allow the emulsion to cool with stirring in such a way that it remains in continual motion. Avoid the incorporation of air. Homogenise at 65-55C by means of a suitable dispersion unit to improve both stability and structure. When fully homogeneous allow to cool to 30C with stirring. Addition of 111 at 30C. Formulation No.: HR1 LSF/SPF ca. 17 (DIN) O/W Lotion with SPF 15 Component: wt% I Emulgade PL 68/50/Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl Alcohol 4.5 Cetiol SN/Cetearyl Isononanoate 10.0 Baysilon M 350/Dimethicone 0.5 2.0 Copherol F 1300/Tocopherol Benzophenone-3 2.0 Octyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5 3.0 I1 Glycerin 86% 65.4 Water 111 Carbopol 981 2%ig/Carbomer 5.0 0.1 IV KOH 20%ig Viscosity 23C mPas: 15,000 1. Heat oil phase to 80C. Heat aqueous phase to 80C and add to oil phase while stirring. Emulsify for 5 minutes at this temperature. 2 . Allow the emulsion to cool with stirring in such a way that it remains in continual motion without developing a so-called "stirring cone". Avoid incorporation of air. Excessive stirring, in particular below 50C, can lead to the reduction of the final viscosity. 3. Add phase 111, at 50C. 4. At 40C neutralized with phase IV. Finish stirring at 30C. Note: During cooling, emulsion systems on the basis of Emulgade PL 68/50 can pass through distinct gel phase. Formulation No. 95/190/94 SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: Suggested Formulations
Sun Care Products
339
Zinc Oxide Sunscreen Cream fPABA/Oxvbenzone Free1 Estimated SPF=2O
Inaredient: A: Octocrylene (Neo Heliopan 303) Octyl Methoxycinnamate (Neo Heliopan AV) Isocetyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 Glyceryl Stearate PEG-40 Stearate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Tocopheryl Acetate
Wt%*
B: Zinc Oxide
6.00
C: Deionized Water Veegum Ultra, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate Rhodigel, Xanthan Gum Propylene Glycol Disodium EDTA
7.00 7.50 2.00 2.00 3.00 1.00 1.00 0.75 0.25
65.30 0.50 0.50 2.00 0.20
Weigh the Part C water into a suitable vessel and mix with a propeller stirrer operating at 1800 rpm. Weigh and dry blend the Veegum Ultra and Rhodigel and add them to the water. Mix for 30 minutes at 1800 rpm. Add the remaining Part C ingredients in order and mix until uniform. Begin heating the water phase to 75C. Weigh the Part A ingredients into another vessel and heat to 75C. Add Part B to Part A and mix until uniform. Slowly add Parts AtB to Part C and homogenize at 5000 rpm until uniform. Transfer the batch to a propeller mixer and adjust the speed to produce a small vortex. Begin cooling. At 40C, add Part D. Continue mixing and cooling. Package at 25-28C. SOURCE: R.T. Vanderbilt Co., Inc.: Formulation from Haarrnan & Reimer Corp.
340
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Z i n c O x i d e Sunscreen (Measured SPF=9.22 Ingredient: A: Glyceryl Stearate PEG-40 S t e a r a t e Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 T r i c o n t a n y l PVP Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides Mineral O i l Dimethicone B: Z i n c O x i d e ( Z i n c O x i d e N e u t r a l ) C : D e i o n i z e d Water Veegum U1 t r a , Magnesi um Aluminum S i 1 i c a t e R h o d i g e l , Xanthan Gum Propylene Glycol T e t r a s o d i um EDTA D : DMDM H y d a n t o i n ( a n d ) I o d o p r o p y n y l B u t y l c a r b a m a t e L a c t i c A c i d , 88%
Wt%* 2 50 0.75 0 * 75 2 .oo 5.00 5.00 2.00 10.00 65.35 0.75 0.50 5.00 0.10 0.20 0.10 I
Procedure: Weigh t h e P a r t C w a t e r i n t o a s u i t a b l e v e s s e l and mix w i t h a p r o p e l l e r s t i r r e r o p e r a t i n g a t 1800 r p m . Weigh and d r y b l e n d t h e Veegum U l t r a and R h o d i g e l and add them t o t h e w a t e r . M i x f o r 30 m i n u t e s a t 1800 rpm. Add t h e r e m a i n i n g P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . B e g i n h e a t i n g t h e w a t e r phase t o 8 O C . Weigh t h e P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a n o t h e r v e s s e l and h e a t t o 80C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . S l o w l y add P a r t s A t B t o P a r t C and homogenize a t 5 0 0 0 rpm u n t i l u n i f o r m . T r a n s f e r t h e b a t c h t o a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r and a d j u s t t h e speed t o p r o d u c e a s m a l l v o r t e x . B e g i n c o o l i n g . A t 40C, add P a r t 0 . C o n t i n u e m i x i n g and c o o l i n g . Package a t 25-3OC. *AS r e c e i v e d b a s i s
SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , Reimer C o r p .
I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n f r o m Haarman &
__._____ M i l k and Honey
Part: A A B
B C
Sunscreen S t i c k
wt%
Raw M a t e r i a l : Monalac ML M i l k L i p i d B l e a c h e d Beeswax O c t y l D i m e t h y l PABA Benzophenone 3 Fragrance
70.0 20.0 7.0 3.0 qs
Procedure: M e l t and m i x P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s 65C. M i x p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s a t a m b i e n t t e m p e r a t u r e , when c l e a r add t o P a r t A . Cool t o 60C. Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , and a n t i o x i d a n t s i f d e s i r e d . When w e l l m i x e d pour o f f i n t o c o n t a i n e r s . Product w i l l s o l i d i f y a t about 55C. T h i s p r o d u c t i s an opaque, p a l e y e l l o w s o l i d w i t h an a p p r o x i m a t e SPF v a l u e o f 1 5 .
SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s ,
Inc.:
F o r m u l a t i o n F-721
Section XI1 Miscellaneous
34 I
342
Cosmetic and Toi/etry Formulations Bacitracin OintmentlO/Wl
Wt%
Inqredients: A. Stearic acid Isopropyl Myristate Arlacel 60 sorbitan monostearate Tween 6 0 POE 20 sorbitan monostearate
15.0 1.0 2.0
B. Sorbitol 7 0 % Solution LISP Water
3.0 71.5
C.
Arlasolve DMI Dimethyl Isosorbide Bacitracin
1.5
5.0
1.0 4.s.
D. Preservative
Prepration: Add (B) to 72C to (A) at 70C. Agitate continuously until the emulsion reaches 50C. Stir in ( C ) until thoroughly mixed. Add (D). Stir until emulsion reaches 40C, replace lost water and package. Hydrocortisone Ointment (O/W] Insredients: A. Cetyl alcohol Arlacel 1 6 5 glycerol monostearate and poloxyethylene 100 stearate (acid-stable, self-emulsifying) B. Sorbitol 7 0 % Solution USP Water C.
Arlasolve DMI Dimethyl Isosorbide Hydrocortisone
D. Preservative
Wt% 7.0
5.0
5.0 72.0 10.0 1.0 4.s.
Preparation: Add (B) at 72C to (A) at 70C with good agitation. Add ( C ) at 50C and mix thoroughly. Add D. Stir until emulsion reaches 45C, replace lost water and package.
SOURCE: ICI Surfactants: Suggested Formulations
Miscellaneous
343
C h i l d r e n ' s D e n t i f r i c e Gel Stage. A
Ingredient: Glycerin CMC 9MXF U s i n g Cowles d i s s o l v e r , persed.
a d d CMC t o g l y c e r i n u n t i l w e l l
Wt% 5 00 0 30 dis-
B
35.55 S o r b i t o 1 (70%) 3.00 Water 0 50 Na B e n z o a t e 0 84 Na MFP 0 20 Na S a c c h a r i n FD&C B l u e # 1 ( 1 % s o l n ) 0.15 D i s s o l v e b e n z o a t e , MFP, a n d s a c c h a r i n i n w a t e r a n d s o r b i t o l Add c o l o r . M i x u n t i l d i s p e r s e d C
B t o A u s i n g a homogenizer. Allow m i x t u r e t o h e a t t o 50-6OC. Add
PEG 1 4 5 0 S o r b i t o l (70%) M e l t P E G , M i x w i t h s o r b l t o l a t h i g h s p e e d Add t o C , m i x i n g . M a i n t a i n h e a t a t 50-60C, and m i x f o r 30 m i n s .
5 00 25.00 ,vhile
S y l o d e n t 750 Sylodent 2 T r a n s f e r b a t c h t o vacuum, m i x e r b e a p p l i e d i f d e s i r e d ( 3 0 t o 40C1
5.00 12.00 H e a t may
D
E
Mix for
F Flavor Add a n d m i x f o r o n e m i n .
20-30
mi,is
1 00
S o r b i t o 1 (70%) 5 00 Na L a d r y l S u l f a t e 1 .50 P r e d i s p e r s e SLS i n h o t s o r b i t o l Add t o b a t c h w i t h m i n i m a l d i s p e r s i o n . P u l l 28" b e f o r e s t a r t i n g m i x e r . G
SOURCE:
Grace/Davison* Suggested Formulation
344
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Clear Emollient Microemulsion (With AHA-Ester) Raw Materials: A) Imwitor 3 8 0 (Glyceryl Cocoate/Citrate/Lactate) Miglyol 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Softigen 767 (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides) Preservative Water up to B ) Fragrance
wt% 30.00 20.00 30.00
q.s. 100.00
q.s.
Preparation: All ingredients are mixed together and stirred until homogeneous. Formulation 1.5Y Penetratinq Massaqe Oil (With AHA-Ester) Raw Materials: Imwitor 380 (Glyceryl Cocoate/Citrate/Lactate) Miglyol 812 (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Miglyol 8 4 0 (Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/ Dicaprate) Softigen 701 (Glyceryl Ricinoleate) Mineral Oil Antioxidants
wt% 10.00 40.00
20.00 1.00 29.00 q.s.
PreDaration: A11 ingredients are mixed together at about 4 0 degrees C. Formulation 1.52
SOURCE: Creanova Inc.: Suggested Formulations
Miscellaneous
345
E m u l s i o n , Type O/W Raw M a t e r i a1 s : A: E u m u l g i n VL 75 Lanette 0 Monomul s 60-35C C e t i o l LC Cetiol 6 C e t i o l PGL Phenoni p
wt% 4.50 2.00 1.oo 4.00 5.00 1.oo 0.30
B: Water, d i s t i l l e d Phenoni p Glycerin Carbopol 980
C:
66.85 0.30 2.00 0.30
KOH 20%
0.75
0 : Glycoderm ( P )
10.00
Manufacture: A : M e l t and b r i n g t o a p p r o x . 70C. B: B r i n g t o approx. O C and add t o a ) w i t h s t i r r ng C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 50C C : Add. C o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o o l e d t o a p p r o x . 30C D: S t i r i n . Perfume, homogenize
SOURCE:
Chemisches L a b o r a t o r i u m D r . Formulation
.
K u r t R i c h t e r GmbH: Suggested
Microsel, Soft Raw M a t e r i a l s : A . S o f t i g e n 767 (PEG-6 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c G l y c e r i d e s ) M a r l i p a l 1618/25 ( C e t e a r e t h - 2 5 ) I PM B.
Preservative Water ad Perfume A 1 0 003 E F r a g r a n c e
Wtl 29.00 15.00 5.00 q.s 100.00
0.30
Preparation : A i s b r o u g h t t o 70C, B i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o A . I t i s s t i r r e d down t o 35C, t h e n p e r f u m e i s added.
SOURCE:
H u l s A k t i e n g e s e l l s c h a f t : F o r m u l a t i o n HUKMGS
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
346
High Cleanina Dentifrice Gel Stage:
Inqredient: Glycerin CMC 9MXF U s i n g Cowles d i s s o l v e r , dispersed.
