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5VTDBOZ6NCSJB 4USCANYªANDª5MBRIAªHARBOURªTHEªCLASSICªLANDSCAPESªOFª )TALY ªFAMILIARªFROMªAªTHOUSANDª2ENAISSANCEªPAINTINGS ª WITHªTHEIRªBACKDROPªOFªMEDIEVALªHILL TOWNS ªROWSªOFª CYPRESSªTREES ªVINEYARDSªANDªOLIVEª GROVES ªANDªARTFULLYªSITEDªVILLASª ANDªFARMHOUSESª)TSªAªSTEREOTYPEª THATªHASªLONGªHELDªANªIRRESISTIBLEª ATTRACTIONªFORªNORTHERNª%UROPEANSª 3HELLEYªREFERREDªTOª4USCANYªASªAª hPARADISEªOFªEXILESv ªANDªEVERªSINCEª HISªTIMEªTHEª%NGLISH ªINªPARTICULAR ª HAVEªSEENªTHEªREGIONªASªANªIDEALª REFUGEªFROMªAªSUN STARVEDªANDª OVERCROWDEDªHOMELAND
4HE EXPATRIATES PERSPECTIVE MAY BE DISTORTED BUT THE CENTRAL PROVINCES n AND ESPECIALLY 4USCANY n ARE INDEED THE ESSENCE OF )TALY IN MANY WAYS 4HE NATIONAL LANGUAGE EVOLVED FROM 4USCAN DIALECT A SUPREMACY ENSURED BY $ANTE WHO WROTE THE $IVINE #OMEDY IN THE VERNACULAR OF HIS BIRTHPLACE &LORENCE /THER GREAT 4USCAN WRITERS OF THE PERIOD n 0ETRARCH AND "OCCACCIO n REINFORCED ITS STATUS AND IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY -ANZONI CAME TO 4USCANY TO PURGE HIS VOCABULARY OF ANY IMPURITIES WHILE WORKING ON 4HE "ETROTHED THE MOST FAM OUS OF ALL )TALIAN NOVELS "UT WHAT MAKES THIS AREA PIVOTAL TO THE CULTURE NOT JUST OF )TALY BUT OF ALL %UROPE IS OF COURSE THE 2ENAISSANCE PERIOD WHOSE MASTERPIECES OF PAINTING SCULPTURE AND ARCHITECTURE ARE AN INTRINSIC PART OF ANY TOUR 4HE VERY NAME BY WHICH WE REFER TO THIS EXTRAORDINARILY CREATIVE ERA WAS COINED BY A 4USCAN 'IORGIO 6ASARI WHO WROTE IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY OF THE hREBIRTHv OF THE ARTS WITH THE HUMANISM OF 'IOTTO AND HIS SUCCESSORS .OWADAYS 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA ARE AMONG THE WEALTHIEST REGIONS OF THE MODERN )TALIAN STATE A PROSPERITY FOUNDED PARTLY ON AGRICULTURE AND TOURISM BUT LARGELY ON THEIR INDUSTRIAL CENTRES WHICH ARE ESPECIALLY CONSPICUOUS IN THE !RNO VALLEY .ONETHELESS BOTH 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA ARE PREDOMINANTLY RURAL PROVINCES WITH GREAT TRACTS OF LAND STILL LOOKING MUCH AS THEY DID HALF
&ACT FILE 4USCANY sª4USCANYª4OSCANA ªHASªAª POPULATIONªOFªAROUNDªªMIL LION ªWITHªSOMEª ªINªª &LORENCE ªITSªCAPITAL
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sª)TªISªBORDEREDªBYªTHEªSEAªTOª THEªWEST ªANDªBYªTHEª!PEN NINEªMOUNTAINSªTOªTHEªEASTªINª THEªNORTHªLIEªTHEª!LPIª!PUANEª WHEREª-ONTEª0RADOªREACHESª M ªWHILEªINªTHEªSOUTHª RISESª-ONTEª!MIATAª3OUTHªOFª ,IVORNOªLIESªTHEªCOASTALªPLAINª OFªTHEª-AREMMAª4USCANYª HASªMOREªWOODLANDªTHANªANYª OTHERª)TALIANªREGION sª4OURISMªISªANªIMPORTANTª CONTRIBUTORªTOªTHEªREGIONSª ECONOMY ªASªAREªAGRICULTUREª ESPECIALLYªBEEF ªWINEªANDª OLIVEªOIL ªANDªTEXTILEªPRODUC TION ªWHICHªISªCONCENTRATEDªINª THEª!RNOªVALLEYªANDª0RATO
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A MILLENNIUM AGO *UST AS THE HILL TOWNS MOULD THEMSELVES TO THE SUMMITS THE TERRACES OF VINES FOLLOW THE LOWER CON TOURS OF THE HILLS AND OPEN lELDS SPREAD ACROSS THE BROADER VALLEYS FORMING A DISTINCTIVE BALANCE BETWEEN THE NATURAL AND HUMAN WORLD
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LORENCE WAS THE MOST ACTIVE CENTRE OF THE 2ENAISSANCE mOURISHING THROUGH THE PATRON AGE OF THE ALL POWERFUL -EDICI OF A MULTITUDE OF RELIGIOUS BODIES AND OF THE GUILDS WHOSE MERCHANTS AND MANUFACTURERS LAID THE FOUNDA TIONS OF THE CITYS PROSPERITY %VERY EMINENT ARTISTIC lGURE FROM 'IOTTO ONWARDS n -ASACCIO "RUNELLESCHI !LBERTI $ONATELLO "OTTICELLI ,EONAR DO -ICHELANGELO n IS REPRESENTED HERE IN AN UNRIVALLED GATHERING OF CHURCHES GALLERIES AND MUSEUMS
sª5MBRIAªISªTHEªONLYªLAND LOCKEDªREGIONªOFªTHEª)TALIANª PENINSULAª/FªITSª ª POPULATION ª ªLIVEªINªª 0ERUGIA ªTHEªCAPITAL sª4HEªTERRAINªISªGENTLERªTHANª 4USCANY ªBUTªTHEª!PENNINESª RUNªALONGªTHEªEASTERNªBORDER ª WHERE ªINªTHEª3IBILLINIªMOUN TAINS ª-ONTEª6ETTOREªREACHESª MªJUSTªOVERªTHEªBORDERªINª -ARCHEª3OMEªªPERCENTªOFª 5MBRIAªISªWOODLAND sª0ERUGIAªMANUFACTURESªFOODª ANDªCLOTHING ªANDªFACTORIESªDOTª THEª6ALEªOFª3POLETO ªBUTªTHEª MAJORªINDUSTRIESªSTEEL ªCHEMI CALS ªTEXTILES ªPAPERªANDªFOOD ª AREªINªTHEªSOUTH ªAROUNDª4ERNIª 4RADITIONALªCRAFTSªAREªALSOªSIG NIlCANT ªESPECIALLYªPOTTERY
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3IMPLICITYªREMAINSªTHEªDElNINGªCHARACTERISTICªOFªTHEªCUISINEªOFª4USCANYª ANDª5MBRIAª#OMPLICATEDªSAUCESªPLAYªNOªPARTªINªTHEªCLASSICªRECIPESªOFª THESEªREGIONSªHEREªITSªALLªABOUTªTOP QUALITYªLOCALªPRODUCE ªBROUGHTªTOª THEªTABLEªWITHªAªMINIMUMªOFªINTERVENTIONª!ªSWIFTªGRILLING ªAªDRIZZLEªOFªOLIVEª OIL ªAªLIGHTªGARNISHªOFªHERBSªnªTHATSªALLªTHEªENHANCEMENTªDEEMEDªNECES SARYªFORªAªCUTªOFªPRIMEª4USCANªBEEFªORª5MBRIANªPORKª6EGETABLESªTENDªTOª FEATUREªASªSIDEªDISHESªANDªSTARTERSªTHEªTHICKªBEANªSOUPªCALLEDªRIBOLLITAªISª AªSIGNATUREª4USCANªCREATION ªANDªSPINACHªANDªARTICHOKESªAREªSTAPLESªOFª MOSTªMENUS ªASªAREª5MBRIANªTRUFmESªINªTHEªAUTUMNª!SªFORªWINE ªYOUREª SPOILEDªFORªCHOICEª#HIANTIªISªTHEªBEST KNOWNªABROAD ªBUTªTHEªVINEYARDSª OFª-ONTALCINO ª-ONTELPUCIANO ª3CANSANO ª-ONTEFALCOªANDª/RVIETOªnªTOª NAMEªONLYªTHEªMOSTªOBVIOUSªnªALLªREGULARLYªPRODUCEªOUTSTANDINGªVINTAGES
)F &LORENCE TENDS TO TAKE THE LIMELIGHT TODAY RIVALRY BETWEEN THE TOWNS OF BOTH PROVINCES n AN IMPORTANT FACTOR IN A REGION WHOSE INHABITANTS FEEL A STRONG LOYALTY TO THEIR PARTICULAR LOCALITY n ENSURED THAT PICTURES AND PALACES WERE SPONSORED BY EVERYONE WHO COULD AFFORD THEM %XQUISITE 2ENAIS SANCE WORKS ADORN ALMOST EVERY PLACE OF ANY SIZE FROM THE 4USCAN COAST TO THE !PENNINE SLOPES OF EASTERN 5MBRIA WHILE THE LARGEST TOWNS CAN BOAST ARTISTIC PROJECTS EVERY BIT AS AMBITIOUS AS THOSE TO BE SEEN IN &LORENCE THE 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCA FRESCOES IN !REZZO FOR EXAMPLE OR THOSE BY ,UCA 3IGNORELLI IN /RVIETO OR 'IOTTO IN !SSISI -OREOVER THE ART OF THE 2ENAISSANCE DID NOT SPRING OUT OF THIN AIR 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA BOTH CAN BOAST A CULTURAL LINEAGE THAT STRETCHES BACK UNBROKEN TO THE TIME OF #HARLEMAGNE AND EVEN BEYOND ,UCCA IS ONE OF THE HANDSOMEST 2OMANESQUE CITIES IN %UROPE AND 0ISA n WHOSE #AMPO DEI -IRACOLI WITH ITS ,EANING 4OWER IS ONE OF %UROPES MOST BRILLIANT MONUMENTAL ENSEMBLES n IS ANOTHER CITY WHOSE HEYDAY CAME IN THE -IDDLE !GES 3IENAS RED BRICK MEDIEVAL CITYSCAPE ARRANGED AROUND ITS FABULOUS SCALLOP SHAPED #AMPO MAKES
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A REFRESHING CONTRAST WITH THE DARKER TONES OF &LORENCE WHILE A TOUR THROUGH 5MBRIA CAN SEEM LIKE A PROCESSION OF MAGNIlCENT ANCIENT HILL TOWNS 4HE ATTRACTIONS OF !SSISI BIRTHPLACE OF 3T &RANCIS 3POLETO AND THE BUSY PROVINCIAL CAPITAL OF 0ERUGIA ARE HARDLY SECRETS BUT OTHER 5MBRIAN TOWNS REMAIN MORE OBSCURE n SUCH AS 'UBBIO AND THE BACKWATER DELIGHTS OF "EVAGNA AND 4ODI -ANY OF THE 5MBRIAN TOWNS RETAIN A FAIR SHOWING OF THEIR ANCIENT PAST TOO WITH %TRUSCAN AND 2OMAN WALLS AND TOMBS TO BE SEEN ON SITES LEFT UNDISTURBED FOR CENTURIES 4HE VARIETY OF LANDSCAPE WITHIN THIS COMPARATIVELY SMALL AREA IS ASTOUND ING ! SHORT DISTANCE FROM CENTRAL &LORENCE SPREAD THE THICKLY WOODED UPLANDS OF THE -UGELLO AND THE #ASENTINO MUCH OF THE LATTER STILL MAIN TAINED BY THE MONASTERIES TO WHICH THE FORESTS WERE ENTRUSTED HUNDREDS OF YEARS AGO ,UCCA IS A SPRINGBOARD FOR THE !LPI !PUANE WHOSE MOUNTAIN QUARRIES HAVE SUPPLIED %UROPES MASONS WITH PURE WHITE MARBLE FOR CENTU RIES !LONG THE 4USCAN SHORELINE THE RESORTS ARE INTERSPERSED BY SOME OF )TALYS BEST KEPT WILDLIFE RESERVES INCLUDING THE FABULOUS -ONTI DELL5CCELLINA THE LAST STRETCH OF VIRGIN COAST IN THE WHOLE COUNTRY /UT IN THE 4USCAN ARCHIPELAGO THE ISLAND OF 'IGLIO IS RELATIVELY UNSPOILT BY THE SORT OF TOUR IST DEVELOPMENT THAT HAS INlLTRATED n THOUGH CERTAINLY NOT RUINED n NEARBY %LBA 4HE PASTORAL ARCHETYPE IS PERHAPS MOST STRIKINGLY SUBVERTED IN THE DEEP SOUTH OF THE PROVINCE WHERE THE AGRICULTURAL HINTERLAND OF 3IENA SOON GIVES WAY TO THE BLEAK CRETE AND THE SULPHUROUS POOLS OF 3ATURNIA ,ANDLOCKED 5MBRIA MAY NOT BE AS VARIED AS ITS NEIGHBOUR BUT THE WILD HEIGHTS OF THE 6ALNERINA THE 0IANO 'RANDES PRAIRIE LIKE EXPANSE AND THE SAVAGE PEAKS OF THE -ONTI 3IBILLINI ALL CONTRAST WITH THE TRANQUIL SOFT CONTOURED HILLS WITH WHICH THE REGION IS MOST OFTEN ASSOCIATED )N ,AGO 4RASIMENO THE PROVINCE HAS THE LARGEST BODY OF WATER ON THE )TALIAN PENIN SULA WHILE IN THE SOUTH THERES THE #ASCATE DELLE -ARMORE A SPECTACULAR IF SPORADIC WATERFALL z©6AL©D/RCIA ©NEAR©0IENZA
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IDSUMMER IN CENTRAL )TALY IS NOT AS PLEASANT AN EXPERIENCE AS YOU MIGHT IMAGINE THE HEAT CAN BE STImING AND FROM -AY TO 3EP TEMBER YOULL REQUIRE LUCK TO lND ACCOMMODATION IN ALL BUT THE MOST OUT OF THE WAY SPOTS )F AT ALL POSSIBLE THE MONTH TO AVOID IS !UGUST WHEN THE GREAT MAJORITY OF )TALIANS TAKE THEIR HOLIDAYS !S A RESULT MANY TOWN RESTAURANTS AND SOME HOTELS ARE CLOSED FOR THE ENTIRE MONTH AND THE BEACHES ARE JAMMED SOLID !S THE STANDARD )TALIAN IDEA OF AN ENJOYABLE SUMMER BREAK IS TO SPEND A FEW WEEKS TOWEL TO TOWEL ON THE SAND 5MBRIA ESCAPES THE WORST OF THE RUSH BUT THE PROBLEM OF LIMITED OPENING REMAINS &LORENCE THROUGHOUT THE SUMMER IS SUCH A LOG JAM OF TOUR GROUPS THAT THE MAJOR ATTRACTIONS BECOME A PURGATORIAL EXPERIENCE A TWO HOUR QUEUE FOR THE 5FlZI IS NOT UNUSUAL 4O ENJOY A VISIT FULLY GO THERE SHORTLY BEFORE %ASTER OR IN THE LATE AUTUMN n TIMES OF THE YEAR THAT ARE THE BEST FOR 4US CANY AND 5MBRIA AS A WHOLE AS THE TOWNS ARE QUIETER AND THE COUNTRYSIDE IS BLOSSOMING OR TAKING ON THE TONES OF THE HARVEST SEASON 4HE 5MBRIAN CLIMATE IS SLIGHTLY MORE EXTREME THAN 4USCANYS CHIEmY BECAUSE OF ITS DIS TANCE FROM THE SEA TEMPERATURES IN SUMMER ARE FRACTIONALLY HIGHER WHILE THE HILL TOP LOCALES OF MANY TOWNS CAN MAKE THEM SURPRISINGLY WINDY AND COOL AT OTHER TIMES 7INTER IS OFTEN QUITE RAINY BUT THE ABSENCE OF CROWDS MAKES THIS A GOOD OPTION FOR THE CITIES ON THE MAJOR ART TRAILS "EAR IN MIND HOWEVER THAT THE HIGH ALTITUDE OF MUCH OF THE REGION MEANS MANY ROADS ARE IMPASSABLE IN MIDWINTER AND IN PLACES LIKE THE UPPER #ASENTINO OR THE 3IBILLINI THE SNOW MIGHT NOT MELT UNTIL -ARCH OR EVEN !PRIL {©7ASHING©HANGING©FROM©SHUTTERED©WINDOWS ©0IAZZA©!NkTEATRO ©,UCCA
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)TS ALWAYS WORTH CHECKING WHEN EACH TOWN HAS ITS FESTIVALS OR PILGRIM AGES !CCOMMODATION IS ALWAYS TRICKY DURING THESE MINI PEAK SEASONS BUT SOME OF THE FESTIVITIES ARE ENJOYABLE ENOUGH TO MERIT PLANNING A TRIP AROUND -ANY HAVE BEEN CRUCIAL TO THEIR TOWNS IMAGE FOR CENTURIES n THE MOST CELEBRATED OF THESE BEING THE 3IENA 0ALIO A HELL FOR LEATHER HORSE RACE ROUND THE CENTRAL SQUARE 4HE FRENZY OF 'UBBIOS SEMI PAGAN #ORSA DEI #ERI ALMOST MATCHES IT AS DOES THE PASSIONATE COMMITMENT OF &LORENCES #ALCIO 3TORICO A FOOTBALL MATCH IN MEDIEVAL ATTIRE WITH NO HOLDS BARRED #OSTUMED JOUSTS AND OTHER MARTIAL DISPLAYS ARE A FEATURE OF SEVERAL FESTIVE CALENDARS NOTABLE EXAMPLES BEING THE JOUSTS IN 0ISTOIA AND !REZZO AND THE TWICE YEARLY CROSSBOW COMPETITIONS BETWEEN 'UBBIO AND 3ANSEPOLCRO (OLY DAYS AND SAINTS DAYS BRING IN THE CROWDS IN EQUAL NUMBERS WITH !SSISI LEADING THE WAY AS THE MOST VENERATED SITE !MONG THE INNUMERABLE ARTS FESTIVALS THE HIGHEST PROlLES ARE ACHIEVED BY THE CONTEMPORARY ARTS EXTRAVAGANZA IN 3POLETO THE 5MBRIA *AZZ FESTIVAL
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IN 0ERUGIA AND THE -AGGIO -USICALE IN MORE CONSERVATIVE &LORENCE n BUT AS WITH THE MORE FOLKLORIC EVENTS EVEN THE SMALLEST TOWNS HAVE THEIR CUL TURAL STAGIONE &INALLY THERES SCARCELY A HAMLET IN 4USCANY OR 5MBRIA THAT DOESNT HAVE A FOOD OR WINE FESTIVAL THE REGION SEEMING TO lND AN EXCUSE TO CELEBRATE ALMOST EVERYTHING THAT BREATHES OR GROWS !PPEALING MAINLY TO THE LOCAL POPULATION AND OFTEN LASTING FOR JUST A DAY THESE EVENTS PLACE LESS STRESS ON THE HOTELS THOUGH IT MIGHT BE A GOOD IDEA TO BOOK A ROOM IF YOURE DROPPING BY FOUNTAINS RUNNING WITH WINE AND OTHER SUCH EXCESSES ARE PRETTY COMMON
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4HEªTABLEªSHOWSªAVERAGEªDAYTIMEªTEMPERATURESªANDªAVERAGEªMONTHLYªRAINFALL
0ERUGIA
z©0ITIGLIANO
\ "$ 5*7*5*& 4 \ $0/46. & \ & 7 & /54 \ /"563& \ 4 * ()54 \
THINGSªNOTªTOªMISS
)TS NOT POSSIBLE TO SEE EVERYTHING THAT 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA HAVE TO OFFER IN ONE TRIP n AND WE DONT SUGGEST YOU TRY 7HAT FOLLOWS IS A SELECTIVE TASTE OF THE REGIONS HIGHLIGHTS GREAT PLACES TO VISIT OUTSTANDING BUILDINGS SPECTACULAR SCENERY AND UNFORGETTABLE EVENTS 4HEYRE ARRANGED IN lVE COLOUR CODED CATEGORIES WHICH YOU CAN BROWSE THROUGH TO lND THE VERY BEST THINGS TO SEE AND EXPERIENCE !LL ENTRIES HAVE A PAGE REFERENCE TO TAKE YOU STRAIGHT INTO THE GUIDE WHERE YOU CAN lND OUT MORE
3AN 'IMIGNANO 0AGEªªs 3ANª'IMIGNANOªISªONEªOFªTHEªBEST PRESERVEDª MEDIEVALªTOWNSªINª)TALYª&IFTEENªOFªTHEªORIGINALªªTOWERSªBUILTªINªTHEª-IDDLEª!GESªSURVIVE
4HE 5FlZIª0AGEªªsª'ENTILEªDAª&ABRIANOSª"EPSBUJPOPGUIF.BHJªISªBUTªONEª MASTERPIECEªAMIDªDOZENSªINªTHEªGALLERIESªOFªTHEª5FlZIª
3POLETOª0AGEªªsª4HEªFACADEª OFª3POLETOSªCATHEDRALªOWESªITSª CHARMªTOªTHEªRESTRAINEDªCOMBINATIONªOFª 2OMANESQUEªANDª2ENAISSANCEªELEMENTS
$UOMO 3IENAª0AGEªªs4HEª DOMEªANDªBELL TOWERªOFª3IENASªCATHEDRALª RISEªABOVEªTHEªCITYSªMEDIEVALªROOFTOPS
\ "$ 5*7*5*& 4 \ $0/46. & \ & 7 & /54 \ /"563& \ 4 * ()54 \
\ "$ 5*7*5*& 4 \ $0/46. & \ & 7 & /54 \ /"563& \ 4 * ()54 \
0IENZA 0AGEªªsª4HEª $UOMOªANDª0IAZZAª0IOª))ªFORMªTHEª CENTREPIECEªOFª0IENZA ªDESIGNEDªASªAª 5TOPIANª2ENAISSANCEªCITYªINªTHEªlFTEENTHª CENTURY
3ANTA #ROCE &LORENCEª 0AGEªªsª7ITHªANªEXTRAORDINARYªARRAYªOFª PAINTINGSªANDªSCULPTURES ªANDªONEªOFª&LORENCESª lNESTªEXAMPLESªOFª2ENAISSANCEªARCHITECTURE ª 3ANTAª#ROCEªISªANOTHERªAMAZINGªMONUMENT
"ARGA !LPI !PUANEª0AGEªªsª4HEªVILLAGEªOFª"ARGA ªKNOWNªFORªITSªSUBLIMEª CATHEDRALªANDªSUMMERªMUSICªFESTIVAL ªISªSETªINªTHEªSHADOWªOFªTHEª/RRECCHIELLAªANDª!LPIª !PUANEªMOUNTAINS
3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA &LORENCEª0AGEªªsª&RESCOESªBYª!NDREAªDIª &IRENZE ª5CCELLO ª-ASACCIO ª'HIRLANDAIO ª&ILIPPINOª,IPPIªANDªOTHERSªMAKEª3ANTAª-ARIAª .OVELLAªONEªOFª&LORENCESªESSENTIALªSIGHTSªª
3AN ,ORENZO &LORENCEª0AGEªªs !TTACHEDªTOªTHEªPARISHªCHURCHªOFªTHEª -EDICI ª-ICHELANGELOSª3AGRESTIAª.UOVAªISªONEªOFªHISªMOSTªSPECTACULARªCREATIONS
\ "$ 5*7*5*& 4 \ $0/46. & \ & 7 & /54 \ /"563& \ 4 * ()54 \
\ "$ 5*7*5*& 4 \ $0/46. & \ & 7 & /54 \ /"563& \ 4 * ()54 \
0IAZZA DEL $UOMOªª0AGEªªsª&LORENCESªCATHEDRALªSQUAREªISªAªSTUPENDOUSª ENSEMBLEªOFªRELIGIOUSªARCHITECTURE
'UBBIOª0AGEªªsª6AULTEDª MEDIEVALªALLEYSªSUCHªASªTHISªONEª BELOWªTHEª0ALAZZOªDEIª#ONSOLIªINª'UBBIOªAREª TYPICALªOFª5MBRIANªHILL TOWNS
0ISAª0AGEªªsª4HEª,EANINGª4OWERª ISªFARªFROMªBEINGª0ISASªONLYªlRST RANKª ATTRACTIONªª
)CE CREAMª0AGEªªsª5NTILªYOUVEªSAMPLEDªHFMBUP ªYOUªDONTªKNOWªJUSTªHOWªGOODª ICEªCREAMªCANªBE
-ONTI DELL5CCELLINAª0AGEªªsª4HEªPROTECTEDªENVIRONMENTªOFªTHEª-ONTIª DELL5CCELLINAªINªTHEª-AREMMAªISªONEªOFªTHEªLASTªPRISTINEªSTRETCHESªOFªCOASTLINEªINª)TALY
\ "$ 5*7*5*& 4 \ $0/46. & \ & 7 & /54 \ /"563& \ 4 * ()54 \
\ "$ 5*7*5*& 4 \ $0/46. & \ & 7 & /54 \ /"563& \ 4 * ()54 \
6OLTERRA "ALZE 0AGEªª sª%TRUSCANªANDª 2OMANªREMAINS ª ASªWELLªASªOLDª ALABASTERªMINES ª DOTªTHEªERODEDªANDª SOFT STONEDªCLIFFSª KNOWNªASª,Eª"ALZEª CLOSEªTOªTHEªANCIENTª CITYªOFª6OLTERRA
0IANO 'RANDE 0AGEªªs 4HEª0IANOª'RANDE ªANªEXTRAORDINARYª UPLANDªABOVEª.ORCIA ªISªTHEªMOSTªSTRIKINGª FEATUREªOFªTHEª3IBILLINIªMOUNTAINS ªPARTªOFª THEª!PENNINEªCHAINªINªEASTERNª5MBRIA
/RVIETOª0AGEªªsª4HEªMONUMENTALª FACADEªOFª/RVIETOªCATHEDRALªISªTHEªMOSTª SPECTACULARªINª)TALYª)TªWASªBEGUNªINª ªBUTª THEªlNISHINGªTOUCHESªnªTHEªBRONZEªDOORSªnªWEREª ONLYªADDEDªINª
,UCCA 0AGEªªsª&ROMªTHEª THIRTEENTH CENTURYªFACADEªOFª3ANª-ICHELEª INª&OROªTHEªARCHANGELª-ICHAELªGAZESªOVERªTHEª CENTREªOFªTHEªGRACEFULªSMALLªCITYªOFª,UCCA
#ORTONA 0AGEªªsª7ITHªBARELYª AªSINGLEªLEVELªSTREETªINªTHEªDFOUSP TUPSJDP ª#ORTONAªISªTHEªHILLIESTªOFªHILL TOWNS
4HE #ASENTINOª0AGEªªsª,EAVEªTHEªCROWDSªBEHINDªINªTHEªLUSHªWOODEDªHILLSªOFª THEª#ASENTINO
\ "$ 5*7*5*& 4 \ $0/46. & \ & 7 & /54 \ /"563& \ 4 * ()54 \
\ "$ 5*7*5*& 4 \ $0/46. & \ & 7 & /54 \ /"563& \ 4 * ()54 \
4HE #RETEª0AGEªªsª4HEªALMOSTªBARE ªCLAYªHILLSªOFªTHEª#RETEªSOUTHªOFª3IENAªMAKEª UPªONEªOFª4USCANYSªMOSTªBEAUTIFULªANDªDISTINCTIVEªLANDSCAPESª)NªSUMMERªTHEªlELDSª BLAZEªWITHªPOPPIES ªSUNmOWERSªANDªRIPENINGªWHEAT
0ERUGIAª0AGEªªsª,OOKINGªTOWARDSª!SSISIªOVERªTHEªROOFTOPSªOFª0ERUGIA ªWHOSEª LOFTYªHILL TOPªPOSITIONªHASªBEENªINHABITEDªSINCEªATªLEASTª%TRUSCANªTIMESª
4USCAN WINE 0AGEª ªsª3OMEªOFª )TALYSªlNESTª VINTAGESªCANª BEªSAMPLEDªINª THEªWINEªBARSª OFª4USCANYªANDª 5MBRIA
3ANT!NTIMOª0AGEªªsª3PLENDIDªANDªSERENE ª3ANT!NTIMOªISªONEªOFªSEVERALª WORKINGªABBEYSªSETªINªTHEªGLORIOUSªCOUNTRYSIDEªSOUTHªOFª3IENA
\ "$ 5*7*5*& 4 \ $0/46. & \ & 7 & /54 \ /"563& \ 4 * ()54 \
#ORSA DEI #ERIª0AGEªªsª0ROCESSIONS ªPAGEANTSªANDªAªRACEªBETWEENªTHREEª TEAMSªBEARINGªTHEªDFSJ ªORªCANDLES ªMARKªTHEª#ORSAªDEIª#ERI ªHELDªINªTHEª5MBRIANªTOWNªOFª 'UBBIOªEACHªYEARªONª-AYªª
\ "$ 5*7*5*& 4 \ $0/46. & \ & 7 & /54 \ /"563& \ 4 * ()54 \
3AN &RANCESCO !REZZOª0AGEªªsª"EªSUREªTOªBOOKªINªADVANCEªFORªAªVISITªTOª 0IEROªDELLAª&RANCESCASªSUBLIMEªFRESCOªCYCLE
!SSISI 0AGEªªs-ORNINGªMISTªSETTLESªINªTHEª6ALEªOFª3POLETOªBELOWª!SSISI ªBIRTHPLACEª OFª3Tª&RANCISªANDªONEªOFªTHEªMOSTªBEAUTIFULªOFª5MBRIASªMANYªHILL TOWNS
"ASICS
"ASICS 'ETTING THERE 2ED TAPE AND VISAS )NFORMATION WEBSITES AND MAPS )NSURANCE AND HEALTH #OSTS MONEY AND BANKS 'ETTING AROUND !CCOMMODATION &OOD AND DRINK #OMMUNICATIONS 4HE MEDIA /PENING HOURS HOLIDAYS AND FESTIVALS /UTDOORS ACTIVITIES 4ROUBLE AND THE POLICE 4RAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES 'AY AND LESBIAN TRAVELLERS $IRECTORY
&OR 4USCANY mYING INTO 0ISA 03! SEE P IS THE BEST BET WITH AN EASY RAIL OR BUS TRIP FROM THE AIRPORT TO THE CENTRE OF &LOR ENCE 4HE SMALL AIRPORT AT &LORENCE &,2 HAS FEWER INTERNATIONAL mIGHTS ALTHOUGH TRAVEL LINKS ARE STRAIGHTFORWARD SEE P "OLOGNA AIRPORT ",1 IS A SHUTTLE BUS RIDE FROM "OLO GNA MAIN TRAIN STATION FROM WHERE &LORENCE IS AN HOUR AWAY &OR MUCH OF 5MBRIA mYING INTO 2OME IS SIMPLEST WITH AN ONWARD JOURNEY BY ROAD OR RAIL OF AROUND TWO HOURS TO 0ERUGIA OR 3POLETO THREE HOURS TO &LORENCE &IUMICINO &#/ THE COMMON NAME FOR 2OMES MAIN ,EONARDO DA 6INCI AIRPORT IS ABOUT KM WEST OF THE CITY CENTRE FROM WHERE A HALF HOURLY EXPRESS TRAIN TAKES THIRTY MINUTES TO REACH 3TAZIONE 4ER MINI 2OMES PRINCIPAL STATION -ANY CHARTER mIGHTS AND NO FRILLS AIRLINES USE 2OMES SMALLER #IAMPINO AIRPORT #)! SOUTHEAST OF THE CITY WHICH IS LINKED BY HALF HOURLY BUSES TO #IAMPI NO TRAIN STATION FROM WHERE TRAINS RUN EVERY lFTEEN MINUTES TO 3TAZIONE 4ERMINI 4HE TINY AIRPORT AT 0ERUGIA 0%' HAS FEW mIGHTS BUT EASY TRAVEL LINKS SEE PP TO THE CITY AND THE REGION 4HE EAST COAST PORT OF !NCONA !/) IS ANOTHER POSSIBILITY WITH A SHUTTLE BUS FROM THE AIRPORT TO THE MAIN TRAIN STATION FOR ONWARD TRAVEL INTO 5MBRIA !IRFARES USUALLY DEPEND ON THE SEASON WITH THE HIGHEST BEING AROUND %ASTER AND FROM *UNE TO !UGUST WHEN THE WEATHER IS BEST FARES DROP DURING THE hSHOULDERv SEA SONS n 3EPTEMBER TO /CTOBER AND !PRIL TO -AY n AND YOULL GET THE BEST PRICES DURING THE .OVEMBER TO -ARCH LOW SEASON EXCLUD ING #HRISTMAS AND .EW 9EAR .OTE ALSO THAT
\
4HE EASIEST WAY TO GET TO 4USCANY OR 5MBRIA IS TO mY 4HE MAIN AIRPORTS ARE AT 0ISA 2OME AND "OLOGNA THOUGH THE SMALLER ONES AT &LORENCE 0ERUGIA AND !NCONA ARE SERVED BY AN INCREASING NUMBER OF mIGHTS &ROM THE 5+ AND )RELAND COMPETITIVE PRICES FOR CHARTER OR SCHEDULED mIGHTS OUTWEIGH THE INCONVENIENCE OF THE LONG RAIL OR BUS JOURNEY 4HE TWO DAY DRIVE IS A VIABLE THOUGH EXPENSIVE OPTION &LIGHTS FROM .ORTH !MERICA AND !USTRALASIA COME INTO 2OME OR LESS CONVENIENTLY -ILAN FROM WHERE YOU CAN MOVE ON BY PLANE OR OVERLAND FROM DOWN UNDER YOU MAY lND IT CHEAPER TO mY TO ,ONDON AND GET A BUDGET ONWARD mIGHT FROM THERE
" ! 3)#3 'ETTING THERE
'ETTING THERE
IT IS GENERALLY MORE EXPENSIVE TO mY AT WEEK ENDS PRICE RANGES QUOTED BELOW ASSUME MIDWEEK TRAVEL 9OU CAN OFTEN CUT COSTS BY GOING THROUGH A DISCOUNT mIGHT AGENT WHO MAY ALSO OFFER SPECIAL STUDENT AND YOUTH FARES AND A RANGE OF OTHER TRAVEL RELATED SERV ICES SUCH AS TRAVEL INSURANCE RAIL PASSES CAR RENTALS TOURS AND THE LIKE 3OME AGENTS SPECIALIZE IN CHARTER mIGHTS WHICH MAY BE CHEAPER THAN ANYTHING AVAILABLE ON A SCHED ULED mIGHT BUT DEPARTURE DATES ARE lXED AND WITHDRAWAL PENALTIES ARE HIGH 3OME AGENTS OFFER hOPEN JAWv DEALS WHEREBY YOU CAN mY INTO ONE )TALIAN CITY AND BACK FROM ANOTHER n A GOOD IDEA IF YOU WANT TO MAKE YOUR WAY ACROSS THE COUNTRY AND GENERALLY NO MORE EXPENSIVE THAN A STANDARD CHARTER RETURN 9OU MAY EVEN lND IT CHEAPER TO PICK UP A PACKAGE DEAL THAT TAKES CARE OF mIGHTS AND ACCOMMODATION FOR AN ALL IN PRICE -ANY AIR LINES AND DISCOUNT TRAVEL WEBSITES OFFER YOU THE OPPORTUNITY TO BOOK TICKETS ONLINE CUT TING OUT THE COSTS OF AGENTS AND MIDDLEMEN 'OOD DEALS CAN OFTEN BE FOUND THROUGH DIS COUNT OR AUCTION SITES AS WELL AS THROUGH THE AIRLINES OWN WEBSITES
/NLINE BOOKING AGENTS WWWFLYAOWCOM /NLINE AIR TRAVEL INFO AND RESERVATIONS SITE TRAVELYAHOOCOUK 'OOD INFORMATION AND DESTINATION COVERAGE WWWCHEAPTICKETSCOM $ISCOUNT mIGHT SPECIALISTS FROM THE 53 ONLY WWWCHEAPFLIGHTSCOM ! hSHOP WINDOWv SITE LINKING TO VARIOUS AGENTS AND AIRLINES "OOKINGS FROM THE 5+ AND )RELAND ONLY
" ! 3)#3
\'ETTING THERE
WWWCHEAPESTFLIGHTSCOUK 'OOD SOURCE OF BUDGET mIGHTS FROM 5+ WWWEXPEDIACOUK $ISCOUNT AIRFARES AND ACCOMMODATION 'O TO EXPEDIACOM FOR DEALS FROM .ORTH !MERICA WWWFLIGHTSLESSCOUK $OES JUST WHAT IT SAYS ON THE TIN WWWFLYNOWCOM 3IMPLE TO USE INDEPENDENT TRAVEL SITE OFFERING GOOD VALUE FARES WWWHOTWIRECOM "OOKINGS FROM THE 53 ONLY ,AST MINUTE SAVINGS OF UP TO FORTY PERCENT ON REGULAR PUBLISHED FARES WWWLASTMINUTECOM "OOKINGS FROM THE 5+ ONLY /FFERS GOOD LAST MINUTE HOLIDAY PACKAGE AND mIGHT ONLY DEALS WWWSKYAUCTIONCOM "OOKINGS FROM THE 53 ONLY !UCTIONS TICKETS AND TRAVEL PACKAGES USING A hSECOND BIDv SCHEME WWWSKYSCANNERNET 4HIS SITE PERFORMS A VERY EFlCIENT SEARCH OF BUDGET AND CHARTER mIGHTS FROM THE 5+ WWWTRAVELOCITYCOUK $ESTINATION GUIDES HOT WEB FARES AND BEST DEALS FOR CAR RENTAL ACCOMMODATION AND LODGING AS WELL AS FARES WWWTRAVELSHOPCOMAU !USTRALIAN WEBSITE OFFERING DISCOUNTED mIGHTS PACKAGES INSURANCE AND ONLINE BOOKINGS
0ACKAGES AND ORGANIZED TOURS 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA ARE PRIME DESTINATIONS IN MOST hSPECIALISTv )TALIAN PROGRAMMES AND n A DElNITE PLUS n MOST OF THESE HOLIDAYS ARE SOLD BY SMALL INDEPENDENTLY RUN TRAVEL COM PANIES (OLIDAYS ON THE MARKET MOSTLY FALL INTO ONE OF THE FOLLOWING CATEGORIES SAMPLE PRICES IN "RITISH POUNDS AND 53 DOLLARS s &LIGHT PLUS HOTEL 4HESE DEALS CAN BE EXCELLENT VALUE USUALLY FEATURING A GOOD THREE STAR HOTEL !LL IN PRICES FOR A WEEKS BED AND BREAKFAST IN &LORENCE FOR EXAMPLE START AT AROUND a PER PERSON PER WEEK RISING BY ABOUT a IN HIGH SEASON
s 6ILLAS AND FARMHOUSES .UMEROUS COM PANIES OFFER VILLA OR FARMHOUSE ACCOMMODA TION IN RURAL 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA CHARTER mIGHTS FERRY CROSSINGS OR mY DRIVES ARE USUALLY AVAILABLE AS PART OF A PACKAGE DEAL BUT ITS GENERALLY POSSIBLE TO BOOK JUST THE HOUSE IF YOU PREFER 4HIS IS ONE OF THE BOOM MARKETS FOR )TALIAN TOURISM SO YOU NEED TO BOOK WELL IN ADVANCE FOR THE SUMMER SEASON 0ROPER TIES VARY ENORMOUSLY FROM SMALL SIMPLE FARMHOUSES SLEEPING FOUR TO EIGHT PEOPLE
RIGHT UP TO CASTLES lTTED OUT TO ACCOMMO DATE GROUPS OF OR MORE RECKON ON PAY ING AT LEAST a PER PERSON PER WEEK FOR THE SIMPLEST PLACES AND CONSIDERABLY MORE THAN THAT IN *ULY AND !UGUST 2ENTAL PRICES USUALLY INCLUDE INSURANCE WATER AND ELECTRICITY AND SOMETIMES LINEN COOKING AND MAID SERVICE IN THE SMARTER PLACES #HECK CAREFULLY WHAT IS AND ISNT INCLUDED )TALIAN VILLA COMPANIES ARE NOTORIOUS FOR THEIR hADDED EXTRASv SO READ ALL PRINTED INFORMA TION DILIGENTLY 4HE TERM hVILLAv IS A LOOSE ONE YOUR DREAM MEDIEVAL RETREAT MAY TURN OUT TO BE A CONCRETE MONSTROSITY 6ILLAS AND FARM HOUSES OFTEN FORM PART OF COMPLEXES WITH APARTMENTS AND WINGS RENTED OUT TO VARIOUS GROUPS SO PRIVACY CAN BECOME AN ISSUE ITS COMMON TOO FOR THE OWNER TO LIVE ON OR NEAR THE PROPERTY #HECK THAT THE SWIMMING POOL ATTACHED TO THE VILLA IS FOR YOUR SOLE USE THE hSHARED POOLv IS VERY COMMON s 3PECIALIST HOLIDAYS !N INCREASING NUMBER OF OPERATORS OFFER WALKING TOURS RIDING HOLI DAYS CYCLING TRIPS ART AND ARCHEOLOGY HOLI DAYS AND FOOD AND WINE JAUNTS -ANY ARE GROUP TOURS AND MOST DONT COME CHEAP ACCOMMODATION FOOD LOCAL TRANSPORT AND THE SERVICES OF A GUIDE ARE NEARLY ALWAYS INCLUDED AND A WEEKS HALF BOARD HOLIDAY CAN COST a OR MORE PER PERSON !S A RESULT THERES A GROWING TREND FOR SMALL ER PACKAGED AND SELF GUIDED ACTIVITY TRIPS FOR INDIVIDUALS OR GROUPS OF FRIENDS PARTICULARLY AMONG WALKING AND CYCLING COMPANIES 3UCH TRIPS MAY BE HALF THE PRICE OF ESCORTED TRIPS TRANSPARENT PRICING POLICIES SHOULD ENABLE YOU TO SEE JUST HOW MUCH YOURE SPENDING AND WHERE YOUR MONEYS GOING s 3HORT BREAK DEALS &LORENCE IS A STANDBY IN MAJOR HOLIDAY COMPANIES h)TALIAN #ITY "REAKv PROGRAMMES RECKON ON SPENDING ABOUT ann PER PERSON FOR THREE NIGHTS IN A TWO OR THREE STAR HOTEL DEPENDING ON SEASON THOUGH YOU SHOULD BEAR IN MIND THAT LAST MINUTE BARGAINS CAN OFTEN BE FOUND !LWAYS CHECK PRECISELY WHERE YOUR HOTEL IS LOCATED CHEAPER PLACES MAY BE SOME WAY FROM THE CITY CENTRE 3OME COMPANIES HAVE CITY BREAKS TO 3IENA ,UCCA AND 0ISA s &LY DRIVE DEALS )F YOU WANT TO RENT A CAR IN )TALY ITS WELL WORTH CHECKING WITH TOUR OPERA
TORS BEFORE YOU LEAVE MOST mY DRIVE DEALS WORK OUT A LOT CHEAPER THAN RENTING ON THE SPOT
\
.O FRILLS AIRLINES IN THE 5+ INCLUDE 2YANAIR WHICH HAS REGULAR mIGHTS FROM ,ONDON 3TAN STED 'LASGOW AND ,IVERPOOL TO 0ISA "OLO GNA &ORLÖ 2OME #IAMPINO AND !NCONA WITH DEPARTURES OFTEN LINKED TO mIGHT ARRIVALS AT 3TANSTED FROM $UBLIN 3HANNON AND 0RESTWICK %ASY*ET ALSO mIES FROM "RISTOL TO 0ISA AND FROM 3TANSTED TO #IAMPINO WITH CONNECTIONS COMING INTO 3TANSTED FROM %DINBURGH 'LASGOW .EWCASTLE AND "ELFAST )N SUMMER *ET mIES FROM -ANCHESTER AND ,EEDS TO 0ISA AND 2OME AND 4HOMSON FROM "OURNEMOUTH #OVENTRY AND $ONCASTER TO 0ISA )F YOU BOOK WELL IN ADVANCE YOU CAN SOMETIMES lND TICKETS FOR AS LITTLE AS a RETURN FOR MID WEEK OFF PEAK mIGHTS THOUGH THESE ROCK BOTTOM PRICES TEND TO APPLY ONLY TO EARLY MORNING OR LATE EVENING mIGHTS &OR MORE REASONABLE mIGHT TIMES FROM THESE BUDGET AIRLINES YOURE LOOKING AT SOMETHING IN THE REGION OF an RETURN IN SUM MER AS LONG AS YOU MAKE YOUR RESERVATION WELL IN ADVANCE PRICES CAN RISE SO MUCH FOR LAST MINUTE BOOKINGS ON NO FRILLS AIRLINES IE WITHIN TWO WEEKS OF DEPARTURE DATE THAT THEY BECOME MORE EXPENSIVE THAN THEIR FULL SERVICE RIVALS 9OU MAY ALSO lND THAT A CHAR TER mIGHT IS A BETTER BARGAIN IN HIGH SEASON ITS WORTH CHECKING WITH A SPECIALIST AGENT OR SCOURING THE CLASSIlED SECTION OF THE WEEK END NEWSPAPERS FOR LAST MINUTE DEALS /F THE FULL SERVICE AIRLINES IN THE 5+ "RIT ISH !IRWAYS SERVES 0ISA SEVERAL TIMES DAILY OUT OF ,ONDON 'ATWICK AND -ANCHESTER AND !LITALIA mIES THERE VIA -ILAN OR 2OME ! RETURN mIGHT WITH !LITALIA OR "! FROM ,ONDON TO 0ISA IN LOW SEASON CAN COST FROM AROUND a WITH PRICES AT a AND UPWARDS TO AROUND a IN HIGH SEASON !GAIN IT PAYS TO BOOK AS FAR IN ADVANCE AS POSSIBLE AND TO KEEP YOUR EYES OPEN FOR SPECIAL OFFERS WHICH HAVE BECOME MORE NUMEROUS IN THE WAKE OF THE COMPETITION FROM THE NO FRILLS OUTlTS -ERIDIANA IS CURRENTLY THE ONLY AIRLINE WITH NON STOP mIGHTS FROM 'ATWICK TO &LOR ENCE 0ERÒTOLA THEIR TICKETS TEND TO BE MORE EXPENSIVE n FROM a OFF PEAK -ERIDIANA OPERATES A CONNECTING mIGHT FROM 0ERÒTOLA TO
" ! 3)#3 'ETTING THERE
&ROM THE 5+ AND )RELAND
0ERUGIA WHICH IS ALSO SERVED BY !LITALIA VIA -ILAN OR 2OME &OR mIGHTS TO 2OME &IUMICINO "RITISH !IR WAYS AND !LITALIA OPERATE DAILY FROM ,ONDON (EATHROW AND 'ATWICK WHILE "! mIES DAILY FROM -ANCHESTER AND lVE OR SIX TIMES A WEEK FROM "IRMINGHAM AND %DINBURGH 0RICES ARE MUCH THE SAME AS FOR 0ISA 4HERE ARE ALSO REGULAR "RITISH !IRWAYS mIGHTS FROM ,ONDON 'ATWICK TO "OLOGNA -ARCONI AIRPORT 4HIS IS GENERALLY A CHEAPER OPTION THAN mYING TO 0ISA OR 2OME AND BECAUSE "OLOGNA IS A LESS POPULAR DESTINA TION YOU CAN OFTEN lND SEATS WHEN THE 0ISA AND 2OME mIGHTS ARE SOLD OUT "OLOGNA AIRPORT IS A SHUTTLE BUS RIDE FROM "OLOGNA MAIN TRAIN STATION FROM WHERE &LORENCE IS AN HOURS RAIL JOURNEY AWAY &ORLÖ AIRPORT WHICH 2YANAIR SELLS AS "OLOGNA IS A GOOD DEAL FUR THER AWAY AND WILL ADD AN EXTRA HOUR ON TO YOUR JOURNEY &ROM )RELAND THE CHEAPEST TICKETS ARE ON THE 2YANAIR DAILY SERVICE FROM $UBLIN TO 0ISA SPECIAL OFFERS CAN BRING THE FARE DOWN AS LOW AS + BUT AT PEAK PERIODS YOU MIGHT lND YOURSELF PAYING lVE OR SIX TIMES THAT MUCH IF YOU DONT BOOK WELL IN ADVANCE &OR THOSE WILLING TO PAY A PREMIUM FOR COMFORT !ER ,INGUS HAS THREE mIGHTS A WEEK TO "OLOGNA -ARCONI AND THREE DAILY mIGHTS FROM $UBLIN DIRECT TO 2OME &IUMICINO !LITALIA COVERS THE SAME ROUTE THREE TO lVE TIMES A WEEK 9OU CAN lND RETURN DEALS FOR AROUND + IF YOU BOOK EARLY BUT PRICES ARE USUALLY SIGNIlCANTLY HIGHER +n
!IRLINES IN THE 5+ AND )RELAND !ER ,INGUS 5+ )RELAND WWWAERLINGUSIE !LITALIA 5+ )RELAND WWWALITALIACOM "RITISH !IRWAYS 5+ )RELAND WWWBACOM EASY*ET 5+ CALLS CHARGED AT PREMIUM RATE WWWEASYJETCOM *ET 5+ )RELAND WWWJETCOM -ERIDIANA 5+ WWW MERIDIANAIT 2YANAIR 5+ )RELAND WWWRYANAIRCOM 4HOMSON 5+ )RELAND WWWTHOMSONmYCOM
&LIGHT AND TRAVEL AGENTS IN THE 5+ AND )RELAND " ! 3)#3
\'ETTING THERE
!RAN 4RAVEL )NTERNATIONAL 'ALWAY HOMEPAGESIOLIE^ARANTVLARANMAINHTM 'OOD VALUE mIGHTS TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD #)% 4OURS )NTERNATIONAL $UBLIN WWWCIETOURSIE 'ENERAL mIGHT AND TOUR AGENT #O OP 4RAVEL #ARE 5+ WWW TRAVELCAREONLINECOM &LIGHTS AND HOLIDAYS &LIGHTBOOKERS 5+ WWW EBOOKERSCOM )RELAND WWW EBOOKERSIE ,OW FARES ON AN EXTENSIVE SELECTION OF SCHEDULED mIGHTS *OE 7ALSH 4OURS $UBLIN WWW JOEWALSHTOURSIE 'ENERAL BUDGET FARES AGENT -C#ARTHYS 4RAVEL #ORK WWWMCCARTHYSTRAVELIE 'ENERAL mIGHT AGENT .EENAN 4RAVEL $UBLIN WWW NEENANTRAVIE 3PECIALISTS IN %UROPEAN CITY BREAKS .ORTH 3OUTH 4RAVEL 5+ WWWNORTHSOUTHTRAVELCOUK &RIENDLY COMPETITIVE TRAVEL AGENCY OFFERING DISCOUNTED FARES WORLDWIDE 0ROlTS ARE USED TO SUPPORT PROJECTS IN THE DEVELOPING WORLD ESPECIALLY THE PROMOTION OF SUSTAINABLE TOURISM 0REMIER 4RAVEL $ERRY WWW PREMIERTRAVELUKCOM $ISCOUNT mIGHT SPECIALISTS 34! 4RAVEL 5+ WWW STATRAVELCOUK 7ORLDWIDE SPECIALISTS IN LOW COST mIGHTS AND TOURS FOR STUDENTS AND UNDER S THOUGH OTHER CUSTOMERS WELCOME 4OP $ECK 5+ WWW TOPDECKTRAVELCOUK ,ONG ESTABLISHED AGENT DEALING IN DISCOUNT mIGHTS 4RAILFINDERS 5+ WWW TRAILlNDERSCOUK $UBLIN WWW TRAILlNDERSIE /NE OF THE BEST INFORMED AND MOST EFlCIENT AGENTS FOR INDEPENDENT TRAVELLERS
'ENERAL PACKAGE OPERATORS IN THE 5+
#ITALIA WWWCITALIACOUK -ID RANGE THREE STAR AND SMARTER FOUR STAR HOTEL AND VILLA PACKAGES FROM A MAJOR AND LONG ESTABLISHED COMPANY #RYSTAL 0REMIER )TALY WWW CRYSTALITALYCOUK 7ELL PRICED HOTEL AND VILLA HOLIDAYS IN MANY 4USCAN AND 5MBRIAN DESTINATIONS PLUS CITY BREAKS TO &LORENCE AND 3IENA )TALIAN %XPRESSIONS WWW EXPRESSIONSHOLIDAYSCOUK 'OOD CHOICE OF TOP END ACCOMMODATION SOME IN TUCKED AWAY CORNERS OF THE REGION +IRKER (OLIDAYS WWW KIRKERHOLIDAYSCOM )NDEPENDENT OPERATOR RENOWNED FOR THEIR EXCELLENT CITY AND SHORT BREAK DEALS TO 4USCANY
-AGIC OF )TALY WWW MAGICOlTALYCOUK 7ITH #ITALIA THIS IS THE FRONTRUNNER AMONG THE PLETHORA OF MULTI SERVICE )TALIAN OPERATORS (OTEL AND VILLA PACKAGES INDIVIDUAL PROPERTIES h#ITY "REAKv DEALS TAILOR MADE ITINERARIES AND A BOOKING SERVICE FOR OPERA EVENTS TRAIN AND OTHER TICKETS 3OLOS (OLIDAYS WWW SOLOSHOLIDAYSCOUK (OLIDAYS IN 4USCANY FOR SINGLES AGED AND UPWARDS 3UNVIL (OLIDAYS WWWSUNVIL COUK #ITY BREAKS AND TAILOR MADE HOTEL AND VILLA PACKAGES
6ILLAS FARMHOUSES AND APARTMENTS &OR COMPANIES OFFERING VILLA FARMHOUSE ACCOMMODATION BUT NOT mIGHTS SEE P #AREFREE )TALY WWW CAREFREE ITALYCOM &ARMHOUSES AND VILLAS OFTEN IN SHARED COMPLEXES IN 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA ALSO HAS A RANGE OF SMALL HOTELS AND CITY APARTMENTS #OTTAGES TO #ASTLES WWW COTTAGESTOCASTLESCOM /VER PROPERTIES COTTAGES VILLAS AND APARTMENTS IN 4USCANY ALONE PLUS A MORE LIMITED SELECTION IN 5MBRIA #6 4RAVEL WWWCVTRAVEL COUK 6ILLAS AND FARMHOUSES AT THE TOP OF THE MARKET USUALLY WITH PRIVATE POOL )TALIAN #HAPTERS WWW VILLA RENTALSCOM 4HIS SUBDIVISION OF THE VERY UPMARKET !BERCROMBIE +ENT COMPANY HAS SOME SPECTACULAR VILLAS ON ITS BOOKS )TALIAN ,IFE WWWITALIANLIFE COUK (AS A HUGE DATABASE OF PROPERTIES IN 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA WITH A COMPREHENSIVE ONLINE SEARCH FACILITY TO lND JUST THE RIGHT ONE -EON 6ILLAS WWW MEONVILLASCOUK 3MALL SELECTION OF VILLAS ALL WITH POOLS IN ALL THE MORE POPULAR 4USCAN SPOTS 3IMPLY 4RAVEL WWW SIMPLYTRAVELCOUK -OSTLY SMALL STYLISH APARTMENTS GENERALLY SLEEPING TWO TO SIX PLUS A FEW VILLAS AND SMALL FAMILY RUN RURAL HOTELS
3PECIALIST TOUR OPERATORS IN THE 5+ !RT AND CULTURE HOLIDAYS !#% 3TUDY 4OURS WWW STUDY TOURSORG ! VARIETY OF MAINLY ART AND ARCHITECTURAL TOURS UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF GENUINE EXPERTS "ELLINI WWWBELLINITRAVEL COM 4AILOR MADE TOURS BY A COMPANY SPECIALIZING IN )TALY THAT CAN ARRANGE PRIVATE ACCESS TO ART COLLECTIONS AND PALAZZI
!4' WWWATG OXFORDCOUK 4HE BEST ALL INCLUSIVE ESCORTED WALKING HOLIDAYS IN 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA 4HEY ALSO RUN CHEAPER SELF GUIDED WALKING AND CYCLING TRIPS HOTEL BOOKINGS ARE MADE FOR YOU AND LUGGAGE IS TRANSPORTED %QUITOUR WWWRIDINGTOURS COM 'ROUP RIDING HOLIDAYS ON TRAILS AROUND 3IENA %XPLORE 7ORLDWIDE WWW EXPLORECOUK /FFERS A FORTNIGHTS CAMPING AND WALKING BETWEEN &LORENCE 3IENA AND 6OLTERRA AND A ONE WEEK #HIANTI EXCURSION (EADWATER WWWHEADWATER COM ! VARIETY OF GUIDED AND INDEPENDENT WALKING AND CYCLING HOLIDAYS IN 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA (& WWWHFHOLIDAYSCOUK ! CHOICE OF ONE AND TWO WEEK WALKING HOLIDAYS FROM A LONG ESTABLISHED COMPANY USING BASES IN 4USCANY AT .ORCIA !LBIANO AND 3AN 1UIRICO D/RCIA )NNTRAVEL WWWINNTRAVEL COUK 3ELF GUIDED WALKS AROUND THE 4USCAN AND 5MBRIAN HILLS PLUS MORE DEMANDING HIKES SUCH AS AN !PENNINE TRAIL FROM &LORENCE TO "OLOGNA .ATURETREK WWWNATURETREK COUK !CKNOWLEDGED LEADERS IN BIRDWATCHING BOTANICAL AND NATURAL HISTORY HOLIDAYS OFFERING SMALL GROUP TOURS OF THE 5MBRIAN AND 4USCAN COUNTRYSIDE 3HERPA WWW SHERPA WALKING HOLIDAYSCOUK /FFERS A SELECTION OF SELF GUIDED WALKS AND CYCLING TOURS IN 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA 7AYMARK WWW WAYMARKHOLIDAYSCOUK /NE OF THE LONGER ESTABLISHED COMPANIES WITH WALKS ACROSS )TALY INCLUDING 4USCANY
!RBLASTER #LARKE WWW ARBLASTERANDCLARKECOM 5PMARKET WINE TOURS IN 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA STAYING AT FOUR AND lVE STAR HOTELS AND WITH TASTINGS AT THE PREMIER ESTATES !4' WWWATG OXFORDCOUK 4RUFmE HUNTS IN 5MBRIA PLUS LANGUAGE COOKERY AND PAINTING COURSES BASED AT A DELIGHTFUL NINETEENTH CENTURY HOUSE IN THE COUNTRYSIDE OUTSIDE #OLLE DI 6AL D%LSA )TALIAN #OOKERY 7EEKS WWWITALIAN COOKERY WEEKSCOUK 3EVEN NIGHT COOKERY COURSES RUN BY 3USANNA 'ELMETTI n THE VENUES CHANGE EACH YEAR BUT 5MBRIA OR 4USCANY OFTEN FEATURE 4ASTING 0LACES WWW TASTINGPLACESCOM 4HE BEST OF SEVERAL COMPANIES OFFERING COOKING COURSES IN THE REGION ,EADING CHEFS SUCH AS !LISTAIR ,ITTLE AND 3OPHIE "RAIMBRIDGE LEAD ONE WEEK RESIDENTIAL COURSES AT COUNTRY HOUSES AND HOTELS IN 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA 7INETRAILS WWWWINETRAILS COUK %XERCISE AND INDULGENCE COMBINED TOURS LINK VINEYARD VISITS WITH GUIDED WALKS AND GOOD FOOD !N INDEPENDENT PROGRAMME IS ALSO AVAILABLE
\
7ALKING CYCLING AND RIDING
7INE AND COOKERY HOLIDAYS
" ! 3)#3 'ETTING THERE
)NSCAPE WWWINSCAPETOURS COUK 4USCAN AND 5MBRIAN TOWNS SOMETIMES FEATURE ON THE STUDY COURSES OFFERED BY THIS WELL ESTABLISHED COMPANY *-" 4RAVEL WWWJMB TRAVEL COUK 3PECIALISTS IN OPERA HOLIDAYS WITH PACKAGES TO &LORENCES MAJOR OPERA EVENTS AND THE -AGGIO -USICALE ,IGHT AND ,AND WWW LIGHTANDLANDCOUK 7EEK LONG PHOTOGRAPHIC HOLIDAYS IN 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA FOR CAMERA ENTHUSIASTS OF ALL STANDARDS 7ELL SCOUTED LOCATIONS PLUS TIME FOR SIGHTSEEING AND RELAXATION -ARTIN 2ANDALL WWW MARTINRANDALLCOM /NE OF THE BEST OPERATORS IN THE SECTOR IMAGINATIVE ART MUSIC AND CULTURAL TOURS RANGING FROM THREE TO TWELVE NIGHTS INCLUDING 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCA -EDICI 6ILLAS 'ARDENS &LORENCE 3IENA 3AN 'IMIGNANO 4USCAN (ILL 4OWNS AND &LORENCE 2EVISITED LESSER KNOWN SIGHTS AND PRIVATE PALACES
"Y TRAIN 4RAVELLING BY TRAIN TO )TALY WONT SAVE MUCH MONEY 4HE BEAUTY OF TRAIN TRAVEL AND TICK ETING HOWEVER IS THAT YOU CAN BREAK YOUR JOURNEY EN ROUTE 4HE EIGHTEEN HOUR JOURNEY TO &LORENCE COSTS AROUND a BUT SPECIAL OFFERS ARE ALWAYS WORTH CHECKING "EAR IN MIND THAT GOING VIA 0ARIS ON %UROSTAR YOU WILL HAVE TO LUG YOUR BAGS FROM THE 'ARE DU .ORD TO THE 'ARE DE ,YON $ISCOUNTS FOR UNDER S AND SPECIAL OFFERS ARE SOMETIMES AVAIL ABLE AND ADVANCE BOOKING IS ESSENTIAL !N ALTERNATIVE ROUTE IS TO USE THE CROSS #HANNEL FERRY AND CATCH SLOWER TRAINS THROUGH &RANCE AND )TALY BUT THIS WONT CUT COSTS SIGNIlCANTLY AND THE CONNECTING TRAINS FROM #ALAIS TO 0ARIS ARE NOTORIOUSLY BADLY TIMETABLED MANY ARRIVE TOO LATE FOR THE EVENING TRAIN TO &LOR ENCE MEANING AN OVERNIGHT STAY IN 0ARIS )F YOURE PLANNING TO INCLUDE )TALY AS PART OF A LONGER %UROPEAN TRIP YOU COULD INVEST IN A RAIL PASS THE )NTER 2AIL AND %URAIL PASSES OFFER A MONTHS UNLIMITED RAIL TRAVEL THROUGH OUT %UROPE BUT THEY MUST BE BOUGHT BEFORE LEAVING HOME 3EE h'ETTING AROUNDv P FOR DETAILS OF ALL RAIL PASSES INCLUDING THOSE FOR USE SOLELY ON THE )TALIAN RAIL NETWORK
" ! 3)#3
\'ETTING THERE
4RAIN INFORMATION
&ROM .ORTH !MERICA
%UROSTAR WWWEUROSTARCOM 2AIL %UROPE 5+ WWW RAILEUROPECOUK &IRST STOP FOR INFORMATION ON EVERYTHING TO DO WITH INTERNATIONAL TRAIN TRAVEL INCLUDING PURCHASE OF TICKETS AND PASSES 4RAINSEUROPE 5+ WWW TRAINSEUROPECOUK
4HERE ARE NO DIRECT mIGHTS FROM THE 53 OR #ANADA TO 0ISA OR &LORENCE BUT ITS EASY TO mY TO 2OME OR -ILAN -ALPENSA -80 AND PICK UP AN ONWARD mIGHT OR TRAIN FROM THERE !LITALIA AND $ELTA mY THE WIDEST CHOICE OF DIRECT ROUTES BETWEEN THE 53 AND )TALY WITH DAILY mIGHTS TO -ILAN FROM .EW 9ORK -IAMI #HICAGO AND "OSTON AND TO 2OME FROM .EW 9ORK /THER OPTIONS TO 2OME INCLUDE !MERICAN !IRLINES FROM #HICAGO AND !LITALIA AND !IR #ANADA FROM 4ORONTO -ANY %UROPEAN CARRIERS mY FROM MOST MAJOR 53 AND #ANADIAN CITIES VIA THEIR CAPITALS TO 2OME &LORENCE AND 0ISA 4HE CHEAPEST ROUND TRIP FARES TO 2OME TRAVELLING MIDWEEK IN LOW SEASON START AT AROUND FROM .EW 9ORK OR # FROM 4ORONTO RISING TO # DURING THE SUMMER !DD ANOTHER n FOR A CONNECTING mIGHT FROM 2OME OR -ILAN TO &LORENCE OR 0ISA n OR THERE ARE PLENTY OF FAST RAIL CONNECTIONS
"Y CAR FROM THE 5+ 4HERES NO ONE lXED ROUTE TO )TALY IF YOURE TRAVELLING WITH YOUR OWN VEHICLE 4HE BEST CROSS #HANNEL OPTIONS FOR MOST DRIVERS WILL EITHER BE THE STANDARD FERRY LINKS $OVER #AL AIS $OVER /STEND AND .EWHAVEN $IEPPE OR THE #HANNEL 4UNNEL ROUTE WITH %UROTUN NEL !NY TRAVEL AGENT CAN PROVIDE UP TO DATE CROSS #HANNEL SCHEDULES AND MAKE ADVANCE BOOKINGS n WHICH ARE ESSENTIAL IN HIGH SEASON !S REGARDS ROUTES FROM NORTH ERN &RANCE THE !LPINE ROUTE VIA 'ERMANY AND 3WITZERLAND IS PROBABLY THE QUICKEST AND CAN SAVE YOU MONEY AS 'ERMAN MOTORWAYS n UNLIKE THEIR &RENCH EQUIVALENTS n ARE GENERALLY TOLL FREE /THERWISE YOU COULD HEAD STRAIGHT ACROSS &RANCE TO #HAMONIX AND THE -ONT "LANC TUNNEL WHICH BRINGS YOU OUT NEAR 4URIN IN NORTHWEST )TALY 4HE !! AND 2!# PROVIDE COMPREHENSIVE ROUTE PLANNING SERVICES AND GENERAL ADVICE ON ALL ASPECTS OF DRIVING TO )TALY PLUS DETAILS OF USEFUL ORGANIZATIONS TO CONTACT WHEN YOURE THERE
#ROSS CHANNEL OPERATORS
%UROTUNNEL 5+ WWW EUROTUNNELCOM 3HUTTLE TRAIN VIA THE #HANNEL 4UNNEL FOR VEHICLES RUNNING CONTINUOUSLY BETWEEN &OLKESTONE AND #OQUELLES NEAR #ALAIS UP TO PER HR TAKES nMIN !RRIVE AT LEAST MIN BEFORE DEPARTURE 9OU CAN TURN UP AND BUY YOUR TICKET AT THE TOLL BOOTHS THOUGH AT BUSY TIMES BOOKING IS ADVISABLE 2ATES DEPEND ON THE SEASON TIME OF DAY AND LENGTH OF STAY ITS CHEAPER TO TRAVEL BETWEEN PM AND AM (IGHEST FARES ARE FOR WEEKEND DEPARTURES AND TRAVEL IN *ULY AND !UGUST 0/ &ERRIES 5+ WWW POFERRIESCOM $OVER TO #ALAIS 3EA &RANCE WWWSEAFRANCE COM $OVER TO #ALAIS 4RANSMANCHE &ERRIES WWWTRANSMANCHEFERRIESCOM .EWHAVEN TO $IEPPE
!IRLINES IN .ORTH !MERICA !IR #ANADA WWW AIRCANADACOM !IR &RANCE 53 #ANADA WWWAIRFRANCECOM !LITALIA 53 #ANADA WWWALITALIACOM !MERICAN !IRLINES WWW AACOM !USTRIAN WWWAUACOM "RITISH !IRWAYS WWW BACOM #ONTINENTAL WWW CONTINENTALCOM $ELTA WWWDELTACOM )BERIA WWWIBERIACOM +,-.ORTHWEST WWW KLMCOM ,UFTHANSA 53 #ANADA WWWLUFTHANSACOM 3WISS WWWSWISSCOM 5NITED WWWUNITEDCOM 53 !IRWAYS WWWUSAIRCOM 6IRGIN !TLANTIC WWW VIRGIN ATLANTICCOM
&LIGHT AND TRAVEL AGENTS IN .ORTH !MERICA !IRTECH OR WWWAIRTECHCOM 3TANDBY SEAT BROKER ALSO DEALS IN CONSOLIDATOR FARES AND COURIER mIGHTS
!BERCROMBIE +ENT WWWABERCROMBIEKENTCOM $ELUXE VILLAGE TO VILLAGE HIKING AND BIKING TOURS AS WELL AS RAIL JOURNEYS #LASSIC *OURNEYS WWW CLASSICJOURNEYSCOM (IKING AND COOKING TOURS #ROSS #ULTURE OR WWWCROSSCULTUREINCCOM 3MALL GROUP CULTURAL TOURS TO &LORENCE AND THE 4USCAN HILL TOWNS $ELTA 6ACATIONS WWW DELTAVACATIONSCOM #ITY BREAKS TO &LORENCE *OURNEYS )NTERNATIONAL WWWJOURNEYS INTLCOM 3EVEN DAY WALKING TOURS .EW &RONTIERS OR WWWNEWFRONTIERSCOM #ITY BREAKS AND INDEPENDENT PACKAGES 4RAVEL "OUND WWW BOOKTRAVELBOUNDCOM .UMEROUS PACKAGES TO &LORENCE INCLUDING A lVE NIGHT STAY WITH TICKETS BOOKED TO THE 5FlZI AND !CCADEMIA
&ROM !USTRALIA AND .EW :EALAND 4HERE ARE NO DIRECT mIGHTS TO )TALY FROM !US TRALIA OR .EW :EALAND BUT PLENTY OF AIRLINES mY TO 2OME VIA !SIAN HUBS 2OUND TRIP FARES FROM 3YDNEY WITH THE MAJOR AIRLINES !LITALIA 1ANTAS *APAN 3INGAPORE OR -ALAYSIAN ARE !n IN LOW SEASON !n IN HIGH SEASON 7ITH THE SAME CARRIERS FROM .EW :EALAND YOU CAN EXPECT TO PAY .: IN LOW SEASON .: IN HIGH SEASON
!LITALIA !USTRALIA .: WWWALITALIACOM "RITISH !IRWAYS !USTRALIA .: WWWBACOM #ATHAY 0ACIFIC !USTRALIA .: WWWCATHAYPACIlCCOM #HINA !IRLINES !USTRALIA .: WWWCHINA AIRLINESCOM 'ARUDA !USTRALIA OR .: WWW GARUDA INDONESIACOM *APAN !USTRALIA .: WWWJAPANAIRCOM -ALAYSIAN !USTRALIA .: OR WWWMALAYSIAAIRLINES COM 1ANTAS !USTRALIA .: OR WWWQANTASCOM 3INGAPORE !USTRALIA .: WWWSINGAPOREAIRCOM 3RI ,ANKAN !USTRALIA .: WWWSRILANKANAERO 4HAI !USTRALIA .: WWWTHAIAIRCOM
\
4OUR OPERATORS IN .ORTH !MERICA
!IRLINES IN !USTRALIA AND .:
" ! 3)#3 'ETTING THERE
%DUCATIONAL 4RAVEL #ENTER OR WWWEDTRAVCOM 3TUDENTYOUTH DISCOUNT AGENT 34! 4RAVEL 53 #ANADA WWWSTA TRAVELCOM 7ORLDWIDE SPECIALISTS IN INDEPENDENT TRAVEL ALSO STUDENT )$S TRAVEL INSURANCE CAR RENTAL RAIL PASSES AND MORE 3TUDENT &LIGHTS OR WWWISECARDCOM 3TUDENTYOUTH FARES STUDENT )$S 4&) 4OURS )NTERNATIONAL OR WWWLOWESTAIRPRICECOM #ONSOLIDATOR 4RAVELERS !DVANTAGE WWWTRAVELERSADVANTAGECOM $ISCOUNT TRAVEL CLUB ANNUAL MEMBERSHIP FEE REQUIRED CURRENTLY FOR MONTHS TRIAL 7ORLDTEK 4RAVEL WWW WORLDTEKCOM $ISCOUNT TRAVEL AGENCY FOR WORLDWIDE TRAVEL
&LIGHT AND TRAVEL AGENTS IN !USTRALIA AND .: !USTRALIAN 0ACIFIC 4OURING !USTRALIA OR .: WWW APTOURSCOM ,ONG ESTABLISHED AWARD WINNING OPERATOR RUNNING PACKAGE TOURS AND INDEPENDENT TRAVEL "UDGET 4RAVEL .: OR WWWBUDGETTRAVELCONZ #)4 !USTRALIA WWWCITTRAVEL COMAU )TALIAN SPECIALISTS WITH PACKAGES TO &LORENCE AND ELSEWHERE &LIGHT #ENTRE !USTRALIA WWW mIGHTCENTRECOMAU .: WWW mIGHTCENTRECONZ 3PECIALIZES IN DISCOUNT AIRFARES AND HOLIDAY PACKAGES .ORTHERN 'ATEWAY !USTRALIA WWWNORTHERNGATEWAYCOMAU 3ILKES 4RAVEL !USTRALIA WWW SILKESCOMAU 'AY AND LESBIAN SPECIALIST TRAVEL AGENT 34! 4RAVEL !USTRALIA WWW STATRAVELCOMAU .: WWW STATRAVELCONZ 3TUDENT 5NI 4RAVEL !USTRALIA 'REAT DEALS FOR STUDENTS 4RAILFINDERS !USTRALIA WWW TRAILlNDERSCOMAU /NE OF THE BEST INFORMED AND MOST EFlCIENT AGENTS FOR INDEPENDENT TRAVELLERS
" ! 3)#3
4RAVELCOM !USTRALIA WWW TRAVELCOMAU .: WWWTRAVEL CONZ #OMPREHENSIVE ONLINE TRAVEL COMPANY WITH DISCOUNTED FARES
4OUR OPERATORS IN !USTRALIA AND .:
\ 2ED TAPE AND VISAS
!BERCROMBIE AND +ENT !USTRALIA .: WWW ABERCROMBIEKENTCOMAU 5PMARKET TOURS
#ONTIKI (OLIDAYS !USTRALIA .: WWWCONTIKICOM &RENETIC TOURS FOR n YEAR OLD PARTY ANIMALS 6IATOUR !USTRALIA "OOKINGS FOR HUNDREDS OF TRAVEL SUPPLIERS 7ALKABOUT 'OURMET !DVENTURES !USTRALIA WWWWALKABOUTGOURMETCOM #LASSY FOOD WINE AND WALKING TOURS IN 4USCANY
2ED TAPE AND VISAS !LL %5 CITIZENS CAN ENTER )TALY AND STAY AS LONG AS THEY LIKE SIMPLY ON PRODUCTION OF A VALID PASSPORT #ITIZENS OF THE 5NITED 3TATES #ANADA !USTRALIA AND .EW :EA LAND NEED ONLY A VALID PASSPORT BUT ARE LIMITED TO STAYS OF NINETY DAYS !LL OTHER NATIONALS SHOULD CONSULT THE RELEVANT EMBASSIES ABOUT VISA REQUIREMENTS ,EGALLY YOURE REQUIRED TO REGISTER WITH THE POLICE WITHIN THREE DAYS OF ENTERING )TALY THOUGH IF YOURE STAYING AT A HOTEL THIS WILL BE DONE FOR YOU 3OME POLICEMEN ARE MORE PUNCTILIOUS ABOUT THIS THAN EVER THOUGH OTH ERS WOULD BE ASTONISHED BY ANY ATTEMPT TO REGISTER YOURSELF AT THE LOCAL POLICE STATION WHILE ON HOLIDAY
)TALIAN EMBASSIES AND CONSULATES ABROAD !USTRALIA %MBASSY 'REY 3T $EAKIN #ANBERRA !#4 WWWAMBITALIAORG AU #ONSULATES IN -ELBOURNE AND 3YDNEY #ANADA %MBASSY 3LATER 3T /TTAWA /. +0 ( WWWITALYINCANADA COM #ONSULATES IN -ONTRÏAL AND 4ORONTO )RELAND %MBASSY n .ORTHUMBERLAND 2D $UBLIN .EW :EALAND %MBASSY n 'RANT 2D 0/ "OX 4HORNDON 7ELLINGTON WWW ITALY EMBASSYORGNZ 5+ %MBASSY 4HREE +INGS 9ARD ,ONDON 79 %( WWWEMBITALYORGUK
#ONSULATES IN %DINBURGH AND -ANCHESTER 53 %MBASSY 7HITEHAVEN 3T .7 7ASHINGTON $# WWWITALYEMBORG #ONSULATES IN #HICAGO .EW 9ORK AND 3AN &RANCISCO
%MBASSIES AND CONSULATES IN )TALY !USTRALIA %MBASSY 6IA !LESSANDRIA 2OME WWWAUSTRALIAN EMBASSY IT #ANADA %MBASSY 6IA '" DE 2OSSI 2OME WWWCANADAIT )RELAND %MBASSY 0IAZZA DI #AMPITELLI 2OME .EW :EALAND %MBASSY 6IA :ARA 2OME 5+ %MBASSY 6IA 88 3ETTEMBRE A 2OME WWWBRITAINIT #ONSULATE IN &LORENCE ,UNGARNO #ORSINI 53 %MBASSY 6IA 6 6ENETO A 2OME WWWUSEMBASSYIT #ONSULATE IN &LORENCE ,UNGARNO 6ESPUCCI WWWUSISITmORENCE
-OST )TALIAN TOWNS MAJOR TRAIN STATIONS AND AIRPORTS HAVE A TOURIST OFlCE VARIOUSLY SIGNED AS h!04v !ZIENDA 0ROMOZIONE 4URIS TICA 3OME ARE MORE USEFUL AND HELPFUL THAN OTHERS BUT ALL SHOULD BE ABLE TO PROVIDE AT LEAST A TOWN PLAN AND LOCAL LISTINGS GUIDE )N SMALLER VILLAGES THERE IS SOMETIMES A h0RO ,OCOv OFlCE THAT HAS MUCH THE SAME KIND OF INFORMATION BUT WITH STAFF WHO ARE LESS LIKELY TO SPEAK %NGLISH /PENING HOURS ALSO VARY LARGER CITY AND RESORT OFlCES ARE LIKELY TO BE OPEN -ONn3AT AMnPM OFTEN CLOSING FOR AN HOUR AT LUNCH AND THEYRE SOMETIMES OPEN FOR A SHORT PERIOD ON 3UNDAY MORNINGS SMALLER OFlCES MAY OPEN WEEKDAYS ONLY WHILE TIMES FOR 0RO ,OCO OFlCES ARE NOTORI OUSLY ERRATIC n SOME OPEN FOR ONLY A COUPLE OF HOURS A DAY EVEN IN SUMMER
%.)4 OFlCES 7ORLDWIDE LISTING AT WWWENITIT !USTRALIA ,EVEL -ARKET 3T 3YDNEY .37 ENITOUR IHUGCOMAU #ANADA "LOOR 3T %AST 3OUTH 4OWER 4ORONTO /. -7 2 WWW ITALIANTOURISMCOM )RELAND .ORTHUMBERLAND 2D $UBLIN .EW :EALAND 'RANT 2D 4HORNDON 7ELLINGTON 5+ 0RINCES 3T ,ONDON 7" !9 WWWITALIANTOURISTBOARDCOUK 53 TH !VE .EW 9ORK .9 . -ICHIGAN !VE #HICAGO ), 7ILSHIRE "LVD ,OS !NGELES #! WWWITALIANTOURISMCOM
7EBSITES 6IRTUALLY EVERY TOWN COUNCIL IN 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA LARGE OR SMALL HAS ITS OWN WEBSITE THE MOST USEFUL OF THESE ARE LISTED IN THIS GUIDE BUT OTHERS CAN BE FOUND SIMPLY BY
TYPING THE NAME OF THE TOWN PLUS THE WORD hCOMUNEv INTO YOUR SEARCH ENGINE 3ITES ARE USUALLY UP TO DATE INCLUDE USEFUL INFORMA TION SUCH AS OPENING TIMES AND DETAILS OF FESTIVALS AND OFFER LINKS TO MORE SPECIALIZED SITES 7HAT FOLLOWS IS A LIST OF SOURCES FOR MORE GENERAL INFORMATION WWWENITIT )TALIAN 3TATE 4OURIST "OARD WWWTURISMOTOSCANAIT /FlCIAL WEBSITE OF THE 4USCAN TOURIST BOARD WWWTURISMOUMBRIAIT 4HE SAME FOR 5MBRIA WWWITWGCOM )TALYS RELIABLE AND COMPREHENSIVE TOURIST WEB GUIDE WITH UP TO DATE TRAVEL INFORMATION WWWZOOMATACOM % ZINE WITH LOADS OF INFORMATION ABOUT )TALY TODAY WWWTERRADITOSCANACOM 7ELL DESIGNED INFORMATIVE SITE COVERING EVERY ASPECT OF 4USCANY FROM WALKING AND SLEEPING TO WILD mOWERS AND LOCAL CUISINE WWWPARKSIT $ETAILS OF ALL THE NATIONAL AND REGIONAL PARKS IN 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA WWWCAMPINGIT $ETAILS OF VIRTUALLY EVERY CAMPSITE IN )TALY WWWMUSEIONLINEIT ,INKS TO MUSEUMS AND EXHIBITION SITES WWWTUSCANYDIRECTIT (UNDREDS OF LINKS TO 4USCANY WEB PAGES PLUS GENERAL TOURIST INFORMATION WWWUMBRIATRAVELCOM $ETAILED TRAVEL GUIDE TO 5MBRIA WWWFIRENZENET 5P TO DATE INFORMATION ON EVERYTHING THATS GOING ON IN &LORENCE EVENTS CONCERTS CINEMA NIGHTLIFE RESTAURANTS WWWPERUGIAONLINEIT 0ERUGIAS OFlCIAL WEBSITE WWWASSISIONLINEIT $ETAILED INFORMATION FOR VISITORS TO !SSISI WWWINTERNETTRAINIT #HAIN OF CYBERCAFÏS PRESENT IN MAJOR CITIES WWWLEGA CALCIOIT 5P TO DATE NEWS ON )TALIAN LEAGUE FOOTBALL WWWMETEOIT )TALIAN WEATHER FORECAST WWWPAGINEGIALLEIT )TALIAN YELLOW PAGES
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"EFORE YOU LEAVE HOME YOU MIGHT WANT TO CONTACT THE )TALIAN 3TATE 4OURIST /FlCE %.)4 FOR A SELECTION OF MAPS AND ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS n THOUGH YOU CAN USU ALLY PICK UP MUCH THE SAME INFORMATION FROM TOURIST OFlCES IN )TALY
" ! 3)#3 )NFORMATION WEBSITES AND MAPS
)NFORMATION WEBSITES AND MAPS
-APS
" ! 3)#3
\ )NFORMATION WEBSITES AND MAPS
/UR MAPS SHOULD BE lNE FOR MOST PURPOSES MOST TOURIST OFlCES HAND OUT MAPS OF THEIR LOCAL AREA AS WELL -ORE DETAILED MAPS ARE PRODUCED BY A MULTITUDE OF COMPANIES NOTA BLY )TALYS LEADING STREET PLAN PUBLISHER ,!# ,ITOGRAlA !RTISTICA #ARTOGRAlCA AND THE 4#) 4OURING #LUB )TALIANO WHICH ALSO PRODUCES THE COUNTRYS BEST ROAD MAPS IT HAS EXCELLENT INDEXED MAPS FOR BOTH 4USCANY 4OSCANA AND 5MBRIA 5MBRIA E -ARCHE ! LESS DETAILED ALTERNATIVE ON ONE SHEET IS &REYTAG "ERNDTS 4USCANY WHICH ALSO INCLUDES THE WHOLE OF 5MBRIA &OR HIKING MAPS GO FOR THE EVER EXPAND ING +OMPASS SERIES 4HE COMPANY PRODUCES SEVERAL 4USCANY MAPS INCLUDING &LORENCE #HIANTI 3IENA #OLLINE 3ENESI -AREMMA !RGENTARIO 6AL DI #HIANA #HIAN CIANO AND )SOLA D%LBA PLUS SOME 5MBRIAN ONES INCLUDING 0ERUGIA $ERUTA !SSISI #AME RINO 'UBBIO &ABRIANO AND -ONTI 3IBILLINI !LL THE MAJOR WALKING AREAS OF 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA ARE COVERED BY THE EXCELLENT -ULTIGRAPHIC 7ANDERKARTE SERIES THAT YOU CAN lND AT MOST BOOKSHOPS AND NEWSSTANDS ALONG WITH OTHER LOCAL MAPS THESE INCLUDE THE SHEET PUBLISHED BY THE CAV ING CLIMBING AND WALKING CLUB AT #OSTACCI ARO IN 5MBRIA NORTHEAST OF 'UBBIO AND THE 5NIVERSO MAP FOR THE AREA AROUND .ORCIA AND THE 3IBILLINI )TALYS OWN STATE PRO DUCED MAPS THE )'- SERIES ARE INCREDIBLY DETAILED BUT ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO lND MOST ALSO HAVENT BEEN UPDATED FOR DEC ADES
-AP OUTLETS 5+ AND )RELAND 3TANFORDS n ,ONG !CRE ,ONDON 7#% ,0
WWWSTANFORDSCOUK "LACKWELLS -AP AND 4RAVEL 3HOP "ROAD 3T /XFORD /8 "1 MAPS BLACKWELLCOUK SEE WEBSITE FOR BRANCHES ALL OVER THE 5+ %ASONS ,OWER /#ONNELL 3T $UBLIN WWWEASONIE -AP 3HOP A "ELVOIR 3T ,EICESTER ,% 1( WWWMAPSHOPLEICESTERCOUK
.ORTH !MERICA %LLIOT "AY "OOK #OMPANY 3 -AIN 3T 3EATTLE 7! WWW ELLIOTBAYBOOKCOM 'LOBE #ORNER #HURCH 3T #AMBRIDGE -! WWWGLOBECORNERCOM -AP ,INK 3 ,A 0ATERA ,ANE 5NIT 3ANTA "ARBARA #! OR WWWMAPLINKCOM 2AND -C.ALLY 53 WWW RANDMCNALLYCOM 7ORLD OF -APS 7ELLINGTON 3T /TTAWA /. +9 ! WWWWORLDOFMAPS COM
!USTRALIA AND .: -AP 3HOP n 0EEL 3T !DELAIDE 3! WWWMAPSHOPNETAU -AP 7ORLD !USTRALIA 0ITT 3T 3YDNEY WWWMAPWORLDNETAU !LSO AT (AY 3T 0ERTH *OLIMONT #ENTRE #ANBERRA AND ,OGAN 2OAD "RISBANE -AP 7ORLD .EW :EALAND 'LOUCESTER 3T #HRISTCHURCH WWWMAPWORLD CONZ -APLAND ,ITTLE "OURKE 3T -ELBOURNE 6)# WWWMAPLANDCOMAU 0ERTH -AP #ENTRE (AY 3T 0ERTH 7! WWWPERTHMAPCOMAU 3PECIALTY -APS !LBERT 3T !UCKLAND WWWUBDONLINECONZMAPS
"EFORE PAYING FOR A NEW POLICY HOWEVER ITS WORTH CHECKING WHETHER YOURE ALREADY COV ERED SOME ALL RISKS HOME INSURANCE POLICIES MAY COVER YOUR POSSESSIONS WHEN OVERSEAS AND MANY PRIVATE MEDICAL SCHEMES INCLUDE COVER WHEN ABROAD )N #ANADA PROVINCIAL HEALTH PLANS USUALLY PROVIDE PARTIAL COVER FOR MEDICAL MISHAPS OVERSEAS WHILE HOLD ERS OF OFlCIAL STUDENTTEACHERYOUTH CARDS IN #ANADA AND THE 53 ARE ENTITLED TO MEAGRE ACCIDENT COVERAGE AND HOSPITAL IN PATIENT BENElTS 3TUDENTS WILL OFTEN lND THAT THEIR STUDENT HEALTH COVERAGE EXTENDS DURING THE VACATIONS AND FOR ONE TERM BEYOND THE DATE OF LAST ENROLLMENT !FTER EXHAUSTING THE POSSIBILITIES ABOVE YOU MIGHT WANT TO CONTACT A SPECIALIST TRAVEL INSURANCE COMPANY OR CONSIDER 2OUGH 'UIDES OWN TRAVEL INSURANCE DEAL SEE BOX ! TYPICAL TRAVEL INSURANCE POLICY USUALLY PRO VIDES COVER FOR THE LOSS OF BAGGAGE TICKETS AND n UP TO A CERTAIN LIMIT n CASH OR CHEQUES AS WELL AS CANCELLATION OR CURTAILMENT OF YOUR JOURNEY -OST EXCLUDE SO CALLED DANGEROUS SPORTS UNLESS AN EXTRA PREMIUM IS PAID IN )TALY THIS CAN MEAN SCUBA DIVING WINDSURlNG
OR TREKKING )F YOU DO TAKE MEDICAL COVERAGE ASCERTAIN WHETHER BENElTS WILL BE PAID AS TREATMENT PROCEEDS OR ONLY AFTER YOU RETURN HOME AND WHETHER THERE IS A HOUR MEDI CAL EMERGENCY NUMBER 7HEN SECURING BAG GAGE COVER MAKE SURE THAT THE PER ARTICLE LIMIT n TYPICALLY UNDER a n WILL COVER YOUR MOST VALUABLE POSSESSION )F YOU NEED TO MAKE A CLAIM YOU SHOULD KEEP RECEIPTS FOR MEDICINES AND MEDICAL TREATMENT AND IN THE EVENT YOU HAVE ANYTHING STOLEN YOU MUST OBTAIN AN OFlCIAL STATEMENT FROM THE POLICE EITHER POLIZIA OR CARABINIERI
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%VEN THOUGH %5 HEALTH CARE PRIVILEGES APPLY IN )TALY YOUD DO WELL TO TAKE OUT AN INSURANCE POLICY BEFORE TRAVELLING TO COVER AGAINST THEFT LOSS AND ILLNESS OR INJURY
" ! 3)#3 )NSURANCE AND HEALTH
)NSURANCE AND HEALTH
(EALTH )F YOURE ARRIVING IN )TALY FROM ELSEWHERE IN %UROPE .ORTH !MERICA OR !USTRALASIA YOU DONT NEED ANY JABS #ITIZENS OF ALL %5 COUNTRIES ARE ENTITLED TO EMERGENCY MEDICAL CARE UNDER THE SAME TERMS AS THE RESIDENTS OF THE COUNTRY &OR "RITISH CITIZENS THIS USED TO MEAN PRESENTING A STAMPED % FORM BUT IN LATE THIS WAS PHASED OUT AND REPLACED BY THE NEW %UROPEAN (EALTH )NSURANCE #ARD %()# VALID FOR lVE YEARS !S WITH THE % THIS CAN BE APPLIED FOR
2OUGH 'UIDES TRAVEL INSURANCE 2OUGH 'UIDES HAS TEAMED UP WITH #OLUMBUS $IRECT TO OFFER YOU TRAVEL INSURANCE THAT CAN BE TAILORED TO SUIT YOUR NEEDS 2EADERS CAN CHOOSE FROM MANY DIFFERENT TRAVEL INSURANCE PRODUCTS INCLUDING A LOW COST BACKPACKER OPTION FOR LONG STAYS A SHORT BREAK OPTION FOR CITY GETAWAYS A TYPICAL HOLIDAY PACKAGE OPTION AND MANY OTHERS 4HERE ARE ALSO ANNUAL MULTI TRIP POLICIES FOR THOSE WHO TRAVEL REGULARLY WITH VARIABLE LEVELS OF COVER AVAILABLE $IFFERENT SPORTS AND ACTIVITIES TREKKING SKIING ETC CAN BE COVERED IF REQUIRED ON MOST POLICIES 2OUGH 'UIDES TRAVEL INSURANCE IS AVAILABLE TO THE RESIDENTS OF DIFFERENT COUNTRIES WITH DIFFERENT LANGUAGE OPTIONS TO CHOOSE FROM VIA OUR WEBSITE n WWW ROUGHGUIDESINSURANCECOM n WHERE YOU CAN ALSO PURCHASE THE INSURANCE !LTERNATIVELY 5+ RESIDENTS SHOULD CALL 53 CITIZENS AND !USTRALIANS !LL OTHER NATIONALITIES SHOULD CALL
" ! 3)#3
\ #OSTS MONEY AND BANKS
FREE OF CHARGE AT 5+ POST OFlCES 4HE LAT EST INFORMATION IS AVAILABLE ONLINE AT WWW DOHGOVUKTRAVELADVICE .OTE HOWEVER THAT THE %()# WONT COVER THE FULL COST OF MAJOR TREATMENT AND THE HIGH CHARGES FOR MEDICAL TREATMENT MAKE TRAVEL INSURANCE ESSENTIAL 9OU NORMALLY HAVE TO PAY THE FULL COST OF EMERGENCY TREATMENT UPFRONT n WHICH NEVER COMES CHEAP n AND CLAIM IT BACK WHEN YOU GET HOME MINUS A SMALL EXCESS MAKE VERY SURE YOU HANG ONTO FULL DOCTORS REPORTS SIGNED PRESCRIPTION DETAILS AND ALL RECEIPTS TO BACK UP YOUR CLAIM !N )TALIAN PHARMACIST FARMACIA IS WELL QUALIlED TO GIVE ADVICE ON MINOR AILMENTS AND TO DISPENSE PRESCRIPTIONS THERES GEN ERALLY ONE OPEN ALL NIGHT IN THE BIGGER TOWNS AND CITIES 4HEY WORK ON A ROTA SYSTEM AND THE ADDRESS OF THE ONE CURRENTLY OPEN IS POSTED ON ANY FARMACIA DOOR )F YOU REQUIRE A DOCTOR MÏDICO ASK FOR HELP IN THE lRST INSTANCE AT YOUR HOTEL OR THE LOCAL TOURIST OFlCE !LTERNATIVELY LOOK IN THE 9ELLOW 0AGES 0AGINE 'IALLE SOME LARGER TOWNS HAVE %NG
LISH SPEAKING DOCTORS SPECIlCALLY EARMARKED TO HELP VISITORS &OLLOW A SIMILAR PROCEDURE IF YOU HAVE DENTAL PROBLEMS +EEP ALL RECEIPTS FOR TREATMENT OR MEDICINES FOR LATER INSURANCE CLAIMS )F YOU ARE TAKEN SERIOUSLY ILL OR INVOLVED IN AN ACCIDENT GO TO THE 0RONTO 3OCCORSO #ASUALTY!% SECTION OF THE NEAREST HOS PITAL IN A REAL EMERGENCY PHONE AND ASK FOR OSPEDALE OR AMBULANZA -AJOR TRAIN STATIONS AND AIRPORTS OFTEN HAVE lRST AID FACILITIES WITH QUALIlED DOCTORS ON HAND !S FOR POTENTIAL HEALTH RISKS SHOULD YOU BE WALKING THROUGH LONG GRASS OR RUMMAG ING AROUND IN OLD FARM BUILDINGS KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR VIPERS VIPERI THE ONLY SNAKES IN )TALY WITH A POTENTIALLY FATAL BITE )F YOURE BITTEN YOU MUST GET TO A 0RONTO 3OCCORSO AS QUICKLY AS POSSIBLE PHARMACIES DO NOT USUALLY STOCK THE SERUM -OSQUITOES ZANZARE CAN BE A NUI SANCE BETWEEN *UNE AND 3EPTEMBER ESPE CIALLY IN LOW LYING AREAS ON OR NEAR THE COAST MOST SUPERMARKETS AND PHARMACIES SELL SPRAYS MOSQUITO COILS AND AFTER BITE CREAM
#OSTS MONEY AND BANKS 4HE DAYS ARE LONG GONE WHEN )TALY WAS A RELATIVELY INEXPENSIVE COUNTRY TO VISIT THE GLUT OF VISITORS AND ROUNDING UP EFFECT OF THE INTRODUCTION OF THE EURO HAVE CONSPIRED TO INCREASE PRICES !CCOMMODATION RATES IN PARTICULAR HAVE SOARED
)TALY IS ONE OF TWELVE %UROPEAN 5NION COUNTRIES WHOSE CURRENCY IS THE EURO + COMPOSED OF CENTS 4HERE ARE NOTES OF + + + + + + AND + EACH A DIFFER ENT COLOUR AND COINS OF + + C C C C C AND C #OINS IN THE EUROZONE !USTRIA "ELGIUM &INLAND &RANCE 'ERMANY 'REECE )RELAND )TALY ,UXEMBOURG THE .ETH ERLANDS 0ORTUGAL AND 3PAIN HAVE A COMMON DESIGN ON ONE FACE BUT DIFFERENT COUNTRY SPE CIlC DESIGNS ON THE OTHER REGARDLESS OF THE DESIGN ALL ARE LEGAL TENDER THROUGHOUT !N INCREASING NUMBER OF TOURIST CENTRES HAVE AUTOMATIC MONEY CHANGING MACHINES NOTES ONLY /THERWISE THE PLACE TO CHANGE MONEY OR TRAVELLERS CHEQUES IS AT A BANK THOUGH
THE PROCESS CAN SOMETIMES BE EXCRUCIATINGLY SLOW 4HERE ARE A FEW BANKING CHAINS THAT YOULL lND NATIONWIDE n "ANCA .AZIONALE DEL ,AVORO "ANCA D)TALIA AND #ASSA DI 2ISPARMIO n AS WELL AS REGIONAL CHAINS LIKE THE -ONTE DEI 0ASCHI DI 3IENA "ANKING HOURS ARE NOR MALLY -ONn&RI AMnPM PLUS AN HOUR IN THE AFTERNOON USUALLY nPM THOUGH THERE ARE LOCAL VARIATIONS /THERWISE YOU CAN CHANGE MONEY AT LARGER HOTELS OR ANY BUREAU DE CHANGE CAMBIO
4RAVELLERS CHEQUES CREDIT AND DEBIT CARDS !LTHOUGH ITS A GOOD IDEA TO HAVE SOME CASH WHEN YOU lRST ARRIVE AND BE SURE TO
!VERAGE COSTS -OST BASICS ARE INEXPENSIVE DELICIOUS PICNIC MEALS CAN BE PUT TOGETHER FOR UNDER a AND A PIZZA OR PLATE OF PASTA IN A CHEAP PIZ ZERIA OR TRATTORIA WILL COME TO AROUND a ON AVERAGE (OWEVER IN MOST RESTAURANTS IN &LORENCE AND 3IENA YOULL BE LUCKY TO PAY LESS THAN + A HEAD FOR A THREE COURSE MEAL WITH WINE AND PRICES ARE RARELY MUCH LOWER IN SMALLER TOWNS 0UBLIC TRANSPORT IS GOOD VALUE THE TRAIN JOURNEY FROM &LORENCE TO 3IENA KM COSTS AROUND a FOR A SECOND CLASS RETURN 7INE IS CHEAP BUT OTHER DRINKS ARE NOT EPSECIALLY BEER WHICH CAN COST AS MUCH AS a PER PINT !CCOM MODATION IN &LORENCE AND 3IENA IS EXPENSIVE WITH ROOM RATES STARTING AT AROUND a FOR A DOUBLE ROOM IN A ONE STAR HOTEL /VERALL IF YOURE REALLY WATCHING YOUR BUDG ET n CAMPING HITCHING A LITTLE BUYING FOOD FROM SHOPS AND MARKETS n YOU COULD GET BY ON AROUND a PER PERSON PER DAY A MORE REALISTIC AVERAGE MINIMUM DAILY BUDGET FOR A COUPLE STAYING IN ONE STAR HOTELS AND EATING ONE MODEST PRICED MEAL OUT A DAY WOULD BE IN THE REGION OF a PER PER SON )F YOU WANT TO ALLOW YOURSELF THE OCCA SIONAL EXTRAVAGANCE OR AN INTENSIVE BOUT OF MUSEUM VISITING THEN YOULL NEED a PER DAY n AND IN VIEW OF THE DISPROPORTIONATE COST OF SINGLE HOTEL ROOMS A PERSON TRAVEL LING ALONE CAN EXPECT THIS lGURE TO INCREASE BY ABOUT TWENTY lVE PERCENT )N *ULY AND !UGUST PRICES ESCALATE ALONG THE COAST AND ON THE ISLANDS SO BEAR IN MIND THAT EVEN CAMPING CAN BECOME AN EXPENSIVE OPTION IN HIGH SEASON 9OUTHSTUDENT )$ CARDS SOON PAY FOR THEMSELVES IN SAVINGS PRINCIPALLY ON INTERNA TIONAL AIR RAIL AND BUS FARES LOCAL TRANSPORT ACCOMMODATION ENTERTAINMENT ADMISSION TO LARGER MUSEUMS AND ATTRACTIONS AND
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SELECT YOURSELF #ITICORP AND 4HOMAS #OOK )NTERPAYMENT OUTLETS SELL THE CARD WORLDWIDE SEE THE WEBSITE 7HEN YOUR MONEY RUNS OUT YOU JUST THROW THE CARD AWAY 3INCE YOU CAN BUY UP TO NINE CARDS TO ACCESS THE SAME FUNDS n USEFUL FOR FAMILIES TRAVELLING TOGETHER n ITS RECOMMENDED THAT YOU BUY AT LEAST ONE EXTRA CARD AS A BACK UP IN CASE YOUR lRST IS LOST OR STOLEN 4HE HOUR 6ISA CUSTOMER SERVICE LINE FROM )TALY IS
" ! 3)#3 #OSTS MONEY AND BANKS
SHOP AROUND FOR THE BEST EXCHANGE DEAL ON CASH n RATES CAN VARY BY AS MUCH AS PERCENT ITS SAFER TO BRING YOUR MONEY IN THE FORM OF TRAVELLERS CHEQUES AVAILABLE FROM ANY BANK OR POST OFlCE IN THE 5+ AND FROM MOST BANKS ELSEWHERE IN VARIOUS BRANDS !MERICAN %XPRESS WWWAMERICANEXPRESS COM 4HOMAS #OOK WWWTHOMASCOOK COM OR 6ISA WWWVISACOM 4HE USUAL FEE FOR TRAVELLERS CHEQUE SALES IS ONE OR TWO PERCENT THOUGH THIS FEE MAY BE WAIVED IF YOU BUY THE CHEQUES THROUGH A BANK WHERE YOU HAVE AN ACCOUNT )T PAYS TO GET A SELEC TION OF DENOMINATIONS -AKE SURE YOU KEEP THE PURCHASE AGREEMENT AND A RECORD OF CHEQUE SERIAL NUMBERS SAFE AND SEPARATE FROM THE CHEQUES THEMSELVES )N THE EVENT THAT CHEQUES ARE LOST OR STOLEN THE ISSUING COMPANY WILL EXPECT YOU TO REPORT THE LOSS FORTHWITH TO THEIR OFlCE IN )TALY MOST COMPA NIES CLAIM TO REPLACE LOST OR STOLEN CHEQUES WITHIN HOURS 9OULL USUALLY PAY A SMALL COMMISSION WHEN YOU EXCHANGE STERLING OR DOLLAR TRAVELLERS CHEQUES n AGAIN AROUND PERCENT OF THE AMOUNT CHANGED ALTHOUGH SOME BANKS WILL MAKE A STANDARD CHARGE PER CHEQUE REGARDLESS OF ITS DENOMINATION 9OU SHOULDNT HAVE TO PAY THIS COMMISSION IN )TALY IF YOU ARE USING EURO TRAVELLERS CHEQUES #REDIT AND DEBIT CARDS CAN BE USED EITHER IN AN !4- BANCOMAT OR OVER THE COUNTER -ASTERCARD 6ISA AND !MERICAN %XPRESS ARE ACCEPTED IN MOST LARGER CITY STORES HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS BUT SOME PETROL STATIONS AND SMALLER ESTABLISHMENTS MAY BE RELUCTANT TO ACCEPT PLASTIC CASH STILL REIGNS SUPREME IN PARTS OF )TALY SO CHECK lRST BEFORE EMBARK ING ON A BIG MEAL OUT !4-S ARE FOUND EVEN IN SMALL TOWNS AND MOST ACCEPT ALL MAJOR CARDS "E AWARE HOWEVER THAT NEARLY ALL BANKS MAKE SUBSTANTIAL CHARGES FOR CASH WITHDRAWALS FROM !4-S ABROAD n YOU COULD lND YOURSELF PAYING A FEE AS HIGH AS PER CENT OF THE AMOUNT TAKEN OUT 6ISA 4RAVEL-ONEY SEE WWWVISA COM COMBINES THE SECURITY OF TRAVELLERS CHEQUES WITH THE CONVENIENCE OF PLASTIC )TS A DISPOSABLE DEBIT CARD CHARGED UP BEFORE YOU LEAVE HOME WITH WHATEVER AMOUNT YOU LIKE SEPARATE FROM YOUR NORMAL BANKING OR CREDIT ACCOUNTS 9OU CAN THEN ACCESS THESE DEDICATED TRAVEL FUNDS FROM ANY !4- THAT ACCEPTS 6ISA WORLDWIDE WITH A 0). THAT YOU
" ! 3)#3
SOME FOOD OUTLETS AND COURSES IN &LORENCE 3IENA AND 0ERUGIA &ULL TIME STUDENTS ARE ELIGIBLE FOR THE )NTERNATIONAL 3TUDENT )$ #ARD )3)# ANYBODY AGED OR LESS QUALIlES FOR THE )NTERNATIONAL 9OUTH 4RAVEL #ARD AND TEACHERS QUALIFY FOR THE )NTERNATIONAL 4EACH
ER #ARD n ALL CARRYING THE SAME BENElTS #HECK WWWISICORG FOR DETAILS OF OUTLETS SELLING THE CARDS 2EDUCTIONS AND DISCOUNTS FOR UNDER S AND OVER S ARE ALSO USUALLY AVAILABLE IN MAJOR TOWNS AS WELL AS FOR ENTRY INTO STATE MUSEUMS
\ 'ETTING AROUND
'ETTING AROUND 5SE OF A CAR IS A MAJOR ADVANTAGE IF YOU WANT TO TRAVEL EXTENSIVELY AROUND 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA 9OU CAN STILL GET TO ALL THE MAJOR PLACES BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT BUT AWAY FROM MAIN ROUTES SERVICES CAN BE SLOW AND SPORADIC )N GENERAL TRAINS ARE MORE CONVENIENT FOR LONGER JOURNEYS BUSES FOR LOCAL ROUTES 4HROUGHOUT THE GUIDE h4RAVEL DETAILSv AT THE END OF EACH CHAPTER LISTS LOCAL BUS AND TRAIN INFORMATION
"Y TRAIN
4HE TRAIN SERVICE OFFERED BY )TALIAN 3TATE 2AILWAYS 4RENITALIA BUT STILL OFTEN REFERRED TO AS &ERROVIE DELLO 3TATO OR &3 BETWEEN MAJOR TOWNS AND CITIES IS RELATIVELY INEXPENSIVE REASONABLY COMPREHENSIVE AND n DESPITE ITS REPUTATION n FAIRLY EFlCIENT &OR EXTENSIVE TRAIN TRAVEL IN 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA HOWEVER ITS WORTH BEARING IN MIND THAT ALTHOUGH CIT IES SUCH AS &LORENCE AND 0ISA HAVE CENTRALLY LOCATED STATIONS MANY TOWNS DO NOT USUALLY STATIONS ARE INCONVENIENTLY SITUATED A GOOD BUS RIDE AWAY FROM TOWN CENTRES EVEN AT IMPORTANT HEAVILY VISITED PLACES SUCH AS 3IENA AND -ONTEPULCIANO 4O ADD INSULT TO INJURY YOULL OFTEN lND THE VAGARIES OF TIME TABLES AND ROUTINGS FORCING YOU TO CHANGE TRAINS IN OTHERWISE DULL LITTLE TOWNS SUCH AS 4ERONTOLA OR /RTE 0ERHAPS MOST IMPORTANTLY PLENTY OF QUITE IMPORTANT PLACES 'UBBIO THE #HIANTI DISTRICT AND WHOLE SWATHES OF SOUTHERN 4USCANY AND EASTERN 5MBRIA ARE INACCESSIBLE BY TRAIN %UROCITY TRAINS %# CONNECT MAJOR CITIES ACROSS %UROPE PERHAPS STOPPING AT ONLY TWO OR THREE PLACES IN EACH COUNTRY #IS ALPINO #)3 OPERATES TILTING 0ENDOLINO TRAINS ON TRANS !LPINE ROUTES BETWEEN 3WITZERLAND 'ERMANY AND )TALY %UROSTAR )TALIA %3 RUNS BETWEEN MAJOR CITIES AND IS FASTER AND MORE EFlCIENT THAN )NTERCITY )# TRAINS 9OU NEED
TO RESERVE FOR ALL THESE SERVICES AND PAY A SUPPLEMENT OF ABOUT THIRTY PERCENT OF THE ORDINARY FARE 4HERE ARE NO SUPPLEMENTS FOR THE %SPRESSO %8 MEDIUM FAST TRAINS THAT STOP AT MAJOR TOWNS AND CITIES )NTERREGION ALI )2 SIMILAR TO THE %SPRESSO BUT USUALLY WITH MORE STOPS OR 2EGIONALI 2EG SLOW TRAINS THAT GENERALLY STOP AT EVERY STATION !T TRAIN STATIONS SEPARATE POSTERS ARE USED FOR DEPARTURES PARTENZE n USUALLY YELLOW AND ARRIVALS ARRIVI n USUALLY WHITE BE CAREFUL NOT TO CONFUSE THE TWO &LORENCES MAIN STATION HAS A LARGE INFORMATION CENTRE )F YOURE PLANNING TO TRAVEL EXTENSIVELY BY TRAIN ITS WORTH BUYING A COPY OF THE TWICE YEARLY )N 4RENO )N 4UTT)TALIA TIMETABLE + WHICH COVERS THE MAIN ROUTES AND IS NORMALLY ON SALE AT TRAIN STATION NEWSSTANDS MAKE SURE THE BOOKLET IS VALID DURING THE PERIOD IN WHICH YOU WANT TO TRAVEL 0AY ATTENTION TO THE TIMETABLE NOTES WHICH MAY SPECIFY THE DATES BETWEEN WHICH SOME SERVICES RUN hSI EFFETUA DAL ALv OR WHETHER A SERVICE IS SEASONAL PERIODICO 4HE TERM GIORNALIERO MEANS THE SERVICE RUNS DAILY FERIALE FROM -ONDAY TO 3ATURDAY FESTIVI ON 3UNDAYS AND HOLIDAYS ONLY )N ADDITION TO THE ROUTES OPERATED BY &3 THERE ARE A NUMBER OF PRIVATELY RUN LINES OFTEN USING SEPARATE STATIONS THOUGH CHARGING SIMI LAR FARES IN CASES WHERE A PRIVATE LINE USES AN &3 STATION SUCH AS AT !REZZO OR 4ERNI THERE MAY OFTEN BE A SEPARATE TICKET COUNTER
&LORENCE IS THE CENTRE OF THE 4USCAN RAIL NET WORK 4WO LINES RUN WESTWARDS FROM THE CITY ONE OF THEM PASSING THROUGH 0RATO 0ISTOIA -ONTECATINI AND ,UCCA ON ITS WAY TO THE COAST AT 6IAREGGIO THE OTHER GOING THROUGH %MPOLI AND 0ISA BEFORE REACHING THE SEA AT ,IVORNO &ROM ,UCCA A PICTURESQUE LINE RUNS THROUGH THE 'ARFAGNANA TO !ULLA PROVIDING ACCESS TO THE ,UNIGIANA REGION AND CONNEC TIONS TO ,A 3PEZIA AND -ILAN 4O THE EAST A LINE RISES THROUGH THE -UGELLO DISTRICT AND THEN LOOPS OUT OF 4USCANY TOWARDS &AENZA ROUGHLY PARALLEL TO THE ROUTE THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS TO "OLOGNA 3OUTH OF &LORENCE MAINLINE TRAINS FOLLOW THE 2IVER !RNO TO !REZZO THEN SOUTH PAST #ORTONA TO #HIUSI /RVIETO AND 2OME &ROM !REZZO A PRIVATE LINE BRANCHES UP INTO THE #ASENTINO REGION *UST BEYOND #ORTONA 4ERONTOLA MARKS THE JUNCTION FOR THE BRANCH LINE EAST TO 0ERUGIA THE FULCRUM OF 5MBRIAS NETWORK SEVERAL TRAINS A DAY RUN DIRECTLY FROM &LORENCE TO 0ERUGIA AND ON TO &OLIGNO AND 3POLETO 4RAINS ALSO RUN DIRECTLY FROM &LORENCE TO 3IENA n SOMETIMES WITH A CHANGE AT %MPOLI n ALTHOUGH THE DIRECT BUS JOURNEY IS QUICKER AND EASIER &ROM 3IENA TRAIN ROUTES CONTINUE SOUTHEAST TO #HIUSI AND SOUTHWEST TO 'ROSSETO -AINLINE TRAINS FROM 2OME TO 'ENOA RUN ALONG n OR JUST INLAND FROM n THE 4USCAN COAST ON A ROUTE LINKING /RBETELLO 'ROS SETO ,IVORNO 0ISA 6IAREGGIO AND THE RESORTS OF THE 6ERSILIA COAST PRINCIPALLY -ASSA AND #ARRARA !T #ECINA NEAR ,IVORNO THERES A SPUR INLAND TO WITHIN A FEW KILOMETRES OF 6OLTERRA WHERE THE LINE ABRUPTLY ENDS !LL 5MBRIAS MAJOR TOWNS WITH THE EXCEP TION OF 'UBBIO ARE EASILY ACCESSIBLE BY TRAIN )N THE WEST THE 2OMEn&LORENCE ROUTE IS THE MAIN ARTERY WITH BRANCH LINE CONNECTIONS THROUGHOUT THE REGION -OST OF THE HIGH SPEED SERVICES BETWEEN THE TWO CITIES STOP
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4RAIN SERVICES IN 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA
AT NO 5MBRIAN STATIONS OTHER THAN /RVIETO YOULL PROBABLY HAVE TO CHANGE ONTO A SLOWER TRAIN IN ORDER TO REACH THE JUNCTION TOWNS OF /RTE FOR .ARNI AND 3POLETO #HIUSI FOR 3IENA OR 4ERONTOLA FOR 0ERUGIA AND !SSISI &ROM /RTE JUST OVER THE ,AZIO BORDER IN THE SOUTH TRAINS RUN THROUGH THE HEART OF 5MBRIA VIA .ARNI 4ERNI TERMINUS OF THE LINE SEE BELOW 3POLETO &OLIGNO AND 'UALDO 4ADINO ON THEIR WAY TO !NCONA ON THE COAST &ROM 4ERONTOLA ON THE 2OMEn&LORENCE LINE TRAINS HEAD EAST ALONG THE NORTHERN SHORE OF ,AGO 4RASIMENO TO 0ERUGIA AND ON TO !SSISI AND 3PELLO MEETING THE 2OMEn!NCONA ROUTE AT &OLIGNO 0ERUGIA LIES MIDWAY ALONG THE &ERRO VIA #ENTRALE 5MBRA A PRIVATE RAILWAY THAT lLLS SOME CRUCIAL GAPS LEFT BY THE STATE NETWORK LINKING THE CITY WITH 4ERNI AND 4ODI IN THE SOUTH AND #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO AND 3AN SEPOLCRO IN THE NORTH 3ERVICES ARE FREQUENT THOUGH TRAINS ARE OFTEN REPLACED BY BUSES OVER CERTAIN SECTIONS ! COUPLE OF TRAINS A DAY ALSO RUN FROM BOTH 2OME AND &LORENCE DIRECT TO 0ERUGIA
" ! 3)#3 'ETTING AROUND
4HE INVALUABLE RED COVERED 4HOMAS #OOK %UROPEAN 4IMETABLES WWWTHOMASCOOK PUBLISHINGCOM DETAILS SCHEDULES OF OVER TRAINS IN %UROPE AS WELL AS TIMINGS OF OVER FERRY ROUTES AND RAIL CONNECTING BUS SERVICES )TS UPDATED AND ISSUED EVERY MONTH MAIN CHANGES OCCUR IN THE *UNE AND /CTOBER EDITIONS WHICH HAVE DETAILS OF THE SUMMER AND WINTER TIMETABLES RESPECTIVELY
4RAIN COMPANIES &ERROVIA #ENTRALE 5MBRA WWWFCUIT 5MBRIAN PRIVATE LINE FROM 4ERNI TO 3ANSEPOLCRO VIA 4ODI 0ERUGIA AND #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO ,A &ERROVIA )TALIANA ,&) WWWLlIT 0RIVATE LINE IN EASTERN 4USCANY FROM !REZZO TO 3TIA VIA "IBBIENA AND 0OPPI 4RENITALIA&ERROVIE DELLO 3TATO &3 WWWTRENITALIAIT 4HE STATE OWNED NATIONAL NETWORK
4ICKETS AND FARES &ARES ARE CALCULATED BY THE KILOMETRE A RETURN FARE ANDATA E RITORNO IS EXACTLY TWICE
4ICKET MACHINES !LL STATIONS HAVE SMALL YELLOW MACHINES AT THE END OF THE PLATFORMS OR IN TICKET HALLS IN WHICH YOU MUST STAMP YOUR TICKET IMMEDIATELY BEFORE GETTING ON THE TRAIN HOWEVER DONT STAMP THE RETURN PORTION OF YOUR TICKET UNTIL YOU EMBARK ON THE RETURN JOURNEY )F YOU DONT VALIDATE YOUR TICKET YOU BECOME LIABLE FOR AN ON THE SPOT lNE
" ! 3)#3
\ 'ETTING AROUND
THAT OF A SINGLE ANDATA ! TICKET UN BIGLIETTO CAN BE BOUGHT FROM A STATION TICKET OFlCE LA BIGLIETTERIA FROM SOME TRAVEL AGENTS AND n TO AVOID LONG QUEUES n FROM MANY STATION NEWS KIOSKS OR BARS FOR SHORT TRIPS )N &LORENCE THE QUEUES FOR TICKETS CAN BE EXTREMELY LONG SO YOUD BE WELL ADVISED TO EITHER BUY A TICKET THE DAY BEFORE OR ALLOW PLENTY OF TIME BEFORE YOUR TRAIN DEPARTS !LL TICKETS MUST BE VALIDATED JUST BEFORE TRAVEL SEE BOX OVERLEAF ONCE VALI DATED RETURN TICKETS ARE VALID FOR TWO MONTHS BUT AS A RETURN COSTS THE SAME AS TWO SINGLES ITS HARDLY WORTH BOTHERING WITH RETURNS -AKE SURE YOU PAY ANY SUPPLEMENT WHEN YOU BUY YOUR TICKET IT WILL COST YOU MORE IF YOU PAY ON BOARD #HILDREN AGED n PAY HALF PRICE UNDER S TRAVEL FREE ! RESERVATION UNA PRENOTAZIONE IS OBLIGA TORY ON %UROSTAR )TALIA TRAINS AND WORTHWHILE FOR )NTER#ITY TRAINS IN THE SUMMER 3LEEPERS CUCCETTA ARE AVAILABLE ON MOST LONG DISTANCE SERVICES PRICES VARY ACCORDING TO LENGTH OF JOURNEY AND WHETHER OR NOT YOURE SHARING
2AIL PASSES
! RAIL PASS IS WORTH CONSIDERING IF YOU PLAN TO TRAVEL EXTENSIVELY AROUND )TALY OR ARE VIS ITING THE COUNTRY AS PART OF A WIDER TOUR OF %UROPE 4HE )NTER 2AIL PASS WWWINTER RAILCOUK n AVAILABLE TO %UROPEAN RESIDENTS n COMES IN VERSIONS FOR OVER S UNDER S AND CHILDREN AND COVERS %UROPEAN COUNTRIES PLUS 4UR KEY AND -OROCCO GROUPED TOGETHER IN ZONES )TALY FALLS IN :ONE ' ALONG WITH 'REECE 4UR KEY AND 3LOVENIA 4HE PASS IS AVAILABLE FOR DAYS ONE ZONE ONLY + OR + FOR UNDER S DAYS TWO ZONES + OR A MONTH THREE OR MORE ZONES + 4HE PASS DOESNT GRANT FREE TRAVEL BETWEEN "RITAIN AND THE CONTINENT ALTHOUGH IT DOES GIVE DISCOUNTED TRAVEL ON TRAINS WITHIN THE 5+ INCLUDING ,ONDONn0ARIS BY %UROSTAR AND CROSS #HANNEL FERRIES AND GIVES FREE TRAVEL ON THE "RINDISIn0ATRAS FERRY BETWEEN )TALY AND 'REECE )N )TALY )NTER 2AIL PASSENGERS HAVE TO PAY SUPPLEMENTS TO USE FASTER TRAINS BUT THESE CHARGES ARE PRETTY LOW ! %URAIL PASS WWWRAILEUROPECOM n FOR NON %5 RESIDENTS ONLY n IS NOT LIKELY TO PAY FOR ITSELF IF YOURE JUST TRAVELLING WITHIN )TALY 4HE PASS WHICH YOU MUST BUY BEFORE YOU ARRIVE IN %UROPE ALLOWS UNLIMITED lRST
CLASS TRAIN TRAVEL IN )TALY AND SIXTEEN OTHER COUNTRIES ITS AVAILABLE FOR lFTEEN DAYS DAYS ONE MONTH TWO MONTHS OR THREE MONTHS 4HERE ARE NUMEROUS SMALL GROUP YOUTH AND SAVER VERSIONS WHICH ARE DETAILED ON WWWRAILEUROPECOM ! %URODOMINO PASS n AVAILABLE TO ANY ONE WHO HAS LIVED IN THE %5 FOR AT LEAST SIX MONTHS n IS VALID FOR THREE DAYS + OR E FOR UNDER S lVE DAYS + OR EIGHT DAYS + TRAVEL WITHIN A ONE MONTH PERIOD IN A SPECIlC NAMED COUNTRY )F YOURE TRAVELLING EXCLUSIVELY IN )TALY BY TRAIN YOU MIGHT CONSIDER BUYING A DOMESTIC 4RENI TALIA PASS THOUGH YOUD HAVE TO COVER A LOT OF GROUND TO MAKE THE PRICE WORTH IT 4HERE ARE DIFFERENT PASSES FOR %5 CITIZENS NOT RESI DENT IN )TALY AND NON %5 CITIZENS AND THEY CAN BE BOUGHT FOR lRST OR SECOND CLASS TRAV EL FOR BETWEEN FOUR AND TEN DAYS TRAVEL IN A TWO MONTH PERIOD WITH lFTY PERCENT DISCOUNT FOR CHILDREN AGED TO AND PERCENT DIS COUNT FOR TO S 4HE CHEAPEST TICKET FOR FOUR DAYS OF SECOND CLASS TRAVEL COSTS + FOR NON %5 PASSENGERS &OR INFO ON )TALIAN RAIL PASSES VISIT WWWTRENITALIAIT
4RAIN INFORMATION 5+ 2AIL %UROPE WWW RAILEUROPECOUK -AIN AGENTS FOR )NTER 2AIL %UROSTAR AND %URODOMINO
.ORTH !MERICA #)4 2AIL 53 #)4 2!), #ANADA WWWCIT RAILCOM %URAIL %UROPASS AND )TALIAN PASSES $%2 4RAVEL 53 WWWDER COM %URAIL AND MANY INDIVIDUAL COUNTRY PASSES %UROPRAIL )NTERNATIONAL WWWEUROPRAILNET %URAIL AND MANY INDIVIDUAL COUNTRY PASSES 2AIL %UROPE 53 #ANADA WWWRAILEUROPECOM /FlCIAL %URAIL AGENT ALSO SELLS MULTINATIONAL PASSES AND MOST SINGLE COUNTRY PASSES
!USTRALIA AND .EW :EALAND #)4 7ORLD 4RAVEL OR WWWCITTRAVELCOMAU %URAIL AND )TALIAN RAIL PASSES
)F YOURE LIMITED TO PUBLIC TRANSPORT AND WANT TO GET TO KNOW 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA THOROUGHLY SOONER OR LATER YOULL HAVE TO USE REGIONAL BUSES AUTOBUS OR PULLMAN 5NLIKE THE STATE OWNED TRAIN NETWORK THERE ARE DOZENS OF DIFFERENT BUS COMPANIES KNOWN BY AN ALPHABET SOUP OF INITIALS ALL OF WHICH ARE UNDER JOINT PUBLIC AND PRIVATE OWNERSHIP 3OME OF THE COMPANIES OPERATE SOLELY ON LOCAL ROUTES OTHERS RUN NATIONWIDE BETWEEN MAJOR CITIES ALMOST EVERYWHERE HAS SOME KIND OF BUS SERVICE BUT SCHEDULES CAN BE SKETCHY AND ARE DRASTICALLY REDUCED n SOME TIMES NONEXISTENT n AT WEEKENDS A FACT THAT THE TIMETABLE DOESNT ALWAYS MAKE CLEAR "EAR IN MIND ALSO THAT IN RURAL AREAS SCHED ULES ARE OFTEN DESIGNED WITH THE WORKING ANDOR SCHOOL DAY IN MIND MEANING A FRIGHT ENINGLY EARLY START IF YOU WANT TO CATCH THE SOLE BUS OUT OF TOWN AND PERHAPS NO BUSES AT ALL DURING SCHOOL HOLIDAYS )N LARGER TOWNS THE BUS TERMINAL AUTO STAZIONE WHERE YOU CAN BUY TICKETS AND PICK UP TIMETABLES IS OFTEN BESIDE THE TRAIN STATION IN SMALLER TOWNS AND VILLAGES MOST BUSES PULL IN AT THE CENTRAL PIAZZA WHICH MAY HAVE A NEWSSTAND SELLING BUS TICKETS IF NOT YOU CAN BUY TICKETS ON THE BUS /N MOST ROUTES ITS USUALLY POSSIBLE TO mAG A BUS DOWN THE CONVENTION IS TO GET ON AT THE BACK AND GET OFF AT THE FRONT h#AN ) GET OFF v IS h0OSSO SCENDERE v hTHE NEXT STOPv IS hLA PROSSIMA FERMATAv #ITY BUSES ARE ALWAYS CHEAP USUALLY A mAT + )N SOME PLACES EACH TICKET IS VALID FOR A SINGLE JOURNEY IN OTHERS IT MAY BE VALID FOR ANY NUMBER OF JOURNEYS WITHIN A SET PERIOD TYPICALLY n MINUTES 9OU MUST ALWAYS BUY A TICKET BEFORE GETTING ON THE BUS FROM LOCAL TABACCHI OR THE KIOSKS AT BUS TERMINALS AND STOPS YOU MUST ALSO ALWAYS VALIDATE THEM IN THE MACHINE INSIDE THE BUS )N MOST CITIES THERE ARE REGULAR TICKET CHECKS WITH HEFTY SPOT lNES ISSUED TO OFFENDERS
.ATIONWIDE ,AZZI 0IAZZA DELLA 3TAZIONE &LORENCE WWWLAZZIIT 3)4! 6IA 3ANTA #ATERINA DA 3IENA &LORENCE 2EGIONAL SERVICES INTER REGIONAL SERVICES WWWSITA ON LINEIT
4USCANY !TAF 0IAZZA 3TAZIONE &LORENCE WWWATAFNET &LORENCE CITY BUSES #!0 ,ARGO &LLI !LINARI &LORENCE WWWCAPAUTOLINEEIT .ORTHERN 4USCANY #!4 6IA &IUME &LORENCE #ENTRAL AND SOUTHERN 4USCANY #,!0 0IAZZALE 'IUSEPPE 6ERDI ,UCCA ,UCCA AND NORTHERN 4USCANY #/0)4 0IAZZA 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA &LORENCE .ORTHERN 4USCANY .ARDINI 6IA 2OMA "ARGA "ARGA AND THE 'ARFAGNANA 2!-! 6IA 4OPAZIO 'ROSSETO 'ROSSETO AND THE -AREMMA 42! ). 0IAZZA 'RAMSCI 3IENA 3IENA PROVINCE
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"Y BUS
-AJOR BUS COMPANIES IN 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA " ! 3)#3 'ETTING AROUND
2AIL %UROPE WWWRAILEUROPECOM #LICK ON hOTHER COUNTRIESv FOR A LIST OF AGENTS IN !USTRALIA AND .: 2AIL 0LUS WWWRAILPLUSCOM AU 3ELLS %URAIL PASSES 4RAILFINDERS WWWTRAILlNDERS COMAU !LL %UROPE PASSES
5MBRIA !0- 0IAN DI -ASSIANO 0ERUGIA WWWAPMONLINECOM 0ERUGIA 'UBBIO !SSISI AND NORTHERN 5MBRIA !4# 0IAZZALE DELLA 2IVOLUZIONE &RANCESE 4ERNI 3OUTHERN 5MBRIA /RVIETO AND THE 6ALNERINA !30 0IAN DI -ASSIANO 0ERUGIA 0ERUGIA !SSISI 4ODI AND NORTHERN 5MBRIA 3)4 6IA &LAMINIA +M 3POLETO 3POLETO AND THE 6ALNERINA 35,'! 3TRADA DEI #APPUCINELLI D 0ERUGIA WWWSULGAIT 0ERUGIA TO &LORENCE AND 2OME
"Y CAR 4RAVELLING BY CAR IN )TALY IS RELATIVELY PAIN LESS 4HE ROADS ARE GOOD THE MOTORWAY AUTOSTRADA NETWORK COMPREHENSIVE AND )TALIAN DRIVERS RATHER LESS ERRATIC THAN THEIR REPUTATION SUGGESTS 4HE SECRET WHILE DRIVING IS TO MAKE IT VERY CLEAR WHAT YOURE ABOUT TO DO USE YOUR HORN AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE AND THEN DO IT WITH CONVICTION $RIVE ON THE RIGHT
" ! 3)#3
\ 'ETTING AROUND
-OST MOTORWAYS ARE TOLL ROADS 4AKE A TICKET AS YOU JOIN AND PAY AS YOU EXIT THE AMOUNT DUE IS mASHED UP ON A SCREEN IN FRONT OF YOU 2ATES ARENT ESPECIALLY HIGH BUT THEY CAN MOUNT UP ON A LONG JOURNEY 3PEED LIMITS ARE KPH IN BUILT UP AREAS KPH ON MAIN ROADS DUAL CARRIAGEWAYS AND KPH ON MOTORWAYS )F YOU BREAK DOWN DIAL AT THE NEAREST PHONE AND TELL THE OPERATOR WHERE YOU ARE THE TYPE OF CAR AND YOUR NUMBER PLATE THE !UTOMOBILE #LUB D)TALIA !#) WILL SEND SOMEONE OUT TO lX YOUR CAR n AT A PRICE .EVER LEAVE ANYTHING VISIBLE IN THE CAR WHEN PARKED INCLUDING THE RADIO AND ALWAYS PUSH YOUR AERIAL DOWN OR YOU MIGHT lND IT SNAPPED OFF -OST CITIES AND PORTS HAVE PAID GARAGES WHERE YOU CAN PARK SAFELY "RINGING YOUR OWN VEHICLE YOU NEED A VALID FULL DRIVING LICENCE WITH PAPER COUNTERPART IF YOU HAVE A PHOTOCARD LICENCE AND AN INTER NATIONAL DRIVING PERMIT IF YOU ARE A NON %5 LICENCE HOLDER )TS COMPULSORY TO CARRY YOUR CAR DOCUMENTS AND PASSPORT WHILE YOURE DRIVING YOU MAY BE REQUIRED TO PRESENT THEM IF STOPPED BY THE POLICE n NOT AN UNCOMMON OCCURRENCE #AR RENTAL IS PRICEY WITH A &IAT 0ANDA OR 2ENAULT 4WINGO STANDARD hSUBCOMPACTv MODELS COSTING MORE THAN a PER WEEK WITH UNLIMITED MILEAGE )TALIAN lRMS MIGHT BE A BIT CHEAPER THAN THE MULTI NATIONALS THERE ARE PLENTY OF COMPANIES WITH DESKS AT 0ISA AIRPORT BUT IT USUALLY WORKS OUT CHEAPEST TO BOOK BEFORE LEAVING EITHER BY ARRANGING A mY DRIVE PACKAGE THROUGH A TRAVEL AGENT OR BY GOING DIRECT TO THE RENTAL AGENCY -OST lRMS WILL ONLY RENT TO DRIVERS OVER WHO HAVE HELD A LICENCE FOR A YEAR
#AR RENTAL AGENCIES
!VIS 5+ WWWAVISCOUK 53 #ANADA WWWAVISCOM 2EPUBLIC OF )RELAND WWWAVISIE !USTRALIA WWWAVISCOMAU .: WWW AVISCONZ "UDGET 5+ WWWBUDGET COUK 2EPUBLIC OF )RELAND WWW BUDGETIE 53 WWWBUDGET COM !USTRALIA WWWBUDGET COMAU .: WWWBUDGETCONZ %UROPCAR 5+ 2EPUBLIC OF )RELAND 53 #ANADA
!USTRALIA WWW EUROPCARCOM (ERTZ 5+ WWWHERTZCOUK 2EPUBLIC OF )RELAND WWWHERTZ IE 53 #ANADA WWWHERTZCOM !USTRALIA WWWHERTZCOMAU .: WWWHERTZCONZ (OLIDAY !UTOS 5+ 2EPUBLIC OF )RELAND 53 !USTRALIA .EW :EALAND WWWHOLIDAYAUTOSCOM .ATIONAL 5+ WWW NATIONALCARCOUK 53 WWW NATIONALCARCOM !USTRALIA WWW NATIONALCARCOMAU .: WWW NATIONALCARCONZ 4HRIFTY 5+ WWWTHRIFTYCOUK 2EPUBLIC OF )RELAND WWW THRIFTYIE 53 WWWTHRIFTY COM !USTRALIA WWWTHRIFTY COMAU .: WWWTHRIFTYCONZ
-OTORING ORGANIZATIONS !USTRALIA !!! WWWAAA ASNAU #ANADA #!! WWWCAACA )RELAND !! WWWAAIRELANDIE )TALY 4#) WWWTOURINGCLUBIT .EW :EALAND !! WWWNZAA CONZ 5+ !! WWWTHEAACOUK 2!# WWWRACCOUK 53 !!! WWWAAACOM
"Y BIKE OR MOTORBIKE #YCLING IS SEEN AS MORE OF A SPORT THAN A WAY OF GETTING AROUND ON A 3UNDAY YOULL SEE PLENTY OF PEOPLE OUT FOR A SPIN ON THEIR #AMPAGNOLO EQUIPPED MACHINES BUT YOULL NOT COME ACROSS MANY LUGGAGE LADEN TOUR ERS /NLY IN MAJOR TOWNS WILL YOU lND A SHOP STOCKING SPARES FOR NON RACING BIKES SO MAKE SURE YOU TAKE A SUPPLY OF INNER TUBES SPOKES AND ANY OTHER BITS YOU THINK MIGHT BE HANDY /N THE ISLANDS IN MAJOR RESORTS AND IN THE LARGER CITIES ITS USUALLY POSSIBLE TO RENT A BIKE BUT RENTAL FACILITIES ELSEWHERE ARE FEW AND FAR BETWEEN !N ALTERNATIVE IS TO TOUR BY MOTORBIKE THOUGH AGAIN THERE ARE RELATIVELY FEW PLACES TO RENT ONE -OPEDS AND SCOOTERS ON THE OTHER HAND ARE EASIER TO lND MANY PEOPLE IN )TALY FROM KIDS TO GRANDMAS RIDE THEM
(ITCHING
"Y FERRY )N 4USCANY THERE ARE THREE PORTS WITH FERRY SERVICES BROADLY ,IVORNO HAS SERVICES TO "ASTIA ON #ORSICA AND THE 4USCAN ISLAND OF #APRAIA 0IOMBINO IS THE MAIN POINT OF DEPARTURE FOR %LBA 0ORTOFERRAIO AND SMALLER PORTS ON THE ISLAND AND ALSO HAS SOME FER RIES TO #ORSICA AND 0ORTO 3ANTO 3TEFANO SERVES THE ISLANDS OF 'IGLIO AND 'IANNUTRI 3UMMER SAILINGS FROM ALL PORTS ARE HEAVILY SUBSCRIBED ESPECIALLY THOSE TO %LBA AND
&ERRY COMPANIES #ORSICA &ERRIES ,IVORNO WWW CORSICAFERRIESCOM ,IVORNO TO #ORSICA "ASTIA #ORSICA -ARITTIMA ,IVORNO WWWSNCMFR ,IVORNO TO #ORSICA "ASTIA AND 0ORTO 6ECCHIO 'RANDI .AVI 6ELOCI 'RIMALDI ,IVORNO WWWGRIMALDIIT ,IVORNO TO 3ICILY 0ALERMO -AREGIGLIO 0ORTO 3ANTO 3TEFANO WWWMAREGIGLIOIT 0ORTO 3ANTO 3TEFANO TO 'IGLIO AND 'IANNUTRI -OBY ,INES ,IVORNO 0IOMBINO WWWMOBYLINESIT ,IVORNO TO 3ARDINIA /LBIA AND #ORSICA "ASTIA 0IOMBINO TO %LBA 3ARDINIA &ERRIES ,IVORNO WWWSARDINIAFERRIESCOM ,IVORNO TO 3ARDINIA 'OLFO !RANCI 4/2%-!2 ,IVORNO 0IOMBINO 0ORTO 3ANTO 3TEFANO WWWTOREMARIT ,IVORNO TO #APRAIA AND 'ORGONA 0IOMBINO TO %LBA 0ORTO 3ANTO 3TEFANO TO 'IGLIO
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'ETTING AROUND EXCLUSIVELY BY HITCHHIKING AUTOSTOP COULD BE A FRUSTRATING EXPERIENCE BUT ITS FEASIBLE ENOUGH FOR THE ODD SHORT HOP ALONG A QUIET COUNTRY ROAD AS WELL AS FOR LONG HAULS BETWEEN MAJOR TOWNS )TS ILLEGAL TO HITCH ON MOTORWAYS AND TO DO SO WOULD BE TO RISK A SPOT lNE STAND ON A SLIP ROAD OR AT ONE OF THE SERVICE STATIONS !LSO BE AWARE THAT FEW WOMEN HITCH ALONE IN )TALY AND NOT TOO MANY IN TWO WOMEN PAIRS IF YOU DO IT ALWAYS ASK WHERE THE CAR IS HEADED h$OVÒ DIRETTO v BEFORE YOU COMMIT YOURSELF )F YOU WANT TO GET OUT SAY h-I FA SCENDERE v
BOOKING IS ESSENTIAL IF YOU WANT TO TAKE A CAR ACROSS /UT OF SEASON SERVICES ARE DRASTICALLY REDUCED AND SOME STOP ALTO GETHER 9OU CAN BOOK TICKETS ONLINE VIA THE )TAL IAN FERRY WEBSITE WWWTRAGHETTICOM )N "RITAIN SOLE AGENTS FOR THE %LBA FERRIES OUT OF 0IOMBINO BOTH -OBY ,INES AND 4OREMAR ROUTINGS ARE 3-3 4RAVEL
" ! 3)#3 !CCOMMODATION
AND ALTHOUGH THEYRE NOT BUILT FOR LONG DIS TANCE TRAVEL THEYRE IDEAL FOR SHOOTING AROUND TOWNS AND ISLANDS %XPECT TO PAY AROUND +n A DAY RENTAL 7EARING CRASH HELMETS IS COMPULSORY
!CCOMMODATION !CCOMMODATION IS A MAJOR COST IN 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA 4HE HOTELS ARE MORE UPMARKET THAN IN MOST )TALIAN REGIONS WITH A PREPONDERANCE OF TWO AND THREE STAR PLACES WITH FEW REALLY INEXPENSIVE HOTELS AND ONLY A SCATTERING OF HOSTELS 0RICES OF HOTELS IN ALL CATEGORIES TEND TO RISE ANNUALLY AS THERES EFFECTIVELY AN INlNITE DEMAND %VEN CAMPSITES ARE FAIRLY PRICEY /N THE PLUS SIDE HOWEVER BOTH REGIONS HAVE PLENTY OF VILLAS FOR RENT WHILE TWO RAPIDLY EXPANDING SECTORS ARE BED AND BREAKFAST AND AGRITURISMO n FARMHOUSE RENTS SIMILAR TO THE &RENCH GÔTES !CCOMMODATION IN )TALY IS STRICTLY REGULATED !LL HOTELS ARE STAR RATED FROM ONE TO lVE PRICES ARE SET BY LAW FOR EACH ROOM n RATES
CAN VARY WITHIN A HOTEL n AND MUST BE POSTED AT THE HOTEL RECEPTION AND IN INDIVIDUAL ROOMS USUALLY ON THE BACK OF THE DOOR !SK TO SEE
!CCOMMODATION PRICE CODES " ! 3)#3
4HROUGHOUT THIS GUIDE ALL ACCOMMODATION PRICES HAVE BEEN GRADED WITH THE CODES BELOW INDICATING THE COST OF THE LEAST EXPENSIVE DOUBLE ROOM IN HIGH SEASON &OR HOSTELS THE RATE PER PERSON FOR (OSTELLING )NTERNATIONAL () MEMBERS HAS BEEN QUOTED
\ !CCOMMODATION
UP TO + +n +n
+n +n +n
A VARIETY OF ROOMS IF THE lRST YOURE SHOWN IS TOO EXPENSIVE OR NOT UP TO SCRATCH THERE MAY BE CHEAPER ROOMS AVAILABLE PERHAPS WITHOUT A PRIVATE BATHROOM -OST TOURIST OFlCES CARRY FULL LISTS OF HOTELS AND OTHER ACCOMMODATION SUCH AS PRIVATE ROOMS AND AGRITURISMO OPTIONS 4HEY MAY BE ABLE TO HELP YOU lND A ROOM AT SHORT NOTICE BUT FEW HAVE DEDICATED ACCOMMODATION SERVICES )N POPULAR RESORTS AND CITIES IT IS ESSENTIAL TO BOOK ROOMS IN ADVANCE ESPECIALLY FOR HIGH SUMMER AND AROUND %ASTER AND #HRIST MAS )N &LORENCE THE HIGH SEASON LASTS MOST OF THE YEAR WITH A RELATIVE LULL ONLY IN .OVEM BER *ANUARY AND &EBRUARY n THOUGH SOME HOTELS REDUCE THEIR PRICES IN !UGUST THE MONTH WHEN MOST )TALIANS DECAMP TO THE COAST OR THE LAKES 4O SECURE A ROOM IN 3IENA FOR ANY TIME BETWEEN %ASTER AND /CTOBER REQUIRES BOOKING SIX MONTHS IN ADVANCE !LWAYS ESTABLISH THE FULL PRICE OF YOUR ROOM n INCLUDING OR EXCLUDING BREAKFAST AND OTHER EXTRAS TAX AND SERVICE CHARGES ARE USUALLY INCLUDED n BEFORE YOU ACCEPT IT 9OU MAY lND THAT HOTELIERS IN SMALL TOWNS AND RESORTS ARE OPEN TO BARGAINING IN THE LOW SEASON )F YOU BOOK IN ADVANCE YOU SHOULD ALSO ALWAYS CALL A DAY OR SO BEFORE ARRIVAL TO CONlRM YOUR ROOM )F YOURE GOING TO BE ARRIVING LATE IN THE EVENING ITS EVEN WORTH ANOTHER CALL THAT MORNING TO RECONlRM ITS NOT UNCOM MON FOR CHEAPER PLACES TO LET YOUR ROOM GO IF YOU HAVENT CHECKED IN BY LUNCHTIME
(OTELS
(OTELS IN )TALY ARE KNOWN BY A VARIETY OF NAMES -OST ARE SIMPLY TAGGED HOTEL OR ALBERGO /THERS MAY BE CALLED A LOCANDA TRADITIONALLY THE CHEAPEST SORT OF INN BUT NOW SOMETIMES RATHER SELF CONSCIOUSLY APPLIED TO SMART NEW HOTELS ! PENSIONE WAS ALSO TRA DITIONALLY A CHEAP PLACE TO STAY THOUGH THE
+n +n OVER +
NAME NOW LACKS ANY OFlCIAL STATUS ANYWHERE STILL DESCRIBING ITSELF AS A hPENSIONEv IS PROB ABLY A HOTEL IN THE ONE STAR CLASS 4HE STAR SYSTEM IS THE BEST WAY TO GET AN IDEA OF WHAT YOU CAN EXPECT FROM A HOTEL THOUGH ITS ESSENTIAL TO REALIZE THE SYSTEM IS BASED ON AN OFTEN ECCENTRIC SET OF CRITE RIA RELATING TO FACILITIES SAY THE PRESENCE OF A RESTAURANT OR AN IN ROOM 46 RATHER THAN NOTIONS ABOUT COMFORT CHARACTER OR LOCA TION ! THREE STAR FOR EXAMPLE MUST HAVE A PHONE IN EVERY ROOM IF IT HASNT IT REMAINS A TWO STAR NO MATTER HOW MAGNIlCENT THE REST OF THE HOTEL %QUALLY A TWO STAR HOTEL MAY HAVE PHONES BUT LACK SOME OTHER FACILITY THAT MIGHT HAVE TAKEN IT UP A RATING /NE STAR HOTELS IN 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA START ON AVERAGE AT ABOUT + FOR A DOUBLE ROOM WITHOUT PRIVATE BATH TWO STAR HOTELS COST UPWARDS OF + FOR AN EN SUITE DOUBLE THREE STAR PLACES n WITH A PHONE AND A 46 n TEND TO BE AROUND + &OUR STAR HOTELS ARE A MARKED STEP UP EVERYTHING HAS MORE POLISH AND IN RURAL FOUR STARS YOULL PROBABLY GET A SWIMMING POOL PRICES START AT AROUND + BUT + IS FAR MORE COMMON AND IN SOME ESTABLISHMENTS YOU CAN PAY TWICE THAT AMOUNT &IVE STAR HOTELS ARE RARE OUTSIDE THE MAJOR TOURIST CENTRES EXPECT TO PAY MORE THAN + A NIGHT 0RICES IN &LORENCE AND 3IENA ARE MUCH HIGHER THAN ANYWHERE ELSE IN THE REGION ONE STARS START AT ABOUT + FOR A DOUBLE ROOM WITHOUT PRIVATE BATH TWO STARS ARE IN THE REGION OF +n THREE STARS CHARGE AROUND + FOUR STARS START AT AROUND +n AND FOR lVE STAR HOTELS YOU SHOULD EXPECT TO PAY MORE THAN + A NIGHT )N THE MORE POPULAR CITIES ESPECIALLY &LOR ENCE ITS NOT UNUSUAL FOR HOTELS TO IMPOSE A MINIMUM STAY OF THREE NIGHTS -ANY PROPRI ETORS WILL ADD THE PRICE OF BREAKFAST TO YOUR BILL WHETHER YOU WANT IT OR NOT TRY TO RESIST
(IGH HOTEL PRICES IN THIS REGION ESPECIALLY IN &LORENCE AND 3IENA ARE MAKING SELF CATER ING AN INCREASINGLY ATTRACTIVE PROPOSITION FOR THE PRICE OF A WEEKS STAY IN HIGH SUM MER IN A THREE STAR DOUBLE HOTEL ROOM IN CENTRAL &LORENCE YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO lND A TWO BEDROOMED APARTMENT IN AN EQUALLY GOOD LOCATION OR AN ENTIRE VILLA OUT IN THE COUNTRYSIDE -ANY PACKAGE COMPANY lRMS OFFER SELF CATERING AS AN ALTERNATIVE TO HOTEL ACCOMMODATION SEE P BUT BETTER SELEC TIONS OF APARTMENTS AND VILLAS ARE PROVIDED BY SPECIALIST AGENTS SUCH AS THE COMPANIES LISTED BELOW AND ON P "RIDGEWATER WWW BRIDGEWATER TRAVELCOUK ! COMPANY WITH OVER YEARS EXPERIENCE OF APARTMENTS IN &LORENCE 0ISA AND ,UCCA AGRITURISMO AND COUNTRY HOTELS IN 5MBRIA FARMHOUSES AND VILLAS ESPECIALLY STRONG ON MOSTLY MODERN HOUSES ON THE 4USCAN COAST (ELLO )TALY WWWHELLOITCOUK 7IDE SELECTION IN SOME OUT OF THE WAY CORNERS OF 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA (OLIDAY 2ENTALS WWWHOLIDAY RENTALSCOUK 4HIS SITE FEATURES SOME PROPERTIES IN 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA AND PUTS YOU IN TOUCH DIRECTLY WITH THE OWNERS )LIOS 4RAVEL WWWILIOSTRAVEL COM (IGH QUALITY SELECTION OF COUNTRY MANSIONS AND VILLAS ONE OF THEIR BEST BEING A GRAND PALAZZO IN 4ODI )NTERHOME WWWINTERHOME COM ,ARGE INTERNATIONAL VILLA AND APARTMENT RENTAL lRM WITH PLENTY OF CHOICE IN ALL CORNERS OF 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA )NVITATION TO 4USCANY WWWINVITATIONTOTUSCANYCOM 6ILLAS WITH POOLS APARTMENTS IN VILLA FARM AND HISTORIC PROPERTY COMPLEXES PLUS THE CHANCE TO RENT THESE COMPLEXES SLEEPING UP TO IN THEIR ENTIRETY )TALIAN "REAKS WWW ITALIANBREAKSCOM !N EXCELLENT RANGE OF HOUSES AND
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3ELF CATERING
APARTMENTS )TALIAN #ONNECTION WWW ITALIAN CONNECTIONCOUK -AJOR UPMARKET OPERATOR WITH AN ARRAY OF VILLAS AND SMART APARTMENTS THROUGHOUT THE REGION /WNERS 3YNDICATE WWW OWNERSSYNDICATECOUK -ORE THAN PROPERTIES AROUND 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA 4RADITIONAL 4USCANY WWW TRADITIONALTUSCANYCOUK /FFERS "" IN &LORENTINE PALACES AND ON WORKING FARMS AND VINEYARDS PLUS A SELECTION OF SOME VILLAS AND CONVERTED FARMS AT COMPETITIVE PRICES 4USCAN (OLIDAYS WWW TUSCANHOLIDAYSCOUK ! SMALL COMPANY WITH CAREFULLY SELECTED HOMES IN CENTRAL 4USCANY MOST WITH POOLS IN WORKING VINEYARDS 4USCANY .OW WWW TUSCANYNOWCOM 4HIS COMPANYS VILLAS ARE AMONG THE MOST LUXURIOUS IN EITHER REGION ALSO HAS HIGH QUALITY APARTMENTS IN TOWN CENTRES AND RURAL LOCATIONS 6ERONICA 4OMASSO #OTGROVE WWWVTCITALYCOM #AREFULLY CHOSEN VILLAS AND APARTMENTS IN BOTH REGIONS INCLUDING SOME VERY EXCLUSIVE PROPERTIES
" ! 3)#3 !CCOMMODATION
THIS n YOU CAN ALWAYS EAT MORE CHEAPLY IN A BAR 3UPPLEMENTS FOR SHOWERS ARE ALSO COM MON IN CHEAPER PLACES 9OU CAN CUT COSTS SLIGHTLY BY CRAMMING THREE INTO A DOUBLE ROOM BUT MOST HOTELS WILL CHARGE YOU AN EXTRA PERCENT FOR THIS .OTE ALSO THAT PEO PLE TRAVELLING ALONE MAY BE HIT FOR THE PRICE OF A DOUBLE ROOM EVEN WHEN TAKING A SINGLE ALTHOUGH KINDLIER HOTELIERS n IF THEY HAVE NO SINGLES AVAILABLE n MAY OFFER YOU A DOUBLE ROOM AT THE SINGLE RATE
0RIVATE ROOMS AND "" 7ITH THE SUMMER DEMAND FOR ACCOMMODA TION hROOMS FOR RENTv AFlTACAMERE SIGNS ARE AN INCREASINGLY COMMON SIGHT WANDER ING AROUND TOWNS OR DRIVING THROUGH THE COUNTRYSIDE YOULL SEE SIGNS IN %NGLISH OR 'ERMAN :IMMER AS WELL AS )TALIAN CAMERE ,OCAL TOURIST OFlCES USUALLY HAVE LISTS OF ROOMS ON OFFER IN THEIR AREA -OST ROOMS ARE IN PRIVATE HOUSES AND CAN OFTEN BE RENTED n AT A DISCOUNT n BY THE WEEK 4HEY GENER ALLY COST AROUND THE SAME PRICE AS YOUD PAY FOR A ONE OR TWO STAR HOTEL -ANY NOTABLY IN 3AN 'IMIGNANO ARE AVAILABLE WITH KITCH ENETTES A POTENTIALLY USEFUL WAY OF KEEPING DOWN COSTS "ED AND BREAKFAST OPTIONS WERE INTRO DUCED IN TO DEAL WITH THE ANTICIPATED INmUX OF VISITORS FOR )TALYS MILLENNIUM CEL EBRATIONS 4HE COUNTRYS NORMALLY RIGID AND PROHIBITIVE REGULATIONS WERE RELAXED AND THE RESULT WAS A NEW BREED OF ACCOMMODATION IN PEOPLES HOMES ALONG THE LINES OF SIMILAR ESTABLISHMENTS IN THE 5+ AND ELSEWHERE 0RICES ARE USUALLY COMPARABLE TO PRIVATE ROOMS THOUGH ONE UNEXPECTED CONSE QUENCE OF THE CHANGES HAS BEEN THE EMER GENCE OF UPSCALE AND RATHER GRAND BED AND
" ! 3)#3
BREAKFAST OPTIONS IN CASTLES PALACES AND LARGE PRIVATE HOMES 4OURIST OFlCES OR LOCAL COMMUNE AND OTHER WEBSITES OFTEN CARRY LISTS OF ""S THE AVAILABILITY OF WHICH LIKE PRIVATE ROOMS TENDS TO CHANGE CONSIDERABLY FROM YEAR TO YEAR
\ !CCOMMODATION
(OSTELS AND STUDENT ACCOMMODATION 7HEN THE EXTRAS ARE FACTORED IN HOSTELS DONT ALWAYS REPRESENT A SAVING FOR TWO PEO PLE TRAVELLING TOGETHER n ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU TAKE INTO ACCOUNT THAT SOME ARE INCONVEN IENTLY LOCATED AND REQUIRE BUS JOURNEYS FROM THE TOWNS THEY SERVE (OWEVER IF YOURE TRAVELLING ALONE HOSTELS ARE CERTAINLY SOCIA BLE AND CAN WORK OUT VERY ECONOMICALLY MANY HAVE FACILITIES SUCH AS SELF CATERING KITCHENS AND BARGAIN BASEMENT RESTAURANTS THAT ENABLE YOU TO CUT COSTS FURTHER -OST CHARGE ABOUT + A NIGHT FOR A DORMITORY BED YOU MAY HAVE TO ADD A COUPLE OF EUROS FOR BREAKFAST AND A SHOWER 3OME ALSO OFFER GOOD ALL IN DEALS AROUND + FOR FULL BOARD -OST HOSTELS BELONG TO THE (OSTELLING )NTER NATIONAL () NETWORK WWWIYHFORG AND STRICTLY SPEAKING YOU NEED TO BE AN () MEM BER TO STAY AT THEM -ANY HOWEVER ALLOW YOU TO JOIN ON THE SPOT OR SIMPLY CHARGE YOU A SMALL SUPPLEMENT 7HETHER OR NOT YOURE AN () MEMBER YOULL NEED TO BOOK AHEAD IN THE SUMMER MONTHS AT LEAST TWO WEEKS TO STAY IN MAJOR CITIES LIKE &LORENCE 4HE MOST EFlCIENT WAY TO BOOK n AT MAIN CITY HOSTELS ONLY n IS USING ()S OWN )NTERNATIONAL "OOKING .ETWORK WWWHOSTELBOOKINGCOM FOR MORE OUT OF THE WAY LOCATIONS YOU SHOULD CONTACT THE HOSTEL DIRECT SENDING A THIRTY PERCENT DEPOSIT OR MORE WITH YOUR BOOKING
() HOSTEL ASSOCIATIONS
!USTRALIA WWWYHAORGAU #ANADA WWWHIHOSTELSCA %NGLAND 7ALES WWW YHAORGUK )TALY WWWOSTELLIONLINEORG .EW :EALAND WWWYHAORGNZ .ORTHERN )RELAND WWW HINIORGUK 2EPUBLIC OF )RELAND WWW IRELANDYHAORG 3COTLAND WWWSYHAORGUK 53! WWWHIAYHORG
2ELIGIOUS ORGANIZATIONS 2ELIGIOUS ORGANIZATIONS ACROSS 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA OFFER CHEAP ACCOMMODATION BIG CENTRES SUCH AS &LORENCE AND 3AN 'IMIGNANO HAVE THEM AS DO THE VERY SMALL EST VILLAGES SUCH AS 3PELLO AND "EVAGNA IN RURAL 5MBRIA /FTEN THE LODGINGS ARE ANNEXED TO CONVENTS OR MONASTERIES OR PILGRIM HOSTELS AND IN MOST CASES AMOUNT TO SIMPLE HOTELS -OST HAVE ROOMS WITH AND WITHOUT BATHROOMS ONLY A FEW HAVE DORM ROOMS WITH BUNKS 3OME ACCEPT WOMEN ONLY OTHERS FAMILES ONLY OR SINGLE TRAVELLERS OF EITHER SEX -OST HAVE A CURFEW BUT FEW CONTRARY TO EXPECTATIONS PAY MUCH HEED TO YOUR COMING AND GOING 6IRTUALLY NONE OFFERS MEALS THE NOTABLE EXCEPTION TO THIS IS !SSISI WHERE DOZENS OF PLACES OFFER FOOD AND LODG INGS TO THE VAST PILGRIM MARKET %LSEWHERE YOU MAY HAVE TO ROOT CONVENTS OUT THEY ARE OFTEN BURIED IN THE ACCOMMODATION LISTINGS ISSUED BY TOURIST OFlCES BUT FOR THIS REASON REMAIN RELATIVELY UNKNOWN TO THE MAJORITY OF TRAVELLERS
#AMPING 4HERE ARE SURPRISINGLY FEW CAMPSITES IN RURAL 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA BUT CAMPING IS POPULAR ALONG THE 4USCAN COAST WHERE THE SITES ARE MOSTLY ON THE UPMARKET SIDE n WELL EQUIPPED AND EXPENSIVE 0RICES IN HIGH SEASON START AT AROUND + PER PER SON PLUS + PER TENTCARAVAN AND AROUND + FOR EACH VEHICLE )F YOURE CAMP ING EXTENSIVELY ITS WORTH CHECKING )TALYS VERY INFORMATIVE CAMPING WEBSITE WWW CAMPINGIT FOR DETAILS OF EACH SITE AND BOOKING FACILITIES #AMPING GAS FOR SMALL PORTABLE STOVES IS EASY ENOUGH TO BUY EITHER FROM A HARDWARE STORE FERRAMENTA OR CAMPINGSPORTS SHOPS
6ILLAS AND AGRITURISMO 4RAVELLING WITH A GROUP OF PEOPLE OR EVEN JUST IN A PAIR ITS WORTH CONSIDERING RENTING A VILLA OR FARMHOUSE FOR A WEEK OR TWO 4HESE ARE NOT TOO EXPENSIVE IF YOU CAN SPLIT COSTS BETWEEN SAY FOUR PEOPLE ARE OF A CONSISTENTLY HIGH STANDARD AND OFTEN ENJOY MARVELLOUS LOCATIONS "RITISH BASED OPERA TORS RENTING VILLAS EITHER ALONE OR AS PART OF A PACKAGE ARE DETAILED ON P
-OUNTAIN REFUGES
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)F YOURE PLANNING ON HIKING OR CLIMBING OR EVEN IF YOURE JUST TOURING BY CAR OR BIKE YOU MAY WANT TO MAKE USE OF RIFUGI MOUNTAIN AND HIGHLAND REFUGES -OST HUTS ARE OWNED BY THE #LUB !LPINO )TALIANO WHICH ALLOWS NON MEMBERS TO STAY FOR +n A NIGHT A FEW ARE PRIVATELY OPERATED AND MAY CHARGE UP TO DOUBLE THIS .OT ALL ARE AWAY FROM ROADS IN THE 3IBILLINI IN 5MBRIA FOR EXAMPLE YOU CAN DRIVE OR CYCLE TO SUPERBLY SITUATED REFUGES AT &ORCA DI 0RESTA AND ELSEWHERE USING THEM AS A BASE FOR WALKING 2IFUGI IN GENERAL ARE FAIRLY SPARTAN WITH BUNKS IN UNHEATED DORMS BUT THEIR LOCATIONS CAN BE MAGNIlCENT AND USUALLY LEAVE YOU WELL PLACED TO CONTINUE YOUR HIKE THE NEXT DAY 9OU DO NOT HAVE TO STAY THE NIGHT MOST MAKE THEIR BASIC LIVING SELLING SNACKS AND HOT MEALS TO PEOPLE COMING IN OFF THE SLOPES !LL #!) RIFUGI ARE OBLIGED TO TAKE YOU IF YOU TURN UP IN PERSON THOUGH THIS MAY MEAN YOU END UP SLEEPING ON THE mOOR OR IN THE CHICKEN SHED SO ITS ALWAYS BEST TO BOOK IN ADVANCE EITHER THROUGH THE LOCAL TOURIST OFlCE #LUB !LPINO )TALIANO DIRECT WWWCAIIT OR n BEST AND EASIEST OF ALL n DIRECT WITH THE RIFUGI !DDRESSES AND PHONE NUMBERS ARE GIVEN IN THE GUIDE
" ! 3)#3 &OOD AND DRINK
)F YOU WANT A SIMILAR EXPERIENCE BUT ON A CHEAPER DAILY BASIS YOUR BEST BET IS AN AGRITURISMO PROPERTY A SCHEME WHEREBY FARMERS RENT OUT CONVERTED BARNS AND FARM BUILDINGS 5SUALLY THESE COMPRISE A SELF CONTAINED mAT OR BUILDING THOUGH A FEW PLACES JUST RENT ROOMS ON A BED AND BREAK FAST BASIS 4HIS MARKET HAS BOOMED OVER THE LAST FEW YEARS AND WHILE SOME ROOMS ARE STILL ANNEXED TO WORKING FARMS OR VINE YARDS MANY ARE SMART SELF CONTAINED RURAL VACATION PROPERTIES ATTRACTIONS MAY INCLUDE HOME GROWN FOOD SWIMMING POOLS AND A RANGE OF ACTIVITIES FROM WALKING AND RIDING TO ARCHERY AND MOUNTAIN BIKING -OST AGRI TURISMI HAVE A MINIMUM STAY REQUIREMENT OF ONE WEEK IN BUSY PERIODS 4OURIST OFlCES KEEP LISTS OF LOCAL PROPER TIES AND THE 5MBRIA REGIONAL TOURIST AUTHOR ITY PRODUCES A DETAILED BOOKLET !GRITURISMO 5MBRIA /SPITALITÌ CONTAINING ALL THE REGIONS OPTIONS AVAILABLE FROM LARGER TOURIST OFlCES !LTERNATIVELY YOU CAN SEARCH ONE OF THE GROWING NUMBER OF AGRITURISMO WEBSITES n THERE ARE HUNDREDS OF PROPERTIES AT WWW AGRITURISMOCOM WWWAGRITURISMONET WWWAGRIITALIAIT AND WWWAGRITURISTIT
&OOD AND DRINK 4HE TRADITIONAL DISHES OF 4USCANY ARE )TALYS MOST INmUENTIAL CUISINE THE INGREDI ENTS AND CULINARY TECHNIQUES OF THE REGION HAVE MADE THEIR MARK NOT JUST ON THE MENUS OF THE REST OF )TALY BUT ALSO ABROAD 5MBRIAN COOKING MAY NOT BE ACCORDED QUITE THE SAME DEGREE OF REVERENCE BUT ITS PRODUCE IS OF EQUALLY HIGH QUALITY WITH ITS TRUFmES AND HAM BEING ESPECIALLY PRIZED !ND WINE HAS ALWAYS BEEN CENTRAL TO THE AREAS ECONOMY AND WAY OF LIFE FAMILIAR NAMES SUCH AS #HIANTI AND /RVIETO REPRESENTING JUST A PORTION OF THE ENORMOUS OUTPUT FROM 4USCAN AND 5MBRIAN VINEYARDS
4USCAN CUISINE
BEFORE SERVING /LIVE PICKING BEGINS AROUND
4HE MOST IMPORTANT INGREDIENT OF 4USCAN COOKING IS OLIVE OIL WHICH COMES INTO ALMOST EVERY DISH n AS A DRESSING FOR SALADS A MEDIUM FOR FRYING OR SIMPLY DRIZZLED OVER VEGETABLES AND INTO SOUPS AND STEWS JUST
.OVEMBER BEFORE THE OLIVES ARE FULLY RIPE THE OIL PRODUCED FROM THE lRST PRESSING IS TERMED EXTRA VIRGINE THE PUREST AND MOST ALKALINE WITH LESS THAN ONE PERCENT ACIDITY 4HE QUALITY OF THE OIL DECLINES WITH SUBSEQUENT PRESSINGS
4HERES A DETAILED MENU READER OF )TALIAN TERMS ON P
" ! 3)#3
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4HE BIGGEST INmUENCES ON 4USCAN COOK ING ARE THE SIMPLE RUSTIC DISHES OF &LORENCE THE MOST FAMOUS OF WHICH IS BISTECCA ALLA lORENTINA A THICK 4 BONE STEAK GRILLED OVER CHARCOAL USUALLY SERVED RARE 4HE MEAT FOR TRUE &LORENTINE BISTECCA COMES FROM THE 6ALDICHIANA AREA SOUTH OF !REZZO FROM AN ANIMAL NO MORE THAN TWO AND A HALF YEARS OLD 4HE &LORENTINES ARE ALSO FOND OF THE UNPRETENTIOUS ARISTA ROAST PORK LOIN STUFFED WITH ROSEMARY AND GARLIC AND OF POLLO ALLA DIAVOLA A mATTENED CHICKEN MARINATED WITH OLIVE OIL AND LEMON JUICE OR WHITE WINE THEN DRESSED WITH HERBS BEFORE GRILLING 7ILD HARE FEATURES ON MANY MENUS AS LEPRE IN DOLCE E FORTE COOKED IN WINE AND TOMATOES WITH RAISINS PINE NUTS CANDIED ORANGE PEEL AND HERBS OR AS PAPPARDELLE CON LEPRE NOODLES TOPPED WITH HARE FRIED BACON AND TOMA TOES 4HESE ARE BASICALLY PEASANT MEALS THAT HAVE BECOME STAPLES OF THE REGIONAL CUISINE AS HAVE DISHES SUCH AS TRIPPA E ZAMPA n TRIPE WITH CALFS FEET ONIONS TOMATOES WHITE WINE GARLIC AND NUTMEG %ACH MAJOR 4USCAN TOWN HAS ITS CULINARY SPECIALITIES A VESTIGE OF THE DAYS WHEN THE REGION WAS DIVIDED INTO CITY STATES 0ISAS TREATS INCLUDE BLACK CABBAGE SOUP NEW BORN EELS CIECHE FRIED WITH GARLIC AND SAGE AND TORTA COI BISCHERI A CAKE lLLED WITH RICE CANDIED FRUIT CHOCOLATE RAISINS AND PINE NUTS AND mAVOURED WITH NUTMEG AND LIQUEUR -ANY OF THE SPECIALITIES OF 3IENA DATE BACK TO THE MEDIEVAL PERIOD INCLUDING SALSICCE SECCHE DRIED SAUSAGES AND PANFORTE DI 3IENA A CELEBRATED SPICY CAKE OF NUTS AND CANDIED FRUIT !REZZO HAS ACQUACOTTA A SOUP OF FRIED ONION TOMATO AND BREAD MIXED WITH EGG AND CHEESE WHILE ,IVORNO OFFERS CAC CIUCCO A MIXTURE OF lSH WITH BREAD TOMA TOES GARLIC AND WHITE WINE AND BRODATINO A RED BEAN AND BLACK CABBAGE SOUP %VERYWHERE IN THE PROVINCE SOUPS ARE CENTRAL TO THE CUISINE THE MOST FAMOUS BEING RIBOLLITA A THICK VEGETABLE CONCOCTION TRADITIONALLY INCLUDING LEFT OVER BEANS HENCE hREBOILEDv 0APPA AL POMODORO IS A POPU LAR BROTH WITH BREAD TOMATOES AND BASIL
COOKED TO A SUSTAINING STODGE !S SECONDI YOULL lND A LOT OF hHUNTERS DISHESv CACCIA TORE MOST COMMONLY CINGHIALE WILD BOAR OR POLLO CHICKEN 7HITE CANNELLINI BEANS ARE THE FAVOURITE VEGETABLES BOILED WITH ROSE MARY AND DOUSED WITH OLIVE OIL OR COOKED WITH TOMATOES ALLUCCELLETTO "ROAD BEANS PEAS ARTICHOKES AND ASPARAGUS ARE OTHER MUCH USED VEGETABLES BUT NONE IS AS TYPI CALLY 4USCAN AS SPINACH WHICH IS SERVED AS A SIDE VEGETABLE IN COMBINATION WITH OME LETTES POACHED EGGS OR lSH MIXED WITH RICOTTA TO MAKE GNOCCHI OR AS A lLLING FOR CRESPOLINE PANCAKES 3PINACH AND GREEN BEANS ARE OFTEN EATEN COLD USUALLY WITH A SQUEEZE OF LEMON $ESPITE SOME CROP REDUCTIONS CAUSED BY OUTBREAKS OF TREE DISEASE WILD CHESTNUTS REMAIN ANOTHER STAPLE OF 4USCAN COOKING THERES A LONG TRADITION OF SPECIALITIES BASED ON DRIED CHESTNUTS AND CHESTNUT mOUR SUCH AS THE DELICIOUS CASTAGNACCIO CHESTNUT CAKE MADE WITH PINE NUTS RAISINS AND ROSEMARY 3HEEPS MILK PECORINO IS THE MOST WIDESPREAD 4USCAN CHEESE BUT THE MOST FAMOUS IS THE OVAL MARZOLINO FROM THE #HIANTI REGION WHICH IS EATEN EITHER FRESH OR RIPENED AND IS OFTEN GRATED OVER MEAT DISHES $ESSERT MENUS WILL OFTEN INCLUDE CANTUCCI NI HARD BISCUITS WHICH ARE DIPPED IN A GLASS OF 6INSANTO OR ZUCCOTTO A BRANDY SOAKED SPONGE CAKE lLLED WITH CREAM MIXED WITH CHOCOLATE POWDER ALMONDS AND HAZELNUTS n LIKE TIRAMISá ELSEWHERE IN )TALY
5MBRIAN CUISINE 5MBRIAS COOKING ALSO RELIES HEAVILY ON RUS TIC STAPLES n PASTAS AND ROAST MEATS n AND TENDS TO BE SIMPLE 5MBRIA IS HOWEVER THE ONLY REGION IN )TALY APART FROM 0IEMONTE TO OFFER TRUFmES IN ANY ABUNDANCE SEE BOX P 4RADITIONALLY THE WHITE TRUFmE IS THE MOST HIGHLY PRIZED ON ACCOUNT OF ITS AROMA BUT LOCALS SWEAR BY THE 5MBRIAN GREY WHITE BIANCHETTO VARIETY AND THE BLACK TRUFmE THATS MOST COMMON TO THE AREA AROUND 3POLETO AND .ORCIA 9OURE MOST LIKELY TO COME ACROSS THEM WITH TAGLIOLINI A SUPER lNE THREAD OF PASTA THAT ENABLES YOU TO TASTE THE TRUFmE AS A MODEST SPRINKLING OVER A DISH OF TAGLIATELLE OR MEAT OR ON CROSTINI n AT A PRICE THAT PROHIBITS OVERINDULGENCE 0RODUCING TRUFmES IN CONTROLLED CONDITIONS REMAINS THE
6EGETARIAN DISHES
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CULINARY (OLY 'RAIL AND UNTIL THERES SUCCESS IN THIS lELD THEY WILL REMAIN A TREASURED COM MODITY -EAT AND IN PARTICULAR PORK IS THE STAPLE OF THE 5MBRIAN MAIN COURSE USUALLY GRILLED OR ROASTED 4HE REGIONS SMALL FREE RANGE BLACK PIGS ARE FAMOUS AND HAVE LATELY BEEN JOINED BY WILD BOAR CINGHIALE n APPARENTLY EMIGRÏS FROM 4USCANY NOW REPRODUCING AT A PRODI GIOUS RATE .ORCIA IS THE HEART OF PIG COUNTRY WITH A SUPERB SELECTION OF ALL THINGS PORCINE THOUGH OTHER TOWNS BOAST THEIR OWN SPECI ALITIES #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO PRODUCES A SALAME MADE WITH SPICES AND FENNEL SEED #ASCIA AND 0RECI ARE KNOWN FOR THEIR MORTADELLA &OLIGNO HAS A DISTINCTIVE DRY SALAME AND 'UALDO 4ADINO DOES A SPECIAL SAUSAGE THE SOPPRESSATA !LSO LOOK OUT FOR THE EXTRAORDI NARY FRUIT AND NUT mAVOURED SALAME MEZZAFE GATO %NDEMIC TO THE REGION IS PORCHETTA A WHOLE ROAST SUCKLING PIG STUFFED WITH HERBS AND SPICES AND EATEN SLICED IN CRUSTY WHITE ROLLS )TS AN 5MBRIAN CONCOCTION THAT HAS SPREAD THROUGH MOST OF CENTRAL )TALY WIDELY AVAILABLE AS A SNACK FROM MARKETS AND ROAD SIDE STALLS 4HE REGIONS MINOR SPECIALITIES ARE THE TINY LENTILS OF #ASTELLUCCIO THE BEANS OF 4RASIMENO THE PEAS FROM "ETTONA AND THE CELERY AND CARDOONS FROM AROUND 4REVI 5MBRIAN OLIVE OIL THOUGH NOT HYPED QUITE AS MUCH AS THE 4USCAN OILS HAS A HIGH REPU TATION ESPECIALLY THAT FROM AROUND 4REVI AND 3POLETO 'AME MAY CROP UP ON SOME MENUS MOST OFTEN AS PIGEON PHEASANT OR GUINEA FOWL )TS NOT UNKNOWN TO BE OFFERED TORDO THRUSH USUALLY AS A PATÏ SO IF THIS OFFENDS YOUR SENSIBILITIES WATCH OUT OTHER SONGBIRDS ARE HUNTED OFTEN ILLEGALLY BUT THEYRE UNLIKELY
" ! 3)#3 &OOD AND DRINK
9OU CAN GENERALLY MANAGE lNE TRAVELLING IN 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA AS A VEGETARIAN )F YOU EAT lSH AND SEAFOOD YOULL HAVE NO PROBLEM AT ALL BUT EVEN IF YOU DONT YOULL lND SEVERAL PASTA SAUCES AND PIZZA VARIETIES WITHOUT MEAT AS WELL AS GOOD lLLING SALADS "EWARE VEGETABLE SOUPS WHICH MAY BE MADE WITH MEAT STOCK 4HE ONLY REAL PROBLEM IS ONE OF COMPREHENSION MANY )TALIANS DONT REALLY UNDERSTAND SOMEONE NOT EATING MEAT AND STATING THE OBVIOUS DOESNT ALWAYS GET THE POINT ACROSS 3AYING YOURE A VEGETARIAN h3ONO VEGETARIANOv n OR hVEGETARIANAv IF YOURE FEMALE AND ASKING IF A DISH HAS MEAT IN hCÒ CARNE DENTRO v MIGHT STILL TURN UP A POULTRY OR PROSCIUTTO DISH "ETTER IS TO ASK WHAT A DISH IS MADE WITH BEFORE YOU ORDER hCOMÒ FATTO v SO THAT YOU CAN SPOT THE INGREDIENTS
TO lND THEIR WAY INTO A RESTAURANT $ESPITE 5MBRIAS LACK OF A COAST SOME RESTAURANTS MAKE THE EFFORT TO BRING IN FRESH lSH AND THERES A REASONABLY WIDE SELECTION OF FRESH WATER SPECIMENS AVAILABLE CLOSE TO LAKES AND MOUNTAIN RIVERS 4ROUT ARE PULLED OUT OF THE .ERA #LITUNNO AND 3ORDO RIVERS WHILE LAKES 0IEDILUCO AND 4RASIMENO YIELD EELS PIKE TENCH AND GREY MULLET #HEESES FOLLOW THE STANDARD VARIATIONS WITH THE ONLY GENU INE ONE OFFS TO BE FOUND IN THE MOUNTAINS AROUND .ORCIA AND 'UBBIO 5MBRIA OFFERS THE STANDARD )TALIAN SELECTION OF EXOTICALLY NAMED DESSERTS MOST OF THEM GLORIlED SPONGES OR TARTS 0ERUGINO CHOCO LATE IS OUTSTANDING BUT ITS AVAILABLE THROUGH OUT )TALY /NE GENUINE NOVELTY ARE THE WHITE lGS OF !MELIA MIXED IN A TOOTH ROTTING COM BINATION OF ALMONDS AND CHOCOLATE
"REAKFAST AND SNACKS -OST )TALIANS START THEIR DAY IN A BAR THEIR BREAKFAST PRIMA COLAZIONE CONSISTING OF A COFFEE AND THE UBIQUITOUS CORNETTO OR BRIOCHE n A JAM CUSTARD OR CHOCOLATE lLLED CROISSANT WHICH YOU USUALLY TAKE YOURSELF FROM THE COUNTER 5NlLLED CROISSANTS CAN BE HARD TO lND ASK FOR UN CORNETTO VUOTO OR NORMALE "REAKFAST IN A HOTEL WILL OFTEN BE A LIMP AFFAIR USUALLY WORTH AVOIDING ALTHOUGH SOME UPPER BRACKET PLACES PRESENT GOOD BREAKFAST BUFFETS !T OTHER TIMES OF THE DAY SANDWICHES PANINI CAN BE PRETTY SUBSTANTIAL A lLLED BREADSTICK OR ROLL FOR TWO OR THREE EUROS 3PECIALIZED SANDWICH BARS PANINOTECHE CAN BE FOUND IN MANY LARGER TOWNS GROCERS SHOPS ALIMENTARI WHOLL MAKE SANDWICHES TO ORDER ARE ANOTHER STANDARD SOURCE "ARS
" ! 3)#3
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MAY ALSO OFFER TRAMEZZINI READY MADE SLICED WHITE BREAD WITH MIXED lLLINGS n TASTY AND SLIGHTLY CHEAPER THAN THE AVERAGE PANINO 4OASTED SANDWICHES TOAST ARE COMMON TOO IN A PANINOTECA YOU CAN GET WHATEVER YOU WANT TOASTED IN ORDINARY BARS ITS MORE LIKELY TO BE A VARIATION ON CHEESE OR HAM WITH TOMATO 4HERE ARE A NUMBER OF OPTIONS FOR TAKEA WAY FOOD )TS POSSIBLE TO lND SLICES OF PIZZA PIZZA A TAGLIO OR PIZZA RUSTICA PRETTY MUCH EVERYWHERE n BUY IT BY WEIGHT AN ETTO IS G n WHILE YOU CAN GET PASTA CHIPS AND EVEN HOT MEALS IN A TAVOLA CALDA A SORT OF SNACK BAR THATS AT ITS BEST IN THE MORNING WHEN EVERYTHING IS FRESH 3OME ARE SELF SERV ICE WITH LIMITED SEATING FOUND MOSTLY IN THE BIGGER TOWNS AND INSIDE LARGER TRAIN STATIONS 4HEY ARE HOWEVER A DYING BREED AS IS THE ROSTICCERIA WHERE THE SPECIALITY IS USUALLY SPIT ROASTED CHICKEN ALONGSIDE FAST FOODS SUCH AS PIZZA SLICES CHIPS AND HAMBURGERS /THER SOURCES OF QUICK SNACKS ARE MAR KETS SOME OF WHICH SELL TAKE AWAY FOOD FROM STALLS INCLUDING FOCACCE OVEN BAKED PASTRIES TOPPED WITH CHEESE OR TOMATO OR lLLED WITH SPINACH FRIED OFFAL OR MEAT AND ARANCINI OR SUPPLI DEEP FRIED BALLS OF RICE lLLED WITH MEAT ROSSO OR BUTTER AND CHEESE BIANCO 3UPERMARKETS ALSO ARE AN OBVI OUS STOP FOR A PICNIC LUNCH #O OP #ONAD 3TANDA AND 0UNTO3MA ARE THE MOST COM MON CHAINS IN 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA
0IZZA
!LL ACROSS )TALY PIZZA COMES THIN AND mAT NOT DEEP PAN AND THE CHOICE OF TOPPINGS IS FAIRLY LIMITED n NONE OF THE PINEAPPLE AND SWEETCORN VARIATIONS COMMON IN "RITAIN AND !MERICA -OST ARE COOKED IN THE TRADITIONAL WAY IN WOOD lRED OVENS FORNO A LEGNA THEY ARRIVE BLASTED AND BUBBLING ON THE SUR FACE AND WITH A DISTINCTIVE CHARCOAL TASTE 0IZZERIE RANGE FROM A STAND UP COUNTER SELL ING SLICES A TAGLIO TO A FULLY mEDGED SIT DOWN RESTAURANT AND ON THE WHOLE THEY DONT SELL MUCH ELSE BESIDES PIZZA AND DRINKS THOUGH IN LARGE TOWNS YOULL COME ACROSS SOME THAT ALSO DO SIMPLE PASTA DISHES 3OME STRAIGHT RESTAURANTS OFTEN HAVE PIZZA ON THE MENU TOO ! BASIC CHEESE AND TOMATO PIZZA MAR GHERITA COSTS AROUND + A FANCIER VARIETY ANYTHING UP TO + ITS QUITE ACCEPTABLE TO
CUT IT INTO SLICES AND EAT IT WITH YOUR lNGERS #HECK THE MENU READER ON P FOR A LIST OF VARIETIES
)CE CREAM )TALIAN ICE CREAM GELATO IS JUSTIlABLY FAMOUS A CONE UN CONO OR BETTER VALUE hCUPv UNA COPPA ARE INDISPENSABLE ACCES SORIES TO THE EVENING PASSEGGIATA -OST BARS HAVE A FAIRLY GOOD SELECTION BUT FOR REAL CHOICE GO TO A GELATERIA WHERE THE RANGE IS A TRIBUTE TO THE )TALIAN IMAGINATION AND mAIR FOR DISPLAY 9OULL SOMETIMES HAVE TO GO BY APPEARANCE RATHER THAN ATTEMPTING TO DECIPHER THEIR EXOTIC NAMES MANY OF WHICH DONT MEAN MUCH EVEN TO )TALIANS OFTEN THE BASICS n CHOCOLATE STRAWBERRY VANILLA n ARE BEST 4HERES NO PROBLEM LOCATING THE lNEST GELATERIA IN TOWN ITS THE ONE THAT DRAWS THE CROWDS 4HE PROCEDURE IS TO ASK FOR A CONO OR COPPA INDICATING THE SIZE YOU WANT
2ESTAURANTS 4RADITIONALLY 4USCAN AND 5MBRIAN RESTAU RANT MEALS LUNCH IS PRANZO DINNER IS CENA ARE LONG AND PRETTY SOLID AFFAIRS STARTING WITH AN ANTIPASTO FOLLOWED BY A RISOTTO OR A PASTA DISH LEADING ON TO A lSH OR MEAT COURSE CHEESE AND lNISHED WITH FRESH FRUIT AND COF FEE %VEN EVERYDAY MEALS ARE A MINIATURIZED VERSION OF THIS -ODERN MINIMALISM HAS MADE INROADS INTO THE MORE EXPENSIVE RESTAURANTS BUT THE STAPLE FARE AT THE MAJORITY OF PLACES IS EXACTLY WHAT IT MIGHT HAVE BEEN A CENTURY AGO 6EGETARIANISM IS A CONCEPT THATS ALSO BEEN SLOW TO CATCH ON WITHIN &LORENCE VEG ETARIAN PLACES ARE PRETTY SCARCE AND OUTSIDE THE CITY YOURE UNLIKELY TO lND MANY AT ALL 2ESTAURANTS ARE MOST COMMONLY CALLED EITHER TRATTORIE OR RISTORANTI 4RADITIONALLY A TRATTORIA IS A CHEAPER AND MORE BASIC PUR VEYOR OF HOME STYLE COOKING CUCINA CASAL INGA WHILE A RISTORANTE IS MORE UPMARKET WITH APRONED WAITERS AND TABLECLOTHS 4HESE DAYS HOWEVER THERES A lNE LINE BETWEEN THE TWO AS ITS BECOME RATHER CHIC FOR AN EXPENSIVE RESTAURANT TO CALL ITSELF A TRATTORIA )TS IN THE RURAL AREAS THAT YOURE MOST LIKELY TO COME ACROSS AN OLD STYLE TRATTORIA THE SORT OF PLACE WHERE THERES NO WRITTEN MENU THE WAITER WILL SIMPLY REEL OFF A LIST OF WHATS AVAIL ABLE AND NO BOTTLED WINE IT COMES STRAIGHT
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4HE MENU AND THE BILL 4HE CHEAPEST n THOUGH NOT THE MOST REWARD ING WAY n TO EAT IN BIGGER CITY RESTAURANTS IS TO OPT FOR A SET PRICE MENá TURISTICO 4HIS WILL GIVE YOU A lRST COURSE PASTA OR SOUP MAIN COURSE DESSERT USUALLY A PIECE OF FRUIT HALF A LITRE OF WATER AND A QUARTER LITRE OF WINE PER PERSON "EWARE THE INCREASINGLY COMMON PREZZO lSSO MENU WHICH EXCLUDES COVER SERVICE DESSERT AND BEVERAGES 7ORKING YOUR WAY THROUGH AN )TALIAN MENU LA LISTA OR SOMETIMES IL MENá IS PRETTY STRAIGHTFORWARD !NTIPASTO LITERALLY hBEFORE THE MEALv IS A COURSE GENERALLY CONSISTING OF VARIOUS COLD CUTS OF MEAT SEAFOOD AND VARI OUS COLD VEGETABLE DISHES 0ROSCIUTTO IS A COMMON ANTIPASTO DISH HAM EITHER COOKED COTTO OR JUST CURED AND HUNG CRUDO SERVED ALONE OR WITH MELON lGS OR MOZZA RELLA CHEESE !LSO VERY COMMON ARE CROSTINI CANAPÏS OF MINCED CHICKEN LIVER AND OTHER TOPPINGS 4HE NEXT COURSE IL PRIMO CONSISTS OF SOUP OR A RISOTTO POLENTA OR PASTA DISH 4HIS IS FOLLOWED BY IL SECONDO n THE MEAT OR lSH COURSE USUALLY SERVED ALONE EXCEPT FOR PERHAPS A WEDGE OF LEMON OR TOMATO 7ATCH OUT WHEN ORDERING lSH OR &LORENCES FAMOUS BISTECCA ALLA lORENTINA WHICH WILL USUALLY BE SERVED BY WEIGHT G IS USU ALLY PLENTY FOR ONE PERSON OR ASK TO HAVE A LOOK AT THE lSH BEFORE ITS COOKED !NYTHING
MARKED 31 OR HG MEANS YOU ARE PAYING BY WEIGHT HG STANDS FOR A HECTOGRAM ETTO IN )TALIAN n G OR AROUND OZ 6EGETABLES IL CONTORNO AND SALADS INSALATA ARE ORDERED AND SERVED SEPARATELY AND OFTEN THERE WONT BE MUCH CHOICE IF ANY MOST COMMON ARE BEANS FAGIOLI POTATOES PATATE AND SALADS EITHER GREEN VERDE OR MIXED MISTA &OR AFTERS YOU NEARLY ALWAYS GET A CHOICE OF FRESH FRUIT FRUTTA AND A SELECTION OF DES SERTS DOLCI OFTEN FOCUSED ON ICE CREAM OR USUALLY DULL HOMEMADE mANS TORTA DELLA CASA !T THE END OF THE MEAL ASK FOR THE BILL CHECK IL CONTO )N MANY TRATTORIE THIS AMOUNTS TO NO MORE THAN AN ILLEGIBLE SCRAP OF PAPER AND IF YOU WANT TO BE SURE YOURE NOT BEING RIPPED OFF ASK TO HAVE A RECEIPT RICEVUTA SOMETHING ALL BARS AND RESTAURANTS ARE LEGALLY BOUND TO PROVIDE ANYWAY "EAR IN MIND THAT ALMOST EVERYWHERE YOULL PAY A COVER CHARGE PANE E COPERTO OR JUST COP ERTO ON TOP OF YOUR FOOD OF +n A HEAD ,EGALLY BACKED EFFORTS TO DO AWAY WITH THIS ON THE GROUNDS THAT IT AMOUNTS TO CHARGING EXTRA FOR WHAT SHOULD BE INCORPORATED IN A RESTAURANTS MARGINS HAVE NOT YET SUCCEED ED !S WELL AS THE COPERTO SERVICE SERVIZIO WILL OFTEN BE ADDED GENERALLY ABOUT TEN PER CENT IF IT ISNT YOU SHOULD PERHAPS TIP ABOUT THE SAME AMOUNT THOUGH TRATTORIE OUTSIDE THE LARGE CITIES WONT NECESSARILY EXPECT TIPS
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FROM THE VATS OF THE LOCAL FARM ! TRUE RIS TORANTE WILL ALWAYS HAVE A WRITTEN MENU AND A REASONABLE CHOICE OF WINES THOUGH EVEN IN SMART PLACES ITS STANDARD TO CHOOSE THE ORDINARY HOUSE WINE )N POPULAR TOURIST TOWNS NOTABLY &LORENCE YOU MAY WELL lND RESTAURANTS UNWILLING TO SERVE ANYTHING LESS THAN A FULL MEAL NO LUNCHTIME RESTRAINT OF A PASTA AND SALAD ALLOWED )NCREASINGLY TOO YOULL COME ACROSS OSTERIE 4HESE USED TO BE OLD FASHIONED PLACES SPECIALIZING IN HOME COOKING THOUGH RECENTLY THEY HAVE HAD QUITE A VOGUE AND THE OSTERIA TAG MORE OFTEN SIGNIlES A YOUNG ISH OWNERSHIP AND CLIENTELE AND ADVENTUR OUS FOODS /THER TYPES OF RESTAURANT INCLUDE SPAGHETTERIE AND BIRRERIE RESTAURANT BARS THAT SERVE BASIC PASTA DISHES OR BEER AND SNACKS AND ARE AGAIN OFTEN YOUNGISH HANGOUTS
$RINKING $RINKING IS ESSENTIALLY AN ACCOMPANIMENT TO FOOD THERES LITTLE EMPHASIS ON DRINKING FOR ITS OWN SAKE ,OCALS SITTING AROUND IN BARS OR CAFÏS n WHATEVER THEIR AGE n WILL SPEND HOURS CHATTING OVER ONE DRINK !ND EVEN IN BARS MOST PEOPLE YOU SEE IMBIBING ONE OF THE DELICIOUS )TALIAN GRAPPAS OR BRANDIES WILL TAKE JUST ONE THEN BE ON THEIR WAY 4HE SNAG IS THAT SINCE )TALIANS DRINK SO LITTLE PRICES CAN BE HIGH "ARS ARE OFTEN VERY FUNCTIONAL BRIGHTLY LIT PLACES WITH A CHROME COUNTER A 'AGGIA COFFEE MACHINE AND A PICTURE OF THE LOCAL FOOTBALL TEAM ON THE WALL 4HERE ARE NO SET LICENSING HOURS AND CHILDREN ARE ALWAYS ALLOWED IN BARS OFTEN HAVE A PUBLIC PHONE AND SELL SNACKS AND ICE CREAMS AS WELL AS DRINKS 0EOPLE COME TO BARS FOR ORDINARY DRINKING n A COFFEE IN THE MORNING A QUICK
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BEER OR A CUP OF TEA n BUT DONT GENER ALLY IDLE AWAY THE DAY OR EVENING IN THEM )N SOME MORE RURAL PLACES ITS DIFlCULT TO lND A BAR OPEN MUCH AFTER PM )TS NEARLY ALWAYS CHEAPEST TO DRINK STANDING AT THE COUN TER THERES OFTEN NOWHERE TO SIT ANYWAY IN WHICH CASE YOU OFTEN PAY lRST AT THE CASH DESK LA CASSA PRESENT YOUR RECEIPT SCON TRINO TO THE BARPERSON AND GIVE YOUR ORDER SOMETIMES YOU SIMPLY ORDER YOUR DRINK AND PAY AS YOU LEAVE 4HERES ALWAYS A LIST OF PRICES LISTINO PREZZI BEHIND THE BAR )F THERES WAITER SERVICE YOU CAN SIT WHERE YOU LIKE THOUGH BEAR IN MIND THAT TO DO THIS MEANS YOUR DRINK WILL COST PERHAPS TWICE AS MUCH ESPECIALLY IF YOU SIT OUTSIDE ON THE TERRACE 4HESE DIFFERENT PRICES FOR THE SAME DRINKS ARE SHOWN ON THE PRICE LIST AS BAR TAVOLA AND TERRAZZA
#OFFEE TEA AND SOFT DRINKS
/NE OF THE MOST DISTINCTIVE SMELLS IN AN )TAL IAN STREET IS THAT OF FRESH COFFEE USUALLY WAFT ING OUT OF A BAR 4HE BASIC CHOICE IS EITHER SMALL AND BLACK ESPRESSO OR JUST CAFFÒ OR WHITE AND FROTHY CAPPUCCINO )F YOU WANT A LONGER ESPRESSO ASK FOR A CAFFÒ LUNGO OR AMERICANO A DOUBLE ESPRESSO IS UNA DOP PIA WHILE A SHORT EXTRA STRONG ESPRESSO IS A RISTRETTO ! COFFEE TOPPED WITH UN FROTHED MILK IS A CAFFÒ LATTE WITH A DROP OF MILK ITS CAFFÒ MACCHIATO WITH A SHOT OF ALCOHOL ITS CAFFÒ CORRETTO !LTHOUGH MOST PLACES LET YOU HELP YOURSELF TO SUGAR A FEW ADD IT ROUTINELY IF YOU DONT WANT IT YOU CAN MAKE SURE BY ASKING FOR CAFFÒ SENZA ZUCCHERO -ANY PLAC ES ALSO NOW SELL DECAFFEINATED COFFEE ASK FOR THE BRAND NAME (AG EVEN WHEN IT ISNT )N SUMMER YOU MIGHT WANT TO HAVE YOUR COFFEE COLD CAFFÒ FREDDO FOR A REAL TREAT ASK FOR CAFFÒ GRANITA COLD COFFEE WITH CRUSHED ICE USUALLY TOPPED WITH CREAM (OT TEA TÒ CALDO COMES WITH LEMON CON LIMONE AS STANDARD UNLESS YOU ASK FOR MILK CON LATTE IN SUMMER YOU CAN DRINK IT COLD TÒ FREDDO -ILK ITSELF IS DRUNK HOT AS OFTEN AS COLD OR YOU CAN GET IT WITH A DASH OF COFFEE LATTE MACCHIATO AND SOMETIMES AS A MILKSHAKE FRAPPÏ 4HERE ARE NUMEROUS SOFT DRINKS ANAL COLICHE ! SPREMUTA IS A FRUIT JUICE USUALLY ORANGE xDARANCIA LEMON xDI LIMONE OR GRAPEFRUIT xDI POMPELMO FRESH SQUEEZED AT THE BAR WITH OPTIONAL ADDED SUGAR !
SUCCO DI FRUTTA IS A BOTTLED FRUIT JUICE WIDELY DRUNK AT BREAKFAST 4HERE ARE ALSO CRUSHED ICE GRANITE IN SEVERAL mAVOURS AND THE USUAL RANGE OF lZZY DRINKS AND CONCENTRATED JUICES THE HOME GROWN )TALIAN COLA #HI NOTTO IS LESS SWEET THAN #OKE n GOOD WITH A SLICE OF LEMON !N EXCELLENT THIRST QUENCHER IS ,EMON 3ODA THE BRAND NAME A WIDELY AVAILABLE BITTER LEMON DRINK /RANGE 3ODA IS NOT AS GOOD 4AP WATER ACQUA NORMALE OR ACQUA DAL RUBINETTO IS QUITE DRINKABLE AND FREE IN BARS -INERAL WATER ACQUA MINERALE IS A MORE COMMON CHOICE EITHER STILL SENZA GAS LISCIA NON GASSATA OR NATURALE OR SPARKLING CON GAS GASSATA OR FRIZZANTE
"EER AND SPIRITS "EER BIRRA IS NEARLY ALWAYS A LAGER TYPE BREW THAT COMES IN BOTTLES OR ON TAP ALLA SPINA n STANDARD MEASURES ARE A THIRD OF A LITRE PICCOLA AND TWO THIRDS OF A LITRE MEDIA #OMMONEST AND CHEAPEST ARE THE )TALIAN BRANDS 0ERONI -ORETTI AND $REHER ALL OF WHICH ARE VERY DRINKABLE TO ORDER THESE EITHER STATE THE BRAND NAME OR ASK FOR BIRRA NAZIONALE n OTHERWISE YOU MAY BE GIVEN A MORE EXPENSIVE IMPORTED BEER 9OU MAY ALSO COME ACROSS DARKER BEERS BIRRA SCURA OR BIRRA ROSSA WHICH HAVE A SWEETER MALTIER TASTE AND RESEMBLE STOUT OR BITTER !LL THE USUAL SPIRITS ARE ON SALE AND KNOWN MOSTLY BY THEIR GENERIC NAMES 4HERE ARE ALSO )TALIAN BRANDS OF THE MAIN VARIETIES THE BEST LOCAL BRANDIES ARE 3TOCK AND 6ECCHIA 2OMAGNA ! GENEROUS SHOT OF THESE COSTS ABOUT + MUCH MORE FOR IMPORTED STUFF OR IN SMART CITY BARS 4HE HOME GROWN )TALIAN lREWATER IS GRAPPA ORIGINALLY FROM "ASSANO DI 'RAPPA IN THE 6ENETO BUT NOW PRODUCED JUST ABOUT EVERYWHERE 'RAPPAS ARE MADE FROM THE LEFTOVERS OF THE WINEMAKING PROC ESS SKINS STALKS AND THE LIKE AND DRUNK AS DIGESTIVI AFTER A MEAL 4HE BEST 4USCAN VARIE TIES ARE FROM -ONTALCINO "RUNELLO AND -ON TEPULCIANO 9OULL ALSO lND FORTIlED WINES LIKE -ARTINI #INZANO AND #AMPARI &OR THE REAL THING ORDER UN #AMPARI BITTER ASK FOR A h#AMPARI SODAv AND YOULL GET A READY MIXED VERSION FROM A LITTLE BOTTLE ,EMON 3ODA SEE ABOVE AND #AMPARI BITTER MAKES A DELICIOUS AND DANGEROUSLY DRINKABLE COMBINATION 4HE
7INE
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0URSUIT OF WINE IS AS GOOD A REASON AS ANY FOR A VISIT TO 4USCANY 4HE PROVINCE CONSTI TUTES THE HEARTLAND OF )TALIAN WINE PRODUCTION WITH SALES OF #HIANTI ACCOUNTING FOR MUCH OF THE COUNTRYS WINE EXPORTS AND THE TOWNS OF -ONTALCINO AND -ONTEPULCIANO PRODUCING TWO OF THE VERY lNEST )TALIAN VINTAGES "RUNEL LO AND 6INO .OBILE RESPECTIVELY 5MBRIA BY CONTRAST IS LOW KEY EXCEPT FOR THE WHITE /RVIETO n A LONG ESTABLISHED WINE DEVELOPED BY THE %TRUSCANS n BUT IS INCREASINGLY PRO DUCING TOP QUALITY THOUGH AS YET LITTLE KNOWN WINES 5NTIL RECENTLY MOST 4USCAN WINES n INCLUD ING #HIANTI n WERE CRITICIZED BY WINE BUFFS FOR METHODS GEARED PRINCIPALLY TO HIGH YIELDS LOW PRICES AND NEVER MIND THE QUALITY (OWEVER NUDGED ALONG BY THE $/# LAWS SEE BOX STANDARDS HAVE STEADILY RISEN "ESIDES THE lNER TUNING OF ESTABLISHED NAMES THERES A
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NON ALCOHOLIC #RODINO EASILY RECOGNIZABLE BY ITS LURID ORANGE COLOUR IS ALSO A POPULAR APERITIVO 9OU MIGHT ALSO TRY #YNAR AN ARTI CHOKE BASED SHERRY TYPE LIQUID OFTEN DRUNK AS AN APERITIF 4HERES A DAUNTING SELECTION OF LIQUEURS !MARO IS A BITTER AFTER DINNER DRINK AND PROBABLY THE MOST POPULAR WAY AMONG )TAL IANS TO ROUND OFF A MEAL 4HE TOP BRANDS IN RISING ORDER OF BITTERNESS ARE -ONTENE GRO 2AMAZOTTI !VERNA AND &ERNET "RANCA !MARETTO IS A MUCH SWEETER CONCOCTION WITH A STRONG TASTE OF MARZIPAN 3AMBUCA IS A STICKY SWEET ANISEED BREW OFTEN SERVED WITH A COFFEE BEAN IN IT AND SET ON lRE 3TREGA IS ANOTHER DRINK YOULL SEE IN EVERY BAR n THE YELLOW STUFF IN ELONGATED BOTTLES ITS AS SWEET AS IT LOOKS BUT NOT UNPLEASANT !LSO POPULAR THOUGH CONSIDERED SLIGHTLY NAFF IN )TALY IS LIMONCELLO A BITTER SWEET LEMON SPIRIT THATS BECOMING INCREASINGLY TRENDY ABROAD
$ENOMINAZIONE D/RIGINE 4HE $ENOMINAZIONE D/RIGINE SYSTEM IS THE KEY TO UNDERSTANDING WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN )TALIAN WINE BUT IT SHOULDNT BE SEEN AS ANY SORT OF GUARANTEE 4HE DENOMINATION IS A CERTIlCATION OF ORIGIN NOT OF QUALITY AND WHILE IT MAY MEAN A WINE WILL BE DRINKABLE STICK TO IT TOO RIGIDLY AND YOU COULD MISS OUT $ENOMINATION ZONES ARE SET BY GOVERNMENT DECREE 4HEY SPECIFY WHERE A CERTAIN NAMED WINE MAY BE MADE WHAT GRAPE VARIETIES MAY BE USED THE MAXIMUM YIELD OF GRAPES PER HECTARE AND FOR HOW LONG THE WINE SHOULD BE AGED $ENOMINAZIONE D/RIGINE #ONTROLLATA $/# GUARANTEES THE ORIGIN OF THE WINE AND THAT IT HAS BEEN MADE TO THE SPECIlCATION OF THE RULES FOR THE ZONE IN WHICH ITS PRODUCED 6INO DA TAVOLA TABLE WINE IS SIMPLY WINE THAT DOES NOT CONFORM TO THE $/# LAWS ALTHOUGH THAT DOESNT NECESSARILY MEAN ITS BAD #URRENTLY WINES ARE CLASSED AS $/# $ENOMINAZIONE D/RIGINE #ONTROLLATA E 'ARANTITA $/#' IS THE ONLY DESIGNATION THAT HAS ANY REAL MEANING %STABLISHED IN AND AWARDED TO ONLY A HANDFUL OF WINES n NOTABLY "RUNELLO DI -ONTALCINO 6INO .OBILE DI -ONTEPULCIANO #HIANTI "AROLO AND "ARBARESCO n THIS CLASSIlCATION NOW EXTENDS TO WINES WHICH NOT ONLY HAVE TO CONFORM TO $/# LAWS BUT ARE ALSO QUALITY TESTED BY GOVERNMENT APPOINTED INSPECTORS 4HOUGH ITS UNDOUBTEDLY TRUE THAT THE $/# SYSTEM HAS HELPED RAISE STANDARDS THE LAWS HAVE COME UNDER lRE FROM BOTH GROWERS AND CRITICS FOR THEIR RIGIDITY WHICH CAN THROW UP MISLEADING ANOMALIES DEPENDING ON THE VINTAGE #HIANTI FOR INSTANCE CAN DENOTE A WINE OF PEDIGREE TO BE TREATED WITH REVERENCE A QUAFFABLE LUNCHTIME DRINK OR A SIMPLY APPALLING PLONK n YET ALL QUALIFY FOR A $/# LABEL REGARDLESS 3OME CLAIM TOO THAT THE RESTRICTIONS OF THE $/#' ARE UNDERMINING CREDIBILITY THE REQUIREMENT FOR AGEING CAN MEAN THAT ALL THE FRUITINESS OF IMPORTANT REDS SUCH AS "AROLO IS DESTROYED WHILE THE ELEVATION OF !LBANA DI 2OMAGNA A SOMEWHAT ORDINARY WHITE TO $/#' STATUS HAS CAUSED CONSTERNATION )NCREASINGLY PRODUCERS IN 4USCANY AND ELSEWHERE WHO ARE EAGER TO EXPERIMENT ARE DISREGARDING THE RULES THE SOMETIMES EXPENSIVE NEW WINES THEY PRODUCE QUALIFY AS AMONG )TALYS BEST AND HAVE BEEN NICKNAMED h3UPER 4USCANSv DESPITE STILL OFlCIALLY BEING LABELLED VINO DA TAVOLA
! WINE CHECKLIST 4USCANY
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"IANCO DI 0ITIGLIANO $ELICATE DRY WHITE FROM SOUTHERN 4USCANY "IANCO 6ERGINE DELLA 6ALDICHIANA 3OFT DRY WHITE FROM THE AREA SOUTH OF !REZZO "RUNELLO DI -ONTALCINO &ULL BODIED RED FROM SOUTH OF 3IENA ONE OF )TALYS lNEST WINES #ARMIGNANO ! DRY RED PRODUCED IN THE REGION WEST OF &LORENCE THIS AREA ALSO PRODUCES 6IN 2USPO A FRESH ROSÏ #HIANTI 0RODUCED IN SEVEN DISTINCT CENTRAL 4USCAN DISTRICTS 2ANGES FROM THE ROUGHEST TABLE WINE TO SOME OF )TALYS MOST ELEGANT REDS -ORE DETAILS ON P #OLLINE ,UCCHESI ! SOFT AND LIVELY $/# RED FROM THE HILLS EAST OF ,UCCA 'ALESTRO ,IGHT DRY SUMMER WHITE n A RECENT DEVELOPMENT MOTIVATED PARTLY BY THE NEED TO lND SOME USE FOR THE SURPLUS OF LOW GRADE WHITE WINE PRODUCED IN #HIANTI 'RATTAMACCO 0RODUCED SOUTHEAST OF ,IVORNO THIS NON $/# WINE COMES AS A FRUITY WHITE AND A FULL DRY RED -ONTECARLO ! FULL AND DRY WHITE n ONE OF 4USCANYS lNEST n FROM EAST OF ,UCCA -ONTECUCCO .EW $/# RED FROM #INIGIANO AND #IVITELLA 0AGANICO NEAR 'ROSSETO -ONTEREGIO DI -ASSA -ARITTIMA !NOTHER NEWISH $/# RED FROM THE !LTA -AREMMA REGION -ORELLINO DI 3CANSANO ! FAIRLY DRY ROBUST UP AND COMING $/# RED MADE SOUTHEAST OF 'ROSSETO 0OMINO .EW $/# FROM NEAR 2ÞlNA RED WHITE AND 6INSANTO 2OSSO DI -ONTALCINO ! FULL BODIED $/# FROM THE -ONTALCINO AREA AGED LESS THAN THE GREAT "RUNELLO DI -ONTALCINO 2OSSO DI -ONTEPULCIANO %XCELLENT VALUE RED TABLE WINE 3AMMARCO "IG #ABERNET WINE FROM THE #HIANTI REGION 3ASSICAIA &ULL RUBY WINE BEST LEFT A FEW YEARS FROM NEAR ,IVORNO 3OLAIA !NOTHER #ABERNET 3AUVIGNON FROM THE !NTINORI ESTATE 3PUMANTE 3PARKLING WINES ARE A RELATIVELY NEW DEPARTURE IN 4USCANY BUT VINEYARDS ALL OVER THE PROVINCE ARE NOW USING THE CHAMPENOISE OR CHARMAT METHOD TO PRODUCE QUALITY VINTAGES GOOD DEAL OF EXPERIMENTATION GOING ON WITH &RENCH GRAPE VARIETIES SUCH AS #HARDONNAY 3AUVIGNON AND THE 0INOTS BEING ADDED TO THE BLENDS OF 4USCAN WINES AND PRODUCERS USING THE &RENCH TECHNIQUE OF BARRIQUES LITRE OAK CASKS FOR AGEING REDS AND WHITES 4HE SNOBBERY ASSOCIATED WITH hSERIOUSv WINE DRINKING REMAINS FOR THE MOST PART MERCIFULLY ABSENT ,IGHT REDS SUCH AS THOSE MADE FROM THE DOLCETTO GRAPE ARE REFRIGER ATED IN HOT WEATHER WHILE SOME FULL BODIED WHITES ARE DRUNK AT OR NEAR ROOM TEMPERA TURE 7INE IS ALSO VERY INEXPENSIVE IN SOME BARS YOU CAN GET A GLASS OF GOOD LOCAL PRO DUCE FOR AS LITTLE AS + AND TABLE WINE IN RESTAURANTS n OFTEN DECANTED FROM THE BARREL n RARELY COSTS MORE THAN + PER LITRE -AJOR NAME BOTTLES ARE PRICIER BUT STILL VERY GOOD VALUE EXPECT TO PAY FROM AROUND + A BOT TLE IN A RESTAURANT LESS THAN HALF THAT FROM A SHOP OR SUPERMARKET
4USCAN WINE 4HE WINES OF 4USCANY ARE PREDOMINANTLY BASED ON THE LOCAL 3ANGIOVESE GRAPE THE FOUNDATION OF HEAVYWEIGHTS SUCH AS #HIANTI "RUNELLO DI -ONTALCINO AND 6INO .OBILE DI -ONTEPULCIANO 4RADITIONALLY THE BEST 4USCAN WINES ARE REDS BUT NEW TECHNIQUES HAVE BOOSTED THE QUALITY OF MANY WHITES #HIANTI THE ARCHETYPAL )TALIAN WINE IS THE MOST DIFlCULT TO CHARACTERIZE AS THE VINTAGES PRODUCED BY THE SEVEN #HIANTI DISTRICTS SEE BOX P VARY FROM THE LIGHTEST SWILLABLE STUFF TO DEEP TONED MASTERPIECES AGED IN THE CELLARS OF ANCIENT CASTLES 4HE CORE OF #HIANTI COUNTRY IS THE #HIANTI #LASSICO REGION BETWEEN &LORENCE AND 3IENA AND EVEN WITHIN THIS WELL DElNED ZONE THERE ARE SO MANY VARIABLES OF CLIMATE AND TERRAIN THAT THE CHARACTER OF THE WINE BOTTLED IN ONE ESTATE MIGHT BE ENTIRELY DISTINCT FROM THE NEIGHBOURING PRODUCT 4HIS
#ABERNET 3AUVIGNON DI -IRALDUOLO 0URPLISH DRY RED FROM 4ORGIANO #ERVARO DELLA 3ALA ! NEW WHITE WINE AGED IN &RENCH OAK #HARDONNAY DI -IRALDUOLO &LOWERY DRY WHITE FROM 4ORGIANO ALSO AGED IN WOOD #OLLI !LTOTIBERINI ! PROMISING NEW 4IBER VALLEY $/# BEST DRUNK YOUNG #OLLI !MERINI !NOTHER NEW $/# BEST KNOWN FOR ITS REDS #OLLI 0ERUGINI 5MBRIAS NEWEST $/# n RED WHITE AND ROSÏ #OLLI DEL 4RASIMENO (UGE AREA PRODUCING REDS AND WHITES OF EVER RISING STANDARD $ECUGNANO DEI "ARBI 2OSSO &RUITY RED FROM NEAR ,AGO DI #ORBARA -ONTEFALCO &ROM THE HILLS CLOSE TO &OLIGNO -ONTEFALCO 2OSSO A SOFT DRY RED AND THE MORE ROBUST 3AGRANTINO DI -ONTEFALCO PLUS 3AGRANTINO 0ASSITO A SUPERB RED DESSERT WINE SEE P /RVIETO 5MBRIAS MOST FAMOUS $/# WINE A DRY LIGHT WHITE OR A LIGHTLY SWEET DESSERT WINE ABBOCCATO 3AN 'IORGIO ! BOLD FULL BODIED RED MADE IN 4ORGIANO 3OLLEONE $RY SHERRY LIKE APERITIF 4ORGIANO $/# REGION SOUTHEAST OF 0ERUGIA PRODUCING BOTH RED AND WHITE WINES LOOK OUT FOR THE DRY FRUITY WHITE 4ORRE DI 'IANO THE WOOD AGED WHITE 4ORRE DI 'IANO 2ISERVA AND THE OPULENT 2UBESCO 2ISERVA ONE OF )TALYS lNEST REDS
MAKES IT AS DIFlCULT TO GET A FULL GRASP OF THE SUBJECT OF #HIANTI WINE AS IT IS TO MASTER THE INTRICACIES OF "ORDEAUX BUT IT DOES MAKE A TASTING TOUR A HIGHLY REWARDING EXPERIENCE 4HE GREATEST 4USCAN RED "RUNELLO DI -ONTALCINO IS PRODUCED JUST OUTSIDE THE #HIANTI REGION AROUND THE HILL TOWN OF -ON TALCINO SOUTH OF 3IENA &IRST CREATED A LITTLE OVER A CENTURY AGO ITS A POWERFUL COMPLEX AND LONG LASTING WINE WHOSE lNEST VINTAGES SELL AT STRATOSPHERIC PRICES -ORE ACCESSIBLE IS THE YOUTHFUL 2OSSO DI -ONTALCINO OFFER ING A CUT PRICE GLIMPSE OF "RUNELLOS MAJESTY 4HE MIGHTY IF INCONSISTENT 6INO .OBILE DI -ONTEPULCIANO COMPLETES THE UPPER TIER OF THE 4USCAN WINE HIERARCHY AND SIMILARLY -ONTEPULCIANO HAS A GOOD REGULAR RED PRO DUCED BY LESS COMPLEX METHODS (IGHLY REGARDED #ARMIGNANO FROM NEAR &LORENCE TRACES ITS PEDIGREE BACK TO WHILE 0OMINO FROM THE -UGELLO REGION
IS EQUALLY ANCIENT AND CONSISTENTLY GOOD AVAILABLE AS AN EXCELLENT RED AND AS A WHITE MADE FROM #HARDONNAY AND 0INOT GRAPES ! RAPIDLY IMPROVING ALTERNATIVE RED $/# IS -ORELLINO DI 3CANSANO FROM THE COASTAL -AREMMA VINEYARDS .ON $/# WINES INCLUDE SOME OF THE MOST FASHIONABLE 4USCAN PRODUCTS 3ASSICAIA PRO DUCED NEAR ,IVORNO FROM #ABERNET 3AUVIGNON GRAPES WAS DESCRIBED BY (UGH *OHNSON AS hPERHAPS )TALYS BEST RED WINEv 4HE #HIANTI BASED !NTINORI ESTATE A PILLAR OF THE 4USCAN WINE ESTABLISHMENT JOINED THE EXPERIMENTAL WAVE IN MERGING 3ANGIOVESE AND #ABERNET 3AUVIGNON TO MAKE THE TOP RATED 4IGNANEL LO #ABERNET BASED WINES HAVE TENDED TO STEAL THE LIMELIGHT FROM OTHER INNOVATIONS IN RECENT YEARS WITH #ASTELLO DEI 2AMPOLLIS 3AMMARCO !NTINORIS 3OLAIA AND 4AVERN ELLE FROM THE 6ILLA "ANl DOING ESPECIALLY WELL IN BLIND TASTINGS (OWEVER -ERLOT AND 0INOT
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4AVERNELLE #ALIFORNIA STYLE RED FROM WESTERN #HIANTI 4IGNANELLO 4RADITIONAL 3ANGIOVESE #HIANTI AGAIN FROM !NTINORI 6ERNACCIA DI 3AN 'IMIGNANO 3UBTLE DRY WHITE $/# FROM THE HILLS OF 3AN 'IMIGNANO 6INO .OBILE DI -ONTEPULCIANO ! FULL CLASSY RED $/#' FROM AROUND -ONTEPULCIANO SOUTH OF 3IENA 6INSANTO 4OSCANO !ROMATIC WINE MADE FROM SEMI DRIED GRAPES AND SEALED IN CASKS FOR AT LEAST THREE YEARS 0RODUCED ALL OVER 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA TOO IT RANGES FROM DRY TO SWEET AND IS OFTEN SERVED AT DESSERT
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\ #OMMUNICATIONS
.OIR GRAPES HAVE BEGUN TO THRIVE IN 4USCANY WHILE WHITE WINE PRODUCERS ARE ACHIEVING EXCELLENT RESULTS WITH #HARDONNAY 3AUVIGNON "LANC THE 0INOT VARIETIES AND EVEN 2IESLING AND 'EWURZTRAMINER USUALLY CONSIDERED TO BE BEST SUITED TO COOLER ZONES 4WO TOP WHITE WINES ARE 6ERNACCIA DI 3AN 'IMIGNANO AND "IANCO DI -ONTECARLO THOUGH THE FORMER IS OF VARIABLE QUALITY
5MBRIAN WINE 5MBRIA HAS ONLY A HANDFUL OF $/# REGIONS MANY PRODUCING CHEAP SERVICEABLE WINE THAT RARELY lNDS ITS WAY OUTSIDE THE REGION -OST ARE MADE FROM SIMILAR GRAPES AND IN SIMILAR WAYS TO THE WORKADAY REDS OF 4US CANY HOWEVER INNOVATION IS PRODUCING EVER MORE INTERESTING HIGH QUALITY VINTAGES AND THERES A TROVE OF LITTLE KNOWN WINES THAT REPAY SEARCHING OUT 4HE REGIONS MOST FAMOUS LIQUID EXPORT /RVIETO HAS IN RECENT TIMES BEEN REDUCED TO A SHADOW OF ITS FORMER SELF AS LOCAL PRO DUCERS REALIZED THAT THE WORLD MARKET WAS TURNING TO DRY CRISP WINES )N RESPONSE THEY TRANSFORMED THE VENERABLE VINTAGE OF ANTIQUITY n TRADITIONALLY A SEMI SWEET ABBOC CATO n INTO A MASS PRODUCED PLONK FOR THE SUPERMARKET SHELF -ORE AMBITIOUS PRODUC ERS HOWEVER ARE RETURNING TO THE OLD WINE AND WITH PATIENCE YOULL lND SAMPLES OF THE REVAMPED PRODUCT IN AND AROUND THE TOWN /RVIETOS PRE EMINENCE IN 5MBRIA ITSELF HAS
BEEN TAKEN OVER BY 'RECHETTO A CHEAP AND ALMOST UNFAILINGLY RELIABLE WHITE MADE BY COUNTLESS PRODUCERS ACROSS THE REGION FROM THE EPONYMOUS GRAPE !MONGST THE MOST FAMOUS OF THE REGIONS NEW NAMES IS 'IORGIO ,UNGAROTTI AT 4ORGIANO NEAR 0ERUGIA WHO EMPLOYS NEW GRAPE VARIE TIES AND INNOVATIVE TECHNIQUES TO PRODUCE SOME OF )TALYS lNEST WINES !NYTHING WITH HIS NAME ON THE LABEL SHOULD BE GOOD AND IN SOME CASES n FOR INSTANCE THE 2UBESCO 2ISERVA n OF ALMOST UNPARALLELED EXCELLENCE /THER KEY NAMES INCLUDE !NTINORI THE BIG 4USCAN PRODUCERS WHO IN 5MBRIA MAKE WINE AT 3ALA TO THE NORTH OF /RVIETO LOOK OUT FOR THEIR #ERVARO DELLA 3ALA /THER EXPONENTS OF 5MBRIAS QUEST FOR QUALITY ARE CONCENTRATED IN THE NEW -ONTE FALCO $/# REGION A TINY AREA WHOSE WINES ARE AT LAST BECOMING OBTAINABLE OUTSIDE ITS ENVIRONS THE REDS ARE EXCELLENT THE KEY PRODUCER BEING !DANTI 3IMILAR PROGRESS IS BEING MADE IN THE 5PPER 4IBER ABOVE 0ERU GIA WHERE MUCH IS EXPECTED OF THE #OLLI !LTOTIBERINI $/# 4HE REGION AROUND !SSISI AND !MELIA #OLLI !MERINI IS ALSO PRODUC ING EVER IMPROVING WINES AGAIN MOST OF THE VINTAGES ARE RELIABLE AND FEW OF THEM AVAILABLE ANYWHERE BUT 5MBRIA 4HE #OLLI 0ERUGINI AND #OLLI DEL 4RASIMENO WINES ARE THE REGIONS MOST HUMBLE THE LATTER INCLUDE OFFERINGS FROM THE ,AMBORGHINI VINEYARD n HE OF SPORTS CAR FAME
#OMMUNICATIONS 0OST
/PENING HOURS OF MAIN POST OFlCES ARE USUALLY -ONn3AT AMnPM ALTHOUGH SMALLER OFlCES ARE OPEN MORNINGS ONLY -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnNOON 9OU CAN ALSO BUY STAMPS FRANCOBOLLI IN TABACCHI AND IN SOME GIFTSHOPS IN THE TOUR IST RESORTS 4HE )TALIAN POSTAL SYSTEM IS ONE OF THE SLOWEST IN %UROPE SO IF YOUR LETTER IS
URGENT MAKE SURE YOU SEND IT POSTA PRI ORITARIA WHICH HAS VARYING RATES ACCORDING TO WEIGHT AND DESTINATION ,ETTERS CAN BE SENT POSTE RESTANTE GENERAL DELIVERY TO ANY )TAL IAN POST OFlCE BY ADDRESSING THEM h&ERMO 0OSTAv FOLLOWED BY THE NAME OF THE TOWN YOUR SURNAME SHOULD BE DOUBLE UNDERLINED FOR EASIER IDENTIlCATION AS lLING IS OFTEN DIABOLICAL WHEN PICKING ITEMS UP TAKE YOUR PASSPORT AND n IN CASE OF DIFlCULTY n MAKE
SURE THEY ALSO CHECK UNDER YOUR MIDDLE NAMES AND INITIALS
0HONING HOME FROM )TALY 9OU CAN CALL ABROAD FROM NEARLY ALL PUBLIC PHONES WITH AN INTERNATIONAL PHONE CARD
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0UBLIC PHONES RUN BY 4ELECOM )TALIA COME IN VARIOUS FORMS USUALLY WITH CLEAR INSTRUCTIONS IN %NGLISH IF YOU CANT lND A PHONE BOX BARS WILL OFTEN HAVE A PHONE YOU CAN USE n LOOK FOR THE YELLOW OR RED PHONE SYMBOL 3OME PUBLIC PHONES ACCEPT COINS BUT MANY DO NOT AND OTHERS HAVE A TENDENCY TO SWALLOW THE CASH BEFORE ANNOUNCING THAT THEY ARE OUT OF ORDER SO YOULL ALMOST CERTAINLY HAVE TO BUY A PHONECARD CARTA OR SCHEDA TELEFONICA AVAIL ABLE FROM TABACCHI AND NEWSSTANDS 4HERE ARE TWO TYPES OF CARTA TELEFONICA ONE IS A RIGID PLASTIC CARD WHICH HAS A MICROCHIP IN IT ON SOME OF THESE YOU HAVE TO SNAP OFF A CORNER OF THE CARD BEFORE INSERTING IT INTO THE PHONE BOX THE OTHER IS A MORE FRAGILE PIECE OF PLASTIC THAT FUNCTIONS AS A SORT OF CREDIT CARD 7ITH THE LATTER TYPE ITS NECESSARY TO CALL A FREE OPERATOR NUMBER GIVEN ON THE BACK OF THE CARD WHEN YOU USE IT FOR THE lRST TIME AND TO KEY IN A 0). NUMBER FOR SUBSEQUENT CALLS n A COMPLICATED PROCESS THAT HAS A HIGH FAILURE RATE SO YOURE BEST ADVISED TO STICK TO THE MICROCHIP VARI ETY 4ARIFFS ARE AMONG THE MOST EXPENSIVE IN %UROPE &OR NATIONAL CALLS THE OFF PEAK PERIOD RUNS -ONn&RI PMnAM THEN 3AT PM UNTIL -ON AM 0HONE NUMBERS CHANGE WITH AMAZING FRE QUENCY IN )TALY IF IN DOUBT CONSULT THE LOCAL DIRECTORY n THERES A COPY IN MOST BARS HOTELS AND PHONE OFlCES !REA CODES ARE NOW AN INTEGRAL PART OF THE NUMBER AND MUST ALWAYS BE DIALLED REGARDLESS OF WHERE YOURE CALLING FROM .UMBERS BEGINNING ARE FREE AN %NGLISH SPEAKING OPERATOR IS ON AND INTERNATIONAL DIRECTORY ENQUIRIES IS ON 4O USE YOUR MOBILE PHONE CHECK WITH YOUR PROVIDER WHETHER IT WILL WORK IN )TALY AND WHAT THE CHARGES WILL BE 4ECHNOLOGY IN )TALY IS '3- WWWGSMWORLDCOM 5NLESS YOU HAVE A TRIBAND PHONE ITS UNLIKELY THAT A MOBILE BOUGHT FOR USE IN .ORTH !MERICA WILL WORK ELSEWHERE -OST MOBILES IN !USTRALIA AND .EW :EALAND ARE '3- BUT IT PAYS TO CHECK BEFORE YOU LEAVE HOME
" ! 3)#3 #OMMUNICATIONS
0HONES
CARTA OR SCHEDA TELEFONICA INTERNAZIONALE 4HESE ARE ON SALE AT MANY NEWSPAPER KIOSKS AND TABACCHI AND START AT + n THOUGH YOU WILL NEED MORE THAN THAT FOR ANYTHING BUT THE BRIEFEST OF CHATS !LTERNATIVELY YOU MIGHT CONSIDER A PHONE CHARGE CARD FROM YOUR PHONE COMPANY BACK HOME MOST PROVID ERS IN %UROPE .ORTH !MERICA !USTRALIA AND .EW :EALAND HAVE THEIR OWN VERSIONS 5SING A 0). NUMBER THEY LET YOU MAKE CALLS FROM MOST HOTEL PUBLIC AND PRIVATE PHONES n VIA A TOLL FREE )TALIAN NUMBER n THAT ARE CHARGED TO YOUR HOME ACCOUNT -OST ARE FREE TO OBTAIN BUT BEAR IN MIND THAT RATES ARENT NECESSARILY CHEAPER THAN CALLING FROM A PUBLIC PHONE 7ITHOUT THESE CARDS YOU CAN MAKE REVERSE CHARGE OR COLLECT CALLS CHIAMATA CON ADDEBITO DESTINATARIO BY DIALLING AND FOLLOWING THE RECORDED INSTRUCTIONS $IAL LING DIRECT THE OFF PEAK PERIOD FOR INTERNA TIONAL CALLS IS -ONn3AT PMnAM AND ALL DAY 3UN 4O THE 5+ AREA CODE WITHOUT THE ZERO NUMBER 4O )RELAND AREA CODE WITHOUT THE ZERO NUMBER 4O THE 53 OR #ANADA AREA CODE NUMBER 4O !USTRALIA AREA CODE WITHOUT THE ZERO NUMBER 4O .EW :EALAND AREA CODE WITHOUT THE ZERO NUMBER
#ALLING )TALY FROM ABROAD &IRST DIAL YOUR INTERNATIONAL ACCESS CODE FROM THE 5+ )RELAND AND .EW :EALAND FROM THE 53 AND #ANADA FROM !USTRALIA FOLLOWED BY FOR )TALY FOLLOWED BY THE FULL )TALIAN NUMBER INCLUDING THE LEAD ING ZERO
%MAIL !N EASY WAY TO KEEP IN TOUCH WHILE TRAVELLING IS TO SIGN UP FOR A FREE INTERNET EMAIL ADDRESS THAT CAN BE ACCESSED FROM ANYWHERE VIA THE 7ORLD 7IDE 7EB 9AHOO-AIL WWW YAHOOCOM AND (OTMAIL WWWHOTMAIL COM ARE THE TWO MOST POPULAR BUT THERE ARE THOUSANDS OF OTHERS /NCE YOUVE SET UP AN ACCOUNT YOU CAN USE THE COMPANYS WEBSITE TO PICK UP AND SEND MAIL FROM ANY )NTERNET CAFÏ OR HOTEL WITH )NTERNET ACCESS
" ! 3)#3
\ 4HE MEDIA
)NTERNET POINTS ARE NOW WIDESPREAD IN LARGER TOWNS TOURIST RESORTS AND ARE EVEN PRESENT IN SOME OF THE SMALLER CENTRES THOUGH THEYRE NOT ALWAYS WELL ADVERTISED OFTEN YOULL lND THEM HIDDEN WITHIN A NEWSAGENT OR COMPU TER SHOP 2ECKON ON PAYING AROUND + FOR HALF AN HOUR ONLINE LESS IF YOURE A STUDENT
WWWKROPLACOM IS A USEFUL WEBSITE GIVING DETAILS OF HOW TO PLUG YOUR LAPTOP IN WHEN ABROAD PHONE CODES AROUND THE WORLD AND INFORMATION ABOUT ELECTRICAL SYS TEMS IN DIFFERENT COUNTRIES
4HE MEDIA ,OCAL AND NATIONAL NEWSPAPERS ARE READILY AVAILABLE AND FORM AN ESSENTIAL ACCOM PANIMENT TO BAR CULTURE IN SMALL TOWNS FOLK ARE DRAWN TO A BAR FOR A READ NOT A DRINK (OWEVER TELEVISION PLAYS A CENTRAL ROLE IN )TALIAN LIFE ITS A RARE HOUSEHOLD THAT DOESNT HAVE THE 46 SWITCHED ON FROM MORNING TO NIGHT REGARDLESS OF THE POOR QUALITY OF )TALYS NUMEROUS LOCAL AND HEAVILY CENSORED NATIONAL CHANNELS
.EWSPAPERS
4USCANYS MAJOR NEWSPAPER IS THE &LORENCE BASED ,A .AZIONE WWWLANAZIONEIT 4HIS IS TECHNICALLY A NATIONAL PAPER BUT ITS SALES ARE CONCENTRATED IN THE CENTRAL PROVINCES OF )TALY )T PRODUCES LOCAL EDITIONS WITH SUPPLE MENTS INCLUDING INFORMATIVE ENTERTAINMENTS LISTINGS FOR VIRTUALLY EVERY MAJOR 4USCAN TOWN 5MBRIAS INTENSELY PROVINCIAL AND VERY WIDELY READ TABLOID FORMAT PAPER IS THE #OR RIERE DELL5MBRIA WWWCORRIT /F THE OTHER NATIONALS THE CENTRE LEFT ,A 2EPUBBLICA AND AUTHORITATIVE RIGHT SLANTED #ORRIERE DELLA 3ERA ARE THE TWO MOST WIDELY READ AND AVAILABLE ,5NITÌ THE $EMOCRATIC ,EFT $3 ORGAN HAS EXPERIENCED HARD TIMES EVEN IN THE PARTYS 4USCAN STRONGHOLDS 4HE MOST AVIDLY READ PAPERS OF ALL ARE THE PINK 'AZZETTA DELLO 3PORT AND #ORRIERE DELLO 3PORT ESSENTIAL READING FOR THE SERIOUS )TALIAN SPORTS FAN THEY DEVOTE AS MUCH ATTENTION TO PLAYERS ANKLE PROBLEMS AS MOST PAPERS WOULD GIVE TO THE RESIGNATION OF A GOVERNMENT .EWS MAGAZINES ARE ALSO WIDELY READ IN )TALY FROM THE SIMILAR ,%SPRESSO AND 0ANORAMA TO THE LIGHTER OFFERINGS OF 'ENTE /GGI AND .OVELLA %NGLISH AND 53 NEWSPAPERS CAN BE FOUND FOR AROUND TWICE THE NORMAL PRICE IN
ALL THE LARGER TOWNS AND ESTABLISHED RESORTS USUALLY ON THE DAY OF ISSUE IN BIGGER CITIES LIKE &LORENCE AND 3IENA 0AN %UROPEAN EDITIONS OF "RITAINS 'UARDIAN AND &INANCIAL 4IMES AND THE 2OME EDITIONS OF THE )NTERNATIONAL (ERALD 4RIBUNE AND 53! 4ODAY ARE ALSO USU ALLY AVAILABLE ON THE DAY OF PUBLICATION
46 AND RADIO )TALYS THREE MAIN NATIONAL 46 CHANNELS ARE 2!) AND 3ILVIO "ERLUSCONIS &ININVEST RUNS THREE ADDITIONAL NATIONWIDE CHANNELS #ANALE 4' AND )TALIA !LTHOUGH ALL SIX ARE BLATANTLY PRO "ERLUSCONI THE DEGREE OF SYCOPHANCY DISPLAYED ON THE 4' NEWS HAS REACHED SUCH LUDICROUS HEIGHTS NEWSCASTER %MILIO &EDE IS VARIOUSLY OVERCOME BY TEARS OF JOY OR DESPAIR DEPENDING ON THE FORTUNES OF "ERLUSCONI THAT MOST )TALIANS NOW TUNE IN SOLELY FOR A GIGGLE 4HE OTHER MAIN CHANNEL IS 4ELEMONTECARLO CURRENTLY REACHING SEVENTY PERCENT OF THE COUNTRY !LTHOUGH THE STORIES OF )TALIAN 46S STRIPPING HOUSEWIVES ARE OVERPLAYED THE OUTPUT IS PRETTY BLAND ACROSS THE BOARD WITH THE ACCENT ON QUIZ SHOWS SOAPS AND PLENTY OF !MERICAN IMPORTS 4HE 2!) CHANNELS CARRY LESS ADVERTISING AND TRY TO MIX THE DROSS WITH ABOVE AVERAGE DOCU MENTARIES AND NEWS COVERAGE .UMEROUS
/PENING HOURS HOLIDAYS AND FESTIVALS 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA HAVE NO SHORTAGE OF RELIGIOUS TRADITIONAL AND CULTURAL FESTIVALS THROUGHOUT THE YEAR 4RAVELLING THROUGH AT #HRISTMAS %ASTER OR DURING THE SUM MER MONTHS YOURE LIKELY TO STUMBLE ACROSS LOCAL FESTIVALS CELEBRATING AN HISTORIC EVENT A PATRON SAINTS DAY A TOWNS LOCAL PRODUCE OR JUST A VILLAGE KNEES UP
/PENING HOURS )TALIAN OPENING HOURS ARE BECOMING MORE mEXIBLE -OST SHOPS AND BUSINESSES IN 4USCA NY AND 5MBRIA OPEN -ONn3AT FROM OR AM UNTIL AROUND PM AND AGAIN FROM ABOUT PM UNTIL OR PM THOUGH IN THE BIGGEST TOWNS MAJOR SHOPS AND OFlCES INCREASINGLY WORK TO A MORE STANDARD AM TO PM OR LATER 6IRTU ALLY EVERYTHING EXCEPT BARS AND RESTAURANTS n INCLUDING NON MOTORWAY SERVICE STATIONS n IS CLOSED ON 3UNDAY THOUGH YOU MIGHT lND PASTICCERIE OR BAKERS OPEN UNTIL 3UNDAY LUNCHTIME AND IN BIGGER TOURIST CENTRES ALL DAY OPENING ON 3UNDAY IS NOW COMMON -ANY NON FOOD SHOPS ARE CLOSED ON -ONDAY MORNINGS .UMEROUS BUSINESSES RESTAURANTS INCLUDED TAKE THEIR ANNUAL HOLIDAYS IN !UGUST /PENING HOURS FOR MUSEUMS GALLERIES CHURCHES AND ARCHEOLOGICAL SITES ARE MORE THAN USUALLY VARIED AND PRONE TO CHANGE WEVE DETAILED THEM WHEREVER POSSIBLE THROUGHOUT THE GUIDE
.ATIONAL HOLIDAYS 7HENEVER YOU VISIT YOU MAY WELL lND YOUR TRAVEL PLANS DISRUPTED BY NATIONAL HOLIDAYS
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4HERE ARE SOME GOOD SMALL SCALE STATIONS IF YOU SEARCH HARD ENOUGH BUT ON THE WHOLE THE 2!) STATIONS ARE THE MOST PROFESSIONAL n THOUGH EVEN WITH THEM DAYTIME LISTEN ING IS VIRTUALLY UNDILUTED DANCE MUSIC 4HE ""# 7ORLD 3ERVICE WWWBBCCOUK IS IN %NGLISH ON K(Z MEDIUM WAVE MOST OF THE DAY THEY ALSO BROADCAST CONTINUOUSLY ONLINE AS DO 6OICE OF !MERICA WWWVOA GOV 2ADIO #ANADA WWWRCINETCA AND OTHERS
" ! 3)#3 /PENING HOURS HOLIDAYS AND FESTIVALS
OTHER CHANNELS CONCENTRATE ON SPORT IF YOU WANT TO SEE THE WEEKENDS )TALIAN ,EAGUE FOOTBALL ACTION SETTLE INTO A BAR FROM PM ON A 3UNDAY 7HILE THERE ARE ALWAYS EXCEPTIONS YOU SHOULDNT EXPECT TOO MUCH FROM A HOTEL 46 IF SATELLITE CHANNELS ARE AVAILABLE AT ALL %NG LISH LANGUAGE OPTIONS ARE GENERALLY RESTRICTED TO ""# 7ORLD #.. AND LITTLE ELSE 2ADIO IS HIGHLY DEREGULATED IN )TALY WITH &- SO CROWDED THAT YOU CONTINUALLY PICK UP NEW STATIONS WHETHER YOU WANT TO OR NOT
AND LOCAL SAINTS DAYS ,OCAL RELIGIOUS HOLI DAYS DONT GENERALLY CLOSE DOWN SHOPS AND BUSINESSES BUT THEY DO MEAN THAT ACCOM MODATION SPACE MAY BE TIGHT (OWEVER EVE RYTHING EXCEPT SOME BARS AND RESTAURANTS CLOSES ON )TALYS OFlCIAL NATIONAL HOLIDAYS WHICH ARE *AN *AN %PIPHANY %ASTER -ONDAY !PRIL ,IBERATION $AY -AY ,ABOUR $AY !UG &ERRAGOSTO !SSUMPTION .OV /GNISSANTI !LL 3AINTS $EC )MMACULATE #ONCEPTION $EC $EC
&ESTIVALS "OTH 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA HAVE A PLETHORA OF LOCAL FESTIVALS WITH SAINTS DAYS BEING THE MOST COMMON EXCUSE FOR SOME KIND OF BINGE !LL CITIES SMALL TOWNS AND VILLAGES HAVE THEIR HOME PRODUCED SAINT WHOSE MORTAL REMAINS OR IMAGE ARE GENERALLY PARAD ED THROUGH THE STREETS AMID MUCH NOISE AND
4USCANY AND 5MBRIA FESTIVAL CALENDAR *ANUARY
" ! 3)#3
&OLIGNO &ESTA DI 3AN &ELICIANO *AN n TRADITIONAL FAIR 4REVI &ESTA DI 3ANT%MILIANO *AN n TORCHLIT PROCESSION
&EBRUARY
\ /PENING HOURS HOLIDAYS AND FESTIVALS
.ORCIA 4RUFmE AND SAUSAGE FESTIVAL &EB 3PELLO /LIVE AND BRUSCHETTA GARLIC TOAST FESTIVAL &EB 6IAREGGIO AND 3AN 'IMIGNANO #ARNEVALE EARLYMID &EB 4ERNI 3T 6ALENTINES $AY FAIR &EB !SSISI (OLY 7EEK CELEBRATIONS 'RASSINA NEAR &LORENCE 'UBBIO AND "EVAGNA NEAR 0ERUGIA 'OOD &RIDAY PROCESSIONS &LORENCE 3CIOPPIO DEL #ARRO %ASTER 3UN n lREWORKS IN 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO 3AN -INIATO .ATIONAL KITE mYING CHAMPIONSHIPS ST 3UN AFTER %ASTER
-ARCH .ORCIA #ROSSBOW COMPETITION -ARCH n
!PRIL -ONTECATINI 4ERME &ETTUNTA FESTIVAL !PRIL n AN OIL AND GARLIC SPECIALITY ,UCCA 3ACRED MUSIC FESTIVAL !PRILn*UNE &LORENCE -AGGIO -USICALE MUSIC FESTIVAL !PRILn*UNE
-AY 4ERNI #ANTA -AGGIO -AY n PARADE OF ILLUMINATED mOATS !SSISI #ALENDIMAGGIO EARLY -AY n SPRING FESTIVAL 'UBBIO #ORSA DEI #ERI -AY n CANDLE RACE &OLIGNO 'IOSTRO DELLA 1UINTANA -AY n MEDIEVAL JOUST -ASSA -ARÖTTIMA "ALESTRO DEL 'IRIFALCO ST 3UN AFTER -AY n CROSSBOW COMPETITION #ASCIA #ELEBRAZIONI 2ITIANE -AY n PROCESSION IN HONOUR OF 3T 2ITA 'UBBIO #ROSSBOW MATCHES AGAINST TEAM FROM 3ANSEPOLCRO LAST 3UN -ONTESPERTOLI 7INE FESTIVAL LAST 3UN
*UNE /RVIETO AND 3PELLO #ORPUS $OMINI PROCESSION EARLY *UNE 0ISA ,UMINARIA TORCHLIT PROCESSION PRECEDES 2EGATTA DI 3AN 2ANIERI BOAT RACE *UNE 3POLETO &ESTIVAL DEI $UE -ONDI n INTERNATIONALLY RENOWNED MONTH LONG EVENT A MIXTURE OF CLASSICAL CONCERTS lLMS BALLET STREET THEATRE AND PERFORMANCE ART STAGED IN THE ANCIENT WALLED TOWN *UNE *ULY 0ISA 'IOCO DEL 0ONTE RD 3UN n COSTUMED MOCK BATTLE .ARNI %XPERIMENTAL THEATRE SEASON *UNE n &LORENCE &ESTA DI 3AN 'IOVANNI MARKED BY lREWORKS AND THE 'IOCO DI #ALCIO 3TORICO FOOTBALL GAME WEEK BEGINNING *UNE &IESOLE %STATE &IESOLANA MID *UNE TO !UG n MUSIC CINEMA BALLET AND THEATRE 3AN 'IMIGNANO 3UMMER FESTIVAL OF MUSIC AND lLM LATE *UNE TO /CT "EVAGNA -ERCATO DELLE 'AITE LAST WEEK n MEDIEVAL CRAFTS FAIR #AMPELLO DI #LITUNNO 4ROUT FESTIVAL END OF *UNE 0IEDILUCO 3AGRA DEL 0ESCE END OF *UNE
*ULY
3IENA 0ALIO HORSE RACES *ULY PRECEDED BY TRIAL RACES ON *UNE AND *ULY 4ORRE DEL ,AGO &ESTIVAL 0UCCINIANO *ULY !UG
-ASSA -ARÖTTIMA 3ECOND LEG OF THE CROSSBOW COMPETITION ND 3UN -ONTEPULCIANO &OOD AND WINE FESTIVAL ND 3UN #ITTÌ DELLA 0IEVE &ESTA DELLA &ONTANA MID !UG n mOODING OF THE TOWN FOUNTAIN WITH WINE ,UCCA ,UMINARIA DI 3ANTA #ROCE !UG n TORCHLIT PROCESSIONS -ONTEPULCIANO )L "RUSCELLO !UG n n FOLKLORIC SONG FESTIVAL #ORTONA &ESTA DELLA "ISTECCA !UG n EXCESSIVE CONSUMPTION OF LOCAL BEEF &LORENCE &ESTA DEL 'RILLO !UG n FAIR IN THE #ASCINE PARK /RVIETO &ESTA DELLA 0ALOMBELLA !UG n HORSE RACE 0ORTO 3ANTO 3TEFANO 0ALIO -ARINARO !UG n PARADE AND ROWING RACE 3IENA 0ALIO HORSE RACES !UG PRECEDED BY TRIAL RACES ON !UG ,IVORNO 0ALIO -ARINARO !UG n BOAT RACES #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO #HAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL MID !UG TO EARLY 3EPT !REZZO )NTERNATIONAL CHORAL FESTIVAL LAST TWO WEEKS #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO &ESTIVAL DELLE .AZIONI DI -USICA DA #AMERA LAST WEEK n HIGHLY RESPECTED FESTIVAL OF CHAMBER MUSIC -ONTEPULCIANO "RAVIO DELLE "OTTI LAST 3UN n BARREL RACE THROUGH THE TOWN
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!UGUST
" ! 3)#3 /PENING HOURS HOLIDAYS AND FESTIVALS
0ERUGIA 5MBRIA *AZZ *ULY !UG n MAJOR JAZZ EVENT &IVIZZANO !RCHERY CONTEST ND 3UN 3IENA 3ETTIMANA -USICALE MID *ULY 'UBBIO 3PETTACOLI #LASSICI MID *ULY TO MID !UG n LONG ESTABLISHED SERIES OF CLASSICAL PLAYS STAGED IN THE TOWNS 2OMAN AMPHITHEATRE "ARGA NEAR ,UCCA /PERA AND THEATRE FESTIVAL SECOND HALF OF *ULY ,UCCA &ESTA DI 3AN 0AOLINO RD 3UN n TORCHLIT PARADE AND CROSSBOW CONTEST 0ISTOIA 'IOSTRO DELL/RSO *ULY n JOUSTING ,E 'HIAIE %LBA 7INE FESTIVAL LAST WEEK OF *ULY
3EPTEMBER 4ODI !RTS FESTIVAL TEN DAYS IN 3EPT !REZZO 'IOSTRO DEL 3ARACENO ST 3UN n JOUSTING BY KNIGHTS IN ARMOUR #ERRETO 'UIDI NEAR %MPOLI ST 3UN n 2ENAISSANCE PROCESSIONS &LORENCE &ESTA DELLE 2IlCOLONE 3EPT n TORCHLIT PROCESSION 0RATO &ESTA DEGLI /MAGGI 3EPT n COSTUMED PROCESSION 3ANSEPOLCRO 2ETURN CROSSBOW MATCHES AGAINST 'UBBIO ND 3UN 'REVE #HIANTI #LASSICO WINE FESTIVAL ND 3UN &OLIGNO 4ORNEO DELLA 1UINTANA ND WEEKEND n JOUSTING BY MEDIEVAL KNIGHTS ,UCCA &ESTA DELLA 3ANTA #ROCE 3EPT n PROCESSION OF SACRED IMAGE 0ERUGIA 3AGRA -USICALE 5MBRA LAST WEEK n CLASSICAL MUSIC FESTIVAL ESTABLISHED IN AND NOW ONE OF THE REGIONS MOST PRESTIGIOUS CULTURAL EVENTS
/CTOBER 4REVI 0ALIO DEI 4ERZIERI /CT n CART RACE !SSISI &ESTA DI 3AN &RANCESCO /CT n n MAJOR RELIGIOUS FESTIVAL 0IEDILUCO 7INE AND CHESTNUT FAIR MID /CT 5MBÏRTIDE 3AGRA DELLA #ASTAGNA n CHESTNUT FAIR MID /CT
.OVEMBER 0ERUGIA &ESTA DEI /GNISSANTI .OV n n !LL 3AINTS &AIR
$ECEMBER 3IENA &ESTA DI 3ANTA ,UCIA $EC n POTTERY FAIR 0RATO $ISPLAY OF (OLY 'IRDLE $EC
" ! 3)#3
\ /PENING HOURS HOLIDAYS AND FESTIVALS
SPECTACLE 4HERE ARE PLENTY OF OTHER OCCA SIONS FOR A FESTA n EITHER TO COMMEMORATE A LOCAL MIRACLE OR HISTORIC EVENT OR TO SHOW OFF THE LOCAL PRODUCTS OR ARTISTIC TALENT -ANY HAPPEN AT %ASTER IN -AY OR 3EPTEMBER OR AROUND &ERRAGOSTO !UG LOCAL DATES ARE DETAILED BELOW 4ICKETS FOR SOME CULTURAL FESTIVALS n SUCH AS THE -AGGIO -USICALE IN &LORENCE OR 3POLETOS &ESTIVAL DEI $UE -ONDI n CAN BE DIFlCULT TO OBTAIN )F YOU HAVE NO LUCK WITH A FESTIVALS BOX OFlCE IT MAY BE WORTH TRYING ,IAISONS !BROAD WWWLIAISONSABROADCOM AN AGENCY FOR TICKETS TO MAJOR )TALIAN OPERA AND MUSICAL EVENTS TIMED MUSEUM TICKETS 3IENAS 0ALIO 3ERIE ! FOOTBALL MATCHES AND MORE
2ELIGIOUS AND TRADITIONAL FESTIVALS -ANY OF THE LOCAL RELIGIOUS PROCESSIONS HAVE STRONG PAGAN ROOTS MARKING IMPORTANT DATES ON THE CALENDAR SUBSEQUENTLY ADOPTED AND SANCTIlED BY THE #HURCH 'OOD &RIDAY IS ALSO A POPULAR TIME FOR PROCESSIONS WITH IMAGES OF #HRIST ON THE CROSS PARADED THROUGH TOWNS ACCOMPANIED BY WHITE ROBED HOODED lGURES SINGING PENITENTIAL HYMNS 4HE SEPARATE MOTIVATIONS TO MAKE SOME MONEY HAVE A GOOD TIME AND PAY YOUR SPIRITUAL DUES ALL MERGE IN THE CELEBRA TIONS FOR A TOWNS SAINTS DAY WHERE ITS NOT UNUSUAL TO lND A COMMUNIST MAYOR AND LOCAL BISHOP OFlCIATING SIDE BY SIDE 5MBRIA HAS THE EDGE OVER 4USCANY IN RELIGIOUS FESTIVITIES !SSISI n WITH ITS &RAN CISCAN ASSOCIATIONS n HAS A DISPROPORTION ATE NUMBER OF EVENTS THE BIGGEST BEING THE &ESTA DI 3AN &RANCESCO /CT n A CELEBRATION OF THE SAINTS CANONIZATION THAT DRAWS RELIGIOUS LEADERS AND PILGRIMS FROM ALL OVER )TALY (OLY 7EEK IN !SSISI ATTRACTS ONE OF THE WORLDS BIGGEST CONCENTRATIONS OF NUNS MONKS AND LESSER RELIGIOUS FANAT ICS AND #ALENDIMAGGIO CELEBRATING &RAN CISS MORE WORLDLY YOUTH IS ALSO HUGE LAST ING FOR A WEEK FROM THE lRST 4UESDAY IN -AY )N #ASCIA ANOTHER OF THE REGIONS FOREMOST SAINTS 2ITA AS POPULAR IN SOME PARTS OF )TALY AS THE 6IRGIN ATTRACTS MANY THOUSANDS OF DEVOTEES n MAINLY WOMEN n TO THE TORCHLIGHT #ELEBRAZIONI 2ITIANE -AY n !LSO HEAV ILY PATRONIZED ARE #ORPUS $OMINI IN /RVIETO CELEBRATED WITH A COSTUMED PROCESSION AND
A PANOPLY OF ASSOCIATED EVENTS AND 'UB BIOS #ORSA DEI #ERI SEE P )N 4USCANY THE BEST TRADITIONAL FESTIVALS ARE OF A MORE SECULAR NATURE 4OP HONOURS GO TO THE 0ALIO HORSE RACES IN 3IENA WHICH SEE JOCKEYS CAREERING AROUND THE CENTRAL SQUARE IN A lERCELY CONTESTED SPECTACLE /THER TOWNS PUT ON MEDIEVAL ORIGIN CONTESTS TOO THOUGH THEY ARE SOMEWHAT PHONEY HAVING BEEN REVIVED RECENTLY FOR COMMERCIAL ENDS !MONG THE MOST ENJOYABLE ARE THE 'IOCO DI #ALCIO 3TORICO A ROUGH AND TUMBLE FOOTBALL GAME PLAYED BETWEEN THE FOUR QUARTERS OF &LORENCE IN *UNE AND THE CROSSBOW COM PETITIONS BETWEEN TEAMS FROM 'UBBIO AND 3ANSEPOLCRO HELD DURING -AY AND 3EPTEM BER 4HERES ALSO BEEN A REVIVAL OF CARNI VAL CARNEVALE THE LAST mING BEFORE ,ENT ALTHOUGH THE ANARCHIC FUN THAT WAS ENJOYED IN THE PAST HAS GENERALLY BEEN REPLACED BY ELEGANT SELF CONSCIOUS AFFAIRS WITH INGEN IOUS COSTUMES AND HANDMADE MASKS n AT THEIR MOST EXTRAVAGANT AT THE COASTAL RESORT OF 6IAREGGIO #ARNIVAL USUALLY LASTS FOR THE lVE DAYS BEFORE !SH 7EDNESDAY BECAUSE ITS CONNECTED WITH %ASTER THE DATES CHANGE FROM YEAR TO YEAR
&OOD WINE AND ARTS FESTIVALS &OOD AND WINE INSPIRED FESTIVALS ARE MORE LOW KEY AFFAIRS THAN THE RELIGIOUS AND TRADI TIONAL EVENTS BUT NO LESS ENJOYABLE FOR THAT 4HEY GENERALLY CELEBRATE THE EDIBLE SPECIALITY OF THE REGION TO THE ACCOMPANIMENT OF DANC ING MUSIC FROM A LOCAL BRASS BAND AND NOISY lREWORKS AT THE END OF THE EVENING !T %ASTER AND THROUGH THE SUMMER AND AUTUMN THERE ARE LITERALLY HUNDREDS OF SUCH EVENTS MOST OF THEM CATERING TO LOCALS RATHER THAN TOURISTS FOR DETAILS ASK AT TOURIST OFlCES OR CHECK THE LOCAL NEWSPAPERS WHERE YOULL lND THEM LISTED AS SAGRE 4HE ANCIENT INTER TOWN RIVALRIES ACROSS 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA n ENCAPSULATED NEATLY BY THE TERM CAMPANILISMO IMPLYING THAT THE ONLY THINGS THAT MATTER ARE THOSE THAT TAKE PLACE WITHIN THE SOUND OF YOUR VILLAGES CHURCH BELLS n lND A HIGHLY POSITIVE EXPRES SION IN THE WILLINGNESS OF LOCAL COUNCILS TO PUT MONEY INTO PROMOTING THEIR OWN ARTS FESTIVALS &OR THE SIZE OF THE TOWNS INVOLVED THE EVENTS ARE OFTEN ALMOST LUDICROUSLY RICH
MER OPEN AIR PERFORMANCES ARE OFTEN STAGED IN RESTORED ANCIENT AMPHITHEATRES CHURCHES OR TOWN SQUARES
\
" ! 3)#3 /UTDOOR ACTIVITIES
CELEBRATING THE WORK OF A NATIVE COMPOSER OR ARTIST BY INVITING MAJOR INTERNATIONAL NAMES TO PERFORM OR DIRECT -ANY FESTIVALS ARE GIVEN AN ADDED ENJOYMENT BY THEIR LOCATION IN SUM
/UTDOOR ACTIVITIES 4HE HILLS MOUNTAINS LAKES AND RIVERS OF 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA OFFER A WIDE RANGE OF OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES 3OME SUCH AS HIKING ARE POTENTIALLY OUTSTANDING DESPITE A RELATIVE LACK OF MARKED PATHS AND GOOD MAPS IN MANY AREAS n THOUGH SOME PARTS OF 5MBRIA SOUTHERN 4USCANY AND THE !LPI !PUANE ARE WELL COVERED /THER ACTIVI TIES NOTABLY SKIING FAIL TO PROVIDE THE RANGE OF OPPORTUNITIES FOUND IN THE !LPINE AND !BRUZZESE RESORTS TO THE NORTH AND THE SOUTH #YCLING AND RIDING ARE ALSO lRST RATE AND THERE ARE GOOD n BUT LIMITED n OPPORTUNITIES FOR CLIMBING CAVING lSHING CANOEING AND DIVING
7ALKING 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA OFFER A PLETHORA OF WALKING OPPORTUNITIES 4HE GENTLE PASTORAL LANDSCAPES OF BOTH REGIONS ARE PERFECT FOR EASYGOING STROLLS WHILE THE HIGH MOUNTAIN TERRAINS OF AREAS SUCH AS THE !LPI !PUANE IN 4USCANY AND -ONTE #UCCO AND THE -ONTI 3IBILLINI IN 5MBRIA PROVIDE THE CHANCE FOR LONGER AND MORE CHALLENGING HIKES 3PRING IS BY FAR THE BEST TIME TO VISIT WITH GLORIOUS WILDmOWERS AND VERDANT COUNTRYSIDE FROM MID !PRIL IN THE LOWLANDS AND LATE -AY TO EARLY *UNE IN THE MOUNTAINS 4EMPERATURES ARE EQUALLY KIND IN 3EPTEMBER n MIDSUM MER IS TOO HOT FOR COMFORTABLE HIKING n AND THE WEATHER A TOUCH MORE RELIABLE WITH LESS CHANCE OF RAIN THAN IN SPRING BUT THE LAND SCAPES CAN BE SUN SCORCHED (IKING IN THIS PART OF )TALY UNLIKE THE $OLO MITES OR WESTERN !LPS IS STILL IN ITS INFANCY 9OULL lND VERY FEW MARKED TRAILS OR RECOG NIZED FOOTPATHS AND EVEN FEWER MAPS SEE P OF SUFlCIENT DETAIL TO LET YOU NAVIGATE WITH CONlDENCE /NE OPTION IS TO TRUST THE PRACTICALITIES TO ONE OF THE GROWING NUMBER OF 5+ AND 53 BASED WALKING COMPANIES OFFERING GUIDED OR SELF GUIDED WALKS n WITH LUGGAGE TRANSPORTED BETWEEN HOTELS n IN BOTH REGIONS SEE P
#ERTAIN AREAS DO HAVE MARKED TRAILS GEN ERALLY THE WORK OF LOCAL ENTHUSIASTS OR THE #LUB !LPINO )TALIANO #!) -OST TOWNS HAVE A #!) OFlCE BUT THESE ARE TYPICALLY OPEN ONLY FOR A FEW HOURS ONE DAY A WEEK YOURE BET TER OFF VISITING A LOCAL TOURIST OFlCE FOR DETAILS OF LOCAL MARKED TRAILS 3UCH PATHS EXIST IN THE !LPI !PUANE /RECCHIELLA -ONTE #UCCO AND PARTS OF THE -ONTI 3IBILLINI AS WELL AS IN OTHER AREAS WITH AN ACTIVE LOCAL #!) BRANCH SUCH AS THE 6AL D/RCIA SOUTH OF -ONTALCINO PARTS OF %LBA THE #ASENTINO AREAS AROUND 3POLETO AND ON -ONTE 3UBASIO ABOVE !SSISI 3HORTER TRAILS CAN BE FOUND IN PROTECTED PARKS SUCH AS THE -ONTI DELL5CCELLINA IN THE -AREMMA !LL #!) PATHS ARE INDICATED BY RED AND WHITE MARKERS AND MAY BE NUMBERED BUT n CRU CIALLY n ARE OFTEN NOT OF SUFlCIENT QUALITY TO LET YOU FOLLOW A ROUTE CONlDENTLY OR SAFELY WITH OUT THE BACKUP OF A MAP 4HIS IS ESPECIALLY TRUE IN THE MOUNTAINS AND ON THE LONG DIS TANCE ROUTES WHERE MARKING IS NOT AS GOOD OR AS COHERENT AS IN &RANCE 3WITZERLAND OR THE 5+ #!) HAS ALSO PLAYED A PART IN ESTABLISHING SEVERAL LONG DISTANCE PATHS 4HESE ARE h'ARFAGNANA 4REKKINGv A STAGE WALK IN THE !LPI !PUANI AND /RECCHIELLA FROM #AS TELNUOVO DEL 'ARFAGNANA h!PUANE 4REK KINGv n DAYS FROM #ARRARA AND h0IGLIONE
" ! 3)#3
\ /UTDOOR ACTIVITIES
4REKKINGv DAYS FROM -ETATO IN THE SOUTH ERN !LPI !PUANE !NOTHER MAJOR ROUTE THE DAY 'RANDE %SCURSIONE !PPENNICA RUNS ALONG THE CREST OF THE !PENNINES PART OF A MUCH LONGER MULTI REGIONAL ROUTE DESIGNED TO FOLLOW THE !PENNINES CREST FROM NORTH TO SOUTH !CCESS IS RARELY A PROBLEM AS LONG AS THERE IS A PATH MARKED OR OTHERWISE AND YOU CAUSE NO DAMAGE YOU CAN GENERALLY ROAM AT WILL ,OCALS ARE ON THE WHOLE HAPPY FOR YOU TO TRAMP THE PATHS AND CENTURIES OLD MULETRACKS THAT CRISS CROSS THEIR LAND BUT HAVE VERY LITTLE UNDERSTANDING OF WHY YOU WOULD WANT TO WALK ANYWHERE WHEN YOU COULD DRIVE (IKERS ARE LIKELY TO BE MET BY LANDOWNERS WITH AMUSED CURIOSITY RATHER THAN HOSTILITY
/THER ACTIVITIES
-ANY OF THE COMPANIES THAT OFFER WALKING TOURS ALSO OFFER CYCLING TOURS THOUGH THIS IS AN ACTIVITY WHERE YOU CAN EASILY STRIKE OUT ALONE 5NLIKE WALKING ITS ALSO AN ACTIVITY THAT IS EXTREMELY POPULAR AMONG )TALIANS AND ON 3UNDAY MORNINGS IN PARTICULAR YOULL lND A LOT OF FELLOW ENTHUSIASTS ON THE ROAD )TS AS WELL TO REMEMBER THAT MUCH OF 4US CANY AND 5MBRIA IS HILLY AND THAT SUMMER TEMPERATURES ESPECIALLY IN THE AFTERNOON ARE OFF PUTTINGLY HIGH !LSO BEAR IN MIND THAT CELEBRATED AREAS SUCH AS #HIANTI ARE LARGELY WOODED AND SO NOT AS SCENICALLY TEMPT ING AS THE MORE OPEN REACHES OF SOUTHERN 4USCANY OR THE BACKROADS OF 5MBRIA -ANY MINOR COUNTRY ROADS ARE GRAVEL SURFACED STRADE BIANCHE hWHITE ROADSv AND SO NOT IDEAL FOR CYCLING LONG DISTANCES 2IDING IS ANOTHER ACTIVITY TO WHICH BOTH 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA ARE WELL SUITED -ANY FOREIGN COMPANIES OFFER RIDING HOLIDAYS USU ALLY IN #HIANTI OR THE -AREMMA SEE P BUT VIRTUALLY EVERY RURAL TOWN AND VILLAGE HAS AT LEAST ONE STABLE UN MANEGGIO OR CLUB IPPICO WHERE YOU CAN TAKE A HORSE OUT BY THE HOUR THE DAY OR LONGER 4OURIST OFlCES CARRY FULL LISTS OF THESE AND OF AGRITURISMO ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS SEE P MANY OF WHICH ALSO OFFER RIDING #LIMBING IS POSSIBLE IN THE !LPI !PUANE WHERE THE LIMESTONE AND MARBLE OFFER SOME OF THE BEST ROCK ON THE )TALIAN PENINSULA 4HE lNEST CLIMBS ARE ON THE 0ROCINTO 0IZZO
D5CCELLO -ONTE .ONA AND 0ANIA DELLA #ROCE AND IN WINTER YOU CAN MAKE ICE CLIMBS ON 0ANIA DELLA #ROCE AND THE CRESTS OF 0ISANINO #!) PUBLISH BOOKS ON CLIMBS IN THE REGION AVAILABLE FROM LARGER BOOKSHOPS IN ,UCCA 0ISA OR &LORENCE AND YOU CAN PICK UP LOCAL INFORMATION FROM #!) OFlCES OR THE PARK OFlCE IN #ASTELNUOVO DI 'ARFAGNANA SEE P )N 5MBRIA THERE ARE CLIMBS ON ,E ,ECCE AND &OSSA 3ECCA AROUND -ONTE #UCCO WHILE THE CRAGS AROUND &ERENTILLO SEE P HAVE BECOME ONE OF )TALYS LEAD ING FREE CLIMBING CENTRES 4HE KARST FORMATIONS OF MUCH OF THE REGION OFFERS )TALYS BEST CAVING ESPECIALLY AROUND -ONTE #UCCO SEE P WHICH HAS SOME OF THE WORLDS DEEPEST CAVE SYSTEMS AND AT LEAST TWENTY POTS OPEN TO SPELEOLOGISTS SOME FOR EXPERTS ONLY 4HERE ARE ALMOST EQUALLY GOOD OPPORTUNITIES IN THE !LPI !PUANE INCLUDING THE 'ROTTA DEL 6ENTO SEE P WHICH IS ALSO ACCESSIBLE TO NON SPE CIALISTS #!) OFlCES ARE THE BEST SOURCES OF INFORMATION )TALYS BEST HANG AND PARA GLIDING IS ALSO FOUND ON AND AROUND -ONTE #UCCO NOTABLY THE 6AL DI 2ANCO SEE P AND IN THE 3IBIL LINI ABOVE THE 0IANO 'RANDE WHERE THE THER MALS AND STEEP AND TREELESS SLOPES PROVIDE IDEAL CONDITIONS FOR BOTH ACTIVITIES
&ISHING AND WATERSPORTS 9OU CAN CHARTER BOATS WITH GUIDES FOR SALT WATER lSHING FROM ANY NUMBER OF PORTS ON THE 4USCAN COAST 4HE REGIONS BEST FRESHWA TER lSHING FOR TROUT IS ON THE .ERA IN THE 6AL NERINA SEE P THE RIVER IS WELL STOCKED AND HEAVILY lSHED BUT COMES WITH A RAFT OF REGULATIONS AND LICENCE REQUIREMENTS DETAILS OF WHICH CAN BE HAD FROM THE TOURIST OFlCE IN 4ERNI OR FROM THE &EDERAZIONE )TALIANA 0ESCA 3PORTIVA &)03 WHICH HAS BRANCHES IN MANY MAJOR TOWNS &ISHING IS ALSO POSSIBLE ON LAKES 4RASIMENO AND 0IEDILUCO #ANOEING IS ALSO PRACTISED ON THE .ERA THOUGH THERE ARE NO ORGANIZED RENTAL POSSI BILITIES 4HIS IS NOT THE CASE WITH SAILING AND WINDSURlNG UP AND DOWN THE 4USCAN COAST WHERE ALL THE LARGER RESORTS HAVE WATERSPORT RENTAL OUTLETS FOR SAILBOARDS CATAMARANS :ODIACS AND THE LIKE 9OU CAN ALSO RENT SCUBA DIVING AND SNORKELLING EQUIPMENT OR TAKE GUIDED DAY OR NIGHT DIVES ESPECIALLY
AROUND THE KEY DIVING DESTINATIONS OF -ONTE !RGENTARIO %LBA AND SMALLER ISLANDS SUCH AS 'IANNUTRI
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$OWNHILL SKIERS ARE UNLIKELY TO MAKE SPECIAL TRIPS TO THE REGIONS LIMITED NUMBER OF MOD EST SKIING CENTRES 3NOW IS NEVER AS GOOD OR AS RELIABLE THIS FAR SOUTH AS IT IS IN THE !LPS OR IN THE HIGHER BLEAKER HEARTLANDS OF THE !BRUZZO 4HERES A HANDFUL OF RAGGED RUNS IN THE !LPI !PUANE AND /RECCHIELLA AND A SCAT
" ! 3)#3 4ROUBLE AND THE POLICE
7INTER SPORTS
TERING OF LIFTS ABOVE !BETONE ON THE 4USCAN BORDER WITH %MILIA 2OMAGNA 5MBRIA HAS A TINY ONE HOTEL RESORT AT &ORCA #ANAPINE IN THE 3IBILLINI 7HERE THE REGIONS SCORE MORE HIGHLY IS IN CROSS COUNTRY SKIING 4HE WOODLAND TRAILS OF THE /RECCHIELLA THE 0IANO 'RANDE BELOW &ORCA #ANAPINE AND THE MAGNIlCENT EMPTY SCENERY OF -ONTE #UCCO ARE EXCELLENT AND VIR TUALLY UNTAPPED AREAS FOR THE MORE ADVENTUR OUS CROSS COUNTRY SKIER 2ECOMMENDED TRAILS ARE INDICATED ON THE RELEVANT +OMPASS MAPS
4ROUBLE AND THE POLICE )N 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA THE ONLY TROUBLE YOURE LIKELY TO COME ACROSS ARE GANGS OF SCIPPATORI hSNATCHERSv OFTEN KIDS WHO OPERATE IN CROWDED STREETS OR MARKETS TRAIN STATIONS AND PACKED TOURIST SIGHTS !S WELL AS HANDBAGS SCIPPATORI GRAB WAL LETS TEAR OFF ANY VISIBLE JEWELLERY AND IF THEYRE REALLY ADROIT UNSTRAP WATCHES 9OU CAN MINIMIZE THE RISK OF THIS HAPPEN ING BY BEING DISCREET WEAR MONEY IN A BELT OR POUCH DONT PUT ANYTHING DOWN ON CAFÏ OR RESTAURANT TABLES DONT mASH ANYTHING OF VALUE KEEP A lRM HAND ON YOUR CAMERA AND CARRY SHOULDER BAGS SLUNG ACROSS YOUR BODY AS )TALIAN WOMEN DO )TS A GOOD IDEA TOO TO ENTRUST MONEY AND CREDIT CARDS TO HOTEL MANAGERS .EVER LEAVE ANYTHING VALUABLE IN YOUR CAR AND PARK IN CAR PARKS OR WELL LIT WELL USED STREETS )TALYS REPUTATION FOR SEXUAL HARASSMENT OF WOMEN IS BASED LARGELY ON EXPERIENCES IN THE SOUTH OF THE COUNTRY (OWEVER EVEN IN THE hCIVILIZED NORTHv TRAVELLING ON YOUR OWN OR WITH ANOTHER WOMAN YOU CAN EXPECT TO BE TOOTED AND HISSED AT FROM TIME TO TIME AND MAY ATTRACT OCCASIONAL UNWELCOME ATTENTION IN BARS RESTAURANTS OR ON THE BEACH 4HIS PESTERING IS NOT USUALLY MADE WITH ANY KIND OF VIOLENT INTENT BUT ITS STILL ANNOYING AND FRUSTRATING 4HERE ARE A FEW THINGS YOU CAN DO TO WARD IT OFF )NDIFFERENCE IS OFTEN THE MOST EFFECTIVE POLICY AS IS LOOK ING AS CONlDENT AS POSSIBLE WALKING WITH A
PURPOSEFUL STRIDE AND MAINTAINING A DIRECTED GAZE 3ITTING AROUND IN PARKS n ESPECIALLY &LORENCES #ASCINE n ITS BEST TO PICK A SPOT CLOSE TO OTHER PEOPLE
4HE POLICE )N )TALY THERE ARE SEVERAL DIFFERENT BRANCHES OF THE POLICE OSTENSIBLY TO PREVENT ANY SIN GLE BRANCH SEIZING POWER 9OURE NOT LIKELY TO HAVE MUCH CONTACT WITH THE 'UARDIA DI &INANZA WHO INVESTIGATE SMUGGLING TAX EVA SION AND OTHER lNANCE RELATED FELONIES $RIV ERS MAY WELL COME UP AGAINST THE 0OLIZIA 5RBANA OR TOWN POLICE WHO ARE MAINLY CONCERNED WITH TRAFlC AND PARKING OFFENCES
%MERGENCY PHONE NUMBERS 0OLICE #ARABINIERI !NY EMERGENCY SERVICE 3OCCORSO 0UBBLICO DI %MERGENZA &IRE SERVICE 6IGILI DEL &UOCO 2OADSIDE ASSISTANCE 3OCCORSO 3TRADALE
" ! 3)#3
\ 4RAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES
AND ALSO THE 0OLIZIA 3TRADALE WHO PATROL MOTORWAYS )F YOURE UNLUCKY YOU MAY HAVE DEALINGS WITH THE #ARABINIERI DRESSED IN MILITARY STYLE UNIFORMS AND WHITE SHOULDER BELTS THEYRE PART OF THE ARMY WHO DEAL WITH GENERAL CRIME PUBLIC ORDER AND DRUGS CONTROL 4HESE ARE THE ONES )TALIANS ARE MOST RUDE ABOUT BUT A LOT OF THIS STEMS FROM THE USUAL NORTHn SOUTH DIVIDE %IGHTY PERCENT OF THE #ARAB INIERI ARE FROM SOUTHERN )TALY WHERE JOINING THE POLICE IS SEEN AS ONE WAY TO ESCAPE THE POVERTY TRAP 4HE 0OLIZIA 3TATALE THE OTHER GENERAL CRIME lGHTING BRANCH ENJOY A lERCE RIVALRY WITH THE #ARABINIERI AND ARE THE ONES TO WHOM THEFTS SHOULD BE REPORTED AT THEIR BASE THE 1UESTURA POLICE STATION n YOULL lND 1UESTURA ADDRESSES THROUGHOUT THE GUIDE AND IN THE LOCAL PHONEBOOK 4HEYLL
ISSUE YOU WITH A DENUNCIA AN IMPRESSIVELY STAMPED REPORT FORM WHICH YOULL NEED FOR ANY INSURANCE CLAIMS AFTER YOU GET HOME 4HE 1UESTURA IS ALSO WHERE YOU SHOULD TO GO TO OBTAIN A A VISA EXTENSION OR A PERMESSO DI SOGGIORNO )N ANY BRUSH WITH THE AUTHORITIES YOUR EXPERIENCE WILL DEPEND ON THE INDIVIDU ALS YOURE DEALING WITH )TS NOT UNHEARD OF n AND IS PERFECTLY LEGAL n TO BE STOPPED AND SEARCHED SIMPLY FOR BEING YOUNG AND CARRYING A RUCKSACK 4HESE ARE USUALLY JUST ROUTINE SPOT CHECKS BUT DONT EXPECT EASY TREATMENT IF YOURE PICKED UP FOR ANY OFFENCE ESPECIALLY IF ITS DRUGS RELATED !NY DISTINCTION BETWEEN hHARDv AND hSOFTv DRUGS IS BLURRED EVERYTHING IS ILLEGAL ABOVE THE POSSESSION OF A SMALL AMOUNT OF MARIJUANA hFOR PERSONAL USEv THOUGH THERES NO PROPER DElNITION OF WHAT THIS MEANS
4RAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES 7ITH THEIR STEEP HILLS NARROW COBBLED STREETS AND MEDIEVAL BUILDINGS 4USCAN AND 5MBRIAN HILL TOWNS ARE BY NO MEANS ACCOMMODATING TO TRAVELLERS WITH DIS ABILITIES
!S PART OF THE %UROPEAN 4URISMO PER 4UTTI 4OURISM FOR !LL PROJECT n ADMINISTERED IN )TALY BY THE NATIONAL DISABLED SUPPORT ORGANIZATION #/). n MUSEUM TRANSPORT AND ACCOMMO DATION FACILITIES ARE SLOWLY IMPROVING IN &LOR ENCE AND SOME LARGER TOWNS BUT THERES STILL A CONSIDERABLE WAY TO GO ELSEWHERE 7HILE STAIRS AND STEPS PRESENT THE MOST OBVIOUS DIFlCULTIES n RESTAURANTS TEND TO HAVE THEIR BATHROOMS DOWNSTAIRS FOR INSTANCE n OTHER PROBLEMS ARISE FROM OBLIVIOUS TRAFlC CARS PARKED ON PAVEMENTS AND THE SHEER DIS TANCES OF CAR PARKS FROM OLD TOWN CENTRES 0UBLIC TRANSPORT IS BECOMING MORE ATTUNED THOUGH YOU STILL NEED TO GIVE HOURS NOTICE FOR PORTER SERVICE OR SPECIAL HELP AT ANY TRAIN STATION !WAY FROM &LORENCE TARGETED TOUR IST INFORMATION IS LIMITED BUT IF INDEPENDENT
TRAVEL IN THE REGION SEEMS TOO DAUNTING THEN YOU COULD CONSIDER JOINING AN ORGANIZED CUS TOM DESIGNED TOUR SEE BELOW
#ONTACTS FOR TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES 5+ AND )RELAND (OLIDAY #ARE -INICOM WWWHOLIDAYCAREORGUK 0ROVIDES FREE LISTS OF ACCESSIBLE ACCOMMODATION ABROAD )RISH 7HEELCHAIR !SSOCIATION WWWIWAIE 5SEFUL INFORMATION ABOUT TRAVELLING ABROAD WITH A WHEELCHAIR 4RIPSCOPE 4HE 6ASSALL #ENTRE 'ILL !VE "RISTOL "3 11 WWWTRIPSCOPE ORGUK 4HIS REGISTERED CHARITY PROVIDES A NATIONAL TELEPHONE INFORMATION SERVICE OFFERING FREE ADVICE ON
5+ AND INTERNATIONAL TRANSPORT FOR THOSE WITH A MOBILITY PROBLEM
WHEELSUPCOM $ISCOUNTED AIRFARES AND TOURS FOR DISABLED TRAVELLERS PLUS INFORMATION ON lNANCIAL HELP FOR HOLIDAYS
!USTRALIA AND .EW :EALAND !#2/$ !USTRALIAN #OUNCIL FOR 2EHABILITATION OF THE $ISABLED 0ROVIDES LISTS OF TRAVEL AGENCIES AND TOUR OPERATORS FOR PEOPLE WITH DISABILITIES $ISABLED 0ERSONS !SSEMBLY 2ESOURCE CENTRE WITH LISTS OF TRAVEL AGENCIES AND TOUR OPERATORS
)TALY !CCESSIBLE )TALY WWW ACCESSIBLEITALYCOM 'ROUP OR INDIVIDUAL TOURS TO &LORENCE AND #HIANTI #/). WWWCOINSOCIALEIT .ATIONAL DISABLED SUPPORT ORGANIZATION
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!CCESS !BLE WWWACCESS ABLECOM /NLINE RESOURCE FOR TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES $IRECTIONS 5NLIMITED OR 4OUR OPERATOR SPECIALIZING IN CUSTOM TOURS FOR PEOPLE WITH DISABILITIES -OBILITY )NTERNATIONAL 53! 6OICE AND 4$$ WWWMIUSAORG )NFORMATION AND REFERRAL SERVICES ACCESS GUIDES TOURS AND EXCHANGE PROGRAMMES !NNUAL MEMBERSHIP INCLUDES QUARTERLY NEWSLETTER 3OCIETY FOR THE !DVANCEMENT OF 4RAVELERS WITH (ANDICAPS 3!4( WWWSATHORG .ON PROlT EDUCATIONAL ORGANIZATION ACTIVELY REPRESENTING TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES 7HEELS 5P WWW
" ! 3)#3 'AY AND LESBIAN TRAVELLERS
.ORTH !MERICA
'AY AND LESBIAN TRAVELLERS )N LARGER TOWNS AND CITIES ACROSS 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA ATTITUDES TOWARDS HOMO SEXUALITY ARE GENERALLY TOLERANT 4HE AGE OF CONSENT IS &LORENCE HAS A THRIVING GAY SCENE MATCHED ONLY BY THE 6ERSILIA COAST IN THE SUMMER 4ORRE DEL ,AGO AND 6IAREGGIO ARE POPULAR RESORTS WITH PLENTY OF GAY BARS CLUBS AND BEACHES 4HE SCENE IN 5MBRIA IS LESS OVERT THAN IN 4USCANY BUT THERE ARE A COUPLE OF GAY CLUBS IN 0ERUGIA AND 4ERNI 4HE NATIONAL GAY ORGANIZATION !2#) 'AY WWWARCIGAYIT HAS BRANCHES IN MOST BIG TOWNS "ABILONIA WWWBABILONIAWEBIT IS THE NATIONAL GAY MAGAZINE PUBLISHED MONTHLY + AND WWWGAYIT IN ASSOCIATION WITH WWW GAYCOM HAS A WEALTH OF INFORMATION FOR GAYS AND LESBIANS IN )TALY
#ONTACTS FOR GAY AND LESBIAN TRAVELLERS 5+ 'AY 4RAVEL WWWGAYTRAVELCOUK /NLINE TRAVEL AGENT OFFERING GOOD DEALS ON ALL TYPES OF HOLIDAY !LSO
LISTS GAY AND LESBIAN FRIENDLY HOTELS AROUND THE WORLD -ADISON 4RAVEL WWW MADISONTRAVELCOUK %STABLISHED TRAVEL AGENTS SPECIALIZING IN PACKAGES TO GAY AND LESBIAN FRIENDLY MAINSTREAM DESTINATIONS AND ALSO TO GAYLESBIAN DESTINATIONS
53 AND #ANADA $AMRON #OMPANY OR WWWDAMRONCOM 0UBLISHER OF THE -ENS 4RAVEL 'UIDE A POCKET SIZED YEARBOOK FULL OF LISTINGS OF HOTELS BARS CLUBS AND RESOURCES FOR GAY MEN THE 7OMENS 4RAVELER WHICH PROVIDES SIMILAR LISTINGS FOR LESBIANS AND $AMRON !CCOMMODATIONS WHICH PROVIDES DETAILED LISTINGS OF OVER ACCOMMODATIONS FOR GAYS AND LESBIANS WORLDWIDE
!USTRALIA AND .EW :EALAND 0ARKSIDE 4RAVEL PARKSIDE HERVEYWORLDCOMAU 'AY TRAVEL AGENT ASSOCIATED WITH LOCAL BRANCH OF (ERVEY 7ORLD 4RAVEL ALL ASPECTS OF GAY AND LESBIAN TRAVEL WORLDWIDE
3ILKES 4RAVEL OR WWWSILKESCOMAU ,ONG ESTABLISHED GAY AND
LESBIAN SPECIALIST WITH THE EMPHASIS ON WOMENS TRAVEL
" ! 3)#3
\ $IRECTORY
$IRECTORY !DDRESSES 4HESE ARE USUALLY WRITTEN AS THE STREET NAME FOLLOWED BY THE NUMBER 6IA 2OMA )NTERNO REFERS TO THE mAT NUMBER EG INTERNO OFTEN ABBREVIATED AS INT #ONFUSINGLY SOME TOWNS NOTABLY &LORENCE HAVE TWO PARALLEL SYSTEMS FOR NUMBERING PROPERTIES ONE FOR SHOPS AND RESTAURANTS AND ANOTHER FOR BUSINESSES AND PRIVATE RESIDENCES SOMETIMES A SHOP OR RESTAURANT IS SUFlXED BY THE LETTER hRv MEANING THAT 6IA 'ARIBALDI R MIGHT BE IN AN ENTIRELY DIFFERENT PLACE FROM 6IA 'ARIBALDI !DDRESSES WITH hSNv SENZA NUMERO HAVE NO BUILDING NUMBER "ARGAINING .OT REALLY DONE IN SHOPS AND RESTAURANTS THOUGH YOULL lND YOU CAN GET A hSPECIAL PRICEv FOR SOME PRIVATE ROOMS AND CHEAP HOTELS IF YOURE STAYING A FEW DAYS 4HINGS LIKE BOAT OR BIKE RENTAL AND GUIDED TOURS ESPECIALLY OUT OF SEASON ARE NEGOTIABLE )N MARKETS YOU CAN IN THEORY HAGGLE FOR EVERYTHING EXCEPT FOOD "EACHES 9OULL HAVE TO PAY FOR ACCESS TO SOME OF THE BETTER BEACHES REFERRED TO AS LIDO PLUS AN EXTRA COUPLE OF EUROS TO RENT A SUNBED AND SHADE AND TO USE THE SHOWERS ALL DAY $URING WINTER MOST BEACHES LOOK LIKE RUBBISH DUMPS NOBODY BOTHERS TO CLEAN THEM UNTIL THE SEASON STARTS AT %ASTER #HILDREN +IDS ARE ADORED IN )TALY AND WILL BE MADE A FUSS OF IN THE STREET AND WELCOMED AND CATERED FOR IN BARS AND RESTAURANTS 4WO RECENT LAWS HAVE IMPROVED THE SITUATION FOR PARENTS EVEN FURTHER THE BAN ON SMOKING IN RESTAURANTS AND BARS HAS TRANSFORMED THE AIR AND MADE THEM FAR MORE FAMILY FRIENDLY WHILE THE LAW ON DISABLED ACCESS MAKES IT FAR EASIER TO TAKE A PUSHCHAIR PASSEGGINO INTO MUSEUMS AND CHURCHES (OTELS NORMALLY CHARGE AROUND THIRTY PERCENT EXTRA TO PUT A BED OR COT IN YOUR ROOM 4HE ONLY HAZARDS IN SUMMER ARE THE HEAT AND SUN SUNBLOCK CAN BE BOUGHT IN ANY PHARMACY AND BONNETS OR STRAW HATS IN MOST MARKETS 4AKE ADVANTAGE OF THE LESS INTENSE PERIODS n MORNINGS AND EVENINGS n FOR TRAVELLING AND USE THE QUIET OF SIESTA TIME TO RECOVER mAGGING ENERGY 4HE RHYTHMS OF THE SOUTHERN CLIMATE SOON
MODIFY ESTABLISHED PATTERNS AND YOULL lND IT QUITE NATURAL CARRYING ON LATER INTO THE NIGHT PAST NORMAL BEDTIMES )N SUMMER ITS NOT UNUSUAL TO SEE )TALIAN CHILDREN OUT AT MIDNIGHT AND NOT LOOKING MUCH THE WORSE FOR IT 9OU CAN BUY BABY EQUIPMENT n NAPPIES CREAMS AND FOODS n IN CHEMISTS 3EE THE WEBSITE WWW TRAVELFORKIDSCOM FOR MORE INFORMATION ON CHILD FRIENDLY SIGHTS AND ACTIVITIES IN &LORENCE AND 3IENA %LECTRICITY 4HE SUPPLY IS 6 THOUGH ANYTHING REQUIRING 6 WILL WORK -OST PLUGS ARE TWO ROUND PINS 5+ EQUIPMENT WILL NEED AN ADAPTOR 53 EQUIPMENT A TO TRANSFORMER AS WELL &OOTBALL 4USCANYS PREMIER SOCCER TEAM IS &LORENCES &IORENTINA BUT AT THE TIME OF GOING TO PRESS ,IVORNO WERE ALSO PERFORMING WELL IN THE TOP mIGHT 3ERIE ! ALONG WITH 3IENA AND %MPOLI 5MBRIA HAS NO TEAMS IN 3ERIE ! ,ANGUAGE COURSES !N EXCELLENT WAY OF LEARNING )TALIAN IS TO TAKE A PACKAGE COMBINING ACCOMMODATION WITH TUITION 4HERE ARE A GREAT MANY PLACES WHERE YOU CAN DO THIS USUALLY OFFERING COURSES OF VARYING LEVELS OF INTENSITY FOR BETWEEN A FORTNIGHT AND THREE MONTHS 2ECKON ON PAYING AROUND a FOR A TWO WEEK COURSE INCLUDING ACCOMMODATION WHICH WILL NORMALLY BE WITH AN )TALIAN FAMILY &OR DETAILS CONTACT THE LONG ESTABLISHED "RITISH )NSTITUTE OF &LORENCE WWW eBRITISHINSTITUTEIT OR THE 5NIVERSITÌ )TALIANA PER 3TRANIERI IN 3IENA WWWUNISTRASI IT %URO !CADEMY WWWEUROACADEMYCOUK AND #%3! ,ANGUAGES !BROAD WWWCESALANGUAGES COM IN THE 5+ AND ,ANGUAGES !BROAD WWW LANGUAGESABROADCOM IN THE 53 RUN )TALIAN COURSES IN &LORENCE ,AUNDRIES #OIN OPERATED LAUNDRETTES ARE AVAILABLE ONLY IN LARGER TOWNS 0UBLIC TOILETS !LMOST UNHEARD OF OUTSIDE TRAIN AND BUS STATIONS USUALLY YOUR ONLY OPTION IS TO DIVE INTO A BAR )N STATIONS AND SOME SMARTER ESTABLISHMENTS THERE MIGHT BE AN ATTENDANT WHO GUARDS THE FACILITIES DISPENSES PAPER CARTA n AND EXPECTS A
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DETAIL 4HIS RECEIPT MUST BE PRESENTED TO CUSTOMS ON YOUR RETURN HOME AND THEN SENT BACK TO THE SHOP WITHIN NINETY DAYS OF THE DATE OF THE RECEIPT THE SHOP WILL THEN REFUND THE )6! COMPONENT OF THE PRICE A SAVING OF EIGHTEEN PERCENT 4IME )TALY IS ON #ENTRAL %UROPEAN 4IME #%4 HR AHEAD OF ,ONDON HR AHEAD OF .EW 9ORK AND HR BEHIND 3YDNEY
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TIP OF A FEW CENTS 3TANDARDS SEEM TO BE IMPROVING ALTHOUGH IT IS WORTH CARRYING YOUR OWN PAPER SUPPLY 4AX )F YOU ARE THINKING OF SPLASHING OUT ON A DESIGNER OUTlT OR SOME OTHER EXPENSIVE ITEM BEAR IN MIND THAT VISITORS FROM OUTSIDE THE %5 ARE ENTITLED TO AN )6! PURCHASE TAX REBATE ON SINGLE ITEMS VALUED AT OVER + 4HE PROCEDURE IS TO GET A FULL RECEIPT FROM THE SHOP DESCRIBING THE PURCHASE IN
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"RUNELLESCHIS DOME THE CITYS SIGNATURE BUILDING 3EE P
Ê 4HE 5FlZI 4HE WORLDS GREATEST COLLECTION OF )TAL IAN 2ENAISSANCE PAINT INGS 3EE P
Ê 4HE "ARGELLO -AG NIlCENT SCULPTURE AND APPLIED ARTS COLLECTION 3EE P
Ê 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA !MAZING FRESCOES BY -ASACCIO 'HIRLANDAIO 5CCELLO AND OTHERS 3EE P
Ê 3AN ,ORENZO #ROWDS mOCK TO SEE $AVID AT
THE !CCADEMIA BUT THE -ICHELANGELOS AT 3AN ,ORENZO ARE JUST AS REMARKABLE 3EE P
Ê 3AN -ARCO 3HOWCASE FOR THE DEVOTIONAL ART OF &RA !NGELICO 3EE P
Ê 3ANTA #ROCE 'IOTTOS FRESCOES AND "RUNELLES CHIS SUPERB 0AZZI CHA PEL 3EE P
Ê 0ALAZZO 0ITTI !NOTHER TOP mIGHT ART GALLERY AND &LORENCES lNEST GARDEN 3EE P
Ê #APPELLA "RANCACCI %POCH DElNING ART IN THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA DEL #ARMINE 3EE P
5 0ONTE 6ECCHIO FROM THE WEST
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INCE THE EARLY NINETEENTH CENTURY &,/2%.#% &IRENZE IN )TALIAN HAS BEEN CELEBRATED AS THE EPITOME OF EVERYTHING THAT IS BEAUTIFUL IN )TALIAN CIVILIZATION 3TENDHAL STAGGERED AROUND ITS MEDIEVAL STREETS IN A STUPOR OF DELIGHT THE "ROWNINGS SIGHED OVER ITS IDYLLIC CHARMS AND %- &ORSTERS ! 2OOM WITH A 6IEW PORTRAYED IT AS THE GREAT ANTIDOTE TO THE BLOODLESS STERILITY OF !NGLO 3AXON LIFE !ND FOR MOST MODERN VISITORS THE lRST RESOUNDING IMPRESSIONS OF THE CITY TEND TO CONlRM THE MYTH 4HE STUPENDOUS DOME OF THE CATHEDRAL IS VISIBLE OVER THE ROOFTOPS THE MOMENT YOU STEP OUT OF THE TRAIN STATION AND WHEN YOU REACH THE 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO THE CLOSE UP VIEW IS EVEN MORE BREATHTAKING WITH THE MULTICOLOURED $UOMO RISING BEHIND THE MARBLE CLAD "APTISTERY 7ANDER FROM THERE DOWN TOWARDS THE 2IVER !RNO AND THE ATTRACTION STILL HOLDS BEYOND THE 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA SITE OF THE IMMENSE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO THE WATER IS SPANNED BY THE SHOP LADEN MEDIEVAL 0ONTE 6ECCHIO WITH GORGEOUS 3AN -INIATO AL -ONTE GLISTENING ON THE HILL BEHIND IT )T HAS TO BE SAID HOWEVER THAT INTENSIVE EXPLORATION OF THE CITY IS NOT ALWAYS A STRESS FREE BUSINESS 4HE WONDERS OF &LORENCE ARE KNOWN TO THE WHOLE WORLD WHICH MEANS THAT IN HIGH SEASON THE SHEER NUMBER OF TOURISTS AT THE MAJOR SIGHTS IS OVERWHELMING n THE 5FlZI FOR INSTANCE IS ALL BUT IMPOSSIBLE TO GET INTO UNLESS YOUVE PRE BOOKED YOUR TICKETS MANY DAYS IN ADVANCE !ND YET SUCH IS THE WEALTH OF MONUMENTS AND ARTISTIC TREASURES HERE ITS IMPOSSIBLE NOT TO lND THE EXPERIENCE AN ENRICHING ONE 4USCANY WAS THE POWERHOUSE OF WHAT HAS COME TO BE KNOWN AS THE 2ENAISSANCE AND &LORENCE n THE REGIONS DOMINANT POLITICAL AND CULTURAL CENTRE n IS THE CONTINENTS SUPREME MONU MENT TO %UROPEAN CIVILIZATIONS MAJOR EVOLUTIONARY SHIFT INTO MODERNITY 4HE DEVELOPMENT OF THIS NEW SENSIBILITY CAN BE PLOTTED STAGE BY STAGE IN THE VAST PICTURE COLLECTION OF THE 5FlZI AND CHARTED IN THE SCULPTURE OF THE "ARGELLO THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO AND THE GUILD CHURCH OF /RSANMICHELE %QUALLY REVELATORY ARE THE FABULOUSLY DECORATED CHAPELS OF 3ANTA #ROCE AND 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA FORERUNNERS OF SUCH ASTONISHING CREATIONS AS -ASACCIOS FRESCOES AT 3ANTA -ARIA DEL #ARMINE &RA !NGELICOS SERENE PAINTINGS AT 3AN -ARCO AND !NDREA DEL 3ARTOS WORK AT 3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATA TO NAME JUST A FEW $URING THE lFTEENTH CENTURY THE LIKES OF "RUNELLESCHI AND !LBERTI BEGAN TO TRANSFORM THE CITYSCAPE OF &LORENCE RAISING BUILDINGS THAT WERE TO PROVIDE GENERATIONS OF ARCHITECTS WITH EXAMPLES FROM WHICH TO TAKE A LEAD AND STILL ADORN THE FABRIC OF THE CITY TODAY 4HE 2ENAISSANCE EMPHASIS ON HARMONY AND RATIONAL DESIGN IS EXPRESSED WITH UNRIVALLED ELOQUENCE IN "RUNELLESCHIS INTERIORS OF 3AN ,ORENZO 3ANTO 3PIRITO AND THE #APPELLA DEI 0AZZI AND IN !LBERTIS WORK AT 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA AND THE 0ALAZZO 2UCELLAI 4HE BIZARRE ARCHITECTURE
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&LORENTINE ADDRESSES
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.OTE THAT THERE IS A DOUBLE ADDRESS SYSTEM IN &LORENCE ONE FOR BUSINESSES AND ONE FOR ALL OTHER PROPERTIES n THAT AT LEAST IS THE THEORY BEHIND IT THOUGH IN FACT THE DISTINCTION IS FAR FROM RIGOROUS "USINESS ADDRESSES ARE FOLLOWED BY THE LETTER R FOR ROSSO AND ARE MARKED ON THE BUILDING WITH A RED NUMBER ON A WHITE PLATE SOMETIMES WITH AN R AFTER THE NUMERAL BUT NOT ALWAYS 4HE TWO SERIES ARE INDEPENDENT OF EACH OTHER WHICH MEANS THAT NO MAY BE FOLLOWED BY NO R FOR EXAMPLE WHILE NO MIGHT BE A LONG WAY FROM NO R
\ !RRIVAL AND INFORMATION
OF 3AN ,ORENZOS 3AGRESTIA .UOVA AND THE MARBLE STATUARY OF THE !CCADEMIA n HOME OF THE $AVID n DISPLAY THE FULL GENIUS OF -ICHELANGELO THE DOMINANT CREATIVE lGURE OF SIXTEENTH CENTURY )TALY %VERY QUARTER OF &LORENCE CAN BOAST A CHURCH OR COLLECTION WORTH AN EXTENDED CALL AND THE ENORMOUS 0ALAZZO 0ITTI CONSTITUTES A MUSEUM DISTRICT ON ITS OWN HALF A DOZEN MUSEUMS ARE GATHERED HERE ONE OF THEM AN ART GALLERY THAT ANY CITY WOULD ENVY 3O THERE ARE SIGHTS ENOUGH TO lLL A MONTH BUT TO ENJOY A VISIT FULLY ITS BEST TO RATION YOURSELF TO A COUPLE EACH DAY AND SPEND THE REST OF YOUR TIME STROLLING AND INVOLVING YOURSELF IN THE LIFE OF THE CITY 4HOUGH &LORENCE MIGHT SEEM A LITTLE SEDATE ON THE SURFACE ITS UNIVERSITY n AND THE PRESENCE OF LARGE NUMBERS OF LANGUAGE AND ART SCHOOLS n GUARANTEES A FAIR RANGE OF TERM TIME DIVERSIONS AND NIGHTLIFE 4HE CITY HAS SOME EXCELLENT RESTAURANTS AND CAFÏ BARS AMID THE TOURIST JOINTS AS WELL AS THE BIGGEST AND LIVELIEST MARKETS IN 4USCANY AND PLENTY OF BROWSABLE HIGH QUALITY SHOPS !ND THERES CERTAINLY NO SHORTAGE OF SPECIAL EVENTS n FROM THE HIGH ART FESTIVITIES OF THE -AGGIO -USICALE TO THE LICENSED BEDLAM OF THE #ALCIO 3TORICO A SERIES OF COSTUMED FOOTBALL MATCHES HELD IN THE LAST WEEK OF *UNE &OR A BRIEF INTRODUCTION TO THE HISTORY OF &LORENCE SEE P FOR THE -EDICI FAMILY TREE ESSENTIAL FOR DISPELLING CONFUSION IN THE lRST FEW DAYS OF CHURCH HOPPING SEE P
!RRIVAL AND INFORMATION 5NLESS YOURE DRIVING INTO THE CITY YOUR POINT OF ARRIVAL WILL BE 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA STATION WHICH IS LOCATED WITHIN A FEW MINUTES WALK OF THE HEART OF THE HISTORIC CENTRE RAIL AND BUS CONNECTIONS FROM THE THREE AIRPORTS THAT SERVE THE CITY ALL TERMINATE AT THE STATION AS DO INTERNATIONAL TRAINS AND BUSES FROM ALL OVER 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA
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-OST SCHEDULED AND CHARTER mIGHTS mY TO 0ISAS 'ALILEO 'ALILEI AIRPORT WWWPISA AIRPORTCOM KM WEST OF &LORENCE &OR DETAILS OF CONNECTIONS BETWEEN 0ISA AND &LORENCE SEE P !N INCREASING NUMBER OF INTERNATIONAL AIR SERVICES USE &LORENCES 0ERÒTOLA !MERIGO 6ESPUCCI AIRPORT WWWAEROPORTOlRENZEIT KM NORTHWEST OF THE CITY CENTRE 4HERES A TINY ARRIVALS HALL WITH EXCHANGE MACHINE HALF A DOZEN CAR RENTAL DESKS A LOST BAGGAGE COUNTER AND A SMALL TOUR IST OFlCE DAILY AMnPM 4HE 3)4! AND !4!& BUS COMPANIES OPERATE A JOINT SERVICE CALLED 6OLA IN BUS WWWATAFNET WHICH PROVIDES HALF HOURLY SHUTTLES INTO THE CITY FROM IMMEDIATELY OUTSIDE THE ARRIV
-OST TRAINS ARRIVE AT &LORENCES MAIN CENTRAL STATION 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA CALLED h&IRENZE 3-.v ON THE TIMETABLES )TS LOCATED JUST NORTH OF THE CHURCH AND SQUARE OF 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA A COUPLE OF BLOCKS WEST OF THE $UOMO )N THE STATION YOULL lND LEFT LUGGAGE FACILITIES SEE P AND A HOUR PHARMACY 7HILE IN AND AROUND THE STATION YOU SHOULD KEEP A CLOSE EYE ON YOUR BAGS AT ALL TIMES ITS A PRIME HUNTING GROUND FOR THIEVES AND PICKPOCKETS !LSO AVOID THE CONCOURSES VARIOUS TAXI AND HOTEL TOUTS HOWEVER FRIENDLY THEY MAY APPEAR )F YOURE PLANNING TO MOVE ON FROM &LORENCE BY TRAIN BE SURE TO LEAVE YOURSELF PLENTY OF TIME TO BUY YOUR TICKET THE QUEUES AT THE TICKET OFlCES AND TICKET MACHINES ARE NOTORIOUS AND YOU COULD lND YOURSELF WAITING IN LINE FOR HALF AN HOUR (ALF A DOZEN BUS COMPANIES RUN TO &LORENCE FROM VARIOUS PARTS OF 4USCANY 4HE MAIN OPERATOR IS 3)4! WHICH HAS A TERMINAL RIGHT OPPOSITE THE TRAIN STA TION AT 6IA 3ANTA #ATERINA DA 3IENA ALTHOUGH ALL THE OTHER COMPANIES ARE BASED NEARBY &OR ADDRESSES AND ROUTES SEE P
\ !RRIVAL AND INFORMATION
"Y TRAIN AND BUS
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ALS AREA 4HE lRST BUS INTO THE CITY IS AM LAST PM THE lRST OUT TO THE AIRPORT AT AM LAST PM 4ICKETS + CAN BE BOUGHT ON BOARD OR FROM MACHINES AT THE AIRPORT AND BUS STATION AND THE JOURNEY TAKES AROUND THIRTY MINUTES -OST BUSES ARRIVE AT AND DEPART FROM THE MAIN 3)4! BUS TERMINAL ON 6IA DI 3ANTA #ATERINA DA 3IENA OFF 0IAZZA DELLA 3TAZIONE A FEW STEPS WEST OF 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA TRAIN STATION AFTER PM HOWEVER THE BUSES DEPART FROM OUTSIDE "AR #RISTALLO IN ,ARGO !LINARI OFF THE EASTERN SIDE OF 0IAZZA DELLA 3TAZI ONE ! TAXI FROM 0ERÒTOLA INTO CENTRAL &LORENCE SHOULD COST ABOUT +n AND TAKE AROUND TWENTY MINUTES ! FEW AIRLINES USE "OLOGNA WWWBOLOGNA AIRPORTIT n ABOUT THE SAME DISTANCE FROM &LORENCE AS 0ISA n AS A GATEWAY AIRPORT FOR &LORENCE !EROBUS SHUTTLES DEPART EVERY TWENTY MINUTES AMnPM FROM OUTSIDE THE AIR PORTS 4ERMINAL ! !RRIVI TO "OLOGNAS MAIN TRAIN STATION ABOUT MIN FROM WHERE REGULAR TRAINS RUN TO &LORENCES 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA STATION IN ABOUT AN HOUR .OTE HOWEVER THAT 2YANAIR SERVICES TO "OLOGNA IN FACT mY TO &ORLÖ AIRPORT WHICH IS MORE THAN KM SOUTHEAST OF "OLOGNA AND VERY INCONVENIENT FOR &LORENCE
"Y CAR /NLY RESIDENTS ARE ALLOWED TO PARK ON THE STREETS IN THE CENTRE SO YOU HAVE TO LEAVE YOUR CAR IN ONE OF THE CITYS MAIN CAR PARKS .ORTH OF THE !RNO THE CAR PARKS NEAREST THE CENTRE ARE UNDERNEATH THE TRAIN STATION &ORTEZZA DA "ASSO USUALLY THE ONE WITH MOST SPACE -ERCATO #ENTRALE AND ALONG THE !RNO AT ,UNGARNO !MERIGO 6ESPUCCI ,UNGARNO DELLE 'RAZIE AND ,UNGARNO DELLA :ECCA 6ECCHIA 3OUTH OF THE RIVER THE BEST OPTIONS ARE 0IAZZA DEL #ARMINE 0IAZZA #ESTELLO OR AROUND 0ORTA 3AN &REDIANO THERES A CLUSTER OF CAR PARKS HERE 9OU CAN ALSO lND PARKING SPACES ALONGSIDE THE CITYS MAIN RING ROADS THE 6IALI 4HE LOWEST TARIFF YOULL lND IS AROUND + PER HOUR A MORE TYPICAL RATE IS + FOR TWO HOURS )F YOU WANT TO LEAVE YOUR CAR FOR A PROLONGED PERIOD TRY 0IAZZALE -ICHELANGE LO THE NEAREST SUBSTANTIAL FREE PARKING AREA TO THE CENTRE )TS ABOUT TWENTY MINUTES WALK TO THE 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA FROM HERE OR A SHORT RIDE INTO THE CENTRE OF TOWN ON BUS OR 7ATCH OUT FOR A SCAM IN WHICH BOGUS CAR PARK ATTENDANTS DIRECT YOU INTO A PARKING SPACE THUS IMPLYING THERES A CHARGE THERE ISNT
&LORENCE ON THE )NTERNET
& , /2% .#%
\ #ITY TRANSPORT
4OURIST INFORMATION WWWlRENZETURISMOIT 4HE CHIEF OFlCIAL TOURIST OFlCE SITE WITH AN %NGLISH LANGUAGE OPTION 5SEFUL FOR INFORMATION ON FORTHCOMING EXHIBITIONS AND HOTEL LISTINGS &IRENZE /NLINE WWWlONLINEITTURISMO #LASSY IF COMMERCIALLY ORIENTED SITE FROM ONE OF &LORENCES MAIN SERVICE PROVIDERS WITH INFORMATION ON ART MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA SHOPPING n AND EVEN lNDING A JOB &IRENZENET WWWlRENZENET 3MART STYLISH WEBSITE PACKED WITH CITY INFO AND LINKS 5FlZI 'ALLERY WWWUFlZIlRENZEIT 4HE OFlCIAL WEBSITE OF THE 5FlZI WITH IMAGES OF THE PAINTINGS HISTORICAL NOTES NEWS VIRTUAL REALITY TOURS OF SOME ROOMS AND AN INDEX OF ARTISTS 9OUR 7AY TO &LORENCE WWWARCANETmORENCEHTM 4HE MOST COMPREHENSIVE SITE WITH NEWS PLUS INFORMATION ON TRANSPORT ACCOMMODATION AND OPENING HOURS
)NFORMATION &OR INFORMATION ABOUT &LORENCES SIGHTS AND EVENTS THE MAIN TOURIST OFlCE IS AT 6IA #AVOUR R lVE MINUTES WALK NORTH OF THE $UOMO -ONn3AT AMn PM 3UN AMnPM OR ! QUIETER OFlCE RUN BY THE TOWN COUNCIL IS JUST OFF 0IAZZA 3ANTA #ROCE AT "ORGO 3ANTA #ROCE R -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM 4HERES ALSO A CON VENIENT OFlCE CLOSE TO THE TRAIN STATION TO THE RIGHT OF THE BACK OF 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA CHURCH ON THE FAR SIDE OF THE LARGE 0IAZZA DELLA 3TAZIONE -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM !LL THREE PROVIDE AN ADEQUATE MAP AND VARIOUS LEAmETS INCLUDING A SHEET WITH UPDATED OPENING HOURS AND ENTRANCE CHARGES 4HE OFlCE AT 6IA #AVOUR ALSO HANDLES INFORMATION ON THE WHOLE OF &LORENCE PROVINCE .ONE OF THESE OFlCES WILL BOOK ACCOMMODATION BUT CAN GIVE YOU THE NAMES OF PRIVATE BOOK ING AGENCIES 4HEY ALSO HAND OUT THE FREE INFORMATION BOOKLETS )NFORMACITTÌ AND 6IVIlRENZE /NE OF THE BEST SOURCES OF INFORMATION ON EVENTS IS &IRENZE 3PETTACOLO + A MONTHLY PARTLY BILINGUAL LISTINGS MAGAZINE AVAILABLE FROM BOOKSHOPS AND LARGER NEWSSTANDS
#ITY TRANSPORT &INDING YOUR WAY AROUND CENTRAL &LORENCE IS STRAIGHTFORWARD n ITS JUST TEN MIN UTES WALK FROM 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA TO THE CENTRAL 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO ALONG 6IA DE 0ANZANI AND 6IA DE #ERRETANI 9OU CANT REALLY MISS THESE ROADS STAND WITH YOUR BACK TO THE TRAIN STATION AND THEY FORM THE MAIN THOROUGHFARE SWEEPING AWAY IN FRONT OF YOU AND TO THE LEFT 4HE GREAT MAJORITY OF THE MAJOR SIGHTS ARE WITHIN A FEW MINUTES OF THE $UOMO 7ITHIN THE HISTORIC CENTRE WALKING IS GENERALLY THE MOST EFlCIENT WAY OF GETTING AROUND AND THE IMPOSITION OF THE ZONA A TRAFlCO LIMITATO :4, n WHICH LIMITS TRAFlC IN THE CENTRE TO RESIDENTS CARS DELIVERY VEHICLES AND PUBLIC TRANSPORT n HAS REDUCED THE ONCE UNBEARABLE POLLUTION AND NOISE /N THE OTHER HAND THE :4, HAS INCREASED THE AVERAGE SPEED OF THE TRAFlC SO YOU SHOULD BE ESPECIALLY CAREFUL BEFORE STEPPING OFF THE NARROW PAVEMENTS
"USES )F YOU WANT TO CROSS TOWN IN A HURRY OR VISIT SOME OF THE PERIPHERAL SIGHTS YOUR BEST OPTION IS TO USE ONE OF THE FREQUENT AND SPEEDY ORANGE !4!& BUSES 4ICK ETS ARE VALID FOR UNLIMITED TRAVEL WITHIN ONE HOUR + THREE HOURS + HOURS + TWO DAYS + THREE DAYS + AND SEVEN DAYS + ! "IGLIETTO -ULTIPLO GIVES FOUR SIXTY MINUTE TICKETS FOR + 9OU CAN BUY TICKETS FROM THE MAIN !4!& INFORMATION OFlCE IN THE BAYS TO THE EAST OF 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA TRAIN STATION DAILY AMnPM WWWATAFNET FROM ANY SHOPS AND STALLS DISPLAYING THE !4!& SIGN AND FROM AUTOMATIC MACHINES ALL OVER &LORENCE TICKETS CANNOT BE BOUGHT ON BUSES /NCE YOURE ON BOARD YOU MUST STAMP YOUR TICKET IN THE MACHINE TO BEGIN ITS PERIOD OF VALIDITY 4HERES A HEFTY ON THE SPOT lNE FOR ANY PASSENGER WITHOUT A VALIDATED TICKET -OST OF THE ROUTES THAT ARE USEFUL TO TOURISTS STOP BY THE STATION NOTABLY FOR &IESOLE AND GOES CLOCKWISE THROUGH 0IAZZALE -ICHELANGELO 3AN -INIATO AND 0ORTA 2OMANA ALL ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE RIVER WHILE GOES ANTI CLOCKWISE ROUND THE SAME ROUTE )N ADDITION TO THESE SMALL ELECTRIC BUSES RUN ALONG FOUR VERY CONVENIENT CENTRAL CITY ROUTES "US ! RUNS FROM THE STATION RIGHT THROUGH THE HISTORIC CENTRE PASSING CLOSE BY THE $UOMO AND 3IGNORIA THEN HEADING EAST JUST NORTH OF 3ANTA #ROCE " FOLLOWS THE NORTH BANK OF THE !RNO WHILE # DESCENDS FROM 0IAZZA 3AN -ARCO HEADING SOUTH PAST 3ANTA #ROCE AND ACROSS THE 0ONTE DELLE 'RAZIE ON ITS WAY TO 6IA "ARDI 4HESE THREE BUSES FOLLOW SIMILAR ROUTES ON THEIR RETURN JOURNEYS "US $ LEAVES THE STATION AND CROSSES THE RIVER AT 0ONTE 6ESPUCCI FROM HERE IT BECOMES A HANDY /LTRARNO BUS RUNNING RIGHT ALONG THE SOUTH BANK OF THE RIVER AND ON THE RETURN JOURNEY JINKING UP PAST 0ALAZZO 0ITTI 3ANTO 3PIRITO AND THE #ARMINE CHURCH ON ITS WAY BACK TO THE 0ONTE 6ESPUCCI
& , /2% .#%
\ !CCOMMODATION
4AXIS 4AXIS ARE WHITE WITH YELLOW TRIM )TS DIFlCULT TO mAG DOWN A CAB ON THE STREET BUT THERE ARE PLENTY OF CENTRAL RANKS KEY LOCATIONS INCLUDE THE STATION 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO 0IAZZA 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA 0IAZZA 3AN -ARCO 0IAZZA 3ANTA #ROCE AND 0IAZZA 3ANTA 4RÖNITA 9OU CAN ALSO CALL A hRADIO TAXIv ON OR )F YOU DO YOULL BE GIVEN THE CARS CODE NAME n USUALLY A TOWN CITY OR COUNTRY n AND ITS NUMBER BOTH OF WHICH ARE EMBLAZONED ON THE CAB TOGETHER WITH THE PHONE NUMBER OF THE COMPANY )TALIANS TEND NOT TO ORDER CABS FAR IN ADVANCE SIMPLY CALL UP A FEW MINUTES BEFOREHAND !LL RIDES ARE METERED EXPECT TO PAY +n FOR A SHORT HOP WITHIN THE CENTRE 3UPPLEMENTS ON THE METERED FARE ARE PAYABLE BETWEEN PM AND AM + ALL DAY ON 3UNDAY AND PUBLIC HOLIDAYS + FOR JOURNEYS OUTSIDE THE CITY LIMITS TO &IESOLE FOR EXAMPLE AND FOR EACH PIECE OF LUGGAGE PLACED IN THE BOOT + )F YOU CALL A CAB IT WILL ARRIVE WITH A SMALL SUM ON THE METER WHICH THE DRIVER SWITCHES ON WHEN HE BEGINS THE JOURNEY TO PICK YOU UP
!CCOMMODATION !CCOMMODATION IN &LORENCE CAN BE A PROBLEM HOTELS MAY BE PLENTIFUL BUT PRICES ARE HIGH AND STANDARDS OFTEN NOT 7ORSE STILL THE TOURIST INVASION HAS VERY FEW SLACK SPOTS hLOW SEASONv IS DElNED BY MOST HOTELS AS MEANING MID *ULY TO THE END OF !UGUST THE WEEKS DURING WHICH NEARLY ALL )TALIANS HEAD FOR THE
& , /2% .#%
\ !CCOMMODATION
BEACHES OR THE MOUNTAINS AND FROM MID .OVEMBER TO MID -ARCH EXCEPT FOR THE #HRISTMAS AND .EW 9EAR PERIOD "ETWEEN -ARCH AND /CTOBER YOULL NEED TO BOOK YOUR ROOM WELL IN ADVANCE OR RECONCILE YOURSELF TO STAYING SOME WAY FROM THE CENTRE )F YOURE CONSIDERING A PACKAGE DEAL CHECK THE LOCATION OF YOUR HOTEL CAREFULLY )F YOU HAVENT RESERVED AHEAD THE MAIN TOURIST OFlCE CAN GIVE YOU THE NUM BERS OF VARIOUS PRIVATE BOOKING AGENCIES BUT THERE IS NO LONGER AN OFlCIAL ACCOMMODATION BOOKING SERVICE IN &LORENCE "E WARY OF RESORTING TO TOUTS WHO HANG AROUND THE QUEUES FOR THIS OFlCE AND AROUND THE STATION IN GENERAL SOME OF THEIR HOTELS ARE GENUINE BUT ARE LIKELY TO BE EXPENSIVE OR FAR FROM THE CENTRE WHILE OTHERS ARE UNLICENSED PRIVATE HOUSES WHOSE SAFETY STANDARDS MAY BE DUBIOUS &LORENCES HOSTELS AND CAMPSITES ARE DETAILED ON PPn !CCOMMODATION IN CENTRAL &LORENCE IS MARKED ON THE MAP ON PPn WHILE MORE OUTLYING PLACES ARE SHOWN ON THE MAP ON PPn
(OTELS (OTELS IN )TALY ARE GRADED ON A SCALE RUNNING FROM ONE STAR TO lVE STAR SEE P BUT BEAR IN MIND THAT PRICES IN &LORENCE ARE HIGHER THAN ANYWHERE ELSE IN THE COUNTRY EXCEPT 6ENICE ONE STAR ESTABLISHMENTS IN THIS CITY COST AS MUCH AS TWO STAR n EVEN THREE STAR n PLACES ELSEWHERE IN 4USCANY 4HE MAIN CONCENTRA TION OF LOWISH COST HOTELS IS TO THE EAST OF THE STATION CENTRED ON 6IA &AENZA AND 6IA .AZIONALE AN AREA THAT HAS A SIZEABLE NIGHT TIME POPULATION OF ASSORTED LOW LIFE WITH PIMPS AND PROSTITUTES ON EVERY CORNER .OTE THAT SOME OF THE PLACES IN THIS ZONE ARE UNLICENSED IF YOURE AT ALL DOUBTFUL ABOUT A HOTEL GIVE IT A MISS !T THE OTHER END OF THE SCALE THE GREAT MAJORITY OF THE TOP BRACKET HOTELS ARE TO BE FOUND WITHIN A BRIEF STROLL OF 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA AND 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO /UR PRICE CODES SEE P INDICATE THE PRICE OF EACH ESTABLISHMENTS CHEAP EST DOUBLE ROOM IN HIGH SEASON YOU WILL OFTEN lND LOWER RATES BETWEEN MID .OVEMBER AND MID -ARCH AS WELL IN *ULY AND !UGUST 3MALLER HOTELS MAY REGARD THE WHOLE YEAR AS PEAK PERIOD BUT IT IS ALWAYS WORTH ASKING SINCE MOST PLACES WILL DROP THEIR PRICES TO lLL ROOMS 7ATCH OUT FOR THE HIDDEN EXTRA COST OF BREAKFAST SOME HOTELS INCLUDE IT IN THE ROOM PRICE BUT MANY DONT ITS ALWAYS CHEAPER AND OFTEN NICER TO EAT IN A BAR OR CAFÏ IF YOU HAVE THE OPTION 0RICES FOR ROOMS MAY ALSO VARY WITHIN THE SAME HOTEL SO IF THE lRST PRICE YOURE QUOTED SEEMS HIGH ASK IF THERES ANYTHING CHEAPER n ROOMS WITHOUT A PRIVATE BATHROOM ALWAYS COST LESS !S EVER IN BIG CITIES SINGLE ROOMS ARE AT A PREMIUM YOULL DO WELL TO GET AWAY WITH LESS THAN TWO THIRDS THE COST OF A DOUBLE 4HE MAXIMUM COST OF A ROOM PLUS ANY CHARGE FOR BREAKFAST SHOULD BE POSTED ON THE BACK OF THE DOOR IF IT ISNT OR IF YOU HAVE ANY OTHER COMPLAINTS CONTACT THE TOURIST OFlCE .OTE THAT MANY HOTELS REQUIRE A DEPOSIT TO SECURE BOOKING WHICH WILL INVOLVE SENDING CREDIT CARD DETAILS IF A HOTEL DEMANDS A CASH DEPOSIT GO ELSEWHERE 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO AND 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA
5P TO + -ARIA ,UISA DE -EDICI 6IA DEL #ORSO 3LIGHTLY RUNDOWN QUIRKY ONE STAR ON THE lRST mOOR NO LIFT WITH PAINTING BY NUM BERS PORTRAITS OF THE -EDICI IN THE ROOMS "UT IT IS COMFORTABLE CENTRAL SMALL NINE ROOMS TWO WITH PRIVATE BATHROOM AND QUIET .O CREDIT CARDS "OOK
ING BY PHONE ONLY #URFEW PM -AXIM ENTRANCES AT 6IA DEI #ALZAIUOLI LIFT AND 6IA DE -EDICI STAIRS WWWHOTELMAXIMlRENZEIT &EW ONE STAR HOTELS OFFER A BETTER LOCATION THAN THIS FRIENDLY ROOM PLACE JUST A MINUTE FROM THE $UOMO 4HE CLEAN AIR CONDITIONED DOUBLE ROOMS ARE ALL GOOD VALUE THE QUIETEST LOOK ONTO A CENTRAL COURTYARD
\ !CCOMMODATION
/VER + "ENIVIENI 6IA DELLE /CHE WWWHOTELBENIVIENIIT 4HIS SMALL FRIENDLY AND FAMILY RUN THREE STAR IS SITUATED BETWEEN THE $UOMO AND 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA TUCKED AWAY ON A QUIET BACKSTREET &IFTEEN SMALLISH ROOMS ARE RANGED AROUND TWO mOORS OF A FORMER SYNAGOGUE THE ROOMS ON THE UPPER mOOR ARE BRIGHTER BUT ALL ARE SIMPLE MODERN AND IN PERFECT CONDITION !S THEY SHOULD BE THE PLACE ONLY OPENED IN $OUBLES AT AROUND + n BUT THEY SOME TIMES HAVE ROOMS GOING AT ALMOST HALF THAT PRICE SO ITS ALWAYS WORTH ASKING "RUNELLESCHI 0IAZZA 3ANTA %LISABETTA WWW HOTELBRUNELLESCHIIT $ESIGNED BY LEADING ARCHITECT )TALO 'AMBERINI THIS FOUR STAR HOTEL IS BUILT AROUND A "YZANTINE CHAPEL AND lFTH CENTURY TOWER ! SMALL IN HOUSE MUSEUM DISPLAYS 2OMAN AND OTHER FRAG MENTS FOUND DURING BUILDING WORK $ECOR IS SIMPLE AND STYLISH WITH THE ORIGINAL BRICK AND STONE OFFSET BY LOTS OF WOOD THE ROOMS ARE SPACIOUS n THE BEST ON THE FOURTH mOOR HAVE VIEWS OF THE $UOMO AND #AMPANILE 4HE RACK RATE FOR A DOUBLE IS UPWARDS OF + BUT THERE ARE OFTEN SPECIAL DEALS TO BE HAD 'ALLERY (OTEL !RT 6ICOLO DELL/RO WWWLUNGARNOHOTELSCOMGALLERY 4HIS IMMENSE LY STYLISH FOUR STAR IS UNLIKE ANY OTHER HOTEL IN CENTRAL &LORENCE ! MEMBER OF THE $ESIGN (OTELS GROUP IT HAS A SLEEK MINIMALIST AND HYPER MODERN LOOK n LOTS OF DARK WOOD AND NEUTRAL COLOURS n AND TASTEFUL CONTEMPORARY ART DISPLAYED IN THE RECEPTION AND ALL ROOMS 4HERE IS A SMALL BUT SMART BAR A SUSHI RESTAURANT AND AN ATTRACTIVE LOUNGE WITH ART lLLED BOOKSHELVES AND COMFORTABLE SOFAS 4HE
LOCATION IS PERFECT IN A SMALL QUIET SQUARE TEN SEC ONDS WALK FROM THE 0ONTE 6ECCHIO $OUBLES FROM + AND WAY UP (ERMITAGE 6ICOLO -ARZIO 0IAZZA DEL 0ESCE WWWHERMITAGEHOTELCOM 0RE BOOKING IS ESSEN TIAL TO SECURE ONE OF THE ROOMS IN THIS SUPERBLY LOCATED THREE STAR HOTEL RIGHT NEXT TO THE 0ONTE 6ECCHIO WITH UNBEATABLE VIEWS FROM SOME ROOMS AS WELL AS FROM THE mOWER lLLED ROOF GARDEN 4HE SERVICE IS FRIENDLY AND ROOMS ARE COSY DECORATED WITH THE ODD ANTIQUE mOURISH BATHROOMS ARE SMALL BUT NICELY DONE $OUBLE GLAZING HAS ELIMINATED THE NOISE PROBLEMS ONCE SUFFERED BY THE FRONT ROOMS AND YOULL NEED TO BOOK MANY MONTHS IN ADVANCE TO SECURE ONE OF THESE 3AVOY 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA WWWROCCOFORTEHOTELSCOM 4HE 3AVOY HAD BECOME SOMETHING OF A DODDERY OLD DOWAGER BEFORE BEING TAKEN IN HAND BY THE 2OCCO &ORTE GROUP .OW ITS ONCE AGAIN ONE OF THE CITYS VERY BEST HOTELS HAVING BEEN REFURBISHED IN DISCREETLY LUXURIOUS MODERN STYLE WITH PLENTY OF BARE WOOD STONE COLOURED FABRICS AND PEAT COLOURED MARBLE !ND THE LOCATION COULD NOT BE MORE CENTRAL #OSTS VARY ACCORDING TO THE TIME OF YEAR AND WHETHER THERE ARE SPECIAL OFFERS BUT YOU CAN EXPECT TO PAY FROM + FOR A DOUBLE AND MORE THAN + FOR THE 2EPUB BLICA SUITE 0RICES DO NOT INCLUDE BREAKFAST
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+n !LDINI 6IA DEI #ALZAIUOLI WWWHOTELALDINIIT ! TWO STAR AT A VERY CONVENIENT ADDRESS ON THE CORNER OF 0IAZZA $UOMO /F ITS FOURTEEN ROOMS ALL THE DOUBLES HAVE PRIVATE BATHROOMS THE SINGLES COME WITH AND WITHOUT #OSTANTINI 6IA DEI #ALZAIUOLI WWWHOTELCOSTANTINIIT 4HIS FOURTEEN ROOM TWO STAR SHARES A GREAT LOCATION WITH THE !LDINI ON THE CITYS MAIN PEDESTRIAN STREET CLOSE TO THE $UOMO AND 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA &IRENZE 0IAZZA DEI $ONATI WWWALBERGOlRENZENET #LEAN AND CENTRAL NO FRILLS ONE STAR HOTEL )T HAS ROOMS SO THERES A BETTER CHANCE OF lNDING SPACE HERE THAN IN SOME OF THE SMALLER PLACES !LL ROOMS HAVE PRIVATE BATHROOMS THOSE ON TOP mOORS ENJOY A TOUCH MORE DAYLIGHT .O CREDIT CARDS
7EST OF THE CENTRE 5P TO + %LITE 6IA DELLA 3CALA ! TINY TWO STAR RUN BY ONE OF THE MOST PLEASANT MANAGERS IN TOWN &IVE DOUBLE ROOMS HAVE PRIVATE BATHROOMS ONE CHEAPER ROOM HAS A SHOWER BUT SHARES A TOILET WITH TWO SINGLE ROOMS 1UIETER ROOMS ARE AT THE BACK /TTAVIANI 0IAZZA DEGLI /TTAVIANI PENSIONEOT TAVIANI HOTMAILCOM 4HE BEST OF THIS ONE STARS NINETEEN ROOMS ONLY TWO WITH PRIVATE BATHROOMS OVERLOOK 0IAZZA 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA OTHERS ARENT SO GOOD BUT ARE STILL BETTER THAN MANY IN THIS CAT EGORY .O CREDIT CARDS +n !LESSANDRA "ORGO 3ANTI !POSTOLI WWWHOTELALESSANDRA COM /NE OF THE BEST AND FRIENDLIEST OF THE CENTRAL TWO STARS WITH ROOMS WITH BATHROOM OCCU PYING A SIXTEENTH CENTURY PALAZZO AND FURNISHED IN A MIXTURE OF ANTIQUE AND MODERN STYLES 5SED BY THE FASHION SHOW CROWD SO BOOKING IS ESSENTIAL IN 3EPTEMBER $ISCREETLY SIGNED ON THE STREET SO EASY TO MISS
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\ !CCOMMODATION
"RETAGNA ,UNGARNO #ORSINI WWW HOTELBRETAGNANET 4HIS ONE STAR RIVERFRONT HOTEL HAS A SUPERB LOCATION AND ROCOCO STYLE BREAKFAST AND LIVING ROOMS 4HE NEW MANAGEMENT IS INCREAS ING TO SIX THE NUMBER OF ROOMS OVERLOOKING THE !RNO AND BY ALL ROOMS SHOULD HAVE EN SUITE BATHROOMS AND AIR CONDITIONING
0ORTA 2OSSA 6IA 0ORTA 2OSSA WWWHOTELPORTAROSSAIT &LOR ENCE HAS SMARTER THREE STAR HOTELS BUT NONE AS VENERABLE AS THE ROOM 0ORTA 2OSSA WHICH HAS BEEN A HOTEL SINCE THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY AND HOSTED AMONG OTHERS "YRON AND 3TENDHAL 9OU COME HERE FOR CHARACTER AND NINETEENTH CENTURY AMBIENCE RATHER THAN LUXURIOUS MODERN TOUCHES $OUBLES lVE HAVE BATHS THE REST HAVE SHOWERS COST FROM + OR FOR + MORE YOU CAN SPLASH OUT ON ONE OF THE TWO FABULOUS TOWER ROOMS 3COTI 6IA DE 4ORNABUONI WWWHOTELSCOTICOM 4HE BEST BUDGET OPTION ON THIS NOTORIOUSLY EXPENSIVE STREET *UST ELEVEN ROOMS MOST WITH BATHROOMS BUT ALL MORE THAN DECENT
4ORRE 'UELFA "ORGO 33 !POSTOLI WWWHOTELTORREGUELFA COM 4WENTY TASTEFULLY FURNISHED ROOMS ARE CRAMMED ON TO THE THIRD mOOR OF THIS ANCIENT TOWER THE TALLEST PRIVATE BUILDING IN THE CITY 'UESTS CAN ENJOY THE MARVELLOUS VIEWS ALL OVER THE CITY FROM THE TOWERS SMALL ROOF GARDEN 4HERE ARE ALSO SIX CHEAPER DOUBLES ON THE lRST mOOR NO 46 AND MORE NOISE FROM THE ROAD 6ERY CHARISMATIC AND VERY POPULAR /VER + "EACCI 4ORNABUONI 6IA DE 4ORNABUONI WWW TORNABUONIHOTELSCOM 7ITH ROOMS OCCUPYING THE TOP TWO mOORS OF A lFTEENTH CENTURY PALAZZO THIS IS A BEGUILINGLY ANTIQUES STUFFED THREE STAR HOTEL PERFECTLY PLACED ON &LORENCES POSHEST SHOP PING STREET 4HE ROOF GARDEN IS SUPERB ESPECIALLY IN SPRING WHEN THE JASMINE IS BLOSSOMING 3PECIAL OFFERS ARE OFTEN AVAILABLE ON THE WEBSITE (ELVETIA "RISTOL 6IA DEI 0ESCIONI WWWROYALDEMEURECOM )N BUSINESS SINCE AND FAVOURED BY SUCH LUMI NARIES AS 0IRANDELLO 3TRAVINSKY AND 'ARY #OOPER &OLLOWING A RElT IN THE S THIS IS NOW UNDOUBT EDLY &LORENCES lNEST SMALL SCALE lVE STAR HOTEL 4HE PUBLIC SPACES AND BEDROOMS AND SUITES EACH UNIQUE ARE FAULTLESSLY DESIGNED AND lTTED MIXING ANTIQUE FURNISHINGS AND MODERN FACILITIES n SUCH AS JACUZZIS IN MANY BATHROOMS n TO CREATE A STYLE THAT EVOKES THE "ELLE %POQUE WITHOUT BEING
SUFFOCATINGLY NOSTALGIC OR TWEE )F YOURE GOING TO TREAT YOURSELF THIS IS A LEADING CONTENDER 2OOMS START AT AROUND + WITHOUT BREAKFAST *+ 0LACE 0IAZZA 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA WWWJKPLACECOM /NE OF THE NEWEST AND MOST APPEALING OF &LORENCES DESIGNER HOTELS OCCUPIES A lNE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY BUILDING ON 0IAZZA 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA *+ 0LACES BIG IDEA IS TO CREATE A HOMELY RATHER THAN A HOTEL LIKE ATMOSPHERE WITH A HOSTESS RATHER THAN A RECEP TIONIST A BAR FROM WHICH YOU HELP YOURSELF AND A COMMUNAL BREAKFAST TABLE WHERE YOU CAN CHAT WITH FELLOW GUESTS 4HE TWENTY ROOMS BEAR DESIGNER -ICHELE "ÚNANS EXOTIC ELEGANT STAMP AND HAVE $6$ PLAYERS AND mAT SCREEN 46S $OUBLES FROM +
.ORTH OF THE CENTRE 5P TO + "ENVENUTI AND 'ENZIANELLA 6IA #AVOUR BENSECC IOLIT 4WO DEPEND ABLE IF UNTHRILLING HOTELS SHARING THE SAME RECEP TION WITH ROOMS IN ALL VIRTUALLY ON THE 0IAZZA DELLA ,IBERTÌ WHICH MEANS A BUS OR LONG WALK TO THE SIGHTS 'IOVANNA 6IA &AENZA WWWALBERGOGIOVANNA IT 4HIRD mOOR HOTEL NO LIFT THATS SMALL TIDY AND AS CHEAP AS ANY ON 6IA &AENZA )T HAS JUST SEVEN ROOMS FROM AROUND + A HANDFUL WITH PRIVATE BATHROOMS 4HE .ELLA ON THE SECOND mOOR WWWHOTELNELLANET HAS ROOMS FROM + FOR WHICH YOU ALSO GET AIR CONDI TIONING AND EN SUITE BATHROOMS n -ARCELLA 6IA &AENZA 3EVEN GOOD SIZED ROOMS IN THIS THIRD mOOR ONE STAR ONE WITH PRIVATE BATHROOM .O CREDIT CARDS .AZIONALE 6IA .AZIONALE WWWNAZIONALEHOTELIT !N AVERAGE BUT SERVICE ABLE FAMILY RUN ONE STAR PLACE WITH NINE ROOMS lVE WITH PRIVATE BATHROOM PLANNED RENOVATIONS WILL GIVE ALL ROOMS EN SUITE BATHROOMS EQUIDISTANT FROM THE TRAIN STATION AND THE 3AN ,ORENZO MARKET (AS DOUBLES WITH AND WITHOUT BATHROOMS AND REMARKABLY CHEAP SINGLES 6IA &AENZA 3EVERAL BUDGET HOTELS ARE CRAMMED INTO THIS ADDRESS NEAR THE STATION n NOTE THERE IS NO LIFT "EST OF THE ONE STARS IS THE 0AOLA WWWALBERGOPAOLACOM UP ON THE TOP mOOR WITH SEVEN ROOMS FROM + ALL PAINTED IN BRIGHT COLOURS AND ALL WITH SHOWER CUBICLES IN THE CORNER OF THE ROOMS 4OILETS ARE ON THE CORRIDOR /N THE SAME mOOR IS THE -ERLINI WWWHOTELMERLINIIT WHICH HAS TEN ROOMS SIX WITH PRIVATE BATHROOMS 9OULL PAY FROM + FOR A DOUBLE HERE + LESS FOR
\ !CCOMMODATION
+n !USONIA E 2IMINI AND +URSAAL 6IA .AZIONALE WWW KURSONIACOM 4WO CO MANAGED AND NICELY REFUR BISHED HOTELS NEAR THE STATION THE TWO STAR +URSAAL IS ON THE SECOND mOOR AND THE ONE STAR !USONIA ON THE THIRD !LTOGETHER THEY HAVE THIRTY ROOMS SUPERIOR DOUBLES WITH AIR CONDITIONING AND EN SUITE BATHROOMS AND SOME STANDARD ROOMS WITHOUT BATHROOMS COSTING AROUND + LESS 4HEY ALSO OFFER )NTERNET ACCESS AND A LAUNDRY SERVICE "ELLETTINI 6IA DEI #ONTI WWWHOTELBELLETTINICOM 4HE WARM WELCOME OF OWNER 3IGNORA 'INA COUNTS FOR MUCH IN THIS ROOM TWO STAR CLOSE TO 3AN ,ORENZO SO TOO DO HER COPIOUS BREAKFASTS -OST OF THE SIMPLE ROOMS HAVE PRIVATE BATHROOMS ALL HAVE 46S AND AIR CONDITIONING #ASCI 6IA #AVOUR WWWHOTELCASCICOM )T WOULD BE HARD TO lND A BETTER TWO STAR IN CENTRAL &LORENCE THAN THIS ROOM HOTEL /NLY TWO SOUND PROOFED ROOMS FACE THE BUSY STREET THE REST ARE QUIET CLEAN AND WELL lTTED OUT PLUS THEYRE WELL PRICED 4HE WELCOME IS WARM AND THE OWNERS ARE UNFAILINGLY HELPFUL AND COURTEOUS 4HE BIG BUFFET BREAKFAST IN THE VAULTED AND FRESCOED RECEPTION AREA IS A MAJOR PLUS AS IS FREE )NTERNET ACCESS #IMABUE 6IA "ONIFACIO ,UPI WWWHOTELCIMABUEIT 4HIS SIX TEEN ROOM HOTEL OFFERS MORE THAN THE USUAL TWO STAR ESTABLISHMENT THOUGH ITS LOCATION IS A TOUCH REMOTE 3OME OF THE DOUBLE AND TRIPLE ROOMS HAVE FRESCOED CEILINGS AND ALL ARE KITTED OUT WITH ANTIQUES AND PLEASANT FABRICS !LL ROOMS HAVE MOSTLY SMALL PRIVATE BATHROOMS THE FAMILY ATMOSPHERE IS WELCOMING AND THE BREAKFASTS MORE THAN GENEROUS
#ONCORDIA 6IA DELL!MORINO WWWWALBERGOCONCORDIAIT !N EXTREMELY CONVEN IENT lRST mOOR HOTEL NO LIFT LOCATED AT THE BACK OF 3AN ,ORENZO CHURCH 4HERE ARE SIXTEEN ROOMS ALL WITH PRIVATE BATHROOMS AND THEY HAVE BEEN GIVEN A WARM TASTEFULLY COLOURED LOOK AS PART OF AN UPGRADE TO TWO STAR STATUS
$ESIRÏE 6IA &IUME WWW DESIREEHOTELCOM #OMPLETELY OVERHAULED TWO STAR FEATURING STAINED GLASS WINDOWS SIMULATED ANTIQUE FURNITURE AND A BATH IN EACH OF THE EIGHTEEN ROOMS ,OCATED ONE BLOCK EAST OF THE STATION SO THERE ARE BETTER SITUATED HOTELS AT THIS PRICE BUT ITS NONETHE LESS A REASONABLE CHOICE %RINA 6IA &IUME ! TWO STAR HOTEL LOCATED ON THE THIRD mOOR OF AN OLD PALAZZO VERY CLOSE TO THE STATION (AS FOURTEEN DOUBLE ROOMS ONE WITHOUT EN SUITE
'LOBUS 6IA 3ANT!NTONINO WWWHOTELGLOBUSCOM 4ASTEFULLY RENOVATED THREE STAR CLOSE TO 3AN ,ORENZO 4HE AIR CONDI TIONED ROOMS ARE FURNISHED SIMPLY IN MODERN STYLE AND ARE EXCELLENT VALUE 0ANORAMA 6IA #AVOUR ! ROOM TWO STAR THATS A FAVOURITE WITH SCHOOL GROUPS IN THE UNIVERSITY AREA JUST NORTH OF 3AN -ARCO ON THE CITYS MAIN NORTH RUNNING ROAD
2ESIDENZA *OHANNA5NO 6IA "ONIFACIO ,UPI WWWJOHANNAIT 'EN TEEL PLACE THAT FEELS VERY MUCH A hRESIDENCEv RATHER THAN A HOTEL HIDDEN AWAY IN THE SAME APARTMENT BUILDING AS THE 3WEDISH #ONSULATE IN A VERY QUIET LEAFY CORNER OF THE CITY lVE MINUTES WALK NORTH OF 3AN -ARCO RING THE BELL ON THE BRASS PLAQUE BY THE WROUGHT IRON GATES AND GO IN THE DOOR ON THE RIGHT HAND SIDE 2OOMS ARE COSY AND WELL KEPT AND THE TWO SIGNORE WHO RUN THE PLACE ARE AS FRIENDLY AND HELPFUL AS YOU COULD HOPE FOR 4HE VERY SIMILAR 2ESIDENZA *OHANNA$UE IS LOCATED A BIT FURTHER FROM THE MAIN SIGHTS AT 6IA #INQUE 'IORNATE TO THE NORTH OF THE &ORTEZZA DA "ASSO AND HAS PARKING SPACES 9OU NEED TO CHECK IN BEFORE PM ON THE lRST DAY TO PICK UP YOUR KEY .O CREDIT CARDS
2ESIDENZA *OHLEA5NO 6IA 3AN 'ALLO WWWJOHANNAIT !NOTHER VENTURE FROM THE PEOPLE WHO CREATED THE NEARBY 2ESIDENZA *OHANNA SEE ABOVE OFFERING THE SAME LOW COST HIGH COMFORT PACKAGE WITH THE SAME LEVEL OF HOSPITALITY BUT SLIGHTLY PLUSHER MORE SPACIOUS AND MORE EXPENSIVE n THOUGH ITS STILL OUTSTANDING VALUE BY &LORENTINE STANDARDS !T NEIGHBOURING 6IA 3AN 'ALLO YOULL lND *OHLEA$UE WHICH IN DESIGN ATMOSPHERE AND COST IS INDISTINGUISHABLE FROM 5NO 3OME ROOMS HAVE SHOWERS SOME BATHS !S WITH *OHANNA YOU MUST CHECK IN BY PM &URTHER DOWN AT NO IS YET ANOTHER RATHER SMARTER ESTABLISH MENT RUN BY THE SAME TEAM THE !NTICA $IMORA WWWANTICADIMORAlRENZEIT .O CREDIT CARDS
& , /2% .#%
ONE WITHOUT A BATHROOM BUT YOU HAVE TO BE IN BY THE AM CURFEW /N THE SECOND mOOR THERES THE TWELVE ROOM -ARINI + WHICH IS COMFORTABLE BUT BLAND AS IS THE SEVEN ROOM !RMONIA ONE mOOR DOWN AGAIN WHERE ROOMS GO FOR AROUND + /N THE GROUND AND lRST mOOR YOULL ALSO lND THE SLIGHTLY PRICIER TWO STAR !ZZI WWWHOTELAZZI IT WHICH HAS FRIENDLY STAFF AND GARDEN VIEWS FROM SOME OF ITS SIXTEEN ROOMS $OUBLES HERE GO FROM + WITH BATHROOM AND + LESS WITHOUT n
& , /2% .#%
\ !CCOMMODATION
/VER + ,OGGIATO DEI 3ERVITI 0IAZZA 3AN TISSIMA !NNUNZIATA WWWLOGGIATODEISERVITIHOTEL IT 4HIS ELEGANT EXTREMELY TASTEFUL AND WELL PRICED THREE STAR HOTEL IS SITUATED ON ONE OF &LORENCES MOST CELEBRATED SQUARES )TS ROOMS lVE IN THE NEW ANNEXE NEARBY HAVE BEEN STYLISHLY INCORPO RATED INTO A STRUCTURE DESIGNED IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY IN IMITATION OF THE "RUNELLESCHI HOSPITAL ACROSS THE SQUARE TO ACCOMMODATE THE 3ERVITE PRIESTS WHO WORKED THERE AND PROVIDE LODGINGS FOR ITINERANT 3ERVITES 4HEIR RELATIVE PLAINNESS REmECTS SOMETHING OF THE BUILDINGS HISTORY BUT ALL ARE DECORATED WITH lNE FABRICS AND ANTIQUES AND LOOK OUT EITHER ONTO THE PIAZZA OR PEACEFUL GARDENS TO THE REAR TOP mOOR ROOMS HAVE GLIMPSES OF THE $UOMO -ORANDI ALLA #ROCETTA 6IA ,AURA WWWHOTELMORANDI IT !N INTIMATE THREE STAR GEM WHOSE SMALL SIZE AND FRIENDLY WELCOME ENSURE A HOME FROM HOME ATMOSPHERE 2OOMS ARE TASTEFULLY DECORATED WITH ANTIQUES AND OLD PRINTS AND VIVID CARPETS LAID ON PARQUET mOORS 4WO ROOMS HAVE BALCONIES OPENING ONTO A MODEST GARDEN THE BEST ROOM n WITH FRESCO FRAGMENTS AND MEDIEVAL NOOKS AND CRANNIES n WAS CONVERTED FROM THE SITES FORMER CONVENT CHAPEL /RTO DE -EDICI 6IA 3AN 'ALLO WWWORTODEIMEDICIIT ! ROOM FRESCOED AND ANTIQUE FURNISHED THREE STAR OCCUPYING A QUIET PAL AZZO IN THE UNIVERSITY AREA 6IA 3AN 'ALLO IS NOT THE MOST ATTRACTIVE STREET IN &LORENCE BUT THE HOTEL HAS BEEN VERY RECENTLY AND IMPRESSIVELY REFURBISHED AND THERE IS A BREAKFAST TERRACE 3EE ITS WEBSITE FOR EXCELLENT OFFERS 2ESIDENZA #ASTIGLIONI 6IA DEL 'IGLIO WWW RESIDENZACASTIGLIONICOM 2UN BY THE SAME TEAM AS RUNS THE 4ORRE 'UELFA THIS IS A DISCREET AND HUGELY STYLISH HIDEAWAY THAT DOES NOT FEEL LIKE A HOTEL AT ALL *UST HALF A DOZEN SPACIOUS EN SUITE DOUBLE ROOMS THREE OF THEM FRESCOED ON THE SECOND mOOR OF A PALAZZO VERY CLOSE TO 3AN ,ORENZO CHURCH !LL CREDIT CARDS EXCEPT !MEX ACCEPTED
%AST OF THE CENTRE
5P TO + "AVARIA "ORGO DEGLI !LBIZI WWWEIDINETCOM HOTELBAVARIA ! SIMPLE AND DECENT ONE STAR NEAR THE CITY CENTRE SECOND mOOR NO LIFT WITH JUST NINE ROOMS INCLUDING SOME PALATIAL CHAMBERS ON THE UPPER mOOR AND A COUPLE OF INEXPENSIVE ROOMS WITH SHARED BATHROOM 4HE HOTEL OCCUPIES PART OF A SIXTEENTH CENTURY PALAZZO BUILT FOR A FOLLOWER
OF %LEONORA DI 4OLEDO "E SURE TO BOOK ESPECIALLY IN SUMMER WHEN ITS POPULAR WITH STUDENT TOUR GROUPS $ALI 6IA DELL /RIUOLO WWWHOTELDALICOM /NE OF THE LEAST EXPENSIVE ONE STAR OPTIONS CLOSE TO THE CENTRE 4HE NINE ROOMS THREE WITH BATH ARE PLAIN AND RATHER BASIC BUT THE LOCATION n ON THE TOP mOOR OF A PALAZZO BUILT IN n HELPS AS DOES THE VIEW FROM THE BACK ROOMS OF THE GIANT MAGNOLIA IN THE GARDEN BELOW 4HE FRIENDLY YOUNG OWNERS SPEAK GOOD %NGLISH /RCHIDEA "ORGO DEGLI !LBIZI WWWHOTELORCHIDEAmORENCEIT /N THE lRST mOOR OF A LOVELY TWELFTH CENTURY BUILDING WITH SEVEN BIG ROOMS INCLUDING THREE DOUBLES ONE WITH A SHOWER IN THE ROOM /VER + * * 6IA DI -EZZO WWW CAVALIEREHOTELSCOM 4HE BLAND EXTERIOR OF THIS FORMER lFTEENTH CENTURY CONVENT LOCATED VERY CLOSE TO 0IAZZA 3ANT!MBROGIO CONCEALS A ROMANTIC NINE TEEN ROOM FOUR STAR HOTEL 3OME ROOMS ARE VAST SPLIT LEVEL AFFAIRS n BUT ALL HAVE CHARM AND ARE FUR NISHED WITH MODERN lTTINGS ATTRACTIVE FABRICS AND A FEW ANTIQUES #OMMON AREAS ARE DECKED WITH mOWERS AND RETAIN FRESCOES AND VAULTED CEILINGS FROM THE ORIGINAL BUILDING )N SUMMER BREAKFAST IS SERVED IN THE CONVENTS LOVELY OLD CLOISTER $OUBLES FROM AROUND +
/LTRARNO +n !NNALENA 6IA 2OMANA WWWHOTELANNALENAIT 3ITUATED A SHORT WAY BEYOND 0ALAZZO 0ITTI AND RIGHT BY AN ENTRANCE TO THE "ØBOLI GARDENS THIS TWENTY ROOM THREE STAR ONCE OWNED BY THE -EDICI PASSED TO A YOUNG &LORENTINE NOBLEWOMAN !NNALENA WHO RETIRED FROM THE WORLD AFTER A DISASTROUS LOVE AFFAIR AND BEQUEATHED THE BUILDING TO THE $OMINICANS 4HE BEST ROOMS OPEN ONTO A GALLERY WITH GARDEN VIEWS AND A SPRINKLING OF ANTIQUES LEND A HINT OF OLD WORLD CHARM ,A 3CALETTA 6IA 'UICCIARDINI WWWLASCALETTACOM ! TWO STAR HOTEL UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT OFFERING ELEVEN AIR CONDITIONED ROOMS WITH TILED mOORS THREE OF THEM WITH VIEWS ACROSS TO THE "ØBOLI GARDENS $RINKS ARE SERVED ON THE ROOFTOP TERRACE WHERE YOU LOOK ACROSS THE "ØBOLI IN ONE DIRECTION AND THE CITY IN THE OTHER 3ILLA 6IA DE 2ENAI HOTEL SILLA TINIT ! THREE STAR PLACE OCCUPYING A lF TEENTH CENTURY PALAZZO BUILDING THAT HAS BEEN SOMEWHAT MASKED BY A S RElT BUT THE ROOMS ARE IN GOOD SHAPE AND REASONABLY SIZED
AND HAVE MARBLE lREPLACES BUT OTHER ROOMS ARE GRIM n SO MAKE SURE YOU INSPECT BEFORE PAYING ,OCATION IS A PLUS THE HOTEL IS ON 0IAZZA 3ANTA 3PIRITO ONE OF THE CITYS MORE HAPPENING SQUARES AND THE HOTELS LOGGIA WHICH RUNS ROUND TWO SIDES OF THE BUILDING GIVES YOU A GRANDSTAND VIEW
(OSTELS
)STITUTO 'OULD 6IA DEI 3ERRAGLI WWWISTITUTOGOULDIT /CCUPIES PART OF A FORMER SEVENTEENTH CENTURY PAL AZZO THE DOORBELL IS EASILY MISSED )TS BEDS ARE EXTREMELY POPULAR SO ITS WISE TO BOOK IN ADVANCE ESPECIALLY DURING THE ACADEMIC YEAR 3TREET FRONT ROOMS CAN BE NOISY REAR ROOMS ARE BETTER BUT THE OLD COURTYARD TERRACOTTA mOORS AND STONE STAIR CASES PROVIDE ATMOSPHERE THROUGHOUT /PEN FOR CHECK IN -ONn&RI AMnPM nPM 3AT AMnPM nPMn BUT CLOSED 3UN 3INGLES WITHWITHOUT PRIVATE BATHROOM + DOUBLES PER PERSON + TRIPLES + QUADS + .O CURFEW /STELLO !RCHI 2OSSI 6IA &AENZA R WWWHOSTELARCHIROSSICOM ! lVE MINUTE WALK FROM THE TRAIN STATION THIS PRIVATE LY OWNED HOSTEL IS SPOTLESSLY CLEAN AND DECORATED WITH GUESTS WALL PAINTINGS AND GRAFlTI )TS POPULAR n THE PLACES lLL UP QUICKLY n AND HAS A PLEASANT GARDEN AND TERRACE %VENING MEALS ARE AVAILABLE AT EXTRA COST SPACIOUS DINING ROOM WITH SATELLITE 46 AND lLMS SHOWN ON REQUEST 3INGLE ROOMS AROUND + $ORM BEDS +n DEPENDING ON SIZE OF DORM n BEDS AND WHETHER OR NOT THERES AN INTERNAL BATHROOM ALL PRICES INCLUDE BREAKFAST AND THIRTY MINUTES )NTERNET TIME $ISABLED ACCESS ROOMS AVAILABLE #URFEW AT AM FOR DORMS /STELLO 6ILLA #AMERATA 6IALE !UGUSTO 2IGHI n WWWOSTELLIONLINEORG !N () HOSTEL TUCKED AWAY IN A BEAUTIFUL PARK TO THE NORTHEAST OF THE CITY 4HIS IS ONE OF %UROPES MOST ATTRACTIVE HOSTELS A SIXTEENTH CENTURY HOUSE WITH FRESCOED CEILINGS FRONTED BY LEMON TREES IN TERRACOTTA POTS $OORS OPEN AT PM IF YOURE GOING TO ARRIVE LATER CALL AHEAD TO MAKE SURE THERES SPACE n BOOKINGS BY EMAIL OR FAX ONLY -ID NIGHT CURFEW 4HERE ARE DORM PLACES AND A FEW
FAMILY ROOMS "REAKFAST AND SHEETS ARE INCLUDED BUT THERE ARE NO KITCHEN FACILITIES OPTIONAL SUPPER COSTS ABOUT + &ILMS IN %NGLISH ARE SHOWN EVERY NIGHT $ORM BEDS + TWO THREE BED ROOMS + PER PERSON 4AKE BUS B FROM THE TRAIN STATION TAKES ABOUT MIN 0IO 8 n !RTIGIANELLI 6IA DEI 3ERRAGLI /NE OF THE CHEAPEST OPTIONS IN TOWN OFTEN BOOKED UP BY SCHOOL GROUPS $ONT BE PUT OFF BY THE HUGE PICTURE OF 0OPE 0IUS 8 AT THE TOP OF THE STEPS THE MANAGEMENT IS FRIENDLY AND THE ATMOSPHERE RELAXED 'ET THERE BY AM AS THE BEDS ARE QUICKLY TAKEN 3HOWERS ARE FREE "EDS IN DOUBLES TRIPLES QUADS AND QUINS COST AROUND + OR + WITH EN SUITE BATHROOMS MINIMUM STAY TWO NIGHTS MAXIMUM lVE /PEN ALL DAY THROUGHOUT THE YEAR MIDNIGHT CURFEW NO RESERVA TIONS BY PHONE 3ANTA -ONACA 6IA 3ANTA -ONACA WWWOSTELLOIT 0RIVATELY OWNED HOSTEL IN /LTRARNO CLOSE TO 3ANTA -ARIA DEL #ARMINE (AS BEDS ARRANGED IN A DOZEN DORMS WITH BETWEEN FOUR AND TWENTY BEDS +ITCHEN FACILITIES NO UTENSILS WASHING MACHINES FREE HOT SHOWERS AND A USEFUL NOTICEBOARD WITH INFORMATION ON LIFTS AND ONWARD TRAVEL )TS A lFTEEN MINUTE WALK FROM THE STATION OR TAKE BUS OR TO THE SECOND STOP AFTER THE BRIDGE #REDIT CARDS ACCEPTED /PEN FOR CHECK IN AMnPM AND PMnAM $ORM BEDS + #URFEW AM 3UORE /BLATE DELL!SSUNZIONE 6IA "ORGO 0INTI .OT FAR FROM THE $UOMO THIS CONVENT RUN HOSTEL IS OPEN TO BOTH MEN AND WOMEN AS LONG AS ROOMS ARE NOT REQUIRED BY THE NUNS OR THEIR VISITORS 4HERES NO BREAKFAST 3INGLES + DOUBLES + PER PERSON BOTH WITH PRIVATE BATHROOMS 4RIPLES AND QUADS ALSO AVAILABLE
\ !CCOMMODATION
&LORENCE HAS ONLY A HANDFUL OF HOSTELS AND THE BEST OF THESE IS SOME DISTANCE FROM THE CENTRE 4O HELP MATTERS A LITTLE THERE ARE A NUMBER OF PLACES RUN BY RELIGIOUS BODIES PLUS STUDENT INSTITUTIONS WHICH PROVIDE BEDS FOR NON NATIVES AT THE CITY UNIVERSITIES /UT OF TERM TIME *UNEn/CT SOME OF THESE PLACES ARE OPEN TO YOUNG TOURISTS AND A FEW EVEN HAVE ACCOMMODATION THROUGHOUT THE YEAR )N ADDITION TO THE HOUSES LISTED BELOW THERE ARE ALSO A NUMBER OF #ASE DELLO 3TUDENTE WHICH ARE RUN BY THE UNIVERSITY AUTHORITIES AND OCCASIONALLY MADE AVAILABLE TO VISITORS FOR LATEST INFORMATION ON THESE ASK AT THE TOURIST OFlCE
& , /2% .#%
n AND NINE HAVE A VIEW OVER A SMALL PARK AND ROAD TO THE RIVER "REAKFAST IS SERVED ON THE TERRACE IN SUMMER 3ORELLE "ANDINI 0IAZZA 3ANTO 3PIRITO 3OME OF THE TWELVE ROOMS IN THIS ONE STAR PENSIONE ARE VAST
3UORE /BLATE DELLO 3PIRITO 3ANTO 6IA .AZIONALE !LSO RUN BY NUNS THIS CLEAN AND PLEASANT HOSTEL A FEW STEPS FROM THE STATION IS OPEN TO WOMEN FAMILIES AND MARRIED COUPLES ONLY AND IS CLOSED TO THE PUBLIC
DURING SCHOOL TERMS $OUBLES TRIPLES AND QUADS ALL HAVE PRIVATE BATHROOM "REAKFAST INCLUDED AND THERES A MINIMUM STAY OF TWO NIGHTS $OUBLES AND TRIPLES COST + PER PERSON
& , /2% .#%
#AMPSITES
\ 4HE #ITY
4HE SITUATION FOR CAMPING ISNT VERY GOOD IN SUMMER YOURE ALMOST CERTAIN TO lND THAT THE ONLY AVAILABLE SPACES ARE AT THE !REA DI 3OSTA AN EMERGENCY ACCOMMODATION AREA SOMETIMES SET ASIDE BY THE CITY AUTHORITIES WHICH USUALLY AMOUNTS TO A PATCH OF GROUND SHELTERED BY A RUDIMENTARY ROOF WITH A SHOWER BLOCK ATTACHED #ONTACT THE TOURIST OFlCES FOR DETAILS IF ANY OF THE CURRENT LOCATION #AMPING -ICHELANGIOLO 6IALE -ICHELANGELO WWWECVACANZEIT ! PITCH SITE THATS ALWAYS CROWDED OWING TO ITS SUPERB HILLSIDE LOCATION IN AN OLIVE GROVE +ITCHEN FACILITIES AND WELL STOCKED IF EXPENSIVE SHOP NEARBY 4AKE BUS FROM THE STATION !PRILn/CT #AMPING 0ANORAMICO 6IA 0ERAMONDO &IESOLE WWWmORENCECAMPINGCOM
,OCATED IN &IESOLE A lFTEEN MINUTE RIDE ON BUS FROM &LORENCE TRAIN STATION THIS PITCH SITE HAS A BAR RESTAURANT POOL AND SMALL SUPERMARKET 6ILLA #AMERATA 6IALE !UGUSTO 2IGHI n WWWOSTELLIONLINEORG "ASIC PITCH SITE IN THE GROUNDS OF THE 6ILLA #AMERATA () HOSTEL
4HE #ITY
'REATER &LORENCE NOW SPREADS SEVERAL KILOMETRES DOWN THE !RNO VALLEY AND UP ONTO THE HILLS NORTH AND SOUTH OF THE CITY BUT THE MAJOR SIGHTS ARE CONTAINED WITHIN AN AREA THAT CAN BE CROSSED ON FOOT IN LITTLE OVER HALF AN HOUR ! SHORT WALK FROM THE TRAIN STATION BRINGS YOU TO THE "APTISTERY $UOMO AND THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO THE AREA SOUTH FROM HERE TO 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA n SITE OF THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO AND THE 5FlZI GALLERY n IS THE INNER CORE INTO WHICH MOST OF THE TOURISTS ARE PACKED ! SQUARE DRAWN SO THAT THE $UOMO AND 5FlZI STOOD IN THE CENTRE OF OPPOSITE SIDES WOULD COVER MANY OF THE BEST PRESERVED OF &LORENCES MEDIEVAL STREETS AND THE MAJORITY OF ITS FASHION ABLE STREETS )MMEDIATELY NORTH OF THE $UOMO IS THE 3AN ,ORENZO QUARTER WHERE MARKET STALLS SURROUND ONE OF THE CITYS lRST RANK CHURCHES IN EFFECT THE CHAPEL OF THE -EDICI DYNASTY 7ITHIN A SHORT RADIUS OF HERE ARE THE MONASTERY OF 3AN -ARCO WITH ITS PAINTINGS BY &RA !NGELICO THE !CCADEMIA RESIDENCE OF -ICHELANGELOS $AVID AND 0IAZZA 3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATA &LORENCES MOST ATTRACTIVE SQUARE 4HE 5FlZI BACKS ONTO THE !RNO 2IVER ACROSS WHICH LIES THE DISTRICT KNOWN AS THE /LTRARNO WHERE THE 0ALAZZO 0ITTI AND -ASACCIOS CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA DEL #ARMINE EXERT THE STRONGEST PULL FOLLOWED BY THE CHURCHES OF 3ANTO 3PIRITO AND THE COLOURFUL 3AN -INIATO AL -ONTE
&LORENCE MUSEUM ADMISSION
\
& , /2% .#% 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO
!LL OF &LORENCES STATE RUN MUSEUMS BELONG TO AN ASSOCIATION CALLED &IRENZE -USEI WWWlRENZEMUSEIIT WHICH SETS ASIDE A DAILY QUOTA OF TICKETS THAT CAN BE RESERVED IN ADVANCE 4HE 5FlZI THE !CCADEMIA AND THE "ARGELLO BELONG TO THIS GROUP AS DO THE 0ALAZZO 0ITTI MUSEUMS THE "ØBOLI GARDEN THE -EDICI CHAPELS IN 3AN ,ORENZO THE ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM AND THE 3AN -ARCO MUSEUM &OR THE lRST TRIO YOU SHOULD CERTAINLY CONSIDER MAKING USE OF THIS FACILITY BECAUSE IN HIGH SEASON THE QUEUES FOR TICKETS ON THE DOOR CAN BE ENORMOUS &OR THE 5FlZI YOU CAN RESERVE TICKETS AT THE RECEPTION AREA OR USE THE TELEPHONE BOOKING LINE WHICH CURRENTLY IS THE ONLY OUTLET FOR RESERVED TICKETS FOR THE OTHER MUSEUMS IN THE &IRENZE -USEI SCHEME 9OU CALL -ONn&RI AMn PM 3AT AMnPM AND AN %NGLISH SPEAKING OPERATOR ALLOCATES YOU A TICKET WITH A + BOOKING FEE FOR A SPECIlC HOUR THE TICKET IS COLLECTED AT THE MUSEUM AGAIN AT A SPECIlC TIME SHORTLY BEFORE ENTRY 4HATS THE THEORY BUT IN REALITY THE PHONE LINE TENDS TO BE ENGAGED FOR LONG PERIODS AT A STRETCH SO PERSEVERANCE IS NEARLY ALWAYS REQUIRED !ND IF YOURE GOING TO PRE BOOK A VISIT YOU SHOULD DO IT AS SOON AS POSSIBLE BECAUSE THE ALLOCATION OF RESERVABLE TICKETS IS OFTEN SOLD OUT MANY DAYS AHEAD &OR MORE DETAILS ON THE 5FlZI SEE P .OTE THAT ON THE DOOR ADMISSION TO ALL STATE RUN MUSEUMS IS FREE FOR %5 CITIZENS UNDER AND OVER ON PRESENTATION OF A PASSPORT AND THAT NEARLY ALL OF &LORENCES MAJOR MUSEUMS ARE ROUTINELY CLOSED ON -ONDAY THOUGH SOME ARE OPEN FOR A COUPLE OF -ONDAYS EACH MONTH )N THE MAJORITY OF CASES MUSEUM TICKET OFlCES CLOSE THIRTY MINUTES BEFORE THE MUSEUM ITSELF !T THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO AND -USEO 3TIBBERT HOW EVER ITS ONE HOUR BEFORE WHILE AT THE 5FlZI "ARGELLO -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO THE DOME OF THE $UOMO THE #AMPANILE AND 0ITTI MUSEUMS ITS MINUTES
#LOSE TO THE EASTERN SIDE OF 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO STANDS THE "ARGELLO THE MAIN MUSEUM OF SCULPTURE FARTHER EAST THE AREA AROUND THE &RANCISCAN CHURCH OF 3ANTA #ROCE FORMS A NUCLEUS OF ACTIVITY /N THE WESTERN SIDE OF THE CITY DIRECTLY OPPOSITE THE TRAIN STATION THE UNMISSABLE ATTRACTION IS 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA &LORENTINE BASE OF THE RIVAL $OMINICAN ORDER
0IAZZA DEL $UOMO &ROM THE TRAIN STATION ALL lRST TIME VISITORS GRAVITATE TOWARDS 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO BECKONED BY THE PINNACLE OF "RUNELLESCHIS DOME WHICH LORDS IT OVER THE CITYSCAPE WITH AN AUTHORITY UNMATCHED BY ANY ARCHITECTURAL CREATION IN ANY OTHER )TALIAN CITY 9ET EVEN THOUGH THE MAGNITUDE OF THE $UOMO IS APPARENT FROM A DISTANCE lRST SIGHT OF THE CHURCH AND THE ADJACENT "APTISTERY STILL COMES AS A JOLT THEIR COLOURFUL PATTERNED EXTERIORS MAKING A STARTLING CONTRAST WITH THE DUN TONED BUILDINGS AROUND %ACH OF THESE GREAT BUILDINGS IS AS REMARKABLE INSIDE AS OUT AND AN ASCENT OF THE CATHEDRALS DOME WILL GIVE YOU ASTOUNDING VIEWS OVER THE CITY TO THE HAZY 4USCAN HILLS BEYOND !FTER EXPLORING THE CATHEDRAL YOU CAN ESCAPE THE CROWDS BY CLIMBING THE #AMPANILE THE $UOMOS DETACHED BELL TOWER OR VISIT THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO A REPOSITORY FOR WORKS OF ART REMOVED OVER THE CENTURIES FROM THE $UOMO "APTISTERY AND #AMPANILE 7ITH PIECES BY $ONATELLO -ICHELANGELO AND MANY OTHERS ITS THE CITYS SECOND RANKING SCULPTURE COLLECTION AFTER THE "ARGELLO
& , /2% .#%
\ 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO 5 4HE "APTISTERY AND $UOMO
4HE $UOMO
3OME TIME IN THE SEVENTH CENTURY THE SEAT OF THE "ISHOP OF &LORENCE WAS TRANS FERRED FROM 3AN ,ORENZO TO 3ANTA 2EPARATA A SIXTH CENTURY CHURCH WHICH STOOD ON THE SITE OF THE PRESENT DAY $UOMO OR 3ANTA -ARIA DEL &IORE -ONn7ED &RI AMnPM 4HURS CLOSES PM 3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM ON ST 3AT OF MONTH CLOSES PM FREE ,ATER GENERATIONS MODIlED THIS OLDER CHURCH UNTIL WHEN &LORENCES RULING PRIORATE WAS STUNG INTO ACTION BY THE MAGNIlCENCE OF NEWLY COMMISSIONED CATHEDRALS IN 0ISA AND 3IENA 4HEIR OWN
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\ 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO
4HE 0AZZI #ONSPIRACY PERHAPS THE MOST COMPELLING OF ALL &LORENCES MURKIER ACTS OF TREACHERY HAD ITS ROOTS IN THE ELECTION IN OF 3IXTUS )6 A POPE WHO DISTRIBUTED MONEY AND FAVOURS WITH A LARGESSE REMARKABLE EVEN BY PAPAL STANDARDS 3IX OF HIS NEPHEWS WERE MADE CARDINALS ONE OF THEM THE UNCOUTH 'IROLAMO 2IARIO COMING IN FOR PARTICULARLY PREFERENTIAL TREATMENT PROBABLY BECAUSE HE WAS 3IXTUSS SON 3IXTUSS PLAN WAS THAT 2IARIO SHOULD TAKE OVER THE TOWN OF )MOLA AS A BASE FOR PAPAL EXPANSION AND ACCORDINGLY HE APPROACHED ,ORENZO DE -EDICI FOR THE NECESSARY LOAN !WARE THAT )MOLA WAS TOO CLOSE TO -ILAN AND "OLOGNA TO BE ALLOWED TO FALL INTO PAPAL HANDS ,ORENZO REBUFFED THE POPE DESPITE THE IMPORTANCE OF THE 6ATICAN ACCOUNT WITH THE -EDICI BANK AND THE FAMILYS ROLE AS AGENTS FOR THE PAPACYS ALUM MINES IN 4USCANY ALUM WAS A VITAL PART OF THE DYEING INDUSTRY AND THEREFORE ESSENTIAL TO &LORENCES TEXTILE TRADE %NRAGED BY THE SNUB AND BY ,ORENZOS REFUSAL TO RECOGNIZE &RANCESCO 3ALVIATI AS ARCHBISHOP OF 0ISA 3IXTUS HAD IGNORED AN AGREEMENT BY WHICH APPOINTMENTS WITHIN THE &LORENTINE DOMAIN COULD ONLY BE MADE BY MUTUAL AGREEMENT 3IXTUS TURNED TO THE 0AZZI THE -EDICIS LEADING &LORENTINE RIVALS AS BANKERS IN 2OME 4HREE CO CONSPIRATORS MET IN 2OME IN THE EARLY MONTHS OF 2IARIO NOW IN POSSESSION OF )MOLA BUT EAGER FOR GREATER SPOILS 3ALVIATI INCANDESCENT AT ,ORENZOS VETO AND DESPERATE TO BECOME ARCHBISHOP OF &LORENCE AND &RANCESCO DE 0AZZI HEAD OF THE 0AZZIS 2OME OPERATION AND DETERMINED TO USURP -EDICI POWER IN &LOR ENCE !NY PLOT HOWEVER REQUIRED MILITARY MUSCLE AND THE MAN CHOSEN TO PROVIDE IT A PLAIN SPEAKING MERCENARY CALLED -ONTESECCO PROVED INTENSELY WARY OF THE WHOLE ENTERPRISE h"EWARE OF WHAT YOU DO v HE COUNSELLED h&LORENCE IS A BIG AFFAIRv )N THE END HE MADE HIS CO OPERATION CONDITIONAL ON PAPAL BLESSING A BENEDICTION THAT WAS READILY OBTAINED h) DO NOT WISH THE DEATH OF ANYONE ON ANY ACCOUNT v WAS 3IXTUSS MEALY MOUTHED OBSERVATION hSINCE IT DOES NOT ACCORD WITH OUR OFlCE TO CONSENT TO SUCH A THINGv n YET HE KNEW FULL WELL ,ORENZOS DEATH WAS ESSENTIAL IF THE PLOT WAS TO SUCCEED h'O AND DO WHAT YOU WISH v HE ADDED hPROVIDED THERE BE NO KILLINGv *ACOPO DE 0AZZI THE 0AZZIS WIZENED GODFATHER WAS ALSO WON OVER BY 3IXTUSS DISINGENUOUS SUPPORT DESPITE BEING ON GOOD TERMS WITH THE -EDICI n INDEED ONE OF HIS NEPHEWS WAS MARRIED TO ,ORENZOS SISTER
CATHEDRAL THEY LAMENTED WAS TOO hCRUDELY BUILT AND TOO SMALL FOR SUCH A CITYv ! SUITABLY IMMODEST PLAN TO REMEDY THIS SHORTCOMING WAS ORDERED FROM !RNOLFO DI #AMBIO WHO DRAFTED A SCHEME TO CREATE THE LARGEST CHURCH IN THE 2OMAN #ATHOLIC WORLD AND hSURPASS ANYTHING OF ITS KIND PRODUCED BY THE 'REEKS AND 2OMANS IN THE TIMES OF THEIR GREATEST POWERv 0ROGRESS ON THE PROJECT FALTERED AFTER !RNOLFOS DEATH IN BUT BY &RANCESCO 4ALENTI AND A STRING OF MOSTLY JOBBING ARCHITECTS HAD BROUGHT THE NAVE TO COMPLETION "Y THE TRIBUNES APSES AND THE DOMES SUPPORTING DRUM WERE ALSO COMPLETED /NLY THE DOME ITSELF n NO SMALL MATTER n REMAINED UNlNISHED SEE P 4HE EXTERIOR
0ARTS OF THE $UOMOS EXTERIOR DATE BACK TO !RNOLFOS ERA BUT MOST OF THE OVERBLOWN AND PERNICKETY MAIN FACADE IS A NINETEENTH CENTURY SIMULACRUM OF A 'OTHIC FRONT 4HE ORIGINAL FACADE WHICH WAS NEVER MORE THAN QUARTER lNISHED WAS PULLED DOWN IN ON THE ORDERS OF &ERDINAND ) ! COMPETITION TO PRODUCE A NEW FRONT PROVED FRUITLESS AND FOR THREE CENTURIES THE CATHEDRAL REMAINED FACELESS !FTER &LORENCE BECAME CAPITAL OF THE NEWLY UNIlED )TALY IN HOWEVER NO FEWER THAN PLANS WERE SUBMITTED 4HE WINNING ENTRY BY THE OTHERWISE OBSCURE %MILIO DE &ABRIS WAS COMPLETED IN 4O ITS CREDIT THE NEW FRONTAGE AT LEAST RETAINED THE ORIGINAL COLOUR SCHEME AND MATERIALS
\
& , /2% .#% 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO
!FTER NUMEROUS FALSE STARTS IT WAS DECIDED TO MURDER ,ORENZO AND 'IULIANO WHILST THEY ATTENDED -ASS IN THE CATHEDRAL 4HE DATE SET WAS 3UNDAY !PRIL -ON TESECCO HOWEVER NOW REFUSED hTO ADD SACRILEGE TO MURDERv SO ,ORENZOS MURDER WAS DELEGATED TO TWO EMBITTERED PRIESTS -AFFEI AND "AGNONE WHEREAS 'IULIANO WAS TO BE DISPATCHED BY &RANCESCO DE 0AZZI AND "ERNARDO "ARONCELLI A VIOLENT 0AZZI SIDEKICK DEEPLY IN DEBT TO THE FAMILY 3ALVIATI MEANWHILE ACCOMPANIED BY AN ARMED TROOP WAS TO SEIZE CONTROL OF THE 0ALAZZO DELLA 3IGNORIA )T ALL WENT HORRIBLY WRONG 'IULIANO WAS KILLED IN A CRAZED FRENZY HIS SKULL SHATTERED AND HIS BODY RENT WITH NINETEEN STAB WOUNDS BUT ,ORENZO MANAGED TO ESCAPE mEE ING WOUNDED TO THE $UOMOS NEW SACRISTY WHERE HE AND HIS SUPPORTERS BARRICADED THEMSELVES BEHIND ITS HEAVY BRONZE DOORS !CROSS THE CITY 3ALVIATI WAS SEPARATED FROM HIS TROOPS THANKS TO NEWLY INSTALLED SECRET DOORS AND LOCKS IN THE 0ALAZZO DELLA 3IGNORIA AND ARRESTED BY THE 'ONFALONIERE #ESARE 0ETRUCCI !PPRISED OF THE PLOT A FURIOUS MOB DISPENSED SUMMARY JUSTICE TO SEVERAL OF THE CONSPIRATORS 3ALVIATIS TROOPS WERE MASSACRED TO A MAN WHILST 3ALVIATI AND &RANC ESCO DE 0AZZI WERE HANGED FROM A WINDOW OF THE 0ALAZZO DELLA 3IGNORIA /F THE LAT TER EXECUTION 0OLIZIANO THE EMINENT HUMANIST NOTED THAT hAS THE ARCHBISHOP ROLLED AND STRUGGLED AT THE END OF HIS ROPE HIS EYES GOGGLING IN HIS HEAD HE lXED HIS TEETH INTO &RANCESCO DE 0AZZIS NAKED BODYv -AFFEI AND "AGNONE THE BUNGLING PRIESTS WERE CASTRATED AND HANGED "ARONCELLI ESCAPED TO #ONSTANTINOPLE BUT WAS EXTRADITED AND EXECUTED -ONTESECCO WAS TORTURED BUT GIVEN A SOLDIERS EXECUTION IN THE "ARGELLO *ACOPOS END WAS THE MOST SORDID (AVING ESCAPED &LORENCE HE WAS RECAPTURED TORTURED STRIPPED NAKED AND HANGED ALONGSIDE THE DECOMPOSING 3ALVIATI (E WAS THEN BURIED IN 3ANTA #ROCE BUT EXHUMED BY THE MOB WHO BLAMED HEAVY RAINS ON HIS EVIL SPIRIT (IS CORPSE WAS DRAGGED THROUGH THE STREETS TIPPED IN A DITCH AND lNALLY PROPPED UP OUTSIDE THE 0AZZI PALACE WHERE HIS ROTTING HEAD WAS USED AS DOOR KNOCKER %VENTUALLY THE PUTREFYING BODY WAS THROWN IN THE !RNO lSHED OUT mOGGED AND HANGED AGAIN BY A GANG OF CHILDREN AND lNALLY CAST BACK INTO THE RIVER
WITH MARBLE QUARRIED FROM THREE DIFFERENT SOURCES WHITE FROM #ARRARA RED FROM THE -AREMMA AND GREEN FROM 0RATO 4HE CATHEDRALS SOUTH RIGHT SIDE IS THE OLDEST PART OF THE EXTERIOR n BOTH ITS SIDE PORTALS DESERVE A GLANCE n BUT THE MOST ATTRACTIVE ADORNMENT IS THE 0ORTA DELLA -ANDORLA NUMBER ON OUR PLAN ON THE OTHER SIDE 4HIS TAKES ITS NAME FROM THE ALMOND SHAPED FRAME OR MANDORLA THAT CONTAINS THE GRIME STREAKED RELIEF OF 4HE !SSUMPTION OF THE 6IRGIN n SCULPTED BY .ANNI DI "ANCO THE LUNETTE FEATURES A MOSAIC OF THE !NNUNCIATION TO A DESIGN BY 'HIRLANDAIO 4HE TWO HEADS IN PROlLE EITHER SIDE OF THE GABLE MAY BE EARLY WORKS BY $ONATELLO 4HE INTERIOR