W
B
5.00 0.30
A
add CMC t o g l y c e r i n u n t i l w e l l
26.51 S o r b i t o l (70%) 3.00 Water 0.50 Na Benzoate 0.84 Na MFP 0.20 Na S a c c h a r i n 0.15 FD&C B l u e # I ( 1 % s o l n ) D i s s o l v e b e n z o a t e , MFP, and s a c c h a r i n i n w a t e r and s o r b i t o l . Add c o l o r . M i x u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . 0
Add B t o A and m i x u s i n g a homogen z e r . A l l o w m i x t u r e t o h e a t t o 50-6OC.
C
PEG 1450 Sorbi t o 1 (70%) M e l t P E G . M i x w i t h s o r b i t o l a t h i g h speed. Add t o C , m i x i n g . M a i n t a i n h e a t a t 50-60C, and m i x f o r 30 m i n s . D
5.00 21 .oo while
S y l o d e n t 756 20.00 Sylodent 2 8.50 T r a n s f e r b a t c h t o vacuum m i x e r . M i x f o r 2 0 - 3 0 m i n s . Heat may be a p p l i e d i f d e s i r e d ( 3 0 t o 40C). E
F
Alcohol F1 a v o r Add and m i x f o r one m i n
1.50 1 .oo
Sorbi t o 1 (70%) 5.00 Na L a u r y l S u l f a t e 1 .50 P r e d i s p e r s e SLS i n h o t s o r b i t o l . Add t o b a t c h w i t h m i n i m a l d i s p e r s i o n . P u l l 28" b e f o r e s t a r t i n g m i x e r . G
SOURCE: Grace/Davi
son:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n
Miscellaneous
347
Insect Repellent C r e a m (W/O) with W-Filter Raw Materials: Insect Repellent 3535 (Art.-No. 111887) (Ethyl Butylacetylaminopropionate) Eusolex 6300 (Art.-No. 105385) . (4-Methylbenzylidene . Camphor ) Dow Corning 3225C (Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone Copolyol) Dow Corning 344 (Cyclomethicone) Bentone paste SIL (Cyclomethicone (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) SD Alcohol 40) Solvent ID (Isododecane) Witconol 14 (Polyglyceryl-4Oleate) Beeswax, white (Art.-No. 111544) (Beeswax) Carnauba wax (Copernica Cerifera) Sodium chloride (Art.-No. 106400) Propanediol-1,2 (Art.-No. 107478) (Propylene Glycol) Preservatives Water, demineralized ad
wt% 20.00 3.00
12.00 2.50
15.00 7.30 2.50
2.00 0.50 2.00 2.00 q.s. 100.00
Procedure: Mix phase C. Heat phase B to 8OC, stir until clear and cool to 25C. Add phase A to phase B. Add phase C. Homogenize. As required add perfume. Note: Samples contain as preservatives 0.20% Euxyl K400 Formulation 14-04/F Insect Repellent Lotion Raw Materials: Wt”a A Insect Repellent 3535 (Art. No. 111887) (Ethyl Butylacetylaminopropionate) 20.00 Polyethylene glycol 400 (Art. No. 817003) (PEG-8) 5.00 B Ethanol 96% (Art. No. 100971) 35.00 15.00 Water, demineralized C Polyethylene glycol 1500 (Art. No. 817005) (PEG-30) 4.00 D Arlamol E (PPG-15 Stearyl Ether) 3.00 Perfume oil Bariton (10607) 0.30 E Water, demineralized 17.70 Procedure: Blend phase D. Mix phase B and incorporate phases A, C, D and E while stirring. Note : pH22C=5.8 Formulation 10-01/F
SOURCE: Rona-Merck: Suggested Formulations
348
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Men's A l c o h o l - F r e e
Colosne
T h i s s p r a y a b l e p r o d u c t i s l i g h t , e l e g a n t and w i l l n o t s t i n g the skin.
Wt%
I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: Dei o n i zed Water DMDM H y d a n t o i n / G l y d a n t O l e t h - l O / B r i j 97
91.58 0.30 0.30
P a r t B: Cyclomethicone/245 F l u i d I s o s t e a r y l Benzoate A c r y l a t e s / C l O - 3 0 A1 k y l A c r y l a t e C r o s s p o l y m e r / Pemulen TR-2 Part C: P r o p y l e n e G l y c o l ( a n d ) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea ( a n d ) M e t h y l p a r a b e n ( a n d ) Propylparaben/Germaben I I E T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e / T E A (99%) F r a g r a n c e / " P o l o S p o r t " t y p e #A1 1518 o r " D r a k k a r " t y p e #F10091513 D i s o d i um EDTA/Versene NA
4.00 0.50 0.15
1.oo 0.12 2.00 0.05
Properties: pH: 5 . 5 - 6 . 0 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) a t 25C: 600-900 PreDaration Procedure: 1 . Combine P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n a v e s s e l w h i c h w i l l c o n t a n the e n t i r e formulaton. 2 . Blend P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n a separate vessel (ambient t e m p e r a t u r e ) . The Pemulen p o l y m e r s h o u l d be s l u r r i e d i n t h i s phase. 0-20 3 . W i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n , add P a r t B t o P a r t A . M i x f o r minutes t o a l l o w p . o l y- m e r t o s w e l l . Add Germaben I I E and m i x u n t i 1 uniform. 4 . Add TEA and m i x v i g o r o u s l y t o p r o d u c e a smooth e m u l s i o n . 5 . Add f r a g r a n c e t o b a t c h . 6 . M i x D i s o d i u m EDTA and e m u l s i o n i n c r e m e n t a l l y t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y downward t o 600-900 cP t o make p r o d u c t s p r a y a b l e . (NOTE: Do n o t add more t h a n a t o t a l o f 0 . 1 % o r e m u l s i o n may separate.)
SOURCE:
B.F. Goodrich Co.:
F o r m u l a t i o n PO059
Miscellaneous
Mineral
349
O i l Emulsion C o n t a i n i n g Ethanol
F o r m u l a SK-13 i s a m i n e r a l o i l c r e a m w i t h a l u x u r i o u s a f t e r f e e l . The a l c o h o l p r o v i d e s a c o o l i n g e f f e c t a s t h e c r e a m s p r e a d s s m o o t h l y w i t h good " r u b - i n " c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s r e s u l t i n g i n a non-greasy f e e l . Ingredients:
Wt%
A Light mineral o i l
B
C D E F
8.00
S t e a r y l a1 c o h o 1 B r i j 721 S t e a r e t h - 2 1 B r i j 72 S t e a r e t h - 2 Water, d e i o n i z e d Carbomer 9 3 4 S o d i u m h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n , 10% a q u e o u s Preservative Perfume E t h a n o l , SDA-40 ( 1 9 0 p r o o f )
1
.oo
2,20 1 .72 66.00 0.40 0.40 q.s. 0.20 20.00
P r e p a r a t i on : H e a t ( A ) t o 70C a n d ( 8 ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) b e l o w 50C. Add ( E ) a n d ( F ) a t 35C. R e p l a c e w a t e r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n a n d p a c k a g e . F o r m u l a SK-13 Hvdrophilic O i l
Wt%
Inaredients: Arlatone T Arlamol E Arlamol HD A r l a m o l S7 S u n f 1 ower o i 1 Jojoba o i l Paraffin o i l
3.0 6.0 20.0 4.0 20.0 5.0 42.0
Manufacture: Simple room-temperature b l e n d i n g Comments: H y d r o p h i l i c i t y o f t h e o i l can be a l t e r e d by a d j u s t i n g t h e concentration o f Arlatone T. Formula F44-12-3 SOURCE: I C I S u r f a c t a n t s :
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
350
M o d e r a t e A b r a s i v i t y D e n t i f r i ce G e l Ingredient: G1 y c e r i n CMC SMXF Us ng Cowles d i s s o l v e r , d spe s e d .
Wt%
Staqe:
5.00 0 30
A
I
add CMC t o g l y c e r i n u n t i l w e l l
31.51 Sorbi t o 1 (70%) Water 3.00 Na Benzoate 0.50 Na MFP 0.84 Na S a c c h a r i n 0.20 FD&C B l u e #1 ( 1 % s o l n ) 0.15 D i s s o l v e b e n z o a t e , MFP, and s a c c h a r i n i n w a t e r and s o r b i t o l . Add c o l o r . M i x u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . B
C
Add B t o A and m i x u s i n g a h o m o g e n i z e r . A l l o w m i x t u r e t o h e a t t o 50-6OC.
D
PEG 1450 5.00 S o r b i t o 1 (70%) 25.00 M e l t PEG. M i x w i t h s o r b i t o l a t h i g h speed. Add t o C , w h i l e m i x i n g . M a i n t a i n h e a t a t 50-60C, and m i x f o r 30 m i n s
E
S y l o d e n t 750 Sylodent 2 T r a n s f e r b a t c h t o vacuum m i x e r . M i x f o r 0 - 3 0 be a p p l i e d i f d e s i r e d (30 t o 40C). F
A1 coho1 F1 a v o r Add and m i x f o r one m i n .
10.00 9.50 m i n s . Heat may 1.50 1.oo
Sorbi t o 1 (70%) 5.00 Na L a u r y l S u l f a t e 1.50 P r e d i s p e r s e S L S i n h o t S o r b i t o l . Add t o b a t c h w i t h m i n i m a l d i s p e r s i o n . P u l l 28" b e f o r e s t a r t i n g m i x e r . G
SOURCE: G r a c e / D a v i s o n :
Suggested Formulation
Miscellaneous
357
Mu1 t i p l e Emul s ion I. P r i m a r y e m u l s i o n W / O :
Wt%
Inqredi ents: A A r l a m o l HD, Isohexadecane C a p r y l ic / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e s A r l a m o l E , PPG-15 s t e a r y l e t h e r A r l a c e l P135, PEG-30 D i p o l y h y d r o x y s t e a r a t e
15.0 7.5 7.5 4.0
B Water
65.6 0.4
Sodium c h l o r i d e Preservative
9.s
P r e p a r a t i o n - P r i m a r y Emul s i o n : Heat ( A ) and ( B ) t o 45C s e p a r a t e l y . Add (B) t o ( A ) w i t h p r o p e l l e r s t i r r i n g . Homogenize m i x t u r e t h o r o u g h l y . P r o p e l l e r s t i r f o r 30 m i n u t e s . 11. Secondary e m u l s i o n W / O / W :
Inaredie n t s l
*W 70.0
A P r i m a r y e m u l s i o n (W/O)
26.8 2.0 0.5 0.2
B Water S y n p e r o n i c PE/F/127 Poloxamer 407 C Carbopol 934, Carborner D Sodium c h l o r i d e E Preservative F T r ie t h a n o l ami ne
q.s
0.5
Preparation-Secondary Emulsion: D i s s o l v e S y n p e r o n i c PE/F127 i n w a t e r a t 20C w i t h s t i r r i n g t o p r o d u c e ( B ) . S i f t (C) i n t o ( B ) w i t h f a s t s t i r r i n g . Add ( D ) and ( E ) t o ( B ) / ( C ) m i x t u r e w i t h f a s t s t i r r i n g . S l o w l y add ( A ) t o ( B ) / ( C ) / ( D ) / ( E ) m i x t u r e . Add ( F ) w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r m o d e r a t e l y f a s t f o r 15 m i n u t e s . Comments: V i s c o s i t y 5 0 5 . 2 cps (Brookfield DV-l+/spindle Stability at RT: No 40C: No No 50C: +5C: No No -5/4OC: F/T: No
3/rpm 100) separation separation separation separation separation separation
after after after after after after
1 month 1 month
1 1 1 5
SOURCE: I C I S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
month month month cycles
352
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
P e p p e r m i n t F o o t Scrub I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Part A: D e i o n i z e d Water Carbomer/Carbopol U l t r e z 10 Acrylates/ClO-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Crosspolymer/ C a r b o p o l ETD 2020 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) Part B: TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e (40%)/Standapol T Propylene Glycol
& 79.00 0.25 0.40 0.16 4.00 2 50 I
Part C: G1 y c e r i ne P e p p e r m i n t (Mentha P i p e r i t a ) O i l P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l ( a n d ) Water ( a n d ) M a t r i c a r i a (Chamornilla R e c u i t a ) E x t r a c t / A c t i p h y t e O f Chamomile P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l ( a n d ) Water ( a n d ) I v y (Hedera H e l i x ) Extract/Actiphyte o f I v y Polyrnethoxy B i c y c l i c O x a d i l i d i n e / N u o s e p t C Part D: Pumice D&C Red No. 3 3 ( 0 . 1 % ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)
2.50 0.10
0 05 I
0.05 0.20
10.00 0.35 0,44
P r o p e r t ies : C o l o r , O d o r , Appearance: L i g h t - r e d pumice s u s p e n s i o n g e l pH: 6 . 3 - 6 . 6 V i s c o s i t y ( c P ) : 18,000-20,000 B r o o k f i e l d Y i e l d V a l u e ( d y n e s / c m 2 ) : 750-850 S t a b i l i t y : Passed f r e e z e / t h a w - 5 c y c l e s Passed h e a t a g i n g - 3 0 days a t 45C Preparation Procedure: 1 . D i s p e r s e C a r b o p o l ETD 2020 and U l t r e z 10 p o l y m e r i n t h e deionized water. Continue s t i r r i n g s l o w l y t o hydrate f o r a b o u t 20 m i n u t e s . 2 . P a r t i a l l y n e u t r a l i z e t h e Carbopol d i s p e r s i o n w i t h TEA i n P a r t A and m i x u n t i l smooth. 3 . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h s l o w , sweep m i x i n g t o a v o i d f o a m i n g . 4 . Pre-combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t C , and add P a r t C t o P a r t s A/B. M i x s l owl y u n t i 1 homogeneous. 5 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t D t o P a r t s A/B/C, i n o r d e r , m i x i n g t h o r o u g h l y between. F i n i s h b y a d d i n g r e m a i n i n g TEA t o n e u t r a l iz e .
SOURCE:
B.F,
Goodrich Co.:
Formulation
COO65
Miscellaneous
Raw Materia& A : M i g l y o l Gel B ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( a n d ) Stearalkonium H e c t o r i t e (and) Propylene Carbonate) I m w i t o r 7B0K ( I s o s t e a r y l D i g l y c e r y l S u c c i n a t e ) I m w i t o r 928 ( G l y c e r y l C o c o a t e ) A b i l WE 09 ( P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( a n d ) C e t y l Dimethicone Copolyol (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ) Oow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d ( D i m e t h i c o n e )
y&o/, 20.0 5.0 4.0 3.0 10.0 2.0 100.0 q.s.
B : Magnesium S u l f a t e Water up t o Preservative
C:
353
Perfume O i l
9,s.
Preparation: " A " i s m i x e d and h e a t e d t o 75-8OC. " B " i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o A . A t a b o u t 30C, " C " i s added. Formula 1.25
______ Silicone
E m u l s i o n . Tvpe O/y
Raw M a t e r i a l s : A : M i g l y o l 812 ( C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ) I m w i t o r 370 ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e C i t r a t e ) I m w i t o r 960K F l a k e s ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e S E ) Dow C o r n i n g 2 0 0 F l u i d ( D i m e t h i c o n e ) B: W a t e r , up t o Preservative C: Perfume O i l
W% 10.0 5.0 5.0 10.0
100.0 q.s. 9,s.
P r e p a r a t ion : " A " i s mixed and h e a t e d t o 75-8OC. " B " i s b r o u g h t t o t h e same t e m p e r a t u r e and e m u l s i f i e d i n t o A . A t a b o u t 30C, "C" i s added. F o r m u l a 1.1K
SOURCE: H u l s A m e r i c a I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
354
Cosmetic and Toiletty Formulations
. S...k i
n Soot h .....i n g ~
~
.O-iin.tme-n-t
Concept S t a t e m e n t : An e m u l s i o n - t y p e o i n t m e n t c o n t a i n i n g S u p e r s a t f o r e m o l l i ence w i t h t h e a n t i - i r r i t a t i o n a t t r i b u t e s o f P a t i o n i c I S L and R i t a l o e 1x. 1-ngredi e n t s : 1. Petrolatum 2. Supersat (Hydrogenated L a n o l i n ) 3. Ritabate-60 (Polysorbate-60) 4 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 5 . P a t i o n i c ISL (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 6 . D i s t i 1 1 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 7 . R i t a l o e 1X ( A l o e V e r a G e l ) 8. Ritapan D (Panthenol) 9 . P r o p y l ene G1 y c o l
Wt%
45.70 8.30 3.50 6.30 1 .70 27.80 2.10 0,40 4.20
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1-5 and h e a t t o 70C. Combine i t e m s 6-9 and h e a t t o 7 0 C . Add t o o i l phase and m i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . N o . 123-13
Cactr !.ate_Ba_sd.-.Ba.Cr.i.er..C_r_e_arn Concept S t a t e m e n t : A r i c h b a r r i e r cream c o n t a i n i n g R i t a p l a s t f o r i t s f i l m f o r m i n g a b i l i t y , and u s i n g P a t i o n i c e m u l s i f i e r s f o r t h e i r added rnoi s t u r i z i ng p r o p e r t i e s .
- : 1. P e t r o l a t u m 2 . R i t a p l a s t ( M i n e r a l O i l and P o l y e t h y l e n e ) 3 . Shebu R e f i n e d (Shea B u t t e r ) 4 . R i t a SSO ( S u n f l o w e r Seed O i l ) 5. R i t a IPP ( I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e ) 6 . P a t i o n i c SBL (Sodium Behenoyl L a c t y l a t e ) 7 . P a t i o n i c CSL ( C a l c i u m S t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 8 . Propyl paraben 9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 10.Methylparaben I
.. n. g r ed ien t s
W.t% 20.00 20 00 10.00 10.00 2.00 3.00 5.00 0.10 29.80 0.10 9
Compounding P r o c e d u r e : Combine i t e m s 1-8 and h e a t t o 7 0 C . Heat i t e m 9 t o 7 0 C and add i t e m 1 0 . Add w a t e r t o o i l phase and m i x u n t i l c o o l . F o r m u l a t i o n R e f . N o . 123-158
SOURCE: R . I . T . A .
Corp.:
Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s
Miscellaneous
S.T.
355
Tonic
Raw M a t e r i a l s : A: Cetyl octanoate P a r s o l MCX Tocopheryl acetate PEG-58 h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l Eldew CL-301 Butylparaben
wto/,
0.3 0.15 0.1 2.0 0.5 0.1
0.2 5.0 0.05 t o make 1 0 0 . 0
B: Methylparaben Butylene g l y c o l Mar indew PC-100 Water Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 80C and ( 8 ) t o 75C. Add ( B ) i n g . Cool down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e .
t o ( A ) w i t h homogeniz-
Features: V e r y m o i s t u r i z i n g and e x c e l l e n t t o u c h . Eldew CL-301 i s an e x c e l l e n t s o l u b i l i z e r f o r V i t a m i n E . No a l c o h o l c o n t a i n e d . F o r m u l a No. EW-3040 S.T.
Tonic
Raw M a t e r i a l s : A: Cetvl octanoate P a r s o l MCX Tocopheryl a c e t a t e PEG-58 h y d r o g e n a t e d c a s t o r o i l E l dew CL-301 B u t y l paraben
B: Methylparaben Butylene g l y c o l A j i d e w N-50 Water
0.3 0.15 0.1 2.0
0.5 0.1 0.2 5.0 5.0 t o make 1 0 0 . 0
Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 8OC and ( B ) t o 75C. Add ( A ) t o ( B ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool down t o room t e m p e r a t u r e . Features: V e r y moi s t u r i z i ng and e m o l l ie n t t o u c h . F o r m u l a No. EW-3050
SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o U . S . A , ,
I n c . : Eldew CL-301 A p p l i c a t i o n s
356
Cosmetic and Toiletry formulations
S t e a r y l Alcohol F o r m u l a t i o n I n s r ed i_e-nrs. : A. Stearyl alcohol Arlamol ISML, i s o s o r b i d monolaurate B r i j 7 2 1 , POE ( 2 1 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 7 2 , PO€ ( 2 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r B . Water Carbomer 934
C . Sodium h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0 % aqueous)
WL % 2.0 3.0 1. I 0.4
92.
a
0.2 0.2
D.
Preservative
0.1
E.
Fragrance
0.2
Suggested P r e p a r a t i o n : H e a t A t o 70C a n d B t o 72C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add C . Add D b e l o w 6 0 C . Add E b e l o w 40C. Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . A s i m i l a r e f f e c t o c c u r s when a r a t i o o f f o u r p a r t s c e t y l a l c o h o l i s u s e d w i t h o n e p a r t of A r l a m o l I S M L e m o l l i e n t as shown i n t h e f o l l o w i n g f o r m u l a .
I ngr_e& e_nt s : A. C e t y l a l c o h o l A r l a m o l ISML, i s o s o r b i d m o n o l a u r a t e B r i ] 7 2 1 , POE ( 2 1 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 7 2 , PO€ ( 2 ) s t e a r y l e t h e r
w t Oh 4.0 1.0 1.3 0.2
92.8 0.2
B.
Water Carbomer 9 3 4
C.
Sod1 urn h y d r o x i d e ( 1 0% a q u e o u s )
0.2
D.
Preservative
0.1
E.
Fragrance
0.2
Suggested P r e p a r a t i o n : H e a t A t o 70C a n d B t o 72C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h m o d e r a t e a g i t a t i o n . Add C . Add D b e l o w 6 0 C . Add E b e l o w 40C. Add w a t e r t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t p H t o 5.5-6.5.