4HE $UOMOS INTERIOR IS THE CONVERSE OF THE EXTERIOR n A VAST UNCLUTTERED ENCLOSURE OF BARE MASONRY )TS AMBIENCE IS MORE THAT OF A GREAT ASSEMBLY HALL THAN A DEVOTIONAL BUILDING AND YET ITS APPARENTLY BARREN WALLS HOLD A FAR GREATER ACCUMULATION OF TREASURES THAN AT lRST APPEARS 4HE MOST CONSPICUOUS DECORATIONS ARE A PAIR OF MEMORIALS TO CONDOTTIERI MERCENARY COMMANDERS 0AOLO 5CCELLOS MONUMENT TO 3IR *OHN (AWK WOOD CREATED IN IS OFTEN CITED AS THE EPITOME OF &LORENTINE MEAN SPIRITEDNESS ACCORDING TO LOCAL FOLKLORE n UNSUPPORTED BY ANY EVIDENCE n THE
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MERCENARY CAPTAIN OF &LORENCES ARMY WAS PROMISED A PROPER EQUESTRIAN STATUE AS HIS MEMORIAL THEN WAS POSTHUMOUSLY FOBBED OFF WITH THIS TROMPE LOEIL VERSION 0ERHAPS THE SLIGHT WAS DESERVED "EFORE BEING EMPLOYED BY &LORENCE (AWKWOOD AND HIS 7HITE #OMPANY HAD MARAUDED THEIR WAY THROUGH 4US CANY HOLDING ENTIRE CITIES TO RANSOM UNDER THREAT OF RANSACK ,OOK BACK AT THE ENTRANCE WALL AND YOULL SEE ANOTHER 5CCELLO CONTRIBUTION TO THE INTERIOR n A CLOCK ADORNED WITH FOUR RATHER ABSTRACTED %VANGELISTS )T USES THE OLD HORA ITALICA COMMON IN )TALY UNTIL THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY WHEN THE TH HOUR OF THE DAY ENDED AT SUNSET !NDREA DEL #ASTAGNOS MONUMENT TO .ICCOLÛ DA 4OLENTINO CREATED TWENTY YEARS LATER IS CLEARLY DERIVED FROM 5CCELLOS FRESCO BUT HAS AN AGGRES SIVE EDGE THATS TYPICAL OF THIS ARTIST *UST BEYOND THE HORSEMEN $OMENICO DI -ICHELINOS WORK $ANTE %XPLAINING THE $IVINE #OMEDY GIVES "RUNEL LESCHIS DOME n THEN ONLY NEARING COMPLETION n A PLACE SCARCELY LESS PROMINENT THAN THE MOUNTAIN OF 0URGATORY $ANTE STANDS OUTSIDE THE WALLS A SYMBOL OF HIS EXILE FROM &LORENCE *UDGED BY MERE SIZE THE MAJOR WORK OF ART IN THE $UOMO IS THE n FRESCO OF 4HE ,AST *UDGEMENT WHICH lLLS MUCH OF THE INTERIOR OF THE DOME !T THE TIME OF ITS EXECUTION HOWEVER A SUBSTANTIAL BODY OF OPINION THOUGHT 6ASARI AND :UCCARIS COMBINED EFFORT DID NOTHING BUT DEFACE "RUNEL LESCHIS MASTERPIECE AND QUITE A FEW PEOPLE TODAY ARE OF THE SAME OPINION "ARRIERS USUALLY PREVENT YOU FROM GETTING CLOSE TO THE HIGH ALTAR SO YOU MIGHT NOT BE ABLE TO LOOK INTO THE 3AGRESTIA .UOVA WHERE THE LAVISH PANELLING IS INLAID WITH BEAUTIFUL INTARSIA WORK n BY "ENEDETTO AND 'IULIANO -AIANO NOTABLY A DELICATE !NNUNCIATION IN THE CENTRE OF THE WALL FACING THE DOOR 4HE RELIEF OF THE 2ESURRECTION ABOVE THE ENTRANCE IS BY ,UCA DELLA 2OBBIA HIS lRST IMPORTANT COMMISSION IN THE ENAMELLED TER RACOTTA FOR WHICH HE BECAME FAMOUS 4HE STUNNING SACRISTY DOOR n CREATED IN CONJUNCTION WITH -ICHELOZZO WAS HIS ONLY WORK IN BRONZE )T WAS IN THIS SACRISTY THAT ,ORENZO DE -EDICI TOOK REFUGE IN AFTER HIS BROTHER 'IULIANO HAD BEEN MORTALLY STABBED ON THE ALTAR STEPS BY THE 0AZZI CONSPIRA TORS SEE P THE BULK OF DELLA 2OBBIAS RECENTLY INSTALLED DOORS PROTECTED HIM FROM HIS WOULD BE ASSASSINS 3MALL PORTRAITS ON THE HANDLES COMMEMORATE THE BROTHERS !CROSS THE WAY DELLA 2OBBIAS !SCENSION CAN BE SEEN ABOVE THE DOOR OF THE 3AGRESTIA 6ECCHIA IT WAS ONCE ACCOMPANIED BY $ONATELLOS SUBLIME CANTORIA OR CHOIR LOFT NOW IN THE -USEO DELL/PERA ,UCA DELLA 2OBBIAS EQUALLY MESMERIC CANTORIA IN THE SAME MUSEUM OCCUPIED A MATCHING POSITION ABOVE THE 3AGRESTIA .UOVA 3ANTA 2EPARATA
)N THE S REMNANTS OF THE $UOMOS PREDECESSOR 3ANTA 2EPARATA WERE UNCOVERED UNDERNEATH THE WEST END OF THE NAVE WHERE A m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
"RUNELLESCHIS DOME
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WITHOUT PAYING THROUGH A GRILLE TO THE LEFT AT THE FOOT OF THE STEPS BUT THE ARCHITECT DOES AT LEAST HAVE THE HONOUR OF BEING ONE OF THE VERY FEW &LORENTINES TO BE BURIED IN THE $UOMO ITSELF
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3INCE !RNOLFO DI #AMBIOS SCALE MODEL OF THE $UOMO COLLAPSED UNDER ITS OWN WEIGHT SOME TIME IN THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY NOBODY HAS BEEN SURE QUITE HOW HE INTENDED TO CROWN HIS ACHIEVEMENT )N .ERI DI &IORAVENTI PROPOSED THE CONSTRUCTION OF A MAGNIlCENT CUPOLA DOME THAT WAS TO SPAN NEARLY M BROADER THAN THE DOME OF 2OMES 0ANTHEON WHICH HAD REMAINED THE WORLDS LARGEST FOR YEARS AND RISE FROM A BASE SOME M ABOVE THE mOOR OF THE NAVE n TALLER THAN THE HIGHEST VAULTING OF ANY 'OTHIC CATHEDRAL *UST AS RADICAL WAS &IORAVENTIS DECISION TO DISPENSE WITH mYING BUTTRESSES REGARDED AS UGLY VESTIGES OF THE 'OTHIC BARBARISM OF ENEMY STATES SUCH AS &RANCE AND -ILAN 4HERE WAS JUST ONE PROBLEM NOBODY HAD WORKED OUT HOW TO BUILD THE THING -EDIE VAL ARCHES WERE USUALLY BUILT ON WOODEN hCENTRINGv A NETWORK OF TIMBERS THAT HELD THE STONE IN PLACE UNTIL THE MORTAR WAS SET )N THE CASE OF THE $UOMO THE WEIGHT OF THE STONE WOULD HAVE BEEN TOO GREAT FOR THE TIMBER THE ENTIRE DOME IS THOUGHT TO WEIGH SOME TONNES AND THE SPACE TO BE SPANNED WAS TOO GREAT FOR THE MEASURING CORDS THAT WOULD BE NEEDED TO GUIDE THE MASONS n ANY CORD STRUNG ACROSS THE CHURCH WOULD SAG AND STRETCH TOO MUCH FOR ACCURACY ! COMMITTEE OF THE MASONS GUILD WAS SET UP TO SOLVE THE DILEMMA /NE IDEA WAS TO BUILD THE DOME FROM PUMICE !NOTHER ACCORDING TO 6ASARI WAS TO SUPPORT THE DOME ON A VAST MOUND OF EARTH THAT WOULD BE SEEDED WITH THOUSANDS OF COINS WHEN THE DOME WAS lNISHED THE MOUND WOULD BE CLEARED BY INVITING &LORENCES CITIZENS TO EXCAVATE THE MONEY !FTER YEARS OF BICKERING THE PROJECT WAS THROWN OPEN TO COMPETITION ! GOLDSMITH AND CLOCKMAKER CALLED &ILIPPO "RUNELLESCHI PRESENTED THE WINNING SCHEME DEFEAT ING 'HIBERTI IN THE PROCESS n REVENGE OF SORTS FOR 'HIBERTIS TRIUMPH SEVENTEEN YEARS EARLIER IN THE COMPETITION TO DESIGN THE "APTISTERY DOORS SEE P $OOM MONGERS 'HIBERTI AMONG THEM CRITICIZED "RUNELLESCHI AT EVERY TURN EVENTUALLY FORCING THE AUTHORITIES TO EMPLOY BOTH RIVALS !N EXASPERATED "RUNELLESCHI FEIGNED ILLNESS AND RESIGNED 'HIBERTI LEFT TO HIS OWN DEVICES FOUND HIMSELF BAFmED AND IN "RUNEL LESCHI WAS INVITED TO BECOME THE DOMES SOLE hINVENTOR AND CHIEF DIRECTORv 4HE KEY TO "RUNELLESCHIS SUCCESS LAY IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE DOME AS TWO MASONRY SHELLS EACH BUILT AS A STACK OF EVER DIMINISHING RINGS 3ECURED WITH HIDDEN STONE BEAMS AND ENORMOUS IRON CHAINS THESE CONCENTRIC CIRCLES FORMED A LATTICE THAT WAS lLLED WITH LIGHTWEIGHT BRICKS LAID IN A HERRINGBONE PATTERN THAT PREVENTED THE HIGHER SECTIONS FROM FALLING INWARD "RUNELLESCHIS RELENTLESS INVENTIVENESS EXTENDED TO A NEW HOIST WITH A REVERSE GEAR A NEW TYPE OF CRANE AND EVEN A BOAT FOR TRANSPORT ING MARBLE THAT WAS SO UNGAINLY IT WAS NICKNAMED )L "ADALONE THE -ONSTER 4HE DOMES COMPLETION WAS MARKED BY THE CONSECRATION OF THE CATHEDRAL ON -ARCH n !NNUNCIATION $AY AND THE &LORENTINE .EW 9EAR n IN A CEREMONY CONDUCTED BY THE POPE %VEN THEN THE TOPMOST PIECE THE LANTERN REMAINED UNlN ISHED WITH MANY PEOPLE CONVINCED THE DOME COULD SUPPORT NO FURTHER WEIGHT "UT ONCE AGAIN "RUNELLESCHI WON THE DAY BEGINNING WORK ON THE DOMES lNAL STAGE IN JUST A FEW MONTHS BEFORE HIS DEATH 4HE WHOLE THING WAS lNALLY COMPLETED IN THE LATE S WHEN THE CROSS AND GILDED BALL BOTH CAST BY 6ERROCCHIO WERE HOISTED INTO PLACE 4ODAY IT IS STILL THE LARGEST MASONRY DOME IN THE WORLD /NLY THE GALLERY AROUND THE BASE REMAINS INCOMPLETE n ABANDONED WITH JUST ONE FACE lNISHED AFTER -ICHELANGELO COMPARED IT TO hCAGES FOR CRICKETSv 4HIS CRITICISM ASIDE -ICHELANGELO WAS AWE STRUCK GAZING ON THE CUPOLA HE IS SUPPOSED TO HAVE SAID #OME TE NON VOGLIO MEGLIO DI TE NON POSSO h3IMILAR TO YOU ) WILL NOT BETTER THAN YOU ) CANNOTv
4HE DOME
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#LIMBING THE DOME -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM ST 3AT OF MONTH CLOSES PM + IS AN AMAZING EXPERIENCE BOTH FOR THE VIEWS FROM THE TOP AND FOR THE INSIGHTS IT OFFERS INTO "RUNELLESCHIS ENGINEERING GENIUS SEE BOX OVERLEAF "E PREPARED FOR THE QUEUE THAT USUALLY STRETCHES FROM THE ENTRANCE ON THE NORTH mANK OF THE NAVE IT DOES HOWEVER MOVE FAIRLY BRISKLY !LSO BE READY FOR THE LUNG BUSTING STEPS #LAUSTROPHOBICS SHOULD NOTE THAT THE CLIMB INVOLVES SOME VERY CONlNED SPACES !FTER AN INITIAL ASCENT YOU EMERGE ONTO A NARROW GALLERY THAT RUNS AROUND THE INTERIOR OF THE DOME WITH A DIZZYING VIEW DOWN ONTO THE MAZE PATTERNED PAVEMENT OF THE NAVE )TS ALSO THE BEST VANTAGE POINT FROM WHICH TO INSPECT THE SEVEN STAINED GLASS ROUNDELS DESIGNED BY 5CCELLO 'HIBERTI #ASTAGNO AND $ONATELLO BELOW 6ASARIS ,AST *UDGEMENT FRESCO "EYOND THE GALLERY YOU ENTER THE MORE CRAMPED CONlNES OF THE DOME ITSELF !S YOU CLAMBER UP BETWEEN THE INNER AND OUTER SHELLS YOU CAN OBSERVE MANY INGENIOUS FEATURES OF "RUNELLE SCHIS CONSTRUCTION THE RIBS AND ARCHES THE HERRINGBONE BRICKWORK THE WOODEN STRUTS THAT SUPPORT THE OUTER SHELL n EVEN THE HOOKS AND HOLES LEFT FOR FUTURE GENERATIONS OF REPAIRERS &ROM THE BASE OF THE WHITE MARBLE LANTERN THAT CROWNS THE DOME THE VIEWS ACROSS THE CITY ARE BREATHTAKING 4HE #AMPANILE
4HE #AMPANILE DAILY AMnPM + n THE CATHEDRALS BELL TOWER n WAS BEGUN IN BY 'IOTTO DURING HIS PERIOD AS OFlCIAL CITY ARCHITECT AND CAPO MAESTRO HEAD OF WORKS IN CHARGE OF THE $UOMO "Y THE TIME OF HIS DEATH THREE YEARS LATER THE BASE THE lRST OF lVE EVENTUAL LEVELS HAD BEEN COMPLETED !NDREA 0ISANO FRESH FROM CREATING THE "APTISTERYS SOUTH DOORS CONTINUED CONSTRUCTION OF THE SECOND STOREY n PROBABLY IN ACCORDANCE WITH 'IOTTOS PLANS 7ORK WAS ROUNDED OFF BY &RANCESCO 4ALENTI WHO RECTIlED DElCIENCIES IN 'IOT TOS ORIGINAL CALCULATIONS IN THE PROCESS THE BASES ORIGINAL WALLS TEETERED ON THE BRINK OF COLLAPSE UNTIL HE DOUBLED THEIR THICKNESS 7HEN COMPLETED THE BELL TOWER REACHED M WELL OVER THE LIMIT SET BY THE CITY IN FOR CIVIC TOWERS THE BUILDING OF WHICH HAD LONG BEEN A MEANS OF EXPRESSING ARISTOCRATIC OR MERCANTILE POWER 4HESE DAYS A CLIMB TO THE SUMMIT IS ONE OF THE HIGHLIGHTS OF ANY &LORENTINE TRIP THOUGH ITS WORTH lRST TAKING IN THE TOWERS DECORATIVE SCULPTURES AND RELIEFS MOST ARE NOW COPIES THE ORIGINALS BEING IN THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO !S IT MOVED UP THE TOWER THE DECORATION WAS INTENDED TO MIR ROR HUMANITYS PROGRESS FROM ORIGINAL SIN TO A STATE OF DIVINE GRACE A PROGRESS FACILITATED BY MANUAL LABOUR THE ARTS AND THE SACRAMENTS AND GUIDED BY THE INmUENCE OF THE PLANETS AND THE CARDINAL AND THEOLOGICAL VIRTUES 4HUS THE lRST STOREY IS STUDDED WITH TWO ROWS OF BAS RELIEFS THE LOWER REGISTER IN HEXAGO NAL FRAMES n SOME DESIGNED BY 'IOTTO BUT ALL EXECUTED BY 0ISANO AND PUPILS n ILLUSTRATES THE #REATION !RT AND 7ORKS OF -AN WHILE IN THE DIAMOND SHAPED PANELS OF THE UPPER REGISTER ARE ALLEGORIES OF THE 3EVEN 0LANETS 3EVEN 3ACRAMENTS AND 3EVEN 6IRTUES ! CENTURY OR SO LATER ,UCA DELLA 2OBBIA ADDED THE &IVE ,IBERAL !RTS 'RAMMAR 0HILOSOPHY -USIC !RITHMETIC AND !STROLOGY ON THE NORTH FACE &URTHER WORKS IN THE SECOND STOREY NICHES BY 0ISANO WERE EVENTUALLY REPLACED BY $ONATELLO AND .ANNI DI "ARTOLOS lGURES OF THE 0ROPHETS 3IBYLS 0ATRIARCHS AND +INGS n 4HE PARAPET AT THE TOP OF THE TOWER IS A LESS LOFTY BUT IN MANY WAYS MORE SATISFYING VIEWPOINT THAN THE CATHEDRAL DOME IF ONLY BECAUSE THE VIEW TAKES IN THE $UOMO ITSELF "E WARNED THOUGH THAT THERE ARE STEPS TO THE SUMMIT n AND NO LIFT
4HE "APTISTERY
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&LORENCES "APTISTERY -ONn3AT NOONnPM 3UN AMnPM + STANDS IMMEDIATELY WEST OF THE $UOMO WHOSE GEOMETRICALLY PATTERNED MARBLE CLAD DING MIRRORS THAT OF THE SMALLER OLDER BUILDING 'ENERALLY THOUGHT TO DATE FROM THE SIXTH OR SEVENTH CENTURY THE "APTISTERY IS THE OLDEST BUILDING IN &LORENCE lRST DOCUMENTED IN WHEN IT WAS RECORDED AS THE CITYS CATHEDRAL BEFORE 3ANTA 2EPARATA 4HOUGH ITS ORIGINS LIE BURIED IN THE $ARK !GES NO BUILDING BET TER ILLUSTRATES THE SPECIAL RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN &LORENCE AND THE 2OMAN WORLD 4HE &LORENTINES WERE ALWAYS CONSCIOUS OF THEIR 2OMAN ANCESTRY AND FOR CENTURIES BELIEVED THAT THE "APTISTERY WAS A CONVERTED 2OMAN TEMPLE TO -ARS ORIGINALLY BUILT TO CELEBRATE THE DEFEAT OF &IESOLE AND THE CITYS FOUNDATION 4HIS BELIEF WAS BOLSTERED BY THE INTERIORS ANCIENT GRANITE COLUMNS PROBABLY TAKEN FROM THE CITYS OLD 2OMAN #APITOL OTHER COLUMNS FROM THIS SITE FOUND THEIR WAY TO 3AN -INIATO &URTHER PROOF WAS APPARENTLY PROVIDED BY TRACES OF AN ANCIENT PAVEMENT MOSAIC REMAINS NOW THOUGHT TO BELONG TO AN OLD 2OMAN BAKERY "UT IF THE BUILDING ITSELF IS NOT 2OMAN ITS EXTERIOR MARBLE CLADDING n APPLIED IN A 2OMANESQUE REWORKING BETWEEN ABOUT AND n IS CLEARLY CLASSICAL IN INSPIRATION WHILE ITS MOST FAMOUS EMBELLISHMENTS THE GILDED BRONZE DOORS MARK THE EMERGENCE OF A MORE SCHOLARLY SELF CONSCIOUS INTEREST IN THE ART OF THE ANCIENT WORLD 4HE SOUTH DOORS
2ESPONSIBILITY FOR THE "APTISTERYS IMPROVEMENT AND UPKEEP LAY WITH THE !RTE DI #ALIMALA THE MOST POWERFUL OF &LORENCES GUILDS )T WAS THEY WHO INITIATED THE BUILDINGS ELEVENTH CENTURY REVAMP AND THEY WHO IN THE S TURNED THEIR ATTENTION TO THE EXTERIOR AND IN PARTICULAR TO THE QUESTION OF A SUITABLY MAJESTIC ENTRANCE )N THIS THEY WERE STUNG INTO ACTION BY ARCH RIVAL 0ISA WHOSE CATHEDRAL WAS NOT ONLY FAMOUS FOR ITS BRONZE PORTALS BUT WHOSE CRAFTSMEN HAD RECENTLY COMPLETED SOME CELEBRATED BRONZE DOORS FOR THE GREAT CATHEDRAL AT -ONREALE IN 3ICILY 4HE ARRIVAL OF !NDREA 0ISANO IN &LORENCE IN OFFERED THE CHANCE OF SIMILAR GLORIES 7ITHIN THREE MONTHS THE 0ISAN SCULPTOR HAD CREATED WAX MODELS FOR WHAT WOULD BECOME THE "APTISTERYS SOUTH DOORS 4HEY WERE ORIGINALLY PLACED IN THE EAST PORTAL BUT WERE DISPLACED WHEN 'HIBERTIS h'ATES OF 0ARADISEv n SEE OVERLEAF n WERE lNISHED /VER THE NEXT EIGHT YEARS THE MODELS WERE CAST IN BRONZE PROBABLY WITH THE ASSISTANCE OF 6ENETIAN BELL MAKERS THEN )TALYS MOST ACCOMPLISHED BRONZESMITHS 4WENTY OF THE DOORS PANELS INSTALLED IN FORM A NARRATIVE ON THE LIFE OF 3T *OHN THE "APTIST PATRON SAINT OF &LORENCE AND THE "APTISTERYS DEDICATEE THE LOWEST EIGHT RELIEFS DEPICT (UMILITY AND THE #AR DINAL AND 4HEOLOGICAL 6IRTUES 4HE lGURES ABOVE THE PORTAL n THE "APTIST 3ALOME AND EXECUTIONER n ARE COPIES OF LATE SIXTEENTH CENTURY ADDITIONS THE ORIGINALS ARE IN THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO 4HE NORTH DOORS
3OME SIXTY YEARS OF lNANCIAL AND POLITICAL TURMOIL AND THE RAVAGES OF THE "LACK $EATH PREVENTED FURTHER WORK ON THE "APTISTERYS OTHER ENTRANCES UNTIL 4HAT YEAR A COMPETITION WAS HELD TO DESIGN A NEW SET OF DOORS EACH OF THE SIX MAIN ENTRANTS BEING ASKED TO CREATE A PANEL SHOWING THE 3ACRIlCE OF )SAAC 4HE DOORS WERE TO BE A VOTIVE OFFERING A GIFT TO 'OD TO CELEBRATE THE PASSING OF ANOTHER PLAGUE EPIDEMIC 4HE JUDGES FOUND THEMSELVES EQUALLY IMPRESSED BY THE WORK OF TWO YOUNG GOLDSMITHS "RUNELLESCHI AND ,ORENZO 'HIBERTI BOTH WINNING ENTRIES ARE
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DISPLAYED IN THE "ARGELLO 5NABLE TO CHOOSE BETWEEN THE PAIR IT APPEARS THAT THE JUDGES SUGGESTED THAT THE TWO WORK IN TANDEM "RUNELLESCHI REPLIED THAT IF HE COULDNT DO THE JOB ALONE HE WASNT INTERESTED n WHEREUPON THE CONTRACT WAS HANDED TO 'HIBERTI LEAVING HIS RIVAL TO STOMP OFF TO STUDY ARCHITECTURE IN 2OME 'HIBERTI BARELY YEARS OLD WAS TO DEVOTE MUCH OF THE NEXT YEARS TO THIS ONE PROJECT ALBEIT IN THE COMPANY OF DISTINGUISHED ASSISTANTS SUCH AS -ASOLINO $ONATELLO AND 0AOLO 5CCELLO (IS FAME RESTS ALMOST ENTIRELY ON THE EXTRAORDINARY RESULT (IS NORTH DOORS n SHOW A NEW NATURALISM AND CLASSICIZED SENSE OF COMPOSITION COPYING 0ISANOS PANEL ARRANGEMENT WHILE TRANSCENDING ITS TRADITIONAL 'OTHIC APPROACH THE UPPER TWENTY PANELS DEPICT 3CENES FROM THE .EW 4ESTAMENT WHILE THE EIGHT LOWER PANELS DESCRIBE THE &OUR %VANGELISTS AND &OUR $OCTORS OF THE #HURCH 4HE EAST DOORS
4HE NORTH DOORS WHILE EXTRAORDINARY ARE AS NOTHING TO THE SUBLIME EAST DOORS n ORDERED FROM 'HIBERTI AS SOON AS THE lRST SET WAS lNISHED 4HE ARTIST WOULD SPEND SOME YEARS ON THE NEW PROJECT WORK WHICH HE PURSUED IN HIS
5 4HE EAST DOORS OF THE "APTISTERY
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OWN WORDS hWITH THE GREATEST DILIGENCE AND GREATEST LOVEv 4HESE DOORS HAVE LONG BEEN KNOWN AS THE h'ATES OF 0ARADISEv SUPPOSEDLY BECAUSE -ICHELANGELO ONCE REMARKED THAT THEY WERE SO BEAUTIFUL THEY DESERVED TO BE THE PORTALS OF HEAVEN (OWEVER ITS MORE LIKELY THAT THE NAME CAME ABOUT BECAUSE THESE DOORS FACE THE CATHEDRAL n THE SPACE BETWEEN A CATHEDRAL AND ITS BAPTISTERY WAS KNOWN AS THE 0ARADISO BECAUSE THE SACRAMENT OF BAPTISM PUT ITS RECIPIENT ON THE THRESHOLD OF PARADISE 4HE DOORS HAVE JUST TEN PANELS A DEPARTURE FROM BOTH PREVIOUS SETS OF DOORS WHILE THEIR ENCLOSING SQUARES ABANDON THE 'OTHIC DIAMOND OR QUATREFOIL FRAME 5NPRECEDENTED IN THE SUBTLETY OF THEIR CASTING THE /LD 4ESTAMENT SCENES n THE #REATION THE 4EN #OMMANDMENTS THE 3ACRIlCE OF )SAAC AND SO ON n ARE A PRIMER OF EARLY 2ENAISSANCE ART USING RIGOROUS PERSPECTIVE GESTURE AND SOPHISTICATED GROUPINGS TO INTENSIFY THE DRAMA OF EACH SCENE 'HIBERTIS POWER OF COMPRESSION AND DETAIL IS SUCH THAT SEVERAL NARRATIVES ARE OFTEN WOVEN INTO A SINGLE SCENE 4HE SCULPTOR HAS ALSO INCLUDED AN UNDERSTANDABLY SELF SATISlED SELF PORTRAIT IN THE FRAME OF THE LEFT HAND DOOR HIS IS THE FOURTH HEAD FROM THE TOP OF THE RIGHT HAND BAND n THE BALD CHAP WITH THE SMIRK 4HE GORGEOUS GOLDEN DOORS NOW IN PLACE ARE REPRODUCTIONS AS THE ORIGINAL PANELS HAVE BEEN RESTORED AND EXHIBITED TO GREAT EFFECT IN THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO 4HE PAIR OF PITTED MARBLE COLUMNS TO THE SIDE OF THE EAST DOORS WERE PRE SENTED BY THE CITY OF 0ISA IN THE TWELFTH CENTURY AND WOULD HAVE BEEN SLOTTED INTO THE WALLS HAD THEY NOT TURNED OUT TO BE TOO WEAK TO BEAR ANY SUBSTANTIAL WEIGHT !NOTHER MARBLE COLUMN JUST NORTH OF THE "APTISTERY IS DECORATED WITH BRONZE BRANCHES AND LEAVES TO COMMEMORATE A MIRACLE OF *ANUARY !$ BROUGHT ABOUT BY THE BODY OF 3T :ENOBIUS &LORENCES lRST BISHOP AS THE CORPSE WAS BEING CARRIED FROM 3AN ,ORENZO INTO 3ANTA 2EPARATA IT BRUSHED AGAINST A BARREN ELM HERE WHICH THEREUPON SPRANG INTO LEAF 4HE INTERIOR
4HE "APTISTERY INTERIOR IS STUNNING WITH ITS BLACK AND WHITE MARBLE CLADDING AND MISCELLANY OF ANCIENT COLUMNS BELOW A BLAZING MOSAIC CEILING -OSAICS WERE NOT A &LORENTINE SPECIALITY n IN THE CENTURIES TO COME THEY WOULD GIVE WAY TO FRESCO BUT IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY THEY WERE THE PREDOMINANT DECORATIVE MEDIUM %NCOURAGED BY THE INTEREST SURROUNDING THE RESTORATION OF MOSAICS THEN TAKING PLACE IN THE EARLY #HRISTIAN BASILICAS OF 2OME AND 2AVENNA THE CITY WAS KEEN TO MATCH ITS RIVALS PRINCIPALLY 6ENICE 4HE EARLIEST MOSAICS LIE ABOVE THE SQUARE APSE AND DEPICT THE 6IRGIN AND *OHN THE "APTIST !BOVE THEM A WHEEL OF PROPHETS ENCIRCLES THE ,AMB OF 'OD 4HE MAIN VAULT IS DOMINATED BY A VAST lGURE OF #HRIST IN *UDGEMENT mANKED BY DEPICTIONS OF 0ARADISE AND (ELL *UST TO THE LEFT OF THE MONSTROUS MAN EATING ,UCIFER THE POET 6IRGIL IN A WHITE CLOAK CAN BE SEEN LEADING $ANTE IN BLACK THROUGH THE )NFERNO 4HESE lGURES WERE A LATER INSERTION ADDED AFTER THE POETS DEATH DURING SOMETHING OF A FRENZY OF RECOGNITION 4HE OTHER lVE SECTIONS OF THE OCTAGONAL CEILING DEPICT "IBLICAL SCENES BEGINNING ABOVE THE NORTH DOORS WITH THE #REATION AND PROCEEDING THROUGH THE STORIES OF *OSEPH AND *OHN THE "APTIST TOWARDS THE #RUCIlXION AND 2ESURRECTION SEEN ABOVE THE SOUTH DOORS 4HE INTERIORS SEMI ABSTRACT MOSAIC PAVEMENT ALSO DATES FROM THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY 4HE EMPTY OCTAGON AT ITS CENTRE MARKS THE SPOT ONCE OCCUPIED BY THE HUGE FONT IN WHICH EVERY CHILD BORN IN THE CITY DURING THE PREVIOUS TWELVE MONTHS WOULD BE BAPTIZED ON -ARCH .EW 9EARS $AY IN THE OLD &LORENTINE CALENDAR 7HEN A CHILD WAS BORN A COLOURED BEAN WAS DROPPED INTO AN URN IN THE "APTISTERY BLACK FOR A BOY WHITE FOR A GIRL n A SYSTEM WHICH ALLOWED THE BIRTH RATE TO BE CALCULATED
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4O THE RIGHT OF THE ALTAR LIES THE TOMB OF "ALDASSARE #OSSA THE SCHISMATIC 0OPE *OHN 88))) WHO WAS DEPOSED IN AND DIED IN &LORENCE IN !T THE TIME OF HIS DEATH HE WAS A GUEST OF HIS lNANCIAL ADVISER AND CLOSE FRIEND 'IOVANNI DI "ICCI DE -EDICI THE MAN WHO ESTABLISHED THE -EDICI AT THE POLITICAL FOREFRONT OF &LORENCE )T WAS THROUGH 0OPE *OHN THAT 'IOVANNI BECAME CHIEF BANKER TO THE 0APAL #URIA A DEAL THAT LAID THE FOUNDATIONS OF THE -EDICI FORTUNE FOR YEARS OVER HALF THE -EDICIS PROlTS WOULD COME FROM JUST TWO 2OME BASED BANKS 4HE MONUMENT DRAPED BY AN ILLUSIONISTIC MARBLE CANOPY IS THE WORK OF $ONATELLO AND HIS PUPIL -ICHELOZZO
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4HE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO )N A BODY CALLED THE /PERA DEL $UOMO LITERALLY THE h7ORK OF THE $UOMOv WAS CREATED TO OVERSEE THE MAINTENANCE OF THE $UOMO 3INCE THE EARLY lFTEENTH CENTURY ITS HOME HAS BEEN THE BUILDING BEHIND THE EAST END OF THE CATHEDRAL AT 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO WHICH NOW ALSO HOUSES THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM + A REPOSITORY OF THE MOST PRECIOUS AND FRAGILE WORKS OF ART FROM THE $UOMO "APTISTERY AND #AMPANILE !S AN OVERVIEW OF THE SCULPTURE OF &LORENCE THE MUSEUM IS SECOND ONLY TO THE "ARG ELLO )NCIDENTALLY YOU CAN SEE THE STONEMASONS OF THE PRESENT DAY /PERA AT WORK IN THEIR STUDIO AT 6IA DELLO 3TUDIO A ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE $UOMO 4HE GROUND mOOR
"EYOND THE TICKET OFlCE ROOMS DEVOTED TO SCULPTURE FROM THE "APTISTERY MOSTLY WORKS BY 4INO DA #AMAINO AND THE $UOMOS LATERAL DOORS PRECEDE THE MUSEUMS COURTYARD A SITE THICK WITH HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS DESPITE ITS ULTRA MODERN MAKEOVER IT WAS HERE THAT MUCH OF -ICHELANGELOS $AVID WAS SCULPTED .OW GLAZED OVER THE COURTYARD IS HOME OF ALL EIGHT OF 'HIBERTIS PANELS FROM THE h$OORS OF 0ARADISEv SEE P lNALLY BROUGHT TOGETHER FOLLOWING RESTORA TION AND NOW SHARING THE SPACE WITH THE GRACEFUL "APTISM OF #HRIST n BY !NDREA 3ANSOVINO AND ASSISTANTS 4HE LARGEST ROOM ON THIS mOOR IS A LARGE HALL DEVOTED TO THE ORIGINAL SCULPTURES OF THE CATHEDRALS WEST FRONT FOREMOST AMONG WHICH ARE WORKS BY THE CATHEDRALS lRST ARCHITECT !RNOLFO DI #AMBIO AND HIS WORKSHOP INCLUDING AN EERILY GLASS EYED -ADONNA AND #HILD ALL WERE RESCUED FROM !RNOLFOS QUARTER lNISHED CATHEDRAL FACADE WHICH WAS PULLED DOWN BY &ERDINAND ) IN %QUALLY STRIK ING IS THE SCULPTORS VASE CARRYING lGURE OF 3T 2EPARATA ONE OF &LORENCES PATRON SAINTS A WORK LONG THOUGHT TO BE OF 'REEK OR 2OMAN ORIGIN !LSO NOTEWORTHY IS THE RAMROD STRAIGHT STATUE OF "ONIFACE 6))) ONE OF THE MOST UNPLEASANT OF ALL MEDIEVAL POPES !LONG THE ENTRANCE WALL ARE FOUR SEATED lGURES OF THE %VANGE LISTS ALSO WRENCHED FROM THE FACADE .ANNI DI "ANCOS 3T ,UKE AND $ONATELLOS 3T *OHN ARE PARTICULARLY lNE 4HE ROOM OFF THE FAR END OF THE HALL FEATURES A SEQUENCE OF MARBLE RELIEFS n BY "ACIO "ANDINELLI AND 'IOVANNI "ANDINI PART OF AN UNlNISHED SEQUENCE OF PANELS PROPOSED FOR THE CHOIR OF THE CATHEDRAL !LSO HERE IS A COLLECTION OF PAINTINGS FROM A SERIES OF ALTARS IN THE CATHEDRAL ALL TORN FROM THEIR ORIGINAL HOME IN AS THEY WERE CONSIDERED AN AFFRONT TO THE PURITY OF THE BUILDING 4HE ADJOINING MODERN OCTAGONAL CHAPEL FEATURES AN ASSEMBLY OF RELIQUARIES WHICH CONTAIN AMONG OTHER SAINTLY REMAINS THE JAW OF 3AINT *EROME AND AN INDEX lNGER OF *OHN THE "APTIST )TS EASY TO MISS THE ROOM OFF TO THE RIGHT OF THE ,APIDARIUM A COLLECTION OF MODEST WORKS IN STONE WHICH CONTAINS ITEMS REMOVED FROM THE CATHEDRALS 0ORTA DELLA -ANDORLA INCLUDING A LOVELY TERRACOTTA #REATION OF %VE ATTRIBUTED TO $ONATELLO
4HE UPPER mOOR
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5P THE STAIRS ON THE MEZZANINE LEVEL STANDS -ICHELANGELOS ANGUISHED 0IETÌ n MOVED FROM THE CATHEDRAL AS RECENTLY AS WHILE RESTORATION OF THE DOME WAS IN PROGRESS BUT PROBABLY FATED TO STAY HERE 4HIS IS ONE OF THE SCULPTORS LAST WORKS CARVED WHEN HE WAS ALMOST AND WAS INTENDED FOR HIS OWN TOMB 6ASARI RECORDS THAT THE FACE OF .ICODEMUS IS A SELF PORTRAIT $ISSATIS lED WITH THE QUALITY OF THE MARBLE -ICHELANGELO MUTILATED THE GROUP BY HAM MERING OFF THE LEFT LEG AND ARM OF #HRIST HIS PUPIL 4IBERIO #ALCAGNI RESTORED THE ARM THEN lNISHED OFF THE lGURE OF -ARY -AGDALENE TURNING HER INTO A WHEY FACED SUPPORTING PLAYER !LTHOUGH HES REPRESENTED ON THE LOWER mOOR ITS UPSTAIRS THAT $ONATELLO THE GREATEST OF -ICHELANGELOS PRECURSORS REALLY COMES TO THE FORE 4HE lRST ROOM AT THE TOP OF THE STAIRS FEATURES HIS MAGNIlCENT #ANTORIA OR CHOIR LOFT n WITH ITS PLAYGROUND OF BOISTEROUS PUTTI &ACING IT IS ANOTHER SPLENDID CANTORIA n THE lRST KNOWN MAJOR COMMISSION OF THE YOUNG ,UCA DELLA 2OBBIA THE ORIGINALS ARE UNDERNEATH WITH CASTS REPLACING THEM IN THE CANTORIA ITSELF THE EARNEST MUSICIANS EMBODY THE TEXT FROM 0SALM WHICH IS INSCRIBED ON THE FRAME h0RAISE THE ,ORD WITH HARP 3ING UNTO (IM WITH THE PSALTERY AND INSTRUMENT OF TEN STRINGSv "OTH LOFTS WERE DISMANTLED AND REMOVED FROM THEIR POSITION ABOVE THE CATHEDRALS SACRISTIES IN ON THE OCCASION OF THE ILL FATED MARRIAGE OF 6IOLANTE "EATRICE OF "AVARIA TO &ERDINAND DE -EDICI THE HOPELESSLY INEFFECTUAL HEIR OF #OSIMO ))) 4HE CEREMONY GAVE THE CATHEDRAL AUTHORITIES THE EXCUSE TO DECORATE THE CATHEDRAL IN A MORE lTTING hMODERNv STYLE 4HE ENSUING CLEAR OUT LEFT THE CANTORIE LANGUISHING IN DUSTY STORAGE FOR SOME TWO CENTURIES !ROUND THE ROOM ARE ARRAYED THE LIFE SIZE lGURES THAT $ONATELLO CARVED FOR THE #AMPANILE PERHAPS THE MOST POWERFUL OF WHICH IS THE PROPHET (ABBAKUK THE INTENSITY OF WHOSE GAZE IS SAID TO HAVE PROMPTED THE SCULPTOR TO SEIZE IT AND YELL h3PEAK SPEAKv $ONATELLO WAS APPARENTLY ALSO RESPONSIBLE FOR THE STATUES NICKNAME ,O :UCCONE THE 0UMPKIN n AFTER ITS BALD HEAD +EEPING COMPANY WITH $ONATELLOS WORK ARE FOUR 0ROPHETS n AND TWO 3YBILS n ATTRIBUTED TO !NDREA 0ISANO AND 4HE 3ACRIlCE OF )SAAC A COLLABORATION BETWEEN .ANNI DI "ARTOLO AND $ONATELLO $ONATELLOS LATER STYLE IS EXEMPLIlED BY THE GAUNT WOODEN lGURE OF -ARY -AGDALENE n WHICH CONFRONTS YOU ON ENTERING THE ROOM OFF THE CANTORIE ROOM 4HE -AGDALENE CAME FROM THE "APTISTERY AS DID THE SILVER ALTAR FRONT AT THE FAR END OF THE ROOM A DAZZLING SUMMARY OF THE LIFE OF 3T *OHN THE "APTIST "EGUN IN THE PIECE WAS COMPLETED IN THE CULMINATION OF A CENTURY OF LABOUR BY AMONG OTHERS -ICHELOZZO RESPONSIBLE FOR THE CENTRAL lGURE OF *OHN THE "APTIST 6ERROCCHIO THE $ECAPITATION TO THE RIGHT AND !NTONIO DEL 0OLLAIUOLO THE "IRTH OF *ESUS ON THE LEFT SIDE WHO WAS THE CHIEF CREATOR OF THE SILVER CROSS ATOP THE ALTAR 2ANGED AROUND THE WALLS ARE MORE RELIQUARIES FABRICS COPES AND OTHER RELIGIOUS VESTMENTS INCLUDING SUBLIMELY WORKED NEEDLEWORK PANELS n FORMER VESTMENTS AND ALTAR PANELS FROM THE "APTISTERY n PRODUCED BETWEEN AND BY &RENCH &LEMISH AND &LORENTINE ARTISTS INCLUDING MEMBERS OF THE !RTE DI #ALIMALA ONE OF THE KEY TEXTILE GUILDS WORKING TO DESIGNS BY 0OL LAIUOLO .OT SURPRISINGLY GIVEN THEIR PROVENANCE THEY PORTRAY SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF THE "APTIST ONE OF &LORENCES PATRONS AND THE "APTISTERYS DEDICATEE )N THE ROOM ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CANTORIE ROOM YOULL lND THE BAS RELIEFS THAT ONCE ADORNED THE #AMPANILE 4HOUGH DARKENED WITH AGE THEIR ALLEGORICAL PANELS REMAIN BOTH STRIKING AND INTELLIGIBLE DEPICTING THE SPIRITUAL RElNEMENT OF HUMANITY THROUGH LABOUR THE ARTS AND ULTIMATELY THE VIRTUES AND SACRAMENTS 4HE DISPLAY REPRODUCES THE RELIEFS ORIGINAL ARRANGEMENT THE KEY PANELS BEING THE HEXAGONAL RELIEFS OF THE LOWER TIER ALL OF WHICH n SAVE FOR THE LAST lVE BY
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,UCA DELLA 2OBBIA n n WERE THE WORK OF !NDREA 0ISANO AND HIS SON .INO Cn PROBABLY TO DESIGNS BY 'IOTTO ! CORRIDOR AT THE END OF 2OOM )) LEADS PAST A MOCK UP OF "RUNELLESCHIS BUILDING SITE COMPLETE WITH BROKEN BRICKS WOODEN SCAFFOLDING AND SOME OF THE TOOLS THAT WERE USED TO BUILD THE DOME MANY INVENTED SPECIlCALLY FOR THE PURPOSE BY THE ARCHITECT HIMSELF -ORE ARRESTING IS "RUNELLESCHIS DEATH MASK WHICH ALMOST n BUT NOT QUITE n LOOKS OUT OF THE WINDOW AT THE DOME JUST ACROSS THE WAY 4HE SEQUENCE OF ROOMS BEYOND DISPLAYS VARIOUS PROPOSALS FOR COMPLETING THE BALCONY OF THE DRUM BELOW THE CUPOLA AND THE $UOMOS WEST FRONT INCLUDING MODELS CREATED BY -ICHELANGELO 'IULIANO DA -AIANO 'IAMBOLOGNA !NTONIO DA 3ANGALLO !NDREA 3ANSOVINO AND OTHER LEADING ARCHITECTS 4HE WOODEN MODEL OF THE CATHEDRAL LANTERN IS PRESUMED TO HAVE BEEN MADE BY "RUNELLESCHI AS PART OF HIS WINNING PROPOSAL FOR THE DESIGN OF THE LANTERN IN 4HE lNAL ROOM JUST OFF THE MAIN STAIRCASE SHOWS PLANS SUBMITTED TO THE THREE COMPETI TIONS HELD IN THE S WHEN &LORENCE WAS BRIEmY CAPITAL OF )TALY AND THE QUES TION OF THE FACADE STANDING hIGNOMINIOUS IN FADED STUCCOv AS 'EORGE %LIOT PUT IT ONCE MORE BECAME PRESSING 4HEY MOSTLY PROVOKE RELIEF THAT NONE CAME TO FRUITION WHILE %MILIO DE &ABRISS WINNING DESIGN OF IS MOSTLY REMARKABLE FOR HOW LITTLE IT DIFFERS FROM THE OTHER NINETEENTH CENTURY 'OTHIC PASTICHES
4HE -USEO DEL "IGALLO /N THE OTHER SIDE OF 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO AT THE TOP OF 6IA DE #ALZAIUOLI STANDS THE ,OGGIA DEL "IGALLO WHICH WAS BUILT IN THE S FOR THE #OMPAGNIA DELLA -ISERICORDIA A CHARITABLE ORGANIZATION FOUNDED BY 3T 0ETER -ARTYR IN TO GIVE AID TO THE SICK AND TO BURY THE DEAD 4HE -ISERICORDIA STILL EXISTS THEIR HEADQUARTERS IS JUST ACROSS THE WAY WITH THEIR AMBULANCES PARKED OUTSIDE "Y THE TIME THE LOGGIA WAS BUILT THE -ISERICORDIA WAS ALSO FUNCTIONING AS AN ORPHANAGE n THE BUILDING WAS COMMISSIONED AS A PLACE TO DISPLAY ABANDONED BABIES IN THE HOPE THAT THEY MIGHT BE RECOGNIZED BEFORE BEING GIVEN TO FOSTER PARENTS &OR MOST OF THE lFTEENTH CENTURY THE -ISERICORDIA WAS UNITED WITH ANOTHER ORPHANAGE #OMPAGNIA DEL "IGALLO FROM THE VILLAGE IN WHICH IT BEGAN HENCE THE LOGGIAS NAME .OWADAYS IT HOUSES THE THREE ROOM -USEO DEL "IGALLO DAILY EXCEPT 4UES AMnPM + WHICH CONTAINS A TINY COLLECTION OF RELIGIOUS PAINTINGS COMMISSIONED BY THE TWO COMPANIES !S YOU MIGHT EXPECT THE -ADONNA AND #HILD IS A DOMINANT THEME AND 3T 0ETER -ARTYR IS PRESENT AS WELL BUT THE TWO HIGHLIGHTS ARE A REMNANT OF A FRESCO PAINTED ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE LOGGIA IN SHOWING THE TRANSFER OF INFANTS TO THEIR ADOPTIVE PARENTS AND THE -ADONNA OF THE -ISERICORDIA PAINTED BY A FOLLOWER OF "ERNARDO $ADDI IN WHICH FEATURES THE OLDEST KNOWN PANORAMA OF &LORENCE
4HE -USEO DI &IRENZE COMERA
4HE TOP OF 6IA DEL 0ROCONSOLO JUST A FEW YARDS FROM THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO FORMS A MAJOR JUNCTION WITH 6IA DELL/RIUOLO HOME TO THE -USEO DI &IRENZE COMERA DAILY EXCEPT 4HURS AMnPM + 4HIS h-USEUM OF &LOR ENCE AS IT USED TO BEv IS ONE OF THE CITYS UNSUNG MUSEUMS BUT ITS CONTENTS AND SETTING n IN A PLEASANT GARDEN FRONTED PALAZZO n ARE DELIGHTFUL 4HERE ARE PLANS TO MOVE THE MUSEUM TO THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO BUT THE TRANSFER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE IMMINENT 4HE STORY BEGINS WITH A COLLECTION OF MODELS PLANS AND PHOTOGRAPHS OF THE EXCAVATION OF THE 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA THAT TOOK PLACE IN THE S !S ONE WOULD EXPECT A NUMBER OF DISCOVERIES WERE MADE BUT FOR WANT OF ANY BETTER IDEAS THE PIAZZA WAS SIMPLY PAVED OVER ONCE THE DIG WAS COMPLETE ! LARGE SOMEWHAT SPECU
7HEREAS THE 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO PROVIDES THE FOCUS FOR THE CITYS RELIGIOUS LIFE THE 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA n SITE OF THE MAGNIlCENT 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO AND FORECOURT TO THE 5FlZI n HAS ALWAYS BEEN THE CENTRE OF ITS SECULAR EXISTENCE %VER BUSY ITS AT ITS LIVELIEST FOR POLITICAL RALLIES AND OTHER CIVIC EVENTS WHEN SPEAKERS ADDRESS THE CROWDS FROM THE TERRACE IN FRONT OF THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO 4HE TERRACE IS CALLED THE ARRINGHIERA FROM THE SAME ROOT AS THE %NGLISH WORD hHARANGUEv 4EMPERS CAN GET FRAYED AT THESE GATHERINGS BUT THINGS USED TO BE A LOT WILDER IN FOR EXAMPLE ONE INmAMMATORY MEETING ENDED WITH A MAN BEING EATEN BY A MOB -OST FAMOUSLY IT WAS HERE THAT 3AVONAROLA HELD HIS h"ONlRES OF THE 6ANITIESv SEE P n ON THE VERY SPOT WHERE ON -AY HE WAS TO BE EXECUTED FOR HERESY ! PLAQUE NEAR THE FOUNTAIN MARKS THE PLACE &OR SO IMPORTANT A SQUARE THE HISTORY OF THE 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA IS ONE OF ODDLY HAPHAZARD AND PIECEMEAL DEVELOPMENT /RIGINALLY THE AREA BELONGED TO THE 5BERTI FAMILY LEADING MEMBERS OF THE CITYS 'HIBELLINE FACTION 7HEN THE 'HIBELLINES WERE DEFEATED IN THE LAND AND BUILDINGS ON IT WERE CONlSCATED AND ALLOWED TO FALL INTO RUIN SUPPOSEDLY AS A LASTING MEMORIAL TO 'HIBELLINE TREACHERY )N TIME PART OF THE AREA WAS PAVED A FURTHER ACT OF HUMILIATION DESIGNED TO PREVENT THE 5BERTI n EXILED FROM THE CITY n FROM EVER RAISING ANOTHER BUILDING WITHIN ITS PRECINCTS 4HE ALLEGED RELUCTANCE OF THE CITY AUTHORITIES TO ENCROACH ON THIS hTAINTEDv LAND PARTLY EXPLAINS THE ASYMMETRICAL SHAPE OF THE SQUARE AND THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO 4HE SQUARE TOOK ON A PUBLIC ROLE IN WHEN A SMALL AREA WAS LAID OUT TO PROVIDE A SETTING FOR THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO THEN KNOWN AS THE 0ALAZZO DEI 0RIORI "Y THE PIAZZA WAS COMPLETELY PAVED AND WHEELED TRAFlC WAS BANNED FROM THE AREA AS IT STILL IS &URTHER RESTRUCTURING OCCURRED DURING #OSIMO )S REORDERING OF THE 5FlZI AROUND AND MORE ALTERATIONS FOLLOWED IN WHEN THE MEDIEVAL ,OGGIA DEI 0ISANI WAS DEMOLISHED OPENING UP MUCH OF THE SQUARES PRESENT DAY WESTWARD SWEEP "Y THIS TIME SOME OF THE PIAZZAS MOST SALIENT FEATURES n ITS STATUES n WERE ALREADY lRMLY IN PLACE
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0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA AND THE 5FlZI
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LATIVE MODEL OF THE 2OMAN CITY STANDS AT THE FAR END OF THE ROOM WITH COLOURED SECTIONS SHOWING THE BUILDINGS WHOSE LOCATIONS THE ARCHEOLOGISTS ARE SURE OF 4HE LONG VAULTED MAIN GALLERY STANDS ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE ENTRANCE CORRI DOR -APS PRINTS PHOTOS AND TOPOGRAPHICAL PAINTINGS CHART THE GROWTH OF &LOR ENCE FROM THE lFTEENTH CENTURY TO THE PRESENT AND WHILE NONE OF THE EXHIBITS IS A MASTERPIECE MOST OF THEM ARE AT LEAST INFORMATIVE 0ERHAPS THE MOST IMPRESSIVE ITEM COMES RIGHT AT THE START A METICULOUS REPRODUCTION OF A COLOSSAL AERIAL VIEW OF &LORENCE CALLED THE 0IANTA DELLA #ATENA #HAIN -AP THE ORIGINAL OF WHICH WAS DESTROYED IN "ERLIN DURING 7ORLD 7AR )) )TS THE OLDEST ACCURATE REPRESENTATION OF THE CITYS LAYOUT !LMOST AS APPEALING ARE THE TWELVE LUNETTE PICTURES OF THE -EDICI VILLAS REPRODUCTIONS OF WHICH YOULL SEE ON POSTCARDS AND POSTERS ACROSS THE CITY 4HEYRE THE WORK OF &LEMISH PAINTER *USTUS 5TENS AND WERE PAINTED FOR THE -EDICIS 6ILLA DELL!RTIMINO ! POIGNANT WOODEN MODEL PORTRAYS THE LABY RINTHINE JUMBLE OF THE -ERCATO 6ECCHIO THE CITYS ANCIENT HEART WHICH WAS DEMOLISHED TO MAKE SPACE FOR THE 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA AT THE END OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY %LSEWHERE A GRAPHIC PICTURE PORTRAYS 3AVONAROLAS EXECU TION SEE P AND EIGHTEENTH CENTURY &LORENCE IS CELEBRATED IN THE ELEGIAC ENGRAVINGS OF 'IUSEPPE :OCCHI
4HE &LORENTINE 2EPUBLIC
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$ANTE COMPARED &LORENCES CONSTANT POLITICAL STRUGGLES TO A SICK MAN FOREVER SHIFT ING HIS POSITION IN BED AND INDEED ITS MEDIEVAL HISTORY OFTEN APPEARS A CATALOGUE OF INCESSANT CIVIC UNREST 9ET BETWEEN AND n BAR THE ODD RUCTION n THE CITY MAINTAINED A REPUBLICAN CONSTITUTION THAT WAS EMBODIED IN WELL DElNED INSTITU TIONS 4HE NUCLEUS OF THIS STRUCTURE WAS FORMED BY THE CITYS MERCHANTS AND GUILDS WHO COVERTLY CONTROLLED &LORENCE AS EARLY AS THE TWELFTH CENTURY AND FORMALIZED THEIR INmUENCE DURING THE SO CALLED 0RIMO 0OPOLO n A QUASI DEMOCRATIC REGIME WHOSE TEN YEAR RULE CLAIMED $ANTE WAS THE ONLY PERIOD OF CIVIC PEACE IN &LORENCES HISTORY $URING THE 3ECONDO 0OPOLO THE LEADING GUILDS THE !RTI -AGGIORI INTRODUCED THE /RDINAMENTI DELLA 'IUSTIZIA A WRITTEN CONSTITUTION THAT ENTRENCHED MERCANTILE POWER STILL FURTHER AND WAS TO BE THE BASIS OF &LORENCES GOVERNMENT FOR THE NEXT TWO HUNDRED AND lFTY YEARS 4HE RULERS OF THIS MUCH VAUNTED REPUBLIC WERE DRAWN EXCLUSIVELY FROM THE RANKS OF GUILD MEMBERS OVER THE AGE OF AND WERE CHOSEN IN A PUBLIC CEREMONY HELD EVERY TWO MONTHS THE SHORT TENURE BEING DESIGNED TO PREVENT INDIVIDUALS OR CLIQUES ASSUMING TOO MUCH POWER !T THIS CEREMONY THE NAMES OF SELECTED GUILD MEMBERS WERE PLACED IN EIGHT LEATHER BAGS BORSE KEPT IN THE SACRISTY OF 3ANTA #ROCE THE ONES PICKED FROM THE BAGS DULY BECAME THE 0RIORI OR 3IGNORI FORMING A GOVERN MENT CALLED THE 3IGNORIA USUALLY COMPRISING NINE MEN MOST OF THEM FROM THE !RTI -AGGIORI /NCE ELECTED THE 0RIORI MOVED INTO THE 0ALAZZO DELLA 3IGNORIA WHERE THEY WERE EXPECTED TO STAY VIRTUALLY INCOMMUNICADO FOR THEIR PERIOD OF OFlCE n THOUGH THEY WERE WAITED ON HAND AND FOOT AND ENJOYED THE SERVICES OF A PROFESSIONAL JOKE TELLER THE "UFFONE (EADED BY THE 'ONFALONIERE LITERALLY THE h3TANDARD "EARERv THE 3IGNORIA CON SULTED TWO ELECTED COUNCILS OR #OLLEGI n THE $ODICI "UONOMINI 4WELVE #ITIZENS AND 3EDICI 'ONFALONIERI 3IXTEEN 3TANDARD "EARERS n AS WELL AS COMMITTEES INTRODUCED TO DEAL WITH SPECIlC CRISES THE 4EN OF 7AR THE %IGHT OF 3ECURITY THE 3IX OF #OM MERCEx 0ERMANENT OFlCIALS INCLUDED THE #HANCELLOR A POST ONCE HELD BY -ACHI AVELLI AND THE 0ODESTÌ A CHIEF MAGISTRATE BROUGHT IN FROM A NEIGHBOURING CITY AS AN INDEPENDENT ARBITRATOR AND HOUSED IN THE "ARGELLO )N TIMES OF EXTREME CRISIS SUCH AS THE 0AZZI #ONSPIRACY SEE P ALL MALE CITIZENS OVER THE AGE OF WERE SUMMONED TO A 0ARLAMENTO IN 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA BY THE TOLLING OF THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIOS FAMOUS BELL KNOWN AS THE 6ACCA #OW AFTER ITS DEEP BOVINE TONE 7HEN A TWO THIRDS QUORUM WAS REACHED THE PEOPLE WERE ASKED TO APPROVE A "ALÖA A COMMITTEE DELEGATED TO DEAL WITH THE SITUATION AS IT SAW lT !LL THIS LOOKED GOOD ON PAPER BUT IN PRACTICE THE SET UP WAS FAR FROM DEMOCRATIC 4HE LOWLIEST WORKERS THE 0OPOLO -INUTO WERE TOTALLY EXCLUDED AS WERE THE 'RANDI OR NOBLES !ND DESPITE THE 3IGNORIAS APPARENTLY RANDOM SELECTION PROCESS POLITICAL CLIQUES HAD FEW PROBLEMS ENSURING THAT ONLY THE NAMES OF LIKELY SUPPORTERS FOUND THEIR WAY INTO THE BORSE )F A ROGUE CANDIDATE SLIPPED THROUGH THE NET OR THINGS WENT AWRY THEN A 0ARLAMENTO WAS SUMMONED A "ALÖA FORMED AND THE OFFENDING PERSON REPLACED BY A MORE PLIABLE CANDIDATE )T WAS BY SUCH MEANS THAT THE GREAT MERCANTILE DYNASTIES OF &LORENCE n THE 0ERUZZI THE !LBIZZI THE 3TROZZI AND OF COURSE THE -EDICI n RETAINED THEIR POWER EVEN WHEN NOT TECHNICALLY IN OFlCE
4HE 0IAZZAS STATUES
&LORENCES POLITICAL VOLATILITY IS ENCAPSULATED BY THE 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIAS PECULIAR ARRAY OF STATUES MOST OF WHICH WERE ARRANGED IN THE SIXTEENTH CEN TURY TO ACCENTUATE THE AXIS OF THE 5FlZI &ROM LEFT TO RIGHT THE LINE UP STARTS WITH 'IAMBOLOGNAS EQUESTRIAN STATUE OF #OSIMO ) n !N ECHO OF THE FAMOUS -ARCUS !URELIUS STATUE IN 2OME IT WAS DESIGNED TO DRAW PARALLELS
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BETWEEN THE POWER OF MEDIEVAL &LORENCE AND THUS #OSIMO AND THE GLORY OF IMPERIAL 2OME 4HREE BAS RELIEFS AT THE BASE PORTRAY KEY EVENTS IN #OSIMOS CAREER BECOMING DUKE OF &LORENCE THE CONQUEST OF 3IENA AND ACQUIRING THE TITLE 'RAND $UKE OF 4USCANY FROM 0IUS 6 .EXT COMES !MMANNATIS FATUOUS .EPTUNE &OUNTAIN n A TRIBUTE TO #OSIMOS PROWESS AS A NAVAL COMMANDER .EPTUNE HIMSELF IS A LUMPEN LOUT OF A lGURE WHO PROVOKED -ICHELANGELO TO COIN THE RHYMING PUT DOWN !MMAN NATO !MMANNATO CHE BEL MARMO HAI ROVINATO h WHAT A lNE PIECE OF MARBLE YOUVE RUINEDv !FTER A COPY OF $ONATELLOS -ARZOCCO n THE ORIGINAL OF WHICH IS IN THE "ARGELLO COMES A COPY OF THE SAME SCULPTORS *UDITH AND (OLOFERNES n WHICH FREEZES THE ACTION AT THE MOMENT *UDITHS ARM BEGINS ITS SCYTHING STROKE n A DRAMATIC CONCEPTION THAT NO OTHER SCULPTOR OF THE PERIOD WOULD HAVE ATTEMPTED #OMMISSIONED BY #OSIMO DE -EDICI THIS STATUE DOUBLED AS A FOUNTAIN IN THE 0ALAZZO -EDICI BUT WAS REMOVED TO THE 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA AFTER THE EXPULSION OF THE FAMILY IN TO BE DISPLAYED AS AN EMBLEM OF VANQUISHED TYRANNY A NEW INSCRIPTION ON THE BASE REINFORCED THE MESSAGE FOR THOSE TOO OBTUSE TO GET IT 4HE ORIGINAL IS IN THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO -ICHELANGELOS $AVID AT lRST INTENDED FOR THE $UOMO WAS ALSO INSTALLED HERE AS A DECLARATION OF CIVIC SOLIDARITY BY THE &LORENTINE 2EPUBLIC SEE OPPOSITE THE ORIGINAL IS NOW COOPED UP IN THE !CCADEMIA #ONCEIVED AS PART NER PIECE TO THE $AVID "ANDINELLIS (ERCULES AND #ACUS WAS DESIGNED AS A PERSONAL EMBLEM OF #OSIMO ) AND A SYMBOL OF &LOREN TINE FORTITUDE "ENVENUTO #ELLINI DESCRIBED THE MUSCLEBOUND lGURE AS LOOKING LIKE hA SACKFUL OF MELONSv AND ITS A SOBERING THOUGHT THAT THE MARBLE MIGHT WELL HAVE ENDED UP AS SOMETHING MORE INSPIRING )N THE LATE S WHEN THE &LORENTINES WERE ONCE AGAIN BUSY TEARING THE -EDICI EMBLEM FROM EVERY BUILD ING ON WHICH IT HAD BEEN STUCK -ICHELANGELO OFFERED TO CARVE A MONUMENTAL lGURE OF 3AMSON TO CELEBRATE THE 2EPUBLICS LATEST VIC TORY OVER TYRANNY OTHER DEMANDS ON THE ARTISTS TIME PUT PAID TO THIS PROJECT AND THE STONE PASSED TO "ANDINELLI WHO DULY VENTED HIS MEDIOCRITY ON IT
4HE ,OGGIA DELLA 3IGNORIA 4HE SQUARES GRACE NOTE THE ,OGGIA DELLA 3IGNORIA WAS BEGUN IN PROMPTED BY THAT YEARS HEAVY RAINS WHICH HAD WASHED OUT &LORENCES ENTIRE CALENDAR OF PUBLIC CEREMO NIES )T WAS COMPLETED IN SERV
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ING AS A DAIS FOR CITY DIGNITARIES A FORUM FOR MEETING FOREIGN EMISSARIES AND A PLATFORM FOR THE SWEARING IN OF PUBLIC OFlCIALS )TS ALTERNATIVE NAME THE ,OGGIA DEI ,ANZI COMES FROM #OSIMO )S BODYGUARD OF 3WISS LANCERS WHO WERE GAR RISONED NEARBY !LTHOUGH $ONATELLOS *UDITH AND (OLOFERNES WAS PLACED HERE AS EARLY AS IT WAS ONLY IN THE LATE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY THAT THE LOGGIA BECAME EXCLUSIVELY A SHOWCASE FOR SCULPTURE )N THE CORNER NEAREST THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO STANDS A lGURE THAT HAS BECOME ONE OF THE ICONIC IMAGES OF THE 2ENAISSANCE "ENVENUTO #EL LINIS 0ERSEUS NOW BACK IN ITS RIGHTFUL PLACE AFTER A PAINSTAKING RESTORA TION 4HE BASE IS A COPY HOWEVER THE ORIGINAL IS ON DISPLAY IN THE "ARGELLO n SEE P -ADE FOR #OSIMO ) THE STATUE SYMBOLIZES THE TRIUMPH OF lRM 'RAND $UCAL RULE OVER THE MONSTROUS INDISCIPLINE OF ALL OTHER FORMS OF GOVERNMENT 4HE TRAUMATIC PROCESS OF THE STATUES CREATION IS VIVIDLY DESCRIBED IN #ELLINIS RIP ROARING AUTOBIOGRAPHY SEEING THE MOLTEN BRONZE BEGINNING TO SOLIDIFY TOO EARLY THE EVER RESOURCEFUL HERO SAVED THE DAY BY mINGING ALL HIS PEWTER PLATES INTO THE MIX 7HEN THE BRONZE COOLED THE lGURE EMERGED FROM THE MOULD MISSING ONLY THREE TOES WHICH WERE ADDED LATER %QUALLY ATTENTION SEEKING IS 'IAMBOLOGNAS LAST WORK TO THE RIGHT 4HE 2APE OF THE 3ABINE CONJURED FROM THE LARGEST PIECE OF SCULPTURAL MARBLE EVER SEEN IN &LORENCE AND THE EPITOME OF THE -ANNERIST OBSESSION WITH SPIRALLING FORMS 4HE SCULPTOR SUPPOSEDLY INTENDED THE PIECE MERELY AS A STUDY OF OLD AGE MALE STRENGTH AND FEMALE BEAUTY THE PRESENT NAME WAS COINED LATER 4HE lGURES ALONG THE BACK WALL ARE 2OMAN WORKS TRADITIONALLY BELIEVED TO PORTRAY 2OMAN EMPRESSES WHILE OF THE THREE CENTRAL STATUES ONLY ONE n 'IAMBOLOGNAS (ERCULES 3LAYING THE #ENTAUR n DESERVES ITS PLACE 4HE SEVEN lGURES IN THE SPANDRELS BETWEEN THE ARCHES ABOVE DEPICT THE 6IRTUES n ALL CARVED TO DESIGNS BY !GNOLO 'ADDI SAVE THE HEAD OF &AITH WHICH WAS REPLACED BY $ONATELLO WHEN THE ORIGINAL CRASHED TO THE GROUND
4HE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO
0ROBABLY DESIGNED BY !RNOLFO DI #AMBIO &LORENCES FORTRESS LIKE TOWN HALL THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO DAILY AMnPM 4HURS CLOSES PM + n OR JOINT TICKET WITH THE #APPELLA "RANCACCI + WAS BEGUN AS THE 0ALAZZO DEI 0RIORI IN THE LAST YEAR OF THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY TO PROVIDE PREMISES FOR THE 0RIORI OR 3IGNORIA THE HIGHEST TIER OF THE CITYS REPUBLICAN GOVERNMENT #HANGES IN THE &LORENTINE CONSTITUTION OVER THE YEARS ENTAILED ALTERATIONS TO THE LAYOUT OF THE PALACE THE MOST RADICAL COMING IN WHEN #OSIMO ) MOVED HIS RETINUE HERE FROM THE 0ALAZZO -EDICI AND GRAFTED A HUGE EXTENSION ONTO THE REAR 4HE -EDICI REMAINED IN RESIDENCE FOR ONLY NINE YEARS BEFORE MOVING TO THE 0ALAZZO 0ITTI THE hOLDv VECCHIO PALACE WHICH THEY LEFT TO THEIR SON &RANCESCO THEN ACQUIRED ITS PRESENT NAME "ETWEEN AND DURING &LORENCES BRIEF TENURE AS CAPITAL OF A NEWLY UNITED )TALY THE PALACE HOUSED THE COUNTRYS PARLIAMENT AND FOREIGN MINISTRY !S FOR THE SIGHTS MUCH OF THE PALACES DECORATION COMPRISES A RELENTLESS EULOGY TO #OSIMO AND HIS RELATIONS PROPAGANDA THATS MADE TOLERABLE BY SOME OF THE PALACES EXAMPLES OF -ANNERIST ART n AMONG THE lNEST PIECES PRODUCED BY THAT ULTRA SOPHISTICATED AND SELF CONSCIOUS MOVEMENT 4HERE ARE ALSO FRESCOES BY $OMENICO 'HIRLANDAIO AND SOME OUTSTANDING SCULPTURES NOT LEAST WORKS BY -ICHELANGELO AND $ONATELLO )TS ALSO POSSIBLE TO VISIT HIDDEN PARTS OF THE PALACE ON HOUR LONG GUIDED TOURS KNOWN AS 0ERCORSI 3EGRETI WHILE FOR THE YOUNGSTERS THERES THE INNOVATIVE %MOZIONI DA -USEO PROGRAMME SEE BOX ON P
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4HE COURTYARD AND lRST mOOR
7ORK ON THE PALACES BEAUTIFUL INNER COURTYARD WAS BEGUN BY -ICHELOZZO IN 4HE DECORATION WAS LARGELY ADDED BY 6ASARI COURT ARCHITECT FROM UNTIL HIS DEATH IN ON THE OCCASION OF &RANCESCO DE -EDICIS MARRIAGE TO *OHANNA OF !USTRIA IN 4HE BRIDES ORIGIN EXPLAINS THE +1,/ , OTHERWISE PUZZLING PRESENCE OF CITIES ÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊ Ê " Ê8 BELONGING TO THE (ABSBURG %MPIRE Î Î AMID THE WALLS PAINTED TOWNSCAPES Î { 6ASARI ALSO DESIGNED THE CENTRAL FOUN 1`iâ> ->iÊ`iÊ µÕiViÌ TAIN THOUGH THE WINSOME PUTTO AND DOLPHIN AT ITS CROWN ARE THE Î Î Ó Î WORK OF 6ERROCCHIO THE PRESENT STAT £ x È UES ARE COPIES THE ORIGINALS ARE ON THE 4ERRAZZO DI 'IUNONE ON THE PALACES SECOND mOOR 6ASARI WAS ALSO LET LOOSE ON THE MONUMENTAL STAIR ->>Ê`i Õ}iÌ CASE MARKED ON OUR PLAN A FAR MORE SATISFYING AFFAIR WHICH LEADS TO THE PALACES lRST mOOR THOUGH VISITORS *<<Ê ARE SOMETIMES DIRECTED TO TAKE A DIF - ", FERENT ROUTE UPSTAIRS £ ÕiÌ>ÊÃÌ>ÀV>ÃiÊ£xÈ£qÇ£®]Ê6>Ã>À 6ASARI WAS GIVEN FULLER REIN IN THE Ó 6ÀÌÕiÊ"ÛiÀV}Ê6ViÊ£xÈx®]Ê>L}> Î /
iÊ >LÕÀÃÊvÊiÀVÕiÃÊ£xÈÓqn{®]Ê6ViâÊ`i½Ê,Ãà HUGE 3ALONE DEI #INQUECENTO { 6VÌÀÞÊÊ£xÎÎq{®]Ê V
i>}i x -ÌÕ`Ê`ÊÀ>ViÃVÊÊ£xÇäqÇx® AT THE TOP OF THE STAIRS WHERE TICK È /iÃÀiÌÌÊ£xxqÈ£® ETS ARE CHECKED )T WAS ORIGINALLY -Ì>ÀÃÊvÀÊ}ÀÕ`ÊvÀ BUILT IN AS THE MEETING HALL -Ì>ÀÃÊÌÊÃiV`ÊvÀ FOR THE #ONSIGLIO -AGGIORE 'REAT #OUNCIL THE RULING ASSEMBLY OF THE PENULTIMATE REPUBLIC 4HE CHAMBER MIGHT HAVE HAD ONE OF )TALYS MOST REMARKABLE DECORATIVE SCHEMES ,EONARDO DA 6INCI AND -ICHELANGELO WERE EMPLOYED TO PAINT FRESCOES ON OPPOSITE SIDES OF THE ROOM BUT ,EONARDOS WORK 4HE "ATTLE OF !NGHIARI WAS ABANDONED OR DESTROYED AFTER HIS EXPERI MENTAL TECHNIQUE WENT WRONG WHILE -ICHELANGELOS 4HE "ATTLE OF #ASCINA HAD GOT NO FURTHER THAN A FRAGMENTARY CARTOON WHEN HE WAS SUMMONED TO 2OME BY 0OPE *ULIUS )) IN )NSTEAD THE HALL RECEIVED SIX DREARILY BOMBASTIC MURALS n n PAINTED EITHER BY 6ASARI OR UNDER HIS DIRECTION n ILLUSTRAT ING &LORENTINE MILITARY TRIUMPHS OVER 0ISA n AND 3IENA n )T HAS GENERALLY BEEN ASSUMED THAT 6ASARI OBLITERATED WHATEVER REMAINED OF ,EONARDOS FRESCO BEFORE BEGINNING HIS WORK BUT THE DISCOVERY OF A CAVITY BEHIND 4HE "ATTLE OF -ARCIANO HAS RAISED THE POSSIBILITY THAT 6ASARI INSTEAD CONTRUCTED A FALSE WALL FOR HIS FRESCO TO PRESERVE HIS GREAT PREDECESSORS PAINT ING )NVESTIGATIONS ARE PROCEEDING 4HE CEILINGS PANELS AGAIN BY 6ASARI CELEBRATE THE !POTHEOSIS OF #OSIMO ) CENTRE A SCENE SURROUNDED BY THE CRESTS OF THE CITYS GUILDS AND FURTHER PAEANS TO THE PROWESS OF &LORENCE AND THE -EDICI /NE OF THE 0ERCORSI 3EGRETI TAKES YOU INTO THE ATTIC ABOVE THE ROOF AN EXTRAORDINARY SPACE WHERE ITS POSSIBLE TO SEE HOW 6ASARI PULLED OFF THE TRICK OF SUSPENDING SUCH A LARGE CEILING WITHOUT VISIBLE SUPPORTS 4HE SCULPTURAL HIGHLIGHT IS ,-/Ê "",
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4HE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIOS VARIOUS SO CALLED 0ERCORSI 3EGRETI h3ECRET 0ASSAGEWAYSv ALLOW ACCESS n ON GUIDED TOURS ONLY n TO PARTS OF THE BUILDING THAT ARE NORMALLY OFF LIMITS -OST VISUALLY IMPRESSIVE IS THE TRIP UP THROUGH THE PALACE AND INTO THE !TTIC OF THE 3ALONE DEL #INQUECENTO &ROM THE VANTAGE POINT OF A BALCONY HIGH ABOVE THE HALL THE GUIDE DESCRIBES THE COMPLEX WAY IN WHICH 6ASARI CREATED SUCH A HUGE SPACE WITHIN THE MEDIEVAL STRUCTURE AND EXPLAINS THE ALLEGORICAL MEANING OF THE PAINTINGS 9OU ARE THEN LED UP INTO THE VAST ATTIC ITSELF WHERE TWO SETS OF TRUSSES SUPPORT THE ROOF ABOVE AND THE CEILING BELOW 3OME OF THE BEAMS ARE OVER M LONG ,ESS MAGNIlCENT BUT STILL WORTH IT FOR THE GUIDES COMMENTARY IS THE ROUTE LEAD ING FROM THE STREET OUTSIDE UP THROUGH THE SECRET 3TAIRWAY OF THE $UKE OF !THENS 4HE DOORWAY WAS KNOCKED THROUGH THE EXTERIOR WALL OF THE 0ALAZZO IN AS AN EMERGENCY ESCAPE ROUTE FOR THE DUKE WHO BRIEmY TOOK UP THE REINS OF POWER HERE (E NEVER IN FACT USED THE STAIRCASE BUT ONLY BECAUSE HIS FALL FROM GRACE CAME RATHER SOONER THAN HE HAD IMAGINED !NOTHER 0ERCORSO 3EGRETO ALLOWS YOU INSIDE THE 3TUDIOLO DI &RANCESCO ) THEN THROUGH ONE OF THE HIDDEN DOORS AND UP A SECRET LITTLE STAIRCASE TO THE STUDIOLINO OR 4ESORETTO #OSIMOS TINY PRIVATE STUDY WHICH WAS BUILT TEN YEARS BEFORE THE STUDIOLO !LL THREE TOURS EACH COSTS + AND INCLUDES ADMISSION TO 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO LAST ROUGHLY AN HOUR FURTHER TOURS COST + 4HESE ARE NOT ACCESSIBLE FOR VISITORS IN WHEELCHAIRS 4OURS GO EVERY DAY IN )TALIAN &RENCH ANDOR %NGLISH BUT EXACTLY WHAT LANGUAGE THEY ARE CONDUCTED IN DEPENDS ON DEMAND SO IT IS WORTH ASKING ABOUT TOURS IN %NGLISH EITHER AT THE DESK BY THE TICKET OFlCE OR BY PHONE 'UIDES USUALLY TAKE ONE PARTY ON EACH 0ERCORSO 3EGRETO FROM -ONDAY TO &RIDAY AT AM AND AM ON 3ATURDAY AT PM PM AND PM AND ON 3UNDAY AT AM AM AND NOON THOUGH TIMES CHANGE FREQUENTLY AS A RULE THERES AT LEAST ONE %NGLISH LANGUAGE PARTY FOR EACH 0ERCORSO EVERY DAY &URTHER PERCORSI ARE PLANNED DEPENDING ON THE SUCCESS OF THE PRESENT TOURS
-ICHELANGELOS 6ICTORY ALMOST OPPOSITE THE ENTRANCE DOOR #ARVED FOR THE TOMB OF 0OPE *ULIUS )) THE STATUE WAS DONATED TO THE -EDICI BY THE ARTISTS NEPHEW THEN INSTALLED HERE BY 6ASARI IN TO CELEBRATE #OSIMOS DEFEAT OF THE 3IENESE TEN YEARS EARLIER $IRECTLY OPPOSITE ON THE ENTRANCE WALL IS THE ORIGINAL PLASTER MODEL OF A COMPANION PIECE FOR THE 6ICTORY 'IAMBOLOGNAS 6IRTUE /VERCOMING 6ICE ANOTHER ARTISTIC METAPHOR FOR &LORENTINE MILITARY MIGHT n THIS TIME &LORENCES VICTORY OVER 0ISA 4HE REMAINING STATUES THE MASTERPIECE OF SIXTEENTH CENTURY ARTIST 6INCENZO DE 2OSSI PORTRAY THE ,ABOURS OF (ERCULES AND ARE YET ANOTHER EXAMPLE OF &LORENTINE HEROIC PROPAGANDA THE INNOCUOUSLY CLASSICAL (ERCULES IS ALSO ONE OF &LORENCES MANY CIVIC SYMBOLS &ROM THE 3ALONE DEL #INQUECENTO A ROPED OFF DOOR ALLOWS A GLIMPSE OF THE STRANGEST ROOM IN THE BUILDING THE 3TUDIOLO DI &RANCESCO ) $ESIGNED BY 6ASARI TOWARDS THE END OF HIS CAREER AND DECORATED BY NO FEWER THAN THIRTY -ANNERIST ARTISTS n THIS WINDOWLESS CELL WAS CREATED AS A RETREAT FOR THE INTROVERTED SON OF #OSIMO AND %LEANOR %ACH OF THE MINIATURE BRONZES AND NEARLY ALL THE PAINTINGS REmECT &RANCESCOS INTEREST IN THE SCIENCES AND ALCHEMY THE ENTRANCE WALL PICTURES ILLUSTRATE THE THEME OF %ARTH WHILE THE OTHERS READING CLOCKWISE SIGNIFY 7ATER !IR AND &IRE 4HE OUTSTANDING PAINT INGS ARE THE TWO THAT DONT lT THE SCHEME "RONZINOS PORTRAITS OF THE OCCU PANTS PARENTS FACING EACH OTHER ACROSS THE ROOM 4HE OVAL PAINTINGS ON THE PANELS AT THE BASE HINTED AT THE PRESENCE OF &RANCESCOS MOST TREASURED KNICK
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KNACKS WHICH WERE ONCE CONCEALED IN THE COMPARTMENTS BEHIND THE WOODEN STRUCTURE IS ACTUALLY A NINE TEENTH CENTURY RE CREATION THOUGH THE PAINTINGS ARE ORIGINAL -UCH OF THE REST OF THIS mOOR IS STILL USED BY COUNCIL OFlCIALS THOUGH IF THE SEVEN ROOMS OF THE 1UARTIERE DI ,EONE 8 AND 3ALA DEI $UGEN TO ARE OPEN THEY RARELY ARE DONT MISS THE OPPORTUNITY 4HE LATTER IN PARTICULAR IS OUTSTANDING "ENEDETTO AND 'IULIANO DA -AIANO EXCELLENT SCULPTORS BOTH WERE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE DESIGN n AND FOR THE lNE WOODEN CEILING THE TAPESTRIES n WERE CREATED TO DESIGNS BY "RONZINO 0ONTORMO AND OTHERS
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%MOZIONI DA -USEO FROM + IS ANYTHING BUT A TRADITIONAL MUSEUM EXPERIENCE THOUGH THERES A WHIFF OF THE CLASSROOM ABOUT THE hINTERACTIVE WORKSHOPSv HELD IN ROOMS DOTTED AROUND THE PALACE 4HESE ARE AIMED MORE AT LOCAL RAGAZZI THAN VISITORS KIDS BUT SOME CLASSES ARE HELD IN %NGLISH USUALLY AT WEEKENDS -OST SATISFYING IS PERHAPS h#LOTHING AND THE "ODYv 'UIDES LEAD THE GROUP THROUGH A SECRET DOOR IN THE 3ALA DELLE #ARTE AND DOWN TO A VAULTED SPACE DOMINATED BY A FOUR POSTER BED IN WHICH AN ACTRESS PLAYING %LEONORA DI 4OLEDO LIES SLEEPING (ER MAID ENTERS AND GETS HER MISTRESS WASHED COMBED PRIMPED AND READY FOR THE DAY %LEONORA ENDS UP DRESSED EXACTLY AS IN "RONZINOS PORTRAIT IN THE 5FlZI -EANWHILE THEIR GOSSIPY CONVERSATION JOINED BY $UKE #OSIMO AND HIS SERVANT LEADS INTO A DISCUSSION THAT COMPARES CLOTHING AND ATTITUDES TO THE BODY NOW AND IN THE 2ENAIS SANCE %VEN WHEN THE ACTRESSES ARE SPEAKING )TALIAN %NGLISH SPEAKING GUIDES ARE ON HAND TO TRANSLATE )N h!RCHITECTURE OF THE 0ALAZZOv THE CHILDREN CREATE WALK UPON AND INEVITABLY DESTROY A LOAD BEARING ARCH MADE FROM SPECIAL BRICKS AND RECONSTRUCT A MODEL OF THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO IN ORDER TO SEE HOW IT WAS BUILT h4HE -AGIC OF ,ENSESv ALLOWS THE KIDS TO PLAY WITH VARIOUS LENSES LEARN ABOUT OPTICAL EFFECTS AND THEN PUT TOGETHER A BASIC TELESCOPE &ROM THE BASEMENT CLASSROOM ITS UP TO THE BALCONY OF THE PALACE TO TEST OUT DESIGNS PERFECTED BY 'ALILEO AMONG OTHERS -ORE SCIENTIlC STILL IS h(OR ROR 6ACUI v n h;.ATURE= ABHORS A VACUUM v n WHICH REPRODUCES THE EXPERIMENTS OF THE &LORENTINE MATHEMATICIAN 4ORRICELLI WHO PROVED THE EXISTENCE OF ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE /RGANIZED BY THE !SSOCIAZONE -USEO DEI 2AGAZZI DI &IRENZE %NCOUNTERS ARE GUIDED TOURS LED BY COSTUMED ACTORS THAT ARE AIMED AT BOTH CHILDREN AND ADULTS BUT PROBABLY WILL APPEAL MOST TO THE YOUNGSTERS 6ASARI HIMSELF LEADS A TOUR OF THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO 'ALILEO EXPLAINS HIS RADICAL INVENTIONS IN THE -USEO DI 3TORIA DELLA 3CIENZA AND 3ULEIMAN THE -AGNIlCENT TAKES A GROUP OF CAPTURED #HRISTIANS ROUND HIS ARMOURY IN THE -USEO 3TIBBERT $URING THE SCHOOL HOLIDAYS AT LEAST ONE TOUR A DAY IS NORMALLY GIVEN IN %NGLISH CALL TO BOOK
n THE LILY IS THE EMBLEM OF 3AINT :ENOBIUS AND OF THE 6IRGIN BOTH PATRON SAINTS OF &LORENCE 4HE ROOM HAS ANOTHER SPLENDID CEILING BY THE -AIANO BROTHERS AND A WALL FRESCOED BY $OMENICO 'HIRLANDAIO WITH 33 :ENOBIUS 3TEPHEN AND ,ORENZO n AND LUNETTES PORTRAYING 3IX (EROES OF !NCIENT 2OME 4HE UNDOUBTED HIGHLIGHT HERE HOWEVER IS $ONATELLOS ORIGINAL *UDITH AND (OLOFERNES n REMOVED FROM 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA 4WO SMALL ROOMS ARE ATTACHED TO THE 3ALA DEI 'IGLI THE #ANCELLERIA ONCE -ACHIAVELLIS OFlCE AND NOW CONTAINING A BUST AND PORTRAIT OF THE OFT MALIGNED POLITICAL THINKER AND THE LOVELY 3ALA DELLE #ARTE FORMERLY THE 'UARDAROBA 7ARDROBE THE REPOSITORY OF #OSIMOS STATE lNERY .OW IT IS DECORATED WITH MAPS PAINTED IN BY THE COURT ASTRONOMER &RA )GNAZIO $ANTI DEPICTING WHAT WAS THEN THE ENTIRE KNOWN WORLD /NE OF THE MAPS IN THE FAR RIGHT HAND CORNER CONCEALS A DOOR TO A HIDDEN STAIRCASE ! DOOR LEADS OUT FROM THE SECOND mOOR ONTO THE BROAD BALCONY OF THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIOS TOWER 4HE VIEWS ARE SUPERB IF NOT AS GOOD AS THOSE ENJOYED FROM THE CELL IN THE BODY OF THE TOWER ABOVE WHICH WAS KNOWN IRONICALLY AS THE !LBERGHINETTO ,ITTLE (OTEL SUCH TROUBLEMAKERS AS #OSIMO DE -EDICI AND 3AVONAROLA WERE ONCE IMPRISONED HERE 4HE lNAL SECTION OF THE MUSEUM JUST BEFORE THE EXIT IS SOMETHING OF AN AFTERTHOUGHT AND IS DEVOTED TO SECOND RATE PICTURES ONCE OWNED BY THE !MERICAN COLLECTOR ,OESER
4HE 5FlZI
/N THE GROUND mOOR IN ROOMS THAT ONCE FORMED PART OF THE ELEVENTH CENTURY CHURCH OF 3AN 0IER 3CHERAGGIO ARE SHOWN !NDREA DEL #ASTAGNOS FRESCOES OF CELEBRATED &LORENTINES THE IMAGINARY PORTRAITS INCLUDE $ANTE AND "OCCACCIO BOTH OF WHOM SPOKE IN DEBATES AT THE CHURCH #LOSE TO A "OTTICELLI !NNUNCIA TION A LIFT GOES UP TO THE GALLERIES IF YOU TAKE THE STAIRCASE INSTEAD YOULL PASS THE
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&LORENCE CAN PROMPT AN OVER EAGERNESS TO REACH FOR SUPERLATIVES IN THE CASE OF THE 'ALLERIA DEGLI 5FlZI THE SUPERLATIVES ARE SIMPLY THE BARE TRUTH THIS IS THE lNEST PICTURE GALLERY IN )TALY 3O MANY MASTERPIECES ARE COLLECTED HERE THAT ITS NOT EVEN POSSIBLE TO SKATE OVER THE SURFACE IN A SINGLE VISIT 4HOUGH YOU MAY NOT WANT TO EMULATE %DWARD 'IBBON WHO VISITED THE 5FlZI FOURTEEN TIMES ON A SINGLE TRIP TO &LORENCE IT MAKES SENSE TO LIMIT YOUR INITIAL TOUR TO THE lRST lFTEEN ROOMS WHERE THE &LORENTINE 2ENAISSANCE WORKS ARE CONCENTRATED AND TO EXPLORE THE REST ANOTHER TIME 4HE GALLERY IS HOUSED IN WHAT WERE ONCE GOVERNMENT OFlCES UFlZI BUILT BY 6ASARI FOR #OSIMO ) IN !FTER 6ASARIS DEATH WORK ON THE ELONGATED 5 SHAPED BUILDING WAS CONTINUED BY "UONTALENTI WHO WAS ASKED BY &RANCESCO ) TO GLAZE THE UPPER STOREY SO THAT IT COULD HOUSE HIS ART COLLECTION %ACH OF THE SUCCEEDING -EDICI ADDED TO THE FAMILYS TROVE OF ART TREASURES 4HE ACCU MULATED COLLECTION WAS PRESERVED FOR PUBLIC INSPECTION BY THE LAST MEMBER OF THE FAMILY !NNA -ARIA ,ODOVICA WHOSE WILL SPECIlED THAT IT SHOULD BE LEFT TO THE PEOPLE OF &LORENCE AND NEVER BE ALLOWED TO LEAVE THE CITY )N THE NINETEENTH CENTURY A LARGE PROPORTION OF THE STATUARY WAS TRANSFERRED TO THE "ARGELLO WHILE MOST OF THE ANTIQUITIES WENT TO THE -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO LEAV ING THE 5FlZI AS ESSENTIALLY A GALLERY OF PAINTINGS SUPPLEMENTED WITH SOME CLASSICAL SCULPTURES
5 4HE COURTYARD OF THE 5FlZI
5FFIZI PRACTICALITIES
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\ 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA AND THE 5FFIZI
4HE 5FlZI IS OPEN 4UESn3UN AMnPM IN HIGH SUMMER AND AT FESTIVE PERIODS IT SOMETIMES STAYS OPEN UNTIL PM 4HIS IS THE BUSIEST SINGLE BUILDING IN THE COUNTRY WITH OVER ONE AND A HALF MILLION VISITORS A YEAR SO DURING PEAK SEASON YOUVE ALMOST NO CHANCE OF GETTING IN WITHOUT PAYING THE + SURCHARGE FOR BOOKING A TICKET IN ADVANCE &OR NEXT DAY TICKETS THERES A RESERVATIONS DESK THAT OPENS AT AM AT $OOR AND HAS AN ALLOCATION OF JUST &OR RESERVATIONS FURTHER IN ADVANCE GO TO $OOR OR CALL THE &IRENZE -USEI LINE ON SEE P FOR MORE INFORMA TION )F YOUVE BOOKED BY PHONE MAKE SURE YOU ARRIVE WELL BEFORE THE ALLOCATED ADMISSION TIME AS THERES OFTEN A SUBSTANTIAL QUEUE JUST TO COLLECT TICKETS &ULL ADMISSION COSTS + BUT %5 CITIZENS AGED n PAY HALF PRICE AND ENTRY IS FREE TO UNDER S AND OVER S 9OU SHOULD BE AWARE THAT ITS VERY RARE FOR THE WHOLE 5FlZI TO BE OPEN A BOARD BY THE ENTRANCE TELLS YOU WHICH SECTIONS ARE CLOSED )N IT WAS ANNOUNCED THAT OVER THE NEXT FEW YEARS THE 5FlZI WOULD BE DOUBLING THE NUMBER OF ROOMS OPEN TO THE PUBLIC IN ORDER TO SHOW SOME WORKS THAT HAVE USUALLY BEEN KEPT IN STORAGE WORK ON THE EXHIBITION SPACES SHOULD SOON BE STARTING WHICH WILL INEVITABLY MEAN THAT SOME PICTURES WILL NOT BE ON SHOW PRECISELY WHERE THEY APPEAR IN THE FOLLOWING ACCOUNT
ENTRANCE TO THE PRINTS AND DRAWINGS COLLECTION THE BULK OF WHICH IS RESERVED FOR SCHOLARLY SCRUTINY THOUGH SAMPLES ARE OFTEN ON PUBLIC SHOW 5PSTAIRS ALL THE ROOMS LEAD OFF THE STATUE LINED MONUMENTAL CORRIDOR THAT RUNS ROUND THE BUILDING 2OOM HOUSING AN ASSEMBLY OF ANTIQUE SCULPTURES MANY OF WHICH WERE USED AS A KIND OF SOURCE BOOK BY 2ENAISSANCE ARTISTS IS OFTEN SHUT 4HE BEGINNINGS OF THE STYLISTIC EVOLUTION OF THAT PERIOD CAN BE TRACED IN THE THREE ALTARPIECES OF THE -AESTÌ -ADONNA %NTHRONED THAT DOMINATE 2OOM THE -ADONNA 2UCELLAI -AESTÌ DI 3ANTA 4RÖNITA AND -ADONNA D/GNISSANTI BY $UCCIO #IMABUE AND 'IOTTO RESPECTIVELY 4HESE GREAT WORKS WHICH DWARF EVERYTHING AROUND THEM SHOW THE SOFTENING OF THE HIERATIC "YZANTINE STYLE INTO A MORE TACTILE FORM OF REPRESENTATION 0AINTERS FROM FOURTEENTH CENTURY 3IENA lLL 2OOM WITH SEVERAL PIECES BY !MBROGIO AND 0IETRO ,ORENZETTI AND 3IMONE -ARTINIS GLORIOUS !NNUNCIATION THE 6IRGIN COWERING FROM THE ANGEL AMID A lELD OF PURE GOLD /THER TRECENTO ARTISTS FOLLOW IN 2OOMS AND AMONG THEM &LORENCES lRST RANK 'OTHIC PAINTERS /RCAGNA AND ,ORENZO -ONACO WHOSE MAJESTIC #ORONATION OF THE 6IRGIN CATCHES THE EYE lRST 4HE !DORATION OF THE -AGI BY 'EN TILE DA &ABRIANO IS THE SUMMIT OF THE PRECIOUS STYLE KNOWN AS )NTERNATIONAL 'OTHIC SPANGLED WITH GOLD SO THICK IN PLACES THAT THE CROWNS OF THE KINGS FOR INSTANCE ARE LIKE LOW RELIEF JEWELLERY 4HE RIGHT HAND PANEL OF THE PREDELLA BELOW WAS STOLEN BY .APOLEON AND REPLACED WITH A COPY WHICH UNLIKE THE REST OF THE PAINTING IS NOT PAINTED DIRECTLY ONTO GOLD n HENCE THE RELATIVE MATT DULL NESS OF ITS SURFACE .EARBY IS THE 4HEBAID A BEGUILING LITTLE NARRATIVE THAT DEPICTS MONASTIC LIFE IN THE %GYPTIAN DESERT AS A SORT OF HOLY FAIRYTALE THOUGH SOMETIMES ASSIGNED TO THE YOUNG &RA !NGELICO ITS MORE GENERALLY THOUGHT TO BE BY THE NOW OBSCURE 'HERARDO DI *ACOPO 3TARNINA 'OTHIC GOLDS ARE LEFT BEHIND IN 2OOM WHICH REVEALS THE SHEER DIVERSITY OF EARLY 2ENAISSANCE PAINTING 0AOLO 5CCELLOS 4HE "ATTLE OF 3AN 2OMANO ONCE HUNG IN ,ORENZO THE -AGNIlCENTS BEDCHAMBER IN COMPANY WITH ITS TWO COM PANION PIECES NOW IN THE ,OUVRE AND ,ONDONS .ATIONAL 'ALLERY 7ARFARE IS THE OSTENSIBLE SUBJECT BUT THIS IS REALLY A SEMI ABSTRACT COMPENDIUM OF PERSPECTIVAL EFFECTS n A TOPPLING KNIGHT A HORSE AND RIDER KEELED ONTO THEIR SIDES THE FORE SHORTENED LEGS OF A KICKING STEED A THICKET OF LANCES n CREATING A lGHT SCENE
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WITH NO REAL SENSE OF VIOLENCE 4HE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 33 &RANCIS *OHN THE "APTIST :ENOBIUS AND ,UCY IS ONE OF ONLY TWELVE EXTANT PAINTINGS BY $OMENICO 6ENEZIANO WHO SPENT MUCH OF HIS LIFE IN 6ENICE BUT DIED DESTITUTE IN &LORENCE 6ENEZIANOS GREATEST PUPIL 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCA IS REPRESENTED IN 2OOM BY THE PAIRED PORTRAITS OF &EDERICO DA -ONTEFELTRO AND "ATTISTA 3FORZA THE DUKE AND DUCHESS OF 5RBINO 4HESE PANELS WERE PAINTED TWO YEARS AFTER "ATTISTAS DEATH IN THE BACKGROUND OF HER PORTRAIT IS THE TOWN OF 'UBBIO WHERE SHE DIED GIVING BIRTH TO HER NINTH CHILD AND ONLY SON 'UIDOBALDO -OST SPACE IN 2OOM IS GIVEN OVER TO &ILIPPO ,IPPI WHOSE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 4WO !NGELS SUPPLIES ONE OF THE GALLERYS MOST POPULAR FACES AND ONE OF ITS LEAST OTHERWORLDLY DEVOTIONAL IMAGES THE MODEL WAS ,UCREZIA "UTI A CONVENT NOVICE WHO BECAME THE MOTHER OF THE APTLY NAMED &IL IPPINO h,ITTLE 0HILIPv ,IPPI WHOSE LUSTROUS -ADONNA DEGLI /TTO SHOWS THE LATER INmUENCE OF ,EONARDO
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,IPPIS PUPIL "OTTICELLI STEALS SOME OF THE THUNDER IN 2OOM WHERE THE ARTISTS CENTRE STAGE ARE 0IERO AND !NTONIO DEL 0OLLAIUOLO THEIR SINEWY 33 6INCENT *AMES AND %USTACE ONE OF THEIR BEST WORKS IS CHIEmY THE WORK OF !NTONIO 4HIS ROOM ALSO CONTAINS THE 0ORTRAIT OF 9OUNG -AN IN A 2ED (AT SOMETIMES REFERRED TO AS A SELF PORTRAIT BY &ILIPPINO BUT NOW WIDELY BELIEVED TO BE AN EIGHTEENTH CENTURY FRAUD )TS IN THE MERGED 2OOMS n THAT THE GREATEST OF "OTTICELLIS PRODUCTIONS ARE GATHERED ! CENTURY AGO MOST PEOPLE WALKED PAST HIS PICTURES WITHOUT BREAK ING STRIDE NOWADAYS n DESPITE THEIR ELUSIVENESS n THE 0RIMAVERA AND THE "IRTH OF 6ENUS STOP ALL VISITORS IN THEIR TRACKS 4HE IDENTITIES OF THE CHARACTERS IN THE 0RIMAVERA ARE NOT CONTENTIOUS ON THE RIGHT :EPHYRUS GOD OF THE WEST WIND CHASES THE NYMPH #LORIS WHO IS THEN TRANSlGURED INTO &LORA THE PREGNANT GODDESS OF SPRING 6ENUS STANDS IN THE CENTRE TO THE SIDE OF THE THREE 'RACES WHO ARE TARGETED BY #UPID ON THE LEFT -ERCURY WARDS OFF THE CLOUDS OF WINTER 7HAT THIS ALL MEANS HOWEVER HAS OCCUPIED SCHOLARS FOR DECADES 3OME SEE IT AS AN ALLEGORY OF THE FOUR SEASONS BUT THE CONSENSUS NOW SEEMS TO BE THAT IT SHOWS THE TRIUMPH OF 6ENUS WITH THE 'RACES AS THE PHYSICAL EMBODIMENT OF HER BEAUTY AND &LORA THE SYMBOL OF HER FRUITFULNESS n AN INTERPRETATION SUPPORTED BY THE FACT THAT THE PICTURE WAS PLACED OUTSIDE THE WEDDING SUITE OF ,ORENZO DI 0IERFRANCESCO DE -EDICI "OTTICELLIS MOST WINSOME PAINTING THE "IRTH OF 6ENUS PROBABLY TAKES AS ITS SOURCE THE MYTH THAT THE GODDESS EMERGED FROM THE SEA AFTER IT HAD BEEN
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IMPREGNATED BY THE CASTRATION OF 5RANUS AN ALLEGORY FOR THE CREATION OF BEAUTY THROUGH THE MINGLING OF THE SPIRIT 5RANUS AND THE PHYSICAL WORLD 4HE SUP PORTING PLAYERS ARE THE NYMPH #LORIS AND :EPHYRUS GOD OF THE WEST WIND :EPHYRUS BLOWS THE RISEN 6ENUS TO THE SHORE WHERE THE GODDESS IS CLOTHED BY (ORA DAUGHTER AND ATTENDANT OF !URORA GODDESS OF DAWN ! THIRD ALLEGORY HANGS CLOSE BY 0ALLAS AND THE #ENTAUR PERHAPS SYMBOLIZING THE AMBIVALENT TRIUMPH OF REASON OVER INSTINCT )NCIDENTALLY THE "IRTH OF 6ENUS WAS ONE OF THE lRST LARGE SCALE WORKS TO BE PAINTED ONTO CANVAS "OTTICELLIS DEVOTIONAL PAINTINGS ARE GENERALLY LESS PERPLEXING 4HE !DORATION OF THE -AGI IS TRADITIONALLY THOUGHT TO CONTAIN A GALLERY OF -EDICI PORTRAITS #OSIMO IL 6ECCHIO AS THE lRST KING HIS SONS 'IOVANNI AND 0IERO AS THE OTHER TWO KINGS ,ORENZO THE -AGNIlCENT ON THE FAR LEFT AND HIS BROTHER 'IULIANO AS THE BLACK HAIRED YOUNG MAN IN PROlLE ON THE RIGHT /NLY THE IDENTIlCATION OF #OSIMO IS REASONABLY CERTAIN ALONG WITH THAT OF "OTTICELLI HIMSELF ON THE RIGHT IN THE YELLOW ROBE )N LATER LIFE INmUENCED BY 3AVONAROLAS TEACHING "OTTICELLI CONlNED HIMSELF TO DEVOTIONAL PICTURES AND MORAL FABLES AND HIS STYLE BECAME INCREAS INGLY SEVERE AND DIDACTIC 4HE TRANSFORMATION IS CLEAR WHEN COMPARING THE EASY GRACE OF THE -ADONNA OF THE -AGNIlCAT AND THE -ADONNA OF THE 0OMEGRANATE WITH THE MORE RIGIDLY COMPOSED 0ALA DI 3ANT!MBROGIO OR THE ANGULAR AND AGITATED #ALUMNY %VEN THE !NNUNCIATION PAINTED JUST AS 3AVONAROLAS PREACHING BEGAN TO GRIP &LORENCE REVEALS A NEW INTENSITY IN THE EXPRESSION OF THE ANGEL AND IN THE TWISTING TREATMENT OF THE BODY OF THE 6IRGIN WHO APPEARS ALMOST BLOWN BACK BY THE FORCE OF THE MESSAGE .OT QUITE EVERY MASTERPIECE IN THIS ROOM IS BY "OTTICELLI 3ET AWAY FROM THE WALLS IS THE !DORATION OF THE 3HEPHERDS BY HIS &LEMISH CONTEMPORARY (UGO VAN DER 'OES "ROUGHT TO &LORENCE IN BY 4OMMASO 0ORTINARI THE -EDICI AGENT IN "RUGES IT PROVIDED THE CITYS ARTISTS WITH THEIR lRST LARGE SCALE DEM ONSTRATION OF THE REALISM OF NORTHERN %UROPEAN OIL PAINTING AND HAD A GREAT INmUENCE ON THE WAY THE MEDIUM WAS EXPLOITED HERE 7ORKS IN 2OOM TRACE THE FORMATIVE YEARS OF ,EONARDO DA 6INCI WHOSE DISTINCTIVE TOUCH APPEARS lRST IN THE "APTISM OF #HRIST IN ROOM BY HIS MAS TER 6ERROCCHIO 6ASARI CLAIMED THAT ONLY THE WISTFUL ANGEL IN PROlLE WAS BY THE YEAR OLD APPRENTICE AND THE MISTY LANDSCAPE IN THE BACKGROUND BUT RECENT 8 RAYS HAVE REVEALED THAT ,EONARDO ALSO WORKED HEAVILY ON THE lGURE OF #HRIST ! SIMILAR TERRAIN OF SOFT FOCUS MOUNTAINS AND WATER OCCUPIES THE FAR DISTANCE IN ,EONARDOS SLIGHTLY LATER !NNUNCIATION IN WHICH A DIFFUSED LIGHT FALLS ON A SCENE WHERE EVERYTHING IS OBSERVED WITH A SCIENTISTS PRECISION THE PETALS OF THE mOWERS ON WHICH THE ANGEL ALIGHTS THE FALL OF THE 6IRGINS DRAPERY THE CARVING ON THE LECTERN AT WHICH SHE READS )N RESTLESS CONTRAST TO THE ARISTOCRATIC POISE OF THE !NNUNCIATION THE SKETCH OF 4HE !DORATION OF THE -AGI n ABANDONED WHEN ,EONARDO LEFT &LORENCE FOR -ILAN IN EARLY n PRESENTS THE INFANT #HRIST AS THE EYE OF A VORTEX OF lGURES ALL DRAWN INTO HIS PRESENCE BY A FORCE AS IRRESIST IBLE AS A WHIRLPOOL -OST OF THE REST OF THE ROOM IS GIVEN OVER TO 2APHAELS TEACHER 0ERUGINO WHO IS REPRESENTED BY A TYPICALLY CONTEMPLATIVE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 3AINTS AND A MEDITATIVE 0IETÌ n )T ALSO CONTAINS A BIZARRE )NCARNATION BY 0IERO DI #OSIMO THE WILD MAN OF THE &LORENTINE 2ENAISSANCE 3HUNNING CIVILIZED COMPANY 0IERO DID EVERYTHING HE COULD TO BRING HIS LIFE CLOSE TO A STATE OF UNCOMPROMISED NATURE LIVING IN A HOUSE THAT WAS NEVER CLEANED IN THE MIDST OF A GARDEN HE REFUSED TO TEND AND EATING NOTHING BUT HARD BOILED EGGS (IS WILDNESS IS MOST OBVIOUSLY REALIZED IN THE NIGHTMARISH 0ERSEUS &REEING !NDROMEDA WHERE EVEN THE ROCKS AND THE SEA SEEM TO TWIST AND BOIL MONSTROUSLY
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2OOM THE OCTAGONAL 4RIBUNA NOW HOUSES THE MOST IMPORTANT OF THE -EDICIS COLLECTION OF CLASSICAL SCULPTURES CHIEF AMONG WHICH IS THE -EDICI 6ENUS A lRST CENTURY "# COPY OF THE 0RAXITELEAN !PHRODITE OF #NIDOS 3HE WAS KEPT IN THE 6ILLA -EDICI IN 2OME UNTIL #OSIMO ))) BEGAN TO FRET THAT SHE WAS HAVING A DETRIMENTAL EFFECT ON THE MORALS OF THE CITYS ART STUDENTS AND ORDERED HER REMOVAL TO &LORENCE 4HE MOVE CLEARLY DIDNT AFFECT THE STATUES SEXUAL CHARISMA HOWEVER IT BECAME TRADITIONAL FOR EIGHTEENTH CENTURY VISITORS TO &LORENCE TO CARESS HER BUTTOCKS !ROUND THE WALLS ARE HUNG SOME FASCINATING PORTRAITS BY "RONZINO #OSIMO DE -EDICI %LEANORA OF 4OLEDO "ARTOLOMEO 0ANCIATICHI AND HIS WIFE ,UCREZIA 0ANCIATICHI ALL PAINTED AS lGURES OF PORCELAIN PLACED IN A BLOODLESS SUNLESS WORLD -ORE VITAL IS !NDREA DEL 3ARTOS mIRTATIOUS 2ITRATTO D)GNOTA 0ORTRAIT OF A 9OUNG 7OMAN AND THERES A DECEPTIVE NATURALISM TO 6ASARIS PORTRAIT OF ,ORENZO THE -AGNIlCENT AND 0ONTORMOS OF #OSIMO IL 6ECCHIO BOTH PAINTED LONG AFTER THE DEATH OF THEIR SUBJECTS 4HE LAST SECTION OF THIS WING THROWS TOGETHER 2ENAISSANCE PAINTINGS FROM OUTSIDE &LORENCE WITH SOME NOTABLE 6ENETIAN AND &LEMISH WORKS 3IGNORELLI AND 0ERUGINO n WITH SOME PHOTO SHARP PORTRAITS n ARE THE PRINCIPAL ARTISTS IN 2OOM AND AFTER THEM COMES A ROOM LARGELY DEVOTED TO #RANACH AND $àRER %ACH HAS AN !DAM AND %VE HERE $àRER TAKING THE OPPORTUNITY TO SHOW OFF HIS PROlCIENCY AS A PAINTER OF WILDLIFE $àRERS POWER AS A PORTRAITIST IS DISPLAYED IN THE 0ORTRAIT OF THE !RTISTS &ATHER HIS EARLIEST AUTHENTICATED PAINTING AND #RANACH HAS A COUPLE OF ACUTE PICTURES OF ,UTHER ON DISPLAY ONE OF THEM A DOUBLE WITH HIS WIFE ! TASTE OF THE 5FlZIS REMARKABLE COLLECTION OF 6ENETIAN PAINTING FOLLOWS WITH AN IMPENETRABLE 3ACRED !LLEGORY BY 'IOVANNI "ELLINI AND THREE RARE WORKS BY 'IORGIONE IF YOU ACCEPT THE ATTRIBUTION OF THE MESMERIZING PORTRAIT OF A YOUNG SOLDIER TRADITIONALLY KNOWN AS THE 'ATTEMELATA ! CLUTCH OF NORTHERN %UROPEAN PAINTINGS IS CHIEmY NOTABLE FOR (OLBEINS 0ORTRAIT OF 3IR 2ICHARD 3OUTH WELL WHILE A CRYSTALLINE TRIPTYCH BY -ANTEGNA IN 2OOM IS NOT IN FACT A REAL TRIPTYCH BUT RATHER A TRIO OF SMALL PAINTINGS SHACKLED TOGETHER 4O THE SIDE ARE A COUPLE OF OTHER PICTURES BY -ANTEGNA n A SWARTHY PORTRAIT OF #ARLO DE -EDICI AND THE TINY -ADONNA OF THE 3TONECUTTERS SET AGAINST A MOUNTAIN THAT LOOKS LIKE A GIGANTIC lR CONE 2OOMS TO
"EYOND THE STOCKPILE OF STATUES IN THE SHORT CORRIDOR OVERLOOKING THE !RNO THE MAIN ATTRACTION IN 2OOM IS -ICHELANGELOS $ONI 4ONDO THE ONLY EASEL PAINTING HE CAME CLOSE TO COMPLETING .OBODY HAS YET EXPLAINED THE PRECISE SIGNIlCANCE OF EVERY ASPECT OF THIS PICTURE BUT PLAUSIBLE EXPLANATIONS FOR PARTS OF IT HAVE BEEN PUT FORWARD 4HE lVE NAKED lGURES BEHIND THE (OLY &AMILY SEEM TO BE STANDING IN A HALF MOON SHAPED CISTERN OR FONT WHICH WOULD RELATE TO THE INFANT "APTIST TO THE RIGHT WHO n IN THE WORDS OF 3T 0AUL n PRElGURES THE COMING OF #HRIST JUST AS THE NEW MOON IS hA SHADOW OF THINGS TO COMEv )N THE SAME EPISTLE 0AUL GOES ON TO COMMEND THE VIRTUES OF MERCY BENIGNITY HUMILITY MODESTY AND PATIENCE WHICH ARE PERHAPS WHAT THE lVE YOUTHS REPRESENT 2OOM CONTAINS !NDREA DEL 3ARTOS SULTRY -ADONNA OF THE (ARPIES AND A NUMBER OF COMPOSITIONS BY 2APHAEL INCLUDING THE LOVELY -ADONNA OF THE 'OLDlNCH AND THE LATE 0OPE ,EO 8 WITH #ARDINALS 'IULIO DE -EDICI AND ,UIGI DE 2OSSI n AS SHIFTY A GROUP OF ECCLESIASTICS AS WAS EVER GATHERED IN ONE FRAME 4HE -ICHELANGELO TONDOS CONTORTED GESTURES HERMETIC MEANING AND VIRULENT COL OURS WERE GREATLY INmUENTIAL ON THE -ANNERIST PAINTERS OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY AS CAN BE GAUGED FROM -OSES $EFENDING THE $AUGHTERS OF *ETHRO BY 2OSSO &IOREN
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\ 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA AND THE 5FFIZI
TINO ONE OF THE SEMINAL lGURES OF THE PERIOD WHOSE WORKS HANG IN 2OOM ALONG WITH TWO MAJOR RELIGIOUS WORKS BY "RONZINO AND HIS ADOPTIVE FATHER 0ONTORMO n ONE OF THE VERY FEW PAINTERS NOT SEEN AT HIS BEST IN THE 5FlZI 2OOM IS ENTIRELY GIVEN OVER TO ANOTHER OF THE TITANIC lGURES OF SIXTEENTH CENTURY ART 4ITIAN WITH NINE PAINTINGS ON SHOW (IS &LORA AND ! +NIGHT OF -ALTA ARE STUNNING BUT MOST EYES TEND TO SWIVEL TOWARDS THE 5RBINO 6ENUS THE MOST mESHY AND PROVOCATIVE OF ALL 2ENAISSANCE NUDES DESCRIBED BY -ARK 4WAIN AS hTHE FOULEST THE VILEST THE OBSCENEST PICTURE THE WORLD POSSESSESv ! BRIEF DIVERSION THROUGH THE PAINTERS OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY %MILIAN SCHOOL FOLLOWS CENTRED ON 0ARMIGIANINO WHOSE -ADONNA OF THE ,ONG .ECK IS ONE OF THE PIVOTAL -ANNERIST CREATIONS 0ARMIGIANINO WAS A FEBRILE AND INTROVERTED CHARACTER WHO ABANDONED PAINTING FOR ALCHEMY TOWARDS THE END OF HIS SHORT LIFE AND MANY OF HIS WORKS ARE MARKED BY A SORT OF MORBID RElNEMENT NONE MORE SO THAN THIS ONE 4HE -ADONNAS TUNIC CLINGS TO EVERY CONTOUR AN ANGEL ADVANCES A PERFECTLY TURNED LEG THE INFANT #HRIST DRAPES HIMSELF LANGUOROUSLY ON HIS MOTHERS LAP n PRElGURING THE DEAD #HRIST OF THE 0IETÌ n WHILE IN THE BACKGROUND AN EMACIATED lGURE UNROLLS A SCROLL OF PARCHMENT BY A COLONNADE SO SEVERELY FORESHORTENED THAT IT LOOKS LIKE A SINGLE COLUMN 2OOMS TO
2OOMS TO FEATURE ARTISTS FROM 6ENICE AND THE 6ENETO WITH OUTSTANDING PAINTINGS SUCH AS -ORONIS 0ORTRAIT OF #OUNT 0IETRO 3ECCO 3UARDI 0AOLO 6ERONESES !NNUNCIATION AND (OLY &AMILY WITH 3T "ARBARA AND 4INTORETTOS ,EDA 3EBASTIANO DEL 0IOMBOS $EATH OF !DONIS WAS REDUCED TO LITTLE MORE THAN POSTAGE STAMP TATTERS BY THE BOMB THAT WRECKED PART OF THE 5FlZI IN THE RESTORATION IS LITTLE SHORT OF MIRACULOUS 2OOM ENTERED OFF THE MAIN CORRIDOR IS DOMINATED BY 2UBENS AND 6AN $YCK 4HE FORMERS 0ORTRAIT OF )SABELLA "RANDT MAKES ITS POINT MORE QUI ETLY THAN MOST OF THE STUFF AROUND IT 2UBENS LETS RIP IN (ENRY )6 AT THE "ATTLE OF )VRY AND 4HE 4RIUMPHAL %NTRY OF (ENRY )6 INTO 0ARIS n (ENRYS MARRIAGE TO -ARIE DE -EDICI IS THE CONNECTION WITH &LORENCE 2UBENSS EQUALLY HISTRIONIC CONTEMPORARY #ARAVAGGIO HAS A CLUSTER OF PIECES IN 2OOM INCLUDING A SCREAMING SEVERED HEAD OF -EDUSA A SMUG LITTLE "ACCHUS AND A THROAT GRABBING 3ACRIlCE OF )SAAC !LONGSIDE 2OOM IS IN EFFECT A SHOWCASE FOR THE PORTRAITURE OF 2EM BRANDT (IS SORROW LADEN 3ELF 0ORTRAIT AS AN /LD -AN PAINTED lVE YEARS OR SO BEFORE HIS DEATH MAKES A POIGNANT CONTRAST WITH THE SELF CONlDENT SELF PORTRAIT OF THIRTY YEARS EARLIER !LTHOUGH THERE ARE SOME GOOD PIECES FROM 4IEPOLO PORTRAITS AGAIN COMMAND THE ATTENTION IN THE FOLLOWING ROOM OF EIGHTEENTH CENTURY WORKS ESPECIALLY THE TWO OF -ARIA 4HERESA PAINTED BY 'OYA AND #HARDINS DEMURE CHILDREN AT PLAY /N THE WAY OUT IN THE HALL AT THE TOP OF THE EXIT STAIRS SQUATS ONE OF THE CITYS TALISMANS THE 7ILD "OAR A 2OMAN COPY OF A THIRD CENTURY "# (ELLENISTIC SCULPTURE IT WAS THE MODEL FOR THE 0ORCELLINO FOUNTAIN IN THE -ERCATO .UOVO 4HE #ORRIDOIO 6ASARIANO
! DOOR ON THE WEST CORRIDOR BETWEEN ROOMS AND OPENS ONTO THE #OR RIDOIO 6ASARIANO A PASSAGEWAY BUILT BY 6ASARI IN TO LINK THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO TO THE 0ALAZZO 0ITTI THROUGH THE 5FlZI 7INDING ITS WAY DOWN TO THE RIVER OVER THE 0ONTE 6ECCHIO THROUGH THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA &ELÖCITA AND INTO THE 'IARDINO DI "ØBOLI IT GIVES A FASCINATING SERIES OF CLANDESTINE VIEWS OF THE CITY !S IF THAT WERENT PLEASURE ENOUGH THE CORRIDOR IS COMPLETELY LINED WITH PAINT INGS THE LARGER PORTION OF WHICH COMPRISES A GALLERY OF SELF PORTRAITS /NCE
-ICHELANGELO -ICHELANGELOªSPENTªMUCHªOFªHISªLIFEªINª2OME ªANDªTWOªOFª HISªGREATESTªMASTERPIECESªnªTHEª3ISTINEª#HAPELªFRESCOESªANDª THEª0IETĐªINª3Tª0ETERSªnªAREªTOªBEªSEENªINªTHATªCITY ªYETª&LORENCEª ISªTHEªPLACEªWHEREªYOUªCANªBESTªAPPRECIATEªTHEªEXTRAORDINARYª SCOPEªOFªHISªACHIEVEMENT ªBECAUSEªTHEªCITYªPOSSESSESªCREATIONSª FROMªEVERYªPHASEªOFªHISªLIFEªANDªINªEVERYªGENREªINªWHICHªHEªEXCELLEDª nªPAINTING ªSCULPTUREªANDªARCHITECTUREªANDªHEªWASªALSOªAªlNEªPOET ª -OREOVER ªTHOUGHªSTONE CARVINGªWASªPERCEIVEDªBYªMANYªOFª-ICHELANGELOSª CONTEMPORARIESªINCLUDINGªHISªFATHER ªASªTHEªLEASTªDIGNIlEDªOFªTHEªARTS ª -ICHELANGELOªALWAYSªREGARDEDªHIMSELFªPRIMARILYªASªAªSCULPTOR ªANDª&LORENCEªHASª THEªWORLDSªlNESTªCOLLECTIONªOFªHISªSCULPTURALªWORK
&BSMZZFBST -ICHELANGELOª "UONARROTIª WASª BORNª ONª -ARCHª ª ª INª #APRESE ª INª EASTERNª 4USCANY ª THEª SECONDªSONªOFª&RANCESCAªDIª.ERIªWHOªWASªTOªDIEªJUSTªSIXªYEARSªLATER ªANDª,ODOVICOªDIª,EONARDOª "UONARROTIª3IMONI ªTHEªTOWNSªQPEFTU˪CHIEFªMAGISTRATE ª/NEªMONTHªLATER ªTHEªFAMILYªMOVEDªTOª &LORENCE ªWHERE ªINª ª-ICHELANGELOªWASªAPPRENTICEDªTOªTHEªPAINTERSª$AVIDEªANDª$OMENICOª 'HIRLANDAIOª ,ITTLEª ISª KNOWNª ABOUTª HOWª -ICHELANGELOª LEARNEDª TOª CARVEª 6ASARIª WRITESª THATª HEª TRAINEDªASªAªSCULPTORªWITHª"ERTALDOªDIª'IOVANNIªAªPUPILªOFª$ONATELLOªANDªAªPROTġGġªOFªTHEª-EDICI ª BUTª -ICHELANGELOª ALWAYSª INSISTEDª THATª HEª WASª SELF TAUGHTª 7HATSª CERTAINª ISª THATª HISª lRSTª STONEª RELIEFSª WEREª MADEªFORª,ORENZOªDEª-EDICI ª TOª WHOMª HEª WASª INTRODUCEDª BYª THEª 'HIRLANDAIOª BROTHERSª ANDª INª WHOSEª HOUSEHOLDª HEª LIVEDª FROMª ª TOª ª )Nª THEª #ASAª "UONARROTIª YOUª CANª SEEª TWOª PIECESª FROMª THISª PERIODª THEª #BUUMF PG UIF -BQJUIT BOE $FOUBVST ª WHICHª DEPICTSª Aª SUBJECTª PROPOSEDª BYª 0OLIZIANOª ONEª OFª THEª NEO 0LATONISTª SCHOLARSª OFª THEª -EDICIª ENTOURAGE ª ANDª THEª .BEPOOB PG UIF 4UBJST ª WHICHªSHOWSªTHEªINmUENCEªOFª $ONATELLOSª METHODSª OFª RELIEFª "ATTLE«OF«THE«,APITHS«AND«#ENTAURS CARVINGª
5IFnJHIUUP3PNFoBOESFUVSOUP'MPSFODF )Nª /CTOBERª ª ASª THEª &RENCHª INVADEDª )TALY ª -ICHELANGELOª mEDª &LORENCEª nª Aª MONTHª BEFOREª THEªEXPULSIONªOFªTHEª-EDICIª(ISªJOURNEYªTOOKªHIMªTOª"OLOGNA ª6ENICE ª BACKª TOª "OLOGNAª ANDª THENCEª BRIEmYª BACKª TOª &LORENCE ª BEFOREª ARRIVINGª INª 2OMEª INª ª 4HEREª HEª CARVEDª THEª #BDDIVT THATSª NOWª INª THEª "ARGELLO ª Aª PSEUDO ANTIQUEª STATUEª OFªSUCHªBRILLIANCEªTHATªITªWASªTAKENªBYªSOMEªTOªBEª Aª GENUINEª RELICª OFª ANCIENTª 2OMEª "Yª THEª SPRINGª OFª ª HEª HADª COMPLETEDª THEª 1JFU˪ FORª 3Tª 0ETERS ª Aª WORKª THATª DElNITIVELYª SECUREDª HISª REPUTATIONª ASª THEª PRE EMINENTª SCULPTORª OFª HISªDAYª -EANWHILE ª THEª &LORENTINEª REPUBLICª HADª BECOMEª MOREª PEACEABLEª AFTERª THEª OVERTHROWª OFª 3AVONAROLA ª ANDª INª ª -ICHELANGELOª WENTª BACKª TOª HISª HOMEª CITY ª WHEREª HEª WASª PROMPTLYª COMMISSIONEDª TOª CREATEª THEª %BWJE ª ANDª THENª Aª SEQUENCEª OFª !POSTLESª FORª THEª $UOMO ª OFª WHICHª ONLYª THEª 4U .BUUIFX NOWª INª THEª !CCADEMIA ª WITHª %BWJE ª WASª STARTEDª 4HEª LATTER ª INª WHICHª THEª $ONI«4ONDO
lGUREª SEEMSª TOª BEª TWISTINGª ITSELFª FREEª FROMª THEª STONE ª HASª BEENª INTERPRETEDª ASª MARKINGª THEª EMERGENCEª OFª Aª NEWª HEROICª EXPRESSIVITYª INª -ICHELANGELOSª ARTª SOMEª WOULDª HAVEª YOUª SEEª ITª ASª Aª METAPHORª FORª THEª IMPRISONMENTª OFª THEªSOULªINªTHEªBODY ªBUTªINTERPRETATIONªOFªTHISª UNlNISHEDª WORK ª ASª WITHª HISª OTHERª UNlNISHEDª WORKS ª ISª HIGHLYª PROBLEMATICª 3IMILARLY ª THEª PRECISEª MEANINGª OFª EVERYª FEATUREª OFª THEª %POJ 5POEPª n ª nª ONEª OFª HISª VERYª FEWª FORAYSª INTOªWHATªHEªREGARDEDªASªTHEªMENIALªARTªOFªEASELª PAINTINGªnªISªELUSIVE ªBUTªTHEªPICTUREªEXEMPLIlESª MANYª CHARACTERISTICSª UNIQUEª TOª THISª PAINTERª THEª COMPLEXª ANDª PSYCHOLOGICALLYª CHARGEDª RELATIONSHIPª BETWEENª THEª lGURESª THEª VIVIDª ANDªCRISPªCOLOURATIONªANDªTHEªENIGMATICªMALEª NUDESªINªTHEªBACKGROUNDª /THERª COMMISSIONSª FROMª THISª PERIODª INCLUDEª THEª 1JUUJ 5POEPª NOWª INª THEª "ARGELLO ª ANDª Aª FRESCOªOFªTHEª#BUUMFPG$ÈTDJOB ªFORªTHEª0ALAZZOª 6ECCHIOª /NLYª THEª CARTOONª FORª THEª FRESCOª WASª lNISHED ª BUTª THISª BECAMEª THEª SINGLEª MOSTª INmUENTIALª WORKª OFª ARTª INª THEª CITY ª WITHª ITSª EMPHASISªONªTHEªNUDEªMALEªFORMªNOªPREVIOUSª PAINTERª HADª MADEª THEª NAKEDª MALEª BODYª SOª CENTRALª TOª HISª ART ª ANDª ITSª USEª OFª lGURESª INª TORSION ªAªRECURRENTªMOTIFªINªLATERª-ANNERISTªART
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o3PNF 7ORKªONªTHEª#BUUMFPG$ÈTDJOBªWASªSUSPENDEDª INª ª WHENª -ICHELANGELOª WASª CALLEDª TOª 2OMEª BYª 0OPEª *ULIUSª )) ª WHOª WANTEDª HIMª TOª CREATEªHISªMONUMENTALªTOMBª4HEªPROJECTªWASªNEVERªlNISHED ªLIKEªSOªMANYªOFª-ICHELANGELOSª SCHEMES ª ANDª COSTª HIMª DECADESª OFª INTERMITTENTª LABOURª 7HENª COMPLETEDª INª ª THEª TOMBª BOREªLITTLEªRESEMBLANCEªTOªWHATªHADªBEENªORIGINALLYªPLANNEDªITªWASªBUILTªNOTªINª3Tª0ETERSªBUTª INª 3ANª 0IETROª INª 6INCOLI ª ANDª INSTEADª OFª HAVINGª FORTYª STATUESª ITª HADª JUSTª SEVEN ª ONLYª THREEª OFª THEMªBYª-ICHELANGELOª-OSES ª,EAHªANDª2ACHELª4HEª,EAHªANDª2ACHELªBOTHª ªWEREªTHEª LASTªSCULPTURESªTHATª-ICHELANGELOªlNISHEDªTHEªUNlNISHEDª4MBWFTªINªTHEª!CCADEMIAªWEREªMADEª FORª ANOTHERª VERSIONª OFª THEª TOMBª (ISª RELATIONSHIPª WITHª THEª lERYª *ULIUSª WASª ALWAYSª FRACTIOUSª INªªHEªRANªBACKªTOª&LORENCEªFORªAªWHILE ªWHEREªHEªRESUMEDªWORKªONªTHEªCARTOON ªBUTªINª ªHEªWASªSUMMONEDªBACKªTOªTHEª6ATICANªTOªCOMMENCEªTHEªMOSTªSUPERHUMANªOFªALLªHISª UNDERTAKINGSªnªTHEªDECORATIONªOFªTHEª3ISTINEª#HAPELªCEILINGª
'JOBMSFUVSOUP'MPSFODF )Nª ªWITHªTHEª3ISTINEªCEILINGªlNISHED ª-ICHELANGELOªRETURNEDªTOª&LORENCE ªWHEREªHISª PLANSª FORª THEª FACADEª OFª 3ANª ,ORENZOª CHURCHª nª SPONSOREDª BYª THEª -EDICIª POPE ª ,EOª 8ª nª EVENTUALLYª CAMEª TOª NOTHINGª )Nª ª HOWEVER ª ,EOª CONTRACTEDª HIMª TOª DESIGNª Aª NEWª SACRISTYª FORª 3ANª ,ORENZO ª ASª Aª -EDICIª MAUSOLEUMª 7ORKª ONª THIS ª -ICHELANGELOSª lRSTªARCHITECTURALªPROJECT ªWASªINTERRUPTEDªFREQUENTLY ªANDªBUILDINGªREALLYªONLYªBEGANªINª ª WHENª HEª WASª ALSOª ASKEDª TOª BUILDª Aª LIBRARYª ALONGSIDEª THEª CHURCH ª THEª "IBLIOTECAª
,AURENZIANAª )Nª THEª 3ANª ,ORENZOª PROJECTª -ICHELANGELOª CREATEDª Aª VOCABULARYª THATª WASª TOª PROVIDEª THEª BASISª OFª -ANNERISTª DESIGN ª EMPLOYINGª PARADOXICALª DETAILSª SUCHª ASª BRACKETSª THATª SUPPORTª NOTHING ª ANDªEMPHASIZINGªTHEªBUILDINGªASªAªDYNAMICª RATHERª THANª Aª STATICª ENSEMBLEª EGª COLUMNSª THATªSHRINKªINTOªTHEªWALLªRATHERªTHANªSTANDªOUTª FROMªIT ª4HEªSACRISTYªCONTAINSªAªREMARKABLEª GROUPª OFª SCULPTURESª BYª -ICHELANGELO ª BUTª AGAINªWHATªONEªSEESªISªBUTªAªPORTIONªOFªWHATª WASªPLANNED 4HEª -EDICIª WEREª AGAINª EXPELLEDª FROMª &LORENCEª INª ª ANDª -ICHELANGELOª STAYEDª INª THEª CITYª TOª SUPERVISEª THEª DEFENCESª WHENª ITªWASªBESIEGEDªINªªBYª%MPERORª#HARLESª 6 ª WHOª PLANNEDª TOª INSTALLª THEª DESPOTICª ANDª 4OMB«OF«'IULIANO«DE«-EDICI MALIGNª !LESSANDROª DE-EDICIª ASª HISª PUPPETª RULERª/NCEª!LESSANDROªWASªINªPLACE ª-ICHELANGELOSªLIFEªINªTHEªCITYªWASªFARªFROMªEASYª)Nªª HEªLEFTª&LORENCEªFORªTHEªLASTªTIMEª
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4HE MAIN CATWALK OF THE &LORENTINE PASSEGGIATA IS 6IA DEI #ALZAIUOLI THE BROAD PEDESTRIANIZED AVENUE THAT LINKS 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA WITH 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO 3HOP LINED FOR MOST OF ITS LENGTH IT BOASTS ONE STUPENDOUS MONUMENT THE CHURCH OF /RSANMICHELE $ESPITE THE URBAN IMPROVEMENT SCHEMES OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY AND THE BOMBINGS OF 7ORLD 7AR )) SEVERAL STREETS SOUTH OF HERE RETAIN THEIR MEDIEVAL CHARACTER AN AMBLE THROUGH STREETS SUCH AS 6IA 0ORTA 2OSSA 6IA DELLE 4ERME AND "ORGO 3ANTI !POSTOLI WILL GIVE YOU SOME IDEA OF THE FEEL OF &LORENCE IN THE -IDDLE !GES WHEN EVERY IMPORTANT HOUSE WAS AN URBAN FORTRESS "EST OF THESE MEDIEVAL REDOUBTS IS THE 0ALAZZO $AVANZATI WHOSE INTERIOR LOOKS LITTLE DIFFERENT FROM THE WAY IT DID SIX HUNDRED YEARS AGO BUT HAS BEEN UNDERGOING A VERY LENGTHY RESTORATION .EARBY THE lNE CHURCH OF 3ANTA 4RÖNITA IS HOME TO AN OUTSTANDING FRESCO CYCLE BY $OMENICO 'HIRLANDAIO WHILE BEYOND THE GLITZY 6IA DE 4ORNABUONI n &LORENCES PRIME SHOPPING STREET n YOULL lND A MARVELLOUS CHAPEL DESIGNED BY !LBERTI AND A MUSEUM DEVOTED TO THE WORK OF -ARINO -ARINI ! FEW MINUTES WALK AWAY THERES YET MORE 'HIRLANDAIO AND WORK BY "OTTICELLI IN THE CHURCH OF /GNISSANTI !ND IF ALL THIS ART IS BEGINNING TO TAKE ITS TOLL YOU COULD TAKE A BREAK IN THE TREE LINED AVENUES OF THE #ASCINE PARK RIGHT ON THE WESTERN EDGE OF THE CITY CENTRE
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iÊ-iÌ>ÕÊî (ORTUM LATER 3AN -ICHELE IN /RTE n HENCE THE COMPACTED FORM OF /RSANMICHELE %VEN AFTER THE CHURCH WAS REPLACED BY A GRAIN MARKET IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY THE PLACE RETAINED ITS RELIGIOUS ASSOCIATIONS )N THE CHRONICLER 'IOVANNI 6ILLANI CLAIMED hTHE LAME WALKED AND THE POSSESSED WERE LIBERATEDv AFTER VISITING A MIRACULOUS IMAGE OF THE 6IRGIN PAINTED ON ONE OF THE MARKET PILLARS !FTER A lRE IN THE BUILDING WAS EVENTUALLY REPLACED BY A LOGGIA DESIGNED BY &RANCESCO 4ALENTI TO SERVE AS A TRADE HALL FOR THE !RTI -AGGIORI THE 'REAT 'UILDS WHICH GOVERNED THE CITY "ETWEEN AND THE LOGGIA WAS WALLED IN AFTER WHICH THE SITE WAS AGAIN DEDICATED ALMOST EXCLUSIVELY TO RELIGIOUS FUNC TIONS WHILE LEAVING TWO UPPER STOREYS FOR USE AS EMERGENCY GRAIN STORES Ç
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& , /2% .#% 7EST OF THE CENTRE FROM 6IA DEI #ALZAIUOLI TO THE #ASCINE
!S FAR BACK AS PLANS HAD BEEN MADE TO ADORN EACH PILLAR OF THE BUILDING WITH A PATRON STATUE EACH ASSIGNED TO A DIFFERENT GUILD )N THE EVENT ONLY ONE STATUE WAS PRODUCED IN SIXTY YEARS n A 3T 3TEPHEN COMMISSIONED BY THE !RTE DELLA ,ANA )N WEARY OF THE DELAY THE CITY ELDERS SET A TEN YEAR DEADLINE WARN ING THAT THE NICHES WOULD BE ALLOCATED TO RIVAL GUILDS IF COMMISSIONS REMAINED UNFULlLLED 4HE DELAY WAS TO POSTERITYS BENElT FOR THE STATUES THAT WERE EVENTU ALLY PRODUCED SPANNED THE EMERGENT YEARS OF THE 2ENAISSANCE SIXTY YEARS EARLIER LESSER TALENTS THAN $ONATELLO 'HIBERTI 6ERROCCHIO AND ,UCA DELLA 2OBBIA WOULD HAVE BEEN PUT TO WORK ON THE PROJECT 4HE EXTERIOR
"EGINNING ON THE FAR LEFT OF /RSANMICHELES 6IA DEI #ALZAIUOLI mANK THE lRST TABERNACLE IS OCCUPIED BY A REPLICA OF 'HIBERTIS *OHN THE "APTIST NUMBER ON PLAN THE EARLIEST LIFE SIZE BRONZE STATUE OF THE 2ENAISSANCE )T WAS MADE FOR THE #ALIMALA THE GUILD OF WHOLESALE CLOTH IMPORTERS 4HE ADJACENT NICHE IS OCCUPIED BY A REPLICA OF 4HE )NCREDULITY OF 3T 4HOMAS BY 6ERROCCHIO WHICH REPLACED AN EARLIER GILDED STATUE BY $ONATELLO 3T ,OUIS OF 4OULOUSE NOW IN THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO 'IAMBOLOGNAS 3T ,UKE SIMILARLY REPLACED AN EARLIER STATUE BY ,AMBERTI NOW IN THE "ARGELLO 2OUND THE CORNER "RUNELLESCHIS 3T 0ETER IS FOLLOWED BY TWO WORKS FROM .ANNI DI "ANCO 3T 0HILIP AND THE SO CALLED 1UATTRO #ORONATI 4HESE FOUR #HRISTIAN STONEMASONS EXECUTED BY $IOCLETIAN FOR REFUSING TO CARVE A PAGAN IDOL WERE PATRON SAINTS OF THE MASONS GUILD SPONSORS OF THIS NICHE 4HEIR NAME COMES FROM THE MANNER OF THEIR EXECUTION THEY WERE KILLED BY HAVING AN IRON CROWN CORONA DRIVEN ONTO THEIR HEADS ! COPY OF $ONATELLOS 3T 'EORGE OCCUPIES THE NEXT NICHE n THE ORIGINAL IS IN THE "ARGELLO AS IS THE ORIGINAL ACCOMPANYING BAS RELIEF OF 3T 'EORGE AND THE $RAGON /N THE CHURCHS WEST SIDE STAND 3T -ATTHEW AND 3T 3TEPHEN BOTH BY 'HIBERTI AND 3T %LIGIUS BY .ANNI DI "ANCO THE 3T -ATTHEW POSED AND CLAD LIKE A 2OMAN ORATOR MAKES A TELLING COMPARISON WITH THE SAME ARTISTS 3T *OHN CAST JUST TEN YEARS BEFORE BUT STILL SEMI 'OTHIC IN ITS SHARP EDGED DRAPERY AND ARCHING LINES %ARLIER THAN EITHER IS $ONATELLOS 3T -ARK MADE IN WHEN THE ARTIST WAS THE WORK IS OFTEN CONSID ERED ONE OF THE lRST STATUES OF THE 2ENAISSANCE A TITLE BASED ON THE NATURALISM OF 5 3T 'EORGE /RSANMICHELE
3T -ARKS STANCE AND THE BROODING INTENSITY OF HIS GAZE ! REPLICA OF 0IETRO ,AMBERTIS 3T *AMES PRECEDES THE BENIGN -ADONNA DELLA 2OSA PROBABLY BY 3IMONE 4ALENTI THE WEAKEST OF THE SCULPTURES "ACCIO DA -ONTELUPOS *OHN THE %VANGELIST BRINGS UP THE REAR & , /2% .#%
4HE INTERIOR
\ 7EST OF THE CENTRE FROM 6IA DEI #ALZAIUOLI TO THE #ASCINE
/RSANMICHELES INTERIOR CENTREPIECE IS A PAVILION SIZED GLASS AND MARBLE TABER NACLE BY /RCAGNA THE ONLY SIGNIlCANT SCULPTURAL WORK BY THE ARTIST $ECORATED WITH LAPIS LAZULI AND GOLD IT COST mORINS IN AND FRAMES A -ADONNA PAINTED IN BY "ERNARDO $ADDI AS A REPLACEMENT FOR THE MIRACULOUS IMAGE OF THE 6IRGIN DESTROYED BY THE lRE 4HE BROTHERHOOD THAT ADMINISTERED /RSANMICHELE PAID FOR THE TABERNACLE FROM THANKSGIVING DONATIONS IN THE AFTERMATH OF THE "LACK $EATH SO MANY PEOPLE ATTRIBUTED THEIR SURVIVAL TO THE -ADONNAS INTERVENTION THAT THE MONEY RECEIVED IN ALONE WAS GREATER THAN THE ANNUAL TAX INCOME OF THE CITY COFFERS /THER PAINTINGS CAN BE SEEN ON THE PILLARS DEVOTIONAL IMAGES OF THE GUILDS PATRON SAINTS THEY CAN BE REGARDED AS THE LOW COST ANCESTORS OF THE /RSANMICHELE STATUES 4HE ORIGINAL LINES OF THE BRICKED UP LOGGIA ARE STILL CLEAR WHILE THE VAULTED HALLS OF THE UPPER GRANARY n ONE OF THE CITYS MOST IMPOSING MEDIEVAL INTERIORS n ALSO SURVIVE 4HE HALLS NOW HOUSE THE -USEO DI /RSANMICHELE TOURS DAILY AM AM AM CLOSED ST AND LAST -ON OF MONTH FREE ENTERED VIA THE FOOTBRIDGE FROM THE 0ALAZZO DELL!RTE DELLA ,ANA THE BUILDING OPPOSITE THE CHURCH ENTRANCE )N PRACTICE OPENING TIMES CAN BE AFFECTED BY THE USE OF THE SPACE FOR TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS )F YOU GET THE CHANCE BE SURE TO VISIT NOT ONLY FOR THE lNE INTERIOR BUT ALSO FOR THE CHANCE TO SEE SEVERAL OF THE MOST IMPOR TANT ORIGINAL EXTERIOR STATUES !S RESTORATION WORK IS COMPLETED IT IS PLANNED THAT ALL THE STATUES WILL EVENTUALLY BE EXHIBITED HERE THOUGH NO ONE EXPECTS TO WREST THE MOST FAMOUS OF ALL $ONATELLOS 3T 'EORGE FROM THE CLUTCHES OF THE "ARGELLO
&ROM THE -ERCATO .UOVO TO 3ANTI !POSTOLI /NE BLOCK WEST OF THE SOUTHERN END OF 6IA DEI #ALZAIUOLI LIES THE -ERCATO .UOVO OR -ERCATO DEL 0ORCELLINO MID &EB TO MID .OV DAILY AMnPM MID .OV TO MID &EB 4UESn3AT AMnPM WHERE THERES BEEN A MARKET SINCE THE ELEVENTH CENTURY THOUGH THE PRESENT LOGGIA DATES FROM THE SIXTEENTH (AVING FORKED OUT THEIR EUROS AT THE SOUVENIR STALLS MOST PEOPLE JOIN THE SMALL GROUP THATS INVARIABLY GATHERED ROUND THE BRONZE BOAR KNOWN AS )L 0ORCELLINO YOURE SUPPOSED TO EARN YOURSELF SOME GOOD LUCK BY GETTING A COIN TO FALL FROM THE ANIMALS MOUTH THROUGH THE GRILLE BELOW HIS HEAD 4HIS SUPERSTITION HAS A SOCIAL FUNCTION AS THE COINS GO TO AN ORGANIZATION THAT RUNS HOMES FOR ABANDONED CHILDREN 0ALAZZO $AVANZATI
0ERHAPS THE MOST IMPOSING EXTERIOR IN THIS DISTRICT IS TO BE SEEN JUST TO THE SOUTH OF THE MARKET n THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY 0ALAZZO DI 0ARTE 'UELFA lNANCED FROM THE CONlSCATED PROPERTY OF THE 'HIBELLINE FACTION AND LATER EXPANDED BY "RUNELLESCHI (OWEVER FOR A MORE COMPLETE RE CREATION OF MEDIEVAL &LORENCE YOU SHOULD VISIT THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY 0ALAZZO $AVANZATI IN 6IA 0ORTA 2OSSA )N THE NINETEENTH CENTURY THE PALAZZO WAS DIVIDED INTO mATS BUT AT THE BEGINNING OF THE TWENTIETH IT WAS RESTORED TO SOMETHING VERY CLOSE TO THE MODI lED APPEARANCE OF THE S WHEN A LOGGIA REPLACED THE BATTLEMENTS ON THE ROOF AND THE $AVANZATI STUCK THEIR COAT OF ARMS ON THE FRONT 4HE IMMENSE
4HE OWNERS OF THIS HOUSE WERE OBVIOUSLY WELL PREPARED FOR THE ADVERSITIES OF URBAN LIVING AS CAN BE SEEN IN THE SIEGE RESISTANT DOORS THE HUGE STOREROOMS FOR THE HOARDING OF PROVISIONS AND THE PRIVATE WATER SUPPLY 4HE COURTYARDS WELL WAS SOMETHING OF A LUXURY AT A TIME WHEN MUCH OF &LORENCE WAS STILL DEPENDENT ON PUBLIC FOUNTAINS A COMPLEX SERIES OF ROPES AND PULLEYS ALLOWED IT TO SERVE THE ENTIRE HOUSE 3IMILARLY THE PALACES TOILETS WERE STATE OF THE ART AFFAIRS BY THE STANDARDS OF !N ANCIENT STAIRCASE n THE ONLY ONE OF ITS KIND TO SURVIVE IN THE CITY n LEADS TO THE lRST mOOR AND THE 3ALA 'RANDE OR 3ALA -ADORNALE 4HIS ROOM USED FOR FAMILY GATHERINGS UNDERLINES THE DUAL NATURE OF THE HOUSE FURNISHED IN THE BEST STYLE OF THE DAY IT ALSO HAS FOUR WOOD COVERED HATCHES IN THE mOOR TO ALLOW THE BOMBARDING OF A BESIEGING ENEMY -ERCHANTS HOUSES IN THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY WOULD TYPICALLY HAVE HAD ELABORATELY PAINTED WALLS IN THE MAIN ROOMS AND THE 0ALAZZO $AVANZATI PRESERVES SOME lNE EXAMPLES OF SUCH DECOR ESPECIALLY IN THE DINING ROOM OR 3ALA DEI 0APPAGALLI WHERE THE IMITATION WALL HANGINGS OF THE LOWER WALLS ARE PATTERNED WITH A PARROT PAPPAGALLO MOTIF WHILE THE UPPER WALLS DEPICT A GARDEN TERRACE "EFORE THE DEVELOPMENT OF SYSTEMS OF CREDIT WEALTH HAD TO BE SUNK INTO TAN GIBLE ASSETS SUCH AS THE TAPESTRIES CERAMICS SCULPTURE AND LACEWORK THAT ALLEVIATE THE AUSTERITY OF MANY OF THESE ROOMS ANY SURPLUS CASH WOULD HAVE BEEN LOCKED AWAY IN A STRONGBOX LIKE THE EXTRAORDINARY EXAMPLE IN THE 3ALA 0ICCOLA WHOSE LOCKING MECHANISM LOOKS LIKE THE INNARDS OF A PRIMITIVE CLOCK 4HERES ALSO A lNE COLLECTION OF CASSONI THE PAINTED CHESTS IN WHICH THE WIFES DOWRY WOULD BE STORED 0LUSHEST OF THE ROOMS IS THE lRST mOOR BEDROOM OR 3ALA DEI 0AVONI n COM PLETE WITH EN SUITE BATHROOM )T TAKES ITS NAME FROM THE BEAUTIFUL FRESCOED FRIEZE OF TREES PEACOCKS PAVONI AND OTHER EXOTIC BIRDS THE COATS OF ARMS WOVEN INTO THE DECORATION ARE THE CRESTS OF FAMILIES RELATED TO THE $AVIZZI 4HE RARE 3ICILIAN LINEN BED COVER IS DECORATED WITH SCENES FROM THE STORY OF 4RISTAN 4HE ARRANGEMENTS OF THE ROOMS ON THE UPPER TWO mOORS TOGETHER WITH THEIR BEAUTIFUL ARRAY OF FURNITURE AND DECORATION MIRROR THAT OF THE lRST mOOR &OR ALL THE SPLENDOUR OF THE LOWER ROOMS THE SPOT WHERE THE PALACES OCCUPANTS WOULD HAVE BEEN LIKELIEST TO LINGER IS THE THIRD mOOR KITCHEN ,OCATED ON THE UPPERMOST mOOR TO MINIMIZE DAMAGE IF A lRE BROKE OUT IT WOULD HAVE BEEN THE WARMEST ROOM IN THE HOUSE ! FASCINATING ARRAY OF UTENSILS ARE ON SHOW HERE THE GIRAPOLENTA THE POLENTA STIRRER IS EXTRAORDINARY 4HE LEADED GLASS n LIKE THE TOILETS n WAS CONSIDERED A MARVEL AT A TIME WHEN MANY WINDOWS WERE COVERED WITH TURPENTINE SOAKED RAGS STRETCHED ACROSS FRAMES TO REPEL RAINWATER
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4HE INTERIOR
& , /2% .#% 7EST OF THE CENTRE FROM 6IA DEI #ALZAIUOLI TO THE #ASCINE
AMOUNT OF METALWORK ON THE EXTERIOR WAS USED VARIOUSLY FOR TYING UP ANIMALS DRAPING WOOL AND WET WASHING SUSPENDING BIRD CAGES OR lXING BANNERS CARPETS AND OTHER HANGINGS ON THE OCCASION OF FESTIVITIES AND PROCESSIONS !PART FROM THOSE HAUTE BOURGEOIS EMENDATIONS THE PLACE NOW LOOKS MUCH AS IT DID WHEN lRST INHABITED 6IRTUALLY EVERY ROOM IS FURNISHED AND DECORATED IN PREDOMINANT LY MEDIEVAL STYLE USING GENUINE ARTEFACTS GATHERED FROM A VARIETY OF SOURCES .OWADAYS THE PALAZZO IS MAINTAINED AS THE -USEO DELLA #ASA &IORENTINA !NTICA 4HE BUILDING WAS CLOSED IN FOR MAJOR STRUCTURAL REPAIRS AND CUR RENTLY JUST A SECTION OF THE BUILDING IS OPEN TO THE PUBLIC 4UESn3AT AMn PM OPEN ST RD TH 3UN OF MONTH AND ND TH -ON FREE .O FULL OPENING DATE HAS BEEN lXED THE DESCRIPTION THAT FOLLOWS GIVES YOU AN IDEA OF THE INTERIOR OF THE MUSEUM BEFORE ITS CLOSURE
3ANTI !POSTOLI
& , /2% .#%
\ 7EST OF THE CENTRE FROM 6IA DEI #ALZAIUOLI TO THE #ASCINE
"ETWEEN 6IA 0ORTA 2OSSA AND THE !RNO ON 0IAZZA DEL ,IMBO THE FORMER BURIAL GROUND OF UNBAPTIZED CHILDREN STANDS THE ANCIENT CHURCH OF 3ANTI !POSTOLI -ONn3AT AMnNOON nPM 3UN nPM ,EGEND HAS IT THAT THIS WAS FOUNDED BY #HARLEMAGNE BUT ITS NOT QUITE THAT ANCIENT n THE ELEVENTH CENTURY SEEMS THE LIKELIEST DATE OF ORIGIN 3ANTI !POSTOLI POSSESSES SOME PECULIAR RELICS IN THE FORM OF STONE FRAGMENTS ALLEGEDLY BROUGHT FROM THE (OLY 3EPULCHRE IN *ERUSALEM BY A CRUSADING &LORENTINE ON (OLY 3ATURDAY SPARKS STRUCK FROM THESE STONES ARE USED TO LIGHT THE mAME THAT IGNITES THE hDOVEv THAT IN TURN SETS OFF THE lREWORKS IN FRONT OF THE $UOMO SEE P /RDERLY AND GRACEFUL THE INTERIOR OF GREY PIETRA SERENA AGAINST WHITE WALLS LOOKS LIKE AN ANTICIPATION OF THE ARCHITECTURE OF "RUNELLESCHI
0IAZZA AND 0ONTE 3ANTA 4RÖNITA 7EST OF THE 0ALAZZO $AVANZATI 6IA 0ORTA 2OSSA RUNS INTO 0IAZZA 3ANTA 4RÖNITA n NOT REALLY A SQUARE JUST A WIDENING OF THE CITYS MOST EXPENSIVE STREET 6IA DE 4ORNABUONI 4HE CENTREPIECE OF THE PIAZZA IS THE #OLONNA DELLA 'IUSTIZIA #OL UMN OF *USTICE WHICH 0OPE 0IUS )6 UPROOTED FROM THE "ATHS OF #ARACALLA AND SENT TO #OSIMO ) WHO IN RAISED IT ON THE SPOT WHERE IN !UGUST HE HAD HEARD OF THE DEFEAT OF THE ANTI -EDICI FACTION AT -ONTEMURLO 4HE COLUMN STANDS ON THE AXIS OF THE SLEEK 0ONTE 3ANTA 4RÖNITA CONSTRUCTION OF WHICH WAS BEGUN IN ON #OSIMOS ORDERS TEN YEARS AFTER ITS PREDECESSOR WAS DEMOL ISHED IN A mOOD n AND TEN YEARS AFTER 3IENA HAD lNALLY BECOME PART OF &LORENTINE TERRITORY A SUBJUGATION WHICH THE BRIDGE WAS INTENDED TO COMMEMORATE 4HE ROADS ON BOTH SIDES OF THE RIVER WERE RAISED AND WIDENED TO ACCENTUATE THE DRAMATIC POTENTIAL OF THE NEW LINK BETWEEN THE CITY CENTRE AND THE /LTRARNO BUT WHAT MAKES THIS THE CLASSIEST BRIDGE IN &LORENCE IS THE SENSUOUS CURVE OF ITS ARCHES A CURVE SO SHALLOW THAT ENGINEERS HAVE BEEN BAFmED AS TO HOW THE BRIDGE BEARS UP UNDER THE STRAIN /STENSIBLY THE DESIGN WAS CONJURED UP BY !MMANNATI ONE OF THE -EDICIS FAVOURITE ARTISTS BUT THE CURVES SO CLOSELY RESEMBLE THE ARC OF -ICHELANGELOS -EDICI TOMBS THAT ITS LIKELY THE CREDIT BELONGS TO HIM )N THE .AZIS BLEW THE BRIDGE TO SMITHEREENS AND A SEVEN YEAR ARGUMENT ENSUED BEFORE IT WAS AGREED TO REBUILD IT USING AS MUCH OF THE ORIGINAL MATERIAL AS COULD BE DREDGED FROM THE !RNO 4O ENSURE MAXIMUM AUTHENTICITY IN THE RECONSTRUCTION ALL THE NEW STONE THAT WAS NEEDED WAS QUARRIED FROM THE "ØBOLI GARDENS n WHERE THE STONE FOR !MMANNATIS BRIDGE HAD BEEN CUT n AND HAND TOOLS WERE USED TO TRIM IT AS ELECTRIC BLADES WOULD HAVE GIVEN THE BLOCKS TOO HARSH A lNISH 4WELVE YEARS AFTER THE WAR THE RECONSTRUCTED BRIDGE WAS OPENED LACKING ONLY THE HEAD FROM THE STATUE OF 3PRING WHICH HAD NOT BEEN FOUND DESPITE THE INCENTIVE OF A HEFTY REWARD !T LAST IN THE MISSING HEAD WAS lSHED FROM THE RIVERBED HAVING LAIN IN STATE FOR A FEW DAYS ON A SCARLET CUSHION IN THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO IT WAS RETURNED TO ITS HOME 3ANTA 4RÖNITA CHURCH
4HE ANTIQUITY OF THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA 4RÖNITA -ONn3AT AMnNOON nPM 3UN nPM IS MANIFEST IN THE ,ATINATE PRONUNCIATION OF ITS NAME MODERN )TAL IAN STRESSES THE LAST NOT THE lRST SYLLABLE 4HE CHURCH WAS FOUNDED IN BY A &LORENTINE NOBLEMAN CALLED 'IOVANNI 'UALBERTO SCENES FROM WHOSE LIFE ARE ILLUSTRATED IN THE FRESCOES IN THE ALCOVE AT THE TOP OF THE LEFT AISLE /NE 'OOD &RIDAY SO THE STORY GOES 'UALBERTO SET OFF INTENT ON AVENGING THE MURDER OF HIS BROTHER /N lNDING THE MURDERER HE DECIDED TO SPARE HIS LIFE n IT WAS 'OOD &RIDAY n AND PROCEEDED TO 3AN -INIATO SEE P WHERE A CRUCIlX IS SAID TO
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& , /2% .#% 7EST OF THE CENTRE FROM 6IA DEI #ALZAIUOLI TO THE #ASCINE
HAVE BOWED ITS HEAD TO HONOUR HIS ACT OF MERCY 'IOVANNI WENT ON TO BECOME A "ENEDICTINE MONK AND FOUND THE REFORMING 6ALLOMBROSAN ORDER AND n NOTWITH STANDING THE MAYHEM CREATED ON &LORENCES STREETS BY HIS MILITANT SUPPORTERS n WAS EVENTUALLY CANONIZED 4HE CHURCH WAS REBUILT BETWEEN ABOUT AND WORK BEING INTERRUPTED BY THE PLAGUE OF &URTHER REBUILDING TOOK PLACE BETWEEN AND WHILE THE FACADE n BY "UONTALENTI n WAS ADDED IN 0IECEMEAL ADDITIONS OVER THE YEARS HAVE LENT THE CHURCH A PLEASANTLY HYBRID AIR THE LARGELY 'OTHIC INTERIOR CONTRASTS WITH THE -ANNERIST FACADE ITSELF AT ODDS WITH THE 2OMAN ESQUE INTERIOR FACADE 3ANTA 4RÖNITAS ARCHITECTURE IS SOFTENED BY A NUMBER OF WORKS OF ART THE BEST OF WHICH ARE 'HIRLANDAIOS FRESCOES 2ESIST THE TEMPTATION TO HEAD STRAIGHT FOR THESE HOWEVER AND WORK ROUND THE CHURCH BEGINNING AT THE #APPELLA #IALLI 3ERNIGI WHICH CONTAINS A DAMAGED FRESCO AND DETACHED SINOPIA DEPICTING THE -YSTICAL -ARRIAGE OF 3T #ATHERINE BY 3PINELLO !RETINO RECENTLY DISCOVERED BELOW THE FRESCOES IN THE ADJOINING CHAPEL 4HE NEXT CHAPEL THE #APPELLA "ARTOLINI 3ALIMBENI IS ONE OF ONLY A HAND FUL IN THE CITY WHOSE DECORATIVE SCHEME HAS REMAINED UNCORRUPTED BY SUBSE QUENT ADDITIONS AND CHANGES 4HE FRESCOES n OF EPISODES FROM THE ,IFE OF THE 6IRGIN ARE BY ,ORENZO -ONACO WHO ALSO PAINTED ITS !NNUNCIATION ALTAR PIECE 4HE LUNETTE AND RIGHT WALL OF THE NEXT CHAPEL THE #APPELLA !RDINGHELLI FEATURES 'IOVANNI 4OSCANIS CONTEMPORANEOUS FRESCOES OF THE 0IETÌ n AND AN UNlNISHED ALTAR TABERNACLE BY "ENEDETTO DA 2OVEZZANO n )N THE SACRISTY IF ITS OPEN YOULL lND THE TOMB OF /NOFRIO 3TROZZI SCION OF A MAJOR BANKING DYNASTY LONG THOUGHT TO BE THE WORK OF $ONATELLO THE TOMB IS NOW CAUTIOUSLY ATTRIBUTED TO -ICHELOZZO .EXT COMES THE CHURCHS HIGHLIGHT THE #APPELLA 3ASSETTI FAMOUS FOR ITS CYCLE OF FRESCOES OF SCENES FROM THE ,IFE OF 3T &RANCIS n BY $OMENICO 'HIRLANDAIO #OMMISSIONED BY &RANCESCO 3ASSETTI A FRIEND OF ,ORENZO THE -AGNIlCENT THEY WERE INTENDED IN PART TO RIVAL THE FRESCOES OF 3ASSETTIS RIVAL 'IOVANNI 4ORNABUONI IN 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA ALSO BY 'HIRLANDAIO SEE P 4HESE FRESCOES ARE CONCERNED AS MUCH WITH A PORTRAYAL OF lFTEENTH CENTURY &LORENCE AS WITH THE NARRATIVE OF THEIR RELIGIOUS THEMES 3T &RANCIS mOATING IN THE SKY IS SHOWN BRINGING A CHILD BACK TO LIFE IN 0IAZZA 3ANTA 4RÖNITA THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA 4RÖNITA IS IN THE BACKGROUND PAINTED AS IT THEN APPEARED /PPOSITE THE CHURCH YOU CAN SEE THE CHILD PLUMMETING TO HIS TEMPORARY DEATH !BOVE THIS SCENE 3T &RANCIS 2ECEIVING THE 2ULE SETS THE ACTION IN 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA n NOTE THE ,OGGIA DELLA 3IGNORIA n AND FEATURES RIGHT FOREGROUND A PORTRAIT OF 3ASSETTI BETWEEN HIS SON &EDERIGO AND ,ORENZO THE -AGNIlCENT 3ASSETTI WAS GENERAL MANAGER OF THE -EDICI BANK /N THE STEPS BELOW THEM ARE THE HUMANIST 0OLIZIANO AND THREE OF HIS PUPILS ,ORENZOS SONS THE BLONDE HAIRED BOY AT THE BACK OF THE LINE IS 'IOVANNI THE FUTURE 0OPE ,EO 8 'HIRLANDAIO HAS DEPICTED HIMSELF IN THE LOWER SCENE WITH HIS HAND ON HIS HIP AND IS ALSO PRESENT IN THE CHAPELS ALTARPIECE THE !DORATION OF THE 3HEPHERDS n HES THE SHEPHERD POINTING TO THE #HILD AND BY WAY OF SELF IDENTIlCA TION TO THE GARLAND GHIRLANDA ! PERSUASIVE 2ENAISSANCE FUSION OF #LASSICAL AND #HRISTIAN ICONOGRAPHY THE PAINTING SETS ITS PROTAGONISTS AMID #LASSICAL COLUMNS A 2OMAN SARCOPHAGUS USED AS THE MANGER AND A TRIUMPHAL ARCH TRANSPLANTED FROM THE 2OMAN FORUM 4HE lGURES OF THE DONORS n 3ASSETTI AND HIS WIFE .ERA #ORSI n KNEEL TO EITHER SIDE THEY ARE BURIED IN 'IULIANO DA 3ANGALLOS BLACK TOMBS UNDER THE SIDE ARCHES $ISPLAYED IN THE NEIGHBOURING #APPELLA $ONI IS THE MIRACULOUS CRUCIlX FORMERLY IN 3AN -INIATO SAID TO HAVE BOWED ITS HEAD TO 'UALBERTO SEE P 4HE LAST OF THE CHURCHS MAJOR WORKS A POWERFUL COMPOSITION BY ,UCA DELLA
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2OBBIA n THE TOMB OF "ENOZZO &EDERIGHI BISHOP OF &IESOLE n OCCU PIES THE LEFT WALL OF THE #APPELLA 3CALI MOULDED AND CARVED FOR THE CHURCH OF 3AN 0ANCRAZIO IT WAS TRANSPORTED HERE IN 4HE lNE WOODEN STATUE OF -ARY -AGDALENE WHICH OWES MUCH TO $ONATELLOS -AGDALENE IN THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO WAS BEGUN BY $ESIDERIO DA 3ETTIGNANO AND COMPLETED ACCORDING TO 6ASARI BY "ENEDETTO DA -AIANO
6IA DE 4ORNABUONI TO THE #ASCINE
\ 7EST OF THE CENTRE FROM 6IA DEI #ALZAIUOLI TO THE #ASCINE
4HE SHOPS OF 6IA DE 4ORNABUONI ARE EFFECTIVELY OUT OF BOUNDS TO THOSE WHO DONT TRAVEL lRST CLASS 6ERSACE &ERRAGAMO 0RADA #AVALLI 'UCCI AND !RMANI HAVE THEIR OUTLETS HERE INDEED IN RECENT YEARS THEY HAVE COME TO MONOPOLIZE THE STREET AND NEARBY 0IAZZA 3TROZZI TO THE DISMAY OF MANY WHO SEE FURTHER EVIDENCE OF THE LOSS OF &LORENTINE IDENTITY IN THE EVICTION OF LOCAL INSTITUTIONS SUCH AS THE 3EEBER BOOKSHOP THE &ARMACIA )NGLESE AND THE 'IACOSA CAFÏ 4HE LAST OF THIS TRIO n FAMED AS THE BIRTHPLACE OF THE .EGRONI COCKTAIL n NOW EXISTS IN NAME ONLY AS AN ADJUNCT TO THE HUGE 2OBERTO #AVALLI SHOP #ONSPICUOUS WEALTH IS NOTHING NEW ON 6IA DE 4ORNABUONI ,OOMING ABOVE EVERYTHING IS THE VAST 0ALAZZO 3TROZZI THE MOST INTIMIDATING OF ALL &LORENTINE 2ENAISSANCE PALACES WITH WINDOWS AS BIG AS GATEWAYS AND EMBOSSED WITH LUMPS OF STONE THE SIZE OF BOULDERS )T WAS BEGUN BY THE BANKER &ILIPPO 3TROZZI A lGURE SO POWERFUL THAT HE WAS ONCE DESCRIBED AS hTHE lRST MAN OF )TALYv AND WHOSE FAMILY PROVIDED THE RINGLEADERS OF THE ANTI -EDICI FACTION IN &LORENCE (E BOUGHT AND DEMOL ISHED A DOZEN TOWN HOUSES TO MAKE SPACE FOR 'IULIANO DA 3ANGALLOS INHABITABLE STRONGBOX AND THE CONSTRUCTION OF IT LASTED FROM TO 4HE INTERIOR OF THE PALAZZO IS OPEN ONLY FOR SPECIAL EXHIBITIONS 4HE 0ALAZZO 2UCELLAI
3OME OF &LORENCES OTHER PLUTOCRATS MADE AN IMPRESSION WITH A TOUCH MORE SUBTLETY THAN THE 3TROZZI )N THE S 'IOVANNI 2UCELLAI ONE OF THE RICHEST BUSINESSMEN IN THE CITY AND AN ESTEEMED SCHOLAR TOO DECIDED TO COMMISSION A NEW HOUSE FROM ,EON "ATTISTA !LBERTI WHOSE ACCOMPLISHMENTS AS ARCHITECT MATHEMATICIAN LINGUIST AND THEORIST OF THE ARTS PROMPTED A CONTEMPORARY TO EXCLAIM h7HERE SHALL ) PUT "ATTISTA !LBERTI IN WHAT CATEGORY OF LEARNED MEN SHALL ) PLACE HIM v 4HE RESULTANT 0ALAZZO 2UCELLAI TWO MINUTES WALK FROM THE 3TROZZI HOUSE AT 6IA DELLA 6IGNA .UOVA WAS THE lRST PALACE IN &LORENCE TO FOLLOW THE RULES OF CLASSICAL ARCHITECTURE ITS TIERS OF PILASTERS INCISED INTO SMOOTH BLOCKS OF STONE EVOKE THE EXTERIOR WALL OF THE #OLOSSEUM !LBERTI LATER PRODUCED ANOTHER EQUALLY ELEGANT DESIGN FOR THE SAME PATRON n THE FRONT OF THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA )N CONTRAST TO THE FEUD BETWEEN THE -EDICI AND THE 3TROZZI THE 2UCELLAI WERE ON THE CLOSEST TERMS WITH THE CITYS DE FACTO ROYAL FAMILY THE ,OGGIA DEI 2UCELLAI ACROSS THE STREET NOW A SHOP WAS IN ALL LIKELI HOOD BUILT FOR THE WEDDING OF 'IOVANNIS SON TO THE GRANDDAUGHTER OF #OSIMO IL 6ECCHIO AND THE FRIEZE ON THE 0ALAZZO 2UCELLAI FEATURES THE HERALDIC DEVICES OF THE TWO FAMILIES THE -EDICI EMBLEM ALONGSIDE THE 2UCELLAI SAIL 4HE -USEO -ARINO -ARINI AND THE #APPELLA DI 3AN 3EPOLCRO
2OUND THE CORNER FROM THE 0ALAZZO 2UCELLAI STANDS THE EX CHURCH OF 3AN 0AN CRAZIO DECONSECRATED BY .APOLEON THEN SUCCESSIVELY THE OFlCES OF THE STATE LOT TERY THE MAGISTRATES COURT A TOBACCO FACTORY AND AN ARSENAL )T IS NOW THE SWISH -USEO -ARINO -ARINI AMnPM CLOSED 4UES 3UN PLUS 3AT IN *UNE *ULY AND ALL !UG + WHERE THE ATTIRE AND DEMEANOUR OF THE ATTENDANTS MIGHT
)N MEDIEVAL TIMES ONE OF THE MAIN AREAS OF CLOTH PRODUCTION n THE MAINSTAY OF THE &LORENTINE ECONOMY n WAS IN THE WESTERN PART OF THE CITY /GNISSANTI DAILY AMnPM nPM OR !LL 3AINTS THE MAIN CHURCH OF THIS QUARTER STANDS ON A PIAZZA THAT MIGHT BE TAKEN AS A SYMBOL OF THE STATE OF THE PRESENT DAY &LORENTINE ECONOMY DOMINATED AS IT IS BY THE lVE STAR 'RAND AND %XCELSIOR HOTELS 4HE CHURCH WAS FOUNDED IN BY THE 5MILIATI A "ENEDICTINE ORDER FROM ,OMBARDY WHOSE SPECIALITY WAS THE WEAVING OF WOOLLEN CLOTH )N THE &RANCISCANS TOOK OVER THE CHURCH THE NEW TENURE BEING MARKED BY A "AROQUE OVERHAUL WHICH SPARED ONLY THE MEDIEVAL CAMPANILE 4HE FACADE OF THE CHURCH IS OF HISTORICAL INTEREST AS ONE OF THE EARLIEST ERUPTIONS OF THE "AROQUE IN &LORENCE n IT WAS ABHORRED BY MANY &LORENTINES AT THE TIME AS AN AFFRONT TO THE CITYS 2ENAISSANCE TRADITIONS 4HE BUILDING WITHIN HOWEVER IS MADE APPEALING BY EARLIER FEATURES n FRESCOES BY $OMENICO 'HIRLANDAIO AND 3ANDRO "OTTICELLI 4HE YOUNG FACE SQUEEZED BETWEEN THE -ADONNA AND THE DARK CLOAKED MAN IN 'HIRLANDAIOS -ADONNA DELLA -ISERICORDIA THE HIGHER OF THE TWO WORKS OVER THE SECOND ALTAR ON THE RIGHT IS SAID TO BE THAT OF !MERIGO 6ESPUCCI AN AGENT FOR THE -EDICI IN 3EVILLE WHOSE TWO VOYAGES IN AND WOULD LEND HIS NAME TO A CONTINENT 4HE ALTAR WAS PAID FOR BY THE 6ESPUCCI A FAMILY OF SILK MERCHANTS FROM THE SURROUNDING DISTRICT WHICH IS WHY OTHER MEMBERS OF THE CLAN APPEAR BENEATH THE -ADONNAS PROTECTIVE CLOAK !MONG THEM IS 3IMONETTA 6ESPUCCI AT THE 6IRGINS LEFT HAND THE MISTRESS OF 'IULIANO DE -EDICI AND REPUTEDLY THE MOST BEAUTIFUL WOMAN OF HER AGE n SHE IS SAID TO HAVE BEEN THE MODEL FOR "OTTICELLIS 6ENUS NOW IN THE 5FlZI 4HE IDEA MAY NOT BE SO FAR FETCHED FOR "OTTICELLI ALSO LIVED LOCALLY AND THE 6ESPUCCI AND &ILIPEPI FAMILIES WERE ON GOOD TERMS "OTTICELLI IS BURIED IN THE CHURCH BENEATH A ROUND TOMB SLAB IN THE SOUTH TRANSEPT AND HIS PAINTING OF 3T !UGUSTINES 6ISION OF 3T *EROME LIES ON THE SAME WALL AS THE -ADONNA BETWEEN THE THIRD AND FOURTH ALTARS &ACING IT IS 'HIRLANDAIOS MORE EARTHBOUND 3T *EROME ALSO PAINTED IN )N THE SAME YEAR 'HIRLANDAIO PAINTED THE ,AST 3UPPER THAT COVERS ONE WALL OF THE REFECTORY REACHED THROUGH THE CLOISTER ENTERED TO THE LEFT OF THE CHURCH -ON 4UES 3AT AMnNOON FREE
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/GNISSANTI
& , /2% .#% 7EST OF THE CENTRE FROM 6IA DEI #ALZAIUOLI TO THE #ASCINE
MAKE YOU THINK YOUD STRAYED INTO A FASHION HOUSE (OLDING SOME TWO HUNDRED WORKS LEFT TO THE CITY IN -ARINIS WILL THE MUSEUM ITSELF IS PERHAPS THE MOST INTRIGUING ARTEFACT AND ITS DEBATABLE WHETHER -ARINIS PIECES CAN STAND UP TO THE REVERENTIAL ATMOSPHERE IMPOSED BY THE DISPLAY TECHNIQUES 6ARIATIONS ON THE SCULPTORS TRADEMARK HORSE AND RIDER THEME n FAMILIAR FROM CIVIC ENVIRONMENTS ALL OVER %UROPE n MAKE UP MUCH OF THE SHOW /NCE PART OF THE CHURCH BUT NOW ENTIRELY SEPARATE FROM THE MUSEUM THE #APPELLA 2UCELLAI WHICH WAS REDESIGNED BY !LBERTI HOUSES THE #APPELLA DI 3AN 3EPOLCRO THE MOST EXQUISITE OF HIS CREATIONS *UNEn3EPT HOURS VARY BUT USUALLY -ONn&RI AMnNOON /CTn-AY -ONn3AT AMnNOON nPM FREE $ESIGNED AS THE FUNERARY MONUMENT TO 'IOVANNI 2UCELLAI IT TAKES THE FORM OF A DIMINUTIVE RECONSTRUCTION OF *ERUSALEMS #HURCH OF THE (OLY 3EP ULCHRE
4HE #ASCINE
&LORENCES PUBLIC PARK THE #ASCINE BEGINS CLOSE TO THE 0ONTE DELLA 6ITTORIA BUS E FROM THE $UOMO OR STATION AND DWINDLES AWAY KM DOWNSTREAM AT THE CONmUENCE OF THE !RNO AND THE -UGNONE /NCE THE -EDICI DAIRY FARM CASCINA THEN A HUNTING RESERVE THIS NARROW STRIP OF GREEN MUTATED INTO A HIGH
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\ 4HE 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA DISTRICT
SOCIETY VENUE IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY IF THERE WAS NOTHING HAPPENING AT THE OPERA ALL OF &LORENCES BEAU MONDE TURNED OUT TO PROMENADE UNDER THE TREES OF THE #ASCINE ! FOUNTAIN IN THE PARK BEARS A DEDICATION TO 3HELLEY WHO WAS INSPIRED TO WRITE HIS /DE TO THE 7EST 7IND WHILE STROLLING HERE ON A BLUSTERY DAY IN 4HOUSANDS OF PEOPLE COME OUT HERE ON 4UESDAY MORNINGS FOR THE COLOSSAL MARKET BEYOND THE FORMER TRAIN STATION WHICH NOW HOUSES A NEW ARTS CENTRE THE 3TAZIONE ,EOPOLDA AND ON ANY DAY OF THE WEEK THE #ASCINE SWARMS WITH JOGGERS CYCLISTS AND ROLLER BLADERS 0ARENTS BRING THEIR KIDS OUT HERE TOO TO PLAY ON THE GRASS A RARE COMMODITY IN &LORENCE OR VISIT THE SMALL ZOO (OWEVER THE #ASCINE ALSO HAS A REPUTATION AS A HAUNT FOR THE CITYS JUNKIES AND ITS EMPHATI CALLY NOT A PLACE FOR A NOCTURNAL STROLL AS IT HAS LONG BEEN A HUNTING GROUND FOR THE CITYS PIMPS
4HE 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA DISTRICT 3CURRYING FROM THE TRAIN STATION IN SEARCH OF A ROOM OR FRETTING IN THE QUEUES FOR A RAIL TICKET MOST PEOPLE BARELY GIVE A GLANCE TO 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA TRAIN STATION BUT THIS IS A BUILDING THAT DESERVES AS MUCH ATTENTION AS MANY OF THE CITYS CONVENTIONAL MONUMENTS )TS PRINCIPAL ARCHITECT 'IOVANNI -ICHELUCCI n WHO DIED IN *ANUARY JUST TWO DAYS SHORT OF HIS HUNDREDTH BIRTHDAY n WAS ONE OF THE LEADING lGURES OF THE -ODERNIST MOVEMENT WHICH IN -USSOLINIS )TALY WAS MARGINALIZED BY THE OFlCIALLY APPROVED POMPOSITIES OF THE .EOCLASSICAL TENDENCY !CCORDINGLY THERE WAS SOME ASTONISHMENT WHEN IN -ICHELUCCI
3T 0ETER -ARTYR AND THE 0ATERENES
)N THE TWELFTH CENTURY &LORENCE BECAME THE CRUCIBLE OF ONE OF THE REFORMING RELIGIOUS MOVEMENTS THAT PERIODICALLY CROPPED UP IN MEDIEVAL )TALY 4HE 0ATERENES WHO WERE SO NUMEROUS THAT THEY HAD THEIR OWN CLERICAL HIERARCHY IN PARALLEL WITH THAT OF THE MAINSTREAM #HURCH WERE CONVINCED THAT EVERYTHING WORLDLY WAS TOUCHED BY THE $EVIL !CCORDINGLY THEY DESPISED THE PAPACY FOR ITS CLAIMS TO TEMPORAL POWER AND SPURNED THE ADORATION OF ALL RELICS AND IMAGES &URTHERMORE THEY REJECTED ALL FORMS OF PRAYER AND ALL CONTRACTS n INCLUDING MARRIAGE VOWS n AND WERE STAUNCH PACIlSTS )NEVITABLY THEIR CAMPAIGN AGAINST THE lNANCIAL AND MORAL CORRUPTION OF THE #ATHOLIC #HURCH BROUGHT THEM INTO CONmICT WITH 2OME THE DISPLEASURE OF THE 6ATICAN EVENTU ALLY FOUND ITS MEANS OF EXPRESSION IN THE EQUALLY ZEALOUS BUT DECIDEDLY NON PACIlC lGURE OF THE $OMINICAN KNOWN AS 3T 0ETER -ARTYR /PERATING FROM THE MONASTERY OF 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA THIS PAPAL INQUISITOR HEADED A COUPLE OF ANTI 0ATERENE FRATERNI TIES THE #ROCESEGNATI AND THE #OMPAGNIA DELLA &EDE WHICH WERE IN EFFECT HIS PRIVATE ARMY )N HE LED THEM INTO BATTLE ACROSS THE 0IAZZA 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA WHERE THEY PROCEEDED TO MASSACRE HUNDREDS OF THE THEOLOGICAL ENEMY 4HE EPICENTRE OF THE CARNAGE IS MARKED BY THE #ROCE DEL 4REBBIO IN 6IA DELLE "ELLE $ONNE OFF THE EASTERN SIDE OF THE PIAZZA !FTER THIS THE $OMINICANS TURNED TO LESS MILITANT WORK FOUNDING THE CHARITABLE ORGANIZATION CALLED THE -ISERICORDIA WHICH IS STILL IN EXISTENCE TODAY SEE P )N 0ETER WAS KNIFED TO DEATH BY A PAIR OF ASSASSINS IN THE PAY OF A COUPLE OF 6ENETIANS WHOSE PROPERTY HED CONlSCATED WHICH IS WHY HES USUALLY DEPICTED WITH A BLADE EMBEDDED IN HIS SKULL 4HE OFlCIAL VERSION HOWEVER IDENTIlES THE ASSASSINS AS 0ATERENE HERETICS AND RELATES THAT THE DYING MAN MANAGED TO WRITE OUT THE #REDO WITH HIS OWN BLOOD BEFORE EXPIRING n AN INCIDENT DEPICTED IN THE FRESCOES IN 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLAS #APPELLONE DEGLI 3PAGNOLI 7ITHIN THE YEAR HED BEEN MADE A SAINT
3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA -ONn4HURS 3AT AMnPM &RI 3UN nPM + STANDS ON THE SITE OF THE MORE HUMBLE 3ANTA -ARIA DELLE 6IGNE WHICH IN WAS HANDED TO THE $OMINICANS WHO THEN SET ABOUT ALTERING THE PLACE TO THEIR TASTE "Y THE INTERIOR WAS lNISHED BUT ONLY THE 2OMANESQUE LOWER PART OF THE FACADE HAD BEEN COMPLETED 4HIS STATE OF AFFAIRS LASTED UNTIL WHEN 'IOVANNI 2UCELLAI PAID FOR !LBERTI TO DESIGN AN ELEGANTLY CLAS SICIZED UPPER STOREY THAT WOULD BLEND WITH THE OLDER SECTION WHILE IMPROVING THE FACADES PROPORTIONS 4HE SPONSORS NAME IS PICKED OUT ACROSS THE FACADE IN 2OMAN CAPITALS )/(!.%3q/2)#%,,!2)63x WHILE THE 2UCELLAI FAMILY EMBLEM THE BILLOWING SAIL OF &ORTUNE RUNS AS A MOTIF THROUGH THE CENTRAL FRIEZE /NE OTHER EXTERNAL FEATURE IS WORTH NOTING THE ROUTE INTO THE CHURCH TAKES YOU THROUGH THE CEMETERY WHICH n UNIQUELY n IS RINGED BY AN ARCADE OF AVELLI THE COLLECTIVE BURIAL VAULTS OF UPPER CLASS FAMILIES
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4HE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA
& , /2% .#% 4HE 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA DISTRICT
AND HIS COLLEAGUES WON THE OPEN COMPETITION TO DESIGN THE MAIN RAIL TERMINAL FOR ONE OF THE COUNTRYS SHOWPIECE CITIES )TS AN EXAMPLE OF IMPECCABLY RATIONAL PLANNING SO PERFECTLY DESIGNED FOR ITS FUNCTION THAT NO MAJOR ALTERATIONS HAVE BEEN NECESSARY IN THE HALF CENTURY SINCE ITS COMPLETION #ROSS THE ROAD FROM THE FRONT OF THE TRAIN STATION AND YOURE ON THE EDGE OF A ZONE FREE FROM THE HAZARDS OF SPEEDING TRAFlC AND PETROL FUMES /N THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA n WHOSE BACK DIRECTLY FACES THE STA TION n LIES 0IAZZA 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA A SQUARE WITH A DISTINCTLY SQUALID UNDERTONE THOUGH THE DEVELOPMENT OF AN UPMARKET HOTEL COMPLEX ON THE EASTERN SIDE FORMERLY SOMETHING OF A BACKPACKERS DEN AND THE LONG AWAITED OPENING OF THE !LINARI PHOTOGRAPHY MUSEUM IN THE ,OGGIA DI 3AN 0AOLO WILL DOUBTLESS BE FOLLOWED BY MORE STRINGENT POLICING OF THE AREA
5 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA
3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLAS INTERIOR n WHICH WAS DESIGNED SPECIlCALLY TO ENABLE PREACHERS TO ADDRESS THEIR SERMONS TO AS LARGE A CONGREGATION AS POSSIBLE n IS lLLED WITH MASTERWORKS NOT LEAST A GROUND BREAKING PAINTING BY -ASACCIO A CRUCIlX BY 'IOTTO AND NO FEWER THAN THREE MAJOR FRESCO CYCLES
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4HE #APPELLA DI &ILIPPO 3TROZZI
)N THE CHAPEL TO THE RIGHT OF THE CHANCEL WAS BOUGHT BY &ILIPPO 3TROZZI A WEALTHY BANKER WHO THEN COMMISSIONED &ILIPPINO ,IPPI TO PAINT A MUCH
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& , /2% .#% 4HE 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA DISTRICT
INTERRUPTED FRESCO CYCLE n ON THE LIFE OF HIS NAMESAKE 3T 0HILIP - /Ê ,Ê "6 THE !POSTLE A SAINT RARELY PORTRAYED
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iÊ7`iÀiÃÃ NER AND YOULL SEE A MINUSCULE lGURE OF #HRIST ABOUT THE SAME SIZE AS ONE OF THE VASES BEHIND THE lGURE OF -ARS 4HE LEFT WALL DEPICTS 4HE 2AISING OF $RUSIANA AND THE !TTEMPTED -ARTYRDOM OF 3T *OHN THE LATTER SCENE ALLUDES TO THE PERSECUTIONS OF THE EMPEROR $OMITIAN DURING WHICH *OHN WAS DIPPED IN BOILING OIL IN AN ATTEMPT TO KILL HIM n BUT THE !POSTLE EMERGED MIRACULOUSLY REJUVENATED BY THE EXPERIENCE 4HE VAULTS PORTRAY !DAM .OAH *ACOB AND !BRAHAM AND LIKE THE CHAPELS STAINED GLASS AND IMPRESSIVE TROMPE LOEIL DECORATION WERE ALSO THE WORK OF ,IPPI "EHIND THE ALTAR OF THIS CHAPEL IS 3TROZZIS TOMB n BEAUTIFULLY CARVED BY "ENE DETTO DA -AIANO 4HE CHANCEL #APPELLA 4ORNABUONI
!S A CHRONICLE OF lFTEENTH CENTURY LIFE IN &LORENCE NO SERIES OF FRESCOES IS MORE FASCINATING THAN $OMENICO 'HIRLANDAIOS PICTURES AROUND THE CHANCEL AND HIGH ALTAR /STENSIBLY DEPICTING SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF THE 6IRGIN LEFT WALL AND EPISODES FROM THE LIFE OF 3T *OHN THE "APTIST THE PAINTINGS WERE COMMISSIONED BY 'IOVANNI 4ORNABUONI A BANKER AND UNCLE OF ,ORENZO DE -EDICI ,ORENZO THE -AGNIlCENT WHICH EXPLAINS WHY THEY ARE LIBERALLY SPRINKLED WITH CONTEM PORARY PORTRAITS AND NARRATIVE DETAILS n SUCH AS CERTAIN ILLUSTRIOUS LADIES OF THE 4ORNABUONI FAMILY BEING PRESENT AT THE BIRTHS OF BOTH *OHN THE "APTIST AND THE 6IRGIN 3UCH SELF GLORIlCATION MADE THE FRESCOES THE OBJECT OF SPECIAL IRE AFTER THEY WERE COMPLETED DRAWING THE VITRIOL OF 3AVONAROLA DURING HIS HELLlRE AND BRIMSTONE SERMONS SEE P )N TRUTH THERE ARE FEW FRESCOES IN THE CITY WITH SUCH IMMEDIATE CHARM AND NONE WHICH ARE SO SELF CONSCIOUS A CELEBRATION OF &LORENCE AT ITS ZENITH n ITS NO ACCIDENT THAT ONE OF THE FRESCOES ON THE RIGHT HAND WALL INCLUDES A PROMINENT ,ATIN INSCRIPTION ON AN ARCH TO THE RIGHT WHICH READS h4HE YEAR WHEN
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\ 4HE 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA DISTRICT
THE MOST BEAUTIFUL CITY RENOWNED FOR ABUNDANCE VICTORIES ARTS AND NOBLE BUILD INGS PROFOUNDLY ENJOYED SALUBRITY AND PEACEv (AVING FOUND THE INSCRIPTION YOU MIGHT THEN WANT TO IDENTIFY SOME OF THE PORTRAITS SCATTERED AROUND THE PAINTINGS 'HIRLANDAIO FEATURES AS A SELF PORTRAIT IN THE SCENE LEFT WALL IN WHICH *OACHIM THE 6IRGINS FATHER IS CHASED FROM THE TEMPLE BECAUSE HE HAS BEEN UNABLE TO HAVE CHILDREN n THE PAINTER IS THE lGURE IN THE RIGHT HAND GROUP WITH HAND ON HIP )N THE NEIGHBOURING FRESCO THE YOUNG WOMAN IN THE WHITE AND GOLD DRESS LEADING THE GROUP OF WOMEN IS ,UDOVICA 4ORNABUONIS ONLY DAUGHTER WHO DIED IN CHILDBIRTH AGED ITS DOUBTLESS NO ACCIDENT THAT THE SCENE PAINTED IN THE FRESCO DEPICTS THE BIRTH OF THE 6IRGIN !CROSS THE CHANCEL ON THE RIGHT WALL THE 6ISITATION FEATURES 'IOVANNA DEGLI !LBIZI 4ORNABUONIS DAUGHTER IN LAW WHO ALSO DIED IN CHILDBIRTH n SHES THE lRST OF THE TRIO OF WOMEN TO THE RIGHT OF THE 6IRGIN 4HE "IRTH OF 3T *OHN THE "APTIST FEATURES 4ORNABUONIS SISTER ,UCREZIA BETTER KNOWN AS THE MOTHER OF ,ORENZO DE -EDICI THE -AGNIlCENT SHES THE WOMAN IN FRONT OF THE SERVANT CARRYING THE FRUIT ON HER HEAD 4HE #APPELLA 3TROZZI
4HE NEXT CHAPEL BEYOND THE CHANCEL IS THE #APPELLA 'ONDI WHICH HOUSES "RUNELLESCHIS CRUCIlX SUPPOSEDLY CARVED AS A RIPOSTE TO THE UNCOUTHNESS OF $ONATELLOS CROSS IN 3ANTA #ROCE )T IS THE ARTISTS ONLY SURVIVING SCULPTURE IN WOOD ,EGEND CLAIMS THAT $ONATELLO WAS SO STRUCK ON SEEING HIS RIVALS WORK THAT HE DROPPED A BASKET OF EGGS %VEN MORE STARTLING HOWEVER IS THE GREAT FRESCO CYCLE IN THE NEXT CHAPEL BUT ONE THE #APPELLA 3TROZZI WHICH LIES ABOVE THE LEVEL OF THE REST OF THE CHURCH AT THE END OF THE NORTH LEFT TRANSEPT )TS FRESCOES n WERE COMMISSIONED AS AN EXPIATION OF THE SIN OF USURY BY 4OMMASO 3TROZZI AN ANCESTOR OF &ILIPPO 3TROZZI PATRON OF THE CHAPEL ACROSS THE CHURCH 4HE PICTURES ARE THE MASTERPIECE OF .ARDO DI #IONE BROTHER OF THE BETTER KNOWN /RCAGNA !NDREA DI #IONE WITH WHOM .ARDO COLLABORATED TO DESIGN THE CHAPELS STAINED GLASS /RCAGNA ALONE PAINTED THE CHAPELS MAGNIlCENT HIGH ALTARPIECE #HRIST 0RE SENTING THE +EYS TO 3T 0ETER AND THE "OOK OF 7ISDOM TO 4HOMAS !QUINAS ! PROPAGANDA EXERCISE ON BEHALF OF THE $OMINICANS THE PICTURE SHOWS #HRIST BESTOWING FAVOUR ON BOTH 3T 0ETER AND 3T 4HOMAS !QUINAS THE LATTER A lGURE SECOND ONLY TO 3T $OMINIC IN THE ORDERS HIERARCHY "EHIND THE ALTAR THE CEN TRAL FRESCO DEPICTS THE ,AST *UDGEMENT WITH $ANTE FEATURED AS ONE OF THE SAVED IN WHITE THIRD FROM THE LEFT SECOND ROW FROM THE TOP 3O TOO ARE 4OMMASO 3TROZZI AND HIS WIFE SHOWN BEING LED BY 3T -ICHAEL INTO PARADISE WITH AN ANGEL HELPING THE RIGHTEOUS UP THROUGH A TRAPDOOR ON THE RIGHT OF THE ALTAR A DEVIL FORKS THE DAMNED DOWN INTO HELL 4HE THEME OF JUDGEMENT IS CONTINUED IN THE BLEACHED FRESCO OF $ANTES )NFERNO ON THE RIGHT WALL FACED BY A THRONGED 0ARADISO ON THE LEFT 4HE -USEO DI 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA
&URTHER REMARKABLE PAINTINGS ARE TO BE FOUND IN THE SPACIOUS 2OMANESQUE CONVENTUAL BUILDINGS TO THE LEFT OF THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA HOME TO THE -USEO DI 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA -ONn4HURS 3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM + 4HE lRST SET OF CLOISTERS BEYOND THE ENTRANCE THE #HIOSTRO 6ERDE DATING FROM TO FEATURES DAMAGED BUT NONETHELESS REMARKABLE FRESCOES OF 3TORIES FROM 'ENESIS n EXECUTED BY 0AOLO 5CCELLO AND HIS WORKSHOP 4HE CLOISTER TAKES ITS NAME FROM THE GREEN BASE TERRA VERDE PIGMENT THEY USED AND WHICH NOW GIVES THE PAINTINGS A SPECTRAL UNDERTONE 4HE WINDSWEPT IMAGE OF 4HE &LOOD THE BEST PRESERVED OF THE CLOISTERS FRESCOES IS RENDERED ALMOST UNINTELLIGIBLE BY THE TELESCOPING PERSPECTIVE AND
0AOLO 5CCELLO
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& , /2% .#% 4HE 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA DISTRICT
3OME OF THE MOST CURIOUS AND HAUNTING IMAGES TO COME OUT OF THE &LORENTINE 2ENAIS SANCE ARE THE PRODUCTS OF 0AOLO 5CCELLOS OBSESSION WITH THE PROBLEMS OF PERSPEC TIVE AND FORESHORTENING "ORN IN HE TRAINED IN 'HIBERTIS WORKSHOP BEFORE MOV ING TO 6ENICE WHERE HE WAS EMPLOYED ON MOSAICS FOR THE "ASILICA DI 3AN -ARCO (E WORKED PERIODICALLY IN &LORENCE RETURNING FOR AN EXTENDED PERIOD IN &IVE YEARS LATER HE WAS CONTRACTED TO PAINT THE COMMEMORATIVE PORTRAIT OF 3IR *OHN (AWKWOOD IN THE $UOMO SEE P THE TROMPE LOEIL PAINTING WHICH GIVES THE lRST EVIDENCE OF HIS INTEREST IN FORESHORTENING !FTER AN INTERLUDE IN 0ADUA 5CCELLO COMPLETED THE FRESCOES FOR THE CLOISTER OF 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA IN WHICH HIS SYSTEMATIC BUT NON NATURALISTIC USE OF PERSPECTIVE IS SEEN AT ITS MOST EXTREME )N THE FOLLOWING DECADE HE PAINTED THE THREE SCENE SEQUENCE OF THE "ATTLE OF 3AN 2OMANO ,OUVRE ,ONDON .ATIONAL 'ALLERY AND 5FlZI FOR THE -EDICI n HIS MOST AMBITIOUS NON FRESCO PAINTINGS AND SIMILARLY NOTABLE FOR THEIR UNSETTLING MULTIPLE PERSPECTIVES AND STRANGE USE OF FORESHORTENING 5CCELLO WAS DRIVEN HALFWAY ROUND THE BEND BY THE STUDY OF PERSPECTIVE LOCKING HIMSELF AWAY FOR WEEKS AT A TIME WHEN HED GOT HIS TEETH INTO A PARTICULARLY THORNY PROBLEM #HRONICALLY INCAPABLE OF LOOKING AFTER HIS MORE MUNDANE CONCERNS HE WAS DESTITUTE BY THE TIME OF HIS DEATH IN h) AM OLD AND WITHOUT MEANS OF LIVELIHOOD -Y WIFE IS SICK AND ) AM UNABLE TO WORK ANY MOREv 9ET HE LEFT BEHIND SOME OF THE MOST ARRESTING PAINTINGS OF THE 2ENAISSANCE IN WHICH HIS PREOCCUPATION WITH MATH EMATICAL PRECISION COEXISTS WITH A FUNDAMENTALLY 'OTHIC SENSE OF PAGEANTRY
THE DOUBLE APPEARANCE OF THE ARK BEFORE AND AFTER THE mOOD WHOSE mANKS FORM A RECEDING CORRIDOR IN THE CENTRE OF THE PICTURE ON THE LEFT THE ARK IS RISING ON THE DELUGE ON THE RIGHT IT HAS COME TO REST AS THE WATERS SUBSIDE )N THE FOREGROUND TWO MEN lGHT EACH OTHER IN THEIR DESPERATION TO STAY ALIVE THE CHEQUERED LIFEBELT THAT ONE OF THESE MEN IS WEARING AROUND HIS NECK IS A FAVOURITE 5CCELLO DEVICE FOR DEMONSTRATING A MASTERY OF PERSPECTIVE n ITS A MAZZOCCHIO A FACETED WICKER RING ROUND WHICH A TURBANNED HEADDRESS WAS WRAPPED !NOTHER MAN GRABS THE ANKLES OF THE VISIONARY lGURE IN THE FOREGROUND n PRESUMABLY .OAH THOUGH HE IS A MUCH YOUNGER .OAH THAN THE HIRSUTE PATRIARCH LEANING OUT OF THE ARK ON THE RIGHT TO RECEIVE THE DOVES OLIVE BRANCH )N THE RIGHT FOREGROUND THERES A PREVIEW OF THE UNIVERSAL DEVASTATION WITH TINY CORPSES LAID OUT ON THE DECK AND A CROW GOBBLING AN EYEBALL FROM ONE OF THE DROWNED 4HE #APPELLONE DEGLI 3PAGNOLI
/FF THE CLOISTER OPENS WHAT WAS ONCE THE CHAPTERHOUSE OF THE IMMENSELY RICH CONVENT OF 3ANTA -ARIA THE #APPELLONE DEGLI 3PAGNOLI OR 3PANISH #HAPEL WHICH FOR A TIME WAS THE HEADQUARTERS OF THE )NQUISITION )T RECEIVED ITS PRESENT NAME AFTER %LEONORA DI 4OLEDO WIFE OF #OSIMO ) RESERVED IT FOR THE USE OF HER 3PANISH ENTOURAGE 0RESUMABLY SHE DERIVED MUCH INSPIRATION FROM ITS MAJESTIC FRESCO CYCLE n BY !NDREA DI &IRENZE AN EXTENDED DEPICTION OF THE TRI UMPH OF THE #ATHOLIC #HURCH THAT WAS DESCRIBED BY 2USKIN AS hTHE MOST NOBLE PIECE OF PICTORIAL PHILOSOPHY IN )TALYv 6IRTUALLY EVERY PATCH OF THE WALLS IS COVERED WITH FRESCOES WHOSE THEME IS THE ROLE OF THE $OMINICANS IN THE BATTLE AGAINST HERESY AND IN THE SALVATION OF #HRISTIAN SOULS 4HE LEFT WALL AS YOU ENTER DEPICTS 4HE 4RIUMPH OF $IVINE 7IS DOM A TRIUMPH EXEMPLIlED BY 4HOMAS !QUINAS WHO IS PORTRAYED ENTHRONED BELOW THE 6IRGIN AND !POSTLES AMIDST THE WINGED 6IRTUES AND THE hWISE MENv
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\ .ORTH OF THE CENTRE THE 3AN ,ORENZO 3AN -ARCO AND !NNUNZIATA DISTRICTS
OF THE /LD AND .EW 4ESTAMENTS 4HE MORE SPECTACULAR RIGHT WALL DEPICTS 4HE 4RIUMPH OF THE #HURCH OR MORE SPECIlCALLY THE h-ISSION 7ORK AND 4RIUMPH OF THE $OMINICAN /RDERv !T THE BOTTOM IS A BUILDING SUPPOSED TO BE &LORENCES CATHEDRAL A PINKY PURPLE CREATION IMAGINED ONE HUNDRED YEARS BEFORE THE STRUCTURE WAS COMPLETED "EFORE IT STAND THE POPE AND (OLY 2OMAN %MPEROR SOCIETYS ULTIMATE SPIRITUAL AND TEMPORAL RULERS )N FRONT OF THEM STAND RANKS OF lGURES REPRESENTING RELIGIOUS ORDERS AMONG WHICH THE $OMINICANS ARE NATURALLY PRE EMINENT )N PARTICULAR NOTE 3T $OMINIC THE ORDERS FOUNDER UNLEASHING THE hHOUNDS OF THE LORDv OR $OMINI #ANES A PUN ON THE $OMINICANS NAME HERETICS THE DOGS VICTIMS ARE SHOWN AS WOLVES !MONG THE GROUP OF PILGRIMS IN THE CENTRE JUST BELOW THE $UOMO ARE SEVERAL PORTRAITS REAL OR IMAGINED #IMABUE STANDING IN A LARGE BROWN CLOAK 'IOTTO BESIDE HIM IN PROlLE WEARING A GREEN CLOAK "OCCACCIO FURTHER RIGHT IN PURPLE HOLDING A CLOSED BOOK 0ETRARCH ABOVE WITH A CLOAK AND WHITE ERMINE HOOD AND $ANTE ALONGSIDE 0ETRARCH IN PROlLE WITH A WHITE CAP !BOVE AND TO THE RIGHT ARE SCENES OF YOUNG PEOPLE DANCING HAWKING PLAY ING MUSIC AND ENGAGING IN OTHER PLEASURES OF THE SORT THAT THE $OMINICANS SO HEARTILY CONDEMNED 4HOSE ABLE TO RESIST SUCH ABOMINATIONS n THE SAVED n ARE SHOWN BEING MAR SHALLED BY A NEARBY FRIAR WHO HEARS THEIR CONFESSION BEFORE DISPATCHING THEM TOWARDS 3T 0ETER AND THE 'ATE OF 0ARADISE /NCE THROUGH THE GATE THE BLESSED ARE SHOWN IN ADORATION OF 'OD AND THE ANGELS WITH THE 6IRGIN AT THEIR MIDST &OREMOST AMONG THOSE CONFESSING IS THE CHAPELS DONOR ONE "UONAMICO 'UI DALOTTI SHOWN KNEELING WHO PAID FOR THE CHAPEL IN HONOUR OF HIS WIFE WHO DIED DURING THE PLAGUE 4HE FAR WALL SHOWS SCENES CONNECTED WITH THE #RUCIlXION WITH SOME VERY UNHAPPY DEVILS IN THE BOTTOM RIGHT HAND CORNER WHILE THE NEAR ENTRANCE WALL WHICH IS EXCLUDED FROM THE FRESCOES UNIlED THEME CONTAINS EPISODES FROM THE LIFE OF 3T 0ETER -ARTYR ONE OF THE $OMINI CANS LEADING LIGHTS 4HE CONTEMPORANEOUS DECORATION OF THE #HIOSTRINO DEI -ORTI THE OLDEST PART OF THE COMPLEX HAS NOT AGED SO ROBUSTLY IT WAS CLOSED FOR RESTORATION AT THE TIME OF WRITING 4HE #HIOSTRO 'RANDE TO THE WEST IS ALSO OUT OF BOUNDS BUT FOR THE MORE UNUSUAL REASON THAT IT IS A PRACTICE PARADE GROUND FOR ASPIRING CARABINIERI )TALYS SEMI MILITARY POLICE FORCE 4HE SMALL MUSEUM ADJOINING THE #HIOSTRO 'RANDE IS NOTABLE CHIEmY FOR SOME PECULIARLY GLAMOROUS FOURTEENTH AND lFTEENTH CENTURY RELIQUARY BUSTS CONTAINING REMNANTS OF 3T 5RSULA AND -ARY -AGDALENE AMONG OTHERS
.ORTH OF THE CENTRE THE 3AN ,ORENZO 3AN -ARCO AND !NNUNZIATA DISTRICTS ! FEW BLOCKS FROM THE TRAIN STATION AND THE $UOMO LIES THE 3AN ,ORENZO DISTRICT THE CITYS MAIN MARKET AREA WITH SCORES OF STALLS ENCIRCLING A VAST AND WONDERFUL FOOD HALL 4HE RACKS OF 4 SHIRTS LEATHER JACKETS AND BELTS ALMOST ENGULF THE CHURCH OF 3AN ,ORENZO A BUILDING OF MAJOR IMPORTANCE THATS OFTEN OVERLOOKED IN THE RUSH TO THE $UOMO AND THE 5FlZI !TTACHED TO THE CHURCH IS ANOTHER OF THE CITYS MAJOR DRAWS THE #APPELLE -EDICEE -EDICI #HAPELS 7HILE VARIOUS OF THE -EDICIS MOST IMPORTANT MEMBERS ARE BURIED IN THE MAIN PART OF 3AN ,ORENZO DOZENS OF LESSER LIGHTS ARE INTERRED IN THESE CHAPELS WITH TWO OF THE MOST VENAL BEING CELEBRATED BY SOME OF -ICHELANGELOS lNEST
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&OUNDED IN 3AN ,ORENZO -ONn3AT AMnPM + HAS A CLAIM TO BE THE OLDEST CHURCH IN &LORENCE &OR SOME THREE HUN DRED YEARS IT WAS THE CITYS CATHE DRAL BEFORE RENOUNCING ITS TITLE TO 3ANTA 2EPARATA THE PRECURSOR OF THE $UOMO "Y A SIZEABLE 2OMANESQUE CHURCH HAD BEEN BUILT ON THE SITE A BUILDING WHICH IN TIME BECAME THE -EDICIS PARISH CHURCH BENElTING GREATLY OVER THE YEARS FROM THE FAMILYS MUNIlCENCE 4HE FAMILY WAS IN A PARTICULARLY GENEROUS MOOD IN WHEN A COMMITTEE OF EIGHT PARISHIONERS HEADED BY 'IOVANNI DI "ICCI DE -EDICI FOUNDER OF THE -EDICI FORTUNE OFFERED TO lNANCE A NEW CHURCH "RUNELLESCHI WAS COM MISSIONED TO BEGIN THE PROJECT STARTING WORK ON THE 3AGRESTIA 6EC CHIA /LD 3ACRISTY BEFORE BEING GIVEN THE GO AHEAD TWO YEARS LATER TO REBUILD THE ENTIRE CHURCH #ONSTRUCTION LAPSED OVER THE NEXT TWENTY YEARS HAMPERED BY lNANCIAL PROBLEMS POLITICAL UPHEAVALS AND "RUNELLESCHIS SIMULTANEOUS WORK ON THE CATHEDRAL DOME 'IOVANNIS SON #OSIMO DE -EDICI EVENTUALLY GAVE THE WORK FRESH IMPETUS WITH A GRANT OF lORINI mORINS n AT A TIME WHEN mORINS WOULD SUPPORT A &LORENTINE FAMILY FOR A YEAR #OSIMOS LARGESSE SAVED THE DAY BUT WAS STILL NOT SUFlCIENT TO PROVIDE THE CHURCH WITH A FACADE .O LESS A lGURE THAN -ICHELANGELO LABOURED TO REMEDY THE OMISSION ONE OF MANY TO DEVOTE TIME TO A SCHEME TO PROVIDE A SUITABLE FRONT
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3AN ,ORENZO
& , /2% .#% .ORTH OF THE CENTRE THE 3AN ,ORENZO 3AN -ARCO AND !NNUNZIATA DISTRICTS
FUNERARY SCULPTURE 4HE -EDICI ALSO ACCOUNT FOR THE AREAS OTHER MAJOR SIGHT THE 0ALAZZO -EDICI 2ICCARDI WITH ITS EXQUISITE FRESCO COVERED CHAPEL WHILE THE MOST CELEBRATED OF ALL -ICHELANGELOS WORKS IN STONE n THE $AVID n CAN BE ADMIRED IN THE NEARBY GALLERIES OF THE !CCADEMIA 4HE DEVOTIONAL ART OF &RA !NGELICO lLLS THE NEARBY -USEO DI 3AN -ARCO WHICH IN TURN IS BUT A STROLL AWAY FROM 0IAZZA 3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATA ONE OF &LORENCES MOST PHOTOGENIC LOCALES THANKS TO "RUNELLESCHIS 3PEDALE DEGLI )NNOCENTI AND THE CHURCH OF 3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATA
AGE .ONE OF THE EFFORTS WAS TO ANY AVAIL TO THIS DAY THE EXTERIORS BARE BRICK HAS NEVER BEEN CLAD 4HE INTERIOR & , /2% .#%
\ .ORTH OF THE CENTRE THE 3AN ,ORENZO 3AN -ARCO AND !NNUNZIATA DISTRICTS
7HEN YOU STEP INSIDE THE CHURCH WHAT STRIKES YOU lRST IS THE COOL RATIONALITY OF "RUNELLESCHIS DESIGN AN INSTANTLY CALMING CONTRAST TO THE HUBBUB OUTSIDE 3AN ,ORENZO WAS THE EARLIER OF "RUNELLESCHIS GREAT &LORENTINE CHURCHES THE OTHER IS 3ANTO 3PIRITO BUT ALREADY DISPLAYS HIS MASTERY OF #LASSICAL DECORATIVE MOTIFS AND MATHEMATICALLY PLANNED PROPORTIONS 4HE lRST WORK OF ART TO CATCH YOUR ATTENTION IN THE SECOND CHAPEL ON THE RIGHT IS 2OSSO &IORENTINOS -ARRIAGE OF THE 6IRGIN WITH ITS UNIQUELY GOLDEN HAIRED AND YOUTHFUL *OSEPH 4HERES ANOTHER ARRESTING PAINTING AT THE TOP OF THE LEFT AISLE n "RONZINOS ENORMOUS FRESCO OF 4HE -ARTYRDOM OF 3T ,AWRENCE n BUT IT SEEMS A SHALLOW PIECE OF WORK ALONGSIDE THE NEARBY BRONZE PULPITS BY $ONATELLO #LAD WITH RELIEFS DEPICTING SCENES PRECEDING AND FOLLOWING THE #RUCIlXION THESE ARE THE ARTISTS LAST WORKS BEGUN C AND WERE COMPLETED BY HIS PUPILS AS INCREASING PARALYSIS LIMITED THEIR MASTERS ABILITY TO MODEL IN WAX *AGGED AND DISCOMFORTING CHARGED WITH MORE ENERGY THAN THE SPACE CAN CONTAIN THESE PANELS ARE MORE LIKE BRUTAL SKETCHES IN BRONZE THAN CONVENTIONAL RELIEFS $ONATELLO IS BURIED IN THE NAVE OF THE CHURCH NEXT TO HIS PATRON #OSIMO DE -EDICI AND COMMEMORATED BY A MEMORIAL ON THE RIGHT WALL OF THE CHAPEL IN THE NORTH TRANSEPT CLOSE TO &ILIPPO ,IPPIS ALTARPIECE OF THE !NNUNCIA TION )N THE CENTRE OF THE CHURCH THE TOMB OF #OSIMO DE -EDICI BEARS THE INSCRIPTION h0ATER 0ATRIAEv &ATHER OF THE &ATHERLAND n A TITLE ONCE BORNE BY 2OMAN EMPERORS 4HE 3AGRESTIA 6ECCHIA
&OUR MORE LEADING -EDICI MEMBERS LIE BURIED IN THE 3AGRESTIA 6ECCHIA OR /LD 3ACRISTY ONE OF "RUNELLESCHIS EARLIEST PROJECTS n AND THE ONLY ONE COMPLETED IN HIS LIFETIME "RUNELLESCHIS BIOGRAPHER -ANETTI WROTE THAT hIT ASTOUNDED ALL MEN BOTH OF THE CITY AND FOREIGNERS FOR ITS NEW AND BEAUTIFUL MANNER !ND SO MANY PEOPLE CAME CONTINUOUSLY THAT THEY GREATLY BOTHERED THOSE WHO WORKED THEREv 4HE SPACE WAS COMMISSIONED BY 'IOVANNI "ICCI DE -EDICI THE PRINCIPAL FOUNDER OF THE -EDICI FORTUNE AS A PRIVATE CHAPEL /N HIS DEATH 'IOVANNI ALONG WITH HIS WIFE 0ICCARDA WAS BURIED BENEATH THE MASSIVE MARBLE SLAB AT THE CENTRE OF THE CHAPEL !NOTHER TOMB EASILY MISSED LIES IMMEDIATELY ON THE LEFT AS YOU ENTER THE LAST RESTING PLACE OF 'IOVANNIS GRANDSONS 'IOVANNI AND 0IERO DE -EDICI IT WAS COMMISSIONED FROM 6ERROCCHIO IN BY ,ORENZO DE -EDICI 4O THE MODERN EYE THE TOMB LOOKS RELATIVELY PLAIN BUT A &LORENTINE OF THE DAY WOULD HAVE BEEN ABUNDANTLY AWARE THAT IT WAS MADE FROM THE THREE MOST PRE CIOUS MATERIALS OF ANTIQUITY n MARBLE PORPHYRY AND BRONZE -ORE ARRESTING THAN EITHER OF THE TOMBS HOWEVER IS THE CHAPELS ORNAMENTA TION (ERE "RUNELLESCHIS GENIUS WAS COMPLEMENTED BY THE DECORATIVE ACUMEN OF $ONATELLO WHO WORKED IN THE SACRISTY BETWEEN AND SOME TWENTY YEARS BEFORE SCULPTING THE PULPITS IN THE MAIN BODY OF THE CHURCH (E WAS RESPONSIBLE FOR BOTH THE CHERUB lLLED FRIEZE AND THE EIGHT EXTRAORDINARY TONDOS ABOVE IT 4HE TONDOS SUBJECTS ARE THE FOUR %VANGELISTS AND A QUARTET OF SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF 3T *OHN THE %VANGELIST 4WO LARGE RELIEFS ALSO PROBABLY BY $ONATELLO ADORN THE SPACE ABOVE THE TWO DOORS ON THE END WALL ONE SHOWS 33 ,AWRENCE AND 3TEPHEN TWIN PROTECTORS OF &LORENCE THE OTHER 33 #OSMAS AND $AMIAN 4HESE LAST TWO TWINS AND EARLY #HRISTIAN MARTYRS WERE THE PATRON SAINTS OF DOCTORS MEDICI AND THUS OF THE
! GATEWAY TO THE LEFT OF THE CHURCH FACADE LEADS THROUGH A PLEASANT CLOISTER AND THROUGH A DOORWAY UP TO THE "IBLIOTECA -EDICEA ,AURENZIANA -ONn3AT AMnPM FREE EXCEPT DURING SPECIAL EXHIBITIONS 7ISHING TO CREATE A SUITABLY GRANDIOSE HOME FOR THE PRECIOUS MANUSCRIPTS ASSEMBLED BY #OSIMO AND ,ORENZO DE -EDICI 0OPE #LEMENT 6)) n ,ORENZOS NEPHEW n ASKED -ICHELANGELO TO DESIGN A NEW -EDICI LIBRARY IN 4HE 2ICETTO OR VESTIBULE n OF THE BUILDING HE EVENTUALLY CAME UP WITH IS A REVOLUTIONARY SHOW PIECE OF -ANNERIST ARCHITECTURE DELIGHTING IN PARADOXICAL DISPLAY BRACKETS THAT SUPPORT NOTHING COLUMNS THAT SINK INTO THE WALLS RATHER THAN STAND OUT FROM THEM AND A mIGHT OF STEPS SO LARGE THAT IT ALMOST lLLS THE ROOM SPILLING DOWN LIKE A SOLIDIlED LAVA mOW &ROM THIS ECCENTRIC SPACE YOURE SOMETIMES ALLOWED INTO THE TRANQUIL READING ROOM HERE TOO ALMOST EVERYTHING IS THE WORK OF -ICHELANGELO EVEN THE INLAID DESKS %XHIBITIONS IN THE CONNECTING ROOMS DRAW ON THE PIECE -EDICI COLLECTION WHICH INCLUDES MANUSCRIPTS AS DIVERSE AS A lFTH CENTURY COPY OF 6IR GIL n THE COLLECTIONS OLDEST ITEM n AND A TREATISE ON ARCHITECTURE BY ,EONARDO .OTE HOW THE COFFERED CEILING AND TERRACOTTA mOOR MIRROR EACH OTHERS DESIGNS
4HE #APPELLE -EDICEE -ICHELANGELOS MOST CELEBRATED CONTRIBUTION TO THE 3AN ,ORENZO COMPLEX FORMS PART OF THE #APPELLE -EDICEE 4UESn3AT AMnPM ST RD TH 3UN OF MONTH AND ND TH -ON OF MONTH SAME HOURS + ENTERED FROM 0IAZZA -ADONNA DEGLI !LDOBRANDINI AT THE BACK OF THE CHURCH 4HESE CHAPELS DIVIDE INTO THREE SECTIONS THE CRYPT BURIAL PLACE OF MANY MINOR -EDICI THE #APPELLA DEI 0RINCIPI HOUSING THE TOMBS OF SIX OF THE MORE MAJOR -EDICI AND THE 3AGRESTIA .UOVA HOME TO THREE MAJOR GROUPS OF -ICHELANGELO SCULPTURE (ARDLY ANY OF THE -EDICI HOWEVER HUMBLE SUFFERED THE INDIGNITY OF A MODEST GRAVE 3OME MIGHT HAVE EXPECTED MORE THOUGH THAN THE LOW VAULTED CRYPT OF THE #APPELLE -EDICEE HOME TO THE BRASS RAILED TOMBS OF MANY OF THE FAMILYS LESSER LIGHTS -OST WERE PLACED HERE IN BY &ERDINAND ))) WITH WHAT APPEARS TO HAVE BEEN SCANT REGARD FOR HIS ANCESTORS ONE CONTEMPORARY RECORDED HOW THE DUKE HAD THE CORPSES THROWN hTOGETHER PELL MELL CARING SCARCELY TO DIS TINGUISH ONE FROM THE OTHERv !FTER lLING THROUGH THE CRYPT YOU CLIMB STEPS AT ITS REAR INTO THE LARGER OF THE CHAPELS THE #APPELLA DEI 0RINCIPI #HAPEL OF THE 0RINCES A MORBID AND
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4HE "IBLIOTECA -EDICEA ,AURENZIANA
& , /2% .#% .ORTH OF THE CENTRE THE 3AN ,ORENZO 3AN -ARCO AND !NNUNZIATA DISTRICTS
-EDICI WHO WERE PROBABLY DESCENDED FROM DOCTORS OR APOTHECARIES "Y HAPPY COINCIDENCE #OSIMO DE -EDICI THE CHURCHS CHIEF PATRON WAS BORN ON THE SAINTS FEAST DAY 3EPTEMBER SO THE TWO ARE OFTEN SEEN IN PAINTINGS OR BUILD INGS COMMISSIONED OR CONNECTED WITH HIM $ONATELLO WAS ALSO RESPONSIBLE FOR THE TWO BRONZE DOORS BELOW WITH THEIR COMBATIVE MARTYRS TO THE LEFT AND THE !POSTLES AND &ATHERS OF THE #HURCH TO THE RIGHT 4HE CHAPEL BEYOND THE LEFT DOOR HAS A SUBLIME LITTLE MARBLE LAVABO PROBABLY BY 6ERROCCHIO MANY OF ITS FANTASTIC CREATURES HAVE -EDICI CONNECTIONS n THE FALCON AND LAMB FOR EXAMPLE ARE THE HERALDIC SYMBOLS OF 0IERO DE -EDICI WHO COMMISSIONED THE WORK ,ASTLY THE STELLAR FRESCO ON THE DOME ABOVE THE RECESSED ALTAR INEVITABLY DRAWS YOUR EYE OPINION DIFFERS AS TO WHETHER THE POSITION OF THE PAINTED STARS IS SYNONYMOUS WITH THE STATE OF THE HEAVENS ON *ULY THE BIRTHDAY OF 0IERO DE -EDICI OR ON *ULY THE DATE ON WHICH THE UNION OF THE %ASTERN AND 7ESTERN CHURCHES WAS CELEBRATED AT THE #OUNCIL OF &LORENCE
& , /2% .#%
\ .ORTH OF THE CENTRE THE 3AN ,ORENZO 3AN -ARCO AND !NNUNZIATA DISTRICTS
DOWDY MARBLE PLATED HALL BUILT AS A MAUSOLEUM FOR #OSIMO ) AND THE GRAND DUKES WHO SUCCEEDED HIM 4HE OCTAGONAL CHAPEL TOOK AS ITS INSPIRATION THE mOORPLAN OF NO LESS A BUILDING THAN THE "APTISTERY AND THE EXTENT OF -EDICI CONCEIT WAS UNDERLINED BY THE CHAPELS INTENDED CENTREPIECE n THE (OLY 3EP ULCHRE OF #HRIST A PRIZE THAT HAD TO BE FORFEITED WHEN THE PASHA REFUSED TO SELL IT AND AN EXPEDITION SENT TO *ERUSALEM TO STEAL IT RETURNED EMPTY HANDED $ISMISSED BY "YRON AS A hlNE FRIPPERY IN GREAT SLABS OF VARIOUS EXPENSIVE STONES TO COMMEMORATE ROTTEN AND FORGOTTEN CARCASSESv THIS WAS THE MOST EXPENSIVE BUILDING PROJECT EVER lNANCED BY THE -EDICI AND THE FAMILY WERE STILL PAYING FOR IT IN WHEN THE LAST OF THE LINE !NNA -ARIA ,UDOVICA JOINED HER FORE BEARS IN THE BASEMENT 3CAFFOLDING SUITABLY RICH IN GOLD AND BLACK HAS ADORNED THE WALLS SINCE A SECTION OF CORNICE FELL OFF IN *ANUARY REVEALING MAJOR STRUCTURAL FAULTS 4HE 3AGRESTIA .UOVA
"EGUN IN THE 3AGRESTIA .UOVA WAS DESIGNED BY -ICHELANGELO AS A TRIB UTE TO AND RE INVENTION OF "RUNELLESCHIS 3AGRESTIA 6ECCHIA IN THE MAIN BODY OF 3AN ,ORENZO !RCHITECTURAL EXPERTS GO INTO RAPTURES OVER THE SOPHISTICATION OF THE ARCHITECTURE NOTABLY THE EMPTY NICHES ABOVE THE DOORS WHICH PLAY COMPLEX GAMES WITH THE VOCABULARY OF CLASSICAL ARCHITECTURE BUT THE LAY PERSON WILL BE DRAWN TO THE THREE FABULOUS -EDICI TOMBS n TWO WHOLLY AND ONE PARTLY BY -ICHELANGELO 4HE SCULPTOR WAS AWARDED THE COMMISSIONS BY 0OPE ,EO 8 n A -EDICI n AND THE POPES COUSIN #ARDINAL 'IULIO DE -EDICI LATER TO BECOME 0OPE #LEMENT 6))
5 .IGHT FROM 'IULIANO DE -EDICIS TOMB
/N THE EDGE OF THE SQUARE IN FRONT OF 3AN ,ORENZO STANDS THE 0ALAZZO -EDICI 2ICCARDI DAILY EXCEPT 7ED AMnPM + BUILT FOR #OSIMO DE -EDICI BY -ICHELOZZO BETWEEN AND POSSIBLY TO A PLAN BY "RUNELLESCHI !NOTHER STORY HAS IT THAT #OSIMO DID INDEED ASK "RUNELLESCHI TO DESIGN THE NEW PALACE BUT THE RESULT WAS SO GRANDIOSE THAT #OSIMO REJECTED IT ON POLITICAL GROUNDS SAYING hENVY IS A PLANT ONE SHOULD NEVER WATERv "RUNELLESCHI WHO WAS RENOWNED FOR HIS TEMPER IS SAID TO HAVE SMASHED THE SPLENDID MODEL IN RAGE 7ITH ITS HEAVILY RUSTICATED EXTERIOR THIS PALACE WAS THE PROTOTYPE FOR SEVERAL MAJOR &LORENTINE BUILDINGS MOST NOTABLY THE 0ALAZZO 0ITTI AND 0ALAZZO 3TRO ZZI AND IT REMAINED THE FAMILY HOME AND -EDICI BUSINESS HEADQUARTERS UNTIL #OSIMO ) MOVED TO THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO IN !FTER THE PALACE WAS GREATLY ALTERED BY ITS NEW OWNERS THE 2ICCARDI AND IT NOW HOUSES THE OFlCES OF THE PROVINCIAL GOVERNMENT 4HE CHIEF ATTRACTION FOR TOURISTS IS THE CYCLE OF 'OZZOLI FRESCOES IN THE CHAPEL WHICH A MAXIMUM OF SEVEN PEOPLE MAY VIEW AT ANY ONE TIME 4O AVOID THE QUEUES BOOK TICKETS IN ADVANCE AT THE TICKET OFlCE AT 6IA #AVOUR OR CALL
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4HE 0ALAZZO -EDICI 2ICCARDI
& , /2% .#% .ORTH OF THE CENTRE THE 3AN ,ORENZO 3AN -ARCO AND !NNUNZIATA DISTRICTS
7ITH YOUR BACK TO THE ENTRANCE DOOR THE TOMB ON THE LEFT BELONGS TO ,ORENZO DUKE OF 5RBINO THE GRANDSON OF ,ORENZO THE -AGNIlCENT -ICHELANGELO DEPICTS HIM AS A MAN OF THOUGHT AND HIS SARCOPHAGUS BEARS lGURES OF $AWN AND $USK THE TIMES OF DAY WHOSE AMBIGUITIES APPEAL TO THE CONTEMPLATIVE MIND /PPOSITE STANDS THE TOMB OF ,ORENZO DE -EDICIS YOUNGEST SON 'IULIANO DUKE OF .EMOURS AS A MAN OF ACTION HIS CHARACTER IS SYMBOLIZED BY THE CLEAR ANTITHESIS OF $AY AND .IGHT ! CONTEMPORARY WRITER RECORDED THAT THE SCULPTOR GAVE HIS SUBJECTS hA GREATNESS A PROPORTION A DIGNITY WHICH SEEMED TO HIM WOULD HAVE BROUGHT THEM MORE PRAISE SAYING THAT A THOUSAND YEARS HENCE NO ONE WOULD BE ABLE TO KNOW THAT THEY WERE OTHERWISEv 4HE PROTAGONISTS WERE VERY MUCH OTHERWISE 'IULIANO WAS IN FACT AN EASYGOING BUT FECKLESS INDIVIDUAL WHILE ,ORENZO COMBINED INEFFECTUALITY WITH UNBEARABLE ARROGANCE "OTH DIED YOUNG AND UNLAMENTED OF TUBERCULOSIS COMBINED IN ,ORENZOS CASE WITH SYPHI LIS 4HE TWO PRINCIPAL EFlGIES WERE INTENDED TO FACE THE EQUALLY GRAND TOMBS OF ,ORENZO DE -EDICI AND HIS BROTHER 'IULIANO TWO -EDICI WHO HAD GENUINE CLAIMS TO FAME 4HE ONLY PART OF THE PROJECT COMPLETED BY -ICHELANGELO IS THE -ADONNA AND #HILD THE LAST IMAGE OF THE -ADONNA HE EVER SCULPTED 4HE lGURES TO EITHER SIDE ARE #OSMAS AND $AMIAN WHICH WERE COMPLETED TO -ICHELANGELOS ORIGINAL DESIGN 7AX AND CLAY MODELS EXIST IN THE #ASA "UONAR ROTI SEE P AND "RITISH -USEUM OF OTHER lGURES -ICHELANGELO PLANNED FOR THE TOMB INCLUDING ALLEGORICAL lGURES OF (EAVEN AND %ARTH AND STATUES OF RIVER GODS REPRESENTING THE 4IBER AND !RNO 3KETCHES RELATING TO THIS SCHEME ARE VIS IBLE BEHIND THE ALTAR VISITORS ARE ALLOWED TO SEE THEM UNDER SUPERVISION EVERY THIRTY MINUTES BUT THE CHAPEL WAS NEVER COMPLETED AS -ICHELANGELO INTENDED IN FOUR YEARS AFTER THE -EDICI HAD RETURNED TO &LORENCE IN THE WRETCHED FORM OF !LESSANDRO -ICHELANGELO DECAMPED TO 2OME WHERE HE STAYED FOR THE REST OF HIS LIFE
4HE 'OZZOLI FRESCOES
4ODAY ALL THAT SURVIVES OF THE INTERIOR OF THE ORIGINAL PALACE IS -ICHELOZZOS DEEP COLONNADED COURTYARD WHICH CLOSELY FOLLOWS THE NEW STYLE ESTABLISHED BY "RUNELLESCHI IN THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL SEE P AND A TINY CHAPEL REACHED BY STAIRS LEADING DIRECTLY FROM THE COURT 4HE WALLS OF THE CHAPEL ARE COVERED
4HE -EDICI BALLS
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\ .ORTH OF THE CENTRE THE 3AN ,ORENZO 3AN -ARCO AND !NNUNZIATA DISTRICTS
9OU COME ACROSS THE -EDICI EMBLEM n A CLUSTER OF RED BALLS PALLE ON A GOLD BACK GROUND n ALL OVER &LORENCE YET ITS ORIGINS ARE SHROUDED IN MYSTERY ,EGEND CLAIMS THE FAMILY WAS DESCENDED FROM A #AROLINGIAN KNIGHT NAMED !VERARDO WHO FOUGHT AND KILLED A GIANT IN THE -UGELLO NORTH OF &LORENCE $URING THE ENCOUNTER HIS SHIELD RECEIVED SIX MASSIVE BLOWS FROM THE GIANTS MACE SO #HARLEMAGNE AS A REWARD FOR HIS BRAVERY ALLOWED !VERARDO TO REPRESENT THE DENTS AS RED BALLS ON HIS COAT OF ARMS 2IVAL FAMILIES CLAIMED THAT THE BALLS HAD LESS EXALTED ORIGINS THAT THEY WERE MEDICI NAL PILLS OR CUPPING GLASSES RECALLING THE FAMILYS ORIGINS AS APOTHECARIES OR DOCTORS MEDICI /THERS CLAIM THEY ARE BEZANTS "YZANTINE COINS INSPIRED BY THE ARMS OF THE !RTE DEL #AMBIO THE MONEY CHANGERS GUILD TO WHICH THE -EDICI BELONGED )N A SIMI LAR VEIN SOME SAY THE BALLS ARE COINS THE TRADITIONAL SYMBOLS OF PAWNBROKERS 7HATEVER THE ORIGIN THE NUMBER OF PALLE WAS NEVER CONSTANT )N THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY FOR EXAMPLE THERE WERE TWELVE "Y #OSIMO DE -EDICIS TIME THE NUMBER HAD DROPPED TO SEVEN THOUGH 3AN ,ORENZOS /LD 3ACRISTY A #OSIMO COMMISSION STRANGELY HAS EIGHT WHILE 6ERROCCHIOS ROUNDEL IN THE SAME CHURCHS CHANCEL HAS SIX AND 'RAND $UKE #OSIMO )S TOMB IN THE #APPELLA DEI 0RINCIPI HAS lVE #OSIMO )L 6ECCHIO WAS SAID TO BE SO FOND OF DISPLAYING THE PALLE ON THE BUILDINGS HE HAD FUNDED THAT A RIVAL ALLEGED THAT EVEN THE MONKS PRIVIES IN 3AN -ARCO WERE ADORNED WITH -EDICI BALLS
BY SOME OF THE CITYS MOST CHARMING FRESCOES "ENOZZO 'OZZOLIS SEQUENCE DEPICTING 4HE *OURNEY OF THE -AGI PAINTED AROUND AND RECENTLY RESTORED TO MAGNIlCENT EFFECT 4HE LANDSCAPE SCENES TO EITHER SIDE OF THE ALTAR ARE BY THE SAME ARTIST $ESPITE THE FRESCOES OSTENSIBLE SUBJECT THE CYCLE PROBABLY PORTRAYS THE PAG EANT OF THE #OMPAGNIA DEI -AGI THE MOST PATRICIAN OF THE CITYS RELIGIOUS CONFRATERNITIES WHOSE ANNUAL PROCESSION TOOK PLACE AT %PIPHANY 3EVERAL OF THE -EDICI INEVITABLY WERE PROMINENT MEMBERS INCLUDING 0IERO DE -EDICI 0IERO IL 'OTTOSO n THE 'OUTY WHO MAY HAVE COMMISSIONED THE PICTURES )TS KNOWN THAT SEVERAL OF THE -EDICI HOUSEHOLD ARE FEATURED IN THE PROCESSION BUT PUTTING NAMES TO THESE PRETTIlED FACES IS A PROBLEM 4HE MAN LEADING THE CAVALCADE ON A WHITE HORSE IS ALMOST CERTAINLY 0IERO WHILE THE lGURE BEHIND HIM IN THE BLACK CLOAK IS PROBABLY HIS FATHER #OSIMO IL 6ECCHIO 0IEROS OLDER SON THE FUTURE ,ORENZO IL -AGNIlCO YEARS OLD AT THE TIME THE FRESCO WAS PAINTED IS PROBABLY THE GOLD CLAD YOUNG KING IN THE FOREGROUND RIDING THE GREY HORSE DETACHED FROM THE REST OF THE PROCESSION WHILE HIS BROTHER 'IULIANO IS PROBABLY THE ONE PRECEDED BY THE BLACK BOWMAN TO THE LEFT OF #OSIMO IL 6ECCHIO 4HE ARTIST HIMSELF IS IN THE CROWD AT THE REAR OF THE PROCESSION HIS RED BERET SIGNED WITH THE WORDS h/PUS "ENOTIIv IN GOLD &INALLY THE BEARDED CHARACTERS AMONG THE THRONG MIGHT BE PORTRAITS OF THE RETINUE OF THE "YZANTINE EMPEROR *OHN 0ALEOLOGUS ))) WHO HAD ATTENDED THE #OUNCIL OF &LORENCE TWENTY YEARS BEFORE THE FRESCO WAS PAINTED 4HE lRST mOOR
!NOTHER SET OF STAIRS LEADS FROM THE PASSAGEWAY BESIDE THE COURTYARD UP TO THE lRST mOOR WHERE A DISPLAY CASE IN THE LOBBY OF THE MAIN GALLERY CONTAINS A -ADONNA AND #HILD BY &ILIPPO ,IPPI ONE OF #OSIMO DE -EDICIS MORE TROU BLESOME PROTÏGÏS #OSIMO SET UP A WORKSHOP FOR HIM IN THE -EDICI PALACE FROM WHICH HE OFTEN ABSENTED HIMSELF TO GO CHASING WOMEN /N ONE OCCASION #OSIMO ACTUALLY LOCKED THE ARTIST IN THE STUDIO BUT &ILIPPO ESCAPED DOWN A ROPE
4HE -ERCATO #ENTRALE IS %UROPES LARGEST COVERED FOOD HALL BUILT IN STONE IRON AND GLASS BY 'IUSEPPE -ENGONI ARCHITECT OF -ILANS FAMOUS 'ALLERIA /PENED IN IT RECEIVED A MAJOR OVERHAUL A CENTURY LATER REOPENING IN WITH A NEW lRST mOOR "UTCHERS ALIMENTARI TRIPE SELLERS GREENGROCERS PASTA STALLS n THEYRE ALL GATHERED UNDER THE ONE ROOF AND ALL CHARGING PRICES LOWER THAN YOULL READILY lND ELSEWHERE IN THE CITY 'ET THERE CLOSE TO THE END OF THE WORK ING DAY AT PM AND YOULL GET SOME GOOD REDUCTIONS %ACH DAY FROM AM TO PM THE STREETS AROUND THE -ERCATO #ENTRALE ARE THRONGED WITH STALLS SELLING BAGS BELTS SHOES TROUSERS n SOME OF IT OF DOUBTFUL QUALITY 4HIS IS THE BUSIEST OF &LORENCES DAILY STREET MARKETS AND A HALF HOURS IMMERSION IN THE HAGGLING MASS OF CUSTOMERS PROVIDES AS GOOD A BREAK AS ANY FROM A PURSUIT OF THE CITYS ART 4HE #ENACOLO DI &OLIGNO
/NE OF &LORENCES MORE OBSCURE CENACOLI ,AST 3UPPERS THE #ENACOLO DI &OLI GNO IS TO BE FOUND A SHORT DISTANCE FROM THE MARKET AT 6IA &AENZA IN THE EX CONVENT OF THE &RANCISCANS OF &OLIGNO -ON 4UES 3AT AMnNOON FREE )T WAS ONCE THOUGHT TO BE BY 2APHAEL BUT IS NOW RECKONED TO HAVE BEEN PAINTED IN THE S BY 0ERUGINO #ERTAINLY IT SHOWS MANY OF 0ERUGINOS STYLISTIC IDI OSYNCRASIES n THE lGURES ARRANGED IN mAT RANKS THEIR GESTURES COMPILED FROM A REPERTOIRE OF POSES THAT CAN BE SEEN IN MANY OF HIS OTHER WORKS
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&ROM THE -ERCATO #ENTRALE TO THE &ORTEZZA DA "ASSO
& , /2% .#% .ORTH OF THE CENTRE THE 3AN ,ORENZO 3AN -ARCO AND !NNUNZIATA DISTRICTS
OF BED SHEETS HAVING CAJOLED HIM INTO RETURNING #OSIMO DECLARED THAT HE WOULD IN FUTURE MANAGE THE PAINTER WITH hAFFECTION AND KINDNESSv A POLICY THAT SEEMS TO HAVE WORKED MORE SUCCESSFULLY 4HE CEILING OF THE GRANDILOQUENT GALLERY GLOWS WITH ,UCA 'IORDANOS FRESCO OF 4HE !POTHEOSIS OF THE -EDICI FROM WHICH ONE CAN ONLY DEDUCE THAT 'IORDANO HAD NO SENSE OF SHAME 0ERHAPS HE HAD NO TIME TO CONSIDER THE COMMISSION n HE WAS KNOWN AS ,UCA &A PRESTO ,UCA $OES )T 1UICKLY !CCOMPANYING #OSIMO ))) ON HIS mIGHT INTO THE ETHER IS HIS SON THE LAST MALE -EDICI 'IAN 'ASTONE D WHO GREW TO BE A MAN SO DISSOLUTE AND INERT THAT HE COULD RARELY SUM MON THE ENERGY TO GET OUT OF BED IN THE MORNING %VEN MORE SUMPTUOUS INTERIOR DECORATION CAN BE SEEN IN THE "IBLIOTECA 2ICCARDIANA -ORENIANA ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE PALACE ENTERED FROM 6IA 'INORI -ONn3AT AMnPM FREE ONE OF THE 2ICCARDIS MORE SUCCESSFUL REMOD ELLINGS )T IS STILL A WORKING LIBRARY BUT BRIEF SILENT VISITS CAN BE MADE TO SEE THE ARRAY OF GILDED EIGHTEENTH CENTURY SHELVES OVERLOOKED BY ,UCA 'IORDANOS ALLEGORY OF )NTELLECT ,IBERATED FROM THE "ONDS OF )GNORANCE
4HE &ORTEZZA DA "ASSO
"EYOND 6IA &AENZA THE &ORTEZZA DA "ASSO WAS BUILT TO INTIMIDATE THE PEOPLE OF &LORENCE BY THE VILE !LESSANDRO DE -EDICI WHO ORDAINED HIMSELF DUKE OF &LORENCE AFTER A TEN MONTH SIEGE BY THE ARMY OF #HARLES 6 AND 0OPE #LEMENT 6)) POSSIBLY !LESSANDROS FATHER HAD FORCIBLY RESTORED THE -EDICI -ICHELANGE LO THE MOST TALENTED &LORENTINE ARCHITECT OF THE DAY HAD PLAYED A MAJOR ROLE IN THE DEFENCE OF THE CITY DURING THE SIEGE THE JOB OF DESIGNING THE FORTRESS FELL TO THE MORE PLIANT !NTONIO DA 3ANGALLO 7ITHIN A FEW YEARS THE CRUELTIES OF !LESSANDRO HAD BECOME INTOLERABLE A PETITION TO #HARLES 6 SPOKE OF THE &ORTEZZA DA "ASSO AS hA PRISON AND A SLAUGH TERHOUSE FOR THE UNHAPPY CITIZENSv #HARLESS RESPONSE TO THE CATALOGUE OF !LES
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\ .ORTH OF THE CENTRE THE 3AN ,ORENZO 3AN -ARCO AND !NNUNZIATA DISTRICTS
SANDROS ATROCITIES WAS TO MARRY HIS DAUGHTER TO THE TYRANT )N THE END ANOTHER -EDICI CAME TO THE RESCUE IN THE DISTANTLY RELATED ,ORENZACCIO DE -EDICI STABBED THE DUKE TO DEATH AS HE WAITED FOR AN AMOROUS ASSIGNATION IN ,ORENZACCIOS HOUSE 4HE REASONS FOR THE MURDER HAVE NEVER BEEN CLEAR BUT IT SEEMS THAT ,ORENZACCIOS MENTAL HEALTH WAS LITTLE BETTER THAN !LESSANDROS IN HIS EARLIER YEARS HE AND !LESSANDRO HAD REGULARLY LAUNCHED LECHEROUS SORTIES ON THE CITYS CONVENTS AND HE HAD BEEN EXPELLED FROM 2OME AFTER LOPPING THE HEADS OFF STATUES ON THE !RCH OF #ONSTANTINE 4HE ASSASSINATION HOWEVER HAD FAVOUR ABLE CONSEQUENCES FOR THE CITY AS !LESSANDRO DIED HEIRLESS THE COUNCIL PROPOSED THAT THE LEADERSHIP OF THE &LORENTINE REPUBLIC SHOULD BE OFFERED TO #OSIMO DE -EDICI THE GREAT GRANDSON OF ,ORENZO IL -AGNIlCO 3UBSEQUENT -EDICI DUKES HAD NO NEED OF A CITIZEN PROOF FORT AND THE &ORTEZZA DA "ASSO FELL INTO DERELIC TION AFTER USE AS A GAOL AND BARRACKS 3INCE THERES BEEN A VAST MODERN SHED IN THE CENTRE OF THE COMPLEX USED FOR TRADE FAIRS AND SHOWS SUCH AS THE 0ITTI -ODA FASHION JAMBOREES IN *ANUARY AND *ULY 4HE PUBLIC GARDENS BY THE WALLS ARE FAIRLY PLEASANT IF YOU WANT AN OPEN AIR SPOT TO RELAX BEFORE CATCHING A TRAIN
4HE !CCADEMIA &LORENCES lRST ACADEMY OF DRAWING THE !CCADEMIA DEL $ISEGNO WAS FOUNDED IN BY "RONZINO !MMANNATI AND 6ASARI )NITIALLY BASED IN 3ANTISSIMA !NNUN ZIATA IT MOVED IN TO 6IA 2ICASOLI AND SOON AFTERWARDS WAS TRANSFORMED INTO A GENERAL ARTS ACADEMY THE !CCADEMIA DI "ELLE !RTI 4WENTY YEARS LATER THE 'RAND $UKE 0IETRO ,EOPOLDO ) FOUNDED THE NEARBY 'ALLERIA DELL!CCADEMIA 4UESn3UN AMnPM + lLLING ITS ROOMS WITH PAINTINGS FOR THE EDIlCATION OF THE STUDENTS ,ATER AUGMENTED WITH PIECES FROM SUPPRESSED RELI GIOUS FOUNDATIONS AND OTHER SOURCES THE !CCADEMIA HAS AN EXTENSIVE COLLEC TION OF PAINTINGS ESPECIALLY OF &LORENTINE WORK OF THE FOURTEENTH AND lFTEENTH CENTURIES 4HE PICTURE GALLERIES WHICH mANK THE MAIN SCULPTURE HALL ARE QUITE SMALL AND GENERALLY UNEXCITING WITH COPIOUS EXAMPLES OF THE WORK OF h5NKNOWN &LORENTINEv AND h&OLLOWER OF v 4HE PIECES LIKELIEST TO MAKE AN IMPACT ARE 0ONTORMOS 6ENUS AND #UPID PAINTED TO A CARTOON BY -ICHELANGELO A -ADONNA OF THE 3EA ATTRIBUTED TO "OTTICELLI AND THE PAINTED lFTEENTH CENTURY !DIMARI #HEST SHOWING A &LORENTINE WEDDING CEREMONY IN THE 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO ! CLUSTER OF ROOMS NEAR THE EXIT HOUSE GILDED RELIGIOUS WORKS FROM THE THIRTEENTH AND FOURTEENTH CENTURIES INCLUDING AN ALTARPIECE OF THE 0ENTECOST BY !NDREA /RCAGNA C -ICHELANGELOS $AVID
#OMMISSIONED BY THE /PERA DEL $UOMO IN THE $AVID WAS CONCEIVED TO INVOKE PARALLELS WITH &LORENCES FREEDOM FROM OUTSIDE DOMINATION DESPITE THE SUPERIOR FORCE OF ITS ENEMIES AND ITS RECENT LIBERATION FROM 3AVONAROLA AND THE -EDICI )TS AN INCOMPARABLE SHOW OF TECHNICAL BRAVURA ALL THE MORE IMPRES SIVE GIVEN THE DIFlCULTIES POSED BY THE MARBLE FROM WHICH IT WAS CARVED 4HE FOUR METRE BLOCK OF STONE n THIN SHALLOW AND RIDDLED WITH CRACKS n HAD BEEN QUARRIED FROM #ARRARA FORTY YEARS EARLIER 3EVERAL ARTISTS HAD ALREADY ATTEMPTED TO WORK WITH IT NOTABLY !GOSTINO DI $UCCIO !NDREA 3ANSOVINO AND ,EONARDO DA 6INCI -ICHELANGELO SUCCEEDED WHERE OTHERS HAD FAILED COMPLETING THE WORK IN WHEN HE WAS STILL JUST &OUR DAYS AND A TEAM OF FORTY MEN WERE THEN REQUIRED TO MOVE THE STATUE FROM THE /PERA DEL $UOMO TO THE SITE THAT WAS EVENTUALLY CHOSEN FOR IT IN THE 0IAZZA
-ICHELANGELO ONCE DESCRIBED THE PROCESS OF CARVING AS BEING THE LIBERATION OF THE FORM FROM WITHIN THE STONE A NOTION THAT SEEMS TO BE EMBODIED BY THE REMARKABLE UNlNISHED 3LAVES OR 0RISONERS (IS PROCEDURE CLEARLY DEMON STRATED HERE WAS TO CUT THE lGURE AS IF IT WERE A DEEP RELIEF AND THEN TO FREE THE THREE DIMENSIONAL lGURE OFTEN HIS ASSISTANTS WOULD PERFORM THE INITIAL OPERA TION WORKING FROM THE MASTERS PENCIL MARKS SO ITS POSSIBLE THAT -ICHELANGELOS OWN CHISEL NEVER ACTUALLY TOUCHED THESE STONES 0ROBABLY CARVED IN THE LATE S THE STATUES WERE ORIGINALLY DESTINED FOR THE TOMB OF *ULIUS )) INTENDED PERHAPS TO SYMBOLIZE THE LIBERAL ARTS LEFT hENSLAVEDv BY *ULIUSS DEMISE 4HE TOMB UNDERWENT INNUMERABLE PERMUTATIONS BEFORE ITS EVENTUAL ABANDONMENT HOWEVER AND IN THE ARTISTS NEPHEW GAVE THE CARV INGS TO THE -EDICI WHO INSTALLED THEM IN THE GROTTO OF THE "ØBOLI GARDEN &OUR OF THE ORIGINAL SIX STATUES CAME TO THE !CCADEMIA IN 4WO OTHERS FOUND THEIR WAY TO THE ,OUVRE IN 0ARIS #LOSE BY IS ANOTHER UNlNISHED WORK 3T -ATTHEW n STARTED SOON AFTER COMPLETION OF THE $AVID AS A COMMISSION FROM THE /PERA DEL $UOMO THEY ACTUALLY REQUESTED A FULL SERIES OF THE !POSTLES FROM -ICHELANGELO BUT THIS IS THE ONLY ONE HE EVER BEGAN )T LANGUISHED HALF FORGOTTEN IN THE CATHEDRAL VAULTS UNTIL
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4HE 3LAVES
& , /2% .#% .ORTH OF THE CENTRE THE 3AN ,ORENZO 3AN -ARCO AND !NNUNZIATA DISTRICTS
DELLA 3IGNORIA ANOTHER THREE WEEKS WERE NEEDED TO RAISE IT ONTO ITS PLINTH $UR ING THE MOVE THE STATUE REQUIRED PROTECTION DAY AND NIGHT TO PREVENT IT BEING STONED BY -EDICI SUPPORTERS ALL TOO AWARE OF ITS SYMBOLISM $AMAGE WAS DONE A FEW YEARS LATER IN WHEN THE -EDICI WERE AGAIN EXPELLED FROM THE CITY A BENCH mUNG FROM A WINDOW OF THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO BY ANTI -EDICI RIOTERS STRUCK AND SMASHED THE LEFT ARM BUT THE PIECES WERE GATHERED UP AND REASSEM BLED 4HE STATUE REMAINED IN ITS OUTDOOR SETTING EXPOSED TO THE ELEMENTS UNTIL IT WAS SENT TO THE !CCADEMIA IN BY WHICH TIME IT HAD LOST ITS GILDED HAIR AND THE GILDED BAND ACROSS ITS CHEST !LSO MISSING THESE DAYS IS A SKIRT OF COPPER LEAVES ADDED TO SPARE THE BLUSHES OF &LORENCES MORE SENSITIVE CITIZENS 4HOROUGHLY CLEANED IN $AVID NOW OCCUPIES A SPECIALLY BUILT ALCOVE PROTECTED BY A GLASS BARRIER THAT WAS ERECTED IN AFTER ONE OF ITS TOES WAS CRACKED BY A HAMMER WIELDING ARTIST 7ITH ITS MASSIVE HEAD AND GANGLING ARMS THE $AVID LOOKS TO SOME PEOPLE LIKE A MONSTROUS ADOLESCENT BUT ITS PROPOR TIONS WOULD NOT HAVE APPEARED SO GRACELESS IN THE SETTING FOR WHICH IT WAS CONCEIVED THE STATUE WAS COMMISIONED AS A PIECE OF MONUMENTAL SCULPTURE FOR THE $UOMO WHERE IT WOULD HAVE BEEN PLACED AT RATHER HIGHER ALTITUDE AND AT A GREATER DISTANCE FROM THE PUBLIC THAN THE POSITION IT OCCUPIES IN THE !CCADEMIAS CHAPEL LIKE SPACE
3AN -ARCO ! WHOLE SIDE OF 0IAZZA 3AN -ARCO IS TAKEN UP BY THE $OMINICAN CONVENT AND CHURCH OF 3AN -ARCO THE FORMER BUILDING NOW THE HOME OF THE -USEO DI 3AN -ARCO 4UESn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM ALSO ST RD TH -ON OF MONTH AMnPM AND ND TH 3UN OF MONTH AMnPM + 4HE $OMINICANS ACQUIRED THE SITE IN AFTER BEING FORCED TO MOVE FROM THEIR FORMER HOME IN &IESOLE AND THE COMPLEX PROMPTLY BECAME THE RECIPI ENT OF #OSIMOS MOST LAVISH PATRONAGE )N THE S HE lNANCED -ICHELOZZOS ENLARGEMENT OF THE CONVENTUAL BUILDINGS n AND WENT ON TO ESTABLISH A VAST LIBRARY HERE !BASHED BY THE WEALTH HE WAS TRANSFERRING TO THEM THE FRIARS OF 3AN -ARCO SUGGESTED TO #OSIMO THAT HE NEED NOT CONTINUE TO SUPPORT THEM
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\ .ORTH OF THE CENTRE THE 3AN ,ORENZO 3AN -ARCO AND !NNUNZIATA DISTRICTS
ON SUCH A SCALE TO WHICH HE REPLIED h.EVER SHALL ) BE ABLE TO GIVE 'OD ENOUGH TO SET HIM DOWN AS MY DEBTORv )RONICALLY THE CONVENT BECAME THE CENTRE OF RESISTANCE TO THE -EDICI LATER IN THE CENTURY 'IROLAMO 3AVONAROLA LEADER OF THE GOVERNMENT OF &LORENCE AFTER THE EXPULSION OF THE -EDICI IN WAS THE PRIOR OF 3AN -ARCO )N $UKE #OSIMO EXPELLED THE $OMINICANS ONCE MORE REMINDING THEM THAT IT WAS ANOTHER #OSIMO WHO HAD ESTABLISHED THE BUILDINGS MAGNIlCENCE IN THE lRST PLACE !S -ICHELOZZO WAS ALTERING AND EXPANDING 3AN -ARCO THE CONVENTS WALLS WERE BEING DECORATED BY ONE OF ITS FRIARS AND A FUTURE PRIOR &RA !NGELICO A 4USCAN PAINTER IN WHOM A MEDIEVAL SIMPLICITY OF FAITH WAS UNIQUELY ALLIED TO A 2ENAISSANCE SOPHISTICATION OF MANNER (E WAS BORN IN 6ICCHIO DI -UGELLO SEE P SON OF A WEALTHY LANDOWNER SOME TIME BETWEEN THE LATE S AND (E ENTERED THE $OMINICAN MONASTERY OF NEARBY &IESOLE AGED AROUND WHERE HE WAS KNOWN AS &RA 'IOVANNI DA &IESOLE !LREADY RECOGNIZED AS AN ACCOMPLISHED ARTIST HE mOURISHED WHEN HE CAME TO 3AN -ARCO (ERE HE WAS ENCOURAGED BY THE THEOLOGIAN !NTONINO 0IEROZZI n THE FUTURE 3T !NTONINE n THE CONVENTS lRST PRIOR AND LATER ARCHBISHOP OF &LORENCE "Y THE TIME &RA 'IOVANNI SUCCEEDED 0IEROZZI AS PRIOR THE PICTURES HE HAD CREATED FOR THE MONASTERY OVER THE COURSE OF A DECADE AND OTHERS FOR NUMEROUS CHURCHES IN &LORENCE AND ELSEWHERE n PRINCIPALLY /RVIETO CATHEDRAL AND THE 6ATICAN
3AVONAROLA 'IROLAMO 3AVONAROLA WAS BORN IN THE SON OF THE PHYSICIAN TO THE &ERRARA COURT (E GREW UP TO BE AN ABSTEMIOUS AND MELANCHOLIC YOUTH SLEEPING ON A BARE STRAW MATTRESS AND SPENDING MUCH OF HIS TIME READING THE "IBLE AND WRITING DIRGES !T THE AGE OF HE ABSCONDED TO A $OMINICAN MONASTERY IN "OLOGNA INFORMING HIS FATHER BY LETTER THAT HE WAS hUNABLE TO ENDURE THE EVIL CONDUCT OF THE HEEDLESS PEOPLE OF )TALYv 7ITHIN A FEW YEARS THE $OMINICANS HAD DISPATCHED HIM TO PREACH ALL OVER NORTHERN )TALY AN ENTERPRISE WHICH GOT OFF TO AN UNPROMISING START .OT THE MOST ATTRACTIVE OF MEN n HE WAS FRAIL WITH A BEAK OF A NOSE AND A BLUBBERY MOUTH n 3AVONAROLA WAS FUR THER HAMPERED BY AN UNINGRATIATING VOICE AND A PARTICULARLY INELEGANT WAY OF GESTUR ING .ONETHELESS THE INTENSITY OF HIS MANNER AND HIS MESSAGE ATTRACTED A COMMITTED FOLLOWING WHEN HE SETTLED PERMANENTLY IN THE MONASTERY OF 3AN -ARCO IN "Y 3AVONAROLAS SERMONS HAD BECOME SO POPULAR THAT HE WAS ASKED TO DELIVER HIS ,ENT ADDRESS IN THE $UOMO 0ROCLAIMING THAT 'OD WAS SPEAKING THROUGH HIM HE BERATED THE CITY FOR ITS DECADENCE FOR ITS PAINTINGS THAT MADE THE 6IRGIN hLOOK LIKE A WHOREv AND FOR THE TYRANNY OF ITS -EDICI LED GOVERNMENT &OLLOWING THE DEATH OF ,ORENZO IL -AGNIlCO THE RHETORIC BECAME EVEN MORE APOCALYPTIC h7AIT NO LONGER FOR THERE MAY BE NO MORE TIME FOR REPENTANCE v HE TOLD THE $UOMO CONGREGATION SUMMONING IMAGES OF PLAGUES INVASIONS AND DESTRUCTION 7HEN #HARLES 6))) OF &RANCE MARCHED INTO )TALY IN 3EPTEMBER TO PRESS HIS CLAIM TO THE THRONE OF .APLES 3AVONAROLA PRESENTED HIM AS THE INSTRUMENT OF 'ODS VENGEANCE 6IOLATING 0IERO DE -EDICIS DECLARATION OF 4USCAN NEUTRALITY THE &RENCH ARMY MASSACRED THE GARRISON AT &IVIZZANO AND &LORENCE PREPARED FOR THE ONSLAUGHT AS 3AVONAROLA DECLAIMED h4HE 3WORD HAS DESCENDED THE SCOURGE HAS FALLENv 7ITH SUPPORT FOR RESISTANCE EBBING 0IERO CAPITULATED TO #HARLES WITHIN DAYS THE -EDICI HAD mED AND THEIR PALACE HAD BEEN PLUNDERED (AILED BY 3AVONAROLA AS hTHE -INISTER OF 'OD THE -INISTER OF *USTICEv #HARLES AND HIS VAST ARMY PASSED PEACEFULLY THROUGH &LORENCE ON THEIR WAY TO 2OME 4HE POLITICAL VACUUM IN &LORENCE WAS lLLED BY THE DECLARATION OF A REPUBLICAN CON STITUTION BUT 3AVONAROLA WAS NOW IN EFFECT THE RULER OF THE CITY #ONTINUAL DECREES WERE ISSUED FROM 3AN -ARCO PROFANE CARNIVALS WERE TO BE OUTLAWED FASTING WAS TO
n HAD EARNED HIM THE TITLE hTHE ANGELIC PAINTERv THE NAME BY WHICH HES BEEN KNOWN EVER SINCE )N HE WAS BEATIlED A HALFWAY HOUSE TO SAINTHOOD THUS FORMALIZING THE NAME BY WHICH HE HAD LONG BEEN KNOWN "EATO !NGELICO OR THE "LESSED !NGELICO
BE OBSERVED MORE FREQUENTLY CHILDREN WERE TO ACT AS THE AGENTS OF THE RIGHTEOUS INFORMING THE AUTHORITIES WHENEVER THEIR PARENTS TRANSGRESSED THE %TERNAL ,AW )RRE LIGIOUS BOOKS AND PAINTINGS EXPENSIVE CLOTHES COSMETICS MIRRORS BOARD GAMES TRIVIALITIES AND LUXURIES OF ALL TYPES WERE DESTROYED A RITUAL PURGING THAT REACHED A CRESCENDO WITH A COLOSSAL h"ONlRE OF THE 6ANITIESv ON THE 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA -EANWHILE #HARLES 6))) WAS INSTALLED IN .APLES AND A FORMIDABLE ALLIANCE WAS BEING ASSEMBLED TO OVERTHROW HIM THE PAPACY -ILAN 6ENICE &ERDINAND OF !RAGON AND THE EMPEROR -AXIMILIAN )N *ULY THE ARMY OF THIS (OLY ,EAGUE CONFRONTED THE &RENCH AND WAS BADLY DEFEATED #HARLESS ARMY CONTINUED NORTHWARDS BACK TO &RANCE AND 3AVONAROLA WAS SUMMONED TO THE 6ATICAN TO EXPLAIN WHY HE HAD BEEN UNABLE TO JOIN THE CAMPAIGN AGAINST THE INTRUDER (E DECLINED TO ATTEND CLAIMING THAT IT WAS NOT 'ODS WILL THAT HE SHOULD MAKE THE JOURNEY AND THUS SET OFF A CHAIN OF EXCHANGES THAT ENDED WITH HIS EXCOMMUNICATION IN *UNE $EFYING 0OPE !LEXANDERS ORDER 3AVONAROLA CELEBRATED -ASS IN THE $UOMO ON #HRISTMAS $AY WHICH PROMPTED A lNAL THREAT FROM 2OME SEND 3AVONAROLA TO THE 6ATICAN OR IMPRISON HIM IN &LORENCE OTHERWISE THE WHOLE CITY WOULD JOIN HIM IN EXCOMMUNICATION $ESPITE 3AVONAROLAS INSISTENCE THAT THE "ORGIA POPE WAS ALREADY CONSIGNED TO HELL THE PEOPLE OF &LORENCE BEGAN TO DESERT HIM 4HE REGIONS CROPS HAD FAILED PLAGUE HAD BROKEN OUT AGAIN AND THE CITY WAS AT WAR WITH 0ISA WHICH #HARLES HAD HANDED OVER TO ITS CITIZENS RATHER THAN RETURN TO &LORENCES CONTROL AS HE HAD PROMISED 4HE &RANCISCANS OF &LORENCE SCEPTICAL OF THE $OMINICAN MONKS CLAIM TO DIVINE APPROVAL NOW ISSUED A TERRIBLE CHALLENGE /NE OF THEIR COMMUNITY AND ONE OF 3AVONAROLAS WOULD WALK THROUGH AN AVENUE OF lRE IN THE 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA IF THE $OMINICAN DIED THEN 3AVONAROLA WOULD BE BANISHED IF THE &RANCISCAN DIED THEN 3AVONAROLAS MAIN CRITIC &RA &RANCESCO DA 0UGLIA WOULD BE EXPELLED ! THUNDERSTORM PREVENTED THE TRIAL FROM TAKING PLACE BUT THE MOOD IN THE CITY HAD ANYWAY TURNED IRREVOCABLY 4HE FOLLOWING DAY 0ALM 3UNDAY A SIEGE OF THE MONASTERY OF 3AN -ARCO ENDED WITH 3AVONAROLAS ARREST !CCUSED OF HERESY HE WAS TORTURED TO THE POINT OF DEATH THEN BURNED AT THE STAKE IN FRONT OF THE 0ALAZZO 6EC CHIO WITH TWO OF HIS SUPPORTERS 7HEN THE mAMES HAD lNALLY BEEN EXTINGUISHED THE ASHES WERE THROWN INTO THE RIVER TO PREVENT ANYONE FROM GATHERING THEM AS RELICS
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)MMEDIATELY BEYOND THE ENTRANCE LIES THE #HIOSTRO DI 3ANT!NTONINO DESIGNED BY -ICHELOZZO AND NOW DOMINATED BY A VAST CEDAR OF ,EBANON -OST OF THE CLOISTERS FADED FRESCOES ARE SIXTEENTH CENTURY DEPICTIONS OF EPISODES FROM THE LIFE OF !NTONINO 0IEROZZI !NGELICOS MENTOR AND THE CONVENTS lRST PRIOR !NGELICO HIMSELF PAINTED THE FRESCOES IN ITS FOUR CORNERS OF WHICH THE MOST STRIKING IS THE LUNETTE OF 3T $OMINIC AT THE &OOT OF THE #ROSS 4HIS WEATHER BLEACHED WORK PALES ALONGSIDE THE TWENTY OR SO PAINTINGS BY THE ARTIST GATHERED IN THE /SPIZIO DEI 0ELLEGRINI OR 0ILGRIMS (OSPICE WHICH LIES BETWEEN THE CLOISTER AND THE PIAZZA -ANY OF THE WORKS n INCLUD ING SEVERAL OF !NGELICOS MOST FAMOUS n WERE BROUGHT HERE FROM CHURCHES AND GALLERIES AROUND &LORENCE ALL DISPLAY THE ARTISTS BRILLIANT COLOURING AND SPATIAL CLARITY AND AN AIR OF IMPERTURBABLE PIETY /N THE RIGHT WALL AS YOU ENTER IS A $EPOSITION n ORIGINALLY HUNG IN THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA 4RÖNITA
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#OMMISSIONED BY THE 3TROZZI FAMILY THE PAINTING WAS BEGUN BY ,ORENZO ,"1 Ê "", -ONACO WHO DIED AFTER COMPLETING THE UPPER TRIO OF TRIANGULAR PINNA CLES AND CONTINUED BY &RA !NGELICO !T THE OPPOSITE END OF THE ROOM HANGS THE -ADONNA DEI ,INAIUOLI !NGELICOS lRST MAJOR PUBLIC PAINTING COMMISSIONED BY THE LINAIUOLI OR mAX WORKERS GUILD FOR THEIR HEAD QUARTERS (ALFWAY DOWN THE ROOM ON THE INNER WALL THE SO CALLED 0ALA DI 3AN -ARCO THOUGH BADLY DAMAGED BY THE PASSAGE OF TIME AND £x A DISASTROUS RESTORATION DEMONSTRATES &RA !NGELICOS FAMILIARITY WITH THE LATEST DEVELOPMENTS IN ARTISTIC THEORY )TS lGURES ARE ARRANGED IN LINES THAT TAPER TOWARDS A CENTRAL VANISHING £{ POINT IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE PRINCI PLES LAID OUT IN !LBERTIS $ELLA 0ITTURA £Î /N 0AINTING PUBLISHED IN )TALIAN £ä £Ó JUST TWO YEARS BEFORE THE PICTURE WAS EXECUTED 4HE WORK WAS COMMIS ££ Î SIONED BY THE -EDICI AS AN ALTARPIECE Ç FOR THE CHURCH OF 3AN -ARCO HENCE THE PRESENCE OF THE FAMILYS PATRON SAINTS #OSMAS AND $AMIAN WHO Ó CAN BE SEEN AT WORK AS DOCTORS IN THE SMALL PANEL IMMEDIATELY TO THE n RIGHT "ACK IN THE CLOISTER A DOORWAY IN ITS TOP RIGHT HAND CORNER OPENS INTO THE 3ALA DEL ,AVABO WHERE { x È THE MONKS WASHED BEFORE EATING )TS £ ENTRANCE WALL HAS A #RUCIlXION WITH £ ÕÃiÕÊiÌÀ>Vi n ,iviÌÌÀÊÀ>`i 3AINTS BY !NGELICO AND ITS RIGHT WALL Ó
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A SYMBOL OF ANTI -EDICI SENTIMENT EVER AFTER (ERE TOO IS A POWERFUL FRESCO OF THE #RUCIlXION PAINTED BY !NGELICO AND ASSISTANTS IN !T THE REAR OF THIS ROOM ENTERED VIA A PASSAGEWAY ALONGSIDE THE #HAPTER (OUSE LIES THE 2EFETTORIO 0IC COLO OR 3MALL 2EFECTORY WITH A LUSTROUS ,AST 3UPPER BY 'HIRLANDAIO 4HIS FORMS AN ANTEROOM TO THE &ORESTERIA HOME TO THE CONVENTS FORMER GUEST ROOMS WHICH IS CLUTTERED WITH ARCHITECTURAL BITS AND PIECES SALVAGED DURING NINE TEENTH CENTURY URBAN IMPROVEMENT SCHEMES
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3TAIRS OFF THE CLOISTER BY THE ENTRANCE TO THE &ORESTERIA LEAD UP TO THE lRST mOOR WHERE ALMOST IMMEDI ATELY YOURE CONFRONTED WITH ONE OF THE MOST SUBLIME PAINTINGS IN )TALY &OR THE DRAMA OF ITS SETTING AND THE LUCIDITY OF ITS COMPOSITION NOTHING IN 3AN -ARCO MATCHES !NGELICOS !NNUNCIATION ! 4HE PALLID SUB MISSIVE 6IRGIN IS ONE OF THE MOST TOUCHING IMAGES IN 2ENAISSANCE ART AND THE COURTEOUS ANGEL WITH HIS SCINTILLATING UNFURLED WINGS IS AS CONVINCING A HEAVENLY MESSENGER AS ANY EVER PAINTED !N INSCRIPTION ON THIS FRESCO REMINDS THE PASSING MONKS TO SAY A (AIL -ARY AS THEY VENERATE THE IMAGE !NGELICO AND HIS ASSISTANTS ALSO PAINTED THE SIMPLE AND PIOUSLY RESTRAINED PICTURES IN EACH OF THE DORMITORY CELLS ON THIS mOOR INTO WHICH THE BROTHERS WOULD WITHDRAW FOR SOLITARY CONTEMPLATION AND SLEEP 4HE OUTER CELLS OF THE CORRIDOR ON THE LEFT n ALMOST ALL HAVE WORKS BY !NGELICO HIMSELF n DONT MISS THE .OLI -E 4ANGERE THE !NNUNCIATION THE OUTSTANDING 4RANSlGURATION AND THE #ORONATION OF THE 6IRGIN 4HE MARVELLOUS -ADONNA DELLE /MBRE " OR -ADONNA OF THE 3HADOWS ON THE WALL FACING THESE CELLS IS PROBABLY ALSO BY !NGELICO 3EVERAL OF THE SCENES INCLUDE ONE OR
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BOTH OF A PAIR OF MONASTIC ONLOOKERS SERVING AS INTERMEDIARIES BETWEEN THE OCCUPANT OF THE CELL AND THE PERSONAGES IN THE PICTURES THE ONE WITH THE STAR ABOVE HIS HEAD IS 3T $OMINIC THE ONE WITH THE SPLIT SKULL IS 3T 0ETER -ARTYR SEE P !T THE END OF THE FAR CORRIDOR IS A KNOT OF ROOMS n ONCE OCCUPIED BY 3AVONAROLA 4HESE NOW CONTAIN VARIOUS RELICS n A BELT A CAPE A TORN VEST n QUES TIONABLY AUTHENTICATED AS WORN BY THE MAN HIMSELF MOST DUBIOUS OF ALL IS THE PIECE OF WOOD FROM HIS FUNERAL PYRE WHICH IS DEPICTED IN A COUPLE OF PAINTINGS HERE )F YOU TURN RIGHT AT THE MAIN !NNUNCIATION AND CONTINUE TO THE END OF THE CORRIDOR YOULL COME TO THE CELLS THAT WERE THE PERSONAL DOMAIN OF #OSIMO DE -EDICI 4HE FRESCO OF THE !DORATION OF THE -AGI MAY WELL BE THE WORK OF !NGELICOS STAR PUPIL "ENOZZO 'OZZOLI )TS SUBJECT MAY HAVE BEEN SUGGESTED BY #OSIMO HIMSELF WHO LIKED TO THINK OF HIMSELF AS A LATTER DAY WISE MAN OR AT LEAST AS A GIFT GIVING KING /N THE WAY TO THESE 6)0 CELLS YOULL PASS THE ENTRANCE TO -ICHELOZZOS ,IBRARY # BUILT IN n TO A DESIGN THAT EXUDES AN ATMOSPHERE OF CALM STUDY THOUGH n AS THE PLAQUE BY THE DOORWAY TELLS YOU n IT WAS HERE THAT 3AVON AROLA WAS lNALLY CORNERED AND ARRESTED IN #OSIMOS AGENTS ROAMED AS FAR AS THE .EAR %AST GARNERING PRECIOUS MANUSCRIPTS AND BOOKS IN TURN #OSIMO HANDED ALL THE RELIGIOUS ITEMS OVER TO THE MONASTERY STIPULATING THAT THEY SHOULD BE ACCESSIBLE TO ALL MAKING IT %UROPES lRST PUBLIC LIBRARY !T THE FAR END A DOOR LEADS THROUGH TO THE 3ALA 'RECA $ USUALLY OPEN FOR GUIDED VISITS ON THE HOUR WHICH WAS ADDED TO HOUSE A GROWING COLLECTION OF 'REEK CODICES 3AN -ARCO CHURCH
'REATLY ALTERED SINCE -ICHELOZZOS INTERVENTION THE CHURCH OF 3AN -ARCO -ONn3AT AMnNOON nPM IS WORTH A QUICK CALL FOR TWO WORKS ON THE SECOND AND THIRD ALTARS ON THE RIGHT A -ADONNA AND 3AINTS PAINTED IN BY &RA "ARTOLOMEO AND AN EIGHTH CENTURY MOSAIC OF 4HE -ADONNA IN 0RAYER SURROUNDED BY LATER ADDITIONS BROUGHT HERE FROM THE #ONSTANTINE BASILICA IN 2OME 4HIS HAD TO BE CUT IN HALF IN TRANSIT AND YOU CAN STILL SEE THE BREAK ACROSS THE 6IRGINS MIDRIFF
7EST AND NORTH OF 0IAZZA 3AN -ARCO 7ITHIN A COUPLE OF MINUTES STROLL WEST AND NORTH OF 0IAZZA 3AN -ARCO ARE TWO LITTLE VISITED ART ATTRACTIONS ONE OF THE CITYS OBSCURER PARKS AND A CLUSTER OF SPECIALIST MUSEUMS .ONE WOULD FEATURE IN A RUSHED ITINERARY BUT THE lRST PAIR IN PARTICULAR ARE WORTH THE DIVERSION ON ANY HIGH CULTURE POINT TO POINT 4HE #ENACOLO DI 3ANT!POLLONIA
2UNNING OFF THE WEST SIDE OF 0IAZZA 3AN -ARCO 6IA DEGLI !RAZZIERI SOON BECOMES 6IA 886)) !PRILE WHERE THE FORMER "ENEDICTINE CONVENT OF 3ANT!POLLONIA STANDS AT NO 4UESn3AT AMnPM ND TH 3UN OF MONTH AND ST RD TH -ON OF MONTH SAME HOURS FREE -OST OF THE COMPLEX HAS NOW BEEN TURNED INTO APARTMENTS BUT ONE ENTIRE WALL OF THE FORMER REFECTORY HOUSES !NDREA DEL #ASTAGNOS ,AST 3UPPER ONE OF THE MOST DISTURBING VERSIONS OF THE EVENT PAINTED IN THE 2ENAISSANCE "LOOD RED IS THE DOMINANT TONE AND THE MOST COMMANDING lGURE IS THE DIABOLIC BLACK BEARDED *UDAS WHO SITS ON THE NEAR SIDE OF THE TABLE 4HE SEETHING PATTERNS IN THE MARBLED PANELS BEHIND THE !POSTLES SEEM TO MIMIC THE TURMOIL IN THE MIND OF EACH AS HE HEARS #HRISTS ANNOUNCEMENT OF THE BETRAYAL
4HE #HIOSTRO DELLO 3CALZO
4HE 'IARDINO DEI 3EMPLICI OR /RTO "OTANICO !PRILn/CT 4UES AMnPM nPM 7EDn&RI AMnPM .OVn-ARCH -ONn&RI AMnPM + NORTHEAST OF 3AN -ARCO WAS SET UP IN FOR #OSIMO ) AS A MEDICINAL GARDEN FOLLOWING THE EXAMPLES OF 0ADUA AND 0ISA %NTERED FROM 6IA ,A 0IRA IT NOW COVERS lVE ACRES MOST OF THE AREA BEING TAKEN UP BY THE ORIGINAL mOWERBEDS AND AVENUES )TS THE NEAREST EQUIVALENT TO THE "ØBOLI GARDEN ON THE NORTH SIDE OF THE CITY BUT UNFORTUNATELY IT CLOSES AT EXACTLY THE TIME YOU COULD USE IT FOR A MIDDAY BREAK 4HE GARDEN ENTRANCE AT 6IA -ICHELI ALSO GIVES ACCESS TO A NUMBER OF MUSE UMS ADMINISTERED BY THE UNIVERSITY 4HE -USEO "OTANICO CURRENTLY OPEN ONLY TO SCHOLARS SET UP FOR ,EOPOLDO )) OF ,ORRAINE CONTAINS OVER FOUR MILLION BOTANICAL SPECIMENS SUPPLEMENTED BY PLASTER MUSHROOMS AND WAX MODELS OF PLANTS -ASSES OF ROCKS ARE ON SHOW IN THE -USEO DI -INERO LOGIA E ,ITOLOGIA *UNEn3EPT 7ED &RI AMnPM /CTn-AY 4UES AMnPM nPM 7EDn3AT AMnPM + JOINT TICKET WITH THE NEXT MUSEUM INCLUD ING A KILO TOPAZ FROM "RAZIL AND A LOAD OF WORKED STONES FROM THE -EDICI COLLECTION n SNUFF BOXES LITTLE VASES A QUARTZ BOAT 4HE -USEO DI 'EOLOGIA E 0ALEONTOLOGIA SAME HOURS AND TICKET AS ABOVE IS ONE OF )TALYS BIGGEST FOSSIL SHOWS FEATURING SUCH DELIGHTS AS PREHISTORIC ELEPHANT SKELETONS FROM THE UPPER 6ALDARNO AND A SKELETON FROM 'ROSSETO ONCE TOUTED AS THE MISSING LINK BETWEEN MONKEYS AND (OMO SAPIENS
0IAZZA 3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATA .INETEENTH CENTURY URBAN RENEWAL SCHEMES SPOILED MANY OF THE SQUARES OF CENTRAL &LORENCE WHICH MAKES THE PEDESTRIANIZED 0IAZZA 3ANTISSIMA !NNUN ZIATA WITH ITS DISTINCTIVE ARCADES ALL THE MORE ATTRACTIVE A PUBLIC SPACE )T HAS A SPECIAL IMPORTANCE FOR THE CITY TOO 5NTIL THE END OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY THE &LORENTINE YEAR USED TO BEGIN ON -ARCH THE &ESTIVAL OF THE !NNUNCIATION n HENCE THE &LORENTINE PREDILECTION FOR PAINTINGS OF THE !NNUNCIATION AND THE FASHIONABLENESS OF THE !NNUNZIATA CHURCH WHICH HAS LONG BEEN THE PLACE FOR SOCIETY WEDDINGS 4HE FESTIVAL IS STILL MARKED BY A HUGE FAIR IN THE PIAZZA AND THE STREETS LEADING OFF IT LATER IN THE YEAR ON THE lRST WEEKEND IN 3EPTEMBER THE SQUARE IS USED FOR 4USCANYS LARGEST CRAFTS FAIR "RUNELLESCHI BEGAN THE PIAZZA IN THE S WITH ADDITIONS MADE LATER BY !MMANNATI AND !NTONIO DA 3ANGALLO 4HE EQUESTRIAN STATUE OF 'RAND $UKE &ERDINAND ) AT ITS CENTRE WAS 'IAMBOLOGNAS lNAL WORK AND WAS CAST BY HIS PUPIL 0IETRO 4ACCA FROM CANNONS CAPTURED AT THE "ATTLE OF ,EPANTO 4ACCA WAS
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4HE 'IARDINO DEI 3EMPLICI AND NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUMS
& , /2% .#% .ORTH OF THE CENTRE THE 3AN ,ORENZO 3AN -ARCO AND !NNUNZIATA DISTRICTS
4O THE NORTH OF 3AN -ARCO AT 6IA #AVOUR IS ,O 3CALZO THE HOME OF THE "ROTHERHOOD OF 3T *OHN WHOSE VOWS OF POVERTY ENTAILED WALKING AROUND BAREFOOT SCALZO 4HE ORDER WAS SUPPRESSED IN AND THEIR MONASTERY SOLD OFF EXCEPT FOR THE CLOISTER -ON 4HURS 3AT AMnPM FREE 4HIS WAS THE TRAINING GROUND FOR !NDREA DEL 3ARTO AN ARTIST VENERATED IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY AS A PAINTER WITH NO IMPERFECTIONS BUT NOW REGARDED WITH SLIGHTLY LESS ENTHUSIASM ON ACCOUNT OF THIS VERY SMOOTHNESS (IS MONOCHROME PAINTINGS OF THE #ARDINAL 6IRTUES AND 3CENES FROM THE ,IFE OF THE "APTIST OCCUPIED HIM OFF AND ON FOR A DECADE FROM BEGINNING WITH THE "APTISM lNISHING WITH THE "IRTH OF 3T *OHN ! COUPLE OF THE SIXTEEN SCENES n *OHN IN THE 7ILDERNESS AND *OHN MEETING #HRIST n WERE EXECUTED BY HIS PUPIL &RANCIABIGIO IN WHEN DEL 3ARTO WAS AWAY IN 0ARIS
ALSO THE CREATOR OF THE GROTESQUE FOUNTAINS ON EACH OF WHICH A PAIR OF AQUATIC MONKEYS SPIT WATER AT TWO WHISKERED SEA SLUGS & , /2% .#%
4HE 3PEDALE DEGLI )NNOCENTI
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0IAZZA 3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATAS TONE IS SET BY THE 3PEDALE DEGLI )NNOCENTI OR /SPEDALE -ON 4UES 4HURSn3UN AMn PM + #OMMISSIONED IN BY THE !RTE DELLA 3ETA THE SILK WEAVERS GUILD IT OPENED IN AS THE lRST FOUNDLINGS HOSPITAL IN %UROPE AND IS STILL AN ORPHANAGE TODAY )T WAS LARGELY DESIGNED BY "RUNELLESCHI WHOSE ACTIVITY AS A GOLDSMITH STRANGELY ALLOWED HIM MEMBERSHIP OF THE GUILD AND HIS NINE ARCHED LOG GIA WAS ONE OF %UROPES EARLIEST EXAMPLES OF THE NEW CLASSICALLY INmUENCED STYLE !NDREA DELLA 2OBBIAS BLUE BACKED CERAMIC TONDI OF 5 'RAND $UKE &ERDINAND ) 0IAZZA 33 !NNUNZIATA WELL SWADDLED BABIES ADVERTISE THE BUILDINGS FUNCTION BUT THEIR GAIETY BELIES THE MISERY ASSOCIATED WITH IT 3LAVERY WAS PART OF THE &LORENTINE ECONOMY AS LATE AS THE lFTEENTH CENTURY ITS PROBABLE THAT ,EONARDO DA 6INCIS MOTHER WAS A SLAVE AND MANY OF THE INFANTS GIVEN OVER TO THE CARE OF THE )NNO CENTI WERE BORN TO DOMESTIC SLAVES &ROM CHILDREN COULD BE ABANDONED ANONYMOUSLY IN THE ROTA A SMALL REVOLVING DOOR WHOSE BRICKED UP REMAINS ARE STILL VISIBLE AT THE EXTREME LEFT OF THE FACADE IT REMAINED IN USE UNTIL 4HE BUILDING WITHIN CENTRES ON TWO BEAUTIFUL CLOISTERS "RUNELLESCHIS CENTRAL #HIOSTRO DEGLI 5OMINI -ENS #LOISTER AND THE NARROW GRACEFUL #HIOSTRO DELLE $ONNE 7OMENS #LOISTER TO THE RIGHT 3TAIRS FROM THE LEFT HAND CORNER OF THE FORMER LEAD UP TO THE MUSEUM A MISCELLANY OF &LORENTINE 2ENAISSANCE ART THAT INCLUDES ONE OF ,UCA DELLA 2OBBIAS MOST BEGUILING -ADONNAS AND AN !DORATION OF THE -AGI BY $OMENICO 'HIRLANDAIO 4HE LATTER COMMIS SIONED AS THE ALTARPIECE OF THE BUILDINGS CHURCH FEATURES A BACKGROUND DEPICT ING THE -ASSACRE OF THE )NNOCENTS 4HE PARALLEL OF THE SLAUGHTER OF "ETHLEHEMS lRST BORN WITH THE ORPHANAGES FOUNDLINGS OR INNOCENTI WAS DELIBERATELY MADE 3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATA
3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATA DAILY AMnPM nPM IS THE MOTHER CHURCH OF THE 3ERVITES OR 3ERVI DI -ARIA 3ERVANTS OF -ARY A RELIGIOUS ORDER FOUNDED BY &ILIPPO "ENIZZI AND SIX &LORENTINE ARISTOCRATS IN &ROM HUM BLE BEGINNINGS THE ORDER BLOSSOMED AFTER WHEN A PAINTING OF THE 6IRGIN BEGUN BY ONE OF THE MONKS n ABANDONED IN DESPAIR BECAUSE OF HIS INABILITY TO CREATE A TRULY BEAUTIFUL IMAGE n WAS COMPLETED BY AN ANGEL WHILE HE SLEPT 3O MANY PEOPLE CAME TO VENERATE THE IMAGE THAT BY A NEW CHURCH lNANCED
BY THE -EDICI WAS COMMISSIONED FROM -ICHELOZZO WHO HAPPENED TO BE THE BROTHER OF THE 3ERVITES HEAD PRIOR 4HE PROJECT COMPLETED BY ,EON "ATTISTA !LBERTI IN INVOLVED LAYING OUT THE PRESENT DAY 6IA DEI 3ERVI DESIGNED TO LINK 3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATA AND THE CATHEDRAL THUS UNITING THE CITYS TWO MOST IMPORTANT CHURCHES DEDICATED TO THE -ADONNA
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!S THE NUMBER OF PILGRIMS TO THE CHURCH INCREASED SO IT BECAME A CUSTOM TO LEAVE WAX VOTIVE OFFERINGS VOTI IN HONOUR OF ITS MIRACULOUS -ADONNA )N THE EARLY DAYS THESE WERE PLACED AROUND THE WALLS ,ATER THEY WERE HUNG FROM THE NAVE CEILING %VENTUALLY THEY BECAME SO NUMEROUS THAT IN A SPECIAL ATRIUM THE #HIOSTRINO DEI 6OTI WAS BUILT ONTO THE CHURCH )N TIME THIS CAME TO HOUSE SOME SIX HUNDRED STATUES SOME OF THEM LIFE SIZED DEPICTIONS OF THE DONOR WITH FULL SIZE WAX HORSE IN CLOSE ATTENDANCE 4HE COLLECTION WAS ONE OF THE CITYS GREAT TOURIST ATTRACTIONS UNTIL WHEN THE WHOLE LOT WAS MELTED DOWN TO MAKE CANDLES -ORE LASTING ALTERATIONS TO THE CLOISTERS APPEARANCE IN THE SHAPE OF A MAJOR FRESCO CYCLE WERE MADE IN THE S FOLLOWING THE CANONIZATION OF &ILIPPO "ENIZZI THE 3ERVITES FOUNDING FATHER 4HREE LEADING ARTISTS OF THE DAY !NDREA DEL 3ARTO *ACOPO 0ONTORMO AND 2OSSO &IORENTINO WERE INVOLVED TOGETHER WITH SEV ERAL LESSER PAINTERS 3OME OF THE PANELS ARE IN A POOR STATE n ALL WERE REMOVED FROM THE WALLS AND RESTORED AFTER THE mOOD n BUT THEIR OVERALL EFFECT IS SUPERB 4HERE ARE TWO SEQUENCES HERE ONE DEPICTING SCENES FROM THE ,IFE OF THE 6IRGIN AN OBVIOUS THEME GIVEN THE CHURCHS -ARIAN DEDICATION THE OTHER PORTRAYING SCENES FROM THE ,IFE OF 3T &ILIPPO "ENIZZI )F YOU START TO THE RIGHT OF THE ENTRANCE TO THE CLOISTER THE SEQUENCE WORKS BACKWARDS FROM THE 6IRGINS DEATH BEGINNING WITH AN !SSUMPTION BY 2OSSO &IORENTINO ONE OF HIS lRST WORKS PAINTED WHEN HE WAS AGED AROUND !LONGSIDE LIES 0ONTORMOS 6ISITATION WHICH WAS SAID TO HAVE TAKEN SOME EIGHTEEN MONTHS TO PAINT )TS FOLLOWED BY &RANCIABIGIOS -ARRIAGE OF THE 6IRGIN IN WHICH THE PAINTER IS SAID TO HAVE TAKEN A HAMMER TO THE 6IRGINS FACE APPARENTLY HE WAS ANGRY AT THE MONKS FOR HAVING SECRETLY LOOKED AT THE WORK BEFORE ITS COMPLETION AND AFTER THE ARTISTS TANTRUM NO ONE HAD THE COURAGE TO REPAIR THE DAMAGE "EFORE THE NEXT LUNETTE COMES A lNE MARBLE BAS RELIEF OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD ATTRIBUTED TO -ICHELOZZO FOLLOWED BY THE CLOISTERS MASTERPIECE !ND REA DEL 3ARTOS "IRTH OF THE 6IRGIN 4O THE RIGHT OF THE LARGE CHURCH DOOR IS THE SAME ARTISTS *OURNEY OF THE -AGI WHICH INCLUDES A SELF PORTRAIT IN THE RIGHT HAND CORNER ,EFT OF THE DOOR LIES !LESSO "ALDOVINETTIS .ATIVITY ITS FADED APPEARANCE THE RESULT OF POOR INITIAL PREPARATION ON THE PART OF THE ARTIST 4HE SEQUENCE DEVOTED TO &ILIPPO "ENIZZI BEGINS ON THE NEXT WALL WITH #OSIMO 2OS SELLIS 6OCATION AND )NVESTITURE OF THE 3AINT THE lVE REMAINING DAMAGED PANELS ARE ALL THE WORK OF !NDREA DEL 3ARTO
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4HE #HIOSTRINO DEI 6OTI
4HE INTERIOR
&EW &LORENTINE INTERIORS ARE AS STRIKING AT lRST SIGHT AS 3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATA BUT IN ORDER TO BE SURE OF SEEING IT YOU SHOULD VISIT IN THE AFTERNOON THIS CHURCH COMMANDS THE DEVOTION OF A LARGE CONGREGATION AND THERE ARE -ASSES EVERY HOUR ALL MORNING "EYOND THE STARTLING lRST IMPRESSION MADE BY THE GILT AND STUCCO GLOSS THAT WAS APPLIED IN THE SEVENTEENTH AND EIGHTEENTH CENTU RIES THE CHURCH CONTAINS FEW GENUINE TREASURES /NE NOTABLE EXCEPTION IS THE ORNATE TABERNACLE n IMMEDIATELY ON YOUR LEFT AS YOU ENTER DESIGNED BY -ICHELOZZO TO HOUSE THE MIRACULOUS IMAGE OF THE -ADONNA -ICHELOZZOS PATRON 0IERO DI #OSIMO DE -EDICI MADE SURE THAT NOBODY REMAINED UNAWARE
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OF THE MONEY HE SANK INTO THE SHRINE AN INSCRIPTION READS #OSTÛ lOR MILA EL MARMO SOLO h4HE MARBLE ALONE COST mORINSv 4HE PAINTING ENCASED IN THE MARBLE HAS BEEN REPAINTED INTO ILLEGIBILITY AND IS USUALLY KEPT COVERED ANYWAY 4O THE TABERNACLES RIGHT LIES A CHAPEL n ORIGINALLY CREATED AS AN ORA TORY FOR THE -EDICI ADORNED WITH lVE PANELS OF INLAID STONE DEPICTING THE 6IRGINS PRINCIPAL SYMBOLS SUN MOON STAR LILY AND ROSE AND A SMALL PICTURE OF THE 2EDEEMER BY !NDREA DEL 3ARTO 0IERO DE -EDICI LOANED OUT THE SPACE TO VISITING DIGNITARIES TO ALLOW THEM A PRIVILEGED VIEW OF THE -ADONNA 4HE #APPELLA &ERONI NEXT DOOR FEATURES A RESTRAINED FRESCO BY !NDREA DEL #ASTAGNO OF #HRIST AND 3T *ULIAN n 4HE ADJACENT CHAPEL CONTAINS A MORE STRIKING FRESCO BY THE SAME ARTIST THE (OLY 4RINITY AND 3T *EROME .OW RESTORED BOTH FRESCOES WERE OBLITERATED AFTER 6ASARI SPREAD THE RUMOUR THAT #ASTAGNO HAD POISONED HIS ERSTWHILE FRIEND $OMENICO 6ENEZIANO MOTIVATED BY ENVY OF THE OTHERS SKILL WITH OIL PAINT #ASTAGNO WAS SADDLED WITH THIS CRIME UNTIL THE NINETEENTH CENTURY WHEN AN ARCHIVIST DISCOVERED THAT THE ALLEGED MUR DERER IN FACT PREDECEASED HIS VICTIM BY FOUR YEARS 3EPARATED FROM THE NAVE BY A TRIUMPHAL ARCH IS THE UNUSUAL TRIBUNE BEGUN BY -ICHELOZZO BUT COMPLETED TO DESIGNS BY !LBERTI YOU GET INTO IT ALONG A CORRIDOR FROM THE NORTH TRANSEPT 4HE CHAPEL AT THE FARTHEST POINT WAS ALTERED BY 'IAMBOLOGNA INTO A MONUMENT TO HIMSELF COMPLETE WITH BRONZE RELIEFS AND A CRUCIlX BY THE SCULPTOR 4HE CHAPEL TO ITS LEFT CONTAINS A SIZEABLE 2ESURRECTION BY "RONZINO 4HE SPACIOUS #HIOSTRO DEI -ORTI IS WORTH VISITING FOR !NDREA DEL 3ARTOS INTIMATE -ADONNA DEL 3ACCO OVER THE DOOR THAT OPENS FROM THE NORTH TRANSEPT IF YOU CANT lND THE SACRISTAN TO OPEN IT YOU MAY BE ABLE TO ENTER THE CLOISTER FROM THE STREET n THE ENTRANCE IS TO THE LEFT OF THE MAIN ENTRANCE DEPICTING THE 2EST DURING THE &LIGHT INTO %GYPT THE PICTURE TAKES ITS CURIOUS NAME FROM THE SACK ON WHICH 3T *OSEPH IS LEANING
4HE -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO /N THE OTHER SIDE OF 6IA DELLA #OLONNA FROM THE SIDE WALL OF 3ANTISSIMA !NNUN ZIATA THE -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO -ON nPM 4UES 4HURS AMnPM 7ED &RIn3UN AMnPM + HOUSES THE MOST IMPORTANT COLLECTION OF ITS KIND IN NORTHERN )TALY )TS SPECIAL STRENGTH IS ITS %TRUSCAN lNDS MANY OF THEM PART OF THE -EDICI BEQUEST /N THE GROUND mOOR THERES A COMPREHENSIVE DISPLAY OF %TRUSCAN FUNERARY lGURES BUT EVEN MORE ARRESTING THAN THESE IS THE &RAN OIS 6ASE AN !TTIC KRATER BOWL FROM THE SIXTH CENTURY "# DISCOVERED IN AN %TRUSCAN TOMB AT #HIUSI 0RIDE OF PLACE IN THE lRST mOOR %GYPTIAN COLLECTION WHERE THE ROOMS ARE HANDSOMELY DECORATED IN MOCK %GYPTIAN FUNERARY STYLE GOES TO A (ITTITE CHARIOT MADE OF BONE AND WOOD AND DATING FROM THE FOUR TEENTH CENTURY "# 4HE GRISLY EXPOSED MUMMIES MAY BE POPULAR WITH KIDS 4HE REST OF THIS mOOR AND MUCH OF THE mOOR ABOVE ARE GIVEN OVER TO THE %TRUSCAN 'REEK AND 2OMAN COLLECTIONS ARRANGED WITH VARIABLE CLARITY /F THE 2OMAN PIECES THE OUTSTANDING ITEM IS THE )DOLINO PROBABLY A COPY OF A lFTH CENTURY "# 'REEK ORIGINAL .EARBY IS A MASSIVE (ELLENISTIC HORSES HEAD WHICH ONCE ADORNED THE GARDEN OF THE 0ALAZZO -EDICI WHERE IT WAS STUDIED BY $ONATELLO AND 6ERROCCHIO )N THE LONG GALLERY YOULL lND THE BEST OF THE %TRUS CAN PIECES THE !RRINGATORE /RATOR THE ONLY KNOWN %TRUSCAN LARGE BRONZE FROM THE (ELLENISTIC PERIOD AND THE #HIMERA A TRIPLE HEADED MONSTER OF THE lFTH CENTURY "# ! SYMBOL OF THE THREE SEASON PRE #HRISTIAN -EDITERRANEAN YEAR THE #HIMERA WAS MUCH ADMIRED BY #OSIMO )S RETINUE OF -ANNERIST ARTISTS AND MANY SUBSEQUENT CONNOISSEURS OF THE OFFBEAT
4HE -USEO 3TIBBERT
4HE DENSE NETWORK OF STREETS NORTHEAST OF THE 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA IS DOMINATED BY THE CAMPANILE OF THE "ADÖA &IORENTINA THE MOST IMPORTANT OF SEVERAL BUILDINGS IN THE AREA THAT HAVE THE STRONGEST ASSOCIATIONS WITH &LORENCES n INDEED )TALYS n FORE MOST POET $ANTE !LIGHIERI )MMEDIATELY OPPOSITE THE CHURCH STANDS THE FORBIDDING BULK OF THE "ARGELLO ONCE THE CITYS PRISON NOW HOME TO A SUPERB ASSEMBLAGE OF SCULPTURE PLUS EXCELLENT COLLECTIONS OF ENAMELS IVORIES GLASSWARE SILVERWARE AND OTHER OBJETS DART 4O GET A FULL IDEA OF THE ACHIEVEMENT OF THE &LORENTINE 2ENAIS SANCE A VISIT TO THE "ARGELLO IS AS IMPORTANT AS A DAY IN THE 5FlZI AND AS A CORREC TIVE TO THE NOTION THAT &LORENCES CONTRIBUTION TO %UROPEAN CIVILIZATION HAS BEEN LIMITED TO THE ARTS YOU SHOULD CALL IN AT THE FASCINATING -USEO DI 3TORIA DELLA 3CIENZA AT THE BACK OF THE 5FlZI &URTHER EAST RISES THE VAST &RANCISCAN CHURCH OF 3ANTA #ROCE WHOSE ARCHITECTURE AND FRESCOES MAKE IT ONE OF THE MOST COMPEL LING SIGHTS IN &LORENCE 4HE CHURCH IS THE CENTREPIECE OF A DISTRICT WHICH WAS ONE OF &LORENCES MORE DENSELY POPULATED DISTRICTS BEFORE .OVEMBER TH WHEN THE !RNO BURST ITS BANKS AND THE LOW LYING 3ANTA #ROCE AREA PACKED WITH TENE MENTS AND SMALL WORKSHOPS WAS VERY BADLY DAMAGED -ANY RESIDENTS MOVED OUT PERMANENTLY IN THE FOLLOWING YEARS BUT NOW THE MORE TRADITIONAL SHOPS BARS AND RESTAURANTS THAT SURVIVED THE mOOD HAVE BEEN JOINED BY A GROWING NUMBER OF NEW AND OFTEN EXTREMELY GOOD BARS AND RESTAURANTS A TRANSFORMATION THATS PARTICULARLY NOTICEABLE AROUND THE 3ANT!MBROGIO MARKET )N ADDITION TO THE GREAT CHURCH AND ITS MUSEUM THE OTHER MAIN CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS IN THIS PART OF THE CITY ARE THE -USEO (ORNE A MODEST BUT PLEASING COLLECTION OF ART TREASURES AND THE #ASA "UONARROTI A LESS THAN ENTIRELY SATISFYING HOMAGE TO -ICHELANGELO
4HE -USEO DI 3TORIA DELLA 3CIENZA ,ONG AFTER &LORENCE HAD DECLINED FROM ITS ARTISTIC APOGEE THE INTELLECTUAL REPUTATION OF THE CITY WAS MAINTAINED BY ITS SCIENTISTS MANY OF THEM DIRECTLY
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!BOUT M NORTH OF 3AN -ARCO AT 6IA 3TIBBERT BUS FROM THE STATION IS THE LOOPIEST OF &LORENCES MUSEUMS THE -USEO 3TIBBERT -ONn7ED AMnPM &RIn3UN AMnPM COMPULSORY GUIDED TOUR + 4HIS RAMBLING MURKY MANSION WAS THE HOME OF THE HALF 3COTTISH HALF )TALIAN &REDERICK 3TIBBERT WHO IN HIS TWENTIES MADE A NAME FOR HIMSELF IN 'ARIBALDIS ARMY ,ATER HE INHERITED A FOURTEENTH CENTURY HOUSE FROM HIS MOTHER THEN BOUGHT THE NEIGHBOURING MANSION AND JOINED THE TWO TOGETHER THUS CREATING A PLACE BIG ENOUGH TO ACCOMMODATE THE FRUITS OF HIS COMPULSIVE COL LECTING 4HE ROOMS CONTAIN OVER lFTY THOUSAND ITEMS RANGING FROM SNUFF BOXES TO PAINTINGS BY #ARLO #RIVELLI AND A POSSIBLE "OTTICELLI -ILITARIA WERE &REDERICKS CHIEF ENTHUSIASM AND THE 3TIBBERT ARMOUR COLLECTION IS RECKONED ONE OF THE WORLDS BEST )T INCLUDES 2OMAN %TRUSCAN AND *APANESE EXAM PLES THE HIGHLIGHT OF THE WHOLE MUSEUM AS WELL AS A lFTEENTH CENTURY CONDOTTIERES OUTlT AND THE ARMOUR WORN BY THE GREAT -EDICI COMMANDER 'IOVANNI DELLE "ANDE .ERE RETRIEVED FROM HIS GRAVE IN 3AN ,ORENZO IN 4HE BIG PRODUCTION NUMBER COMES IN THE GREAT HALL BETWEEN THE TWO HOUSES WHERE A PLATOON OF MANNEQUINS IS CLAD IN FULL SIXTEENTH CENTURY GEAR !LSO ON SHOW IS THE REGALIA IN WHICH .APOLEON WAS CROWNED KING OF )TALY
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ENCOURAGED BY THE RULING -EDICI ,ORRAINE DYNASTY 4WO OF THE LATTER 'RAND $UKE &ERDINANDO )) AND HIS BROTHER ,EOPOLDO BOTH OF WHOM STUDIED WITH 'ALILEO FOUNDED A SCIENTIlC ACADEMY AT THE 0ITTI IN #ALLED THE !CCADEMIA DEL #IMENTO !CADEMY OF %XPERIMENT ITS MOTTO WAS h4RY AND TRY AGAINv 4HE INSTRUMENTS MADE AND ACQUIRED BY THIS ACADEMY ARE THE CORE OF THE -USEO DI 3TORIA DELLA 3CIENZA -ON 7EDn&RI AMnPM 4UES 3AT AMnPM /CTn-AY OPEN 3AT TILL PM AND ND 3UN OF MONTH AMnPM + 4HE lRST ELEVEN EXHIBITION ROOMS FEATURE MEASURING INSTRUMENTS NOTABLY A SELECTION OF BEAUTIFUL !RAB ASTROLABES 4HERES ALSO A MASSIVE ARMILLARY SPHERE MADE FOR &ERDINANDO ) TO PROVIDE A VISUAL DEMONSTRATION OF THE SUPPOSED VERACITY OF THE EARTH CENTRED 0TOLEMAIC SYSTEM AND THE FALLACY OF #OPERNICUSS HELIOCENTRIC UNIVERSE 'ALILEOS ORIGINAL INSTRUMENTS ARE ON SHOW HERE SUCH AS THE LENS WITH WHICH HE DISCOVERED THE FOUR MOONS OF *UPITER WHICH HE TACT FULLY NAMED THE -EDICEAN PLANETS /N THIS mOOR YOULL ALSO lND THE MUSEUMS EQUIVALENT OF A RELIGIOUS RELIC n A BONE FROM ONE OF 'ALILEOS lNGERS n BUT THE MOST IMPRESSIVE OF SEVERAL FASCINATING ROOMS IS 2OOM lLLED WITH DOZENS OF GORGEOUS GLOBES AND OLD MAPS /N THE mOOR ABOVE THERE ARE ALL KINDS OF SCIENTIlC AND MECHANICAL EQUIP MENT SOME n SUCH AS A PERPETUAL MOTION MACHINE n FROM THE QUASI MAGICAL REALMS OF SCIENTIlC ENDEAVOUR 2OOM SETS THE TONE WITH DOZENS OF OLD CLOCKS AND TIMEPIECES 4HERE ARE ALSO A COUPLE OF REMARKABLE OUTSIZED EXHIBITS THE HUGE LENS MADE FOR #OSIMO ))) WITH WHICH &ARADAY AND $AVY MANAGED TO IGNITE A DIAMOND BY FOCUSING THE RAYS OF THE SUN AND THE ENORMOUS LODESTONE GIVEN BY 'ALILEO TO &ERDINANDO )) /THER ROOMS FEATURE PHARMACEUTICAL AND CHEMICAL APPARATUS 4HE BEST IS SAVED FOR LAST A MEDICAL SECTION FULL OF ALARMING SURGICAL INSTRU MENTS AND ANATOMICAL WAX MODELS FOR TEACHING OBSTETRICS 2OOM CONCLUDES WITH THE CONTENTS OF A MEDIEVAL PHARMACY DISPLAYING SUCH UNLIKELY CURE ALLS AS 3ANGUE DEL $RAGO $RAGONS "LOOD AND #ONFETTI DI 3EME 3ANTO #ONFECTIONS OF "LESSED 3EED
4HE "ARGELLO 4HE 2ENAISSANCE SCULPTURE COLLECTION OF THE -USEO .AZIONALE DEL "ARGELLO 4UESn3AT AMnPM ND TH 3UN OF MONTH AND ST RD TH -ON OF MONTH SAME HOURS + AT 6IA DEL 0ROCONSOLO IS THE RICHEST IN )TALY BUT THE MUSEUM ALSO DEVOTES A VAST AMOUNT OF SPACE TO THE DECORATIVE ARTS CARPETS ENAMELS IVORIES GLASSWARE TAPESTRIES SILVERWARE AND OTHER OBJETS DART OF THE HIGHEST QUALITY !LTHOUGH THEY RECEIVE SCANT ATTENTION FROM MOST VISITORS IT WOULD BE AS EASY TO SPEND AS MUCH TIME ON THE DOZEN OR MORE ROOMS lLLED WITH THESE TREASURES AS THE FOUR ROOMS DEVOTED TO SCULPTURE 4HE "ARGELLOS HOME THE DAUNTING 0ALAZZO DEL "ARGELLO WAS BUILT IN IMMEDIATELY AFTER THE OVERTHROW OF THE ARISTOCRATIC REGIME 4HE lRST OF THE CITYS PUBLIC PALACES IT SOON BECAME THE SEAT OF THE 0ODESTÌ THE CITYS CHIEF MAGISTRATE AND THE SITE OF THE MAIN LAW COURT .UMEROUS MALEFACTORS WERE TORTURED TRIED SENTENCED AND EXECUTED HERE THE ELEGANT COURTYARD HAVING BEEN THE SITE OF THE CITYS GALLOWS AND BLOCK 4HE BUILDING ACQUIRED ITS PRESENT NAME AFTER WHEN THE -EDICI ABOLISHED THE POST OF 0ODESTÌ THE BUILDING BECOMING HOME TO THE CHIEF OF POLICE n THE "ARGELLO 4ORTURE AND CAPITAL PUNISHMENT WERE BANNED IN THE lRST SUCH ABOLITION IN %UROPE THOUGH THE BUILDING REMAINED A PRISON UNTIL
4HE GROUND mOOR
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9OUVE NO TIME TO CATCH YOUR BREATH IN THE "ARGELLO THE lRST ROOM TO THE RIGHT OF THE TICKET OFlCE IS CRAMMED WITH TREASURES CHIEF OF WHICH ARE THE WORK OF -ICHELANGELO IN WHOSE SHADOW EVERY &LORENTINE SCULPTOR LABOURED FROM THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY ONWARDS 4HE TIPSY SOFT BELLIED lGURE OF "ACCHUS n WAS HIS lRST MAJOR SCULPTURE CARVED AT THE AGE OF A YEAR OR SO BEFORE HIS GREAT 0IETÌ IN 2OME -ICHELANGELOS STYLE SOON EVOLVED INTO SOMETHING LESS OSTENTA TIOUSLY VIRTUOSIC AS IS SHOWN BY THE TENDER 4ONDO 0ITTI n WHILE THE RUGGED EXPRESSIVITY OF HIS LATE MANNER IS EXEMPLIlED BY THE SQUARE JAWED "UST OF "RUTUS C THE ARTISTS SOLE WORK OF THIS KIND ! POWERFUL PORTRAIT SKETCH IN STONE ITS A CODED CELEBRATION OF ANTI -EDICEAN REPUBLICANISM CARVED SOON AFTER THE MURDER OF THE NIGHTMARISH $UKE !LESSANDRO DE -EDICI SEE P 7ORKS BY -ICHELANGELOS FOLLOWERS AND CONTEMPORARIES ARE RANGED IN THE IMMEDIATE VICINITY SOME OF THEM WOULD COMMAND PROLONGED ATTENTION IN LESS EXALTED COMPANY "ENVENUTO #ELLINIS HUGE "UST OF #OSIMO ) n HIS lRST WORK IN BRONZE WAS A SORT OF TECHNICAL TRIAL FOR THE CASTING OF THE 0ERSEUS HIS MOST FAMOUS WORK !LONGSIDE THE TWO PREPARATORY MODELS FOR THE 0ERSEUS IN WAX AND BRONZE ARE DISPLAYED THE ORIGINAL MARBLE BASE AND FOUR STATUETTES THAT COMPRISE THE STATUES PEDESTAL 0ERSEUS HIMSELF STILL STANDS IN HIS INTENDED SPOT IN THE ,OGGIA DELLA 3IGNORIA SEE P #LOSE BY 'IAMBOLOGNAS VOLUPTUOUS &LORENCE $EFEATING 0ISA n A DISIN GENUOUS PRETEXT FOR A GLAMOUR DISPLAY IF EVER THERE WERE ONE n TAKES UP A LOT OF SPACE BUT IS ECLIPSED BY HIS BEST KNOWN CREATION THE WONDERFUL -ERCURY A NIMBLE lGURE WITH NO BAD ANGLES #OMIC RELIEF IS PROVIDED BY THE RELIABLY INEPT "ANDINELLI WHOSE COIFFURED !DAM AND %VE LOOK LIKE A GRANDEE AND HIS WIFE TAKING AN AU NATUREL STROLL THROUGH THEIR COUNTRY ESTATE 4HE POWERFULLY EROTIC ,EDA AND THE 3WAN BY !MMANNATI n WAS INSPIRED BY A PAINTING OF THE SUBJECT BY -ICHELANGELO THAT WAS LATER DESTROYED 0ART TWO OF THE GROUND mOORS COLLECTION LIES ACROSS THE 'OTHIC COURTYARD WHICH IS PLASTERED WITH THE COATS OF ARMS OF THE 0ODESTÌ !GAINST THE FAR WALL STAND SIX ALLEGORICAL lGURES BY !MMANNATI FROM THE FOUNTAIN OF THE 0ALAZZO 0ITTI COURTYARD /F THE TWO ROOMS ACROSS THE YARD THE ONE TO THE LEFT FEATURES LARGELY FOURTEENTH CENTURY WORKS NOTABLY PIECES BY !RNOLFO DI #AMBIO AND 4INO DA #AMAINO TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS ARE OFTEN HELD IN THE ROOM TO THE RIGHT 4HE lRST mOOR
!T THE TOP OF 'IULIANO DA 3ANGALLOS COURTYARD STAIRCASE THE lRST mOOR LOGGIA HAS BEEN TURNED INTO A MENAGERIE FOR 'IAMBOLOGNAS QUAINT BRONZE ANIMALS AND BIRDS IMPORTED FROM THE -EDICI VILLA AT #ASTELLO JUST OUTSIDE &LOR ENCE 4HE NEARER DOORWAY TO THE RIGHT OPENS INTO THE TALL 'OTHIC 3ALONE DEL #ONSIGLIO 'ENERALE THE MUSEUMS SECOND KEY ROOM (ERE AGAIN THE NUMBER OF MASTERPIECES IS BREATHTAKING THOUGH THIS TIME THE PRESIDING GENIUS IS $ON ATELLO THE FOUNTAINHEAD OF 2ENAISSANCE SCULPTURE 6ESTIGES OF THE SINUOUS 'OTHIC MANNER ARE EVIDENT IN THE DRAPERY OF HIS MARBLE $AVID BUT THERES NOTHING ANTIQUATED IN THE 3T 'EORGE CARVED FOR THE TABERNACLE OF THE ARMOURERS GUILD AT /RSANMICHELE AND INSTALLED IN A REPLICA OF ITS ORIGINAL NICHE AT THE FAR END OF THE ROOM )F ANY ONE SCULPTURE COULD BE SAID TO EMBODY THE SHIFT OF SENSIBILITY THAT OCCURRED IN QUATTROCENTO &LORENCE THIS IS IT WHEREAS 3AINT 'EORGE HAD PREVIOUSLY BEEN LITTLE MORE THAN A SYMBOL OF VALOUR THIS ALERT TENSED lGURE REPRESENTS NOT THE ACT OF HEROISM BUT THE VOLITION BEHIND IT 4HE SLAYING OF THE DRAGON IS DEPICTED IN THE SMALL BADLY ERODED MARBLE PANEL UNDERNEATH A PIECE AS REVOLUTIONARY AS THE lGURE OF THE SAINT WITH ITS SEAMLESS INTERWEAVING OF FOREGROUND AND BACKGROUND
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!LSO HERE IS THE SEXUALLY AMBIVALENT BRONZE $AVID THE lRST FREESTANDING NUDE lGURE CREATED SINCE CLASSICAL TIMES n ! DECADE LATER THE SCULPTOR PRODUCED THE STRANGE PRANCING lGURE KNOWN AS !MOR !TYS WHICH WAS MISTAKEN FOR A GENUINE STATUE FROM CLASSICAL ANTIQUITY n THE HIGHEST COMPLIMENT THE ART IST COULD HAVE WISHED FOR $ONATELLO WAS JUST AS COMFORTABLE WITH PORTRAITURE AS WITH #HRISTIAN OR PAGAN IMAGERY AS HIS BREATHTAKINGLY VIVID TERRACOTTA "UST OF .ICCOLÛ DA 5ZZANO DEMONSTRATES IT MAY BE THE EARLIEST 2ENAISSANCE PORTRAIT BUST 7HEN THE OCCASION DEMANDED $ONATELLO COULD ALSO PRODUCE A STRAIGHT FORWARDLY MONUMENTAL PIECE LIKE THE NEARBY -ARZOCCO n &LORENCES HERALDIC LION $ONATELLOS MASTER 'HIBERTI IS REPRESENTED BY HIS RELIEF OF !BRAHAMS 3ACRI lCE HIS ENTRY IN THE COMPETITION TO DESIGN THE "APTISTERY DOORS IN EAS ILY MISSED ON THE RIGHT HAND WALL THE TREATMENT OF THE THEME SUBMITTED BY "RUNELLESCHI EFFECTIVELY THE RUNNER UP IS HUNG ALONGSIDE 3ET AROUND THE WALLS OF THE ROOM ,UCA DELLA 2OBBIAS SIMPLE SWEET NATURED HUMANISM IS EMBOD IED IN A SEQUENCE OF GLAZED TERRACOTTA -ADONNAS 4HE REST OF THIS mOOR IS OCCUPIED BY A SUPERB COLLECTION OF %UROPEAN AND )SLAMIC APPLIED ART WITH DAZZLING SPECIMENS OF WORK IN ENAMEL GLASS SILVER MAJOLICA AND IVORY AMONG THE IVORY PIECES FROM "YZANTIUM AND MEDIEVAL &RANCE YOULL lND COMBS BOXES CHESS PIECES AND DEVOTIONAL PANELS FEATURING SCORES OF lGURES CRAMMED INTO A SPACE THE SIZE OF A PAPERBACK 2OOM THE #APPELLA DI 3ANTA -ARIA -ADDALENA IS DECORATED WITH FRESCOES DISCOVERED IN WHEN THE ROOM WAS CONVERTED FROM A PRISON CELL LONG ATTRIBUTED TO 'IOTTO THEYRE NOW THOUGHT TO BE BY FOLLOWERS 4HE SECOND mOOR
3CULPTURE RESUMES UPSTAIRS WITH A ROOM LARGELY DEVOTED TO THE DELLA 2OB BIA FAMILY A PRELUDE TO THE 3ALA DEI "RONZETTI )TALYS BEST ASSEMBLY OF SMALL 2ENAISSANCE BRONZES 'IAMBOLOGNAS SPIRALLING DESIGNS PREDOMINATE A TESTAMENT TO HIS POPULARITY IN LATE SIXTEENTH CENTURY &LORENCE LOOK OUT FOR THE (ERCULES SERIES %RCOLE IN )TALIAN SHOWING THE HERO VARIOUSLY WRESTLING AND CLUBBING HIS OPPONENTS INTO SUBMISSION !N INTERESTING CONTRAST IS PROVIDED BY !NTONIO DEL 0OLLAIUOLOS EARLIER AND MUCH MORE VIOLENT (ERCULES AND !NTAEUS C WHICH STANDS ON A PILLAR NEARBY ,IKE ,EONARDO 0OLLAIUOLO UNRAVELLED THE COM PLEXITIES OF HUMAN MUSCULATURE BY DISSECTING CORPSES !LSO ON THIS mOOR THERES ANOTHER ROOMFUL OF DELLA 2OBBIAS AND A SPLENDID DIS PLAY OF BRONZE MEDALS FEATURING SPECIMENS FROM THE GREAT PIONEER OF THIS FORM OF PORTABLE ART 0ISANELLO AMONG WHOSE COIN SIZED PORTRAITS YOULL SEE ,EONELLO D%STE THE LORD OF &ERRARA 3IGISMONDO -ALATESTA THE LORD OF 2IMINI AND *OHN 0ALEOLOGUS ))) THE PENULTIMATE EMPEROR OF "YZANTIUM ,ASTLY THERES A ROOM DEVOTED MAINLY TO 2ENAISSANCE PORTRAIT BUSTS WHERE THE CENTREPIECE IS 6ER ROCCHIOS $AVID CLEARLY INmUENCED BY THE $ONATELLO lGURE DOWNSTAIRS !ROUND THE WALLS YOULL lND -INO DA &IESOLES BUSTS OF 'IOVANNI DE -EDICI AND 0IERO IL 'OTTOSO THE SONS OF #OSIMO DE -EDICI !NTONIO DEL 0OLLAIUOLOS 9OUNG #AVALIER WHICH IS PROBABLY ANOTHER -EDICI PORTRAIT AND A BUST LABELLED 2ITRATTO D)GNOTO 0ORTRAIT OF AN 5NKNOWN -AN n BESIDE 6ERROCCHIOS -ADONNA AND #HILD n WHICH MAY IN FACT DEPICT -ACCHIAVELLI !LSO OUTSTANDING ARE &RANCESCO ,AURANAS "ATTISTA 3FORZA AN INTERESTING COMPARISON WITH THE 0IERO DELLA &RANC ESCA PORTRAIT IN THE 5FlZI THE 7OMAN (OLDING &LOWERS BY 6ERROCCHIO THE lRST SUCH PORTRAIT BUST TO SHOW THE SUBJECTS HANDS AND THE FRAUGHT MARBLE RELIEF IN WHICH 6ERROCCHIO PORTRAYS THE DEATH OF &RANCESCA 4ORNABUONI 0ITTI FROM WHOSE TOMB THIS PANEL WAS TAKEN
4HE "ADÖA &IORENTINA AND AROUND
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$IRECTLY OPPOSITE THE "ARGELLO LIES THE "ADÖA &IORENTINA NOW APPROACHING THE END OF MANY YEARS OF RESTORATION 4OURIST VISITS ARE ALLOWED ON -ONDAY AFTER NOONS nPM AT OTHER TIMES THE CHURCH IS OPEN FOR PRAYER ONLY FOLLOWING THE MONASTIC RULES OF THE &RATERNITY OF *ERUSALEM WHOSE CHURCH THIS IS 4HE DARK INTERIOR AND FRESCO COVERED CLOISTER ARE WELL WORTH A FEW MINUTES 4HE "ADÖA !BBEY IS ALSO A PLACE OF REVERENCE FOR ADMIRERS OF $ANTE FOR THIS WAS THE PARISH CHURCH OF "EATRICE 0ORTINARI FOR WHOM HE CONCEIVED A LIFELONG LOVE AS HE WATCHED HER AT -ASS HERE SEE P &URTHERMORE IT WAS HERE THAT "OCCACCIO DELIVERED HIS CELEBRATED LECTURES ON $ANTES THEOLOGICAL EPIC &OUNDED IN BY 7ILLA WIDOW OF THE -ARGRAVE OF 4USCANY IN HONOUR OF HER HUSBAND THE "ADÖA WAS ONE OF THE FOCAL BUILDINGS IN MEDIEVAL &LORENCE THE CITYS SICK WERE TREATED IN A HOSPITAL FOUNDED HERE IN WHILE THE MAIN BELL MARKED THE DIVISIONS OF THE WORKING DAY 4HE HOSPITAL ALSO OWED MUCH TO 7ILLAS SON 5GO WHO FURTHER ENDOWED HIS MOTHERS FOUNDATION AFTER A VISION OF THE HELLISH TORMENTS WHICH AWAITED HIM BY hREASON OF HIS WORLDLY LIFE UNLESS HE SHOULD REPENTv 4HE S SAW THE CHURCH OVERHAULED ALONG #ISTERCIAN 'OTHIC LINES PROBABLY UNDER THE DIRECTION OF !RNOLFO DI #AMBIO ARCHITECT OF THE $UOMO AND 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO ,ATER "AROQUE ADDITIONS SMOTHERED MUCH OF THE OLD CHURCH IN THOUGH THE NARROW CAMPANILE n 2OMANESQUE AT ITS BASE 'OTHIC TOWARDS ITS APEX n ESCAPED UNHARMED #OMPLETED BETWEEN AND IT REMAINS A PROMINENT FEATURE OF THE &LORENTINE SKYLINE /N THE LEFT AS YOU ENTER FROM 6IA $ANTE !LIGHIERI HANGS &ILIPPINO ,IPPIS SUPERB !PPARITION OF THE 6IRGIN TO 3T "ERNARD SET BACK TO THE RIGHT IS THE CHURCHS SECOND HIGHLIGHT THE TOMB MONUMENT TO 5GO SCULPTED BY -INO DA &IESOLE BETWEEN AND -INO WAS ALSO RESPONSIBLE FOR THE NEARBY TOMB OF "ERNARDO 'IUGNI AND AN ALTAR FRONTAL OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 33 ,EONARD AND ,AWRENCE 'IUGNI WAS A LAWYER AND DIPLOMAT HENCE THE lGURES OF *USTICE AND &AITH ACCOMPANYING HIS EFlGY ! STAIRCASE LEADS FROM THE CHOIR n TAKE THE DOOR IMMEDIATELY RIGHT OF THE HIGH ALTAR n TO THE UPPER STOREY OF THE #HIOSTRO DEGLI !RANCI #LOISTER OF THE /RANGES NAMED AFTER THE FRUIT TREES THAT USED TO BE GROWN HERE 4WO OF ITS mANKS ARE GRACED WITH AN ANONYMOUS BUT HIGHLY DISTINCTIVE FRESCO CYCLE n ON THE LIFE OF 3T "ENEDICT ! LATER PANEL n SHOWING THE SAINT THROWING HIMSELF INTO BUSHES TO RESIST TEMPTATION n IS BY THE YOUNG "RONZINO n 4HE CLOISTER ITSELF n IS THE WORK OF "ERNARDO 2OSSELLINO ONE OF THE LEADING LIGHTS OF EARLY 2ENAISSANCE ARCHITECTURE 4HE $ANTE DISTRICT
!FTER VISITING THE "ADÖA &IORENTINA YOU MIGHT WANT TO EXPLORE THE CITYS KNOT OF BUILDINGS WITH $ANTE ASSOCIATIONS n SOME OF THEM ADMITTEDLY SPURIOUS n THAT CLUSTER TOGETHER IN THE GRID OF MINOR STREETS BEHIND THE "ADÖA BETWEEN 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO AND 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA 3TART YOUR PEREGRINATIONS AT THE "APTISTERY ONE OF ONLY THREE &LORENTINE CHURCHES MENTIONED BY THE POET .EARBY SOUTH OF THE $UOMO SEARCH OUT THE SO CALLED 3ASSO DI $ANTE $ANTES 3TONE SET BETWEEN 6IA DELLO 3TUDIO AND 6IA DEL 0ROCONSOLO $ANTE IS SUPPOSED TO HAVE SAT HERE AND WATCHED THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE CATHEDRAL 7ALK DOWN 6IA DELLO 3TUDIO AND AT ITS JUNCTION WITH 6IA DEL #ORSO LIES THE 0ALAZZO 3ALVIATI SITE OF "EATRICES FORMER HOME 4HE COURTYARD STILL CONTAINS THE SO CALLED .ICCHIA DI $ANTE $ANTES .ICHE FROM WHICH THE YOUNG $ANTE IS SAID TO HAVE WATCHED HIS INAMORATA #ROSS 6IA DEL #ORSO FROM THE 0ALAZZO 3ALVIATI THEN HEAD DOWN 6IA 3ANTA -AR GHERITA AND YOU COME TO A SMALL PIAZZA FRONTING THE #ASA DI $ANTE 4UESn3AT
$ANTE !LIGHIERI
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$ANTE SIGNED HIMSELF h$ANTE !LIGHIERI A &LORENTINE BY BIRTH BUT NOT BY CHARACTERv A BITTER ALLUSION TO THE CITY HE SERVED AS A POLITICIAN BUT WHICH LATER CAST HIM INTO EXILE AND WAS TO INSPIRE SOME OF THE MOST VITRIOLIC PASSAGES IN HIS GREAT EPIC POEM ,A $IVINA #OMMEDIA 4HE $IVINE #OMEDY 4HE POET WAS BORN IN INTO A MINOR AND IMPOVERISHED NOBLE FAMILY (E WAS EDUCATED AT "OLOGNA AND LATER AT 0ADUA WHERE HE STUDIED PHILOSOPHY AND ASTRONOMY 4HE DElNING MOMENT IN HIS LIFE CAME IN WHEN HE MET THE YEAR OLD "EATRICE 0ORTINARI A YOUNG GIRL WHOM "OCCACCIO DESCRIBED AS POSSESSED OF hHABITS AND LANGUAGE MORE SERIOUS AND MODEST THAN HER AGE WARRANTEDv (ER FEATURES WERE hSO DELICATE AND SO BEAUTIFULLY FORMED v HE WENT ON hAND FULL BESIDES MERE BEAUTY OF SO MUCH CANDID LOVELINESS THAT MANY THOUGHT HER ALMOST AN ANGELv $ANTE n JUST AT THE TIME OF THE MEETING n LATER DESCRIBED HIS OWN FEELING FOLLOWING THE ENCOUNTER h,OVE RULED MY SOUL v HE WROTE hAND BEGAN TO HOLD SUCH SWAY OVER MEx THAT IT WAS NECESSARY FOR ME TO DO COMPLETELY ALL HIS PLEASURE (E COMMANDED ME OFTEN THAT ) SHOULD ENDEAVOUR TO SEE THIS SO YOUTHFUL ANGEL AND ) SAW IN HER SUCH NOBLE AND PRAISEWORTHY DEPORTMENT THAT TRULY OF HER MIGHT BE SAID THESE WORDS OF THE POET (OMER n 3HE APPEARED TO BE BORN NOT OF MORTAL MAN BUT OF 'ODv 5NHAPPILY "EATRICES FAMILY HAD DECIDED THEIR DAUGHTER WAS TO MARRY SOMEONE ELSE n 3IMONE DE "ARDI 4HE CEREMONY TOOK PLACE WHEN SHE WAS SEVEN YEARS LATER SHE WAS DEAD $ANTE FOR HIS PART HAD BEEN PROMISED n AGED n TO 'EMMA $ONATI 4HE WEDDING TOOK PLACE IN WHEN THE POET WAS (IS ROMANTIC HOPES DASHED $ANTE SETTLED DOWN TO A MILITARY AND POLITICAL CAREER )N HE FOUGHT FOR &LORENCE AGAINST !REZZO AND HELPED IN A CAMPAIGN AGAINST 0ISA ,ATER HE JOINED THE !POTHECARIES 'UILD SERVING ON A VARIETY OF MINOR CIVIC COMMIT TEES )N HE WAS DISPATCHED TO 3AN 'IMIGNANO WHERE HE WAS ENTRUSTED WITH THE JOB OF COAXING THE TOWN INTO AN ALLIANCE AGAINST 0OPE "ONIFACE 6))) WHO HAD DESIGNS ON 4USCANY )N *UNE OF THE SAME YEAR HE SOUGHT TO SETTLE THE WIDENING BREACH BETWEEN THE "LACK ANTI IMPERIAL AND 7HITE MORE CONCILIATORY FACTIONS OF &LORENCES RULING 'UELPH PARTY 4HE DISPUTE HAD ITS ROOTS IN MONEY THE 7HITES CONTAINED LEADING BANKERS TO THE IMPERIAL POWERS THE #ERCHI -OZZI $AVANZATI AND &RESCOBALDI WHILE THE "LACKS COUNTED THE 0AZZI "ARDI AND $ONATI AMONGST THEIR NUMBER ALL PROMINENT PAPAL BANKERS "ONIFACE NOT SURPRISINGLY SIDED WITH THE "LACKS WHO EVENTUALLY EMERGED TRIUMPHANT $ANTES 7HITE SYMPATHIES SEALED HIS FATE )N FOLLOWING TRUMPED UP CHARGES OF CORRUPTION HE WAS SENTENCED WITH OTHER 7HITES TO TWO YEARS EXILE 7HILE MANY OF THE DEPORTEES SUBSEQUENTLY RETURNED $ANTE REJECTED HIS CITY OF hSELF MADE MEN AND FAST GOT GAINv (E WANDERED INSTEAD BETWEEN &ORLÖ 6ERONA 0ADUA ,UNI AND 6ENICE WRITING MUCH OF 4HE $IVINE #OMEDY AS HE WENT BEFORE lNALLY SETTLING IN 2AVENNA WHERE HE DIED IN
PLUS ST 3UN OF MONTH AMnPM OTHER 3UNDAYS AMnPM BUT CLOSED LAST 3UN OF MONTH + 3OMEWHAT FRAUDULENTLY MARKETED AS $ANTES HOUSE THE BUILDING IS ACTUALLY A MEDIEVAL PASTICHE DATING FROM 4HE MODEST MUSEUM UPSTAIRS IS A HOMAGE TO THE POET RATHER THAN A SHRINE IT CONTAINS NOTHING DIRECTLY RELATED TO HIS LIFE AND IN ALL LIKELIHOOD $ANTE WAS BORN NOT ON THE HOUSES SITE BUT SOMEWHERE IN THE STREET THAT BEARS HIS NAME !S CONTENTIOUS AS THE #ASA DI $ANTES CLAIMS IS THE STORY THAT $ANTE MARRIED 'EMMA $ONATI IN 3ANTA -ARGHERITA DE #ERCHI -ONn3AT AMnNOON nPM 3UN AMnNOON THE ANCIENT LITTLE CHURCH UP THE STREET FROM THE #ASA DI $ANTE ON THE RIGHT $OCUMENTED AS EARLY AS THE BUILDING DOES HOWEVER CONTAIN SEVERAL TOMBS BELONGING TO THE 0ORTINARI "EATRICES FAMILY NAME THE PORCH ALSO FEATURES THE $ONATI FAMILY CREST AS THIS WAS ALSO THEIR LOCAL PARISH CHURCH
4HE FOCAL POINT OF THE EASTERN QUARTER OF THE CITY CENTRE IS 0IAZZA 3ANTA #ROCE ONE OF &LORENCES LARGEST SQUARES AND TRADITIONALLY ONE OF THE CITYS MAIN ARENAS FOR CEREMONIALS AND FESTIVITIES 4HUS WHEN ,ORENZO THE -AGNIlCENT WAS MARRIED TO THE 2OMAN HEIRESS #LARICE /RSINI THE WEDDING WAS CELEBRATED ON THIS SQUARE WITH A TOURNAMENT THAT WAS MORE A FASHION EVENT THAN A CONTEST OF SKILL ,ORENZOS KNIGHTLY OUTlT FOR INSTANCE WAS ADORNED WITH PEARLS DIAMONDS AND RUBIES )TS STILL USED AS THE PITCH FOR THE 'IOCO DI #ALCIO 3TORICO A MAD FOOTBALL TOURNAMENT BETWEEN THE CITYS FOUR QUARTIERI SEE P 4HE CHURCH OF 3ANTA #ROCE -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM + IS THE &RANCISCANS PRINCIPAL CHURCH IN &LORENCE n A RIVAL TO THE $OMINI CANS 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA n AND IS OFTEN SAID TO HAVE BEEN FOUNDED BY 3T &RANCIS HIMSELF )N TRUTH IT WAS PROBABLY BEGUN SEVENTY OR SO YEARS AFTER &RAN CISS DEATH IN POSSIBLY BY THE ARCHITECT OF THE $UOMO !RNOLFO DI #AM BIO )T REPLACED A SMALLER CHURCH ON THE SITE A BUILDING THAT HAD BECOME TOO SMALL FOR THE VAST CONGREGATIONS GATHERING TO HEAR THE &RANCISCANS HOMILIES ON POVERTY CHASTITY AND OBEDIENCE IN WHAT WAS THEN ONE OF THE CITYS POOREST AREAS )RONICALLY IT WAS &LORENCES RICHEST FAMILIES WHO FUNDED THE CONSTRUC TION OF 3ANTA #ROCE TO ATONE FOR THE SIN OF USURY ON WHICH THEIR FORTUNES WERE BASED 0LUTOCRATS SUCH AS THE "ARDI 0ERUZZI AND "ARONCELLI SPONSORED THE EXTRAORDINARY FRESCO CYCLES THAT WERE LAVISHED ON THE CHAPELS OVER THE YEARS PARTICULARLY DURING THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY WHEN ARTISTS OF THE STATURE OF 'IOTTO AND THE 'ADDI FAMILY WORKED HERE )N FURTHER CONTRADICTION OF THE &RANCISCAN IDEAL OF HUMILITY 3ANTA #ROCE HAS LONG SERVED AS THE NATIONAL PAN THEON THE WALLS AND NAVE mOOR ARE LINED WITH THE MONUMENTS TO MORE THAN ILLUSTRIOUS )TALIANS MANY OF THEM 4USCAN INCLUDING -ICHELANGELO 'ALILEO -ACHIAVELLI !LBERTI $ANTE AND THE GREAT PHYSICIST %NRICO &ERMI THOUGH THE LAST TWO ARE NOT BURIED HERE /F ALL THE EVENTS THAT HAVE HAPPENED AT 3ANTA #ROCE NONE WAS MORE MOMEN TOUS THAN THE #OUNCIL OF &LORENCE HELD IN IN AN ATTEMPT TO RECONCILE THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE 2OMAN AND %ASTERN CHURCHES !TTENDED BY THE POPE THE "YZANTINE EMPEROR AND THE 0ATRIARCH OF #ONSTANTINOPLE THE COUN CIL ARRIVED AT A COMPROMISE THAT LASTED ONLY UNTIL THE "YZANTINE DELEGATION RETURNED HOME )TS MORE ENDURING EFFECT WAS THAT IT BROUGHT SCORES OF CLASSICAL SCHOLARS TO THE CITY SOME OF WHOM STAYED ON TO GIVE AN IMPORTANT IMPETUS TO THE &LORENTINE 2ENAISSANCE
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/VER 6IA $ANTE !LIGHIERI FROM THE POETS HOUSE ON 0IAZZA 3AN -ARTINO LIES THE TINY 3AN -ARTINO DEL 6ESCOVO -ONn4HURS 3AT AMnNOON nPM &RI AMnNOON BUILT ON THE SITE OF A SMALL ORATORY FOUNDED IN THAT SERVED AS THE !LIGHIERIS PARISH CHURCH 2EBUILT IN IT LATER BECAME THE HEADQUARTERS OF THE #OMPAGNIA DI "UONOMINI A CHARITABLE BODY DEDICATED TO AIDING IMPOVERISHED BETTER CLASS CITIZENS FOR WHOM BEGGING WAS TOO DEMEAN ING A PROSPECT 4HE "UONOMINI COMMISSIONED FROM 'HIRLANDAIOS WORKSHOP A SEQUENCE OF FRESCOES SHOWING VARIOUS ALTRUISTIC ACTS AND SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF 3T -ARTIN AND THE RESULT IS AS ABSORBING A RECORD OF DAILY LIFE IN 2ENAISSANCE &LORENCE AS THE 'HIRLANDAIO FRESCOES IN 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA SEE P /PPOSITE 3AN -ARTINO SOARS THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY 4ORRE DELLA #ASTAGNA MEETING PLACE OF THE CITYS PRIORI BEFORE THEY DECAMPED TO THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO 4HIS IS ONE OF THE MOST STRIKING REMNANTS OF &LORENCES MEDIEVAL TOWNSCAPE WHEN OVER SUCH TOWERS ROSE BETWEEN THE RIVER AND THE $UOMO MANY OF THEM OVER TWO HUNDRED FEET HIGH
&LORENCES FLOODS
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4HE CALAMITY OF THE .OVEMBER mOOD HAD PLENTY OF PRECEDENTS 'REAT AREAS OF THE CITY WERE DESTROYED BY A mOOD IN A DISASTER EXACERBATED BY PLAGUE AND FAMINE )N THE #ARRAIA AND 4RÖNITA BRIDGES WERE CARRIED AWAY ON A TORRENT SO HEAVY THAT hA GREAT PART OF THE CITY OF &LORENCE BECAME A LAKEv 4HE mOOD OF WAS PRECEDED BY A FOUR DAY STORM WITH THUNDER AND RAIN SO VIOLENT THAT ALL THE CITYS BELLS WERE TOLLED TO DRIVE AWAY THE EVIL SPIRITS THOUGHT TO BE BEHIND THE TEMPEST BRIDGES WERE DEMOLISHED AND THE ORIGINAL -ARZOCCO n A lGURE OF -ARS RATHER THAN THE LEONINE lGURE THAT INHERITED ITS NAME n WAS CARRIED AWAY BY THE RAGING !RNO #OSIMO ) INSTITUTED AN URBAN BEAUTIlCATION SCHEME AFTER A DELUGE PUT NEARLY TWENTY FEET OF MUDDY WATER OVER PARTS OF THE CITY IN ON THAT OCCASION THE 4RÖNITA BRIDGE WAS HIT SO SUDDENLY THAT EVERYONE ON IT WAS DROWNED EXCEPT FOR TWO CHILDREN WHO WERE LEFT STRANDED ON A PILLAR IN MIDSTREAM WHERE FOR TWO DAYS THEY WERE FED BY MEANS OF A ROPE SLUNG OVER FROM THE BANK )T RAINED CONTINUOUSLY FOR FORTY DAYS PRIOR TO .OVEMBER WITH NEARLY HALF A METRE OF RAIN FALLING IN THE PRECEDING TWO DAYS 7HEN THE WATER PRESSURE IN AN UPSTREAM RESERVOIR THREATENED TO BREAK THE DAM IT WAS DECIDED TO OPEN THE SLUICES 4HE ONLY PEOPLE TO BE WARNED ABOUT THE RAPIDLY RISING LEVEL OF THE RIVER WERE THE JEW ELLERS OF THE 0ONTE 6ECCHIO WHOSE PRIVATE NIGHTWATCHMAN PHONED THEM IN THE SMALL HOURS OF THE MORNING WITH NEWS THAT THE BRIDGE WAS STARTING TO SHAKE 0OLICE WATCH ING THE SHOPKEEPERS CLEARING THEIR DISPLAYS WERE ASKED WHY THEY WERENT SPREADING THE ALARM 4HEY REPLIED h7E HAVE RECEIVED NO ORDERSv 7HEN THE BANKS OF THE !RNO lNALLY BROKE DOWN A mASH mOOD DUMPED AROUND TONNES OF WATER AND MUD ON THE STREETS MOVING WITH SUCH SPEED THAT PEOPLE WERE DROWNED IN THE UNDERPASS OF 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA TRAIN STATION )N ALL &LORENTINES WERE KILLED SHOPS PUT OUT OF BUSINESS MORE THAN HOMES MADE UNINHABITABLE SOME CARS WRECKED AND THOUSANDS OF WORKS OF ART DAMAGED MANY OF THEM RUINED BY HEATING OIL mUSHED OUT OF BASEMENTS 7ITHIN HOURS AN IMPROMPTU ARMY OF RESCUE WORKERS HAD BEEN FORMED n MANY OF THEM STUDENTS n TO HAUL PICTURES OUT OF SLIME lLLED CHURCHES AND GATHER FRAGMENTS OF PAINT IN PLASTIC BAGS $ONATIONS CAME IN FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD BUT THE TASK WAS SO IMMENSE THAT THE RESTORATION OF MANY PIECES IS STILL UNACCOMPLISHED 3OME ROOMS IN THE ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM FOR EXAMPLE HAVE REMAINED CLOSED SINCE THE mOOD AND MANY POSSESSIONS OF THE .ATIONAL ,IBRARY ARE STILL IN THE LABORATORIES )N TOTAL AROUND TWO THIRDS OF THE PAINTINGS DAMAGED IN THE mOOD ARE NOW ON VIEW AGAIN AND TWO MASSIVE LABORATORIES n ONE FOR PAINTINGS AND ONE FOR STONEWORK n ARE OPERATING FULL TIME IN &LORENCE DEVELOPING RESTORATION TECHNIQUES THAT ARE OFTEN TAKEN UP BY GALLERIES ALL OVER THE WORLD 4ODAY THROUGHOUT THE CITY YOU CAN SEE SMALL MARBLE PLAQUES WITH A RED LINE SHOWING THE LEVEL THE mOODWATERS REACHED ON THAT DREADFUL DAY IN
4HE INTERIOR
4HE CHURCHS FACADE IS A NEO 'OTHIC SHAM WHICH DATES FROM AS RECENTLY AS 4HE CHURCH HAD LANGUISHED FOR CENTURIES WITHOUT A SUITABLE FRONTAGE A SITUATION REMEDIED WHEN SOMEONE CLAIMED TO HAVE DISCOVERED LONG LOST PLANS FOR THE hORIGINALv FACADE IN TRUTH THE SCHEME WAS NO MORE THAN A GIANT SIZED PASTICHE OF /RCAGNAS TABERNACLE IN /RSANMICHELE 4HE VAST INTERIOR IS INlNITELY MORE SATISFYING (URRY TOWARDS THE HIGH ALTAR AND THE 'IOTTO PAINTED CHAPELS TO ITS RIGHT IF ALL YOU WANT TO SEE ARE THE CHURCHS MOST FAMOUS WORKS OF ART /THERWISE TAKE A MORE MEASURED WALK DOWN THE SOUTH AISLE !GAINST THE lRST PILLAR STANDS THE TOMB OF &RANCESCO .ORI ONE OF THE VICTIMS OF THE 0AZZI #ONSPIRACY SEE P SURMOUNTED BY !NTONIO 2OSSELLINOS LOVELY RELIEF OF THE -ADONNA DEL ,ATTE
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BEFORE $ANTE lNALLY RECEIVED THIS BLAND NINETEENTH CENTURY TRIBUTE -ICHELANGE LO HAD OFFERED TO CARVE THE POETS TOMB n A TANTALIZING THOUGHT !GAINST THE THIRD PILLAR THERES A MARVELLOUS PULPIT BY "ENEDETTO DA -AIANO ADORNED WITH NICHE STATUETTES OF THE VIRTUES AND SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF 3T &RANCIS #ANOVAS MONUMENT TO !LlERI COMMEMORATES AN EIGHTEENTH CENTURY )TAL IAN POET AND DRAMATIST AS FAMOUS FOR HIS AMATORY LIAISONS AS HIS LITERARY ENDEAV OURS 4HE TOMB WAS PAID FOR BY HIS MISTRESS THE SO CALLED #OUNTESS OF !LBANY ERSTWHILE WIFE OF #HARLES %DWARD 3TUART AKA "ONNIE 0RINCE #HARLIE 3HE MODELLED FOR THE TOMBS MAIN lGURE AN ALLEGORY OF )TALY BEREAVED BY !LlERIS DEATH 4HE NEARBY TOMB OF -ACHIAVELLI CARVED YEARS AFTER HIS DEATH IS UNEXCEPTIONAL SAVE FOR ITS FAMOUS INSCRIPTION 4ANTO NOMINI NULLUM PAR ELOGIUM h.O PRAISE CAN BE HIGH ENOUGH FOR SO GREAT A NAMEv 4HE SIDE DOOR AT THE END OF THE AISLE IS mANKED BY $ONATELLOS GILDED STONE RELIEF OF THE !NNUNCIATION "EYOND THE DOOR IS "ERNARDO 2OSSELLINOS MUCH IMITATED TOMB OF ,EONAR DO "RUNI CHANCELLOR OF THE 2EPUBLIC HUMANIST SCHOLAR AND AUTHOR OF THE lRST HISTORY OF THE CITY n HIS EFlGY IS HOLDING A COPY "RUNI WHO DIED IN WAS THE lRST MAN OF ANY GREAT EMINENCE TO BE BURIED IN THE CHURCH WHICH IS A LITTLE SURPRISING GIVEN HIS PREDOMINANTLY HUMANIST RATHER THAN #HRISTIAN BELIEFS 4HE TOMB ONE OF THE MOST INmUENTIAL OF THE 2ENAISSANCE MAKES THE POINT FOR THE lRST TIME THE HUMAN lGURE DOMINATES WITH THE -ADONNA AND #HILD BANISHED TO A PERIPHERAL POSITION HIGH IN THE LUNETTE 4HE #ASTELLANI "ARONCELLI AND -EDICI CHAPELS AND THE SACRISTY
4HE #APPELLA #ASTELLANI AT THE END OF THE SOUTH AISLE IS STRIKINGLY IF PATCHILY COVERED IN FRESCOES BY !GNOLO 'ADDI AND HIS PUPILS 4O THE RIGHT ARE DEPICTED THE STORIES OF 3T *OHN THE "APTIST AND 3T .ICHOLAS OF "ARI THE LATTER THE PATRON SAINT OF CHILDREN HES THE 3T .ICHOLAS OF 3ANTA #LAUS FAME IS SHOWN SAVING THREE GIRLS FROM PROSTITUTION AND REVIVING THREE MURDERED BOYS 4HE LEFT WALL FEATURES EPISODES FROM THE LIVES OF 3T *OHN AND 3T !NTONY !BBOT THE LATTER GAVE AWAY HIS WEALTH MAKING HIM A FAVOURITE OF THE POVERTY INSPIRED &RANCISCANS !LSO NOTE THE CHAPELS lNE TABERNACLE THE WORK OF -INO DA &IESOLE AND ITS FUNERARY MONUMENTS INCLUDING THAT OF THE #OUNTESS OF !LBANY 4HE ADJOINING #APPELLA "ARONCELLI WAS DECORATED BY !GNOLOS FATHER 4AD DEO A LONG TIME ASSISTANT TO 'IOTTO 4ADDEOS CYCLE LARGELY DEVOTED TO THE LIFE OF THE 6IRGIN FEATURES ONE OF THE lRST NIGHT SCENES IN 7ESTERN PAINTING 4HE !NNUNCIATION TO THE 3HEPHERDS IN WHICH THE ANGEL APPEARS AMID A BLAZE OF LIGHT THATS BELIEVED TO BE A REPRESENTATION OF (ALLEYS #OMET 4HE MAIN ALTAR PAINTING THE #ORONATION OF THE 6IRGIN MAY ALSO BE BY 4ADDEO THOUGH AN INCREASING NUMBER OF CRITICS NOW ATTRIBUTE IT TO HIS MASTER 'IOTTO 4HE CORRIDOR TO THE RIGHT ENDS AT THE #APPELLA -EDICI USUALLY OPEN ONLY FOR THOSE TAKING -ASS )TS NOTABLE FOR THE LARGE TERRACOTTA ALTARPIECE BY !NDREA DELLA 2OBBIA AND A NINETEENTH CENTURY FORGED $ONATELLO THE CHAPEL LIKE THE CORRIDOR WAS DESIGNED BY -ICHELOZZO THE -EDICIS PET ARCHITECT &INELY CARVED WOODEN DOORS LEAD OFF THE CORRIDOR INTO THE BEAUTIFULLY PANELLED 3ACRISTY WHERE THE HIGHLIGHT IS A MARVELLOUS #RUCIlXION BY 4ADDEO 4HE TINY #APPELLA 2INUCCINI SEPARATED FROM THE SACRISTY BY A GRILLE IS IMPRESSIVELY COVERED WITH FRESCOES ON THE LIFE OF THE 6IRGIN ON THE LEFT AND 3T -ARY -AGDALENE ON THE RIGHT THE ,OMBARD ARTIST RESPONSIBLE 'IOVANNI DA -ILANO WAS ONE OF 'IOTTOS MOST ACCOMPLISHED FOLLOWERS 4HE EAST CHAPELS 'IOTTOS FRESCOES
"OTH THE #APPELLA 0ERUZZI AND THE #APPELLA "ARDI n THE TWO CHAPELS ON THE RIGHT OF THE CHANCEL n ARE ENTIRELY COVERED WITH FRESCOES BY 'IOTTO WITH
!S YOU WALK BACK TOWARDS THE ENTRANCE ALONG THE NORTH AISLE THE lRST PILLAR YOU PASS FEATURES A GHASTLY NINETEENTH CENTURY MONUMENT TO ,EON "ATTISTA !LBERTI THE 2ENAISSANCE ARCHITECT AND ARTISTIC THEORIST WHOSE WRITINGS DID MUCH TO INmUENCE 2OSSELLINO IN HIS CARVING OF THE "RUNI TOMB ACROSS THE NAVE 4HE "RUNI TOMB IN TURN INmUENCED THE OUTSTANDING TOMB OF #ARLO -ARSUP PINI BY $ESIDERIO DA 3ETTIGNANO -ARSUPPINIS LACK OF #HRISTIAN QUALIlCATIONS FOR SO PROMINENT A CHURCH BURIAL IS EVEN MORE STRIKING THAN "RUNIS HES SAID TO HAVE DIED WITHOUT TAKING CONFESSION OR COMMUNION 4HE TOMB INSCRIPTION OPENS WITH THE WORDS h3TAY AND SEE THE MARBLES WHICH ENSHRINE A GREAT SAGE ONE FOR WHOSE MIND THERE WAS NOT WORLD ENOUGHv ! 0IETÌ BY THE YOUNG "RONZINO A FUTURE -ANNERIST STAR BRIEmY DISTURBS THE PARADE OF TOMBS THAT FOLLOWS ! SURPRISINGLY MODEST PAVEMENT SLAB MARKS THE TOMB OF ,ORENZO 'HIBERTI n THE ARTIST RESPONSIBLE FOR THE "APTISTERYS MAR VELLOUS DOORS n AND HIS SON 6ITTORIO 4HE TOMB OF 'ALILEO IS MORE OSTENTATIOUS THOUGH IT WAS SOME NINETY YEARS AFTER HIS DEATH IN THAT THE hHERETICv SCIEN TIST WAS DEEMED WORTHY OF A #HRISTIAN BURIAL IN &LORENCES PANTHEON 4HE #APPELLA DEI 0AZZI
4HE DOOR IN THE SOUTH RIGHT AISLE LEADS THROUGH INTO THE CHURCHS 0RIMO #HI OSTRO &IRST #LOISTER SITE OF "RUNELLESCHIS #APPELLA DEI 0AZZI THE EPITOME
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4HE NORTH AISLE
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SOME ASSISTANCE IN THE LATTER 4HEIR DETERIORATION WAS PARTLY CAUSED BY 'IOTTOS HAVING PAINTED SOME OF THE PICTURES ONTO DRY PLASTER RATHER THAN THE WET PLASTER EMPLOYED IN TRUE FRESCO TECHNIQUE BUT THE VANDALISM OF LATER GENERATIONS WAS FAR MORE DESTRUCTIVE )N THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY THEY WERE COVERED IN WHITEWASH THEN THEY WERE HEAVILY RETOUCHED IN THE NINETEENTH RESTORATION IN THE S RETURNED THEM TO AS CLOSE TO THEIR ORIGINAL STATE AS WAS POSSIBLE 3CENES FROM THE LIVES OF 3T *OHN THE %VANGELIST AND 3T *OHN THE "APTIST COVER THE 0ERUZZI CHAPEL WHILE A BETTER PRESERVED CYCLE OF THE LIFE OF 3T &RANCIS lLLS THE "ARDI $ESPITE THE AREAS OF PAINT DESTROYED WHEN A TOMB WAS ATTACHED TO THE WALL THE &UNERAL OF 3T &RANCIS IS STILL A COMPOSITION OF EXTRAORDINARY IMPACT THE GRIEF STRICKEN MOURNERS SUGGESTING AN AFlNITY WITH THE LAMENTATION OVER THE BODY OF #HRIST n ONE OF THEM EVEN PROBES THE WOUND IN &RANCISS SIDE ECHOING THE GESTURE OF $OUBTING 4HOMAS 4HE /RDEAL BY &IRE SHOWING &RANCIS ABOUT TO DEMONSTRATE HIS FAITH TO THE SULTAN BY WALKING THROUGH lRE SHOWS 'IOTTOS MAS TERY OF UNDERSTATED DRAMA WITH THE SULTANS ENTOURAGE SKULKING OFF TO THE LEFT IN ANTICIPATION OF THE MONKS TRIUMPH /N THE WALL ABOVE THE CHAPELS ENTRANCE ARCH IS THE MOST POWERFUL SCENE OF ALL 3T &RANCIS 2ECEIVING THE 3TIGMATA IN WHICH THE POWER OF #HRISTS APPARITION SEEMS TO FORCE THE CHOSEN ONE TO HIS KNEES !GNOLO 'ADDI WAS RESPONSIBLE FOR THE DESIGN OF THE STAINED GLASS IN THE LANCET WINDOWS ROUND THE HIGH ALTAR AND FOR ALL THE CHANCEL FRESCOES WHICH DEPICT THE LEGEND OF THE 4RUE #ROSS n A COMPLICATED TALE TRACING THE WOOD OF THE #ROSS FROM ITS ORIGINS AS THE 4REE OF 0ARADISE SEE P 4HE VAST POLYPTYCH ON THE HIGH ALTAR IS A COMPOSITE OF PANELS BY SEVERAL ARTISTS 4HE #APPELLA "ARDI DI 6ERNIO WAS PAINTED BY -ASO DI "ANCO PERHAPS THE MOST INVENTIVE OF 'IOTTOS FOLLOWERS &OLLOWING TRADITION THE FRESCOES SHOW ING SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF 3AINT 3YLVESTER PORTRAY THE SAINT BAPTIZING %MPEROR #ONSTANTINE NOTWITHSTANDING THE FACT THAT 3YLVESTER DIED SOME TIME BEFORE THE EMPERORS BAPTISM 4HE SECOND #APPELLA "ARDI HOUSES A WOODEN CRUCIlX BY $ONATELLO SUPPOSEDLY CRITICIZED BY "RUNELLESCHI AS RESEMBLING A hPEASANT ON THE #ROSSv !CCORDING TO 6ASARI "RUNELLESCHI WENT OFF AND CREATED HIS OWN CRUCIlX FOR 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA TO SHOW $ONATELLO HOW IT SHOULD BE DONE SEE P
7HAT IS THE 2ENAISSANCE
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)N THE MIDDLE OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY 'IORGIO 6ASARI COINED THE TERM 2INASCENZA REBIRTH TO DESIGNATE AN EPOCH THAT STRETCHED FROM AROUND THE LIFETIME OF 'IOTTO TO THE ERA OF -ICHELANGELO )T WAS IN THE LATTER HALF OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY HOWEVER THAT THE TERM h2ENAISSANCEv ENTERED GENERAL USAGE IN THE WAKE OF THE WRITINGS OF THE &RENCH HISTORIAN *ULES -ICHELET AND n ABOVE ALL n *ACOB "URCKHARDT WHOSE BOOK 4HE #IVILIZATION OF THE 2ENAISSANCE IN )TALY PUBLISHED IN 'ERMAN IN AND IN %NG LISH TRANSLATION IN IS PERHAPS THE MOST INmUENTIAL SINGLE STUDY OF THE SUBJECT 4O HISTORIANS OF THIS PERIOD THE 2ENAISSANCE WAS SEEN AS A SINGULAR AND ALL PERVASIVE PHENOMENON IN WHICH THE REDISCOVERY OF ANCIENT CLASSICAL CULTURE GAVE IMPETUS TO A WHOLESALE REGENERATION OF %UROPEAN CIVILIZATION AFTER THE INTELLECTUAL IMPOVERISHMENT OF THE -IDDLE !GES 4HIS EPOCH WAS CHARACTERIZED ABOVE ALL BY ITS FOCUS ON HUMANITY AND THE EPICENTRE OF THIS EXPLOSION OF HUMANIST ART AND SCHOLARSHIP WAS &LORENCE 7HILST NOBODY DOUBTS THAT MANY OF THE ARTISTS WRITERS AND PATRONS OF 2ENAISSANCE )TALY BELIEVED THEMSELVES TO BE PARTICIPANTS IN THE CREATION OF A NEW SOCIETY ITS HIGHLY DEBATABLE THAT h2ENAISSANCE VALUESv REACHED DEEPLY INTO THE LIVES OF EVERYONE &OR THE GENERAL POPULACE LIFE CONTINUED TO BE hMEDIEVALv LONG AFTER THEIR MASTERS HAD TAKEN TO READING 0LATO THE BELIEF IN WITCHES FOR EXAMPLE SURVIVED FOR CENTURIES BEYOND THE SUPPOSED TRIUMPH OF HUMANISM !ND THE MATERIAL CIRCUMSTANCES OF EXISTENCE WERE LIT TLE CHANGED FOR MOST PEOPLE !GRICULTURE WAS STILL A PRECARIOUS BUSINESS AND THERE CAN HAVE BEEN FEW MORE DANGEROUS PERIODS IN )TALIAN HISTORY THAN THE SO CALLED h(IGH 2EN AISSANCEv n FROM TO THE PENINSULA WAS AN ALMOST CONTINUOUS BATTLEGROUND FOR THE MAJOR POWERS OF %UROPE AND AT THE END OF THIS PERIOD WITH (ABSBURGS AS THE DOMINANT FORCE MOST OF THE )TALIAN CITY STATES REDUCED TO THE RANKS OF BIT PLAYERS 4HE NOTION OF UNIQUENESS OF THE 2ENAISSANCE HAS MANY CRITICS TOO 7HERE EARLIER WRITERS TENDED TO USE THE TERMS h2ENAISSANCEv AND h)TALIAN 2ENAISSANCEv INTERCHANGEABLY HISTORIANS NOW SPEAK OF A VARIETY OF h2ENAISSANCESv #HARLEMAGNE IS SEEN AS HAVING PRESIDED OVER A h#AROLINGIAN 2ENAISSANCEv FOR EXAMPLE JUST AS THE COURT OF THE %MPEROR &REDERICK )) n IS SEEN BY SOME AS THE CENTRE OF ANOTHER EPISODE OF %UROPEAN CULTURAL REALIGNMENT
4HE PROBLEM OF BEGINNINGS !ND TO FOCUS PURELY ON THE )TALIAN 2ENAISSANCE THIS ITSELF BECOMES PROBLEMATIC WHEN ONE TRIES TO IDENTIFY ITS BEGINNINGS 'IOTTO n IS OFTEN TAKEN AS A STARTING POINT AND WHEN WE COMPARE HIS PAINTINGS TO THE ART OF THE h'OTHICv ERA IT DOES SEEM AS IF HE INTRODUCED A NEW REALISM AND DRAMA TO %UROPEAN ART (IS GREAT CONTEMPORARY $ANTE n WHO PRESENTS 'IOTTO AS AN INNOVATOR IN THE $IVINA #OMMEDIA APPEARS MODERN IN HIS USE OF VERNACULAR 4USCAN RATHER THAN ,ATIN /N THE OTHER HAND THE STERN THEOLOGY OF $ANTES MASTERPIECE STRIKES US AS BELONGING TO A DISTINCTLY PRE MODERN WORLD )TS TRUE THAT $ANTES IMMEDIATE SUCCESSORS 0ETRARCH n AND "OCCACCIO n n BOTH OF THEM 4USCANS n FEEL CLOSER TO US THAN HE DOES 0ETRARCHS LOVE POETRY HIS COLLECTING OF CLASSICAL MANUSCRIPTS AND HIS APPRECIATION OF LANDSCAPE FOR ITSELF IN HIS CELEBRATED DESCRIPTION OF HIS ASCENT OF -ONT 6ENTOUX MIGHT BE DESCRIBED AS MANIFESTA TIONS OF THE 2ENAISSANCE SPIRIT JUST AS HIS CORONATION AS POET LAUREATE IN 2OME IN CAN BE TAKEN AS AN INSTANCE OF THE 2ENAISSANCE CELEBRATION OF CREATIVE GENIUS 3IMILARLY "OCCACCIOS $ECAMERON HAS A CLAIM TO BE THE lRST EXAMPLE OF MODERN PROSE lCTION !ND YET IN THE VISUAL ARTS THERES NO PARALLEL TO "OCCACCIOS BAWDY SECULARISM INDEED IT CAN SEEM THAT PAINTING BARELY ADVANCED IN THE CENTURY AFTER 'IOTTO n CERTAINLY NOT ENOUGH TO SUPPORT THE IDEA THAT HIS WORK INITIATED A PROCESS OF UNSTOPPABLE MOMENTUM ! PARTIAL EXPLANATION OF THIS HIATUS IS THAT OUTBREAKS OF THE PLAGUE n REACHING A PEAK WITH THE "LACK $EATH WHICH STRUCK 4USCANY WITH PARTICULAR VEHEMENCE n CUT SHORT THE LIVES OF MANY ART ISTS AND RENDERED MANY COMMUNITIES TOO POOR TO COMMISSION NEW WORK )T WASNT UNTIL -ASACCIOS FRESCOES IN THE "RANCACCI CHAPEL n PAINTED A HUNDRED YEARS AFTER 'IOTTOS IN 3ANTA #ROCE n THAT )TALIAN ART COULD BE SAID TO HAVE TAKEN ITS NEXT LEAP FORWARD
4HE CASE OF &LORENCE
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)F ITS IMPOSSIBLE TO LOCATE WHERE THE 2ENAISSANCE BEGINS ITS INCONTESTABLY THE CASE THAT THE HIGH CULTURE OF &LORENCE AND MOST OF )TALY IN WAS RADICALLY DIFFERENT FROM THAT OF &URTHERMORE ITS INCONTROVERTIBLE THAT &LORENCE IN THE lFTEENTH CENTURY NURTURED MORE OF THESE hAVANT GARDEv lGURES THAN ANY OTHER CITY IN )TALY ! HIGHLY SELECTIVE ROLL CALL OF ARTISTS AND ARCHITECTS SUFlCES TO MAKE THE POINT -ASAC CIO &ILIPPO AND &ILIPPINO ,IPPI $ONATELLO "RUNELLESCHI 'HIBERTI !LBERTI -ICH ELOZZO 0IERO DI #OSIMO ,UCA DELLA 2OBBIA 5CCELLO 6ERROCCHIO &RA !NGELICO -ICHELANGELO ,EONARDO DA 6INCI AND "OTTICELLI "UT WHAT WERE THE CIRCUMSTANCES THAT MADE &LORENCE THE PRE EMINENT CENTRE OF CREATIVITY ! PRIMARY FACTOR WAS OF COURSE THE CITYS WEALTH "UOYED BY REVENUES FROM BANKING AND MANUFACTURE THE &LORENTINE UPPER CLASSES HAD PLENTY OF SURPLUS CASH WITH WHICH TO FUND THE ACCUMULATION OF LIBRARIES AND ART COLLECTIONS AND TO EMPLOY THE MOST hADVANCEDv ARTISTS AS A MEANS OF ADVERTISING THE PROSPERITY NOT JUST OF THEIR INDIVIDUAL FAMILIES BUT OF A CITY WHICH BY THE START OF THE lFTEENTH CENTURY WAS ESTABLISHED AS THE PREVAILING POWER IN 4USCANY #OMPETING AGAINST EACH OTHER IN DISPLAYS OF EDU CATED TASTE CLANS SUCH AS THE 3TROZZI THE -EDICI THE 2UCELLAI AND THE 4ORNABUONI WERE FURTHERING A &LORENTINE SELF IMAGE THAT CAN BE TRACED BACK AT LEAST AS FAR AS 'IOVANNI 6ILLANI n AUTHOR OF A TWELVE VOLUME HISTORY OF THE CITY WRITTEN IN 4USCAN IN WHICH HE WROTE THAT &LORENCE hTHE DAUGHTER AND OFFSPRING OF 2OME IS ON THE INCREASE AND DESTINED TO DO GREAT THINGSv %VEN BEFORE 6ILLANI &LORENCE HAD SOMETHING OF A HUMANIST TRADITION $ANTES TEACHER "RUNETTO ,ATINI Cn FOR INSTANCE STUDIED !RISTOTLE AND #ICERO WROTE IN THE VERNACULAR BOTH )TALIAN AND &RENCH AND WITH HIS ,IVRE DU TRÏSOR PRODUCED WHAT MIGHT BE CALLED THE lRST ENCYCLOPEDIA ! CENTURY LATER IT WAS THE CHANCELLOR OF &LORENCES UNI VERSITY THAT INVITED -ANUEL #HRYSOLORAS Cn TO TRAVEL FROM #ONSTANTINOPLE TO TEACH 'REEK n THE lRST TIME FOR SEVEN HUNDRED YEARS THAT THE LANGUAGE HAD BEEN TAUGHT IN )TALY #HRYSOLORAS TRANSLATED 0LATO AND (OMER WROTE ABOUT THE MONUMENTS OF 2OME AND "YZANTIUM AND NUMBERED AMONG HIS PUPILS ,EONARDO "RUNI n AUTHOR OF THE (IS TORY OF THE &LORENTINE 0EOPLE AND BOOKS ON $ANTE 0ETRARCH AND "OCCACCIO TRANSLATOR OF 0LATO AND !RISTOTLE AND THE lRST SCHOLAR TO DElNE HIS WORK AS STUDIA HUMANITATIS &ROM TO "RUNI WAS CHANCELLOR OF THE &LORENTINE 2EPUBLIC A POST IN WHICH HE WAS SUCCEEDED BY #ARLO -ARSUPPINI A SIMILARLY LEARNED MAN WHO IN ONE LECTURE MANAGED TO QUOTE FROM EVERY 'REEK AND ,ATIN WRITER THEN KNOWN )N THE #OUNCIL OF &LORENCE n CONVENED TO FORGE A RECONCILIATION BETWEEN THE 2OMAN AND %ASTERN CHURCHES n BROUGHT A HOST OF CLASSICAL SCHOLARS TO THE CITY SOME OF WHOM REMAINED IN &LORENCE TO BE JOINED AFTER BY OTHERS WHO mED FROM #ONSTANTINOPLE FOLLOWING ITS CONQUEST BY THE 4URKS 4HESE REFUGEES FURTHER ENRICHED AN ENVIRONMENT IN WHICH DEVELOPED SO MANY GREAT ARTISTS AND SUCH PRODIGIOUS PHI LOSOPHER SCHOLARS AS -ARSILIO &ICINO 0OLIZIANO AND 0ICO DELLA -IRANDOLA AUTHOR OF THE FAMOUS /RATION ON THE $IGNITY OF -AN ALL OF WHOM WERE MEMBERS OF THE -EDICI COURT "UT AGAIN ON THE SUBJECT OF THE REVOLUTIONARY NATURE OF THE &LORENTINE 2ENAISSANCE A NOTE OF CAUTION IS NEEDED 7HEREAS "OTTICELLIS "IRTH OF 6ENUS OR -ICHELANGELOS $AVID UNARGUABLY MARK THE ARRIVAL OF SOMETHING NEW CONTEMPORANEOUS PHILOSOPHY IS ESSENTIALLY AN ELABORATION OF THE WORK OF ANCIENT THINKERS n OF 0LATO IN PARTICULAR &OR ALL THEIR LEARNING &ICINO AND THE REST PRODUCED NOTHING TO EQUAL THE ORIGINALITY OF MEDIEVAL PHILOSOPHERS SUCH AS 4HOMAS !QUINAS OR $UNS 3COTUS &INALLY AS A CORRECTIVE TO THE IDEA OF A UNIFORM 2ENAISSANCE CULTURE A COUPLE OF DATES )N THE 5FlZI YOU CAN SEE 'ENTILE DA &ABRIANOS !DORATION OF THE -AGI AN EXQUISITE EXAMPLE OF )NTERNATIONAL 'OTHIC n IT WAS PAINTED IN JUST A YEAR BEFORE -ASACCIO BEGAN WORK ON THE "RANCACCI CHAPEL !ND .ICCOLO -ACCHIAVELLI A DIS TINCTLY MODERN THINKER BEGAN HIS POLITICAL CAREER IN THE YEAR THAT &LORENCE FELL UNDER THE SWAY OF 3AVONAROLA A MAN WHOSE WORLD VIEW WAS NEO MEDIEVAL