SOURCE: ICI S u r f a c t a n t s : S u g g e s t e d F o r m u l a t i o n s
Miscellaneous
Washable Oil Inqredients: Arlamol S3 Brij 3 0 Arlatone T
%w/w
80.00
10.00 10.00
Procedure: Mix well at room temperature. Formula CP 1111 Washable Oil Inqredients: Arlamol E Atlas G73500
$w/w 50.00 50.00
Procedure: Mix well at room temperature. Fromula CP 1112 Washable Oil Inqredients: Arlamol S3 Isopropyl palmitate Brij 93 Brij 30 Water
%w/w 60.00 30.00 5.00 4.60 0.40
Procedure: Mix well at room temperature Formula CP 1115 Washable Oil Inqredients: A Arlamol E Atlas G73500 B Brij 3 0 C Dow Corning 344 cyclomethicone
%w/w
50.00 25.00 20.00 5.00
Procedure: Mix (B) well. Add (B) to (A) and mix well. Add (C) to (AB) and mix well. Formula CP 1116
SOURCE: ICI Surfactants: Suggested Formulations
357
Section Xlll Trade-Named Raw Materials
Trade-Named Raw Materials
359
R A W MATERIALS Abil AV-20
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION Phenyl trimethicone
SOURCE Goldschmidt
Abil B8839
Cyclomethicone
Goldschmidt
Abil B8851
Dimethicone copolyol
Goldschmidt
Abil B8852
Dimethicone copolyol
Goldschmidt
Abil B9950
Dimethicone Propyl-BG Betaine
Goldschmidt
Abil B88183
Dimethicone copolyol
Goldschmidt
Abil EM-90
Cetyl dimethicone copolyol
Goldschmidt
Abil EM-97
Dimethicone copolyol (and) cyclomethicone
Goldschmidt
Abil OSW 12
Cyclomethicone & dimethicone
Abil Quat 3272
&
dimethiconol
3474 Quaternium-80
&
Goldschmidt Goldschmidt
Stearoxy dimethicone
Goldschmidt
Cetyl dimethicone
Goldschmidt
Abil Wax 9840
Cetyl dimethicone copolyol & polyglyceryl-4 isostearate & hexyl laurate
Goldschmidt
Abil WE 09
Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate & cetyl dimethicone copolyol & hexyl laurate
Goldschmidt
Abil 50
Dimethicone
Goldschmidt
Acetu1an
acetylated i Cetyl acetate € lanolin alcohol
Amer cho1
Acritamer 501E
Carbomer
RITA
Acritamer 940
Carbomer 940
RITA
Abil Wax 2434 Abil Wax 9801
&
9814
Actiphyte of Chamomile Botanical extract, "calming"
ActiveOrg
Actiphyte of Ivy
Botanical extract, "soothing"
ActiveOrg
Acylglutamate CA
Surfactant
Aj inomoto
360
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
Abil AV-20
Phenyl trimethicone
Goldschmidt
Abil B8839
Cyclomethicone
Goldschmidt
Abil B8851
Dimethicone copolyol
Goldschmidt
Abil B8852
Dimethicone copolyol
Goldschmidt
Abil B9950
Dimethicone Propyl-BG Betaine
Goldschmidt
Abil B88183
Dimethicone copolyol
Goldschmidt
Abil EM-90
Cetyl dimethicone copolyol
Goldschmidt
Abil EM-97
Dimethicone copolyol (and) cyclomethicone
Goldschmidt
Abil OSW 12
Cyclomethicone & dimethiconol & dimethicone
Goldschmidt
Abil Quat 3272 & 3474 Quaternium-80
Goldschmidt
Abil Wax 2434
Stearoxy dimethicone
Goldschmidt
Abil Wax 9801 & 9814
Cetyl dimethicone
Goldschmidt
Abil Wax 9840
Cetyl dimethicone copolyol I polyglyceryl-4 isostearate & hexyl laurate
Goldschmidt
Abil WE 09
Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate & cetyl dimethicone copolyol & hexyl laurate
Goldschmidt
Abil 50
Dimethicone
Goldschmidt
Acetulan
Cetyl acetate & acetylated lanolin alcohol
Amerchol
Acritamer 501E
C arbomer
RITA
Acritamer 940
Carbomer 940
RITA
Actiphyte of Chamomile Botanical extract, “calming”
Act iveOrg
Actiphyte of Ivy
Botanical extract, “soothing”
Act iveOrg
Acylglutamate CA
Surfactant
Aj inomoto
Trade-Named Raw Materials
R A W MATERIALS
Ampholyt JB 130K
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION Cocamidopropyl betaine
Antaron WP660
361
SOURCE Huls ISP
Antil 141L
Propylene glycol & PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate
Antil 171
PEG-18 glyceryl oleate/cocoate Goldschmidt
Arlacel 4 0
Sorbitan monopalmitate
ICI
Arlacel 60
Sorbitan monostearate
ICI
Arlacel 83
Sorbitan sesquioleate
ICI
Arlacel 165
Glyceryl stearate stearate
ICI
Arlamol E
PPG-15 stearyl ether
ICI
Arlamol HD
Isohexadecane
ICI
Arlamol M812
Emulsifying agent
ICI
Arlatone 980
PEG-35-hydrogenated castor oil
ICI
Arlatone 2121
Sunscreen agent
ICI
Arosurf 42-E6
Surfactant
Witco
Avanel S-30
Sodium C12-Cl5 pareth-3 sulfonate
PPG
Avanel S-35CG
Sodium octoxynol-2 ethane sulfonate
PPG
Avanel S-15OCGN
Sodium C12-15 pareth-15 sulfonate
PPG
Avanel S-150CG
Sodium C12-15 pareth-15 sulfonate
PPG
&
PEG-100
Goldschmidt
362
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
R A W MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Barley 1-3 Beta Glucam 70% Baysilon M350
SOURCE Keunen
Dimethicone
Bee's Milk
Keunen
Bell Fragrance #J-2820, "Sporty"
Be1 1
Benecel MP943PR
Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose
Aqualon
Bentone Gel VS-5/PC
Rheological agent
Rheox
Bentone Paste SIL
Cyclomethicone & stearalkonium Rheox hectorite & SD alcohol 40
Bentone 38
Rheological agent
Rheox
Bentonite NFBC Whittaker
Bermocel E481 Bienenwachs 8100
Cera alba
Henkel
Biocare Polymer BHA-10 Substantive hyaluronic acid
Biomatrix
Bio-Terge AS-40
Alpha olefin sulfonate
Stepan
Brij 72
Steareth-2
ICI
Brij 97
Oleth-10
ICI
Brij 721
Steareth-21
ICI
Brooksome EPO
Lecithin & evening primrose oil Brooks moisturizer
Butyl Cellosolve
Solvent
Candelilla Wax
Union Carb
Keunen
Capmul 10G-10-0
Polyglyceryl-10 decaoleate Dispersant/emulsifier
Karlshamms
Carbopol 934
Carbomer 934
BFGoodrich
Carbopol 940
Carbomer 940
BFGoodrich
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
363
SOURCE
Carbopol 941
Carbomer 941
BFGoodrich
Carbopol 954
Carbomer 954
BFGoodrich
Carbopol 980
Carbomer 980
BFGoodrich
Carbopol 981
Carbomer 981
BFGoodrich
Carbopol 1342
Carbomer 1342
BFGoodrich
Carbopol 2984
Carbomer 2984
BFGoodrich
Carbopol 5984
Carbomer 5984
BFGoodrich
Carbopol ETD 2001
Carbomer
BFGoodrich
Carbopol ETD 2020
Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer. Preservative BFGoodrich
Carbopol Ultrez 10
Carbomer thickener
BFGoodrich
Carbowax E-800
PEG-150
Union Carb
Carbowax 600
PEG 600. Lubricant
Union Carb
Carnauba #1 Ye 1 ow
Keunen
Carnauba Wax
Keunen
Carson01 SLES-2
Sodium laureth sulfate
Cartaretin F-4
Diethylenetriamine copolymer
Castor oil
Ricinus communis
Cara Bellina
PG-3 beeswax
Keunen
Ceraphyl 230
Emollient
ISP/Van
Ceraphyl 424
Myristyl myristate emollient
ISP/Van
Cerasynt IP
Emulsifier
ISP/Van
Cerasynt SD
Glyceryl stearate emulsifier
ISP/Van
Clariant
Ceresine 130/135 Wax
Keunen
Ceresine 140/150 Wax
Keunen
364
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
R A W MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
Cetiol
Oleyl oleate
Henkel
Cetiol B
Emollient esters
Henkel
Cetiol HE
PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate
Henkel
Cetiol 5600
Oleyl erucate
Henkel
Cetiol LC
Coco-caprylate/caprate
Henkel
Cetiol OE
Dicaprylyl ether
Henkel
Cetiol PGL
Emollient esters
Henkel
Cetiol SB 45
Shea butter
Henkel
Cetiol SN
Cetearyl isononanoate
Henkel
Cetiol V
Decyl oleate
Henkel
Cetiol 868
Octyl stearate emollient
Henkel
CO-1695
Cetyl alcohol
CO-1895
Stearyl alcohol
COCO Soap (85-15)
Tallow
Collapuron DAK
Desamidocollagen
Comperlan KD
Cocarnide DEA
Henkel Lip0
Completech MBAC-DS Controx KS Copherol F1250
Tocopheryl acetate
Henkel
Copherol F1300
Tocopherol
Henkel
Copherol 1250
Tocopherol
Henkel
Cosmedia Guar C-261
Guar gum
Henkel
Cosmedia Guar C-261N
Guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride
Henkel
Cosmedia Polymer HSP-1180
Henkel
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
365
SOURCE
Cosmetic Brown 3277/1985/1654 Cosmowax
Croda
Cremerol HMG
Hydroxylated milk glycerides
Amerchol
Cremophor HMG
PEG-35 castor oil
BASF
Crex
Sodium sesquicarbonate
Crodamol MM
Myristyl myristate
Croda
Crovol A/Crovol A-40
PEG-20 almond glycerides
Croda
Crovol PK-70
PEG-45 palm kernel glycerides
Croda
Cutina CP
Cetyl palmitate
CLRichter
Dow Dow Dow Dow
Corning Corning Corning Corning
200 Fluid Dimethicone
DowCorn
200 Fluid, 100 cs 200 Fluid, 350 cs 200 Fluid, 5000 cs
DC 344 Fluid
Cyclomethicone
DowCorn
DC 345 Fluid
Polydimethylcyclosiloxane
DowCorn
Degussa R812
Silica
Degussa
Dehymuls E
Mixed ester emulsifier
Henkel
Dehymuls PGPH
Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate
Henkel
Dehyton AB30
Coco-betaine
Henkel
Dehyton G
Disodium cocoamphodiacetate
Henkel
Dehyton K
Cocamidopropyl betaine
Henkel Keunen
Deodorized Orange Wax Deosafe Perfume 75428 N/I Dermacare MS SE DeSonic LFD-97
Glyceryl monostearate
RhonePoul Witco
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
366
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTIION
Witco
DeSonic 5N Diaformer Diaformer Diaformer Diaformer Diaformer Diaformer
Z-A & 2-AT Z-SM Z-W 2-301 2-400
Diahold A-503
Methacrylol ethyl betaine/ Methacrylates copolymer
Clari ant
AMP-Acrylates copolymer
C 1ar iant HoffmanLaRo
DL Panthenol D-
-
SOURCE
Tocopherol Acetate: Tocopheryl acetate
DNS Completech MBAC-EA
Lip0
Dowanol DPM
Solvent
Dow
Dow Corning 92-5324 Fluid
Dimethicone copolyol moisturizer/lubricant
DowCorn
Dow Corning 190
Dimethicone copolyol
DowCorn
&
EB
Dow Corning 556 Fluid Phenyl trimethicone Dow
Corning 3225 C Fluid
Dowicil 200 Drakeol 9
&
21
DowCorn DowCorn
Quaternium-15
Dow
Mineral oil
Penreco
"Drakkar" Type #Fl0091513 Fragrance
Haarman
Drivosol 35
Propane, isopropane, butane
Huls
Dynacerin 660
Oleyl erucate
Creanova
Eldew CL-301
Cholesteryl/behenyl/lactyldodecyl/lauroyl glutamate
A j inomoto
Elfacos C26
Hydroxyoctacosanyl/hydroxy-
Gallard-
stearate Elfacos E200
Methoxy PEG-22/Dodecyl glycol cop01ymer
Elfacos ST9
PEG-45/Dodecyl glycol copolymer Gallard-
Gallard-
Trade-Named Raw Materials
367
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Elfugin AKT liq 300
Sodium C13-15 pareth-8 butyl phosphate & sodium C13-15 pareth-9 phosphate
C lariant
Emalex CC-168
Cetyl octanoate
A j inomoto
Emalex GM-5
POE (5) glyceryl monostearate
A j inomoto
Emalex GWIS-310
PEG-10 glyceryl triisostearate
A j inomoto
Emalex GWIS-320
PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate A j inomoto
Emalex HC-5
POE (5) hydrogenated castor oil A j inomoto
SOURCE
Emalex OD-25 35
A j inomoto
Emalex O.T.G.