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OF THE LEARNED HARMONIOUS SPIRIT OF EARLY 2ENAISSANCE ARCHITECTURE "EGUN IN AS A CHAPTER HOUSE FOR 3ANTA #ROCE IT WAS COMMISSIONED BY !NDREA DE 0AZZI A MEMBER OF A BANKING DYNASTY THAT PLAYED A PROMINENT ROLE IN THE 0AZZI #ONSPIRACY SEE P )TS EXTERIOR REMAINED UNlNISHED AT THE TIME OF THE PLOT HOWEVER AND IT SEEMS NONE OF THE FAMILY WAS EVER BURIED HERE "RUNELLESCHI WORKED ON THE CHAPEL BETWEEN AND HIS DEATH IN THOUGH lNANCIAL PROBLEMS MEANT THAT WORK WAS ONLY COMPLETED IN THE S 'EOMETRICALLY PERFECT WITHOUT SEEMING PEDANTIC THE CHAPEL IS EXEMPLARY IN ITS PROPORTION AND IN THE WAY ITS DECORATIVE DETAIL HARMONIZES WITH THE DESIGN 4HE POLYCHROME LINING OF THE PORTICOS SHALLOW CUPOLA IS BY ,UCA DELLA 2OBBIA AS IS THE GARLAND OF FRUIT WHICH SURROUNDS THE 0AZZI FAMILY CREST 4HE FRIEZE OF ANGELS HEADS IS BY $ESIDERIO DA 3ETTIGNANO THOUGH ,UCA WAS RESPONSIBLE FOR THE TONDO OF 3T !NDREW OVER THE DOOR 4HE PORTICO ITSELF MAY BE THE WORK OF 'IULIANO DA -AIANO WHILE THE MAJESTIC WOODEN DOORS ARE THE PRODUCT OF A COLLABORATION BETWEEN THE BROTHERS -AIANO 'IULIANO AND "ENEDETTO )NSIDE THE TWELVE BLUE AND WHITE TONDI OF THE !POSTLES ARE BY ,UCA DELLA 2OBBIA WHILE THE FOUR VIVIDLY COLOURED TONDI OF THE %VANGELISTS IN THE UPPER ROUNDELS WERE PRODUCED IN THE DELLA 2OBBIA WORKSHOP POSSIBLY TO DESIGNS BY $ONATELLO AND "RUNELLESCHI 4HE -USEO DELL/PERA DI 3ANTA #ROCE AND THE INNER CLOISTER
4HE -USEO DELL/PERA DI 3ANTA #ROCE WHICH mANKS THE lRST CLOISTER HOUSES A MISCELLANY OF WORKS OF ART THE BEST OF WHICH ARE GATHERED IN THE 2EFETTORIO REFECTORY &OREMOST OF THESE IS #IMABUES FAMOUS #RUCIlXION VERY BADLY DAMAGED IN AND NOW THE EMBLEM OF THE HAVOC CAUSED BY THE mOOD /THER HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDE A DETACHED FRESCO OF THE ,AST 3UPPER CONSIDERED THE lNEST WORK BY 4ADDEO 'ADDI END WALL AND THE EARLIEST SURVIVING EXAMPLE OF THE MANY ,AST 3UPPERS #ENACOLI DOTTED AROUND THE CITY 4HIS THEME WAS OF OBVIOUS RELEVANCE GIVEN ITS POSITION WHICH n AS HERE n WAS INVARIABLY THE REFEC TORY WHERE MONKS GATHERED TO EAT %QUALLY COMPELLING IS $ONATELLOS ENORMOUS GILDED 3T ,OUIS OF 4OULOUSE SIX FRESCO FRAGMENTS BY /RCAGNA ON THE SIDE WALLS AND $OMENICO 6ENEZIANOS 33 *OHN AND &RANCIS ! SERIES OF ROOMS SPARSELY lLLED WITH VARIOUS DAMAGED FRAGMENTS LEADS YOU TOWARDS THE SPACIOUS )NNER #LOISTER ANOTHER LATE PROJECT BY "RUNELLESCHI #OMPLETED IN AFTER THE ARCHITECTS DEATH IT IS THE MOST PEACEFUL SPOT IN THE CENTRE OF &LORENCE ACHIEVING ITS ATMOSPHERE BY THE SLOW RHYTHM OF THE NARROW WIDELY SPACED COLUMNS
4HE -USEO (ORNE
/N THE SOUTH SIDE OF 3ANTA #ROCE DOWN BY THE RIVER AT 6IA DEI "ENCI STANDS ONE OF &LORENCES MORE RECONDITE MUSEUMS THE -USEO DELLA &ONDAZIONE (ORNE -ONn3AT AMnPM + )TS COLLECTION WAS LEFT TO THE STATE BY THE %NGLISH ART HISTORIAN (ERBERT 0ERCY (ORNE n WHO WAS INSTRUMENTAL IN RESCUING "OTTICELLI FROM NEGLECT WITH A PIONEERING BIOGRAPHY 4HE HALF A DOZEN OR SO ROOMS OF PAINTINGS SCULPTURES POTTERY FURNITURE AND OTHER DOMESTIC OBJECTS CONTAIN NO REAL MASTERPIECES BUT ARE DIVERTING ENOUGH IF YOUVE ALREADY DONE THE MAJOR COLLECTIONS 7ITH WINNING ECCENTRICITY THE EXHIBITS ARE LABELLED WITH NUMBERS ONLY AND YOU HAVE TO CARRY ROUND A KEY IN THE FORM OF A LONG LIST AVAILABLE FROM THE TICKET OFlCE 4HE MUSEUM BUILDING THE 0ALAZZO #ORSI !LBERTI IS WORTH MORE THAN A GLANCE EVEN IF YOURE NOT GOING INTO THE MUSEUM #OMMISSIONED BY THE #ORSI FAMILY ITS A TYPICAL MERCHANTS HOUSE OF THE PERIOD
4HE ENTICING NAME OF THE #ASA "UONARROTI LOCATED NORTH OF 3ANTA #ROCE AT 6IA 'HIBELLINA DAILY EXCEPT 4UES AMnPM + IS SOMEWHAT MIS LEADING -ICHELANGELO "UONARROTI CERTAINLY OWNED THREE HOUSES HERE IN AND PROBABLY LIVED ON THE SITE INTERMITTENTLY BETWEEN AND BUT THERE AFTER THE PROPERTIES ASSOCIATIONS WITH THE ARTIST BECOME INCREASINGLY TENUOUS /N -ICHELANGELOS DEATH FOR EXAMPLE THEY PASSED TO HIS NEPHEW ,EONARDO WHOSE SON CONVERTED THEM INTO A SINGLE PALAZZO LEAVING LITTLE TRACE OF THE EARLIER HOUSES THOUGH HE BUILT A GALLERY DEDICATED TO HIS GREAT UNCLE -ICHELANGELOS LAST DESCENDANT #OSIMO LEFT THE BUILDING TO THE CITY ON HIS DEATH IN 4ODAY THE HOUSE CONTAINS A SMART BUT LOW KEY MUSEUM BUT AMONG THE JUMBLE OF WORKS ONLY A HANDFUL ARE BY -ICHELANGELO MOST WERE CREATED SIMPLY IN HOM AGE TO THE GREAT MAN %TRUSCAN AND 2OMAN FRAGMENTS HAVE BEEN WRESTED BACK FROM THE ARCHEO LOGICAL MUSEUM TO LANGUISH ON THE GROUND mOOR ONCE MORE BUT THE TWO MAIN TREASURES ARE TO BE FOUND IN THE ROOM ON THE LEFT AT THE TOP OF THE STAIRS 4HE -ADONNA DELLA 3CALA Cn IS -ICHELANGELOS EARLIEST KNOWN WORK A DELICATE RELIEF CARVED WHEN HE WAS NO OLDER THAN 4HE SIMILARLY UNlNISHED "ATTLE OF THE #ENTAURS WAS CREATED SHORTLY AFTERWARDS WHEN THE BOY WAS LIVING IN THE -EDICI HOUSEHOLD )N THE ADJACENT ROOM YOULL lND THE ARTISTS WOODEN MODEL FOR THE FACADE OF 3AN ,ORENZO #LOSE BY IS THE LARGEST OF ALL THE SCULPTURAL MODELS ON DISPLAY THE TORSO OF A 2IVER 'OD A WORK IN WOOD AND WAX PROBABLY INTENDED FOR THE -EDICI CHAPEL IN 3AN ,ORENZO /THER ROOMS CONTAIN SMALL AND FRAGMENTARY PIECES POSSIBLY BY THE MASTER POSSIBLY COPIES OF WORKS BY HIM
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#ASA "UONARROTI AND THE 3ANT!MBROGIO DISTRICT
& , /2% .#% %AST OF THE CENTRE FROM THE "ARGELLO TO #AMPO DI -ARTE
WITH HUGE CELLARS IN WHICH WOOL WOULD HAVE BEEN DYED AND AN OPEN GALLERY ABOVE THE COURTYARD FOR DRYING THE lNISHED CLOTH 4HE PRIDE OF (ORNES COLLECTION WAS ITS DRAWINGS WHICH ARE NOW SALTED AWAY IN THE 5FlZI THOUGH A SMALL USUALLY CAPTIVATING DISPLAY IS MAINTAINED IN THE ROOM ON THE RIGHT OF THE GROUND mOOR /F WHATS LEFT THE PICK IN THE LEFT HAND DOWNSTAIRS ROOM IS A BAS RELIEF OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD ATTRIBUTED TO *ACOPO 3ANSOVINO /N THE lRST mOOR THE HIGHLIGHTS OF 2OOM ARE A WORN CRUCIlX BY &ILIPPINO ,IPPI PART OF A PREDELLA WITH A TINY AGE BOWED PANEL OF 3T *ULIAN BY -ASACCIO A DARK $EPOSITION BY 'OZZOLI HIS LAST DOCUMENTED WORK AND A GROUP OF SAINTS BY 0IETRO ,ORENZETTI 4HE NEXT ROOM CONTAINS THE COLLECTIONS BIG DRAW 'IOTTOS 3T 3TEPHEN A FRAGMENT FROM A POLYPTYCH FOLLOWED IN 2OOM BY "ECCAFUMIS (OLY &AMILY SHOWN IN ITS ORIGINAL FRAME 4HE WOODEN lGURE OF 3T *EROME NEARBY IS BY 6ERROCCHIO /NE OF THE MAIN EXHIBITS ON THE SECOND mOOR IS A PIECE OF LITTLE ARTISTIC MERIT BUT GREAT HISTORICAL INTEREST A COPY OF PART OF ,EONARDOS "ATTLE OF !NGHIARI ONCE FRESCOED ON A WALL OF THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO SEE P (ERE TOO ARE FURTHER WORKS BY SUCH BIG NAMES AS &ILIPPO AND &IL IPPINO ,IPPI 3IMONE -ARTINI AND "ECCAFUMI AS WELL AS SOME LOVELY PIECES OF FURNITURE
3ANT!MBROGIO THE MARKETS AND THE CHURCH
4WO OF &LORENCES MARKETS LIE WITHIN A FEW MINUTES STROLL OF THE #ASA "UONAR ROTI 4O THE NORTH THE 0IAZZA DEI #IOMPI IS THE VENUE FOR THE -ERCATO DELLE 0ULCI OR &LEA -ARKET SUMMER -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM WINTER -ONn 3AT AMnPM nPM ALSO OPEN SAME HOURS ON LAST 3UN OF MONTH -UCH OF THE JUNK MAINTAINS THE CITYS REPUTATION FOR INmATED PRICES THOUGH YOU CAN
& , /2% .#%
\ %AST OF THE CENTRE FROM THE "ARGELLO TO #AMPO DI -ARTE
lND A FEW INTERESTING ITEMS AT MODEST COST n OLD POSTCARDS POSTERS AND SO ON 6ASARIS ,OGGIA DEL 0ESCE GIVES THE SQUARE A TOUCH OF STYLE BUILT FOR THE lSHMONGERS OF THE -ERCATO 6ECCHIO IN WHAT IS NOW 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA IT WAS DISMANTLED WHEN THAT SQUARE WAS LAID OUT AND REBUILT HERE IN ! SHORT DISTANCE TO THE EAST OUT OF THE ORBIT OF NEARLY ALL TOURISTS IS THE -ERCATO DI 3ANT!MBROGIO -ONn3AT AMnPM A SMALLER TATTIER BUT EVEN MORE ENJOYABLE VERSION OF THE 3AN ,ORENZO FOOD HALL 4HE TAVOLA CALDA SNACKS AND MEALS STALL HERE IS ONE OF &LORENCES LUNCHTIME BARGAINS AND n AS AT 3AN ,ORENZO n THE STALLS BRING THEIR PRICES DOWN IN THE LAST HOUR OF TRADING .EARBY 3ANT!MBROGIO DAILY AMnPM nPM IS ONE OF &LORENCES OLDER CHURCHES HAVING BEEN DOCUMENTED IN THOUGH REBUILDING OVER THE CENTURIES MEANS THAT IT IS NOW SOMEWHAT BLAND IN APPEARANCE )NSIDE THE MOST COMPELLING FEATURE IS THE #APPELLA DEL -IRACOLO THE CHAPEL TO THE LEFT OF THE HIGH ALTAR AND ITS TABERNACLE n BY -INO DA &IESOLE AN ACCOMPLISHED SCULPTOR WHOSE NAME CROPS UP TIME AND AGAIN ACROSS 4USCANY 4HIS WAS ONE OF -INOS LAST WORKS n HE DIED IN n MAKING IT lTTING THAT HE SHOULD BE BURIED CLOSE BY IN A TOMB MARKED BY A PAVEMENT SLAB AT THE CHAPEL ENTRANCE !NOTHER GREAT ARTIST THE MULTI TALENTED 6ERROCCHIO WHO DIED IN IS BURIED IN THE FOURTH CHAPEL 4HE NARRATIVE FRESCO ALONGSIDE -INOS TABERNACLE ALLUDES TO THE MIRACLE THAT GAVE THE #APPELLA DEL -IRACOLO ITS NAME 4HE WORK OF #OSIMO 2OSSELLI IT DESCRIBES THE DISCOVERY AND DISPLAY OF A CHALICE FULL OF BLOOD IN 4HE &LORENTINES BELIEVED THE CHALICE SAVED THEM FROM AMONG OTHER THINGS THE EFFECTS OF A PLAGUE OUTBREAK IN 4HE PAINTING IS FULL OF PORTRAITS OF 2OSSELLIS CONTEMPORARIES MAKING IT ANOTHER OF &LORENCES VIVID PIECES OF 2ENAISSANCE SOCIAL REPORTAGE 2OSSELLI HIMSELF IS THE lGURE IN THE BLACK BERET AT THE EXTREME LEFT OF THE PICTURE 4HE SYNAGOGUE 3ANTA -ARIA -ADDALENA DEI 0AZZI AND THE %NGLISH #EMETERY
4HE ENORMOUS DOMED BUILDING RISING TO THE NORTH OF 3ANT!MBROGIO CHURCH IS THE 3YNAGOGUE THE GHETTO ESTABLISHED IN THIS DISTRICT BY #OSIMO ) WAS NOT DEMOLISHED UNTIL THE MID NINETEENTH CENTURY WHICH IS WHEN THE PRESENT -OORISH STYLE SYNAGOGUE WAS BUILT )T CONTAINS A SMALL MUSEUM THAT CHARTS THE HISTORY OF &LORENCES *EWISH POPULATION !PRILn/CT 3UNn4HURS AMnPM &RI AMnPM .OVn-ARCH 3UNn4HURS AMnPM &RI AMnPM + 7EST OF THE SYNAGOGUE ON "ORGO 0INTI STANDS THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA -ADDALENA DEI 0AZZI -ONn3AT nAM nPM nPM 3UN nAM nPM NAMED AFTER A &LORENTINE NUN WHO WAS FAMED FOR HER RELIGIOUS ECSTASIES WHEN POSSESSED BY THE HOLY SPIRIT SHE WOULD SPEW WORDS AT SUCH A RATE THAT A TEAM OF EIGHT NOVICES WAS NEEDED TO TRANSCRIBE HER INSPIRED DICTATION 3HE WAS ALSO PRONE TO POURING BOILING WAX OVER HER ARMS AND WAS FOND OF RECLINING NAKED ON A BED OF THORNS 4HIS UNmINCHING PIETY WAS MUCH HONOURED IN #OUNTER 2EFORMATION &LORENCE WHEN -ARIA DE -EDICI WENT OFF TO MARRY (ENRY )6 OF &RANCE -ARIA -ADDALENA TRANSMITTED THE NEWS THAT THE 6IRGIN EXPECTED HER TO RE ADMIT THE *ESUITS TO &RANCE AND EXTERMINATE THE (UGUENOTS WHICH SHE DULY DID &OUNDED IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY BUT KITTED OUT IN "AROQUE STYLE THE CHURCH IS NOT ITSELF MUCH OF AN ATTRACTION BUT ITS CHAPTERHOUSE n REACHED BY A TORTUOUS SUBTERRANEAN PASSAGEWAY THATS ACCESSED FROM THE TOP OF THE RIGHT AISLE n IS DECO RATED WITH A RADIANT 0ERUGINO FRESCO OF THE #RUCIlXION + !S ALWAYS WITH 0ERUGINO THERE IS NOTHING TROUBLING HERE THE #RUCIlXION BEING DEPICTED NOT AS AN AGONIZING DEATH BUT RATHER AS THE NECESSARY PRELUDE TO THE 2ESURRECTION .ORTH OF THE 0AZZI CHURCH AT THE END OF "ORGO 0INTI IS THE %NGLISH #EM
ETERY AT 0IAZZA $ONATELLO DAILY AMnNOON nPM .OW A FUNERARY TRAFlC ISLAND THIS PATCH OF GARDEN IS THE RESTING PLACE OF %LIZABETH "ARRETT "ROWNING AND A NUMBER OF CONTEMPORANEOUS ARTISTIC "RITS AMONG THEM 7ALTER 3AVAGE ,ANDOR AND !RTHUR (UGH #LOUGH
#RISIS AND REVIVAL AT #AMPO DI -ARTE )N RECENT YEARS THERE HAVE BEEN SOME TOUGH TIMES FOR &IORENTINA FOOTBALL CLUB n KNOWN AS THE 6IOLA AFTER THE DISTINCTIVE VIOLET COLOUR OF THEIR SHIRTS &ANS STILL SHUD DER AT THE MEMORY OF WHEN THE GREAT 2OBERTO "AGGIO WAS TRANSFERRED n FOR WHAT WAS THEN A WORLD RECORD FEE n TO *UVENTUS AMID SCENES OF FERVENT PROTEST )N WITH !RGENTINIAN STRIKER 'ABRIEL "ATISTUTA AKA h"ATIGOLv ATTRACTING THE SORT OF MORBID AFFECTION THAT "AGGIO ONCE COMMANDED &IORENTINA WON THE )TALIAN CUP AND THEY CAME CLOSE TO A LEAGUE CHAMPIONSHIP IN lNISHING THIRD "UT THEN "ATIGOL WAS LURED TO 2OMA SPARKING DEMONSTRATIONS OF SUCH VIOLENCE THAT THE CLUBS OWNER 46 AND lLM MAGNATE 6ITTORIO #ECCHI 'ORI REQUIRED POLICE PROTECTION 2OMA PROMPTLY RUBBED SALT INTO THE WOUND BY BECOMING CHAMPIONS OF 3ERIE ! )TALYS TOP DIVISION BUT FAR WORSE WAS TO COME IN WHEN &IORENTINA BECAME THE MOST SPECTACULAR CASUALTY OF THE lNANCIAL CRISIS THAT ENGULFED WHAT USED TO BE THE WORLDS WEALTHIEST LEAGUE &OR MANY YEARS THE CLUBS IN 3ERIE ! HAD BEEN PAYING INSUPPORTABLE SALARIES ON THE BASIS OF PROJECTED 46 REVENUE WHILE CONSISTENTLY FAILING IN THE LUCRATIVE PAN %UROPEAN #HAMPIONS ,EAGUE "Y THE AGGREGRATE DEBTS OF THE 3ERIE ! TEAMS HAD PASSED THE EQUIVALENT OF MILLION AND FOR &IORENTINA THE SITUATION WAS ALMOST TERMINAL DECLARED BANKRUPT THEY WERE KICKED OUT OF 3ERIE ! AND DEMOTED TO 3ERIE #" n IN EFFECT THE BOTTOM OF THE HEAP 4HE ONCE GREAT CLUB WAS REFORMED UNDER THE NEW OWNERSHIP OF FOOTWEAR MILLION AIRE $IEGO DELLA 6ALLE 4HOUGH THE STAR PLAYERS PROMPTLY DEPARTED IN THE WAKE OF THE BANKRUPTCY THE TEAM QUICKLY FOUGHT ITS WAY BACK UP THE LEAGUES RETURNING TO 3ERIE ! FOR THE SEASON AND THE SUPPORT AT THE 3TADIO &RANCHI n STOKED BY THE FANS LONGSTANDING SENSE OF THEMSELVES AS THE UNLOVED OUTSIDERS OF )TALIAN FOOTBALL n HAS REMAINED AS INTENSE AS EVER SO TICKETS CAN BE HARD TO OBTAIN 4HEY COST FROM AROUND + AND CAN BE BOUGHT AT THE GROUND ITSELF OR THREE OR FOUR DAYS IN ADVANCE FROM THE 4OTO BOOTH ON THE WEST SIDE OF 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA &OR INFORMATION ON AVAILABILITY CALL 4HOUGH THE CLUB IS NOW SOLVENT AND SUCCESSFUL ONCE MORE THE WHIFF OF SCANDAL IS STILL IN THE AIR A PUBLIC PROSECUTOR IS CURRENTLY INVESTIGATING THE PREMATURE DEATHS OF THREE EX &IORENTINA PLAYERS BETWEEN AND AND OTHER CASES OF SEVERE ILL HEALTH INCLUDING HEART AND KIDNEY DISEASE AND CANCER AMONG MEN WHO APPEARED FOR THE CLUB IN THE S 4HE SUSPICION IS THAT PLAYERS MIGHT HAVE BEEN DOPED WITH STRENGTH BUILDING DRUGS ADMINISTERED IN THE FORM OF A COFFEE LIKE DRINK .ELLO 3ALTUTTI WHO PLAYED FOR THE 6IOLA FROM TO AND DIED OF A HEART ATTACK IN SPOKE TO AN INVESTIGATOR IN AFTER HIS lRST CARDIAC ARREST AND TOLD HIM h4HAT @COFFEE WAS VERY GOOD FOR US 7E ALL PLAYED VERY WELL AND PLAYED TWICE AS FAST AS USUAL 4HE DAY AFTER HOWEVER WE WERE ALL DESTROYEDv
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4WENTY MINUTES WALK BEYOND 0IAZZA "ECCARIA EAST OF 3ANT!MBROGIO OR BUS FROM THE STATION OR FROM 0IAZZA 3AN -ARCO IS THE EX CONVENT OF 3AN 3ALVI WHICH WAS REOPENED IN AFTER THE RESTORATION OF ITS MOST PRECIOUS POSSESSION THE ,AST 3UPPER BY !NDREA DEL 3ARTO 4UESn3UN AMnPM FREE !S A PRELUDE TO THIS PICTURE THERES A GALLERY OF BIG BUT OTHERWISE UNRE MARKABLE 2ENAISSANCE ALTARPIECES A GATHERING OF PICTURES BY VARIOUS DEL 3ARTO ACOLYTES AND THE BEAUTIFUL RELIEFS FROM THE TOMB OF 'IOVANNI 'UALBERTO FOUNDER
& , /2% .#% %AST OF THE CENTRE FROM THE "ARGELLO TO #AMPO DI -ARTE
3AN 3ALVI AND #AMPO DI -ARTE
OF THE 6ALLOMBROSAN ORDER TO WHOM THIS MONASTERY BELONGED 4HE TOMB WAS SMASHED UP BY #HARLES 6S TROOPS IN BUT THEY REFUSED TO DAMAGE THE ,AST 3UPPER WHICH IS STILL IN THE REFECTORY FOR WHICH IT WAS PAINTED ACCOMPANIED BY THREE DEL 3ARTO FRESCOES BROUGHT HERE FROM OTHER CHURCHES IN &LORENCE & , /2% .#%
4HE 3TADIO #OMUNALE
\ /LTRARNO
!S BElTS THIS MONUMENT STUFFED CITY &LORENCES FOOTBALL TEAM PLAY IN A STADIUM THATS LISTED AS A BUILDING OF CULTURAL SIGNIlCANCE THE 3TADIO #OMUNALE OR 3TADIO !RTEMIO &RANCHI AT #AMPO DI -ARTE BUS FROM THE TRAIN STA TION )T WAS DESIGNED BY 0IER ,UIGI .ERVI IN AS A CONSEQUENCE OF TWO DECISIONS TO CREATE A NEW FOOTBALL CLUB FOR &LORENCE AND TO STAGE THE 7ORLD #UP IN )TALY 4HE STADIUM WAS THE lRST MAJOR SPORTS VENUE TO EXPLOIT THE SHAPE MAKING POTENTIAL OF REINFORCED CONCRETE AND ITS SPIRAL RAMPS CANTILEVERED ROOF AND SLIM CENTRAL TOWER STILL MAKE MOST OTHER ARENAS LOOK DREARY &ROM THE SPECTATORS POINT OF VIEW HOWEVER ITS FAR FROM PERFECT FOR INSTANCE THE PECULIAR $ SHAPE OF THE STANDS n NECESSITATED BY THE STRAIGHT METRE SPRINT TRACK n MEANS THAT VISIBIL ITY FROM SOME PARTS OF THE GROUND IS AWFUL "UT THE ARCHITECTURAL IMPORTANCE OF .ERVIS WORK MEANT THAT WHEN &LORENCE WAS CHOSEN AS ONE OF THE HOSTS FOR THE 7ORLD #UP THERE COULD BE NO QUESTION OF SIMPLY BUILDING A REPLACEMENT AS WAS DONE BRILLIANTLY AT "ARI NOR OF RADICALLY ALTERING THE EXISTING ONE AS HAP PENED AT MOST GROUNDS -UCH OF THE SEVENTY BILLION LIRE SPENT ON THE REFURBISH MENT OF THE 3TADIO #OMUNALE WAS THUS SPENT ENSURING THAT THE IMPROVEMENTS DID NOT RUIN THE CLEAN MODERNISTIC LINES AND MOST OF THE EXTRA SPACE IN THE ALL SEATER STADIUM WAS CREATED BY LOWERING THE PITCH A COUPLE OF METRES BELOW ITS PREVIOUS LEVEL IN ORDER TO INSERT ANOTHER LAYER OF SEATS WHERE THE TRACK HAD BEEN
/LTRARNO
6ISITORS TO &LORENCE MIGHT PERCEIVE THE 2IVER !RNO AS A SIMPLE INTERRUPTION IN THE URBAN FABRIC BUT SOME &LORENTINES STILL TALK AS THOUGH A RAVINE RUNS THROUGH THEIR CITY .ORTH OF THE RIVER IS KNOWN AS !RNO DI QUÌ hOVER HEREv WHILE THE OTHER SIDE HEMMED IN BY A RIDGE OF HILLS THAT RISES A SHORT DISTANCE FROM THE RIVER IS !RNO DI LÌ hOVER THEREv -ORE FORMALLY ITS KNOWN AS THE /LTRARNO n LITERALLY hBEYOND THE !RNOv n A TERMINOLOGY WHICH HAS ITS ROOTS IN MEDIEVAL TIMES WHEN THE DISTRICT WAS NOT AS ACCESSIBLE AS THE NUMEROUS BRIDGES NOW MAKE IT 4RADITIONALLY AN ARTISANS QUARTER THE /LTRARNO HAS NONETHELESS ALWAYS CON TAINED MORE PROSPEROUS ENCLAVES MANY OF &LORENCES RULING FAMILIES CHOSE TO SETTLE IN THIS AREA AND NOWADAYS SOME OF THE CITYS PLUSHEST SHOPS LINE THE STREETS PARALLEL TO THE RIVERS SOUTHERN BANK &URTHER IN THE AREA AROUND 3ANTO 3PIRITO AND 0IAZZA DEL #ARMINE IS A GOOD PLACE TO COME IN THE EVENING AS ITS HERE YOULL lND SOME OF &LORENCES BEST BARS AND RESTAURANTS 7INDOW SHOPPING EAT ING AND DRINKING ARE NOT THE AREAS SOLE PLEASURES HOWEVER AS THE DISTRICT ALSO CONTAINS SEVERAL OF THE CITYS KEY SIGHTS MOST NOTABLY THE 0ALAZZO 0ITTI AND THE FRESCOES OF 3ANTA -ARIA DEL #ARMINE )N THE EASTERN PART OF /LTRARNO AS ON THE OPPOSITE BANK OF THE RIVER BLOCKS OF HISTORIC BUILDINGS WERE DESTROYED BY MINES LEFT BEHIND BY THE .AZIS IN 3OME CHARACTERFUL PARTS REMAIN HOWEVER IN PARTICULAR THE MEDIEVAL 6IA DE "ARDI AND ITS CONTINUATION 6IA 3AN .ICCOLÛ WHICH LEADS YOU TOWARDS 3AN -INIATO AL -ONTE ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL CHURCHES IN 4USCANY
4HE 0ONTE 6ECCHIO
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& , /2% .#% /LTRARNO
4HE DIRECT ROUTE FROM THE CITY CENTRE TO THE HEART OF THE /LTRARNO CROSSES THE !RNO VIA THE 0ONTE 6ECCHIO THE LAST IN A LINE OF BRIDGES AT THE RIVERS NAR ROWEST POINT THAT STRETCHES BACK TO %TRUSCAN AND 2OMAN TIMES 5NTIL THE CROSSING HERE WAS THE CITYS ONLY BRIDGE THOUGH THE VERSION YOU SEE TODAY DATES FROM BUILT TO REPLACE A WOODEN BRIDGE SWEPT AWAY BY mOODS TWELVE YEARS EARLIER 4HE NAME /LD "RIDGE WAS COINED TO DISTINGUISH IT FROM THE 0ONTE ALLA #ARRAIA THE BRIDGE RAISED IN /VER ITS ARCADES RUNS 6ASARIS CONCEALED PASSAGEWAY SEE P COMMISSIONED BY THE -EDICI IN TO ALLOW THEM TO PASS UNOBSERVED FROM THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO TO THE 0ALAZZO 0ITTI -UCH LATER IN ITS HISTORY THE 0ONTE 6ECCHIO WAS THE ONLY BRIDGE NOT MINED BY THE .AZIS IN AS THEY RETREATED BEFORE THE ADVANCING !MERICAN &IFTH !RMY &IELD -ARSHAL +ESSELRING IS SAID TO HAVE SPARED IT ON (ITLERS EXPRESS ORDERS -UCH OF THE REST OF THE CITY INCLUDING MEDIEVAL QUARTERS AT EITHER END OF THE BRIDGE WAS NOT SO LUCKY THE .AZIS RENEGED ON A PROMISE TO SPARE THE CITY BLOWING UP SWATHES OF OLD BUILDINGS TO HAMPER THE !LLIED ADVANCE 4HE BRIDGES PRESENT DAY SHOPS AND HAWKERS CAN COME AS A SHOCK BUT THE 0ONTE 6ECCHIO HAS ALWAYS BEEN LOADED WITH STORES LIKE THOSE NOW PROPPED OVER THE WATER 4HEIR EARLIEST INHABITANTS WERE BUTCHERS AND lSHMONGERS ATTRACTED TO THE SITE BY THE PROXIMITY OF THE RIVER WHICH PROVIDED A CONVEN IENT DUMPING GROUND FOR THEIR WASTE .EXT CAME THE TANNERS WHO USED THE RIVER TO SOAK THEIR HIDES BEFORE TANNING THEM WITH HORSES URINE 4HE CURRENT PLETHORA OF JEWELLERS DATES FROM WHEN &ERDINANDO ) EVICTED THE BUTCH ERS STALLS AND OTHER PRACTITIONERS OF WHAT HE CALLED hVILE ARTSv )N THEIR PLACE HE INSTALLED EIGHT JEWELLERS AND GOLDSMITHS ALSO TAKING THE OPPORTUNITY TO DOUBLE THE RENTS &LORENCE HAD LONG REVERED THE ART OF THE GOLDSMITH AND SEVERAL OF ITS MAJOR ARTISTS WERE SKILLED IN THE CRAFT 'HIBERTI $ONATELLO AND #ELLINI FOR EXAMPLE 4HE THIRD OF THIS TRIO IS CELEBRATED BY A BUST IN THE CENTRE OF THE BRIDGE THE NIGHT TIME MEETING POINT FOR &LORENCES UNRECONSTRUCTED HIPPIES AND LOCAL LADS ON THE PULL
3ANTA &ELÖCITA 3ANTA &ELÖCITA -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM MIGHT BE THE OLDEST CHURCH IN &LORENCE HAVING POSSIBLY BEEN FOUNDED IN THE SECOND CENTURY BY 'REEK OR 3YRIAN MERCHANTS PIONEERS OF #HRISTIANITY IN THE CITY )TS KNOWN FOR CERTAIN THAT A CHURCH EXISTED ON THE SITE BY THE lFTH CENTURY BY WHICH TIME IT HAD BEEN DEDICATED TO 3T &ELICITY AN EARLY 2OMAN MARTYR WHO IS OFTEN SHOWN IN 2ENAISSANCE PAINTINGS WITH HER SEVEN SONS EACH OF WHOM WAS EXECUTED IN FRONT OF HER FOR REFUSING TO RENOUNCE HIS FAITH THE SAINT HERSELF WAS EITHER BEHEADED OR THROWN INTO BOILING OIL .EW CHURCHES WERE BUILT ON THE SITE IN THE ELEVENTH AND FOURTEENTH CENTURIES WHILE IN 6ASARI ADDED AN ELABORATE PORTICO TO ACCOMMODATE THE CORRIDOIO LINKING THE 5FlZI AND 0ALAZZO 0ITTI A WINDOW FROM THE CORRIDOR LOOKS DIRECTLY INTO THE CHURCH !LL BUT THE FACADE WAS EXTENSIVELY REMODELLED BETWEEN AND 4HE INTERIOR DEMANDS A VISIT FOR THE AMAZING 0ONTORMO PAINTINGS IN THE #APPELLA #APPONI WHICH LIES TO THE RIGHT OF THE MAIN DOOR SURROUNDED BY IRRITATING RAILINGS 5NDER THE CUPOLA ARE FOUR TONDI OF THE %VANGELISTS PAINTED WITH HELP FROM HIS ADOPTIVE SON "RONZINO WHILE ON OPPOSITE SIDES OF THE WINDOW ON THE RIGHT WALL ARE THE 6IRGIN AND THE ANGEL OF 0ONTORMOS DELIGHT FULLY SIMPLE !NNUNCIATION THE ARRANGEMENT ALLUDING TO THE )NCARNATION AS THE MEANS BY WHICH THE ,IGHT CAME INTO THE WORLD 4HE LOW LEVEL OF LIGHT ADMIT TED BY THIS WINDOW WAS A DETERMINING FACTOR IN THE STARTLING COLOUR SCHEME OF
*ACOPO 0ONTORMO
& , /2% .#%
\ /LTRARNO
"ORN NEAR %MPOLI *ACOPO #ARRUCCI n n BETTER KNOWN AS 0ONTORMO AFTER HIS NATIVE VILLAGE n WAS SUCCESSIVELY A PUPIL OF ,EONARDO DA 6INCI 0IERO DI #OSIMO AND !NDREA DEL 3ARTO )T WAS THROUGH DEL 3ARTO THAT HE RECEIVED ONE OF HIS EARLIEST INDEPENDENT COMMISSIONS FOR 4HE 6ISITATION IN THE ATRIUM OF 3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATA IN &LORENCE WHERE DEL 3ARTO HAD ALREADY COMPLETED SEVERAL FRESCOES "EGUN WHEN 0ONTORMO WAS ONLY 4HE 6ISITATION DISPLAYS AN ECCENTRIC QUALITY n NOTABLY IN THE FOREGROUND lGURE OF THE SUNBATHING BOY n THAT WAS ALWAYS TO BE CHARACTERISTIC OF HIM AND EVIDENTLY APPEALED TO MANY IN THE EARLY S HE WAS HIRED BY THE -EDICI TO DECORATE PART OF THEIR VILLA AT 0OGGIO A #AIANO THEN EXECUTED A 0ASSION CYCLE FOR THE #ERTOSA TO THE SOUTH OF THE CITY AFTER WHICH HE PAINTED WHAT IS GENERALLY REGARDED AS HIS MASTERPIECE THE $EPOSITION IN 3ANTA &ELÖCITA 4HE MAJOR PROJECT OF HIS LATER YEARS A FRESCO CYCLE OF THE ,AST *UDGEMENT PAINTED IN THE CHANCEL OF 3AN ,ORENZO HAS BEEN TOTALLY DESTROYED BUT OTHER PAINTINGS BY HIM CAN BE SEEN IN THE 5FlZI AT #ARMIGNANO AND AT 3ANSEPOLCRO ! CRUCIAL lGURE IN THE EVOLUTION OF THE HYPER RElNED -ANNERIST STYLE 0ONTORMO WAS ALWAYS A STRANGELY INTENSE ARTIST THE $EPOSITION IS SAID TO HAVE TAKEN HIM THREE YEARS TO COMPLETE DURING WHICH TIME THE CHAPEL WAS WALLED UP SO THAT NOBODY COULD OBSERVE HIM AT WORK )N LATER LIFE HE SEEMS TO HAVE BECOME EVEN CRANKIER ! CHRONIC HYPOCHONDRIAC n HIS DIARY IS A TALLY OF THE STATE OF HIS KIDNEYS BOWEL DISORDERS AND OTHER ASSORTED AILMENTS n HE CAME TO lND THE COMPANY OF OTHERS ALMOST INTOLERABLE SPENDING MUCH OF HIS TIME IN A TOP mOOR ROOM THAT COULD BE REACHED ONLY BY A LADDER WHICH HE DREW UP BEHIND HIM /NE CONTEMPORARY WRITER ATTRIBUTED TO HIM AN ALL CON SUMING TERROR OF DEATH AND CALLED HIS ROOM A hBEASTS LAIRv WHILE ANOTHER INSISTED THAT HE KEPT CORPSES IN A TUB AS MODELS FOR A $ELUGE THAT HE WAS PAINTING n AN ANTISOCIAL RESEARCH PROJECT THAT ALLEGEDLY BROUGHT PROTESTS FROM THE NEIGHBOURS
0ONTORMOS WEIRDLY EROTIC $EPOSITION n ONE OF THE MASTERWORKS OF &LORENTINE -ANNERISM .OTHING IN THIS PICTURE IS CONVENTIONAL THE lGURE OF -ARY IS ON A DIFFERENT SCALE FROM HER ATTENDANTS THE lGURES BEARING #HRISTS BODY ARE ANDROGYNOUS lGURES CLAD IN BILLOWS OF ACIDIC SKY BLUE PUCE GREEN AND CANDY mOSS PINK DRAPERY AND THERES NO SIGN OF THE CROSS THE THIEVES SOLDIERS OR ANY OF THE OTHER SCENE SETTING DEVICES USUAL IN PAINTINGS OF THIS SUBJECT THE SOLE BACKGROUND DETAIL IS A SOLITARY GHOSTLY CLOUD 4HE BEARDED BROWN CLOAKED lGURE ON THE EXTREME RIGHT IS BELIEVED TO BE A SELF PORTRAIT OF THE ARTIST
4HE 0ALAZZO 0ITTI
"EYOND 3ANTA &ELÖCITA THE STREET OPENS OUT AT 0IAZZA 0ITTI FORECOURT OF THE LARG EST PALACE IN &LORENCE THE 0ALAZZO 0ITTI "ANKER AND MERCHANT ,UCA 0ITTI COM MISSIONED THE PALACE TO OUTDO HIS RIVALS THE -EDICI 7ORK STARTED AROUND POSSIBLY USING A DESIGN BY "RUNELLESCHI WHICH HAD BEEN REJECTED BY #OSIMO DE -EDICI FOR BEING TOO GRAND .O SOONER WAS THE PALACE COMPLETED HOWEVER THAN THE 0ITTIS FORTUNES BEGAN TO DECLINE AND BY THEY WERE FORCED TO SELL OUT TO THE -EDICI 4HE 0ITTI SUBSEQUENTLY BECAME THE -EDICIS BASE IN &LORENCE GROWING IN BULK UNTIL THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY WHEN IT ACHIEVED ITS PRESENT GAR GANTUAN DIMENSIONS ,ATER DURING &LORENCES BRIEF TENURE AS THE )TALIAN CAPITAL BETWEEN AND IT HOUSED THE )TALIAN KINGS 4ODAY THE 0ALAZZO 0ITTI AND THE PAVILIONS OF THE 'IARDINO DI "ØBOLI SEE P CONTAIN EIGHT MUSEUMS OF WHICH THE FOREMOST IS THE 'ALLERIA 0ALATINA A PAINTING COLLECTION SECOND IN IMPORTANCE ONLY TO THE 5FlZI 3EPARATE TICKETS ARE REQUIRED FOR THE 'ALLERIA AND -USEO DEGLI !RGENTI THE MOST COMPELLING OF
THE PALACES OTHER COLLECTIONS AND FOR THE 'ALLERIA D!RTE -ODERNA n THESE TICKETS HOWEVER COVER ENTRY INTO OTHER MUSEUMS IN THE COMPLEX 4HE 'ALLERIA 0ALATINA AND !PPARTAMENTI 2EALI
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-ANY OF THE PAINTINGS GATHERED BY THE -EDICI IN THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY ARE NOW ARRANGED IN THE 'ALLERIA 0ALATINA 4UESn3UN AMnPM + INCLUDES ADMISSION TO THE !PPARTAMENTI 2EALI A SUITE OF ROOMS ON THE lRST mOOR OF ONE WING OF THE PALACE 4HE TICKET OFlCE AND THE GRAND STAIRCASE LEADING UP TO THE GALLERY BOTH LIE OFF THE MAIN COURTYARD TO THE REAR OF THE PAL ACE "EYOND THE HUGE CHANDELIER AT THE HEAD OF THE STAIRS THE lRST TWO ROOMS n WHICH HAVE WONDERFUL VIEWS n LEAD INTO TWO PARALLEL SUITES OF SIX ROOMS )F YOU WANT TO HEAD FOR THE MEAT OF THE COLLECTION WALK STRAIGHT TO THE END OF THE lRST SECTION THEN TURN LEFT AND BACK DOWN THE PARALLEL ROW OF STATE ROOMS )TS HERE THAT YOULL lND THE GALLERYS ELEVEN PAINTINGS BY 2APHAEL AS WELL AS THE FOURTEEN 4ITIANS 4HE PICTURES ARE NOT ARRANGED IN THE SORT OF DIDACTIC ORDER OBSERVED BY MOST GALLERIES BUT ARE INSTEAD HUNG AS THEY WOULD HAVE BEEN IN THE DAYS OF THEIR ACQUISITION THREE DEEP IN PLACES WITH THE AIM OF MAKING EACH ROOM PLEASURABLY VARIED 4HE BEST THING TO DO IS WANDER AT RANDOM UNTIL A PICTURE TAKES YOUR FANCY 4HE BIG NAMES JUST KEEP ON COMING AND THE HIGHLIGHTS ARE MANY SO YOULL NEED SEVERAL HOURS TO SEE THE COLLECTION PROPERLY 4HE CURRENT ITINERARY TAKES YOU STRAIGHT THROUGH INTO THE SUITE CONTAINING MOSTLY LESS FAMOUS WORKS THOUGH SOME INDIVIDUAL PAINTINGS ARE WELL WORTH SEEKING OUT NOTABLY &RA "ARTOLOMEOS $EPOSITION A TONDO OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 3CENES FROM THE ,IFE OF 3T !NNE BY &ILIPPO ,IPPI HIS SON &ILIPPINOS $EATH OF ,UCREZIA A 3LEEPING #UPID BY #ARAVAGGIO AND #RISTOFANO !LLORIS SEXY *UDITH AND (OLOFERNES FOR WHICH !LLORI HIMSELF HIS MOTHER AND HIS MISTRESS PROVIDED THE MODELS FOR THE PRINCIPAL CHARACTERS !LSO IN THIS SECTION ARE THE #ORRIDOIO DEL 6OLTERRANO WHICH HOUSES MAINLY &LORENTINE WORKS OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY AND THE #ORRIDOIO DELLA #OLONNA WHICH HAS A &LEMISH THEME )N THE SECOND MORE CAPTIVATING PART OF THE GALLERY !NDREA DEL 3ARTO IS REPRESENTED IN STRENGTH HIS SEVENTEEN WORKS INCLUDING A BEAUTIFULLY GRAVE !NNUNCIATION %VEN MORE REMARKABLE IS THE 0ITTIS COLLECTION OF PAINTINGS BY HIS GREAT CONTEMPORARY 2APHAEL 7HEN 2APHAEL SETTLED IN &LORENCE IN HE WAS BESIEGED WITH COMMISSIONS FROM PATRONS DELIGHTED TO lND AN ARTIST FOR WHOM THE CREATIVE PROCESS INVOLVED SO LITTLE AGONIZING )N THE NEXT THREE YEARS HE PAINTED SCORES OF PICTURES FOR SUCH PEOPLE AS !NGELO $ONI THE MAN WHO COMMISSIONED -ICHELANGELOS $ONI 4ONDO NOW IN THE 5FlZI 2APHAELS PORTRAITS OF $ONI AND HIS WIFE -ADDALENA n DISPLAY AN UNHESITATING FACILITY AND PERFECT POISE IF THE -ADDALENAS POSE LOOKS FAMILIAR INCIDENTALLY ITS BECAUSE ITS COPIED DIRECTLY FROM ,EONARDOS -ONA ,ISA 3IMILAR POISE ILLUMINATES 2APHAELS SPLENDIDLY FRAMED -ADONNA DELLA 3EGGIOLA OR -ADONNA OF THE #HAIR WHICH FOR CENTURIES WAS )TALYS MOST POPULAR IMAGE OF THE 6IRGIN NINETEENTH CENTURY COPYISTS HAD TO JOIN A lVE YEAR WAITING LIST TO STUDY THE PICTURE !CCORDING TO 6ASARI THE MODEL FOR THE FAMOUS $ONNA 6ELATA 6EILED 7OMAN IN THE 3ALA DI 'IOVE WAS THE PAINTERS MISTRESS A 2OMAN BAKERS DAUGHTER KNOWN TO POSTERITY AS ,A &ORNARINA 4HE ASSEMBLY OF PAINTINGS BY THE 6ENETIAN ARTIST 4ITIAN INCLUDES A NUMBER OF HIS MOST TRENCHANT PORTRAITS 4HE LECHEROUS AND SCURRILOUS 0IETRO !RETINO n JOURNALIST CRITIC POET AND ONE OF 4ITIANS CLOSEST FRIENDS n WAS SO THRILLED BY HIS PORTRAIT THAT HE GAVE IT TO #OSIMO ) 4ITIAN PAINTED HIM ON SEVERAL OTHER OCCASIONS SOMETIMES USING HIM AS THE MODEL FOR 0ONTIUS 0ILATE !LSO HERE ARE LIKENESSES OF 0HILIP )) OF 3PAIN AND THE YOUNG #ARDINAL )PPOLITO DE -EDICI
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n WHO FOUGHT IN THE DEFENCE OF 6IENNA AGAINST THE /TTOMANS ONLY TO BE POISONED AT THE AGE OF n AND THE SO CALLED 0ORTRAIT OF AN %NGLISHMAN WHO SCRUTINIZES THE VIEWER WITH UNmINCHING SEA GREY EYES 4O HIS LEFT BY WAY OF CONTRAST IS THE SAME ARTISTS SENSUOUS AND MUCH COPIED -ARY -AGDALENE THE lRST OF A SERIES ON THIS THEME PRODUCED FOR THE DUKE OF 5RBINO )N THE SAME ROOM LOOK OUT FOR 2OSSO &IORENTINOS RECENTLY RESTORED -ADONNA %NTHRONED WITH 3AINTS AND THE GALLERYS OUTSTANDING SCULPTURE #ANOVAS 6ENUS )TALICA COMMISSIONED BY .APOLEON AS A REPLACEMENT FOR THE 6ENUS DE -EDICI WHICH HE HAD WHISKED OFF TO 0ARIS -UCH OF THE REST OF THE 0ITTIS lRST mOOR COMPRISES THE !PPARTAMENTI 2EALI THE 0ITTIS STATE ROOMS 4HEY WERE RENOVATED BY THE DUKES OF ,ORRAINE IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY AND THEN BY 6ITTORIO %MANUELE WHEN &LORENCE BECAME THE COUNTRYS CAPITAL SO THE ROOMS DISPLAY THREE DISTINCT DECORATIVE PHASES 4HE GALLERY LEADS STRAIGHT THROUGH INTO THE APARTMENTS AND AFTER 2APHAEL AND 4ITIAN IT CAN BE DIFlCULT TO SUSTAIN A GREAT DEAL OF ENTHUSIASM FOR SUCH DUCAL ELEGANCE NOTWITHSTANDING THE SUMPTUOUSNESS OF THE FURNISHINGS 4HE OTHER 0ITTI MUSEUMS
/N THE mOOR ABOVE THE 0ALATINA IS THE 'ALLERIA D!RTE -ODERNA 4UESn3AT AMnPM ALSO ST RD TH 3UN OF MONTH AND ND TH -ON OF MONTH SAME HOURS JOINT TICKET WITH 'ALLERIA DEL #OSTUME + A CHRONOLOGICAL SURVEY OF PRIMARILY 4USCAN ART FROM THE MID EIGHTEENTH CENTURY TO -OST REWARDING ARE THE PRODUCTS OF THE -ACCHIAIOLI THE )TALIAN DIVISION OF THE )MPRES SIONIST MOVEMENT MOST STARTLING HOWEVER ARE THE SCULPTURES FEATURING SUBLIME KITSCH SUCH AS !NTONIO #ISERIS 0REGNANT .UN 4HE -USEO DEGLI !RGENTI *AN &EB .OV $EC AMnPM CLOSES HR LATER IN -ARCH HR LATER IN !PRIL -AY 3EPT /CT HR LATER *UNEn!UG CLOSED ST LAST -ON OF MONTH JOINT TICKET WITH -USEO DELLE 0ORCELLANE AND 'IARDINO DI "ØBOLI + ENTERED FROM THE MAIN PALACE COURTYARD IS A MUSEUM NOT JUST OF SILVERWARE BUT OF LUXURY ARTEFACTS IN GENERAL 4HE LAVISHLY FRESCOED RECEPTION ROOMS THEMSELVES FALL INTO THIS CATEGORY THE lRST HALL THE 3ALA DI 'IOVANNI DA 3AN 'IOVANNI SHOWS ,ORENZO DE -EDICI GIVING REFUGE TO THE -USES THE OTHER THREE CEREMONIAL ROOMS HAVE TROMPE LOEIL PAINTINGS BY SEVENTEENTH CENTURY "OLOGNESE ARTISTS !S FOR THE EXHIBITS THE LEAST AMBIVALENT RESPONSE IS LIKELY TO BE AROUSED BY ,ORENZO THE -AGNIlCENTS TROVE OF ANTIQUE VASES ALL OF THEM MARKED WITH THEIR OWNERS NAME 4HE LATER THE DATE OF THE PIECES THOUGH THE GREATER THE DISCREPANCY BETWEEN THE SKILL OF THE CRAFTSMAN AND THE TASTE BY WHICH IT WAS GOVERNED BY THE TIME YOU REACH THE END OF THE JEWELLERY SHOW ON THE lRST mOOR YOULL HAVE LOST ALL CAPACITY TO BE SURPRISED OR REVOLTED BY SEASHELL lGURINES CUPS MADE FROM OSTRICH EGGS PORTRAITS IN STONE INLAY AND THE LIKE /NE OFF EXHIBITIONS ARE SOMETIMES HELD HERE WHICH CAN AFFECT THE TICKET PRICE AND OPENING HOURS 6ISITORS WITHOUT A SPECIALIST INTEREST ARE UNLIKELY TO BE RIVETED BY THE OTHER 0ITTI MUSEUMS THAT ARE CURRENTLY OPEN )N THE 0ALAZZINA DELLA -ERIDIANA THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY SOUTHERN WING OF THE 0ITTI THE 'ALLERIA DEL #OSTUME SAME HOURS TICKET AS 'ALLERIA D!RTE -ODERNA PROVIDES THE OPPORTUNITY TO SEE THE DRESS THAT %LEONORA DI 4OLEDO WORE IN "RONZINOS FAMOUS PORTRAIT OF HER IN THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO 4HE WELL PRESENTED IF ESOTERIC COLLECTION OF PORCELAIN THE -USEO DELLE 0ORCELLANE IS LOCATED ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE "ØBOLI GARDEN SAME HOURS AND TICKET AS -USEO DEGLI !RGENTI WHILE THE -USEO DELLE #AR ROZZE #ARRIAGE -USEUM HAS BEEN CLOSED FOR YEARS AND DESPITE WHAT THE 0ITTI HANDOUTS TELL YOU WILL ALMOST CERTAINLY REMAIN SO FOR THE FORESEEABLE FUTURE TO THE CHAGRIN OF VERY FEW
4HE 'IARDINO DI "ØBOLI
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4HE DELIGHTFUL FORMAL GARDENS OF THE 0ALAZZO 0ITTI THE 'IARDINO DI "ØBOLI SAME HOURS AND TICKET AS -USEO DEGLI !RGENTI TAKES ITS NAME FROM THE "ØBOLI FAMILY ERSTWHILE OWNERS OF MUCH OF THIS AREA WHICH WAS ONCE A QUARRY THE BEDROCK HERE IS ONE OF THE SOURCES OF THE YELLOW SANDSTONE KNOWN AS PIETRA FORTE STRONG STONE THAT GIVES MUCH OF &LORENCE ITS DOMINANT HUE #AREFULLY SHAPED INTO A ROUGH BOULDER LIKE TEXTURE THIS STONE WAS ALSO USED TO hRUSTICATEv THE 0ALAZZO 0ITTIS GREAT FACADE 7HEN THE -EDICI ACQUIRED THE HOUSE IN THEY SET TO WORK TRANSFORMING THEIR BACK YARD INTO AN ENORMOUS ACRE GARDEN ITS EVERY STATUE VIEW AND GROTTO DESIGNED TO ELEVATE NATURE BY THE JUDICIOUS APPLICATION OF ART 7ORK CONTINUED INTO THE EARLY SEVENTEENTH CENTURY BY WHICH STAGE THIS STEEP HILLSIDE HAD BEEN TURNED INTO A MAZE OF STATUE STREWN AVENUES AND WELL TRIMMED VEGETATION /PENED TO THE PUBLIC IN IT IS THE ONLY REALLY EXTEN SIVE AREA OF ACCESSIBLE GREENERY IN THE CENTRE OF THE CITY AND CAN BE ONE OF THE MOST PLEASANT SPOTS FOR A MIDDAY PICNIC OR COFFEE 4HERES A CAFÏ THE +AFFEEHAUS WITH A PANORAMIC VIEW IN THE GARDEN )TS NO PLACE TO SEEK SOLITUDE HOWEVER SOME lVE MILLION VISITORS ANNUALLY MORE THAN AT ANY OTHER )TALIAN GARDEN TAKE TIME OUT HERE )F THE QUEUES AT THE MAIN ENTRANCE ARE TOO DAUNTING WALK ABOUT THREE HUNDRED METRES FURTHER ALONG THE MAIN ROAD THE 6IA 2OMANA WHERE YOULL lND ANOTHER INVARIABY QUIETER ENTRANCE
5 'IARDINO DI "ØBOLI
4HE BIRTH OF OPERA
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4HE -EDICI PAGEANTS IN THE GARDENS OF THE 0ITTI WERE THE LAST WORD IN EXTRAVAGANCE AND THE PALACE HAS A CLAIM TO BE THE BIRTHPLACE OF THE MOST EXTRAVAGANT MODERN PERFORMING ART OPERA 4HE ROOTS OF THE GENRE ARE CONVOLUTED BUT ITS ANCESTRY CERTAINLY OWES MUCH TO THE SINGING AND DANCING TABLEAUX CALLED INTERMEDII WITH WHICH HIGH SOCIETY &LORENTINE WEDDINGS WERE PADDED OUT )NmUENCED BY THESE SHOWS THE ACADEMY KNOWN AS THE #AMERATA &IORENTINA BEGAN AT THE END OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY TO BLEND THE PRINCIPLES OF 'REEK DRAMA WITH A SEMI MUSICAL STYLE OF DECLAMATION 4HE lRST COMPOSITION RECOGNIZABLE AS AN OPERA IS $AFNE WRITTEN BY TWO MEMBERS OF THE #AMERATA *ACOPO 0ERI AND /TTAVIO 2INUCCI AND PERFORMED IN THE EARLIEST OPERA WHOSE MUSIC HAS SURVIVED IN ITS ENTIRETY IS THE SAME DUOS %URIDICE PREMIERED IN THE 0ITTI PALACE ON THE OCCASION OF THE PROXY MARRIAGE OF -ARIA DE -EDICI TO (ENRY )6
!LIGNED WITH THE CENTRAL BLOCK OF THE PALAZZO THE GARDENS AMPHITHEATRE WAS DESIGNED IN THE EARLY SEVENTEENTH CENTURY AS AN ARENA FOR -EDICI ENTERTAIN MENTS 4HE SITE HAD PREVIOUSLY BEEN LAID OUT BY !MMANNATI IN OVER AN EAR LIER STONE QUARRY AS A GARDEN IN THE SHAPE OF A 2OMAN CIRCUS &OR THE WEDDING OF #OSIMO ))) AND 0RINCESS -ARGUERITE ,OUISE COUSIN OF ,OUIS 8)6 TWENTY THOUSAND GUESTS WERE PACKED ONTO THE STONE BENCHES TO WATCH A PRODUCTION THAT BEGAN WITH THE APPEARANCE OF A GIGANTIC EFlGY OF !TLAS WITH THE GLOBE ON HIS BACK THE SHOW GOT UNDER WAY WHEN THE PLANET SPLIT APART RELEASING A CASCADE OF EARTH THAT TRANSFORMED THE GIANT INTO THE !TLAS MOUNTAIN 3UCH FRIVOLITIES DID LIT TLE TO RECONCILE -ARGUERITE ,OUISE TO EITHER &LORENCE OR HER HUSBAND AND AFTER SEVERAL ACRIMONIOUS YEARS THIS MISERABLE DYNASTIC MARRIAGE CAME TO AN EFFECTIVE END WITH HER RETURN TO 0ARIS WHERE SHE PROFESSED TO CARE ABOUT LITTLE hAS LONG AS ) NEVER HAVE TO SET EYES ON THE GRAND DUKE AGAINv /F ALL THE GARDENS -ANNERIST EMBELLISHMENTS THE MOST CELEBRATED IS THE 'ROTTA DEL "UONTALENTI n TO THE LEFT OF THE ENTRANCE BEYOND 'IAM BOLOGNAS MUCH REPRODUCED STATUE OF #OSIMO )S FAVOURITE DWARF ASTRIDE A GIANT TORTOISE %MBEDDED IN THE GROTTOS FAKED STALACTITES AND ENCRUSTATIONS ARE REPLICAS OF -ICHELANGELOS 3LAVES n THE ORIGINALS WERE LODGED HERE UNTIL ,URKING IN THE DEEPEST RECESSES OF THE CAVE WHICH IS USUALLY OPENED ON THE HOUR IS 'IAMBOLOGNAS 6ENUS %MERGING FROM HER "ATH LEERED AT BY ATTENDANT IMPS !NOTHER SPECTACULAR SET PIECE IS THE FOUNTAIN ISLAND CALLED THE )SOLOTTO WHICH IS THE FOCAL POINT OF THE FAR END OF THE GARDEN FROM WITHIN THE "ØBOLI THE MOST DRAMATIC APPROACH IS ALONG THE CENTRAL CYPRESS AVENUE KNOWN AS THE 6IOT TOLONE MANY OF WHOSE STATUES ARE 2OMAN ORIGINALS 4HESE LOWER PARTS OF THE GARDEN ARE ITS MOST PLEASANT n AND LEAST VISITED n SECTIONS 9OU COME UPON THEM QUICKLY IF YOU ENTER THE "ØBOLI BY THE LITTLE USED 0ORTA 2OMANA ENTRANCE OR BY THE GATE THATS A SHORT DISTANCE PAST ,A 3PECOLA SEE BELOW
#ASA 'UIDI AND ,A 3PECOLA
7ITHIN A STONES THROW OF THE 0ITTI ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE ROAD ON THE JUNCTION OF 6IA -AGGIO AND 6IA 2OMANA YOULL lND THE HOME OF 2OBERT "ROWNING AND %LIZABETH "ARRETT "ROWNING THE #ASA 'UIDI !PRILn.OV -ON 7ED &RI nPM FREE BUT DONATIONS WELCOME )TS SOMETHING OF A SHRINE TO %LIZABETH WHO WROTE MUCH OF HER MOST POPULAR VERSE HERE INCLUDING NATU RALLY ENOUGH #ASA 'UIDI 7INDOWS AND DIED HERE 6IRTUALLY ALL THE #ASA 'UIDIS FURNITURE WENT UNDER THE HAMMER AT 3OTHEBYS IN AND THERES JUST ONE OIL PAINTING LEFT BUT TWO OF THE THREE ROOMS STILL MANAGE TO CONJURE UP SOMETHING
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OF THE SPIRIT )T MAKES A SPECTACULAR PLACE TO STAY n YOU CAN RENT IT THROUGH THE ,ANDMARK 4RUST BUT IT IS BOOKED MONTHS AHEAD AND IS FAR FROM CHEAP WWW LANDMARKTRUSTORGUK 4HERES MORE TO ENJOY ON THE THIRD mOOR OF THE UNIVERSITY BUILDINGS AT 6IA 2OMANA IN WHAT CAN REASONABLY CLAIM TO BE THE STRANGEST MUSEUM IN THE CITY 4AKING ITS NAME FROM THE TELESCOPE SPECOLA ON ITS ROOF ,A 3PECOLA -ON 4UES 4HURS &RI 3UN AMnPM 3AT AMnPM + WWWSPECOLAUNIl ITCERE IS A TRIPARTITE MUSEUM OF ZOOLOGY /NE SECTION COMPRISING THE COUNTRYS LARGEST COLLECTION OF SKELETONS IS OPEN TO THE PUBLIC ONLY ON 3ATURDAY MORNINGS /F THE OTHER PARTS THE lRST IS CONVENTIONAL ENOUGH WITH RANKS OF SHELLS INSECTS AND CRUSTACEANS FOLLOWED BY A VERITABLE ARK OF ANIMALS STUFFED PICKLED AND DESIC CATED INCLUDING A HIPPO GIVEN TO 'RAND $UKE 0IETRO ,EOPARDO WHICH USED TO RESIDE IN THE "ØBOLI GARDEN "EYOND SOME RATHER FRAYED LOOKING SHARKS LIE THE EXHIBITS EVERYONE COMES TO SEE THE #ERE !NATOMICHE !NATOMICAL 7AXWORKS 7AX ARMS LEGS AND INTERNAL ORGANS COVER THE WALLS ARRAYED AROUND SATIN BEDS ON WHICH WAX CADAVERS RECLINE IN PROGRESSIVE STAGES OF DECONSTRUCTION EACH MUSCLE lBRE AND NERVE CLUSTER MOULDED AND DYED WITH SCARCELY BELIEVABLE PRECISION -OST OF THE SIX HUNDRED MODELS n AND NEARLY ALL OF THE AMAZING FULL BODY MAN NEQUINS n WERE MADE BETWEEN AND BY ONE #LEMENTE 3USINI AND HIS TEAM OF ASSISTANTS AND WERE INTENDED AS TEACHING AIDS IN AN AGE WHEN MEDICAL ETHICS AND REFRIGERATION TECHNIQUES WERE NOT WHAT THEY ARE TODAY )N A SEPARATE ROOM TOWARDS THE END AFTER THE OBSTETRICS DISPLAY AND A FEW ZOO LOGICAL MODELS YOULL lND THE GRISLIEST SECTION OF ,A 3PECOLA A TRIO OF TABLEAUX THAT WERE MOULDED IN THE LATE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY BY 'AETANO :UMBO A CLERIC FROM 3ICILY WHO WAS ONE OF THE PIONEERS OF THE ART OF ANATOMICAL WAX WORKS 7HEREAS 3USINIS MASTERPIECES WERE CREATED TO EDUCATE THESE WERE MADE TO HORRIFY AND TO HORRIFY ONE MAN IN PARTICULAR THE HYPOCHONDRIACAL #OSIMO ))) A *ESUIT INDOCTRINATED BIGOT WHO REGARDED ALL GENUINE SCIENTIlC ENQUIRY WITH SUSPICION %NCLOSED IN TASTEFUL DISPLAY CABINETS THEY DEPICT &LORENCE DURING THE PLAGUE RATS TEASING THE INTESTINES FROM GREEN mESHED CORPSES MUSHROOMS GROWING FROM THE MULCH OF mESHLY DEBRIS AND THE PINK BODIES OF THE FRESHLY DEAD HEAPED ON THE SUPPURATING SEMI DECOMPOSED ! FOURTH TABLEAU ILLUSTRATING THE HORRORS OF SYPHILIS WAS DAMAGED IN THE mOOD AND NOW CONSISTS OF A LOOSE GATHERING OF THE DECEASED AND DISEASED )N THE CENTRE OF THE ROOM LIES A DISSECTED WAXWORK HEAD BUILT ON THE FOUNDATION OF A REAL SKULL ITS AS FASTIDIOUS AS ANY OF 3USINIS CREATIONS BUT :UMBO COULDNT RESIST GIVING THE SKIN A TINT OF PUTREFACTION BEFORE APPLYING A DRIBBLE OF BLOOD TO THE MOUTH AND NOSE
3ANTO 3PIRITO $ESIGNED IN AS A REPLACEMENT FOR A THIRTEENTH CENTURY CHURCH 3ANTO 3PIRITO -ONn3AT AMnNOON nPM CLOSED 7ED PM AND OPEN ONLY FOR -ASS ON 3UN WAS ONE OF "RUNELLESCHIS LAST PROJECTS A SWANSONG LATER DESCRIBED BY "ERNINI AS hTHE MOST BEAUTIFUL CHURCH IN THE WORLDv 4HE CHURCH IS SO PERFECTLY PROPORTIONED THAT NOTHING COULD SEEM MORE ARTLESS YET THE PLAN IS EXTREMELY SOPHISTICATED A ,ATIN CROSS WITH A CONTINUOUS CHAIN OF CHAPELS ROUND THE OUTSIDE AND A LINE OF COLUMNS RUNNING WITHOUT A BREAK ROUND THE NAVE TRANSEPTS AND CHANCEL 4HE EXTERIOR WALL WAS ORIGINALLY DESIGNED TO FOLLOW THE CURVES OF THE CHAPELS WALLS CREATING A mOWING CORRUGATED EFFECT !S BUILT HOWEVER THE EXTERIOR IS A PLAIN STRAIGHT WALL AND EVEN THE MAIN FACADE REMAINED INCOMPLETE DISGUISED TODAY BY A SIMPLE PLASTERING JOB )NSIDE THE CHURCH ONLY THE "AROQUE BALDACHIN ABOUT AS NICELY INTEGRATED AS A JUKEBOX IN A 'REEK TEM PLE DISRUPTS THE HARMONY
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! lRE IN DESTROYED MOST OF 3ANTO 3PIRITOS MEDIEVAL WORKS INCLUDING FAMED FRESCOES BY #IMABUE AND THE 'ADDI FAMILY BUT AS A RESULT THE ALTAR PAINT INGS IN THE MANY CHAPELS COMPRISE AN UNUSUALLY UNIlED COLLECTION OF RELIGIOUS WORKS MOST HAVING BEEN COMMISSIONED IN THE AFTERMATH OF THE lRE &OR THE lRST TIME SINGLE PAINTED PANELS REPLACED THE PREVIOUSLY PREFERRED GENRE OF THE POLYPTYCH AND THERE WAS A NEW EMPHASIS ON THE SO CALLED 3ACRA #ONVERSAZIONE REPRESENTING THE -ADONNA AND CHILD SURROUNDED BY SAINTS EACH APPARENTLY LOST IN PRIVATE MEDITATION -OST PROLIlC AMONG THE ARTISTS IS THE SO CALLED -AESTRO DI 3ANTO 3PIRITO BUT SOME OF THE BEST PAINTINGS ARE FOUND IN THE TRANSEPTS )N THE SOUTH TRANSEPT IS &ILIPPINO ,IPPIS SO CALLED .ERLI !LTARPIECE AN AGE DARKENED -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH SAINTS SECOND CHAPEL FROM THE LEFT OF THE FOUR CHAPELS ON THE TRANSEPTS SOUTH WALL 4HE .ERLI WERE THE FAMILY WHO COM MISSIONED THE CHAPEL AND THE PAINTING THE DONORS 4ANAI AND .ANNA DEI .ERLI BEING PORTRAYED AMIDST THE LATTERS SAINTS THEIR &LORENTINE HOME THE 0ALAZZO DEI .ERLI NEAR 0ORTA 3AN &REDIANO IS DEPICTED IN THE BACKGROUND !CROSS THE CHURCH IN THE NORTH TRANSEPT IS AN UNUSUAL 3T -ONICA AND !UGUSTINIAN .UNS n PROBABLY BY 6ERROCCHIO OR &RANCESCO "OTTICINI THATS VIRTUALLY A STUDY IN MONOCHROME WITH BLACK CLAD NUNS mOCKING ROUND THEIR BLACK CLAD PARAGON ITS IN THE SECOND CHAPEL ON THE RIGHT WALL AS YOU STAND WITH YOUR BACK TO THE HIGH ALTAR ! DOOR IN THE NORTH AISLE LEADS THROUGH TO 'IULIANO DA 3ANGALLOS STUNNING VESTIBULE AND SACRISTY n THE LATTER DESIGNED IN IMITATION OF "RUNEL LESCHIS 0AZZI CHAPEL 4HE METICULOUSLY PLANNED PROPORTIONS AND SOFT GREY AND WHITE TONES CREATE AN ATMOSPHERE OF EXTRAORDINARY CALM THAT IS ONLY DISRUPTED BY THE EXUBERANTLY BOTANICAL CARVINGS OF THE CAPITALS SOME OF WHICH WERE DESIGNED BY 3ANSOVINO (ANGING ABOVE THE ALTAR IS A WOODEN CRUCIlX ATTRIBUTED TO -ICHELANGELO 7ITH ITS DISTINCTIVE TENDERLY FEMINIZED BODY ITS EXISTENCE HAD LONG BEEN DOCUMENTED BUT IT WAS FEARED LOST UNTIL DISCOVERED IN 3ANTO 3PIRITO IN 4HE #HIOSTRO DEI -ORTI AND THE #ENACOLO DI 3ANTO 3PIRITO
! GLASS DOOR AT THE FAR END OF THE VESTIBULE USUALLY LOCKED GIVES OUT ONTO THE #HIOSTRO DEI -ORTI THE ONLY CLOISTER IN THE COMPLEX THAT IS STILL PART OF THE !UGUSTINIAN MONASTERY 4HE lRE DESTROYED MUCH OF THE REST OF THE MONAS TERY WITH THE EXCEPTION OF ITS REFECTORY ENTERED TO THE LEFT OF THE MAIN CHURCH AT 0IAZZA 3ANTO 3PIRITO WHICH IS NOW THE HOME OF THE #ENACOLO DI 3ANTO 3PIRITO 4UESn3UN !PRILn.OV AMnPM $ECn-ARCH AMnPM + A ONE ROOM COLLECTION COMPRISING AN ASSORTMENT OF CARVINGS MANY OF THEM 2OMANESQUE AND A HUGE FRESCO OF 4HE #RUCIlXION BY /RCAGNA AND HIS WORKSHOP
3ANTA -ARIA DEL #ARMINE
.OWHERE IN &LORENCE IS THERE A MORE STARTLING CONTRAST BETWEEN EXTERIOR AND INTERIOR THAN IN 3ANTA -ARIA DEL #ARMINE A COUPLE OF BLOCKS WEST OF 3ANTO 3PIRITO IN 0IAZZA DEL #ARMINE /UTSIDE ITS A DRAB BOX OF SHABBY BRICK INSIDE n IN THE DAZZLINGLY RESTORED FRESCOES OF THE #APPELLA "RANCACCI -ON 7EDn3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM + OR + JOINT TICKET WITH 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO n IT PROVIDES ONE OF )TALYS SUPREME ARTISTIC EXPERIENCES 4HE CHAPEL IS BARRICADED OFF FROM THE REST OF THE #ARMINE AND VISITS ARE RESTRICTED TO A MAXIMUM OF THIRTY PEOPLE AT A TIME FOR JUST lFTEEN MINUTES 4HE TIME LIMIT IS STRICTLY ENFORCED IN HIGH SEASON BUT TENDS TO BECOME MORE mEXIBLE AS THE CROWDS EBB AWAY 9OU
CAN EITHER BOOK A SLOT ON OR PAY AT THE TICKET OFlCE IF YOU CHOOSE THE LATTER OPTION BEAR IN MIND THAT TICKETS ARE TIMED SO YOU MAY HAVE TO COME BACK SOME TIME AFTER BUYING THEM 4HE #APPELLA "RANCACCI
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4HE #APPELLA "RANCACCI FRESCOES WERE COMMISSIONED IN BY &ELICE "RANCACCI A SILK MERCHANT AND LEADING PATRICIAN lGURE SHORTLY AFTER HIS RETURN FROM A STINT IN %GYPT AS THE &LORENTINE AMBASSADOR 4HE DECORATION OF THE CHAPEL WAS BEGUN IN THE SAME YEAR BY -ASOLINO n FRESH FROM WORKING AS AN ASSISTANT TO ,ORENZO 'HIBERTI ON THE "APTISTERY DOORS !LONGSIDE -ASOLINO WAS 4OMMASO DI 3ER 'IOVANNI DI -ONE #ASSAI n KNOWN EVER SINCE AS -ASAC CIO n A NICKNAME MEANING h-AD 4OMv 4HE FORMER WAS AGED THE LATTER JUST 4WO YEARS INTO THE PROJECT -ASOLINO WAS RECALLED TO "UDAPEST WHERE HE WAS OFlCIAL PAINTER TO THE (UNGARIAN COURT ,EFT TO HIS OWN DEVICES -ASACCIO BEGAN TO BLOSSOM 7HEN -ASOLINO RETURNED IN THE TEACHER WAS SOON TAKING LES SONS FROM THE SUPPOSED PUPIL WHOSE GRASP OF THE TEXTURE OF THE REAL WORLD OF THE PRINCIPLES OF PERSPECTIVE AND OF THE DRAMATIC POTENTIAL OF THE BIBLICAL TEXTS THEY WERE ILLUSTRATING FAR EXCEEDED THAT OF HIS PRECURSORS )N -ASOLINO WAS CALLED AWAY TO 2OME WHERE HE WAS FOLLOWED BY -ASACCIO A FEW MONTHS LATER .EITHER WOULD RETURN TO THE CHAPEL -ASACCIO DIED THE SAME YEAR AGED JUST BUT IN THE WORDS OF 6ASARI
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hALL THE MOST CELEBRATED SCULPTORS AND PAINTERS SINCE -ASACCIOS DAY HAVE BECOME EXCELLENT AND ILLUSTRI OUS BY STUDYING THEIR ART IN THIS CHAPELv -ICHELANGELO USED TO COME HERE TO MAKE DRAWINGS OF -ASACCIOS SCENES AND HAD HIS NOSE BROKEN ON THE CHAPEL STEPS BY A YOUNG SCULPTOR WHOM HE ENRAGED WITH HIS CONDE SCENSION 3OME lFTY YEARS LATER THE PAINTINGS WERE COMPLETED BY &ILIP £ Ó Î { x È PINO ,IPPI WHOSE COPYING SKILLS WERE SUCH THAT HIS WORK WAS ONLY RECOGNIZED AS DISTINCT FROM THAT OF HIS £ä ££ n PREDECESSORS IN £Ó Ç 4HE SMALL SCENE ON THE LEFT OF THE ENTRANCE ARCH IS THE QUINTESSENCE OF -ASACCIOS ART 0LENTY OF ARTISTS HAD DEPICTED 4HE %XPULSION OF !DAM AND %VE BEFORE BUT NONE HAD CAP TURED THE DESOLATION OF THE SINNERS SO £ /
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PLANNING OF THE CHAPEL )N CONTRAST TO THE EMOTIONAL CHARGE AND SCULPTURAL PRES ENCE OF -ASACCIOS COUPLE -ASOLINOS ALMOST DAINTY !DAM AND %VE ON THE OPPOSITE ARCH POSE AS IF TO HAVE THEIR PORTRAITS PAINTED 3T 0ETER IS CHIEF PROTAGONIST OF ALL THE REMAINING SCENES )TS POSSIBLE THAT THE CYCLE WAS INTENDED AS PROPAGANDA ON BEHALF OF THE EMBATTLED PAPACY WHICH HAD ONLY RECENTLY RESOLVED THE LONG AND BITTER 'REAT 3CHISM DURING WHICH ONE POPE HELD COURT IN 2OME AND ANOTHER IN !VIGNON "Y CELEBRATING THE PRIMACY OF 3T 0ETER THE ROCK UPON WHOM THE #HURCH IS BUILT THE FRESCOES BY IMPLICATION EXTOL THE APOSTOLIC SUCCESSION FROM WHICH THE POPE DERIVES HIS AUTHORITY 4HREE SCENES BY -ASACCIO ARE ESPECIALLY COMPELLING &IRST OFF IS THE 4RIB UTE -ONEY MOST WIDELY PRAISED OF THE PAINTINGS AND THE 2ENAISSANCES lRST MONUMENTAL FRESCO 4HE NARRATIVE IS COMPLEX WITH NO FEWER THAN THREE SEPARATE EVENTS PORTRAYED WITHIN A SINGLE FRAME 4HE CENTRAL EPISODE SHOWS #HRIST OUTSIDE THE GATES OF #APERNAUM BEING ASKED TO PAY A TRIBUTE OWING TO THE CITY 4O THE LEFT 3T 0ETER FETCHES COINS FROM THE MOUTH OF A lSH IN ORDER TO PAY THE TRIBUTE #HRIST IN THE CENTRAL PANEL HAVING POINTED TO WHERE THE MONEY WILL BE FOUND 4HE THIRD SCENE TO THE RIGHT DEPICTS 0ETER HANDING OVER THE MONEY TO THE TAX OFlCIAL -ASACCIOS SECOND GREAT PANEL IS 3T 0ETER (EALING THE 3ICK WITH HIS 3HADOW IN WHICH THE SHADOW OF THE STERN AND SELF POSSESSED SAINT FOLLOWED BY 3T *OHN CURES THE INlRM AS IT PASSES OVER THEM A MIRACLE INVESTED WITH THE AURA OF A SOLEMN CEREMONIAL 4HE THIRD PANEL IS 4HE $ISTRIBUTION OF !LMS AND $EATH OF !NANIAS IN WHICH 3T 0ETER INSTRUCTS THE PEOPLE TO GIVE UP THEIR POSSESSIONS TO THE POOR /NE INDIVIDUAL !NANIAS RETAINS SOME OF HIS WEALTH WITH THE KNOWL EDGE OF HIS WIFE 3APPHIRA 2EBUKED BY 0ETER !NANIAS DIES ON THE SPOT CLOSELY FOLLOWED BY A SIMILARLY CASTIGATED 3APPHIRA &ILIPPINO ,IPPIS WORK INCLUDED THE COMPLETION OF -ASACCIOS 2AISING OF 4HEOPHILUSS 3ON AND 3T 0ETER %NTHRONED WHICH DEPICTS 3T 0ETER RAISING THE SON OF 4HEOPHILUS THE 0REFECT OF !NTIOCH APPARENTLY AFTER HED BEEN DEAD FOR FOURTEEN YEARS 4HE PEOPLE OF !NTIOCH SUITABLY IMPRESSED BY THE MIRACLE BUILD A THRONE FROM WHICH 3T 0ETER CAN PREACH SHOWN AS A SEPARATE EPISODE TO THE RIGHT 4HE THREE lGURES TO THE RIGHT OF THE THRONE ARE THOUGHT TO BE POR TRAITS OF -ASACCIO !LBERTI AND "RUNELLESCHI WHO MADE A TRIP TO 2OME TOGETHER -ASACCIO ORIGINALLY PAINTED HIMSELF TOUCHING 0ETERS ROBE A REFERENCE TO THE ENTHRONED STATUE OF 0ETER IN 2OME WHICH PILGRIMS TOUCH FOR GOOD LUCK ,IPPI CONSIDERED THE CONTACT OF THE ARTIST AND SAINT TO BE IMPROPER AND PAINTED OUT THE ARM AT THE MOMENT HIS FASTIDIOUS OVER PAINTING HAS BEEN ALLOWED TO REMAIN BUT YOU CAN CLEARLY SEE WHERE THE ARM USED TO BE ,IPPI LEFT ANOTHER PORTRAIT IN THE COMBINED SCENE OF 33 0ETER AND 0AUL IN $ISPUTATION WITH 3IMON -AGUS BEFORE .ERO AND THE #RUCIlXION OF 3T 0ETER THE CENTRAL lGURE LOOKING OUT FROM THE PAINTING IN THE TRIO RIGHT OF THE CRUCIlXION IS "OTTICELLI THE PAINTERS TEACHER WHILE &ILIPPINO HIMSELF CAN BE SEEN AT THE FAR RIGHT
4HE -USEO "ARDINI
4HE BEST WAY TO REACH THE "ARDINI MUSEUM FROM THE 0ONTE 6ECCHIO AND ELSE WHERE IN THE /LTRARNO IS TO TAKE 6IA DE "ARDI KNOWN IN THE -IDDLE !GES AS THE "ORGO 0ITIGLIOSO n THE hMISERABLEv OR hmEA BITTENv STREET 0ART WAY DOWN THE STREET ON THE LEFT BEYOND THE SMALL 0IAZZA DI 3ANTA -ARIA 3OPRARNO YOULL PASS THE TINY CHURCH OF 3ANTA ,UCIA DEI -AGNOLI FOUNDED IN 0OP INSIDE IF YOURE LUCKY ENOUGH TO lND IT OPEN THE lRST ALTAR ON THE LEFT HAS A PANEL OF 3T ,UCY BY THE 3IENESE MASTER 0IETRO ,ORENZETTI
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4HE -USEO "ARDINI CLOSED FOR RESTORATION AT THE TIME OF WRITING n AS IT HAS BEEN FOR SOME TIME WHICH STANDS AT THE END OF THE STREET AT 0IAZZA DE -OZZI IS LIKE THE -USEO (ORNE JUST ACROSS THE !RNO SEE P IN THAT IT WAS BUILT AROUND THE BEQUEST OF A PRIVATE COLLECTOR 7HEREAS (ORNE WAS A MODERATELY WELL OFF CONNOISSEUR HOWEVER HIS CONTEMPORARY 3ERGIO "ARDINI n WAS ONCE THE LARGEST ART DEALER IN )TALY (IS TIRELESS ACTIVITY AT A TIME WHEN 2ENAISSANCE ART WAS RELATIVELY CHEAP LAID THE CORNERSTONE OF MANY IMPORTANT MODERN DAY %UROPEAN AND .ORTH !MERICAN COLLECTIONS $ETERMINED THAT NO VISITOR TO HIS NATIVE CITY SHOULD REMAIN UNAWARE OF HIS SUCCESS HE RIPPED DOWN A CHURCH THAT STOOD ON THE SITE AND BUILT A VAST HOME STUDDING IT WITH FRAGMENTS OF OLD BUILDINGS $OORWAYS CEILING PANELS AND OTHER ORPHANED PIECES ARE STREWN ALL OVER THE PLACE THE lRST mOOR WINDOWS FOR INSTANCE ARE ACTUALLY ALTARS FROM A CHURCH IN 0ISTOIA 4HE MORE PORTABLE ITEMS ARE EQUALLY WIDE RANGING MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS CARVINGS CERAMICS ARMOUR FURNITURE CARPETS PICTURES n IF IT WAS VAGUELY ARTY AND HAD A PRICE TAG "ARDINI SNAPPED IT UP (IS ARTISTIC POT POURRI WAS BEQUEATHED TO THE CITY ON HIS DEATH 4HE MUSEUM MAY LACK GENUINE MAS TERPIECES BUT ITS CRAMMED WITH A SUFlCIENTLY WIDE VARIETY OF BEAUTIFUL OBJECTS TO APPEAL TO MOST TASTES $ISPLAYS ARE SPREAD OVER A COUPLE OF mOORS AND SOME TWENTY ROOMS THOUGH ONLY THE MORE PRECIOUS EXHIBITS ARE FULLY LABELLED /N THE GROUND mOOR BEYOND THE OPEN PLAN SPREAD OF ROOMS IN THE VESTIBULE 4INO DA #AMAINOS #HARITY 2OOM STANDS OUT )N 2OOM UPSTAIRS THERES A ROOM OF FUNERARY MONUMENTS ARRANGED AS IF IN A CRYPT WITH AN ENAMELLED TER RACOTTA ALTARPIECE ATTRIBUTED TO !NDREA DELLA 2OBBIA /N THE lRST mOOR BEYOND SEVERAL ROOMS OF WEAPONS THREE PIECES IN 2OOM ALSO GRAB THE ATTENTION A POLYCHROME TERRACOTTA OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD BY $ONATELLO AN EXTRAORDINARILY MODERN LOOKING STUCCO MOSAIC AND GLASS RELIEF OF THE -ADONNA DEI #ORDAI ALSO PROBABLY BY $ONATELLO AND A TERRACOTTA -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 3AN 'IOVAN NINO BY "ENEDETTO DA -AIANO 2OOM HAS SOME LOVELY CASSONI OR MEDIEVAL CHESTS AND SEVERAL OF THE MUSEUMS MANY DEPICTIONS OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD A SUBJECT WITH WHICH "ARDINI APPEARS TO HAVE BEEN OBSESSED /THER HIGHLIGHTS OF THE lNAL ROOMS INCLUDE SOME GORGEOUS CARPETS AND $OMENICO "ECCAFUMIS (ERCULES AT THE #ROSSROADS BETWEEN 6ICE AND 6IRTUE 2OOM -ICHELE 'IAMBONOS 3T *OHN THE "APTIST 2OOM A PAINTED RELIEF IN TERRACOTTA FROM THE WORKSHOP OF *ACOPO DELLA 1UERCIA 2OOM A 3T -ICHAEL BY !NTONIO DEL 0OLLAIUOLO AND A BEAUTIFUL TERRACOTTA 6IRGIN !NNUNCIATE AN ANONYMOUS PIECE FROM lFTEENTH CENTURY 3IENA 2OOM
&ROM 3AN .ICCOLÛ TO 3AN -INIATO "EYOND THE -USEO "ARDINI 6IA 3AN .ICCOLÛ SWINGS PAST 3AN .ICCOLÛ SOPR!RNO DAILY AMnNOON ANOTHER OF THIS QUARTERS INTERESTING LITTLE CHURCHES 2ESTORATION WORK AFTER THE mOOD UNCOVERED SEVERAL FRESCOES UNDERNEATH THE ALTARS BUT NONE IS AS APPEALING AS THE lFTEENTH CENTURY FRESCO IN THE SACRISTY KNOWN AS 4HE -ADONNA OF THE 'IRDLE IT WAS PROBABLY PAINTED BY "ALDOVINETTI )N MEDIEVAL TIMES THE CHURCH WAS CLOSE TO THE EDGE OF THE CITY AND TWO OF &LORENCES FOURTEENTH CENTURY GATES STILL STAND IN THE VICINITY THE DIMINU TIVE 0ORTA 3AN -INIATO SET IN A PORTION OF THE WALLS AND THE HUGE 0ORTA 3AN .ICCOLÛ OVERLOOKING THE !RNO &ROM EITHER OF THESE GATES YOU CAN BEGIN THE CLIMB UP TO 3AN -INIATO THE PATH FROM 0ORTA 3AN .ICCOLÛ WEAVES UP THROUGH 0IAZZALE -ICHELANGELO WITH ITS REPLICA $AVID AND BUMPER TO BUMPER TOUR COACHES THE MORE DIRECT PATH FROM 0ORTA 3AN -INIATO OFFERS A CHOICE BETWEEN THE STEEP 6IA DEL -ONTE ALLE #ROCI OR THE STEPPED 6IA DI 3AN 3ALVATORE AL -ONTE BOTH OF WHICH EMERGE A SHORT DISTANCE UPHILL FROM 0IAZZALE -ICHELANGELO
3AN -INIATO AL -ONTE
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/NE OF THE lNEST 2OMANESQUE STRUCTURES IN 4USCANY 3AN -INIATO AL -ONTE DAILY SUMMER AMnPM WINTER AMnNOON nPM IS ALSO THE OLDEST SURVIVING CHURCH BUILDING IN &LORENCE AFTER THE "APTISTERY )TS BRILLIANT MULTICOL OURED FACADE LURES TROOPS OF VISITORS UP THE HILL FROM /LTRARNO AND THE CHURCH AND ITS MAGNIlCENT INTERIOR AND WORKS OF ART MORE THAN FULlL THE PROMISE OF ITS DISTANT APPEARANCE 4HE WALK UP TO 3AN -INIATO HAS SOME STEEP SECTIONS IF YOU DONT FANCY THE CLIMB TAKE BUS OR AS FAR AS 0IAZZALE -ICHELANGELO AND THEN CONTINUE ON FOOT 4HE CHURCHS DEDICATEE 3T -INIAS WAS &LORENCES lRST HOME GROWN MARTYR 0OSSIBLY A 'REEK MERCHANT OR THE SON OF AN !RMENIAN KING HE ORIGINALLY LEFT HOME TO MAKE A PILGRIMAGE TO 2OME !ROUND HE MOVED TO &LORENCE WHERE HE BECAME CAUGHT UP IN THE ANTI #HRISTIAN PERSECUTIONS OF THE EMPEROR $ECIUS ,EGEND HAS IT THAT AFTER MARTYRDOM BY DECAPITATION n CLOSE TO THE SITE OF 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA n THE SAINTLY CORPSE WAS SEEN TO CARRY HIS SEVERED HEAD OVER THE RIVER AND UP THE HILL TO THIS SPOT AN AREA WHERE HED PREVIOUSLY LIVED AS A HERMIT A SHRINE WAS SUBSEQUENTLY ERECTED ON THE SLOPE 4HE HILL KNOWN AS -ONS &IORENTINUS WAS ALREADY THE SITE OF SEVERAL PAGAN TEMPLES AND A SECRET ORATORY DEDICATED TO 0ETER THE !POSTLE ! CHAPEL TO -INIATO IS DOCUMENTED ON THE SITE IN THE EIGHTH CENTURY THOUGH CONSTRUCTION OF THE PRESENT BUILDING BEGAN IN )NITIALLY RUN AS A "ENEDICTINE FOUNDATION THE BUILDING PASSED TO THE #LUNIACS UNTIL AND THEN TO THE /LIVETANS A "ENEDICTINE OFFSHOOT
5 3AN -INIATO AL -ONTE
WHO RESIDE HERE TO THIS DAY AND SELL THEIR FAMOUS LIQUORS HONEYS AND TISANES FROM THE SHOP NEXT TO THE CHURCH 4HE EXTERIOR
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3AN -INIATOS GORGEOUS MARBLE FACADE ALLUDES TO THE "APTISTERY IN ITS GEO METRICAL PATTERNING AND LIKE ITS MODEL THE CHURCH WAS OFTEN MISTAKEN FOR A STRUCTURE OF CLASSICAL PROVENANCE DURING THE LATER -IDDLE !GES 4HE LOWER PART OF THE FACADE IS POSSIBLY ELEVENTH CENTURY WHILE THE ANGULAR UPPER LEVELS DATE FROM THE TWELFTH CENTURY ONWARDS AND WERE lNANCED IN PART BY THE !RTE DI #ALIMALA CLOTH MERCHANTS GUILD THE BODY RESPONSIBLE FOR THE CHURCHS UPKEEP FROM THEIR TRADEMARK AN EAGLE CLUTCHING A BALE OF CLOTH PERCHES ON THE ROOF 4HE MOSAIC OF #HRIST BETWEEN THE 6IRGIN AND 3T -INIAS DATES FROM 4HE ORIGINAL BELL TOWER COLLAPSED IN AND WAS REPLACED IN THE S BY THE PRESENT CAMPANILE STILL UNlNISHED $URING THE SIEGE OF &LORENCE IT WAS USED AS AN ARTILLERY POST THUS ATTRACTING THE ATTENTION OF ENEMY GUNNERS -ICHELANGELO THEN ADVISING ON THE CITYS DEFENCES HAD IT WRAPPED IN WOOLLEN MATTRESSES TO PROTECT IT FROM CANNON BALLS 4HE INTERIOR
7ITH ITS CHOIR RAISED ON A PLATFORM ABOVE THE LARGE CRYPT THE SUBLIME INTE RIOR OF 3AN -INIATO IS LIKE NO OTHER IN THE CITY AND ITS GENERAL APPEARANCE HAS CHANGED LITTLE SINCE THE MID ELEVENTH CENTURY 4HE MAIN ADDITIONS AND DECORA TIONS IN NO WAY SPOIL ITS SERENITY THOUGH THE NINETEENTH CENTURY RECOATING OF THE MARBLE COLUMNS IS A LITTLE LURID THE COLUMNS CAPITALS HOWEVER ARE 2OMAN AND "YZANTINE ORIGINALS REMOVED FROM OLDER BUILDINGS 4HE INTRICATELY PATTERNED PANELS OF THE PAVEMENT ARE DATED SOME CLAIM THE ZODIAC AND STRANGE BEAST MOTIFS WERE INSPIRED BY 3ICILIAN FABRICS OTHERS THAT THEY ARE OF "YZANTINE ORIGIN INTRODUCED INTO )TALY THROUGH TRADE AND THE #RUSADES 4HE LOVELY TABERNACLE OR #APPELLA DEL #ROCElSSO WHICH DOMINATES THE MIDDLE OF THE NAVE WAS DESIGNED IN BY -ICHELOZZO AND IS ONE OF THE FEW WORKS COMMISSIONED BY 0IERO DE -EDICI OR 0IERO IL 'OTTOSO THE 'OUTY DUR ING HIS BRIEF TENURE AS HEAD OF THE -EDICI DYNASTY 4HE MARBLE MEDALLION TO THE REAR AND OTHER PARTS OF THE WORK ARE ADORNED WITH 0IEROS MOTTO 3EMPER AND SEVERAL -EDICI SYMBOLS n THE EAGLE HOLDING THREE FEATHERS AND A DIAMOND RING THE LATTER A SYMBOL OF DURABILITY AND TOUGHNESS 4HE CHAPEL ORIGINALLY HOUSED THE MIRACULOUS CRUCIlX ASSOCIATED WITH 3T 'IOVANNI 'UALBERTO SEE P WHICH WAS MOVED TO 3ANTA 4RÖNITA IN 4ODAY IT CONTAINS PAINTED PANELS BY !GNOLO 'ADDI DEPICTING THE !NNUNCIATION 3TORIES OF THE 0ASSION AND 33 'IOVANNI 'UALBERTO AND -INIATO n -ASO DI "ARTOLOMEO CRAFTED THE TWIN EAGLES SYMBOLS OF THE #ALIMALA TO STRESS THAT WHILE 0IERO WAS THE WORKS SPON SOR THE GUILD WAS RESPONSIBLE FOR OVERSEEING ALL STAGES OF ITS CONSTRUCTION 4HE TERRACOTTA IN THE BARREL VAULT IS BY ,UCA DELLA 2OBBIA 3TEPS EITHER SIDE OF THE CAPPELLA LEAD DOWN TO THE CRYPT THE OLDEST PART OF THE CHURCH WHERE THE ORIGINAL HIGH ALTAR STILL CONTAINS THE BONES OF 3T -INIAS 4HE VAULTS SUPPORTED BY WONDERFULLY MISMATCHED PILLARS CONTAIN GILT BACKED FRESCOES OF THE SAINTS MARTYRS PROPHETS VIRGINS AND %VANGELISTS BY 4AD DEO 'ADDI "ACK IN THE MAIN BODY OF THE CHURCH STEPS BESIDE THE #APPELLA DEL #ROCE lSSO LEAD TO THE RAISED CHOIR AND PRESBYTERY WHERE THERES A MAGNIlCENT 2OMANESQUE PULPIT AND SCREEN DATING FROM 4HE ODD TOTEM LIKE lGURES SUPPORTING THE LECTERN MAY REPRESENT THREE OF THE FOUR %VANGELISTS OR POSSIBLY HUMANITY PLACED IN A MIDDLE STATE BETWEEN THE ANIMAL WORLD THE LION AND THE DIVINE THE EAGLE 4HE GREAT MOSAIC IN THE APSE WAS CREATED IN PROBABLY
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BY THE SAME ARTIST WHO CREATED THE FACADE MOSAIC AS THEIR SUBJECTS ARE IDENTICAL n #HRIST 0ANTOCRATOR ENTHRONED BETWEEN THE 6IRGIN AND 3AINT -INIAS /FF THE PRESBYTERY LIES THE SACRISTY WHOSE WALLS ARE ALMOST COMPLETELY COVERED IN A SUPERLATIVE FRESCO CYCLE BY 3PINELLO !RETINO THE lRST SUCH COMPLETE CYCLE IN 4USCANY DEVOTED TO THE LIFE OF 3T "ENEDICT "ACK IN THE LOWER BODY OF THE CHURCH OFF THE LEFT HAND SIDE OF THE NAVE THE #APPELLA DEL #ARDINALE DEL 0ORTOGALLO DATING FROM A FEW YEARS AFTER THE #APPELLA DEL #ROCElSSO IS ONE OF THE MASTERPIECES OF 2ENAISSANCE CHAPEL DESIGN AND A MARVELLOUS EXAMPLE OF ARTISTIC COLLABORATION #OMPLETED IN IT WAS BUILT AS A MEMORIAL TO #ARDINAL *AMES OF ,USITANIA WHO DIED IN &LORENCE IN AGED JUST !SIDE FROM THAT OF -INIAS HIMSELF THIS IS n REMARKABLY n THE CHURCHS ONLY TOMB 4HE CHAPELS BASIC DESIGN WAS THE WORK OF !NTONIO DI -ANETTO OR -ANETTI A PUPIL AND BIOGRAPHER OF "RUNELLESCHI WHO BORROWED HEAVILY FROM HIS MASTERS WORK IN 3AN ,ORENZOS 3AGRESTIA 6ECCHIA SEE P 4HE TOMB ITSELF WAS CARVED BY !NTONIO AND "ERNARDO 2OSSELLINO THEIR ELDER BROTHER 'IOVANNI OVERSAW THE CHAPELS CONSTRUCTION AFTER -ANETTOS DEATH !NTONIO 2OSSELLINOS TONDO OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD KEEPS WATCH OVER THE DECEASED 4HE CHAPELS ARCHITECTURAL AND SCULPTURAL WORK WAS FOLLOWED IN BY CAREFULLY INTEGRATED FRESCOES AND PAINTINGS AN !NNUNCIATION TO THE LEFT AND THE %VANGELISTS AND $OCTORS OF THE #HURCH BY !LESSO "ALDOVINETTI LUNETTES AND BESIDE THE ARCHES !NTONIO AND 0IERO DEL 0OLLAIUOLO PRODUCED THE ALTARPIECE DEPICTING THE CARDINALS PATRON SAINT 3T *AMES WITH 33 6INCENT AND %USTACE THE PRESENT PICTURE IS A COPY THE ORIGINAL BEING IN THE 5FlZI 4HE CEILINGS TILED DECORATION AND FOUR GLAZED TER RACOTTA MEDALLIONS PERHAPS THE lNEST SUCH WORK IN THE CITY WERE PROVIDED BY ,UCA DELLA 2OBBIA !LL THE DECORATIVE DETAILS WERE CAREFULLY DESIGNED TO COMPLE MENT ONE ANOTHER AND CREATE A UNIlED ARTISTIC WHOLE 4HUS 2OSSELLINOS TONDO OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD FOR EXAMPLE ECHOES THE ROUND WINDOWS OF THE WALLS THE COLOURS IN "ALDOVINETTIS !NNUNCIATION DELIBERATELY ECHO THE TONES OF THE SUR ROUNDING PORPHYRY AND SERPENTINE INLAYS AND THE CURTAIN HELD ASIDE BY ANGELS ON THE CARDINALS TOMB IS REPEATED IN A SIMILAR CURTAIN HALF SHIELDING THE ALTAR
&ROM THE &ORTE DI "ELVEDERE TO 3AN ,EON ARDO IN !RCETRI
4HE &ORTE DI "ELVEDERE STANDING ON THE CREST OF THE HILL ABOVE THE "ØBOLI GAR DEN WAS BUILT BY "UONTALENTI ON THE ORDERS OF &ERDINANDO ) BETWEEN AND OSTENSIBLY TO PROTECT THE CITY BUT IN FACT TO INTIMIDATE THE GRAND DUKES SUBJECTS 4HE URBAN PANORAMA FROM HERE IS SUPERB AND AMBITIOUS EXHIBITIONS ARE OFTEN HELD IN AND AROUND THE SHED LIKE PALACE IN THE CENTRE OF THE FORTRESS AS ARE OCCASIONAL SUMMER EVENING lLM SCREENINGS 4HE CITYS NEW -USEO DELLE !RME !RMS AND !RMOUR -USEUM IS ALSO DUE TO OPEN HERE SOON )N THE PAST IT HAS SOMETIMES BEEN POSSIBLE TO GET UP TO THE FORT FROM THE "ØBO LI GARDENS BUT IF YOU WANT TO BE CERTAIN OF GETTING IN APPROACH THE FORT FROM THE #OSTA DI 3AN 'IORGIO A LANE WHICH YOU CAN REACH BY BACKTRACKING SLIGHTLY FROM THE -USEO "ARDINI OR PICK UP DIRECTLY FROM THE REAR OF 3ANTA &ELÖCITA ,OOK OUT FOR THE VILLA AT NO HOME TO 'ALILEO BETWEEN AND %AST FROM THE "ELVEDERE STRETCHES THE BEST PRESERVED SECTION OF &LORENCES FORTIlED WALLS PARALLELED BY 6IA DI "ELVEDERE 3OUTH OF THE "ELVEDERE 6IA 3AN ,EONARDO LEADS PAST OLIVE GROVES TO THE RARELY OPEN CHURCH OF 3AN ,EONARDO IN !RCETRI DAILY AMnNOON SITE OF A BEAUTIFUL THIRTEENTH CENTURY PULPIT BROUGHT HERE FROM A CHURCH NOW INCORPORATED INTO THE 5FlZI $ANTE AND "OC CACCIO ARE BOTH SAID TO HAVE PREACHED FROM THE SPOT
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&OR A SMALL CITY &LORENCE HAS PLENTY OF BIG CITY ATTRACTIONS SCORES OF CAFÏS AND RESTAURANTS A FULL CALENDAR OF CULTURAL EVENTS AND A LOT OF VERY CHIC SHOPS TO GIVE FOCUS TO THE EVENING PASSEGGIATA 4HE MAIN PROBLEM IS ONE OF IDENTITY IN A CITY WHOSE INHABITANTS ARE HEAVILY OUTNUMBERED BY OUTSIDERS FROM -ARCH TO /CTOBER 2ESTAURANT STANDARDS ARE OFTEN PATCHY AND PRICES PITCHED AT WHATEVER LEVEL THE TOURISTS CAN BEAR WHILE MANY OF THE LOCALS SWEAR THERES SCARCELY A SINGLE GENUINE 4USCAN PLACE LEFT IN THE 4USCAN CAPITAL n AN EXAGGERATION OF COURSE BUT A REmECTION OF A GENERAL FEELING THAT TOO MUCH HAS BEEN LOST TO TOURISM 9ET THE SITUATION IS NOWHERE NEAR AS BAD AS SOME REPORTS WOULD HAVE IT AND IF ANYTHING ITS BEEN IMPROVING IN RECENT YEARS WITH THE APPEARANCE OF SEVERAL STYLISH AND GOOD VALUE RESTAURANTS ALONGSIDE SOME SUPERB WINE BARS !S FOR NIGHTLIFE THE UNIVERSITY AND THE INmUX OF LANGUAGE STUDENTS KEEP THINGS LIVELY AND SEASONAL EVENTS SUCH AS THE -AGGIO -USICALE MAINTAIN &LORENCES STANDING AS THE HUB OF CULTURAL LIFE IN 4USCANY
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2ESTAURANTS )N GASTRONOMIC CIRCLES &LORENTINE CUISINE IS ACCORDED AS MUCH REVERENCE AS &LORENTINE ART A REVERENCE ENCAPSULATED IN THE MYTH THAT &RENCH EATING HABITS ACQUIRED THEIR SOPHISTICATION IN THE WAKE OF #ATHERINE DE -EDICIS MARRIAGE TO
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THE FUTURE (ENRY )) OF &RANCE )N FACT &LORENTINE FOOD HAS ALWAYS BEEN CHARAC TERIZED BY MODEST RAW MATERIALS AND SIMPLE TECHNIQUE BEEFSTEAK BISTECCA TRIPE TRIPPA AND LIVER FEGATO ARE TYPICAL INGREDIENTS WHILE GRILLING ALLA &IORENTINA IS A FAVOURED METHOD OF PREPARATION )N ADDITION WHITE BEANS FAGIOLI WILL FEATURE ON MOST MENUS EITHER ON THEIR OWN GARNISHED WITH LIBERAL QUANTITIES OF LOCAL OLIVE OIL OR AS THE BASIS OF SUCH DISHES AS RIBOLLITA 4HERE ARENT MANY RESTAURANTS WHERE YOU CAN GET AWAY WITH SPENDING LESS THAN E PER PERSON FOR THREE COURSES PLUS WINE ALTHOUGH &LORENCE HAS SOME DECENT LOW BUDGET PLACES SERVING FOOD THAT AT LEAST GIVE SOME IDEA OF THE REGIONS CHAR ACTERISTIC DISHES AND EVEN THE SIMPLEST TRATTORIA SHOULD OFFER BISTECCA ALLA &IORENTINA n THOUGH YOU SHOULD BEAR IN MIND THAT THIS DISH IS PRICED PER HUNDRED GRAMS SO YOUR BILL WILL BE CONSIDERABLY HIGHER THAN THE lGURE WRITTEN ON THE MENU !ND OF COURSE IF THE BUDGET IS TIGHT THERES ALWAYS THE OPTION OF A PIZZERIA &LORENCE HAS SEVERAL VERY GOOD ONES USUALLY CHARGING IN THE REGION OF +n 4HE RESTAURANTS BELOW ARE ORGANIZED BY AREA 6ERY ROUGHLY THE CHEAPEST PLACES TEND TO BE NEAR THE STATION AND 3AN ,ORENZO MARKET WHILE THE MAIN CONCEN TRATIONS OF MID RANGE AND TOP CLASS RESTAURANTS ARE AROUND 3ANTA #ROCE AND 3ANT!MBROGIO AND OVER IN THE /LTRARNO 9OU CAN OF COURSE KEEP COSTS DOWN EVEN IN MORE EXPENSIVE PLACES BY HAVING JUST TWO COURSES PASTA AND MAIN AND RETIRING TO A BAR FOR ICE CREAM OR COFFEE AND DIGESTIF 2EMEMBER TOO THAT YOU OFTEN NEEDNT BUY A WHOLE BOTTLE OF WINE ASK FOR A HALF BOTTLE OR QUARTER BOT TLE OR JUG OF HOUSE WINE MEZZA BOTTIGLIA OR UN QUARTINO !NOTHER USEFUL TIP IS THAT ANY PLACE DISPLAYING THE 3LOW &OOD SIGN IS LIKELY TO BE GOOD FOUNDED IN THE 3LOW &OOD MOVEMENT PROMOTES THE USE OF FRESH LOCAL FOOD AND WELL EXECUTED COOKING -ANY RESTAURANTS ARE CLOSED ON 3UNDAY SO IF YOU WANT TO BE SURE OF A TABLE ITS A GOOD IDEA TO MAKE A RESERVATION FOR THAT NIGHT !ND BEAR IN MIND THAT MEALS n NOT JUST SNACKS n ARE SERVED IN MANY &LORENTINE BARS AND CAFÏS SO IF YOURE EXPLORING A PARTICULAR AREA OF THE CITY AND FANCY A QUICK BITE TO EAT RATHER THAN A FULL BLOWN RESTAURANT MEAL TAKE A LOOK AT THE RELEVANT SECTION IN THE h#AFÏS AND BARSv AND h7INE BARSv LISTINGS BELOW 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA !NTICO &ATTORE 6IA ,AMBERTESCA nR 3IMPLE 4USCAN DISHES DOMINATE THE MENU AND THE SOUPS ARE PARTICULARLY GOOD CLOSE TO THE 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA BUT NOT AS EXPEN SIVE AS THE LOCALE MIGHT SUGGEST 3ERVICE CAN BE GRIM THOUGH -AINS COST AROUND +n #LOSED 3UN PLUS 3AT IN SUMMER -ON IN WINTER !UG $A 'ANINO 0IAZZA DEI #IMATORI R OFF 6IA $ANTE !LIGHIERI /NE OF ONLY A HANDFUL OF RECOMMENDABLE PLACES CLOSE TO THE 3IGNORIA 0RODUCES GOOD HOMEMADE PASTAS AND DESSERTS THOUGH THE PRICES REmECT THE LOCALE AS MUCH AS THE QUALITY OF THE KITCHEN n MAINS FROM + )N SUMMER WHEN TABLES ARE MOVED OUT ONTO THE TINY SQUARE ITS ESSENTIAL TO BOOK -ONn3AT PMnAM
7EST OF THE CENTRE
"ELLE $ONNE 6IA DELLE "ELLE $ONNE R ! TINY CONVIVIAL FAUX RUSTIC TRATTORIA WHERE YOU SIT ELBOW TO ELBOW ON BARE BENCHES AND STOOLS UNDER SWAGS OF FOLIAGE DRINKING YOUR WINE FROM A TUMBLER .OT A PLACE TO LINGER OVER YOUR MEAL BUT ITS HONEST
FOOD CHEERFULLY PRESENTED AT HONEST PRICES n MAIN COURSES +n n AND SERVES UP SEASONAL SPECIALI TIES SUCH AS BACCELLI RAW BROAD BEANS IN THEIR PODS WITH PECORINO /PEN EVERY DAY EXCEPT FOR !UGUST WHEN ITS SHUT FOR THE ANNUAL HOLIDAY )L #ONTADINO 6IA 0ALAZZUOLO R 3MALL POPULAR PLACE WITH SIMPLE BLACK AND WHITE INTERIOR AND FASCINATING LARGE PHOTOS OF OLD &LORENCE ON THE WALLS &AST FRIENDLY SERVICE SHARED TABLES NO BOOKING VERY CHEAP BUT GOOD FARE &IXED PRICE FOR THREE COURSE LUNCH AND DINNER AROUND + PLUS A SMALL EXTRA CHARGE FOR A QUARTINO OF WINE .O WRITTEN MENU THE FOUR OR SO CHOICES FOR EACH COURSE ARE RECITED RAPIDLY $AILY NOONnPM nPM )L ,ATINI 6IA DEI 0ALCHETTI R /NCE A TRATTORIA OF THE OLD SCHOOL THE QUASI LEGENDARY ,ATINI IS NOW SOMETHING OF A CARICATURE OF ITSELF )T STILL LOOKS THE PART n HAMS HANGING FROM THE CEILING FAMILY PHOTOS ON THE WALL SIMPLE TABLES AND OLD RUSH CHAIRS &OOD QUALITY THOUGH IS AVERAGE THE BISTECCA IS AN HONOURABLE EXCEPTION AND PRICES WELL ABOVE THOSE OF MOST TRATTORIAS MAINS FROM
,A ,AMPARA 6IA .AZIONALE R 4HE NARROW ENTRANCE IS DECEPTIVE THIS IS A HUGE PLACE THAT GOES BACK AND BACK AND HAS A TERRACE TOO AT THE REAR $ONT BE PUT OFF BY THE MULTILINGUAL MENUS THE FOOD IS VERY GOOD THE PRICES MODERATE MAINS +n AND THE WAITERS ATTENTIVE 0ACKED WITH LOCALS AT LUNCHTIME AND EVENING SO TRY TO BOOK A TABLE $AILY NOONnMIDNIGHT .UTI "ORGO 3AN ,ORENZO R 4HIS MASSIVE PLACE WITH A RESTAURANT ON ONE SIDE OF THE STREET AND A PIZZERIA ON THE OTHER CLAIMS TO BE THE OLDEST PIZZERIA IN TOWN THE MENU ISNT LIMITED TO PIZZAS AND PRICES ARE REASONABLE PIZZAS FROM + TWO COURSE MENUS FROM + n THOUGH THE SERVICE SOMETIMES ISNT /PEN PMnAM #LOSED 3UN IN WINTER /LIANDOLO 6IA 2ICASOLI nR ! SMALL FAST AND VERY CHEAP SPOT DISHES FROM + THATS VERY POPULAR WITH LOCALS AT LUNCHTIME n YOULL PROBABLY HAVE TO QUEUE IF YOU COME AFTER PM 'OOD ROAST PORK AND BEANS AND EXCELLENT BAKED CHEESECAKE -ONn3AT AMnPM
\
.ORTH OF THE CENTRE
0ALLE D/RO 6IA 3ANT!NTONINO R #LOSE TO 3AN ,ORENZO MARKET THIS IS THE PLAINEST POSSIBLE TYPE OF TRATTORIA SERVING VERY GOOD FARE n SUCH AS CHICKEN IN A GREEN PEPPERCORN SAUCE FOR + 0ACKED AT LUNCHTIME "ESIDES FULL MEALS THEY DO SANDWICHES TO TAKE AWAY -ONn3AT NOONn PM nPM :Ì :Ì 0IAZZA DEL -ERCATO #ENTRALE R WWWTRATTORIAZAZAIT )N BUSINESS FOR MORE THAN TWENTY YEARS AND PERHAPS THE BEST OF SEVERAL TRATTORIAS CLOSE TO THE -ERCATO #ENTRALE )N RECENT YEARS IT HAS RAISED ITS PROlLE TO THE EXTENT THAT BOOKING IS VIRTUALLY OBLIGATORY IN SUMMER 4HE INTERIOR IS DARK STONE WALLED AND BRICK ARCHED WITH A HANDFUL OF TABLES n THOUGH IN SUMMER THERE ARE MORE TABLES ON THE OUTSIDE TERRACES 4HERES USUALLY A SET PRICE MENU FOR LESS THAN + WHICH OFFERS A CHOICE OF THREE OR FOUR PASTAS AND MAIN COURSES OTHERWISE YOULL PAY AROUND +n PER HEAD 4HE OMELETTE WITH A CREAMY TRUFmE SAUCE IS EXQUISITE + AND THE MIXED ANTIPASTI ARE GENEROUS AND TASTY $AILY AMnPM CLOSED !UG
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+ /LD REGULARS STILL EAT HERE BUT YOULL lND THE QUEUES IN THE EVENINGS BOOKING IS DIFlCULT ARE FULL OF FOREIGNERS AMnMIDNIGHT CLOSED -ON LUNCH 4UES -ARIONE 6IA DELLA 3PADA R WWWMARIONElRENZENET 3IMPLE GOOD VALUE 4USCAN COOKING AT PRICES THAT ARE A PLEASANT SURPRISE FOR THIS LOCATION A STONES THROW FROM 6IA 4ORNABUONI %XPECT TO PAY +n PER PERSON $AILY NOONnPM nPM #LOSED lRST TWO WEEKS OF !UG /LIVIERO 6IA DELLE 4ERME R #URRENTLY ENJOYS A REPUTA TION FOR SOME OF &LORENCES BEST FOOD )T HAS A WEL COMING AND OLD FASHIONED FEEL n SOMETHING LIKE AN )TALIAN RESTAURANT OF THE S 4HE INNOVATIVE FOOD IS PREDOMINANTLY 4USCAN BUT INCLUDES OTHER )TALIAN DISHES DESSERTS FOR ONCE ARE EXCELLENT 4HE MENU INCLUDES FRESH lSH WHEN AVAILABLE SOMETHING OF A RARITY IN &LORENCE %XPECT TO PAY UPWARDS OF + WITHOUT WINE -ONn3AT AMnPM PMnAM #LOSED !UG /STERIA DEI #ENTO 0OVERI 6IA 0ALAZZUOLO R ! SMALL AND BUSY RESTAURANT YOU WONT BE THE ONLY TOURIST HERE WITH A STRONG 0UGLIESE ACCENT AND OFFERING MORE lSH THAN IS CUS TOMARY IN THIS CITY 4HE LOBSTER GNOCCHI + IS AN INTERESTING NOVELTY n THE PASTA IS MADE ACROSS THE ROAD n AND THERES ALWAYS A lSH OF THE DAY &AIRLY EXPENSIVE WITH MAIN COURSES AT AROUND + -AYn3EPT 4UESn3UN PMnMIDNIGHT 3UN AMn PM /CTn!PRIL ALSO OPEN FOR LUNCH 4UESn3AT
%AST OF THE CENTRE !CQUA AL $UE 6IA DELL!CQUA R6IA DELLA 6IGNA 6ECCHIA R !LWAYS PACKED OFTEN WITH FOREIGNERS BUT WITH )TALIANS TOO CHIEmY ON ACCOUNT OF ITS OFFBEAT DECOR LIVELY ATMOSPHERE AND ASSAGGIO DI PRIMI n A SUCCESSION OF PASTA DISHES SHARED BY EVERYONE AT THE TABLE %VENINGS ONLY MAIN COURSES FROM AROUND + !LLE -URATE 6IA 0ROCONSOLO R ! HIGHLY REGARDED AND VERY SLICK OPERATION RECENTLY RELOCATED TO A MAGNIlCENT FRESCOED OLD BUILDING THAT BOASTS THE EARLIEST KNOWN PORTRAIT OF $ANTE )T OFFERS A COUPLE OF TEMPTING SET MENUS BUT ONLY IF ALL THE PEOPLE AT THE TABLE ORDER THEM AND THE WINE VAULT IS FAMOUSLY WELL STOCKED 9OU PAY FOR THE QUALITY STARTERS COST + AND MAIN COURSES ARE +n 4UESn3UN PMnAM "ALDOVINO 6IA 3AN 'IUSEPPE R WWWBALDOVINOCOM 2UN BY AN ENTERPRISING 3COTTISH COUPLE "ALDOVINO IS RENOWNED ABOVE ALL FOR ITS PIZZAS MADE IN A WOOD lRED OVEN ACCORDING TO .EAPOLITAN PRINCIPLES BUT THE MAIN MENU WHICH CHANGES MONTHLY IS FULL OF EXCELLENT 4USCAN AND )TALIAN DISHES WITH MAINS AROUND +n n ALTHOUGH YOU PAY THE USUAL PRE MIUM FOR THE SUCCULENT BISTECCA ALLA &IORENTINA )TS VERY MUCH ON THE TOURIST MAP NOW BUT STANDARDS REMAIN HIGH AND PORTIONS VERY GENEROUS 4UESn3UN AMnPM PMnAM "ENVENUTO 6IA DELLA -OSCA R CORNER 6IA DE .ERI *UST A COUPLE OF MINUTES WALK FROM 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA THIS PLACE HAS BEEN AROUND FOR YEARS
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AND MAINTAINS ITS REPUTATION FOR LOW PRICES 7HAT IT LACKS IN ATMOSPHERE IT MAKES UP FOR WITH RELIABLE COOKING -AINS FROM + #LOSED 7ED 3UN #IBRÒO 6IA DE -ACCI R 4HE #IBRÒO RESTAURANT n WHICH HAS NOW SPAWNED A CAFÏ TRATTORIA AND SHOP n IS THE lRST &LORENTINE PORT OF CALL FOR MANY FOODIES HAVING ACHIEVED FAME WELL BEYOND THE CITY 4HE RECIPE FOR SUCCESS IS SIMPLE SUPERB FOOD WITH A CREATIVE TAKE ON 4USCAN CLASSICS IN A TASTEFUL DINING ROOM WITH FRIENDLY AND PROFESSIONAL SERVICE 9OULL NEED TO BOOK DAYS IN ADVANCE FOR A TABLE IN THE MAIN PART OF THE RESTAURANT BUT NEXT DOOR THERES A SMALL SOMEWHAT SPARTAN AND SOMETIMES OVERLY BUSY TRATTORIA SECTION CALLED #IBREINO WHERE THE FOOD IS VIRTUALLY THE SAME NO BOOKINGS ARE TAKEN AND THE PRICES ARE MUCH LOWER AROUND + FOR THE MAIN COURSE AS OPPOSED TO + IN THE RESTAURANT AMnPM nPM #LOSED 3UN -ON ALL !UG %NOTECA 0INCHIORRI 6IA 'HIBELLINA WWWENOTECAPINCHIORRICOM .O ONE SERIOUSLY DISPUTES THE 0INCHIORRIS CLAIM TO BE &LORENCES BEST RESTAURANT CERTAINLY NOT -ICHELIN WHOVE GIVEN IT THREE OF THEIR COVETED ROSETTES 4HE FOOD IS AS MAGNIlCENT AS YOUD EXPECT GIVEN THE PLAUDITS BUT THE CEREMONY THAT SURROUNDS ITS PRESENTATION STRIKES MANY AS EXCESSIVE #HOOSE FROM DIFFERENT WINES INCLUDING SOME OF THE RAREST AND MOST EXPENSIVE VINTAGES ON THE PLANET .ONE OF THIS COMES CHEAP n YOU COULD EASILY SPEND IN EXCESS OF + PER PERSON EXCLUDING WINE n BUT THERES NOWHERE BETTER FOR THE NEVER TO BE REPEATED &LORENTINE TREAT *UST MAKE SURE YOUVE PACKED YOUR BEST OUTlT #LOSED -ON 7ED LUNCH ALL DAY 3UN !UG &RANCESCANO ,ARGO "ARGELLINI &RANCESCANO BEGAN LIFE AS A SIBLING OF "ALDOVINO AND THOUGH IT IS NOW INDEPENDENTLY OWNED STILL OFFERS SIMILARLY GOOD FOOD IN A FRIENDLY CLEAN CUT SETTING 4HE MENU IS SIMPLER SMALLER AND A LITTLE LESS EXPENSIVE THAN AT "ALDOVINO .OONnPM nPM /CTn-AY CLOSED 4UES )L 0IZZAIUOLO 6IA DE -ACCI R -ANY &LORENTINES RECKON THE PIZZAS HERE ARE THE BEST IN THE CITY 7INES AND OTHER MENU ITEMS HAVE A .EAPOLITAN TOUCH AS DOES THE ATMOSPHERE WHICH IS FRIENDLY AND HIGH SPIRITED "OOKINGS A GOOD IDEA AT LEAST IN THE EVENING 4HE KITCHEN STAYS OPEN UNTIL A LITTLE AFTER MIDNIGHT nPM PMnAM #LOSED 3UN !UG ,!NTICO .OÒ 6OLTA DI 3AN 0IERO R 3ITUATED NEXT DOOR TO THE VINAIO OF THE SAME NAME THIS TINY TRATTORIA HAS A VERY INSALUBRIOUS SETTING YOULL DOUBTLESS PASS A DRUNK OR TWO ON YOUR WAY TO THE DOOR BUT THE FOOD IS
lNE AND THE PRICES LOW n MAINS FROM + -ONn3AT NOONnPM nPM ,A 0ENTOLA DELL/RO 6IA DI -EZZO R 2UN BY 'IUSEPPE !LESSI THE OWNER OF A lNE UPMARKET RESTAURANT IN &IE SOLE ,A 0ENTOLA HAS ONE OF THE MORE IMAGINATIVE MENUS IN &LORENCE MINGLING THE INNOVATIVE WITH THE PROFOUNDLY TRADITIONAL SOME RECIPES DATE BACK TO THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY 4HE MAIN BASEMENT RESTAURANT ISNT THE COSIEST OF DINING ROOMS BUT THE QUALITY IS DIFlCULT TO MATCH FOR THE PRICE %XPECT TO PAY UPWARDS OF + OR A LITTLE LESS IN THE MORE INFORMAL GROUND mOOR SECTION WHICH FOCUSES ON TRADITIONAL RATHER THAN ARISTOCRATIC CUISINE -ONn3AT NOONnPM PMnMIDNIGHT .ATALINO "ORGO DEGLI !LBIZI R 3LIGHLY PRICIER THAN YOUR AVERAGE TRATTORIA BUT EXCEL LENT FOOD UNTOURISTY FOR THE LOCATION AND HAS OUT SIDE TABLES 4HE TRUFmED COURGETTES WITH PECORINO ARE ASTOUNDING 4UESn3UN NOONnPM nPM /STERIA #AFFÒ )TALIANO 6IA )SOLA DELLE 3TINCHE nR 4HE HIGH VAULTED CEILINGS LEND A MEDIEVAL TOUCH TO THIS CAFÏ WINE BAR AND RESTAURANT BUT THE CLIENTELE ARE Ì LA MODE &LOREN TINE n SMART BUT RELAXED 4HE CUISINE IS TYPICALLY 4USCAN n LOTS OF BEEF VEAL AND WILD BOAR n AND lRST RATE EVEN THE CAKES EXPECT TO PAY UPWARDS OF + PER HEAD 4UESn3UN AMnAM /STERIA DE "ENCI 6IA DE "ENCI R ! MODERN BUSY AND REASONABLY PRICED OSTERIA WITH A BAR NEXT DOOR 4HE INTERIOR IS PRETTY AND PLEASANT AND IS AUGMENTED BY OUT SIDE TABLES WHEN ITS WARM ENOUGH n IN SUMMER IT ATTRACTS BIG CROWDS 4HE TABLES HAVE PAPER TABLECLOTHS AND YOU EAT OFF CHUNKY CERAMIC PLATES 4HE MODERATELY PRICED MENU OFFERS WELL PREPARED STANDARDS PLUS INNOVATIVE 4USCAN CUISINE 4HE STRAWBERRY RISOTTO IS AN UNEXPECTED AND DELICIOUS STARTER + AND THE GOLOSO AND PICCANTE STEAKS ARE VERY GOOD 3TAFF ARE YOUNG AND THE ATMOSPHERE FRIENDLY 2ESTAURANT OPEN -ONn3AT nPM nPM BAR OPEN AMnMIDNIGHT 2UTHS 6IA ,UIGI #ARLO &ARINI A .EXT TO THE SYNAGOGUE THIS IS ONE OF THE FEW KOSHER PLACES IN &LORENCE AND IS GETTING A REPUTATION AS A GOOD VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT -AINS +n /PEN nPM nPM CLOSED &RI EVE 3AT LUNCHTIME
/LTRARNO !LL!NTICO 2ISTORO DI #AMBI 6IA 3ANT/NOFRIO R WWWANTICORISTORODICAMBIIT 2UN BY THE SAME FAMILY SINCE THE S THIS ROUGH AND READY TRATTORIA IS PARTICULARLY GOOD FOR MEATY &LORENTINE STANDARDS SUCH AS WILD BOAR AND STEAK AND HAS A VERY GOOD WINE LIST )TS VAST BUT NONE
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THELESS GETS PACKED ON A 3ATURDAY NIGHT WHEN EVEN THE LARGE TERRACE lLLS UP -AIN DISHES FROM + -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM !LLA 6ECCHIA "ETTOLA 6IALE ,ODOVICO !RIOSTO nR ,OCATED ON A MAJOR TRAFlC INTERSECTION A COUPLE OF MINUTES WALK FROM THE #ARMINE THIS PLACE n WITH ITS LONG TABLES n HAS SOMETHING OF THE ATMOSPHERE OF A DRINKING DEN WHICH IS WHAT IT ONCE WAS THE MENU BOASTS A GOOD REPERTOIRE OF 4USCAN MEAT DISHES WITH MAIN COURS ES REASONABLY PRICED FROM + .OONnPM nPM #LOSED 3UN -ON "ECCOlNO 0IAZZA DEGLI 3CARLATTI R WWWBECCOlNOCOM 4HE MOST UPMARKET VENTURE FROM $AVID 'ARDNER THE 3COT TISH BOSS OF "ALDOVINO SEE P n INDEED SOME MIGHT lND ITS COOKING AND EXPENSIVELY AUSTERE DECOR A BIT TOO SELF CONSCIOUSLY CUTTING EDGE 0RICES ARE ABOVE AVERAGE n +n FOR SECONDI n BUT SO IS THE QUALITY )F YOUD LIKE TO TEST THE WATERS lRST
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HAVE A DRINK AT THE ATTACHED WINE BAR 4UESn3UN nPM PLUS 3UN LUNCH "ORGO !NTICO 0IAZZA DI 3ANTO 3PIRITO R 4HE SPARTAN CHIC OF "ORGO !NTI COS WHITE TILE AND PINK PLASTER DECOR REmECTS THE INCREASINGLY TRENDY CHARACTER OF THIS ONCE NOTORIOUSLY SLEAZY /LTRARNO PIAZZA AND THERES NO /LTRARNO RESTAURANT TRENDIER THAN THIS PLACE )TS USUALLY VERY CROWDED AND NOISY THE SOUNDTRACK CAN BE A BIT RELENTLESS THOUGH IN SUMMER THE TABLES OUTSIDE OFFER RELATIVE QUIET #HOOSE FROM A MENU OF PIZZAS OR A RANGE OF 4USCAN STANDARDS AT REASONABLE PRICES +n 3ALADS HERE ARE GOOD AND THERES OFTEN A SELECTION OF FRESH lSH AND SEA FOOD PASTAS 3ERVINGS n ON THE RESTAURANTS FAMOUS HUGE PLATES n ARE GENEROUS TO A FAULT /PEN DAILY NOONnMIDNIGHT $ANTE 0IAZZA .AZARIO 3AURO R $ANTE IS ANOTHER /LTRARNO INSTITUTION POPULAR MAINLY FOR ITS PIZZAS + THOUGH IT ALSO OFFERS A MENU OF
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PASTA lSH AND MEAT DISHES FROM + FOR MAINS #LOSED 7ED LAST WEEKS OF !UG $EL #ARMINE 0IAZZA DEL #ARMINE R 9EARS AGO THIS WAS AN UNSUNG LOCAL TRATTORIA NOW THE TOURISTS HAVE TAKEN OVER BUT IT HASNT ALTOGETHER LOST ITS SOUL 5NCOMPLICATED &LORENTINE COOKING WITH A FREQUENTLY CHANGING MENU -ONn3AT NOONnPM nPM ) 4AROCCHI 6IA DEI 2ENAI R 4HERE ARE A FEW SIMPLE DISHES ON THE MENU BUT THIS IS ESSENTIALLY AN INEXPENSIVE PIZZERIA n AND ONE OF THE BEST IN THE CITY 4UESn&RI nPM nPM 3AT 3UN nPM ONLY #LOSED -ON )L 'USCIO 6IA DELL/RTO ! LONG ESTABLISHED UPPER RANGE /LTRANO FAVOURITE HIGH QUALITY 4USCAN MEAT DISHES HOME MADE PASTA AND SUPERB DESSERTS PLUS A WIDE RANGING WINE LIST %VENINGS ONLY CLOSED 3AT !UG ,A #ASALINGA 6IA DEL -ICHELOZZO R ,OCATED IN A SIDE STREET OFF 0IAZZA DI 3ANTA 3PIRITO THIS LONG ESTABLISHED FAMI LY RUN TRATTORIA SERVES UP SOME OF THE BEST LOW COST 4USCAN DISHES IN TOWN + FOR A SECONDO .O FRILLS n PAPER TABLECLOTHS SO SO HOUSE WINE BY THE mASK AND BRISK SERVICE n BUT MOST NIGHTS ITS lLLED WITH REGULARS AND A GOOD FEW OUTSIDERS #LOSED 3UN LAST WEEKS OF !UG /STERIA 3ANTO 3PIRITO 0IAZZA DI 3ANTO 3PIRITO R6IA 3ANT !GOSTINO 2UN BY THE OWNERS OF THE "ORGO !NTICO SEE ABOVE THIS OSTERIA IS PART OF THE NEW WAVE OF &LORENTINE RESTAURANTS )NFORMAL AND MODERN ITS WALLS ARE PAINTED DEEP RED AND BLUE AND THE LIGHTING IS BRIGHT OVER HEARTY 4USCAN DISHES PRESENTED WITH CONTEMPORARY mAIR
4ABLES ARE ON TWO mOORS AND IN SUMMER YOU CAN EAT OUTDOORS ON THE PIAZZA 0ASTA DISHES +n MAINS +n /PEN DAILY UNTIL MIDNIGHT 0ANE E 6INO 0IAZZA DI #ESTELLO R 0ANE E 6INO BEGAN LIFE AS A BAR OVER BY 3AN .ICCOLÛ SO ITS NO SURPRISE THAT THE WINE LIST IS EXCELLENT AND WELL PRICED WITH BOTTLES FROM + )N ITS NEW HOME THE AMBIENCE IS STYLISH YET RELAXED AND THE MENU SMALL PRIMI AROUND + SECONDI + FEATURING A VERY ENTIC ING MENU DEGUSTAZIONE + 3MALL 46 SCREENS IN THE DINING AREA SHOW THE CHEFS BEAVERING AWAY IN THE KITCHEN PRODUCING SOME OF THE BEST FOOD IN TOWN n THE RAVIOLI WITH ASPARAGUS IN A LEMON CREAM MELTS IN YOUR MOUTH -ONn3AT PMnAM 1UATTRO ,EONI 6IA DEI 6ELLUTINI R0IAZZA DELLA 0ASSERA WWWLEONICOM /CCUPYING A THREE ROOMED MEDIEVAL INTERIOR THIS IS A YOUNG RELAXED PLACE WITH WOODEN BEAMS AND SPLASHY MODERN PAINTINGS STRUNG ACROSS THE ROUGH STONE WALLS )N SUMMER YOU CAN ALSO EAT ALFRESCO UNDER VAST CANVAS UMBRELLAS IN THE TINY 0IAZZA DELLA 0ASSERA n ONE OF THE MOST APPEALING OUTDOOR EATING VENUES IN THE CITY )TS POPULAR WITH VISITING STARS n $USTIN (OFMANN AND 3TING FEATURE ON THE WALLS AND !NTHONY (OPKINS ATE HERE WHILE lLMING (ANNIBAL &OR EVERYONE ELSE BOOKING IS ESSENTIAL 9OU CAN EAT VERY WELL FOR AROUND + A HEAD .OONnPM nPM CLOSED 7ED LUNCH 3ABATINO 6IA 0ISANA R 3ITUATED RIGHT BY 0ORTA 3AN &REDIANO THIS OLD FASHIONED NO FRILLS LONG RUNNING FAMILY TRATTORIA IS NOT A GOURMET VENUE BUT ITS EXCELLENT VALUE AND THE ATMOSPHERE IS ALWAYS TERRIlC #LOSED 3AT 3UN !UG
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6IRTUALLY EVERY STREET IN CENTRAL &LORENCE HAS A CAFÏ OR BAR OF SOME SORT WHAT FOLLOWS IS A GUIDE TO THE BEST AND THE MOST POPULAR 0REDICTABLY ENOUGH THERES A HEAVY CONCENTRATION ON AND AROUND THE BIG TOURIST STREETS AND SQUARES 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO 6IA DEI #ALZAIUOLI AND SO ON -ANY OF THESE ARE EXPENSIVE AND CHARACTERLESS BUT SOME n AS LISTED BELOW n ARE EXPENSIVE AND VERY GOOD ESPECIALLY WHEN IT COMES TO CAKES AND OTHER SWEET DELICACIES 4O lND PLACES WHERE PRICES ARE LOWER AND NON &LORENTINE FACES FEWER ONLY A LITTLE EFFORT IS NEEDED A SHORT WALK EAST FROM THE 3IGNORIA GETS YOU INTO THE BURGEON ING 3ANTA #ROCE AREA AND ITS JUST AS EASY TO GET OVER INTO THE /LTRARNO THE MOST AUTHENTIC QUARTER OF THE HISTORIC CENTRE !S ELSEWHERE IN )TALY THE DISTINCTION BETWEEN BARS AND CAFÏS IS TRICKY TO THE POINT OF IMPOSSIBILITY AS ALMOST EVERY CAFÏ SERVES ALCOHOL AND ALMOST EVERY BAR SERVES COFFEE )TS REALLY JUST A QUESTION OF DEGREES OF EMPHASIS IN SOME CAFÏS MOST OF THE CUSTOM COMES lRST THING IN THE MORNING AS PEOPLE ON THEIR WAY TO WORK STOP OFF FOR A DASH OF CAFFEINE AND A BRIOCHE OR CORNETTO CROISSANT IN OTHERS THE TABLES ARE BUSIEST LATE AT NIGHT WHEN PEOPLE DROP BY AFTER AN EVENING
!STOR #AFFÒ 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO R &ROM ITS MODEST STREET FRONT OPPOSITE THE NORTHEAST CORNER OF THE $UOMO YOU WOULDNT GUESS THAT THIS WAS THE HOTTEST SPOT ON THE PIAZZA BUT INSIDE YOULL lND A GLITZY AND SPACIOUS THREE STOREY SET UP &OOD IS SERVED IN THE UPSTAIRS RESTAURANT IN THE BASE MENT YOU GET $*S PLAYING ANYTHING FROM HIP HOP TO "RAZILIAN MUSIC MOST NIGHTS AND IN THE GROUND mOOR BAR YOU SIP COCKTAILS WITH THE CITYS GILDED YOUTH -ONn3AT AMnAM #HIAROSCURO 6IA DEL #ORSO R .ICE CAKES BUT CAFFEINES THE MAIN DRAW AS YOU MIGHT GUESS FROM THE COFFEE RELATED PARAPHERNALIA IN THE WIN DOW !LSO A GOOD PLACE FOR A QUICK CHEAP LUNCH n CHOOSE FOOD AT THE BAR AND TAKE IT TO TABLES AT THE BACK -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM
0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA #AFFÒ )TALIANO 6IA DELLA #ONDOTTA R ,OCATED ONE BLOCK NORTH OF THE PIAZZA THIS IS A COMBINATION OF OLD FASHIONED STAND UP BAR AND SMART CAFÏ WITH LOTS OF DARK WOOD SILVER TEAPOTS AND SUPERB CAKES COFFEES AND TEAS ,UNCH IS INEXPENSIVE AND EXCELLENT AS YOUD EXPECT FROM A PLACE OWNED BY 5MBERTO -ONTANO BOSS OF THE OUTSTANDING /STERIA #AFFÒ )TALIANO SEE P AMnPM *UNEn3EPT CLOSED 3UN 2IVOIRE 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA R )F YOU WANT TO PEOPLE WATCH ON &LORENCES MAIN SQUARE THIS IS THE PLACE TO DO SO AND THE OUTSIDE TABLES ARE INVARI ABLY PACKED &OUNDED IN THE CAFÏ STARTED LIFE SPECIALIZING IN HOT CHOCOLATE STILL ITS MAIN CLAIM TO FAME )CE CREAMS ARE ALSO FAIRLY GOOD BUT THE SANDWICHES AND SNACKS ARE OVERPRICED AND POOR THIS IS A PLACE FOR ONE PRICEY BEER OR CAPPUCCINO JUST TO SAY YOUVE DONE IT #LOSED -ON
7EST OF THE CENTRE !RT "AR 6IA DEL -ORO R ! lNE LITTLE BAR NEAR 0IAZZA DI #ARLO 'OLDONI 4HE INTERIOR LOOKS LIKE AN ANTIQUE SHOP WHILE THE CLUB LIKE ATMOSPHERE ATTRACTS A RATHER SMART CROWD %SPECIALLY BUSY AT HAPPY HOUR nPM WHEN THE LOW PRICED COCKTAILS ARE IN HEAVY DEMAND 4HE AFTER HOURS
AMBIENCE IS ALSO IDEAL FOR A LAID BACK NIGHTCAP -ONn3AT PMnAM #AFFÒ !MERINI 6IA DELLA 6IGNA .UOVA R 4HE INTI MATE INTERIORS MEDIEVAL BRICK ARCHING CONTRASTS WITH MODERN FURNITURE AND A COUPLE OF !RT $ECO MIRRORS 3ANDWICHES SALADS AND SNACKS ARE PARTICULARLY GOOD n POINT AT WHAT YOU WANT FROM THE BAR AND THEN SIT DOWN TO BE SERVED THERES ONLY A SMALL PREMIUM FOR SITTING DOWN -ONn3AT AMnPM #AFFÒ 'ILLI 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA nR &OUND ED IN THIS MOST APPEALING OF THE SQUARES EXPENSIVE CAFÏS MOVED TO ITS PRESENT SITE IN 4HE STAGGERING "ELLE %POQUE INTERIOR IS A SIGHT IN ITSELF BUT MOST PEOPLE CHOOSE TO SIT ON THE BIG OUTDOOR TERRACE /N A COLD AFTERNOON TRY THE FAMOUS HOT CHOCOLATE n IT COMES IN lVE BLENDED mAVOURS ALMOND ORANGE COFFEE GIANDUIA AND COCOA AMnAM CLOSED 4UES #APOCACCIA ,UNGARNO #ORSINI nR WWWCAPOCACCIACOM 4HE WELL DESIGNED INTERIOR IS ROOMY AND HAS PLENTY OF TABLES AND STOOLS THERES A $* EVERY NIGHT AND YOULL BE MIXING ALMOST ENTIRELY WITH FASHIONABLE LOCALS ESPECIALLY LATER ON n ITS BEEN VOTED THE &LORENTINES FAVOURITE NIGHT TIME RENDEZVOUS SEVERAL TIMES )F YOU HAVE NEITHER YOUTH NOR BEAUTY ON YOUR SIDE HOWEVER YOUD BEST STAY AWAY 3USHI APERITIFS ON 4UESDAYS n YOU PAY +n ON TOP OF THE DRINK PRICE TO GET ACCESS TO THE SUBSTANTIAL SNACKS 3UNDAY BRUNCH nPM /PEN DAILY NOONnPM PMnAM -ARIANO 6IA 0ARIONE R )T JUST SAYS !LIMENTARI ABOVE THE DOOR BUT THIS IS A SMARTISH LOCAL CAFÏ BAR JUST BEHIND THE 3ANTA 4RÖNITA CHURCH THAT DOES BRISK LUNCHTIME BUSINESS WITH ITS FRESHLY PREPARED SANDWICHES AND SNACKS INCLUDING PANNINI TARTUFATI AMnPM nPM CLOSED 3AT AFTERNOON 0ROCACCI 6IA DE 4ORNABUONI R &AMOUS CAFÏ THAT DOESNT SERVE COFFEE JUST WINE AND COLD DRINKS )TS REPUTATION COMES FROM THE EXTRAORDINARY TARTUFATI OR TRUFmE BUTTER ROLLS + WHICH ARE DELICIOUS IF NOT EXACTLY lLLING -ONn3AT AMnPM CLOSED !UG 3LOWLY 6IA 0ORTA 2OSSA 4HIS EXTREMELY TRENDY BAR ATTRACTS A SHOWY BEAUTIFULLY DRESSED YOUNG
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0IAZZA DEL $UOMO
& , /2% .#% #AFÏS AND BARS
OUT TO RELAX OVER A #AMPARI OR A GLASS OF WINE !S A FURTHER COMPLICATION MANY BARS AND CAFÏS OFFER A SMALL RANGE OF MEALS WHICH BLURS THE DISTINCTION BETWEEN THEM AND RESTAURANTS 4HERES ONE CATEGORY OF BAR THATS QUITE DISTINCT FROM CAFÏS AND THATS THE ENOTECA WHERE THE ENJOYMENT OF WINE IS THE CHIEF POINT OF THE EXERCISE n THOUGH IN THIS CASE THE COMPLICATING FACTOR IS THAT ALMOST ALL ENOTECHE SERVE FOOD WHICH IN SOME INSTANCES MAKES THEM ALMOST INDISTINGUISHABLE FROM RESTAURANTS 9OULL lND ENOTECHE AND MORE HUMBLE WINE DENS REVIEWED IN THE h7INE BARSv SECTION SEE P "ARS WHERE MUSIC n LIVE OR RECORDED n IS THE MAIN ATTRACTION ARE REVIEWED IN h.IGHTLIFEv SEE P
CROWD CHATTING OVER PRICEY COCKTAILS AND HIGH END BAR SNACKS 4IME WILL TELL WHETHER ITS APPEAR ANCE IN ALL THE DESIGNER MAGAZINES WILL LEAD TO STYLE TOURISTS EDGING OUT THE &LORENTINES -ONn3AT PMnAM CLOSED *ULY !UG
& , /2% .#%
.ORTH OF THE CENTRE
\ #AFÏS AND BARS
#AFFÒLATTE 6IA DEGLI !LFANI R #AFFÒLATTE BEGAN LIFE IN THE S WHEN A MILK AND COFFEE SUPPLIER OPENED HERE .OWADAYS ITS EXPANDED ITS OPERATION TO INCLUDE AN ORGANIC BAK ERY WHICH PRODUCES DELICIOUS BREADS AND CAKES SERVED IN THE ONE ROOM CAFÏ 4HE SPECIALITY DRINK AS YOUD EXPECT IS CAFFÒ LATTE SERVED IN HUGE BOWLS ,AID BACK MUSIC AND TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS OF PAINTINGS AND PHOTOGRAPHS ENHANCE THE VAGUELY hALTERNATIVEv MOOD -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM #ARACOL 6IA 'INORI R &LORENCE HAS A FEW PSEUDO ,ATIN !MERICAN DIVES OF WHICH THIS IS BY FAR THE BEST ! BIG WOODEN BAR AND RANKS OF TEQUILA BOTTLES CREATE THE RIGHT LOOK AND FEEL WHILE A MULTI ETHNIC CROWD PROVIDES THE NOISE AND ENERGY LEVELS (APPY HOUR nPM IS THE BEST AND BUSIEST TIME TO SHOW UP COCKTAILS ARE CHEAP AND THERE ARE SNACKS AND TORTILLAS TO HELP THEM DOWN 4UESn3UN PMnAM CLOSED *UNEn3EPT .ANNINI #OFFEE 3HOP 6IA "ORGO 3AN ,ORENZO R 4HE &LORENTINE OUTPOST OF 3IENAS .ANNINI OPERATION FAMED FOR ITS SUPERB COFFEE AND TOOTH WRECKING PANFORTE AN EXTREMELY DENSE AND DELICIOUS CAKE $AILY AMnPM
%AST OF THE CENTRE
#AFFÒ #IBRÒO 6IA !NDREA DEL 6ERROCCHIO R 0OS SIBLY THE PRETTIEST CAFÏ IN &LORENCE WITH A CHI CHI CLIENTELE TO MATCH /PENED IN BUT THE WOOD PANELLED INTERIOR LOOKS AT LEAST TWO HUNDRED YEARS OLDER #AKES AND DESSERTS ARE GREAT AND THE LIGHT MEALS BEAR THE CULINARY STAMP OF THE #IBRÒO RES TAURANT KITCHENS OPPOSITE 4UESn3AT AMnAM #AFFÒ DI 0ACI 6IA DEI .ERI R &RIENDLY SMALL BAR WITH TABLES AT THE BACK SERVING A RANGE OF DELICIOUS TRUFmE mAVOURED DISHES PLUS HOMEMADE PASTA AND A FEW OTHER &LORENTINE STAPLES -ONn3AT AMnMIDNIGHT ) 6ISACCI "ORGO DEGLI !LBIZI R ! BRIGHT STYLISH AND POPULAR SMALL BAR SERVING CROSTINI AND A FEW MORE SUBSTANTIAL DISHES 4UESn3AT AMnAM -AYn!UG CLOSES EARLIER 3UNn-ON AMnPM -OYO 6IA DE "ENCI R ! YOUNG CROWD mOCKS TO THIS BAR EVERY EVENING n THE FOODS PRETTY GOOD THE FREE WIRELESS )NTERNET ACCESS IS A PLUS IT WAS THE lRST PLACE IN &LORENCE TO OFFER IT BUT ITS THE BUZZ THAT REALLY BRINGS THEM IN 7ITH /STERIA DE "ENCI JUST DOWN THE ROAD SEE P THIS IS ONE OF THE
CITYS SPARKIEST CORNERS /PEN DAILY NOONnPM PMnAM AM &RI 3AT
/LTRARNO #ABIRIA 0IAZZA DI 3ANTO 3PIRITO R 4RENDY IN LOOK FEEL AND CLIENTELE BUT STILL RATHER COSY 4HE MAIN SEATING AREA IS IN THE ROOM TO THE REAR BUT PLENTY OF PUNTERS SOME LOCALS AND LOTS OF FOREIGNERS SIT OUT ON THE PIAZZA OR CROWD INTO THE BAR AREA AT THE FRONT 4HERES A $* RUN SOUNDTRACK MOST NIGHTS FROM AROUND PM n DRINKS ARE CHEAPER UNTIL THEN /PEN AMnAM CLOSED 4UES DAYS IN MID !UG #AFFÒ DEGLI !RTIGIANI 6IA DELLO 3PRONE R 3LIGHTLY RAMSHACKLE AND VERY WELCOMING CAFÏ ON A DELIGHT FUL SMALL SQUARE NEAR THE 0ONTE 6ECCHIO MUCH USED BY LOCAL STUDENTS 3ERVES SALADS AND SAND WICHES -ON AMnPM 4UESn3AT AMnAM #AFFÒ 0ITTI 0IAZZA 0ITTI R 3IT OUTSIDE OR IN THE OLD STYLE INTERIOR WHICH IS NICELY DONE OUT WITH WOODEN mOORS AND SUBDUED GOLD YELLOW WALLS 0ANINI AND OTHER SNACKS ARE AVAILABLE AT LUNCH WITH A FULL DIN NER MENU LATER n A MENU DEGUSTAZIONE FOR + AND MAINS +n $AILY AMnAM *UNE *ULY CLOSED -ON #AFFÒ ) 2ICCHI 0IAZZA DI 3ANTO 3PIRITO R 4HE MOST RELAXED OF THE CAFÏS ON THIS SQUARE WITH A MORE THAN ACCEPTABLE RESTAURANT ATTACHED 3UMMER -ONn3AT AMnAM WINTER CLOSES PM #AFFÒ ,A 4ORRE ,UNGARNO #ELLINI R 4HIS BAR CHANGES ITS DECOR EVERY YEAR WHICH IS ONE REASON IT HAS MANAGED TO REMAIN ONE OF THE MOST FASH IONABLE BARS IN &LORENCE 4HE OTHER IS ITS SUPERB LOCATION IN THE SHADOW OF THE TOWER OF THE 0ORTA 3AN .ICCOLÛ CLOSE TO THE !RNO WITH LOTS OF OUTDOOR SEATING %XCELLENT IMAGINATIVE COCKTAILS COMPLETE THE PICTURE $AILY AMnAM $OLCE 6ITA 0IAZZA DEL #ARMINE ! SMART MODERN LOOKING AND EXTREMELY POPULAR BAR THATS BEEN GOING FOR MORE THAN A DECADE AND HAS STAYED AHEAD OF THE GAME THROUGH CONSTANT UPDATING ALUMINIUM BAR STOOLS SLEEK BLACK AND WHITE PHOTOS ON THE WALLS AND THE CHANCE TO PREEN WITH &LORENCES BEAUTIFUL THINGS WHO LIKE TO DROP IN HERE FOR A COCKTAIL ON THEIR WAY TO A CLUB $AILY PMnAM (EMINGWAY 0IAZZA 0IATTELLINA R OFF 0IAZZA DEL #ARMINE 3ELF CONSCIOUSLY TRENDY BUT DONT LET THAT PUT YOU OFF n THERES NOTHING ELSE LIKE IT IN &LOR ENCE #HOOSE FROM ONE OF COUNTLESS SPECIALITY TEAS SAMPLE OVER TWENTY COFFEES OR KNOCK BACK ONE OF THE hTEA COCKTAILSv /WNERS 0AUL DE "ONDT AND !NDREA 3LITTI ARE MEMBERS OF THE #OMPAGNIA DEL #IOCCOLATO A CHOCOLATE APPRECIATION SOCIETY n AND IT SHOWS THE HANDMADE CHOCOLATES ARE SUBLIME 4UESn3UN PMnAM
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OUT HERE ON lNE NIGHTS $*S TWO OR THREE NIGHTS A WEEK KEEP THE FASHIONABLE COCKTAIL DRINKING AND ALMOST ENTIRELY )TALIAN CROWD HAPPY /CCASIONAL LIVE GIGS ANTIPASTI AVAILABLE FROM THE BISTRO !PRILn/CT -ONn4HURS 3UN AMnAM &RI 3AT TILL AM :OE 6IA DEI 2ENAI *UST SET BACK FROM THE !RNO ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE GRASSY 0IAZZA $EMIDOFF :OE AND NEIGHBOURING BAR .EGRONI ARE PERENNI ALLY POPULAR FOR SUMMER EVENING DRINKS :OE IS A LITTLE LOUDER A LITTLE TRENDIER AND A LITTLE YOUNGER IN SPIRIT "OTH BARS SPECIALIZE IN THE APERITIVO WITH A FREE BUFFET LAID OUT BETWEEN AND PM AND ATTRACT LOTS OF YOUNG &LORENTINES RIGHT THROUGH INTO THE SMALL HOURS -ONn3AT AMnAM 3UN PMnAM
& , /2% .#% 7INE BARS
)L 2IFRULLO 6IA 3AN .ICCOLÛ nR .EW OWNERS HAVE SMARTENED AND EXPANDED THIS BAR WHICH IS STILL A NICE PLACE TO UNWIND AFTER THE HIKE UP TO 3AN -INIATO OR FOR A NIGHTCAP ,YING TO THE EAST OF THE 0ONTE 6ECCHIOn0ITTI 0ALACE ROUTE IT ATTRACTS FEWER TOURISTS THAN MANY /LTRARNO CAFÏS (AS PLEASANT GARDEN TERRACE TOO 3ERVES TAPAS IN THE EARLY EVENING LARGER DISHES AFTER THAT AND OFFERS BRUNCH + ON 3AT 3UN -ONn3AT AMnAM 3UN AMnPM -AMMA ,UNGARNO 3ANTA 2OSA $ELIGHTFUL VENUE FOR SUMMER NIGHTS OCCUPYING A SMALL PARK IN THE SHADOW OF THE HIGH CITY WALLS BEHIND THE 0ORTA 3AN &REDIANO 2OMANTIC AT DUSK WHEN CANDLES ARE SET OUT IT BECOMES HUGELY BUSY LATER ON n MORE THAN A THOUSAND PEOPLE HAVE BEEN KNOWN TO COME
7INE BARS !S YOUD EXPECT IN A CITY THAT LIES CLOSE TO SOME OF THE BEST VINEYARDS IN THE COUNTRY &LORENCE HAS PLENTY OF BARS DEDICATED TO THE WINES OF #HIANTI AND OTHER 4USCAN PRODUCERS !T ONE END OF THE SCALE THERES THE ENDANGERED SPE CIES KNOWN AS THE VINAIO SEE BOX WHICH CONSISTS OF LITTLE MORE THAN A NICHE WITH A FEW SHELVES OF GENERALLY WORKADAY WINES PLUS A COUNTER OF SNACKS !T THE OPPOSITE POLE THERES THE ENOTECA WHICH IS IN EFFECT A RESTAURANT DEVOTED TO WINE ALL OF THEM HAVE KITCHENS COOKING EXCELLENT FOOD IN MANY CASES BUT THE WINE MENU WILL BE FAR MORE EXTENSIVE OFTEN RUNNING TO HUNDREDS OF DIFFERENT VINTAGES )NCREASINGLY POPULAR AMONG YOUNGER &LORENTINES THE CITYS ENOTECHE ARE BECOMING MORE NUMEROUS WITH EVERY PASSING YEAR AND THEIR QUALITY IS CONSIST ENTLY HIGH &IASCHETTERIA .UVOLI 0IAZZA DELL/LIO )TS SOMETHING OF A SURPRISE TO lND SUCH A TRADITIONAL PLACE SO CLOSE TO THE $UOMO 4HE TINY DARK BOT TLED LINED SHOP IS DOMINATED BY A COUNTER LADEN WITH COLD MEATS CROSTINI AND OTHER SNACKS PLUS A FEW OPENED WINE BOTTLES 4HERES ROOM INSIDE TO EAT SITTING DOWN BUT MOST OF THE CUSTOMERS ARE CONTENT WITH A QUICK GLASS AT THE BAR -ONn3AT AMnPM
OF THE FAUX RUSTIC 4USCAN WINE BAR WITH ITS STEEL CHAIRS AND GLASS TOPPED TABLES 3OME MIGHT lND IT A BIT TOO BUSINESSLIKE BUT IT HAS A MORE THAN ADE QUATE SELECTION OF WINES AND THE KITCHEN TURNS OUT SOME INTERESTING DISHES n SUCH AS BLACK TAGLIOLINI WITH SEA URCHIN AND ZUCCHINI mOWER PESTO + 4HE CUCINA ITSELF IS ON FULL VIEW BOTH FROM THE TABLES AND FROM THE STREET )TS WINE SHOP NEXT DOOR HAS A COSIER FEEL NOONnMIDNIGHT DAILY SERVING SNACKS 4UESn3UN NOONnPM PMnMIDNIGHT
0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA
.ORTH OF THE CENTRE
#ANTINETTA DEI 6ERRAZZANO 6IA DEI 4AVOLINI nR /WNED BY #ASTELLO DEI 6ERRAZZANO A MAJOR #HIANTI VINEYARD THIS WOOD PANELLED PLACE NEAR /RSANMICHELE IS PART BAR PART CAFÏ AND PART BAKERY MAKING ITS OWN EXCELLENT PIZZA FOCACCIA AND CAKES ! PERFECT SPOT FOR A LIGHT LUNCH OR AN EARLY EVENING DRINK *ULY !UG -ONn3AT AMnPM 3EPTn*UNE -ONn3AT AMnPM 'USTAVINO 6IA DELLA #ONDOTTA R WWW GUSTAVINOIT ! MINUTES WALK FROM 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA THIS ENOTECA CON CUCINA IS THE ANTITHESIS
#ASA DEL 6INO 6IA DELL!RIENTO R ,OCATED JUST WEST OF THE -ERCATO #ENTRALE AND PASSED BY HORDES OF TOURISTS DAILY n YET PROB ABLY VISITED BY ONLY A HANDFUL 0ATRONS ARE MOSTLY &LORENTINES WHO PITCH UP FOR A DRINK A CHAT WITH OWNER 'IANNI -IGLIORINI AND AN ASSAULT ON VARIOUS PANINI CROSTINI AND SALTLESS 4USCAN BREAD AND SALAMI -ONn&RI AMnPM :ANOBINI 6IA 3ANT!NTONINO R ,IKE THE #ASA DEL 6INO ITS RIVAL JUST AROUND THE COR NER THIS IS AN AUTHENTIC &LORENTINE PLACE WHOSE
0IAZZA DEL $UOMO
6INAII
& , /2% .#%
\ 7INE BARS
4HE VINAIO WAS ONCE A REAL &LORENTINE INSTITUTION 4HESE TINY PLACES WITH NO SEATING WOULD TYPICALLY SEE CUSTOMERS LINGERING FOR NO MORE THAN A COUPLE OF MINUTES n LONG ENOUGH TO DOWN A TUMBLER OF BASIC RED WINE AND EXCHANGE A FEW WORDS WITH THE PROPRIETOR 4HE NUMBER OF VINAII HAS DECLINED MARKEDLY IN RECENT YEARS THE FOLLOWING ARE THE NOTABLE SURVIVORS !LL!NTICO 6INAIO 6IA DEI .ERI R 4HOUGH RECENTLY REVAMPED THIS PLACE n LOCATED BETWEEN THE 5FlZI AND 3ANTA #ROCE n PRESERVES MUCH OF THE ROUGH AND READY ATMOS PHERE THATS MADE IT ONE OF &LORENCES MOST POPULAR WINE BARS FOR THE LAST HUNDRED YEARS !LSO SERVES COFFEE ROLLS AND PLATES OF PASTA -ONn3AT AMnPM CLOSED WEEKS IN LATE *ULY EARLY !UG ) &RATELLINI 6IA DEI #IMATORI R 4HIS MINUSCULE DIRT CHEAP WINE BAR IS SOMEHOW CLINGING ON IN THE IMMEDIATE VICINITY OF THE HIGH RENT 6IA DEI #ALZAIUOLI 3ERVES DECENT PANINI AND LOCAL WINES -ID *UNE TO !UG -ONn&RI AMnPM 3EPT TO MID *UNE DAILY AMnPM ,!NTICO .OÒ 6OLTA DI 3AN 0IERO R ! LONG ESTABLISHED STAND UP WINE BAR TUCKED INTO AN UNINVITING LITTLE ALLEY TO THE NORTH OF 3ANTA #ROCE AT THE EASTERN END OF "ORGO DEGLI !LBIZI -ONn3AT NOONnPM PMnMIDNIGHT 1UASIGRATIS 0IAZZA DEL 'RANO FORMERLY KNOWN AS 6IA DEI #ASTELLANI ,ITTLE MORE THAN A WINDOW IN A WALL AT THE BACK OF THE 5FlZI AND IT DOESNT SAY 1UASIGRATIS h!LMOST FREEv ANYWHERE n JUST h6INIv 2OLLS NIBBLES AND WINE n IN TINY GLASSES CALLED RASINI n ARE CONSUMED STANDING UP $AILY AMnPM CLOSED *AN &EB
FEEL OWES MUCH TO THE PRESENCE OF LOCALS AND TRADERS FROM THE NEARBY -ERCATO #ENTRALE /FFERS ACCEPTABLE SNACKS BUT MOST PEOPLE ARE SIMPLY HERE FOR A CHAT OVER A GLASS OF WINE -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM
%AST OF THE CENTRE "ALDORIA 6IA 3AN 'IUSEPPE R !N OFF SHOOT OF THE EXCELLENT "ALDOVINO RESTAURANT ACROSS THE ROAD THIS IS A STYLISH PLACE TO SAMPLE GASTRONOMIC SNACKS AND PIZZAS OR DRINK TOP QUALITY WINE EITHER AT THE BAR OR ONE OF THE TABLES TO THE REAR 3UMMER DAILY NOONnMIDNIGHT WINTER 4UESn3UN NOONnPM PMnMIDNIGHT "OCCADAMA 0IAZZA 3ANTA #ROCE nR ! SMART AND WELL STOCKED WINE BAR OFFERING VINTAGES FROM ALL OVER THE COUNTRY AND A GOOD MENU OF SNACKS AND SIMPLE MEALS 4UESn3UN nPM ALSO -ARCHn/CT -ON nPM #AFFÒ )TALIANO 6IA )SOLA DELLE 3TINCHE nR !S WELL AS SERVING A SUPERB RANGE OF MAINLY 4USCAN WINES THE WINE BAR SECTION OF #AFFÒ )TALIANO SEE P HAS AN EXCELLENT KITCHEN n BUT ONLY THREE TABLES AND LITTLE STANDING ROOM SO THE QUEUES OUTSIDE CAN BE LONG .O CREDIT CARDS 4UESn3UN nAM
/LTRARNO
"ECCOlNO 0IAZZA DEGLI 3CARLATTI R ,IKE THE RESTAURANT TO WHICH ITS ATTACHED THIS WINE BAR IS A SOPHISTICATEDLY STYLISH ESTABLISHMENT n THE
SELECTION OF WINES IS TERRIlC AND THERES A MENU OF INNOVATIVE DISHES FROM THE RESTAURANTS KITCHEN AT SOMEWHAT LOWER PRICES 4UESn3UN PMnMIDNIGHT %NOTECA ,E "ARRIQUE 6IA DEL ,EONE R ! lNE SMALL WINE BAR A SHORT DISTANCE WEST OF 3ANTA -ARIA DEL #ARMINE WITH A WIDE RANGING LIST OF VIN TAGES AND A MODEST MENU OF FULL MEALS 4UESn&RI 3UN PMnAM &UORI 0ORTA 6IA DEL -ONTE ALLE #ROCI R WWWFUORIPORTAIT )F YOURE CLIMBING UP TO 3AN -INIATO YOU COULD TAKE A BREATHER AT THIS SUPERB AND JUSTLY FAMOUS WINE BAR OSTERIA 4HERE ARE OVER FOUR HUNDRED WINES TO CHOOSE FROM BY THE BOTTLE AND AN EVER CHANGING SELECTION OF WINES BY THE GLASS AS WELL AS A WIDE SELECTION OF GRAPPAS AND MALT WHISKIES "READ CHEESE HAMS AND SALAMIS ARE AVAILABLE TOGETHER WITH A CHOICE OF PASTA DISHES AND TASTY SALADS ALL VERY ELEGANTLY PRESENTED (AS A SUMMERTIME TERRACE AND LARGE DINING AREA BUT ITS STILL WISE TO BOOK IF YOURE COMING HERE TO EAT -ONn3AT nPM PMnAM CLOSED WEEKS IN MID !UG )L 3ANTO "EVITORE 6IA 3ANTO 3PIRITO nR 4HE (OLY $RINKER IS AN AIRY AND STYLISH hGASTRONOMIC ENOTECAv WITH A SMALL BUT CLASSY FOOD MENU AROUND + FOR A MEAL WITHOUT DRINKS TO COMPLEMENT ITS ENTICING MENU OF WINES 'OOD RANGE OF SALADS AT LUNCHTIME WITH A MORE EXTENSIVE EVENING MENU -ONn3AT nPM nPM
AT LEAST TWO DOZEN DIFFERENT WINES BY THE GLASS -ONn3AT AMnPM 0ITTI 'OLA E #ANTINA 0IAZZA 0ITTI ! SMALL AND FRIENDLY WINE BAR VERY HANDILY PLACED FOR A GLASS OF #HIANTI AFTER A SLOG AROUND THE 0ITTI MUSEUMS 4UESn3UN AMnPM #LOSED WEEKS IN MID !UG
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& , /2% .#% 'ELATERIE
,E 6OLPI E ,5VA 0IAZZA DEI 2OSSI R OFF 0IAZZA DI 3ANTA &ELÖCITA WWWLEVOLPIELUVA COM 4HIS DISCREET FRIENDLY LITTLE PLACE JUST OVER THE 0ONTE 6ECCHIO DOES GOOD BUSINESS BY CON CENTRATING ON THE WINES OF SMALL PRODUCERS AND PROVIDING TASTY COLD MEATS AND SNACKS TO HELP THEM DOWN THE SELECTION OF CHEESES IN PARTICULAR IS TREMENDOUS !T ANY ONE TIME YOU CAN CHOOSE FROM
'ELATERIE $EVOTEES OF )TALIAN ICE CREAM WILL lND THAT &LORENCE OFFERS PLENTY OF OPPORTUNI TIES TO INDULGE THE CITY HAS SOME SUPERB GELATERIE AND SOME WOULD CLAIM THAT 6IVOLI IS THE BEST PURVEYOR IN THE COUNTRY 4HE PROCEDURE IS THE SAME WHEREVER YOU BUY &IRST DECIDE WHETHER YOU WANT A CONE UN CONO OR A CUP UNA COPPA 4HEN DECIDE HOW MUCH YOU WANT TO PAY CONE AND CUP SIZES TEND TO START AROUND + GOING UP IN + INCREMENTS 5NLESS YOU PLUMP FOR THE SMALLEST SIZE YOULL USUALLY BE ABLE TO CHOOSE A COMBINATION OF TWO OR THREE mAVOURS &INALLY YOU MAY BE ASKED IF YOU WANT A SQUIRT OF CREAM PANNA ON TOP n ITS USUALLY FREE "ONDI ALSO KNOWN AS )L 4RIANGOLO DELLE "ER MUDE 6IA .AZIONALE R 4HE "ONDI FAMILY MAKE SOME OF THE MOST UNUSUAL CONCOCTIONS IN TOWN SUCH AS CINNAMON OREO MADE FROM THE !MERICAN BISCUIT AND -ARS BAR #LOSED -ON #AFÏ DELLE #ARIZZE 0IAZZA 0ESCE R 'OOD OUTLET RIGHT BY THE 0ONTE 6ECCHIO $AILY EXCEPT 7ED AMnPM #AFFÒ ) 2ICCHI 0IAZZA DI 3ANTO 3PIRITO R %XCELLENT
ICE CREAMS AT A POPULAR LOCATION n mAVOURS INCLUDE %NGLISH TRImE #ARABE 6IA 2ICASOLI R 7ONDERFUL 3ICILIAN ICE CREAM MADE WITH 3ICILIAN INGREDIENTS AS ONLY THEY KNOW HOW !LSO SERVES A VARIETY OF CAKES -AYn/CT DAILY AMnMIDNIGHT .OV -ARCH !PRIL DAILY NOONnPM lRST HALF OF $EC LAST HALF OF *AN 4UESn3UN NOONnPM CLOSED MID $EC TO MID *AN
0UBS %VERY )TALIAN TOWN OF ANY SIZE NOW HAS AT LEAST ONE PUB GENERALLY WITH AN )RISH THEME IN WHICH THE CLIENTELE TENDS TO BE A MIX OF LOCAL LADS AND STUDENTS SIPPING SLOWLY AT THEIR HALF PINTS AND %NGLISH SPEAKING TOURISTS SHOWING THEM HOW ITS REALLY DONE &LORENCE HAS AN INCREASING NUMBER OF SUCH PLACES OF WHICH THE FOLLOWING TRIO ARE MORE CONVINCING THAN MOST OF THE REST &IDDLERS %LBOW 0IAZZA DI 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA R 0ART OF AN )TALY WIDE CHAIN WITH JUST ONE SMOKY DARK AND WOOD PANELLED ROOM INVARIABLY HEAVING WITH HOMESICK FOREIGNERS n FORTUNATELY THERES ALSO SEATING OUT ON THE PIAZZA 7OMEN TRAVELLERS ARE LIKELY TO lND THEMSELVES THE OBJECT OF CONCERTED ATTENTION FROM PACKS OF 'UINNESS SOZZLED )TALIANS $AILY NOONnAM ,IONS &OUNTAIN "ORGO DEGLI !LBIZI R "ACKGROUND MUSIC ISNT TRADITIONAL BUT ITS INOFFENSIVE THE DECOR IS PSEUDO )RISH AND THE BAR STAFF AND ATMOSPHERE ARE GENER ALLY FRIENDLY &OOD IS SIMPLE AND GOOD n LOTS OF SALADS AND SANDWICHES n AND YOU CAN CATCH BIG SPORTING EVENTS ON THE 46S $RINKS ARE REASONABLY PRICED AND INCLUDE A GOOD RANGE OF COCKTAILS AS WELL AS THE UBIQUITOUS 'UINNESS $AILY PMnAM 2OBIN (OODS 4AVERN 6IA DELL/RIUOLO R /NE OF THE BIGGEST AND MOST SUCCESSFUL OF SEVERAL PLACES THAT TRY TO AFFECT THE LOOK OF AN %NGLISH PUB n PROBABLY BECAUSE IT WAS STARTED BY A FORMER BIKER FROM "IRMINGHAM (APPY HOUR nPM /PEN DAILY PMnAM
& , /2% .#%
\ .IGHTLIFE AND CULTURAL EVENTS
&ESTIVAL DEL 'ELATO 6IA DEL #ORSO R !ROUND SEV ENTY VARIETIES OF ICE CREAM WITH SOME VERY EXOTIC COMBINATIONS 4UESn3UN AMnMIDNIGHT &RILLI 6IA 3AN -INIATO R 4INY FAMILY OPERATION JUST INSIDE THE 3AN -INIATO GATE IN THE 3AN .ICCOLÛ DISTRICT RECOMMENDED ARE THE ORANGE AND LEMON MOUSSE 4UESn3UN AMnPM BUT OPEN TILL MID NIGHT ON SUMMER WEEKENDS 'ELATERIA DEI .ERI 6IA DEI .ERI nR 3MALL PLACE IN CONTENTION FOR THE BEST ICE CREAMS IN TOWN #LOSE TO THE 5FlZI BUT AWAY FROM THE CROWDS 4HE RANGE OF mAVOURS IS FANTASTIC n lG AND WAL NUT -EXICAN CHOCOLATE VERY SPICY RICE n AND
THEY ALSO HAVE SOME NON DAIRY ICE CREAMS $AILY AMnMIDNIGHT 0ERCHÒ .O 6IA DE 4AVOLINI R 3UPERB GELATERIA IN BUSINESS SINCE THE S GO FOR THE RUM LACED TIRAMISá THE CHOCOLATE OR THE GORGEOUS PISTACHIO $AILY AMnMIDNIGHT EXCEPT 4UES AMnPM CLOSED .OV 6IVOLI 6IA )SOLA DELLE 3TINCHE R /PERATING FROM DECEPTIVELY UNPREPOSSESSING PREMISES IN A SIDE STREET CLOSE TO 3ANTA #ROCE THIS HAS LONG BEEN RATED THE BEST ICE CREAM MAKER IN &LORENCE n AND SOME SAY IN )TALY 4UESn3UN AMnAM CLOSED !UG
.IGHTLIFE AND CULTURAL EVENTS &LORENCE HAS A REPUTATION FOR CATERING PRIMARILY TO THE MIDDLE AGED AND AFmU ENT BUT LIKE EVERY UNIVERSITY TOWN IT HAS ITS POCKETS OF NIGHTLIFE ACTIVITY NOT TO MENTION THE ADDED NOCTURNAL BUZZ GENERATED BY THOUSANDS OF SUMMER VISITORS &ULL DETAILS OF THE CITYS DEPENDABLE CLUB AND LIVE MUSIC VENUES ARE GIVEN BELOW BUT FOR UP TO THE MINUTE INFORMATION ABOUT WHATS ON CALL IN AT THE TOURIST OFlCE IN 6IA #AVOUR SEE P OR AT "OX /FlCE WHICH HAS OUTLETS AT 6IA !LMANNI -ON nPM 4UESn3AT AMnPM AND 6IA 0ORTA 2OSSA R NEAR THE CORNER WITH 6IA DE 4ORNABUONI -ON nPM 4UESn3AT AMnPM 4ICKETS FOR MOST EVENTS ARE AVAILABLE AT "OX /FlCE OTHERWISE KEEP YOUR EYES PEELED FOR ADVERTISING POSTERS OR PICK UP MONTHLY MAGAZINES SUCH AS &IRENZE 3PETTACOLO + WHICH HAS AN %NGLISH SECTION h&LORENSCOPEv AS WELL AS A MAP OF PLACES OPEN AFTER MIDNIGHT
#LUBS 0UT TOGETHER BALMY SUMMER EVENINGS A BIG STUDENT POPULATION AND &LORENCES HUGE SUMMER SURGE OF YOUNG TRAVELLERS AND YOU HAVE A RECIPE FOR A MASSIVE CLUB SCENE 5NFORTUNATELY THOSE SAME INGREDIENTS DONT NECESSARILY ADD UP TO PRODUCE THE MOST SOPHISTICATED OF VENUES AND IN ANY CASE CLUBS IN )TALY DONT RESEMBLE THEIR EQUIVALENTS IN ,ONDON OR OTHER BIG CITIES &OR ONE THING MOST &LORENTINES ARENT IN CLUBS TO DANCE OR DRINK THEYRE THERE TO SEE AND BE SEEN AND DRESS UP TO THE NINES &OREIGNERS ARE A DIFFERENT MATTER AND ONE OR TWO n MOSTLY CENTRAL n CLUBS HAVE A SLIGHTLY MORE SWEATY AND FAMILIAR ATMOSPHERE AS A RESULT &ACED WITH A LOW INCOME FROM THE BAR MOST CLUBS CHARGE A FAIRLY STIFF ADMIS SION RECKON ON + AND UP FOR THE BIGGER AND BETTER KNOWN PLACES 4HIS IS NOT QUITE AS BAD AS IT SOUNDS FOR THE ADMISSION OFTEN INCLUDES A DRINK 0RICES AT THE BAR AFTER THAT ARE USUALLY PRETTY STEEP /THER MORE INSIDIOUS ADMISSION
4HE STREETS OF CENTRAL &LORENCE ARE GENERALLY SAFE AT NIGHT BUT WOMEN SHOULD BE WARY OF STROLLING THROUGH THE RED LIGHT DISTRICTS ALONE THE AREA AROUND THE STATION AND 0IAZZA /GNISSANTI HAVE A PARTICULARLY DODGY REPUTATION AND KERB CRAWLING IS NOT UNKNOWN 5NACCOMPANIED TOURISTS OF EITHER SEX SHOULD STAY WELL CLEAR OF THE #ASCINE PARK AT NIGHT IF YOURE GOING TO ONE OF THE CLUBS LOCATED THERE GET A TAXI THERE AND BACK
'AY AND LESBIAN &LORENCE
7EST OF THE CENTRE #ENTRAL 0ARK 6IA &OSSO -ACINANTE 0ARCO DELLE #ASCINE /NE OF THE CITYS BIGGEST AND MOST COM MERCIAL CLUBS WITH ADVENTUROUS WIDE RANGING AND UP TO THE MINUTE MUSIC ON SEVERAL DANCE mOORS FROM $*S WHO KNOW WHAT THEYRE DOING AND HAVE ACCESS TO A SUPERB SOUND SYSTEM ! CARD SYSTEM OPERATES FOR DRINKS AND THE lRST DRINK IS INCLUDED IN THE ADMISSION n AROUND + AFTER MIDNIGHT USUALLY FREE BEFORE )TS UNSAFE TO WANDER AROUND THE PARK OUTSIDE ESPECIALLY FOR WOMEN 3UMMER 4UESn3AT PMnAM WINTER &RI 3AT SAME HOURS ,OONEES 6IA 0ORTA 2OSSA R 2UN BY A FORMER BIKER FROM "IRMINGHAM THIS IS A RELAXED BAR IN THE CENTRE OF TOWN WITH LIVE MUSIC 7EDn3AT $AILY PMnAM -ECCANÛ 6IALE DEGLI /LMI 0IAZZALE DELLE #ASCINE 0EOPLE mOCK HERE FOR A NIGHT OUT FROM ACROSS HALF OF 4USCANY 4HE PLACE IS LABYRINTHINE WITH A TRIO OF LOUNGE AND BAR AREAS AND A HUGE AND INVARIABLY PACKED DANCE mOOR PLAYING MOSTLY HOUSE )N SUMMER WHEN THE ACTION SPILLS OUT OF DOORS YOU CAN COOL OFF IN THE GARDENS BORDERING THE #ASCINE 4HE + ADMIS SION USUALLY LESS DURING THE WEEK INCLUDES YOUR lRST DRINK 3UMMER 7EDn3AT PMnAM WINTER
4HURSn3AT SAME HOURS CLOSED .OV TWO WEEKS IN !UG 3PACE %LECTRONIC 6IA 0ALAZZUOLO WWWSPACEELECTRONICNET 9OULL lND ALL THE DISCO CLICHÏS OF A BIG #ONTINENTAL CLUB HERE n GLASS DANCE mOORS AND MIRRORED WALLS n AND ONE OR TWO LESS FAMILIAR FEATURES SUCH AS THE PIRANHA TANK IN THE DOWNSTAIRS BAR NEAR THE KARAOKE AREA #OOLER THAN THOU CLUBBERS MIGHT BE SNIFFY ABOUT ITS POPULARITY WITH YOUTHFUL TOURIST COACH PARTIES AND LOCAL LADS ON THE PULL BUT ITS lNE IF ALL YOU WANT TO DO IS DANCE AND THE MUSIC CAN BE SURPRISINGLY GOOD !DMISSION + WITH ONE FREE DRINK DRINKS ARE REASONABLY PRICED -ONn&RI 3UN PMnAM 3AT PMnAM WINTER CLOSED -ON 9AB 6IA 3ASSETTI R WWWYAB IT ,ONG ESTABLISHED PLACE CRAMMED INTO A BASE MENT AND CURRENTLY ENJOYING SOMETHING OF A VOGUE ESPECIALLY ON A 4HURS NIGHT /N OTHER NIGHTS IT DOESNT HAVE THE MOST UP TO THE MINUTE PLAYLIST IN THE WORLD BUT STILL OFFERS PROBABLY THE MOST RELAXED AND RELIABLE NIGHTS CLUBBING IN CENTRAL &LORENCE 9OURE GIVEN A CARD AND PAY ON LEAVING IF YOUVE SPENT LESS THAN + AT THE BAR !UGn!PRIL -ON 7EDn3UN PMnAM -AYn*ULY -ON PMnAM
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PROCEDURES INCLUDE A CARD SYSTEM WHERE YOURE GIVEN A CARD ON USUALLY FREE ENTRY THAT GETS STAMPED EVERY TIME YOU SPEND MONEY AT THE BAR "Y THE END OF THE NIGHT YOU HAVE TO HAVE SPENT A MINIMUM SUM IF NOT YOU HAVE TO PAY THE DIFFERENCE BEFORE THE BOUNCERS WILL LET YOU OUT !ND OF COURSE EVERYONE LOSES THEIR CARD !LTERNATIVELY THE CARD MAY BE USED JUST TO KEEP TABS ON YOUR DRINKS WITH THE BILL SETTLED AT THE END OF THE EVENING 0AYMENT ALWAYS HAS TO BE IN CASH CREDIT CARDS ARE NOT ACCEPTED /PENING AND CLOSING TIMES FOR CLUBS ARE RARELY SET THOUGH THE WEEKLY CLOSING DAY IF THERE IS ONE DOESNT USUALLY VARY #LUBS ARE ALSO PRONE TO CLOSURE OR TO CLOSING AND THEN OPENING UP UNDER A DIFFERENT NAME
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&LORENCES HISTORY IS SCATTERED WITH THE NAMES OF SOME OF HISTORYS GREATEST GAY AND BISEXUAL ARTISTS INCLUDING -ICHELANGELO ,EONARDO AND "OTTICELLI &LORENZER WAS DUR ING THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY AT LEAST 'ERMAN SLANG FOR GAY 4HE CITY REMAINS FOR THE MOST PART TOLERANT TOWARDS GAY AND LESBIAN VISITORS 4HE LEADING GAY BAR IS #RISCO A SHORT DISTANCE EAST OF THE $UOMO AT 6IA 3ANT%GIDIO R WWW CRISCOIT -ON 7EDn3UN PM TILL LATE BUT THE AMBIENCE CAN BE A BIT HEAVY FOR SOME TASTES )L 0ICCOLO #AFFÒ "ORGO 3ANTA #ROCE R DAILY PM TILL LATE HAS A MORE CHILLED OUT ATMOSPHERE WHILE 9!' " R ALSO NEAR 3ANTA #ROCE AT 6IA DE -ACCI R WWWYAGBARCOM IS STYLISH AND DRAWS A TRENDY MIXED CROWD 4HE KEY BAR CLUB IS THE PIONEERING 4ABASCO WHICH HAS BEEN GOING FOR MORE THAN THIRTY YEARS AT 0IAZZA 3ANTA #ECILIA R WWWTABASCOGAY IT DAILY PMnAM WITH MUSIC 4HURSn3UN &OR MORE INFORMATION AND CONTACTS CHECK OUT WWWGAYITPINKLILY &OR LESBIAN CONTACTS CHECK THE NOTICEBOARD AT THE WOMENS BOOKSHOP ,IBRERIA DELLE $ONNE 6IA &IESOLANA B -ON nPM 4UESn3AT AMnPM nPM
%AST OF THE CENTRE
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\ .IGHTLIFE AND CULTURAL EVENTS
"LOB #LUB 6IA 6INEGIA R ! FAVOURITE WITH &LORENTINE STUDENTS POSSIBLY ON ACCOUNT OF ITS FREE ADMISSION AND THE nPM HAPPY HOUR 3EATING UPSTAIRS BAR AND TINY DANCE mOOR DOWNSTAIRS BUT DONT EXPECT TO DO MUCH DANCING n LATER ON ESPECIALLY ON WEEKEND NIGHTS "LOB GETS PACKED FULL WITH A VERY HAPPY AND VERY DRUNKEN CROWD 1UIETER IN THE SUMMER MONTHS $AILY PMnAM &ULL 5P 6IA DELLA 6IGNA 6ECCHIA R 3ITUATED CLOSE TO THE "ARGELLO THIS CLUB HAS BEEN GOING SO LONG ITS BECOME SOMETHING OF AN INSTITUTION BUT NEW MANAGEMENT IS TRYING TO MOVE IT UPMARKET !DMISSION + 2ECKON ON AROUND + FOR MOST DRINKS 4UESn3AT PMnAM #LOSED *UNEn3EPT 2EX 6IA &IESOLANA R WWWREXCAFEIT /NE OF THE CITYS BIG NIGHT TIME lXTURES A FRIENDLY BAR CLUB WITH A VARIED AND LOYAL CLIENTELE 6AST CURVING LIGHTS DROOP OVER THE CENTRAL BAR WHICH IS STUDDED WITH TURQUOISE STONE AND BROKEN MIRROR MOSAICS "IG ARCHED SPACES TO EITHER SIDE MEAN THERES PLENTY OF ROOM THE COCKTAILS ARE
GOOD AND THE SNACKS EXCELLENT $*S PROVIDE THE SOUNDS AT WEEKENDS $AILY PMnAM #LOSED *UNEn!UG
/LTRARNO 5NIVERSALE 6IA 0ISANA R WWWUNIVERSALElRENZEIT ,OCATED BEYOND THE CITY GATES THIS IS PERHAPS THE MOST STYLISH NIGHT VENUE IN &LORENCE WITH A RESTAURANT AND VARIOUS CLUB ZONES INSTALLED IN A BEAUTIFUL CONVERTED S CINEMA 3NOBBY AND NOUVEAU MAYBE BUT DElNITELY GLAMOROUS 4HE MUSIC IS PREDOMINANTLY HOUSE 4UESn3UN PMnAM CLOSED -ON -AYn3EPT
0ERÒTOLA 4ENAX 6IA 0RATESE WWW TENAXORG &LORENCES BIG HITTING CLUB PULLING IN THE ODD BIG NAME $* 'IVEN ITS LOCATION IN THE NORTH WEST OF TOWN NEAR THE AIRPORT TAKE A TAXI YOULL ESCAPE THE HORDES OF INTERNAZIONALISTI IN THE MORE CENTRAL CLUBS 7ITH TWO LARGE mOORS ITS A MAJOR VENUE FOR CONCERTS AS WELL !DMISSION VARIES FROM AROUND + TO AROUND + 4HURSn3AT PMn AM CLOSED MID -AY TO MID 3EPT
,IVE MUSIC &LORENCES LIVE MUSIC SCENE ISNT THE HOTTEST IN )TALY BUT THERES A SMATTERING OF VENUES FOR SMALL TIME LOCAL OUTlTS AND A COUPLE OF BIG STAGES FOR VISITING STARS )N ADDITION TO THE RECOMMENDATIONS BELOW A FEW OF THE PLACES REVIEWED UNDER h#AFÏS AND BARSv AND h#LUBSv LAY ON LIVE BANDS FROM TIME TO TIME CHECK LISTINGS MAGAZINES FOR ONE OFF EVENTS 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA
%AST OF THE CENTRE
#ARUSO *AZZ #AFÏ 6IA ,AMBERTESCA R 2EGULAR LIVE JAZZ AT THIS SMALL VENUE E FOR ADMISSION AND lRST DRINK #LOSED 3UN
*AZZ #LUB 6IA .UOVA DE #ACCINI &LORENCES FOREMOST JAZZ VENUE HAS BEEN A lXTURE FOR YEARS 4HE + hMEMBERSHIPv FEE GETS YOU DOWN INTO THE MEDIEVAL BRICK VAULTED BASEMENT WHERE THE ATMOSPHERES INFORMAL AND THERES LIVE MUSIC MOST NIGHTS AND AN OPEN JAM SESSION ON 4UESDAYS #OCKTAILS ARE GOOD AND YOU CAN ALSO SNACK ON BAR NIBBLES AND FOCACCIA 4UESn&RI PMnAM 3AT PMnAM CLOSED *UNEn!UG .ELSON -ANDELA &ORUM 6IALE 0ASQUALE 0AOLI !LONG WITH 4ENAX SEE BELOW THIS PLACE n LOCATED A LONG WAY EAST OF THE CENTRE AT #AMPO DI -ARTE n IS THE CITYS MAIN VENUE FOR BIG DRAW MAINSTREAM ACTS SUCH AS -ARK +NOPmER AND ,ENNY +RAVITZ
.ORTH OF THE CENTRE
"E "OP 6IA DEI 3ERVI R ! NICE AND RATHER CLASSY ROCK JAZZ AND BLUES BAR WITH BOW TIED BAR STAFF AND FAUX !RT .OUVEAU DECOR ,OCATED CLOSE TO THE UNIVERSITY DISTRICT AND OFTEN FULL OF STUDENTS AS A RESULT .O DANCE mOOR AS SUCH THIS IS MORE A PLACE TO SIT AND CHILL OUT TO THE MUSIC $AILY PMnAM 'IRASOL 6IA DEL 2OMITO &LORENCES LIVELIEST ,ATIN BAR LOCATED ON A MINOR ROAD DUE NORTH OF THE &ORTEZZA DA "ASSO IS HUGELY POPULAR 2ATHER THAN RELYING SOLELY ON SALSA CLASSES COCKTAILS AND THE USUAL VINYL SUSPECTS n ALTHOUGH IT DOES ALL THESE n THE PLACE DRAWS IN SOME SURPRISINGLY GOOD LIVE ACTS WITH DIFFERENT COUNTRIES SOUNDS EACH DAY OF THE WEEK FROM "RAZILIAN BOSSA NOVA TO #UBAN SON &RIDAY IS PARTY NIGHT $AILY PMnAM
)L 0OGGETTO !UDITORIUM &LOG 6IA -ICHELE -ERCATI B WWWmOGIT /NE OF THE CITYS BEST KNOWN MID SIZED VENUES AND A PERENNIAL STU DENT FAVOURITE n WITH A SUITABLY DOWNBEAT STUDENTY
LOOK AND FEEL n FOR ALL FORMS OF LIVE MUSIC AND $*S BUT PARTICULARLY LOCAL INDIE TYPE BANDS )TS USUALLY PACKED DESPITE A POSITION WAY OUT IN THE NORTHERN SUBURBS AT )L 0OGGETTO TO GET THERE TAKE BUSES OR
4ENAX 6IA 0RATESE WWW
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#LASSICAL MUSIC 4HE -AGGIO -USICALE )TALYS OLDEST AND MOST PRESTIGIOUS MUSIC FESTIVAL IS THE MOST CONSPICUOUS SIGN OF THE HEALTH OF THE CITYS CLASSICAL MUSIC SCENE THOUGH IT SHOULD BE SAID THAT THE FARE TENDS TOWARDS THE CONSERVATIVE )N ADDITION TO THE MAJOR FESTIVALS LISTED BELOW THE CITY HAS NUMEROUS ORGANIZATIONS THAT PUT ON CONCERTS AT VARIOUS TIMES OF THE YEAR 4HE !MICI DELLA -USICA HOSTS A SEASON OF CHAMBER CONCERTS WITH TOP NAME INTERNATIONAL PERFORMERS FROM /CTOBER TO !PRIL MOSTLY IN THE 4EATRO DELLA 0ERGOLA OCCASIONALLY IN THE 4EATRO 'OLDONI %VENTS ARE HELD THROUGHOUT THE YEAR BY THE !SSOCIAZIONE 'IOVANILE -USI CALE TWO OF THEIR BEST ARE THE #ONCERTI DI 0ASQUA A SERIES OF %ASTER CONCERTS USU ALLY HELD IN THE CHURCH OF /RSANMICHELE AND THE &ESTIVAL %STATE A FESTIVAL HELD IN *ULY IN THE COURTYARD OF THE 0ALAZZO 0ITTI 4HE /RCHESTRA DA #AMERA &IORENTINA &LORENCE #HAMBER /RCHESTRA WWWORCAlIT PLAYS FROM -ARCH TO /CTOBER OFTEN IN /RSANMICHELE OR THE "ADÓA &IORENTINA WHILE FROM !PRIL TO 3EPTEMBER CONCERTS AND DANCES IN PERIOD DRESS ARE STAGED IN THE /RATORIO DI 3AN "ERNARDINO BY THE /RCHESTRA (ISTORICA DI &IRENZE 4HE MAIN CONCERT SEASON OF THE &ILARMONICA DI &IRENZE ' 2OSSINI IS IN *ANUARY AND &EBRUARY BUT IN *UNE IT ALSO PERFORMS A SERIES OF CONCERTS IN 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA AND 4USCANYS MAJOR ORCHESTRA THE /RCHESTRA 2EGIONALE 4OSCANA WWWORCHESTRADELLATOSCANAIT PLAYS ONE OR TWO CONCERTS A MONTH IN THE CITY BETWEEN .OVEMBER AND -AY IN THE 4EATRO 6ERDI AS WELL AS A COUPLE OF CONCERTS IN THE "ØBOLI 'ARDENS 4HE ,UTHERAN CHURCH ON ,UNGARNO 4ORRI GIANI REGULARLY HOLDS FREE CHAMBER MUSIC AND ORGAN RECITALS 4EATRO #OMUNALE #ORSO )TALIA &LORENCES MAIN MUNICIPAL THEATRE OUT TO THE WEST OF 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA WHICH HOSTS MANY OF THE CITYS MAJOR CLASSICAL MUSIC DANCE AND THEATRE EVENTS )T HAS ITS OWN ORCHESTRA CHORUS AND DANCE COMPANY ATTRACTING TOP NAME INTERNATIONAL GUEST PERFORMERS 4HE MAIN SEASON CONCERTS OPERA AND BALLET RUNS *ANn!PRIL AND 3EPTn$EC WITH CONCERTS USUALLY HELD ON &RIDAY 3ATURDAY AND 3UNDAY EVENINGS 4EATRO 'OLDONI 6IA 3ANTA -ARIA 4HIS EXQUISITE LITTLE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY THEATRE LOCATED A LITTLE WAY PAST THE 0AL
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0ERÒTOLA
DADAITTENAX 4HE CITYS LONGEST RUNNING VENUE FOR NEW AND ESTABLISHED BANDS AS WELL AS BIG NAME INTERNATIONAL ACTS +EEP AN EYE OPEN FOR POSTERS AROUND TOWN OR CALL AT THE TOURIST OFlCE FOR UPCOM ING GIGS 4HE PLACE IS ENORMOUS BUT EASY GOING AND DOUBLES AS A CLUB AFTER HOURS P 4HERE ARE RANKS OF BARS POOL TABLES COMPUTER GAMES AND PLENTY OF SEATING
AZZO 0ITTI IS OCCASIONALLY USED FOR CHAMBER MUSIC AND OPERA PERFORMANCES BUT LATELY IT HAS HOSTED MORE DANCE PRODUCTIONS THAN ANYTHING ELSE 4EATRO DELLA 0ERGOLA 6IA DELLA 0ERGOLA WWWPERGOLAlRENZEIT 4HE BEAUTIFUL LITTLE 0ERGOLA WAS BUILT IN AND IS )TALYS OLDEST SURVIVING THEATRE n 6ERDIS -ACBETH WAS lRST PERFORMED HERE )T PLAYS HOST TO CHAMBER CONCERTS SMALL SCALE OPERAS AND SOME OF THE BEST KNOWN )TALIAN THEATRE COMPANIES 4EATRO 6ERDI 6IA 'HIBELLINA n WWWTEATROVERDIlRENZEIT !NOTHER OF THE CITYS PREMIER MUSIC VENUES
-USIC FESTIVALS -AGGIO -USICALE &IORENTINO WWW MAGGIOlORENTINOCOM 4HE HIGHLIGHT OF &LORENCES CULTURAL CALENDAR AND ONE OF %UROPES LEADING FESTIVALS OF OPERA AND CLASSICAL MUSIC CONFUSINGLY IT ISNT RESTRICTED TO -AY -AGGIO BUT
LASTS FOR A COUPLE OF MONTHS FROM LATE !PRIL OR EARLY -AY 4HE FESTIVAL HAS ITS OWN ORCHESTRA CHORUS AND BALLET COMPANY PLUS GUEST APPEARANCES FROM FOREIGN ENSEMBLES %VENTS ARE STAGED AT THE 4EATRO #OMUNALE OR ITS 4EATRO 0ICCOLO THE 4EATRO DELLA
&LORENCES FESTIVALS &LORENCES MAIN CULTURAL FESTIVALS ARE COVERED IN THE h#LASSICAL -USICv SECTION WHAT FOLLOWS IS A RUNDOWN ON ITS MORE FOLKLORIC EVENTS
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3COPPIO DEL #ARRO
\ .IGHTLIFE AND CULTURAL EVENTS
4HE lRST MAJOR FOLK FESTIVAL OF THE YEAR IS %ASTER 3UNDAYS 3COPPIO DEL #ARRO %XPLO SION OF THE #ART WHEN A CARTLOAD OF lREWORKS IS HAULED BY SIX WHITE OXEN FROM THE 0ORTA A 0RATO TO THE $UOMO THERE DURING THE 'LORIA OF THE MIDDAY -ASS THE WHOLE LOT IS SET OFF BY A hDOVEv THAT WHIZZES DOWN A WIRE FROM THE HIGH ALTAR 4HE ORIGINS OF THIS INCENDIARY DESCENT OF THE (OLY 3PIRIT LIE WITH ONE 0AZZINO DE 0AZZI LEADER OF THE &LORENTINE CONTINGENT ON THE &IRST #RUSADE /N GETTING BACK TO &LORENCE HE WAS ENTRUSTED WITH THE CARE OF THE mAME OF (OLY 3ATURDAY AN HONORARY OFlCE WHICH HE TURNED INTO SOMETHING MORE FESTIVE BY RIGGING UP A CEREMONIAL WAGON TO TRANSPORT THE mAME ROUND THE CITY (IS DESCENDANTS CONTINUED TO MANAGE THE FESTIVAL UNTIL THE 0AZZI CONSPIRACY OF WHICH OF COURSE LOST THEM THE OFlCE 3INCE THEN THE CITY AUTHORITIES HAVE TAKEN CARE OF BUSINESS
&ESTA DEL 'RILLO /N THE lRST 3UNDAY AFTER !SCENSION $AY FORTY DAYS AFTER %ASTER THE &ESTA DEL 'RILLO &ESTIVAL OF THE #RICKET IS HELD IN THE #ASCINE PARK )N AMONGST THE STALLS AND THE PICNICKERS YOULL lND PEOPLE SELLING TINY WOODEN CAGES CONTAINING CRICKETS WHICH ARE THEN RELEASED ONTO THE GRASS n A RITUAL THAT MAY HARK BACK TO THE DAYS WHEN FARMERS HAD TO SCOUR THEIR LAND FOR LOCUSTS OR TO THE TRADITION OF MEN PLACING A CRICKET ON THE DOOR OF THEIR LOVERS TO SERENADE THEM
3T *OHNS $AY AND THE #ALCIO 3TORICO 4HE SAINTS DAY OF *OHN THE "APTIST &LORENCES PATRON IS *UNE n THE OCCASION FOR A MASSIVE lREWORKS DISPLAY UP ON 0IAZZALE -ICHELANGELO AND FOR THE lRST GAME OF THE #ALCIO 3TORICO 0LAYED IN SIXTEENTH CENTURY COSTUME TO PERPETUATE THE MEMORY OF A GAME PLAYED DURING THE SIEGE OF THIS UNIQUELY &LORENTINE MAYHEM IS A THREE MATCH SERIES STAGED IN THIS LAST WEEK OF *UNE WITH lXTURES USUALLY HELD IN 0IAZZA 3ANTA #ROCE SCENE OF THAT lRST MATCH AND 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA %ACH OF THE FOUR HISTORIC QUARTERS lELDS A TEAM 3ANTA #ROCE PLAYING IN GREEN 3AN 'IOVANNI IN RED 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA IN BLUE AND 3ANTO 3PIRITO IN GROSSLY IMPRACTICAL WHITE 4HE PRIZE FOR THE WINNING SIDE IS A CALF WHICH GETS ROASTED IN A STREET PARTY AFTER THE TOURNAMENT AND SHARED AMONG THE FOUR TEAMS AND THE INHABITANTS OF THE WINNING QUARTER
&ESTA DELLE 2IlCOLONE 4HE &ESTA DELLE 2IlCOLONE &ESTIVAL OF THE ,ANTERNS TAKES PLACE ON THE 6IRGINS BIRTH DAY 3EPTEMBER WITH A PROCESSION OF CHILDREN TO 0IAZZA 3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATA %ACH CHILD CARRIES A COLOURED PAPER LANTERN WITH A CANDLE INSIDE IT n A THROWBACK TO THE DAYS WHEN PEOPLE FROM THE SURROUNDING COUNTRYSIDE WOULD TROOP BY LANTERN LIGHT INTO THE CITY FOR THE &EAST OF THE 6IRGIN 4HE PROCESSION IS FOLLOWED BY A PARADE OF mOATS AND STREET PARTIES
&ESTA DELL5NITÌ /CTOBERS &ESTA DELL5NITÌ IS PART OF A NATIONWIDE CELEBRATION RUN BY THE )TALIAN COM MUNISTS &LORENCES IS THE BIGGEST EVENT AFTER "OLOGNAS WITH LOADS OF POLITICAL STALLS AND RESTAURANT MARQUEES "OX /FlCE WILL HAVE DETAILS OF VENUES WHILE NEWS ABOUT THE &ESTE AND OTHER POLITICAL EVENTS IN &LORENCE CAN BE FOUND IN !NTEPRIMA A LOCAL SUPPLEMENT PUBLISHED WITH &RIDAYS EDITION OF THE COMMUNIST DAILY ,5NITÌ
0ERGOLA THE 0ALAZZO DEI #ONGRESSI THE 4EATRO 6ERDI AND OCCASIONALLY IN THE "ØBOLI GARDENS )NFORMA
TION AND TICKETS CAN BE OBTAINED FROM THE 4EATRO #OMUNALE
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& , /2% .#% .IGHTLIFE AND CULTURAL EVENTS
5 4HE #ALCIO 3TORICO GETS UNDER WAY ON 0IAZZA 3ANTA #ROCE
%STATE &IESOLANA WWWESTATElESOLANAIT 3LIGHTLY LESS EXCLUSIVE THAN THE -AGGIO -USICALE CONCENTRATING MORE ON CHAMBER AND SYMPHONIC MUSIC )TS HELD IN &IESOLE EVERY SUMMER USUALLY
FROM *UNE TO LATE !UGUST &ILMS AND THEATRE ARE ALSO FEATURED AND MOST EVENTS ARE HELD IN THE OPEN AIR 4EATRO 2OMANO
4HEATRE 3HOULD YOUR )TALIAN BE UP TO A PERFORMANCE OF PLAYS BY -ACHIAVELLI OR 0IRAN DELLO IN THE ORIGINAL &LORENCES THEATRES OFFER YEAR ROUND ENTERTAINMENT )N ADDITION TO THE PLACES LISTED BELOW VARIOUS HALLS AND DISUSED CHURCHES ARE ENLISTED FOR ONE OFF PERFORMANCES 3TAZIONE ,EOPOLDA 6IALE &RATELLI 2OSSELLI WWWSTAZIONE LEOPOLDACOM .EW CONTEMPORARY ARTS CENTRE IN &LORENCES lRST
RAILWAY STATION KM WEST OF 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA "UILT IN AND CLOSED DOWN IN THE OLD STATION IS A lNE .EOCLASSICAL SPACE FOR DANCE ARTS
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\ 3HOPPING
EVENTS AND OCCASIONAL CONCERTS 4EATRO #OMUNALE #ORSO )TALIA &LORENCES PRINCIPAL PERFORMANCE SPACE HOSTS THEATRE PRODUCTIONS AS WELL AS DANCE AND CLAS SICAL MUSIC CONCERTS OFFERINGS HERE ARE USUALLY MAINSTREAM 4EATRO ,E ,AUDI 6IA ,EONARDO DA 6INCI R ,OCATED NORTHEAST OF THE CENTRE A FEW MINUTES WALK FROM 3AN -ARCO STAGES A FAIR AMOUNT OF MODERN WORK
4EATRO DELLA 0ERGOLA 6IA DELLA 0ERGOLA WWWPERGOLAlRENZEIT &INE OLD THEATRE STAGING PRODUCTIONS THAT ARE USUALLY )TALIAN OR FOREIGN CLASSICS IN TRANSLATION 4HE SEASON RUNS FROM /CTOBER TO !PRIL 4EATRO 6ERDI 6IA 'HIBELLINA n WWWTEATROVERDIlRENZEIT 0RO DUCTIONS AT THE 4EATRO 6ERDI ARE MORE OR LESS SIMILAR TO THE MAINSTREAM FARE OF THE 4EATRO #OMUNALE THOUGH YOU MAY ALSO CATCH THE ODD MUSICAL
#INEMA &LORENCE HAS A LARGE NUMBER OF CINEMAS BUT VERY FEW SHOW SUBTITLED lLMS 4HE VAST MAJORITY OF %NGLISH LANGUAGE lLMS ARE DUBBED THOUGH A COUPLE OF CINEMAS DO REGULARLY HAVE UNDUBBED SCREENINGS VERSIONE ORIGINALE 3EE &IRENZE 3PETTACOLO OR THE LISTINGS PAGES OF ,A .AZIONE FOR LOCATIONS AND LATEST SCREENINGS &LORENCE HAS TWO MAJOR lLM FESTIVALS 5NDER &LORENCE lRST TWO WEEKS OF $EC WHICH SHOWS )TALIAN INDEPENDENT lLMS AND VIDEOS AND THE MORE EARNEST &ESTIVAL DEI 0OPOLI WEEKS IN .OV OR $EC RUN BY AN ACADEMIC INSTITUTION CONCERNED WITH DOCUMENTARY lLM &OR INFORMATION ON BOTH EVENTS CONTACT THE #INEMA !LlERI !TELIER 6IA DELL5LIVO #INEMA 'OLDONI 6IA DEI 3ERRAGLI &LORENCES BEST CINEMA -OST WEEKS IT HAS AN %NGLISH LANGUAGE NIGHT USU ALLY 7ED 4HE SHOWS ARE POPULAR HOWEVER SO TURN UP EARLY TO BE SURE OF A SEAT #LOSED *UNE *ULY
/DEON /RIGINAL 3OUND 6IA DE 3ASSETTI &ILMS ARE SCREENED IN THEIR ORIGINAL LANGUAGE AT THIS AIR CONDITIONED CINEMA ONCE A WEEK GENERALLY ON -ON FOR MOST OF THE YEAR PLUS 4UES AND 4HURS IN SUMMER
3HOPPING
)F YOURE AFTER HIGH QUALITY CLOTHES AND ACCESSORIES PAINTINGS PRINTS AND MARBLED PAPER OR ANY NUMBER OF OTHER BEAUTIFUL OR LUXURY OBJECTS THEN YOULL lND THEM IN &LORENCE n THOUGH THIS IS NOT A CITY FOR THE BARGAIN HUNTER )TS BEST KNOWN AREA OF MANUFACTURING EXPERTISE IS LEATHER GOODS WITH TOP QUALITY SHOES BAGS AND GLOVES SOLD ACROSS THE CITY 4HE MAIN CONCENTRATION OF OUTLETS IS AROUND 6IA DE 4ORNABUONI n THE CITYS PREMIER SHOPPING THOROUGHFARE n AND THE TRIBUTARIES OF 6IA DEGLI 3TROZZI AND 6IA DELLA 6IGNA .UOVA ALSO HOME TO THE SHOPS OF )TALYS TOP FASHION DESIGNERS )F THEIR PRICES ARE TOO STEEP PASSABLE IMITATIONS AND OUTRIGHT FAKES CAN BE UNEARTHED AT THE VARIOUS STREET MARKETS OF WHICH 3AN ,ORENZO IS THE MOST CENTRAL )TS ALSO WORTH HAVING A LOOK IN THE AREA OF 6IA -ATTEO 0ALMIERI AND "ORGO DEGLI !LBIZI A COUPLE OF MINUTES WALK EAST AND NORTH OF THE "ARGELLO RESPECTIVELY FOR CHEAPER TRENDY CLOTHES AND JEWELLERY )F YOU WANT EVERYTHING UNDER ONE ROOF THERES ALSO A HANDFUL OF DEPARTMENT STORES -ARBLED PAPER IS ANOTHER &LORENTINE SPECIALITY AND AS YOUD EXPECT IN THIS ARTY CITY &LORENCE IS ALSO ONE OF THE BEST PLACES IN THE COUNTRY TO PICK UP BOOKS ON )TALIAN ART ARCHITECTURE AND CULTURE 4HE WHOLE 0ONTE 6ECCHIO IS CRAMMED WITH JEWELLERS SHOPS MOST OF THEM CATERING STRICTLY TO THE lNANCIAL STRATOSPHERE 4HOSE OF MORE LIMITED MEANS COULD EITHER TAKE A CHANCE ON THE COUNTERFEITS AND LOW COST ORIGINALS PEDDLED BY THE STREET VENDORS ON AND AROUND THE BRIDGE OR CHECK OUT OUR RECOMMENDATIONS BELOW &OR DELICATESSENS AND FOOD STORES SEE THE BOX ON P AND FOR WINE SHOPS SEE THE ENOTECHE ON P
-ARKETS
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#ASCINE 0ARCO DEL #ASCINE 4HE BIGGEST OF ALL &LORENCES MARKETS HAPPENS 4UESDAY MORNING AT THE #ASCINE PARK NEAR THE BANKS OF THE !RNO BUS OR C WHERE HUNDREDS OF STALLHOLDERS SET UP AN ALFRESCO BUDGET CLASS DEPARTMENT STORE &EWER TOURISTS MAKE IT OUT HERE THAN TO 3AN ,ORENZO SO PRICES ARE KEENER #LOTHES SOME SECONDHAND AND SHOES ARE THE BEST BARGAINS THOUGH FOR CHEAPER STILL YOU SHOULD CHECK OUT THE WEEKDAY MORNING STALLS AT 0IAZZA DELLE #URE JUST BEYOND 0IAZZA DELLA ,IBERTÌ BUS OR 4UES AMnPM 3AN ,ORENZO 0IAZZA DI 3AN ,ORENZO !NOTHER OPEN AIR WAREHOUSE OF CHEAP CLOTH ING 3AN ,ORENZO IS AS WELL ORGANIZED AS A SHOPPING MALL HUGE WATERPROOF AWNINGS ENSURE THAT THE WEATHER CANT STOP THE TRADING AND SOME OF THE STALLHOLDERS EVEN ACCEPT CREDIT CARDS 9OULL lND PLENTY OF LEATHER JACKETS 4 SHIRTS AND OTHER CHEAP CLOTHES IT MAY BE WHAT YOURE LOOKING FOR BUT IT MAY NOT BE THAT MUCH OF A BARGAIN &OR ANYTHING PRICEY TRY TO HAGGLE $AILY AMnPM -ERCATO #ENTRALE 0IAZZA DEL -ERCATO #ENTRALE %UROPES LARGEST INDOOR FOOD HALL IS SITUATED AT THE HEART OF THE STALL lLLED STREETS AROUND 3AN ,ORENZO AND IS WELL WORTH A SIGHTSEEING AND PEOPLE WATCHING VISIT WHETHER YOU INTEND TO BUY ANYTHING OR NOT )TS POPULARITY AS A TOURIST SIGHT HAS PUSHED PRICES UP BUT ITS STILL UNBEATABLE FOR PICNIC SUPPLIES -ONn3AT AMnPM PLUS 3AT nPM IN WINTER -ERCATO .UOVO ,OGGIA DEL -ERCATO .UOVO *UST TO THE WEST OF 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA AND ALSO KNOWN AS THE -ERCATO DEL 0ORCELLINO THIS IS THE MAIN EMPORIUM FOR STRAW HATS PLASTIC $AVIDS AND THE LIKE -ID &EB TO MID .OV DAILY AMnPM MID .OV TO MID &EB 4UESn3AT AMnPM -ERCATO DELLE 0ULCI 0IAZZA DEI #IOMPI ! mEA MARKET STACKED WITH ANTIQUES AND BRIC A BRAC PITCHED EVERY DAY NEAR THE 3ANT!MBROGIO FOOD MARKET 3UMMER -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM WINTER -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM ALSO OPEN SAME HOURS ON LAST 3UN OF MONTH -ORE SERIOUS ANTIQUE DEALERS SWELL THE RANKS ON THE LAST 3UNDAY OF EACH MONTH SAME HOURS -ERCATO 3AN !MBROGIO 0IAZZA 'HIBERTI "IG CHEAP MARKET JUST BEYOND 3ANTA #ROCE WITH FOOD STALLS IN THE CENTRAL HALL AS WELL AS CHEAP CLOTHES AND LEATHER -ONn3AT AMnPM
"OOKS AND MAPS "- "ORGO /GNISSANTI R %NG LISH LANGUAGE BOOKSHOP SELLING A WIDE SELECTION OF GUIDEBOOKS AND GENERAL TITLES WITH PARTICULAR EMPHASIS ON )TALIAN LITERATURE IN TRANSLATION AS WELL AS BOOKS ON )TALIAN ART COOKERY AND TRAVEL IN )TALY -ONn3AT AMnPM !PRILn$EC ALSO 3UN AMnPM nPM %DISON 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA R 4HIS 53 STYLE OPERATION IS ARRANGED ON FOUR mOORS WITH %NGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKS ON THE TOP THE STOCK IS IMPRESSIVE AND THE OPENING HOURS UNIQUE -ONn3AT AMnMIDNIGHT 3UN AMnMIDNIGHT &ELTRINELLI 6IA DE #ERRETANI R WWWFELTRINELLIIT 4HIS BRANCH OF THE &ELTRINELLI CHAIN A SHORT DISTANCE WEST OF THE $UOMO IS BEST FOR )TALIAN TITLES MAPS AND GUIDES -ONn&RI AMn PM 3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM nPM &ELTRINELLI )NTERNATIONAL 6IA #AVOUR nR
"RIGHT AND WELL STAFFED THIS IS THE lRST PORT OF CALL FOR %NGLISH OR OTHER FOREIGN LANGUAGE BOOKS NEWSPAPERS AND VIDEOS AS WELL AS POSTERS CARDS AND MAGAZINES -ONn3AT AMnPM ,IBRERIA %04 6IA #ONDOTTA R #ITY MAPS AND WALKING MAPS OF SUR ROUNDING AREA -ON nPM 4UESn3AT AMnPM PM -C2AE 6IA DE .ERI R WWWMCRAEBOOKSCOMSHOP 2UN BY A FORMER STAFF MEMBER OF 3EEBER SEE BELOW THIS BOOKSHOP NOT FAR FROM THE 5FlZI HAS ONE OF THE lNEST COLLECTIONS OF %NGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKS IN TOWN GUIDES COOKERY BOOKS LITERATURE AND ART ALL COVERED $AILY AMnPM 0APERBACK %XCHANGE 6IA DELLE /CHE R WWWPAPEXIT ! BIT REMOTE n NORTH OF 3ANTA #ROCE n BUT ALWAYS HAS A GOOD STOCK OF %NGLISH AND !MERICAN BOOKS WITH THE
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EMPHASIS ON )TALIAN RELATED TITLES AND SECONDHAND STUFF ALSO EXCHANGES SECONDHAND BOOKS AND HAS INFORMATIVE AND FRIENDLY STAFF -ONn&RI AMn PM 3AT AMnPM nPM 3EEBER 6IA DE #ERRETANI R WWWMELBOOKSTOREIT $ISPLACED FROM ITS FAMOUS
OLD (1 ON 6IA DE 4ORNABUONI THE VENERABLE 3EEBER NOW OCCUPIES A FORMER CINEMA AND HAS BEEN THOR OUGHLY hMODERNIZEDv BY ITS NEW OWNERS )TS LOST ITS SOUL IN THE PROCESS BUT THE STOCK IS STILL IMPRESSIVE -ONn3AT AMnPM
#LOTHING
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!RMANI 6IA DE 4ORNABUONI nR WWWARMANICOM 'ORGEOUS CLOTHES FROM THE MOST FAMOUS DESIGNER IN )TALY AT PRICES THAT MAKE YOU THINK YOU MUST HAVE MISREAD THE TAG -ON AMnPM nPM 4UESn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM #OMPAI 6IA -ATTEO 0ALMIERI R WWCOMPAICOM 7HACKY RECYCLED VINTAGE CLOTHES BY YOUNG DESIGNERS -ON nPM 4UESn3AT NOONnPM $OLCE E 'ABBANA 6IA DELLA 6IGNA .UOVA 4HE 6ENETIAN 3ICILIAN DOUBLE ACT ARE NOW IN THE SAME BIG LEAGUE AS !RMANI AND 6ERSACE BUT THEIR EXTRAVAGANT n OFTEN CAMP n AES THETIC HASNT BEEN TAMED BY SUCCESS -ON nPM 4UESn3AT AMnPM %MPORIO !RMANI 0IAZZA 3TROZZI nR WWWEMPORIOARMANICOM 4HE LOWEST PRICED WING OF THE !RMANI EMPIRE THIS IS THE PLACE TO GO IF YOURE DESPERATE TO GET THE !RMA NI LABEL ON YOUR BACK -ON nPM 4UESn3AT AMnPM nPM &ERRAGAMO 6IA DE 4ORNABUONI R T 3ALVATORE &ERRAGAMO EMIGRATED TO THE 53 AT THE AGE OF AND BECAME THE MOST FAMOUS SHOE MAKER IN THE WORLD PRODUCING EVERYTHING FROM PEARL STUDDED NUMBERS FOR 'LORIA 3WANSON TO GLAD IATORS SANDALS FOR #ECIL " DE -ILLE -ANAGED BY HIS WIDOW AND CHILDREN &ERRAGAMO NOW PRODUCES READY TO WEAR OUTlTS BUT THE COMPANYS REPUTATION STILL RESTS ON ITS BEAUTIFUL SHOES 4HE SHOP OCCUPY ING VIRTUALLY THE ENTIRE GROUND mOOR OF A COLOSSAL PALAZZO ON 0IAZZA 3ANTA 4RÖNITA IS UNBELIEVABLY GRANDIOSE -ONn3AT AMnPM 'UCCI 6IA DE 4ORNABUONI R AND R
4HE 'UCCI EMPIRE WAS FOUNDED AT NO WHICH REMAINS THE mAGSHIP SHOWROOM THOUGH THE CREATIVE HEAD OF THE COMPANY IS NO LONGER A MEMBER OF THE 'UCCI CLAN n 4EXAN DESIGN ER 4OM &ORD MASTERMINDED THE REINVENTION OF THE LABEL AS ONE OF THE COOLEST AROUND BEFORE MOVING ON IN -ON nPM 4UESn3AT AMnPM ,UISA AT 6IA 2OMA 6IA 2OMA nR ! LONGSTANDING lXTURE AT THIS ADDRESS GATHERING TOGETHER A HOST OF DIFFERENT LABELS EVERY SEASON BUT WITH A TENDENCY TO PLAY IT SAFE -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM 0ONCIF "ORGO !LBIZI R %LEGANT CONTEMPORARY WOMENS FASHION OUTLET STOCKING A RANGE OF LABELS -ON nPM 4UESn4HURS AMnPM nPM &RI 3AT AMnPM 0RADA 6IA DE 4ORNABUONI nR R WWWPRADAIT $URING THE S THE SEVERE STYLE OF -ILANESE DESIGNER -IUCCIA 0RADA BECAME SUPREMELY TRENDY AND SHES STILL RID ING HIGH -ONn3AT AMnPM LAST 3UN OF THE MONTH AMnPM 0UCCI 6IA DE 4ORNABUONI nR 4HE 0UCCI FAMILY WAS ONE OF THE CITYS MERCANTILE DYNASTIES UNTIL -ARCHESE %MILIO 0UCCI GATECRASHED THE FASHION WORLD OF THE S WITH HIS VIVID SWIRL ING PATTERNED SILKS WHICH REMAIN THE 0UCCI SIGNA TURE -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM 2ASPINI 6IA 0OR 3ANTA -ARIA R 6IA 2OMA R WWWRASPINI COM &LORENCES BIGGEST MULTI LABEL CLOTHES SHOP WITH A GOOD STOCK OF DIFFUSION LINES 4HESE ARE THE TWO MAIN BRANCHES AND THERES A THIRD ONE AT 6IA DE -ARTELLI nR -ON nPM 4UESn3AT AMnPM
$EPARTMENT STORES
#OIN 6IA DEI #ALZAIUOLI R BUT WITH ENTRANCES ON ALL FOUR SIDES OF THE BLOCK WWW COINIT #LOTHES DOMINATED CHAIN STORE IN AN EXCEL LENT CENTRAL POSITION 1UALITY IS GENERALLY HIGH THOUGH STYLES ARE FAIRLY CONSERVATIVE EXCEPT FOR ONE OR TWO YOUTH ORIENTED FRANCHISES ON THE GROUND mOOR !LSO A GOOD PLACE FOR LINEN AND OTHER HOUSE HOLD GOODS -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM
2INASCENTE 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA WWWRINASCENTEIT ,IKE #OIN 2INASCENTE IS PART OF A COUNTRYWIDE CHAIN THOUGH THIS STORE OPENED IN IS A TOUCH MORE UPMARKET THAN ITS NEARBY RIVAL 3ELLS CLOTHING LINEN COSMETICS HOUSEHOLD GOODS AND OTHER STAPLES -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM
*EWELLERY
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OUTLET ONE OF THE CITYS MORE ADVENTUROUS JEWELLERY WORKSHOPS -ON nPM 4UESn3AT AMn PM nPM -OLTISSIMO 6IA -ATTEO 0ALMIERI R 2EMODELLED VINTAGE JEWELLERY n STRONG ON S STYLE n AND ACCESSORIES AS WELL AS PLEASINGLY SIMPLE DESIGNS OF RETRO HAND PAINTED CHINA -ONn3AT AMnPM 4ORRINI 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO R 4ORRINI REGISTERED ITS TRADEMARK n A DISTINCTIVE HALF CLOVER LEAF WITH SPUR n AS EARLY AS 3EVEN CENTURIES LATER THIS STORE REMAINS ONE OF THE PREMIER PLACES TO BUY &LORENTINE JEWELLERY GOLD PREDOMINATES BUT ALL MANNER OF CLASSIC AND MOD ERN PIECES ARE AVAILABLE AT A PRICE -ON nPM 4UESn3AT AMnPM nPM
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!LESSANDRO $ARI 6IA 3AN .ICOLÛ R WWWALESSANDRODARICOM 4HIS GOLDSMITHS WORKSHOP IN EASTERN /LTRARNO PRODUCES INTRICATE RINGS WITH MUSICAL AND ARCHI TECTURAL MOTIFS 9OU CAN WALK AROUND THE DISPLAY OF !LESSANDROS WORK TO LOUD CLASSICAL MUSIC AS THE MASTER WORKS AWAY -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM $ETTAGLI PER DONZELLE COMARI E SOGNATORI "ORGO DEGLI !LBIZI R &UNKY BRIGHTLY COLOURED HANDMADE JEWELLERY AND ACCESSORIES AT REASONABLE PRICES -ON nPM 4UESn3AT AMnPM 'ATTO "IANCO "ORGO 33 !POSTOLI R 3TRANGE COMBINATIONS OF PRECIOUS AND EVERYDAY MATERIALS ARE THE SIGNATURE OF THIS
-USIC !LBERTI 6IA DE 0UCCI R "ORGO 3AN ,ORENZO n R &OUNDED IN THIS IS THE CITYS LEADING SUPPLIER OF DOMESTIC HI l VIDEOS RECORDS AND #$S 4HE "ORGO 3AN ,ORENZO STORE IS GOOD FOR OPERA CLASSICAL AND JAZZ WHILE THE 6IA DE 0UCCI SHOP A COUPLE OF BLOCKS TO THE EAST CONCENTRATES ON CONTEMPORARY MUSIC DANCE ROCK ETC *UNEn3EPT -ON nPM 4UESn3AT AMnPM /CTn-AY -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM $ATA 2ECORDS 6IA DE .ERI R (UGE COLLECTION OF NEW AND SECONDHAND ALBUMS COVERING ROCK POP REGGAE JAZZ PUNK HEAVY METAL
ETC NOT FAR FROM THE 5FlZI &ENICE 6IA 3ANTA 2EPARATA B 3MALL RECORD SHOP IN THE BACK STREETS BEYOND 3AN ,ORENZO WITH A FANTASTIC STOCK OF CLASSICAL MUSIC AND HELPFUL STAFF 4HEY ALSO HAVE A SMALLER SELEC TION OF JAZZ AND OTHER MUSIC -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 2ICORDI -EDIA 3TORE 6IA "RUNELLESCHI nR 4HE CITYS BIGGEST GENERAL #$ STORE JUST OFF 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA -ONn3AT AMnPM PLUS 3EPTn*UNE LAST 3UN OF MONTH nPM
0APER AND STATIONERY 'IULIO 'IANNINI E &IGLIO 0IAZZA 0ITTI R WWWGIULIOGIANNINI IT %STABLISHED IN THIS PAPER MAKING AND BOOK BINDING lRM HAS BEEN HONOURED WITH EXHIBI TIONS DEDICATED TO ITS WORK /NCE THE ONLY PLACE IN &LORENCE TO MAKE ITS OWN MARBLED PAPERS IT NOW OFFERS A WIDE VARIETY OF DIARIES ADDRESS BOOKS AND SO FORTH AS WELL -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM )L 0APIRO 6IA #AVOUR R WWW ILPAPIROlRENZEIT (UGE RANGE OF MARBLED PAPER AND GIFTS IN SEVEN OUTLETS AROUND THE CITY INCLUD ING 6IA DE 4AVOLINI R AND 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO R -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 0INEIDER 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA R 6IA DE 4ORN
ABUONI R 0INEIDER SELLS BRIEFCAS ES PICTURE FRAMES AND OTHER ACCESSORIES FOR HOME AND OFlCE BUT THEIR REPUTATION RESTS ON THEIR COLOUR CO ORDINATED CALLING CARDS HANDMADE PAPERS AND ENVELOPES n AS USED BY .APOLEON 3TENDHAL "YRON AND 3HELLEY TO NAME JUST A FEW PAST CUSTOMERS -ON nPM 4UESn&RI AMnPM nPM PLUS 3AT nPM IN *ULY !UG CLOSED ND WEEK OF !UG )L 4ORCHIO 6IA DE "ARDI ! MARBLED PAPER WORKSHOP USING MANUFACTUR ING TECHNIQUES KNOWN ONLY TO THE OWNER $ESK ACCESSORIES DIARIES ALBUMS AND OTHER ITEMS IN PAPER AND LEATHER ARE ALSO AVAILABLE -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM
0ERFUME AND TOILETRIES &ARMACIA 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA 6IA DELLA 3CALA WWW SMNOVELLAIT /CCUPYING THE PHARMACY OF THE
3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA MONASTERY THIS SIXTEENTH CENTURY SHOP WAS FOUNDED BY $OMINICAN MONKS AS AN OUTLET FOR THEIR POTIONS OINTMENTS AND
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HERBAL REMEDIES -ANY OF THESE ARE STILL AVAIL ABLE INCLUDING DISTILLATIONS OF mOWERS AND HERBS TOGETHER WITH FACE CREAMS SHAMPOOS AND OTHER MORE ESOTERIC PRODUCTS 4HE SHOPS AS FAMOUS FOR ITS WONDERFUL INTERIOR AS FOR ITS PRODUCTS WHICH ARE SOLD WORLDWIDE -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM
3PEZIERIA %RBORISTA 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO 6IA 6AC CHERCCIA R ! CELEBRATED OLD SHOP SELLING ITS OWN NATURAL REMEDIES AND A RANGE OF UNIQUE PERFUMES SUCH AS !CQUA DI #ATERINA DE -EDICI *ULY !UG -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM 3EPTn*UNE -ONn3AT AMnPM ST AND LAST 3UN OF MONTH nPM
0RINTS AND PHOTOS
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!LINARI ,ARGO !LINARI WWWALINARICOM &OUNDED IN THIS IS THE WORLDS OLDEST PHOTOGRAPHIC BUSINESS /WNERS OF THE BEST ARCHIVE OF OLD PHOTOGRAPHS IN )TALY n GLASS PLATES AND NEGA TIVES n THEY WILL PRINT ANY IMAGE YOU CHOOSE FROM THEIR HUGE CATALOGUE 4HEY ALSO PUBLISH BOOKS CALENDARS POSTERS AND CARDS 4UESn&RI AMnPM nPM 3AT AMnPM nPM CLOSED TWO WEEKS IN MID !UG
'IOVANNI "ACCANI 6IA DELLA 6IGNA .UOVA R 9OULL SEE PRINTS AND ENGRAVINGS IN SHOPS ACROSS &LORENCE BUT NOWHERE IS THE SELEC TION AS MOUTHWATERING AS IN "ACCANI A BEAUTIFUL OLD SHOP ESTABLISHED IN THATS CRAMMED WITH ALL MANNER OF PRINTS FRAMES AND PAINTINGS 0RICES RANGE FROM A FEW EUROS INTO THE REALMS OF CREDIT CARD MADNESS -ON nPM 4UESn3AT AMn PM nPM *ULY CLOSED 3AT AFTERNOONS CLOSED lRST THREE WEEKS OF !UG
3HOES BAGS GLOVES AND HATS "ORSALINO 6IA 0ORTA 2OSSA R &INE TRAD HAT SHOP FOR MEN WITH SOME GENUINE FOLD AWAY 0ANAMAS !NOTHER BRANCH AT 6IA DELLA 6IGNA .UOVA R SELLS WOMENS HATS AND YOUNGER STYLES #ELLERINI 6IA DEL 3OLE R "AGS BAGS AND MORE BAGS %VERYTHING HERE IS MADE ON THE PREMISES UNDER THE SUPERVISION OF THE lRMS FOUNDERS THE CITYS PREMIER EXPONENTS OF THE CRAFT BAGS DONT COME MORE ELEGANT DURABLE n OR COSTLY 3UMMER -ONn&RI AMnPM nPM 3AT AMn PM WINTER -ON nPM 4UESn3AT AMnPM nPM #RISTINA E I SUOI #OLORI 0IAZZA . 3AURO R ,OCATED AT THE SOUTHERN END OF 0ONTE ALLA #ARRAIA #RISTINA AND HER #OLOURS IS AS THE NAME SUGGESTS n ITS OVERmOWING WITH DRAMAT IC COLOURFUL HANDMADE HATS BAGS JEWELLERY AND LOVELY mOWER SHAPED LAMPS -ON nPM 4UESn3AT AMnPM nPM
&RANCESCO DA &IRENZE 6IA 3ANTO 3PIRITO R (ANDMADE SHOES FOR MEN AND WOMEN AT VERY REASONABLE PRICES #LASSICAL FOOTWEAR COMBINED WITH STRIKING DESIGNS -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM !UG CLOSED 3AT AFTERNOON -ADOVA 6IA 'UICCIARDINI R 4HE LAST WORD IN GLOVES n EVERY COLOUR EVERY SIZE EVERY STYLE 0RICES RANGE FROM AROUND + TO + -ONn3AT AMnPM -ANNINA 6IA 'UICCIARDINI R 4HIS FAMED /LTRARNO SHOEMAKER HAS BEEN GOING FOR DONKEYS YEARS PRODUCING BEAUTIFULLY MADE AND SENSIBLE FOOTWEAR AT PRICES THAT ARE FAR FROM EXTRAVAGANT -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM nPM 3TEFANO "EMER "ORGO 3AN &REDIANO R WWWBEMERSIT )F YOURE IN THE MARKET FOR MADE TO MEASURE )TALIAN SHOES THERES NO BETTER PLACE THAN THIS -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM
,ISTINGS
"ANKS AND EXCHANGE &LORENCES MAIN BANK BRANCHES ARE ON OR AROUND 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA BUT EXCHANGE BOOTHS CAMBIO AND !4- CASH CARD MACHINES BANCOMAT FOR 6ISA AND -ASTERCARD ADVANCES CAN BE FOUND ACROSS THE CITY "ANKS GENERALLY OPEN -ONn&RI AMnPM AND nPM THOUGH SOME ARE OPEN LONGER HOURS ! USEFUL 4RAVELEX BRANCH IS AT ,UNGARNO !CCIAIUOLI
R -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM !MERICAN %XPRESS IS AT 6IA $ANTE !LIGHIERI R -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM "IKE SCOOTER MOPED RENTAL !LINARI 6IA 'UELFA R WWWALINARIRENTAL COM &LORENCE BY "IKE 6IA 3AN :ANOBI nR WWWmORENCEBYBIKEIT THEY ALSO
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STAR HOTELS OF THE STATION AND 3AN ,ORENZO DISTRICTS !SK AT YOUR HOTEL FOR THE NEAREST OR HEAD FOR ONE OF THE FOLLOWING 'UELFA 6IA 'UELFA R /NDA "LU 6IA DEGLI !LFANI R 3ELF 3ERVICE 6IA &AENZA R 7ASH $RY WHICH HAS ELEVEN SITES IN THE CITY OPEN TILL PM INCLUDING 6IA DEI 3ERVI R 6IA DELLA 3CALA R 6IA DEL 3OLE R 6IA 'HIBELLINA R 6IA DEI 3ERRAGLI R AND 6IA .AZIONALE R ,EFT LUGGAGE 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA STATION BY PLAT FORM DAILY AMnMIDNIGHT + PER PIECE FOR HR THEN + PER HOUR 9OULL NEED TO PRODUCE SOME FORM OF IDENTIlCATION ,OST PROPERTY ,OST PROPERTY HANDED INTO THE CITY OR RAILWAY POLICE ENDS UP AT 6IA #IRCONDARIA B 3EPTn*ULY -ON 7ED &RI 3AT AMnNOON 4UES 4HURS AMnNOON nPM !UG -ONn&RI AMnNOON TAKE BUS TO 6IALE #ORSICA 4HERES ALSO A LOST PROPERTY OFlCE AT 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA STATION ON PLATFORM NEXT TO LEFT LUGGAGE DAILY AMnNOON 0HARMACIES 4HE &ARMACIA #OMUNALE ON THE TRAIN STATION CONCOURSE IS OPEN HR AS IS !LL )NSEGNA DEL -ORO 0IAZZA 3AN 'IOVANNI R ON THE NORTH SIDE OF THE "APTISTERY AND &ARMACIA -OLTENI 6IA DEI #ALZAIUOLI R .ORMAL OPENING HOURS FOR PHARMACIES ARE -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM !LL PHARMA CIES DISPLAY A LATE NIGHT ROSTER IN THEIR WINDOW OTHERWISE RING FOR INFORMATION 0OLICE %MERGENCY OR 4HE 1UESTURA WHERE YOU SHOULD REPORT A LOST PASSPORT OR A THEFT IS AT 6IA :ARA DAILY AMnPM TRANSLATOR ON HAND AMnPM )F YOU DO REPORT A THEFT OR OTHER CRIME YOU WILL HAVE TO lLL OUT A FORM UNA DENUNCIA THIS MAY BE TIME CONSUMING BUT ITS ESSENTIAL IF YOU WANT TO MAKE A CLAIM ON YOUR TRAVEL INSURANCE ON RETURNING HOME 0OST OFlCE 4HE MAIN CENTRAL POST OFlCE IS NEAR 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA AT 6IA 0ELLICCERIA -ONn3AT AMnPM THE POSTE RESTANTE SECTION IS THROUGH THE DOOR IMMEDIATELY ON THE LEFT AS YOU ENTER )F YOURE HAVING MAIL SENT TO YOU POSTE RESTANTE MAKE SURE ITS MARKED FOR 6IA 0ELLICCERIA OTHERWISE IT WILL GO TO &LORENCES BIGGEST POST OFlCE AT 6IA 0IETRA PIANA n -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMn PM )F ALL YOU WANT ARE STAMPS FRANCOBOLLI THEN ITS EASIER TO BUY THEM AT A TOBACCONISTS TABACCAIO WHICH ARE MARKED BY A SIGN OUTSIDE WITH A WHITE h4v ON A BLUE BACKGROUND 4OILETS 0UBLIC TOILETS ARE USUALLY OPEN AMnPM DAILY AND COST + 4HEY ARE MARKED ON A MAP GIVEN OUT BY THE TOURIST OFlCE ,OCATIONS INCLUDE THE TOP OF 6IA &ILIPPINA BEHIND THE "ARGELLO AT THE TOURIST OFlCE ON "ORGO 3ANTA #ROCE IN THE SUBWAY AT 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA STATION AND 6IA DELLA 3TUFFA NEAR THE -ERCATO #ENTRALE
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6ILLA -EDICEA ,A 0ETRAIA
\ 4HE -EDICI VILLAS
4HE 6ILLA ,A 0ETRAIA WAS ADAPTED FROM A MEDIEVAL CASTLE IN THE S AND S BY "UONTALENTI WORKING TO A COMMISSION FROM THE FUTURE 'RAND $UKE &ERDINANDO ) BUS FROM 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA TRAIN STATION n ASK THE DRIVER TO SET YOU DOWN NEAR THE VILLA /NLY THE WATCHTOWER OF THE FORTRESS WAS RETAINED TO SERVE AS A HIGH RISE BELVEDERE ABOVE THE SIMPLE TWO STOREY HOUSE 4HE INTERIOR DAILY *UNEn!UG AMnPM !PRIL -AY 3EPT CLOSES PM -ARCH /CT CLOSES PM .OVn&EB CLOSES PM CLOSED ST RD -ON OF MONTH + INCLUDES GARDENS OF 6ILLA DI #ASTELLO WAS ALTERED IN TURN BY 6IT TORIO %MANUELE )) WHO GLASSED OVER THE INTERIOR COURTYARD TO CONVERT IT INTO A BALLROOM )TS WALLS ARE COVERED BY A SEVENTEENTH CENTURY FRESCO CYCLE GLORIFYING THE -EDICI AND THE +NIGHTS OF 3T 3TEPHEN A PSEUDO CHIVALRIC ORDER FOUNDED BY #OSIMO ) TO RID THE 4USCAN COAST OF PIRATES 4HE SUFFOCATING STYLE OF THE (OUSE OF 3AVOY TENDS TO PREVAIL IN THE VILLAS APARTMENTS THOUGH THIS IS OFFSET BY THE OCCASIONAL SIXTEENTH CENTURY TAPESTRY OR PAINTING 4HERE IS ALSO 'IAMBOLOGNAS BRONZE STATUE OF 6ENUS NOW TRANSPLANTED INDOORS FROM THE FOUNTAIN ON THE UPPER TERRACE OF THE GARDEN ,AID OUT IN GEOMETRICAL ORDER IN HALF HEARTED IMITATION OF THE #ASTELLO ESTATE THE GARDEN ISNT MUCH TO GET EXCITED ABOUT BUT THE PARK BEHIND THE VILLA TO THE EAST IS GLORIOUS WITH ITS ANCIENT CYPRESS TREES GROUNDS CLOSE HR LATER THAN THE VILLA
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.OT EVERY -EDICI VILLA IS COVERED IN THIS SECTION JUST THE ONES THAT ARE EASILY ACCESSIBLE ON A DAY TRIP FROM &LORENCE AND WHOSE INTERIOR OR GROUNDS ARE OPEN TO THE PUBLIC 4HE VILLAS OF 4REBBIO AND #AFAGGIOLO ARE DESCRIBED LATER IN THIS CHAPTER SEE P WHILE THE 6ILLA -EDICI AT #ERRETO 'UIDI CLOSER TO %MPOLI THAN TO &LORENCE IS DEALT WITH ON P 4HIS SECTION ALSO INCLUDES A FEW SIGHTS WHICH CAN BE VISITED ON AN EXCURSION TO ONE OF THE HOUSES n THE CHURCH AT #ARMIGNANO FOR EXAMPLE WITH ITS REMARK ABLE 0ONTORMO ALTARPIECE
6ILLA -EDICEA DI #ASTELLO &ROM 6ILLA ,A 0ETRAIA FOLLOW 6IA DELLA 0ETRAIA PAST 6ILLA "EL 2IPOSO WHERE #ARLO ,ORENZINI WROTE 0INOCCHIO TO THE "AROQUE 6ILLA #ORSINI FROM WHERE 6IA DI #ASTELLO LEADS TO THE 6ILLA DI #ASTELLO 4HIS HOUSE WAS BOUGHT IN BY ,ORENZO AND 'IOVANNI DE -EDICI SECOND COUSINS OF ,ORENZO IL -AGNIlCO AND THE PRINCIPAL PATRONS OF "OTTICELLI THE "IRTH OF 6ENUS AND THE 0RIMAVERA BOTH USED TO HANG HERE 7RECKED AFTER THE EXPULSION OF THE -EDICI IT WAS REBUILT FOR #OSIMO ) AND IS NOW THE HEADQUARTERS OF THE !CCADEMIA DELLA #RUSCA THE SOCIETY CHARGED WITH MAINTAINING THE PURITY OF THE )TALIAN LANGUAGE 4HE SOCIETY DOESNT ALLOW VISITORS INTO THE HOUSE BUT THATS NO GREAT HARDSHIP AS ITS 0ONTORMO AND "RONZINO FRESCOES PERISHED A LONG TIME BACK AND THE VIL LAS FAME RESTS ENTIRELY ON ITS GARDENS SAME HOURS TICKET AS 6ILLA ,A 0ETRAIA WHICH WERE LAID OUT BY 4RIBOLO FOR #OSIMO AND CONTINUED BY "UONTALENTI WHO ALSO REDESIGNED THE HOUSE (AD THE FULL SCHEME BEEN CARRIED OUT OVER lFTY SCULPTURAL TABLEAUX WOULD HAVE REPRESENTED THE SEASONS THE VIRTUES THE LAND SCAPES OF 4USCANY AND OF COURSE THE TRIUMPHS OF THE -EDICI %VEN IN A STATE OF SEMI COMPLETION #ASTELLOS GARDENS WERE ASTONISHING DELIGHTED BY THEIR LABY RINTHS SCULPTURES FOUNTAINS AND MYRIAD WATER TRICKS -ONTAIGNE JUDGED THEM TO BE THE BEST IN %UROPE /F THE SURVIVING ECCENTRICITIES THE OUTSTANDING SET PIECES ARE !MMANNATIS COLOSSAL SHIVERING lGURE OF *ANUARY THE TRIPLE BOWLED FOUNTAIN TOPPED BY THE SAME SCULPTORS (ERCULES AND !NTAEUS AND THE 'ROTTO DEGLI
!NIMALI BY 'IAMBOLOGNA AND HIS SCHOOL n A MAN MADE CAVE AGAINST THE WALLS OF WHICH ARE STACKED A MENAGERIE OF PLASTER BIRDS AND ANIMALS THE BRONZE ORIGINALS OF SOME OF THESE ARE ON SHOW IN THE "ARGELLO IN &LORENCE
6ILLA -EDICEA DI #AREGGI !2/5.$ & , /2% .# %
\ 4HE -EDICI VILLAS
/RIGINALLY A FORTIlED FARMHOUSE THE 6ILLA DI #AREGGI KM NORTHWEST OF CEN TRAL &LORENCE CAME INTO THE POSSESSION OF THE -EDICI IN AND WAS ALTERED BY -ICHELOZZO FOR #OSIMO IL 6ECCHIO IN THE S )T WAS THE OLD MANS FAVOURITE HOME HE BROUGHT HIS PRIVATE LIBRARY OUT HERE AND HUNG THE WALLS WITH PAINT INGS BY HIS PROTÏGÏS #OSIMO DIED HERE TOO AS DID HIS SON 0IERO AND GRANDSON ,ORENZO IL -AGNIlCO WITH WHOM THE HOUSE IS PARTICULARLY ASSOCIATED AS IT WAS HERE THAT HIS ACADEMY OF 0LATONIC SCHOLARS USED TO MEET "US # RUNS FROM &LORENCE TRAIN STATION TO THE VILLA OR YOU CAN FOLLOW THE SIGNPOSTS AND WALK FROM 6ILLA ,A 0ETRAIA ,OW SLUNG AND BLANK FACED #AREGGI IS NOT A GRACIOUS BUILDING ITS ONE AMUS ING TOUCH BEING A FRESCO IN ONE OF THE GARDEN LOGGIAS IT DEPICTS A MAN BEING THROWN DOWN A WELL DEMONSTRATING THE FATE OF THE DOCTOR WHOSE INCOMPETENCE WAS APPARENTLY UNJUSTLY ALLEGED TO HAVE RESULTED IN THE DEATH OF ,ORENZO 4HE VILLA IS NOW A NURSES HOME AND THE INTERIOR CAN BE VIEWED ONLY BY APPOINT MENT VISITS -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnNOON ALTHOUGH THE EXTENSIVE SURROUNDING GARDENS AND WOODLAND CAN BE EXPLORED FREELY
0OGGIO A #AIANO AND AROUND &OR THE MOST COMPLETE PICTURE OF WHAT LIFE WAS LIKE IN THE -EDICI VILLAS IN THE FAMILYS HEYDAY YOU SHOULD MAKE THE TRIP TO THE 6ILLA -EDICI DI 0OGGIO A #AIANO SAME HOURS AS ,A 0ETRAIA + KM NORTHWEST OF &LORENCE ON THE CREST OF THE MAIN ROAD THROUGH THE VILLAGE OF 0/'')/ ! #!)!./ ! #/0)4 BUS HEADS TO THE VILLAGE FROM &LORENCE TRAIN STATION EVERY MIN TAKES MIN OR YOU COULD TAKE THE #!0 BUS - FROM 0RATO ,ORENZO IL -AGNIlCO BOUGHT A FARMHOUSE ON THIS SITE IN AND COMMIS SIONED 'IULIANO DA 3ANGALLO TO REBUILD IT AS A CLASSICAL RURAL PALACE n THE ONLY ARCHITECTURAL PROJECT INSTIGATED BY ,ORENZO THAT HAS SURVIVED AND THE lRST )TALIAN HOUSE TO BE BUILT SPECIlCALLY AS A PLACE OF COUNTRY LEISURE 2AISED ON A KIND OF ARCADED PODIUM IT IS THE MOST ELEGANT OF THE -EDICI VILLAS AND ITS IMPACT IS ENHANCED BY LATER ADDITIONS THE ENTRANCE LOGGIA FOR INSTANCE WAS COMMIS SIONED BY ,ORENZOS SON 'IOVANNI THE FUTURE 0OPE ,EO 8 AND THE CURVING DOUBLE STAIRWAY WAS ADDED IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY 4HE HOUSE WAS OFTEN USED TO ACCOMMODATE GUESTS OF STATE BEFORE THEY MADE CEREMONIAL ENTRANCE INTO &LORENCE #HARLES 6 STAYED HERE AND IT WAS AT 0OGGIO A #AIANO THAT %LEANOR OF 4OLEDO WAS INTRODUCED TO HER FUTURE HUSBAND #OSIMO ) 9OU ENTER THE VILLA THROUGH THE BASEMENT WHERE THE PLUSH GAMES ROOM AND PRIVATE THEATRE HINT AT THE SPLENDOUR TO COME 5PSTAIRS THE FOCAL POINT IS THE DOUBLE HEIGHT SALONE WHICH 3ANGALLO CREATED OUT OF THE COURTYARD BETWEEN THE TWO MAIN BLOCKS AND WHICH 6ASARI PRONOUNCED THE MOST BEAUTIFUL ROOM IN THE WORLD )TS SIXTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES INCLUDE DEL 3ARTOS #AESAR 2ECEIVING %GYPTIAN 4RIBUTE THE GIRAFFE SHOWN IN THE BACKGROUND WAS A GIFT TO ,ORENZO FROM THE 3ULTAN OF %GYPT &RANCIABIGIOS 4RIUMPH OF #ICERO A REFERENCE TO #OSIMO IL 6ECCHIOS RETURN FROM EXILE AND BEST OF THE LOT 0ONTORMOS GORGEOUS 6ERTUMNUS AND 0OMONA THE PERFECT EVOCATION OF A SUN STUNNED 4USCAN AFTERNOON !LSO ON THIS mOOR IS A RECONSTRUCTION OF THE SALON FROM THE 6ILLA 4OPAIA BUILT BY #OSIMO ))) AT #ASTELLO AND SINCE DESTROYED 4HIS WAS SET AMONG ORCHARDS AND THE LITERAL MINDED #OSIMO DULY ORDERED SCORES OF HORTICULTURAL PAINTINGS TO lLL THE HOUSE
3OME KM WEST OF 0OGGIO A #AIANO THE CHURCH OF 3AN -ICHELE IN THE VILLAGE OF #!2-)'.!./ CONTAINS ONE OF 0ONTORMOS GREATEST PAINTINGS THE 6ISITA TION #REATED IN ITS AS UNUSUAL AN INTERPRETATION OF A COMMON THEME AS HIS $EPOSITION IN &LORENCE CLAD IN BRIGHT PINK GREEN AND ORANGE THE WOMEN SEEM TO BE CLUTCHING EACH OTHER IN AN ALMOST STATIC DANCE 4HERES A FAIRLY REGULAR #!0 BUS SERVICE TO #ARMIGNANO FROM 0OGGIO TAKING nMIN DEPENDING ON WHETHER THEY GO VIA #OMEANA SEE BELOW 3HOULD YOU WANT TO STAY THE PLACE TO PICK IS THE TWO STAR HOTEL -ONTALBANO AT 6IA -ADONNA DELLA 6ALICARDA IN THE OUTLYING DISTRICT OF 0IANALI
\ 4HE -EDICI VILLAS
#ARMIGNANO
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THE $UTCH STILL LIFES ARE LIKE IDEAL FRUIT STALLS EACH VARIETY OF GRAPE PEACH AND APPLE ASSIDUOUSLY NUMBERED AND LABELLED /THER SUCH PAINTED IMAGES FROM ,A 4OPAIA ARE SCATTERED THROUGHOUT THE MAIN mOOR -ANY OF THE ROOMS WERE REDECORATED IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY BUT ONE THAT ESCAPED WAS THE APARTMENT OF "IANCA #APPELLO WIFE OF &RANCESCO ) AND INSPIRATION OF MANY A ROMANTIC TALE "ORN INTO AN UPPER CLASS 6ENETIAN FAM ILY SHE mED HER NATIVE CITY WITH A YOUNG MAN WHOM SHE QUICKLY DUMPED TO BECOME &RANCESCOS MISTRESS "ANNED FROM THE CITY BY &RANCESCOS lRST WIFE SHE REMAINED AN OUTCAST EVEN AFTER SHE HAD BECOME HIS SECOND BEING BLACKLISTED BY MANY OF &LORENCES ELITE )N /CTOBER BOTH SHE AND HER HUSBAND DIED HERE ON THE SAME DAY n PERHAPS POISONED PERHAPS VICTIMS OF A PARTICULARLY VIRULENT VIRUS )N ,ORENZOS TIME THE GROUNDS OF 0OGGIO A #AIANO WERE FAR MORE EXTENSIVE THAN THEY ARE TODAY AND INCLUDED A FARM AND A HUNTING ESTATE IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY THE GARDENS SAME HOURS WERE CONVERTED INTO AN %NGLISH STYLE LAND SCAPE NOW CONTAINING SOME MAGNIlCENT OLD TREES
6ILLA DEL!RTIMINO
3OME OF THE BUSES FROM 0OGGIO A #AIANO TO #ARMIGNANO TAKE A CIRCUITOUS ROUTE VIA #OMEANA KM SOUTH WHERE A COUPLE OF LARGE %TRUSCAN TOMBS DATING FROM THE SEVENTH CENTURY "# HAVE BEEN EXCAVATED 4HURSn3AT AMnPM FREE ! FEW OF THESE BUS SERVICES THEN LOOP THROUGH THE WALLED VILLAGE OF !24)-) ./ ANOTHER KM ON 6ILLA DEL!RTIMINO IS KNOWN AS ,A &ERDINANDA AFTER 'RAND $UKE &ERDI NANDO ) FOR WHOM "UONTALENTI DESIGNED THE HOUSE AS A HUNTING LODGE WITH NO INTERVENING GARDEN TO SMOOTH THE TRANSITION FROM CIVILIZATION TO NATURE 5NLIKE MOST OF THE OTHER -EDICI VILLAS ITS STILL IN THE COUNTRYSIDE WITH SUPERB VIEWS TOWARDS &LORENCE IN ONE DIRECTION AND WEST ALONG THE !RNO IN THE OTHER ! WHITE RECTANGULAR BLOCK WITH DETAILS PICKED OUT IN GREY PIETRA SERENA THE HOUSE HAS THE APPEARANCE OF A RATHER DANDIlED FORTRESS AND ITS MOST DISTINCTIVE EXTERNAL FEATURE HAS EARNED IT THE NICKNAME hTHE VILLA OF THE HUNDRED CHIMNEYSv (ALF OF THE INTERIOR IS OPEN BY APPOINTMENT ONLY 4UES AMnPM FREE BUT THE PAINTINGS OF THE VARIOUS -EDICI VILLAS THAT ONCE HUNG HERE ARE NOW ON SHOW IN &LORENCES -USEO DI &IRENZE COMERA )N THE BASEMENT IS A DREARY MUSEUM OF %TRUSCAN lNDS FROM THE #OMEANA TOMBS &EBn/CT -ON 4UES 4HURSn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnNOON + 7HILE YOURE HERE TAKE A LOOK AT THE VILLAGE CHURCH OF 3AN ,EONARDO WHICH WAS PUT TOGETHER IN THE TWELFTH CENTURY FROM STONES RECOVERED FROM AN %TRUSCAN NECROPOLIS (ANG AROUND UNTIL THE EVENING AND YOU COULD SAMPLE THE MENU AT THE EXCELLENT AND WELL PRICED VILLAGE RESTAURANT $A $ELlNA CLOSED 3UN EVE -ON ALSO !UG ST TWO WEEKS OF *AN
0RATOLINO AND -ONTE 3ENARIO
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\ #HIANTI
.OTHING REMAINS OF &RANCESCO )S FAVOURITE VILLA AT 0RATOLINO KM NORTH OF &LORENCE BUS EXCEPT FOR ITS HUGE PARK !PRILn3EPT 4HURSn3UN AMn PM -ARCH /CT 3UN AMnPM + FREE ON 4HURS &RI AND IN -ARCH /CT n AND EVEN THIS IS BUT A SHADOW OF ITS FORMER SELF 4HE MECHANICAL TOYS TRICK FOUNTAINS AND OTHER PRACTICAL JOKES THAT "UONTALENTI INSTALLED HERE WERE THE MOST INGENIOUS EVER SEEN AND REQUIRED SO MUCH MAINTENANCE THAT THERE WAS A HOUSE IN THE GROUNDS JUST FOR THE COURT PLUMBERS 4HE ONLY SURVIVING PIECES ARE A COUPLE OF FOUNTAINS A LITTLE TEMPLE BY "UONTALENTI AND 'IAMBOLOGNAS IMMENSE !PPENNINO A SHAGGY MAN MOUNTAIN WHO GUSHES WATER .ONETHELESS THE PARK n KNOWN AS THE 0ARCO $EMIDOFF AFTER THE NINETEENTH CENTURY OWNERS OF THE ESTATE n IS STILL ONE OF THE MOST PLEASANT GREEN SPACES WITHIN EASY REACH OF &LORENCE )F YOURE TRAVELLING UNDER YOUR OWN STEAM YOU COULD TAKE AN EIGHT KILOMETRE DIVERSION NORTHEAST OFF THE MAIN ROAD INTO THE -UGELLO TO -ONTE 3ENARIO A MONASTERY ESTABLISHED BY THE SEVEN FOUNDER MEMBERS OF THE 3ERVITE ORDER IN 4HE COMPLEX IS IMPRESSIVE WITH GILDED 2OCOCO BASILICA AND HERMITAGES SCATTERED UP THE HILL BUT THE ARCHITECTURE IS LESS REWARDING THAN THE VIEWS OF -UGELLO FROM THE TERRACE
0OGGIO )MPERIALE 3OUTH OF CENTRAL &LORENCE 6IALE DEL 0OGGIO )MPERIALE RISES FROM THE 0ORTA 2OMANA TO THE 6ILLA DI 0OGGIO )MPERIALE BUS FROM THE $UOMO BUILT BY THE 3ALVIATI FAMILY BUT CONlSCATED BY #OSIMO ) 4HE -EDICI DID LITTLE TO IMPROVE THE PLACE WHEN THEY ENLARGED IT NOR DID THE POST -EDICI RULERS OF THE CITY WHO GLUED A .EOCLASSICAL FACADE ONTO THE HOUSE 4HE GOVERMENT DEPARTMENT THAT NOW OCCUPIES MOST OF THE VILLA ALLOWS PREARRANGED VISITS 7ED AMnNOON CLOSED !UG FREE BUT ITS A TOUR FOR THE COMMITTED -EDICEAN ONLY
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!SK A SAMPLE OF NORTHERN %UROPEANS TO DElNE THEIR IDEA OF PARADISE AND THE ODDS ARE THAT SEVERAL WILL COME UP WITH SOMETHING THAT SOUNDS MUCH LIKE #HI ANTI THE TERRITORY OF VINEYARDS AND HILL TOWNS THAT STRETCHES BETWEEN &LORENCE AND 3IENA WHO CONTESTED OWNERSHIP OF MUCH OF THIS REGION UNTIL 3IENAS lNAL CAPITULATION IN %VERY ASPECT OF LIFE IN #HIANTI SEEMS IN PERFECT BALANCE THE LANDSCAPE IS THE SORT OF HARMONIOUSLY VARIED TERRAIN BELOVED OF PAINTERS EVOKING ANY MYTHICAL 'OLDEN !GE THE CLIMATE FOR MOST OF THE YEAR IS BALMY RARELY TOO GRIM EVEN IN THE PIT OF WINTER AND ON TOP OF ALL THIS THERES THE WINE THE ONE )TALIAN VINTAGE THATS FAMILIAR TO JUST ABOUT EVERYONE 4HE "RITISH AND OTHERS FROM SIMILARLY ILL FAVOURED ZONES WERE LONG AGO ALERTED TO #HIANTIS CHARMS AND THE RATE OF IMMIGRATION HAS BEEN SO RAPID SINCE THE S THAT THE REGION IS NOW POPULARLY KNOWN AS h#HIANTISHIREv OR EVEN h3URREY IN THE 3UNv HAPPILY HOWEVER FOREIGN RESIDENTS STILL ACCOUNT FOR ONLY lVE PERCENT OF #HIANTIS INHABITANTS 7ITH UP TO A MILLION VISITORS A YEAR TOURISM HAS OVERTAKEN WINE TO BECOME THE REGIONS MOST IMPORTANT CASH CROP AND HAS HELPED PUSH PROPERTY PRICES BEYOND THE REACH OF THE LOCAL POPULATION n THUS ALTERING THE TONE OF CERTAIN PARTS IRREPARABLY 4OURIST HANDOUTS MIGHT TALK OF THE CHARM OF #HIANTIS MEDIEVAL HAMLETS BUT MANY OF THEM ARE PLACES WHERE HISTORY HAS BECOME JUST ANOTHER COMMODITY AND WHERE THE ABIDING IMPRES
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SIONS ARE OF NEWLY VARNISHED SHUTTERS AND LOCKS THE SIZE OF LETTER BOXES 4HERE IS NONETHELESS MUCH TO ENJOY IN #HIANTI n QUIET BACK ROADS HUNDREDS OF ACRES OF WOODLAND AND OF COURSE THE VINEYARDS "USES FROM &LORENCE AND 3IENA CONNECT WITH THE MAIN #HIANTI TOWNS BUT THE BEST WAY TO REALLY GET TO KNOW THE REGION IS BY CAR 9OUR OWN TRANSPORT ALLOWS YOU TO ROAM THE QUIETER RECESSES OF THE HILLS AND VISIT ANY OF THE EIGHT HUNDRED WINE PRODUCERS TO SAMPLE THE LOCAL PRODUCT EVERY VILLAGE MENTIONED BELOW HAS WINE TASTINGS ON OFFER WITHIN A FEW HUNDRED METRES OF THE MAIN STREET 4HERES BASICALLY A CHOICE OF TWO MAIN ROADS TO FOLLOW THROUGH #HIANTI THE OLD &LOR ENCE TO 3IENA ROAD . ALONG THE WESTERN EDGE OF THE REGION OR THE SO CALLED #HIANTIGIANA ROAD 33 THROUGH THE #HIANTI HEARTLAND
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)F YOU GET HOLD OF A DETAILED SURVEY MAP OF THE REGION YOU CAN ALSO PICK OUT SOME OF THE INNUMERABLE MINIATURE LAKES WHICH OFFER THE QUIETEST SWIM MING YOULL lND ANYWHERE IN 4USCANY IN THE SUMMER (OTELS IN #HIANTI ARE RARELY INEXPENSIVE THE ONLY TRULY LOW BUDGET OPTIONS ARE TWO HOSTELS AND A FEW CAMPSITES BUT THIS IS PRIME AGRITURISMO TERRITORY WITH SCORES OF FARMS OFFERING ROOMS OR APARTMENTS OR EVEN SELF CONTAINED MINI VILLAS GENERALLY FOR A MINIMUM PERIOD OF ONE WEEK WHICH FOR AN EXTENDED STAY CAN PROVIDE A GOOD VALUE ALTERNATIVE TO HOTEL ACCOMMODATION 4HERE ARE ALREADY FAR TOO MANY AGRITURISMI IN #HIANTI TO LIST HERE AND WITH EVERY PASSING MONTH A NEW OPERATION STARTS UP BUT YOU CAN lND A GOOD CHOICE OF PROPERTIES AT WWWAGRITURISMO NET WWWAGRITURISMOIT#HIANTI&IORENTINOHTM AND WWWCHIANTISHIRE ORGAGRITURISMIHTM 4HE #HIANTISHIRE WEBSITE DESPITE ITS DREADFUL NAME IS A GOOD SOURCE OF TOPICAL INFORMATION ON THE AREA
\ #HIANTI
7ESTERN #HIANTI ! STRETCH OF SUPERSTRADA CONNECTS &LORENCE TO 3IENA ALONG THE WESTERN EDGE OF #HIANTI BUT TO GET SOME SENSE OF THE CHARACTER OF THE LAND ITS BETTER TO OPT FOR THE OLDER . ROAD WHICH TAKES IN A FEW OF THE MAJOR #HIANTI TOWNS EN ROUTE !PART FROM BEING A FAR MORE DIVERTING DRIVE ITS ACTUALLY NOT THAT MUCH SLOWER EVEN WITH A FEW STOPS ON THE WAY TO EXPLORE THE #ERTOSA DI 'ALLUZZO OR VISIT A WINE HOUSE YOU COULD REACH 3AN 'IMIGNANO OR 3IENA COMFORTABLY IN A HALF DAY DRIVE FROM &LORENCE 4HE #ERTOSA DI 'ALLUZZO
/N THE CITY SIDE OF THE !UTOSTRADA DEL 3OLE BEYOND 0OGGIO )MPERIALE THE . SWEEPS BY THE #ARTHUSIAN MONASTERY OF THE #ERTOSA DI 'ALLUZZO 4UESn3AT AMnNOON nPM 3UN nPM WINTER CLOSES PM FREE FOUNDED IN THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY BY THE &LORENTINE BANKER .ICCOLÛ !CCIAIOLI "US RUNS HERE FROM &LORENCE TRAIN STATION SO IT CAN EASILY BE INCLUDED AS AN EXCURSION FROM THE CITY 4HE #ERTOSA OR CHARTERHOUSE IS NOW OCCUPIED BY #ISTERCIAN MONKS ONE OF WHOSE NUMBER SHOWS VISITORS ROUND THE ENORMOUS COMPLEX )TS MAIN ARCHITEC TURAL ATTRACTION IS THE #HIOSTRO 'RANDE WITH ITS TONDI OF PROPHETS AND SAINTS BY !NDREA AND 'IOVANNI DELLA 2OBBIA AND THEIR WORKSHOP /NE OF THE EIGHTEEN MONKS CELLS ADJOINING THIS CLOISTER IS OPEN n A TYPICAL #ARTHUSIAN ARRANGEMENT WITH THREE ROOMS AND ITS OWN PATCH OF GARDEN "EYOND THE TOUR REACHES THE 0ALAZZO DEGLI 3TUDI NOW A PICTURE GALLERY THOUGH BUILT AS A STUDY CENTRE BY THE WELL EDUCATED !CCIAIOLI WHO COUNTED "OCCACCIO AND 0ETRARCH AMONG HIS FRIENDS 4HE #ERTOSA WAS ONCE SO RICH THAT IT OWNED OVER lVE HUNDRED WORKS OF ART MOST OF WHICH WERE CARRIED OFF BY .APOLEON THE BEST OF THOSE THAT REMAIN ARE THE lVE SCENES OF THE 0ASSION PAINTED FOR THE #HIOSTRO 'RANDE BY 0ONTORMO IN WHILE HE AND HIS PUPIL "RONZINO WERE TAKING REFUGE FROM A PLAGUE OUTBREAK IN THE CITY )N THE CHURCH ITSELF DOWN IN THE CRYPT OF THE LAY BROTHERS CHOIR ARE THE TOMBS OF THE MONASTERYS FOUNDER AND HIS DESCENDANTS INCLUDING A BEAUTIFUL SLAB ORIGINALLY THOUGHT TO HAVE BEEN BY $ONATELLO NOW ATTRIBUTED TO &RANCESCO DA 3ANGALLO 3ANT!NDREA AND 3AN #ASCIANO 6AL DI 0ESA
3OUTH OF THE #ERTOSA THE . PASSES TO THE EAST OF 3ANT!NDREA IN 0ERCUSSINA WHERE -ACHIAVELLI ALLEVIATED THE BOREDOM OF EXILE BY WRITING 4HE 0RINCE THE MANUAL OF STATECRAFT THAT HE HOPED IN VAIN WOULD SEAL HIS REHABILITATION ! HOUSE HAS BEEN IDENTIlED AS HIS RESIDENCE BUT IT IS NOT OPEN TO VISITORS
#HIANTI WINES
\ #HIANTI
#HIANTI BECAME THE WORLDS lRST OFlCIALLY DElNED WINE PRODUCING AREA IN THE YEAR #OSIMO ))) DREW THE BOUNDARIES WITHIN WHICH VINEYARDS COULD USE THE REGIONS NAME ON THEIR PRODUCT -ODERN #HIANTI DATES FROM THE S WHEN "ETTINO 2ICASOLI THE SECOND PRIME MINISTER OF UNIlED )TALY ESTABLISHED THE CLASSIC FORMULA FOR THE WINE AT HIS ESTATE AT "ROLIO BASED ON 3ANGIOVESE n CENTRAL )TALYS PREDOMINANT RED GRAPE 7HITE GRAPES USED TO BE AN IMPORTANT PART OF THE MIX AS WERE RED GRAPES IMPORTED FROM SOUTHERN )TALY 4HIS COMBINED WITH THE HUGE AREA OF PRODUCTION THAT EXTENDS WELL BEYOND THE GEOGRAPHICAL AREA KNOWN AS #HIANTI MEANT THAT THE QUALITY AND STYLE OF THE WINE VARIED DRAMATICALLY n AT ITS WORST SYMBOLIZED BY THE STRAW COVERED BOTTLE KNOWN AS A lASCO &OLLOWING A CRISIS OF CONlDENCE MANY OF THE BETTER PRODUCERS PUT THEIR EFFORTS INTO MAKING SMART EXPENSIVE WINES SOLD AS SIMPLE VINI DA TAVOLA 4HE SITUATION IMPROVED WITH #HIANTI BECOMING A $/#' IN AND TOTAL OUTPUT IS NOW ABOUT MILLION LITRES PER ANNUM MAKING IT )TALYS HIGHEST VOLUME $/#' BY FAR 4HE WINE GROWING AREA IS SPLIT INTO SEVEN CLASSIlED REGIONS OF WHICH THE MOST HIGHLY REGARDED ARE #HIANTI #LASSICO AND #HIANTI 2ÞlNA 4HE BETTER #HIANTIS MATURE IN AROUND FOUR TO SEVEN YEARS AND THE BEST RECENT VINTAGES TO LOOK OUT FOR ARE AND BUT ONE TO AVOID IS n THE WORST #HIANTI SUM MER IN LIVING MEMORY WITH TORRENTIAL RAIN THAT ROTTED THE VINES ALL OVER THE REGION ! RISERVA IS A CRU VERSION AGED FOR A MINIMUM OF TWO AND A HALF YEARS BEFORE BOTTLING
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3!. #!3#)!./ 6!, $) 0%3! KM SOUTH OF &LORENCE IS THE lRST REAL TOWN ON THE . ROAD )N FACT WITH A POPULATION OF AROUND IT IS THE ONLY PLACE IN #HIANTI THAT IS REALLY MORE THAN AN EXTENDED VILLAGE )T IS ALSO HOME TO ONE OF THE SLICKEST COMMERCIAL OPERATIONS IN 4USCANY THE SIX HUNDRED YEAR OLD !NTINORI WINE HOUSE AS WELL AS ONE OF #HIANTIS MOST INTERESTING CHURCHES 3ANTA -ARIA DEL 0RATO WHICH STANDS BY THE ONE SURVIVING GATEWAY IN THE TOWN WALLS 4HE CHURCH WAS BUILT IN THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY AND CONTAINS SOME BEAUTIFUL WORKS OF ART FROM THE SAME PERIOD A #RUCIlX BY AN ANONYMOUS FOL LOWER OF 'IOTTO AN ALTARPIECE OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD AND A PULPIT BY A PUPIL OF !NDREA 0ISANO
4HE #HIANTI DISTRICTS
s #HIANTI #LASSICO n THE ORIGINAL DELINEATED DISTRICT SEE MAP ON P ACCOUNTING FOR A THIRD OF THE #HIANTI PRODUCED )N #HIANTI #LASSICO WAS INSTITUTIONALIZED TAKING AS ITS TRADEMARK THE BLACK COCK 'ALLO .ERO THAT WAS ONCE THE HERALDIC SYMBOL OF THE BARONIAL ALLIANCE CALLED THE ,EGA DI #HIANTI s #HIANTI #OLLI !RETINI n FROM THE HILLS ON THE EAST SIDE OF THE !RNO VALLEY TO THE NORTH OF !REZZO 4ENDS TO BE LIGHTER THAN #LASSICO AND BEST DRUNK YOUNG s #HIANTI #OLLI &IORENTINI n FROM THE AREA IMMEDIATELY SOUTH AND EAST OF &LORENCE AND ALONG THE !RNO AND 0ESA VALLEYS 'OOD QUAFlNG WINE AND STAPLE 2OSSO OF MANY A RESTAURANT IN &LORENCE s #HIANTI #OLLI 3ENESI n THE LARGEST #HIANTI ZONE SPLIT INTO THREE DISTINCT DISTRICTS AROUND -ONTALCINO AROUND -ONTEPULCIANO AND SOUTH OF THE #LASSICO REGION EAST OF 3AN 'IMIGNANO 6ARIABLE QUALITY WITH THE NAME OF THE PRODUCER ALL IMPORTANT s #HIANTI #OLLINE 0ISANE n THE LIGHTEST #HIANTI COMES FROM THIS REGION SOUTHEAST OF 0ISA AROUND #ASCIANA 4ERME s #HIANTI -ONTALBANO n FROM THE HILLS WEST OF &LORENCE AND SOUTH OF 0ISTOIA THE WINES USUALLY SOFT AND SCENTED s #HIANTI 2ÞlNA n FROM THE LOWER 3IEVE VALLEY NORTHEAST OF &LORENCE PRODUCING SOME OF THE MOST RElNED AND LONGEST LIVING #HIANTIS .OT TO BE CONFUSED WITH THE BIG #HIANTI PRODUCER 2UFlNO
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&OR ACCOMMODATION 3AN #ASCIANO TOWN OFFERS THE WELL APPOINTED THREE STAR !NTICA 0OSTA 0IAZZA :ANNONI A MEAL IN THE ATTACHED RESTAURANT CLOSED 4UES SHOULD COST AROUND + n BOOKING IS ESSENTIAL 9OU CAN ALSO GET A lNE MEAL AT $A .ELLO 6IA )6 .OVEMBRE A FAMILY RUN ESTAB LISHMENT THATS BEEN IN OPERATION FOR MORE THAN HALF A CENTURY NOW CLOSED 7ED EVENING 4HURS 4HE BEST PLACE TO STAY IN THE VICINITY HOWEVER IS THE SPECTACULAR 6ILLA )L 0OGGIALE SET AMID A CYPRESS GROVE ABOUT KM WEST OF 3AN #ASCIANO AT 6IA %MPOLESE WWWVILLAILPOGGIALEIT CLOSED &EB REBUILT IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY AND DISCREETLY DECORATED IN THE STYLE OF THE EARLY NINETEENTH CENTURY THE VILLA IS A BEAUTIFUL AND SPACIOUS BUILDING AND HAS A RESTAURANT AND OUTDOOR POOL -ERCATALE AND AROUND
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4HE ROAD EAST FROM 3AN #ASCIANO PASSES THE #HIANTI PRODUCING 6ILLA ,E #ORTI n ONE OF MANY &LORENTINE GENTRY RESIDENCES IN THIS PART OF THE REGION n BEFORE REACHING THE ONCE MAJOR MARKET TOWN OF -%2#!4!,% KM FROM 3AN #ASCIANO -ERCATALE HAS THE TINY ONE STAR 0ARADISE HOTEL RIGHT IN THE CEN TRE AT 0IAZZA 6ITTORIO 6ENETO HOTELPARAD FTBCCIT 4HERES ALSO AN OUTSTANDING RESTAURANT )L 3ALOTTO DEL #HIANTI AT 6IA 3ONNINO CLOSED 7ED WHERE YOULL SPEND AROUND + PER PERSON ! COUPLE OF KILOMETRES FARTHER EAST ON THE ROAD TOWARDS 'REVE SEE OPPOSITE STANDS THE ELEVENTH CENTURY #ASTELLO DI 'ABBIANO BUILT BY THE "ARDI THE WEALTHIEST &LORENTINE BANKING DYNASTY BEFORE THE COMING OF THE -EDICI !S WITH ,E #ORTI IT PRODUCES WINE n AND OLIVE OIL ANOTHER GREAT #HIANTI SPECIALITY "ARGINO AND SOUTHWARDS
"ACK ON THE . SOUTH OF 3AN #ASCIANO YOU PASS THE CASTLE OF "IBBIONE n HOME OF THE "UONDELMONTE FAMILY WHO TRIGGERED THE 'UELPH VERSUS 'HIBELLINE BATTLES n BEFORE COMING INTO "!2')./ WHICH HAS LOW COST ROOMS AT THE ONE STAR "ARGINO 6IA #ASSIA &ROM HERE ITS A SHORT DIVERSION EAST TO THE FORTIlED VILLAGE OF -ONTElRIDOLl WHOSE CASTLE ONCE BELONGED TO THE SONS OF 2IDOLFO "UONDELMONTE lGLI DI 2IDOLFO 3OUTH OF "ARGINO THE . ROLLS INTO 4!6!2.%,,% 6!, $) 0%3! WHICH EXPANDED AS AN AGRICULTURAL CENTRE IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY 4HERES A REASON ABLE RESTAURANT HERE ,A &ATTORIA AT 6IA DEL #ERRO CLOSED -ON LUNCH ALL 4UES AND M FROM THE BUS STOP ONE OF TWO HOSTELS IN #HIANTI THE () /STELLO DEL #HIANTI 6IA 2OMA WWWOSTELLIONLINEORG -ARCH n/CT WHICH HAS BEDS FROM AROUND + PER NIGHT !BOUT KM BEYOND LIES THE MORE ANCIENT "!2"%2)./ 6!, $%,3! SITE OF ONE OF THE RARE CAMPSITES IN #HIANTI 3EMIFONTE 6IA 5GO &OSCOLO WWWSEMIFONTEIT 4HE BEAUTIFUL 2OMANESQUE 0IEVE DI 3ANT!PPIANO PARTS OF WHICH DATE BACK TO THE TENTH CENTURY IS A FEW KILO METRES SOUTHWEST OF THE VILLAGE WELL SIGNPOSTED DUE SOUTH ON THE MAIN ROAD IS THE MAJOR TOWN OF 0OGGIBONSI SEE P HUB FOR BUSES TO 3AN 'IMIGNANO AND 3IENA
4HE #HIANTI HEARTLAND
4HERES NO BETTER WAY TO EXPERIENCE THE VILLAGE LIFE OF #HIANTI THAN TO DRIVE ALONG THE #HIANTIGIANA ROAD 33 WHICH CUTS RIGHT ACROSS THE HILLS FROM &LORENCE TO 3IENA CONNECTING WITH A TANGLE OF MINOR ROADS THAT TRAVERSE THE MOST UNSPOILT PARTS OF THE REGION )F YOU PUT YOUR FOOT DOWN ITS TWISTS AND TURNS CAN BE NEGOTIATED IN ONLY A LITTLE LONGER THAN THE MAJOR . ROAD TO THE WEST BUT THIS IS MORE OF A ROUTE TO DAWDLE ALONG TAKING TURNINGS ON A WHIM AND DROPPING
BY AT ANY VINEYARD THAT TAKES YOUR FANCY )F YOU WANT TO SEE THE BEST OF #HIANTI IN A SINGLE DAY DEVISE AN ITINERARY THAT TAKES IN 'REVE AND 2ADDA TWO OF THE REGIONS MOST ALLURING LITTLE TOWNS 3ANTA #ATERINA D!NTELLA AND )MPRUNETA !2/5.$ & , /2% .# %
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!S YOU LEAVE &LORENCE ON THE 33 THE ACCESS ROAD FOR THE #HIANTIGIANA A SHORT DETOUR JUST BEFORE THE AUTOSTRADA BRINGS YOU TO THE VILLAGE OF 0/.4% ! %-! AND KM BEYOND THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA #ATERINA D!NTELLA 4HIS HAS A lNE CYCLE OF SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF 3T #ATHERINE OF 3IENA PAINTED BY 3PINELLO !RETINO IN %XECUTED IMMEDIATELY PRIOR TO HIS WORK AT 3AN -INIATO AL -ONTE SEE P THEY MAKE AN INTERESTING COMPARISON WITH !GNOLO 'ADDIS LESS MONUMENTAL FRESCO CYCLE IN &LORENCES CHURCH OF 3ANTA #ROCE PAINTED AT THE SAME TIME !NOTHER REWARDING DETOUR THIS TIME JUST SOUTH OF THE AUTOSTRADA PRESENTS ITSELF AT 'RÉSSINA 4AKE A RIGHT TURN HERE AND AFTER KM OF WINDING ROAD YOU ARRIVE AT )-025.%4! 4HE #OLLEGIATA HERE RESTORED AFTER HEAVY BOMB DAMAGE IN WAS FOUNDED IN THE ELEVENTH CENTURY TO HOUSE A MIRACULOUS ICON OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD DUG UP IN A NEARBY lELD AND SAID TO HAVE BEEN PAINTED n AS THESE THINGS OFTEN ARE n BY 3T ,UKE )TS HOUSED IN ONE OF A PAIR OF MATCHING CHAPELS BY -ICHELOZZO THE SECOND OF WHICH CONTAINS A FRAGMENT OF THE 4RUE #ROSS BOTH HAVE LOVELY ENAMELLED TERRACOTTA DECORATION BY ,UCA DELLA 2OBBIA )MPRUNETA HAS LONG BEEN A CENTRE OF THE TERRACOTTA INDUSTRY AND HOLDS A BIG FAIR IN /CTOBER ON THE MAIN SQUARE )N NEARBY "OTTAI AT 6IA 3AN #RISTOFANO THERES THE #AMPING )NTERNAZIONALE &IRENZE CAMPSITE WWW mORENCECAMPINGCOM OPEN ALL YEAR AND YOULL lND A GOOD TWO STAR HOTEL THE 3COPETI AT 6IA #ASSIA 'RÉSSINA TO 3TRADA
'O EAST RATHER THAN WEST AT 'RÉSSINA AND YOULL COME TO 3ANTO 3TEFANO A 4IZ ZANO WITH ITS 2OMANESQUE CHURCH AND CONTEMPORANEOUS #ASTELLO DI 4IZZANO A PRODUCER OF GOOD WINES BUT BEST KNOWN FOR ITS EXTRA VERGINE OLIVE OIL !BOUT KM FURTHER IS 3AN 0OLO IN #HIANTI WHERE A MAJOR IRIS FESTIVAL THE &ESTA DEL 'IAGGIOLO HELD IN MID -AY CELEBRATES THE VILLAGE CROP OF &LORENCES mORAL EMBLEM ! GOOD PLACE FOR A COFFEE IS THE !NTICA 4OSCANA &ROM 3AN 0OLO A MINOR ROAD RECONNECTS WITH THE #HIANTIGIANA NEAR 342!$! ). #()!.4) 4HE TURNOFF SOUTHEAST FROM 3TRADA TO $UDDA IS OVERLOOKED BY THE MIGHTY #ASTELLO DI -UGNANA WHICH ONCE PROTECTED THIS STRETCH OF ROAD DOWN INTO THE !RNO VALLEY AND IS NOW THE HEADQUARTERS OF A MASSIVE WINE ESTATE 'REVE AND AROUND
&OR CASUAL OENOPHILES PERHAPS THE BEST TARGET IS '2%6% KM SOUTH ON THE #HIANTIGIANA FROM 3TRADA 4HE VENUE FOR #HIANTIS BIGGEST WINE FAIR THE 2ASSEGNA DEL #HIANTI #LASSICO USUALLY HELD DURING THE SECOND WEEKEND IN 3EPT THIS IS A TOWN WITH WINE FOR SALE ON EVERY STREET THE BEST OUTLETS ARE THE %NOTECA DI 'ALLO .ERO 0IAZZETTA 3ANTA #ROCE THE #ANTINETTA DI #HECUCCI 6IA 6ITTORIO 6ENETO AND THE #ANTINA DI 'REVE IN #HIANTI AT 0IAZZA DELLE #ANTINE WHICH CLAIMS TO HAVE THE BIGGEST SELECTION OF #HIANTI #LASSICO WINES IN THE WHOLE REGION 4HOUGH RAZED TO THE GROUND IN BY #ASTRUCCIO #ASTRACANI THE RULER OF ,UCCA BY THE lFTEENTH CENTURY 'REVE HAD RE ESTABLISHED ITSELF AS A THRIVING MERCANTILE TOWN FOCUSED ON THE FUNNEL SHAPED 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI WHERE A 3ATURDAY MORNING MARKET IS STILL HELD TODAY )TS IRREGULAR ARCADES ARE EXPLAINED BY THE FACT THAT VARIOUS MERCHANTS PAID FOR THEIR OWN STRETCHES OF COLONNADE 4HE
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STATUE IN THE CENTRE IS OF 'IOVANNI DA 6ERRAZZANO THE MAN WHO hDISCOVEREDv .EW 9ORK HARBOUR HE WAS BORN IN THE NEARBY #ASTELLO DI 6ERRAZZANO /THER THAN THE PIAZZA THE 'REVE TOWNSCAPE HAS JUST ONE FEATURE THAT MIGHT BE CLASSI lED AS A SIGHT THE -USEO D!RTE 3ACRA DI 3AN &RANCESCO AT 6IA 3AN &RAN CESCO !PRILn3EPT 4HURS &RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN nPM /CTn-ARCH 4HURS &RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN nPM + A VERY MINOR MUSEUM WHERE THE CHIEF EXHIBIT IS A PAINTED TERRACOTTA ,AMENTATION CREATED IN THE S AND THUS ONE OF THE LAST EXAMPLES OF A GENRE THAT ORIGINATED WITH ,UCA DELLA 2OBBIA MORE THAN A CENTURY EARLIER !S THE CHIEF TOWN OF THE 'ALLO .ERO REGION 'REVE IS EQUIPPED WITH AN EFl CIENT TOURIST OFlCE IN THE BUILDING AT THE END OF THE CAR PARK THAT IS 0IAZZALE &ERRANTE -ORI -ONn&RI AMnPM nPM WWW COMUNEGREVE IN CHIANTIlIT WHICH CAN ALSO GIVE INFORMATION ON ACCOM MODATION IN LOCAL FARMHOUSES AND TREKKING IN #HIANTI 4HERE ARE A NUMBER OF INTERESTING VILLAS A STONES THROW FROM 'REVE INCLUDING 6ERRAZZANO lVE MINUTES DRIVE NORTH AND 6IGNAMAGGIO JUST SOUTH OF 'REVE WHERE +ENNETH "RANAGH lLMED -UCH !DO ABOUT .OTHING ! COUPLE OF THREE STAR HOTELS ON 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI OFFER COMFORTABLE ACCOM MODATION THE $EL #HIANTI AT NO WWWALBERGODELCHIANTI IT AND $A 6ERRAZZANO AT NO WWWVERRAZZANO IT 4HE LATTER IS SLIGHTLY MORE CHARACTERFUL AND ALSO HAS AN EXTREMELY GOOD RESTAURANT AT AROUND + FOR A FULL MEAL CLOSED -ON MID *AN TO MID &EB WITH A TERRACE OVERLOOKING THE PIAZZA 4HE 'ALLO .ERO JUST OFF THE PIAZZA AT 6IA #ESARE "ATISTI CLOSED 4HURS IS A PERFECTLY ACCEPTABLE BAR TRATTORIA PIZZERIA AS IS 4ORRE DELLE #IVETTE 6IA ,UCA #INI OPEN DAILY FOR LUNCH DINNER IN SUMMER IN WINTER OPEN FOR LUNCH -ON &RI FOR DINNER 4HURS 3UN &OR TRAVELLERS ON A TIGHT REIN THERES THE 6ILLA 3AN -ICHELE AT 6IA #ASOLE WWWVILLASANMICHELEIT IN ,5#/,%.! KM EAST OF 'REVE THERES NO PUBLIC TRANSPORT IN ADDITION TO A SMALL DORMITORY BEDS + PER NIGHT IT HAS HOTEL STYLE DOUBLE ROOMS + AND THREE APARTMENTS FOR TWO PEOPLE + PER NIGHT PLUS A RESTAURANT AND BAR -ONTElORALLE AND THE "ADIA A 0ASSIGNANO
&IVE MINUTES DRIVE FROM 'REVE WEST UP A STEEP ZIGZAGGING ROAD LIES THE MUCH RESTORED HAMLET OF -/.4%&)/2!,,% WHERE A SINGLE ELLIPTICAL STREET n 6IA DI -ONTElORALLE n ENCOMPASSES A FEW TOWER HOUSES AND A PAIR OF 2OMAN ESQUE CHURCHES 4HIS STREET HAS ONE OF THE BEST SIMPLE TRATTORIE IN #HIANTI THE 4AVERNA DEL 'UERRINO WINTER OPEN 4HURSn3UN FOR LUNCH DINNER SUMMER OPEN DAILY FOR DINNER 4HURSn3UN FOR LUNCH ! MENU OF LOCALLY PRODUCED SAUSAGES BEANS AND VEGETABLES PROVIDES A GOOD 4USCAN MEAL FOR AROUND + #ONTINUING WEST FROM -ONTElORALLE THE ROAD PASSES THE VESTIGES OF THE CAS TLE OF -ONTElLI WHOSE OWNERS WERE BENEFACTORS OF THE "ADÖA A 0ASSIGNANO WWWBADIA A PASSIGNANOCOM SITUATED A FEW KILOMETRES ON TOWARDS THE . ! MONASTERY WAS FOUNDED HERE TOWARDS THE END OF THE NINTH CENTURY THEN IN WAS RE DEDICATED TO THE 6ALLOMBROSAN ORDER WHOSE FOUNDER 3T 'IOVANNI 'UALBERTO DIED HERE IN AND IS BURIED IN THE ABBEY CHURCH OF 3AN -ICHELE )T BECAME ONE OF THE WEALTHIEST RELIGIOUS HOUSES IN 4USCANY BUT IS NOW OCCUPIED BY JUST A HANDFUL OF 6ALLOMBROSAN MONKS WHO ON 3UNDAY AFTERNOONS USUALLY AT PM ALLOW VISITORS TO EXPLORE THE SITE ! PAINTING BY !LESSANDRO !LLORI AND A BUST OF 'IOVANNI 'UALBERTO ARE ON DISPLAY BUT THE HIGHLIGHT IS THE REFECTORY FRESCO OF THE ,AST 3UPPER PAINTED IN BY $AVIDE AND $OMENICO 'HIRLANDAIO
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\ #HIANTI 5 6INEYARDS NEAR 0ANZANO
0ANZANO AND #ASTELLINA
!BOUT KM SOUTH OF 'REVE ALONG THE #HIANTIGIANA THE HILL TOP TOWN OF 0!. :!./ OVERLOOKS A CIRCLE OF HILLS KNOWN AS THE #ONCA D/RO 'OLDEN 6ALLEY BECAUSE OF THEIR SUN TRAP PROPERTIES THE RESULTANT WINES CAN BE SAMPLED AT THE %NOTECA DEL #HIANTI #LASSICO 6IA 'IOVANNI DA 6ERRAZZANO CLOSED -ON 3IGN POSTED DOWN A BRANCH ROAD THE 2OMANESQUE 0IEVE DI 3AN ,EOLINO KM SOUTH OF THE VILLAGE IS ONE OF THE OLDEST CHURCHES IN #HIANTI AND TRACES ITS ORI GINS TO THE lRST #HRISTIAN SETTLERS THE MOST NOTABLE OF ITS PAINTINGS IS A -ADONNA WITH 33 0ETER AND 0AUL CREATED IN THE MID THIRTEENTH CENTURY 4HE TOWN IS ALSO KNOWN AS THE HOME OF THE !NTICA -ACELLERIA #ECCHINI PERHAPS THE MOST FAMOUS BUTCHERS SHOP IN THE COUNTRY THOUGH IT STANDS IN RELATION TO ORDINARY BUTCHERS SHOPS IN THE SAME WAY AS A &ERRARI RELATES TO A &IAT VAN n IT EVEN HAS A DOWNSTAIRS ROOM FOR WINE TASTINGS ART SHOWS AND CONCERTS )N EXISTENCE FOR YEARS ITS RUN BY $ARIO #ECCHINI A CHARISMATIC AND ELOQUENT CHAMPION OF 4USCAN CARNIVOROUS CUISINE AND #HIANTI TRADITIONS IN GENERAL
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4HE SUMMIT OF THE NEXT MAIN HILL KM SOUTH IS OCCUPIED BY WELL HEELED #!34%,,).! ). #()!.4) WHICH FORMERLY STOOD ON THE FRONT LINE OF THE CONTINUAL WARS BETWEEN &LORENCE AND 3IENA 4HE WALLS FORTRESS AND THE COVERED WALKWAY KNOWN AS THE 6IA DELLE 6OLTE n A KIND OF GALLERY LOOKING EAST FROM UNDERNEATH THE TOWN IT WAS ORIGINALLY OPEN BUT HOUSES WERE LATER BUILT OVER IT n ALL BEAR TESTIMONY TO AN EMBATTLED PAST 4RACES OF A MORE DISTANT ERA CAN BE SEEN AT THE )POGEO %TRUSCO DI -ONTECALVARIO OPEN DAYLIGHT HOURS FREE A COMPLEX OF SUBTERRANEAN SIXTH CENTURY "# %TRUSCAN BURIAL CHAMBERS CARVED INTO THE SUMMIT OF A SMALL HILL THATS lVE MINUTES WALK TO THE SOUTH OF THE VIL LAGE "UT NEITHER THE %TRUSCAN TOMBS NOR THE TOWNS ONE SIZEABLE CHURCH n THE NEO 2OMANESQUE 3AN 3ALVATORE NOTABLE ONLY FOR A SINGLE lFTEENTH CENTURY FRESCO AND THE MUMMIlED REMAIN OF THE OBSCURE 3T &AUSTO n ARE WHAT BRINGS IN THE TOURISTS 7INE IS OF COURSE #ASTELLINAS PRIMARY ATTRACTION AS IS EVIDENT FROM THE POWER STATION BULK OF THE WINE CO OPERATIVE ON THE MAIN ROAD THE LOCAL VINTAGES AND OLIVE OIL CAN BE SAMPLED AT SEVERAL PLACES IN TOWN NOTABLY ,A #AS TELLINA WHICH OCCUPIES MUCH OF THE GROUND mOOR OF A HUGE lFTEENTH CENTURY PALAZZO AT 6IA &ERRUCCIO AND "OTTEGA DEL 6INO AT 6IA DELLA 2OCCA 4HE #ASTELLINA TOURIST OFlCE IS AT 6IA &ERRUCCIO DAILY AMnPM nPM 0ICK OF THE HOTELS IN TOWN IS THE THREE STAR 0ALAZZO 3QUARCIA LUPI ABOVE THE #ASTELLINA ENOTECA AT 6IA &ERRUCCIO WWW PALAZZOSQUARCIALUPICOM !NOTHER GOOD THREE STAR THE (OTEL #OLLE %TRUSCO 3ALIVOLPI IS LOCATED AT 6IA &IORENTINA A SHORT DISTANCE NORTHWEST OF #AS TELLINA ON THE ROAD TO 3AN $ONATO WWWHOTELSALIVOLPI COM SURROUNDED BY A BEAUTIFUL GARDEN IT HAS AN OUTDOOR POOL AND LARGE TIMBER CEILINGED BEDROOMS )N THE VILLAGE OF 4RÏGOLE KM SOUTH THERES NICE "" ACCOMMODATION AT THE &ATTORIA 4RÏGOLE VINEYARD WWW FATTORIA TREGOLECOM WHICH ALSO HAS A COUPLE OF SELF CONTAINED APARTMENTS AND A POOL &OR EATING IN #ASTELLINA LOOK NO FURTHER THAN ,A 4ORRE 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE CLOSED &RI n ITS A lNE UNSPOILT AND WELL PRICED 4USCAN TRATTORIA 2ADDA AND AROUND
4HE BEST OF #HIANTI LIES EAST OF #ASTELLINA AND THE #HIANTIGIANA IN THE LESS DOMESTICATED TERRAIN OF THE -ONTI DEL #HIANTI n THE STRONGHOLD OF THE ,EGA DI #HIANTI WHOSE POWER BASES WERE #ASTELLINA ITSELF AND THE TWO PRINCIPAL SETTLE MENTS OF THIS CRAGGY REGION 2ADDA AND 'AIOLE 4HE NEARER OF THESE THE ANCIENT %TRUSCAN FOUNDED TOWN OF 2!$$! ). #()!.4) BECAME THE LEAGUES CAPITAL IN AND THE IMPRINT OF THE PERIOD IS PERHAPS STRONGER HERE THAN ANYWHERE ELSE IN #HIANTI 4HE STREET PLAN OF THIS MINUSCULE BUT HISTORIC CENTRE IS FOCUSED ON 0IAZZA &ERRUCCI WHERE THE FRESCOED AND SHIELD STUDDED 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE FACES A CHURCH RAISED ON A HIGH PLATFORM .EITHER IS AN OUTSTANDING BUILDING ON ITS OWN BUT TAKEN TOGETHER THEY FORM AN IMPRESSIVE ANCIENT CORE THAT GIVES 2ADDA ITS APPEAL 4HE TOURIST OFlCE LURKS BEHIND THE CHURCH ON THE CORNER OF 0IAZZA DEL #AS TELLO -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AM PM 3TYLISH ACCOM MODATION IS ON OFFER AT THE THREE STAR (OTEL 0ODERE ,E 6IGNE WWWTUSCANYNET VIGNE A CONVERTED FARM LOCATED A KILOMETRE OUTSIDE 2ADDA JUST OFF THE ROAD BETWEEN 2ADDA AND THE HAMLET OF 6ILLA A 2ADDA IN ADDITION TO THE ROOMS AT THE FORMER FARM ,E 6IGNE HAS SOME PLAINER BUT STILL VERY PLEASANT ACCOMMODATION IN THE CENTRE OF 2ADDA AND THERES A TERRIlC RESTAURANT AT THE MAIN SITE WHERE YOULL PAY AROUND + EACH !T 6IA 2OMA YOULL lND THE (OTEL 0ALAZZO ,EOPOLDO WWWPALAZZOLEOPOLDOIT WHICH WAS FOUNDED AS A PILGRIMS HOSTEL THEN CONVERTED INTO A MAGNIlCENT
4HE SAME DISTANCE SOUTH OF 2ADDA IS !-! ONCE A FORTIlCATION ON THE SOUTH ERN EDGE OF &LORENTINE TERRITORY 2OUND THE VILLAGE ARE RANGED THE VINEYARDS OF ONE OF #HIANTIS lRST RANK WINE ESTATES #ASTELLO DI !MA WHICH OFFERS TASTINGS THROUGHOUT THE YEAR NOT !UG ! LITTLE FURTHER SOUTH IN 3!. 3!./ YOULL lND THE PLEASANT 4RATTORIA 'ROTTA DELLA 2ANA AND THE (OTEL 2ESIDENZA 3AN 3ANO CLOSED .OVn-ARCH !BOUT KM SOUTH OF 3AN 3ANO AT 0IEVASCIATA ON THE MINOR ROAD PARALLEL TO THE . YOULL COME ACROSS THE #HIANTI 3CULPTURE 0ARK AN INTRIGUING NEW INITIATIVE WHERE ARTISTS FROM A GREAT RANGE OF CULTURES )NDIA :IMBABWE #OLOMBIA AND *APAN ARE ALL REPRESENT ED HAVE BEEN COMMISSIONED TO CREATE SITE SPECIlC OPEN AIR WORK !PRILn/CT 4UESn3UN AMnSUNSET +
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3OUTH OF 2ADDA
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TOWN HOUSE PRIOR TO BECOMING AN EXTREMELY ELEGANT FOUR STAR HOTEL WITH A VERY GOOD RESTAURANT !T THE TOP OF THE RANGE LIES THE 2ELAIS &ATTORIA ,A 6IGNALE ON THE EDGE OF THE VILLAGE AT 6IA 0IANIGIANI WWWVIGNALEIT IT HAS A GOOD WINE BAR IN THE CELLARS AND A RESTAURANT CLOSED 4HURS MID *AN TO MID -ARCH A TOUCH PRICIER THAN ,E 6IGNE 4HERE ARE NO LOW COST HOTELS IN 2ADDA BUT YOU CAN EAT CHEAPLY AND WELL AT THE $A -ICHELE TRATTORIA PIZZERIA #LOSED -ON n ITS AT THE END OF THE CAR PARK BELOW THE TOWN WALLS AND IS PROMINENTLY SIGNPOSTED OFF THE MAIN ROAD !BOUT KM NORTH OF 2ADDA LIES THE UNSPOILT VILLAGE OF 6/,0!)! WHICH FROM THE TENTH TO THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY WAS AN IMPORTANT MILITARY LOOKOUT OVER THE VALLEY OF THE 0ESA 4HE MEDIEVAL DONJON STILL STANDS BUT THE MOST INTEREST ING STRUCTURE IS THE DECONSECRATED #OMMENDA DI 3ANT%UFROSINO DESIGNED BY -ICHELOZZO AND NOW USED AS A CANTINA AND EXHIBITION SPACE BY THE #ASTELLO DI 6OLPAIA WINE ESTATE WWWVOLPAIAIT
"ADÖA A #OLTIBUONO
(EADING EAST FROM 2ADDA AND TAKING THE lRST TURNING LEFT AFTER THE 6ILLA -IRAN DA YOU PASS THE FOOT OF THE HILL ON WHICH STANDS THE "ADÖA A #OLTIBUONO KM FROM 2ADDA 4HIS 6ALLOMBROSAN ABBEY SEE P WAS FOUNDED ON THE SITE OF AN EIGHTH CENTURY HERMITAGE AND ITS CHURCH OF 3AN ,ORENZO BUILT IN IS ONE OF 4USCANYS lNEST 2OMANESQUE BUILDINGS 4HE MONASTIC COMPLEX IS NOW OWNED BY ONE OF THE BIGGEST WINE ESTATES IN THE REGION WHOSE VINTAGES ARE SERVED AT THE FAMOUS "ADÖA A #OLTIBUONO RESTAURANT ADJOINING THE ABBEY WWWCOLTIBUONOCOM .OVn!PRIL CLOSED -ON ALSO CLOSED *AN TO EARLY -ARCH n A MEAL HERE WILL COST UPWARDS OF + PER HEAD BUT SOME MIGHT SAY THAT THE STANDARD OF COOKING DOESNT ALWAYS LIVE UP TO THE REPUTATION 4HE "ADÖA IS ALSO CELEBRATED FOR ITS LAVISH RESIDENTIAL COOKERY COURSES DETAILED ON ITS WEBSITE AND SINCE n WHEN IT BEGAN MARKETING ITSELF AS )TALYS lRST hWINE RESORTv n HAS BEEN OFFERING ACCOMMODATION IN TEN BEAUTIFULLY CONVERTED MONASTIC CELLS FROM + 4HERE ARE SOME GOOD #LUB !LPINO WALKS LAID OUT THROUGH THE OAK AND PINE WOODS ON THE SURROUNDING SLOPES 'AIOLE AND "ROLIO
-ODERN TIMES HAVE CAUGHT UP WITH THE THIRD OF THE ,EGA DI #HIANTI TRIAD '!)/,% KM SOUTH OF #OLTIBUONO .OW A BRISK MARKET TOWN IT HAS A WINE CO OPERATIVE AT 6IA -ULINACCIO WHICH OFFERS SPLENDID TASTING OPPORTUNITIES AS DOES THE %NOTECA -ONTAGNANI 6IA "ANDINELLI n WHICH HAS A SUPERLATIVE RANGE OF #HIANTI #LASSICO 4HE MOST IMPRESSIVE SIGHTS IN THE IMMEDIATE AREA ARE THE RUINS OF THE #ASTELLO DI 6ERTINE OCCUPYING THE HEIGHTS KM WEST OF THE VILLAGE AND THE FORTIlED VILLAGE OF "ARBISCHIO UP A WINDING LITTLE ROAD TO THE
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\ 4HE -UGELLO
EAST $EVOTEES OF MILITARY RUINS COULD FOLLOW THE SIGNPOSTED 3TRADA DEI #ASTELLI FROM 'AIOLE AN ITINERARY OF HALF A DOZEN FORTRESSES BETWEEN 3PALTENA KM AND 6ISTARENNI KM 4HERE ARE A COUPLE OF PRICEY HOTELS IN THE 'AIOLE VICINITY BUT ITS NOT THE PICK OF THE #HIANTI TOWNS SO ITS BETTER TO DRIVE ON THE SAME GOES FOR PLACES TO EAT ! COUPLE OF KILOMETRES SOUTH OF 'AIOLE THE TWIN CIRCULAR TOWERS OF THE #AS TELLO DI -ELETO PEER FROM BEHIND A SCREEN OF CYPRESSES OVER THE ROAD LEADING TO #ASTAGNOLI WHERE THE HOUSES FORM A FRINGE TO A THICKSET FORTRESS -ELETO WAS FOUNDED BY THE MONKS OF #OLTIBUONO BUT BY IT WAS IN THE HANDS OF THE 2ICASOLI FAMILY WHO BUILT ITS MASSIVE FORTIlCATIONS IN THE lFTEENTH CENTURY 4HE HIGHLIGHTS OF THE GUIDED TOUR -ONn3AT AT AM PM PM 3UN AM PM PM ARE THE DELICATE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY THEATRE AND THE VISIT TO THE CANTINA WHERE YOU CAN SAMPLE THE -ELETO ESTATES OLIVE OIL WINE OR FOOD THE PRICE OF THE TOUR VARIES ACCORDING TO WHICH OPTION YOU CHOOSE -ELETO HAS ACCOMMODATION TOO RANGING FROM "" FROM AROUND + PER DOUBLE TO SEVEN BED AGRITURISMO APARTMENTS COSTING + PER WEEK 4HE BUSIEST #HIANTI CANTINA IS THAT OF THE #ASTELLO DI "ROLIO JUST OUTSIDE THE NEARBY VILLAGE OF "2/,)/ FROM #ASTAGNOLI YOU SHOULD TAKE THE MINOR ROAD THROUGH 3AN -ARTINO AL 6ENTO OR COMING FROM 'AIOLE YOU COULD TAKE THE TURNING OFF THE . AFTER -ELETO 4HIS BUILDING PASSED TO THE 2ICASOLI FAMILY AS FAR BACK AS THE TWELFTH CENTURY AND WAS THE OBJECT OF FREQUENT TUSSLES BETWEEN THE &LORENTINES AND THE 3IENESE $EMOLISHED BY THE 3IENESE ARMY IT WAS REBUILT IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY THEN CONVERTED IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY INTO A COLOSSAL MOCK MEDIEVAL COUNTRY RESIDENCE BY THE VINICULTURAL PIONEER "ARON "ETTINO 2ICASOLI 4HE BARONS APARTMENTS CAN BE VISITED ON A TOUR OF THE HOUSE SUMMER AMnNOON nPM WINTER AMnNOON nPM + BUT A FAR MORE REWARDING EXPERIENCE IS TO BUY SOME #ASTELLO DI "ROLIO WINE AT THE ESTATES ENOTECA -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM OR SAMPLE IT AS AN ACCOMPANIMENT TO A MEAL IN THE EXCELLENT /STERIA DEL #ASTELLO RESTAURANT ONE OF THE BEST PLACES TO EAT IN #HIANTI CLOSED 4HURS (IGH QUAL ITY FOOD AT A LOWER PRICE IS PROVIDED BY )L #ARLINO D/RO ALONGSIDE THE CHURCH IN THE NEIGHBOURING VILLAGE OF 3AN 2ÒGOLO n EXPECT TO PAY AROUND + A HEAD
4HE -UGELLO
&OR EVERY HUNDRED TOURISTS WHO GIVE OVER A DAY TO THE VINEYARDS OF #HIANTI PERHAPS ONE WILL GIVE A FEW HOURS TO THE -UGELLO WWWWMUGELLOTOSCANA IT THE LUSHLY FERTILE REGION ON THE 4USCAN SIDE OF THE !PENNINE RIDGE SEPARATING THE PROVINCE FROM %MILIA 2OMAGNA ,IKE #HIANTI THIS IS A BENIGN HUMANIZED SORT OF LANDSCAPE WITH NOTHING THAT WILL TAKE YOUR BREATH AWAY n BUT ITS EASIER TO AVOID THE CROWDS HERE EVEN THOUGH ITS A FAVOURITE WEEKEND HANGOUT OF THE &LORENTINE BOURGEOISIE )TS CELEBRATED OLIVE GROVES AND VINEYARDS ARE CON CENTRATED IN THE CENTRAL -UGELLO BASIN FORMED BY THE 3IEVE AND ITS TRIBUTARY VALLEYS ELSEWHERE THE VEGETATION IS PRINCIPALLY OAK PINE AND CHESTNUT FOREST INTERSPERSED WITH SMALL RESORTS WHOSE CUSTOMERS TEND TO BE SHORT STAY VACATION ERS FROM THE CITY 4HE FRINGES OF THE EASTERN PART OF THE -UGELLO LIE INSIDE THE 0ARCO .AZIONALE DELLE &ORESTE #ASENTINESI n FOR MORE ON THIS NATIONAL PARK AND ITS VISITOR CENTRES SEE P !S WITH #HIANTI YOULL NEED YOUR OWN TRANSPORT TO SEE ANYTHING MUCH 4HREE MAIN ROADS RUN FROM &LORENCE THE 6IA "OLOGNA . WHICH PASSES 0RATOLINO
4HE 3ISTEMA -USEALE IN -UGELLO E 6ALDISIEVE
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\ 4HE -UGELLO
,IKE THE #ASENTINO THE -UGELLO HAS A NETWORK OF SMALL MUSEUMS DEVOTED TO THE TRADITIONAL WAY OF LIFE AND THE CULTURE OF THE REGION MOST OF THEM OPEN AT WEEKENDS ONLY 4HE BEST OF THE MUSEUMS AFlLIATED TO THIS 3ISTEMA -USEALE IN -UGELLO E 6ALD ISIEVE n SUCH AS THE ONE IN 2EGGELLO n ARE COVERED IN THE MAIN PART OF THE GUIDE /THERS THAT YOU MIGHT WANT TO TAKE A LOOK AT SHOULD YOU lND YOURSELF CLOSE BY ARE LISTED BELOW "ORGO 3AN ,ORENZO -USEO DELLA -ANIFATTURA #HINI #HINI CERAMICS MUSEUM -USEO DELLA #IVILTÌ #ONTADINI MUSEUM OF RURAL TRADITIONS &IRENZUOLA -USEO DELLA 0IETRA 3ERENA STONEWORK MUSEUM -USEO DEL 0AESAGGIO 3TORICO DELL!PPENNINO !PENNINE HISTORICAL LANDSCAPE MUSEUM -USEO 3TORICO %TNOGRAlCO MUSEUM OF LOCAL HISTORY 0ALAZZUOLO -USEO DELLE 'ENTI DI -ONTAGNA MOUNTAIN PEOPLES MUSEUM -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO !LTO -UGELLO ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM 0ELAGO -USEO D!RTE 3ACRA SACRED ART MUSEUM 2ÞlNA -USEO DELLA 6ITE E DEL 6INO VINE AND WINE MUSEUM 3CARPERIA -USEO DEI &ERRI 4AGLIENTE KNIFE MUSEUM -USEO DI 6ITA !RTIGIANA E #ONTADINA MUSEUM OF RURAL AND ARTISAN LIFE 2ACCOLTA DI !RTE 3ACRA SACRED ART COL LECTION
ON ITS WAY TO THE 0ASSO DELLA &UTA THE . DIRECT TO "ORGO 3AN ,ORENZO AND THE . WHICH WINDS UP TO "ORGO 3AN ,ORENZO ALONG THE 3IEVE "Y PUB LIC TRANSPORT THERES A CHOICE BETWEEN THE 3IEVE VALLEY TRAIN LINE TO "ORGO 3AN ,ORENZO NEARLY ALL OF THESE &AENZA BOUND TRAINS DEPART FROM #AMPO DI -ARTE STATION RATHER THAN 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA OR 3)4! AND #!0 BUSES ALONG THE SAME ROUTE BUSES RUN FROM "ORGO 3AN ,ORENZO TO THE WESTERN AND NORTHERN PARTS OF -UGELLO
%ASTERN -UGELLO 4HE 3IEVE mOWS INTO THE !RNO AT THE UNPREPOSSESSING TOWN OF 0/. 4!33)%6% WHICH MAKES ITS MONEY FROM THE 2ÞlNA WINE DISTRICT IMMEDI ATELY TO THE NORTH &ROM HERE THE . CLAMBERS OVER THE 0ASSO DELLA #ON SUMA THEN DROPS SOUTH INTO THE #ASENTINO TOWARDS 0OPPI SEE P 4HE . TRAILS THE VALLEY THROUGH THE MODERATELY INDUSTRIALIZED AREA UP TO 2ÞlNA THEN ON THROUGH $ICOMANO WHERE IT VEERS OFF TOWARDS &ORLÖ IN %MILIA 2OMAGNA PASSING THROUGH THE !LPE DI 3AN "ENEDETTO 4HE MAIN SETTLEMENT IN THIS PART OF THE -UGELLO IS 3AN 'ODENZO WHICH BOASTS AN ELEVENTH CENTURY ABBEY AND NOT A LOT ELSE (UGGING THE COURSE OF THE 3IEVE BEYOND $ICOMANO THE . RUNS ON THROUGH 6)##()/ THE BIRTHPLACE OF &RA !NGELICO 5NSURPRISINGLY THE VILLAGE MAKES THE MOST OF THE !NGELICO CONNECTION BUT THE -USEO DI !RTE 3ACRA E 2ELIGIOSITÌ 0OPOLARE "EATO !NGELICO *UNE n3EPT 4HURS 3AT 3UN AMnNOON nPM REST OF YEAR 3AT 3UN AMnNOON nPM + IS A CONTEXT SETTING EXERCISE RATHER THAN A CELEBRATION OF THE MAN HIMSELF AND DOESNT CONTAIN ANYTHING THATS LIKELY TO EXCITE GREATLY THOUGH THE ARRAY OF WORKADAY RELIGIOUS ARTEFACTS IS VERY WELL DISPLAYED 4HE BEST PLACE TO STAY IN 6IC CHIO IS THE VERY PLEASANT PARKLAND GIRDLED THREE STAR HOTEL 6ILLA #AMPESTRI 6IA DI #AMPESTRI n WWWVILLACAMPESTRIIT WHICH HAS A VERY GOOD RESTAURANT AND n IN THE CELLARS n )TALYS lRST OLEOTECA WHERE HOTEL GUESTS CAN SAMPLE AND LEARN ABOUT THE REGIONS lNEST OLIVE OILS 4HERE ARE TWO GOOD CAMPSITES IN THE VICINITY 6ECCHIO 0ONTE AT 6IA #OSTOLI
!2/5.$ & , /2% .# %
*UNEn3EPT AND 2ESIDENCE 0ARK 6ALDISIEVE IN #ALDETA MIDWAY BETWEEN 6ICCHIO AND $ICOMANO *UNEn3EPT .EXT STOP ALONG THE MAIN ROAD IS ANOTHER EXALTED BIRTHPLACE 6%30)' .!./ WHERE 'IOTTO WAS BORN IN AROUND (IS CAREER STARTED SO THE STORY GOES WHEN #IMABUE HAPPENED TO PASS BY THE SPOT WHERE THE BOY WAS TENDING HIS FATHERS mOCK 'IOTTO WAS DRAWING A PICTURE OF ONE OF THE SHEEP ON A STONE AND #IMABUE WAS SO ASTONISHED BY THE SHEPHERDS PROlCIENCY THAT HE IMMEDIATELY TOOK HIM ON AS AN APPRENTICE 4HE BRIDGE WHERE THE CRUCIAL ENCOUNTER IS SAID TO HAVE OCCURRED IS A FEW HUNDRED METRES OUT OF 6ESPIGNANO AND IS WELL SIGNPOSTED 4HE FARMHOUSE IN WHICH 'IOTTO WAS ACTUALLY BORN n THE #ASA DI 'IOTTO 4HURSn3UN *UNE n3EPT AMnNOON nPM REST OF YEAR AMnNOON nPM + n IS KM OFF TO THE NORTH ALSO WELL SIGNPOSTED AS WITH THE HOMES OF ,EONARDO AND -ICHELANGELO THIS HAS VALUE ONLY AS A PILGRIMAGE SITE
\ 4HE -UGELLO
"ORGO 3AN ,ORENZO 7ITH A POPULATION OF OR SO "/2'/ 3!. ,/2%.:/ IS THE GIANT OF -UGELLO TOWNS WITH INDUSTRIAL PLOTS AND TRACTS OF NEW HOUSING SPREADING FURTHER WITH EACH YEAR n IMPROVED RAIL CONNECTIONS WITH &LORENCE HAVE GIVEN AN ADDED BOOST TO THE TOWN IN RECENT YEARS 3UBSTANTIALLY REBUILT AFTER A MASSIVE EARTHQUAKE IN IT HAS JUST ONE MAJOR BUILDING THE 0IEVE DI 3AN ,ORENZO AN ELEVENTH CENTURY FOUNDATION THAT WAS RENOVATED IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY BUT STILL RETAINS ITS IRREGULARLY HEXAGONAL 2OMANESQUE TOWER 4HIS ISNT THE MOST PHOTOGRAPHED SIGHT IN TOWN THOUGH n THAT HONOUR GOES TO THE GHASTLY STATUE OF &IDO IN 0IAZZA $ANTE A MEMORABLE EXAMPLE OF MONUMENTALIZED SENTIMENTALITY 0ICK OF THE HOTELS IN TOWN IS THE TINY THREE STAR ,OCANDA DEGLI !RTISTI 0IAZZA 2OMAGNOLI WWWLOCANDAARTISTIIT BUT BETTER VALUE IS OFFERED BY THE THREE STAR 4RE &IUMI A CONVERTED POST HOUSE IN 4RE &IUMI JUST KM OUTSIDE NEARBY 2ONTA WWWALBERGOTRElUMICOM WHICH ALSO HAS A RES TAURANT !LTERNATIVELY THE TOURIST OFlCE IN THE 6ILLA 0ECORI 'IRALDI 6IA 0 4OGLIATTI 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM WHICH IS THE MAIN OFlCE FOR THE WHOLE -UGELLO HAS DETAILS OF PLENTIFUL AGRITURISMI )F YOURE TRAVELLING BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT FROM &LORENCE AND WANT TO CARRY ON WESTWARDS INTO -UGELLO YOULL HAVE TO CHANGE HERE FOR THE LOCAL BUS ROUTE THROUGH 3AN 0IERO A 3IEVE AND 3CARPERIA TO "ARBERINO DI -UGELLO 4HE TRAIN LINE HEADS NORTH FROM "ORGO 3AN ,ORENZO TO &AENZA WHILE THE ROAD NORTH DIVIDES AFTER ABOUT KM ONE BRANCH GOING TO THE BLAND RESORT OF 0ALAZZUOLO SUL 3ÏNIO THE OTHER TO THE SIMILAR -ARRADI )F YOURE DRIVING THAT WAY YOU COULD CALL AT THE CHURCH OF 3AN 'IOVANNI -AGGIORE OPEN 3UN AMnPM KM NORTH OF THE TOWN AT THE END OF AN AVENUE OF CYPRESS TREES ,IKE 3AN ,ORENZO IT TOO HAS A lNE 2OMANESQUE CAMPANILE AND INSIDE THERES A TWELFTH CENTURY MARBLE PULPIT PLUS A LOT OF SLIGHTLY INCONGRUOUS ,IBERTY STYLE DECORATION APPLIED TO THE CHURCH IN THE S
3AN 0IERO A 3IEVE AND WESTERN -UGELLO
4HE . CONTINUES UP THE 3IEVE FROM "ORGO 3AN ,ORENZO TO 3!. 0)%2/ ! 3)%6% CROSSING THE . COMING UP FROM &LORENCE 4HE -UGELLO LANDSCAPE IS AT ITS BEST HERE WITH PLOUGHED lELDS FOREGROUNDING THE SLOPES OF TREE CRESTED CONICAL HILLS 3AN 0IEROS 2OMANESQUE CHURCH SPOILED BY AN EIGHTEENTH CENTURY FACADE HOUSES A BEAUTIFUL TERRACOTTA FONT POSSIBLY BY ,UCA DELLA 2OBBIA ITS OTHER MAIN MONUMENT IS THE -EDICI FORTRESS OVERLOOKING THE TOWN BUILT BY "UONTALENTI IN
4REBBIO AND #AFAGGIOLO
\ 4HE -UGELLO
4HE -EDICI WERE ORIGINALLY FROM -UGELLO AND THE ENVIRONS OF 3AN 0IERO CON TAIN TWO ROUGH HEWN VILLAS WHICH ENCAPSULATE SOMETHING OF THE mAVOUR OF THE PERIOD WHEN THE FAMILY SECURED ITS POLITICAL ASCENDANCY .EAR .OVOLI AN UNSURFACED ROAD RUNS WEST FROM THE 6IA "OLOGNA TO THE -EDI CI CASTLE OF 4REBBIO WHOSE FORTIlED TOWER PEEPS OVER A CORDON OF CYPRESSES FROM THE TOP OF ITS HILL 4HIS FOURTEENTH CENTURY CASTLE WAS CONVERTED INTO A COUNTRY ABODE BY -ICHELOZZO IN AND BECAME A PARTICULAR FAVOURITE WITH 'IOVANNI DELLE "ANDE .ERE AND HIS BRANCH OF THE -EDICI CLAN IT WAS FROM HERE THAT 'IOVANNIS SON #OSIMO RODE DOWN TO &LORENCE TO ASSUME POWER AFTER THE ASSASSINATION OF !LESSANDRO DE -EDICI 4HE SMALL GARDEN IS OFTEN OPEN TO THE PUBLIC AND THE HOUSE ITSELF CAN BE VISITED ON OVERPRICED GUIDED TOURS 4UESn&RI MORNINGS BOOKINGS + ! SHORT DISTANCE NORTH RIGHT ON THE 6IA "OLOGNA LIES THE VILLA OF #AFAG GIOLO WHICH LIKE 4REBBIO WAS A FORTRESS CONVERTED FOR LESS BELLICOSE USE BY -ICHELOZZO 7HEN #OSIMO IL 6ECCHIO SET ABOUT CONSOLIDATING THE FAMILY FORTUNE THROUGH LAND ACQUISITION IN THEIR ANCESTRAL DOMAIN ONE OF HIS lRST VENTURES WAS TO BUY THIS ESTATE WHICH COMPRISED THE CASTLE AND TRACTS OF LAND FOR HUNTING AND AGRICULTURE )T WAS AT #AFAGGIOLO THAT #OSIMOS IMMEDIATE DESCENDANTS ,ORENZO IL -AGNIlCO AND HIS BROTHER GREW UP AND ,ORENZOS OWN CHILDREN n 0IERO 'IOVANNI 0OPE ,EO 8 AND 'IULIANO n WERE TAUGHT HERE BY SUCH LUMINARIES AS &ICINO 0OLIZIANO AND 0ICO DELLA -IRANDOLA )N THOSE DAYS THE HOUSE WOULD HAVE HAD AN EVEN LESS SUAVE APPEARANCE THAN IT DOES NOW ALTERATIONS IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY DID AWAY WITH THE SURROUND ING WALLS THE MOAT THE DRAWBRIDGE AND ONE OF ITS TOWERS 4HE INTERIOR NOW HOME TO A COOKING SCHOOL CAN BE SEEN ONLY ON GROUP GUIDED TOURS SUMMER 7ED &RI 3AT nPM PLUS 3AT 3UN AMnPM WINTER 3UN AMnPM nPM +
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3AN 0IERO HAS AN UNCHARISMATIC HOTEL THE THREE STAR %BE 6IA ,E -OZZETE A EBEWEBIT THE HOTEL RESTAURANT IS MORE THAN ACCEPTABLE WITH A MENU THAT TENDS TO FAVOUR DISHES FROM %MILIA 2OMAGNA RATHER THAN 4US CANY 4HE %BE HAS LUDICROUSLY CHEAP ROOMS AT ITS ONE STAR DIPENDENZA ANNEXE 6IA DI #AFAGGIO 4HERES ALSO AN ALL YEAR CAMPSITE -UGELLO 6ERDE WWWmORENCECAMPINGCOM KM OUTSIDE THE TOWN AT ,A &ORTEZZA
"ARBERINO DI -UGELLO TO THE 0ASSO DELLA &UTA
.ORTH OF #AFAGGIOLO THE GRADIENT OF THE ROAD GETS PRETTY SAVAGE AS IT BEGINS THE CLIMB TO 0ASSO DELLA &UTA IF YOU DONT HAVE ENOUGH UNDER THE BONNET TO DO THE CLIMB COMFORTABLY THERES A LESS STRENUOUS LOOP THAT GOES THROUGH THE MAIN MARKET TOWN OF WESTERN -UGELLO "!2"%2)./ $) -5'%,,/ )N THE EARLY FOURTEENTH CENTURY THIS BECAME A &LORENTINE BORDER POST AND IN LATER YEARS -ICHELOZZO PICKED UP SOME WORK HERE TOO GIVING THE MAIN SQUARE ITS LOGGIA n THE ,OGGIE -EDICEE NATURALLY THE NEIGHBOURING MUCH DECORATED 0ALAZZO 0RETORIO AND THE #ASTELLO DEI #ATTANI ARE THE ONLY OTHER BUILDINGS TO CATCH THE EYE "ARBERINO HAS A GOOD VALUE TWO STAR HOTEL )L #AVALLO 6IALE DELLA 2EPUBBLICA WWWALBERGOCAVALLOIT WITH A lNE RESTAURANT ATTACHED /UTSIDE "ARBERINO AT 6IA 3ANTA ,UCIA A IN -ONTE DI &O IS THE WELL EQUIPPED ALL YEAR 3ERGENTE CAMPSITE INFO CAMPINGILSERGENTEIT &ROM WHERE THE "ARBERINO LOOP REJOINS 6IA "OLOGNA ITS AN UNRELENTING HAUL UP TO THE 0ASSO DELLA &UTA FROM WHOSE METRE VANTAGE ALL OF THE -UGEL
LOS VALLEYS AND RIDGES ARE VISIBLE 4HIS ISNT THE HIGHEST POINT ON THE -UGELLOS ROAD NETWORK n 0ASSO DELLA 2ATICOSA KM ON IS A FEW METRES HIGHER n BUT ITS EASILY THE BEST VIEWPOINT
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4HE SECLUDED MONASTERY OF "OSCO AI &RATI REACHED BY TAKING A LEFT TURN OFF THE . IMMEDIATELY NORTH OF 3AN 0IERO ITS A ROUGH KM TRACK TRACES ITS ROOTS BACK TO A COMMUNITY OF 'REEK MONKS WHO ARRIVED HERE IN THE SEVENTH CENTURY )N THE EARLY ELEVENTH CENTURY THE SETTLEMENT WAS ABANDONED BUT TWO CENTURIES LATER 3T &RANCIS ESTABLISHED HIS ORDER HERE /NE OF THE EARLIEST &RANCISCAN SAINTS "ONAVENTURE WAS THE PRIOR AT "OSCO AI &RATI A MAN OF EXEMPLARY MODESTY HE REFUSED TO PUT ON THE CARDINALS ATTIRE BROUGHT TO HIM BY A PAPAL DELEGATION UNTIL HED lNISHED WASHING UP HIS BROTHERS POTS AND PANS 4HE TREE WHERE THE OUTlT WAS HUNG IS STILL THERE #OSIMO IL 6ECCHIO SANK A LOT OF MONEY INTO THIS MONASTERY HIRING -ICHELOZZO TO REDESIGN THE COMPLEX IN THE PLAINEST EARLY 2ENAISSANCE STYLE IN THE TINY MUSE UM ATTACHED TO -ICHELOZZOS PORTICOED CHURCH DAILY AMnPM IS THE MOST REMARKABLE WORK OF ART IN THE -UGELLO A PAIN RACKED #RUCIlX PROBABLY CARVED BY $ONATELLO FOR THE -EDICI AND CERTAINLY DONATED TO THE MONASTERY BY THEM "EYOND THE TURNING FOR "OSCO AI &RATI THE . CONTINUES TO 3#!20%2)! ONCE THE BIGGEST PRODUCER OF CUTLERY IN 4USCANY AND NOW A HIGH QUALITY CENTRE FOR THE INDUSTRY 3ITTING ON A PLATFORM OF ROCK ABOVE A VALLEY KM FROM 3AN 0IERO ITS ESSENTIALLY A ONE STREET TOWN LAID OUT BY THE &LORENTINES AFTER THEY TURNED IT INTO THEIR CHIEF MILITARY BASE IN THE REGION IN 4HE 0ALAZZO DEI 6ICARI BUILT IN THE SAME YEAR ALONG THE LINES OF &LORENCES 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO HAS A RASH OF COATS OF ARMS ON THE OUTSIDE AND EXTENSIVE FRESCOES ON THE INSIDE .ONE OF ITS CHURCHES IS REMARKABLE THOUGH ONE OF THEM BEARS AN UNUSUAL DEDICATION TO /UR ,ADY OF THE %ARTHQUAKES 3CARPERIA HAS A PLAIN LITTLE TWO STAR HOTEL #ANTAGALLO 6IA +ENNEDY HOTELCANTAGALLO LIBEROIT )F YOURE PER PLEXED BY CROWDS AROUND THE TOWN THEYRE ON THEIR WAY TO THE MOTOR RACING TRACK ON THE EASTERN OUTSKIRTS BUILT IN THE S ITS BEST KNOWN AS )TALYS GRAND PRIX MOTORBIKE CIRCUIT ! SMALL ROAD CLIMBS NORTHWEST TO THE TINY VILLAGE OF 3!.4!'!4! WHERE THE 2OMANESQUE PARISH CHURCH CONTAINS SOME BEAUTIFUL INLAID PANELS FROM A DISMAN TLED TWELFTH CENTURY PULPIT AND A TABERNACLE BY 'IOVANNI DELLA 2OBBIA 4HE . BECOMES A SWITCHBACK AFTER THIS TURNOFF SWOOPING THROUGH THE REGION KNOWN AS -UGELLOS h,ITTLE 3WITZERLANDv TO THE HILL RESORT OF &)2%.:5/,! KM FROM 3CARPERIA REBUILT AFTER A lERCE BATTLE IN AND WITH FEW BLANDISHMENTS
0RATO
4AKING ITS NAME FROM THE MEADOW PRATO WHERE THE ANCIENT SETTLEMENTS GREAT MARKET USED TO BE HELD 02!4/ HAS LONG BEEN A COMMERCIAL SUCCESS AND IS NOW THE SECOND LARGEST CITY IN 4USCANY AFTER &LORENCE )TS BEEN )TALYS CHIEF TEXTILE CENTRE SINCE THE EARLY -IDDLE !GES AND EVEN THOUGH RECESSION HAS DAM AGED EXPORTS IT STILL PRODUCES THREE QUARTERS OF ALL THE WOOLLEN CLOTH SOLD FROM )TALY WITH SOME LOCAL COMPANIES BEING INVOLVED IN THE PRODUCTION AND MARKETING OF TEXTILES )T MIGHT NOT FEATURE ON A LIST OF THE MOST ATTRACTIVE PLACES IN THE REGION BUT ITS LONG TIME WEALTH HAS LEFT A FAIR LEGACY OF BUILDINGS AND ART INCLUDING AN UNEQUALLED COLLECTION OF PAINTINGS BY &ILIPPO ,IPPI WHOSE FRESCOES ADORN THE BEGUILING $UOMO
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! CLOSE &LORENTINE CONNECTION GOES BACK TO WHEN THE SELF GOVERNING COMUNE OF 0RATO WAS BESIEGED BY ITS NEIGHBOUR WHICH BY THEN WAS BECOMING ALARMED AT THE ECONOMIC THREAT OF 0RATOS CLOTH MILLS 4HE YEAR AFTER &LOR ENCE BOUGHT THE TITLES TO THE TOWN FROM ITS .EAPOLITAN RULERS THUS SEALING THEIR UNION 4HEREAFTER POLITICAL EVENTS IN THE CAPITAL WERE MIRRORED HERE A RELATIONSHIP THAT WAS TO COST 0RATO DEAR AFTER 3AVONAROLAS EXAMPLE LED THE 0RATESE TO JOIN HIM IN REJECTING THE -EDICI 5NDER THE DIRECTION OF ,EO 8 THE IMPERIAL ARMY SACKED 0RATO IN AS A WARNING TO THE REBELLIOUS &LORENTINES 4WO DAYS OF SLAUGHTER AND PILLAGE ENSUED RECORDED BY HISTORIAN 'UICCIARDINI h.OTHING WOULD HAVE ESCAPED THE AVARICE LUST AND CRUELTY OF THE INVADERS HAD NOT THE #ARDINAL DE -EDICI PLACED GUARDS AT THE MAIN CHURCH AND SAVED THE HONOUR OF THE WOMEN WHO HAD TAKEN REFUGE THERE -ORE THAN TWO THOUSAND MEN DIED NOT lGHTINGx BUT mEEING OR CRYING FOR MERCYv ! MORE PACIlC RELATIONSHIP WAS SOON ESTABLISHED AND &LORENCE LIMITED ITS BULLYING TO THE IMPOSITION OF QUOTAS ON 0RATOS FACTORIES 4ODAY THE BALANCE HAS SHIFTED WHILE 0RATO IS FAIRLY SELF SUFlCIENT &LORENCE STRUGGLES TO lND SOME ALTERNATIVE TO A SERVICE BASED ECONOMY
4HE #ITY 4HE HISTORIC CENTRE REMAINS ENCLOSED WITHIN ITS HEXAGON OF GREY STONE WALLS MAKING ORIENTATION VERY STRAIGHTFORWARD "USES FROM &LORENCE RUN DIRECT TO THE 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO IF YOURE COMING FROM THE MAIN TRAIN STATION ITS BASICALLY A QUESTION OF FOLLOWING YOUR NOSE n CROSS THE 0ONTE DELLA 6ITTORIA OVER THE
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7ALKING FROM THE TRAIN STATION IF YOU VEER SHARP LEFT AT 0IAZZA 3AN -ARCO WHERE THE TRAFlC SWIRLS AROUND A LARGE (ENRY -OORE SCULPTURE YOULL PASS UNDER THE #ASSERO n A FORTIlED CORRIDOR BUILT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY TO LINK THE CASTLE TO THE CITY WALLS n AND SOON COME TO THE FORMER #AMPOLMI FACTORY IN 6IA 3ANTA #HIARA A HUGE NINETEENTH CENTURY TEXTILE MILL THAT HAS RECENTLY BEEN CONVERTED INTO A VERY IMPRESSIVE HOME FOR THE -USEO DEL 4ES SUTO -ON 7EDn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM + FREE ON 3UN 4RACING THE CITYS LITERAL RISE FROM RAGS TO RICHES THE MUSEUM ALSO DISPLAYS A COLLECTION OF MORE THAN lVE THOUSAND FABRICS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD RANGING RIGHT BACK TO THE THIRD CENTURY )TS A VENUE FOR ONE OFF EXHIBITIONS ON TEXTILE OR FASHION RELATED THEMES TOO &IVE MINUTES WALK AWAY STANDS THE CITYS SIGNATURE BUILDING THE WHITE WALLED #ASTELLO DELL)MPERATORE !PRILn3EPT DAILY AMnPM nPM /CTn-ARCH AMnPM CLOSED 4UES + OR JOINT TICKET WITH -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO -USEO DI 0ITTURA -URALE + BUILT IN THE S FOR %MPEROR &RE DERICK )) AS A BASE FOR HIS REPRESENTATIVE IN THE CITY AND AS A WAY STATION FOR IMPERIAL PROGRESSES BETWEEN 'ERMANY AND HIS DOMAINS IN SOUTHERN )TALY AND 3ICILY 4HE CASTLE IS HEAVILY RESTORED AND EMPTY EXCEPT FOR THE ROOMS USED FOR TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS BUT YOU CAN WANDER AROUND THE RAMPARTS FOR VIEWS OVER THE OLD CITY AND ITS INDUSTRIAL SUBURBS 2OUND THE BACK IS 0RATOS MAJOR 2ENAISSANCE MONUMENT 'IULIANO DA 3ANGAL LOS CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA DELLE #ARCERI DAILY AMnNOON nPM BUILT TO HONOUR A MIRACULOUS TALKING IMAGE OF THE 6IRGIN THAT WAS PAINTED ON THE WALLS OF THE GAOL HERE n HENCE THE NAME h-ARY OF THE 0RISONSv 7ITH ITS PERFECT PROPORTIONS AND UNCLUTTERED LINES THE CHURCH IS A RATHER SEVERE DEMONSTRATION OF THE CORRECTNESS OF THE "RUNELLESCHIAN STYLE THOUGH THE EXTERIOR MAKES A DECORA TIVE GESTURE TOWARDS THE 2OMANESQUE WITH ITS HALF COMPLETED BANDS OF GREEN AND WHITE MARBLE 4HE INTERIOR IS LIGHTENED BY !NDREA DELLA 2OBBIAS TONDI OF THE %VANGELISTS AND CERAMIC FRIEZE 4WIN COLOURED MARBLE CLADDING ALSO FEATURES ON THE FACADE OF THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCESCO WHICH PRESENTS ITS BACK TO THE OTHER SIDE OF THE SQUARE )NSIDE ARE A COUPLE OF lNE MONUMENTS ON THE LEFT WALL OF THE SINGLE AISLE YOULL lND "ERNARDO 2OSSELLINOS WORN DOWN TOMB OF 'EMIGNANO )NGHIRAMI AND SET INTO THE mOOR NEAR THE HIGH ALTAR IS THE SLAB OF &RANCESCO DI -ARCO $ATINI 0RATOS MOST CELEBRATED CITIZEN 4HE SUBJECT OF )RIS /RIGOS CLASSIC STUDY 4HE -ERCHANT OF 0RATO $ATINI BECAME ONE OF %UROPES RICHEST MEN THROUGH HIS DEALINGS IN THE CLOTH TRADE AND PLAYED A CRUCIAL ROLE IN THE RATIONALIZATION OF ACCOUNTING METHODS ON HIS DEATH HIS OFlCES WERE FOUND TO CONTAIN TENS OF THOUSANDS OF SCRUPULOUSLY KEPT LEDGERS ALL INSCRIBED h4O 'OD AND PROlTv /FF THE CLOISTER THE #APPELLA -IGLIATORI HAS LOVELY FRESCOES OF 4HE ,IVES OF 3T !NTHONY !BBOT AND 3T -ATTHEW AND 4HE #RUCIlXION PAINTED IN THE S BY .ICCOLÛ DI 0IETRO 'ERINI $ATINIS HOUSE 0ALAZZO $ATINI IS A COUPLE OF MINUTES FROM THE CHURCH ON THE JUNCTION OF 6IA 2INASCELDA AND 6IA 3ER ,APO -AZZEI "UILT IN THE S THIS IS NOW HOME TO THE CITY ARCHIVES AND THE #EPPO A CHARITY ESTABLISHED BY $ATINI HIMSELF 4HE BARELY LEGIBLE FRESCO SKETCHES ON THE FACADE SHOW SCENES FROM HIS LIFE THE INTERIOR IS HEAVILY FRESCOED BUT IS CURRENTLY ACCESSIBLE TO THE PUBLIC ONLY WHEN THE BUILDING IS BEING USED AS AN EXHIBITION SPACE
0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE AND 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO
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! SHORT DISTANCE NORTH OF HERE $ATINI IS COMMEMORATED WITH A STATUE AND BRONZE RELIEFS AT THE CENTRE OF THE TRIM LITTLE 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE )NEVITABLY HE CROPS UP AGAIN AMONGST THE MYRIAD PORTRAITS OF LOCAL WORTHIES IN THE 1UADRERIA 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE FREE BY APPOINTMENT n RING !CROSS FROM THE 0ALAZZO SITS THE HUGE MEDIEVAL 0ALAZZO 0RETORIO WHOSE MUSEUM THE -USEO #IVICO HAS BEEN UNDERGOING RESTORATION FOR MANY YEARS IN THE MEANTIME ITS CONTENTS HAVE BEEN TRANSFERRED TO THE -USEO DI 0ITTURA -URALE SEE OVERLEAF 4HE WIDE AND LIVELY 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO A COUPLE OF BLOCKS FARTHER IN FORMS AN EFFECTIVE SPACE FOR THE 0ISAN 2OMANESQUE FACADE OF THE $UOMO -ONn3AT AMnNOON nPM 3UN OPEN UNTIL PM DISTINGUISHED BY ANOTHER !NDREA DELLA 2OBBIA TERRACOTTA OVER THE PORTAL AND BY $ONATELLOS AND -ICHELOZZOS BEAUTIFUL 0ULPIT OF THE 3ACRED 'IRDLE 4HIS UNIQUE ADDITION WAS CONSTRUCTED FOR THE CEREMONIAL DISPLAY OF THE GIRDLE OF THE -ADONNA A GARMENT ALLEGEDLY DROPPED INTO THE HANDS OF THE EVER INCREDULOUS APOSTLE 4HOMAS AT HER !SSUMP TION 4HE GIRDLE OR 3ACRO #INGOLO WAS SUPPOSEDLY BEQUEATHED BY 4HOMAS TO A PRIEST ONE OF WHOSE DESCENDANTS MARRIED A CRUSADER FROM 0RATO WHO IN TURN BROUGHT IT BACK TO HIS HOME TOWN IN 2EPLICAS HAVE REPLACED THE $ONATELLO RELIEFS OF GAMBOLLING CHILDREN THE ORIGINALS NOW BEING HOUSED IN THE CATHEDRAL MUSEUM 4HE GIRDLE ITSELF IS DISPLAYED lVE TIMES A YEAR ON %ASTER 3UNDAY -AY !UGUST 3EPTEMBER AND #HRISTMAS $AY 4HE STORY IS DETAILED IN THE CHAPEL IMMEDI ATELY LEFT OF THE ENTRANCE IN !GNOLO 'ADDIS FRESCO CYCLE OF 4HE ,EGEND OF THE (OLY 'IRDLE n n THOUGH SADLY ITS ALL BUT INVISIBLE BEHIND THE GRAT ING AS IS THE -ADONNA AND #HILD CARVED BY 'IOVANNI 0ISANO #LOSE BY IN THE LEFT AISLE IS ANOTHER lNE PIECE OF STONEWORK A CHALICE SHAPED PULPIT BY !NTONIO 2OSSELLINO AND -INO DA &IESOLE &ILIPPO ,IPPIS FAMOUS FRESCOES AROUND THE HIGH ALTAR WERE COMPLETED OVER A PERIOD OF FOURTEEN YEARS n AND DEPICT THE LIVES OF *OHN THE "APTIST AND 3T 3TEPHEN 4HESE ARE MARVELLOUSLY SENSU OUS PAINTINGS IN WHICH EVEN THE "APTISTS WIL DERNESS LOOKS ENTICING A WHISKED UP LANDSCAPE LIKE A CONFECTIONERS FANTASY %SPECIALLY DECADENT IS THE &EAST OF (EROD WHERE THE DECAPITATION SEEMS LIKE A 5 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO 0RATO
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REGRETTABLE INCIDENT THAT NEEDNT RUIN THE PARTY 4HERES A SCANDALOUS STORY TO THE CREATION OF THESE PICTURES DURING THE PERIOD OF THEIR CREATION ,IPPI n HIMSELF A FRIAR AT LEAST IN NAME n BECAME SO BESOTTED WITH A YOUNG NUN NAMED ,UCREZIA "UTI THAT HE ABDUCTED HER AS SHE WAS PREPARING TO ATTEND THE CEREMONY OF THE GIRDLE ,ATER TO BECOME THE MOTHER OF &ILIPPINO ,IPPI ,UCREZIA IS SAID TO HAVE BEEN THE MODEL FOR THE DANCING 3ALOME (ER LOVER ALSO DEPICTED HIMSELF AMONG THOSE MOURNING 3T 3TEPHEN HES THIRD FROM THE RIGHT &OR SEVERAL YEARS THE ,IPPI CYCLE HAS BEEN UNDERGOING RESTORATION BUT ITS POS SIBLE TO VIEW THE PICTURES AT CLOSE RANGE FROM THE RESTORERS SCAFFOLDING IF YOU BOOK A TICKET IN ADVANCE AT THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO SEE BELOW THE FEE IS + PER PERSON AND VISITS ARE CONDUCTED ON 3ATURDAYS AT AM AM PM AND PM PLUS 3UNDAYS AT PM AND PM 4HERES NO IMPEDIMENT TO A VIEWING OF THE SCENES FROM THE LIVES OF THE 6IRGIN AND 3T 3TEPHEN IN THE CHAPEL TO THE RIGHT OF THE HIGH ALTAR 3OME BELIEVE n THOUGH STUDIES OF THE UNDERPAINTING HAVE CAST DOUBT ON THE ATTRIBUTION n THAT THESE WERE BEGUN BY 0AOLO 5CCELLO IN A YEAR BEFORE HE WAS CALLED AWAY TO &LORENCE TO PAINT THE (AWKWOOD MONUMENT IN THE $UOMO HAVING lNISHED JUST THE VAULT AND THE LUNETTES OF 4HE "IRTH OF THE 6IRGIN 4HE "IRTH OF 3T 3TEPHEN AND 4HE 3TONING OF 3T 3TEPHEN THE LOWER PART OF THE CHAPEL IS LESS CONTROVERSIALLY ATTRIBUTED TO !NDREA DI 'IUSTO -AMZINI (OUSED ALONGSIDE THE $UOMO AROUND THE CLOISTER OF THE BISHOPS PALACE THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO -ON 7EDn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM + OR JOINT TICKET WITH #ASTELLO -USEO 0ITTURA -URALE + CONTAINS THE $ONATELLO PANELS FROM THE GREAT PULPIT THEY ARE BADLY CRACKED AND STAINED BY EXHAUST FUMES BUT THEIR SCULPTED PUTTI MAKE A SPRIGHTLY CONTRAST WITH THE LUMBERING LITTLE LADS ON -ASO DI "ARTOLOMEOS TINY SILVER 2ELIQUARY FOR THE 3ACRED 'IRDLE THE MUSEUMS OTHER MAIN TREASURE !LSO ON SHOW IS &ILIPPINO ,IPPIS PLUCKY 3T ,UCY UNPERTURBED BY THE GIGANTIC SWORD LODGED IN HER NECK AND THE MAGNIlCENT PAINTING THAT &ILIPPO ,IPPI PRODUCED TO DEMONSTRATE HIS SUITABILITY FOR THE FRESCO COMMISSION 4HE $EATH OF *EROME ! DOORWAY ON THE FAR SIDE OF THE CLOISTER OPENS INTO THE $UOMOS FRESCOED CRYPT BESIDE THE ALTAR IS THE HEAD OF ONE OF THE CITYS MAIN WELLS WHICH n AS THE INSCRIPTION RECORDS n WAS CHOKED WITH CORPSES BY THE INVADERS OF 4HE REST OF THE TOWN
! lVE MINUTE WALK WEST OF THE $UOMO IN THE EX MONASTERY ADJOINING THE MAINLY FOURTEENTH CENTURY CHURCH OF 3AN $OMENICO THE -USEO DI 0ITTURA -URALE -ON 7ED 4HURS 3UN AMnPM &RI 3AT AMnPM nPM + OR JOINT TICKET WITH -USEO DELL/PERA #ASTELLO + CURRENTLY HOUSES ONE OF THE TOWNS STAR ATTRACTIONS n &ILIPPO ,IPPIS -ADONNA DEL #EPPO 4HE PAINTING CONTAINS PORTRAITS OF THE lVE MEN WHO lNANCED THE PICTURE $ATINI COUGHED UP MORE THAN THE OTHER FOUR SO HES THE ONE DEPICTED LARGE SCALE !MONG THE OTHER ,IPPI PIECES ON SHOW IS A TENDER .ATIVITY WITH 33 'EORGE AND 6INCENT &ERRER THE -ADONNA AND #HRIST WERE PROBABLY MODELLED ON ,UCREZIA AND &ILIPPINO 4HERE ARE WORKS BY &ILIPPINO HERE AS WELL PLUS n AMONG A VARIETY OF FOURTEENTH CEN TURY ALTARPIECES n A PREDELLA BY "ERNARDO $ADDI NARRATING THE STORY OF THE 'IRDLE OF THE -ADONNA 4HE REST OF THE DISPLAY FEATURES A HOTCHPOTCH OF MINOR FRESCOES CULLED MOSTLY FROM CHURCHES IN AND AROUND 0RATO
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4URN RIGHT HERE FOR 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI WHERE YOULL lND THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY CHURCH OF 3AN $OMENICO DAILY AMnNOON nPM 3UN CLOSES PM REBUILT IN THE S AFTER TERRIBLE DAMAGE DURING THE WAR 3CRAPS OF MEDIEVAL FRESCOES REMAIN INSIDE BUT THE MOST ARRESTING FEATURE IS THE 2OSSELLINO BROTHERS TOMB OF THE TEACHER &ILIPPO ,AZZARI ON THE RIGHT NEAR THE DOOR )N THE CLOISTER ENTERED FROM THE AISLE THERE ARE REMNANTS OF A FRESCO OF 4HE *OURNEY OF THE -AGI BY "ENOZZO 'OZZOLI WHO DIED OF THE PLAGUE IN 0ISTOIA AND IS BURIED HERE /PPOSITE 3AN $OMENICO THE #APPELLA DEL 4AU -ONn3AT AMnPM FREE OR 3ANT!NTONIO !BATE PRESERVES A CHAOS OF MAINLY FOURTEENTH CENTURY FRES COES DEPICTING THE #REATION IN THE VAULT THE LIFE OF 3T !NTHONY !BBOT AND THE STORY OF THE 3ACRED 'IRDLE SEE P .EXT DOOR IN THE 0ALAZZO DEL 4AU IS THE -USEO -ARINO -ARINI -ONn3AT AMnPM + JOINT TICKET WITH -USEO #IVICO AND -USEO 2OSPIGLIOSI + SHOWING A SELECTION OF WORK BY 0ISTOIAS MOST FAMOUS MODERN SON -ARINI FOUND AN EARLY INmUENCE IN THE REAL ISM OF %TRUSCAN SARCOPHAGI EXPRESSED IN THE SCULPTURES OF HORSES AND RIDERS THAT HE CHURNED OUT THROUGHOUT HIS LIFE IN THE S HE DIVERSIlED INTO PORTRAITURE n SUBJECTS HERE INCLUDE 4HOMAS -ANN (ENRY -ILLER AND -ARC #HAGALL /N THE SAME SIDE OF THE #APPELLA DEL 4AU A COUPLE OF MINUTES WALK EAST LOOMS THE LATE THIRTEENTH CENTURY FACADE OF 3AN 0AOLO THE FRONT OF GREENISH STONE WITH DARK GREEN AND WHITE INLAYS IS TOPPED BY A STATUE OF 3T *AMES POS SIBLY BY /RCAGNA
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!RRIVING BY TRAIN OR BY BUS FROM &LORENCE YOURE LEFT JUST A COUPLE OF MINUTES WALK SOUTH OF THE HISTORIC CENTRE 6IALE 88 3ETTEMBRE POINTS THE WAY THROUGH THE CITY WALLS WHICH WERE RAISED IN THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY AND REINFORCED BY THE -EDICI 4HE INTERESTING PART OF THE CITY BEGINS ONE BLOCK NORTH OF ,ARGO 4REVISO AT THE JUNCTION WITH THE CENTRES WIDEST AVENUES #ORSO 'RAMSCI AND #ORSO &EDI
3AN 'IOVANNI &UORCIVITAS AND -ADONNA DELL5MILTÌ
!LL STREETS NORTH FROM 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI LINK WITH 6IA #AVOUR NOW THE MAIN STREET OF THE CITYS INNER CORE BUT ONCE THE SETTLEMENTS OUTER LIMIT n AS THE NAME OF THE MAJESTIC 3AN 'IOVANNI &UORCIVITAS hOUTSIDE THE WALLSv PROCLAIMS 4HE CHURCH DAILY AMnNOON nPM WAS FOUNDED IN THE EIGHTH CENTURY BUT REBUILT BETWEEN THE TWELFTH AND FOURTEENTH CENTURIES WHEN IT RECEIVED THE DAZZLING GREEN AND WHITE mANK THAT SERVES AS ITS FACADE 2ATHER THAN BEING THE FOCAL POINT OF THE WALL THE DOORWAY IS JUST A BRIEF INTERRUPTION IN THE INlNITELY REPEATABLE PATTERN OF THE TRIPLE ARCADE AND BANDS OF CONTRASTING MARBLE A COLOUR SCHEME ECHOED IN THE ORATORY ACROSS THE ALLEYWAY NOW A SHOP 4HE INTERIOR IS JUST AS REMARKABLE AS THIS IS ONE OF THREE 0ISTOIA CHURCHES DISTINGUISHED BY PULPITS THAT RANK AMONG THE lNEST EXAMPLES OF THE SOPHISTICATION OF 4USCAN SCULPTURE IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY 4HE PULPIT WAS CARVED IN BY A PUPIL OF .ICOLA 0ISANO WHOSE SON 'IOVANNI EXECUTED THE CARDINAL AND THEOLOGICAL VIRTUES ON THE HOLY WATER STOUP /N THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE CHURCH IS A LIFE SIZE TERRACOTTA 6ISITATION PROBABLY BY ,UCA DELLA 2OBBIA
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\ 0ISTOIA 5 3AN 'IOVANNI &UORCIVITAS 0ISTOIA
&ROM HERE A TURN UP 6IA 2OMA IS THE QUICKEST WAY INTO THE CENTRAL SQUARE BUT IF YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE YOU DONT MISS ANY OF 0ISTOIAS ARCHITECTURAL SIGHTS FOLLOW THE WESTWARD ARC OF 6IA #AVOUR INTO 6IA "UOZZI UNTIL YOU COME TO -ADONNA DELL5MILTÌ DAILY AMnNOON nPM 4HIS HANDSOME COLOSSUS WAS DESIGNED BY A PUPIL OF "RAMANTE AND lNISHED OFF BY 6ASARI WITH A DOME SO HEAVY THAT THE WALLS HAD TO BE REINFORCED TO PREVENT THE CHURCH FROM COLLAPSING 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO
4HE DIRECT PATH FROM 6IA #AVOUR TO 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO CROSSES THE MARKET SQUARE 0IAZZA DELLA 3ALA ! MARGINALLY MORE LONG WINDED ALTERNATIVE IS TO WALK THROUGH THE MINUSCULE 0IAZZA 3AN ,EONE A FEW BLOCKS EAST THIS WAS THE CENTRE OF THE ANCIENT ,OMBARD SETTLEMENT AND ITS STOCKY TOWER WAS LATER THE BOLT HOLE OF 6ANNI &UCCI 4HE MEDIEVAL COMPLEX OF THE 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO IS A SUPERB AND SLIGHTLY ECCENTRIC ENSEMBLE REVERSING THE NORMAL PRIORITIES OF THE )TALIAN CENTRAL SQUARE THE ORNATE BAPTISTERY LURKS IN A RECESS OFF ONE CORNER AND THE $UOMO FACES IT
4HE 'IOSTRA DELL/RSO
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\ 0ISTOIA
4HE EARLIEST FORERUNNER OF THE 'IOSTRA DELL/RSO WAS A PECULIAR RITUAL MENTIONED IN A CHRONICLE OF /N -ARCH OF THAT YEAR THE FEAST DAY OF 3AN &RANCESCA 2OMANA A DOZEN KNIGHTS FOUGHT A CEREMONIAL BATTLE AGAINST A BEAR DRESSED IN THE TOWNS COAT OF ARMS 4HE PRECISE FORM OF THIS JOUST CHANGED MANY TIMES OVER THE FOLLOWING CENTU RIES BUT SOME VERSION OF IT WAS FOUGHT EVERY YEAR UNTIL WHEN IT SEEMS SUDDENLY TO HAVE BEEN ABANDONED )N IT WAS REVIVED IN MORE HUMANE FORM AND NOW TAKES PLACE ON *ULY FEAST OF THE CITYS PATRON 3T *AMES )T FORMS THE CENTREPIECE OF THE FESTIVAL SEASON KNOWN AS THE ,UGLIO 0ISTOIESE 0ISTOIA *ULY 4HE FUN BEGINS WITH A PROCESSION OF AROUND THREE HUNDRED STANDARD BEARERS TRUM PETERS KNIGHTS HALBERDIERS AND ASSORTED COSTUMED EXTRAS FROM THE 0ORTA ,UCCHESE TO THE 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO 4HESE CHARACTERS REPRESENT THE VILLAGES AROUND 0ISTOIA THE CITYS CRAFTS AND TRADES AND THE FOUR DISTRICTS OF THE HISTORIC CENTRE %ACH OF THESE FOUR DISTRICTS IS REPRESENTED IN THE JOUST BY THREE KNIGHTS THEIR REGALIA BEARING THE HERALDIC EMBLEMS OF THE ,ION THE 3TAG THE 'RIFFON AND THE $RAGON (AVING LED THE PROCESSION INTO THE ARENA LAID OUT ON THE PIAZZA THE KNIGHTS ARE SEPARATED INTO PAIRS WHO THEN RIDE AGAINST EACH OTHER AROUND THE TRACK SCORING POINTS BY HITTING THE TWO HIGHLY STYLIZED hBEARSv SET ON BALES ON OPPOSITE SIDES OF THE CIRCUIT 0OINTS ARE AWARDED ACCORDING TO WHICH PARTS OF THE TARGET ARE HIT WITH THE LANCE AND AT THE END OF THE DAY TWO PRIZES ARE AWARDED n TO THE HIGHEST SCORING DISTRICT AND THE HIGH EST SCORING KNIGHT 4HE GIOSTRA IS ALWAYS A SELL OUT TO BE SURE OF TICKETS YOU SHOULD CONTACT THE REGIONAL TOURIST OFlCE AT LEAST A MONTH IN ADVANCE
TURNING ITS SPARSELY ADORNED SIDE TO THE OPEN SPACE AND LEAVING THE HUGE CAM PANILE AND MONOLITHIC CIVIC BUILDINGS TO TAKE THE LIMELIGHT 4HERES SOMETHING ODD ABOUT THE EXPANSE OF THE PIAZZA TOO AS IF IT WERE CONCEIVED FOR A TOWN CONSIDERABLY LARGER THAN PRESENT DAY 0ISTOIA /NCE A YEAR THOUGH THE SQUARE IS PACKED TO CAPACITY FOR THE 'IOSTRA DELL/RSO SEE BOX ABOVE 0ISTOIAS ANSWER TO THE MEDIEVAL SHENANIGANS OF 3IENAS 0ALIO 4HE $UOMO
)F YOUVE COME FROM 0ISA OR ,UCCA THE STYLE OF 0ISTOIAS $UOMO THE #ATTEDRALE DI 3AN :ENO DAILY AMnPM nPM WILL BE IMMEDIATELY FAMILIAR WITH ITS TIERED ARCADES AND DISTINCTIVE 0ISAN 2OMANESQUE DECORATION OF STRIPED BLACK AND WHITE MARBLE 3ET INTO THIS SOBERLY RElNED FRONT IS A TUNNEL VAULT PORTICO OF BRIGHT TERRACOTTA TILES BY !NDREA DELLA 2OBBIA CREATOR ALSO OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD ABOVE THE DOOR 4HE INTERIOR HAS AN OUTSTANDING ARRAY OF SCULPTURAL PIECES ONE OF WHICH IS PART OF THE ENTRANCE WALL n A MARVELLOUS FONT DESIGNED BY "ENEDETTO DA -AIANO SHOWING INCIDENTS FROM THE LIFE OF THE "APTIST #LOSE BY ON THE WALL OF THE RIGHT AISLE IS THE MONUMENT TO $ANTES FRIEND THE DIPLOMAT TEACHER AND POET #INO DA 0ISTOIA IT IS SAID THAT "OCCACCIO IS ONE OF THE PUPILS TO WHOM HES SHOWN LECTURING IN THE BOTTOM PANEL *UST BEYOND THIS MONUMENT IS THE #APPELLA DI 3AN *ACOPO + NOW INCORPORATED INTO THE CATHEDRAL MUSEUM WHICH BOASTS ONE OF THE RICHEST PIECES OF SILVERWORK TO BE SEEN IN )TALY THE !LTARPIECE OF 3T *AMES 7EIGHING ALMOST A TON AND POPULATED WITH lGURES IT WAS BEGUN IN AND COMPLETED IN THE lFTEENTH CENTURY WHEN "RUNELLESCHI CAST THE TWO HALF lGURES OF PROPHETS ON THE LEFT HAND SIDE 4HE LENGTH OF TIME TAKEN ON THE WORK IS CLEAR IF YOU COMPARE THE SCENES ON THE FRONT WITH THE BOLDER lGURES IN THE SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF 3T *AMES ON THE LEFT HAND mANK WHERE AN EXTRA SUPPLENESS AND VITALITY IS
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\ 0ISTOIA
EVIDENT 4HE ARTIST RESPONSIBLE FOR THESE LATTER PANELS WAS A CERTAIN ,EONARDO DI 3ER 'IOVANNI WHO IMMEDIATELY AFTER COMPLETING THEM WAS GIVEN THE COMMIS SION TO BEGIN ANOTHER REMARKABLE PIECE OF SILVERWORK n THE ALTARPIECE NOW IN &LORENCES -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO )N THE CHAPEL TO THE LEFT OF THE HIGH ALTAR IS !NTONIO 2OSSELLINOS BUST OF "ISHOP $ONATO DE -EDICI AND THE SO CALLED -ADONNA DI 0IAZZA BEGUN BY 6ERROCCHIO AND lNISHED BY ,ORENZO DI #REDI OFTEN KEPT UNDER WRAPS 6ERROCCHIO WITH HIS WORKSHOP WAS ALSO RESPONSIBLE FOR THE mURRIED TOMB OF #ARDINAL &ORTEGUERRI IN THE LEFT AISLE BY THE DOOR 4HE $UOMOS ADJACENT #AMPANILE WAS ORIGINALLY A ,OMBARD WATCHTOWER THEN WAS SPRUCED UP WITH 2OMANESQUE ARCADES IN THE TWELFTH CENTURY AND A 'OTHIC TURRET IN THE SIXTEENTH THE SWALLOWTAIL CRENELLATIONS NEAR THE SUMMIT GIVE AWAY THE TOWNS OLD 'HIBELLINE LOYALTIES !ROUND 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO
3IMILARLY YOU HAVE TO BOOK AT THE TOURIST OFlCE IN ORDER TO SEE INSIDE THE PARTLY CLAD 0ALAZZO DEI 6ESCOVI NOW HOME OF THE SMALL -USEO DI 3AN :ENO GUIDED TOURS 4UES 4HURS &RI AMnPM nPM + WHERE THE CHIEF EXHIBIT IS 'HIBERTIS RELIQUARY OF 3T *AMES 4HE BASEMENT HAS AN EVEN MORE MODEST ARCHEOLOGICAL COLLECTION WITH RELICS FROM THE 2OMAN SETTLEMENT /PPOSITE IS THE DAPPER 'OTHIC "APTISTERY 4UESn3UN AMnPM DESIGNED BY 'IOVANNI 0ISANO AND COMPLETED IN THE MID FOURTEENTH CENTURY BY #ELLINO DI .ESE CREATOR OF THE $UOMOS MONUMENT TO #INO DA 0ISTOIA #OMMERCIAL ART SHOWS SOMETIMES lLL THE SPACE AROUND THE FONT 4HOUGH ITS INTERIOR IS CLOSED TO THE PUBLIC YOU CAN TAKE A LOOK AT THE COURTYARD OF THE 0ALAZZO DEL 0ODESTÌ OR 0ALAZZO 0RETORIO THE LAW COURT BUILDING TO THE SIDE OF THE BAPTISTERY &ROM THE STONE BENCHES HALF SHELTERED BY THE PORTICO THE 0ISTOIAN JUDGES USED TO PRONOUNCE SENTENCES NOTORIOUS FOR THEIR SEVERITY A GRIMLY HUMOROUS SPECIALITY WAS TO SENTENCE THE GUILTY TO BE ELEVATED TO THE RANKS OF THE NOBILITY n THUS DEPRIVING THEM OF ANY CIVIC RIGHTS UNDER THE TOWNS REPUBLICAN CONSTITUTION /N THE FAR SIDE OF THE SQUARE THE mAKING PALE LIMESTONE FACADE OF THE 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE BEARS A SMALL BASALT HEAD THAT MAY BE A PORTRAIT OF THE -OORISH KING OF -ALLORCA WHOM THE 0ISTOIESE DEFEATED IN THE TWELFTH CEN TURY LOCAL FOLKLORE PREFERS TO INTERPRET IT AS THE IMAGE OF A MAN WHO BETRAYED THE CITY TO THE ARMY OF #ASTRUCCIO #ASTRACANI IN WHICH IS ABOUT THE TIME THE HEAD WAS MOUNTED HERE THOUGH IN ALL LIKELIHOOD IT WENT UP SEV ERAL YEARS BEFORE THE CITY FELL 4HE BUILDING CONTAINS THE -USEO #IVICO 4UESn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM + JOINT TICKET WITH -USEO -ARINI AND -USEO 2OSPIGLIOSI + WHERE THE CUSTOMARY WELTER OF RUN OF THE MILL MEDIEVAL AND 2ENAISSANCE PIECES IS COUNTERWEIGHTED BY AN IMPRESSIVE SHOWING OF "AROQUE HYPERACTIVITY n INCLUDING A COUPLE OF HIDEOUS BATTLE SCENES BY THE EVIDENTLY DISTURBED #ICCIO .APOLETANO !DJOINING THE MUSEUM IS A DISPLAY SAME HOURS TICKET DEVOTED TO 0ISTOIA BORN ARCHITECT 'IOVANNI -ICHELUCCI 4HE 0ALAZZO 2OSPIGLIOSI IN 2IPA DEL 3ALE DOWN THE RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THE 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE HOUSES THE COMBINED -USEO $IOCESANO AND -USEO 2OSPIGLIOSI 4UESn3AT AMnPM nPM PLUS SAME HOURS ON ND 3UN OF MONTH + JOINT TICKET WITH -USEO #IVICO AND -USEO -ARINI + WHERE MUCH OF THE SPACE IS OCCUPIED BY CHALICES CENSERS AND CROSSES MEDIOCRE PAINTINGS AND MISCELLANEOUS PIECES OF FURNITURE MANY OF THEM BEQUEATHED BY 0OPE #LEMENT )8
4HE NORTHERN QUARTERS
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\ 0ISTOIA
!T THE BACK OF THE 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE 6IA 0ACINI IS THE OBVIOUS ROUTE TO TAKE TO EXPLORE THE NORTHERN PART OF THE TOWN !CROSS THIS ROAD ON 0IAZZA 3AN "AR TOLOMEO IS THE !BBAZIA DI 3AN "ARTOLOMEO IN 0ANTANO h3T "ARTHOLOMEW IN THE 3WAMPv NAMED AFTER THE MARSHY GROUND ON WHICH IT WAS RAISED IN THE EIGHTH CENTURY 4HE SEMI COMPLETE FACADE IS AS APPEALING AS ANY OF THE CITYS MORE POLISHED FRONTS AND INSIDE DAILY AMnNOON nPM THERES THE EARLIEST OF 0ISTOIAS TRIO OF REMARKABLE PULPITS %XECUTED IN BY 'UIDO DA #OMO AND RECONSTRUCTED FROM ITS DISMANTLED PARTS ITS FAR LESS SOPHISTICATED THAN THE OTHER TWO COMPRISING A RECTANGULAR BOX WHOSE PRINCIPAL SCENES ARE lLLED WITH lGURES ARRAYED IN LEVEL RANKS LIKE A CROWD IN A STADIUM 4HE MOST PUBLICIZED EPISODE OF THE 0ISTOIA TOWNSCAPE IS NOT A CHURCH BUT A HOS PITAL IN A SQUARE AT THE END OF 6IA 0ACINI n THE /SPEDALE DEL #EPPO WHICH TAKES ITS NAME FROM THE HOLLOWED OUT TREE STUMP CEPPO IN WHICH ALMS WERE TRADITIONALLY COLLECTED %STABLISHED IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY IT WAS EMBELLISHED IN THE lFTEENTH WITH A PORTICO LIKE THE ONE "RUNELLESCHI DESIGNED FOR THE )NNOCENTI IN &LORENCE %MBLAZONED ALONG ITS LENGTH IS THE FEATURE THAT MAKES IT FAMOUS 'IOVANNI DELLA 2OBBIAS PAINTED TERRACOTTA FRIEZE OF THE 4HEOLOGICAL 6IRTUES AND THE 3EVEN 7ORKS OF -ERCY #OMPLETED IN THE EARLY SIXTEENTH CENTURY IT IS A STARTLINGLY COLOURFUL PANOPLY OF 2ENAISSANCE TYPES AND COSTUME PILGRIMS PRISONERS THE SICK THE DEAD ! COUPLE OF MINUTES WALK OVER TO THE WEST THE TWELFTH CENTURY 3ANT!NDREA DAILY AMnPM nPM HAS A TYPICALLY 0ISAN FACADE WITH A PAIR OF 2OMANESQUE LIONS AND A PANEL OF 4HE *OURNEY OF THE -AGI STUCK ONTO IT 4HE MURKY AND CORRIDOR SLIM AISLE CONTAINS THE THIRD AND GREATEST OF THE PULPITS CARVED IN BY 'IOVANNI 0ISANO IT IS BASED ON HIS FATHERS DESIGN FOR THE 0ISA BAPTISTERY PULPIT AND ONLY MARGINALLY LESS ELABORATE THAN HIS OWN SLIGHTLY LATER WORK IN 0ISA CATHEDRAL )T SHOWS SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF #HRIST AND THE ,AST *UDGEMENT THE lGURES CARVED IN SUCH DEEP RELIEF THAT THEY SEEM TO BE SURGING OUT OF A LIMITLESS DEPTH 'IOVANNI WAS THE lRST TO APPRECIATE THE GLORY OF HIS ACHIEVEMENT .ICOLA 0ISANO HAD BOASTED OF BEING THE GREATEST LIVING SCULPTOR AND 'IOVANNIS INSCRIPTION BRAGS THAT HE HAS NOW SURPASSED HIS FATHER 4HE CHURCH ALSO HAS A SECOND PIECE BY 'IOVANNI n THE #RUCIlX MOUNTED ON THE WALL OF THE RIGHT AISLE 4HE PLAINEST OF THE CITYS CHURCHES THE &RANCISCANS 3AN &RANCESCO AL 0RATO DAILY AMnNOON nPM IS A LITTLE FARTHER TO THE WEST ON THE EDGE OF ONE OF THE MAIN BUS TERMINALS 4ATTERED FOURTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES ARE PRESERVED IN THE SINGLE NAVE AND SOME HEALTHIER SPECIMENS ADORN THE CHAPELS AT THE EAST END WHERE THERES A lNE 4RIUMPH OF !UGUSTINE IN THE CHAPEL TO THE LEFT OF THE HIGH ALTAR 4O THE SIDE OF THE CHURCH THERES AN UNUSUAL MEMORIAL TO !LDO -ORO THE )TALIAN PRIME MINISTER KILLED BY THE 2ED "RIGADES ON -AY THE BRONZE PLAQUES ARE IMPRINTED WITH THE NEWSPAPER HEADLINES FROM THE DAY HIS BODY WAS FOUND
&ATTORIA DI #ELLE 3OME KM EAST OF 0ISTOIA AT 3ANTOMATO THE &ATTORIA DI #ELLE HOLDS A REMARK ABLE PRIVATE ART COLLECTION ESTABLISHED IN TO GIVE )TALY AN INTERNATIONAL FORUM FOR CONTEMPORARY ART COMPARABLE TO SUCH CENTRES AS THE +RÚLLER -àLLER IN THE .ETHERLANDS %VERYTHING HERE IN THE ROOMS AND PARK OF THE 6ILLA #ELLE COULD BE DESCRIBED AS ENVIRONMENTAL ART THE LARGE SCALE OUTDOOR PIECES ARE CONCEIVED AS INTERACTIONS WITH THE NATURAL WORLD WHILE THE SMALLER INSTALLATIONS INSIDE TAKE THEIR CUE FROM THE ENCLOSING SPACE OF THE ROOMS !RTISTS FROM ALL OVER %UROPE AND THE 5NITED 3TATES HAVE CONTRIBUTED TO THE SCULPTURE PARK DEVISING A VARIETY OF RESPONSES TO ITS WOODLANDS AND GRASSY SLOPES AND TO THE WIDER CULTURAL ENVIRONMENT OF 4USCANY !LICE !YCOCKS STEEL
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\ -ONTECATINI AND -ONSUMMANO
CONSTRUCTIONS RECALL SUCH 2ENAISSANCE MECHANISMS AS THE ASTROLABE BUT ARE BUILT ON A SCALE TO ECHO THE CURVES AND ANGLES OF THE LANDSCAPE ! LABYRINTH OF POLISHED GREEN AND WHITE MARBLE BY 2OBERT -ORRIS RECALLS THE 2OMANESQUE CHURCHES OF THE REGION AND IS SO PERFECTLY PLACED ON THE GRADIENT OF THE HILL THAT IT SEEMS TO BE A SINGLE MASS OF STONE UNTIL YOU COME TO THE ENTRANCE !N ARTIlCIAL STREAM AND GROTTO LAID OUT IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY HAS BEEN USED BY !NNE AND 0ATRICK 0OIRIER TO EVOKE THE EPIC STRUGGLE BETWEEN :EUS AND THE 4ITANS WITH STEEL LIGHTNING mASHES AND FRAGMENTS OF HUGE MARBLE HEADS LITTERING THE WATER COURSE )N HI TECH CONTRAST $ENNIS /PPENHEIMS MASSIVE CONTRAPTION OF STEEL TOWERS IMMOVABLE PULLEYS AND FUNCTIONLESS WIRES LOOKS LIKE A VISUAL PUN ON THE SKI LIFTS OF THE WINTER RESORTS NORTH OF 0ISTOIA -OST OF THE INSTALLATIONS DATE FROM THE INAUGURAL YEAR BUT NEW PIECES ARE BEING COMMISSIONED ALL THE TIME MAINTAINING THE &ATTORIA DI #ELLES STATUS AS ONE OF THE MOST VITAL ART CENTRES IN THE COUNTRY 4HE CENTRE IS OPEN FROM !PRIL TO 3EPTEMBER AND VISITORS MUST lRST WRITE FOR AN APPOINTMENT TO &ATTORIA DI #ELLE 3ANTOMATO DI 0ISTOIA 4HE ENTRANCE GATE IS NOT SIGNPOSTED BUT RATHER SIGNALLED BY A HUGE SPHERICAL METAL RIBCAGE CONSTRUCTION BY !LBERTO "URRI
0RACTICALITIES 0ISTOIAS CENTRAL TOURIST OFlCE IS AT 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM WWWCOMUNEPISTOIAIT 4HE CITYS LOW TOURIST PROlLE MEANS A DEARTH OF ACCOMMODATION n SO IF YOU PLAN TO STAY PHONE AHEAD 4HERES A SINGLE ONE STAR HOTEL THE CLEAN AND FRIENDLY !LBERGO !UTISTI 6IALE 0ACINOTTI AND THERES ONLY ONE TWO STAR WITHIN THE WALLS THE !LBERGO &IRENZE 6IA #URTATONE E -ONTANARA WWW HOTEL lRENZEIT #ENTRAL ALTERNATIVES ARE THE THREE STAR ,EON "IANCO 6IA 0ANCIATICHI WWWHOTELLEONBIANCOIT OR THE 0ATRIA 6IA #RISPI n WWWPATRIAHOTELCOM )F YOU HAVE YOUR OWN TRANSPORT YOU COULD STAY AT THE EXTREMELY WELCOMING AND WELL PRICED 6ILLA 6ANNINI WWWVOLPE UVAIT KM TO THE NORTH OF 0ISTOIA IN THE VILLAGE OF 6ILLA DI 0ITECCIO ITS A TRANQUIL FAMILY RUN COUNTRY HOUSE WITH AN OUTSTANDING RESTAURANT )N THE CENTRE OF TOWN THERES AN EXCELLENT OSTERIA IN 6IA DEL ,ASTRONE OFF 0IAZ ZA DELLA 3ALA ,A "OTTE'AIA AT NO CLOSED 3UN LUNCH -ON WHICH HAS A lNE RANGE OF CROSTINI AND BRUSCHETTE PLUS A FEW MORE SUBSTANTIAL OFFERINGS THE MENá DEGUSTIAZIONE IS VERY GOOD VALUE AND A TERRIlC WINE LIST 6ERY CLOSE BY AT NO ,O 3TORNO OPEN FOR LUNCH EVERY DAY PLUS 7EDn3AT EVENINGS SERVES ROBUST AND GOOD VALUE LOCAL DISHES AND IS SO POPULAR THAT RESERVATIONS ARE ADVISABLE 4HERES ALSO A STRAIGHTFORWARD INEXPENSIVE AND GOOD QUALITY 4USCAN MENU AT 3AN *ACOPO 6IA #RISPI CLOSED -ON EVE 4UES ,EAVING 0ISTOIA ,AZZI BUSES FOR &LORENCE AND 0RATO RUN FROM THE TRAIN STA TION #/0)4 BUSES BOUND FOR %MPOLI WHERE YOU CAN ALSO CHANGE FOR 6INCI LEAVE FROM 0IAZZA 3AN &RANCESCO 4HE ROUTE TO 6INCI GOES OVER BEAUTIFUL -ONTE !LBANO AND ALLOWS A LOOP TO &LORENCE OR 0ISA IF YOU SET OUT EARLY IN THE DAY
-ONTECATINI AND -ONSUMMANO
+NOWN AS THE 6ALDINIEVOLE 6ALLEY OF -ISTS THE AREA TO THE WEST OF 0ISTOIA IS A REGION OF SUBTERRANEAN STREAMS AND SPRINGS THAT NOW HARBOURS ONE OF )TALYS MAIN CONCENTRATIONS OF SPA TOWNS !S WITH THE 'ERMAN SPAS SUCH RESORTS AS A RULE DONT HAVE THE SAME AURA OF SOCIAL EXCLUSIVITY AS THEY DO IN "RITAIN BUT THE
-ONTECATINI 4ERME
\ -ONTECATINI AND -ONSUMMANO
.O SPA IN )TALY HAS A GLOSSIER REPUTATION THAN -/.4%#!4).) 4%2-% AS CAN BE GAUGED FROM THE FACT THAT THE LIKES OF 'UCCI AND 'IANFRANCO &ERRE lND IT PROlTABLE TO MAINTAIN OUTLETS HERE n AND IT WAS IN -ONTECATINI THAT &ELLINI lLMED THE SPA SCENES IN ! LEAFY GRID OF INDISTINGUISHABLE APARTMENT BLOCKS AND VILLAS WHERE IT SEEMS TO BE ETERNALLY SIESTA TIME SURROUND THE CENTRAL 0ARCO DELLE 4ERME A TEN MINUTE WALK FROM THE TRAIN STATION WHERE EACH OF THE NINE SULPHATE SPRINGS IS ENCASED IN ITS OWN SEPARATE BUILDING &RONTING THE PIAZZA AT THE EDGE OF THE PARK IS THE POMPOUS 4ERME ,EOPOLDINE A SHRINE TO THE HEALING PROPERTIES OF MUD BATHS .ORTH OF THIS IS THE 4ETTUCCIO DISCOVERED IN THE FOUR TEENTH CENTURY BUT NOT EXPLOITED TO THE FULL UNTIL 'RAND $UKE ,EOPOLDO ) GAVE IT THE WORKS IN THE EIGHTEENTH )NSIDE !RT .OUVEAU PAINTINGS AND CERAMICS CREATE A SUITABLY SYBARITIC ENVIRONMENT IN WHICH TO COMPOSE YOUR LETTERS IN THE SPA CAFÏ OR IMBIBE THE ACRID WATER !CROSS THE WAY THE 0ALLADIAN HOME OF THE 2EGINA SPRING SUGGESTS MORE ASTRINGENT REGIMES WHILE AT THE BACK OF THE PARK THE MOCK MEDIEVAL 4ORRETTA EMBODIES THE STRAIGHTFORWARDLY ESCAPIST ELEMENT OF ALL SPA RESORTS !LL THESE SPAS ARE OPEN FROM -AY TO /CTOBER THERES ONE ESTABLISH MENT THE HYBRID .EO 2ENAISSANCE MODERNIST %XCELSIOR THATS OPEN ALL YEAR $ETAILS OF THE TREATMENTS AT OFFER AT THE %XCELSIOR AND ITS SIBLINGS ARE AVAILABLE AT THE TOURIST OFlCE SEE BELOW 4HE NON THERMAL DELIGHTS OF -ONTECATINI CAN ALL BE SAMPLED BY FOLLOWING 6IALE $IAZ WHICH CURVES ROUND THE NORTH SIDE OF THE PARK (ERE ACROSS THE ROAD FROM THE 2EGINA SPA YOULL lND THE !CCADEMIA D!RTE -ONn3AT nPM FREE A MISHMASH OF GIFTS FROM ILLUSTRIOUS GUESTS SUCH AS 6ERDI WHO COMPOSED /TELLO WHILE STAYING IN -ONTECATINI RElNING THE SCORE ON THE PIANO THATS KEPT HERE 4EN MINUTES WALK BEYOND IS THE RELATIVELY UNKEMPT VERDURE OF ,E 0ANTE RAIE A WOODED PARK WITH A SWIMMING POOL AND DEER RESERVE (ALFWAY BETWEEN THE GALLERY AND THE WOODS IS THE ONLY INEXPENSIVE WAY OF HAVING FUN IN -ONTECATINI THE FUNICULAR TO -ONTECATINI !LTO A FEW HUNDRED METRES ABOVE THE SPA !PRILn/CT DAILY EVERY MIN + RETURN IF YOU DRIVE ITS A lVE KILOMETRE HAUL 4HE ORIGINAL -ONTECATINI SETTLEMENT HERE OFFERS EXCEL LENT VIEWS ESPECIALLY OF -ONSUMMANO AND IN SUMMER THE TINY 0IAZZA 'IUSTI BECOMES A PLEASANT OUTDOOR EXTENSION OF ITS CAFÏS AND PIZZERIE )F YOU WANT TO GET OUT OF THE SUN FOR A WHILE THERES THE STALACTITE HEAVY 'ROTTA -AONA !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnNOON nPM + A COUPLE OF KILOMETRES BELOW -ONTECATINI !LTO ITS THE ONLY CAVE IN )TALY THAT CONTAINS TWO SEPARATE SPRINGS
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TWO BIG CENTRES OF THE 6ALDINIEVOLE -ONTECATINI 4ERME AND -ONSUMMANO 4ERME ARE NONETHELESS UNLIKELY TO TEMPT YOU TO LINGER OVERNIGHT THOUGH YOU MIGHT WANT TO STOP FOR A COUPLE OF HOURS JUST TO SAMPLE THE PECULIAR "ELLE %POQUE AMBIENCE !S LONG AS YOURE NOT PASSING THROUGH SOME TIME BETWEEN .OVEMBER AND %ASTER THAT IS BECAUSE IN WINTER THESE PLACES ARE COMATOSE &LOR ENCE TO 6IAREGGIO TRAINS STOP AT -ONTECATINI BUT -ONSUMMANO IS ONLY REALLY WORTH A CALL IF YOURE DRIVING
0RACTICALITIES
4HE TOURIST OFlCE 6IALE 6ERDI -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM SUM MER ALSO 3UN AMnNOON WWWTERMEMONTECATINIIT HAS FULL DETAILS OF -ONTECATINIS PLENTIFUL ACCOMMODATION THERE ARE AROUND THREE HUNDRED PLACES TO STAY PREDOMINANTLY TOP BRACKET BUT WITH ABOUT THIRTY ONE STAR HOTELS -OST OF -ONTECATINIS RESTAURANTS ARE ATTACHED TO THE POSH HOTELS OF THE INDEPENDENT PLACES THE BEST ARE %NOTECA DA 'IOVANNI 6IA 'ARIBALDI
CLOSED -ON !UG AND ,A 2UGHETTA IN 0IAZZA 'IUSTI -ONTECATINI !LTO CLOSED 4UES BOTH OF WHICH WILL SET YOU BACK AROUND + A HEAD .EARLY AS GOOD AND APPRECIABLY LESS EXPENSIVE IS THE "OLOGNESE RESTAURANT PIZZERIA #ORSO -ATTEOTTI CLOSED -ON
-ONSUMMANO 4ERME !2/5.$ & , /2% .# %
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-ONTECATINIS SISTER SPA -/.35--!./ 4%2-% A FEW KILOMETRES SOUTH EAST HAS ITS OWN SPECIALITY ACT THE STEAM CAVE 4HE FAMILY OF THE POET 'IUSEPPE 'IUSTI n WHO WAS BORN HERE IN n SET THE BUSINESS IN MOTION WHEN THEY DISCOVERED A mOODED CAVE lLLED WITH MINERAL SATURATED STEAM $IVIDED INTO CHAMBERS TAGGED )NFERNO 0URGATORIO AND 0ARADISO THE 'ROTTA 'IUSTI !PRILn/CT ON THE EASTERN OUTSKIRTS IS STILL THE TOWNS BIG DRAW n HALF LUXURY HOTEL HALF MEDICAL CENTRE #OMPETITION IS PROVIDED BY THE ARTIlCIAL 'ROTTA 0ARLANTI -AYn/CT TO THE NORTH WHOSE VAPOURS ARE ALLEGEDLY EVEN MORE EFlCACIOUS 4HE OLD TOWN OF -ONSUMMANO !LTO KM FROM THE CENTRE UP A RELENTLESSLY STEEP AND NARROW ROAD IS NOW LITTLE MORE THAN A TWELFTH CENTURY CHURCH AND A FEW VERY RUINED CASTLE RUINS THE PANORAMA IS SPECTACULAR THOUGH WITH THE MASSED GLASSHOUSES OF 0ESCIA CATCHING THE SUN LIKE A LAKE
%MPOLI AND AROUND 4HE . TRACKING THE !RNO WEST OF &LORENCE IS AS DISPIRITING AS THE ROAD THAT FOLLOWS THE RIVER TO THE EAST "USY AND SLOW ITS STRUNG WITH DRAB TOWNS INDUS TRIAL SITES MEGASTORES AND WAREHOUSES AND n APART FROM A HANDFUL OF ATTRACTIONS IN %MPOLI n IS ONLY WORTH BOTHERING WITH FOR THE DIVERSIONS TO BE FOUND OFF IT 4HE MOST POPULAR OF THESE BY FAR ARE TO BE FOUND IN 6INCI BIRTHPLACE OF ,EONARDO BUT THE DIMINUTIVE HILL TOWN OF 3AN -INIATO IS A MORE SUBSTANTIAL ATTRACTION
%MPOLI
4HE MANUFACTURING TOWN OF %-0/,) PURVEYOR OF GLASS AND RAINCOATS TO THE NATION IS A MAJOR JUNCTION OF ROAD AND RAIL ROUTES BETWEEN &LORENCE 0ISA THE COAST AND 3IENA AND THUS MIGHT WELL BE A PLACE YOULL lND YOURSELF PASSING THROUGH -OST PEOPLE LIMIT THEIR EXPLORATION TO A CHANGE OF PLATFORMS AT THE TRAIN STATION OR A CONFUSED TOUR OF THE ONE WAY ROAD SYSTEM )F YOU WANT TO SPARE TIME FOR A QUICK LOOK AROUND HEAD FOR THE CENTRAL 0IAZZA &ARINATA DEGLI 5BERTI NAMED AFTER THE COMMANDER OF THE 'HIBELLINE ARMY OF 3IENA WHICH DEFEATED THE &LORENTINE 'UELPHS AT -ONTAPERTI IN HES REVERED NOT FOR HIS MILITARY PROWESS BUT FOR HIS ADVOCACY AT THE hPARLIAMENT OF %MPOLIv WHEN HE DISSUADED HIS FOLLOWERS FROM WRECKING &LORENCE 4HE GREEN AND WHITE #OLLEGIATA ON THE SQUARE WAS FOUNDED AS FAR BACK AS THE lFTH CENTURY ITS LOWER PORTION IS THE MOST WESTERLY EXAMPLE OF &LORENTINE 2OMANESQUE ARCHITECTURE THE TOP A POSTWAR RECONSTRUCTION OF A NINETEENTH CENTURY IMITATION !DJACENT IS THE -USEO #OLLEGIATA ENTERED FROM 0IAZZETTA DELLA 0ROPOSITORA 4UESn3UN AMnNOON nPM + JOINT TICKET WITH THE -USEO ,EONARDIANO IN 6INCI AND THE CERAMICS MUSEUM IN NEARBY -ONTELUPO + (IGHLIGHTS OF THE COLLECTION OF SCULPTURE AND PAINTING ARE A COUPLE OF TRIPTYCHS BY ,ORENZO -ONACO A SMALL -AESTÌ ATTRIBUTED TO &ILIPPO ,IPPI A SUPERB -ASOLINO 0IETÌ SCULPTURES BY "ERNARDO 2OSSELLINO AND -INO DA &IESOLE AND ,ORENZO DI "ICCIS 3T .ICHOLAS OF 4OLENTINO 3AVING %MPOLI FROM THE 0LAGUE FEATURING A VIEW OF THE TOWN
&ROM THE TIME OF #OSIMO ) TO THE END OF THE DYNASTY THE -EDICI ADMINISTERED THEIR ESTATES IN THIS NORTHERN PART OF 4USCANY FROM THE VILLA AT #%22%4/ '5)$) DAILY AMnPM CLOSED ND RD -ON OF MONTH + KM NORTH WEST OF %MPOLI AND SERVED BY #/0)4 BUS (AVING CONVERTED THIS FORMER CASTLE INTO SOMETHING MORE DOMESTIC AND HAVING GOT "UONTALENTI TO BUILD THE HUGE APPROACH RAMPS THAT REMAIN THE VILLAS MOST DISTINCTIVE FEATURE THE CLAN SET ABOUT MAKING IT THE FOCUS OF RURAL LIFE IN THE %MPOLI DISTRICT THEY INSTITUTED A WEEKLY FAIR HERE WITH COMPULSORY ATTENDANCE FOR THE LOCAL PEASANTS 4HE VILLA IS A PLAIN BOX OF A HOUSE AND THE CHURCH THAT #OSIMO BUILT NEXT DOOR IS NO MORE EXCITING n THOUGH THERES A GOOD VIEW FROM THE TOP OF THE RAMPS WITH &RED ERICK ))S TOWER AT 3AN -INIATO SEE P STANDING OUT IN THE MIDDLE DISTANCE 5NLESS YOURE A BLOODSPORTS ENTHUSIAST IN WHICH CASE THE #ERRETO 'UIDI HUNTING MUSEUM MAY BE OF INTEREST THE MAIN POINT OF VISITING THE INTERIOR IS TO SEE THE GALLERY OF -EDICI PORTRAITS AND EVEN THESE ARE LESS THAN SCINTILLATING /NE SEC TION IS ENTITLED h5NHAPPY MARRIAGES AMONG THE DESCENDANTS OF #OSIMO )v AND INCLUDES A LIKENESS OF #OSIMOS DAUGHTER )SABELLA MURDERED HERE BY HER HUSBAND IN FOR HER INlDELITY THE -EDICI HITMEN CAUGHT UP WITH HER ALLEGED LOVER IN 0ARIS THE FOLLOWING YEAR
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#ERRETO 'UIDI
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IN THE S 4HE MUSEUM ALSO POSSESSES AN ITEM RELATING TO ONE OF 4USCANYS STRANGER %ASTER RITUALS A WINGED MECHANICAL DONKEY THAT USED TO PERFORM A VER SION OF &LORENCES INCENDIARY DOVE CEREMONY THE DONKEY BEING PROPELLED FROM THE #OLLEGIATA TOWER DOWN TO 0IAZZA &ARINATA DEGLI 5BERTI WHERE IT WOULD IGNITE A PILE OF lREWORKS .OWADAYS A PAPIER MÊCHÏ BEAST PERFORMS THE ROLE 4HE MUSEUM TICKET ALSO GIVES YOU ACCESS TO THE ADJACENT CHURCH OF 3ANTO 3TEFANO 4UESn&RI AMnNOON WHERE YOU CAN SEE THE REMNANTS OF FRESCOES BY -ASOLINO AND A MARBLE !NNUNCIATION BY "ERNARDO 2OSSELLINO #LOSE BY AT 0IAZZA DELLA 6ITTORIO STANDS THE BIRTHPLACE OF %MPOLIS MOST FAMOUS NATIVE OF RECENT TIMES THE GREAT COMPOSER PIANIST &ERRUCCIO "USONI n 4HE TOWN COMMEMORATES HIM WITH A SERIES OF CONCERTS FROM /CTOBER TO -AY DETAILS ON WWWCOMUNEEMPOLIlIT 4HE "USONI HOUSE CONTAINS A SMALL MUSEUM BUT ITS NOT OPEN TO CASUAL VISITORS )F YOURE KEEN ON 0ONTORMOS PAINTINGS YOU MIGHT WANT TO DRIVE OUT TO THE HAMLET OF 0/.4/2-% ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF %MPOLI ON THE ROAD TO &LORENCE 4HIS WAS THE BIRTHPLACE OF THE ARTIST BAPTIZED AS *ACOPO #ARRUCCI AND THE PAR ISH CHURCH OF 3AN -ICHELE RETAINS A COUPLE OF PICTURES BY HIM A 3T *OHN THE %VANGELIST AND A 3T -ICHAEL
6INCI 3ITTING ON THE SOUTHERN SLOPES OF -ONTE !LBANO KM NORTH OF %MPOLI 6).#) IS SET AMID A ROLLING SWATHE OF VINEYARDS AND OLIVE GROVES 4HE LANDSCAPE IS NOT WHAT DRAWS PEOPLE ALONG THE ROAD BETWEEN %MPOLI AND 0ISTOIA HOWEVER n ITS THE VILLAGES ASSOCIATION WITH ,EONARDO DA 6INCI WHO IN !PRIL WAS BORN IN THE NEARBY HAMLET OF !RCHIANO AND BAPTIZED IN 6INCIS CHURCH OF 3ANTA #ROCE 6INCI ITSELF IS A TORPID PLACE BUT PRESERVES A MIGHTY THIRTEENTH CENTURY CAS TLE THE #ASTELLO DEI #ONTI 'UIDI WHICH HOUSES THE MAIN PART OF THE -USEO ,EONARDIANO DAILY AMnPM WINTER CLOSES PM + JOINT TICKET WITH THE -USEO #OLLEGIATA IN %MPOLI AND THE -ONTELUPO CERAMICS MUSEUM + n THE TICKET OFlCE IS IN THE 0ALAZZINA 5ZIELLI IN 6IA 2OSSI /PENED ON THE lVE HUN DREDTH ANNIVERSARY OF ,EONARDOS BIRTH THE MUSEUM IS DEDICATED TO ,EONARDO THE INVENTOR AND ENGINEER RATHER THAN ,EONARDO THE ARTIST WITH A LARGE AND
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FAIRLY IMAGINATIVE DISPLAY OF MODELS n TANKS WATER CANNON mYING MACHINES LOOMS AND GEAR MECHANISMS n ALL RECONSTRUCTED FROM HIS NOTEBOOK DRAWINGS WHICH ARE REPRODUCED ALONGSIDE THE RELEVANT CONTRAPTIONS 4OO MUCH SPACE IS DEVOTED TO ,EONARDOS MORE WHIMSICAL JOTTINGS n HALF A ROOM IS GIVEN OVER FOR EXAMPLE TO A MOCK UP OF HIS SKIS FOR WALKING ON WATER n BUT HIGH PRODUCTION VALUES PREVAIL THROUGHOUT !VOID THE MUSEUM ON A 3UNDAY WHEN IT CAN FEEL AS IF HALF THE POPULATION OF 4USCANY HAS TURNED UP )F YOU WANT A BITE TO EAT BEFORE HEADING BACK DROP IN AT )L 2ISTORO DEL -USEO AT THE BACK OF THE MUSEUM AT 6IA -ONTALBANO CLOSED &RI EVENING 3AT LUNCH ,EONARDOS BIRTHPLACE SAME HOURS FREE IS IN !.#()!./ SOME KM FARTHER NORTH INTO THE HILLS A PLEASANT WALK PAST lELDS OF POPPIES 4HE HOUSE WAS OWNED BY HIS FATHER A &LORENTINE CLERK CALLED 3ER 0IERO ,EONARDOS MOTHER IS GENERALLY BELIEVED TO HAVE BEEN A CONTADINA PEASANT GIRL BUT THE ONLY THINGS THAT ARE KNOWN FOR CERTAIN IS THAT HER NAME WAS #ATERINA AND SHE DIDNT MARRY HIS FATHER POSSIBLY BECAUSE 3ER 0IERO WAS ALREADY BETROTHED n WITHIN EIGHT MONTHS OF HIS SONS BIRTH HE HAD MARRIED THE SIXTEEN YEAR OLD DAUGHTER OF A &LORENTINE NOTARY AND SOON AFTERWARDS #ATERINA WAS MARRIED TO A MAN WHO WENT BY THE NAME OF !CCATTABRIGA WHO MAY HAVE BEEN A SOLDIER -EANING SOMETHING LIKE hTROUBLE MAKERv !CCATTABRIGA WAS A COMMON NICKNAME AMONG MERCENARIES 0LACARD SIZE CAPTIONS AND A COUPLE OF REPRODUCTION DRAWINGS ARE PRETTY WELL ALL THERE IS TO SEE INSIDE THE HOUSE
3AN -INIATO 4HE STRATEGIC HILL TOP SITE OF 3!. -).)!4/ MORE OR LESS EQUIDISTANT BETWEEN 0ISA AND &LORENCE HAS BEEN EXPLOITED SINCE THE ERA OF !UGUSTUS WHEN THE 2OMAN SETTLEMENT OF 1UARTO WAS FOUNDED HERE ! ,OMBARD TOWN SUC CEEDED IT AND AT THE END OF THE TENTH CENTURY /TTO ) MADE THIS AN OUTPOST OF THE (OLY 2OMAN %MPIRE ! LATER EMPEROR &REDERICK )) GAVE THE TOWN ITS LANDMARK FORTRESS AND THE IMPERIAL CONNECTION LED TO THE NICKNAME 3AN -INIATO DEI 4EDE SCHI hOF THE 'ERMANSv 4ODAY ITS A BRUSQUE LITTLE AGRICULTURAL TOWN GOOD FOR A COUPLE OF HOURS BREAK OF JOURNEY BUT UNLIKELY TO TEMPT YOU TO GIVE IT LONGER 4HE TRAIN STATION AND MAIN PREDOMINANTLY MODERN PART OF TOWN n 3AN -INI ATO "ASSO n ARE SITED DOWN IN THE VALLEY &ROM HERE ITS A STEEP FOUR KILOMETRE CLIMB TO 3AN -INIATO !LTO THE OLD QUARTER ! MINI ORANGE BUS DOES THE RUN TO 3AN -INIATO !LTO FROM THE TRAIN STATION DAILY ABOUT EVERY MIN nAM nPM )T DEPOSITS YOU JUST BELOW THE WALLS IN 0IAZZALE $ANTE !LIGH IERI WHICH IS ALSO THE PLACE TO PARK "EYOND THE TOWN GATE A RIGHT TURN LEADS TO 0IAZZA DEL 0OPOLO WHERE A PLAN OF THE TOWN IS DISPLAYED OUTSIDE THE TOURIST OFlCE !T THE TOP END OF THE SQUARE IS THE MUCH REBUILT CHURCH OF 3AN $OMENICO WHICH CONTAINS THE lNE TOMB OF A &LORENTINE DOCTOR NAMED 'IOVANNI #HELLINI #ARVED BY ONE 0AGNO DI ,APO 0OR TIGIANI ITS MODELLED ON THE TOMB OF ,EONARDO "RUNI IN &LORENCES 3ANTA #ROCE &ROM HERE 6IA #ONTI RISES TO THE 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA JAZZED UP BY SEVENTEENTH CENTURY GRAFlTI ON THE LONG FACADE OF THE SEMINARY PART OF WHOSE GROUND mOOR IS A ROW OF RESTORED FOURTEENTH CENTURY SHOPS A RARE SURVIVAL /PPOSITE THE SEMINARY A mIGHT OF STEPS RISES TO THE 0RATO DEL $UOMO WHERE A TOWER OF THE IMPERIAL FORTRESS NOW HOUSES A HOTEL .EXT DOOR THE 0ALAZZO DEI 6ICARI DELL)MPERATORE IS A RELIC OF THE TIME WHEN 3AN -INIATO WAS THE SEAT OF THE VICARS OF THE (OLY 2OMAN %MPIRE #OUNTESS -ATILDA OF 4USCIA DAUGHTER OF ONE OF THESE VICARS WAS BORN HERE 4HE RED BRICK $UOMO DEDICATED TO 3T 'ENESIUS THE PATRON SAINT OF ACTORS IS HACKED ABOUT 2OMANESQUE WITH AN INTERIOR OF "AROQUE GILDING AND MARBLING
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.EXT DOOR THE TINY MUSEUM !PRILn.OV 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM $ECn-ARCH 3AT 3UN SAME HOURS + HAS A #RUCIlXION BY &ILIPPO ,IPPI AND A TERRACOTTA BUST OF #HRIST BY 6ERROCCHIO !T THE BACK OF THE $UOMO THE PONDER OUS 3ANTUARIO DEL #ROCIlSSO WAS BUILT TO HOUSE A #RUCIlX THAT WAS THOUGHT TO HAVE PLAYED A PART IN SAVING THE TOWN FROM THE PLAGUE OF THE #RUCIlX IS STILL THERE BUT THE SANCTUARY IS RARELY OPEN &ROM THE 0RATO DEL $UOMO ITS A SHORT WALK UP TO THE TOWER OF THE 2OCCA DAILY AMnPM WHICH WAS REBUILT BY &REDERICK )) AND RESTORED BRICK BY BRICK AFTER DAMAGE IN 7ORLD 7AR )) THE MAIN POINT OF THE CLIMB IS THE STUPEN DOUS PANORAMIC VIEW ON A CLEAR DAY OF THE SURROUNDING COUNTRYSIDE $ANTES )NFERNO PERPETUATES THE MEMORY OF 0IER DELLA 6IGNA &REDERICKS TREASURER WHO WAS IMPRISONED AND BLINDED HERE A FATE THAT DROVE HIM TO SUICIDE BY JUMPING FROM THE TOWER n AS THE INSCRIPTION AT ITS FOOT RECORDS "ELOW THE TOWER ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE FROM THE $UOMO STANDS THE CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCESCO OCCUPYING THE SITE WHERE THE ,OMBARDS DEDICATED THE CHAPEL TO 3AN -INIATO THAT GAVE THE TOWN ITS NAME 4HE CHURCH WAS ALTERED BY THE &RANCISCANS WHO WERE GIVEN THE PROPERTY AFTER &RANCIS HIMSELF HAD VISITED THE TOWN AND TRACES OF THEIR 2OMANESQUE BUILDING CAN STILL JUST ABOUT BE DISCERNED THROUGH THE LATER 'OTHIC
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5 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA 3AN -INIATO
0RACTICALITIES
4HE TOURIST OFlCE IS IN 0IAZZA DEL 0OPOLO SUMMER DAILY AMnPM n PM WINTER -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM WWW COMUNESAN MINIATOPIIT 4HE TOWER OF THE 0RATO DEL $UOMO IS NOW OCCUPIED BY THE THREE STAR -IRAVALLE HOTEL 3AN -INIATOS BEST PLACE TO STAY WITH MARVELLOUS VIEWS AND A GOOD RESTAURANT IN THE PALAZZO NEXT DOOR /THER RECOMMENDABLE RESTAURANTS ARE $A #ANAPONE IN 0IAZZA "UONAPARTE CLOSED -ON SERVING LOCAL FOOD AT REASONABLE PRICES AND THE ,!NTRO DI "ACCO CLOSED 7ED IN 6IA )6 .OVEMBRE 3AN -INIATO BOASTS A RICH CULTURAL CALENDAR BETWEEN THE MONTHS OF -AY AND /CTOBER WITH A GOOD CHOICE OF CONCERTS AND EXHIBITIONS BOTH IN THE VILLAGE ITSELF AND IN OUTLYING AREAS 4HERES A MONTHLY ANTIQUES MARKET IN THE ,OGGIATA
DI 3AN $OMENICO ST 3UN OF MONTH /N THE lRST 3UNDAY AFTER %ASTER THIS ZONE AROUND THE 2OCCA IS PACKED WITH COMPETITORS IN THE NATIONAL KITE mYING CHAMPIONSHIPS WHICH COMPETES WITH A mOWER FESTIVAL HELD THE SAME DAY
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3OUTH OF %MPOLI 4HE . ROAD AND %MPOLIn3IENA TRAIN LINE WHICH HEAD SOUTH BETWEEN %MP OLI AND 3AN -INIATO PROVIDE AN EASY AND DIRECT APPROACH TO 3AN 'IMIGNANO AND 3IENA !LONG THE WAY ARE TWO INTERESTING IF MODEST HILL TOWN ATTRACTIONS #ASTELlORENTINO HOME TO A COUPLE OF DELIGHTFUL 'OZZOLI FRESCO CYCLES AND #ERTALDO WHERE "OCCACCIO SPENT HIS LAST YEARS
\ 3OUTH OF %MPOLI
#ASTELlORENTINO ! lEF OF THE BISHOPS OF &LORENCE FROM THE TWELFTH CENTURY ONWARDS #!34%, &)/2%.4)./ REMAINED IN THE CITYS ORBIT THROUGH MOST OF ITS UNEVENTFUL HISTORY 4ODAY ITS A FAIRLY LARGE URBAN CENTRE WITH LIGHT INDUSTRY AND BLOCK HOUS ING SPREADING OUT IN THE MODERN LOWER QUARTER OF TOWN ACROSS THE RIVER %LSA )TS NOT A PARTICULARLY PRETTY STOP AND FOR ONCE IN 4USCANY YOU MAY WELL lND YOURSELF THE ONLY VISITOR IN THE PLACE &ROM THE TRAIN STATION n WHERE YOULL lND THE TOURIST OFlCE AT 6IA 2IDOLl AMnPM nPM &RIn3UN CLOSES PM WWWCOMUNE CASTELlORENTINOlIT n YOU CAN SEE THE EXPANSIVE 0IAZZA 'RAMSCI STRAIGHT AHEAD )TS mANKED BY CAFÏS BARS AND THE ONLY CENTRAL HOTEL THE THREE STAR (OTEL 2ISTORANTE ,AMI AT NO n WWWALBERGOLAMIIT "EST OF A DOZEN OR SO RESTAURANTS MOST GROUPED IN THE AREA AROUND 0IAZZA 'RAMSCI IS ,A -AGONA 6IA 2IDOLl CLOSED 3UN !UG TO YOUR RIGHT OUT OF THE STATION 4HE 4OWN
4O LOOK AROUND THE #ASTELLO n THE OLD UPPER TOWN n HEAD UP THE STAIRS AT THE CORNER OF 0IAZZA 'RAMSCI BY THE 4EATRO DEL 0OPOLO AND YOULL REACH A PATCH OF GARDEN SQUARE TO EITHER SIDE OF WHICH RUNS 6IA DEI 4ILLI 4URN LEFT AND YOU COME TO THE "IBLIOTECA #OMUNALE SUMMER 4UES 4HURS 3AT nPM 3UN AMnNOON nPM WINTER 4UES 4HURS 3AT nPM 3UN AMnNOON nPM + WHERE FRESCOES BY 'OZZOLI ARE DISPLAYED ON THE TOP mOOR HAVING BEEN DETACHED FROM A PAIR OF LOCAL SANCTU ARY CHAPELS 4O THE LEFT OF THE GALLERY ENTRANCE IS A COMPLETE RECONSTRUCTION OF THE -ADONNA DELLA 4OSSE CHAPEL INCLUDING A FRESCOED hALTARPIECEv AND SIDE WALL SCENES OF THE DEATH AND ASSUMPTION OF THE 6IRGIN THEIR LANDSCAPES STUDDED WITH CYPRESS TREES AND ROLLING 4USCAN HILLS -ORE FRAGMENTARY BUT MORE INTER ESTING ARE THE mOOD DAMAGED FRESCOES AND SINOPIE FROM THE 3ANCTUARY OF THE 6ISITATION 4HESE AGAIN DEPICT EPISODES FROM THE LIFE OF THE 6IRGIN AND OF HER PARENTS *OACHIM 'IOACCHINO AND !NNE THE BEST OF THEM FULL OF GENRE DETAIL OF EVERYDAY lFTEENTH CENTURY LIFE "OTH SETS OF FRESCOES WERE COMPLETED IN THE S LATE IN 'OZZOLIS CAREER POSSIBLY DURING PERIODS WHEN THE PLAGUE HAD HIT &LORENCE 4URN RIGHT FROM THE GARDEN SQUARE ALONG 6IA DEI 4ILLI AND YOU COME TO THE MAIN 0IAZZA DEL 0OPOLO mANKED BY THE #OLLEGIATA OF 3AN ,ORENZO n BUILT ON ,OMBARD FOUNDATIONS n AND A NINETEENTH CENTURY -UNICIPIO 4HE STEPPED STREET ABOVE THE PIAZZA LEADS TO THE SUMMIT OF THE TOWN MARKED BY THE 2OMANESQUE 0IEVE DI 3AN )PPOLITO E "IAGIO CURRENTLY CLOSED FOR RESTORATION )T WAS HERE IN THAT THE RECTORS OF THE 4USCAN ,EAGUE WHICH WAS FORMED TO DEFEND THE CITIES AGAINST hANY
)F YOURE DRIVING AND FEEL LIKE A RAMBLING FOURTEEN KILOMETRE CROSS COUNTRY ROUTE DOWN TO 3AN 'IMIGNANO FOLLOW THE ROAD SOUTHWEST OF #ASTELlORENTINO THROUGH EITHER -ONTAIONE A QUIET LITTLE HILL TOWN WITH A LESS THAN ESSENTIAL PALEONTOLOGY MUSEUM OR THROUGH THE MINOR SPA OF 'AMBASSI 4ERME n WITH THE LOVELY 2OMANESQUE 0IEVE A #HIANNI ON ITS OUTSKIRTS n TO THE VILLAGE OF 3!. 6)6!,$/ (ERE AMID THE WOODS A FOURTEENTH CENTURY &RANCISCAN HERMIT FOUNDED THE MONASTERY OF 3ACRO -ONTE WHICH BETWEEN AND WAS ENDOWED WITH CHAPELS REPRESENTING THE 3TATIONS OF THE #ROSS AND OTHER SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF #HRIST 4HE SURVIVING lFTEEN CHAPELS ARE NOT QUITE THE h*ERUSALEM IN 4USCANYv THE LOCAL TOURIST LITERATURE PROMOTES CLUSTERED TOGETHER BY THE ENTRANCE GATE TO THE MONASTERY THEY LOOK MORE LIKE A MINIATURE CEMETERY AND HARDLY A CREDIBLE ALTERNATIVE TO A PILGRIMAGE TO THE (OLY ,AND (OWEVER EACH OF THE CHAPELS IS ENDOWED WITH A LARGE SCALE PAINTED TERRACOTTA TABLEAU COMPLETED WITH IMPRESSIVE ANIMATION BY ARTISTS OF THE DELLA 2OBBIA SCHOOL
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3AN 6IVALDO
!2/5.$ & , /2% .# %
EMPEROR KING OR PRINCEv WERE SWORN IN n #ASTELlORENTINOS ONLY REAL EPISODE IN THE LIMELIGHT $OWN IN THE LOWER TOWN EAST OF 0IAZZA 'RAMSCI LEFT AS YOU FACE THE STATION AND RIVER A SMALL PARK GIVES ONTO THE "AROQUE CHURCH OF 3ANTA 6ERDIANA ADJACENT TO WHICH THERES A MUSEUM 3AT nPM 3UN AMnNOON nPM + DISPLAYING PAINTINGS FROM CHURCHES IN THE TOWN AND REGION INCLUDING WORKS BY $UCCIO 4ADDEO 'ADDI AND 'OZZOLI -ANY OF THESE PANELS CAME FROM NEARBY 3AN &RANCESCO WHICH HAS TWO FRAGMENTARY FRESCO CYCLES OF THE ,IFE OF 3T &RANCIS THE lNER BY #ENNO DI #ENNI IS IN THE NAVE !S SO OFTEN IN THESE PARTS THE CHURCH CLAIMS FOUNDATION BY 3T &RANCIS HIMSELF 3T 6ERDIANA n THE LOCAL PATRON SAINT n WAS HIS CONTEMPORARY AND ORDAINED BY HIM INTO THE ORDER SHE IS GENERALLY DEPICTED WITH A COUPLE OF SERPENTS WHOSE LIVES SHE SAVED IN A PAUSE BETWEEN OTHER MIRACLES
#ERTALDO %VEN WITHOUT ITS "OCCACCIO CONNECTION #%24!,$/ WOULD JUSTIFY A VISIT ! TINY BUT VERY STRIKING HILL TOWN n ALL RED BRICK TOWERS BATTLEMENTS AND MANSIONS n IT IS VISIBLE FOR MILES ALONG THE %LSA VALLEY AND ITSELF HAS VIEWS OUT TO 3AN 'IMIGNANO &OR A SPELL IN THE TWELFTH CENTURY ITS RULERS THE !LBERTI DUKES OF 0RATO CONTROLLED A DOMAIN STRETCHING NORTH TO THE !RNO BUT SUBSEQUENT DOMINATION BY &LORENCE AND INCURSIONS BY 3IENA LED TO ITS ASSUMING A LARGELY PROVINCIAL ROLE .OWADAYS ITS LOWER TOWN BUILT ALONG THE . IS A PROSPEROUS PLACE MAKING ITS MONEY FROM WINE AND AGRICULTURE AS WELL AS GLASS BRICK AND PASTA FACTORIES )N LATE *ULY OR EARLY !UGUST THE TOWN WWWCOMUNECERTALDOlIT HOLDS THE ATMOSPHERIC -ERCANTIA FESTIVAL WHICH FEATURES VARIOUS MEDIEVAL THEMED EVENTS ALL ILLUMINATED BY TORCHES AND CANDLES 4HERES ALSO A CULTURAL FESTIVAL IN 3EPTEMBER THE lRST 3UNDAY OF WHICH IS THE FEAST OF 3ANTA 'IULIA DELLA 2ENA SIGNAL FOR A REUNION OF ALL THE TOWNS EMIGRANTS 9OURE NOT ALLOWED TO DRIVE INTO THE OLD TOWN n #ERTALDO !LTO n UNLESS YOURE STAYING OVERNIGHT UP THERE !RRIVING BY BUS OR TRAIN YOULL lND YOURSELF CLOSE TO THE CENTRAL 0IAZZA "OCCACCIO IN THE LOWER TOWN FROM WHERE YOU CAN EITHER WALK UP THE STEEP 6ICOLO 3IGNORINI OR TAKE THE FUNICULAR DAILY SUMMER AMnMIDNIGHT WINTER AMnPM EVERY MIN + RETURN
#ERTALDO !LTO
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#ERTALDOS UPPER TOWN IS LITTLE MORE THAN A SINGLE STREET PREDICTABLY DUBBED 6IA "OCCACCIO WHICH STRETCHES FROM THE WESTERN SIDE WHERE THE FUNICULAR ARRIVES TO THE ARCHETYPALLY 4USCAN TOWN HALL OR 0ALAZZO 6ICARIALE (ALFWAY ALONG THE STREET STANDS THE #ASA DEL "OCCACCIO SUMMER -ON 7EDn3UN AMnPM 4UES AMnPM WINTER -ON 7EDn3UN AMn PM 4UES CLOSED + JOINT TICKET WITH 0ALAZZO 6ICARIALE -USEO D!RTE 3ACRA + 4HIS IS AS LIKELY A CANDIDATE FOR THE HOME OF THE POET AS ANY OF THE TOWNS MANSIONS THOUGH SCHOLARS CONTINUE TO DISPUTE QUITE WHICH TOWERED HOUSE "OCCACCIO SPECIlED IN HIS WILL )F INDEED IT IS HIS HOME THEN HE SPENT THE LAST TWELVE YEARS OF HIS LIFE HERE n DESPITE A CONSIDERABLE REPUTATION n IN VERY MODEST CIRCUMSTANCES 'IVEN THE UNCERTAINTY OVER ITS ATTRIBUTION THE HOUSE CONTAINS NO DIRECT LINKS WITH "OCCACCIO INDEED IT CONTAINS NOTHING OF ANY GREAT ANTIQUITY OTHER THAN A CASE OF MEDIEVAL SHOES )NSTEAD ALL YOU GET ARE PHOTOS OF PORTRAITS OF THE WRITER ILLUSTRATIONS OF SCENES FROM THE $ECAMERON AND VARIOUS EDITIONS OF HIS MASTERPIECE IN THE ORIGINAL AND IN TRANSLATION -ORE INTERESTING IS THE CHURCH OF 33 -ICHELE E *ACOPO A SHORT DISTANCE FARTHER UP THE STREET WHICH "OCCACCIO ATTENDED AND WHERE HE WAS BURIED ! SIMPLE MARBLE DIAMOND ON THE mOOR OF THE NAVE MARKS HIS GRAVE ABOVE A MOCK MEDIEVAL FUNERARY SLAB WHICH REPLACES THE TOMB DESTROYED IN THE BURGHERS OF #ERTALDO n HAVING CONCLUDED AS THE AUTHOR DID THAT THE $ECAMERON WAS AN UNGODLY WORK n RIPPED UP THE TOMBSTONE AND SCATTERED HIS ASHES "YRON WHO CAME TO PAY HIS RESPECTS A FEW YEARS LATER WAS SCANDALIZED
xEVEN HIS TOMB 5PTORN MUST BEAR THE HYENA BIGOTS WRONG .O MORE AMIDST THE MEANER DEAD lND ROOM
"YRONS VERSES HAD AN EFFECT PROMPTING THE -ARQUISE ,ENZONI n A STRAGGLER FROM THE -EDICI FAMILY n TO BUY UP AND RESTORE THE "OCCACCIO HOUSE AND ARRANGE THE MONUMENT ON THE LEFT HAND WALL OF THE CHURCH WHICH COMPRISES A SIXTEENTH CENTURY BUST AND A SLAB BEARING THE LINES THE POET WROTE AS HIS OWN EPITAPH 4HE CHURCHS OTHER NOTABLE FEATURES ARE A TRIO OF PIECES FROM THE WORKSHOP OF !NDREA DELLA 2OBBIA A FOURTEENTH CENTURY 3IENESE FRESCO OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD AND THE TOMB OF #ERTALDOS PATRON SAINT 'IULIA DELLA 2ENA WHO SPENT THIRTY YEARS IN A WALLED UP CELL BESIDE THE SACRISTY AND AT WHOSE DEATH IN ALL THE BELLS OF #ERTALDO ARE SAID TO HAVE SPONTANEOUSLY BEGUN TO RING 4HE SMALL -USEO D!RTE 3ACRA OFF THE CHURCHS CLOISTER SUMMER DAILY AMnPM WINTER 3AT 3UN AMnPM + JOINT TICKET WITH 0ALAZZO 6ICARIALE #ASA DI "OCCACCIO + IS A TYPICAL SMALL TOWN COLLECTION OF HUMDRUM PAINTINGS AND ECCLESIASTICAL APPLIED ART !S YOULL SEE FROM A LONG WAY OFF THE 0ALAZZO 6ICARIALE SUMMER DAILY AMnPM WINTER 4UESn3UN AMnPM + JOINT TICKET WITH #ASA DI "OCCACCIO -USEO D!RTE 3ACRA + IS BLAZONED WITH COATS OF ARMS INCLUD ING FURTHER EXAMPLES FROM THE DELLA 2OBBIA WORKSHOP THAT ATTEST TO ITS USE AS THE GOVERNORS RESIDENCE AFTER THE DEMISE OF ITS ORIGINAL OWNERS THE !LBERTI )NSIDE THE ARCADED COURTYARD DISPLAYS FURTHER COATS OF ARMS AND A FRAGMENTARY ARRAY OF FRESCOES MANY EITHER PAINTED OR REPAINTED AT THE END OF THE lFTEENTH CENTURY 4O THE RIGHT AS YOU ENTER THE ROOM IN WHICH THE LAW COURT CONVENED IS DOMINATED BY A FRESCO OF $OUBTING 4HOMAS ATTRIBUTED TO 'OZZOLI #ELLS FOR MINOR FELONS ADJOIN THIS ROOM SERIOUS OFFENDERS WERE DISPATCHED TO THE GRIM ALMOST WINDOWLESS DUNGEONS AT THE REAR OF THE COURTYARD NEXT TO THE WOMENS PRISON !MONG THE GRAFlTI ETCHED BY THE PRISONERS YOULL lND A DIAGRAM OF THE
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SUN EACH BEAM SIGNIFYING A DAY SPENT CONlNED 5PSTAIRS LIE THE MORE SPACIOUS CHAMBERS OF THE GOVERNOR AND HIS SERVANTS AGAIN WITH THE ODD FADED FRESCO 4HESE ROOMS ARE USED ON AND OFF FOR SPECIAL EXHIBITIONS OFTEN WITH A "OCCAC CIAN THEME "ACK DOWNSTAIRS A DOOR FROM THE MAGISTRATES HALL OPENS ONTO A WALLED GARDEN THAT GIVES YOU A WONDERFUL VIEW FROM ITS PARAPET /N THE FAR SIDE OF THE GARDEN IS THE ENTRANCE TO THE DECONSECRATED CHURCH OF 3AN 4OMMASO E 0ROSPERO WHICH WAS USED AS A STOREROOM FROM THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY THEN RESTORED AFTER 7ORLD 7AR )) )T CONTAINS A MISCELLANY OF FRESCOES AND SINOPIE THE MOST NOTABLE BEING THE $EPOSITION THAT FORMS THE FOCUS OF 'OZZOLIS 4ABERNACLE OF THE #ON DEMNED WHICH WAS MOVED HERE FROM THE LOCAL CHAPEL FOR WHICH IT WAS CREATED
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'IOVANNI "OCCACCIO WAS BORN ACCORDING TO THE ACCOUNT HE GAVE HIS FRIEND 0ETRARCH IN 0ARIS PROBABLY IN 4HE SON OF A BANKER FROM #ERTALDO HE RETURNED FAIRLY EARLY IN HIS CHILDHOOD TO 4USCANY !S A YOUTH HE REJECTED THE BANKING CAREER PLANNED BY HIS FAMILY INSTEAD GOING TO STUDY IN .APLES WHERE HE FELL IN LOVE WITH &IAMMETTA AN ILLEGITIMATE PRINCESS AND THE INSPIRATION FOR NUMEROUS OF HIS SONNETS (E RETURNED TO &LORENCE RELUCTANTLY AFTER THE COLLAPSE OF HIS FATHERS BUSINESS AND THERE n AS WELL AS IN -ILAN AND !VIGNON WHERE HE WORKED AS A DIPLOMAT n WROTE HIS MAJOR WORKS INCLUDING THE $ECAMERON !GED AROUND HE MET A MONK WHO SO IMPRESSED HIM WITH A VISION OF HIS DEATH THAT HE DECIDED TO REJECT HIS WORLDLY EXCESSES OF OLD AND RETIRE TO #ERTALDO 4HE REST OF THE YEARS HERE WERE SPENT PRODUCING LEARNED VOLUMES ON GEOGRAPHY THE VANITY OF HUMAN AFFAIRS AND MYTHOLOGY AND PREPARING LECTURES ON $ANTE (E DIED ON $ECEMBER
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4HERE ARE TWO HOTEL RESTAURANTS UP IN #ERTALDO !LTO 4HE TWO STAR )L #ASTELLO 6IA DELLA 2ENA WWWALBERGOILCASTELLOIT OCCUPIES AN APPEALINGLY DOWDY OLD MANSION AT THE WESTERN END OF 6IA "OCCACCIO IT HAS A SPLENDID GARDEN OVERLOOKING THE LOWER TOWN AND OFFERS GOOD VALUE IF RATHER BASIC FOOD RESTAURANT CLOSED 4UES AROUND + 4HE FOOD AT THE /STERIA DEL 6ICARIO 6IA 2IVELLINO WWWOSTERIADELVICARIOIT JUST BEYOND THE 0ALAZZO 6ICARIALE IS SOMEWHAT MORE EXPENSIVE AROUND + RESTAURANT CLOSED 7ED AND CORRESPONDINGLY MORE RElNED THE ROOMS ARE A TOUCH PRICIER AND COSIER TOO n lVE OF THEM ARE IN THE SAME THIRTEENTH CENTURY MONASTIC BUILDING AS THE RESTAURANT FOUR ARE IN A NEIGHBOURING HOUSE THESE HAVE SPLENDID VIEWS AND A FURTHER SIX ARE LOCATED IN A THIRD BUILDING M AWAY 4HE EXCELLENT CAMPSITE 4OSCANA #OLLIVERDI 6IA -ARCIALLA !PRILn3EPT IS A SHORT DISTANCE SOUTH IN THE VILLAGE OF -ARCIALLA ON THE VERY EDGE OF THE #HIANTI HILLS
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HOURLY MIN -ONTECATINI HOURLY MIN 6IAR EGGIO HOURLY HR MIN 0RATO TO &LORENCE EVERY MIN MIN ,UCCA HOURLY HR -ONTECATINI HOURLY MIN 0ISTOIA HOURLY MIN 6IAREGGIO HOURLY HR MIN
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, 5##! !.$ ./24(% 2. 453 # !.9 \ ,UCCA
HARDLY WALK FOR lVE MINUTES WITHOUT COMING UPON A SMALL PIAZZA AND MARBLE FRONTED CHURCH FACADE -OST WERE BUILT OBLIQUELY TO THE GRID OF STREETS SO YOU RARELY CONFRONT A CHURCH HEAD ON BUT RATHER AS A SUDDEN APPARITION AS YOU ENTER A SQUARE ,UCCA LIES AT THE HEART OF ONE OF )TALYS RICHEST AGRICULTURAL REGIONS hHALF SMOTHERED IN OIL AND WINE AND CORN AND ALL THE FRUITS OF THE EARTH v *AMES WROTE AND HAS PROSPERED SINCE THE 2OMANS WHOSE GRIDIRON ORTHODOXY IS STILL OBVIOUS IN THE LAYOUT OF THE STREETS 5NDER THE ,OMBARDS IT WAS THE CAPITAL OF 4USCIA 4USCANY THOUGH ITS HEYDAY WAS BETWEEN THE ELEVENTH AND FOURTEENTH CENTU RIES WHEN BANKING AND THE SILK TRADE BROUGHT WEALTH AND FOR A TIME POLITICAL POWER )N A BRIEF mURRY OF MILITARY ACTIVITY ,UCCA LOST ITS INDEPENDENCE TO 0ISA IN
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,UCCAS FESTIVALS
, 5##! !.$ ./24(% 2. 453 # !.9
,UCCAS FESTIVE MONTH IS 3EPTEMBER WITH THE EVENTS OF 3ETTEMBRE ,UCCHESE WWWSETTEMBRELUCCHESEIT CENTRED ON A CANDLELIT PROCESSION ON THE TH WHEN THE 6OLTO 3ANTO COMPLETE WITH DIAMOND STUDDED CROWN AND A HUGE PAIR OF SILVER SLIPPERS IS CARRIED THROUGH THE STREETS FROM 3AN &REDIANO TO THE $UOMO 4HE TOURIST OFlCE HAS DETAILS OF CLASSICAL CONCERTS AT THE INTIMATE FOUR TIERED 4EATRO #OMUNALE IN 0IAZZA DEL 'IGLIO JAZZ EVENTS AND ART SHOWS DURING 3EPTEMBER AND AT OTHER TIMES !NOTHER KEY EVENT IS *ULYS 3UMMER &ESTIVAL WWWSUMMER FESTIVALCOM WHEN BIG NAME BANDS STAGE CONCERTS IN 0IAZZA !NlTEATRO AND 0IAZZA .APOLEONE
\ ,UCCA
BUT REGAINED IT UNDER THE COMMAND OF A REMARKABLE ADVENTURER #ASTRUC CIO #ASTRACANI WHO WENT ON TO FORGE AN EMPIRE COVERING MUCH OF WESTERN 4USCANY 0ISA AND 0ISTOIA BOTH FELL TO THE ,UCCHESI AND BUT FOR #ASTRACANIS UNTIMELY DEATH FROM MALARIA &LORENCE MIGHT HAVE FOLLOWED )N SUBSEQUENT CEN TURIES THE CITY REMAINED LARGELY INDEPENDENT n IF FAIRLY INCONSEQUENTIAL n UNTIL PASSING TO .APOLEON AND RULE BY HIS SISTER %LISA "ACIOCCHI THE "OURBONS AND JUST SHORT OF )TALIAN UNIlCATION TO THE 'RAND $UCHY OF 4USCANY 4ODAY THE CITY IS RECKONED AMONG THE WEALTHIEST IN 4USCANY A PROSPERITY GAINED LARGELY THROUGH SILK THAT WAS PRODUCED HERE BY SCORES OF SMALL FAMILY BUSINESSES AND ON THE REGIONS HIGH QUALITY OLIVE OIL AND OTHER PRODUCE 4HERE IS TOO A TRA DITION OF DECORUM TRACEABLE TO EIGHTEENTH AND NINETEENTH CENTURY COURT LIFE UP UNTIL THE TURN OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY SMART )TALIAN FAMILIES SENT THEIR DAUGHTERS TO ,UCCA TO PICK UP THE BETTER MANNERS PRESUMED TO PREVAIL HERE
!RRIVAL INFORMATION AND ACCOMMODATION 4HE TRAIN STATION WITH FOREIGN EXCHANGE FACILITIES IS ON 0IAZZA 2ICASOLI A SHORT WAY OUTSIDE THE WALLS TO THE SOUTH FROM THERE WALK UP TO THE MAIN ROAD AND TURN LEFT AND AFTER ABOUT M CROSS THE STREET RIGHT AND FOLLOW THE ROAD AHEAD THROUGH THE WALLS "USES ARRIVE JUST INSIDE THE WESTERN STRETCH OF WALLS IN 0IAZZALE 'IUSEPPE 6ERDI WHILE CITY BUSES LEAVE FROM THE SAME PIAZZA AND #ORSO 'ARIBALDI 4HE MAIN TOURIST OFlCE IS 0IAZZA 3ANTA -ARIA IN THE NORTH OF THE TOWN DAILY !PRILn/CT AMnPM .OVn-ARCH AMnPM WWW LUCCATURISMOIT /THER TOURIST INFORMATION POINTS ARE AT 0IAZZALE 6ERDI DAILY AMnPM .OVn-ARCH CLOSES PM n A SWISH AFFAIR WITH PUBLIC TOILETS DOWNSTAIRS n AND 6IALE ,UPORINI DAILY -ARCHn/CT AMnPM .OVn&EB AMnPM 4HOUGH ,UCCA ISNT A MAJOR STOP ON THE TOURIST TRAIL ITS LIMITED ACCOMMODA TION ALWAYS SEEMS IN DEMAND ITS WISE TO BOOK AHEAD AT ANY TIME OF YEAR 4HERE ARE VERY FEW HOTELS WITHIN THE CITY WALLS SO YOU MIGHT CONSIDER STAYING IN A MORE CENTRALLY LOCATED PRIVATE ROOM OR "" OR THE HOSTEL (OTELS
! 0ALAZZO "USDRAGHI 6IA &ILLUNGO WWWAPALAZZOBUSDRAGHI IT ! NEW INTIMATE AND CENTRAL FOUR STAR HOTEL WITH ONLY SEVEN ROOMS ALL FURNISHED WITH lNE ANTIQUES ONE OF THE ROOMS EVEN BOASTS A WARDROBE OWNED BY 0UCCINI !LLA #ORTE $EGLI !NGELI 6IA DEGLI !NGELI WWWALLACORTEDEGLIANGELICOM ! BRIGHT AIRY AND COLOURFUL HOTEL SITUATED INSIDE THE
MEDIEVAL WALLS 4HE DECOR OF EACH ROOM IS INSPIRED BY THE COLOURS OF DIFFERENT mOWERS n
"ERNARDINO 6IA DI 4IGLIO WWWHOTELBERNADINOIT ! TWO STAR WHOSE THIRTY ROOMS ALL HAVE PRIVATE BATHROOMS MARGINALLY THE MOST EXPENSIVE AND CLOSEST TO THE CENTRE OF THE THREE HOTELS ON THIS STREET $IANA 6IA DEL -OLINETTO WWWALBERGODIANACOM ! TWO STAR HOTEL LOCATED WITHIN THE WALLS A BLOCK WEST OF THE $UOMO AND
IPESSACOM %XPERIENCE ,UCCA IN STYLE BY STAYING KM SOUTH OF THE CITY IN THIS BEAUTIFULLY APPOINTED ROOM NINETEENTH CENTURY FOUR STAR VILLA SET IN LOVELY GROUNDS WITH A POOL
0RIVATE ROOMS
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#ASA !LBA 6IA &ILLUNGO SECOND mOOR WWWCASA ALBACOM &IVE CLEAN PLEASANT ROOMS DOUBLES AND SINGLES WITH OR WITHOUT PRIVATE BATHROOM ON ,UCCAS MAIN STREET JUST NORTH OF 0IAZZA !NlTEATRO #ENTRO 3TORICO #ORTE 0ORTICI WWWAFlTTACAMERECENTROSTORICOCOM 3IX CON VENIENT ROOMS FOUR WITH BATHROOM LOCATED ON A COURTYARD OFF 6IA #ALDERIA JUST NORTHWEST OF 0IAZZA 3AN -ICHELE n
,!RANCIO 6IA 2OMANO WWWARANCIOAFlTTACAMERECOM ROOMS OUTSIDE THE WALLS FOUR OF THEM SPACIOUS WOOD BEAMED DOUBLES WITH PRIVATE BATH ,A 4ORRE 6IA DEL #ARMINE &IVE NICE DOUBLE ROOMS WITH OR WITHOUT BATHROOM LOCATED OFF 0IAZZA DEL #ARMINE SOUTH OF 0IAZZA !NlTEATRO n 3AINTE *OUSTINE 6IA 3AN 'IUSTINA 3EVEN ROOMS FOUR WITH PRIVATE BATHROOM ON THE STREET THAT RUNS TO THE 0ALAZZO -ANSI 3AN &REDIANO 6IA DEGLI !NGELI WWWSANFREDIANOCOM 3IX ROOMS INCLUDING SINGLES AND DOUBLES WITH A CHOICE OF PRIVATE AND SHARED BATHROOMS 3ITUATED ON A STREET BETWEEN 6IA &ILLUNGO AND 6IA # "ATTISTI JUST SOUTHEAST OF 3AN &REDIANO 6ILLA 2OMANTICA 6IA . "ARBANTINI WWWVILLAROMANTICAIT 3IX ROOMS NEAR 0IAZZA DEL #ARMINE FOUR DOUBLE AND TWO SUITES ALL WITH PRIVATE BATHROOMS 4HERES ALSO A POOL GARDEN AND SOLARIUM n
, 5##! !.$ ./24(% 2. 453 # !.9 ,UCCA
ONLY M FROM THE TRAIN STATION n ,A 2OMEA 6ICOLO DELLE 6ENTAGLIE WWWLAROMEACOM ! WELCOM ING THREE STAR HOTEL M FROM THE 'UINIGI 4OWER WITH ONLY lVE ROOMS )TS RUN BY A YOUNG COUPLE AND IS ON THE lRST mOOR OF A FOURTEENTH CENTURY BUILDING ,OCANDA ,%LISA 33 BIS DEL "REN NERO -ASSA 0ISANA WWWLOCANDALELISAIT ! LUXURY lVE STAR AND ONE OF 4USCANYS TOP HOTELS KM SOUTH ON THE ROAD TO 0ISA 4HE + A NIGHT PRICE TAG BUYS YOU ONE OF TEN BEAUTIFUL SUITES AND ALL THE PAMPERING AND ELEGANCE YOUD EXPECT FOR THIS SORT OF MONEY #LOSED *AN &EB -ELECCHI 6IA 2OMANA WWWDORMIREINTOSCANAITMELECCHI ! DECENT TWO STAR WITH TEN EN SUITE ROOMS AND PRIVATE PARKING SITUATED A COUPLE OF BLOCKS OUTSIDE THE WALLS -ODERNO 6IA 6 #IVITALI WWW ALBERGOMODERNOCOM ! TWELVE ROOM TWO STAR OUT SIDE THE CITY WALLS SOUTHWEST OF THE TRAIN STATION ON THE WRONG SOUTH SIDE OF THE TRACKS !LL ROOMS HAVE PRIVATE BATHROOMS 0ICCOLO (OTEL 0UCCINI 6IA DI 0OGGIO WWWHOTELPUCCINICOM &RIENDLY CENTRAL THREE STAR WITH FOURTEEN ROOMS )TS LOCATED ALMOST BESIDE 3AN -ICHELE SO IS AN OBVIOUS lRST CHOICE n AND THUS DElNITELY NEEDS BOOKING 0RIVATE PARKING FOR AN EXTRA + 2EX 0IAZZA 2ICASOLI WWW HOTELREXLUCCACOM ! MODERN CHARACTERLESS BUT COMFORTABLE THREE STAR HOTEL WITH ROOMS JUST EAST OF THE TRAIN STATION
3TIPINO 6IA 2OMANA !DEQUATE TWO STAR HOTEL WITH ROOMS SOME WITH PRIVATE BATHROOMS n 5NIVERSO 0IAZZA DEL 'IGLIO WWWUNIVERSOLUCCACOM ,UCCAS NOT SO GRAND GRAND OLD HOTEL A THREE STAR WITH SIXTY ROOMS THAT LACKS ATMOSPHERE MADE UP FOR BY ITS LOCATION BANG ON THE CENTRAL 0IAZZA .APOLEONE 6ILLA ,A 0RINCIPESSA 6IA .UOVA PER 0ISA -ASSA 0ISANA WWWHOTELPRINC
(OSTEL /STELLO 3AN &REDIANO 6IA DELLA #AVALLERIZZA WWWOSTELLIONLINEORG #ONVENI ENTLY LOCATED () HOSTEL JUST WITHIN THE WALLS WITH A MIDNIGHT CURFEW $ORM BEDS +
4HE #ITY #ONlNED WITHIN ITS WALLS ,UCCA IS AN EASY PLACE TO GET YOUR BEARINGS 4HE CENTRE OF TOWN IS OSTENSIBLY 0IAZZA .APOLEONE A HUGE EXPANSE CARVED OUT BY THE "OURBONS TO HOUSE THEIR ADMINISTRATION &ROM HERE THE MAIN 6IA &IL LUNGO n THE hLONG THREADv n HEADS NORTH THROUGH THE HEART OF THE MEDIEVAL CITY 9OURE MOST LIKELY TO GRAVITATE TO 0IAZZA 3AN -ICHELE HOME TO THE CHURCH OF 3AN -ICHELE THE APOTHEOSIS OF THE 0ISAN 2OMANESQUE STYLE &ROM HERE YOU MIGHT WANT TO POTTER AROUND THE STREETS TO THE WEST OR PUSH STRAIGHT ON TO THE $UOMO ANOTHER 2OMANESQUE GEM WITH ONE OF )TALYS MOST SUBLIME FUNERARY
SCULPTURES &URTHER EAST THE &OSSO hDITCHv CUTS OFF THE QUARTER AROUND 3AN &RANCESCO WHILE TO THE NORTH IS 0IAZZA !NlTEATRO BUILT OVER THE OLD 2OMAN ARENA AND 3AN &REDIANO THE THIRD OF THE CITYS TRIO OF OUTSTANDING CHURCHES ! TRIP TO ,UCCA IS NOT COMPLETE WITHOUT STROLLING PART OF THE PANORAMIC AND TREE LINED PROMENADE ATOP THE WALLS ACCESSED FROM ALMOST ANY PART OF THE CITY 3AN -ICHELE , 5##! !.$ ./24(% 2. 453 # !.9
(EAD TO THE LONG TIME HISTORICAL HEART OF ,UCCA AND YOU COME TO THE SITE OF THE 2OMAN FORUM NOW THE SQUARE SURROUNDING 3AN -ICHELE IN &ORO DAILY SUMMER AMnNOON nPM WINTER AMnNOON PMnPM CLOSED DUR
\ ,UCCA 5 3AN -ICHELE
4HE BIRTHPLACE AND FAMILY HOME OF 'IACOMO 0UCCINI THE #ASA DI 0UC CINI 4UESn3UN *UNEn3EPT AMnPM /CTn-AY AMnPM nPM + WWWPUCCINIIT IS IN #ORTE 3AN ,ORENZO OFF 6IA DI 0OGGIO VERY CLOSE TO 3AN -ICHELE n WHERE THE COMPOSERS FATHER AND GRANDFATHER BOTH PLAYED THE ORGAN 4ODAY THE HOUSE IS A SCHOOL OF MUSIC AND MAINTAINS A SMALL MUSEUM CONTAINING THE 3TEINWAY ON WHICH HE WROTE 4URANDOT SCORES PHOTOGRAPHS EVEN HIS OVERCOAT ! SHORT WAY WEST OF 3AN -ICHELE IS 3AN 0AOLINO WHERE 0UCCINI CUT HIS TEETH AS ORGANIST ! DULL "AROQUE CHURCH BEGUN IN IT WAS BUILT OVER A VAST 2OMAN EDIlCE POSSIBLY A TEMPLE AND FOUNDED IN HONOUR OF ,UCCAS lRST BISHOP AND PATRON SAINT 3T 0AULINUS WHOSE REMAINS ARE KEPT BEHIND THE HIGH ALTAR 3OME THIRD RATE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES ARE HIS ONLY MEMORIAL 3OUTH OF 3AN 0AOLINO TUCKED BEHIND THE 0ALAZZO $UCALE IS 3AN 2OMANO A BIG BLUNT 2OMANESQUE HALL PROBABLY FOUNDED IN THE EIGHTH CENTURY AND ADAPTED AND ENLARGED AFTER IN A BIZARRE HOTCHPOTCH OF STYLES IT WOULD BE ONE OF THE CITYS MORE INTERESTING CHURCHES IF THE RESTORATION STARTED IN HAD ACTUALLY SHOWN ANY REAL PROGRESS !T THE MOMENT THE WHOLE PLACE IS SADLY DILAPIDATED .ORTH OF 3AN 0AOLINO IS THE -USEO .AZIONALE DI 0ALAZZO -ANSI 6IA 'ALLI 4ASSI 4UESn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM + JOINT TICKET WITH -USEO 'UINIGI + 4HIS SEVENTEENTH CENTURY BUILDING IS WORTH SEEING FOR ITS MAGNIlCENTLY OVER THE TOP 2OCOCO DECOR FROM A VAST FRESCOED -USIC 3ALON YOU PASS THROUGH THREE DRAWING ROOMS HUNG WITH SEVENTEENTH CENTURY &LEMISH TAPESTRIES TO A SPECTACULARLY GILDED BRIDAL SUITE 2OOMS n IN THE FAR WING HOUSE THE 0INACOTECA .AZIONALE AN ECLECTIC GROUPING OF PICTURES WHOSE REAL HIGHLIGHTS ARE A 0ONTORMO PORTRAIT n POSSIBLY OF !LESSANDRO DE -EDICI SEE P FOR THE DIRT ON THIS SENSITIVE YOUTH "RONZINOS PORTRAIT OF #OSIMO ) THE ARTIST PAINTED SEVERAL VERSIONS OF THIS PORTRAIT TWO MALE PORTRAITS BY 4INTORETTO AND WORKS BY THE 3IENESE -ANNERISTS "ECCAFUMI AND 2UTILIO -ANETTI !LSO WORTH SEEING IS THE SECTION OF THE MUSEUM THAT TRACES THE DEVELOPMENT OF ,UC CAS IMPORTANT TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN PARTICULAR ITS SILKS AND DAMASKS
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4HE WESTERN QUARTER
, 5##! !.$ ./24(% 2. 453 # !.9 ,UCCA
ING SERVICES A CHURCH WITH ONE OF 4USCANYS MOST EXQUISITE FACADES 4HE CHURCH IS lRST MENTIONED IN BUT MOST OF THE PRESENT STRUCTURE DATES FROM BETWEEN AND THE MIDDLE OF THE TWELFTH CENTURY YOU CAN SEE THE DATE MARKED ON A PILLAR ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE MAIN PORTALS TRIUMPHAL ARCH 4HE BUILDING IS UNlNISHED HOWEVER MONEY HAVING BEEN DIVERTED TO THE FACADE BEGUN IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY FUNDS RAN OUT BEFORE THE BODY OF THE CHURCH COULD BE RAISED TO THE STANDARD OF THE FACADE 4HE EFFECT IS WONDERFUL THE UPPER LOGGIAS AND THE WINDOWS FRONTING AIR LIKE THE lGURE OF THE ARCHANGEL AT THEIR SUMMIT )TS 0ISAN INSPIRED INTRICACY IS A TRIUMPH OF ECCENTRICITY MIRRORED IN MANY OF ,UCCAS CHURCHES %ACH OF ITS MYRIAD COLUMNS IS DIFFERENT n SOME TWISTED OTHERS SCULPTED OR CANDY STRIPED 4HE IMPRESSIVE TWELFTH CENTURY CAMPANILE IS THE CITYS TALLEST )T WOULD BE HARD TO MATCH THE FACADES BRAVURA ARCHITECTURAL DISPLAY AND THE INTERIOR BARELY TRIES /N THE REAR WALL IS A STATUE OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD BY LOCAL SCULPTOR -ATTEO #IVITALI PREVIOUSLY ON THE FACADE )TALIANS mOCK FOR SPIR ITUAL REGENERATION TO THE SECOND ALTAR ON THE LEFT THE SO CALLED 2IFUGIO DEI 0EC CATORI 2EFUGE OF 3INNERS /N THE OPPOSITE ALTAR IS A MODEST TERRACOTTA -ADONNA AND #HILD BY !NDREA DELLA 2OBBIA THE BEST WORK OF ART IS A BEAUTIFULLY FRAMED PAINTING OF 33 *EROME 3EBASTIAN 2OCH AND (ELENA BY &ILIPPINO ,IPPI AT THE END OF THE RIGHT HAND NAVE ,OOK OUT ALSO FOR THE ORGAN MARVELLOUSLY PAINTED WITH INTRICATE mEURS DE LYS
$UOMO DI 3AN -ARTINO
, 5##! !.$ ./24(% 2. 453 # !.9
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)T NEEDS A DOUBLE TAKE BEFORE YOU REALIZE WHY THE $UOMO DI 3AN -ARTINO -ONn&RI AMn WINTER CLOSES PM LOOKS ODD 4HE BUILDING IS FRONT ED BY A SEVERELY ASYMMETRIC FACADE ITS RIGHT HAND ARCH AND LOGGIAS SQUEEZED BY THE BELL TOWER WHICH WAS ALREADY IN PLACE FROM AN EARLIER BUILDING .ONETHELESS THE BUILDING SETS THE TONE FOR ,UCCAS OTHER 2OMANESQUE CHURCHES AND LITTLE DETRACTS FROM ITS OVERALL GRANDEUR CREATED BY THE REPETITION OF TINY COLUMNS AND LOGGIAS AND BY THE STUNNING ATRIUM WHOSE BAS RELIEFS ARE SOME OF THE lNEST SCULPTURES IN THE CITY )TS WORTH LOOKING CLOSELY AT THESE CARVINGS SOME DATED AS EARLY AS THE lFTH CENTURY WHICH WERE EXECUTED BY A VARIETY OF MAINLY ,OMBARD ARTISTS MOST OF THEM UNKNOWN 0ART OF THE SCULPTURE IS ATTRIBUTED TO .ICOLA 0ISANO AND MAY WELL BE HIS lRST WORK AFTER ARRIVING IN 4USCANY FROM !PULIA (IS ARE PROBABLY THE OFFERINGS AROUND THE LEFT HAND DOOR THE $EPOSITION IN THE LUNETTE !NNUNCIA TION .ATIVITY AND !DORATION OF THE -AGI /THER PANELS DISPLAY A COMPENDIUM OF SUBJECTS A SYMBOLIC LABYRINTH A 4REE OF ,IFE WITH !DAM AND %VE AT THE BOTTOM AND #HRIST AT THE TOP DRAGONS BEARS A BESTIARY OF GROTESQUES AND THE MONTHS OF THE YEAR WITH THEIR ASSOCIATED ACTIVITIES n $ECEMBER HAS A PARTICULARLY GRAPHIC PIG STICKING 4HE PANELS OF THE ,IFE OF 3T -ARTIN n BETWEEN THE DOORS ARE THE MASTERPIECE OF THE ARCHITECT 'UIDETTO DA #OMO RESPONSIBLE FOR THE UPPER FACADES THREE TIERS OF ARCADES 7ALK ALONG THE mANKS OF THE BUILDING TO TAKE IN THE ORNATE APSE AND TRANSEPTS AS WELL AS THE EXTRAORDINARY PATTERNS OF ARCHES AND MARBLES IN THE BRICKED UP SIDE WALLS /NE OF THE GREATEST OF THE EXTE RIOR SCULPTURES A GROUP DEPICTING 3T -ARTIN ON (ORSEBACK WITH THE "EGGAR BY AN UNKNOWN EARLY FOURTEENTH CENTURY ,OMBARD SCULPTOR HAS BEEN REMOVED INSIDE THE CHURCH AND STANDS AT THE REAR RIGHT AGAINST THE WEST WALL 4HE INTERIOR
4HE $UOMOS INTERIOR IS BEST KNOWN FOR THE CONTRIBUTION OF -ATTEO #IVITALI n WHO ONLY GAVE UP HIS JOB AS A BARBER TO BECOME A SCULPTOR IN HIS MID THIRTIES (ES REPRESENTED HERE BY A COUPLE OF WATER STOUPS NEAR THE ENTRANCE THE PULPITS AND SEVERAL TOMBS AND ALTARS n NOTABLY THE TOMB OF 0IETRO DA .OCETO SECRETARY TO 0OPE .ICCOLO 6 RIGHT WALL OF THE SOUTH TRANSEPT THE TOMB OF $OMENICO "ERTINI TO THE LEFT OF THE PRECEDING TOMB ON THE TRANSEPTS ADJOINING WALL AND THE ALTAR OF 3AN 2EGOLO ON THE CHANCEL WALL IMMEDIATELY RIGHT OF THE APSE #IVITALIS MOST FAMOUS WORK IS THE 4EMPIETTO THE GILT AND MARBLE OCTAGON ENCOUNTERED HALFWAY DOWN THE CHURCH 3OME FANATICALLY INTENSE ACTS OF DEVO TION ARE PERFORMED IN FRONT OF IT DIRECTED AT THE 6OLTO 3ANTO (OLY &ACE ,UCCAS MOST FAMOUS RELIC ! CEDARWOOD #RUCIlX WITH BULGING EYES ITS SAID TO BE A TRUE EFlGY OF #HRIST CARVED BY .ICODEMUS AN EYEWITNESS TO THE #RUCIlX ION BUT IS PROBABLY A THIRTEENTH CENTURY COPY OF AN ELEVENTH CENTURY COPY OF AN EIGHTH CENTURY ORIGINAL ,EGEND HAS IT THAT THE 6OLTO 3ANTO CAME TO ,UCCA OF ITS OWN VOLITION IN lRST JOURNEYING BY BOAT FROM THE (OLY ,AND AND THEN BROUGHT BY OXEN GUIDED BY DIVINE WILL n A STORY SIMILAR TO THE ECCLESIASTICAL SHAM OF 3T *AMESS BONES AT 3ANTIAGO DI #OMPOSTELA IN 3PAIN !S AT 3ANTIAGO THE ICON BROUGHT CONSIDERABLE POWER TO THE LOCAL CHURCH IT MAY BE NO COINCIDENCE THAT IT APPEARED DURING THE BISHOPRIC OF !NSELMO DI "AGGIO WHO WAS LATER ELEVATED TO THE PAPACY 4HE EFlGY ATTRACTED PILGRIMS FROM ALL OVER %UROPE AND INSPIRED DEVOTION IN ALL WHO HEARD OF IT +ING 7ILLIAM 2UFUS OF %NGLAND USED TO SWEAR BY IT h0ER SANCTUM VULTUM DE ,UCCAv ,ONDON MERCHANTS KEPT A COPY OF IT AND IN &RANCE A CERTAIN 3T 6AUDELUC WAS CONJURED INTO EXISTENCE FROM A CORRUP TION OF SAINT VAULT DE ,UCQUES THE &RENCH NAME FOR THE ICON
/CCUPYING A CONVERTED TWELFTH CENTURY BUILDING ACROSS 6IA !RCIVESCOVATO FROM THE CATHEDRAL IS THE -USEO DELLA #ATTEDRALE !PRILn/CT AMnPM .OVn-ARCH -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM + JOINT TICKET WITH THE CATHEDRAL SACRISTY AND 3AN 'IOVANNI + 4HE MUSEUMS FOUR mOORS ARE HOME TO A COLLECTION OF ECCLESIASTICAL AND OTHER EPHEMERA INTERSPERSED WITH THE OCCASIONAL ARTISTIC GEM 2OOM ) HAS A COLLECTION OF ILLUSTRATED MINIATURES WHILE 2OOM )) ON THE mOOR ABOVE HOUSES A RELIQUARY FROM ,IMOGES DECORATED WITH STORIES FROM THE ,IFE OF 3T 4HOMAS Ì "ECKET AN IVORY DIPTYCH FROM #ON STANTINOPLE DATED AND n ONE OF THE HIGHLIGHTS n THE #ROCE DEI 0ISANI AN ORNATE CRUCIlX PROBABLY COMMISSIONED BY 0AOLO 'UINIGI AFTER 2OOM 6)) CONTAINS SCULPTURE FROM THE CATHEDRAL MOST NOTABLY A LARGE STATUE OF 3T *OHN THE %VANGELIST BY *ACOPO DELLA 1UERCIA /N THE NORTH SIDE OF THE SQUARE STANDS THE LARGE BASILICA OF 33 'IOVANNI E 2EPARATA SAME HOURS + JOINT TICKET WITH CATHEDRAL SACRISTY AND -USEO DELLA #ATTEDRALE OR + ,UCCAS ORIGINAL CATHEDRAL UNTIL 2EBUILT MANY TIMES IT PRESERVES A LION mANKED CARVED 2OMANESQUE PORTAL SAVED DURING RESTRUCTURING OF THE FACADE IN )NSIDE EXCAVATIONS HAVE UNCOVERED A TANGLE OF ARCHITECTURAL REMAINS EMBRACING A WIDE RANGE OF MUCH EARLIER BUILDINGS ON THE SITE %ARLIEST FRAGMENTS INCLUDE lRST CENTURY 2OMAN VILLA MOSAICS COLUMNS IN THE PRESENT NAVE ARE MOSTLY 2OMAN IN ORIGIN PARTS OF THE ORIGINAL FOURTH CENTURY CHURCH PAVEMENT AN EIGHTH CENTURY BAPTISTERY WITH lNE CEILING AND TRACES OF A NINTH CENTURY #AROLINGIAN CHURCH AND CRYPT OF 3AN 0ANTALEONE ! SHORT DISTANCE EAST IS THE TWELFTH CENTURY 3ANTA -ARIA &ORISPORTAM hOUTSIDE THE GATEv SIGNALLING THE LIMIT OF THE 2OMAN AND MEDIEVAL CITY UNTIL 2USKIN CLAIMED THAT IT WAS THIS CHURCH THAT SPARKED HIS INTEREST IN MEDI EVAL ARCHITECTURE 4HE FACADE SPORTS JUST TWO UNlNISHED TIERS AND NONE OF ITS RELATIVES DECORATIVE COLUMNS BUT ITS APPEALING FOR ALL THAT WITH A FEW CARVINGS ABOVE THE DOORS AND THE USUAL JUTTING ANIMALS HIGH ON THE FRONT 4HE INTERIOR HAS THE ANGULAR SIMPLICITY OF THE OTHER CHURCHES THOUGH NO PARTICULAR WORKS OF ART
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!ROUND THE $UOMO
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%LSEWHERE IN THE CHURCH THE WORKS OF ART ARE OF LESS DISPUTED ORIGIN 4HE lNEST OF THEM IS THE 4OMB OF )LARIA DEL #ARRETTO n HOUSED IN THE SACRISTY ENTERED MIDWAY DOWN THE SOUTH NAVE !PRILn/CT -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM .OVn-ARCH -ONn &RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM + JOINT TICKET WITH -USEO DELLA #ATTEDRALE AND 3AN 'IOVANNI + #ONSIDERED THE MASTERPIECE OF 3IENESE SCULPTOR *ACOPO DELLA 1UERCIA IT CONSISTS OF A DAIS AND THE SCULPTED BODY OF )LARIA SECOND WIFE OF 0AOLO 'UINIGI ONE OF ,UC CAS MEDIEVAL BIG SHOTS )N A TOUCHING ALMOST SENTIMENTAL GESTURE THE ARTIST HAS CARVED THE FAMILY DOG AT )LARIAS FEET A SYMBOL OF lDELITY 2ESTORATION OF THE WORK IN THE MID S LED TO ACCUSATIONS BY 0ROFESSOR *AMES "ECK THE WORLDS LEADING AUTHORITY ON *ACOPO DELLA 1UERCIA THAT THE RESTORERS CLEANING TECHNIQUES WERE OVERENTHUSIASTIC AND HAD ROBBED THE STONE OF ITS VARIEGATED TEXTURES !LSO WITHIN THE SACRISTY IS A SUPERB -ADONNA %NTHRONED WITH 3AINTS BY $OMENICO 'HIRLANDAIO /THER PICTORIAL HIGHLIGHTS OF THE CATHEDRAL INCLUDE A -ADONNA AND #HILD IN THE ENCLOSED CHAPEL TO THE LEFT OF THE HIGH ALTAR IN THE NORTH TRANSEPT PAINTED IN BY &RA "ARTOLOMMEO )N THE MAIN PART OF THE $UOMO THE lRST CHAPEL ON THE LEFT HAS A 0RESENTATION OF THE 6IRGIN BY !LESSANDRO !LLORI AND THE THIRD ALTAR ON THE RIGHT A ,AST 3UPPER BY 4INTORETTO
.ORTH TO 3AN &REDIANO
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.ORTH OF THE $UOMO 6IA &ILLUNGO CUTS THROUGH ,UCCAS LUXURY SHOPPING DISTRICT A TIGHT HUDDLE OF STREETS AND ALLEYS WHERE MEDIEVAL FRAGMENTS AND BRICKED UP LOGGIAS COMPETE WITH ,IBERTY STYLE SHOP FRONTS AND LUNCHTIME AND EARLY EVENING THRONGS !MID THE CROWDS ITS EASY TO MISS THE GORGEOUS FACADE OF 3AN #RISTOFORO THE DECONSECRATED CHURCH AT THE SOUTHERN END INSIDE THE LEFT HAND WALL IS COMPLETELY COVERED IN WRITING n THE NAMES OF ,UCCAS DEAD IN THE TWO WORLD WARS &ARTHER ON IS THE 4ORRE DELLE /RE THE CITYS CLOCK TOWER SINCE THEN AT NO THERES THE FAMOUS #AFFÒ DI 3IMO A BAR WORTH THE PRICE OF A DRINK JUST FOR THE EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURY AMBIENCE "EYOND THE STREET BRANCHES INTO A WARREN OF LANES THAT LEAD TO 0IAZZA 3AN &REDIANO 3AN &REDIANO
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4HE CHURCH OF 3AN &REDIANO -ONn3AT AMnNOON nPM 3UN AMnPM CLOSED DURING SERVICES FREE IS AGAIN 0ISAN 2OMANESQUE BUILT BETWEEN AND ON THE SITE OF A SIXTH CENTURY BASILICA OF 3AN 6INCENZO BUT ORIENTATED BACK TO FRONT WEST FACING PROBABLY BECAUSE THE OLD ENTRANCE WOULD HAVE BEEN BLOCKED BY THE NEW SET OF MEDIEVAL CITY WALLS NEARBY )N PLACE OF THE CHARACTERISTIC MULTIPLE LOGGIAS OF ,UCCAS OTHER GREAT FACADES IS A MAG NIlCENT THIRTEENTH CENTURY MOSAIC OF 4HE !SCENSION WITH THE APOSTLES GATHERED BELOW 4HE INTERIOR LIVES UP TO THE FACADES PROMISE n A DELICATELY LIT HALL LIKE BASILI CA WITH SUBTLY VARIED COLUMNS AND CAPITALS AND SOME lNE TREASURES )MMEDIATELY FACING THE DOOR IS ONE OF THE BEST THE &ONTE ,USTRALE A HUGE TWELFTH CENTURY PIECE EXECUTED BY THREE DIFFERENT CRAFTSMEN 4HE lRST AN UNKNOWN ,OMBARD CARVED THE STORIES OF -OSES ON THE OUTER SLABS OF THE BASIN INCLUDING A SUPERB #ROSSING OF THE 2ED 3EA WITH THE %GYPTIAN SOLDIERS DEPICTED AS MEDIEVAL KNIGHTS 4HE SECOND ONE -AESTRO 2OBERTO ADDED THE 'OOD 3HEPHERD AND SIX PROPHETS ON THE OTHER TWO BASIN SLABS THEIR ENFRAMING ARCHES SHOWING A CLEAR "YZANTINE INmUENCE 4O THE THIRD SCULPTOR AN UNKNOWN 4USCAN IS OWED THE DECORATION
! WALK AROUND THE WALLS
#LIMBING UP AT ANY OF THE BASTIONS SOME OF WHICH ARE SIGNPOSTED YOU CAN FOLLOW THE FOUR KILOMETRE CIRCUIT OF THE CITY WALLS EITHER ON BIKE OR ON FOOT 4HE MID AFTERNOON SHUTDOWN IS PERHAPS THE BEST TIME TO WALK THEIR BROAD PROMENADE WHICH IS LINED SUCCESSIVELY WITH PLANE LIME ILEX AND CHESTNUT TREES #ONSTRUCTION OF THE WALLS STARTED AROUND PROMPTED BY THE NEED TO REPLACE MEDIEVAL RAMPARTS RENDERED INADEQUATE BY ADVANCES IN WEAPON TECHNOLOGY "Y THE WORK WAS COMPLETED WITH ELEVEN BASTIONS TO FORTIFY WALLS THAT WERE M WIDE AT THE BASE M HIGH AND SURROUNDED BY MOATS M ACROSS 4HERE WERE ORIGINALLY JUST THREE GATES 0ERHAPS THE BEST FEATURE FROM THE PRESENT DAY PERSPECTIVE WAS THE DESTRUCTION OF ALL TREES AND BUILDINGS WITHIN A COUPLE OF HUNDRED METRES OF THE WALLS CREATING A GREEN BELT OF LAWNS THAT HAS SHIELDED THE OLD TOWN FROM THE UGLINESS THATS SPROUTED ON THE OUTSIDE )RONICALLY HAVING PRODUCED A PERFECT SET OF WALLS ,UCCA WAS NEVER CALLED ON TO DEFEND THEM 4HE ONLY SIEGE WAS AGAINST THE mOODWATERS OF THE 2IVER 3ERCHIO IN WHEN THE GATES WERE SEALED AGAINST THE DELUGE THAT HAD mOODED THE COUNTRYSIDE .APOLEONS SISTER AND CITY GOVERNOR %LISA "ACIOCCHI ONE OF THE LAST PEOPLE ALLOWED IN HAD TO BE WINCHED OVER THE RAMPARTS BY CRANE -ARIE ,OUISE OF "OURBON HER SUCCESSOR HAD THE WALLS TRANSFORMED TO THEIR PRESENT GARDEN ASPECT ARRANGING THEM AS THE LOCAL TOURIST HANDOUT PUTS IT hWITH UNPARALLELED GOOD TASTE AND MODERATIONv
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OF THE !POSTLES AND THE -ONTHS ON THE CUP ABOVE THE BASIN AND THE BEAUTI FUL FANTASY MASKS FROM WHICH THE WATER IS DISGORGED 3ET BEHIND THE FONT IS AN !NNUNCIATION ATTRIBUTED TO -ATTEO DELLA 2OBBIA FESTOONED WITH TRAILING GARLANDS OF CERAMIC FRUIT ! lGURE OF 3T "ARTHOLOMEW BY !NDREA DELLA 2OBBIA IS TO BE FOUND LOWER DOWN TO THE LEFT CLOSE TO THE LEFT HAND OF THE TWO CHAPELS BEHIND THE FONT THE #APPELLA &ATINELLI WHICH HOUSES THE INCORRUPT BODY OF 3T :ITA DIED ! ,UCCHESE MAIDSERVANT :ITA ACHIEVED SAINTHOOD FROM A FORTUITOUS WHITE LIE SHE USED TO GIVE BREAD FROM HER HOUSEHOLD TO THE POOR AND WHEN CHALLENGED ONE DAY BY HER BOSS AS TO THE CONTENTS OF HER APRON REPLIED hONLY ROSES AND mOWERSv n INTO WHICH THE BREAD WAS DULY TRANSFORMED 3HE IS COMMEMORATED ON !PRIL BY A mOWER MARKET OUTSIDE THE CHURCH AND BY THE ,UCCHESI FREEING HER OF HER lNERY AND BRINGING HER OUT TO TOUCH -OVING TO THE TOP OF THE CHURCH NOTE THE WONDERFUL TWELFTH CENTURY #OS MATI MARBLE PAVEMENT OF THE PRESBYTERY WHILE ON THE LEFT ARE FRAGMENTS OF THE ORIGINAL TOMB OF 3AN &REDIANO AN )RISH MONK WHO IS SAID TO HAVE BROUGHT #HRISTIANITY TO ,UCCA IN THE SIXTH CENTURY -OVING BACK DOWN THE LEFT NORTH NAVE FROM THE HIGH ALTAR THE lRST CHAPEL THE #APPELLA 4RENTA CONTAINS A SUPERB CARVED ALTARPIECE WITH NICHE STATUES OF THE -ADONNA #HILD AND 3AINTS BY *ACOPO DELLA 1UERCIA THE WORN PAVEMENT TOMBS OF THE CHAPELS DONORS ,ORENZO 4RENAT AND HIS WIFE ARE ALSO BY DELLA 1UERCIA 4HE BEST FRESCOES IN THE CITY ADORN THE #APPELLA DI 3ANT!GOSTINO THE NEXT CHAPEL BUT ONE !MICO !SPERTINIS 4HE !RRIVAL OF THE 6OLTO 3ANTO AND 4HE "AP TISM OF 3T !UGUSTINE ON THE LEFT WALL AND 4HE -IRACLE OF 3T &REDIANO ON THE RIGHT THE LAST DEPICTING THE 2IVER 3ERCHIO IN mOOD BEING DIVERTED BY THE SAINTS CRIB $ATING FROM THE EARLY SIXTEENTH CENTURY THE MURALS ARE PAINTED IN A STYLE THAT IS MUCH INmUENCED BY THE REALISM OF &LEMISH AND 'ERMAN PAINTERS 4HE LARGE FRESCO OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD ON THE RIGHT OF THE ENTRANCE DOOR IS ALSO BY !SPERTINI WHILE THE NEARBY STATUE 6IRGIN !NNUNCIATE IS BY -ATTEO #IVITALI 0ALAZZO 0FANNER
.EAR 3AN &REDIANO IS THE 0ALAZZO 0FANNER 6IA DEGLI !SILI -ARCHn.OV DAILY AMnPM + WHOSE INTERESTING REAR LOGGIA AND STATUED GARDENS ARE ALSO VISIBLE FROM THE CITY WALLS AS IS ANOTHER lNE CHURCH 3ANT!GOSTINO 4HE PALAZZO HOSTS TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS 0IAZZA !NlTEATRO AND AROUND
%AST OF 3AN &REDIANO IS THE REMARKABLE 0IAZZA !NlTEATRO AERIAL SHOTS OF WHICH FEATURE IN JUST ABOUT ALL OF ,UCCAS TOURIST LITERATURE ! RAMSHACKLE CIRCUIT OF MEDIEVAL BUILDINGS AS YET UNPRETTIlED IT INCORPORATES ELEMENTS OF THE 2OMAN AMPHITHEATRE THAT ONCE STOOD HERE -UCH OF THE ORIGINAL STONE WAS CARTED OFF IN THE TWELFTH CENTURY TO BUILD THE CITYS CHURCHES WHILE PARTS OF THE OLD STRUCTURE WERE USED AS A MEDIEVAL PRISON AND SALT WAREHOUSE BUT ARCHES AND COLUMNS CAN STILL BE SEEN EMBEDDED IN SOME OF THE HOUSES PARTICULARLY ON THE NORTH SIDE OF THE OUTER WALLS -EDIEVAL SLUMS USED TO OCCUPY THE CENTRE OF THE ARENA BUT THESE WERE CLEARED IN ON THE ORDERS OF THE "OURBON RULER -ARIE ,OUISE ! COUPLE OF BLOCKS EAST IS 3AN 0IETRO 3OMALDI ITS DELICATE FACADE DATING FROM THIS TIME STONE ON THE LOWER LEVELS TOPPED WITH TWO TIERS OF 0ISAN MARBLING AND TINY COLUMNS !BOVE THE LOVELY PORTAL IS A GOOD CARVED FRIEZE EXECUTED BY 'UIDO DA #OMO IN *ESUS 'IVING THE +EYS TO 3T 0ETER AND THE CUSTOMARY PAIR OF LIONS COMMON SYMBOLS FOR THE 2ESURRECTION IN MEDIEVAL ART n AFTER THE BELIEF THAT CUBS WHEN BORN LAY DEAD FOR THREE DAYS UNTIL A MALE LION BROUGHT THEM TO LIFE BY BREATHING IN THEIR FACES 4HE CHURCHS INTERIOR IS WHITEWASHED AND BLANK
SAVE FOR A SUMPTUOUS DETACHED FRESCO OF THE !SSUMPTION ON THE RIGHT WALL AND AN UNCREDITED lFTEENTH CENTURY WORK ABOVE THE lRST LEFT HAND ALTAR 4ORRE 'UINIGI
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4HE 4ORRE 'UINIGI DAILY -ARCHn3EPT AMnPM /CT AMnPM .OVn&EB AMnPM + SOUTH OF 3AN 0IETRO IN 6IA 3ANT!NDREA IS THE STRANGEST SIGHT IN ,UCCAS CITYSCAPE 4HIS BATTLEMENTED TOWER ATTACHED TO THE lFTEENTH CENTURY #ASA 'UINIGI TOWN HOUSE OF ,UCCAS LEADING FAMILY IS SUR MOUNTED BY AN ANCIENT HOLM OAK WHOSE ROOTS HAVE GROWN INTO THE ROOM BELOW 9OU CAN CLIMB THE METRE TOWER ENTERING ON 6IA 3ANT!NDREA FOR A CLOSE UP OF THE TREE AND EASILY THE BEST VIEW OVER THE CITY 4HE ADJACENT FORTRESS WHICH HAS SOME WONDERFUL AUSTERE MEDIEVAL DETAILS FRONTS A STARTLING NUMBER OF STREETS 4HE EASTERN QUARTER
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4HE CITYS CANAL AND PARALLEL ROAD THE 6IA DEL &OSSO MARK THE ENTRY TO ,UCCAS MORE LACKLUSTRE EASTERN MARGINS 4HE MOST ATTRACTIVE PART OF THIS QUARTER IS THE /RTO "OTANICO -ONn&RI AMnPM !PRILn/CT ALSO 3AT 3UN AMnPM nPM + AT THE SOUTHERN END OF 6IA DEL &OSSO AN EXTENSIVE PATCH OF GREEN LAID OUT IN WHICH NEATLY COMPLEMENTS THE RAMPARTS 'REEN lNGERED VISITORS SHOULD ENJOY SOME OF THE RARER EXHIBITS ESPE CIALLY THE MEDICINAL PLANTS THE SEQUOIA GINGKO TREE CAMPHOR TREE AND A CEDAR OF ,EBANON PLANTED AT THE GARDENS OPENING /THERWISE THE ONLY SIGNIlCANT SIGHTS ARE IN THE NORTH OF THIS QUARTER AROUND THE CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCESCO FRONTED BY A RELATIVELY SIMPLE FACADE AND ADJOIN ING A CRUMBLING BRICK CONVENT 4HE INSIDE OF THE CHURCH IS A VAST EMPTY BARN RELIEVED ONLY BY A DELICATE ROSE WINDOW SOME LOVELY INLAID CHOIR STALLS AND lNE BUT DAMAGED &LORENTINE FRESCO FRAGMENTS TO THE RIGHT OF THE HIGH ALTAR DEPICTING THE -ARRIAGE AND 0RESENTATION OF THE 6IRGIN !CROSS THE STREET FROM 3AN &RANCESCO IS THE MUCH RESTORED 6ILLA 'UINIGI BUILT TO SUPPLEMENT THE FAMILYS MEDIEVAL TOWN HOUSE )TS NOW HOME TO ,UCCAS MAJOR MUSEUM THE -USEO .AZIONALE DI 6ILLA 'UINIGI 4UESn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM + JOINT TICKET WITH 0ALAZZO -ANSI + AN EXTREMELY VARIED COLLECTION OF PAINTING SCULPTURE FURNITURE AND APPLIED ARTS 4HE LOWER mOOR IS MAINLY SCULPTURE AND ARCHEOLOGICAL lNDS WITH NUMEROUS 2OMANESQUE PIECES AND WORKS BY DELLA 1UERCIA AND -AT TEO #IVITALI 5PSTAIRS THE GALLERY MOVES ON TO PAINTINGS WITH LOTS OF BIG SIXTEENTH CENTURY CANVASES AND MORE IMPRESSIVE WORKS BY EARLY ,UCCHESE AND 3IENESE MASTERS AS WELL AS lNE 2ENAISSANCE OFFERINGS FROM ARTISTS SUCH AS &RA "ARTOLOMMEO
%ATING AND DRINKING
!S A WEALTHY GASTRONOMIC CENTRE ,UCCA HAS SOME HIGH QUALITY RESTAURANTS ,OCAL SPECIALITIES OFTEN FEATURE ZUPPA DI FARRO A THICK SOUP OF FARRO AN ANCIENT VARIETY OF GRAIN GROWN IN THE 'ARFAGNANA OTHER DISHES INCLUDE ROAST MOUNTAIN GOAT CAPRETTO AND PUDDINGS BASED ON CHESTNUT mOUR SUCH AS CASTAGNACCIO &OR SIXTY TYPES OF BREAD ROLLS OR DELICIOUS FOCACCIA FRESHLY BAKED EVERY TWO HOURS HEAD FOR &ORNO !MEDEO 'IUSTI 6IA 3ANTA ,UCIA n ,A #ACIOTECA 6IA &ILLUNGO SELLS A WIDE VARIETY OF CHEESES AND TWO PLACES ON 0IAZZA 3AN -ICHELE ARE WORTH A CALL 0IZZERIA 0ELLEGRINI NO FOR EXCELLENT PIZZA BY THE SLICE AND 0ASTIC CERIA 4ADDEUCCI NO PARTLY FOR ITS CAKES THE ANISEED AND RAISIN BUCCELLATO IS THE TRADITIONAL FAVOURITE PARTLY FOR ITS WOOD PANELLED AND MOSAIC TILED INTERIOR #ANIPAROLI IN 6IA 3AN 0AOLINO IS A WONDERFUL CHOCOLATE SHOP
#AFÏS AND BARS
2ESTAURANTS
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"UCA DI 3ANT!NTONIO 6IA DELLA #ERVIA ,UCCAS lNEST RESTAURANT HAS BEEN AROUND FOR OVER TWO HUNDRED YEARS AND STILL RETAINS SOME OF ITS OLD WORLD CHARM %XCELLENT SERVICE TOP QUALITY MEAT OR lSH MENU AND DELICIOUS HOUSE PASTA AND DESSERTS SUCH AS SEMIFREDDO "UCCELLATO !ROUND + A HEAD #LOSED 3UN EVE -ON BOOKING ESSENTIAL #ANULEIA 6IA #ANULEIA /RIGI NAL DISHES WITH PLENTY OF VEGGIE OPTIONS SERVED IN A CONVERTED MEDIEVAL WORKSHOP WITH NO MORE THAN TEN TABLES 'OOD VALUE AT + A HEAD GIVEN THE QUALITY ,OCATED CLOSE TO 0IAZZA !NlTEATRO #LOSED 3AT 3UN $A 'UIDO 6IA #ESARE "ATTISTI ! SMALL LOCALS HANGOUT AND MORE LIKE AN EXTENDED BAR THAN A RESTAURANT THIS IS ONE OF THE CHEAPEST PLACES IN TOWN FOR BASIC ,UCCHESE NOSH #LOSED 3UN $A ,EO 6IA 4EGRIMI !NOTHER GOOD VALUE FAMILY RUN PLACE NEAR 0IAZZA 3AN -ICHELE WHICH PRESERVES THE AUTHENTIC LOOK AND FEEL OF AN OLD FASHIONED TRATTORIA #LOSED 3UN EVE 'LI /RTI DI 6IA %LISA 6IA %LISA 0OPULAR PIZZERIATRATTORIA WITH WONDERFUL RISOTTOS
AND SOME VEGETARIAN DISHES OPEN EVENINGS ONLY #LOSED 7ED ,A -ORA 6IA 3ESTO DI -ORIANO ,OCALITÌ 0ONTE -ORIANO WWWRISTORANTELAMORA COM 4HE BEST PLACE LOCALLY KM NORTH OF TOWN ALONG THE RIVER )TS SUBLIME REGIONAL COOKING AND EXTENSIVE WINE LIST ENJOY A -ICHELIN STAR 3ET MENU + #LOSED 7ED ,OCANDA $I "ACCO VIA 3AN 'IORGIO 4HIS RESTAURANT WITH LOVELY WOOD PANELLED INTERIOR DOES QUALITY FOOD AT GOOD PRICES 3PECIALITIES INCLUDE SALT COD WITH CHICKPEAS /STERIA "ARALLA 6IA !NlTEATRO 3OMETHING OF AN INSTITUTION IN ,UCCA THIS TRADI TIONAL OSTERIA SERVES SIMPLE LOCAL FOOD AT MODERATE PRICES /CCASIONAL LIVE MUSIC #LOSED 3UN 2ISTORANTE 0UCCINI #ORTE 3AN ,ORENZO !NOTHER OF ,UCCAS TOP NOTCH RESTAURANTS WITH A WELCOMING INTERIOR EXCELLENT SERVICE AND IMAGINATIVE SEAFOOD MENU #LOSED 7ED EVE 4UES 3LIM *ONES #ORTE #AMPAGNA -ODERN BURGER JOINT ALSO SERVING HUGE SALADS AS A MAIN COURSE n A RARE lND IN 4USCANY ! GOOD LUNCH STOP #LOSED 3UN 4RATTORIA "URALLI 0IAZZA 3ANT!GOSTINO 4RADITIONAL TRATTORIA WITH A WIDE CHOICE OF HOME STYLE LOCAL COOKING AND A SELEC TION OF WINES FROM THE ,UCCHESI HILLS #LOSED 4UES 7ED 5FFA "ARUFFA #ORTE #AMPANA *UST OFF THE 0IAZZA 3AN -ICHELE THIS BRIGHT AND BREEZY RESTAURANT WITH A SUMMER VERANDA SPECIAL IZES IN RABBIT AND LAMB AND OTHER 4USCAN DISHES 2ECKON ON AROUND + A HEAD )TS ALSO ONE OF THE FEW PLACES OPEN FOR A DRINK LATE IN THE EVENING IN WINTER
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!NTICO #AFFÒ DI 3IMO 6IA &ILLUNGO ,UCCAS FAMOUS CENTURY OLD LOCALE WITH ORIGINAL LIBERTY STYLE FURNISHINGS AND DELICIOUS CAKES AND PASTRIES ,%NOTECA 6IA 6ITTORIA %MANUELE 0OPULAR LOCAL HANGOUT SERVING BEER WINE AND SANDWICHES #LOSED 4UES -IRÛ 6IA DEL &OSSO ,ATE NIGHT BAR WITH LIVE JAZZ AND BLUES #LOSED -ON
,ISTINGS "ANKS AND EXCHANGE !T THE TRAIN STATION DAILY AMnPM MOST CITY BANKS AND ALSO ,UCCA #HANGE 0IAZZA .APOLEONE AND -ONEY #HANGE 6IA 3AN 0AOLINO AND IN 0IAZZA 3AN -ICHELE "IKE RENTAL 4HE TOURIST OFlCE IN 0IAZZALE 6ERDI "ARBETTI #ICLI 6IA DELL!NlTEATRO #ICLI "IZZARRI OR "ICICLETTE 0OLI EITHER SIDE OF THE TOURIST OFlCE IN 0IAZZA 3ANTA -ARIA "ICICLETTE CRONO ON #ORSO 'ARIBALDI "USES 6AIBUS WWWVAIBUSIT OPERATES OUT OF 0IAZZALE ' 6ERDI AND RUNS AN EXTENSIVE NETWORK IN THE REGION 3EE h4RAVEL DETAILSv AT THE END OF THE CHAPTER FOR ROUTE INFORMATION
(OSPITAL #AMPO DI -ARTE 6IA DELL/SPEDALE ,OST PROPERTY !T THE #OMUNE 5FlCIO %CONOMATO 6IA #ESARE "ATTISTI -ARKET ! VAST ANTIQUES MARKET TAKES PLACE ON THE THIRD WEEKEND OF THE MONTH IN AND AROUND 0IAZZA 3AN -ARTINO 0OLICE 1UESTURA 6IA #AVOUR 0OST OFlCE 6IA 6ALLISNERI -ONn3AT AMn PM 4AXIS 2ADIO TAXI
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!S WITH &LORENCES HINTERLAND ,UCCAS SURROUNDINGS ARE DOTTED WITH OUTSTAND ING VILLAS BUILT BY WEALTHY MERCHANTS AS RETREATS FROM THE RIGOURS OF CITY LIFE OR SIMPLY AS AN INDULGENCE ON THE PART OF ARISTOCRATIC LANDOWNERS 3OME OF THESE STARTED LIFE AS SIMPLE COUNTRY HOUSES OTHERS HAD GRANDIOSE AMBITIONS FROM THE WORD GO MOST HAVE BEEN REPEATEDLY ALTERED SINCE THEIR CONSTRUCTION -ANY INVOLVED THE LEADING ARCHITECTS OF THEIR DAY EITHER IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE VILLAS THEMSELVES OR IN THE DESIGN OF THE MAGNIlCENT GARDENS THAT ACCOMPA NIED THEM 4HREE OF THE VILLAS n 6ILLA 2EALE 6ILLA -ANSI AND 6ILLA 4ORRIGIANI ALSO KNOWN AS THE 6ILLA DI #AMIGLIANO n LIE WITHIN A TEN KILOMETRE RADIUS OF ,UCCA TO THE NORTHEAST THEY CAN ALL BE REACHED IN A HOUR OR SO BY BIKE 3LIGHTLY FARTHER AlELD IS THE 6ILLA 'ARZONI AT #OLLODI WHICH COMPETES FOR ATTENTION WITH THE 0ARCO DI 0INOCCHIO AN ATTRACTION ADVERTISED ON ROADSIDE HOARDINGS ALL OVER 4USCANY
6ILLA 2EALE
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"Y GENERAL CONSENT THE 6ILLA 2EALE AT -!2,)! IS THE MOST BEAUTIFUL OF THE VILLAS CLOSE TO ,UCCA !CCESS IS VIA THE 33 FROM ,UCCA TO "ARGA TURNING OFF TO -ARLIA AFTER KM A LESS DIRECT BUT BETTER SIGNPOSTED ROUTE TAKES THE 33 FOR -ONTECATINI 4ERME WITH A LEFT TURN AFTER KM ALSO SIGNED FOR THE VILLA 4HE 6ILLA 2EALES LIFE AS A COUNTRY HOUSE STARTED WITH THE DESTRUCTION OF A FORTRESS ON THIS SITE IN THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY ITS lRST GARDENS BEING LAID OUT A CENTURY LATER 4HE PRESENT .EOCLASSICAL LOOK DATES FROM WHEN .APOLEONS SISTER %LISA "ACIOCCHI COMPELLED THE /RSETTI FAMILY TO SELL UP (AVING OUSTED THE OWNERS SHE AND HER PERSONAL ARCHITECT -OREL SET ABOUT A RADICAL REMOULDING OF THE VILLA AND GARDEN COMPLETELY REFURBISHING THE INTERIOR AND PLANNING AN %NGLISH PARK COMPLETE WITH HUGE MONUMENTAL LAKE 3OME OF THE GARDENS MOST IMPORTANT EARLIER lXTURES WERE RESPECTED THOUGH .APOLEONS DOWNFALL AND %LISAS SUBSEQUENT EVICTION UNDOUBTEDLY SAVED OTHER OLDER COMPONENTS FROM DESTRUCTION 3ADLY THE VIGOUR OF COURT LIFE AT THE 6ILLA 2EALE ALSO VANISHED WITH %LISA 4HE VIOLINIST 0AGANINI HAD BEEN EMPLOYED AS RESIDENT COMPOSER HE WAS LATER KNOWN TO CLAIM HIS PLAYING HAD CAUSED HIS PATRONESS TO SWOON WITH ECSTASY /NLY THE GARDEN IS OPEN TO THE PUBLIC AND ONLY ON GUIDED TOURS -ARCHn .OV 4UESn3UN HOURLY AMnPM $ECn&EB BOOKINGS ONLY + )TS MOST STRIKING ASPECT IS THE SWEEPING LAWN THAT RUNS FROM THE HOUSE DOWN TO THE LAKE A FEATURE OF THE ORIGINAL LAYOUT THAT WAS ENLARGED UNDER THE "ACIOCCHI REGIME 4O ITS LEFT SET DEEP IN THE WOODS IS THE 'ROTTO OF 0AN AN ELABORATE TWO STOREY HIDEAWAY WITH MOSAIC mOOR MUCH TRAILING GREENERY AND A CEILING OF STONE PLANTS AND mOWERS 4HE HIDDEN FOUNTAINS WHICH ONCE SPRAYED THE UNWARY ARE REGRETTABLY NO LONGER WORKING 4O ONE SIDE OF THE LAWN AN AVENUE OF ILEX TREES LEADS TO THE HEART OF THE ORIGINAL GARDEN CENTRED ON A TRIO OF GARDEN ROOMS WHICH BECOME PROGRESSIVELY MORE CONlNED 4HE lRST HAS A COLLECTION OF LEMON TREES AND A POOL ON WHICH SWANS DRIFT THE SECOND FEATURES A HIGH SPOUTING FOUNTAIN THE THIRD IS A TINY AND INTIMATE hGREEN THEATREv ITS ORCHESTRA PIT AND SEATS ALL MADE OF BOX AND YEW HEDGES AND EDGED WITH A VARIETY OF EXOTIC mORA
6ILLA -ANSI
0ERHAPS THE LEAST INTERESTING OF THE VILLA QUARTET IS THE 6ILLA -ANSI AT 3%' 2/-)'./ KM EAST OF -ARLIA /RIGINALLY A PLAIN SIXTEENTH CENTURY COUNTRY
6ILLA 4ORRIGIANI
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!T #!-)',)!./ KM FROM THE 6ILLA -ANSI THE 6ILLA 4ORRIGIANI OR 6ILLA DI #AMIGLIANO -ARCH TO EARLY 3EPT -ON 7EDn3UN AMnPM PMnPM GARDEN AND VILLA + GARDEN ONLY + WAS BUILT FOR THE "UONVISI FAMILY IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY AND TRANSFORMED ALMOST ENTIRELY BY !LFONSO 4ORRIGIANI IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY TO CONFORM WITH THE PREVAILING TASTE FOR VILLAS AND GARDENS IN THE %NGLISH MANNER 4HOUGH LITTLE FROM THE ORIGINAL SURVIVES THE PRESENT ENSEMBLE IS A lNE EXAMPLE OF LESS FORMAL GAR DEN DESIGN &ROM ,UCCA TAKE THE 33 FOR -ONTECATINI 4ERME AND FORK LEFT AT "ORGONUOVO KM 4HE VILLA IS CLEARLY SIGNED FROM #AMIGLIANO ! MAGNIlCENT AVENUE OF CYPRESSES LEADS TO THE VILLAS STATELY "AROQUE FACADE ADORNED WITH A SIMILAR SURFEIT OF STATUARY TO THE 6ILLA -ANSIS /DDI WAS PROBABLY THE ARCHITECT HERE TOO 4HE INTERIOR HAS BEEN SLIGHTLY DIMINISHED BY A SPATE OF THEFTS BUT THERES STILL A WEALTH OF FURNITURE AND SOME ODD POINTS OF PASSING INTEREST 4HE EXTRAVAGANTLY DECORATED CENTRAL HALL AND THE ELLIPTICAL STAIRCASE ARE OUTSTANDING BOTH PRODUCTS OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY MODIlCATIONS 4HE GARDENS AND LARGER PARK ALONGSIDE ARE COMPLEX AND BEAUTIFUL AFFAIRS NOTED ABOVE ALL FOR THEIR GIOCHI DACQUA WATER GAMES )NTENDED TO DRENCH UNSUSPECTING VISITORS WITH HIDDEN SPRAYS AND FOUNTAINS ACTIVATED BY THE OWNER OR BY THE PRESSURE OF FOOTSTEPS ON LEVERED mAGSTONES THESE TRICKS WERE ESPECIALLY POPULAR WITH -ANNERIST GARDENERS BUT IN FACT WERE lRST USED IN 2OMAN TIMES 4HE DEVICES HERE INITIATED BY THE FUN LOVING -ARQUIS .ICCOLÛ 3ANTINI n ,UC CAS AMBASSADOR TO THE COURT OF ,OUIS 8)6 n ARE AMONG THE lNEST EXAMPLES STILL FUNCTIONING 4HEYRE ALL CONTAINED IN THE 'ARDEN OF &LORA A SUNKEN GARDEN TO THE EAST OF THE VILLA n ALL THAT HAS SURVIVED THE GARDENS EIGHTEENTH CENTURY ANGLICIZATION 4HE -ARQUIS WOULD lRST HERD HIS GUESTS INTO THE GARDEN FROM AN UPPER TERRACE WHEREUPON THEY WOULD lND THEIR PATH BLOCKED BY A WALL OF SPRAY !TTEMPTING TO RETREAT BACK DOWN THE BEAUTIFUL PEBBLE MOSAIC PATH THEY WOULD DISCOVER THAT THIS TOO WAS NOW AWASH WITH WATER 3EEKING SANCTUARY ON THE ROOF OF THE 4EMPLE OF &LORA A SMALL CUPOLA TOPPED GROTTO THEY WOULD BLUNDER INTO THE BIGGEST SOAKING OF ALL AS WATER GUSHED FROM THE DOMED ROOF FROM THE FOUR STATUES SET IN THE WALLS REPRESENTING THE FOUR WINDS AND AS IF THIS WERENT ENOUGH SHOT UP FROM THE mOOR AS WELL )N FROSTS DAMAGED SOME OF THE UNDERGROUND PIPING BUT THE GARDENERS OCCASIONALLY PROVIDE IMPROMPTU DEM ONSTRATIONS OF THE TEMPLES AQUATIC SURPRISES
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HOUSE THE VILLA WAS ENLARGED IN BY -UZIO /DDI AND EXPANDED MANY TIMES IN SUBSEQUENT CENTURIES 4HE HARMONIOUS LATE 2ENAISSANCE FACADE REMAINS MUCH ADORNED WITH STATUARY AND mANKED BY TWO PAVILIONS JOINING THE THREE ARCHED PORTICO 4HE GARDEN 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM WINTER CLOSES PM VILLA AND GARDEN + HAS SUFFERED MORE BRUTAL TREATMENT 4HE FEW EARLY SECTIONS THAT REMAIN INTACT ARE THE BEST THE &RENCH INSPIRED EASTERN PART WITH ITS STAR SHAPED AVENUES AND IRREGULAR ARRANGEMENT OF FOUNTAINS AND BASINS AND THE WESTERN PART LAID OUT BETWEEN AND BY THE 3ICILIAN ARCHITECT &ILIPPO *UVARRA n THE MAN WHO REFASHIONED 4URIN !T THE BEGINNING OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY MUCH OF *UVARRAS GEOMETRIC WORK WAS REPLACED BY HAPHAZARD BOR ROWINGS FROM %NGLISH GARDEN DESIGN )NNOVATIONS BY THE PRESENT OWNERS HAVE CONTINUED THE GARDENS DUBIOUS DEVELOPMENT
#OLLODI AND AROUND 7HEN IN #ARLO ,ORENZINI PUBLISHED THE lRST INSTALMENT OF THE CHILDRENS BOOK THAT WAS TO MAKE HIM FAMOUS HE USED THE PEN NAME #ARLO #OLLODI
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IN HONOUR OF HIS MOTHERS BIRTHPLACE A SMALL TOWN KM EAST OF ,UCCA !ND SO WHEREAS OTHER 4USCAN TOWNS ARE DEVOTED TO A PATRON SAINT #/,,/$) HAS DEDICATED ITSELF TO A LIVING PUPPET WITH AN ERECTILE NOSE n 0INOCCHIO 4O %NGLISH SPEAKERS REARED ON THE $ISNEY VERSION ITS DIFlCULT TO APPRECIATE THE REVERENCE ACCORDED 0INOCCHIO IN HIS HOMELAND WHERE THE TALES MORAL SIMPLIC ITY AND EXEMPLARY 4USCAN PROSE ENSURES IT A MASSIVE FOLLOWING )TS INDICATIVE OF 0INOCCHIOS STANDING THAT AN )TALIAN NATIONAL NEWSPAPER POLL ONCE SHORTLISTED THE BOOK AS A CONTENDER FOR THE TITLE OF h'REATEST .OVEL OF !LL 4IMEv AND THAT ACTOR DIRECTOR 2OBERT "ENIGNI LAVISHED SO MUCH ATTENTION ON HIS lLM VER SION THAT IT ENDED UP BEING THE MOST EXPENSIVE lLM EVER MADE IN )TALY #REATED IN THE S THE 0ARCO DI 0INOCCHIO DAILY AMnSUNSET WWW PINOCCHIOIT + UNDER S + HONOURS THE FAMOUS BOOK WITH STATUES OF ITS CHARACTERS A SEQUENCE OF MOSAICS DEPICTING MOMENTS FROM 0INOCCHIOS LIFE AND VARIOUS TABLEAUX SCATTERED AROUND THE PATHS THAT WIND THROUGH THE PARK 4HE MONSTERS AND MAZES ARE FUN WITHOUT ANY BACKGROUND KNOWLEDGE BUT YOULL NEED TO HAVE READ THE BOOK IN ORDER TO GET THE MOST FROM THE PARK n AND TO lELD QUES TIONS SHOULD YOU BE VISITING WITH INFATUATED CHILDREN 0INOCCHIOS IMPORTANCE TO THE NATION CAN BE GAUGED FROM THE FACT THAT -ICHELUCCI n ARCHITECT OF &LORENCES TRAIN STATION AND SEVERAL PRESTIGIOUS CHURCHES n WAS COMMISSIONED TO DESIGN THE RESTAURANT AND MUSEUM NEAR THE ENTRANCE 4HERES ALSO A VERY INVITING TOY SHOP READY TO HOOK THE KIDS AS YOU LEAVE /VERSHADOWING THE 0INOCCHIO PARK THE VAST 6ILLA 'ARZONI EVOLVED FROM A CASTLE THAT STOOD HERE IN THE DAYS BEFORE ,UCCA SURRENDERED THIS REGION TO &LORENCE 4HE HOUSE TOOK ON ITS PRESENT FORM IN THE SECOND HALF OF THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY BUT IT WAS TOWARDS THE END OF THE FOLLOWING CENTURY THAT IT ACQUIRED THE MAGNIlCENT FORMAL GARDEN DAILY AMnSUNSET .OVn-ARCH CLOSED NOONnPM + THAT MAKES THIS ONE OF )TALYS lNEST VILLAS !CCESS IS USUALLY THROUGH A GATE ON THE MAIN ROAD BUT THE GARDEN WAS DESIGNED TO BE ENTERED THROUGH THE WOOD ADJOINING THE VILLA SO THAT THE VISITOR WOULD EMERGE FROM THE WILDERNESS INTO THIS PRECISELY ORCHESTRATED LANDSCAPE -AXIMIZING THE THEATRICAL POSSIBILITIES OF THE STEEP SLOPE IT DEPLOYS THE FULL RESOURCES OF THE "AROQUE GARDEN CIRCULAR FOUNTAINS TOPIARY ANIMALS PATTERNS OF mOWERS AND COLOURED STONES A WATER STAIRCASE A ZIGZAGGING CASCADE OF STEPS AND TERRACES AND TERRACOTTA lGURES IN EVERY CORNER /NE OF THE MOST DRAMATICALLY SITED 2OMANESQUE CHURCHES IN 4USCANY IS A SHORT DISTANCE NORTH OF #OLLODI AT 6),,! "!3),)#! A TINY VILLAGE CLINGING TO A RIDGE BELOW -ONTE 0IETRA 0ERTUSA FOLLOW THE MAIN ROAD FOR KM THEN KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR A SHARP LEFT TURN )TS A STERNLY UNADORNED BUILDING MADE ATTRACTIVE BY THE BACKDROP OF WOODS AND TERRACES
0ESCIA AND #ASTELVECCHIO
4HE MEDIUM SIZED TOWN OF 0%3#)! KM WEST OF -ONTECATINI 4ERME SEE P IS )TALYS TOP PRODUCER OF CUT mOWERS BOXING AROUND THREE MILLION LILIES CARNATIONS GLADIOLI AND OTHER BLOOMS PER DAY AT THE HEIGHT OF THE SEASON %ACH 3EPTEMBER OF EVEN NUMBERED YEARS IT HOSTS THE TECHNICOLOUR "IENNALE DEL &IORE WWWBIENNALEDELlOREIT + HELD IN THE GARGANTUAN MARKET HALL ON THE OUTSKIRTS 3PLIT BY THE 0ESCIA RIVER THE TOWN HAS TWO DISTINCT ZONES THE LEFT BANK FORMS THE ECCLESIASTICAL QUARTER THE RIGHT IS THE SECULAR AND COMMERCIAL DISTRICT 4HE $UOMO REBUILT "AROQUE BUT WITH A FOURTEENTH CENTURY CAMPANILE TAKES SEC OND SLOT TO 3AN &RANCESCO IN 6IA "ATTISTI n REACHED BY WALKING TOWARDS THE RIVER FROM THE CATHEDRAL AND TURNING RIGHT BEFORE THE BRIDGE (ERE "ONAVENTURA "ERLINGHIERIS PANEL 3IX 3CENES FROM THE ,IFE OF 3T &RANCIS THIRD ALTAR ON THE RIGHT
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PAINTED NINE YEARS AFTER &RANCISS DEATH PROVIDES WHATS PUBLICIZED AS THE MOST ACCURATE SURVIVING PORTRAIT OF THE SAINT BUT IS IN TRUTH A ROUTINELY STYLIZED IMAGE /N THE OTHER SIDE OF THE NAVE THE #APPELLA #ARDINI WAS ADDED TO THE 'OTHIC CHURCH BY THE ARCHITECT KNOWN SIMPLY AS "UGGIANO EMPLOYING THE STYLE OF HIS ADOPTIVE FATHER "RUNELLESCHI 4HE NEARBY ORATORY OF 3ANT!NTONIO !BBATE HAS A $EPOSITION THATS AN OUTSTANDING SPECIMEN OF THIRTEENTH CENTURY WOODCARVING /VER ON THE RIGHT BANK AT ONE END OF THE ELONGATED 0IAZZA -AZZINI THE CHURCH OF -ADONNA DI 0IÒ DI 0IAZZA IS ANOTHER WORTHY CREATION BY "UGGIANO !T THE OTHER END OF THE SQUARE STANDS THE BEMEDALLED 0ALAZZO DEI 6ICARI 2OMANESQUE HOME OF THE LOCAL COUNCIL 4HE -USEO #IVICO ON 0IAZZA 3ANTO 3TEFANO WAS CLOSED FOR RESTORATION AT THE TIME OF WRITING 4HE ONLY REASON TO HANG AROUND IN 0ESCIA IS TO SAMPLE THE TOWNS EDIBLE SPECIALITIES n ASPARAGUS AND A QUESTIONABLE STEW KNOWN AS CIONCIA MADE FROM OXS MUZZLE #ECCO 6IA &ORTI CLOSED -ON IS AN EXCELLENT MODERATELY PRICED RESTAURANT !BOUT KM UPSTREAM FROM 0ESCIA n PAST THE PAPER MILLS THAT KEEP THE TOWNS SECOND INDUSTRY GOING n STANDS THE STRANGE 0IEVE 3AN 4OMMASO IN THE VILLAGE OF #!34%,6%##()/ &OUNDED IN THE ELEVENTH CENTURY IT BEARS A FRIEZE OF GHOULISH FACES ON THE FACADE AND APSE SUGGESTING A STRONG PAGAN UNDERTOW TO THE #HRISTIAN PIETY OF THIS AREA )NSIDE ARE SOME WONDERFULLY CARVED CAPITALS AND A GLOOMY CRYPT THAT INTENSIlES THE THREATENING AURA OF THE GRIMACING HEADS
4HE 2IVIERA DELLA 6ERSILIA 4HE NORTHERN COAST OF 4USCANY IS KNOWN SOMEWHAT HYPERBOLICALLY AS THE 2IVIERA DELLA 6ERSILIA 4HE BEACH RESORTS THAT RUN UNBROKEN BETWEEN 6IAREGGIO AND &ORTE DEI -ARMI OFFER )TALIAN BEACH CULTURE IN ALL ITS GLORY -UCH OF THE SAND IS LEASED TO THE VIRTUALLY INDISTINGUISHABLE STABILIMENTI WHO IN TURN CHARGE ADMIS SION TO THEIR STRIPS AND RENT OUT CHAIRS AND UMBRELLAS THERE ARE FREE PUBLIC BEACHES SPIAGGIA PUBBLICA TOO AT REGULAR INTERVALS &OR A SWIM AND SOME SUN IN CHEERFULLY CROWDED CONDITIONS THIS COAST IS NOT AS BAD AS ITS USUALLY PAINTED THE WATER MAY BE CLEANER ELSEWHERE BUT ITS NOT lLTHY AND THE SAND IS IMMACULATELY GROOMED "US AND TRAIN LINKS TO ALL POINTS ARE EXCELLENT ESPECIALLY IN THE SUMMER WHEN YOU CAN MOVE UP AND DOWN THE COAST WITH MORE EASE THAN ANYWHERE ELSE IN 4USCANY
6IAREGGIO 4HE BEST TOWN ON THE COAST 6)!2%'')/ IS ALSO 4USCANYS BIGGEST SEASIDE RESORT WITH AN AIR OF ELEGANCE LENT MAINLY BY THE LONG AVENUE OF PALMS THAT RUNS THE LENGTH OF ITS SEAFRONT PROMENADE ! MODEST COLLECTION OF ,IBERTY STYLE FRONTAGES n DESIGNED BY THE FATHER OF )TALIAN !RT .OUVEAU 'ALILEO #HINI n ADDS
#ARNEVALE AT 6IAREGGIO 4HE ONLY TIME 6IAREGGIO HITS NATIONAL HEADLINES IS DURING ITS THREE WEEK #ARNEVALE MID &EBEARLY -ARCH ONE OF THE LIVELIEST IN )TALY %ACH 3UNDAY THERES A PARADE OF COLOSSAL mOATS OR CARRI CARRYING LAVISHLY DESIGNED PAPIER MÊCHÏ MODELS OF POLITI CIANS AND CELEBRITIES 4HE RECENTLY INAUGURATED h#ITTADELLA DEL #ARNEVALEv TO THE NORTH OF 6IAREGGIO HAS BEEN DESIGNED AS A HOME FOR THE VAST HANGARS IN WHICH THE ARTISTS CONSTRUCT THEIR IMAGINATIVE CREATIONS AND ALSO BOASTS A THEATRE AND MULTIMEDIA MUSE UM 9OU CAN VISIT ALL YEAR ROUND CONTACT THE &ONDAZIONE #ARNEVALE 0IAZZA -AZZINI WWWVIAREGGIOILCARNEVALECOM FOR FURTHER DETAILS
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TO THE SENSE OF RElNEMENT THOUGH FOR THE MOST PART THE BUILDINGS ARE OLD STYLE SEASIDE HOTELS )N THE EARLY PART OF LAST CENTURY THE TOWNS REPUTATION FOR EXCLU SIVITY WAS WELL DESERVED THESE DAYS ALL THATS LEFT IS THE HIGH PRICES 4HE EXCELLENT BEACHES ARE ALL PRIVATE CHARGING + AND UPWARDS FOR ADMISSION n EXCEPT FOR THE FREE STRETCH BETWEEN 6IAREGGIO AND 4ORRE DEL ,AGO n AND IN SUMMER THE FEW HOTELS THAT ARENT FULL USUALLY HOLD OUT FOR PENSIONA COMPLETA 9OU MAY PREFER TO JOIN THE MAJORITY AND CRAM INTO THE TRAIN FOR A DAY TRIP THIS IS WHAT MANY &LO RENTINES DO n IN SUMMER SPECIAL EARLY MORNING TRAINS FROM THE CITY ARE PACKED WITH RAUCOUS RAGAZZI 6IAREGGIOS MAIN FOCUS IS ITS PROMENADE THE 0ASSEGGIATA -ARGHERITA A BROAD THOROUGHFARE THAT RUNS ALONG THE SEAFRONT FOR KM -OST OF THE !RT .OUVEAU FRONTS ARE CROWDED TOGETHER AROUND THE TOWNS BEST KNOWN SPOT THE 'RAN #AFFÒ -ARGHERITA SEEMINGLY INSPIRED BY A PASTRY CHEF RATHER THAN AN ARCHITECT CLOSE TO THE START OF THE 0ASSEGGIATA NEAR THE MARINA !CROSS THE MARINA AND DISTINCT FROM THE TOWN THE 6IALE DEI 4IGLI IS A BEAUTIFUL AVENUE OF LIME TREES THAT STRETCHES KM SOUTH GIVING ACCESS TO VARIOUS BEACHES AND MOST OF THE TOWNS CAMPSITES 0RACTICALITIES
6IAREGGIOS TRAIN STATION TEN MINUTES WALK BACK FROM THE SEAFRONT HAS A SUMMER ONLY TOURIST OFlCE !PRILn3EPT -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM SUPPLEMENTING THE MAIN TOURIST OFlCE IN TOWN 6IALE #ARDUCCI -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM WWW VERSILIATURISMOTOSCANAIT "USES STOP NEAR THE CENTRE AT 0IAZZA D!ZEGLIO AND 0IAZZA -AZZINI 6AIBUS HAVE AN OFlCE IN 0IAZZA D!ZEGLIO FOR TICKETS AND INFORMA TION ! SERIES OF KIOSKS AT THE 0INETA DI 0ONENTE SEE MAP HAVE BIKES FOR RENT 4HE TOWN HAS OVER A HUNDRED ONE STAR HOTELS MANY NEAR THE TOURIST OFlCE ON 6IALE #ARDUCCI AND ALONG 6IA 6ESPUCCI AND 6IA ,EONARDO DA 6INCI -ORE UPMARKET OPTIONS ARE EQUALLY NUMEROUS !MONG THE CHEAPER OPTIONS ARE 6ILLA !MADEI 6IA & 'IOIA AMADEI CAENIT !PRILn3EPT THE CENTRAL TWO STAR %LY 6IA #ARRARA ELYHOTEL IOLIT !PRILn3EPT AND THE TWO STAR "ELLA 2IVIERA 6IALE -ANIN WWWHOTELBELLARIVIERAIT 4HERE ARE SEVERAL CAMPSITES OFF 6IALE DEI 4IGLI ON THE EDGE OF THE 0ARCO 2EGIONALE SEE BELOW THE lRST IS THE 6IAREGGIO 6IA #OMPARINI CAMPINGVIAREGGIO TINIT !PRILn3EPT AFTER ABOUT KM FOLLOWED BY THE LARGER 0ARADISO WWW CAMPEGGIOPARADISOCOM !PRILn3EPT
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2ESTAURANT PRICES ARE CONSIDERABLY OVER THE ODDS n ESPECIALLY ON THE SEAFRONT &OR SUBLIME lSH AND SEAFOOD COOKING MAKE FOR THE -ICHELIN STARRED 2OMANO 6IA -AZZINI CLOSED -ON !LSO GOOD FOR SEAFOOD AND PIZZA IS 0IC COLA 4ITO ,UNGOMOLO DEL 'RECO ,OWER DOWN THE LADDER TRY THE MODERATELY PRICED ,A $ARSENA 6IA 6IRGILIO CLOSED 3UN /N A TIGHTER BUDGET YOU CAN GET CHEAP PLATES OF PASTA OR GOOD PIZZA FROM $A $INO 6IA #ESARE "ATTISTI n CLOSED 4HURS OTHERWISE YOURE MORE LIKELY TO DEPEND ON PIZZAS OR TAKEAWAY FOOD FROM THE 0IAZZA #AVOUR MARKET
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4HE JOURNEY SOUTH FROM 6IAREGGIO ALONG 6IALE DEI 4IGLI IS WORTH IT JUST FOR THE LIME TREES WHETHER YOU PRESS ON TO THE HAMLET OF 4/22% $%, ,!'/ SERVED BY HALF HOURLY BUSES FROM 6IAREGGIOS 0IAZZA D!ZEGLIO DEPENDS ON HOW MUCH YOU VALUE 0UCCINI WHO SPENT THE LATER PART OF HIS LIFE IN A VILLA ON THE EDGE OF THE ADJACENT ,AGO DI -ASSACIUCCOLI )N 4ORRE DEL ,AGO ITS EASY TO MISS THE 6ILLA 0UCCINI SET BACK FROM THE SHORE AND SURROUNDED BY BARS TREES AND HIGH IRON RAILINGS 6ISITS ARE IN GUIDED GROUPS OF NO MORE THAN EIGHTEEN PEOPLE EVERY MIN 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM CLOSED .OV + WWWGIACOMOPUCCINIIT THE ROOMS FEATURE ORIGINAL FURNISHINGS MEMENTOS AND THE PIANO ON WHICH 0UCCINI BASHED OUT MANY OF HIS OPERAS )N LATE *ULY AND !UGUST THE &ESTIVAL 0UCCINIANO WWWPUCCINIFESTIVAL IT PRESENTS THE MASTERS WORKS IN 4ORRE DEL ,AGOS OUTDOOR THEATRE AND VARIOUS OTHER VENUES )TS AN EXTREMELY POPULAR SHOW AS ARE THE INTERNATIONAL REGATTAS HELD ON THE LAKE THROUGH THE SUMMER 4HE ,AGO DI -ASSACIUCCOLI NO MORE THAN M DEEP YET COVERING AN AREA THE SIZE OF 0ISA IS ONE OF THE FEW 4USCAN LAGOONS NOT LOST TO LAND RECLAMATION /NCE IT SUPPORTED VIRTUALLY ALL )TALYS SPECIES OF AQUATIC BIRD BUT MANY HAVE BEEN WIPED OUT BY POLLUTION AND HUNTERS 0UCCINI HIMSELF CAME HERE TO PRACTISE hMY SECOND FAVOURITE INSTRUMENT MY RImEv .OW THE LAKE FORMS PART OF THE 0ARCO 2EGIONALE DI -IGLIARINO 3AN 2OSSORE WWWPARKSIT AND IS ALSO A PROTECTED BIRD SANCTUARY AS A RESULT THERE ARE SOME BREEDING AND ANOTHER OCCASIONAL SPECIES ON THE LAKE 9OU CAN TAKE A BOAT TRIP FOR AN HOURS TOUR AROUND THE LAKE + OR ARRANGE A BIRDWATCHING TRIP WITH THE BIRD PROTECTION CHARITY ,)05 A BOAT COSTS + FOR A TWO HOUR OUTING WITH AN %NGLISH GUIDE AND YOULL NEED TO PRE BOOK 4ORRE DEL ,AGO HAS SIX CAMPSITES INCLUDING "OSCO 6ERDE 6IALE +ENNEDY WWWBOSCOVERDECOM !PRILn3EPT AND THE POPULAR "URLAMACCO 6IALE -ARCONI WWWCAMPINGBURLAMACCOCOM !PRILn3EPT /F ITS HOTELS MOST ARE ON THE MAIN 6IALE -ARCONI EXCEPT FOR "UT TERmY "ELVEDERE 0UCCINI RIGHT BY THE LAKE AND THE THREE STAR 4URANDOT 6IALE +ENNEDY WWWHOTELTURANDOT COM ON THE WAY TO THE SEA !LONG THE LUNGOMARE THERE ARE PLENTY OF GOOD RESTAURANTS AND PIZZERIE AND A COUPLE OF CLUBS THAT DRAW CROWDS FROM AS FAR AlELD AS &LORENCE
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4ORRE DEL ,AGO AND AROUND
.ORTH OF 6IAREGGIO 4HE 6ERSILIAS RIBBON DEVELOPMENT CONTINUES NORTH OF 6IAREGGIO DISTINGUISH ABLE ONLY BY A GRADUAL SHIFT DOWNMARKET 4HE TOWN OF 0)%42!3!.4! KM BACK FROM THE -ARINA DI 0IETRASANTA BEACH IS NO MORE THAN A BUSY MARBLE CEN TRE WITH ONE OR TWO OLD BUILDINGS IT IS THOUGH A GOOD BASE FROM WHICH TO HEAD UP INTO THE !LPI !PUANE "USES INTO THE MOUNTAINS LEAVE FROM THE TERMINAL OUT SIDE THE TRAIN STATION WITH HOURLY SERVICES TO 3ERAVEZZA WHERE YOU CAN CHANGE
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FOR CONNECTIONS TO ,EVIGLIANI AND 3TAZZEMA AND THREE DAILY TO #ASTELNUOVO DI 'ARFAGNANA 4HERE IS LITTLE REASON TO STAY n UNLESS YOU ARE PLANNING SOME LOCAL HIKES IN THE FOOTHILLS n BUT THERE ARE SEVERAL HOTELS INCLUDING THE TWO STAR 3TIPINO 6IA 0ROVINCIALE STIPINO TISCALINETIT AND THREE STAR 0ALAGI 0IAZZA #ARDUCCI 4HE TOWNS TOURIST OFlCE OCCUPIES A SMALL KIOSK AT 0IAZZA 3TATUTO -ONn7ED &RI 3AT AMnPM !PRILn3EPT ALSO nPM !NOTHER INLAND TOWN #!-!)/2% HAS A COUPLE OF 2OMANESQUE CHURCHES AND THE EIGHTH CENTURY "ADIA DEI 3ANTI "ENEDETTI BUT ITS AN UGLY SEMI INDUSTRIAL SPOT WORTH PASSING THROUGH ONLY IF YOURE TAKING THE MINOR ROAD BACK TO ,UCCA &ORTE DEI -ARMI
\ 4HE !LPI !PUANE
!S THESE PLACES GO &/24% $%) -!2-) IS A PLEASANT RESORT WITH LUSH TREE LINED STREETS AND A GOOD BEACH )TS A PLACE FOR A SWIM AND STROLL BUT THERES NOTHING HERE TO JUSTIFY ITS REPUTATION AS THE TRENDIEST SPOT ON THE COAST NOR THE HIGH PRICES IN ITS TOP HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS /NCE A MAJOR PORT FOR MARBLE FROM THE !PUANE ITS NOW ONE OF THE SECOND HOME CAPITALS OF 4USCANY AND A RETREAT FOR WRITERS AND ARTISTS WHO HOLE UP IN ITS MORE ISOLATED TREE SURROUNDED VILLAS &OR A FEW HUNDRED METRES NORTH OF THE TOWN THERES A STRETCH OF DUNES WITH NO DEVELOPMENT AT ALL IT LOOKS A TEMPTING CAMPING OPTION BUT LOCAL POLICE WILL SHIFT YOU WITHIN MINUTES IF YOU TRY TO PITCH A TENT "EYOND THE DUNES NONDESCRIPT #INQUALE AND 2ONCHI RESUME THE CORRIDOR OF BEACH FRONT COMMERCIALISM ,IKE 0IETRASANTA THOUGH &ORTE DEI -ARMI IS A GOOD POINT OF ACCESS TO THE MOUNTAINS WITH BUSES TO 3ERAVEZZA ,EVIGLIANI 3TAZZEMA AND &ARNOCCHIA 4HERE ARE SERVICES TO THE INTERIOR AND TO ,UCCA 6IAREGGIO AND 0IETRASANTA FROM THE &ORTE DEI -ARMI 3ERAVEZZA 1UERCETO TRAIN STATION LOCATED KM INLAND AT 1UERCETA AND ALSO FROM 6IA -ATTEOTTI IN THE TOWN "USES ALSO RUN FROM NEARBY 6IA 0ASCOLI TO ,A 3PEZIA 0ISA ,UCCA AND &LORENCE 4HE TOURIST OFlCE 6IA !CHILLE &RANCESCHI B !PRILn3EPT -ONn3AT AMnPM PMnPM PLUS *ULY !UG 3UN AMnPM /CTn-ARCH -ONn3AT AMnPM &RI 3AT ALSO PMnPM WWWCOMUNEFORTEDEIMARMILUIT CAN PROVIDE FULL LISTS OF THE HUNDRED ODD HOTELS 2ESTAURANTS LARGELY CATER TO THE WELL HEELED THOUGH THERE ARE THE USUAL SEAFRONT PIZZERIE &OR ABOUT + PLUS YOU CAN HAVE ONE OF THE REGIONS lNEST CULINARY EXPERIENCES AT THE -ICHELIN STARRED ,ORENZO 6IA #ARDUCCI 4UESn3UN EVES &ISH AT ITS FRESHEST IS THE CHOICE h! lSH HAS VIRTUES v SAYS OWNER ,ORENZO 6IANI hBUT LOSES ONE WITH EACH HOUR THAT PASSESv
4HE !LPI !PUANE
4USCANYS 6ERSILIA COAST IS DOMINATED BY THE MOUNTAINS OF THE !LPI !PUANE A FORTY KILOMETRE SPREAD OF GENUINELY !LPINE SPECTACLE .OW A PROTECTED 0ARCO 2EGIONALE THEY ARE CRISSCROSSED BY WELL MARKED FOOTPATHS AND OFFER HUGE REWARDS FOR THE WALKER AND NATURALIST )F YOU WANT TO DO MORE THAN ADMIRE THE JAGGED KNIFE EDGE RIDGE OF THE MOUNTAINS FROM AFAR THERE ARE NUMEROUS MARKED TRAILS STARTING FROM ROADHEADS DEEP IN THE MOUNTAINS THE BIGGEST CONCENTRATION OF THESE TRACKS IS IN THE PEAKS EAST OF &ORTE DEI -ARMI AND 0IETRASANTA CENTRED ON 0ANIA DELLA #ROCE M AND -ONTE &ORATO M 4HE MAIN TOWNS ARE -ASSA AND #ARRARA KNOWN ABOVE ALL ELSE AS THE MARBLE CAPITALS OF )TALY CHARACTERIZED BY HUGE BLOCKS OF STONE LITTERING THE ROADSIDES lNE WHITE DUST EVERYWHERE AND MINE SCARRED ROCKFACES
7ALKS IN THE !PUANE
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&OR INFORMATION ON THE 0ARCO 2EGIONALE CONTACT THE TOURIST OFlCE AND PARK VISITOR CENTRE AT 6IA #ORRADO DEL 'RECO IN 3%2!6%::! -ONn3AT AMnPM PLUS 4UES 4HURS nPM WWW PARKSIT WWWPARCAPUANEIT DURING THE SUMMER THEY ORGANIZE FULL DAY GUIDED WALKS FREE OF CHARGE THAT YOU SHOULD BOOK IN ADVANCE 4HE DETAILED -ULTIGRAPHIC MAP WIDELY AVAILABLE LOCALLY FOR + MARKS ALL THE MAIN WALKING TRAILS AND REFUGES 4HE MAIN APPROACH TO THE NORTHERN GROUP OF PEAKS ROUND 0ANIA DELLA #ROCE IS FROM ,%6)',)!.) REACHED BY BUS FROM &ORTE DEI -ARMI AND 0IETRASANTA IT HAS A COUPLE OF TWO STAR HOTELS 6ALLECHIARA 6IA ,AMBORA AND 2AFFAELLO 6IA .ORD ! MINING ROAD RUNS FROM ,EVIGLIANI TOWARDS -ONTE #ORCHIA M ABOUT HALF OF WHICH HAS BEEN REMOVED BY QUARRYING 9OU CAN SOMETIMES GET LIFTS UP THIS FAR FROM MINING LORRIES ALTHOUGH TRAVELLING ON THE ROAD ON THE MINES WORKING DAYS IS OFlCIALLY PROHIBITED &ROM THE TOP OF THE ROAD YOU CAN PICK UP TRAIL TO THE BED 2IFUGIO 'IUSEPPE DEL &REO HR MIN WALK FROM ,EVIGLIANI MID *UNE TO MID 3EPT OPEN DAILY REST OF YEAR OPEN 3AT 3UN ONLY &ROM HERE THE BEST WALK LEADS UP 0ANIA DELLA #ROCE TRAIL HR MIN FROM THE REFUGE "EHIND #/,/..!4! VILLAGE SITE OF MANY QUARRIES KM INLAND FROM #ARRARA SEE P THE #!) TRAIL LEADS TO A DENSE WEB OF PATHS AROUND -ONTE 2ASORE M AND -ONTE 'RONDICE M #!-0/ #%#).! KM NORTH OF #ARRARA ON THE 33 HAS THE ALL YEAR 2IFUGIO #ARRARA M + AND A RATHER MORE GENTLE SELECTION OF PATHS &OR THE SOUTHERN PEAKS ROUND -ONTE &ORATO THE BEST ACCESS POINT IS 34!::%-! A LOVELY VILLAGE IN ITS OWN RIGHT WITH THE ONE STAR HOTEL 0ROCINTO 6IA )6 .OVEMBRE 4HE BUS FROM &ORTE DEI -ARMI AND
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4HANKS TO THEIR POSITION AND HEIGHT THE !PUANE ARE A PERFECT COMBINATION OF DIFFERENT ECOLOGICAL HABITATS FROM TUNDRA THROUGH !LPINE MEADOW TO -EDITER RANEAN GRASSLAND !N EXTRAORDINARY VARIETY OF WILD mOWERS MAKES THIS ONE OF THE COUNTRYS RICHEST BOTANIC ENCLAVES BUT THE MOST NOTICEABLE VEGETATION IS THE IMMENSE FORESTS OF CHESTNUT AND BEECH WHICH COVER VIRTUALLY ALL THE LOWER SLOPES 4HESE SHELTER SOME OF THE MOUNTAINS THREE HUNDRED SPECIES OF BIRDS INCLUDING THE GOLDEN EAGLE WHICH HAS RECENTLY RETURNED TO NEST HERE SADLY PRO TECTION CAME TOO LATE TO PRESERVE MANY LARGER MAMMALS FROM HUNTERS THOUGH YOU MAY SEE MARMOTS n RARE IN THE !PENNINES n ON THE HIGHER SUNNIER SLOPES
#AVING IN THE !PUANE 4HE !PUANE HAS THE BEST IN )TALIAN SPELEOLOGY RIDDLED WITH SOME OF THE GREATEST CHALLENGES IN %UROPEAN CAVING !N ESTIMATED KM OF GALLERIES RUN THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS THE LARGEST OF WHICH n THE !NTRO DEL #ORCHIA n EXTENDS FOR OVER KM AND REACHES DEPTHS OF MORE THAN M #AVES OPEN TO THE PUBLIC INCLUDE THE !NTRO DEL #ORCHIA AT ,EVIGLIANI n A TWO HOUR GUIDED TOUR COSTS + WWWANTROCORCHIAIT THE 'ROTTA DEL 6ENTO AT &ORNOVOLASCO WWWGROTTADELVENTOCOM AND THE 'ROTTA DI %QUI 4ERME AT &IVIZZANO &OR MORE SERIOUS CAVERS THERE IS AN OPPORTUNITY TO EXPLORE THE LESS hTOURISTYv CAVES IN THE COMPANY OF A PROFESSIONAL GUIDE n THE DAILY RATE STARTS AT AROUND + PLUS AN EXTRA TEN PERCENT FOR HIRING EQUIPMENT #ONTACT THE PARK CENTRE AT 3ERAVEZZA FOR FURTHER INFORMATION AND A LIST OF GUIDES
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0IETRASANTA TO 3TAZZEMA GOES VIA &ARNOCCHIA ITSELF THE STARTING POINT FOR SOME EASY PATHS THROUGH THE TREES 4HE CLASSIC WALK FROM 3TAZZEMA TRAIL IS A GENTLE CLIMB THROUGH CHESTNUT WOODS TO THE 0ROCINTO A HUGE TABLE TOP CRAG MEN TIONED BY $ANTE "ELOW IT AT M IS THE BED 2IFUGIO &ORTE DEI -ARMI EARLY *UNE TO EARLY 3EPT DAILY REST OF YEAR OPEN 3AT 3UN ONLY BED ONLY + 4HIS MAKES A COMFORTABLE DAYS OUTING WITH TIME TO WALK UP TO -ONTE .ONA M DROP BACK TO THE REFUGE FOR A SNACK AND THEN RETURN TO 3TAZZEMA BY TRAILS 4HE REFUGE IS ALSO A PERFECT BASE FOR WALKS ALONG THE MAIN RIDGE n FOR EXAMPLE TO THE 2IFUGIO 'IUSEPPE DEL &REO SEE P HR
-ASSA AND AROUND )T MIGHT HAVE A CASTLE AND CATHEDRAL BUT THE CHARACTER OF BUSY MODERN -!33! IS ENCAPSULATED MORE BY ITS BLAND BROAD STREETS AND &ASCIST CIVIC ARCHITECTURE 4HE TOWNS MOST DISTINCTIVE SIGHT IS ON THE MAIN STREET A FOUNTAIN CONSISTING OF A BIG MARBLE BALL AND FAT BABIES n EASILY SEEN FROM A PASSING BUS OR CAR 4HE #ASTELLO -ALASPINA 3AT AMnNOON 3UN nPM + WITH ITS LOGGIA AND SPREAD OF 2ENAISSANCE ROOMS IS WORTH AN HOUR OF YOUR TIME /THERWISE THERES ONLY THE TWO TIERED $UOMO n IN LOCAL MARBLE OF COURSE n AND THE 0IAZZA DEGLI !RANCI HUB OF WHAT REMAINS OF THE OLD TOWN "EHIND -ASSA A ROAD CLIMBS UP INTO THE !LPI !PUANE TOWARDS #ASTELNUOVO DI 'ARFAGNANA SEE P A SCRAPPY RIDE WITH NEW VILLAS AND RAMSHACKLE PIZZERIE TAKING THE EDGE OFF THE VIEWS !BOUT KM ABOVE THE VILLAGE OF !.4/.! JUST BEYOND THE COUNCIL OWNED 2IFUGIO !LBERGO DI -ASSA MID !PRIL TO 3EPT ARE #LUB !LPINO )TALIANO TRAILS LEADING UP TO -ONTE !LTISSIMO M AND A COUPLE OF LOW RIDGE WALKS *UST BEFORE THE REFUGE AT 0IAN DELLA &IOBA IS THE SMALL 0IETRO 0ELLEGRINI BOTANICAL GARDEN OF WILD mOWERS MID -AY TO MID 3EPT DAILY nAM nPM FREE 0RACTICALITIES
"USES COME AND GO FROM -ASSAS TRAIN STATION TO GET TO THE BEACHES TAKE THE BUS TO -!2).! $) -!33! AND THEN TRANSFER TO ONE OF THE SERVICES THAT STOP EVERY FEW HUNDRED METRES UP AND DOWN THE COAST EVERY HR MORE FRE QUENT IN *ULY !UG -OST OF THE HOTELS ARE IN -ARINA DI -ASSA 2ECOMMEND ED IS (OTEL ,UNA 6IA 4ORNABONI LOCATED M FROM THE SEA WWWLUNAHOTELNET ! LIST OF OTHER HOTELS IS AVAILABLE FROM THE TOURIST OFlCE 6IALE 6ESPUCCI -ARINA DI -ASSA -AYn3EPT -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM REST OF THE YEAR -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM WWWAPTMASSACARRARAIT 4HE HOSTEL /STELLO !PUANO 6IA DELLE 0INETE 0ARTACCIA WWWOSTELLIONLINEORG MID -ARCH TO 3EPT CURFEW PM + IS ON THE SEAFRONT NORTH OF -ARINA DI -ASSA BUSES GO NORTH ALONG THE COAST AS WELL AS DIRECT FROM #ARRARA TRAIN STA TION 4HERES A FREE BEACH NEARBY BUT THE SANDS POOR YOURE BETTER OFF HEADING SOUTH -ARINA DI -ASSAS BEST KNOWN RESTAURANT IS THE MODERATELY PRICED $A 2ICCÌ 6IA #ASOLA CLOSED -ON &OR SOMETHING DIFFERENT TRY ,A 0ENICHE AT 6IA ,UNGOBRUGIANO WWWLAPENICHE COM A COUNTRY STYLE RESTAURANT BUILT ON STILTS WITH GOOD INVENTIVE COOKING FROM AROUND + A HEAD ! CHEAP OPTION IS 4RATTORIA "ARIA 6IA 3AN ,EONARDO CLOSED 4UES WHILE SNACK AND PIZZA OUTLETS ABOUND )N -ASSA ITSELF THE BEST BET IS THE WONDERFULLY OLD FASHIONED AND MODERATELY PRICED )L 0ASSEGGERO RUN BY THE SAME FAMILY FOR OVER lFTY YEARS JUST OFF THE MAIN 0IAZZA DEGLI !RANCI AT 6IA !LBERICA CLOSED -ONn4HURS EVES ALL
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9OU CANT GET AWAY FROM MARBLE IN #!22!2! A TOWN WHOSE VERY NAME IS SAID TO DERIVE FROM KAR THE )NDO %UROPEAN WORD FOR STONE (OWEVER THE TOWN ITSELF IS A SURPRISINGLY ATTRACTIVE PLACE ONCE YOU GET AWAY FROM THE SPRAWLING FACTORIES AROUND THE STATION 3ET IN THE HILLS ABOVE THIS MESS CENTRAL #ARRARA HAS A RURAL HILL TOWN FEEL WITH PEELING PASTEL STUCCO ON ITS HOUSES ELEGANT SIDE STREETS LINED WITH ROWS OF GREEN SHUTTERS AND A COUPLE OF PIAZZAS AND A $UOMO THAT WOULD DO CREDIT TO ANY 4USCAN TOWN "Y CONTRAST THE TOWNS hRESORTv -ARINA DI #ARRARA IS GRIM n MORE A CONTAINER PORT THAN A BEACH )F YOU WANT THE SEA ITS BEST TO DRIVE INLAND TO -ASSA AND THEN DROP DOWN TO THE COAST THERE #ARRARA FEELS LIKE A SELF SUFlCIENT TOWN AND ITS PEOPLE HAVE ALWAYS HAD A REPU TATION AS A BREED APART n SOMETHING THEY PRESERVED EVEN UNDER THE LONG TERM DOMINATION OF THE -ALASPINA NOBLES THE LOCAL MEDIEVAL BIG SHOTS "EFORE THEIR RULE THE TOWN HAD DEVELOPED AS A TRADING CENTRE POISED BETWEEN 4USCANY THE
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MOUNTAINS AND THE ,IGURIAN COAST 2OMAN EXPLOITATION OF MARBLE MADE TRADE WITH THE NEARBY COLONY OF ,UNI OVER THE ,IGURIAN BORDER PARTICULARLY BRISK SOMETHING OF ITS SCALE CAN BE SEEN IN THE RUINS OF THE COLONY CURRENTLY BEING EXCAVATED THERE 4HE TOWN AND QUARRIES
4ODAY MORE THAN TWO HUNDRED WORKING CONCERNS EXTRACT TONNES OF STONE ANNUALLY MAKING THIS AREA STILL THE WORLDS SINGLE LARGEST PRODUCER OF MARBLE (UGE WIRE SAWS SLICE INTO THE MOUNTAINS AT A RATE OF ABOUT CM AN HOUR THEIR TWENTY FOUR HOUR WHINE THE BANE OF LOCAL RESIDENTS %NVIRONMENTALISTS OPPOSE THE SPEED OF EXTRACTION AND THE INDUSTRY IS THREATENED BY GOVERNMENT PLANS TO GIVE 0ARCO .AZIONALE STATUS TO THE !PUANE BUT THE QUARRY OWNERS WILL
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lGHT ALL THE WAY TO PRESERVE THE TWO THOUSAND JOBS THAT REMAIN IN AN INDUSTRY WHICH EMPLOYED AS MANY AS MEN BARELY A CENTURY AGO 7ITH AN ESTI MATED ONE THOUSAND JOBS DIRECTLY DEPENDENT ON EACH JOB IN THE QUARRIES THE #ARRARA EMPLOYERS HAVE NO LACK OF SUPPORTERS ELSEWHERE IN )TALY #ARRARAS OLD TOWN CENTRES ON 0IAZZA !LBERICA A GRACIOUS SQUARE WHOSE BEAUTY OWES MUCH TO THE HILLS WHICH COME DOWN ON TWO SIDES AND TO THE ELEGANT COLOURS AND TONE MORE OFTEN ASSOCIATED WITH ,IGURIA THAN 4USCANY 3TRAY BLOCKS OF MARBLE SIT AT ITS CENTRE A LEGACY OF THE BIENNIAL 3COLPIRE ALL!PERTO A FESTIVAL IN WHICH SCULPTORS FROM AROUND THE WORLD ARE INVITED TO THE TOWN GIVEN A BLOCK OF MARBLE AND LEFT TO WORK IN THE MIDDLE OF THE SQUARE )F YOURE HERE BETWEEN LATE *ULY AND EARLY /CTOBER YOU MAY GET TO WATCH THEM CHIPPING AWAY ! SHORT WALK BRINGS YOU TO THE ELEVENTH CENTURY $UOMO RATHER SQUASHED INTO ITS PIAZZA BUT GRACED WITH A HUGE TOWER AND A LOVELY FACADE BUILT TO THE INEVITABLE 0ISAN 2OMANESQUE PATTERN /NLY THE INTRICATE ROSE WINDOW A SUPERB FOURTEENTH CENTURY ADDITION DEPARTS FROM THE NORM 4HE INTERIOR HAS A SEVERE SIMPLICITY BUT CONTAINS SOME BEAUTIFUL WORKS n A lFTEENTH CENTURY PULPIT AND lVE APPEALING STATUES BY THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY SCULPTOR "ERGAMINI 4HE PIAZ ZAS FOUNTAIN KNOWN LOCALLY AS )L 'IGANTE 4HE 'IANT IS AN INCOMPLETE WORK BY THE LACKLUSTRE &LORENTINE "ANDINELLI !LSO IN THE SQUARE IS THE HOUSE WHERE -ICHELANGELO PUT UP WHILE CHECKING OUT HIS MARBLE SUPPLIES NEARBY IN 6IA 3ANTA -ARIA ARE 0ETRARCHS DIGS #ASA 2EPETTI 4HE IMPRESSIVE CASTLE ON 0IAZZA 'RAMSCI WAS ONCE A -ALASPINA FORTRESS AND IS NOW THE !CCADEMIA DELLE "ELLE !RTI WITH A FEW 2OMAN FRAGMENTS AND PLASTER CASTS IN ITS COURTYARD )N 6IA 88 3ETTEMBRE KM SOUTHWEST OF TOWN ON -ARINA DI #ARRARA ROAD AND SERVED BY A BUS FROM 6IA $ON -INZONI IS THE -USEO #IVICO DI -ARMO *ULY !UG DAILY AMnPM -AY *UNE 3EPT DAILY AMnPM /CTn!PRIL -ONn 3AT AMnPM + 2UN AS A PROMOTIONAL EXERCISE BY THE LOCAL #HAMBER OF #OMMERCE ITS AN IMPRESSIVE DISPLAY THAT LOOKS AT THE HISTORY AND PRODUCTION OF THE STONE n LOTS OF PHOTOGRAPHS EXAMPLES OF DIFFERENT TYPES OF MARBLE AND A ROOM DEVOTED TO RATHER DUBIOUS EXAMPLES OF MARBLE ART !NY SHORT TRIP INTO THE INTERIOR BRINGS YOU ACROSS THE HUGE SCARS OF THE MARBLE QUARRIES SOME OF THE MOST STARTLING SIGHTS IN 4USCANY ! PARTICULARLY ACCESSIBLE
#ARRARA MARBLE %VER PRESENT ON THE 6ERSILIA COAST WHETHER AS BLOCKS WAITING SHIPMENT OR AS HUGE SNOW LIKE SCARS ON THE MOUNTAINS MARBLE HAS BEEN THE LIFEBLOOD OF THE REGION FOR OVER TWO THOUSAND YEARS -ARBLE IS A METAMORPHIC FORM OF LIMESTONE HARDENED BY COLOSSAL HEAT AND PRESSURE 4HOUGH IT TAKES MANY FORMS #ARRARA STONE IS USUALLY WHITE GREY AND IS PRIZED FOR ITS mAWLESS LUSTRE 4HE MANY OTHER TYPES YOULL SEE ARE MOSTLY BLOCKS WHICH HAVE BEEN IMPORTED n FROM AS FAR AWAY AS 2USSIA n TO BE WORKED BY THE HIGHLY RATED LOCAL FACTORIES 4HE 2OMANS WERE THE lRST TO EXTRACT THIS STONE COMMERCIALLY DRIVING PEGS OF lG WOOD INTO NATURAL FAULTS AND THEN SOAKING THEM UNTIL THE SWOLLEN WOOD SPLIT THE STONE )N TIME THEY USED SCORED LINES AND IRON CHISELS TO PRODUCE UNIFORM BLOCKS ABOUT TWO METRES SQUARE n STILL THE BASIC MEASURE 0RACTICES REMAINED LITTLE CHANGED UNTIL THE 2ENAISSANCE WHEN -ICHELANGELO BEGAN TO VISIT THE AREA (IS WET NURSE WAS FROM THIS PART OF 4USCANY AND HE CLAIMED HE BECAME A SCULPTOR BY INGESTING THE MARBLE DUST IN HER MILK HE ALSO CLAIMED TO HAVE INTRODUCED THE ART OF QUARRYING TO #ARRARA A PROCESS HE CONSIDERED AS IMPORTANT AS SCULPTING ITSELF 4HE $AVID IS SCULPTED FROM #ARRARA MARBLE AND LOCAL FOLKLORE IS FULL OF -ICHELANGELOS PILGRIMAGES TO DISTANT CORNERS OF THE MOUNTAINS IN SEARCH OF PERFECT STONE
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SITE IS AT #/,/..!4! TAKING ITS NAME FROM A COLUMN OF 2OMAN SLAVES BROUGHT IN TO WORK THE MINES KM FROM #ARRARA AND SERVED IN SUMMER BY EIGHT DAILY #!4 BUSES FROM #ARRARAS MAIN BUS TERMINUS AT 6IA $ON -INZONI $ONT GO ALL THE WAY TO #OLONNATA VILLAGE BUT GET OFF AT THE 6ISITA #AVE SIGNS BY THE MINE IF YOURE DRIVING FOLLOW THE YELLOW #AVA DI -ARMO SIGNS FROM THE TOWN UP THE TWISTING ROAD 9OULL SEE A HUGE BLINDINGLY WHITE MARBLE BASIN ITS mOOR AND SIDES PERFECTLY SQUARED BY THE ENORMOUS WIRE SAWS USED TO CUT THE BLOCKS THAT LITTER THE SURROUNDINGS 4HERE ARE EVEN BIGGER QUARRIES FARTHER SOUTH NOTABLY AT -ONTE #ORCHIA 0RACTICALITIES
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#ARRARAS TRAIN STATION IS CLOSE TO THE SEA AND HAS A REGULAR BUS SERVICE TO THE OLD TOWN "US CONNECTIONS FOR ,A 3PEZIA AND &LORENCE LEAVE FROM 0IAZZA -EN CONI IN -ARINA DI #ARRARA 4HE NEAREST TOURIST OFlCE IS ALSO AT -ARINA DI #AR RARA *UNEn3EPT -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM BUT YOUD DO BETTER AT THE MAIN OFlCE IN -ARINA DI -ASSA SEE P !CCOMMODATION IN THE OLD TOWN IS LIMITED TO THE POTENTIALLY NOISY TWO STAR $A 2OBERTO 6IA !PUANA AND THE MORE SALUBRIOUS THREE STAR -ICHELANGELO #ORSO #ARLO 2OSSELLI HMCARRARA TINIT 4HERES A HOSTEL NEAR -ARINA DI #ARRARA SEE P OR THE ONE STAR -AURIN NEAR THE STATION AT 6IA &IORINO 2ESTAURANTS ARE NUMEROUS FEW OF THEM TOURIST ORIENTED &OR A MODERATE PRICE YOU CAN EAT AT THE /STERIA DELLA #ONTRADA 6IA 5LIVI CLOSED -ON THE 2OMA 0IAZZA #ESARE "ATTISTI CLOSED 4UES OR FOR FRESH lSH TRY THE FAMILY OWNED 0ETITE #USINE 6IA 6ERDI CLOSED 3UN IN !UG !N EXCELLENT LITTLE SPOT FOR A DRINK IS THE "AR &UORI 0ORTA 0IAZZA "ATTISTI CLOSED 3UN WHICH ALSO SERVES INEXPENSIVE ANTIPASTI AND PRIMI FOR SOMETHING MORE SOPHISTICATED TRY THE EXPENSIVE %NOTECA .INAN 6IA "ARTOLINI CLOSED 3UN &OR PICNIC SUPPLIES AIM FOR 2ICCI 6IA 2OSSELLI CLOSED 7ED AFTERNOON 3UN WHICH PRESERVES A WONDERFUL !RT .OUVEAU INTE RIOR &OR A TREAT HEAD OUT TO #OLONNATA WHERE THE 6ENANZIO 0IAZZA 0ALESTRO CLOSED 3UN EVE 4HURS BOOKING ESSENTIAL HAS ATTRACTED EVEN THE PRESIDENT OF )TALY RECKON ON AROUND + FOR WHAT SHOULD BE A SENSATIONAL MEAL
4HE 'ARFAGNANA
4HE 'ARFAGNANA IS THE GENERAL NAME FOR THE AREA ENCOMPASSING THE 3ERCHIO VALLEY NORTH OF ,UCCA ONE OF 4USCANYS LEAST EXPLORED YET MOST SPECTACULAR CORNERS 4HE PAUCITY OF VISITORS IS ACCOUNTED FOR BY THE LACK OF ANY GREAT SIGHTS n MEDIEVAL "ARGA AND THE SPA TOWN OF "AGNI DI ,UCCA ARE THE ONLY HISTORIC TOWNS n BUT FOR ANYONE WITH AN INTEREST IN HIKING OR lNE SCENERY THERE ARE REWARDS APLENTY -UCH OF THE 'ARFAGNANA IS PROTECTED AS A REGIONAL NATURE RESERVE WHOSE EXCELLENT ON THE GROUND ORGANIZATION HAS MAPPED AND SIGN POSTED A GOOD RANGE OF WALKS 4HE BEST OF THESE ARE ON THE EAST OF THE 3ERCHIO VALLEY UP IN THE MOUNTAINOUS /RECCHIELLA RANGE 4HE 3ERCHIOS WESTERN mANKS COMPRISE THE EQUALLY SPECTACULAR MOUNTAINS OF THE !LPI !PUANE BEST REACHED FROM THE COASTAL SIDE SEE P )F YOU DONT HAVE YOUR OWN TRANSPORT THE BEST WAY TO SEE THE 'ARFAGNANA IS ON THE TRAIN LINE WHICH RUNS THE ENTIRE LENGTH OF THE 3ERCHIO PAST "ARGA AND THE REGIONS RATHER LACKLUSTRE HUB #ASTELNUOVO DI 'ARFAGNANA n THE HANDIEST PLACE
TO STAY AS A BASE FOR EXPLORING 4HE LINE THEN CUTS THROUGH THE HEAD OF THE VALLEY TO !ULLA CENTRE OF THE ,UNIGIANA FROM WHERE YOU CAN DROP DOWN BY TRAIN TO ,A 3PEZIA IN ,IGURIA AND COMPLETE A LOOP BACK TO ,UCCA VIA -ASSA AND 6IAREGGIO 3INCE "AGNI DI ,UCCAS TRAIN STATION IS ABOUT KM OUT OF TOWN ITS BEST TO TRAVEL THERE BY BUS FROM ,UCCA /THER BUSES FROM ,UCCA RUN UP AND DOWN THE VALLEY WITH STOPS IN "ARGA #ASTELNUOVO DI 'ARFAGNANA AND ELSEWHERE
4HE ,OWER 3ERCHIO VALLEY
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"AGNI DI ,UCCA AND AROUND
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!LTHOUGH THE ROAD NORTH UP THE 3ERCHIO VALLEY SOON LEAVES ,UCCA BEHIND THERES SOMETHING LABORIOUS ABOUT THE lRST PART OF THE JOURNEY WITH DUSTY HILLS AND PATCHES OF LIGHT INDUSTRY DOTTING THE WAY TO "ARGA KM NORTH ! POSSIBLE DETOUR IS THE 0IEVE DI "RANCOLI A TWELFTH CENTURY ABBEY REACHED BY A TWIST ING HILLSIDE ROAD ON THE EAST BANK OF THE VALLEY KM OUT OF ,UCCA -ORE EASILY VISITED WITH ITS OWN RAIL STOP IS $)%#)-/ OVER ON THE WEST BANK )TS ,ATIN NAME IS EXPLAINED BY A PAST AS A 2OMAN OUTPOST POSITIONED TEN 2OMAN MILES KM FROM ,UCCA .O MORE THAN A HAMLET IT IS DOMINATED BY A LARGE WHITE 2OMANESQUE CAMPANILE CLEARLY VISIBLE FROM THE RIVER 3OME KM ON ROAD AND RAIL LINE BYPASS "/2'/ ! -/::!./ WHICH COMPRISES A SINGLE COBBLED STREET OF MEDIEVAL HOUSES AND THE FAMOUS 0ONTE DELLA -ADDALENA OR 0ONTE DEL $IAVOLO .ARROW STEEP AND ELEGANT THIS STRANGE lVE ARCHED BRIDGE WAS CONSTRUCTED IN THE ELEVENTH CENTURY !CCORDING TO LEGEND IT WAS BUILT BY THE $EVIL IN EXCHANGE FOR THE SOUL OF THE lRST PERSON TO CROSS IT AS IN EVERY %UROPEAN VILLAGE WHERE A VERSION OF THIS TALE SURVIVES THE VILLAGERS OUTFOXED 3ATAN BY SENDING ACROSS AN UNSUSPECTING ANIMAL n IN THIS CASE A DOG !CCOMMODATION INCLUDES 0ENSIONE 'ALLO D/RO 6IA DEL "RENNERO WHOSE SEVEN ROOMS SHARE A SINGLE BATHROOM AND TWO STAR )L 0ESCATORE 6IA 0RIMO -AGGIO WITH EIGHT EN SUITE DOUBLES
4HOUGH IT HAD BEEN A SPA FOR CENTURIES "!'.) $) ,5##! KM NORTH OF ,UCCA HIT THE SOCIAL BIG TIME ONLY IN THE EARLY NINETEENTH CENTURY WHEN THE PATRONAGE OF %LISA "ACIOCCHI BROUGHT IN %UROPES FASHIONABLE ELITE 4HE TOWN BOASTED ONE OF %UROPES lRST OFlCIAL CASINOS n ROULETTE WAS INVENTED HERE n AND WAS GRACED BY THE PRESENCE OF SUCH LUMINARIES AS "YRON 3HELLEY "ROWNING AND (EINE 4ODAY "AGNI DI ,UCCA RETAINS ITS ELEGANCE AND PRETTY SURROUNDINGS THE ATMOS PHERE IS FAIRLY SUBDUED ! DOZEN REASONABLY PRICED HOTELS SPREAD OUT ALONG THE VALLEY CATER TO THOSE WHOVE COME TO SOAK IN THE SALTY OR SULPHUROUS WATERS &OR SOME OLD WORLD CHARM TRY THE TWO STAR 3VIZZERO 6IA # #ASALINI !PRILn3EPT THE ONE STAR 2OMA 6IA 5MBERTO ) -ARCHn/CT OR THE THREE STAR "RIDGE KM AWAY IN THE SQUARE AT 0ONTE A 3ERRAGLIO WWWBRIDGE HOTELIT 4HE BEST PLACE TO EAT IS THE #IRCOLO $EI &ORESTIERI 0IAZZA 6ARRAUD CLOSED -ON 4UES LUNCH WHICH SERVES FOOD BOTH EXQUISITE AND INEXPENSIVE IN A BEAUTIFUL BUILDING WITH A COLUMNED TERRACE 4HE BUSY PIZZERIA $A 6INICIO LIES A BLOCK DOWNSTREAM FROM THE BRIDGE CLOSED -ON 4HE ,IMA VALLEY
%AST OF "AGNI THE ,IMA VALLEY A TRIBUTARY OF THE 3ERCHIO RISES TOWARDS THE BORDER WITH %MILIA 2OMAGNA 4WO BUSES DAILY MORNING AND AFTERNOON MAKE THE RUN OVER THE HILLS TO 3AN -ARCELLO 0ISTOIESE THE AFTERNOON SERVICE CONTINU ING TO THE SKIING AND WALKING CENTRE OF !BETONE
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)N THE VALLEY ITSELF THERE ARE SEVERAL POSSIBLE ROUGH ROAD DIVERSIONS TO VILLAGES WITH ANCIENT CHURCHES AND SPECTACULAR MOUNTAIN SURROUNDINGS 0IEVE DI #ON TRONE KM NORTHEAST OF "AGNI HAS A STRANGE OLD CHURCH IN RED STONE FRONTED BY A FACADE COVERED WITH ODD DIAGONAL MOTIFS 3AN #ASSIANO KM FURTHER HAS A TWELFTH CENTURY CHURCH WITH A WONDERFUL CARVED FACADE THREE TIERS OF VERY SHALLOW ARCHES AND A MUCH OLDER AND DIRTIER TOWER THAT CUTS OFF HALF THE MARBLE FACED FRONT *UST SOUTH OF THE VALLEY ,UCCHIO CASCADING DOWN THE MOUNTAINSIDE KM FROM "AGNI IS CROWNED BY A CASTLE RUIN 0AST ,UCCHIO YOU ENTER THE PROVINCE OF 0ISTOIA NEAR 3!. -!2#%,,/ 0)34/)%3% THE BUSINESS CENTRE OF THESE MOUNTAINS 4HE MAIN ROAD NORTH OF HERE n A CONTINUATION OF THE . FROM 0ISTOIA n LEADS KM TO !"%4/.% THE NEAREST WINTER SPORTS RESORT TO &LORENCE )TS SIX CHAIR LIFTS CAN COPE WITH AN HOURLY CAPACITY OF PEOPLE AND AT THE HEIGHT OF THE SKIING SEASON THE SYSTEM IS TESTED TO THE FULLEST EVEN IN SUMMER THERES OFTEN NOT TOO MUCH SPACE IN THE TOWNS THIRTY ODD HOTELS AS THOUSANDS COME UP FROM THE SWEL TERING LOWLANDS TO REVIVE THEMSELVES IN THE MOUNTAIN AIR !S A PACKAGE TOUR DESTINATION !BETONE ISNT TOO BAD BUT ITS NOT A PLACE TO GO OUT OF YOUR WAY TO SEE 7ITH YOUR OWN TRANSPORT YOU COULD MAKE A MORE EXCITING APPROACH TO !BETONE BY TAKING THE HIGH MOUNTAIN ROAD FROM "AGNI DI ,UCCA TO -ON TEFEGATESI AND THEN OVER THE MAIN RIDGE OF THE /RECCHIELLA IMPASSABLE IN BAD WEATHER AND POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS AT ANY TIME OF YEAR n CONSULT THE TOURIST OFlCE BEFORE SETTING OUT TO THE DRAMATIC /RRIDO DI "OTRI GORGE BEFORE CLIMBING UP TO THE PASS OF &OCE A 'IOVO M
"ARGA AND AROUND 4HE ANCIENT HILL TOWN OF "!2'! n POISED KM EAST OF ITS TRAIN STATION ON THE 3ERCHIO n MARKS THE START OF THE 'ARFAGNANAS BEST SCENERY DOMINATED BY HILLS AND INCREDIBLY LUSH VEGETATION ! COUPLE OF TEMPTING MINOR ROADS LEAD INTO THE WILD COUNTRY OF THE /RECCHIELLA OFFERING STUNNING VIEWS OVER STEEP WOODED SLOPES AND ACROSS TO THE JAGGED PROlLES OF THE !LPI !PUANE 4HE OLD VILLAGE IS QUIET AND PRETTY WITH A LONG TRADITION OF INDEPENDENCE AND A STRONG ECONOMIC BASE FOUNDED ON SILK AND LATER WOOL FELT HATS BECAME A SPECIALITY IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY )T GREW UP ORIGINALLY AROUND A ,OMBARD CASTLE AND WAS BESIEGED BY ,UCCA AND 0ISA BEFORE FALLING TO &LORENCE UNDER WHOSE INmUENCE IT REMAINED UNTIL 7HERE IT DIFFERED FROM OTHER ,UCCHESI STRONGHOLDS WAS IN ITS RULE BY ELECTED COUNCIL A SYSTEM IT RETAINED EVEN UNDER THE &LORENTINES 4HE 4OWN
"ARGAS $UOMO 3AN #RISTOFANO WAS FOUNDED IN THE NINTH CENTURY AND EXPANDED OVER THE NEXT FOUR HUNDRED YEARS WITH REMEDIAL WORK IN AFTER A SEVERE EARTHQUAKE )T STANDS AT THE VILLAGES HIGHEST POINT FRONTED BY A TERRACE THAT PROVIDES A HUGE PANORAMA OF ROOFTOPS MOUNTAINS AND VILLA SPOTTED HILLS "UILT IN A HONEY BLONDE STONE KNOWN AS ALBERESE DI "ARGA THE FACADE PROBABLY ADAPTED FROM PART OF THE EARLIEST CHURCH IS DECORATED IN A SHALLOW PATTERN OF ,OMBARD 2OMANESQUE INmUENCED RELIEFS AND TINY ARCHES A DELICATE CONTRAST TO THE CAMPANILE WHICH SEEMS TO HAVE ERUPTED FROM THE TILED ROOF ,EFT OF THE DOOR IS A WONDERFUL LITTLE RELIEF OF AN OBVIOUSLY CONVIVIAL FEAST SCULPTED IN ON THE ARCHITRAVE IS AN EQUALLY RUSTIC HARVEST SCENE AND TWIN LIONS )NSIDE THE NAVES ARE BEAUTIFULLY DIVIDED BY LOW WALLS OF INLAID MARBLE AND OVERLOOKED BY A SUPERLATIVE AND IDIOSYNCRATIC PULPIT WIDELY CONSIDERED ONE OF THE lNEST SUCH CREATIONS PRIOR TO THE PULPITS OF .ICOLA AND 'IOVANNI
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0ISANO IN 0ISA 3IENA AND ELSEWHERE 0ROBABLY CREATED BY THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY SCULPTOR 'UIDO "IGARELLI DA #OMO OR A PUPIL IT CONSISTS OF A HUGE RECTANGULAR STAND LAV ISHLY CARVED WITH SCENES FROM THE 3CRIPTURES AND SUPPORTED BY FOUR RED MARBLE PILLARS THE FRONT PAIR OF WHICH ARE PROPPED UP BY ANOTHER PAIR OF LIONS ONE WITH AN INANE SMIRK SURMOUNTS A DRAGON A SYM BOL OF EVIL WHILE THE OTHER STANDS ON A MAN A SYMBOL OF HERESY WHO IS SIMULTANEOUSLY STROKING AND STAB BING THE ANIMAL 4HE REAR LEFT PILLAR IS SUPPORTED BY A GROTESQUE DWARF SNUB NOSED SYMBOL OF THE PAGAN WORLD 4HE CHURCHS OTHER UNMISS ABLE ARTEFACT IS A TENTH OR TWELFTH CENTURY STATUE OF 3T #HRISTOPHER LOOKING RATHER LIKE A HUGE WOODEN PUPPET CONTINUING THE BUILDINGS ECCENTRIC STREAK THE SAINT CARRIES A CHILD ON ONE SHOULDER AND A CLUB THE SIZE OF A SMALL TREE ON THE OTHER !ROUND THE CHURCH YOULL SPOT A CLUSTER OF DELLA 2OBBIA TERRACOTTAS 5 "ARGA IN THE RIGHT CHAPEL FRESCOES ON SEVERAL PILLARS A CARVED CHOIR SCREEN AND TWO 'IOTTESQUE #RUCIlXES n THE OVERPOWERINGLY FRAMED EXAMPLE ABOVE THE ALTAR IS PARTICULARLY GOOD *UST BELOW THE $UOMO TO THE LEFT THE CENTRO STORICO SIGNS POINT THE WAY TO THE "AROQUE CHAPEL OF 3ANTISSIMO #ROCIlSSO DEI "IANCHI AN ODDLY ATTRACTIVE EXTRAVAGANCE WITH A BLUE GILT ALTAR AND FOUR DIVERSELY EXCESSIVE SIDE CHAPELS !LSO WORTH A QUICK LOOK UP BY THE CATHEDRAL IS THE -USEO #IVICO DEL 4ERRITORIO DI "ARGA 0ALAZZO 0RETORIO !RRINGO DEL $UOMO !PRILn/CT HOURS VARY CALL + A COLLECTION OF GEOLOGICAL AND PALEOLOGICAL EXHIBITS TRACING THE AREAS PREHISTORIC BACKGROUND 'ROTTA DEL 6ENTO
&ROM 'ALLICANO ACROSS THE RIVER FROM "ARGA TRAIN STATION YOU CAN DRIVE WEST FOR KM FOLLOWING THE BOTTOM OF THE 4URRITE VALLEY TO WHAT IS RATED AS 4USCANYS BEST CAVE THE RATHER COMMERCIALIZED 'ROTTA DEL 6ENTO IN &/2./6/ ,!33/ ARRIVE EARLY TO MISS THE CROWDS 4HE GUIDES PUT ON THREE DIFFERENT TOURS DAILY !PRILn/CT THROUGH THE CAVERNS AND LAKES OF THIS BIZARRE SUBTERRANEAN LANDSCAPE LASTING EITHER ONE HOUR ON THE HOUR AMnNOON nPM + TWO HOURS AM PM PM PM + OR THREE HOURS AM PM + )N WINTER .OVn-ARCH ALL THREE TOURS RUN ON 3UNDAYS AND PUBLIC HOLIDAYS WHILE ONLY THE ONE HOUR VISIT IS AVAILABLE FROM -ONDAY TO 3ATURDAY 0RACTICALITIES
)TS A LONG HAUL UP FROM "ARGAS TRAIN STATION TO THE TOWN COMING FROM ,UCCA ITS EASIER TO USE THE REGULAR BUS HR MIN !LL BUSES DEPART FROM THE 0ORTA
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2EALE ALONGSIDE THE BIG CAR PARK WHERE THE ROAD STOPS OUTSIDE THE WALLS "ARGAS TOURIST OFlCE IS AT 6IA DI -EZZO -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN AMnNOON nPM WWWBARGANEWSCOM CHECK THEIR WEBSITE FOR DETAILS OF THE TOWNS TWO SMALL HIGH QUALITY SUMMER MUSIC FESTIVALS "ARGA *AZZ AND /PERA "ARGA 3EVERAL HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS ARE RANGED ALONG THE ROAD NORTH DOWN TO THE 3ER CHIO AT !LBIANO A RATHER SCRAPPY NEIGHBOURHOOD BUT WITH GOOD VIEWS !IM FOR THE THREE STAR 6ILLA ,IBANO 6IA DEL 3ASSO WWWHOTELVILLALIBANO COM NEXT TO THE TOWN PARK AND LINKED TO A NICE RESTAURANT WITH A GAR DEN TERRACE OPEN TO GUESTS ONLY 4HE THREE STAR !LPINO IS AT 6IA 0ASCOLI WWWBARGAHOLIDAYCOM CLOSED .OV *UST SOUTH OF "ARGA IN &ORNACI DI "ARGA NEAR THE TRAIN STATION IS THE TWO STAR 'ORIZIA 6IALE #ESARE "ATTISTI WITH A GARDEN AND LUNCH ONLY RESTAURANT
#ASTELNUOVO DI 'ARFAGNANA
\ 4HE 'ARFAGNANA
'ARFAGNANAS MAIN TOWN #!34%,.5/6/ $) '!2&!'.!.! IS A DISAP POINTMENT DESPITE ITS MOUNTAIN RINGED LOCATION ! RATHER FEATURELESS SPRAWL IT HAS A DAYTIME MARKET BUSTLE TO ITS CENTRE BUT VIRTUALLY NO LIFE AFTER PM EXCEPT ON BALMY SUMMER EVENINGS (OWEVER #ASTELNUOVO IS THE OBVIOUS BASE IF YOU INTEND TO EXPLORE THE /RECCHIELLA 3OME OF THE MOUNTAIN ROADS THAT RADIATE EAST AND WEST OFFER ASTOUNDING VIEWS FOR DRIVERS AND THE VILLAGES AROUND ARE HIGHLY ATTRACTIVE &OR SERIOUS HIKING ITS ALSO WORTH STOPPING IN ORDER TO PICK UP MAPS AND INFORMA TION 4HE ONLY THING TO SEE IS THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY 2OCCA BUILT BY THE %STE DUKES OF &ERRARA AND BEST KNOWN FOR ITS FORMER COMMANDER THE POET !RIOSTO AUTHOR OF /RLANDO &URIOSO "Y ALL ACCOUNTS HE DIDNT MUCH ENJOY HIS TOUR OF DUTY IN THE S AND MOURNFUL EVOCATIONS OF THE AREAS LANDSCAPE WERE TO COLOUR MUCH OF HIS LATER POETRY 4HE REST OF THE TOWN WAS BADLY DAMAGED BY BOMBING IN 7ORLD 7AR )) THOUGH A LOVELY TERRACOTTA OF 3T *OSEPH AND THE !NGELS ATTRIBUTED TO 6ER ROCCHIO OR THE DELLA 2OBBIA SURVIVED ON THE $UOMOS NORTH WALL 0RACTICALITIES
4HERE ARE TWO TOURIST OFlCES IN 0IAZZA DELLE %RBE JUST BEYOND THE ARCH OF THE TOWNS MAIN SQUARE 0IAZZA 5MBERTO ) 4HE MORE HELPFUL IS THE PARK VISI TOR CENTRE DAILY AMnPM nPM WHICH OFFERS A WEALTH OF INFORMATION ON TREKKING LOCAL PRODUCE AND RURAL TOURISM IN THE 'ARFAGNANA AS WELL AS AN ACCOMMODATION BOOKING SERVICE WITH A WIDE RANGE OF HOTELS AGRITURISMI AND RIFUGI 4HE 0RO ,OCO ACROSS THE SQUARE SUMMER DAILY AMnPM nPM WINTER -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM IS MAINLY CONCERNED WITH THE TOWN ITSELF AND ,UCCA &OR SPE CIALIZED CLIMBING INFORMATION CONTACT THE #LUB !LPINO OFlCE WWWGARFAGNANACAIIT BELOW THE CAR PARK IN 6IA 6ITTORIO %MANUELE -OST PEOPLE STAY IN THE THREE STAR $A #ARLINO 6IA 'ARIBALDI UP THE STEEP STREET OUT OF 0IAZZA 5MBERTO ) A FAIRLY MOD ERN PLACE WITH A MODERATELY PRICED RESTAURANT &OR GOOD HOMEMADE FOOD AND LOCAL PRODUCE TRY THE EXCELLENT 6ECCHIO -ULINO 6IA 6ITTORIO %MANUELE AMnPM CLOSED -ON WWWILVECCHIOMULINOCOM A CENTURY OLD ENOTECA WITH INEXPENSIVE SNACKS INCLUDING GREAT PANINI AND SIM PLE MEALS IT ALSO SELLS A GOOD RANGE OF WINES BY THE BOTTLE OR GLASS #AFFÒ !RIOSTO CLOSED 3UN PM 0IAZZA 5MBERTO ) DOES WICKED COCKTAILS INCLUDING SOME FRUIT BASED CONCOCTIONS OF BARMAN 7ALTER "ORELLIS OWN INVENTION /UT OF TOWN IN ,E -ONARCHE IS THE THREE STAR ,A ,ATERNA WITH GOOD VIEWS AND A MODERATELY PRICED RESTAURANT
7ALKS IN THE /RECCHIELLA
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4HERES A CAMPSITE 0ARCO DI 0IELLA CARAVANS ALL YEAR TENTS !PRILn/CT IN A WOODED SETTING CLOSE TO THE TRAIN STATION AT 0IELLA TEN MINUTES FROM THE CENTRE 4O GET THERE FROM THE STATION TURN RIGHT AND lRST LEFT UP 6IALE DELLA 2IMEMBRANZA !SIDE FROM THIS SITE THE ONLY OFlCIAL CAMPING AREA IN THE 'ARFAGNANA IS -ONTE !RGEGNA *UNEn3EPT NEAR 'IUNCUGNANO M IN THE NORTH OF THE VALLEY ABOVE 0IAZZA AL 3ERCHIO
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)F YOURE GOING IN FOR SERIOUS WALKING IN THE /RECCHIELLA YOU SHOULD PICK UP ONE OF THE WIDELY AVAILABLE -ULTIGRAPHIC MAPS WHICH SHOW ALL THE MARKED TRAILS IN THE AREA 4HERE ARE THREE MARKED CIRCULAR WALKS PIONEERED BY !IRONE THE LEADING )TALIAN NATURAL HISTORY MAGAZINE WHICH YOU CAN TACKLE WITHOUT TOO MUCH PLANNING 4HERES A BOARD PLAN AT THE PARK CENTRE NEAR #ORlNO OR STAFF CAN HELP YOU MAKE SENSE OF THE ROUTES 7ALK HR TAKES IN THE SUMMIT OF THE CRAGGY LIMESTONE #IMA 0ANIA M AND THE NATURE RESERVE OF THE 0ANIA DI #ORlNO THE MOST IMPORTANT OF THE THREE SPECIAL RESERVES IN THE PARK AND A NOTED AREA FOR NESTING BIRDS OF PREY INCLUDING PEREGRINE FALCONS 7ALK HR PASSES THROUGH OAK AND BEECH FOREST AND A STRETCH OF GRASSY MEADOW 7ALK NEEDS TWO DAYS WITH A CHOICE OF OVERNIGHT STOPS 2IFUGIO # "AT TISTI OR IN AN EMERGENCY 2IFUGIO ,A "ARGETANA OR 2IFUGIO DI -ONTE 0RADO )N ADDITION TO THESE THERE ARE SEVEN #LUB !LPINO PATHS nHR IN THE AREA &OR A REAL CHALLENGE THERES A LONG DISTANCE MARKED PATH KNOWN AS 'ARFAGNANA 4REKKING WHICH STARTS AND lNISHES AT #ASTELNUOVO AND IS DESIGNED TO TAKE ABOUT TEN DAYS !S WELL AS TAKING IN THE BEST OF THE /RECCHIELLA lVE STAGES OF THIS WALK LEAD YOU THROUGH THE !LPI !PUANE &OR DETAILS CONTACT THE #OMUNITÌ -ONTANA DELLA 'ARFAGNANA AT THE PARK VISITOR CENTRE IN #ASTELNUOVO !N EVEN MORE AMBITIOUS LONG DISTANCE ROUTE THE LINEAR 'RANDE %SCURSIONE !PPENNINICA '%! RUNS THROUGH THE /RECCHIELLA ON ITS STAGE TRAIL FROM 3ANSEPOL CRO ACROSS THE ROOF OF 4USCANY TO THE 0ASSO DEI DUE 3ANTI ABOVE ,A 3PEZIA #ONTACT THE #LUB !LPINO FOR DETAILS WWWCAIIT
4HE /RECCHIELLA 4HOUGH HIGHER THAN THE SPECTACULAR !PUANE OPPOSITE THE /RECCHIELLA MOUN TAINS ARE GENERALLY TAMER n BUT NO LESS BEAUTIFUL ROUNDED AND THICKLY WOODED WITH STEEP LATERAL VALLEYS AND GENTLE GRASSY SLOPES ABOVE THE TREELINE 4HE ONE MONU MENT OF NOTE IS THE MONASTERY AT 3AN 0ELLEGRINO NOW HOME TO A MUSEUM OF 'ARFAGNANA TRADITIONS )F YOU HAVE TRANSPORT AND WHETHER YOU INTEND TO HIKE OR NOT ITS WELL WORTH FOLLOWING SOME OF THE MINOR ROADS INTO THE MOUNTAINS FOR A GLIMPSE OF ONE OF THE PRETTIEST AND LEAST KNOWN OF 4USCANYS SCENIC ENCLAVES 2EACHED FROM #ASTELNUOVO BY A BEAUTIFUL ROAD PAST MEADOWS THATCHED BARNS AND VIEWS #/2&)./ IS A SMALL HILL VILLAGE M WHICH PROVIDES WALKERS WITH A CHOICE OF THREE HOTELS THE 0ANORAMICO 6IA &ONDO LA 4ERRA -ARCHn$EC AND #ALIFORNIA 6IA "AGNO BOTH THREE STARS AND THE SIMILARLY PRICED TWO STAR ,A "AITA 6IA 0RATO ALL!IA *UNEn3EPT 4HE LAST IS DElNITELY THE BEST ITS RUN BY A PLEAS ANT FAMILY WITH MAMMA IN INSPIRED CHARGE OF THE KITCHEN )TS WORTH HEADING NORTH THROUGH THE WILD COUNTRYSIDE FOR KM TO VISIT THE EXCELLENT CHALET STYLE PARK CENTRE *ULY !UG DAILY AMnPM *UNE 3EPT 3AT 3UN AMnPM )T HAS A RESTAURANT BAR PHONES AN INFOR MATION AND EXHIBITION CENTRE A LAKE WITH NICELY SITED PICNIC SPOTS AND A lNE BOTANICAL GARDEN 4HE NEARBY 2IFUGIO )SERA !PRILn/CT + HAS ROOMS AND A CAMPING AREA
3AN 0ELLEGRINO IN !LPE
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&ROM #ASTELNUOVO THE DRIVE KM UP A MINOR ROAD NORTHEAST TO 3!. 0%, ,%'2)./ ). !,0% M OFFERS STUNNING VIEWS OVER THE STEEP VALLEYS AND RIDGES OF THE /RECCHIELLA 4WO DAILY SUMMER BUSES FROM #ASTELNUOVO TAKE THE PARALLEL AND ALMOST EQUALLY IMPRESSIVE MAJOR ROAD VIA #ASTIGLIONE 3AN 0ELLEGRINOS MAGNIlCENTLY SITED MONASTERY IS PARTLY GIVEN OVER TO AN EXCELLENT -USEO %TNOGRAlCO 0ROVINCIALE 6IA DEL 6OLTONE 4UESn3AT !PRIL -AY AMnPM nPM *UNEn3EPT AMnPM nPM /CTn-ARCH AMnPM PLUS 3UN IN *ULY !UG + 4HIS UNUSUALLY FASCI NATING DISPLAY OF THE 'ARFAGNANAS PEASANT TRADITIONS COVERS FOUR mOORS RANGING OVER EVERY ASPECT OF COUNTRY LIFE 4HE ADJACENT HAMLET HAS A BAR A COUPLE OF RUN DOWN PENSIONI AND SHOPS WHERE YOU CAN BUY LOCAL HONEY OIL MUSHROOMS GRAPPA AND SWEET CHESTNUT mOUR ONCE THE AREAS STAPLE DIET 9OU CAN lND OTHER ACCOMMODATION ON THE &OCE DELLE 2ADICI PASS AT THE TOP OF THE ROAD WHERE THERES A BLEAK AND ISOLATED HOTEL THE TWO STAR ,UNARDI 0ASSO DELLE 2ADICI $OWN THE PARALLEL ROAD TOWARDS #ASTIGLIONE STANDS THE THREE STAR )L #ASONE WWWHOTELILCASONECOM PERCHED AT M IN A GREAT LOCATION ABOUT KM FROM THE PASS ASK THE BUS DRIVER TO DROP YOU OFF
4HE EASTERN !PUANE
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.ORTH OF #ASTELNUOVO DI 'ARFAGNANA THE 3ERCHIO VALLEY mOOR IS ITSELF NOT VERY MEMORABLE BUT IF YOU HAVE TRANSPORT n OR CAN lT IN WITH VERY SPARSE BUS SERVICES n THERE ARE SEVERAL POSSIBLE DIVERSIONS INTO THE !LPI !PUANE TO THE WEST 4HE MOST OBVIOUS IS THE ROAD WHICH CLIMBS OVER THE MAIN RIDGE TO -ASSA A ROUTE COVERED BY A MORNING AND AFTERNOON BUS FROM #ASTELNUOVO 4HE ROAD IS NOT QUITE THE SCENIC BACKWATER IT APPEARS ON THE MAP BUT THE EARLY STRETCH UP THE 4URRITE VALLEY IS VERDANT AND TREE LINED WITH GOOD VIEWS OF THE VAST CRAGS OF THE 0ANIA DELLA #ROCE M -UCH OF THE ROAD WAS WIDENED FOLLOWING THE OPENING OF THE HYDROELECTRIC STATION AT 4ORRITE BUT IT DEGENERATES IMMEDIATELY BEYOND A TUNNEL INTO -ASSA PROVINCE 4HE ONE HAMLET OF CONSEQUENCE IS )3/,! 3!.4! WITH TWO INEXPENSIVE RESTAURANTS THE RUSTIC $A 'IACCO ESPECIALLY GOOD DURING THE MUSHROOM SEASON 3EPT /CT OVERLOOKING THE RIVER AND A SMALL LAKE AND ,A #ERAGETTA AT NEARBY #APANNE DI #AREGGINE CLOSED -ON ! SECTION OF THE LONG DISTANCE 'ARFAGNANA 4REKKING '4 SEE BOX OPPOSITE PASSES M WEST OF THE HAMLET AND YOU CAN FOLLOW IT NORTH TOWARDS ,AGO DI 6AGLI ABOUT HR WALKING OR SOUTH FOR A COUPLE OF HOURS TO THE ABOVE AVERAGE BAR AND ACCOMMODATION OF 2IFUGIO &REO 4HE BEST CIRCULAR WALK FROM )SOLA 3ANTA IS NORTH ON THE '4#!) MARKED TRAIL TO -ONTE 3UMBRA M AND BACK THE SAME WAY A STIFF CLIMB BUT ONLY ABOUT KM IN TOTAL ,AGO DI 6AGLI
.ORTH OF #ASTELNUOVO THE BEST DIVERSION COMES AT 0OGGIO KM WHERE THERES A CHOICE OF TWO ROADS /NE RUNS TO THE HIGH VILLAGE OF #!2%'').% M NOTABLE FOR LITTLE EXCEPT ITS VIEWS 4HE OTHER LEADS TO ,AGO DI 6AGLI AN ARTIlCIAL CREATION THAT SUBMERGED THE VILLAGE OF &ABBRICHE BUT LEFT THREE OTHERS INTACT n 2OGGIO 6AGLI DI 3OTTO AND 6AGLI DI 3OPRA %VERY TEN YEARS THE LAKE IS DRAINED AND THE GHOST VILLAGE SLOWLY REVEALED n NEXT DUE IN 2/'')/ IS IMMERSED IN CHESTNUT TREES IT BOASTS THE BIGGEST SINGLE SPECIMEN IN )TALY M ROUND AND M HIGH )T HAS A SMALL ONE STAR HOTEL ,A 'UARDIA 0IAZZA ,A 'UARDIA OR YOU MAY BE ABLE TO RENT ONE OF FOUR EN SUITE ROOMS AT #OLETTI 0IETRO 6IA DEL &IORE %QUALLY
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ENTICING 6!',) $) 3/44/ SITS ON AN ARM OF THE LAKE OFFERING BOAT RENTAL AND A RANGE OF WORTHWHILE WALKS SEE BOX )T HAS A POPULAR THREE STAR HOTEL ,E !LPI 6IA 6ANDELLI !PRILn3EPT OFFERING SOMEWHAT AVERAGE EVENING MEALS AND FOUR RECENTLY RENOVATED ROOMS AT 2ISTORANTE )L 0ESCA TORE 6IA %UROPA 6!',) $) 3/02! ABOVE THE LAKE HAS A FEW ROOMS FOR RENT !LL OF THESE VILLAGES HAVE TRATTORIE WHICH THOUGH SMALL OFFER EXCELLENT COOKING
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6AGLI DI 3OTTO PROVIDES THE STARTING POINT FOR A COUPLE OF EXCELLENT WALKS ONTO THE HIGHEST RIDGES OF THE !LPI !PUANE n FOR WHICH THE WIDELY AVAILABLE -ULTIGRAPHIC MAP IS INVALUABLE 4HE lRST PATH FOLLOWS THE ROAD SOUTHWEST UP THE 4AMBURA VALLEY BEFORE LINKING WITH THE #!) MARKED TRAIL YOU CAN THEN FOLLOW THIS WEST TO -ONTE &OCOLETTA M OR MORE INTERESTINGLY EAST TO #!) WHICH TAKES YOU TO THE TOP OF -ONTE 3UMBRA M AND THEN IN A WIDE CIRCLE VIA THE 4ASSETORA VALLEY BACK TO 6AGLI DI 3OTTO n A FANTASTIC AND VARIED DAYS WALK KM 4HE SECOND PATH #!) CLIMBS TO THE 0ASSO DELLA &OCOLACCIA M A MEETING POINT OF SEVERAL OTHER TRAILS 4HE PASS OFFERS EXCELLENT VIEWS TO THE !PUANES HIGHEST POINT -ONTE 0ISANINO M JUST TO THE NORTH AND GIVES ACCESS TO A SUPERB RIDGE TRAIL THAT TAKES YOU TO THE TOP OF -ONTE 'RONDILICE M &ROM THE SUMMIT YOU CAN CARRY ON TO #ARRARA OR NORTH ON THE '4 TO THE BED 2IFUGIO 3ERENAIA DIAMANTIDIAMANTI LIBEROIT !PRILn/CT AROUND + HALF BOARD THE STARTING POINT FOR MANY MORE TRAILS 4HE REFUGE IS ALSO ACCESSIBLE BY ROAD FROM THE 3ERCHIO VALLEY TO THE NORTH VIA 0IAZZA AL 3ERCHIO AND 'RAMOLAZZO
4HE ,UNIGIANA &EW PEOPLE MAKE IT TO 4USCANYS NORTHERNMOST TIP THE ,UNIGIANA ! LAND OF ROCKY FORESTED LANDSCAPE WITH JUST TWO SIZEABLE TOWNS n !ULLA AND 0ONTRÏMOLI n THIS IS ONE OF THE MOST INSULAR REGIONS IN 4USCANY )TS ISOLATION WAS ENSURED OVER CENTURIES BY ITS MOUNTAINOUS APPROACHES ONLY BREACHED IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY BY THE CARVING OUT OF A RAIL TUNNEL AND TWISTING MOUNTAIN ROAD AT 0IAZZA AL 3ERCHIO 4HE ,UNIGIANAS NAME DERIVES FROM THE ,UNI AN ANCIENT TRIBE WHO PROVED A TOUGH NUT FOR THE 2OMANS TO CRACK AND WERE EQUALLY IMPERVIOUS FOR SOME CEN TURIES TO #HRISTIANITY ,ATER NUMEROUS WOULD BE RULERS BUILT CASTLES TO EXACT TOLLS FROM ANYONE PASSING THROUGH THE VALLEY n HENCE THE TOURIST BOARD NAME FOR THE AREA h,AND OF THE (UNDRED #ASTLESv -ANY OF THESE CASTLES ARE NOW IN PRIVATE HANDS AND MANY OTHERS WERE LEFT IN RUINS AFTER 7ORLD 7AR )) BUT THE REGION STILL REPAYS A VISIT FOR ITS SCENERY AND SELF CONTAINED ATMOSPHERE 4RAIN CONNECTIONS ARE FREQUENT AND !ULLA IS THE HUB OF AN EXTENSIVE BUS NETWORK %QUI 4ERME &OSDINOVO AND &IVIZZANO
4HE TRAIN FROM THE 'ARFAGNANA EMERGES FROM ITS LONG TUNNEL AT %15) 4%2-% WHICH ADVERTISES ITSELF FOR GUIDED TOURS OF ,A "UCA A CAVE ONCE INHABITED BY LIONS LEOPARDS AND .EOLITHIC PEOPLE CLOSED AT TIME OF WRITING 4HE TINY VILLAGE ENJOYS A SUPERB SCENIC BACKDROP OF CRAGS AND KNIFE EDGE PEAKS SITTING AT THE FOOT OF THE TOWERING )L 3OLCO CANYON AND BOASTS A LARGE OUTDOOR SWIMMING POOL *UNEn/CT DAILY nPM + HALF DAY + 4HE CENTRAL ,A 0OSTA
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HOTEL 6IA 0ROVINCIALE CLOSED *AN HAS AN INEXPENSIVE RESTAURANT AND GARDEN OR YOU COULD TRY THE THREE STAR (OTEL 4ERME 6IA .OCEV ERDE WWWHOTELTERMEEQUIIT (EADING TOWARDS THE COAST FROM HERE BY ROAD THE MOST INTERESTING ROUTE IS VIA &/3$)./6/ A BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED VILLAGE THAT SITS ALONG A SPUR OVERLOOKING STEEP WOODED VALLEYS (OST TO $ANTE IN THE #ASTELLO DELLA -ALASPINA HERE IS CERTAINLY THE BEST OF THE REGIONS FORTRESSES ALTHOUGH IT IS NOW CLOSED TO THE PUBLIC )F YOU WANT TO BREAK FOR A MEAL HEAD FOR THE LONG ESTABLISHED AND FAMILY RUN )L #UCCO 6IA #UCCO &)6)::!./ n TO THE NORTH ON THE . ROAD INTO %MILIA n IS A MORE SUB STANTIAL PLACE WITH ITS MEDIEVAL 0IAZZA -EDICEA DOMINATED BY A -EDICI FOUNTAIN AND A RETINUE OF &LORENTINE PALAZZI 4HE VILLAGE ALSO HAS A lNE THIRTEENTH CENTURY CHURCH 33 *ACOPO E !NTONIO WITH A HANDFUL OF 2ENAISSANCE PAINTINGS )F YOU WANT A ROOM OR MEAL THE OBVIOUS CHOICE IS THE CENTRAL TWO STAR (OTEL 2IS TORANTE 'IARDINETTO IN 6IA 2OMA RESTAURANT CLOSED -ON 9OU MIGHT PASS THIS WAY HEADING FOR THE 0ASSO DI #ERRETO M A WALKING AND SKIING CENTRE ON THE %MILIA 2OMAGNA BORDER %N ROUTE KM OUT OF &IVIZ ZANO LOOK FOR THE HAMLET OF 6ENDASO ON THE RIGHT HOME TO THE 2OMANESQUE CHURCH OF 3AN 0AOLO !ULLA AND AROUND
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!5,,! SQUEEZED ONTO A GREEN STRIP AT THE CONmUENCE OF TWO RIVERS WAS ALMOST TOTALLY DESTROYED IN THE LAST WAR AND HAS VIRTUALLY NOTHING OF NOTE EXCEPT FOR THE &ORTEZZA DELLA "RUNELLA A SIXTEENTH CENTURY 'ENOESE CASTLE THAT TESTI lES TO THE TOWNS EARLY STRATEGIC IMPORTANCE AND CONTAINS A SMALL NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM 4UESn3AT AMnNOON nPM + 7ITH TIME ON YOUR HANDS YOU MIGHT LOOK INTO THE PARISH CHURCH BUILT WITHIN THE RUINS OF THE EIGHTH CENTURY 3AN #APRASIO AN ABBEY THAT LONG DOMINATED THE HINTERLAND 9OUR BEST BET FOR REALLY GETTING TO GRIPS WITH THE ,UNIGIANA IS TO HEAD FOR SOME OF THE SURROUNDING VILLAGES MOST OF WHICH WERE FORTIlED BY THE -ALASPINA NOBLES 4RY ,ICCIANA .ARDI NAMED AFTER AN EARLY FREEDOM lGHTER SHOT IN WHILE LEADING AN UPRISING IN SOUTHERN )TALY HIS REMAINS ARE IN THE BIG SARCOPHA GUS IN THE VILLAGES 0IAZZA DEL -UNICIPIO #APRIGLIOLA KM SOUTH ON THE BORDER WITH ,IGURIA "IBOLA OR 0ONZANELLO ! MORE WELL DElNED TARGET IS 6),,!&2!.#! ). ,5.)')!.! HALFWAY FROM !ULLA TO 0ONTRÏMOLI AGAIN WITH THE RUINS OF A -ALASPINA CASTLE BUT OF MORE INTEREST FOR ITS -USEO %THNOGRAlCO SUMMER 4UESn3AT AMnNOON nPM WINTER SAME DAYS AMnNOON PLUS nPM &RIn3UN + /CCUPYING AN OLD MILL IN 6IA "ORGO THIS DOCUMENTS THE AREAS RURAL TRADITIONS WITH A SPECIAL NOD TO THE OMNIPRESENT SWEET CHESTNUT &ROM "!'./.% KM EAST THERE ARE OPPORTUNITIES FOR WALKS INTO THE REMOTE CHESTNUT COVERED RIDGES OF -ONTE 3ILLARA M AND -ONTE -ARMAGNA M 0ONTRÏMOLI
0/.42³-/,) IS THE ,UNIGIANAS BIGGEST CENTRE AND THE NORTHERNMOST TOWN IN 4USCANY 0ART IS STILL EVOCATIVELY MEDIEVAL ESPECIALLY THE AREA RAMBLING NORTH OF THE 4ORRE DEL #AMPANONE 4HE TOWER NOW THE $UOMOS CAMPANILE ORIGINALLY FORMED PART OF A FORTRESS BUILT BY ,UCCAS #ASTRUCCIO #ASTRACANI IN TO KEEP THE TOWNS WARRING FACTIONS APART HENCE ITS NICKNAME #ACCIAGUERRA n hCHASER AWAY OF WARv 4HE $UOMO ITSELF IS AN EXTRAORDINARY "AROQUE AFFAIR 4HE MOST CAPTIVATING THINGS IN THE TOWN HOWEVER ARE THE TWENTY OR SO PREHIS TORIC STELE HOUSED IN THE -USEO DEL #OMUNE 4UESn3UN SUMMER AMnNOON PM WINTER AMnNOON nPM + WHOSE HOME IS THE #ASTELLO DEL
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0IAGNARO A BLEAK FOURTEENTH CENTURY CASTLE 4HESE HIGHLY STYLIZED STATUES FALL INTO THREE GROUPS 4HE OLDEST DATE FROM n "# AND ARE CRUDE RECTANGULAR BLOCKS WITH JUST A h5v FOR A FACE AND ONLY THE SUGGESTION OF ARMS AND TRUNK 4HE SECOND GROUP n "# HAVE MORE ANGULAR HEADS AND MORE DETAIL THE LAST PIECES n "# ARE MORE SOPHISTICATED STILL AND USUALLY HAVE A WEAPON IN EACH HAND -OST STELE WERE FUNERARY HEADSTONES BUT HERE ITS THOUGHT THEY REPRESENTED A PAGAN COMMUNION BETWEEN HEAVEN THE HEAD EARTH THE ARMS AND THEIR WEAPONS AND THE UNDERWORLD THE BURIED BOTTOM THIRD 4HOSE WITH HEADS MISSING PERHAPS SUFFERED AT THE HANDS OF #HRISTIANS INTENT ON DOING AWAY WITH IDOLATRY &IFTEEN MINUTES WALK SOUTH OF THE TOWN THE SMALL CHURCH OF 3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATA WAS BUILT TO CELEBRATE AN APPEARANCE OF THE 6IRGIN IN IT CON TAINS A TRIO OF TREASURES THE MOST IMPORTANT AN OCTAGONAL MARBLE TEMPIETTO BY *ACOPO 3ANSOVINO THE OTHERS A lFTEENTH CENTURY !NNUNCIATION AND A &LORENTINE ALTARPIECE BY AN UNKNOWN ARTIST 0ONTRÏMOLI HAS THE ONLY TOURIST OFlCE IN THE ,UNIGIANA WWWLUNIGIANANET IN THE CENTRAL 0IAZZA -UNICIPIO OFF 0IAZZA 2EPUBBLICA %NQUIRE HERE ABOUT THE PLENTIFUL ACCOMMODATION POSSIBILITIES OR CALL AT THE THREE STAR .APOLEON 0IAZZA )TALIA WHICH HAS ITS OWN INEX PENSIVE RESTAURANT 4HE LOCAL CULINARY SPECIALITY IS A TYPE OF LARGE PANCAKE LIKE PASTA TESTAROLI AVAILABLE IN ANY ONE OF THE TOWNS TOP TRATTORIE $A "USSÒ 0IAZZA $UOMO CLOSED &RI EVES ON -ONn4HURS IS BEST A LOVELY SNUG PLACE THATS BEEN IN THE SAME FAMILY FOR GENERATIONS !NOTHER TRADITIONAL INEXPENSIVE PLACE IS THE 4RATTORIA DEL 'IARDINO DA "ACCIOTTINI 6IA 2ICCI !RMANI CLOSED WEEKDAYS IN *AN &EB WHICH SERVES HOMEMADE LOCAL FOOD THROUGHOUT THE DAY AND SPECIALIZES IN ,UNIGIANA CAKES AND PUDDINGS &OR DRINKS AND MORE WONDERFUL CAKES HEAD FOR THE HISTORIC #AFFÒ DEGLI 3VIZZERI AT 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA CLOSED -ON
4RAVEL DETAILS 4RAINS !ULLA TO #ASTELNUOVO DI 'ARFAGNANA DAILY HR %QUI 4ERME DAILY MIN &IVIZZANO DAILY MIN ,UCCA DAILY HR 0ONTRÏMOLI HOURLY MIN 6ILLAFRANCA IN ,UNIGIANA HOURLY MIN ,UCCA TO !ULLA DAILY HR "AGNI DI ,UCCA DAILY MIN "ARGA DAILY MIN #ASTELNUOVO DI 'ARFAGNANA DAILY HR %QUI 4ERME DAILY HR MIN &IVIZZANO DAILY HR MIN &LORENCE HOURLY nHR -ONTECATINI HOURLY MIN 0ESCIA HOURLY MIN 0IAZZA AL 3ERCHIO DAILY HR MIN 0ISA AIRPORT DAILY MIN 0ISA #ENTRALE HOURLY MIN 0ISTOIA HOURLY MIN 0RATO HOURLY HR 6IAREGGIO HOURLY MIN -ASSA TO ,IVORNO DAILY MIN 0ISA DAILY MIN 6IAREGGIO DAILY MIN
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!RRIVAL INFORMATION AND ACCOMMODATION 4RAINS ARRIVE AT 0ISA #ENTRALE STATION ON 0IAZZA DELLA 3TAZIONE ABOUT KM SOUTH OF THE !RNO "USES COME INTO THE NEARBY 0IAZZA 3AN !NTONIO &ROM EITHER THE #AMPO DEI -IRACOLI IS ABOUT TWENTY MINUTES WALK NORTH UP THE PEDESTRIANIZED #ORSO )TALIA AND ACROSS THE 0ONTE DI -EZZO OR A lVE MINUTE RIDE ON BUS FROM OUTSIDE THE TRAIN STATION LOCAL BUS TICKETS ARE SOLD AT A KIOSK TO THE RIGHT OUT OF THE STATION 4HERES AN OFlCIAL SIGNPOSTED CAR PARK OUTSIDE THE 0ORTA .UOVA JUST WEST OF THE #AMPO DEI -IRACOLI AND A FREE LONG TERM CAR PARK AT THE AIRPORT 4O PICK UP A MAP AND FULL HOTEL LISTS FOR THE CITY AND PROVINCE LOOK IN AT ONE OF THE TOURIST OFlCES CLOSE TO THE STATIONS ON 0IAZZA 6ITTORIO %MANUELE SUMMER
0ISAS 'ALILEO 'ALILEI AIRPORT WWWPISA AIRPORTCOM MOST VISI TORS POINT OF ENTRY TO 4USCANY LIES ABOUT KM SOUTH OF THE CITY CENTRE )T HAS AN IMPRESSIVE TURNOUT OF CAR RENTAL lRMS THOUGH ON THE SPOT DEALS ARE MORE EXPENSIVE THAN THOSE ARRANGED IN ADVANCE !LL REQUIRE A DEPOSIT TO COVER A FULL TANK OF FUEL USU ALLY YOU JUST LEAVE YOUR CREDIT CARD DETAILS 7HEN YOU RETURN THE CAR YOUD DO WELL TO REFUEL BEFORE GETTING TO THE AIRPORT SINCE PETROL IS PRICIER HERE THAN ELSEWHERE 4HE DRIVE TO &LORENCE IS STRAIGHTFORWARD AN AIRPORT SLIP ROAD TAKES YOU DIRECTLY ONTO THE MOTORWAY BUT THE ROAD INTO 0ISA IS SO CONFUSING THAT WITHOUT DIRECTIONS FROM THE CAR RENTAL DESK YOU MAY WELL END UP GETTING LOST )F YOUVE ARRIVED ON ONE OF THE BUDGET AIRLINES YOU CAN USE THE SHUTTLE BUSES THAT LEAVE ROUGHLY EVERY HOUR FROM IN FRONT OF THE TERMINAL AND ARRIVE AT &LORENCES 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA STATION SEVENTY MINUTES LATER 9OU CAN BUY TICKETS + SINGLE AT THE STAND RIGHT IN FRONT OF YOU AS YOU COME OUT INTO THE AIRPORT CONCOURSE /THERWISE YOULL HAVE TO TAKE A TRAIN WHICH IS CHEAPER + IF OFTEN SLOWER nMIN IN TOTAL DEPENDING ON CONNECTIONS AT 0ISA #ENTRALE THERE ARE ONLY SEVEN DIRECT TRAINS DAILY AMnPM NO SERVICE BETWEEN PM AND PM BUT EVERY THIRTY MINUTES A SHUTTLE TRAIN RUNS FROM THE AIRPORT TO 0ISA #ENTRALE MIN WHERE YOU CAN CHANGE TO ONE OF THE HOURLY TRAINS TO &LORENCE JOURNEY TIME HR 4RAINS DEPART FROM A PLATFORM AT THE END OF THE AIRPORT CONCOURSE TO THE LEFT AS YOU EMERGE FROM !RRIVALS 4ICKETS CAN BE BOUGHT FROM THE OFlCE AT THE OPPOSITE END OF THE CONCOURSE FROM THE STATION 2EMEMBER TO VALIDATE YOUR TICKET IN THE PLATFORM MACHINES BEFORE BOARDING THE TRAIN )F YOURE ARRIVING LATE YOULL HAVE TO TAKE THE lVE MINUTE BUS + EVERY MIN TRAIN OR TAXI RIDE TO 0ISA #ENTRALE FROM WHERE TRAINS TO &LORENCE START RUNNING FROM AROUND AM 2ETURNING FROM &LORENCE TO 0ISA !EROPORTO SHUTTLE BUSES RUN FROM AM TO PM !FTER THAT THERE IS A DIRECT TRAIN AT PM BUT OTHERWISE YOULL HAVE TO TAKE THE TRAIN TO 0ISA #ENTRALE AND THEN GET A BUS TRAIN OR TAXI
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4RANSPORT FROM 0ISA AIRPORT
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LATE MEDIEVAL SCULPTURE IN )TALY MUCH OF IT FROM THE WORKSHOPS OF .ICOLA AND 'IOVANNI 0ISANO 4HE CITYS POLITICAL ZENITH CAME IN THE SECOND HALF OF THE ELEVENTH CENTURY WITH A SERIES OF VICTORIES OVER THE 3ARACENS WHOM THE 0ISANS DROVE OUT FROM #ORSICA 3ARDINIA AND THE "ALEARIC ISLANDS AND HARASSED EVEN IN 3ICILY $ECLINE SET IN EARLY HOWEVER WITH DEFEAT AT SEA BY THE 'ENOESE IN FOLLOWED BY THE SILTING UP OF THE HARBOUR &ROM THE CITY WAS GOVERNED BY &LORENCE WHOSE -EDICI RULERS RE ESTABLISHED THE 5NIVERSITY OF 0ISA ONE OF THE INTELLECTUAL FORCING HOUSES OF THE 2ENAISSANCE 'ALILEO 0ISAS MOST FAMOUS NATIVE WAS ONE OF THE TEACHERS THERE 3UBSEQUENT CENTURIES SAW THE CITY FADE INTO PROVINCIALITY n ITS STATE WHEN THE 3HELLEYS AND "YRON TOOK PALAZZI HERE FORGING WHAT 3HELLEY TERMED THEIR hPARADISE OF EXILESv 4HE MODERN CITY HAS BEEN REVITALIZED BY ITS AIRPORT AND INDUSTRIAL SUBURBS AND OF COURSE MONEY FROM TOURISM
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!MONG REGULAR EVENTS LOOK OUT FOR CONCERTS AT THE 4EATRO #OMUNALE 6ERDI IN 6IA 0ALESTRO AND FOR MORE OFFBEAT AND CONTEMPORARY SHOWS EVEN THE ODD ROCK CONCERT HELD IN A FORMER CHURCH AT THE END OF 6IA 3AN :ENO 4HE CITY ALSO HAS AN ADVENTUROUS ART HOUSE CINEMA #INEMA .UOVO IN 0IAZZA DELLA 3TAZIONE -OST PEOPLE COVER 0ISA AS A DAY TRIP OR STAY JUST ONE NIGHT SO ACCOMMODA TION IS USUALLY NOT TOO HARD TO lND )N SUMMER HOWEVER ITS STILL BEST TO PHONE AHEAD OR ARRIVE EARLY IN THE DAY 0ROSPECTS FOR BUDGET TRAVELLERS ARE GOOD WITH TWO HOSTELS ONE WOMEN ONLY AND A FAIRLY CENTRAL CAMPSITE 2OYAL 6ICTORIA ,UNGARNO 0ACINOTTI WWWROYALVICTORIAIT 2UN BY THE SAME FAMILY SINCE ITS FOUNDATION IN THIS OLD FASHIONED GOOD LOOKING AND IN PLACES RATHER FRAYED THREE STAR IS THE MOST WELCOMING AND CHARACTERFUL OF CENTRAL 0ISAS HOTELS 2OOMS ON THE RIVERFRONT SIDE CAN BE NOISY THOUGH THE VIEWS MORE THAN COMPENSATE #OPIOUS BUFFET BREAKFAST TOO 3ERENA 6IA $ #AVALCA SER ENAPISA PISAONLINEIT ! CHEAP ONE STAR AND A FAVOURITE WITH STUDENTS 4HIRTEEN ROOMS WITH JUST THREE BATHROOMS
(OSTELS #ASA DELLA 'IOVANE 6IA #ORRIDONI #HURCH RUN WOMENS HOSTEL lVE MINUTES WALK FROM THE STATION 3INGLE ROOM + DOUBLE + /STELLO DELLA 'IOVENTá 6IA 0IETRASANTINA -ADONNA DELL!CQUA WWWPISAONLINEIT!LBERGO$ELLA'IOVENTU 4HIS NON () HOSTEL IS KM FROM #AMPO DEI -IRACOLI )F YOU DONT WANT TO WALK TAKE BUS FROM THE STA TION OR THE AIRPORT -AKE SURE YOU HAVE MOSQUITO REPELLENT IN SUMMER AS THE HOSTEL IS RIGHT BY A SWAMP ALTHOUGH IT BENElTS FROM A NEARBY SUPER MARKET PIZZERIA AND BURGER JOINT 2ECEPTION OPENS PM $ORM BED +
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!LESSANDRO DELLA 3PINA 6IA !LESSANDRO DELLA 3PINA n WWWHOTELDELLASPINA IT 4HIS THREE STAR HOTEL IS NOT THE BEST LOCATED PLACE IN CENTRAL 0ISA ITS IN A QUIET SIDE STREET TO THE EAST OF THE STATION AND THE BUILDING ISNT TERRIBLY CHARAC TERFUL BUT ITS SPACIOUS SMART AND WELL RUN !MALlTANA 6IA 2OMA 0LEASANT IF UNEXCEPTIONAL TWO STAR A COUPLE OF MINUTES SOUTH OF THE #AMPO DEI -IRACOLI "OLOGNA 6IA -AZZINI WWW ALBERGOBOLOGNACOM ,ARGE THREE STAR ON THE STATION SIDE OF THE RIVER WITH CHOICE OF SHARED OR PRIVATE BATHROOM
#LIO 6IA 3AN ,ORENZINO #LEAN AND WELCOMING ONE STAR PLACE AT THE RIVER END OF #ORSO )TALIA $I 3TEFANO 6IA 3ANT!POLLONIA WWWHOTELDISTEFANOPISAIT 4IDY IF CHARACTERLESS THREE STAR HOTEL IN A QUIET STREET JUST OFF THE NORTH EAST SIDE OF 0IAZZA DEI #AVALIERI
'ALILEO 6IA 3ANTA -ARIA .INE BIG NICELY DECORATED ONE STAR ROOMS WITH AND WITHOUT PRIVATE BATHROOMS NOT THE QUIETEST HOTEL IN TOWN BUT CENTRAL AND GOOD VALUE 'IARDINO 0IAZZA -ANIN GIARDINO CSINFOIT -ODERN SIXTEEN ROOM THREE STAR HOTEL ITS MAIN ATTRACTION IS THAT ITS VERY NEAR THE #AMPO DEI -IRACOLI
(ELVETIA 6IA $ON ' "OSCHI 3POTLESS AND FRIENDLY ONE STAR OFF 0IAZZA !RCIVES COVADO OFFERING DOUBLES WITH OR WITHOUT PRIVATE BATHROOM -ILANO 6IA -ASCAGNI WWW PISAONLINEITHOTELMILANO 3ITUATED IN A SIDE STREET LEADING INTO 0IAZZA DELLA 3TAZIONE THIS TWO STAR IS ONE OF THE BETTER HOTELS IN THE STATION AREA 2INASCENTE 6IA DEL #ASTELLETTO 4HIS VERY POPULAR ONE STAR OCCU PIES AN OLD PALAZZO SOUTH OF 0IAZZA DEI #AVALIERI 3HARED OR PRIVATE BATHROOMS
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#AMPSITES #AMPEGGIO 4ORRE 0ENDENTE 6IALE DELLE #ASCINE ,ARGE WELL MAINTAINED SITE WITH A LAUNDRY BAR POOL RESTAU RANT AND SHOP KM WEST OF THE #AMPO DEI -IRACOLI SIGNPOSTED FROM 0IAZZA -ANIN !PRIL TO MID /CT )NTERNAZIONALE 6IA ,ITORANEA -ARINA DI 0ISA ,ARGE ISH BEACH SITE KM WEST OF CENTRAL 0ISA -AYn3EPT -ARE E 3OLE 6IALE DEL 4IRRENO 0ISA #ALAMBRONE !NOTHER BEACH CAMPSITE KM FROM 0ISA TAKE BUS MARKED h4IR RENIA #ALAMBRONEv !PRILn3EPT
4HE #AMPO DEI -IRACOLI
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3INCE IT WAS lRST LAID OUT 0ISAS ECCLESIASTICAL CENTRE HAS BEEN KNOWN AS THE #AMPO DEI -IRACOLI OR &IELD OF -IRACLES AND THE SIGHT OF IT IS AS STUNNING TODAY AS IT MUST HAVE BEEN TO MEDIEVAL TRAVELLERS .OWHERE ELSE IN )TALY ARE THE KEY BUILDINGS OF A CITY n THE CATHEDRAL BAPTISTERY AND BELL TOWER n ARRAYED WITH SUCH PRECISION AND NOWHERE ELSE IS THERE SO BEAUTIFUL A CONTRAST OF STONEWORK AND SURROUNDING MEADOW 5NDERNEATH THE PAVEMENTS AND THE TURF LIES A MIX OF SAND AND SILT WHOSE INSTABILITY ACCOUNTS FOR THE CRAZY TILT OF THE ,EANING 4OWER AND OF ITS COMPANIONS 4AKE A CLOSE LOOK AT THE "APTISTERY AND YOULL SEE THAT ITS INCLINED SOME WAY OUT OF THE VERTICAL WHILE THE FACADE OF THE $UOMO IS A FEW DEGREES OUT OF TRUE AS WELL 4HE WEIRD ANGLES ARENT THE ONLY ODDITY THE TAPER ING DOMES OF THE "APTISTERY AND $UOMO WITH THE PRECARIOUS TOP STOREY OF THE ,EANING 4OWER BEHIND THEM COMPRISE THE STRANGEST SKYLINE IN 4USCANY 4HE SOUVENIR STALLS AROUND THE EDGE OF THE #AMPO ARE IN THEMSELVES QUITE A SIGHT OFFERING AN INEXHAUSTIBLE RANGE OF KITSCH DELIGHTS SUCH AS A SILVER PLATED PLASTIC REPLICA OF THE ,EANING 4OWER WITH A MERMAID WRAPPED ROUND ITS BASE n PRESUMABLY AN ARCANE REFERENCE TO 0ISAS MARITIME HISTORY 4HE ,EANING 4OWER
\ 0ISA
0ERHAPS THE STRANGEST FACT ABOUT THE ,EANING 4OWER 4ORRE 0ENDENTE IS THAT IT HAS ALWAYS TILTED "EGUN IN IT STARTED TO SUBSIDE WHEN IT HAD REACHED JUST THREE OF ITS EIGHT STOREYS BUT IT LEANED IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION TO THE PRESENT ONE /DD SHAPED STONES WERE INSERTED TO CORRECT THIS DElCIENCY WHEREUPON THE TOWER LURCHED THE OTHER WAY /VER THE NEXT YEARS A SUCCESSION OF ARCHITECTS CONTINUED TO EXTEND THE THING UPWARDS EACH ONE ENDEAVOURING TO COMPENSATE FOR THE ANGLE THE END RESULT BEING THAT THE MAIN PART OF THE TOWER IS SLIGHTLY BANANA SHAPED !ROUND 4OMMASO DI !NDREA DA 0ONTEDERA COMPLETED THE MAGNIlCENT STACK OF MARBLE AND GRANITE ARCADES BY CROWNING IT WITH A BELLCHAM BER SET CLOSER TO THE PERPENDICULAR THAN THE STOREYS BELOW IT SO THAT IT LOOKS LIKE A HAT SET AT A RAKISH ANGLE
4ICKETS FOR THE #AMPO DEI -IRACOLI SIGHTS
4HE TICKET OFlCE FOR THE #AMPO DEI -IRACOLI IS NEXT TO THE #AMPOS TOURIST OFlCE 4HE lVE MUSEUMS AND MONUMENTS OF THE #AMPO DEI -IRACOLI n THE $UOMO "APTIS TERY -USEO DELL/PERA #AMPOSANTO AND -USEO DELLE 3INOPIE n SHARE A COMPLICATED SYSTEM OF TICKETING !DMISSION TO THE $UOMO COSTS + EXCEPT FROM .OVEMBER TO -ARCH WHEN ITS FREE 3INGLE ADMISSION TO THE OTHER SIGHTS COSTS + !DMIS SION TO ANY TWO SIGHTS COSTS + AND COMBINED ADMISSION TO THE "APTISTERY -USEO DELL/PERA #AMPOSANTO AND -USEO DELLE 3INOPIE COSTS + "ETWEEN -ARCH AND /CTOBER YOU CAN ALSO BUY A + TICKET WHICH GIVES YOU ONE VISIT TO ALL THE #AMPOSANTO SIGHTS PLUS THE -USEO .AZIONALE DI 0ALAZZO 2EALE THE -USEO .AZIONALE DI 3AN -ATTEO THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA 3PINA AND THE 4ORRE 'UELFA DELLA #ITTADELLA 6ECCHIA 4HERES A SEPARATE TICKET + FOR THIRTY MINUTE GUIDED TOURS OF THE ,EANING 4OWER WHICH DEPART EVERY MIN EXPECT LONG QUEUES IN HIGH SEASON &OR AN EXTRA + YOU CAN PRE BOOK YOUR VISIT ONLINE AT WWWOPAPISAIT AS LONG AS YOURE MAKING YOUR RESERVATION AT LEAST SIXTEEN DAYS IN ADVANCE #HILDREN UNDER THE AGE OF ARE NOT ALLOWED INTO THE TOWER &INALLY THERE IS ALSO A JOINT + TICKET FOR THE -USEO .AZIONALE DI 3AN -ATTEO AND THE -USEO DI 0ALAZZO 2EALE AND A + TICKET FOR THE 4ORRE 'UELFA DELLA #ITTADELLA 6ECCHIA AND 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA 3PINA n THOUGH ITS WORTH POINTING OUT THAT 0ISAS MULTIPLE TICKETS ARE NOTORIOUSLY CHANGEABLE
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5 4HE ,EANING 4OWER
"Y THE END OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY THE TOWER WAS LEANING M FROM THE UPRIGHT AND NEARING ITS LIMITS 4HE COLLAPSE OF A CHURCH TOWER IN 0AVIA KILL ING FOUR PEOPLE CONCENTRATED MINDS ON THE DANGERS OF PROCRASTINATION AND IN THE ,EANING 4OWER WAS SHUT TO THE PUBLIC 3OON AFTER THE CLOSURE TEN STEEL BANDS WERE WRAPPED ROUND THE LOWEST SECTION OF THE TOWER TO PREVENT THE BASE FROM BUCKLING UNDER THE WEIGHT OF THE TONNES OF MARBLE ABOVE 6ARIOUS SCHEMES AIMED AT ARRESTING THE EFFECTS OF GRAVITY WERE DISCUSSED AND IN THE END IT WAS DECIDED TO PLACE MORE THAN TONNES OF LEAD INGOTS AT ITS BASE TO COUNTER BALANCE THE FORCE OF THE LEANING STONEWORK )N WHEN IT WAS CLEAR THAT THE WEIGHTS HAD STABILIZED THE STRUCTURE THE PROJECT ENTERED ITS SECOND PHASE WITH A DELICATE DRILLING OPERATION n SUPERVISED BY 0ROFESSOR *OHN "URLAND OF ,ONDONS )MPERIAL #OLLEGE n TO REMOVE WATER AND SILT FROM BENEATH THE TOWERS NORTHERN FOUNDATIONS 4HE RESULTING SUBSIDENCE CORRECTED THE BUILDINGS SOUTHWARDS TILT BY
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TEN PERCENT BRINGING IT BACK TO ITS POSITION AND TO ENSURE THAT IT STAYED THAT WAY FOR THE FORESEEABLE FUTURE YEARS ACCORDING TO 0ROFESSOR "URLAND THE FOUNDATIONS WERE STRENGTHENED AND STEEL REINFORCEMENT BARS WERE INSERTED INTO THE WALLS OF THE TOWER !FTER ELEVEN YEARS AND MILLION THE TOWER WAS OFlCIALLY REOPENED TO THE PUBLIC IN .OVEMBER 4HE THIRTY MINUTE GUIDED TOUR OF THE TOWER LEADS YOU TO THE BELLCHAMBER UP A DARK AND NARROW SPIRAL STAIRCASE OF STEPS AT A FAIRLY DISORIENTATING lVE DEGREE ANGLE )TS NOT FOR THE CLAUSTROPHOBIC OR ACROPHOBIC BUT YOU MIGHT THINK THE STEEP ADMISSION FEE IS WORTH IT FOR THE PRIVILEGE OF GETTING INSIDE ONE OF THE WORLDS MOST FAMOUS AND PERILOUS BUILDINGS 4HE OPENING HOURS ARE EXTREMELY COMPLICATED BUT THE BRIEFEST OPENING PERIOD IS FROM .OVEMBER TO &EBRUARY WHEN TOURS BEGIN AT AM AND lNISH AROUND PM FOR MOST OF THE SUMMER !PRILn3EPT THEY RUN FROM AM TO PM BUT FROM *UNE TO 3EPTEMBER THE LAST TOUR DEPARTS AT AROUND PM 4OURS ARE GIVEN IN %NGLISH BETWEEN !PRIL AND 3EPTEMBER AT AM PM AND PM &OR DETAILS ON HOW TO BOOK TICKETS SEE P 4HE $UOMO
4HE $UOMO -ARCH AMnPM !PRILn3EPT -ONn3AT AMnPM /CT AMn PM .OVn&EB AMnPM nPM 3UN ALL YEAR NO ADMITTANCE TO TOURISTS BEFORE PM WAS BEGUN A CENTURY BEFORE ITS CAMPANILE IN 7ITH ITS FOUR LEVELS OF VARIEGATED COLONNADES AND ITS SUBTLE INTERPLAY OF DARK GREY MARBLE AND WHITE STONE ITS THE ARCHETYPE OF THE 0ISAN 2OMANESQUE STYLE A MODEL OFTEN IMITATED BUT NEVER SURPASSED 3QUARES AND DISCS OF COLOURED MARBLE ARE SET INTO THE MAGNIlCENT FACADE BUT THE SOBERLY GRACEFUL EFFECT OF THE PRIMARY GREY AND WHITE IS SUCH THAT YOU NOTICE THESE STRONG TONES ONLY WHEN YOU LOOK CLOSELY %NTRANCE TO THE $UOMO IS USUALLY BY THE 0ORTALE DI 3AN 2ANIERI OPPOSITE THE ,EANING 4OWER BUT WHILE THEY ARE BEING RESTORED YOU MAY BE DIRECTED TO EITHER THE DOOR ON THE NORTH SIDE OR THE WEST DOOR 4HIS ORIGINAL BRONZE DOOR WAY OF THE MAIN FACADE SHOWS SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF #HRIST CAST AROUND BY "ONANNO 0ISANO lRST ARCHITECT OF THE ,EANING 4OWER THAT ARE POWERFULLY DIAGRAMMATIC THE -ASSACRE OF THE )NNOCENTS FOR EXAMPLE IS REPRESENTED BY THE SMALLEST POSSIBLE CAST n (EROD ONE MOTHER AND ONE SOLDIER 4HE 0ORTALES PLACE ON THE MAIN FACADE OPPOSITE THE "APTISTERY HAS BEEN TAKEN BY MASSIVE DOORS FROM THE WORKSHOP OF 'IAMBOLOGNA A PANOPLY OF HIGH 2ENAISSANCE DETAIL )NSIDE THE $UOMO THE IMPACT OF THE CRISP BLACK AND WHITE MARBLE OF THE LONG ARCADES n RECALLING THE -OORISH ARCHITECTURE OF #ØRDOBA n IS SLIGHTLY DIMINISHED BY THE INCONGRUOUS GILDED CEILING THE FRESCO IN THE SQUASHED CIRCLE OF THE DOME AND THE MASSIVE AIR VENTS BUNGED THROUGH THE UPPER ARCHES -UCH OF THE INTERIOR WAS REDECORATED AND SOME OF THE CHAPELS REMODELLED AFTER A lRE IN SO MOST OF THE PAINTINGS AND SCULPTURE ARE 2ENAISSANCE OR LATER 4HE MAGNIlCENT APSE MOSAIC OF #HRIST IN -AJESTY IS ONE OF THE SURVIVORS OF THE BLAZE )T WAS COMPLETED BY #IMABUE IN THE YEAR IN WHICH 'IOVANNI 0IS ANO BEGAN TO SCULPT THE CATHEDRALS EXTRAORDINARY PULPIT 4HIS WAS PACKED AWAY AFTER THE lRE SIXTEENTH CENTURY 0ISANS EVIDENTLY NO LONGER CONCURRING WITH THE ,ATIN INSCRIPTION AROUND THE BASE WHICH RECORDS THAT 'IOVANNI HAD hTHE ART OF PURE SCULPTUREx AND WOULD NOT KNOW HOW TO CARVE UGLY OR BASE THINGS EVEN IF HE WISHED TOv /NLY IN WAS IT REDISCOVERED AND REASSEMBLED IN THE NAVE 4HE LAST OF THE GREAT SERIES OF PULPITS CREATED IN 4USCANY BY 'IOVANNI AND HIS FATHER .ICOLA THE OTHERS ARE IN 3IENA AND 0ISTOIA IT IS A WORK OF AMAZING VIRTUOSITY THE WHOLE SURFACE ANIMATED WITH lGURES ALMOST WHOLLY FREED FROM THE BLOCK )TS NARRATIVE DENSITY REWARDS CLOSE ATTENTION THE STORY OF THE 0ASSION FROM *UDASS BETRAYAL TO THE SCOURGING OF #HRIST FOR INSTANCE IS CONDENSED INTO
4HE "APTISTERY
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4HE THIRD BUILDING OF THE -IRACOLI ENSEMBLE THE CIRCULAR "APTISTERY DAILY -ARCH AMnPM !PRILn3EPT AMnPM /CT AMnPM .OVn&EB AMnPM IS A SLIGHTLY BIZARRE MIX WITH THREE STOREYS OF 2OMANESQUE ARCADES PEAKING IN A CREST OF 'OTHIC PINNACLES AND A DOME SHAPED LIKE THE STALK END OF A LEMON )T WAS BEGUN IN THE MID TWELFTH CENTURY BY A CERTAIN $EOTISALVI h'OD SAVE YOUv WHO LEFT HIS NAME ON THE COLUMN TO THE LEFT OF THE DOOR ,ACK OF MONEY n CAUSED MAINLY BY 'ENOAS INCURSIONS INTO THE 0ISAN TRADE NETWORK n PREVENTED ITS COMPLETION IN THE STYLE IN WHICH IT HAD BEEN STARTED )N THE SECOND HALF OF THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY THE 'OTHIC TOP STOREYS AND ATTENDANT mOURISHES WERE APPLIED BY .ICOLA AND 'IOVANNI 0ISANO WHO ROUNDED OFF THE JOB WITH A GLORIOUS GALLERY OF STATUES n THE ORIGINALS OF WHICH ARE NOW DISPLAYED IN THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO SEE P 4HIS IS THE LARGEST BAPTISTERY IN )TALY AND THE PLAINNESS OF THE VAST INTERIOR IS IMMEDIATELY STRIKING WITH ITS UNADORNED ARCADES AND BARE DOME 4HE ACOUSTICS ARE ASTONISHING TOO AS DEMONSTRATED AT INTERVALS BY THE CUSTODIAN !T THE CENTRE CONTINUING THE EXOTIC STRAIN OF 0ISAN 2OMANESQUE IS A MOSAIC INLAID FONT BY 'UIDO DA #OMO RAISED ON STONE STEPS FOR EASE OF IMMERSION /VERLOOKING IT IS .ICOLA 0ISANOS SPLENDID PULPIT SCULPTED IN HALF A CENTURY BEFORE HIS SONS WORK IN THE CATHEDRAL 4HIS WAS THE SCULPTORS lRST MAJOR COMMISSION AND MANIFESTS A CLASSICAL SPIRIT IN PART ATTRIBUTABLE TO THE INmUENCE OF THE COURT OF %MPEROR &REDERICK )) WHOSE )TALIAN POWER BASE WAS IN .ICOLAS NATIVE !PULIA 4HUS THE SEATED 6IRGIN IN THE !DORATION OF THE -AGI IS ALMOST A LITERAL COPY OF A lGURE OF 0HAEDRA ON A 2OMAN SARCOPHAGUS NOW HOUSED IN THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO WHILE THE NUDE lGURE OF $ANIEL UNDERNEATH THE !DORATION IS EVIDENTLY (ERCULES UNDER AN ALIAS 4HE COMPLEXITY OF THE CUL TURAL MAKE UP OF FOURTEENTH CENTURY 0ISA IS SHOWN BY THE 'OTHIC SHARP ANGLED DRAPERY AND BY THE ARCHITECTURAL ELEMENTS OF THE PULPIT THE DECORATION OF THE ARCHES AND THE FOLIAGE OF THE CAPITALS RECALLING THE STONEWORK OF &RENCH 'OTHIC CATHEDRALS &OR GOOD VIEWS OUT OVER THE #AMPO DEI -IRACOLI CLIMB THE STAIRS TO THE UPPER GALLERY AND FROM THERE UP INSIDE THE DOME
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A SINGLE PANEL 5NFORTUNATELY A COLUMN PREVENTS YOU FROM PROPERLY VIEWING THE MOST TUMULTUOUS PANEL OF ALL THE ,AST *UDGEMENT )N THE RIGHT TRANSEPT ARE THE MUMMIlED BODY OF 0ISAS PATRON SAINT 2ANIERI AND SET INTO THE EAST WALL THE TOMB OF THE (OLY 2OMAN %MPEROR (ENRY 6)) WHO DIED NEAR 3IENA ALLEGEDLY FROM EATING A POISONED WAFER AT -ASS !FTER LAY ING 3IENA TO WASTE THE PRO IMPERIAL 'HIBELLINE 0ISANS BORE THE BODY OF THEIR HERO BACK TO THE #AMPOSANTO WHERE 4INO DA #AMAINO CARVED THE EFlGY IN )N PHOTOGRAPHS THE SCULPTURE LOOKS WONDERFUL BUT ITS NOW MOUNTED SO HIGH ON THE WALL THAT YOU CAN SEE LITTLE MORE THAN ITS DELICATE PROlLE ! lNAL ITEM OF INTEREST IS THE HUGE BRONZE INCENSE LAMP WHICH IS USED TO FUMIGATE THE CENTRAL AISLE n ITS SAID THAT A FORERUNNER PROVIDED THE INSPIRATION FOR 'ALILEOS THEORY OF THE MOVEMENT OF THE PENDULUM
4HE #AMPOSANTO
4HE SCREEN OF SEPULCHRAL WHITE MARBLE RUNNING ALONG THE NORTH EDGE OF THE #AMPO DEI -IRACOLI IS THE PERIMETER WALL OF WHAT HAS BEEN CALLED THE MOST BEAUTIFUL CEMETERY IN THE WORLD THE #AMPOSANTO SAME HOURS AS "APTISTERY !CCORDING TO 0ISAN LEGEND AT THE END OF THE TWELFTH CENTURY THE CITYS ARCH BISHOP BROUGHT BACK FROM THE #RUSADES A CARGO OF SOIL FROM 'OLGOTHA IN ORDER THAT EMINENT 0ISANS MIGHT BE BURIED IN HOLY EARTH 4HE BUILDING ENCLOSING THIS SANCTIlED SITE WAS COMPLETED ALMOST A CENTURY LATER
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4HE #AMPOSANTO TAKES THE FORM OF AN ENORMOUS 'OTHIC CLOISTER EACH OF WHOSE LONG SIDES IS AS BIG AS A CATHEDRAL NAVE ! FEW TOMBS ARE SET INTO THE RECTANGLE OF LAWN AT ITS CENTRE BUT MOST ARE HOUSED UNDER THE SHELTER OF THE ARCADES 3OME OF THE MEMORIALS SUCH AS THE %GYPTIAN EXAMPLES ARE INSTALLED HERE AS MUSEUM PIECES BUT MOST ARE FOR PEOPLE WHO WERE ACTUALLY BURIED IN THE #AMPOSANTO 4OGETHER THEY CONSTITUTE A VIRTUAL ENCYCLOPEDIA OF THE WAYS IN WHICH DEATH HAS BEEN ACCOMMODATED FROM THE TERSE CLASSICAL STYLE n RECORDING THE OCCUPANTS NAME STATUS AND NOTHING ELSE n TO THE OPPOSITE EXTREME WHERE THE FOCUS OF INTEREST IS NOT ON THE DECEASED BUT ON THOSE LEFT BEHIND AS IN THE ROMANTIC TOMB SURMOUNTED BY A WOMAN IDENTIlED AS h4HE )NCONSOLABLEv (OWEVER WHEN 2USKIN DESCRIBED THE #AMPOSANTO AS ONE OF THE THREE MOST PRECIOUS BUILDINGS IN )TALY ALONG WITH THE 3ISTINE #HAPEL AND THE 3CUOLA DI 3AN 2OCCO IN 6ENICE IT WAS NOT ITS TOMBS BUT RATHER ITS FRESCOES THAT HE WAS PRAIS ING 0AINTINGS ONCE COVERED OVER TWO THOUSAND SQUARE METRES OF CLOISTER WALL NOW MOSTLY BARE BRICKWORK )NCENDIARY BOMBS DROPPED BY !LLIED PLANES ON *ULY SET THE ROOlNG ON lRE AND DRENCHED THE FRESCOES IN A RIVER OF MOLTEN LEAD THE MASTERPIECES OF "ENOZZO 'OZZOLI WERE ALL BUT DESTROYED n JUST A FEW PATCHES OF HIS /LD 4ESTAMENT SCENES REMAIN AND RECENT RESTORATION WORK THE lRST STAGE OF A PLANNED RESTORATION OF ALL THE #AMPOSANTO FRESCOES HAS SPARKED A lERCE DISPUTE OVER A CLEANING TECHNIQUE WHICH EXPERTS SAY HAS BLEACHED AND PERMANENTLY RUINED THE PAINTING #LOSE BY IS ANOTHER PICTURE THAT CAME THROUGH THE BOMBING A FASCINATING FOURTEENTH CENTURY 4HEOLOGICAL #OSMOGRAPH SHOWING THE CONCENTRIC SPHERES OF THE UNIVERSE AND THE TRIPARTITE DIVISION OF THE %ARTH INTO %UROPE !SIA AND !FRICA 4HE MOST IMPORTANT SURVIVING FRESCOES ARE THE REMARKABLE FOURTEENTH CENTURY CYCLE BY "UONAMICO "UFFALMACCO OTHERWISE KNOWN AS THE -AESTRO DEL 4RION FO DELLA -ORTE THE h-ASTER OF THE 4RIUMPH OF $EATHv 4HESE HAVE BEEN DETACHED FROM THE WALL AND PUT ON SHOW IN A ROOM OPPOSITE THE ENTRANCE BEYOND A PHOTOGRAPHIC DISPLAY OF THE #AMPOSANTO BEFORE THE BOMBING 0AINTED WITHIN A FEW MONTHS OF THE "LACK $EATH OF n A PESTILENCE WHICH HIT 4USCANY SO BADLY THAT IT WAS KNOWN THROUGHOUT %UROPE AS THE &LORENTINE 0LAGUE n THE 4RIUMPH SHOWS A TRIO OF ARISTOCRATIC HUNTSMEN STOPPED IN THEIR TRACKS BY A TRIO OF COFlNS THE CONTENTS OF WHICH ARE SO PUTRESCENT THAT ONE OF THE RIDERS HAS TO PINCH HIS NOSE /VER TO THE RIGHT SQUADRONS OF ANGELS AND DEMONS BEAR AWAY THE SOULS OF THE DEAD WHOSE lNAL RESTING PLACE IS DETERMINED IN THE TERRIFYING ,AST *UDGEMENT AT THE FAR END OF THE ROOM THERES NO MORE RUTHLESS CATALOGUE OF HORRORS THAN THIS IN 7ESTERN ART 4HE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO
! VAST ARRAY OF STATUARY FROM THE $UOMO AND "APTISTERY PLUS ECCLESIASTICAL lNERY PAINTINGS AND OTHER MISCELLANEOUS PIECES ARE DISPLAYED IN THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO SAME HOURS AS "APTISTERY AT THE SOUTHEAST CORNER OF THE #AMPO 4HE COLLECTION KICKS OFF WITH PIECES DATING FROM THE PERIOD OF THE $UOMOS CONSTRUCTION SHOWING HOW )SLAMIC INmUENCES lLTERED THROUGH THE INTERMEDI ARY OF "YZANTIUM CAME TO BE EXPRESSED IN THE CITYS ART n NOTABLY IN THE MARBLE INLAYS FROM THE $UOMO FACADE ! LARGE BRONZE GRIFFON IS A MORE DIRECT BOR ROWING FROM )SLAM HAVING BEEN THIEVED FROM THE -IDDLE %AST BY A 0ISAN WAR PARTY IN THE ELEVENTH CENTURY 4HE OTHER MAIN CULTURAL INPUT SHOWN HERE IS FROM "URGUNDY SOURCE OF THE STRANGE PAINTED WOODEN #RUCIlX A GIGANTIC lGURE WITH A TINY HEAD AND MANTIS THIN ARMS 3CULPTURES BY THE VARIOUS 0ISANOS ARE THE HIGH POINTS OF THE MUSEUM BUT THE lRST PIECES YOU ENCOUNTER n .ICOLA AND 'IOVANNIS lGURES FROM THE "APTISTERY
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n ARE TOO ERODED AND PITTED TO GIVE MUCH OF AN IDEA OF THEIR POWER 2OOM WHICH IS GIVEN OVER TO WORKS BY 'IOVANNI 0ISANO CONTAINS THE MOST AFFECT ING STATUE IN 0ISA THE -ADONNA DEL #OLLOQUIO SO CALLED BECAUSE OF THE INTENSITY OF THE GAZES EXCHANGED BY THE -ADONNA AND #HILD 'IOVANNIS GREAT CONTEM PORARY 4INO DA #AMAINO MONOPOLIZES THE NEXT ROOM WHERE FRAGMENTS FROM THE TOMB OF %MPEROR (ENRY 6)) ARE ASSEMBLED THE MAGNIlCENT lGURES OF THE EMPEROR AND HIS COUNSELLORS MAY HAVE COME FROM THE TOMB AS WELL .INO 0ISANO n NO RELATION TO .ICOLA AND 'IOVANNI n IS THE SUBJECT OF ROOM WHERE HIS CREAMY MARBLE MONUMENTS TO ARCHBISHOPS 'IOVANNI 3CHERLATTI AND &RANCESCO -ORICOTTI SHOW THE INCREASING SUAVITY OF 0ISAN SCULPTURE IN THE LATE FOURTEENTH CENTURY 'IOVANNI 0ISANO RETURNS IN THE TREASURY HIS IVORY -ADONNA AND #HILD SHOWING A REMARKABLE INGENUITY IN THE WAY IT EXPLOITS THE NATURAL CURVE OF THE TUSK FROM WHICH ITS CARVED 4HE OTHER PRICELESS OBJECT HERE IS THE 0ISAN #ROSS WHICH WAS CARRIED BY THE 0ISAN CONTINGENT ON THE &IRST #RUSADE 5PSTAIRS BIG AND WITLESS ALTARPIECE PAINTINGS TAKE UP A LOT OF ROOM AS DO CASES OF ECCLESIASTICAL CLOTHING AND LAVISH EXAMPLES OF INTARSIA THE ART OF INLAID WOOD MUCH PRACTISED HERE IN THE lFTEENTH AND SIXTEENTH CENTURIES 4HE STRANGEST OBJECTS ON VIEW ARE THE TWO ANCIENT PARCHMENT ROLLS KNOWN AS %XULTETS FROM THE OPENING WORD OF THE CHANT ON THE EVE OF (OLY 3ATURDAY )T WAS DURING THIS SERVICE THAT THE CANTOR WOULD UNFURL THESE SCROLLS FROM THE PULPIT SO THAT THE CONGREGATION COULD FOLLOW HIS WORDS THROUGH THE PICTURES PAINTED ON THEM ! lNE COLLECTION OF ENGRAVINGS BY #ARLO ,ASINIO COMES NEAR THE END OF THE MUSEUM IT WAS MAINLY THANKS TO HIS EFFORTS THAT THE #AMPOSANTO WAS RESCUED FROM RUIN AT THE BEGINNING OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY AND HIS FASTIDIOUS RECORD OF THE CLOISTER FRESCOES IS ONE OF THE MOST POIGNANT ITEMS ON SHOW 4HE MUSEUM HAS A LARGE COLLECTION OF 2OMAN AND %TRUSCAN PIECES MANY OF WHICH WERE SLOTTED INTO ODD CORNERS OF 0ISAS CHURCHES TO BRIGHTEN THEM UP THE MOST FAMOUS IMAGE IS A THIN LIPPED BUST OF *ULIUS #AESAR FEATURED ON A DOZEN EDI TIONS OF HIS WRITINGS 4HE -USEO DELLE 3INOPIE AND THE CITY WALLS
/N THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE #AMPO THE ONLY GAP IN THE SOUVENIR STALLS IS THE ENTRANCE TO THE -USEO DELLE 3INOPIE SAME HOURS AS "APTISTERY !FTER THE CATASTROPHIC DAMAGE WREAKED ON THE #AMPOSANTO BY THE BOMBERS THE BUILD INGS RESTORERS REMOVED ITS SINOPIE MONOCHROME SKETCHES FOR THE FRESCOES 4HESE GREAT PLATES OF PLASTER ARE NOW HUNG FROM THE WALLS OF THIS HIGH TECH MUSEUM WHERE GANTRIES AND GALLERIES GIVE YOU THE CHANCE TO INSPECT THE PAINTERS PRE LIMINARY IDEAS AT CLOSE RANGE BUT ITS A RATHER SCHOLASTIC ENTERPRISE 9OU MAY GET MORE REWARD FROM WALKING ON THE CITY WALLS ACCESS IS AT THE NORTHWEST CORNER OF THE LAWNS *UNEn!UG AMnPM nPM + WHERE YOU CAN CLIMB UP INSIDE THE MEDIEVAL 4ORRE DI 3ANTA -ARIA TO LOOK DOWN INTO THE #AMPOSANTO
4HE REST OF THE CITY !WAY FROM THE #AMPO DEI -IRACOLI 0ISA TAKES ON A VERY DIFFERENT CHARAC TER &EW TOURISTS PENETRATE FAR INTO ITS SQUARES AND ARCADED STREETS WITH THEIR 2OMANESQUE CHURCHES AND n ESPECIALLY ALONG THE BANKS OF THE !RNO n RANKS OF lNE PALAZZI 7ITH THE LARGE STUDENT POPULATION IT CAN BE QUITE A LIVELY PLACE PAR TICULARLY DURING THE SUMMER FESTIVALS AND THE MONTHLY MARKET WHEN THE MAIN STREETS ON EACH SIDE OF THE RIVER BECOME ONE CONTINUOUS BAZAAR
0IAZZA DEI #AVALIERI AND THE EASTERN DISTRICTS
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4HE 0IAZZA DEI #AVALIERI IS AN OBVIOUS lRST STOP FROM THE #AMPO A LARGE SQUARE THAT OPENS UNEXPECTEDLY FROM THE NARROW BACKSTREETS 0ERHAPS THE SITE OF THE 2OMAN FORUM IT WAS THE CENTRAL CIVIC SQUARE OF MEDIEVAL 0ISA BEFORE BEING REMODELLED BY 6ASARI AS THE HEADQUARTERS OF THE +NIGHTS OF 3T 3TEPHEN 4HIS ORDER WAS ESTABLISHED BY #OSIMO ) OSTENSIBLY FOR CRUSADING THOUGH IN REALITY THEY AMOUNTED TO NOTHING MORE THAN A GANG OF LICENSED PIRATES GIVEN STATE SANCTION TO PLUNDER 4URKISH SHIPPING 4HEIR PALACE THE CURVING 0ALAZZO DEI #AVALIERI NOW A SCHOOL COVERED IN SGRAFlTI AND TOPPED WITH BUSTS OF THE -EDICI FACES A STATUE OF #OSIMO AND ADJOINS THE ORDERS CHURCH OF 3ANTO 3TEFANO SUMMER DAILY AMnPM WINTER -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM + DESIGNED BY 6ASARI AND HOUSING BANNERS CAPTURED FROM THE 4URKS /N THE OTHER SIDE OF THE SQUARE IS THE 2ENAISSANCE ADAPTED 0ALAZZO DELL/ROLOGIO WITH ITS ARCHWAY AND CLOCK TOWER 4HIS WAS A MEDIEVAL PALACE IN WHOSE TOWER THE MILITARY LEADER 5GOLINO DELLA 'HERARDESCA WAS STARVED TO DEATH IN ALONG WITH HIS SONS AND GRANDSONS AS PUNISHMENT FOR HIS ALLEGED DUPLICITY WITH THE 'ENOESE ENEMY n AN EPISODE DESCRIBED IN $ANTES )NFERNO AND 3HELLEYS 4OWER OF &AMINE .ORTHEAST FROM HERE ACROSS THE WIDE 0IAZZA DEI -ARTIRI DELLA ,IBERTÌ STANDS THE $OMINICAN CHURCH OF 3ANTA #ATERINA WHOSE 2OMANESQUE LOWER FACADE DATES FROM THE YEAR OF ITS FOUNDATION )NSIDE THERES AN !NNUNCIATION AND A TOMB BY .ICOLA 0ISANO AND A FOURTEENTH CENTURY PAINTING OF THE 4RIUMPH OF 4HOMAS !QUINAS THE IDEOLOGICAL lGUREHEAD OF THE $OMINICANS .EARBY IN FRONT OF THE 0ORTA ,UCCA n THE MAIN NORTHERN GATE OF MEDIEVAL 0ISA n YOU CAN SEE THE UNIMPRESSIVE REMNANTS OF THE CITYS 2OMAN BATHS WHILE TUCKED INTO THE NORTHEAST CORNER OF THE CITY WALLS IS THE CHURCH OF 3AN :ENO PARTS OF WHICH GO BACK TO THE lFTH CENTURY &ROM 6IA 3AN :ENO 6IA "UONARROTI RUNS SOUTH TO THE PLAIN 'OTHIC 3AN &RANCESCO WHOSE WELL PRESERVED FRESCOES INCLUDE WORK BY 4ADDEO 'ADDI AND .ICCOLÛ DI 0IETRO 'ERINI #OUNT 5GOLINO AND HIS OFFSPRING ARE BURIED IN THE SECOND CHAPEL ON THE RIGHT )F YOU CONTINUE DOWN 6IA DI 3IMONE FROM THE BACK OF THE CHURCH YOULL COME OUT AT THE -USEO .AZIONALE DI 3AN -ATTEO "ORGO 3TRETTO AND THE -USEO .AZIONALE DI 3AN -ATTEO
(EADING FROM 0IAZZA DEI #AVALIERI TOWARDS THE !RNO 6IA $INI SWINGS INTO THE ARCADED "ORGO 3TRETTO 2ECENTLY PEDESTRIANIZED TO CREATE A TRAFlC FREE ROUTE THAT EXTENDS ACROSS THE RIVER AND DOWN #ORSO )TALIA THIS IS 0ISAS SMARTEST STREET AND ITS WINDOWS FULL OF ,AURA "IAGIOTTI JEWELLERY $OLCE E 'ABBANA SHADES AND OTHER DESIRABLES SEEM SLIGHTLY OUT OF TUNE WITH THE CITYS UNSHOWY STYLE -ORE TYPICALLY 0ISAN IS THE MARKET JUST OFF 6IA $INI -ONn&RI MORNINGS 3AT ALL DAY ITS FRUIT VEGETABLE lSH MEAT AND CLOTHING STALLS SPILLING ONTO THE LANES AROUND 0IAZZA 6ETTOVAGLIE 0AST THE 2OMANESQUE 'OTHIC FACADE OF 3AN -ICHELE n BUILT ON THE SITE OF THE 2OMAN TEMPLE TO -ARS n THE "ORGO MEETS THE RIVER AT THE TRAFlC KNOTTED 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI AND 0ONTE DI -EZZO THE CITYS CENTRAL BRIDGE ! LEFT TURN ALONG ,UNGARNO -EDICEO TAKES YOU PAST THE 0ALAZZO 4OSCANELLI NOW THE CITY ARCHIVES WHICH WAS RENTED BY "YRON IN n AFTER HIS EXPULSION FROM 2AVENNA FOR SEDITIOUS ACTIVITIES 4HE POETS LUNATIC REPUTATION ALREADY WELL ESTABLISHED THANKS TO HIS MENAGERIE OF HORSES CATS AND DOGS WAS GIVEN A FURTHER BOOST WHEN HE GOT INTO A SCRAP WITH A BUNCH OF 0ISAN SOLDIERS A CONTRETEMPS THAT BROUGHT HIS BROTHERS IN EXILE n 3HELLEY ,EIGH (UNT AND 7ALTER 3AVAGE ,AN DOR n OUT ONTO THE STREETS 4HIS DISPLAY OF HOT BLOODED SOLIDARITY PROMPTED THE
7EST OF 0ONTE DI -EZZO
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4HE FACULTY BUILDINGS OF 0ISAS UNIVERSITY n STILL ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT IN )TALY n ARE SCATTERED ALL OVER THE CITY BUT THE MAIN CONCENTRATION IS TO THE WEST OF THE 0ONTE DI -EZZO AROUND LIVELY 0IAZZA $ANTE 4HE GENERAL TONE OF THE STREETS n ESPECIALLY THE OSTERIE AND BARS n IS THE ATTRACTION OF THIS QUARTER THOUGH IT DOES HAVE A COUPLE OF SIGHTS WORTH SINGLING OUT )MMEDIATELY NORTH OF 0IAZZA $ANTE THE BARE STONE NAVE OF THE ELEVENTH CEN TURY 3AN &REDIANO PRESERVES SOME CAPITALS FROM THAT PERIOD 7EST OF HERE OFF THE MAIN 6IA 3ANTA -ARIA LIES THE UNIVERSITYS /RTO "OTANICO -ONn3AT AMnPM FREE FOUNDED IN THIS IS THE OLDEST BOTANICAL GARDEN IN THE WORLD !T THE SOUTHERN END OF 6IA 3ANTA -ARIA RISES 0ISAS SECOND LEANING TOWER THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY CAMPANILE OF 3AN .ICOLA #YLINDRICAL AT ITS BASE MUTATING INTO AN OCTAGON THEN A HEXAGON IT CONTAINS A MAJESTIC SPIRAL STAIRCASE THAT WAS "RAMANTES INSPIRATION FOR HIS GRAND "ELVEDERE STAIRCASE IN THE 6ATICAN )NSIDE THE CHURCH THE #RUCIlX IN THE lRST CHAPEL ON THE LEFT IS ATTRIBUTED TO 'IOVANNI 0ISANO WHILE .INO 0ISANO IS CREDITED WITH THE WOODEN -ADONNA AND #HILD IN THE FOURTH CHAPEL ON THIS SIDE )N THE CHAPELS ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE NAVE THERES A -ADONNA BY &RANCESCO 4RAINI AND A PAINTING SHOWING 0ISA AROUND BEING PROTECTED FROM THE PLAGUE BY 3T .ICHOLAS OF 4OLENTINO !LONGSIDE 3AN .ICOLA FRONTING THE !RNO AT ,UNGARNO 0ACINOTTI IS THE -USEO .AZIONALE DI 0ALAZZO 2EALE -ONn3AT AMnPM + DISPLAYING ARTEFACTS THAT ONCE BELONGED TO THE -EDICI ,ORRAINE AND 3AVOY RULERS OF THE CITY WHO SUCCESSIVELY OCCUPIED THE HOUSE ,AVISH SIXTEENTH CENTURY &LEMISH TAPESTRIES SHARE SPACE WITH ANTIQUE WEAPONRY IVORY MINIATURES PORCELAIN AND A LARGELY UNDISTINGUISHED PICTURE COLLECTION FEATURING A COPY OF "RONZINOS FAMOUS PORTRAIT OF #OSIMO )S WIFE %LEANORA DI 4OLEDO *UST AS MEMORABLE IS THE LOVELY RIVER VIEW FROM THE BALCONY &URTHER ALONG THE RIVER ON THE ,UNGARNO 3IMONELLI LIES THE !RSENALE -EDI CEO BUILT BY #OSIMO ) *UST WEST OF THE ARSENAL RISES THE 4ORRE 'UELFA DELLA #ITTADELLA 6ECCHIA OR &ORTEZZA 6ECCHIA *AN &EB .OV $EC 3AT 3UN nPM PLUS AMnPM ON ND 3UN OF MONTH REST OF YEAR &RIn3UN nPM + 4HIS ANCIENT FORTRESS ORIGINALLY BUILT IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY ONCE STOOD GUARD OVER 0ISAS HARBOUR BUT NOW PUNCTUATES AN OTHERWISE LITTLE EXPLORED DIS TRICT THE VIEW FROM THE TOWER IS SPECTACULAR
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WRITER 'UERRAZZI TO MUSE THAT HE AT LAST UNDERSTOOD hWHY THE %NGLISH ARE A GREAT PEOPLE AND THE )TALIANS A CLUMP OF RAGS IN THE SHOP OF A SECOND HAND DEALERv ! COUPLE OF DOORS FARTHER ALONG THE LUNGARNO IS THE -USEO .AZIONALE DI 3AN -ATTEO 4UESn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM + WHERE MOST OF THE MAJOR WORKS OF ART FROM 0ISAS CHURCHES ARE NOW GATHERED &OURTEENTH CENTURY RELIGIOUS PAINTINGS MAKE UP THE MEAT OF THE COLLECTION WITH A 3IMONE -ARTINI POLYPTYCH AND WORK BY !NTONIO 6ENEZIANO OUTSTANDING IN THE EARLY SECTIONS ,ATER ON THERES A STASH OF -IDDLE %ASTERN CERAMICS PILFERED BY 0ISAN ADVENTUR ERS A PANEL OF 3T 0AUL BY -ASACCIO 'OZZOLIS STRANGELY FESTIVE #RUCIlXION AND $ONATELLOS RELIQUARY BUST OF THE INTROSPECTIVE 3T 2OSSORE !LSO HOUSED IN THE MUSEUM ARE THE ANTIQUE ARMOUR AND WOODEN SHIELDS USED IN THE ANNUAL 'IOCO DEL 0ONTE PAGEANT SEE P
3OUTH OF THE RIVER
4HE MORE DOWN AT HEEL DISTRICTS SOUTH OF THE !RNO ARE POPULARLY KNOWN AS THE MEZZOGIORNO THE NAME MORE WIDELY USED IN )TALY TO REFER TO THE UNDER DEVELOPED SOUTH OF THE COUNTRY /N THE SECOND 3UNDAY AND THE PRECEDING 3ATURDAY OF EACH MONTH BOTH BANKS ARE LINKED BY A BIG STREET MARKET WITH
'IOCO DEL 0ONTE
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0ISAS BIG TRADITIONAL EVENT IS THE 'IOCO DEL 0ONTE HELD ON THE LAST 3UNDAY OF *UNE WHEN TWELVE TEAMS FROM THE NORTH AND SOUTH BANKS OF THE CITY STAGE A SERIES OF hPUSH OF WARv BATTLES SHOVING A SEVEN TONNE CARRIAGE OVER THE 0ONTE DI -EZZO 4HE EVENT HAS TAKEN PLACE SINCE -EDICI TIMES AND CONTINUES IN 2ENAISSANCE COSTUME /THER CELEBRATIONS n CONCERTS REGATTAS ART EVENTS n ARE HELD AROUND THE SAME TIME AND THE CITY HAS A FESTIVE FEEL FOR MOST OF *UNE WITH BANNERS AND PAVEMENT DRAWINGS BRIGHTENING THE STREETS -OST SPECTACULAR OF THE ANCILLARY SHOWS IS THE ,UMINARA DI 3AN 2ANIERI WHEN BUILDINGS ALONG BOTH RIVER BANKS ARE LIT BY FAIRY LIGHTS IN HONOUR OF 0ISAS PATRON SAINT
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HIPPIE EARRINGS CANDLES AND OTHER CRAFT STUFF lLLING THE LOWER REACHES OF "ORGO 3TRETTO AND FURNITURE AND GENERAL BRIC A BRAC AROUND THE SOUTH BANK ,OGGE DI "ANCHI &ORMERLY THE CITYS SILK AND WOOL MARKET THIS VAST AND USUALLY DESERTED LOGGIA STANDS AT THE TOP OF THE MAIN SHOPPING STREET OF THE MEZZOGIORNO THE PEDESTRIANIZED #ORSO )TALIA WHICH STARTS OFF CLASSY AND GETS PROGRESSIVELY SHAB BIER AS IT NEARS THE TRAIN STATION %AST ALONG THE ,UNGARNO 'ALILEI THE ONLY REAL SIGHT IS THE OCTAGONAL 3AN 3EPOLCRO BUILT FOR THE +NIGHTS 4EMPLAR BY $IOTISALVI lRST ARCHITECT OF THE "APTISTERY ! SHORT WAY PAST HERE IS THE RUINED 0ALAZZO 3COTTI 3HELLEYS HOME DURING THE PERIOD WHEN "YRON WAS IN RESIDENCE ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE RIVER !LONG THE LUNGARNI TO THE WEST OF THE 0ONTE DI -EZZO THE RATHER MONOTONOUS LINE OF PALAZZI n MIRRORING THOSE ON THE FACING BANK n IS SUDDENLY ENLIVENED BY THE SPRY TURRETED ORATORY OF 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA 3PINA *AN &EB .OV $EC 4UESn3UN AMnPM EXCEPT ND 3UN OF MONTH AMnPM nPM -ARCHn/CT 4UESn&RI AMnPM nPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM + 2EBUILT IN BY A MERCHANT WHO HAD ACQUIRED ONE OF THE THORNS SPINE OF #HRISTS CROWN ITS THE lNEST mOURISH OF 0ISAN 'OTHIC /RIGINALLY BUILT CLOSER TO THE RIVER IT WAS MOVED HERE FOR FEAR OF mOODS IN 4HE TINY SIN GLE NAVED INTERIOR HAS MULLIONED WINDOWS ON THE RIVER SIDE BUT HAS LOST MOST OF ITS FURNISHINGS &ARTHER WEST AGAIN 3AN 0AOLO A 2IPA D!RNO PROBABLY OCCUPIES THE SITE OF 0ISAS VERY lRST CATHEDRAL 4HE ARCADED FACADE WAS BUILT IN IMITATION OF THE PRESENT CATHEDRAL IN THE TWELFTH CENTURY THE INTERIOR BADLY DAMAGED IN 7ORLD 7AR )) HAS A HANDSOME 2OMAN SARCOPHAGUS AND A lNELY CARVED CAPITAL SECOND ON LEFT "EHIND THE CHURCH IS THE OCTAGONAL #APPELLA DI 3ANT!GATA ALSO BUILT IN THE TWELFTH CENTURY 3AN -ICHELE DEI 3CALZI
3OME KM EAST OF THE CENTRE SECRETED IN A RESIDENTIAL AREA STANDS 0ISAS THIRD LEANING TOWER THE CAMPANILE OF 3AN -ICHELE DEI 3CALZI n YOU GET TO IT BY WALKING ALONG THE RIVERBANK UPSTREAM FROM 0ONTE DI -EZZO %VERYTHING IN THIS BUILDING IS SEVERELY ASKEW THE COLUMNS IN THE NAVE LURCH THIS WAY AND THAT THE WINDOWS IN THE APSE ARE ALL OVER THE PLACE AND THE WALLS SET UP A DRUNKEN COUNTERPOINT TO THE TILT OF THE TOWER
%ATING AND DRINKING
0ISAS PROXIMITY TO THE COAST MEANS THAT SEAFOOD IS THE STAPLE OF ITS RESTAURANT MENUS NOTABLY BACCALÌ ALLA 0ISANA DRIED COD 4HOSE IN THE ENVIRONS OF THE ,EAN ING 4OWER ARE GENERALLY NOT GOOD VALUE THOUGH ANY OF THE NUMEROUS PIZZERIE DOWN 6IA 3ANTA -ARIA WILL DO FOR A QUICK REFUEL (EAD A FEW BLOCKS SOUTH TO
THE AREAS AROUND 0IAZZA DEI #AVALIERI AND 0IAZZA $ANTE AND YOULL lND PREDOMI NANTLY LOCAL PLACES 4HE UNIVERSITY IS AS STRONG AN INmUENCE AS THE TOURIST TRADE SUPPORTING PLACES THAT CATER FOR A REGULAR CLIENTELE OF IMPECUNIOUS STUDENTS AT ONE END OF THE RANGE AND FOR THEIR TEACHERS AT THE OTHER 4HERES THE USUAL SCAT TERING OF CITY CENTRE BARS BUT AT NIGHT 0ISA CAN BE AN EERILY QUIET PLACE AS THE MAJORITY OF ITS STUDENTS ARE 0ISAN NATIVES WHO STILL LIVE AT HOME )N TERM TIME THOUGH THERES USUALLY A FAIR NUMBER OF ONE OFF EVENTS GOING ON n 0IAZZA $ANTE IS THE PLACE TO LOOK FOR POSTERS
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,A -ESCITA 6IA $OMENICO #AVALCA 4HIS WINE BARRESTAURANT HAS ESTABLISHED A GOOD REPUTATION WITH ITS EVER CHANG ING 4USCAN MENU AND EXCELLENT CELLAR #LOSED -ON WEEKS IN !UG /MBONO 0IAZZA 3ANT/MBONO 4HIS CITY CENTRE TRATTORIA SERVES TERRIlC AUTHENTIC 0ISAN HOME COOKING FEATURING DISHES SUCH AS BRACHETTE ALLA RENAIAOLA n PASTA IN A PURÏE OF GREENS AND SMOKED lSH #LOSED 3UN WEEKS IN !UG /STERIA DEI #AVALIERI 6IA 3AN &REDIANO /UTSTANDING QUALITY WITH %NGLISH SPEAKING STAFF AND A CALM FRESH ATMOS PHERE 4HE lSH IS EXQUISITE 4USCAN MEAT AND GAME DISHES ARE EXPERTLY PREPARED AND THEIR VEGETARIAN OPTIONS ARE EXCELLENT %AT Ì LA CARTE OR CHOOSE FROM SET MENUS STARTING AROUND + #LOSED 3AT LUNCH 3UN /STERIA DEI -ILLE 6IA DEI -ILLE 3MART AND VERY POPULAR OSTERIA WITH EXCELLENT FRESH PASTA PRIMI AND MEAT OR lSH SECONDI n THE PLACE TO COME FOR A TAGLIATA lNELY SLICED STEAK SERVED WITH ROCKET AND PARMESAN #LOSED &RI 3PAGHETTERIA ALLE "ANDIERINE 6IA -ERCANTI 0OPULAR PLACE FOR A BOWL OF PASTA WITH LARGE CHOICE OF ORIGINAL SAUCES #LOSED 3UN -ON 4AVERNA +OSTAS 6IA DEL "ORGHETTO %NTRENCHED LOCAL FAVOURITE OFFERING A MIX OF 'REEK AND -EDITERRANEAN COOKING AS WELL AS 0ISAN SEAFOOD #LOSED 3UN LUNCH -ON !UG
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!L 2ISTORO DEI 6ECCHI -ACELLI 6IA 6OLTURNO !CCLAIMED AS 0ISAS BEST RESTAURANT WITH A WIDE RANGE OF SOPHISTICATED INNOVATIVE TAKES ON 4USCANYS GOURMET TRADITIONS n CHOOSE FROM MEAT OR lSH SET MENUS FOR UPWARDS OF + #LOSED 3UN LUNCH 7ED "RUNO 6IA , "IANCHI 3IMPLE 0ISAN DISHES SUCH AS THE LOCAL BACCALÌ HAVE KEPT THIS PLACE WELL REGARDED FOR YEARS #LOSED -ON EVE 4UES #ASSIO 0IAZZA #AVALLOTTI *UST OFF 6IA 3ANTA -ARIA THIS EXCELLENT TAVOLA CALDA AND PIZZERIA IS THE PLACE TO COME FOR A MIDDAY PIT STOP #LOSED 3AT 3UN $A #UCCIOLO 6ICOLO 2OSSELMINI $A #UCCIOLO IS ALWAYS RELIABLE OFFERING UNFUSSY DELICIOUS TRADITIONAL MEALS WITH AN EMPHASIS ON ORGANICALLY PRODUCED FOOD FROM AROUND + #LOSED 3UN EVE -ON )L #AMPANO 6IA $OMENICO #AVALCA (OMEMADE PASTA AND LOCAL SEAFOOD ARE THE BIG THINGS AT THIS lRST RATE TRATTORIA n SIT ON THE NARROW TERRACE AND YOULL BE ASSAILED BY THE AROMAS OF THE NEARBY lSHMONGERS %XTREME LY GOOD SELECTION OF WINES TOO #LOSED 7ED )L 6ECCHIO $ADO ,UNGARNO 0ACINOTTI .EXT TO THE 2OYAL 6ICTORIA (OTEL ON THE WATERFRONT CLASSY PIZZAS EXCELLENT lSH AND A LIVELY ATMOSPHERE #LOSED ALL 7ED 4HURS LUNCH ,A #ERERIA 6IA 0IETRO 'ORI 0OPU LAR UNPRETENTIOUS RESTAURANT TUCKED AWAY NORTH OF 6IA "ENEDETTO #ROCE %XCELLENT SEAFOOD AND PASTA DISHES SUPERB PIZZAS THE BEST IN THE CITY SOME RECKON AND A PLEASANT GARDEN #LOSED 4UES
!ROUND 0ISA 4HE MOST OBVIOUS DESTINATIONS MOVING ON FROM 0ISA ARE ,UCCA HALF AN HOUR BY TRAIN OR BUS AND &LORENCE AN HOUR BY TRAIN %AST ALONG THE !RNO THE MOST INTER ESTING DIVERSIONS ARE BEYOND 3AN -INIATO SEE P ON THE 0ISAN SIDE THE ONLY COMPELLING DETOUR IS TO THE #ERTOSA DI 0ISA A MARVELLOUS "AROQUE CHARTERHOUSE WHICH YOU COULD TAKE IN ON A BRIEF LOOP FROM THE MAIN ROAD (EADING SOUTH FOR 3IENA TAKE A TRAIN FOR &LORENCE AND CHANGE AT %MPOLI 7ITH YOUR OWN TRANSPORT THOUGH YOU COULD ROAM THROUGH THE 0ISAN HILLS TO
6OLTERRA SEE P VIA #ASCIANA 4ERME OR FOLLOW THE COAST TURNING INLAND AT #ÏCINA 7EST OF 0ISA -ARINA DI 0ISA AND 4IRRENIA ARE THE CITYS LOCAL RESORTS .EITHER IS VERY INSPIRING BUT THE AREA JUST INLAND HAS THE 0ARCO 2EGIONALE DI 3AN 2OSSORE AND THE ANCIENT CHURCH OF 3AN 0IERO A 'RADO
4HE #ERTOSA DI 0ISA 0)3 ! 4(% # % .42!, # /!3 4 !.$ % , " !
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/F THE THIRTY #ARTHUSIAN MONASTERIES LEFT INTACT IN )TALY NONE MAKES A MORE DIVERTING EXCURSION THAN THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY #ERTOSA DI 0ISA SET AT THE FOOT OF THE FORESTED -ONTE 0ISANO NEAR THE VILLAGE OF #!,#) KM EAST OF 0ISA ! REGULAR #04 BUS SERVICE RUNS TO THE VILLAGE FROM 0ISAS 0IAZZA 3AN !NTONIO IF YOURE DRIVING JUST GET TO THE AMAZING -EDICI AQUEDUCT n IMMEDIATELY VISIBLE ON THE EASTERN OUTSKIRTS OF THE CITY n AND FOLLOW IT ALL THE WAY 4HE MONASTERYS GUIDED TOUR HOURLY 4UESn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnNOON + GIVES A REMARK ABLE SENSE OF HOW THE BUILDING RELATED TO THE LIVES OF THIS ORDER 4HE SIZE OF THE #ERTOSA IS STARTLING &ROM THE FRESCOED CENTRAL CHURCH WHERE A FREESTANDING MARBLE ANGEL DOES SERVICE AS A LECTERN THE TOUR PASSES THROUGH ELEVEN OTHER CHAPELS IN WHICH 3UNDAY -ASS WAS APPARENTLY CONDUCTED SIMULTANEOUSLY ,OOKING AS FRESH AS THE DAY THEY WERE DECORATED THEY HAVE NOT BEEN RESTORED THESE ARE STRANGELY SYBARITIC INTERIORS n ALL POWDER BLUE BABY PINK PALE VIOLET AND PALLID GREEN WITH STUCCO DETAILS AND TROMPE LOEIL PILLARS AND BALUSTRADES TO PERK THINGS UP &LOORS ARE COVERED WITH TILES THAT ARE ONLY PAINT DEEP AND THERES A RECTANGULAR CHAPEL TRICKED OUT TO LOOK LIKE AN OVAL ROOM WITH A DOME 4HIS BALLROOM DECOR CONTRASTS WITH THE MORE CONVENTIONAL MONASTICISM OF THE CLOISTER AND ITS CELLS %ACH OF THE MONKS HAD A SUITE OF THREE SPARSE ROOMS n A BEDROOM A STUDY AND A WORKROOM !TTACHED TO EVERY SUITE IS A SELF CON TAINED GARDEN WALLED SO THAT THE MONKS COULD MAINTAIN THEIR SOUL REDEEMING ISOLATION 4HEIR MEALS WERE SERVED THROUGH HATCHES POSITIONED TO MINIMIZE THE POSSIBILITY OF COMING FACE TO FACE n EXCEPT ON 3UNDAYS WHEN CONVERSATION WAS PERMITTED AND ALL THE MONKS ATE TOGETHER &ROM THE CLOISTER THE TOUR PROGRESSES
5 4HE #ERTOSA DI 0ISA
-ONTE 3ERRA
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)F YOURE DRIVING YOU COULD MAKE A LOOP DOWN TO THE !RNO FROM THE #ERTOSA BY FOLLOWING THE SCENIC MOUNTAIN PASS OVER -ONTE 3ERRA n WHERE THE 2OSA DEI 6ENTI BAR RESTAURANT PROVIDES AN OPPORTUNITY FOR A QUICK BITE "EYOND THE SUMMIT THE ROAD MEANDERS DOWN TO THE VILLAGE OF "54) ITS 'OTHIC WINDOWED CASTLE LOOKING DOWN OVER THE !RNO VALLEY 4HE DESCENT HAS mATTENED OUT BY THE TIME YOU GET TO 6)#/0)3!./ WWWVICONETIT "UILT ON A PLUMP LITTLE HUMMOCK THE CORE OF THE VILLAGE RETAINS FOUR TOWERS OF ITS FORTIlCATIONS TWO OF WHICH WERE BUILT OR REBUILT BY "RUNELLESCHI AFTER THE &LORENTINES HAD CONQUERED 0ISA GUIDED TOURS !PRILn*ULY 3EPTn.OV 3AT nPM 3UN AMnPM nPM )N THE LOWER PART OF THE VILLAGE IS A HANDSOME 2OMANESQUE CHURCH FRONTED BY A GRASSY PIAZZA AND BACKED BY THE -ONTE 0ISANO FOOTHILLS
0)3 ! 4(% # % .42!, # /!3 4 !.$ % , " ! !ROUND 0ISA
TO THE REFECTORY WHERE FRESCOES OF SEMINAL MOMENTS IN THE HISTORY OF THE MONASTERY ARE INTERSPERSED WITH IMAGES OF THE MONTHS AND THEIR ASSOCIATED CROPS AS A REMINDER OF THE ORDERS AGRICULTURAL SELF SUFlCIENCY .EARBY ARE THE LUXURI OUSLY APPOINTED GUEST ROOMS WHERE HIGH BORN 6)0S n VARIOUS -EDICI AMONG THEM n WOULD STAY FOR A BOUT OF NOT TOO RIGOROUS SCOURGING OF THE SPIRIT 4HEIR PRIVATE CLOISTER FEATURES YET MORE TROMPE LOEIL ITS WINDOWS hOPENINGv ONTO THE DINING ROOM AND MONKS CLOISTER 4HE VISIT IS MADE ESPECIALLY ABSORBING BY LITTLE DETAILS POINTED OUT BY THE GUIDE n LIKE THE PANEL WITH SLIDING WOODEN PADDLES TO DESIGNATE THE DAYS DUTIES EG HEAD SHAVING OR AT THE END OF THE TOUR THE MEASURING MACHINES IN THE PHAR MACY !BOVE THE GATE AS YOU LEAVE AN INSCRIPTION READS %GREDERE SED NON OMNIS h,EAVE BUT NOT ENTIRELYv ONCE ADDRESSED TO ANY MONK WHO HAD TO GO OUT ON SOME MISSION IN THE WIDER WORLD 0ARTS OF THE #ERTOSA COMPLEX ARE OWNED BY THE 5NIVERSITY OF 0ISA WHO HAVE INSTALLED THEIR NATURAL HISTORY COLLECTIONS HERE MID *UNE TO MID 3EPT 4UESn &RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN PMnMIDNIGHT REST OF YEAR 4UESn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM +
!LONG THE !RNO AND INTO THE 0ISAN HILLS ! COUPLE OF KILOMETRES SOUTH OF 6ICOPISANO THE !RNO VALLEY COMMENCES WITH A GLUM STRETCH OF UNRELIEVEDLY INDUSTRIALIZED DEVELOPMENT #3#).! ABOUT KM EAST OF 0ISA n A TOWN THAT BUT FOR THE ROAD SIGNS YOU WOULDNT REALIZE YOUD ENTERED n MIGHT HAVE BEEN WELL KNOWN HAD -ICHELANGELOS ILL FATED FRESCO FOR &LORENCES 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO SURVIVED THIS WAS THE SITE OF THE BATTLE DEPICTED IN IT ! CLUTCH OF CHURCHES WITHIN #ÉSCINAS MEDIEVAL WALLS MIGHT JUSTIFY A STOP n THE FRESCOED 3AN 'IOVANNI %VANGELISTA BUILT BY THE +NIGHTS OF 3T *OHN AND THE 2OMANESQUE 3AN #ASCIANO AND 3AN "ENEDETTO A 3ETTIMO THE LATTER WITH A FOURTEENTH CENTURY ALABASTER ALTARPIECE CARVED IN )RELAND 4HERES EVEN LESS TO BE SAID FOR 0/.4%$%2! KM EAST n ITS HOME OF THE 0IAGGIO FACTORY THAT PRODUCES THE UBIQUITOUS 6ESPA SCOOTER AND THATS ABOUT ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW 3AN -INIATO SEE P IS A SHORT DRIVE FURTHER EAST 3OUTH TO #ASCIANA 4ERME
&ROM #ÉSCINA OR 0ONTEDERA THE . ROAD SOUTH TO 6OLTERRA SEE P GOES THROUGH 0ONSACCO AND THEN PAST A LESS THAN SCINTILLATING -EDICI VILLA CLOSED TO THE PUBLIC AT #AMUGLIANO BUILT BY !LESSANDRO DE -EDICI AND CONTINUED BY HIS SUCCESSOR #OSIMO ) 4HERES A lNE THIRTEENTH CENTURY CHURCH EAST OF THE ROAD AT 0!,)! THOUGH ONLY DEVOUT ADMIRERS OF THE 2OMANESQUE WILL
WANT TO DRIVE THE KM FROM #APÉNNOLI TO SEE IT 3OUTH OF #APÉNNOLI YOURE INTO A HUMDRUM PROCESSION OF HILLS THE !LTA 6ALDERA WWWVALDERAORG UNTIL 6OLTERRAS CLIFFS REAR UP AHEAD 7EST OF THE . #!3#)!.! 4%2-% IS A PLEASANT WORKADAY SPA TOWN KM NORTH OF THE ATTRACTIVE LITTLE MEDIEVAL HAMLET OF 2IVALTO 4HE MAIN ROAD TO THE SOUTH OF #ASCIANA THROUGH #ASTELLINA -ARÖTTIMA TAKES IN THE BEST LOOK ING OF THE 0ISAN HILLS THOUGH WITH LITTLE TO WARRANT PROLONGED EXPLORATION )T EMERGES ON THE . A SHORT DISTANCE EAST OF #ÏCINA 0)3 ! 4(% # % .42!, # /!3 4 !.$ % , " !
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7EST OF 0ISA 3OME KM WEST OF 0ISA ON THE ROAD TO THE COAST IS THE MONASTIC COMPLEX OF 3AN 0IERO A 'RADO ALLEGEDLY FOUNDED BY 3T 0ETER HIMSELF ON HIS WAY TO 2OME AND MARTYRDOM 4HE SITE IS NOW IN RUINS EXCEPT FOR THE GLORIOUS ELEV ENTH CENTURY BASILICA A DOUBLE APSED CHURCH BUILT FROM LUSTROUS LOCAL YELLOW SANDSTONE 3T 0ETERS STORY IS DETAILED IN A SEQUENCE OF PALE FOURTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES INSIDE THE BASILICA DAILY AMnNOON nPM WHERE THE WHIFF OF THE SEA CONJURES A UNIQUELY EVOCATIVE ATMOSPHERE !T ONE END OF THE BASILICA A SEC TION OF A FOURTH CENTURY ORATORY HAS BEEN EXCAVATED THE MOST ANCIENT #HRISTIAN SITE IN THIS PART OF 4USCANY -!2).! $) 0)3! AT THE END OF THE ROAD IS AN UNOBJECTIONABLE LITTLE TOWN CURSED WITH WATER MADE GRUBBY BY INDUSTRIAL WASTE 4HE VIEW OUT TO SEA IS IMPAIRED BY A LONG BREAKWATER PARALLEL TO THE SHORE A SIGHT FREQUENTLY WORSENED BY PASSING TANKERS 4HESE FACTORS COMBINED WITH THE USUAL PRIVATE BEACH STRIPS DONT EXACTLY ENTICE 4)22%.)! KM SOUTH IS A BETTER BET n WITH lNER SAND SEPARATED FROM THE ROAD BY PINES AND PARKLAND )T HAS A GOOD SPREAD OF HOTELS AND A COUPLE OF CAMPSITES "USES DO THE HALF HOUR RUN FROM 0ISA TO BOTH RESORTS SUMMER EVERY MIN WINTER EVERY MIN THEY ARE BEST AVOIDED ON 3UNDAYS WHEN HUNDREDS OF LOCALS NIP DOWN TO THE SEA 4HE 0ARCO 2EGIONALE DI 3AN 2OSSORE
4HE 0ARCO 2EGIONALE DI 3AN 2OSSORE WWWPARKSITPARCOMIGLIARINO SANROSSORE SPREADS OVER MUCH OF THE COASTAL HINTERLAND BETWEEN 6IAREGGIO AND ,IVORNO )TS PINE WOODS ARE AMONG THE DENSEST IN 4USCANY SUPPORTING POPULA TIONS OF DEER GOATS AND WILD BOAR AND UNTIL 7ORLD 7AR )) WERE ALSO HOME TO A HERD OF DROMEDARIES DESCENDANTS OF THE ANIMALS PLACED HERE BY 'RAND $UKE &ERDINANDO )) IN THE S 4WO VISITOR CENTRES OFFER GUIDED TOURS ON FOOT BIKE OR HORSEBACK VISITESR TINIT OR TURISMO SANROSSORE IT FOR HORSE RIDING RESERVATIONS WHILE THE 3AN 2OSSORE ARCHEOLOGICAL SITE n WHERE IN A mEET OF 2OMAN SHIPS ALMOST PERFECTLY PRESERVED IN MUD FOR TWO MILLENNIA WERE DISCOVERED IN THE ANCIENT PORT n CAN BE VISITED BY PRIOR APPOINTMENT %IGHT VESSELS HAVE SO FAR BEEN RECOVERED INCLUDING WHAT EXPERTS BELIEVE COULD BE THE OLDEST 2OMAN WARSHIP EVER FOUND !T THE PARKS CENTRE LIES THE VILLAGE OF '/-"/ SCENE OF THE CREMATION OF 0ERCY "YSSHE 3HELLEY DROWNED WHILE SAILING FROM ,IVORNO AND HERE REDUCED TO ASHES IN FRONT OF HIS FRIENDS %DWARD 4RELAWNY AND ,ORD "YRON 4RELAWNY RECORDED THAT hTHE BRAINS LITERALLY SEETHED BUBBLED AND BOILED AS IN A CAULDRONx 7HAT SURPRISED US ALL WAS THAT THE HEART REMAINED ENTIRE )N SNATCHING THIS RELIC FROM THE lERY FURNACE MY HAND WAS SEVERELY BURNT AND HAD ANYONE SEEN ME DO THE ACT ) SHOULD HAVE BEEN PUT INTO QUARANTINEv
,IVORNO
4HE #ITY
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,IVORNO TRAIN STATION IS KM EAST OF THE CENTRE CITY BUSES AND RUN FROM HERE TO 0IAZZA 'RANDE THE HEART OF WHATS LEFT OF THE OLD TOWN -OST INTER TOWN BUSES ALSO STOP ON 0IAZZA 'RANDE ALTHOUGH BUSES FROM &LORENCE 0ISA AND ,UCCA USE 0IAZZA -ANIN A SHORT DISTANCE TO THE SOUTH 4HE 0ORTO -EDICEO n THE CANAL ENCLOSED AREA IN WHICH 0IAZZA 'RANDE STANDS n IS THE TOWNS MOST PICTURESQUE CORNER AND STILL CONFORMS TO THE PENTAGONAL PLAN DEVISED FOR THE -EDICI BY "UONTALENTI IN 4HE FOCAL POINT OF THE PIAZZA IS THE $UOMO A POSTWAR RECONSTRUCTION OF INTEREST MAINLY FOR ITS DOORWAY BY )NIGO *ONES WHOSE SUBSEQUENT PLAN FOR ,ONDONS #OVENT 'ARDEN WAS A DIRECT
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!S 4USCANYS THIRD LARGEST CITY AFTER &LORENCE AND 0RATO AND )TALYS SECOND BIG GEST PORT AFTER 'ENOA ,)6/2./ SHOULD REALLY HAVE MORE GOING FOR IT THAN IT DOES 5NFORTUNATELY ITS DOCKS INVITED BLANKET BOMBING IN 7ORLD 7AR )) AND THE REBUILT COMMERCIAL CENTRE IS NOT PRETTY (ENRY *AMESS OBSERVATION STILL LARGELY HOLDS TRUE h)T HAS NEITHER A CHURCH WORTH ONES ATTENTION NOR A MUNICIPAL PAL ACE NOR A MUSEUM AND IT MAY CLAIM THE DISTINCTION UNIQUE IN )TALY OF BEING THE CITY OF NO PICTURESv ,IVORNOS PRINCIPAL APPEAL APART FROM ITS FERRY CONNECTIONS IS THE EXCELLENT SEAFOOD ,IVORNOS ORIGINS GO BACK TO 2OMAN TIMES THOUGH THE PORT WAS ONLY DEVEL OPED UNDER #OSIMO ) AS AN ALTERNATIVE TO 0ISA WHOSE HARBOUR WAS SILTING UP ,ATER -EDICI DUKES DECLARED IT A FREE PORT AND INSTITUTED A LIBERAL CONSTITU TION AN EXTRAORDINARILY ENLIGHTENED MOVE WHICH PROMPTED AN INmUX OF *EWS 'REEKS 3PANISH -USLIMS %NGLISH #ATHOLICS AND A COSMOPOLITAN THRONG OF OTHER REFUGEES !S ONE OF THE FEW )TALIAN HARBOURS SAFE FROM THE 3PANISH IT mOURISHED ON THE BACK OF TRADE WITH %NGLAND AND (OLLAND AND ATTRACTED A COMMUNITY OF "RITISH EXPATRIATES SUCH AS 3HELLEY WHOSE ANGLICIZATION OF THE CITYS NAME TO ,EGHORN IS STILL USED IN SOME TOURIST BROCHURES 'REATER FREEDOM OF %UROPEAN TRADE BROUGHT SOME DECLINE THOUGH THE CITY RETAINED A REPUTATION FOR ENTERPRISE THAT WAS ESPECIALLY MANIFEST AFTER 7ORLD 7AR )) WHEN IT WAS AMONGST THE lRST TO REALIZE THE IMPORTANCE OF CONTAINER TRAFlC n THE BASIS OF ITS CURRENT PROSPERITY
&ERRIES FROM ,IVORNO 4HERE ARE DOZENS OF FERRY SAILINGS FROM ,IVORNO TO #ORSICA "ASTIA OR 0ORTO 6ECCHIO 3ARDINIA /LBIA 'OLFO !RANCI OR #AGLIARI 3ICILY 0ALERMO AND THE 4USCAN ISLANDS OF #APRAIA AND 'ORGONA .EARLY ALL FERRIES TO #ORSICA AND 3ARDINIA LEAVE FROM ALONGSIDE THE 3TAZIONE -ARITTIMA WEST OF THE CENTRE ALTHOUGH SOME AND BOATS TO 3ICILY DEPART FROM 6ARCO 'ALVANI A LONG WAY NORTH OF TOWN &ERRIES TO %LBA AND #APRAIA LEAVE FROM THE CENTRAL 0ORTO -EDICEO #HECK WITH THE TOURIST OFlCE AND WITH THE FERRY COMPANIES THEMSELVES FOR TIMES AND PRICES AND RESERVE WELL AHEAD IN SUMMER #ORSICA &ERRIES WWWCORSICAFERRIESCOM 4O "ASTIA #ORSICA #ORSICA -ARITTIMA WWWSNCMFR 4O "ASTIA AND 0ORTO 6ECCHIO #ORSICA -OBY ,INES WWWMOBYLINESIT 4O /LBIA 3ARDINIA AND "ASTIA #ORSICA 3ARDINIA &ERRIES WWWSARDINIAFERRIESCOM 4O 'OLFO !RANCI 3AR DINIA 4OREMAR WWWTOREMARIT 4O #APRAIA AND 'ORGONA
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-ODIGLIANI AND ,IVORNO
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4HERES A NICE IRONY TO THE FACT THAT THE MOST FAMOUS SON OF THE SENSIBLE MERCANTILE CITY OF ,IVORNO WAS AN ARCHETYPAL BOHEMIAN n HARD DRINKING WOMANIZING !MEDEO -ODIGLIANI "Y THE TIME -ODIGLIANI REACHED HIS MID TWENTIES HE WAS RENOWNED AS THE MOST DISSOLUTE lGURE IN -ONTPARNASSE BUT HIS FAMILY BACKGROUND IN ,IVORNO COULD NOT HAVE BEEN MORE RESPECTABLE (IS MOTHER %UGENIA 'ARSIN WAS FROM A PROSPER OUS AND HIGHLY INTELLECTUAL FAMILY BROUGHT UP SPEAKING &RENCH )TALIAN %NGLISH AND (EBREW (IS FATHERS ANCESTORS ALSO 3EPHARDIC *EWS WERE EQUALLY GRAND !MEDEOS GREAT GRANDFATHER HAD BEEN AN ADVISER TO .APOLEON -ODIGLIANI WAS BORN IN 6IA 2OMA IN THE YEAR THAT HIS FATHERS WOOD AND COAL COMPANY WAS DECLARED BANKRUPT 4HE FAMILY WAS OBLIGED TO MOVE FROM THEIR VILLA TO A MORE HUMBLE PROPERTY IN 6IA DELLE 6ILLE WHERE !MEDEO WAS STILL LIVING WHEN HE BEGAN HIS STUDIES AT THE ,IVORNO ART SCHOOL "Y AGED HE HAD BECOME BORED WITH THE ACADEMIC NATURE OF HIS TRAINING AND SOON EMBARKED ON A TRAVELLING APPRENTICE SHIP THAT WAS TO TAKE HIM TO .APLES &LORENCE AND 6ENICE )N HE ARRIVED IN 0ARIS WHERE HE WAS TO SPEND MOST OF THE REST OF HIS LIFE (E RETURNED TO ,IVORNO BRIEmY IN FOR A VACATION BY THE SEA AND CAME BACK AGAIN FOUR YEARS LATER ANTAGONIZING MOST PEOPLE HE MET WITH HIS ARROGANCE AND WILD BEHAVIOUR ! FRIEND TRIED TO PERSUADE HIM TO TAKE A STUDIO NEAR THE #ARRARA MARBLE QUARRIES BUT HE MISSED THE BIG CITY TOO MUCH AND LEFT AFTER A FEW MONTHS (E LIVED FOR JUST ONE MORE DECADE h) AM GOING TO DRINK MYSELF DEAD v HE DECLARED AND IN EFFECT HE DID DYING OF MENINGITIS AT THE AGE OF n LEAVING THE LATEST OF HIS INNUMERABLE MISTRESSES NINE MONTHS PREGNANT 3HE COMMITTED SUICIDE ON THE AFTERNOON OF HIS DEATH "EFORE LEAVING ,IVORNO FOR THE LAST TIME HE HAD ASKED SOME STUDENTS AT HIS FORMER ART SCHOOL IF THEY KNEW OF SOMEWHERE HE COULD STORE A GROUP OF SCULPTURES HE HAD CARVED h4HROW THEM IN THE CANAL v THEY ARE ALLEGED TO HAVE REPLIED )N THE CITY AUTHORITIES DECIDED TO FOLLOW UP THE LEAD BY DREDGING THE CANAL ROUND THE OLD TOWN n AND DULY DISCOVERED THREE STONE HEADS 4HEY TURNED OUT TO BE FAKES THE THREE SCHOOLBOYS RESPONSIBLE FOR THE HOAX APPEARING ON 46 TO DEMONSTRATE HOW THEY USED POWER TOOLS TO CREATE THE SCULPTURES THAT NEARLY SOLD FOR MILLIONS
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COPY OF THE SQUARE &ROM HERE 6IA 'RANDE LEADS DOWN TO THE SEA WHERE 3AN GALLOS &ORTEZZA 6ECCHIA GUARDS THE BUSTLING HARBOUR AND ITS TRIBUTARY CANALS ABOUT M NORTH OF CENTRAL ,IVORNOS ONLY ARTWORK OF NOTE THE 1UATTRO -ORI STATUE BY THE #ARRARAN SCULPTOR 0IETRO 4ACCA 4HOUGH &ERDINANDO ) IS THE CENTREPIECE THE KEY lGURES ARE THE FOUR -OORS ALTERNATIVELY CONSIDERED TO BE SLAVES OR MEMORIALS TO THE SUCCESS OF 4USCAN RAIDS AGAINST .ORTH !FRICAN SHIPPING 4O THE EAST OF THE $UOMO ON 6IA "UONTALENTI THE OCHRE -ERCATO #ENTRALE STANDS AT THE HEART OF A BOISTEROUS STREET MARKET &OLLOW THE CANAL NORTHEAST FROM HERE AND YOULL COME TO 0IAZZA 88 3ETTEMBRE HOME OF THE -ERCATO !MERICANO -ON nPM 4UESn3AT AMnPM WWWILMERCATINOAMERICANO IT SO CALLED BECAUSE OF THE AMOUNT OF ') SURPLUS ON SALE HERE AFTER THE WAR IT STILL DEALS IN MILITARY GEAR THERES A BIG 53 NAVAL BASE NEAR ,IVORNO AND THE USUAL mEA MARKET PARAPHERNALIA .ORTH OF HERE LIES THE 6ENEZIA DISTRICT WHERE CRUMBLING OLD TENEMENT BUILD INGS OVERLOOK THE BULKY &ORTEZZA .UOVA DAILY AMnPM FREE A MOATED SEMI DERELICT RECREATION AREA RINGED AROUND BY QUIET CANALS !T THE END OF *ULY AND BEGINNING OF !UGUST THE AREA COMES ALIVE WITH THE %FFETTO 6ENEZIA WWW EFFETTOVENEZIACOM A FREE STREET FESTIVAL WITH CONCERTS STREET PERFORMERS AND lREWORKS
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)F YOUVE TIME TO KILL IN ,IVORNO YOU COULD VISIT THE -USEO #IVICO 'IOVANNI &ATTORI 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM + WHICH IS DEVOTED TO &AT TORI AND THE LATE NINETEENTH CENTURY -ACCHIAIOLI MOVEMENT )TALYS VERSION OF )MPRESSIONISM ITS HOUSED IN THE 6ILLA -IMBELLI KM SOUTH OF THE CENTRE AT 6IA 3AN *ACOPO IN !CQUAVIVA BUS GOES THERE !LTERNATIVELY HOP ON BUS FROM THE STATION OR 0IAZZA 'RANDE FOR THE RIDE UP TO THE HILLTOP 3ANTUARIO DI -ONTENERO KM SOUTH WHICH HAS BEEN A PILGRIMAGE SITE SINCE AN APPARITION OF THE 6IRGIN IN THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY LONG BEFORE THE MARSHES BELOW WERE POPU LATED ! CLUTCH OF STALLS AND CAFÏS SURROUNDS THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY CHURCH AND YOULL lND QUIET FOOTPATHS AND PLENTY OF VANTAGE POINTS FOR VIEWS OVER ,IVORNO AND THE HILLSIDE VILLAS WHICH WERE ONCE HOME TO EXPATRIATES SUCH AS "YRON 3HEL LEY AND .APOLEON )))
0RACTICALITIES 4HE MAIN TOURIST OFlCE IS JUST OFF 6IA #AIROLI AT 0IAZZA #AVOUR -ONn&RI AMnPM nPM 3AT AMnPM WWWLIVORNOTURISMO TOSCANAIT IN SUMMER THERES ALSO A SMALL BOOTH AT THE #ALATA #ARRARA FERRY DOCK (OUR LONG BOAT TRIPS ON THE TOWNS CANALS ARE AVAILABLE FOR MUCH OF THE YEAR CONTACT THE TOURIST OFlCE FOR INFORMATION ,IVORNOS BEST HOTEL IS THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY VILLA ,A 6EDETTA ON THE -ON TENERO HILL AT 6IA DELLA ,ECCETA WWWHOTELLAVEDETTAIT
n WITH MODERN ROOMS AND PANORAMIC VIEWS "EING A PORT TOWN ,IVORNO HAS A RASH OF BASIC HOTELS SOME OF WHICH n AROUND THE HARBOUR AND STATION n ARE TRULY GRIM TO lND A REASONABLE ROOM ITS BEST TO HEAD FOR THE CENTRE OF THE OLD TOWN /NE OF THE BEST ONE STAR CHOICES IS -ILANO 6IA DEGLI !SILI WHICH OFFERS QUIET CLEAN ROOMS AND A GARDEN 0RICIER OPTIONS INCLUDE THE TWO STAR 'IARDINO 0IAZZA -AZZINI HOTEL GARDEN HOTMAILCOM !RISTON 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA WWWHOTELARISTONLIVORNOCOM AND %UROPA 6IA DELL!NGIOLO WWWHOTELEUROPALIVORNOIT ,IVORNOS YOUTH HOSTEL THE 6ILLA -ORAZZANA IS UP IN THE HILLS AT 6IA DI #OL LINET AND ALSO HAS SOME HOTEL ROOMS FROM + WWW VILLAMORAZZANAIT + TAKE BUS FROM THE TRAIN STATION TO 0IAZZA 'RANDE AND THEN BUS 4HE NEAREST CAMPSITE IS THE -IRAMARE WWW CAMPINGMIRAMARECOM MID !PRIL TO 3EPT A SHORT WAY SOUTH OF TOWN ON THE 6IA !URELIA PAST !NTIGNANO THERES ANOTHER THE #OLLINA ON THE ROAD TO #ASTEL LACCIO 6IA DI 1UERCIANELLA WWWCOLLINAIT &OR EATING THE GREAT TEMPTATION IS SEAFOOD 4HE LOCAL SPECIALITY IS CACCIUCCO A SPICY lSH AND SEAFOOD STEW TRADITIONALLY MADE FROM SCRAPS THE BOATS COULDNT SELL SERVED WITH GARLIC TOAST ! CHOICE RESTAURANT IF YOU CAN SPARE + A HEAD IS ,E #HIAVE 3CALI DELLE #ANTINE CLOSED 7ED 4WO OTHER RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS SPECIALIZING IN TYPICAL lSH DISHES ARE THE 6ECCHIA ,IVORNO 3CALI DELLE #ANTINE CLOSED 4UES AND THE /STERIA DEL -ARE "ORGO DEI #APPUCCINI CLOSED 4HURS 3EPT 4HERE ARE DOZENS OF GOOD TRATTORIE INCLUDING THE MODERATELY PRICED !RAGOSTA 0IAZZA !RSENALE CLOSED ALL DAY 4UES 3UN EVE ,E 6OLTE 6IA #ALAFATI CLOSED 3UN 'ALILEO 6IA DELLA #AMPANA CLOSED 7ED 3UN EVE AND THE BIG BUSY ,A "ARCAROLA 6IALE #ARDUCCI CLOSED 3UN /N 6ENEZIAS CANALSIDES YOULL lND THE ATTRACTIVE COUSCOUS HOUSE -EDITERRANEO 3CALI 0ONTE DI -ARMO CLOSED 4UES WHICH OFTEN HAS LIVE MUSIC AT THE WEEKENDS #AFÏ D%TOILE 6IA )NDIPENDENZA CLOSED 3UN IS A BREEZY CAFÏ OFF 0IAZZA #AVOUR SERVING FRESH SALADS AND SNACKS
4HE #OSTA DEGLI %TRUSCHI 4HERES LITTLE TO DISTINGUISH THE RESORTS THAT CLING TO THE ROAD SOUTH FROM ,IVORNO ALONG THE SO CALLED #OSTA DEGLI %TRUSCHI %TRUSCAN #OAST -OST ARE REMORSE LESSLY DEVELOPED AND EDGED WITH STONY OR SCRUBBY BEACHES AND HAVE AN APPEAL ONLY IF YOU WANT TO SHARE THE )TALIAN CHEEK BY JOWL SEASIDE EXPERIENCE !LL POINTS ON THE COAST AS FAR SOUTH AS &OLLØNICA CAN BE REACHED BY BUS OR TRAIN FROM ,IVORNO FASTER 0ISAn2OME EXPRESSES OFTEN STOP ONLY AT #ÏCINA WHICH HAS CONNECTIONS INLAND TO 6OLTERRA !BOUT KM SOUTH OF ,IVORNO 15%2#)!.%,,! IS A RELATIVELY SMALL RESORT THAT HAS CLUNG ONTO A HINTERLAND OF SCRUB COVERED HILLS AND ROCKY HEADLANDS 4HE BEACH IS PEBBLY BUT NEVERTHELESS POPULAR AND WELL DEVELOPED )F YOU WANT TO STAY THE ONE STAR 0ENSIONE 3OTTOCOSTA 6IA ' 0ASCOLI WWWSOTTOCOSTACOM OVERLOOKING THE SEA IS A REASONABLE BET #!34)',)/.#%,,/ THE BIGGEST OF THE RESORTS SPRAWLS OVER SEVERAL SMALL BAYS SOME WITH SAND MOST WITH PEBBLES AND ALL CRAMMED WITH BOATS AND BEACH HUTS 4HE BEST BEACH IS THE FEE CHARGING 1UERCETANO THE BAY AT #ALETTA IS ONE TO AVOID AS IS 2OSIGNANO KM SOUTH GRACED AS IT IS WITH A VAST CHEMICAL WORKS WITH OUTLETS INTO THE SEA 3MALLER 6!$! KM SOUTH OF 2OSIGNANO HAS A FEA TURELESS MODERN CENTRE BUT IS PREFERABLE TO #ASTIGLIONCELLO WITH A GOOD BEACH AND A LONG mAT STRETCH OF SAND AND PINES TO THE SOUTH THAT SHADE A COUPLE OF LARGE CAMPSITES THE BETTER BEING THE 4RIPESCE 6IA #AVALLAGGERI WWWCAMPINGTRIPESCECOM !PRIL TO MID /CT
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4HE TOWN OF #³#).! KM INLAND MARKS THE START OF THE -AREMMAS COASTAL PLAINS AND HAS BUSES AND TRAINS HEADING INLAND TO 3ALINE DI 6OLTERRA SEE P 4HE CHEAPEST HOTEL IN TOWN IS )L 0ONTE ,ARGO -AGGIO WWWHOTELILPONTECOM 4HERE ARE FAIR SECTIONS OF BEACH AT -!2).! $) #³#).! MOST FREELY ACCESSIBLE SAVE FOR A PATCH CORDONED OFF BY THE LOCAL MILITARY ACADEMY ! SUMMER ONLY TOURIST OFlCE IN 6IALE 'ALLIANO HAS INFORMATION ON THE BACK TO BACK FESTIVALS ANTIQUES IN *ULY ARTS AND MUSIC IN 3EPTEMBER AND A MISCELLANEOUS h/CTOBER &AIRv !MONG THE HOTELS ON 6IALE DELLA 6ITTORIA IS TWO STAR !ZZURRA 4O THE NORTH ARE SOME HUGE CAMPSITES &OR INEXPENSIVE FOOD THERES THE GOOD ROSTICCERIA 0ECCATI DI 'OLA 6IALE 'ALLIANO !PRILn3EPT
4HE "ØLGHERI RESERVE AND "IBBONA 3OUTH OF #ÏCINA THE MAIN ROAD PULLS BACK FROM THE COAST LEAVING A FEW TRACTS RELATIVELY UNSPOILT )F YOU TAKE ANY OF THE MINOR TURNINGS TO THE SEA YOULL lND PINE FOREST AND BEACHES ONLY SLIGHTLY TOUCHED BY DEVELOPMENT BUT THE BEST STRETCH IS THE EXQUISITE 2IFUGIO &AUNISTICO DI "ØLGHERI A NATURE RESERVE RUN BY THE 7ORLD 7IDE &UND FOR .ATURE VISITS ONLY AVAILABLE WITH A GUIDE NEED TO BE PRE BOOKED HR IN ADVANCE WITH THE 77& IN 0IOMBINO &RI 3AT AMnPM + CHILDREN + 4HE ENTRANCE IS OFF THE MAIN 33 JUST SOUTH OF THE GLORIOUS AVENUE OF TREES THAT RUNS TO "ØLGHERI VILLAGE TAKE THE LANE THAT RUNS OVER THE RAIL TRACKS TO THE SEA &OUNDED IN THIS WAS THE lRST PRIVATE NATURE RESERVE IN )TALY AND IS NOW RECOGNIZED AS A WILDLIFE CENTRE OF INTERNATIONAL IMPORTANCE 4HE RESERVE IS A MICROCOSM OF THE VARIOUS HABITATS ASSOCIATED WITH THE ANCIENT -AREMMA
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SEASHORE DUNES FULL OF RARE PLANTS MARSH AND LAKELAND PINE GROVES TRACTS OF JUNIPER AND MIXED SCRUB FOREST MACCHIA GRASSLAND AND SOME OF THE OLD EST STANDS OF CYPRESS IN )TALY 3UCH IS THE TRANQUILLITY OF THE AREA THAT EVEN IN DAYLIGHT YOU CAN EXPECT TO SEE BOAR ROE BUCK MARTENS BLACK AND WHITE PORCUPINES EVEN OTTERS n AN EXTREMELY RARE SPECIES IN )TALY 4HOUSANDS OF BIRDS ALSO SETTLE HERE ITS THE SOUTHERN LIMIT OF THE LAPWING AND A SPOT FOR RARITIES LIKE BLUETHROATS "LYTH REED WARBLERS THEIR lRST SIGHTING IN )TALY GREY HERONS CRANES BLACK STORKS AND HUNTERS SUCH AS THE OSPREY AND LESSER SPOT TED EAGLE 4HE NEARBY RESORT OF -!2).! $) ")""/.! HAS AN IMMENSELY BROAD STRETCH OF SAND RUNNING FOR MILES SOUTH FROM THE VILLAGE ALONG A PINEWOOD BACKDROP TO lND PRIVACY JUST WALK BEYOND THE BEACH UMBRELLAS &OR A REASON ABLE BEACH HOTEL WITH A GARDEN BEAR LEFT ON THE APPROACH ROAD TO &ORTE DI "IBBONA TO THE TWO STAR 0ARADISO 6ERDE 6IA DEL &ORTE WWW HOTELPARADISOVERDECOM 3AN 6INCENZO
3!. 6).#%.:/ ABOUT KM SOUTH IS THE FAST GROWING RESORT OF THE MOMENT THOUGH IT HAS A GOOD BEACH WITH PLENTY OF QUIETER SPOTS OUT ON THE FRINGES 4HERES A TOURIST OFlCE ON 6IA " !LLIATA -ONn3AT AMnPM ALSO nPM -ON 7ED &RI 3UMMER ACCOMMODATION IS AT A PREMIUM WITHOUT A BOOKING YOU MAY HAVE TO SETTLE FOR THE ONLY CAMPSITE 0ARK !LBATROS KM FROM THE SEA AT 0INETA DI 4ORRE .UOVA WWWECVACANZEIT )NLAND n #ASTAGNETO #ARDUCCI TO #AMPIGLIA
)F YOURE DRIVING SOUTH FROM 0ISA YOU COULD TAKE TIME OUT FROM THE PLAIN INDUCED MONOTONY OF THE 6IA !URELIA BY TURNING OFF AT $ONARATICO KM BEFORE 3AN 6INCENZO FOR A KILOMETRE LOOP INTO THE HILLS OF THE -ONTE #ALVI NATURE RESERVE VIA A HANDFUL OF SCARCELY VISITED MEDIEVAL VILLAGES 4HIS AREA IS HOME TO THE -ONTESCUDAIO "OLGHERI AND 6AL DI #ORNIA $/# WINES n WORTH SEEKING OUT BY FOLLOWING THE 3TRADA DEL 6INO DEGLI %TRUSCHI WINE ROAD WWWLASTRADADELVINOCOM THATS SIGNPOSTED EVERYWHERE #!34!'.%4/ #!2$5##) KM EAST OF $ONARATICO IS RENOWNED FOR TWO THINGS IT WAS THE BIRTHPLACE OF THE POET #ARDUCCI WINNER OF THE .OBEL 0RIZE IN AND IT PRODUCES WHAT IS WIDELY CONSIDERED THE BEST OLIVE OIL IN )TALY 4HE VILLAGE IS RIDDLED WITH LITTLE ALLEYWAYS AND HAS A PARISH CHURCH lLLED WITH FADED FRESCOES AND PAINTED TERRACOTTA SAINTS "EYOND THE ROAD IS A ROLLERCOASTER OF SEA VIEWS AND WOODS WITH A SINGLE HOTEL RESTAURANT THE TWO STAR ,A 3ELVA 6IA DELLE &ORNACI HOTELSELVA TISCALINETIT JUST BEFORE THE ROAD TOUCHES THE LITTLE VILLAGE OF 3!33%44! A CAR FREE MAZE OF MINUTE STREETS HOME TO A GOOD RESTAURANT /STERIA #ERA 5NA 6OLTA 0IAZZA DEL 0LEBISCITO WITH TABLES OUTSIDE &OR THE lRST THREE 3UNDAYS OF /CTOBER THE ALLEYS ARE lLLED WITH TABLES LADEN WITH SEASONAL DISHES AND CHESTNUTS FOR THE ANNUAL &ESTA DELLA 4ORDATA A GASTRONOMIC FESTIVAL CELEBRATING THE THRUSH 4HE ROAD THEN TWISTS DOWN TO 356%2%4/ WHOSE THIN SHIELD OF MODERN OUTSKIRTS HIDES ANOTHER OLD CENTRE WITH ITS THIRTEENTH CENTURY 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE AND THE 0ISAN 2OMANESQUE CHURCH OF 3AN 'IUSTO 4HE VILLAGES $ECEMBER FESTIVAL ADDRESSES ITSELF TO THE LOCAL WILD BOAR ! SLIGHT DETOUR ON THE RETURN TO THE COAST TAKES IN #!-0)',)! -!2·4 4)-! ANOTHER LITTLE GEM PARTLY SPOILT BY NEW HOUSES AND HOLIDAY HOMES BUT WITH A PERFECT CENTRAL PIAZZA COMPOSED OF CIVIC PALAZZI AND A lNE 2OMANESQUE CHURCH 4HE INEXPENSIVE TRATTORIA OPPOSITE THE TRAIN STATION IS POPULAR AND FOR
0OPULONIA AND THE 'OLFO DI "ARATTI
0ERCHED ON A HIGH ROCKY HEADLAND KM OFF THE COAST ROAD 0/05,/.)! WAS ONCE A CENTRE OF %TRUSCAN AND 2OMAN IRON PRODUCTION USING ORE FROM %LBA .OW ITS A TINY PLACE LOOKING DOWN ON THE BROAD HALF MOON BAY OF THE 'OLFO DI "ARATTI WITH SOME OF THE BEST BEACHES FOR MILES AROUND 4HERES AN IMPRESSIVE LOOKING FORTRESS AT THE EDGE OF THE VILLAGE DISAPPOINTING INSIDE EXCEPT FOR THE lNE VIEWS ACROSS THE HILLS 4HE ENTERPRISING INHABITANTS OF 6IA 3 'IOVANNI DI 3OTTO OFF THE MAIN STREET HAVE OPENED A SMALL PRIVATE MUSEUM OF %TRUSCAN ODDS AND ENDS -ARCHn.OV DAILY AMnPM $ECn&EB ON REQUEST SMALL ADMISSION FEE 4HE SAME STREET HAS A MODERATELY PRICED RESTAURANT THE 0OPULONIA /N THE BAY BELOW ONCE 0OPULONIAS PORT THERES A CLUSTER OF HOUSES GLORIlED WITH THE NAME OF "!2!44) A COLOURFUL BASE FOR lSHING BOATS WHOSE %TRUS CAN ROOTS ARE CELEBRATED IN AN EIGHTY HECTARE ARCHEOLOGICAL PARK *UNEn3EPT -ONn3AT AMnPM REST OF YEAR HOURS AND DAYS VARY + INCLUDES ACCESS TO ONE TOMB + FOR BOTH WWWPARCHIVALDICORNIAIT ! MULTIMEDIA PRESENTA TION PROVIDES BACKGROUND DETAIL FOLLOWED BY TOURS OF THE CAVES AND A NECROPOLIS OR TWO n ALLOW A GOOD THREE HOURS FOR THE WHOLE TOUR 4HERES SCOPE FOR SOME FREELANCE CAMPING LOCALLY OR TRY THE CAMPSITE 3ANT!LBINIA 6IA DELLA 0RINCIPESSA -AY TO MID 3EPT 4HE NICEST LOW COST HOTEL IS THE SEAFRONT !LBA WHICH HAS A PLEASANT GARDEN
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EXCELLENT lSH YOU COULD TRY THE MODERATELY PRICED )L #ANOVACCIO 6IA 6ECCHIO !SILO CLOSED 4UES IN WINTER .EAR THE TRAIN STATION YOULL lND A REASONABLE TWO STAR HOTEL )L 0IAVE 0IAZZA .ICCOLINI
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0)/-")./ THE MAIN PORT OF DEPARTURE TO %LBA IS NOT A PLACE TO LINGER SINCE ITS DOMINATED BY A MASSIVE STEELWORKS THAT WAS REBUILT AFTER WARTIME BOMB ING AND IS LIKELY TO BE SHUT DOWN SOMETIME SOON 4HE ONLY POINT IN PASSING THROUGH IS TO TAKE A FERRY TO %LBA IN WHICH CASE IF YOURE TRAVELLING BY TRAIN YOU SHOULD CHANGE AT #AMPIGLIA -ARÓTTIMA SEE ABOVE FROM WHERE CONNECTING TRAINS RUN THROUGH 0IOMBINO TO 0IOMBINO -ARÓTTIMA 3HOULD FERRY TIMINGS OBLIGE YOU TO STAY OVERNIGHT GO FOR THE TWO STAR 2OMA 6IA 3AN &RANCESCO OR THE 0IAVE IN #AMPIGLIA 4HE MAIN TOURIST OFlCE IS ON 6IA &ERRUCCIO -ONn3AT AMnPM
%LBA
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.EARLY KM LONG AND KM ACROSS %,"! IS THE THIRD LARGEST )TALIAN ISLAND AFTER 3ICILY AND 3ARDINIA YET UNTIL THIRTY YEARS AGO IT WAS KNOWN ONLY FOR ITS MINERAL RESOURCES AND AS .APOLEONS PLACE OF EXILE .OW HOWEVER ITS SUFFERING THE FATE OF MANY A -EDITERRANEAN IDYLL DEVOURED BY TOURISM IN THE SUMMER AND ALL BUT DESERTED IN THE LONG OFF SEASON )F YOU COME HERE IN !UGUST WHEN AN ESTIMATED ONE MILLION VISITORS mOOD ONTO %LBA YOULL HAVE TROUBLE lNDING A ROOM OR EVEN SPACE TO CAMP 4O GET THE MOST OUT OF THE ISLAND VISIT IN SPRING OR LATE SUMMER %LBA HAS BEEN INHABITED SINCE ABOUT "# OWING TO ITS MINERAL WEALTH 4HE 'REEKS NAMED IT !ETHALIA h3PARKSv AFTER ITS MANY FORGES AND 2OMAN SWORDS WERE MADE OF %LBAN IRON 4HE LAST IRON ORE MINE CLOSED IN BUT ITS STILL A GEOLOGISTS DREAM WITH AN ESTIMATED THOUSAND DIFFERENT MINERALS FROM ANDALUSITE TO ZIRCON 4HE ISLANDS ENDURING APPEAL COMES FROM ITS EXCEPTIONALLY CLEAR WATER lNE WHITE BEACHES AND A MOUNTAINOUS INTERIOR IDEALLY SUITED TO EASY SUM MER STROLLS $EVELOPMENT IS SPREAD OVER A SERIES OF FAIRLY RESTRAINED RESORTS AND THE TOWNS AND VILLAGES RETAIN THEIR DISTINCT CHARACTERS 0ORTOFERRAIO IS VERY MUCH THE CAPITAL AND CENTRE OF THE GOOD ROAD AND TRANSPORT NETWORK -ARINA DI #AMPO ON THE SOUTH COAST HAS THE BEST BEACH 4HE LEAST VISITED AND LOVELIEST PART OF THE ISLAND CENTRES ON -ONTE #APANNE M AND THE WESTERN COAST FROM -ARCIANA TO &ETOVAIA 0OGGIO AND THE CENTRAL INTERIOR VILLAGES ARE SHELTERED BY LUSH WOODS AND GIVE ACCESS TO HIKES IN THE HILLS )N THE ISLANDS EASTERN SEGMENT n THE OLD MINING DISTRICT n 0ORTO !ZZURRO AND THE MORE PLEASANT #APOLIVERI GIVE ACCESS TO A STRING OF SMALLER BUT MUCH VISITED VILLAGES
&ERRIES TO %LBA
!T 0IOMBINO PORT YOULL lND PLENTY OF TICKET OUTLETS FOR ALL FERRY COMPANIES SAILING TO %LBA &ERRIES RUN TO 0ORTOFERRAIO EVERY DAY OF THE YEAR THE lRST AROUND AM THE LAST AROUND PM EARLIER AND LATER IN HIGH SUMMER A ONE WAY TICKET COSTS FROM + PLUS AROUND + PER CAR DEPENDING ON THE DAY AND THE SEASON -OBY ,INES WWWMOBYLINESIT $AILY FERRIES TO 0ORTOFERRAIO HR 4OREMAR WWWTOREMARIT $AILY FERRIES TO 0ORTOFERRAIO HR 2IO -ARINA HR AND 0ORTO !ZZURRO HR MIN !LSO A FOUR DAILY HYDROFOIL ALISCAFO TO 0ORTOFERRAIO VIA #AVO nMIN n HALF THE JOURNEY TIME OF THE FERRY BUT ALMOST DOUBLE THE PRICE
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4HE SEVEN 4USCAN ISLANDS n %LBA #APRAIA 'ORGONA -ONTECRISTO 0IANOSA 'IGLIO AND 'IANNUTRI n TOGETHER COMPRISE THE LARGEST PROTECTED MARINE PARK IN %UROPE THE 0ARCO .AZIONALE !RCIPELAGO 4OSCANO WWWISLEPARKIT #APRAIA WAS ONCE A PRISON ISLAND A FUNCTION STILL PERFORMED BY 'ORGONA THE TINY ISLAND TO THE NORTH 4HE JAIL ON NEARBY 0IANOSA IS NOW CLOSED AND ALTHOUGH ACCESS IS LIMITED AN OCCASIONAL FERRY SHUTTLES DAY TRIPPERS FROM %LBA 4HE ROCKY ISLET OF -ONTECRISTO n POKING M ABOVE THE WAVES SOUTH OF %LBA n IS ACCESSIBLE ONLY TO RESEARCH SCIENTISTS 2EACHED FROM 0ORTO 3ANTO 3TEFANO FURTHER SOUTH 'IGLIO AND ITS TINY NEIGHBOUR 'IANNUTRI ARE INCREASINGLY POPULAR HOLIDAY DESTINATIONS
)SLAND TRANSPORT
"USES RUN TO JUST ABOUT EVERYWHERE ON THE ISLAND LIMITED SERVICE AFTER PM THE KEY SERVICES FROM 0ORTOFERRAIO ARE TO 0ROCCHIO -ARINA DI #AMPO AND 0ORTO !ZZURRO OTHER ROUTES ARE MORE SPORADIC "OATS ARE MUCH USED TO REACH OUT OF THE WAY BEACHES AND THEYRE WELL ADVERTISED AT ALL THE PORTS IN HIGH SEASON EXPECT TO PAY +n PER DAY EXCLUDING FUEL 2ENTING A BIKE OR SCOOTER SEE P IS A GOOD WAY OF EXPLORING THE ISLAND BUT CAR RENTAL IS LESS ADVISABLE ROADS TO THE BEACHES AND AROUND THE MAJOR RESORTS CAN GET NASTILY CONGESTED IN HIGH SEASON WHILE WINTER BOOKINGS CAN BE HARD TO COME BY
0ORTOFERRAIO AND AROUND 0/24/&%22!)/ IS MOST PEOPLES lRST PORT OF CALL AND UNLESS YOURE INTER ESTED SOLELY IN BEACH LIFE ITS A PLACE YOULL COME BACK TO ITS PROBABLY THE ISLANDS LIVELIEST TOWN n CLOSELY FOLLOWED BY #APOLIVERI n AND HAS THE WIDEST RANGE OF ACCOMMODATION "EYOND THE BUSY PORT AREA IT ALSO RETAINS AN OLD TOWN WHICH MIGHT BE LOW ON SIGHTS BUT HAS MORE THAN A LITTLE CHARM AND A FEW KILOMETRES INLAND THERES ONE OF THE CRUCIAL SIGHTS ON THE .APOLEONIC TRAIL THE VILLA AT 3AN -ARTINO 0ORTOFERRAIO CONSISTS OF A MODERN SECTOR n WHERE THE FERRIES ARRIVE n AND THE OLD -EDICEAN PORT WITH ITS FORTIlCATIONS AND lSHING HARBOUR 4O GET TO THE LATTER TURN RIGHT OFF THE FERRY ALONG #ALATA )TALIA PAST ALL THE CAR PARKS TO THE HARBOUR SIDE #ALATA -AZZINI THE TOWNS PASSEGGIATA PARADE -IDWAY ROUND #ALATA -AZZINI IS THE ENTRANCE TO THE OLD TOWN THE 0ORTA A -ARE FROM WHERE AN AMPITHEATRE OF STREETS RISES TOWARDS THE WALLS ON THE HIGH CLIFFS 4HE TOWNS MOST OBVIOUS FEATURES ARE THE FORTIlCATIONS BUILT n LIKE ,IVORNOS n BY THE -EDICI YOU CAN PASS AN HOUR OR SO WANDERING AROUND THEM EVEN THOUGH MANY OF THE MAIN BASTIONS ARE NOW IN PRIVATE HANDS -OST VISITORS WALK UP 6IA 'ARIBALDI AND MAKE STRAIGHT FOR .APOLEONS HOME IN EXILE THE 6ILLA DEI -ULINI -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM + JOINT THREE DAY TICKET WITH 6ILLA DI 3AN -ARTINO + "UILT SPECIlCALLY FOR THE EX EMPEROR ON A SITE CHOSEN FOR ITS lNE VIEWS OF THE BAY THE VILLA FEATURES A STUNNING "AROQUE BEDROOM A LIBRARY OF TWO THOUSAND BOOKS SENT OVER FROM &ONTAINEBLEAU AND VARIOUS ITEMS OF MEMORABILIA n INCLUDING THE .APOLEONIC %LBAN mAG SEE BOX ! SMALL ROCK ENCLOSED BEACH CALLED ,E 6ISTE IS SIGNPOSTED FROM THE 0ALAZZINA BUT OTHERWISE THERES LITTLE ELSE TO SEE UNLESS YOURE DETERMINED TO CHECK OUT EVERY .APOLEON RELATED SCRAP )N THAT CASE YOU COULD DROP INTO THE SMALL .APO LEONIC MUSEUM IN 6IA 'ARIBALDIS #HIESA DELLA -ISERICORDIA FOR OPENING HOURS CALL AND THE SIMILAR PLACE LOWER DOWN IN 3ANTISSIMO 3ACRAMENTO n BOTH CONTAIN DEATH MASKS OF THE EMPEROR AND NOT A LOT MORE 4HERES A -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO IN THE FORT SUMMER DAILY AMnPM
.APOLEON AND %LBA
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%LBA IS INDISSOLUBLY LINKED WITH .APOLEON EVEN THOUGH HE WAS EXILED HERE FOR LITTLE MORE THAN NINE MONTHS n FROM -AY TO &EBRUARY !CCORDING TO ISLAND TRADITION AFTER RENOUNCING THE THRONES OF &RANCE AND )TALY BY THE 4REATY OF &ONTAINEB LEAU .APOLEON CHOSE %LBA AS HIS PLACE OF EXILE FOR THE hGENTLENESS OF ITS CLIMATES AND ITS INHABITANTSv )N FACT HE HAD NO CHOICE THE ALLIES PACKED HIM OFF HERE SWEETENING THE PILL BY ORDAINING THAT %LBA WOULD BE hA SEPARATE PRINCIPALITY FOR HIS LIFETIME HELD BY HIM IN COMPLETE SOVEREIGNTYv 4HE DETHRONED EMPEROR SPENT THE JOURNEY SOUTH DOO DLING A NEW mAG FOR HIS POCKET SIZED DOMAIN A RED DIAGONAL ON A WHITE BACKGROUND n ECHOING THE -EDICI BANNER n PLUS THE BEES OF HIS OWN IMPERIAL EMBLEM !FTER A CONFUSING EPISODE IN WHICH HIS SHIP WAS SHELLED FROM 0ORTOFERRAIO .APOLE ON CAME ASHORE TO A ROUSING WELCOME AND SOON SET ABOUT REORGANIZING THE ISLANDS ECONOMY AND INFRASTRUCTURE 3OME OF THIS WORK MIGHT HAVE BEEN MOTIVATED BY ALTRU ISM OR AN INABILITY TO FORGO POLITICS BUT MUCH OF WHAT HE ACHIEVED WAS FOR HIS OWN ENDS 4HE IRON ORE MINES WERE REVAMPED TO SUPPLEMENT HIS INCOME HIS PROMISED SALARY FROM ,OUIS 86)) HAVING NEVER MATERIALIZED THE PUBLIC WORKS WERE TO OCCUPY AND PAY FOR THE lVE HUNDRED STRONG .APOLEONIC 'UARD THAT STUCK BY HIM 0ORTOFER RAIO WAS GIVEN DRAINS BECAUSE THE STENCH OFFENDED THE IMPERIAL NOSTRILS 3OME OF THE LONGER TERM PLANNING HOWEVER UNDOUBTEDLY PAID DIVIDENDS TO THE ISLANDERS EDUCATION AND THE LEGAL SYSTEM WERE OVERHAULED ROADS WERE BUILT AGRICUL TURE WAS MODERNIZED LAND WAS CLEARED DEFENCES WERE REPAIRED 4HESE MULTIFARIOUS SCHEMES SUGGESTED THAT .APOLEON HAD RESIGNED HIMSELF TO HIS LIFE SENTENCE BUT INTRIGUE RUMOUR AND UNREST IN &RANCE PERSUADED HIM TO HAVE ANOTHER GO 4HE DAY AFTER 3IR .EIL #AMPBELL HIS "RITISH KEEPER LEFT FOR ,IVORNO HE RETURNED TO &RANCE AND THE h(UNDRED $AYSv THAT WERE TO CULMINATE IN HIS DEFEAT AT 7ATERLOO
nPM + WHICH HOUSES MAINLY 2OMAN REMAINS FOUND IN THE SEA AROUND %LBA AND PIECES FROM PRE 2OMAN SITES ON THE ISLAND 6ILLA DI 3AN -ARTINO
.APOLEONS SISTER %LISA BOUGHT THE 6ILLA DI 3AN -ARTINO 4UESn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM + JOINT THREE DAY TICKET WITH 6ILLA DEI -ULINI + IN THE HILLS KM SOUTHWEST OF 0ORTOFERRAIO AS A SUMMER RESIDENCE JUST BEFORE THE EMPEROR n WHOD BUILT IT AS A RETREAT n LEFT THE ISLAND FOR GOOD &ROM 0ORTOFERRAIO BUS GOES TO THE GATES %NGULFED BY A VAST CAR PARK AND TROLLEYS mOGGING .APOLEONIC SOUVENIRS THE VILLA IS A RATHER CHILLY AFFAIR BUT ITS DRAB .EOCLASSICAL FACADE IS AT LEAST SPRIN KLED WITH EXUBERANT h.v MOTIFS 4HE MONOGRAMS WERE THE IDEA OF 0RINCE $EMIDOFF HUSBAND OF .APOLEONS NIECE n AND IT WAS HE WHO BOUGHT UP THE VILLA TO CREATE A .APOLEONIC MUSEUM "Y ALL ACCOUNTS THE GREAT MAN HIMSELF HARDLY SPENT ANY TIME HERE AND THE PERMANENT EXHIBITS ARE NO GREAT SHAKES THOUGH SPECIAL ANNUAL EXHIBITIONS ARE HELD ON A .APOLEONIC THEME (IGHLIGHT OF THE HOUSE IS THE 3ALA %GIZIO WITH FRIEZES OUTLINING .APOLEONS %GYPTIAN CAMPAIGN ONE OF HIS MORE SUCCESSFUL !T THE BACK OF THE PALAZZO IS .APOLEONS OWN MODEST SUMMER RETREAT n IN SOME RESPECTS HE HAD SIMPLE TASTES n WHICH WAS HOME TO THE FAMOUS GRAFlTO h5BICUNQUE FELIX .APOLEONv .APOLEON IS HAPPY ANYWHERE UNTIL WHEN IT WAS DISCOVERED TO BE A FAKE AND CONSE QUENTLY REMOVED /N THE WAY TO OR FROM 3AN -ARTINO THE BUS PASSES THE /PEN !IR -USEUM )TALO "OLANO *UNEn3EPT -ONn3AT AMnNOON nPM FREE WWW ITALOBOLANOCOM WHERE THE ARTIST HAS LANDSCAPED HUGE WALLS OF CERAMIC TILES INTO THE COUNTRYSIDE
0RACTICALITIES
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0ORTOFERRAIOS TOURIST OFlCE IS HOUSED IN THE TALLEST BUILDING IN TOWN AN UNMISSABLE EYESORE RISING TEN STOREYS ABOVE THE QUAY #ALATA )TALIA -ONn3AT SUMMER AMnPM WINTER AMnPM nPM WWW APTELBAIT ! NEWSAGENT OPPOSITE THE BUS STATION SELLS HIKING MAPS SUCH AS THE +OMPASS )SOLA D%LBA AND THE GREEN #ARTA 4URISTICA E 3ENTIERI &OR INFORMATION ABOUT %LBAS WILDLIFE CONTACT THE NATIONAL PARK HEADQUARTERS 6IA 'UERRAZZI WWWISLEPARKIT )F YOURE STUCK FOR ACCOMMODATION THE !SSOCIAZIONE !LBERGATORI #ALATA )TA LIA -ONn&RI AMnPM nPM 3AT AMnPM WWWALBERGATORIELBANIIT WILL PHONE AROUND TO lND A ROOM OR BOOK YOU AN APARTMENT MOST WITH TWO DOUBLES PLUS COOKING FACILITIES n AVAILABLE *ULY !UG BY THE WEEK REST OF YEAR BY THE DAY )F THESE FAIL TO TURN UP SOMETHING n AS IS ALL TOO LIKELY IN !UGUST n TOUR THE BARS AND ASK ABOUT PRIVATE ROOMS !CCOMMODATION
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0ORTOFERRAIOS BEST HOTEL THANKS TO ITS SENSE OF EXCLUSIVE ISOLATION AND IMPECCA BLE SERVICE IS THE 0ARK (OTEL .APOLEON A NINETEENTH CENTURY MANSION BESIDE THE EMPERORS VILLA AT 3AN -ARTINO WWWPARKHOTELNAPOLEONE IT /THER GOOD UPMARKET CHOICES ARE THE 6ILLA /MBROSA 6IA DE 'ASPERI WWWVILLAOMBROSAIT OR THE PLUSH #RYSTAL 6IA #AIROLI WWWHOTELCRYSTALIT BOTH ON OR NEAR THE BEACH AT ,E 'HIAIE )N TOWN THE BEST OPTIONS ARE ,!PE %LBANA JUST OFF 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA AT 3ALITA #OSIMO DE -EDICI APEELBANA ELBAIT AND NICELY LOCATED )L 4OURING AT 6IA 2OMA )F YOURE STUCK FOR A BED -ASSIMO #ALATA )TALIA WWWELBAHOTELMASSIMO IT WITH ROOMS SHOULD HAVE SOME CHANCE OF SPACE 4HE NEAREST CAMP SITES ARE ,A 3ORGENTE WWWCAMPINGLASORGENTEIT !PRILn /CT !CQUAVIVA WWWCAMPINGACQUAVIVAIT AND ,A %NFOLA WWWCAMPINGENFOLAIT ALL nKM ALONG THE ROAD WEST TO 6ITICCIO AND ACCESSIBLE BY BUS %ATING AND DRINKING
0ORTOFERRAIOS RESTAURANTS ARE EXPENSIVE AND FEW HAVE FOOD TO MERIT THE PRICES 4HE WELL PATRONIZED 0IZZERIA )L #ASTAGNACCIAIO IN 6IA DEL -ERCATO 6ECCHIO PARAL LEL TO 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA SELLS THE CHEAPEST n AND SMALLEST n PIZZAS OR TRY THE INEXPENSIVE 0ANE E 0OMODORO NEXT DOOR ,!PE %LBANA HOTEL RESTAURANT SEE ABOVE HAS A CHOICE OF SIX INEXPENSIVE TOURIST MENUS "EST KNOWN OF THE MORE UPMARKET CHOICES ARE ,A &ERRIGNA 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA CLOSED 4UES IN WINTER AND 4RATTORIA ,A "ARCA 6IA 'UERAZZI CLOSED 7ED IN WINTER &OR A TREAT BOOK AHEAD AT THE EXPENSIVE TERRACE RESTAU RANT OF THE 0ARK (OTEL .APOLEON AT 3AN -ARTINO SEE ABOVE THE CLASSIC 4USCAN CUISINE IS EXQUISITE AND THE MULTILINGUAL SERVICE IS SOMETHING SPECIAL &OR BARS PICK FROM ANY OF THE PLACES AROUND 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA IN THE HEART OF THE OLD TOWN OR 0IAZZA #AVOUR n PARTICULARLY "AR 2OMA WHICH IS THE MOST POPULAR BAR WITH LOCALS WITH MUSIC IN THE SUMMER AND UPMARKET PRICES OR TRY "AR +URSAAL IN THE SAME SQUARE ,ISTINGS
"IKE AND MOPED RENTAL "OTH ARE AVAILABLE FROM 47. BY THE BUS STATION 6IALE %LBA WWWTWN RENTIT MOUNTAIN
BIKES AND MOPEDS COST AROUND + A DAY #AR RENTAL )N THE PORT AREA TRY 2ENT #HIAPPI #ALATA )TALIA WWWRENTCHIAPPI
IT OR NEARBY 4ESI 6IAGGI )N TOWN TRY (APPY 2ENT 6IALE %LBA OR 2ENT -ONDO 6IA 2ENATO &UCINI 2ECKON ON +nDAY &ERRY INFORMATION 2ETURN FERRIES TO 0IOMBINO ARE OFTEN PACKED AND YOU SHOULD BOOK YOUR RETURN AS FAR IN ADVANCE AS POSSIBLE SHOP AROUND ON BOTH
PRICE AND CONVENIENCE 4OREMAR ARE AT #ALATA )TALIA WWWTOREMAR ELBAIT -OBY ,INES AT 6IA .INCI WWW MOBYLINESIT ,EFT LUGGAGE !T THE BUS TERMINAL 6IALE %LBA 0OST OFlCE 0IAZZA (UTRE OFF 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUB BLICA
%ASTERN %LBA
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%ASTERN %LBA IS A DISTINCT GEOGRAPHICAL AREA COMPRISING TWO TONGUES OF LAND EACH DOMINATED BY MOUNTAIN RIDGES !WAY FROM THE MAIN SEASIDE CENTRES OF 2IO -ARINA AND 0ORTO !ZZURRO THE BEACHES ARE COMPARATIVELY QUIET BUT MUCH OF THE SOUTHERN ISTHMUS n -ONTE #ALAMITA n WAS THE HEART OF THE MINING INDUSTRY AND IS STILL OWNED BY THE QUARRYING COMPANIES #LOSE BY ON THE SOUTHERN COAST ,ACONA BOASTS ONE OF THE ISLANDS MAIN CONCENTRATIONS OF CAMPSITES "ARBAROS SA IS ANOTHER POPULAR CAMPING SPOT WITH SOME PARTICULARLY lNE BEACHES
5 "EACH ON THE ISLAND OF %LBA
0ORTOFERRAIO TO 2IO NELL%LBA
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(EADING OUT OF 0ORTOFERRAIO THE MAIN ROAD SOUTH DIVIDES ONE SPUR GOING WEST THE OTHER EAST TOWARDS 0ORTO !ZZURRO !LONG THE LATTER lRST STOP IS THE SPA OF 3!. ')/6!..) WHERE VISITORS PAY THROUGH THE NOSE FOR THE PRIVILEGE OF WALLOWING IN SULPHUROUS MARINE MUD ! FEW KILOMETRES ON AT ,% '2/44% ARE THE RUINS OF A 2OMAN VILLA LITTLE MORE THAN A FEW STONES AND MOSAIC FRAG MENTS AMONG THE GORSE BUT WORTH A STOP FOR A GREAT VIEW OVER THE SEA INTO WHICH MOST OF THE BUILDING HAS TUMBLED 3OON AFTER COMES A LEFT TURN FOR 2IO NELL%LBA AND -!'!:).) A LITTLE PLACE WITH A SAND AND SHINGLE BEACH AND A COUPLE OF HOTELS THE THREE STAR -ARE WWWHOTELMAREORG !PRILn/CT AND TWO STAR 4IRRENA ANSELMIS ELBALINKIT *UST BEYOND AT /44/.% IS THE ONE STAR 6ILLA 'AIA AND THE 2OSSELBA LE 0ALME CAMP SITE WWWROSSELBALEPALMEIT MID !PRIL TO 3EPT RATED BY MANY THE ISLANDS BEST 7EST FACING "!'.!)! A LITTLE FURTHER IS FAMOUS FOR ITS SUNSETS 4HERE ARE TWO HOTELS HERE THE 0UNTA 0INA LUK ELBAIT AND ,A &ELUCA WWWHOTELLAFELUCA IT PLUS A MINIMARKET AND THE +IKUTY BAR 4HE ROUTE FROM -AGAZINI TO 2IO NELL%LBA PASSES THE OLD CASTLE AT 6OLTERRAIO ONCE THE STRONGEST IN %LBA AND NOW A SILENT AND EVOCATIVE RUIN WITH A GREAT VIEW OVER ITS DESOLATE SURROUNDINGS )TS A STIFF CLIMB FROM THE ROAD &OLLOWING THE TWISTING COAST ROAD NORTH OF "AGNAIA YOULL COME TO THE TINY TWIN HAMLETS OF .)30/24/ AND .)30/24)./ MARKING THE BEGINNING OF THE MOST UNSPOILT BEACHES AND COASTLINE ON %LBAS NORTH SHORE 9OU CAN WALK INTO THE HILLS BEHIND OR TAKE BOATS OUT TO THE BEACHES BEYOND THE END OF THE ROAD 4HE ONLY ACCOMMODATION HERE IS #AMPING 6ILLAGGIO 3OLE E -ARE AT .ISPORTO WWWSOLEEMAREIT OR THE NEIGHBOURING CAMPSITE #ALA DI .ISPORTINO -AYn3EPT &ROM .ISPORTO THE NARROW SCENIC ROAD TO 2IO NELL%LBA CLIMBS THROUGH ,! ').%342! KM FROM THE SEA WHERE YOULL lND THE THREE STAR ,A 'INESTRA 2)/ .%,,%,"! ITSELF IS A GRACELESS PLACE THOUGH OLD ENOUGH IN PARTS AND RARE IN HAVING APPARENTLY RESISTED %LBAS TOURIST BOOM &ROM ITS HIGH VANTAGE IT SURVEYS A WILD AND BEAUTIFUL COUNTRYSIDE WITH GOOD SEA VIEWS 4HE TOWN WAS ONCE THE CAPITAL OF %LBA AND CENTRE OF THE MINING DISTRICT EVIDENCE OF WHICH CAN BE FOUND IN THE TINY -USEO DEI -INERALI %LBANI SUMMER AMnPM nPM + 4HERES NOWHERE TO STAY BUT A COUPLE OF INEXPENSIVE PLACES TO EAT $A #IPOLLA IN 0IAZZA DEL 0OPOLO AND 2ISTORANTE #ARPE $IEM IN 6IA 3 'ALLETTI (ALFWAY BETWEEN 2IO NELL%LBA AND #AVO IS THE %REMO DI 3ANTA #ATERINA AND THE /RTO DEI 3EMPLICI %LBANO 4UESn3UN nPM A BOTANICAL GARDEN OF WILD mOWERS FROM ALL OVER THE 4USCAN ARCHIPELAGO #AVO AND 2IO -ARINA
#!6/ ON THE NORTHERN EXTREMITY OF %LBA IS A SMALL BEACH RESORT WITH LITTLE ON OFFER BAR A HYDROFOIL LINK WITH 0ORTOFERRAIO 4HERE ARE SEVERAL HOTELS INCLUD ING THE WATERFRONT -ARISTELLA AND THE PLEASANT MID PRICED RESTAURANT ,A 3COGLIERA WITH TABLES OVERLOOKING THE BEACH 4HE MAIN TOWN ON %LBAS EAST COAST IS 2)/ -!2).! KM SOUTH OF #AVO A FERRY TERMINAL FOR CONNECTIONS TO 0IOMBINO 0ORTOFERRAIO AND 0ORTO !ZZURRO 4OURISM AND A BUSY HARBOUR HAVE REPLACED IRON ORE AS THE SOURCE OF REVENUE BUT THIS ISNT ONE OF THE BETTER %LBAN TOWNS 4HERES JUST ONE HOTEL THE 2IO AT 6IA 0ALESTRO WWWHOTELRIOMARINAIT !PRILn/CT NEXT TO THE SMALL PUBLIC GARDENS OVERLOOKING THE PORT #LOSE BY IS ONE OF THE ISLANDS
BEST RESTAURANTS ,A #ANOCCHIA 6IA 0ALESTRO CLOSED -ON IN WINTER /THER OPTIONS IN THE LOWER PORT INCLUDE A MODERATELY PRICED lSH RESTAURANT AND PIZ ZERIA $A /RESTE LA 3TREGA IN 0IAZZA 6 %MANUELE CLOSED 4UES IN WINTER 3OUTH OF HERE THE HAMLET OF /24!./ IS DOMINATED BY A BIG TOURIST COM PLEX BUT HAS A PUBLIC BEACH TOO WITH THE CAMPSITE #ANAPAI -AYn3EPT AND HOTEL %ASYTIME 6IA 0AN 0ORTICCIOLO EASYTIME TISCALINETIT 0ORTO !ZZURRO
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4HE RESORT OF 0/24/ !::522/ WAS HEAVILY FORTIlED BY 0HILIP ))) OF 3PAIN IN AS PROTECTION AGAINST CONTINUAL RAIDS BY THE &RENCH AND THE !US TRIANS TODAY HIS FORTRESS IS THE ISLANDS PRISON BUT YOU CAN WALK AROUND THE WALLS AND ADMIRE THE INMATES ARTWORK AT A SMALL CRAFT SHOP 4HE TOWNS SMALL PRETTY OLD QUARTER CLOSED TO TRAFlC CENTRES ON 6IA D!LARCON A BUSTLE OF BARS SHOPS AND RESTAURANTS WITH TRADITIONAL OPEN FRONT SHOPS AND BALCONIED HOUSES IN THE COBBLED AREA NEAR 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI 4HE BEST PLACE TO SWIM IS FROM THE ROCKS EAST OF THE HARBOUR "OAT TRIPS AROUND + FOR HR RUN SOUTH ALONG THE COAST TWICE DAILY IN SUMMER (OBBY -OTOR 6IALE )TALIA AND 47. AT THE FERRY TERMINAL RENTS MOPEDS AND BIKES !CCOMMODATION IS LIMITED AND LACKLUSTRE GO FOR THE "ELMARE "ANCHINA )6 .OVEMBRE BELMARE ELBALINKIT !RRIGHI 6IA 6 6ENETO CLOSED &EB OR 6ILLA )TALIA 6IALE )TALIA VILLAITALIA INFOELBAIT "EST OF THE CAMPSITES ARE AT THE SMALL NEARBY RESORT OF "!2"!2/33! n $A -ARIO MID !PRIL TO MID /CT AND !RRIGHI !PRILn.OV "OTH GIVE STRAIGHT ONTO THE BEACH NEAR THE ONE STAR HOTEL "ARBAROSSA &OR FOOD THERE ARE PLENTY OF IDENTIKIT JOINTS ON 0ORTO !ZZURROS WATERFRONT BETTER VALUE OPTIONS IN THE BACK STREETS INCLUDE )L 3OTTOSCALA 6IA 2ICASOLI 4AVERNA ,O 3COGLIO 6IA #AVOUR AND /STERIA DEI 1UATTRO 'ATTI 0IAZZA DEL -ERCATO n ALL WITH INEXPENSIVE TO MODERATELY PRICED MENUS /FF THE 2IO -ARINA ROAD TO THE NORTH AT 4%22!.%2% THERES A BIZARRE SULPHUROUS POND ITS HALF STAGNANT WATERS A VIOLENT YELLOW CONTRAST TO THE SEA THE BEACH HERE IS SCATTERED WITH MINE DEBRIS .EARBY UP AN UNSIGNPOSTED LEFT TURN OFF THE SAME ROAD IS THE 3ANTUARIO DELLA -ADONNA DI -ONSERRATO ABOUT KM BEYOND THE SO CALLED 0ICCOLO -INIERA A TOURIST TRAP MINE RECONSTRUCTION 4HE SHORT WALK AT THE END OF THE ROAD BRINGS YOU TO THE CHURCH WHOSE CHIEF CLAIM TO FAME IS ITS REPLICA OF THE "LACK -ADONNA OF -ONTSERRAT CHAPEL AND -ADONNA WERE BOTH COMMISSIONED IN BY THE ISLANDS 3PANISH GOVERNOR WHO CLAIMED THIS SITE REMINDED HIM OF THE HOLY MOUNTAIN OUTSIDE HIS NATIVE "ARCELONA .AREGNO
%AST OF THE ROAD BETWEEN 0ORTO !ZZURRO AND #APOLIVERI .!2%'./ IS A SMALL RESORT WITH A GOOD BEACH THOUGH NOT AS GOOD AS THE LESS ACCESSIBLE SAND TO THE SOUTH AT #ÙTE 0IANE ,ISCOLINO AND "UZZANCONE .ONE CAN MATCH THE VILLAGES ACCOMMODATION POSSIBILITIES HOWEVER WHICH INCLUDE THE SEAFRONT 6ILLA 2ODRIGUEZ WWWVILLARODRIGUEZIT THE ROOM &RANKS (OTEL WWWFRANKSHOTELCOM AND ,A 6OCE DEL -ARE #APOLIVERI AND SOUTH
#!0/,)6%2) KM SOUTH OF 0ORTO !ZZURRO IS THE BEST OF THE TOWNS IN EAST ERN %LBA A PROSPEROUS CENTRE WHOSE CLOSE KNIT STREETS HAVE MADE FEW CONCESSIONS
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TO TOURISM /CCUPYING A NATURALLY FORTIlED SPOT ITS AMONGST THE OLDEST SETTLE MENTS ON THE ISLAND IN 2OMAN TIMES ITS NAME WAS #APUT ,IBERI )TS HINTERLAND REMAINS UNDEVELOPED AS THE MINING COMPANIES HAVE NOT YET SOLD THEIR DISUSED PLOTS TO THE HOTELIERS n THOUGH MUCH OF THE AREA IS THUS OUT OF BOUNDS 4HERES NOTHING SPECIlC TO SEE BUT OLD STREETS SUCH AS 6IA 2OMA 6IA #AVOUR AND 6ICOLO ,UNGO ARE PLEASANT PLACES TO ROAM AND THERE ARE NUMEROUS HALF HIDDEN BARS IN THE ALLEYWAYS AS WELL AS A SPRAWL OF OUTSIDE TABLES IN THE CENTRAL PIAZZA 4HE TOWN IS AT ITS BUSIEST ON 4HURSDAYS WHEN LOCALS AND TOURISTS mOOD IN FOR THE WEEKLY STREET MARKET IT IS ALSO VERY LIVELY IN THE EVENINGS WITH A REPUTATION FOR BEING THE PLACE TO GO FOR A NIGHT OUT #APOLIVERI MAKES AN IDEAL BASE FOR VISITS TO THE lNE BEACHES AT .AREGNO -ORCONE AND )NNAMORATA (OWEVER ITS PRACTICALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO STAY CHEAPLY IT ONLY HAS EXPENSIVE APARTMENTS RENTED OUT BY NUMEROUS PRIVATE AGEN CIES SUCH AS !GENZIA DELLA ,UCIA WWWAGENZIACAPOLIVERICOM 6IA -ELLINE -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM -ODERATE TO EXPENSIVE RESTAURANTS INCLUDE )L #HIASSO 6ICOLO 3AURO CLOSED 4UES SPECIALIZING IN SEAFOOD /STERIA 3UMMERTIME 6IA 2OMA AND 0ORTO &RANCO IN 6IA DA "RESCIA OFF THE MAIN PIAZZA 4O SAMPLE LOCAL WINES MAKE FOR %NOTECA &ANDANGO 6IA #ARDENTI OR $A 'RAZIANO 6IA 0IETRA 'ORI AND FOR DELICIOUS HOMEMADE ICE CREAM DROP IN AT 0ATELLI 'ELATERIA 6IA 2OMA #APOLIVERI BRIMS WITH NIGHTLIFE WELL INTO THE SMALL HOURS /PHIR DISCO KM AWAY AT ,A 4RAPPOLA IS THE PRIME DANCING SPOT WITH 3UGAR 2EEF WWWSUGAR REEFCOM A FRIENDLY LATE NIGHT JAZZ BAR JUST BELOW IT 3OUTH OF #APOLIVERI
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4HE MUCH TOUTED LOCAL CHURCH AT -ADONNA DELLE 'RAZIE n ANOTHER PLACE OF PILGRIMAGE n HAS A SCHOOL OF 2APHAEL ALTARPIECE BUT IS OTHERWISE MORE OR LESS A WASTE OF TIME AS IS THE OVERBUILT AREA AROUND )TS BETTER TO CONTINUE TO THE TRIO OF RESORTS AT -/2#/.% 0!2%4) AND )..!-/2!4! 4HE LAST IS THE QUIETEST AND HAS A lNE SAND AND SHINGLE BEACH THE OTHER HAMLETS HAVE LARGE BEACHES -ORCONES BEING MORE REGIMENTED THAN ITS NEIGHBOUR 0ARKING IS DIF lCULT AS IS ACCOMMODATION -ORCONE HAS NO HOTELS THOUGH THERE ARE SOME ROOMS TO RENT AND 2ESIDENCE LA 3COGLIERA WILL PUT PEOPLE UP ON A NIGHTLY BASIS IN MINI APARTMENTS 0ARETI HAS THE 0ENSIONE 6ILLA -IRA MARE WWWHOTELVILLAMIRAMAREIT $INO WWWHOTELDINOCOM AND 3TELLA -ARIS WWW ALBERGOSTELLAMARISCOM 4HERES NOWHERE TO STAY IN )NNAMORATA EXCEPT A TOURIST VILLAGE BUT ITS WORTH VISITING FOR ITS TWO RESTAURANTS #ONTE $OMINGO AND 3PAGHET TERIA0IZZERIA )NNAMORATA WITH TERRACES OVERLOOKING THE SEA n PERFECT FOR SUNSETS 2OADS CONTINUE SOUTH INTO THE HILLS OF -ONTE #ALÉMITA AND TO THE STRETCH OF UNSPOILT COAST KNOWN AS THE #OSTA DEI 'ABBIANI BOTH AREAS WITH MINE RESTRICTED ACCESS 4HE AREAS NAME h#ALAMITYv IS A PUN REFERRING TO THE MAGNET IC PROPERTIES OF THE ROCKS WHICH ALLEGEDLY ATTRACT BOATS TOWARDS THEM CALAMITA WITHOUT THE ACCENT MEANS hMAGNETv ,ACONA
,!#/.! WELL ROUND THE COAST WEST OF 0ORTO !ZZURRO IS ONE OF THE ISLANDS MAIN CAMPING CENTRES AND ITS mAT FORESHORE IS CROWDED WITH BARS AND CLUBS DESIGNED TO CATER TO THE BEACH CROWD ONCE THE SUNS GONE DOWN 4HE CAMP SITES TO HEAD FOR ARE )L ,ACONA OR THE NEARBY ,ACONA 0INETA WWWCAMPINGLACONAPINETACOM BOTH SET IN THE PINE WOODS ON THE EASTERN ARM OF THE 'OLFO DI ,ACONA 3TELLA -ARE WWWSTELLAMAREIT WHICH OFFERS FREE BIKE RENTAL AS WELL AS WINDSURlNG
LESSONS IS ON THE BEACH A BIT FARTHER OUT ALONG THE HEADLAND ALSO AMIDST PLENTY OF GREENERY 4HE BEST VALUE HOTEL IS 0ENSIONE 'IARDINO HOTELGIARDINO ELBALINKIT
7ESTERN %LBA
³NFOLA 6ITICCIO 3CAGLIERI AND "IODOLA
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&OR A SPREAD OF BEACH AND A CHOICE OF CAMPSITES NEAR 0ORTOFERRAIO FOLLOW THE SCENIC ROAD BELOW -ONTE 0OPPE TO THE HEADLAND AT #APO D³NFOLA 9OU PASS THROUGH THE HAMLETS OF 3ORGENTE AND 0UNTA !CQUAVIVA EACH WITH A CAMP SITE BEFORE REACHING ³.&/,! WHERE THE LAND NARROWS TO A METRE WIDE ISTHMUS WITH BEACHES ON BOTH SIDES 4HE ROAD ENDS AT A SMALL CAR PARK NEXT TO THE "AR %MANUEL CLOSED WINTER WHERE YOU CAN GET DOWN TO EITHER STRIP OF PEBBLY BEACH 4HE ONE DAILY BUS FROM 0ORTOFERRAIO WILL DROP YOU OFF AT "IVIO %NFOLA n KM FROM THE BAR n AND CONTINUE TO 6)4)##)/ ANOTHER SPOT WITH A DEAD END ROAD PARKING AREA AND SAND AND SHINGLE BEACH 0ICK OF THE NUMER OUS HOTELS IN THE AREA ARE THE THREE STAR 0ARADISO AT 6ITICCIO PARADISO ELBATURISTICAIT ALL THE ROOMS OF WHICH HAVE SEA VIEWS AND THE TWO STAR 3COGLIO "IANCO WWWSCOGLIOBIANCIIT ³NFOLA HAS A SHADY CAMPSITE ³NFOLA #AMPING WWWCAMPINGENFOLA IT !PRIL TO MID /CT 4HE POPULAR 3ANSONE BEACH IS OFF THE MAIN ROAD FROM 0ORTOFERRAIO ON THE RIGHT TAKE THE TRACK M BEFORE 2ISTORANTE 4RE #OLONNE OR ASK THE BUS DRIVER TO STOP &ROM 6ITICCIO A FOOTPATH RUNS KM ROUND THE COAST TO 3CAGLIERI AND "IODOLA OTHERWISE REACHED BY A SIDE ROAD FROM THE MAIN HIGHWAY OUT OF 0ORTOFERRAIO ")/$/,! CONSISTS SIMPLY OF A ROAD TWO BIG HOTELS AND A SUPERB BEACH WHICH INEVITABLY GETS A SUMMER BLITZ OF VISITORS 0ARKING IS DIFlCULT BUT THERE ARE NO BUSES "IODOLAS TWO HOTELS ARE VERY EXPENSIVE THOUGH THERES A BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED PLACE TWO MINUTES FROM THE BEACH THE #ASA 2OSA CASAROSA ELBALINKIT 3#!',)%2) IS SIMILAR BUT A TOUCH LIVELIER AND MORE PICTURESQUE FRONTED BY A SHOP TWO BARS AND A COUPLE OF MODERATELY PRICED PLACES TO EAT ) DUE 0INI IS THE BETTER OF THE TWO 9OU CAN STAY AT THE !LBERGO 2ISTORANTE $ANILA WWWHOTELDANILAIT OR THE CAMPSITE 3CAGLIERI WWWCAMPINGSCAGLIERIIT !PRIL TO MID /CT ON THE HILLSIDE
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7ESTERN %LBAS ROAD SYSTEM ALLOWS FOR A CIRCULAR TOUR OF THE AREA BUT MANY PEOPLE MAKE IMMEDIATELY FOR SPECIlC TARGETS n USUALLY -ARINA DI #AMPO WITH ITS HUGE BEACH AND MANY HOTELS 5PMARKET ALTERNATIVES ARE OFFERED BY THE NORTH COAST RESORTS OF 0ROCCHIO AND -ARCIANA -ARINA WHILE BACKPACKERS FAVOUR THE RELATIVELY LESS COMMERCIALIZED ³NFOLA AREA &EWER VISITORS VENTURE INLAND TO -ARCIANA ONE OF %LBAS MOST ATTRACTIVE VIL LAGES OR EXPLORE THE LONG SWEEP OF THE WESTERN COAST WHOSE HAMLETS AND BEACHES ARE AMONGST THE ISLANDS MOST TRANQUIL 4HOUGH THE WESTERN ZONE TENDS TO BE ROCKIER THAN THE EAST ITS BETTER FOR WALKING THE HIGHLIGHTS BEING -ONTE #APANNE AND ITS SURROUNDING RIDGES
0ROCCHIO
02/##()/ SUFFERS FROM BEING AT A JUNCTION OF MAIN ROADS THE GREENERY OF ITS SURROUNDINGS OFFSET BY AN INCESSANT STREAM OF SUMMER TRAFlC 7ITH ITS SHOPS AND BARS ITS NOT A PLACE TO GET AWAY FROM IT ALL BUT THE SEA IS GOOD AND THE WHITE BEACH EXCELLENT ACCESS TO MUCH OF THE SAND IS FREE AND ITS LARGE ENOUGH NOT TO SEEM OVERCROWDED 0ICK OF THE HOTELS ARE $A 2ENZO
(OTEL DI 0ROCCHIO AND -ONNA ,ISA WWWHOTELMONNALISAIT ALONG WITH &ONTALLECCIO FONTALLECCIO ELBALINKIT AND %DERA HEDERA ELBALINKIT 2ESTAURANTS ALONG THE ROADSIDE STRIP ARE MUCH OF A MUCHNESS THE /RSO "IANCO DOES GOOD ICE CREAM 9OU CAN RENT BIKES AND MOPEDS FROM 2ENT 0ROCCHIO 6IA 0ROVINCIALE WWW RENTPROCCHIOIT
-ARCIANA -ARINA 0)3 ! 4(% # % .42!, # /!3 4 !.$ % , " !