A j inomoto
Emalex STG-R
Hydrogenated coco-glycerides
A j inomoto
Emcol DG
Surfactant
Witco
Emcol 4100M
Surfactant
Witco
EmCon Limnathes Alba
Meadowfoam seed oil
Fanning
EmCon Tea Tree
Tea tree oil, active
Fanning
Emerest 2355
Ethylene glycol distearate
Henkel
Emersol 132
Triple pressed stearic acid
Henkel
Emersol 213
Low titer oleic acid ( A V : 203)
Henkel
Emersol 221
Oleic acid (acid value: 203)
Henkel
Emery 531
Fatty acid
Henkel
Emery 610
Soya fatty acid
Henkel
Emery 621
Coconut fatty acid (av: 263)
Henkel
Emulgade PL 68/50
Cetearyl glucoside & cetearyl alcohol
Henkel
Emulgade SE
Cream base w/o
Henkel
Emulgator E2155
Stearyl alcohol, steareth-7, steareth-10
Goldschmidt
368
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE Keunen
Emulsifying Wax NF Escalol 507
Octyl dimethyl PABA
Esi-Cry1 11
Styrene-acrylic copolymer
Eumulgin BZ
Ceteareth-20
Henkel
Eumulgin VL 75
Cosmetic emulsifier o/w
Henkel
Eumulgin 286
Cosmetic emulsifier o/w
Henkel
Euperlan PK-810
Pearlshine concentrate
Henkel
Euperlan PK 3000-AM
Glycol distearate, laureth-4, cocamidopropyl betaine
Henkel
Eusolex OCR
Octocrylene
RonaEM
Eusolex T-2000
Micron. titanium dioxide
RonaEM
Eusoflex 232
Phenylbezimidazole sulfonic acid RonaEM
Eusolex 6007
Octyl dimethyl PABA
RonaEM
Eusolex 6300
4-Methylbenzylidene
RonaEM
Eusolex 9020
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane
RonaEM
Eutanol G
Octyldodecanol
Henkel
Extrapon Chamomile Special
ISP/Van
Dragoco
Finester EH-25
C12-15 octanoate
Finsolv EMG-20
Methyl gluceth-20 benzoate. Emollient
Finetex
Finsolv TN
C12-15 alcohols benzoate. Emo 11ient
Finetex
Flora 91-2008
Fragrance
Fragrance #A41073
Spicy floral fragrance
Fragrance #A42017
Fruity floral fragrance
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS Fragrance # 9918 9
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
Tw iste r'I
Drom
Fragrance #5-7020, Sporty
Drom
Fruity Floral Scent NY-16 Fragrance
Novarone
"
369
G-2330 Gelita Sol C
Hydrolyzed collagen
Hoechst
Genagen CAB
Cocamidopropyl betaine
Hoechst
Genapol AMG
Magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate Hoechst
Genapol L-3
Laureth-3
Hoechst
Genapol LRO Liquid
Sodium laureth sulfate
Hoechst
Genapol PMS
Glycol distearate
Hoechst
Genapol 122N
Soya sterol
Henkel
Cosmetic preservative
ISP/Sutton
Germall 115
Imidazoldiinyl urea
ISP/Sutton
Gluadin WQ
Laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein
Glucam E-10
Methyl gluceth-10
Amercho1
Glucam E-20
Methyl gluceth-20
Amer cho1
Glucam P-10
PPG-10 methyl glucose ether
Amerchol
Glucamate DOE-120
PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate Amerchol
Glucamate SSE-20
PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate
Amerchol
Glucate SS
Methyl glucose sesquistearate
Amerchol
Glucquat 125
Lauryl methyl gluceth-10 Amercho1 hydroxypropyldimonium chloride
Germaben I1
&
IIE
Glycerol Monostearate
Keunen
370
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS Fragrance # 9918 9
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION "
Twi ster "
SOURCE Drom
Fragrance #J-7820, Sporty
Drom
Fruity Floral Scent NY-16 Fragrance
Novarone
G-2330 Gelita Sol C
Hydrolyzed collagen
Hoechst
Genagen CAB
Cocamidopropyl betaine
Hoechst
Genapol AMG
Magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate Hoechst
Genapol L-3
Laureth-3
Hoechst
Genapol LRO Liquid
Sodium laureth sulfate
Hoechst
Genapol PMS
Glycol distearate
Hoechst
Genapol 122N
Soya sterol
Henkel
Cosmetic preservative
ISP/Sutton
Germall 115
Imidazoldiinyl urea
ISP/Sutton
Gluadin WQ
Laurdimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein
Glucam E-10
Methyl gluceth-10
Amer cho1
Glucam E-20
Methyl gluceth-20
Amer cho1
Glucam P-10
PPG-10 methyl glucose ether
Amer cho1
Glucamate DOE-120
PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate Amerchol
Glucamate SSE-20
PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate
Amerchol
Glucate SS
Methyl glucose sesquistearate
Amerchol
Glucquat 125
Lauryl methyl gluceth-10 Amerchol hydroxypropyldimonium chloride
Germaben I1
&
IIE
Glycerol Monostearate
Keunen
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS Hydrotriticum QM
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION Hair conditioner
Hydroxy Polyester
371
SOURCE Croda Keunen
Hypan SA-100H
Hydrogel
Lip0
Hampene Na3T
Trisodium EDTA
Hampshire
Hylacure Hystar CG
Hydrogenated starch hydrolysate Lonza
Hystrene 5016
Stearic acid (triple pressed)
Witco
Imwitor 370
Glyceryl stearate citrate
Creanova
Imwitor 375
Glyceryl citrate/lactate/ linoleate/oleate
Creanova
Imwitor 380
Glyceryl cocoate/citrate/lactate Creanova
Imwitor 780K
Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate Creanova
Imwitor 900
Glyceryl stearate
Creanova
Imwitor 928
Glyceryl cocoate
Creanova
Imwitor 960K
Glyceryl stearate SE
Creanova
Incronam 30
Cocamidopropyl betaine
Croda
Insect Repellent 3535 Ethyl butyl acetylamino propionate
MGK
Isolan GI 34
Goldschmidt
Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate
Bell
59262 Fragrance Jaguar C13S
Guar gum
Jojoba Oil
Jojoba (buxus chinensis) oil
RhonePoul
372
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
Jordapon ACI-30G
Ammonium cocoyl isethionate
PPG
Jordapon CI Powder
Sodium cocoyl isethionate
PPG
Jordapon CI-UP
Sodium cocoyl isethionate
PPG
Jordapon CI-60
Sodium cocoyl isethionate (and) stearic acid
PPG
Jordapon CI-75
Sodium cocoyl isethionate (and) steraic acid
PPG
Keunen
K80-D22 Karion F Liquid
Sorbitol solution (70%)
E .Merck
Kathon CG
Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone
Rohm&Haas
Kaydol
Mineral Oil USP
Witco
Kelco
Xanthan gum
Kelco
Keltrol
Xanthan gum
Ke 1co
Keltrol F
Xanthan gum
Kelco
Kelzan
Xanthan gum
Ke 1co
Kemester EGDS Kemester 99.7%
Glycerin
Kerasol
Soluble animal keratin
Croda
Kessco PEG-6000
PEG-150 distearate
Stepan
Kester Wax K-48
Spermaceti
Keunen
Kester Wax-62
Keunen
Kukui Nut Oil
Oils Aloha
Kydol
Paraffin oil
Witco
Kytamer PC
Chitosan PC
Amercho1
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
Lactil
Sodium lactate glycine L . . . . .
Lameform TGI
Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate
Lamesoft PO 65
Coco-glucoside & glyceryl oleate
Henkel
Lamesoft PW 25
Cetyl palmitate & beheneth-10 & hydrogenated castor oil & glyceryl stearate
Henkel
&
sodium PCA
373
&
Goldschmidt
Lamesoft PW 45
Henkel
Lanapene
Lanaetex
Lanette 0
Cetearyl alcohol
Henkel Henke1
Lanette 18 Lanoquat 50 Lantrol AWS 1692
PPG-12 PEG-65 lanolin oil
Henkel
Lauramide DEA Lavender Fleurs 40/42 Lavender oil Lexein QX-300
Hydrolyzed animal protein
Inolex
Lexol IPM
Isopropyl myristate
Inolex
Lexol IPP
Isopropyl palmitate
Inolex
Lipamide MEAA (75%)
Acetamide MEA
L ipo
Lipocol C
Cetyl alcohol
Lip0
Lipocol L-4
Laureth-4
Lip0
Lip0 GMS-450
Glyceryl stearate
Lip0
Lipolan R
Lanolin oil
Lip0
Lipomulse 165
Glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate
Lip0
Liponate IPM
Isopropyl myristate
Lip0
374
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
Liponate IPP
Isopropyl palmitate
1ip0
Liponate NPGC-2
Neopentylglycol dicaprylate/ dicaprate
1ip0
Liponate TDTM
Tridecyl trimellitate
11p0
Liponate 2-DH
PEG-4 diheptanoate
11p0
Liponic EG-1
Glycereth-26
11p0
Lipopeg 2-DL
PEG-4 dilaurate
11p0
Lipopeg 4-DL
PEG-8 dilaurate
11p0
Lipopeg 4-5
PEG-8 stearate
11p0
Lipopeg 6000-DS
PEG-150 distearate
11p0
LipoPearls
White beads w/ vitamin E
11p0
Liposilt Green
Silt
11p0
Lip0 Stearic Acid
11p0
Liposurf EST-30
Sodium laureth sulfate
11p0
Lipovol ALM
Sweet almond oil
11p0
Lipovol CO
Castor oil
11p0
Lipovol MOS-70
Natural vegetable oil
11p0
Lipovol MOS-130
Natural vegetable oil
11p0
Lipovol SES
Sesame oil
11p0
Lipowax P
Emulsifying wax, NF
11p0
Liquapar
Preservative
ISP/Sutton
Locron L
&
P
Aluminum chlorohydrate
Lonzaine C
Cocamidopropyl betaine
Lotion 4047
Fragrance
Lubragel MS
Lonza
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
375
SOURCE
Lunacera M
Mi crowax
HBFuller
Luviskol K90 Powder
PVP (100%). Hair setting agent
BASF
Luviskol VA-73W
PVP/VA copolymer (509,)
BASF
Luvitol EHO
Cetearyl octanoate
BASF
Oi lsAloha
Macademia Nut Oil Mackamide AME
Acetamide MEA. Humectant
Mc Intyre
Mackanate DC-30
Disodium dimethicone copolyol sulfosuccinate surfactant
McIntyre
Mackanate EL
Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate McIntyre secondary surfactant
Macol CA-30P
PPG-30 cetyl ether
PPG
Macol CSA-20
Ceteareth-20
PPG
Macol NP-9.5
Nonoxynol-9
PPG
Macol 57
PPG-10 butanediol
PPG
Macol 124
Cetearyl alcohol & ceteareth-20 PPG
Macol 159
PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate
PPG
Mafo CAB
Cocamidopropyl betaine
PPG
Mafo CSB-50
Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine
PPG
Magnabrite HV
Stabilizing, suspending agent
AMColloid
Maltrin M-100
Maltodextrin
GrainProces
Mandelo1
Almond oil
Mapeg EGMS
Glycol stearate
PPG
Mapeg 400 DO
PEG-8 dioleate
PPG
Mapeg 6 0 0 0 DS
PEG-150 distearate
PPG
Marindew PC-100
Partially deacetylated chitin
Ajinomoto
376
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
Marlipal 1618/25
Ceteareth-25
Huls
Marlowet TA 6
Ceteareth-6
Huls
Marlowet TA 25
Ceteareth-25
Huls
Masil SF-V
Cyclomethicone
PPG
Masil SF-100
Dimethicone
PPG
Masil SF-756
Phenyl trimethicone
PPG
Masil SF-1000
Dimethicone
PPG
Mazamide JT-128
Cocamide DEA
PPG
Mazamide SS-10
Soyamide DEA
PPG
Mazamide 80
Cocamide DEA
PPG
Mazeen 174
PPG-4 ethylene diamine
PPG
Mazol EE-1
Benzyl laurate
PPG
Mazon 159
PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate
PPG
Mazox CAPA
Cocamidopropyl amine oxide
PPG
Mazox LDA
Lauramine oxide
PPG
Merquat Plus 3330
Polyquaternium-39. Hair conditioner
Calgon
Polyquaternium-7
Calgon
Merquat 550 Methocel A4M & E4M E4M Premium EP & KllOLV & 40-100
&
Hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose Dow
Microcrystalline Wax
Keunen
Miglyol Gel B
Caprylic/capric triglyceride stearalkonium hectorite & propylene carbonate
Miglyol 812
Caprylic/capric triglyceride
&
Creanova
Creanova
Trade-Named Raw Materials
377
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
Miglyol 829
Caprylic/capric/succinic triglyceride
Creanova
Miglyol 840
Propylene glycol dicaprylatel d icaprate
Creanova
Mineral Colloid BP
Montmorillonite
ECCAmerica PrideSolven
Minosil Miracare ZMCAS
Cocoamphodiacetate & sodium lauryl sulfate & sodium....
RhonePoul
Miranol Ultra
Cocoamphoacetate (32%). Surfactant
RhonePoul
Moisturizing Phytoamine Biocomplex
Comfrey extract & plaintain extract & hydrolyzed wheat protein & amino acids
AlbanMuller
Monafax MAP160
Phosphate ester
Mona
Monafax MAP230
Phosphate ester
Mona
Monalac MAB
Mona
Monalac ML
Mona
Monalac MO
Mona
Monalac MPL
Mona
Monamid CMA
Cocamide MEA
Mona
Monamid 716
Lauramide DEA
Mona
Monamuls 60-35C
Hydrogenated palm glycerides
Mona
Monamuls 90 L 12
Glyceryl laurate
Mona
Monamuls 90-018
Glyceryl oleate
Mona
Monaquat ISIES
Quaternary compound
Mona Mona
Monaquat SL-5 Monaquat TG
Quaternary phospholipid
Mona
378
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
RAW MATERIALS
SOURCE
Monasil PCA
Mona
Monasil PDM
Mona
Monasil PLN
Mona
Monateric CAB
Cocamidopropyl betaine
Mona Mona
Monaterge 7 7 9 Monateric CAB-LC
Cocamidopropyl betaine
Mona Mona
Monateric CLV Monateric COAB
Cocamidopropyl betaine
Mona
Monateric LMAB
Lauramidopropyl betaine
Mona Mona
Monateric 9 4 9 5 Propylene glycol dicaprylate/ dicaprate
Myritol PC Myritol 312
&
318
Myritol 331 Myrj 5 2
& 52s
Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Henkel
Cocoglycerides
Henkel
PEG-40 Stearate
ICI
Water
Natipide I1
&
alcohol
&
lecithin
Natterman
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Aqualon
Natrosol Plus 330 CS
Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose
Aqualon
Neobee M-5
Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Stepan
Neodol 25-38
Sodium C12-15 pareth sulfate
Shell
Natrosol 250HHR 250HR
&
Neo Heliopan, Type AV Octyl methoxycinnamate
Haarman&
Neo Heliopan BB
Benzophenone-3 sunscreen
Haarman&
Neo Heliopan El000
Isoamyl p-methoxycinnmate
Haarman&
Trade-Named R A W MATERIALS
Raw Materials
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
Neo Heliopan, Type 0 s Octyl salicylate sunscreen
Haarman&
Neutrol TE
BASF
Tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine
NF White Beeswax
Keunen Cationic guar
N-Hance 3000
Aqualon
Nikkol Lecinol S-10-M
Barnet
Nimlesterol D
Mineral oil
Nimlesterol 1732
Mineral oil
Ninol LMP
Alkanolamide
Stepan
Ninol 2012 Extra
Alkanolamide
Stepan
Novarome NC-46
&
379
Malmstrom &
lanolin alcohol
NC-48Fragrances
Henkel
Novarome
Novata AB
COCO glycerides
Nuosept C
Polymethoxy bicyclic oxazolidone Huls
Nutralin I
Collagen
Oil of Mink
AAA
Refined
Orange Wax
CLRichter
Henkel
Emulan Keunen
Orgasol 2002D
Nylon-12
Lip0
Oxynex K Liquid
PEG-8 & tocopherol & ascorbyl palmitate & ascorbic acid & citric acid
Zs chimmer
Oxynex LM
Antioxidant
Zschimmer
Oxynex 2004
Antioxidant
Zschimmer
Oxybenzone
Keunen
Oyster Nut Oil Ozokerite 158/160
&
160/164
&
170
Keunen
380
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
Panacete 810
Vegetable oil
Panalene L-14E
Hydrogenated polyisobutene
Amoco
Paraffin Oil Liquid
Mineral oil
Merck
Paraffin Wax 130/135
Keunen
Paraffin Wax 160/165
Keunen
Parsol MCX
Octyl methoxycinnamate
Givaudan
Parsol 1789
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane
Givaudan
Pationic CSL
Calcium stearoyl lactylate
RITA
Pationic ISL
Sodium isostearoyl lactylate
RITA
Pationic SBL
Sodium behenoyl lactylate
RITA
Pationic SCL
Sodium cocoyl lactylate
RITA
Pationic SSL
Sodium stearoyl lactylate
RITA
Patlac LA
Lactic acid
RITA
PEG-150 Distearate PEG-1450
UnionCarb
Pemulen TR-1
Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate BFGoodrich
Pemulen TR-2
Acrylates/ClO-30 alkyl acrylate BFGoodrich crosspolymer/Emulsifier
Peppermint (Mentha Piperita) Oil
Technology
Peppermint Oil, Refined
Technology
Perfecta
Petrolatum
Witco
Perfume A10003E
Fragrance
Perfume "Olivia" Perfume 72979 Perlatum 410CG
Petrolatum
S&S
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
381
SOURCE
Permethyl 104A
Aliphatic hydrocarbon
Presperse
Permulgin D
Emulsifying wax
Keunen
Permulgin 2550
Beeswax (Cera alba)
Keunen
Petro LBA Liquid
Witco
Petro BAF Liquid
Witco
Petro LBA Powder
Witco
Phenonip
Liquid preservative system
Nipa
Phospholipid EFA
Hair conditioner
Mona
Phospholipid PTC
&
SV Biomimetric phospholipid
Mona
Phytodermin
Soybean (glycine soya) protein
Plantacare K55
Lauryl glucoside propyl betaine
Plantacare PS 10
Sodium laureth sulfate lauryl glucoside
Plantacare 1200 UP
Lauryl glucoside
Plantaren PS-100
Surfactant
Henkel
Plantaren 1200
Lauryl glucoside
Henkel
Plantaren 2000
Decyl polyglucose (50%)
Henkel
Plantaren 2000 UP
Lauryl glucose
Henkel
&
cocamido&
"Polo Sport" Type #A11518 Fragrance
Haarman&
Polyethylene AC-9A
Allied
Polyethylene Glycol 400: PEG-8 Polyethylene Glycol 1500: PEG-30 Polymer JR-30M
Polyquaternium-10
UnionCarb
Polymer JR-125
Polyquaternium-10
UnionCarb
382
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
POlyOX WSR N-3000
PEG-14M
UnionCarb
Polyquta 400
Polyquaternium-10
RITA
Polysynlane
Hydrogenated polyisobutene
Polyesther
Pricerine 9083
Glycerin
Unichema
Prisorine 2021
Isopropyl isostearate
Uni chema
Prodew 100
Sorbitol/sodium lactate/proline/sodium PCA/hydrolyzed collagen
Aj inomoto
Prodew 200
Aj inomoto
Prodew 400
Aj inomoto
Product SE-100
Glyceryl stearate stearate
Promois Milk
Hydrolyzed casein
RITA
Promois Silk-1000
Hydrolyzed silk
RITA
Promulgen D
Cetearyl alcohol/ceteareth-20
Amercho1
&
PEG-100
Promulgen DD
Heterene
Amerchol
Promyristyl PM-3
PPG-3 myristyl ether
Croda
Propal
Isopropyl palmitate
Amercho1
Propanediol-1,2
Propylene glycol
Protasorb
Polysorbate 20. Lubricant
Protectan
Lactococcus ferment lysate
Pyroter CPI-40
PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil PCA isostearate
Pyroter CPI-60 Pyroter GPI-25
Protameen
Aj inomoto Aj inomoto
Glycereth-25 PCA isostearate
Aj inomoto
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
383
SOURCE
Raffermine
Hydrolyzed soy flour
RITA
Reach AZP-902
Antiperspirant
Reheis
Reach AZP-908 SUF
Antiperspirant
Reheis
Reach 103
Antiperspirant
Reheis
Reductine
Oat protein
RITA
Rewopal PIB 1000
Polyisobutene
Witco
Rewoteric AM B-14
Cocamidopropyl betaine
Witco
Rewoteric AM B-15
Cocamidopropyl betaine
Witco
Rewoteric AM DML-35
Cocamidopropyl betaine
Witco
Rewoteric AM TEG
Witco
Rewoteric AM 2CW
Witco
Rhodapon L-22
Ammonium lauryl sulfate
RhonePoul
Rhodapon 201-10
Sodium laureth sulfate, 6 0 %
RhonePoul
Rhodigel
Xanthan gum
RTVanderbil
Rice Bran Oil
Keunen
Ri tabate-20
Polysorbate-20
RITA
Ritabate-60
Polysorbate-60
RITA
Rita CA
Cetyl alcohol
RITA
Rita Cetearyl Alcohol 50/50
RITA
Ritacetyl Alcohol
Cetearyl alcohol
RITA
Ritachol
Mineral oil
RITA
Rita EGMS
Glycol stearate
RITA
Rita GMS
Glyceryl stearate
RITA
Rita HA C-1-C
Sodium hyaluronate
RITA
&
lanolin alcohol
384
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
Rita IPP
Isopropyl palmitate
RITA
Ri talan
Lanolin oil
RITA
Ritaloe 1X
Aloe Vera gel
RITA
Ritamide C
Cocamide DEA
RITA
Ritapan D
d-Panthenol
RITA
Ritapan DL
dL-Panthenol
RITA
Ritapeg 150 DS
PEG-150 distearate
RITA
Rita PEO-3
PEG-23M
RITA
Ri tap1ast
Mineral oil
Rita SA
Stearyl alcohol
RITA
Ritasil 190
Dimethicone copolyol
RITA
Rita SSO
Sunflower seed oil
RITA
Ri tataine
Cocamidopropyl betaine
RITA
Ritataine B
Cocamidopropyl betaine
RITA
Ritavena-5
Hydrolyzed oat flour
RITA
Ritawax ALA
Cetyl acetate & acetylated lanolin alcohol
RITA
Rovisome C
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate & lecithin
RITA
Sachtotec LA10
Zinc oxide
Sachtelben
Sandobet SC Liquid
Cocamido propyl hydroxysultaine Clariant
Sandobet DTC Acid
Trideceth-7 carboxylic acid
Clariant
Sandopan ES-50
Sodium myreth sulfate
C lariant
Sandopan KST-A Sol d
Sodium ceteth-13 carboxylate
Clariant
&
polyethylene
RITA
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
385
SOURCE
Sandopan LS-24 Gel
Sodium laureth-13 carboxylate
C 1ariant
Sandoxylate SX-424
PPG-2-isodeceth-12
C 1ar iant
Schercomid SLS
Soyamide DEA
C 1ar iant
Serdolamide PPF 67
Cocamide DEA
Huls
Setacin 103
Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate Zschimmer
Shebu Refined
Shea butter
Silicone 245 & 345 & 556 Siliconyl Beeswax
Dimethicone copolyol beeswax
Silkol P55
Mineral oil
RITA DowCorning Keunen
Silk Powder Silwax WS
Dimethicone copolyol wax
Siltech
S-Maz 20/S-Maz 60
Sorbitan stearate
PPG
Softigen I01
Glyceryl ricinoleate
Creanova
Softigen 761
PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides Creanova
Softisan Gel
Complex of chemicals
Creanova
Softisan 100
Hydrogenated coco-glycerides
Creanova
Softisan 318
Caprylic/capric/stearic triglyceride
Creanova
Softisan 601
Glyceryl cocoate/hydrogenated coconut oil/ceteareth-25
Creanova
Softisan 645
Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate- Creanova 2
Softisan 6 4 9
Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 Creanova Amerchol
Solulan C-24 Solulan 5
Laneth-5/ceteth-5/oleth-5/ steareth-5
h e r cho1
386
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS Solvent ID
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
Isododecane
Sorbitol F Liquid Sorbo
Sorbitol solution
Spicy Floral Fragrance #A41073
ICI Haarman
Squa1ane Standamid KD
Cocamide DEA
Henkel
Standamid LD
Lauramide DEA