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&ARTHER ROUND THE NORTH COAST -!2#)!.! -!2).! HAS THE MINOR DIS TINCTION OF BEING THE SMALLEST COMUNE IN 4USCANY A STATUS ITS PROUD OF ALLOWING ONLY A FEW HOTELS AND AIMING TO PRESERVE AN AIR OF RESIDENTIAL ORDER AWAY FROM THE SEAFRONT 4HE TRAFlC lLLED PROMENADE OF BARS RESTAURANTS AND TRINKET SHOPS DOES NOTHING TO LURE YOU INTO STAYING %VEN THE BEACH OVERLOOKED BY A 0ISAN WATCHTOWER IS SHINGLY AND FORGETTABLE !CCOMMODATION IS LARGELY RESTRICTED TO PRIVATE HOUSES AND APARTMENTS 0OGGIO
3ITUATED KM INLAND FROM -ARCIANA -ARINA 0/'')/ IS RENOWNED FOR ITS &ONTE DI .APOLEONE MINERAL WATER AND A TIGHT MEDIEVAL CENTRE WHOSE DECO RATED DOORWAYS AND PATCHWORK OF CHEERFUL GARDENS MAKE IT AN ATTRACTIVE PLACE TO STAY 4HE BEST HOTEL IS !LBERGO 2ISTORANTE -ONTE #APANNE 6IA 0INI IN A LOVELY PEACEFUL SETTING &OOD HERE IS GOOD AND THE VIL LAGE CLAIMS ONE OF THE ISLANDS LEADING RESTAURANTS 0UBLIUS 6IA 88 3ETTEMBRE n GREAT VIEWS AND CLASSIC %LBAN COOKING INCLUDING CACCIUCCO AND WILD BOAR WITH MUSHROOMS -ARCIANA
4HE HIGH AND ISOLATED VILLAGE OF -!2#)!.! THE OLDEST SETTLEMENT ON %LBA IS PERFECTLY PLACED BETWEEN GREAT BEACHES 0ROMONTE AND 3ANT!NDREA MOUN TAINOUS INTERIOR -ONTE #APANNE AND A MODERN CENTRE FOR SUPPLIES 0ROCCHIO )TS OLD QUARTER IS A DELIGHT TOO ITS NARROW ALLEYS ARCHES BELVEDERES AND STONE STAIRS FESTOONED WITH mOWERS AND CLIMBING PLANTS 4HERES VIRTUALLY NO TRAFlC OR COMMERCIAL DEVELOPMENT AND WITH THE SKELETAL OUTLINE OF ITS OLD FORTIlCATIONS IT FEELS VERY DISTINCT FROM THE REST OF THE ISLANDS TOWNS -ARCIANAS HISTORY IS ENCAPSULATED IN THE SMALL -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO IN 6IA DEL 0RETORIO CLOSED FOR RESTORATION JUST BELOW THE &ORTEZZA 0ISANA WHICH IS CLOSED TO THE PUBLIC BUT WORTH THE STEEP CLIMB THROUGH THE VILLAGE FOR ITS SPECTACULAR VIEWS /UTSIDE THE VILLAGE THERES A TRIO OF INTERESTING CHURCHES THE OLDEST OF WHICH IS THE TWELFTH CENTURY 0ISAN INmUENCED 3AN ,ORENZO NOW LARGELY IN RUINS ITS ON A TRACK OFF THE ROAD TO 0OGGIO -ORE INTRIGUING IS THE 3ANTUARIO DELLA -ADONNA DEL -ONTE ABOUT HALF AN HOURS WALK ALONG THE ROAD CURVING UPHILL WEST OF THE VILLAGE 4HOUGH IT DATES FROM THE ELEVENTH CENTURY n AND WAS PROB ABLY A PAGAN TEMPLE WELL BEFORE THAT n ITS APPEARANCE IS LARGELY SIXTEENTH CEN TURY THE 2ENAISSANCE CHURCH SERVING TO HOUSE A STONE PAINTED BY A HEAVENLY HAND WITH THE IMAGE OF THE 6IRGIN 4HE ISLANDS MOST IMPORTANT SHRINE ITS ALSO FEATURED ON THE .APOLEONIC TRAIL AS THE EX EMPEROR CAME HERE TO SEEK SPIRITUAL SOLACE FROM THE MONKS BY ALL ACCOUNTS HE RECEIVED SOLACE OF A DIFFERENT KIND WHEN HE WAS JOINED BY HIS 0OLISH MISTRESS -ARIA 7ALEWSKA 4HE THIRD CHURCH THE 3ANTUARIO DI 3AN #ERBONE IS PASSED ON THE WALK TO -ONTE #APANNE TRAIL HR 4HE TRACK STARTS FROM THE SOUTHERN TIP OF THE VIL LAGE THE CHURCH APPEARING AFTER AN HOUR AT THE JUNCTION WITH TRAIL 3AN #ER
3ANT!NDREA AND AROUND
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4HE DISPERSED VILLAGE OF 3!.4!.$2%! KM WEST OF -ARCIANA JUST OFF THE COAST ROAD IS ONE OF %LBAS MORE FASHIONABLE RETREATS WITH VILLAS AND HOTELS CREEPING FARTHER INTO THE WOODED HINTERLAND EACH YEAR )TS POPULAR WITH DIVERS DRAWN HERE BY WHAT IS REPUTEDLY SOME OF THE CLEAREST SEA WATER AROUND %LBA !CCOMMODATION IS AT A PREMIUM BUT ITS NOT NECESSARILY EXPENSIVE AND MOST IS DISCREETLY SET AMID ALMOST TROPICAL VEGETATION /N THE BEACH ITSELF THERES THE SMALL "AMBU THE PLEASANT ,A #ERNIA WWWHOTELCERNIAIT LIES MIDWAY BETWEEN THE COAST AND THE MAIN ROAD OR TRY ,/LEANDRO 0ICCOLA 0INETA PICCOLAPINETA ELBALINKIT OR "ELLA 6ISTA WWW HOTEL BELLAVISTAIT 4HERE ARE PLENTY OF RENTAL APARTMENTS )MMEDIATELY SOUTH ARE THE LINKED HAMLETS OF 0!42%3) -/24!)/ AND ,! '5!2$)! RATED AS HAVING THE ISLANDS lNEST SEAS AND STILL FAIRLY UNSPOILT INTO THE BARGAIN #LIFFS DROP TO THE SEA AS THEY DO ALL ROUND THIS SECTION OF COAST WITH PLENTY OF ROCK PILLARS AND STACKS FOR UNDERWATER ENTHUSIASTS -OST LOCAL ACCOMMODATION IS IN APARTMENTS THOUGH THERE ARE TWO HOTELS THE ELEVEN ROOM 6ILLA 2ITA VILLARITA ELBASUNCOM AND TWO STAR "ELMARE WWWHOTELBELMAREIT AT 0ATRESI &OR INEXPENSIVE PIZZA AND FULL MEALS TRY )L &ARO ON THE ROAD NEAR 0ATRESI WITH A VERANDA AND SEA VIEW
0)3 ! 4(% # % .42!, # /!3 4 !.$ % , " ! %LBA
BONE WAS BURIED HERE DURING A MIRACULOUS CLOUDBURST THAT HID THE CEREMONY FROM ,OMBARDS WHO HAD THE SAINTS VALUABLE REMAINS IN THEIR SIGHTS )F YOU DONT WANT TO WALK UP -ONTE #APANNE THERES A POPULAR CABLE CAR KM SOUTH OF THE TOWN WHICH TAKES YOU TO THE TOP *UNEn3EPT AMnPM nPM /CTn-AY AMnPM nPM + RETURN MOST PEOPLE CHOOSE TO WALK DOWN EITHER TO -ARCIANA OR 0OGGIO THOUGH IF YOURE TREKKING WITH YOUR GEAR YOU COULD DROP DOWN TO THE COAST VIA ONE OF THE NUMEROUS MARKED TRAILS -ARCIANAS ONLY DRAWBACK IS ITS SHORTAGE OF ACCOMMODATION RESTRICTED TO RENTED ROOMS AND APARTMENTS AVAILABLE THROUGH THE "IRRERIA ,A 0ORTA 0IAZZA &UOR DI 0ORTA CLOSED 7ED WHICH SERVES GOOD SANDWICHES AND SALADS OTHER DECENT PLACES TO EAT ARE THE REASONABLY PRICED /STERIA DEL .OCE 6IA DELLA -ADONNA LUNCH ONLY OR THE %NOTECA -ANILLI AT THE FORTRESS WHICH SERVES SANDWICHES PIZZA AND A SELECTION OF WINES UNTIL AM
4HE SOUTHWEST COAST #HIESSI TO #AVOLI
&URTHER ROUND THE COAST ROAD #()%33) AND 0/-/.4% EACH HAVE A SMALL STONY BEACH BEAUTIFULLY CLEAR WATER ROCKY HINTERLAND AND LITTLE COMMERCIALISM "Y THE TIME YOU REACH &%4/6!)! YOURE BACK TO BEACH DEVELOPMENT BUT THE SAND IS SUPERB &ETOVAIA HAS LOTS OF APARTMENT ACCOMMODATION AND SEVERAL TOP WHACK HOTELS TRY THE CENTRAL ,O 3CIROCCO SCIROCCO FETOVAIA IT THE 0ENSIONE -ONTEMERLO OUT OF TOWN ON THE HILL !NNA ANNA FETOVAIAIT OR $A !LMA &URTHER ON 3%##(%4/ IS GOOD FOR A SWIM FROM THE ROCKS AT THE WESTERN END OF TOWN OR FOR TANNING ON THE LARGELY NUDIST STRETCH BEYOND n LE PISCINE n WHERE THE WATER FORMS DEEP POOLS IN THE HOLLOWS OF A 2OMAN GRANITE MINE 4WO HOTELS ARE ,A 3TELLA LASTELLA ELBALINKIT AT THE END OF THE ROAD TO THE SEA AND THE NEARBY $A &INE WWW HOTELDAlNEIT ! CHEAPER OPTION AWAY FROM THE COAST IS ,OCANDA DELL!MICIZIA SET IN A PEACEFUL SPOT AT 6ALLEBUIA IN THE
LITTLE VALLEY NORTH OF 3ECCHETO 4HE BAR ON THE MAIN ROAD WHICH CAN SOMETIMES DIRECT YOU TO AVAILABLE APARTMENTS IS POPULAR FAIRLY CHEAP AND DOES EXCELLENT PIZZAS .EARBY #!6/,) IS MORE UPMARKET THOUGH THE BEACH IS GOOD IF CROWDED )T HAS TWO SIMILAR BEACHSIDE PENSIONI THE ,ORENZA LORENZ TIN IT AND #ONCHIGLIA -ARINA DI #AMPO 0)3 ! 4(% # % .42!, # /!3 4 !.$ % , " !
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3ET IN ONE OF THE ISLANDS FEW AREAS OF PLAIN -!2).! $) #!-0/ WAS THE lRST AND IS NOW THE LARGEST RESORT ON %LBA 4HE HUGE WHITE BEACH IS WHAT MAKES THE PLACE POPULAR THE WATERS CLEAN AND THERES SPACE ON LAND IF YOU WALK TO THE EAST END OR OUT TO THE ROCKIER WEST 4HERES ALSO ALL THE TOURIST FRIPPERY AND NIGHTLIFE YOUD EXPECT IN ANY MAJOR SEASIDE CENTRE 0ICK OF THE NUMEROUS HOTELS ARE ,IDO 6IA -ASCAGNI HOTELLIDO TINIT 0ENSIONE %LBA 6IA -ASCAGNI WWWHOTEL ELBAIT 3ANTA #ATERINA 6IALE %LBA SANTACATERINA ELBALINKIT "ARRACUDA 6IALE %LBA BARRACUDA ELBALINKIT AND 4HOMAS 6IA 'IANNUTRI ELBATHOMASHOTEL INlNITOIT )F YOU ARRIVE EARLY IN THE DAY YOU MIGHT lND SPACE AT ONE OF THE THREE CAMPSITES 4HERE ARE PLENTY OF PLACES TO EAT THE 2OSTICCERIA -AZZARRI 6IA 2OMA HAS INEXPENSIVE MEALS AND CHEAP SNACKS FOR A FULL BLOWN lSH MEAL TRY THE MODERATELY PRICED !RAGOSTA OR 2ISTORANTE )L #ACCIUCCO IN 0IAZZA #AVOUR 9OU CAN RENT BIKES AND BOATS FROM "IKOS 6IA $ONIZETTI &OR A BREAK FROM THE CROWDS YOU MIGHT TAKE A BUS TRIP OUT TO TWO SMALLER HILL VILLAGES CLOSE BY n THE VERY PRETTY 3!.4),!2)/ ). #!-0/ AND 3!. 0)%2/ ). #!-0/ WHOSE PARISH CHURCH HAS A HOTCH POTCH OF FRESCOES
#APRAIA 4HE ISLAND OF #!02!)! KM NORTHWEST OF %LBA IS UNSPOILT WITH JUST A COUPLE OF HOTELS AND ONE ROAD THAT LINKS THE SMALL PORT TO THE OLD TOWN ON THE HILL )TS FORMER USE AS A PENAL COLONY ENSURED THAT THE TERRAIN REMAINED LARGELY UNTOUCHED AND NOW n DESPITE CONSIDERABLE PRESSURE FROM POTENTIAL HOTELIERS n THE LOCAL COUNCIL HAVE HELD BACK ON COMMERCIAL DEVELOPMENT INSTEAD PROMOT ING THE ISLANDS STATUS AS A 0ARCO .AZIONALE TO PROTECT THE NATURAL HERITAGE 4HIS MAKES IT DIFlCULT TO VISIT AND THE TWO HOTELS AND SINGLE CAMPSITE COME CLOSE TO SATURATION POINT IN SUMMER ITS BEST TO COME SLIGHTLY OUT OF SEASON ! FERRY RUNS DAILY FROM ,IVORNO THROUGHOUT THE YEAR SUMMER 4HURS 3AT TWICE DAILY #APRAIA )SOLA
&ROM THE TINY HARBOUR TO THE TOWN OF #!02!)! )3/,! n THE ONLY INHABITED PART OF THE ISLAND EXCEPT THE PORT n IS A GENTLE WALK OF ABOUT KM THERES A REGU LAR BUS IN SUMMER 4HE ISLANDS LONG PERIODS OF DESOLATION MAINLY BECAUSE OF PIRATE RAIDS HAVE DONE LITTLE FOR ITS MONUMENTS #APRAIA )SOLAS "AROQUE CHURCH AND CONVENT OF 3ANT!NTONIO IS LARGELY RUINED AND THE BIG CASTLE THE PRIVATELY OWNED &ORTEZZA DI 3AN 'IORGIO HAS SEEN BETTER DAYS &OR INFORMATION ON WILDLIFE WALKING ACCOMMODATION AND BOAT TRIPS CONTACT THE #OOPERATIVA 0ARCO AGPARCO TINIT OR THE TOURIST OFlCE !PRILn3EPT AMnPM BOTH ON THE HARBOURFRONT 6IA !SSUNZIONE
(OTELS INCLUDE THE THREE STAR $A "EPPONE 6IA !SSUNZIONE AND IN THE UPPER PART OF TOWN FOUR STAR )L 3ARACINO 6IA , #IBO YOULL PROBABLY HAVE TO PAY
4HE INTERIOR AND THE BEACHES
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4HE SCRUBBY ALMOST TREELESS ISLAND HAS A KNOBBLY SPINE OF M HILLS WITH THE EASTERN SLOPE SHALLOW AND RIVEN WITH VALLEYS AND THE WESTERN COAST FEATURING CLIFFS RISING ALMOST SHEER FROM THE SEA &ROM #APRAIA )SOLA YOU CAN EASILY STRIKE OFF INTO THE UNINHABITED INTERIOR TRACKS CRISSCROSS THE WHOLE ISLAND BUT THERE ARE FOUR DISTINCT AND FAIRLY OBVIOUS WALKS TO THE 4ORRE DELLO :ENOBITO A 'ENOESE WATCHTOWER ON THE ISLANDS SOUTHERNMOST TIP TO )L 0IANO AND THE 0ISAN CHURCH OF 3ANTO 3TEFANO USING THE ROUGH ROAD SOUTH OF THE TOWN TO THE LIGHTHOUSE ON THE WEST COAST FARTHER DOWN THE SAME TRACK AND TO THE ,AGHETTO A TARN IN THE HILLS )SOLATION HAS FAVOURED THE DEVELOPMENT OF VARIOUS INDIGENOUS ANIMAL AND VEG ETABLE SPECIES SEVERAL OF THEM SIMILAR TO SPECIES OTHERWISE CONlNED TO #ORSICA AND 3ARDINIA 4HESE INCLUDE SUBSPECIES OF BUZZARD SPARROW LARGE lNCH AND ,A -ARMORAS WARBLER AMONGST THE BIRDS AND CAMPION TOADmAX AND BLUE BUTTON AMONGST THE PLANTS "IRDS ARE THE MAIN NATURAL INTEREST WITH NUMEROUS ITINERANT VISITORS AND FORTY RESIDENT SPECIES INCLUDING PEREGRINES SHEARWATERS AND UP TO A HUNDRED PAIRS OF THE RARE #ORSICAN GULL 7INTER STORMS IN STRIPPED THE ISLANDS ONLY REAL BEACH THE #ALA DELLA -ORTOLA OF ALL ITS SAND (OWEVER THERE ARE PLENTY OF ROCKY COVES AND THE WATERS CLEAN AND CLEAR EVERYWHERE 4HERES A RANGE OF SMALL BOATS AVAILABLE FOR RENT FROM CANOES AROUND +HR TO POWERED RUBBER DINGHIES AROUND +DAY "OTH THE #OOPERATIVA 0ARCO AND !GENZIA $ELLA 2OSA RUN TRIPS ROUND THE ENTIRE ISLAND TWICE DAILY IN SEASON 4HERES A COUPLE OF SUBAQUA CLUBS BASED IN THE PORT CONTACT THE #APRAIA $IVING #LUB WWWCAPRAIADIVINGIT FOR HELP AND EQUIPMENT RENTAL
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AT LEAST HALF BOARD IN PEAK PERIODS 4HERE ARE NUMEROUS PRIVATE ROOMS AND APARTMENTS THE TOURIST OFlCE WILL CALL ROUND FOR YOU OR YOU CAN JUST WANDER THROUGH TOWN AND LOOK FOR THE SIGNS 4HERES A SINGLE CAMPSITE ,E 3UGHERE -AYn3EPT BEHIND THE SMALL CHURCH OF THE !SSUMPTION /NE OF THE BEST RESTAURANTS IS ,A 'ARITTA 6IA 'ENOVA UP NEAR THE CASTLE RUN AS A BAR DURING THE DAY ITS AN INFORMAL PLACE DEDICATED TO SIMPLE MODERATELY PRICED SEAFOOD 4HERE ARE A COUPLE OF OTHER INEXPENSIVE PLACES DOWN ON THE HARBOUR BEST OF WHICH IS $A "EPPONE
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MIN CHANGE FOR 6OLTERRA AND 3IENA &LORENCE HOURLY HR ,IVORNO EVERY MIN MIN ,UCCA HOURLY MIN 0ISA !IRPORT HOURLY AMnPM MIN 0ONTEDERA EVERY MIN MIN 3AN 2OS SORE EVERY MIN MIN
"USES #ÏCINA TO "IBBONA DAILY nMIN #AST AGNETO #ARDUCCI DAILY MIN ,IVORNO EVERY MIN HR 3ALINE DI 6OLTERRA DAILY MIN ,IVORNO TO #ASTIGLIONCELLO EVERY MIN MIN
#ECINA EVERY MIN HR 0IOMBINO DAILY HR MIN 0ISA HOURLY MIN 0IOMBINO TO #AMPIGLIA -ARÓTTIMA DAILY MIN $ONORATICO DAILY MIN 0OPULONIA DAILY MIN 3AN 6INCENZO DAILY MIN 3ASSETTA DAILY HR MIN 3UVERETO DAILY MIN 0ISA TO &LORENCE HOURLY VIA ,UCCA AND -ONTE
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IDYLLIC ISLAND OF 'IGLIO VISITED FROM THE !RGENTARIO AND THE AREA AROUND THE ,AZIO BORDER n BOTH ARE UNDERGOING SLOW COLONIZATION BY 2OMES BOURGEOISIE -ASSA -ARÓTTIMA IS THE AREAS MOST HISTORICALLY INTERESTING TOWN ITS MEDIEVAL CENTRE A lNE EXAMPLE OF 2OMANESQUE ARCHITECTURE 4HE COAST IS SERVED BY THE MAIN 2OMEn0ISA RAIL LINE AND THE OLD 2OMAN ROAD THE 6IA !URELIA 33 4O CUT ACROSS COUNTRY THERES A RAIL LINK FROM 'ROS SETO TO 3IENA AND A FEW BUSES THAT RUN INLAND FROM 'ROSSETO /RBETELLO AND -ASSA -ARÓTTIMA
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/NCE THE SECOND CITY OF THE 3IENESE 2EPUBLIC AND STILL GRACED WITH SOME OF 3IENAS CIVIC STYLE -!33! -!2·44)-! IS THE lNEST HISTORIC TOWN OF THE -AREMMA .AMED h-ASSAv BY THE 2OMANS n THEIR WORD FOR A LARGE COUNTRY ESTATE n IT GAINED ITS MARITIME SUFlX IN THE -IDDLE !GES WHEN IT BECAME THE PRE EMINENT TOWN OF THIS COASTAL REGION 4HE SEA HAS RECEDED SINCE THAT TIME AND IS NOW KM DISTANT ACROSS A SILT lLLED PLAIN SCARCELY VISIBLE FROM THE TOWNS HILLTOP -ASSA LIKE 6OLTERRA TO THE NORTH HAS LONG BEEN A MINING TOWN ITS SILVER COPPER AND OTHER MINERAL RESERVES GENERATING WEALTH SINCE .EOLITHIC TIMES $ESIGNATION AS A BISHOPRIC IN THE NINTH CENTURY n IN PLACE OF DECLINING 0OPU LONIA n GAVE IT ADDITIONAL IMPETUS LEADING TO THE FORMATION OF AN INDEPENDENT REPUBLIC IN )N IT PRODUCED %UROPES lRST CHARTER FOR THE PROTECTION OF MINERS THE #ODICE -INERAIO 3ADLY FOR -ASSA ITS MINERAL RICHES ATTRACTED THE
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RIVAL ATTENTIONS OF 0ISA AND 3IENA THE LATTER lNALLY ABSORBING THE TOWN IN 4HOSE HUNDRED YEARS OF GLORY HOWEVER FUNDED THE BUILDING OF ITS MONUMENTS n NOTABLY THE EXQUISITE $UOMO n AND SAW THE DOUBLING OF THE POPULATION A TREND REVERSED AFTER ABSORPTION INTO THE 'RAND $UCHY OF 4USCANY IN 3UB SEQUENT VISITATIONS OF PLAGUE AND MALARIA TOGETHER WITH A DOWNTURN IN MINING ACTIVITY LEFT -ASSA A VIRTUAL GHOST TOWN BY ITS POPULATION REDUCED TO JUST ,IKE OTHER -AREMMA TOWNS ITS RECOVERY ONLY BEGAN WITH THE REOPENING OF MINES AND THE DRAINING OF COASTAL MARSHES IN THE S -ASSAS OLDEST SPORTING EVENT THE "ALESTRO DEI 'IRIFALCO n A MEDIEVAL CROSS BOW COMPETITION BETWEEN THE TOWNS THREE CONTRADE n TAKES PLACE ON THE FOURTH 3UNDAY IN -ARCH AND THE SECOND 3UNDAY IN !UGUST 4HROUGH *ULY AND !UGUST THE 4OSCANA &OTO &ESTIVAL HAS HUNDREDS OF AWARD WINNING PHOTOS EXHIBITED IN DIFFERENT VENUES AROUND THE TOWN WWWTOSCANAFOTOFESTIVALIT
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\ -ASSA -ARÓTTIMA
! SMALL INDUSTRIAL ESTATE MARS THE APPROACH TO -ASSA AND BLOCKS OF NEW BUILD INGS DO LITTLE TO IMPROVE THE EFFECT !LL THIS IS OVERSHADOWED HOWEVER BY THE MEDIEVAL SPLENDOUR OF 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI IN THE LOWER MAINLY 2OMANESQUE #ITTÌ 6ECCHIA ITS A SMALL ECCENTRIC BUT EXQUISITE EXAMPLE OF 4USCAN TOWN PLANNING WITH THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY $UOMO SET ON BROAD STEPS AT A DRAMATI CALLY OBLIQUE ANGLE TO THE SQUARE 4HE UPPER TOWN #ITTÌ .UOVA IS MORE 'OTHIC IN APPEARANCE AND WAS BUILT LARGELY AS A RESIDENTIAL CENTRE !N IMMENSELY STEEP AND PICTURESQUE LANE 6IA -ON CINI CONNECTS THE TWO FOR MOST OF THE -IDDLE !GES THE LOWER TOWN WAS INHABITED BY A 0ISAN CLAN THE 4ODINI THE UPPER BY THEIR 3IENESE RIVALS THE 0ANNOCHIESCHI 4HE $UOMO
4HE $UOMO DAILY AMnNOON nPM IS ESSENTIALLY 0ISAN 2OMANESQUE WITH A FEW LATER ADDITIONS BLENDING HARMONIOUSLY WITH THE BLIND ARCHES AND TINY COLUMNS MOST NOTABLY THE EXTRAORDINARY 'OTHIC CAMPANILE ADDED IN ABOUT 4HE CATHEDRALS DEDICATION IS TO 3T #ERBONE THE "ISHOP OF 0OPULONIA IN THE SIXTH CENTURY !LTHOUGH FAMOUS FOR PERSUADING A mOCK OF GEESE TO FOLLOW HIM WHEN HE WAS SUMMONED TO 2OME ON HERESY CHARGES #ERBONE IS USUALLY DEPICTED WITH A BEAR LICKING HIS FEET A REFERENCE TO THE BEAST HE TAMED WHEN 4OTILA THE (UN THREW HIM INTO A PIT FULL OF WILD ANIMALS "AS RELIEFS IN THE ARCHITRAVE OF THE MAIN DOOR SHOW SCENES FROM THE SAINTS LIFE )NSIDE THE BARE STONE WALLS SET OFF SOME SUPERB CARVINGS AND WORKS OF ART 4HE MOST ADMIRED CARVINGS ARE THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY ONES BY 'IRALDO DA #OMO ON THE HUGE BAPTISTERY AND ALSO THE QUADRANGULAR FONT !LMOST AS ARRESTING ARE THE lFTEENTH CENTURY TABERNACLE UNDER THE MARBLE CANOPY OF THE BAPTISTERY AND SOME ELEVENTH CENTURY 2OMANESQUE CARVINGS CLOSE TO THE ENTRANCE FEATUR ING POWERFUL AND PRIMITIVE GRINNING FACES THAT ARE IN DRAMATIC CONTRAST WITH THE SEVERE POLISHED 2OMAN SARCOPHAGUS TO THEIR RIGHT /VER THE ALTAR IS A LARGE 'IOVANNI 0ISANO ALTARPIECE AND BEHIND IT THE !RCA DI 3AN #ERBONE AN ARCH OF BAS RELIEFS DEPICTING THE LIFE OF THE SAINT CARVED BY 'ORI DI 'REGORIO IN 4AKE A LOOK TOO AT THE -ADONNA DELLE 'RAZIE AT THE END OF THE LEFT TRANSEPT A DAMAGED BUT GORGEOUS 3IENESE WORK ATTRIBUTED TO $UCCIO OR 3IMONE -ARTINI &INALLY THE lNE LITTLE CRYPT HAS A SINGLE FRESCO FEATURING 3T #ERBONE AND 3T "ERNARDINO 4HE -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO
4HE SMALLER OF THE TWO PALACES ON 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI THE 0ALAZZO DEL 0ODESTÌ CONTAINS THE -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO 4UESn3UN !PRILn/CT AMnPM
nPM .OVn-ARCH AMnPM nPM + WHERE THE CHIEF EXHIBIT IS ONE OF THE lNEST ALTARPIECES IN 4USCANY A -AESTÌ PAINTED IN BY !MBRO GIO ,ORENZETTI 6IVID PINK GREEN AND TANGERINE ILLUMINATE THE lGURES OF &AITH (OPE AND #HARITY BELOW THE -ADONNA WHILE #ERBONE AND HIS GEESE LURK IN THE RIGHT HAND CORNER 4HE MUSEUM OTHERWISE HOUSES ONLY A HANDFUL OF MINOR PAINTINGS AND SOME LOCAL ARCHEOLOGICAL lNDS #ITTÌ .UOVA
)NEVITABLY GIVEN ITS MINING HERITAGE -ASSA BOASTS A -USEO DELLA -INIERA -INING -USEUM HOUSED IN AN UNDERGROUND AIR RAID SHELTER lVE MINUTES FROM 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI OFF 6IA #ORRIDONI GUIDED TOURS ONLY + 4HE MOCK UP MINE HAS M OF GALLERIES AND A CHRONOLOGICAL DISPLAY OF THE AREAS MINING METHODS AND EQUIPMENT
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4HE -USEO DELLA -INIERA
4(% - !2% - - ! -ASSA -ARÓTTIMA
4HE TOWN COUNCIL HAS ORGANIZED WHAT IT CALLS A hTOURIST ITINERARYv A SIGNPOSTED ROUTE THAT TAKES YOU TO SOME VERY DULL SPOTS 4HE BEST THING TO DO IS WANDER UP TO THE #ITTÌ .UOVA BY 6IA -ONCINI WHOSE TRIBUTARY ALLEYWAYS REVEAL SMALL GARDENS AND GOOD VIEWS !T THE END OF THE STREET YOU EMERGE BENEATH AN IMPRESSIVE BUT MILITARILY USELESS ARCH THE !RCO DEI 3ENESI INTO 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI mANKED BY A SEGMENT OF THE TOWN WALL AND THE 4ORRE DEL #ANDE LIERE WITH PANORAMIC VIEWS FROM THE TOP !PRILn/CT 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM .OVn-ARCH 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM + 4HERES ALSO A SMALL PARK IDEAL FOR A PICNIC OR SIESTA !CROSS THE PIAZZA STANDS THE -USEO DI !RTE E 3TORIA DELLE -INIERE !PRILn/CT 4UESn3UN nPM + WHICH HOUSES A PUNY COLLECTION OF FOSSILS MINING EQUIPMENT AND ARCHIVE PHOTOGRAPHS OF LOCAL HISTORY /THERWISE THE ONLY THINGS TO SEE UP HERE ARE THE CHURCH OF 3ANT!GOSTINO GRACED WITH SIMPLE CLOISTERS AND THE !NTICO &RANTOIO -ASSAS OLDEST OIL MILL IN 6IA 0OPULONIA !PRILn/CT 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM +
0RACTICALITIES )NTERTOWN BUSES FROM 3IENA 'ROSSETO AND ,ARDERELLO FOR 6OLTERRA AS WELL AS HOURLY BUSES FROM THE -ASSAn&OLLONICA TRAIN STATION KM WEST ON THE MAIN 0ISAn2OME LINE STOP ON 6IA #ORRIDONI CLOSE TO 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI GET OFF WHEN YOU SEE THE CAMPANILE OF THE $UOMO 4HE TOURIST OFlCE IS AT 6IA 4ODINI -ONn3AT AMn nPM ALSO OPEN 3UN !PRILn3EPT AMnPM PLUS nPM *UNEn3EPT WWWALTAMAREMMATURISMOIT AND HAS PLENTY OF INFORMATION ABOUT AGRITURISMI IN THE AREA -ASSAS -ONTEREGIO $/# WINE AND THE LOCAL 3TRADA DEL 6INO $ESPITE -ASSAS POPULARITY THERE ARE SURPRISINGLY FEW PLACES TO STAY 4HE TWO CENTRAL HOTELS ARE THE THREE STAR )L 3OLE 6IA DELLA ,IBERTÌ WWWILSOLEHOTELIT CLOSED *ANn &EB AND THE THREE STAR ,A &ENICE #ORSO $IAZ WWWLAFENICEPARKHOTELIT 4WO MOD ERN HOTELS LIE ON THE APPROACHES TO -ASSA THE PLEASANT THREE STAR $UCA DEL -ARE 0IAZZA $ANTE !LIGHIERI n WWWDUCADELMAREIT CLOSED MID *AN TO &EB AND THE TWO STAR 'IRIFALCO 6IA -ASSETANA .ORD WWWILGIRIFALCOCOM CLOSED MID .OV TO MID !PRIL 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI HAS SOME PLEASANT BARS THOUGH ITS RESTAURANTS ARE GEARED TOWARDS THE TOURIST TRADE 2ESTAURANT OPTIONS INCLUDE THE INEXPENSIVE AND EXCELLENT VALUE 4AVERNA DEL 6ECCHIO "ORGO 6IA 0ARENTI CLOSED -ON 3UN EVE THE 4RATTORIA DEI #AVALIERI CLOSED 4HURS WITH
MODERATE PRICES 4USCAN CUISINE AND A GARDEN ,E #ATENE 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI WHICH OFFERS A WONDERFUL VIEW OF THE $UOMO AND THE HIGHLY RECOMMENDED /STERIA DA 4RONCA 6ICOLO 0ORTE CLOSED 7ED OFFERING INEXPENSIVE OSTERIA STYLE FARE IN AN ATMOSPHERIC STONE WALL AND VAULTED CEILING SETTING "ARBABLU CLOSED 7ED UP ON 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI HAS EXCELLENT PIZZA GIALLA A PIZZA BASE SPRINKLED WITH SAFFRON SCAMORZA AND PARMESAN CHEESES AND ROCKET AND OUTSIDE TABLES
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3ITUATED KM EAST OF -ASSA 2/##!4%$%2)'() IS DIFlCULT TO lT INTO ANY LOGICAL ITINERARY BUT WITH TRANSPORT IS WELL WORTH THE TWENTY MINUTE JOURNEY 0ERCHED ON A NEEDLE OF ROCK THE VILLAGE HAS BEEN LITERALLY CARVED FROM STONE AND OFFERS ONE OF THE lNEST VIEWS OF THE -AREMMA 'IRD YOURSELF FOR THE HAUL UP ONE OF THE IMPOSSIBLY STEEP ALLEYS TO THE ROCK PILLARS THAT COMMAND THE AREA
\ &OLLØNICA AND SOUTHWARDS
&OLLØNICA AND SOUTHWARDS 4HE POPULAR DOWNMARKET RESORT OF &/,,¼.)#! WHICH HAS THE NEAREST TRAIN STATION TO -ASSA -ARÓTTIMA MARKS SOMETHING OF A WATERSHED ON THE -AREMMA COAST 4O THE NORTH THE mATLANDS DRAG UP TOWARDS #ÏCINA BUT TO THE SOUTH LIES A TRACT OF RELATIVELY UNSPOILT HILLY COUNTRYSIDE A LANDSCAPE SIMILAR TO THAT OF THE 4USCAN HEARTLAND 0ICK OF THE MIXED BAG OF SMALL RESORTS ALONG THIS STRETCH IS #ASTIGLIONE DELLA 0ESCAIA BEYOND WHICH LIES A MAGNIlCENT BELT OF CLASSIC -AREMMA PINE FOREST &OLLØNICA ITSELF IS A LARGE AND SCRUFFY TOWN ITS UNTIDY BEACH SPOILT BY HIGH RISE BUILDINGS AND AT THE FAR SOUTHERN END BY FACTORY OUTLET PIPES )TS VERY MUCH A FAMILY RESORT PACKED OUT IN SUMMER THE BIG COLOURFUL &RIDAY MARKET IS ABOUT THE ONLY REAL ATTRACTION 4HE TRAIN STATION IS AT THE TOP OF 6IA -ATTEOTTI WHICH LEADS STRAIGHT DOWN TO THE SEA )F YOURE PASSING THROUGH AND WANT AN HOURS SUN AND SEA AIM FOR THE BEST PART OF THE BEACH ALONG THE STANDS OF PINES TO THE SOUTH BEFORE THE PIPES FOLLOW THE MAIN ROAD FOR ABOUT KM FROM THE CENTRE THEN STRIKE OFF THROUGH THE TREES AT THE GARAGE ON THE LEFT YOULL SPOT CARS PARKED ON THE ROADSIDE 4HE TOURIST OFlCE IS AT 6IA 2OMA WWWGROSSETO TURISMOTOSCANAIT /F THE NUMEROUS HOTELS n MOST ON OR NEAR THE SEA FRONT n GOOD CHOICES ARE THE TWO STAR -IRAMARE ,UNGOMARE )TALIA !PRILn/CT AND /RCHIDEA 6IA )TALIA 4HERE ARE TWO SEAFRONT CAMPSITES 4AHITI 6IALE )TALIA WWWCAMPEGGIOTAHITIIT MID -AY TO 3EPT IS NOT AS NICELY SITUATED AS 0INETA DEL 'OLFO 6IA DELLE #OLLACHIE END !PRIL TO MID 3EPT AT THE SOUTHERN EDGE OF TOWN OFF THE MAIN 33 4HERE ARE PLENTY OF MODEST RES TAURANTS &OLLØNICAS lNEST GASTRONOMIC EXPERIENCE IS AT THE EXPENSIVE ,EONARDO #APELLI 0IAZZA 886 !PRILE CLOSED -ON
3CARLINO AND 4IRLI
3#!2,)./ IS INVITINGLY SITUATED ON A STEEP WOODED HILLSIDE KM EAST OF &OLLØNICA BEYOND A HUGE RED STRIPED CHIMNEY THAT DOES ITS BEST TO WRECK THE VIEW 4HE MEDIEVAL VILLAGE IS ATTRACTIVE IF UNEXCEPTIONAL WHILE THE HILLS BEHIND ARE DOTTED WITH FRAGMENTS OF CASTLES AND MONASTERIES )T HAS A VERY FRIENDLY RES TAURANT PIZZERIA ,A 6ECCHIA ,OCANDA 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI WWW VECCHIALOCANDAIT CLOSED 7ED SPECIALIZING IN MUSHROOMS AND TRUFmES
&ARTHER SOUTH BY MINOR ROADS THROUGH THE HILLS IS 4)2,) WHERE n AS IN OTHER LOCAL VILLAGES n THEY VENERATE THE HERMIT 3T 'UGLIELMO RENOWNED FOR SLAYING A DRAGON A hRIBv OF WHICH IS HELD IN THE VILLAGE CHURCH 4HERE ARE WALKS INTO THE WOODS BEHIND THE VILLAGE ONE TO THE RUINS OF -ALAVALLE MONASTERY n SCENE OF THE SLAYING n AND TO THE MIRACULOUS SPRING OF 3ANT !NNA A POINT OF PILGRIMAGE ON *ULY 'UGLIELMOS FEAST DAY IS THE lRST 3UNDAY IN -AY AN EXCUSE FOR A FESTA WHICH INVOLVES THE SAINTS OLD DRUM AND SOME hMIRACLE HERBSv
0UNTA !LA AND ,E 2OCCHETTE
\
4(% - !2% - - ! &OLLØNICA AND SOUTHWARDS
5NLESS YOURE FEELING PARTICULARLY mUSH THERES NOT A LOT OF POINT IN MAKING THE DETOUR TO 05.4! !,! A RITZY PURPOSE BUILT RESORT ON THE SOUTHERN SPUR OF THE 'ULF OF &OLLØNICA "EAUTIFULLY SITUATED BELOW A CASTLE TOPPED HEADLAND ITS DOMINATED BY ITS MILLIONAIRES MARINA !LL BUT A COUPLE OF THE HOTELS ARE FOUR STAR AS ARE THE CAMPSITES MOST OF WHICH ARE AT #APO #IVININI NORTH OF THE RESORT WHERE THE LANE FROM THE MAIN ROAD MEETS THE COAST 4HE CHEAPEST PLACE TO STAY IS THE THREE STAR 0UNTA !LA 6IA DEL 0OZZINO
PRICES DROP CONSIDERABLY OUT OF SEASON 4HE MOST ACCLAIMED AND EXPEN SIVE RESTAURANT IS IN THE PLUSH FOUR STAR 'ALLIA 0ALACE (OTEL 6IA DELLE 3UGHERE WWWGALLIAPALACEIT 4HE MINOR ROAD MARKED ON THE 4#) ROAD MAP BETWEEN 0UNTA !LA AND ,% 2/##(%44% TO THE SOUTH IS LITTLE MORE THAN A FOOTPATH CAR ACCESS IS FROM THE MAIN 33 4HERES A HANDFUL OF BARS CLOSE TO A GOOD BEACH WHOSE TINY APPROACH LANE IS CHAOTIC IN HIGH SUMMER 7ITH TRANSPORT IT COULD BE A CONVEN IENT POINT TO CAMP THOUGH THE CAMPSITES HAVE LITTLE FREE SPACE IN !UGUST 4RY THE PITCH 2OCCHETTE WWWROCCHETTECOM -ARCHn/CT THE SMALLER "AIA !ZZURRA WWWBAIAAZZURRAIT !PRILn/CT OR THE PITCH 3ANTA 0OMATA WWWCAMPINGSANTAPOMATAIT !PRILn/CT
#ASTIGLIONE DELLA 0ESCAIA 3ET AMONG LOW WOODED HILLS THAT ARE A WELCOME BREAK FROM THE mAT AROUND 'ROSSETO #!34)',)/.% $%,,! 0%3#!)! STILL AFFECTS THE AIR OF A lSHING VILLAGE )T DOES ADMITTEDLY HAVE A MARINA AND TOURIST CENTRE BUT LACKS 0UNTA !LAS EXCLUSIVITY AND OF ALL THE -AREMMA RESORTS THIS IS WHERE YOURE MOST LIKELY TO HAVE A GOOD TIME 4HE BARS ARE FUN THE BEACH IS OKAY AND THE WALLED OLD TOWN ON THE HILL n BELIEVED TO HAVE BEEN AN %TRUSCAN PORT n IS A CHARMING SPOT TO WANDER WITH GREAT VIEWS FROM THE CASTLE 4HE HARBOURFRONT lSH MARKET IN THE MORNING AND LATE AFTERNOON IS WORTH CHECKING OUT IF YOURE SELF CATERING 4HERES A TOURIST OFlCE IN 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI -ONn&RI AMnPM nPM 3AT AMnPM WWWLAMAREMMAINFO 4HE BEST SITED HOTELS ARE ON THE MAIN ROAD NORTH AN AREA STILL BLESSED WITH STANDS OF UMBRELLA PINES 4HE MODERN THREE STAR -IRAMARE 6IA 6ITTORIO 6ENETO OVERLOOKS THE SEA MIRAMARE TINIT TWO STAR 2OSSELLA 6IA &RATELLI "ANDIERA WWWALBERGOROSSELLAIT + HALF BOARD ALSO HAS SEA VIEWS 4HE BEST OF THE SEVEN LOCAL CAMPSITES ARE ON THE ROAD TOWARDS 'ROSSETO THE PICK BEING %TRURIA WWWCAMPEGGIOETRURIA NET -AYn3EPT ABOUT KM SOUTH 4HERE ARE A LOT OF CHEAP RESTAURANTS AND PIZZERIAS THE -IRAMARE IS RENOWNED FOR ITS INNOVATIVE BUT EXPENSIVE lSH RESTAU RANT OR TRY THE EXCELLENT AND MODERATELY PRICED )L #ORALLO 6IA .AZARIO 3AURO CLOSED 4UES !BOUT KM EAST OF #ASTIGLIONE AT THE ENTRANCE TO THE $IACCIA "OTRONA NATURE RESERVE IS THE -USEO -ULTIMEDIALE DELLA #ASA 2OSSA 8IEMENES 4UESn3UN
nPM + "UILT IN THIS h2ED (OUSEv HAS BEEN RESTORED AND CONVERTED INTO A HIGH TECH OBSERVATION POINT OVER THE RESERVE WHICH IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT WETLAND AREAS IN )TALY 4HE IDEA IS THAT VISITORS CAN OBSERVE THE mORA AND FAUNA VIA THREE STRATEGICALLY POSITIONED WEBCAMS WITHOUT DISTURBING THE ECOSYSTEM
3OUTH TO -ARINA DI 'ROSSETO
4(% - !2% - - !
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4HE ROAD SOUTH FROM #ASTIGLIONE RUNS THROUGH A STUNNING WOODLAND OF UMBRELLA PINES PINETA A SMALL SECTION OF WHICH IS ADMINISTERED AS A NATURE RESERVE BY THE 7ORLD 7IDE &UND FOR .ATURE AND HAS RESTRICTED ACCESS 4HE REST OF THE WOODLAND n ABOUT TWELVE SQUARE KILOMETRES IN ALL n IS ACCESSIBLE ON FOOT AND THE THING TO DO IS TO LEAVE YOUR CAR ON THE ROADSIDE AND WALK DOWN TO THE SUPERB BEACHES VIA ONE OF THE MANY TRACKS THROUGH THE TREES ! BUS SERVICE BETWEEN 'ROSSETO AND #ASTIGLIONE STOPS EN ROUTE !T lRST GLANCE -!2).! $) '2/33%4/ LOOKS A DREADFUL PLACE WITH ITS GRIDIRON STREETS AND SCATTERING OF BIG BRAND NEW HOUSES !S -AREMMA RESORTS GO HOWEVER ITS SURPRISINGLY UPBEAT AND THE CLEAN BROAD BEACH IS BACKED BY LOW KEY BARS AND RESTAURANTS 4REES SHADE THE OPEN PLAN RESIDENTIAL DISTRICT GIV ING IT A TOUCH OF STYLE 9OU COULD GET A BUS OUT HERE FROM 'ROSSETO FOR THE DAY THOUGH WITH A CAR OR BIKE YOUD BE BETTER OFF HEADING TO THE SUPERIOR BEACHES AT -ARINA DI !LBERESE 4HE TOURIST OFlCE IS ON 6IA 'ROSSETANA SUMMER DAILY AMnPM nPM WINTER -ONn&RI AMnPM WWWPROLOCOMARINADIGROSSETO IT 4HERE IS AT LEAST NO SHORTAGE OF ACCOMMODATION IN -ARINAS PURPOSE BUILT MODERN HOTELS RANGING FROM THE 4RE 3TELLE 6IA DEI 0LATANI WWWMARINADIGROSSETOITTRESTELLE TO THE THREE STAR ,OLA 0ICCOLO 6IA 88)6 -AGGIO #AMPSITES ARE PLEN TIFUL THE MORE ENTICING ARE STRUNG OUT ON THE MAIN ROAD NORTH THROUGH THE PINETA -OST CONVENIENT IS THE THREE STAR 2OSMARINA 6IA DELLE #OLONIE WWWCAMPINGROSMARINAIT -AYn3EPT KM NORTH IT ALSO HAS HOTEL ACCOMMODATION WWWROSMARINAIT !BOUT KM SOUTH AT 0RINCIPINA A -ARE IS THE HUGE CAMPSITE 0RINCIPINA 6IA DEL $ENTICE !PRILn/CT
'ROSSETO
4RAVELLING BY TRAIN THE CHANCES ARE THAT YOULL PASS THE PROVINCIAL CAPITAL '2/3 3%4/ WITH NO MORE THAN A GLANCE BUT BY BUS OR CAR YOULL BE FORCED INTO THE HEART OF ITS UNAPPEALING CENTRE 2INGED BY A FACTORY RIDDEN PLAIN AND COMPOSED MAINLY OF CHARACTERLESS CONDOMINIUMS THIS COMMERCIAL METROPOLIS WAS RAISED FROM THE RUINS OF HEAVY BOMBING AND NOW SERVES PRINCIPALLY AS A FUNCTIONAL AND ADMINISTRATIVE CENTRE -OST TRAINS ON THE MAIN 2OMEn0ISA LINE STOP AT 'ROSSETO WHERE YOU CAN CHANGE FOR 3IENA OR FOR LOCALE CONNECTIONS TO /RBETELLO #ÏCINA FOR 6OLTERRA AND &OLLØNICA FOR -ASSA -ARÓTTIMA 4IMETABLING OFTEN LEAVES ABOUT AN HOUR OR SO BETWEEN CONNECTIONS n WHICH IS ABOUT ALL THE TIME YOU NEED FOR THE OLD CENTRE CONTAINED WITHIN A LARGELY INTACT HEXAGON OF WALLS COMMISSIONED BY #OSIMO ) AFTER THE &LORENTINES WRESTED CONTROL OF THE CITY FROM THE 3IENESE )N !UGUST 'ROSSETO HOSTS ONE OF THE LARGEST ENVIRONMENTAL FESTIVALS IN %UROPE THE &ESTAMBIENTE WWWFESTAMBIENTEIT WHICH DRAWS CROWDS FROM ALL OVER )TALY FOR THREE WEEKS OF CONCERTS CINEMA ECO MARKETS SEMINARS AND ORGANIC FOOD !LSO IN !UGUST ON THE TH IS THE &ESTA DI 3AN ,ORENZO WHICH FEATURES
A GROUP OF BUTTERI LEADING AN OX DRAWN CART BEARING A STATUE OF 3T ,AWRENCE PATRON SAINT OF 'ROSSETO
4HE 4OWN
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4(% - !2% - - ! 2USELLAE AND 6ETULONIA
4O REACH THE OLD CENTRE WALK UP FROM THE STATION TO JOIN 6IA 2OMA A ROAD INTERRUPTED BY AN OVER THE TOP POST OFlCE AND BLEAK PIAZZA BOTH MONUMENTS TO &ASCIST ARCHITECTURAL ENDEAVOUR 4HE BEST OF WHAT SURVIVES IN 'ROSSETO IS ON 0IAZZA $ANTE WHERE A QUIRKY STATUE SHOWS ,EOPOLDO )) PROTECTING -OTHER -AREMMA AND CRUSHING THE SERPENT MALARIA UNDER HIS FOOT 4HE $UOMO WAS STARTED IN BUT THERES VIRTUALLY NOTHING LEFT TO SUGGEST ANTIQUITY THE WHITE AND PINK MARBLE FACADE IS A PRODUCT OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY WHILE THE INTE RIOR HAS SUFFERED REPEATED AND ILL ADVISED MODIlCATIONS 4HE BEST PIECES FROM THE $UOMO HAVE BEEN TRANSFERRED TO THE -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO AT NEARBY 0IAZZA "ACCARINI -ARCH !PRIL 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM -AYn/CT 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM .OVn&EB 4UESn&RI AMn PM 3AT 3UN AMnPM nPM FREE 4HE UPPER mOOR 0INACOTECA HAS A HANDFUL OF GOOD 3IENESE PAINTINGS NOTABLY 3ASSETTAS -ADONNA OF THE #HERRIES AND A -ADONNA AND #HILD ATTRIBUTED TO 3IMONE -ARTINI -OST OF THE ARCHEO LOGICAL lNDS ARE FROM THE %TRUSCAN SETTLEMENTS AT 6ETULONIA AND 2USELLAE NEATLY ARRANGED AND WELL LABELLED BUT NOT LIKELY TO SET THE PULSE RACING 4HE TOWNS ONLY OTHER SIGNIlCANT WORK IS AN EARLY #RUCIlX BY $UCCIO IN 3AN &RANCESCO JUST NORTH OF THE MUSEUM ALSO HOME TO A FEW PATCHES OF FRESCO ,OOK OUT FOR THE CLOISTERS ALONGSIDE THE CHURCH DISTINGUISHED BY A WELL CALLED THE 0OZZO DELLA "UFALA 7ELL OF THE "UFFALO &ROM 3AN &RANCESCO YOU CAN WALK ROUND THE WALLS MIN ONE OF THE MORE REWARDING THINGS 'ROSSETO HAS TO OFFER 0UBLIC GARDENS lLL THE SPACES IN THE CORNER TURRETS APART FROM ONE WHICH RETAINS SOME &LORENTINE FORTIlCATIONS
0RACTICALITIES 'ROSSETOS TOURIST OFlCE IS INCONVENIENTLY FAR FROM THE TOWN CENTRE HEAD NORTH FROM THE STATION TURN LEFT AT 6IA !BRUZZI THEN RIGHT ONTO 6IA -ONTEROSA AND ITS WITHIN THE CONCRETE BUILDING ON THE LEFT HAND SIDE AT NO -ONn&RI AMnPM nPM 3AT AMnPM 4HE MAR KET IS ON 4HURSDAY AND DRAWS PEOPLE FROM ALL OVER THE PROVINCE 4HERES LITTLE REASON TO STAY OVERNIGHT BUT IN EMERGENCIES THERE ARE PLENTY OF REASONABLE HOTELS #ENTRAL OPTIONS INCLUDE THE ONE STAR !PPENNINO 6IALE -AMELI AND THE THREE STAR -ULINACCI 6IA -AZZINI PMULINACCI LIBEROIT 4HERE ARE SEVERAL REPUTABLE RESTAURANTS TO CHOOSE FROM INCLUDING THE MODERATELY PRICED "UCA DI 3AN ,ORENZO 6IA -ANETTI CLOSED 3UN -ON AND )L #ANTO DEL 'ALLO 6IA -AZZINI OPEN EVES DAILY LUNCHTIMES VARY &OR AN INEXPENSIVE PLATE OF CHEESE AND COLD MEATS TRY THE 6INERIA DA 2OMOLO 6IA 6INZAGLIO CLOSED 4UES
2USELLAE AND 6ETULONIA %TRUSCAN ENTHUSIASTS MIGHT WANT TO VISIT 2USELLAE AND 6ETULONIA TWO ANCIENT SITES NORTH OF 'ROSSETO 4O REACH EITHER YOU REALLY NEED YOUR OWN TRANSPORT &OR 253%,,!% THE NEARER OF THE SITES TAKE THE 33 3IENA ROAD FOR KM AND WATCH FOR THE SIGNPOST TO THE RUINS ON THE PLATEAU ABOVE n DONT TAKE THE TURN FOR
4(% - !2% - - !
\ -ONTI DELL5CCELLINA
MODERN 2OSELLE ABOUT KM EARLIER 4HE TRACK LEADS TO A SMALL CAR PARK WITH THE SITE ABOUT lVE MINUTES AWAY ON FOOT DAILY AMnDUSK + /NE OF THE TWELVE TOWNS OF THE %TRUSCAN FEDERATION 2USELLAE ROSE ABOVE THE LAKE AND MARSHY GROUND NOW OCCUPIED BY 'ROSSETO AND SURVIVED THE ARRIVAL OF THE 2OMANS "Y THE lFTH CENTURY HOWEVER IT HAD ALL BUT BEEN ABANDONED ECLIPSED BY THE RISE OF 'ROSSETO -OST OF THE lNDS ARE IN 'ROSSETOS MUSEUM AND ALL THATS VISIBLE ARE THE FOUNDA TIONS OF SOME BUILDINGS SCATTERED NECROPOLISES AND THE OUTLINES OF A 2OMAN AMPHITHEATRE 4HE TOMBS ARE PERHAPS MORE INTERESTING THAN THOSE AT 6ETULONIA BUT UNFORTUNATELY ARE CLOSED !BOUT KM NORTH OF 'ROSSETO OFF THE 33 &OLLØNICA ROAD 6%45,/.)! IS A MORE REWARDING DESTINATION 4HIS ANCIENT CITY WAS ANOTHER MEMBER OF THE %TRUSCAN FEDERATION AND SURVIVED THROUGH TO THE -IDDLE !GES THOUGH -ASSA -ARÓTTIMA HAD LONG TAKEN OVER ITS PIVOTAL FUNCTION )T WAS PROBABLY DESTROYED DURING A REVOLT AGAINST THE 0ISANS IN THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY BLOCKS FROM ITS BUILDINGS ARE NOW INCORPORATED INTO THE VILLAGE ABOVE THE RUINS WHICH STAND AT THE ROAD JUNCTION FOR "URIANO TO THE SOUTH ,ITTLE OF GENUINE %TRUSCAN VINTAGE REMAINS APART FROM A COUPLE OF BIG TOMBS THE 4OMBA DELLA 0IETRERA AND THE 4OMBA DEL $IAVOLINO DAILY AMnDUSK FREE THOUGH SCHOLARS CLAIM TO HAVE UNEARTHED AN %TRUSCAN BROTHEL COMPLETE WITH LEWD GRAFlTI APPARENTLY LEFT BY THE WOMEN WHO STAFFED IT -ANY OF THE lNDS CAN BE SEEN IN THE -USEO #IVICO !RCHEOLOGICO h)SIDORO &ALCHIv 0IAZZA 6ETLUNA DAILY SUMMER AMnPM nPM WINTER AMnPM + 0ERHAPS THE BEST REASON FOR A VISIT TO THE AREA THOUGH IS THE lNE INEXPENSIVE RESTAURANT 4AVERNA %TRUSCA 6IA 0IAZZA 3TEFANI WWWTAVERNAETRUSCAIT CLOSED -ON IN THE MAIN SQUARE OF MODERN 6ETULONIA WITH A HANDFUL OF ROOMS NEXT DOOR
-ONTI DELL5CCELLINA 4HE HILLS AND COASTLINE OF THE -/.4) $%,,5##%,,).! ARE PROTECTED AS THE 0ARCO .ATURALE 2EGIONALE DELLA -AREMMA SET TO BE UPGRADED TO A 0ARCO .AZIONALE RECOGNITION FOR AN AREA CLAIMED TO BE THE LAST VIRGIN COASTAL LANDSCAPE ON THE )TALIAN PENINSULA 4HE h-OUNTAINS OF THE ,ITTLE "IRDv TAKE THEIR NAME FROM THE NUMBER OF BIRDS THAT USE THESE HILLS AS A STEPPING STONE BETWEEN %UROPE AND .ORTH !FRICA 4HE HEART OF THE PARK IS A HUMP OF HILLS THAT RISES SUDDENLY FROM THE PLAIN ABOUT KM SOUTH OF 'ROSSETO ! BREATHTAKING PIECE OF COUNTRYSIDE THAT COM BINES CLIFFS COASTAL MARSH MACCHIA FOREST COVERED HILLS PRISTINE BEACHES AND SOME OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL STANDS OF UMBRELLA PINES IN THE COUNTRY IT IS A MICRO COSM OF ALL THATS BEST IN THE -AREMMA n DEVOID OF THE BARS MARINAS HOTELS ROADS AND HALF lNISHED HOUSES THAT HAVE DESTROYED MUCH OF THE )TALIAN LITTORAL +EPT REMOTE FOR CENTURIES BY MALARIA AND IMPASSABLE SWAMP ITS NOW PRESERVED THROUGH THE DETERMINATION OF ITS OWNERS TO KEEP THE REGION SACROSANCT 4HE RESULT IS AN AREA THAT REWARDS THE CASUAL WALKER BIRDWATCHER BOTANIST OR ANYONE SIMPLY IN SEARCH OF A STRETCH OF UNSPOILT SAND
0ARK PRACTICALITIES
4HERE IS NO PUBLIC ROAD ACCESS INTO THE PARK DAILY *ULYn3EPT AMnDUSK REST OF YEAR AMnDUSK ALL DRIVERS SHOULD PARK NEAR THE RESERVE HEADQUARTERS IN THE MAIN SQUARE AT !,"%2%3% (OURLY BUSES RUN THERE FROM 'ROS SETO STATION AND THERES ONE DAILY TRAIN IN THE MORNING TO !LBERESE STATION KM FROM THE VILLAGE
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4(% - !2% - - ! -ONTI DELL5CCELLINA
5 5MBRELLA PINES LINING THE ROAD TO !LBERESE
!LBERESES PARK HEADQUARTERS AND VISITORS CENTRE IN 6IA DEL &ANTE !PRILn 3EPT DAILY AMnPM WWWPARKSIT HAS DETAILS OF WALKS n BOTH GUIDED AND SELF GUIDED n AND CAN TAKE BOOKINGS FOR A THREE HOUR NIGHT WALKING TOUR 7EVE DETAILED THE PICK OF THE MARKED TRAILS BELOW 4HE CENTRE CAN ALSO PROVIDE INFORMATION ON RENTING BIKES AND CANOES !DMISSION TO THE PARK SECURES YOU A BASIC MAP AND A PLACE ON AN HOURLY BUS + WHICH RUNS KM INTO THE HILLS DROPS YOU AT THE TRAILHEAD 0RATINI REALLY JUST A lELD AND LEAVES YOU TO YOUR OWN DEVICES )TS ABOUT A TWENTY MINUTE STROLL FROM 0RATINI TO THE BEACH %NERGETIC TYPES MIGHT WALK ALL THE WAY FROM !LBERESE IF YOU WANT TO SEE THE WILDLIFE AT DUSK THE BEST TIME YOULL HAVE TO WALK BACK ANYWAY AS THE LAST BUS BACK FROM 0RATINI DEPARTS AT PM IN SUMMER EARLIER IN WINTER 9OU CAN BUY BUS TICKETS FOR THE RETURN JOURNEY FROM !LBERESE TO 'ROSSETO AT "AR )L 0ARCO JUST BEHIND THE VISITORS CENTRE
7ALKS IN THE 5CCELLINA /NCE OFF THE BUS FROM !LBERESE AT 0RATINI MOST PEOPLE RUSH HEADLONG ALONG THE 3TRADA DEGLI /LIVI FOR THE BEACH AN IDYLLIC CURVING BAY BACKED BY CLIFFS AND WOODED HILLS THE OBVIOUS STRETCH IS TO THE LEFT THOUGH YOU CAN TRUDGE THE BEACH FOR MILES TO THE RIGHT ROUND THE HUGE PINETA TOWARDS THE MOUTH OF THE /MBRONE 4USCANYS SECOND LONGEST RIVER !LTERNATIVELY YOU COULD CHOOSE ONE OF THE MARKED TRAILS THAT CRISSCROSS EACH OTHER WITHIN THE PARK THERE ARE MORE STARTING FROM 4ALAMONE SEE P AND ALSO SEVERAL SHORTER TRAILS IF YOURE JUST LOOKING FOR A QUICK STROLL 4HE BEST OF THE MARKED ROUTES IS THE CIRCULAR 4RAIL ! 3AN 2ABANO KM HR GUIDED WALKS IN SUMMER AT AM WHICH STARTS FROM 0RATINI 4HE TRACK CLIMBS QUICKLY TO THE 5CCELLINAS MAIN RIDGE M WITH VIEWS TO THE COAST AND TO -ONTE !MIATA IN THE INTERIOR REACHING THE ABBEY OF 3AN 2ABANO AFTER ABOUT
&LORA AND FAUNA IN THE 5CCELLINA
4(% - !2% - - !
\ -ONTI DELL5CCELLINA
%VEN IF YOURE NOT LOOKING OUT FOR IT YOUD HAVE TO BE UNLUCKY NOT TO SEE ANY INTEREST ING WILDLIFE IN THE PROTECTED ENVIRONMENT OF THE 5CCELLINA !N EXTRAORDINARY RANGE OF SPECIES THRIVE HERE IN WHAT IS EFFECTIVELY A COMPENDIUM OF -EDITERRANEAN COASTAL HABITATS n WOODED HILLS OLIVE GROVES PASTURES MARSHLAND PINETA PRIMARY AND SEC ONDARY MACCHIA DUNES RETRO DUNAL AREAS ESTUARY AND MUDmATS 4HE /MBRONE ESTUARY IS THE KEY TARGET OF SERIOUS BIRDWATCHERS DURING THE SPRING AND AUTUMN MIGRATORY CYCLES WHEN A VARIED ASSORTMENT OF WADERS DUCKS HERONS AND EGRETS CAN BE SEEN 2ARITIES LIKE OSPREYS BEE EATERS mAMINGOES AND EVEN FALCONS AND SHORT TOED EAGLES CAN BE SPOTTED IN THE ROCKIER HINTERLAND AND YOURE ALMOST GUARANTEED THE SIGHT OF HERONS WHEELING AWAY FROM THE CANALS PERHAPS WITH HOOPOES SHRIKES KINGlSHERS AND THE RARE BRIGHTLY COLOURED BLACK WINGED STILT /THER SPECIES ARE MOST LIKELY TO BE ENCOUNTERED TOWARDS DUSK WITH ROE DEER PREVALENT IN THE HILLS 4HE FAMOUS WILD BOAR IS AN OFTEN AUDIBLE INHABITANT OF THE SCRUB AND PINE FOREST AN INDIGENOUS -AREMMA BREED ITS A SMALLER SPECIMEN THAN OTHER )TALIAN BOAR MOST OF WHICH ARE DESCENDED FROM BULKY %ASTERN %UROPEAN STOCK 4HE CRESTED PORCUPINE INTRODUCED BY THE 2OMANS IS ALSO FAIRLY COMMON )TALY IS THE ONLY PLACE ITS FOUND OUTSIDE !FRICA AS ARE BADGERS AND FOXES IT IS HOPED THAT THE INCREASINGLY RARE OTTER WILL mOURISH HERE TOO )N THE CULTIVATED LAND TO THE NORTH AND ON THE mAT FRINGES OF THE ESTUARY YOULL SEE THE SEMI WILD HORSES FOR WHICH THE -AREMMA IS FAMOUS 4RACKING DOWN mORA IS MORE A JOB FOR THE SPECIALIST THOUGH THE PINES AND CORK OAKS ARE UNMISSABLE AS ARE THE HUGE BANKS OF ROSEMARY BUSHES PURPLE WITH mOWERS IN THE LATE SUMMER 4HE DWARF PINE )TALYS ONLY INDIGENOUS PINE HAS ITS NORTHERNMOST NATURAL LIMIT IN THE PARK AND NUMEROUS mORAL RARITIES PEPPER THE PARKS DUNES MAC CHIA AND MARSHES
NINETY MINUTES "UILT IN THE ELEVENTH CENTURY AND ABANDONED lVE HUNDRED YEARS LATER THE CHURCH IS NOW AN IVY COVERED RUIN WITH STONE CARVINGS LITTERING THE GRASS 4HE PATH THEN DROPS RIGHT RETURNING BELOW THE RIDGE TO THE 3TRADA DEGLI /LIVI THROUGH EVERGREEN WOODS 4RAIL ! ,E 4ORRI KM HR GUIDED WALKS IN SUMMER AT AM PM TOURS IN %NGLISH EVERY &RI PM STARTS NEARER THE BEACH AND CONNECTS SOME OF THE MEDIEVAL WATCHTOWERS BUILT BY THE 3PANISH WHO WITH THE 3IENESE WERE THE ONLY PEOPLE TO BOTHER WITH THE AREA USING IT AS A SOURCE OF CORK AND CHAR COAL 4AKING IN SEVERAL COASTAL HABITATS IT OFFERS AN EXTRAORDINARY VIEW OVER THE UMBRELLA PINES 0INUS PINEA ON THE SAND BAR AND DUNES BELOW 4HESE ARE THE PARKS CROWNING GLORY AND ONE OF THE MOST MEMORABLE NATURAL SIGHTS IN 4USCANY n A VAST CANOPY OF EMERALD GREEN THAT STRETCHES ALMOST AS FAR AS THE EYE CAN SEE )TS WELL WORTH DROPPING DOWN FROM THE TOWER TO EXPLORE THE WOODS WHERE YOU COULD ROAM FOR HOURS RESTRICTED ONLY BY THE AREAS OF MARSH AT THEIR FRINGES -ANY OF THESE PINES WERE PLANTED THE DOMESTIC VARIETY TO BE HARVESTED FOR THEIR PINE NUTS THE MARITIME ONES TO CONSOLIDATE THE DUNES ON THE ESTUARY 4HE LEVEL 4RAIL ! ,E 'ROTTE KM HR TAKES IN A LONG STRETCH OF THE WOODS AND THE CANALS THAT DIVIDE THE PARK ALTHOUGH ITS ONE OF THE LESS REWARDING WALKS IT IS QUITE REMOTE AND OFFERS GOOD CHANCES TO SEE WILDLIFE )T STARTS NEAR NO AND ITS ULTIMATE DESTINATION IS A GROUP OF CAVES ONE OF WHICH ,A 'ROTTA DELLA &AB BRICA HAS YIELDED SOME OF THE OLDEST HUMAN REMAINS FOUND IN )TALY 4RAIL ! #ALA DI &ORNO KM HR IS THE LONGEST MOST VARIED AND LEAST USED OF THE TRAILS TAKING IN HILL COAST AND CLIFF SCENERY AND REACHING THE LARGE #ALA DI &ORNO HEADLAND THAT DOMINATES THE BAY TO THE SOUTH 4HE RETURN TAKES YOU ALONG THE DUNES AND A SUPERB STRETCH OF BEACH AT 0ORTOVECCHIO
-ARINA DI !LBERESE
!T THE SOUTHERN TIP OF THE 5CCELLINA AND JUST OUTSIDE THE PARKS CONlNES 4!, !-/.% IS A lSHING VILLAGE AND DISCREET SUMMER RESORT 3AVE FOR A YACHT lLLED MARINA MOST OF ITS OLD CHARM REMAINS INTACT 4HE 3IENESE n WHO NEVER HAD A PROPER OUTLET TO THE SEA n ONCE PLANNED TO TURN ITS HOLE IN THE WALL HARBOUR INTO A PORT TO RIVAL 0ISAS BUT CLOGGING WEED DOOMED THE PROJECT TO FAILURE IN THE )NFERNO $ANTE USED THIS AS A METAPHOR FOR POINTLESS ENTERPRISE 4HE TOWNS GREATEST MOMENT CAME IN WHEN 'ARIBALDI AND THE 4HOUSAND STOPPED HERE FOR THREE DAYS ON THEIR WAY TO 3ICILY 4ALAMONES SIXTEENTH CENTURY 3PANISH CASTLE IS CLOSED TO THE PUBLIC 4WO WALKING TRAILS CLOSED nPM LEAD OFF INTO THE HILLS FROM 4ALAMONE MAKING THIS A GOOD BASE FOR EXPLORING THE SOUTHERN EDGE OF THE PARK 4O REACH THE TRAILHEAD AT #APRARECCE TURN RIGHT JUST BEFORE 4ALAMONE AND CONTINUE UP A DIRT TRACK FOR ABOUT KM HERE YOULL ALSO lND A VISITORS CENTRE !PRILn3EPT DAILY AMnPM !DMISSION TO TACKLE THESE SELF GUIDED WALKS IS THE STANDARD + 4RAIL 4 KM HR MIN IS SIMPLY A SHORTER VERSION OF TRAIL 4 KM HR BOTH START FROM 0ODERE #APRARECCE AND HEAD UP THROUGH -EDITERRANEAN SCRUB TO THE 0UNTA DEL #ORVO FROM WHERE YOU CAN ADMIRE SPECTACULAR VIEWS OF THE PARKS SOUTHERNMOST COASTLINE AND THE -ONTE !RGENTARIO BEYOND 4HE TRAILS LOOP BACK TO THE STARTING POINT THROUGH HOLM OAK WOODLAND 4ALAMONES SUMMER ONLY TOURIST OFlCE AT 0IAZZALE DEL 0ORTO -AYn3EPT -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM CAN POINT YOU IN THE DIRECTION OF THE BADLY SIGNPOSTED !CQUARIO DELLA ,AGUNA DI /RBETELLO *ULY !UG DAILY nPM !PRILn*UNE 3EPT 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM /CTn-ARCH 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM + 9OU CAN RENT BOATS FROM THE PORT AREA FOR AROUND + PER DAY EXCLUDING FUEL 4ALAMONE HAS THREE HOTELS THE CENTRAL 4ELAMONIO 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI WWWHOTELILTELAMONIOCOM THE THREE STAR #APO D5OMO 6IA #ALA DI &ORNO WWWHOTELCAPODUOMOCOM
WITH SEA VIEWS AND "AIA DI 4ALAMONE 6IA DELLA -ARINA HOTELBAIA TISCALINETIT 4HERES ALSO A CAMPSITE 4ALAMONE )NTERNATIONAL #AMPING !PRILn3EPT !MONG THE RES
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4ALAMONE
4(% - !2% - - ! -ONTI DELL5CCELLINA
!LTHOUGH LOCATED WITHIN THE PARK ENTRY RESTRICTIONS DO NOT APPLY TO -!2).! $) !,"%2%3% WHOSE BEACH n THOUGH NOT AS SUPERB AS THAT IN THE PARK PROPER n RATES AS ONE OF THE BEST IN 4USCANY )TS OPEN ALL YEAR BUT THERES A BAR RIER AT 3PERGOLAIA WHICH IS CLOSED WHEN PRESSURE OF NUMBERS BECOMES TOO GREAT 9OU NEED TO BUY A TICKET IN ADVANCE AT 0IAZZA DEL #OMBATTENTE IN !LBERESE FULL DAY + HALF DAY + #AMPERS CARAVANS AND TRAILERS ARE EXCLUDED BUT IN PRACTICE NO ONE SEEMS TO TAKE MUCH NOTICE 4HERES NOWHERE TO STAY AND CAMPING IS PROHIBITED 4HE ARROW STRAIGHT ACCESS ROAD IS A PLEASURE IN ITSELF SHADED BY AN AVENUE OF PINES AND mANKED BY HILLS CORRALS OF HORSES AND lELDS OF WHITE OXEN 4OWARDS THE SEA IT ENTERS A DENSE PINETA AND ENDS WITH A CAR PARK %XCEPT FOR A MOBILE BAR AND PLEASANT PICNIC AREA THERES NO OTHER DEVELOPMENT 4HE PINES COME RIGHT DOWN TO THE BEACH AND IN PLACES INTO THE SEA ITSELF THEIR SMOOTH BLEACHED TRUNKS CREATING THE FEEL OF A TROPICAL ISLAND 4HE )TALIANS GREGARIOUS AS EVER STICK TO THE AREA AT THE END OF THE ROAD SO YOU DONT HAVE TO WALK FAR TO lND SOLITUDE 4HE SAND IS CLEAN THE SEA SHALLOW AND PERFECT FOR SWIMMING n AND ITS ALL ROUNDED OFF BY BEAUTIFUL VIEWS TO THE !RGENTARIO 'IGLIO AND THE TREE COVERED BACKDROP OF THE 5CCELLINA
TAURANTS TRY THE CENTRAL POPULAR AND MODERATELY PRICED ,A "UCA 6IA 0ORTA 'ARIBALDI CLOSED -ON OR THE EXPENSIVE $A &LAVIA 0IAZZA )6 .OVEMBRE CLOSED 4UES KNOWN FOR ITS lSH AND SEAFOOD
3CANSANO AND -AGLIANO 4(% - !2% - - !
4HE SETTLEMENTS OF -AGLIANO AND 3CANSANO OFFER ONE OF THE -AREMMAS MANY REWARDING INLAND DIVERSIONS )F YOURE SPENDING ANY TIME IN THE REGION 3CANSANO IS WORTH CONSIDERING AS AN ALTERNATIVE BASE TO 'ROSSETO AND EVEN IF YOURE JUST PASSING THROUGH THE ENCLOSING WALLS OF -AGLIANO ARE A SIGHT NOT TO BE MISSED 4HE LANDSCAPE HERE IS MORE INVITING THAN MOST OF THE COAST WITH VINEYARDS AND WOODS OF SWEET CHESTNUT REMINISCENT OF #HIANTI n AS WELL AS EXCELLENT VISTAS OF THE 5CCELLINA "OTH VILLAGES ARE SOMEWHAT OFF THE BEATEN TRACK WITH LIMITED BUS SERVICE FROM 'ROSSETO A CAR IS THUS A DISTINCT ADVANTAGE ALLOWING YOU TO VISIT BOTH ON A CROSS COUNTRY ROUTE TOWARDS -ONTE !MIATA
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3CANSANO
!BOUT KM SOUTHEAST OF 'ROSSETO ON THE 33 3#!.3!./ IS A CRAMPED LITTLE HILL VILLAGE WITH lNE CLEAR VIEWS TO THE RIDGES OF THE 5CCELLINA )T IS SITED M ABOVE SEA LEVEL ON A SPUR THAT PUSHES INTO AN IMPRESSIVE WOODED GORGE THE END OF THE SPUR IS CAPPED IN PICTURESQUE STYLE BY THE BULK OF THE PARISH CHURCH 4HE MAIN ROAD CLIMBS INTO 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI OCCUPIED BY A STERN STATUE OF THE EPONYMOUS HERO SEVERAL TINY TRATTORIE AND THE ONE STAR HOTEL ,A 0OSTA 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI 4HERES QUIETER BUT MORE UPMARKET ACCOMMODATION IN THE OLD TOWN ENTERED THROUGH THE ARCH OFF 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI AND LITTLE MORE THAN A SINGLE STREET THAT RUNS THE LENGTH OF THE SPUR 4HE MID PRICE OPTION HERE IS THE TWO STAR -AGINI 6IA 88 3ETTEMBRE !LTERNATIVELY KM OUT OF TOWN AT #ASTAGNETA ON THE 33 TO -ANCIANO THERES THE !NTICO #ASALE WWW ANTICOCASALEDISCANSANOCOM BUT IF YOURE PLANNING TO STAY LONGER IN THE AREA YOU MIGHT CONSIDER ONE OF THE MANY AGRITURISMO OPTIONS WWW AGRITURISMOINMAREMMACOM FOR WHICH YOULL NEED TO BOOK IN ADVANCE 4HE 3CANSANO AREA PRODUCES A lNE $/# WINE -ORELLINO DI 3CANSANO WWWCANTINADELMORELLINOIT WHICH LIKE THE BETTER KNOWN "RUNELLO DI -ONTALCINO IS MADE ENTIRELY FROM 3ANGIOVESE GRAPES 9OU CAN lND OUT MORE ABOUT THE -ORELLINO GRAPE AND ITS WINE AT THE -USEO DELLA 6ITE E DEL 6INO 0IAZZA 0RETORIO !PRILn/CT 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM .OVn-ARCH &RIn3UN AMnPM nPM FREE WHICH DOUBLES AS THE TOWNS -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO 4O COMBINE WINE TASTING WITH A MEAL TRY THE EXCELLENT 2IS TORANTE%NOTECA LA #ANTINA 6IA DELLA "OTTE CLOSED 4UES 4HIS IS ALSO ONE OF THE VERY FEW RESTAURANTS IN 4USCANY THAT OFFERS A SELECTION OF OLIVE OILS TO TASTE WITH YOUR FOOD &OR EXCELLENT VALUE 4USCAN CUISINE HEAD FOR THE FRIENDLY )L 2IFRULLO 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI CLOSED 4HURS WITH OUT DOOR TABLES IN SUMMER -AGLIANO IN 4OSCANA
3OUTH OF 3CANSANO THE ROAD PASSES THROUGH THE HAMLET OF 0ERETA n WHERE A SINGLE HUGE TOWER CROWNS A FORTIlED BORGO AND A COUPLE OF STREETS n BEFORE REACHING -!',)!./ ). 4/3#!.! DESCENDANT OF THE %TRUSCAN TOWN OF (EBA 4HE PLACE TODAY IS ESSENTIALLY A VILLAGE ITS MOST REMARKABLE FEATURE AN ALMOST COM PLETELY INTACT CIRCLE OF WALLS THOSE ON THE SOUTH SIDE DATING FROM THE THIRTEENTH
)N THE SOUTHWEST CORNER OF 4USCANY SOME KM SOUTH OF 'ROSSETO AND JUST BEFORE THE ,AZIO BORDER /2"%4%,,/ IS PRINCIPALLY DISTINGUISHED BY ITS STRANGE LOCATION ON A NARROW ISTHMUS IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ,AGUNA DI /RBETEL LO ,ITTLE IN THE PLACE EXCITES REAL ATTENTION BUT IT HAS BECOME SOMETHING OF A RESORT THANKS TO ITS BEING THE GATEWAY TO THE DRAMATIC ROCKY OUTCROP OF -ONTE !RGENTARIO ON SUMMER WEEKENDS IT BECOMES A BOTTLENECK AS CARS FULL OF TOUR ISTS PILE IN TO 0ORTO %RCOLE AND 0ORTO 3AN 3TEFANO THE !RGENTARIOS SUPPOSEDLY CHIC RESORTS !S WELL AS SEAFRONT ATTRACTIONS THE /RBETELLO AREA OFFERS MUCH TO NATURALISTS ITS LAGOON BOASTING A NATURE RESERVE SUPERB FOR BIRDWATCHING ,ONG AGO -ONTE !RGENTARIO WAS AN ISLAND /VER SEVERAL THOUSAND YEARS INSHORE CURRENTS BUILT UP TWO NARROW SAND SPITS OR TOMBOLI BETWEEN THE MOUNTAINS AND THE MAINLAND CREATING A LAGOON BETWEEN THEM 4HE ANCIENT SET TLEMENT OF /RBETELLO OCCUPIED A PENINSULA STICKING OUT INTO THE LAGOON THEN THE 2OMANS BUILT A CAUSEWAY TO LINK /RBETELLO TO THE !RGENTARIO FORMING A THIRD SPIT OF LAND AND DIVIDING THE LAGOON IN TWO
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/RBETELLO AND ITS LAGOON
4(% - !2% - - ! /RBETELLO AND ITS LAGOON
CENTURY THE REST A lFTEENTH CENTURY LEGACY OF THE 3IENESE 4HE BASTIONS ARE SO IMPRESSIVE FROM A DISTANCE THAT THEY DRAW YOU TOWARDS THE TOWN THROUGH THE UGLY ESTATE THAT SUDDENLY APPEARS ROUND A BEND IN THE ROAD #LOSE UP THE VILLAGE IS A STRANGE CRUMBLING MIXTURE OF OLD AND NEW WITH CONCRETE HOUSES SQUEEZED IN ALONGSIDE MEDIEVAL DWELLINGS 4HE MAIN CHURCH IN #ORSO 'ARIBALDI IS A "AROQUE MESS BUT RETAINS SOME WELL PRESERVED FRESCOES FROM THE ORIGINAL BUILD ING #LOSE BY ARE THE TINY 0IAZZA DEL 0OPOLO AND THE ABANDONED 0ALAZZO DEI 0RIORI BUILT BY THE 3IENESE 4HE GHOST TOWN ATMOSPHERE DOESNT INVITE FURTHER EXPLORATION BUT YOU SHOULD CARRY ON TO THE END OF THE MAIN STREET WHERE AN ARCH IN THE WALLS FRAMES A VIEW OVER CLASSIC 4USCAN COUNTRYSIDE ! SHORT HIKE AWAY ARE THE RUINS OF 3AN "RUZIO KM SOUTH ON THE ROAD TO -ARSILIANA ! SINGLE BLEACHED WHITE STUMP OF A TOWER IS ALL THAT REMAINS OF THIS TWELFTH CENTURY ABBEY BUT ITS A PLEASANT PLACE SET IN A LARGE OLIVE GROVE ,OCAL LEGEND SUGGESTS IT WAS BUILT ON THE SITE OF A PAGAN TEMPLE AND MORE SALACIOUSLY THAT IT WAS CONNECTED BY A TUNNEL TO THE NOW VANISHED NUNNERY OF 3ANT!NNA -AGLIANO HAS A SINGLE ONE STAR HOTEL ) "UTTERI 6IA 0ROVINCIALE AND ALSO A BED AND BREAKFAST ESTABLISHMENT ,OCANDA DELLE -URA 0IAZZA -AR CONI WWWLOCANDADELLEMURAIT WITH ONLY lVE ROOMS A LOVELY GARDEN AND A SMALL COSY RESTAURANT 4HERE ARE SEVERAL MODERATELY PRICED RESTAURANTS INCLUDING 3ANDRA #ORSO 'ARIBALDI CLOSED -ON !NTICA !URORA #HIASSO ,AVAGNINI CLOSED 7ED AND 2ISTORANTE $A 'UIDO 6IA 2OMA CLOSED 4UES
4HE 4OWN
/RBETELLO IS A PLEASANT UNASSUMING PLACE GRACED WITH PALM TREES THE PASTEL COLOURED REMNANTS OF ITS 3PANISH WALLS AND A MAIN STREET n THE #ORSO )TALIA n THRONGED EACH EVENING WITH A PARTICULARLY VIGOROUS PASSEGGIATA )T WAS PROBABLY %TRURIAS LEADING PORT THOUGH LITTLE EVIDENCE OF ITS ANCIENT PAST REMAINS EXCEPT FOR A FEW BLOCKS OF %TRUSCAN WALL UNDERWATER NEAR THE CAUSEWAY 4HE "YZANTINES TOOK ADVANTAGE OF ITS EASILY DEFENDED POSITION HOLDING OUT LONGER HERE THAN ANYWHERE ELSE ON THE 4YRRHENIAN COAST 4HEREAFTER THE PAPACY GAINED CONTROL AND DID NOT RELINQUISH IT UNTIL WHEN THE 3PANISH ESTABLISHED A MILITARY 0RESIDIO WITH /RBETELLO AS ITS CAPITAL 4HE TOWNS LAST CLAIM TO FAME WAS AS THE
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\ /RBETELLO AND ITS LAGOON
5 /RBETELLO
HEADQUARTERS OF -USSOLINIS SEAPLANE SQUADRONS THE SURVIVING AIRCRAFT HANGAR IS ONE OF 4USCANYS MORE BIZARRE ARCHITECTURAL ATTRACTIONS 4HE 3PANISH FORTIlCATIONS ARE THE TOWNS CONSPICUOUS FEATURE AND A lNE EXAMPLE OF MILITARY ARCHITECTURE 4HE ELEGANT ARSENAL 0OLVERIERA DE 'UZMAN HOUSES A SMALL ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM .EARBY THE $UOMO IN 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA APPEARS PROMISING WITH ITS LOVELY 'OTHIC FACADE ONLY TO DISAP POINT WITH A GRIM "AROQUE INTERIOR /RBETELLOS LIVELY STREET MARKET IS HELD ON 3ATURDAYS 4HE ,AGUNA DI /RBETELLO
/RBETELLOS LAGOON OFFERS EXCEPTIONAL BIRDWATCHING WITH CONlRMED SIGHTINGS OF OF )TALYS ESTIMATED SPECIES /NE REASON FOR THE VARIETY IS THE RELATIVE LACK OF AVIAN REFUGE ON )TALYS WEST COAST !NOTHER IS THE LAGOONS MODEST DEPTH ONLY M WHICH MEANS AN ACCESSIBLE MULCH OF lSH AND ASSORTED FOOD THERES ALSO A VARIETY OF MARSH MACCHIA DUNE AND REED HABITATS FOR NEST BUILDING %VEN RARE SPECIES ARE FREQUENTLY SIGHTED AND MANY OF THEM ARE KNOWN TO BREED IN THE AREA .OTABLE ARE THE STONE CURLEW OSPREY BLACK WINGED STILT BEE EATER -ONTAGUS HARRIER AND n MOST IMPORTANTLY n THE BLACK WINGED STILT OTHERWISE KNOWN TO BREED ONLY IN 3ARDINIA AND THE 0O DELTA ,ITTLE EGRETS TERNS STORKS AND HERONS ARRIVE IN LARGE NUMBERS GLOSSY IBIS AND CRANES ARE REGULAR VISITORS AND ITS NOT UNKNOWN FOR PINK mAMINGOES TO STAY FOR THE SUMMER %VENING IS THE BEST TIME AROUND THE LAGOON NOT ONLY IS THE WILDLIFE MOST VISIBLE THEN BUT THE SUNSETS OVER THE WATER AND THE MOUNTAINS OF THE !RGENTARIO ARE FABULOUS )TS POSSIBLE TO SEE WILDLIFE FROM ALMOST ANY POINT ON THE LAGOON )N THE NORTH ERNMOST CORNER NEAR THE TOWN OF !LBINIA THE 7ORLD 7IDE &UND FOR .ATURE HAS ESTABLISHED A SMALL NATURE RESERVE ,/ASI DI 0ROTEZIONE DELLA ,AGUNA DI /RBETELLO GUIDED TOURS IN )TALIAN 3EPTn!PRIL 3UN 4HURS AM PM + 4HE ENTRANCE TO THE RESERVE IS OFF THE MAIN ROAD KM SOUTH OF !LBINIA MARKED BY A SMALL PANDA SIGN THE WARDEN CAN SOMETIMES BE CONTACTED AT THE BUILDING AT THE END OF THE TRACK OR CONTACT THE TOURIST OFlCE IN /RBETELLO FOR FURTHER INFORMATION
)F TIME IS TIGHT EXPLORING THE SOUTHERN 4OMBOLO DI &ENIGLIA IS A GOOD SUBSTITUTE FOR A TOUR OF THE RESERVE THE NORTHERN 4OMBOLO DI 'IANNELLA IS LESS APPEALING WITH ITS CAMPSITES AND DRIVEABLE ROAD 4OMBOLO DI &ENIGLIA HAS ONE OF )TALYS MOST BEAUTIFUL PINETE A LONG SANDY DUNE COVERED IN PARASOL PINES AND IS ALSO PROTECTED BY A SMALL NATURE RESERVE WHERE YOU CAN OFTEN SEE ROE DEER 4HE ROAD ALONG IT IS OFF LIMITS FOR CARS THOUGH YOU CAN WALK ITS WHOLE COURSE DROPPING DOWN TO THE LAGOON SIDE FOR GREAT VIEWS OR TO THE OTHER SIDE FOR A lNE BEACH )F YOU CONTINUE THE WALK THROUGH !NSEDONIA AND THEN ALONG THE BEACH SOUTH FOR ABOUT AN HOUR YOULL REACH THE ,AGO DI "URANO 0RACTICALITIES
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4(% - !2% - - ! -ONTE !RGENTARIO
4HE TRAIN STATION IS KM EAST AT /RBETELLO 3CALO ON THE MAINLAND EDGE OF THE LAGOON A PROMINENT STOP FOR TRAINS ON THE 2OMEn0ISA LINE 4HERE ARE CONNEC TIONS FOR 3IENA AND SLOW TRAINS TO SMALLER STATIONS TO THE NORTH AND SOUTH #ON NECTING BUSES RUN FROM THE STATION TO /RBETELLOS BUS TERMINAL JUST OFF 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA FROM HERE THERE ARE REGULAR SERVICES TO 'ROSSETO 0ORTO %RCOLE AND 0ORTO 3AN 3TEFANO AS WELL AS DAILY BUSES TO #APÉLBIO AND 0ITIGLIANO 4HE TOURIST OFlCE IN 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA DAILY AMnNOON nPM WWWPROLOCO ORBETELLOIT IS A USEFUL SOURCE OF INFORMATION ON ACCOMMODATION IN /RBETELLO AND THE MAINLAND HAMLETS OF !LBINIA AND !NSEDONIA BOTH SERVED BY LOCAL BUSES /RBETELLO IS THE NIC EST OPTION AND HAS TWO ONE STAR HOTELS THE CENTRAL 0ICCOLO 0ARIGI #ORSO )TALIA AND ,A 0ERLA 6IA %TRURIA -OST OF THE AREAS FOURTEEN CAMPSITES ARE ON AND AROUND THE LAGOON AND ALONG THE MAIN 33 6IA !URELIA 4HE MOST ATTRACTIVE IS THE ALL YEAR &ENIGLIA THE ONLY SITE ON THE 4OMBOLO DI &ENIGLIA 4WO MORE ARE TO BE FOUND OUT ON THE 4OMBOLO DI 'IANNELLA THE THREE STAR )L 6ELIERO ALL YEAR AND THE TWO STAR #OMUNALE 'IANNELLA WWWGIANNELLALACOSTA COM ALL YEAR WHICH IS THE FRIENDLIER IF NOT THE SMARTER OF THE TWO !LBINIA ALSO HAS A COUPLE OF SITES AND THERE ARE FOUR MORE WITHIN KM ON THE 33 TO THE WEST #AMPO 2EGIO KM WEST IS SITUATED AROUND M FROM THE BEACH AND IS THE ONLY ONE OF THESE OPEN ALL YEAR /RBETELLOS BEST BUDGET RESTAURANT IS THE INEXPENSIVE 0IZZERIA 'ENNARO AT #ORSO )TALIA CLOSED -ON &OR A MODERATELY PRICED lSH MEAL TRY THE /STERIA .OCHINO JUST OFF 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA IN 6IA &URIO ,ENZI EVES ONLY
-ONTE !RGENTARIO 4HE HIGH ROCKY TERRAIN OF -ONTE !RGENTARIO IS AS CLOSE TO WILDERNESS AS SOUTH ERN 4USCANY COMES 4HE INTERIOR IS MOUNTAINOUS REACHING M AT ITS HIGHEST POINT )L 4ELEGRAFO AND THE COAST IS SECTIONED DRAMATICALLY INTO HEADLANDS BAYS AND SHINGLE BEACHES !WAY FROM THE VILLAS OF RICH 2OMANS MUCH OF THE AREA IS STILL UNINHABITED SCRUB AND WOODLAND BADLY PRONE TO FOREST lRES BUT STILL SUPERB WALKING COUNTRY 4HE MAIN CENTRES OF 0ORTO 3ANTO 3TEFANO AND 0ORTO %RCOLE ONCE HAD A REPUTATION FOR EXCLUSIVITY BUT THESE DAYS THEYRE TOO WELL KNOWN TO PANDER SOLELY TO THE TOP END OF THE MARKET 0RICES ARE MANAGEABLE AS ARE THE CROWDS THOUGH YOULL PROBABLY NEED TO BOOK AHEAD FOR PEAK PERIODS 7ITH YOUR OWN TRANSPORT YOU COULD FOLLOW THE TOUTED GITA PANORAMICA SCENIC DRIVE AROUND HALF THE MOUNTAIN THE OTHER HALF IS CURRENTLY IMPASSABLE
0ORTO 3ANTO 3TEFANO
4(% - !2% - - !
\ 'IGLIO AND 'IANNUTRI
0/24/ 3!.4/ 34%&!./ IS THE MORE DEVELOPED OF THE !RGENTARIO RESORTS AND ALSO THE MORE FASHIONABLE n WHICH IN )TALY IS A LOT WORSE THAN JUST BEING POPULAR 3OMETHING OF THE CHARM WHICH lRST BROUGHT PEOPLE HERE STILL SHINES THROUGH HOWEVER DESPITE THE HOTELS AND VILLAS THAT HAVE ALL BUT OBLITER ATED THE ORIGINAL VILLAGE ! FEW lSHING BOATS STILL CLUSTER IN THE TOWNS SMALLER HARBOUR HAVING RELINQUISHED THE MAIN PORT TO THE MARINA AND ITS MEGA YACHTS 9OULL PROBABLY STAY ONLY AS LONG AS IT TAKES TO GET A FERRY TO THE ISLAND OF 'IGLIO "USES RUN TO THE PORT FROM THE TRAIN STATION AT /RBETELLO 3CALO SO YOU CAN AVOID ALMOST ANY CONTACT WITH THE PLACE AT ALL 4HE TOURIST OFlCE 0IAZZALE 3ANT!NDREA -ONn3AT *ANn-ARCH AMnPM nPM !PRILn$EC AMnPM nPM WWWLAMAREMMA INFO HAS INFORMATION ON AFFORDABLE ACCOMMODATION n MAINLY IN PRIVATE ROOMS 9OULL NEED TO BOOK WELL AHEAD FOR EITHER OF THE TOWNS CHEAPER HOTELS THE CENTRAL !LlERO 6IA #UNIBERTI WWWHOTELALlEROCOM OR THE LESS CONVENIENT 7EEK %ND 6IA -ARTIRI D5NGHERIA WWWPENSIONEWEEKENDIT 3ANTO 3TEFANOS lNEST IS THE THREE STAR "ELVEDERE NEAR THE BEACHES AT 0OGGIO #ALVELLA A SHORT WAY WEST 2ESTAURANTS ARE GENERALLY SWANKY AND OVERPRICED BACK STREET PIZZERIE AND BAR SNACKS ARE THE BEST OPTIONS )F YOURE GOING FOR A BLOWOUT $A 3IRO #ORSO 5MBERTO ) CLOSED -ON HAS QUITE A REPUTATION &OR A MODERATELY PRICED MEAL ,A "USSOLA 0IAZZALE &ACCHINETTI CLOSED -ON IS GOOD FOR lSH OR TRY ,A &ORMICA ONE OF THE MORE POPULAR AND REASONABLE lSH RESTAURANTS AT 0OZZERELLA M EAST 0ORTO %RCOLE
/N THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE !RGENTARIO 0/24/ %2#/,% IS MORE INTIMATE THAN 3ANTO 3TEFANO WITH AN ATTRACTIVE OLD QUARTER AND A lSHING VILLAGE ATMOSPHERE 4HOUGH FOUNDED BY THE 2OMANS ITS CHIEF HISTORICAL MONUMENTS ARE TWO 3PAN ISH FORTRESSES FACING EACH OTHER ON OPPOSING SIDES OF THE HARBOUR AND A THIRD ONE ABOVE THE NEW TOWN !T THE ENTRANCE TO THE OLD TOWN A PLAQUE ON THE STONE GATE COMMEMORATES THE PAINTER #ARAVAGGIO WHO IN KEELED OVER WITH SUNSTROKE ON A BEACH NEARBY TAKEN TO A LOCAL TAVERN HE SOON DIED OF A FEVER AND WAS BURIED IN THE PARISH CHURCH OF 3ANT%RASMO ! COUPLE OF GOOD WALKS SUGGEST THEMSELVES FROM THE VILLAGE THE MOST OBVIOUS BEING ALONG THE 4OMBOLO DI &ENIGLIA SEE P 4HE OTHER IS TO THE TOP OF )L 4ELEGRAFO ACCESSIBLE EITHER BY ROAD AND TRACK FROM THE RIDGE THAT RUNS UP FROM THE LIGHTHOUSE TO THE SOUTH OR ON A ROUGH ROAD THAT LEAVES THE PORT TO THE NORTH AND THEN RUNS WEST UNDER THE MAIN RIDGE 4HE WAY IS FAIRLY OPEN AND SUPERB VIEWS MAKE THE HAUL WORTHWHILE 2EASONABLY PRICED HOTELS ARE LIMITED TO THE ONE STAR #ONCHIGLIA IN 6IA DELLA -ARINA AND THE -ARINA IN ,UNGOMARE ! $ORIA WWWHOTELMARINAIT &OR PRIVATE ROOMS TRY 6ILLA !ZZUR RA 6IA #ARAVAGGIO VILLAAZZURRACAMERE LIBEROIT 4HE MODERATELY PRICED WATERFRONT RESTAURANT 'AMBERO 2OSSO CLOSED 7ED SERVES EXCELLENT lSH
'IGLIO AND 'IANNUTRI
4HE LARGEST OF THE 4USCAN ISLANDS AFTER %LBA 'IGLIO KM WEST OF -ONTE !RGENTARIO IS VISITED BY AN EVER INCREASING NUMBER OF FOREIGN TOURISTS AND IS SO
&ERRIES TO 'IGLIO
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POPULAR WITH HOLIDAYING 2OMANS THAT IN HIGH SEASON YOU MAY lND THAT THERES STANDING ROOM ONLY ON THE FERRIES 9ET ITS WELL WORTH MAKING THE EFFORT TO STAY ON THIS FABULOUS ISLAND THE RUSH IS FAIRLY SHORT LIVED MOST VISITORS ARE DAY TRIP PERS AND FEW OF THEM EXPLORE THE TRACKS ACROSS THE UNSPOILT INTERIOR A MIX OF BARREN ROCK AND REFORESTED UPLAND 4HE ISLAND IS RICH IN FAUNA SUCH AS PEREGRINE FALCONS MOUmON KESTRELS AND BUZZARDS AND IN WILD mOWERS TOO THIS IS THE ONLY PLACE OUTSIDE .ORTH !FRICA TO SHELTER WILD MUSTARD AND THE SOLE SPOT IN 4USCANY TO SUPPORT THE YELLOW mOWERS OF ARTEMISIA 4HE ISLAND DERIVES ITS NAME NOT FROM GIGLIO LILY BUT FROM THE 2OMAN COLONY !EGILIUM IN ITS DAY A RESORT FOR THE RICH AND FAMOUS A FUNCTION IT CONTINUED TO FULlL THROUGHOUT MOST OF THE -IDDLE !GES 'RANITE QUARRIES KEPT THE ECONOMY BUOYANT AND 'IGLIO STONE WAS USED TO CONSTRUCT MANY MEDIEVAL CHURCHES ,ATER PIRATE INCURSIONS TOOK THE EDGE OFF ITS APPEAL DESPITE THE MIRACULOUS DEFENSIVE POWER OF 3T -AMILIANOS RIGHT ARM A RELIC HACKED FROM A SIXTH CENTURY 3ICILIAN BISHOP EXILED ON THE ISLAND OF -ONTECRISTO 4HE LIMB PROVED EFFECTIVE WHEN WAVED AT 4UNISIAN PIRATES IN BUT LESS SO ON OTHER OCCASIONS n NOTABLY IN WHEN "ARBAROSSA CARRIED OFF MOST OF THE ISLANDS POPULATION "OATS DOCK AT THE MAIN TOWN 'IGLIO 0ORTO FROM WHERE THERES AN EXCELLENT BUS SERVICE TO THE ISLANDS TWO OTHER MAIN VILLAGES 'IGLIO #ASTELLO AND 'IGLIO #AMPESE 9OU CAN RENT BIKES OR MOPEDS INEXPENSIVELY FROM 'IGLIO 0ORTO TO EXPLORE AT YOUR OWN PACE 'IGLIO AND THE NEIGHBOURING ISLET OF 'IANNUTRI ARE THE SOUTHERNMOST ISLANDS OF THE 0ARCO .AZIONALE !RCIPELAGO 4OSCANO SEE P
4(% - !2% - - ! 'IGLIO AND 'IANNUTRI
4HE EMBARKATION POINT FOR 'IGLIO IS 0ORTO 3ANTO 3TEFANO SEE P SERVED BY REGU LAR BUSES DIRECT FROM THE TRAIN STATION AT /RBETELLO 3CALO AND ALSO FROM /RBETELLO TOWN "OTH 4OREMAR WWWTOREMARIT AND -AREGIGLIO WWWMAREGIGLIOIT OPERATE FERRIES TO 'IGLIO 0ORTO SUMMER ALMOST HOURLY WINTER n DAILY TAKES HR + ONE WAY )TS USUALLY NO PROBLEM TO BUY YOUR TICKET FROM A QUAYSIDE KIOSK AND BOARD IMMEDIATELY 9OU SHOULD LEAVE YOUR CAR ON THE MAINLAND ITS EXPENSIVE TO TAKE IT ONTO THE ISLAND AT ANY TIME OF YEAR AND IN SUMMER YOU NEED A PERMIT 4HERE ARE PLENTY OF TRUSTWORTHY PARKING COMPANIES ON THE 0ORTO 3ANTO 3TE FANO WATERFRONT THAT CHARGE ROUGHLY + PER DAY PARKING ON THE STREET IS BOTH UNSAFE AND LAYS YOU OPEN TO HEFTY lNES
'IGLIO 0ORTO
3MALL ROCK GIRDLED ')',)/ 0/24/ IS THE PLACE YOURE MOST LIKELY TO STAY ON 'IGLIO AS IT BOASTS EIGHT OF THE ISLANDS THIRTEEN HOTELS )T HAS NO PARTICULAR SIGHTS BUT THE VIEW FROM THE FERRY IS WONDERFUL AS THE TOWN DRAWS CLOSER ITS PALE COL OURED HOUSES OFFSET BY A BACKDROP OF TERRACED VINEYARDS AND FRAMED BETWEEN TWO LIGHTHOUSES n ONE RED ONE GREEN 4HE NARROW HARBOURFRONT IS CRAMMED WITH A MIX OF TOURISTY RESTAURANTS AND BOAT MECHANICS BUT BEHIND THE 4ORRE DEL 3ARACENO BUILT BY &ERDINAND ) IN YOULL lND A TRANQUIL BARELY VISITED LITTLE INLET WITH THE WALL OF A 2OMAN EEL FARM VISIBLE BELOW THE WATERLINE !S MUCH OF THE LAND AROUND RISES SHEER FROM THE SEA THE BEACHES ARE MODEST YOULL lND ONE TO THE NORTH OF THE PORT AT 0UNTA !RANELLA AND A COUPLE TO THE SOUTH AT #ALA DELLE #ANELLE AND #ALA DELLE #ALDANE 9OU CAN RENT BOATS FROM 'IGLIO 9ACHTING -ARINE ON THE PORT 6IA 4HAON DE 2EVEL 4HE "LUE 3CUBA $IVING #LUB WWWBLUESCUBADIVINGCOM ORGANIZES SCUBA COURSES AND DIVING AROUND 'IGLIO AND 'IANNUTRI
4(% - !2% - - !
4HERES A TOURIST OFlCE ON 6IA 0ROVINCIALE WWW ISOLADELGIGLIOUFlCIOTURISTICOCOM WHICH CAN PROVIDE DETAILS OF ACCOMMODA TION OPTIONS n INCLUDING A FAIR NUMBER OF HOUSES AROUND THE PORT THAT HAVE ROOMS TO LET )N HIGH SEASON THE HOTELS GENERALLY OFFER ONLY FULL BOARD AND MOST ARE ALSO OPEN ONLY FROM *UNE TO 3EPTEMBER 4HE ONE TO GO FOR IS THE SMALL THREE STAR 0ARDINIS (ERMITAGE IN THE #ALA DEGLI !LBERI COVE ACCESSIBLE BY BOAT OR ON FOOT WWWlNALSERVITHERMITAGE !PRILn3EPT -ORE MODEST CHOICES INCLUDE ,A 0ERGOLA IN THE PORTS 6IA 4HAON DE 2EVEL $EMOS AT THE END OF THE HARBOUR WITH LOVELY TOP mOOR ROOMS OFFERING A SEA VIEW WWWHOTELDEMOSCOM AND TWO STAR $A 2UGGERO 6IA DEL 3ARACENO 4HE MOST VISITED QUAYSIDE RESTAURANTS ARE $ORIA AND -ARGHERITA BOTH OFFERING STANDARD lSHY SPECIALS THE FOOD AT $EMOS HOTEL IS BETTER AND COMES WITH BEACH VIEWS 4HE PORTS BIG DAY IS !UGUST WHEN LOCALS VIE WITH ONE ANOTHER TO RETRIEVE A mAG TIED TO THE END OF A GREASY POLE OVER THE HARBOUR THE #UCCAGNA A -ARE &URTHER FROLICS ENSUE LATER IN THE DAY DURING THE 0ALIO -ARINARO A COMPETITION AT SEA BETWEEN THE PORTS THREE DISTRICTS
\ 'IGLIO AND 'IANNUTRI
'IGLIO #ASTELLO
')',)/ #!34%,,/ PERCHED AT THE HIGHEST POINT OF THE HILLS UP KM OF HAIRPINS FROM THE PORT WAS FOR A LONG TIME THE ISLANDS ONLY SETTLEMENT AND THE SOLE SPOT SAFE FROM PIRATE ATTACK 3URPRISINGLY WELL PRESERVED ITS MAZE OF ARCHES AND MEDIEVAL ALLEYWAYS IS STILL SURROUNDED BY THICK WALLS "USES STOP NEAR A VINE COVERED PATIO BAR IN THE LARGE 0IAZZA 'LORIOSA ALSO THE ENTRANCE TO THE GRANITE FORTRESS AND MEDIEVAL QUARTER 4HE CASTLE WAS BEGUN BY THE 0ISANS AND COM PLETED BY THE 'RAND $UCHY OF 4USCANY ROUGH PATHS AROUND THE WALLS ENABLE YOU TO CLAMBER OVER THE ROCKS FOR SUPERB VIEWS OVER THE ISLAND AND RUINS FAR BELOW &OR A LOOK AT 3T -AMILIANOS MIRACULOUS ARM CHECK OUT THE "AROQUE CHURCH !CCOMMODATION IS LIMITED TO PRIVATE ROOMS !FlTTACAMERE -ARIO ,ANDINI 6IA #ONTRADA 3ANTA -ARIA IS ONE POSSIBILITY WWWCAMEREALGIGLIO VZECOM OPEN IN SUMMER ONLY $A -ARIA IN 6IA #ASAMATTA IS ONE OF THE ISLANDS BEST MODERATELY PRICED RESTAURANTS CLOSED 7ED 3ANTI 6IA -ARCONI CLOSED -ON IN WINTER IS ANOTHER OPTION 4O EXPLORE 'IGLIOS INTERIOR FOLLOW A MINOR ROAD THAT WINDS FROM #ASTELLO KM SOUTH ALL ALONG THE SPINE OF THE RIDGE TO 0UNTA DEL #APEL 2OSSO THE SOUTHERNMOST TIP OF THE ISLAND n¬A WILD AND LONELY BIKE RIDE OR THREE HOUR HIKE 7ALKING FROM #ASTELLO DOWN TO EITHER #AMPESE OR 0ORTO TAKES LESS THAN AN HOUR 'IGLIO #AMPESE
!T THE WESTERN END OF THE ISLAND ROAD IS THE GROWING RESORT OF ')',)/ #!-0%3% )T HAS THE ISLANDS BEST BEACH A lNE STRETCH OF SAND OVERLOOKED BY A -EDICI TOWER AND CURVING FOR KM FROM A HUGE PHALLIC ROCK WHICH THE TOUR IST BROCHURES ARE TOO MODEST TO PHOTOGRAPH !ROUND THE BASE OF THE TOWER IS A MODERN TURRETED APARTMENT COMPLEX WITH A COUPLE OF RESTAURANTS TENNIS COURTS AND ALL MANNER OF WATERSPORTS FACILITIES n INCLUDING DIVE SHOPS WITH LESSONS AND GEAR TO RENT 4HE RESORT HAS FOUR HOTELS CHEAPEST OF WHICH ARE ,A ,AMPARA 6IA 0ROVINCIALE AND 'IARDINO DELLE 0ALME 6IA DELLA 4ORRE LEPALME INTERFREEIT /THERWISE TRY THE $A 'IO VANNI 6IA DI -EZZO &RANCO PINIPAOLA TISCALINETIT WHILE TOP OF THE RANGE WITH PRIVATE BEACH IS THE THREE STAR #AMPESE 6IA DELLA 4ORRE OPEN ONLY IN SUMMER 4HERES ALSO A CAMPSITE "AIA DEL 3OLE BAIADELSOLE mASHNETIT
'IANNUTRI 4HE SOUTHERNMOST 4USCAN ISLAND ')!..542) A ROCKY HALF MOON ISLET KM SOUTH OF 'IGLIO IS PRIVATELY OWNED AND OVERNIGHT STAYS ARE IMPOSSIBLE UNLESS YOURE A FRIEND OF THE INHABITANTS 4HE FEW PEOPLE WHO COME OVER FOR THE DAY DO SO TO DIVE OR TO VISIT THE RUINS OF A 2OMAN VILLA AT #ALA -AESTRA 'IVEN THE ISLANDS PHYSICAL MAKE UP n mAT AND WALKABLE END TO END IN TWO HOURS n ITS A PLACE FOR ISLAND OBSESSIVES ONLY $AY TRIPS + ARE RUN BY -AREGIGLIO SEE BOX P WITH DEPARTURES FROM 'IGLIO 0ORTO AND IN SUMMER DIRECT FROM 0ORTO 3ANTO 3TEFANO
!NSEDONIA AND ,AGO DI "URANO !.3%$/.)! CROUCHES UNDER A ROCKY CRAG AT THE END OF THE 4OMBOLO DI &ENIGLIA 0EPPERED WITH HOLIDAY VILLAS IT HAS A LONG BEACH AND ON THE HILLTOP ABOVE THE REMAINS OF #OSA FOUNDED BY THE 2OMANS IN "# AS A FRONTIER POST AGAINST THE %TRUSCANS )T WAS ONE OF THEIR MOST IMPORTANT COMMERCIAL CEN TRES IN THE AREA UNTIL ITS POPULATION n ACCORDING TO THE HISTORIAN 2UTILIUS n WAS DRIVEN OUT BY AN ARMY OF MICE -OST OF THE OLD MUNICIPIUM WAS DEVASTATED BY THE 6ISIGOTHS IN THE FOURTH CENTURY AND WHAT SURVIVED WAS SACKED BY THE 3IENESE IN 2ECENT EXCAVATIONS HAVE EXPOSED ENOUGH OF THE 2OMAN COLONY TO SUGGEST SOME IDEA OF ITS FORMER LAYOUT 4O REACH THE SITE DAILY AMnPM /CTn!PRIL CLOSES PM FREE LEAVE !NSE DONIA ON THE ROAD EAST PASSING A COUPLE OF MEDIEVAL TOWERS CONVERTED INTO HOUSES AND THE 4AGLIATA %TRUSCA A SERIES OF CUTS INTO THE ROCK BELIEVED TO HAVE BEEN PART OF A SYSTEM TO DRAIN THE MARSHLAND !FTER ABOUT KM WHERE THE ROAD BENDS SHARP RIGHT THERES A SIGNED TRACK TO #OSA OFF TO THE LEFT 9OULL lND A RING OF WALLS M HIGH IN PLACES THE REMAINS OF A DEFENSIVE CORDON OF EIGHTEEN TOWERS 4HERES ALSO THE OUTLINE OF THE GRIDIRON STREET PLAN A FORUM WITH BASILICA AND SENATE DISCERNIBLE NEARBY TWO TEMPLES AND SOME MOSA ICS AND WALL PAINTINGS )TS WORTH CLIMBING TO THE TOP OF THE HILL NOT ONLY TO SEE THE REMAINS OF THE ACROPOLIS BUT ALSO FOR lNE VIEWS ACROSS TO 'IANNUTRI AND -ONTE !RGENTARIO (ALFWAY UP THE HILL IS A SMALL -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO SAME HOURS + HOUSING SOME OF THE SITES lNDS .EAR THE 4AGLIATA %TRUSCA STANDS THE TWO STAR HOTEL 6INICIO 6IA DELLE -IMOSE VINICIO OUVERTUREIT
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3OUTH OF /RBETELLO MOST OF THE TERRAIN IS A DRAB FORETASTE OF THE EXPANSES OF ,AZIO BUT THERE ARE SEVERAL WORTHWHILE DIVERSIONS !T !NSEDONIA YOU CAN INSPECT ONE OF 4USCANYS FEW ANCIENT 2OMAN SITES BEFORE MOVING ON TO THE IMPORTANT NATURE RESERVE AT ,AGO DI "URANO )NLAND #APÉLBIO RATES AS ONE OF THE AREAS LOVELIEST VILLAGES WHILE NEAR #HIARONE WHICH HAS lNE BEACHES IS THE 'IARDINO DEI 4AROCCHI A SMALL PARK OF MONUMENTAL SCULPTURES THATS QUICKLY BECOMING BOTH A TOURIST ATTRACTION AND ARTISTIC TALKING POINT
4(% - !2% - - ! 3OUTH OF /RBETELLO
3OUTH OF /RBETELLO
,AGO DI "URANO
9OU CAN WALK TO THE ,AGO DI "URANO ALONG THE BEACH FROM !NSEDONIA OR CATCH A SLOW TRAIN FROM /RBETELLO TO #APÉLBIO 3CALO LESS THAN M FROM THE WATER 4ECHNICALLY A LAGOON RATHER THAN A LAKE "URANO IS A PLACID STRETCH OF WATER SHIELDED FROM THE SEA BY VEGETATION COVERED DUNES #OMPLETING THE SCENIC
4(% - !2% - - !
PICTURE n WHICH IS CAPTIVATING AT DUSK WITH THE SUN BEHIND -ONTE !RGENTARIO n IS A SUPERB AND MYSTERIOUS LOOKING TOWER THE 4ORRE DI "URINACCIO 4HOUGH YOU CAN WALK ONTO THE ENCLOSING BEACH ACCESS TO THE LAGOON ITSELF IS RESTRICTED AS "URANO IS A PROTECTED NATURE RESERVE 2ECOGNIZED AS A WETLAND HABITAT OF INTERNATIONAL SIGNIlCANCE THIS AND THE /RBETELLO LAGOON SEE P ARE TOGETHER RATED AS THE MOST IMPORTANT AREA FOR BIRDS ON )TALYS WEST COAST 4HE LAGOON SHARES MANY OF THE SPECIES FOUND IN /RBETELLO AND FOR SIMILAR REASONS THE LAGOON HERE IS ALSO ONLY M DEEP .OTABLE SPECIES INCLUDE THE BLUETHROAT GREAT SPOTTED CUCKOO GREAT WHITE HERON AND VELVET SCOTER 4HE ENTRANCE TO THE RESERVE IS ON THE PERIMETER ROAD M EAST OF THE STATION 'UIDED WALKS 3EPTn!PRIL 4HURS 3UN AM PM + FOLLOW THE NATURE TRAIL THAT TAKES IN THE DUNE WOODLAND AND SCRUB HABITATS AROUND THE LAKE STOPPING AT THE OBSERVATION POINTS EN ROUTE 4HE !GRIALBERGO #APALBIO 3TRADA DELLA 3UGHERELLA IS A ONE STAR HOTEL NEAR #APÉLBIO 3CALO STATION CAMPING IS PROHIBITED
#HIARONE AND INLAND
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#()!2/.% IS NOTHING MORE THAN A STATION AND A COUPLE OF BARS THOUGH ITS BEACHES n lFTEEN MINUTES WALK AWAY n ARE SOME OF THE BEST AND QUIETEST ON THIS PART OF THE COAST 4HE VIRGIN COASTAL STRETCH IS COMMONLY REGARDED AS ENJOY ING THE lRST UNPOLLUTED WATER NORTH OF 2OME KM OF UNBROKEN SAND STRETCH AWAY TOWARDS -ONTE !RGENTARIO WITH PLENTY OF OPPORTUNITIES FOR CAMPING IN THE DUNES 4HINGS GET GRUBBY ON SHORE AS THE SUMMER WEARS ON BUT THE GENTLE SHELVING SEABED MAKES FOR GOOD SWIMMING AND ALL IT TAKES FOR SOLITUDE ON THE SAND IS A FEW MINUTES WALK ! HANDFUL OF TRAINS TO AND FROM 'ROSSETO STOP AT #HIARONE STATION 4HERES ONE HOTEL ,A 0ALMA 6IA DEL #HIARONE WWWALBERGOLAPALMA COM !T THE END OF THE ROAD TO THE DUNES IS THE BEACH BAR RESTAURANT AND CAMPSITE )L #AMPEGGIO DI #APALBIO 6IA 'RATICCIAIA WWW CAMPINGCAPALBIOIT MID !PRIL TO 3EPT 4HE 'IARDINO DEI 4AROCCHI
"Y CAR FROM #HIARONE ITS POSSIBLE TO VISIT ONE OF )TALYS ODDEST AND INCREAS INGLY WELL KNOWN WORKS OF MODERN ART )L 'IARDINO DEI 4AROCCHI 4HE 4AROT 'ARDEN -AY TO MID /CT DAILY nPM + WWW NIKIDESAINTPHALLECOM A HUGE SET OF SCULPTURES BY .IKI DE 3AINT 0HALLE WHO DIED IN AND IS MOST FAMOUS FOR THE &ONTAINE 3TRAVINSKY CREATED WITH HER HUSBAND *EAN 4INGUELY OUTSIDE THE 0OMPIDOU #ENTRE IN 0ARIS 4HE BRIGHTLY COLOURED PIECES ARE CLEARLY VISIBLE FROM THE 6IA !URELIA TO REACH THEM ITS A lVE KILOMETRE DRIVE ON THE ROAD FROM #HIARONE TO 0ESCIA &IORENTINA 5SING LAND DONATED BY FRIENDS THE WORK TOOK ALMOST SEVENTEEN YEARS TO COM PLETE n AND THE RESULT IS A TRULY STAGGERING SIGHT n A WHIMSICAL MIX OF 'AUDÓ ARCANE SYMBOLISM AND SHEER FUN THAT CHILDREN LOVE AND WHICH INSPIRES BEWILDERED ADMIRATION IN ADULTS %ACH PIECE REPRESENTS ONE OF THE 4AROTS TWEN TY TWO MAJOR ARCANA 0LANTS AND FOUNTAINS FORM AN INTEGRAL PART OF THE SCHEME #APÉLBIO
3TRANDED IN EMPTY COUNTRY THE HILL VILLAGE OF #!0,")/ IS VIRTUALLY UNKNOWN TO OUTSIDERS THOUGH NOT TO 2OMES CULTURAL AND POLITICAL ELITE MANY OF WHOM HAVE HOMES IN THE LOCALITY -OST ARE ATTRACTED BY THE ALMOST PERFECTLY MEDIEVAL INTERIOR WHICH AT NIGHT IS A DEATHLY QUIET MAZE OF STREETS STRAIGHT OUT OF THE -IDDLE !GES 6IEWS ARE SUPERB AND THOUGH THERES LITTLE TO SEE APART FROM
A FEW FRESCOES AND THE !LDOBRANDESCHI FORTIlCATIONS IT DElNITELY WARRANTS A LOOK IF YOURE TOURING BY CAR THERE ARE ALSO THREE BUSES DAILY FROM /RBETELLO 4HERE ARE SEVERAL RESTAURANTS TO CHOOSE FROM INCLUDING THE SUPERB MODERATELY PRICED 4RATTORIA LA 4ORRE DA #ARLA 6IA 6 %MMANUELE CLOSED 4HURS IN THE HEART OF THE OLD TOWN 4HE TWO STAR HOTEL ,A -IMOSA IS ON 6IA 4ORINO SEVERAL KILOMETRES OUT OF #APÉLBIO TOWARDS THE 6IA !URE LIA WHILE THE HOTELRESIDENCE 6ALLE DEL "UTTERO 6IA 3ILONE WWWVALLEDELBUTTEROIT IS MORE CENTRAL
4RAINS
"USES &OLLØNICA TO #ASTIGLIONE DAILY MIN 0UNTA !LA DAILY MIN 3CARLINO DAILY MIN
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'ROSSETO TO #APÉLBIO HOURLY MIN &OLLØNICA HOURLY MIN CHANGE FOR -ASSA -ARÓTTIMA &LOR ENCE DAILY VIA 3IENA nHR /RBETELLO HOURLY MIN 2OME HOURLY HR MINnHR MIN 3IENA DAILY HR MIN
'ROSSETO TO #ASTIGLIONE DELLA 0ESCAIA HOURLY MIN &LORENCE DAILY HR MIN -ASSA -ARÓTTIMA DAILY HR MIN /RBETELLO DAILY HR 2OCCATEDERIGHI DAILY HR MIN 3CANSANO DAILY HR MIN 3IENA DAILY HR MIN -ASSA -ARÓTTIMA TO &OLLØNICA EVERY MIN MIN 'ROSSETO DAILY HR MIN 0IOMBINO DAILY MIN 3IENA DAILY HR MIN /RBETELLO TO #APÉLBIO DAILY MIN 'ROSSETO DAILY HR 0ORTO %RCOLE DAILY MIN 0ORTO 3ANTO 3TEFANO DAILY MIN
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1 -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO ! TREASURE CHEST OF RELIGIOUS ART THAT ALSO GIVES ACCESS TO 4USCA NYS GIDDIEST VIEWPOINT ATOP THE WALLS OF THE $UOMOS ABANDONED NEW NAVE 3EE P
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4HOUGH MYTH ATTRIBUTES ITS ORIGINS TO 3ENIUS AND !CIUS SONS OF 2EMUS HENCE THE SHE WOLF EMBLEM OF THE CITY 3IENA WAS IN FACT FOUNDED BY THE %TRUSCANS AND REFOUNDED AS A 2OMAN COLONY n 3AENA *ULIA n BY !UGUSTUS /VER THE COURSE OF THE NEXT MILLENNIUM IT GREW TO BE AN INDEPENDENT REPUBLIC AND IN THE THIR TEENTH AND FOURTEENTH CENTURIES WAS ONE OF THE MAJOR CITIES OF %UROPE )T WAS ALMOST THE SIZE OF 0ARIS CONTROLLED MOST OF SOUTHERN 4USCANY AND ITS mOURISHING WOOL INDUSTRY DOMINATED THE TRADE ROUTES FROM &RANCE TO 2OME AND MAIN TAINED )TALYS RICHEST BANKS 4HE CITY ALSO DEVELOPED A HIGHLY SOPHISTICATED CIVIC LIFE WITH ITS OWN WRITTEN CONSTITUTION AND A QUASI DEMOCRATIC COUNCIL n THE COMUNE )T WAS IN THIS GREAT PERIOD THAT THE CITY WAS SHAPED AND IN WHICH MOST OF ITS ART AND MONUMENTS ARE ROOTED 4HIS GOLDEN ERA WHEN THE 2EPUBLIC OF 3IENA CONTROLLED A GREAT AREA OF CENTRAL AND SOUTHERN 4USCANY REACHED AN APOTHEOSIS WITH THE DEFEAT OF A MUCH SUPERIOR &LORENTINE ARMY AT THE "ATTLE OF -ONTAPERTI IN !LTHOUGH THE RESULT WAS REVERSED NINE YEARS LATER SHIFTING THE FULCRUM OF POLITICAL POWER TOWARDS &LORENCE 3IENAS MERCHANTS AND MIDDLE CLASSES n THE SO CALLED 0OPOLO 'RASSO n EMBARKED ON AN UNRIVALLED URBAN DEVELOPMENT FROM TO UNDER THE RULE OF THE #OUNCIL OF .INE THE CITY UNDERWROTE lRST THE COMPLETION OF THE $UOMO AND THEN THE EXTRAORDINARY #AMPO WITH ITS EXUBERANT 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO 3IENESE BANKERS MEANWHILE HAD SPREAD THEIR OPERATIONS THROUGHOUT %UROPE AND WITH $UCCIO -ARTINI AND THE ,ORENZETTIS THE CITY WAS AT THE FORE FRONT OF )TALIAN ART 0ROSPERITY AND INNOVATION CAME TO AN ABRUPT HALT WITH THE "LACK $EATH WHICH REACHED 3IENA IN -AY "Y /CTOBER WHEN THE DISEASE HAD RUN ITS COURSE THE POPULATION HAD DROPPED FROM TO 4HE CITY WAS NEVER FULLY TO RECOVER THE POPULATION TODAY IS AROUND AND ITS POLITICS ALWAYS FACTIONAL MOVED INTO A PERIOD OF INTRIGUE AND CHAOS )TS ART TOO BECAME HIGHLY CONSERVATIVE AS PATRONS LOOKED BACK TO THE OLD HIERARCHICAL RELIGIOUS IMAGES 4HE CHIEF lGURES IN THESE WAR RIDDEN AND ANARCHIC YEARS WERE THE CITYS TWO NATION ALLY RENOWNED SAINTS #ATERINA n AND "ERNARDINO n WHO BOTH EXERCISED ENORMOUS INmUENCE AMID TWO FURTHER OUTBREAKS OF THE PLAGUE !S THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY OPENED A PERIOD OF AUTOCRATIC RULE UNDER THE TYRAN NICAL 0ANDOLFO 0ETRUCCI THE SELF STYLED )L -AGNIlCO BROUGHT A FURTHER MILITARY VICTORY OVER &LORENCE BUT ENDED WITH THE CITY EMBROILED IN EVER EXPANDING INTRIGUES INVOLVING THE "ORGIAS THE &LORENTINES THE PAPACY THE &RENCH AND THE EMPIRE OF #HARLES 6 4HE LAST PROVED TOO BIG TO HANDLE FOR THE 3IENESE IMPERIAL TROOPS IMPOSED A FORTRESS AND GARRISON AND THEN AFTER THE 3IENESE HAD TURNED TO THE &RENCH FOR HELP TO EXPEL THEM THE IMPERIALS LAID SIEGE TO THE CITY AND THE SURROUNDING COUNTRYSIDE 4HE EFFECTS OF THE SIEGE n PROVED MORE TERRIBLE EVEN THAN THE "LACK $EATH WITH THE POPULATION PLUMMETING FROM TO AS FEW AS 4HE REPUBLIC WAS OVER ALTHOUGH A BAND OF LOYALISTS n COMPRISING AROUND FAMILIES n TOOK REFUGE AT -ONTALCINO AND PROLONGED IT THERE FOR A WHILE AT LEAST IN NAME 4WO YEARS AFTER THE SIEGE 0HILIP )) #HARLESS SUCCESSOR GAVE UP 3IENA TO #OSIMO ) &LORENCES -EDICI OVERLORD IN PAYMENT FOR WAR SERVICES THE CITY SUBSEQUENTLY BECOMING PART OF #OSIMOS 'RAND $UCHY OF 4USCANY 4HIS WAS THE DEATH KNELL &OR SIXTY YEARS THE 3IENESE WERE FORBIDDEN EVEN TO OPERATE BANKS WHILE CONTROL OF WHAT WAS BY NOW AN INCREASINGLY MINOR PROVINCIAL TOWN REVERTED UNDER -EDICI PATRONAGE TO THE NOBLES 3IENAS SWIFT DECLINE FROM REPUBLICAN CAPITAL TO LITTLE MORE THAN A MARKET CENTRE EXPLAINS THE CITYS ASTONISHING STATE OF MEDIEVAL PRESERVATION ,ITTLE WAS BUILT AND STILL LESS DEMOLISHED WHILE ALLOTMENTS AND VINEYARDS OCCUPIED THE SPACES
3IENAS CONTRADE 7ITHIN THE FABRIC OF THE MEDIEVAL CITY 3IENA PRESERVES ITS ANCIENT DIVISION INTO WARDS OR CONTRADE 4HESE ARE INTEGRAL TO THE COMPETITION OF THE 0ALIO SEE SECOND COLOUR INSERT AND SUSTAIN A UNIQUE NEIGHBOURHOOD IDENTITY CLEARLY VISIBLE AS YOU WANDER AROUND THE STREETS %ACH OF THE SEVENTEEN CONTRADE HAS ITS OWN CHURCH SOCIAL CENTRE AND MUSEUM AS WELL AS A mAG AND HERALDIC ANIMAL MOTIF AFTER WHICH MOST OF THEM TAKE THEIR NAMES 4HE ANIMALS n GIRAFFE SNAIL GOOSE PORCUPINE AND OTHERS n CAN BE SEEN ALL AROUND THE CITY ON WALL PLAQUES AND ARE REPRESENTED IN A SERIES OF MODERN FOUNTAINS NEAR THE CONTRADA CHURCHES OR HEADQUARTERS IN EACH OF THE CITYS THREE TERZI
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!QUILA n %AGLE #ITTÌ #ASATO DI 3OTTO WWWCONTRADADELLAQUILAIT "RUCO n #ATERPILLAR #AMOLLIA 6IA DEL #OMUNE #HIOCCIOLA n 3NAIL #ITTÌ 6IA 3AN -ARCO WWWCHIOCCIOLAORG #IVETTA n /WL 3AN -ARTINO 0IAZZETTA DEL #ASTELLARE $RAGO n $RAGON #AMOLLIA 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI WWW CONTRADADELDRAGOIT 'IRAFFA n 'IRAFFE #AMOLLIA 6IA DELLE 6ERGINI WWWCOMUNE SIENAITGIRAFFA )STRICE n 0ORCUPINE #AMOLLIA 6IA #AMOLLIA WWWISTRICEORG ,EOCORNO n 5NICORN 3AN -ARTINO 6IA DI &OLLONICO ,UPA n 3HE 7OLF #AMOLLIA 6IA DI 6ALLEROZZI .ICCHIO n 3HELL 3AN -ARTINO 6IA DEI 0ISPINI WWW NOBILECONTRADADELNICCHIOIT /CA n 'OOSE #AMOLLIA 6ICOLO DEL 4IRATOIO WWWCONTRADADELLOCA IT /NDA n 7AVE #ITTÌ 6IA 'IOVANNI $UPRÏ WWWCONTRADACAPIT ANADELLONDAIT 0ANTERA n 0ANTHER #ITTÌ 6IA 3AN 1UIRICO 3ELVA n &OREST #ITTÌ 0IAZZETTA DELLA 3ELVA WWWCONTRADADELLASELVA IT 4ARTUCA n 4URTLE #ITTÌ 6IA 4OMMASO 0ENDOLA WWWTARTUCAIT 4ORRE n 4OWER 3AN -ARTINO 6IA 3ALICOTTO WWWCONTRADADELLATORRE IT 6ALDIMONTONE n 2AM 3AN -ARTINO 6IA DI 6ALDIMONTE WWW VALDIMONTEIT 4HERE WERE ONCE SOCIAL DISTINCTIONS BETWEEN THE CONTRADE AND ALTHOUGH TODAY THESE ARE BLURRED TO THE POINT OF EXTINCTION ALLEGIANCE TO ONES CONTRADA n CONFERRED BY BIRTH n REMAINS A STRONG ELEMENT OF SOCIAL LIFE !FTER A CONVENTIONAL CHURCH BAPTISM ANYONE BORN IN A WARD DIVISION IS BAPTIZED FOR A SECOND TIME IN THEIR CONTRADA FOUNTAIN 3UB SEQUENTLY THE CONTRADA PLAYS A CENTRAL ROLE IN ACTIVITIES FOR KIDS IN THE mAG TWIRLING AND DRUMMING FOR THE 0ALIO AND LOCAL CONTRADA FESTIVALS FOR ADULTS IN THE SOCIAL CLUBS n A MIX OF BAR AND DINING CLUB n AND IN THE ATTENDANCE OF A HERALD AT MARRIAGES AND FUNERALS #ONTRADE ALSO DISPENSE SOCIAL ASSISTANCE TO NEEDY MEMBERS 4HE RESPECT ACCORDED TO THE INSTITUTION OF CONTRADE IS SAID TO HAVE A SIGNIlCANT EFFECT ON THE CITYS SOCIAL COHESION #ERTAINLY FOR A CITY OF ITS SIZE 3IENA HAS REMARKABLY LOW LEVELS OF CRIME AND DRUG USAGE )NDEED THE ONLY VIOLENCE TOLERATED IS DURING THE 0ALIO WHEN CONTRADA MEMBERS MAY GET INTO lGHTS WITH THEIR ANCIENT RIVALS &OR AN INSIGHT INTO THE WORKINGS OF THE CONTRADE IT IS WORTH PAYING A VISIT TO ONE OF THEIR MUSEUMS EACH OF WHICH GIVES PRIDE OF PLACE TO ITS DISPLAYS OF 0ALIO TROPHIES !LL THE MUSEUMS ARE OPEN TO VISITORS DURING THE BUILD UP TO THE 0ALIO AND AT OTHER TIMES BY APPOINTMENT ASK THE TOURIST OFlCE TO PHONE %ACH CONTRADA ALSO HAS ITS OWN ANNUAL CELEBRATION ACCOMPANIED BY PARADES AND FEASTS !ND AT ALMOST ANY TIME OF YEAR YOULL SEE GROUPS PRACTISING mAG WAVING AND DRUM ROLLING IN THE STREETS
-OST INTERCITY BUSES ARRIVE IN THE CITY CENTRE ON 6IALE &EDERICO 4OZZI THE ROAD RUNNING ALONGSIDE 0IAZZA 'RAMSCI OR AT ,A ,IZZA NEARBY BUT NOTE THAT SOME STOP NEAR THE CHURCH OF 3AN $OMENICO WHILE OTHERS AVOID THE CENTRE ALTOGETHER AND TERMINATE AT THE TRAIN STATION INSTEAD 4ICKET OFlCES BENEATH 0IAZZA 'RAMSCI HAVE INFORMATION ON ALL ROUTES 4HE BUS COMPANY SERVING 3IENA AND ITS HINTERLAND IS CALLED 42! ). WWWTRAINSPAIT WHICH CONFUSINGLY HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH TRAINS 3IENAS TRAIN STATION IS INCONVENIENTLY SITED AT 0IAZZA &RATELLI 2OSSELLI DOWN IN THE VALLEY KM NORTHEAST OF TOWN )TS FOYER HAS A SMALL TRAIN INFORMATION OFlCE EXCHANGE FACILITIES BASIC TOURIST INFORMATION AND A COUNTER SELLING CITY BUS TICKETS 4O GET INTO TOWN TAKE JUST ABOUT ANY CITY BUS HEADING LEFT TO 4OZZI TO 'ARIBALDI3ALE TO 'RAMSCI !LL THESE DROP AT VARIOUS POINTS ON OR NEAR 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI OR 0IAZZA 'RAMSCI ON THE NORTHERN EDGE OF THE CENTRE )F IN DOUBT ASK AT THE INFORMATION DESK ,OCAL CITY TAXIS ARE TO BE FOUND AT RANKS BY THE TRAIN STATION AND ON 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI OR CAN BE CALLED ELSEWHERE BETWEEN AM AND PM BY PHONE .OTE HOWEVER THAT IN 3IENA ITS VIRTUALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO BOOK TAXIS IN ADVANCE AND YOU SHOULD ALLOW PLENTY OF TIME FOR CABS TO REACH YOU THROUGH THE CITYS LABYRINTHINE ONE WAY SYSTEM 0ARKING IN 3IENA CAN BE A PROBLEM 0ARKING GARAGES WWWSIENAPARCHEGGI COM ARE CLEARLY SIGNPOSTED SECURE AND AFFORDABLE BUT THE TWO BIGGEST ARE MISLEADINGLY NAMED h0ARCHEGGIO )L #AMPOv IS A LONG WAY FROM THE #AMPO JUST INSIDE THE 0ORTA 4Ul AND h0ARCHEGGIO )L $UOMOv IS JUST WITHIN 0ORTA 3AN -ARCO NOWHERE NEAR THE $UOMO 3TREET PARKING OUTSIDE THE CITY WALLS IS FREE INSIDE THE WALLS IT CAN BE EXPENSIVE AND HARD TO lND &OLLOW SIGNS TO THE CENTRO AND TRY TO lND A PARKING SPACE AT ONE OF THE FOLLOWING AROUND 0IAZZA 'RAMSCI OR THE LARGE TRIANGLE OF ,A ,IZZA OPPOSITE 3AN $OMENICO IN THE CAR PARK ALONG SIDE THE STADIUM OFF THE 6IALE -ANZONI WHICH LOOPS AROUND THE NORTHEAST WALL OF THE CITY OR AROUND THE 0ORTA 2OMANA 6IALE -ANZONI IS FREE PARKING AT THE OTHERS A MACHINE OR AN ATTENDANT ISSUES TICKETS USUALLY BY THE HOUR RATES ARE REASONABLE )F YOU KNOW YOULL BE DRIVING IN YOUD DO WELL TO ARRANGE PARKING WITH YOUR HOTEL IN ADVANCE 9OU CAN DRIVE THROUGH THE OLD TOWN ALLEYS ONLY IN ORDER TO LOAD OR UNLOAD BAGGAGE AT YOUR HOTEL .OTE THAT YOU CANNOT PARK AROUND ,A ,IZZA ON 7EDNESDAY MORNINGS AMnPM WHEN THE MARKET TAKES PLACE OFFENDING CARS ARE TOWED AWAY
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!RRIVAL AND INFORMATION
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BETWEEN THE ANCIENT QUARTERS AS THEY DO TODAY 4HIS NEAR PRISTINE STATE ALSO REmECTS ITS ESCAPING WAR DAMAGE IN AND UNLIKE NEARBY 0OGGIBONSI AND OTHER 4USCAN TOWNS 3IENA WAS TAKEN UNOPPOSED BY THE &RENCH %XPEDI TIONARY &ORCE ON *ULY 3INCE THE LAST WAR HOWEVER 3IENA HAS AGAIN BECOME PROSPEROUS PARTLY DUE TO TOURISM PARTLY TO THE RESURGENCE OF THE -ONTE DEI 0ASCHI DI 3IENA 4HIS BANK FOUNDED IN 3IENA IN IS ONE OF THE MAJOR PLAYERS IN )TALIAN lNANCE AND IN ITS HOME BASE IS ONE OF THE CITYS LARGEST EMPLOYERS 4HE -ONTE DEI 0ASCHI COEXISTS APPARENTLY EASILY ENOUGH WITH ONE OF )TALYS STRONGEST LEFT WING COUNCILS 4HOUGH THIS QUIET RATHER BOURGEOIS PROVINCIAL CAPITAL MAY NOT LOOK LIKE A RED CITY SOME OF THE POPULATION OF 3IENA PROVINCE ARE CARD CARRYING 0$3 OR #OMMUNIST 0ARTY MEMBERS n A LOYALTY PARTLY WON BY THE COMMUNISTS ROLE IN THE RESISTANCE DURING THE LAST WAR
4RANSPORT FROM &LORENCE &ROM &LORENCE HOURLY OR MORE FREQUENT 42! ). BUSES BOUND FOR 3IENA DEPART FROM THE BUS STATION ON 6IA DI #ATERINA DA 3IENA JUST WEST OF THE MAIN TRAIN STATION BE SURE TO JUMP ON A #ORSE 2APIDE OR 2APIDO ABOUT HR MIN + BOUGHT IN ADVANCE + ON BOARD AS SOME BUSES MISLEADINGLY CALLED #ORSE $IRETTE OR $IRETTA ARE MUCH SLOWER AND RUN VIA #OLLE DI 6AL D%LSA AND 0OGGIBONSI HR MIN + IN ADVANCE + ON BOARD "OTH SERVICES ARRIVE AT ,A ,IZZA 0IAZZA 'RAMSCI 3OME TRAINS RUN DIRECT TO 3IENA FASTEST JOURNEY HR MIN BUT MANY INVOLVE CHANGING AT %MPOLI ABOUT HR MIN "Y CAR THE TWO CITIES ARE LINKED BY A FAST FOUR LANE HIGHWAY THAT STARTS FROM THE &IRENZE #ERTOSA JUNCTION ON THE ! AUTOSTRADA KM SOUTH OF &LORENCE FROM CENTRAL &LORENCE HEAD THROUGH THE /LTRARNO TO THE 0ORTA 2OMANA AND FOLLOW h#ERTOSAv SIGNS
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\ !CCOMMODATION
)NFORMATION 3IENAS MAIN TOURIST OFlCE IS AT 0IAZZA DEL #AMPO -ONn3AT AMnPM WWWTERRESIENAIT )T PROVIDES HOTEL LISTS A TOWN MAP AND A RANGE OF INFORMATION BOOKLETS h%CCO 3IENAv GUIDED WALKS IN %NGLISH START FROM THE #AMPO !PRILn/CT -ONn&RI PM + PER PERSON BOOK WITH THE TOURIST OFlCE 3IENA (OTELS 0ROMOTION WWWHOTELSIENA COM OR VISIT WWWGUIDESIENAIT
!CCOMMODATION 3ECURING A HOTEL ROOM IN 3IENA FOR ANY TIME BETWEEN %ASTER AND /CTOBER REQUIRES BOOKING SIX MONTHS IN ADVANCE )F YOU ARRIVE WITHOUT A BOOKING AND lND THAT ALL THE ESTABLISHMENTS LISTED BELOW ARE FULL MAKE YOUR WAY TO THE 3IENA (OTELS 0ROMOTION BOOTH -ONn3AT AMnPM WINTER CLOSES PM WWWHOTELSIENACOM OPPOSITE THE CHURCH OF 3AN $OMEN ICO ON 0IAZZA -ADRE 4ERESA DI #ALCUTTA 4HE STAFF HERE ARE GENERALLY VERY HELP FUL AND CAN BOOK ROOMS IN ANY OF THE CITYS HOTELS 4HE CITYS SECOND SPECIALIST AGENCY 6ACANZE 3ENESI IS SITUATED IN THE TOURIST OFlCE AT 0IAZZA DEL #AMPO -ONn&RI AMnPM WWWVACANZESENESIIT )L #ASATO "OOKING 3ERVICE IS ANOTHER OPTION JUST OFF THE #AMPO AT 6IA DEL #ASATO DI 3OTTO -ONn3AT AMnPM WWWSIENAHOLIDAY COM WHERE YOU CAN ALSO BUY BUS TICKETS AND RENT BIKES !LL ACCOMMODATION REVIEWED IN THIS SECTION IS LOCATED ON A MAP CENTRAL PLACES ON PPn OUTLYING OPTIONS ON P (OTELS
!NTICA 2ESIDENZA #ICOGNA 6IA DEI 4ERMINI WWWANTICARESIDENZACI COGNAIT ! LITTLE KNOWN BED AND BREAKFAST OPTION IN A PERFECT IF TUCKED AWAY LOCATION NEAR THE /STERIA DEL &ICOMEZZO 4HE OWNER %LISA 4REFOLONI IS CHARMING AND THERE ARE lVE ROOMS ALL FRESCOED DELIGHTFULLY APPOINTED AND RECENTLY RESTORED n THE h,IBERTYv AND h,EONIv ROOMS ARE ESPECIALLY NICE !LL HAVE PRIVATE BATHROOM "REAKFAST IS TAKEN IN AN EXTRAORDINARY HIGH CEILINGED ROOM WITH COLOSSAL BEAMS 2OOMS WITH BREAKFAST FOR TWO ARE A BARGAIN AT +
!NTICA 4ORRE 6IA &IERAVECCHIA WWWANTICATORRESIENAIT "Y FAR THE NICEST AND MOST INTIMATE OF THE THREE STAR PLACES JUST EIGHT SMALLISH ROOMS SQUEEZED INTO AN OLD MEDIEVAL TOWER 4OP ROOMS HAVE VIEWS
"ERNINI 6IA DELLA 3APIENZA WWWALBERGOBERNINICOM .INE INEXPENSIVE BUT RATHER POKEY ONE STAR ROOMS MOST EN SUITE #ANNON D/RO 6IA -ONTANINI WWWCANNODOROCOM ! STYLISH THIRTY ROOM TWO STAR HOTEL TUCKED DOWN AN ALLEYWAY JUST BEYOND
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PIANO BAR IS A DUBIOUS AFTERTHOUGHT HORRIBLY OUT OF KEEPING WITH THE HOTELS SENSE OF TASTE AND STYLE /THERWISE THIS IS lRST CHOICE FOR A TREAT OR IF MONEY IS NO OBJECT BE PREPARED TO SAY GOODBYE TO AROUND + NIGHTLY LESS FOR UPPER ROOMS UNDER THE EAVES OR IF YOU GO THROUGH A TOUR OPERATOR ,A 0ERLA 6IA DELLE 4ERME INFO ALBERGOLAPERLAIT 2EGULAR ONE STAR WITH THIRTEEN ROOMS ALL WITH BATHROOM IN A VERY CENTRAL LOCATION TWO BLOCKS NORTH OF THE #AMPO #URFEW AM ,A 4OSCANA 6IA #ECCO !NGIOLIERI "IG WELL PRICED ROOM THREE STAR IN AN ATMOSPHERIC AND CENTRAL LOCATION ON AN ALLEY BEHIND 0IAZZA 4OLOMEI 2OOMS WITH AND WITHOUT BATHROOMS n UNUSUAL IN THIS CATEGORY ,OCANDA 'ARIBALDI 6IA 'IOVANNI $UPRÏ ! GOOD NO NONSENSE SEVEN ROOM TWO STAR FOUR SHARED BATHROOMS SITED ABOVE ONE OF THE CITYS BETTER LOW COST RESTAURANTS JUST SOUTH OF THE #AMPO -IDNIGHT CURFEW 0ALAZZO 2AVIZZA 0IAN DEI -ANTELLINI WWWPALAZZORAVIZZAIT 4HIS ELEGANT ROOM THREE STAR LOCATED IN A PLEAS ANT AREA NEAR 3AN .ICCOLÛ AL #ARMINE HAS BEEN RUN BY THE SAME FAMILY SINCE OPENING FOR BUSINESS IN THE S AND HAS RECENTLY BEEN RENOVATED IN A WAY THAT HAS FRESHENED THE PLACE WITHOUT SACRIlC ING ITS PERIOD CHARM 4HE ROOMS ARE SPARINGLY AND TASTEFULLY FURNISHED WITH ANTIQUES AND PAVED WITH TERRACOTTA OR PARQUET TILES WITH CEILING FRESCOES IN SEVERAL OF THEM )N HIGH SEASON RESERVATIONS ARE ACCEPTED ON A HALF BOARD BASIS ONLY AT OTHER TIMES OF THE YEAR THEY HAVE DOUBLES FROM AROUND + AND BEAUTIFUL SUITES WITH *ACUZZIS FROM AROUND + 4HE LITTLE GARDEN AT THE BACK IS A CHARMING PLACE FOR AFTERNOON TEA 0ICCOLO (OTEL %TRURIA 6IA $ONZELLE WWWHOTELETRURIACOM ! VERY
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WHERE "ANCHI DI 3OPRA BECOMES 6IA -ONTANINI &RIENDLY AND WELL MAINTAINED THIS IS THE BEST CHOICE AMONG THE CENTRAL MID PRICE HOTELS #ENTRALE 6IA #ECCO !NGIOLIERI HOTELCENTRALESIEAN LIBEROIT *UST SEVEN LARGE ROOMS ON AN UPPER mOOR IN A QUIET STREET AS CENTRAL AS THE NAME SUGGESTS A BLOCK NORTH OF THE #AMPO #ERTOSA DI -AGGIANO 6IA #ERTOSA WWWCERTOSADIMAG GIANOCOM ! FORMER MONASTERY IN THE COUNTRYSIDE KM SOUTHEAST OF 3IENA THAT OFFERS LUXURIOUS COM FORT IN ITS FEW TASTEFUL ROOMS + PLUS PER NIGHT AND AN ALLURING RETREAT FROM WORLDLY AFFAIRS IN ITS LIBRARY CLOISTER AND TRANQUIL TERRACE #HIUSARELLI 6IALE #URTATONE WWWCHIUSARELLICOM ! NICE OLD THREE STAR VILLA HOTEL WITH ROOMS AND A GARDEN AT THE BACK BUT ITS ON A BUSY STREET NEAR THE BUS STOPS n ASK FOR ONE OF THE BACK ROOMS SEVERAL OF WHICH ARE VERY LARGE AND COMFORTABLE !LSO HAS SOME PRIVATE PARKING
$UOMO 6IA 3TALLOREGGI WWWHOTELDUOMOIT 2OOMS ARE RELIABLE BUT UNEXCEPTIONAL n APART FROM THOSE WITH VIEWS OF THE $UOMO n BUT THIS IS NONETHELESS THE BEST LOCATED OF THE CITYS THREE STAR HOTELS 'RAND (OTEL #ONTINENTAL 6IA "ANCHI DI 3OPRA WWW ROYALDEMEURECOM &OR YEARS 3IENA HAD NO LUXURY lVE STAR HOTEL n UNTIL THE HUGELY EXPENSIVE RESTORATION OF THIS FORMER PALACE IN A PERFECT LOCATION 4HE PUBLIC SPACES ESPECIALLY THE GRAND SALON ARE ASTOUNDING WITH FRESCOES AND A LARGE COVERED COURTYARD 4HE BEST ROOMS AND SUITES ARE ALSO EXCEPTIONAL n VAST ENTIRELY FRESCOED AND WITH STUNNING VIEWS OF THE $UOMO /THER ROOMS ARE STILL EXCELLENT AND SUPERBLY APPOINTED BUT MOSTLY LACK THE FABULOUS PERIOD DETAILS YOULL SEE IN THE BROCHURES OR ON THE WEBSITE 4HE EVENING
,ONG STAY ACCOMMODATION &OR LONG STAY BUDGET ACCOMMODATION CALL IN AT THE TOURIST OFlCE WHICH HAS LISTS OF ROOMS AFlTTACAMERE AVAILABLE IN PRIVATE HOUSES 4HESE ARE OFFERED MAINLY TO STU DENTS EITHER AT THE UNIVERSITY OR ON THE NUMEROUS LANGUAGE AND ART COURSES HELD IN THE CITY BUT SOME ARE WILLING TO OFFER SHORTER LETS 4HEYRE CERTAINLY WORTH A TRY IF YOURE STAYING FOR A WEEK OR MORE RATES ARE AROUND + PER PERSON PER NIGHT USUALLY FOR A SHARED ROOM LESS FOR LONG TERM LETS !NOTHER OPTION IS TO ARRANGE A LET THROUGH ONE OF THE LOCAL AGRITURISMO AGENCIES MOST RENT OUT VILLAS AND FARMHOUSES AS WELL AS ROOMS OR mATS ON FARMS IN THE NEARBY COUNTRYSIDE 3IENA BASED COMPANIES INCLUDE !GRITURIST 0ROVINCIALE 3TRADA -ASSETANA 2OMANA WWWAGRITURISTIT AND #ASA #LUB 6IA 6ENETO WWWCASA CLUBIT 4HE ACCOMMODATION BOOKLET ISSUED BY THE TOURIST OFlCE ALSO HAS FULL LISTS OF THE AGRITURISMO OPTIONS IN THE AREA
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\ 4HE #AMPO
NEAT TWO STAR AND DESERVEDLY POPULAR ADVANCE BOOKING FOR HIGH SEASON IS A MUST TO SECURE ONE OF ITS THIRTEEN ROOMS 0ICCOLO (OTEL )L 0ALIO 0IAZZA DEL 3ALE PICCOLOHOTELILPALIOIT 0ERFECTLY LOCATED FOR BUS ARRIVALS RIGHT NEAR ALL THE BUS STOPS M NORTH OF THE CENTRE #LEAN GOOD SIZED ROOMS AND FRIENDLY HELPFUL STAFF 3ANTA #ATERINA 6IA 0ICCOLOMINI WWWHSCSIENAIT ! NINETEEN ROOM THREE STAR TEN MINUTES WALK FROM THE #AMPO ON THE STREET THAT LEADS OUT OF TOWN FROM 0ORTA 2OMANA (AS THE ADVANTAGES OF AIR CONDITIONING AND PARKING 4RE $ONZELLE 6IA $ONZELLE %XCELLENT ONE STAR OPTION RIGHT IN THE HEART OF TOWN JUST OFF "ANCHI DI 3OTTO NORTH OF THE #AMPO 'OOD CLEAN ROOMS SOME WITH PRIVATE BATH BUT HAS A CURFEW OF AM AND ITS ROOMS ARE OFTEN BOOKED SOLID 6ILLA 3CACCIAPENSIERI 6IA DI 3CACCIAPENSIERI WWWVILLASCACCIAPENSIERIIT &OUR STAR COUNTRY VILLA KM NORTH OF 3IENA WITH EVERY LUXURY INCLUDING A POOL
(OSTELS !LMA $OMUS 6IA #AMPOREGIO !N OLD PILGRIM HOSTEL BEHIND 3AN $OMENICO WITH DOUBLES FROM + ALL WITH PRIVATE BATHROOMS 4RIPLE AND QUAD ROOMS ARE ALSO AVAILABLE #URFEW PM "OOKINGS TAKEN ONLY -ONn3AT nPM /STELLO DELLA 'IOVENTá h'UIDORICCIOv 6IA &IOREN TINA ,O 3TELLINO WWW OSTELLIONLINEORG 2ATHER STERILE AND UNINSPIRING () HOSTEL WITH BEDS LOCATED KM NORTHWEST OF THE CENTRE 4AKE BUS FROM 0IAZZA 'RAMSCI OR IF YOURE COMING FROM &LORENCE ASK TO BE LET OFF AT h,O 3TELLINOv JUST AFTER THE 3IENA CITY SIGN (AS SEVERAL DOUBLE ROOMS A RESTAURANT MEALS + AND BAR #URFEW PM $ORM BEDS + INCLUD ING BREAKFAST $OUBLES ARE +
#AMPSITE #AMPEGGIO 3IENA #OLLEVERDE 3TRADA DI 3CAC CIAPENSIERI 3ECURE WELL MAINTAINED CAMPSITE KM NORTH TAKE BUS FROM 0IAZZA DEL 3ALE OR FROM 0IAZZA 'RAMSCI 3HOP BAR AND POOL -ID -ARCH TO MID .OV 0LACES COST + PER PERSON
4HE #ITY 4HE CENTRE OF 3IENA IS ITS GREAT SQUARE THE #AMPO BUILT AT THE INTERSECTION OF A 9 SHAPED CONlGURATION OF HILLS AND THE CONVERGENCE OF THE CITYS PRINCIPAL ROADS THE "ANCHI DI 3OPRA "ANCHI DI 3OTTO AND 6IA DI #ITTÌ %ACH OF THESE ROADS LEADS OUT ACROSS A RIDGE STRADDLED BY ONE OF THE CITYS THREE MEDIEVAL DISTRICTS OR TERZI LITERALLY hTHIRDSv THE 4ERZO DI #ITTÌ TO THE SOUTHWEST THE 4ERZO DI 3AN -ARTINO TO THE SOUTHEAST AND THE 4ERZO DI #AMOLLIA TO THE NORTH 4HIS CENTRAL CORE n ALMOST ENTIRELY MEDIEVAL IN PLAN AND APPEARANCE n IS INI TIALLY A LITTLE DISORIENTATING THOUGH WITH THE #AMPO AS A POINT OF REFERENCE YOU WONT GO FAR WRONG -OVEMENT AROUND IS ALSO MADE EASIER BY THE FACT THAT THE CITY CENTRE HAS BEEN EFFECTIVELY PEDESTRIANIZED SINCE THE S %VERYWHERE OF USE OR INTEREST IN THE CITY IS WITHIN EASY WALKING DISTANCE WITH THE EXCEPTION OF 3T "ERNARDINOS MONASTIC RETREAT ,/SSERVANZA THE 'UIDORICCIO HOSTEL AND THE CAMPSITE
4HE #AMPO
4HE #AMPO IS THE CENTRE OF 3IENA IN EVERY SENSE THE MAIN STREETS LEAD INTO IT THE 0ALIO TAKES PLACE AROUND ITS PERIMETER AND IN THE EVENINGS IT IS THE NATURAL PLACE TO GRAVITATE TOWARDS FOR VISITORS AND RESIDENTS ALIKE &OUR HUNDRED YEARS
AGO -ONTAIGNE DESCRIBED IT AS THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SQUARE IN THE WORLD n AN ASSESSMENT THAT STILL SEEMS PRETTY FAIR 7ITH ITS AMPHITHEATRE CURVE THE #AMPO APPEARS AN ALMOST ORGANIC PIECE OF CITY PLANNING )N FACT WHEN THE #OUNCIL OF .INE BEGAN BUYING UP LAND IN THEY WERE ADOPTING THE ONLY POSSIBLE SITE n THE OLD MARKETPLACE WHICH LAY AT THE CONVERGENCE OF THE CITY QUARTERS BUT WAS A PART OF NONE THE OLD 2OMAN FORUM PROBABLY ALSO OCCUPIED THE SITE 4O BUILD ON IT IT WAS NECESSARY TO CONSTRUCT AN ENORMOUS BUTTRESS BENEATH THE LOWER HALF OF THE SQUARE WHERE THE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO WAS TO BE RAISED 4HE PIAZZA ITSELF WAS COMPLETED IN WHEN THE COUNCIL LAID ITS NINE SEGMENTS OF PAVING TO COMMEMORATE THEIR HIGHLY CIVIC RULE AND PAY HOMAGE TO THE 6IRGIN THE FOLDS OF WHOSE CLOAK IT WAS INTENDED TO SYMBOLIZE 3 ) % .!
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\ 4HE #AMPO
2ATHER THAN PAYING ADMISSION AT EACH ATTRACTION ITS A GOOD IDEA TO PICK UP A PASS OR JOINT TICKET BIGLIETTO CUMULATIVO COVERING ENTRY TO SEVERAL SITES 3IENA HAS AN ARRAY OF THESE THOUGH THEY HAVE A TENDENCY TO CHANGE FROM YEAR TO YEAR 5SUALLY THEY ARE AVAILABLE AT ANY OF THE PARTICIPATING MUSEUMS !LL THOUGH PERMIT ONLY A SINGLE ENTRY TO EACH ATTRACTION 4HE CATHEDRAL AUTHORITIES HAVE AN h/PERAv PASS WHICH GIVES ENTRY TO THE -USEO DELL/PERA THE "APTISTERY AND 3AN "ERNARDINO FOR + AND IS VALID FOR THREE DAYS 4HE CIVIC MUSEUM AUTHORITIES HAVE THEIR OWN TWO DAY PASS WHICH GIVES ENTRY TO THE -USEO #IVICO BUT NOT THE 4ORRE DEL -ANGIA 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA 3CALA AND THE 0ALAZZO DELLE 0APESSE FOR + ! JOINT TICKET COVERING ONLY THE -USEO #IVICO AND 4ORRE DEL -ANGIA COSTS + &INALLY THERE ARE SEASONAL VERSIONS OF AN ALL ENCOMPASSING SEVEN DAY h!RT )TINERARYv PASS n THE 3)! )NVERNO OR )TINERARIO D!RTE )NVERNO 7INTER !RT )TINERARY AVAILABLE .OV TO MID -ARCH COVERING ENTRY TO THE -USEO DELL/PERA THE "APTISTERY ,IBRERIA 0ICCOLOMINI -USEO #IVICO 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA 3CALA AND 0ALAZZO DELLE 0APESSE FOR + OR THE 3)! %STATE OR )TINERARIO D!RTE %STATE 3UMMER !RT )TINERARY AVAILABLE MID -ARCH TO /CT VALID FOR ALL THESE PLUS THE /RATORIO 3AN "ERNARDINO -USEO $IOC ESANO AND THE CHURCH OF 3ANT!GOSTINO FOR + .OTE THAT THE 0INACOTECA .AZIONALE IS ADMINISTERED BY A SEPARATE BODY FROM ALL THE ABOVE AND SO IS NOT INCLUDED ON ANY OF THE PASSES
&ROM THE START THE STAGE LIKE #AMPO WAS A FOCUS OF CITY LIFE !S WELL AS ITS CONTINUING ROLE AS THE CITYS MARKETPLACE n FOR LIVESTOCK AS WELL AS PRODUCE n IT WAS THE SCENE OF EXECUTIONS BULLlGHTS COMMUNAL BOXING MATCHES AND OF COURSE THE 0ALIO 3T "ERNARDINO PREACHED HERE TOO HOLDING BEFORE HIM THE MONOGRAM OF #HRISTS NAME IN 'REEK h)(3v WHICH HE URGED THE NOBLES TO ADOPT IN PLACE OF THEIR OWN VAINGLORIOUS COATS OF ARMS ! FEW DID SO THE MONOGRAM IS TO BE SEEN ON VARIOUS PALAZZI AND IT WAS ADOPTED BY THE COUNCIL ON THE FACADE OF THE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO ALONGSIDE THE CITYS SHE WOLF SYMBOL WHICH IS ITSELF A REFERENCE TO 3IENAS LEGENDARY FOUNDATION BY THE SONS OF 2EMUS !T THE HIGHEST POINT OF THE #AMPO IS THE 2ENAISSANCE &ONTE 'AIA h'AY &OUNTAINv DESIGNED AND CARVED BY *ACOPO DELLA 1UERCIA IN THE EARLY lFTEENTH CENTURY )TS PANELS ARE POOR NINETEENTH CENTURY REPRODUCTIONS n SOME OF THE ORIGINAL MARBLE PIECES ARE CURRENTLY BEING RESTORED IN THE &IENILE SECTION OF 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA 3CALA n BUT THEY GIVE AN IDEA OF WHAT WAS CONSIDERED ONE OF THE CITYS MASTERPIECES )TS CONCEPTION n THE 6IRGIN AT THE CENTRE mANKED BY THE 6IRTUES n WAS A CONSCIOUS EMULATION OF THE ,ORENZETTI FRESCOES ON 'OOD AND "AD 'OVERNMENT IN THE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO SEE P 4HE FOUNTAINS NAME COMES FROM FESTIVITIES CELEBRATING ITS INAUGURATION IN THE CLIMAX OF A LONG PROCESS THAT BEGAN IN THE S WHEN MASONS MANAGED TO CHANNEL WATER INTO THE SQUARE
4HE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO
-AKING NO BONES ABOUT ITS EXPRESSION OF CIVIC PRIDE THE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO BRISTLING WITH CRENELLATIONS AND GLORIOUS MEDIEVAL DETAIL OCCUPIES VIRTUALLY THE ENTIRE SOUTH SIDE OF THE #AMPO LOOMED OVER BY ITS GIANT BELL TOWER THE 4ORRE DEL -ANGIA "UILT LARGELY IN THE lRST DECADE OF THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY THE PALACES LOWER LEVEL OF ARCADING IS CHARACTERISTIC OF 3IENESE 'OTHIC AS ARE THE COLUMNS SEPARATING THE WINDOWS 4HE COUNCIL WERE SO PLEASED WITH THIS ASPECT
OF THE DESIGN THAT THEY ORDERED ITS EMULATION ON ALL OTHER BUILDINGS ON THE SQUARE n AND IT WAS INDEED GRACEFULLY ADAPTED ON THE TWELFTH CENTURY 0ALAZZO 3ANSEDONI ON THE NORTH SIDE 4HE OTHER MAIN EXTERIOR FEATURE OF THE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO IS THE #APPELLA DI 0IAZZA A STONE LOGGIA SET AT THE BASE OF THE TOWER WHICH THE COUNCIL VOWED TO BUILD AT THE END OF THE "LACK $EATH IN &UNDS WERE SLOW TO MATERIALIZE HOWEVER AND BY WHEN THE CHIEF MASON AT THE CATHEDRAL TURNED HIS HAND TO ITS DESIGN NEW &LORENTINE IDEAS WERE ALREADY MAKING THEIR INmUENCE FELT 4HE lNAL STAGE OF CONSTRUCTION A CENTURY LATER WHEN THE CHAPEL WAS HEIGHTENED AND A CANOPY ADDED WAS WHOLLY 2ENAISSANCE IN CONCEPT 4HE -USEO #IVICO 3 ) % .!
\ 4HE #AMPO
)N THE DAYS OF THE COMUNE THE LOWER mOORS OF THE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO HOUSED THE CITY ACCOUNTS AND THE UPPER STOREYS AS TODAY THE COUNCIL .OWADAYS ITS PRINCIPAL ROOMS HAVE BEEN CONVERTED INTO THE -USEO #IVICO DAILY *AN n&EB .OV n$EC AMnPM &EB n-ARCH .OV n $EC n*AN AMnPM -ARCH n/CT AMnPM + OR + WITH 4ORRE DEL -ANGIA FOR OTHER JOINT TICKETS SEE OPPOSITE + WITH RESERVATIONS MADE AT WWWCOMUNESIENAITMUSEOCIVICO ENTERED THROUGH THE COURTYARD TO THE RIGHT OF THE #APPELLA DI 0IAZZA 4HE MUSEUM STARTS ON THE lRST mOOR OF THE PALAZZO !T THE TOP OF THE STAIRS YOURE DIRECTED THROUGH A DISAPPOINTING MISCELLANEOUS lVE ROOM PICTURE COLLECTION WHOSE NINETEENTH CENTURY HUNTING SCENES ARE ENOUGH TO PUT YOU OFF EATING CINGHIALE WILD BOAR FOR THE REST OF YOUR VISIT 9OU THEN WIND ROUND INTO THE 3ALA DEL 2ISORGIMENTO n PAINTED WITH SCENES COM MEMORATING 6ITTORIO %MANUELE lRST KING OF )TALY 4HESE DEPICT VARIOUS BATTLE CAMPAIGNS THE KINGS CORONATION AND HIS EARLIER MEETING WITH 'ARIBALDI AND HIS ARMY ON THE ROAD TO #APUA WHERE HE REFUSED 'ARIBALDI GOVERNORSHIP OF THE .EAPOLITAN PROVINCES INSTEAD INmICTING A DECADE OF MARTIAL RULE
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4HE lRST OF THE ROOMS OF ANY REAL INTEREST IS THE 3ALA DI "ALIA OR 3ALA DEI 0RIORI FRESCOED BY 3PINELLO !RETINO AND HIS SON 0ARRI IN WITH EPISODES FROM THE LIFE OF 3IENA BORN 0OPE !LEXANDER ))) n IN PARTICULAR HIS CONmICT WITH &REDERICK "ARBAROSSA THE 'ERMAN (OLY 2OMAN %MPEROR 4HE STORY IS A COMPLEX ONE 4HE POPE AND EMPEROR CAME INTO DISPUTE FOLLOWING "ARBAROSSAS DESTRUCTION OF -ILAN IN AN EVENT THAT CAUSED THE FORMATION OF A ,OMBARD ,EAGUE OF )TALIAN STATES SUPPORTED BY THE 6ATICAN AND THE 6ENETIANS "ARBAROSSA ENTERED 2OME IN WHEREUPON THE POPE mED TO 6ENICE WHERE HE IS DEPICTED DISGUISED AS A MONK BUT RECOGNIZED BY A &RENCH PILGRIM 4HE SCENES INCLUDE A SUPERBLY REALIZED NAVAL CONmICT n IN WHICH THE 6ENETIANS ARE SHOWN CAPTURING THE EMPERORS SON AND THE 'ERMANS DESPERATELY TRYING TO RESCUE HIM n AND THE POPES EVENTUAL RECONCILIATION WITH "ARBAROSSA IN A PROCESSION LED BY THE DOGE OF 6ENICE
\ 4HE #AMPO
!NTICAMERA AND 3ALA DEL #ONCISTORO
"EYOND IS THE !NTICAMERA DEL #ONCISTORO OR 3ALA DEI #ARDINALI ! DETACHED FRESCO 4HREE 3AINTS AND $ONOR ATTRIBUTED TO !MBROGIO ,ORENZETTI GRACES THE WALL BY THE ENTRANCE DOOR )T WAS TRANSFERRED HERE IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY AND WAS PROBABLY ONCE PART OF A MUCH LARGER WORK DEPICTING THE -ADONNA AND #HILD IN SUCH PICTURES THE DONOR n THE INDIVIDUAL RESPONSIBLE FOR COMMISSIONING THE PICTURE n WOULD HAVE BEEN SHOWN KNEELING AT THE FEET OF THE -ADONNA )N THE CENTRE OF THE LEFT WALL IS A BEAUTIFUL -ADONNA AND #HILD ATTRIBUTED TO -ATTEO DI 'IOVANNI WHOSE -ADONNA HAS THE UNQUIET LOOK TYPICAL OF THIS PAINTER HIS PROPENSITY FOR THE UNSETTLING FOUND EXPRESSION IN SEVERAL GRISLY DEPICTIONS OF THE -ASSACRE OF THE )NNOCENTS ONE OF WHICH IS ON DISPLAY IN ANOTHER ROOM OF THE MUSEUM SEE P 4HE NEXT ROOM IS THE 3ALA DEL #ONCISTORO ENTERED VIA AN ORNATE MARBLE DOORWAY BY "ERNARDO 2OSSELLINO THE SCULPTOR AND ARCHITECT RESPONSIBLE FOR REDESIGNING MUCH OF THE SOUTHERN 4USCAN TOWN OF 0IENZA SEE P FOR 0OPE 0IUS )) 4HE ROOMS VAULT WAS SUPERBLY FRESCOED BY THE -ANNERIST STAR $OMENICO "ECCAFUMI BETWEEN AND 4HE PANELS ARE EITHER ALLEGORIES OR DESCRIBE EVENTS FROM 'REEK AND 2OMAN HISTORY BUT LIKE VIRTUALLY EVERY PAINTING IN THE PALAZZO DELIBERATELY EVOKE PARALLELS WITH THE CIVIC VIRTUES OR HISTORICAL ACHIEVEMENTS OF 3IENA ITSELF 6ESTIBOLO !NTICAPPELLA AND #APPELLA
$OORS FROM THE !NTICAMERA BEHIND YOU LEAD ON INTO THE 6ESTIBOLO WHICH CON TAINS A DAMAGED FRESCO OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD BY !MBROGIO ,OREN ZETTI AND A GILDED BRONZE OF THE 3HE 7OLF 3UCKLING 2OMULUS AND 2EMUS AN ALLUSION TO THE CITYS MYTHICAL FOUNDATION BY 3ENIUS SON OF 2EMUS /N THE LEFT IS THE MORE INTERESTING !NTICAPPELLA DECORATED BETWEEN AND BY 4ADDEO DI "ARTOLO THE LAST MAJOR EXPONENT OF 3IENAS CONSERVATIVE 'OTHIC STYLE WITH A VAST 3T #HRISTOPHER AND FRESCOES n LIKE THOSE IN THE 3ALA DEL #ONCISTORO n WHOSE 'REEK AND 2OMAN THEMES REmECT 3IENAS OWN CIVIC CONCERNS 4ADDEO ALSO FRESCOED THE #APPELLA ALONGSIDE WITH EPISODES FROM THE ,IFE OF THE 6IRGIN n WORK OVERSHADOWED BY 3ODOMAS ALTARPIECE THE VAST WROUGHT IRON SCREEN n n ATTRIBUTED TO *ACOPO DELLA 1UERCIA n AND THE EXCEPTIONAL SET OF INLAID CHOIR STALLS n
3ALA DEL -APPAMONDO
!LL THESE WORKS THOUGH ARE LITTLE MORE THAN A WARM UP FOR THE 3ALA DEL -AP PAMONDO ONE OF THE GREAT SET PIECES OF )TALIAN ART 4AKING ITS NAME FROM ITS
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\ 4HE #AMPO
NOW SCARCELY VISIBLE CEILING FRESCO OF A MAP OF THE COSMOS EXECUTED BY !MBRO GIO ,ORENZETTI THE ROOM WAS USED FOR SEVERAL CENTURIES AS THE CITYS LAW COURT AND CONTAINS ONE OF THE GREATEST OF ALL )TALIAN FRESCOES 3IMONE -ARTINIS FABU LOUS AND RECENTLY RESTORED -AESTÌ A PAINTING OF ALMOST TRANSLUCENT COLOUR WHICH WAS THE COMUNES lRST MAJOR COMMISSION FOR THE PALACE )TS POLITICAL DIMENSION IS APPARENT IN THE DEPICTION OF THE #HRIST #HILD HOLDING A PARCHMENT INSCRIBED WITH THE CITYS MOTTO OF JUSTICE AND THE INSCRIPTION OF TWO STANZAS FROM $ANTE ON THE STEPS BELOW THE THRONE WARNING THAT THE 6IRGIN WILL NOT INTERCEDE FOR THOSE WHO BETRAY HER OR OPPRESS THE POOR )T IS ONE OF -ARTINIS EARLIEST KNOWN WORKS PAINTED IN AT THE AGE OF BEFORE THIS EXTRAORDINARY DEBUT NOT A THING IS KNOWN OF HIM (E TOUCHED UP PARTS OF THE PICTURE FOLLOWING DAM AGE FROM DAMP SIX YEARS LATER 4HE RICHLY DECORATIVE STYLE IS ARCHETYPAL 3IENESE 'OTHIC AND ITS ARRANGEMENT MAKES A FASCINATING COMPARISON WITH THE -AESTÌ BY $UCCIO WITH WHOM -ARTINI PERHAPS TRAINED IN THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO -ARTINIS GREAT INNOVATION WAS THE USE OF A CANOPY AND A FRIEZE OF MEDALLIONS WHICH FRAME AND ORGANIZE THE lGURES n A SENSE OF SPACE AND HINT OF PERSPECTIVE THAT SUGGEST A KNOWLEDGE OF 'IOTTOS WORK -ARTINI WAS TO EXPERI MENT FURTHER IN THIS DIRECTION IN HIS GREAT CYCLE OF THE ,IFE OF 3T -ARTIN IN !SSISI PAINTED A COUPLE OF YEARS LATER 4HE FRESCO ON THE OPPOSITE WALL THE MARVELLOUS %QUESTRIAN 0ORTRAIT OF 'UIDORICCIO DA &OGLIANO IS A MOTIF FOR MEDIEVAL CHIVALRIC 3IENA AND WAS UNTIL RECENTLY ALSO CREDITED TO -ARTINI $EPICTING THE KNIGHT SETTING FORTH FROM HIS BATTLE CAMP TO BESIEGE A WALLED HILL TOWN THOUGHT TO BE -ONTEMASSI A VIL LAGE SOUTHWEST OF 3IENA NEAR 2OCCASTRADA IT WOULD IF IT WERE BY -ARTINI BE ACCOUNTED ONE OF THE EARLIEST )TALIAN PORTRAIT PAINTINGS !RT HISTORIANS HOWEVER HAVE LONG PUZZLED OVER THE APPARENTLY ANACHRONISTIC CASTLES ACCORDING TO SOME THEY ARE OF A MUCH LATER ARCHITECTURAL STYLE THAN THE PAINTINGS SUPPOSED DATE OF 4HE WORK WOULD ALSO SEEM TO BE PART PAINTED OVER A FRESCO TO THE RIGHT BY ,IPPO 6ANNI WHICH IS DATED )N THE MID S THE WATERS WERE FURTHER
5 %QUESTRIAN 0ORTRAIT OF 'UIDORICCIO DA &OGLIANO
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\ 4HE #AMPO
MUDDIED WHEN DURING RESTORATION ANOTHER APPARENTLY ANACHRONISTIC FRESCO WAS FOUND n THE PAINTING NOW BENEATH THE EQUESTRIAN PORTRAIT SHOWING TWO MEN IN FRONT OF A CASTLE BELIEVED TO BE THE ONE AT !RCIDOSSO IN SOUTHERN 4USCANY IT HAS BEEN VARIOUSLY ATTRIBUTED TO -ARTINI $UCCIO 0IETRO ,ORENZETTI AND -EMMI DI &ILIPPUCCIO 4HE CURRENT STATE OF THE DEBATE IS CONFUSED WITH A NUMBER OF HISTORIANS n LED BY THE !MERICAN 'ORDON -ORAN WHOM THE COUNCIL FOR A WHILE BANNED FROM THE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO AND ACCUSED OF BELONGING TO THE #)! n INTERPRETING THE 'UIDORICCIO AS A SIXTEENTH CENTURY FAKE AND OTHERS n INCLUDING AN )TALIAN COM MISSION OF EXPERTS n MAINTAINING THAT IT IS A GENUINE -ARTINI OVERPAINTED BY SUBSEQUENT RESTORERS 4HINGS REACHED SUCH A PITCH THAT A NEUTRAL REFEREE n AN %NGLISHMAN 0ROFESSOR !NDREW -ARTINDALE n WAS CALLED IN TO ARBITRATE HIS lND INGS HOWEVER PROVED INCONCLUSIVE 4EMPERS RECENTLY BOILED OVER WHEN THE !MERICANS ACCUSED THE 3IENESE OF DELIBERATELY DESTROYING EVIDENCE THAT WOULD SUPPORT THEIR CASE DURING A hROUTINEv RESTORATION -UCH RESTS ON A SCRUPULOUS ANALYSIS OF 3IENAS VAST ARCHIVES IN THE 0ALAZZO 0ICCOLOMINI DETAILS CONTAINED IN THE RECORDS OF PAYMENTS FOR VARIOUS PAINTINGS OF THE PERIOD MAY WELL HELP SOLVE THE MYSTERY 4HE ONLY OTHER OPTION n OFTEN SUGGESTED BUT NOT YET COUNTENANCED n IS TO STRIP AWAY ALL THE FRESCOES CONCERNED TO STUDY EXACTLY WHAT OVERLAYS WHAT !T LEAST THERES NO PROBLEM WITH THE COFFERED lGURES TO THE RIGHT AND LEFT OF THE UNCOVERED FRESCO BENEATH THE EQUESTRIAN PORTRAIT THESE ARE A PAIR OF SAINTS BY 3ODOMA DATING FROM 4HE OTHER LARGE FRESCOES IN THE ROOM ALSO DEPICT 3IENESE MILITARY VICTORIES NAMELY THE 6ICTORY AT THE 6AL DI #HIANA BY ,IPPO 6ANNI ON THE LONG WALL AND THE 6ICTORY AT 0OGGIO )MPERIALE BY #HRISTOFORO 'HINI AND &RANCESCO D!NDREA $ONT MISS THE lGURES ON THE PILASTERS BELOW THE LATTER WHICH FROM LEFT TO RIGHT ARE 3ODOMAS "LESSED 4OLOMEI FOUNDER OF THE ABBEY AT -ONTE /LIVETO -AGGIORE 3T "ERNARDINO BY 3ANO DI 0IETRO AND 3T #ATHERINE OF 3IENA BY 6ECCHIETTA 3ALA DEI .OVE 3ALA DELLA 0ACE
4HE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICOS MOST IMPORTANT AND INTERESTING FRESCOES ADORN THE 3ALA DEI .OVE OR 3ALA DELLA 0ACE NEXT DOOR THESE ARE !MBROGIO ,ORENZETTIS !LLEGORIES OF 'OOD AND "AD 'OVERNMENT COMMISSIONED IN TO REMIND THE COUNCILLORS OF THE EFFECTS OF THEIR DUTIES AND WIDELY CONSIDERED ONE OF %UROPES MOST IMPORTANT SURVIVING CYCLES OF SECULAR PAINTINGS 4HE WALLED CITY THEY DEPICT IS CLEARLY 3IENA ALONG WITH ITS COUNTRYSIDE AND DOMAINS AND THE PAINTINGS ARE FULL OF DETAILS OF MEDIEVAL LIFE AGRICULTURE CRAFTWORK TRADE AND BUILDING EVEN HAWKING AND DANCING 4HEY FORM THE lRST KNOWN PANORAMA IN 7ESTERN ART AND SHOW AN INNOVATIVE APPROACH TO THE HUMAN lGURE n THE BEAUTIFUL RECLINING 0EACE 0AX IN THE 'OOD 'OVERNMENT HIERARCHY IS BASED ON A 2OMAN SARCOPHAGUS STILL ON DISPLAY IN THE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO !N ODD DETAIL IS THAT THE hDANCING MAIDENSv IN 'OOD 'OVERNMENT ARE PROBABLY YOUNG MEN WOMEN DANCING IN PUBLIC ACCORDING TO THE HISTORIAN *ANE "RIDGEMAN WOULD HAVE BEEN TOO SHOCKING IN MEDIEVAL 3IENA AND THE lGURES SHORT HAIR AND SLIT SKIRTS WERE CHARACTERISTIC OF PROFESSIONAL MALE ENTERTAINERS 4HE MORAL THEME OF THE FRESCOES IS EXPRESSED IN A COMPLEX ICONOGRAPHY OF ALLEGORICAL VIRTUES AND lGURES 'OOD 'OVERNMENT PAINTED ON THE MORE BRIGHTLY LIT WALLS AND BETTER PRESERVED IS DOMINATED BY A THRONED lGURE REPRESENTING THE COMUNE HE IS DRESSED IN 3IENAS COLOURS mANKED BY THE 6IRTUES 0EACE n FROM WHICH THE ROOM TAKES ITS NAME n IS THE NONCHALANTLY RECLINING lGURE IN WHITE AND WITH &AITH (OPE AND #HARITY BUZZING ABOUT HIS HEAD 4O THE LEFT ON A THRONE *USTICE WITH 7ISDOM IN THE AIR ABOVE DISPENSES REWARDS AND PUNISH
MENTS WHILE BELOW HER THRONE #ONCORDIA ADVISES THE REPUBLICS COUNCILLORS ON THEIR DUTIES !LL HOLD ROPES SYMBOL OF AGREEMENT "AD 'OVERNMENT IS RULED BY THE lGURE OF &EAR OR THE $EVIL WHOSE SCROLL READS h"ECAUSE HE LOOKS FOR HIS OWN GOOD IN THE WORLD HE PLACES JUSTICE BENEATH TYRANNY 3O NOBODY WALKS THIS ROAD WITHOUT &EAR ROBBERY THRIVES INSIDE AND OUTSIDE THE CITY GATESv &EAR IS SURROUNDED BY lGURES SYMBOLIZING THE 6ICES )RONICALLY WITHIN A DECADE OF THE FRESCOES COMPLETION 3IENA WAS ENGULFED BY THE "LACK $EATH n IN WHICH ,ORENZETTI AND HIS FAMILY WERE AMONG THE VICTIMS n AND THE CITY WAS UNDER TYRANNICAL GOVERNMENT (OWEVER THE PAINTINGS RETAINED AN IMPACT ON THE CITIZENRY 3T "ERNARDINO PREACHED SERMONS ON THEIR THEMES 3ALA DEI 0ILASTRI AND LOGGIA 3 ) % .!
\ 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO
4HE ROOM ADJOINING THE 3ALA DELLA 0ACE THE 3ALA DEI 0ILASTRI OR DELLE #OL ONNE DISPLAYS PANEL PAINTINGS FROM THE THIRTEENTH TO THE lFTEENTH CENTURY WHOSE CONSERVATISM AND STRICT FORMULAIC COMPOSITION POINTS UP THE SCALE OF ,ORENZETTIS ACHIEVEMENT .OTABLE AMONG THEM IS ONE OF THE EARLIEST 3IENESE MASTERPIECES 'UIDO DA 3IENAS GRIPPING -AESTÌ FOR WHICH $UC CIO REPAINTED THE 6IRGINS FACE A FASCINATING PICTURE OF 3T "ERNARDINO 0REACHING IN THE #AMPO BY .EROCCIO DI "ARTOLOMEO NOTE HOW THE MEN AND WOMEN IN THE CROWD ARE SEPARATED BY A WHITE CLOTH AND A GRAPHICALLY VIOLENT -ASSACRE OF THE )NNOCENTS REMOVED FROM 3ANT!GOSTINO PAINTED BY -ATTEO DI 'IOVANNI n ONE OF FOUR HE COMPLETED IN THE CITY 4HE STAINED GLASS lGURE OF 3T -ICHAEL IN ONE OF THE WINDOWS IS ATTRIBUTED TO !MBROGIO ,ORENZETTI "ACKTRACKING THROUGH THE MUSEUM IT IS WORTH CLIMBING THE STAIRS BETWEEN THE 3ALA DEL 2ISORGIMENTO AND 3ALA DI "ALIA TO THE REAR LOGGIA WHERE YOU CAN ENJOY A VIEW OVER THE 0IAZZA DEL -ERCATO NOW MAINLY A CAR PARK WITH A BELVEDERE LIKE PLATFORM AND A PLEASANT CAFÏ PIZZERIA AND RESTAURANT )T IS HERE YOU REALIZE HOW ABRUPTLY THE TOWN ENDS BUILDINGS RISE TO THE RIGHT AND LEFT FOR A FEW HUNDRED METRES ALONG THE RIDGES OF THE 4ERZO DI 3AN -ARTINO AND 4ERZO DI #ITTÌ BUT IN THE CENTRE THE LAND DROPS AWAY TO A RURAL VALLEY 4HE 4ORRE DEL -ANGIA
7ITHIN THE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICOS COURTYARD OPPOSITE THE ENTRANCE TO THE -USEO #IVICO IS SEPARATE ACCESS TO THE METRE 4ORRE DEL -ANGIA DAILY AMn PM .OV TO MID -ARCH CLOSES PM + OR + WITH THE -USEO #IVICO #LIMB THE STEPS AND YOU HAVE FABULOUS VERTIGO INDUCING VIEWS ACROSS THE TOWN AND COUNTRYSIDE "UILT BETWEEN AND n THE CRESTING WAS DESIGNED BY ,IPPO -EMMI n THE TOWER TAKES ITS NAME FROM ITS lRST WATCHMAN A SPENDTHRIFT MANGIAGUADAGNI NAMED 'IOVANNI DI "ALDUCCIO WHO IS COMMEMO RATED BY A STATUE IN THE COURTYARD )T WAS THE LAST GREAT PROJECT OF THE COMUNE BEFORE THE "LACK $EATH AND EXERCISED A HIGHLY CIVIC FUNCTION ITS BELL WAS RUNG TO ORDER THE OPENING OF THE CITY GATES AT DAWN THE BREAK FOR LUNCH THE END OF WORK AT SUNSET AND THE CLOSING OF THE CITY GATES THREE HOURS LATER
0IAZZA DEL $UOMO $OMINATING THE HILL ON WHICH IT STANDS VISIBLE FROM MANY PARTS OF THE CITY 3IENAS MIGHTY $UOMO IS THE FOCUS OF AN ENSEMBLE OF ART AND ARCHITECTURE ARRAYED AROUND THE 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO 4HE SOUTHWEST SIDE OF THE SQUARE IS OCCUPIED BY THE MEDIEVAL COMPLEX OF 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA 3CALA 3IENAS MAIN HOSPITAL FOR OVER EIGHT HUNDRED YEARS AND NOW A MUSEUM AND ARTS COMPLEX
DISPLAYING SOME STAGGERING MEDIEVAL FRESCOES 4WO mOORS BELOW IT IS THE -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO A MODEST BUT WELL PRESENTED COLLECTION AND PART OF A SCHEME THAT WILL SEE THE FORMER HOSPITAL TURNED INTO 3IENAS PRINCIPAL EXHIBITION SPACE 4HE OTHER SIDES OF THE SQUARE CONTINUE THE HISTORY OF 3IENESE POWER WITH THE 0ALAZZO DEI 6ESCOVI !RCHBISHOPS 0ALACE THE 0ALAZZO DEL -AGNIlCO BUILT FOR 0ETRUCCI IN AND THE 0ALAZZO 'RANDUCALE ERECTED LATER THE SAME CENTURY FOR THE -EDICI -ORE INTERESTING THAN ANY OF THESE THOUGH IS THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO HOME TO 3IENAS SINGLE GREATEST WORK OF ART n $UC CIOS -AESTÌ n AND A RANGE OF OTHER SIGNIlCANT SCULPTURES AND PAINTINGS
4HE $UOMO 3 ) % .!
\ 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO
&EW BUILDINGS REVEAL SO MUCH OF A CITYS HISTORY AND ASPIRATIONS AS 3IENAS $UOMO -ARCH TO LATE !UG -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM REST OF YEAR CLOSES AN HOUR EARLIER EXCEPT LATE !UG TO LATE /CT AMnPM FOR THE SHOWING OF THE PAVEMENT + INCLUDING ENTRY TO ,IBRERIA 0ICCOLOMINI + LATE !UG TO LATE /CT #OMPLETED TO VIRTUALLY ITS PRESENT SIZE AROUND THE $UOMO WAS SUBJECTED TO CONSTANT PLANS FOR EXPANSION THROUGHOUT THE CITYS YEARS OF MEDIEVAL PROSPERITY ! PROJECT AT THE BEGINNING OF THE FOURTEENTH CEN TURY ATTEMPTED TO DOUBLE ITS EXTENT BY BUILDING A BAPTISTERY ON THE SLOPE BELOW AND USING THIS AS A FOUNDATION FOR A REBUILT NAVE BUT THE WORK GROUND TO A HALT AS THE WALLS GAPED UNDER THE PRESSURE &OR A WHILE THE CHAPTER PONDERED KNOCKING DOWN THE WHOLE BUILDING AND STARTING FROM SCRATCH TO THE PRINCIPLES OF THE DAY BUT EVENTUALLY THEY HIT ON A NEW SCHEME TO RE ORIENTATE THE CATHEDRAL INSTEAD USING THE EXISTING NAVE AS A TRANSEPT AND BUILDING A NEW NAVE OUT TOWARDS THE #AMPO !GAIN CRACKS APPEARED AND THEN IN CAME THE "LACK $EATH 7ITH THE POPULATION HALVED AND FUNDS SUDDENLY CUT OFF THE PLAN WAS ABANDONED ONCE AND FOR ALL 4HE PART BUILT EXTENSION STILL STANDS AT THE NORTH END OF THE SQUARE A VAST STRUCTURE THAT n HAD IT BEEN COMPLETED n WOULD HAVE CREATED THE LARGEST CHURCH IN )TALY OUTSIDE 2OME $ESPITE ALL THE GRAND ABANDONED PLANS THE $UOMO IS STILL A DELIGHT )TS STYLE IS AN AMAZING CONGLOMERATION OF 2OMANESQUE AND 'OTHIC DELINEATED BY BANDS OF BLACK AND WHITE MARBLE AN IDEA ADAPTED FROM 0ISA AND ,UCCA n THOUGH HERE WITH MUCH BOLDER AND MORE EXTRAVAGANT EFFECT 4HE LOWER PART OF THE FACADE WAS DESIGNED BY THE 0ISAN SCULPTOR 'IOVANNI 0ISANO WHO FROM TO CREATED WITH HIS WORKSHOP MUCH OF ITS STATUARY n THE PHILOSOPHERS PATRIARCHS AND PROPHETS NOW REMOVED TO THE -USEO DELL/PERA AND REPLACED BY COPIES )N THE NEXT CENTURY THE #AMPANILE WAS ADDED ITS WINDOWS MULTIPLYING AT EACH LEVEL AS WAS THE 'OTHIC ROSE WINDOW ABOVE THE DOORS 4HEREAFTER WORK CAME TO A COMPLETE HALT WITH THE MOSAICS DESIGNED FOR THE GABLES HAVING TO WAIT UNTIL THE NINETEENTH CENTURY WHEN MONEY WAS FOUND TO EMPLOY 6ENETIAN ARTISTS )MMEDIATELY ABOVE THE CENTRAL DOOR NOTE 3T "ERNARDINOS BRONZE MONO GRAM OF #HRISTS NAME 4HE PAVEMENT
4HE FACADES USE OF BLACK AND WHITE DECORATION IS ECHOED BY THE $UOMOS GREAT MARBLE PAVEMENT OR mOOR WHICH BEGINS WITH GEOMETRIC PATTERNS AND A FEW SCENES OUTSIDE THE CHURCH AND TAKES OFF INTO A STARTLING SEQUENCE OF lGURATIVE PANELS WITHIN 4HESE WERE COMPLETED BETWEEN AND WITH VIRTUALLY EVERY ARTIST WHO WORKED IN THE CITY TRYING HIS HAND ON A DESIGN 4HE EARLIEST EMPLOYED A SIMPLE SGRAFlTO TECHNIQUE WHICH INVOLVED CHISELLING HOLES AND LINES IN THE MARBLE AND THEN lLLING THEM IN WITH PITCH LATER TABLEAUX ARE CONSIDERABLY MORE AMBITIOUS WORKED IN MULTICOLOURED MARBLE 5NFORTUNATELY
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THE WHOLE EFFECT CAN ONLY BE SEEN FOR ABOUT A MONTH IN !UGUST DATES VARY THE REST OF THE YEAR MOST OF THE PANELS ARE RATHER UNIMAGINATIVELY PROTECTED BY UNDERFOOT BOARDING 4HE SUBJECTS CHOSEN FOR THE PANELS ARE A STRANGE MIX INCORPORATING BIBLICAL THEMES SECULAR COMMEMORATIONS AND ALLEGORIES 4HE MOST ORDERED PART OF THE SCHEME ARE THE TEN 3IBYLS n MYTHIC PROPHETESSES WHO FORETOLD THE COMING OF #HRIST n ON EITHER SIDE OF THE MAIN AISLE &ASHIONED TOWARDS THE END OF THE lFTEENTH CENTURY WHEN 3IENESE PAINTERS WERE STILL IMPRINTING GOLD AROUND THEIR CONVENTIONAL -ADONNAS THEY ARE TOTALLY 2ENAISSANCE IN SPIRIT "ETWEEN THEM
3 ) % .!
\ 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO 5 4HE $UOMO 3IENA
IN THE CENTRAL NAVE ARE THE MUCH EARLIER 3IENESE SHE WOLF ENCLOSED BY THE REPUBLICS TWELVE CITIES MARKED AS ! ON OUR PLAN AND THE 7HEEL OF &ORTUNE % ALONG WITH 0INTURICCHIOS !LLEGORY OF 6IRTUE $ A ROCKY ISLAND OF SERPENTS WITH A NUDE POSED BETWEEN A BOAT AND THE LAND -OVING DOWN THE NAVE THE CENTRAL HEXAGON IS DOMINATED BY $OMENICO "ECCAFUMIS 3TORIES FROM THE ,IFE OF %LIJAH &n) "ECCA FUMI WORKED INTERMITTENTLY ON THE PAVEMENT FROM TO ALSO DESIGNING THE VAST FRIEZES OF -OSES 3TRIKING 7ATER FROM A 2OCK AND ON -OUNT 3INAI - AND 4HE 3ACRIlCE OF )SAAC / 4O THE LEFT OF THE HEXAGON IS A -ASSACRE OF THE )NNOCENTS + ALMOST INEVITABLY THE CHOSEN SUBJECT OF -ATTEO DI 'IOVANNI )TS INTERESTING ALSO TO NOTE THE CHOIR STALLS IN THE CONTEXT OF THE PAVE MENT 4HESE USE INTARSIA TECHNIQUES OF A SUPERB STANDARD AND AGAIN WERE MADE BETWEEN THE MID FOURTEENTH AND MID SIXTEENTH CENTURIES
4HE PULPIT SCULPTURES AND CHAPELS
3 ) % .!
\ 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO
4HE REST OF THE CATHEDRAL INTERIOR IS EQUALLY ARRESTING WITH ITS ZEBRA STRIPE BANDS OF MARBLE AND THE LINE OF POPES HEADS n INCLUDING SEVERAL 3IENESE n SET ABOVE THE PILLARS 4HESE STUCCO BUSTS WERE ADDED THROUGH THE lFTEENTH AND SIXTEENTH CENTURIES AND MANY SEEM SCULPTED WITH AN APPARENT EYE TO THEIR PERVERSITY THE SAME HOLLOW CHEEKED SCOWLS CROP UP REPEATEDLY 4HE GREATEST INDIVIDUAL ARTISTIC TREASURE IS THE PULPIT 4HIS WAS COMPLETED BY .ICOLA 0ISANO IN SOON AFTER HIS PULPIT FOR THE "APTISTERY AT 0ISA WITH HELP FROM HIS SON 'IOVANNI AND !RNOLFO DI #AMBIO 4HE DESIGN OF THE PANELS DUPLICATES THOSE IN 0ISA THOUGH THEY ARE EXECUTED WITH MUCH GREATER DETAIL AND HIGH RELIEF 4HE CARVINGS DISTANCE FROM THE "YZANTINE WORLD IS PERHAPS BEST DISPLAYED BY THE STATUETTE OF THE -ADONNA WHOSE BREAST IS VISIBLE BENEATH THE CLOAK FOR THE lRST TIME IN )TALY AND BY THE ,AST *UDGEMENT WITH ITS MASTERY OF THE HUMAN lGURE AND ORGANIZATION OF SPACE #OME EQUIPPED WITH PLENTY OF COINS FOR LIGHTING !LMOST ALL THE SCULPTURE IS OF AN EXCEPTIONAL STANDARD .EAR THE PULPIT IN THE NORTH TRANSEPT ARE 4INO DI #AMAINOS 4OMB OF #ARDINAL 0ETRONI A PROTOTYPE FOR )TALIAN TOMB ARCHITECTURE OVER THE NEXT CENTURY AND IN FRONT $ONATELLOS BRONZE PAVEMENT 4OMB OF "ISHOP 0ECCI 4HE 2ENAISSANCE HIGH ALTAR IS mANKED BY SUPERB CANDELABRA CARRYING ANGELS BY "ECCAFUMI )N THE 0ICCOLOMINI !LTARPIECE THE YOUNG -ICHELANGELO ALSO MAKES AN APPEARANCE (E WAS COMMISSIONED TO CARVE THE WHOLE SERIES OF lFTEEN STATUES HERE BUT AFTER COMPLETING SAINTS 0ETER 0AUL 0IUS AND 'REGORY IN THE LOWER NICHES HE LEFT FOR A MORE TEMPTING CONTRACT IN &LORENCE n THE $AVID 4HERE ARE FURTHER 2ENAISSANCE SCULPTURAL HIGHLIGHTS IN THE TWO CIRCULAR TRAN SEPT CHAPELS 4HE #APPELLA DI 3AN 'IOVANNI "ATTISTA ON THE LEFT FOCUSES ON A BRONZE STATUE OF THE "APTIST BY $ONATELLO CAST IN A COUPLE OF YEARS AFTER HIS EXPRESSIONIST -ARY -AGDALENE IN &LORENCE WHOM THE "APTISTS STRETCHED AND EMACIATED FACE RECALLS 4HE FRESCOES IN THIS CHAPEL WITH THEIR DELIGHTFUL LANDSCAPE DETAILING ARE BY 0INTURICCHIO 4HE #APPELLA #HIGI OR #APPELLA DEL 6OTO WAS THE LAST MAJOR ADDITION TO THE $UOMO BUILT AT THE BEHEST OF 0OPE !LEXANDER 6)) ANOTHER LOCAL BOY IN )T WAS DESIGNED BY "ERNINI AS A NEW SETTING FOR THE -ADONNA DEL 6OTO A THIRTEENTH CENTURY PAINTING THAT COMMEMORATED THE 3IENESE DEDICATION OF THEIR CITY TO THE 6IRGIN ON THE EVE OF THE "ATTLE OF -ONTAPERTI 4HE STYLE OF THE CHAPEL IS PURE 2OMAN "AROQUE MOST NOTABLY SEEN IN THE FOUR NICHE STATUES TWO OF WHICH ARE BY "ERNINI HIMSELF n WILD SEMI CLAD lGURES OF -ARY -AGDALENE AND 3T *EROME THE LATTER HOLDING A CROSS IN ECSTASY LIKE SOME S ROCK GUITARIST /UTSIDE THE CHAPEL THE WALLS ARE COVERED IN A MASS OF DEVOTIONAL OBJECTS n SILVER LIMBS AND HEARTS CONTRADA SCARVES EVEN THE ODD 0ALIO COSTUME AND CRASH HELMET ,IBRERIA 0ICCOLOMINI
-IDWAY ALONG THE NAVE ON THE LEFT 0INTURICCHIOS BRILLIANTLY COLOURED FRESCO OF THE #ORONATION OF 0IUS )) MARKS THE ENTRANCE TO THE ,IBRERIA 0ICCOLOMINI WELL WORTH A VISIT FOR THE BEAUTIFUL FRESCO CYCLE WITHIN 4HE FRESCOES AND LIBRARY WERE COMMISSIONED BY &RANCESCO 0ICCOLOMINI WHO FOR TEN DAYS WAS 0OPE 0IUS ))) TO HOUSE THE BOOKS OF HIS UNCLE !ENEAS 3YLVIUS 0ICCOLOMINI 0IUS )) 4HEY DO JUSTICE TO THE MAN WHOM *ACOB "URCKHARDT ADOPTED ALMOST AS A HERO IN HIS CLASSIC 4HE #IVILIZATION OF THE 2ENAISSANCE IN )TALY 0IUS BORN AT NEARBY 0IENZA IN WAS THE ARCHETYPAL 2ENAISSANCE MAN WRITING POETRY A GEOGRAPHY AND THE #OMMENTARIES A DEEPLY HUMANIST WORK IN WHICH HE ENTHUSES OVER LANDSCAPE ANTIQUITY AND ARCHITECTURE AND DESCRIBES THE LANGUAGES CUSTOMS AND INDUSTRIES ENCOUNTERED ON HIS TRAVELS
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\ 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO
0INTURICCHIOS FRESCOES PAINTED WITH AN EQUAL LOVE OF NATURE AND CLASSICAL DECOR AS WELL AS A KEEN SENSE OF DRAMA COMMEMORATE THE WHOLE GAMUT OF 0IUSS CAREER 4HE CYCLE BEGINS TO THE RIGHT OF THE WINDOW WITH !ENEASS SECULAR CAREER AS A DIPLOMAT ATTENDING THE #OUNCIL OF "ASLE AS SECRETARY TO AN )TALIAN BISHOP PANEL PRESENTING HIMSELF AS AN ENVOY TO *AMES )) OF 3COTLAND PANEL BEING CROWNED POET LAUREATE BY THE (OLY 2OMAN %MPEROR &REDERICK ))) PANEL AND THEN REPRESENTING &REDERICK ON A VISIT TO 0OPE %UGENIUS )6 PANEL !ENEAS SUBSEQUENTLY RETURNED TO )TALY AND TOOK ORDERS BECOMING lRST "ISHOP OF 4RIESTE AND THEN OF 3IENA IN WHICH ROLE HE IS DEPICTED PRESIDING OVER THE MEETING OF &REDERICK ))) AND HIS BRIDE TO BE %LEONORA OF 0ORTUGAL OUTSIDE THE CITYS 0ORTA #AMOLLIA PANEL )N !ENEAS WAS MADE A CARDINAL PANEL AND JUST TWO YEARS LATER WAS ELECTED POPE PANEL TAKING THE TITLE 0IUS )) )N POLITICAL TERMS HIS EIGHT YEAR RULE WAS NOT A GREAT PAPACY DESPITE HIS UNDOUBTED HUMANISM AND DIPLOMATIC SKILL WITH MUCH OF THE TIME WASTED IN CRUSHING THE BARONS OF 2OMAGNA AND THE -ARCHE 4HE CRUSADE HE CALLED IN AT -ANTUA PANEL TO REGAIN #ONSTAN TINOPLE FROM THE 4URKS n WHO TOOK THE CITY IN n CAME TO NOTHING AND THE LAST PICTURE OF THE SERIES PANEL SHOWS HIS DEATH AT !NCONA WHERE HE HAD GONE TO ENCOURAGE THE TROOPS )T WAS SAID THAT HIS DEATH WAS BROUGHT ON BY GRIEF FOR THE FAILURE TO GET THE CRUSADE OFF THE GROUND OR POSSIBLY BY POISONING BY THE TROOPS EAGER TO TERMINATE THEIR PLEDGE "ETWEEN THESE TWO PANELS IS THE EVENT FOR WHICH 3IENA MOST REMEMBERS HIM n THE CANONIZATION OF 3T #ATHERINE )N ART HISTORY TERMS 0INTURICCHIO STANDS AS A RELATIVELY MINOR lGURE /RIGINALLY FROM 0ERUGIA HE WORKED WITH 0ERUGINO IN THE 3ISTINE #HAPEL BEFORE BEGIN NING THIS HIS ACKNOWLEDGED MASTERPIECE IN (IS SKILLS LIE IN THE BRILLIANT COLOURING THE NATURALISTIC DETAIL n THE STORM SCENE IN !ENEASS DEPARTURE FOR "ASLE IS ONE OF THE lRST IN 7ESTERN ART n AND IN AN EASY DISPOSITION OF CROWDS IDEAL FOR THE PAGEANTS HERE AND ENHANCED BY THEIR ILLUSIONISTIC PLACING WITHIN A SERIES OF LOGGIAS 4HE LIBRARY IS NOW USED TO DISPLAY THE CATHEDRALS CHOIRBOOKS ILLUMINATED BY 3ANO DI 0IETRO AND OTHER 3IENESE 'OTHICS !T THE CENTRE OF THE ROOM IS DISPLAYED A 2OMAN STATUE OF THE 4HREE 'RACES SUPPOSEDLY COPIED FROM A LOST 'REEK WORK BY 0RAXITELES )T WAS BOUGHT BY THE 0ICCOLOMINI NEPHEW AND WAS USED AS A MODEL BY 0INTURICCHIO AND 2APHAEL
4HE "APTISTERY
4HE CATHEDRAL "APTISTERY DAILY -ARCHn-AY 3EPT AMnPM *UNEn!UG HOURS VARY BUT USUALLY AMnPM /CT AMnPM REST OF YEAR AMnPM nPM + OR + WITH JOINT TICKET n SEE P CONTAINS ONE OF THE CITYS GREAT 2ENAISSANCE WORKS n A HEXAGONAL FONT WITH SCENES ILLUSTRAT ING THE "APTISTS LIFE )TS UNUSUAL IN BEING PLACED BENEATH THE MAIN BODY OF THE CHURCH TO REACH IT TURN LEFT OUT OF THE $UOMO FOLLOW THE WALLS LEFT AND THEN TAKE THE mIGHT OF STEPS LEADING DOWN BEHIND THE CATHEDRAL 4HE CATHEDRAL CHAPTER RESPONSIBLE FOR THE FONT n MUST HAVE HAD A GOOD SENSE OF WHAT WAS HAPPENING IN &LORENCE AT THE TIME FOR THEY MANAGED TO COMMISSION PANELS BY 'HIBERTI "APTISM OF #HRIST AND *OHN IN 0RISON AND $ONATELLO (ERODS &EAST AS WELL AS BY THE LOCAL SCULPTOR *ACOPO DELLA 1UER CIA 4HE !NGEL !NNOUNCING THE "APTISTS "IRTH *ACOPO ALSO EXECUTED THE MARBLE TABERNACLE ABOVE AND THE SUMMIT STATUE OF *OHN THE "APTIST AND lVE NICHE STATUES OF THE 0ROPHETS /F THE MAIN PANELS $ONATELLOS SCENE IN PARTICULAR IS A SUPERB PIECE OF DRAMA WITH (EROD AND HIS CRONIES RECOILING AT THE APPEARANCE OF THE "APTISTS HEAD $ONATELLO WAS ALSO RESPONSIBLE FOR TWO OF THE CORNER ANGELS
! HISTORY OF 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA 3CALA
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!CCORDING TO LEGEND THE HOSPITAL OF 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA 3CALA WAS FOUNDED BY "EATO 3ORORE A NINTH CENTURY COBBLER TURNED MONK WHO WORKED AMONG ORPHANS A STORY GIVEN CREDENCE BY THE REPUTED DISCOVERY OF HIS hTOMBv IN 3ORORE WAS ALMOST CERTAINLY MYTHICAL HIS NAME A CORRUPTION OF SUORE OR NUNS WHO FOR CENTURIES TENDED THE SICK AS A PART OF THEIR VOCATION 4HE HOSPITAL WAS PROBABLY FOUNDED BY THE CATHEDRALS CANONS THE lRST WRITTEN RECORD OF ITS EXISTENCE APPEARING IN )TS DEVELOPMENT WAS PROMPTED BY THE PROXIMITY OF THE 6IA &RANCIGENA A VITAL TRADE AND PILGRIMAGE ROUTE BETWEEN 2OME AND NORTHERN %UROPE WHICH IN THE EARLY -IDDLE !GES REPLACED THE DETERIORATING 2OMAN CONSULAR ROADS USED PREVIOUSLY )TS ROUTE PASSED BELOW 3IENAS WALLS GIVING RISE TO THE GROWTH OF NUMEROUS REST PLACES OSPEDALI WHERE TRAVELLERS AND PILGRIMS COULD SEEK SHELTER AND SUCCOUR 3OME FORTY OF THESE GREW UP IN 3IENESE TERRITORY ALONE THE MOST IMPORTANT OF WHICH WAS 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA 3CALA )NITIALLY PILGRIMS WERE THE MAIN CONCERN HOSPITAL WORK IN THE MODERN SENSE CAME LATER hHOSPITALITY RATHER THAN HOSPITALIZATIONv WAS THE CREDO 4HE FOUNDATION WAS ONE OF THE lRST %UROPEAN EXAMPLES OF THE 8ENODOCHIUM LITERALLY AN hABODEv A HOSPITAL THAT NOT ONLY LOOKED AFTER THE SICK BUT COULD ALSO BE USED AS A REFUGE AND FOOD KITCHEN FOR AN ENTIRE TOWN IN TIMES OF FAMINE AND PLAGUE 4HIS ROLE MADE IT A VITAL PART OF THE CITYS SOCIAL FABRIC ITS IMPORTANCE LEADING TO A LONG RUNNING AND ILL MANNERED TUSSLE BETWEEN LAY AND SECULAR AUTHORITIES )N TIME IT PASSED FROM THE CATHEDRAL CANONS INTO THE HANDS OF HOSPITAL FRIARS AND IN AFTER AN INTENSE DISPUTE INTO THE CARE OF THE COMUNE WHO APPOINTED ITS RECTORS AND GOV ERNING BODY !LMS AND BEQUESTS OF MONEY OVER THE CENTURIES KEPT IT RICHLY ENDOWED THE 3IENESE TAKING TO HEART 3T 0AULS STRICTURE THAT CHARITY WAS THE MOST IMPORTANT OF THE THREE #ARDINAL 6IRTUES 3OME OF THE DONATED FUNDS WERE DIVERTED AWAY FROM HUMANITARIAN CONCERNS AND INTO ARTISTIC AND ARCHITECTURAL COMMISSIONS AS EARLY AS 3IENAS BISHOP GAVE PERMISSION FOR 3ANTA -ARIAS ABBOT TO BUILD A CHURCH THE PRECURSOR OF THE PRESENT 3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATA )N THE HOSPITAL COMMISSIONED 3IMONE -ARTINI AND 0IET RO AND !MBROGIO ,ORENZETTI THE CITYS THREE LEADING PAINTERS TO FRESCO THE BUILDINGS EXTERIOR FACADE WORKS THAT HAVE SINCE BEEN LOST TO THE ELEMENTS )N IT PAID AN EXORBITANT SUM TO ACQUIRE FROM #ONSTANTINOPLE A NAIL USED DURING THE 0ASSION A PIECE OF THE 4RUE #ROSS AND A PART OF THE 6IRGINS GIRDLE ALONG WITH A MISCELLANY OF SAINTS RELICS )N IT lNANCED THE SETTING OF A STONE BENCH ALONG THE LENGTH OF THE HOSPITALS EXTERIOR ITS ORIGINAL PURPOSE BEING TO PROVIDE THE HOSPITALS DIGNITARIES WITH SOMEWHERE TO SIT DURING THE CITYS INTERMINABLE RELIGIOUS AND CIVIC CEREMONIES n AND STILL MUCH USED TODAY AS A SHADY SPOT FROM WHICH TO VIEW THE FACADE OF THE $UOMO
&AITH AND (OPE AND WITH 'IOVANNI DI 4URINO FOR THE MINIATURE ANGELS ON THE TABERNACLE ABOVE 4HE LAVISHLY FRESCOED WALLS ALMOST OVERSHADOW THE FONT THEIR NINETEENTH CEN TURY OVERPAINTING HAVING BEEN REMOVED AFTER A VIGOROUS ASSAULT BY THE RESTOR ERS 7ITH YOUR BACK TO THE ENTRANCE THE BEST INCLUDE ON THE LEFT ARCHED VAULT LUNETTE A FRESCO OF SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF 3T !NTHONY BY "ENVENUTO DI 'IOVANNI A PUPIL OF 6ECCHIETTA SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF #HRIST BY 6ECCHIETTA HIM SELF INSIDE LEFT WALL OF THE CENTRAL STEPPED CHAPEL AND THE SAME ARTISTS 0ROPHETS 3IBYLS AND !RTICLES OF THE #REED THE MAIN VAULTS THE LAST A REPEAT OF A THEME HE WOULD USE IN THE /SPEDALE DI 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA 3CALA SEE P
3ANTA -ARIA DELLA 3CALA 4HE COMPLEX OF 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA 3CALA DAILY MID -ARCH TO /CT AMn PM REST OF YEAR AMnPM + FOR JOINT TICKETS SEE P WWW
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SANTAMARIACOMUNESIENAIT OPPOSITE THE $UOMO SERVED AS THE CITYS HOSPITAL FOR OVER EIGHT HUNDRED YEARS LISTING AMONG ITS CHARITABLE WORKERS 3T #ATHERINE AND 3T "ERNARDINO )TS CLOSURE IN AROUSED MIXED FEELINGS FOR THE FUNCTION ING BUILDING GAVE A SENSE OF PURPOSE TO THE CATHEDRAL SQUARE WHICH WONT BE MATCHED BY ITS INTENDED USE AS 3IENAS PRINCIPAL CULTURAL AND MUSEUM SPACE !T THE SAME TIME THE COMUNES GRANDIOSE PLANS FOR THE ENORMOUS BUILDING n WHICH INCLUDE A NEW HOME FOR THE 0INACOTECA .AZIONALE n MEAN THAT SOME EXTRAOR DINARY WORKS LONG HIDDEN FROM ALL BUT THE MOST DETERMINED VISITORS ARE NOW ON PUBLIC VIEW FOR THE lRST TIME IN CENTURIES 7HILE SOME OF THE COMPLEX STILL REMAINS OFF LIMITS THE LAST FEW YEARS HAVE SEEN THE RESTORATION AND OPENING OF THE CHURCH OF 3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATA THE #APPELLA DEL 3ACRO #HIODO WITH ITS HIGHLY ACCLAIMED FRESCO CYCLE BY 6ECCHIETTA A BEAUTIFUL "ECCAFUMI FRESCO IN THE #APPELLA DEL -ANTO THE /RA TORIO DI 3ANTA #ATERINA DELLA .OTTE A lNELY DECORATED SUBTERRANEAN CHAPEL USED BY AMONG OTHERS 3T #ATHERINE AND ADJACENT TO THIS *ACOPO DELLA 1UERCIAS ORIGINAL MARBLE PANELS FROM THE &ONTE 'AIA IN THE &IENILE "EST OF ALL IN THE 3ALA DEL 0ELLEGRINAIO IS A VAST SECULAR FRESCO CYCLE BY $OMENICO DI "ARTOLO A WORK NOW TALKED OF AS THIRD ONLY TO THE FRESCOES IN THE $UOMO AND 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO IN 3IENAS ARTISTIC PANTHEON 3IENAS -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO OCCUPIES THE CONVERTED BASEMENT OF THE BUILDING 3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATA AND THE #APPELLA DEL -ANTO
4O THE LEFT OF THE TICKET DESK AND ALSO WITH ITS OWN DOOR ONTO 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO IS THE CHURCH OF 3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATA WHOLLY WITHIN THE COMPLEX OF 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA 3CALA 2EMODELLED IN THE lFTEENTH CENTURY THE CHURCH IS DISAPPOINTINGLY BLAND BUT WORTH A LOOK FOR THE HIGH ALTARS MARVELLOUS BRONZE STATUE OF THE 2ISEN #HRIST BY 6ECCHIETTA ITS FEATURES SO GAUNT THE VEINS SHOW THROUGH THE SKIN 6ECCHIETTA CLEARLY UNDERSTOOD AND ABSORBED THE NEW APPROACH OF $ONATELLO AND SEVERAL ART HISTORIANS CONSIDER THIS THE lNEST 2ENAISSANCE SCULPTURE IN THE CITY "EFORE THE CHURCHS REMODELLING FRESCOES BY 6ECCHIETTA HAD ENTIRELY COVERED ITS WALLS A LOSS AS TANTALIZING AS THE MISSING -ARTINI AND ,ORENZETTI FRESCOES ON THE HOSPITALS EXTERIOR 4HE OTHER WAY FROM THE TICKET OFlCE LEADS INTO A SMALL VESTIBULE KNOWN AS THE #APPELLA DEL -ANTO WHICH CONTAINS AN ARRESTING AND BEAUTIFULLY RESTORED FRESCO OF 3T !NNE AND 3T *OACHIM THE EARLIEST MAJOR WORK IN 3IENA BY THE -ANNERIST $OMENICO "ECCAFUMI 4HE PROTAGONISTS DEPICTED ARE THE PARENTS OF THE 6IRGIN WHOSE STORY n POPULAR IN 4USCAN PAINTING n IS TOLD IN THE APOCRYPHAL GOSPELS BIBLICAL ADJUNCTS REINTRODUCED TO THE MEDIEVAL WORLD IN THE 'OLDEN ,EGEND BY *ACOPO DA 6ORAGINE (AVING FAILED TO CONCEIVE DURING TWENTY YEARS OF MARRIAGE THE PAIR ARE EACH TOLD BY AN ANGEL TO MEET AT *ERUSALEMS 'OLDEN 'ATE (ERE THEY KISS THE SCENE DEPICTED IN THE FRESCO A MOMENT WHICH SYMBOLIZES THE )MMACULATE #ONCEPTION OF THEIR DAUGHTER 3ALA DEL 0ELLEGRINAIO
5PLIFTED BY CONTEMPLATION OF THIS EVENT YOU TURN LEFT FROM THE #APPELLA DEL -ANTO INTO A VAST HALL A MAJESTIC WHITEWASHED SPACE TYPICAL OF THE hLONGITUDI NALv ARCHITECTURAL ELEMENTS INTRODUCED INTO )TALY BY &RENCH #ISTERCIANS TRAVELLING THE 6IA &RANCIGENA AND NOW PARTLY USED AS A BOOKSHOP 4URNING IMMEDIATELY LEFT ROOMS OFF TO THE RIGHT ARE USED FOR TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS BRINGS YOU INTO ANOTHER SIMILARLY ELONGATED SPACE THE 3ALA DEL 0ELLEGRINAIO ITS WALLS COM PLETELY COVERED IN A FRESCO CYCLE OF EPISODES FROM THE HISTORY OF 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA 3CALA BY $OMENICO DI "ARTOLO AND 6ECCHIETTA )NCREDIBLY THIS ASTOUNDING SPACE WAS USED AS A HOSPITAL WARD UNTIL RELATIVELY RECENTLY
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4HE WARD WAS BUILT AROUND AND THE FRESCOES BEGUN IN THEIR AIM BEING TO NOT ONLY RECORD SCENES FROM THE HOSPITALS HISTORY BUT ALSO TO PROMOTE THE NOTION OF CHARITY TOWARDS THE SICK AND n IN PARTICULAR n THE ORPHANED WHOSE CARE HAD BEEN A LARGE PART OF THE HOSPITALS EARLY FUNCTION 4HEIR ALMOST ENTIRELY SECULAR CONTENT WAS EXTRAORDINARY AT THE TIME THEY WERE PAINTED STILL SOME YEARS SHORT OF THE PERIOD WHEN 2ENAISSANCE IDEAS WOULD ALLOW FOR OTHER THAN RELIGIOUS NARRATIVES )TS WELL WORTH TAKING THE TROUBLE TO STUDY THE EIGHT MAJOR PANELS IN DETAIL n EACH IS FULL OF INSIGHTS INTO THE 3IENESE DAILY LIFE OF THE TIME n ALONG WITH THE TWO PAINTINGS ON THE END WALL BY THE WINDOW 4HE CYCLE STARTS AT THE LEFT END OF THE LEFT WALL AND MOVES CLOCKWISE 4HE LEFT WALL
4HE lRST PANEL 4HE $REAM OF THE -OTHER OF "EATO 3ORORE IS BY 6ECCHIETTA HIS ONLY CONTRIBUTION TO THE CYCLE )T DEPICTS IN PART A DREAM IN WHICH THE MOTHER OF 3ORORE THE HOSPITALS MYTHICAL FOUNDER FORESEES HER SONS DESTINY (ER VISION FOCUSES ON THE ABANDONED CHILDREN OF THE HOSPITAL THE GETTATELLI FROM GETTARE TO THROW AWAY WHO ARE SHOWN ASCENDING TO 0ARADISE AND THE WAITING ARMS OF THE -ADONNA 3ORORE IS SHOWN TWICE ON THE RIGHT OF THE PAINTING WITH UPRAISED HAND RECEIVING THE lRST GETTATELLO AND KNEELING AT THE FOOT OF THE CHILD lLLED LADDER 4HIS LADDER SCALA IS THE KEY TO THE 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA 3CALA WHICH MAY TAKE ITS NAME FROM THIS PART OF THE LEGEND !NOTHER VERSION OF THE STORY SUGGESTS THAT A THREE RUNGED LADDER A SYMBOL OF THE 4RIN ITY WAS FOUND DURING THE HOSPITALS CONSTRUCTION n ALTHOUGH THE MORE LIKELY EXPLANATION IS THAT THE HOSPITAL WAS SIMPLY BUILT OPPOSITE THE STEPS OR SCALA OF THE $UOMO 7HATEVER THE ORIGINS A THREE RUNGED LADDER SURMOUNTED BY A CROSS IS THE SYMBOL YOU NOW SEE PLASTERED ALL OVER THE MUSEUMS LITERATURE AND DISPLAYS
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4HE SECOND PANEL 4HE "UILDING OF THE (OSPITAL DEPICTS A MOUNTED BISHOP OF 3IENA AT THE HEAD OF A PROCESSION PASSING THE HOSPITAL WHICH IS IN THE PROCESS OF BEING BUILT AND ALMOST RUNNING DOWN A STONEMASON IN THE PROCESS .OTE THE BUILDINGS A STRANGE MIXTURE OF 'OTHIC AND 2ENAISSANCE THAT BEAR LITTLE RELATION TO ANYTHING IN 3IENA AND THE RECTOR OF THE HOSPITAL PORTRAYED BEHIND THE LAD DER ON THE RIGHT DOFlNG HIS HAT TO THE VISITING DIGNITARIES 4HE THIRD PANEL THE WEAKEST OF THE CYCLE IS BY 0RIAMO DELLA 1UERCIA BROTHER OF THE MORE FAMOUS *ACOPO AND SHOWS THE )NVESTITURE OF THE (OSPITAL 2ECTOR BY THE "LESSED !GOSTINO .OVELLO THE LATTER TRADITIONALLY BUT ERRONEOUSLY CREDITED AS BEING THE AUTHOR OF THE HOSPITALS lRST STATUTE 4HE DECOROUS lGURE ON THE LEFT IS THOUGHT TO BE A PORTRAIT OF %MPEROR 3IGISMONDO WHO PASSED THROUGH 3IENA IN OR MORE PROBABLY A REPRESENTATION OF THE "YZANTINE EMPEROR 0ALEOLOGUS ))) WHO TOOK PART IN THE #OUNCIL OF &LORENCE IN 4HE FOURTH PANEL SHOWS ONE OF 3ANTA -ARIAS DElNING MOMENTS WHEN IN 0OPE #ELESTINE ))) GAVE THE HOSPITAL THE RIGHT TO ELECT ITS OWN RECTOR THUS TRANSFERRING POWER FROM THE RELIGIOUS TO LAY AUTHORITIES &OR THE REST THE FRESCO IS AN EXCUSE TO PORTRAY DAY TO DAY LIFE IN 3IENA n NOTE FOR EXAMPLE THE PREPONDERANCE OF ORIENTAL MERCHANTS 4HE END WALL
4HE PAINTINGS ON EITHER SIDE OF THE END WALL ARE LATE SIXTEENTH CENTURY WORKS BUT ILLUSTRATE TWO FASCINATING ASPECTS OF THE HOSPITALS WORK 4HE VAST NUMBER OF ORPHANS TAKEN IN MEANT THAT AN EQUALLY LARGE NUMBER OF WET NURSES OR BALIATICI WERE NEEDED TO FEED THE INFANTS !T ONE TIME THEIR NUMBERS WERE SUCH THAT FEEDING TOOK PLACE IN THE VAST HALL NOW OCCUPIED BY THE BOOKSHOP 4HE PICTURES HERE SHOW THE NURSES IN ACTION AND THE PAYMENT FOR THEIR SERVICES IN GRAIN ON THE LEFT WALL AND HARD CASH ON THE RIGHT 4HE RIGHT WALL
/N THE LONG RIGHT WALL THE lFTH PANEL THE MOST FAMOUS IN THE CYCLE SHOWS 4HE 4ENDING OF THE 3ICK A PICTURE CRAMMED WITH INCIDENT NOTABLY THE CLOSE SCRUTINY BEING GIVEN TO A URINE SAMPLE BY TWO DOCTORS ON THE LEFT THE YOUTH WITH A LEG WOUND BEING WASHED AND THE RATHER OMINOUS SCENE ON THE RIGHT OF A MONK CONFESSING A PATIENT PRIOR TO SURGERY 4HE SIXTH PANEL SHOWS 4HE $ISTRIBUTION OF #HARITY ONE OF THE HOSPITALS MAIN TASKS AN EVENT THAT TAKES PLACE IN THE OLD HOSPITAL CHURCH NOW REPLACED BY 3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATA WITH THE CENTRAL DOOR OF THE $UOMO JUST VISIBLE IN THE BACKGROUND "READ IS DISTRIBUTED TO BEGGARS PILGRIMS AND CHILDREN ONE OF WHOM PASSES IT ON TO HIS MOTHER AT THE CENTRE AN ORPHAN PUTS ON CLOTHES THAT IT HAS BEEN GIVEN )N ONE STRANGE VIGNETTE A CHILD IS SHOWN TRYING TO EXPRESS MILK FROM ITS MOTHERS BREAST /N THE LEFT MEANWHILE THE HOSPITALS RECTOR IS SHOWN DOFlNG HIS HAT POSSIBLY TO 3IGISMONDO 4HE SEVENTH PANEL ILLUSTRATES FURTHER WORK OF THE HOSPITAL UNDERLINING THE VITAL PART IT PLAYED IN MAINTAINING THE SOCIAL FABRIC OF THE CITY )T SHOWS THE RECEPTION EDUCATION AND MARRIAGE OF ONE OF THE FEMALE ORPHANS WHO WERE PROVIDED WITH A SMALL GRANT DESIGNED TO ENABLE THEM TO MARRY STAY ON IN THE HOSPITAL OR JOIN A CONVENT !LSO INCLUDED ARE DETAILS THAT SUGGEST HOW THE HOSPITAL NOT ONLY TOOK IN CHILDREN BUT COMMITTED ITSELF TO CARING FOR THEM OVER A LONG PERIOD 4HUS THE WET NURSES ARE SHOWN IN ACTION ON THE TABLE TO THE LEFT ALONG WITH SCENES TO SUGGEST WEANING EDUCATION AND PLAY "ARTOLO ALSO SHOWS OFF HIS 2ENAISSANCE CREDENTIALS BY INCLUDING A WEALTH OF EXTRANEOUS DETAIL AS WELL AS HIS ARCANE KNOWLEDGE OF EXOTIC LANDS NOTABLY IN THE CARPET UNDER THE FEET OF THE MARRIED COUPLE WHOSE DRAGON AND PHOENIX SYMBOLS BELONG TO THE PERIOD OF THE -ING DYNASTY
4HE lNAL EIGHTH PANEL WHICH DETAILS THE FEEDING OF THE POOR AND THE ELDERLY IS LESS ENGAGING THAN THE REST PARTLY BECAUSE OF THE AWKWARDLY SITED WINDOW REPUTEDLY BUILT BY A NINETEENTH CENTURY SUPERINTENDENT SO THAT HE COULD SURVEY THE SICK FROM HIS UPPER mOOR OFlCE WITHOUT THE BOTHER OF HAVING TO GO DOWN INTO THE WARD 4HE #APPELLA DEL 3ACRO #HIODO
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3OME IDEA OF WHAT WAS LOST IN THE REMODELLING OF 3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATA CAN BE GRASPED IN 6ECCHIETTAS FRESCO CYCLE n IN THE #APPELLA DEL 3ACRO #HIODO SO NAMED BECAUSE IT ONCE HOUSED THE NAIL CHIODO FROM THE 0ASSION AND OTHER HOLY RELICS ITS ALSO KNOWN AS THE 3AGRESTIA 6ECCHIA REACHED THROUGH THE SMALL #APPELLA DELLA -ADONNA BESIDE THE 3ALA DEL 0ELLEGRINAIO 3OME ART CRITICS PAY THESE FRESCOES MORE ATTENTION THAN THE "ARTOLO CYCLE IN THE 3ALA DEL 0ELLEGRINAIO BUT FOR THE CASUAL VIEWER THEY ARE LESS EASY TO INTERPRET PRINCIPALLY BECAUSE THE SUBJECT MATTER n AN ILLUSTRATION OF THE !RTICLES OF THE #REED n REQUIRES SOME THEOLOGICAL KNOWLEDGE )F YOU CAN MANAGE THE )TALIAN HOWEVER THE VARI OUS PANELS AND VAULTS ARE WELL DESCRIBED %ACH LUNETTE ILLUSTRATES ONE OR MORE ARTICLES THE lGURE OF ONE OF THE !POSTLES TO THE RIGHT HOLDING THE TEXT OF THE ARTICLE IN QUESTION THE SCENES BELOW OR TO THE LEFT DEPICTING AN EPISODE FROM THE /LD 4ESTAMENT WHICH EMBODIES THE ARTICLES MEANING 4HE FRESCOES ARE EXTREMELY UNUSUAL PARTLY IN THAT THEY ILLUSTRATE A WRITTEN TEXT n SOMETHING THAT REMAINED RARE UNTIL MUCH LATER IN THE 2ENAISSANCE n AND PARTLY IN THAT THEY REVOLVE AROUND THE lGURE OF #HRIST DEPICTED TWICE IN THE MAIN VAULTS 4HE LATTER WAS A STRANGE CHOICE IN A CITY DEDICATED TO THE -ADONNA WHERE VIRTUALLY EVERY WORK OF NOTE EITHER EULOGIZES 3IENA ITSELF OR INCLUDES #HRIST ONLY AS AN ADJUNCT TO THE 6IRGIN )TS THOUGHT THAT THE CHOICE WAS SUG GESTED BY THE hNAIL FROM THE #ROSSv CONTAINED IN THE CHAPEL A RELIC WITH OBVIOUS RELEVANCE TO THE STORY OF #HRIST $OMENICO DI "ARTOLOS HIGH ALTARPIECE THE -ADONNA DELLA -ISERICORDIA IS MORE INTELLIGIBLE THAN MUCH OF THE CYCLE AND SHOWS THE -ADONNA CASTING A PROTECTIVE CLOAK OVER VARIOUS OF 3IENAS INHABITANTS 4HIS THEME A COMMON ONE IN 3IENESE AND OTHER CENTRAL )TALIAN WORKS DERIVES FROM A VISION OF THE -ADONNA EXPERIENCED BY A NINTH CENTURY #ISTERCIAN MONK !T lRST PAINTERS DEPICTED ONLY MEMBERS OF THE RELIGIOUS ORDERS BENEATH THE PROTECTIVE CLOAK MONKS TO ONE SIDE NUNS TO THE OTHER !T THE BEGINNING OF THE TWELFTH CENTURY MEMBERS OF RELI GIOUS CONFRATERNITIES WERE ALLOWED PROTECTION AND A FEW DECADES LATER THE PRIVI LEGE WAS EXTENDED TO ALL INHABITANTS OF A TOWN OR CITY -EN AND WOMEN USUALLY REMAINED SEGREGATED HOWEVER WHICH MAKES THIS VERSION n IN WHICH THEYRE MIXED n UNUSUAL 4HE FRESCO ONCE GRACED THE #APPELLA DEL -ANTO SEE ABOVE THE 6IRGINS CLOAK MANTO HAVING GIVEN THE CHAPEL ITS NAME )T WAS DETACHED AND lXED HERE IN ITS SIDE PARTS TORN AWAY TO lT THE DIMENSIONS OF THE NEW ALTAR IN HOWEVER THE DISCARDED FRAGMENTS WERE FOUND AND REATTACHED 4HE REST OF 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA 3CALA
3TAIRS LEAD DOWN TO THE &IENILE THE HOSPITALS OLD HAYLOFT NOW HOUSING *ACOPO DELLA 1UERCIAS ORIGINAL MARBLE PANELS FROM THE &ONTE 'AIA n TRANS FERRED HERE FROM THE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO 7ITH THEIR SERIOUS STATE OF EROSION IT WAS HARD TO APPRECIATE THAT *ACOPO DELLA 1UERCIA WAS RATED BY 6ASARI ON A PAR WITH $ONATELLO AND 'HIBERTI WITH WHOM HE COMPETED FOR THE COMMISSION OF &LORENCES "APTISTERY DOORS -ICHELANGELO TOO WAS AN ADMIRER STRUCK PERHAPS BY THE PHYSICALITY EVIDENT IN THE %XPULSION OF !DAM AND %VE !DJACENT IS THE /RATORIO DI 3ANTA #ATERINA DELLA .OTTE WHICH BELONGED TO ONE OF A NUMBER OF THE MEDIEVAL CONFRATERNITIES WHO MAINTAINED ORATORIES
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IN THE BASEMENT VAULTS OF THE HOSPITAL )TS A DARK AND STRANGELY SPOOKY PLACE DESPITE THE WEALTH OF DECORATION YOU CAN EASILY IMAGINE 3T #ATHERINE PASSING NOCTURNAL VIGILS DOWN HERE %VEN IF YOU PROVE IMMUNE TO THE ATMOSPHERE ITS WORTH COMING DOWN HERE FOR 4ADDEO DI "ARTOLOS SUMPTUOUS TRIPTYCH OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 33 !NDREW AND *OHN THE "APTIST 3TAIRS LEAD DOWN AGAIN TO THE LAVISHLY DECORATED #OMPAGNIA DELLA -ADON NA SOTTO LE 6OLTE THE ORATORY AND MEETING ROOM OF THE 3OCIETÌ DI %SECUTORI DI 0IE $IPOSIZIONI THE OLDEST OF THE LAY CONFRATERNITIES WHERE YOULL lND A WOODEN CRUCIlX SAID TO BE THE ONE THAT INSPIRED 3T "ERNARDINO TO BECOME A MONK &ROM THE SMALL COLUMNED COURTYARD #ORTICELLA BACK ON THE &IENILE LEVEL YOU ENTER THE MEDIEVAL STOREROOMS n NOW USED FOR TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS n FROM WHERE STAIRS LEAD DOWN INTO THE SPACIOUS LABYRINTH OF THE -USEO !RCHEO LOGICO WHICH HOUSES PRIVATE COLLECTIONS FROM THE LATE NINETEENTH CENTURY AND PLENTY OF LOCAL lNDS FROM EXCAVATION WORK IN AND AROUND 3IENA #HIANTI THE UPPER 6AL D%LSA AND %TRUSCAN -URLO
4HE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO 4UCKED INTO A CORNER OF THE PROPOSED n AND ABANDONED n NEW NAVE OF THE $UOMO IS THE IMPRESSIVE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO DAILY MID -ARCH TO 3EPT AMnPM /CT AMnPM REST OF YEAR AMnPM + JOINT TICKETS SEE P WWWOPERADUOMOIT WHICH OFFERS THE BONUS OF SOME lNE VIEWS OVER 3IENA /N THE GROUND mOOR IN THE 'ALLERIA DELLE 3TATUE THE STATUARY BY 'IOVANNI 0ISANO n SEEMS A LITTLE BIZARRE WHEN DISPLAYED AT EYE LEVEL THE HUGE ELONGATED TWISTING lGURES ARE OBVIOUSLY ADJUSTED TO TAKE ACCOUNT OF THE ORIGINAL VIEWING POSITION WHICH WAS RANGED ACROSS THE $UOMOS FACADE 4HEY ARE TOTALLY 'OTHIC IN CONCEPTION AND FOR ALL THEIR SUBJECT MATTER n PHILOSOPHERS FROM ANTIQUITY ARE REPRESENTED ALONGSIDE /LD 4ESTAMENT PROPHETS AND OTHER CHARAC TERS n SHOW LITTLE OF HIS FATHER .ICOLAS EXPERIMENT WITH CLASSICAL FORMS ON THE CATHEDRAL PULPIT )N MARKED CONTRAST IS $ONATELLOS OCHRE COLOURED -ADONNA AND #HILD A DELICATE PIECE IN THE CENTRE OF THE ROOM REMOVED FROM THE DOOR OF THE $UOMOS SOUTH TRANSEPT ALONGSIDE A BAS RELIEF BY *ACOPO DELLA 1UERCIA OF 3T !NTHONY !BBOT AND #ARDINAL !NTONIO #ASINI 5PSTAIRS A CURATOR ADMITS YOU TO THE 3ALA DI $UCCIO CURTAINED AND CAREFULLY LIT TO DISPLAY THE ARTISTS VAST AND JUSTLY CELEBRATED -AESTÌ /RIGINALLY PAINTED ON BOTH SIDES IT DEPICTS THE -ADONNA AND #HILD %NTHRONED OR -AESTÌ AND THE 3TORY OF THE 0ASSION 4HE FOUR SAINTS IN THE FRONT RANK OF THE MAIN PAINTING THE -AESTÌ ARE 3IENAS PATRON SAINTS AT THE TIME !NSANO 3AVINO #RESCENZIO AND 6ITTORE WHILE THE TEN SMALLER lGURES AT THE REAR OF THE MASSED RANKS REPRESENT TEN OF THE !POSTLES 0ETER AND 0AUL ARE IN THE SECOND RANK ACCOMPANIED BY *OHN THE "APTIST AND OTHER SAINTS /N ITS COMPLETION IN THE WORK WAS AS FAR AS SCHOLARS CAN ASCERTAIN THE MOST EXPENSIVE PAINTING EVER COMMISSIONED AND HAD OCCUPIED $UCCIO FOR ALMOST FOUR YEARS )T WAS TAKEN IN A CEREMONIAL PROCESSION FROM $UCCIOS STUDIO AROUND THE #AMPO AND THEN TO A SPECIAL -ASS IN THE $UOMO EVERYTHING IN THE CITY WAS CLOSED AND VIRTUALLY THE ENTIRE POPU LATION ATTENDED )T THEN REMAINED ON THE $UOMOS HIGH ALTAR UNTIL 4HIS IS ONE OF THE SUPERLATIVE WORKS OF 3IENESE ART n ITS ICONIC "YZANTINE SPIRITUALITY ACCENTUATED BY $UCCIOS mOWING COMPOSITION AND A NEW ATTENTION TO NARRATIVE DETAIL IN THE PANELS OF THE PREDELLA AND THE REVERSE OF THE ALTARPIECE BOTH NOW DISPLAYED TO ITS SIDE 4HE -AESTÌ n THE 6IRGIN AS 1UEEN OF (EAVEN SURROUNDED BY HER hCOURTv OF SAINTS n WAS A 3IENESE INVENTION DESIGNED AS A hSACRIlCEv TO THE 6IRGIN THE CITYS
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\ 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO
PATRON THE CONSECRATION TOOK PLACE IN A QUALITY EMPHASIZED BY THE LAVISH USE OF GOLD $UCCIOS RENDERING OF THE THEME WAS ESSENTIALLY THE PROTOTYPE FOR THE NEXT THREE CENTURIES OF 3IENESE PAINTERS HIS ACHIEVEMENT AS "ERNARD "EREN SON PUT IT WAS TO ADD hTHE DRAMA OF LIGHT TO THAT OF MOVEMENT AND EXPRESSIONv AND A REALIZATION OF THE SPACE IN WHICH ACTION TAKES PLACE 4HIS QUALITY IS BEST OBSERVED IN THE NARRATIVE PANELS MOST OF WHICH HAVE BEEN GATHERED HERE AFTER THE ALTARPIECES DISMEMBERMENT IN AND ITS REMOVAL TO THE MUSEUM IN /NLY A HANDFUL OF PANELS ARE MISSING AND n TO QUITE UNDER STANDABLE LOCAL DISGUST n WILL NOT BE RELEASED BY THEIR OWNERS TO THE CITY TWO ARE IN 7ASHINGTON THREE IN ,ONDONS .ATIONAL 'ALLERY AND THREE IN THE &RICK AND 2OCKEFELLER COLLECTIONS IN .EW 9ORK /NE OF THE MOST EFFECTIVE OF THE SURVIV ING PANELS IS THE "ETRAYAL OF *UDAS WHERE TREES RELIEVE THE MAIN GROUP OF lGURES n #HRIST IS hPOINTEDv BY THE CENTRAL TREE n AND ROWS OF LANCES BREAK THE GOLDEN SKY 4HE $ESCENT FROM THE #ROSS TOO IS A MARVELLOUSLY COMPOSED IMAGE !LSO IN THE ROOM IS A -ADONNA DI #REVOLE AN EARLY WORK BY $UCCIO AND 0IETRO ,ORENZETTIS TRIPTYCH OF THE .ATIVITY OF THE 6IRGIN THE LATTER REMARKABLE FOR BREAK ING WITH THE TRADITION OF TRIPTYCH PAINTING BY RUNNING A SINGLE SCENE ACROSS TWO OF THE PAINTINGS THREE PANELS 4HE GILDED STATUES IN THE ROOM OFF TO THE RIGHT OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH &OUR 3AINTS ARE ATTRIBUTED TO *ACOPO DELLA 1UERCIA AS IS THE SEPARATE STATUE OF 3T *OHN THE "APTIST )N THE ROOM BEHIND THE 3ALA IS A FASCINATING NINETEENTH CENTURY DRAWING OF THE CATHEDRAL PAVEMENT PROVIDING A UNIlED VIEW IMPOSSIBLE ON THE SPOT &OR THE ART THAT FOLLOWED $UCCIO AND SOME THAT PRECEDED HIM YOU NEED TO MAKE YOUR WAY UPSTAIRS AGAIN (ERE YOU ENTER THE 3ALA DI 4ESORO FEATUR ING AMID ITS RELIQUARIES THE HEAD OF 3T 'ALGANO AND A STARTLING #HRIST ON THE #ROSS AN IMPORTANT EARLY WORK IN WOOD BY 'IOVANNI 0ISANO IN WHICH #HRIST IS SHOWN ON A 9 SHAPED TREE GROWING OUT OF THE SKULL OF !DAM 4HE LATTER SYMBOLIZES THE 4REE OF ,IFE OR 4REE OF +NOWLEDGE WHICH GREW FROM A SPRIG PLANTED IN THE DEAD !DAMS MOUTH AND WOULD n IN THE APOCRYPHAL STORY n EVENTUALLY YIELD THE WOOD USED TO CRUCIFY #HRIST 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCA TELLS THIS STORY IN !REZZOS FRESCO CYCLE DEPICTING THE 3TORY OF THE 4RUE #ROSS FOR THE FULL STORY SEE P "EYOND THE 3ALA DI 4ESORO YOU REACH THE 3ALA DELLA -ADONNA DAGLI /CCHI 'ROSSI 4HE WORK THAT GIVES ITS NAME TO THIS ROOM IS THE CATHEDRALS ORIGINAL PRE $UCCIO ALTARPIECE n A STARK HAUNTING "YZANTINE ICON LITERALLY THE h-ADON NA OF THE "IG %YESv IN THE CENTRE OF THE ROOM )T OCCUPIES A SPECIAL PLACE IN 3IENESE HISTORY FOR IT WAS BEFORE THIS PAINTING THAT 3IENAS ENTIRE POPULATION CAME TO PRAY BEFORE THEIR FAMOUS VICTORY OVER THE &LORENTINES AT -ONTAPERTI IN )T WAS ALSO A PROMISE MADE IN FRONT OF THE PAINTING PRIOR TO THE BATTLE THAT SAW 3IENA DEDICATED TO THE -ADONNA IN THE AFTERMATH OF VICTORY !ROUND IT ARE GROUPED A lNE ARRAY OF PANELS INCLUDING WORKS BY 3IMONE -ARTINI 0IETRO ,ORENZETTI AND 3ANO DI 0IETRO .OTE THE PANELS mANKING 3ANOS -ADONNA AND #HILD ONE SHOWS 3T "ERNARDINO PREACHING IN THE #AMPO AND 0IAZZA 3AN &RAN CESCO THE LATTER NOW HOME TO THE SAINTS ORATORY SEE P THE OTHER SHOWS 3T !POLLONIA PATRON SAINT OF DENTISTS MARTYRED IN !LEXANDRIA IN THE FOURTH CENTURY FOR REFUSING TO MAKE SACRIlCES TO PAGAN GODS $ONT MISS THE TINY ENTRANCE TO THE SO CALLED 0ANORAMA DAL &ACCIATONE THIS LEADS TO STEEP SPIRAL STAIRS THAT CLIMB OUT OF THE BUILDING UP WITHIN THE WALLS OF THE ABANDONED NAVE 4HE SENSATIONAL VIEW FROM THE TOP OVER THE CITY AND SURROUNDING HILLS IS DElNITELY WORTH THE TWO STAGE CLIMB BUT BEWARE THAT THE TOPMOST WALKWAY n TEETERING ALONG THE VERY SUMMIT OF THE ABANDONED NAVE WALLS n IS NARROW AND SCARILY EXPOSED
4ERZO DI 3AN -ARTINO "ANCHI DI 3OTTO THE MAIN THOROUGHFARE THROUGH THE 4ERZO DI 3AN -ARTINO LEADS SOUTHEAST FROM THE #AMPO PAST THE IMPOSING 2ENAISSANCE BUILDINGS OF 0ALAZZO 0ICCOLOMINI AND THE ,OGGIA DEL 0APA TOWARDS THE MEDIEVAL 3ER VITE ORDERS HUGE MONASTIC BASE 3ANTA -ARIA DEI 3ERVI 3TUDENTS OUTNUMBER TOURISTS IN THIS UNIVERSITY DOMINATED AREA THAT ENDS AT THE SOUTH GATE OF THE CITY 0ORTA 2OMANA BUT THERE IS PLENTY OF SCOPE FOR AIMLESS WANDERING THROUGH THE QUIET BACKSTREETS OFF 6IA 0ANTANETO WITH A LOOP BACK TO THE CENTRE VIA THE CHURCH OF 3AN -ARTINO
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\ 4ERZO DI 3AN -ARTINO
-ARKING THE START OF "ANCHI DI 3OTTO THE MAIN THOROUGHFARE THROUGH 4ERZO DI 3AN -ARTINO IS THE ,OGGIA DI -ERCANZIA OR ,OGGIA DEI -ERCANTI DESIGNED AS A TRIBUNE HOUSE FOR MERCHANTS TO DO THEIR DEALS 4HE STRUCTURE WAS THE RESULT OF EXTRAORDINARY ARCHITECTURAL INDECISION BY THE CITY AUTHORITIES THE CHRONICLES RECORDING THAT hON ONE DAY THEY BUILD IN A CERTAIN WAY AND ON THE FOLLOWING DESTROY AND REBUILD IN A DIFFERENT MANNERv )T WAS COMPLETED IN IN ACCORD INGLY HESITANT STYLE WITH 'OTHIC NICHES FOR THE SAINTS CARVED BY 6ECCHIETTA AND !NTONIO &EDERIGHI TWO OF THE CITYS LEADING 2ENAISSANCE SCULPTORS
0ALAZZO 0ICCOLOMINI &OLLOWING "ANCHI DI 3OTTO FROM THE LOGGIA YOU PASS THE MORE COMMITTED 2ENAISSANCE BUILDINGS OF THE 0ALAZZO 0ICCOLOMINI AT "ANCHI DI 3OTTO AND ,OGGIA DEL 0APA COMMISSIONED IN THE S BY 0OPE 0IUS )) THE 0IENZA BORN !ENEAS 3YLVIUS 0ICCOLOMINI 0IUS WAS THE CITYS GREAT 2ENAISSANCE PATRON AND AN INDEFATIGABLE BUILDER 4HE LOGGIA WAS BUILT IN BY &EDERIGHI 4HE PALACE n ONE OF THREE THE POPE BUILT FOR HIS FAMILY IN THE CITY n WAS DESIGNED BY "ERNARDO 2OSSELLINO ARCHITECT OF 0ICCOLOMINIS FAMOUS hNEW TOWNv OF 0IENZA SEE P NOTE THE HALF MOON SYMBOLS 0IUSS COAT OF ARMS INSINUATED ACROSS MUCH OF THE FACADE 4HE 0ALAZZO 0ICCOLOMINI NOW HOUSES THE !RCHIVIO DI 3TATO THE CITYS ARCHIVES GUIDED VISITS -ONn&RI AT AM AM AM FREE NO BOOK ING REQUIRED AN UNMISSABLE DETOUR BUT ONE MADE BY PROBABLY ONE VISITOR IN lVE HUNDRED TO THE CITY 9OURE TAKEN THROUGH CORRIDORS OF ARCHIVES n GREAT BUN DLES OF VELLUM AND LEATHER BOUND DOCUMENTS FOR EACH OF THE TOWNS AND VILLAGES IN 3IENAS DOMAIN EACH ONE LABELLED IN ANCIENT MEDIEVAL SCRIPT WITH THE YEAR IN QUESTION n A QUITE OVERWHELMING AMOUNT OF INFORMATION FOR ANY POTENTIAL HISTORIAN AND MOST OF IT STILL UNREAD )F YOURE LUCKY YOULL ALSO BE ABLE TO POP OUT ONTO THE PALACES TERRACE WHICH OFFERS A RARELY SEEN VIEW OF THE #AMPO %VENTUALLY YOU COME TO THE -USEO DELLE 4AVOLETTE DI "ICCHERNA CONTAIN ING THE CITYS ACCOUNT BOOKS TAX RECORDS THE 'ABELLE AND HALLOWED MANUSCRIPTS DATING BACK TO THE EARLIEST DAYS OF 3IENAS RECORDED HISTORY 4HE CHIEF EXHIBITS THOUGH ARE THE 4AVOLETTE FASCINATING PAINTED WOODEN PANELS DESIGNED AS COVERS FOR CIVIC RECORDS AND ACCOUNTS WHAT MAKES THEM MORE INTERESTING STILL IS THE FACT THAT THE COMUNE COMMISSIONED SOME OF THE LEADING PAINTERS OF THE DAY TO EXECUTE THE BEAUTIFULLY DETAILED VIGNETTES !MONG THOSE EMPLOYED WERE 3ANO DI 0IETRO AND !MBROGIO ,ORENZETTI WHO PAINTED THE 'ABELLA WITH A VERSION OF HIS 'OOD 'OVERNMENT FRESCO IN THE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO 4HE PAINTINGS BEGAN WITH RELIGIOUS THEMES BUT SOON MOVED TOWARDS SECULAR IMAGES OF CITY LIFE PRO
VIDING A RECORD OF SIX CENTURIES OF 3IENESE HISTORY ,ATER PANELS WERE DESIGNED TO BE HUNG AS PICTURES IN THE COUNCIL OFlCES RATHER THAN MOUNTED ON THE BOOKS 4HE CITY IS DEPICTED FREQUENTLY IN THE BACKGROUND PROTECTED BY THE 6IRGIN AND MUSHROOMING WITH TOWERS n MUCH LIKE 3AN 'IMIGNANO TODAY %ARLY PANELS INCLUDE SEVERAL PICTURES OF THE CAMERLINGO A DUTY ALWAYS lLLED BY A #ISTERCIAN MONK FROM 3AN 'ALGANO DOING THE AUDITS ,ATER ONES MOVE INTO SPECIlC EVENTS VICTORIES OVER THE &LORENTINES 0IUSS CORONATION AS POPE ENTRUSTING THE CITY KEYS TO THE 6IRGIN IN THE $UOMO THE DEMOLITION OF THE 3PANISH FORTRESS THE FALL OF -ONTALCINO THE 3IENESE 2EPUBLICS LAST STAND AND THE ENTRY INTO 3IENA OF #OSIMO ) WAR WITH THE 4URKS AND SUBSEQUENT -EDICEAN EVENTS
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&ROM THE 0ALAZZO 0ICCOLOMINI AND THE ,OGGIA 6IA DI 0ANTANETO 6IA DEL 0OR RIONE OR 6IA DI 3ALICOTTO TAKE YOU QUICKLY AWAY FROM THE BUSTLE AROUND THE #AMPO TOWARDS THE 0ORTA 2OMANA "EFORE SETTING OFF HOWEVER -ANNERIST FANS SHOULD SPEND A COUPLE OF MINUTES IN THE CHURCH OF 3AN -ARTINO FOUNDED IN THE EIGHTH CENTURY OR EARLIER BUT NOW A PALE "AROQUE SHADOW OF ITS FORMER SELF 4HE THIRD ALTAR ON THE LEFT NORTH WALL FEATURES AN OUTSTANDING .ATIVITY n BY $OMENICO "ECCAFUMI A WORK PAINTED AT THE SAME TIME AS THE ARTIST WAS WORKING ON THE $UOMOS PAVEMENT AND ONE WHICH ENCAPSULATES HIS PASSION FOR BIZARRE STRUCTURES AND PECULIAR LIGHT EFFECTS 4HE 6IRGINS STRANGE GES TURE IN WHICH SHE COVERS THE )NFANT *ESUS WITH A VEIL PRElGURES THE #RUCIlXION AT WHICH SHE ALSO COVERS #HRISTS NAKED BODY )N 6IA DI 3ALICOTTO n WHICH RUNS DIRECTLY BEHIND THE 4ORRE DEL -ANGIA A COUPLE OF BLOCKS FROM THE ,OGGIA DEL 0APA n YOU lND YOURSELF IN THE TERRITORY OF THE 4ORRE TOWER CONTRADA 4HEY MAINTAIN A MUSEUM AT NO CLOSED FOR RES TORATION WWWCAPITANODELLATORREIT AND A FOUNTAIN SQUARE A FEW HOUSES BEYOND ! FAMOUS SIGN ON THIS STREET POSTED IN INFORMS THE CITIZENS THAT THE &LORENTINE GOVERNOR FORBIDS PROSTITUTES TO PRACTISE IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD
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3AN -ARTINO
3ANTA -ARIA DEI 3ERVI 6IA DI 3ALICOTTO OR 6IA 3AN -ARTINO BRING YOU SOUTHEAST INTO THE 6ALDIMONTONE CONTRADA WHOSE MUSEUM WWWVALDIMONTONEIT FOUNTAIN AND PARISH CHURCH ARE IN 6IA DI 6ALDIMONTONE ALONGSIDE THE MASSIVE BRICK CHURCH AND CAMPANILE OF 3ANTA -ARIA DEI 3ERVI THE 3ERVITES MONASTIC BASE 4HE CHURCH CLOSED nPM WHICH IS WELL WORTH THE WALK IS SET IN A QUIET PIAZZA APPROACHED BY A ROW OF CYPRESSES AND SHADED BY A COUPLE OF SPREADING TREES n GOOD FOR A MIDDAY PICNIC OR SIESTA )T ALSO OFFERS TREMENDOUS VIEWS ACROSS THE CITY 4HE 2ENAISSANCE REMODELLED INTERIOR IS REMARKABLE FOR A VARIETY OF TOP NOTCH PAINTINGS 4HE lRST ABOVE THE lRST MAIN ALTAR ON THE RIGHT SOUTH WALL IS THE SO CALLED -ADONNA DI "ORDONE BY #OPPO DI -ARCOVALDO A &LO RENTINE ARTIST CAPTURED BY THE 3IENESE AT THE "ATTLE OF -ONTAPERTI AND FORCED TO PAINT THIS PICTURE AS PART OF HIS RANSOM FOR RELEASE 4HE NEXT ALTAR TO THE LEFT FEATURES THE .ATIVITY OF THE 6IRGIN BY 2UTILIO -ANETTI 3IENAS LEADING FOL LOWER OF #ARAVAGGIO 4WO ALTARS DOWN IN THE LAST ALTAR OF THE LEFT AISLE IS -ATTEO DI 'IOVANNIS -ASSACRE OF THE )NNOCENTS ONE OF TWO VERSIONS OF THIS EPISODE IN THE CHURCH AND ONE OF FOUR IN THE CITY BY THE INFANTICIDE OBSESSED -ATTEO 4HE POPULARITY OF THIS SUBJECT IN THE LATE lFTEENTH CENTURY MAY HAVE BEEN DUE TO THE MUCH PUBLICIZED MASSACRE OF #HRISTIAN CHILDREN BY THE 3ARACENS
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\ 4ERZO DI 3AN -ARTINO 5 6IEW FROM 3ANTA -ARIA DEI 3ERVI
AT /TRANTO IN -ATTEOS RENDITION IS A TOUCH LESS BLOOD CRAZED THAN HIS 3ANT!GOSTINO VERSION MOVED TO THE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO SINCE ITS RESTORATION BUT ONLY JUST n CERTAIN FEATURES ARE COMMON TO BOTH INCLUDING THE POWERFUL SENSE OF CLAUSTROPHOBIA AND SEVERAL UNNECESSARILY PERVERSE DETAILS OF WHICH THE MOST DISTURBING ARE THE WOMAN SCRATCHING THE FACE OF THE SOLDIER ABOUT TO DISPATCH HER CHILD AND THE TWO SMILING CHILDREN WATCHING THE MASSACRE FROM THE BALCONY ON THE RIGHT #HEEK BY JOWL VIOLENCE ALSO CHARACTERIZES 0IETRO ,ORENZETTIS MUCH EARLIER VERSION OF THE -ASSACRE WHICH IS FOUND ON THE RIGHT WALL OF THE SECOND CHAPEL TO THE RIGHT OF THE HIGH ALTAR .OTE (EROD WATCHING THE CARNAGE FROM A BALCONY ON THE LEFT 4HE SERENE -ADONNA AND #HILD TO THE RIGHT IS BY 3EGNA DI "ONAVEN TURA NEPHEW OF THE GREAT $UCCIO ,ORENZETTI IS FURTHER REPRESENTED BY DAMAGED FRESCOES OF THE "ANQUET OF (EROD AND THE $EATH OF *OHN THE "APTIST LOCATED ON THE RIGHT WALL OF THE SECOND CHAPEL TO THE LEFT OF THE HIGH ALTAR ! lNE !DORATION OF THE 3HEPHERDS BY ONE OF ,ORENZETTIS FOLLOWERS 4ADDEO DI "ARTOLO HANGS IN THE SAME CHAPEL -OVING TO THE LEFT TRANSEPT INVOLVES A PROGRESSION ALONG A LINE OF 3IENESE ART HISTORY FOR IT CONTAINS A -ADONNA DELLA -ISERICORDIA OR -ADONNA DEL -ANTO BY ONE OF 4ADDEOS PUPILS 'IOVANNI DI 0AOLO 4HE PAINTING SHOWS THE 6IRGIN SHELTERING A GROUP OF NUNS ON ONE SIDE AND A GROUP OF MONKS ON THE OTHER THE LATTER LED BY &ILIPPO "ENIZZI n A &LORENTINE GENERAL OF THE
3ERVITE ORDER $OWN THE NORTH AISLE TOWARDS THE ENTRANCE THE LAST ALTAR BEFORE THE REAR WALL CONTAINS THE SMALL BUT EYE CATCHING -ADONNA DEL "ELVEDERE ONE OF ONLY A HANDFUL OF WORKS ATTRIBUTED TO *ACOPO DI -INO A PUPIL OF ,IPPO -EMMI
0ORTA 2OMANA
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&ROM 3ANTA -ARIA DEI 3ERVI YOURE JUST M FROM THE 0ORTA 2OMANA THE MASSIVELY BASTIONED SOUTH GATE OF THE CITY )TS OUTER ARCH HAS A FRAGMENTARY FRESCO OF THE #ORONATION OF THE 6IRGIN BEGUN BY 4ADDEO DI "ARTOLO AND COMPLETED BY 3ANO DI 0IETRO )F YOU LEAVE THE CITY HERE AND TURN LEFT ALONG 6IA 'IROLAMO 'IGLI YOU COULD FOLLOW THE WALLS NORTH TO THE 0ORTA 0ISPINI ANOTHER IMPRESSIVE EXAMPLE OF DEFENSIVE ARCHITECTURE AND AGAIN mANKED BY A FRESCO OF THE 6IRGIN THIS TIME A 2ENAISSANCE EFFORT BY 3ODOMA *UST WITHIN THE 0ORTA 2OMANA OPPOSITE THE HUGE EX CONVENT OF 3AN .ICCOLÛ WHICH NOW HOUSES A PSYCHIATRIC HOSPITAL IS THE LITTLE CHURCH OF 3ANTUCCIO WORTH LOOKING INTO FOR ITS SEVENTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES DEPICTING THE LIFE OF 3T 'ALGANO SEE P )N THE ADJACENT SACRISTY AT 6IA 2OMA ARE THE PREMISES OF THE 3OCIETÌ %SECUTORI DI 0IE $ISPOSIZIONI THE 3OCIETY OF "ENEVOLENT 7ORKS FORMERLY THE 3OCIETY OF &LAGELLANTS 4HIS MEDIEVAL ORDER SUPPRESSED IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY AND LATER REFOUNDED ALONG MORE SECULAR LINES MAINTAINS A SMALL COLLECTION OF ART WORKS -ON 7ED &RI AMnNOON 4UES 4HURS nPM OPEN ON REQUEST FREE INCLUDING A TRIPTYCH OF THE #RUCIlXION &LAGEL LATION AND "URIAL OF #HRIST ATTRIBUTED TO $UCCIO AND A SEMICIRCULAR TABLET WITH WONDERFUL 2ENAISSANCE LANDSCAPE OF 3T #ATHERINE OF 3IENA ,EADING THE 0OPE "ACK TO 2OME
4ERZO DI #ITTÌ 6IA DI #ITTÌ ONE OF 3IENAS KEY STREETS CUTS ACROSS THE TOP OF THE #AMPO THROUGH THE CITYS OLDEST QUARTER THE 4ERZO DI #ITTÌ THE AREA AROUND THE CATHEDRAL 4HE STREET AND ITS CONTINUATION 6IA DI 3AN 0IETRO ARE FRONTED BY SOME OF 3IENAS lNEST PRIVATE PALAZZI INCLUDING THE "UONSIGNORI HOME TO THE 0INACOTECA .AZIONALE 3IENAS MAIN PICTURE GALLERY 4HE DISTRICT IS ALSO WORTH EXPLORING FOR ITS OWN SAKE WITH A VARIETY OF OPTIONS TAKING YOU IN LOOPS PAST CHURCHES SUCH AS 3ANT!GOSTINO AND SOME OF THE CITYS TUCKED AWAY CORNERS
0ALAZZO #HIGI 3ARACINI AND 0ALAZZO DELLE 0APESSE 7ALKING TO THE 0INACOTECA YOU PASS THE 0ALAZZO #HIGI 3ARACINI AT 6IA DI #ITTÌ A 'OTHIC BEAUTY WITH ITS CURVED FACADE AND BACK COURTYARD !LTHOUGH THE PALACE IS CLOSED TO THE PUBLIC IT HOUSES THE !CCADEMIA #HIGIANA WWW CHIGIANAIT WHICH SPONSORS MUSIC PROGRAMMES THROUGHOUT THE YEAR AND MAINTAINS A SMALL ART COLLECTION INCLUDING EXCEPTIONAL WORKS BY 3ASSETTA "OT TICELLI AND $ONATELLO )T WAS FROM THIS PALACE THAT THE 3IENESE VICTORY OVER THE &LORENTINES AT -ONTAPERTI WAS ANNOUNCED THE TOWN HERALD HAVING WATCHED THE BATTLE FROM THE TOWER !LMOST OPPOSITE AT 6IA DI #ITTÌ IS A SECOND 0ALAZZO 0ICCOLOMINI THIS ONE BUILT IN BY "ERNARDO 2OSSELLINO AS A RESIDENCE FOR 0IUS ))S SISTER #ATERINA +NOWN AS THE 0ALAZZO DELLE 0APESSE IT NOW HOUSES 3IENAS MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART 4UESn3UN NOONnPM + JOINT TICKETS SEE P WWW
PAPESSEORG )TS FOUR AIRY mOORS HOUSE EXCELLENT TEMPORARY EXHIBITS COVERING ANYTHING FROM ARCHITECTURE TO VIDEO ART DISPLAYED IN ROOMS SOME WITH NINE TEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES THAT STILL CONSERVE MANY OF THEIR ORIGINAL 2ENAISSANCE STRUCTURAL AND DECORATIVE FEATURES
0INACOTECA .AZIONALE
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6IA DI #ITTÌ CONTINUES TO A SMALL PIAZZA FROM WHERE 6IA 3AN 0IETRO LEADS LEFT SOUTH TO THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY 0ALAZZO "UONSIGNORI NOW THE HOME OF THE SUPERB 0INACOTECA .AZIONALE -ON AMnPM 4UESn3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM + )TS COLLECTION IS A ROLL OF HONOUR OF 3IENESE 'OTHIC PAINTING AND IF YOUR INTEREST HAS BEEN SPURRED BY THE WORKS BY -ARTINI IN THE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO OR $UCCIO IN THE CATHEDRAL MUSEUM A VISIT IS THE OBVIOUS NEXT STEP 4HE COLLECTION OFFERS AN UNRIVALLED CHANCE TO ASSESS THE DEVELOPMENT OF ART IN THE CITY FROM THE TWELFTH CENTURY THROUGH TO LATE 2ENAISSANCE -ANNERISM 4HE MAIN ROOMS ARE ARRANGED IN CHRONOLOGICAL ORDER STARTING ON THE SECOND mOOR 2OOM BEGINS WITH THE EARLIEST KNOWN 3IENESE WORK AN ALTAR FRONTAL DATED OF #HRIST &LANKED BY !NGELS WITH SIDE PANELS DEPICTING THE DISCOVERY OF THE 4RUE #ROSS SEE P FOR THIS STORY 4HE lGURES ARE CLEARLY 2OMAN ESQUE THE GOLD BACKGROUND n INTRICATELY PATTERNED n WAS TO BE A STANDARD MOTIF OF 3IENESE ART OVER THE NEXT TWO CENTURIES 4HE lRST IDENTIlED 3IENESE PAINTER 'UIDO DA 3IENA MAKES AN APPEARANCE IN THIS ROOM AND COVERS THE SAME SUBJECT IN ROOM THOUGH THE INmUENCES ON HIS WORK n DATED AROUND n ARE DISTINCTIVELY "YZANTINE RATHER THAN 2OMANESQUE INCORPORATING STUDDED JEWELS AMID THE GOLD )N SOME OF HIS NARRATIVE PANELS n #HRIST %NTERING *ERUSALEM 4HE ,IFE OF 3T 0ETER AND 3T #LARE 2EPELLING A 3ARACEN !TTACK n HIS HAND SEEMS RATHER FREER THOUGH THE COLOURING IS LIMITED TO A FEW DELICATE SHADES $UCCIO DI "UONINSEGNA n THE DOMINANT lGURE IN EARLY 3IENESE ART IS REPRESENTED ALONG WITH HIS SCHOOL IN ROOMS AND "ERNARD "ERENSON CONSID ERED $UCCIO THE LAST GREAT PAINTER OF ANTIQUITY IN CONTRAST TO 'IOTTO THE lRST OF THE MODERNS 4HE PAINTERS ADVANCES IN COMPOSITION ARE BEST ASSESSED IN HIS -AESTÌ IN THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO (ERE $UCCIO SIMPLY SHOWS THAT HE hFULlLLED ALL THAT THE MEDIEVAL MIND DEMANDED OF A PAINTERv IN THE WORDS OF "ERENSON HIS DUAL PURPOSE BEING TO DEMON STRATE #HRISTIANITY TO AN ILLITERATE AUDIENCE AND MAKE AN OFFERING THE PAINTING TO 'OD ! RATHER MORE 'OTHIC AND EXPRESSIVE CHAR ACTER IS SUGGESTED BY 5GOLINO DI .ERIOS #RUCIlXION AND -ADONNA IN ROOM 5 -ADONNA AND #HILD BY !MBROGIO ,ORENZETTI
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3IENESE ART OVER THE NEXT CENTURY HAS ITS DEPARTURES FROM $UCCIO n ,ORENZETTIS MASTERY OF LANDSCAPE AND LIFE IN THE 'OOD AND "AD 'OVERNMENT IN THE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO FOR EXAMPLE n BUT THE PATRONS RESPONSIBLE FOR COMMISSIONING WORKS GENERALLY WANTED MORE OF THE SAME DECORATIVE PAINTINGS WHOSE GOLD BACK GROUNDS MADE THEIR SUBJECTS STAND OUT IN THE GLOOM OF MEDIEVAL CHAPELS !S WELL AS SPECIFYING THE REQUIRED MATERIALS AND COMPOSITION THE 3IENESE PATRONS n BANKERS GUILDS RELIGIOUS ORDERS n WOULD OFTEN NOMINATE A PARTICULAR PAINTING AS THE MODEL FOR THE STYLE THEY WANTED %VEN WITHIN THE CONVENTIONS REQUIRED BY PATRONS HOWEVER THERE WERE PAINTERS WHOSE INVENTION AND lNESSE SET THEM APART /NE SUCH WAS 3IMONE -ARTINI 4HOUGH HIS INNOVATIONS n THE ATTENTION TO FRAMING AND THE INTRO DUCTION OF A POLITICAL DIMENSION n ARE PERHAPS BEST SEEN IN THE 0ALAZZO 0UB BLICO THERE ARE SEVERAL GREAT WORKS ON SHOW HERE MAINLY IN ROOM HOUSING ONE OF HIS MASTERPIECES THE "LESSED !GOSTINO .OVELLO AND &OUR OF HIS -IRACLES 0ERHAPS MORE REWARDING HOWEVER ARE THE WORKS BY THE ,ORENZETTI BROTHERS 0IETRO AND !MBROGIO IN ROOMS AND 0IETROS INCLUDE A MARVELLOUS 2ISEN #HRIST WHICH COULD ALMOST HOLD COMPANY WITH -ASACCIO AND THE #ARMINE !LTARPIECE WHOSE PREDELLA HAS lVE SKILFUL NARRATIVE SCENES OF THE FOUNDING OF THE #ARMELITE ORDER !TTRIBUTED TO !MBROGIO OR MORE LIKELY TO 3ASSETTA ARE TWO TINY PANELS IN ROOM #ITY BY THE 3EA AND #ASTLES BY A ,AKE WHICH THE ART HISTORIAN %NZO #ARLI CLAIMS ARE THE lRST EVER hPURE LANDSCAPESv WITHOUT ANY RELIGIOUS PURPOSE 4HEY ARE THOUGHT TO HAVE BEEN PAINTED ON A DOOR ONE ABOVE THE OTHER -OVING THROUGH THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY IN ROOMS TO YOU COME TO THE MAJOR 3IENESE ARTISTS "ARTOLO DI &REDI n AND HIS PUPIL 4ADDEO DI "ARTOLO n "ARTOLO IS BEST KNOWN FOR THE .EW 4ESTAMENT FRESCOES IN 3AN 'IMIGNANO WHOSE MASTERY OF NARRATIVE IS REmECTED IN HIS !DORATION OF THE -AGI 4ADDEO PAINTER OF THE CHAPEL IN THE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO HAS ARCHAIC ELEMENTS n NOTABLY THE HUGE AREAS OF GOLD AROUND A SKETCH OF LANDSCAPE n BUT MAKES STRIDES IN PORTRAITURE AND RENDERS ONE OF THE lRST PIECES OF DYNAMIC ACTION IN THE MUSEUM IN HIS 3TONING OF 33 #OSMAS AND $AMIAN 4HESE ADVANCES ARE TAKEN A STAGE FURTHER IN 3ASSETTAS 3T !NTHONY "EATEN BY $EVILS NO WHERE 3IENA SEEMS AT LAST TO BE ENTERING THE MAINSTREAM OF %UROPEAN 'OTHIC ART AND TAKING NOTE OF &LORENTINE PERSPECTIVE 4HE INmUENCE OF THE PATRONS HOWEVER IS STILL PREVALENT IN THE MASS OF STEREOTYPED IMAGES n GOLD AGAIN VERY MUCH TO THE FORE n BY 'IOVANNI DI 0AOLO n WHICH lLL MOST OF ROOMS AND AND THE EXQUISITE -ADONNAS BY 3ANO DI 0IETRO n AND -ATTEO DI 'IOVANNI n IN ROOMS TO )T IS ASTON ISHING TO THINK THAT THEIR &LORENTINE CONTEMPORARIES INCLUDED 5CCELLO AND ,EONARDO 3UBSEQUENT ROOMS INCLUDE SOME SUBLIME PAINTINGS BY "ECCAFUMI 3IENAS LEADING -ANNERIST ARTIST AND WORKS BY !NTONIO "AZZI BETTER KNOWN AS 3ODOMA AND "ERNARDINO -EI THE LAST AN INCREASINGLY STUDIED AND ADMIRED SEVENTEENTH CENTURY ARTIST 4HE THIRD mOOR OF THE MUSEUM n NOT ALWAYS OPEN n PRESENTS THE SELF CON TAINED #OLLEZIONE 3PANNOCCHI A MISCELLANY OF )TALIAN 'ERMAN AND &LEM ISH WORKS INCLUDING A $àRER A lNE ,ORENZO ,OTTO .ATIVITY 0ARIS "ORDONES PERFECT 2ENAISSANCE !NNUNCIATION AND 3OFONISBA !NGUISSOLAS "ERNARDO #AMPI 0AINTING 3OFONISBAS 0ORTRAIT n THE ONLY PAINTING IN THE MUSEUM BY A WOMAN ARTIST !NGUISSOLA WHO IS MENTIONED BY 6ASARI AS A CHILD PRODIGY PAINTED AT THE HEIGHT OF -ANNERISM THIS WORK IS A NEAT LITTLE JOKE THE ARTIST EXCELLING IN HER PORTRAIT OF #AMPI BUT DEPICTING HIS PORTRAIT OF HER AS A mAT STEREOTYPED IMAGE
3ANT!GOSTINO AND A LOOP TO THE $UOMO
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\ 4ERZO DI #AMOLLIA
3OUTH OF THE 0INACOTECA IS THE CHURCH OF 3ANT!GOSTINO OPEN SOME YEARS CLOSED OTHERS WHERE n IF YOU ARE LUCKY n YOU CAN ADMIRE A #RUCIlXION BY 0ERUGINO SECOND ALTAR OF THE SOUTH AISLE AN !DORATION OF THE -AGI BY 3ODOMA AND A LUNETTE FRESCO OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 3AINTS BY !MBROGIO ,ORENZETTI BOTH IN THE #APPELLA 0ICCOLOMINI AND TWO MONOCHROME LUNETTE MEDALLIONS BY ,UCA 3IGNORELLI #APPELLA "ICHI SOUTH TRANSEPT 4HE CHURCH PIAZZA IS QUITE A PLEASANT SPACE WITH A KIDS PLAYGROUND AND USUALLY A FEW FOOT BALL GAMES IN PROGRESS !LONG WITH THE #AMPO THIS SQUARE WAS THE SITE OF VIOLENT MEDIEVAL FOOTBALL MATCHES n BALLONE AS THEY CALLED IT n WHICH WERE EVENTUALLY DISPLACED IN THE FESTIVAL CALENDAR BY THE 0ALIO !T NO IN THE CHURCH PIAZZA IS THE !CCADEMIA DEI &ISIOCRITICI -ONn7ED &RI AMnPM nPM 4HURS AMnPM WWWACCADEMIAlSIOCRITICI IT FREE HOUSING MUSEUMS OF ZOOLOGY GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY n ALL A BIT PEDESTRIAN THOUGH WITH A FEW ODDITIES n LIKE TERRACOTTA MODELS OF FUNGHI n TO ENTERTAIN BOTANISTS #ONTINUING THE THEME YOU COULD MAKE YOUR WAY ACROSS THE PIAZZA TO THE /RTO "OTANICO -ONn&RI AMn nPM 3AT AMnNOON FREE 6IA 0IER !NDREA -ATTIOLI WHOSE HERBARIUM IS STOCKED WITH EVERY 4USCAN SPECIES !N INTERESTING WALK FROM 3ANT!GOSTINO IS TO LOOP ALONG THE 6IA DELLA #ER CHIA A ROUTE THAT TAKES YOU PAST SOME GOOD NEIGHBOURHOOD RESTAURANTS SEE P TO THE #ARMELITE CONVENT AND CHURCH OF 3AN .ICCOLÛ AL #ARMINE OR 3ANTA -ARIA DEL #ARMINE IN A PREDOMINANTLY STUDENT POPULATED SECTION OF THE TOWN 4HE CHURCH A 2ENAISSANCE REBUILDING CONTAINS A SENSATIONAL 3T -ICHAEL BY $OMENICO "ECCAFUMI MIDWAY DOWN THE SOUTH WALL PAINTED FOLLOWING THE MONKS REJECTION OF HIS MORE INTENSE -ANNERIST VERSION OF THE SUBJECT IN THE 0INACOTECA DEEMED TO CONTAIN TOO MANY NUDES FOR COMFORT !N HERMAPHRO DITE 3T -ICHAEL IS SHOWN AT THE CENTRE OF THE CROWDED PAINTING LOOKED DOWN ON BY 'OD WHO HAS ORDERED THE SAINT TO EARTH TO DISPATCH THE $EVIL THE $EVILS EXTRAORDINARY FACE CAN BE SEEN AT THE BASE OF THE PICTURE 4O THE PAINTINGS LEFT IS A FRAGMENT OF AN !NNUNCIATION ATTRIBUTED TO !MBROGIO ,ORENZETTI )F YOU FOLLOW THE 6IA DEL &OSSO DI 3AN !NSANO NORTH OF THE #ARMINE SQUARE YOU lND YOURSELF ON A COUNTRY LANE ABOVE TERRACED VINEYARDS AND ALLOT MENTS BEFORE EMERGING AT THE 3ELVA WOOD CONTRADAS SQUARE AND MUSEUM WWWCONTRADADELLASELVAIT AND CHURCH OF 3AN 3EBASTIANO #LIMB UP THE STEPPED 6ICOLO DI 3AN 'IROLAMO FROM HERE AND YOU COME OUT AT THE $UOMO !LTERNATIVELY FROM 3ANT!GOSTINO YOU COULD CUT BACK TO THE #AMPO ALONG 6IA 'IOVANNI $UPRÏ WHERE THE /NDA WAVE OR DOLPHIN CONTRADA HAS ITS BASE AT NO TO VISIT THE MUSEUM YOU NEED TO MAKE AN APPOINTMENT AT LEAST A WEEK IN ADVANCE WWWCONTRADACAPITANADELLONDAIT 4HE /NDA CHURCH IS 3AN 'IUSEPPE AT THE 3ANT!GOSTINO END OF THE STREET
4ERZO DI #AMOLLIA
4HE NORTHERN 4ERZO DI #AMOLLIA IS mANKED TO WEST AND EAST BY THE CHURCHES OF THE MOST IMPORTANT MEDIEVAL ORDERS THE $OMINICANS AND &RANCISCANS VAST BRICK PILES WHICH REAR ABOVE THE CITYS OUTER RIDGES %ACH HAS AN IMPORTANT ASSOCIATION WITH 3IENAS MAJOR SAINTS THE FORMER WITH #ATHERINE THE LATTER WITH "ERNARDINO "ERNARDINOS PILGRIM TRAIL ALSO LEADS OUT OF THE CITY TO THE NORTH TO THE /SSERVANZA MONASTERY HIS PRINCIPAL RETREAT
4HE CENTRAL PART OF THE #AMOLLIA TAKES IN THE MAIN THOROUGHFARE OF "ANCHI DI 3OPRA THE BASE OF THE -ONTE DEI 0ASCHI n LONG THE CITYS lNANCIAL POWER .ORTH FROM HERE YOU MOVE INTO A QUIET RESIDENTIAL QUARTER ALL THE MORE PLEASANT FOR ITS LACK OF SPECIlC SIGHTS OR VISITORS 4O THE WEST INTERESTINGLY DETACHED FROM THE OLD CITY IS THE &ORTEZZA DI 3ANTA "ARBARA
3AN $OMENICO
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4HE $OMINICANS FOUNDED THEIR MONASTERY IN THE CITY IN )TS CHURCH 3AN $OMENICO DAILY !PRILn/CT AMnPM nPM .OVn-ARCH AMnPM nPM BEGUN IN IS A VAST LARGELY 'OTHIC BUILDING TYPICAL OF THE AUSTERITY OF THIS MILITARISTIC ORDER 4HE #ATHERINE ASSOCIATION IS IMMEDIATELY ASSERTED /N THE RIGHT OF THE ENTRANCE IS A KIND OF RAISED CHAPEL THE #APPELLA DELLE 6OLTE WITH A CONTEMPORARY PORTRAIT OF HER BY HER FRIEND AND DISCIPLE !NDREA 6ANNI WHO ACCORDING TO TRADITION CAPTURED HER LIKENESS FROM LIFE DURING ONE OF HER ECSTASIES IN BELOW ARE STEPS AND A NICHE WHERE SHE RECEIVED THE STIGMATA TOOK ON THE $OMINICAN HABIT AND PERFORMED SEVERAL OF HER MIRACLES 4HE SAINTS OWN CHAPEL THE #APPELLA DI 3ANTA #ATERINA ERECTED IN IS LOCATED MIDWAY DOWN THE RIGHT SOUTH SIDE OF THE CHURCH )TS ENTRANCE ARCH HAS IMAGES OF SAINTS ,UKE AND *EROME BY 3ODOMA WHILE THE MARBLE TABERNACLE ON THE HIGH ALTAR ENCLOSES A RELIQUARY CONTAINING #ATHERINES HEAD OTHER PARTS OF HER BODY LIE DOTTED ACROSS )TALY 4HE CHURCHS HIGHLIGHTS HOWEVER n FRESCOES BY 3ODOMA n OCCUPY THE WALLS TO THE LEFT AND RIGHT OF THE ALTAR AND RESPECTIVELY DEPICT HER SWOONING AND IN ECSTASY *UST TO THE LEFT OF THE CHAPEL ABOVE THE STEPS TO THE CRYPT IS A DETACHED FRESCO OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD *OHN THE "APTIST AND +NIGHT BY 0IETRO ,ORENZETTI /THER NOTABLE PAINTINGS ARE FOUND IN SOME OF THE OTHER CHAPELS ESPECIALLY THE lRST TO THE RIGHT OF THE HIGH ALTAR WHICH CONTAINS A -ATTEO DI 'IOVANNI TRIPTYCH OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 33 *EROME AND *OHN THE "APTIST AND FRAG MENTS OF DETACHED FRESCOES BY ,IPPO -EMMI AND !NDREA 6ANNI 4HE HIGH ALTAR BOASTS A lNE MARBLE TABERNACLE AND TWO SCULPTED ANGELS BY THE SCULPTOR AND ARCHITECT "ENEDETTO DA -AIANO BEST KNOWN FOR THE 0ALAZZO 3TROZZI IN &LOR ENCE AND SEVERAL lNE WORKS IN 3AN 'IMIGNANO SEE P 4HE SECOND CHAPEL TO THE LEFT OF THE HIGH ALTAR HOUSES 3T "ARBARA !NGELS AND 33 #ATHERINE AND -ARY -AGDALENE SURMOUNTED BY AN %PIPHANY CONSIDERED THE MASTERPIECE OF -ATTEO DI 'IOVANNI THOUGH ITS EFFECT IS SOMEWHAT UNDERMINED BY THE ODD EIGHTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES AROUND IT 4HE MORE APPEALING -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 3AINTS OPPOSITE IS BY THE &LORENTINE INmUENCED "ENVENUTO DI 'IOVANNI
3T #ATHERINE OF 3IENA "ORN #ATERINA "ENINCASA THE DAUGHTER OF A DYER ON -ARCH n !NNUNCIATION $AY n 3T #ATHERINE HAD HER lRST VISIONS AGED AND TOOK THE VEIL AT AGE IN SOME VERSIONS AGAINST STRONG FAMILY OPPOSITION 3HE SPENT THREE YEARS IN SILENT CONTEM PLATION BEFORE EXPERIENCING A MYSTICAL h.IGHT /BSCUREv 4HEREAFTER SHE WENT OUT INTO THE TURBULENT POST "LACK $EATH CITY DEVOTING HERSELF TO THE POOR AND SICK AND lNALLY TURNING HER HAND TO POLITICS 3HE PREVENTED 3IENA AND 0ISA JOINING &LORENCE IN RISING AGAINST 0OPE 5RBAN 6 THEN ABSENT IN !VIGNON AND PROCEEDED TO BRING HIM BACK TO 2OME )T WAS A FULlLMENT OF THE ULTIMATE $OMINICAN IDEAL n A UNION OF THE PRACTI CAL AND MYSTICAL LIFE #ATHERINE RETURNED TO 3IENA TO A LIFE OF CONTEMPLATION VISIONS AND STIGMATA RETAINING A POLITICAL ROLE IN HER ATTEMPTS TO RECONCILE THE LATER SCHISM BETWEEN THE POPES AND ANTI POPES 3HE DIED IN 2OME IN AND WAS CANONIZED BY 0IUS )) AS DEPICTED IN THE CATHEDRAL IN 3HE JOINED 3T &RANCIS AS A PATRON SAINT OF )TALY IN *OHN 0AUL )) DECLARED HER CO PATRON OF %UROPE IN
#ASA DI 3ANTA #ATERINA
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3T #ATHERINES FAMILY HOME WHERE SHE LIVED AS A $OMINICAN TERTIARY n OF THE ORDER BUT NOT RESIDENT n IS JUST SOUTH OF 3AN $OMENICO DOWN THE HILL ON 6IA 3ANTA #ATERINA +NOWN AS THE #ASA E 3ANTUARIO DI 3ANTA #ATERINA DAILY AMnPM nPM FREE THE BUILDING HAS BEEN MUCH ADAPTED WITH A 2ENAISSANCE LOGGIA AND A SERIES OF ORATORIES n ONE ON THE SITE OF HER CELL 4HE PAINTINGS HERE ARE MOSTLY UNEXCEPTIONAL "AROQUE CANVASES BUT IT IS THE LIFE THAT IS IMPORTANT AN EXTRAORDINARY CAREER THAT MADE HER )TALYS PATRON SAINT AND AMONG THE EARLIEST WOMEN TO BE CANONIZED SEE BOX OVERLEAF .EAR THE 3ANTUARIO ARE THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA #ATERINA HOME OF THE /CA GOOSE CONTRADA WWWCONTRADADELLOCAIT n KNOWN AS GLI INFAMI hTHE INFAMOUS ONESv AFTER THEIR RECORD NUMBER OF 0ALIO VICTORIES n AND DOWN IN THE VALLEY THE BEST PRESERVED OF 3IENAS SEVERAL FOUNTAINS THE &ONTE "RANDA !IDED BY THE FOUNTAINS RELIABLE WATER SUPPLY THIS PART OF THE CITY WAS AN AREA FOR TANNERIES INTO THE TWENTIETH CENTURY 4HE FOUNTAIN ALSO FEATURES IN 3IENESE FOLKLORE AS THE HAUNT OF WEREWOLVES WHO WOULD THROW THEMSELVES INTO THE WATER AT DAWN TO RETURN TO HUMAN FORM
-ONTE DEI 0ASCHI DI 3IENA AND NORTH "ETWEEN THE TWO MONASTIC CHURCHES LIES THE HEART OF BUSINESS 3IENA THE 0IAZZA 3ALIMBENI WHOSE THREE INTERLOCKING PALAZZI HAVE FORMED SINCE THE lFTEENTH CEN TURY THE HEAD OFlCE OF THE -ONTE DEI 0ASCHI DI 3IENA "ANKING WAS AT THE HEART OF MEDIEVAL 3IENESE WEALTH THE TOWN CAPITALIZING ON ITS POSITION ON THE 6IA &RANCI GENA THE h&RENCH ROADv BETWEEN 2OME AND NORTHWEST %UROPE AND THE MAIN ROAD BETWEEN 2OME AND &LORENCE AND "OLOGNA 3IENESE BANKING FAMILIES GO BACK TO THE TWELFTH CENTURY AND BY THE END OF THE THIRTEENTH THEY WERE TRADING WIDELY IN &RANCE 'ERMANY &LANDERS %NGLAND AND ALONG THE $ANUBE WHERE THEY MAINTAINED NETWORKS OF CORRESPONDING DEALERS !CTIVITY DECLINED AFTER THE "LACK $EATH BUT IN THE lFTEENTH CENTURY THE 2EPUBLIC SET UP THE -ONTE DEI 0ASCHI DI 3IENA AS A LEND ING AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTION TO COMBAT THE ABUSES OF USURY )T CONSOLIDATED ITS ROLE UNDER -EDICI RULE AND SLOWLY MOVED INTO MORE STRICTLY BANKING ACTIVITIES )N THE TWENTIETH CENTURY IT MERGED WITH OTHER 4USCAN AND 5MBRIAN BANKS TO BECOME ONE OF THE KEY lNANCIAL INSTITUTIONS IN )TALY 4HERE IS SOME HISTORICAL INTEREST IN THE EXTERIORS OF THE BANKS PALAZZI THE 3PANNOCCHI ON THE RIGHT WAS THE lRST GREAT 2ENAISSANCE PALACE BUILT IN 3IENA AND THE PROTOTYPE FOR THE 0ALAZZO 3TROZZI IN &LORENCE WHILE THE 3ALIM BENI IN THE CENTRE WAS A LAST mOURISH OF 'OTHICISM (OWEVER TO APPRECIATE THE ROLE OF THE -ONTE IN 3IENA YOU NEED TO TOUR THE BUILDING )N 0IERLUIGI 3PADOLINO UNDERTOOK A RADICAL RESTRUCTURING ENCASING THE BUILDINGS INTE RIOR MEDIEVAL AND 2ENAISSANCE FEATURES WITHIN AN ULTRA MODERN AND HI TECH FRAMEWORK 4HIS IS A SIGHT IN ITSELF BUT IT ALSO PROVIDES A WONDERFUL SHOWCASE FOR THE BANKS ART COLLECTION n THE BULK OF WHICH IS HOUSED IN THE DECONSECRATED CHURCH OF 3AN $ONATO LINKED BY AN UNDERGROUND PASSAGE WITH THE MAIN PALAZZI 4HE PAINTINGS HERE INCLUDE SOME OF THE lNEST 'OTHIC WORKS IN 3IENA AMONG THEM AN EXQUISITELY COLOURED -ADONNA BY 'IOVANNI DI 0AOLO A $EPOSITION BY 3ANO DI 0IETRO AND A #RUCIlXION BY 0IETRO ,ORENZETTI !LSO DISPLAYED ARE A SERIES OF PAINTINGS DEPICTING THE 0ALIO AND ITS SIXTEENTH CENTURY BULLlGHTING PRECURSOR IN THE #AMPO 4HE BANK SOMETIMES EXHIBITS ITS ART COLLECTIONS DURING BANKING HOURS AND OCCA SIONALLY BY APPOINTMENT ONLY DETAILS FROM THE TOURIST OFlCE 7ITH ANY LUCK YOU WILL BE SHOWN THE ARCHIVES AND MAJOR HALLS OF THE BANK AS WELL AS THE PAINT INGS AND THE VISIT ENDS WITH A TRIP UP TO THE TOWER FOR A VIEW OVER THE #AMPO
4O 0ORTA #AMOLLIA AND THE &ORTEZZA
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(EADING NORTH FROM THE 0IAZZA 3ALIMBENI "ANCHI DI 3OPRA CHANGES NAME TO 6IA -ONTANINI AND THEN 6IA DI #AMOLLIA WHICH RUN THROUGH THE LESS MONU MENTAL PARTS OF THE 4ERZO DI #AMOLLIA GOOD FOR REGULAR SHOPPING AND LARGELY UNTOURISTED BARS AND RESTAURANTS 4WO CHURCHES ARE WORTH A BRIEF LOOK ON THIS STREET THOUGH BOTH ARE ONLY RARELY OPEN 3ANTA -ARIA DELLE .EVI CONTAINS A FAMOUS ALTARPIECE n /UR ,ADY OF THE 3NOWS n BY -ATTEO DI 'IOVANNI WHILE 3AN "ARTOLOMEO FRONTS ONE OF THE NICEST CONTRADA SQUARES IN THE CITY HOME OF THE )STRICI PORCUPINE THE CON TRADA HAS ITS MUSEUM AT 6IA #AMOLLIA VISITS TO BE BOOKED A WEEK IN ADVANCE WWWISTRICEORG !T THE END OF THE STREET IS THE 2ENAISSANCE 0ORTA #AMOLLIA INSCRIBED ON ITS OUTER ARCH h3IENA OPENS HER HEART TO YOU WIDER THAN THIS GATEv )T WAS HERE THAT A VASTLY SUPERIOR &LORENTINE FORCE WAS PUT TO mIGHT IN FOLLOWING THE TRADITIONAL 3IENESE APPEAL TO THE 6IRGIN ! SHORT DISTANCE EAST OF "ANCHI DI 3OPRA n REACHED BY A CIRCUITOUS NETWORK OF ALLEYS n IS ANOTHER OF THE CITYS FOUNTAINS THE &ONTE .UOVA ! FURTHER HIGHLY PICTURESQUE FOUNTAIN THE &ONTE /VILE IS TO BE SEEN OUTSIDE THE 0ORTA /VILE A HUNDRED METRES OR SO BEYOND "OTH WERE BUILT AT THE END OF THE TWELFTH CENTURY .EAR &ONTE .UOVA IN 6IA 6ALLEROZZI IS THE CHURCH OF 3AN 2OCCO HOME OF THE ,UPA SHE WOLF CONTRADA ITS MUSEUM IS AT NOS n VISITS BY APPOINTMENT !WAY TO THE WEST BEHIND THE CHURCH OF 3ANTO 3TEFANO THE GARDENS OF ,A ,IZZA n TAKEN OVER ON 7EDNESDAYS BY THE TOWNS LARGE MARKET n LEAD UP TO THE WALLS OF THE &ORTE DI 3ANTA "ARBARA FREE ACCESS 4HE FORTRESS WAS BUILT INITIALLY BY #HARLES 6 AFTER THE SIEGE OF n BUT SUBSEQUENTLY TORN DOWN BY THE PEOPLE AND HAD TO BE REBUILT BY #OSIMO ) WHO THEN MOVED HIS TROOPS INTO THE GARRISON )TS -EDICEAN WALLS RESEMBLE THE WALLS OF ,UCCA DESIGNED BY THE SAME ARCHITECT /CCASIONAL SUMMER CONCERTS ARE HELD WITHIN THE FORT WHICH IS ALSO A PERMANENT HOME TO THE WINE COLLECTIONS AND BAR OF THE %NOTECA )TALIANA SEE P
3AN &RANCESCO 3T "ERNARDINO BORN IN THE YEAR OF #ATHERINES DEATH BEGAN HIS PREACHING LIFE AT THE CHILL MONASTIC CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCESCO ACROSS THE CITY TO THE EAST ! HUGE HALL LIKE STRUCTURE LIKE THAT OF THE $OMINICANS IT HAS BEEN HEAVILY RESTORED AFTER DAMAGE BY lRE IN AND SUBSEQUENT USE AS A BARRACKS )TS REMAINING ART WORKS INCLUDE FRAGMENTARY FRESCOES BY 0IETRO AND !MBROGIO ,ORENZETTI A #RU CIlXION BY 0IETRO IN THE lRST CHAPEL TO THE LEFT OF THE HIGH ALTAR AND TWO COLLABORATIVE FRESCOES IN THE THIRD CHAPEL TO THE LEFT OF THE HIGH ALTAR THE LATTER DEPICTING 3T ,OUIS OF 4OULOUSE BECOMING A &RANCISCAN AND THE GRAPHIC -ARTYRDOM OF 3IX &RANCISCANS AT #EUTA IN -OROCCO 4HERE IS ALSO A GLITTERING POLYPTYCH BY ,IPPO 6ANNI OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH &OUR 3AINTS IN THE SACRISTY ENTERED FROM THE RIGHT OF THE SOUTH TRANSEPT )TS ALSO WORTH HUNTING DOWN THE DETACHED FRESCO RIGHT OF THE ENTRANCE DOOR ITS CHOIR OF ANGELS PART OF A #ORONATION OF THE 6IRGIN BY 3ASSETTA THAT ONCE DECORATED THE CITYS ORIGINAL 0ORTA 2OMANA )T WAS COMPLETED BY 3ANO DI 0IETRO A PUPIL OF 3ASSETTA AFTER THE MASTER CON TRACTED A FATAL CHILL WHILE WORKING OUTDOORS ON THE FRESCO )F YOU WALK TO THE END OF THE RIGHT SOUTH AISLE YOULL lND THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY 4OMBA DEI 4OLOMEI THE BEST OF THE CHURCHS MANY FUNERARY MONU MENTS )T HOUSES VARIOUS SCIONS OF THE 4OLOMEI ONE OF 3IENAS GRANDEST MEDIEVAL FAMILIES 4HE CLAN PROVIDED NUMEROUS OF THE CITYS BANKERS AS WELL AS SOME OF ITS LEADING CHURCHMEN AMONG THEM "ERNARDO 4OLOMEI FOUNDER OF THE ABBEY
AT -ONTE /LIVETO -AGGIORE SEE P !LSO BURIED HERE IS 0IA DE 4OLOMEI lRST WIFE OF "ALDO 4OLOMEI WHO CAME TO LIVE IN 3IENA AFTER HIS MARRIAGE TO HIS SECOND WIFE 0IA DIED CONSUMED WITH JEALOUSY IN A CASTLE IN THE -AREMMA PROMPTING $ANTES FAMOUS REFERENCE TO HER IN THE 0URGATORIO 3IENA ME FÏ DISFECEMI -AREMMA h3IENA MADE ME THE -AREMMA UNMADE MEv /RATORIO DI 3AN "ERNARDINO AND -USEO $IOCESANO
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)N THE PIAZZA TO THE RIGHT OF 3AN &RANCESCO AS YOU FACE THE CHURCH ADJOINING THE CLOISTERS IS THE /RATORIO DI 3AN "ERNARDINO MID -ARCH TO /CT -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM + JOINT TICKETS SEE P 4HE BEST ART WORKS HERE ARE IN THE BEAUTIFULLY WOOD PANELLED UPPER CHAPEL FOURTEEN LARGE FRESCOES BY 3ODOMA "ECCAFUMI AND 'IROLAMO DEL 0ACCHIA ON THE ,IFE OF THE 6IRGIN PAINT ED BETWEEN AND WHEN THE FORMER PAIR WERE 3IENAS LEADING PAINTERS )N THE LOWER CHAPEL ARE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY SCENES OF THE SAINTS LIFE WHICH WAS TAKEN UP BY INCESSANT TRAVEL THROUGHOUT )TALY PREACHING AGAINST USURY DENOUNC ING THE POLITICAL STRIFE BETWEEN THE )TALIAN CITY STATES AND URGING HIS AUDIENCE TO LOOK FOR INSPIRATION TO THE MONOGRAM OF #HRIST 3ERMONS IN THE #AMPO IT IS SAID FREQUENTLY WENT ON FOR THE BEST PART OF A DAY "ERNADINOS ACTUAL POLITI CAL INmUENCE WAS FAIRLY MARGINAL BUT HE WAS CANONIZED WITHIN SIX YEARS OF HIS DEATH IN AND REMAINS ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS OF ALL )TALIAN PREACHERS (IS DICTUM ON RHETORIC n hMAKE IT CLEAR SHORT AND TO THE POINTv n WAS REWARDED IN THE S WITH HIS ADOPTION AS THE PATRON SAINT OF ADVERTISING !TTACHED TO THE /RATORIO IS THE -USEO $IOCESANO SAME HOURS AND TICKETS WHICH CONTAINS AN ARRAY OF DEVOTIONAL ART FROM THE THIRTEENTH TO THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY THE PIECES ARE BEAUTIFULLY DISPLAYED BUT AS A COLLECTION IT RANKS WELL BELOW THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO
,/SSERVANZA )F YOUR INTEREST IN "ERNARDINO EXTENDS TO A SHORT PILGRIMAGE TAKE BUS FROM 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI TO -ADONNINA 2OSSA nMIN FROM WHERE ITS A SHORT WALK UPHILL TO THE MONASTERY OF ,/SSERVANZA DAILY AMnPM nPM 4HIS WAS FOUNDED BY "ERNARDINO IN IN AN ATTEMPT TO RESTORE THE ORIGINAL &RANCISCAN RULE BY THEN CORRUPTED IN THE CITIES -UCH REBUILT SINCE THE MONASTERY HAS A SMALL MUSEUM AND A LARGELY 2ENAISSANCE CHURCH WHOSE FEATURES INCLUDE AN !NDREA DELLA 2OBBIA !NNUNCIATION AND A TRIPTYCH BY 3ANO DI 0IETRO
%ATING AND DRINKING
3IENA FEELS DISTINCTLY PROVINCIAL AFTER &LORENCE 4HE MAIN ACTION OF AN EVENING IS THE PASSEGGIATA FROM 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI ALONG "ANCHI DI 3OPRA TO THE #AMPO n AND THERES NOT MUCH IN THE WAY OF NIGHTLIFE TO FOLLOW &OR MOST VISITORS THOUGH AN EVENING IN ONE OF THE CITYS RESTAURANTS PROVIDES DIVERSION ENOUGH WHILE THE PRESENCE OF THE UNIVERSITY ENSURES A BIT OF LIFE IN THE BARS AS WELL AS A CLUSTER OF CHEAPER TRATTORIE ALONGSIDE THE RESTAURANTS
4HE 3IENA 0ALIO h4HE 0ALIO HELPS 3IENA TO SURVIVE IN ITS OWN MIND )T IS A METAPHOR FOR THE CONTINUITY OF THE LIFE OF THE PEOPLEv 2OBERTO "ARZANTI FORMER 3IENA -%0 AND MAYOR 4HE 3IENA 0ALIO IS THE MOST EXCITING AND SPECTACULAR FESTIVAL EVENT IN )TALY A TWICE YEARLY BAREBACK HORSE RACE AROUND THE #AMPO SUPPORTED BY DAYS OF PREPARATION PAGEANTRY AND INTRIGUE )T HAS BEEN HELD SINCE AT LEAST THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY IN HONOUR n LIKE ALMOST EVERYTHING IN 3IENA n OF THE 6IRGIN AND IT REMAINS A LIVING TRADITION FELT AND PERFORMED WITH AN INTENSITY THAT COMES AS A SHOCK IN THESE DAYS OF COSILY PRESERVED FOLKLORE &OR DAYS AROUND THE FESTIVALS THE AIR OF RIVALRY IS PALPABLE QUITE OFTEN BREAKING INTO VIOLENCE AMID THE BRAGGING CELEBRATION OF VICTORY BY ONE OR OTHER OF THE CONTRADE %XCEPT AT TIMES OF WAR THE 0ALIO HAS VIRTUALLY ALWAYS TAKEN PLACE )N FOR EXAMPLE WHEN THE CITY WAS IN CHAOS AFTER AN EARTHQUAKE THE *ULY 0ALIO WAS CANCELLED BUT THE !UGUST RACE TOOK PLACE 4HE FOLLOWING YEAR HOWEVER THE 0ALIO WAS AGAIN CANCELLED OWING TO POLITICAL UNREST 3IENESE COUNTER REVOLUTIONARIES TOOK THE OPPORTUNITY TO RISE AGAINST THE &RENCH HELD FORTRESS AND SACKED THE GHETTO AREA OF THE CITY )N WHEN HALF OF )TALY WAS IN THE THROES OF STRIKES AND RIOTING 3IENAS FACTIONS OF THE LEFT AND RIGHT AGREED TO DEFER SUCH POLITICS UNTIL AFTER THE 0ALIO
4HE DRAWING OF LOTS %VEN BEFORE THE RACE FORTUNE PLAYS THE PRE EMINENT PART SINCE THERES ONLY ROOM FOR TEN RIDERS EACH YEAR THE SEVENTEEN CONTRADE HAVE TO DRAW LOTS TO TAKE PART 4HE PARTICIPANTS ALSO DRAW LOTS BOTH FOR THE HORSES AND FOR STARTING POSITIONS IN THE RACE ITSELF 4HE JOCKEYS ARE PROFESSIONAL OUTSIDERS TRADITIONALLY THE BUTTERI OR COWBOYS OF THE -AREMMA SEE P EMPLOYED ACCORDING TO AN UNRELIABLE AND SHIFTING COMBINATION OF LOYALTIES REINFORCED BY LARGE CASH PAYMENTS AND BONUSES n AND SOMETIMES THE THREAT OF VIOLENCE IF THEY ARE TREACHEROUS $URING THE RUN UP TO THE RACES THEY LIVE UNDER THE SUSPICIONS OF THEIR OWN CONTRADA AND IN FEAR OF THE THREATS OF
4HE BUILD UP /RIGINALLY THE 0ALIO FOLLOWED A CIRCUIT THROUGH THE TOWN BUT SINCE THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY IT HAS CONSISTED OF THREE LAPS OF THE #AMPO AROUND A TRACK COVERED WITH SAND AND PADDED WITH MATTRESSES IN AN ATTEMPT TO MINIMIZE INJURY TO HORSES AND RIDERS $ESPITE ALL PROBABILITIES NO JOCKEY HAS EVER BEEN KILLED 4HERE ARE TWO ANNUAL 0ALIOS HELD ON *ULY FORMERLY THE &EAST OF THE 6ISITATION AND !UGUST THE DAY AFTER THE &EAST OF THE !SSUMPTION EACH OF WHICH IS PRECEDED BY A FASCINATING SEQUENCE OF EVENTS *UNE !UGUST THE YEARS HORSES ARE PRESENTED IN THE MORNING AT THE TOWN HALL AND DRAWN BY LOT !T PM THE lRST TRIAL RACE IS HELD IN THE #AMPO *UNE !UGUST FURTHER TRIAL RACES AT AM AND PM 4HE EVENING RACE IS USUALLY FOLLOWED BY A CONCERT IN THE #AMPO *ULY !UGUST TWO MORE TRIAL RACES AT AM AND PM FOLLOWED BY A STREET BANQUET AND LATE NIGHT REVELRY IN EACH OF THE CONTRADE 2ESTAURANTS ALSO MOVE THEIR TABLES OUTSIDE FOR THESE 0ALIO NIGHTS *ULY !UGUST THE DAY OF THE 0ALIO BEGINS WITH A lNAL TRIAL RACE AT AM )N THE EARLY AFTERNOON EACH OF THE TEN CHOSEN CONTRADE TAKES ITS HORSE TO BE BLESSED IN ITS CHURCH h'O LITTLE HORSE AND RETURN A WINNERv ARE THE PRIESTS WORDS )TS WORTH TRYING TO SEE ONE OF THESE HORSE BLESSINGS WHICH ARE OFTEN PRECEDED BY AN EXTRAORDINARY STRUGGLE TO GET THE ANIMAL UP OR DOWN THE ENTRANCE STEPS )TS TAKEN AS A GOOD OMEN IF THE HORSE DEFECATES IN CHURCH !T AROUND PM THE TOWN HALL BELL BEGINS TO RING AND THE CORTEO STORICO A PAGEANT OF HORSES RIDERS AND MEDIEVAL COSTUMED OFlCIALS PROCESSES THROUGH THE CITY TO THE #AMPO 4HE CORTEO INCLUDES COMPARSE n SYMBOLIC GROUPS OF EQUERRIES ENSIGNS PAGES AND DRUMMERS n FROM EACH OF THE CONTRADE WHO PERFORM VARIOUS SBANDIERATA mAG TWIRLING AND ATHLETIC FEATS IN THE SQUARE 4HEY ARE PRECEDED BY OFlCIALS OF THE COMUNE OF 3IENA AND REPRESENTATIVES FROM ALL THE ANCIENT TOWNS AND VILLAGES OF THE 3IENESE 2EPUBLIC LED BY THE STANDARD BEARER OF -ONTALCINO WHICH OFFERED REFUGE TO THE LAST REPUBLICANS
RIVAL CONTRADE 4HEY MAY BE BRIBED TO THROW THE RACE OR TO WHIP A RIVAL OR HIS HORSE CONTRADE HAVE BEEN KNOWN TO DRUG HORSES AND EVEN TO MOUNT AN AMBUSH ON A JOCKEY MAKING HIS WAY TO THE RACE 4HE RESULT OF ALL THIS IS THAT IN ANY ONE YEAR PERHAPS THREE OR FOUR CONTRADE GO TO THE START LINE WITH ANY CHANCE OF VICTORY FOR THOSE CONTRADE DISADVANTAGED BY POOR HORSES OR JOCKEYS AND THE SEVEN CONTRADE WHO ARENT EVEN TAKING PART THE RACE BECOMES A VEHICLE FOR SCHEMES PLOTS AND GENERAL MAYHEM %ACH CONTRADA HAS ITS TRADITIONAL RIVAL AND ENSURING THAT ONES RIVAL LOSES IS AS IMPORTANT AS WINNING FOR ONESELF 4HE ONLY RULE OF THE RACE IS THAT THE JOCKEYS CANNOT INTERFERE WITH THE OTHERS REINS EVERYTHING ELSE IS ACCEPTED AND PRACTISED !ND ITS THE HORSE THAT WINS n IT DOESNT MATTER IF THE JOCKEY HAS BEEN THROWN EN ROUTE TO VICTORY
4HE RACE 4HE RACE ITSELF BEGINS ON *ULY AT PM ON !UGUST AT PM AND LASTS FOR LITTLE MORE THAN NINETY SECONDS 4HERES NO 0! SYSTEM TO TELL YOU WHATS GOING ON !T THE START IN THE NORTHWEST CORNER OF THE #AMPO ALL THE HORSES EXCEPT ONE ARE PENNED BETWEEN TWO ROPES THE FREE ONE CHARGES THE GROUP FROM BEHIND WHEN HIS RIVALS LEAST EXPECT IT AND THE RACE IS ON )TS A HECTIC VIOLENT AND BIZARRE SPECTACLE AND THE JOCKEYS DONT EVEN STOP AT THE l NISH LINE BUT GALLOP AT TOP SPEED OUT OF THE #AMPO FOLLOWED BY A FRENZIED MASS OF SUPPORTERS ,OSERS CAN BE IN DANGER OF ASSAULT ESPECIALLY IF THERE ARE RUMOURS ABOUT THE RACE BEING l XED 4HE PALIO n A SILK BANNER n IS SUBSEQUENTLY PRESENTED TO THE WINNING CONTRADA WHO THEN MAKE THEIR WAY TO THE CHURCH OF 0ROVENANZO IN *ULY OR THE $UOMO IN !UGUST TO GIVE THANKS 4HE YOUNGER CONTRADA MEMBERS SPEND THE REST OF THE NIGHT AND MUCH OF THE SUBSEQUENT WEEK SWAGGERING AROUND THE TOWN CELEBRATING THEIR VICTORY EVEN HANDING OUT CELEBRATORY SONNETS )N THE EVENING ALL MEMBERS OF THE CONTRADA HOLD A JUBILANT STREET BANQUET 'ALLOPINGªTOWARDSªTHEªlªNISH
0RIME VIEWING POINT OVER THE #AMPO
)NEVITABLY HOTEL ROOMS ARE EXTREMELY DIFl CULT TO l ND AT 0ALIO TIME AND IF YOU HAVENT BOOKED EITHER RECKON ON STAYING UP ALL NIGHT OR TRAVELLING IN FROM A NEIGHBOURING TOWN 4HE RACES ARE SHOWN LIVE ON NATIONAL 46 AND REPEATED ENDLESSLY ALL EVENING !LL YEAR ROUND #INEMA -ODERNO ON 0IAZZA 4OLOMEI SCREENS A TWENTY MINUTE l LM EXPLAINING THE HISTORY AND DRAMA OF THE RACE DUBBED INTO %NGLISH
0ALIO PRACTICALITIES )TS NOT HARD TO GET A VIEW OF ANY OF THE PRACTICE RACES OR CEREMONIES BUT FOR THE 0ALIO PROPER YOU NEED TO PLAN AHEAD A LITTLE 4ICKETS FOR GRANDSTAND OR BALCONY SEATS RANGED AROUND THE #AMPO COST FROM + TO + OR MORE AND ARE SOLD OUT MONTHS BEFORE THE RACE 4O NAB A SEAT FOR NEXT YEARS EVENT CONTACT 0ALIO 6IAGGI 0IAZZA 'RAMSCI NO WEBSITE )N THE 5+ CONTACT ,IAISONS !BROAD WWWLIAISONSABROADCOM -OST ORDINARY SPECTATORS CROWD FOR FREE INTO THE CENTRE OF THE #AMPO &OR THE BEST VIEW YOU NEED TO HAVE FOUND A POSITION BY PM ON THE INNER RAIL IDEALLY AT THE STARTl NISH LINE AND TO KEEP IT FOR THE NEXT SIX HOURS )F YOURE NOT INSTALLED HERE THERES REALLY NO RUSH AS YOULL BE ABLE TO SEE A CERTAIN AMOUNT FROM ANYWHERE WITHIN THE THRONG "E PREPARED TO STAND YOUR GROUND PEOPLE KEEP POURING IN RIGHT UP UNTIL A FEW MINUTES BEFORE THE RACE AND THE SWELL OF THE CROWD CAN BE OVERWHELMING "E AWARE THAT YOU WONT BE ABLE TO LEAVE THE #AMPO FOR AT LEAST TWO HOURS AFTER THE RACE 4OILETS SHADE AND REFRESHMENT FACILITIES ARE MINIMAL WHICH IS PERHAPS WHY SO LITTLE DRINKING GOES ON )F YOU ARRIVE LATE IN THE DAY YOU MIGHT TRY MAKING YOUR WAY TO 6IA 'IOVANNI $UPRÏ BEHIND THE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO FROM WHERE THE POLICE %VERY LAST VANTAGE POINT IS COMMANDEERED FOR A VIEW USUALLY ALLOW PEOPLE INTO THE CENTRE OF THE OF THE ACTION SQUARE AN HOUR OR SO BEFORE THE RACE
2ESTAURANTS
-ON FROM .OV TO &EB ,A #INA #ASATO DI 3OTTO 1UIET AFFORDABLE #HINESE RESTAURANT M FROM THE #AMPO 4HE FOOD IS ADEQUATE AND MAKES A CHANGE FROM 4USCAN COOKING ,A 4AVERNA DEL #APITANO 6IA DEL #APITANO ! STONES THROW FROM THE $UOMO THIS IS A SERENE DINING ROOM WITH MEDIEVAL VAULTED CEILING AND STRAIGHT DOWN THE LINE 4USCAN COOK ING PANZANELLA BREAD SALAD PICI PAPPARDELLE BISTECCHE AND THE LIKE #LOSED 4UES ,E #AMPANE 6IA DELLE #AMPANE (IGH QUALITY AND INNOVATIVE 3IENESE CUISINE WITH AN EMPHASIS ON lSH AND SEAFOOD AT A SMALL FORMAL RESTAURANT JUST BELOW THE $UOMO 3ET MENUS n DI TERRA OR DI MARE n COST AROUND + #LOSED -ON /STERIA "OCCONE DEL 0RETE 6IA DI 3AN 0IETRO /NE OF 3IENAS NEWER RESTAU RANTS NEAR THE 0INACOTECA .AZIONALE SERVING DELI CIOUS CROSTINI SALADS AND PASTA DISHES IN A STYLISH SETTING #LOSED 3UN /STERIA #ASTELVECCHIO 6IA DI #ASTELVECCHIO !DVENTUROUS lRST RATE AND NICELY INFORMAL OSTERIA n A GOOD BET FOR VEGETARIANS PLUS PLENTY OF MEAT DISHES AND HOMEMADE PASTA TOO -ENUS CHANGE DAILY 3ITED OFF 6IA 3AN 0IETRO NEAR THE 0INACOTECA .AZIONALE #LOSED 4UES *ULY -ODERATE /STERIA DEL &ICOMEZZO 6IA DEI 4ERMINI ! SMALL SIMPLE OSTERIA A TOUCH OFF THE TOURIST TRACK WITH A COOL PASTEL INTERIOR GOOD VALUE SET PRICE MENUS AT LUNCH WITH INNOVA TIVE 4USCAN FOOD MENUS CHANGE WEEKLY AND PRICIER Ì LA CARTE IN THE EVENING #LOSED 3UN
\ 2ESTAURANTS
!L -ARSILI 6IA DEL #ASTORO WWWRISTORANTEALMARSILIIT ! LARGE ELEGANT AND UPMARKET RESTAURANT WITH GOOD LOCAL DISHES INCLUD ING SOME CHOICE FOR VEGETARIANS AND ATTENTIVE SERVICE 4HE RISOTTO AL LIMONE IS WORTH DALLYING OVER PLUS THEY HAVE PLENTY OF MORE EXOTIC DISHES SUCH AS GUINEA FOWL WITH PRUNES PINE NUTS AND ALMONDS BUYS A MEMORABLE MEAL !NTICA /STERIA $A $IVO 6IA &RANCIOSA ! CLOSE SECOND BEHIND /STERIA ,E ,OGGE FOR AMBIENCE THANKS TO ITS EXTRAORDINARY SUBTERRANEAN CELLAR DINING ROOMS 5PSTAIRS IS PRETTY TOO AND THE FOOD IS WELL ABOVE AVERAGE WITH STARTERS AT AROUND +n AND MAINS AT +n #LOSED 4UES #ANE E 'ATTO 6IA 0AGLIARESI $ONT BE PUT OFF BY THE UN 3IENESE ART NOUVEAU STYLE DECOR THIS FRIENDLY RESTAURANT SERVES SUPERB 4USCAN CUCINA NUOVA FEATURING SEVEN COURSES ON ITS MENá DEGUSTAZIONE THIS WILL COST YOU AROUND + WITH A SELECTION OF WINES INCLUDED ,OCATED SOUTHEAST OF THE #AMPO OFF 6IA DI 0ANTANETO #LOSED 4HURS AND LUNCH DAILY $A 4ROMBICCHE 6IA DELLE 4ERME ! TINY YOUTHFUL NO NONSENSE TRATTORIA WITH A LIMITED MENU OF GLORIlED SNACKS n SOUP CHEESE SALAMI AND MEAT STEWS n ACCOM PANIED BY ROUGH WINE SERVED STRAIGHT FROM THE BARREL #LOSED 3UN 'ALLO .ERO 6IA DEL 0ORRIONE WWWGALLONEROIT 1UIRKY VAULTED PLACE OFFERING A 4USCAN MENU FOR AROUND + OR A SIX COURSE MEDIEVAL MENU FOR HALF AS MUCH AGAIN BOASTING DISHES SUCH AS BITTERSWEET DUCK WITH CHEESE RAVIOLI AND CHICKEN IN SWEET WINE WITH FRUIT $AILY EXCEPT
3 ) % .!
3IENA USED TO HAVE A POOR REPUTATION FOR RESTAURANTS BUT OVER THE LAST FEW YEARS THINGS HAVE IMPROVED WITH A RANGE OF IMAGINATIVE OSTERIE OPENING UP AND A GEN ERAL HIKE IN STANDARDS 4HE ONLY PLACE YOU NEED SURRENDER GASTRONOMIC IDEALS IS FOR A MEAL OUT IN THE #AMPO THE POSH RESTAURANT HERE )L #AMPO ISNT WORTH THE MONEY n THOUGH ITS THE ONE TO GO FOR IF YOU WANT TO EAT IN STYLE IN THE SQUARE n WHICH LEAVES A CHOICE OF ROUTINE BUT REASONABLY PRICED PIZZERIE &OR CHEAPER MEALS YOULL GENERALLY DO BEST WALKING OUT A LITTLE FROM THE CENTRE WEST TOWARDS 3AN .ICCOLÛ AL #ARMINE OR NORTH TOWARDS THE 0ORTA #AMOLLIA ,OCAL SPECIALITIES INCLUDE PICI NOODLE LIKE PASTA WITH TOASTED BREADCRUMBS SALSICCE SECCHE DRIED SAUSAGES lNOCCHIONA MINCED PORK mAVOURED WITH FENNEL CAPOLOCCI SPICED LOIN OF PORK PAPPA COL POMODORO BREAD AND TOMATO SOUP TORTINO DI CARCIOl ARTICHOKE OMELETTE AND FAGIOLI ALLUCCELLETTO BEAN AND SAUSAGE STEW 4HE CITY IS ALSO FAMOUS FOR A WHOLE RANGE OF CAKES AND BISCUITS INCLUDING THE UBIQUITOUS PANFORTE A DENSE AND DELICIOUS WEDGE OF NUTS FRUIT AND HONEY THAT ORIGINATED WITH PILGRIMAGE JOURNEYS CAVALLUCCI ANISEED NUT AND SPICE BISCUITS COPATE NOUGAT WAFERS AND RICH ALMOND RICCIARELLI BISCUITS !LL THESE RESTAURANTS ARE LOCATED ON THE MAP ON PPn
3 ) % .!
/STERIA )L #ARROCCIO 6IA DEL #ASATO DI 3OTTO *UST M FROM THE #AMPO AND NOT MANY TABLES n ROOM FOR FORTY INSIDE AND TWENTY OUTSIDE 3ERVES lNE 4USCAN FOOD IN A WELCOM ING INFORMAL ATMOSPHERE -ENUS CHANGE WEEKLY #LOSED 7ED /STERIA )L 'RATTACIELO 6IA 0ONTANI ! VERY LOCAL VINAIO SERVING WINE AND SNACKS THIS MINUSCULE CAFE OSTERIA n IRONICALLY NAMED h4HE 3KYSCRAPERv n MAKES A POPULAR LUNCH STOP FOR ITS MARINATED ANCHOVIES 4USCAN BEANS AND SALAMI /STERIA ,E ,OGGE 6IA DEL 0ORRIONE 4HE BEST LOOKING RESTAURANT
IN CENTRAL 3IENA OCCUPYING A lNE OLD CABINET LINED FARMACIA OFF THE #AMPO BY THE ,OGGIA DEL 0APA 'OOD PASTA AND SOME UNUSUAL SECONDI BUT THE QUALITY OF FOOD n ONCE EXCEPTIONAL n IS THESE DAYS MERELY ABOVE AVERAGE #LOSED 3UN 4RATTORIA 'ARIBALDI 6IA 'IOVANNI $UPRÏ ! CHEAP AND BASIC TRATTORIA SITED BELOW A LOCANDA JUST SOUTH OF THE #AMPO #LOSED 3AT 4ULLIO AI 4RE #RISTI 6ICOLO 0ROVENZANO ! 3IENESE INSTITUTION SINCE THIS IS THE NEIGHBOURHOOD RESTAURANT OF THE 'IRAFFA CONTRADA AND IS DRAPED WITH HERALDIC BANNERS 3ERVES AN AMBITIOUS PREDOMINANTLY lSH AND SEAFOOD MENU 4ERRACE TABLES IN SUMMER #LOSED 7ED
\ "ARS CLUBS AND EVENTS
"ARS CLUBS AND EVENTS 4HERE ARE PLEASANT NEIGHBOURHOOD BARS IN MOST CONTRADE AND PLENTY OF NEON LIT MODERN ESTABLISHMENTS SCATTERED AROUND THE CITY FOR QUICK REFRESHMENT 4HE %NOTECA )TALIANA -ON NOONnPM 4UESn3AT NOONnAM WWWENOTECA ITALIANAIT FREE INSIDE THE &ORTEZZA DI 3ANTA "ARBARA IS )TALYS LARGEST NATIONAL WINE COLLECTION )TS CELLAR STOCKS AND EXHIBITS EVERY SINGLE )TALIAN WINE ALMOST A THOUSAND OF THEM AND THERES A BAR WHERE YOU CAN ORDER A GLASS OF ANY OF THE CHEAPER WINES OR BUY ANY BOTTLE 9OU NEED TO HEAD TO THE $UBLIN 0OST UNINSPIRINGLY SITUATED ON 0IAZZA 'RAMSCI OR "ARONE 2OSSO 6IA DEI 4ERMINI FOR A PINT OF BEER THE LATTER OPEN IN THE EVENINGS ONLY WITH LIVE MUSIC UNTIL LATE /F THE TERRACE CAFÏS RINGING THE #AMPO THE SMALL ,IBERAMENTE AT THE CORNER OF #ASATO DEI "ARBIERI HAS MORE CHARM THAN MOST #LUB LIFE IS FAIRLY LIMITED IN 3IENA BUT FOR A GLIMPSE OF THE SMART 3IENESE ON THE DANCE mOOR TRY !L #AMBIO 6IA DI 0ANTANETO n A DARK MOODY PLACE WITH CONVENTIONAL DANCE MUSIC AND A STEEP ENTRANCE FEE SOMEWHAT LIVELIER IS
0ICNICS SNACKS AND ICE CREAM
)TS AN EASY MATTER TO PUT TOGETHER YOUR OWN PICNIC ALLOWING A VERY CHEAP MEAL IN THE #AMPO OR OTHER SQUARES 0IAZZA 3ANTA -ARIA DEI 3ERVI IS A NICE SPOT 9OU CAN BUY PIZZA BY WEIGHT FROM MANY SMALL HOLE IN THE WALL PLACES AROUND THE CITY OR PHONE AN ORDER AHEAD FOR FRESH BAKED PIZZA WHOLE OR BY THE SLICE FROM -ISTER 0IZZA 6IA DELLE 4ERME CLOSED 3UN "ROWSE GOURMET SUPPLIES AT THE SENSATIONAL AND EXTRAVAGANTLY STOCKED FOOD STORES SUCH AS -ANGANELLI 6IA DI #ITTÌ 4HE COVERED MARKET SOUTH OF THE #AMPO IN 0IAZZA DEL -ERCATO IS ALSO GOOD FOR PICNIC PROVISIONS WHILE 7EDNESDAY MORNINGS SEE A FULL SCALE OPEN AIR MARKET n WITH FOOD AND CLOTHING STALLS n SPRAWL ACROSS ,A ,IZZA ! GOOD PLACE FOR LOCAL WINES IS THE %NOTECA 3AN $OMENICO 6IA DEL 0ARADISO WWWENOTECASANDOMENICOIT 0ANFORTE IS BEST BOUGHT FRESH BY THE ETTO HECTOGRAM G IN ANY OF THE BAKERIES OR PASTICCERIE ALONG "ANCHI DI 3OPRA THE GIFT PACKAGED SLABS ARENT SO GOOD ,A .UOVA 0ASTICCERIA 6IA 'IOVANNI $UPRÏ IS ONE OPTION BUT THE BEST PLACE TO START IS .AN NINI "ANCHI DI 3OPRA n 4HIS IS ALSO AMONG THE BEST BARS FOR SNACKS WITH LOCALS CONSTANTLY DROPPING IN TO CHOOSE FROM THE WIDE RANGE OF SWEET AND SAVOURY NIBBLES -OST 3IENESE BUY ICE CREAM AT ONE END OR THE OTHER OF THE PASSEGGIATA n EITHER AT THE .ANNINI 'ELATERIA AT THE NORTHERN END OF "ANCHI DI 3OPRA OR "RIVIDIO JUST OFF THE #AMPO WHERE 6IA DI #ITTÌ MEETS 6IA DEI 0ELLEGRINI
"ANKS AND EXCHANGE "ANKS ARE CONCENTRATED ALONG "ANCHI DI 3OPRA NORTH OF THE #AMPO AND THERES AN AUTOMATIC EXCHANGE MACHINE IN THE WINDOW OF THE -ONTE DEI 0ASCHI AT NO 4HE TRAIN STATION TICKET OFlCE WILL ALSO CHANGE CASH AND TRAVELLERS CHEQUES BUT THE MOST CENTRAL OPTION IS %XACT IN 6IA DI #ITTÌ WHICH CHARGES A HEFTY COM MISSION BUT IS OPEN DAILY AMnPM "IKE AND SCOOTER RENTAL 2ENT BIKES AT $& "IKE 6IA -ASSETANA 2OMANA SCOOT ERS AND BIKES AT $& -OTO 6IA DEI 'AZZANI n OR !UTOMOTOCICLI 0EROZZI 6IA DEL 2OMITORIO "OOKS AND NEWSPAPERS %NGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKS n NOVELS PLUS A FAIR SELECTION OF BOOKS ON 3IENA AND 4USCANY n ARE AT THE ,IBRERIA 3ENESE 6IA DI #ITTÌ TWO BRANCHES OF &ELTRINELLI "ANCHI DI 3OPRA AND "ASSI 6IA DI #ITTÌ n 4EMPO ,IBERO #ASATO DI 3OTTO CLOSED -ON IS A SMALLER AND FRIENDLIER LOCAL BOOKSHOP WITH AN %NGLISH SELECTION "US INFORMATION 4ICKET OFlCES BENEATH 0IAZZA 'RAMSCI HAVE INFORMATION ON ALL ROUTES 4HE BUS
COMPANY SERVING 3IENA AND ITS HINTERLAND IS CALLED 42! ). WWWTRAINSPAIT ,ANGUAGE COURSES 3CUOLA ,EONARDO DA 6INCI 6IA DEL 0ARADISO WWWSCUOLA LEONARDOCOM 3AENA )ULIA 6IA -ONNA !GNESE 5NIVERSITÌ PER 3TRANIERI 6IA 0ANTA NETO ,EFT LUGGAGE HR LOCKER SERVICE AT THE TRAIN STA TION STAFFED FACILITY AT BUS STATION IN 0IAZZA 'RAMSCI DAILY AMnPM + PER BAG PER DAY ,OST PROPERTY #OMUNE DI 3IENA #ASATO DI 3OTTO -ONn3AT AMnPM 4UES ALSO nPM -ARKET 3IENAS MARKET TAKES PLACE AT ,A ,IZZA 7ED AMnPM 0OLICE 1UESTURA IS ON 6IA DEL #ASTORO 5FlCIO 3TRANIERI &OREIGNERS /FlCE 0IAZZA *ACOPO DELLA 1UERCIA -ON 4UES AMnAM 7ED AMnAM nPM 0OST OFlCE 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI -ONn&RI AMn PM 3AT AMnNOON
\ ,ISTINGS s 4RAVEL DETAILS
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THE PUBDISCO "ARONE 2OSSO SEE ABOVE THE LOCAL HAUNT OF FOREIGN STUDENTS AND 3IENESE ARMY BOYS WITH A FAIR SELECTION OF BEERS AND A RANGE OF DANCE MUSIC 4HE 7ALKABOUT 0UB 6IA DI 0ANTANETO IS A PREDICTABLE h!USSIEv PUB WITH 3KY 46 FOR BIG SPORTS EVENTS AND !USTRALIAN AND "RITISH BEERS #ITY EVENTS AND FESTIVALS ARE ADVERTISED ON POSTERS AROUND 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI AND IN THE #AMPO BACK STREETS THE WEBSITE WWWTERRESIENAIT IS ALSO A GOOD SOURCE OF INFORMATION #LASSICAL MUSIC TASTES ARE THE MOST LIKELY TO BE REWARDED AS THE -ONTE DEI 0ASCHI AND !CCADEMIA #HIGIANA WWWCHIGIANA IT SPONSOR IMPRESSIVE CONCERTS THROUGHOUT THE YEAR 4HE 3IENA SUPPLEMENT OF ,A .AZIONE NEWSPAPER HAS A WHATS ON SECTION 4HE MOST PRESTIGIOUS CLASSICAL MUSIC FESTIVAL n OFTEN FEATURING A MAJOR OPERA PRODUCTION n IS *ULY AND !UGUSTS %STATE -USICALE #HIGIANA WWWCHIGIANAIT /THER CULTURAL EVENTS INCLUDE 3IENA *AZZ WWWSIENAJAZZIT IN LATE *ULY AND !UGUST CON CERTS ARE HELD IN VENUES AROUND THE CITY AND LOCAL TOWNS AND VILLAGES AND THE MODEST BUT INCREASINGLY POPULAR 3IENA &ILM &ESTIVAL WWW SIENAlLMFESTIVALIT IN 3EPTEMBER
4RAVEL DETAILS 4RAINS 3IENA TO !SCIANO DAILY MIN "UONCONVENTO DAILY MIN #HIUSI DAILY HR MIN %MPOLI HOURLY MINnHR MIN CHANGE FOR 0ISA AND &LORENCE &LORENCE DAILY HR MIN 'ROS SETO DAILY HR MIN
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MIN &LORENCE HOURLY HR MIN 'AIOLE IN #HI ANTI DAILY MIN 'ROSSETO HOURLY HR MIN -ONTICIANO DAILY HR MIN -ONTALCINO DAILY HR MIN -ONTEPULCIANO DAILY HR MIN
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BEST KNOWN VILLAGE
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\ &ROM 3IENA TO 3AN 'IMIGNANO
UST AS 3IENA PROVIDES A PERFECT ANTIDOTE TO &LORENCE SO THE RURAL HILL TOWNS THAT CLUSTER AROUND THE OLD CAPITAL OF THE 3IENESE 2EPUBLIC PROVIDE AN INTIMATE COUNTERPOINT TO THE LARGER TOWNS THAT CROWD IN ON THE 4USCAN CAPITAL -OST OF 3IENAS SATELLITES ARE MORE APPEALING THAN THEIR &LORENTINE EQUIVALENTS AND BENElT FROM SURROUNDINGS THAT EXEM PLIFY THE TIMELESS PASTORAL QUALITY FOR WHICH THE REGION IS RENOWNED 3AN 'IMIGNANO IS THE PICK OF THE BUNCH THANKS MAINLY TO ITS FAMOUS TOWERS A VISION OF MEDIEVAL PERFECTION NOW BADLY COMPROMISED IN SUMMER BY THE HUGE NUMBERS OF DAY TRIPPERS WHO CROWD ITS WARREN OF STREETS 4HAT SAID THE FRESCO LINED #OLLEGIATA AND A CLUTCH OF MINOR CHURCHES NOT TO MENTION AN EXCELLENT CIVIC MUSEUM ARE ALL UNMISSABLE ATTRACTIONS AND WELL WORTH BUILDING AN OVERNIGHT STAY AROUND -ONTERIGGIONI A LESS WELL KNOWN AND THUS LESS SPOILT MEDIEVAL VILLAGE IS ANOTHER MUST SEE AND CAN EASILY BE INCOR PORATED INTO A VISIT TO #OLLE DI 6AL D%LSA ANOTHER CENTURIES OLD ENCLAVE BUT ONE THAT IS OFTEN OVERLOOKED BY VISITORS WHO ARE DETERRED BY ITS UNLOVELY OUTSKIRTS 9OU SHOULD ALSO TRY TO lT 6OLTERRA INTO YOUR ITINERARY SLIGHTLY CUT OFF FROM THE OTHER 3IENESE HILL TOWNS ITS A DRAMATICALLY SITUATED BROODING SORT OF TOWN WHOSE %TRUSCAN ORIGINS ARE NEVER FAR FROM THE SURFACE +NOWN PRIMARILY FOR ITS ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM IT ALSO HAS A FASCINATING ART GALLERY AND A CAPTIVATING CATHEDRAL SQUARE
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4HE 3IENESE HILL TOWNS
&ROM 3IENA TO 3AN 'IMIGNANO (EADING WEST FROM 3IENA MOST PEOPLE HAVE 3AN 'IMIGNANO lRMLY IN THEIR SIGHTS )F YOU HAVE TIME THE BEST ROUTE TO FOLLOW IS THE . AS FAR AS THE TURRETED FORTRESS HAMLET OF -ONTERIGGIONI THEN TURN WEST TO #OLLE DI 6AL D%LSA WHOSE STRIKING MEDIEVAL UPPER TOWN EXTENDS ALONG A NARROW RIDGE &ROM #OLLE A SCENIC AND MINOR ROAD WHICH WALKERS MIGHT TRY PARALLELING ACROSS COUNTRY RUNS ON VIA "IBBIANO TO 3AN 'IMIGNANO /N PUBLIC TRANSPORT YOU CAN STOP EASILY ENOUGH AT #OLLE BEFORE CATCHING ANOTHER BUS TO THE INDUSTRIAL TOWN OF 0OGGIBONSI n AND A CONNECTION FROM THERE TO 3AN 'IMIGNANO FOR -ONTERIGGIONI YOU CAN CATCH A BUS TO THE TURNING UP TO
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THE VILLAGE AND HAIL ANOTHER ONE ON FROM THERE TO #OLLE OR BACK TO 3IENA -OST BUSES FROM 3IENA TO 3AN 'IMIGNANO INVOLVE A 0OGGIBONSI CONNECTION THOUGH THERES A DIRECT 42! ). SERVICE IN SUMMER .OTE THAT THE ROUTE NORTH FROM 0OGGIBONSI TO %MPOLI n VIA #ERTALDO AND #ASTELlORENTINO n IS COVERED FROM P ONWARDS
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\ &ROM 3IENA TO 3AN 'IMIGNANO
4HE PERFECTLY PRESERVED WALLS OF -/.4%2)'')/.) DECLARE THEIR PRESENCE FOR MILES AHEAD FROM THE . AND THE 3IENAn&LORENCE AUTOSTRADA 4HE CITADEL BEGUN BY THE 3IENESE IN WAS A STRATEGIC TARGET FOR ANY TROOPS MARCHING ON 3IENA FROM THE NORTH AND IS IMMORTALIZED IN $ANTES )NFERNO IN WHICH HE COMPARES THE FOURTEEN TOWERS n ADDED DURING RECONSTRUCTION IN AFTER THE 3IENESE VICTORY AT -ONTAPERTI n TO GIANTS IN AN ABYSS 4HE VERSE GREETS YOU ON THE WALL OF THE GATE AS YOU ENTER THE VILLAGE WHICH CONSISTS OF A COUPLE OF DOZEN HOUSES GARDENS TWO RESTAURANTS THE ODD BAR AND SEVERAL OVERPRICED TOURIST OUT LETS 4HE HOUSES GIVE WAY TO GARDENS AS THEY NEAR THE RAMPARTS AND AN ATHLETE COULD PROBABLY RUN THE MAIN STREET FROM SOUTH TO NORTH GATES IN ABOUT TEN SECONDS !LL OF WHICH OF COURSE ACCOUNTS FOR THE CHARM OF THE PLACE THOUGH LIKE 3AN 'IMIGNANO ITS SEVERELY COMPROMISED IN SUMMER BY THE LEGIONS OF DAY TRIPPERS 4HE WALLS APART THERE ARE VIRTUALLY NO SIGHTS BAR A PRETTY 2OMANESQUE CHURCH AND A SMALL MUSEUM THE -USEO -ULTIMEDIALE 0IAZZA 2OMA DAILY MID -ARCH TO MID .OV AMnPM REST OF THE YEAR AMnPM CLOSED MID *AN TO MID &EB + WHICH EXHIBITS ARCHEOLOGICAL FRAGMENTS FROM SITES IN AND AROUND THE VILLAGE 9OU DONT NECESSARILY NEED A CAR OR BIKE TO REACH -ONTERIGGIONI THE TRAIN STA TION IS KM NORTH AT #ASTELLINA 3CALO ABOUT TWENTY MINUTES WALK AWAY 4HERES A SMALL TOURIST OFlCE ,ARGO &ONTEBRANDA -AYn/CT DAILY AMnPM .OVn!PRIL 4UESn3UN nPM /F THE TWO MODERATELY PRICED
5 -ONTERIGGIONIS MEDIEVAL WALLS
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\ &ROM 3IENA TO 3AN 'IMIGNANO
RESTAURANTS )L 0OZZO CLOSED 3UN EVE -ON IN 0IAZZA 2OMA THE MAIN SQUARE IS PERHAPS THE BETTER KNOWN BUT )L 0ICCOLO #ASTELLO OPPOSITE IS EQUALLY GOOD "OTH SPECIALIZE IN GAME AND ADD LIBERAL SPRIN KLINGS OF TRUFmES AND PORCINI TO MANY DISHES !LSO ON THE MAIN STREET IS THE &ATTORIA #ASTELLO DI -ONTERIGGIONI WINE SHOP WHICH SELLS A lNE LOCAL #HIANTI 6INSANTO AND GRAPPA 4HE VILLAGE ALSO BOASTS A CLASSY AND VERY PLEASANT FOUR STAR HOTEL -ONTERIGGIONI 6IA ) -AGGIO WWWHOTELMONTERIGGIONI NET WHOSE TWELVE ROOMS n DESPITE STEEP PRICES n ARE QUICKLY SNAPPED UP 4HERE ARE ALSO PRIVATE ROOMS IN THE VILLAGE THE TOURIST OFlCE HAS DETAILS ! GOOD THREE STAR HOTEL ,A #ASALTA CASALTA CHIANTITURISMO IT LIES KM WEST AT THE HAMLET OF 3TROVE n WORTH THE TRIP JUST FOR ITS EXCEL LENT AND MODERATELY PRICED RESTAURANT -IDWAY TO 3TROVE ARE THE OUTSTANDING 2OMANESQUE CHURCH AND MONASTIC REMAINS OF !BBADIA A )SOLA ORIGINALLY AS THE NAME SUGGESTS AN ABBEY SET ON AN ISLAND AMID MARSHES )F THE CHURCH IS CLOSED ASK FOR THE KEY FROM THE CARETAKER IN THE HOUSE TO THE LEFT OF THE CHURCH OR AT THE BAR ACROSS THE ROAD
#OLLE DI 6AL D%LSA #/,,% $) 6!, $%,3! DESPITE PLENTIFUL BUS CONNECTIONS TO 3IENA AND 3AN 'IMIGNANO IS NOT MUCH EXPLORED 0ERHAPS #OLLE "ASSA THE LOWER TOWN PUTS VISITORS OFF PAPER MAKING AND THEN NAIL FACTORIES HAVE LONG MADE IT A PROSPER OUS PLACE AND TODAY ITS A SPRAWL OF LIGHT INDUSTRY AND HOUSING DEVELOPMENTS (OWEVER THE WALLED UPPER TOWN #OLLE !LTA IS A BEAUTY STRETCHING ALONG A RIDGE WITH ITS ONE LONG STREET LINED WITH MEDIEVAL PALAZZI /F PRE 2OMAN FOUNDATION THE TOWN OCCUPIES A NOTED PLACE IN THE ANNALS OF &LORENTINE AND 3IENESE RIVALRY FOR IT WAS AT THE "ATTLE OF #OLLE IN THAT THE &LORENTINES BLOODILY AVENGED THEIR DEFEAT BY THE 3IENESE AT THE "ATTLE OF -ONTAPERTI NINE YEARS EARLIER 4HE TOWN THEN VACILLATED BETWEEN THE TWO POW ERS BUT ALSO RETAINED A MEASURE OF INDEPENDENCE ITS FREE COMUNE INSTIGATING THE OFlCE OF #APITANO DEL 0OPOLO IN JUST A FEW YEARS AFTER &LORENCE AND 3IENA )T REMAINED RACKED BY FACTIONAL DISPUTES AND IN VOLUNTARILY PUT ITSELF UNDER THE PROTECTION OF &LORENCE 4HE ENSUING PERIOD OF RELATIVE PEACE ENABLED THE TOWN TO DEVELOP ITS WOOL AND PAPER INDUSTRIES BOTH OF WHICH MADE USE OF THE ABUNDANT SUPPLIES OF LOCAL WATER WHICH WAS CHANNELLED THROUGH THE AREA IN A SERIES OF SPECIALLY BUILT CANALS 'LASS AND PAPER ARE STILL LOCAL SPECIALITIES #OLLE "ASSA
#OLLE "ASSAS MAIN SQUARE 0IAZZA !RNOLFO IS NAMED AFTER !RNOLFO DI #AMBIO WHO WAS THE ARCHITECT OF THE $UOMO AND 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO IN &LORENCE AND WAS BORN HERE IN AROUND ! BLOCK NORTH IS THE TOWNS MAJOR PIECE OF MODERN ARCHITECTURE A REGIONAL HEADQUARTERS OF THE -ONTE DEI 0ASCHI BANK DESIGNED BY 'IOVANNI -ICHELUCCI MIXING 0ORTAKABIN LIKE OFlCES WITH OPEN GIRDERS ITS NOT ONE OF HIS MOST CAPTIVATING EFFORTS *UST SOUTH OF THE PIAZZA AT 6IA DEI &OSSI A IS THE -USEO DEL #RISTALLO 4UESn 3UN AMnNOON nPM WWWCRISTALLOORG + "UILT ON THE SITE OF AN EIGHTEENTH CENTURY GLASS FURNACE THE MUSEUM OUTLINES THE TRANSITION FROM #OLLES TRADITIONAL GLASS MAKING INDUSTRY FROM PRE INDUSTRIAL PIECES TO THE YEAR OF THE lRST FURNACE AND FROM TO THE BEGINNING OF CRYSTAL PRODUCTION IN TODAY #OLLE PRODUCES PERCENT OF )TALYS AND lFTEEN PERCENT OF THE WORLDS CRYSTAL 6IRTUALLY NEXT DOOR TO THE MUSEUM IS #OLLE "ASSAS ONLY OTHER WORTHWHILE SIGHT THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY CHURCH OF 3ANT!GOSTINO LARGELY REBUILT BY !NTONIO DA 3ANGALLO THE %LDER IN THREE YEARS AFTER EMBARKING
ON HIS MASTERPIECE THE CHURCH OF 3AN "IAGIO IN -ONTEPULCIANO SEE P 4HE SECOND ALTAR ON THE RIGHT CONTAINS A GLORIOUS -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 3AINTS BY 4ADDEO DI "ARTOLO PROBABLY A SURVIVING PANEL OF A TRIPTYCH 4HE EYE CATCHING MARBLE TABERNACLE IN THE NORTH AISLE THE -ADONNA DEL 0IANO IS ATTRIBUTED TO "AC CIO DA -ONTELUPO n #OLLE !LTA
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\ &ROM 3IENA TO 3AN 'IMIGNANO
&ROM 0IAZZA !RNOLFO ITS A PRETTY STEEP TEN MINUTE CLIMB UP TO #OLLE !LTA FOL LOW 6IA 3AN 3EBASTIANO AND THEN THE BRICK PAVED COSTA WHICH BRINGS YOU OUT AT THE EASTERN TIP OF THE TOWN )F YOU DRIVE OR TAKE A BUS UP YOURE DIRECTED AROUND A CIRCUITOUS ROUTE TO THE WEST END OF THE RIDGE BY THE 0ORTA .UOVA !T THE TOP OF THE COSTA YOUVE LITTLE CHOICE BUT TO FOLLOW 6IA DEL #ASTELLO THE CENTRE OF A THREE STREET GRID PAST A SCATTERING OF TOWER HOUSES !RNOLFO DI #AMBIO WAS BORN AT NO IN THE SO CALLED 4ORRE DI !RNOLFO *UST A LITTLE FARTHER DOWN IS THE SMALL 2OMANESQUE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA IN #ANONICA BUILT IN THE TWELFTH OR THIRTEENTH CENTURY BUT THOUGHT TO HAVE FAR OLDER ORIGINS )TS INTERIOR IS NOTABLE FOR A STUPENDOUS LATE FOURTEENTH CENTURY TABERNACLE OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 3AINTS BY 0IER &RANCESCO &IORENTINO THE FRAME ALMOST AS IMPRESSIVE AS THE PAINTING IS ORIGINAL -IDWAY ALONG 6IA DEL #ASTELLO THE 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO OPENS OUT mANKED BY THE CATHEDRAL AND THREE MUSEUMS 4HE $UOMO ITS 2OMANESQUE ORIGINS ALL BUT OBLITERATED BY LATER REMODELLING n FEATURES A MARBLE PULPIT BY 'IULIANO DA -AIANO WHO USED FOUR PILLARS AND CAPITALS FROM A MUCH OLDER WORK TO FRAME HIS BAS RELIEFS (IS BROTHER "ENEDETTO WAS RESPONSIBLE FOR THE FONT THE TWO HAVING WORKED TOGETHER DURING THE SAME PERIOD IN 3AN 'IMIGNANO 4HE FOURTH CHAPEL ON THE RIGHT HAS A FAMOUS .ATIVITY THE MASTERPIECE OF 2UTILIO -ANETTI THE LEADING 3IENESE FOLLOWER OF #ARAVAGGIO )N THE DEPTHS OF THE RIGHT TRANSEPT STANDS THE #APPELLA DEL 3ANTO #HIODO COM MISSIONED BY THE 0ICCOLOMINI POPE 0IUS )) TO HOUSE A NAIL CHIODO FROM THE #ROSS THE RELIC PROVIDING THE INSPIRATION FOR THE BEAUTIFUL TABERNACLE ATTRIBUTED TO -INO DA &IESOLE 4HE NEARBY BRONZE LECTERN PALM BRANCH AND EAGLE ARE BY 0IETRO 4ACCA A PUPIL OF 'IAMBOLOGNA WHOSE ECCENTRIC WORK WILL BE FAMILIAR IF YOUVE SEEN HIS STRANGE FOUNTAINS IN &LORENCES 0IAZZA 3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATA 4ACCA ALSO PROBABLY CAST THE IMPRESSIVE BRONZE #RUCIlX ABOVE THE HIGH ALTAR THE WORK HAVING BEEN DESIGNED BY 'IAMBOLOGNA )N THE 0ALAZZO 0RETORIO BESIDE THE $UOMO AT 6IA DEL #ASTELLO 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO IS THE -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO h2ANUCCIO "IANCHI "ANDINEL LIv -AYn/CT 4UESn3UN AMn nPM .OVn!PRIL 4UESn&RI nPM 3AT 3UN AMnNOON nPM + )TS ONLY OF PASSING INTEREST SAVE FOR THE lNDS FROM THE LOCAL 4OMBA DEI #ALISNA 3EPU ONE OF 4USCANYS MOST IMPORTANT %TRUSCAN TOMBS KEY TREASURES FROM IT ARE SCATTERED IN MUSEUMS AS FAR AlELD AS "ERLIN *UST OUT OF THE PIAZZA THE ATTRACTIVE THREE ROOM -USEO #IVICO E D!RTE 3ACRA HOUSED IN THE 0ALAZZO DEI 0RIORI THE OLD BISHOPS PALACE AT 6IA DEL #ASTELLO 4UESn3UN AMn nPM + IS MORE INTERESTING RETAINING FRESCOES OF HUNTING SCENES BY "ARTOLO DI &REDI )T HAS A FAIR COLLECTION OF 3IENESE PAINTINGS GATHERED FROM LOCAL CHURCHES WITH MORE WORKS DUE TO BE INSTALLED HERE 4HE MOST INTERESTING CANVAS IS A -AESTÌ FROM !BBADIA )SOLA ONCE ATTRIBUTED TO $UCCIO BUT NOW GIVEN TO THE ANONYMOUS -AESTRO DI "ADIA A )SOLA !BOUT M BEYOND 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO STANDS THE COVETABLE 0ALAZZO #AM PANA A -ANNERIST TOUR DE FORCE BUILT IN BY "ACCIO D!GNOLO THE ARCHITECT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RATHER LESS AMENABLE 0ALAZZO "ARTOLINI IN &LORENCE &ROM HERE A BRIDGE CONNECTS THE TOWNS MEDIEVAL CORE TO ITS lFTEENTH AND SIXTEENTH
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\ &ROM 3IENA TO 3AN 'IMIGNANO
CENTURY EXPANSIONS /FF TO THE NORTH STANDS AN IMPOSING &RANCISCAN MONASTERY WHOSE CHURCH 3AN &RANCESCO CLAIMS A HIGH ALTARPIECE OCCASIONALLY REMOVED OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH &OUR 3AINTS BY 3ANO DI 0IETRO A PAINTING THATS MORE THAN WORTH THE WALK RING THE BELL OF THE SEMINARY IF THE CHURCH IS SHUT )TS WORTH PAYING PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO THE SCENES IN THE PREDELLA WHICH ILLUSTRATE EPISODES FROM THE LIVES OF THE SAINTS DEPICTED IN THE MAIN PAINTING "ENEDICT #YRINUS $ONATUS AND *USTINA 4HE SECOND PANEL FROM THE LEFT SHOWS #YRINUS A #ROATIAN SAINT PREACHING TO THE CROWD THAT HAS COME TO WATCH HIS MARTYRDOM HES SHOWN MIRACULOUSLY mOATING ON THE STONE THAT HAD BEEN TIED ROUND HIS NECK IN AN ATTEMPT TO DROWN HIM $ONATUS PATRON SAINT OF !REZZO HIS BIRTHPLACE WAS MARTYRED IN THE FOURTH CENTURY AND IS REMEMBERED PRIMARILY FOR FRIGHTENING OFF A DRAGON WHICH HAD BEEN POISONING LOCAL WELLS 3ANO SHOWS HIM WITH HIS MULE BRAVELY MARCHING TO MEET THE DRAGON EMERGING FROM ITS CAVE 4HE RIGHT HAND SCENE SHOWS THE THIRD CENTURY *USTINA A ROYAL PRINCESS PATRON OF 0ADUA BUT MUCH VENERATED IN 0ISA BEING MARTYRED ON THE ORDERS OF HER FATHER 3TICKING WITH THE MAIN ROAD THROUGH THIS QUARTER YOU COME TO (OTEL !RNOLFO IN 0IAZZA 3ANTA #ATERINA /FF THIS SQUARE IS THE ALLEYWAY 6ICOLO DELLA &ONTANELLA WITH A GLASS WORKSHOP n #OLLE MAKES MUCH OF ITS MONEY FROM GLASS FACTORIES IN THE LOWER TOWN n AND THE %NOTECA DELLA &ORTUNA A WINE SHOP WITH A TINY UPSTAIRS RESTAURANT !T THE END OF THE MAIN ROAD STANDS THE HUGELY BASTIONED 0ORTA .UOVA ATTRIBUTED TO 'IULIANO DA 3ANGALLO 0RACTICALITIES
)NTER TOWN BUSES FROM &LORENCE 3IENA 6OLTERRA AND ELSEWHERE STOP IN #OLLE "ASSAS 0IAZZA !RNOLFO 4HE TOURIST OFlCE IS IN #OLLE !LTA AT 6IA &RANC ESCO #AMPANA !PRILn/CT -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM nPM .OVn*AN -ARCH -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM CLOSED &EB WWWCOLLEVALDELSANET 0IAZZA !RNOLFO IN #OLLE "ASSA IS HOME TO THE POLICE STATION LOST PROPERTY 9OU CAN RENT BIKES AND SCOOTERS FROM -ARIO !NTICHI 6IA ,IVINI 4HERES A TAXI RANK IN 0IAZZA !RNOLFO OR YOU CAN CALL OR #OLLES BUSY &RIDAY MARKET SPREADS OUT FROM 0IAZZA !RNOLFO 4HE ONLY BUDGET HOTEL IS THE ROOM TWO STAR (OTEL )L .AZIONALE IN #OLLE "ASSA JUST WEST OF 0IAZZA !RNOLFO 6IA 'ARIBALDI -ORE UPMARKET IS ,A 6ECCHIA #ARTIERA A ROOM THREE STAR IN "ASSA JUST OFF THE PIAZZA AT 6IA /BERDAN n WWWCHIANTITURISMO IT 4HE ONLY HOTEL IN #OLLE !LTA IS THE ROOM VERY CENTRAL THREE STAR !RNOLFO 6IA &RANCESCO #AMPANA WWWHOTELARNOLFOIT n ALTHOUGH IT CAN BE NOISY 4WO KILOMETRES OUT OF TOWN THE THREE STAR (OTEL 6ILLA "ELVEDERE WWWVILLABELVEDERECOM OCCUPIES AN EIGHTEENTH CENTURY VILLA ON THE -ONTERIGGIONI ROAD WITH lFTEEN ROOMS lNE GROUNDS TENNIS COURTS AND A POOL 4HE VIEWS OVER THE TOWN FROM THE THIRTY ROOM FOUR STAR 2ELAIS DELLA 2OVERE 6IA 0IEMONTE WWW CHIANTITURISMOIT ARE GOOD n BUT PERHAPS NOT GOOD ENOUGH TO JUSTIFY THE HIGH PRICES CHARGED 4HE OUTDOOR POOL IS A BOON IN SUMMER AND THE lNE HOTEL RESTAURANT )L #ARDINALE WWWILCARDINALENET CLOSED 7ED AND PERIODS BETWEEN *AN &EB AND .OV $EC OPEN TO NON PATRONS OCCUPIES THREE ATMOSPHERIC ROOMS OF A FORMER lFTEENTH CENTURY PAPAL WINE CELLAR )F THE TOWNS ARTISTIC ATTRACTIONS SEEM ON THE SLIGHT SIDE FOOD PROVIDES A MAJOR SPUR TO A COUPLE OF HOURS EXPLORATION )N !LTA THE %NOTECA DELLA &ORTUNA 6ICOLO DELLA &ONTANELLA IS A GREAT LITTLE 4USCAN RESTAURANT WITH MOD
ERATE PRICES /THERWISE INVESTIGATE THE HIGHLY RECOMMENDED AND -ICHELIN STARRED !RNOLFO 6IA 88 3ETTEMBRE nA WWWARNOLFO COM CLOSED 4UES 7ED WORTH THE EXPENSE STARTERS AROUND + MAINS + FOR A WONDERFUL MEAL )N "ASSA TRY THE LARGE AND BEAUTIFULLY CONVERTED TWELFTH CENTURY MILL THE -OLINO IL -ORO AT 6IA DELLA 2UOTA CLOSED -ON AT LUNCHTIME ON 4UES FOR GOOD MODERATELY PRICED LOCAL FOOD AND WINE 4O ROUND THINGS OFF CALL IN AT THE MAIN CAFÏ IN 0IAZZA !RNOLFO FOR AN ICE CREAM RECKONED BY NOT A FEW 4USCANS AS THE lNEST IN THE PROVINCE .IGHTLIFE IS RESTRICTED TO SEVERAL LATE BARS IN #OLLE "ASSA
#ASOLE D%LSA
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\ &ROM 3IENA TO 3AN 'IMIGNANO
4HE ROADS SOUTH OF #OLLE DI 6AL D%LSA LEAD INTO THE #OLLINE -ETALLÓFERE -ETAL (ILLS DOTTED WITH GEO THERMAL ENERGY PLANTS THE LARGEST ARE OUT TOWARDS ,AR DERELLO SEE P AND THEIR SNAKING PIPELINES /THER SIGHTS ARE FEW THOUGH THE COUNTRYSIDE AS EVER IS LIBERALLY SPRINKLED WITH 2OMANESQUE CHURCHES AND INSPIRINGLY PLACED FARMHOUSES AND CYPRESS GROVES /NE VERY PRETTY RURAL ROUTE LEADS THROUGH #!3/,% $%,3! A VILLAGE WHICH LOOKS INVITING FROM A DISTANCE BUT YIELDS RELATIVELY LITTLE OF SUBSTANTIAL INTEREST 42! ). BUSES ALSO PASS THIS WAY FROM #OLLE #OUNCIL OFlCES NOW OCCUPY #ASOLES FORTRESS THE VILLAGES MOST IMPOSING SIGHT !N %TRUSCAN TOMB DISCOVERED NEARBY REPUTEDLY ONE OF THE RICHEST EVER FOUND CONTRIBUTED SOME OF THE TREASURES IN THE ATTRACTIVELY PRESENTED -USEO #IVICO E DELLA #OLLEGIATA 0IAZZA DELLA ,IBERTÌ *ANn-ARCH 4UESn&RI AMnNOON 3AT 3UN nPM !PRILn/CT 4UESn3UN AMnNOON nPM .OV $EC 4UESn&RI nPM 3AT 3UN AMnNOON nPM CLOSED -ON EXCEPT ON PUBLIC HOLIDAYS + WHICH HAS THREE lRST mOOR ROOMS DEVOTED TO THESE AND OTHER ARCHEOLOGICAL lNDS AND lVE ROOMS GIVEN OVER TO PAINTING AND THE DECORATIVE ARTS (IGHLIGHTS OF THE LATTER ROOMS ARE A -AESTÌ BY A FOLLOWER OF $UCCIO SEVERAL WORKS BY !LESSANDRO #ASOLANI A LOCAL SIXTEENTH CENTURY ARTIST AND A BUST OF "ISHOP 4OMMASO !NDREI SEE BELOW BY 'ANO DI &AZIO 4HE MUSEUM STANDS ALONGSIDE THE lFTEENTH CEN TURY 'OTHIC #OLLEGIATA CHURCH RESTORED AFTER WAR BOMB DAMAGE HIGHLIGHTS OF WHICH ARE AN IMPORTANT -ADONNA AND #HILD AND -ASSACRE OF THE )NNOCENTS BY !NDREA DI .ICCOLÛ AND A -ADONNA AND #HILD ATTRIBUTED TO 3EGNA DI "UON AVENTURA 4HE CHURCH IS ALSO WORTH A LOOK FOR 'ANO DA 3IENAS TOMB OF "ISHOP 4OMMASO !NDREI A LOCAL CLERIC WHO DIED IN #ASOLES TOURIST OFlCE IS AT 0IAZZA DELLA ,IBERTÌ SAME HOURS AS -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO OR -ARKETS ARE HELD IN THE PIAZZA ON THE lRST AND THIRD -ONDAYS OF THE MONTH 4HE STUNNING 2ELAIS ,A 3UVERA WWWLASUVERACOM IS A FOUR STAR HOTEL LOCATED IN THE NEARBY HAMLET OF 0IEVESCOLA /RIGINALLY A 3IENESE CASTLE IT WAS CONVERTED INTO A VILLA BY "ALDASSARE 0ERUZZI DURING THE 2ENAISSANCE 4HE HOTEL INCORPORATES THE VILLA ALONG WITH A CONVERTED CHURCH AND MILL WITH ITS LOGGIA EXTENSIVE GROUNDS STEPPED TERRACES ANTIQUE FURNITURE PRICELESS WORKS OF ART RITZY SUITES AND BEAUTI FUL ROOMS ITS RANKED BY MANY AS 4USCANYS lNEST HOTEL OF ITS TYPE )T SHOULD BE n DOUBLE ROOMS IN VARIOUS ANNEXES START AT AROUND + STAY IN THE 6ILLA PROPER AND YOULL DROP A COOL + A NIGHT /FF SEASON AND WEB DEALS HOWEVER CAN BRING THESE PRICES DOWN !T A MORE REALISTIC LEVEL BOTH THE #ASOLE AREA AND 2ADICØNDOLI ANOTHER PRETTY THOUGH INSUBSTANTIAL VILLAGE KM TO THE SOUTH HAVE USEFUL RUN OF THE MILL HOTELS THE BIG FOUR STAR 'EMINI WITH SWIMMING POOL AT 3TRADA 0ROVINCIALE KM FROM #ASOLE WWW GEMINI LAPERGOLAIT AND THE SMALLER THREE STAR 6ERDE /ASIS 6IA 'UIDO 2OSSA
IN 2ADICØNDOLI WWWVERDEOASISIT "OTH TOWNS ALSO HAVE PLENTY OF AGRITURISMO ROOMS TO LET &OR A MODERATELY PRICED MEAL TRY THE EXCELLENT /STERIA DEL #AFFÒ #ASOLANI CLOSED 4HURS IN #ASOLES MAIN STREET 3INCE 2ADICØNDOLI HAS HAD A SMALL MUSEUM AT 6IA 4IBERIO 'AZZEI THE -USEO DELL%NERGIA *ULY TO MID /CT 7EDn-ON AMnPM nPM MID /CT TO !PRIL -ON 7ED &RI 3AT 3UN AMnPM -AYn*ULY -ON &RI 3AT 3UN AMnPM PLUS 7ED 4HURS AMnPM + DEVOTED TO THE REGIONS GEOTHERMAL POWER )T IS BEST SEEN IN CONJUNCTION WITH THE SIMILAR MUSEUM AND STRANGE GEOTHERMAL REGION AROUND ,ARDERELLO SEE P
0OGGIBONSI
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\ 3AN 'IMIGNANO
0/'')"/.3) KM EAST OF 3AN 'IMIGNANO HAS LITTLE MORE THAN ITS TRANSPORT LINKS AND ITS POLITICS TO RECOMMEND IT ! SERIOUS INDUSTRIAL TOWN CONSPICUOUSLY UGLY ALONGSIDE ITS 4USCAN NEIGHBOURS IT IS HOME TO WHAT IS REPUTED TO BE )TALYS REDDEST COUNCIL 0RIOR TO 7ORLD 7AR )) IT MIGHT HAVE LOOKED MORE LIKE #OLLE BUT BOMBING LEFT LITTLE TRACE OF ITS PAST OTHER THAN THE #ASTELLO DELLA -AGIONE A LITTLE 2OMANESQUE COMPLEX POSSIBLY WITH 4EMPLAR ORIGINS CONSISTING OF A CHAPEL AND PILGRIM HOSPICE 4HE UNlNISHED -EDICI FORT AT THE TOP OF THE TOWN ISNT WORTH THE SLOG ALTHOUGH THE SUPERB FOUR STAR HOTEL UP HERE IS THE 6ILLA 3AN ,UCCHESE ,OCALITÌ 3AN ,UCCHESE WWWVILLASANLUCCHESE COM IS A LOVELY VILLA HOTEL WITH POOL TENNIS COURTS AND A RURAL SETTING THAT SEEMS A WORLD AWAY FROM THE TATTY TOWN DOWN IN THE VALLEY /N A BUS JOURNEY FROM 3IENA TO 3AN 'IMIGNANO YOURE LIKELY TO HAVE TO CALL IN AT 0OGGIBONSI TO SWITCH BUSES 0OGGIBONSI ALSO HAS A TRAIN STATION ON THE 3IENAn%MPOLIn&LORENCE LINE WALK THE LENGTH OF PLATFORM EXIT THE GATES AND CROSS THE ROAD TO REACH THE BUS BAYS 3HOULD TRANSPORT CONNECTIONS NOT BE WORK ING IN YOUR FAVOUR THERE ARE BARS AND CAFÏS TO PASS THE TIME AND THE RESTAURANT 0IERO 6IA DELLA ,IBERTÌ CLOSED 7ED FOR INEXPENSIVE THIN CRUST PIZZAS AND RELIABLE PASTAS )F YOU GET STRANDED HEAD FOR THE TWO STAR HOTEL )TALIA 6IA 4RENTO WWWALBERGO ITALIAIT
3AN 'IMIGNANO 3!. ')-)'.!./ n hDELLE "ELLE 4ORRIv n IS PERHAPS THE BEST KNOWN VIL LAGE IN )TALY KM NORTHWEST OF 3IENA )TS STUNNING SKYLINE OF TOWERS BUILT IN ARISTOCRATIC RIVALRY BY THE FEUDING NOBLES OF THE TWELFTH AND THIRTEENTH CENTURIES EVOKES THE APPEARANCE OF MEDIEVAL 4USCANY MORE THAN ANY OTHER SIGHT !ND ITS IMAGE AS A h-EDIEVAL -ANHATTANv HAS FOR DECADES CAUGHT THE TOURIST IMAGINA TION HELPED ALONG BY ITS CONVENIENCE AS A DAY TRIP FROM &LORENCE OR 3IENA 4HE TOWN IS ALL THAT ITS CRACKED UP TO BE QUIETLY MONUMENTAL VERY WELL PRE SERVED ENTICINGLY RURAL AND WITH A lNE ARRAY OF RELIGIOUS AND SECULAR FRESCOES (OWEVER FROM %ASTER UNTIL /CTOBER 3AN 'IMIGNANO HAS VERY LITTLE LIFE OF ITS OWN n AND A LOT OF DAY TRIPPERS WHO DONT ALWAYS RESPECT THE PLACE ANTISOCIAL BEHAVIOUR AND LITTER ARE STARTING TO BECOME A PROBLEM )F YOU WANT TO GET ANY FEEL FOR THE TOWN BEYOND THE LEVEL OF ART TREASURES OR QUAINTNESS YOU REALLY NEED TO COME WELL OUT OF SEASON )F YOU CANT THEN AIM TO SPEND THE NIGHT HERE IN THE EVENINGS 3AN 'IMIGNANO TAKES ON A VERY DIFFERENT PACE AND ATMOSPHERE
3OME HISTORY
3AN 'IMIGNANO WAS PROBABLY FOUNDED BY THE %TRUSCANS n TOMBS IN THE SUR ROUNDING COUNTRYSIDE BEAR WITNESS TO THEIR PRESENCE n AND LATER INHABITED BY
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\ 3AN 'IMIGNANO
THAT THE TOWNS PREDOMINANTLY WOODEN HOUSES BEGAN TO BE REPLACED BY STONE STRUCTURES AND THE lRST OF THE FAMOUS TOWERS 7EALTH INCREASED DURING THE -IDDLE !GES AND 3AN 'IMIGNANOS POPULATION OF TWICE THE PRESENT NUMBER PROSPERED AS A RESULT OF AGRICULTURAL HOLDINGS AND A POSITION CLOSE TO THE 6IA &RANCIGENA THE ANCIENT TRADE AND PILGRIMAGE ROUTE BETWEEN 2OME AND NORTHERN %UROPE !T ITS HEYDAY IN THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY THE TOWNS WALLS ENCLOSED lVE MONASTERIES FOUR HOSPITALS PUBLIC BATHS AND A BROTHEL ! FORCE TO BE RECKONED WITH THE TOWN WAS MOSTLY CONTROLLED BY TWO GREAT FAMILIES THE !RDINGHELLI AND THE 3ALVUCCI n HEADS OF THE 'UELPH AND 'HIBELLINE FACTIONS RESPECTIVELY )NTER FAMILY FEUDS HOWEVER HAD LONG WREAKED HAVOC 4HE lRST CONmICT ERUPTED IN AND FOR THE FOLLOWING CENTURY THERE WERE FEW YEARS OF PEACE WHENEVER THE TOWN ITSELF WAS UNITED THERE WERE WARS WITH 6OLTERRA 0OGGIBONSI AND OTHER NEARBY TOWNS 4HE VENDETTAS CAME TO A HALT ONLY AFTER THE "LACK $EATH OF WHICH HAD A DEVASTATING EFFECT BOTH ON THE POPULATION AND n AS THE PILGRIM TRADE COLLAPSED n ON THE ECONOMY 4HE !RDING HELLI FAMILY DESPITE OPPOSITION FROM THE 3ALVUCCI APPLIED TO &LORENCE FOR THE TOWN TO BECOME A PART OF THAT CITYS COMUNE THE REQUEST WAS APPROVED BY ONLY ONE VOTE IN A REmECTION OF 3AN 'IMIGNANOS FRACTIOUS REPUTATION 3UBJECTION TO &LORENCE IN BROKE THE POWER OF THE NOBLES LEAVING 3AN 'IMIGNANO UNAFFECTED BY THE STRUGGLES BETWEEN ARISTOCRACY AND LOCAL COUNCIL THAT RACKED OTHER 4USCAN TOWNS 4HE TOWER HOUSES SYMBOLIC OF REAL CONTROL ELSEWHERE POSED LITTLE THREAT AND SO WERE NOT TORN DOWN TODAY lFTEEN OF AN ORIGINAL SURVIVE 4HE TOWN ITSELF FURTHER HIT BY PLAGUE IN AND PASSED INTO A RURAL BACKWATER EXISTENCE !T THE TURN OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY TRAVELLERS SPOKE OF 3AN 'IMIGNANO AS hMISERABLY POORv IT WAS HARDLY ROMAN TICIZED BY %- &ORSTER WHO TOOK THE PLACE UNDER THE NAME -ONTERIANO AS THE SETTING FOR HIS NOVEL 7HERE !NGELS &EAR TO 4READ 3AN 'IMIGNANOS POSTWAR HISTORY HAS BEEN ONE OF EVER INCREASING AFmUENCE THROUGH TOURISM AND THE PRODUCTION OF AN OLD ESTABLISHED BUT RECENTLY REJUVENATED WHITE WINE 6ERNAC CIA DI 3AN 'IMIGNANO
!RRIVAL INFORMATION AND ACCOMMODATION -OST PEOPLE VISIT 3AN 'IMIGNANO AS A DAY TRIP FROM 3IENA 5SING PUBLIC TRANSPORT YOULL NEED TO TAKE A BUS FROM 3IENA OR A TRAIN OR BUS TO 0OGGIBONSI MIN AND THEN PICK UP ONE OF THE ROUGHLY HOURLY BUSES FROM THE STATION FOR THE TWENTY MINUTE JOURNEY TO 3AN 'IMIGNANO 4HERES ALSO A FAIRLY REGULAR BUS SERVICE FROM #OLLE 6AL D%LSA !RRIVING BY BUS YOU CAN GET OUT EITHER AT 0IAZZALE -ARTIRI DI -ONTE -AGGIO JUST OUTSIDE 0ORTA 3AN 'IOVANNI THE SOUTH GATE OR BY THE NORTHERN GATE 0ORTA 3AN -ATTEO 9OU CAN BUY BUS TICKETS AND PICK UP TIMETABLES AT THE TOURIST OFlCE 4HE ROAD THAT RUNS AROUND THE WALLS HAS THREE PAY CAR PARKS n THE SIMPLEST OPTION FOR A SHORT STAY &REE PARKING IS POSSIBLE ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF TOWN CLOSE TO 0IAZ ZALE -ARTIRI DI -ONTE -AGGIO BUT THIS IS ONLY WORTHWHILE IF YOU NEED A SPACE FOR SEVERAL DAYS 4O DRIVE WITHIN THE WALLS n NOT NECESSARY UNLESS YOURE DROPPING OFF LUGGAGE AT YOUR HOTEL n YOU NEED TO BE ISSUED WITH A PERMIT FROM ONE OF THE HOTELS THE WAY IN IS THROUGH 0ORTA 3AN *ACOPO AT THE NORTHEAST CORNER 4HE HELPFUL TOURIST OFlCE DAILY AMnPM nPM WWWSANGIMIGNANOCOM IS ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO SUP PLYING LISTS OF HOTELS ROOMS AND APARTMENTS )T ALSO HAS TRANSPORT INFORMATION AND DOES FOREIGN EXCHANGE THOUGH 3AN 'IMIGNANO IS FULL OF CAMBIO KIOSKS AND CASHEXCHANGE MACHINES "OOK AT THE TOURIST OFlCE FOR h3TRADA DEL 6INOv WINE TASTING SESSIONS AND WALKING TOURS OF LOCAL CELLARS
3AN 'IMIGNANO &ESTIVAL
!CCOMMODATION
(OTELS "EL 3OGGIORNO 6IA 3AN 'IOVANNI WWWHOTELBELSOGGIORNOIT 3IMILAR TO THE ,EON "IANCO SEE BELOW IN QUALITY PRICE AND FACILITIES THOUGH BEWARE OF HAVING TO TAKE FULL BOARD IN SUMMER 4HE HOTEL RESTAURANT RATES QUITE HIGHLY BUT YOU PAY EXTRA FOR BREAKFAST UNLIKE THE #ISTERNA AND ,EON "IANCO 4HE ROOMS ARE SMALLISH BUT BEAUTIFULLY DONE EIGHT HAVE AIR CONDITIONING #ASOLARE ,E 4ERRE 2OSSE ,OCALITÌ 3AN $ONATO WWWHOTELTERREROSSE IT ! GREAT CHOICE OUT OF TOWN IN THE HAMLET OF 3AN $ONATO KM TO THE SOUTHWEST ON THE ROAD TO #ASTEL 3AN 'IMIGNANO 4HE THREE STAR HOTEL HAS ROOMS IN A CLASSIC 4USCAN COUNTRY HOUSE AND A LOVELY RURAL SETTING THE BIG POOL IS A SUMMER DRAW #LOSED .OVn&EB
,!NTICO 0OZZO 6IA 3AN -ATTEO WWWANTICOPOZZOCOM !N UPMARKET MEDIUM SIZED THREE STAR HOTEL OCCUPY ING A lFTEENTH CENTURY TOWN HOUSE 6ERY SWANKY DECOR WHICH IS REmECTED IN THE PRICE ,A #ISTERNA 0IAZZA DELLA #ISTERNA WWWHOTELCISTERNAIT %LEGANT TOWN HOTEL ESTABLISHED IN AND BUILT INTO A MEDIEVAL ENSEMBLE AT THE BASE OF SOME OF THE PIAZZAS FOURTEENTH CENTURY TOWERS )TS WORTH PAYING MORE FOR A ROOM WITH EITHER A POTENTIALLY NOISY PIAZZA OUTLOOK OR MORE RESTFUL COUNTRYSIDE VIEW
,A #OLLEGIATA ,OCALITÌ 3TRADA WWWLACOLLEGIATAIT 3IXTEENTH CENTURY &RANCIS CAN CONVENT CONVERTED INTO ONE OF 4USCANYS NEW BREED OF SUPER EXPENSIVE HOTELS FOR HONEYMOONS
\ 3AN 'IMIGNANO
! CRUCIAL FACTOR TO ENJOYING THE TOWN IS TO GET A ROOM INSIDE THE WALLS n WHICH FROM %ASTER TO /CTOBER MEANS BOOKING AHEAD ANDOR ARRIVING EARLY IN THE DAY 4HE TOWNS FOUR MAIN HOTELS ARE ALL EXPENSIVE THREE STAR ESTABLISHMENTS BUT PRIVATE ROOMS SCATTERED AROUND A DOZEN OR SO HOUSES WITHIN THE WALLS OFFER A BUDGET ALTERNATIVE CHARGES START AT AROUND + FOR A DOUBLE A LITTLE LESS FOR A SINGLE MOST HAVE SHARED BATHROOMS )TS ALSO POSSIBLE TO RENT APARTMENTS WITH COOKING FACILITIES BY THE DAY BUT BE SURE TO RESERVE AHEAD !CCOMMODATION IS BOOKABLE FOR FREE THROUGH THE VERY HELPFUL BOOKING AGENCY 3IENA (OTELS 0ROMOTION LOCATED JUST INSIDE THE SOUTHERN GATE AT 6IA 3AN 'IOVANNI -ONn3AT SUMMER nPM WINTER AMnPM nPM WWWSANGIMIGNANOCOM WHICH ARRANGES ROOMS IN HOTELS AND PRIVATE HOUSES APARTMENTS AND AGRITURISMO LETS 4HE TOURIST OFlCE WEBSITE WWWSANGIMIGNANOCOM PROVIDES AN UPDATED LIST OF PRIVATE ROOMS FOR RENT OPTIONS TEND TO CHANGE FROM YEAR TO YEAR TOGETHER WITH LINKS AND DETAILS OF THE ACCOMMODATION OFFERED
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3AN 'IMIGNANOS lRST FESTIVAL WAS HELD AT THE END OF THE S AND EXCEPT FOR A BREAK DURING 7ORLD 7AR )) HAS RUN JUST ABOUT EVERY YEAR SINCE IN *ULY AND !UGUST WITH A SERIES OF CLASSICAL CONCERTS PLUS THEATRE AND OPEN AIR lLMS 3OME OF THE GREAT AND MANY OF THE NOT SO GREAT NAMES OF )TALIAN OPERA HAVE PASSED THROUGH OVER THE YEARS INCLUDING 'ALLIANO -ASINI -ARIO $EL -ONACO 'INO "ECHI 'IOVACCHINO &ORZANO AND )RIS !DAMI #ORRADETTI n NOT THAT THIS HAS GIVEN THE TOWN FALSE AIRS 7HERE ELSE COULD YOU lND 4OSCA ON THE SAME BILL AS %NRICO -ORRICONES SOUNDTRACK FOR ! &ISTFUL OF $OLLARS .OT TO MENTION A SERIES OF )TALIAN POPULAR SONGS n OFFERED BY THE &ILARMONICA h' 0UCCINIv NO LESS n WHICH INCLUDES SUCH NOVELTIES AS ,A #ANZONE DEL 'RAPPA A PAEAN TO )TALIAN HOOCH 4HESE DAYS THE FESTIVALS QUIET PROVINCIAL AIR IS INCREASINGLY COMPROMISED BY SNOOTY OUTSIDERS PARTICULARLY AT THE HIGHLIGHTS OF THE EVENT n THE OUTDOOR OPERA PERFORMANCES IN 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO 4HE ATMOSPHERE REMAINS CHEERFULLY INFORMAL HOWEVER WITH THE STEPS OF THE #OLLEGIATA SET ASIDE AS TERRACING FOR THE TOWNS KIDS %VEN THE OFlCIAL BLURB EXHORTS YOU TO METTERE IL VESTITO DELLA FESTA AND CANTARE CON LA COMPAGNIA hPUT ON YOUR PARTY CLOTHES AND SING ALONGv $ETAILS AND TICKETS ARE AVAILABLE FROM THE TOUR IST OFlCE WWWSANGIMIGNANOCOM
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AND VERY SPECIAL OCCASIONS $OUBLE ROOMS COME IN AT AROUND + ,OCATED KM NORTH OF TOWN OFF THE #ERTALDO ROAD ,E 6ECCHIE -URA 6IA 0IANDORNELLA VECCHIEMURA TINIT ! COUPLE OF DOUBLE ROOMS ABOVE A RESTAURANT BUT MORE APPEALING THAN IT SOUNDS WITH WELCOMING OWNERS AND SUPERB VIEWS ,EON "IANCO 0IAZZA DELLA #ISTERNA WWWLEONBIANCOCOM 4ASTE FUL AIR CONDITIONED THREE STAR HOTEL WITH SEVENTEEN ROOMS OCCUPYING A FOURTEENTH CENTURY MANSION IN THE MAIN SQUARE ,IKE THE #ISTERNA THE BETTER ROOMS WHICH HAVE MEDIEVAL FEATURES SUCH AS VAULTED CEILINGS LOOK OUT OVER THE SQUARE OR THE 6AL D%LSA 4HE ROOF TERRACE FOR BREAKFAST DRINKS OR LOUNGING IS A BONUS 0ESCILLE ,OCALITÌ 0ESCILLE 3TRADA #ASTEL 3AN 'IMIGNANO WWWPESCILLEIT ! LARGE THREE STAR HOTEL RINGED BY VINEYARDS AND OLIVE GROVES KM NORTH OF TOWN WITH A POOL AND TENNIS COURTS 2OOMS ARE RESTRAINED AND SUITABLY RUSTIC THE BEST IS THE PANORAMIC AND EYRIE LIKE
4OWER 2OOM "REAKFAST IS AVAILABLE BUT THERES NO RESTAURANT
2ELAIS 3ANTA #HIARA 6IA ' -ATTEOTTI WWWRSCIT ! SMART FOUR STAR HOTEL WITH ROOMS A POOL AND SPACIOUS GROUNDS IN A PANORAMIC POSITION ON THE 0OGGIBONSI ROAD M EAST OF TOWN "REAKFAST AND LUNCH ARE SERVED BUT THERES NO RESTAURANT
#ONVENT &ORESTERIA DEL -ONASTERO 3AN 'IROLAMO .INE ROOMS AVAILABLE IN A CONVENT RUN BY "ENEDICTINE NUNS JUST BEHIND 0ORTA 3AN *ACOPO + PER PERSON INCLUD ING BREAKFAST HALF PRICE FOR CHILDREN
#AMPSITE )L "OSCHETTO DI 0IEMMA 3ANTA ,UCIA BPIEMMA TISCALINETIT 4HE NEAREST CAMPSITE TO TOWN WITH A BAR RESTAURANT AND POOL ,OCATED KM DOWNHILL FROM 0IAZZALE -AR TIRI DI -ONTE -AGGIO OFF THE 6OLTERRA ROAD
4HE 4OWN
\ 3AN 'IMIGNANO
3AN 'IMIGNANO IS NOT MUCH MORE THAN A VILLAGE YOU COULD WALK FROM ONE END TO THE OTHER IN lFTEEN MINUTES OR AROUND THE WALLS IN AN HOUR )T DESERVES AT LEAST A DAY HOWEVER BOTH FOR THE FRESCOES IN THE CHURCHES AND MUSEUMS AND FOR THE SURROUNDING COUNTRYSIDE n SOME OF THE LOVELIEST IN 4USCANY &ROM THE lNE SOUTH GATE 0ORTA 3AN 'IOVANNI n THE BEST PLACE TO START A TOUR n THE PALAZZO LINED 6IA 3AN 'IOVANNI LEADS TO THE TOWNS INTERLOCKING MAIN SQUARES THE 0IAZZA DELLA #ISTERNA AND 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO /N THE RIGHT OF THE STREET ABOUT A HUNDRED METRES UP IS THE FORMER CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCESCO n A 0ISAN STYLE 2OMANESQUE BUILDING CONVERTED NOW LIKE MANY OF THE PALAZZI TO A SHOP SELLING 6ERNACCIA AND OTHER LOCAL WINES )GNORE THE SCRUM AROUND THE TASTING TABLE AND WALK THROUGH TO THE LOVELY GARDEN AT THE REAR WHERE BEFORE TACKLING THE TOWN YOU CAN ENJOY AN INCOMPARABLE VIEW ACROSS THE 4USCAN HILLS 9OU ENTER THE 0IAZZA DELLA #ISTERNA THROUGH ANOTHER MAJESTIC GATEWAY THE !RCO DEI "ECCI PART OF THE ORIGINAL FORTIlCATIONS BUILT BEFORE THE TOWN EXPANDED AND ACQUIRED ITS SECOND SET OF THIRTEENTH CENTURY WALLS 4HE SQUARE IS mANKED BY AN ANARCHIC CLUSTER OF TOWERS AND PALAZZI AND IS NAMED AFTER THE PUBLIC CISTERN n STILL FUNCTIONING n AT ITS CENTRE 4HE WELL WAS EXTENDED IN ON THE ORDERS OF THE THEN 0ODESTÌ 'UCCIO DE -ALVOLI WHOSE COAT OF ARMS ADORNS ONE OF THE FACES NOTE THE ROPE CUT GROOVES WITNESS TO CENTURIES OF USE )T WAS IN THIS SQUARE AND IN OTHER STREETS WITHIN THE OLDER INNER WALLS THAT MOST OF THE LEADING FAMILIES HAD THEIR HOUSES
3AN 'IMIGNANO MUSEUM ADMISSION
4HE MOST ECONOMICAL WAY TO SEE THE TOWNS SIGHTS IS TO BUY THE COMBINED MUSEUM TICKET THAT COVERS ADMISSION TO THE -USEO #IVICO 0INACOTECA 4ORRE 'ROSSA -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO 3PEZIERIA DELLO 3PEDALE DI 3ANTA &INA 'ALLERIA DI !RTE -ODERNA AND -USEO /RNITOLOGICO 4HE COST IS +
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4O THE LEFT NORTHWEST OF THE SQUARE BESIDE AN ARCH LEADING THROUGH TO THE 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO ARE THE TWIN !RDINGHELLI TOWERS AND PALACE A 3ALVUCCI RIVAL REARS UP CLOSE BY 4HE TOWER ON THE SQUARES NORTHEAST mANK TOPPING THE 0ALA ZZO #ORTESI IS KNOWN AS THE 4ORRE DEL $IAVOLO SO NAMED ACCORDING TO LEGEND BECAUSE ITS OWNER RETURNED AFTER A LONG JOURNEY CONVINCED THAT IT HAD GROWN TALLER THE ONLY EXPLANATION FOR THE PHENOMENON HE ALLEGED BEING THAT A $)9 INCLINED DEVIL HAD BEEN BUSY DURING HIS ABSENCE !T ITS FOOT LIES THE LITTLE 6ICOLO DELL/RO SO NAMED BECAUSE IT PROBABLY ONCE HOUSED THE WORKSHOPS OF THE TOWNS GOLDSMITHS ORElCI 4HE MORE AUSTERE 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO OFF TO THE LEFT OF 0IAZZA DELLA #ISTERNA INTRODUCES FURTHER TOWERS AND CIVIC PALAZZI &ACING THE $UOMO MORE PROPERLY THE #OLLEGIATA AS 3AN 'IMIGNANO NO LONGER HAS A BISHOP THE CRENELLATED 0ALAZZO DEL 0OPOLO OR 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE THE TOWN HALL AND HOME TO THE -USEO #IVICO STANDS TO YOUR LEFT THE OLDER 0ALAZZO DEL 0ODESTÌ BEHIND YOU 4HE 0ALAZZO DEL 0OPOLO WAS BEGUN IN PROBABLY TO A PLAN BY !RNOLFO DI #AMBIO BORN IN NEARBY #OLLE DI 6AL D%LSA ALSO RESPONSIBLE FOR &LORENCES $UOMO AND 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO /DDLY THE LOWER OLDER HALF SHOWS A 3IENESE INmU ENCE WHILE THE UPPER SECTIONS HAVE A DECIDEDLY MORE &LORENTINE mAVOUR 4HE
\ 3AN 'IMIGNANO
5 6IEW FROM 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO 3AN 'IMIGNANO
PALACES 4ORRE 'ROSSA SEE P WAS COMPLETED IN SOME TIME AFTER A ORDINANCE IN WHICH THE COMUNE DECIDED THAT THE TOWNS TOWER BUILDING FRENZY HAD RUN ITS COURSE 4HE 4ORRE DELLA 2OGNOSA OF THE 0ALAZZO DEL 0ODESTÌ WHICH SURVIVES WAS SET AS THE MAXIMUM HEIGHT M FOR ANY SUBSEQUENT PRIVATE TOWER THE IDEA BEING THAT NONE SHOULD EXCEED THE TOWERS OF THE CIVIC AUTHORI TIES ,OOKING AROUND THE SKYLINE IT WOULD SEEM THAT THE RULE WAS NOT MUCH RESPECTED 4HE 3ALVUCCI CLAN FOR EXAMPLE RESPONDED AT ONE POINT BY BUILDING TWO TOWERS IN 6IA 3AN -ATTEO THE 4ORRI 3ALVUCCI EACH SHORTER THAN THE MAXI MUM BUT ARRANGED SO CLOSE TOGETHER AS TO MAKE IT CLEAR THAT THEIR COMBINED HEIGHT WOULD BE HIGHER THAN ANYTHING CONJURED UP BY THE COMUNE 4HE #OLLEGIATA 4(% 3 ) % .% 3 % () , , 4/7 . 3
\ 3AN 'IMIGNANO
4HE lRST CHURCH ON THE SITE OF THE #OLLEGIATA !PRILn/CT -ONn&RI AMn PM 3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM -ARCH .OV TO *AN -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM &EB RELIGIOUS SERVICES ONLY + WAS BEGUN IN THE TENTH CENTURY 7ORK ON THE PRESENT BUILDING WHICH IS ORIENTATED BACK TO FRONT IN RESPECT OF THE EARLIER STRUCTURE BEGAN IN THE EARLY TWELFTH CENTURY 4HE CHURCH WAS CONSECRATED BY 0OPE %UGENIUS ))) IN AND ENLARGED AND ALTERED BY 'IULIANO DA -AIANO BETWEEN AND 4HE PLAIN FACADE COULD HARDLY PROVIDE A GREATER CONTRAST WITH THE INTERIOR WHOSE FRESCOES lLL JUST ABOUT EVERY AVAILABLE SPACE THEIR BRILLIANT COLOURS SET OFF BY 0ISAN 2OMANESQUE ARCADES OF BLACK AND WHITE STRIPED MARBLE 4HE ENTRANCE IS FROM A COURTYARD TO THE LEFT OF THE CHURCH ACCESSED UNDER AN ARCH SURMOUNTED BY A STATUE OF 3T 'IMIGNANO 4HE THREE PRINCIPAL FRESCO CYCLES lLL THE RIGHT AND LEFT WALLS PLUS TWO SHORT SIDE WALLS WHICH PROTRUDE FROM THE INSIDE WALL OF THE FACADE "EGINNING ON THIS REAR WALL YOULL lND A LARGE CENTRAL FRESCO OF 3T 3EBASTIAN BY "ENOZZO 'OZZOLI PAINTED lVE OR SIX YEARS AFTER THE ARTISTS SUMPTUOUS FRESCO CYCLE IN THE 0ALAZZO -EDICI 2ICCARDI IN &LORENCE SEE P 3EBASTIAN WAS OFTEN INVOKED DURING PLAGUE EPIDEMICS n ONE HAD STRUCK 3AN 'IMIGNANO IN WHICH WAS THE REASON FOR 'OZZOLIS COMMISSION n THANKS LARGELY TO HIS POWERS OF RECOVERY HE ACTUALLY SURVIVED AN ASSAULT WITH ARROWS n THOUGH RATHER ODDLY REMAINS THE PATRON SAINT OF ARCHERS n AND WAS EVENTUALLY MARTYRED BY BEING PUMMELLED TO DEATH 4HE INSCRIPTION BELOW THE HEAVILY ARROWED SAINT WHO APPEARS BLITHELY UNAFFECTED BY THE CASUAL AND COURTLY DISPLAY OF ARCHERY READS hIN PRAISE OF THE MOST GLORIOUS ATHLETE 3EBASTIANv %ITHER SIDE OF 3EBASTIAN ON PEDESTALS ARE TWO WOODEN STATUES OF THE !RCHAN GEL 'ABRIEL AND THE -ADONNA !NNUNCIATE CARVED BY THE 3IENESE SCULPTOR *ACOPO DELLA 1UERCIA IN AND GIVEN THEIR SLIGHTLY GARISH PAINTED lNISH BY -ARTINO DI "ARTOLOMEO lVE YEARS LATER )N FRONT OF EACH STATUE ARE PILLARS PAINTED WITH FRESCOES BY 'OZZOLI OF THE !NNUNCIATION AND SAINTS !NTHONY !UGUSTINE AND "ER NARDINO 4HESE PILLARS ANCHOR THE SIDE WALLS CONTAINING THE lRST OF THE CHURCHS FRESCO CYCLES 4ADDEO DI "ARTOLOS ,AST *UDGEMENT WITH 0ARADISO DEPICTED TO THE RIGHT ,)NFERNO TO THE LEFT /NE OF THE MOST GRUESOME DEPICTIONS OF A CUSTOMARILY LURID SUBJECT THE LATTER OFFERS A NO HOLDS BARRED ILLUSTRATION OF THE 3EVEN $EADLY 3INS INCLUDING "OSCH LIKE FANTASIES ON LUST AND GLUTTONY EACH WONDERFULLY GRISLY DETAIL NOW BRIGHT AND CLEAR AFTER A RECENT RESTORATION 4HE CHURCHS OTHER CYCLES DEPICT SCENES FROM THE /LD 4ESTAMENT TWO TIERS ON THE LEFT WALL AND THE .EW 4ESTAMENT TWO TIERS ON THE RIGHT IN THE LUNETTES ABOVE SCENES OF THE #REATION ABOVE THE /LD 4ESTAMENT EPISODES ARE PARALLELED ACROSS THE CHURCH BY EPISODES FROM THE .ATIVITY 3OMEWHAT SURPRISINGLY THE /LD 4ESTAMENT AND #REATION SCENES IN ALL WHOSE VISION SEEMS ENTIRELY MEDIEVAL WERE PAINTED LATER BETWEEN AND #REATED BY "ARTOLO DI
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&REDI THEY REmECT THE INmUENCE OF ,ORENZETTIS 'OOD AND "AD 'OVERNMENT IN 3IENA IN THEIR DELIGHT IN GENRE DETAIL FORMING AN ESSENTIALLY HUMAN NARRATIVE !BRAHAM AND ,OT LEADING THEIR mOCK TOWARDS #ANAAN FOR EXAMPLE IS A 4USCAN FARM ING SCENE WITH APPROPRIATE LANDSCAPE 4HEY ARE ALSO QUIRKILY NATURALISTIC n THERE ARE FEW ODDER FRESCOES THAN THAT OF THE $RUNKENNESS OF .OAH EXPOSING A PROMI NENT PENIS IN HIS STUPOR .OAH IS TRADITIONALLY CONSIDERED TO HAVE BEEN THE lRST TO PROMOTE AGRICULTURE AND VITICULTURE AND n MORE TO THE POINT n THE lRST TO HAVE ABUSED THE PRODUCTS OF THE VINE 4HE CYCLE WHICH IS READ LEFT TO RIGHT TOP TO BOTTOM FOLLOWS THE STORY OF THE &LOOD WITH THOSE OF !BRAHAM AND ,OT THEIR TRIP TO #ANAAN *OSEPH HIS DREAM BEING LET DOWN THE WELL HAVING HIS BROTHERS ARRESTED AND BEING RECOGNIZED BY THEM -OSES CHANGING A STICK INTO A SERPENT BEFORE THE 0HAROAH THE 2ED 3EA -OUNT 3INAI AND *OB TEMPTATION THE DEVIL KILLING HIS HERDS AND DESTROY ING HIS HOUSE THANKING 'OD AND BEING CONSOLED BY FRIENDS !BOVE NOTE THE FRESCO PERHAPS THE MOST BEAUTIFUL OF THE ENTIRE CYCLE DEPICTING THE #REATION OF %VE FOURTH LUNETTE FROM THE LEFT IN WHICH %VE EMERGES FROM THE RIB OF THE SLEEPING !DAM 4HE AUTHORSHIP OF THE .EW 4ESTAMENT SCENES BEGUN IS DISPUTED WITH SOME HISTORIANS NOW ATTRIBUTING THEM TO ,IPPO -EMMI COLLABORATOR AND BROTHER IN LAW OF 3IMONE -ARTINI OR TO A MEMBER OF -EMMIS WORKSHOP 4RA DITIONALLY THE ATTRIBUTION IS TO "ARNA DI 3IENA ANOTHER FOLLOWER OF -ARTINI POS SIBLY A PUPIL WHO IS SUPPOSED TO HAVE DIED IN A FALL FROM THE SCAFFOLDING WHILE AT WORK HERE IN THE S 7HATEVER THE SCENES OF #HRISTS ,IFE AND THE 0ASSION MARK A DISTINCT DEPARTURE FROM -ARTINIS STYLE WITH THEIR INTEREST IN EMOTIONAL EXPRESSION )N 4HE +ISS OF *UDAS THE FOCUS OF EYES IS STARTLINGLY IMMEDIATE AS IS THE ABSORPTION OF ALL THE lGURES IN THE ACTION n 3T 0ETER THRUSTING INTO THE FORE GROUND WITH HIS ASSAULT ON THE 2OMAN SOLDIER WHILE THE OTHER DISCIPLES GATHER THEIR CLOAKS AND mEE 4HE SAME DRAMATIC VISION COMES THROUGH IN #HRIST #ARRYING THE #ROSS AND THE DARK DEALINGS OF *UDAS !CCEPTING THE 0IECES OF 3ILVER /NE OF THE MOST DRAMATIC SCENES OF ALL IS THE 2ESURRECTION OF ,AZARUS IN WHICH A DUMBSTRUCK CROWD WITNESSES THE REMOVAL OF A DOOR TO REVEAL THE LIVING ,AZARUS IN THE WIND ING BANDAGES OF BURIAL #APPELLA DI 3ANTA &INA
-ANY OF THE CHAPELS OF THE CATHEDRAL WERE REMODELLED BETWEEN AND AS PART OF 'IULIANO DA -AIANOS RENOVATION OF THE CHURCH WORK WHICH BROUGHT 3AN 'IMIGNANO MORE FULLY INTO THE &LORENTINE 2ENAISSANCE ORBIT 4HE #AP PELLA DI 3AN 'IMIGNANO TO THE LEFT OF THE HIGH ALTAR FEATURES AN ALTAR BY 'IULIANOS BROTHER "ENEDETTO DA -AIANO PARTLY CONSTRUCTED FROM FRAGMENTS OF AN EARLIER WORK 4HE CIBORIUM ATOP THE HIGH ALTAR IS ALSO BY "ENEDETTO THOUGH BOTH BROTHERS RESERVED THEIR BEST WORK FOR THE #APPELLA DI 3ANTA &INA A 2ENAISSANCE MASTERPIECE LOCATED AT THE TOP OF THE RIGHT SOUTH AISLE 'IULIANO DESIGNED THE CHAPEL n WHILE "ENEDETTO DESIGNED ITS ALTAR MARBLE SHRINE AND BAS RELIEFS THOUGH THE MOST EYE CATCHING PART OF THE ENSEM BLE WHICH IS DEDICATED TO 3AN 'IMIGNANOS PATRON SAINT IS A PAIR OF FRESCOES IN OPPOSING LUNETTES BY $OMENICO 'HIRLANDAIO 3T &INA THE SUBJECT OF THE FRESCOES AND THE FRIEZE OF THE SHRINE WAS BORN IN 3AN 'IMIGNANO IN AND STRUCK BY A DREADFUL AND INCURABLE DISEASE AT THE AGE OF 3HE GAVE HERSELF IMMEDIATELY TO 'OD REPENTED HER SINS THE WORST SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN ACCEPTING AN ORANGE FROM A BOY AND INSISTED ON SPENDING THE AGONIZED lVE YEARS UNTIL HER DEATH LYING ON A PLANK ON THE mOOR THE IDEA BEING THAT SHE WOULD BE BROUGHT CLOSER TO #HRIST THROUGH INCREASED SUFFERING !S A RESULT OF HER POSITION AND HER COMPLETE PARALYSIS DURING HER lNAL DAYS SHE
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WAS TORMENTED AMONG OTHER THINGS BY MICE WHICH SHE WAS UNABLE TO SCARE AWAY 4HE BOARD ON HER DEATH WAS FOUND TO BE COVERED IN mOWERS "OTH DETAILS APPEAR IN THE FRESCO OF THE RIGHT LUNETTE WHICH DEPICTS THE !NNOUNCEMENT OF $EATH THE TIME OF &INAS DEMISE HAVING BEEN VOUCHSAFED TO HER BY 3T 'REGORY IN A VISION NOTICE THE mOWER COVERED BOARD AND THE WONDERFULLY UGLY MOUSE IN THE SEMI DARKNESS TO THE REAR OF THE COMPOSITION 4HE FRESCO IN THE OPPOSITE LEFT LUNETTE THE &UNERAL OF 3T &INA IS MORE ACCOMPLISHED n IT IS SAID TO HAVE GREATLY IMPRESSED 2APHAEL n AND SHOWS THE SAINT ON HER DEATHBED WITH THE TOWERS OF 3AN 'IMIGNANO IN THE BACKGROUND !LSO DEPICTED ARE THREE MIRACLES ASSOCIATED WITH &INA THE RESTORATION OF A BLIND CHOIRBOYS SIGHT THE CURING OF HER NURSES PARALYSED HAND AND THE RINGING OF 3AN 'IMIGNANOS BELLS BY ANGELS ON THE SAINTS DEATH 'HIRLANDAIO LEFT A SELF PORTRAIT IN THE lGURE BEHIND THE BISHOP SAYING -ASS AS WELL AS PORTRAITS IN THE lGURES TO EITHER SIDE OF $AVIDE HIS BROTHER AND 3EBAS TIANO -AINARDI HIS BROTHER IN LAW "OTH PROBABLY ASSISTED 'HIRLANDAIO WITH THE FRESCOES AS THEY DID WITH HIS MASTERPIECE THE FRESCO CYCLE IN THE SANCTUARY OF 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA IN &LORENCE SEE P 4HE FRESCOS COMPOSITION WITH THE DEAD SAINT SURROUNDED BY ONLOOKERS OWES MUCH TO "ENOZZO 'OZZOLIS ALMOST IDENTICAL SCENE PAINTED TEN YEARS EARLIER IN 3ANT!GOSTINO SEE P WHICH IN TURN WAS INmUENCED BY 'IOTTOS ICONOCLASTIC TREATMENT OF THE &UNERAL OF 3T &RANCIS IN 3ANTA #ROCE IN &LORENCE SEE P 4HE "APTISTERY AND -USEO D!RTE 3ACRA
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!CCESSED BY A LOGGIA IN THE SAME COURTYARD AS THE ENTRANCE TO THE #OLLEGIATA IS THE "APTISTERY FRESCOED WITH AN !NNUNCIATION BY 'HIRLANDAIO AND 3EBASTIANO -AINARDI 4HE -USEO D!RTE 3ACRA DAILY AMnPM .OVn -ARCH CLOSES PM CLOSED *AN + IS HOUSED IN THE OLD 2ECTORS 0ALACE OFF TO THE LEFT OF THE COURT IN 0IAZZA 0ECORI WHICH IS A FAVOURITE FOR BUSKING MUSICIANS IN SUMMER )TS HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDE A -ADONNA AND #HILD BY "ARTOLO DI &REDI A SUPERB WOODEN #RUCIlX PERHAPS FROM AS EARLY AS THE ELEVENTH CENTURY SEVERAL GLORIOUS ILLUMINATED CHOIR BOOKS AND A MARBLE BUST OF /NOFRIO DI 0IETRO BY "ENEDETTO DA -AIANO A WORK COMMISSIONED BY 3AN 'IMIGNANOS COMUNE TO HONOUR $I 0IETRO AN EMINENT LOCAL SCHOLAR 4HE -USEO #IVICO AND 0INACOTECA
4HE 0ALAZZO DEL 0OPOLO THE OTHER KEY COMPONENT OF THE 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO IS PARTLY GIVEN OVER TO COUNCIL OFlCES BUT MOST OF THE BUILDING IS DEVOTED TO THE -USEO #IVICO HOME TO AN OUTSTANDING MISCELLANY OF PAINTINGS AND TO THE 4ORRE 'ROSSA THE ONLY ONE OF 3AN 'IMIGNANOS TOWERS WHICH YOU CAN CLIMB BOTH DAILY -ARCHn/CT AMnPM .OVn&EB AMnPM + JOINT TICKET SEE P /N ENTERING THE PALAZZO FROM THE SQUARE YOU lND YOURSELF WITHIN A COURTYARD BUILT IN DURING EXTENSION WORK ON THE PALACE )TS WELL INCORPORATES FRAGMENTS REMOVED FROM LOCAL %TRUSCAN TOMBS WHILE THE STONE CRESTS AROUND THE WALLS REPRESENT THE COATS OF ARMS OF VARIOUS MEDIEVAL MAGISTRATES ! LOGGIA OPENS ON THE RIGHT FROM WHICH JUSTICE AND PUBLIC DECREES WERE OCCASIONALLY PROCLAIMED HENCE THE SUBJECT MATTER OF ITS THREE FRESCOES ALL OF WHICH MAKE AN ALLUSION TO JUSTICE THE LEFT WALL FEATURES AN ALLEGORY BY 3ODOMA DEPICTING A THRONED MAGISTRATE mANKED BY THE lGURES OF $ISHONESTY 0RUDENCE AND 4RUTH IN FRONT IS A -ADONNA AND #HILD BY 4ADDEO DI "ARTOLO THE ARTIST RESPONSIBLE FOR THE #OLLEGIATAS ,AST *UDGEMENT IN WHICH THE -ADONNA IS mANKED BY SAINTS 'IMIGNANO AND 'REGORY n THE #HILD MEANWHILE HOLDS A BIBLICAL INSCRIPTION RECOMMENDING SAGACITY IN THE ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE THE RIGHT WALL FEATURES A
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CHIAROSCURO BY 3ODOMA DEPICTING 3T )VO A "RETON LAWYER WHOSE PRO BONO LEGAL WORK AMONG THE POOR WIDOWED AND ORPHANED SAW HIM CANONIZED IN AND MADE PATRON SAINT OF LAWYERS JURISTS AND MAGISTRATES &ROM THE COURTYARD STAIRS LEAD TO A PICTURESQUE LITTLE BALCONY AND THE CRAMPED TICKET OFlCE 4HE lRST OF THE MUSEUMS ROOMS AND THE PALAZZOS PUBLIC CHAMBERS FRESCOED WITH HUNTING AND TOURNAMENT SCENES IS KNOWN AS THE 3ALA DEL #ON SIGLIO OR 3ALA DI $ANTE n THE POET VISITED AS &LORENCES AMBASSADOR TO THE TOWN IN MAKING A PLEA HERE FOR 'UELPH UNITY -OST OF THE PAINTINGS DISPLAYED ARE FOURTEENTH CENTURY WORKS 3IENESE IN ORIGIN OR INSPIRATION AND EXECUTED IN THE YEARS BEFORE 3AN 'IMIGNANO PASSED UNDER &LORENTINE CONTROL AND INmUENCE 4HE ROOMS HIGHLIGHT IS ,IPPO -EMMIS -AESTÌ HIS lNEST WORK CLOSELY MODELLED ON 3IMONE -ARTINIS PAINTING ON AN IDENTICAL THEME COMPLETED TWO YEARS PREVIOUSLY IN 3IENAS 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO SEE P 3AN 'IMIGNANOS 0ODESTÌ AT THE TIME -INO DE 4OLOMEI IS SHOWN KNEELING AT THE -ADONNAS FEET LOOKED DOWN ON BY A MULTITUDE OF SAINTS ARRANGED IN DISTINCT ROWS 4HE FRESCO WAS ENLARGED AT A LATER DATE "ENOZZO 'OZZOLI HAVING ADDED THE TWO SAINTS AT THE EXTREME RIGHT AND LEFT IN 4HE FRESCO ON THE END WALL SHOWS 3AN 'IMIGNANOS POPULATION SWEARING ALLEGIANCE TO #HARLES OF !NJOU &OUR SMALLER ROOMS ON THIS mOOR ARE OFTEN GIVEN OVER TO TEMPORARY EXHIBI TIONS USUALLY EASILY IGNORED IN FAVOUR OF THE MAIN 0INACOTECA OR ART GALLERY ON THE NEXT mOOR !RRANGED IN FOUR ROOMS THE lNEST PICTURES ARE IN THE LARGE SALON IMMEDIATELY ON THE RIGHT AT THE TOP OF THE STAIRS /N THE WALL ON THE RIGHT AS YOU ENTER IS A SUPERB PAINTED #RUCIlX n BY #OPPO DI -ARCOVALDO A &LORENTINE ARTIST n BELIEVED TO HAVE BEEN THE TEACHER OF #IMABUE n CAPTURED BY THE 3IENESE AT THE "ATTLE OF -ONTAPERTI IN 4HIS WORK RECKONED ONE OF THE MASTERPIECES OF EARLY 4USCAN PAINTING WAS PROBABLY ALSO PAINTED WHILE THE ARTIST WAS IN hCAPTIVITYv )TS A FAR MORE COMPLEX PAINTING THAN IT lRST APPEARS ITS APEX BEING CROWNED BY PANELS OF THE !SSUMPTION OF THE 6IRGIN AND #HRIST 0AN TOCRATOR 4HE SIMILAR n BUT EIGHT METRE HIGH n #HRIST ON &LORENCES BAPTISTERY CEILING IS ATTRIBUTED TO -ARCOVALDO 0ANELS NEXT TO EACH OF #HRISTS HANDS DEPICT THE -ADONNA AND 3T *OHN AND THE THREE -ARYS #HRISTS BODY IS mANKED BY SIX SCENES FROM THE 0ASSION THE +ISS OF *UDAS &LAGELLATION #RUCIlXION #HRIST AND 0ILATE THE #ROWN OF 4HORNS AND THE $EPOSITION /THER OUTSTANDING PICTURES IN THE ROOM INCLUDE TWO EARLY TONDI OF THE !NNUNCIATION n BY &ILIPPINO ,IPPI ON THE OPPOSITE END WALL WITH THE -ADONNA PORTRAYED SEPARATELY IN ONE THE !RCHANGEL 'ABRIEL IN THE OTHER BOTH ARE BEAUTIFULLY OFFSET BY THEIR VAST ORIGINAL FRAMES "ETWEEN THEM IS 0INTURIC CHIOS -ADONNA %NTHRONED WITH 33 'REGORY AND "ENEDICT COMMISSIONED BY THE ABBEY OF -ONTE /LIVETO -AGGIORE SEE P ONE OF THE LAST WORKS AND MASTERPIECES OF THIS ARTIST %QUALLY ARRESTING ARE TWO CONTRASTING PAINTINGS OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 3AINTS BY "ENOZZO 'OZZOLI BOTH PAINTED IN 4HE MORE INTERESTING OF THE TWO SHOWS THE -ADONNA WITH *OHN THE "APTIST -ARY -AGDALENE 3T !UGUSTINE AND 3T -ARTHA THE LAST THE SISTER OF ,AZARUS BEING PARTICULARLY VENERATED IN 4USCANY AS SHE IS THE PATRON SAINT OF BUILDERS AND n EVEN MORE SIGNIlCANTLY n OF COOKS 4HE LARGER OF THE TWO ROOMS OFF TO THE RIGHT CONTAINS LESSER BUT NO LESS INTER ESTING PAINTINGS ,OOK OUT IN PARTICULAR FOR THE TRIPTYCH BY 4ADDEO DI "ARTOLO DEPICTING 3CENES FROM THE ,IFE OF 3T 'IMIGNANO THE lRST OF THREE PANEL PAINTINGS IN THIS AND THE ADJOINING ROOM DEVOTED TO THE LIVES OF THE SAINTS )T WAS PAINTED WHEN 4ADDEO WAS WORKING ON THE ,AST *UDGEMENT FRESCOES IN THE #OLLEGIATA WHERE THE PAINTING WAS ORIGINALLY INSTALLED ABOVE THE HIGH ALTAR 4HE LARGE CENTRAL PANEL WHICH SHOWS THE SAINT WITH 3AN 'IMIGNANO ON HIS LAP IS mANKED ON EACH SIDE WITH VIGNETTES FROM HIS LIFE 4HE MOST EXTRAORDINARY IS ONE
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OF THE FOUR SCENES ON THE RIGHT IN WHICH THE SAINT IS DISTURBED WHILE PRAYING BY WHAT IS EUPHEMISTICALLY DESCRIBED AS AN URGENT hBISOGNOv OR NEED n IN OTHER WORDS A DESPERATE CALL OF NATURE )N ANSWERING THE CALL HE lNDS HIMSELF MET BY THE $EVIL WHOM HE CAUSES TO VANISH BY MAKING THE SIGN OF THE #ROSS 4HE OTHER PANELS ON THE RIGHT WHICH DESCRIBE THE SAINTS EXORCISM OF THE "YZANTINE EMPERORS DAUGHTER SHOW 'IMIGNANO BEING BORNE TO #ONSTANTINOPLE HIS CALM ING OF A STORM DURING THE VOYAGE AND THE EVENTUAL EXORCISM OF THE PRINCESS 4HE FOUR PANELS ON THE LEFT DEPICT 3T 3EVERUS OFlCIATING AT 'IMIGNANOS BURIAL SAVING 3AN 'IMIGNANO FROM !TTILA THE (UN THE SAINT IS SEEN REMONSTRATING VIGOROUSLY WITH !TTILA AND PREVENTING A DOWNPOUR OF RAIN SOAKING HIS FOLLOW ERS IN A LEAKY CHURCH !LSO OF INTEREST ARE 3CENES FROM THE ,IFE OF 3T "ARTHOLOMEW BY ,ORENZO DI .ICCOLÛ WHOSE PANELS INCLUDE THE ATTEMPT TO MARTYR THE SAINT BY mAYING HIM ALIVE TOP RIGHT n THE OPERATION IS SHOWN IN GRAPHIC DETAIL n AND HIS SUB SEQUENT BEHEADING IN WHICH BLOODY STRIPS OF SKIN HANGING FROM THE SAINTS BODY HAMPER THE WORK OF THE EXASPERATED EXECUTIONERS 4HE SAME ARTIST WAS RESPONSIBLE FOR THE DOUBLE SIDED RELIQUARY TABERNACLE SHOWING 3T &INA AND 3T 'REGORY AND %IGHT 3CENES FROM THE ,IFE OF 3T &INA 3AN 'IMIGNANOS PATRON SAINT SEE P &INA IS SHOWN HOLDING 3AN 'IMIGNANO IN ONE HAND AND A BUNCH OF VIOLETS n A SYMBOL OF HUMILITY n IN THE OTHER 4HE SCENES ON ONE FACE SHOW THE MOTHER OF 3T &INA LOOKING AFTER HER DAUGHTER WITH A RELATIVE DESPERATELY TRYING TO BEAT OFF HORDES OF MICE AND THE $EVIL CASTING &INAS MOTHER DOWN SOME STAIRS TO NO ILL EFFECT 3AN 'IMIGNANOS CITIZENS IN PROCESSION PAYING HOMAGE TO THE DEAD SAINT NOTE &INAS mOWER COVERED BOARD AND THE FUNERAL PROCESSION DURING WHICH &INAS NURSE "ELDIA MIRACU LOUSLY RECOVERED THE USE OF HER PARALYSED HAND 4HE PANELS ON THE OTHER FACE SHOW &INA MIRACULOUSLY EXTINGUISHING A lRE SAVING A BOAT IN A STORM SAVING A BUILDER FALLING FROM A BUILDING AND EXORCISING A MAN POSSESSED BY THE $EVIL 0ERHAPS THE GALLERYS MOST FASCINATING AND ENJOYABLE PAINTINGS THOUGH ARE THE FRESCOES OF WEDDING SCENES HIDDEN AWAY IN A SMALL ROOM OFF THE STAIRS STRAIGHT AHEAD ON EXITING THE MAIN SALON 5NIQUE IN THEIR SUBJECT MATTER THEY SHOW A TOURNAMENT WHERE THE WIFE RIDES ON HER HUSBANDS BACK FOLLOWED BY THE LOVERS TAKING A SHARED BATH AND CLIMBING INTO BED THE MAN REMARK ABLY MANAGES TO KEEP ON THE SAME RED HAT THROUGH ALL THREE OPERATIONS 3OME COMMENTATORS HOWEVER HAVE SEEN THE PICTURES IN A LESS JOLLY LIGHT DESCRIBING THEM AS ALLEGORICAL SCENES DESIGNED TO WARN MEN OF THE WILES OF WOMEN 4HEY WERE COMPLETED IN THE S BY -EMMO DI &ILIPPUCCIO THE FATHER OF ,IPPO -EMMI WHO SINCE HAD BEEN WORKING AS A MORE OR LESS OFlCIAL PAINTER FOR THE COMUNE 4HE 2OCCA
*UST BEHIND THE 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO A SIGNPOSTED LANE LEADS TO THE 2OCCA THE OLD FORTRESS WITH ITS ONE SURVIVING TOWER )T WAS BUILT IN TO &LORENTINE ORDERS BUT AT LOCAL EXPENSE hIN ORDER TO REMOVE EVERY CAUSE OF EVIL THINKING FROM THE INHABITANTSv ! COUPLE OF CENTURIES LATER ITS PURPOSE PRESUMABLY FULlLLED IT WAS DISMANTLED BY #OSIMO ) .OWADAYS ITS METRE PERIMETER ENCLOSES AN ORCHARD LIKE PUBLIC GARDEN WITH lGS OLIVES AND A WELL IN THE MIDDLE &ROM THE RAMPARTS THERE ARE SUPERB VIEWS OVER THE COUNTRYSIDE ! BLOCK SOUTH OF THE 2OCCA IN 6IA 1UERCECCHIO A -USEO /RNITOLOGICO !PRILn3EPT AMnPM + OR WITH COMBINED TICKET HAS BEEN CREATED FROM THE STUFFED BIRD COLLECTIONS OF SOME LOCAL WORTHY IN THE DECONSECRATED CHURCH NEAR THE 0ORTA 1UERCECCHIO
7ALKS FROM 3AN 'IMIGNANO 3AN 'IMIGNANOS POSITION WITH THE BEST OF 4USCAN COUNTRYSIDE SPREAD BELOW MAY WELL INSPIRE THE IDEA OF WALKING )F YOU PLAN ANYTHING MORE THAN A RAMBLE ITS WORTH CALLING IN AT THE 5FlCIO 4ECNICO IN THE TOWN HALL TO BUY COPIES OF THE LOCAL )'- CON TOUR MAPS ! GOOD CIRCULAR WALK WHICH WOULD TAKE MOST OF THE DAY IS TO STRIKE DIRECTLY WEST INTO THE HILLS TO 0OGGIO !TTENDI FOLLOW THE RIDGE SOUTH TO 3AN $ONATO AND LOOP BACK TO 3AN 'IMIGNANO VIA -ONTAUTO AND 3ANTA ,UCIA !NOTHER POSSIBILITY IS TO WALK TO #OLLE DI 6AL D%LSA ABOUT HR FOLLOW THE 6OLTERRA ROAD OUT OF TOWN TURN IMMEDIATELY LEFT TO -ONTEOLIVETO AND 3ANTA ,UCIA AND THEN MAKE FOR THE VILLAGES OF -ONTI AND "ORGATELLO 7ITH AN EARLY START YOU COULD ALSO WALK TO 6OLTERRA nHR MAKE INITIALLY FOR 3AN $ONATO THEN CUT ACROSS COUNTRY PAST #ASTELVÏCCHIO NOW A FARM THE VILLA OF 0IGNANO AND -ONTE 6OLTRÉIO
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(EADING AWAY FROM THE CENTRAL SQUARES AND 6IA 3AN 'IOVANNI THE CROWDS QUICKLY THIN AWAY *UST EAST OF 0IAZZA DELLA #ISTERNA ON 6IA DI #ASTELLO IS THE HIGHLY PUBLICIZED -USEO DELLA 4ORTURA DAILY AMnMIDNIGHT + A SHOCK ING COLLECTION OF ORIGINAL MEDIEVAL TORTURE INSTRUMENTS &ARTHER DOWN 6IA DI #ASTELLO IS THE 2OMANESQUE 3AN ,ORENZO IN 0ONTE CLOSED TO THE PUB LIC AT TIME OF WRITING WHOSE BRICK BUILT INTERIOR IS ALMOST COMPLETELY COVERED WITH DRAMATIC FRESCOES BY THE LITTLE KNOWN BUT ACCOMPLISHED &LORENTINE #ENNI DI &RANCESCO 4HE DRAMATIC FRAGMENTS INCLUDE A ,AST *UDGEMENT ON THE LEFT WALL AND IN THE PRESBYTERY THE lGURES OF THE !POSTLES #HRIST AND THE 6IRGIN WITH !NGELS AND 3CENES FROM THE ,IFE OF 3T "ENEDICT #ENNI WAS ALSO RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RESTORED FRESCOES IN THE ADJOINING ORATORY NOTABLY THE ENTRANCE WALLS 3T ,AWRENCE AND 3AINTS AND -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH !NGELS IN WHICH THE -ADONNAS HEAD n AN EARLIER WORK n HAS BEEN ATTRIBUTED TO 3IMONE -ARTINI !T THE END OF THE STREET A RURAL LANE WINDS DOWN TO THE WALLS A PUBLIC WELL HOUSE n THE &ONTI n AND OPEN COUNTRYSIDE 4HE LITTLE 0ISAN 2OMANESQUE CHURCH HERE 3AN )ACOPO HAS A PAINTING OF 3T *AMES BY 0IER &RANCESCO &IORENTINO 6IA 3AN -ATTEO LEADS NORTH FROM 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO ONE OF THE TOWNS GRANDEST AND BEST PRESERVED STREETS WITH QUIET LITTLE ALLEYWAYS BRANCHING OFF DOWN TO THE WALLS 0ASSING A COUPLE OF MIGHTY TOWER HOUSES THE STREET ENDS AT THE 0ORTA 3AN -ATTEO JUST INSIDE WHICH IN A CORNER OF THE WALLS IS THE #ONVENTO DI 3ANT!GOSTINO
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4O 3AN ,ORENZO IN 0ONTE
3ANT!GOSTINO
!FTER THE #OLLEGIATA 3ANT!GOSTINO DAILY !PRILn/CT AMnNOON nPM .OVn-ARCH AMnNOON nPM IS THE MOST IMPORTANT CHURCH IN 3AN 'IMIG NANO A LARGE HALL LIKE THIRTEENTH CENTURY STRUCTURE WITH SEVERAL lNE PAINTINGS AN IMPRESSIVE 2ENAISSANCE ALTAR AND AN OUTSTANDING RESTORED FRESCO CYCLE BY "ENOZZO 'OZZOLI ON THE ,IFE OF 3T !UGUSTINE /N THE REAR WALL IMMEDIATELY ON THE LEFT AS YOU ENTER BY THE CHURCHS SIDE DOOR IS THE #APPELLA DI 3AN "ARTOLO &RAMED BY A DRAPED MARBLE CURTAIN IT HOUSES THE REMAINS OF 3T "ARTOLO n YET ANOTHER OF 3AN 'IMIGNANOS PATRON SAINTS "ORN NEAR 0ISA HE BECAME A LAY &RANCISCAN BUT AT CONTRACTED LEPROSY AND WAS FORCED TO RETIRE TO A LEPER COLONY WHERE HE DIED TWENTY YEARS LATER !CCORDING TO LEGEND WHILE HE WAS IN THE COLONY SEVERAL OF HIS LEPROUS TOES CAME OFF IN THE HANDS OF A NUN WHO WAS WASHING HIS FEET -ORTIlED WITH EMBARRASSMENT HE TOOK THE LOOSE TOES AND MIRACULOUSLY REATTACHED THEM TO
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\ 3AN 'IMIGNANO
HIS FOOT 4HIS IS ONE OF THREE MIRACLES DEPICTED IN THE PREDELLA RELIEFS ON THE MAGNIlCENT ALTAR BY "ENEDETTO DA -AIANO 4HE THREE lGURES ABOVE ARE THE 4HEOLOGICAL 6IRTUES WHILE THE FRESCOES TO THE LEFT BY 3EBASTIANO -AINARDI DEPICT SAINTS ,UCY .ICHOLAS OF "ARI AND 'IMIGNANO WHO HOLDS THE TOWN OF 3AN 'IMIGNANO IN HIS ARMS /N THE RIGHT SOUTH WALL ARE SEVERAL STRIKING FRESCOES AMONG THEM A -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH %IGHT 3AINTS BY 0IER &RANCESCO &IORENTINO AND A lGURE OF #HRIST WITH THE 3YMBOLS OF THE 0ASSION BY "ARTOLO DI &REDI AUTHOR OF THE #OLLEGIA TAS /LD 4ESTAMENT CYCLE WHO WAS ALSO RESPONSIBLE FOR THE FRESCOES ON THE ,IFE OF THE 6IRGIN ON THE SIDE WALLS OF THE CHAPEL TO THE RIGHT OF THE HIGH ALTAR 4HE CHAPELS STRIKING ALTARPIECE THE .ATIVITY OF THE 6IRGIN IS BY 6INCENZO 4AMENGI n AN OTHERWISE LITTLE KNOWN LOCAL ARTIST !LL PAINTINGS IN THE CHURCH HOWEVER PALE BESIDE THOSE ON THE WALLS AROUND THE HIGH ALTAR A SEVENTEEN PANEL FRESCO CYCLE ON THE ,IFE OF 3T !UGUSTINE n BY "ENOZZO 'OZZOLI PICTURES WHICH PROVIDE A SUPERB RECORD OF LIFE IN 2ENAISSANCE )TALY PARTICULARLY THE CITY LIFE OF &LORENCE WHICH FORMS A BACKDROP TO MANY OF THE SCENES 2EAD FROM LOW DOWN ON THE LEFT THE lRST PANELS DEPICT THE SAINT n WHO WAS BORN IN IN WHAT IS NOW 4UNISIA n BEING TAKEN TO SCHOOL BY HIS PARENTS AND mOGGED BY HIS TEACHER STUDYING GRAMMAR AT #ARTHAGE UNIVERSITY AND CROSSING THE SEA TO )TALY 4HE NEXT RECOUNT HIS ACADEMIC CAREER TEACHING PHILOSOPHY AND RHETORIC IN 2OME AND -ILAN n 'OZZOLI DEPICTS THE JOURNEY BETWEEN THE CITIES AS A MARVELLOUSLY RICH PROCESSION n AND BEING RECEIVED BY THE %MPEROR 4HEODOSIUS 4HEN COMES THE TURNING POINT IN HIS LIFE WHEN HE LISTENS TO THE PREACHING OF 3T !MBROSE AND THEN WHILE READING 3T 0AULS %PISTLE TO THE 2OMANS HEARS A CHILDS VOICE EXTOLLING HIM h4OLLE LEGEv TAKE AND READ !FTER THIS !UGUSTINE WAS BAPTIZED RETURNED TO 4UNISIA TO FORM A MONASTIC COMMUNITY AND WAS SUBSEQUENTLY MADE BISHOP OF (IPPO (E WAS ONE OF THE FATHERS OF THE EARLY #HRISTIAN #HURCH PRO DUCING TWO OF ITS FUNDAMENTAL GREAT THEOLOGICAL WORKS n THE #OMMENTARIES AND THE #ITY OF 'OD 'OZZOLI DEPICTS JUST A FEW CRUCIAL SCENES !UGUSTINE MEETING THE CHILD WHOSE VOICE HE HAD HEARD AND WHO NOW REBUKED HIM FOR TRYING TO PEN ETRATE THE MYSTERIES OF THE 4RINITY THE DEATH OF HIS MOTHER 3T -ONICA BLESSING THE PEOPLE AS BISHOP CONFUTING A HERETIC HAVING A VISION OF 3T *EROME IN 0ARADISE AND HIS DEATH A SCENE WHICH ALMOST EXACTLY PRElGURES 'HIRLANDAIOS DEPICTION OF THE DEATH OF 3T &INA IN THE #OLLEGIATA 'OZZOLI STARTED OUT WITH CONSIDERABLE PROMISE WORKING AS ASSISTANT TO &RA !NGELICO AT THE 6ATICAN THEN LANDING THE CONTRACT FOR THE 0ALAZZO -EDICI CHAPEL IN &LORENCE 4HESE FRESCOES WERE PAINTED LATE IN LIFE AFTER A FRUSTRATING CAREER SPENT ON MINOR COMMISSIONS AROUND THE 4USCAN COUNTRYSIDE 4HE WONDERFUL NARRATIVE FRESHNESS OF THE CYCLE PROMPTED "ERNARD "ERENSON TO CHARACTERIZE HIM AS hA &RA !NGELICO WHO HAD FORGOTTEN HEAVEN AND BECOME ENAMOURED OF THE EARTH AND THE SPRING TIMEv 'IVEN THE RICHNESS OF THE CYCLE ITS REMARKABLE THAT THE HIGH ALTARS #ORONA TION OF THE 6IRGIN MANAGES TO HOLD ITS OWN )TS BY 0IERO DEL 0OLLAIUOLO BROTHER AND COLLABORATOR OF THE MORE FAMOUS !NTONIO DEL 0OLLAIUOLO -OVING BACK DOWN THE LEFT NORTH WALL YOU COME TO A DOOR LEADING TO THE SACRISTY AND 2ENAISSANCE CLOISTER AND ANOTHER FRESCO BY 3EBASTIANO -AINARDI OF 3AN 'IMIGNANO "LESSING 4HREE $IGNITARIES 4HE EFlGY ABOVE IS OF &RA $OMENICO 3TRAMBI THE PATRON WHO COMMISSIONED THE 'OZZOLI FRESCOES AND 0OLLAIUOLO ALTARPIECE 4HE MARBLE RELIEFS BEYOND SHOWING FOUR HALF lGURES OF BISH OPS ARE BELIEVED TO BE PART OF THE ORIGINAL SHRINE TO 3T "ARTOLO AND ARE ATTRIB UTED TO 4INO DA #AMAINO 4HE FRESCO FRAGMENT BEYOND A -ADONNA BY ,IPPO -EMMI IS OVERSHADOWED BY A LARGE FRESCO OF 3T 3EBASTIAN PAINTED BY 'OZZOLI IN THE YEAR IN WHICH PLAGUE RAVAGED 3AN 'IMIGNANO
4HE -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO
*UST SOUTH OF 3ANT!GOSTINO IS THE FORMER CONVENT OF 3ANTA #HIARA NOW HOME TO THE INTERESTING -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO !PRILn$EC DAILY AMnPM + JOINT TICKET SEE P WHICH BOASTS A LARGE COLLECTION OF LOCAL lNDS AND DETAILS THE HISTORY OF THE AREA FROM THE %TRUSCANS TO THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY )N THE SAME COMPLEX IS A REPRODUCTION OF THE 3PEZIERIA DELLO 3PEDALE DI 3ANTA &INA ONE OF 4USCANYS OLDEST PHARMACIES EXHIBITING ALL SORTS OF EXOTIC HERBAL REMEDIES AND OTHER SIXTEENTH CENTURY MEDICINAL CONCOCTIONS 5PSTAIRS IS THE 'ALLERIA D!RTE -ODERNA E #ONTEMPORANEA h2AFFAELE DE 'RADAv SHOWING WORK BY NINETEENTH AND TWENTIETH CENTURY 4USCAN ARTISTS AND TEMPORARY EXHIBITS
%ATING AND DRINKING
DEL $UOMO %XCELLENT HAMS AND SALAMI PLUS 4USCAN COOKING WITH AN INNOVATIVE EDGE 2ECKON ON AROUND +n FOR THREE COURSES *UST THIRTY COVERS SO BOOKING IS ADVISED #LOSED 7ED /STERIA DELLE #ATENE 6IA -AINARDI ! THOROUGHLY RELIABLE PLACE FOR STRAIGHTFORWARD 4USCAN FOOD 4HE WINE LIST n OVER A HUNDRED CHOICES n IS GOOD TOO ! GOOD LUNCH WILL COST AROUND + DINNER +n MORE #LOSED 7ED 2ISTORANTE )L 0INO 6IA 3AN -ATTEO 3AN 'IMIGNANOS lRST CHOICE RESTAURANT WITH A LOVELY INTERIOR 3PECIALIZES IN ANTI PASTI AND DISHES SPRINKLED WITH TRUFmE &ROM + UPWARDS #LOSED 4HURS 2ISTORANTE ,A 3TELLA 6IA 3AN -ATTEO 7ELL REPUTED RESTAURANT THAT SERVES PRODUCE FROM ITS OWN FARM OFTEN EXTREMELY TOURISTY BUT STILL GOOD VALUE WITH PASTA DISHES UNDER + #LOSED 7ED
\ 3AN 'IMIGNANO
"IRRERIA 0IETRAlTTA KM EAST OF TOWN ON THE ROAD TO 0OGGIBONSI 4HIS POPULAR PUB WITH ITS LARGE SHADY BEER GARDEN PROVIDES WELCOME RELIEF FROM THE CROWDS OF 3AN 'IMIGNANO 7IDE SELECTION OF BEERS WINES AND COCKTAILS 'OOD PANINI AND SNACKS AVAIL ABLE ALL DAY $AILY AMnAM ,A -ANGIATOIA 6IA -AINARDI 0OPULAR RESTAURANT WITH GOOD 4USCAN STAPLES MAINS +n PASTA +n AND A GARDEN OPEN IN THE SUMMER #LOSED 4UES ,E 6ECCHIE -URA 6IA 0IANDORNELLA (OUSED IN AN OLD VAULTED STABLE WITHIN THE STRUCTURE OF THE CITY WALLS FOLLOW THE SIGN OFF 6IA 3AN 'IOVANNI 'OOD ATMOSPHERE AND REASONABLE VALUE WITH STARTERS AT +n PASTA FROM + AND MAINS +n "E SURE TO BOOK #LOSED 4UES /STERIA DEL #ARCERE 6IA DEL #ASTELLO ! RELATIVELY NEW AND INFORMAL OSTERIA WITH YOUNG OWNERS A FEW STEPS FROM 0IAZZA
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3AN 'IMIGNANO ISNT ESPECIALLY FAMOUS FOR ITS FOOD n THERE ARE TOO MANY TOUR ISTS AND TOO FEW LOCALS TO ENSURE HIGH STANDARDS (OWEVER THE TABLES SET OUT IN SUMMER ON THE CAR LESS STREETS AND SQUARES AND THE LOCAL WINES STILL MAKE FOR A BEGUILING EVENING !T LUNCHTIME YOU MIGHT PREFER TO PICK UP SUPPLIES FROM THE BARS OR DELICATESSENS AND HEAD OUT TO THE COUNTRYSIDE n A MATTER OF WALKING OUT FROM JUST ABOUT ANY OF THE GATES !S AN AFTER MEAL TREAT DROP IN ON THE AWARD WINNING 'ELATERIA DI 0IAZZA AT 0IAZZA DELLA #ISTERNA n THE JOVIAL OWNER CREATES SOME OF THE BEST ICE CREAM IN 4USCANY !T NIGHT 3AN 'IMIGNANO IS VERY MUCH ON THE QUIET SIDE WITH LITTLE ENTERTAINMENT BEYOND THE EVENING PASSEGGIATA ALONG 6IA 3AN 'IOVANNI AND 6IA 3AN -ATTEO &OR A LATE NIGHT BAR AND OCCASIONAL LIVE MUSIC HEAD DOWN TO THE "IRRERIA 0IETRAlTTA SEE BELOW
,ISTINGS "IKE RENTAL "RUNO "ELLINI 6IA 2OMA WWWBELLINIBRUNOCOM ,OST PROPERTY 6IGILI 5RBANI 6IA 3ANTO 3TEFANO -ARKETS 4HE MAIN MARKET WITH CLOTHES CRAFTS AND A VARIETY OF FOOD n INCLUDING ROLLS WITH CINGHIALE lLL
ING n IS IN 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO 0IAZZA DELLE %RBE AND 0IAZZA DELLA #ISTERNA 4HURS AMnPM 4HERE IS A MUCH SMALLER MARKET ON 3ATURDAYS 0OLICE 0IAZZA -ARTIRI DI -ONTE -AGGIO 4AXIS OR
6OLTERRA
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"UILT ON A HIGH PLATEAU ENCLOSED BY YELLOWY GREY VOLCANIC HILLS LOFTY 6/,4 %22! HAS A BLEAK ISOLATED APPEARANCE n A SURPRISE AFTER THE PASTORALISM OF THE REGION AROUND $( ,AWRENCE WROTE ACCURATELY THAT hIT GETS ALL THE WIND AND SEES ALL THE WORLDx A SORT OF INLAND ISLAND STILL CURIOUSLY ISOLATED AND GRIMv (OWEVER ITS SMALL WALLED MEDIEVAL CORE CERTAINLY MERITS A STOP WITH ITS COBBLED AND AUSTERE STONE STREETS DARK STONE PALAZZI AND WALLED GATEWAYS 4HERE ARE GREAT VIEWS FROM THE WINDSWEPT HEIGHTS ENJOYABLE WALKING AND ONE OF THE COUNTRYS MOST IMPORTANT %TRUSCAN MUSEUMS 4HE TOWN LIES AT THE HEART OF A MINING REGION THAT YIELDS ALABASTER EVERY OTHER SHOP SELLS ARTEFACTS AS WELL AS A VARIETY OF MINERALS 4HE MINES n AND THE EASILY DEFENDED SITE n MADE IT ONE OF THE LARGEST %TRUSCAN SETTLEMENTS 6ELATHRI AND ENSURED ITS SURVIVAL THROUGH THE 2OMAN ERA AS 6OLATERRAE $UR ING THE $ARK !GES IT BECAME AN IMPORTANT ,OMBARD CENTRE AND EVEN SHELTERED THE ,OMBARD KINGS FOR A TIME )N THE -IDDLE !GES HOWEVER THE MINES PROVED 6OLTERRAS DOWNFALL AS THE &LORENTINES BEGAN TO CAST A COVETOUS EYE OVER THEIR WEALTH &LORENCE TOOK CONTROL OF THE TOWN FROM AND IN n ANXIOUS TO SECURE THE TOWNS ALUM DEPOSITS VITAL FOR &LORENCES DYEING INDUSTRY n CRUSHED ALL PRETENSIONS TO INDEPENDENCE WITH A TERRIBLE SIEGE AND PILLAGE BY ,ORENZO DE -EDICI AND THE $UKE OF 5RBINO ONE OF THE THREE PRINCIPAL CRIMES ,ORENZO CONFESSED TO 3AVONAROLA ON HIS DEATHBED 3UBSEQUENTLY 6OLTERRA WAS A &LORENTINE lEF UNABLE TO KEEP PACE WITH CHANGING AND EXPANDING PATTERNS OF TRADE AND SLIDING INTO PROVINCIAL OBSCU RITY )T WAS TO REMAIN PART OF THE 'RAND $UCHY OF 4USCANY UNTIL )TALIAN
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!CCOMMODATION OPTIONS INCLUDE A HOSTEL CAMPSITE AND A COUPLE OF VIL LAS JUST OUTSIDE THE TOWN !SK ABOUT APARTMENTS AND AGRITURISMO STAYS AT THE TOURIST OFlCE WHICH HAS A FREE ACCOMMODATION SERVICE OR AT 6IAGGI !456
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4HE NEAREST TRAIN STATION IS KM WEST AT 3ALINE DI 6OLTERRA FROM WHERE #04 BUSES SHUTTLE INTO TOWN "USES ARRIVE ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE TOWN AT 0IAZZA -ARTIRI DELLA ,IBERTÌ INCLUDING THREE DAILY #04 SERVICES FROM #OLLE DI 6AL D%LSA THE LINE &ROM THE PIAZZA ITS A TWO MINUTE WALK TO THE CENTRAL 0IAZZA DEI 0RIORI CLOSE TO THE $UOMO AND TOURIST OFlCE AT 6IA 'IUSTO 4URAZZA DAILY !PRILn/CT AMnPM nPM .OVn-ARCH AMnPM nPM OR WWWPROVOLTERRAIT WHERE YOU CAN BUY BUS TICKETS #ARS ARE BEST PARKED OUTSIDE THE NORTH CIRCUIT OF THE WALLS BY THE 0ORTA 3AN &RANCESCO OR 0ORTA &IORENTINA "EST OF ALL IF YOU CAN lND A SPOT IS THE SIGNED UNDERGROUND h$OGANAv PARKING CONVENIENT FOR THE $UOMO ! LOCAL TAXI COMPANY IS ,ONGARINI 4HE MAJOR 6OLTERRAN FESTIVAL IS THE 'IOCO DELLE #ONTRADE A MEDIEVAL TUG OF WAR HELD IN THE 0IAZZA DEI 0RIORI AT THE BEGINNING OF *UNE 4HE 6OLTERRA 4EATRO WWWVOLTERRATEATROIT AND 6OLTERRA *AZZ FESTIVALS TAKE PLACE IN *ULY AND !UGUST THE TOURIST OFlCE HAS DETAILS
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5 6IEW OVER THE ROOFTOPS OF 6OLTERRA
0IAZZA -ARTIRI DELLA ,IBERTÌ -ONn&RI AMnPM nPM 3AT AMnNOON VOLTERRAVIAGGI SIRTPISAIT (OTELS %TRURIA 6IA -ATTEOTTI "EST VALUE OF THE HOTELS PROPER n AND LOCATED ON THE MAIN STREET RIGHT IN THE CENTRE n THIS RESTORED EIGH TEENTH CENTURY BUILDING HAS COMFORTABLE ROOMS AND A PRIVATE GARDEN ,A ,OCANDA 6IA 'UARNACCI n WWWHOTEL LALOCANDACOM 4HE 3AN ,INO SEE BELOW HAD ITS OWN WAY FOR YEARS AMONG 6OLTERRAS TOP HOTELS BUT THE RECENTLY OPENED FOUR STAR ,A ,OCANDA SMARTLY CONVERTED FROM A FORMER NUNNERY HAS STOLEN ITS THUNDER )T ALSO HAS THE ADVANTAGE OF A SLIGHTLY MORE CENTRAL POSITION NORTH OF 0IAZZA DEI 0RIORI NEAR THE 0ORTA &IORENTINA
.AZIONALE 6IA DEI -ARCHESI WWWALBERGONAZIONALEVOLTERRAIT )N THE HEART OF TOWN THIS THREE STAR HOTEL IS THE INN $( ,AWRENCE STAYED AT WHEN RESEARCHING %TRUSCAN 0LACES n THE MEDIEVAL PALAZZO WAS TRANSFORMED INTO A HOTEL IN .OW MUCH MODERNIZED WITH MOSTLY TINY ROOMS ALL WITH BATHROOM 3AN ,INO 6IA 3AN ,INO WWWHOTELSANLINOCOM 6OLTERRAS GRANDEST HOTEL UNTIL THE ARRIVAL OF ,A ,OCANDA THIS FOUR STAR PLACE WITH ROOMS AND POOL IS STILL A GOOD BET )TS LOCATED ON THE STREET LEADING IN FROM 0ORTA 3AN &RANCESCO
3OLE 6IA DEI #APPUCCINI ! MODERN THREE STAR IN A QUIET LOCATION OUTSIDE THE TOWN WALLS NEAR THE CHURCH OF 3AN !LESSANDRO !LL TEN ROOMS COME WITH BATHROOM 6ILLA .ENCINI "ORGO 3ANTO 3TEFANO !TTRACTIVE THREE STAR HOTEL INSINUATED INTO A SEVENTEENTH CENTURY BUILDING WITH A POOL AND GARDEN SITED JUST OUTSIDE 0ORTA 3AN &RANCESCO ON THE TOWNS NORTHWEST EDGE
#ONVENT #ONVENTO 3ANT!NDREA /N THE NORTHEAST OUTSKIRTS OF THE TOWN FOLLOW THE ROAD OUT OF 0ORTA -ARCOLI 4HERE ARE BEAUTIFUL VIEWS FROM THE OLD CELLS NOW LET AS PRIVATE ROOMS WITH OLD PAINTED BRASS BEDS n TO BOTH SINGLE WOMEN AND MEN AND COUPLES ¬ PER PERSON IN A ROOM WITH PRIVATE BATHROOM + IN A ROOM WITH SHARED BATHROOM
#AMPSITE ,E "ALZE 6IA -ANDRINGA 7ELL EQUIPPED AND NICELY POSITIONED SITE KM WEST OF THE CENTRE OUTSIDE "ORGO 3AN 'IUSTO FOLLOW SIGNS FOR THE "ALZE (AS A POOL AND TENNIS COURTS RIDING CAN ALSO BE ARRANGED !PRILn3EPT
4HE 4OWN
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\ 6OLTERRA
4HE 0IAZZA DEI 0RIORI IS THE HEART OF 6OLTERRA ENCLOSED BY AN ALMOST TOTALLY MEDIEVAL GROUP OF BUILDINGS 4HE BATTLEMENTED TOWN HALL OR 0ALAZZO DEI 0RI ORI IS THE EYECATCHER "UILT BETWEEN AND AND SAID TO BE THE OLDEST SUCH PALACE IN )TALY IT MAY HAVE SERVED AS THE MODEL FOR &LORENCES 0ALAZZO 6EC CHIO n THOUGH THE INmUENCES ARE LARGELY REVERSED ON ITS FACADE WHICH IS STUDDED WITH &LORENTINE MEDALLIONS )TS WORTH PAYING FOR SPECTACULAR VIEWS FROM THE TOP OF THE TOWER 3AT 3UN AMnPM nPM + )N THE MAIN BUILDING YOU CAN TAKE A LOOK AT THE UPPER mOOR 3ALA DEL #ONSIGLIO #OMUNALE USED AS THE TOWNS COUNCIL CHAMBER WITHOUT INTERRUPTION SINCE )TS END WALL IS FRESCOED WITH A HUGE !NNUNCIATION ATTRIBUTED TO *ACOPO DI #IONE /PPOSITE THE TOWN HALL IS THE 0ALAZZO 0RETORIO SURMOUNTED BY THE 4ORRE DEL 0ORCELLINO 0IGLETS 4OWER NAMED AFTER THE MUCH WORN CARVED BOAR ON A BRACKET TO THE RIGHT OF THE TOP WINDOW COMPLETING THE ENSEMBLE ARE THE 0ALAZZO 6ESCOVILE OR "ISHOPS 0ALACE FORMERLY THE TOWNS GRANARY AND A PAIR OF TOWER HOUSES THE "UOMPARENTI AT THE JUNCTION OF 6IA 2OMA AND 6IA 2IC CIARELLI -ODEST RELATIVES OF THOSE OF 3AN 'IMIGNANO THE TOWERS ARE LINKED BY A PASSAGEWAY ABOVE THE STREET 4HE "ISHOPS 0ALACE HOUSES THE RICH LITTLE THREE ROOM -USEO DI !RTE 3ACRA DAILY MID -ARCH TO /CT AMnPM nPM REST OF YEAR AMnPM JOINT TICKET WITH 0INACOTECA E -USEO #IVICO AND -USEO %TRUSCO 'UARNACCI + AT 6IA 2OMA $ISPLAYS IN THE lRST ROOM INCLUDE AN !NDREA DELLA 2OBBIA BUST OF 3T ,INUS A 6OLTERRAN WHO WAS 3T 0ETERS SUCCESSOR AS POPE A SILVER RELIQUARY BUST OF 3T /TTAVIANO BY !NDREA DEL 0OLLAIUOLO A lFTEENTH CENTURY PAINTED WOODEN TABERNACLE BY "ARTOLOMEO DELLA 'ATTA BETTER KNOWN FOR HIS WORK AROUND !REZZO AND #ORTONA AND A CLUTCH OF 3IENESE ALTARPIECES BY .ERI DI "ICI 4ADDEO DI "ARTOLO AND 3EGNA DI "ONAVENTURA 4HE SECOND ROOM HAS A GILDED #RUCIlX BY 'IAMBOLOGNA THOUGH THE REAL HIGHLIGHTS ESPECIALLY FOR FANS OF -ANNERISM RESIDE IN ROOM WHICH FEATURES 2OSSO &IORENTINOS -ADONNA DI 6ILLAMAGNA AND THE -ADONNA DI 5LIGNANO BY THE LEADING LOCAL ARTIST $ANIELE DA 6OLTERRA 4HE $UOMO AND ITS SQUARE
"ACKING DIRECTLY ONTO THE CIVIC POWER CENTRE 6OLTERRAS CATHEDRAL SQUARE SEEMS A TOUCH DOWN AT HEEL WITH ITS PARTIAL FACADES AND CRUMBLING MASONRY 4HE $UOMO OR "ASILICA DI 3ANTA -ARIA !SSUNTA CONSECRATED IN AND "APTIS TERY SECOND HALF OF THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY ARE ESSENTIALLY 2OMANESQUE CLAD IN BANDS OF BLACK AND WHITE MARBLE n THE STYLE POPULARIZED IN THE TWELFTH CENTURY BY 0ISA "EHIND THE BAPTISTERY DELLA 2OBBIA PLAQUES OF SWADDLED BABIES SIGNAL A BUILDING THAT WAS ONCE A FOUNDLINGS HOSPITAL /N THE BAPTISTERYS EXTERIOR NOTE THE MAIN PORTAL WHOSE ROUNDED ARCH CONTAINS THE CARVED HEADS OF #HRIST THE -ADONNA AND THE !POSTLES )NSIDE ARE A WATER STOUP FASHIONED FROM AN OLD %TRUSCAN FUNERARY MONUMENT AND A lNE BAPTISMAL FONT BY !NDREA 3ANSOVINO )NSIDE THE $UOMO STRIPED MARBLE 2OMANESQUE AISLES AND A COFFERED 2ENAIS SANCE CEILING LEND THE BUILDING A RATHER MAKESHIFT APPEARANCE -OVING DOWN THE RIGHT SOUTH AISLE YOU COME TO A CHAPEL IN THE RIGHT TRANSEPT WITH AN OUTSTAND ING 0ISAN $EPOSITION ITS LIFE SIZE lGURES DISARMINGLY REPAINTED IN THEIR ORIGINAL BRIGHT COLOURS /N THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE CHOIR LIES THE #APPELLA DI 3AN /TTAVIANO WHICH CONTAINS THE BODY OF THE EPONYMOUS SAINT A SIXTH CENTURY HERMIT WHOSE RELICS SAVED 6OLTERRA FROM A PLAGUE IN n HE IS ONE OF THE TOWNS PATRON SAINTS 4HE HIGH ALTAR A NINETEENTH CENTURY TRAVESTY IS SURMOUNTED
BY AN EXQUISITE TABERNACLE BY -INO DA &IESOLE -INO ALSO CARVED THE TWO KNEELING ANGELS mANKING THE HIGH ALTAR )N THE LEFT NORTH AISLE THE HIGHLIGHTS ARE TWO lFTEENTH CENTURY TERRACOTTA lGURES IN THE ORATORY NEAR THE ENTRANCE THEY DEPICT THE .ATIVITY AND !DORATION OF THE -AGI THE FORMER GRACED WITH A PAINTED BACKGROUND BY "ENOZZO 'OZZOLI &ARTHER DOWN IS A THIRTEENTH CENTURY 0ISAN PULPIT ASSEMBLED IN FROM A VARIETY OF EARLIER FRAGMENTS /N THE ALTAR ALONGSIDE IS A BEAUTIFUL !NNUNCIATION GENERALLY ATTRIBUTED TO &RA "ARTOLOMMEO 0INACOTECA E -USEO #IVICO AND %COMUSEO DELL!LABASTRO
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\ 6OLTERRA
0AINTINGS AND SCULPTURE GATHERED FROM 6OLTERRAS CHURCHES INCLUDING ONE THAT WAS SWALLOWED UP BY THE "ALZE ARE DISPLAYED AT THE 0INACOTECA E -USEO #IVICO INSTALLED IN THE 0ALAZZO -INUCCI 3OLAINI 6IA DEI 3ARTI DAILY AMn PM .OV TO MID -ARCH CLOSES PM JOINT TICKET WITH -USEO D!RTE 3ACRA AND -USEO %TRUSCO 'UARNACCI + 4HE MANSION IS AN INTERESTING BUILDING IN ITS OWN RIGHT PART FRESCOED AND WITH A MULTI LEVEL CLOISTER ITS DESIGNER MAY HAVE BEEN !NTONIO DA 3ANGALLO 4HE COLLECTIONS ARE ARRANGED CHRONOLOGICALLY AND BEGIN WITH STATUARY FROM THE LOST CHURCH OF 3AN 'IUSTO AL "OSTRO THERES A WONDERFUL 2OMANESQUE CAPITAL CARVED FROM LOCAL ALABASTER ITS MIX OF PAGAN AND #HRISTIAN EMBLEMS INCLUDING A DOUBLE TAILED MERMAID AND $ANIEL IN THE LIONS DEN 4HE PAINTING DISPLAYS BEGIN WITH LARGELY 3IENESE WORKS NOTABLY 4ADDEO DI "ARTOLOS POLYPTYCH OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 3AINTS AND THE SAME ARTISTS -ADONNA DELLA 2OSA PART OF A DISMEMBERED POLYPTYCH AND PANEL OF 33 .ICOLA DA 4OTENTINO AND 0ETER "UT BY THE lFTEENTH CENTURY &LORENCE DOMINATED ART AS IT DID POLITICS -AJOR 2ENAISSANCE PAINTINGS FROM THIS PERIOD INCLUDE A #HRIST IN 'LORY WITH A MARVELLOUS IMAGINARY LANDSCAPE BY 'HIRLANDAIO ROOM 8 AND A -ADONNA AND 3AINTS AND !NNUNCIATION BY ,UCA 3IGNORELLI THE LATTER RECKONED ONE OF THE ARTISTS MASTERPIECES ROOM 8) 4HE MUSEUMS BEST WORK HOWEVER IS 2OSSO &IORENTINOS EXTRAORDINARY $ESCENT FROM THE #ROSS PAINTED FOR THE CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCESCO IN 4HIS IS ONE OF THE MASTERPIECES OF -ANNERISM ITS lGURES WITHOUT ANY CENTRAL FOCUS CREATING AN AGITATED CIRCULAR TENSION FROM SHARP LINES AND BLOCKS OF DISCORDANT COLOUR 4HE ART HISTORIAN &REDERICK (ARTT SAW IN THE PAINTING hTHE DILEMMA OF A LOST GENERATIONv n IT WAS PAINTED IN THE DECADE THAT CULMINATED IN THE 3ACK OF 2OME n AS WELL AS VIRTUAL BLASPHEMY IN THE VISION OF A SMILING #HRIST AND GIBBERING *OSEPH OF !RIMATHEA )N THE 4ORRE -INUCCI OF THE SAME PALACE COMPLEX IS THE %COMUSEO DELL!LABASTRO MID -ARCH TO /CT DAILY AMnPM REST OF THE YEAR 3AT 3UN AMnPM + OPENED IN AND THE MAIN FOCUS OF A THREE PART MUSEUM DEVOTED TO THE LOCAL ALABASTER INDUSTRY WITH OTHER BASES IN THE VILLAGES OF 3ANTA ,UCE AND #ASTELLINA -ARITTIMA KM APART KM WEST OF 6OLTERRA ON THE SCENIC MINOR ROAD NORTH FROM THE . #ECINA ROAD 4HE MUSEUM HAS DETAILS OF TWO DRIVING ITINERARIES TAKING IN THESE AND OTHER POINTS OF INTER EST CONNECTED WITH THE INDUSTRY )T ALSO HAS DISPLAYS CHRONICLING THE INDUSTRYS DEVELOPMENT AS WELL AS OBJECTS IN ALBASTER INCLUDING TWO %TRUSCAN URNS AND TWO CAPITALS THE LATTER VIRTUALLY THE ONLY SURVIVING LOCAL ITEMS IN ALABASTER FROM THE MEDIEVAL PERIOD /N THE SAME STREET AS THE 0INACOTECA E -USEO #IVICO IS THE 0ALAZZO )NCON TRI 6ITI 6IA DEI 3ARTI A PRIVATE RESIDENCE BUILT IN ABOUT ITS FORTY METRE STREET FRONTAGE IS ATTRIBUTED TO "ARTOLOMEO !MMANNATI ! VARIETY OF ITS BEAUTIFULLY FRESCOED AND LUXURIOUSLY FURNISHED ROOMS ARE OPEN TO THE PUBLIC
!PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM nPM REST OF YEAR BY APPOINTMENT ONLY AT THE TOURIST OFlCE + 4HE 2OCCA !RCO %TRUSCO AND ARCHEOLOGICAL REMAINS
\
4(% 3 ) % .% 3 % () , , 4/7 . 3 6OLTERRA
3OUTH OF 0IAZZA DEI 0RIORI 6IA -ARCHESI LEADS TO A LUSH AREA OF GRASS TREES AND SHADE KNOWN AS THE 0ARCO !RCHEOLOGICO DAILY AMnNOON nPM FREE 4HERES NOT MUCH ARCHEOLOGY ABOUT THE PLACE n A FEW ODD LUMPS OF ROCK SAID TO BE PART OF A 2OMAN BATHHOUSE n BUT ITS A BEAUTIFUL PART OF THE TOWN TO LIE AROUND FOR A FEW HOURS AND THERES A GOOD VALUE CAFÏ BAR IN ONE CORNER /VERLOOKING THE PARK TO THE EAST IS THE 2OCCA BUILT BY THE -EDICI AFTER THEIR SACKING OF THE TOWN WITH ITS ROUNDED BASTIONS AND CENTRAL TOWER ITS ONE OF THE GREAT EXAMPLES OF )TALIAN MILITARY ARCHITECTURE &OR THE LAST YEARS ITS BEEN A PRISON FOR LIFERS AND HARD CASES *UST NORTH OF THE CASTLE AT 0IAZZA 88 3ETTEMBRE IS THE CROWD PLEASING -USEO DELLA 4ORTURA WHICH LIKE THE SIMILAR MUSEUM IN 3AN 'IMIGNANO IS A GRATUITOUS AFFAIR 4HE lRST TURNING LEFT OFF 6IA -ARCHESI 6IA 0ORTA DELL!RCO RUNS DOWNHILL TO THE !RCO %TRUSCO AN %TRUSCAN GATEWAY THIRD CENTURY "# IN ORIGIN BUILT IN #YCLOPEAN BLOCKS OF STONE WITH 2OMAN AND MEDIEVAL SURROUNDS THE THREE BLACKENED AND ERODED LUMPS ON ITS OUTER FACE ARE PROBABLY IMAGES OF %TRUSCAN GODS 4HE GATE WAS NARROWLY SAVED FROM DESTRUCTION IN 7ORLD 7AR )) DURING THE COURSE OF A TEN DAY BATTLE BETWEEN THE PARTISANS 6OLTERRA WAS A STRONGHOLD AND THE .AZIS ! MEMORIAL COMMEMORATES THE PARTISAN LOSSES )F YOU TURN NORTH INSTEAD OFF 6IA -ARCHESI AND FOLLOW 6IA -ATTEOTTI AND ITS CONTINUATION 6IA 'UARNACCI YOU REACH THE 0ORTA &IORENTINA *UST TO THE WEST OF THE GATE BELOW THE ROAD IS AN AREA OF EXCAVATIONS INCLUDING A 2OMAN THEATRE NOW RESTORED FOR USE IN THE SUMMER THEATRE FESTIVAL AND A BATH COMPLEX WITH MOSAIC mOORS &OLLOWING THE 6IA $IANA STRAIGHT AHEAD FROM THE GATE MAKES FOR A PLEASANT WALK LEADING PAST THE CEMETERY TO REMAINS OF THE %TRUSCAN 0ORTA $IANA /UT BEYOND HERE TRACKS LEAD THROUGH FARMLAND THAT WAS ONCE A VAST %TRUSCAN NECROPOLIS WANDERING THROUGH YOULL SPOT VARIOUS UNMARKED UNDERGROUND TOMBS 4HE -USEO %TRUSCO 'UARNACCI
6OLTERRAS %TRUSCAN LEGACY IS REPRESENTED MOST IMPORTANTLY AT THE -USEO %TRUS CO 'UARNACCI 6IA $ON -INZONI DAILY AMnPM .OV TO MID -ARCH CLOSES PM JOINT TICKET WITH -USEO D!RTE 3ACRA AND 0INACOTECA + /NE OF )TALYS MAJOR ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUMS IT CONSISTS ENTIRELY OF LOCAL lNDS INCLUDING SOME SIX HUNDRED FUNERARY URNS -ADE OF ALABASTER TUFA AND TERRACOTTA THE URNS DATE FROM THE FOURTH TO lRST CENTURIES "# n EARLIER TOMBS WERE LOST AS THE CLIFFS FELL TO NOTHING /N THEIR SIDES BAS RELIEFS DEPICT DOMESTIC EVENTS OFTEN BOAR HUNTING OR 'REEK MYTHS USUALLY A TRIP TO THE UNDERWORLD ON THE LID ARE A BUST OF THE SUBJECT AND SYM BOLIC mOWERS n ONE FOR A YOUNG PERSON TWO FOR MIDDLE AGED THREE FOR ELDERLY 4HE VAST COLLECTION IS ORGANIZED BY THEME WITH INFORMATIVE NOTES IN EACH ROOM -OST OF THE BEST ARE ARRANGED ON THE TOP mOOR AND DATE FROM THE hGOLDEN AGEv OF THE THIRD AND SECOND CENTURIES "# PAST A LARGE 2OMAN MOSAIC TRANS FERRED HERE FROM THE BATHS COMPLEX OUTSIDE TOWN IS THE 5RNA DEGLI 3POSI A DISTURBING PORTRAIT SCENE OF A SUPPOSED HUSBAND AND WIFE n ALL PIERCING EYES AND DREADFUL LOOKS 4HE STAR PIECE AMONG A NUMBER OF SMALL BRONZE SCULPTURES IS THE EXCEPTIONAL /MBRA DELLA 3ERA h%VENING 3HADOWv AN ELONGATED NUDE WHICH PROVIDED INSPIRATION FOR THE TWENTIETH CENTURY 3WISS SCULPTOR !LBERTO 'IACOMETTI 4HE FARMER WHO UNEARTHED IT DISPLAYED RATHER LESS REVERENCE HE USED IT AS A POKER FOR A FEW YEARS
4O THE "ALZE
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4O REACH THE "ALZE n 6OLTERRAS FAMOUS ERODED CLIFFS n FOLLOW 6IA DI 3AN ,INO NORTHWEST FROM THE 0IAZZA DEI 0RIORI 4HIS PASSES THE CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCESCO WHOSE ADJOINING #APPELLA DELLA #ROCE DI 'IORNO BUILT IN CONTAINS FAS CINATING AND VERY EARLY NARRATIVE FRESCOES OF THE ,EGEND OF THE 4RUE #ROSS BY #ENNI DI &RANCESCO AN ACCOMPLISHED BUT LITTLE KNOWN LOCAL ARTIST 2OSSO &IORENTINOS FAMOUS $ESCENT FROM THE #ROSS NOW IN THE 0INACOTECA E -USEO #IV ICO ONCE STOOD ABOVE THE HIGH ALTAR &ROM THE NEARBY 0ORTA 3AN &RANCESCO FOLLOW "ORGO 3ANTO 3TEFANO AND ITS CONTINUATION "ORGO 3AN 'IUSTO PAST THE "AROQUE CHURCH AND FORMER ABBEY OF 3AN 'IUSTO ITS DILAPIDATED BUT STRIKING FACADE FRAMED BY AN AVENUE OF CYPRESS TREES !T THE "ALZE THEMSELVES ALMOST KM WEST OF 0IAZZA DEI 0RIORI YOU GAIN A REAL SENSE OF THE EXTENT OF %TRUSCAN 6OLTERRA WHOSE OLD TOWN WALLS DROP AWAY INTO THE CHASMS 'ASHES IN THE SLOPES AND THE NATURAL EROSION OF SAND AND CLAY ARE MADE MORE DRAMATIC BY ALABASTER MINES ANCIENT AND MODERN "ELOW ARE BURIED GREAT TRACTS OF THE %TRUSCAN AND 2OMAN CITY AND LANDSLIPS CONTINUE n AS EVIDENCED BY THE LOCKED AND RUINED ELEVENTH CENTURY "ADIA MONASTERY EBBING AWAY OVER THE PRECIPICE
%ATING AND DRINKING
\ 3OUTH OF 6OLTERRA
!S A HUNTING CENTRE 6OLTERRAS RESTAURANT MENUS ARE DOMINATED BY WILD BOAR CINGHIALE 9OU SEE STUFFED HEADS OF THE UNFORTUNATE BEASTS THROUGHOUT TOWN AND THE MEAT IS PACKAGED AS SALAMIS OR HAMS AS WELL AS ROASTED IN THE RESTAURANTS ALONG WITH HARE LEPRE AND RABBIT CONIGLIO 2ESTAURANTS LISTED BELOW COVER THE BEST OF A SIMILARLY PRICED BUNCH #HEAPER OPTIONS INCLUDE A FEW PIZZERIE SUCH AS THE CENTRAL ,!NTICA 4AVERNA AT 6IA DEI 3ARTI n 2ESTAURANTS $A "ADÛ "ORGO 3AN ,AZZARO %XCELLENT LOCAL TRATTORIA ON THE 33 &LOR ENCEn3IENA ROAD RUN BY TWO AMIABLE BROTHERS WITH MOTHER IN THE KITCHEN WHICH HAS MADE A NAME FOR ITSELF IN NATIONAL FOODIE GUIDES 3ERVES UP DELICIOUS CROSTINI AND 6OLTERRAN GAME STAPLES SUCH AS PAP PARDELLE ALLA LEPRE #LOSED 7ED PERIODS IN *ULY AND 3EPT $A "EPPINO 6IA DELLE 0RIGIONI n 2ELIABLE ESTABLISHED AND FAM ILY RUN RESTAURANT IN THE HEART OF THE OLD TOWN WITH LOTS OF SPACE COVERS INSIDE OUTSIDE 3ERVES HOMEMADE PASTA PIZZAS AND PLENTY OF HUNTING DISHES WITH AN EMPHASIS ON TRUFmES AND MUSHROOMS #LOSED 4HURS AROUND MID .OV TO MID $EC
$EL $UCA 6IA DI #ASTELLO /N THE EDGE OF THE OLD CENTRE THIS SMALL RESTAURANT ONE DINING ROOM AND JUST COVERS IS CURRENTLY THE BEST PLACE IN TOWN THANKS TO ITS LOVELY SETTING HIGH CEILINGS AND IMPRESSIVE CANTINA SURPRISINGLY FAIR PRICES AND lNE 4USCAN FOOD WITH A CREATIVE TWIST #LOSED 4UES EXCEPT *ULYn3EPT %TRURIA 0IAZZA DEI 0RIORI "EST OF THE MORE EXPENSIVE PLACES LOCATED ON THE MAIN SQUARE IN AN OLD PALAZZO WITH PERIOD FURNITURE AND FRESCOES $ESPITE ITS Ì LA CARTE PRICES IT HAS INEX PENSIVE TOURIST MENUS #LOSED 7ED 6ECCHIA /STERIA DEI 0OETI 6IA -ATTEOTTI n /NE OF THE MOST POPULAR AND WELCOMING RESTAURANTS IN TOWN n AND THEY DONT STINT ON PORTIONS ! CENTRAL LOCATION WITH ONE DINING ROOM AND A RUSTIC APPEARANCE THAT RETAINS MANY FEA TURES OF THE ORIGINAL MEDIEVAL BUILDING #LOSED 4HURS
3OUTH OF 6OLTERRA
-OST TRAVELLERS TAKE IN 6OLTERRA FROM THE &LORENCEn3AN 'IMIGNANOn3IENA ROUTE HEADING BACK EAST OR STRIKING NORTH TO 0ISA 4HE ROAD SOUTH . OVER TO -ASSA -ARÓTTIMA COVERED BY !04 BUSES IS MUCH LESS EXPLORED n A VERY WILD
MOUNTAINOUS ROUTE THAT IS GIVEN AN ADDED SURREAL QUALITY BY THE PRESENCE OF SOFlONI HOT STEAM GEYSERS FROM WHICH BORIC ACID IS EXTRACTED 4O THE EAST OF THE ROAD ARE THE #OLLINE -ETALLIFERE n THE METAL HILLS n MINED BY THE %TRUSCANS AND STILL INHABITED BY WOLVES AN ODD THOUGHT JUST lFTY MILES FROM 2OME
0OMARANCE ,ARDERELLO AND #ASTELNUOVO
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\ 4RAVEL DETAILS
,EAVING 6OLTERRA YOUVE A HIGHLY SCENIC DRIVE DOWN TO 0/-!2!.#% A DULL AND LARGELY MODERN CENTRE n THE AREA WAS BADLY BOMBED IN n NOTEWORTHY ONLY FOR A HANDFUL OF PAINTINGS IN THE PARISH CHURCH OF 3AN 'IOVANNI "ATTISTA *UST EAST IS THE GREAT RUINED BASTION OF THE 2OCCA DI 3ILANO n A LANDMARK FOR ALMOST THE WHOLE EXTENT OF THIS ROUTE "ILLING ITSELF AS THE h7ORLD #ENTRE OF 'EOTHERMAL %NERGYv ,!2$%2%,,/ SIGNALS THE HEART OF SOFlONI COUNTRY AND TAKES ITS NAME FROM A NINETEENTH CENTURY &RENCHMAN &RAN OIS $E ,ARDEREL WHO INTRODUCED THE SYSTEM FOR HARNESSING ENERGY FROM THE VAPOURS %.%, THE ELECTRICITY COMPANY HAS SET UP THE -USEO DELLA 'EOTERMIA DI ,ARDERELLO ON THE SUBJECT MID -ARCH TO MID 3EPT -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM 3AT 3UN AMnNOON nPM REST OF YEAR -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM 3UN AMnNOON nPM FREE GUIDED TOURS TO A GEOTHERMAL POWER STATION ON REQUEST -ODERNIST BUFFS MIGHT ALSO TAKE A LOOK AT THE S GLASS AND CONCRETE CHURCH BY 'IOVANNI -ICHELUCCI NEAR THE CENTRE OF TOWN !LL AROUND ,ARDERELLO HUGE SILVER PIPES RUN ACROSS THE lELDS WITH STEAM AND SMOKE RISING INTERMITTENTLY FROM CHIMNEYS AMID THE DARK FOLIAGE 4HERE ARE FOURTEEN POWER STATIONS AND SOME SIXTY KILOMETRES OF PIPING 3ETTLEMENTS ARE FEW PRESUMABLY OWING TO THE STRONG WHIFFS OF SULPHUR AND THE ONLY SIZEABLE VILLAGE PAST ,ARDERELLO IS #ASTELNUOVO DI 6AL DI #ECINA A NEAT LITTLE BORGO MEDIOEVALE "EYOND HERE THE ROAD IS HEMMED IN BY WOODS AND THERES SCARCELY A FARMHOUSE TO BE SEEN UNTIL THE OPEN PLAINS AROUND -ASSA -ARÓTTIMA KM AWAY 7ITH TRANSPORT YOU COULD CUT EAST ALONG A TINY WINDING ROAD SOUTH OF #ASTELNUOVO THROUGH -ONTIERI AND ON TO 3AN 'ALGANO SEE P
4RAVEL DETAILS 4RAINS 0OGGIBONSI TO &LORENCE HOURLY HR MIN 3IENA HOURLY MIN 3ALINE DI 6OLTERRA TO #ÏCINA DAILY MIN CON NECTIONS TO 0ISA AND 2OME
"USES #OLLE DI 6AL D%LSA TO #ASOLE D%LSA DAILY MIN &LORENCE HOURLY HR -ONTERIGGIONI HOUR LY MIN 0OGGIBONSI HOURLY MIN 2ADICØNDOLI DAILY MIN 3IENA HOURLY MIN 6OLTERRA DAILY MIN
0OGGIBONSI TO #OLLE DI 6AL D%LSA HOURLY MIN &LORENCE HOURLY MIN 3AN 'IMIGNANO EVERY MIN MIN 3IENA HOURLY MIN 3AN 'IMIGNANO TO 0OGGIBONSI DAILY MIN 3IENA DAILY HR MIN 3IENA TO #OLLE DI 6AL D%LSA HOURLY MIN &LOR ENCE HOURLY HR MIN -ONTERIGGIONI HOURLY MIN 0OGGIBONSI HOURLY MIN 6OLTERRA TO #OLLE DI 6AL D%LSA DAILY MIN ,ARDERELLO DAILY MIN 0ISA DAILY HR MIN 3ALINE DI 6OLTERRA DAILY MIN
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Ê "AGNO 6IGNONI !TMOS
SULPHUR POOL INSTEAD OF A CENTRAL PIAZZA 3EE P
Ê 0IENZA 0OPE 0IUS ))S TOWN SIZED MONUMENT TO HIMSELF 3EE P
Ê -ONTEPULCIANO )S THERE A MORE ATTRACTIVE HILL TOWN ANYWHERE IN THE COUNTRY 3EE P
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3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9 3AN 'ALGANO AND THE WESTERN CRETE
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HE REGION SOUTH OF 3IENA IS 4USCANY AT ITS BEST AN INlNITE GRADATION OF HILLS TREES AND CULTIVATION THAT ENCOMPASSES THE #RETE 3ENESE THE VINEYARDS OF -ONTEPULCIANO AND -ONTALCINO THE -ONTE !MIATA UPLANDS AND lNALLY A LANDSCAPE OF SULPHUROUS SPRINGS AND CASTLE TOPPED OUTCROPS OF TUFA 4HE CRETE ESPECIALLY IS FABULOUS A SPARSELY POPULATED REGION OF PALE CLAY HILLSIDES DOT TED WITH SHEEP CYPRESSES AND THE ODD MONUMENTAL LOOKING FARMHOUSE 4HE TOWNS ON THE WHOLE LIVE UP TO THIS ENVIRONMENT -ONTEPULCIANO IS THE MOST ELEGANT AND MAKES A SUPERB BASE WITH ITS INDEPENDENT HILL TOWN LIFE ACCLAIMED 6INO .OBILE WINE AND BACKDROP OF 2ENAISSANCE BUILDINGS -ON TALCINO TOO HAS APPEALING WINES ITS "RUNELLO IS REGARDED AS 4USCANYS lNEST VINTAGE AND CLASSIC HILL TOWN LOOKS WHILE 0IENZA IS A UNIQUE 2ENAISSANCE MONUMENT A TOWN CREATED BY THE GREAT HUMANIST POPE 0IUS )) )N THE SOUTH OF THE REGION THE URBAN HIGHLIGHTS ARE 0ITIGLIANO ISOLATED ON AN EXTRAORDINARY CRAG AND NEARBY THE FORGOTTEN HALF ABANDONED MEDIEVAL TOWN OF 3OVANA -ONASTERIES ARE A MAJOR ATTRACTION OF THE AREA AND FEATURE SOME OF THE GREATEST HOUSES OF THE MEDIEVAL )TALIAN ORDERS #ISTERCIAN 3AN 'ALGANO AND !BBADIA 3AN 3ALVATORE "ENEDICTINE -ONTE /LIVETO -AGGIORE AND 3ANT!NTIMO AND 6ALLOMBROSAN 4ORRI !LL ARE TREMENDOUS BUILDINGS ENCOMPASSING THE BEST 2OMANESQUE AND 'OTHIC CHURCH ARCHITECTURE IN 4USCANY %QUALLY MEMORABLE ARE THE EXTRAORDINARY SULPHUR SPRINGS THAT ERUPT FROM THE ROCKS OR ARE CHANNELLED INTO GEOTHERMAL ENERGY PUNCTUATING THE LANDSCAPE WITH PILLARS OF WHITE SMOKE 3EVERAL OF THE SPRINGS HAVE FOR CENTURIES FORMED THE NUCLEUS OF SPAS 4HE MOST INTERESTING IS "AGNO 6IGNONI STILL WITH ITS -EDICEAN BASIN IN THE VILLAGE SQUARE (ERE AND AT "AGNI DI 0ETRIOLO "AGNI 3AN &ILIPPO AND n MOST SPECTACULARLY n 3ATURNIA YOU CAN IMMERSE YOURSELF IN OPEN AIR ROCK POOLS BELOW WARM CASCADES
3AN 'ALGANO AND THE WESTERN CRETE )F YOU HAVE TRANSPORT THE ROUTE PAST THE ABBEYS OF 4ORRI AND 3AN 'ALGANO THE SULPHUR SPRING OF 0ETRIOLO AND THE VILLAGES OF THE WESTERN CRETE MAKES ONE OF THE BEST TRIPS OUT FROM 3IENA )T COULD BE DONE IN A DAY OR ALTERNATIVELY WITH A NIGHTS STOP AT "UONCONVENTO -ONTALCINO OR ONE OF THE -URLO VILLAGES )F YOURE DEPENDENT ON PUBLIC TRANSPORT ITS PERHAPS BEST TO CONTENT YOURSELF WITH 3AN 'ALGANO WHICH LIES JUST OFF THE . 3IENAn-ASSA -ARÓTTIMA ROAD IN A DAY YOU COULD RETURN TO 3IENA CONTINUE TO -ASSA -ARÓTTIMA OR STOP AT THE VILLAGE OF 0ALAZZETTO NEAR THE ABBEY
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$RIVING SOUTH FROM 3IENA ITS BEST TO FOLLOW THE . 'ROSSETO ROAD AS FAR AS THE JUNCTION SIGNPOSTED TO "RENNA 3TIGLIANO AND 4ORRI 4AKING THIS MINOR ROAD YOU lND YOURSELF IN THE 2OSIA VALLEY A BELT OF ANCIENT FARMLAND INCREASINGLY MARRED BY THE EXPANSION OF A HUGE "AYER CHEMICAL FACTORY AND OVERLOOKED BY A SERIES OF CREAM STONE VILLAGES SET ALONG THE WOODED RIDGE TO THE SOUTH !LL THESE VILLAGES ARE PASTORAL BEAUTIES APPROACHED FROM THE VALLEY mOOR ALONG COBBLED ROADS AND AVENUES OF CYPRESS TREES WITH FARMYARDS BACKING ONTO MANY OF THE HOUSES 4O GIVE A POINT OF FOCUS TO THE TRIP COME ON A -ONDAY OR &RIDAY MORNING WHEN YOU CAN VISIT THE -ONASTERO DEI 3ANTI 4RINITÌ E -USTIOLA -ON &RI AMnNOON AT 4/22) THE LAST OF THE VILLAGES JUST KM EAST OF THE 3IENAn'ROS SETO ROAD 4HE MONASTERY FOUNDED IN THE ELEVENTH CENTURY WAS AN IMPORTANT POWER BASE FOR THE 6ALLOMBROSAN ORDER UNTIL DIFlCULTIES WITH THE PAPACY LED TO ITS SUPPRESSION BY 0IUS )) IN )T RETAINS ITS 2OMANESQUE CHURCH AND A MAG NIlCENT THREE TIERED CLOISTER EXECUTED IN PANELS OF BLACK AND WHITE MARBLE 4HE CAPITALS OF THE LOWER TIER IN PARTICULAR ARE OUTSTANDING THEIR STYLE AND SUBJECT MATTER FANTASTIC ANIMALS AND /LD 4ESTAMENT STORIES RECALLING THE &RENCH INmU ENCED WORK AT 3ANT!NTIMO SEE P !BANDONED IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY THE COMPLEX WAS BOUGHT PRIVATELY IN )T IS SCARCELY EVER VISITED NOTE THAT OUTSIDE THE OPENING HOURS ITS KEPT lRMLY LOCKED AND NOBODY LOCAL HAS A KEY .EARBY "RENNA MAKES AN IDEAL PICNIC LUNCH AND SWIM STOP ON THE BANKS OF THE 2IVER -ERSE 2OSIA VILLAGE HAS A SUPERMARKET AND A COUPLE OF BARS FOR SAND WICHES
\ 3AN 'ALGANO AND THE WESTERN CRETE
3AN 'ALGANO 4HE !BBAZIA DI 3AN 'ALGANO MIDWAY BETWEEN -ASSA AND 3IENA IS AMONG THE GREATEST 'OTHIC BUILDINGS IN )TALY )T IS CERTAINLY THE MOST ROMANTIC n ROOF LESS WITH A GRASS lELD FOR A NAVE PATCHES OF FRESCO AMIDST THE VEGETATION AND PANORAMAS OF THE SKY CLOUDS AND HILLS THROUGH A ROSE WINDOW )F YOU HAVE EVER SEEN !NDREI 4ARKOVSKYS lLM .OSTALGIA IT WILL BE IMMEDIATELY FAMILIAR FROM THE lNALE IN WHICH THE DIRECTOR TRANSFORMED THE NAVE INTO A 2USSIAN LANDSCAPE COMPLETE WITH A DACHA )N THE TWELFTH AND THIRTEENTH CENTURIES 3AN 'ALGANO n WHICH WAS ONE OF THE #ISTERCIANS TWO LARGEST FOUNDATIONS IN )TALY n WAS THE LEADING MONASTIC POWER IN 4USCANY )TS ABBOTS RULED OVER DISPUTES BETWEEN THE CITIES AND AT 3IENA ITS MONKS SUPERVISED THE BUILDING OF THE $UOMO AND HELD POSTS AS CASALINGHI ACCOUNTANTS FOR THE COMUNE 4HE MONKS WERE A MIX OF )TALIANS AND &RENCH AND THROUGH THEM THE IDEAS OF 'OTHIC BUILDING WERE IMPORTED TO )TALY ALONG WITH SOPHISTICATED SCHEMES FOR LAND DRAINAGE AND AGRICULTURE !S AT ALL #ISTERCIAN HOUSES THE MONASTIC POPULA TION INCLUDED LARGE NUMBERS OF LAY BROTHERS WHO DEDICATED THEMSELVES TO MANUAL LABOUR WHILE THE hCHOIR MONKSv LOOKED AFTER THE PRAYER AND STUDY 4HE ABBEY
4HE #ISTERCIAN ORDER BUILT THE CHURCH AND ABBEY DAILY AMnPM /CTn!PRIL CLOSES PM FREE BETWEEN AND AT WHICH TIME THE COMPLEX MUST HAVE LOOKED LIKE A SMALL TOWN WITH ITS NUMEROUS WORKSHOPS DORMITORIES AND GUEST QUARTERS (OWEVER AT THE END OF THE CENTURY DURING THE WARS BETWEEN THE 4USCAN CITIES THE %NGLISH CONDOTTIERE 3IR *OHN (AWKWOOD AND HIS MERCENARY TROOPS SACKED THE ABBEY AND BY THE ABBOT WAS 3AN 'ALGANOS SOLE OCCUPANT $URING THE lFTEENTH CENTURY IT WAS REPOPULATED FOR A WHILE UNTIL THE PAPACY HANDED ITS INCOME TO A PARTICULARLY PROmIGATE CARDINAL 4HE MONKS LEFT AND THE BUILDING GRADUALLY DECAYED THE CAMPANILE ACTUALLY COLLAPSED DURING A -ASS ATTENDED BY VILLAGERS
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4HE VAST CHURCH WITH ITS SEVENTY METRE NAVE AND SHORED UP AISLES NOW ENCLOSES LITTLE MORE THAN A STONE ALTAR "IRDS HOVER ABOUT THE GLASSLESS WINDOWS AND CAPITALS /UTSIDE THERE ARE BRIEF RUNS OF CLOISTER AND A FEW CONVENTUAL BUILD INGS PART OCCUPIED BY MEMBERS OF THE #OMMUNITÌ )NCONTRO WHO ARE RESPON SIBLE FOR THE MAINTENANCE OF THE ABBEY AND ITS SURROUNDS 4HE MONASTERY COMMEMORATES 3T 'ALGANO 'UIDOTTI A NOBLE FROM THE NEARBY VILLAGE OF #HIUSDINO WHO SPENT HIS YOUTH IN THE USUAL SAINTLY APPREN TICESHIP OF DISSIPATION AND BATTLES 5PON HAVING A VISION OF 3T -ICHAEL HE RENOUNCED THE LIFE OF A KNIGHT AND EMBARKED ON A CAREER AS A HERMIT (IS CON VICTION WAS FORTIlED BY A KIND OF REVERSED SWORD IN THE STONE MIRACLE WHEN DURING A VISIT FROM HIS FAMILY AND FELLOW KNIGHTS WHO TRIED TO PERSUADE HIM TO RETURN TO THE WORLD HE RAN HIS SWORD INTO A ROCK BESIDE HIS HUT IT STUCK FAST FORMING A CRUCIlX )N AT THE AGE OF 'ALGANO DIED AND WITHIN FOUR YEARS HAD BEEN CANONIZED 4HE SAINTS HERMITAGE WAS TRANSFORMED INTO THE CIRCULAR #APPELLA DI -ONTE 3IEPI n THE BUILDING ON THE HILL ABOVE THE MAIN ABBEY n BETWEEN AND WITH THE SWORD IN THE STONE FORMING THE CENTREPIECE 4HE CHAPEL WAS DESIGNED AS A MAUSOLEUM BUT 'ALGANOS BODY HAS BEEN LOST THOUGH HIS HEAD IS PRESERVED IN THE 3IENA CATHEDRAL MUSEUM )N THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY A 'OTHIC SECOND CHAPEL WAS ADDED TO THE ORIGINAL 2OMANESQUE CHAPEL AND IN THE S A RECTORY WAS ATTACHED THE THREE FORMING A RUSTIC FARMHOUSE LIKE GROUP )T IS WELL WORTH THE CLIMB UP THE HILL AS MUCH FOR THE VIEWS OVER THE ABBEY AS FOR THE CHAPELS THEMSELVES 4HE INTERIOR OF THE ROTUNDA IS INTERESTING FOR ITS STRANGE STRIPED DOME AND THE SIDE CHAPEL HAS PATCHES OF FRESCOES BY !MBROGIO ,OREN ZETTI INCLUDING A JUST ABOUT DISCERNIBLE IMAGE OF 'ALGANO OFFERING THE ROCK EMBEDDED SWORD TO 3T -ICHAEL
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9 3AN 'ALGANO AND THE WESTERN CRETE
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4O ONE SIDE OF THE ABBEY IN THE OLD VAULTED SCRIPTORIUM IS A SMALL TOURIST OFlCE DAILY SUMMER AMnPM WINTER AMnPM nPM PROLOCOCHIUSDINO TINIT WHICH HAS SOME USEFUL LOCAL
INFORMATION AND SELLS TICKETS FOR THE OCCASIONAL !CCADEMIA #HIGIANA AND !SSOCI AZIONE -ONFARDINI CONCERTS HELD IN THE ABBEY !CCOMMODATION IS IN THE VILLAGE OF 0ALAZZETTO KM SOUTH ON THE -ASSA ROAD AT THE "AR !LBERGO )L 0ALAZZETTO WHICH ALSO HAS A GOOD INEXPENSIVE RESTAURANTPIZZERIA CLOSED 7ED AS WELL AS BAR SNACKS
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3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
\ 3AN 'ALGANO AND THE WESTERN CRETE
&ROM 3AN 'ALGANO YOU CAN CUT ACROSS TO THE . 3IENAn'ROSSETO ROAD BY MEANS OF A MINOR ROAD THAT LEAVES THE . AT THE WALLED VILLAGE OF -ONTICIANO 4HE ROAD EAST OF -ONTICIANO IS ATTRACTIVE IF UNREMARKABLE TWISTING ITS WAY THROUGH WOODED HILLS BEFORE lNALLY EMERGING ON THE . ABOUT KM SOUTH OF 3IENA 3OUTH FROM HERE THE . FOLLOWS THE 2IVER -ERSE BEFORE REARING INTO THE HILLS BY WAY OF VARIOUS VIADUCTS 4O REACH THE SPA OF "!'.) $) 0%42)/,/ YOU NEED TO TURN RIGHT AFTER ABOUT KM THEN FOLLOW THIS ROAD FOR KM NO BUSES DOWN TO A BRIDGE BESIDE THE 2IVER &ARMA A TRIBUTARY OF THE /MBRONE AND A ROUGH ENCLOSURE OF HUGE MEDIEVAL WALLS (ERE ON THE LEFT IS A TINY THERMAL STATION OFFERING TREATMENTS !PRILn.OV WWWTERMESALUTEAMBIENTE COM *UST BELOW THE BRIDGE ON THE LEFT THE SPAS SULPHUR SPRINGS CONTINUE TO mOW FREELY INTO LITTLE ROCK POOLS BEFORE MIXING WITH THE RIVER )F YOURE GOING FOR A SOAK YOU SHOULD LEAVE YOUR CLOTHES WELL AWAY FROM THE SULPHUR AND WASH OFF AFTERWARDS WITH A DIP IN THE RIVER 9OURE UNLIKELY TO HAVE THE PLACE TO YOURSELF BUT ITS A GOOD BASE FROM WHICH TO WALK INTO THE 2ISERVA .ATURALE DEL "ASSO -ERSE ALONG THE RIVER AND VISIT THE PICTURESQUE VILLAGE OF 0ARI NEARBY !T THE SPA THERES A SUMMER ONLY SANDWICH BAR FOR SNACKS AND DRINKS 4HE HOTEL ,)MPOSTO BACK UP THE HILL NEAR THE MAIN ROAD HAS A MODERATELY PRICED RESTAURANT 4HE -URLO VILLAGES
7ITH TRANSPORT YOU CAN FOLLOW A PAVED TRACK OFF THE 0ETRIOLO ROAD THROUGH THE HILLS TO #!3#)!./ $) -52,/ THE TRACK RUNS ALONGSIDE A FORMIDABLE ESTATE THAT IS FENCED OFF TO PROTECT ITS WOODLAND AND SHOOTING 3CARCELY MORE THAN A HAMLET #ASCIANO HAS A ROOM THREE STAR HOTEL THE -IRELLA WWWHOTELMIRELLACOM A RIDING CENTRE AND A CAMP SITE ,E 3OLINE WWWLESOLINEIT OPEN YEAR ROUND LOCATED AT NEARBY #ASAFRANCI ! lNE PLACE TO BREAK YOUR JOURNEY OR BASE YOURSELF FOR A FEW DAYS #ASCIANO IS ALSO EASILY REACHED FROM THE . ITS KM FROM THE TURNING %AST OF #ASCIANO A VERY HIGH AND BEAUTIFUL ROAD LEADS INTO THE BEGINNINGS OF THE CRETE WITH HILLS PUNCTUATED BY THE OCCASIONAL LAKE AND FARMHOUSE ON THE APPROACH TO 6%3#/6!$/ $) -52,/ 4HERES LITTLE REASON TO STOP AT 6ESCO VADO A LARGELY MODERN VILLAGE BUT IT HAS A HOTEL WITH SWIMMING POOL THE THREE STAR -URLO 6IA -ARTIRI DI 2IGOSECCO WWWALBERGODIMURLO COM ROADSIDE SIGNS FOR WHICH YOULL HAVE SEEN DOTTED ACROSS HALF OF SOUTHERN 4USCANY 4HERES ALSO AGRITURISMO ACCOMMODATION AT 0ALAZZINA WWWLAPALAZZINACOM n DEPENDING ON SIZE OF APARTMENT A FARMHOUSE BETWEEN #ASCIANO AND 6ESCOVADO *UST A COUPLE OF KILOMETRES SOUTH OF 6ESCOVADO IS -52,/ n A TINY MEDIEVAL BORGO WHOSE RING OF HOUSES FORMS DEFENSIVE WALLS ENCLOSING THE TOWN HALL AND CHURCH 4HE OLDEST SETTLEMENT IN THE AREA -URLOS %TRUSCAN PAST IS COMMEMO RATED IN THE -USEO %TRUSCO HOUSED IN THE #ASTELLO DI -URLO !PRILn3EPT
-ONTE /LIVETO AND THE CENTRAL CRETE
"UONCONVENTO "5/.#/.6%.4/ IS THE MOST OBVIOUS BASE IF YOU ARE VISITING -ONTE /LIVETO -AGGIORE AND TRAVELLING ON SOUTH 4HE SMALL TOWN LOOKS UNREMITTINGLY INDUSTRIAL AS YOU APPROACH BUT ONCE THROUGH THE SUBURBS YOU COME UPON A PERFECT WALLED MEDIEVAL VILLAGE )N ITS DAY THIS WAS ONE OF 3IENAS KEY OUTER DEFENCES AND IT WAS HERE IN THAT %MPEROR (ENRY 6)) OF ,UXEMBOURG EN ROUTE TO BESIEGE 3IENA FAMOUSLY DIED OF MALARIA EXHAUSTION OR n IN SOME VERSIONS n BEING FED A POISONED (OST DURING -ASS 4HIS WAS A MAN WHOM $ANTE AMONG OTHERS HAD SEEN AS THE SAVIOUR OF )TALY $ANTE PARTICULARLY WISHED THE EMPEROR TO ATTACK &LORENCE FROM WHICH HE WAS THEN EXILED n HE RATHER LOQUACIOUSLY EQUATED THE EMPERORS ARRIVAL WITH THAT OF THE hLAMB OF 'OD WHO REMOVES THE SINS OF THE WORLDv 4HE OLD CENTRE IS CHARACTERISTICALLY 3IENESE WITH ITS BRICK BASTIONS TOWN HALL AND WORKS OF ART n MOST OF WHICH HAVE BEEN REMOVED FROM LOCAL CHURCHES TO THE EXCELLENT AND LITTLE KNOWN -USEO D!RTE 3ACRA DELLA 6AL D!RBIA IN THE MAIN STREET OF THE OLD QUARTER AT 6IA 3OCCINI MID -ARCH TO MID /CT 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM REST OF THE YEAR 3AT 3UN AMnPM nPM + 0RIDE OF PLACE IN THE CHARMING MUSEUM n WHICH ON ITS OWN IS WORTH THE TROUBLE OF PULLING INTO TOWN n GOES TO A SMALL -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH !NGELS BY -ATTEO DI 'IOVANNI WHOSE KNOWING -ARY MUST SURELY BE A PORTRAIT /THER WORKS INCLUDE A -ADONNA AND #HILD ATTRIBUTED TO $UCCIO A -ADONNA AND 3AINTS n AND #ORONATION OF THE 6IRGIN BY 3ANO DI 0IETRO
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4HE HEARTLAND OF THE CRETE IS THE AREA SOUTHEAST OF 3IENA AROUND THE "ENEDIC TINE MONASTERY OF -ONTE /LIVETO -AGGIORE n ARGUABLY 4USCANYS lNEST 4HE REGION IS STUDDED WITH LONELY CYPRESSES ON SUN BAKED CLAY HILLS AND CONTAINS ALL THE OTHER CLASSIC 4USCAN IMAGES 4HE ABBEY IS REACHED EASILY ENOUGH BY CAR VIA !SCIANO OR "UONCONVENTO KM DISTANT TO THE NORTH AND WEST RESPECTIVELY -ONTALCINO TOO IS ONLY KM DISTANT TO THE SOUTH AND MAKES AN EXCELLENT BASE FOR THE WHOLE DISTRICT 9OU CAN GET TO !SCIANO OR "UONCONVENTO BY TRAIN OR BUS FROM 3IENA THOUGH YOULL HAVE TO HITCH MORE PROMISING FROM "UONCONVENTO OR HIKE PRETTIER FROM !SCIANO THE REST OF THE WAY
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9 -ONTE /LIVETO AND THE CENTRAL CRETE
4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM -ARCH /CT 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM .OVn&EB 4UESn&RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM nPM WWW COMUNEMURLOSIENAIT + %XHIBITS INCLUDE SPHINX STATUES A LARGE TER RACOTTA TOMB FRIEZE DEPICTING HUNTING SCENES AND SOME ODD BOWLS DECORATED WITH WARRIORS HOLDING WOMEN WHOSE LEGS FORM THE HANDLES 4HE MUSEUM ALSO DOUBLES AS THE VILLAGES TOURIST OFlCE SAME HOURS AS MUSEUM 3OUTH OF -URLO A TRACK LEADS TO AN EVEN SMALLER BORGO THE TEN HOUSE ,! "%&! WHICH HAS A RENOWNED MODERATELY PRICED OSTERIA CLOSED 7ED SET IN RICH MUSHROOM TERRITORY !T 6ESCOVADO OR -URLO YOURE WITHIN EASY STRIKING DISTANCE OF "UONCONVENTO AND NEAR ENOUGH TO !SCIANO -ONTALCINO OR 3IENA 4HE -ONTALCINO ROUTE IS LOVELY AS IS THE SUPERBLY SCENIC !SCIANO ROAD TAKING YOU INTO THE HEART OF THE CRETE ACROSS SPARSELY POPULATED COUNTRYSIDE *UST OFF THE . WHICH YOU NEED TO JOIN FOR A FEW KILOMETRES BEFORE HEADING EAST TO !SCIANO THERE ARE ROOMS AT THE "ORGO !NTICO WWWHOTELBORGOANTICOCOM IN THE MEDI EVAL HAMLET OF ,UCIGNANO D!RBIA
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A LOVELY FOUR PANELLED !NNUNCIATION BY !NDREA DI "ARTOLO THE CURIOUS -ADONNA DEL ,ATTE BY ,UCA DI 4OMMÒ SHOWING A BREAST FEEDING -ADONNA AND AN !NNUNCIATION n BY "ENVENUTO DI 'IOVANNI A &LORENTINE INmUENCED WORK THAT STRIKES AN ANOMALOUS NOTE AMONG THE SURROUNDING 3IENESE TREASURES !N INTERESTING NEW MUSEUM THE -USEO DELLA -EZZADRIA 4UESn3UN AMn PM WWWMUSEOMEZZADRIAIT HAS OPENED IN 0IAZZALE 'ARIBALDI WITH VARIED DISPLAYS DEVOTED TO THE REGIONS RURAL AND SOCIAL HISTORY 4HE MUSEUM OCCUPIES A SUPERB BRICK VAULTED SPACE A LATE MEDIEVAL GRANARY BUILT IN AND AROUND PART OF THE TOWNS OLD WALLS .UMEROUS ORIGINAL OBJECTS AND ARTEFACTS DOCUMENT AN ALMOST VANISHED AGRARIAN WORLD AND ONE THAT MOST 4USCAN FAMILIES WOULD HAVE LIVED VIRTUALLY UNCHANGED FOR GENERATIONS UNTIL ABOUT lFTY YEARS AGO 4HE SECOND mOOR CONTAINS PART OF A RECONSTRUCTED hCASA COLONICAv THE CLASSIC RURAL 4USCAN FARMHOUSE OFFERING A VIVID GLIMPSE INTO THE LIFE AND LIVING CONDITIONS OF 4USCAN PEASANT FARMERS 4HESE ATTRACTIONS ASIDE "UONCONVENTO MAKES AN ENJOYABLE STOP 9OU CAN GET HERE EASILY BY TRAIN OR BUS FROM 3IENA -ONTALCINO AND ELSEWHERE THERE ARE ALSO A COUPLE OF FAST THROUGH TRAINS TO &LORENCE AND 'ROSSETO DAILY THIS BEING ONE OF THE KEY STATIONS FOR SOUTHERN 4USCANY 9OU CAN GET TOURIST INFORMATION AT 0IAZZALE 'ARIBALDI 4UESn3UN AMnPM OR AT THE COMUNE COUNCIL OFlCE AT 6IA 3OCCINI )F YOU NEED TO STAY n AND THERE ARE WORSE OVERNIGHT STOPS IF YOURE TRAVELLING FAR AND DONT WANT TO GET TANGLED UP IN 3IENA n THE TOWN HAS TWO HOTELS THE 2OMA 6IA 3OCCINI WITH AN INEXPENSIVE RESTAURANT NEXT DOOR THAT REPRESENTS A PERFECT PIECE OF OLD FASHIONED S )TALIANA AND THE THREE STAR 'HIBELLINO IN 6IA $ANTE !LIGHIERI WWWHOTELGHIBELLINOIT 4HE LIVELY WEEKLY MARKET 3AT AMnPM IS HELD IN 0IAZZA 'RAMSCI AND THERES AN ANTIQUES FAIR ON THE LAST 3UNDAY OF EACH MONTH !LTERNATIVE ACCOMMODATION NEAR "UONCONVENTO IS OFFERED BY THE 0IEVE A 3ALTI FARM WWWPIEVEASALTIIT AT 0IEVE A 3ALTI SIGNED FROM "UONCONVENTO PART OF THE AGRITURISMO SCHEME 5P IN THE HILLS JUST KM EAST OF TOWN ITS COMFORTABLE AND WELCOMING AND THE BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED SWIM MING POOL HAS VIEWS OVER WHAT SEEMS LIKE HALF OF SOUTHERN 4USCANY 9OU CAN RENT ROOMS FOR THE NIGHT OR SIMPLE SELF CONTAINED APARTMENTS IN THE RUSTIC HOUSES DOTTED ACROSS THE ESTATE -EALS ARE AVAILABLE IN THE COSY CENTRAL HOUSE
-ONTE /LIVETO -AGGIORE
4HE !BBAZIA DI -ONTE /LIVETO -AGGIORE KM SOUTHEAST OF 3IENA IS SITED IN ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL TRACTS OF 3IENESE COUNTRYSIDE !PPROACHING FROM "UONCONVENTO YOU CLIMB THROUGH FORESTS OF PINE OAK AND CYPRESS AND THEN INTO THE OLIVE GROVES THAT ENCLOSE THE MONASTERY &ROM THE EAST COMING THROUGH !SCIANO OR 3AN 'IOVANNI D!SSO THE ROAD PASSES THROUGH PERHAPS THE WILDEST SECTION OF ALL THE CRETE )T ALL APPEARS MUCH AS IT WOULD HAVE TO 0OPE 0IUS )) WHO IN EULOGIZED THE WOODS AND GARDENS THAT THE MONKS HAD CREATED FROM THE CHALK HILLS AND THE WAY THE RUSSET COLOURED BRICK BUILDINGS MERGED WITH THEIR SETTING !LSO PRESERVED HERE IS ONE OF THE MOST ABSORBING 2ENAISSANCE FRESCO CYCLES THAT YOULL lND ANYWHERE A ,IFE OF 3T "ENEDICT PAINTED BY 3ODOMA AND ,UCA 3IGNORELLI 4HE MONASTERY HAD BEEN FOUNDED A CENTURY AND A HALF BEFORE 0IUSS VISIT BY ONE 'IOVANNI 4OLOMEI ! 3IENESE NOBLE 'IOVANNI WAS A MAJOR POLITICAL FORCE
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IN 3IENA WHO RENOUNCED ALL WORLDLY GOODS AFTER BEING STRUCK BLIND AND EXPE RIENCING VISIONS OF THE 6IRGIN !DOPTING THE NAME "ERNARDO HE CAME WITH TWO COMPANIONS TO THE CRETE AND LIVED THE LIFE OF A HERMIT 4HEY SOON DREW A FOLLOWING IN THIS HEYDAY OF MONASTICISM AND WITHIN SIX YEARS THE POPE RECOG NIZED THEM AS AN ORDER n THE /LIVETANS OR 7HITE "ENEDICTINES !TTEMPTING TO RECAPTURE THE SIMPLICITY OF THE ORIGINAL "ENEDICTINE RULE THESE lRST /LIVETANS WERE A REMARKABLE GROUP GOING OUT IN PAIRS DURING THE "LACK $EATH TO NURSE THE SICK AND MINISTER TO THE DYING IN ALL THE 3IENESE TOWNS $URING THE &EAST OF THE !SSUMPTION IN THEY ALL MET UP IN 3IENA n MIRACULOUSLY WITH NO CASUALTIES n AFTER THEIR MONTHS OF PERILOUS WORK THOUGH "ERNARDO DIED LATER IN THE YEAR AS DID MANY OF THE BROTHERS 4HE REMAINING MONKS REBUILT THE ORDER AND OVER THE FOLLOWING TWO CENTURIES -ONTE /LIVETO -AGGIORE WAS TRANSFORMED INTO ONE OF THE MOST POWERFUL MON ASTERIES IN THE LAND 0IUS )) HAD A PERSONAL REASON TO VISIT AS HIS RELATIVE !MBRO GIO 0ICCOLOMINI WAS ONE OF "ERNARDOS ORIGINAL COMPANIONS AND IN %MPEROR #HARLES 6 PAID A CALL TOGETHER WITH A TWO THOUSAND STRONG ARMY 4HE MONASTERY ONLY REALLY FELL FROM INmUENCE WITH THE NINETEENTH CENTURY SUPPRESSION OF THE )TALIAN ORDERS AND AFTER THE LAST WAR THE )TALIAN GOVERNMENT ALLOWED /LIVETAN MONKS TO REPOPULATE IT 4HEY HAVE LARGELY RESTORED THE BUILD INGS AND GARDENS WHICH THEY CONTINUE TO MAINTAIN AS A MONUMENT SUPPLEMENT ING THEIR STATE INCOME WITH A HIGHLY ADVANCED WORKSHOP IN RESTORING ANCIENT BOOKS 4HEY ALSO PRODUCE WINE HONEY OLIVE OIL AND A CURE ALL HERB LIQUOR &LORA DI -ONTE /LIVETO FOR SALE AT THE MONASTERY SHOP
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9 -ONTE /LIVETO -AGGIORE
5 4HE !BBAZIA DI -ONTE /LIVETO -AGGIORE
4HE MONASTERY
!T THE GATEHOUSE THERE IS A GOOD MODERATELY PRICED CAFÏ RESTAURANT ,A 4ORRE RESTAURANT CLOSED 4UES &ROM THE GATEWAY SURMOUNTED BY A SQUARE WATCHTOWER AND NICHES CONTAINING DELLA 2OBBIA TERRACOTTAS AN AVENUE OF CYPRESSES LEADS TO THE ABBEY /FF TO THE RIGHT SIGNS DIRECT YOU ALONG A WALK TO THE "LESSED "ERNAR DOS GROTTO n A CHAPEL BUILT ON THE SITE WHERE 4OLOMEI SETTLED AS A HERMIT
4HE ABBEY ITSELF DAILY AMnNOON nPM WINTER CLOSES PM IS A HUGE COMPLEX THOUGH MUCH OF IT REMAINS OFF LIMITS TO VISITORS GUIDED TOURS TAKE YOU TO THE LIBRARY DURING THE SAME HOURS AS THE ABBEY EXCEPT FROM .OVEMBER TO &EBRUARY WHEN IT IS ONLY OPEN AT WEEKENDS 4HE ENTRANCE LEADS PAST THE GIFT SHOP AND &ORESTERIA -ONASTICA OR HOSTEL AS IS THE "ENEDICTINE CUSTOM CLOSED .OV TO THE #HIOSTRO 'RANDE COVERED BY FRESCOES OF THE ,IFE OF 3T "ENEDICT THE MAN TRADITIONALLY REGARDED AS THE FOUNDER OF #HRISTIAN MONASTICISM 3ODOMA AND 3IGNORELLIS ,IFE OF 3T "ENEDICT
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
\ -ONTE /LIVETO -AGGIORE
4HE 3T "ENEDICT FRESCO CYCLE WAS BEGUN BY ,UCA 3IGNORELLI A PAINTER FROM #ORTONA WHO TRAINED UNDER 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCA BEFORE WORKING FOR THE PAPACY ON THE 3ISTINE #HAPEL (E WORKED AT -ONTE /LIVETO IN COMPLET ING NINE PANELS IN THE MIDDLE OF THE SERIES BEFORE ABANDONING THE WORK FOR A MORE STIMULATING COMMISSION AT /RVIETO #ATHEDRAL ,IKE MUCH OF HIS WORK ELSEWHERE THE SCENES SHOW A PASSIONATE INTEREST IN HUMAN ANATOMY WITH lGURES POSITIONED TO SHOW OFF THEIR MUSCULARITY TO MAXIMUM EFFECT ! FEW YEARS AFTER 3IGNORELLIS DEPARTURE !NTONIO "AZZI KNOWN AS )L 3ODOMA TOOK OVER PAINTING THE REMAINING SCENES BETWEEN AND 3ODOMA WAS FROM -ILAN AND FAMILIAR WITH ,EONARDOS WORK WHICH HE OFTEN EMULATED (OW HE TOOK HIS NICKNAME IS UNCLEAR 6ASARI SUGGESTS IT WAS APT SINCE hHE WAS ALWAYS SURROUNDED BY YOUNG MEN IN WHOSE COMPANY HE TOOK GREAT PLEASUREv THOUGH LETTERS BY 3ODOMA HIMSELF SPEAK OF THREE WIVES AND THIRTY CHILDREN 7HATEVER THE ARTIST WAS A COLOURFUL lGURE KEEPING AN EXTRAORDINARY MENAGERIE OF PETS h"ADGERS APES CAT A MOUNTAINS DWARF ASSES HORSES AND BARBS TO RUN RACES MAGPIES DWARF CHICKENS TORTOISES )NDIAN DOVESxv 3ODOMA BROUGHT A SIZEABLE CONTINGENT OF THESE PETS TO -ONTE /LIVETO INCLUDING A RAVEN WHICH IMITATED HIS VOICE AND THEY MAKE ODD APPEARANCES THROUGHOUT HIS COLOURFUL SENSUAL FRESCOES n A BADGER IS DEPICTED AT HIS FEET IN A SELF PORTRAIT IN THE THIRD PANEL 4HERES A NOTABLE EROTICISM TOO IN MANY OF THE SECULAR lGURES THE YOUNG MEN COMING TO JOIN "ENEDICT AS MONKS AND THE hEVIL WOMENv SEEN TEMPTING THE MONKS IN A PANEL TOWARDS THE END OF THE SERIES n THESE WERE ORIGINALLY NUDES BEFORE PROTESTS FROM THE ABBOT )F THE PANELS STRIKE YOU AS OF DIFFERING QUALITY YOU MIGHT GIVE CREDENCE TO 6ASARIS ANECDOTE THAT 3ODOMA COMPLAINED ABOUT THE MONEY HE WAS BEING PAID WHICH THE ABBOT SUBSEQUENTLY RAISED ON CONDITION THAT HE TOOK MORE CARE OVER THE REMAINING WORK THE lRST THREE HISTORICAL PANELS OF THE SEQUENCE 4HE CYCLE BEGINS ON THE EAST WALL ON THE RIGHT OF THE DOOR INTO THE CHURCH 3T "ENEDICT WHO WAS BORN IN .ORCIA IN IS DEPICTED IN EVENTS RECORDED IN 'REGORY THE 'REATS $IALOGUES )N THE EARLY PANELS HE IS SHOWN LEAVING HOME TO STUDY IN 2OME BEFORE WITHDRAWING TO THE LIFE OF A HERMIT WHERE HE EXPERI ENCES VARIOUS TRIBULATIONS AND TEMPTATIONS BEFORE AGREEING TO BECOME ABBOT TO A GROUP OF DISCIPLES (E WAS AN INDEFATIGABLE BUILDER OF MONASTERIES AND THE NEXT PANELS FOCUS ON THIS ACTIVITY THE FOUNDATION OF THE TWELVE HOUSES WHICH FORMED THE BASIS OF THE "ENEDICTINE ORDER AS WELL AS DEPICTIONS OF VARIOUS MIRACLES TO HELP IN THEIR CONSTRUCTION 4HE MID SEQUENCE OF THE CYCLE DEPICTS VARIOUS ATTEMPTS BY AN EVIL PRIEST &LORENTIUS TO DISRUPT THE SAINTS WORK HE TRIES lRST TO POISON "ENEDICT AND THEN SENDS IN THE TEMPTRESSES BEFORE 'OD STEPS IN AND mATTENS HIS HOUSE THE lRST OF 3IGNORELLIS PANELS 4HE FOLLOWING EIGHT SCENES PAINTED BY 3IGNORELLI DEPICT ASPECTS OF MONASTIC LIFE AND "ENEDICTS TRIAL BY n AND RECEPTION OF n 4OTILA KING OF THE 'OTHS BEFORE 3ODOMA TAKES OVER AGAIN WITH THE SAINT FORETELLING THE DESTRUCTION OF -ONTE #ASSINO THE CHIEF "ENEDICTINE HOUSE BY THE ,OMBARDS
-ORE SCENES OF MONASTIC LIFE FOLLOW INCLUDING THE BURIAL OF A MONK WHOM THE EARTH WOULD NOT ACCEPT ANOTHER MONKS ATTEMPTED ESCAPE "ENEDICT INTERCEPTS HIM WITH A SERPENT AND THE RELEASE OF A PEASANT PERSECUTED BY A 'OTH 4HE CHURCH LIBRARY AND REFECTORY
!SCIANO
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!3#)!./ KM NORTH OF -ONTE /LIVETO LIES ON A TINY BRANCH RAIL LINE BETWEEN 3IENA AND 'ROSSETO THAT TAKES YOU THROUGH MARVELLOUS CRETE COUNTRYSIDE 4HE RAILWAY STATION WHICH HAS NO TICKET OFlCE !SCIANO #ENTRO THERE IS ALSO AN !SCIANO 3CALO IS IN 6IA 2OMA 4HE ROAD APPROACH THE . FROM 3IENA IS STILL MORE SCENIC WITH SCARCELY A HAMLET AMID THE HILLS THIS ROUTE IS COVERED BY ONE BUS A DAY /F %TRUSCAN FOUNDATION !SCIANO IS lRST MENTIONED IN RECORDS IN )N THE NINTH CENTURY IT WAS RULED BY THE POWERFUL 3CIALENGHI COUNTS BUT IN PASSED TO 3IENA WHICH PROMPTLY ORDERED THE DESTRUCTION OF THE TOWNS FORTRESS )N IT FELL BRIEmY TO &LORENCE BUT WAS SOON RECAPTURED BY THE 3IENESE )TS MOST FAMOUS SON IS $OMENICO DI "ARTOLO n THE PAINTER RESPONSIBLE FOR THE FRESCO CYCLE IN 3IENAS 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA 3CALA SEE P 4HE TOWN IS PAR TIALLY WALLED AND SHELTERS A GLORIOUS PROVINCIAL MUSEUM )N THE RESTORED 0ALAZZO #ORBOLI AT #ORSO -ATTEOTTI STANDS THE -USEO #IVICO !RCHEOLOGICO E D!RTE 3ACRA 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM CLOSES PM .OVn-ARCH + WHICH LIKE THE MUSEUM IN "UONCONVENTO CONTAINS AN UNEXPECTED WEALTH OF 3IENESE PAINTINGS AND ON THE SECOND mOOR THE CONTENTS OF THE TOWNS FOR MER %TRUSCAN MUSEUM )T HAS A DOZEN OR SO WORKS BY MAJOR 3IENESE PAINTERS AMONG THEM !MBROGIO ,ORENZETTI 3ANO DI 0IETRO 4ADDEO DI "ARTOLO AND -ATTEO DI 'IOVANNI !T 6IA -AMELI THE -USEO #ASSIOLI OPEN ON REQUEST DISPLAYS PAINTINGS BY LOCAL ARTIST !MOS #ASSIOLI n &OR INFORMATION VISIT THE SUMMER ONLY TOURIST OFlCE AT #ORSO -ATTEOTTI 4HE TOWN HAS A REASONABLY PRICED THREE STAR HOTEL )L "ERSAGLIERE 6IA 2OMA n WWW HOTELLAPACENET AND A SLIGHTLY GRANDER CO OWNED SISTER HOTEL THE THREE STAR ,A 0ACE SAME DETAILS ABOUT M AWAY ,OCAL BARS PROVIDE BASIC FOOD THOUGH THE BEST RESTAURANT IN THE VICINITY IS THE MODERATELY PRICED ,A 0IEVINA WITH AN EXCELLENT VEGETARIAN MENU CLOSED -ON 4UES KM NORTH ALONG THE 3IENA ROAD AT THE HAMLET OF THE SAME NAME
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9 -ONTE /LIVETO -AGGIORE
4HE REST OF THE MONASTERY IS INEVITABLY OVERSHADOWED BY THE FRESCOES 4HE MAIN CHURCH n ENTERED OFF THE #HIOSTRO 'RANDE n WAS GIVEN A "AROQUE REMODELLING IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY AND SOME SUPERB STAINED GLASS IN THE TWENTIETH )TS MAIN TREASURE IS THE CHOIR STALLS INLAID BY 'IOVANNI DI 6ERONA AND OTHERS FROM TO WITH ARCHITECTURAL LANDSCAPE AND DOMESTIC SCENES INCLUDING A NOD TO 3ODOMAS PETS WITH A DEPICTION OF A CAT IN A WINDOW "ACK IN THE CLOISTER STAIRS LEAD UP PAST A 3ODOMA FRESCO OF THE 6IRGIN TO THE LIBRARY A lNE 2ENAISSANCE ARCADE LAVISHED WITH CARVINGS BY 'IOVANNI AND ASSOCIATES 3ADLY IT HAS HAD TO BE VIEWED FROM THE DOOR SINCE THE THEFT OF SIXTEEN CODICES IN !LSO ON VIEW IS THE REFECTORY A VAST ROOM FRESCOED WITH ALLEGORICAL AND /LD 4ESTAMENT lGURES WHICH GIVES SOME IDEA OF -ONTE /LIVETOS HEYDAY
3AN 'IOVANNI D!SSO AND EAST TO 3INALUNGA 4HE NEXT STOP ON THE TRAIN LINE FROM !SCIANO n AND ANOTHER POSSIBLE STARTING POINT TO HIKE TO -ONTE /LIVETO n IS 3!. ')/6!..) $!33/ A QUIET
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
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RUSTIC PLACE WHOSE MEDIEVAL PAST IS HINTED AT BY THE PRESENCE OF HALF A DOZEN CHURCHES 2OMANESQUE 3AN 0IETRO AN ELEVENTH CENTURY GEM IS THE MOST INTER ESTING AND THERES AN IMPOSING IF EXTREMELY BLUNT THIRTEENTH CENTURY CASTLE /NLY EVER A 3IENESE lEFDOM THE FORTRESS WAS INHABITED AT VARIOUS TIMES BY THE "UONSIGNORI WHOSE 3IENESE PALACE NOW HOUSES THE CITYS 0INACOTECA AND BY THE 3ALIMBENI WHOSE DYNASTIC SEAT IN THE CITY IS NOW THE HEADQUARTERS OF THE -ONTE DEI 0ASCHI BANK ,ATER IT BECAME A GRANARY AND IN TIME WAS GIVEN TO 3IENAS 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA 3CALA SEE P 4HE VILLAGE IS IN TRUFmE COUNTRY AND HAS A RECENTLY INAUGURATED MUSEUM DEVOTED TO THE TUBER THE lRST IN )TALY THE -USEO DEL 4ARTUFO MID -AY TO *UNE 3AT nPM 3UN AMnPM nPM *ULY !UG 3AT 3UN AMnPM nPM 3EPT TO MID -AY AMnPM nPM + HOUSED IN PART OF THE CASTLE AT 0IAZZA 'RAMSCI YOU CAN ALSO OBTAIN TOURIST INFORMATION HERE !S WELL AS INSIGHTS INTO TRUF mES THE MUSEUM ALSO OFFERS THE CHANCE TO ADMIRE SOME OF THE CASTLES AUSTERE BUT IN PARTS PRETTILY FRESCOED CHAMBERS %AST FROM 3AN 'IOVANNI A lNE THOUGH BUS LESS ROAD MEANDERS TOWARDS 3INALUNGA 4HE ATTRACTION HERE IS PRIMARILY THE LANDSCAPE n CLASSIC 4USCAN MINIATURES n THOUGH THE ROAD IS MARKED OUT BY A SERIES OF HILL TOP VILLAGES MOST OF THEM ENDOWED WITH A CASTLE AND A SMATTERING OF MEDIEVAL CHURCHES #!34%,-5:)/ KM FROM 3AN 'IOVANNI D!SSO WAS A FAVOURITE PREACHING GROUND FOR "ERNARDINO OF 3IENA WHOSE CONFRATERNITY HOUSES A SMALL -USEO D!RTE 3ACRA OPEN ON REQUEST THE SAINT IS ALSO DEPICTED IN PANELS BY 'IOVANNI DI 0AOLO HIS CLOSE FRIEND AND 'IOVANNIS PUPIL -ATTEO DI 'IOVANNI IN THE CHURCH OF 33 4RINITÌ E "ERNARDINO #LOSE BY IS ONE OF 4USCANYS OLDEST CHURCHES n THE EIGHTH CENTURY 0IEVE DI 3ANTO 3TEFANO IN #%. .!./ n WHILE AT NEIGHBOURING 0%42/)/ BUILT ON A CURIOUS CIRCULAR PLAN IS THE BEST CASTLE IN THE DISTRICT A THIRTEENTH CENTURY BRICK AFFAIR WHERE 3IENAS MAGISTRATES WERE OBLIGED TO LIVE FOR A PERIOD IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY ! FEW KILOMETRES TO THE NORTHEAST IS THE !BBADIA A 3ICILLE BUILT BY THE 4EMPLARS AS A HOSPICE ON THE PILGRIM ROAD TO 2OME 42%15!.$! A SLIGHTLY LARGER VILLAGE WITH A COUPLE OF RESTAURANTS AND BARS ALSO PRESERVES A GOOD SECTION OF ITS CASTLE )N THE CENTRAL SQUARE THE SIMPLE 2OMANESQUE PARISH CHURCH OF 33 0IETRO E !NDREA FRONTED BY A BROWN AND WHITE CHEQUERED STONE FACADE HAS A FRESCO BY 3ODOMA OF THE 4RANSlGURATION AND A HIGH ALTARPIECE OF THE -ADONNA AND 3AINTS BY 'IOVANNI DI 0AOLO 4HE INLAID WOODEN URN CONTAINS THE BODY OF "ONIZELLA 0IC COLOMINI n A MERE BEATIlC WHO NEVER REACHED THE HEIGHTS OF MORE ILLUSTRIOUS FAMILY DESCENDANTS SUCH AS !ENEAS 0ICCOLOMINI 0OPE 0IUS )) %AST OF 4REQUANDA YOU REACH 3).!,5.'! A MODERN THRIVING CENTRE WITH RAIL CONNECTIONS TO 3IENA !REZZO AND #HIUSI )T HAS ONE NOTABLE PAINTING n AN !NNUNCIATION BY "ENVENUTO DI 'IOVANNI n IN THE CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCESCO SITED BESIDE THE &RANCISCAN CONVENT AT THE TOP OF AN AVENUE OF CYPRESSES 4HE CHURCH SHOULD HAVE ANOTHER lNE PICTURE n A -ADONNA BY 3ANO DI 0IETRO n BUT THAT WENT MISSING IN AND HAS BEEN REPLACED BY A SAD FACSIMILE *UST OUT OF TOWN IN THE HAMLET SUBURB OF 0IEVE IS A PLEASANT HOTEL THE 3ANTOROTTO /THER GOOD VALUE HOTELS IN THESE PARTS ARE TO BE FOUND KM SOUTH AT THE NEXT RAIL STOP 4ORRITA DI 3IENA THE "ELVEDERE AND ,A 3TAZIONE 4HERE IS FURTHER ACCOMMODATION AT THE SPAS OF 2APOLANO 4ERME AND 4ERME 3AN 'IOVANNI NORTH OF 3INALUNGA ON THE 3IENA ROAD "OTH ARE MODERN UPMARKET PLACES OF LITTLE INTEREST TO ANYONE NOT VISITING hTO TAKE THE CUREv
-ONTALCINO -/.4!,#)./ KM SOUTH OF 3IENA IS A CLASSIC 4USCAN HILL TOWN SET WITHIN A FULL CIRCUIT OF WALLS AND WATCHED OVER BY A CASTLE OF ALMOST FAIRYTALE PERFECTION ! QUIET IMMEDIATELY LIKEABLE PLACE AFmUENT IN AN UNSHOWY WAY IT IS SCARCELY CHANGED IN APPEARANCE SINCE THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY )T LOOKS WONDERFUL FROM BELOW ITS WALLS BARELY SULLIED BY ANY MODERN BUILDING AND ONCE UP IN THE TOWN THE ROLLING HILLS VINEYARDS ORCHARDS OLIVE GROVES AND ANCIENT OAKS LOOK EQUALLY LOVELY IN TURN 7HILE THERE ARE FEW SPECIlC SIGHTS THE TOWN MAKES AN EXCELLENT BASE FOR MUCH OF SOUTHERN 4USCANY LYING WITHIN EASY STRIKING DISTANCE OF THE
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ABBEYS OF -ONTE /LIVETO AND 3ANT!NTIMO AND CLOSE TO THE TOWNS OF 0IENZA KM EAST AND -ONTEPULCIANO KM FARTHER 3OME HISTORY
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-ONTALCINOS ORIGINS ARE UNKNOWN THOUGH IT HAS PROBABLY BEEN INHABITED SINCE 0ALEOLITHIC OR %TRUSCAN TIMES .O ONE IS QUITE SURE WHERE ITS NAME COMES FROM THOUGH ITS COAT OF ARMS n A HOLM OAK ATOP SIX HILLS n SUGGESTS THAT IT DERIVES FROM THE ,ATIN -ONS )LCINUS THE -OUNT OF THE (OLM /AK 4HE lRST REFERENCE TO THE TOWN APPEARS IN WHEN IT IS MENTIONED IN A LIST OF TERRITORIES CEDED TO THE ABBEY OF 3ANT!NTIMO BY ,OUIS THE 0IOUS THE SON OF #HARLEMAGNE SEE P )T WAS PROBABLY ONLY PERMANENTLY SETTLED AROUND THE YEAR COLO NIZED BY FUGITIVES mEEING 3ARACEN ATTACKS ON THE -AREMMA COAST 4HE EXILES FOUR FAMILY GROUPS n THE "ORGHETTO 0IANELLO 2UCA AND 4RAVAGLIO n DElNED THE FOUR QUARTERS OR CONTRADE OF THE TOWN THE RIVAL mAGS STILL HANG OUTSIDE THE HOUSES AND THEY COMPETE AGAINST EACH OTHER IN TWICE YEARLY ARCHERY TOURNAMENTS 4HOUGH INDEPENDENT FOR MUCH OF ITS EARLY MEDIEVAL HISTORY THE TOWN SUC CUMBED TO 3IENESE RULE IN AFTER THE "ATTLE OF -ONTAPERTI HAVING PREVI OUSLY LOOKED TO &LORENCE FOR PROTECTION (AVING BEEN FORCED TO CHANGE SIDES THE TOWN EVENTUALLY TOOK ITS NEW RULERS TO HEART )N IT TOOK JUST TWO DAYS FOR ITS CITIZENS TO lGHT OFF A BESIEGING ARMY DISPATCHED BY 0OPE #LEMENT 6)) )N OVER A PERIOD OF FOUR MONTHS IT WITHSTOOD THE ATTACK OF A COMBINED 3PANISH AND -EDICI ARMY 4HE TOWNS lNEST HOUR HOWEVER CAME IN WHEN ON !PRIL THE VENERABLE 3IENESE 2EPUBLIC WAS FORCED ONCE AND FOR ALL TO CAPITULATE TO THE -EDICI ! GROUP OF 3IENESE EXILES SUPPORTED BY THE &RENCH THEN FORMED A LAST BASTION OF 3IENESE POWER IN -ONTALCINO mYING THE mAG OF THE OLD 2EPUBLIC FOR FOUR YEARS IN THE FACE OF ALMOST CONSTANT ATTACK 3URRENDER WAS ONLY COUNTENANCED FOLLOWING THE TREATY OF #ATEAU #AMBRÏSIS BETWEEN &RANCE AND 3PAIN 4HIS HEROIC INTERLUDE IS ACKNOWLEDGED AT THE 3IENA 0ALIO WHERE THE -ONTALCINO CONTINGENT UNDER THEIR MEDIEVAL BANNER PROCLAIMING h4HE 2EPUBLIC OF 3IENA IN -ONTALCINOv STILL TAKES PLACE OF HONOUR )N THE FOLLOWING CENTURIES THE TOWN DECLINED TO A POOR MALARIA STRICKEN VILLAGE !LTHOUGH THE MALARIA WAS SORTED OUT IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY IN THE S -ONTALCINO WAS STILL THE POOREST LOCALITY IN 3IENA .OW THE SECOND RICH EST ITS CHANGE IN FORTUNES IS DUE PRINCIPALLY TO THE REVIVAL AND MARKETING OF ITS WINES NOTABLY THE "RUNELLO WHICH IS RECKONED BY MANY THE lNEST IN )TALY 4HE PRODUCTION OF HIGH QUALITY HONEY AND OLIVE OIL AND INCOME FROM TOURISM ALSO PLAY A PART
!RRIVAL INFORMATION AND ACCOMMODATION
2OADS UP TO -ONTALCINO PERCHED M ABOVE SEA LEVEL WIND THROUGH BUCOLIC SWATHES OF VINEYARDS AND PRETTY PASTORAL COUNTRYSIDE NOTE THE DECORATIVE ROSES GROWN AT THE END OF MANY ROWS OF VINES VIEWS TO ALL SIDES ARE STUPENDOUS /NCE UP AT THE TOWN YOU lND YOURSELF ON A ROAD THAT RINGS THE WALLS "USES WILL STOP JUST BELOW THE 2OCCA IF YOU WISH BUT TERMINATE IN 0IAZZA #AVOUR AT THE NORTHERN END OF 6IA -AZZINI THE MAIN STREET EITHER POINT IS CONVENIENT FOR 0IAZZA DEL 0OPOLO THE CENTRE OF TOWN )F YOURE DRIVING AIM TO PARK EITHER IN THE SMALL PAY CAR PARK BY THE 2OCCA TAKE THE NARROW ROAD WHICH STRIKES THROUGH THE ARCH n THE 0ORTA AL #ASSERO n IN THE CASTLE WALLS OR ALTERNATIVELY USE THE LARGE FREE CAR PARK BELOW THE FORTRESS TAKE THE SECOND TURNING ON THE RIGHT AT THE MINI ROUNDABOUT BELOW THE 2OCCA 4HE SMALL n AND IT MUST BE SAID NOT TERRIBLY HELPFUL n TOURIST OFlCE IS LOCATED JUST UP FROM 0IAZZA DEL 0OPOLO AT #OSTA DEL -UNICIPIO 4UESn3UN
AMnPM nPM WWWPROLOCOMONTALCINOIT )T OFFERS LISTS OF ROOMS TO RENT AND FOREIGN EXCHANGE FACILITIES AS DOES THE -ONTE DEI 0ASCHI BANK IN 6IA -AZZINI WHICH HAS A CASH MACHINE NEXT DOOR FOR 6ISA AND -ASTERCARD WITHDRAWALS &OR LOCAL GUIDES MAPS AND A SMALL SELECTION OF %NGLISH LANGUAGE BOOKS VISIT THE EXCELLENT AND FRIENDLY BOOKSHOP AT 6IA -AT TEOTTI 4UESn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM nPM )T HAS A PARTICULARLY GOOD SELECTION OF LARGE SCALE LOCAL MAPS USEFUL FOR HIKING INCLUD ING THE -ULTIGRAPHIC 6AL D¼RCIA + AND THE +OMPASS 0IENZA-ONTALCINO-ONTE !MIATA + -ONTALCINOS WEEKLY MARKET IS HELD ON &RIDAYS AMnPM IN 6IALE DELLA ,IBERTÌ )F YOU NEED A TAXI OR A CAR WITH A DRIVER CALL
!CCOMMODATION
!LBERGO )L 'IGLIO 6IA 3OCCORSO 3ALONI WWWGIGLIOHOTELCOM ! LONG ESTABLISHED HOTEL IN A CENTRAL SIXTEENTH CENTURY TOWN HOUSE THAT HAD SEEN BETTER DAYS BUT HAS BEEN SPRUCED UP AND OFFERS PLEASANT CLEAN ROOMS SOME WITH TERRACES "ELLARIA 6IA /STICCIO WWW HOTELBELLARIAMONTALCINOIT 4HE LOCATION ABOUT KM OUT OF TOWN IS NOT IDEAL BUT THIS MODERN ROOM THREE STAR IS A GOOD FAMILY RUN CHOICE )T IS A MOD ERN CONSTRUCTION BUT COPIES THE TRADITIONAL STYLE AND MATERIALS OF A RURAL 4USCAN HOUSE #ASTELLO DI 6ELONA ,OCALITÌ #AS TELLO DI 6ELONA #ASTELNUOVO DELL!BATE WWWCASTELLODIVELONAIT 5NTIL THIS TWELFTH CENTURY hCASTLEv WAS LITTLE MORE
THAN A PILE OF RUBBLE NOW IT IS A SUPERB TWENTY ROOM FOUR STAR HOTEL ISOLATED IN LOVELY OPEN COUN TRYSIDE ON ITS OWN HILL AND RINGED BY CYPRESS )TS CLOSE TO #ASTELNUOVO DELL!BATE AND 3ANT!NTIMO ABOUT KM SOUTH OF -ONTALCINO %XPENSIVE BUT RATES DROP TO + IN LOW SEASON AND THERE ARE OFTEN WEB DEALS $EI #APITANI 6IA ,APINI WWWDEICAPITANIIT ! GOOD SLICK THREE STAR CHOICE WITH THE BONUS OF A SMALL SWIMMING POOL 4HE ROOMS VARY HOWEVER SOME ARE SMALLISH AND HAVE NO VIEW OTHERS LOOK OUT OVER MARVELLOUS COUNTRYSIDE !SK TO SEE A SELECTION
6ECCHIA /LIVIERA 6IA ,ANDI WWWVECCHIAOLIVIERA COM ,IKE $EI #APITANI A RELATIVELY NEW THREE STAR HOTEL BUT MORE EXPENSIVE AND NOT QUITE AS CENTRAL AS ITS RIVAL (OWEVER IT HAS A POOL ITS PATIO HAS EXCELLENT VIEWS AND THE ELEVEN lNE ROOMS FORM PART OF A WELL RESTORED FORMER OLIVE MILL CLOSE TO 0ORTA #ERBAIA AND THE WALLS ! DElNITE lRST CHOICE FOR A TREAT
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!LBERGO )L 'IARDINO 0IAZZA #AVOUR 4HE CHEAPEST HOTEL OPTION IN TOWN IS CHEAP FOR A REASON n ITS ROOMS A MIXED BAG OF TEN DOUBLES ARE PRETTY SPARSE AND THOSE FACING ONTO THE PIAZZA ARE LIKELY TO BE A LITTLE NOISY
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!CCOMMODATION IS SEVERELY LIMITED AND ITS WISE TO BOOK AHEAD AT ALMOST ANY TIME OF YEAR 4HERE IS ONLY A HANDFUL OF HOTELS THOUGH IF YOU HAVE TRANS PORT YOU COULD TRY ONE OR TWO TEMPTING PLACES IN THE COUNTRYSIDE NEARBY 0RIVATE ROOMS ARE MORE NUMEROUS AND LESS EXPENSIVE AND A FAR BETTER OPTION THAN IN MANY OTHER PLACES 4RY !FlTACAMERE -ARIUCCIA 0IAZZA DEL 0OPOLO WITH THREE DOUBLE ROOMS AND AN APARTMENT OR !NNA !FlT ACAMERE WHICH HAS lVE COMFORTABLE ROOMS WITH 46 AND PRIVATE BATHROOMS PLUS A FOUR BED APARTMENT n CONTACT OR CALL AT THE !LBERGO )L 'IGLIO SEE BELOW FOR DETAILS AND DIRECTIONS 4HERE ARE ALSO NUMEROUS PRIVATE ROOMS AND AGRITURISMO ROOMS IN THE COUNTRYSIDE IMMEDIATELY AROUND TOWN $ETAILS ARE AVAILABLE FROM THE TOURIST OFlCE
4HE 4OWN 7HEREVER YOU END UP THE TRIANGULAR 0IAZZA DEL 0OPOLO LIES ONLY A FEW MIN UTES WALK AWAY !N ODD LITTLE SQUARE IT IS SET BENEATH THE ELONGATED MEDIEVAL TOWER OF THE 0ALAZZO DEI 0RIORI OR 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE APPARENTLY MODELLED ON 3IENAS 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO #RESTS OF LONG FORGOTTEN DIGNITARIES DOT
THE WALLS WHILE THE STATUE BENEATH THE PORTICO SURPRISINGLY REPRESENTS THE REVILED -EDICI RULER #OSIMO ) n IT WAS SCULPTED JUST lVE YEARS AFTER -ONTAL CINO HAD SURRENDERED TO THE &LORENTINES )NSIDE THE TOWN HALL IS THE #ONSORZIO DI "RUNELLO WHICH HAS INFORMATION AND AN EXHIBITION ON THE HISTORY AND MAKING OF -ONTALCINOS FAMOUS "RUNELLO WINE SHOPS THE LENGTH AND BREADTH OF THE TOWN SELL THE STUFF MOST AT RIDICULOUSLY ELEVATED PRICES SEE P /CCUPYING OTHER SIDES OF THE SQUARE ARE AN ELEGANT 2ENAISSANCE DOUBLE LOGGIA ALMOST A REPRIMAND IN PROPORTIONAL ARCHITECTURE AND A WONDERFUL NINETEENTH CENTURY CAFÏ THE &IASCHETTERIA )TALIANA CLOSED 4HURS .OVn&EB 4HE CAFÏ IS THE HEART OF TOWN LIFE AND THE FOCUS INEVITABLY OF THE PASSEGGIATA ALONG 6IA -AZZINI /N BUSY SUMMER AFTERNOONS HOWEVER SERVICE CAN BE SLOW n NOT A PROBLEM IF ALL YOU WANT TO DO IS WATCH THE WORLD GO BY )F YOUVE WORKED UP A THIRST HOWEVER THE BAR TO THE RIGHT OF THE LOGGIA !LLE ,OGGE DI 0IAZZA CLOSED 7ED WHICH ALSO HAS OUTSIDE TABLES IS USUALLY QUICKER WITH LIQUID REFRESHMENT 3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
4HE 2OCCA
\ -ONTALCINO
&OLLOWING 6IA -AZZINIS CONTINUATION 6IA -ATTEOTTI OR 6IA 2ICASOLI AND CURV ING UP TO THE RIGHT YOU EMERGE AT THE SOUTH END OF TOWN BY THE 2OCCA !PRIL TO LAST 3UN IN /CT DAILY AMnPM .OVn-ARCH 4UESn3UN AMnPM FREE )T WAS BEGUN IN ON THE ORDERS OF THE 3IENESE BUT BY THE END OF THE lFTEENTH CENTURY THE ADVENT OF ARTILLERY HAD LEFT THE CASTLE ALL BUT REDUNDANT n NOT THAT THIS DISCOURAGED THOSE WHO DEFENDED IT DURING THE AND SIEGES 4HE RAMPARTS WERE ADDED BY #OSIMO ) IN TOGETHER WITH THE LARGE -EDICI CREST A SHIELD WITH SIX BALLS WHOSE PRESENT PERIPHERAL POSITION n TUCKED AWAY AT THE BACK ABOVE THE ROAD JUNCTION n IS SURELY NO ACCIDENT )MPRESSIVELY INTACT THE WALLS ENCLOSE A PUBLIC PARK AND IN HOUSE ENOTECA WWWENOTECALAFORTEZZAIT n A REASONABLE PLACE TO SAMPLE SOME OF THE FAMED "RUNELLO ALONG WITH BREAD CHEESE AND SALAMI THOUGH AT TIMES IT BECOMES HECTIC AND UNCOMFORTABLY CLOGGED WITH TOURISTS 4HE ENOTECA ALSO SELLS TICKETS FOR ACCESS TO THE RAMPARTS + JOINT TICKET WITH -USEO #IVICO + AND A GLIMPSE OF THE FAMOUS BANNER 4HE CASTLE VIEW IS SAID TO HAVE INSPIRED ,EONARDOS DRAWING OF A BIRDS EYE VIEW OF THE EARTH THE 6AL D¼RCIA IS EASILY MADE OUT AND ON A CLEAR DAY YOU CAN EVEN SEE 3IENA 4HE -USEO #IVICO E $IOCESANO
(EADING NORTH DOWN 6IA 2ICASOLI BRINGS YOU TO THE EXCELLENT -USEO #IVICO E $IOCESANO 4UESn3UN !PRILn/CT AMnPM .OVn-ARCH AMnPM nPM + JOINT TICKET WITH RAMPARTS + BUILT IN THE FORMER SEMINARY OF 3ANT!GOSTINO WITH A GRANT OF ALMOST a FROM THE %5 AND A MORE MODEST a FROM THE COMUNE (ERE THE OLD CIVIC AND DIOCESAN COLLECTIONS ARE FEATURED UNDER ONE ROOF FOR THE lRST TIME ,IKE MANY GALLERIES IN THE REGION THE QUALITY OF THE PAINTINGS ON SHOW IS OUT OF ALL PROPORTION TO THE SIZE OF THE TOWN -ONTALCINOS BEGINS WITH A SUPERB #RUCIlXION DATING FROM THE END OF THE TWELFTH CENTURY n ONE OF THE OLDEST PIECES OF 3IENESE ART IN EXISTENCE !N ANONY MOUS WORK IT WAS ORIGINALLY HUNG IN THE ABBEY AT 3ANT!NTIMO )T IS FOLLOWED BY A MORE MANNERED -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 4WO !NGELS A LOVELY ANONYMOUS LATE THIRTEENTH CENTURY WORK "ARTOLO DI &REDI HAS TWO WORKS ON SHOW AN ODDLY NARROW $EPOSITION AND A MORE CONVENTIONAL #ORONATION OF THE 6IRGIN 4HERES ALSO A -ADONNA AND #HILD BY "ARTOLOS COLLABORATOR ,UCA DI 4OMMÒ /NE OF THE GALLERYS MOST INTERESTING WORKS IS THE -ADONNA DELL5MILTÌ -ADONNA OF (UMILITY BY 3ANO DI 0IETRO A COMPARATIVELY RARE SUBJECT IN WHICH THE 6IRGIN IS SHOWN SITTING OR KNEELING ON A SIMPLE CUSHION RATHER THAN POISED ON A THRONE OR CHAIR )TS APPEARANCE DATES FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE
#HURCHES
7INE FOOD FESTIVALS AND TRANSPORT 3AMPLING -ONTALCINOS WINES IS EASILY DONE !PART FROM THE ENOTECA IN THE 2OCCA AND THE &IASCHETTERIA )TALIANA n WHICH HAS A SUPERB CANTINA AT THE BACK
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7ALKING A FEW PACES UP 6IA 2ICASOLI FROM THE MUSEUM BRINGS YOU TO THE CHURCH OF 3ANT!GOSTINO A SEVERE 'OTHIC 2OMANESQUE AFFAIR BEGUN IN 4HE BARN LIKE SINGLE NAVE IS DOTTED WITH PATCHES OF FRESCO THE MOST EXTENSIVE OF WHICH n AND WITH A WIDE VARIETY OF THEMES n COVER THE ARCHED PRESBYTERY AND ARE PROBABLY THE WORK OF "ARTOLO DI &REDI 4HE MOST INTERESTING PICTURES HOWEVER ARE TWO ANONYMOUS PANELS OF 3CENES FROM THE 0ASSION /NE ON THE LEFT WALL ALSO SHOWS 3T !NTHONY !BBOT SHARING BREAD WITH A CURIOUSLY ATTIRED 3T !UGUSTINE THE SECOND TO THE RIGHT OF THE SIDE ENTRANCE IS AN EXTRAORDINARY AND ALMOST SURREAL COLLECTION OF DISEMBODIED HEADS AND SYMBOLS .OTE THE MOON AND SUN WHICH IN PAINTINGS OF THE 0ASSION OR #RUCIlXION SERVE AMONG OTHER THINGS TO SYMBOLIZE THE ANGUISH OF ALL CREATION AT THE DEATH OF #HRIST 4O THE NORTH 6IA 3PAGNI TAKES YOU PAST THE $UOMO OR 3AN 3ALVATORE AN ELEVENTH CENTURY 2OMANESQUE CHURCH HORRENDOUSLY REMODELLED IN .EOCLAS SICAL STYLE BETWEEN AND BY AN ARCHITECT APTLY CALLED &ANTASTICI ITS INTERIOR IS UNARRESTING HOWEVER SAVE FOR AN IMPRESSIVE LITTLE PYRAMID OF RELIEFS IN THE BAPTISTERY CHAPEL SALVAGED FROM THE ORIGINAL CHURCH 6IA 3PAGNI CONTINUES TO EMERGE IN FRONT OF THE DISTINCTIVE 2ENAISSANCE 3ANTUARIO DELLA -ADONNA DEL 3OCCORSO A SEVENTEENTH CENTURY SANCTUARY BUILT OVER AN ANCIENT CHAPEL ITS CHIEF APPEAL IS THE SENSATIONAL VIEW FROM THE ADJOINING PARK $ROP DOWN 6IALE 2OMA TO 0IAZZA #AVOUR AND POP INTO 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA #ROCE A HOSPITAL FOUNDED IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY MORE RECENTLY APPROPRIATED BY THE LOCAL COUNCIL *UST INSIDE THE MAIN ENTRANCE IS THE FORMER PHARMACY STILL COVERED IN A PRETTY LITTLE ARRAY OF ORIGINAL FRESCOES .EARBY FACING THE 0ORTA #ASTELLANA IS A MEDIEVAL WASHHOUSE THE &ONTE #ASTELLANE AND BEYOND IT THE DECONSECRATED CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCESCO GRACED WITH PLEASANT CLOISTERS DELLA 2OBBIA SCHOOL TERRACOTTAS AND AN ANNEXE THAT WAS ONCE A MEDIEVAL HOSPITAL
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FOURTEENTH CENTURY AND COINCIDED WITH THE IDEAS PROMULGATED BY THE MORE RADICAL WING OF THE &RANCISCAN ORDER WHICH ADVOCATED A RETURN TO THE MORE RIG OROUS AND HUMBLE OUTLOOK OF THE lRST &RANCISCANS 4WO PAINTINGS BY 'IROLAMO DI "ENVENUTO n ALSO MERIT A CLOSE LOOK AN !DORATION OF THE 3HEPHERDS WITH UGLY SHEPHERD AND FRACTIOUS #HILD AND THE MORE SPECTACULAR AND UNUSUAL -ADONNA DELLA #INTOLA 4HE LATTER CONCERNS THE !POSTLE 4HOMAS WHO ACCORD ING TO LEGEND CAST DOUBT ON THE !SSUMPTION INTO (EAVEN OF THE 6IRGIN HENCE hDOUBTING 4HOMASv 4O ASSUAGE HIS WORRIES HE OPENED HER TOMB WHICH HE FOUND COVERED IN mOWERS n BEAUTIFULLY DEPICTED IN THIS PAINTING #ASTING HIS EYES UPWARDS HE THEN SAW THE 6IRGIN WHO REMOVED HER BELT OR GIRDLE CINTOLA AND LET IT FALL INTO THE HANDS OF THE KNEELING 4HOMAS 4HE SUBJECT WAS PARTICULARLY POPULAR IN 4USCANY n !GNOLO 'ADDI FOR EXAMPLE DEVOTED AN ENTIRE FRESCO CYCLE TO THE THEME IN 0RATO WHICH CLAIMS TO HAVE THE GIRDLE IN QUESTION SEE P !MONG THE GALLERYS SCULPTURES AND MISCELLANEOUS ARTEFACTS MAKE A SPECIAL POINT OF LOOKING FOR THE PAIR OF ILLUMINATED TWELFTH CENTURY "IBLES AND THE RARE POLYCHROME WOODEN STATUE 3T 0ETER ONE OF THE FEW DOCUMENTED WORKS OF THE SCULPTOR &RANCESCO DI 6ALDAMBRINO IT WAS COMMISSIONED IN AND GIVEN BY 0IUS ))) TO THE TOWNS #ONFRATERNITY OF 3T 0ETER 9OULL ALSO NOTICE AN ALMOST COMI CAL !NNUNCIATION AN EARLY lFTEENTH CENTURY 5MBRO 3IENESE WORK IN WHICH THE PUPPET LIKE 'ABRIEL AND THE 6IRGIN SPORT IMPOSSIBLY ROSY CHEEKS AND BEAUTIFULLY MANNERED HAIRSTYLES
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5 "RUNELLO DI -ONTALCINO GRAPES
\ -ONTALCINO
n THERE ARE HALF A DOZEN CHEAPER CAFÏ BARS WITH GOOD STOCKS !T 6IA -ATTEOTTI THERES THE "AR -ARIUCCIA WITH A BREATHTAKING VIEW FROM THE VAST WINDOWED TERRACE AT THE BACK &OR BOTTLES TO TAKE AWAY TRY THE %NOTECA ,ES "ARRIQUES AT 6IA "OLDRINI WHICH HAS OVER 4USCAN WINES INCLUDING THE MAJOR "RUNELLO AND 2OSSO DI -ONTALCINO LABELS %NOTECA DI 0IAZZA 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI HAS WINES FROM LOCAL PRODUCERS ALL WELL KEPT IN THREE AIR CONDITIONED ROOMS )N ADDITION TO THE CLASSIC "RUNELLO AND THE MORE BRIEmY BARREL AGED 2OSSO DI -ONTALCINO TABLE WINE ITS WORTH TRYING SOME OF THE WHITE -OSCADELLETTO DI -ONTALCINO A DESSERT WINE PRODUCED IN SMALL QUANTITIES AND AT ITS BEST CHILLED %ATING
-ONTALCINO IS REMARKABLY BLESSED WITH GOOD RESTAURANTS AND YOULL BE HARD PUSHED TO HAVE A BAD MEAL IN ANY OF THEM )N SUMMER ITS WORTH BOOKING A TABLE AT JUST ABOUT ANY OF THE FOLLOWING PLACES )F ALL YOU WANT IS A SLICE OF PIZZA TO TAKE AWAY HEAD FOR 0ETTOS 0IZZA A TINY PLACE ON 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI CLOSED 7ED )L 'IARDINO D!LBERTO 0IAZZA #AVOUR 0LEASANT INTERIOR WITH GOOD LOCAL COOKING THE CHEF IS THE OWNER #LOSED 7ED )L -ORO 6IA -AZZINI ! CONSIS TENTLY RELIABLE AND NO NONSENSE MODERN TRATTORIA WITH THE BEST BUDGET MEALS IN TOWN #LOSED 4HURS )L 2E DI -ACCHIA 6IA 3OCCORSO 3ALONI -ONTALCINOS SWANKIEST RESTAU RANT 7HILE THE FOOD IS USUALLY EXCELLENT ITS SOME TIMES PRETENTIOUS CUCINA NUOVA LEANINGS MAY NOT BE TO ALL TASTES #LOSED 4HURS 0IZZERIA 3AN 'IORGIO 6IA 3 3ALONI
&AR AND AWAY THE BEST OF THE TOWNS CLUTCH OF PIZZERIE #RISPY PIZZAS AND FULL MEALS FROM + IN PLEASANT BEAMED AND BRICK VAULTED DINING ROOMS #LOSED 7ED 4AVERNA 'RAPPOLO "LU 6IA 3CALE DI -OGLIO ,OCATED IN A LITTLE ALLEY OFF 6IA -AZZINI 4HE OLD STONE WALLED INTERIOR IS COOL AND APPEALING AND THE UNUSUAL PASTAS ARE EXCELLENT 4RATTORIA ,!NGOLO 6IA 2ICASOLI )NFORMAL AND VAGUELY TRENDY LITTLE BAR TRATTORIA JUST DOWN FROM THE 2OCCA SERVING SNACK LUNCHES AND LOCAL PASTA DISHES #LOSED 4UES
&ESTIVALS
&ESTA DELLA -ADONNA DEL 3OCCORSO -AY ! SMALL PALIO n FEATURING THE SAME HORSES THAT WILL APPEAR LATER IN THE YEAR AT 3IENA n IS HELD ON THE
SPORTS lELD BELOW THE FORT -ONTALCINO *AZZ 7INE *ULY IN THE &ORTEZZA -ONTALCINO 4EATRO RD AND TH WEEKS OF *ULY
!N INTERNATIONAL THEATRE FESTIVAL PRESENTING WORKS IN PROGRESS IN THE CHURCHES 2OCCA EIGHTEENTH CENTURY 4EATRO DEGLI !STRUSI AND SOMETIMES IN THE CRETE AROUND THE TOWN 4ORNEO DELLA !PERTURA DELLA #ACCIA ND 3UN IN !UG 4OURNAMENT MARKING THE START OF THE HUNTING SEASON THAT IS SAID TO HAVE FOURTEENTH CENTURY ORIGINS n INSPIRING SOME OF THE TALES IN THE $ECAM ERON (ALF THE TOWN DRESSES UP IN MEDIEVAL COS TUME FOR PARADES AND ARCHERY COMPETITIONS ON THE
SPORTS lELD BETWEEN THE CONTRADE 3TREET BANQUETS COMPLETE THE DAY &ESTA DELL5NITÌ MID !UG 4EN DAY FESTIVAL ORGANIZED BY THE FORMER COMMUNIST PARTY IN THE PINE WOOD ABOVE THE TOWN ,IVE MUSIC MOST NIGHTS CHEAP FOOD AND WINE n AND USUALLY A LOT OF FUN 3AGRA DEL 4ORDO LAST 3UN IN /CT 3IMILAR EVENTS TO THE #ACCIA FESTIVAL BUT IF ANYTHING EVEN MORE WIDELY TOUTED
4RANSPORT
!S "RUNELLO IS )TALYS PREMIER WINE IT SEEMS A SHAME NOT TO GET OUT TO AT LEAST ONE OF THE VINEYARDS !S WELL AS THOSE DETAILED BELOW YOU CAN VISIT MOST OTHERS IF YOU ASK AT THE WINEGROWERS HEADQUARTERS IN -ONTALCINOS 0ALAZZO #OMU NALE THE ONLY PERIOD WHEN VISITORS MIGHT NOT BE WELCOME IS AT HARVEST TIME 3EPTn/CT
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6INEYARDS AND VILLAGES AROUND -ONTALCINO
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42! ). BUSES WWWTRAINSPAIT RUN MORE OR LESS HOURLY FROM 0IAZZA #AVOUR AND 6IALE 0 3TROZZI TO "UONCONVENTO AND 3IENA VIA 4OR RENIERI !T 4ORRENIERI YOU CAN PICK UP ONE OF SIX DAILY BUSES TO 3AN 1UÓRICO 0IENZA AND -ONTEPULCIANO 4HERE ARE FOUR LOCAL BUSES DAILY FROM -ONTALCINO TO 3ANT!NGELO 3CALO WWWBARGAGLIAUTOLINEEIT AND JUST ONE DURING THE SCHOOL TERM TO !BBADIA 3AN 3ALVATORE AND 0IANCASTAGNAIO 4HERES ALSO A DAILY 3)2! BUS TO AND FROM 2OME IT DEPARTS FOR 2OME MID AFTERNOON FROM 0IAZZA #AVOUR USEFUL AS A DIRECT WAY OF GETTING TO 0IENZA AND -ONTEPUL CIANO WHICH IT PASSES EN ROUTE TO THE ! MOTORWAY "US TICKETS ARE AVAILABLE FROM TOBACCONISTS AROUND TOWN AND FROM THE "AR )L 0RATO ON THE CORNER OF 6IALE 2OMA AND 0IAZZA #AVOUR &OR RAIL CONNECTIONS TO 3IENA OR 'ROSSETO HEAD TO "UONCONVENTO 4ORRENIERI OR TO 3ANT!NGELO -OST SERVICES ARE SLOW STOPPING NUMBERS BUT BURIED IN THE TIMETABLE ARE A COUPLE OF FAST THROUGH TRAINS DAILY TO &LORENCE VIA 3IENA AND 'ROSSETO FOR CONNECTIONS TO 2OME AND 0ISA
&ATTORIA DEI "ARBI
4HE &ATTORIA DEI "ARBI WWWFATTORIADEIBARBIIT IS KM SOUTHEAST OF -ONTALCINO SIGNPOSTED OFF TO THE LEFT JUST AFTER THE HAMLET OF ,A #ROCE ON THE 3ANT!NTIMO ROAD )TS CANTINA -ONn&RI AMnPM nPM 3AT 3UN nPM OPENS UNTIL PM IN SUMMER OFFERS TASTING FACILITIES AND A SUPERB STOCK OF VINTAGES !TTACHED IS A VERY lNE RESTAURANT THE 4AVERNA DEI "ARBI OR CLOSED 4UES AT DINNER AND 7ED EXCEPT IN !UG WITH STRICTLY LOCAL RECIPES AT MODERATE PRICES n LOTS OF PORCINI PICI PAP ARDELLE AND DELICIOUS GRILLED PORK THE BRASATO AL "RUNELLO WASHED DOWN OF COURSE WITH THE "ARBIS OWN WINE 6ILLA "ANl #ASTELLO DI 0OGGIO ALLE -URA AND 3ANT!NGELO IN #OLLE
7ITH A THIRD OF ITS THREE THOUSAND HECTARES DEVOTED TO VINEYARDS THE 6ILLA "ANl WWWCASTELLODIBANlCOM IS -ONTALCINOS LARGEST AND MOST MODERN WINE PRODUCER )T WAS TAKEN OVER IN THE S BY AN )TALIAN !MERICAN WINE IMPORTING FAMILY THE -ARIANI )T HAS %NGLISH SPEAKING GUIDES AVAILABLE TO SHOW YOU ROUND -ONn&RI PM BOOKINGS PREFERRED AND A MODERATELY PRICED
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RESTAURANT DINNER ONLY 4UESn3AT SERVING GOOD QUALITY LOCAL CUISINE BOOK ING ESSENTIAL 4HE VILLA IS LOCATED KM SOUTHWEST OF -ONTALCINO JUST OUTSIDE THE VILLAGE OF 3ANT!NGELO 3CALO WHERE YOU CAN GET AN INEXPENSIVE PIZZA AT )L -ARRUCHETO BY THE STATION &IVE KILOMETRES TO THE WEST OF THE STATION INSIDE THE "ANl ESTATE IS THE #ASTELLO DI 0OGGIO ALLE -URA A THIRTEENTH CENTURY CASTLE BUILT FOR THE 3ALIMBENI CLAN OF 3IENA THOUGH SUBSE QUENTLY ADDED TO IN A MISHMASH OF STYLES 2ECENTLY RENOVATED IT HAS A SMALL -USEO DEL 6ETRO DAILY SUMMER AMnPM WINTER AMnPM + WITH 2OMAN AND %TRUSCAN ARTEFACTS AND A DISPLAY OF TRADITIONAL IMPLEMENTS FOR WINE MAKING !T THE HALFWAY POINT ON THE ROAD FROM -ONTALCINO TO 6ILLA "ANl IS THE TINY WALLED VILLAGE OF 3!.4!.'%,/ ). #/,,% SET ON A LOW HILL IT CAN ALSO BE REACHED ON A BEAUTIFUL BUT PARTLY GRAVEL SURFACED ROAD FROM 3ANT!NTIMO 4HE 3IENESE USED IT AS A MILITARY BASE AGAINST -ONTALCINO IN THE MID THIRTEENTH CENTURY AND AS PART OF THEIR FRONTIER THEREAFTER )T HAS SOME INTERESTING FRESCOES INSIDE THE 2OMANESQUE CHURCH 3AN -ICHELE ON THE PIAZZA CHECK OUT THE LOVELY VIEWS FROM BEHIND THE CHURCH AND A COUPLE OF BAR RESTAURANTS 4HE ONE JUST OFF THE PIAZZA )L 0OZZO CLOSED 4UES AT 0IAZZA )L 0OZZO IS RECOMMENDED FOR ITS INEXPENSIVE PASTA DISHES AND ROASTS
3ANT!NTIMO
\ 3ANT!NTIMO
)TS A MOOT POINT WHICH OF 4USCANYS MANY ABBEYS IS THE MOST BEAUTIFUL HAS THE MOST FASCINATING HISTORY OR BOASTS THE LOVELIEST SETTING BUT MANY WOULD PUT THE !BBAZIA DI 3ANT!NTIMO -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN nAM nPM FREE WWWANTIMOIT NEAR THE TOP OF THEIR LIST )TS A GLORIOUS ISOLATED "ENEDICTINE MONASTERY THAT STANDS COMPARISON WITH THE NEARBY FOUNDATIONS OF 3AN 'ALGANO -ONTE /LIVETO AND 3AN 3ALVATORE ,OCATED A SHORT DISTANCE FROM THE HAMLET OF #ASTELNUOVO DELL!BATE KM SOUTH OF -ON TALCINO AND SPLENDIDLY ISOLATED IN A TIMELESS LANDSCAPE OF lELDS OLIVE GROVES AND WOODED HILLS THE ABBEY STOOD EMPTY FOR SOME lVE HUNDRED YEARS AND IS TODAY MAINTAINED BY A SMALL GROUP OF &RENCH MONKS n A #ISTERCIAN OFFSHOOT KNOWN AS THE 0REMONSTRATENSIANS WHO CELEBRATE -ASS SEVERAL TIMES DAILY IN HAUNTING 'REGORIAN CHANT -YTHOLOGY AND HISTORY OF THE ABBEY
4RADITION ASCRIBES THE FOUNDATION OF THE ABBEY TO #HARLEMAGNE WHO WHILE RETURNING WITH HIS ARMY FROM 2OME IN HALTED IN THE NEARBY 3TARCIA VALLEY (ERE HE PRAYED TO 'OD ASKING FOR RELIEF FROM THE DISEASE WHICH WAS CRIPPLING HIS ARMY AND OFFERING TO FOUND A CHURCH IF HIS PRAYERS WERE ANSWERED !N ANGEL APPEARED SHOWING THE EMPEROR A HERB CALLED #AROLINA IN )TALIAN WHICH HE WAS INSTRUCTED TO DRY AND GIVE TO HIS MEN AS A POWDER WITH WINE 4HE CURE WORKED AS PROMISED AND #HARLEMAGNE DULY FOUNDED 3ANT!NTIMO )F THIS STORY SOUNDS TOO GOOD TO BE TRUE IT IS KNOWN THAT THE ABBEY EXISTED IN WHEN #HARLEMAGNES SON ,OUIS THE 0IOUS ENRICHED IT WITH VAST TRACTS OF LAND AND PRIVILEGES IN A CHARTER DATED $ECEMBER OF THAT YEAR /THER SCHOLARS SUGGEST IT MAY HAVE BEEN FOUNDED ON THE SITE OF A 2OMAN VILLA OR POSSIBLY BY THE LAST OF THE AREAS ,OMBARDS IN ABOUT THE DATE OF THE FOUNDATION OF THE !BBADIA DI 3AN 3ALVATORE SEE P )N FACT 3T !NTIMO FEAST DAY -AY WAS PROBABLY A BISHOP MARTYRED IN 2OME DURING THE PERSECUTIONS OF $IOCLETIAN AND -AXIMIAN n !$ #ERTAINLY ITS KNOWN THAT IN THE YEAR OF THE ABBEYS
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3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9 3ANT!NTIMO
SUPPOSED FOUNDATION 3T !NTIMOS RELICS ALONG WITH THOSE OF 3T 3EBASTIAN WERE GIVEN TO #HARLEMAGNE BY 0OPE (ADRIAN ) 7HATEVER THE TRUTH OF 3ANT!NTIMOS ORIGINS THE DECIDEDLY PRE 2OMAN ESQUE STYLE OF PARTS OF THE PRIMITIVE CHURCH TOGETHER WITH DOCUMENTARY EVI DENCE CONlRMS A LATE EIGHTH OR EARLY NINTH CENTURY FOUNDATION /VER THE TWO CENTURIES THAT FOLLOWED THE ABBEYS IMPORTANCE GREW THANKS IN PART TO ITS LOCA TION CLOSE TO THE INTERSECTION OF SEVERAL OF CENTRAL )TALYS MOST IMPORTANT MEDI EVAL TRADE AND PILGRIMAGE ROUTES /LDEST OF THESE WAS A FORMER %TRUSCAN ROAD LINKING #HIUSI WITH 2USELLAE ON THE COAST A ROUTE WHICH PASSED DIRECTLY IN FRONT OF THE ABBEY TRACES OF THE SUNKEN LANE CAN STILL BE SEEN 4HIS WAS CROSSED BY THE OLD 2OMAN CONSULAR ROAD 6IA #LODIA AGAIN RIGHT IN FRONT OF THE ABBEY 4HE MOST IMPORTANT OF THE ANCIENT ROADS HOWEVER WAS THE 6IA &RANCIGENA WHICH FOR CENTURIES WAS THE MOST IMPORTANT PILGRIMAGE ROUTE BETWEEN 2OME AND NORTHERN %UROPE #OUNTLESS TOWNS AND VILLAGES GREW UP ALONG THE ROUTE TOGETHER WITH NUMEROUS HOSPICES FOR PILGRIMS 3IENA n WHOSE 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA 3CALA WAS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT OF THESE SEE P n AND 3AN 'IMIGNANO ARE JUST TWO LOCAL TOWNS WHICH OWE THEIR EARLY MEDIEVAL PROSPERITY TO THE 6IA &RANCIGENA 3ANT!NTIMOS HEYDAY DATES FROM WHEN AN ENORMOUS BEQUEST ALLOWED WORK TO BEGIN ON THE MAIN BODY OF THE PRESENT CHURCH AND A COMPLEX OF MONASTIC BUILDINGS NOW LARGELY LOST 4HE GRANTS ORIGINAL DEED n A DOCUMENT MANY HUNDREDS OF WORDS LONG n WAS ENGRAVED IN THE STEPS OF THE ALTAR WHERE IT SURVIVES TO THIS DAY 7ITH NEW FOUND FUNDS THE ABBEY AUTHORITIES NOW HAD ACCESS TO EXPERTISE AND IDEAS FROM ELSEWHERE IN %UROPE AND LOOKED FOR INSPI RATION TO THE GREAT "ENEDICTINE MOTHER HOUSE AT #LUNY IN "URGUNDY AND TO &RENCH ARCHITECTS WHOSE PLANS FOR THE NEW CHURCH APPEAR TO HAVE BEEN BASED ON THE ABBEY CHURCH OF 6IGNORY BEGUN IN IN THE (AUTE -ARNE /VER THE YEARS FUNDS BEGAN TO RUN LOW n HENCE THE UNlNISHED FACADE n AS RELI GIOUS BEQUESTS INCREASINGLY FOUND THEIR WAY TO NEW ORDERS SUCH AS THE #AMAL DOLESE AND #ISTERCIANS 7ORSE THE RISING POWER OF 3IENA BEGAN TO STRIP AWAY THE ABBEYS PRIVILEGES AND LANDS IN FOLLOWING 3IENAS SACKING OF -ONTALCINO THEN UNDER THE ABBEYS OWNERSHIP 3ANT!NTIMOS ABBOT WAS FORCED TO CEDE A QUARTER OF THE TERRITORY OF -ONTALCINO TO THE 3IENESE 2EPUBLIC "Y IT RETAINED ONLY A lFTH OF ITS ORIGINAL POSSESSIONS WHICH HAD ONCE MADE IT THE SECOND RICHEST ABBEY IN 4USCANY &INANCIAL PROBLEMS WERE SOON FOLLOWED BY MORAL AND SPIRITUAL DECLINE )N 0OPE %UGENIUS )6 HAD THE ABBOT IMPRIS ONED FOR hVILLAINYv THEN IN 0IUS )) SUPPRESSED THE ABBEY FOR GOOD CONVINCED THAT IT WAS BEYOND SPIRITUAL OR lNANCIAL SALVATION 4HE ABBEY SOLDIERED ON FOR A FEW YEARS UNDER THE AUSPICES OF THE BISHOPS OF 3IENA AND THE NEWLY CREATED DIOCESE OF -ONTALCINO BUT AFTER n WHEN -ONTALCINOS BISHOPS OPTED TO LIVE INSTEAD IN THE TOWN n IT WAS LARGELY ABAN DONED ITS BUILDINGS RANSACKED FOR STONE FOR USE IN #ASTELNUOVO AND -ONTALCINO 7HAT REMAINED WAS BOUGHT BY THE STATE IN 4HE CHURCH
4HE MONKS QUARTERS ASIDE LITTLE REMAINS OF THE PLUNDERED MONASTIC BUILDINGS n A RUINED REFECTORY AND CHAPTERHOUSE ARE NOW USED AS BARNS AND ACCOMMO DATION FOR RECENTLY ARRIVED MONKS "UT THE TWELFTH CENTURY CHURCH ITSELF IS IN EXCELLENT REPAIR AND IS ONE OF THE MOST OUTSTANDING EXAMPLES OF )TALIAN 2OMAN ESQUE BUILT IN A SOFT CREAMY STONE AND PERFECTLY PROPORTIONED 4HE FACADE WAS THE LAST PART OF THE CHURCH TO BE BUILT AND SO SUFFERED MOST FROM THE SHORTFALL OF FUNDS 4HE TRACES OF ARCHES IN THE STONES AND THE PILAS TERS WITH ATTACHED COLUMNS SUGGEST THAT A PORTICO ONCE PROVIDED A GRANDER
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
ENTRANCE THE LIONS WHICH SUP PORTED THE PORTICO AND SYMBOL IZED THE POWER OF 3ATAN WAITING TO DEVOUR THE FAITHFUL ARE NOW INSIDE THE ABBEY 2ECENT STUDIES SUGGEST THE PORTAL ON THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA IN NEARBY 3AN 1UÓRICO D¼RCIA SEE P WAS ONE OF TWO PORTALS INTENDED FOR THE ABBEY AND WAS PER HAPS GIVEN AWAY IN THE LIGHT OF THE ABBEYS SUBSEQUENT DECLINE 4HE SURVIVING PORTAL CONTAINS A TWELFTH CENTURY LINTEL WHOSE ,ATIN TEXT ALLUDES TO ONE !ZZO A MONK WHO MAY HAVE BEEN ONE OF THE ORIGINAL ARCHITECTS OF THE CHURCH /THERWISE THE CAPI TALS FRIEZE AND RECESSED mUTED ARCH ARE ALL LIFTED DIRECTLY FROM &RENCH ,ANGUEDOC MODELS !ROUND THE CORNER ON THE LEFT NORTH WALL THE LITTLE lLLED IN DOORWAY AND LINTELS SURVIVE FROM THE EARLIER NINTH CENTURY CHURCH
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4HE INTERIOR 5 !PSE 3ANT!NTIMO
4HE &RENCH mAVOUR BECOMES MORE MARKED IN THE LOVELY INTERIOR WHOSE BASILICAN PLAN n WITH AN AMBULATORY AND RADIATING CHAPELS n IS UNIQUE IN 4USCANY AND FOUND ELSEWHERE IN )TALY IN ONLY A HANDFUL OF CHURCHES )TS PRESENCE HERE ALLOWED PILGRIMS TO WALK AROUND THE APSE AND PRAY BEFORE THE MARTYRIUM THE SPOT UNDER THE HIGH ALTAR WHICH CONTAINED THE RELICS OF THE SAINT BEING VENERATED 4HE HIGH ALTAR FEATURES A POLYCHROME STATUE OF THE CRUCIlED #HRIST AN OUTSTANDING 2OMANESQUE WORK DATING FROM THE END OF THE TWELFTH CENTURY .OTE THE INSCRIPTION ON THE ALTAR STEPS SEE P 4HE CAPITALS ON THE PILLARS OF THE AMBULATORY DISPLAY SOME EXQUISITE CARV ING A FEATURE FOR WHICH THE ABBEY IS PARTICULARLY CELEBRATED -ANY ARE CARVED IN LUSTROUS ALABASTER A STONE WHICH FEATURES ELSEWHERE IN THE BUILDING LENDING A BEAUTIFULLY SUBTLE TONE TO THE WALLS AND SCULPTURE (ERE THE CARVING IS MORE ,OMBARD THAN &RENCH LEADING TO THE THEORY THAT TWO SEPARATE WORKSHOPS n ONE FROM &RANCE THE !UVERGNE AND ONE FROM ,OMBARDY 0AVIA MAY HAVE WORKED ALONGSIDE ONE ANOTHER %QUALLY PLAUSIBLE IS THE IDEA THAT MANY OF THE CAPITALS DERIVE FROM THE EARLIER #AROLINGIAN CHURCH BUILT BEFORE THE &RENCH INSPIRED CHURCH OF 4HE ABBEYS lNEST CAPITAL SITS ATOP THE SECOND COLUMN ON THE RIGHT OF THE NAVE )T DEPICTS $ANIEL IN THE ,IONS $EN THE PROTAGONIST n ARMS RAISED IN PRAYER n A STUDY OF CALM WHILE HIS FELLOW PRISONERS ARE CRUSHED AND EATEN BY RAMPANT BEASTS #LEARLY SUPERIOR TO ANYTHING ELSE IN THE ABBEY IT IS THE WORK OF THE SO CALLED -ASTER OF #ABESTANY A SCULPTOR OF &RENCH OR 3PANISH ORIGIN WHOSE DISTINCTIVE HAND HAS BEEN IDENTIlED IN ABBEYS ACROSS &RANCE #ATALONIA AND )TALY n HE SEEMS ALWAYS TO HAVE WORKED FOR THE "ENEDICTINES "Y WAY OF COMPARISON
WANDER ACROSS TO STUDY THE CAPITAL ON THE SECOND COLUMN ON THE LEFT WHICH DEPICTS A SHEPHERD AND SHEEP IN A FAR MORE MUNDANE STYLE )NCREASINGLY THE REST OF THE CHURCH IS OFTEN CLOSED TO VISITORS !REAS AFFECTED INCLUDE THE SACRISTY WHICH OCCUPIES PART OF THE NINTH CENTURY #AROLINGIAN CHURCH ENTERED WHEN OPEN FROM A DOOR IN THE RIGHT AISLE )T FEATURES AN ARRAY OF PRIMITIVE BLACK AND WHITE FRESCOES WITH SUCH DETAILS AS A RAT LOOKING UP ATTENTIVELY AT 3T "ENEDICT AND A PAIR OF COPULATING PIGS .OTE THE STOUP WITH 0IUSS 0ICCOLOMINI CREST AT EACH CORNER &URTHER FRESCOES ARE TO BE FOUND IN SOME OF THE ROOMS BUILT AROUND THE WOMENS GALLERY lTTED OUT IN THE lFTEENTH CEN TURY BY THE BISHOPS OF -ONTALCINO ITS APPROACHED FROM THE NAVE BY A CIRCULAR STAIRWAY THOUGH HERE TOO ACCESS IS OFTEN RESTRICTED 0RACTICALITIES
4HE 6AL D¼RCIA AND "AGNO 6IGNONI
3AN 1UÓRICO D¼RCIA ! RAMBLING PART WALLED VILLAGE 3!. 15·2)#/ $¼2#)! STANDS AT A CROSS ROADS ON THE 3IENA TO "OLSENA ROAD OVERLOOKING THE ¼RCIA AND !SSO VALLEYS )TS QUIET AND RATHER DECAYED n AN ODD MIX OF MODERN AND MEDIEVAL n OVERLOOKED BY THE PRECARIOUS RUINS OF A SEVENTEENTH CENTURY PALAZZO WHOSE "AROQUE EXTE RIOR FRESCOES ARE FADING BEFORE YOUR EYES )TS NAME COMES FROM 3AN 1UÓRICO A /SENNA AN ANCIENT CHURCH ON THE 6IA &RANCIGENA THOUGH OF THE EPONYMOUS SAINT LITTLE IS KNOWN EXCEPT THAT HE WAS MARTYRED PROBABLY IN THE FOURTH CEN TURY (OSPITALS AND HOSPICES SPRANG UP HERE TO ACCOMMODATE PILGRIMS IN THE EARLY -IDDLE !GES AS THEY DID IN 3IENA AND OTHER SETTLEMENTS ALONG THE 6IA &RANCIGENA 4HE MAIN n AND HIGHLY WORTHWHILE n REASON FOR STOPPING IN THE TOWN IS TO LOOK AROUND THE EXCEPTIONALLY PRETTY 2OMANESQUE #OLLEGIATA WITH ITS THREE PORTALS SCULPTED WITH LIONS AND OTHER BEASTS THE SOUTH DOOR MAY BE THE WORK OF 'IOVANNI 0ISANO OR HIS SCHOOL WHILE THE MAIN PORTAL IS RIGHTLY CONSIDERED THE lNEST PIECE OF ,OMBARD WORK IN THE REGION 4HE CHURCH WAS BUILT IN THE
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4HE 6AL D¼RCIA STRETCHES FROM 3AN 1UÓRICO D¼RCIA DOWN TOWARDS THE BOR DER WITH ,AZIO AND THE LAKE OF "OLSENA ! GORGEOUS STRETCH OF COUNTRY IT IS MARKED AT INTERVALS BY FORTRESSES BUILT FROM THE EIGHTH CENTURY ON WHEN THE ROAD THROUGH THE VALLEY THE 6IA &RANCIGENA WAS A VITAL CORRIDOR NORTH FROM 2OME SEE P 4HE MAJOR ATTRACTION ALONG THE INITIAL SECTION OF THE VALLEY IS THE REMARKABLE -EDICEAN SULPHUR BATHS OF "AGNO 6IGNONI 7ITH TRANSPORT n OR ENTHUSIASM FOR WALKING n YOU MIGHT STRIKE OFF SOUTH FROM HERE TO THE REGIONS MEDIEVAL POWER BASE THE MONASTERY OF 3AN 3ALVATORE SEE P 7ALKERS MIGHT ALSO CONSIDER APPROACHING "AGNO 6IGNONI ACROSS COUNTRY FROM -ONTALCINO A lVE HOUR HIKE WHICH WOULD ENTAIL STAYING IN "AGNO 6IGNONI OR GOING ON FROM "AGNO 6IGNONI ALONG THE OLD GRAVEL ROAD TO 0IENZA
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9 4HE 6AL D¼RCIA AND "AGNO 6IGNONI
4HERE ARE OCCASIONAL BUSES ALONG THE 3ANT!NTIMO ROAD LEAVING -ONTALCINO FROM -ONDAY TO &RIDAY AT AM AND PM RETURNING AT AM AND PM AND ON 3ATURDAY AT PM RETURNING AT PM !LTERNATIVELY ITS A PLEASANT COUNTRY WALK OR FEASIBLE HITCH !DDITIONAL REWARDS ARE AT THE MODERATELY PRICED 2ISTORANTE "ASSOMONDO CLOSED -ON ACROSS THE ROAD WHICH DOES WONDERFUL CROSTINI RIBOLLITA AND PICI
7ALKS IN THE 0ARCO DELLA 6AL D¼RCIA
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
4HERE ARE PLENTY OF INTERESTING HIKES AROUND 3AN 1UÓRICO AND -ONTALCINO IN THE 0ARCO !RTISTICO .ATURALE E #ULTURALE DELLA 6AL D¼RCIA 4HE PARK INFORMATION OFlCE DOUBLES AS 3AN 1UÓRICOS TOURIST OFlCE 6IA $ANTE !LIGHIERI OR WWWPARCODELLAVALDORCIACOM )NFORMATION IS ALSO AVAILABLE FROM THE COMUNE COUNCIL AT 0IAZZA #HIGI WWWCOMUNESANQUIRICO IT ! MODERATELY CHALLENGING TRAIL RUNS FROM "AGNO 6IGNONI OUT TO THE CASTLE RESTAURANT AT 2IPA D¼RCIA AND BACK KM HR &ROM M BEFORE THE "AGNO 6IGNONI CAR PARK A CART TRACK RISES THROUGH VINEYARDS AND OLIVE GROVES TO 2OCCA DI 6IGNONI THE HAMLET OF 6IGNONI AND ON TO 0ODERE "ELLARIA AFTER WHICH IS A JUNCTION /NE ROUTE HEADS RIGHT NORTH TO 3AN 1UÓRICO THE OTHER LEFT SOUTH THROUGH A SCENIC LANDSCAPE UP TO THE 2IPA D¼RCIA CASTLE "ACKTRACKING M DOWN THE CASTLE HILL YOULL lND A SIGNPOSTED PATH LEADING RIGHT DOWN THROUGH FOLIAGE TO A BROKEN BRIDGE OVER THE ¼RCIA RIVER DONT CROSS BUT FOLLOW THE LEFT HAND RIVERBANK BACK TO "AGNO 6IGNONI 4HERES AN EASIER TRAIL FROM -ONTALCINO TO 3AN 1UÓRICO CROSSING SHADELESS CLAY HILLS AND DIPPING THROUGH VINEYARDS KM HR GOOD FOR WALKING OR CYCLING &ROM -ONTALCINOS NORTHERN 0ORTA "URELLI A TRACK DROPS DOWN TO 'LI !NGELI AND CROSSES THE PAVED ROAD IN FRONT OF 0ODERE ,A #ASACCIA HEADING INTO AN AREA OF HUMMOCKS UNTIL YOU REACH THE PROVINCIAL HIGHWAY &OLLOW THE ROAD RIGHT FOR A FEW HUNDRED METRES COMING OFF AT 0ODERE &IESOLE AND HEADING EAST ACROSS CLAY GROUND TO 0ODERE #ASELLO AND 0ODERI 0IAN DELL!SSO #ROSS THE TRAIN TRACK AND A COUPLE OF STREAMS BEFORE CLIMBING TO 0ODERE "ELLADONNA AND THE CHAPEL OF -ADONNA DI 2IGUARDO ! RISING AND FALLING PATH COVERS THE LAST M INTO 3AN 1UÓRICO
\ 4HE 6AL D¼RCIA AND "AGNO 6IGNONI
TWELFTH CENTURY PROBABLY ON THE RUINS OF A STILL OLDER CHURCH )NSIDE IS A DELICATE TRIPTYCH OF THE 6IRGIN AND 3AINTS BY 3ANO DI 0IETRO IN THE NORTH TRANSEPT AS WELL AS A MARVELLOUS SET OF NINE 2ENAISSANCE CHOIR STALLS WHOSE lGURES AND TROMPE LOEIL MAY HAVE BEEN EXECUTED TO DESIGNS BY ,UCA 3IGNORELLI 4HE STALLS ORIGINALLY FORMED PART OF A LARGER NINETEEN STALL SET IN THE #APPELLA DEL "ATTISTERO IN 3IENA CATHEDRAL 4HERES A TOURIST OFlCE AT 6IA $ANTE !LIGHIERI !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM nPM ALSO THE HEADQUARTERS OF THE 0ARCO !RTISTICO .ATURALE E #ULTURALE DELLA 6AL D¼RCIA SEE BOX ABOVE )T PROVIDES INFORMATION ABOUT THE PARK AND THE 4RENO .ATURA hTOURISTv TRAIN LINE THAT OCCASIONALLY RUNS THROUGH THE 6AL D/RCIA TO -ONTE !NTICO WWW FERROVIETURISTICHEIT 3AN 1UÓRICO IS A REGULAR STOP ON THE 3IENAn"UONCON VENTOn0IENZAn-ONTEPULCIANO 42! ). BUS ROUTE AS WELL AS A STOP ON THE ONCE DAILY 3)2! -ONTALCINOn2OME SERVICE )T HAS A SMALL TWO STAR HOTEL )L 'ARIBALDI ON THE 6IA #ASSIA THE MAIN ROAD )F YOU WANT AN ISOLATED AND PEACEFUL PLACE TO STAY 2IPA D¼RCIA ABOUT lVE KILOMETRES SOUTHWEST OF 3AN 1UÓRICO AT THE END OF A MINOR BUT PERFECTLY PASSABLE GRAVELLED ROAD HAS AN ABSOLUTELY STUNNING HOTEL #ASTELLO 2IPA D¼RCIA WWWCASTELLORIPADORCIACOM LOCATED IN AN ISOLATED AND ANCIENT CASTLE WHICH IS VISIBLE FOR MILES AROUND 6IEWS FROM THE CASTLE ARE SEN SATIONAL AND THERE ARE LOVELY STROLLS AND MARKED TRAILS DOWN TO THE ¼RCIA VALLEY AND 3ANT!NTIMO FROM RIGHT OUTSIDE THE WALLS
"AGNO 6IGNONI
3IX KILOMETRES SOUTH OF 3AN 1UÓRICO "!'./ 6)'./.) IS SCARCELY EVEN A HAMLET n JUST A HANDFUL OF BUILDINGS AROUND A CENTRAL SQUARE 4HE SQUARE
2OCCA #ASTIGLIONE AND 6IVO D¼RCIA
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4HE 2OCCA D¼RCIA SUMMER AMnPM nPM WINTER 3AT 3UN AMn PM nPM + KM SOUTH OF "AGNO 6IGNONI IS VISIBLE ALMOST THE WHOLE WAY FROM 3AN 1UÓRICO FROM THE ELEVENTH TO THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY THIS DRAMATIC PILE OF A CASTLE BELONGED LIKE ALMOST EVERY CASTLE ALONG THIS STRETCH OF THE 6IA &RANCIGENA TO THE !LDOBRANDESCHI FAMILY !LTHOUGH 3ANTA &IORA SEE P WAS THE CLAN BASE THIS WAS THEIR MOST IMPORTANT FORTRESS A STRATEGIC SITE ALLOWING THEM TO ROB OR EXTRACT TOLLS FROM ANY TRAFlC ALONG THE ROUTE !FTER A CHANGE OF OWNERSHIP TO THE 3ALIMBENI FAMILY WHO BUILT MOST OF THE PRESENT STRUCTURE THE CASTLE WAS ONLY PROPERLY INCORPORATED INTO THE 3IENESE 2EPUBLIC IN #!34)',)/.% $¼2#)! THE VILLAGE BELOW THE ROCCA IS A lNE LOOKING PLACE BUILT ALMOST ENTIRELY OF STONE WITH AN ELABORATELY COBBLED PIAZZA AND A TRIO OF MEDIEVAL CHURCHES )N THE 2OMANESQUE CHURCH OF 33 3TEFANO E $EGNA ARE PANELS TEMPORARILY REMOVED TO THE -USEO #IVICO IN -ONTALCINO WITH SOME DISPUTE BETWEEN CHURCH AND MUSEUM AS TO WHEN THEY SHALL BE RETURNED BY 0IETRO ,ORENZETTI 6ECCHIETTA AND ONE ATTRIBUTED TO 3IMONE -ARTINI n A HINT OF THE WEALTH #ASTIGLIONE MUST ONCE HAVE ENJOYED 6ECCHIETTA INCIDENTALLY WAS BORN IN THE VILLAGE IN 4HERE IS A SMALL SUMMER ONLY TOURIST OFlCE IN 0IAZZA )L 6ECCHIETTA OR -OVING SOUTH TOWARDS -ONTE !MIATA THE HAMLET OF 6)6/ $¼2#)! IS ANOTHER MEDIEVAL TREAT WITH BEAUTIFUL WALKS ALONG THE RIVER AND IN THE WOODS WHERE YOU COME UPON THE 2OMANESQUE #APPELLA DELL%RMICCIOLO PART OF A TWELFTH CENTURY #AMALDOLESE MONASTERY THE %REMO DEL 6IVO ALTERED IN REPUTEDLY BY !NTONIO DA 3ANGALLO THE 9OUNGER &OR ROOMS AND AGRITURISMO APART MENTS TRY ) ,ECCI AT ,OCALITÌ ,ECCI KM FROM #ASTIGLIONE WWWAGRITURISMOILECCIIT WHICH ALSO OFFERS INEXPENSIVE MEALS
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9 4HE 6AL D¼RCIA AND "AGNO 6IGNONI
HOWEVER IS ONE OF 4USCANYS MOST MEMORABLE SIGHTS OCCUPIED BY AN ARCADED 2ENAISSANCE PISCINA 4HIS WAS BUILT BY THE -EDICI WHO LIKE 3T #ATHERINE OF 3IENA TOOK THE SULPHUR CURE HERE 4HE HOT SPRINGS STILL BUBBLE AWAY IN THE BATH WHICH FORMED AN AMAZING SET IN 4ARKOVSKYS lLM .OSTALGIA THOUGH THEY ARE CURRENTLY OUT OF BOUNDS FOR BATHING PLANS TO RESTORE THE PISCINA AND DEVELOP THE SPA AS A RESORT HAVE SO FAR BEEN THWARTED n THANKFULLY n BY THE 3IENA COUNCIL 9OU CAN HOWEVER BATHE IN THE SULPHUR POOLS AT THE FOOT OF THE HILLSIDE BELOW THE VILLAGE OR USE THE SULPHUR POOL AT THE FOUR STAR 0OSTA -ARCUCCI HOTEL WWWHOTELPOSTAMARCUCCIIT USE OF POOL FOR NON RESIDENTS + PER DAY A lFTEENTH CENTURY SUMMER HOUSE ERECTED BY 0IUS )) ON THE SIDE OF THE PIAZZA 4HE VILLAGES OTHER HOTEL THE THREE STAR ,E 4ERME WWWALBERGOLETERMEIT WHICH OVERLOOKS THE PISCINA HAS A MARGINALLY BETTER RESTAURANT 4HE BEST PLACE TO EAT HOWEVER IS THE MODERATELY PRICED !NTICA /STERIA DEL ,EONE 6IA DEI -ULINI CLOSED -ON &OOD HERE IS 4USCAN WITH A TWIST AND THEY HAVE SEVERAL VEGETAR IAN OPTIONS
"AGNI 3AN &ILIPPO AND 2ADICØFANI %AST OF 6IVO D¼RCIA JUST A FEW HUNDRED METRES OFF THE . IS THE TINY SPA OF "!'.) 3!. &),)00/ ,IKE 6IGNONI THIS HAS AN OUTDOOR HOT SULPHUR SPRING CASCADING FROM THE ROCKS AS WELL AS AN UNOSTENTATIOUS MODERN SPA BUILDING AND POOL 4HERE IS ALSO A TINY CHAPEL ,A 'ROTTA DEL 3ANTO COMMEMORATING THE VILLAGE SAINT WHO TOOK REFUGE HERE AFTER BEING OFFERED THE PAPACY
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
\ 0IENZA
/N THE OTHER SIDE OF THE . FROM 3AN &ILIPPO A ROAD VEERS EAST INTO THE HILLS TO THE MAJESTICALLY SITUATED 2OCCA OF 2!$)#¼&!.) M WHICH VIES WITH THE 2OCCA D¼RCIA FOR THE TITLE OF MOST IMPOSING FORTRESS IN SOUTHERN 4USCANY #LAMPED TO A BASALT OUTCROP IT COMMANDS THE STRATEGIC HEIGHTS BETWEEN THE 0AGLIA AND ¼RCIA VALLEYS 4HE CASTLE IS IDENTIlED WITH ONE 'HINO DI 4ACCO A FOURTEENTH CENTURY BANDIT WHO FEATURES IN THE WRITINGS OF BOTH $ANTE AND "OCCACCIO THE $ECAMERON TELLS OF 4ACCOS IMPRISONING THE ABBOT OF #LUNY IN THIS FORTRESS THEN CURING HIM OF INDIGESTION 6IEWS FROM THE WALLS ARE STUNNING (OURS VARY FROM YEAR TO YEAR FOR THE LATEST DETAILS CONTACT THE SMALL SUMMER ONLY TOURIST OFlCE AT 6IA 2ENATO -AGI "ELOW THE CASTLE WHICH WAS DEVASTATED BY AN EXPLOSION IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY IS A HANDSOME LITTLE VILLAGE WITH AN OLD #APUCHIN CONVENT A CLUSTER OF CHURCHES AND THE SADLY DILAPIDATED 0ALAZZO ,A 0OSTA n THE h'REAT $UKES )NNv WHERE CENTURIES OF GRAND TOURISTS n INCLUDING -ONTAIGNE AND #HARLES $ICKENS n PUT UP ON THEIR WAY TO 2OME 4HE BEST OF THE CHURCHES THE 2OMANESQUE 3AN 0IETRO FEATURES SEVERAL GOOD GLAZED TERRACOTTA WORKS FROM THE SCHOOL OF !NDREA DELLA 2OBBIA TOGETHER WITH A POLYCHROME WOODEN -ADONNA SECOND PILLAR ON THE LEFT BY &RANCESCO DI 6ALDAMBRINO ! RARE SCULPTOR 6ALDAMBRINO n OFTEN COL LABORATED WITH THE GREAT 3IENESE SCULPTOR *ACOPO DELLA 1UERCIA HAVING WORKED WITH HIM ON THE PANELS FOR THE &ONTE 'AIA NOW DISPLAYED IN 3IENAS 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO (E IS BEST KNOWN FOR HIS 3T 0ETER IN -ONTALCINO SEE P 4HE VILLAGE REMAINS A HANDY PLACE TO STAY WITH A MODEST HOTEL n ,A 4ORRE 6IA -ATTEOTTI n PLUS THE %NI 6IA DELL¼RCIA KM AWAY IN THE HAMLET OF #ONTIGNANO
0IENZA 0)%.:! KM EAST OF -ONTALCINO IS AS COMPLETE A 2ENAISSANCE CREATION AS ANY IN )TALY CONCEIVED AS A 5TOPIAN h.EW 4OWNv BY 0OPE 0IUS )) !ENEAS 3YLVIUS 0ICCOLOMINI SEE P 4HE SITE 0IUS CHOSE WAS THE VILLAGE OF #OR SIGNANO WHERE HE WAS BORN IN THE lRST OF EIGHTEEN CHILDREN OF A NOBLE FAMILY EXILED FROM 3IENA IN THE VILLAGE AT LEAST IN PART FORMED PART OF THE 0ICCOLOMINIS TRADITIONAL FEUDAL DOMAIN !RCHEOLOGICAL EVIDENCE SUGGESTS IT WAS INHABITED AS EARLY AS THE "RONZE !GE )N 2OMAN TIMES IT WAS A HILL TOP FORT OF SOME RENOWN AND BY THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY IT HAD A REPUTATION AS AN ANARCHIC BORDER TOWN "OCCACCIO SPOKE OF h#ORSIGNAN DE ,ADRIv h#ORSIGNANO OF THE THIEVESv IN HIS NOVEL #ECCO DI &OTARRIGO 4ODAY THERES LITTLE TO SEE BEYOND 0IUSS CENTRAL 2ENAISSANCE PIAZZA n THE POPES DEATH MARKED THE END OF HIS BELOVED PROJECT n THOUGH FEW PLACES IN 4USCANY HAVE AS MUCH IMMEDIATE CHARM 4HERE ARE ALSO SOME EXTRAORDINARY VIEWS FROM THE WALLS A SCATTERING OF GOOD BARS AND RESTAURANTS AND A RANGE OF ACCOMMODATION n FROM ROOMS TO A lNE HISTORIC HOTEL n IF YOU WANT TO STAY ! BRIEF HISTORY n 0IUS AND 2OSSELLINO
4HE CONSTRUCTION OF 0IENZA BEGAN IN LESS THAN A YEAR AFTER 0IUSS ELEC TION TO THE PAPACY IN !UGUST (ISTORY RATHER HARSHLY SUGGESTS THE NEW POPE WISHED TO AVENGE HIMSELF ON 3IENA n WHICH HAD UNJUSTLY EXILED HIS FAM ILY n BY BUILDING A CITY THAT WOULD BE BOTH 3IENAS ANTITHESIS AND ITS SUPERIOR )TS ALSO CLAIMED 0IUS COULD NOT LIVE WITH THE SHAME OF HAVING COME FROM A VILLAGE AS HUMBLE AS #ORSIGNANO (IS ARCHITECT ON THE PROJECT WAS "ERNARDO 2OSSELLINO WHO WORKED ON ALL THE MAJOR BUILDINGS HERE UNDER THE GUIDANCE
-BOETDBQF 4HERESªPLENTYªTOªTAKEªHOMEªFROMªAªVISITªTOª4USCANYªANDª 5MBRIA ªBUTªSOMEªOFªTHEªMOSTªENDURINGªMEMORIESªWILLª PROBABLYªBEªOFªTHEªREGIONSªSUBLIMEªSCENERYª)NªTHEªPOPULARª IMAGINATION ªMUCHªOFªTHEªLANDSCAPEªISªPASTORAL ªAªPATCHWORKª OFªLOWªHILLS ªVINEYARDSªANDªWOODEDªVALLEYSªSCATTEREDªWITHª CRUMBLINGªVILLASªANDªFARMHOUSESª4HEªREALITYªISªRATHERª DIFFERENT ªFORªWHILEªMUCHªOFªTHEªCOUNTRYSIDEªHASªBEENªWORKEDª FORªCENTURIES ªTHEªVARIETYªOFªLANDSCAPEªISªEXTRAORDINARYª
#LASSIC«4USCAN«COUNTRYSIDE
'SPNIJHIQFBLTUPDPBTUBMQMBJOT (IGHªMOUNTAINªSCENERYªISªAªFEATUREªOFªEASTERNª5MBRIA ªWHEREªTHEª3IBILLINIªRANGEªTOPSªM ª JUSTª Aª LITTLEª HIGHERª THANª THEª ALMOSTª EQUALLYª DRAMATICª !LPIª !PUANEª ANDª /RRECCHIELLAª PEAKSª OFª NORTHWESTª 4USCANYª )Nª NORTHEASTª 4USCANY ª THEª BROADª SWEEPª OFª THEª !PENNINESª CONTAINSª THEª &ORESTEª#ASENTINESI ªAªHIGH ªWILDªUPLANDªOFªANCIENTªWOODLANDS ªWHILEªINªTHEªREGIONSªOPPOSITEª CORNER ª CLOSEª TOª THEª COAST ª THEª -AREMMAª ISª Aª GLORIOUSª MEDLEYª OFª HILLS ª PRISTINEª BEACHES ª PINEª WOODLANDSª ANDª Aª VARIETYª OFª MARINEª HABITATSª .EARBYª ISª THEª 0ARCOª .AZIONALEª !RCIPELAGOª 4OSCANO ª COMPRISINGª THEª ISLANDSª OFª %LBA ª 'IGLIO ª #APRAIA ª 'ORGONA ª 0IANOSA ª 'IANNUTRIª ANDª -ONTECRISTOªnªTHEªLARGESTªMARINEªPARKªINª%UROPE 4HROUGHOUTª BOTHª REGIONSª THEREª AREª ALSOª SMALLER ª 4HE«0IANO«'RANDE«WITH«THE«-ONTI«3IBILLINI«IN«THE«BACKGROUND ANOMALOUSª LANDSCAPESª )Nª 5MBRIAª THESEª INCLUDEª THEª DULCETª ,AGOª 4RASIMENO ª THEª STEEP SIDEDª 6ALNERINAª VALLEYª EASTªOFª3POLETO ªTHEªIMPOSINGª WHALEBACKªMOUNTAINªOFª-ONTEª 3UBASIOªABOVEª!SSISI ªANDªTHEª CAVE RIDDLED ªBAREªGRASSªSLOPESª OFª -ONTEª #UCCOª NORTHEASTª OFª 'UBBIOª)Nª4USCANYªTHEªRANGEª ISªEVENªGREATER ªFROMªTHEªSMALLª COASTALª HABITATSª OFª "łLGHERI ª ,AGOªDIª"URANOªANDª,AGUNAªDIª /RBETELLOªTOªTHEªLONELYªVOLCANICª PEAKª OFª -ONTEª !MIATAª INª THEª SOUTHª-OSTªDISTINCTIVEªOFªALLªISª THEªDSFUFªNEARª3IENA ªAªREGIONª OFª BARE ª CLAYª HILLSª ANDª RIDGESª THATª MAKEª UPª ONEª OFª )TALYSª BEST KNOWNªLANDSCAPES -ANYª OFª THESEª LANDSCAPESª ENJOYª PROTECTEDª STATUS ª INCLUDINGª NATIONAL PARKSª INª THEª 3IBILLINIª ANDª &ORESTEª #ASENTINESIª ANDª ELSEWHERE ª THOUGHª PROTECTIONª ONª THEª GROUNDª ISª OFTENª PATCHYª ATª BESTª ORª PRECARIOUSª ATª WORSTª -UCHª THEª SAME ª SADLY ª GOESª FORª SMALLERª STATEª RESERVES ª THEª 0ARCOª.ATURALEªDELLAª-AREMMAªAªNOTABLEªEXCEPTIONª"ETTERªPROTECTIONªISªGUARANTEEDªBYª77&ª STEWARDSHIP ªNAMELYªATª,AGOªDIª"URANOªANDªOTHERªSO CALLEDªh/ASIvªACROSSªTHEªREGION
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OF ,EON "ATTISTA !LBERTI THE GREAT THEORIST OF 2ENAISSANCE ART BUILDING AND TOWN PLANNING 2OSSELLINOS COMMISSION WAS TO BUILD A CATHEDRAL PAPAL PALACE AND TOWN HALL BUT 0IUS INSTRUCTED THE VARIOUS CARDINALS WHO FOLLOWED HIS COURT TO BUILD THEIR OWN RESIDENCES TOO TURNING THE PROJECT INTO NOTHING LESS THAN A 6ATICAN IN MIN IATURE SEE h0ALAZZO 6ESCOVILEv P !STONISHINGLY THE CATHEDRAL THE PAPAL AND BISHOPS PALACES AND THE CORE OF THE TOWN WERE COMPLETED IN JUST THREE YEARS ,IMITED THOUGH IT WAS IT CONSTITUTED THE lRST h)DEAL #ITYv OF THE 2ENAISSANCE TO BECOME A REALITY !FTER CONSECRATION OF THE CATHEDRAL 0IUS ISSUED A PAPAL BULL RECHRISTENING THE hCITYv 0IENZA IN HIS OWN HONOUR AND STIPULATING THAT NO DETAIL OF THE CATHEDRAL OR PALACES SHOULD BE CHANGED 4HE WISH WAS FULlLLED RATHER MORE EASILY THAN HE COULD HAVE EXPECTED FOR HE DIED WITHIN TWO YEARS AND OF HIS SUCCESSORS ONLY 0IUS ))) HIS NEPHEW PAID 0IENZA ANY REGARD 4HE CITY INTENDED TO SPREAD ACROSS THE HILL NEVER GREW BEYOND A COUPLE OF BLOCKS TO EITHER SIDE OF THE MAIN #ORSO AND ITS POPULATION REMAINED SCARCELY THAT OF A VILLAGE 4ODAY WITH A POPULATION OF IT STILL HAS AN AIR OF EMPTINESS AND FOLLY A NATURAL STAGE SET WHICH WAS USED BY :EFlRELLI FOR HIS lLM OF 2OMEO AND *ULIET
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4HE 4OWN 4HERE IS NO DIFlCULTY lNDING YOUR WAY ABOUT 0IENZA 2OADS BUSES AND CARS CONVERGE ON THE 0IAZZA $ANTE JUST OUTSIDE THE 0ORTA AL -URELLO MAIN ENTRANCE GATE TO THE PAPAL TOWN &ROM HERE THE #ORSO 2OSSELLINO LEADS TO 2OSSELLINOS CENTREPIECE 0IAZZA 0IO )) ENCLOSED BY THE $UOMO 0ALAZZO 0IC COLOMINI 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE AND 0ALAZZO 6ESCOVILE THE LAST OF THESE BUILT BY ONE OF 0IUSS MORE AMBITIOUS 6ATICAN FOLLOWERS n #ARDINAL "ORGIA THE FUTURE 0OPE !LEXANDER 6) 0IAZZA 0IO ))
4HE JUXTAPOSITION OF CIVIC AND RELIGIOUS BUILDINGS IN THE 0IAZZA 0IO )) WAS DELIBERATE AND AIMED TO UNDERLINE THE BALANCE BETWEEN #HURCH AND TOWN THROUGH ARCHITECTURAL HARMONY !PART FROM THE 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE BASED ON THE MEDIEVAL 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO IN &LORENCE THE ENSEMBLE IS ENTIRELY 2ENAISSANCE IN
CONCEPTION )F IT ALL SEEMS A LITTLE CRAMPED ITS PARTLY BECAUSE 2OSSELLINO WISHED TO RETAIN THE EXISTING EASTnWEST AXIS OF #ORSIGNANOS MAIN STREET AND PARTLY BECAUSE OF 0IUSS INSISTENCE THAT HIS PALACE LOGGIA SHOULD COMMAND A VIEW AND THAT THE $UOMO SHOULD BE mOODED WITH LIGHT MEANING THAT THE PIAZZAS TWO KEY BUILDINGS HAD TO BE ORIENTATED TOWARDS THE VALLEY TO THE REAR &OR THE $UOMO IN PARTICULAR THIS WAS TO HAVE NEAR DISASTROUS STRUCTURAL CONSEQUENCES 4HE PIAZZAS SMALL WELL THE 0OZZO DEI #ANI SETS THE TONE ITS TWIN COLUMNS AND CLASSICAL FRIEZE A PERFECT MINIATURE OF 2ENAISSANCE AMBITIONS 4HE $UOMO
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4HE $UOMO OR 3ANTA -ARIA !SSUNTA HAS ONE OF THE EARLIEST 2ENAISSANCE FACADES IN 4USCANY ITS THREE TIERED VENEER OF )STRIAN MARBLE SURMOUNTED BY A VAST GARLAND OF FRUIT ENCLOSING 0IUSS PAPAL COAT OF ARMS 4HE CAMPANILE ROCKED TO ITS FOUNDATIONS BY AN EARTHQUAKE IN WAS VIRTUALLY REBUILT IN /N 0IUSS ORDERS THE INTERIOR TOOK INSPIRATION FROM &RANCISCAN 'OTHIC CHURCHES AND THE 'ERMAN (ALLENKIRCHEN OR HALL CHURCHES WHICH HE HAD SEEN ON HIS PRE PAPAL TRAVELS AS A MEMBER OF THE #URIA 4HE HALL CHURCHES AS HERE WERE DISTINGUISHED BY NAVES AND AISLES OF EQUAL HEIGHT 4HE TALL WINDOWS WERE ALSO A PAPAL WHIM DESIGNED TO PRODUCE A DOMUS VITREA HALL OF GLASS WHOSE mOOD OF LIGHT WAS INTENDED TO SYMBOLIZE THE AGES HUMANIST ENLIGHTENMENT 0IUSS #OM MENTARIES ALSO TALK OF THE STRANGELY ELONGATED CAPITALS OF THE NAVES COLUMNS AS FELICI ERRORI OR hHAPPY ERRORSv ,EGEND CLAIMS THE POPE FOUND THE CHURCHS EARLIER COLUMNS TOO SHORT AND INSISTED THAT 2OSSELLINO lND SOME WAY OF LENGTHENING THEM )N FACT 2OSSELLINO DELIBERATELY INTRODUCED THE CAPITALS PARTLY TO ACCENTU ATE THE NAVES SOARING 'OTHIC EFFECT AND PARTLY TO EVOKE PARALLELS WITH SIMILAR CAPITALS IN 3IENAS ,OGGIA DI -ERCANZIA AND THE $UOMO ,OGGIA DEI ,ANZI AND CHURCH OF 3AN ,ORENZO IN &LORENCE 4O SATISFY 0IUSS WHIMS AND TO lT THE CRAMPED SITE 2OSSELLINO HAD TO BUILD ON SANDSTONE WITH A SUBSTRATUM OF CLAY "EFORE COMPLETION A CRACK APPEARED AND FOLLOWING AN EARTHQUAKE IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY IT HAS REQUIRED PROGRESSIVELY MORE BUTTRESSING AND TIES 4HE NAVE DIPS CRAZILY TOWARDS THE BACK OF THE CHURCH n STILL SHIFTING AT AN ESTIMATED RATE OF A MILLIMETRE A YEAR n AND ALARMING CRACKS ARE STILL ALL TOO OBVIOUS TAGGED BY SMALL GLASS TIES DESIGNED TO REVEAL FURTHER MOVEMENT !T LAST REPORT HOWEVER AUTHORITIES SAY THERE IS NO IMMINENT DANGER OF COLLAPSE AND NO NEED FOR FURTHER BUTTRESSING 3EVERAL OUTSTANDING AND CONTRASTING ALTARPIECES n THE CHURCHS HIGHLIGHTS n STILL lLL THE PRINCIPAL CHAPELS EACH COMMISSIONED BY THE POPE AND HIS ARCHITECT FROM SOME OF THE MAJOR PAINTERS OF THE AGE 0IUSS CHOICE OF ARTISTS WAS DELIB ERATE EACH WAS 3IENESE AS WAS HE AT LEAST BY FAMILY ORIGIN n 2OSSELLINO ITS WORTH NOTING WAS FROM 3ETTIGNANO JUST OUTSIDE &LORENCE 4HIS PARTISAN CHOICE HOWEVER RATHER UNDERMINED 0IUSS 2ENAISSANCE CREDENTIALS FOR &LORENTINE PAINTERS BY THIS TIME WERE FAR AHEAD OF THEIR MORE BACKWARD LOOKING 3IENESE COUNTERPARTS 0IUSS CHOICE OF EACH SUBJECT n THE -ADONNA TO WHOM THE CHURCH WAS DEDICATED n WAS EQUALLY CONSIDERED AS WAS THE CHOICE OF SAINTS INCLUDED IN EACH PAINTING 4HUS 3T 3ABINA IN 'IOVANNI DI 0AOLOS WORK WAS FEATURED BECAUSE 0IUS WAS TITULAR HEAD OF THE "ASILICA DI 3ANTA 3ABINA IN 2OME 3T 0ETER APPEARED BECAUSE HE WAS THE lRST POPE AND SAINTS #ATHERINE AND "ERNARDINO ACHIEVED PROMINENCE THROUGH THEIR 3IENESE CONNECTIONS 4HE lRST PAINTING MIDWAY DOWN THE RIGHT SOUTH WALL IS 'IOVANNI DI 0AOLOS -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 33 "ERNARDINO !NTHONY !BBOT &RANCIS AND 3ABINA WITH A 0IETÌ ABOVE n NOTE THE 0ICCOLOMINI ARMS AT THE BOTTOM LEFT AND RIGHT OF THE FRAME 4HE lRST APSE CHAPEL FEATURES -ATTEO DI 'IOVANNIS -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 33 #ATHERINE OF !LEXANDRIA -ATTHEW "ARTHOLOMEW AND ,UCY WITH THE &LAGEL
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LATION ABOVE HERE TOO THERES A NOD TO 0IUS IN THE SHAPE OF MORE COATS OF ARMS 4HE NEXT APSE CONTAINS A TRAVERTINE TABERNACLE ATTRIBUTED TO 2OSSELLINO BEHIND WHOSE LITTLE CENTRAL DOOR IS A RELIQUARY CONTAINING BONES ALLEGED TO BE FROM THE HEAD OF 3T !NDREW 0IENZAS PATRON SAINT !NOTHER WORK BY 2OSSELLINO A VAST FONT CAN BE SEEN IN THE CRYPT ALONG WITH 2OMANESQUE FRAGMENTS RECOVERED FROM 3ANTA -ARIA THE FORMER CHURCH NEAR THE SITE 4HE CENTRAL APSE n NORMALLY CONTAINING THE HIGH ALTAR n IS EMPTY 0IUS HAVING STIPULATED THAT NOTHING SHOULD BLOCK THE LIGHT COMING FROM THE CENTRAL WINDOWS )NSTEAD HE COMMISSIONED THE CHOIR THE TELL TALE PAPAL SHIELD AGAIN APPEARING AT THE TOP OF THE CENTRAL BISHOPS THRONE 4HE FOURTH CHAPEL HOUSES A TRIPTYCH OF THE !SSUMPTION WITH 33 !GATHA #AL LISTUS 0IUS ) AND #ATHERINE OF 3IENA BY 6ECCHIETTA BORN IN NEARBY #ASTIGLIONE DELL¼RCIA ITS CONSIDERED ONE OF HIS MASTERPIECES AND IS BY FAR THE lNEST OF THE CHURCHS ALTARPIECES 4HE lFTH CHAPEL FEATURES 3ANO DI 0IETROS -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 33 0HILIP *AMES !NNE AND -ARY -AGDALENE 0IUS REALIZING HIS 3IENESE PAINTERS LAGGED BEHIND &LORENTINE THINKING MADE SPECIlC REQUESTS IN AN ATTEMPT TO BRING A LITTLE 2ENAISSANCE mAVOUR TO WHAT WERE ESSENTIALLY 'OTHIC WORKS 4HUS 3ANO WAS ASKED TO REPLACE THE NICHES TRADITIONALLY USED IN THE PREDELLA PANELS IN THE LOWER PART OF ALTARPIECES WITH A MORE CLASSICAL FRAME OF SMALL PILLARS 4HE h6v ARRANGEMENT OF THE SAINTS AROUND THE 6IRGIN WAS ALSO NEW n AT LEAST IN THE WORKS OF 3ANO 6ECCHIETTA SIMILARLY STAKED A CLAIM FOR MODERNITY BY ENCLOSING HIS !SSUMPTION TRIPTYCH n VERY MUCH A 'OTHIC CONCEIT n IN A lXED FRAME THAT EFFECTIVELY MADE THE PAINTING A SINGLE RATHER THAN HINGED TRIPARTITE WORK 3IMILAR EFFORTS TOWARDS A MORE 2ENAISSANCE EFFECT ARE FOUND IN THE LAST PAINTING -ATTEO DI 'IOVANNIS -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 33 .ICHOLAS -ARTIN !UGUSTINE AND *EROME MIDWAY DOWN THE NORTH WALL 4HE SAINTS HERE FOR EXAMPLE ARE SET ON DIFFERENT LEVELS n COMPARE THE SAME ARTISTS PAINTING ACROSS THE NAVE WHERE THEY ARE ON ONE LEVEL n WHILE THE 6IRGINS UPPER THRONE IS DECORATED WITH HEADS WHOSE CLASSICAL INSPIRATION IS UNMISTAKABLE 0ALAZZO 0ICCOLOMINI
0IUSS RESIDENCE THE 0ALAZZO 0ICCOLOMINI TO THE RIGHT OF THE $UOMO WAS MODELLED ON !LBERTIS 0ALAZZO 2UCELLAI IN &LORENCE AND BUILT BY 2OSSELLINO OVER THE DEMOLISHED REMAINS OF THE 0ICCOLOMINIS FORMER FEUDAL HOLDING IN THE VIL LAGE !LL THREE MAIN FACADES ARE IDENTICAL NOVELTY BEING PROVIDED BY THE IMAGI NATIVE ADDITION OF A TRIPLE TIERED LOGGIA AT THE BACK MAKING IT THE lRST )TALIAN BUILDING TO BE DESIGNED SPECIlCALLY TO AFFORD VIEWS OVER A SWATHE OF COUNTRYSIDE )TS COST WAS ASTRONOMICAL 2OSSELLINO SPENDING GOLD mORINS lVE TIMES HIS ALLOTTED BUDGET n A CHARGE THAT HE WAS LIABLE TO REPAY 0IUS HOWEVER ACCEPTED THE EXPENSE DELIGHTED AT THE BUILDING AND ITS VIEWS (E WROTE &ROM THE THREE PORTICOES WHICH FACE THE SUN AT MIDDAY THE VIEW EXTENDS TO !MIATA THAT TOWERING AND DENSELY WOODED MOUNTAIN 4HENCE THE EYE TRAVELS DOWN INTO 6AL D¼RCIA PASSING OVER GREEN PASTURELANDS AND HILLS CLOTHED WITH LONG GRASS OR RICH CORN IN SEASON AND MANY VINEYARDS AND SO UP AGAIN TO CASTLES AND VILLAGES SET ON PRECIPITOUS ROCKS AND TO THE RIGHT AS FAR AS A PLACE CALLED "AGNO DI 6IGNONI AND LEFTWARDS TO -ONTE #ETONA WHICH IS HIGHER THAN 2ADICØFANI AND IS THE PORTAL OF THE WINTER SUN
&OR THIS VISTA YOU CAN WALK INTO THE SUPERB COURTYARD AT ANY TIME OF DAY AND THROUGH ON THE LEFT TO THE ORIGINAL hHANGING GARDENv BEHIND IT HAS REMAINED UNCHANGED OVER THE CENTURIES AND IS THE PERFECT EMBODIMENT OF THE 2ENAIS SANCE CONCEPT THAT GARDENS FORM AN INTERMEDIARY BETWEEN NATURE AND ARCHITEC TURE 4HE TRIPLE TIERED LOGGIA WITH ITS THREE ORDERS OF #LASSICAL COLUMNS )ONIC
0IENZAS PALACES 0IENZA HAS LITTLE TO SHOW IN THE WAY OF THE PALACES 0IUS ENVISAGED BEING BUILT BY HIS RETINUE OF CARDINALS 4WELVE HOUSES FOR THE hPEOPLEv WERE BUILT HOWEVER AND AT 0IUSS OWN EXPENSE SO KEEN WAS HE TO SEE HIS PERFECT CITY REALIZED "OTH CARROT AND STICK WERE EMPLOYED TO ENCOURAGE THE RELUCTANT HANGERS ON TO COMPLY WITH PAPAL WISHES MOST NOTABLY IN THE CASE OF THE HAPLESS &RANCESCO 'ONZAGA WHO WAS INFORMED IN NO UNCERTAIN TERMS THAT THE PROMISED BISHOPRIC OF -ANTUA WOULD NOT BE FORTHCOMING UNLESS A PALACE APPEARED IN 0IENZA WITH HIS NAME ON IT WHETHER THE PALACE WAS EVER BUILT IS STILL A CASE FOR DEBATE !PART FROM THE "ORGIA TRAVESTY 0ALAZZO 6ESCOVILE SEE BELOW VIRTUALLY THE ONLY PALACE TO SEE THE LIGHT OF DAY WAS THE 0ALAZZO !MMANNATI ACROSS THE STREET FROM THE 0ALAZZO 0ICCOLOMINI BUILT BY THE EPONYMOUS CARDINAL A CLOSE FRIEND OF 0IUS SADLY IT WAS STILL UNlNISHED AT THE POPES DEATH 4O ITS LEFT IS THE SMALLER 0ALAZZO DEI #ARDINALI AND TO THE RIGHT THE LARGER 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE THE LATTER PROBABLY ALSO DESIGNED BY 2OSSELLINO DESPITE ITS APPEARANCE WHICH IS MORE MEDIEVAL THAN 2ENAISSANCE
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
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$ORIC AND #ORINTHIAN OWES A CLEAR DEBT TO THE GREAT IMPERIAL BUILDINGS OF ANCIENT 2OME &OR A GLIMPSE OF THE SPLENDOUR ENVISAGED FOR 0IUS HOWEVER YOU NEED TO CLIMB THE STEPS IN THE COURTYARD TO THE lRST mOOR PAPAL APARTMENTS 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM CLOSED MID .OV TO MID $EC + OCCUPIED UNTIL BY THE 0ICCOLOMINI FAMILY 'UIDED TOURS CONDUCT YOU TO 0IUS ))S DINING ROOM LIBRARY AND MUSIC ROOM EACH lLLED WITH FURNITURE BOOKS CARPETS AND MANUSCRIPTS 4HE HIGHLIGHTS THOUGH ARE THE PAPAL BEDROOM n COMPLETE WITH A GLORIOUSLY VULGAR CANOPIED BED n AND THE CAVERNOUS 3ALA D!RMI lLLED WITH ROWS OF FEARSOME PIKES AND OTHER WEAPONS 0ALAZZO 6ESCOVILE
4HE 0ALAZZO 6ESCOVILE OR 0ALAZZO "ORGIA TO THE LEFT OF THE $UOMO BEGAN AS A SINGLE STOREY 'OTHIC PALACE BUT WAS GIVEN TO 2ODERIGO "ORGIA BY 0IUS ON CONDITION THAT HE DEMOLISH IT AND REBUILD IN A MORE MODERN MANNER "ORGIA THEN A CARDINAL WOULD LATER BECOME THE INFAMOUS 0OPE !LEXANDER 6) AND FATHER FOUR CHILDREN AMONG THEM THE NOTORIOUS ,UCREZIA AND #ESARE "ORGIA 3HOWING THE ASTUTENESS IF NOT THE MEANNESS THAT WOULD CHARACTERIZE HIS PAPACY "ORGIA REFRAINED FROM KNOCKING DOWN THE PALACE BUT SAVED MONEY BY ALTERING A FEW SUPERlCIAL DETAILS AND ADDING AN EXTRA STOREY 4HUS ON THE GROUND mOOR n CLEARLY OF DIFFERENT VINTAGE n YOU CAN STILL SEE THE OUTLINES OF THE OLD 'OTHIC WINDOWS BRICKED IN TO FORM TINY SQUARE WINDOWS MORE IN KEEPING WITH 2EN AISSANCE IDEAS 3TILL MORE VISIBLE ARE THE HOLES THAT POCKMARK THE UPPER PART OF THE BUILDING THE LEGACY OF A MORTAR BOMBARDMENT DURING 7ORLD 7AR )) THAT ALSO KNOCKED CHUNKS OUT OF THE CATHEDRALS APSE 4HE HIGHEST MARKS HAVE AN EVEN EARLIER VINTAGE HAVING BEEN INmICTED BY THE ARTILLERY OF #HARLES 6 AND THE -EDICI DURING THEIR ASSAULT ON THE 3IENESE 2EPUBLIC BETWEEN AND (OW MUCH TIME "ORGIA SPENT IN THE PALACE IS UNCERTAIN n THOUGH THE "ORGIA ARMS ARE CLEARLY VISIBLE ON THE SHIELD ON THE CORNER OF THE BUILDING )N ANY EVENT IT APPEARS HE MADE A GIFT OF THE BUILDING IN WHEN IT BECAME THE 0ALAZZO 6ESCOVILE OR "ISHOPS 0ALACE -USEO $IOCESANO
,IKE MANY SMALL SOUTHERN 4USCAN MUSEUMS THE -USEO $IOCESANO #ORSO 2OSSELLINO -ARCHn/CT -ON 7EDn3UN AMnPM nPM .OVn*AN
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3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9 0IENZA
&RIn3UN n *AN TO MID -ARCH 3AT 3UN AMnPM nPM + DESERVES MORE ATTENTION THAN IT RECEIVES )TS STAR ATTRACTION IS A SUPERB THIR TEENTH OR FOURTEENTH CENTURY PIVIALE OR COPE AN %NGLISH WORK SIGNED /PUS !NGLICANUM OF FANTASTICALLY EMBROIDERED SILK EMBELLISHED WITH SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF THE 6IRGIN AND 3T #ATHERINE OF !LEXANDRIA TOGETHER WITH VARIOUS SAINTS AND APOSTLES ORIGINALLY THE COPE WOULD ALSO HAVE BEEN STUDDED WITH PEARLS AND PRECIOUS STONES 4RADITION CLAIMS IT WAS GIVEN TO 0IUS BY 4HOMAS 0ALEOLOGUS PRINCE OF THE 0ELOPONNESE AND BROTHER OF THE "YZANTINE EMPEROR (OWEVER ITS MORE LIKELY TO DERIVE FROM A PAPAL WARDROBE DATING FROM THE PAPACYS SOJOURN IN !VIGNON WHERE IT APPEARS IN AN INVENTORY DATED 4HE MUSEUM ALSO CONTAINS SUPERB TAPESTRIES CROSIERS MINIATURES ILLUMI NATED MANUSCRIPTS CHOIR BOOKS WITH MINIATURES BY 3ANO DI 0IETRO AND OTHERS n PRODUCED FOR /RVIETO CATHEDRAL BUT BOUGHT BY 0IUS n AND A WHOLE SLEW OF TOPNOTCH PAINTINGS ,OOK OUT IN PARTICULAR FOR THE -ADONNA DELL5MILTÌ AND 33 %LIZABETH OF (UNGARY AND *OHN THE "APTIST AN ANONYMOUS WORK BY THE h-AESTRO DELL/SSERVANZAv SO CALLED BECAUSE ITS -ADONNA IS SHOWN SEATED ON A SIMPLE ORIENTAL CARPET RATHER THAN THE MORE USUAL ORNATE THRONE !LSO OUTSTANDING ARE A FAMOUS -ADONNA DELLA -ISERICORDIA C BY "ARTOLO DI &REDI HIS lRST SIGNED AND DATED WORK AMONG THE lGURES SHELTERED BY THE VERMILION ROBED -ADONNA ARE THE %MPEROR #HARLES )6 IN RED CLOAK AND CROWN ON THE RIGHT WHO VIS ITED 3IENA IN EN ROUTE FOR 2OME TOGETHER WITH THE POPE ALONGSIDE AND #HARLESS QUEEN TO THE LEFT CROWNED IN PINK )T SEEMS LIKELY 3IENAS #OUNCIL OF 4WELVE THEN IN THRALL TO THE EMPEROR COMMISSIONED THE WORK TO COMMEMORATE THE VISIT -ORE EYE CATCHING STILL IS A MAGNIlCENT PANEL PAINTING WHOSE TINY ANONY MOUS MINIATURES DEPICT SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF #HRIST )T WAS ONE OF ONLY A HANDFUL OF SURVIVING hPORTABLEv PAINTINGS ONCE USED BY MENDICANT MONKS AS A PREACHING AID DURING THEIR PERAMBULATIONS AROUND THE COUNTRYSIDE 4HE PICTURE WAS BROUGHT HERE FROM THE CASTLE OF 3PEDALETTO IN THE 6AL D¼RCIA TOGETHER WITH A PAINTING OFTEN REGARDED AS THE lRST 2ENAISSANCE 3IENESE PAINTING 6ECCHIETTAS SEMINAL POLYPTYCH OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 33 "LAISE &LORIAN *OHN THE "APTIST AND .ICHOLAS 4HE LUNETTE CLEARLY &LORENTINE IN mAVOUR DEPICTS THE !NNUNCIATION WHOSE RECEDING CLASSICAL COLUMNS AND THREE NAVES OF EQUAL HEIGHT DELIBERATELY RECALL THE DESIGN OF THE $UOMO 4HE PREDELLA BY CONTRAST DEPICTS THREE SCENES WITH A MORE 3IENESE TOUCH THE #RUCIlXION WITH 3IENAS BARE HILLED CRETE AS BACKGROUND THE -IRACLES OF 3T .ICHOLAS AND THE -ARTYRDOM OF 3T "LAISE FOR MORE ON "LAISE SEE P 4HE REST OF THE TOWN
! SHORT WAY DOWN THE MAIN STREET FROM 0IAZZA 0IO )) STANDS THE CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCESCO ONE OF TWO CHURCHES TO SURVIVE FROM THE ORIGINAL #ORSIGNANO AND THE ONLY SIGNIlCANT MEDIEVAL BUILDING REMAINING IN 0IENZA )TS WALLS WERE ONCE ENTIRELY COVERED IN FOURTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES ONLY A FEW OF WHICH SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF 3T &RANCIS SURVIVE IN THE APSE -ORE REMAINS OF THE LARGE #RU CIlX ON THE RIGHT A FOURTEENTH CENTURY WORK BY A FOLLOWER OF $UCCIO AND THE ARRESTING -ADONNA DELLA -ISERICORDIA ON THE LEFT ATTRIBUTED TO ,UCA 3IGNORELLI "E CERTAIN TO TAKE THE ALLEY TO THE LEFT OF THE CHURCH n OR THOSE TO EITHER SIDE OF THE $UOMO n TO GAIN ACCESS TO 0IENZAS WALLS REBUILT AFTER BEING RAZED TO THE GROUND BY THE ARMIES OF THE -EDICI AND #HARLES 6 OF 3PAIN IN 9OU CAN SEE WHY 0IUS WANTED HIS LOGGIA FOR THE VIEWS FROM HERE ARE SOME OF THE lNEST FROM ANY TOWN IN 4USCANY (EAD EAST PAST THE $UOMO AND YOU COME TO A LOVELY SERIES OF LITTLE LANES LEADING BACK INTO THE VILLAGE EACH WITH IMPOSSIBLY TWEE NAMES n NOTABLY 6IA DELL!MORE STREET OF LOVE AND 6IA DEL "ACIO STREET
OF THE KISS THE NAMES WERE ALTERED FROM MORE WARLIKE ONES IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY SO AS TO BE MORE IN KEEPING WITH THE VILLAGES 2ENAISSANCE IDEA OF ITSELF )N THE OTHER DIRECTION A MORE RURAL LANE RUNS OUT OF 0IAZZA $ANTE ALONG A LEVEL RIDGE PAST PUBLIC GARDENS .OT TO BE MISSED IS THE TEN MINUTE DOWNHILL WALK FROM 0IAZZA $ANTE SIGNED OFF THE SOUTH SIDE TO THE 0IEVE DI #ORSIGNANO OR 3AN 6ITO THE VILLAGES ORIGINAL PARISH CHURCH AND THE PLACE WHERE 0IUS WAS BAPTIZED %XTREMELY ANCIENT IT PROBABLY DATES FROM THE TENTH CENTURY AND IS ONE OF THE BEST 2OMAN ESQUE CHURCHES FOR MILES AROUND 4HE CYLINDRICAL TOWER n USED TO SHELTER THE TOWNSPEOPLE DURING BANDIT RAIDS n IS HIGHLY UNUSUAL AS ARE THE CARVINGS ABOVE THE MAIN AND SIDE DOORS 9OU CAN GET THE KEY FROM THE FARMHOUSE JUST BEHIND THE CHURCH n LEAVE A SMALL TIP
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
\ 0IENZA 5 3HOP SELLING CHEESE AND OTHER LOCAL PRODUCE 0IENZA
0RACTICALITIES
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3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9 0IENZA
0IENZA IS A PLEASANT PLACE TO STAY BUT THERES NOT MUCH LIFE AFTER DARK SO IT MIGHT ALSO BE CONSIDERED AS A DAY TRIP FROM -ONTEPULCIANO 42! ). BUSES COVER THE ROUTES TO "UONCONVENTO AND 3IENA DAILY AND -ONTEPULCIANO DAILY FOR DETAILS OF TIMES CALL IN AT THE HELPFUL TOURIST OFlCE -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM OR WWWCOMUNEDIPIENZAIT INSIDE THE 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE ON 0IAZZA 0IO )) )F YOURE STRANDED AND NEED A TAXI RING "IKES CAN BE RENTED FROM 6ALENTI 6IA DELLA -ADONNINA !MONG 0IENZAS FESTIVALS IS THE )NCONTRO CON ) -AESTRI DELL!RTE h-EETING WITH A -ASTER OF !RTv WHEN THE WORK OF A CONTEMPORARY )TALIAN ARTIST IS EXHIBITED IN THE 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE OVER !UGUST AND 3EPTEMBER !CCOMMODATION IS LIMITED THE 2ISTORANTE DAL &ALCO AT 0IAZZA $ANTE HAS SIX ROOMS EACH WITH BATHROOM BUT THEYRE QUICKLY SNAPPED UP -UCH MORE EXPENSIVE IS THE MODERN BUT VERY PLEASANT THREE STAR (OTEL )L #ORSIGNANO 6IA DELLA -ADONNINA ABOUT M WEST OF THE PIAZZA ON THE LEFT WWWCORSIGNANOIT ROOMS AT THE BACK HAVE LITTLE TERRACES AND SOMETHING OF A VIEW )F YOURE DOING 4USCANY IN STYLE OR FANCY A TREAT THE OBVIOUS CHOICE IS THE THREE STAR )L #HIOSTRO DI 0IENZA #ORSO 2OS SELLINO WWWRELAISILCHIOSTRODIPIENZACOM 4HE ONLY IN TOWN HOTEL ITS AN EXTREMELY CHI CHI CONVERSION n COMPLETE WITH FRESCOES VAULTS AND OTHER MEDIEVAL TRAPPINGS n WHICH HAS BEEN INlLTRATED INTO THE OLD CLOISTER AND BUILDINGS OF A &RANCISCAN MONASTERY !MONG RESTAURANTS THE BEST ARE $AL &ALCO IN 0IAZZA $ANTE CLOSED &RI A SIMPLE TRATTORIA WHICH OFFERS SUPERB GNOCCHI AND A lLLING PECORINO ALLA GRIGLIA HOT CHEESE WRAPPED IN PROSCIUTTO AT AROUND + FOR A FULL MEAL AND THE EXCELLENT FRIENDLY AND MODERATELY PRICED ,ATTE DI ,UNA 6IA 3AN #ARLO n CLOSED 4UES AND PERIODS IN .OV &EB BLESSED WITH A SMALL TERRACE FOR OUTDOOR EATING AND AN ANCIENT WELL INCORPORATED INTO THE OLD INTE RIOR !LSO REASONABLY GOOD VALUE IS ,A "UCA DELLE &ATE #ORSO 2OSSELLINO A CLOSED -ON AND PERIODS IN *AN *UNE HOUSED IN PART OF THE lFTEENTH CENTURY PALACE OF THE 'ONZAGAS AND WITH THOROUGHLY 4USCAN COUNTRY FOOD 9OU CAN GET PANINI AND SNACKS AT THE %NOTECA LE #RETE IN 0IAZZA -ARTIRI AND THERES NO SHORTAGE OF PICNIC FOOD 0IENZA IS CENTRE OF A REGION PRODUCING PECORINO SHEEPS CHEESE AND HAS GONE OVERBOARD ON ALIMENTARI AND hNATURAL FOODv SHOPS 4HE &IERA DEL #ACIO lRST 3UN IN 3EPT CELEBRATES THE LOCAL PECORINO WITH A MEDIEVAL MARKET AND FAIR IN THE MAIN SQUARE
%AST TO -ONTEPULCIANO -ONTICCHIELLO 4HE AREA AROUND 0IENZA IS ENTICING WALKING COUNTRY 4HE TRACK WEST TO "AGNO 6IGNONI IS A lNE TWO HOUR WALK 4O THE EAST ITS AROUND KM ALONG THE OLD ROAD THROUGH -ONTICCHIELLO TO -ONTEPULCIANO -/.4)##()%,,/ KM EAST OF 0IENZA IS A MINOR ATTRACTION IN ITSELF A WALLED VILLAGE WITH A LEANING WATCHTOWER LOVELY VIEWS OF 0IENZA AND A GREAT CHURCH IF THIS IS LOCKED YOU CAN COLLECT A KEY FROM THE HOUSE NEXT DOOR WHICH HOUSES NUMEROUS FOURTEENTH CENTURY 3IENESE FRESCOES n LOOK OUT FOR THE GARGANTUAN 3T #HRISTOPHER n AND A -ADONNA BY 0IETRO ,ORENZETTI /UTSIDE THE CHURCH IN THE CORNER ON THE RIGHT AS YOU STAND WITH YOUR BACK TO THE FACADE IS A TINY OLD FASHIONED SHOP SELLING SOME OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL FABRICS IMAGINABLE 4HEYRE ALL MADE BY HAND LOCALLY AND ARE EXPORTED n QUIETLY n TO ALL CORNERS OF THE GLOBE !S AN ADDED BONUS THE HAMLET HAS A MORE THAN DECENT MODERATELY PRICED RESTAURANT THE 4AVERNA DI -ORANDA 6IA DI -EZZO WWWTAVERNADIMORANDAIT CLOSED -ON AND PERIODS IN .OV $EC *AN &EB
RUN BY AN )TALO &RENCH COUPLE WHO OFFER SUPERB LOCAL FOOD AND AN EXTENSIVE SELECTION OF BIG NAME LOCAL WINES $URING THE LAST WEEK OF *ULY AND THE lRST WEEK OF !UGUST THE VILLAGE PUTS ON A NOW RENOWNED 4EATRO 0OVERO OR WWW TEATROPOVEROIT FEATURING A PLAY WRITTEN AND PERFORMED BY THE VILLAGERS TO EVOKE THE LOCAL FOLK AND FARMING TRADITIONS n A KIND OF 4USCAN !RCHERS )TS A PLEASANTLY INFORMAL OCCASION ENJOYED EQUALLY FOR THE FOOD AT THE TAVERNA SET UP FOR THE DURATION OF THE FESTIVAL ! LARGE EXHIBITION SPACE IN A FORMER GRANARY AT 0IAZZA .UOVA 4UESn3UN GUIDED YOURS ON THE HOUR AMnPM INCLUSIVE FREE IS GIVEN OVER TO PROPS STAGE SETS AND AUDIO VISUAL DISPLAYS CONNECTED WITH THE PLAY AND ITS HISTORY
-ONTEPULCIANO 3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
\ -ONTEPULCIANO
/NE OF THE HIGHEST OF THE 4USCAN HILL TOWNS -/.4%05,#)!./ M IS BUILT ALONG A NARROW TUFA RIDGE WITH A LONG MAIN STREET AND ALLEYS THAT DROP AWAY TO THE WALLS )TS A STUNNINGLY GOOD LOOKING TOWN FULL OF VISTAS ODD SQUARES AND CORNERS AND ENDOWED WITH DOZENS OF 2ENAISSANCE PALAZZI AND CHURCHES WHICH EMBODY THE STATE OF ARCHITECTURE lFTY YEARS AFTER "ERNARDO 2OSSELLINOS PIONEERING WORK AT 0IENZA ,ARGELY FORGOTTEN IN SUBSEQUENT CEN TURIES THE TOWN TODAY MAKES MOST OF ITS MONEY FROM ITS WINE INDUSTRY BASED ON THE FAMED 6INO .OBILE THOUGH ITS TOURIST PROlLE BECOMES HIGHER WITH EACH PASSING YEAR !LONG WITH -ONTALCINO ITS PERHAPS THE BEST BASE IN SOUTH ERN 4USCANY WITH 0IENZA #HIUSI AND "AGNO 6IGNONI ALL WITHIN EASY REACH BY CAR OR PUBLIC TRANSPORT 3OME HISTORY
-ONTEPULCIANOS UNUSUALLY CONSISTENT ARRAY OF 2ENAISSANCE PALAZZI AND CHURCHES IS A REmECTION OF ITS REMARKABLE DEVELOPMENT AFTER WHEN FOLLOWING INTER MITTENT ALLIANCE WITH 3IENA THE TOWN lNALLY THREW IN ITS LOT WITH &LORENCE )N THAT YEAR THE &LORENTINES SENT !NTONIO DA 3ANGALLO THE %LDER TO REBUILD THE TOWNS GATES AND WALLS WHICH HE DID SO IMPRESSIVELY THAT THE COUNCIL TOOK HIM ON TO WORK ON THE TOWN HALL AND A SERIES OF CHURCHES 4HE LOCAL NOBLES MEAN WHILE HIRED HIM HIS NEPHEW AND LATER THE -ODENA BORN ARCHITECT 6IGNOLA n A FOUNDING lGURE OF "AROQUE n TO WORK ON THEIR OWN PALAZZI 4HE WORK OF THIS TRIO ASSURED IN BOTH ITS CONCEPTION AND EXECUTION MAKES A FASCINATING COMPARI SON WITH 2OSSELLINOS WORK AT 0IENZA -ONTEPULCIANO WAS REPUTEDLY FOUNDED IN THE SIXTH CENTURY BY A GROUP OF EXILES FROM #HIUSI mEEING THE BARBARIAN INVASIONS THE lRST WRITTEN ALLUSION TO -ON 0OLITIANUS APPEARING IN HENCE POLIZIANI THE NICKNAME FOR THE TOWNS INHABITANTS ! CONSTANT POINT OF DISPUTE BETWEEN &LORENCE AND 3IENA THE TOWN CHOSE &LORENCE AS ITS PROTECTOR IN n ON THE GROUNDS THAT IT WAS FARTHER AWAY "OTH CITIES CAPTURED AND LOST THE TOWN SEVERAL TIMES OVER THE NEXT TWO HUNDRED YEARS WHILE HER CITIZENS SUFFERED SEVERAL DECADES OF DESPOTIC RULE DURING THE lFTEENTH CENTURY UNDER THE DEL 0ECORA CLAN )N HOWEVER THE &LORENTINES AGAIN ASSUMED CONTROL THIS TIME FOR GOOD &AMOUS NAMES FROM -ONTEPULCIANO INCLUDE THE GREAT CLASSICAL SCHOLAR !NGELO !MBROGINI n BETTER KNOWN BY HIS ADOPTED NAME OF 0OLIZIANO WHICH HE TOOK IN HONOUR OF HIS HOME TOWN -ARCELLUS )) n A POPE WHO HAD THE MISFORTUNE TO DIE JUST THREE WEEKS AFTER BEING ELECTED PONTIFF WAS ALSO BORN HERE
!RRIVAL INFORMATION AND ACCOMMODATION -ONTEPULCIANO IS ON THE MAIN BUS ROUTE BETWEEN 3IENA AND #HIUSI AND IS ALSO SERVED BY ONE BUS DAILY FROM &LORENCE )TS TRAIN STATION IS ON THE 3IENAn#HIUSI LINE TOO BUT YOULL NEED A NOT ALWAYS CONNECTING BUS FOR THE KM TRIP INTO TOWN 2EGULAR BUSES ALSO LINK WITH MORE FREQUENT MAIN LINE TRAINS AT #HIUSI NOT MUCH FARTHER AWAY 4HE BUSES STOP IN TOWN AT BOTH THE NORTH AND SOUTH GATES
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THE 0ORTA AL 0RATO AND 0ORTA DI &ARINE BUSES ARRIVE AT THE LATTER lRST n CLIMB THE STEPS ABOVE THE BUS STOP TO GET INTO TOWN n THOUGH 0ORTA AL 0RATO AT THE LOWER END OF TOWN IS THE MAIN hBUS STATIONv )F YOURE DRIVING FOLLOW THE ROAD AROUND BELOW THE EAST CIRCUIT OF WALLS AND LOOK FOR A PARKING SPACE DONT BE TEMPTED BY THE AREA AROUND THE 0ORTA AL 0RATO OR YOULL BE TICKETED 5P AROUND THE &ORTEZZA IS ALSO A GOOD PLACE TO START LOOKING 4HE OFlCIAL TOURIST OFlCE IS TOWARDS THE LOWER END OF TOWN CLOSE TO 3ANT!GOSTINO AT 6IA 'RACCIANO NEL #ORSO A !PRILn/CT -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM .OVn-ARCH -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM WWW PROLOCOMONTEPULCIANOIT OR WWWCOMUNEMONTEPULCIANOSIIT )NFORMATION ON LOCAL WINE AND WINE TOURS AND IN PARTICULAR THE DRIVING ROUTES AROUND VINE YARDS AND PRODUCERS IS AVAILABLE AT 0IAZZA 'RANDE WWW STRADAVINONOBILEIT 3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
!CCOMMODATION
/NCE AGAIN ACCOMMODATION IS SPARSE AND WELL WORTH BOOKING AHEAD )F YOU CANT GET INTO ANY OF OUR RECOMMENDATIONS TRY CONTACTING THE TOURIST OFlCE TO CHECK ON THE AVAILABILITY OF PRIVATE ROOMS OR AGRITURISMO OPTIONS /R VIST THE LOCAL HOTELERS WEBSITE WWWMONTEPULCIANOHOTELSIT 5NLESS YOU HAVE TRANS PORT DONT SETTLE FOR A ROOM OR HOTEL AT THE OUTLYING STATION AREA -ONTEPUL CIANOn3TAZIONE!CQUAVIVA OR AT 3ANT!LBINO4ERME DI -ONTEPULCIANO KM SOUTHEAST )F YOURE REALLY STUCK ITS PROBABLY BEST TO GET THE BUS TO THE BLAND SPA RESORT OF #HIANCIANO 4ERME KM SOUTHEAST SEE P
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"ELLAVISTA 'ABRIELLA -ASSONI 6IA 2ICCI WWWCRETEDISIENACOM 3IX WELL SITUATED PRIVATE ROOMS lVE WITH PRIVATE BATH &OUR HAVE STUPENDOUS VIEWS .O ONE LIVES HERE SO YOU MUST RING lRST AND THE OWNER WILL DRIVE UP TO LET YOU IN THERES A PUBLIC PHONE IN THE DOORWAY DOWNSTAIRS $UOMO 6IA 3AN $ONATO WWWALBERGOILDUOMOLIBEROIT ! FRIENDLY WEL COME THIRTEEN SPACIOUS AND COMFORTABLE ROOMS THREE STAR FACILITIES AND A NICE SETTING OFF THE 0IAZZA 'RANDE MAKE THIS THE TOWNS BEST UPMARKET HOTEL )L "ORGHETTO 6IA "ORGO "UIO WWWILBORGHETTOIT -ONTEPULCIANOS GRANDEST THREE STAR HOTEL IN A VERY TASTEFULLY REFURBISHED OLD HOUSE OFF 6IA 'RACCIANO NEL #ORSO *UST ELEVEN ROOMS SO BE SURE TO BOOK
)L #ITTINO -ARCELLA 4RABALZINI 6ICOLO DELLA 6IA .UOVA 4HREE DECENT ROOMS WITH A SHARED BATHROOM ABOVE A RESTAURANT LOCATED MIDWAY BETWEEN THE TOWN GATES OFF 6IA DI 6OLTAIA NEL #ORSO
,A 4ERRAZZA 6IA 0IÒ AL 3ASSO WWWLATERRAZZADIMONTEPULCIANOCOM 0LEAS ANT TWO STAR ROOMS IN AN ANCIENT HOUSE NEAR THE $UOMO -ARZOCCO 0IAZZA 'IRALOMO 3AVONAROLA WWW ALBERGOILMARZOCCOIT 3MARTEST HOTEL IN TOWN AN ELEGANT NINETEENTH CENTURY INN WITH A FULL SIZE BIL LIARD TABLE 6ERY COURTEOUS OWNERS BUT LOSES OUT TO THE $UOMO ON POSITION -EUBLÒ )L 2ICCIO )VANA -IGLIORUCCI 6IA 4ALOSA WWWILRICCIONET &IVE WELL KEPT PRIVATE DOUBLE ROOMS EACH WITH PRIVATE BATHROOM 46 AND PHONE OFF 0IAZZA 'RANDE -ONTORIO 3TRADA PER 0IENZA WWWMONTORIOCOM ! MEM BER OF THE h!BITARE LA 3TORIAv ASSOCIATION WHOSE HOTELS OCCUPY HISTORIC BUILDINGS IN THIS CASE A lNE COUNTRY HOUSE JUST OUTSIDE -ONTEPULCIANO ON THE 0IENZA ROAD WITH A LOVELY GARDEN AND TERRACES COVERED WITH CYPRESSES AND OLIVE TREES 4HERE ARE lVE APARTMENTS FOR TWO OR FOUR PEOPLE EACH WITH KITCHEN AND FURNISHED WITH ANTIQUES
4HE 4OWN
4HE 0RATO AND &ARINE GATES ARE EQUALLY CONVENIENT STARTING POINTS FOR EXPLOR ING THE TOWN OUR ACCOUNT BEGINS AT THE 0ORTA AL 0RATO "ETWEEN THE TWO GATES RUNS THE TOWNS MAIN STREET THE #ORSO WHOSE NAME IS APPENDED IN TURN TO 6IA 'RACCIANO 6IA DI 6OLTAIA AND 6IA DELL/PIO 4HE TOWNS MAIN FOCUS IS THE 0IAZZA
'RANDE HOME TO THE $UOMO AND AN ENSEMBLE OF PALACES 4O SEE THE TOWNS OTHER BIG SIGHT THE 2ENAISSANCE CHURCH OF 3AN "IAGIO REQUIRES A PLEASANT TEN MINUTE STROLL DOWNHILL TO THE WEST OF TOWN 4HE #ORSO 0ORTA AL 0RATO TO THE &ORTRESS
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3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9 -ONTEPULCIANO
3ANGALLOS lRST COMMISSION WAS -ONTEPULCIANOS MAIN GATE THE 0ORTA AL 0RATO AT THE NORTH END OF TOWN "EFORE EMBARKING ON THE CLIMB UP YOU SHOULD VISIT THE CHURCH OF 3ANT!GNESE NAMED IN HONOUR OF A LOCAL $OMINICAN ABBESS !GNESE 3EGNI n WHO WAS CANONIZED IN AND IS BURIED IN THE CHURCH 4HE lRST CHAPEL ON THE RIGHT CONTAINS THE -ADONNA DI :OCCOLI ATTRIBUTED TO 3IMONE -ARTINI OR HIS SCHOOL WHILE THE SECOND ALTAR ON THE LEFT FEATURES A FOURTEENTH CENTURY 3IENESE FRESCO OF THE -ADONNA DEL ,ATTE 4HIS SUBJECT WHICH SHOWS A BREAST FEEDING -ADONNA IS A COMMON FEATURE OF 3IENESE AND 4USCAN PAINTING OF THE PERIOD THE 6IRGINS MILK IN #HRISTIAN ICONOGRAPHY SYMBOLIZING THE FONT OF %TERNAL ,IFE MANY A 4USCAN CHURCH IN THE -IDDLE !GES CLAIMED TO HAVE GENUINE DROPS OF THE -ADONNAS MILK 4HE SUBJECT VANISHED ENTIRELY FOLLOWING THE #OUNCIL OF 4RENT WHICH IN A lT OF #OUNTERn2EFORMATIONARY ZEAL BANNED ANY USE OF hUNNECESSARYv NUDITY IN THE PORTRAYAL OF RELIGIOUS CHAR ACTERS )NSIDE THE 0ORTA AL 0RATO THE #ORSO BEGINS THE PALAZZI IMMEDIATELY MAKING CLEAR THE TOWNS ALLEGIANCE TO &LORENCE )N THE lRST SQUARE BESIDE THE !LBERGO -ARZOCCO IS THE #OLONNA DEL -ARZOCCO A STONE COLUMN BEARING THE HERALDIC LION MARZOCCO OF &LORENCE 4HE ORIGINAL LION NOW IN THE MUSEUM THIS IS AN COPY WAS lXED TO ITS COLUMN IN WHEN IT REPLACED A STATUE OF THE SHE WOLF SUCKLING 2OMULUS AND 2EMUS THE SYMBOL OF 3IENA ACCORDING TO LEGEND THE CITY WAS FOUNDED BY 3ENIUS SON OF 2EMUS !CROSS THE STREET FURTHER LION HEADS DECORATE THE 0ALAZZO !VIGNONESI NO PROBABLY THE WORK OF 6IGNOLA 3ANGALLO MAKES A SECOND APPEARANCE WITH THE 0ALAZZO #OCCONI NO VIRTUALLY OPPOSITE THE 0ALAZZO "UCELLI NO WHOSE BASE IS STRIKINGLY INSET WITH 2OMAN AND %TRUSCAN RELIEFS 4HESE WERE LOVINGLY COLLECTED IN BY THE PALACES ERSTWHILE OWNER 0IETRO "UCELLI WHOSE EXTENSIVE %TRUSCAN COLLEC TION n AN UNUSUAL ONE GIVEN THE CLASSICALLY OBSESSED ERA IN WHICH IT WAS AMASSED n NOW RESIDES IN &LORENCES -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO *UST BEYOND THIS CROP OF PALAZZI IS THE EYE CATCHING CHURCH OF 3ANT!GOSTINO DESIGNED AROUND BY THE EARLIER -EDICI PROTÏGÏ -ICHELOZZO n WHO ALSO CARVED THE TERRACOTTA RELIEF OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD ABOVE THE DOOR WITHIN ARE A #RUCIlXION ON THE THIRD ALTAR ON THE LEFT WALL BY ,ORENZO DI #REDI AND AN EQUALLY GOOD 3T "ERNARDINO BY 'IOVANNI DI 0AOLO ON THE RIGHT WALL 0RIDE OF PLACE GOES TO A POLYCHROME #RUCIlX ON THE HIGH ALTAR ATTRIBUTED TO $ONATELLO !CROSS THE STREET A MEDIEVAL TOWER HOUSE A RARE SURVIVAL IN -ONTEPULCIANO IS SURMOUNTED BY A COMMEDIA DELLARTE lGURE OF A CLOWN THE 0ULCINELLA WHO STRIKES OUT THE HOURS ON THE TOWN CLOCK MOST UN 4USCAN IT IS SAID TO HAVE BEEN PUT UP BY AN EXILED BISHOP FROM .APLES !BOUT A HUNDRED METRES FARTHER ALONG YOU REACH THE 2ENAISSANCE ,OGGIA DI -ERCATO AND A FORK IN THE ROADS TURN RIGHT HERE IF YOU WANT TO MAKE STRAIGHT FOR THE 0IAZZA 'RANDE SEE BELOW 4HE #ORSO CONTINUES TO THE LEFT PAST FURTHER PALAZZI INCLUDING THE 0ALAZZO #ERVINI ATTRIBUTED TO 3ANGALLO "EGUN FOR THE DOOMED -ARCELLUS )) BEFORE HE BECAME POPE IT IS NOW OCCUPIED BY A BANK AND HAS THE GRAND CIVIC GESTURE OF AN EXTERNAL COURTYARD "EYOND THIS YOU PASS THE CHURCH OF 'ESá REMODELLED IN "AROQUE STYLE BY !NDREA 0OZZO AS ARE MANY OTHER CHURCHES IN THE TOWN AND REGION BEFORE THE ROAD TURNS THE CORNER AND RAMBLES OUTSIDE THE TOWN WALLS *UST PRIOR TO THE TURN n AT NO n IS THE #ASA DI 0OLIZIANO BIRTHPLACE OF THE 2ENAISSANCE HUMANIST AND POET !NGELO !MBROGINI
0OLIZIANO WHO TRANSLATED MANY OF THE 'REEK CLASSICS UNDER THE PATRONAGE OF ,ORENZO DE -EDICI AS WELL AS TEACHING THE -EDICI CHILDREN 6IA DI 0OLIZIANO LOOPS OUTSIDE THE WALLS TO THE 'OTHIC FRONTED 3ANTA -ARIA DEI 3ERVI ANOTHER "AROQUE INTERIOR JOB BY 0OZZO )NSIDE ITS VISITED BY DEVOUT LOCALS EAGER TO PROSTRATE THEMSELVES BEFORE THE MUCH VENERATED -ADONNA DELLA 3ANTOREGGIA A lFTEENTH CENTURY FRESCO SECOND ALTAR ON THE LEFT 4HE ONLY OTHER ATTENTION GRABBING WORK IS A -ADONNA AND #HILD ODDLY INSERTED INTO A LARGER PAINTING THIRD ALTAR ON THE RIGHT BY A FOLLOWER OF $UCCIO 6IA DI 0OLIZIANO THEN RE ENTERS TOWN BY THE OLD &ORTEZZA NOW PARTLY OCCUPIED BY HOUSES !T THE END OF 6IA DI 3AN $ONATO THE LAST QUIET STRETCH BACK INTO TOWN YOULL lND YOURSELF IN THE CATHEDRAL AND TOWN HALL SQUARE 0IAZZA 'RANDE 3ANTA ,UCIA 6IA DEL 0OGGIO AND THE -USEO #IVICO
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
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! QUICKER APPROACH TO 0IAZZA 'RANDE AT THE ,OGGIA DI -ERCATO SEE ABOVE WOULD BE TO HEAD RIGHT ! BLOCK TO THE NORTH OF HERE A BEAUTIFUL LITTLE PIAZZA FRONTS THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA ,UCIA BUILT IN WHICH HAS A FABULOUS IF DAMAGED -ADONNA BY ,UCA 3IGNORELLI IN A CHAPEL ON THE RIGHT THOUGH THE CHURCH IS RARELY OPEN 4URN ING INSTEAD TO THE SOUTH 6IA DEL 0OGGIO RUNS DOWN TO THE CHURCH OF 3AN &RANC ESCO NOTE THE RUINED PULPIT TO THE SIDE OF THE FACADE FROM WHICH 3T "ERNARDINO OF 3IENA IS SUPPOSED TO HAVE PREACHED 4HE IMPOSING 6IA 2ICCI TAKES OVER FOR THE LAST STRETCH TO THE 0IAZZA 'RANDE IT IS mANKED ON ONE SIDE BY THE 2ENAISSANCE 0ALAZZO 2ICCI AND ON THE OTHER BY THE 3IENESE 'OTHIC 0ALAZZO .ERI /RSELLI 4HE LATTER IS HOME TO THE TOWNS -USEO #IVICO 4UESn3UN AMnPM + AN EXTENSIVE COLLECTION OF SMALL TOWN 'OTHIC AND 2ENAISSANCE WORKS 4HE COURTYARD CONTAINS THE ORIGINAL &LORENTINE MARZOCCO LION REMOVED FROM THE #ORSO WHILE THE UPPER mOOR ROOM OPENS WITH A SERIES OF GLAZED TERRACOTTAS BY !NDREA DELLA 2OBBIA 4HE MOST IMPORTANT PANEL IS A 3T &RANCIS PAINTED BY THE SAINTS NEAR CONTEMPORARY -ARGARITONE DA !REZZO THE MOST ENJOYABLE IS *ACOPO DE -INOS LUSH #ORONATION OF THE 6IRGIN 4HE 0IAZZA 'RANDE
4HE 0IAZZA 'RANDE -ONTEPULCIANOS THEATRICAL mOURISH OF A MAIN SQUARE IS BUILT ON THE HIGHEST POINT OF THE RIDGE PROVIDING THE OBVIOUS SITE FOR THE TOWNS $UOMO SEE BELOW )TS MOST DISTINCTIVE BUILDING HOWEVER IS THE 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE A THIRTEENTH CENTURY 'OTHIC PALACE TO WHICH -ICHELOZZO ADDED A TOWER AND RUSTICATION IN IMITATION OF THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO IN &LORENCE 4HE TOWER IS OCCASIONALLY OPEN OFFERING VIEWS THAT ON THE CLEAREST DAYS STRETCH TO 3IENA KM NORTHWEST 4WO OF THE PALAZZI ON THE SQUARE WERE DESIGNED BY 3ANGALLO 4HE 0ALAZZO .OBILI 4ARUGI BY THE LION AND GRIFFON FOUNTAIN IS A HIGHLY INNOVATIVE BUILDING WITH A PUBLIC LOGGIA CUT THROUGH ONE CORNER IT ORIGINALLY HAD AN EXTENSION ON THE TOP mOOR THOUGH THIS HAS BEEN BRICKED IN -ORE TANGIBLE PLEASURES AWAIT AT THE 0ALAZZO #ANTUCCI ONE OF MANY BUILDINGS SCATTERED ABOUT THE TOWN THAT SERVE AS CANTINE FOR THE WINE TRADE OFFERING DEGUSTAZIONE AND SALE OF THE 6INO .OBILE 4HE LOWER PART IS BY 3ANGALLO THE UPPER BY "ALDASSARE 0ERUZZI WHO WAS 3IENAS LEADING SIXTEENTH CENTURY ARCHITECT 4HE $UOMO
3ANGALLO AND HIS CONTEMPORARIES NEVER GOT AROUND TO BUILDING A FACADE FOR THE $UOMO DAILY AMnPM nPM WHOSE PLAIN BRICK PALES AGAINST THE NEIGHBOURING PALAZZI "EGUN IN BY )PPOLITO 3CALZI THE BUILDING WAS RAISED OVER AN EARLIER CHURCH OF WHICH THE UGLY FOURTEENTH CENTURY CAMPANILE IS VIRTUALLY THE ONLY REMINDER
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3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9 -ONTEPULCIANO
4HE INTERIOR BOASTS AN ELEGANT 2ENAISSANCE DESIGN AND HAS SEVERAL OUT STANDING WORKS OF ART DOTTED AROUND ITS RATHER FOREBODING WALLS 4HE lRST OF THESE ARE FRAGMENTS OF THE TOMB OF "ARTOLOMEO !RAGAZZI n BY THE MULTI TALENTED -ICHELOZZO A MONUMENT WHICH WAS CRIMINALLY DISMEM BERED IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY !RAGAZZI WAS BORN IN -ONTEPULCIANO AND ACHIEVED PROMINENCE AS THE SECRETARY TO 0OPE -ARTIN 6 PONTIFF FROM TO THE lRST POPE TO OCCUPY THE (OLY 3EE IN 2OME AFTER THE 'RAND 3CHISM n DIVIDED THE PAPACY BETWEEN 2OME AND !VIGNON (E IS OFTEN DESCRIBED AS THE lRST h2ENAISSANCEv POPE HIS ELECTION COINCIDING WITH THE COMPETITION TO DESIGN THE BAPTISTERY DOORS IN &LORENCE 0OPE -ARTIN WAS ASSISTED IN HIS ADOPTED ROLE BY !RAGAZZI WHO SCOURED &RENCH AND 'ERMAN MONASTERIES FOR MANUSCRIPTS AND OVERSAW THE PUBLICATION OF CLASSICAL TEXTS BY 6ITRUVIUS AND OTHERS "AS RELIEFS FROM THE TOMB CAN NOW BE SEEN AT THE BASE OF THE lRST TWO COLUMNS ON EITHER SIDE OF THE NAVE RIGHT AND LEFT AND THE EFlGY OF !RAGAZZI HIMSELF IS MOUNTED ON THE REAR WEST WALL TO THE RIGHT OF THE DOOR !T THE OTHER END OF THE CHURCH TWO OF THE TOMBS STATUES SURMOUNT THE HIGH ALTAR n WHICH IS ALSO GARLANDED BY PUTTI AND FESTOONS FROM THE TOMB TWO SCULPTED ANGELS FROM THE PIECE CAN BE FOUND EVEN FARTHER AWAY IN ,ONDONS "RITISH -USEUM !RAGAZZI ALSO COMMISSIONED A PAINTING THAT WOULD BE A HIGHLIGHT OF THIS OR ANY OTHER CHURCH 4ADDEO DI "ARTOLOS IRIDESCENT HIGH ALTARPIECE OF THE !SSUMPTION PERHAPS THE SUPREME RENDITION OF A SUBJECT THAT WAS A FAVOURITE AMONG 3IENAS LEADING ARTISTS 4HE DATE OF THE PAINTINGS COMMISSION IS NOTEWORTHY FOR IT CAME AT A TIME WHEN -ONTEPULCIANO n WHICH OSCILLATED CONSTANTLY BETWEEN &LORENTINE AND 3IENESE DOMINATION n FOUND ITSELF FREE OF &LORENTINE RULE FOR A BRIEF PERIOD n !RAGAZZIS CHOICE OF A 3IENESE ARTIST AND A SUBJECT DEAR TO THE 3IENESE IS THUS REVEALED AS AN ACT OF POLITICAL AS WELL AS ARTISTIC SIGNIl CANCE 4HE MAIN PANELS OF THE TRIPTYCH ITS PREDELLA AND ITS GILT TURRETED UPPER PANELS ARE CRAMMED WITH DETAIL AND INCIDENT .OTE IN PARTICULAR THE APOSTLES GATHERED AROUND THE 6IRGINS TOMB IN THE MAIN PAINTING $OUBTING 4HOMAS IS SHOWN RECEIVING THE -ADONNAS GIRDLE SEE P WHILE A GRIEF STRICKEN 3T *OHN VIEWS HER mOWER DECKED SEPULCHRE "EHIND THE LATTER TO THE RIGHT IS THE !POSTLE 4HADDEUS 4ADDEOS NAMESAKE THE FACE IS PROBABLY A SELF PORTRAIT AN EXTREMELY UNUSUAL FEATURE IN A PAINTING EXECUTED ON THE CUSP OF THE 2ENAISSANCE WHEN SUCH SELF ADVERTISEMENT WOULD LATER BECOME QUITE COMMON %LSEWHERE IN THE CHURCH HUNT OUT A WORK BY 6ECCHIETTA BEST KNOWN AS A PAINTER BUT HERE REPRESENTED BY AN EXCELLENT PIECE OF SCULPTURE THE MARBLE CIBORIUM IN THE CHAPEL TO THE RIGHT OF THE HIGH ALTAR /N THE LEFT NORTH WALL OF THE CHURCH OPPOSITE THE PILLAR OF THE THIRD NAVE IS A POETIC -ADONNA DEL 0ILASTRO -ADONNA OF THE 0ILLAR BY 3ANO DI 0IETRO !T THE BOTTOM OF THE NORTH AISLE CLOSE TO THE MAIN REMNANTS OF !RAGAZZIS TOMB THE lRST CHAPEL n THE "AP TISTERY n CONTAINS A WEALTH OF EYE CATCHING BIG NAME ART THE FONT AND ITS SIX BAS RELIEFS ARE BY 'IOVANNI D!GOSTINO THE RIOT OF GLAZED TERRACOTTA ON THE WALL THE SO CALLED !LTARE DEI 'IGLI !LTAR OF THE ,ILIES IS BY !NDREA DELLA 2OBBIA n IT FRAMES A RELIEF OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD ATTRIBUTED TO "ENEDETTO DA -AIANO AND THE NICHE STATUES OF 3T 0ETER AND *OHN THE "APTIST ARE ATTRIBUTED TO -INO DA #AMAINO 3AN "IAGIO
!NTONIO DA 3ANGALLOS GREATEST COMMISSION CAME IN WHEN HE WAS INVITED BY THE TOWNS 2ICCI NOBLES TO DESIGN THE PILGRIMAGE CHURCH OF 3AN "IAGIO DAILY AMnNOON nPM ON THE HILLSIDE BELOW THE TOWN 4HE MODEL FOR THIS WAS HIS BROTHER 'IULIANOS DESIGN FOR THE FACADE OF 3AN ,ORENZO IN &LORENCE
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
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5 3AN "IAGIO
WHICH WAS NEVER BUILT 4HE -ONTEPULCIANO PROJECT WAS MORE AMBITIOUS n THE ONLY BIGGER CHURCH PROJECT OF ITS TIME WAS 3T 0ETERS IN 2OME n AND OCCUPIED !NTONIO UNTIL HIS DEATH IN (E LIVED TO SEE ITS INAUGURATION HOWEVER IN THE CEREMONY PERFORMED BY THE -EDICI POPE #LEMENT 6)) 4O REACH THE CHURCH FOLLOW 6IA 3AN "IAGIO OUT FROM THE 0ORTA DI 'RASSI ITS ABOUT lFTEEN MINUTES WALK 4HE CHURCH BUILT OVER AN EARLIER CHAPEL TO 3AN "IAGIO OR 3T "LAISE SEE BOX IS ONE OF THE MOST HARMONIOUS 2ENAISSANCE CREATIONS IN )TALY CONSTRUCTED INSIDE AND OUT FROM A POROUS TRAVERTINE WHOSE SOFT HONEY COLOURED STONE BLENDS PERFECTLY WITH ITS NICHE IN THE LANDSCAPE ! DEEPLY INTELLECTUALIZED BUILDING ITS MAJOR ARCHITECTURAL NOVELTY WAS THE USE OF FREESTANDING TOWERS ONLY ONE WAS COMPLETED IN TO mANK THE FACADE NOTE THE TOWERS THREE ORDERS OF #LASSICAL COLUMNS n $ORIC )ONIC AND #ORINTHIAN 7ITHIN IT IS SPOILT A LITTLE BY EXTRANEOUS DECORATION n A "AROQUE TROMPE LOEIL COVERS THE BARREL VAULT n BUT IS EQUALLY HARMONIOUS )T ALSO HAS SUPERB ACOUSTICS .EARBY SCARCELY LESS PERFECT A BUILDING IS THE #ANONICA RECTORY ENDOWED BY 3ANGALLO WITH A GRACEFUL PORTICO AND DOUBLE TIERED LOGGIA
&OOD FESTIVALS AND TRANSPORT
4HE TOWN HAS A FAIR SPREAD OF RESTAURANTS ALL OF THEM OFFERING LOCAL WINES &OR SUPERB HOMEMADE PASTA TRY THE LONG ESTABLISHED AND MODERATELY PRICED 4RATTORIA $IVA CLOSED 4UES JUST INSIDE THE 0ORTA AL 0RATO ON 6IA 'RAC CIANO NEL #ORSO WITH MEALS FOR AROUND + &OR SOMETHING A BIT SMARTER
3AN "IAGIO 3T "LAISE 3AN "IAGIO 3T "LAISE IN %NGLISH WAS AN !RMENIAN DOCTOR WHO BECAME A BISHOP BEFORE BEING CALLED BY 'OD TO ABANDON HIS WORLDLY AFFAIRS IN FAVOUR OF A CONTEMPLA TIVE LIFE IN THE MOUNTAINS 4HERE HE LIVED IN A CAVE SURROUNDED BY WILD ANIMALS WHO BROUGHT HIM FOOD AND DRINK AND IN RETURN WERE HEALED BY HIM WHEN THEY BECAME SICK HES OFTEN DEPICTED 3T &RANCIS LIKE TALKING TO THE BIRDS (E WAS EVENTUALLY IMPRISONED ON A CHARGE OF PRACTISING MAGIC AND TORTURED BY HAVING HIS BODY SCRAPED WITH A SHARP PRONGED INSTRUMENT USED TO CARD WOOL 0AINTINGS OF HIM ALWAYS SHOW HIM HOLDING SUCH AN INSTRUMENT 4HUS HE BECAME THE PATRON SAINT OF CARDERS AND TEXTILE WORKERS WHICH IS WHY HE APPEARS SO FREQUENTLY IN &LORENTINE AND 4USCAN PAINT INGS THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY HAVING BEEN THE BEDROCK OF THE REGIONS MEDIEVAL PROSPERITY )N A MORE DOMESTIC VEIN HE IS ALSO INVOKED BY )TALIANS AGAINST SORE THROATS HAVING ONCE SAVED A CHILD WHOD HAD A lSH BONE STUCK IN HER THROAT
#ANTIERE )NTERNAZIONALE D!RTE *ULYn!UG WWWCANTIERETOSCANANU ! MAJOR INTERNATIONAL PERFORMING ARTS FESTIVAL ESPE CIALLY MUSIC FOUNDED BY COMPOSER (ANS 7ERNER (ENZE IN THE S 4HE FESTIVAL MAKES A POINT OF SUPPORTING YOUNG MUSICIANS WITH ARTISTS AND STAGEHANDS ALIKE SLUMMING IT IN THE LOCAL CO OPERA TIVE MESS ROOMS
"RUSCELLO !UG n 4HE &ESTIVAL OF !SSUMPTION IS CELEBRATED WITH A SEQUENCE OF MASKED PLAYS AND LIGHT OPERA IN THE TOWN SQUARES "RAVÓO DELLE "OTTI LAST 3UN IN !UG ! BARREL RACE THROUGH THE STREETS FROM 3ANT!GNESE TO THE 0IAZZA 'RANDE BETWEEN TEAMS FROM EACH OF THE TOWNS EIGHT CONTRADE #OSTUME PROCESSIONS PRECEDE THE RACE AND A STREET BANQUET FOLLOWS
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TRY THE MODERATELY PRICED 2ISTORANTE )L #ANTUCCIO CLOSED -ON 6IA DELLE #ANTINE OR )L "ORGO "UIO 6IA "ORGO "UIO WWWBORGOBUIOIT CLOSED FOR LUNCH ON 4UES 7ED 4HE #AFFÒ 0OLIZIANO 6IA DI 6OLTAIA NEL #ORSO n HAS A LOVELY !RT .OUVEAU INTERIOR AND A CHOICE OF BAR INFORMAL RESTAURANT FOR LUNCH AND EVENING MEALS OR MORE FORMAL RESTAURANT FOR DINNER ONLY 4HERES AN OPEN AIR MARKET WITH ESPECIALLY GOOD PORCHETTA HELD IN THE GAR DENS OUTSIDE THE 0ORTA AL 0RATO ON 4HURSDAY MORNINGS THIS IS ALSO THE SITE OF THE LOCAL YOUTH BAR WITH TABLE FOOTBALL AND A JUKEBOX THROUGH TO MIDNIGHT
4RANSPORT
4HE MAIN TRANSPORT LINKS ARE WITH #HIUSI ,&) BUSES WWW LlIT RUN MORE OR LESS EVERY HALF HOUR TO #HIANCIANO 4ERME #HIUSI AND #HIUSI STATION PLUS ONE 3IENA AND ONE TO THREE &LORENCE SERVICES DAILY 4O THE WEST 42! ). HAS SEVEN BUSES DAILY ON THE CIRCUIT THROUGH 0IENZA 3AN 1UÓRICO D¼RCIA 4ORRENIERI CHANGE FOR -ONTALCINO AND "UONCONVENTO WITH BETWEEN THREE AND lVE DAILY CONTINUING TO 3IENA !LL BUSES LEAVE FROM OUTSIDE 0ORTA AL 0RATO AND 0ORTA DI &ARINE BUY TICKETS FROM BARS OR SHOPS IN TOWN NOT ON THE BUS )F YOURE MAKING A TRAIN CONNECTION TAKE A BUS TO #HIUSI -ONTEPULCIANOS OWN STATION KM NORTHEAST IS A STOP ONLY FOR SLOW REGIONALI OR INTER REGIONALI SER VICES ,OCAL CAR RENTAL CAN BE ARRANGED THROUGH "ERNARDINI OR 0AOLO #ENCINI
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#()!.#)!./ 4%2-% WWWTERMECHIANCIANOIT MIDWAY BETWEEN -ONTEPULCIANO AND #HIUSI IS ONE OF 4USCANYS MAJOR SPAS AS EVIDENCED BY THE PRESENCE OF SOME TWO HUNDRED ODD HOTELS )TS PARTICULAR SPECIALITIES ARE LIVER AND BLADDER COMPLAINTS HANDY IF YOUVE OVERWORKED THE 6INO .OBILE THOUGH THE CLINIC LIKE SPA BUILDINGS ARENT THE USUAL IMAGE OF A 4USCAN HOLIDAY )F YOU lND YOURSELF STAYING HERE WITH -ONTEPULCIANO FULL YOU MIGHT WANT TO WANDER UP TO THE OLD HILL TOWN #HIANCIANO 6ECCHIO THOUGH THERES LITTLE SPECIlC TO SEE SAVE A 2OMANESQUE #OLLEGIATA AND MIDDLING SACRED ART MUSEUM 4HE LOCAL TOURIST HANDOUTS FASTIDIOUSLY TRACE A SERIES OF h-EDICALLY 2ECOM MENDED 7ALKSv IN ITS #HIANCIANOx 7HAT A HEALTHY LIVER PAMPHLET 0ERHAPS THE MOST COMPELLING IS TO THE HUGE OUTDOOR MUNICIPAL POOL 4HE ONLY SIGHT TO SPEAK OF IS THE -USEO #IVICO !RCHEOLOGICO DELLE !CQUE AT 6IALE $ANTE !PRILn/CT 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM .OVn-ARCH 3AT 3UN AMn PM + WHICH HAS GOOD MODERN DISPLAYS DEVOTED TO THE AREAS %TRUSCAN AND OTHER ARCHEOLOGICAL HERITAGE WITH SOME CONVINCING TOMB RECONSTRUCTIONS PLUS A SECTION AT THE END THAT DOCUMENTS THE HISTORY OF THE AREAS THERMAL SPRINGS
4HROUGH 3ARTEANO )F YOU HAVE TRANSPORT A MORE ENJOYABLE ROUTE TO #HIUSI IS THE MINOR ROAD THAT RUNS SOUTH JUST BEFORE -ONTEPULCIANOS OWN LITTLE SPA AT 3ANT!LBINO WWWTERMEMONTEPULCIANOIT -ARCHn-AY .OVnMID $EC -ON &RI nPM 3AT AMnPM *UNEn/CT -ONn3AT AMn nPM CLOSED MID $EC TO &EB PRICE DEPENDS ON TREATMENT REQUIRED 4HIS FOLLOWS A lNE SCARCELY POPULATED STRETCH OF THE 6AL D¼RCIA DOWN THROUGH THE ESTATES OF #ASTELLUCCIO AND ,A &OCE n THE LATTER THE HOME FOR MANY YEARS OF THE !MERICAN WRITER )RIS /RIGO AUTHOR OF THE CLASSIC -ERCHANT OF 0RATO )T WAS AT ,A &OCE THAT SHE HID PARTISANS AND !LLIED TROOPS DURING THE 'ERMAN OCCUPATION OF )TALY AFTER -USSOLINIS FALL IN EVENTS RECORDED IN HER AUTOBIOGRAPHY 7AR IN 6AL D¼RCIA 9OU TURN NORTH TO REACH #HIUSI AT 3!24%!./ A PLEASANT VILLAGE SET BELOW A CASTLE AND WITHIN PATCHES OF %TRUSCAN WALL IT HAS AN !NNUNCIATION BY $OMENICO "ECCAFUMI IN THE CHURCH OF 3AN -ARTINO AND AN EXCELLENT INEXPENSIVE RESTAURANT ,A 'IARA AT 6IALE %UROPA
#HIUSI #()53) KM SOUTHEAST OF -ONTEPULCIANO IS A USEFUL TRANSPORT HUB WITH TRAINS AND BUSES WEST TO 3IENA SOUTH TO /RVIETO AND 2OME AND NORTH TO -ONTEPULCIANO #ORTONA !REZZO AND THE 5MBRIAN LAKE RESORT OF #ASTIGLIONE DEL ,AGO !S A TARGET IN ITS OWN RIGHT IT IS ONLY REALLY WORTH A SPECIAL DETOUR FOR %TRUSCAN ENTHUSIASTS THE TOWN n KNOWN TO THE %TRUSCANS AS #AMARS n HAS A REASONABLE ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM AND AROUND HALF A DOZEN ANCIENT TOMBS ON ITS PERIPHERY OUT TOWARDS ,AGO DI #HIUSI 4HE MUSEUM AND THE $UOMO #HIUSIS OTHER WORTHWHILE SITE ARE CLOSE BY EACH OTHER ON 6IA 0ORSENNA A SHORT WALK UP FROM THE BUS STOP ON THE 6IALE 'ARIBALDI #HIUSIS -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO .AZIONALE E 4OMBE %TRUSCHE DAILY AMnPM + OUGHT TO BE PRETTY GOOD FOR THE REGION IS LITTERED WITH TOMBS -ANY OF THE BEST EXHIBITS HOWEVER HAVE BEEN SPIRITED AWAY TO &LORENCE AND 2OME AND WHAT REMAINS IS A MODEST COLLECTION NUMEROUS SARCOPHAGI A FEW TERRACOTTAS WITH TRACES OF ANCIENT PAINT CABINETS OF POTS ONE WITH EROTIC
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DANCING SCENES AND THE ODD TREASURE n NOTABLY THE 'UALANDI 5RN -ANY OF THE TOMBS IN THE REGION ARE IN POOR OR DANGEROUS CONDITION AND ONLY THREE ARE CURRENTLY OPEN TO THE PUBLIC 4WO CAN BE SEEN ON REQUEST FROM THE MUSEUM ITSELF IN MUSEUM HOURS AND WITH THE MUSEUM TICKET THE 4OMBA DELLA 0EL LEGRINA AND 4OMBA DEL ,EONE KM NORTH A THIRD TOMB THE FAMOUS FRES COED 4OMBA DELLA 3CIMMIA IS VISITABLE ON PRE BOOKED GUIDED TOURS FROM THE MUSEUM 4UES 4HURS 3AT AM PM IN SUMMER AM PM IN WINTER + !T THE 2OMANESQUE $UOMO THERE IS FURTHER EVIDENCE OF #HIUSIS ANCIENT PAST 4HE BUILDING ITSELF CONSISTS ALMOST ENTIRELY OF %TRUSCAN AND 2OMAN BLOCKS THE INTERIOR IS A MASS OF WHAT APPEARS AT lRST SIGHT TO BE MOSAIC WORK BUT IS IN REALITY MOCK "YZANTINE PAINTWORK CREATED IN 4HE -USEO DELLA #ATTEDRALE ALONGSIDE *UNE TO MID /CT DAILY AMnPM nPM REST OF YEAR -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM nPM + GIVES ACCESS TO THE ,ABYRINTH OF 0ORSENNA + OR + COMBINED TICKET WITH -USEO DELLA #ATTTEDRALE WHICH LEADS YOU THROUGH THE ATMOSPHERIC TUNNELS OF THE %TRUSCAN WATER CATCHMENT SYSTEM BELOW THE PIAZZA TO A HUGE 2OMAN CISTERN AND THEN UP INSIDE THE TWELFTH CENTURY CAMPANILE !T THE MUSEUM YOU CAN ALSO ARRANGE TO MEET A GUIDE AT THE ENTRANCE TO THE #ATACOMBE DI 3ANTA -USTIOLA KM EAST OF TOWN TOURS DAILY PM !PRILn3EPT ALSO AM + WHICH WERE USED BY EARLY #HRISTIANS IN THE FOURTH AND lFTH CENTURIES 4ICKETS AND BOOKINGS MUST BE MADE AT THE TOURIST OFlCE IN THE CATHEDRAL SQUARE BEFORE NOON OF THE DAY OF VISIT SEE h0RACTICALITIESv BELOW
3TILL MORE OF THE ANCIENT UNDERGROUND CITY CAN BE SEEN IN THE -USEO #IVICO -AYn/CT 4UESn3UN TOURS AT AM AM PM PM PM PM .OVn!PRIL TOURS ON 4HURS &RI AT AM AM PM AND THE SAME HOURS ON 3AT 3UN PLUS PM PM PM + OPENED IN *ULY AND ENTERED ON A TINY ALLEY AT 6IA 3ECONDA #IMINA OFF THE NORTH SIDE OF 0IAZZA 88 3ETTEMBRE !TMOSPHERIC GUIDED TOURS LEAD THROUGH M OF %TRUSCAN TUNNEL AND AQUEDUCT TO A LAKE NOW SOME M BELOW STREET LEVEL !LSO IN THE TUNNELS IS THE 3EZIONE %PIGRAlCA THE ONLY MUSEUM DISPLAY IN )TALY DEVOTED ENTIRELY TO FUNERARY INSCRIPTIONS OVER lVE HUNDRED MAINLY %TRUSCAN EXAMPLES ARE ON SHOW ,AGO DI #HIUSI
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
#HIUSIS LAKE LIES KM NORTH OF THE TOWN REACHED ALONG THE ROAD PAST THE %TRUS CAN TOMBS 4HE ROUTE IS SERVED ONLY SPORADICALLY BY BUS DAILY -ONn&RI BUT FOR ANYONE DRIVING OR PLANNING TO CAMP FOR A FEW DAYS IT MAKES A lNE DETOUR 4HE BUSES RUN TO THE RESTAURANT BAR CAMPSITE 0ESCE D/RO SET AMID TREES BY A SMALL QUAY FOR ROWING BOATS THE SWIMMING IS WARM IN SUM MER &OR FOOD ALONE YOURE BEST OFF AT THE LAKES OTHER SIGNPOSTED RESTAURANT $A 'INO CLOSED 7ED THEY SERVE GOOD lSH MEALS AT MODERATE PRICES 0RACTICALITIES
\ -ONTE !MIATA
7ITH TIME TO KILL IN #HIUSI THE BEST THING TO DO IS EAT )L "UCCHERO CLOSED 7ED AT 6IA DEI "ONCI IS AN INEXPENSIVE RESTAURANT PIZZERIA WHILE THE 2ISTORANTE :AIRA CLOSED -ON JUST UP THE ROAD AT 6IA !RUNTE SERVES h%TRUSCAN DISHESv n BOAR PIGEON AND THE LIKE AT MODERATE PRICES #HIUSI HAS A HELPFUL TOURIST OFlCE AT 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO -ONn3AT AMn PM nPM 3UN AMnPM WWW COMMUNECHIUSISIIT 4HERES JUST ONE HOTEL !LBERGO ,A 3lNGE 6IA -ARCONI WWWALBERGOLASlNGEIT ,ESS EXPENSIVE HOTELS ARE CLUS TERED DOWN AT #HIUSI 3CALO AN UNATTRACTIVE MODERN SUBURB THAT MAKES ITS LIVING CARE OF A LARGE SLAUGHTERHOUSE AND MEAT STORAGE PLANT !N EXTREMELY GOOD OUT OF TOWN OPTION IS THE FOUR STAR 6ILLA IL 0ATRIARCA AT 1UERCE AL 0INO WWWILPATRIARCAIT KM FROM #HIUSI 3ET IN lNE GROUNDS WITH A POOL IT IS HOUSED IN A BEAUTIFULLY RESTORED COUNTRY VILLA AND HAS A SUPERB IF EXPENSIVE RESTAURANT ) 3ALOTTI CLOSED -ON THAT IS RENOWNED IN ITS OWN RIGHT 4RY TO PEEK INTO THE KITCHENS WHICH ARE SET IN ORIGINAL %TRUSCAN GRANARIES )F YOU NEED A TAXI IN TOWN CALL