Henkel
Standapol A
Ammonium lauryl sulfate
Henkel
Standapol EA-1
Alkyl sulfate
Henkel
Standapol EA-2
Alkyl sulfate
Henkel
Standapol ES-2
Sodium laureth sulfate
Henkel
Standapol ES-3
Sodium laureth sulfate (30%)
Henkel
Standapol ES-50
Sodium myreth sulfate
Henkel
Standapol ES-250
Sodium laureth sulfate (53%)
Henkel
Standapol T
TEA lauryl sulfate (40%)
Henkel
Standapol WAQ-LC
Sodium lauryl sulfate (29%)
Henkel
Stepanol AM
Ammonium lauryl sulfate
Stepan
Stepanol WA-Extra
Sodium lauryl sulfate
Stepan
Stepanol WAT
TEA lauryl sulfate
Stepan
Super Hartolan
Lanolin alcohol
Croda
Standamox
Super Refined Apricot Kernel Oil
Croda
Supersat
Hydrogenated lanolin
RITA
Surfactol Q1
Hair conditioner
CasChem
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS Suttocide A
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION Neutralizer/preservative
387
SOURCE Sutton
Synthetic Candelilla Wax
Keunen
Synthetic Carnauba
Wax
Keunen
Tagat L
PEG-20 glyceryl cocoate
Goldschmidt
Tagat S2
PEG-20 glyceryl stearate
Goldschmidt
Tagat TO
PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate
Goldschmidt
Talc Supra A
Premium talc
RITA
Teginacid H
Glyceryl stearate/ceteth-20
Goldschmidt
Tegin EGS
Glycol distearate
Goldschmidt
Tegin M
Glyceryl stearate
Goldschmidt
Tegin P
Organic emulsifier
Goldschmidt
Tego Alkanol 16
Cetyl alcohol
Goldschmidt
Tego Alkanol 18
Stearyl alcohol
Goldschmidt
Tego Betaine 810
Caprylamido/capramidopropyl
Goldschmidt
betaine Tego Betaine E
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Goldschmidt
Tego Betaine F
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Goldschmidt
Tego Betaine F50
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Goldschmidt
Tego Betaine L-7
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Goldschmidt
Tego Care 215
Ceteareth-l5/Glycery1 stearate Goldschmidt
Tego Care 450
Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate
Goldschmidt
Tego Deo HY 77
Zinc ricinoleate/triethanolamine/dipropylene glycol/ lactic acid
Goldschmidt
388
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
Tego Glucoside 1216
Lauryl glucoside
Goldschmidt
Tego Pearl NlOO
Glycol distearate/steareth-4
Goldschmidt
Tegosoft CI
Cetearyl isononanoate
Goldschmidt
Tegosoft CO
Cetyl octanoate
Goldschmidt
Tegosoft CT
Caprylic/capric triglycerides
Goldschmidt
Tegosoft DO
Decyl oleate
Goldschmidt
Tegosoft GC
PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate
Goldschmidt
Tegosoft GMC 6
PEG-6 caprylic/capric glyceride Goldschmidt
Tegosoft Liquid
Cetearyl octanoate
Goldschmidt
Tegosoft LSE 65K
Sucrose cocoate
Goldschmidt
Tegosoft M
Isopropyl myristate
Goldschmidt
Tegosoft OP
Octyl palmitate
Goldschmidt
Tegosoft 0s
Octyl stearate
Goldschmidt
Tegosoft P
Isopropyl palmitate
Goldschmidt
Tegosoft SH
Stearyl heptanoate
Goldschmidt
Tenox 6
Antioxidant
Eastman
Tensine
Wheat protein
Henkel
Texapon A
Ammonium lauryl sulfate
Henkel
Texapon NA
Ammonium laureth sulfate
Henkel
Texapon NSO
Sodium laureth sulfate
Henkel
Texapon SB-3
Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate Henkel
Texapon SG
Sodium laureth sulfate/cocamide Henkel MEA/glycol distearate
Texapon WW 99
MIPA laureth sulfate/cocamide DEA
Henkel
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
389
SOURCE
Th iosome Timica
Mica and titanium dioxide
Mearl
Timiron MP-149
Mica and titanium dioxide
Rona
Timiron MP-1001 Supersheen
Mica and titanium dioxide
Rona
Timiron Silk Red
Mica and titanium dioxide
Rona
Tioveil OP
Octyl palmitate and titanium dioxide
Tioxide
Ti tanox
Titanium dioxide
T-Maz 20
Polysorbate 20
PPG
T-Maz 28
PEG-80 sorbitan laurate
PPG
T-Maz 60
Polysorbate 60
PPG
T-Maz 80
Polysorbate 80
PPG
Transcutol
Specialty solvent
Gattefosse
Traubeukernol
Vitis vinifera
Tri closan Tris(hydroxymethy1)-aminomethane
Tritiplex I11
Disodium EDTA
Tween 20
Polysorbate 20 lubricant
ICI
Tween 60
Polysorbate 60
ICI
Tween 85
Polysorbate 8 5
ICI
Tylose Tylose Tylose tylose
Hydroxyethyl cellulose
Hoechst
H 4000P H 100,OOOYP H20 YP 100,000
390
Cosmetic and Toiletry Fofmu/ations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
Ucare Polymer JR-30M
Polyquaternium-10
Ame r cho1
Ucare Polymer JR-125
Polyquaternium-10
Amer chol
Ucare Polymer JR-400
Polyquaternium-10
Amercho1
Ucare Polymer LK
Polyquaternium-10
Amer chol UnionCarb
Ucon Fluid AP Ucon 50-HB-660
PPG-12-Buteth-16
UnionCarb
Ultra Lantrol HP 2074 Lanolin oil Ultrapure L
White petrolatum USP
Ultra
Unicide U-13
Imidazolidinyl urea
Lip0
Uniphen P-23
Phenoxyethanol/methylparaben/ ethylparaben/propylparaben/ butylparaben
Lip0
Uvinul M-40
Oxybenzone sunscreen
BASF
Uvinul MS-40
Benzophenone-4. UV absorber
BASF
Vanc 1ay
Kaolin
Vanderbilt
Vanseal NALS-30
Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate
Vanderbilt
Varamide A-83
Witco
Varamide MA-1
Witco
Varamide ML-1
Witco
Variquat 50MC
Witco
Varonic K202
Nonionic wetting agent
Witco
Varonic K215
Wetting agent
Witco
Varonic LI-48/LI-63/ Wetting agents LI-67/LI-420 Varonic T202 SR
Wetting agent
Witco Witco
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
39 1
SOURCE
Varox 185E
Witco
Varox 365
Witco
Varox 1770
Witco
Varsulf SBFA-30 Veegum
Magnesium aluminum silicate
Vanderbilt
Veegum F
Magnesium aluminum silicate
Vanderbilt
Veegum HS
Magnesium aluminum silicate
Vanderbilt
Veegum HV
Magnesium aluminum silicate
Vanderbilt
Veegum R
Magnesium aluminum silicate
Vanderbilt
Veegum Ultra
Magnesium aluminum silicate
Vanderbilt
Velsan D8P-3
Isopropyl PPG-2 isodeceth-7 carboxylate
C 1ar iant
Velsan D8P-16
Cetyl PPG-2 isodeceth-7 carboxylate
C 1ariant
Velsan P8-3 Liquid
Isopropyl C12-15 Pareth-9-carb- Clariant oxylate
Velvetex BK-35
Cocamidopropyl betaine
Versene NA
Disodium EDTA. Chelating agent. Dow
Versene 100
Tetrasodium EDTA chelating agent
Vitamin-A-Palmitate
Retinyl palmitate
Vitamin E Acetate
Tocopheryl acetate
BASF
V0lpo-10
Oleth-10 solubilizer
Croda
Henkel
Dow
392
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
SOURCE
Wacker-Belsil CM020
Cyclomethicone
Wacker
Wacker-Belsil CM040
Cyclomethicone
Wacker
Wacker-Belsil CMlOOO
Cyclomethicone, dimethiconol
Wacker
Wacker-Belsil DMlOO
Dimethicone
Wacker
Wacker-Belsil DM350
Dimethicone
Wacker
Wacker-Belsil DMC6032 Dimethicone copolyol
Wacker
Wacker-Belsil DMC6038 Dimethicone copolyol
Wacker
Wacker-Belsil PDM020
Wacker
Phenyl trimethicone
Wacker-Belsil SDM6022 Stearoxy dimethicone, dimethi cone
Wacker
Wacker-Belsil SM6018
Stearyl methicone
Wacker
Witcamide CDA
Alkanolamide
Witco
Witcamide S-780
Alkanolamide
Witco
Witcamide 128T
Alkanolamide
Witco
Witcamide 511
Alkanolamide surfactant
Witco
Witcamide 6445
Alkanolamide surfactant
Witco Witco
Witco 1298 Soft Acid Witcolate ES-2
Surfactant
Witco
Witcolate LES-60A
Surfactant
Witco
Witcolate SE-5
Surfactant
Witco
Witcolate WAC-LA
Surfactant
Witco
Witconate AOS
Surfactant
Witco
Witconate AOS-PC
Surfactant
Witco
Witconate SXS Liquid
Surfactant
Witco
Witconate 30DS
Surfactant
Witco
Trade-Named Raw Materials
RAW MATERIALS
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
393
SOURCE
Witconate 7 9 s
Surfactant
Witco
Witconate 93s
Surfactant
Witco
Witconate 1260 Slurry Surfactant
Witco
Witconol EGMS
Witco
Witconol NP-120
Nonionic surfactant
Witco
Witconol 14
Polyglyceryl-4 oleate nonionic
Witco
Zinc Omadine FPS
Zinc pyrithione (48%)
01 in
Zincum N29
Zinc stearate
Henkel
102 Magnabrite HV
Stabilizing, suspending agent
AmerColloid
99411 Fruit Blend
Fragrance
Drom
Section XIV Suppliers' Addresses
394
Suppliers' Addresses
Active Organics Inc. 11230 Grader St. Dallas, TX 75238
Amoco Chemical Co. 200 E. Randolph Dr. Chicago, IL 60601
(214)-348-2015/(800)-541-1478
(312)-856-3200/(800)-621-4567
Agrashell Inc. 5934 Keystone Dr. Bath, PA 18014 (215)-837-6705
Angus Chemical Co. 1500 E. Lake Cook Rd. Buffalo Grove, IL 60089
Ajinomoto USA Inc. Glenpoint Ctr. W 500 Frank W. Burr Blvd. Teaneck, NJ 07645 (201)-907-3244
Aqualon 1313 N. Market St. Wilmington, DE 19899
Akzo Chemicals Inc. 300 South Riverside Plaza Chicago, IL 60606 (312)-906-7500 Alban Muller International Tri-K Industries 27 Bland St. Emerson, NJ 07630 (201)-261-2800/(800)-5~6-0372
Albright & Wilson Americas P.Q. Box 26229 Richmond, VA 23260 (804)-550-4300/(800)-446-3700
Allied Signal Inc. P.Q. Box 2332R Morristown, NJ 07962 (201)-455-2000 Amerchol Corp. P.O. Box 4051 136 Talmadge Rd. Edison, NJ 08818 (908)-248-6000 American Colloid Co. Hwy 212W Belle Fourche, SD 57717 (605)-892-2591
395
(708)-215-8600/(800)-323-6209
(302)-594-5000/(800)-345-8104
Atochem North America 900 Milk St. Cartaret, NJ 07008 (908)-541-4414 Barnet Products Corp. 560 Sylvan Ave. Englewood Cliffs, NJ 07632 (201)-569-6622 BASF Corp. 100 Cherry Hill Rd. Parsippany, NJ 07054 (201)-316-3000/(800)-526-1072
Bell Flavors & Fragrances Inc. 500 Acadamy Dr. Northbrook, IL 60062 (312)-291-8300/(800)-323-4387
Bernel Chemical Co. Inc. 174 Grand Ave. Englewood, NJ 07631 (201)-569-8934 Biomatrix Inc. 65 Railroad Ave. Ridgefield, NJ 07657 (201)-945-9550 BK-Ladenburg Corp. 50 Spring St. Cresskill, NJ 07626 (201)-567-9100/(800)-526-2688