-ONTE !MIATA
!T M -ONTE !MIATA IS THE HIGHEST POINT IN SOUTHERN 4USCANY A BROAD BASED MOUNTAIN WHOSE HAZY OUTLINE FORMS THE BACKDROP TO MANY A TOWN AND LANDSCAPE IN THE REGION ! CIRCLE OF TOWNS RINGS ITS LOWER SLOPES n SOME HISTORICAL SPOTS OTHERS MORE MODERN MOST HAVING BEEN PLUMPED UP OVER THE LAST FEW YEARS IN AN ATTEMPT TO ATTRACT TOURISM TO A TRADITIONALLY IMPOVERISHED AREA .ONE WITH ONE EXCEPTION ARE WORTH A TRIP FOR THEIR OWN SAKE BUT THE EFFECT OF ALL THE VILLAGES TOGETHER PLUS PRETTY STREETS OLD CASTLES AND PLENTY OF BUCOLIC COUNTRYSIDE MAKES THIS A GOOD AREA TO TOUR BY CAR OR BIKE FOR A DAY OR SO )TS ALSO DELIGHTFUL WALKING COUNTRY REFRESHINGLY COOL IN SUMMER n AND THERES SKIING IN WINTER
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!BBADIA 3AN 3ALVATORE
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4HE MAIN CENTRE AND TRANSPORT HUB IS !BBADIA 3AN 3ALVATORE WORTH A VISIT FOR ITS GREAT ABBEY WHETHER YOU INTEND TO VENTURE ONTO THE MOUNTAIN OR NOT 4HE TOWN IS ACCESSIBLE BY BUS FROM 3IENA n DAILY "UONCONVENTO DAILY #HIUSI DAILY !RCIDOSSO AND 3ANTA &IORA DAILY AND 'ROSSETO DAILY !VOID THE h-ONTE !MIATAv TRAIN STATION ON THE 3IENA !SCIANO 'ROSSETO LINE ITS A GOOD KM NORTH OF !BBADIA 3AN 3ALVATORE
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9 -ONTE !MIATA
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4HERES BEEN A SETTLEMENT ON THE SITE OF !""!$)! 3!. 3!,6!4/2% -ONTE !MIATAS MAIN TOWN SINCE PREHISTORIC TIMES THOUGH ITS REAL SIGNIlCANCE DATES FROM THE EIGHTH CENTURY WHEN ITS GREAT ABBEY BECAME THE CONTROLLING CENTRE OF THE 6IA &RANCIGENA )TS IMPORTANCE ONLY WANED WITH THE RISE OF THE !LDOBRANDESCHI IN THE ELEVENTH CENTURY 4HEREAFTER IT WAS CONTESTED BY /RVIETO AND 3IENA BUT IN n ALONG WITH MOST OF SOUTHERN 4USCANY n FELL WITHIN THE ORBIT OF THE -EDICIS 'RAND $UCHY OF 4USCANY 4ODAY THE TOWN IS AN INITIALLY DISORIENTATING MODERN SPRAWL THAT HIDES A PER FECT AND LARGELY SELF CONTAINED MEDIEVAL QUARTER "USES WILL DROP YOU ON THE 6IALE 2OMA IMMEDIATELY OUTSIDE THE OLD WALLS IF YOU ARRIVE BY CAR YOULL HAVE TO NEGOTIATE A MAZE OF TREE LINED STREETS 4HE ABBEY ITSELF IS ACTUALLY IN THE MOD ERN PART OF THE TOWN AND BEST REACHED WITH 6IALE 2OMA AS THE STARTING POINT &ROM THE NORTH END OF THE STREET WALK DOWN 6IA #AVOUR PASSING 6IA -ENTANA ON THE LEFT AND TAKE THE NEXT RIGHT 6IA DEL -ONASTERO 4HE ABBEY
#HURCH TRADITION DATES THE !BBADIA 3AN 3ALVATORE TO MAKING IT ONE OF THE OLDEST ABBEYS IN 4USCANY AND ASCRIBES ITS FOUNDATION TO +ING 2ACHIS A ,OM BARD KING WHO IS SUPPOSED TO HAVE CONVERTED TO #HRISTIANITY WHILE CONTEM PLATING A #RUCIlX NOW AFlXED TO THE ABBEYS SOUTH WALL (E WAS SUBSEQUENTLY VISITED BY AN APPARITION OF #HRIST AS HE WENT TO DO BATTLE WITH THE 0ERUGIANS A
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
\ -ONTE !MIATA
REVELATION WHICH PROMPTED HIM TO TAKE UP A MONASTIC LIFE AND FOUND THE ABBEY AT THE SITE OF THE VISION 4HE ACTUAL STORY OF THE ABBEYS BIRTH IS SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT &OR A START THE #RUCIlX ELEMENT IS ANACHRONISTIC AS THE WORK DATES FROM THE TWELFTH CENTURY SOME FOUR HUNDRED YEARS AFTER 2ACHISS DEATH 2ACHIS HIMSELF HOWEVER WAS INVOLVED IN THE FOUNDATION THOUGH IT APPEARS HIS WITHDRAWAL INTO MONASTIC ISOLATION WAS FORCED ON HIM PRINCIPALLY BY LEADING ,OMBARD NOBLES WHO OPPOSED HIS EVER INCREASING LEANINGS TOWARDS 2OME &ORCED TO ABDICATE THE KING SYMBOLICALLY AWARDED HIS CROWN TO THE POPE AND WAS SUCCEEDED BY HIS BROTHER !STOLFO 4HE PRESENT 2OMANESQUE CHURCH BUILT IN !MIATAS DISTINCTIVE BROWN TRACHITE WAS CONSECRATED IN A REBUILDING PROGRAMME HAVING BEEN INSTIGATED A YEAR BEFORE WHEN THE ABBEY WAS AT THE HEIGHT OF ITS WEALTH AND POWER 4HE PRESENT CRYPT SEE BELOW DATES FROM THIS PERIOD THOUGH OTHER PARTS OF THE BUILDING WERE ALTERED DURING THE BRIEF TENURE OF THE #AMALDOLESE AND LATER THE #ISTER CIANS WHO TOOK OVER THE ABBEY FROM THE "ENEDICTINES IN !MONG THE #ISTERCIAN ADDITIONS WAS THE TRIFORM WINDOW IN THE FACADE THOUGH CRITICS ARE UNABLE TO AGREE ON THE AGE OF THE TWO DISTINCTIVE TOWERS ONE CLEARLY UNlNISHED FEATURES FOUND IN VERY FEW OTHER CHURCHES IN )TALY 4HE NARROW FRONTAGE SQUEEZED BETWEEN THE TOWERS PREPARES YOU FOR A THIN AND IMMENSELY LONG INTERIOR WHOSE ,ATIN CROSS PLAN IS GENERALLY CONSIDERED THE lRST OF ANY 2OMANESQUE CHURCH IN 4USCANY 4HE SINGLE NAVED BASILICA CULMI NATES IN A RAISED CHANCEL FRAMED BY A SERIES OF BROAD AND BEAUTIFULLY DECORATED ARCHES ,ITTLE SURVIVES IN THE WAY OF ART MUCH HAVING BEEN REMOVED TO &LORENCE WHEN THE ABBEY WAS OWNED BY THE -EDICI n A PERIOD WHEN IT REMAINED MONKLESS FOR YEARS 4HE BEST OF WHAT REMAINS IS THE WOODEN #RUCIlX INVOLVED IN THE 2ACHIS LEGEND AT THE BEGINNING OF THE RIGHT HAND WALL THOUGH ITS A DISQUIET INGLY MODERN LOOKING PIECE AND EASILY PASSED BY -ANY OF THE PAINTINGS ARE BY THE .ASINI CLAN A THREE GENERATION DYNASTY OF PAINTERS BORN IN NEARBY #ASTEL DEL 0IANO SEE P 4HE SOUTH TRANSEPT FEATURES FRESCOES ON THE ,EGEND OF +ING 2ACHIS BY 'IUSEPPE .ASINI n THE NORTH TRANSEPT PANELS ON THE ,IFE OF THE 6IRGIN NONE IS TERRIBLY ACCOMPLISHED BUT THEY HAVE A FAINTLY RIDICULOUS CHARM ALL THE SAME 4HE CRYPT BY CONTRAST IS OUTSTANDING ONE OF THE MOST MONUMENTAL IN 4USCA NY IT IS AN ASTOUNDING SPACE OF BARE CRUDE STONE SUPPORTED BY STRANGE mUTED COLUMNS !TOP EACH PILLAR IS A SUPERBLY CARVED LINTEL WHOSE MOTIFS AND lGURES SHOW A ,OMBARD AND IN SOME CASES "YZANTINE HAND THE LATTER n DISTINGUISHED BY A MORE RECTANGULAR APPROACH n TYPICAL OF NORTHERN )TALIAN WORK OF THE PERIOD .OTE TOO HOW EACH PILLAR IS WORKED IN A WIDE VARIETY OF STYLES )F YOURE LUCKY ENOUGH TO GET INTO THE MONASTERY ALONGSIDE THE ABBEY ITS RARELY OPEN TRY TO SEE THE TREASURY WHICH HAS A MINUTE EIGHTH CENTURY )RISH RELIQUARY A lNE RELIQUARY BUST OF 0OPE 3T -ARK AND AN EXTREMELY RARE AND BEAUTIFUL RED SILK 0ERSIAN COPE DATING FROM THE EIGHTH CENTURY 0ARCO -USEO -INERARIO
4HE 0ARCO -USEO -INERARIO DAILY MID *UNE TO /CT nPM nPM REST OF THE YEAR SAME HOURS 3AT 3UN + AT 0IAZZALE 2ENATO 2OSSARO IS LOCATED IN PART OF WHAT WAS ONCE ONE OF THE WORLDS MOST IMPORTANT MERCURY MINES THE METAL HAVING BEEN EXTRACTED LOCALLY SINCE THE END OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY 4HE ONLY OTHER MINES OF COMPARABLE SIGNIlCANCE WERE IN 3PAIN AND 3LOVENIA BUT THEY LIKE THE MINES HERE AND ELSEWHERE AROUND -ONTE !MIATA HAVE BEEN HIT BY A WORLDWIDE DECLINE IN THE USE OF MERCURY 4HE MUSEUM BUILDING IS A lNE PIECE OF INDUSTRIAL ARCHITECTURE IN ITSELF A REDOUBT
ABLE NINETEENTH CENTURY STONE AFFAIR WITH A QUAINT TOWER AND THREE ROWS OF ARCHED WINDOWS n THE EFFECT IS MORE &LORENTINE PALAZZO THAN FACTORY )NSIDE THE MUSEUM OFFERS NUMEROUS EXAMPLES OF INDUSTRIAL ARCHEOLOGY WITH OLD MACHINES AND THE lTTINGS lXTURES AND TOOLS USED IN THE MINES $ISPLAYS DEAL WITH THE HISTORY OF MERCURY MINING AND THERE ARE ALSO LOTS OF ARCHIVE PHOTOGRAPHS AND OTHER DOCUMENTARY MATERIAL 0RACTICALITIES
4HE -ONTE !MIATA SUMMIT AND SLOPES
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4HE SUMMIT OF -ONTE !MIATA IS ACCESSIBLE BY ROAD AND IN SUMMER IS PACKED OUT WITH VEHICLE DELIVERED PARTIES MANY ILL SHOD FOR THE LAST FEW STEPS TO THE HIGHEST POINT )N *ULY AND !UGUST IT HAS A THRICE DAILY BUS FROM !BBADIA 3AN 3ALVATORE AT OTHER TIMES HITCHING SHOULD BE POSSIBLE ! NUMBER OF THE TATTY BARS AT THE SUMMIT RENT OUT MOUNTAIN BIKES TO EXPLORE THE LOWER SLOPES !T THE CAR PARK IS WHAT AMOUNTS TO AN ALPINE HAMLET WITH BARS A HANDFUL OF HOTELS AND A SHORT SKI RUN n ALL IN THE SHADOW OF A PECULIAR %IFFEL 4OWER STRUCTURE ADAPTED IN THE FORM OF A CROSS ERECTED IN BY 0OPE 0IUS 8)) !LONGSIDE ARE A CROP OF RADIO MASTS AND HUTS SELLING SOME OF THE TRASHIEST TRINKETS CONCEIVABLE .ONE OF THIS DETRACTS FROM THE VIEWS WHICH STRETCH SOUTHEAST TO "OLSENA AND WEST TO THE SEA WITH THE NEARER TOWNS NEATLY DELINEATED IN A CIRCLE BELOW 4HE BEST VIEWPOINT IS FROM THE SO CALLED -ADONNA DELLE 3COUT A STATUE LITTERED WITH THE PENDANTS OF INNUMERABLE SCOUT TROOPS
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9 -ONTE !MIATA
!BBADIAS TOURIST OFlCE IS NEAR THE CINEMA 6IA !DUA -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM WWWAMIATATURISMOIT !S TOUR ISM HEADQUARTERS FOR THE !MIATA REGION THE OFlCE IS WELL WORTH A VISIT AND PROVIDES INFORMATION ON WALKING PLUS DETAILS OF SOME INNOVATIVE INEXPENSIVE TOURS THAT THEY OFFER DURING THE SUMMER 4HERE ARE NUMEROUS HOTELS IN THE MODERN TOWN 4HE CHEAPEST IS #ESARETTI 6IA 4RENTO 3AN -ARCO 6IA -ATTEOTTI IS CENTRALLY LOCATED OR THERES THE SLIGHTLY MORE UPMARKET )TALIA 6IALE 2OMA 4HE 3AN -ARCO HAS A MODERATELY PRICED RESTAURANT AND THERE ARE ANY NUMBER OF CHEAP IF RATHER CHARACTERLESS PIZZERIE 4HE BUS TERMINAL IS IN FRONT OF THE "AR #ENTRALE IN 6IALE 2OMA THERES A TIMETABLE lXED TO THE !GENZIA 6!)) 6IALE 2OMA WHICH IS ALSO THE PLACE TO BUY TICKETS
!MIATA WALKING THE !NELLO DELLA -ONTAGNA
!WAY FROM THE SUMMIT THE WOODS AND PATHWAYS OF !MIATAS LOWER SLOPES MAKE UP ONE OF THE REGIONS MOST BEAUTIFUL NATURAL ENCLAVES HUGE FORESTS OF BEECH AND CHESTNUT BLANKETING THE AREA AND PROVIDING REFUGE FOR DEER AND WILD BOAR 4HE MOUNTAINS EXTRAVAGANT GREENERY SO AT ODDS WITH MUCH OF THE SURROUNDING COUNTRYSIDE DERIVES FROM ITS VOLCANIC ORIGINS ERUPTIONS HAVING FORMED RIDGES OF TRACHITE WHICH IS FERTILE WHEN BROKEN DOWN AND ALSO POROUS ALLOWING SURFACE WATER TO lLTER AWAY 7HEN THE WATER HITS THE IMPERVIOUS VOLCANIC ROCK BELOW IT mOWS OUT IN A SERIES OF SPRINGS A STRIKING FEATURE OF !MIATA WHOSE SLOPES FREQUENTLY ECHO TO THE SOUND OF RUNNING WATER 4HE COMBINATION OF !MIATAS LUSH VEGETATION AND CRISP MOUNTAIN AIR MAKES IT SUPERB WALKING TERRITORY $ETAILED -ULTIGRAPHIC AND OTHER MAPS HAVE MADE HIKING IN THE REGION A FAR MORE STRAIGHTFORWARD UNDERTAKING AND CONSIDERABLE EFFORT HAS GONE INTO MARKING THE !NELLO DELLA -ONTAGNA A PATH WHICH CIRCLES
THE MOUNTAIN BETWEEN ABOUT M AND M 7ITH A CAR YOU CAN JOIN THE PATH FROM VIRTUALLY ANY OF THE ROADS THAT CLIMB FROM THE SURROUNDING TOWNS LARGE BOARDS MARK THE DEPARTURE POINTS FROM THE ROAD AND DETAIL THE ROUTE TO EITHER SIDE )TS ALSO POSSIBLE HOWEVER TO WALK UP FROM THE TOWNS ON PATHS THAT RADIATE FROM THE MAIN CIRCUIT THE BEST DEPARTURE POINT FOR THIS APPROACH IS !BBADIA 3AN 3ALVATORE 4HE !NELLOS TOTAL CIRCUIT IS KM IN THEORY WALKABLE IN A DAY THOUGH THE LOCAL COUNCIL HAS BROKEN IT INTO TEN BASIC SECTIONS )TS FAIRLY PRACTICAL TO WALK HALF THE ROUTE AND THEN TAKE A BUS BACK FROM 3ANTA &IORA OR !RCIDOSSO EACH HAVE TEN CONNECTIONS DAILY WITH !BBADIA 3AN 3ALVATORE 4HE TRAIL MARKINGS ARE CLEARLY INDICATED ON CONCRETE POSTS IN RED YELLOW AND GREEN THOUGH THEY COINCIDE WITH THE OLDER #!) MARKINGS OF RED AND WHITE STRIPES EITHER WAY ITS FAIRLY HARD TO GO WRONG )TS ALSO POSSIBLE TO WALK AT WILL FROM THE ROAD THOUGH IF YOU VENTURE TOO FAR THE CHANCES ARE YOULL WIND UP LOST 3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
3TAYING ON THE MOUNTAIN
\ -ONTE !MIATA
)F YOU WANT TO STAY ON THE MOUNTAIN THE BEST BASE IS 0RATO -ACINÉIE M A TREE ENCLOSED PATCH OF MEADOW AND THE SITE OF ONE OF !MIATAS SKI LIFTS THERE ARE FOURTEEN IN ALL ALONG WITH TWELVE PISTES )TS NOT FAR FROM THE SUMMIT BUT FAR ENOUGH TO BE UNSPOILT AND AWAY FROM THE COMMERCIAL ISM 4HE HOTEL ,E -ACINAIE WWWLEMACINAIEIT lLLS UP SO BOOK AHEAD )N A SIMILARLY PRETTY SETTING THE 0RATO DELLA #ONTESSA M KM SOUTH ON THE SUMMIT ROAD HAS THE THREE STAR (OTEL #ONTESSA WHILE NEARBY THERES ,O 3COIATTOLO !LL OF THESE HOTELS HAVE INEXPENSIVE TO MODERATELY PRICED RESTAURANTS 4HE NEAREST CAMPSITE IS AT #ASTEL DEL 0IANO SEE P
6ILLAGES AROUND -ONTE !MIATA )F YOU HAVE TRANSPORT THE RING OF TOWNS AROUND -ONTE !MIATA IS WORTH A LITTLE EXPLORATION .ONE HAS OUTSTANDING FEATURES BUT ALL CLAIM A RURAL SETTING AND MORE OR LESS MEDIEVAL CENTRES n USUALLY BUILT AROUND AN !LDOBRANDESCHI CASTLE -OST ALSO HAVE A GOOD SPRINKLING OF HOTELS 0IANCASTAGNAIO
&IVE KILOMETRES SOUTH OF !BBADIA 3AN 3ALVATORE 0)!.#!34!'.!)/ AT M SPREADS ACROSS THE SLOPES OF A MOUNTAIN PLATEAU CAPPED BY ONE OF THE AREAS MOST IMPRESSIVE FORTRESSES A FOURTEENTH CENTURY !LDOBRANDESCHI NUMBER )T HAS A MAZE OF PRETTY STREETS PLUS A lNE 2OMANESQUE CHURCH n THE TWELFTH CENTURY 3ANTA -ARIA !SSUNTA /N THE ROAD OUTSIDE THE VILLAGE LEFT OF THE MAIN GATE THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA DELLE 'RAZIE HAS A RECENTLY UNCOVERED lF TEENTH CENTURY FRESCO CYCLE BY .ANNI DI 0IETRO !NOTHER RECENTLY DISCOVERED CYCLE RESIDES IN 3AN "ARTOLOMEO A HUMBLE &RANCISCAN CHURCH ON THE !BBADIA ROAD RESTRUCTURED IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY 4HE PICTURES WHICH DEPICT THE ,IFE OF THE 6IRGIN ARE IN THE CHAPTERHOUSE OFF THE CLOISTER 4HERE IS A SMALL INTERMITTENTLY OPEN 0RO ,OCO OFlCE FOR INFORMATION AT 6IALE 'ARIBALDI WHICH ALSO HAS BIKES FOR RENT IN SUMMER 4HE VILLAGES HOTELS ARE ALL GROUPED ALONG 6IALE 'RAMSCI AND 6IA 'ROSSETANA n THE $EL "OSCO 6IA 'ROSSETANA HAS PLEASANT DOUBLES ! RURAL AND SLIGHTLY CHEAPER ALTERNATIVE IS THE 0ICCOLO -ONDO KM EAST ON THE MINOR ROAD TO 1UARANTA
$AVIDE ,AZZERETTI OF -ONTE ,ABBRO
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3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9 -ONTE !MIATA
!RCIDOSSO BORN $AVIDE ,AZZERETTI n IS THE MOST EXTRAORDINARY lGURE THAT -ONTE !MIATA n A REGION RENOWNED FOR ITS MYSTICS AND SEERS n HAS THROWN UP EITHER A VISIONARY PROPHET OR A CRAZED COMMUNIST BORN BEFORE HIS TIME ACCORDING TO GREATLY DIVERGENT )TALIAN POINTS OF VIEW !S YOUNG AS FOURTEEN THE BOY HAD BEEN MARKED OUT FOR GREAT AND STRANGE THINGS BY A &RANCISCAN MONK A VISION TWENTY YEARS LATER PROMPTED ,AZZERETTI TO TRAVEL TO 2OME TO TRY AND INTEREST THE POPE IN HIS REVELATION 3CORNED HE RETIRED TO A CONTEMPLATIVE LIFE ON -ONTE 3UBIACO IN A DELIBERATE IMITA TION OF 3T "ENEDICT WHO HAD RETIRED TO THE SAME MOUNTAIN SLOPES SOUTHEAST OF 2OME YEARS EARLIER 2ETURNING TO !MIATA BETWEEN AND ,AZZERETTI ACHIEVED NOTORIETY AS THE FOUNDER OF AN ILL DElNED SOCIO RELIGIOUS SECT THE *URISDAVIDIC #HURCH WHICH AS WELL AS PREACHING #HRISTIANITY UNDER THE BANNER h,ONG LIVE THE 2EPUBLIC 'OD AND ,IBERTYv AGITATED FOR JUSTICE AND SOCIAL REFORM AMONGST THE PEASANT COMMUNITY WHICH MADE UP HIS FOLLOWING )N HE WAS ARRESTED THE AUTHORITIES UNHAPPY WITH HIS PERSUASIVE REPUBLICAN PREACHING NOT TO MENTION HIS NEW TITLE THE h-ESSIAH OF -ONTE !MIATAv )N HE WAS EXCOMMUNICATED BUT CONTINUED TO PREACH BOTH IN )TALY AND ABROAD CALLING FOR A SOCIETY BASED ON CO OPERATIVE PRINCIPLES AND REPUBLICAN GOVERNMENT )N TIME HIS lVE THOUSAND FOLLOWERS ORGANIZED THEMSELVES INTO )TALYS lRST CO OPERA TIVE SHARING LAND AND ANIMALS AND BUILDING A HUGE TEMPLE TO THE MOVEMENT ON TOP OF -ONTE ,ABBRO SOUTH OF !RCIDOSSO )N THE #HURCH REFUSED TO ALLOW HIM TO CONTINUE USING THE TEMPLE AND IN ,AZZERETTI MET A VIOLENT END n SHOT WITH THE CONNIVANCE OF LOCAL LANDOWNERS BY THE CARABINIERI AS HE LED AN UNAUTHORIZED RELIGIOUS PROCESSION THROUGH !RCIDOSSO 2EPRESSION SOON DISPERSED THE MOVEMENT WHICH WAS IN ANY CASE BEING UNDERMINED BY A DRIFT AWAY FROM THE LAND TO !MIATAS MERCURY MINES .ONETHELESS ,AZZERETTI IS REMEMBERED TODAY AS A PRE EMPTOR OF SOCIALIST AND LAND REFORM MOVEMENTS STILL TWENTY YEARS AWAY AT THE TIME OF HIS DEATH (E IS COMMEMORATED ON THE NIGHT OF !UGUST THE ANNIVERSARY OF HIS DEATH WITH A HUGE BONlRE AT THE LARGELY RUINED TEMPLE ON -ONTE ,ABBRO 7HETHER OR NOT YOU WANT TO PAY YOUR RESPECTS THE TRIP TO THE SUMMIT MAKES A lNE WALK OR DRIVE A ROUGH ROAD TAKES YOU VIRTUALLY TO THE TOP
3ANTA &IORA
3!.4! &)/2!S CRAGGY POSITION DREW AN ADMIRING OBSERVATION FROM $ANTE AS TO ITS IMPREGNABILITY ITS CASTLE n OF WHICH ONLY A TOWER REMAINS n PROVIDED THE FEUDAL SEAT OF ONE OF THE MAJOR BRANCHES OF THE !LDOBRANDESCHI 4HIS CLAN WHICH RULED MUCH OF SOUTHERN 4USCANY AND THE -AREMMA FROM THE NINTH CENTURY HAD ITS ROOTS IN A ,OMBARD DYNASTY FROM ,UCCA n THE FAMILY NAME IS AN )TALIAN CORRUPTION OF h(ILDEBRANDv TESTAMENT TO THE FAMILYS NORTHERN 'ERMAN ORIGINS )N THE CLAN DIVIDED INTO TWO MAIN BRANCHES ONE OF WHICH WAS INSTALLED IN 3ANTA &IORA RULING -ONTE !MIATA AND THE NORTHERN -AREMMA THE OTHER IN NEARBY 3OVANA FROM WHERE THEY CONTROLLED THE COAST AND THE SOUTHERN -AREMMA SEE P 3ANTA &IORA THEN PASSED THROUGH THE FAMILYS FEMALE LINE AND WAS EVENTUALLY CEDED BY MARRIAGE TO THE 3FORZA #ESARINI FAMILY WHOSE PALAZZO BUILT FROM THE OLD FORTRESS LIES ALONGSIDE THE !LDOBRANDESCHI TOWER NOW A CLOCK TOWER OVERLOOKING A PICTURESQUE LITTLE SQUARE 4HE VILLAGE HAS A COUPLE OF lNE CHURCHES 4HE 0IEVE DI 3ANTA &IORA E ,UCILLA REACHED ON 6IA #AROLINA FROM THE SQUARE HAS ITS WALLS ALTAR AND PULPIT ADORNED WITH A WIDE VARIETY OF TOPNOTCH TERRACOTTAS n BY !NDREA DELLA 2OBBIA AND HIS WORKSHOP 4HE BEAUTIFUL CHURCH INCIDENTALLY WAS NAMED AFTER TWO LOCAL SAINTS WHOSE RELICS BROUGHT HERE IN THE ELEVENTH CENTURY RESIDE IN THE NEARBY PRIESTS HOUSE ! STEEP PARTLY STEPPED LANE LEADS TO 3ANT!GOSTINO
WHICH POSSESSES A lNE PAINTED WOODEN IMAGE OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD ATTRIB UTED DUBIOUSLY TO *ACOPO DELLA 1UERCIA THOUGH ITS BEEN CLAIMED FOR THE TIME BEING BY THE MUSEUM IN 0ITIGLIANOS 0ALAZZO /RSINI SEE P $OWN THE ROAD YOU COME TO GARDENS AND THE ORATORY OF -ADONNA DELLE .EVI n THE DELLA 2OBBIA lGURES ABOVE THE ENTRANCE ARE THE LOCAL SAINTS &IORA AND ,UCILLA n AND THEN TO THE VILLAGES NICEST FEATURE THE 0ESCHIERA DAILY IN SUMMER UNTIL SUNSET IN WINTER CONTACT #OOP !MIATA + A SPRING FED LAKE AND EIGHTEENTH CENTURY GARDEN SURROUNDED BY WOODLAND AND GURGLING BROOKS 4HE ROAD BEYOND PASSES EVIDENCE OF !MIATAS INDUSTRIAL SIDE TALL CHIMNEYS SIGNALLING THE THERMAL POWER PLANTS AND MERCURY MINES THAT HAVE KEPT THE AREAS ECONOMIC HEAD ABOVE WATER 3ANTA &IORAS TOURIST OFlCE IS IN 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI AND THERE ARE A COUPLE OF HOTELS THE THREE STAR &IORA 6IA 2OMA WWWHOTELlORAIT AND CHEAPER %DEN 6IA 2OMA 3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
!RCIDOSSO AND #ASTEL DEL 0IANO
\ -ONTE !MIATA
7EST OF THE SUMMIT !2#)$/33/ IS ONE OF THE LARGER !MIATA TOWNS DOMI NATED BY A BLUNT 3IENESE TOWER BUT OF LITTLE OTHER INTEREST )T WAS HOWEVER THE BIRTHPLACE OF $AVIDE ,AZZERETTI SEE BOX ON P AND ALSO FEATURES IN ONE OF THE MOST HEATED ARTISTIC DEBATES EVER TO EMBROIL 4USCANY ITS THOUGHT TO BE !RCIDOSSOS SKYLINE THAT IS DEPICTED IN THE PAINTING UNCOVERED IN 3IENAS 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO A DISCOVERY THAT HAS THROWN INTO DOUBT THE ATTRIBUTION OF 3IMONE -ARTINIS 'UIDORICCIO DA &OGLIANO SEE P FOR MORE ON THIS CONTROVERSY 4HE SMALL TOURIST OFlCE IS IN 0IAZZA )NDIPENDENZA -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM WWWARCIDOSSOGALAMIATAIT AND THERE ARE A COUPLE OF SMALL HOTELS 'ATTO D/RO 6IA DEI 6ENTI AND 4OSCANA 6IA ,AZZARETTI WWWALBERGOTOSCANAIT -ORE TEMPTING ON THE HORIZON IS #!34%, $%, 0)!./ THE MAIN COM MERCIAL TOWN OF THIS AREA )T DOESNT REALLY LIVE UP TO THE PROMISE THOUGH THE OLD CENTRE WARRANTS A QUICK WANDER WITH ITS COVERED MARKET 0ALAZZO 0RETORIO AND 2OMANESQUE 3AN ,EONARDO -ANY OF ITS CHURCHES ARE LUMBERED WITH THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY WORKS OF THE .ASINI A THREE GENERATION DYNASTY OF SECOND RATE PAINTERS ALL OF WHOM WERE BORN IN THE TOWN THEIR WORK IS ALSO FOUND IN THE ABBEY AT !BBADIA 3AN 3ALVATORE 4HERE IS A 0RO ,OCO TOURIST OFlCE AT 6IA -ARCONI AND THE TOWN IS THE BIGGEST CENTRE IN THE REGION FOR SHOPPING AND PROVISIONS 3EGGIANO AND 0ESCINA
3%'')!./ IS AN OLD %TRUSCAN CENTRE TODAY DISTINGUISHED PRINCIPALLY BY ITS 2ENAISSANCE CHURCH OF THE -ADONNA DELLA #ARITÌ SET IN AN OLIVE GROVE JUST OUTSIDE THE VILLAGE 4HE TOWNS INHABITANTS BUILT IT AS A VOTIVE OFFERING IN AS THANKS FOR DELIVERANCE FROM FAMINE 4HEY WOULDNT BE TOO IMPRESSED TO SEE WHATS BECOME OF THEIR LABOUR OF LOVE FOR THE CHURCH HAS MANAGED TO HAVE EVERY ONE OF ITS ALTARPIECES STOLEN GRIM MODERN PAINTINGS HAVE TAKEN THEIR PLACE "ETTER EDUCATED THIEVES MIGHT HAVE MADE FOR THE NICELY SITUATED /RATORIO DI 3AN 2OCCO ALSO ON THE VILLAGES OUTSKIRTS WHOSE -ADONNA %NTHRONED BY 'IROLAMO DI $OMENICO IS BY FAR THE BEST OF THE PAINTINGS IN THE IMMEDIATE VICINITY .EARBY ALSO IN A BEAUTIFUL SETTING IS A TINY FORTIlED HAMLET 0OTENTINO *UST EAST OF THE TOWN ON THE ROAD TO 0ESCINA LIES THE 'IARDINO DI $ANIEL 3POERRI %ASTERn*UNE 3AT 3UN nPM *ULY TO MID 3EPT 4UESn3UN nPM MID 3EPT TO /CT 4UESn3UN nPM + WWWDANIELSPOERRIORG A FASCINAT
ING SIXTEEN HECTARE SCULPTURE GARDEN DESIGNED BY THE 3WISS ARTIST TO INCORPO RATE CONTEMPORARY ART INSTALLATIONS BY FORTY ARTISTS IN A NATURAL SETTING &IVE VERY WINDING KILOMETRES FURTHER ON IS 0%3#).! WHICH DESERVES MEN TION FOR ITS SUPERLATIVE RESTAURANT ,E 3ILENE CLOSED -ON 0EOPLE COME FROM MILES AROUND ESPECIALLY FOR 3UNDAY LUNCH TO SAMPLE THEIR hMODERN 4USCANv CUISINE AND lNE )TALIAN WINE SELECTION SO BOOKING IS STRONGLY ADVISED 4HE RESTAURANT DOUBLES AS A MODEST HOTEL )F YOU DONT FANCY EATING ALLOW A COUPLE OF MINUTES FOR THE LITTLE PARISH CHURCH WHICH HAS A -ADONNA AND #HILD BY ,UCCA DI 4OMMÒ AN UNDERRATED FOURTEENTH CENTURY 3IENESE PAINTER WITH WORKS SCATTERED ACROSS SOUTHERN 4USCANY
3OUTH TO 3ATURNIA AND -ANCIANO
2OCCALBEGNA
\ 3OUTH TO 3ATURNIA AND -ANCIANO
2/##!,"%'.! IS ONE OF THE lNEST VILLAGES IN SOUTHERN 4USCANY AERIAL PICTURES OF ITS PERFECT MEDIEVAL STREETS DECORATE MANY LOCAL TOURIST OFlCES BUT BARELY HINT AT THE RUGGED GRANDEUR OF ITS POSITION PERCHED M UP THE SLOPES OF -ONTE ,ABBRO ABOVE THE !LBEGNA VALLEY !LTHOUGH THE PLACE IS NOT ON ANY OBVIOUS ROUTE AND VISITORS ARE FEW THE DETOUR HERE IS MORE THAN WORTHWHILE AND THERES A SINGLE HOTEL WITH MODERATELY PRICED RESTAURANT IF YOU WANT TO STAY n ,A 0IETRA 6IA 88)6 -AGGIO WWWLOCANDALAPIETRAIT 4HE 2OCCA OF THE TOWNS NAME IS OBVIOUS FROM AFAR POISED ON A CRAG THAT RISES ALMOST TO A PYRAMID ABOVE THE VILLAGE ,IKE SO MANY IN THE REGION IT FORMED A DEFENSIVE RETREAT FOR THE !LDOBRANDESCHI OVERLORDS OF THE -AREMMA FOR SEVERAL CENTURIES ! SUPERB WALK TO THE TOP STARTS FROM THE 0IAZZA )6 .OVEMBRE AT THE FAR END OF THE VILLAGE TURN LEFT UP 3ALITA 3ASSO A YELLOW SIGN GO PAST THE "AR 4ABACCHI AND ITS THEN TEN MINUTES UP THE WINDING LANE AND A lNAL SCRAMBLE TO THE FORTIlCATIONS 4HE VIEWS OVER THE WILD AND ROCKY COUNTRYSIDE ARE TREMEN DOUS THOUGH OUTDONE BY THE FAMED VISTA OVER THE VILLAGES GRID OF STREETS 4HE LOCAL SAYING SE IL SASSO SCROCCA ADDIO LA 2OCCA h)F THE ROCK CRUMBLES ITS GOODBYE TO THE VILLAGEv SEEMS INCONTROVERTIBLE FROM THIS POINT )N THE VILLAGE BE SURE TO LOOK IN ON THE 2OMANESQUE CHURCH OF 33 !POS TOLI 0IETRO E 0AOLO NOTED FOR ITS MEDIEVAL INTERIOR AND PATCHES OF FRESCO BUT MORE FOR A TREMENDOUS TRIPTYCH OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 33 0ETER AND 0AUL BY !MBROGIO ,ORENZETTI )TS ASTONISHING TO lND A PAINTING HERE IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE BY ONE OF 3IENAS lNEST n THE ARTIST WAS RESPONSIBLE FOR THE FRESCOES OF 'OOD AND "AD 'OVERNMENT IN 3IENAS 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO )N A TOUCHING DETAIL ,ORENZETTI HAS PAINTED THE -ADONNA AFFECTIONATELY CLASPING THE #HILDS FOOT .OTE TOO THE CHERRIES HELD IN THE )NFANTS HANDS SYMBOLS OF (EAVEN ETERNAL LIFE AND THE REWARDS OF A RIGHTEOUS LIFE .EXT DOOR TO THE CHURCH UP SOME STEPS IN 6IA #AMPANA IS THE SMALL /RATORIO DEL #ROCIlSSO NOW A SMALL MUSEUM OPEN ON REQUEST )TS HIGH ALTAR CONTAINS A FOURTEENTH CENTURY PAINTED #RUCIlX BY ,UCA DI 4OMMÒ WHOSE PRESENCE IN 2OCCALBEGNA IS NO ACCIDENT n ,ORENZETTI WAS HIS MAIN INmUENCE
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
!ROUND KM FROM !RCIDOSSO 42)!.! STANDS ON THE JUNCTION OF THE ROADS WEST TO 'ROSSETO AND SOUTH TO 3ATURNIA AND 0ITIGLIANO ! PERFECT LITTLE FORTIlED HAMLET IT COMMANDS HUGE VIEWS FROM ITS CASTLE )F YOU HAVE A CAR A REWARDING DETOUR OFF THE ROAD SOUTH IS TO FOLLOW THE NEW HIGHWAY TO 'ROSSETO AS FAR AS 2OCCALBEGNA 2ELYING ON BUSES HOWEVER THIS ONLY REALLY MAKES SENSE IF YOURE MAKING FOR 'ROSSETO TWO BUSES COVER THE ROUTE DAILY
3OUTH TO 3ATURNIA -OVING SOUTH TO 3ATURNIA THERE ARE A COUPLE OF MINOR PLACES OF NOTE 0%4 2)##) KM SOUTH OF 4RIANA HAS A TWO STAR HOTEL WITH MODERATELY PRICED RES TAURANT ,A #ERINELLA WWWLALTRAMAREMMAIT !NOTHER KM ON YOU REACH 3%-02/.)!./ A CRUMBLING HALF FORGOTTEN VILLAGE CENTRED ON ANOTHER !LDOBRANDESCHI CASTLE )TS 2OMANESQUE CHURCH 33 6INCENZO E !NASTASIO HAS A PAINTING OF A DRAGON SUPPOSEDLY SLAIN NEARBY AND PLACED IN THE CASTLE FOR PUBLIC EDIlCATION "Y CONTRAST NEIGHBOURING 2OMANESQUE 3ANTA #ROCE HAS A NOTED WOODEN MEDIEVAL #RUCIlX /N A MINOR ROAD KM TO THE EAST IS THE VIRTUALLY ABANDONED HAMLET OF 2/##(%44% SITED BELOW A CASTLE ON A SPUR OVERLOOKING THE !LBEGNA VALLEY )F YOU MAKE THE DETOUR YOULL lND ONE OF THE PRETTIEST PLACES FOR MILES ALONG WITH SOME CRACKING VIEWS 3ATURNIA ,E #ASCATELLE 3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
\ 3OUTH TO 3ATURNIA AND -ANCIANO
7ORD IS SPREADING ABOUT THE SULPHUROUS HOT SPRINGS AT 3!452.)! KM SOUTH OF 4RIANA AS THE ALMOST YEAR ROUND CONVOYS OF BATTERED 6OLKSWAGEN CAMPERS AND CROWDS OF NOISY )TALIANS TESTIFY .ONETHELESS THEYRE NOT THAT EASY TO lND )F ALL YOU WANT IS A DIP YOU SHOULD INITIALLY IGNORE THE HILL TOWN AND FOLLOW THE ROAD SOUTH TOWARDS -ONTEMERANO ! LARGE SPA COMPLEX WWWTERMEDISATURNIA IT n WITH lERCE ADMISSION CHARGES A VAST POOL AND A lVE STAR HOTEL n IS SIGN POSTED TO THE LEFT AND ABOUT M ON AS THE ROAD TAKES A SHARP CURVE A DIRT TRACK HEADS OFF STRAIGHT UNSIGNPOSTED BUT USUALLY SIGNALLED BY A CLUSTER OF CARS AND VANS 4WO MINUTES WALK FROM HERE BRINGS YOU TO THE CASCATELLE SULPHUR STREAMS AND SPRINGS WHICH BURST FROM THE GROUND FORMING NATURAL ROCK POOL JACUZZIS OF WARM WATER IN WHICH YOU CAN LIE AROUND FOR HOURS SUBMERGED UP TO YOUR NECK %NTRANCE IS UNRESTRICTED AND FREE AND EVEN ON COLD DAYS THERE ARE INVARIABLY A FEW PEOPLE READY TO INDULGE 4HE HEAVY PEDESTRIAN TRAFlC MEANS THERES A BIT OF LITTER BUT APART FROM AN INEXPENSIVE BARPIZZERIA THERES SURPRIS INGLY LITTLE COMMERCIALISM 4HE BUBBLING MAIN POOL IS A BIZARRE SIGHT THE WATER AN INTENSE TURQUOISE AND ALL THE MORE SURREAL IF THE WEATHER IS OVERCAST AND THE STEAM RISING OVERHEAD 4HE PLACE ALSO HAS SOMETHING OF A CULT ASPECT AND ITS NOT UNUSUAL FOR PARTIES TO COME UP AT NIGHT FROM 2OME 2UMOUR HAS IT HOWEVER THAT SOME OF THE WATER HERE HAS ALREADY BEEN CHANNELLED THROUGH THE RESORTS TREATMENT CENTRE NOT A VERY NICE THOUGHT AND PERHAPS ENOUGH TO DISCOURAGE BATHING IN THE !PRIL TO /CTOBER SPA SEASON 0RACTICALITIES
4HERE ARE THREE DAILY BUSES ALONG THE ROAD BETWEEN 3EMPRONIANO AND -AN CIANO BE SURE TO GET OUT AT THE SPRINGS ,E 4ERME AND NOT AT 3ATURNIA VILLAGE (ITCHING SHOULD BE REASONABLY EASY AS THERES USUALLY SOMEONE HEADING FOR THE SPRINGS )F YOU INTEND TO STAY NEAR THE SPRINGS YOULL NEED A SHOWER TO WASH OFF THE SULPHUR SMELL WHICH IS NOT TOO NOTICEABLE WHEN BATHING BUT CAN LINGER FOR DAYS 4HE NEAREST HOTEL IS THE EXCELLENT ONE STAR !LBERGO 2ISTORANTE 3TELLATA IN AN ISOLATED SPOT KM DOWN FROM THE FALLS ON THE ROAD TO -ANCIANO ITS SIGNPOSTED LEFT ON A DIRT ROAD !LL THE OTHER ACCOMMODATION POSSIBILITIES ARE IN 3ATURNIA VILLAGE A FAIRLY UNAS SUMING PLACE #AMPER VANS ARE ALLOWED TO PARK OVERNIGHT IN THE MORE MODERN OF THE MAIN SQUARES AND THERE ARE A COUPLE OF HOTELS n THE 3ATURNIA 6IA -AZZINI WWWLALTRAMAREMMAIT AND 6ILLA #LODIA 6IA )TALIA WWWHOTELVILLACLODIACOM WHICH IS TUCKED AWAY IN
ONE OF THE VILLAGES NICER QUARTERS 7HEN ALLS SAID AND DONE PERHAPS THE BEST REASON TO COME HERE IS A RESTAURANT THE APPEALING "ACCO E #ERERE 6IA -AZZINI CLOSED 7ED 4HE SERVICE IS FRIENDLY THE ATMOSPHERE INTIMATE ROOM FOR JUST THIRTY DINERS AND THE FOOD n PUDDINGS ESPECIALLY n WORTH EVERY ONE OF THE + ITLL COST TO DO THE JOB PROPERLY
-ONTEMERANO
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
\ 3OUTH TO 3ATURNIA AND -ANCIANO
-IDWAY BETWEEN 3ATURNIA AND -ANCIANO LIES -/.4%-%2!./ A MEDIEVAL HILL VILLAGE WITH MODERN COMPONENT BELOW CANNILY FORTIlED ON TWO LEVELS ITS BALCONIES AND INTERLOCKED ALLEYS DECKED WITH A MORE THAN USUAL ABUNDANCE OF GERANIUMS AND OTHER HANGING GREENERY ! FASCINATING CHURCH AND EXCEP TIONAL RESTAURANT ARE GRADUALLY BRINGING THE TOURISTS IN BUT FOR THE TIME BEING IT REMAINS A PRETTY AND ALL BUT UNDOCUMENTED LITTLE GEM #OME IN !UGUST AND YOU CAN PARTAKE IN THE ANNUAL TRIPE FESTIVAL /NCE YOUVE POTTERED AROUND THE STREETS n WHICH WILL TAKE ONLY A FEW MIN UTES n HEAD FOR 3AN 'IORGIO A PRETTILY FRESCOED LITTLE CHURCH FULL OF ARTISTIC TREASURES 4HE lRST ON THE RIGHT SOUTH WALL IS A WOODEN BAS RELIEF OF THE !SSUMPTION n BY 6ECCHIETTA A PAINTER WHO ALSO SUCCESSFULLY TURNED HIS HAND TO SCULPTURE "EYOND IT BY THE DOOR IS A FADED FRESCO OF 3T /RSOLA !HEAD AT THE BOTTOM OF THE ARCH BESIDE THE HIGH ALTAR IS THE WINSOME AND WONDERFULLY TITLED -ADONNA DELLA 'ATTAIOLA hOF THE #AT mAPv PAINTED AROUND BY AN ANONYMOUS FOLLOWER OF 3ASSETTA KNOWN AS THE h-ASTER OF -ONTE MERANOv /RIGINALLY ONE HALF OF AN !NNUNCIATION NOTE THE 6IRGINS "IBLE A FEATURE OF SUCH PAINTINGS THE PICTURE PROBABLY FORMED PART OF AN ORGAN OR DOUBLE DOORED TABERNACLE THE ARCHANGEL 'ABRIEL WOULD HAVE OCCUPIED THE SECOND PANEL )T WAS THEN USED AS THE DOOR TO A GRANARY PROBABLY THE POINT AT WHICH IT RECEIVED THE HOLE IN THE BOTTOM RIGHT OF THE 6IRGINS CLOAK WHICH LED TO ITS NICKNAME !LL THIS IS SIMPLY A LIGHT HEARTED PRELUDE TO THE CHURCHS REAL HIGHLIGHTS NAMELY A POLYCHROME WOODEN STATUE OF 3T 0ETER n ANOTHER WORK BY 6ECCHIETTA LEFT OF THE HIGH ALTAR STEPS AND A GLORIOUS lF TEENTH CENTURY POLYPTYCH BY 3ANO DI 0IETRO OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 33 0ETER 'EORGE ,AWRENCE AND !NTHONY OF 0ADUA &OR SOMEWHERE TO STAY IN OR AROUND THE VILLAGE THE SMART THREE STAR /LIVETO WWWLOLIVETOIT IS THE UPMARKET CHOICE LOCATED ON THE OUTSKIRTS NEAR THE TURN OFF FOR 3ATURNIA ALTHOUGH THE PASTORALLY SITUATED 6ILLA !CQUAVIVA WWWLALTRAMAREMMAIT KM NORTH OF -ONTEMERANO IS A DElNITE lRST CHOICE TREAT WITH ROOMS IN TWO ATTRACTIVELY CONVERTED BUILDINGS SURROUNDED BY THE HOTELS OWN WINE ESTATE 4HE ,AUDO MIA WWWLOCANDALAUDOMIACOM FOR CENTURIES A COACHING INN IS AT 0ODERI DI -ONTEMERANO MIDWAY TO -ANCIANO AND HAS AN ATTRACTIVE MODERATELY PRICED RESTAURANT ATTACHED CLOSED 4UES 9OU MIGHT BE BETTER OFF HOWEVER SAVING MONEY ON ACCOMMODATION AND SPLASHING OUT ON A MEAL AT THE VERY EXPENSIVE -ICHELIN STARRED RESTAURANT $A #AINO 6IA #ANONICA IN WINTER CLOSED 7ED LUNCHTIME 4HURS 4HE COVETED -ICHELIN ROSETTE IS NOT THE RECOMMENDATION IN 4USCANY IT MIGHT BE ELSEWHERE BUT HERE IT REmECTS ABSOLUTELY lRST CLASS COOKING 4HERE ARE JUST COVERS SO BOOKING IS ESSENTIAL AND YOURE LOOKING AT AROUND + IF YOURE GOING TO STRETCH THE CHEF &OR LESS THAN A THIRD OF THIS YOU CAN EAT AT THE MOD ERATELY PRICED /STERIA 0ASSAPAROLA 6ICOLO DELLE -URA CLOSED 4HURS OR THE 6ECCHIA /STERIA #ACIO E 6INO 6IA DEL "IVIO WHICH ALSO HAS HANDFUL OF ROOMS
-ANCIANO -!.#)!./ THOUGH HARDLY SOMEWHERE YOUD MAKE A SPECIAL JOURNEY FOR IS AN ATTRACTIVE MARKET TOWN KM WEST OF 0ITIGLIANO WITH A MEDIEVAL QUARTER GROUPED AROUND A 3IENESE FORTRESS AND A PLENTIFUL SUPPLY OF BARS IN WHICH TO SOAK UP ITS SMALL TOWN ATMOSPHERE !S WELL AS A SUPPLIES STOP -ANCIANO IS AN IMPORTANT HUB OF THE SOUTHERN 4USCAN BUS NETWORK 2!-! BUSES LEAVE FROM THE BOTTOM OF 6IA -ARSALA THE STREET THAT LEADS FROM THE ROUNDABOUT UP TO THE OLD TOWN YOU CAN GET TICKETS FROM THE NEWSAGENT IN 0IAZZA DELLA 0ACE 3ERVICES INCLUDE lVE DAILY TO 'ROSSETO TWO TO /RBETELLO TWO TO 3CANSANO AND ONE TO 0ITIGLIANO VIA -ONTEMERANO AND 3ATURNIA )TS UNLIKELY YOULL WANT TO STAY IN THE TOWN BUT IF STRANDED YOULL lND A HANDFUL OF HOTELS MOST CENTRAL OF WHICH IS THE THREE STAR 2OSSI 6IA 'RAMSCI WWWHOTELROSSIIT 3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
0ITIGLIANO AND AROUND
\ 0ITIGLIANO AND AROUND
0)4)',)!./ THE LARGEST TOWN IN 4USCANYS DEEP SOUTH IS BEST APPROACHED ALONG THE ROAD FROM -ANCIANO TO THE WEST !S YOU APPROACH IT SOARS ABOVE ON A SPECTACULAR OUTCROP OF TUFA WITH MEDIEVAL BUILDINGS PERCHED ABOVE THE VALLEY mOOR AND ITS QUARTERS LINKED BY THE ARCHES OF AN IMMENSE AQUEDUCT %TRUSCAN TOMBS n SOME CONVERTED TO STORAGE CELLARS FOR WINE n HONEYCOMB THE CLIFFS A FEATURE REPEATED ALL OVER THE SURROUNDING AREA .EOLITHIC REMAINS SUGGEST A SETTLEMENT ON THE SITE FROM EARLIEST TIMES THOUGH IT lRST ROSE TO PROMINENCE AS AN %TRUSCAN AND LATER 2OMAN TOWN )N THE EARLY -IDDLE !GES THE TOWN BELONGED TO THE UBIQUITOUS !LDOBRANDESCHI WHO RULED IT FROM NEARBY 3OVANA THEN ONE OF THE CLANS TWO PRINCIPAL SOUTHERN 4USCAN POWER BASES )N IT PASSED BY MARRIAGE TO THE COUNTS OF /RSINI A MAJOR 2OMAN FAMILY WHO PRODUCED THREE POPES AND COUNTLESS CARDINALS BISHOPS AND
5 0ITIGLIANO
4HE MAJOR ENTRY POINT TO THE MEDIEVAL TOWN IS THROUGH 0IAZZA 0ETRUCCIOLI n HOST TO A CAR PARK HOTEL AND THE MAIN BUS STOP AND TO A SMALL BELVEDERE THAT LOOKS ALONG THE HOUSES AND CLIFFS ON THE TOWNS SOUTHERN EDGE )MMEDIATELY THROUGH THE GATE IS THE HIGH WALLED AND RATHER CLAUSTROPHOBIC 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI AND BEYOND IT THE MASSIVE AQUEDUCT AND FORTRESS CONTEMPORARY BUILD ING PROJECTS COMPLETED IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY UNDER 'IULIANO DA 3ANGALLO ALONG WITH A COMPLEX STRING OF FORTIlCATIONS 7ITHIN THE FORTRESS IS THE 2ENAIS SANCE 0ALAZZO /RSINI AND THE -USEO DEL -EDIOEVO E 2INASCIMENTO E &ORTEZZA /RSINI !PRILn/CT 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM .OVn-ARCH &RIn3UN AMnPM nPM + BEGUN IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY AND EXTENDED BY .ICCOLÛ /RSINI TWO CENTURIES LATER 4HE RAMP LEADING TO THE MAIN ENTRANCE ARCH HAS A SMALL PILLAR DECORATED WITH A TEXT LAUDING 'IAN &RANCESCO /RSINI RESPONSIBLE FOR INSTIGATING THE NEARBY AQUEDUCT )T ALSO HAS A CREST BEAR ING THE /RSINIS FAMILY ARMS THE HEAD OF A LION AND A BEAR THE LATTER IS A PUN ORSO IS )TALIAN FOR BEAR THE SAME ARMS APPEAR ON THE lNE WELL IN THE COURTYARD )NSIDE MUCH OF THE PALACE HAS BEEN RESTORED BRINGING NEW LUSTRE TO A SUCCESSION OF LOVELY 4USCAN CEILINGS AND INTERIORS !LL MANNER OF JEWELLERY VESTMENTS AND OTHER ECCLESIASTICAL EPHEMERA LITTER THE ROOMS WITH JUST VALUABLE WORKS OF ART AS DISTRACTION A WOODEN -ADONNA AND #HILD ATTRIBUTED TO *ACOPO DELLA 1UERCIA AND A PAINTING OF THE -ADONNA %NTHRONED BY 'UIDOCCIO #OZZARELLI 4HERE ARE ALSO TWO WORKS BY &RANCESCO :UCCARELLI n WHO WAS BORN IN THE TOWN BUT WORKED MAINLY IN 6ENICE AND ,ONDON 4HE PALACE IS ALSO HOME TO THE lVE ROOM -USEO #IVICO !RCHEOLOGICO DELLA #IVILTÌ %TRUSCA 4UESn3UN !PRILn/CT AMnPM nPM .OVn-ARCH AMnPM nPM +
\ 0ITIGLIANO AND AROUND
4HE 4OWN
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
MINOR PAPAL DIGNITARIES 5NDER THE CLAN THE TOWN BECAME MORE IMPORTANT THAN 3OVANA FROM WHICH THE BISHOPRIC WAS EVENTUALLY TRANSFERRED )TS ULTIMATE FATE IN LIKE MUCH OF THE REGION WAS TO BECOME A PART OF THE 'RAND $UCHY OF 4USCANY 0ITIGLIANO WAS ALSO KNOWN FOR ITS THRIVING *EWISH COMMUNITY WHICH BECAME ESTABLISHED DURING THE LATTER PART OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY UNDER THE PROTECTION OF THE /RSINI )N HOWEVER THE -EDICI CONlNED THE *EWS OF 0ITIGLIANO TO A GHETTO WHERE THEY REMAINED CONlNED UNTIL WHEN LEGISLA TION INTRODUCED BY THE LAST -EDICI RULER 'IAN 'ASTONE LIFTED THE PROSCRIPTION AGAINST *EWISH COMMERCIAL ACTIVITY AND LED TO THE EXPANSION OF *EWISH BUSINESSES ON PRESENT DAY 6IA :UCCARELLI "EFORE LONG 0ITIGLIANO WAS BEING REFERRED TO AS h,ITTLE *ERUSALEMv AND BOASTED A *EWISH UNIVERSITY THAT ATTRACTED STUDENTS FROM AROUND %UROPE "Y THE TIME OF )TALIAN 5NIlCATION AROUND OF 0ITIGLIANOS RESIDENTS WERE *EWISH BUT IN THE LAST DECADES OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY MANY EMIGRATED TO 0ALESTINE A PROCESS WHICH ACCELERATED AFTER 7ORLD 7AR )) n THOUGH THE GREAT MAJORITY OF 0ITIGLIANOS *EWS SURVIVED THE .AZI OCCUPATION 0ITIGLIANOS SYNAGOGUE CLOSED IN THE LATE S AND TODAY IN WHAT WAS FORMERLY ONE OF THE CENTRES OF *EWISH LEARNING IN SOUTHERN %UROPE THERE IS JUST A HANDFUL OF *EWISH RESIDENTS LEFT 4HE TOWN HAS TODAY A SLIGHTLY GRIM OCCASIONALLY SINISTER SORT OF GRANDEUR THE RESULT PARTLY OF ITS MIGHTY FORTRESS n DIVIDING THE UPPER TOWN FROM THE MORE MODERN LOWER SUBURB n AND PARTLY BECAUSE OF THE TALL ALLEYS OF THE GHETTO AREA 3EEN ON A SUNNY DAY THOUGH IT IS A GEM OF SMALL TOWN )TALY SEEMINGLY POPULATED ENTIRELY BY OLD WOMEN KNITTING OR LACEMAKING 4OGETHER WITH THE VILLAGES OF 3ORANO AND 3OVANA IT CONSTITUTES ONE OF THE MOST WORTHWHILE AND NEGLECTED SPOTS IN THE REGION
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
\ 0ITIGLIANO AND AROUND
WHICH HOUSES AN INTERESTING COLLECTION OF VASES JEWELLERY AND TRINKETS UNEARTHED IN THE NEARBY %TRUSCAN SITE OF 0OGGIO "UCO -ORE ABSORBING EXHIBITS ARE ON SHOW IN THE -USEO DELLA #IVILTÌ 'IUBON NAI LOCATED IN A SERIES OF CELLARS BENEATH THE FORTRESS WHICH WERE DISCOVERED BY ACCIDENT DURING A CLEAN UP 3OME OF THE LABYRINTH HAD REMAINED UNSEEN AND UNTOUCHED FOR THREE HUNDRED YEARS OTHER PARTS HAD BEEN lLLED WITH RUBBLE DURING 3ANGALLOS WORK ON THE FOUNDATIONS 4HE COLLECTION GROWING ALL THE TIME CENTRES ON FOLK DOMESTIC AND AGRICULTURAL EPHEMERA OF THE -AREMMA !T PRESENT YOU NEED TO MAKE AN APPOINTMENT AT THE 0ALAZZO /RSINI BUT THE HOPE IS TO lX REGULAR HOURS AND ADMISSION 4HE FORTRESS BACKS ONTO 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA THE TOWNS ELONGATED AND BEAUTIFUL MAIN SQUARE ITS SYMMETRY ACCENTUATED BY A PAIR OF FOUNTAINS AND IMMACULATELY POLLARDED ILEX TREES 7ANDER OVER TO THE BALCONY FOR A PANORAMA TAKING IN THE RIVER TREES WATERFALLS AND THE FAINT OUTLINE OF -ONTE !MIATA AWAY TO THE NORTH "EYOND LIES THE OLD TOWN PROPER A TIGHT HUDDLE OF ARCHES ALLEYS AND MEDIEVAL STREETS )T CONSISTS OF THREE MAIN STREETS MERGING INTO ONE AT THE END OF THE TOWN 4AKE THE LEFT FORK OUT OF THE SQUARE AND 6IA :UCCARELLI BRINGS YOU TO THE FORMER SYNAGOGUE 6IA :UCCARELLI COMES TO AN END BY THE 2ENAISSANCE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA ITS DOOR mANKED BY THE ARMS OF THE /RSINI FAMILY 4O THE LEFT OF THE MAIN DOOR UNDER THE TOWER NOTE THE TWELFTH CENTURY BAS RELIEF DEPICTING A HUMAN lGURE AND TWO WINGED DRAGONS )NSIDE ARE A FEW PATCHES OF FRESCO LESS INTERESTING THAN THE BUILDINGS PECULIAR TRAPEZOIDAL PLAN .EARBY IMMEDIATELY OUTSIDE THE 0ORTO #APISOTTO AND THE MEDIEVAL RAMPARTS IS A STRETCH OF %TRUS CAN WALL (EADING BACK TO 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA 6IA ' /RSINI BRINGS YOU TO 0IAZZA 'REGORIO 6)) AND THE "AROQUE $UOMO WITH ITS BUTTER COLOURED STUCCO FACADE AND GIANT CAMPANILE THE LATTER A SURVIVING PORTION OF A MUCH EARLIER 2OMANESQUE CHURCH ON THE SITE 4HE WESTERN END OF THE SQUARE FEATURES A PROMINENT TRAVERTINE PILLAR WITH ANOTHER TEXT PRAISING THE /RSINI 4HE THIRD STREET OF THE GRID 6IA 2OMA BEST ENCAPSULATES THE TOWNS PROVIN CIAL FEEL A COLLECTION OF ODD HALF EMPTY SHOPS GIVING OFF A SMELL OF MOTHBALLS n ALTHOUGH SOME ARE BEING CONVERTED INTO SMART TOURIST ORIENTATED BOUTIQUES (ERE AS ELSEWHERE THE MAIN PLEASURE IS EXPLORING THE ARCHES AND ALLEYS THAT LEAD OFF ON EITHER SIDE
0RACTICALITIES
0ITIGLIANOS HELPFUL TOURIST OFlCE IS ON 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI DAILY AMnPM nPM WWWCOLLIDIMAREMMAIT 4HE TOWN DOESNT EXACTLY BUZZ WITH VISITORS THOUGH AND WITH LUCK YOU SHOULD lND ROOM AT ITS SINGLE HOTEL THE !LBERGO 'UASTINI ON 0IAZZA 0ETRUCCIOLI WWW ALBERGOGUASTINIIT THE HOTEL IS HAPPIER DOING FULL BOARD DEALS WHICH IS NO PROBLEM AS THE RATES ARE REASONABLE AND THE FOOD FAIR )F THE HOTEL IS FULL TRY ONE OF THE SEVERAL ROOMS FOR RENT AROUND TOWN THE TOURIST OFlCE CARRIES THE LATEST LISTINGS !N OUT OF TOWN HOTEL ALTERNATIVE IS THE !LBERGO #ORANO WWWHOTELCORANOIT A MODERN PLACE WITH A POOL ITS LOCATED JUST BEYOND THE VILLAGE OF -ADONNA DELLE 'RAZIE ON THE ROAD TO -AN CIANO %VEN NICER IS THE THREE STAR 6ALLE /RIENTINA WWW VALLEORIENTINAIT AT ,OCALITÌ 6ALLE /RIENTINA KM FROM 0ITIGLIANO 0LEASANTLY RUSTIC AND FAMILY RUN IT IS IN A RURAL SETTING HAS A SWIMMING POOL TENNIS COURTS NATURAL MINERAL SPA AND OFFERS THE OPPORTUNITY TO RENT BIKES OR HORSES 4HE BEST RESTAURANTS IF YOU DONT EAT AT THE 'UASTINI ARE THE INEXPENSIVE WOODEN BEAMED 4RATTORIA $EL /RSO IN 0IAZZA 'REGORIO 6)) THE MODERATELY
PRICED /STERIA LA 4AVERNACCIA AT 6IA 2OMA WITH MAREMMANA SPECIALITIES OR THE AWARD WINNING MID PRICED /STERIA )L 4UFO !LLEGRO 6ICOLO DELLA #OSTITUZIONE CLOSED 4UES 4HE LOCAL WINE "IANCO DI 0ITIGLIANO HARD TO lND ELSEWHERE IS SOLD AT TWO GOOD VALUE OUTLETS ON 6IA 3ANTA #HIARA OFF 0IAZZA 0ETRUCCIOLI AND CELEBRATED IN A 3EPTEMBER WINE FESTIVAL 4HERES A REASONABLE BUS SERVICE PICK UP AND DROP OFF IN 0IAZZA 0ETRUCCIOLI WITH THREE DEPARTURES DAILY TO 'ROSSETO VIA -ANCIANO lVE TO /RBETELLO VIA !LBINIA lVE TO 3ORANO AND ONE TO 3EMPRONIANO VIA 3OVANA
3OVANA
3OVANAS MAIN STREET 6IA DI -EZZO IS ALMOST THE SUM OF THE PLACE A BROAD EXPANSE OF lSHBONE PATTERNED BRICK PAVING LAID IN BY &ERDINAND ) DE -EDICI AND RECENTLY RESTORED TO IMPRESSIVE EFFECT 'UARDING ITS START ARE THE RUINS OF THE !LDOBRANDESCHI CASTLE BUILT IN THE ELEVENTH CENTURY ON %TRUSCAN FOUNDATIONS IT FELL INTO GREATER DISREPAIR WITH EACH OF ITS SUBSEQUENT OWNERS n THE 3IENESE /RSINI AND -EDICI WHO TRIED TO REPOPULATE THE PLACE IN THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY BY IMPORTING FAMILIES FROM !LBANIA !T ITS END THE STREET SWELLS SLIGHTLY TO FORM THE 0IAZZA DEL 0RETORIO A PERFECT MEDIEVAL ENSEMBLE DOMINATED ON THE LEFT BY 3ANTA -ARIA ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL CHURCHES IN SOUTHERN 4USCANY "UILT IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY TO A 2OMANESQUE 'OTHIC PLAN IT HAS A SIMPLE STONE INTERIOR DOMINATED BY AN EXQUISITE CIBORIUM A UNIQUE PIECE OF PRE 2OMANESQUE PALEO #HRISTIAN SCULPTURE FROM THE EIGHTH OR NINTH CENTURY 3UCH CANOPIES DISAPPEARED FROM CHURCHES IN ABOUT THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY CONlRMING THE WORKS FAR EARLIER PROVENANCE 3UPERBLY PRESERVED EARLY FRESCOES AROUND THE WALLS SET THE SEAL ON A MARVELLOUS BUILDING /PPOSITE THE CHURCH IS THE LOW ARCHED ,OGGIA DEL #APITANO WHOSE STONE COATS OF ARMS PROCLAIM -EDICI POSSESSION AND WHOSE ARCHES CONCEAL A NICE BAR WITH A HANDFUL OF OUTDOOR TABLES .EXT TO IT IS THE THIRTEENTH CEN TURY 0ALAZZO 0RETORIO HOME TO A SMALL MUSEUM AND GALLERY 4UESn3AT AMnPM nPM + WHICH TRACES THE AREAS HISTORY PAYING PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO LOCAL %TRUSCAN TOMBS AND DISCOVERIES 0ARTICULARLY ILLUMINATING
\ 0ITIGLIANO AND AROUND
4HE VILLAGE
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
&INE %TRUSCAN TOMBS AND PRISTINE 2OMANESQUE ARCHITECTURE WOULD PLACE 3/6!.! lRMLY ON THE TOUR CIRCUIT IF ONLY IT WERE CLOSER TO 3IENA OR &LORENCE !S IT IS YOU CAN EXPLORE THIS BREATHTAKING PART ABANDONED MEDIEVAL CENTRE IN VIRTUAL SOLITUDE n SAVE AT WEEKENDS WHEN 2OMANS AND INCREASINGLY NORTHERN %UROPEANS mOCK TO THE PLACE 4HE TOWN DATES TO AT LEAST THE SEVENTH CENTURY "# WHEN THE %TRUSCANS TOOK UP RESIDENCE )T FELL TO THE 2OMANS IN THE THIRD CENTURY "# LATER BECOMING A ,OMBARD lEFDOM 4HE TOWNS PRINCIPAL MONUMENTS THOUGH DERIVE FROM ITS TIME AS THE CAPITAL OF THE !LDOBRANDESCHI A NOBLE CLAN WHOSE DOMAIN EXTENDED OVER MUCH OF SOUTHERN 4USCANY AND NORTHERN ,AZIO THEY WERE SAID TO HAVE A CASTLE FOR EVERY DAY OF THE YEAR 4HEIR GOLDEN AGE CAME WITH THE BIRTH IN 3OVANA IN OF A SCION (ILDEBRAND WHO IN WAS TO BECOME 0OPE 'REGORY 6)) A GREAT REFORMER WHO ALSO KEPT A FAVOURABLE EYE ON FAMILY BUSINESS $ECLINE SET IN DURING THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY WHEN 3OVANAS LOW LYING POSITION MADE IT VULNERABLE BOTH TO MALARIA AND 3IENESE ATTACKS AND ITS POPULATION AND POWER DRIFTED TO NEARBY 0ITIGLIANO 3IENA TOOK CONTROL OF THE TOWN IN CEDING POWER TO THE 'RAND $UCHY OF 4USCANY IN 4ODAY 3OVANAS RESIDENTS NUMBER JUST OVER A HUNDRED
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
ARE THE RECONSTRUCTIONS OF HOW TOMBS MIGHT ORIGINALLY HAVE LOOKED WELL WORTH SEEING IF YOU INTEND TO HEAD OUT AND EXPLORE THE NECROPOLIS SEE BOX OPPOSITE 4HE NINE STONE BANNERS HERE ARE THOSE OF THE TOWNS 3IENESE AND -EDICI GOVERNORS 4HE LITTLE PILLAR TO THE RIGHT OF THE MAIN DOOR WAS USED TO PIN UP PUBLIC DECLARATIONS &ROM THE SQUARE A BACK LANE LEADS THROUGH GARDENS AND OLIVE GROVES TO THE HUGE $UOMO OR #ATTEDRALE DI 33 0IETRO E 0AOLO CLOSED nPM WHOSE EXTERIOR WALL AND SUPERB PORTAL BEAR SOME OF THE lNEST ,OMBARD 2OMANESQUE CARVINGS IN 4USCANY 4HE CHURCHS NUCLEUS WENT UP IN THE EIGHTH CENTURY THE DATE OF MANY OF THE CARVINGS OR POSSIBLY EARLIER n ITS KNOWN THE TOWN WAS A CENTRE OF A DIOCESE IN THE SIXTH CENTURY n AND WAS AUGMENTED IN THE TENTH WITH THE ADDITION OF AN APSE AND CRYPT 4HE BARE TRIPLE NAVED INTERIOR FEATURES SOME TWELFTH CENTURY CARVED CAPITALS REMINISCENT OF THE "ENEDICTINE WORK IN 3ANT!NTIMO THE lNEST IS THAT ON THE SECOND PILLAR IN THE LEFT AISLE A WORK WHICH SUGGESTS THE HAND OF ,OMBARD MASONS 4HERE ARE ALSO TRACES OF FRESCO A lNE 'OTHIC FONT AND A WONDERFUL CRYPT DIVIDED INTO lVE TINY NAVES BY ANCIENT COLUMNS BUT NOW SADLY CLOSED OFF TO THE PUBLIC 4HE URN IN THE MAIN CHURCH CONTAINS THE REMAINS OF 3T -AMILIANO A SIXTH CENTURY SAINT WHO EVANGELIZED MUCH OF THE REGION "EYOND THE $UOMO YOU CAN WALK DOWN TO AN OLD TOWN GATEWAY AND TRACES OF %TRUSCAN WALL OR TURN BACK TO 0IAZZA 0RETORIO ALONG THE VILLAGES MODEST RESIDENTIAL STREET WHICH SPORTS LITTLE MORE THAN A COUPLE OF SHOPS 0RACTICALITIES
\ 0ITIGLIANO AND AROUND
4HE TOURIST OFlCE !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM nPM .OVn-ARCH &RIn3UN AMnPM nPM IS AT THE ENTRANCE TO THE MUSEUM IN THE 0ALAZZO 0RETORIO 3OVANA PRESENTS SOME GENUINE MEDIEVAL CHARM AND HAS TWO GOOD HOTELS OPPOSITE 3ANTA -ARIA IS THE THREE STAR 4AVERNA %TRUSCA A TINY PLACE WORTH BOOKING TO BE SURE OF ONE OF ITS TWELVE ROOM )TS RESTAURANT CLOSED 7ED IS lRST RATE A BEAUTIFULLY ELEGANT INTERIOR SCATTERED WITH COVETABLE ANTIQUE FURNITURE AND lNE FOOD AT AROUND + *UST OFF THE PIAZZA IS THE EIGHT ROOM ONE STAR (OTEL 3CILLA WWW
%TRUSCAN TOMBS NEAR 3OVANA
!LL ROUND 3OVANA BUT ESPECIALLY ON THE ROAD TO 3ATURNIA %TRUSCAN TOMBS RIDDLE THE COUNTRYSIDE MANY APPROACHED BY ORIGINAL hSUNKENv %TRUSCAN ROADS 7HY THESE ROADS SHOULD BE SUNKEN STILL PUZZLES SCHOLARS SOME BELIEVE THE PURPOSE WAS DEFEN SIVE IN THAT THEY WOULD ENABLE PEOPLE TO MOVE UNSEEN FROM TOWN TO TOWN OTHERS POSIT THAT THEY WERE USED FOR MOVING LIVESTOCK AND WERE CUT BELOW GROUND LEVEL TO PREVENT THE ANIMALS FROM STRAYING 4HE LARGER GRAVES ARE WELL MARKED OFF THE ROAD BY YELLOW SIGNS 4HE NECROPOLIS AS A WHOLE OF WHICH THE MARKED TOMBS FORM A TINY PART EXTENDS FOR MILES AND RATES IN ARCHEOLOGICAL IF NOT TOURIST TERMS WITH THE GRAVES AT 4ARQUINIA AND #ERVETERI -OST OF THE TOMBS DATE FROM THE SEVENTH CENTURY "# AND JUST ABOUT EVERY TYPE OF %TRUSCAN GRAVE IS PRESENT INCLUDING COLOMBARI SMALL NICHES CUT INTO THE ROCK TO TAKE CINERARY URNS 7HAT THE TOMBS LACK IN PAINTINGS THEY OFTEN MAKE UP FOR WITH ELABORATE CARVINGS 4HE KEY TOMBS ARE THE 4OMBA )LDEBRANDA -ARCHn/CT DAILY AMnDUSK .OVn&EB AMnDUSK E CONSIDERED THE BEST SINGLE TOMB IN 4USCANY AND THE 4OMBA DELLA 3IRENA SAME HOURS AND TICKET !FTER THE TUNNEL ON THE ROAD TO 3ATURNIA HOWEVER YOULL SPOT MORE TOMBS ALL OF WHICH CAN BE VISITED FREE INCLUDING THE 0OGGIO 0ESCA AND THE 0OLA A COUPLE OF MINUTES UPHILL SCRAMBLE FROM THE ROAD
SCILLA SOVANAIT WHOSE MODERATELY PRICED RESTAURANT $EI -ERLI CLOSED 4UES EXCEPT !UG ALSO HAS A BEAUTIFUL SETTING WITH A PERGOLA DRAPED IN mOWERS AND GREENERY
3ORANO
\ 0ITIGLIANO AND AROUND
3AN 1UÓRICO
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
!LL THE APPROACHES TO 3/2!./ KM NORTHEAST OF 0ITIGLIANO ARE EXTRAOR DINARY FROM THE SOUTH THE ROUTE IS LINED WITH CAVES AND TOMBS CUT INTO THE HILLSIDE FROM THE WEST THE ROAD IS CUT INTO WALLS OF TUFA 4HE VILLAGE VISIBLE FOR MILES ON EITHER APPROACH HAS A DECIDEDLY WEIRD FEEL WITH ONLY A FRACTION OF THE OLD HOUSES STILL LIVED IN 0ARTS OF THE TANGLED STREETS SUGGEST A FADED GRANDEUR OTHERS ARE DESOLATE AND DERELICT ,ANDSLIPS ARE THE MAIN PROBLEM SEVERAL STREETS HAVING BEEN DECLARED TERMINALLY UNINHABITABLE AFTER ONE BIG SLIDE !TTEMPTS TO KEEP 3ORANO ALIVE HAVE INCLUDED A POLICY OF SPONSORING CERAMIC WORKSHOPS AND VARIOUS OTHER ARTS AND CRAFTS BUSINESSES 4HE SMALL TOURIST OFlCE ON 0IAZZA "USATI !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM nPM .OVn-ARCH &RIn3UN AMnPM nPM MAKES A POINT OF PROMOTING THESE AND WILL ALSO HELP IF YOU WANT GUIDANCE AROUND THE WEALTH OF %TRUSCAN REMNANTS IN THE VAL LEY 4HE VILLAGE IS FULL OF INTRIGUING MEDIEVAL CORNERS BUT HAS LITTLE IN THE WAY OF SPECIlC SIGHTS !N OLD CASTLE DOMINATES THE CENTRE AND HAS BEEN CONVERTED INTO A lNE HISTORIC THREE STAR HOTEL THE $ELLA &ORTEZZA WWW FORTEZZAHOTELIT ENTERED FROM 0IAZZA #AIROLI 4HE lFTEEN ROOMS ARE WOOD BEAMED AND ELEGANTLY FURNISHED WITH ANTIQUES AND THE VIEWS ARE SUPERB /THER WISE NEARBY 3OVANA IS PERHAPS A BETTER OVERNIGHT OPTION BUT IF YOU WISH TO STAY LOCALLY AND PAY LESS YOU COULD GO FOR THE ONE STAR ,A "OTTE AT NEARBY -ONTORIO 4HE OTHER FORTRESS AS YOU ENTER THE TOWN IS THE &ORTEZZA /RSINI !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM nPM .OVn&EB &RIn3UN AMnPM nPM + A BLUNT AND PERFECTLY PRESERVED PIECE OF 2ENAISSANCE MILITARY ENGINEERING "UILT OVER AN OLD !LDOBRANDESCHI FORT IN IT WAS OFTEN BESIEGED BUT NEVER CAPTURED
&ROM 3ORANO THERE ARE CONSTANT VIEWS OVER THE WOODED GORGE OF THE 2IVER ,ENTE WHOSE RUSHING WATERS ECHO THROUGH THE STREETS $OWN ON THE VALLEY mOOR TANTALIZING ANCIENT TRACKS CRISSCROSS THE COUNTRYSIDE LINKING CLEARLY VISIBLE ROCK TOMBS 2OMAN WELLS AND OLD WATERMILL WORKINGS 3OME KM EAST IS THE HAMLET OF 3!. 15·2)#/ TO THE NORTH OF WHICH YOU CAN EXPLORE THE 2UPESTRE DI 6ITOZZA !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM .OVn-ARCH &RIn3UN AMnPM nPM + A SERIES OF TWO HUNDRED TOMBS GROTTOES AND PALEO #HRISTIAN REMAINS AND THE REMNANTS OF 6ITOZZA 3AN 1UÓRICOS MEDIEVAL ANTECEDENT 3AN 1UÓRICO HAS THE SALUBRIOUS TWO STAR HOTEL !GNELLI WWWLALTRAMAREMMAIT WHOSE RESTAURANT ,A 6ECCHIA &ONTE CLOSED -ON HAS A GREAT VILLAGE ATMOSPHERE AND n IN ADDITION TO INEXPENSIVE PIZZAS n SERVES UP SURPRISINGLY GOOD lSH AND SEAFOOD BOUGHT IN FRESH DAILY 0RICES ARE KEEN AROUND + MAKING IT EXTREMELY POPULAR WITH LOCALS
4RAVEL DETAILS 4RAINS "UONCONVENTO TO 'ROSSETO DAILY HR 3IENA DAILY MIN #HIUSI #HIANCIANO 4ERME TO !SCIANO DAILY MIN &LORENCE HOURLY HR MINnHR MIN -ONTEPULCIANO HOURLY MIN 3IENA HOURLY HR MIN 3INALUNGA HOURLY MIN 3IENA TO !SCIANO HOURLY MIN "UONCONVENTO DAILY MIN #HIUSI #HIANCIANO 4ERME HOURLY HR MIN 'ROSSETO VIA -ONTE !NTICO DAILY HR MIN -ONTEPULCIANO HOURLY HR 3INALUNGA HOURLY MIN
3 /54(% 2. 453 # !.9
\ 4RAVEL DETAILS
"USES !BBADIA 3AN 3ALVATORE TO !RCIDOSSO DAILY MIN "UONCONVENTO DAILY HR MIN #HIUSI DAILY HR MIN 'ROSSETO DAILY HR MIN 0IANCASTAGNAIO DAILY MIN 3ANTA &IORA DAILY MIN 3IENA n DAILY HR "UONCONVENTO TO !BBADIA 3AN 3ALVATORE DAILY HR MIN -ONTALCINO DAILY MIN -ONTEPUL CIANO DAILY HR 0IENZA DAILY MIN 3IENA DAILY MIN 4ORRENIERI DAILY MIN #HIUSI TO #HIANCIANO DAILY MIN -ONTEPUL CIANO DAILY MIN -ONTALCINO TO "UONCONVENTO DAILY MIN
3IENA DAILY HR MIN 4ORRENIERI DAILY MIN -ONTEPULCIANO TO "UONCONVENTO DAILY HR #HIANCIANO EVERY MIN MIN #HIUSI EVERY MIN MIN &LORENCE n DAILY HR 0IENZA DAILY MIN 3AN 1UÓRICO D¼RCIA DAILY MIN 3IENA n DAILY MIN 4ORRENIERI DAILY MIN 0IENZA TO "UONCONVENTO DAILY MIN -ON TEPULCIANO DAILY MIN 3AN 1UÓRICO DAILY MIN 3IENA DAILY HR MIN 4ORRENIERI DAILY MIN 0ITIGLIANO TO !LBINIA DAILY HR 'ROSSETO VIA -ANCIANO DAILY HR MIN /RBETELLO DAILY HR MIN 3AN 1UÓRICO DAILY MIN 3EMPRO NIANO DAILY MIN 3ORANO DAILY MIN 3OVANA DAILY MIN 3AN 1UÓRICO D¼RCIA TO -ONTEPULCIANO DAILY MIN 0IENZA DAILY MIN 3IENA DAILY HR MIN 4ORRENIERI DAILY MIN 3ATURNIA TO -ANCIANO DAILY MIN 3OVANA TO 0ITIGLIANO DAILY MIN 3ORANO DAILY MIN 4ORRENIERI TO !RCIDOSSO DAILY MIN "UON CONVENTO DAILY MIN 'ROSSETO DAILY HR MIN -ONTALCINO DAILY MIN 0IENZA DAILY MIN
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PSTREAM FROM &LORENCE THE !RNO VALLEY n THE 6ALDARNO n IS A FAIRLY INDUSTRIALIZED DISTRICT WITH WAREHOUSES AND MANUFACTURING PLANTS ENCLOSING MANY OF THE SMALL TOWNS STRUNG ALONG THE TRAIN LINE 3OME OF THE VILLAGES UP ON THE VALLEY SIDES RETAIN AN APPEALING MEDIEVAL SQUARE OR A CLUSTER OF ATTRACTIVE BUILDINGS BUT THERES NO VERY COMPELLING STOP BEFORE YOU REACH THE PROVINCIAL CAPITAL OF THE UPPER !RNO REGION !REZZO ONE HOURS TRAIN RIDE FROM &LORENCE 4HIS SOLIDLY BOURGEOIS CITY HAS ITS SHARE OF ARCHITEC TURAL DELIGHTS n INCLUDING ONE OF THE MOST PHOTOGENIC SQUARES IN CENTRAL )TALY n THOUGH THE DROVES OF FOREIGN VISITORS WHO TRAVEL TO !REZZO COME TO SEE ONE THING THE FRESCO CYCLE BY 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCA IN THE CHURCH OF 3AN &RANC ESCO 4HESE ARE NOT THE ONLY CROWDS TO lLL !REZZOS HOTELS FOR )TALIANS mOCK HERE IN EVEN GREATER NUMBERS FOR ANTIQUES TRADED EACH MONTH ON THE 0IAZZA 'RANDE IN QUANTITIES SCARCELY MATCHED ANYWHERE ELSE IN THE COUNTRY &OR VISITORS ON THE TRAIL OF THE MASTERPIECES OF 4USCAN ART THERE ARE TWO ESSENTIAL CALLS IN THE VICINITY OF !REZZO 4HE lRST IS THE MODEST HILL TOWN OF -ONTERCHI WHERE DELLA &RANCESCA PAINTED ONE OF THE MOST POWERFUL IMAGES OF THE 2ENAIS SANCE THE PREGNANT -ADONNA DEL 0ARTO 4WO OTHER MAGNIlCENT WORKS BY THE SAME ARTIST ARE TO BE SEEN IN HIS BIRTHPLACE 3ANSEPOLCRO ALMOST ON THE 5MBRIAN BORDER TO THE EAST AND ONE OF THE PLEASANTEST 4USCAN BACKWATERS !RT IS FAR FROM BEING THIS PROVINCES SOLE ATTRACTION )N THE #ASENTINO THE STRETCH OF THE !RNO VALLEY BETWEEN !REZZO AND THE SOURCE OF THE RIVER TO THE NORTH SMALL HILL TOWNS SUCH AS 0OPPI AND "IBBIENA STAND ABOVE A TERRAIN OF VINEYARDS AND PASTURES CRADLED BY THICKLY WOODED UPLAND 4HE SECLUDED PEAKS OF THE #ASENTINO ALSO HARBOUR TWO OF )TALYS MOST INmUENTIAL MONASTER IES #AMALDOLI AND THE &RANCISCAN SANCTUARY OF ,A 6ERNA 4USCANYS HOLIEST PILGRIMAGE SITE 4HE ANCIENT WOODLANDS CRADLING THESE SANCTUARIES HAVE BEEN PROTECTED WITHIN THE NEW 0ARCO .AZIONALE DELLE &ORESTE #ASENTINESI AN AREA THAT EXTENDS ACROSS THE SURPRISINGLY HIGH WILD AND FORESTED BORDER COUNTRY OF NORTHERN 4USCANY INTO %MILIA 2OMAGNA 4O THE SOUTH OF !REZZO STRETCHES THE AGRICULTURAL PLAIN OF THE 6ALDICHIANA WHERE THE ANCIENT HILL TOWN OF #ORTONA IS THE MAJOR ATTRACTION n AND A NICER OVERNIGHT STOP THAN !REZZO n ITS STEEP STREETS FORMING A DISTINCTIVE URBAN LAND SCAPE AND GIVING AN UNFORGETTABLE VIEW OVER ,AGO 4RASIMENO AND 6ALDICHIANA )TS ALSO HOME TO A PAIR OF lNE MUSEUMS ONE OF WHICH FEATURES MAJOR PAINTINGS BY &RA !NGELICO AND LOCALLY BORN ,UCA 3IGNORELLI 4RAINS ON THE &LORENCEn2OME RAIL LINE RUN UP THE !RNO VALLEY THROUGH !REZZO AND ON DOWN THE 6ALDICHIANA FOR #ORTONA THE NEAREST STATION ON THIS LINE IS #AMUCIA THOUGH MORE SERVICES STOP AT THE SLIGHTLY MORE DISTANT 4ERØNTOLA &OR THE #ASENTINO THERES THE ,&) PRIVATE RAIL LINE WHICH RUNS TO THE HEAD OF
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THE VALLEY FROM THE MAIN &3 STATION AT !REZZO /THERWISE !REZZO AND #ORTONA ARE THE CENTRES OF OVERLAPPING BUS NETWORKS WHICH BETWEEN THEM COVER MOST OF !REZZO PROVINCE n INCLUDING MAJOR POINTS ON THE 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCA TRAIL .OTE THAT THE PRIVATE RAILWAY FROM 3ANSEPOLCRO TO 0ERUGIA BY WAY OF #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO GIVES YOU ANOTHER WAY INTO 5MBRIA 'ENERALLY THOUGH A CAR IS ESSENTIAL IF YOU WANT TO GET TO SOME OF THE REGIONS REMOTER SIGHTS AND BACK ON THE SAME DAY OR TO GET THE MOST OUT OF THE WILDER REACHES
&ROM &LORENCE TO !REZZO
)F YOURE TRAVELLING BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT FROM &LORENCE TO !REZZO THERES NO CHOICE OF ROUTE AS BUSES AND TRAINS ALL FOLLOW THE 6ALDARNO JUST ABOUT THE MOST UNATTRACTIVE STRETCH OF WATERWAY IN 4USCANY -OVING AROUND BY CAR
THE OBVIOUS CHOICE IS BETWEEN THE TWO MAJOR ROADS THAT RUN ROUGHLY PARAL LEL TO THE RIVER THE !UTOSTRADA DEL 3OLE AND THE 33 )F YOU WANT TO COVER THE KILOMETRES QUICKLY TAKE THE FORMER IF YOU WANT TO SEE THE FEW SIGHTS OF 6ALDARNO GO FOR THE LATTER BUT BE WARNED THAT THE TARMAC IS PERPETU ALLY CLOGGED WITH LORRIES RUMBLING IN AND OUT OF THE INDUSTRIAL ESTATES THAT PEPPER THIS PART OF THE REGION 4HERE IS A THIRD ALTERNATIVE IN THE SHAPE OF THE ROAD THAT SKIRTS THE UPLAND REGION KNOWN AS THE 0RATOMAGNO )TS A FAIRLY TIRING DRIVE WITH A GEAR CHANGE REQUIRED EVERY COUPLE OF HUNDRED METRES BUT AT LEAST THE PASSENGERS HAVE THE BENEFIT OF THE LOVELY VIEW ACROSS TO #HIANTI AND THERES THE ODD 2OMANESQUE CHURCH ALONG THE WAY ONE OF THEM BOASTING A SUPERB PAINTING BY -ASACCIO 4HE 6ALDARNO ROUTE
&ASHION FACTORY OUTLETS
\ &ROM &LORENCE TO !REZZO
4USCANY IS THE POWERHOUSE OF THE COUNTRYS TEXTILE INDUSTRY AND THE !RNO VALLEY n IN PARTICULAR THE AREA BETWEEN )NCISA 6AL D!RNO AND 0ONTASSIEVE n IS THE HOME OF MANY OF THE FACTORIES THAT MANUFACTURE CLOTHES FOR THE TOP LABELS 3EVERAL OF THESE FACTO RIES HAVE RETAIL OUTLETS ALONGSIDE IN WHICH THE SEASONS LEFT OVERS SOMETIMES THE PREVIOUS SEASONS ARE SOLD AT DISCOUNTS AS HIGH AS SIXTY PERCENT 4HE BEST OF THESE SHOPS ARE LISTED BELOW !S A SHOPPING ENVIRONMENT THEY MAY NOT HAVE THE GLAMOUR OF &LORENCES 6IA 4ORNABUONI BUT THE BARGAINS ATTRACT SWARMS OF )TALIAN COGNOSCENTI AND HIGH SPENDING TOURISTS ESPECIALLY *APANESE )F YOU WANT TO GET THE PICK OF THE DAYS OFFERINGS GET THERE IN THE lRST HOUR OF TRADING $OLCE E 'ABBANA 6IA 0IAN DELL)SOLA LOCALITA 3ANTA -ARIA -ADDALENA )NCISA 6AL D!RNO 4HIS TWO STOREY SHED A FEW KILOMETRES NORTH OF )NCISA 6AL D!RNO IS PACKED WITH CLOTHES ACCESSORIES AND HOUSEHOLD ITEMS FROM THE MAIN $OLCE E 'ABBANA RANGE PLUS CHEAPER STUFF FROM THE $' DIFFUSION LABEL -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM &ENDI ,OEWE #ELLINI 6IA 0IAN DELL)SOLA 2IGNANO SULL!RNO 3ITUATED QUITE CLOSE TO $OLCE E 'ABBANA THE &ENDI,OEWE#ELLINI WAREHOUSE IS BEST FOR BAGS AND OTHER LEATHER ACCESSORIES -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM 4HE -ALL 6IA %UROPE ,ECCIO 2EGELLO ! SHORT DISTANCE EAST OF &ENDI AND $OLCE E 'ABBANA AND CONTAINING SEPARATE OUTLETS FOR 'UCCI "OTTEGA 6ENETA 3ERGIO 2OSSI ,ORO 0IANA AND !RMANI 'UCCI IS THE DOMINANT PRESENCE WITH A HUGE RANGE OF BAGS SHOES SUNGLASSES AND OTHER ACCESSORIES -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM 3PACE ,EVANELLA -ONTEVARCHI ,OCATED JUST OUTSIDE -ONTEVARCHI ON A SMALL INDUSTRIAL ESTATE IN THE ,EVANELLA DISTRICT ON THE 33 THIS UNMARKED CONCRETE SHED IS THE BUSIEST OF ALL THE FACTORY OUTLETS AS ITS STACKED WITH CLOTHES FROM THE INEFFABLY STYLISH 0RADA LABEL AS WELL AS ITEMS FROM THE SCARCELY LESS TRENDY *IL 3ANDER AND (ELMUT ,ANG BOTH OF WHICH ARE NOW SUBSIDIARIES OF 0RADA !LSO ON SALE IS A GOOD SELECTION FROM -IU -IU 0RADAS MID PRICED DIFFUSION RANGE -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM
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2IVER RAIL LINE AND AUTOSTRADA COME TOGETHER AT THE BOTTLENECK KNOWN AS )NCISA 6ALDARNO KM OUT OF CENTRAL &LORENCE 0ETRARCH GREW UP HERE AND SOME VESTIG ES OF THE OLD TOWN ARE PRESERVED n BUT INSUFlCIENT TO MAKE THE PLACE APPEALING &IGLINE 6ALDARNO KM SOUTH WAS THE BIRTHPLACE OF ANOTHER EMINENT 4USCAN -ARSILIO &ICINO COURT SCHOLAR PHILOSOPHER TO ,ORENZO IL -AGNIlCO 4HE OLD QUARTER AROUND 0IAZZA &ICINO HAS A FEW HANDSOME BUILDINGS AND ONE INTERESTING INTERIOR n THE FRESCOED #OLLEGIATA DI 3ANTA -ARIA WHICH CONTAINS A FOURTEENTH CENTURY -ADONNA BY THE SO CALLED -AESTRO DI &IGLINE
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\ &ROM &LORENCE TO !REZZO
3!. ')/6!..) 6!,$!2./ MIDWAY BETWEEN &LORENCE AND !REZZO IS THE MOST HEAVILY INDUSTRIALIZED BUT ALSO THE MOST REWARDING TOWN IN THE VALLEY 4HE ARCADED 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE IS YET ANOTHER DESIGN FROM !RNOLFO DI #AMBIO WHO IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY WAS PUT IN CHARGE OF FORTIFYING THIS &LORENTINE TOWN AGAINST THE CITIZENS OF !REZZO !T THE BACK OF THE PALAZZO NEXT TO THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA 'RAZIA THE -USEO DELLA "ASILICA DI 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA 'RAZIA SUMMER -ON 4UES &RI 3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN nPM WINTER OPENS AND CLOSES MIN EARLIER + IN 0IAZZA -ASACCIO HOUSES A &RA !NGELICO !NNUNCIATION PAINTED FOR THE #ONVENTO DI -ONTECARLO PLUS A BEAUTIFUL VERSION OF THE SAME SUBJECT BY HIS MORE OBSCURE CONTEMPORARY *ACOPO DEL 3ELLAIO !LSO ON SHOW IS A -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH &OUR 3AINTS ATTRIBUTED TO -ASACCIO WHO WAS BORN HERE IN (IS HOUSE THE -USEO #ASA -ASACCIO AT #ORSO )TALIA IS USED FOR EXHIBI TIONS OFTEN OF TOP DRAWER CONTEMPORARY ART "RUCE .AUMAN AND #ORNELIA 0ARKER HAVE BOTH HAD SHOWS HERE 4HE 'OTHIC CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCESCO AT RIGHT ANGLES TO 3ANTA -ARIA IS BLOTCHED WITH FRESCOES AS WELL )N THE 0LIOCENE ERA THE 6ALDARNO WAS A VAST LAKE ITS SHORES PATROLLED BY TROOPS OF PREHISTORIC ELEPHANTS &OSSIL REMNANTS OF THESE COLOSSAL BEASTS ARE THE PRIDE OF -/.4%6!2#() WHERE THEY ARE INSTALLED AT 6IA 0OGGIO "RACCIOLINI n IN THE -USEO 0ALEONTOLOGICO 4UESn3AT AMnNOON nPM 3UN AMnNOON + AROUND OTHER EXHIBITS KEEP THEM COMPANY )N THE CENTRE OF TOWN IN 6IA )SIDORO DEL ,UNGO THE SACRISTY OF THE #OLLEGIATA DI 3AN ,ORENZO HAS BEEN CONVERTED INTO A SMALL -USEO DI !RTE 3ACRA 4UES 4HURS 3AT AMnNOON + WHERE THE MAIN EXHIBIT IS A LITTLE CHAPEL COVERED IN CERAMICS BY !NDREA DELLA 2OBBIA )N THE CHURCH THERES A RELIQUARY CONTAINING ONE OF 4USCANYS MORE DESPERATE HOLY MEMENTOS n WATER FROM A SPRING IN A CAVE WHERE THE (OLY &AMILY ARE SAID TO HAVE RESTED ON THE mIGHT INTO %GYPT 4HIS MIGHT NOT SEEM REASON ENOUGH TO STOP ON THE WAY TO !REZZO BEYOND -ONTEVARCHI THERES NO REASON AT ALL UNLESS THAT IS YOU HAVE TIME TO TAKE A MEANDERING DIVERSION OFF THE 33 INTO THE SOUTHEASTERN CORNER OF THE #HIANTI HILLS )F YOU DO YOU SHOULD ARM YOURSELF WITH A LARGE SCALE ROAD MAP AND FOLLOW THE ROAD TO -ERCATALE THEN TAKE THE TURNING FOR "UCINE FROM THIS ROAD YOU CAN REACH THE FORTIlED HILL TOP EYRIE OF 3AN ,EOLINO WHICH GIVES FABULOUS VIEWS &ROM THERE HEAD TO #ENNINA WHERE THE CASTLE RUINS STARE ACROSS THE !RNO TOWARDS THE 0RATOMAGNO THEN STRIKE WEST FOR THE HIGHLIGHT OF THIS DIVERSION THE COMPLETELY UNSPOILED MEDIEVAL VILLAGE OF #)6)4%,,! WITH ITS MAGNIlCENT RUINED THIRTEENTH CENTURY CASTLE &ROM HERE ITS JUST KM TO THE AUTOSTRADA TO THE SOUTHWEST OF !REZZO 4HE 0RATOMAGNO ROUTE
4O MAXIMIZE THE PLEASURE OF THE WOODED ROAD ABOVE THE EAST BANK OF THE !RNO DRIVE TO 0ONTASSIEVE AND GET ONTO THE . TOWARDS THE 0ASSO DELLA #ONSUMA 4HE lRST TURNING TO THE RIGHT RISES TO 6!,,/-"2/3! WHOSE ABBEY IS THE MOTHER FOUNDATION OF THE 6ALLOMBROSAN ORDER ESTABLISHED IN BY THE &LO RENTINE 'IOVANNI 'UALBERTO SEE P !FTER 'IOVANNI WAS CANONIZED IN THIS ABBEY BECAME EXTREMELY INmUENTIAL AND BY THE lFTEENTH CENTURY IT WAS ADMINISTERING WIDE TRACTS OF 4USCAN TERRITORY -UCH REBUILT SINCE THOSE DAYS IT NOW RESEMBLES A FORTIlED VILLA WITH ITS HIGH PERIMETER WALL AND CORNER TOWERS AND IMPRESSES MAINLY BY ITS LOCATION PILLOWED AGAINST THE lR COVERED HILLS 0ART OF THE COMPLEX IS STILL OCCUPIED BY MONKS PART BY A FORESTRY SCHOOL NEITHER GROUP WELCOMES VISITORS -ILTON STAYED AT 6ALLOMBROSA AND IN 0ARADISE ,OST HE COMPARED THE THRONG OF DEMONS IN HELL TO THE hAUTUMN LEAVES THAT STROW THE BROOKS)N 6ALLOMB ROSAv 4HOUGH THE FORESTS HAVE DWINDLED IN THE INTERVENING CENTURIES THEY
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\ &ROM &LORENCE TO !REZZO
ARE STILL EXTENSIVE AS YOULL APPRECIATE IF YOU DRIVE OVER THE 0RATOMAGNO RIDGE TO 0OPPI SEE P THROUGH -/.4%-)'.!)/ WHERE THE ADJOIN ING HAMLET OF #ASTELLO OFFERS ACCOMMODATION IN THE SHAPE OF TWO TWO STAR HOTEL RESTAURANTS )L #ASTELLO 6IA 2OMA WWW ILCASTELLODIMONTEMIGNAIOCOM OPEN -ARCH n/CT AND $A #ORRADO 6IA 2OMA WWWHOTELDACORRADOIT )F YOUD LIKE A ROOM SOMEWHERE EVEN MORE REMOTE HEAD UP TO THE NEARBY 0ASSO DELLA #ONSUMA WHERE YOULL lND A COUPLE MORE TWO STAR HOTEL RESTAURANTS THE -IRAMONTI 6IA #ONSUMA AND THE 3BARAGLI 6IA #ONSUMA &OR A WALK THROUGH THE FORESTS AS GOOD A STARTING POINT AS ANY IS THE TINY RESORT OF 3ALTINO THE NEXT VILLAGE AFTER 6ALLOMBROSA ALONG THE ROAD TO !REZZO &ROM HERE PATHS LEAD UP TO THE PEAK OF -ONTE 3ECCHIETA A WINTER SKI RESORT ALSO ACCESSIBLE BY ROAD FROM THE JUNCTION KM EAST OF 6ALLOMBROSA ON THE ROAD TO -ONTEMIGNAIO THE VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT IS AMAZING "EYOND 3ALTINO THE TERRAIN OPENS OUT WITH TERRACES BORDERING THE ROAD AS IT SNAKES DOWN TO 2%''%,,/ A DIFFUSED AND CHARACTERLESS PLACE MUCH PRAISED BY CONNOISSEURS OF 4USCAN OLIVE OIL ! KILOMETRE TO THE SOUTH THE 2OMANESQUE 0IEVE OF 3AN 0IETRO A #ASCIA IS WORTH A STOP FOR THE -USEO DI !RTE 3ACRA h-ASACCIOv 4UES 4HURS nPM 3AT 3UN AMnNOON nPM + /PENED TO MARK THE SIX HUNDREDTH ANNIVERSARY OF THE BIRTH OF -ASACCIO WHO WAS BORN IN NEARBY 3AN 'IOVANNI 6ALDARNO IN THIS TINY MUSEUM HOUSES THE EARLIEST KNOWN WORK BY THE ARTIST THE 3AN 'IOVENALE 4RIPTYCH WHICH WAS PAINTED IN (AVING DISAPPEARED FROM PUBLIC VIEW THE PAINTING WAS REDIS COVERED IN IN THE MINUSCULE LOCAL CHURCH OF 3AN 'IOVENALE FROM WHERE IT WAS REMOVED TO THE 0IEVE AFTER RESTORATION ! GROUND mOOR ROOM IS DEVOTED TO BACKGROUND INFORMATION ON THE TRIPTYCH WHILE THE OTHER ROOMS ARE GIVEN OVER TO MISCELLANEOUS DOCUMENTS FURNISHING AND MINOR ARTWORKS INCLUDING SOME FROM 'HIRLANDAIOS PUPILS BUT IN ESSENCE THIS IS A GALLERY DEVOTED TO ONE MASTERPIECE -ORE 2OMANESQUE ARCHITECTURE APPEARS AT 0)!. $) 3#¿ KM ON WHERE THERES AN ELEVENTH CENTURY PIEVE #!34%,&2!.#/ $) 3/02! KM FAR THER WAS YET ANOTHER TOWN FORTIlED BY !RNOLFO DI #AMBIO BUT THE STREET PLAN AND ONE GATE ARE VIRTUALLY THE ONLY TRACES OF HIS HANDIWORK ITS MOST ATTRACTIVE FEATURE IS A MUCH RESTORED THIRTEENTH CENTURY BADÖA ON THE MAIN ROAD 4HERES ONE HOTEL THE TWO STAR #OLOMBO 6IA %UROPA !NOTHER KM BRINGS YOU TO ,/2/ #)5&&%..! WHERE RANKS OF NEW APARTMENTS FORM AN UNmATTERING PRELUDE TO A SMALL MEDIEVAL QUARTER DOWN BY THE #IUFFENNA RIVER A 2OMANESQUE TOWER AND BRIDGE FORM THE CORE 4HE MOST INTERESTING CHURCH IN THIS PART OF THE !RNO VALLEY COMES A COUPLE OF KILOMETRES ON IN THE HAMLET OF '2¼0).! WHICH IS REACHED BY TAKING A STEEP AND SHARP LEFT TURN JUST OUTSIDE ,ORO (ERE THE PARISH CHURCH OF 3AN 0IETRO DAILY AMnNOON nPM HAS SOME OF THE lNEST 2OMANESQUE CARVING IN 4USCANY DATING FROM THE EARLY THIRTEENTH CENTURY 4HE CAPITALS DEPICT KNIGHTS lGHTING ANIMALS AND VARIOUS STANDARD MOTIFS BUT YOULL HAVE TO TRAVEL A LONG WAY TO lND ANYTHING QUITE LIKE THE PULPIT WITH ITS KNOTTED COLUMNS AND ROWS OF ALARMED LOOKING lGURES WITH UPRAISED ARMS 4HE LAST PLACE OF ANY INTEREST BEFORE !REZZO IS #ASTIGLION &IBOCCHI WHOSE CENTRAL PATCH n NOW ENCLOSED BY LIGHT INDUSTRY CLOTHING AND FUR FACTORIES MOSTLY n HAS CHANGED LITTLE IN APPEARANCE SINCE THE -IDDLE !GES THOUGH NO ONE MONUMENT IN PARTICULAR STANDS OUT
!REZZO -AECENAS THE WEALTHY PATRON OF (ORACE AND 6IRGIL WAS BORN IN !2%::/ AND ITS STILL A PLACE WITH THE MONEYED TOUCH EVEN THOUGH THE ECONOMY HAS TAKEN SOMETHING OF A DOWNTURN AFTER THE PROLONGED BOOM OF THE LATTER HALF OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY 4HE REVENUE COMES MOSTLY FROM ITS JEWELLERS AND GOLDSMITHS A SECTOR WHOSE IMPORTANCE CAN BE GAUGED FROM THE FACT THAT THE CITY HAS THE WORLDS LARGEST GOLD MANUFACTURING PLANT 4OPPING UP THE COFFERS ARE THE PRO CEEDS OF !REZZOS ANTIQUES INDUSTRY IN THE VICINITY OF THE 0IAZZA 'RANDE THERE ARE SHOPS lLLED WITH THE SORT OF FURNITURE YOU PUT IN A VAULT RATHER THAN IN YOUR HOUSE AND EVERY MONTH THE &IERA !NTIQUARIA SEE BOX P TURNS THE PIAZZA INTO A VAST SHOWROOM /CCUPYING A SITE THAT CONTROLS THE MAJOR PASSES OF THE CENTRAL !PENNINES !REZZO WAS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT SETTLEMENTS OF THE %TRUSCAN FEDERA TION )T MAINTAINED ITS PRE EMINENCE UNDER 2OMAN RULE AND WAS A PROSPER OUS INDEPENDENT REPUBLIC IN THE -IDDLE !GES UNTIL IN ITS 'HIBELLINE
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ALLEGIANCES BROUGHT ABOUT A CATASTROPHIC CLASH WITH THE 'UELPH &LORENTINES AT #AMPALDINO !REZZO TEMPORARILY RECOVERED FROM THIS REVERSAL UNDER THE LEAD ERSHIP OF "ISHOP 'UIDO 4ARLATI WHOSE BELLICOSITY EVENTUALLY EARNED HIM EXCOMMUNICATION (OWEVER SUBJUGATION CAME ABOUT IN WHEN &LOR ENCE PAID THE RANSOM DEMANDED OF !REZZO BY THE CONQUERING ARMY OF ,OUIS D!NJOU 7HEN THE &RENCH DEPARTED THE CITYS PAYMASTER WAS LEFT IN POWER %VEN AS A MORTGAGED POLITICAL POWER !REZZO CONTINUED TO BE A MAJOR CULTURAL FORCE n AS IT HAD BEEN SINCE 'UIDO D!REZZO THE lRST THEORIST OF MUSICAL NOTA TION WAS BORN HERE IN THE TENTH CENTURY 0ETRARCH n LATER BROUGHT FUR THER PRESTIGE TO THE CITY AND IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY 0IETRO !RETINO AND 'IORGIO 6ASARI BOTH !RETINES FURTHER BOLSTERED ITS REPUTATION 9ET IT WAS AN OUTSIDER WHO GAVE !REZZO ITS GREATEST MONUMENT n 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCA WHOSE FRESCOES FOR THE CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCESCO BELONG IN THE SAME COMPANY AS -ASACCIOS CYCLE IN &LORENCE AND -ICHELANGELOS IN 2OME
!RRIVAL INFORMATION AND ACCOMMODATION
!STORIA 6IA 'UIDO -ONACO ! ROOM TWO STAR CLOSE TO THE BUSY 0IAZZA 'UIDO -ONACO ,OOKS SHABBY FROM THE OUTSIDE AND MANY OF THE ROOMS COULD DO WITH AN OVERHAUL BUT ITS CENTRAL AND INEXPENSIVE n AND HAS SOME ROOMS WITHOUT PRIVATE BATHS AT A DISCOUNT OF AROUND lFTY PERCENT
#AVALIERE 0ALACE 6IA DELLA -ADONNA DEL 0RATO WWWCAVALIEREHOTELSCOM &ORMERLY A ONE STAR NOW RENAMED AND REBUILT AS A ROOM FOUR STAR THIS IS ONE OF THE BETTER HOTELS IN CENTRAL !REZZO #ECCO #ORSO )TALIA INFO HOTELCECCOCOM 6ERY CENTRAL ROOM TWO STAR ABOVE A RESTAURANT OF THE SAME NAME SPACIOUS IF SLIGHTLY INSTITUTIONAL IN FEEL 2OOMS WITHOUT PRIVATE BATHS COST ALMOST + LESS THAN THE REST #HIMERA 6IA 6ITTORIO 6ENETO ,OCATED OUTSIDE THE CENTRE ON A BUSY MAIN ROAD
BEHIND THE TRAIN STATION A BIG ROOMS BLAND AND BASIC ONE STAR #ONTINENTALE 0IAZZA 'UIDO -ONACO INFO HOTELCONTINENTALECOM ,ARGE OLD THREE STAR WITH RESTAURANT RIGHT ON THE HUB OF THE LOWER TOWN %XCELLENT VIEWS FROM THE ROOF TERRACE BUT THE ROOMS ARE GENERALLY CHARACTER LESS
) 0ORTICI 6IA 2OMA WWW HOTELIPORTICICOM 4HIS SIZEABLE TOWN HOUSE HAS RECENTLY BEEN CONVERTED INTO A VERY COMFORTABLE FOUR STAR HOTEL THOUGH SOME MIGHT lND THE NOSTAL GIC TONE A BIT STUFFY )L 0ATIO 6IA #AVOUR WWWHOTELPATIOIT ! SMALL JUST SEVEN ROOMS WELCOMING AND NOT OVERLY EXPENSIVE NEW FOUR STAR JUST A MINUTES STROLL FROM 3AN &RANCESCO !S WITH ) 0ORTICI THE DECOR REmECTS !REZZOS LOVE OF ANTIQUES BUT )L 0ATIO WEARS THE STYLE MORE LIGHTLY
\ !REZZO
(OTELS
!2% : : / 02/6 ) .# %
4HE MAIN TOURIST OFlCE IS ON THE EDGE OF THE TRAIN STATION FORECOURT ON THE RIGHT AS YOU COME OUT OF THE STATION -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM WWWAPTAREZZOIT THE HELPFUL STAFF SPEAK %NG LISH AND HAVE MASSES OF INFORMATION ON !REZZO AND ITS PROVINCE 4HERE ARE CAR PARKS BY THE TRAIN STATION AND THE ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM BUT YOULL MORE EASILY lND SPACES IN THE NEW CAR PARK OUTSIDE THE NORTHERN STRETCH OF THE CITY WALLS NEAR 3AN $OMENICO OR IN THE STREETS TO THE SOUTH OF THE RAIL LINE OR NEAR 3ANTA -ARIA DELLE 'RAZIE 4HE POST OFlCE IS AT 6IA 'UIDO -ONACO !CCOMMODATION IS NOT PLENTIFUL AT ANY TIME OF YEAR IN !REZZO AND ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO COME BY ON THE lRST WEEKEND OF EVERY MONTH OWING TO THE ANTIQUES FAIR IN ADDITION THE TOWN IS BOOKED SOLID AT THE END OF !UGUST AND BEGINNING OF 3EPTEMBER WHEN THE #ONCORSO 0OLIFONICO 'UIDO D!REZZO AND THE 'IOSTRA DEL 3ARACINO FOLLOW IN QUICK SUCCESSION 'EARED PRIMARILY TO COMMERCIAL VISITORS !REZZOS HOTELS ARE GENERALLY RATHER BLAND AND CHEERLESS n BUT RECENTLY AS THE CITY HAS BEGUN TO MAKE MORE AN EFFORT TO MARKET ITSELF TO TOURISTS THE ACCOMMODATION SITUATION HAS IMPROVED A LITTLE
,A &ORESTERIA 6IA "ICCHIERAIA 4HE ONLY BUDGET ACCOM MODATION IN CENTRAL !REZZO ,A &ORESTERIA COMPRISES A DOZEN NICELY DECORATED ROOMS IN THE FORMER CONVENT OF THE CHURCH OF 3AN 0IER 0ICCOLO .O CREDIT CARDS ,A 4OSCANA 6IA - 0ERENNIO /NE STAR WITH THIRTEEN ROOMS PLUS lVE MORE IN A DIPENDENZA OR ANNEXE ON THE MAIN ROAD COMING IN FROM THE WEST ROOMS WITHOUT PRI VATE BATHROOM ARE + CHEAPER
(OSTEL /STELLO 6ILLA 3EVERI 6IA &RANCESCO 2EDI WWWPETERPANITOSTELLOHTM !REZZOS EXCELLENT HOSTEL OCCUPIES AN OLD VILLA SOME WAY NORTH OF THE TOWN n A lFTEEN MINUTE WALK FROM THE $UOMO PAST THE OLD CEMETERY OR TAKE BUS FROM 0IAZZA 'UIDO -ONACO BY THE STATION BEDS IN FOUR SIX AND EIGHT BED ROOMS 2ECEPTION OPEN AMnPM PMnMIDNIGHT /PEN *UNEn3EPT PLUS %ASTER WEEKEND #HRISTMAS .EW 9EAR + HALF BOARD + FULL BOARD +
4HE 4OWN
!2% : : / 02/6 ) .# %
4HERE ARE TWO DISTINCT PARTS TO !REZZO THE OLDER QUARTER AT THE TOP OF THE HILL AND THE BUSINESSLIKE LOWER TOWN -OST OF THE LOWER TOWN REMAINS HIDDEN FROM DAY TRIPPERS AS IT SPREADS BEHIND THE TRAIN STATION AND THE ADJACENT BUS TERMINAL &ROM THE STATION FORECOURT GO STRAIGHT AHEAD FOR 6IA 'UIDO -ONACO THE TRAF lC AXIS BETWEEN THE UPPER AND LOWER TOWN n A STREET THAT NOBODY WALKS ALONG EXCEPT TO SHOP OR TO CALL AT THE MAIN POST OFlCE 4HE PARALLEL #ORSO )TALIA NOW PEDESTRIANIZED IS THE ROUTE TO TAKE UP THE HILL AND THE STRETCH IMMEDIATELY NORTH OF 6IA &RANCESCO #RISPI IS ALSO THE PLACE TO HANG OUT IN THE EVENINGS THE PASSEGGIATA CROWDS n AND THE BARS n THIN OUT TOWARDS THE TOP OF THE CLIMB 3AN &RANCESCO n 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCAS CHURCH
\ !REZZO
/FF TO THE LEFT OF THE #ORSO ON 6IA #AVOUR NOT FAR FROM ITS SUMMIT STANDS THE BUILDING EVERYONE COMES TO !REZZO TO SEE THE BASILICA OF 3AN &RANCESCO SUM MER -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM WINTER CLOSES -ONn&RI
!REZZO FESTIVALS
!REZZOS PREMIER FOLKLORIC EVENT IS THE 'IOSTRA DEL 3ARACENO HELD IN THE 0IAZZA 'RANDE ON THE lRST 3UNDAY IN 3EPTEMBER 4HE DAY STARTS OFF WITH VARIOUS COSTUMED PROCESSIONS IN THE AFTERNOON THE ACTION SWITCHES TO THE JOUSTING ARENA IN THE PIAZZA 4HE PIAZZA IS THE JUNCTION OF THE FOUR QUARTERS OF THE CITY AND THE SIDES OF THE SQUARE ARE DECKED WITH mAGS TO MARK THEIR AFlLIATIONS %ACH QUARTER IS REPRESENTED BY A PAIR OF KNIGHTS ON HORSEBACK WHO DO BATTLE WITH A WOODEN EFlGY OF A 3ARACEN KING )N ONE HAND IT HOLDS A SHIELD MARKED WITH POINT SCORES A BIT LIKE A DARTS BOARD IN THE OTHER IT HAS A CAT O THREE TAILS WHICH SWINGS ROUND WHEN THE SHIELD IS HIT NECESSITAT ING NIFTY EVASIVE ACTION FROM THE RIDER ! GOLDEN LANCE IS AWARDED TO THE HIGHEST SCOR ING RIDER )N RECENT YEARS THIS EVENT HAS BECOME SO POPULAR THAT REDUCED VERSIONS OF THE SHOW HAVE BEEN STAGED IN THE SUMMER CHECK AT THE TOURIST OFlCE FOR THE LATEST INFORMATION ON DATES AND TICKET AVAILABILITY 4HE MUSICAL TRADITION THAT BEGAN WITH 'UIDO D!REZZO IS KEPT ALIVE CHIEmY THROUGH THE INTERNATIONAL CHORAL COMPETITION THAT BEARS HIS NAME THE #ONCORSO 0OLIFONICO 'UIDO D!REZZO HELD IN THE LAST WEEK OF !UGUST 4HE LESS AMBITIOUS 0OMERIGGI -USICALI IS A SEASON OF FREE CONCERTS HELD IN VARIOUS CHURCHES MUSEUMS AND LIBRAR IES ON AVERAGE THERES ONE CONCERT A WEEK FROM MID *ANUARY TO *UNE )N LATE *UNE AND *ULY THE !REZZO 7AVE ROCK FESTIVAL HITS THE &ORTEZZA -EDICEA 4HE &IERA !NTIQUARIA TAKES OVER THE 0IAZZA 'RANDE ON THE 3ATURDAY BEFORE THE lRST 3UNDAY OF EACH MONTH 4HE MOST EXPENSIVE STUFF IS LAID OUT BY THE 6ASARI LOGGIA WITH CHEAPER PIECES LOWER DOWN THE SQUARE AND IN THE SIDE STREETS 4HE 2OMAN NUMBER PLATES IN THE CAR PARKS GIVE YOU A CLUE AS TO WHAT LEAGUE THIS IS NOTHING n NOT EVEN THE OLD POSTCARDS n COULD BE DESCRIBED AS A BARGAIN
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PM 3AT 3UN PM "UILT IN THE S THE SHABBY BRICK BASIL ICA EARNED ITS RENOWN IN THE EARLY S WHEN THE "ACCI FAMILY COM MISSIONED 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCA TO CONTINUE THE DECORATION OF THE CHOIR 4HE PROJECT HAD BEEN START ED BY "ICCI DI ,ORENZO WHO HAD PAINTED ONLY THE %VANGELISTS IN THE VAULT AND PART OF THE ,AST *UDGEMENT ON THE ARCH OUTSIDE THE CHAPEL BEFORE HE DIED &OR THE WALL PAINT INGS 0IEROS PATRONS NOMINATED A SUBJECT WITH RATHER FEWER DRAMATIC POSSIBILITIES BUT WHICH SUITED THE CONTEMPLATIVE PERSONALITY OF THE ART IST PERFECTLY IT INSPIRED A WORK THAT CARRIES AN EMOTIONAL CHARGE UNSUR PASSED BY ANY OTHER FRESCO CYCLE 4HE THEME CHOSEN WAS 4HE ,EG END OF THE 4RUE #ROSS A STORY IN WHICH THE PHYSICAL MATERIAL OF THE #ROSS FORMS THE LINK IN THE CYCLE OF REDEMPTION THAT BEGINS WITH HUMANITYS ORIGINAL SIN 3TART ING WITH THE RIGHT WALL 0IERO PAINT ED THE SERIES IN NARRATIVE SEQUENCE WORKING CONTINUOUSLY UNTIL ABOUT n THE PRECISE CHRONOLOGY ISNT KNOWN (OWEVER THE EPISODES ARE NOT ARRANGED IN NARRATIVE SEQUENCE AS THE ARTIST PREFERRED TO ARRANGE THEM ACCORDING TO THE PRECEPTS OF SYMMETRY THUS THE TWO BATTLE SCENES FACE EACH OTHER ACROSS THE CHAP EL RATHER THAN COMING WHERE THE STORY DICTATES !S IS ALWAYS THE CASE WITH THIS MYSTICAL RATIONALIST PAINTER SMALLER SCALE SYMMETRIES ARE PRESENT IN EVERY PART OF THE WORK THE RETI NUE OF THE 1UEEN OF 3HEBA APPEARS TWICE IN MIRROR IMAGE ARRANGEMENT AND THE FACE OF THE QUEEN IS EXACTLY THE SAME AS THE FACE OF THE %MPRESS (ELENA 4HIS ORDERLINESS COMBINED WITH THE PALE LIGHT AND THE STATU ESQUE QUALITY OF THE lGURES CRE ATE AN ATMOSPHERE THATS UNIQUE TO 0IERO A SENSE OF EACH INCIDENT AS A PART OF A GREATER PLAN 4HE LITERARY SOURCE FOR THE CYCLE THE 'OLDEN ,EGEND BY *ACOPO DE 6ORAGINE IS A VERY CONVOLUTED STORY
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!REZZOS BIGLIETTO UNICO ! + TICKET GIVES YOU A SINGLE ADMISSION TO THE FOLLOWING MONUMENTS AND MUSEUMS IN !REZZO THE -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO THE -USEO 3TATALE D!RTE -EDIEVALE E -ODERNA THE #ASA 6ASARI AND THE DELLA &RANCESCA FRESCOES IN 3AN &RANCESCO 4HE TICKET CAN BE BOUGHT AT ANY OF THESE FOUR LOCATIONS BUT BEAR IN MIND THAT IMMEDIATE ADMISSION TO 3AN &RANCESCO MAY NOT BE POSSIBLE SEE BELOW
!2% : : / 02/6 ) .# %
\ !REZZO
OUR PLAN IS A BASIC GUIDE TO THE EVENTS DEPICTED 4HE IMAGES OF THE !NNUNCIATION AND TWO PROPHETS ON THE WINDOW WALL )SAIAH n PAINTED BY ONE OF 0IEROS ASSIST ANTS n TO THE LEFT *EREMIAH TO THE RIGHT HAVE NOTHING TO DO WITH THE LEGEND BUT OF COURSE RELATE TO THE THEME OF THE REDEMPTIVE SIGNIlCANCE OF THE #ROSS A POINT UNDERLINED BY THE CRUCIFORM PLAN OF THE !NNUNCIATION WHICH IN TURNS ECHOES THE PLAN OF THE 6ISION OF #ONSTANTINE ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE WINDOW WHERE THE TENT POLE AND THE RIM OF THE TENT FORM AN UPRIGHT CROSS $AMP HAS BADLY DAMAGED AREAS OF THE CHAPEL AND SOME BITS HAVE PEELED AWAY PARTLY AS A RESULT OF 0IEROS NOTORIOUSLY SLOW METHOD OF WORKING BUT MOST OF THE REST HAS EMERGED IN MAGNIlCENT CONDITION AFTER A DECADES RESTORATION WORK 9OU CAN SEE THE FRESCOES FROM THE NAVE OF THE CHURCH BUT YOU NEED TO GET CLOSER TO REALLY APPRECIATE THEM AND YOURE NOT ALLOWED ANY CLOSER THAN THE ALTAR STEPS UNLESS YOUVE BOUGHT A TICKET + VISITS ARE LIMITED TO PEOPLE AT TIME SAME HOURS AS THE CHURCH AND TO THIRTY MINUTES PER GROUP 9OU ARE ENCOURAGED TO BOOK TICKETS IN ADVANCE BY PHONE OR ONLINE ALTHOUGH OUTSIDE THE PEAK SUMMER MONTHS YOU CAN USUALLY MAKE A RESERVATION IN PERSON AT THE TICKET OFlCE BESIDE THE CHURCH AND MAY NOT HAVE TO WAIT LONG BEFORE GETTING IN IN WINTER THERES RARELY ANY WAIT AT ALL )F YOU WANT TO BE CERTAIN OF GETTING IN AT YOUR PREFERRED TIME HOWEVER RESERVE A TICKET AS FAR IN ADVANCE AS POSSIBLE 4HE 0IEVE DI 3ANTA -ARIA AND 0IAZZA 'RANDE
&ARTHER UP THE #ORSO FROM 3AN &RANCESCO STANDS ONE OF THE lNEST 2OMANESQUE STRUCTURES IN 4USCANY THE TWELFTH CENTURY 0IEVE DI 3ANTA -ARIA DAILY SUMMER AMnPM nPM WINTER AMnNOON nPM )TS ARCADED FACADE ELABORATE YET SEVERE BELONGS TO A TYPE ASSOCIATED MORE WITH 0ISA AND WESTERN 4USCANY AND IS DOUBLY UNUSUAL IN PRESENTING ITS FRONT TO A FAIRLY NARROW STREET RATHER THAN TO THE TOWNS MAIN SQUARE $ATING FROM THE S THE CARVINGS OF THE MONTHS OVER THE PORTAL ARE AN ESPECIALLY LIVELY GROUP 4HE CAMPANILE KNOWN LOCALLY AS hTHE TOWER OF THE HUNDRED HOLESv WAS ADDED IN THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY 4HE OLDEST SECTION OF THE CHALKY GREY INTERIOR IS THE RAISED SANCTUARY WHERE THE ALTARPIECE IS 0IETRO ,ORENZETTIS -ADONNA AND 3AINTS POLYPTYCH PAINTED IN 4HE UNFAMILIAR SAINT ON THE FAR LEFT ACCOMPANYING -ATTHEW THE "APTIST AND *OHN THE %VANGELIST IS 3T $ONATUS THE SECOND BISHOP OF !REZZO WHO WAS MARTYRED IN (IS RELICS ARE IN THE CRYPT ENCASED IN A BEAUTIFUL GOLD AND SILVER BUST MADE IN BY LOCAL GOLD SMITHS KNOWN ONLY AS 0IETRO AND 0AOLO 4HE 0IAZZA 'RANDE ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CHURCH IS A HANDSOME PUBLIC SQUARE LAID ON AN INTERESTING GRADIENT 4HE PASSEGGIATA RUNS OUT OF STEAM BEFORE REACHING THIS ALTITUDE AND THE PIAZZA REALLY COMES ALIVE FOR THE &IERA !NTIQUARIA AND n MORE RAUCOUSLY n FOR 3EPTEMBERS 'IOSTRA DEL 3ARACENO ! DIVERTING ASSORTMENT OF BUILDINGS ENCLOSES THE SPACE THE WOODEN BALCONIED APARTMENTS ON THE EAST SIDE FAC ING THE APSE OF 3ANTA -ARIA THE "AROQUE 0ALAZZO DEI 4RIBUNALI AND THE 0ALAZZETTO DELLA &RATERNITÌ DEI ,AICI KNOWN FOR ITS OUTSTANDING PORTAL AND IN PARTICULAR FOR THE RELIEF -ADONNA DELLA -ISERICORDIA AND ITS NEIGHBOURING NICHE STATUES 4HESE ARE THE WORK OF "ERNARDO 2OSSELLINO AND WERE ADDED TO THE EARLIER 'OTHIC
WORK BELOW WHICH INCLUDES A LUNETTE FRESCO OF THE 0IETÌ BY 3PINELLO !RETINO 4HE LOVELY ARCHED LOGGIA AND CORNICE ACROSS THE TOP OF THE PALACE ARE FROM YET ANOTHER ERA n THEY DATE FROM AND ARE THE WORK OF 'IULIANO DA 3ETTIGNANO 4HE PIAZ ZAS NORTHERN EDGE IS FORMED BY THE ARCADES OF THE ,OGGIA DI 6ASARI OCCUPIED BY SHOPS THAT IN SOME INSTANCES STILL RETAIN THEIR ORIGINAL STONE COUNTERS /N THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE 0IEVE OCCUPYING THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY 0ALAZZO DEL #APITANO DEL 0OPOLO THE #ASA -USEO )VAN "RUSCHI 4UESn3UN SUM MER AMnPM nPM WINTER AMnPM nPM + COMMEMORATES THE MAN WHO STARTED !REZZOS ANTIQUES FAIR "RUSCHIS COLLECTION OF SCULPTURES ARMOUR BOOKS AND MISCELLANEOUS OBJETS DART ARE NICELY DISPLAYED IN A SIMULATED JUMBLE BUT ITS A MUSEUM TO LEAVE UNTIL YOUVE SEEN THE REST OF THE CITYS SIGHTS 4HE $UOMO AND AROUND
! SHORT DISTANCE IN THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION FROM THE $UOMO YOULL COME ACROSS THE CHURCH OF 3AN $OMENICO DAILY AMnPM CONSTRUCTED
\ !REZZO
&ROM 3AN $OMENICO TO THE "ADÓA
!2% : : / 02/6 ) .# %
!T THE HIGHEST POINT OF THE TOWN RISES THE LARGE AND UNFUSSY $UOMO DAILY AMnPM nPM WHOSE HARMONIOUS APPEARANCE BELIES THE PRO TRACTED PROCESS OF ITS CONSTRUCTION "EGUN IN IT WAS VIRTUALLY lNISHED BY THE START OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY BUT THE CAMPANILE DATES FROM AND THE FACADE FROM 4HE CHURCHS STAINED GLASS WINDOWS A RARITY IN )TALY WERE MADE AROUND BY 'UILLAUME DE -ARCILLAT AN !REZZO BASED &RENCHMAN WHO ALSO CONTRIBUTED SOME FRESCOES TO 3AN &RANCESCO THEY LET IN SO LITTLE LIGHT THAT HIS OTHER CONTRIBUTIONS TO THE INTERIOR n THE PAINTINGS ON THE lRST THREE BAYS OF THE NAVE n ARE VIRTUALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO SEE /FF THE LEFT AISLE SEPARATED FROM THE NAVE BY A HUGE SCREEN THE #APPELLA DELLA -ADONNA DEL #ONFORTO HAS TER RACOTTAS BY THE DELLA 2OBBIA FAMILY BUT THE BEST OF THE BUILDINGS ARTWORKS LIE FARTHER DOWN THE AISLE *UST BEYOND THE ORGAN IS THE TOMB OF "ISHOP 'UIDO 4ARLATI DIED HEAD OF THE COMUNE OF !REZZO DURING ITS RESURGENCE IN THE EARLY FOURTEENTH CENTURY THE MONUMENT PLATED WITH MARBLE RELIEFS SHOWING SCENES FROM THE MILITARISTIC BISHOPS CAREER WAS POSSIBLY DESIGNED BY 'IOTTO 4HE SMALL FRESCO NESTLED AGAINST THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE TOMB IS 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCAS -AGDALENE HIS ONLY WORK IN !REZZO OUTSIDE 3AN &RANCESCO )N THE CHAPEL CLOSEST TO THE -AGDALENE LIES 0OPE 'REGORY 8 WHO DIED IN !REZZO IN A PLAQUE ON THE WALL INVITES YOU TO CONSIDER HIS REMARKABLE LIFE WHICH OVERLAPPED WITH THE LIVES OF MANY OTHER REMARKABLE INDIVIDUALS SUCH AS 3T 4HOMAS !QUINAS AND 3T "ONAVENTURE WHO BOTH TAUGHT HIM IN 0ARIS 3T &RANCIS 3T $OMINIC THE %MPEROR &REDERICK )) $ANTE AND -ARCO 0OLO 4HE -USEO $IOCESANO OPEN ON REQUEST 4HURSn3AT AMnNOON ALONGSIDE THE $UOMO WONT MAKE ANYONES DAY AS THE RESTRICTED OPENING HOURS SEEM TO CONCEDE BUT !REZZOS PUBLIC PARK THE 0ASSEGGIO DEL 0RATO WHICH EXTENDS FROM THE EAST END OF THE $UOMO TO THE &ORTEZZA -EDICEA IS A GOOD PLACE TO TAKE A PICNIC AND GAZE DOWN OVER THE TOWN OR ACROSS THE VINEYARDS TOWARDS THE #ASENTINO #OSIMO )S FORTRESS HERE WAS DEMOLISHED IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY LEAVING ONLY THE RAMPARTS *UST SOUTH OF THE PARK AND THE $UOMO AT 6ICOLO DELL/RTO STANDS THE PUTA TIVE BIRTHPLACE OF THE POET 0ETRARCH n THE #ASA DEL 0ETRARCA OPEN ON REQUEST -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM 3AT AMnNOON FREE REBUILT AFTER ITS DESTRUCTION DURING 7ORLD 7AR )) )TS FOR LITERARY PILGRIMS ONLY ALL THATS OPEN TO VISITORS IS THE LIBRARY CONTAINING A FEW MANUSCRIPTS AND A LETTER SIGNED BY THE POET
!2% : : / 02/6 ) .# %
\ !REZZO
MOSTLY IN THE LATE THIRTEENTH CENTURY BUT WITH A 'OTHIC CAMPANILE )NSIDE THERE ARE TATTERS OF lFTEENTH AND SIXTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES ON THE WALLS WHILE ABOVE THE HIGH ALTAR HANGS A DOLOROUS #RUCIlX BY #IMABUE PAINTED WHEN THE ARTIST WOULD HAVE BEEN ABOUT IT WAS RESTORED IN WITH BEAUTIFUL RESULTS &ROM HERE SIGNS POINT THE WAY TO THE #ASA 6ASARI -ON 7EDn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM + AT 6IA 88 3ETTEMBRE DESIGNED BY THE BIOGRAPHER ARCHITECT PAINTER "ORN IN !REZZO IN 'IORGIO 6ASARI WAS TAUGHT TO PAINT BY HIS DISTANT RELATIVE ,UCA 3IGNORELLI AND WENT ON TO BECOME COURT PAINTER ARCHITECT AND GENERAL ARTISTIC SUPREMO TO #OSIMO ) (IS MAJOR CONTRIBUTION TO 7ESTERN CULTURE HOWEVER IS HIS ,IVES OF THE -OST %XCELLENT )TALIAN !RCHITECTS 0AINTERS AND 3CULPTORS THE lRST ATTEMPT TO RELATE ARTISTS WORK TO THEIR SOCIAL CONTEXT AND A PRIMARY SOURCE FOR ALL HISTORIES OF THE 2ENAIS SANCE 4AKING GREATER PLEASURE FROM THE PRODUCTS OF HIS IMAGINATION THAN LATER GENERATIONS HAVE MANAGED TO EXTRACT 6ASARI FRESCOED MUCH OF HIS HOUSE WITH PORTRAITS AND MYTHOLOGICAL CHARACTERS A DECORATIVE SCHEME THAT MAKES THIS ONE OF THE BRASHEST DOMESTIC INTERIORS IN 4USCANY 0ORTRAITS INCLUDE HIS WIFE AS THE MUSE OF CONJUGAL LOVE IN THE h#HAMBER OF !POLLOv AND -ICHELANGELO AND !NDREA DEL 3ARTO IN THE h#HAMBER OF &AMEv -INOR PAINTINGS ARE STREWN ALL OVER THE PLACE PROOF THAT 'IORGIO WAS FAR FROM THE MOST INEPT PAINTER OF HIS DAY !T THE FOOT OF THE HILL AT 6IA 3AN ,ORENTINO THE lFTEENTH CENTURY 0ALAZZO "RUNI #IOCCHI HOUSES THE -USEO D!RTE -EDIOEVALE E -ODERNA 4UESn 3UN AMnPM + CONTAINING A COLLECTION OF PAINTINGS BY LOCAL ARTISTS AND MAJOLICA PIECES FROM THE THIRTEENTH TO THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURIES GENEROUSLY SPREAD OVER THREE mOORS (IGHLIGHTS ARE THE lRST mOORS MEDIEVAL AND 2ENAIS SANCE PAINTINGS BY THE LIKES OF 3PINELLO !RETINO ,UCA 3IGNORELLI AND "ARTOLOMEO DELLA 'ATTA DEVOTEES OF CERAMICS WILL REVEL IN THE lVE ROOMS CONTAINING WORKS FROM $ERUTA 'UBBIO &AENZA AND OTHER MAJOR )TALIAN CENTRES OF PRODUCTION )F YOU FOLLOW 6IA #AVOUR FROM THE -USEO D!RTE A HUGE "AROQUE TOWER SOON SIGNALS THE PRESENCE OF THE HULKING "ADIA DI 33 &LORA E ,UCILLA -ONn3AT AMnNOON nPM 3UN AMnPM 4HE INTERIOR WAS EXTENSIVELY REMOD ELLED BY 6ASARI WHO ALSO CONTRIBUTED THE MONSTROUS MAIN ALTARPIECE DESIGNED AS A TOMB MONUMENT TO THE 6ASARI FAMILY 4HE RARELY ACCESSIBLE CLOISTER REFECTORY HAS A SIMILARLY HEAVY FOOTED EXAMPLE OF 'IORGIOS WORK 4HE -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO AND 3ANTA -ARIA DELLE 'RAZIE
.EARLY ALL THE PRINCIPAL SIGHTS ARE IN THE UPPER PART OF !REZZO /NE EXCEPTION IS THE -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO DAILY AMnPM + WHICH OCCUPIES PART OF AN ABANDONED /LIVETAN MONASTERY BUILT INTO A WALL OF THE TOWNS 2OMAN AMPHITHEATRE TO THE RIGHT OF THE STATION AT 6IA -ARGARITONE 4HE REMAINS OF THE AMPHITHEATRE ENTRANCE FREE AMOUNT TO LITTLE MORE THAN THE BASE OF THE PERIMETER WALL LARGELY BECAUSE #OSIMO ) USED THE SITE AS A QUARRY FOR THE FORTRESS UP BY THE $UOMO -ORE IMPRESSIVE ARE THE MUSEUMS MARVELLOUSLY COLOURED CORALLINE VASES PRODUCED HERE IN THE lRST CENTURY "# THEY SHOW WHY !REZZOS GLASSBLOWERS ACHIEVED THEIR REPUTATION AS CONSUMMATE CRAFTSMEN THROUGHOUT THE 2OMAN WORLD )F YOURE HERE OUT OF HIGH SEASON YOU MAY NOT BE ABLE TO SEE THEM THOUGH LOW DEMAND MEANS THAT THE MUSEUMS SOMETIMES SHUT FOR DAYS AT A TIME IN WINTER 4EN MINUTES WALK AWAY SOUTH OF THE CITY CENTRE AT THE END OF 6IALE -ECENATE STANDS !REZZOS MOST EXQUISITE CHURCH 3ANTA -ARIA DELLE 'RAZIE DAILY AMnPM )N THE SIXTH CENTURY "# THE %TRUSCANS HELD FERTILITY RITES HERE BESIDE
A SPRING IN THE MIDST OF THE FOREST THAT COVERED THIS AREA !T THE INSTIGATION OF 3T "ERNARDINO THE SITE WAS PURGED OF ITS PAGAN ASSOCIATIONS BY THE BLOCKING OF THE SPRING AND THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE CHURCH WHICH STILL HAS A #ARMELITE CONVENT ATTACHED TO IT &RONTED BY A NEAT LITTLE PINE RINGED MEADOW THATS mANKED BY A PAIR OF SMALL ARCADES THE CHURCH IS ENTERED THROUGH A DELICATE PORTICO BUILT BY "ENEDETTO DA -AIANO IN THE S 4HE CHURCH IS ESSENTIALLY A SINGLE ROOM CON TAINING LITTLE MORE THAN A FEW SEATS AND AN ALTARPIECE BY 0ARRI 3PINELLO PAINTED ON THE INSTRUCTIONS OF 3T "ERNARDINO THE BEAUTIFUL MARBLE AND TERRACOTTA ALTAR THAT ENCASES IT WAS CREATED BY !NDREA DELLA 2OBBIA
%ATING AND DRINKING
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&RANCESCO BUT NOT AT ALL BAD ITS BEEN IN BUSINESS SINCE AND THE INTERIOR PRESERVES PARTS OF THE OLD %TRUSCAN 2OMAN PAVEMENT AND MEDIEVAL FRESCOES &OOD IS RELIABLE AND 4USCAN IN INSPIRATION AT AROUND + PER HEAD #LOSED -ON EVENING 4UES TWO WEEKS IN *ULY ,E 4ASTEVIN 6IA DE #ENCI (IGHLY RECOMMENDED FOR HONEST !RETINE CUISINE AT ABOUT + -USIC IN THE PIANO BAR MIGHT NOT BE TO ALL TASTES BUT THERE ARE OUTSIDE TABLES TO WHICH YOU CAN ESCAPE #LOSED -ON PLUS A PERIOD IN !UG
"ARS "ACCO E !RRIANNA 6IA #ESALPINO ! TER RIlC ENOTECA VERY CLOSE TO 3AN &RANCESCO WITH DELICIOUS FOOD TOO #LOSED -ON &IASCHETTERIA DE 2EDI 6IA DE 2EDI "USY LITTLE OSTERIA WITH A SUPERB RANGE OF VINTAGES AND DECENT SIMPLE MEALS #LOSED -ON ,A 4ORRE DI 'NICCHE 0IAGGIA 3AN -ARTINO ,OCATED OFF THE NORTHERNEASTERN CORNER OF THE 0IAZZA 'RANDE THIS PLACE IS PERFECT FOR A SIMPLE AND INEXPENSIVE MEAL WASHED DOWN WITH A GLASS FROM ITS HUGE SELECTION OF LOCAL #OLLI !RETINI AND OTHER )TALIAN WINES #LOSED 7ED WEEK IN !UG WEEKS IN *AN
\ 4O 3ANSEPOLCRO THE 0IERO TRAIL
!NTICA /STERIA ,!GANIA 6IA -AZZINI ! VERY GOOD AND INFORMAL TRATTORIA WITH WELCOMING ATMOSPHERE AND LOCAL DISHES SPECIAL EMPHASIS ON TRUFmES AND MUSH ROOMS IN SEASON AT AROUND + PER HEAD IT DRAWS MUCH OF ITS CLIENTELE FROM THE ANTIQUES DEAL ERS #LOSED -ON A PERIOD IN *UNE ) 4RE "ICCHIERI 0IAZZETTA 3OPRA I 0ONTI n ! CLASSY AND IMAGINATIVE RESTAU RANT WITH A NOTABLY EXTENSIVE WINE LIST 9OULL PAY IN THE REGION OF +n PER HEAD #LOSED 7ED )L #ANTUCCIO 6IA -ADONNA DEL 0RATO WWWIL CANTUCCIOIT 'OOD VALUE FOOD SERVED IN A PLEASANT VAULTED CELLAR 4HE HOMEMADE PASTA DISHES ARE PARTICULARLY DELICIOUS %XPECT TO PAY IN THE REGION OF + PER PERSON #LOSED 7ED )L 3ARACENO 6IA -AZZINI WWW ILSARACENOCOM &AMILY RUN TRATTORIA FOUNDED IN WITH A GOOD WINE CELLAR AND MENUS OF TRADI TIONAL !RETINE SPECIALITIES NOTABLY DUCK AT AROUND + PER HEAD WOOD OVEN PIZZAS TOO #LOSED 7ED PERIODS IN *AN *ULY ,A "UCA DI 3AN &RANCESCO 6IA 3AN &RANCESCO 4OURIST ORIENTED PLACE NEXT TO 3AN
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!REZZOS RESTAURANTS OFFER MENUS TO SUIT EVERY BUDGET AT A GENERALLY HIGH STAN DARD AND THERES GOOD FOOD AT A NUMBER OF THE CITYS BARS AS WELL 4HE BUSIEST CAFÏS ARE AROUND PIAZZAS 'UIDO -ONACO 'RANDE AND 3AN &RANCESCO AND ALONG #ORSO )TALIA &OR ICE CREAM THE lRST CHOICE IS )L 'ELATO OFF #ORSO )TALIA AT 6IA DE #ENCI WHILE FOR PICNIC PROVISIONS YOU CANT DO BETTER THAN 3BARBACIPOLLE 6IA 'ARIBALDI
4O 3ANSEPOLCRO THE 0IERO TRAIL !REZZO IS THE SPRINGBOARD FOR ONE OF 4USCANYS MOST REWARDING ART ITINERARIES THE 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCA TRAIL WHICH EXTENDS EAST OF THE CITY TO -ONTERCHI AND 3ANSEPOLCRO THE ARTISTS BIRTHPLACE AND CONTINUES VIA 0ERUGIA WHERE YOULL lND A STUNNING 0IERO ALTARPIECE IN THE MAIN ART GALLERY SEE P 4HE TRAIL THEN REACHES BEYOND THE REGION COVERED IN THIS GUIDE GOING THROUGH 5RBINO
AND ON TO 2IMINI 4HERES NO TRAIN LINK BETWEEN !REZZO AND 3ANSEPOLCRO THE SOLE RAIL APPROACH TO 3ANSEPOLCRO BEING THE PRIVATE 4ERNIn0ERUGIA LINE 4HE 3)4! BUS COMPANY RUNS SEVENTEEN SERVICES A DAY FROM !REZZO TO 3ANSE POLCRO NEARLY ALL OF WHICH CONTINUE TO #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO SEE P FOR TRAIN CONNECTIONS TO 0ERUGIA lVE STOP AT -ONTERCHI AT CONVENIENT TIMES FOR A VISIT /THERWISE THE NEAREST REGULAR STOP TO -ONTERCHI IS ,E 6ILLE KM TO THE WEST FROM WHERE THE BUSES VEER AWAY THROUGH !NGHIARI n A PLEASANT ENOUGH PLACE BUT BEST SEEN BY CAR )F YOU DONT HAVE YOUR OWN TRANSPORT HITCHING IS A VIABLE ALTERNATIVE AS THIS IS A BUSY STRETCH OF ROAD !ND THE ROUTE WILL BECOME EVEN BUSIER WITH THE COMPLETION OF THE HIGHLY CONSPICUOUS AND CONTROVERSIAL NEW AUTOSTRADA FROM !REZZO WHICH n IF BUILT ACCORDING TO THE PRESENT PLAN n WILL RUIN THE LANDSCAPE AROUND -ONTERCHI
-ONTERCHI n THE -ADONNA DEL 0ARTO
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\ 4O 3ANSEPOLCRO THE 0IERO TRAIL
4HE FARMING VILLAGE OF -/.4%2#() IS KM EAST OF !REZZO AND FOR THE LAST FEW KILOMETRES OF THE JOURNEY THE ROADSIDES BEAR SIGNS FOR THE -ADONNA DEL 0ARTO n SURELY THE ONLY PAINTING IN 4USCANY TO BE SIGNPOSTED AS IF IT WERE A TOWN 4HE FRESCO WAS PAINTED AROUND FOR A CEMETERY CHAPEL THAT STANDS ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF -ONTERCHI AND REMAINED HIDDEN UNDER PLASTER FOR CENTURIES BEFORE ITS REDISCOVERY IN n BY WHICH TIME THE 3T ,UCY AND THE 0IETÌ THAT 0IERO ALSO PAINTED HERE HAD BOTH BEEN LOST 4HE -ADONNA WAS REMOVED TO 3AN SEPOLCRO AFTER AN EARTHQUAKE DAMAGED THE CHAPEL IN BUT AT THE INSISTENCE OF THE LOCAL COMUNE IT WAS BROUGHT BACK HERE WITHIN lVE YEARS $URING 7ORLD 7AR )) THEY BECAME SO WORRIED THAT SOME MISFORTUNE MIGHT BEFALL THE FRESCO THAT A FALSE WALL WAS CONSTRUCTED TO PROTECT IT AND SINCE THEN THE -ADONNA HAS RECEIVED THE ATTENTIONS OF A NUMBER OF RESTORERS )N THE FRESCO WAS MOVED FROM THE CEMETERY CHAPEL TO AN EX PRIMARY SCHOOL ON 6IA DELLA 2EGLIA THERE TO UNDERGO MAJOR RESTORATION 3ECURITY WAS THE REASON GIVEN FOR THE SWITCH BUT LOCAL FEELING IS THAT ITS MORE TO DO WITH THE RESTORATIONS SPONSORS WHO ARE WELL SERVED BY THE PUBLICITY THAT GOES WITH THE PAINTING n PUBLICITY WHICH MIGHT BE UNSEEMLY AROUND A CEMETERY CHAPEL 4HERE ARE A FEW PARKING SPACES OUTSIDE THE SCHOOL BUT IN SUMMER ITS BEST TO PARK BELOW THE VILLAGE JUST OFF THE MAIN ROAD AND WALK UP THROUGH THE VILLAGE THE SCHOOL AS UNDISTINGUISHED A BUILDING AS ITS POSSIBLE TO lND IN 4USCANY LIES ON THE FAR SIDE JUST OUTSIDE THE OLD VILLAGE WALLS 4HE PAINTING LOOKS LIKELY TO REMAIN IN ITS UTILITARIAN BOX DESPITE THE MUTTERINGS OF MANY WHO FEEL ITS FORMER HOME IS MORE APPROPRIATE )T IS THE FOCAL POINT OF A PERMANENT EXHIBITION 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM WINTER CLOSES PM + RECOUNTING THE TECHNICAL DETAILS OF THE FRESCOS RESTORATION AND ALSO THAT OF THE 3AN &RANCESCO CYCLE IN !REZZO 4HE PICTURE IS STILL AN OBJECT OF PILGRIMAGE AND THE MUSEUM IS CLEARED WHEN LOCAL PREGNANT WOMEN COME TO PRAY TO THE 6IRGIN $ESPITE THE RESTORATION THE COLOURS OF THE -ADONNA DEL 0ARTO LACK THE FRESH NESS OF THE !REZZO CYCLE BUT EVEN BLEACHED TO BLACK AND WHITE THIS WOULD BE AN OVERWHELMING PICTURE TWO ATTENDANT ANGELS DRAW BACK THE mAP OF A SMALL PAVILION TO REVEAL THE PREGNANT 6IRGIN WHO PLACES HER HAND ON THE UPPER CURVE OF HER BELLY HER EYES DOWNCAST AS IF PREOCCUPIED WITH A FOREKNOWLEDGE OF THE COURSE OF THE CHILDS LIFE )MAGES OF THE PREGNANT -ARY BEGAN TO APPEAR IN 4USCAN ART IN THE S THE lRST MAJOR -ADONNA DEL 0ARTO WAS PAINTED FOR THE CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCSCO DI 0AOLA IN &LORENCE BY 4ADDEO 'ADDI AROUND A DATE WHICH HAS LED 2ENZO -ANETTI A &LORENTINE WRITER AND ARCHITECT TO PROPOSE THAT THESE PICTURES SHOULD BE READ AS REFERENCES TO A hHIDDEN TRUTHv THAT WAS KNOWN ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE +NIGHTS 4EMPLAR 0ROCEEDING FROM THE FACTS THAT THE 4EMPLARS
WERE SUPPRESSED IN AND THAT &LORENCE WAS A MAJOR CENTRE FOR THE SECT -AN ETTI ARGUES THAT DELLA &RANCESCAS FRESCO ALMOST THE LAST -ADONNA DEL 0ARTO TO BE PAINTED IS PERHAPS INDICATIVE OF HIS 4EMPLAR SYMPATHIES /THERS HAVE DISMISSED HIS THEORY AS JUST ANOTHER EXERCISE IN CONSPIRATORIAL MUMBO JUMBO ALONG THE LINES OF THE $A 6INCI #ODE 7HETHER THIS -ADONNA DEL 0ARTO IS A PIECE OF CODED PROPAGANDA OR WHAT IT PLAINLY APPEARS TO BE n A MEDITATION ON THE MYSTERY OF THE )NCARNATION n ITS INCONTESTABLE THAT FEW OTHER ARTISTS OF THE 2ENAISSANCE PRODUCED ANYTHING COMPARABLE TO ITS BEAUTIFUL GRAVITY
!NGHIARI AND #APRESE -ICHELANGELO
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\ 4O 3ANSEPOLCRO THE 0IERO TRAIL
-OST BUSES FROM !REZZO TO 3ANSEPOLCRO CALL AT !.'()!2) AN AGRICULTURAL AND TEXTILE PRODUCING HILL TOWN SET AMID lELDS OF SUNmOWERS AND TOBACCO WITH A LUCRATIVE SIDE LINE IN FURNITURE RESTORATION n THE TOWN HAS A RENOWNED TRAINING CENTRE FOR SPECIALISTS IN THE CRAFT AND HOSTS AN ANTIQUES FAIR ON THE THIRD 3UNDAY OF EACH MONTH AS WELL AS A HUGE ANNUAL CRAFTS MARKET IN LATE !PRIL !NGHIARIS DIMIN UTIVE HISTORIC CENTRE OF NARROW STREETS STEPPED ALLEYWAYS AND TUNNELS COMMANDS A lNE VIEW ACROSS THE UPPER 4IBER TOWARDS 3ANSEPOLCRO )T WAS ON THIS GROUND ON *UNE THAT THE &LORENTINE ARMY DEFEATED THE -ILANESE TROOPS OF &ILIPPO -ARIA 6ISCONTI AN ENGAGEMENT THAT BECAME THE SUBJECT OF PERHAPS THE MOST FAMOUS LOST ARTWORK OF THE 2ENAISSANCE ,EONARDO DA 6INCIS FRESCO IN &LORENCES 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO 4HERES A SMALL EXHIBITION RELATING TO THE BATTLE IN THE 0ALAZZO DEL -ARZOCCO ON 0IAZZA -AMELI !PRILn/CT -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN nPM nPM .OVn-ARCH &RIn3UN AMnPM nPM + /N THE SAME PIAZZA THE IMPOSING 0ALAZZO 4AGLIESCHI IS HOME TO THE -USEO 3TATALE 4UESn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM + A WELL DISPLAYED COLLECTION OF MOSTLY UNEXCEPTIONAL ARTWORKS AND DOMESTIC ITEMS BUT WITH ONE OUTSTANDING PIECE A PAINTED WOODEN -ADONNA BY *ACOPO DELLA 1UERCIA 4HE #HILD THAT WAS ONCE PERCHED ON HER KNEE HAS BEEN DISPLAYED SEPARATELY SINCE THE SCULPTURE WAS RESTORED AS THE RESTORERS BELIEVE IT MAY NOT HAVE BEEN CARVED AT THE SAME TIME -ICHELANGELO EFFECTIVELY ,EONARDOS COMPETITOR IN THE DECORATION OF THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO WAS BORN KM NORTH OF !NGHIARI IN THE PLACE THAT NOW CARRIES THE NAME #!02%3% -)#(%,!.'%,/ IT WAS JUST PLAIN #APRESE BEFORE BEING RENAMED IN HONOUR OF THE PRODIGIOUS SON OF THE TOWNS CHIEF MAGISTRATE AND HIS WIFE 4HE ANCIENT VILLAGE IS PERCHED HIGH ON A CLIFF OVERLOOKING THE CAR PARK BUS STOP WITH REGULAR SERVICES FROM !NGHIARI AND THE TWO STAR "UCA DI -ICHELANGELO HOTEL RESTAURANT WWWBUCADIMICHELANGELO IT ! STEPPED PATH RISES FROM HERE THROUGH CYPRESSES AND ALLOTMENTS TO THE ARCHED GATEWAY 4HE CASTLE AND -ICHELANGELOS SUPPOSED BIRTHPLACE THE #ASA DEL 0ODESTÌ HAVE BEEN CONVERTED INTO A -USEO -ICHELANGIOLESCO DAILY SUMMER AMnPM WINTER CLOSES PM + A FEW BITS OF 2ENAISSANCE FURNITURE AND A LOAD OF PLASTER CASTS CREATE THE UNDERNOURISHING EXPERIENCE THATS TYPICAL OF THESE SHRINES TO GREAT 4USCAN ARTISTS 4HE BEST PLACE TO EAT HEREABOUTS IS IN NEARBY !LPE &AGGETA WHERE THE &ONTE DELLA 'ALLETTA RESTAURANT OFFERS EXCELLENT 4USCAN FOOD WITH THE EMPHASIS ON LOCAL FUNGHI AT AROUND + A HEAD *ULY !UG OPEN DAILY !PRILn*UNE 3EPTn$EC CLOSED 4UES *ANn-ARCH CLOSED -ONn4HURS )T FORMS PART OF THE THREE STAR HOTEL OF THE SAME NAME WHICH HAS A LOVELY HILLTOP WOODLAND SET TING WWWFONTEDELLAGALLETTAIT )N THE NEARBY HAMLET OF &RAGAIOLO YOULL lND THE -ICHELANGELO HOSTEL + *UNE n3EPT 4HERE ARE SOME EXCELLENT WALKS IN THE SURROUNDING HILLS 4HE BEST STARTS A SHORT DISTANCE TO THE NORTH OF #APRESE FOLLOW THE PLUNGING ROAD TO ,AMA KM
THEN TAKE THE TURNING FOR &RAGAIOLO FROM HERE A WAYMARKED TRAIL RISES TO ,A 6ERNA SEE P A SOLID HALF DAYS TREK
3ANSEPOLCRO
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\ 4O 3ANSEPOLCRO THE 0IERO TRAIL
4HE 3)4! BUS FROM !REZZO TAKES AN HOUR TO GET TO 3!.3%0/,#2/ AN UNASSUMING PLACE THAT MAKES ITS WAY IN THE WORLD AS A MANUFACTURER OF LACE AND MORE LUCRATIVELY PASTA )F THE WALLED CENTRO STORICO WITHIN THE INDUSTRIAL AND COM MERCIAL BELT WERE A BIT MORE SUBSTANTIAL IT COULD MAKE A LOT MORE MONEY OUT OF TOURISM AS IT IS THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE COME HERE EACH YEAR TO SEE 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCAS 2ESURRECTION THEN LEAVE A COUPLE OF HOURS LATER 4HERE REALLY ISNT MUCH MORE TO THE PLACE THAN THESE PICTURES BUT ITS A RELAXING AND GOOD LOOKING SMALL TOWN AND HAS A COUPLE OF lNE RESTAURANTS TO COMPLETE THE DAY "ORN HERE AT SOME TIME AROUND 0IERO SPENT MUCH OF HIS LIFE IN THE ISOLATION OF WHAT WAS THEN THE VILLAGE OF "ORGO 3AN 3EPOLCRO A THREE YEAR SOJOURN IN &LORENCE WAS PROBABLY HIS LONGEST CONTINUOUS ABSENCE 0ATRONS IN &ERRARA 2OME AND 5RBINO CALLED UPON HIS SERVICES EVEN THOUGH HIS CREATIVE PROCESS WAS SO PAINSTAKING THAT ON ONE OCCASION HIS FATHER HAD TO APOLOGIZE TO A CLIENT FOR 0IEROS SLOWNESS (E RETURNED TO 3ANSEPOLCRO IN THE S HAVING ABANDONED PAINTING AS HIS EYESIGHT FAILED -OST OF HIS LAST TWENTY YEARS WERE DEVOTED TO WORKING ON HIS TREATISES /N 0ERSPECTIVE IN 0AINTING AND /N THE &IVE 2EGULAR "ODIES IN WHICH HE PROPOUNDED THE GEOMETRICAL RULES THAT DETERMINE ALL ACCURATE REPRESENTATION OF THE WORLD AND EXTOLLED THE HUMAN FORM AS THE EXEMPLAR OF PERFECT PROPORTION 4HE -USEO #IVICO
4HE -USEO #IVICO IS AT 6IA .ICCOLÛ !GGIUNTI DAILY *UNEn3EPT AMn PM nPM /CTn!PRIL AMnPM nPM + THE ROAD THAT EMERGES FROM THE TOWN WALLS RIGHT BY THE BUS STATION 4HE MUSEUM ENTRANCE IS ON THE MAIN SQUARE -INOR WORKS INCLUDE TWO PANELS BY -ATTEO DI 'IOVANNI THAT USED TO mANK DELLA &RANCESCAS "APTISM NOW IN ,ONDONS .ATIONAL 'ALLERY A GOOD !NNUNCIATION BY 3ANTI DI 4ITO AND A PAINTED STANDARD BY 3IGNO RELLI WHO WAS ONE OF HIS PUPILS ! COUPLE OF MINOR DELLA &RANCESCA PAINTINGS ARE HUNG IN THE VICINITY OF THE -ADONNA DELLA -ISERICORDIA 0IEROS EARLIEST KNOWN PAINTING AND THE EPITO ME OF HIS GRACEFUL SOLEMNITY )T WAS CREATED IN THE S SOON AFTER HE HAD BEEN MADE A MEMBER OF 3ANSEPOLCROS GOVERNING COUNCIL A POSITION HE WAS TO HOLD FOR THE REST OF HIS LIFE 4INY PANELS SURROUND THE CENTRAL IMAGE OF THE -ADONNA A CONVENTIONAL AND ANTIQUATED FORMAT THAT WAS SPECIlED BY HIS PATRONS THE CHARI TABLE #OMPAGNIA DELLA -ISERICORDIA 4HERES NO CONVENTIONAL FRAGILITY ABOUT THIS -ADONNA THOUGH COMPASSIONATE AND ALL CAPABLE SHE PROTECTS HER WORSHIPPERS WITH A CAPE AS SOLID AS A WALL 4HE HOODED MAN AT HER FEET IS WEARING THE UNI FORM OF THE -ISERICORDIA A SINISTER GARB STILL WORN BY MEMBERS OF THE MODERN -ISERICORDIA WHEN BEARING A BODY TO A FUNERAL 4HE 2ESURRECTION IN THE NEXT ROOM WAS PAINTED FOR THE ADJOINING TOWN HALL PROBABLY IN THE EARLY S AND MOVED HERE IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY !LDOUS (UXLEY ONCE DUBBED THIS hTHE GREATEST PAINTING IN THE WORLDv A PIECE OF HYPERBOLE THAT MAY WELL HAVE SAVED THE PAINTING FROM OBLITERATION )N THE "RITISH %IGHTH !RMY WAS ORDERED TO BOMBARD 3ANSEPOLCRO BUT AN OFlCER RECALLED (UXLEYS ARTICLE AND DELAYED THE ATTACK IN THE HOPE THAT THE 'ERMANS WOULD WITHDRAW n WHICH THEY DID -UCH OF THE PICTURES POWER COMES FROM ITS UNIQUE EMPHASIS ON THE 2ESURRECTION AS A PHYSICAL EVENT MUSCULAR AND IMPLAC ABLE #HRIST STEPS ONTO THE EDGE OF THE TOMB n BANNER IN HAND n AS IF IT WERE
THE RAMPART OF A CONQUERED CITY /NE OF THE SOLDIERS IN THE FOREGROUND PLACES HIS HAND ON HIS EYES A GESTURE THAT MIGHT BE READ AS SIMPLE WEARINESS OR THE DESPAIR OF THE VANQUISHED HEATHEN 4HE STRANGE LANDSCAPE IN THE BACKGROUND n WITH LEAmESS TREES ON ONE SIDE AND REBORN FOLIAGE ON THE OTHER n WAS THE STARTING POINT FOR +ENNETH #LARKS DESCRIPTION WHICH PINPOINTS A PRE #HRISTIAN STRAND TO THE PAINTINGS SIGNIlCANCE h4HIS COUNTRY GOD WHO RISES IN THE GREY LIGHT WHILE HUMANITY IS ASLEEP HAS BEEN WORSHIPPED EVER SINCE MAN lRST KNEW THAT THE SEED IS NOT DEAD IN THE WINTER EARTH BUT WILL FORCE ITS WAY UPWARDS THROUGH AN IRON CRUSTv %VERYTHING ELSE HERE TENDS TO PALL ALONGSIDE THE 0IEROS BUT THE MUSEUM DOES HAVE A lNE DOUBLE SIDED PROCESSIONAL BANNER PAINTED BY ,UCA 3IGNORELLI AND ITS DIFlCULT NOT TO GET HOOKED BY 0ONTORMOS SADISTIC -ARTYRDOM OF 3T 1UENTIN WHICH GIVES SPECIAL MEANING TO THE WORD hlNGERNAILSv )N THE BASEMENT THE CATHEDRALS TREASURY IS ON SHOW ALONG WITH A SMALL ARCHEOLOGICAL COLLECTION AND ON THE TOP mOOR THERES A DISPLAY OF MINOR FRESCOES 4HE $UOMO AND 3AN ,ORENZO
4HE LAST BUS BACK TO !REZZO LEAVES AT AROUND PM THE LAST TO #ITTÌ DI #AS TELLO SEE P AT AROUND PM )F YOU DECIDE TO STAY YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO lND SPACE IN AT LEAST ONE OF THE TOWNS HALF DOZEN HOTELS 4OP RECOMMENDATION IS THE THREE STAR &IORENTINO WHICH HAS BEEN AT 6IA ,UCA 0ACIOLI SINCE WWWALBERGOlORENTINOCOM THE ROOMS ARE SMALL AND FUNCTIONAL BUT THE HOTEL HAS FRIENDLY OWNERS ITS PRICES ARE LOW ITS CENTRAL LOCA TION CANNOT BE BEATEN THE OTHER THREE STARS ARE ALL OUTSIDE THE WALLED CENTRE AND IT HAS A VERY GOOD RESTAURANT CLOSED &RI WEEKS IN *ULY IN WHICH YOU CAN EXPECT TO PAY AROUND + !NOTHER EXCELLENT PLACE TO EAT IS THE FAMILY RUN $A 6ENTURA 6IA .ICCOLÛ !GGIUNTI CLOSED 3UN EVE -ON PLUS !UG WEEKS IN *AN WHICH IS IN THE SAME PRICE RANGE AS THE &IORENTINO THE SEVEN TWO STAR ROOMS ABOVE THE RESTAURANT ARE THE CHEAPEST IN TOWN 0IZZERIE AND BARS ARE CLUSTERED IN 6IALE ! $IAZ WHILE THE BEST FOOD SHOP IS THE %NOGASTRONOMIA 6IA 0ACIOLI A TREASURE TROVE OF MUSHROOMS TRUFmES CHEESES AND WINES *UST ABOUT THE ONLY TIME YOULL HAVE DIFlCULTY IN lNDING A ROOM IS THE SECOND 3UNDAY IN 3EPTEMBER THE DATE OF THE 0ALIO DELLA "ALESTRA THE RETURN LEG OF THE CROSSBOW COMPETITION AGAINST THE ARCHERS OF 'UBBIO SEE P 4HE SHOOT OUT IS PRECEDED BY SOME VERY mASHY mAG HURLING WHOSE PRACTITIONERS n CLAD IN COSTUMES INSPIRED BY 0IEROS PAINTINGS n SHOW OFF THEIR SKILLS AT VARIOUS OTHER TIMES OF THE YEAR AS WELL &OR DETAILS CALL IN AT THE TOURIST OFlCE ON 0IAZZA
\ 4O 3ANSEPOLCRO THE 0IERO TRAIL
0RACTICALITIES
!2% : : / 02/6 ) .# %
/THER ART TREASURES ARE TO BE FOUND ROUND THE CORNER FROM THE -USEO #IVICO IN THE 2OMANESQUE 'OTHIC $UOMO DAILY AMnNOON nPM 4HE MAIN FEATURE OF THE PLAIN FACADE IS A ROSE WINDOW THATS GLAZED WITH THIN PANELS OF ALABASTER AS ARE THE OTHER EXTERNAL WINDOWS GIVING THE INTERIOR A PLEASANTLY WARM GLOOM )NSIDE THE CHAPEL TO THE LEFT OF THE CHANCEL HOUSES A MIGHTY TENTH CENTURY 6OLTO 3ANTO DEPICTING #HRIST AS A ROBED PATRIARCH 4HE CROWN AND GOWN WITH WHICH THIS #RUCIlX IS DRESSED FOR .OVEMBERS &EAST OF THE 2EDEEMER ARE USUALLY ON SHOW IN THE -USEO #IVICO .EARBY ON THE WALL OF THE LEFT AISLE HANGS AN !SCENSION BY 0ERUGINO RESTORED IN 4HE CHURCH OF 3AN ,ORENZO DAILY AMnPM nPM SHORTER HOURS IN WINTER ON 6IA 3ANTA #ROCE HAS AS ITS MAIN ALTARPIECE A $EPOSITION BY THE -AN NERIST PAINTER 2OSSO &IORENTINO PAINTED WITHIN HALF A CENTURY OF DELLA &RANCES CAS LAST WORKS BUT SEEMING TO BELONG TO ANOTHER WORLD
'ARIBALDI DAILY !PRILn/CT AMnNOON nPM .OVn-ARCH AMnNOON nPM WWWSANSEPOLCRONET TWO MINUTES WALK FROM THE MUSEUM
.ORTH OF !REZZO THE #ASENTINO
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\ .ORTH OF !REZZO THE #ASENTINO
.ORTH OF !REZZO BEYOND THE CITYS TEXTILE FACTORIES LIES THE LUSH UPPER VAL LEY OF THE !RNO A THOROUGHLY AGRICULTURAL AREA KNOWN AS THE #ASENTINO WHOSE UNSHOWY LITTLE TOWNS SEE FEW TOURISTS EVEN THOUGH A LARGE PART OF THE AREA HAS NOW BEEN DESIGNATED A NATIONAL PARK AND EFFORTS ARE BEING MADE TO DIRECT VISITORS TOWARDS THE VARIOUS MUSEUMS DEDICATED TO THE TRADITIONS OF THE #ASENTINO SEE BOX BELOW &ROM "IBBIENA TO 0RATOVECCHIO THE VALLEY IS A BROAD GREEN DISH RUFmED BY LOW HILLS AND BRACKETED BY THE PEAKS OF THE 0RA TOMAGNO ON ONE SIDE AND ON THE OTHER BY THE RIDGE BETWEEN THE !RNO AND THE 4IBER 4HICK WOODLAND OF OAK BEECH AND PINE COVERS MUCH OF THE UPPER SLOPES THE REMNANT OF THE FOREST THAT USED TO COAT MUCH OF THE #ASENTINO $URING THE -EDICI CENTURIES THE TIMBER FROM HERE SUPPLIED THE SHIPYARDS OF 0ISA ,IVORNO AND 'ENOA AS WELL AS THE BUILDING SITES OF 4USCANY &LORENCE DID NOT ALWAYS HAVE TERRITORIAL RIGHTS IN THIS REGION &ROM THE ELEVENTH CENTURY THE NORTHERN PART OF THE #ASENTINO WAS RULED BY THE 'UIDI DYNASTY OF 0OPPI WHO KEPT CONTROL FROM A STRING OF CASTLES n THEIR RUINS STILL LITTER THE HILLS )N THE -IDDLE !GES !REZZO LANDLORD OF THE SOUTHERN #ASENTINO BRAWLED CONSTANTLY WITH &LORENCE FOR POSSESSION OF THIS LUCRATIVE VALLEY !FTER &LORENCE BESTED THE !RETINES AT THE BATTLE OF #AMPALDINO SEE P THE TRA DITIONALLY 'HIBELLINE 'UIDI COUNTS RECOGNIZED THE AUTHORITY OF THE 'UELPH VICTORS AND WERE IN RETURN ALLOWED TO MAINTAIN THEIR POWER BASE HERE THOUGH WITHIN A CENTURY OR SO THE &LORENTINES HAD OUSTED THEM COMPLETELY 4HE SECLU SION OF THE HIGHER GROUND FOSTERED A STRONG MONASTIC TRADITION AS WELL AND THE COMMUNITIES AT #AMÉLDOLI AND AT ,A 6ERNA CONTINUE TO BE IMPORTANT CENTRES FOR THEIR RESPECTIVE ORDERS "Y PUBLIC TRANSPORT THE BEST TARGET FOR A DAY TRIP FROM !REZZO IS 0OPPI ITS CONNECTED TO THE CITY BY BUS AND BY THE PRIVATE ,&) TRAIN LINE WHICH SHARES THE STATE &3 STATION IN !REZZO 4HERE ARE FOURTEEN TRAINS DAILY lVE ON 3UN WHEN
4HE %CO-USEO DEL #ASENTINO 4HE #ASENTINO IS LITTERED WITH TINY MUSEUMS WHICH TOGETHER ARE REFERRED TO AS THE %CO-USEO DEL #ASENTINO n THE #ASENTINO %NVIRONMENTAL -USEUM 5SUALLY CONSISTING OF JUST A COUPLE OF ROOMS OF TOOLS FURNITURE AND PHOTOGRAPHS AND IN SEVERAL CASES OPEN ONLY FOR A FEW HOURS AT THE WEEKEND CHECK OUT WWWECOMUSEOCASENTINOTOSCANAIT FOR FULL DETAILS NONE OF THEM IS LIKELY TO MAKE A REWARDING TARGET FOR A DAYS EXCURSION BUT ALL ARE WORTH AT LEAST A LOOK IF YOU HAPPEN TO BE PASSING BY 4HE LIST IS AS FOLLOWS #APOLONA -USEO DELL!QUA WATER MUSEUM #ASTEL &OCOCAGNO #ENTRO DI $OCUMENTAZIONE 2URALE CENTRE FOR RURAL HERITAGE #ASTEL 3AN .ICCOLÛ -USEO DELLA #IVILTÌ #ASTELLANA MUSEUM OF CASTLE HERITAGE #ETICA -USEO DEL #ARBONAIO CHARCOAL BURNERS MUSEUM #HITIGNANO -USEO DEL #ONTRABBANDO E 0OLVERE DA 3PARO MUSEUM OF GUNPOWDER AND SMUGGLING 3TIA -USEO DELLO 3CI SKIING AND -USEO DEL "OSCO E DELLA -ONTAGNA MUSEUM OF FORESTS AND MOUNTAINS 3UBBIANO -USEO DELLA #IVILTÌ #ONTADINA MUSEUM OF RURAL CULTURE
SERVICES MAY BE REPLACED BY A BUS JOURNEY TIME IS MINUTES 4O STRIKE INTO THE HILLS AND TO VISIT THE MONASTERIES OF ,A 6ERNA AND #AMALDOLI REALLY REQUIRES A CAR UNLESS YOU WANT TO STAY OVERNIGHT BUSES DO RUN FROM "IBBIENA TRAIN STATION SEE BELOW TO "ADIA 0RATAGLIA AND #AMÉLDOLI BUT THEY ARE TOO INFREQUENT TO MAKE A ROUND TRIP FEASIBLE IN A DAY
"IBBIENA
0ARCO .AZIONALE DELLE &ORESTE #ASENTINESI
\ .ORTH OF !REZZO THE #ASENTINO
/NE OF )TALYS NEWEST NATIONAL PARKS THE 0ARCO .AZIONALE DELLE &ORESTE #ASENTI NESI WWWPARKSITPARCONAZIONALEFORCASENTINESI ENCOMPASSES A VAST AREA THAT SPANS 4USCANY AND %MILIA 2OMAGNA AND HAS BEEN CREATED TO CONSERVE THE REGIONS TERRAIN AND WILDLIFE AS WELL AS THE HISTORIC MONUMENTS OF ,A 6ERNA AND #AMÉLDOLI -UCH MONEY AND EFFORT IS BEING PUT INTO PROMOTING THE PARK SO THERES PLENTY OF LITERATURE MAPS AND PAMPHLETS AVAILABLE FROM LOCAL TOURIST OFlCES /F PARTICULAR HELP IS THE 3ERVIZI 4URISTICO !LBERGHIERI PAMPHLET WHICH LISTS ALL ACCOMMODATION WITHIN THE PARK INCLUDING MANY AGRITURISMO POSSIBILITIES 4HE TOURIST OFlCE IN !REZZO SEE P MAKES A GOOD PLACE TO START IF YOU WANT TO PLAN A TRIP BUT THE PARK HEADQUARTERS IS IN 0RATOVECCHIO AT 6IA ' "ROCCHI -ONn4HURS AMnPM nPM &RI AMnPM 7ITHIN 4USCANY THERE ARE OTHER VISITOR CENTRES AT 0ARCO -ARTIRI DELLA ,IBERTÌ IN #HIUSI DELLA 6ERNA NEAR ,A 6ERNA AT 6IA DEL "ORGO IN #AST AGNO D!NDREA KM SOUTHEAST OF 3AN 'ODENZO IN THE -UGELLO AT 0ARCO DEL ,AGO IN ,ONDA ALSO IN THE -UGELLO KM SOUTHEAST OF $ICOMANO AND AT 6IA .AZIONALE A IN "ADIA 0RATAGLIA 4HE "ADIA 0RATAGLIA CENTRE IS OPEN VIRTUALLY ALL YEAR WHEREAS THE OTHERS ARE OPEN ONLY IN SPRING AND SUMMER 4HOUGH YOU GET GOOD VIEWS FROM THE ROADS BETWEEN THESE VILLAGES AND OVER THE BORDER INTO %MILIA 2OMAGNA TO GET TO GRIPS WITH THE WILDERNESS YOU NEED TO WALK 4HE FORESTS ARE CRISS CROSSED BY DOZENS OF PATHS AND TRACKS MOST OF THEM MARKED ON THE 3%,#! MAP #ARTA %SCURSIONISTICA 0ARCO .AZIONALE DELLE &ORESTE #ASENTINESI -ONTE &ALTERONA #AMPIGNA WHICH IS AVAILABLE FROM THE PARK CENTRES AND LOCAL BOOKSHOPS &OR LESS AMBITIOUS WALKERS THERE ARE NINE SPECIALLY MARKED 3ENTIERI NATURA NATURE TRAILS EACH OF WHICH CAN COMFORTABLY BE TACKLED IN A SHORT DAY &OUR OF THESE START IN 4USCANY 4RAIL ,A FAGGETA WHICH BEGINS IN "ADIA 0RATAGLIA AND FOLLOWS A PRETTY VALLEY THROUGH AN ANCIENT BEECH WOOD 4RAIL !LBERI E BOSCO WHICH STARTS NEAR THE #AMÉLDOLI MONASTERY AND WENDS THROUGH THE SURROUNDING WOODS 4RAIL .ATURA STORIA E SPIRITUALITÌ SUL MONTE DI 3AN &RANCESCO WHICH WINDS AROUND -ONTE DELLA 6ERNA FROM #HIUSI DELLA 6ERNA AND 4RAIL ,A CIVILTA DEL CASTAGNO A WALK THAT BEGINS AT #ASTAGNO D!NDREA AND IS DESIGNED TO ILLUMINATE THE CRUCIAL ROLE PLAYED BY THE OAK CHESTNUT CASTAGNO IN THE RURAL ECONOMY OF THIS REGION
!2% : : / 02/6 ) .# %
4HE CHIEF COMMERCIAL TOWN OF THE #ASENTINO IS ")"")%.! A PLACE SWATHED IN STRAGGLING DEVELOPMENT MUCH OF IT CONNECTED WITH TOBACCO PRODUCTION )N THE MODERATELY ATTRACTIVE INNERMOST QUARTER THE MAIN SIGHT IS THE CHURCH OF 3AN ,ORENZO A lFTEENTH CENTURY BUILDING THAT CONTAINS A FAIR QUANTITY OF TERRACOTTA FROM THE DELLA 2OBBIA WORKSHOPS 5P THE TOP END OF TOWN CLOSE TO 0IAZZA 4ARLATI n ITS NAME A SIGN OF ITS LINKS WITH !REZZO SEE P n THE ODDLY SHAPED CHURCH OF 33 )PPOLITO E $ONATO HAS A lNE ALTARPIECE BY "ICCI DI ,ORENZO /NCE YOUVE SEEN THESE THERES NO REASON TO HANG AROUND 4HE TOWN DOES HAVE A USE HOWEVER AS A PUBLIC TRANSPORT LINK TO THE NATIONAL PARK &ROM -ONDAY TO 3ATURDAY THERE ARE EIGHT BUSES DAILY TO "ADIA 0RATAGLIA AND FOUR TO #AMÉLDOLI FROM OUTSIDE THE TRAIN STATION 4HREE BUSES ALSO RUN TO #HIUSI 6ERNA THE NEAREST STOP TO THE MONASTERY OF ,A 6ERNA HALF AN HOURS WALK AWAY
,A 6ERNA
!2% : : / 02/6 ) .# %
\ .ORTH OF !REZZO THE #ASENTINO
)N A PIOUS MEMBER OF THE 'UIDI CLAN #OUNT /RLANDO DONATED TO 3T &RANCIS A PLOT OF LAND AT ,! 6%2.! WWWSANTUARIODELLAVERNACOM KM EAST OF "IBBIENA JUST INSIDE THE MODERN BOUNDARIES OF THE NATIONAL PARK )T WAS AT THIS HERMITAGE ON 3EPTEMBER THAT &RANCIS RECEIVED THE STIGMATA FROM A VISION OF THE CRUCIlED #HRIST A BADGE OF SANCTITY NEVER PREVI OUSLY BESTOWED &RANCISS MOUNTAIN TOP SANCTUARY GREW INTO A MONASTIC VILLAGE WHOSE TEN CHAPELS ARE CONNECTED BY A NETWORK OF CORRIDORS CLOISTERS DORMITORIES AND STONE PATHWAYS 4HOUSANDS OF PILGRIMS COME HERE ANNUALLY SOME OF THEM STAY ING IN THE GUESTHOUSE ADJOINING THE MONKS QUARTERS MOST COMING TO PAY AN HOURS HOMAGE AT THE SITE OF THE MIRACLE ! FEW VISITORS MAKE THE CLIMB CHIEmY TO SEE THE MAGNIlCENT CERAMICS BY !NDREA DELLA 2OBBIA BUT UNLIKE AT THE BASILICA AT !SSISI SECULAR SIGHTSEERS DONT OBSCURE THE PURPOSE OF THE PLACE 4HE SANCTUARY IS OPEN EVERY DAY FROM AM TO PM THOUGH IN WINTER THE ROAD IS SOMETIMES CLOSED BY SNOW 2ELICS OF THE SAINT n HIS WALKING STICK BELT DRINKING GLASS n ARE DISPLAYED IN THE lFTEENTH CENTURY BASILICA WHERE THERES A GLORIOUS !SCENSION BY DELLA 2OB BIA WHOSE OTHER MASTERPIECES ARE THE FOCAL POINTS OF THE #HIESA DELLE 3TIMMATE BUILT ON THE SPOT WHERE &RANCIS RECEIVED THE STIGMATA AND THE #APPELLA DI 3ANTA -ARIA DEGLI !NGELI (ALFWAY ALONG THE CORRIDOR LEADING TO THE FORMER n A WALKWAY PAINTED WITH MODERN SCENES OF THE STORY OF 3T &RANCIS n A SMALL DOOR OPENS INTO A GASH IN THE CRAG WHERE &RANCIS USED TO SLEEP !CCORDING TO &RANCISCAN ORTHODOXY THE ROCKS AT ,A 6ERNA SPLIT APART AT THE MOMENT OF #HRISTS DEATH 4HE ROUTE ALSO PASSES THE MARGINALLY MORE COMFORTABLE CELL IN WHICH 3T !NTHONY OF 0ADUA STAYED IN 4HE 3ASSO 3PICCO REACHED BY A mIGHT OF STEPS NEAR THE CORRIDOR WAS &RANCISS PLACE OF MEDITATION ! PATH THROUGH THE FOREST ABOVE THE SANCTUARY LEADS TO THE SUMMIT OF ,A 0ENNA M FROM WHERE THERES A PANORAMA OF THE #ASENTINO MEADOWS IN ONE DIRECTION AND THE SAVAGE SERRATIONS OF THE !PENNINES IN THE OTHER 4HE DRIVE FROM ,A 6ERNA TO 3ANSEPOLCRO IS A FABULOUS DESCENT INTO THE UPPER 4IBER VALLEY THE VALLEY ITSELF HOWEVER IS A MESS OF LIGHT INDUSTRY AND QUARRIES
0OPPI 0/00) KM NORTH OF "IBBIENA AND PLAINLY VISIBLE FROM THERE IS SITED HIGH ABOVE THE BUS AND TRAIN TERMINALS )F YOU EMERGE AT THESE IN THE MODERN LOWER SUBURB OF 0ONTE A 0OPPI FOLLOW 6IA $ANTE !LIGHIERI A COBBLED SHORT CUT WHICH LEADS TO THE UPPER TOWN IN TEN MINUTES WALK 4HE OLD TOWN IS NOT MUCH MORE THAN A COUPLE OF TINY SQUARES AND A NAR ROW ARCADED MAIN STREET 6IA #AVOUR FOR MUCH OF ITS LENGTH BUT IT IS LENT A MONUMENTAL ASPECT BY THE #ASENTINOS CHIEF LANDMARK THE #ASTELLO DEI #ONTI 'UIDI -ARCH n*UNE 3EPT n/CT DAILY AMnPM *ULY !UG DAILY AMnPM REST OF YEAR 4HURSn3UN AMnPM + "UILT FOR THE 'UIDI LORDS IN THE S ITS DESIGN IS BASED CLOSELY ON &LORENCES 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO AND ITS LIKELY THAT !RNOLFO DI #AMBIO WAS ONE OF THE ARCHITECTS HERE AS WELL 4HE DEEP COURT YARD WITH ITS WOODEN LANDINGS AND BEAUTIFUL STAIRCASES IS THE MOST ATTRACTIVE BIT OF SECULAR ARCHITECTURE IN THE #ASENTINO n THE STONE CARYATID AT THE HEAD OF THE STAIRS IS A PORTRAIT OF #OUNT 3IMONE DI "ATTIFOLLE FOR WHOM THE CASTLE WAS BUILT AND WHOSE GHOST IS SAID TO HAUNT THE PLACE )N THE CELLARS THERES A DISPLAY ON WARFARE AND FORTIlCATIONS IN THE ERA OF THE 'UIDI FEATURING A TEEMING MODEL OF THE BATTLE OF #AMPALDINO SEE OPPOSITE PLUS A DISMEMBERED KNIGHT UNDER THE mOORBOARDS FOR ADDED IMPACT 5PSTAIRS A lNE OLD LIBRARY HAS CHANGING DISPLAYS
!2% : : / 02/6 ) .# %
OF BOOKS AND MANUSCRIPTS AND THE TOP mOOR CHAPEL IS FRESCOED WITH SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF THE 6IRGIN *OHN THE "APTIST AND *OHN THE %VANGELIST PAINTED IN THE S BY 4ADDEO 'ADDI 9OU GET A lNE VIEW FROM THE WINDOWS ON THIS STOREY BUT THE BEST VANTAGE POINT IS THE SUMMIT OF THE TOWER A STEP ASCENT FOR WHICH THERES AN EXTRA + CHARGE !T THE UPPER END OF 6IA #AVOUR STANDS THE DOMED /RATORIO DEL -ADONNA CONTRO IL -ORBO RAISED IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY TO GIVE THANKS TO -ARY FOR n AS THE NAME TELLS YOU n DELIVERING THE TOWN FROM PLAGUE !T ITS LOWER END THE STREET CLIMAXES AT THE MAGNIlCENT TWELFTH CENTURY "ADIA DI 3AN &EDELE DAILY AMnNOON nPM WHICH CONTAINS AN ARRAY OF AT LEAST COMPETENT PAINTINGS BY SOME OBSCURE SIXTEENTH CENTURY ARTISTS AND THE SPLENDID RELIQUARY BUST OF 3T 4ORELLO A 6ALLOMBROSAN MONK WHO WAS BORN IN 0OPPI IN AND SPENT THE LAST SIX DECADES OF HIS LIFE IMMURED IN A CELL HERE !T 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA RIGHT BY THE CASTLE IS THE TOWNS LONE HOTEL THE VERY PLEASANT AND INEXPENSIVE THREE STAR #ASENTINO WWW ALBERGOCASENTINOIT WITH A NICE COURTYARD GARDEN A BAR AND A RESTAURANT CLOSED 7ED THATS VERY POPULAR WITH LOCALS 3HOULD IT BE FULL OR SHUT ON THE NIGHT YOURE IN TOWN YOU CAN GET A GOOD MEAL AT THE NEARBY !NTICA #ANTINA 6IA ,APUCCI CLOSED -ON ! SHORT DISTANCE NORTH OF 0OPPI WHERE THE ROAD SPLITS IS THE SITE OF THE "ATTLE OF #AMPALDINO WHERE ON *UNE THE &LORENTINE 'UELPHS DEFEATED THE !REZZO 'HIBELLINES TO ESTABLISH &LORENCES PRE EMINENCE IN THE POWER STRUGGLES OF 4USCANY 7ARFARE IN )TALY DURING THIS ERA WAS CHIEmY CONDUCTED BY RELATIVELY SMALL COMPANIES OF HIRED TROOPS WHO WOULD TYPICALLY HOLD A TOWN TO RANSOM
\ .ORTH OF !REZZO THE #ASENTINO
5 0OPPI EMERGING FROM MORNING MIST
AND THEN MAYBE AFTER A BIT OF SKIRMISHING DEPART WITH THEIR CASH 0ITCHED BATTLES ON THE SCALE OF #AMPALDINO WERE A RARITY SOME MEN FOUGHT HERE AND NEARLY OF THEM WERE KILLED /NE WHO SURVIVED WAS $ANTE THEN YEARS OLD ! COLUMN RIGHT ON THE JUNCTION MARKS THE BATTLE SITE
"ADIA 0RATAGLIA
!2% : : / 02/6 ) .# %
"!$)! 02!4!',)! WWWBADIAPRATAGLIACOM KM NORTHEAST OF "IB BIENA AND KM EAST OF #AMÉLDOLI HAS NO GREAT ATTRACTIONS IN ITSELF OTHER THAN ITS 2OMANESQUE PARISH CHURCH BUT ITS A GOOD BASE FOR WALKING IN THE 0ARCO .AZIONALE SEE P AS IT MARKS THE STARTING POINT OF SEVERAL TRAILS HAS ONE OF THE PARKS MAIN VISITOR CENTRES AND HAS PLENTIFUL ACCOMMODATION THOUGH MANY HOTELS HERE ARE CLOSED IN .OVEMBER AND $ECEMBER 4HE CHEAPEST HOTEL IS THE ONE STAR ,A 1UERCIA 6IA !NDRIA TWO STARS INCLUDE THE 'IARDINO 6IA .AZIONALE HOTELGIARDINO TINIT THE "ELLAVISTA 6IA .AZIONALE BELLAVISTA BADIAPRATAGLIACOM AND ,A 4ORRE 6IA 3ASSOPIANO 4HE MOST COMFORT ABLE OPTION IS THE THREE STAR "OSCO 6ERDE 6IA .AZIONALE HOTELBOSCOVERDE BADIAPRATAGLIAIT 4HERE IS ALSO A HOSTEL THE #ASANOVA *ULYn/CT
#AMÉLDOLI
\ .ORTH OF !REZZO THE #ASENTINO
/NE OF THE BEST BASES FOR THE NATIONAL PARK IS #!-,$/,) JUST OVER KM NORTHEAST OF 0OPPI WHERE IN 3T 2OMUALDO AKA 3T 2UMBOLD FOUNDED AN ESPECIALLY ASCETIC ORDER OF THE "ENEDICTINES .OTWITHSTANDING THE SEVERITY OF ITS ORDER THIS SYLVAN RETREAT BECAME A FAVOURITE WITH NON MONASTIC PENITENTS SO MUCH SO THAT A SECOND SITE WAS OPENED UP TO ACCOMMODATE VISITORS AND TO ADMINISTER THE WOODLANDS THAT 2OMUALDO HAD BEEN GRANTED 4HIS LOWER COMPLEX HAS BEEN MUCH REBUILT AND THE ONLY POINT OF INTEREST IS ITS SIXTEENTH CENTURY PHARMACY WHICH NOW SELLS HERBAL PRODUCTS /N SUMMER WEEKENDS LOTS OF PEOPLE COME OUT HERE FOR A POSTPRANDIAL SHOP FOLLOWED BY A STROLL THROUGH THE FOREST UP TO THE %REMO THE MORE FUNDAMEN TALIST WING OF THE MONASTERY n WHICH IS AROUND KM AWAY UP THE MOUNTAIN 4HESE DAYS BOTH MEN AND WOMEN CAN VISIT BUT NO ONE IS ALLOWED NEAR THE LIVING QUARTERS -ORE STRENUOUS WALKS ARE POSSIBLE FROM THE %REMO THE COUNTRY TO THE NORTH IS VERY WILD OR FROM #AMÉLDOLI VILLAGE ITSELF n PATHS WORTH CONSIDERING ARE THOSE TO "ADIA 0RATAGLIA TO THE EAST AND 0OGGIO -USCHIOSO TO THE WEST 4HERE ARE TWO ONE STAR HOTELS THE #AMÉLDOLI 6IA #AMALDOLI AND ,A &ORESTA 6IA #AMÉLDOLI n THE LATTER HAS SOME EVEN CHEAPER ROOMS WITHOUT PRIVATE BATHROOM AND A DECENT RESTAURANT CLOSED 7ED &OR MORE COMFORT THERES THE THREE STAR )L 2USTICHELLO 6IA DEL #ORNIOLO )N THE NEARBY HAMLET OF 0UCINI YOULL lND THE 0ARCO 0UCINI CAMPSITE *UNEn3EPT
0RATOVECCHIO AND 3TIA
02!4/6%##()/ THE BIRTHPLACE OF 0AOLO 5CCELLO RETAINS SOME OLD ARCADED STREETS BUT THE MAJOR ATTRACTIONS ARE OUTSIDE THE TOWN ON A NARROW LITTLE LANE TO THE WEST OF THE MAIN ROAD 0IEVE DI 2OMENA THOUGH PATCHED UP A FEW TIMES SINCE ITS FOUNDATION IN THE TWELFTH CENTURY IS A WONDERFULLY PRESERVED 2OMANESQUE CHURCH WITH SPLENDID CAPITALS AND A BEEHIVE SHAPED SACRISTY !N INSCRIPTION ON THE lRST COLUMN TO THE RIGHT IDENTIlES THE SCULPTOR AS THE PARISH
4RAVELLING SOUTH FROM !REZZO YOU ENTER THE 6ALDICHIANA PROSPEROUS AGRICUL TURAL COUNTRY THAT NURTURES THE #HIANINA BREED OF CATTLE SOURCE OF THE MUCH PRIZED &LORENTINE BISTECCA !S WITH THE -AREMMA THIS FORMER SWAMPLAND WAS lRST DRAINED BY THE %TRUSCANS WHOSE WORK WAS ALLOWED TO UNRAVEL IN MEDIEVAL TIMES WHEN THE ENCROACHING MARSHES DROVE THE FARMERS OF THE REGION BACK UP TO THE HILL TOWNS /NLY IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY WITH THE RECLAMATION SCHEMES OF THE ,ORRAINE DUKES OF 4USCANY DID THE 6ALDICHIANA BECOME FERTILE AGAIN )TS AN UNDERWHELMING LANDSCAPE BUT ITS mATNESS DOES AT LEAST MEAN THAT THE TOWNS ON ITS mANKS n OF WHICH #ORTONA IS THE MOST INSPIRING n HAVE VERY LONG SIGHT LINES )N CONTRAST TO THE #ASENTINO PUBLIC TRANSPORT IS QUITE GOOD &REQUENT 2OME BOUND TRAINS FROM &LORENCE AND !REZZO RUN DOWN THE VALLEY MOST OF THEM STOPPING AT #AMUCIA OR 4ERØNTOLA OR BOTH THE ACCESS POINTS FOR #ORTONA "USES FROM !REZZO SERVE THE INTERVENING VILLAGES WHILE SERVICES FROM #ORTONA COVER ROUTES ACROSS THE VALLEY
\ 3OUTH OF !REZZO THE 6ALDICHIANA
3OUTH OF !REZZO THE 6ALDICHIANA
!2% : : / 02/6 ) .# %
PRIEST !LBERICUS ON THE SECOND PILLAR ON THE LEFT ANOTHER STATES THAT THE WORK WAS COMPLETED DURING A FAMINE IN #LOSE BY ARE THE PRECARIOUS BUT STILL INTIMIDATING RUINS OF THE #ASTELLO DI 2OMENA CLOSED TO THE PUBLIC BUILT BY THE 'UIDI COUNTS AND ONCE THE MIGHTIEST CASTLE IN THE #ASENTINO $ANTE WAS A GUEST HERE AND IN THE )NFERNO HE MENTIONS ONE OF ITS FORMER TENANTS !DAMO DA "RESCIA WHOSE COUNTERFEIT COINS WREAKED SUCH HAVOC WITH THE LOCAL ECONOMY THAT THE ENRAGED &LORENTINES ROASTED HIM ALIVE )F YOURE IN TOWN BE CERTAIN TO DROP INTO ,/STERIA DI 'IOVANNI 6IA 2OMA CLOSED 4UES 'IOVANNIS SPECIALITY A SANDWICH MADE FROM LOCAL HAM SMOKED OVER A lRE OF JUNIPER WOOD MAKES A DELICIOUS SNACK 4HE ,&) RAIL LINE lNISHES KM ON AT 34)! THE NEAREST TOWN TO THE SOURCE OF THE !RNO WHICH RISES TO THE NORTH ON -ONTE &ALTERONA 4HE HILLS AROUND 3TIA ARE DOTTED WITH NATURAL SPRINGS AND IN THE TOWNS PARK n THE 0ARCO DEL 0ALAGIO &IORENTINO n A MODERN SPA COMPLEX HAS BEEN BUILT AROUND THE &ONTE DI #AL CEDONIA A LONG ESTABLISHED SOURCE THAT NOWADAYS PROVIDES ONE OF )TALYS BEST KNOWN BOTTLED MINERAL WATERS 4HE PORTICOED 0IAZZA 4ANUCCI IS THE HEART AND SUMMIT OF THE MEDIEVAL TOWN WHERE THE STEEP ROOFS GIVE THE PLACE AN ALPINE FEEL 3TIAS CHIEF MONUMENT THE 2OMANESQUE 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA !SSUNTA HOUSES A -ADONNA BY !NDREA DELLA 2OBBIA AND A TRIPTYCH BY "ICCI DI ,ORENZO 3TIA HAS A COUPLE OF REASONABLY PRICED HOTELS THE THREE STAR &ALTERONA ON 0IAZZA 4ANUCCI ALBERGOFALTERNOA TECHNETIT AND THE TWO STAR &ORESTA 6IA 2OMA WHICH HAS A FEW DOUBLES WITHOUT PRIVATE BATHROOM AT A DISCOUNT OF AROUND + 4HE &ALTERONA HAS A DECENT RESTAURANT !T 3TIA THE ROAD DIVIDES TO THE WEST OF -ONTE &ALTERONA ONE BRANCH PASSES ANOTHER 'UIDI FORTRESS AND THE FRESCOED CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA DELLE 'RAZIE ON ITS WAY TO THE 3IEVE VALLEY SEE P THE OTHER TO THE EAST CROSSES THE 0ASSO LA #ALLA THEN DROPS DOWN INTO %MILIA 2OMAGNA
#ORTONA &ROM THE VALLEY mOOR A lVE KILOMETRE ROAD WINDS UP THROUGH TERRACES OF VINES AND OLIVES TO THE HILL TOWN OF #/24/.! WHOSE HEIGHTS SURVEY A VAST DOMAIN THE 6ALDICHIANA STRETCHING WESTWARDS WITH ,AGO 4RASIMENO VISIBLE OVER THE LOW
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!RRIVAL INFORMATION AND ACCOMMODATION
(OTELS !THENS 6IA 3 !NTONIO 4HIS ROOM ONE STAR IS THE TOWNS ONE BUDGET OPTION OTHER THAN THE HOSTEL SEE OVERLEAF #LOSED IN WINTER )L &ALCONIERE 3AN -ARTINO A "OCENA WWWILFALCONIERECOM ,OCATED KM AWAY ON THE 33 TOWARDS !REZZO THIS INTIMATE FOUR STAR HAS NINETEEN ROOMS ALL OF THEM BEAUTIFULLY PRESENTED SOME FRESCOED AND TWO SWIMMING POOLS ONE IN THE LUSCIOUS GARDEN THE
OTHER AMID THE HOTELS VINEYARDS AND OLIVE GROVES 4HE RESTAURANT IS JUSTLY CELEBRATED AND LIKE SEVERAL OTHER TOP RANK 4USCAN HOTEL RESTAURANTS THE &ALCO NIERE OFFERS RESIDENTIAL COOKERY COURSES $OUBLES START AT A LITTLE UNDER+ AND GO UP TO + )TALIA 6IA 'HIBELLINA WWW PLANHOTELCOMHITALIA ! DECENT THREE STAR OCCUPY ING A RATHER BRISKLY RENOVATED lFTEENTH CENTURY HOUSE WITH ROOMS AND A PANORAMIC TERRACE )TS NOT THE MOST ATTRACTIVE HOTEL IN #ORTONA BUT THE LOCATION n VERY NEAR 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA
\ 3OUTH OF !REZZO THE 6ALDICHIANA
#ORTONA IS EASILY VISITED AS A DAY TRIP FROM !REZZO BUT IN MOST WAYS ITS THE MORE PLEASANT OF THE TWO IN WHICH TO SPEND THE NIGHT 4HERE ARE HOURLY ,&) BUSES BETWEEN THE TWO TOWNS AND STOPPING TRAINS FROM !REZZO CALL AT #AMU CIA #ORTONA STATION KM AWAY FROM WHERE A SHUTTLE ROUGHLY EVERY MIN TAKES TEN MINUTES TO RUN UP TO THE OLD TOWN BUY TICKETS AT THE STATION BAR 4HE FAST &LORENCEn2OME TRAINS STOP AT 4ERØNTOLA KM SOUTH WHICH IS ALSO SERVED BY A SHUTTLE ROUGHLY EVERY HOUR MINUTES TO #ORTONAS 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI 4ERØNTOLA IS THE STATION TO GET OFF AT IF YOU ARE APPROACHING FROM 5MBRIA 4HE CENTRE IS CLOSED TO TRAFlC SO IF YOURE DRIVING YOU SHOULD USE ONE OF THE FREE CAR PARKS ON THE PERIPHERY IN 0IAZZA DEL -ERCATO IN 0IAZZA -AZZINI BY 0ORTA #OLONIA ON 6IALE #ESARI "ATTISTI OR IN FRONT OF 3ANTA -ARGHERITA BELOW THE &ORTEZZA 4HE TOURIST OFlCE AT 6IA .AZIONALE -AYn3EPT -ONn3AT AMnPM n PM 3UN AMnPM /CTn!PRIL -ONn&RI AMnPM nPM 3AT AMnPM WWWCORTONAWEBNET CAN PROVIDE LEAmETS AND HELP OUT WITH ACCOMMODATION 4HERES A HOSTEL AND HALF A DOZEN HOTELS IN THE HISTORIC CENTRE AS WELL AS SOME UPMARKET OPTIONS OUT OF TOWN
!2% : : / 02/6 ) .# %
HILLS TO THE SOUTH ! SCATTERING OF %TRUSCAN TOMBS ASIDE IT IS THE MEDIEVAL PERIOD THAT DOMINATES THE STEEP STREETS OF #ORTONA LIMITATIONS OF SPACE HAVE CONlNED ALMOST ALL LATER DEVELOPMENT TO THE LOWER SUBURB OF #AMUCIA WHICH IS WHERE THE APPROACH ROAD BEGINS %VEN WITHOUT ITS MONUMENTS AND ART TREASURES THIS WOULD BE A GOOD PLACE TO REST UP WITH DECENT HOTELS EXCELLENT RESTAURANTS AND AN AMAZING VIEW AT NIGHT WITH THE VILLAGES OF SOUTHERN 4USCANY TWINKLING LIKE SHIPS LIGHTS ON A DARK SEA )N RECENT YEARS #ORTONAS TOURIST TRAFlC HAS INCREASED MARKEDLY IN THE WAKE OF &RANCES -AYES 5NDER THE 4USCAN 3UN AND "ELLA 4USCANY BOOKS THAT CONTINUE TO ENTICE COACHLOADS OF HER MAINLY !MERICAN READERS TO THE PLACE WHERE -AYES REALIZED THE EX PAT DREAM OF THE GOOD LIFE IN THE LAND OF QUIRKY AND LIFE AFlRMING ,ATINS !CCORDINGLY IF YOURE THINKING OF VISITING ANY TIME BETWEEN %ASTER AND LATE 3EPTEMBER YOUD BE WELL ADVISED TO BOOK YOUR ACCOMMODATION IN ADVANCE &OLKLORE HAS IT THAT #ORTONA WAS FOUNDED BY $ARDANUS LATER TO ESTABLISH THE CITY OF 4ROY AND GIVE HIS NAME TO THE $ARDANELLES 7HATEVER ITS PRECISE ORIGINS THERE WAS ALREADY A SIZEABLE 5MBRIAN SETTLEMENT HERE WHEN THE %TRUSCANS TOOK OVER IN THE EIGHTH CENTURY "# !BOUT FOUR HUNDRED YEARS LATER IT PASSED TO THE 2OMANS AND REMAINED A SIGNIlCANT 2OMAN CENTRE UNTIL ITS DESTRUCTION BY THE 'OTHS "Y THE ELEVENTH CENTURY IT HAD BECOME A FREE COMUNE CONSTANTLY AT LOGGERHEADS WITH 0ERUGIA AND !REZZO IN THE !RETINES DESTROYED #ORTONA BUT THE TOWN SOON REVIVED UNDER THE PATRONAGE OF 3IENA )T CHANGED HANDS YET AGAIN AT THE START OF THE lFTEENTH CENTURY WHEN IT WAS APPROPRIATED BY THE +ING DOM OF .APLES AND THEN SOLD OFF TO THE &LORENTINES WHO NEVER LET GO
n MAKES THE PRICE MORE THAN REASONABLE
3ABRINA 6IA 2OMA INFO CORTONASTORICACOM 7ITH JUST EIGHT ROOMS #ORTONAS OTHER THREE STAR IS CONSIDERABLY SMALLER THAN ITS RIVAL THE NEARBY )TALIA AND IS A SHADE CHEAPER AS WELL 3AN ,UCA 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI WWWSANLUCACORTONACOM 4HE FOUR STAR 3AN ,UCA IS A CHARMLESS SIXTY BEDROOM MODERN BUILD ING BUT ITS NEXT DOOR TO A GOOD RESTAURANT AND MANY OF ITS ROOMS HAVE LOVELY VIEWS OVER THE 6AL DICHIANA )TS PRICES ARE LOW FOR A FOUR STAR TOO
3AN -ICHELE 6IA 'UELFA WWWHOTELSANMICHELE NET 4HE MOST LUXURIOUS IN TOWN CHOICE THIS HAND SOME lFTY ROOM FOUR STAR HAS BEEN CONVERTED FROM A RAMBLING MEDIEVAL TOWN HOUSE
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\ 3OUTH OF !REZZO THE 6ALDICHIANA
6ILLA -ARSILI 6IA #ESARE "ATTISTI WWWVILLAMARSILINET 3ITU ATED A SHORT DISTANCE DOWN THE SLOPE FROM 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI THIS CAPACIOUS FOUR STAR n OCCUPYING AN EIGHTEENTH CENTURY VILLA n LOOKS UNEXCEPTIONAL FROM THE OUTSIDE BUT THE ROOMS ARE NICELY lTTED OUT AND COMMAND A VERY PHOTOGENIC VIEW OF THE VALLEY
(OSTEL /STELLO 3AN -ARCO 6IA ' -AFFEI WWWCORTONAHOSTELCOM #LEAN AND SPACIOUS () HOSTEL SITUATED IN THE HEART OF THE TOWN IN AN OLD MONASTERY WITH FANTASTIC VIEWS FROM THE DORMITORIES AND FRIENDLY MANAGEMENT $ORM BEDS + DOUBLES AND FAMILY ROOMS AVAILABLE /PEN MID -ARCH TO MID /CT RECEPTION OPEN DAILY nAM PMnMIDNIGHT
4HE 4OWN
4HE BUS TERMINUS IS IN 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI FROM WHERE THE ONLY HORIZONTAL STREET IN TOWN AND THUS THE VENUE FOR THE PASSEGGIATA 6IA .AZIONALE LEADS INTO 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA WHERE THE TALL STAIRCASE OF THE SQUAT CASTELLATED 0ALAZZO DEL #OMUNE IS THE GRANDSTAND FROM WHICH THE RAGAZZI APPRAISE THE WORLD AS IT GOES BY 4HE 3ATURDAY MARKET mOWS THROUGH NEIGHBOURING 0IAZZA 3IGNORELLI AND 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO ON THE lRST OF WHICH YOULL lND THE %TRUSCAN MUSEUM 4HIS AND 0IAZZA DEL $UOMOS $IOCESAN MUSEUM ARE ESSENTIAL PORTS OF CALL BEFORE HEADING THROUGH THE UPPER TOWN TOWARDS THE &ORTEZZA -EDICEA -!%#
/NE mANK OF THE 0ALAZZO DEL #OMUNE FORMS A SIDE OF 0IAZZA 3IGNORELLI NAMED AFTER THE ARTIST ,UCA 3IGNORELLI #ORTONAS MOST FAMOUS SON n AS IS THE DECOROUSLY PEELING NINETEENTH CENTURY THEATRE CINEMA !CROSS THE ROAD FROM THE THEATRE THE HULKING 0ALAZZO #ASALI ITS FACADE LIKE A ROCKFACE WITH WINDOWS IS THE HOME OF THE TOWNS MAIN BIG MUSEUM WHICH IN LATE WAS REBORN AS THE -USEO DELL!CCADEMIA %TRUSCA E DELLA #ITTÌ DI #ORTONA n OR -!%# FOR SHORT !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM .OVn-ARCH 4UESn3UN AMnPM + )N ADDITION TO THE SNAPPY ACRONYM THE MUSEUM REOPENED WITH A CONSIDERABLY INCREASED ENTRY CHARGE PRESUMABLY TO COVER THE COSTS OF THE STATE OF THE ART SUBTERRANEAN SPACES IN WHICH -!%# CHARTS THE DEVELOPMENT OF #ORTONA FROM THE EARLIEST RECORDED SETTLEMENTS TO 2OMAN TIMES n OR RATHER WOULD DO IF THE REFURBISHMENT HAD GONE ACCORDING TO PLAN )N THE EVENT WORK IS STILL FAR FROM lNISHED ON ONE WHOLE mOOR OF THE BELOW GROUND AREA BUT THE PARTS THAT HAVE BEEN COMPLETED ARE CERTAINLY IMPRESSIVE GIVING A WELL PRESENTED SURVEY OF #ORTONAS EVOLUTION IN THE %TRUSCAN AND 2OMAN PERIODS 3OME SPECTACULAR SPECIMENS OF %TRUSCAN GOLD TURQUOISE AND CRYSTAL JEWELLERY CATCH THE EYE IN THE lRST ROOMS ALONG WITH ARMOUR WEAPONRY AND MISCELLANE OUS GRAVE GOODS EXCAVATED FROM TOMBS IN THE VALLEY BELOW #ORTONA 3PECIAL PROMINENCE IS GIVEN TO THE 4ABULA #ORTONENSIS A FRAGMENTARY BRONZE PLAQUE INSCRIBED WITH A LEGAL TEXT IN THE %TRUSCAN LANGUAGE "EYOND THAT YOURE INTO THE 2OMAN SECTION WHICH IS DOMINATED BY lNDS n MAINLY MOSAICS AND TERRACOTTA n FROM A LARGE VILLA KM SOUTH OF #ORTONA &OUNDED IN BY THREE BROTHERS FROM THE 6ENUTI FAMILY THE !CCADEMIA %TRUSCA WAS ONE OF THE WORLDS lRST ACADEMIES DEVOTED TO ARCHEOLOGY AND SUCH WAS ITS PRESTIGE THAT 6OLTAIRE AND -ONTESQUIEU WERE BOTH ENROLLED AS MEMBERS
6IA #ASALI LINKS 0IAZZA 3IGNORELLI WITH 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO WHERE YOU MIGHT NOT REALIZE THAT THE CATHEDRAL IS IN FRONT OF YOU AS ALL YOU SEE ON ENTERING THE SQUARE IS THE WELL SCRUBBED ARCADE ALONG ITS mANK 4HOUGH REBUILT IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY THE $UOMO DAILY AMnPM nPM RETAINS ELEMENTS OF ITS 2OMANESQUE PRECURSOR IN ITS mAKING FACADE THE INTERIOR IS RATHER CHILLY AND GREY BUT THERES A 0IETRO DA #ORTONA .ATIVITY ON THE THIRD ALTAR ON THE LEFT AND A POSSIBLE !NDREA DEL 3ARTO AN !SSUMPTION TO THE LEFT OF THE HIGH ALTAR 4HE CHURCH THAT USED TO FACE THE $UOMO NOW FORMS PART OF THE -USEO $IOCESANO SAME HOURS AS -!%# + A TINY BUT HIGH QUALITY COLLECTION OF 2ENAISSANCE ART PLUS A lNE 2OMAN SARCOPHAGUS CARVED WITH lGHTING CEN TAURS 0REDICTABLY ,UCA 3IGNORELLI FEATURES STRONGLY THOUGH ONLY TWO WORKS n ,AMENTATION AND 4HE #OMMUNION OF THE !POSTLES n ARE UNE QUIVOCALLY HIS SEVEN OTHERS ARE ATTRIBUTED TO HIM AND HIS SCHOOL /UTSTANDING PAINTINGS FROM 3ASSETTA A TRIPTYCH OF THE -ADONNA DELL5MILITÌ WITH 3AINTS FROM "ARTOLOMEO DELLA 'ATTA AN !SSUMPTION AND 0IETRO ,ORENZETTI A #RUCIlX FROM n ARE ALSO ON SHOW BUT NONE OF THESE MEASURES UP TO &RA !NGELICO REPRESENTED BY A -ADONNA #HILD AND 3AINTS AND AN EXQUISITE !NNUNCIATION 0AINTED DURING &RA !NGELICOS TEN YEARS AT #ORTONAS MONASTERY OF 3AN $OMENICO THE LATTER HAS A COURTLY !DAM AND %VE BEING EXPELLED FROM %DEN IN THE BACKGROUND THE BRUISED SKY CONTRASTING WITH THE DAZZLE OF THE ANGELS WINGS
\ 3OUTH OF !REZZO THE 6ALDICHIANA
4HE $UOMO AND -USEO $IOCESANO
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4HE !CCADEMIA IS STILL IN EXISTENCE AND ITS HUGE COLLECTION OF ANTIQUITIES AND ART WORKS lLLS THE UPPER mOORS OF THE MUSEUM WHERE n AS YOUD EXPECT n THERES A GOOD DEAL MORE %TRUSCAN MATERIAL ON SHOW MOST NOTABLY AN %TRUSCAN BRONZE LAMP FROM THE FOURTH CENTURY "# WHICH IS HONOURED WITH A ROOM TO ITSELF 4HIS HIGHLY COMPLICATED OBJECT n SHOWING A GORGONS HEAD SURROUNDED BY A CIRCLE OF ALTERNATING STAYR LIKE MALE lGURES AND FEMALE SIRENS n WAS CAST AS A SINGLE PIECE AN EXTRAORDINARY TECHNICAL ACHIEVEMENT %TRUSCAN AND LATER BRONZE lGURINES NONE OF THEM LABELLED lLL AN AVENUE OF CABINETS IN THE MIDDLE OF THE MAIN HALL SURROUNDED BY SOME FAIRLY UNDISTINGUISHED PICTURES THOUGH THERES WORK BY 0IETRO DA #ORTONA 3IGNORELLI AND 0INTURICCHIO IN AMONGST THE DROSS !NOTHER LARGE ROOM IS CENTRED ON AN EXTRAORDINARY PIECE OF FRILLY PORCELAIN KNOWN AS THE 4EMPIO DI 'INORI MADE IN ITS COVERED WITH PORTRAITS OF MEMBERS OF THE -EDICI CLAN 4HE BRONZE MEDALS FROM WHICH THE POR CELAIN IMAGES WERE DERIVED ARE DISPLAYED IN A WALL CASE ALONG WITH PORTRAIT MEDALS BY 0ISANELLO A PIONEER OF THIS GENRE !LSO ON THIS mOOR YOULL lND A PAIR OF TERRESTRIAL AND CELESTIAL GLOBES MADE IN THE S BY THE EMINENT ASTRONOMER AND $OMINICAN ABBOT 3ILVESTRO -ORONCELLI A CLUTCH OF PICTURES BY THE 6ENETIAN ARTIST 'IAMBATTISTA 0IAZZETTA A STACK OF 2OMAN INSCRIPTIONS FROM THE COLLECTION OF THE 6ENUTI BROTHERS AND n AT THE END n ONE OF THE MOST ALLURING ITEMS IN THE WHOLE MUSEUM A 2OMAN PAINTING ON SLATE OF THE -USE 0OLIMNIA /N THE TOP mOOR YOU CAN ADMIRE A SMALL ARRAY OF %GYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES AND THE VAST OLD LIBRARY OF THE !CADEMY WHERE THE lRST MEMBERS HELD THEIR MEETINGS "ACK DOWNSTAIRS ON A MEZZANINE LEVEL THE PAINTER 'INO 3EV ERINI ANOTHER NATIVE OF #ORTONA GETS A ROOM TO HIMSELF AT THE END /NCE AN ACOLYTE OF THE &UTURIST lREBRAND &ILIPPO -ARINETTI 3EVERINI WAS NOTHING IF NOT VERSATILE AS YOULL SEE IN THIS SMALL COLLECTION WHERE JAGGED QUASI #UBIST PRINTS HANG ALONGSIDE SOME VERY CONVENTIONAL PORTRAITS INCLUDING HIS BEST KNOWN IMAGE -ATERNITY n THE SORT OF THING THAT -ARINETTI WOULD HAVE CONSIGNED TO THE mAMES
4HE UPPER TOWN
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\ 3OUTH OF !REZZO THE 6ALDICHIANA
4O GET THE FULL TASTE OF #ORTONA TAKE 6IA 3ANTUCCI FROM 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA AND THEN CLAMBER ALONG 6IA "ERRETTINI AT THE NEAR END OF WHICH STANDS THE CRUSTY AND ANCIENT CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCESCO n DESIGNED BY 3T &RANCISS DISCIPLE "ROTHER %LIAS THIS WAS THE lRST &RANCISCAN CHURCH TO BE BUILT OUTSIDE !SSISI AFTER THE DEATH OF &RANCIS HIMSELF )TS BEEN IN RESTAURO FOR MANY YEARS BUT IF YOU lND IT OPEN YOU SHOULD SEE A "YZANTINE IVORY RELIQUARY FOR A PIECE OF THE 4RUE #ROSS ON THE HIGH ALTAR BEHIND WHICH "ROTHER %LIAS IS BURIED AND ON THE THIRD ALTAR ON THE LEFT THERES AN !NNUNCIATION BY THE MAN THE STREET IS NAMED AFTER 0IETRO "ERRETTINI OTHERWISE KNOWN AS 0IETRO DA #ORTONA (E WAS BORN AT NO FUR THER UP THE HILL 4HIS IS 0IETROS LAST WORK AND WAS LEFT UNlNISHED THE BEST OF HIS ART IS IN 2OME WHERE HE AND "ERNINI WERE TWO OF THE MOST INmUENTIAL lGURES IN THE CREATION OF 2OMAN "AROQUE !T THE TIME OF WRITING THE PICTURE HAD BEEN REMOVED TO -!%# BUT IT SHOULD RETURN WHEN THE BUILDERS HAVE lNISHED ! FURTHER WORK BY 3IGNORELLI IS TO BE FOUND IN THE CHURCH OF 3AN .ICOLÛ DAILY AMnNOON nPM CLOSES PM IN WINTER + MINIMUM OFFERING EXPECTED SIGNPOSTED JUST BEYOND 0IAZZA DELLA 0ESCAIA )TS A FRAIL LITTLE CHURCH WITH A GRAVEL FORECOURT A DELICATE PORTICO AND A lNE WOODEN CEILING THATS SAG GING WITH AGE 3IGNORELLIS HIGH ALTARPIECE IS A STANDARD WHICH HE PAINTED ON BOTH SIDES A CHARACTERISTICALLY ANGULAR %NTOMBMENT ON THE FRONT AND A -ADONNA AND 3AINTS ON THE BACK n REVEALED BY A NEAT HYDRAULIC SYSTEM THAT SWIVELS THE PICTURE AWAY FROM THE WALL AS THE SACRISTAN WHO LETS YOU INTO THE BUILDING WILL DEMONSTRATE &ROM 0IAZZA DELLA 0ESCAIA A STEEP PATH LEADS TO THE NEO 2OMANESQUE 3ANTA -ARGHERITA "UILT TO HONOUR THE TOWNS PATRON SAINT 3AINT -ARGARET OF #OR TONA IT WAS BEGUN IN THE YEAR OF HER DEATH BUT WAS REMODELLED SO EXTEN SIVELY IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY THAT THE ONLY PART OF THE ORIGINAL STRUCTURE THATS LEFT EMBEDDED IN ITS REPLACEMENT IS THE ROSE WINDOW OF THE FACADE 4HE DAUGHTER OF A LOCAL FARMER -ARGARET SPENT HER LONG YEARS OF WIDOWHOOD AS A &RANCISCAN NUN HELPING THE POOR AND SICK OF #ORTONA FOR WHOM SHE FOUNDED A HOSPITAL THAT STOOD CLOSE TO THE SITE OF THE CHURCH 3O INTENSE WAS HER RELATIONSHIP WITH THE !LMIGHTY THAT THE TOWNSPEOPLE WOULD PACK INTO 3AN &RANCESCO TO OBSERVE HER DELIRIOUS BEHAVIOUR AT -ASS h3HE BECAME ASHEN PALE HER PULSE CEASED SHE FROZE HER THROAT WAS SO AFFECTED BY HOARSENESS THAT SHE COULD SCARCELY BE UNDER STOOD WHEN SHE RETURNED TO HER SENSES v ONE WITNESS RECORDED (ER TOMB WITH MARBLE ANGELS LIFTING THE LID OF HER SARCOPHAGUS IS NOW MOUNTED ON THE WALL TO THE LEFT OF THE CHANCEL ITS UNOCCUPIED AS HER MUMMIlED BODY LIES IN A GLASS COFlN AT THE HIGH ALTAR 4HE MAIN ALTARPIECE 3IGNORELLIS ,AMENTATION HAS BEEN REMOVED TO THE -USEO $IOCESANO BUT IN THE CHAPEL TO THE RIGHT OF THE CHANCEL YOU CAN SEE A THIRTEENTH CENTURY #RUCIlX THAT IS SAID TO HAVE SPOKEN TO -ARGARET ON A NUMBER OF OCCASIONS WHEN IT WAS HANGING IN 3AN &RANCESCO 4HE &ORTEZZA -EDICEA AT THE SUMMIT OF THE TOWN IS SOMETIMES USED AS AN EXHIBITION SPACE IN SUMMER AND THE AREA IN FRONT OF IT IS GOOD GROUND FOR A PICNIC OFFERING SUPERB VIEWS OVER RUINED %TRUSCAN AND 2OMAN WALLS TOWARDS 4RASIMENO 9OU COULD DESCEND TO 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI BY THE STEPPED 6IA #RUCIS WHERE THE 3TATIONS OF THE #ROSS ARE MARKED WITH BOOTHS SHELTERING UNSUBTLE MOSAICS BY 3EVERINI 3AN $OMENICO AND 3ANTA -ARIA DEL #ALCINAIO
! LAST CHURCH IN THE CENTRE OF TOWN TO CHECK OUT IS 3AN $OMENICO DAILY nPM A HALF MINUTES WALK FROM 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI #OMPLETED IN IT HAS A lNE HIGH ALTARPIECE BY ,ORENZO DI .ICCOLÛ 'ERINI #ORONATION OF THE 6IRGIN YET ANOTHER 3IGNORELLI -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 3AINTS AND A DILAPIDATED FRESCO
%ATING AND DRINKING
#ORTONA HAS NUMEROUS RESTAURANTS SEVERAL OF WHICH ARE HIGHLY RECOMMEND ABLE n AS YET THERES NO SIGN OF STANDARDS DROPPING AS THE INmUX OF TOURISTS INCREASES .EARLY ALL THE PLACES TO EAT AND DRINK ARE WITHIN A VERY SHORT DISTANCE OF 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA
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BY &RA !NGELICO IN THE LUNETTE ABOVE THE MAIN DOOR BUT ITS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO SEE BEHIND ITS SCREEN OF PROTECTIVE GLASS "ELOW THE PIAZZA THE MIDDLE DISTANCE IS OCCUPIED BY THE PERFECTLY PRO PORTIONED THOUGH SEVERELY ERODED 2ENAISSANCE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA DEL #ALCINAIO SUMMER -ONn3AT nPM 3UN AMnPM WINTER -ONn3AT nPM 3UN AMnPM 4HE MASTERPIECE OF 'IORGIO DI -ARTINI IT WAS BEGUN IN TO ENSHRINE A MIRACULOUS IMAGE OF -ARY THAT A LIME BURNER CALCINAIO HAD UNEARTHED AT THE TANNERY HERE LIME WAS USED IN THE TANNING PROCESS !NOTHER 4USCAN CHURCH OF THIS VINTAGE n 3ANTA -ARIA DELLE #ARCERI IN 0RATO n WAS BUILT FOR SIMILAR REASONS BUT THE NUMBER OF PILGRIMS WHO mOCKED TO #ORTONA MADE IT IMPOSSIBLE FOR THE ARCHITECT TO EMPLOY THE FASHIONABLE CEN TRAL PLAN DESIGN USED IN 0RATO (ENCE THIS HIGHLY RElNED COMPROMISE CLASSICAL DETAILING APPLIED TO AN OLD FASHIONED CRUCIFORM CHURCH )NSIDE THE MIRACULOUS -ADONNA IS STILL DISPLAYED ON THE HIGH ALTAR *UST PAST 3ANTA -ARIA SIGNS DIRECT YOU FARTHER DOWN THE HILL TO THE 4ANELLA DI 0ITAGORA n A WELL PRESERVED %TRUSCAN CHAMBER TOMB THATS FANCIFULLY IDENTI lED WITH THE 'REEK MATHEMATICIAN 0YTHAGORAS )N FACT IT WAS CONSTRUCTED FOR A WEALTHY FAMILY BY THE NAME OF #USO WHO ARE CITED IN THE 4ABULA #ORTONENSIS
\ 3OUTH OF !REZZO THE 6ALDICHIANA 5 4HE LOGGIA #ORTONAS 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA
2ESTAURANTS
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\ 3OUTH OF !REZZO THE 6ALDICHIANA
$ARDANO 6IA $ARDANO T !N EXCELLENT UNPRETENTIOUS INEXPENSIVE AND VERY POPULAR TRATTORIA n ITS FULL TO BURSTING MOST NIGHTS #LOSED 7ED &UmUNS 6IA 'HIBELLINA n )F PIZZAS ALL YOU NEED THIS SPACIOUS AND BUSTLING PLACE IS THE lRST CHOICE /PEN DAILY )L &ALCONIERE 3AN -ARTINO A "OCENA WWWILFALCONIERECOM 4HE -ICHELIN AWARDED RESTAURANT OF THE &ALCONIERE HOTEL SEE P USES INGREDIENTS THAT ARE PRODUCED ON THE HOTELS OWN LAND )TS EXPENSIVE AND WORTH EVERY EURO #LOSED WEEKS IN *AN ,A 'ROTTA 0IAZZETTA "ALDELLI -UCH LIKE $ARDANO ,A 'ROTTA IS A STRAIGHT DOWN THE LINE TRATTORIA ALBEIT WITH A SLIGHTLY HIGHER PERCENTAGE OF TOURISTS AMONG THE CLIENTIELE #LOSED 4UES /STERIA DEL 4EATRO 6IA -AFFEI WWWOSTERIA DEL TEATRO IT /CCUPYING THE WHOLE LOWER mOOR OF A HANDSOME AND RAMBLING OLD HOUSE THIS IS A GOOD NATUREDLY BUSY SOMETIMES FRANTIC PLACE FEATURING DELICIOUS HOMEMADE PASTAS ON A MEAT HEAVY MENU PORTIONS ARE GENEROUS AND THE PRICES MORE THAN FAIR n THE BILL SHOULD BE AROUND + PER PERSON #LOSED 7ED MID .OV TO MID $EC 0RELUDIO 6IA 'UELFA 4HE FOOD IS INVARIABLY GOOD AND PRICES SURPRISINGLY MODERATE
IN THIS SMARTLY TURNED OUT RESTAURANT #LOSED -ON AND LUNCHTIME IN WINTER 4ONINO 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI 'OOD ANTIPASTI AND A WONDERFUL PANORAMIC VIEW FROM THE TERRACE ARE THE CHIEF ATTRACTIONS OF THE DEPEND ABLE 4ONINO #LOSED -ON EVENING PLUS ALL 4UES IN WINTER
"ARS AND CAFÏS #AFFÒ DEGLI !RTISTI 6IA .AZIONALE &OR A SNACK PLUS COFFEE PIT STOP THIS PLACE WILL DO NICELY #AFFÒ DEL 4EATRO /N THE TERRACE OF THE 4EATRO 3IGNORELLI /N SUMMER EVENINGS THIS IS A FAVOURITE NIGHT TIME HANGOUT WITH LIVE MUSIC SOME WEEK ENDS #AFFÒ %NOTECA ,A 3ALETTA 6IA .AZIONALE n ! GLOSSY CAFÏ CUM WINE SHOP WHICH ALSO DOES SIMPLE MEALS 2OUTE 6IA .AZIONALE 4HIS SELF STYLED hMUSIC BARv ATTRACTS THE YOUNGEST CROWD IN TOWN n THE SOUNDTRACK IS USUALLY LOUD AND IT HAS OCCASIONAL $* NIGHTS )T DOES FOOD TOO BUT ITS NOT THE PIZZAS THAT MAKE IT POPULAR 4AVERNA 0ANE E 6INO 0IAZZA 3IGNORELLI ! GOOD CHOICE IF YOURE AFTER A QUICK LUNCH OR A LIGHT EVENING MEAL THE MENU OFFERS VARIOUS TYPES OF BRUSCHETTA A WIDE SELECTION OF SALAMIS AND CHEESES PLUS A FEW MORE SUBSTANTIAL DISHES n AND THE WINE LIST RUNS TO SOME DIFFERENT VIN TAGES #LOSED -ON
#ASTIGLION &IORENTINO ,OOMING HIGH ABOVE THE ROAD AND RAILWAY KM NORTH OF #ORTONA ARE THE WALLS AND MASSIVE TOWER OF #!34)',)/. &)/2%.4)./ n KNOWN AS #ASTIGLION !RETINO UNTIL !REZZO BECAME A &LORENTINE HOLDING IN 4HE FORTIlED OLD TOWN IS SO FAR ABOVE THE TRAIN STATION THAT IT MAKES MORE SENSE TO VISIT BY BUS THE HALF HOURLY BUS FROM !REZZO TO #ORTONA BOWLS THROUGH HERE THIRTY MINUTES INTO ITS ONE HOUR JOURNEY STOPPING RIGHT OUTSIDE THE WALLS IN 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI &ROM HERE THE #ORSO )TALIA RISES TO THE NAVEL OF THE CENTRO STORICO THE ELEGANT 0IAZZA DEL -UNICIPIO 4HERES A MODEST ART GALLERY THE 0INACOTECA #OMU NALE A SHORT DISTANCE UP THE HILL BEHIND THE -UNICIPIO IN 6IA DEL 0ASSERO !PRILn/CT 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM .OVn-ARCH 3AT 3UN AMnPM nPM + WITH WORKS BY 4ADDEO 'ADDI AND TWO lNE PAINTINGS BY "ARTOLOMEO DELLA 'ATTA ! + TICKET ALSO GETS YOU INTO THE EQUALLY MODEST ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM IN THE NEIGHBOURING LIBRARY SAME HOURS WHERE THE CHIEF EXHIBIT IS A RECONSTRUCTED FRAGMENT OF AN %TRUSCAN TEMPLE /N THE SAME TICKET YOU CAN VISIT THE EXCAVATIONS OF THE %TRUSCAN WALLS UNDERNEATH THE SUMMIT OF THE HILL FROM WHICH RISES THE 4ORRE DEL #ASSERO #ASTIGLION &IOREN TINOS LANDMARK TOWER BUILT TO THE ORDERS OF !REZZOS PUGNACIOUS "ISHOP 4ARLATI 4HE TOWER ITSELF IS OPEN -AYn3EPT 3UN AMnPM nPM 4UESn&RI IN SUMMER AND ANY DAY EXCEPT -ON 3AT IN WINTER VISITS CAN BE BOOKED AT THE PINACOTECA + /PPOSITE THE 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE IS #ASTIGLIONS DISTINGUISHING FEATURE A LOGGIA n SUPPOSEDLY DESIGNED BY 6ASARI n WHICH FORMS A PICTURE FRAME FOR THE HILLS TO
THE EAST ,OOK TO THE RIGHT THROUGH THE LOGGIA AND YOULL SEE THE TOWNS MAJOR CHURCH THE #OLLEGIATA WHICH HAS A (OLY &AMILY BY ,ORENZO DI #REDI TO THE RIGHT OF THE HIGH ALTAR 4HE ADJOINING 0IEVE n CURRENTLY BEING CONVERTED INTO A SMALL MUSEUM OF SACRED ART n HAS A 3IGNORELLI FRESCO OF THE $EPOSITION &OUR KILOMETRES SOUTH OF HERE THE ELEVENTH CENTURY CASTLE OF -ONTECCHIO 6ESPONI JABS UP FROM THE HORIZON #OMMANDING A GREAT SWEEP OF THE VALLEY THIS PROPERTY WAS ACQUIRED IN BY THE FEARSOME CONDOTTIERE 3IR *OHN (AWK WOOD HE OF THE FRESCO IN &LORENCES $UOMO n SEE P AND IS THE ONLY ONE OF HIS NUMEROUS ILL GOTTEN RESIDENCES TO SURVIVE INTACT )TS STILL IN PRIVATE HANDS
&ARNETA &OIANO AND ,UCIGNANO
!2% : : / 02/6 ) .# %
\ 3OUTH OF !REZZO THE 6ALDICHIANA
!BOUT KM WEST OF #ORTONA IN THE MIDDLE OF THE VALLEY STANDS THE ANCIENT "ENEDICTINE !BBAZIA DI &ARNETA DAILY AMnPM nPM "UILT LARGELY WITH STONE PLUNDERED FROM A NEARBY 2OMAN TEMPLE DEDICATED TO "ACCHUS THIS BEAUTIFULLY AUSTERE BUILDING lRST APPEARED IN LOCAL RECORDS IN BUT MAY HAVE BEEN FOUNDED AS FAR BACK AS THE EIGHTH CENTURY BY THE ,OMBARDS /NCE THE MOST POWERFUL RELIGIOUS HOUSE IN THE 6ALDICHIANA IT HAD FALLEN INTO DISREPAIR BY WHEN A REMARKABLE PRIEST BY THE NAME OF -ONSIGNOR 3ANTE &ELICI ARRIVED HERE /VER THE COURSE OF THE NEXT SIXTY YEARS HE VIRTUALLY SINGLE HAND EDLY STRIPPED THE ABBEY OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY ACCRETIONS THAT HAD DEFACED THE 2OMANESQUE STRUCTURE AND ALSO EXCAVATED THE ANCIENT CRYPT AN OPERATION THAT YIELDED NUMEROUS ARCHEOLOGICAL AND PALEONTOLOGICAL DISCOVERIES INCLUDING THE BONES OF PREHISTORIC ELEPHANTS HIPPOS AND RHINOS !N ENGAGINGLY RAMSHACKLE LITTLE MUSEUM USED TO OCCUPY PART OF THE NEIGHBOURING HOUSE BUT REPEATED ROBBERY ATTEMPTS NECESSITATED THE TRANSFER OF ITS MOST PRECIOUS ARTEFACTS n SUCH AS AN EIGHTH CENTURY ,OMBARD CARVING OF THE #RUCIlXION n TO #ORTONA WHILE THE MOST SPECTACULAR OF -ONSIGNOR &ELICIS FOSSILS ARE NOW ON SHOW IN &LORENCES MUSEUM OF PALEONTOLOGY &/)!./ $%,,! #()!.! KM WEST OF THE ABBEY SOMETIMES BILLS ITSELF AS h,A #ITTÌ DI #ARNEVALEv BECAUSE IT WAS HERE IN THE S THAT ALLEGORICAL mOATS WERE lRST PRODUCED FOR CARNIVAL PARADES THEREBY INAUGURATING A FORM OF FOLK ART THAT NOWADAYS IS BEST REPRESENTED BY THE 6IAREGGIO CARNIVAL /THER THAN AT CARNIVAL HOWEVER WORKADAY &OIANO IS FAR FROM THE MOST ALLURING SMALL TOWN IN 4USCANY 4HE WEATHERED BRICK FORTIlCATIONS OF THE OLD CENTRE ARE MILDLY IMPRESSIVE AND DEVOTEES OF THE ART OF THE DELLA 2OBBIA DYNASTY MIGHT WANT TO TAKE A LOOK AT THE EXAMPLES OF THEIR OUTPUT IN THE CHURCHES OF 3AN -ICHELE !RCANGELO 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA &RATERNITÌ AND THE #OLLEGIATA THE LAST OF WHICH ALSO HOUSES THE LAST PAINTING BY ,UCA 3IGNORELLI "UT IF NONE OF THESE APPEAL YOUD BEST PRESS ON A FURTHER KM TO ,5#)'.!./ 4HIS TRIM LITTLE TOWN IS LAID OUT AS A CONCENTRIC PATTERN OF FOUR ELLIPSES THOUGH THE DENSITY OF THE CENTRE AND ITS GRADIENTS MAKE IT DIFlCULT TO DISCERN THE ARRANGEMENT ON THE GROUND .UCLEUS OF THE PATTERN IS THE #OLLEGIATA AN UNEXCEPTIONAL CHURCH GIVEN A TOUCH OF PANACHE BY THE DOUBLE SEMICIRCULAR STAIRCASE LEADING TO ITS DOOR 2OUND THE BACK THE -USEO #OMUNALE SUMMER 4UESn4HURS 3ATn3UN AMnPM nPM WINTER 4UES 4HURSn3UN SAME HOURS + CONTAINS A COUPLE OF LESSER WORKS BY 3IGNORELLI AND THE MOST ARRESTING ARTEFACT ON THIS SIDE OF THE 6ALDICHIANA AN AMAZING FOURTEENTH CENTURY GILDED RELIQUARY MADE IN !REZZO )TS KNOWN AS THE !LBERO DI ,UCIGNANO OR !LBERO D/RO FOR ITS TREE LIKE SHAPE WITH GOLD AND SILVER ADORNMENTS AND BRANCHES OF CORAL LEAFED WITH CRYSTAL ENAMELS AND MINIATURE PAINTINGS 4HIRTEENTH AND FOUR TEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES SOME OF THEM BY "ARTOLO DI &REDI DECORATE THE ADJA CENT CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCESCO !ND THATS ABOUT IT APART FROM THE INEVITABLE
-EDICI FORTRESS ON THE HILL TO THE NORTH BUT IF YOU WANT TO STAY BOOK A ROOM AT ,UCIGNANOS FAMILY RUN HOTEL RESTAURANT $A 4OTØ WHICH OCCUPIES A CONVERTED MONASTERY ON 0IAZZA DEL 4RIBUNALE 4INY IT MAY BE YET ,UCIGNANO HAS TWO OTHER SUPERB AND NOT EXPENSIVE PLACES TO EAT THE %NOTECA 2ISTORANTE )L 'OCCINO AT 6IA -ATTEOTTI n CLOSED -ON AND ,A 2OCCA 6IA -ATTEOTTI n CLOSED 4UES
-ONTE 3AN 3AVINO
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\ 4RAVEL DETAILS
/N THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE 6ALDICHIANA FROM #ORTONA RISES -/.4% 3!. 3!6)./ NOW A MARKET TOWN ONCE A CONTENTIOUS BORDER POST BETWEEN THE TERRITORIES OF &LORENCE 3IENA AND !REZZO IT WAS RAZED IN ON THE ORDERS OF "ISHOP 4ARLATI OF !REZZO 4HE TOWN RETAINS A SLIGHTLY DECREPIT MIX OF MEDIEVAL AND 2ENAISSANCE MONUMENTS BUT IT IS NOT ONE OF 4USCANYS MORE SEDUCTIVE HILL TOWNS 3HOULD YOU BE DETERMINED TO EXPLORE IT HOWEVER THERE ARE REGULAR TRAINS FROM !REZZO TO THE STATION IN THE LOWER TOWN FROM WHERE THERES THE USUAL BUS SHUTTLE BUSES FROM #ORTONA ALSO PERIODICALLY CROSS THE VALLEY 4HE TOWN WAS THE BIRTHPLACE OF !NDREA 3ANSOVINO NOW BEST REMEMBERED AS THE MENTOR OF *ACOPO 3ANSOVINO A CRUCIAL lGURE IN 6ENICES ARTISTIC HISTORY WHO TOOK HIS TEACHERS SURNAME 4ERRACOTTA WAS ONE OF HIS PREFERRED MEDIA n THE TOWN REMAINS A MAJOR PRODUCER OF MAJOLICA n AND SOME OF !NDREAS BEST CERAM ICS ARE IN THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA #HIARA WHICH STANDS IN 0IAZZA 'AMURRINI THE SQUARE NEAREST THE PLACE WHERE THE BUSES STOP 4HE ALTARPIECE OF 33 ,AWRENCE 2OCH AND 3EBASTIAN WAS HIS lRST MAJOR WORK WHILE THE TABERNACLE TO THE LEFT OF THE HIGH ALTAR WAS A COLLABORATION WITH !NDREA DELLA 2OBBIA 6IRTUALLY NEXT TO THE CHURCH STANDS THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY 3IENESE CASTLE KNOWN AS THE #ASSERO WHICH HOUSES A SMALL TOURIST OFlCE HAS A MODEST THREE ROOM -USEO #IVICO THATS LARGELY GIVEN OVER TO CERAMICS 3AT 3UN AMnNOON nPM + AND STAGES OCCASIONAL ART EXHIBITIONS !LSO ON THE SQUARE IS AN OBELISK THAT WAS RAISED TO HONOUR -ONTE 3AN 3AVINOS ONE TIME GOVERNOR -ATTIAS DE -EDICI BROTHER OF 'RAND $UKE &ERDINANDO )) ALLEGEDLY IT COST SO MUCH THAT -ATTIAS FORBADE ANY MORE SUCH RUINOUS PROJECTS #ONTINUING DOWN THE NARROW MAIN STREET FROM 0IAZZA 'AMURRINI YOULL PASS THE ,OGGIA DEI -ERCANTI A COLLABORATION BETWEEN 3ANSOVINO AND !NTONIO DA 3ANGALLO THE %LDER n ARCHITECT OF THE 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE OPPOSITE "EYOND THE 0ALAZZO 0RETORIO LIES THE SMALL CENTRAL SQUARE 0IAZZA DI -ONTE ON BOTH OF WHOSE CHURCHES 3ANSOVINO LEFT A MARK (E DESIGNED THE NOW CRUMBLING PORTAL OF 3AN 'IOVANNI AND ADDED THE CLOISTER TO THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY 3ANT!GOSTINO WHICH CONTAINS SOME lFTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES AND AN ALTARPIECE BY 6ASARI WHO FERRETED HIS WAY INTO EVERY CRANNY OF THE REGION !CCOMMODATION IS AT THE ONE STAR )L -ONTE 6IA !LDO -ORO OR THE THREE STAR 3ANGALLO 0IAZZA 6ITTORIO 6ENETO WWWSANGALLOHOTELIT
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!REZZO TO !SSISI DAILY HR MIN "IBBIENA HOURLY MIN "OLZANO DAILY HR MIN #AMUCIA #ORTONA HOURLY MIN #HIUSI HOURLY
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YEARS HAD HALF OF %UROPE WHIPPING ITSELF INTO A FRENZY BEFORE THE MOVEMENT WAS DECLARED HERETICAL )N ADDITION TO SOME HEARTY SCOURGING THEY TOOK TO THE STREETS ON MOONLIT NIGHTS WAILING SINGING DIRGES AND CLATTERING HUMAN BONES TOGETHER n ALL AS EXPIATION FOR THE WRONGS OF THE WORLD 5SING ITS ECONOMIC MUSCLE AND NUMEROUS SHORT LIVED ALLIANCES THE CITY BUILT UP A HUGE POWER BASE PEAKING WITH ITS CONQUEST OF 3IENA IN !ROUND
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THIS TIME THE 0RIORI MEMBERS OF THE TEN LEADING GUILDS NOBLE FAMILIES AND PAPAL AGENTS BEGAN VYING FOR CONTROL PLUNGING 0ERUGIA INTO A PERIOD WHEN ACCORD ING TO ONE CHRONICLER hPERFECT PANDEMONIUM REIGNED IN AND ABOUT THE CITYv )NDIVIDUAL CONDOTTIERI ROSE BRIEmY FROM THE CHAOS THE KEY lGURES BEING "IONDO -ICHELOTTI n STABBED TO DEATH IN AFTER lVE YEARS IN POWER n AND THE ODDLY NAMED "RACCIO &ORTEBRACCIO !RM THE 3TRONG !RM WHOSE EIGHT YEARS OF RULE BROUGHT SHORT LIVED STABILITY 4HE /DDI NOBILITY RAN THE TOWN UNTIL WHEN THE COLOURFUL BUT DEMENTED "AGLIONI TOOK OVER 4HEIR STORY IS THE STUFF OF SOAP OPERA COMPLICATED VENDETTAS INCESTUOUS MARRIAGES HEARTS TORN FROM BODIES AND EATEN AND ANY NUMBER OF PEOPLE MURDERED ON THEIR WEDDING NIGHTS !FTER ONE EPISODE WAS SETTLED WITH A HUNDRED MURDERS THE BLOODIED CATHEDRAL HAD TO BE WASHED DOWN WITH WINE AND RECONSECRATED /NE "AGLIONI -ALATESTA )6 ASSIGNED THE DEFENCE OF &LORENCE IN FAMOUSLY SOLD HIS SERVICES TO THE ENEMY EARNING THE TITLE hWORLDS GREATEST TRAITORv 7HEN THE LAST "AGLIONI THE WIMPISH 2IDOLPHO BUNGLED AN ASSASSINATION OF THE PAPAL LEGATE IT WAS A CUE FOR THE PAPACY TO STEP IN 0OPE 0AUL ))) ONE OF THE MORE POWERFUL AND PECULIAR PONTIFFS RAZED THE "AGLIONI PALACES IN THEN ENTERED THE CITY DEMANDING THAT ALL ITS NUNS LINE UP AND KISS HIS FEET 4HUS REFRESHED HE BUILT THE 2OCCA 0AOLINA A HUGE FORTRESS THAT GUARANTEED CHURCH SUPREMACY FOR THREE CENTURIES $URING THE NINETEENTH CENTURY UNIlCA TION OF )TALY 0ERUGIAS LIBERATION FROM THE PAPACY WAS PARTICULARLY VIOLENT WITH NUMEROUS CITIZENS MASSACRED BY 3WISS 'UARDS SENT TO BOLSTER #HURCH CONTROL ,IBERATION FROM THE .AZIS IN COURTESY OF THE "RITISH %IGHTH !RMY WAS CONSIDERABLY LESS BLOODTHIRSTY
!RRIVAL AND INFORMATION !RRIVAL IN 0ERUGIA CAN BE AN EXTREMELY DISPIRITING BUSINESS ITS APPROACHES A CONFUSING MEDLEY OF SUBURBS BUSY ROADS AND HARD TO lND PARKING PLACES /NCE IN THE MEDIEVAL CENTRO STORICO HOWEVER THINGS IMPROVE CONSIDERABLY 4HE OLD CITY REVOLVES AROUND #ORSO 6ANNUCCI A BROAD PEDESTRIAN THOROUGHFARE CAPPED AT ITS NORTHERN END BY THE 0IAZZA )6 .OVEMBRE n HOME TO THE $UOMO AND 0AL AZZO DEI 0RIORI n AND IN THE SOUTH BY 0IAZZA )TALIA JUMPING OFF POINT FOR THE CITYS SOUTHERN QUARTERS 4HE TWISTING MEDIEVAL ALLEYS OFF THE #ORSO ARE INITIALLY DISORIENTATING BUT BY DIVIDING THE CITY INTO WESTERN NORTHERN AND SOUTHERN SEC TIONS YOU SOON GET TO GRIPS WITH THE LAYOUT 9OU CAN WALK EVERYWHERE ALTHOUGH YOULL COVER A FAIR BIT OF GROUND IN THE COURSE OF A DAYS SIGHTSEEING n PARTICULARLY IF YOU TAKE IN SIGHTS AT THE EXTREME NORTHERN AND SOUTHERN ENDS OF TOWN 9OU SHOULD ALSO BE PREPARED FOR STEEP CLIMBS BETWEEN 0ERUGIAS MANY LEVELS LIFTS AND ESCALATORS HELP OUT ONLY OCCASIONALLY !RRIVAL
!RRIVING ON THE STATE TRAIN NETWORK YOULL lND YOURSELF WELL AWAY FROM THE CENTRO STORICO AT 0IAZZA 6ITTORIO 6ENETO ITS TOO FAR TO WALK FROM HERE n ITS ALL UPHILL ON BUSY ROADS n BUT THE CENTRE IS AN EASY BUS RIDE AWAY "USES 3 $ OR LEAVE FROM THE FORECOURT OUTSIDE THE STA TION AND ARRIVE TEN MINUTES LATER IN 0IAZZA )TALIA OR 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI BOTH EQUALLY CONVENIENT THE NUMBERING IS PRONE TO CHANGE BUT ANY BUS GOING TO THESE SQUARES IS lNE THE BUS STOP LISTS THE DESTINATIONS 9OU CAN BUY A CITY BUS TICKET + FOR UNLIMITED JOURNEYS IN HR MIN FROM THE STATION NEWSAGENTS TURN RIGHT AS YOU ENTER THE TICKET HALL FROM THE PLATFORMS OR A BOOTH ON THE LEFT OF THE FORECOURT AS YOU EXIT THE STATION PAYING ON BOARD COSTS + AND YOU MUST HAVE THE RIGHT CHANGE 9OURE UNLIKELY TO USE ENOUGH BUSES TO MAKE
)NFORMATION
4HERES A TOURIST OFlCE JUST BEHIND THE 0ALAZZO DEI 0RIORI IN THE 3ALA 3AN 3EVERO AT 0IAZZA )6 .OVEMBRE -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM INFO IATPERUGIAIT 3TAFF PROVIDE A GOOD MAP ADVICE ON CITY EVENTS AND HELP IN lNDING ACCOMMODATION AND %UROP CAR CAR RENTAL ! PRIVATE INFORMATION OFlCE )NFOTOURIST 0OINT ON THE NORTHEAST CORNER OF 0IAZZA 0ARTIGIANI -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM WWWINFOUMBRIACOM IS A GOOD SOURCE OF INFORMATION ON ORGANIZED HALF AND FULL DAY TOURS MORE INFORMATION WWWGUIDEINUMBRIA COM THESE INCLUDE HALF DAY TRIPS TO 'UBBIO + AND DAY TRIPS TO /RVIETO OR 3POLETO BOTH +
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!CCOMMODATION 0ERUGIA HAS PLENTY OF ACCOMMODATION IN ALL PRICE RANGES THOUGH YOU SHOULD RESERVE AHEAD AS SOME OF THE CHEAPEST PLACES MAY BE TAKEN UP BY LONG STAY STUDENTS BOOK TOO DURING THE *ULY JAZZ FESTIVAL WHEN RATES WILL LIKELY BE RAISED 0RICES ARE OTHERWISE PRETTY STANDARD YEAR ROUND WITH NO REAL LOW SEASON )T PAYS TO BE IN OR VERY NEAR THE CENTRO STORICO YOU DONT WANT TO BE OUT IN THE SUBURBS AT ANY PRICE UNLESS YOURE LUCKY ENOUGH TO BE STAYING IN AN HISTORIC HOTEL SUCH AS THE #ASTELLO DELL/SCANO )F YOURE CAMPING ITS WORTH CONSIDERING TRAVELLING INTO THE CITY FROM THE NICER CAMPSITES AROUND ,AGO 4RASIMENO SEE P (OTELS !NNA 6IA DEI 0RIORI WWWALBERGOANNAIT #ENTRAL ONE STAR WITH THIRTEEN ROOMS AND A CHOICE OF PRIVATE OR SHARED BATHROOMS !URORA 6IALE )NDIPENDENZA OR ! FOURTEEN ROOM TWO STAR IMMEDIATELY SOUTH OF 0IAZZA )TALIA "ASIC AND CLEAN WITH VERY HELPFUL STAFF BUT ON A VERY BUSY ROAD
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THE #ARD 4URISTICO + VALID HR WORTHWHILE 4HE PRIVATE RAIL LINE BETWEEN 3ANSEPOLCRO 0ERUGIA AND 4ERNI COMES INTO THE MORE CENTRAL 3TAZIONE 3ANT!NNA IN THE SOUTHERN PART OF TOWN NEAR THE 0IAZZA DEI 0ARTIGIANI BUS TERMINAL 4HE CENTRO STORICO IS CLOSED TO TRAFlC AT MOST TIMES n AND EVEN WHEN OPEN IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO NAVIGATE 4HE BEST BET IS TO FOLLOW THE SIGNS FOR 0IAZZA DEI 0ARTIGIANI IN THE SOUTH WHERE THERES A LARGE COVERED CAR PARK HOURLY TARIFF &ROM HERE YOU CAN JUMP ON ONE OF THE SIGNED SCALA MOBILE ESCALATORS THROUGH THE WEIRD SUBTERRANEAN 6IA "AGLIONI 3OTTERANEA TO 0IAZZA )TALIA !NOTHER GOOD OPTION IN THE WEST IS THE PARKING IN 6IALE 0OMPEO 0ELLINI HOURLY TARIFF CON NECTED BY ESCALATORS TO 6IA DEI 0RIORI )F YOURE DRIVING IN FROM THE NORTH YOU MAY lND THE CAR PARK IN 6IALE 3ANT!NTONIO MORE CONVENIENT /UT OF TOWN BUSES ARRIVE AT THE EFlCIENT BUS STATION IN 0IAZZA DEI 0ARTIGIANI TO REACH THE CENTRE SIMPLY CROSS THE MAIN ROAD OUTSIDE THE TERMINAL FOR THE RAMP LEADING TO THE SCALA MOBILE TO 0IAZZA )TALIA 0ERUGIAS SMALL AIRPORT 3ANT%GIDIO WWWAIRPORTUMBRIA IT IS KM EAST AND HANDLES DOMESTIC mIGHTS TO AND FROM -ILAN -ALPENSA AND 2OME !N INFREQUENT h!IRBUSv RUN BY !#!0 MEETS THE MAIN INCOMING mIGHTS SHUTTLING TO 0IAZZA )TALIA CURRENTLY THREE DAILY + /THERWISE TAXIS ARE THE ONLY OPTION
#ASTELLO DELL/SCANO ,OCALITÌ #ENERENTE 3TRADA DELLA &ORCELLA WWWOSCANOCOM 4HIS CON VERTED FOUR STAR HOTEL HAS JUST TEN ROOMS ALL PART OF AN AMAZING CASTLE WITH FULL MEDIEVAL TRAPPINGS SET IN ACRES OF PARKLAND KM NORTH OF 0ERUGIA %DEN 6IA #ESARE #APORALI WWWHOTELEDENIT !N EIGHT EEN ROOM TWO STAR ALL ROOMS WITH PRIVATE BATH IN AN ALLEY JUST A FEW PACES WEST OF THE #ORSO
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\ #ORSO 6ANNUCCI AND 0IAZZA )6 .OVEMBRE
%TRURIA 6IA DELLA ,UNA !N EIGHT ROOM ONE STAR WITH AND WITHOUT PRIVATE BATHROOMS PERFECTLY POSITIONED JUST WEST OF 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA AND THE #ORSO 0AOLA 6IA DELLA #ANAPINA ! POPULAR IF SLIGHTLY PERIPHERAL ONE STAR PLACE BUT ONLY EIGHT ROOMS FOUR SHARED BATHROOMS SO BE SURE TO CALL IN ADVANCE )TS TRICKY TO lND FOLLOW SIGNS FOR THE (OTEL 5MBRIA FROM THE #ORSO GO DOWN THE STEPS IN THE PASSAGEWAY TURN RIGHT AND FOLLOW THE SECOND SET OF STEPS TOWARDS THE CAR PARK ,OCANDA DELLA 0OSTA #ORSO 6ANNUCCI WWW UMBRIATRAVELCOMLOCANDADELLAPOSTA #ENTRAL ROOM FOUR STAR AND THOUGH THE lVE STAR "RUFANI JUST TO THE SOUTH IS SMARTER AND MORE EXPENSIVE THIS IS THE lRST CHOICE IN 0ERUGIA IF YOU WANT A TREAT 'OETHE AND (ANS #HRISTIAN !NDERSEN ARE JUST TWO LUMINARIES TO HAVE STAYED HERE 0RIORI 6IA DEI 0RIORIn6IA 6ERMIGLIOLI WWW HOTELPRIORIIT &IRST CHOICE MID RANGE HOTEL n IF ONLY BECAUSE IT HAS ROOMS SO THERES A GOOD CHANCE OF lNDING SPACE A TWO STAR PLACE TASTE FULLY lTTED OUT AND WELL LOCATED !LSO HAS A GREAT TERRACE OVERLOOKING THE ROOFTOPS 2OOMS VARY IN
PRICE SO ASK TO SEE A SELECTION 2OSALBA 0IAZZA DEL #IRCO WWWHOTELROSALBACOM !N EXCELLENT TWO STAR WITH ELEVEN ROOMS ALL WITH PRIVATE BATHROOMS SOUTH OF 0IAZZA )TALIA 5MBRIA 6IA "ONCAMBI WWWHOTELUMBRIACOM !N EIGHTEEN ROOM TWO STAR WITH PRICES ONLY A WHISKER HIGHER THAN THE ONE STAR ESTABLISHMENTS LISTED ABOVE ROOMS VARY n SOME ARE CRAMPED n AND COME WITH AND WITHOUT PRIVATE BATH "REAKFAST IS POOR
(OSTELS #ENTRO )NTERNAZIONALE DI !CCOGLIENZA PER LA 'IOVENTá 6IA "ONTEMPI WWWOSTELLOPERUGIAIT 4HE TOWNS ORIGINAL HOS TEL PERFECTLY SITUATED TWO MINUTES FROM THE $UOMO HAS BEDS IN FOUR SIX AND EIGHT BED DORMS AND A MIDNIGHT CURFEW #LOSED AMnPM $ORM BEDS + PLUS + FOR SHEETS IF YOU DONT HAVE SUITABLE SLEEPING BAG OR SHEET SLEEPING BAG /STELLO PER LA 'IOVENTá -ARIA ,UISA 3PAG NOLI ,OCALITÌ 0IAN DI -ASSIANO WWWUMBRIAHOSTELSORG ! NEWER HOSTEL DOWN NEAR THE MAIN &3 TRAIN STATION WITH ITS OWN RESTAU RANT AND SLEEPING IN FOUR AND SIX BED DORMS $ORM BEDS +
#AMPSITES
0ERUGIAS CAMPSITES )L 2OCOLO 3TRADA &ONTANA N WWW ILROCOLOIT !PRIL TO MID /CT AND 0ARADIS D³TÏ 6IA DEL -ERCATO A 3TRADA &ONTANA WWWWELLIT -ARCHn/CT ARE KM WEST OF TOWN AT ,OCALITÌ #OLLE DELLA 4RINITÌ "Y CAR THERE ARE SIGNS OFF THE 33BIS ROAD "Y BUS TAKE EITHER THE 3ULGA SERVICE FROM 0ERUGIAS 0IAZZA )TALIA MARKED h#OLLE DELLA 4RINITÌv OR BUS FROM THE STATION FROM THE #OLLE DELLA 4RINITÌ STOP THE CAMPSITES ARE A SHORT WALK UPHILL
#ORSO 6ANNUCCI AND 0IAZZA )6 .OVEMBRE -EDIEVAL 0ERUGIA HINGES AROUND THE #ORSO 6ANNUCCI ONE OF )TALYS GREAT PEOPLE WATCHING STREETS ITS BROAD EXPANSE PACKED FROM DAWN TO THE EARLY HOURS WITH A PARADE OF 5MBRIAS SHOPPERS STUDENTS STYLE MAKERS AND FOLLOWERS .AMED AFTER THE CITYS MOST CELEBRATED ARTIST 0IETRO 6ANNUCCI BETTER KNOWN SIMPLY AS 0ERUGINO THE STREET HAS SEVERAL OF THE CITYS KEY SIGHTS MOST NOTABLY THE 0ALAZZO DEI 0RIORI STILL THE HOME OF THE CITYS COUNCIL AS WELL AS THE CITYS LOVELIEST CAFÏ 0ASTICCERIA 3ANDRI SEE P !T ITS NORTHERN END THE #ORSO BROADENS SLIGHTLY TO BECOME THE MEDIEVAL 0IAZZA )6 .OVEMBRE FORMER SITE OF A 2OMAN RESERVOIR /N ONE SIDE OF THE SQUARE IS THE 0ALAZZO DEI 0RIORIS NORTHERN mANK ON THE OTHER IS THE $UOMO THE RELIGIOUS COUNTERPOINT TO THE PALAZZO !T THE PIAZZAS CENTRE IS PERHAPS THE MOST GRACEFUL FOUNTAIN IN )TALY THE &ONTANA -AGGIORE STUNNINGLY RESTORED TO AS NEAR A PRISTINE STATE AS ITS YEAR OLD SCULPTURES ALLOW
0ERUGIA MUSEUM PASS 4HE #ARD 0ERUGIA #ITTÌ -USEO IS A PASS IN A VARIETY OF TIME AND PRICE BANDS THAT OFFERS ENTRY TO THE #APPELLA DI 3AN 3EVERO 'ALLERIA .AZIONALE DELL5MBRIA -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO DELL5MBRIA -USEO #APITOLARE DELLA #ATTEDRALE DI 3AN ,ORENZO -USEO DELLE 0ORTE E -URA 5RBICHE #OLLEGIO DI #AMBIO #OLLEGIO DELLA -ERCANZIA 0ALAZZO "ALDESCHI AL #ORSO 0OZZO %TRUSCO )POGEO DEI 6OLUMNI #ENTRO 3ERVIZI -USEALI DELLA 2OCCA 0AOLINA AND 0ALAZZO DELLA 0ENNA 4HERE ARE FOUR DIFFERENT PASSES ! + VALID FOR A DAY AND A CHOICE OF FOUR SIGHTS " + VALID THREE DAYS FOR ALL SIGHTS # + VALID FOR A YEAR FOR ALL SIGHTS AND # + VALID FOR A FAMILY OF FOUR FOR ALL SIGHTS FOR YEAR 4HE PASSES ARE AVAILABLE FROM ALL PARTICIPATING SIGHTS
4HE &ONTANA -AGGIORE
4HE NORTHERN END OF THE #ORSO IS DOMINATED BY THE GAUNT BULK OF THE 0AL AZZO DEI 0RIORI WITH ITS MAJESTIC 'OTHIC DOORWAY ROWS OF TREFOIL WINDOWS FROM WHICH CONVICTED CRIMINALS WERE THROWN TO THEIR DEATHS AND BUSINESSLIKE 'UELPH CRENELLATIONS /FTEN CITED AS )TALYS MOST IMPRESSIVE CIVIC PALACE ITS CERTAINLY ONE OF THE LARGEST IT WAS BEGUN IN BY TWO LOCAL ARCHITECTS AND COMPLETED IN ITS IMPRESSIVE EFFECT DERIVING AS MUCH FROM ITS SHEER BULK AS THE HARMONIOUS BEAUTY CREATED BY THE BUILDINGS AROUND IT &OUR SEPARATE SIGHTS ARE HIDDEN WITHIN ITS PRECINCTS THE 3ALA DEI .OTARI 3ALA DEL #OLLEGIO DELLA -ERCANZIA #OLLEGIO DEL #AMBIO AND n THE STAR TURN n THE 'ALLE
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4HE 0ALAZZO DEI 0RIORI
0% 25') ! !.$ ./ 24 ( % 2 . 5 - " 2 ) ! #ORSO 6ANNUCCI AND 0IAZZA )6 .OVEMBRE
4HE &ONTANA -AGGIORE HAS QUITE A PEDIGREE IT WAS DESIGNED IN BY &RA "EVIGNATE THE 3ILVESTRINE MONK WHO HAD A HAND IN SHAPING /RVIETOS CATHEDRAL AND SCULPTED BY THE FATHER AND SON TEAM OF .ICOLA AND 'IOVANNI 0ISANO POSSI BLY WITH HELP FROM !RNOLFO DI #AMBIO )T WAS INSTALLED TO RECEIVE THE WATER FROM THE TOWNS NEW AQUEDUCT A lVE KILOMETRE AFFAIR DESIGNED BY A LEADING HYDRAU LIC ENGINEER OF THE AGE THE 6ENETIAN "ONINSEGNA (OWEVER AS THE CHRONICLER "ONAZZI OBSERVED hBEASTS BARRELS AND UNWASHED POTS AND UNCLEAN HANDS WERE FORBIDDEN THE USE OF THE WATER AND INDEED IT WAS GUARDED WITH SUCH JEALOUS CARE THAT IT SEEMED AS THOUGH THE PEOPLE OF 0ERUGIA HAD BUILT THEIR FOUNTAIN FOR THE SAKE OF BEAUTY ONLYv 4HE SCULPTURES AND BAS RELIEFS ON THE TWO POLYGONAL BASINS WERE PART OF A CAREFULLY CONCEIVED DECORATIVE SCHEME DESIGNED TO ILLUSTRATE THE CITYS GLORY AND ACHIEVEMENTS "Y SOME CANNY CALCULATION NONE OF THEM LINE UP DIRECTLY ENCOURAGING YOU TO WALK AROUND THE FOUNTAIN CHASING A POINT OF REPOSE THAT NEVER COMES 4HE LOWER BASIN HAS DOUBLE RELIEFS TWELVE SHOWING THE ,ABOURS OF THE -ONTHS TOGETHER WITH THE APPROPRIATE SIGN OF THE ZODIAC n $ECEMBERS PIG STICKING IS PARTICULARLY GRAPHIC 4HE REMAINING RELIEFS INCLUDE A LION AND GRIF FON 0ERUGIAS MEDIEVAL SYMBOLS FOUR DOUBLE PANELS DEPICTING THE ,IBERAL !RTS SCENES FROM THE /LD 4ESTAMENT NOTE THE RELIEF OF THE LARGE LION AND SMALLER LION BEING BEATEN AN ALLEGORY EXPOUNDING THE VIRTUES OF PUNISHMENT AND RELIEFS PORTRAYING 2OMAN SCENES AND TWO OF !ESOPS FABLES -OST OF THE UPPER BASIN STATUES ARE BY 'IOVANNI 0ISANO AND DEPICT A WIDE RANGE OF CHARACTERS AMONG THEM SAINTS /LD 4ESTAMENT HEROES AND A VARIETY OF ALLEGORICAL lGURES REPRESENT ING 6ICTORY 4HEOLOGY AND THE LIKE 'IOVANNI ALSO COMPLETED THE THREE lGURES IN THE BASIN BELIEVED TO REPRESENT THE THREE #ARDINAL 6IRTUES n &AITH (OPE AND #HARITY
RIA .AZIONALE DELL5MBRIA !LL ARE WORTHWHILE BUT ORIENTATION WITHIN THE PALAZZO CAN BE A LITTLE CONFUSING ITS EASIEST TO TACKLE THEM IN THE ORDER GIVEN BELOW 3ALA DEI .OTARI
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\ #ORSO 6ANNUCCI AND 0IAZZA )6 .OVEMBRE
4HE 3ALA DEI .OTARI DAILY AMnPM nPM /CTn-AY CLOSED -ON FREE THE MEDIEVAL LAWYERS MEETING HALL IS ENTERED VIA THE FAN SHAPED STEPS OPPOSITE THE $UOMO )TS AN OBVIOUS POINT OF REFERENCE ITS DOORWAY TOPPED BY COPIES OF A BRONZE 'UELPH LION AND 0ERUGIAN GRIFFON THE ORIGINALS ARE IN THE 'ALLERIA .AZIONALE SEE OPPOSITE /NCE THOUGHT TO BE 2OMAN THE lGURES WERE PROBABLY MADE IN OR MAKING THEM AMONG THE lRST PIECES OF LARGE SCALE CAST ING IN MEDIEVAL )TALY ,ATEST RESEARCH HOWEVER SUGGESTS THE BODY OF THE GRIFFON AT LEAST MAY BE %TRUSCAN THE WINGS HAVING BEEN ADDED DURING THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY CASTING 4HE CHAINS BELOW ACCORDING TO TRADITION WERE SNATCHED FROM THE GATE AND GALLOWS OF 3IENA DURING A RAID IN 4HE TRIPLE ARCHED LOGGIA IS THOUGHT TO BE A REMNANT OF 3AN 3EVERO A CHURCH DEMOLISHED TO MAKE WAY FOR THE PALACE IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY 4HE 3ALA IS ONE OF THE OLDEST PARTS OF THE PALAZZO DATING FROM THE LATE S n ABOUT THE SAME TIME AS THE CIVIC PALACES IN &LORENCE AND 3IENA WERE BEING RAISED )TS A TREMENDOUS SPACE OVERARCHED BY SUPERB VAULTING "EFORE THE LAWYERS GOT THEIR HANDS ON IT IT WAS USED AS A MEETING PLACE FOR THE TOWNSPEOPLE IN TIMES OF CRISIS AND DECISION )TS CELEBRATED FRESCOES HOWEVER WERE SUBSTANTIALLY REPAINTED IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY THE NET RESULT BEING LITTLE MORE THAN mASHES OF COLOUR FANCY mAGS AND SWIRLS 4HEY REPRESENT THE ARMS OF VARIOUS PODESTÌ OR MAGISTRATES OF THE CITY FROM TO INlNITELY DULLER THAN THE HARD TO SEE THIRTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES OF SCENES FROM !ESOPS &ABLES AND THE /LD 4ESTA MENT WHICH ADORN THE UPPER ARCHES 3ALA DEL #OLLEGIO DELLA -ERCANZIA
4HE 3ALA DEL #OLLEGIO DELLA -ERCANZIA -ARCHn/CT -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM REST OF YEAR 4UESn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM + JOINT TICKET WITH #OLLEGIO DI #AMBIO + IS HIDDEN BEHIND AN INCON SPICUOUS DOOR AT NO FARTHER DOWN THE #ORSO SIDE OF THE PALAZZO TO THE RIGHT OF THE MAIN PORTAL 3INCE IT HAS BEEN THE SEAT OF THE MERCHANTS GUILD n THE CITYS MOST IMPORTANT AND A BODY THAT SURVIVES AS A CHARITABLE INSTITUTION TO THIS DAY !T lRST GLANCE IT AMOUNTS TO LITTLE BUT AT CLOSE QUARTERS THE ROOM REVEALS INTRICATELY INLAID WOODEN PANELLING BREATHTAKING lFTEENTH CENTURY WORK THAT IS CONSIDERED SOME OF )TALYS lNEST 4HE #OLLEGIO DEL #AMBIO
4HE #OLLEGIO DEL #AMBIO WHICH LIES A FEW DOORS DOWN AT #ORSO 6ANNUCCI -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM + JOINT TICKET WITH #OLLEGIO DELLA -ERCANZIA + WAS THE HALL OF THE TOWNS MONEYCHANGERS A GUILD FOUNDED IN THAT SURVIVES AS A CHARITABLE BODY TO THIS DAY )TS WALLS ARE COVERED WITH FRESCOES BY 0ERUGINO THESE ARE NOT ONLY CONSIDERED HIS MAS TERPIECES BUT ALSO RECKONED ONE OF THE BEST PRESERVED 2ENAISSANCE SCHEMES IN THE COUNTRY 4HE BANKERS GUILD AWARDED THE COMMISSION IN ABOUT THE SAME TIME AS 0ERUGINO WAS APPROACHED TO FRESCO PART OF THE $UOMO IN /RVIETO AN UNDER TAKING EVENTUALLY EXECUTED BY ,UCA 3IGNORELLI 4HE CITYS BANKERS WERE DETERMINED TO HAVE PAINTINGS COMMENSURATE WITH THEIR OWN SENSE OF SELF IMPORTANCE AND TO THIS END PROBABLY PAID 0ERUGINO n THEN AT THE PEAK OF HIS POWERS n MORE THAN WAS ON OFFER IN /RVIETO 4HIS MOST LIKELY EXPLAINS THE PAINTERS MYSTERIOUS DISAPPEAR ANCE FROM THAT CITY AFTER JUST lVE DESULTORY DAYS WORKING IN THE CATHEDRAL
4HE 'ALLERIA .AZIONALE DELL5MBRIA
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4HE 'ALLERIA .AZIONALE DELL5MBRIA DAILY AMnPM CLOSED lRST -ON OF EVERY MONTH + WWWGALLERIANAZIONALEUMBRIAIT ON THE FOURTH mOOR OF THE PALACE COMPLEX IS THE REGIONS MAIN REPOSITORY OF 5MBRIAN ART )TS ENTRANCE IS THROUGH THE OPULENT DOORWAY ON THE #ORSO HAVING PUSHED PAST HAR ASSED 0ERUGIANS ON THEIR WAY TO DO BATTLE WITH COUNCIL BUREAUCRACY YOU MIGHT WELL lND THE SMALL LIFT ISNT WORKING IN WHICH CASE YOU HAVE TO CLAMBER UP THE STAIRS A ROUTE ONCE TAKEN BY NOBLES ON HORSEBACK $UST HAS NOW SETTLED ON A LONG RESTORATION PROJECT WHICH HAS TURNED THE GALLERY INTO ONE OF CENTRAL )TALYS BEST "E CERTAIN TO FOLLOW THE GALLERYS PRESCRIBED ITINERARY AFTER PASSING THROUGH THE TICKET OFlCE ROTONDA MAKE FOR ROOM STRAIGHT AHEAD AND LEFT &REE GUIDES IN SEVERAL LANGUAGES ARE USUALLY AVAILABLE JUST BEYOND THE TICKET OFlCE .OTE THAT SOME PAINTINGS MAY BE MOVED THE GALLERY SEEMS TO BE IN A CONSTANT STATE OF mUX DESPITE THE RESTORATION AND PLANS ARE IN HAND TO EXTEND THE EXHIBITION SPACE ACROSS THE PALACES LOWER mOORS )N PAST YEARS THERE HAS BEEN SPECIAL SUMMER LATE OPENING MID *UNE TO MID 3EPT UNTIL PM 4HE GALLERY TRACES THE ENTIRE CHRONOLOGY OF THE 5MBRIAN ART CANON FROM ITS "YZANTINE INmUENCED ROOTS ITS PARALLEL DEVELOPMENT WITH THE 3IENESE IN THE THIRTEENTH AND FOURTEENTH CENTURIES THROUGH TO ITS LATE lFTEENTH CENTURY GOLDEN AGE WHEN 0ERUGIA BECAME THE MAIN FOCUS OF ENDEAVOUR 4HE REGIONS PREMIER PAINTERS 0ERUGINO AND 0INTURICCHIO ARE PREDICTABLY WELL COVERED AS ARE THEIR IMITATORS AND ARTISTS WHO WORKED IN A LATE 2ENAISSANCE VEIN AND FALL OUTSIDE THE CONlNES OF THE 5MBRIAN SCHOOL
0% 25') ! !.$ . / 24 ( % 2 . 5 - " 2 ) ! #ORSO 6ANNUCCI AND 0IAZZA )6 .OVEMBRE
(AVING PAID THEIR MONEY THE BANKERS WERE DETERMINED TO IMPOSE UPON THE PAINTER THEIR THEME OF CHOICE &RANCESCO -ATURANZIO A LEADING HUMANIST THEO RIST WAS BROUGHT IN AS CONSULTANT AND PROPOSED A FUSION OF CLASSICAL AND #HRIS TIAN CULTURE PAINTING #HRISTIAN ICONS ALONGSIDE lGURES OF CLASSICAL MYTH 4HOUGH NOT AN UNUSUAL 2ENAISSANCE CONCEIT THE VIGOUR AND UNCOMPROMISING WAY IN WHICH THE THEMES ARE YOKED TOGETHER CREATED A DISTINCTLY CURIOUS JUXTAPOSITION 4HE THESIS INTENDED TO SUGGEST THAT THERE WAS UNITY IN VARIETY AND THAT HUMAN PERFECTION EXPRESSED BY CLASSICAL ART WAS OBTAINABLE THROUGH #HRISTS EXAMPLE 7HATEVER THE METAPHYSICAL INTENT THE FRESCOES CERTAINLY SUCCEED AESTHETICALLY UNIlED BY 0ERUGINOS MELANCHOLY TONE IDEALIZED AND SOFT FOCUS lGURES AND MEL LOW LANDSCAPES 4HE PAINTINGS COVER VIRTUALLY ALL THE WALLS AND CEILING VAULTS OF THE SINGLE ROOM PART OF WHICH n PROBABLY THE PROPHETS AND SIBYLS ON THE RIGHT HAND WALL BEHIND THE TICKET DESK n WAS PAINTED BY 0ERUGINOS PUPIL 2APHAEL THEN ONLY ABOUT YEARS OLD 5P ON THE DOOR SIDE WALL THERES A FAMOUS BUT UNREMARKABLE SELF PORTRAIT OF THE MASTER LOOKING ON WITH SOUR FACED DISAPPROVAL n IRONICALLY THE ONLY ELEMENT DISTURBING THE FRESCOES BEAUTIFUL EVENNESS OF TONE 4HE CEILING VAULTS ILLUSTRATE THE MAIN GODS OF THE CLASSICAL WORLD !POLLO ON HIS CHARIOT AT THE CENTRE 3ATURN *UPITER AND -ARS ABOVE THE #ORSO WALL -ERCURY 6ENUS AND $IANA TOWARDS THE WINDOW 2IGHT OF THE WINDOW ARE PORTRAITS OF FAMOUS 'REEKS AND 2OMANS REAL AND MYTHICAL WITH THE ALLEGORICAL lGURES OF 0RUDENCE AND *USTICE JOINED BY #ATO SYMBOL OF 7ISDOM AND WITH 3OCRATES AND 4RAJAN AMONG OTHERS BELOW 4HE END WALL FARTHEST FROM THE ENTRANCE INTRODUCES THE #HRISTIAN STRAND WITH A .ATIVITY AND THE 4RANSlGURATION CLEANED AFTER HAVING BEEN BLACKENED BY SMOKE FROM THE ROOMS FORMER OIL LAMPS 4HE RIGHT HAND WALL SHOWS 'OD AMONGST THE ANGELS WITH SIBYLS TO THE RIGHT AND MEN TO THE LEFT )SAAC -OSES $ANIEL POSSIBLY A PORTRAIT OF 2APHAEL $AVID *EREMIAH AND 3OLOMON 4HE LOVELY LITTLE CHAPEL TO THE REAR THE #APPELLA DI 3AN 'IOVANNI "ATTISTA IS SMOTHERED IN A FRESCOED ,IFE OF *OHN THE "APTIST n BY 'IOVANNI DI 0AOLO n LIKE 2APHAEL A FORMER PUPIL OF 0ERUGINO
%ARLY 5MBRIAN AND 3IENESE SCHOOLS
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\ #ORSO 6ANNUCCI AND 0IAZZA )6 .OVEMBRE
3OME OF THE GALLERYS lNEST MOMENTS HAVE NOTHING TO DO WITH INDIGENOUS PAINT ERS 4HIS IS PARTICULARLY TRUE OF EARLY ROOMS WHERE THE 3IENESE LARGELY HOLD SWAY !MONGST A WELTER OF ANONYMOUS WORKS THE lRST HIGHLIGHT IS A LARGE #RUCIlXION BY THE SO CALLED -AESTRO DI 3AN &RANCESCO ONE OF THE GALLERYS EARLIEST PIECES AND PAINTED BY THE ANONYMOUS HAND BELIEVED TO BE RESPONSIBLE FOR SOME OF THE SUPERLATIVE FRESCOES IN THE NAVE OF THE ,OWER #HURCH IN !SSISIS "ASILICA DI 3AN &RANCESCO !LSO LOOK OUT FOR AN OUTSTANDING -ADONNA AND !NGELS BY $UC CIO n ITS STATIC BEAUTY THE OBVIOUS MODEL FOR MANY OF THE 5MBRIAN WORKS THAT FOLLOW /THER NAMED 3IENESE MASTERS INCLUDE "ARTOLOMEO DA 3IENA $OMENICO DI "ARTOLO AND 4ADDEO DI "ARTOLO THE LAST RESPONSIBLE HERE FOR THREE ALTARPIECES INCLUDING A 0ENTECOST THAT DISPLAYS A RADICAL APPROACH TO COMPOSITION AT ODDS WITH THE MORE CONSERVATIVE 5MBRIANS TO COME )N ACKNOWLEDGING THE INCREASING INmUENCE OF 4USCAN PAINTERS ON 5MBRIANS AS THE lFTEENTH CENTURY PROGRESSED THE GALLERY ALMOST ALLOWS A PAIR OF PAINTINGS BY OUTSIDERS TO STEAL THE SHOW /NE IS AN ASTOUNDING TRIPTYCH BY &RA !NGELICO THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH !NGELS AND 3AINTS 2ADIANT WITH THE PAINTERS GORGEOUS SWATHES OF BLUE IT WAS PAINTED IN FOR 0ERUGIAS CHURCH OF 3AN $OMENICO 4HE OTHER IS MORE EXTRAORDINARY STILL 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCAS SENSATIONAL POLYPTYCH OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD AND 33 !NTHONY OF 0ADUA AND *OHN THE "APTIST WITH 33 &RANCIS AND %LIZABETH OF (UNGARY EXECUTED FOR 0ERUGIAS 3ANT!NTONIO MONASTERY BETWEEN AROUND AND ABOUT THE TIME OF HIS !REZZO CYCLE )TS FULL OF ECCENTRIC COMPOSITIONAL NUANCES PARTICULARLY IN THE SMALL !NNUNCIA TION HINGED TO THE TOP OF THE MAIN PAINTING IN WHICH A MANNERED SUCCESSION OF ARCHES AROUND THE 6IRGIN RECEDES INTO A BLANK WALL 4HE PREDELLA DEPICTS MIRACLES PERFORMED BY THE SAINTS IN THE MAIN PAINTING $OZENS OF ANONYMOUS EARLY lFTEENTH CENTURY 5MBRIAN WORKS FOLLOW AMOUNT ING IN MANY CASES TO NO MORE THAN A SURFEIT OF THE RELIGIOUS ICONOGRAPHY THAT lLLS 5MBRIAN PAINTINGS WITHOUT THE REDEEMING DULCET QUALITIES OF THE 3IENESE 4HE BETTER OF THE 5MBRIANS ARE -ATTEO DA 'UALDO AND .ICOLÛ !LUNNO THE LATTER REPRESENTED BY A GONFALONE OR PAINTED BANNER A GENRE LATER TO BECOME THE SPECIAL PRESERVE OF 0ERUGIAN PAINTERS !LUNNOS BANNER HANGS NEXT TO A SIMILAR WORK BY "ENEDETTO "ONlGLI AN IMPORTANT MID PERIOD 5MBRIAN PAINTER WHO IS ALSO REPRESENTED BY A SUPERB !NNUNCIATION AND 3T ,UCA MORE SIGNIlCANTLY HE DECORATED THE PALAZZOS CHAPEL BETWEEN AND WITH SURVIVING FRAGMEN TARY EPISODES FROM THE LIFE OF %RCOLANO AND ,OUIS OF 4OULOUSE 0ERUGIAS PATRON SAINTS 4HE FRESCOES PROVIDE A DETAILED PICTURE OF ASPECTS OF lFTEENTH CENTURY 0ERUGIA n WALLS TOWERS AND MONUMENTS n THAT HAVE NOW LARGELY VANISHED 0ERUGINO AND THE 2ENAISSANCE
(ERALDED BY A BEVY OF 0ERUGIAN CONTEMPORARIES 0ERUGINO MARKS THE APOTHE OSIS OF THE 5MBRIAN SCHOOL !BOUT A DOZEN SUBLIME WORKS HERE ENCAPSULATE HIS IMMENSE OUTPUT LITTLE CAN DETRACT FROM THE ART OF A PAINTER TALKED OF BY HIS CONTEMPORARIES IN THE SAME BREATH AS -ICHELANGELO AND ,EONARDO DA 6INCI 4HE LOVELIEST PAINTING IS PROBABLY THE -ADONNA DELLA #ONSOLAZIONE n A WORK WHOSE IMAGERY AND BRAVURA TECHNIQUE UNDERLINE JUST HOW MUCH 2APHAEL 0ERUGINOS PUPIL WOULD TAKE FROM HIS MASTER !LMOST EQUALLY lNE ARE TWO EARLIER PIECES PAINTED AROUND A 0IETÌ AND !DORATION OF THE -AGI 4HE SECOND RANKED 5MBRIAN AND 0ERUGINOS OCCASIONAL COLLABORATOR 0INTU RICCHIO IS NOT SO WELL REPRESENTED SAVE FOR THE GARGANTUAN 0ALA DI 3ANTA -ARIA DEI &OSSI WIDELY CONSIDERED ONE OF THE MASTERPICES OF THE 5MBRIAN CANON 4HIS ASIDE HOWEVER THERE IS LITTLE HERE TO COMPARE WITH THE ARTISTS FRESCOES OF 3PELLOS 3ANTA -ARIA -AGGIORE SEE P OR THE WORKS IN 3IENAS
0ICCOLOMINI LIBRARY SEE P /THER ROOMS CONTAIN PERFECTLY GOOD WORKS BY FOLLOWERS OF 0ERUGINO NAMES TO LOOK OUT FOR ARE 3INIBALDO )BI 'IANNICOLA DI 0AOLO AND %USEBIO DI 3AN 'IORGIO ALL mUENT INTERPRETERS OF 0ERUGINOS MERGING OF 5MBRIAN AND &LORENTINE TRADITIONS 4HE REST OF THE GALLERY PLOUGHS A REMORSELESS COURSE THROUGH SEVENTEENTH TO NINETEENTH CENTURY 5MBRIAN OFFERINGS MOST OF THEM LARGE GLOOMY CANVASES
4HE $UOMO
4HROUGH THE CATHEDRAL SACRISTY OR IF ITS CLOSED THROUGH A COURTYARD TO THE LEFT OF THE ENTRANCE ARE THE CLOISTERS AND -USEO #APITOLARE OR -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM + INAUGURATED IN ON THE FOUR HUNDREDTH ANNIVERSARY OF 0ERUGINOS DEATH )T IS A RICH TREASURY
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4HE -USEO #APITOLARE DELLA #ATTEDRALE DI 3AN ,ORENZO
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0IAZZA )6 .OVEMBRE IS BACKED BY THE PLAIN FACED $UOMO OR #ATTEDRALE DI 3AN ,ORENZO -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM nPM FREE 4HERES BEEN A CHURCH ON THIS SITE FOR A THOUSAND YEARS BUT THE CORNERSTONE FOR THE PRESENT BUILDING WAS LAID IN THOUGH THE "LACK $EATH ALMOST IMMEDIATELY INTERRUPTED SUBSEQUENT CONSTRUCTION -OST OF THE BUILDING WAS COMPLETED LATE IN THE FOLLOWING CENTURY AND EVEN THEN THE FACADE WHICH IS IN THE LOVELY PINK STONE OF MOST LOCAL TOWNS WAS LEFT UNlNISHED 4AK ING A PRAGMATIC APPROACH TO THE PROBLEM THE 0ERUGIANS STOLE THE MARBLE FACING INTENDED FOR !REZZOS CATHEDRAL THOUGH A SUBSEQUENT HAMMERING FROM !REZZO BROUGHT ABOUT ITS SHAME FACED RETURN 4O THE RIGHT OF THE PORTAL IS A BRONZE STATUE OF 0OPE *ULIUS ))) BY 6INCENZO $ANTI AND TO THE LEFT AN UNlNISHED PULPIT BUILT FOR THE ROVING 3T "ERNARDINO OF 3IENA WHO WAS SOMETHING OF A HIT WITH THE 0ERUGIANS )T WAS HERE THAT HE PREACHED A "ONlRE OF THE 6ANITIES URGING WOMEN TO BURN THEIR WIGS AND EVERYONE ELSE TO GIVE UP BOOKS lNE CLOTHES AND GENERAL GOOD TIMES 4O THE LEFT ARE REMAINS OF THE ,OGGIA &ORTEBRACCIO TAKEN FROM THE HOUSE OF THE CITYS ONE TIME RULER 4HE "AROQUE INTERIOR IS IMPOSING ENOUGH THOUGH SHORT ON ARTWORKS )TS PRIDE AND JOY IS THE 6IRGINS hWEDDING RINGv A NOVEL RELIC HOUSED IN THE #AP PELLA DEL 3ANT!NELLO lRST CHAPEL ON THE LEFT !N UNWIELDY PIECE OF AGATE SAID TO CHANGE COLOUR ACCORDING TO THE CHARACTER OF THE PERSON WEARING IT THE RING WAS STOLEN BY THE 0ERUGIANS FROM #HIUSI IN AND ENCASED IN A SERIES OF lFTEEN BOXES lTTED LIKE 2USSIAN DOLLS ITS BROUGHT OUT FOR PUBLIC EDIlCATION ONCE A YEAR ON *ULY %MBEDDED IN THE WALL NEARBY ARE FRAGMENTS OF AN ALTAR BY !GOSTINO DI $UCCIO NEXT TO THEM IS A LOVELY PAINTING BY "ERTO DI 'IOVANNI SHOWING S 0ERUGIA IN THE BACKGROUND WITH A SMALL LUNETTE ABOVE BY 'IANNICOLA DI 0AOLO )N THE RIGHT AISLE THE lRST CHAPEL CLOSED BY AN IRON SCREEN CONTAINS A WIDELY ADMIRED $EPOSITION PAINTED IN BY "AROCCI APPARENTLY UNDER THE INmUENCE OF POISON ADMINISTERED BY A JEALOUS RIVAL -ORE TOXIN RELATED MEMENTOS ARE CONTAINED IN THE TRANSEPTS WHERE URNS HOLD THE ASHES OF 0OPE -ARTIN )6 WHO DIED IN THE CITY AFTER EATING TOO MANY EELS AND 5RBAN )6 WHO WAS REPUTEDLY POISONED WITH AQUETTA AN IMAGINATIVE LITTLE BREW MADE BY RUBBING ARSENIC INTO PORK FAT AND DISTILLING THE RESULTANT OOZE 4HE MOST CONSPICUOUS PIECE OF ART IS THE -ADONNA DELLE 'RAZIE ATTRIBUTED TO 'IANNICOLA DI 0AOLO ON THE THIRD PILLAR OF THE RIGHT NAVE %ASILY RECOGNIZED BY ITS TINSELLY VOTIVE OFFERINGS ITS SUPPOSED TO HAVE MIRACULOUS POWERS AND MOTHERS STILL BRING THEIR NEWLY BAPTIZED CHILDREN TO KNEEL BEFORE IT
SCATTERED THROUGH ROOMS WITH SOME lNE EXAMPLES OF THE MINIATURES FOR WHICH MEDIEVAL 0ERUGIA WAS RENOWNED AS WELL AS A -ADONNA AND 3AINTS BY ,UCA 3IGNORELLI AND WORKS BY 5MBRIAN AND 3IENESE MASTERS SUCH AS A lNE TRIPTYCH BY -EO DA 3IENA PANELS BY !NDREA 6ANNI AND A 0IETÌ BY "ARTOLOMEO #APORALI $ESPITE THE LISTED OPENING HOURS NOTE THAT YOU OFTEN HAVE TO APPLY TO THE CATHEDRAL CHAPTERHOUSE FOR ENTRY
7EST AND EAST OF #ORSO 6ANNUCCI
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\ 7EST AND EAST OF #ORSO 6ANNUCCI
&OR A FEEL OF MEDIEVAL 0ERUGIA THE MOST REWARDING STREETS ARE TO THE WEST OF THE #ORSO IN PARTICULAR 6IA DEI 0RIORI ENTERED THROUGH THE ARCHWAY IN THE 0ALAZZO DEI 0RIORI 4HIS CURVES DOWNHILL THROUGH A SLICE OF THE OLD CITY TAKING IN A SUC CESSION OF LITTLE CHURCHES AND CULMINATING IN THE /RATORIO DI 3AN "ERNARDINO ONE OF 0ERUGIAS PRIME PIECES OF SCULPTURE %AST OF THE #ORSO THERE ARE A COUPLE OF EXTRA DIVERSIONS n NOT LEAST AN IMPRESSIVE %TRUSCAN WELL AND 2APHAEL FRESCO n IN THE lNE MEDIEVAL QUARTER BEYOND 0IAZZA $ANTI "OTH ROUTES MEET UP AT 0IAZZA &ORTEBRACCIO ACCESS POINT FOR THE CITYS NORTHERN QUARTERS SEE P
7EST OF THE #ORSO 6IA DEI 0RIORI TO 3AN &RANCESCO 4HE STEEPLY SLOPING 6IA DEI 0RIORI IF YOURE TO BELIEVE THE MEDIEVAL CHRONI CLERS WAS A CONDUIT FOR ALMOST CONSTANTLY mOWING RIVERS OF BLOOD FROM THOSE KILLED IN THE VENDETTAS AND INTRIGUES FOR WHICH 0ERUGIA WAS FAMOUS 4HE SIDE STREETS TOO HAVE ASSOCIATIONS WITH 0ERUGIAS GORY PAST NOTABLY 6IA DELLA 'AB BIA THE lRST STREET DOWN ON THE RIGHT WHERE THERE ONCE HUNG A LARGE IRON CAGE USED TO IMPRISON THIEVES AND WAYWARD CLERGYMEN ! JOURNAL WRITTEN IN RECORDS THE FATE OF ONE PRIEST !NGELO DI &EROLO WHO WOUND UP BEHIND ITS BARS h)T WAS VERY COLD AND THERE WAS MUCH SNOW AND HE REMAINED THERE UNTIL THE lRST DAY OF &EBRUARY BOTH NIGHT AND DAY AND THAT SAME DAY HE WAS BROUGHT OUT DEADv 9OU CAN STILL MAKE OUT LONG SPIKES ON SOME OF THE LOWER WALLS OF THE STREET USED FOR THE HEADS OF EXECUTED CRIMINALS *UST BEYOND ON THE LEFT IS THE LITTLE CHURCH OF 33 3EVERO E !GATA DAILY AMnPM nPM FREE WHICH WAS BUILT BETWEEN AND ON THE SITE OF AN EARLIER CHAPEL AND RETAINS A SENSE OF ITS AUSTERE 2OMANESQUE ORIGINS )NSIDE A #RUCIlXION DOMINATES THE ALTAR WALL POSSIBLY FROM THE EARLIER STRUC TURE DISCOVERED DURING RESTORATION WORK IN 4HERE ARE GOOD FRAGMENTS OF TWO FOURTEENTH CENTURY 5MBRIAN SCHOOL FRESCO CYCLES ON THE WEST AND NORTH WALLS THE LATTER n 3CENES FROM THE ,IFE OF 3AN 3EVERO n THE MORE INTELLIGIBLE 3AN &ILIPPO .ERI FARTHER DOWN ON THE RIGHT IS A "AROQUE CHURCH WORTH A LOOK FOR ITS HIGH ALTARPIECE A PAINTING OF THE )MMACULATE #ONCEPTION BY 0IETRO DA #ORTONA A LOCAL STAR WHO WOULD GO ON TO MAKE HIS NAME IN 2OME AND &LORENCE /N THE LEFT OF THE STREET AS YOU DESCEND AT NO IS THE "AR DELL!CCADEMIA SEE P &URTHER DOWN STILL IS THE RARELY OPEN 3ANTI 3TEFANO E 6ALENTINO A LOVELY LITTLE THIRTEENTH CENTURY CHURCH ON THE RIGHT WITH FRAGMENTS OF FRESCOES IT PUTS THE UGLY 3ANTA 4ERESA OPPOSITE TO SHAME .EARBY IS THE UNMISSABLE METRE 4ORRE DEGLI 3CIRI ONE OF THE FEW MEDIEVAL TOWERS THEY REPUTEDLY NUMBERED SEVEN HUNDRED TO HAVE SURVIVED /FF TO THE RIGHT NEAR HERE 6IA DELLA #UPA LEADS OFF TOWARDS 6IA $ELIZIOSA AND SIGNS FOR THE #ASA DI 0ERUGINO AT NO n NOT REALLY WORTH THE DETOUR
%AST OF THE #ORSO
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0IAZZA $ANTI THE PLEASANT LITTLE SQUARE BEHIND THE $UOMO IS THE SCENE OF A WEEKEND mOWER AND TERRACOTTA MARKET AND SITE OF A THIRD CENTURY "# 0OZZO %TRUSCO OR %TRUSCAN WELL ENTERED AT NO !PRILn/CT 7EDn-ON AMn PM nPM ALSO OPEN 4UES IN !PRIL !UG .OVn-ARCH 7EDn -ON AMnPM nPM + INCLUDES ENTRY TO THE #APPELLA DI 3AN 3EVERO AND -USEO DELLE 0ORTE E -URA 5RBICHE WITH A WEEKS VALIDITY WELL WORTH THE FEW MINUTES IT TAKES TO SEE ,ITTLE IN THE DIM ANCIENT ALLEY THAT DROPS TO THE ENTRANCE HINTS AT THE SCALE OF THE STRUCTURE A MASSIVE AFFAIR THAT DRAMATI CALLY ILLUSTRATES THE ENGINEERING AND TECHNICAL SKILLS OF ITS %TRUSCAN BUILDERS )TS LITRE CAPACITY WAS SUFlCIENT TO SUPPLY THE ENTIRE CITY n WATER STILL GATH ERS HERE FROM MOISTURE BEARING STRATA n AND WAS AT LEAST M DEEP THE PRECISE DEPTH IS IMPOSSIBLE TO ASCERTAIN BECAUSE OF DEBRIS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE SHAFT #LOSE BY IS THE CHURCH OF 3AN 3EVERO SAME HOURS AND TICKET AS 0OZZO %TRUSCO THE CHIEF SIGHT OF THIS DISTRICT TAKE 6IA "ONTEMPI OFF THE SQUARE THEN THE TINY STEPPED 6IA 2AFFAELLO CURVING LEFT AND THE CHURCH IS STRAIGHT AHEAD IN 0IAZZA 2AFFAELLO ,EGEND CLAIMS IT WAS BUILT ON THE SITE OF A PAGAN TEMPLE TO THE SUN n THE SPOT IS EAST FACING AND THE TOWNS HIGHEST POINT n WHICH GAVE ITS NAME TO THE 0ORTA 3OLE DISTRICT OF THE %TRUSCAN CITY 4HERE WOULD ONCE HAVE BEEN lVE SUCH DISTRICTS SPREADING DOWN FROM THE TEMPLE TO lVE CORRESPONDING GATES IN THE OUTER WALL -OST OF THE CHURCH IS A "AROQUE REHASH GRAFTED ONTO A BUILDING THAT DATES FROM THOUGH ONE CHAPEL WAS SPARED n A SURVIVOR THAT CONTAINS ONE OF 2APHAELS lRST COMPLETE WORKS A (OLY 4RINITY AND 3AINTS n AND PROBABLY PAINTED SHORTLY BEFORE OR JUST AFTER HE SETTLED
0% 25') ! !.$ . / 24 ( % 2 . 5 - " 2 ) ! 7EST AND EAST OF #ORSO 6ANNUCCI
.EAR THE END OF 6IA DEI 0RIORI COMES -ADONNA DELLA ,UCE n DOMINATED BY A VAULT FRESCOED BY '" #APORALI AND AN ALTARPIECE BY 4IBERIO D!SSISI BOTH ACCOMPLISHED FOLLOWERS OF 0ERUGINO 4HE TINY CHAPEL TAKES ITS NAME h-ADONNA OF THE ,IGHTv FROM AN INCIDENT IN WHEN A YOUNG BAR BER SWORE SO PROFUSELY ON LOSING AT CARDS THAT A -ADONNA IN A WAYSIDE SHRINE CLOSED HER EYES IN HORROR AND KEPT THEM CLOSED FOR FOUR DAYS 4HE MIRACLE INSPIRED CELEBRATIONS PROCESSIONS AND THE BUILDING OF THIS NEW CHURCH )MME DIATELY TO THE LEFT THE 0ORTA 4RASIMENA OR !RCO DI 3AN ,UCA HAS BEEN ONE OF THE PRINCIPAL ENTRANCES TO THE CITY SINCE %TRUSCAN TIMES "EARING RIGHT BEYOND THE -ADONNA DELLA ,UCE BRINGS YOU TO A WELCOMING PATCH OF GRASS OFTEN FREQUENTED BY STUDENTS FROM THE ART SCHOOL NEXT DOOR AND CONVENIENTLY PLACED FOR ADMIRING !GOSTINO DI $UCCIOS COLOURFUL /RATORIO DI 3AN "ERNARDINO DAILY AMnPM nPM FREE )TS RICHLY EMBEL LISHED FACADE IS FAR AND AWAY THE BEST PIECE OF SCULPTURE IN THE CITY AN ODD BUT APPEALING MIX OF BAS RELIEFS AND COLOURED MARBLE COMMISSIONED IN BY THE CITYS MAGISTRATES IN GRATITUDE TO 3T "ERNARDINO FOR TRYING TO BRING PEACE TO 0ERUGIA 4HE DETAIL OF THE CARVING WARRANTS A CLOSE LOOK ESPECIALLY THE LOWER FRIEZE DEPICTING THE "ONlRE OF THE 6ANITIES n A PILE OF 0ERUGIAN WIGS BOOKS AND HOSIERY ELICITED BY THE SAINTS PREACHING 4HE CHURCH INTERIOR IS INFREQUENTLY OPEN BUT CONTAINS THE TOMB OF &RA !NGELO WHO ORDERED THE ORATORYS CONSTRUC TION AND A HIGH ALTAR FASHIONED FROM A FOURTH CENTURY #HRISTIAN SARCOPHAGUS !LONGSIDE IS WHATS LEFT OF 3AN &RANCESCO "ERNARDINOS LODGING IN THE CITY AND IN ITS TIME 0ERUGIAS MOST SUMPTUOUS CHURCH 3TARTED JUST FOUR YEARS AFTER &RANCISS DEATH IN ITS BEEN LAID LOW BY EARTHQUAKES AND LANDSLIPS THOUGH THE CURIOUSLY JUMBLED FACADE IS STILL JUST ABOUT STANDING AND THE INTERIOR IS OFTEN USED AS A CONCERT HALL &ROM 3AN &RANCESCO 6IA !LESSANDRO 0ASCOLI LEADS EAST TO 0IAZZA &ORTEBRACCIO SEE P
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IN &LORENCE IN 4HE FRESCO AS OFTEN IN PAINTINGS OF THE 4RINITY IS ON THREE LEVELS THOUGH THE UPPER LEVEL n 'OD THE &ATHER n IS MISSING .OTICE THE lGURE OF #HRIST WHOSE NUDITY ECHOES THE NUDITY OF THE HEROES OF #LASSICAL ART AND WHICH SHOWS THE YOUNG 2APHAELS ASSIMILATION OF NEW 2ENAISSANCE NOTIONS 4HE PAINTER WAS SUMMONED TO 2OME TO WORK IN THE 6ATICAN AND NEVER COMPLETED THE PICTURE IN A POIGNANT PIECE OF ARTISTIC IRONY THE LOWER PANELS DEPICTING 3IX 3AINTS WERE PAINTED IN BY 0ERUGINO THEN IN HIS DOTAGE A YEAR AFTER THE DEATH OF HIS ERSTWHILE PUPIL 0ERUGINOS WORK SHOWS HIM AT HIS MOST STILTED AN ARTIST WHO FOUND A WINNING FORMULA FROM WHICH HE NEVER MOVED ON EVEN IN OLD AGE 2APHAELS DEBT TO HIS MASTER IS OBVIOUS BUT EVEN AS A mEDGLING TALENT IN THIS FRESCO HE DEMONSTRATES HIS MORE DYNAMIC APPROACH NOT LEAST IN THE ARRANGEMENT OF HIS lGURES WHERE 0ERUGINOS SAINTS STAND IN A LINE FACE ON 2APHAELS lGURES ARE ARRANGED FACING OUT OR SIDEWAYS CREATING A MORE DRAMATIC COMPOSITIONAL EFFECT &ROM 3AN 3EVERO ITS EASY TO CONTINUE TO 0IAZZA &ORTEBRACCIO BY WAY OF 3ANTA -ARIA .UOVA A SPRAWLING AND MUCH KNOCKED ABOUT CHURCH RECENTLY RESTORED MORE OR LESS TO ITS ORIGINAL 'OTHIC APPEARANCE TO REACH IT RETURN TO 6IA "ON TEMPI AND TURN LEFT DOWNHILL )TS MAIN POINT OF INTEREST IS THE GONFALONE IN THE SECOND CHAPEL ON THE RIGHT CREATED IN BY "ONlGLI IT FEATURES A VIEW OF 0ERUGIA UNDER ATTACK FROM DIVINE THUNDERBOLTS 6IA 0INTURICCHIO HEADS ON TO 0IAZZA &ORTEBRACCIO )N THE AREA ABOVE HERE THE 0ORTA 3OLE PROPER THERE ONCE STOOD THE PALACE OF #ARDINAL -ONTEMAGGIORE OF #LUNY THE CITYS PAPAL GOVERNOR FROM 4HOUGH HIS RESIDENCE WAS DESCRIBED BY CONTEMPORARIES AS THE MOST BEAUTIFUL IN )TALY HE WAS HATED BY THE LOCALS DESCRIBED AS hTHAT &RENCH 6ANDAL THAT MOST INIQUITOUS .EROv n PERHAPS BECAUSE HE REMOVED BITS OF THE $UOMO TO AID CONSTRUCTION OF THE PALACE 7ITHIN THREE YEARS A REVOLT AND SIEGE HAD SENT HIM SCURRYING AND THE PALACE WAS REDUCED TO RUBBLE BY A VAST CATAPULT DUBBED THE CACCIAPRETE OR PRIEST HUNTER
\ 4HE NORTHERN QUARTERS
4HE NORTHERN QUARTERS 4HE NORTHERN QUARTERS OF THE CENTRO STORICO START AT 0IAZZA &ORTEBRACCIO TEN MINUTES WALK DOWNHILL FROM 0IAZZA )6 .OVEMBRE AND A SIMILAR DISTANCE FROM 3AN &RANCESCO AND 3ANTA -ARIA .UOVA 4HE lRST ROUTE FOLLOWS 0ERUGIAS OLDEST STREET THE YEAR OLD 6IA 5LISSE 2OCCHI THE SECOND PASSES THE MODERN UNIVERSITY BUILDINGS AND GOES UNDER THE FAMOUS RAISED WALKWAY OF 6IA DEL !CQUEDOTTO (OWEVER THE BEST WAY TO TACKLE THIS NORTHERN PART OF THE CITY IS ACTUALLY TO USE THIS WALKWAY n THE VIEWS ARE GREAT AND THERES NO TRAFlC )T CAN BE PICKED UP OFF 6IA "ALDESCHI JUST NORTH OF 0IAZZA )6 .OVEMBRE OR FROM JUST SOUTHWEST OF 0IAZZA &ORTEBRACCIO "Y FOLLOWING ITS CONTINUATION 6IA DEL &AGIANO YOU CAN WALK IF YOU WISH AS FAR AS THE MIDWAY POINT OF #ORSO 'ARIBALDI NEAR 3ANT!GNESE &AILING THAT WALK NORTH FROM 0IAZZA &ORTEBRACCIO AND USE IT TO RETURN TO THE CITY CENTRE FROM 3ANT!NGELO THE BEST OF THE RATHER LACKLUSTRE SIGHTS IN THE NORTHERN QUARTERS THE CHURCH IS WELL WORTH THE WALK IF ONLY TO HAVE A PICNIC OR SNOOZE IN ITS GROUNDS
0IAZZA &ORTEBRACCIO AND 3ANT!GOSTINO
5NLOVELY 0IAZZA &ORTEBRACCIO IS DOMINATED BY THE !RCO DI !UGUSTO OR !RCO %TRUSCO A MASSIVE GATEWAY WHOSE LOWEST SECTION REPRESENTS ONE OF THE FEW REMAINING MONUMENTS TO %TRUSCAN 0ERUGIA )T DATES FROM THE SECOND CENTURY
3ANT!NGELO
4HE SOUTHERN QUARTERS 0ERUGIAS OTHER HIGHLIGHTS ARE GROUPED TOGETHER ON THE SOUTHERN SIDE OF TOWN ALONG #ORSO #AVOUR THE BUSY MAIN ROAD OUT OF TOWN TOWARDS !SSISI WHICH
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!T THE END OF #ORSO 'ARIBALDI TUCKED INTO THE NORTHERN CORNER OF THE WALLS IS THE CIRCULAR 3ANT!NGELO 4UESn3UN AMnNOON PMnDUSK FREE FOUNDED IN THE lFTH CENTURY AS A TEMPLE TO 3T -ICHAEL THE !RCHANGEL HENCE h!NGELOv /NE OF THE OLDEST CHURCHES IN 5MBRIA n 3POLETOS 3AN 3ALVATORE JUST PIPS IT FOR ANTIQUITY n IT WAS PROBABLY BUILT ON THE SITE OF A 2OMAN TEMPLE ITS TWO RINGS OF PILLARS DERIVING FROM AN EARLIER BUILDING THERE WAS ONCE A THIRD SET REMOVED TO BUILD THE CHURCH OF 3AN 0IETRO SEE P &URTHER EVIDENCE OF A PAGAN PREDECESSOR LURKS IN THE HIGH ALTAR WHICH IS COBBLED TOGETHER FROM 2OMAN FRAGMENTS )N A TOUCH OF DECORATIVE SUBTLETY ALL THE COLUMNS OF THE INNER RING ARE MADE FROM A DIFFERENT TYPE OF STONE BUT OTHERWISE THE CHURCH IS BEAU TIFULLY PLAIN ITS "AROQUE ADDITIONS HAVING BEEN STRIPPED AWAY 4HE SETTING TOO IS DELIGHTFUL A GRASSY AND TRANQUIL RETREAT THE SHADE OF THE WALLS AND CYPRESSES OUTSIDE PROVIDING A FAVOURITE SIESTA SPOT 6IRTUALLY ALONGSIDE THE CHURCH IS THE -USEO DELLE 0ORTE E DELLE -URA 5RBICHE !PRILn/CT 7EDn-ON AMnPM nPM PLUS 4UES IN !PRIL !UG .OVn-ARCH 7EDn-ON AMnPM nPM + INCLUDES ENTRY TO 0OZZO %TRUSCO AND #APPELLA DI 3AN 3EVERO WITH A WEEKS VALIDITY )T IS HOUSED IN THE 0ORTA 3ANT!NGELO BUILT IN THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY AND THE LARGEST OF 0ERUGIAS MEDIEVAL GATEWAYS 4HE SMALL MUSEUM DETAILS THE HISTORY OF THE CITYS WALLS GATEWAYS AND OTHER FORTIlCATIONS BUT PERHAPS THE BEST MOMENT COMES WITH THE SUPERB VIEW FROM THE TOP OF THE GATES TOWER
0% 25') ! !.$ . / 24 ( % 2 . 5 - " 2 ) ! 4HE SOUTHERN QUARTERS
"# WHEN IT WAS THE MAIN ENTRANCE TO THE CITY 4HE UPPER ARCH AND BULWARKS WERE ADDED BY THE 2OMANS WHEN THEY RECAPTURED THE CITY IN "# UNDER THE ARCH YOU CAN STILL SEE THE LETTERS SPELLING OUT ITS NEW NAME !UGUSTA 0ERUSIA n THE lRST PART IMMODESTLY LARGE THE LATTER CONSIDERABLY SMALLER 4HE TOP STOREY LOGGIA IS A SIXTEENTH CENTURY ADDITION /N THE WESTERN SIDE OF THE SQUARE HOUSED IN THE 0ALAZZO 'ALLENGA IS THE 5NIVERSITÌ )TALIANA PER 3TRANIERI FOUNDED IN AND NOW A FAVOURITE OF FOREIGN STUDENTS KEEN TO BONE UP ON )TALIAN ART LANGUAGE AND CULTURE ! SHORT WALK NORTH ALONG #ORSO 'ARIBALDI BRINGS YOU OUT TO THE HALF DEFUNCT CHURCH OF 3ANT!GOSTINO -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMn FREE ORIGINALLY 2OMANESQUE NOW BOTCHED "AROQUE AND lLLED WITH WISTFUL SIGNS EXPLAINING WHICH PAINTINGS lNE WORKS BY 0ERUGINO AND OTHERS USED TO HANG IN THE CHURCH BEFORE THEY WERE SPIRITED TO &RANCE BY LIGHT lNGERED .APOLEONIC TROOPS 4HE MISSING PICTURES HAVE BEEN REPLACED WITH PRETTY POOR MODERN ART 4HE CHURCH HOWEVER IS NOT ENTIRELY RUINED THERES A BEAUTIFUL CHOIR PROBABLY BASED ON DRAWINGS BY 0ERUGINO AND PATCHES OF FRESCO IN THE SECOND AND THIRD CHAPELS OF THE NORTH LEFT HAND WALL GIVING A TANTALIZING IDEA OF WHAT THE PLACE MUST ONCE HAVE BEEN LIKE "ETTER STILL IS THE FRESCO -ADONNA DELLE 'RAZIE ATTRIBUTED TO 'IANNICOLO DI 0AOLO IN THE GLASSED OFF lRST CHAPEL ON THE SOUTH WALL !DJOINING THE CHURCH IS THE lFTEENTH CENTURY /RATORIO DI 3ANT!GOSTINO ITS LUDICROUSLY ORNATE CEILING ERUPTING IN GILT STUCCO AND CHUBBY PLASTER CHERUBS )TS ENTERED FROM THE PIAZZA 3ANT!GOSTINOS SACRISTAN SHOULD OPEN UP IF YOU ASK
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\ 4HE SOUTHERN QUARTERS
YOU CAN ACCESS BY WALKING DOWN FROM THE NINETEENTH CENTURY 0IAZZA )TALIA ACROSS 6IA "AGLIONI AND THE STEPPED ALLEY OFF 6IA /BERDAN UNDER THE !RCO DI 3ANT%RCOLANO %N ROUTE YOULL PASS THE STRANGE OCTAGONAL CHURCH OF 3ANT%RCOLANO NOW A WAR MEMORIAL RAISED BETWEEN AND ON THE SPOT WHERE THE HEAD OF 0ERUGIAS lRST BISHOP MIRACULOUSLY REATTACHED ITSELF AFTER IT HAD BEEN REMOVED BY THE 'OTHS ! LITTLE SOUTHWEST OF THIS IS THE 0ORTA -ARZIA DAILY AMnPM A SUPERB %TRUSCAN ARCHWAY ABOVE AN ENTRANCE TO 6IA "AGLIONI 3OTTERANEA PART OF AN EXTRAORDINARY COMPLEX OF SUBMERGED MEDIEVAL STREETS THAT CAN ALSO BE ACCESSED FROM THE ESCALATORS ON THE SOUTHWEST SIDE OF 0IAZZA )TALIA AND FROM 0IAZZA 0ARTIGIANI 4HE STREETS HOUSES BUILT OVER %TRUSCAN RUINS NOW FORM PART OF THE FOUNDATIONS FOR 0IAZZA )TALIA ABOVE BUT WERE ONCE PART OF THE 2OCCA 0AOLINA A COLOSSAL SIXTEENTH CENTURY PAPAL FORTRESS DESIGNED BY 3ANGALLO THE REMAINS OF WHICH CAN BEST BE SEEN COMING UP ON THE ESCALATORS FROM 0IAZZA 0ARTIGIANI OR DOWN FROM THE WEST SIDE OF 0IAZZA )TALIA 4AKING IN TEN CHURCHES AND FOUR HUNDRED HOUSES THE 2OCCA WAS CONNECTED BY TUNNELS TO STRATEGIC POINTS THROUGHOUT THE CITY )T WAS PULLED DOWN AT 5NIlCATION USING DYNAMITE AND BARE HANDS BY WHAT APPEARS TO HAVE BEEN EVERY MAN WOMAN AND CHILD IN THE CITY n AND EVEN THEN THE PROCESS TOOK THIRTY YEARS 4ROLLOPE WATCHING THE DEMOLITION WROTE THAT hFEW BUILDINGS HAVE BEEN LADEN WITH A HEAVIER AMOUNT OF LONG ACCUMULATED HATREDv 7ITHIN THE 2OCCAS OLD CONlNES IS ,A 2OCCA 0AOLINA E ,A #ITTÌ -ONn&RI nPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM nPM + WITH MODEST DISPLAYS DIVIDED INTO FOUR CHRONOLOGICAL GROUPS DOCUMENTING THE FORTRESSS HISTORY 3AN $OMENICO
4HE UNMISSABLE LANDMARK ON #ORSO #AVOUR IS 3AN $OMENICO WHICH AT M IN LENGTH IS 5MBRIAS BIGGEST CHURCH )TS UNlNISHED EXTERIOR HAS AN ATTRAC TIVELY MELANCHOLY AIR WITH PIGEONS NESTING AND GRASS GROWING ON THE PINKISH MARBLE BUT THE INTERIOR BEGUN IN COLLAPSED IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY TO BE REPLACED BY A VAST COLD "AROQUE CONVERSION ,IKE 3ANT!GOSTINO HOWEVER ITS FULL OF HINTS OF PAST BEAUTIES )N THE FOURTH CHA PEL ON THE RIGHT THE #APPELLA DELLA -ADONNA DEL 6OTO IS A SUPERB CARVED ARCH BY !GOSTINO DI $UCCIO A FRAGMENT OF THE ORIGINAL CHURCH SPOILT ONLY BY NINETEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES AND A DOLL LIKE -ADONNA /N THE RIGHT WALL OF THE lRST CHAPEL TO THE RIGHT OF THE HIGH ALTAR IS THE TOMB OF "ENEDICT 8) ANOTHER POPE WHO DIED IN 0ERUGIA n THIS TIME FROM EATING POISONED lGS n AFTER RULING FOR JUST EIGHT MONTHS IN (E LEFT TO POSTERITY ONE OF THE GREATEST 'OTHIC CARV INGS OF ITS KIND IN )TALY AN ELEGANT AND WELL PRESERVED PIECE BY ONE OF THE PERIODS LEADING SCULPTORS n 'IOVANNI 0ISANO ,ORENZO -AITANI OR !RNOLFO DI #AMBIO NOBODY KNOWS WHICH ALTHOUGH ITS MODELLED ON THE TOMB OF #ARDINAL DE "RAYE IN /RVIETO ONE OF !RNOLFOS MOST INmUENTIAL WORKS SEE P 3OME OF THE MARBLE WORK IS MISSING PICKED OUT BY TROOPS WHEN A .APOLEONIC CAVALRY REGIMENT WAS BILLETED IN THE CHURCH )N THE NEXT CHAPEL TO THE RIGHT ARE EXTENSIVE PATCHES OF FRESCO ANOTHER GOOD CHOIR AND n A WELCOME SPLASH OF COLOUR n SOME IMPRESSIVE STAINED GLASS WINDOWS THE LARGEST IN )TALY AFTER THOSE OF -ILAN CATHEDRAL !LSO WORTH HUNTING OUT IS THE GONFALONE PAINTED BANNER BY 'IANNICOLO DI 0AOLO IN THE THIRD CHAPEL IN THE SOUTH TRANSEPT )T WAS PAINTED AS A VOTIVE OFFERING AFTER THE PLAGUE OF AND SHOWS #HRIST ABOVE WITH THE PEOPLE OF 0ERUGIA AND A VIEW OF THE CITY BELOW mANKED BY SAINTS $OMINIC AND #ATHERINE OF 3IENA 4HE RIGHT WALL OF THE LEFT MOST CHAPEL IN THE NORTH TRANSEPT HAS AN INTERESTING FRESCO OF 3T 3EBASTIAN IN WHICH FOR ONCE THE SAINT IS NOT DEPICTED RIDDLED WITH ARROWS THE PAINTING INSTEAD SHOWS THE ARCHERS PREPARING TO lRE
)T IS POSSIBLE TO VIEW ,E 3OFlTTE DI 3AN $OMENICO THE CHURCHS IMPOSING VAULTS AND LOFTS WHICH CONTAIN WORKS BY 'IOVANNI 0ISANO AND #ARLO -ADERNO 'UIDED VISITS 3AT 3UN ONLY ARE BY PRIOR APPOINTMENT ON 4HE -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO .AZIONALE DELL5MBRIA
3AN 0IETRO
4HE /RTO "OTANICO
)F YOUVE WALKED THIS FAR YOU MIGHT WANT TO PUSH ON A TOUCH FURTHER DOWN THE ROAD BEYOND 3AN 0IETRO TO REST UP IN THE SHADY AND ATTRACTIVE /RTO "OTANICO
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&URTHER SOUTH ON #ORSO #AVOUR THROUGH THE DOUBLE ARCHED 0ORTA 3AN 0IETRO IS THE TENTH CENTURY BASILICA OF 3AN 0IETRO THE CITYS lRST CATHEDRAL AND STILL THE MOST BEAUTIFUL AND IDIOSYNCRATIC OF ITS CHURCHES !DVERTISED BY A ROCKET SHAPED BELL TOWER VISIBLE FOR MILES AROUND REBUILT IN ITS TANGLED UP IN A GROUP OF BUILDINGS BELONGING TO THE UNIVERSITYS AGRICULTURAL DEPARTMENT THE ENTRANCE IS THROUGH A DOORWAY IN THE FAR LEFT HAND CORNER OF THE lRST COURTYARD OFF THE ROAD 4HE INTERIOR COMES AS A SHOCK &EW CHURCHES EVEN IN )TALY ARE SO SUMPTU OUSLY DECORATED EVERY INCH OF SPACE BEING COVERED IN GILT PAINT OR MARBLE 4HE EFFECT IS APPEALING AND IN THE CANDLE LIT GLOOM THE CHURCH ACTUALLY FEELS LIKE A SACRED PLACE 4HAT SO MUCH OF THE 2OMANESQUE BUILDING SURVIVES IS DUE TO EVENTS AT 5NIlCATION WHEN THE CHURCHS "ENEDICTINE MONKS SIDED WITH THE TOWNSPEOPLE IN THEIR REVOLT AGAINST PAPAL CONTROL ,OYALTY TO THE CAUSE OF LIBERA TION WAS NOT FORGOTTEN AND WHEN THE RELIGIOUS HOUSES WERE BROKEN UP A YEAR LATER 3AN 0IETRO WAS ALLOWED TO KEEP ITS PATRIMONY 4HE INTERIORS lNEST SINGLE COMPONENT IS THE EXTRAORDINARY CHOIR WHICH HAS BEEN CALLED THE GREATEST IN )TALY !LL THE WOODWORK HERE IS SUPERB LOOK OUT ALSO FOR THE INTRICATELY GILDED SIDE PULPITS !S FOR THE PAINTINGS THERES A 0IETÌ BY 0ERUGINO BETWEEN THE lRST AND SECOND ALTARS ON THE LEFT THREE WORKS BY 6ASARI IN THE #APPELLA DEL 3ACRAMENTO AND A MUCH PRAISED DEPICTION OF #HRIST ON THE -OUNT BY 'UIDO 2ENI LOCATED ON THE LEFT WALL OF THE #APPELLA 2ANIERI THE ELEVEN EYE CATCHING FRESCOES AROUND THE UPPER WALLS ARE BY A DIS CIPLE OF 6ERONESE 4HE BAFmING FRESCO ON THE REAR WALL IS A GENEALOGICAL TREE OF THE "ENEDICTINES COLLECTING TOGETHER THE MOST EMINENT MEMBERS OF THE ORDER 4HE BEST PICTURES OF ALL ARE lVE SAINTS BY 0ERUGINO AND A POSSIBLE 2APHAEL GATHERED IN THE SACRISTY YOULL PROBABLY HAVE TO ASK THE SACRISTAN TO LET YOU IN
0% 25') ! !.$ . / 24 ( % 2 . 5 - " 2 ) ! 4HE SOUTHERN QUARTERS
(OUSED IN 3AN $OMENICOS CLOISTERS IS THE -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO .AZION ALE DELL5MBRIA 0IAZZA 'IORDANO "RUNO -ON nPM 4UESn3UN AMnPM + THE HARD TO lND TICKET OFlCE IS ON THE lRST mOOR OF THE CLOISTER "EFORE BEING HAMMERED BY !UGUSTUS 0ERUGIA WAS A BIG SHOT IN THE TWELVE STRONG %TRUSCAN FEDERATION OF CITIES WHICH IS WHY THE CITY HAS ONE OF )TALYS MOST EXTENSIVE %TRUSCAN COLLECTIONS 4HE MUSEUM HAS RECENTLY UNDERGONE A MAJOR OVERHAUL AND IS DElNITELY WORTH A VISIT THERES FAR MORE HERE THAN THE USUAL RUN OF %TRUSCAN URNS AND FUNERARY MONUMENTS 0ARTICULARLY COMPELLING ARE THE #ARRI %TRUSCHI DI #ASTEL 3AN -ARINO SOME QUITE EXQUISITE SIXTH CENTURY "# BRONZE CHARIOTS A WITTY COLLECTION OF EYE OPENING ARTEFACTS DEVOTED TO FASHION AND BEAUTY IN THE %TRUSCAN ERA AND A SERIES OF BRONZE HELMETS AND SHIELDS 4HE BEWILDERING "ELLUCCI #OLLECTION IS A PRIVATE HOARD OF CHARMS AND AMULETS THROUGH THE AGES EVERYTHING FROM THE OBVIOUS n LUCKY HORSESHOES n TO STRANGER AND OFTEN MORE SINISTER CHARMS SUCH AS SNAKESKINS DRIED ANIMALS FEATH ERS AND ODD SCRAPS OF WOOL 4HE EXHIBITS SPAN SEVERAL THOUSAND YEARS AND FORM A UNIQUE AND ODDLY POIGNANT PICTURE OF FEARS AND SUPERSTITIOUS HOPES ACROSS THE MILLENNIA /THER PARTS OF THE MUSEUM ARE STILL IN THE PROCESS OF BEING UPDATED
FOUNDED IN AT "ORGO 88 'IUGNO -ONn&RI AMnPM FREE 4HE GARDENS DIVIDE INTO TWO THE MEDIEVAL SECTION IS ON THE LEFT IMMEDIATELY BEYOND THE CHURCH WITH THE LARGER BOTANICAL SECTION ON THE RIGHT THROUGH THE 0ORTA 3AN #OSTANZO
%ATING DRINKING AND ENTERTAINMENT
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0ERUGIAS CUISINE IS REWARDING 7HILE A PLETHORA OF FAST FOOD AND SNACK BARS CATER FOR THE STUDENT MARKET THERE ARE SEVERAL GOOD MID RANGE RESTAURANTS AND A COUPLE OF TOP NOTCH ONES 4HERE ARE ALSO PLENTY OF PLACES TO DRINK INCLUDING THE INEVITABLE RASH OF )RISH PUBS BUT THE CITYS BIG AND BUSY CLUBS AND DISCOS ARE ALL IN THE SUBURBS 4HERE IS A PERMANENT COVERED FOOD MARKET THE -ERCATO #OPERTO -ONn3AT AMnPM OFF 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI !N OPEN AIR GENERAL MARKET 4UES 3AT AMnPM OPERATES ON THE 3CALA DI 3ANT%RCOLANO NEAR THE CHURCH OF THE SAME NAME 9OU CAN BUY OTHER PICNIC SUPPLIES n CHEESE HAMS AND SO FORTH n FROM 'IULIANO AT 6IA $ANZETTA A SMALL ALLEY OFF THE EAST SIDE OF THE #ORSO JUST NORTH OF 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA 0ERUGIA IS STRONG ON EVENTS WITH lLMS THEATRE AND CONCERTS PACKING A PAGE OR SO EACH DAY IN THE LISTINGS OF THE LOCAL #ORRIERE DELL5MBRIA NEWSPAPER 0OSTERS AROUND THE CITY IN PARTICULAR NEAR THE 5NIVERSITÌ )TALIANA PER 3TRANIERI ON 0IAZZA &ORTEBRACCIO GIVE DETAILS OF CONCERTS AND %NGLISH LANGUAGE lLMS WHICH ARE ESPECIALLY FREQUENT IN THE !PRIL TO $ECEMBER TERM TIMES #AFÏS AND BARS "AR DELL!CCADEMIA 6IA DEI 0RIORI ! GOOD PLACE FOR A BREAK ON A STREET WITH SEVERAL CAFÏS AND RESTAURANTS )T HAS A GREAT SPREAD OF PASTRIES AND PLENTY OF ROOM TO SIT AT THE BACK "OTTEGA DEL 6INO 6IA DEL 3OLE
! WINE BAR AND SHOP NEAR 0IAZZA $ANTI WHICH OFFERS WINE BY THE GLASS OR BOTTLE ALONG WITH SNACKS %VENINGS ONLY UNTIL AM #LOSED 3UN #AFFÒ DI 0ERUGIA 6IA -AZZINI WWWCAFFEDIPERUGIAIT ! PLEASANTLY SMART SETTING WITH SUPERB VAULTED
\ %ATING DRINKING AND ENTERTAINMENT 5 %VERY *ULY 0ERUGIA HOSTS THE WORLD FAMOUS 5MBRIA *AZZ FESTIVAL
#ESARINO 0IAZZA )6 .OVEMBRE n ! VERY CENTRAL OLD TRATTORIA PIZ ZERIA THAT HAS BEEN AROUND FOR OVER THIRTY YEARS THOUGH SADLY ITS BEEN MODERNIZED A TOUCH RECENTLY "OOKING IS ADVISED AS IT ATTRACTS STUDENTS VISITORS LOCALS 0ERUGIAS lRST TEAM FOOTBALLERS AND POLITI CIANS ALIKE !ROUND + LESS FOR PIZZAS #LOSED 7ED $AL -I #UCCO #ORSO 'ARIBALDI ! VARIETY OF SET PRICE MENUS ARE AVAILABLE HERE THE RESTAURANT AS THE OLD LOCAL DIA LECT NAME SUGGESTS PRESENTS TRADITIONAL 0ERUGIAN DISHES 'OOD VALUE AT AROUND + #LOSED -ON $EL 3OLE 6IA /BERDAN WWWRISTORANTESOLEIT 4WO LARGE DINING ROOMS UNDER ANCIENT VAULTS AND A TERRACE WITH A lNE VIEW FOR SUMMER DINING &OOD IS CLASSIC 5MBRIAN GREAT
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2ESTAURANTS
ANTIPASTI AND A FULL MEAL SHOULD COME IN AT NO MORE THAN + 4UCKED AWAY IN AN ALLEY OFF THE MAIN 6IA /BERDAN #LOSED -ON &ALCHETTO 6IA "ARTOLO WWWILFALCHETTOIT #ENTRAL RELIABLE RESTAURANT IN A SIMPLE MEDIEVAL SETTING JUST OFF 0IAZZA $ANTI FOOD IS ADEQUATE BUT SERVICE CAN BE SLAPDASH 2EASON ABLY PRICED IF YOU STICK TO THE BASICS #LOSED -ON 'IANCARLO 6IA DEI 0RIORI 3IMPLE BUT PERFECTLY COOKED 5MBRIAN STAPLES A CENTRAL LOCATION AND LOW PRICES MEAN YOULL HAVE TO BOOK OR MAY HAVE TO JOIN A QUEUE TO EAT AT THIS NO NONSENSE TRATTORIA #LOSED &RI AND FOR THREE WEEKS DURING !UG 3EPT ,A 4AVERNA 6IA DELLE 3TREGHE OFF 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA 4UCKED AWAY IN A SMALL ALLEY A SERIOUS RESTAURANT THAT OFTEN CLAIMS THE HIGHEST RATING IN THE )TALIAN FOODIE GUIDES THAT COUNT 3ERVES A MIXTURE OF REGIONAL AND ONE OFF INVENTIVE DISHES PLUS HEAVYWEIGHT DESSERTS 7INES ARE OVERPRICED THOUGH AND WHEN THE PLACE IS FULL SERVICE AND FOOD CAN OCCASIONALLY SUFFER &ROM + #LOSED -ON LATE *ULY /STERIA DEL 'AMBERO 6IA "ALDESCHI WWW OSTERIADELGAMBEROIT $ONT BE PUT OFF BY THE %NGLISH MENUS THIS IS A GREAT PLACE THATS BEEN IN BUSINESS SINCE AND HAS PICKED UP A CLUTCH OF AWARDS FOR ITS TRADITIONAL COOKING 4HE INTERIOR IS SIMPLE AND TASTEFUL THREE DEGUSTAZIONE MENUS ARE PRICED AT + VEGETARIAN OR + FOOD OF hTHE TERRITORYv AND + lSH AND SEAFOOD WITH WINE /THERWISE +n #LOSED 3UN /STERIA )L 'UFO 6IA DELLA 6IOLA JUNCTION 6IA !LESSI 4HE BEST SORT OF OSTERIA RELAXED ATMOSPHERE OLD MARBLE TABLES OPEN KITCHEN TRADI TIONAL REGIONAL COOKING WITH THE ODD DASH OF INNO VATION (AS JUST COVERS WITH A FEW TABLES ON THE TINY PIAZZA OUTSIDE IN SUMMER &ROM + #LOSED 3UN -ON AND A PERIOD IN !UG 3EPT /STERIA 4URRENO 0IAZZA $ANTI 4HIS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TAVOLA CALDA HAS BEEN IN BUSINESS FOR SEVERAL GENERATIONS AND IT SHOWS THE HANDFUL OF HOT DISHES EACH LUNCHTIME ARE SIMPLE BUT WELL PREPARED AND VERY FAIRLY PRICED 9OU CAN BUY FOOD TO TAKE AWAY OR SIT OUTSIDE AT ONE OF A HANDFUL OF TABLES BY THE COUNTER OR IN THE LARGER AND RATHER HIDDEN SEATING AREA TO THE REAR &ROM + FOR + YOU CAN GET MEAT VEG SALAD A HUNK OF BREAD AND A SOFT DRINK ,UNCH ONLY #LOSED 3AT 0IZZERIA %TRUSCA 6IA 5LISSE 2OCCHI ,OCATED ON THE HILL DOWN TO 0IAZZA "RACCIO &ORTEBRACCIO THIS IS A NO NONSENSE PIZZERIA WHOSE KEEN PRICES MAKE IT POPULAR WITH STUDENTS
0% 25') ! !.$ . / 24 ( % 2 . 5 - " 2 ) ! %ATING DRINKING AND ENTERTAINMENT
CEILING FROM THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY !LL THE CAFÏ STAPLES PLUS A RESTAURANT WITH SIMPLE MEALS A PIZZERIA GRILL AND A WINE BAR THE LAST A GOOD EARLY EVENING RETREAT #LOSED 4UES #AFFÒ -ORLACCHI 0IAZZA -ORLACCHI 3MART BUT STUDENT ORIENTED BAR GET TO IT ALONG 6IA DELLE 6OLTE FROM 0IAZZA )6 .OVEMBRE /CCASIONAL LIVE MUSIC %NOTECA 0ROVINCIALE 6IA 5LISSE 2OCCHI n #LOSE TO THE $UOMO THIS WINESHOP CUM BAR IS THE BEST PLACE TO INDULGE IN THE LOCAL WINES IT ALSO DOES EXCELLENT SNACKS IN A ROOM TO THE REAR AND HAS A VAST SELECTION OF WINES TO BUY BY THE BOTTLE -ON nPM 4UESn3AT AMnPM nPM 'ELATERIA 3OLELUNA 6IA "ONAZZI 1UEUES FROM THIS ICE CREAM PARLOUR OFF THE #ORSO OFTEN STRETCH ONTO THE NEARBY 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA ESPECIALLY AT THE HEIGHT OF THE 3UNDAY PASSEGGIATA ! GREAT CHOICE OF mAVOURS AND VERY GENEROUS SCOOPS )L "IRRAIO 6IA DELLE 0ROME 4HERES NO MISTAK ING THE BEER BIAS OF THIS ODD MODERN PLACE THE ENTRANCE TO WHICH IS LINED WITH THE COPPER TANKS AND VATS OF AN IN HOUSE MICRO BREWERY 4UESn3UN PMnAM 0ASTICCERIA 3ANDRI #ORSO 6ANNUCCI 4HE MOST ATMOSPHERIC CAFÏ IN 0ERUGIA n TURN OF THE CENTURY 6IENNESE STYLE WITH LOTS OF BRASS WOOD PANELS AND FRESCOED CEILINGS 7ORTH AT LEAST ONE CAKE AND CAPPUCCINO JUST FOR THE INTERIOR #LOSED -ON 0IZZA AL 4AGLIO 6IA DEI 0RIORI 3MALL HOLE IN THE WALL PLACE ON THE CORNER WITH 6IA DELLA 'ABBIA A FEW STEPS FROM THE #ORSO THAT DOES A ROARING TRADE IN PIZZA BY THE SLICE TO TAKE AWAY 3HAMROCK 0UB 0IAZZA $ANTI 0REDICTABLE BUT CONVENIENTLY CENTRAL )RISH PUB AND RESTAURANT IN AN ALLEY ALMOST NEXT TO THE 0OZZO %TRUSCO
0IZZERIA -EDITERRANEA 0IAZZA 0ICCININO n ! STYLISH TWO ROOMED PIZZERIA JUST A FEW STEPS FROM 0IAZZA $ANTI AND THE 0OZZO %TRUSCO WITH SIMPLE MEDIEVAL STONE WALLS A WOOD lRED OVEN AND PRETTY BRICK VAULTS &ROM + $AILY
3CALINO 6IA 3ANT%RCOLANO /N THE CORNER OF 6IA /BERDAN AND THIS NARROW STEPPED ALLEY 3CALINO IS AN AUTHENTIC AND OLD FASHIONED PIZZERIA AND TRATTORIA STAFFED BY VENERABLE WOMEN AND PATRON IZED ALMOST ENTIRELY BY LOCALS )T HAS A FABULOUS BRICK VAULTED DINING ROOM AND VERY REASONABLE PRICES
,ISTINGS
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\ ,ISTINGS s ,AGO 4RASIMENO
"OOKS AND NEWSPAPERS ,IBRERIA .OVECENTO 6IA DEI 0RIORI HAS A GOOD SELECTION OF MAPS GUIDES AND %NGLISH LANGUAGE TITLES &OR %NGLISH NEWSPA PERS TRY THE STANDS ALONG THE #ORSO "US ENQUIRIES !30 0IAZZA DEI 0ARTI GIANI OR 0IAN DI -AS SIANO WWWAPMPERUGIAIT 3)4 !4# 3ULGA #AR RENTAL !VIS AIRPORT OR TRAIN STATION 0IAZZA 6ITTORIO 6ENETO (ERTZ TRAIN STATION 0IAZZA 6ITTORIO 6ENETO OR #HANGING MONEY &OREIGN EXCHANGE IS HANDLED BY MOST OF THE BANKS ON #ORSO 6ANNUCCI &LIGHT ENQUIRIES WWWAIRPORT UMBRIAIT 4ICKETS ,OST PROPERTY -EDICAL FACILITIES ,ATE NIGHT PHARMACY &ARMACIA 3AN -ARTINO 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI (OSPITAL 6IA "ONACCI "RUNAMONTI OR
&OR lRST AID CALL &OR AN AMBULANCE CALL OR 0HONES "OOTHS AT THE POST OFlCE ARE OPEN UNTIL PM THE 4ELECOM )TALIA OFlCES IN 6IA -AR CONI #ORSO #AVOUR AND #ORSO 6ANNUCCI ARE OPEN AMnPM 0OLICE 1UESTURA 0OST OFlCE 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI -ONn&RI AMn PM 3AT AMnPM 3TUDENT TRAVEL #4'3 3TUDENT #ENTRE 6IA DEL 2OSCETTO OR 3TUDY COURSES &OR DETAILS AND PROSPEC TUSES CONTACT THE 5NIVERSITÌ )TALIANA PER 3TRANIERI WWWUNISTRAPGIT 4AXIS 2ADIO 4AXI 0IAZZA )TALIA #ORSO 6ANNUCCI TRAIN STATION 4RAIN ENQUIRIES 2AILWAY STATION 0IAZZA 6ITTORIO 6ENETO WWWTRENITALIAIT PRIVATE LINE 3TAZIONE 3ANT!NNA WWWFCUIT
,AGO 4RASIMENO 4HE MOST TEMPTING OPTION NEAR 0ERUGIA n WHOSE SURROUNDINGS ARE GENERALLY PRETTY BLEAK n IS THE REED FRINGED ,AGO 4RASIMENO !N IDEAL SPOT TO HOLE UP FOR A FEW DAYS AND SWIM IF YOU DONT MIND MURKY WATER IT IS THE BIGGEST STRETCH OF WATER ON THE )TALIAN PENINSULA AND THE FOURTH LARGEST IN )TALY OVERALL AFTER 'ARDA -AGGIORE AND #OMO THOUGH AT TIMES IS IN DANGER OF DRYING UP COMPLETELY 7ITH DEMANDS ON WATER FROM AGRICULTURE AND INCREASED SILTING THE LAKES GREATEST DEPTH IS NO MORE THAN M AVERAGE M n HENCE ITS BATH WARM TEMPERATURE IN THE SUMMER )TS MOSTLY CLEAN HOWEVER LARGELY BECAUSE THE TOURIST AND lSHING INDUSTRIES ARE THE AREAS ECONOMIC BREAD AND BUTTER BANKS OF WEED OCCASIONALLY DRIFT IN DURING THE SUMMER BUT THEYRE PEREMPTORILY TAKEN CARE OF BY THE COUNCIL AND DUMPED ON THE SHORE .OTE THAT THE LAKE IS ALSO EASILY ACCESSIBLE FROM AND PROVIDES A BASE FOR VISITS TO #ORTONA SEE P 0EOPLE HAVE LIVED ON OR CLOSE TO 4RASIMENOS SHORES SINCE 0ALEOLITHIC TIMES THOUGH ITS GREATEST HISTORICAL FAME DATES FROM "# WHEN THE 2OMANS SUF FERED ONE OF THE WORST DEFEATS IN THEIR HISTORY AT THE HANDS OF (ANNIBAL SEE P )TS STRATEGIC POSITION MEANT THAT NUMEROUS CASTLES AND FORTIlED VILLAGES GREW UP ON ITS SHORES AND IN THE HILLS AROUND PREDECESSORS OF PRESENT DAY TOWNS
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SUCH AS #ASTIGLIONE DEL ,AGO !TTEMPTS TO REGULATE THE mUCTUATING WATER LEVEL DATE BACK TO 2OMAN TIMES AND A NUMBER OF SERIOUS PROPOSALS HAVE BEEN PUT FORWARD TO DRAIN THE LAKE ALTOGETHER 4HESE REMAINED LARGELY IN ABEYANCE FOR MUCH OF THE LATE -IDDLE !GES WHEN THE THEN WOODED SHORES WERE EXPLOITED FOR HUNTING AND AGAIN IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY WHEN THE MARSHY SURROUNDS BECAME A BREEDING GROUND FOR MALARIAL MOSQUITOES 4HESE DAYS THE MAIN DRAWBACK TO 4RASIMENO IS ITS POPULARITY IN HIGH SEASON THE LAKE IS COVERED WITH SPEEDBOATS YACHTS AND WINDSURFERS )F YOURE AFTER RELATIVE SECLUSION STEER CLEAR OF THE NORTHERN SHORE n RECENTLY OPENED UP BY 0ERUGIAS AUTOSTRADA SPUR n AND HEAD INSTEAD FOR THE STRETCHES SOUTH OF -AGIONE AND #ASTIGLIONE THOUGH EVEN HERE FOREIGN NUMBER PLATES ARE IN EVER GREATER EVIDENCE "E WARNED THAT UNOFlCIAL CAMPING IS NOT AS EASY AS IT LOOKS COM MERCIAL SITES HAVE GRABBED THE BEST SPOTS AND MUCH OF THE REMAINING SHORELINE IS MARSHY )F YOURE JUST PASSING THROUGH PROBABLY THE NICEST THING TO DO IS SETTLE DOWN FOR A LONG lSH LUNCH AT ONE OF THE LAKEFRONT RESTAURANTS IN #ASTIGLIONE OR TAKE A BOAT TRIP FROM 0ASSIGNANO 4UORO OR #ASTIGLIONE TO THE )SOLA -AGGIORE ONE OF THE THREE ISLANDS ON THE LAKE
0% 25') ! !.$ . / 24 ( % 2 . 5 - " 2 ) ! ,AGO 4RASIMENO
5 ,AGO 4RASIMENO
0ASSIGNANO 4HE LAKES MOST ACCESSIBLE POINT IS 0!33)'.!./ A NEWISH AND REASONABLY ATTRACTIVE RESORT STRUNG OUT ALONG THE NORTHERN SHORE AND SERVED BY HOURLY TRAINS FROM 0ERUGIA AND 4ERØNTOLA NEAR #ORTONA 0OPULAR WITH )TALIANS THE TOWN IN SUMMER IS OFTEN ONE BIG TRAFlC JAM 3UNDAYS BEING ESPECIALLY BAD )N
"OATS ON ,AGO 4RASIMENO "OATS RUN ROUGHLY TWELVE TIMES A DAY THROUGHOUT THE YEAR FROM 0ASSIGNANOS LAND ING STAGE IN FRONT OF 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI TO THE )SOLA -AGGIORE n EITHER DIRECTLY 3UN ONLY TAKES MIN OR VIA 4UORO -ONn3AT MIN "OATS ALSO SHUTTLE BETWEEN 0ASSIGNANO AND 4UORO SUMMER UP TO DAILY MIN AND 0ASSIGNANO AND #ASTIGLIONE DEL ,AGO TWICE ON SUMMER 3AT 3UN MIN "OATS RUN TO THE )SOLA -AGGIORE FROM #ASTI GLIONE DEL ,AGO BUT WITH REDUCED SERVICES OUTSIDE SUMMER -AYn3EPT n DAILY /CTn!PRIL 3AT 3UN n DAILY MIN 4O REACH )SOLA 0OLVESE THERE ARE BOATS YEAR ROUND FROM BOTH 0ASSIGNANO ONCE DAILY MIN AND 3AN &ELICIANO ON THE EASTERN LAKESHORE AROUND DAILY MIN ABOUT KM FROM 0ASSIGNANO 4YPICAL TICKET PRICES ARE + RETURN FOR THE TRIP FROM 0ASSIGNANO TO )SOLA -AG GIORE + RETURN FROM 4UORO TO )SOLA -AGGIORE AND + RETURN FROM #ASTI GLIONE DEL ,AGO TO )SOLA -AGGIORE &OR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT !0- .AVIGAZIONE WWWAPMPERUGIAIT n CLICK ON hORARIv AND THEN h.AVIGAZIONE ,AGO 4RASIMENOv
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\ ,AGO 4RASIMENO
THE EVENINGS THOUGH ITS AN ENJOYABLE PLACE AS PEOPLE COME mOODING IN FROM THE SURROUNDING CAMPSITES LIVENING UP THE BARS DISCOS AND lSH RESTAURANTS 4HE WATERFRONT STRIP IS THE CHIEF FOCUS AND THERES PLENTY GOING ON IN THE WEB OF STREETS BEHIND AS WELL "AR TWO DULL 2ENAISSANCE CHURCHES AND A BIT OF A CASTLE THERES NOTHING MUCH TO SEE YOU CAN SKIP THE TOWN IN THE DAYTIME UNLESS ITS TO CATCH A BOAT 4HE TOURIST OFlCE IS AT 0IAZZA 4RENTO E 4RIESTE *UNEn3EPT -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM /CTn-AY &RI 3AT nPM 3UN AMnPM 4HERE ARE AROUND A DOZEN HOTELS MOST IN THE UPPER BRACKET 4HE LEAST EXPENSIVE OPTIONS ARE THE lFTEEN ROOM ONE STAR &LORIDA 6IA )) 'IUGNO AND ELEVEN ROOM ONE STAR $EL 0ESCATORE 6IA 3AN "ERNARDINO DELPESCATORE LIBEROIT BOTH COMFORTABLE PLACES WHERE ALL ROOMS ARE EN SUITE OR TRY THE LARGER SMARTER THREE STAR 4RASIMENO 6IA 2OMA A WWWHOTELTRASIMENOIT *UST KM NORTH OF TOWN IN A QUIET SPOT AMONG OLIVES AND OAKS IS THE THREE STAR (OTEL #AVALIERI 6IA DELLE 'INESTRE WWW HOTELCAVALIERIIT 3OME OF THE ROOMS HAVE LOVELY LAKE VIEWS AS DOES THE DINING TERRACE OF ITS ,A 3OSTA DEI 4EMPLARI RESTAURANT CLOSED 4UES 4HERES ALSO AN OUTDOOR POOL 4HE MAIN CAMPSITES ARE IN THE NEARBY HAMLET OF 3AN $ONATO NOTABLY THE %UROPA W WWWCAMPING EUROPAIT !PRILn3EPT 9OU CAN RENT BIKES FROM "RUNELLO 2AGNONI 6IA 0OMPILI AND 4ECNO -OTORS 6IA .ATALE !MBROGI 0ASSIGNANO HAS PLENTY OF SIMPLE PIZZERIE AND CHEAP RESTAURANTS )F YOU WANT TO EAT LOTS OF lSH MAKE FOR THE #ACCIATORI DA ,UCIANO 6IA .AZIONALE CLOSED 7ED n EXCEPT DURING SUMMER n .OV WHICH ALSO HAS AN ENTRANCE AT 6IA 0OMPILI /THERWISE THE BEST LOCAL RESTAURANT IS ,A $ARSENA KM EAST AT 6IA 0ERUGINA IN 3AN $ONATO CLOSED 7ED IT GETS AWAY FROM THE AREAS OBSESSION WITH lSH THOUGH lSH IS STILL AVAILABLE AND HAS THREE STAR HOTEL ROOMS
4UORO SUL 4RASIMENO
4HE RAMBLING HILL VILLAGE OF 45/2/ 35, 42!3)-%./ KM WEST OF 0AS SIGNANO AND A THREE KILOMETRE WALK FROM THE 4RASIMENO BATTLElELD IS A QUIET BUT DECIDEDLY DULL LITTLE PLACE GIVING ROAD ACCESS INTO THE DESOLATE BEAUTIFUL MOUN TAINS NORTH OF THE LAKE n THE BEST SCENERY WITHIN EASY REACH OF 0ERUGIA
(ANNIBAL AND THE "ATTLE OF ,AGO 4RASIMENO
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/N THE LAKESHORE WEST OF 0ASSIGNANO IS THE SPOT WHERE THE 2OMANS SUFFERED THE MOST TRAUMATIC DEFEAT IN THEIR HISTORY ON *UNE "# AT THE HANDS OF (ANNIBAL 4HE #ARTHAGINIAN LEADER WAS HEADED FOR 2OME HAVING ALREADY CROSSED THE !LPS AND WON A SWEEPING VICTORY AT 0LACENTIA n THOUGH BY THIS STAGE ONLY ONE OF HIS FAMOUS ELEPHANTS WAS STILL ALIVE (E WAS ACCOMPANIED BY A BATTLE HARDENED ARMY OF AROUND AND WAS MET BY A 2OMAN FORCE OF SOME MEN UNDER THE CONSUL &LA MINIUS BUILDER OF THE 6IA &LAMINA CLOSE TO AN AMPHITHEATRE OF HILLS ABOVE THE LAKE n A LOCATION SAID THE HISTORIAN ,IVY THAT WAS hFORMED BY .ATURE FOR AN AMBUSHv 4HINGS MIGHT HAVE GONE BETTER FOR &LAMINIUS IF HED HEEDED THE OMENS THAT PILED UP ON THE MORNING OF BATTLE &IRST HE FELL OFF HIS HORSE THEN THE LEGIONARY STANDARDS HAD TO BE DUG FROM THE MUD THEN n AND THIS SHOULD HAVE BEEN THE CLINCHER n THE SACRED CHICKENS REFUSED THEIR BREAKFAST 0OULTRY ACCOMPANIED ALL 2OMAN ARMIES IN THE lELD THEIR BEHAVIOUR OR THE LOOK OF THEIR INNARDS AT MOMENTS OF CRISIS BEING INTERPRETED AS COMMUNICATIONS OF THE WILL OF THE GODS 7ITH THE CHICKENS AGAINST HIM &LAMINIUS DIDNT STAND A CHANCE (ANNIBAL LURED HIM INTO A MASTERFUL AMBUSH RANGING HIS MEN IN THE HILLS ABOVE THE AMPHITHEATRE UNDER THE COVER OF EARLY MORNING MIST -EANWHILE HE SENT A SMALL DETACHMENT OVER THE HILLS TO THE REAR OF THE AMPHITHEATRE ALLOWING &LAMINIUS TO SEE THEM THUS TRICKING THE 2OMAN COMMANDER INTO THINKING HE HAD SEEN THE TAIL END OF (ANNIBALS ARMY VACATING THE BASIN 4HUS DUPED &LAMINIUS ABANDONED HIS MARSHY POSITION ON THE LAKESHORE IN FAVOUR OF THE AMPHITHEATRES DRIER GROUND !S HE MARCHED INTO THE TRAP (ANNIBALS MEN POURED DOWN THE SURROUNDING SLOPES CREATING HAVOC AMONG THE 2OMAN SOLDIERS n WHO WERE MARCHING IN A NON BATTLE FORMATION n MANY OF WHOM BARELY HAD TIME TO DRAW THEIR SWORDS 4HE ONLY ESCAPE LAY IN A MUDDY RETREAT BACK TO THE LAKESHORE WHERE THEY WERE MERCILESSLY PURSUED AND HACKED DOWN BY (ANNIBALS MEN 4WO ENTIRE LEGIONS MEN WERE KILLED INCLUDING THE HAPLESS COMMANDER RUN THROUGH WITH A LANCE 4HE SLAUGHTER LASTED FOR THREE HOURS (ANNIBAL FOR HIS PART IS THOUGHT TO HAVE LOST JUST MEN (ANNIBALS SAPPERS HAD ORDERS TO BURY THE DEAD WHERE THEY FELL AND RECENTLY MASS GRAVES OR USTRINA n DEEP STONE LINED PITS WITH LIDS n HAVE BEEN DISCOVERED 3CIENTIlC DATING OF THE REMAINS TALLIES EXACTLY WITH THE DATE OF THE BATTLE 9OU CAN FOLLOW A POORLY WAYMARKED WALK AND DRIVE SEE BELOW AROUND THE BATTLElELD AREA WHICH BEGINS OFF THE MINOR LAKESIDE ROAD ABOUT KM WEST OF 4UORO
4HE 30.4 BOAT COMPANY OFlCE ON THE WATERFRONT AT 0ONTILE DI 4UORO 0UNTA .AVACCIA IS ALSO HOME TO A SEASONAL TOURIST OFlCE *UNEn!UG DAILY AMnPM nPM WHICH HAS INFORMATION ON TWO WALKING ITINERAR IES AROUND THE BATTLElELD THE %STERNO KM CONCENTRATES MORE ON THE AREAS SCENERY BUT THE )NTERNO KM n WHICH TAKES YOU THROUGH THE 6ALLE DELLA "ATTA GLIA ITSELF n IS NOT TERRIBLY EXCITING EVEN WHEN YOUVE MANAGED TO lND ITS START WHICH IS VAGUELY SIGNED KM FROM 4UORO AS A RIGHT TURN AS YOU DRIVE WEST ON THE MINOR ROAD TOWARDS #ORTONA THE RIGHT TURN IS A LONG STRAIGHT TREE LINED ROAD 4HAT SAID THE VARIOUS COSTLY LOOKING OBSERVATION PLATFORMS ALONG THE ROUTE GIVE AN EXCELLENT IDEA OF THE LIE OF THE LAND THOUGH ITS HARD TO RECON CILE THE TRANQUIL FARM COUNTRY IN FRONT OF YOU WITH A SCENE OF MASS SLAUGHTER ! PERMANENT MEMORIAL TO THE CARNAGE EXISTS IN THE PLACE NAMES OF TWO LOCAL HAMLETS 3ANGUINETO 0LACE OF "LOOD WHICH YOU PASS ON THE BATTLElELD TOUR AND /SSAIA 0LACE OF "ONES WHICH LIES NORTHWEST JUST BELOW #ORTONA !CCOMMODATION IS RESTRICTED TO A SINGLE HOTEL THE EIGHT ROOMED 6OLANTE )NN 6IA 3ETTE -ARTIRI VOLANTEINN LIBEROIT IN THE NEARBY HAMLET OF 0UNTA .AVACCIA IS THE 0UNTA .AVACCIA CAMPSITE 6IA .AVACCIA NAVACCIA CAMPINGIT !PRILn3EPT
#ASTEL 2IGONE #!34%, 2)'/.% KM EAST OF 0ASSIGNANO IS THE OUTSTANDING n VIRTUALLY THE ONLY n VILLAGE IN THE MOUNTAINS ABOVE THE LAKE )F YOU HAVE TIME YOU CAN MAKE A NEAT LITTLE DRIVING TOUR OF THE AREA BY TAKING THE ROAD NORTH OUT OF 4UORO TO ,ISCIANO KM THEN CUTTING SOUTHEAST TO #ASTEL 2IGONE VIA 0IAN DI -ARTE AND 4RECINE KM #ASTEL 2IGONE ITSELF IS A FAINTLY ODD LITTLE VILLAGE WITH SUPERB VIEWS AND A SMALL GERANIUM STREWN MEDIEVAL CENTRE -OST OF ITS INCUMBENTS ARE PENSIONERS HERE FOR THE BRACING CLIMATE AND FRESH AIR 4HERE ARE TWO SMART RATHER STAID HOTELS THE BETTER OF WHICH IS THE 2ELAIS ,A &ATTORIA 6IA 2IGONE WWWRELAISLAFATTORIACOM OCCASIONALLY CITED FOR ITS RESTAURANT WHICH IN REALITY ISNT UP TO MUCH ! LITTLE OUTSIDE #ASTEL 2IGONE VILLAGE IS THE 2ENAISSANCE CHURCH OF -ADONNA DEI -IRACOLI MUCH LAUDED BUT NOT WORTH A SPECIAL VISIT AND SOMEWHAT OUT OF PLACE IN THE OVERALL MEDIEVAL CONTEXT
#ASTIGLIONE DEL ,AGO 0% 25') ! !.$ ./ 24 ( % 2 . 5 - " 2 ) !