396
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Brooks Industries Inc. 70 Tyler Place South Plainfield, NJ 07080 (908)-561-5200
Croda Inc. 7 Century Drive Parsippany, NJ 07054 (201)-644-4900
Calgon Corp. P.O. Box 1346 Pittsburgh, PA 15230 (412)-777-8000
Degussa Corp. 65 Challenger Rd. Ridgefield Park, NJ 07660 (201)-641-6100
Capital City Products Co. 525 W. First Ave. Columbus, OH 43216
Dow Chemical USA 2 0 2 0 Dow Center Midland, MI 49674 (800)-258-CHEM
(614)-299-3131/(800)-848-1340
(201)-858-7900/(800)-CAS-CHEM
Dow Corning Corp. Box 0994 Midland, MI 48686 (517)-496-4000
Centerchem Inc. 225 High Ridge Rd. Stamford, CT 06905 (203)-975-9800
Dragoco Inc. 10 Gordon Drive Totowa, NJ 07512 (201)-256-3850
Ciba-Geigy Corp. 410 Swing Rd. Greensboro, NC 27419
Drom International Inc. 5 Jacksonville Rd. P.O. Box 5 Towaco, NJ 07082 (201)-316-8400
CasChem Inc. 40 Avenue A Bayonne, NJ 07002
(919)-632-7327/(800)-221-0453
Clariant Corp. 4000 Monroe Road Charlotte, NC 28205 (704)-331-7000 Colorcon Inc. Moyer Blvd. West Point, PA 19486 (215)-699-7733
DuPont Co. 1007 Market St. Wilmington, DE 19898 (800)-441-7515 Eastman Chemical Co. P.O. Box 431 Kingsport, TN 37662 (615)-229-4006/(800)-EASTMAN
A & E Connock Ltd. Fordingsbridge, Hunts, UK Creanova Inc. 2 2 0 Davidson Ave. Somerset, NJ 08873 (732)-560-6800
ECC America 5775 Peachtree-Dunwoody Rd. Atlanta, GA 30342 (800)-843-3222 Emulan Inc. P.O. Box 582 Kenosha, WI 53141 (414)-654-0734
Suppliers’ Addresses
Fanning Corp. 2450 W. Hubbard St. Chicago, IL 60612 (312)-563-1234
BF Goodrich Co. 9911 Brecksville Rd. Cleveland, OH 44141
Finetex Inc. 418 Falmouth Ave. Elmwood Park, NJ 07407 (201)-797-4686
Grain Processing Corp. 1600 Oregon St. Muscatine, IA 52761 (319)-264-4265
FloraTech 2295 S. Coconino Dr. Apache Junction, A 2 85220 (602)-983-7909
Haarman & Reimer Corp. 60 Diamond Rd. Springfield, NJ 07091
Florida Food Products Inc. 2231 W Hwy 44 Eustis, FL 32726 (904)-357-4141
Hampshire Chemical Co. 55 Hayden Ave. Lexington, MA 02173 (617)-861-6600
H.B. Fuller Co. 3530 N. Lexington Ave. St. Paul, MN 55126
Henkel Corp. 11501 Northlake Drive Cincinnati, OH 45299
(612)-481-1588/(800)-468-6358
(513)-530-7300/(800)-543-7370
(216)-447-5000/(800)-331-1144
(201)-912-5707/(800)-432-1559
Gallard-Schlesinger Industries Hoechst Celanese Corp. 584 Mineola Ave. 3340 W. Norfolk Rd. Carle Place, NY 11514 Portsmouth, VA 23703 (516)-333-5600 (800)-483-7530/(800)-526-4960 Gattefosse Corp. 189 Kinderkamack Rd. Westwood, NJ 07675 (201)-573-1700
Hoffman-LaRoche Inc. 340 Kingsland St. Nutley, NJ 07110
GE Silicones 260 Hudson River Rd. Waterford, NY 12188 (518)-237-3330/(800)-255-8886
Hormel P.O. Box 800 Austin, MN 55912 (507)-437-5676
Givaudan-Roure Corp. 100 Delawanna Ave. Clifton, NJ 07015 (201)-365-8000
J.M. Huber Corp. Thornall St. Edison, NJ 08837 (201)-549-8600
Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. 914 E. Randolph Rd. Hopewell, VA 23860
Huls America Inc. 80 Centennial Dr. Piscataway, NJ 08854
(804)-541-8658/(800)-445-1809
(908)-980-6946/(800)-526-0339
(201)-235-8080/(800)-526-0189
397
398
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Hydrolabs Inc. 27 E 33 St. Paterson, NJ 07514 (201)-345-5100
Lip0 Chemicals Inc. 207 19th Ave. Paterson, NJ 07504 (201)-345-8600
ICI Americas Inc. Concord Pike & New Murphy Rd. Wilmington, DE 19897
Lonza Inc. 17-17 Rte. 208 Fair Lawn, NJ 07410
(302)-575-3034/(800)-822-8215
(201)-794-2400/(800)-777-1875
Inolex Chemical Co. Jackson 61 Swanson Sts. Philadelphia, PA 19148 (215)-271-0800/(800)-521-9891
McIntyre Group Ltd. 1000 Governors Hwy University Park, IL 60466 (708)-534-6200
ISP: International Specialty Products 1361 Alps Rd. Wayne, NJ 07470
Mearl Corp. 41 E 42nd St. New York, NY 10017 (212)-573-8500
(201)-628-3000/(800)-848-7659
Karlshamns USA Inc. 501 W. First Ave. P.O. Box 569 Columbus, OH 43201 (614)-299-3131 Kelco Div. Merck & Co. Inc. 8355 Aero Drive San Diego, CA 92123 (619)-292-4900/(800)-535-2656
E. Merck Darmstadt, Germany Mona Industries Inc. 76 E 24 St. P.O. Box 425 Paterson, N3 07544 (201)-345-8220 Morflex Inc. 2110 High Point Rd. Greensboro, NC 27403 (919)-292-1791
Kemira Inc. 1170 Rte 22E P.O. Box 6784 Bridgewater, NJ 08807
National Starch & Chemical Co 10 Finderne Ave. Bridgewater, NJ 08807
(201)-526-4644/(800)-4-KEMIRA
(908)-685-5000/(800)-532-1115
Koster-Keunen Inc. P.Q. Box 447 90 Bourne Blvd. Sayville, NY 11782 (516)-589-0456
Natterman Phospholipid GmbH Nattermannallee 1, Cologne D-50829, Germany 221-509-2239
Lanaetex Products Inc. 151 3 Ave. Elizabeth, N3 07206 (908)-351-9700
Suppliers' Addresses
Nipa Laboratories Inc. 104 Hagley Bldg. Concord Plaza 3411 Silverside Rd. Wilmington, DE 19810 (302)-478-1522 Novarome Inc. 30 Stewart Place Fairfield, NJ 07004 (201)-575-4550 Oils of Aloha P.O. Box 685 66-935 Kaukonahua Rd. Waialua, Hawaii 96791 (800)-367-6010 Olin Corp. 120 Long Ridge Rd. P.O. Box 1355 Stamford, CT 06904 (203)-356-2000/(800)-243-9171
Original Bradford Soap Works 200 Providence St. West Warwick, RI 02893 (401)-821-2141 Penreco 138 Petrolia St. Karns City, PA 16041 (412)-283-5600/(800)-245-3952
Pentapharm Ltd. Engelgasse 109, P.O. Box Basel, Switzerland Petrolite Corp. 6910 E 14 St. Tulsa, OK 74112 (918)-836-1601 Phillips 66 Co. 376 Phillips Bldg. Annex Bartlesville, OK 74004 (806)-274-5236/(800)-858-4327
399
Phoenix Chemical Co., Inc. 322 Courtyard Drive Somerville, NJ 08876 (908)-707-0232 Pilot Chemical Co. 11756 Burke St. Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670 (213)-723-0036 Polyesther Corp. 61 Hill St. P.O. Drawer 5076 Southampton, NY 11969 (516)-283-4400 PPG Industries 3938 Porett Drive Gurnee, IL 60031 (708)-244-3410/(800)-CHEM-PPG
Presperse Inc. 601 Hadley Rd. P.O. Box 735 South Plainfield, NJ 07080 (908)-756-2023 Proctor 9 Gamble Chemicals Div P.O. Box 599 Cincinnati, OH 45201 (513)-983-5607/(800)-543-1580
Protameen Chemicals Inc. 375 Minnisink Rd. Totowa, NJ 07511 (201)-256-4374 Quest International Fragrances 400 International Drive Mount Olive, NJ 07828 (201)-691-7100 Reheis Inc. 235 Snyder Ave. Berkeley Heights, NJ 07922 (908)-464-1500
400
Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations
Rheox Inc. Wyckoff Mills Rd. Hightstown, NJ 08520 (609)-443-2320
S&S Chemical Co. 333 Jericho Tpke Jericho, NY 11753 (516)-931-3333
Rhone-Poulenc Inc. Prospect Mains Rd. Cranbury, NJ 08512 (609)-860-4000
Stepan Co. 22 W. Frontage Rd. Northfield, IL 60093 (708)-446-7500
Dr. K. Richter GmbH Chemisches Laboratorium Bennigonstrabe 25, D-1000 Berlin
Sun Chemical Corp. 411 Summit Ave. Cincinnati, OH 45232
R.I.T.A. Corp. 1725 Kilkenny Woodstock, IL 60098
Sutton Laboratories Inc. 116 Summit Ave. Cincinnati, OH 45232
(815)-337-2500/(800)-426-7759
(513)-681-5950/(800)-343-2583
Roche Chemical Division Hoffman-LaRoche Inc. Nutley, NJ 07110 (201)-235-8077/(800)-526-0189
Technology Flavors & Fragrances 10 Edison St. E Amityville, NY 11701 (516)-842-7600
Rohm & Haas Co. Independence Mall West Philadelphia, PA 19105 (215)-592-3000
Terry Laboratories Inc. 390 N. Wickham Rd. P.O. Box 566 Melbourne, FL 32935
(513)-681-5950/(800)-343-2583
(407)-259-1630/(800)-367-2563
Rona/EM Industries 5 Skyline Dr. Hawthorne, NY 10532 (914)-592-4660 Frank B. Ross Co. Inc P.O. Box 4085 Jersey City, NJ 07304 (201)-433-4512
3V Inc. 1500 Harbor Blvd. Weehawken, NJ 07087 (201)-865-3600 Tioxide Specialties Ltd. Billingham, Cleveland TS23 1PS United Kingdom 0642-370300
Scher Chemicals Inc. Industrial w cor Styertowne Rd. Tri-K Industries Inc. Clifton, NJ 07012 P.O. Box 312 (201)-471-1300 27 Bland St. Emerson, NJ 07630 Shell Chemical Co. (201)-261-2800/(800)-526-0372 P.O. Box 2463 Houston, TX 77002 (713)-241-6161
Suppliers' Addresses
Trivent Chemical Co. 45 Ridge Rd. P . O . Box 5 9 7 South River, NJ 0 8 8 8 2
401
Wacker Silicones Corp. 3 3 0 1 Sutton Rd. Adrian, MI 4 9 2 2 1 (517)-264-8500/(800)-248-0063
(908)-251-1116
Ultra Chemical Inc. 130 Maple Ave. Red Bank, NJ 0 7 7 0 1
Whittaker, Clark & Daniels 1 0 0 0 Coolidge St. South Plainfield, NJ 0 7 0 8 0 (908)-561-6100
(908)-224-0200
Unichema North America 4 6 5 0 S. Racine Ave. Chicago, IL 6 0 6 0 9 (312)-376-9000/(800)-833-2864
Union Carbide Chemicals and Plastics 3 9 Old Ridgebury Rd. Danbury, CT 0 6 8 1 7 (203)-794-5300
Witco Corp. (All Groups) 1) Oleo Surfactants 2 ) Petroleum Specialties Group 3 ) Polymer Addistives Group 5 2 0 Madison Ave. New York, NY 10022 (212)-605-3000
Witco Corp. 5 7 7 7 Frantz Rd.-P.O. Box 6 4 6 Dublin, OH 4 3 0 1 7 (614)-765-6500/(800)-366-6500
R.T. Vanderbilt Co. Inc. 3 0 Winfield St. P.O. Box 5 1 5 0 Norwalk, CT 0 6 8 5 6 (203)-853-1400
Van Dyk Main & William Sts. Belleville, NJ 0 7 1 0 9 (201)-450-3264
Vista Chemical Co. 9 0 0 Threadneedle Houston, TX 7 7 0 7 9 (713)-588-3000
Zschimmer & Schwarz P.O. Box 2 1 7 9 D - 5 4 2 0 Lahnstein, West Germany
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