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#!34)',)/.% $%, ,!'/ CUTS A lNE SILHOUETTE FROM OTHER POINTS ON THE LAKE JUTTING INTO THE WATER ON A FORTIlED PROMONTORY )TS A FRIENDLY UNPRETEN TIOUS PLACE THAT CAN HOLD YOUR ATTENTION FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS n LONGER IF ALL YOU WANT TO DO IS CRASH OUT ON ONE OF ITS MODEST BUT PLEASANT BEACHES 4HESE ARE DOTTED AROUND THE PROMONTORY THE BEST SWIMMING IS ON THE SOUTH SIDE BUT GET EXTREMELY BUSY IN SUMMER )TS EASY TO REACH #ASTIGLIONE BY ROAD AND RAIL THOUGH AS A LOT OF THE FAST TRAINS ON THE 2OMEn&LORENCE LINE NO LONGER STOP HERE YOULL PROBABLY END UP TAKING A SLOWER TRAIN FROM #HIUSI OR 4ERØNTOLA 4HERES LITTLE IN THE TOWN TO HEAD FOR DESPITE ITS %TRUSCAN AND 2OMAN ORIGINS THOUGH THE LARGELY SIXTEENTH CENTURY CASTLE OR 2OCCA DEL ,EONE !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM nPM .OVn-ARCH 3AT 3UN AMnPM + IS WELL PRESERVED PARTICULARLY ITS STRANGE FORTIlED PASSAGEWAY PART OF A DEFENSIVE SCHEME THAT IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY MADE IT ONE OF %UROPES IMPREGNABLE FORTRESSES )TS DESIGN HAS BEEN ATTRIBUTED TO &RATE %LIAS A CONTROVERSIAL &RANCISCAN MONK SEE P WHO MAY ALSO HAVE BEEN RESPONSIBLE FOR THE "ASILICA DI 3AN &RANCESCO IN !SSISI 4HE CASTLE TICKET ALSO LETS YOU INTO THE DUCAL 0ALAZZO DELLA #ORGNA IN 0IAZZA 'RAMSCI FULL OF LARGE ROOMS WITH CEILINGS COVERED IN FRESCOES OF #LASSICAL SUBJECTS -ACHIAVELLI ONCE STAYED OVER HERE AS DID ,EONARDO DA 6INCI IN WHO MADE A DRAWING OF THE TOWNS FORTIlCATIONS 4HE CASTLE RAMPARTS OFFER GOOD VIEWS OF THE LAKE AND THERES A CENTRAL STAGE FOR OUTDOOR SUMMER EVENTS .OTE THAT A h-USEO !PERTOv TICKET + COVERS ENTRY TO THE CASTLE AND PALAZZO AS WELL AS SIGHTS IN 0ANICALE SEE P AND #ITTÌ DELLA 0IEVE SEE P 9OU MIGHT ALSO HUNT DOWN THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA -ADDALENA AT THE WESTERN END OF 6IA 6ITTORIO %MANUELE WHERE THE MAIN LEFT ALTAR HAS A lNE -ADONNA AND #HILD BY %USEBIO DI 3AN 'IORGIO A FOLLOWER OF 0ERUGINO 0RACTICALITIES
4HE MAIN TOURIST OFlCE FOR THE 4RASIMENO REGION IS IN #ASTIGLIONES MAIN SQUARE AT 0IAZZA -AZZINI -ON AMnPM 4UESn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM OR INFO IAT CASTIGLIONE DEL LAGOPGIT THEY HAVE ON THEIR BOOKS PLENTY OF AGRITURISMO CHOIC ES IN THE SURROUNDING COUNTRYSIDE A LOT OF REASONABLE IF CHARACTERLESS ROOMS IN PRIVATE HOUSES AND APARTMENTS TO RENT ON A WEEKLY BASIS (OTEL PRICES HAVE SHOT UP TO CAPITALIZE ON THE TOWNS INCREASINGLY HIGH PROlLE THE TOP PRICED PLACES ARE THE PLEASANT FAMILY RUN THREE STAR $UCA DELLA #ORGNA 6IA "RUNO "UOZZI WWWHOTELCORGNACOM WITH THE
THREE STAR 4RASIMENO 6IA 2OMA HOT ON ITS HEELS 4HE ATMOSPHERIC -IRALAGO 0IAZZA -AZZINI WWW HOTELMIRALAGOCOM HAS VIEWS OF THE LAKE BEHIND &AZZOULI 0IAZZA -ARCONI IS A MODERN TWO STAR THOUGH LIKE ALL THESE n EXCEPT THE -IRALAGO n ITS IN THE NEWER LOWER PART OF TOWN -OST OF THE CAMPSITES ARE SOME WAY NORTH OR SOUTH THE MOST HIGHLY RATED IS "ADIACCIA 6IA 4RASIMENO ) ,OCALITÌ "ADIACCIA WWWBADIACCIACOM !SIDE FROM THE SUMMER ONLY RESTAURANTS ON THE PROMENADE THE PLACE TO EAT GAME lSH FRESH FROM THE LAKE AND OTHER DISHES IS ,!CQUARIO 6IA 6ITTORIO %MANUELE )) CLOSED 7ED WINTER ALSO CLOSED 4UES ON THE OLD TOWNS MAIN STREET !NOTHER GOOD OPTION IS THE ,A &ONTANA RESTAURANT IN THE -IRALAGO HOTEL SEE ABOVE WHICH IN SUMMER HAS TABLES IN A GARDEN AT THE REAR WITH PLEASANT VIEWS OF THE LAKE ! LOVELY PLACE FOR A LIGHT MEAL SNACK OR GLASS OF WINE IS 6INOLENTO 6IA DEL &ORTE WWWVINOLENTOIT CLOSED -ON IN A MEDIEVAL SETTING WITH A BEAUTIFULLY FRESCOED CEILING 4HE TOWNS LIVELY MARKET IS ON 7EDNESDAYS
)SOLA -AGGIORE AND )SOLA 0OLVESE
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0% 25') ! !.$ . / 24 ( % 2 . 5 - " 2 ) ! ,AGO 4RASIMENO
2EGULAR BOATS SEE P FROM 0ASSIGNANO 4UORO AND #ASTIGLIONE MAKE THE TRIP OUT TO )SOLA -AGGIORE ONE OF 4RASIMENOS THREE ISLANDS n A FUN RIDE IF YOU DONT MIND THE CROWDS 4HERES A SINGLE VILLAGE OF ABOUT ONE HUNDRED PEOPLE TRADITIONALLY KNOWN FOR ITS LACEMAKING AND A PRETTY WALK ROUND THE ISLANDS TWO KILOMETRE PERIMETER FOLLOW THE QUAINT BRICK PAVED STREET FROM THE LAND ING STAGE TO THE TWELFTH CENTURY CHURCH OF 3AN 3ALVATORE AT THE TOP AND THE PATH CONTINUES BEYOND 4HE ISLAND IS FAMED FOR A VISIT BY 3T &RANCIS IN A FORTY DAY SOJOURN DURING WHICH HE CONSUMED JUST HALF A LOAF OF BREAD A CHAPEL MARKS THE POINT OF HIS DISEMBARKATION AND THERES A SMALL &RANCISCAN MONASTERY ON THE SOUTHEAST SHORE 4HE BEST OUTING n AND ANOTHER LOVELY WALK n IS THROUGH THE OLIVE GROVES TO THE CHURCH OF 3AN -ICHELE !RCANGELO SITED AT THE ISLANDS HIGHEST POINT THE TWELFTH CENTURY BUILDING IS DECORATED WITH FRESCOES AND HAS A #RUCIlXION PAINTED BY "ARTOLOMEO #APORALI IN 4HE ISLANDS SINGLE HOTEL IS THE TWO STAR $A 3AURO LOCATED AT THE VILLAGES NORTHERN LIMIT 6IA ' 'UGLIELMI BE SURE TO BOOK AHEAD WHETHER ITS FOR A ROOM OR FOR A TABLE IN THE ADJOINING AND EQUALLY POPULAR lSH RESTAURANT -ARCHn/CT DAILY CLOSED .OVn&EB !LTERNATIVELY ONCE EVERYONES GONE HOME YOU MIGHT DIS CREETLY PITCH A TENT "OATS ALSO RUN TO THE TINY )SOLA 0OLVESE ON WHICH STANDS THE BED &ATTORIA )L 0OGGIO WWWFATTORIAISOLAPOLVESECOM + PLUS + FOR LUNCH OR DINNER WITH DORM BEDS ROOMS AND APARTMENTS FOR RENT )TS NOT FAR FROM THE JETTY WHERE THERE IS A MAP SHOWING ITS LOCATION THE OWNERS WILL GENERALLY MEET GUESTS AND HELP WITH LUGGAGE 4HERES NO PUBLIC ACCESS TO )SOLA -INORE THE PRIVATELY OWNED THIRD ISLAND
0ANICALE 4HE LOW HILLS SOUTH OF ,AGO 4RASIMENO MAKE A GOOD SCENIC BACKDROP 7ITH YOUR OWN TRANSPORT YOU COULD TAKE A DETOUR TO 0!.)#!,% KM SOUTH OF THE SHORE A VILLAGE OF %TRUSCAN ORIGINS WHICH GAVE BIRTH TO THE PIONEERING PAINTER 4OMMASO &INI BETTER KNOWN AS -ASOLINO DA 0ANICALE n THE MASTER OF -ASACCIO )TS A QUIET PLACE FOR LUNCH OR A STOPOVER AND ALSO BREAKS YOUR JOURNEY IF YOURE WALKING SOME OF 4RASIMENOS MARKED TRAILS 4HE STREETS OFFER PICTURE POSTCARD VIEWS OF THE LAKE PLUS TWO EASILY MISSED 0ERUGINO PAINTINGS IN THE CHURCH OF 3AN 3EBASTIANO GUIDED TOURS DURING OPENING HOURS OF THE
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TOURIST OFlCE SEE BELOW OUTSIDE THE WALLS IN 6IALE "ELVEDERE OFF 0IAZZA 6ITTO RIA !PART FROM A TINY MEDIEVAL CORE THERES LITTLE ELSE TO THE PLACE SAVE A SMALL MUSEUM OF RELIGIOUS RELICS THE -USEO DEGLI !RREDI 3ACRI IN 6IA 2OMA GUIDED TOURS DURING TOURIST OFlCE HOURS AND THE MODEST -USEO DEL 4ULLE *UNEn!UG DAILY AMnPM nPM REST OF THE YEAR BY APPOINTMENT AND GUIDED VISIT DURING TOURIST OFlCE HOURS A MUSEUM IN THE CHURCH OF 3ANT!GOSTINO DEVOTED TO THE LOCAL TULLE FABRIC 0ANICALES TOURIST OFlCE IS AT 0IAZZA 5MBERTO ) !PRILn3EPT DAILY AMn PM nPM /CTn-ARCH &RIn3UN AMnPM nPM 4HERE ARE TWO HOTELS THE ONE STAR -ASOLINO 6IA 2OMA AND THE THREE STAR ,E 'ROTTE DI "OLDRINO 6IA 6IRGILIO #EPPARI WWWGROTTEDIBOLDRINO COM THE LATTER WELL FURNISHED WITH ANTIQUES IS BUILT INTO PART OF THE OLD MEDIEVAL WALLS AND SURROUNDED BY A GARDEN WITH SPACIOUS ROOMS 4HE HOTEL RESTAURANT OFFERS BOTH PIZZAS AND FULL MEALS THOUGH THE QUALITY CAN BE ERRATIC "ETTER MIGHT BE THE ,OCANDA DELLA 2OCCA IN THE TINY VILLAGE OF 0!.#)!./ ABOUT KM WEST OF 0ANICALE 6IALE 2OMA IT HAS A GREAT MENU EXCELLENT INEXPENSIVE FOOD AND LOVELY VIEWS !LSO WITHIN STRIKING DISTANCE OF 0ANICALE IS THE lNE 6ILLA DI -ONTE 3OLARE LOCATED KM BY ROAD EAST IN THE HAMLET OF #OLLE 3AN 0AOLO AT 6IA -ONTALI WWWVILLAMONTESOLARE COM A LOVELY ROOM HOUSE SET AMIDST OLIVES VINES AND WOODLANDS WITH ROOMS AND COMMON SPACES THAT RETAIN ORIGINAL FEATURES SUCH AS MASSIVE lRE PLACES FRESCOES ANTIQUE BRICKWORK AND PERIOD FURNITURE MEALS ARE ALSO AVAILABLE AND THERE ARE TENNIS COURTS RIDING FACILITIES AND A POOL /N THE MAP THE MAIN 33 ROAD BELOW 0ANICALE BETWEEN 0ERUGIA AND #ITTÌ DELLA 0IEVE LOOKS A GOOD TOURING PROPOSITION IN FACT ITS A LABORIOUS ROUTE SPOT TED BY LIGHT INDUSTRY AND THE ODD FACTORY CHIMNEY 4HE ONLY POINT OF INTEREST IS THE 3ANTUARIO DI -ONGIOVINO A 2ENAISSANCE TEMPLE HIGH ABOVE THE ROAD KM SOUTH OF 0ANICALE WHICH LOOKS A GOOD DEAL MORE IMPRESSIVE FROM AFAR THAN IT DOES CLOSE UP
.ORTHERN 5MBRIA -OVING NORTH FROM 0ERUGIA YOU HAVE TWO PRINCIPAL OPTIONS 4HE MOST IMME DIATELY TEMPTING IS THE THIRTY KILOMETRE JOURNEY TO 'UBBIO WHICH IS AMONG THE BEST PRESERVED MEDIEVAL TOWNS IN CENTRAL )TALY 4HIS IS EASILY ACCOMPLISHED AS A DAY TRIP BY CAR OR BUS FROM 0ERUGIA BUT THERES ENOUGH IN THE TOWN AND THE COUNTRYSIDE BEYOND TO WARRANT AN OVERNIGHT STAY ESPECIALLY IF YOU WANT TO EXPLORE THE WILD UPLAND COUNTRYSIDE FURTHER EAST THE BEST OF WHICH IS PROTECTED BY THE 0ARCO .ATURALE DEL -ONTE #UCCO A MOUNTAIN PARK WITH SOME EXCEL LENT HIKING TRAILS /THER TOWNS IN THE REMOTE NORTHEAST OF THE REGION ARE RARE AND ONLY HILLTOP 'UALDO 4ADINO MERITS ATTENTION n THOUGH NOT A SPECIAL VISIT n THE ONLY OTHER SIGNIlCANT URBAN CENTRE IN THE AREA .OCERA 5MBRA HAVING BEEN LEFT LITTLE MORE THAN A GHOST TOWN BY THE EARTHQUAKES 4HE SECOND OPTION FROM 0ERUGIA IS TO FOLLOW THE COURSE OF THE 2IVER 4IBER 4EVERE TOWARDS 3ANSEPOLCRO AN OBVIOUS OPTION IF YOURE HEADING TOWARDS
EASTERN 4USCANY OR ON THE TRAIL OF 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCA SEE P 4HE RIVERS REACHES NORTH OF 0ERUGIA ARE PRETTY AND PASTORAL AND MOSTLY LACK THE LIGHT INDUSTRY THAT BLIGHTS THE 6ALLE DI 3POLETO AND STRETCHES OF THE 4IBER FURTHER SOUTH (OWEVER THERE IS LITTLE OF MAJOR NOTE TO SEE THOUGH IF YOU HAVE TIME YOU COULD TAKE IN TWO ARTISTIC DIVERSIONS AT -ONTONE AND -ORRA WITH A lNE LITTLE ART GALLERY AND FRESCOES BY ,UCA 3IGNORELLI RESPECTIVELY 4HE HIGHLIGHT OF THE AREA IS #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO AN UNHERALDED AND RELATIVELY LITTLE VISITED TOWN THAT MAY NOT BE IN QUITE THE SAME LEAGUE AS 'UBBIO BUT IS DElNITELY WORTH A STOP FOR ITS PRISTINE MEDIEVAL CENTRE OUTSTANDING ART AND TRIO OF FASCINATING MUSEUMS 7ITH YOUR OWN TRANSPORT YOU COULD COMBINE THE REGIONS MAJOR TOWNS BY VIS ITING 'UBBIO AND THEN HEAD WEST ON THE 33 ROAD TO PICK UP THE 33BIS ROAD NORTH TO #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO AT 5MBERTIDE A LARGELY MODERN TOWN WITH A SMALL MEDIEVAL CORE 0UBLIC TRANSPORT CONNECTIONS ARE SLOW AND INFREQUENT BETWEEN THESE TWO CENTRES MAKING #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO BEST SEEN BY RAIL ON THE FROM 0ERUGIA IF YOURE WITHOUT TRANSPORT
4HE HIGHLIGHT OF THE AREA IMMEDIATELY NORTH OF 0ERUGIA IS THE ABBEY OF 3ANTA -ARIA DI 6ALDIPONTE AT -/.4%,!"!4% ON THE EAST SIDE OF THE VALLEY KM FROM 0ERUGIA 4HIS MONASTIC FOUNDATION ONCE CONTROLLED TWENTY CASTLES IN THE AREA AND SIMILAR ABBEYS ADMINISTERED GREAT SWATHES OF THE LAND BETWEEN 'UBBIO AND THE 4IBER "UILT BETWEEN THE TWELFTH AND FOURTEENTH CENTURIES THE CHURCH ITSELF IS OF RATHER LESS INTEREST THAN THE CLOISTERS n WHICH ARE MEDIEVAL PERFECTION n AND THE VARIOUS ARTISTIC TREASURES INCLUDING FRESCOES BY SUCH AS &IORENZO DI ,ORENZO AND "ARTOLOMEO #APORALI
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3AN &RANCESCO )T HAS SOME BEGUILING FRESCOES FROM AS EARLY AS THE ELEVENTH CEN TURY THE BEST OF WHICH ARE IN THE APSE AND DEPICT 3CENES FROM THE ,IFE OF 3T &RANCIS n BY !NTONIO !LBERTI 4HE MOST INTERESTING PAINTING IS A GONFALONE BAN NER BY "ARTOLOMEO #APORALI THE -ADONNA DEL 3OCCORSO WITH A VIEW OF lFTEENTH CENTURY -ONTONE IN THE FOREGROUND 4HERES A SMALL TOURIST OFlCE IN THE COMUNE AT 6IA 3AN &RANCESCO -ONn&RI AMnPM PLUS MORE INFORMATION ON THE VILLAGE AT WWWMONTONENET )F YOU NEED TO STAY HEAD FOR THE TWO STAR &ORTEBRACCIO 6IA DEI -AGISTRATI OR THE ,OCANDA DEI #APITANI 6IA 2OMA n WWWILCAPITANOCOM CLOSED &EB JUST EIGHT ROOMS IN A lNE MEDIEVAL BUILDING WITH A GOOD RESTAURANT CLOSED -ON AND A VERANDA FOR OUTDOOR SUMMER DINING 4HE THREE STAR HOTEL !DAMO IS IN THE HAMLET OF #/2,/ MIDWAY ALONG THE ROAD FROM 5MBERTIDE AND HAS A REASONABLE RESTAURANT CLOSED 4HURS )F YOURE HEADING EAST TO 'UBBIO n THE MOST LIKELY REASON TO BE PASSING THROUGH n YOU MIGHT STOP OFF AT #AMPO 2EGGIANO KM EAST OF 5MBERTIDE FOR A LOOK AT ITS TINY ELEVENTH CENTURY CHURCH AND CRYPT OF 3AN "ARTOLOMEO 7EST OFF THE MAIN ROUTES TOWARDS #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO ACCESSED VIA A TURNOFF AT 4RESTINA TOWARDS #ASTIGLION &IORENTINO IS THE VILLAGE OF -/22! WITH A LITTLE KNOWN BUT SUPERB FRESCO CYCLE BY ,UCA 3IGNORELLI IN THE /RATORIO DI 3AN #RESCENTINO VISIT WITH CUSTODIAN DAILY AMnPM nPM FREE
#ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO 5MBRIAS NORTHERNMOST TOWN #)44° $) #!34%,,/ IS A RELATIVELY LITTLE VISITED SPOT WHOSE MORE THAN PASSABLE CENTRO STORICO IS A TOUCH SPOILT BY THE INDUS TRY ON ITS OUTSKIRTS n MAINLY TOBACCO PROCESSING PLANTS THE TOWN BEING ONE OF )TALYS LEADING PRODUCERS /N EITHER SIDE OF THE VALLEY mOOR GREEN WOODED HILLS PROVIDE A PLEASANT BACKDROP HARBOURING ONE OF 5MBRIAS LARGER CONCENTRATIONS OF RENTED VILLAS AND FARMHOUSES !T THE TOWNS SOUTHERN EDGE LIES THE 0INACO TECA #OMUNALE THE MAIN ARTISTIC REASON n ALONG WITH AN EXCELLENT DIOCESAN MUSEUM n FOR VISITING THE TOWN 4HE OLD CENTRE IS ALSO A PLEASANT ENOUGH PLACE TO SPEND A NIGHT PARTICULARLY IF YOU DEVOTE AN EVENING TO SAMPLING THE LOCAL #OLLI !LTOTIBERINI WINES OR HAPPEN TO CATCH ONE OF THE BURGEONING NUMBER OF FESTIVALS )N THE 0LEISTOCENE AGE THE 4IBER VALLEY AT THIS POINT WAS SUBMERGED BENEATH AN IMMENSE LAKE SIMILAR TO ,AGO 4RASIMENO AND THE NARROW SHEET OF WATER THAT ONCE COVERED THE 6ALE OF 3POLETO !RCHEOLOGICAL REMAINS SUGGEST A HUMAN PRES ENCE IN THE REGION DATING BACK TO THE 3TONE !GE !N 5MBRIAN TOWN 4IFERNUM LATER DEVELOPED ON THE SITE GIVING WAY IN TIME TO A 2OMAN TRADING CENTRE 4IFERNUM 4IBERINUM WHOSE GRIDIRON OF STREETS REMAINS IMPRINTED ON THE TOWN CENTRE TO THIS DAY ! BISHOPRIC BY THE SIXTH CENTURY n THE #HURCHS SEVENTH CENTURY NICKNAME FOR THE PLACE WAS CASTRUM FELICITAS #ASTLE OF (APPINESS n THE TOWN REACHED ITS PEAK AROUND WHEN THE ENLIGHTENED DESPOTISM OF THE 6ITELLI NOBLES BROUGHT LEADING ARTISTS HERE THE YOUNG 2APHAEL AND 3IGNORELLI AMONG THEM .EMESIS ARRIVED IN THE FORM OF #ESARE "ORGIA WHO INVITED THE HEAD OF THE 6ITELLIS TO A BANQUET HAD HIM STRANGLED AND THEN ABSORBED THE TOWN INTO THE PAPAL DOMAIN !CCESS IS BY DIRECT TRAIN ON THE PRIVATE LINE FROM 0ERUGIA OR 4ERNI TO THE SOUTH OR FROM 3ANSEPOLCRO TO THE NORTH THE STATION IS JUST OUTSIDE THE WALLS
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TO THE SOUTHEAST lVE MINUTES WALK FROM THE CENTRE !LTERNATIVELY YOU COULD TAKE A MAINLINE &3 TRAIN TO !REZZO AND PICK UP AN !#4 BUS TO #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO WHOSE BUS STATION IS IN 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI ON THE EASTERN EDGE OF THE CENTRO STORICO 4HERE ARE CAR PARKS AROUND THE CITY WALLS ONE OF THE MOST CONVENIENT BEING THAT ON 6IALE .AZARIO 3AURO IN THE WEST LINKED BY A PATH TO THE PIAZZA IN FRONT OF THE $UOMO
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4HE 0INACOTECA #OMUNALE !PRILn/CT 4UESn3UN AMnPM n PM REST OF THE YEAR AMnPM n + TOWARDS THE SOUTH OF THE WALLED TOWN AT 6IA DELLA #ANNONIERA IS HOUSED IN THE 0ALAZZO 6ITELLI ALLA #ANNONI ERA ONE OF FOUR SURVIVING PALACES IN #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO FORMERLY OWNED BY THE 6ITELLI THE TOWNS ERSTWHILE OVERLORDS /NE OF THE REGIONS MORE PREPOSSESSING BUILDINGS THE PALAZZO WAS BUILT FOR !LESSANDRO 6ITELLI BETWEEN AND BY 3ANGALLO THE 9OUNGER AND 0IER &RANCESCO DA 6ITERBO AND DECORATED WITH SOME BEAUTIFUL SGRAFlTO BY 6ASARI ON THE GARDEN FACADE )NSIDE THE PAINTED STAIRWELLS AND PERIOD FURNITURE COMPLEMENT THE PAINTINGS RECENTLY RESTORED SIXTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES BY #OLA DELL!MATRICE ON THE STAIRS AND IN THE lRST mOOR 3ALONE BEING SOME OF THE MOST STRIKING .OT ALL THE PALAZZOS FORMER GUESTS HOWEVER HAD TIME TO APPRECIATE THE HIGH CLASS lTTINGS ,AURA ONE OF THE 6ITELLI WOMEN WAS WONT TO THROW HER REJECTED LOVERS TO THEIR DEATHS FROM THE WINDOWS 4HE GALLERY SPREADS OVER TWO mOORS /NE OF THE HIGHLIGHTS IS 4HE -ARTYRDOM OF 3T 3EBASTIAN n BY ,UCA 3IGNORELLI ACTIVE IN AND AROUND THE TOWN BETWEEN AND THE PAINTER OF /RVIETOS EXTRAORDINARY FRESCO CYCLE SEE P AND ANOTHER IN -ORRA NEAR #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO SEE P -ORE COM PELLING STILL IS THE DAMAGED BUT STILL RAVISHING PROCESSIONAL STANDARD BY 2APHAEL THE #REATION OF %VE AND 33 2OCH AND 3EBASTIAN )T WAS PAINTED IN ABOUT AS A VOTIVE OFFERING FOLLOWING AN EPIDEMIC 2OCH AND 3EBASTIAN BEING TWO SAINTS TRA DITIONALLY INVOKED AGAINST THE PLAGUE 2APHAEL SPENT ABOUT lVE YEARS IN 5MBRIA AND THE REGION ONCE HAD MANY WORKS BY HIM 4ODAY THE ONLY PIECES IN 5MBRIA ENTIRELY BY HIM ARE THE STANDARD HERE AND THE PANEL IN THE CHURCH OF 3AN 3EVERO IN 0ERUGIA MANY OF THE OTHERS WERE REMOVED TO &RANCE BY .APOLEON ! MARVEL LOUS THIRTEENTH CENTURY -AESTÌ BY THE ANONYMOUS -AESTRO DI #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO IS ALSO lNALLY ENSCONCED IN THE GALLERY HAVING BEEN BACKWARDS AND FORWARDS TO &LORENCE FOR RESTORATION SINCE /THER WORKS INCLUDE 3IENESE AND LATER 6ENETIAN PAINTINGS AMONG THEM OUTSTANDING PIECES BY !NTONIO 6IVARINI AND HIS BROTHER IN LAW 'IOVANNI D!LEMAGNA THE TWO OFTEN WORKED IN COLLABORA TION AS WELL AS VERSIONS OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD BY 3PINELLO !RETINO .ERI DI "ICCI AND !NDREA DI "ARTOLO 4HE SCULPTURAL HIGH SPOT IS PROVIDED BY THE 2ELIQUARY OF 3T !NDREW WHICH IS GRACED WITH TWO GILDED BRONZE STATUETTES BY THE WORKSHOP OF ,ORENZO 'HIBERTI 4HERE ARE ALSO CERAMICS FROM THE DELLA 2OBBIAS A LOVELY SACRISTY CUPBOARD IN POPLAR AND WALNUT AND A MIS CELLANEOUS SCULPTURE COLLECTION DISTINGUISHED BY A FOURTEENTH CENTURY MARBLE RELIEF THE "APTISM OF #HRIST
4HE $UOMO -ANY OF #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLOS BUILDINGS HAVE LOST THEIR MEDIEVAL ASPECT TO LATER FACADES MOST NOTABLY THE RATHER ODD LOOKING $UOMO WHOSE HALF lNISHED "AROQUE FRONTAGE WAS BEGUN IN AND ABANDONED SOME lFTEEN YEARS LATER "Y THE CHURCH HAD ALREADY BEEN REBUILT AT LEAST ONCE AND FURTHER VERSIONS FOLLOWED IN THE ELEVENTH AND FOURTEENTH CENTURIES AND AGAIN IN WHEN THE BUILDING HAD TO BE RECONSTRUCTED VIRTUALLY FROM THE GROUND UP AFTER AN EARTHQUAKE 3OMETHING OF ITS CHEQUERED CONSTRUCTION HISTORY CAN BE SEEN IN THE WONDERFUL ROUND CAMPANILE WHICH COMBINES AN ELEVENTH CENTURY BASE WITH A NEWER 'OTHIC UPPER LEVEL AND IN THE 'OTHIC LINES OF THE NORTH PORTAL WHOSE CARVINGS INCLUDE TWO lNE PANELS -ERCY AND *USTICE n 4HE HEAV ILY REWORKED INTERIOR PROMISES LITTLE THOUGH IF YOURE LUCKY ENOUGH TO lND THE SACRISTY OPEN DOOR ON THE RIGHT TAKE A LOOK AT ITS SMALL ANNEXE CONTAINING A HANDFUL OF PAINTINGS
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4HE EXCELLENT -USEO DEL $UOMO IS ENTERED TO THE RIGHT OF THE CATHEDRALS DOGS DINNER FACADE AT 0IAZZA 'ABRIOTTI A 4UESn3UN !PRILn3EPT AMnPM nPM /CTn-ARCH AMnPM nPM ALSO OPEN ON -ONDAYS THAT FALL ON PUBLIC HOLIDAYS AND DAILY IN !UG AMnPM nPM + 4HE MUSEUM IS ARRANGED OVER TWO MAIN mOORS PRIDE OF PLACE ON THE GROUND mOOR IN 3ALA ) GOES TO THE 4ESORO DI #ANOSCIO A HOARD OF PALEO #HRISTIAN SILVERWARE COMPRISING NINE PLATES ELEVEN SPOONS AND lVE MISCELLANEOUS PIECES n SOME OF THEM BEAUTIFULLY ENGRAVED n TURNED UP IN THE NEARBY HAMLET OF #ANOSCIO IN BY A FARMER PLOUGHING HIS lELDS 4HEY WERE PROBABLY MADE IN #ONSTANTINOPLE AROUND THE SIXTH CENTURY AND MIGHT HAVE BEEN USED TO CELEBRATE THE %UCHARIST ITS A SHAME THAT THEIR DISPLAY IS A LITTLE AUSTERE )N THE ADJOINING 3ALA )) IS AN ALMOST EQUALLY VALUABLE n AND VISUALLY MORE STRIK ING n PALIOTTO OR GILDED ALTAR RELIEF REPUTEDLY PRESENTED TO #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO BY 0OPE #ELESTINE )) IN /F QUITE EXQUISITE DETAIL THE WORK SHOWS #HRIST SURROUNDED BY SYMBOLS AND SCENES FROM HIS LIFE RUNNING FROM LEFT TO RIGHT IN TWO ORDERS 4HE UPPER ORDER COMPRISES THE !NNUNCIATION 6ISITATION .ATIVITY NOTE THE COMICAL DONKEY !DORATION OF THE -AGI &LIGHT FROM %GYPT lRST PANEL BOTTOM LEFT !RREST OF #HRIST AT 'ETHSEMANE AND THE #RUCIlXION WITH THREE SAINTS BELOW ARE THE FOUR SYMBOLS OF THE %VANGELISTS )N THE SAME ROOM IS A SUPERB 3IENESE CROZIER DATED AND WORKED IN MIND BOGGLING DETAIL NOTE THE TINY STATUINES OF THE 6IRGIN AND #HILD AND A KNEELING BISHOP IN THE CURL OF THE CROOK AT THE TOP OF THE OCTAGONAL SHAFT 4HE REST OF THE GROUND mOOR AND PART OF THE UPPER mOOR DISPLAY RELIGIOUS EPHEMERA SUCH AS RELIQUARIES CHALICES AND CROSSES SPANNING SOME SIX CENTURIES PLUS DOCUMENTS AND MAPS OF LOCAL BUILDINGS !T THE TOP OF THE STAIRS A PROCES SIONAL CROSS CONTAINS TINY RELICS AMONG THEM A BONE BELONGING TO 3T #ATHERINE OF 3IENA %LSEWHERE UPSTAIRS THE EARLY ROOMS FEATURE A SERIES OF GOOD IF UNEXCEP TIONAL PAINTINGS AMONG THEM AN !NNUNCIATION BY THE LOCAL PAINTER &RANCESCO DA 4IFERNO ACTIVE n A -ADONNA BY THE SCHOOL OF ,UCA 3IGNORELLI AND A PICTURE OF 3T &LORIDUS THE SIXTH CENTURY BISHOP OF #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO WHO REBUILT THE $UOMO IN 4HIS SEQUENCE IS INTERRUPTED IN 3ALA 6)) WHERE THERE ARE lVE EXCEPTIONAL PAINTINGS 4HESE INCLUDE THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 3T *OHN BY 0INTURICCHIO TWO PAINTINGS OF ANGELS BY 'IULIO 2OMANO AND n THE HIGHLIGHT OF THE SHOW n #HRIST IN 'LORY n BY -ANNERIST SUPERSTAR 2OSSO &IORENTINO WITH THE lGURES OF THE 6IRGIN -ARY AND HER MOTHER 3T !NNA ON THE RIGHT AND -ARY OF %GYPT AND -ARY -AGDALENE ON THE LEFT 4HIS WOULD BE AN EXCEPTIONAL PAINTING WERE IT IN THE 5FlZI OR A GALLERY OF SIMILAR STATURE SO IT IS A TREAT TO lND IT HERE )T EVEN WARRANTED COMMENT FROM 6ASARI WHO THOUGHT THE lGURES AND ITEMS PICTURED WERE SOME OF THE hSTRANGEST THINGS IN THE WORLDv THOUGH IN EVERY OTHER RESPECT HE CONSIDERED THE WORK OUTSTANDING
4HE REST OF THE TOWN 4HE THIRD OF THE TOWNS TRIUMVIRATE OF MUSEUMS IS THE FASCINATING #OLLEZIONE 4ESSILE DI 4ELE 5MBRA JUST OFF THE MAIN 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI AT 6IA 3ANT!NTONIO 4UESn3AT AMnNOON nPM 3UN AMnPM nPM /CTn-ARCH CLOSES PM + 4HE MUSEUM IS ANNEXED TO A NOT TO BE MISSED SMALL TEXTILE WORKSHOP SET UP IN BY THE &RANCHETTI A LOCAL ARISTOCRATIC FAMILY DETERMINED TO PROVIDE EMPLOYMENT AND KEEP ALIVE THE CENTURIES OLD TRADITIONS OF LINEN MAKING IN THE REGION ITS STILL IN OPERATION AND LOOKS MUCH AS IT MUST HAVE DONE ALMOST A CENTURY AGO 4HE MUSEUM TRACES THE HISTORY OF TEXILES IN THE 5PPER 4IBER VALLEY THOUGH IN MANY WAYS IT IS LESS INTER
ESTING THAN THE WORKSHOP -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM /CTn-ARCH CLOSES PM SAME TICKET AS MUSEUM WHICH STILL EMPLOYS LOCAL WOMEN AND STILL n ALMOST UNIQUELY IN )TALY n USES TRADITIONAL HAND WORKED LOOMS ! SMALL SHOP SELLS PRODUCTS MADE IN THE WORKSHOP 0ALACES
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*UST EAST OF THE $UOMO IN 0IAZZA 'ABRIOTTI LIES #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLOS OLD CIVIC HEART DOMINATED BY THE 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE OR 0ALAZZO DEI 0RIORI WHOSE UNlNISHED SANDSTONE BULK WAS BEGUN IN BY !NGELO DA /RVIETO THE ARCHI TECT PARTLY RESPONSIBLE FOR 'UBBIOS MORE IMPRESSIVE 0ALAZZO DEI #ONSOLI SEE P /PPOSITE RISES THE 4ORRE #OMUNALE OR 4ORRE #IVICA SEAT OF THE TOWNS MEDIEVAL PRISON WHICH CAN BE CLIMBED FOR SOME NICE VIEWS OVER THE ROOFTOPS CLOSED FOR RESTORATION AT TIME OF WRITING ! GRACEFUL FOURTEENTH CENTURY LOGGIA LEADS OUT OF THE SQUARE TO THE 0ALAZZO DEL 0ODESTÌ lNISHED AGAIN BY !NGELO DA /RVIETO THOUGH MUCH OF THE MEDIEVAL WORK HAS BEEN OBSCURED BY SEVENTEENTH CENTURY ADDITIONS 9OU CAN EXTEND YOUR KNOWLEDGE OF THE TOWNS PALACE ARCHITECTURE BY VISITING 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI AND THE 0ALAZZO 6ITELLI A 0ORTA 3ANT%GIDIO BUILT IN FOR 0AOLO 6ITELLI POSSIBLY TO A DESIGN BY 6ASARI THE ATTRIBUTION APPEARING LIKELY IN VIEW OF 6ASARIS INVOLVEMENT WITH THE 0ALAZZO 6ITELLI ALLA #ANNONIERA 0INACOTE CA #OMUNALE SEE P )TS GARDEN FRONTAGE PROVIDES ITS BEST ASPECT AN OUTLOOK THAT WOULD BE IMPROVED WERE THE GROTTO GARDEN AND STATUES IN FRONT OF IT TO BE TIDIED UP 4HE PALACE NOW BELONGS TO A BANK BUT YOULL CATCH A GLIMPSE OF THE INTERIOR IF YOU ATTEND ONE OF THE MANY CONCERTS HELD HERE DURING THE SUMMER SEASON 4HE lFTEENTH CENTURY 0ALAZZO !LBIZZINI 4UESn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM nPM + ON THE SAME PIAZZA HOUSES A PUBLIC COLLECTION OF PAINTINGS DONATED TO THE TOWN BY THE LOCAL !LBERTO "URRI n A MODERN ARTIST OF INTERNATIONAL STANDING -ORE PAINTINGS AND SCULP TURES ARE DISPLAYED IN THE 3ECCATOI DEL 4ABACCO SAME TICKET AND HOURS EXCEPT .OVn-ARCH 3AT ONLY AMnPM nPM COLOSSAL BUILDINGS ON 6IA 0IERUCCI ON THE SOUTHERN EDGE OF TOWN ONCE USED TO DRY TOBACCO 4HEYRE WORTH VISITING FOR THEIR OWN SAKE AND PROVIDE A BREATHTAKING DISPLAY SPACE FOR "URRIS WORK #HURCHES
.ONE OF #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLOS CHURCHES CAN BE SAID TO SET PULSES RACING BUT TAKEN TOGETHER THEY OFFER A WORTHWHILE MEDLEY OF MISCELLANEOUS TREASURES 3AN $OMENICO A GLOOMY 'OTHIC AFFAIR BUILT BETWEEN AND MIGHT ONCE HAVE BEEN MORE TEMPTING BUT ITS 3IGNORELLI -ADONNA HAS BEEN SNAPPED UP BY THE 0INACOTECA WHILE THE 2APHAEL #RUCIlXION WHICH ONCE ADORNED ITS EAST NAVE NOW RESIDES IN ,ONDONS .ATIONAL 'ALLERY )N THEIR ABSENCE YOU MUST MAKE DO WITH A SET OF LOVELY INLAID CHOIR STALLS AND SEVERAL lFTEENTH CENTURY PATCHES OF LOCAL AND 3IENESE FRESCO 3ANTA -ARIA DELLE 'RAZIE REBUILT IN IS ALMOST EQUALLY TANTALIZING FOR ITS MAIN TREASURE A PAINTING OF THE -ADONNA DELLE 'RAZIE n THE ONLY DOCUMENTED WORK OF 'IOVANNI DI 0IAMONTE ALSO KNOWN AS A COLLABORATOR OF 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCA n IS KEPT HIDDEN IN A CUPBOARD ON THE CHURCHS NORTH SIDE AND ONLY EXHIBITED ON &EBRUARY AND !UGUST 7ORTHY OF INTEREST THOUGH IS A FRESCO OF 4HE $ORMITION OF THE 6IRGIN ATTRIBUTED TO THE 'UBBIAN MASTER /TTAVIANO .ELLI 3AN &RANCESCO SITUATED ON 0IAZZA 2AFFAELLO 3ANZIO DATES FROM THOUGH ITS INTERIOR BEARS THE ALL TOO OBVIOUS MARKS OF AN EIGHTEENTH CENTURY RESTORATION )T TOO ONCE BOASTED A 2APHAEL WHICH IS NOW IN -ILANS "RERA GALLERY BUT HAS TO MAKE DO WITH AN ALTARPIECE BY 6ASARI LOCATED IN THE #APPELLA 6ITELLI ALSO BY 6ASARI OFF THE NORTH AISLE &INALLY
3AN 'IOVANNI $ECOLLATO IN 6IA 3ANT!NDREA HAS FRESCOES THAT SHOW THE INmUENCE OF ,UCA 3IGNORELLI WHILE THE NEARBY 3AN -ICHELE !RCHANGELO 6IA 3ANT!NGELO CONTAINS A HIGH ALTARPIECE BY 2AFFAELLINO DEL #OLLE n AN ACCOMPLISHED ARTIST ACTIVE LOCALLY IN #ITERNA 'UBBIO AND ELSEWHERE 3OUTH OF THE CENTRE
!BOUT KM SOUTH OF #ITTÌ IN THE HAMLET OF 'ARAVELLE IS ONE OF 5MBRIAS BEST FOLK MUSEUMS THE #ENTRO DELLE 4RADIZIONI 0OPOLARI 4UESn3UN !PRILn/CT AMnPM nPM .OVn-ARCH AMnPM nPM + 3ITUATED IN 6IA -ARCHESE #APPELLETTI IT COMPRISES AN EIGHTEENTH CEN TURY FARMHOUSE PRESERVED WITH ALL THE ACCOUTREMENTS OF DAILY LIFE n POTS PANS FURNITURE AND SO FORTH PLUS A RANGE OF EXHIBITS COVERING WINE MAKING WEAVING AND CARPENTRY 4HERES EVEN A BLACKSMITHS FORGE
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#ITTÌ DI #ASTELLOS TOURIST OFlCE IN THE ,OGGE "UFALINI JUST OFF 0IAZZA -AT TEOTTI -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM INFO IATCITTA DI CASTELLOPGIT DEALS WITH THE WHOLE 5PPER 4IBER REGION 4HE 2ESIDENZA !NTICA #ANONICA NEAR THE $UOMO ON 6IA 3AN &LORIDO WWWUMBRIAHOLIDAYSNET OFFERS GOOD VALUE MINI APARTMENTS WITH KITCHENS 4HE TOWNS BEST HOTEL IS THE CENTRAL FOUR STAR 4IFERNO 0IAZZA 2AFFAELLO 3ANZIO WWWHOTELTIFERNOIT
!LTERNATIVES ARE THE PLEASANT THREE STAR ,E -URA 6IA "ORGO &ARINARIO WWWHOTELLEMURAIT A RENOVATED RURAL HOUSE NEAR THE 0INACOTECA n BATHROOMS ARE RATHER SMALL FOR THE PRICE BUT THERES AN APPEAL ING LITTLE GARDEN WITH FOUNTAIN AND THE EXCELLENT MODERN ONE STAR 5MBRIA 6IA DEI 'ALANTI WWWHOTELUMBRIANET 4HE PLEASANT RURAL CAMPSITE -ONTESCA -AYn3EPT IS AT ,A -ONTESCA KM WEST 4HE BEST VALUE OF SEVERAL GOOD RESTAURANTS IS !MICI -IEI CLOSED 7ED NICE LY LOCATED IN A VAULTED CELLAR AT 6IA DEL -ONTE !LTERNATIVELY TRY ,EA A LOCALS FAVOURITE AT 6IA 3AN &LORIDO CLOSED -ON A SHORT WAY SOUTH OF THE CATHEDRAL 'RANDER AND WITH MORE ELEVATED CUISINE IS )L 0OSTALE 6IA 2AFFAELE DE #ESARE CLOSED -ON LUNCH ON 3AT WHERE YOULL NEED TO SPEND AT LEAST + PER PERSON TO GET THE BEST OF THE CREATIVE COOKING &OR SIMPLE MEALS OR PIZZAS WALK A FEW STEPS FROM 0IAZZA -AT TEOTTI TO 2OMA 6IA -ARIO !NGELONI CLOSED 3UN )L "ERSAGLIO CLOSED 7ED AND WEEKS IN *ULY M SOUTHEAST OF THE WALLS AT 6IA 6% /RLANDO IS KNOWN FOR ITS TRUFmE DISHES ITS COSY INSIDE AND THERE IS USUALLY THE OPTION OF AT LEAST ONE DEGUSTAZIONE MENU 4HE TOURIST OFlCE CAN PROVIDE DETAILS OF THE TOWNS INTERNATIONALLY RENOWNED &ESTIVAL DELLE .AZIONI &ESTIVAL OF #HAMBER -USIC LATE !UG EARLY 3EPT WWWFESTIVALNAZIONICOM !N EQUALLY WELL KNOWN -ERCATO DEL 4ARTUFO n A TRUFmE SHOW AND MARKET n IS HELD EVERY .OVEMBER 0IAZZA 'ABRIOTTI IS THE SITE OF THE REGULAR MARKET 4HURS 3AT WHILE 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI HAS A LARGE MONTHLY mEA MARKET THE &IERA DEL 2IGATTIERE RD 3UN OF MONTH AMnPM
!ROUND #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO "EYOND #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO YOU HAVE A CHOICE OF THREE ROUTES STRIKING EAST TOWARDS 5RBINO AND THE -ARCHE OR PRESSING ON INTO 4USCANY EITHER BY HEADING NORTH TOWARDS 3ANSEPOLCRO OR WEST TOWARDS !REZZO !LL ARE ACCESSIBLE BY TRAIN OR BUS FROM #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO THOUGH ONLY DRIVERS ARE LIKELY TO WANT TO STOP EN ROUTE
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.ORTH ALONG THE 3ANSEPOLCRO ROAD KM EAST OF ,AMA YOU CAN SEE FAINT REMAINS BELIEVED TO HAVE BEEN A VILLA OWNED BY 0LINY 3OME KM BEYOND 3!. ')534) ./ IS A MORE OR LESS MODERN SETTLEMENT SAVE FOR THE #ASTELLO "UFALANI A THIR TEENTH CENTURY CASTLE PARTLY CONVERTED BY 6ASARI INTO A SPLENDID VILLA 6ISITS ARE AT THE DISCRETION OF THE OWNERS ENQUIRE AT THE TOURIST OFlCE IN #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO "Y A QUIRK OF FATE #OSPAIA A HUDDLE OF HOUSES ON THE HILL OUTSIDE WAS A TINY INDEPENDENT REPUBLIC UNTIL THOUGH THERE ARE NO VISIBLE REMINDERS OF ITS PAST GLORIES 3ANSEPOLCRO SEE P LIES KM NORTH OF 3AN 'IUSTINO -ONTE 3ANTA -ARIA 4IBERINA AND #ITERNA
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/NE OF THE NICEST DRIVES OUT OF #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO IS TO THE PICTURE PERFECT VILLAGE OF -ONTE 3ANTA -ARIA 4IBERINA ATOP A HILL ABOUT KM WEST ON A MINOR ROAD )T CAME UNDER THE SWAY OF THE -ARGRAVES DEL #OLLE DESCENDANTS OF THE &RANKS IN THE TENTH CENTURY AND REMAINED UNDER THEIR CONTROL UNTIL HAVING SURVIVED AS AN INDEPENDENT DUCHY 5NTIL THIS TIME IT COULD DECLARE WAR STRIKE ITS OWN COINS AND WAS APPARENTLY ONE OF ONLY THREE PLACES IN %UROPE WHERE DUELS COULD LEGALLY BE FOUGHT TO THE DEATH 4ODAY ITS SLEEPY AND PRISTINE WITH LITTLE TO SEE SAVE A PARISH CHURCH WITH A lNE FONT AND SOME SUPERB VIEWS (EAD WEST ON THE 33 OUT OF #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO AND YOU HIT #)4%2.! A PERFECT FORTIlED HILLTOP VILLAGE WHOSE POWERFUL WOODED POSITION ATTRACTED ATTEN TION AS LATE AS WHEN THE .AZIS DESTROYED ITS STRATEGICALLY IMPORTANT CASTLE LEAVING ONLY THE PRESENT LITTLE TOWER 4HE TOWN DATES FROM 2OMAN TIMES WAS REBUILT AFTER BARBARIAN DEPREDATIONS IN THE SEVENTH AND EIGHTH CENTURIES AND ACHIEVED HIGH RENOWN IN WHEN 'IUSEPPE 'ARIBALDI HERO OF )TALIAN 5NI lCATION SPENT THREE DAYS HERE AFTER THE UNSUCCESSFUL 2OMAN UPRISING OF 4ODAY ITS NEAT BRICK HOUSES ARE SPICK AND SPAN DESPITE A MASSIVE EARTHQUAKE IN AND DAMAGE INmICTED DURING BOTH WORLD WARS 4HE lNE LOCAL CHURCH 3AN &RANCESCO BUILT IN AND REVAMPED IN HAS A GRAND ASSORTMENT OF GILDED WOODEN ALTARS A LATE n FADED NICHE FRESCO BY ,UCA 3IGNORELLI AND ASSISTANTS -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 33 &RANCIS AND -ICHAEL SECOND ALTAR ON THE RIGHT AND THE OUTSTANDING AND EXTRAVAGANTLY FRAMED SIXTEENTH CENTURY PAINTING -ADONNA AND 3T *OHN THE %VANGELIST BY 2AFFAELLINO DEL #OLLE LEFT TRANSEPT 4HE BUSY $EPOSITION IN THE CHOIR IS BY THE OTHERWISE OBSCURE !LESSANDRO &OR ZORIO FROM !REZZO #ITERNAS HOTEL IS THE ROOM THREE STAR 3OBARIA 6IA DELLA 0INETA &ROM #ITERNA ITS A SHORT HOP INTO 4USCANY TO SEE 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCAS -ADONNA DEL 0ARTO AT -ONTERCHI SEE P
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(IGH REMOTE '5"")/ HAS THE MOST BEAUTIFUL MEDIEVAL APPEARANCE OF THE NORTHERN 5MBRIAN TOWNS n INDEED IT IS SO WELL PRESERVED THAT SOME )TALIAN GUIDES AND THE LOCAL TOURIST BLURB DESCRIBE IT AS THE 5MBRIAN 3IENA )TS NOT QUITE THAT BUT THE STREETS ARE ALL ATTRACTIVE ROSY PINK STONE THE MONUMENTS WORTH VIS ITING AND THE MEDIEVAL NOOKS AND CRANNIES AS ENDEARING AS ANY IN )TALY )N MANY WAYS IT HAS BECOME THE REGIONS LOVELIEST TOWN TO EXPLORE SINCE VISITOR NUMBERS AND TACKY COMMERCIALISM HAVE INCREASINGLY COMPROMISED !SSISIS CHARMS "ETTER STILL THE COUNTRYSIDE AROUND IS GORGEOUS n THE FOREST COVERED MOUNTAINS OF THE !PENNINES REARING UP BEHIND AND THE WATERS OF THE #AMIGNANO GORGE RUNNING THROUGH THE TOWN ITSELF IN WINTER AT LEAST ! BROAD AND LARGELY UNSPOILT PLAIN n BAR A CEMENT WORKS TO THE NORTH n STRETCHES OUT IN FRONT OF THE TOWN
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'UBBIO IS ATTRACTING EVER GREATER NUMBERS OF VISITORS AND ON A SUMMER MORN ING THE STREETS CAN BE VERY BUSY #OME EVEN SLIGHTLY OFF SEASON HOWEVER OR STAY THE NIGHT AND YOULL SEE IT IN A DIFFERENT AND VERY MUCH MORE APPEALING LIGHT 3OME HISTORY
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\ 'UBBIO
,OCAL FOLKLORE INSISTS THAT 'UBBIO WAS ONE OF THE lRST lVE TOWNS BUILT AFTER THE 'REAT &LOOD )T WAS ACTUALLY FOUNDED BY THE 5MBRIANS AROUND THE THIRD OR FOURTH CENTURY "# AND MAY EVEN HAVE BEEN THEIR POLITICAL AND RELIGIOUS CAPITAL LATER PASSING TO THE %TRUSCANS FOR WHOM IT MARKED THE EASTERNMOST LIMIT OF THEIR TERRITORIAL AMBITIONS 3EVERAL BRONZE SLABS THE %UGUBINE 4ABLETS n NOW IN THE -USEO #IVICO n SURVIVE AS MEMORIALS TO BOTH CULTURES SOME OF THE MOST IMPORTANT ARCHEOLOGICAL lNDS OF THEIR TYPE SEE P 4HE 2OMANS FOLLOWED BUILDING THE COLONY OF )GUVIUM AT THE EDGE OF THE PLAIN WHERE A SPRINKLING OF MONUMENTS AND THE GRIDIRON PLAN OF THEIR STREETS SURVIVE TO THIS DAY "ARBARIAN RAIDS SUBSEQUENTLY SAW 'UBBIOS FOCUS MOVE UP THE HILLSIDE WHOSE STEEP TER RACED SLOPES FORM THE TOWNS PRESENT DAY HEART )N THE MEDIEVAL PERIOD 'UBBIO MAINTAINED A STRATEGIC IMPORTANCE AS THE PIVOTAL TOWN BETWEEN 2OME AND 2AVENNA ITS COMUNE ACHIEVING A STATUS THAT RIVALLED 0ERUGIA !CCORDING TO CONTEMPORARY CHRONICLERS THE POPULATION GREW TO n TWICE ITS PRESENT NUMBER n THE TOWNS WEALTH AND SIZE PROVIDING NOT ONLY THE WHEREWITHAL TO BUILD ITS VAST CIVIC PALACES BUT ALSO THE IMPULSE TOWARDS ARTISTIC AND CULTURAL INNOVATION 5MBRIAS lRST SCHOOL OF PAINTING DEVELOPED HERE AS DID A CERAMIC TRADITION THAT CONTINUES TODAY &ROM ABOUT THE PAPACY AND 'ABRIELLI NOBILITY JOSTLED FOR POWER THOUGH IT WAS THE -ONTEFELTRO DUKES OF 5RBINO WHO WRESTED EVENTUAL CONTROL RULING THE TOWN VIRTUALLY UNCHALLENGED FROM UNTIL 'UBBIO REMAINED IN THE $UCHY OF 5RBINO UNTIL THEN BECAME PART OF THE 0APAL 3TATES PERHAPS ONE REASON WHY IT STILL FEELS A TOWN APART NOT PROPERLY A PART OF EITHER 4USCANY 5MBRIA OR THE -ARCHE
!RRIVAL AND INFORMATION !30 HAS ROUGHLY HOURLY BUSES TO 'UBBIO FROM #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO AND 0ERUGIA THERE ARE ALSO ONCE DAILY DIRECT BUSES TO BOTH 2OME AND &LORENCE 4HE NEAREST TRAIN STATION IS AT &OSSATO DI 6ICO KM SOUTH ON THE 2OMEn&OLIGNOn!NCONA LINE FROM WHERE BUSES SHUTTLE TO 'UBBIO -ONn3AT DAILY ON 3UN 'UB BIOS BUS TERMINAL IS NEAR THE MEDIEVAL HEART OF THE OLD TOWN AT 0IAZZA 1UAR ANTA -ARTIRI DOMINATING THE OLD TOWNS SKYLINE ABOVE THE PIAZZA IS THE COLOSSAL BULK OF THE 0ALAZZO DEI #ONSOLI WHILE ON THE HILL ABOVE TO THE EAST SITS A SECOND LANDMARK THE "ASILICA DI 3ANT5BALDO 4HE NEWSAGENT ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE PIAZZA SELLS BUS TICKETS AS WELL AS A RANGE OF MAPS INCLUDING DETAILED #!) AND OTHER SHEETS THAT ARE INVALUABLE IF YOU PLAN TO WALK IN THE NEARBY HILLS OR THE -ONTE #UCCO PARK SEE P "Y CAR YOULL MOST LIKELY APPROACH ON THE MEANDERING CROSS COUNTRY 33 ROAD FROM 0ERUGIA %XCEPT ON 4UESDAYS WHEN ITS THE SITE OF THE TOWNS WEEKLY MARKET YOU CAN PARK AT 0IAZZA 1UARANTA -AR TIRI PAY AT THE h%ASY 'UBBIOn#ASSA 0ARCHEGGIOv OFlCE A SHORT WAY UP 6IA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA ON THE LEFT !LTERNATIVE PARKING IS OFF 6IALE DEL 4EATRO 2OMANO CLOSE TO 3AN $OMENICO OR FURTHER AlELD IN 6IA DEL #AVARELLO NEAR 0ORTA 2OMANA 4HERES A TOURIST OFlCE AT 0IAZZA /DERSI OFF THE CENTRAL #ORSO 'ARIBALDI -ONn&RI AMnPM nPM 3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM WINTER AFTERNOON HOURS SLIGHTLY CURTAILED OR INFO IATGUBBIOPGIT 9OU CAN CHANGE MONEY AT BANKS OR THE POST OFlCE 6IA #ARIOLI -ONn3AT AMnPM
!CCOMMODATION 9OU SHOULDNT HAVE ANY PROBLEM lNDING A PLACE TO STAY IN 'UBBIO THOUGH THE PLACE GETS BUSY 4HE TOURIST OFlCE HAS DETAILS OF MORE THAN lFTY AGRITURISMO OPTIONS DOTTED AROUND THE COUNTRYSIDE NEARBY THERES SOME GREAT ACCOMMODA TION FOR EXAMPLE IN 6ALLINGEGNO KM SOUTH INCLUDING SIX TWO AND THREE BED APARTMENTS IN A CONVERTED ABBEY THE !BBAZIA DI 6ALLINGEGNO 4HE TOURIST OFlCE ALSO HAS DETAILS OF AROUND TWENTY ROOMS TO LET MOST ON NIGHTLY OR WEEKLY LETS BUT LOCATED OUTSIDE THE TOWN (OTELS
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FROM TOWN OFF THE MAIN ROAD TO 0ERUGIA 4HERES A POOL AND RATHER MISPLACED /RIENTAL FURNISHINGS ARE THE ONLY INCONGRUOUS NOTE
,OCANDA DELLA $UCA 6IA 0ICCARDI 4HE TOWNS ONLY ONE STAR WITH SEVEN ROOMS /VERLOOKS THE RIVER AND HAS A REASON ABLE RESTAURANT WITH A PICTURESQUE TERRACE .OTE THAT FOR VIRTUALLY THE SAME PRICE YOU CAN STAY IN THE GOOD ROOMS AT 2ESIDENZA ,E ,OGGE ON THE SAME STREET 0ARK (OTEL AI #APPUCCINI 6IA 4IFERNATE WWWPARKHOTELAICAPPUCCINIIT -AJOR LEAGUE HEDONISM SWIMMING POOL SAUNA GARDEN GYM IN AN ELEGANTLY CONVERTED SEVEN TEETH CENTURY MONASTERY 4HE DOWNSIDE IS THE PLEASANT BUT OUT OF TOWN PARKLAND SETTING THE SIZE ROOMS AND LOTS OF CONFERENCE FACILITIES WHICH WORK AGAINST INTIMACY AND THE PRICE n ANYTHING UP TO + FOR A DOUBLE ROOM THOUGH OFF SEASON RATES CAN BE HALF THIS 2ELAIS $UCALE 6IA -ONTEFELTRO FORMERLY 6IA $UCALE n6IA 'ALEOTTI WWWRELAISDUCALECOM "EST UPMARKET CHOICE 4HREE CONVERTED MEDIEVAL HOUSES IN A FAULTLESS POSITION BETWEEN 0IAZZA 'RANDE FROM WHERE ITS SIGNED AND THE CATHEDRAL WITH A LOVELY TERRACE AND GLORIOUS AND VARIED ROOMS DECORATED WITH TRADITIONAL SIMPLICITY AND ELEGANCE 2ESIDENZA ,E ,OGGE 6IA 0ICCARDI n RESIDENZALELOGGE VIRGILIOIT 6ERY APPEALING SET OF FOUR DOUBLE ROOMS AND TWO THREE BED MINI APARTMENTS IN A QUIET MEDIEVAL STREET JUST OFF BUSY 0IAZZA 1UARANTA -ARTIRI BUT WELL AWAY FROM ITS BUSTLE #LEAN COMFORTABLE AND NICELY PRESENTED THERES EVEN A SMALL GARDEN 7EEKLY RATES TOO FROM + PER DOUBLE 2OOMS !PARTMENTS
0% 25') ! !.$ . / 24 ( % 2 . 5 - " 2 ) ! 'UBBIO
"IAGIOTTI 6IA 0ICCARDI ! SET OF lVE ROOMS AND ONE APARTMENT ALL WITH PRIVATE BATHROOMS A GOOD STANDBY IF THE SLIGHTLY MORE EXPENSIVE n BUT BETTER n ROOMS OF ,E ,OGGE ALMOST OPPOSITE ARE FULL $AILY AND WEEKLY DEALS ARE AVAIL ABLE 2OOMS AND APARTMENT "OSONE 6IA 88 3ETTEMBRE 4HIS THIRTY ROOM OLD WORLD THREE STAR FULL OF FRESCOES MEDIEVAL VAULTS AND ANTIQUES IN ITS COMMON AREAS OFFERS A TOUCH OF TRADITIONAL STYLE 2OOMS ARE COMFORTABLE ENOUGH BUT A LITTLE TIRED 9OU MAY BE OBLIGED TO TAKE HALF BOARD BUT RATES ARE REASONABLE INCLUDING HALF BOARD $EI #ONSOLI 6IA DEI #ONSOLI /NE OF THE BEST LOCATIONS n IN AN ATMOSPHERIC STREET n AND RECENTLY REVAMPED TURNING NINE FORMERLY PLAIN TWO STAR ROOMS INTO FOUR STAR OFFERINGS "EST ARE THE QUIETER ROOMS AWAY FROM THE STREET
'ATTAPONE 6IA ' !NSIDEI 6IA "ENI &IRST CHOICE MID RANGE OPTION A RENOVATED CENTRAL THREE STAR HOTEL IN A QUIET MEDI EVAL BUILDING OFF 6IA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA WITH EIGHTEEN SPACIOUS ROOMS SMALL BATHROOMS AND A PEACEFUL GARDEN ,IGHT SLEEPERS MAY BE DISTURBED BY THE BELLS OF 3AN 'IOVANNI NEARBY
'ROTTA DELL!NGELO 6IA 'IOIA WWWGROTTADELLANGELOIT 2ELI ABLE EIGHTEEN ROOM TWO STAR IN A QUIET SIDE STREET WITH A GOOD INEXPENSIVE RESTAURANT ALL ROOMS ARE EN SUITE AT PRICES A FEW EURO LOWER THAN THE ,OCANDA DELLA $UCA ,A 2OCCA -ONTE )NGINO SELENAWEB IOLIT !N OUT OF TOWN THREE STAR HOTEL WITH TWELVE ROOMS TO GET THERE WITHOUT A CAR TAKE THE FUNICULAR OR WALK UP TO -ONTE )NGINO AND FOLLOW THE SIGNS FROM THE "ASILICA 4HE MODERN HOTEL IS UNEXCEPTIONAL SAVE FOR THE VIEWS FOR WHICH YOU PAY A LITTLE OVER THE ODDS BY COMPARISON WITH MANY HOTELS IN TOWN ,OCANDA DEL 'ALLO &RAZIONE 3ANTA #RISTINA WWWLOCANDADELGALLOIT ! GREAT CHANGE FROM THE NORMAL RUN OF TOWN HOTELS THIS IS A TWELTH CENTURY ARISTOCRATIC HOUSE CON VERTED IN A WAY THAT FULLY RETAINS ITS OLD MEDIEVAL APPEARANCE LOCATED IN PEACEFUL COUNTRYSIDE KM
#AMPSITES #ITTÌ DI 'UBBIO /RTOGUIDONE ,ARGE HUNDRED PITCH SITE WITH A POOL IN A GOOD SETTING M SOUTH OFF THE 0ERUGIA ROAD !PRILn3EPT 6ILLA /RTOGUIDONE /RTOGUIDONE 5MBRIAS ONLY FOUR STAR CAMPSITE n EXPENSIVE AND WITH ONLY TWELVE PITCHES &ORMS PART OF THE #ITTÌ DI 'UBBIO SITE !PRILn3EPT
4HE 4OWN 0IAZZA 1UARANTA -ARTIRI MAKES AN OBVIOUS PLACE TO START A TOUR OF 'UBBIO IT WAS NAMED AFTER FORTY INNOCENT CITIZENS MURDERED BY THE .AZIS IN AS A REPRISAL FOR PARTISAN ATTACKS IN THE SURROUNDING HILLS THE lGHTING AROUND 'UB BIO AS THE !LLIES ADVANCED NORTH WAS ESPECIALLY TOUGH THE BATTLE FOR THE TOWN TAKING THREE WEEKS !FTER TAKING IN 3AN &RANCESCO AND ITS FRESCO CYCLES YOU SHOULD HEAD INTO THE MEDIEVAL TOWN PROPER WHERE THE VAST 0ALAZZO DEI #ON SOLI HOUSES THE TOWNS MUSEUM AND PICTURE GALLERY AND THEN WANDER THE SHORT DISTANCE TO THE ADJOINING $UOMO -USEO $IOCESANO AND 0ALAZZO $UCALE THE LAST BASED ON THE -ONTEFELTROS FAMOUS PALACE IN 5RBINO ! LANE BEHIND THE $UOMO n THE ROUTE TAKEN BY COMPETITORS DURING THE FAMOUS #ORSA DEI #ERI SEE BOX OPPOSITE n LEADS UP TO -ONTE )NGINO A HILL TOP EYRIE WHICH OFFERS LOVELY VIEWS AND PLENTY OF PICNIC AND STROLLING OPPORTUNITIES !LTERNATIVELY YOU COULD TAKE IN THE STREETS AROUND 3AN $OMENICO AND THEN HEAD EAST TO 0ORTA 2OMANA WHERE A PANORAMIC FUNICULAR ALSO RUNS UP -ONTE )NGINO 3AN &RANCESCO AND AROUND 0% 25') ! !.$ ./ 24 ( % 2 . 5 - " 2 ) !
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)N 0IAZZA 1UARANTA -ARTIRI SLIGHTLY STRANDED FROM THE MEDIEVAL HEART OF TOWN IS THE TOWNS lNEST CHURCH 'OTHIC 3AN &RANCESCO POSSIBLY DESIGNED BY &RA "EVIGNATE THE BRAINS BEHIND 0ERUGIAS &ONTANA -AGGIORE 7ITHIN THE RECENTLY RESTORED INTERIOR IS AN ENGAGING IF FADED CYCLE OF FRESCOES PAINTED AROUND BY /TTAVIANO .ELLI CnC LEADING LIGHT OF THE 'UBBIAN SCHOOL 2ANGED AROUND THE CHAPEL TO THE LEFT OF THE APSE THE SEVENTEEN PANELS COMPRISE 3CENES FROM THE ,IFE OF THE 6IRGIN -ARY (IGH UP IN THE APSE YOU CAN JUST MAKE OUT EARLY THIRTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES SHOWING #HRIST %NTHRONED WITH 3AINTS WHILE THE CHAPEL TO THE RIGHT OF THE APSE HAS STILL MORE FRESCOES THIS TIME FOURTEENTH CENTURY 3CENES FROM THE ,IFE OF 3T &RANCIS ! SMALL CHAPEL IN THE SACRISTY IS REPUT EDLY THE ROOM IN WHICH 3T &RANCIS SLEPT WHEN HE VISITED 'UBBIO A SOJOURN THAT INCLUDED HIS FAMOUS TAMING OF A WOLF THAT HAD BEEN TERRORIZING THE TOWN 4HE STRUCTURE IS KNOWN TO HAVE BEEN PART OF A MEDIEVAL HOUSE BELONGING TO THE 3PADALONGA FAMILY FRIENDS OF THE SAINT 4HE SIMPLE CLOISTERS BEYOND STILL CLING TO A FEW FOURTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES /PPOSITE THE CHURCH IS THE DISTINCTIVE FOURTEENTH CENTURY ,OGGIA DEI 4IRA TORI 7EAVERS )TALYS BEST SURVIVING EXAMPLE OF THIS NOW RARE TYPE OF BUILDING 7OOL WAS STRETCHED OUT IN THE SHADE OF ITS ARCHES TO DRY AND SHRINK EVENLY AWAY FROM THE HEAT OF THE SUN 4HE LITTLE CHURCH TO ITS LEFT IS THE OFTEN LOCKED 3ANTA -ARIA DEI ,AICI BUILT IN THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY BUT ALTERED TO DULL EFFECT THREE CENTURIES LATER "EHIND THE LOGGIA 6IA 0ICCARDI LEADS JUST NORTH OF A SMALL SQUARE CONTAINING THE CHURCH OF 3AN 'IOVANNI "ATTISTA RESTORED TO ITS THIRTEENTH CENTURY STATE AND DISTINGUISHED BY AN ODDLY ELONGATED CAMPANILE *UST OFF TO THE WEST 6IA "ALDASSINI CONTAINS THE #ASA DI 3ANT5BALDO THE FORMER HOME OF ONE OF 'UBBIOS PATRON SAINTS 5BALDO BORN IN 'UBBIO IN BECAME A BISHOP AND EARNED HIS SAINTLY SPURS BY HELPING DEFEND THE TOWN FROM "ARBAROSSA IN HES BURIED IN THE BASILICA BEARING HIS NAME ON -ONTE )NGINO 4HE 0ALAZZO DEI #ONSOLI
"EARING EAST INTO THE MEDIEVAL TOWN ALONG 6IA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA CENTRE STAGE IS TAKEN BY THE AUSTERE 0ALAZZO DEI #ONSOLI A SUPERB BUILDING WHOSE CRENELLATED OUTLINE AND CAMPANILE DOMINATE THE COUNTRYSIDE FOR MILES AROUND )TS WESTERN FACE IS PARTICULARLY IMPRESSIVE VAST BUTTRESSING SUPPORTING A BUILDING THAT RISES ALMOST M FROM THE BASE OF THE FOUNDATIONS TO THE TIP OF THE CAMPANILE 4HE PLAIN FACADE IS DISTURBED ONLY BY A TRIPLE PAIRED WINDOW MOTIF THATS UNIQUE
4HE #ORSA DEI #ERI
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TO 'UBBIO AND REPEATED ELSEWHERE IN THE TOWN BY A LOVELY DOORWAY AND BY A HOLE AT THE TOP RIGHT HAND CORNER n MADE TO HOLD THE CAGE OR GOGNA FROM VERGOGNA MEANING hSHAMEv IN WHICH CRIMINALS WERE INCARCERATED 4HE LITTLE LUNETTE ABOVE THE DOOR FEATURES THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH *OHN THE "APTIST AND 5BALDO !N OVERBEARING GESTURE OF CIVIC PRIDE THE 0ALAZZO DEI #ONSOLI TOOK THE PLACE OF THE PREVIOUS CIVIC HEADQUARTERS IN 6IA $UCALE WHICH HAD BEEN EMBARRASS INGLY OVERSHADOWED BY A SYMBOL OF RELIGIOUS POWER THE $UOMO THIS PREVIOUS HEADQUARTERS WAS SUBSEQUENTLY LOST BENEATH THE FOUNDATIONS OF -ONTEFELTROS 0ALAZZO $UCALE 7ORK BEGAN ON THE 0ALAZZO DEI #ONSOLI IN PROBABLY TO THE PLANS OF THE EMINENT 'UBBIAN ARCHITECT -ATTEO 'ATTAPONE !NGELO DA /RVIETO ACTIVE n FRESH FROM CIVIC PALACES IN #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO MAY HAVE DESIGNED THE DOORWAY AND ITS mANKING 'OTHIC WINDOWS #ONSTRUCTION TOOK A COUPLE OF HUNDRED YEARS DURING WHICH TIME VAST TRACTS OF THE MEDIEVAL TOWN WERE LEVELLED MOST OF THE SPACE GOING TO ACCOMMODATE THE HUGE 0IAZZA 'RANDE OR 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA A WINDSWEPT BELVEDERE WITH EXCELLENT VIEWS AND A SUITABLE SETTING FOR THIS COLOSSAL BUILDING AND FOR THE LESSER UNlNISHED 0ALAZZO 0RETORIO OPPOSITE BUILT TO THE SAME 'ATTAPONE DESIGN
0% 25') ! !.$ ./ 24 ( % 2 . 5 - " 2 ) ! 'UBBIO
4HE VIGIL OF THE FEAST DAY OF 5BALDO 'UBBIOS PATRON SAINT THE #ORSA DEI #ERI -AY IS LITTLE KNOWN OUTSIDE )TALY BUT IN 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA RANKS SECOND ONLY TO 3IENAS 0ALIO IN ITS EXUBERANCE AND BIZARRE PAGEANTRY 4HE RULES AND RIGMAROLE OF THE NINE HUNDRED YEAR OLD CEREMONY ARE MIND BOGGLING BUT IN ESSENCE BEGIN WITH AN EARLY MORNING -ASS AND A PROCESSION THROUGH THE PACKED STREETS OF THE VAST WOODEN CERI OR hCANDLESv REMOVED FROM 5BALDOS -ONTE )NGINO BASILICA %ACH IS DEDICATED TO A PARTICULAR SAINT n 5BALDO !NTHONY AND 'EORGE !T AM ANOTHER PROCESSION MAKES ITS WAY TO THE 0IAZZA 'RANDE WHERE AN HOUR LATER THE FOUR METRE HIGH CERI ARE RAISED BY MEMBERS OF THE TOWNS THREE TRADITIONAL CONFRATERNITIES THE BUILDERS REPRESENTED BY 3T 5BALDO THE ARTISANS 3T 'EORGE AND THE PEASANTS 3T !NTHONY ! STATUE OF THE RELEVANT SAINT TOPS EACH COLUMN 4HERE FOLLOWS YET ANOTHER PROCESSION THROUGH THE STREETS TO SHOW THE CERI TO THE TOWNSPEOPLE AND 46 CREWS FROM ACROSS )TALY 4HE PILLARS ARE THEN DUMPED UNTIL PM WHILE ALL CONCERNED ADJOIN FOR A GUT BUSTING lSH LUNCH IN THE 0ALAZZO DEI #ONSOLI 9ET ANOTHER PROCESSION ENSUES DURING WHICH THE CLERGY ARE lNALLY ALLOWED TO PARTICIPATE A JOURNEY THAT TAKES THE CERI THROUGH JUST ABOUT EVERY LAST CORNER OF THE TOWN "ACK IN THE 0IAZZA 'RANDE AT PM THE MAYOR BRANDISHES A WHITE BANNER TO SIGNAL THE BEGINNING OF A RACE THE CLIMAX OF THE DAY WHICH INVOLVES CARRYING THE CERI BACK UP TO THE HILLTOP "ASILICA DI 3ANT5BALDO .O SOONER HAS THE RACE BEGUN THAN THERES A STOP AT THE 0ORTA DEL -ONTE )T THEN RESUMES UP THE STEEP PATH TO THE BASILICA EACH CONFRATERNITY BEING ALLOWED TEN OFlCIAL CARRIERS WHO HAVE TO BE REPLACED EVERY TEN MINUTES n BUT WITHOUT STOPPING h2ACEv IS SOMETHING OF A MISNOMER HOWEVER FOR THE CERO OF 5BALDO ALWAYS WINS THE OTHER TEAMS HAVING TO ENSURE THEYRE IN THE BASILICA BEFORE THE DOORS ARE SHUT BY THE LEADERS 4HE CERI ARE THEN ABANDONED IN THE BASILICA AND THE SAINTS BROUGHT DOWN IN A CANDLELIT PROCESSION 4HEREAFTER THERES MORE CELEBRATION AND A GOOD DEAL OF DRINKING ! SCHOLARLY DEBATE RAGES OVER THE ORIGINS OF THE EVENT GENERALLY CITED AS EITHER A SECULAR FEAST COMMEMORATING THE DAY IN WHEN 5BALDO TALKED "ARBAROSSA OUT OF mATTENING 'UBBIO OR A HANGOVER FROM SOME PAGAN FERTILITY RITE 4HESE DAYS THE #HURCH CLAIMS IT AS ITS OWN THOUGH JUDGING BY THE VERY PHALLIC CERI AND THE ROAR THAT GOES UP WHEN THEYRE RAISED TO THE VERTICAL IN 0IAZZA 'RANDE THERES SOMETHING MORE THAN #HRISTIAN JUBILATION GOING ON
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\ 'UBBIO 5 0ALAZZO DEI #ONSOLI
4HE -USEO #IVICO
4HE CAVERNOUS BARREL VAULTED 3ALONE DELL!RENGO WHERE THE COUNCIL OFlCERS DISCUSSED THEIR BUSINESS NOW ACCOMMODATES A -USEO #IVICO DAILY !PRILn3EPT AMnPM nPM /CTn-ARCH AMnPM nPM CLOSED DURING #ORSA DEI #ERI + -UCH OF THIS CONSISTS OF COINS AND SCULPTURES SCATTERED LIKE A MEDIEVAL JUMBLE SALE IN THE MAIN HALL BUT ONE OF ITS ADJOINING ROOMS OFF TO THE LEFT ALSO CONTAINS 5MBRIAS MOST IMPORTANT ARCHEOLOGICAL lND THE %UGUBINE 4ABLETS $ISCOVERED IN BY AN ILLITERATE SHEPHERD n WHO TWELVE YEARS LATER WAS CONNED BY THE COMUNE INTO SWAPPING THE PRICELESS TREASURE FOR A WORTHLESS PIECE OF LAND n THE TABLETS CONSIST OF SEVEN BRONZE SLABS FOUR OF WHICH PROBABLY DATE
4HE 0INACOTECA AND THE -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO
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4HE 0INACOTECA SAME HOURS AND TICKET AS -USEO #IVICO IS HOUSED IN lVE WONDERFUL MEDIEVAL ROOMS AT THE TOP OF A STEEP mIGHT OF STEPS ON THE SECOND mOOR OF THE 0ALAZZO DEI #ONSOLI 4HOUGH THE PAINTINGS ARENT ANYTHING SPECIAL THEY TRACE THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE 'UBBIAN 3CHOOL ONE OF CENTRAL )TALYS EARLIEST NAMES TO LOOK OUT FOR ARE 'UIDO 0ALMERUCCI AND -ELLO SEE P 3IENESE ART ISTS ARE ALSO REPRESENTED NOTABLY BY 2UTILIO -ANETTI THE CITYS LEADING FOLLOWER OF #ARAVAGGIO AND THERES A LOVELY #RUCIlX BY THE -AESTRO DI 3AN &RANCESCO BEST KNOWN FOR HIS WORK IN THE "ASILICA DI 3AN &RANCESCO IN !SSISI 4HE GALLERYS STAR PAINTING -ADONNA DEL -ELOGRANO -ADONNA OF THE 0OMEGRANATE BY 0IER &RANCESCO &IORENTINO WAS STOLEN IN AND MUST NOW SURELY BE CONSIDERED LOST FOR GOOD $ONT MISS THE TREMENDOUS VIEWS OVER THE 0IAZZA 'RANDE AND THE LOWER TOWN FROM THE PALACES LOGGIA ENTERED FROM THE GALLERY 4HE SAME TICKET ALSO ALLOWS YOU INTO THE RECENTLY ARRANGED -USEO !RCHEO LOGICO ON THE PALACES LOWER mOOR ENTERED SEPARATELY AT THE REAR OF THE PALACE THE ENTRANCE IS SIGNED AT THE JUNCTION OF 6IA DEI #ONSOLI AND 6IA 'ATTAPONE 4HIS IS A RATHER PATCHY MISCELLANY WITH A GOOD "YZANTINE SARCOPHAGUS AND A COLLECTION OF 2OMAN AND 5MBRIAN BRONZES CARVINGS AND OTHER ARCHEOLOGICAL DISPLAYS
0% 25') ! !.$ . / 24 ( % 2 . 5 - " 2 ) ! 'UBBIO
FROM ABOUT "# AND THREE FROM AROUND "# 4HEY ARE THE MOST SIGNIl CANT EXTANT RECORD OF THE 5MBRIAN LANGUAGE BELIEVED TO HAVE BEEN A VERNACULAR TONGUE WITHOUT STANDARD WRITTEN CHARACTERS 4HE BASTARDIZED ,ATIN AND %TRUSCAN OF THEIR TEXTS AIMED AT PRODUCING A PHONETIC TRANSLITERATION OF THE DIALECT USING THE MAIN LANGUAGES OF THE DAY 'UBBIO WAS CLOSE TO THE SHRINE OF THE SO CALLED !PENNINE *OVE A MAJOR PAGAN DEITY VISITED BY PILGRIMS FROM ALL OVER )TALY AND ITS THOUGHT THE TABLETS WERE THE WORK OF 2OMAN AND %TRUSCAN PRIESTS TAKING ADVANTAGE OF THE ESTABLISHED ORDER TO IMPOSE NEW RELIGIOUS CULTS IN A REGION WHERE THEIR LANGUAGES WERENT UNDERSTOOD 4HE RITUAL TEXT n THE MOST IMPOR TANT TO HAVE SURVIVED FROM ANTIQUITY n COMPRISES A PRAYER DIVIDED INTO STANZAS A LIST OF 'UBBIOS ENEMIES AND A SERIES OF INSTRUCTIONS FOR CONDUCTING SERVICES AND THE ART OF DIVINATION FROM SACRIlCED ANIMALS AND THE mIGHT OF BIRDS -OST IMPORTANTLY THEY SUGGEST 2OMANS %TRUSCANS AND 5MBRIANS ACHIEVED SOME SORT OF COEXISTENCE REFUTING A LONG HELD BELIEF THAT SUCCEEDING CIVILIZATIONS WIPED OUT THEIR PREDECESSORS !LSO WORTH HUNTING OUT IN THE MUSEUM ARE SEVERAL KEY EXAMPLES OF 'UBBIOS CERAMIC TRADITION )TS GREATEST EXPONENT -AESTRO 'IORGIO !NDREOLI WAS BORN IN AND DISTINGUISHED HIMSELF BY DISCOVERING GOLD AND RUBY GLAZES THE LATTER n RIVERBERO n A COLOUR YOU RARELY SEE IN CERAMICS AS ITS EXTREMELY DIFlCULT TO ACHIEVE 5NFORTUNATELY 'IORGIOS SONS TOOK THE SECRETS OF HIS UNIQUE GLAZE TO THEIR GRAVES WORSE STILL UNTIL RECENTLY 'UBBIO DIDNT HAVE ANY EXAMPLES OF THE MASTERS WORK ALTHOUGH IN AND THE TOWN MANAGED TO PURCHASE AUCTIONED WORKS BY PUBLIC SUBSCRIPTION 4HESE TWO PIECES n #IRCE AND THE &ALL OF 0HAETON n ARE ON SHOW IN THE 3ALA DELLA ,OGGETTA FROM WHICH A CORRIDOR LEADS TO 2OOM )6 OF THE 0INACOTECA
4HE $UOMO
! COUPLE OF STREETS NORTH OF THE 0ALAZZO DEI #ONSOLI THE RATHER PLAIN THIRTEENTH CENTURY 'OTHIC $UOMO USUALLY OPEN DAILY AMnPM EXCEPT DURING SERVICES IS REDEEMED BY A lNE INTERIOR )MMEDIATELY NOTICEABLE IS THE STRANGE ARCHED CEIL ING A 'UBBIAN SPECIALITY KNOWN AS hWAGON VAULTINGv IN WHICH THE TEN ARCHES ARE GRACEFULLY CURVED APPARENTLY TO EMULATE THE MEETING OF HANDS IN PRAYER 4HERE ARE SOME lNE TWELFTH CENTURY STAINED GLASS WINDOWS A GLITZY "AROQUE
CHAPEL AND A WEALTH OF FRESCOES AND PANEL PAINTINGS +EY WORKS INCLUDE !DORATION OF THE 3HEPHERDS BY %USEBIO DI 3AN 'IORGIO SIXTH NICHE ON THE NORTH WALL A STUDENT OF 0INTURICCHIO THE ADJOINING ALTARPIECE 3ANTA -ARIA -ADDALENA BY 4IMOTEO 6ITO AND A PAINTING NEXT DOOR BY 3INIBALDO )BI -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 3T 5BALDO AND 3T 3EBASTIAN )N THE LAST NICHE ON THE NORTH WALL IS A BEAUTIFULLY RESTORED PICTURE OF 3T 5BALDO WITH A LOVELY GREEN BACKGROUND BY THE 'UBBIAN PAINTER "ENEDETTO .UCCI n 4HE PRESBYTERY CONTAINS A SUPERB CHOIR DATING FROM n SADLY ROPED OFF n WHILE THE ALTAR A 2OMAN SARCOPHAGUS CONCEALS THE RELICS OF SAINTS -ARIANO AND 'IACOMO MARTYRED IN IN WHAT IS NOW !LGERIA "ACK DOWN THE SOUTH WALL TOWARDS THE CHURCH ENTRANCE THE OUTSTANDING PAINTING IS A $EPOSITION BY $ONO $ONI TO THE LEFT OF WHICH IS A GOOD FRAGMENT OF FRESCO OF 3T 3EBASTIAN /FF THIS SIDE OF THE CHURCH IS THE GAUDY #APPELLA DE 33 3ACRAMENTO BUILT ON THE ORDERS OF !LESSANDRO 3PERELLI A SEVENTEENTH CENTURY BISHOP OF 'UBBIO WHO IS BURIED INSIDE 4HE -USEO $IOCESANO
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! FEW PACES DOWN FROM THE $UOMO STANDS THE MODEST BUT WELL PRESENTED -USEO $IOCESANO DAILY !PRILn/CT AMnPM .OVn-ARCH CLOSES HR EARLIER + HOUSED IN THE OLD CANONS PALACE )TS PRIZE EXHIBIT IS A mORID &LEMISH COPE n PARTS OF WHICH WERE STOLEN IN n PRESENTED TO THE CATHE DRAL BY 0OPE -ARCELLUS )) A FORMER BISHOP OF 'UBBIO IN EXTRAVAGANTLY EMBROIDERED IT PORTRAYS SCENES FROM THE 0ASSION 4HERE ARE ALSO A NUMBER OF FRESCOES REMOVED FROM THE CRYPT OF THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA DEI ,AICI AND OTHER lFTEENTH CENTURY MURALS AS WELL AS THE INTERESTING -ADONNA IN 'LORY THIS PAINTING HAD LONG BEEN ATTRIBUTED TO 'UIDUCCIO 0ALMERUCCI CONSIDERED 'UB BIOS EARLIEST DOCUMENTED FOURTEENTH CENTURY PAINTER BUT RECENT RESTORATION HAS REVEALED A NEW SIGNATURE /PUS -ELLI %UGUBII hA WORK BY -ELLO DI 'UBBIOv A PREVIOUSLY UNKNOWN ARTIST 4HE 0ALAZZO $UCALE
/PPOSITE THE $UOMO n AND OVERSHADOWING IT n IS THE 0ALAZZO $UCALE -ON 4UES 4HURSn3UN AMnPM + BUILT IN OVER AN EARLIER ,OMBARD PALACE AND THE TWELFTH CENTURY 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE BY &EDERIGO DA -ONTEFELTRO THE RENOWNED DUKE OF 5RBINO AND DESIGNED AS A SCALED DOWN COPY OF HIS PALACE IN THAT TOWN 4HE ARCHITECT OF THE TWO BUILDINGS WAS PROBABLY THE SAME MAN $ALMATIAN BORN ,UCIANO ,AURANA SELECTED BY &EDERIGO AFTER HED FAILED TO lND A SUITABLY BOLD &LORENTINE DESIGNER 4HE TONE IS SET BY THE CALMING 2ENAISSANCE COURTYARD CLOSE TO WHICH A STONE STAIRCASE LEADS DOWN TO A SERIES OF VAULTED STOREROOMS AND EXCAVATIONS THAT HAVE REVEALED THE REMAINS OF FOUR EARLIER BUILD INGS ON THE SITE !MONG THEM ARE FRAGMENTS FROM THE TENTH CENTURY AND REM NANTS OF THE FORMER 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE !S IN 5RBINO MANY OF THE ROOMS OF THE MAIN PALACE APPEAL AS MUCH FOR THEIR MEASURED ARCHITECTURAL CALM AS FOR ANY SURFEIT OF PAINTINGS OR FURNITURE -OST ARE VIRTUALLY EMPTY HOWEVER AND THE RESULT IS FRANKLY DULL THOUGH THE VIEWS OF THE TOWN FROM CERTAIN SALONS MAKE SOME AMENDS /NE ROOM THE DUKES STUDY OFF ROOM WAS LEFT BARE AFTER ITS INTARSIA WOOD PANELLING WAS STRIPPED IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY IT FOUND ITS WAY TO THE -ETROPOLITAN -USEUM IN .EW 9ORK !LL THE STONE CARVED WINDOWS AND DOORWAYS ARE SUPERB HOWEVER AS ARE THE lREPLACES AND COOL TERRACOTTA mOORS 4HE LARGE CENTRAL 3ALONE OFFERS SOME CRACKING VIEWS OF THE 0ALAZZO DEI #ONSOLI AND CONTAINS A lREPLACE THAT MUST HAVE WORKED WONDERS DURING 'UBBIOS MOUNTAIN COLD WINTERS 1UITE WHAT THE PALACES lNE INTERIOR WILL BE USED FOR n AND IT IS CRYING OUT FOR SOMETHING n IS UNSURE
4HE NORTHERN QUARTERS
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0% 25') ! !.$ . / 24 ( % 2 . 5 - " 2 ) ! 'UBBIO
7ANDERING THE STREETS AROUND TOWN YOULL SOON COME ACROSS EXAMPLES OF 0ORTE DELLA -ORTE h$OORS OF $EATHv n NARROW BRICKED UP DOORWAYS WEDGED INTO THE FACADES OF MEDIEVAL TOWN HOUSES A CONUNDRUM FOUND ONLY IN 'UBBIO !SSISI AND SOUTHERN &RANCE 4HE PARTY LINE HAS IT THEY WERE CUT TO CARRY A COFlN OUT OF THE HOUSE AND THEN HAVING BEEN TAINTED BY DEATH SEALED UP n A NICE THEORY AND VERY )TALIAN BUT TO JUDGE BY THE CONSTRICTED STAIRWAYS BEHIND THE DOORS THEIR PURPOSE WAS PROBABLY DEFENSIVE THE MAIN DOOR COULD BE BARRICADED LEAVING THE MORE EASILY DEFENDED PASSAGEWAY AS THE ONLY ENTRANCE 'UBBIOS BEST EXAMPLES ARE IN 6IA DEI #ONSOLI 4HERE ARE DOZENS OF SIMILAR PICTURESQUE ODDS AND ENDS AROUND 'UBBIOS STREETS WHICH LEND THEMSELVES TO A SLOW RAMBLE 3OME OF THE BEST ARE IN THE NORTH THE LANES AROUND 3AN $OMENICO AND ESPECIALLY ALONG THE BANKS OF THE #AMIGNANO ARE THE MOST TEMPTING 6IA "ALDASSINI BELOW 0IAZZA 'RANDE IS ALSO WORTH A STROLL %N ROUTE TO THESE POINTS FROM 0IAZZA 'RANDE THE "ARGELLO n BUILT IN AS THE MEDIEVAL POLICE STATION n IN 6IA DEI #ONSOLI IS WORTH TRACKING DOWN AND GIVES YOU A CHANCE TO SURVEY THE ADJOINING &ONTANA DEI -ATTI &OUNTAIN OF THE -AD ONCE 'UBBIOS PRIME WATER SOURCE BUT NOW UNDISTINGUISHED SAVE FOR THE TRADITION THAT ANYONE WALKING ROUND IT THREE TIMES WILL WIND UP DERANGED 4HERES USUALLY SOMEONE ABOUT WONDERING WHETHER TO GIVE IT A GO YOU QUALIFY FOR A PATENTE DA MATTO hLICENCE OF MADNESSv IF YOU MAKE THE RUN AND ARE SIMUL TANEOUSLY SOAKED WITH WATER BY THREE LOCALS 6IA DEI #ONSOLI IS HOME TO MOST OF 'UBBIOS CERAMIC SHOPS TOGETHER WITH /FlCINA ,IBRIS A NICE SHOP SELLING PAPER AND LEATHER BOUND BOOKS AT NO &ROM HERE YOU CAN HEAD EAST TOWARDS THE FUNICULAR SEE P OR DROP DOWN TO LOOK INTO THE NEARBY CHURCH OF 3AN $OMENICO CLOSED AT THE TIME OF WRIT ING FOR LONG TERM RESTORATION DISTINGUISHED BY A lNE INTARSIA LECTERN OR TAKE IN THE IMPRESSIVE lFTEENTH CENTURY 0ALAZZO "ENI AND 0ALAZZO DEL #APITANO DEL 0OPOLO THE LATTER HOME TO AN ODD LITTLE PRIVATE MUSEUM OF MODERN SCULP TURE AND MEDIEVAL TORTURE INSTRUMENTS &OLLOWING THE WALLS ANTICLOCKWISE BACK TO THE 0IAZZA 1UARANTA -ARTIRI YOU COULD DETOUR TO THE !NlTEATRO 2OMANO DAILY !PRILn3EPT AMnPM /CTn-ARCH AMnPM FREE "UILT IN THE lRST CENTURY !$ ITS ONE OF THE LARGEST IN THE 2OMAN WORLD AT M IN DIAMETER )T RETAINS ITS SEATS AND MUCH OF THE LOWER ARCADES n THE ARENA PROVIDING THE SETTING FOR A SUMMER FESTIVAL OF 3HAKESPEARE AND CLASSICAL DRAMA #URRENT EXCAVATIONS ARE UNCOVERING MORE REMAINS #LOSE BY IS A 2OMAN MAUSOLEUM A BLOCKHOUSE AFFAIR M HIGH EAS ILY REACHED FROM 0IAZZA DEL -ERCATO NO ONE IS SURE FOR WHOM IT WAS INTENDED 4HE SOUTHERN QUARTERS
! PATH NEAR THE $UOMO ZIGZAGS UP -ONTE )NGINO BUT THE PANORAMIC WAY UP IS TO TAKE THE HIGHLY RECOMMENDED FUNICULAR SEE P %N ROUTE TO THE BASE STATION AT 0ORTA 2OMANA n WALK PART OF THE WAY ON #ORSO 'ARIBALDI FOR A GOOD VIEW OF THE LARGE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY STATUE OF 3T 5BALDO AT THE STREETS END n YOU CAN TAKE IN /TTAVIANO .ELLIS MASTERPIECE THE WINSOME -ADONNA DEL "ELVEDERE IN THE DECONSECRATED 3ANTA -ARIA .UOVA TOGETHER WITH PATCHES OF FRESCO LEFT BY HIS PUPILS IF THE CHURCH IS SHUT TRY THE CUSTODIAN AT 6IA $ANTE ,ITTLE 3ANT!NDREA NEARBY PROBABLY OF ELEVENTH CENTURY FOUNDA TION AND RECENTLY RESTORED IS ALSO WORTH A PASSING LOOK 0ORTA 2OMANA ITSELF HAS A SMALL MUSEUM THE -USEO DELLA #ERAMICA A ,USTRO DI 4ORRE -EDIOVALE DI 0ORTA 2OMANA DAILY *UNEn3EPT AMnPM nPM /CTn-AY AMnPM nPM + DEVOTED TO LOCAL CERAMICS AND DISPLAYS ON THE MECHANICS OF DEFENDING A MEDIEVAL GATEWAY
*UST OUTSIDE THE WALLS THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY 3ANT!GOSTINO IS NOTABLE FOR ITS APSE WHICH IS SMOTHERED IN .ELLI FRESCOES OF 3CENES FROM THE ,IFE OF 3T !UGUSTINE THERES A LIGHT ON THE RIGHT SOUTH SIDE ALONGSIDE A GLASS CASKET CONTAINING THE WAXY IMAGE OF "EATO 0IETRO OF 'UBBIO 4HE ENTIRE CHURCH WAS ONCE FRESCOED AND TANTALIZING FRAGMENTS REMAIN DOTTED AROUND THE WALLS THE SIXTH ARCH CUM CHAPEL ON THE RIGHT HAS A PARTICULARLY GOOD FRESCO BY A FOLLOWER OF .ELLI THE THIRD ARCH HAS A PAINTING BY .ELLI AND HIS WORKSHOP SHOWING THE -ADONNA WITH SAINTS ANGELS AND PURGED SOULS AND ON THE NORTH WALL THE lFTH ALTAR FEATURES AN ANONYMOUS -ADONNA DEL 3OCCORSO WITH VARIOUS !UGUSTIN IAN SAINTS -ONTE )NGINO
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\ 'UBBIO
9OU CAN WALK TO -ONTE )NGINO M ONE OF THE MOUNTAINS ABOVE 'UB BIO FROM 0ORTA 3ANT5BALDO NEAR THE $UOMO A STIFF CLIMB OR DRIVE THERE FROM 0ORTA -ETAURO IN THE NORTH 4HE MOST ENTERTAINING WAY TO REACH THE TOP HOWEVER IS COURTESY OF THE SIX MINUTE FUNICULAR FROM 0ORTA 2OMANA *ULY !UG -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM *UNE 3EPT -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM !PRIL -AY -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM /CT DAILY AMnPM -ARCH -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM .OV $EC DAILY EXCEPT 7ED AMnPM + ONE WAY + RETURN )T HAS OPEN SKI LIFT TYPE CAGES HOLDING TWO PEOPLE AND AFFORDS AMPLE TIME TO ADMIRE THE VIEW n AND TO STUDY YOUR CAGES WELDING AND BOLTS WHICH ARE ALL THAT LIE BETWEEN YOU AND OBLIVION "EWARE THE OFF SEASON BREAK FOR LUNCH /CTn$EC -ARCHn-AY DAILY *UNE -ONn3AT CLOSED nPM /NCE YOURE ATOP -ONTE )NGINO THE VIEWS AND A BAR ARE THE MAIN ATTRACTIONS %VEN BETTER VISTAS ARE AT HAND IF YOU CLIMB UP TO THE 2OCCA 4HE "ASILICA DI 3ANT5BALDO lVE MINUTES FROM THE TOP STATION IS NOT OF GREAT INTEREST THOUGH ITS REVERED FOR THE BODY OF THE TOWNS PATRON SAINT WHOSE MISSING THREE lNGERS WERE HACKED OFF BY HIS MANSERVANT AS A RELIGIOUS KEEPSAKE )NSIDE YOU CANT MISS THE BIG WOODEN PILLARS OR CERI CANDLES FEATURED IN 'UBBIOS ANNUAL #ORSA DEI #ERI SEE BOX P
%ATING 'UBBIO OFFERS SOME lNE SMALL TOWN COOKING #HEAPER RESTAURANTS CAN BE FOUND AT THE NORTHERN END OF 6IA DEI #ONSOLI ALONG WITH A GOOD STOP FOR ICE CREAM n 'ELATERIA DI 'INO 6IA DEI #ONSOLI 4HIS IS ALSO THE PART OF TOWN FOR FOOD SHOPPING THERES A SMALL $ESPAR SUPERMARKET AT 6IA .ICOLA 6ANTAGGI OFF 0IAZZA 'IORDANO "RUNI PLUS A GOOD BAKERY AT 6IA DEI #ONSOLI AND A FRUIT AND VEGETABLE STORE TWO DOORS BELOW THAT ,OW PRICED RESTAURANTS ALSO DOT SOME OF THE SIDE STREETS OFF #ORSO 'ARIBALDI IN THE SOUTH &IRST CHOICE IS THE ONE ATTACHED TO 'ROTTA DELL!NGELO HOTEL 6IA 'IOIA CLOSED 4UES WHICH HAS A WONDERFUL CAVE OF A DINING ROOM THE GROTTA OF ITS NAME .OT FAR AWAY IS THE INEXPENSIVE 3AN &RANCESCO E IL ,UPO 6IA #ARIOLI FOR PIZZAS OR FULL MEALS n THOUGH SERVICE CAN BE SLOPPY 9OUD DO BETTER TO MAKE FOR )L #AMPANONE NO CLOSING DAY NEAR THE CORNER OF 6IA "ALDASSINI AND 6IA 0ICCARDI )T HAS SEVERAL LOVELY DINING AREAS n VAULTED MEDIEVAL ROOMS WITH CRISP WHITE LINEN AND SMART RED WOODEN CHAIRS THE MODERATELY PRICED FOOD IS REGIONAL 7ELL KNOWN OPTIONS INCLUDE THE EXPENSIVE 4AVERNA DEL ,UPO 6IA !NSIDEI CLOSED -ON A MORE TRADITIONAL PLACE WITH MEDIEVAL INTERIOR AND PROBABLY A TOUCH BETTER n THOUGH OCCASIONALLY MORE COMPLACENT n THAN ITS SMALLER AND LESS COSTLY UPMARKET RIVAL THE VAGUELY MODISH ,A &ORNACE DI -AESTRO 'IORGIO 6IA -AESTRO
'IORGIO CLOSED 4UES LUNCH ON 7ED ALSO CLOSED &EB SITED IN THE CONVERTED WORKSHOP OF ONE OF 'UBBIOS MEDIEVAL MASTER CERAMISTS 4HE "OSONE 'ARDEN RESTAURANT CLOSED 7ED ATTACHED TO THE "OSONE HOTEL OPPOSITE -AESTRO 'IORGIO HAS AN INTERESTING MENU INCLUDING SUMMER BARBECUES AND DESPITE THE NASTY PLASTIC CHAIRS IS THE NICEST SPOT FOR OUTDOOR EATING
'UALDO 4ADINO
4HE 4OWN
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4HE 'OTHIC $UOMO ALSO KNOWN AS 3AN "ENEDETTO IS LOCATED IN THE CENTRAL 0IAZZA -ARTIRI DELLA ,IBERTÌ AND BOASTS A FACADE SIMILAR TO THE ONE IN 4ODI n THE THREE TIERED ARRANGEMENT BEING A RECURRENT 5MBRIAN DESIGN n AND A lNE CARVED DOORWAY AND ROSE WINDOW THE INTERIOR THOUGH WAS DONE TO DEATH IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY 4HE LITTLE FOUNTAIN ON THE BUILDINGS #ORSO )TALIA mANK IS ATTRIBUTED TO !NTONIO DA 3ANGALLO THE %LDER /PPOSITE THE CATHEDRAL IS THE 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE OF EIGHTEENTH CENTURY VINTAGE AND CLOSE BY IS THE NICELY RESTORED 0ALAZZO DEL 0ODESTÌ 6ARIOUS WORKS OF ART LEFT TO THE CATHEDRAL OVER THE YEARS ARE CURRENTLY HIDDEN FROM PUBLIC VIEW OWING TO LACK OF FUNDS AND THE HIGH PROBABILITY THEYLL BE LIFTED BY THIEVES 3IMILAR WORRIES PREVAILED IN THE TOWNS SMALL ART GALLERY WHICH IS CLOSED INDElNITELY THOUGH MOST OF ITS WORKS HAVE BEEN MOVED TO THE -USEO #IVICO *UNEn3EPT 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM !PRIL -AY 4HURSn3UN AMnPM nPM /CTn-ARCH 3AT 3UN AMnPM nPM + HOUSED IN THE IMPOSING 2OCCA &LEA IN 6IA DELLA 2OCCA A lNE LOOKING FORTRESS RECONSTRUCTED BY THE GREAT %MPEROR &REDERICK )) )TS ARRANGED IN THREE SECTIONS INCLUDING AN ANTIQUARIUM WITH ARCHEOLOGICAL lNDS FROM THE TOWN AND ITS SURROUNDINGS A SECTION DEVOTED TO CERAMICS WHICH FOR CENTURIES WERE THE TOWNS ECONOMIC LIFEBLOOD AND A PICTURE GALLERY THE REAL REASON FOR A VISIT -OST OF THE GALLERY EXHIBITS ARE BY -ATTEO DA 'UALDO MERCILESSLY LAMPOONED BY NINETEENTH CENTURY CRITICS FOR HIS hINCORRECT DRAWINGv THOUGH HIS BRILLIANT COLOURING HAS SINCE RESTORED HIM TO CRITICAL FAVOUR (OWEVER -ATTEOS PAINT INGS TOGETHER WITH A 3IENESE #ORONATION OF THE 6IRGIN BY 3ANO DI 0IETRO ARE ECLIPSED BY A SUBLIME POLYPTYCH BY .ICOLÛ !LUNNO WHOM "ERENSON
0% 25') ! !.$ . / 24 ( % 2 . 5 - " 2 ) ! 'UALDO 4ADINO
4HE MAIN CENTRE EAST OF 'UBBIO IS '5!,$/ 4!$)./ A HILL TOWN THAT TAKES ITS NAME FROM THE 'ERMAN 7ALD WOOD A THROWBACK TO THE DAYS OF THE (OLY 2OMAN %MPIRE AND )TALYS NORTHERN %UROPEAN RULERS @@4ADINO WAS ONLY TAGGED ON IN )T OCCUPIES THE SITE OF ANCIENT 4ADINUM A 2OMAN STAGING POST ON THE 6IA &LAMINIA AND LIES CLOSE TO THE SITE OF THE BATTLElELD AT WHICH .ARSES A EUNUCH AND RENOWNED "YZANTINE GENERAL KILLED 4OTILA AND WON A FAMOUS VICTORY OVER THE 'OTHS IN ,ATER IT WAS THE BIRTHPLACE OF -ATTEO DA 'UALDO n AN ACCOMPLISHED BUT LITTLE KNOWN PAINTER AT LEAST OUTSIDE 5MBRIA WHOSE WORKS CROP UP IN !SSISI 4REVI AND 3POLETO AS WELL AS IN HIS HOME TOWN 4ODAY THE TOWN WHICH SPRAWLS OVER THE LOWER SLOPES OF THE !PENNINES HAS THE REMOTE OUTPOST FEEL OF OTHER EASTERN 5MBRIAN TOWNS "UT WHILE THE MEDIEVAL CENTRE IS A TOUCH BLEAK WITH LITTLE OF SUBSTANCE TO SEE ITS QUIET AND ATMOSPHERIC AND MAKES A GOOD BASE FOR EXPLORING THE BEAUTIFUL -ONTE #UCCO REGION SEE P %CONOMIC WELL BEING mOWS FROM THE TOWNS RENOWNED CERAMICS BEST SEEN DURING A BIG SUMMER EXHIBITION DEVOTED TO THE CRAFT 4HE TOWN WAS BADLY HIT BY THE EARTHQUAKE ACCESSIBILITY AND OPENING TIMES OF ALL SITES REMAIN SUBJECT TO CHANGE FOR THE FORESEEABLE FUTURE
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\ 0ARCO 2EGIONALE DEL -ONTE #UCCO
DESCRIBED AS hTHE lRST PAINTER IN WHOM THE EMOTIONAL NOW PASSIONATE AND VIOLENT NOW MYSTIC AND ECSTATIC TEMPERAMENT OF 3T &RANCISS COUNTRYMEN WAS REVEALEDv 4HE CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCESCO IF OPEN CALL THE -UNICIPIO FOR INFORMATION IS ALSO PICTORIALLY REWARDING $ECONSECRATED ITS AIRY INTERIOR IS USED FOR TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS AND FEATURES FRESCOES ON THE ,IFE OF 3T *ULIAN BY THE SCHOOL OF /TTAVIANO .ELLI ABOVE THE WEST DOOR A LUNETTE WITH A DAMAGED -ADONNA HIGH ON THE SOUTH WALL AND A LARGE PAINTED #RUCIlX IN THE APSE BY A FOLLOWER OF THE -AESTRO DI 3AN &RANCESCO SEE P /N THE NORTH SIDE OF THE CHURCH ALSO LOOK OUT FOR PART OF A 2OMAN SARCOPHAGUS mANKED BY TWO WINGED lGURES REPRESENTING 6ICTORY AND THE UNMISSABLE RAISED FOURTEENTH CENTURY PULPIT !MONG THE APSE FRESCOES IS A #RUCIlXION BY -AT TEO DA 'UALDO WHO ALSO LEFT A -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 3T &RANCIS IN THE THIRD ARCH ON THE LEFT AND ANOTHER -ADONNA AND #HILD ON THE PILLAR BETWEEN THE lRST AND SECOND CHAPELS THE LAST IS THE ARTISTS OLDEST KNOWN WORK 4HERES ANOTHER BRIGHT -ATTEO TRIPTYCH n THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 3T 3EBASTIAN AND 3T 2OCH n IN THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA DEI 2ACCOMANDATI IN 0IAZZA 88 3ETTEMBRE CLOSE BY )F THE PAINTINGS OF -ATTEO REALLY APPEAL ITS WORTH DRIVING TO THE HILL VILLAGE OF 3!. 0%,,%'2)./ KM NORTHWEST OFF THE 33 'UBBIO ROAD WHERE THE CHURCH OF 3AN &ACONDINO NOTE THE TENTH CENTURY TOWER HAS SEVERAL OF HIS FRESCOES AND A TRIPTYCH BY 'IOVANNI DI #AMERINO RECOVERED AFTER ITS THEFT 0RACTICALITIES
'IVEN THE EARTHQUAKE DAMAGED STATE OF 'UALDO THE TOWN IS BEST SEEN AS PART OF A DAY TRIP THAT MIGHT ALSO TAKE IN THE MOUNTAINS TO THE EAST AND NORTH )TS AN EASY TRIP BY BUS FROM 'UBBIO AND THREE BUSES RUN DAILY FROM &OLIGNO -ONn3AT TRAINS FROM !SSISI &OLIGNO OR 3POLETO ARE FREQUENT AND THERES A SHUTTLE BUS FROM THE TRAIN STATION TO THE OLD CENTRE 4HE ONLY HOTEL IN THE CENTRO STORICO IS THE TWELVE ROOM TWO STAR "OTTAIO 6IA #ASIMIRI THOUGH PLANS ARE IN HAND TO RECONSTRUCT THE 'IGIOTTO HOTEL 6IA -ORONE CURRENTLY THE TOWNS MOST VENERABLE RESTAU RANT CLOSED 4UES .OV &OR PIZZAS IN THE OLD CENTRE MAKE FOR "ACCUS IN 6AI 2 #ALAI CLOSED -ON 4HE NEAREST CAMPSITE IS IN THE MOUNTAINS AT 6ALSORDA SEE BELOW
0ARCO 2EGIONALE DEL -ONTE #UCCO 3OME OF 5MBRIAS BEST UPLAND SCENERY IS TO BE FOUND IN THE MOUNTAINS EAST AND NORTH OF 'UALDO ON THE BORDER WITH THE -ARCHE MUCH OF IT PROTECTED BY THE 0ARCO 2EGIONALE DEL -ONTE #UCCO 7HERE THIS AREA REALLY SCORES IS IN ITS ORGANIZED TRAILS AND BACKUP FOR OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES OF EVERY KIND IF YOU WANT TO DON WALKING BOOTS WITHOUT TOO MUCH FUSS THIS IS THE AREA TO DO IT n AND THE CHANCES ARE YOU WONT MEET ANOTHER SOUL ALL DAY !CCESS IS EASY WITH BUSES FROM 'UALDO TO 6ALSORDA AND FROM 0ERUGIA 'UALDO 'UBBIO AND !SSISI TO #OSTACCIARO 4HE SOUTHERNMOST BASE FOR EXPLORATION OF THE PARK IS THE RESORT OF 6!,3 /2$! M KM NORTHEAST OF 'UALDO 2EGULAR BUSES RUN FROM 'UALDO TO THE VILLAGE WHICH IS A LAUNCHING PAD FOR EASY HILL WALKS AND IS A REASONABLY SCENIC IF DEVELOPED SPOT IN ITS OWN RIGHT 9OU CAN TACKLE THE STRAIGHTFORWARD TREK UP 3ERRA 3ANTA M ON A TRACK OF MOTORWAY PROPORTIONS CARVED OUT
BY PILGRIMS OVER THE YEARS &ROM THE SUMMIT YOU COULD THEN DROP INTO THE SPECTACULAR 6ALLE DEL &ONNO GORGE AND FOLLOW IT DOWN TO 'UALDO 0ATHS FOLLOW THE MAIN RIDGE FROM 6ALSORDA NORTH AND SOUTH AND ITS FEASIBLE TO WALK ALL THE WAY TO .OCERA 5MBRA 4O GET CLOSER TO THE HEART OF THE MOUNTAINS HEAD NORTH FROM 'UALDO PAST &/33!4/ $) 6)#/ A HILL TOWN WITH THE ELEVENTH CENTURY 2OMANESQUE 3AN 0IETRO AND THE SMALL #APPELLA DELLA 0IAGGIOLA WHICH CONTAINS SOME lNE FRESCOES BY THE SCHOOL OF /TTAVIANO .ELLI "EYOND &OSSATO THE ROAD PASSES THROUGH 3)'),,/ AND THEN KM FURTHER ON #/34!##)!2/ A TOWN THAT LOOKS RATHER AS IF IT HAS TRIED TO ATTRACT TOURISTS AND FAILED IT IS A CENTRE OF SORTS FOR THE PARKS OUTDOOR PURSUITS AND ACCESS POINT FOR THE 'ROTTA DI -ONTE #UCCO AT M THE lFTH DEEPEST CAVE SYSTEM IN THE WORLD 4HE CAVE WAS EXPLORED AS EARLY AS BUT HAS ONLY RECENTLY BEEN OPENED UP BY THE HUNDREDS OF CAVERS THAT mOCK HERE FROM ALL OVER %UROPE OVER KM OF GALLERIES HAVE NOW BEEN CHARTED !BOVE THE HUGE BARE SLOPED -ONTE #UCCO M IS THE MAIN PLAY GROUND FOR WALKERS 0RACTICALITIES
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0% 25') ! !.$ . / 24 ( % 2 . 5 - " 2 ) ! 4RAVEL DETAILS
&OR INFORMATION HEAD TO THE PARKS ADMINISTRATIVE OFlCE AT 6IA -ATTEOTTI IN 3IGILLO WWWPARKSITPARCOMONTECUCCO OR TO THE #ENTRO %SCURSIONISTICO IN #OSTACCIARO 6IA 'ALEAZZI WWWCENSIT 5NUSUALLY FOR )TALY REASONABLE MAPS ARE AVAILABLE OF THE PARK THE +OM PASS SHEET h!SSISIn#AMERINOv COVERS THE AREA AROUND 'UALDO AND THERES A SPECIAL TRAIL MAP THAT YOU MAY BE ABLE TO PICK UP IN 3IGILLO OR #OSTACCIARO NEWSAGENTS AND BOOKSHOPS n INCLUDING THE BAR NEWSAGENTS IN 0IAZZA 1UARANTA -ARTIRI IN 'UBBIO n SOMETIMES STOCK IT BUT DONT BANK ON lNDING A COPY 4HERES A BED HOSTEL 5NIVERSITÌ 6OLO ,IBERO + POPULAR WITH HANG GLIDERS ABOUT KM SOUTHEAST OF #OSTACCIARO AT THE HAMLET OF 3#)2#! ON THE . ROAD )N THE PAST THE #ENTRO %SCURSIONISTICO HAS ALSO OFFERED HOSTEL ACCOMMODATION CALL AHEAD FOR THE LATEST 4HE HOTEL -ONTE #UCCO DA 4OBIA IS A FABLED MOUNTAINEERS AND CAVERS HANGOUT IN THE 6AL DI 2ANCO EAST OF 3IGILLO !LSO CONVENIENT FOR WALKERS IS THE ONE STAR #APPELLONI 6AL DI 2ANCO -AYn3EPT )N 3IGILLO THE ONLY HOTEL IS THE THREE STAR $OMINUS 6IA -ATTEOTTI WWW DOMINUSHOTELIT 4HESE THREE ALL HAVE RESTAURANTS -ONTE #UCCOS BIG SEAT PLACE IS CLOSED -ON THE #APPELLONIS IS CLOSED 4UES WHILE IN #OSTACCIARO YOU CAN EAT AT THE RESTAURANT ROSTICCERIA 0ALLUCONI IN 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI NO CLOSING DAY OR THE "OCCONERA IN #ORSO -AZZINI CLOSED 7ED 4HE NEAREST CAMPSITE FOR THE PARK IS 2IO 6ERDE WWWCAMPINGRIOVERDEIT %ASTERn3EPT AT &ORNACE KM NORTH OF #OSTACCIARO )T ALSO OFFERS BUNGALOWS FOR TWO AND FOUR PEOPLE AT + PER PERSON + IN *ULY !UG &REELANCE CAMPING IS PROHIBITED WITHIN THE PARK BUT ELSEWHERE YOULL HAVE FEW PROBLEMS lNDING A DISCREET PITCH FOR A TENT !T 6ALSORDA PERCHED AT M IS THE FORTY PITCH ONE STAR CAMPSITE 6ALSORDA *UNEn3EPT
4RAVEL DETAILS 4HE EXCELLENT WEBSITE WWWUMBRIATRASPORTIIT HAS LINKS TO FULL AND UPDATED TIMETABLES FOR ALL PUBLIC TRANSPORT INCLUDING THE PRIVATE AND STATE RAIL SERVICES AND THE !4# !0- AND 33)4 BUS SERVICES
4RAINS #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO TO 0ERUGIA HOURLY MIN 3AN SEPOLCRO HOURLY MIN &OSSATO DI 6ICO FOR 'UBBIO TO &OLIGNO n DAILY MIN 'UALDO 4ADINO n DAILY MIN .OCERA 5MBRA n DAILY MIN /RTE DAILY HR MIN 2OME DAILY HR MIN 3POLETO DAILY HR MIN 4ERNI DAILY HR MIN 0ERUGIA TO !SSISI HOURLY MIN #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO HOURLY MIN $ERUTA HOURLY MIN &LORENCE DAILY HR MIN &OLIGNO HOURLY MIN n FOR CONNECTIONS TO 3POLETO &OSSATO DI 6ICO 4ERNI .ARNI AND /RTE 0ASSIGNANO HOURLY MIN 3ANSEPOLCRO HOURLY HR MIN 3PELLO HOURLY MIN 4ERNI HOURLY HR MIN 4ERØNTOLA HOURLY MIN n FOR CONNECTIONS DAILY TO 2OME AND ALSO 3IENA 4ODI HOURLY MIN
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\ 4RAVEL DETAILS
#ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO TO 2OME 4IBURTINA DAILY HR MIN 2OME &IUMICINO AIRPORT -ONn3AT
DAILY HR MIN 4ODI -ONn3AT DIRECT DAILY HR 'UBBIO TO &OSSATO DI 6ICO TRAIN STATION CONTINU ING TO 'UALDO 4ADINO AND .OCERA 5MBRA DAILY MIN 0ERUGIA -ONn3AT DAILY ON 3UN HR MIN 2OME DAILY HR MIN 0ERUGIA TO !SCOLI 0ICENO n DAILY HR !SSISI n DAILY MIN #ASTIGLIONE DEL ,AGO -ONn3AT n DAILY HR MIN #HIUSI -ONn3AT DAILY HR MIN #ITTÌ DELLA 0IEVE -ONn3AT DAILY HR MIN &LORENCE DAILY HR 'UALDO 4ADINO -ONn3AT DAILY ON 3UN HR MIN 'UBBIO -ONn3AT DAILY ON 3UN HR MIN .OCERA 5MBRA -ONn3AT DAILY HR MIN .ORCIA DIRECT DAILY HR MIN /RVIETO DAILY HR MIN 0ASSIGNANO -ONn3AT DAILY HR MIN 2OME n DAILY HR MIN 2OME &IUMICINO AIR PORT n DAILY HR 3IENA n DAILY HR MIN 3PELLO -ONn3AT DAILY MIN 3POLETO -ONn3AT DAILY DIRECT HR MIN 4ODI VIA $ERUTA -ONn3AT n DAILY HR MIN 4ORGIANO -ONn3AT DAILY MIN
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4 "ASILICA DI 3AN &RANC ESCO !SSISI /NE OF )TALYS GREAT BUILDINGS AND THE BURIAL PLACE OF 3T &RANCIS 3EE P
4 4EMPIO DI -INERVA !SSISI !N EXCELLENTLY PRESERVED lRST CENTURY TEMPLE FRONT 3EE P !3 3 ) 3 ) !. $ 4 ( % 6! , % / & 3 0 / , % 4/
4 3PELLO #HARMING HILL TOWN WHOSE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA -AGGIORE HOSTS A FRESCO CYCLE BY 0INTURICCHIO 3EE P
4 -ONTE 3UBASIO 'REAT WALKS AND DRIVES ON THE MOUNTAIN ABOVE !SSISI WITH SPECTACULAR VIEWS
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4 "EVAGNA #APTIVATING VIL LAGE KNOWN FOR ITS MEDI EVAL MAIN SQUARE AND lNE 2OMANESQUE CHURCHES 3EE P
4 -ONTEFALCO (OME OF THE OUTSTANDING 3AGRAN TINO 0ASSITO WINE PLUS A MAJOR FRESCO CYCLE BY "ENOZZO 'OZZOLI 3EE P
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HE 6ALE OF 3POLETO THE BROAD PLAIN BETWEEN 0ERUGIA AND 3POLETO IS 5MBRIAS HISTORIC AND SPIRITUAL HEARTLAND A SWEEP OF COUNTRYSIDE THAT IS BEAUTIFUL IN PARTS AND HAS A MAJESTIC FOCUS IN !SSISI "IRTHPLACE OF 3T &RANCIS )TALYS PREMIER SAINT THIS HILL TOWN HAS BEEN AN OBJECT OF PIL GRIMAGE FOR OVER SEVEN HUNDRED YEARS NOW ATTRACTING A STAGGERING lVE MILLION OR MORE VISITORS ANNUALLY )T HAS ALSO LONG EMERGED FROM THE TRAUMA OF THE EARTHQUAKE WHICH BROUGHT THE TOWN TO WORLDWIDE PROMINENCE WHEN PART OF THE FAMOUS "ASILICA DI 3AN &RANCESCO COLLAPSED KILLING FOUR AND DESTROYING SOME MINOR FRESCOES 1UIETER HILL TOWNS ARE JUST AROUND THE CORNER 3PELLO THE MOST ACCESSIBLE REMAINS JUST AHEAD OF THE TOURIST BOOM n THOUGH THE VISITORS HAVE ARRIVED n AND FEATURES MORE ART TREASURES IN THE SHAPE OF 0INTURICCHIOS FRESCOES IN THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA -AGGIORE .EARBY "EVAGNA LIKE 3PELLO AN OUTPOST ON THE 2OMAN 6IA &LAMINIA IS A TINY WALL ENCLOSED VILLAGE LOCKED AROUND A CEN TRAL SQUARE THATS ALMOST WITHOUT EQUAL IN 5MBRIA ,ORDING IT OVER THE VALE IS -ONTEFALCO A WINDBLOWN HIVE OF MEDIEVAL STREETS THAT IS HOME TO YET ANOTHER SUPERB FRESCO CYCLE n THIS ONE BY THE 4USCAN "ENOZZO 'OZZOLI n AND ONE OF THE PROVINCES STRANGEST ATTRACTIONS A QUARTET OF MUMMIlED HOLY CORPSES !CROSS THE VALLEY IS 4REVI RELATIVELY LITTLE VISITED BUT IN THE THROES OF A RENAISSANCE AND PERHAPS THE MOST PERFECTLY SITUATED OF ALL )TALIAN HILL TOWNS -OSTLY MODERN &OLIGNO THE REGIONAL CAPITAL HAS A SPRAWLING LIMITED PROVINCIAL APPEAL AND A HANDSOME $UOMO AND PROVIDES A GOOD STANDBY FOR ACCOMMODATION &OLIGNO IS THE CENTRE OF THE NETWORK OF TRANSPORT LINKS THROUGHOUT THE REGION 4HE MAIN RAIL LINK FROM 2OME TO !NCONA PASSES THROUGH &OLIGNO WHENCE THERE ARE CONNECTIONS TO 3POLETO 4ERNI AND .ARNI TO THE SOUTH .OCERA AND 'UALDO 4ADINO TO THE NORTH AND A BRANCH LINE SPUR THAT RUNS TO 4ERØNTOLA VIA 3PELLO !SSISI AND 0ERUGIA "USES RADIATE FROM &OLIGNO TO THE LOCAL VILLAGES AND
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!SSISI FESTIVAL CALENDAR %ASTER WEEK n 0ROCESSIONS AND FESTIVITIES THOUGHOUT THE WEEK #ALENDIMAGGIO WEEK FOLLOWING THE ST 4UES IN -AY n 0ROCESSION TO CELEBRATE 3T &RANCISS VISION OF ,ADY 0OVERTY &ESTA DELLA 6OTO *UNE n 0ROCESSION IN MEDIEVAL COSTUME TO CELEBRATE THE TOWNS SALVATION 0ERDONO !UG n n 0ILGRIMAGE TO THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA DEGLI !NGELI 0ALIO DELLA "ALESTRA !UG n -EDIEVAL TOURNAMENT &ESTA DI 3AN &RANCESCO /CT n n 4HE BIG EVENT A MAJOR PILGRIMAGE THAT DRAWS CROWDS OF PILGRIMS AND ECCLESIASTICS FROM ALL OVER )TALY AND BEYOND &ESTA DEL #ORPUS $OMINI .OV n !NOTHER MAJOR PROCESSION THROUGH mOWER STREWN STREETS
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PILGRIMS BOTH RELIGIOUS AND SECULAR !SSISI JUST ABOUT REMAINS A TOWN WITH AN UNCOMPROMISED IDENTITY n AS AN OVERNIGHT STAY AFTER THE CAR PARKS HAVE CLEARED WILL REVEAL !T CLOSE QUARTERS THE TACKY TOURIST PARAPHERNALIA AND RELIGIOUS KITSCH ARE OFFSET BY TRANQUIL BACKSTREETS GERANIUM lLLED WINDOWBOXES AND BUILDINGS IN THE MUTED ROSY STONE THAT DISTINGUISHES ALL THE VALES TOWNS 7ITH SUFlCIENT ENTHUSIASM YOU CAN SEE ALMOST ALL THE SIGHTS IN A DAY BUT BE WARNED THIS IS THE THIRD MOST VISITED PILGRIMAGE SITE IN )TALY AFTER 3T 0ETERS IN 2OME AND 0ADRE 0IOS SHRINE IN 0UGLIA !SSISIS HISTORY IS NOT ALL TIED TO THE &RANCISCAN MASTHEAD &OUNDED BY THE 5MBRIANS n IN CONTRAST TO 0ERUGIAS %TRUSCAN HERITAGE n THE TOWN LATER ACHIEVED PROMINENCE AS !SISIUM A 2OMAN MUNICIPIUM 4HEREAFTER INVADERS PASSED IT OVER ATTRACTED BY THE RICHER PICKINGS OF 0ERUGIA BUT IN THE END IT FELL UNDER THE CONTROL OF THAT CITYS MONSTROUS "AGLIONI FAMILY 4HESE WERE CHARAC TERS SAID ONE &RANCISCAN HISTORIAN hWHO DID NOT SHUDDER TO MURDER MEN COOK THEIR mESH AND GIVE IT TO THE RELATIONS OF THE SLAIN TO EAT IN THEIR PRISON DUN GEONSv 0LAGUE FAMINE AND EVENTUALLY #HURCH CONTROL TURNED THE TOWN INTO A MORIBUND BACKWATER (OWEVER &RANCISS ELEVATION TO THE STATUS OF NATIONAL SAINT IN MANAGED TO REVERSE ITS ECONOMIC DECLINE AND TODAY RELIGIOUS AND OTHER TOURISM HAVE MADE THIS A VERY PROSPEROUS TOWN INDEED
!RRIVAL AND INFORMATION 4HERE ARE ROUGHLY HOURLY TRAINS FROM &OLIGNO VIA 3PELLO AND FROM 4ERØNTOLA VIA 0ERUGIA WHICH IS ONLY HALF AN HOUR AWAY TO !SSISIS DELIGHTFUL STATION VIRTUALLY REBUILT AFTER THE EARTHQUAKES LOCATED IN THE MODERN SUBURB OF 3ANTA -ARIA DEGLI !NGELI KM SOUTHWEST OF THE OLD TOWN 2OUGHLY HALF HOURLY BUSES FROM THE STATION TICKETS FROM THE STATION KIOSK TAKE TWENTY MINUTES TO REACH 0IAZZA 5NITÌ D)TALIA BELOW THE "ASILICA OR 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI SOME BY WAY OF ,ARGO 0ROPERZIO EAST OF THE "ASILICA DI 3ANTA #HIARA n FROM WHERE THERES AN UNRELIABLE ESCALATOR TO THE GATEWAY AT 0ORTA .UOVA "OTH SQUARES ARE LESS THAN lVE MINUTES WALK FROM THE HEART OF THE MEDIEVAL TOWN 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE 4HE TOWN SLOPES STEEPLY FROM THE "ASILICA DI 3AN &RANCESCO IN THE WEST TO 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI IN THE EAST SO WHEREVER YOU ARRIVE OR STAY YOU CAN BE FACED WITH A CLIMB 4HE MAIN BUS TERMINAL IS IN 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI ABOVE AND BEYOND THE $UOMO ! BOARD IN THE PIAZZAS NORTHWEST CORNER ON THE JUNCTION OF 6IA DEL #OMUNE 6ECCHIO HAS A FULL SCHEDULE FOR BUS DEPARTURES AND THERES AN ELECTRONIC DISPLAY
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\ !CCOMMODATION
&ONTEBELLA 6IA &ONTEBELLA WWW FONTEBELLACOM "Y FAR THE MOST ELEGANT AND INTI MATE OF !SSISIS SMART HOTELS DESPITE ITS THREE STAR RATING AND THE FACT THAT IT IS LESS HIGH PROlLE THAN THE 3UBASIO 4RY FOR A ROOM ON ONE OF THE TOP TWO mOORS FOR VIEWS OVER THE ROOFTOPS AND THE 6ALE OF 3POLETO )DEALE PER 4URISTI 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI WWW HOTELIDEALEIT &OLLOW SIGNS SOUTH FROM 0IAZZA -AT TEOTTI A SHORT WAY OUTSIDE THE WALLS TO REACH THIS SLIGHTLY OUTLYING BUT VERY REASONABLE ELEVEN ROOM TWO STAR HOTEL ALL ROOMS WITH PRIVATE BATHROOM (OTEL PARKING IS A BOON ,A &ORTEZZA 6ICOLO DELLA &ORTEZZA B WWW LAFORTEZZAHOTELCOM &RIENDLY TWO STAR WITH JUST SEVEN ROOMS IN A PERFECT CENTRAL POSITION JUST OFF 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE AND A FEW STEPS FROM THE )TA LIA THE CO OWNED RESTAURANT IS ALSO EXCELLENT ,A 2OCCA 6IA DI 0ORTA 0ERLICI ! lFTEEN ROOM ONE STAR BEYOND THE $UOMO AT THE VERY END OF 6IA DI 0ORTA 0ERLICI 1UIET AND WITH lNE VIEWS FROM SOME ROOMS MOST WITH OWN BATH ,E 3ILVE #APARROCCHIE NEAR !RMENZANO WWWLESILVEIT 4HIS DELIGHTFUL HOTEL IN LOVELY COUNTRYSIDE KM EAST OF !SSISI ON THE SLOPES OF -ONTE 3UBASIO MAKES AN EXCELLENT IF EXPENSIVE ALTERNATIVE TO STAYING IN TOWN ! TRADI TIONAL CONVERTED RURAL HOUSE PARTS OF WHICH DATE BACK TO THE TENTH CENTURY IT SITS AMONG lELDS AND WOODS AND OFFERS PEACE AND QUIET A SWIMMING POOL TENNIS RIDING AND OTHER ACTIVITIES ,O 3CUDO 6IA 3AN &RANCESCO ! SMALL SIGN OUTSIDE A PRETTY
MEDIEVAL HOUSE SIGNALS THIS WELL PLACED SEVEN ROOM ONE STAR DESPITE ITS MODEST RATING ALL ROOMS HAVE PRIVATE BATHROOMS AND YOURE AT THE HEART OF THE ACTION 0ALLOTTA 6IA 3AN 2UlNO WWWPALLOTTAASSISIIT 3EVEN ROOM TWO STAR IN A GOOD LOCATION BETWEEN THE $UOMO AND 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE ALL ROOMS WITH PRIVATE BATHROOM 4HE CO OWNED RESTAURANT JUST OFF 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE IS ALSO GOOD 0ORTA .UOVA 6IALE 5MBERTO ) WWWHOTELPORTANUOVAIT "ASIC THIRTEEN ROOM THREE STAR STANDBY SOUTH OF 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI IN A QUIET AREA ABOVE "ASILICA DI 3ANTA #HIARA 0OSTA E 0ANORAMIC 6IA 3AN 0AOLO n #ENTRALLY LOCATED TWO STAR WITH FOURTEEN ROOMS ALL WITH PRIVATE BATH ROOM WEST OF THE $UOMO n ON THE STREET PARALLEL TO 6IA 3AN &RANCESCO 0ROPERZIO 6IA 3AN &RANCESCO B WWWRISTORANTESANFRANCESCO COM 3IMPLE NINE ROOM TWO STAR HANDILY PLACED ON THE MAIN STREET RIGHT BY THE "ASILICA 3AN &RANCESCO 6IA 3AN &RANCESCO WWW HOTELSANFRANCESCOASSISIIT 2ELIABLE AND CONVE NIENTLY SITUATED THREE STAR HOTEL JUST A MINUTES WALK FROM THE "ASILICA ROOMS n SOME WITH VIEWS n MEAN THERES A GOOD CHANCE OF lNDING SPACE
3AN 0IETRO 0IAZZA 3AN 0IETRO ,ARGE BUT RATHER PERFUNCTORY THREE STAR HOTEL WITH ROOMS BY THE GATE SOUTH OF THE "ASILICA
3OLE #ORSO -AZZINI WWWASSISIHOTELSOLECOM &UNCTIONAL TWO STAR HOTEL WITH NINETEEN ROOMS IN
A CONVENIENT POSITION ONE MINUTES WALK FROM THE "ASILICA DI 3ANTA #HIARA !LSO HAS AN EIGHTEEN ROOM ANNEXE AT #ORSO -AZZINI SO THERES A GOOD CHANCE OF lNDING SPACE WHEN OTHERS ARE FULL 2OOMS VARY IN PRICE BY UP TO + SO ASK TO SEE A RANGE 4HE CHEAPEST STARTS AT + 3UBASIO 6IA &RATE %LIA WWWHOTELSUBASIOCOM &ULL OF OLD WORLD STYLE THIS FOUR STAR IS !SSISIS TRADITIONAL HOTEL OF CHOICE IF YOURE FEELING mUSH PAST GUESTS INCLUDE -ARLENE $IETRICH #HARLIE #HAPLIN AND %LIZABETH 4AYLOR 3URPRISINGLY UNSTUFFY FOR ALL THAT THE ROOMS VARY CONSIDERABLY BUT MOST HAVE VIEWS 5MBRA 6ICOLO DEGLI !RCHI WWWHOTELUMBRAIT !N EXCEL LENT AND VERY POPULAR MID MARKET CHOICE WITH THREE STAR ROOMS ALMOST IMMEDIATELY OFF THE SOUTH ERN EDGE OF 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE
-ONASTERO 3AN #OLETTE "ORGO 3AN 0IETRO (ANDY FOR THE "ASILICA LOCATED JUST WEST OF THE CHURCH OF 3AN 0IETRO "REAKFAST INCLUDED BUT NO HALF BOARD OR FULL BOARD DEALS ROOMS lFTEEN EN SUITE -ONASTERO 3AN 'IUSEPPE 6IA 3ANT!POLLINARE ,OCATED IN THE SOUTHEAST COR NER OF TOWN JUST WEST OF 3ANTA -ARIA -AGGIORE &ULL BOARD OR HALF BOARD ONLY AT + OR + PER PERSON RESPECTIVELY ROOMS ALL WITH PRIVATE BATHROOM -ONASTERO 3ANTO 1UIRICO 6IA 'IOVANNI DI "ORINO (AS FOURTEEN ROOMS TWELVE OF WHICH HAVE PRIVATE BATHROOMS #LOSED AT TIME OF WRITING BUT DUE TO REOPEN 3UORE DELL!TONEMENT 6IA ' !LESSI !LL TWENTY ROOMS OFFERED BY THE !MERICAN NUNS HERE HAVE PRIVATE BATHROOMS "REAKFAST IS INCLUDED
0RIVATE ROOMS (OSTELS
#ASA DEL 4ERZARIO 0IAZZA DEL 6ESCOVADO ! DElNITE lRST CHOICE FOR LOCATION AND ROOMS THOUGH NOT ALL ROOMS HAVE PRIVATE BATHROOMS #LOSED .OVn-ARCH )STITUTO "EATA !NGELINA 6IA -ERRY DEL 6AL -OST OF THE SIXTEEN ROOMS HAVE PRIVATE BATHROOMS LOCATED VERY CLOSE TO THE "ASILICA -ONASTERO 3ANT!NDREA 6ICOLO 3ANT!NDREA ,OCATED IN A HARD TO lND BUT EXCELLENTLY SITUATED ALLEY JUST SOUTH OF 6IA 3AN 'IACOMO AND 0ORTA 3AN 'IACOMO 4AKE THE TURN UPHILL OFF 6IA 3AN &RANCESCO BY THE #ASA DEI -AESTRI #OMACINI (AS FORTY ROOMS HALF OF THEM EN SUITE
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0ILGRIM HOSTELS
!NNALISA -ARTINI 6IA 3AN 'REGORIO 3IX ROOMS THREE WITH BATHROOMS IN THE SECOND ALLEY ON THE LEFT OFF 6IA 0ORTICA AFTER LEAVING 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE + OR + WITH SHARED BATHROOM "ERNARDO 0AMPANINI 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI 4HREE DOUBLES IN ONE OF THE LESS MEDIEVAL CORNERS OF !SSISI BUT STILL CONVENIENT FOR ALL THE SIGHTS + #AMERE DI 3ANTA #HIARA 6IA 3ANT!NTONIO A &IVE DOUBLES EACH WITH BATHROOM IN A SUPERBLY SITUATED ALLEY JUST SOUTH OF 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE BY 3ANT!NTONIO AND THE #HIESA .UOVA + #RISTINA ,OMBARDI 6IA DEL #OMUNE 6ECCHIO &OUR SINGLES TWO BATHROOMS IN THE PRETTY STREET BETWEEN 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI AND 6IA 0ORTA 0ERLICI + )L $UOMO 6ICOLO 3AN ,ORENZO WWWHOTELSANRUlNOIT 4HE BEST PRIVATE LODGINGS IN TOWN LOCATED IN A TINY mOWER DECKED MEDIEVAL ALLEY WALK UP 6IA DI 0ORTA 0ERLICI FROM THE $UOMO AND 6ICOLO 3AN ,ORENZO IS SECOND ON THE LEFT + -ARCO 'AMBACORTA 6IA 3ERMEI 3IX DOUBLE ROOMS THREE BATHROOMS IN THE SMALL LANE IMMEDIATELY NORTH OF THE "ASILICA DI 3ANTA #HIARA OFF 6IA 3ANTA #HIARA + -ARIA !LUNNI 6IA DELL!CQUARIO #HARMING PROPRIETRESS FOUR SPOT LESS AIRY ROOMS AND LOTS OF GREENERY OR + WITH SHARED BATHROOM
!3 3 ) 3 ) !.$ 4 ( % 6! , % / & 3 0 / , % 4/ !CCOMMODATION
/STELLO DI &ONTEMAGGIO 3TRADA %REMO DELLE #ARCERI AT THE HAMLET OF &ONTEMAGGIO KM EAST OF THE TOWN OR WWWFONTEMAGGIOIT #LEAN TEN BED SINGLE SEX DORMS AT + PER PERSON OR A CHOICE OF lFTEEN ONE STAR HOTEL ROOMS /STELLO DELLA 0ACE 6IA DI 6ALECCHIE ,OCATED IN PEACEFUL COUNTRYSIDE OFF THE ROAD THAT LEADS EAST FROM 0ORTA 3AN 0IETRO AND 6IALE ' -ARCONI TEN MINUTES DOWNHILL WALK FROM 0IAZZA 5NITÌ D)TALIA ,OOK FOR THE SMALL ROAD WITH SIGN FOR HOSTEL OFF LEFT AT THE BIG RIGHT HAND BEND SHORTLY AFTER THE SMALL ROUNDABOUT JUNCTION WITH 6IALE 6ITTORIO %MANUELE )) #OMING FROM THE STATION BY BUS TRY TO BE DROPPED AT h6ILLA 'UARDIv THE HOSTEL IS SIGNPOSTED FROM HERE $ORM BEDS IN TOTAL IN TWELVE ROOMS AT + PLUS HALF AND FULL BOARD DEALS AT + AND +
#AMPSITES &ONTEMAGGIO 3TRADA %REMO DELLE #ARCERI ! PITCH TWO STAR SITE ALONGSIDE THE HOSTEL AT &ONTEMAGGIO AND
UNDER THE SAME MANAGEMENT /PEN ALL YEAR WITH FULL SERVICES AND ADJOINING SUPERMARKET )NTERNAZIONALE !SSISI 6IA 3AN 'IOVANNI IN #AMPI GLIONE WWWCAMPINGASSISI
IT .OT SUCH A PLEASANT SETTING BUT A THREE STAR RATING KM WEST OF !SSISI ON THE 33 TO "ASTIA !PRIL TO MID /CT
4HE "ASILICA DI 3AN &RANCESCO
!3 3 ) 3 ) !.$ 4 ( % 6! , % / & 3 0 / , % 4/
\ 4HE "ASILICA DI 3AN &RANCESCO
4HE "ASILICA DI 3AN &RANCESCO RANKS SECOND ONLY TO 3T 0ETERS IN 2OME AS A POINT OF WORLDWIDE #ATHOLIC PILGRIMAGE AND ITS CYCLE OF PAINTINGS BY 'IOTTO HAS LONG BEEN CONSIDERED ONE OF THE TURNING POINTS IN 7ESTERN ART MOVING FROM THE "YZANTINE WORLD OF ICONIC SAINTS AND -ADONNAS TO ONE OF HUMANIST NARRATIVE 4HE CONSTRUCTION OF THE "ASILICA IS IN TWO TIERS WITH THE 5PPER #HURCH PLACED ABOVE THE ,OWER #HURCH 4HIS POSED ENORMOUS ENGINEERING PROBLEMS WHICH WERE SOLVED BY THE USE OF MASSIVE ARCHED BUTTRESSING THAT EFFECTIVELY PROPPED UP THE WESTERN END OF THE TOWN /NE OF THE WONDERS OF EARLY MEDIEVAL ARCHITECTURE ITS CREATOR REMAINS UNKNOWN ALL THE ORIGINAL DRAWINGS WERE BURNT IN A RAID BY THE 0ERUGIANS -OST HISTORIANS PRESUME IT TO HAVE BEEN THE WORK OF ,OMBARD MASONS WHO WOULD HAVE DRAWN THEIR INSPIRATION FROM THE 'OTHIC CHURCHES OF SOUTHERN &RANCE !S ONE OF THE EARLIEST EXAMPLES OF )TALIAN 'OTHIC THE "ASILICA EXERTED GREAT ARCHITECTURAL INmUENCE ITS SINGLE NAVED 5PPER #HURCH BECOMING A MODEL FOR COUNTLESS &RANCISCAN CHURCHES AROUND THE COUNTRY !DMISSION TO BOTH PARTS OF THE "ASILICA IS FREE "OTH ARE USUALLY OPEN DAILY AMnPM WINTER CLOSES PM EXCEPT FROM .OVEMBER TO -ARCH WHEN BOTH MAY CLOSE FOR LUNCH NOONnPM 4HE 5PPER #HURCH MAY CLOSE OR HAVE RESTRICTED OPENING ON 3UNDAYS BOTH CLOSE ON HOLY DAYS 4HE ,OWER #HURCH IS USUALLY OPEN EARLIER THAN THE LISTED TIME IN THE MORNINGS THAT IS FROM AROUND nAM MAKING THIS A GOOD TIME TO VISIT )NDEED YOUD DO BEST TO ALWAYS VISIT EARLY OR LATE IN THE DAY THE CROWDS AT OTHER TIMES CAN MAKE IT HARD TO GET A VIEW OF THE FRESCOES ESPECIALLY IN THE ,OWER #HURCH )TS ALSO WORTH TAKING A COUPLE OF MINUTES TO WANDER THE CLOISTERS ENTERED FROM THE ,OWER #HURCH 4HE CUSTODIANS OF THE "ASILICA ENFORCE THEIR DRESS CODE EXTREMELY VIGOROUSLY YOU SHOULD ALWAYS COVER YOUR ARMS AND LEGS 4HEIR REPEATED EXHORTATIONS FOR EVERYBODY TO REMAIN SILENT SEEM SADLY TO FALL ON DEAF EARS
4HE HISTORY OF THE "ASILICA 4HE "ASILICA WAS CONCEIVED SHORTLY AFTER &RANCISS DEATH BY THE MAN WHO HAD TAKEN OVER THE RUNNING OF THE ORDER A DECADE OR SO EARLIER ONE %LIAS OF #ORTONA %LIAS ONE OF THE SAINTS EARLIEST DISCIPLES SERVED AS VICAR GENERAL OF THE &RANCISCANS THROUGH TO PRESIDING OVER A SERIES OF BITTER DISPUTES AND SCHISMS UNTIL BEING DEPOSED AND EXCOMMUNICATED )N THE EARLY YEARS OF THE POST &RANCIS ORDER HOWEVER HE RAN THINGS VERY MUCH HIS WAY CAPITALIZING ON THE SAINTS POPULAR APPEAL TO BUILD THE &RANCISCANS INTO A POWERFUL FORCE AND RAISING THE MONEY TO MAKE THE FOUNDERS "ASILICA ONE OF THE GREAT #HRISTIAN SHRINES 4O THE HORROR OF THE MORE ASCETIC AND ZEALOUS FOLLOWERS OF THE SAINT n TO WHOM &RANCIS HIMSELF WAS ALLIED IN HIS lNAL YEARS n %LIAS SET ABOUT A MASSIVE FUNDRAISING PROJECT SELLING RELIGIOUS INDULGENCES ACROSS %UROPE 4HE hFUNDAMENTALISTv WING ARGUED THAT THE INDULGENCES WERE A CORRUPTION AND THE "ASILICAS PROPOSED MAGNIlCENCE AT ODDS WITH &RANCISS MAXIM THAT hSMALL CHURCHES SHOULD BE BUILT FOR THEY OUGHT NOT TO RAISE GREAT CHURCHES FOR THE SAKE OF PREACHING TO THE PEOPLE OR FOR ANY OTHER REASON FOR THEY WILL SHOW GREATER HUMILITY AND GIVE A BETTER EXAMPLE BY GOING TO PREACH IN OTHER CHURCHESv 4HEY
4HE ,OWER #HURCH
4HE MAIN NAVE
4HE HIGHLIGHTS SPAN A CENTURY OF CONTINUOUS ARTISTIC DEVELOPMENT )MPORTANT BUT SOMEWHAT STILTED EARLY WORKS BY "YZANTINE INmUENCED ARTISTS LINE THE WALLS OF THE MAIN NAVE MANY CREDITED TO THE MYSTERIOUS -AESTRO DI 3AN &RANC ESCO THE ANONYMOUS HAND THAT CROPS UP ELSEWHERE IN 5MBRIA 4HESE ARE THE OLDEST FRESCOES IN THE "ASILICA THE 3CENES FROM THE 0ASSION RIGHT WALL AND %PISODES FROM THE ,IFE OF 3T &RANCIS LEFT WALL &ADED IN PLACES THEY HAVE ALSO BEEN PARTLY OBLITERATED BY THE SUBSEQUENT OPENING UP OF THE SIDE CHAPELS A NECESSITY FORCED ON THE &RANCISCANS BY THE NEED TO ACCOMMODATE THE GROWING NUMBER OF PILGRIMS VISITING !SSISI
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4HE SOMBRE ,OWER #HURCH IS THE PLACE TO BEGIN IF YOU WANT TO FOLLOW THE ARCHITECTURAL AND ARTISTIC CHRONOLOGY OF THE SHRINE )TS CONVOLUTED mOOR PLAN AND LOW LIT VAULTS ARE INTENDED TO CREATE A MOOD OF CALM AND MEDITATIVE INTROSPEC TION THE LOW LEVEL NATURAL LIGHT HAS BEEN AUGMENTED BY FAIRLY DISCREET SPOTLIGHT ING n A CONCESSION THAT HAS ALTERED THE ATMOSPHERE OF THE CHAPEL BUT ALSO MAKES IT POSSIBLE TO STUDY THE FRESCOES AND INTRICATE DECORATION THAT COVER EVERY SURFACE IN SUCH DENSITY THAT IT REALLY NEEDS SEVERAL VISITS TO TAKE IT ALL IN
!3 3 ) 3 ) !.$ 4 ( % 6! , % / & 3 0 / , % 4/ 4HE "ASILICA DI 3AN &RANCESCO
POINTED OUT TOO THAT &RANCISS CHOICE OF BURIAL SITE WAS INTENDED AS A GESTURE OF HUMILITY HE HAD PICKED ONE OF THE MOST DESPISED SPOTS OF MEDIEVAL !SSISI KNOWN AS THE #OLLE DEL )NFERNO WHERE CRIMINALS WERE TAKEN FOR EXECUTION )T WAS TO NO AVAIL 4HE BURIAL SITE WAS RECHRISTENED #OLLE DEL 0ARADISO AND A BUILD ING MORE AMBITIOUS THAN ANY IN )TALY WAS BEGUN 7HILE CONSTRUCTION OF THE "ASILICA PROCEEDED THE POLITICAL BACKGROUND BECAME INCREASINGLY MURKY THE STRANGEST TWIST COMING ON THE DAY OF &RANCISS CANONIZATION %LIAS BY THIS TIME HAD FALLEN OUT WITH THE PAPACY WHICH WAS ORGANIZING THE CEREMONY AND AS THE SAINTS HEARSE PROCEEDED THROUGH THE STREETS OF !SSISI HE AND A POSSE BURST ONTO THE SCENE AND SEIZED THE BODY )GNORING THE ANGER OF THE CROWD AND THE INDIGNATION OF THE PAPAL ENTOURAGE THEY HURRIED THE COFlN INTO THE ,OWER #HURCH AND BOLTED THE DOORS BEHIND THEM 0ROMPTED PERHAPS BY THE FEAR THAT HIS MASTERS REMAINS WOULD BE STOLEN OR DESECRATED MEDIEVAL RELICS HAD ENORMOUS lNANCIAL AND SPIRITUAL VALUE %LIAS HAD DECIDED TO BURY &RANCIS IN A SECRET TOMB DEEP WITHIN THE "ASILICA 4HE EPISODE GAVE RISE TO A MYTH RECYCLED BY 6ASARI THAT A VAST HIDDEN CHURCH HAD BEEN BUILT BELOW THE "ASILICA FAR GREATER IN BEAUTY AND GRANDEUR THAN THE CHURCHES ABOVE )NSIDE THIS SEALED CHAMBER IT WAS BELIEVED THE BODY OF THE hALMOST ALIVE SAINTv HOVERED ABOVE THE ALTAR AWAITING HIS CALL TO HEAVEN 4HE TOMB REMAINED UNDISCOVERED OR AT LEAST UNREACHED UNTIL A TWO MONTH SEARCH IN 4HE EARTHQUAKES COULD HAVE BEEN CATASTROPHIC FOR THE "ASILICA )N FACT DAMAGE WAS RELATIVELY MINOR THOUGH n IN A COUNTRY WHERE RESTORATION PROJECTS CAN BE MEASURED IN DECADES n A THIRD OF 5MBRIAS ENTIRE EMERGENCY BUD GET FOR THE REGIONS MONUMENTS WAS DEVOTED TO STATE OF THE ART PROTECTION FOR THE "ASILICA IN A SUCCESSFUL EFFORT TO HAVE IT REOPENED FOR THE YEAR CELEBRA TIONS 7HAT IS POIGNANT AND IRONIC IS THAT THE "ASILICAS BUILDERS WERE AWARE OF THE PROBLEMS POSED BY 5MBRIAS SEISMIC HISTORY AND HAD DESIGNED THE BUILDING WITH THE mEXIBILITY TO WITHSTAND TREMORS PART OF THE VAULTS IN THE 5PPER #HURCH COLLAPSED ONLY BECAUSE TONNES OF RUBBLE HAD ACCUMULATED IN THE HOLLOW CEIL ING SPACE OVER THE CENTURIES WHICH GENERATIONS OF RESTORERS HAD BEEN TOO LAZY TO CLEAR 4HE STRENGTHENED AND REVAMPED FOUNDATIONS WILL NOW WITHSTAND IT IS HOPED EARTHQUAKES OF ANYTHING UP TO A MOST UNLIKELY ON THE 2ICHTER SCALE
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$ONT OVERLOOK THE CHURCHS MINOR WORKS NOTABLY THE LITTLE -ADONNA %NTHRONED BY THE 'UBBIAN ARTIST /TTAVIANO .ELLI ON THE LEFT AS YOU ENTER JUST RIGHT OF THE #APPELLA DI 3AN 3EBASTIANO OR THE 4OMB OF #ARDINAL !LBORNOZ BUILT AS A TEMPORARY RESTING PLACE FOR THE 3PANISH lREBRAND RESPONSIBLE FOR REINFORC ING PAPAL POWER IN 5MBRIA (E REBUILT AND REGARRISONED THE CASTLES OF !SSISI .ARNI AND 3POLETO AMONG OTHERS AND WAS REWARDED FOR HIS PAINS WITH A TOMB IN THE "ASILICA HIS REMAINS WERE LATER REMOVED TO 4OLEDO HIS HOME TOWN 4HE TOMB REMARKABLY IS THE WORK OF -ATTEO DI 'ATTAPONE THE ARCHITECT RESPON SIBLE FOR 3POLETOS 0ONTE DELLE 4ORRI AND 'UBBIOS 0ALAZZO DEI #ONSOLI PROJECTS CONCEIVED ON A FAR VASTER SCALE 4HE #APPELLA DI 3AN -ARTINO
3IMONE -ARTINIS FRESCOES IN THE #APPELLA DI 3AN -ARTINO THE lRST CHAPEL ON THE LEFT AS YOU ENTER THE NAVE NO ON THE PLAN ARE AMONG THE ,OWER #HURCHS HIGHLIGHTS (E WORKED HERE IN THE MID S SHORTLY AFTER PAINTING THE GREAT -AESTÌ IN 3IENA AND WAS GIVEN COMPLETELY FREE REIN EVERY DETAIL EVEN
THE mOOR AND STAINED GLASS CAME UNDER HIS CONTROL 4HE PANELS ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE ARCH AS YOU ENTER THE CHAPEL WERE PROBABLY PAINTED IN 4HEY SHOW EIGHT SAINTS AND WERE PAINTED TO HONOUR 3T ,OUIS OF 4OULOUSE WHO HAD JUST BEEN SANCTIlED HE IS THE RED ROBED lGURE IN THE UPPER LEFT PANEL mANKED BY SAINTS &RANCIS !NTHONY AND #LARE )N THE INTERIOR CHAPEL A FAR MORE DISTINCT AND INSULAR SPACE THAN MUCH OF THE ,OWER #HURCH IS A COMPLETE FRESCO CYCLE OF THE LIFE OF 3T -ARTIN OF 4OURS 4HE FATHER OF MONASTICISM IN &RANCE -ARTIN WAS VENERATED AS FAR AlELD AS )RELAND AND !FRICA HERE HOWEVER HE IS FEATURED PARTLY AS A SOP TO THE &RANCISCAN FRIAR WHO COMMISSIONED THE CHAPEL THE FRIAR HAD BEEN MADE CARDINAL WITH THE TITLE OF 3AN -ARTINO AI -ONTI 4HE TEN PANEL CYCLE STARTS ON THE LEFT HAND WALL AND MOVES CLOCKWISE AROUND THE CHAPEL THE LOWEST FOUR PANELS REPRESENTING SCENES FROM THE SECULAR PART OF -ARTINS LIFE UP TO AND INCLUDING HIS CONVERSION THE REMAINING FOUR WALL FRESCOES AND TWO PAINTED CEILING VAULTS TREATING THE PERIOD AFTER HIS CONVERSION -ARTIN WAS BORN IN IN WHAT IS NOW (UNGARY AND BROUGHT UP IN )TALY AT 0AVIA 4HE KEY EVENT OF HIS CONVERSION n AND THE lRST DEPICTED IN THE CYCLE n CAME AS A YOUNG OFlCER AT !MIENS WHEN HE GAVE HALF HIS CLOAK TO A BEGGAR A lGURE HE WAS LATER LED TO RECOGNIZE AS #HRIST 4O THE RIGHT IS THE $REAM OF 3T -ARTIN IN WHICH
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!3 3 ) 3 ) !.$ 4 ( % 6! , % / & 3 0 / , % 4/ 4HE "ASILICA DI 3AN &RANCESCO
5 &RANCISCAN MONKS IN THE LOWER COURTYARD OF 3AN &RANCESCO
!3 3 ) 3 ) !.$ 4 ( % 6! , % / & 3 0 / , % 4/
\ 4HE "ASILICA DI 3AN &RANCESCO
#HRIST AND ANGELS APPEAR TO THE SAINT A PANEL THAT MINGLES SECULAR AND SACRED ICO NOGRAPHY AMID A PANOPLY OF COURTLY EMBLEMS 4HIS TRAIT IS CONTINUED IN THE NEXT PANEL ON THE RIGHT HAND WALL 3T -ARTIN IS +NIGHTED AN OUT AND OUT EVOCATION OF LIFE AT COURT WITHOUT RELIGIOUS ICONOGRAPHY OF ANY KIND 4O ITS RIGHT IS 3T -ARTIN 2ENOUNCES HIS 7EAPONS h) AM #HRISTS SOLDIER ) AM NOT ALLOWED TO lGHTv (ERE TOO -ARTINI SEEMS TO RESERVE HIS lNEST PAINTING FOR THE BACKGROUND n THE TENTS SPEARS LANCES AND COSTUMES OF THE 2OMAN CAMP AND %MPEROR *ULIAN 4HE NARRATIVE MOVES TO THE SECOND TIER BACK ON THE LEFT HAND WALL STARTING WITH THE -IRACLE OF THE 2ESURRECTED #HILD ANOTHER EPISODE NEVER BEFORE DEPICTED IN )TALIAN ART IN WHICH -ARTIN TRANSPORTED PRESUMABLY BY ARTISTIC LICENCE TO 3IENA THE CITYS 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO IS IN THE BACKGROUND RAISES A CHILD FROM THE DEAD BEFORE ITS MOTHER AND AN EXPECTANT CROWD !LONGSIDE IS THE -EDITA TION WITH THE SAINT MOVED TO DISTRACTION BY CONTEMPLATION OF THE $IVINE AND UNMOVED BY THE ACOLYTES TRYING TO DIRECT HIS ATTENTION TO THE -ASS 2OUND TO ITS RIGHT IS THE -IRACULOUS -ASS AN UNUSUAL SUBJECT PORTRAYED HERE FOR THE lRST TIME -ARTIN HAS AGAIN GIVEN A CLOAK TO A BEGGAR AND IS ABOUT TO CELEBRATE -ASS WHEN ANGELS APPEAR TO PRESENT HIM WITH A BEAUTIFULLY EMBROIDERED PIECE OF MATERIAL 4HE NEXT FRESCO THE -IRACLE OF &IRE IS DAMAGED THOUGH THE SENSE OF THE SCENE IS CLEAR A TONGUE OF mAME IS FORCED DOWN THE THROAT OF %MPEROR 6ALENTINIAN FOR REFUSING TO GIVE -ARTIN AN AUDIENCE 4HE UPPERMOST LEVEL DEPICTS TWO SELF EXPLANATORY SCENES THE SAINTS DEATH AND BURIAL BOTH DISTINGUISHED BY THE EXQUISITE DETAIL OF THE SAINTS ROBES AND BY THE ARCHITECTURAL DETAILS THAT CORRESPOND TO THE MOODS OF THE EPISODES n SEVERE BARE WALLED AND GEOMETRICAL AROUND THE SCENE OF DEATH AND MORE ORNATE IN THE 'OTHIC CHAPEL THAT HOSTS THE FUNERAL 4HE RIGHT TRANSEPT
#ENNO DI 0EPO POPULARLY KNOWN AS #IMABUE Cn WAS THE lRST GREAT NAMED ARTIST TO WORK ON THE "ASILICA 6ASARIS ,IVES OF THE !RTISTS OPENS WITH AN ACCOUNT OF HIM IN WHICH HE IS DESCRIBED AS THE FATHER OF )TALIAN PAINTING AND AN OBSESSIVE PERFECTIONIST OFTEN DESTROYING WORK WITH WHICH HE WAS NOT COMPLETELY HAPPY (E PROBABLY PAINTED IN THE TRANSEPTS OF THE 5PPER #HURCH BETWEEN AND AND WAS ACTIVE IN THE ,OWER #HURCH SOME TIME LATER (IS MAJOR PAINTING IN THE ,OWER #HURCH n WHERE MUCH OF HIS WORK WAS LATER OVERPAINTED n IS IN THE RIGHT TRANSEPT RIGHT WALL THE OVER RESTORED -ADONNA #HILD AND !NGELS WITH 3T &RANCIS A WORK THAT SURVIVES FROM THE CHURCHS EARLIER DECORATIVE SCHEME 2USKIN DESCRIBED THIS PAINTING AS THE NOBLEST DEPIC TION OF THE 6IRGIN IN #HRISTENDOM )T INCLUDES THE FAMOUS PORTRAIT OF 3T &RANCIS WHICH YOULL ALREADY HAVE SEEN PLASTERED ALL OVER THE TOWN .EXT TO IT THE #RUCIlXION HAS BEEN ATTRIBUTED TO 'IOTTO AS HAVE n THOUGH WITH LESS CERTAINTY n THE SCENES ON THE END WALL AND VAULTS DEPICTING THE #HILDHOOD OF #HRIST 4O THE LEFT ARE A HALF LENGTH -ADONNA AND #HILD AND PAIR OF SAINTS WHILE ON THE SIDE WALL IS A SET OF lVE SAINTS ALL THE WORK OF 3IMONE -ARTINI /NE OF THE lGURES n ANOTHER IMAGE MUCH DUPLICATED AROUND TOWN n IS BELIEVED TO BE 3T #LARE FOUNDER OF THE WOMENS CHAPTER OF THE &RANCISCANS SEE P 4HE PAINTING SHOWS A CLEAR ATTEMPT AT THE DEPICTION OF EMOTION THE USE OF LIGHT AND SHADE TO ADD VERISIMILITUDE TO lGURES AND THE CREATION OF A COHERENT THREE DIMENSIONAL SENSE OF SPACE n ALL STEPS ON THE PATH TRODDEN WITH EQUAL CERTAINTY BY 'IOTTO AND -ARTINIS 3IENESE CONTEMPORARY 0IETRO ,ORENZETTI 4HE VAULTS OVER THE ALTAR
4HE QUESTION OF 'IOTTOS INVOLVEMENT IN THE "ASILICA HAS BEEN AT THE CENTRE OF ONE OF )TALYS GREATEST ART HISTORY CONTROVERSIES #ERTAIN TWENTIETH CENTURY
HISTORIANS OPINED THAT 'IOTTO HAD NEVER PAINTED IN !SSISI AT ALL 3OME STILL HOLD THIS VIEW THOUGH THE MODERN CONSENSUS IS THAT 'IOTTO WAS INDEED RESPONSIBLE FOR THE BULK OF THE PAINTINGS IN THE 5PPER #HURCH EXECUTED FROM ABOUT !UTHORSHIP IN THE ,OWER #HURCH IS MORE DUBIOUS AND CREDIT FOR THE ALLEGORICAL FRESCOES IN THE VAULTS OVER THE ALTAR n SOME OF THE CHURCHS MOST BEAUTIFUL AND COMPLEX n HAS BEEN TAKEN FROM 'IOTTO AND GIVEN TO NAMELESS ASSISTANTS 4HE SAME GOES FOR THE ,IFE OF -ARY -AGDALENE CYCLE C IN THE #APPELLA DELLA -ADDALENA THE THIRD CHAPEL ON THE RIGHT AS WELL AS THE RIGHT TRANSEPTS #HILDHOOD OF #HRIST SEE ABOVE )N THE HOTHOUSE ATMOSPHERE OF THE "ASILICA DUR ING ITS DECORATION HOWEVER CO OPERATIVE EFFORTS MUST HAVE BEEN COMMONPLACE DElNITIVE ATTRIBUTIONS ARE ALL BUT IMPOSSIBLE 4HE LEFT TRANSEPT
"EFORE LEAVING THE ,OWER #HURCH DROP DOWN TO THE CRYPT AND THE TOMB OF 3T &RANCIS A SPOT THAT REMAINED HIDDEN UNTIL 4HE PRESENT TOMB REBUILT IN THE S HONOURS &RANCISS DESIRE FOR A HUMBLE BURIAL REPLACING A MORE ELABORATE TABERNACLE RAISED IN THE EXCITEMENT OF DISCOVERY !BOVE THE MAIN ALTAR IS THE SIMPLE STONE COFlN THAT CONTAINS THE BODY AT THE FOUR CORNERS OF THE CENTRAL CANOPY ARE THE BODIES OF &RANCISS EARLIEST KEY COMPANIONS THE BEATIlC ,EONE 2UlNO -ASSEO AND !NGELO
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4HE TOMB OF 3T &RANCIS
!3 3 ) 3 ) !.$ 4 ( % 6! , % / & 3 0 / , % 4/ 4HE "ASILICA DI 3AN &RANCESCO
0IETRO ,ORENZETTI IS REPRESENTED BY A BEAUTIFUL SERIES OF WORKS IN THE LEFT TRANSEPT 2ECENT CRITICISM SEES THE 3IX 3CENES OF THE 0ASSION ON THE CEILING OF THE LEFT HAND TRANSEPT AS HIS EARLIEST SURVIVING WORKS PROBABLY PAINTED ON A VISIT TO !SSISI IN ABOUT 2ESTRAINED STATIC PIECES THEY BETRAY THE INmUENCE OF $UCCIO AN IMPULSE SHRUGGED OFF WHEN THE ARTIST RETURNED TO THE "ASILICA IN THE YEARS n AND n "Y THIS TIME HE HAD ABSORBED THE LESSONS OF 'IOTTO BRINGING THEM TO BEAR ON THE 0ASSION OF #HRIST IN THE LEFT TRANSEPT A CYCLE HE HAD PROBABLY STARTED ON HIS VISIT TEN YEARS EARLIER 4HE FRESCOES PORTRAYING SCENES LEADING UP TO #HRISTS CRUCIlXION ARE COM PARATIVELY WEAK 4HE ,AST 3UPPER HOWEVER IN WHICH #HRIST AND THE APOSTLES ARE CROWDED INTO A CURIOUS HEXAGONAL LOGGIA REVEALS A TREATMENT OF LIGHT AND SHADOW HARDLY MATCHED DURING THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY 4HE MOON AND STARS LIGHT THE SKY WHILE TO THE LEFT IS A KITCHEN ILLUMINATED BY LIGHT FROM A lRE IN WHICH SERVANTS UNCONCERNEDLY SCRAPE FOOD INTO A DOGS BOWL n A lNE INCIDENTAL DETAIL PARALLELED BY THE TWO CHATTERING SERVANTS TO THE LEFT OF #HRIST WHO ARE QUITE OBLIVIOUS TO EVENTS BEFORE THEM 4HE ONLY ILLUMINATION AT THE TABLE IS FROM THE HALOES OF #HRIST AND THE APOSTLES A DELIBERATE JUXTAPOSITION OF MATERIAL AND SPIRITUAL LIGHT 4HREE OTHER PANELS STAND OUT IN THE CYCLE THE %NTOMBMENT #RUCIlXION AND $EPOSITION $OMINATING ALMOST AN ENTIRE WALL THE #RUCIlXION SHOWS AN AMAZING SENSE OF DRAMA WITH #HRIST RAISED HIGH ABOVE A CROWD OF ONLOOKERS AND CLOSER STUDY REVEALS CAREFULLY OBSERVED NUANCES OF CHARACTER IN THE CROWD 4HESE NATURAL TOUCHES RECUR IN THE FACES OF THE $EPOSITION LESS IMMEDIATELY STRIKING BUT STILL AMONGST ,ORENZETTIS MASTERPIECES FOR ITS BOLD AND SIMPLE COMPOSITION 4HE UPPER PORTION OF THE #ROSS IS COMPLETELY MISSING LEAVING JUST THE BROAD HORI ZONTAL AND HUGE AMOUNTS OF VACANT SPACE ALL FOCUSING ON THE lGURE OF #HRIST HIS LIMBS BENT WITH RIGOR MORTIS ,ORENZETTI ALSO PAINTED IN THE CHAPEL BEYOND THE #APPELLA DI 3AN 'IOVANNI "ATTISTA NO ON THE PLAN WHERE HE LEFT THE FRESCOED TRIPTYCH OF THE -ADON NA AND #HILD WITH 33 &RANCIS AND *OHN THE "APTIST 4HE CENTRAL PANEL OF STAINED GLASS HERE IS ATTRIBUTED TO *ACOPO 4ORRITI ONE OF THE LARGELY UNSUNG BUT IMPORTANT 2OMAN ARTISTS TO HAVE FRESCOED PARTS OF THE 5PPER #HURCH
4HERES A SHORT ACCOUNT OF THE TOMBS FASCINATING HISTORY AND DISCOVERY IN %NGLISH TACKED TO THE BARE STONE WALLS 4HE -USEO DEL 4ESORO
4HE WELL PRESENTED -USEO DEL 4ESORO E #OLLEZIONI &- 0ERKINS !PRILn/CT -ONn3AT AMnPM DONATION EXPECTED IS ENTERED FROM DOORS IN THE TRANSEPT BEHIND THE MAIN ALTAR )T CONTAINS A RICH COLLECTION OF PAINTINGS INCLUDING MASTERPIECES FROM THE &REDERICK -ASON 0ERKINS #OLLECTION A BEQUEST FROM AN !MERICAN PHILANTHROPIST WHICH INCLUDES WORK BY &RA !NGELICO 0IER &RANCESCO &IORENTINO ,UCA 3IGNORELLI AND -ASOLINO )TS ALSO PARTICULARLY STRONG ON THE 3IEN ESE WITH PAINTINGS BY 0IETRO ,ORENZETTI 3EGNO DI "ONAVENTURA "ARTOLO DI &REDI AND 4ADDEO DI "ARTOLO 4HE MUSEUMS OWN ORIGINAL COLLECTION CONTAINS WORKS BY "ENOZZO 'OZZOLI AND LITTLE KNOWN 5MBRIANS LIKE ,O 3PAGNA "ONlGLI AND $ONO $ONI 4HE REMAINDER OF THE GALLERY IS CRAMMED WITH COPES VESTMENTS SILVERWARE RELIQUARIES AND THE LIKE GIVEN TO THE &RANCISCANS OVER THE CENTURIES 0RIDE OF PLACE GOES TO A TAPESTRY OF 3T &RANCIS AND AN ALTAR FRONT BOTH PRESENTED BY 0OPE 3IXTUS )6 THE LATTER WITH lGURES BY !NTONIO DEL 0OLLAIUOLO TOGETHER WITH A SERIES OF THIRTEENTH CENTURY 4USCAN AND 5MBRIAN CRUCIlXES
4HE 5PPER #HURCH !3 3 ) 3 ) !.$ 4 ( % 6! , % / & 3 0 / , % 4/
\ 4HE "ASILICA DI 3AN &RANCESCO
4HE 5PPER #HURCH IS A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT ARCHITECTURAL AESTHETIC AND EMO TIONAL EXPERIENCE ITS AIRY 'OTHIC PLAN INTENDED TO INSPIRE CELEBRATION RATHER THAN CONTEMPLATION )T FEELS LESS A CHURCH THAN A GALLERY FOR 'IOTTOS DAZZLING ,IFE OF 3T &RANCIS FRESCOES RIGHTLY REGARDED n NOTWITHSTANDING THE ODD DOUBT AS TO ITS ATTRIBUTION n AS ONE OF THE GREATEST OF ALL )TALIAN FRESCO CYCLES &EW SIGNS OF EARTHQUAKE DAMAGE REMAIN SAVE A COUPLE OF COMPLETELY BARE VAULTS STRIKING MEMORIALS TO THE EVENTS OF AMID THE COLOUR ON ALL SIDES 'IOTTOS ,IFE OF 3T &RANCIS
'IOTTOS ,IFE OF 3T &RANCIS CYCLE STARTS FROM THE FAR RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THE NAVE !LTHOUGH CRITICS HAVENT REACHED A CONSENSUS ON THE DATE OF THE FRESCOES MOST BELIEVE THEY ARE EARLY WORKS PAINTED WITH ASSISTANTS SOME TIME AROUND WHEN 'IOTTO WAS 4HE STYLE AND PERIPHERAL NARRATIVE CONTENT OF THE LAST FOUR FRESCOES HAS LED TO THEIR BEING ATTRIBUTED TO THE SO CALLED -AESTRO DI 3ANTA #ECILIA WHO MAY ALSO HAVE OVERPAINTED PARTS OF THE lRST PANEL 'IOTTO WAS BY FAR THE MOST IMPORTANT ARTIST TO WORK IN THE "ASILICA $ANTE IMMEDIATELY RECOGNIZED HIS SUPREMACY AND IN A FAMOUS PASSAGE INTENDED TO ILLUSTRATE THE HOLLOWNESS OF EARTHLY GLORY WROTE h#IMABUE THOUGHT TO LORD IT OVER PAINTINGS lELD !ND NOW HIS FAME IS OBSCURED AND THE CRY IS 'IOTTOv )T SEEMS THAT 'IOTTO GOT THE COMMISSION ON THE PROMPTING OF #IMABUE AND THAT SOME TEST PIECES IN THE ,OWER #HURCH PERSUADED THE FRIARS THAT 'IOTTO WAS EQUAL TO THE TASK OF DECORATING THE UPPER PART OF THE "ASILICA ,IKE MANY WRITERS AND ARTISTS OF THE AGE 'IOTTO WAS A MEMBER OF THE LAY &RANCISCAN 4ERTIARIES (IS FRESCOES REVEAL A PROFOUND SYMPATHY FOR THE SPIRIT OF 3T &RANCIS AND SHOW AN ALMOST TOTAL REJECTION OF THE ARTISTIC LANGUAGE OF THE "YZANTINES WHOSE REMOTE ICONS WERE HIGHLY INAPPROPRIATE FOR &RANCISS VERY HUMAN MESSAGE 4HE CYCLES ARE FULL OF THE NATURAL BEAUTY THAT MOVED THE SAINT TO PROFOUND JOY AND THE lGURES ARE MOBILE AND EXPRESSIVE n ASPECTS OF 'IOTTOS ART TYPIlED BY THE FAMOUS PANEL 4HE 3ERMON TO THE "IRDS NO ON OUR PLAN -ORE THAN ANY OTHER THIS FRESCO CRYSTALLIZES THE ESSENCE OF &RANCISCAN HUMILITY WITH THE mOCK ADDRESSED AS AN INDIVISIBLE PART OF 'ODS CREATION AND ATTENDING TO THE SAINT AS DISTINCT FROM THEM SOLELY BY VIRTUE OF THE POWER OF SPEECH
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-ONTE 3UBASIO NOW VANISHED 4HIS ATTENTION TO THE TONE AND SUBSTANCE OF THE REAL WORLD TO ITS TEXTURES AND SOLIDITY MAKES THE ART OF 'IOTTO AS REVOLUTIONARY AS &RANCISS MESSAGE TO THE MEDIEVAL #HURCH 4HE CHOIR AND THE OTHER FRESCOES
!3 3 ) 3 ) !.$ 4 ( % 6! , % / & 3 0 / , % 4/
\ 4O THE 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE
4HE CHOIR IS A SECOND FOCAL POINT )TS INLAID STALLS n COMPLETED IN THE lFTEENTH CENTURY n ARE OF IMMENSE INTRICACY AND DELICACY MOST OF THEM DEPICTING FAMOUS &RANCISCANS OR EPISODES FROM THEIR LIVES 4HE CENTRAL THRONE IS A PAPAL SEAT THE ONLY ONE IN THE COUNTRY OUTSIDE 3T 0ETERS IN 2OME "EHIND THE THRONE AND IN THE LEFT TRANSEPT ARE FRESCOES BY 'IOTTOS PROBABLE MASTER #IMABUE 4HESE SUFFERED DURING THE CEILING COLLAPSE BUT WERE ALREADY ALMOST RUINED FROM THE OXIDATION OF BADLY CHOSEN PIGMENTS THOUGH THE TRANSEPTS #RUCIlXION REMAINS AN IMPRESSIVE COMPOSITION ITS DYNAMISM AN OBVIOUS DEPARTURE FROM STATIC "YZANTINE ORDER 'IOTTO AND $UCCIO MAY HAVE HELPED ON THE PAINTING AS PUPILS 2UNNING AROUND THE CHURCH IMMEDIATELY ABOVE 'IOTTOS &RANCISCAN PANELS IS ANOTHER MUCH DAMAGED THOUGH VIRTUALLY COMPLETE CYCLE 3CENES FROM THE /LD AND .EW 4ESTAMENTS 6ASARI BELIEVED THESE SCENES WERE BY #IMABUE THOUGH TODAY THEY ARE ATTRIBUTED TO ARTISTS OF THE 2OMAN SCHOOL n 4ORRITI 2USUTI AND 0IETRO #AVALLINI n WHO WERE WORKING IN THE CHURCH AROUND THE SAME TIME "EFORE COMING TO !SSISI ALL THREE HAD WORKED PRIMARILY IN MOSAIC A TRADITIONAL "YZAN TINE MEDIUM BUT IN THE "ASILICA THEY TURNED TO FRESCO MOVING LIKE #IMABUE WITH CAUTIOUS INNOVATION TOWARDS A FREER INTERPRETATION OF OLD THEMES 4HE &OUR $OCTORS OF THE #HURCH IN THE VAULTS SAINTS *EROME !MBROSE 'REGORY AND !UGUSTINE ESPECIALLY SHOWS A NARRATIVE SENSE ABSENT IN EARLIER ART CLOAKS ARE LEFT THROWN OVER CHAIRS BOOKS LIE OPEN AS IF HALF READ 4HE $OCTORS MOREOVER ARE DEPICTED AS CHARACTERS IN THEIR OWN RIGHT DISTINCT INDIVIDUALS RATHER THAN THE SYMBOLIC REPRESENTATIVES OF ARTISTIC CONVENTION 4HE EARTHQUAKE DISLODGED THE 3T *EROME FRESCO WHICH IS CURRENTLY BEING PIECED BACK TOGETHER
4O THE 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE %AST FROM THE "ASILICA 6IA 3AN &RANCESCO HEADS OFF ALONG THE RIDGE OF MEDI EVAL !SSISI TOWARDS THE 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE 4O EACH SIDE STEEP AND OFTEN STEPPED ALLEYWAYS LEAD DOWN TO CITY GATES AND PERIPHERAL CHURCHES OF WHICH 3AN 0IETRO MOST REWARDS THE DIVERSION 4HE LANES NORTH OF 6IA 3AN &RANCESCO n IN PARTICULAR 6IA -ETASTASIO n ARE PEACEFUL AND ATTRACTIVE SECRETED AWAY IN THEM IS A MEDLEY OF LITTLE CHURCHES n 3ANTA -ARGHERITA 3ANT!NDREA 3ANTA #ROCE NONE IS ANY GREAT SHAKES ARTISTICALLY BUT ALL MAKE PRETTY DIVERSIONS 4AKE THIS ROUTE HOWEVER AND YOU WILL MISS THE 0INACOTECA #OMUNALE ART GALLERY WHICH MIGHT SEEM SMALL BEER AFTER THE "ASILICA BUT CONTAINS SEVERAL INTERESTING FRESCOES AND ONE OR TWO PAINTINGS THAT WOULD GRACE ANY GALLERY 3AN 0IETRO
7ONDERFULLY RESTORED TO ITS 2OMANESQUE 'OTHIC STATE 3AN 0IETRO IS A PEACEFUL ANTIDOTE TO THE CROWDS OF THE "ASILICA ABOVE IT 'RASS AND BENCHES OUTSIDE OFFER VIEWS OVER THE 6ALE OF 3POLETO AND OF THE lNE TWO TIERED FACADE n PINK BELOW CREAMY WHITE ABOVE n WITH ITS THREE HUGE ROSE WINDOWS /RIGINALLY "ENEDIC TINE THE CHURCH DATES FROM THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY THOUGH IT MAY HAVE BEEN FOUNDED AS LONG AGO AS THE SECOND CENTURY 4HE BARE INTERIOR MAINLY 2OMAN ESQUE ALSO SHOWS THE lRST HINTS OF 'OTHIC IN ITS GENTLY POINTED ARCHES AND IN THE CEILING SUPPORTED BY STRANGE CURVED VAULTING
4HE /RATORIO DEI 0ELLEGRINI
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0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE
0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE WAS BUILT OVER EITHER THE SITE OF THE 2OMAN FORUM OR AN IMPORTANT SACRED AREA n THEORIES DIFFER )TS A STUNNING MEDIEVAL SQUARE LINED WITH PLENTY OF PRICEY BARS FROM WHICH TO PEOPLE WATCH 4HE TOURIST OFlCE SEE P IS HERE PART OF THE IMPRESSIVE .EO 'OTHIC FORMER POST OFlCE A FRESCOED MOCK MEDIEVAL HALL COMPLETE WITH VAULTED CEILINGS 4HE PIAZZA IS DOMINATED BY THE 4EMPIO DI -INERVA -ONn3AT AMn NOON nPM 3UN AMnNOON nPM FREE SIX #ORINTHIAN COLUMNS AND A PEDIMENT FROM A lRST CENTURY 2OMAN TEMPLE n PERFECTLY PRESERVED AND
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!LMOST OPPOSITE THE /RATORIO DEI 0ELLEGRINI IN THE 0ALAZZO 6ALLEMANI IS THE EXCELLENT 0INACOTECA #OMUNALE DAILY *UNEn!UG AMnPM nPM -ARCHn-AY 3EPT /CT AMnPM nPM .OVn&EB AMnPM nPM + INCLUDING ADMISSION TO THE &ORO 2OMANO JOINT TICKET WITH &ORO 2OMANO AND 2OCCA -AGGIORE + n WELL WORTH THE ADMISSION NOT LEAST FOR THE WONDERFUL PAINTINGS MOVED HERE ON A SEMI PERMANENT BASIS FROM EARTHQUAKE RAVAGED .OCERA 5MBRA INCLUDING THE IMPRESSIVE )MMACULATE #ON CEPTION OF THE 6IRGIN n BY -ATTEO DA 'UALDO 4HIS IS COMPLEMENTED BY MANY DETACHED FRESCOES RESCUED FROM CHURCHES AND OTHER BUILDINGS AROUND !SSISI AMONG THEM IMPORTANT WORKS BY THE 'UBBIAN ARTIST /TTAVIANO .ELLI ,OOK OUT FOR THE WONDERFULLY STRANGE FRESCO BY AN UNKNOWN FOURTEENTH CEN TURY 5MBRIAN PAINTER OF 3AN 'IULIANO MISTAKENLY KILLING HIS PARENTS HAVING RETURNED HOME AND MISTAKEN THEM FOR HIS WIFE AND HER LOVER n THE ARTIST CLEARLY ENJOYED PAINTING THE QUITE UNNECESSARILY GRAPHIC AND GAPING WOUNDS !LL THE DISPLAYS ARE HELPED BY GOOD %NGLISH COMMENTARIES AND MORE WORKS OF ART ARE DUE TO BE MOVED TO RESTORED MEDIEVAL ROOMS ON OTHER mOORS
!3 3 ) 3 ) !.$ 4 ( % 6! , % / & 3 0 / , % 4/ 4O THE 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE
!T 6IA 3AN &RANCESCO THE /RATORIO DEI 0ELLEGRINI DAILY AMnNOON nPM FREE IS AN EXQUISITE lFTEENTH CENTURY BUILDING THAT SERVED AS PART OF A HOSPICE FOR VISITING PILGRIMS 4HE INTERIOR IS COVERED IN FETCHING FRESCOES SOME BY THE LOCAL SIXTEENTH CENTURY ARTIST -ATTEO DA 'UALDO BEGINNING WITH A FADED SAMPLE OUTSIDE UNDER THE WOODEN EAVED EXTERIOR )NSIDE HE WAS RESPONSIBLE FOR THE MURALS ON THE ALTAR WALL THE VAULT AND SIDE WALLS BEING THE WORK OF ANOTHER LOCAL ARTIST 0IERANTONIO -EZZASTRIS 0AINTED IN THE PICTURES ILLUSTRATE 3CENES FROM THE ,IFE OF 3T *AMES INCLUDING THE COMICAL -IRACLE OF THE 4WO (ENS AN EPISODE IN WHICH THE SAINT RESTORED TWO DEAD CHICKENS TO LIFE SO THEY COULD TESTIFY TO THE INNOCENCE OF A FALSELY ACCUSED PILGRIM !NOTHER SHOWS THE -IRACLE OF THE (ANGED -AN IN WHICH THE SAINT SUPPORTS AN APPARENTLY DEAD MAN UNTIL HE IS FOUND ALIVE BY HIS PARENTS 4WO SCENES ON THE LEFT WALL REPRESENT EPISODES FROM THE LIFE OF 3T !NTHONY !BBOT DISTRIBUTING ALMS AND RECEIVING CAMELS WHICH HAVE BROUGHT HIM AND HIS FELLOW MONKS FOOD THE 4HREE 3AINTS ON THE INNER FACE ARE ATTRIBUTED TO 0ERUGINO OR ,)NGEGNO ONE OF HIS FOLLOWERS )F PEOPLE ARE AT PRAYER HERE n AND THEY OFTEN ARE n YOU MAY HAVE TO CONTENT YOURSELF WITH A GLIMPSE OF THE PAINT INGS THROUGH THE GLASS DOOR #LOSE BY AT NO IS !SSISIS lNEST MEDIEVAL TOWN HOUSE THE HEADQUARTERS OF THE MASONS GUILD KNOWN AS THE #ASA DEI -AESTRI #OMACINI A DISPRO PORTIONATE NUMBER OF THE "ASILICAS BUILDERS HAILED FROM #OMO ! SHORT WAY BEYOND THE HOSPICE ON THE RIGHT IS THE ARCHED PORTICO OF -ONTE &RUMENTARIO A THIRTEENTH CENTURY HOSPITAL n ONE OF THE lRST IN )TALY )T ADJOINS THE &ONTANO DI #ORLETTA WHOSE INSCRIPTION WARNS THAT THE PENALTY FOR WASHING YOUR SMALLS IN THE WATER WAS ONE SCUDO AND THE SURRENDER OF YOUR LAUNDRY
!3 3 ) 3 ) !.$ 4 ( % 6! , % / & 3 0 / , % 4/
\ 4HE $UOMO 3ANTA #HIARA THE 2OCCA
DAZZLINGLY RESTORED )TS AS GOOD AS ANY CLASSICAL MONUMENT IN )TALY AND WAS THE ONLY THING 'OETHE WANTED TO SEE IN !SSISI 4HE WRITER WAS MOVED TO HYPERBOLE ON SEEING IT n hTHE lRST COMPLETE CLASSICAL MONUMENT ) HAVE SEENx SO PERFECT IN DESIGNx ) CANNOT DESCRIBE THE SENSATIONS WHICH THIS WORK AROUSED IN ME BUT ) KNOW THEY ARE GOING TO BEAR FRUIT FOR EVERv (E DIDNT BOTHER WITH THE "ASILICA CALLING IT A h"ABYLONIAN PILEv 7HILE THE TEMPLE IS GREAT FROM THE OUTSIDE THE CHURCH BEHIND IS A SEVENTEENTH CENTURY CONVERSION WHOSE SLIGHT LACK OF INTER EST HAS BEEN REDEEMED BY A lNE RECENT RESTORATION OF ITS "AROQUE INTERIOR 4HE RESTORATION UNCOVERED PARTS OF THE ORIGINAL PAVEMENT AND MASSIVE WALL AND TER RACING TO THE REAR /UTSIDE THE TEMPLE FRIEZE CONTAINS REFERENCE TO TWO BROTHERS 'NEO #ESIO 4IRONE AND 4ITO #ESIO 0RISCO WHO HELPED lNANCE THE TEMPLE )T HAD A CHE QUERED HISTORY NOT LEAST IN THE EARLY -IDDLE !GES WHEN IT WAS IN SUCH A PARLOUS STATE THAT IS WAS DESCRIBED IN RECORDS AS A CASOLINO n A LITTLE HOUSE n AND IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY WHEN IT PASSED TO THE COMUNE WHO MADE THE LOWER AREA A PRISON AND THE UPPER ONE A COUNCIL CHAMBER 4O THE LEFT OF THE TEMPLE STANDS THE 0ALAZZO DEL #APITANO DEL 0OPOLO COMPLETED IN n THOUGH VARIOUS COD MEDIEVAL ADORNMENTS WERE ADDED IN n AND THE 4ORRE DEL 0OPOLO BUILT IN .OTICE THE MEASURES AT THE BASE OF THE TOWER WHICH RECORD STANDARD SIZES FOR STONES AND OTHER BUILDING MATERI ALS AS THEY WERE IN /N THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE PIAZZA THE MUCH RESTORED 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE ONCE CONTAINED THE 0INACOTECA #OMUNALE THE SIGN FOR WHICH REMAINS SINCE IT FORMS PART OF A HISTORIC BUILDING AND AS SUCH APPARENTLY CANNOT BE REMOVED 3OUTH OF THE PIAZZA YOU MIGHT PAY QUICK HOMAGE TO 3T &RANCISS SUPPOSED BIRTHPLACE A SPOT COMMEMORATED BY THE UNREMARKABLE #HIESA .UOVA DAILY AMnNOON nPM FREE n BUILT ON LAND OWNED BY &RANCISS FATHER AT THE EXPENSE OF 0HILIP ))) OF 3PAIN n AND A PIAZZA BOASTING TWO PROMINENT BRONZE STATUES OF &RANCISS PARENTS &ORO 2OMANO E #OLLEZIONE !RCHEOLOGICA
4HE &ORO 2OMANO E #OLLEZIONE !RCHEOLOGICA ENTERED JUST OFF 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE AT 6IA 0ORTICA SAME HOURS AS 0INACOTECA #OMUNALE + INCLUD ING ADMISSION TO 0INACOTECA JOINT TICKET WITH 0INACOTECA AND 2OCCA -AGGIORE + IS UNLIKELY TO DIVERT UNLESS YOURE INTERESTED IN ARCHEOLOGY AND !SSISIS 2OMAN HERITAGE )TS HOUSED IN THE CRYPT OF THE DEFUNCT CHURCH OF 3AN .ICOLÛ DOCUMENTED AS EARLY AS BUT DEMOLISHED IN TO MAKE WAY FOR THE ERSATZ MEDIEVAL POST OFlCE BUILDING ! PASSAGE FROM THE MUSEUM RUNS UNDER 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE WHERE EXCAVATIONS ARE IN PROGRESS TO UNCOVER THE 2OMAN REMAINS HERE WITHOUT DISRUPTING THE PIAZZA ABOVE AT PRESENT ITS RATHER HARD TO MAKE ANY SENSE OF THE UNDERGROUND MAZE WHICH SCHOLARS NOW BELIEVE IS NOT THE OLD 2OMAN FORUM AS WAS LONG BELIEVED BUT A RELIGIOUS SANCTUARY LINKED TO THE SURVIVING 4EMPIO DI -INERVA THE FORUM ITS NOW THOUGHT MAY HAVE OCCUPIED THE PRESENT DAY SITE OF THE $UOMO $OTTED AROUND THE AREA ARE PARTS OF STATUES AND PILLARS BUSTS URNS AND OTHER 2OMAN AND %TRUSCAN FRAGMENTS ALL GIVEN ADDED LUSTRE BY THEIR STRANGE SUBTERRANEAN SETTING
4HE $UOMO 3ANTA #HIARA AND THE 2OCCA *UST EAST OF THE 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE THE &RANCISCAN TRAIL CONTINUES WITH IMPOR TANT STOPS AT THE $UOMO AND 3ANTA #HIARA WHILE UP IN THE NORTHEAST CORNER
OF THE WALLS A SWEEP OF PARK LEADS TO THE 2OCCA -AGGIORE THE BEST PRESERVED CASTLE IN 5MBRIA WITH lNE VIEWS OVER THE CITY AND BEYOND
4HE $UOMO
3OUTH OF THE $UOMO THOUGH MOST EASILY REACHED FROM THE 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE IS THE "ASILICA DI 3ANTA #HIARA DAILY %ASTERn/CT AMnPM .OVn%ASTER AMnPM FREE THE BURIAL PLACE OF 3T #LARE 3T &RANCISS DEVOTED FOLLOWER 4HE CHURCH WAS BEGUN IN AND CONSECRATED IN TWELVE YEARS AFTER HER DEATH )T STANDS ON THE SITE FORMERLY OCCUPIED BY THE CHURCH OF 3AN 'IORGIO
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4HE "ASILICA DI 3ANTA #HIARA
!3 3 ) 3 ) !.$ 4 ( % 6! , % / & 3 0 / , % 4/ 4HE $UOMO 3ANTA #HIARA THE 2OCCA
!S YOU EMERGE FROM THE NARROW STREETS EAST OF 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE YOURE MET BY THE CAPTIVATING SIGHT OF THE $UOMO OR 3AN 2UlNO DAILY !PRILn/CT AMnPM nPM .OVn&EB AMnPM nPM FREE WITH ITS TYPICALLY THREE TIERED 5MBRIAN FACADE )TS 2OMANESQUE PORTAL IS A SUPERB PIECE OF CARV ING GUARDED BY TWO RED MARBLE LIONS AND FRAMED BY LILIES LEAVES FACES BIRDS WINGED CROCODILES AND A PAIR OF GRIFFONS ,OOK IN THE LUNETTE FOR THE CHILD BEING SUCKLED AND ITS TWO DOUR PARENTS !LONGSIDE IS A HUGE STOLID CAMPANILE MAN AGING SOMEHOW TO lT INTO THE OVERALL SCHEME OF THE CHURCH !CCORDING TO TRADITION THE lRST CHURCH ON THE SITE WAS BUILT AROUND OSTEN SIBLY TO HOUSE THE BONES OF 3T 2UlNUS !SSISIS lRST BISHOP MARTYRED SOME YEARS EARLIER !NOTHER BETTER DOCUMENTED BUILDING WAS RAISED AROUND BY "ISHOP 5GONE FROM WHICH THE CRYPT AND PRESENT CAMPANILE SURVIVE 9ET ANOTHER CHURCH n MORE OR LESS THE ONE THAT SURVIVES TODAY n WAS BEGUN IN AND CONSECRATED IN ! SMALL MUSEUM THE #RIPTA DELLA #ATTEDRALE OR "ASILICA 5GONIANA DAILY !PRILn/CT AMnPM nPM .OVn&EB AMnPM nPM + REACHED DOWN STEPS TO THE RIGHT OF THE FACADE CONTAINS FRAG MENTS FROM THESE EARLIER CHURCHES 4HE AREA WAS NOT DISCOVERED UNTIL AND FEATURES REMNANTS OF VERY EARLY FRESCOES PARTS OF A 2OMAN WALL AND CONDUIT AND A THIRD CENTURY 2OMAN SARCOPHAGUS USED AS 2UlNUSS ORIGINAL TOMB ,OCAL TRADITION HAS IT THAT "ISHOP 5GONE HAD WANTED TO BURY 2UlNUS IN 3ANTA -ARIA -AGGIORE THEN THE TOWNS CATHEDRAL BUT THE TOWNSPEOPLE HAD ARGUED FOR THE NEW CHURCH 4HERE APPARENTLY ENSUED A LITERAL TUG OF WAR WITH THE SAINTS COF lN THE BISHOP AND HIS COHORTS PULLING ONE WAY THE LOCALS THE OTHER 4HE LATTER CLEARLY TRIUMPHED THOUGH THE TALE IS PROBABLY MORE A PARABLE OF THE ASCENDANCY OF THE LAY CITY COMUNES OF THE TIME THAN ANYTHING ELSE )NSIDE THE MAIN POINT OF INTEREST IS THE FONT USED TO BAPTIZE 3T &RANCIS 3T #LARE AND POSSIBLY THE FUTURE EMPEROR &REDERICK )) APPARENTLY BORN PREMA TURELY IN A NEARBY VILLAGE )TS AT THE NEAR END OF THE CHURCH ON THE RIGHT FRONTED BY 2OMANESQUE STATUES OF A LION AND WINGED OX /PPOSITE THE BEGINNING OF THE LEFT AISLE CONTAINS A LITTLE DOOR WHICH LEADS TO AN IMPRESSIVE 2OMAN CISTERN RECENT RESEARCH HAVING LED SCHOLARS TO BELIEVE THAT THE CATHEDRAL SQUARE n RATHER THAN 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE n WAS THE SITE OF THE TOWNS ORIGINAL 2OMAN FORUM 6ARIOUS GLASS PANELS WERE LET INTO THE mOOR DURING POST QUAKE RESTORATION TO OFFER INSIGHTS INTO THE BUILDINGS EARLIER INCARNATIONS BUT THEY OFFER LITTLE OF INTEREST 4HE CHURCH DOES HAVE A COUPLE OF OFFBEAT SIGHTS A TERRACOTTA 6IRGIN LEFT OF THE ALTAR WHICH BURST INTO TEARS IN AND A STONE KNELT ON BY AN ANGEL ATTENDING &RANCISS BAPTISM n HE LEFT THE IMPRINT OF HIS KNEE ON IT 3T 2UlNUSS REMAINS STILL LIE BENEATH THE ALTAR /FF THE RIGHT SOUTH NAVE THERES THE SMALL -USEO #APITOLARE SAME HOURS AND TICKET AS #RIPTA WITH A PASSABLE LITTLE COL LECTION OF PAINTINGS INCLUDING A lNE TRIPTYCH BY .ICOLÛ !LUNNO SHOWING SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF 3T 2UlNUS
3T #LARE
!3 3 ) 3 ) !. $ 4 ( % 6! , % / & 3 0 / , % 4/
\ 4HE $UOMO 3ANTA #HIARA THE 2OCCA
3T #LARE 3ANTA #HIARA WAS A CLOSE EARLY COMPANION OF 3T &RANCIS AND THE FOUNDER OF THE 0OOR #LARES THE &RANCISCAN NUNS "ORN IN INTO A NOBLE FAMILY SHE HAD A DEEPLY RELIGIOUS UPBRINGING FROM HER MOTHER AN EDUCATION WHICH BACKlRED WHEN ENRAPTURED AT THE AGE OF BY THE PREACHING OF &RANCIS SHE REJECTED HER FAMILY AND TWO OFFERS OF MARRIAGE TO LIVE WITH THE SAINT )N AN ACT OF SYMBOLIC REMOVAL FROM THE WORLD HE CUT OFF HER BLONDE HAIR THE LOCKS OF WHICH ARE STILL VISIBLE IN HER BASILICA AND REPLACED HER lNERY WITH A ROUGH CASSOCK ! YEAR AFTER HER CONVERSION SHE TOOK HER LEAVE OF &RANCIS AND n BUT FOR THE OCCASIONAL VISION n NEVER SAW HIM AGAIN UNTIL HIS DEATH !FTER INITIAL OPPOSITION FROM THE FAMILY #LARES SISTER 3T !GNES JOINED HER IN SPIRITUAL RETREAT AND WAS LATER JOINED BY HER WIDOWED MOTHER /THER YOUNG GIRLS FROM !SSISI SIMILARLY INSPIRED BY &RANCISS EXAMPLE ADDED TO THE GROWING COMMUNITY OF WOMEN WHICH WAS SOON INSTALLED BY &RANCIS IN THE CHURCH OF 3AN $AMIANO )N #LARE OBTAINED FROM 0OPE )NNOCENT ))) THE hPRIVILEGE OF POVERTYv n PERMISSION FOR THE CRE ATION OF AN ORDER OF NUNS TO LIVE SOLELY ON ALMS AND WITHOUT PROPERTY OF ANY KIND /VER THE YEARS THE 0OOR #LARES RIGHT TO EXIST WAS FREQUENTLY CHALLENGED YET #LARE LIKE &RANCIS MANAGED TO DISSEMINATE THE MOVEMENT THROUGHOUT %UROPE 3HE DIED ON !UGUST OUTLIVING &RANCIS BY YEARS 3HE WAS CANONIZED TWO YEARS LATER AND BY UNDIGNIlED QUIRK IS NOW THE PATRON SAINT OF TELEVISION AWARDED THE HONOUR IN BY 0OPE 0IUS 8)) IN RECOGNITION OF HER POWERS ALTHOUGH BEDRID DEN SHE WAS ABLE TO SEE AND HEAR THE RITES OF A #HRISTMAS SERVICE PERFORMED BY &RANCIS A KILOMETRE AWAY
WHERE 3T &RANCIS WENT TO SCHOOL WHERE HIS CANONIZATION TOOK PLACE AND WHERE HIS BODY LAY DURING CONSTRUCTION OF THE "ASILICA #LARE TOO WAS BURIED IN THE CHURCH UNTIL HER OWN RESTING PLACE WAS COMPLETED 4HE CHURCH IS A VIRTUAL FACSIMILE OF THE "ASILICA DI 3AN &RANCESCO WITH ITS SIMPLE FACADE AND OPULENT ROSE WINDOW )TS ENGINEERING HOWEVER WASNT UP TO THE SAME STANDARDS AND THE STRANGE BUTTRESSES WERE ADDED IN TO PREVENT ITS COLLAPSE "EFORE VENTURING IN WANDER OVER TO THE EDGE OF THE PIAZZA IN FRONT OF THE CHURCH FOR SOME GRAND VIEWS OF THE 6ALE OF 3POLETO AND THE TOWNS ROOFTOPS 4HE INTERIOR IS DARK AND ALMOST BARE THE RESULT OF SOME ZEALOUS EARLY CENSOR SHIP A SEVENTEENTH CENTURY 'ERMAN BISHOP CALLED 3PADER AFRAID THAT THE NUNS MIGHT BE CORRUPTED BY CONTACT WITH WORLDLY TOURISTS HAD ITS CYCLE OF FRESCOES OBLITERATED /NLY A FEW PATCHES OF EARLIER 3IENESE FRESCOES FROM THE ORIGINAL 3AN 'IORGIO HAVE SURVIVED MOSTLY IN THE TRANSEPTS AND CROSS VAULTS ABOVE THE HIGH ALTAR HIGH IN THE SOUTH TRANSEPT ARE 3CENES FROM THE !POCALYPSE AND ,IFE OF #HRIST AND UNDER THEM 4HE $EATH AND &UNERAL OF 3T #LARE ALL THE WORK OF A CLOSE COL LABORATOR OF 'IOTTO 4HE SCENES ABOVE THE HIGH ALTAR ABOVE WHICH HANGS A LARGE THIRTEENTH CENTURY #RUCIlX SHOW 3CENES FROM THE ,IFE OF 3T #LARE WHILE THE TWO REGISTERS WAY UP IN THE NORTH TRANSEPT DEPICT %PISODES FROM 'ENESIS 4HE ALTARS -ADONNA AND #HILD C IS PROBABLY THE WORK OF THE 'IOTTESQUE ARTIST OF THE SOUTH TRANSEPT /NE OF THE TWO CHAPELS OFF THE RIGHT AISLE THE /RATORIO DEL #ROCIlSSO CONTAINS THE "YZANTINE #RUCIlX THAT BOWED ITS HEAD AND SPOKE TO &RANCIS IN 3AN $AMIANO !LONGSIDE ARE VARIOUS CLOTHES AND ODDMENTS THAT BELONGED TO #LARE AND &RANCIS WHILE THE BODY OF #LARE HERSELF RESTS IN THE "AROQUE HORROR OF THE CRYPT
4HE 2OCCA -AGGIORE 2ISING ABOVE THE TOWN THE 2OCCA -AGGIORE DAILY AMnDUSK !UG OPENS AM + JOINT TICKET WITH 0INACOTECA AND &ORO 2OMANO + DATES BACK
TO #HARLEMAGNE WHO IS SUPPOSED TO HAVE RAISED THE lRST DEFENSIVE WALLS HERE AFTER SACKING THE TOWN 4HE STRUCTURE SURVIVING TODAY WITH ITS LOOMING TOWERS TURRETS AND PARAPETS OWES MOST TO #ARDINAL !LBORNOZ WHO ARRIVED TO ASSERT PAPAL AUTHORITY IN REPAIRING AN EARLIER CASTLE THAT HAD BEEN RAVAGED BY REPEATED SKIRMISHES WITH 0ERUGIA #HURCH GOVERNORS REPUTEDLY DISPENSED JUS TICE BY HANGING CRIMINALS FROM THE BATTLEMENTS OR BY THROWING THEM OUT OF A CASTLE WINDOW INTO THE RAVINE 4HE SEDUCTIVE MEDIEVAL STREETS LEADING UP TO THE 2OCCA FROM THE $UOMO ARE THE QUIETEST IN !SSISI PARTLY BECAUSE OF THEIR DISTANCE FROM TOURIST TARGETS BUT PERHAPS AS MUCH DUE TO THEIR lERCE GRADIENTS 4HE FORTRESS IS WELL WORTH THE CLIMB THE GREEN SURROUNDS PROVIDE IDEAL PICNIC TERRITORY AND YOULL BE REWARDED WITH ALL EMBRACING VIEWS TAKING IN !SSISI 0ERUGIA AND THE 6ALE OF 3POLETO ACROSS TO -ONTEFALCO AND THE -ONTI -ARTANI
/UTSIDE THE WALLS
3AN $AMIANO
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)T WAS IN 3AN $AMIANO DAILY AMnPM nPM .OVn-ARCH CLOSES PM FREE IN THAT &RANCIS RECEIVED HIS CALLING TO MAKE REPAIRS AND WHERE HE BROUGHT 3T #LARE AND HER FOLLOWERS hPOURING THE SWEETNESS OF #HRIST INTO HER EARSv #LARE REMAINED HERE TILL HER DEATH THOUGH THE NUNS LEFT SEVEN YEARS AFTERWARDS !FTER INSTALLING THE 0OOR #LARES &RANCIS CAME TO 3AN $AMIANO JUST ONCE TOWARDS THE END OF HIS LIFE WHEN n SICK AND HALF BLIND n HE COMPOSED THE #ANTICLE OF THE 3UN (IS BODY RESTED HERE BRIEmY AFTER DEATH FULlLLING A PROM ISE TO #LARE THAT SHE MIGHT SEE HIM ONCE MORE /WNED BY ,ORD ,OTHIAN UNTIL THE CHURCH NOW BELONGS TO THE &RIARS -INOR WHO HAVE KEPT IT IN MUCH THE SAME STATE AS IT WAS CENTURIES AGO n A CON DITION LAID DOWN BY ,OTHIAN WHEN HE MADE HIS BEQUEST ,OTHIAN HAD INHERITED IT IN TURN FROM DESCENDANTS OF ,ORD 2IPON A #ATHOLIC CONVERT WHO BOUGHT IT IN WHEN )TALYS MONASTIC AND MOST OTHER RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS PASSED TO THE STATE !LONE AMONG THE PLACES IN !SSISI WITH &RANCISCAN ASSOCIATIONS THIS ONE PRESERVES SOMETHING OF AN IDEAL THAT IS RECOGNIZABLY &RANCISCAN n RURAL AND PEACEFUL IN ITS GROVES OF OLIVES CYPRESSES AND WILD mOWERS WITH THE PASTORAL 6ALE OF 3POLETO STRETCHING AWAY BELOW 4O REACH IT WALK DOWN THE "ORGO !RETINO FROM 3ANTA #HIARA AND THEN FOLLOW THE SIGNS THROUGH THE CAR PARK AND OLIVE GROVE n A VERY STEEP DOWNHILL WALK OF ABOUT lFTEEN MINUTES 3IGNS POINT THE WAY ROUND THE COMPLEX STARTING OUTSIDE WITH A FRESCO DEPICT ING 3T 2OCH n THE SAINT INVOKED AGAINST INFECTIOUS DISEASES n PROUDLY DISPLAYING A PLAGUE SORE 4HE LITTLE BALCONY ABOVE THE MAIN ENTRANCE IS THE POINT FROM WHICH #LARE HOLDING ALOFT THE 3ACRAMENT TURNED BACK AN ENTIRE 3ARACEN ARMY THAT WAS PURSUING !SSISIS 'UELPHS )NSIDE THE NAVE OF THE CHURCH n WHICH WAS A "ENEDICTINE FOUNDATION AT LEAST AS EARLY AS n IS SIMPLE AND SMOKE DARKENED WITH A BEAUTIFULLY DECREPIT WOODEN CHOIR AND LECTERN /N THE RIGHT HAND SIDE IS THE SMALL WINDOW WHERE 3AN $AMIANOS PRIEST THREW THE MONEY THAT &RANCIS OFFERED HIM TO REPAIR THE CHURCH .EARBY YOU CAN SEE THE TINY HOLE WHERE THE
!3 3 ) 3 ) !.$ 4 ( % 6! , % / & 3 0 / , % 4/ /UTSIDE THE WALLS
4HE &RANCISCAN TRAIL LEADS SOUTH FROM 3ANTA #HIARA TO 3AN $AMIANO AND FOR THE ENERGETIC TO A COUPLE OF SITES FARTHER OUTSIDE TOWN n THE %REMO DELLE #ARCERI KM EAST AND 3ANTA -ARIA DEGLI !NGELI IN THE NEW TOWN AROUND THE STATION KM SOUTHWEST OF THE OLD TOWN 3AN $AMIANO IS WELL WORTH THE SHORT DETOUR IN A TOWN INCREASINGLY UNDERMINED BY TACKY COMMERCIALISM IT RETAINS AN AIR OF CALM AND DIGNITY
SAINT HID hFOR A MONTHv FROM THE WRATH OF HIS FATHER "EYOND SOME STAIRS LEADING TO A TERRACE AND SMALL GARDEN IS A VESTIBULE WITH THE WOODWORMED CHOIR AND TWO FRESCOES ONE A LOVELY -ADONNA AND #HILD BY AN UNKNOWN 'IOTTESQUE ARTIST 5P THE STAIRS YOU REACH THE ORATORY AND THEN A SMALL DORMITORY WITH A CROSS AND mOWERS MARKING THE SPOT WHERE #LARE DIED ! DOOR TO THE RIGHT LEADS TO THE CLOISTERS WHERE YOU MAY CATCH A GLIMPSE OF THE REFECTORY STILL EQUIPPED WITH ITS ORIGINAL TABLE AND OAK BENCHES
4HE %REMO DELLE #ARCERI
!3 3 ) 3 ) !.$ 4 ( % 6! , % / & 3 0 / , % 4/
\ /UTSIDE THE WALLS
!LL OVER !SSISI YOULL SEE PICTURES OF THE %REMO DELLE #ARCERI DAILY AMn DUSK FREE AN ACTIVE MONASTERY SITUATED IN OAK WOODS ABOUT KM EAST )T CAN BE EASILY REACHED BY ROAD BUT THE BEST APPROACH IS TO FOLLOW THE FOOTPATH n CLIMBING VERY STEEPLY FOR THE lRST KILOMETRE OR SO n FROM THE 0ORTA #APPUCCINI OUTSIDE THE GATE TURN LEFT ALONG THE TRACK OF CYPRESSES AND THEN FOLLOW THE MARKED PATH UP AND TO THE RIGHT BEHIND THE 2OCCA -INORE AT THE MAJOR FORK A LITTLE WAY BEYOND TURN RIGHT SOMETIMES THE SIGNS MISSING THEN AT THE TOP KEEP GOING LEVEL AND STRAIGHT UNTIL YOU HIT THE ROAD JUST ABOVE THE MONASTERY !LLOW AT LEAST AN HOUR LESS COMING BACK ! GRATUITY IS EXPECTED AS THE MONKS n WHO SOME TIMES ACT AS GUIDES n LIVE ONLY OFF THE ALMS THEY RECEIVE 4HE MONASTERY IS CLOSED FOR RELIGIOUS FESTIVALS 4HE HERMITAGE WAS AN EARLY PLACE OF RETREAT FOR &RANCIS AND HIS FOLLOWERS THE SAINT CAUSED THE WELL IN THE COURTYARD TO mOW AS DEPICTED BY 'IOTTO AND A CELL KNOWN AS THE /RATORIO 0RIMITIVO HAS BEEN IDENTIlED AS THAT OCCUPIED BY &RANCIS 4HERES ALSO A CHAPEL CONTAINING VARIOUS UNLIKELY RELICS &RANCISS PILLOW AND A PIECE OF THE 'OLDEN 'ATE THROUGH WHICH *ESUS PASSED INTO *ERUSALEM 4HE HERMITAGE ONCE OWNED A LOCK OF THE 6IRGINS HAIR TOO AND SOME EARTH FROM THE MOUND THAT 'OD USED TO CREATE !DAM THOUGH THESE TREASURES HAVE SADLY DISAP PEARED 7ITH SOME VERY LOW DOORS AND TIGHT CORNERS TO NEGOTIATE THE WHOLE EXPERIENCE IS QUITE CLAUSTROPHOBIC /N THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CHURCH IS A DRY RIVERBED ONCE A TORRENT UNTIL &RANCIS TOLD IT TO HUSH BECAUSE IT WAS SPOILING HIS PRAYERS )T lLLS UP TODAY ONLY WHEN SOME PUBLIC CALAMITY IS AT HAND /NE OF THE WALLS HERE WAS BUILT OVER THE SO CALLED BUCO DEL DIAVOLO A CREVICE INTO WHICH &RANCIS CAST A DEVIL BY THE POWER OF PRAYER !N OLD HOLM OAK KEPT UPRIGHT BY IRON STAKES IS SAID TO HAVE SHADED THE SAINT AND TO HAVE BEEN A SPOT WHERE BIRDS COLLECTED TO HEAR HIS SERMONS "EYOND THIS POINT A LOVELY PATH AMBLES INTO THE WOODS WITH PLENTY OF NOOKS AND SIDE TRACKS WHERE YOU CAN ESCAPE FOR A SIESTA
3ANTA -ARIA DEGLI !NGELI $IFlCULT TO MISS FROM ALMOST ANY POINT IN THE 6ALE OF 3POLETO THE HUGE DOMED BASILICA OF 3ANTA -ARIA DEGLI !NGELI DAILY AMnPM !UG ALSO nPM FREE RISES FROM THE NEW TOWN CLUSTERED AROUND !SSISI TRAIN STATION n AN AREA TO WHICH IT HAS GIVEN ITS NAME ! MAJESTICALLY UNINSPIRING PILE IT WAS BUILT BETWEEN AND THEN REBUILT AFTER AN EARTHQUAKE IN )TS FUNCTION IS TO SHEL TER THE 0ORZUINCOLA ,ITTLE 0ORTION THE HUT CUM CHAPEL THAT &RANCIS MADE THE CENTRE OF THE EARLIEST &RANCISCAN MOVEMENT 3TRANDED LIKE A DOLLS HOUSE IN THE CHURCHS AUSTERE "AROQUE BOWELS IT HAS BEEN EMBELLISHED WITH DREADFUL NINETEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES ON THE OUTSIDE BUT INSIDE THERE ARE FEATURES CLAIMED TO BE THOSE OF &RANCISS ROUGH STONE HOVEL AS WELL AS GOOD FOURTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES ON THE LIFE OF THE SAINT "ITS OF THE OLD MONASTERY HAVE BEEN EXCAVATED UNDER THE MAIN ALTAR SITE OF THE SAINTS DEATH AND OF #LARES ABRUPT CONVERSION "URIED IN THE CHAPEL
IS "ROTHER #ATANEII ONE OF THE EARLIEST &RANCISCANS (E PERFORMED SO MANY MIRACLES FROM BEYOND THE GRAVE AND ATTRACTED SO MANY EXPECTANT CROWDS AS A RESULT THAT &RANCIS IMPLORED HIM IN PRAYER h.OW THAT WE ARE INFECTED WITH ALL THESE PEOPLE OF THE WORLD ) ENJOIN THEE BY OBEDIENCE TO MAKE AN END OF THY MIRACLES AND ALLOW US TO RECOVER IN PEACEv 4HE MIRACLES STOPPED )N THE GARDEN ARE DESCENDANTS OF THE ROSE BUSHES INTO WHICH &RANCIS THREW HIMSELF WHILE GRAPPLING WITH SOME IMMENSE NOCTURNAL TEMPTATION THEIR THORNS OBLIGINGLY DROPPED OFF AFTER CONTACT WITH HIS SAINTLY mESH 4HEY NOW BLOOM THORNLESS EVERY -AY THEIR LEAVES STAINED WITH THE BLOOD SHED THAT NIGHT 0ILGRIMS mOCK TO THE BASILICA ON !UGUST n FOR THE 0ARDON OF 3T &RANCIS A VISIT WHICH GUARANTEES AUTOMATIC ABSOLUTION 4HE PARDON RECALLS A VISION OF #HRIST THAT &RANCIS EXPERIENCED WHEN HE WAS ASKED WHAT MIGHT BE BEST FOR THE HUMAN SOUL &RANCIS REPLIED FORGIVENESS FOR ALL WHO CROSSED THE THRESHOLD OF HIS CHAPEL 4HE ALREADY VAST NUMBERS OF PILGRIMS WERE SWELLED IN THE S BY THE SUPPOSED MOVEMENT OF THE EIGHT METRE HIGH BRONZE -ADONNA ON THE FACADE
%ATING AND DRINKING
2ESTAURANTS
TANGLE OF ALLEYS AND ARCHES A FEW STEPS FROM THE 4EMPIO DI -INERVA THIS RUSTIC AND INFORMAL LITTLE PLACE IS GOOD FOR SIMPLE WELL COOKED MEALS )TS POSSIBLE TO EAT OUTSIDE IN GOOD WEATHER #LOSED -ON -EDIOEVO 6IA DELL!RCO DEI 0RIORI B *UST SOUTH OFF THE 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE THIS EXTREMELY TASTEFUL MEDIEVAL VAULTED DINING ROOM IS RECOMMENDED IF YOU WANT TO DRESS UP A TOUCH THE EXCELLENT COOKING HAS A VAGUELY hINTERNATIONALv mAVOUR 4HERE IS A CHEAPER AND LIGHTER MENU AT LUNCH #LOSED 7ED AND *AN THREE WEEKS IN *ULY 0ALLOTTA 6IA 6OLTA 0INTA /NLY JUST OFF 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE BUT A VERY REASONABLE UNPRETENTIOUS AND WELCOMING TRATTORIA BOOK OR ARRIVE BEFORE PM TO BE SURE OF GET TING A PLACE FOR LUNCH #LOSED 4UES 2ISTORANTE ,A 2OCCA 6IA DI 0ORTA 0ERLICI !NNEXED TO THE HOTEL THIS IS A BIG CHEAP HIGH QUALITY LOCALS PLACE WITH REASONABLE FOOD AND NO FRILLS #LOSED 7ED
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"UCA DI 3AN &RANCESCO 6IA "RIZI ! REPUTATION AS THE BEST IN TOWN IS SOMETIMES BELIED BY ERRATIC QUALITY THOUGH THE COOKING CAN BE OUTSTANDING !S A BONUS THERES A HALF COVERED OUTSIDE TERRACE FOR SUMMER EATING #LOSED -ON TWO WEEKS IN *ULY ) -ONACI 3CALETTA DEL -ETASTASIO 6IA &ONTEBELLA %NTRANCE IN A STEPPED ALLEY OFF THE NORTH SIDE OF 6IA &ONTEBELLA A FEW STEPS DOWN FROM 0IAZZETTA 'ARIBALDI ,ARGE FRIENDLY PLACE FOR PASTAS AND PIZZAS FROM A WOOD lRED OVEN ONE OF THE FEW PLACES WHERE PIZZAS ARE AVAILABLE AT LUNCHTIME #LOSED 7ED ,A &ORTEZZA 6ICOLO DELLA &ORTEZZA )NVARIABLY BUSY BUT FRIENDLY RESTAURANT WITH A HIGH REPUTATION GREAT FOOD MEDIEVAL SETTING AND REASONABLE PRICES (OWEVER SERVICE CAN BE VERY SLOW AT BUSY TIMES %SSENTIAL TO RESERVE IN SUMMER #LOSED 4HURS &EB ,A 0IAZZETTA DELL%RBA 6IA 3AN 'ABRIELE DELL!DDOLORATA B ,OST IN A
!3 3 ) 3 ) !.$ 4 ( % 6! , % / & 3 0 / , % 4/ %ATING AND DRINKING
-ULTILINGUAL TOURIST MENUS PROLIFERATE IN !SSISIS RESTAURANTS AND PRICES CAN BE STEEP )N GENERAL FOR CHEAPER AND MORE AUTHENTIC OUTLETS MAKE FOR PERIPHERAL DISTRICTS AWAY FROM THE "ASILICA AND 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE THE MEDIEVAL STREETS LEADING UP FROM THE $UOMO TO THE 2OCCA ARE WHERE YOULL lND THE CHEAPEST BARS AND SNACKS #AFÏS AND BARS ARE DOTTED AROUND TOWN WITH THOSE IN 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE OFFERING THE BEST PEOPLE WATCHING OPPORTUNITIES n AND THE HIGHEST PRICES &OR SOMETHING QUIETER TRY THE 'RAN #AFFÒ #ORSO -AZZINI A THE INTE RIOR IS PLEASANT DESPITE THE MIMSY PASTEL FRESCOES AND CHINTZY CHERUBS &OR ICE CREAM AND CAKES MAKE FOR ,A "OTTEGA DEL 0ASTICCERIA 6IA 0ORTICA A SMALL PLACE A FEW STEPS FROM 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE THAT MUST HAVE THE MOST MOUTHWATERING WINDOW DISPLAY IN 5MBRIA 0ILGRIM BOUND !SSISI HAS JUST ONE IN TOWN DISCO THE (ERMITAGE LOCATED UNDER THE (ERMITAGE HOTEL 6IA DEGLI !ROMATARI
3AN &RANCESCO 6IA 3AN &RANCESCO 'ENERALLY GOOD AND ORIGINAL COOK ING THAT TAKES 5MBRIAN BASICS AS ITS STARTING POINT
(OWEVER SERVICE CAN BE SURLY AND SOME PRICES ARE HIGHER THAN THE FOOD MERITS #LOSED 7ED AND TWO WEEKS IN *ULY .OV
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"IKE RENTAL !NDREA !NGELUCCI 6IA "ECCHETTI WWWANGELUCCICICLIIT "OOKS MAPS AND GUIDES %REDI DI % :UBBOLI IN THE SOUTHEAST CORNER OF 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE IS PARTICULARLY GOOD FOR GUIDES IN %NGLISH AND HAS A SMALL SELECTION OF OTHER %NGLISH LANGUAGE TITLES )T ALSO HAS MAPS AS DOES !SSISIS OLDEST SHOP 3AN 6IGNATI ABOUT M AWAY DOWNHILL AT 6IA 0ORTICA "US ENQUIRIES !30 FOR !SSISI AND AROUND 35,'! FOR 2OME &LORENCE !-!$)/ FOR 3IENA AND !SCOLI 0ICENO 30/,%4).! FOR &OLIGNO -ONTEFALCO AND "EVAGNA OR 6ISIT WWWUMBRIATRASPORTIIT FOR MORE DETAILS #AR RENTAL !NDREA #UPPOLONI WITH DRIVER ONLY 0IAGGIA 3AN 0IETRO -ARCO 3ALIMBETI 6IA 3AN "ENEDETTO OR .ICOLA #ORRIDONI 6IA #APOBOVE WHO ALSO RENTS CARS WITH A DRIVER %XCHANGE 3LICKEST FACILITIES AT THE AUTOMATIC MACHINES OUTSIDE BANK BRANCHES IN 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE AND 0IAZZA 5NITÌ D)TALIA "ANCA 0OPOLARE 0IAZZA 3ANTA #HIARA AND "ANCA 4OSCANA 0IAZZA
3AN 0IETRO 4HERE ARE NUMEROUS EXCHANGE KIOSKS AROUND TOWN &IRST AID 0RONTO 3OCCORSO /SPEDALE DI !SSISI OR ,OST PROPERTY !T 6IGILI 5RBANI 6ICOLO 6OLTA 0INTA -ONn3AT AMnNOON -ARKETS !SSISIS MAIN MARKET IS IN 0IAZZA -AT TEOTTI 3AT MORNINGS 0IAZZA #HIESA .UOVA HOSTS AN ANTIQUES MARKET 3AT 3UN OF ND WEEK OF MONTH 0OLICE 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI B AND 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE 0OST OFlCE ,ARGO 0ROPERZIO AND 0IAZZA 3AN 0IETRO 4AXIS 4RAIN STATION 0IAZZA 3AN &RANCESCO 0IAZZA 5NITÌ D)TALIA 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE 0IAZZA 3ANTA #HIARA 4RAIN ENQUIRIES OR WWWTRENITALIAIT 4RAVEL AGENT 3TOPPINI #ORSO -AZZINI SELLS TRAIN AND BUS TICKETS AS WELL AS FERRY TICKETS TO 3ARDINIA
4HE 6ALE OF 3POLETO 4HE 6ALE OF 3POLETO OR 6ALLE 5MBRA DESCRIBES A GRACEFUL ARC FROM !SSISI IN THE NORTH TO 3POLETO IN THE SOUTH AN ALMOST PERFECTLY mAT CRESCENT OF LAND THAT WAS ONCE THE BOTTOM OF ,AGO 4IBERINO A VAST SHALLOW LAKE LIKE PRESENT DAY ,AGO 4RASIMENO WHICH WAS EVENTUALLY DRAINED BY THE 2OMANS )T HAS LONG BEEN AN IMPORTANT STRATEGIC ROUTE CARRYING PART OF THE 6IA &LAMINIA A 2OMAN CONSULAR ROAD AN ARTERY THAT EITHER BOLSTERED OR PROMPTED THE FOUNDATION OF THE AREAS KEY TOWNS AND VILLAGES 3PELLO "EVAGNA &OLIGNO -ONTEFALCO AND 4REVI !LL OF THESE PLACES ARE ESSENTIAL POINTS OF CALL WITH THE EXCEPTION OF &OLIGNO A LARGE AND MOSTLY MODERN PROVINCIAL TOWN AND ALL EPITOMIZE THE QUALITIES THAT HAVE COME TO BE ASSOCIATED WITH 4USCAN AND 5MBRIAN HILL TOWNS OLD MEDIEVAL CENTRES ATMOSPHERIC LITTLE STREETS AND ALLEYS FASCINATING ART GALLERIES AND EXCELLENT RESTAURANTS AND HISTORIC HOTELS !ROUND THESE VILLAGES AND ABOVE
THE VALLEY mOOR THE LANDSCAPES ARE HILLY AND PRETTY BUT ON THE PLAIN ITSELF INTENSIVELY CULTIVATED AGRICULTURAL LAND IS SPOTTED WITH THE EVER INCREASING BLIGHT OF MODERN HOUSING AND HAPHAZARDLY PLANNED INDUSTRIAL CONCERNS )N A CAR YOU CAN AVOID THE WORST OF THESE BY FOLLOWING COUNTRY ROADS BUT ON THE EXCELLENT BUS OR RAIL LINKS THAT PROVIDE ACCESS TO ALL THE TOWNS AND VIL LAGES BE WARNED THAT YOU WILL BE FACED WITH THE WORST OF THE VALLEYS MODERN DEVELOPMENT
3PELLO
!RRIVAL INFORMATION AND ACCOMMODATION
(OTELS !LTA 6ILLA 6IA -ANCINELLI 6ERY COMFORTABLE IF RATHER GAUDILY LUXURIOUS THREE STAR HOTEL WITH ROOMS SEVERAL MINUTES WALK DOWNHILL FROM THE OLD TOWN FOLLOW THE SIGNS FROM THE CORNER OF 0IAZZA 6ALLEGLORIA !T THE TOP END OF ITS PRICE BRACKET
#ONVENTO 3ANTA -ARIA -ADDALENA 6IA #AVOUR OR 6ERY PLEAS ANT AND LOW COST ROOMS ALMOST IMMEDIATELY OPPOSITE 3ANTA -ARIA -AGGIORE 2ING THE BELL ON THE RATHER ANONYMOUS DOOR ON THE SIDE OF THE BUILDING FACING BACK DOWN THE HILL $EL 4EATRO 6IA 'IULIA WWW
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3PELLO IS AN ALTERNATIVE BASE FOR !SSISI WITH A DECENT RANGE OF ACCOMMODATION SEVERAL GOOD RESTAURANTS AND A SMALL TOURIST OFlCE 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI DAILY AMnPM nPM CLOSES AT PM .OVn-ARCH OR WWWCOMUNESPELLOPGIT 2EGULAR STOPPING TRAINS SERVE THE TOWN FROM &OLIGNO AND 0ERUGIA n CHECK THAT THEY REALLY DO STOP THE STATION IS UNSTAFFED BUT THERES A TICKET MACHINE IN THE WAITING ROOM n AND UP TO NINE BUSES -ONn3AT DROP OFF HERE ON THE !SSISIn&OLIGNO RUN 4HE TORTUOUS MAIN STREET IS ONE WAY ALONG ITS ENTIRE LENGTH UPHILL FROM 0ORTA #ONSOLARE WITH THE MOST CENTRAL CAR PARK ON THE RIGHT IMMEDIATELY AFTER 3ANT!NDREA !LTERNATIVELY YOU CAN WALK DOWN FROM THE BIG CAR PARK OFF 6IA #IMITERO BY 0ORTA -ONTANARA #ALL FOR A TAXI ON 3PELLOS ACCOMMODATION IS RARELY TOO STRETCHED EXCEPT IN THE DAYS AROUND THE MAIN FESTIVAL THE )NlORITA ON #ORPUS $OMNI LATE -AY OR EARLY *UNE WHEN THE STREETS ARE LAID WITH CARPETS OF MINUTELY DETAILED PICTORIAL SCENES CREATED ENTIRELY BY HAND FROM MILLIONS OF mOWER PETALS )N THE WEEKS LEADING UP TO THE EVENT YOU WILL SEE PEOPLE EVERYWHERE SITTING AND TALKING WHILE THEY PATIENTLY REMOVE PETALS FROM STALKS 4HERES ALSO A FESTIVAL CELEBRATING THE AREAS OLIVE OIL IN THE WEEK BEFORE 3HROVE 4UESDAY
!3 3 ) 3 ) !.$ 4 ( % 6! , % / & 3 0 / , % 4/ 3PELLO
2ANGED IMPRESSIVELY ON BROAD WALLED TERRACES ABOVE THE 6ALE OF 3POLETO WITH THE LOFTY SLOPES OF -ONTE 3UBASIO BEYOND PINK STONED 30%,,/ OFFERS AN EASILY ACCESSIBLE TASTE OF MEDIEVAL SMALL TOWN 5MBRIA n AND A MAJOR ART ATTRAC TION IN ITS SUPERLATIVE FRESCOES BY 0INTURICCHIO IN THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA -AGGIORE )T ALSO BOASTS A FEW REMINDERS OF ITS 2OMAN PAST WHEN AS (ISPELLUM IT SERVED AS A RETIREMENT HOME FOR PENSIONED OFF LEGIONARIES AND AN IMPORTANT STAGING POST ON THE 6IA &LAMINIA ,ATER IT FELL TO THE ,OMBARDS n WHO DESTROYED IT n THEN BECAME PART OF THE $UCHY OF 3POLETO )N IT FELL TO &REDERICK )) WHO ALSO DESTROYED IT AND THEN PASSED UNDER THE YOKE OF 0ERUGIA /NCE YOURE OFF THE MAIN STREET THE MAIN CORE OF THE TOWN IS BEAUTIFULLY MEDIEVAL 4ODAY DESPITE ITS PROXIMITY TO !SSISI AND 3POLETO IT REMAINS RELATIVELY QUIET THOUGH SEVERAL NEW HOTELS AND A RASH OF CHINTZY FOOD WINE AND TRINKET SHOPS ARE TESTA MENT TO INCREASING NUMBERS OF TOURISTS
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)L #ACCIATORE 6IA 'IULIA WWWILCACCIATOREHOTELCOM 'OOD VALUE AND FRIENDLY SIXTEEN ROOM TWO STAR HOTEL WITH lNE VIEWS FROM SOME ROOMS ALTHOUGH THOSE ON THE ROAD SIDE ARE NOISY )TS WORTH STAYING HERE JUST FOR THE SUPERLATIVE PANORAMIC TERRACE
,A "ASTIGLIA 6IA DEI -OLLINI WWWLABASTIGLIACOM 4HIRTY THREE SMALLISH BUT SMART FOUR STAR ROOMS IN A BEAUTIFULLY RESTORED MILL MANY OF WHICH COMMAND A VIEW n PLUS A lNE BUT FANCY RESTAURANT 3OME ROOMS CAN BE RIDICULOUSLY EXPENSIVE BUT CHEAPER OPTIONS ARE AVAILABLE OUT OF HIGH SEASON 0ALAZZO "OCCI 6IA #AVOUR WWWPALAZZOBOCCI COM 4ASTEFUL SMART FOUR STAR HOTEL WITH TWENTY ROOMS IN A CONVERTED FRESCOED PALAZZO JUST UP FROM 3ANTA -ARIA -AGGIORE ! DElNITE lRST CHOICE IF YOURE DOING 5MBRIA IN STYLE 4HE CO OWNED )L -OLINO RESTAURANT IS OPPOSITE 0ORTONACCIO 6IA #ENTRALE 5MBRA WWW ALBERGOILPORTONACCIOIT )F YOU BAULK AT THE PRICES IN 3PELLOS CENTRAL HOTELS AND DONT MIND BEING
OUTSIDE THE WALLS MAKE FOR THIS BIG PLACE ON THE MAIN ROAD ROUNDABOUT M SOUTH OF 0ORTA #ONSOLARE 2ESIDENCE 3AN *ACOPO 6IA 'IULIA WWWRESIDENCESANJACOPOIT !N EXCELLENT CHOICE IF YOU WISH TO COOK TO SAVE WANT MORE ROOM THAN YOULL lND IN A HOTEL OR ARE TRAVEL ING IN A GROUP OR AS A FAMILY .INE MINI APARTMENTS OR RESIDENZE ARE AVAILABLE ABOVE THE 0INTURICCHIO RESTAURANT EACH WITH LINEN 46 PRIVATE BATHROOM AND KITCHEN FROM + FOR TWO PEOPLE PLUS + FOR EACH ADDITIONAL PERSON
#AMPSITE #AMPEGGIO 3UBASIO ,OCALITÌ 3PORTELLA ROBERTOROSCINI TISCALINETIT 4HE NEAREST CAMPSITE AT A HEIGHT OF M ON THE SLOPES OF 3UBASIO !PRIL TO EARLY /CT
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!3 3 ) 3 ) !.$ 4 ( % 6! , % / & 3 0 / , % 4/ 3PELLO
"USES STOP AT THE FOOT OF THE TOWN JUST OUTSIDE THE 0ORTA #ONSOLARE ONE OF lVE 2OMAN GATES IN THE !UGUSTAN ERA WALLS THAT STILL MORE OR LESS ENCLOSE 3PELLO 4HE GATE IS IN A SLIGHTLY SORRY STATE WITH AN ANCIENT OLIVE TREE GROWING FROM ITS CRUMBLING UPPER REACHES n A SIXTEENTH CENTURY FRESCO IN THE #OMUNE SHOWS THE TOWER WITH ITS TREE EVEN THEN n BUT IT STILL GIVES SOME IDEA OF THE GLORY THAT WAS 2OME AND RETAINS THREE ORIGINAL STATUES lGURES REMOVED FROM THE TOWNS AMPHITHEATRE THAT LOCAL FOLKLORE CLAIMS DEPICT A FAMILY KILLED BY EATING POISON OUS MUSHROOMS 0ARTS OF THE OLD 2OMAN ROAD ARE ALSO EXPOSED HERE WHILE TO THE LEFT ALONG 6IA 2OMA RANGE SOME WELL PRESERVED STRETCHES OF THE ORIGINAL !UGUSTAN ERA WALLS THEY ARE CONSIDERED SOME OF THE BEST PRESERVED SUCH WALLS IN )TALY 2ECENTLY UNCOVERED JUST WEST OUTSIDE THE OLD TOWN WALLS ARE SOME EXTRAORDINARY MOSAICS PART OF A FOURTH CENTURY VILLA 4HE REMAINS MAY BE EXTEN SIVE WITH FURTHER TREASURES TO BE UNCOVERED BUT AS THEY WERE DISCOVERED DURING THE BUILDING OF A CAR PARK AND THE CAR PARK MAY WELL BE COMPLETED THE FATE OF THE MOSAICS AND THEIR SURROUNDINGS IS UNCERTAIN AT THE TIME OF PUBLICATION )NSIDE THE GATE BEGINS THE MAIN STREET 6IA #ONSOLAREn6IA #AVOUR WHICH BENDS AND CLIMBS STEEPLY IT HAS NO PAVEMENTS SO BEWARE n YOURE FOREVER DODG ING CARS ! COUPLE OF MINUTES WALK YOU MIGHT TAKE THE RUBBER SURFACED ALLEY ON THE LEFT AS A SHORT CUT BRINGS YOU TO THE ODD LITTLE #APPELLA 4EGA ALWAYS OPEN TO VIEW BEHIND GLASS HALF COVERED IN FRESCOES FROM BY A LEADING -ARCHE BASED ARTIST .ICOLÛ !LUNNO 3ANTA -ARIA -AGGIORE
)N 3PELLO HAD SOME TWO THOUSAND INHABITANTS n COMPARED WITH AROUND EIGHT THOUSAND TODAY n AND A STAGGERING ONE HUNDRED CHURCHES OF WHICH WERE DEDICATED TO THE 6IRGIN /NE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT OF THESE WAS 3ANTA -ARIA -AGGIORE DAILY AMnPM nPM WINTER CLOSES PM FREE WHICH CELEBRATED BOTH THE 6IRGINS "IRTH 3EPT AND THE !SSUMPTION !UG THE LATTER ALLUDED TO IN THE INSCRIPTION !SSUMPTA %ST BELOW THE -ADONNA IN THE NICHE ON THE MAIN PORTAL "EGUN IN THE TWELFTH CENTURY THE CHURCH WAS REMODELLED lVE CENTURIES LATER TO DULL EFFECT THE MOST OBVIOUS ALTERATIONS BEING THE FACADE WHICH WAS SHIFTED FORWARD A FULL NINE METRES AND THE MUNDANE "AROQUE BOTCH VISITED ON THE
!3 3 ) 3 ) !.$ 4 ( % 6! , % / & 3 0 / , % 4/
INTERIOR 4HE FACADE DID KEEP PARTS OF THE ORIGINAL 2OMANESQUE PORTAL HOWEVER SOME OF WHOSE lNE CARVING HAS BEEN ATTRIBUTED TO "INELLO AND 2IDOLFO THE MYSTERIOUS CRAFTSMEN RESPONSIBLE FOR THE STRANGE SCULPTURES ON THE CHURCHES OF NEARBY "EVAGNA SEE P 4HE TWO COLUMNS AT THE BASE OF THE CAMPANILE ARE FROM AN EARLIER 2OMAN BUILDING 3PELLOS MAIN STREET FOLLOWS EXACTLY THE COURSE OF THE OLD 2OMAN ROAD AND A 2OMAN AQUEDUCT RUNS BENEATH IT TO THIS DAY )NSIDE IS AN OUTSTANDING 2OMAN STOUP FOR HOLY WATER FASHIONED FROM THE ALTAR TOMB !$ OF 'AIUS 4ITIENUS &LACCUS A LEADING LIGHT OF (ISPELLUMS MOST IMPORTANT FAMILY 4HE DEAD MAN IS SHOWN ON HORSEBACK ABOVE AN INSCRIP TION WHILE IN THE LOWER PART OF THE STOUP YOU CAN STILL MAKE OUT A LITTLE HOLLOW ONCE USED TO STORE HIS ASHES !NOTHER SIMILAR TOMB n THAT OF A YOUNG WOMAN n WAS MOVED FROM THE CHURCH IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY AND NOW SUPPORTS THE CROSS ON TOP OF THE CAMPANILE -ORE FASCINATING ARE THE PAINTINGS BY 0INTURICCHIO COVERING THE #APPELLA "AGLIONI ON THE LEFT AS YOU ENTER VAST FRESCOES WHICH RANK WITH THE ARTISTS MAS TERPIECES IN 3IENAS ,IBRERIA 0ICCOLOMINI SEE P AND 2OMES 3ISTINE #HAPEL AND "ORGIA APARTMENTS 4HE PAINTINGS WERE EXECUTED IN AND GLOW FROM RESTORATION WORK IN THAT BROUGHT OUT THE COLOURFULLY DECORATIVE DETAIL TO STUNNING EFFECT 3ADLY THEY ARE BEHIND GLASS YOU NEED COINS TO ILLUMINATE THEM 4HE BARRIER ALSO MEANS YOU CANT GET A PROPER LOOK AT THE CHAPELS CERAMIC PAVEMENT A FADED TESTIMONY TO THE SKILL OF $ERUTAS MEDIEVAL CRAFTS MEN SEE P 4HE THREE PANELS ARE READ FROM LEFT TO RIGHT THE CEILING VAULTS DEPICT THE &OUR 3IBYLS 4HE lRST FRESCO FEATURES THE !NNUNCIATION WITH THE 6IRGIN HAVING JUST
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READ THE PROPHETIC TEXT FROM THE "IBLE OPEN IN FRONT OF HER "ELOW AND TO THE RIGHT THE OBVIOUS HANGING PAINTING IS A SELF PORTRAIT OF 0INTURICCHIO AND UNDER IT A PLAQUE WITH HIS NAME FROM WHICH DANGLE BRUSHES STYLUSES AND OTHER TOOLS OF THE PAINTERS TRADE 4HE CENTRAL FRESCO ON THE REAR WALL DEPICTS THE !DORATION OF THE #HILD WITH THE SHEPHERDS SHOWN LEFT OF #HRIST AND THE -AGI BEHIND THEM TO THE LEFT "EHIND THE -AGI ONE OF THE GROUP OF ARMED MEN AMIDST THE ROCKS BEARS AN ANACHRONISTIC DETAIL A SHIELD WITH THE "AGLIONI COAT OF ARMS THE CHAPEL WAS COMMISSIONED BY A PRELATE BELONGING TO THE INFAMOUS FAMILY IN 4HE PAINTING IS ALSO REMARKABLE FOR ITS PREPONDERANCE OF SYMBOLS IN PARTICULAR THE CROSS A PRElGURATION OF #HRISTS #RUCIlXION THE PEACOCK SYMBOLIZING ETERNAL LIFE AND THE INCORRUPTIBILITY OF THE mESH AND THE mASK OF WINE AND BREAD IN THE BOTTOM RIGHT HAND CORNER AN ALLUSION TO THE %UCHARIST 4HE lNAL FRESCO THE $ISPUTATION IN THE 4EMPLE HAS RATHER MORE POINTS OF INCIDENTAL NARRATIVE AND DECORATIVE INTEREST INCLUDING A PORTRAIT OF 4ROILO "AGLIONI THE MAN WHO COM MISSIONED THE PAINTINGS WHO IS SHOWN IN HIS BLACK PRIORAL HABIT AT THE EXTREME LEFT !LONGSIDE HIM STANDS HIS TREASURER EASILY IDENTIlED BY HIS BAG OF MONEY ANOTHER PICTORIAL REMINDER OF WHO PAID FOR THE FRESCOES /VER ON THE EXTREME RIGHT THE GRISLY FEATURED OLD WOMAN IS AN ALLUSION TO THE h/LD 7OMAN OF THE #ROSSv THE CENTRAL CHARACTER IN ONE OF 3PELLOS SEMINAL MEDIEVAL LEGENDS 4HE HARRIDAN IS SAID TO HAVE TRIED TO FAN THE MUTUAL HATRED OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE UPPER AND LOWER TOWN BUT WAS VAPORIZED BEFORE ANY BLOODY ENCOUNTER COULD TAKE PLACE BY THE MIRACULOUS APPARITION OF A CROSS ABOVE THE TOWN HALL IN 0INTURICCHIO ALSO MAKES AN APPEARANCE HIS NAME BEING PICKED OUT ON THE NOTE HELD BY THE CHARACTER IN THE PROMINENT WHITE HEADGEAR IN THE GROUP TO THE RIGHT OF #HRIST 4HE ARTISTS HAND CAN ALSO BE SEEN IN THE DISTURBING DETAILS IN THE BACKGROUND THE DISABLED BEGGARS IN FRONT OF THE TEMPLE AND MORE MACABRE THE TINY lGURE DANGLING FROM A GIBBET ON THE HILL TOP TO THE RIGHT OF THE LARGE PALM TREE %LSEWHERE IN THE CHURCH ARE A COUPLE OF FURTHER PAINTINGS BY 0INTURICCHIO IN THE #APPELLA DEL 3ACRAMENTO THE CHAPEL TO THE LEFT OF THE APSE IS A FAINTLY ETCHED ANGEL HOLDING A PLAQUE ABOVE A LITTLE LAVABO THE INSCRIPTION n ,AVAMINI ET MUNDI ESTOTE n MEANS h7ASH YOURSELF AND BE PUREv "EYOND THAT IN THE CANONS ROOM IS AN OVERPAINTED BUT BEAUTIFULLY LYRICAL -ADONNA AND #HILD 4WO GOOD LATE PAINTINGS BY 0ERUGINO ADORN THE TWO PILLARS mANKING THE APSE ONE A 0IETÌ THE OTHER A -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 33 "LAISE AND #ATHERINE 4HE ONLY OTHER WORTHWHILE PAINTING IS A SINGLE TANTALIZING FRESCO OF THE !GONY IN THE 'ARDEN TO THE LEFT OF THE LARGE WINDOW AT THE REAR OF THE APSE )TS THE WORK OF #OLA 0ETRUCCIOLI AN ACCOMPLISHED EARLY 5MBRIAN PAINTER AND REPRESENTS ALL THAT REMAINS OF A COMPLETE CYCLE SACRIlCED TO THE APSES BLANKET OF WHITEWASH IN THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY 4HE 0INACOTECA #IVICA
3PELLOS 0INACOTECA #IVICA !PRILn3EPT 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM /CTn-ARCH 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM + IS SITUATED IN THE OLD 0ALAZZO DEI #ANONCINI ALMOST BESIDE 3ANTA -ARIA -AGGIORE )T REOPENED IN LATE AFTER LONG TERM RESTORATION BUT PARTS OF THE COLLECTION ARE STILL TO BE EXHIBITED AND THE GALLERY IS LIKELY TO REMAIN IN A STATE OF mUX FOR SOME TIME 4HE BEST PIECES INCLUDE THE WONDERFUL POLYCHROME WOODEN STATUE -ADONNA AND #HILD AN 5MBRIAN WORK DATING FROM THE END OF THE TWELFTH CENTURY !LSO OUTSTANDING IS AN EXTRAORDINARY STATUE OF THE CRUCIlED #HRIST ITS ARMS HINGED TO RESEMBLE A CRUDE MARIONETTE 3UCH STATUES NOW EXTREMELY RARE WERE USED BY RELIGIOUS CONFRATERNITIES DURING (OLY 7EEK CELEBRATIONS ITS ARMS WOULD BE OPENED OR FOLDED ACCORDING TO THE PARTICULAR RELIGIOUS CELEBRATION
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4HE GALLERYS VAGUELY OPEN PLAN ARRANGEMENT MAKES IT HARD TO lGURE OUT WHICH ROOM IS WHICH BUT EVERYTHING IS WELL LABELLED MAKING IT EASY FOR EXAMPLE TO TRACK DOWN TREASURES SUCH AS THE SUPERB ENAMELLED CROSS 4HE CENTRAL lGURE DEPICTS THE 6IRGIN .EARBY THE LITTLE DIPTYCH BY #OLA 0ETRUCCIOLI DESIGNED AS A PORTABLE PREACHING AID FOR ITINERANT MONKS SHOWS THE #RUCIlXION ON ONE PANEL AND THE #ORONATION OF THE 6IRGIN ON THE OTHER 4WO OF THE GALLERYS HIGHLIGHTS ARE A PAIR OF EARLY lFTEENTH CENTURY PANELS OF A TRIPTYCH BY THE ANONYMOUS -AESTRO DELL!SSUNTA DI !MELIA 3T *OHN AND THE 0ROPHET )SAIAH AND *OHN THE "APTIST AND .ICHO LAS OF "ARI 4HE ORIGINAL TRIPTYCH WAS STOLEN IN AND THE MAIN CENTRAL PANEL n A -ADONNA AND #HILD n HAS NEVER BEEN RECOVERED ! SIMILAR FATE BEFELL ANOTHER -ADONNA AND #HILD THE CENTRAL PART OF A TRIPTYCH ATTRIBUTED TO 0INTURICCHIO STOLEN IN THE SAME YEAR FROM 3ANTA -ARIA -AGGIORE BUT HERE THE STORY IS HAPPIER FOR THE WORK WAS RECOVERED IN AND IS NOW EXHIBITED IN THE GALLERY %VEN THIS HAPPY RETURNEE IS OVERSHADOWED BY A STILL BETTER WORK THE SUPERBLY RESTORED #RUCIlXION 6IRGIN AND 3AINTS BY .ICOLÛ !LUNNO .EARBY IS A DOUBLE SIDED GONFALONE OR BANNER PROBABLY PAINTED BY ONE OF !LUNNOS ASSISTANTS /NE SIDE DEPICTS THE -ADONNA DELLA -ISERICORDIA SHIELDING 3PELLOS CITIZENS BENEATH HER CLOAK THE OTHER THE -IRACLE OF THE #ROSS OF 3PELLO THE EVENT ALLUDED TO IN 0INTURICCHIOS FRESCO OF THE $ISPUTATION IN THE 4EMPLE IN 3ANTA -ARIA -AGGIORE %LSEWHERE LOOK OUT FOR THE DOUBLE SIDED GONFALONE BY ,ORENZO $ONI DEPICTING A PARTICULARLY GRAPHIC -ARTYRDOM OF 3T "ARBARA ON ONE SIDE AND THE MEMBERS OF 3PELLOS #ONFRATERNITY OF 3T "ARBARA ON THE OTHER !LSO PAUSE IN FRONT OF THE lVE CANVASES BY -ARCANTONIO 'RECCHI ESPECIALLY THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 3T &ELIX AND !NDREA #ACCIOLI 3T &ELIX AN EARLY BISHOP OF 3PELLO IS ONE OF THE TOWNS PATRON SAINTS 4HE PAINTINGS CHARM LIES IN THE PERFECTLY REALIZED LITTLE PORTRAIT OF 3PELLO HELD BY THE TWO PROTAGONISTS THE TOWN LOOKING MUCH THE SAME AS IT DOES TODAY 4HE GALLERY CONCLUDES WITH NINETEENTH CENTURY WORKS BY "ENVENUTO #RISPOLDI AN ECCENTIC LOCAL DANDY 3ANT!NDREA AND AROUND
! SHORT DISTANCE UPHILL FROM THE 0INACOTECA LIES 3ANT!NDREA ITS SIMPLE THIR TEENTH CENTURY FACADE HIDING A DARKLY ATMOSPHERIC INTERIOR -OST SURFACES ARE INEXPERTLY PAINTED THOUGH THE OVERALL EFFECT IS SUPERB AND THERE IS ANOTHER OUT STANDING 0INTURICCHIO n A -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 3AINTS IN THE RIGHT TRANSEPT EXECUTED WITH %USEBIO DI 3AN 'IORGIO /N THE EXTREME RIGHT IS THE lGURE OF 3T ,AWRENCE WHO IS SHOWN HOLDING THE BLACK GRIDDLE ON WHICH HE WAS ROASTED TO DEATH ! PANEL DEPICTING THIS MARTYRDOM IN DETAIL IS SHOWN AS A LUMINOUS SQUARE PICTURE RATHER ODDLY STITCHED INTO THE LOWER HALF OF HIS ROBES !LSO LOOK OUT FOR THE TWO SMALL PANELS CLOSE TO ONE OF THE SAINTS 'IOVANNINO WHERE THE PAINTER HAS PROUDLY TRANSCRIBED A LETTER SENT TO HIM BY 'ENTILE "AGLIONI THAT FAMILY AGAIN THE BISHOP OF /RVIETO 4HE VAST EYE CATCHING #RUCIlX HANGING ABOVE THE ALTAR IS BY AN UNKNOWN FOURTEENTH CENTURY 5MBRIAN FOLLOWER OF 'IOTTO 4HE SPREAD OF IMPRESSIVE LOOKING DECORATION IN THE APSE AND ELSEWHERE DATES FROM THE NINETEENTH CENTURY AND MAY ITS THOUGHT CONCEAL ALL SORTS OF HIDDEN TREASURES 7HEN THE LARGE ALTAR IN THE LEFT TRANSEPT WAS REMOVED FOR CLEANING AREAS OF IMPORTANT EARLY FRESCO WERE REVEALED BEHIND IT MUCH OF WHICH IT APPEARS HAD BEEN WHITEWASHED FOLLOWING SOME LONG FORGOTTEN PLAGUE EPI DEMIC 3HORTAGE OF FUNDS HAS AS YET PREVENTED ANY FURTHER INVESTIGATION )N THE LEFT TRANSEPT IS ANOTHER IN 5MBRIAS LONG LINE OF EERILY PRESERVED MUMMIES SEE P FOR MORE ON THESE THIS ONE BEING THE BODY OF THE 3PELLO BORN BEATIlC !NDREA #ACCIOLI n ONE OF THE EARLIEST FOLLOWERS OF 3T &RANCIS ! DIVERSION FROM 3ANT!NDREA ALONG NEARBY 6IA 4ORRI DI 0ROPERZIO LEFT OFF 6IA #AVOUR BRINGS YOU TO THE BEST REMNANT OF 2OMAN 3PELLO THE PERFECTLY
PRESERVED IF SLIGHTLY FORLORN 0ORTA 6ENERE POSSIBLY NAMED AFTER A LONG VANISHED TEMPLE TO 6ENUS #ONSTANTINE IS SAID TO HAVE BUILT ONE OF 5MBRIAS LARGEST SHRINES TO THE GODDESS IN THE VICINITY 4HE IMPOSING TWIN TOWERS mANKING THE GATE MIGHT BE 2OMAN OR MEDIEVAL NO ONES SURE 4HE REST OF THE TOWN
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&ARTHER UP 6IA #AVOUR BEYOND 3ANT!NDREA THE MAIN 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUB BLICA IS PART GROTESQUE TWENTIETH CENTURY PART MEDIEVAL WITH ITS ARCHED 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE BOASTING A COUPLE OF FOURTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES BY LOCAL PAINTERS &ARTHER UP AGAIN 3AN ,ORENZO RATES AS ONE OF 5MBRIAS MORE SUCCESSFUL "AROQUE CONVERSIONS ! MONGREL OF A CHURCH IT HAD A SUCCESSION OF ARCHITECTS WHO LEFT A VARIETY OF DECORATIVE EFFECTS SOME LAUGHABLE LIKE THE OBVI OUSLY FAKE MARBLES OTHERS MORE PERSUASIVE n AS WITH THE BALDACCHINO A BRONZE CANOPY COPIED FROM "ERNINIS PIECE FOR 3T 0ETERS IN 2OME 4HE MOST ARRESTING SIGHT IS THE MINUTELY REALISTIC STATUE OF 3T 0ETER THE -ARTYR MIDWAY DOWN THE WEST WALL COMPLETE WITH TRICKLE OF BLOOD FROM THE CLEAVER DELICATELY PLANTED IN HIS HEAD !T THE TOP OF 3PELLOS MAIN STREET YOULL PROBABLY BE HEARTILY SICK OF HAVING TO DODGE CARS BUT HERE YOU CAN START TO EXPLORE THE ALLEYS AND BACKSTREETS THAT PROVIDE THE TOWNS TYPICAL 5MBRIAN CHARM 6IEWS FROM THE EAST SIDE OF TOWN ARE ESPECIALLY GOOD WITH LOVELY PANORAMAS OVER THE BUCOLIC COUNTRYSIDE BELOW -ONTE 3UBASIO 4HE ARCH ALMOST OPPOSITE 3AN ,ORENZO LEADS TO THE HIGHEST POINT OF THE TOWN OCCUPIED BY THE BELVEDERE AND 2OCCA n THE LATTER GIVING THE ONLY VIEW YOU NEED OF THE OVERGROWN REMAINS OF THE lRST CENTURY 2OMAN AMPHITHEATRE TO THE WEST "EYOND THE WALLS NEAR THE AMPHITHEATRE IS THE HALF COLLAPSED TWELFTH CENTURY CHURCH OF 3AN #LAUDIO WHICH HAS A STRANGE 2OMANESQUE ASYMMETRY INSIDE AND OUT )T WAS RAISED FROM THE ASHES OF AN OLD 2OMAN BUILDING ON THE SAME SITE ! TEN MINUTE WALK BEYOND n ALSO ACCESSIBLE VIA A COUNTRY LANE WHICH DROPS DOWN FROM 0IAZZA 6ALLEGLORIA n IS THE PROMINENT BUT LITTLE KNOWN 6ILLA &IDELIA WITH A BEAUTIFUL GARDEN AND THE MISCELLANEOUS 3TRAKA #OPPA PRIVATE COLLECTION OF PAINTINGS SCULPTURES OLD FURNITURE AND COSTUMES TOGETHER WITH DISPLAYS ON THE &UTURISTS HOURS AND PRICES VARY ACCORDING TO THE TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS IN PROGRESS
! WALK OVER -ONTE 3UBASIO ! STIFF BUT WONDERFUL WALK STARTS BEYOND THE 2OCCA AT THE 0ORTA -ONTANARA 4HIS ROUTE IS WORTH CLIMBING JUST FOR TWENTY MINUTES OR SO IN ORDER TO GET SUPERB VIEWS OF 3PELLO AND THE 6ALE OF 3POLETO THOUGH IF YOU FOLLOW IT THE WHOLE WAY YOU CAN REACH !SSISI ALLOW A FULL DAY FOR THIS VIA THE SUMMIT OF -ONTE 3UBASIO ANDOR THE %REMO DELLE #ARCERI 4O lND THE ROUTE TAKE THE SECOND RIGHT TURN AFTER THE 0ORTA -ONTANARA SIGNPOSTED FOR #OLLEPINO WALK PAST THE OLIVE OIL WORKS ON THE RIGHT AND AFTER M TAKE THE INITIALLY SURFACED TRACK LEFT AT THE FOUNTAIN 4HE PATH IS MARKED BY THE #LUB !LPINO )TALIANO LOOK FOR TRAIL NO AND RED SPOT MARKINGS WHICH RUN ALL THE WAY TO !SSISI $ETAILED WALKING MAPS OF THE AREA n AND ITS ADVISABLE TO HAVE THEM n ARE USUALLY AVAILABLE FROM THE NEWSAGENTS TO THE RIGHT OF 3AN ,ORENZO IN 3PELLO 9OU CAN DRIVE ON THE PART GRAVEL ROAD FROM THE NORTHERN END OF 3PELLO OVER -ONTE 3UBASIO TO !SSISI SIGNED h-ONTE 3UBASIOv AND ,A "AITA THE LATTER A PANORAMIC BAR RESTAU RANT ON A SIDE ROAD HALFWAY UP BE CERTAIN NOT TO MISS THE LEFT TURN AFTER A COUPLE OF KILOMETRES OR YOULL END UP IN #OLLEPINO AND !RMENZANO 4HE VIEWS ARE SUPERLATIVE AND THERE ARE SENSATIONAL SPREADS OF ORCHIDS AND NARCISSI IN LATE -AY AND EARLY *UNE /NCE ON THE TOP ABOVE THE TREES YOU CAN WALK PRETTY MUCH AT WILL
%ATING AND DRINKING
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! GOOD EATING OPTION IS ,A #ANTINA 6IA #AVOUR CLOSED 7ED A FRIENDLY LOCAL PLACE SET IN A VAULTED MEDIEVAL TOWN HOUSE SERVING PLENTY OF REGIONAL SPECIALITIES AND WONDERFUL FRESH PASTA IT SUFFERS FROM BEING RATHER BIG AND UNATMOSPHERIC ON QUIET NIGHTS 3PELLOS BEST RESTAURANT IS THE mASHIER AND SLIGHTLY MORE EXPENSIVE )L -OLINO 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI n CLOSED 4UES WITH AN EQUALLY PLEASING MEDIEVAL SETTING AND SOME GOOD FOOD n AS LONG YOU AVOID THE OCCASIONAL UNFORTUNATE PRETENSION TO )TALIAN NOUVELLE CUISINE )L #ACCIATORE 6IA 'IULIA CLOSED -ON HAS MIDDLING FOOD AND SERVICE BUT ONE OF THE GREAT 5MBRIAN TERRACES FOR SUMMER EATING 4HE CHEAPER 0INTURICCHIO CLOSED 4UES ON THE LEFT AT THE TOP OF THE MAIN STREET JUST PAST 3AN ,ORENZO IS A lRST RATE TRATTORIA STAND BY #HEAPEST OF ALL AND GOOD FOR LUNCH OR A LIGHT MEAL IS THE (OSTERIA DE $ADÌ A SMALL PLACE WITH SIX SHARED TABLES AT 6IA #AVOUR CLOSED -ON "AR 'IARDINO 6IA 'ARIBALDI HAS A HUGE GRASSY TERRACE AND TABLES TO THE REAR A WONDERFUL SPOT TO SOAK UP THE SCENERY 4HE "AR 'ELATERIA ON 6IA 2OMA OPPOSITE THE 0ORTA 3ANTA -ARIA -AGGIORE SERVES UP ICE CREAM AND SORBETS JUST A WAFER AWAY FROM PERFECTION )F YOURE BUYING PICNIC SUPPLIES MAKE TRACKS FOR THE LOVELY OLD FASHIONED 3CARPONI BAK ERY OPPOSITE THE 4EATRO HOTEL AT 6IA 'IULIA 9OU CAN BUY WINE CHEESE HAM AND THE LIKE AT NUMEROUS TOURIST ORIENTED FOOD SHOPS AROUND TOWN ONE OF THE BEST OF THE MORE USEFUL STORES IS (ISPELLUM 6IA #AVOUR
&OLIGNO AND AROUND /N PUBLIC TRANSPORT SOONER OR LATER YOURE LIKELY TO lND YOURSELF PASSING THROUGH &/,)'./ A NODAL POINT FOR TRAINS AND BUSES !LTHOUGH THIS WAS THE PLACE WHERE IN THE lRST BOOK WAS PRINTED IN )TALIAN n THREE HUN DRED COPIES OF $ANTES $IVINE #OMEDY n TODAY &OLIGNO IS A LARGELY MODERN PLACE RINGED WITH FACTORIES AND CONCRETE SPRAWL ITS STAR TURNS BOMBED DURING 7ORLD 7AR )) 7HAT REMAINS IS A NOT UNPLEASANT PROVINCIAL TOWN THOUGH WITH NOTHING THAT WOULD MERIT A SPECIAL VISIT AND CERTAINLY NOTHING TO TEMPT YOU AWAY FROM 3PELLO "EVAGNA OR -ONTEFALCO 4HE TOWN WAS PARTICULARLY BADLY HIT BY THE EARTHQUAKES n THE DRAMATIC COLLAPSE OF THE 4ORRE #OMUNALE WAS BROADCAST WORLDWIDE n AND THE RESIDUE OF ITS MEDIEVAL HERITAGE IS CONVENIENTLY CONCENTRATED IN THE CENTRAL 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA 4HE $UOMO IS THE MAIN EYE CATCHER THE TWELFTH CENTURY 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE OPPOSITE HAVING BEEN RUINED BY A .EOCLASSICAL FACADE AT THE BEGINNING OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY 5NUSUALLY THE CHURCH BOASTS TWO FACADES THE SOUTH FRONTAGE CONTAINING ONE OF THE MOST IMPRESSIVE PORTALS IN THE REGION A RIOT OF CARVING FULL OF ZODIAC SIGNS INTRICATE PATTERNING AND BIZARRE ANIMALS AS WELL AS A LIKENESS OF &REDERICK )) ON THE LEFT ONE OF ONLY TWO IN )TALY AND A -USLIM STAR AND CRESCENT NEAR THE APEX OF THE ARCH 4HE MOSAICS OF THE OTHER FACADE ARE A NINETEENTH CENTURY AFTERTHOUGHT )NSIDE A PANEL BY .ICOLÛ !LUNNO IN THE SACRISTY IS THE ONLY FEATURE WORTH SEEKING OUT !T THE WESTERN END OF THE PIAZZA IS THE 0ALAZZO 4RINCI n THE MUCH ALTERED HOME OF THE 4RINCI &OLIGNOS MEDIEVAL BIG SHOTS AND BY FAR THE BEST REASON TO VISIT THE TOWN ,ONG TERM RESTORATION HAS REVIVED A lNE COURT YARD PALACE FRESCOES AND PAINTED STAIRCASE AND A SMALL ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM 4UESn3UN AMnPM + AND LINKED 0INACOTECA #OMUNALE SAME HOURS
AND TICKET 4HE KEY SIGHT IS A lNE FRESCO CYCLE BY 'ENTILE DA &ABRIANO WHOSE NON RELIGIOUS THEMES INCLUDE THE STORY OF THE FOUNDING OF 2OME THE 3EVEN ,IBERAL !RTS THE 3EVEN !GES OF -AN THE HOURS OF THE DAY THE CYCLE OF THE PLAN ETS AND MORE /THER HIGH POINTS INCLUDE A FRESCOED CHAPEL BY /TTAVIANO .ELLI AND AN !NNUNCIATION ATTRIBUTED TO "ENOZZO 'OZZOLI 4HE ONLY OTHER MONUMENT WHICH HINTS AT &OLIGNOS FORMER GLORY IS 3ANTA -ARIA )NFRAPORTAS A CHURCH OF PAGAN ORIGINS IN WHICH 3T 0ETER IS SAID TO HAVE CELEBRATED -ASS 4HE OLDEST PART OF THE CURRENT EIGHTH CENTURY CHURCH IS THE #APPELLA DELL!SSUNTA OFF THE LEFT NAVE THE "YZANTINE MURAL BEHIND ITS ALTAR IS THE TOWNS MOST PRECIOUS PIECE OF ART
0RACTICALITIES
(OTELS )TALIA 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI WWWHOTELITALIAFOLIGNOCOM ! FUNCTIONAL THREE STAR PLACE WITH ROOMS VERY CENTRALLY LOCATED IMMEDIATELY SOUTH OF 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA 0IERANTONI 6IA 0IERANTONI FOLHOSTEL TISCALINETIT ! BIG HOSTEL WITH AROUND TWO HUNDRED BEDS ARRANGED IN ROOMS DORM BED +n 3UMMIT (OTEL 6IALE #ESARE "ATTISTI WWWFOLIGNOHOTELSCOM 4HREE STAR ON A BUSY JUNCTION WITH 0IAZZALE !LUNNO AND
THUS CONVENIENT FOR THE TRAIN STATION HAS ROOMS SO THERES USUALLY SOMETHING AVAILABLE 6ALENTINI 6IA &LAVIO /TTAVIANI ! FAMILY RUN TWENTY ROOM TWO STAR JUST NORTH OF THE TRAIN STATION n SURPRISINGLY PLEASANT GIVEN ITS POSITION 6ILLA 2ONCALLI 6IALE 2OMA "EST OF THE UPMARKET THREE STAR PLACES A SMART SEVENTEENTH CENTURY VILLA WITH NICE GARDEN AND POOL AND &OLIGNOS TOP GOURMET RESTAURANT
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!3 3 ) 3 ) !.$ 4 ( % 6! , % / & 3 0 / , % 4/ &OLIGNO AND AROUND
&OR &OLIGNOS TOURIST OFlCE n AT #ORSO #AVOUR !PRILn/CT -ONn3AT AMnPM n 3UN AMnPM .OVn&EB -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM INFO IATFOLIGNOPGIT n AND BUS STATION 0ORTA 2OMANA FOLLOW 6IALE -EZZETTI WEST FROM THE TRAIN STATION TO 0IAZZALE !LUNNO 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA IS A SHORT WALK ALONG #ORSO #AVOUR FROM HERE 4O GET TO -ONTEFALCO THERE ARE INFREQUENT BUSES OR YOU COULD TRY HITCHING FROM THE 0ORTA 4ODI AROUND 6IA . 3AURO FROM 0IAZZALE !LUNNO )F HOTELS IN !SSISI AND 3PELLO ARE FULL YOU MAY HAVE CAUSE TO TRY &OLIGNOS ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS WHICH ARE INEXPENSIVE BUT GENERALLY NOT TERRIBLY INSPIRING
%ATING AND DRINKING
#HEAP PIZZERIE ARE NUMEROUS &OR COFFEE DRINKS SNACKS AND LIGHT MEALS ,A "OTTEGA "ARBANERA 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA CLOSED -ON SERVES TEMPTING LOCAL DISHES IN CHARMING SURROUNDINGS n A FORMER DROGHERIA WITH LOVELY OLD COUNTER %VEN BETTER AND POPULAR WITH LOCALS IS THE SMALL THIRTY SEAT )L "ACCO &ELICE 6IA 'ARIBALDI n CLOSED -ON SET IN A LIBRARY TYPE SALON FULL OF OLD BOTTLES AND BOOKS ON FOOD AND WINE THE ATTENTION TO DETAIL AND FOCUS ON GOOD INGREDIENTS IS EXCELLENT CO OWNER 4IZIANA HAS ACCUMULATED DIFFERENT TYPES OF TOMATO ALONE FOR USE IN SALADS AND SAUCES %QUALLY GOOD n AND WITH A SIMILAR APPROACH n IS THE (OSTARIA 3PARAFUCILE 0IAZZETTA $UOMO CLOSED 7ED /CT LUNCHTIMES IN WINTER WITH A GREAT SELEC TION OF WINES AND SIMPLE INEXPENSIVE LOCAL DISHES SERVED OUTSIDE IN SUMMER
%AST OF &OLIGNO 6ISIBLE FROM AFAR FROM THE 6ALE OF 3POLETO THE "ENEDICTINE !BBAZIA DI 3AS SOVIVO INTERIOR CLOSED FOR RESTORATION KM EAST OF &OLIGNO IS ONE OF THE OLDEST
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\ "EVAGNA
MONASTERIES IN 5MBRIA DATING FROM 3ET IN WOODED COUNTRYSIDE IT ALSO CLAIMS THE REGIONS lNEST MEDIEVAL CLOISTERS WITH VARIEGATED COLUMNS AND ARCHES ALL DECORATED WITH MOSAICS AND COLOURED MARBLES 4HE CHURCH IS DULL SAVE FOR ITS ELEVENTH CENTURY CRYPT RECENTLY RESTORED AND NOW OPEN n ALONG WITH THE CLOISTER AND LOGGIA DAILY AMnPM FREE 4O THE NORTH THE 33 ROAD TO #AMERINO THREADS THROUGH THE BEAUTIFUL -ENOTRE VALLEY A REGION OF SMALL LOST VILLAGES AND VIRGIN HILL COUNTRY 4O EXPLORE PROPERLY YOULL NEED TRANSPORT OR THE WILL TO HIKE PLUS THE INVALUABLE +OMPASS h!SSISI #AMERINOv MAP 0!,% KM EAST OF &OLIGNO IS THE lRST VILLAGE YOULL COME TO IN THE -ENOTRE )T HAS A CASTLE AND A STALACTITE CRAMMED CAVE THE 'ROTTA DI 0ALE 0ATHS COVER THE KM TO THE SUMMIT OF THE CRAGGY 3ASSO DI 0ALE M ALSO ACCESSIBLE FROM 3ANTA ,UCIA KM ON FROM 0ALE 4HE ONLY PLACE OF ANY REAL SIZE IN THE VALLEY IS #/,&)/2)4/ KM FROM &OLIGNO IN AN AREA OF 5MBRIA THAT VERY FEW TOURISTS SEE /NCE AN IMPORTANT )RON !GE SITE CONTROLLING ONE OF THE LOWEST !PENNINE PASSES INTO THE -ARCHE #OLlORITO SITS AT THE HEART OF SOME EXTRAORDINARY COUNTRYSIDE MOSTLY MARSH AND UPLAND PLAIN n RATHER LIKE THE 6ALNERINA n SURROUNDED BY lELDS OF GRASS AND MOUNTAIN PEAKS 'REEN AND COOL IN SUMMER THE TOWN HAS BECOME SOMETHING OF A VACA TION RETREAT FOR LOCALS AND IS WELL SERVED BY HOTELS INCLUDING THE THREE STAR 6ILLA &IORITA 6IA DEL ,AGO WWWHOTELVILLAlORITACOM AND THE SMALL TWO STAR 6ALICO 6IA #ASETTE DI #UPIGLIOLO WWW VALICOIT
"EVAGNA "%6!'.! SHADOWED BY THE -ARTANI HILLS KM SOUTHWEST OF &OLIGNO IS EVEN MORE SERENE AND HANDSOME A BACKWATER THAN 3PELLO WITH A WINDSWEPT CENTRAL PIAZZA OF AUSTERE PERFECTION AND TWO OF 5MBRIAS lNEST 2OMANESQUE CHURCHES !N 5MBRIAN AND THEN AN %TRUSCAN SETTLEMENT IT BECAME -EVANIA UNDER THE 2OMANS AND A STAGING POST ON THE 6IA &LAMINIA BUILT IN "# n NOW THE #ORSO -ATTEOTTI WHICH BISECTS THE TOWN )TS DECLINE DATES FROM THE BUILDING OF A NEW SPUR TO THE &LAMINIA lVE CENTURIES LATER A ROAD THAT WAS ROUTED THROUGH 4ERNI AND 3POLETO RATHER THAN "EVAGNA !FTER THE 2OMAN ERA IT WAS SACKED BY "ARBAROSSA &REDERICK )) &OLIGNOS 4RINCI FAMILY AND INEVITABLY 0ERUGIAS "AGLI ONI 4ODAY IT HAS SCARCELY SPREAD BEYOND ITS MEDIEVAL WALLS REMAINING MIRACU LOUSLY UNSCARRED BY THE URBAN BLIGHT OF MOST NEARBY HILL TOWNS
4HE 4OWN "EVAGNAS BACKSTREETS SOONER OR LATER CONVERGE ON THE PEDESTRIANIZED MAIN SQUARE 0IAZZA 3ILVESTRI BROAD AND OPEN AFTER ITS SHADOWED SURROUNDINGS %VERY MEMBER OF THIS UNIMPROVABLE ARRANGEMENT IS THOROUGHLY MEDIEVAL WITH THE SOLE EXCEPTION OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY FOUNTAIN AND EVEN THAT BLENDS IN PERFECTLY 4WO CHURCHES FACE EACH OTHER ACROSS THE SQUARE BOTH UNTOUCHED AND CREAKING WITH AGE 4HE SMALLER DECONSECRATED 3AN 3ILVESTRO IS A MAGNIlCENT SQUAT EXAMPLE OF EARLY 5MBRIAN 2OMANESQUE ITS EXTERIOR BEARS A PLAQUE WITH THE DATE OF CONSTRUCTION n n AND THE NAME OF THE BUILDER "INELLO WHO WAS ALSO RESPONSIBLE FOR 3AN -ICHELE OPPOSITE BUT OF WHOM NOTHING ELSE IS KNOWN EXCEPT FOR HIS WORK ON 3PELLOS 3ANTA -ARIA -AGGIORE SEE P 0IECES OF 2OMAN REMAINS ARE WOVEN INTO THE FACADE WHOSE UPPER HALF IS FACED IN PINK 3UBASIO STONE AND BOASTS THE STUMP OF AN UNlNISHED TOWER 4HE INTERIOR n WHICH TENDS TO BE OPEN WHEN THE REST OF THE TOWN IS SHUT n IS SUPERBLY ANCIENT
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IN LOOK AND FEEL WITH A RAISED PRESBYTERY AND SUNKEN CRYPT ,OOK OUT FOR THE CAPITALS OF THE BLUNT COLUMNS IN THE NAVE WHICH ARE OF AN %GYPTIAN ORDER RATHER THAN $ORIC )ONIC OR #ORINTHIAN AND WERE PERHAPS COPIED FROM A 2OMAN TEM PLE TO DISTANT DEITIES "RITAINS 0RINCE #HARLES HAS BEEN INSTRUMENTAL IN HELPING RAISE FUNDS TO RESTORE THE CHURCH 4HE SECOND CHURCH 3AN -ICHELE APPEARS AND FEELS MORE RECENT PERHAPS OWING TO ITS ROSE WINDOW PUNCHED THROUGH IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY )T IS IN FACT 3AN 3ILVESTROS CONTEMPORARY AND IS BUILT TO A SIMILAR INTERIOR PLAN ITS CAPITALS ARE SIMILARLY ECCENTRIC AS ARE THE MAGNIlCENTLY SURREAL GARGOYLES OVER THE MAIN DOORWAY 4HE SQUARES THIRD COMPONENT IS THE TWELFTH CENTURY 0ALAZZO DEI #ON SOLI DISTINGUISHED BY A BROAD STONE STAIRCASE )NlLTRATED INTO IT IS THE DELIGHTFUL NINETEENTH CENTURY 4EATRO & 4ORTI FULL OF MINUSCULE BOXES AND BALCONIES ONE OF ONLY A FEW SURVIVING EXAMPLES OF THE TINY PROVINCIAL THEATRES THAT ONCE mOURISHED ACROSS )TALY %NQUIRE AT THE -USEO DI "EVAGNA FOR ADMITTANCE "ESIDE IS 33 $OMENICO E 'IACOMO RECTANGULAR AND WORKADAY ITS "AROQUE INTERIOR RELIEVED ONLY BY FRAGMENTS OF FRESCO AND TWO EARLY WOODEN SCULPTURES 4HE CHURCHS PRIME POSITION WAS A GIFT FROM THE COMUNE TO THE $OMINICANS FOR HELP IN REBUILDING THE TOWN AFTER ONE OF ITS SACKINGS "E SURE TO HAVE A LOOK AT THE SMALL CLOISTER REACHED THROUGH THE CHURCH 4HE CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCESCO AT THE TOWNS HIGHEST POINT CLAIMS TO HAVE THE STONE FROM WHICH 3T &RANCIS PREACHED HIS FAMOUS SERMON TO THE BIRDS A DIS COURSE THAT ACCORDING TO THE LOCAL CLAIM OCCURRED ON THE ROAD BETWEEN "EVAGNA AND #ANNARA THE SPOT IS ALSO COMMEMORATED AT !SSISIS %REMO DELLE #ARCERI 2OMAN "EVAGNA
4HE SMALL -USEO DI "EVAGNA *UNE *ULY 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM !UG DAILY AMnPM nPM -ARCHn-AY 3EPT /CT 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM .OVn&EB 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM + #ORSO ' -ATTEOTTI DEVOTED TO THE HISTORY OF THE VILLAGE IS DIVIDED INTO THREE MODEST SECTIONS ARCHEOLOGICAL DISPLAYS ART AND HISTORY AND MAPS LETTERS AND OTHER DOCUMENTS 4HE PAINTINGS ARE EMINENTLY FORGETTABLE BUT THE MEDLEY OF 2OMAN REMAINS n ALL FOUND LOCALLY n IS WORTH A LOOK .ONE THOUGH COMPARES WITH THE IMPRESSIVE BLACK AND WHITE 2OMAN MOSAIC ON THE NORTH SIDE OF 6IA 0ORTA 'UELFA FREE WITH MUSEUM TICKET GUIDED TOURS DEPART FROM MUSEUM FOR MOSAICS AND THEATRE ROUGHLY EVERY TWENTY MINUTES ,AID DOWN IN THE SECOND CENTURY IT FORMED PART OF A BATH COMPLEX n HENCE THE
ASSOCIATIONS OF ITS DOLPHINS LOBSTERS AND OTHER SEA CREA TURES 4O THE SOUTH THE PIL LARS AND HALF COLUMNS OF THE 2OMAN TEMPLE DATE FROM ROUGHLY THE SAME PERIOD *UST TO THE NORTH 0ORTA #AN NARA THE BEST PRESERVED OF THE TOWNS GATES OFFERS ACCESS TO A NICE STRETCH OF THE MEDI EVAL WALLS &ARTHER EAST ON #ORSO ' -ATTEOTTI BE SURE TO EXPLORE 6IA DELL!NlTEATRO WHOSE DIMINUTIVE HOUSES FOL LOW THE LINE OF THE FORMER 2OMAN AMPHITHEATRE AND WHICH GIVES ACCESS TO A SERIES OF LITTLE TUNNELS THAT BUR ROW MYSTERIOUSLY INTO THE OLD UNDER STAGE AREA !3 3 ) 3 ) !.$ 4 ( % 6! , % / & 3 0 / , % 4/
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0RACTICALITIES &ROM &OLIGNO THREE BUSES RUN TO -ONTEFALCO VIA "EV AGNA FOUR BACK FROM -ON TEFALCO DROPPING OFF IN THE 5 7INGED GARGOYLE ON THE PORTAL OF THE LITTLE SQUARE IMMEDIATELY TO CHURCH OF 3AN -ICHELE "EVAGNA THE SOUTH OF 3AN 3ILVESTRI BUY TICKETS FOR ONWARD JOURNEYS IN THE BAR SECRETED AWAY IN THE MEDIEVAL LOGGIA ON THE SQUARES EASTERN EDGE 4HE SMALL AND IRREGULARLY OPEN TOURIST OFlCE BELOW THE 0ALAZZO DEI #ONSOLIS STONE STAIRCASE PROVIDES A GOOD MAP AND LEAmET ON THE TOWN WITH %NGLISH TRANSLATIONS 4HERE ARE SEVERAL CHARMING PLACES TO STAY 4HE MOST CENTRAL IS THE ONE STAR )L #HIOSTRO DI "EVAGNA #ORSO ' -ATTEOTTI WWW ILCHIOSTRODIBEVAGNACOM JUST OFF 0IAZZA 3 3ILVESTRI IN AN ATMOSPHERIC RENOVATED $OMINICAN CONVENT WITH AN ORIGINAL CLOISTER 4HE THREE STAR 0ALAZZO "RUNAMONTI #ORSO ' -ATTEOTTI WWWBRUNAMONTICOM
IS A SUMPTUOUS PLACE WITH A PERIOD SETTING AND TROMPE LOEIL DECORATIONS 4HE LUXURIOUS HISTORIC MANSION ,/RTO DEGLI !NGELI 6IA $ANTE !LIGHIERI WWWORTOANGELIIT WITH PORTICOES GARDENS AND A GOUR MET RESTAURANT A lNE PLACE TO EAT HAS BEEN IN THE SAME FAMILY SINCE &OR OTHER RESTAURANTS THE SIMPLE %NOTECA DI 0IAZZA /NOFRI 0IAZZA /NOFRI CLOSED 7ED -ONn&RI LUNCHTIMES PLUS A PERIOD IN *ULY !UG OFFERS LIGHT MEALS BASED ON TRADITIONAL DISHES EXECUTED WITH A SLIGHT TWIST DESSERTS ARE USUALLY TIPTOP TRY THE SOUFmÏ AL CIOCCOLATO ! TOUCH MORE EXPENSIVE IS THE EXCELLENT /TTAVIUS 6IA DEL 'ONFALONE CLOSED -ON lRST HALF OF *ULY WONDERFULLY SITUATED IN AN OLD SINGLE VAULTED MEDIEVAL ROOM THE FOOD n GREAT GNOCCHI AL 3AGRANTINO AND SUCCULENT lLETTO n IS PURE 5MBRIAN )F YOU HAVE A CAR CONSIDER DRIVING TO NEARBY #ANNARA SEE BELOW TO EAT AT THE lRST RATE 0ERBACCO 4HE BAR JUST OFF "EVAGNAS CENTRAL PIAZZA n GOOD FOR ICE CREAM AND SNACKS n HAS PERHAPS 5MBRIAS MOST MISERABLE SERVICE AND ODDEST CLIENTELE
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!S YOUD EXPECT FROM ITS NAME -/.4%&!,#/ hTHE &ALCONS -OUNTv COMMANDS THE 6ALE OF 3POLETO 4HE LOCAL TAG OF LA RINGHIERA DELL5MBRIA hTHE BALCONY OF 5MBRIAv MAY BE A TOUCH HYPERBOLIC BUT THE VIEWS ARE NONETHE LESS MAJESTIC AND PAST THE MODERN SUBURBS LIES ONE OF THE lNEST HILL TOWNS IN THE AREA A MAZE OF TINY COBBLED STREETS WITH AN ARTISTIC HERITAGE n INCLUDING PICTURES BY 0ERUGINO AND A STUNNING 'OZZOLI FRESCO CYCLE n OUT OF ALL PROPOR TION TO ITS SIZE 4HE TOWN WAS THE BIRTHPLACE OF EIGHT SAINTS GOOD GOING EVEN BY )TALIAN STANDARDS AND BEGAN LIFE AS A SMALL INDEPENDENT MEDIEVAL COMUNE KNOWN AS #OCCORONE )T WAS DESTROYED BY &REDERICK )) IN HIS ONLY LEGACY A GATE NAMED IN HIS HONOUR WHEREAFTER -ONTEFALCO TOOK ITS NEW NAME SUPPOSEDLY AFTER &REDERICKS IMPERIAL EAGLE CREST )TS CHIEF HISTORICAL INTEREST LIES IN A BRIEF INTERLUDE IN THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY WHEN THE TOWN BECAME A REFUGE TO 3POLETOS PAPAL GOVERNORS LEFT VULNERABLE BY THE DEFECTION OF THE POPES TO !VIGNON 4HEIR MUNIlCENT PRESENCE RESULTED IN THE RICH DECORATION OF LOCAL CHURCHES AND THE COMMISSIONING OF ,ORENZO -AITANI WHO WAS LATER TO WORK ON THE $UOMO IN /RVIETO TO STRENGTHEN THE TOWN WALLS STILL IMPRESSIVELY INTACT AND TO BUILD A FORTRESS FOR THE EXILED RULERS 0OWER THEREAFTER DEVOLVED TO &OLIGNOS 4RINCI FAM ILY TO THE RAPACIOUS "AGLIONI AND EVENTUALLY TO THE #HURCH n A CUE FOR SEVERAL CENTURIES OF QUIET DECLINE
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7ITH YOUR OWN TRANSPORT YOU CAN EXPLORE THE RICH AGRICULTURAL PLAIN SUR ROUNDING "EVAGNA )N THE HILLS ABOVE THE TOWN CLEARLY DELINEATED ON THE SKYLINE IS THE 2ENAISSANCE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA DELLE 'RAZIE RARELY OPEN ADMIRABLE FROM BELOW BUT BY NO MEANS WORTH THE JOURNEY FOR A CLOSER LOOK 4HE MOST REWARDING TRIP FOLLOWS THE MINOR ROAD NORTHWEST TOWARDS #ANNARA 3OME KM OUT IS THE PRETTY RESTORED #ONVENTO DELL!NNUNZIATA FOLLOWED BY THE ONE HORSE HAMLET OF #!.4!,50/ AND THE TINY STONE CHAPEL OF -ADONNA DELLA 0IA 4AKE A MINOR LEFT TURN KM BEYOND AND YOU HIT ,)-)')!./ A CLASSIC FORTIlED HAMLET CENTRED ON A THIRTEENTH CEN TURY CHURCH 3AN -ICHELE !T THE CROSSROADS FOR #ANNARA A LEFT TURN LEADS TO #/,,%-!.#)/ WHERE M NORTH OF THE VILLAGES PUBLIC GARDENS ARE THE UNEXCAVATED RUINS OF 5RBINUM (ORTENSE A 2OMAN OR POSSIBLY %TRUSCAN SETTLEMENT DESTROYED BY 4OTILA IN 4HE ODDS AND ENDS n TRACES OF A TEMPLE PAVEMENT AND MOSAICS n MERIT A WANDER WHILE THE VIEWS OVER THE 6ALE OF 3POLETO ARE SUPERB #!..!2! ITSELF STRANDED MID PLAIN BUT SHELTERED BY TREES HAS THREE CHURCHES EACH WITH SIGNIlCANT PAINTINGS BY MAJOR 5MBRIAN ARTISTS 3AN 'IOVANNI SPORTS FRESCOES BY ,O 3PAGNA WHILE 3AN -ATTEO AND 3AN &RANCES CO HAVE WORKS BY .ICOLÛ !LUNNO 4HE 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE IN 0IAZZA 5MBERTO HOUSES A SMALL GALLERY WITH FRESCOES DETACHED FROM LOCAL CHURCHES AND ARCHEO LOGICAL lNDS FROM 5RBINIUM 9OUD DO WELL TO MAKE A POINT OF EATING AT THE EXCEPTIONAL 0ERBACCO 6IA 5MBERTO ) EVES ONLY CLOSED -ON WEEKS DURING *ULY !UG AN INEXPENSIVE OSTERIA AT THE CENTRE OF THE VILLAGE %VERYTHING SERVED IS RIGOROUSLY LOCAL WITH OLD FASHIONED AND SOMETIMES ROBUST DISHES YOU WONT lND EVERYWHERE SUCH AS ZAMPETTI CON SALSA VERDE PIGS TROTTERS AND PICCIONE IN CASSERUOLA PIGEON CASSEROLE
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%VERYTHING IS WITHIN A FEW MINUTES WALK OF THE MAIN SQUARE 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE HOME TO A TOURIST INFORMATION OFlCE ON THE SOUTH SIDE ,A 3TRADA DEL 3AGRANTINO DAILY !PRILn/CT AMnPM n .OVn&EB AMnPM n PM WWWSTRADADELSAGRANTINOIT 9OU CAN ALSO PICK UP SOME INFORMATION AT THE TICKET DESK IN THE 3AN &RANCESCO MUSEUM ON 6IA 2INGHIERA 5MBRA &IVE BUSES DAILY -ONn3AT FROM &OLIGNOS 0ORTA 2OMANA AND ONE DAILY FROM 0ERUGIA -ONn3AT STOP JUST OUTSIDE THE WALLS AT THE BOTTOM OF 6IA 5MBERTO ) IN 6IALE DELLA 6ITTORIA 4HE POST OFlCE IS AT THE TOP OF #ORSO ' -AMELI VIRTUALLY ON THE MAIN SQUARE AS IS THE MAIN BANK FOR EXCHANGE )STITUTO DI #REDITO 4HE POLICE STATION IS IN 6IA ! 'RAMSCI 4HERES NO NEED TO SPEND MORE THAN A MORNING IN -ONTEFALCO BUT ITS A PEACE FUL SPOT TO REST UP WITH TWO HOTELS IN TOWN n THE TINY QUAINTLY OLD FASHIONED 2INGHIERA 5MBRA #ORSO ' -AMELI WWWRINGHIERAUMBRA COM WHICH HAS A RELAXED LITTLE RESTAURANT CLOSED -ON EXCEPT IN SUMMER IN THE MEDIEVAL VAULTED ROOM DOWNSTAIRS AND THE FANCIER $EGLI !FFRESCHI #ORSO ' -AMELI WHICH IS A BIT CLOSER TO THE MAIN SQUARE 2ESIDENTS OF THE LATTER CAN USE THE SWIMMING POOL AT THE UGLY MODERN SISTER HOTEL (OTEL .UOVO -ONDO KM WEST OF TOWN ON THE MAIN ROAD 4HE 6ILLA 0AMBUFFETTI 6IA 6ITTORIA WWWVILLAPAMBUFFETTI COM IS A MARVELLOUS FOUR STAR VILLA HOTEL WITH PARK AND POOL M WEST OF TOWN TOWARDS &OLIGNO 0RICES ARE HIGH BUT IF YOURE HONEYMOONING OR FANCY A NIGHT OF CREDIT CARD MADNESS THIS IS THE PLACE n THOUGH MAKE SURE YOURE IN THE MAIN VILLA NOT THE GATEHOUSE 4HE ROOM TO GET IF YOU CAN IS THE ONE IN THE OLD TOWER WITH A ª VIEW
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4HE CAVERNOUS FOURTEENTH CENTURY CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCESCO -ARCHn-AY 3EPT /CT DAILY AMnPM nPM *UNE *ULY DAILY AMnPM nPM !UG DAILY AMnPM nPM .OVn&EB 4UESn3UN AMn PM nPM + HOSTS ONE OF THE GREAT 2ENAISSANCE FRESCO CYCLES A SERIES OF PANELS ON THE ,IFE OF 3T &RANCIS BY "ENOZZO 'OZZOLI 'OZZOLI A PUPIL OF &RA !NGELICO HAS A COMPARATIVELY LOWLY PLACE IN THE PANTHEON OF &LORENTINE ARTISTS BUT THIS DELIGHTFUL CYCLE n WHICH DUPLICATES IN ITS SUBJECTS MANY OF 'IOT TOS PANELS IN !SSISI n IS BOLD IN ITS COLOURING AND UTTERLY ASSURED OF ITS NARRATIVE )TS ALSO OF GREAT SOCIAL INTEREST FOR ITS CLOSELY OBSERVED TOWNSCAPES !REZZO IS DEPICTED AS IS -ONTEFALCO VISITED BY 3T &RANCIS AFTER HIS SERMON TO THE BIRDS OUTSIDE "EVAGNA 4HE PANELS COMPLETELY lLL THE APSE WITH TWENTY MEDALLIONS AROUND THEM DEPICTING FAMOUS &RANCISCANS UNDERNEATH THE MAIN WINDOW APPEAR 0ETRARCH $ANTE AND 'IOTTO MEMBERS OF THE LAY TERTIARY ORDER &URTHER WORK BY 'OZZOLI lLLS THE WALLS AND VAULTS TO THE RIGHT AS WELL AS THE lRST CHAPEL ON THE LEFT SOUTH SIDE OF THE CHURCH 4HE STRIKING BUT OBVIOUSLY CRUDER FRESCOES IN THE FOURTH lFTH AND SIXTH CHAPELS ON THIS SIDE ARE THE WORK OF THE lFTEENTH CENTURY &OLIGNO ARTIST 'IOVANNI DI #ORRADUCCIO %LSEWHERE ARE DISPLAYED PAINTINGS BY MANY OF THE LEADING LIGHTS OF THE 5MBRIAN 2ENAISSANCE n 0ERUGINO .ICOLÛ !LUNNO 4IBERIO D!SSISI n AND SOME
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-ONTEFALCOS WINES HAVE ALWAYS BEEN PRIZED WITHIN 5MBRIA BUT HAVE RECENTLY STARTED TO ACHIEVE WIDER FAME 4HEIR REPUTATION RESTS NOT SO MUCH ON THE SERVICEABLE 2OSSO DI -ONTEFALCO AS ON TWO POWERFUL REDS OF MYSTERIOUS ORIGIN THE EXTRAORDINARY 3AGRANTINO AND 3AGRANTINO 0ASSITO "OTH ARE MADE FROM THE 3AGRANTINO GRAPE A VARIETY FOUND NOWHERE ELSE IN %UROPE 7HY IT SHOULD BE UNIQUE TO A TINY AREA OF CENTRAL )TALY IS A MYSTERY IT APPEARS IN RECORDS IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY BUT EXPERTS CLAIM A FAR MORE ANCIENT PEDIGREE SOME SAYING IT WAS IMPORTED BY THE 3ARACENS OTHERS THAT IT WAS INTRODUCED BY 3YRIAN MONKS IN THE SEVENTH CENTURY OR PERHAPS CAME FROM 0IEDMONT OR #ATALONIA )TS NAME MAY DERIVE FROM ITS SACRAMENTAL USE BY &RANCISCAN COMMUNITIES WHO USED TO CULTIVATE THIS GRAPE 3AGRANTINO IS A DRY RED USUALLY MADE WITH UP TO lVE PERCENT OF THE COMMON 4REB BIANO 4OSCANO 3AGRANTINO 0ASSITO IS SIMILAR WITH THE IMPORTANT DIFFERENCE THAT IT USES SEMI DRIED OR PASSITO GRAPES TO PRODUCE THAT RAREST OF DRINKS n A SWEET RED DESSERT WINE "OTH VARIETIES IN THE WORDS OF )TALIAN WINE GURU "URTON !NDERSON HAVE A REMARKABLE hDARK PURPLE GARNET COLOUR RICH BERRY LIKE SCENT AND WARM RICH FULL mAVOURv 4HE 3AGRANTINO HE ADDS HAS hVOLUPTUOUS BODYv AND hSTAGGERING STRENGTHv QUALITIES TO WHICH EVEN THE LEAST EDUCATED PALATE WILL BE ABLE TO ATTEST AFTER A COUPLE OF GLASSES 4HERE ARE NUMEROUS SMALL PRODUCERS WITH !DANTI RELIABLE LEADING EXPO NENTS OF BOTH VARIETIES THEIR SINGULAR 2OSSO D!RQUATA IN !NDERSONS WORDS hONE OF CENTRAL )TALYS MOST ORIGINAL AND ENJOYABLE RED WINESv !NY OF THE MANY PRODUCERS IN THE TINY $/# AREA HOWEVER SHOULD COME UP TRUMPS ESPECIALLY !NTONELLI "ENINCASA #APRAI 2OCCA DI &ABBRI AND 0AOLO "EA n THE LAST ARE PRODUCERS OF WHAT !NDERSON DESCRIBES AS A hTITANICv 3AGRANTINO 0ASSITO 4HE ALIMENTARI OR SMART BAR ENOTECA IN -ONTEFALCOS MAIN 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE CONTAIN A SUPERB SELECTION OF ALL THE AREAS WINES
FASCINATING LITTLE KNOWN CHARACTERS 0ERUGINOS .ATIVITY ON THE WEST WALL IN PARTICULAR IS WORTH LOOKING OUT FOR AS ,AGO 4RASIMENO IS FEATURED IN THE BACK GROUND 7ORKS ORIGINALLY COMMISSIONED FOR 3AN &RANCESCO REMAIN IN SITU WITH OTHERS HOUSED IN THE EXCELLENT -USEO #IVICO DI 3AN &RANCESCO UP THE STAIRS SAME HOURS TICKET )N THE GALLERY LOOK FOR &RANCESCO -ELANZIOS -ADONNA %NTHRONED WITH 3IX 3AINTS THE WORK OF A LEADING LOCAL 2ENAISSANCE PAINTER AND FOR THE TWO PANELS n ONE BY -ELANZIO n SHOWING THE -ADONNA DEL 3OCCORSO 4HE STORY COMMON IN 5MBRIA THOUGH RARELY PAINTED ELSEWHERE CONCERNS A YOUNG MOTHER WHO TIRED OF HER WHINGEING CHILD CRIES h7OULD THAT THE $EVIL MIGHT TAKE YOU AWAYv WHEREUPON THE $EVIL APPEARS PROMPTING THE MOTHER TO INVOKE THE 6IRGIN TO SAVE HER INFANT 3ANT!GOSTINO
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4HE !UGUSTINIANS MONASTERY AND CHURCH OF 3ANT!GOSTINO IS M FROM THE &RANCISCANS POWER BASE ACROSS THE 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE ! SIMPLE 'OTHIC HALL BEGUN IN IT IS TYPICAL OF THE ORDER DESIGNED WITH A VIEW TO MINIMIZING THE FRIPPERIES AND MAXIMIZING THE PREACHING SPACE )T HAS A FEW EXCELLENT FRESCOES THAT HAVE SURVIVED THE DAMP n INCLUDING A #ORONATION OF THE 6IRGIN BY #APORALI n BUT ITS MAIN INTEREST LENDING A DISTINCTLY SPOOKY AIR LIES IN ITS COLLEC TION OF MUMMIES -IDWAY DOWN THE RIGHT NAVE ARE THE lRST OF THESE n THE TINY BODIES OF "EATA )LLUMINATA AND "EATA #HIARELLA CLAD IN DUSTY MUSLIN WHICH ONLY HALF HIDES THEIR BONES SKIN AND YELLOW FACES !T THE TOP OF THE LEFT HAND SIDE OF THE CHURCH IS ANOTHER DUSTY CADAVER PROPPED ON ONE ELBOW AND LOOKING VERY COMFORTABLE IN A GLASS FRONTED WARDROBE +NOWN AS THE "EATO 0ELLEGRINO (OLY 0ILGRIM HE APPARENTLY CAME TO VENERATE )LLUMINATA AND "EATA FELL ASLEEP IN THE CHURCH IN THE POSITION HES IN NOW AND WAS FOUND DEAD NEXT MORNING AGAINST A CONFESSIONAL )MMEDIATELY PLACED IN A SEPULCHRE HE WAS FOUND OUTSIDE IT THE NEXT DAY AND REFUSED TO STAY PUT ON SEVERAL SUBSEQUENT OCCASIONS (IS BODY AND CLOTHES DIDNT DECAY FOR A HUNDRED YEARS $ESPITE THIS IMPRESSIVE BEHAVIOUR NOTHING WAS KNOWN OF THE CHARACTER SO THERE WAS NO SAINTHOOD AND HE WAS PLONKED FOR POSTERITY IN HIS WARDROBE 3ANTA #HIARA
)N THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA #HIARA lVE MINUTES FROM 3AN &RANCESCO IN 6IA 6ERDI THE WIZENED BODY OF 3T #LARE OF -ONTEFALCO LANGUISHES IN A TRANSPARENT CASKET HIGH UP ON THE ALTAR 4HE SAINT n NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH HER MORE FAMOUS NAMESAKE AT !SSISI n WAS BORN IN -ONTEFALCO IN BECAME A NUN AT THE AGE OF AND EMBARKED ON A SERIES OF MIRACLES CONNECTED WITH THE 0ASSION OF #HRIST 4HERES A SMALL FRESCO CYCLE ON HER LIFE IN A CHAPEL INSIDE THE CONVENT RING THE BELL ON THE DOOR TO THE RIGHT OF THE CASKET AND ASK ONE OF THE NUNS TO UNLOCK IT 4HE NUNS MIGHT ALSO SHOW YOU AROUND THE REST OF THE ADJOINING CONVENT /N SHOW IS A SMALL #RUCIlX ENSHRINING THREE OF THE SAINTS GALLSTONES REPRESENTING THE 4RINITY AS WELL AS THE REMAINS OF HER HEART AND THE SCISSORS WITH WHICH THE RELIC WAS HACKED OUT OF HER ALL OF WHICH ARE KEPT IN A CUPBOARD UNDER HER BODY n WHICH IS CLEVERLY SHARED BY THE MAIN CHURCH AND THIS PRIVATE CHAPEL 4HE STORY RELATES THAT #HRIST APPEARED TO #LARE SAYING THE BURDEN OF THE #ROSS WAS BECOM ING TOO HEAVY FOR HIM THE SAINT REPLIED SHE WOULD HELP BY CARRYING IT WITHIN AND WHEN SHE WAS OPENED UP A CROSS SHAPED PIECE OF TISSUE WAS DULY FOUND ON HER HEART /THER SIGHTS INCLUDE A MIRACULOUS TREE THAT GREW FROM A STAFF PLANTED BY #HRIST WHO APPEARED AGAIN TO #LARE IN THE SHRUBBERY 4HE NUNS BELIEVE IT TO BE THE SOLE WILD SPECIMEN OF ITS SPECIES IN ALL OF %UROPE THE BERRIES ARE USED TO MAKE ROSARIES AND ARE SAID TO HAVE POWERFUL MEDICINAL PROPERTIES
3ANT)LLUMINATA AND 3AN &ORTUNATO
$OWN 6IA 6ERDI FROM 3ANTA #HIARA IS THE TINY CHURCH OF 3ANT)LLUMINATA WORTH A VISIT FOR ITS TRIPLE ARCHED 2ENAISSANCE PORTICO AND COMPREHENSIVELY FRESCOED INTERIOR 4HE STANDARD OF PAINTING ISNT ALWAYS HIGH n MOST WORKS ARE BY THE OBSCURE LOCAL MAN -ELANZIO n BUT THE OVERALL EFFECT IS CAPTIVATING +EEP HEADING OUT OF TOWN FROM HERE DOWN THE AVENUE OF HORSE CHESTNUTS THEN TURN LEFT AT THE 4 JUNCTION AND A TEN MINUTE TRUDGE BRINGS YOU OUT AT THE -ONASTERO DI 3AN &ORTUNATO CLOSED DAILY NOONnPM SET AMONGST ILEX WOODS THE SITE HOME TO A CHURCH SINCE THE lFTH CENTURY )T HAS NOTED FRESCOES ON THE ,IFE OF 3T &RANCIS BY 4IBERIO D!SSISI n ONE OF 0ERUGINOS LEADING DISCIPLES n IN ITS #APPELLA DELLE 2OSE TO THE LEFT OF THE MAIN COURTYARD 'OZZOLI PAINTED THE VERY FADED -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH !NGELS OVER THE DOOR OF THE MAIN CHURCH THE 3T 3EBASTIAN IS BY 4IBERIO THE DARK FRESCO OF 3T &ORTUNATUS INSIDE ON THE LEFT ALTAR AND THE THREE WORN TONDI ON THE SARCOPHAGUS OF 3T 3EVERUS IN THE LITTLE CHAPEL OFF THE RIGHT AISLE 4HE 3T &ORTUNATUS FRESCO ONCE SAT ABOVE THE REMAINS OF &ORTUNATUS HIMSELF WHOSE BONES WERE LAID OUT IN A MACABRE SKULL AND CROSSBONES ARRANGEMENT AT THE TIME OF WRITING THEY HAVE BEEN TEMPORARILY REMOVED 4HE SAINT DIED IN AND IN ROTTING AWAY PROVED RATHER MORE COR RUPTIBLE THAN 3ANT!GOSTINOS HOLY PERSONAGES
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&OR SOMETHING GRANDER THAN THE 2INGHIERAS RESTAURANT TRY THE OUTSTANDING #OCCORONE SET IN A MEDIEVAL BUILDING ON THE CORNER OF ,ARGO 4EMPESTIVI AND 6IA &ABBRI CLOSED 7ED EXCEPT IN SUMMER WHERE THE CHANCES ARE YOULL HAVE ONE OF 5MBRIAS BETTER MEALS n GREAT PASTAS AND CRESPELLI ROLLED PANCAKES AND SUPERLATIVE TIRAMISá 4O lND IT FOLLOW THE OFF PUTTING YELLOW SIGNS FOR THE h4IPICAL 2ISTORANTv 4HE RESTAURANT IN THE 0AMBUFFETTI HOTEL IS ALSO GOOD THOUGH MORE FORMAL THE DINING ROOM IS A LOVELY GLASS ENCLOSED SPACE WITH VIEWS ONTO THE GARDEN 4HIS MAKES IT GREAT IN SUMMER BUT NO MATCH IN WINTER FOR THE ROARING WOOD lRE COSINESS OF THE #OCCORONE THE lRE USUALLY BURNS IN SUMMER AS WELL n ITS USED TO GRILL ALL THE MEATS 0RICES TOO ARE HIGHER IN THE 0AMBUFFETTI YOURE PAYING FOR ELEGANCE RATHER THAN BETTER FOOD 9OU MIGHT WHILE AWAY AN HOUR IN THE BAR ENOTECA IN THE MAIN SQUARE PART OF A CHIC BUT RATHER SELF CONSCIOUS LITTLE DEVELOPMENT OF CRAFT AND FOOD SHOPS IN THE COOL CELLAR DOWNSTAIRS FROM THE BAR YOU CAN DRINK WINE AND EAT LIGHT MEALS /THERWISE TRY THE LITTLE "AR 'IARDINO SIGNED OFF THE WESTERN END OF #ORSO 5MBERTO ) 4HE BEST PLACE TO BUY FOOD AND WINE IS THE OLD SHOP ON 0IAZZA DEL #OMUNE WHICH HAS A WELL PRICED STOCK OF TRUFmES LOCAL OILS AND LEADING WINES
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4REVI &EW PEOPLE GIVE 42%6) MORE THAN AN ADMIRING GLANCE FROM THE TRAIN OR HIGHWAY &ROM ACROSS THE VALLEY THE TOWN LOOKS MERELY ENTICING BUT AT CLOSER RANGE 4REVI HAS THE MOST STUPENDOUS APPEARANCE OF ANY TOWN IN 5MBRIA ITS MEDIEVAL HOUSES PERCHED ON A PYRAMIDAL HILL AND ENCIRCLED BY MILES OF OLIVE GROVES RENOWNED FOR PRODUCING CENTRAL )TALYS lNEST OIL )TS DAUNTING INACCES SIBILITY IS ONE OF THE REASONS FOR ITS EASYGOING OLD FASHIONED CHARM THE FEELING IS OF A PLEASANT ORDINARY PROVINCIAL TOWN UNSPOILT BUT JUST BEGINNING n LIKE 3PELLO AND -ONTEFALCO BEFORE IT n TO FEEL THE lRST EFFECTS OF TOURISM 4HE TOWNS NAME INCIDENTALLY HAS NO RELATION TO 2OMES CELEBRATED 4REVI &OUNTAIN OTHER
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THAN THE FACT THAT IT DERIVES LIKE THAT OF THE FOUNTAIN FROM THE FACT THAT THREE ROADS OR TRE VIE MET HERE /LIVES ASIDE YOU MIGHT ALSO NOTE 4REVIS PECULIAR BLACK CELERY SEDANO NERO IN SEASON IN /CTOBER WHEN A 4HURSDAY MORNING MARKET IS DEVOTED TO IT
4HE 4OWN !S WITH MOST 5MBRIAN HILL TOWNS 4REVIS CHIEF PLEASURE LIES IN TRAMPING THE MEDIEVAL STREETS WHICH ARE OBSESSIVELY WELL KEPT AND CHARACTERIZED BY COMPLI CATED PATTERNS OF COBBLESTONES 2OMAN FRAGMENTS ARE EMBEDDED IN THE INNER OF TWO SETS OF MEDIEVAL WALLS RAISED WHEN 4REVI PARADED AS A MINOR INDEPENDENT COMUNE 4HE KEY SIGHT IS THE MODERN 0INACOTECA #OMUNALE OR 2ACCOLTA D!RTE DI 3AN &RANCISCO !PRILn-AY 3EPT 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM *UNE *ULY 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM !UG DAILY AMnPM nPM /CTn-ARCH &RIn3UN AMnPM nPM + IN THE FORMER #ONVENTO DI 3AN &RANCESCO ON ,ARGO $ON "OSCO WHERE 3T &RANCISS PREACHING WAS ONCE INTERRUPTED BY THE BRAYING OF AN hINDOMITABLE ASSv 4HE MUSEUM IS A SLICK BUT PLEASING AFFAIR AND HOUSES A WELL PRESENTED DISPLAY OF COINS CERAMICS AND 2OMAN FRAGMENTS SEVERAL PAINTINGS BY 5MBRIAN MASTERS AND ONE OUTSTAND ING WORK A #ORONATION OF THE 6IRGIN BY ,O 3PAGNA REMOVED FROM THE CHURCH OF 3AN -ARTINO SEE OPPOSITE IT WAS COMMISSIONED BY 4REVIS MEDIEVAL GOVERNORS AS A COPY OF A MORE FAMOUS WORK BY THE &LORENTINE 'HIRLANDAIO MAINLY BECAUSE THEY COULDNT AFFORD THE REAL THING !LSO LOOK OUT FOR 3CENES FROM THE ,IFE OF #HRIST BY 'IOVANNI DI #ORRADUCCIO A lFTEENTH CENTURY PAINTER FROM &OLIGNO WHOSE FRESCOES ARE ON DISPLAY IN -ONTEFALCOS 3AN &RANCESCO SEE P )N THE SAME COMPLEX IS THE -USEO DELLA #IVILTÌ DELL5LIVO SAME HOURS AND TICKET A WELL INTENTIONED BUT NOT ENTIRELY SUCCESSFUL MUSEUM DEVOTED TO THE HISTORY OF THE OLIVE AND OLIVE OIL PRODUCTION MANY OF ITS CAVERNOUS ROOMS ARE ALL BUT EMPTY AND THE HALF HEARTED HANDS ON DISPLAYS SEEM TO BE AIMED MOSTLY
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AT CHILDREN 4HE VARIOUS INTERPRETIVE BOARDS AND THEIR %NGLISH TRANSLATIONS HOW EVER ARE PACKED WITH INTERESTING INFORMATION n IF YOU CAN BE BOTHERED TO WADE THROUGH THE REAMS OF TEXT 4HE HIGHEST POINT OF THE TOWN IS 3ANT%MILIANO COMELY AND RECENTLY RESTORED TWELFTH CENTURY 2OMANESQUE ON THE OUTSIDE "AROQUE HORROR SHOW WITHIN %MILIANUS WAS AN !RMENIAN MISSIONARY AND BISHOP OF THE TOWN CUT OFF IN HIS PRIME IN HIS FEAST DAY *AN IS CELEBRATED BY A PROCESSION 4HE ONLY EARLY SURVIVORS OF THE BUTCHERY OF THE BUILDING ARE A CAPTIVATING !LTAR OF THE 3ACRAMENT IN THE SECOND CHAPEL ON THE LEFT AND FRESCOES BY -ELANZIO WHO WAS ACTIVE IN MANY VILLAGES HEREABOUTS NOTABLY -ONTEFALCO AT THE START OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY !LMOST OPPOSITE IS A VERY MODEST GALLERY OF MODERN ART THE 4REVI &LASH !RT -USEUM 6IA ,UCARINI HOURS VARY + /UTSIDE THE WALLS
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!RRIVE BY TRAIN AND YOU HAVE TO HOPE FOR ONE OF THE RARE CONNECTING BUSES TO THE OLD TOWN CENTRE A VERY STEEP KM DISTANT BUSES FROM &OLIGNO DROP OFF IN 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI A LARGE SQUARE ON THE EAST OF TOWN JUST OUTSIDE THE WALLS ALSO WITH PARKING )TS A HALF MINUTE STROLL TO THE MAIN SQUARE INSIDE THE WALLS 0IAZZA -AZZINI WHERE THERES A SMALL AND OBLIGING 0RO ,OCO TOURIST OFlCE AT NO DAILY AMnPM nPM WWWPROTREVICOM AND A VERY HELPFUL 4OURIST #O /P -ONn3AT AMnPM WWW BEDANDBREAKFASTUMBRIACOM 4HE LATTER BENEATH THE 4ORRE #OMUNALE CAN ORGANIZE ALL MANNER OF ACCOMMODATION LOCALLY FROM ROOMS TO VILLAS AS WELL AS A VARIETY OF TOURS AND ACTIVITIES IT ALSO HAS THE USUAL RANGE OF MAPS AND GENERAL TOURIST INFORMATION $ESPITE THE AFTERNOON CLOSING THERES GENERALLY SOMEONE IN THE OFlCE MOST OF THE DAY (OTELS COMPRISE THE BLAND BUT ADEQUATE THREE STAR 4REVI 6IA &ANTOSATI WWWTREVIHOTELNET AND THE NEWER TWO STAR )L 4ERZIERE 6IA 3ALERNO WWWILTERZIERECOM WHICH HAS THE BONUS OF A PLEASANT GARDEN 4HE BEST PLACE TO STAY HOWEVER n AND A SIGN OF HOW 4REVI IS CHANGING n IS THE CENTRAL ROOM !NTICA $IMORA ALLA 2OCCA 0IAZZA DELLA 2OCCA WWWHOTELALLAROCCAIT THE SORT OF SMARTLY RENOVATED HISTORIC BUILDING IN THIS CASE A SIXTEENTH CENTURY PALAZZO THAT HAS APPEARED IN MOST 5MBRIAN TOWNS IN THE LAST DECADE OR SO 4HE
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TOURIST OFlCES HAVE AN EVER CHANGING ROSTER OF PRIVATE ROOMS AND APARTMENTS FOR RENT &OR FOOD TRY THE /STERIA ,A 6ECCHIA 0OSTA 0IAZZA -AZZINI 3EPTn*UNE CLOSED 4HURS OR THE HALF HIDDEN ,A 0REPOSITURA 6ICOLO /SCURA A JUST BELOW 0IAZZA DELLA 2OCCA WHICH HAS LOVELY MEDIEVAL DINING AREAS )N THE HAMLET OF 0)''% KM SOUTH THE 0ESCATORE 6IA #HIESA 4ONDA MAURO PASQ LIBEROIT HAS NINE TWO STAR ROOMS AND A GOOD LOCAL RESTAURANT THE 4AVERNA DEL 0ESCATORE CLOSED 7ED EXCEPT IN SUMMER
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!S YOU MOVE SOUTH FROM 4REVI TOWARDS 3POLETO SEE P THE 6ALE OF 3POLETO BECOMES INCREASINGLY POCKMARKED WITH NEW HOUSES AND SMALL FACTORIES )TS ALL THE MORE UNEXPECTED THEN TO COME ACROSS THE SACRED &ONTI DI #LITUNNO DAILY -AYn!UG AMnPM EARLY 3EPT AMnPM LATE !PRIL AMnPM EARLY !PRIL LATE 3EPT AMnPM LATE -ARCH AMnPM nPM EARLY -ARCH /CT AMnPM nPM .OVn&EB AMnPM nPM + A SERIES OF SPRINGS REVERED SINCE 2OMAN TIMES /RIGINALLY DEDICATED TO THE ORACU LAR GOD #LITUNNUS THE SPRINGS WERE OFTEN USED AS A PARTY VENUE BY THE LIKES OF #ALIGULA AND #LAUDIUS EVEN THOUGH THEIR MAJOR CURATIVE EFFECT IS ALLEGEDLY THAT OF REMOVING ANY APPETITE FOR ALCOHOL %ARTHQUAKES OVER THE YEARS HAVE UPSET MANY OF THE UNDERGROUND SOURCES SO THE WATERS ARENT AS PLENTIFUL AS THEY ONCE WERE BUT THEY STILL mOW AS LIMPID AS THEY DID WHEN "YRON EXTOLLED hTHE SWEET EST WAVE OF THE MOST LIVING CRYSTAL THE PUREST GOD OF GENTLE WATERSv 4HERES SOME COMMERCIAL FUSS AROUND THE ENTRANCE BUT THE SPRINGS STREAMS AND WILLOW SHADED LAKE BEYOND ARE LANGUIDLY ROMANTIC WITH THE OCCASIONAL COACH PARTY THE ONLY INTRUSION ON WEEKDAYS AT WEEKENDS THE RACKET IS MORE INTENSE 5NFORTU NATELY THE PROXIMITY OF THE ROAD WITH ITS ROARING TRUCKS AND BUSES COMES CLOSE TO RUINING THE SPRINGS EFFECT ! FEW HUNDRED METRES NORTH AND EASILY MISSED IS THE SO CALLED 4EMPIETTO DI #LITUNNO 4UESn3UN AMnDUSK + ACCESSIBLE ONLY FROM THE ROAD NOT DIRECT LY FROM THE &ONTI )T LOOKS LIKE A MINIATURE CLASSICAL TEMPLE BUT IS ACTUALLY AN EIGHTH CENTURY #HRISTIAN CHURCH COBBLED TOGETHER WITH COLUMNS FROM THE RUINS OF 2OMAN TEMPLES AND VILLAS ALL LONG VANISHED 3CHOLARS UNTIL RECENTLY WERE FOOLED INTO THINKING IT A GENUINE PIECE OF 2OMAN ANTIQUITY THOUGH 'OETHE WAS ONE NOTABLE DISSENTER FROM THE PARTY LINE 4HE TRACK THAT RUNS BELOW THE FACADE IS THE REMAINS OF THE ORIGINAL 6IA &LAMINIA 4HE ENTRANCE IS TO THE SIDE IF ITS SHUT TRY RINGING THE BELL ON THE GATE )NSIDE ARE SOME FADED "YZANTINE FRESCOES DATED TO THE EIGHTH CENTURY AND SAID TO BE THE OLDEST IN 5MBRIA REPRESENTING #HRIST 3T 0ETER AND 3T 0AUL 4HOUGH ITS POSITION ABOVE THE &ONTI DI #LITUNNO IS IMPRESSIVE ENOUGH THE MAIN ATTRACTION OF THE SMALL FORTIlED HAMLET OF #!-0%,,/ IS THE FACT THAT IT OFFERS ACCOMMODATION &OR HOTEL ROOMS TRY EITHER THE TWO STAR &ONTANELLE 6IA D%LCI WWWALBERGOFONTANELLEIT IN THE HAMLET OF &ONTANELLE OR THE TWO STAR 2AVALE 2AVALE #AMPELLO CLOSE TO THE &ONTI WWWHOTELRAVALEIT BOTH HAVE RESTAURANTS AND REASONABLE ROOMS &OR THOSE EQUIPPED WITH A CAR OR BIKE THERE ARE SUPERB MOUNTAIN EXCURSIONS ON THE ROADS NORTHEAST OF #AMPELLO MINOR ROADS FOLLOW DEEP CUT VALLEYS VIA 0ETTINO AND 3PINA INTO MARVELLOUS COUNTRYSIDE THE HILLS ON EITHER SIDE RISING TO OVER M AT -ONTE -AGGIORE AND -ONTE "RUNNETTE
4RAVEL DETAILS 4HE EXCELLENT WEBSITE WWWUMBRIATRASPORTIIT HAS LINKS TO FULL AND UPDATED TIMETABLES FOR ALL PUBLIC TRANSPORT INCLUDING THE PRIVATE AND STATE RAIL SER VICES AND THE !4# !0- AND 33)4 BUS SERVICES 4RAINS
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Ê 3AN 3ALVATORE 3POLETO 4HE BEST OF 3POLETOS MANY lNE 2OMANESQUE CHURCHES 3EE P
Ê $UOMO 3POLETO 4HE REGIONS PRETTIEST CATHE DRAL CELEBRATED FOR ITS FACADE AND &RA ,IPPO ,IPPI FRESCOES 3EE P
Ê 0ONTE DELLE 4ORRI 3PO 3 0/, % 4/ ! .$ 4 ( % 6! , . % 2 ) . !
LETO !WE INSPIRING MEDI EVAL AQUEDUCT AND BRIDGE WITH SPECTACULAR VIEWS 3EE P
Ê 4HE 6ALNERINA ! VERDANT MOUNTAIN EDGED VALLEY DOTTED WITH HILLnVILLAGES AND SPECTACULAR VIEWS 3EE P
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MOUNTAIN ROAD FROM
3ANT!NATOLIA TO -ON TELEONE AND #ASCIA IS ONE OF 5MBRIAS MOST EXHILARATING DRIVES 3EE P
Ê 3AN 0IETRO IN 6ALLE 5MBRIAS LOVELIEST ABBEY IN A BEAUTIFUL LOCATION WITH WORKS OF ART DATING FROM THE EIGHTH CENTURY 3EE P
Ê .ORCIA -OUNTAIN TOWN RENOWNED FOR ITS HAM CHEESE TRUFmES AND OTHER GASTRONOMIC TREATS 3EE P
Ê 0IANO 'RANDE 'LORIOUS UPLAND PLAIN CENTREPIECE OF THE MAGNIlCENT -ONTI 3IBILLINI NATIONAL PARK 3EE P
5 4HE 0ONTE DELLE 4ORRI 3POLETO
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ASTERN 5MBRIA IS IN MANY WAYS THE MOST ENJOYABLE PART OF THE REGION AT LEAST IN TERMS OF ITS LANDSCAPES OFFERING SUPERB WALKING AND CAR OR CYCLE TOURING AMID SOME OF THE WILDEST SCENERY IN CENTRAL )TALY )TS MAIN CITY AND TRANSPORT HUB 3POLETO IS ONE OF 5MBRIAS MORE STIMULATING BASES ITS MANY 2OMANESQUE CHURCHES AND OTHER MONUMENTS AND A YEAR ROUND PROGRAMME OF EXHIBITIONS AND CONCERTS MAKING IT AN ESSENTIAL FEATURE OF ANY ITINERARY 9ET FOR ALL ITS MEDIEVAL AND 2OMAN SIGHTS 3POLETO IS A HILL TOWN FAR FROM OVERWHELMED BY ITS PAST 4HE WALKING AND SCENERY ARE AT THEIR BEST IN THE EXTREME EAST OF THE REGION WHERE THE SPECTACULAR -ONTI 3IBILLINI LOOK DOWN OVER THE 0IANO 'RANDE A BREATHTAKING HIGHLAND PLAIN WHICH IN SPRING BECOMES AN EXPANSE OF WILD mOW ERS 4HERE IS SPORADIC PUBLIC TRANSPORT ACCESS TO THESE AREAS FROM BOTH 3POLETO AND .ORCIA A FRIENDLY TOWN AND THE EARTHQUAKE PRONE BIRTHPLACE OF 3T "ENE DICT FOUNDER OF 7ESTERN MONASTICISM %QUALLY BEAUTIFUL AND A LITTLE EASIER TO REACH ARE THE VILLAGES OF THE 6ALNERINA AN UPLAND VALLEY ENCLOSED BY MOUNTAINS THAT ARC THROUGH THE REGION EAST OF 3POLETO -UCH OF THE 3IBILLINI AND THE UPPER REACHES OF THE 6ALNERINA ARE BEST SEEN USING .ORCIA AS A BASE !CCESS TO 3POLETO IS STRAIGHTFORWARD AS THE TOWN LIES ON THE 2OMEn!NCONA TRAIN LINE WITH LINKS TO 4ERNI AND .ARNI TO THE SOUTH AND &OLIGNO !SSISI AND 0ERUGIA TO THE NORTH "USES PROVIDE FEASIBLE LINKS FOR THE MAIN VILLAGES OF THE 6ALNERINA BUT NOT FOR THE TRAILHEADS OF THE -ONTI 3IBILLINI AND 0IANO 'RANDE TO GET THE MOST FROM THE COUNTRYSIDE YOU REALLY NEED YOUR OWN TRANSPORT )F YOURE DRIVING NOTE THERES A QUICK ROAD TUNNEL NOT YET MARKED ON MOST MAPS JUST EAST OF 3POLETO OFF THE OLD MINOR ROAD OVER THE MOUNTAINS TO 6ALLO DI .ERA 4HE TUNNEL PICKS UP THE 6ALNERINA ROAD A LITTLE SOUTH OF THE OLD 6ALLO DI .ERA JUNCTION CLOSE TO 3ANT!NATOLIA DI .ARCO
/FFICIAL WEBSITES 5MBRIAS OFlCIAL TOURIST WEBSITES ARE WWWUMBRIA TURISMOIT AND WWW UMBRIAIT -ANY OF THE REGIONS MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES ARE AFlLIATED TO 3ISTEMA MUSEO INFORMATION WWWSISTEMAMUSEOIT
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OF MUSEUMS AND 2OMANESQUE MONUMENTS )TS MAJOR ARCHITECTURAL ATTRACTIONS ARE IN THE MEDIEVAL 5PPER 4OWN THOUGH THE LARGELY MODERN ,OWER 4OWN ALSO BOASTS THREE MAJOR 2OMANESQUE CHURCHES 4HE WHOLE IS A RELATIVELY COM PACT AREA AND GETTING AROUND IS EASY ENOUGH ON FOOT n THOUGH YOU DONT WANT TO BE WALKING UP AND DOWN BETWEEN THE 5PPER AND ,OWER TOWNS TOO OFTEN IN THE SUMMER HEAT 2OAD AND TRANSPORT LINKS MAKE 3POLETO A NATURAL BASE FOR EXPLORING EVEN !SSISI IS AN EASY DAY TRIP 4HE ONE DRAWBACK TO THE PLACE IS ITS EVER INCREASING POPULARITY HOTELS ARE RELATIVELY THIN ON THE GROUND AND DURING THE HEIGHT OF THE SUMMER FESTIVAL ACCOMMODATION IS TIGHT AND PRICES INmATED
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2EGULAR FAST TRAINS ON THE 2OMEn!NCONA OR 2OMEn0ERUGIA ROUTINGS STOP AT 3POLETO AND THERE ARE REGULAR LOCAL LINKS WITH 4ERNI /RTE AND &OLIGNO &ROM THE STATION CITY BUSES SHUTTLE UNTIL AROUND PM TO 0IAZZA DELLA ,IBERTÌ IN THE 5PPER 4OWN BUY TICKETS + FROM THE STATION BAR AND NEWSPAPER STALL -OST INTER TOWN BUSES NOTABLY FROM -ONTEFALCO AND 0ERUGIA ARE RUN BY 3POLENTINA MOST TERMINATE IN THE 5PPER 4OWN AT 0IAZZA #ARDUCCI JUST SOUTH OF 0IAZZA DELLA ,IBERTÌ A FEW IN THE ,OWER 4OWN AT 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI "USES FROM .ORCIA AND THE 6ALNERINA ARRIVE AT THE TRAIN STATION )TS DIFlCULT TO PARK IN THE 5PPER 4OWN THE LIKELIEST SLOTS ARE ON 6IA DELLA 2OCCA 4HERE ARE LARGE CAR PARKS ON 6IA $ON 0 "ONILLI BY THE STADIUM AND 6IALE #AP PUCCINI SOUTH OF THE 'IARDINO 0UBBLICO 4HE LARGE TOURIST OFlCE 0IAZZA DELLA ,IBERTÌ n !PRILn/CT -ONn&RI AMnPM nPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM nPM .OVn-ARCH -ONn&RI AMnPM nPM 3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM INFO IATSPOLETOPGIT CAN GIVE HELP ON ACCOMMODATION AND DETAILS OF CULTURAL EVENTS AND HAS A HANDY PAMPHLET ON WALKING IN THE REGION INCLUDING A MAP FOR A ROUTE INTO THE -ONTELUCO WOODS WHICH STRETCH UNBROKEN SOME KM EAST OF TOWN
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!RRIVAL AND INFORMATION
!CCOMMODATION &OR SOME REASON 3POLETOS HOTELS CHARGE VASTLY DIFFERENT PRICES FOR DIFFER ENT ROOMS WITHIN A SINGLE ESTABLISHMENT IF THE ONE YOURE OFFERED SEEMS TOO EXPENSIVE ITS WORTH ASKING IF THERES ANYTHING CHEAPER 3EVERAL NEW HOTELS HAVE OPENED IN RECENT YEARS MOST OF THEM SUPERB HISTORIC PROPERTIES AND ALL IN THE UPPER PRICE BRACKETS !CCOMMODATION IS VERY HARD TO COME BY DURING THE SUM MER FESTIVAL SEE BOX P (OTELS !URORA 6IA DELL!POLLINARE WWWHOTELAURORASPOLETOIT %XCELLENT AND VERY POPULAR MID RANGE THREE STAR PLACE IN A COURTYARD
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THREE STAR WITH THE BONUS OF A lNE 5PPER 4OWN LOCATION BY THE CHURCH OF 3AN $OMENICO #LARICI 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDIn0IAZZA DELLA 6ITTORIA WWWHOTELCLARICICOM 2EASON ABLE AND COMFORTABLE BUT RATHER BASIC MODERN THREE STAR HOTEL SET JUST OUTSIDE THE 5PPER 4OWN WALLS $EI $UCHI 6IALE ' -ATTEOTTI WWWHOTELDEIDUCHICOM 4HE RELIABLE UPMARKET FOUR STAR ALTERNATIVE TO THE 'ATTAPONE SEE BELOW BUT NOWHERE NEAR AS NICE THOUGH ROOMS ARE AT TIMES A TOUCH CHEAPER #OMPRISES PERFECTLY COMFORTABLE MODERN ROOMS IN A HARD TO BEAT POSI TION JUST OFF 0IAZZA DELLA ,IBERTÌ 4HE BEST ROOMS ARE ON UPPER mOORS WITH VIEWS SOUTH TO THE HILLS $UE 0ORTE 0IAZZA DELLA 6ITTORIA ! MODERN lFTEEN ROOM TWO STAR IN A BIG BUSY AND POTENTIALLY NOISY ,OWER 4OWN PIAZZA JUST DOWN THE ROAD FROM THE TRAIN STATION 'ATTAPONE 6IA DEL 0ONTE WWWHOTELGATTAPONEIT /NE OF CENTRAL )TALYS NICEST AND MOST INTIMATE FOUR STAR HOTELS WHERE THE BIG NAME FESTIVAL PERFORMERS TEND TO STAY WITH A SUBLIME AND FAINT ROAD NOISE APART PEACEFUL SETTING LOOKING OVER TO -ONTELUCO 3PLASH OUT TO ENJOY VIEWS OVER THE GORGE AND 0ONTE DELLE 4ORRI .OTE THAT THERE ARE OLDER AND NEWER PARTS OF THIS CONVERTED COUNTRY RESIDENCE ALL HAVE VIEWS BUT YOUD DO WELL TO ASK TO SEE A SELECTION .EWER ROOMS ARE BETTER )L 0ANCIOLLE 6IA DEL $UOMO 3EVEN ROOMS EACH WITH PRIVATE BATHROOM ABOVE A NICE RESTAURANT IN A QUIETISH BUT CONVENIENT PART OF THE 5PPER 4OWN ! VERY GOOD TWO STAR OPTION .UOVO #LITUNNO 0IAZZA 3ORDINI WWWHOTELCLITUNNOCOM 4HE BEST VALUE MID RANGE THREE STAR IN THE 5PPER 4OWN JUST WEST OF 0IAZZA DELLA ,IBERTÌ 4HERES A WIDE PRICE DIFFEREN TIAL AMONG ITS ROOMS 0ALAZZO $RAGONI 6IA DEL $UOMO WWWPALAZZODRAGONI IT 4HIS GLORIOUS SIXTEENTH CENTURY CONVERTED TOWN HOUSE IS CLASSIlED AS A h2ESIDENZA D%POCAv ALTHOUGH FOR SOME BUREAUCRATIC REASON IT DOESNT MAKE IT INTO 5MBRIAS OFlCIAL HOTEL LISTINGS 4HIS MEANS IT REMAINS RELATIVELY UNKNOWN SO n BUDGET PERMITTING n YOU HAVE A GOOD CHANCE OF SNAPPING UP ONE OF ITS HANDFUL OF ELEGANT ROOMS WHICH ARE FULL OF FRESCOES ANTIQUE FURNITURE AND OTHER PERFECT PERIOD DETAILS ! DElNITE lRST CHOICE IN TOWN AT THE LUXURY END OF THE MARKET 0ALAZZO ,ETI 6IA DEGLI %REMITI WWWPALAZZOLETICOM 4HE 0ALAZZO ,ETI ANOTHER h2ESIDENZA D%POCAv OPENED IN AND COM BINES THE PERIOD SPLENDOUR OF THE 0ALAZZO $RAGONI WITH THE PEACEFUL POSITION AND GREAT VIEWS OF THE
NEARBY 'ATTAPONE 4HIS WINNING COMBINATION IS HIGHLY TEMPTING BUT IT DOESNT COME CHEAP 0ARADISO -ONTELUCO WWW ALBERGOPARADISONET ! FADED MODERN THREE STAR WITH ROOMS IN THE WOODED HILLS ABOVE 3POLETO n lNE IF YOU DONT FANCY IN TOWN OPTIONS OR THEIR ALTERNATIVES ON THE MAIN ROAD TO 4ERNI )TS A LONG TWISTING DRIVE UP HERE HOWEVER AND SO NOT THAT CONVENIENT FOR SIGHTSEEING 6ILLA 2EDENTA 6IA DI 6ILLA 2EDENTA WWWVILLAREDENTACOM 4HIS ,OWER 4OWN HOTEL A FORMER HOSTEL HAS ROOMS THAT ARE INEXPENSIVE BUT FAR FROM CONVENIENT &ROM THE STATION WALK THE LENGTH OF 6IALE 4RENTO E 4RIESTE THE ROAD THAT STRETCHES AWAY FROM THE FORECOURT AND TURN LEFT AT THE END ONTO 6IA &LAMINIA 6ECCHIA THE HOTEL IS ANOTHER SEVEN OR EIGHT MINUTES WALK ON THE LEFT ALMOST OPPOSITE 6IA DELLE ,ETTERE "US $ EVERY MIN RUNS CLOSE TO THE HOTEL FROM 0IAZZA DELLA ,IBERTÌ
0RIVATE ROOMS AND RELIGIOUS HOUSES #ASA !CCOGLIENZA 3AN 0ONZIANO 6IA DELLA "ASILI CA DI 3AN 3ALVATORE WWW SANPONZIANOIT ,OCATED IN THE ,OWER 4OWN FAR FROM THE CENTRE BY THE CHURCH OF 3AN 0ONZIANO n IDEAL IF YOU WANT TO SPEND TIME STUDYING THE 2OMAN ESQUE CHURCHES ON THE MONASTERY DOORSTEP (AS BEDS ARRANGED IN ROOMS DOUBLES COST + + FOR TRIPLES AND + FOR GENEROUS SIZED FAMILY FOUR BED ROOMS (ALF AND FULL BOARD DEALS ARE AVAILABLE )OLE 4OMASSONI 6IA #AVALLOTTI 4WO DOUBLES WITH BATHROOMS PER NIGHT )STITUTO "AMBINO 'ESá 6IA 3ANT!NGELO AT JUNCTION WITH 6IA -ONTERONE .INE SINGLES AND SIX DOUBLES ALL WITH BATHROOMS AT A RELIGIOUS INSTITUTION JUST SOUTHEAST AND DOWNHILL FROM THE CENTRAL 0IAZZA DELLA &ONTANA A SIMPLE HOTEL IN ALL BUT NAME .O MEALS ,A 4IRALLESCA 6IA &OCAROLI &IVE DOUBLES ALL WITH PRIVATE BATHROOMS PER NIGHT
#AMPSITES #AMPING -ONTELUCO PRIMAVER CARIBUSINESSIT 4HE NEAREST CAMPSITE TO TOWN JUST BEHIND THE CHURCH OF 3AN 0IETRO VERY PLEASANT BUT TINY JUST PITCHES !PRILn3EPT )L 'IRASOLE 0ETROGNANO WWW CAMPINGILGIRASOLECOM ! BIG mASHY AFFAIR LOCATED KM NORTHWEST OF 3POLETO HOURLY BUSES FROM THE TRAIN STATION WITH A PUBLIC SWIMMING POOL NEARBY AND TENNIS COURTS
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4HE ,OWER 4OWN
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3POLETOS ART FESTIVAL CREDENTIALS ARE IMMEDIATELY ESTABLISHED BY A RATHER GRO TESQUE MONUMENTAL SCULPTURE BY !LEXANDER #ALDER OUTSIDE THE TRAIN STATION ! RELIC OF THE FESTIVAL IT SERVES AS A GATEWAY TO THE ,OWER 4OWN A QUARTER MUCH REBUILT AFTER !LLIES INmICTED BOMB DAMAGE IN THE LAST WAR 4HE AREA DOES OFFER A TRIO OF OUTSTANDING 2OMANESQUE CHURCHES HOWEVER AS WELL AS A HANDFUL OF 2OMAN FRAGMENTS )F THESE DONT APPEAL CATCH THE CITY BUS OR TAKE A TAXI FROM THE STATION TO 0IAZZA DELLA ,IBERTÌ HEART OF THE OLD TOWN TEMPTING FROM THIS VANTAGE WITH ITS SKYLINE OF SPIRES AND TILED ROOFS AND SPLASHES OF CRAGGY COUNTRYSIDE THE lFTEEN MINUTE WALK IS REASONABLY ENJOYABLE TOO ONCE YOURE BEYOND THE CONCRETE OF 6IALE 4RENTO E 4RIESTE n THOUGH NOT ONE YOU WANT TO CONSIDER IN THE HEAT OF A SUMMER AFTERNOON (EAD UP #ORSO 'ARIBALDI FROM 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI FOR THE MOST DIRECT APPROACH ON FOOT
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&IRMLY ESTABLISHED AS )TALYS LEADING INTERNATIONAL ARTS FESTIVAL THE &ESTIVAL DEI $UE -ONDI n THE &ESTIVAL OF THE 4WO 7ORLDS n CAME TO 3POLETO IN WHEN COMPOSER 'IAN #ARLO -ENOTTI AND HIS ADVISERS CHOSE THE TOWN OVER THIRTY OTHER CONTENDERS ON ACCOUNT OF ITS SMALL VENUES OUTSTANDING SCENERY AND AN ARTISTIC HISTORICAL AND CULTURAL HERITAGE ALMOST WITHOUT EQUAL 4ODAY THE EVENT IS GENERALLY KNOWN SIMPLY AS THE 3POLETO &ESTIVAL -ENOTTIS ORIGINAL DREAM WAS TO COMBINE THE BEST OF YOUNG )TALIAN AND !MERICAN TALENT HENCE THE h4WO 7ORLDSv TAG AN IDEA WHICH EVENTUALLY SAW THE BIRTH OF A SISTER FESTIVAL IN #HARLESTON 3OUTH #AROLINA -ELBOURNE IN !USTRALIA ALSO CAME ON BOARD ALBEIT IN A HALF HEARTED WAY TO MAKE IT AN UNOFlCIAL &ESTIVAL OF THE 4HREE 7ORLDS 3POLETO HAS A PROBLEM HOWEVER n NAMELY WHAT HAPPENS WHEN ITS GURU IS GONE -ENOTTI IS NOW IN HIS NINETIES THOUGH THE ADVANCING YEARS HAVE DONE LITTLE TO MELLOW HIS AUTOCRATIC STYLE IN THE PAST HIS RELATIONS WITH 3POLETOS TOWN AUTHORITIES HAVE BEEN STRAINED THE MAESTROS AVOWEDLY INDEPENDENT APPROACH AT TIMES HAVING LED THE COUNCIL TO WITHHOLD SOME OF THE MONEY IT HAS TRADITIONALLY PLOUGHED INTO THE FESTIVAL -ATTERS WERENT HELPED WHEN -ENOTTI DECIDED TO lND A NICHE FOR HIS ADOPTED SON &RANCIS @@#HIP SUGGESTING HE SHOULD SERVE AS HIS SUCCESSOR #HIP IS NOW PRESIDENT AND ARTISTIC DIRECTOR OF THE FESTIVAL HIS FATHER ITS FOUNDER THE ROLES PROMINENTLY EMBLA ZONED ON LITERATURE AND WEBSITES JUST TO MAKE THINGS CLEAR &OR INFORMATION ON THE FESTIVAL VISIT WWWSPOLETOFESTIVALIT OR THE OFlCE AT 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO OR CALL TOLL FREE IN )TALY ONLY 4ICKETS CAN BE BOUGHT ONLINE OR THERE IS A BOX OFlCE AT 0IAZZA DELLA ,IBERTÌ OR 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM
3AN 3ALVATORE AND 3AN 0ONZIANO
/NE OF )TALYS OLDEST CHURCHES 3AN 3ALVATORE DAILY AMnPM -ARCH !PRIL 3EPT /CT CLOSES PM .OVn&EB CLOSES PM FREE LIES ON THE EDGE OF THE ,OWER 4OWN HALF HIDDEN IN THE CEMETERY A FAINTLY BIZARRE ATTRACTION IN ITS OWN RIGHT FOR THE GLIMPSE IT GIVES INTO THE )TALIAN WAY OF DEATH ,ITTLE HAS CHANGED IN THE CHURCH SINCE IT WAS BUILT BY MONKS FROM THE EASTERN -EDITERRANEAN IN THE FOURTH OR lFTH CENTURY ON A SITE PROBABLY CHOSEN FOR ITS PROXIMITY TO #HRISTIAN AND .EOLITHIC CATACOMBS -OST OF THE DECORATION AND BUILDING MATERIALS ARE 2OMAN AND IT WAS CONCEIVED WHEN THE ONLY MODELS FOR RELIGIOUS BUILDINGS WERE 2OMAN TEMPLES .OT SURPRISINGLY THE END RESULT HAS A DISTINCTLY PAGAN FEEL THE CHURCHS DUSTY GLOOMY INTERIOR EVOKING AN ALMOST EERIE ANTIQUITY 4HE WALLS ARE BARE THE mOORS COVERED IN FALLEN STONE THE CRUMBLING #ORINTHIAN COLUMNS ARE WEDGED AWKWARDLY ALONGSIDE ONE ANOTHER AND THE ARCHES IN THE NAVE HAVE BEEN
lLLED IN TO PREVENT TOTAL COLLAPSE 4HE APSE RINGED ROUND WITH 2OMAN FRIEZES AND CAPITALS IS A LATER ADDITION THAT GIVES THE CHURCHS UPPER HALF A CROWDED AND LOPSIDED APPEARANCE *UST A COUPLE OF MINUTES AWAY IS TWELFTH CENTURY 3AN 0ONZIANO DEDICATED TO 3POLETOS PATRON SAINT )TS 2OMANESQUE FRONTAGE PROMISES MUCH BUT DELIVERS LITTLE INSIDE !N ADMIRING GLANCE ARE ALL THE PLACE MERITS UNLESS YOU CAN TEMPT THE ENTHUSIASTIC AND VOLUBLE CARETAKER OUT OF HIS HOUSE ON THE LEFT TO SHOW YOU THE TENTH CENTURY CRYPT A FASCINATING STRUCTURE OF ODD TRIANGULAR COLUMNS BELIEVED TO BE METAE TURNING POSTS FROM A 2OMAN CIRCO RACE TRACK BACKED BY WELL PRESERVED PATCHES OF "YZANTINE FRESCO 3AN 'REGORIO AND !NlTEATRO 2OMANO
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!CROSS THE RIVER IN 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI 3AN 'REGORIO DAILY AMnNOON nPM CLOSED 3UN nPM FREE DATES FROM AT THE LATEST BUT PARTS LOOK AS IF THEY WERE BUILT YESTERDAY A RESULT OF RESTORATION AFTER YEARS OF lRE mOOD AND EARTHQUAKE DAMAGE )TS NARROW PORTICOED FACADE INCORPORATES A PATCHWORK OF FRAGMENTS lLCHED FROM 2OMAN REMAINS 4HE PRAGMATIC MIX OF MATERIALS IS MOST OBVIOUS IN THE TOWER ITS LOWER HALF BUILT OF MASSIVE 2OMAN BLOCKS THE UPPER OF MORE RElNED lFTEENTH CENTURY WORKMANSHIP 4HE SIMILARLY PATCHWORKED PORTICO WAS A SIXTEENTH CENTURY AFTERTHOUGHT ADDED WHEN THE CHURCH WAS HEIGHTENED TO IMITATE THE $UOMO IN THE 5PPER 4OWN 4HE INTERIOR COMMANDS MOST INTEREST ITS WALLS STRIPPED BACK TO THEIR 2OMANESQUE STATE WITH SUBSTANTIAL FRESCOES INTERRUPTED BY A SERIES OF INTIMIDATING STONE CONFESSION ALS 4HE FRESCOES ARE LOCAL FOURTEENTH CENTURY EFFORTS THE BEST OF THEM IN THE PRESBYTERY WHICH IS RAISED SEVERAL METRES ABOVE THE NAVE ALLOWING FOR A CRYPT SUPPORTED BY DOZENS OF TINY MISMATCHED PILLARS 4RADITION HAS IT THAT SOMEWHERE UNDER THE CHURCH ARE THE BONES OF TEN THOU SAND #HRISTIAN MARTYRS KILLED BY THE 2OMANS IN THE AMPHITHEATRE CLOSE BY THE CHAPEL ALONGSIDE THE PORTICO THE #APPELLA DEGLI )NNOCENTI IS THE FAVOURED CANDIDATE FOR THEIR RESTING PLACE 0ARTS OF THE AMPHITHEATRE ARE STILL VISIBLE IN THE BARRACKS ON 6IA DELL!NlTEATRO .O ONE SEEMS TO MIND IF YOU WALK STRAIGHT INTO THE COMPLEX WHICH WAS FORMERLY A MONASTERY BEAR RIGHT FROM THE MAIN GATE WAY FOR THE MOST SUBSTANTIAL REMAINS 7HEN THE 2OMANS PASSED ON THE HUGE ARENA WAS CANNIBALIZED FOR ITS STONE lRST BY 4OTILA AND THEN BY #ARDINAL !LBOR NOZ FOR THE CASTLE IN THE 5PPER 4OWN 7HAT REMAINED WAS ADAPTED AS A MEDIEVAL SHOPPING ARCADE AND LATER BRICKED UP IN THE COURTYARD YOU SEE TODAY 4HE EVER INGENIOUS 2OMANS CONSTRUCTED SPECIAL GUTTERS TO DRAIN BLOOD FROM THE ARENA INTO THE 4ESSINO RIVER WHICH RAN CRIMSON AS A RESULT 4HE LIBERAL mOW OF #HRISTIAN BLOOD IS SAID TO HAVE INSPIRED THE NAME FOR THE 2OMAN 0ONTE 3AN GUINARIO NOW UNDER NEARBY 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI )T FORMED PART OF THE IMPROVE MENTS TO THE 6IA &LAMINIA ORDERED BY THE %MPEROR !UGUSTUS REMAINING IN USE UNTIL THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY AND REDISCOVERED IN -UCH REMAINS INTACT BELOW THE PIAZZA BUT n CONTRARY TO GUIDEBOOK ADVICE n THE SITE HAS BEEN SHUT FOR YEARS 3POLETOS COUNCIL HAS TRIED TO OPERATE REGULAR HOURS DAILY AMnPM nPM THOUGH DONT BE SURPRISED TO lND THAT ALL YOU CAN SEE IS A GLIMPSE OF A SINGLE ARCH THROUGH CLOSED RAILINGS
4HE 5PPER 4OWN
4HE PLACE TO HEAD FOR lRST IN THE 5PPER 4OWN IS 0IAZZA DELLA ,IBERTÌ THE TERMINUS FOR A LOCAL AND INTER TOWN BUS SERVICE AND HOME TO THE LARGE TOUR IST OFlCE AND POST OFlCE /RIENTATION IS DIFlCULT IN THE JUMBLE OF LEVELS AND TWISTING NARROW STREETS AROUND THOUGH EVERYTHING WORTHWHILE IS A SHORT WALK
FROM 0IAZZA DELLA ,IBERTÌ 3HOPS BANKS AND SERVICES ARE MOSTLY CONCENTRATED IN #ORSO -AZZINI WHICH RUNS NORTH FROM THE SQUARE AND IN #ORSO 'ARIB ALDI WHICH DROPS DOWN TO 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI #ORSO -AZZINI IS THE SCENE OF A RUMBUSTIOUS PASSEGGIATA 3UNDAYS WALK BEING A PARTICULARLY lNE SPECTACLE BUT FOR THE DAY TO DAY SOCIAL HEART OF THE TOWN YOU NEED TO MAKE FOR 0IAZZA DEL -ERCATO SITE OF THE OLD 2OMAN FORUM 0IAZZA DELLA ,IBERTÌ
0IAZZA DEL -ERCATO
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3TRADDLING THE ENTRANCE TO THE NEARBY 0IAZZA DEL -ERCATO n THE OLD FORUM n IS THE !RCO DI $RUSO RAISED IN !$ BY THE 3POLETAN SENATE TO COMMEMORATE VICTORIES IN 'ERMANY BY $RUSUS SON OF 4IBERIUS AND HEIR TO THE EMPIRE UNTIL HIS EARLY DEATH COURTESY OF #ALIGULA 4HE WALLS HEREABOUTS AND IN 6IA DEI &ELICI ARE THE CITYS OLDEST BUILT IN THE SIXTH CENTURY "# BY THE MYSTERIOUS 5MBRIANS "ESIDE THE ARCH IS WHATS DESCRIBED AS A 2OMAN TEMPLE AND SHOP THOUGH YOULL NEED A VIVID IMAGINATION TO SEE IT AS ANYTHING OTHER THAN A DITCH (OW EVER ITS WELL WORTH POPPING INTO THE ADJACENT CHURCH OF 3ANT!NSANO DAILY AMnNOON nPM .OVn-ARCH CLOSES PM FREE FOR THE #RIPTA DI 3AN )SACCO ENTERED DOWN THE STAIRS TO THE LEFT OF THE HIGH ALTAR WHERE FRAGMENTS OF THE TEMPLE HAVE BEEN UNCOVERED !S WELL AS CONTAINING MORE PERSUASIVE CHUNKS OF THE TEMPLE THAN LIE OUTSIDE THE CRUDE STONE WALLS ARE DECORATED WITH RECENTLY RESTORED FRESCOES THAT MAY DATE FROM THE SIXTH CENTURY A TIME WHEN THE SPOT WAS HOME TO REFUGEE #HRISTIAN MONKS 4HE MAIN STRUCTURE DATES FROM THE TWELFTH CENTURY .OWHERE DO YOU GET A BETTER SENSE OF 3POLETOS MARKET TOWN ROOTS THAN IN THE COSY 0IAZZA DEL -ERCATO )N THE SQUARE OLD WOMEN WASH FRUIT AND VEGETABLES IN THE STRIKING FOUNTAIN ITS CROWN EMBELLISHED WITH AN ATTRACTIVE CLOCK THE MEN DRINK IN THE BARS AND SWAP GOSSIP AND TOURISTS MAKE BARELY A DENT IN THE PROCEEDINGS 4HE LEFT HAND CREST OF THE COAT OF ARMS ATOP THE FOUNTAIN
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&OR AN INTRODUCTION TO 3POLETOS MUCH TOUTED 2OMAN HERITAGE YOU ONLY HAVE TO CROSS 0IAZZA DELLA ,IBERTÌ FROM THE TOURIST OFlCE (ERE YOU CAN LOOK THROUGH THE RAILINGS AT THE MUCH RESTORED lRST CENTURY 2OMAN THEATRE EXCA VATED IN AND NOW USED FOR FESTIVAL AND OTHER PERFORMANCES THROUGHOUT THE SUMMER )TS PAST INCLUDES A GRISLY EPISODE IN WHEN FOUR HUNDRED 'UELPH SUPPORTERS WERE ROUNDED UP BY THE 3POLETANS AND DUMPED ON THE STAGE WITH THEIR THROATS CUT THE CORPSES WERE THEN PUSHED INTO A PILE AND BURNT 4ODAY ITS A TRImE OVERSHADOWED BY THE GAUDILY PAINTED BUILDINGS ON ALL SIDES THE WORST OF THESE OFFENDERS THE CHURCH AND CONVENT OF 3ANT!GATA ABSORBED MUCH OF THE STAGE AREA IN THE -IDDLE !GES THE THEATRE HAVING BEEN DAMAGED AND HALF BURIED OVER THE CENTURIES BY LANDSLIPS 4HE CONVENTUAL BUILDINGS NOW HOUSE A RESTORATION CENTRE AND MODEST -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO DAILY AMnPM + ENTERED FROM JUST DOWN 6IA 3ANT!GATA BEYOND AN ATTRACTIVE LITTLE MEDIEVAL LOGGIA 4HE TICKET INCLUDES ADMISSION TO THE THEATRE WITH ITS EXTRAORDINARY VAULTED TUNNEL BENEATH THE TIERED SEATS 9OU THEN CLIMB THE STEPS TO THE MUSEUM WHICH OPENS WITH TWO SMALL ROOMS DISPLAYING AMONG OTHER ARTEFACTS A SUPERB SHIELD RINGS AND OTHER FRAGMENTS FROM A "RONZE !GE TOMB DISCOVERED IN 0IAZZA D!RMI .EXT DOOR TO THE RIGHT IS A LONGER ROOM GRACED WITH A lNE FRESCO THE ,AST 3UPPER AND A WELL PRESENTED GALLERY OF 2OMAN PORTRAIT BUSTS AND MISCELLANEOUS STATUARY ! SMALL ANNEXE AT THE END IS DEVOTED TO THE REMARKABLE ,EX 3POLETINA A PAIR OF TAWNY BROWN 2OMAN STONE INSCRIPTIONS THAT FORBADE THE FELLING OF TREES IN THE SACRED WOODS OF -ONTELUCO
MONUMENT BUILT BY #ARLO -ADERNO IN FOR 0OPE 5RBAN 6))) FEATURES THREE BEES SYMBOLS OF THE "ARBERINI THE 2OMAN FAMILY FROM WHICH 5RBAN HAILED 4HE ALIMENTARI DOTTED AROUND THE SQUARE ARE A CORNUCOPIA OF PICNIC PROVISIONS WITH A BIAS TOWARDS TRUFmES OILS AND STICKY LIQUEURS 4HE PIAZZAS LITTLE OPEN MARKET RUNS IN THE MORNINGS -ONn3AT AMnPM BUT THERES ALMOST MORE GOING ON LATE IN THE EVENING WHEN THE OUTDOOR TABLES OF THE MAIN BAR ON THE WEST SIDE ARE THE BEST PLACE FOR IN TOWN SUMMER DRINKING 4HE $UOMO
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)TS A SHORT WALK FROM 0IAZZA DEL -ERCATO TO THE $UOMO OR 3ANTA -ARIA !SSUNTA DAILY AMnPM nPM .OVn&EB CLOSES PM FREE WHOSE RESTRAINED AND ELEGANT FACADE IS ONE OF THE LOVELIEST IN 5MBRIA 4HE CAREFUL BAL ANCE OF 2OMANESQUE AND 2ENAISSANCE ELEMENTS IS FRAMED BY A GENTLY SLOPING PIAZZA AND HANGING GARDENS WITH THE BROAD BACKGROUND OF SKY AND OPEN COUN TRYSIDE SETTING THE SEAL ON THE BEAUTIFULLY UNIlED WHOLE 4HE LOVELY CARVING SWATHED PORTICO AN OBVIOUS ADDITION DATES FROM AND IS mANKED BY TWO LITTLE EXTERNAL PULPITS ONE OF WHICH WAS USED BY THE WANDERING 3T "ERNARDINO OF 3IENA TO PREACH TO THE NOTORIOUSLY WAYWARD 3POLETANS 4HE BUILDING WAS CONSECRATED IN HAVING BEEN COMMISSIONED BY 0OPE )NNOCENT ))) TO REPLACE A SEVENTH CENTURY CHURCH mATTENED BY "ARBAROSSA 4HE TWELFTH CENTURY CAMPANILE WITH lFTEENTH AND SIXTEENTH CENTURY ADDITIONS BORROWED MUCH OF ITS STONE FROM 2OMAN RUINS A HOTCHPOTCH TECHNIQUE CON TINUED IN THE REST OF THE BUILDING !RCHITECTURAL DETAILS UNUSUAL IN )TALY ADD INTEREST FOR THE TECHNICALLY MINDED MOST NOTABLY THE mYING BUTTRESSES TUCKED OUT OF SIGHT ON THE SIDE WALLS CLIMB TO 0IAZZA & #AMPELLO TO THE RIGHT FOR THE BEST VIEW 3TRANGE TOO ARE THE EIGHT ROSE WINDOWS CLUSTERED AROUND A RESTORED THIRTEENTH CENTURY MOSAIC OF #HRIST THE 6IRGIN AND 3T *OHN ,ESS SUCCESSFUL TRANSFORMATIONS WERE COMMISSIONED FOR THE INTERIOR WHERE 0OPE 5RBAN 6)))S ARCHITECT ,UIGI !RRIGUCCI APPLIED GREAT DOLLOPS OF "AROQUE MIDWAY THROUGH THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY 5RBAN n NAMED -AFFEO "ARBERINI n HAD BEEN BISHOP OF 3POLETO BEFORE BECOMING POPE HIS IMPETUS AND THE MONEY OF A NEPHEW ANOTHER OF THE TOWNS BISHOPS lNANCED THE WORKS AND PAID FOR A "ERNINI BUST OF 5RBAN NOW IN THE -USEO $IOCESANO SEE P /N THE lRST ALTAR ON THE LEFT BEHIND GLASS STANDS A BRIGHTLY RESTORED #RUCIlX BY !LBERTO 3OTIO THE EARLIEST DOCUMENTED 5MBRIAN PAINTER 7ALKING ACROSS TO THE RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THE CHURCH LOOK IN ON THE #APPELLA %ROLI NAMED AFTER THE 3POLETAN BISHOP #OSTANTINO %ROLI IT FEATURES 0INTURICCHIOS FADED BUT BEAUTIFULLY LYRICAL -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH THE "APTIST AND 3T 3TEPHEN WITH A DEPICTION OF ,AGO 4RASIMENO IN THE BACKGROUND )N THE LARGER #APPELLA DELL!SSUNTA OR %ROLI ADJOINING TO ITS RIGHT ARE CRUDER BUT NONETHELESS STRIK ING FRESCOES BY THE 3ICILIAN *ACOPO 3ANTORI THAT ON THE LEFT WALL SHOWS ANOTHER %ROLI BISHOP &RANCESCO WHO COMMISSIONED THE CHAPEL AT THE BEGINNING OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY KNEELING BEFORE A SEPARATE INSET PAINTING OF THE -ADONNA 4HE WALL TO ITS RIGHT HAS FRESCOES OF SAINTS n -ICHAEL THE !RCHANGEL WITH SWORD AND ,UCY A POPULAR 3POLETAN SAINT FARTHER RIGHT THE WALL IS ADORNED WITH THE %ROLI FAMILY SHIELDS "ACK ACROSS THE CHURCH IS THE #APPELLA DELLE 2ELIQUIE ENTERED AT THE TOP OF THE LEFT AISLE 2ESTORED IN IT FEATURES IMPRESSIVE INTARSIA WORK VIVID PAINTED PANELS THAT DEPICT CHARACTERS FROM THE /LD 4ESTAMENT AND SOME BEAUTIFULLY FRES COED CEILING VAULTS 4HE VAULTS AND PANELS ARE THE WORK OF &RANCESCO .ARDINI AN OTHERWISE LITTLE KNOWN SIXTEENTH CENTURY PAINTER /N THE RIGHT IS AN OUTSTAND ING FOURTEENTH CENTURY POLYCHROME WOODEN STATUE THE -ADONNA AND #HILD 4O ITS RIGHT BEHIND GLASS IN A GAUDY BLUE COLUMNED FRAME IS A FRAGMENTARY LETTER
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IN ,ATIN WRITTEN BY 3T &RANCIS TO &RA ,EONE ONE OF THE SAINTS EARLIEST AND MOST BESOTTED FOLLOWERS HE HOARDED VIRTUALLY EVERY SCRAP AND RELIC ASSOCIATED WITH &RANCIS )T IS ONE OF ONLY TWO LETTERS WRITTEN BY THE SAINT TO HAVE SURVIVED AND WAS WRITTEN AFTER &RANCIS RECEIVED THE STIGMATA AT ,A 6ERNA SEE P BY WHICH TIME HE WAS VIRTUALLY BLIND n HENCE THE SHAKY HANDWRITING )T SALUTES ,EONE AND WISHES HIM PEACE THE WORD PACEM IS CLEARLY VISIBLE NEAR THE BEGINNING URGING HIM TO FOLLOW HIS OWN CONSCIENCE IN MATTERS OF FAITH RATHER THAN CONSTANTLY COMING TO &RANCIS FOR ADVICE )T WAS ORIGINALLY KEPT IN A 3POLETAN CHURCH BUT VANISHED FOR CENTURIES AFTER ITS lRST PUBLICATION IN MYSTERIOUSLY REAPPEAR ING IN THE 6ATICAN ARCHIVES DURING THE REIGN OF 0OPE ,EO 8))) )T WAS RESTORED TO THE CITY IN !LL OTHER WORKS OF ART IN THE CATHEDRAL ARE ECLIPSED BY THE BUILDINGS ORIGINAL MARBLE mOOR AND BY MAGNIlCENT FRESCOES ON THE ,IFE OF THE 6IRGIN PAINTED IN BY &ILIPPO ,IPPI AND HIS ASSISTANTS &RA $IAMANTI AND 0IER -ATTEO 4HE NEWLY RESTORED CYCLE lLLS THE DOMED APSE STARTING FROM THE LEFT WALL WITH 4HE !NNUNCIATION AND 4HE $ORMITION OF THE 6IRGIN THE LATTER WITH PORTRAITS OF THE THREE PAINTERS TO THE RIGHT ,IPPI IS THE lGURE WITH THE WHITE MONKS HABIT OVER A BLACK TUNIC 4HE CYCLE CONCLUDES WITH THE .ATIVITY MOSTLY BY -ATTEO AND $IAMANTI WHILE ABOVE SPREADS THE MOST GLITTERING SCENE OF ALL THE #ORONATION OF THE 6IRGIN .OTE THE COLUMNS AND CLASSICAL MOTIFS SEPARATING THE PANELS MANY OF WHICH ,IPPI COPIED DIRECTLY FROM OLD BUILDINGS AROUND 3POLETO NOTABLY THE CHURCH OF 3AN 3ALVATORE IN THE ,OWER 4OWN ,IPPI DIED SHORTLY AFTER THE CYCLES COMPLETION THE RUMOUR BEING THAT HE WAS POISONED FOR SEDUCING THE DAUGHTER OF A LOCAL NOBLE FAMILY 4HE 3POLETAN CATHEDRAL AUTHORITIES NOT TOO BOTHERED BY SUCH MORAL LAXITY WERE DELIGHTED TO HAVE SOMEONE FAMOUS TO PUT IN THEIR CATHEDRAL BEING AS 6ASARI PUT IT hPOORLY PROVIDED WITH DISTINGUISHED MENv 4HUS THEY REFUSED TO SEND THE DEAD ARTIST BACK TO ,ORENZO DE -EDICI HIS PATRON WHO HAD LOANED &ILIPPO TO 3POLETO REPUTEDLY TO STOP HIS &LORENTINE PHILANDERING )NTERRED IN A TOMB DESIGNED BY HIS SON &ILIPPINO ,IPPI THE CORPSE DISAPPEARED DURING RESTORATION TWO CENTURIES LATER SPIRITED AWAY ACCORDING TO LOCAL LEGEND BY DESCENDANTS OF THE COMPRO MISED GIRL 4HE EMPTY TOMB IS ON THE LEFT WALL OF THE RIGHT SOUTH TRANSEPT -INOR TITBITS ELSEWHERE IN THE CATHEDRAL INCLUDE A BRONZE OF 5RBAN 6))) BY "ERNINI TOO HIGH ABOVE THE MAIN DOOR TO GET A GOOD LOOK AT AND AN ICON FROM #ONSTANTINOPLE PRESENTED BY "ARBAROSSA IN TO MAKE AMENDS FOR HAVING WRECKED THE TOWN THIRTY YEARS EARLIER ITS HOUSED IN THE CHAPEL BELOW THE ORGAN LOFT TO THE REAR AND RIGHT OF THE HIGH ALTAR )F YOU MANAGE TO CHAT UP THE SACRISTAN YOU MIGHT ALSO IF LUCKY BE ABLE TO SEE THE NINTH CENTURY CRYPT OF 3AN 0RIMIANO PART OF THE EARLIER CHURCH ON THE SITE DESTROYED BY "ARBAROSSA 3ANT%UFEMIA
3POLETOS MOST CELEBRATED CHURCH IS THE TWELFTH CENTURY 3ANT%UFEMIA INTE RIOR VISITED WITH -USEO $IOCESANO SEE BELOW ABOVE 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO IN 6IA !URELIO 3AFl 4HE ENTRANCE IS EASILY MISSED AS THE CHURCH LIES INSIDE A COURTYARD COMPLEX OFF THE STREET LOOK OUT FOR THE YELLOW SIGNS 4HE CHURCH WAS PROBABLY BUILT IN HONOUR OF A LOCAL BISHOP 3T 'IOVANNI WHO WAS MARTYRED BY THE 'OTHS AND REPUTEDLY BURIED HERE IN ON A SITE WITHIN BOTH THE PRECINCTS OF THE OLD "ENEDICTINE MONASTERY AND THE ARCHBISHOPS PALACE %XCAVATIONS HAVE REVEALED THAT IT ALSO LIES OVER THE ,OMBARDS EIGHTH CENTURY DUCAL PALACE AND 2OMAN REMAINS HAVE BEEN FOUND TOO 'OOD USE WAS OBVIOUSLY MADE OF MATERIALS FROM THESE PREVIOUS BUILDINGS ONE OF THE MISMATCHED COLUMNS n THAT SEPARATING THE lRST AND SECOND ARCHES ON THE RIGHT n IS CARVED WITH DISTINCTIVE ,OMBARD MOTIFS -ANY OF THE MISMATCHED CAPITALS
TOO ARE ALSO CLEARLY FROM AN EARLIER BUILDING 4HE CHURCH IS UNIQUE IN 5MBRIA FOR ITS MATRONEUM A HIGH ARCHED GALLERY ABOVE THE AISLES REACHED FROM A TINY DOOR AT THE BEGINNING OF THE LEFT AISLE WHICH SERVED THE PURPOSE OF SEGREGATING THE WOMEN OF THE CONGREGATION FROM THE MEN 2EBUILDING TOOK PLACE IN THE EARLY PART OF THE TWELFTH CENTURY WHEN NORTHERN )TALIAN MODELS WERE USED AS INSPIRATION n THE CURRENT STRUCTURE BEARS A STRIKING RESEMBLANCE FOR EXAMPLE TO THE CHURCH OF 3AN ,ORENZO IN 6ERONA 4ODAY 3ANT%UFEMIA IS REDOLENT WITH AGE AND DANK SOLEMNITY ITS WALLS BARE BUT FOR THE ODD PATCH OF FRESCO NOTABLY ANOTHER 3T ,UCY COMPLETE WITH EYES IN A BOWL ON THE SECOND COLUMN ON THE RIGHT THE CHURCH WAS EVEN KNOWN AS 3ANTA ,UCIA FOR SEVERAL CENTURIES 4HE ONLY OTHER FRILLS ARE A STONE CHAIR AND SIMPLE BUT STUNNING ALTAR BOTH BROUGHT FROM THE $UOMO IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY 2ECENTLY EXHIBITIONS OF MODERN ART HAVE BEGUN TO BE INSTALLED IN 3ANT%UFEMIA AND YOU NOW HAVE TO PAY TO ENTER THE CHURCH THE ONLY SAVING GRACE BEING THAT PROCEEDS GO TO WORTHY CAUSES 4HE -USEO $IOCESANO
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4HE EXCELLENT -USEO $IOCESANO D!RTE 3ACRA !PRILn/CT -ON 7EDn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM nPM .OVn-ARCH -ON 7EDn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM + OCCUPIES THE SAME COURTYARD AS 3ANT%UFEMIA AND DISPLAYS A WEALTH OF FASCINATING PAINTINGS AND OTHER ARTEFACTS CULLED FROM CHURCHES ACROSS THE DIOCESE -OST OF THESE WORKS n MANY REMOVED AFTER THE EARTHQUAKE WHICH RAVAGED THE 6ALNERINA n ARE DUE TO BE RETURNED TO THEIR RESPECTIVE CHURCHES THOUGH THE PREVAILING VIEW IS THAT THEYVE BEEN IN 3POLETO FOR SO LONG THAT THEYLL PROBABLY REMAIN IN THE MUSEUM /N THE WALL TO YOUR RIGHT AS YOU ENTER ROOM IS A THIRTEENTH CENTURY TRIP TYCH OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD JUXTAPOSING THREE SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF #HRIST WITH A PANEL BOTTOM LEFT SHOWING 3T -ARTIN DIVIDING HIS CLOAK AND GIVING ONE HALF TO A BEGGAR LATER REVEALED TO BE #HRIST )N ROOM THE STRANGE -ADONNA AND #HILD TO YOUR LEFT SHOWS THE #HILD IN THE BROWN HABIT AND TRIPLE KNOTTED BELT OF THE &RANCISCANS .EARBY IS A THIRTEENTH CENTURY DOSSAL ONCE USED AS THE REAR WALL OF A CONFESSIONAL HENCE ITS FADED APPEARANCE AND THE CLEAR EVIDENCE OF ITS HAVING BEEN SAWN INTO PIECES AT SOME POINT /N THE WALL BESIDE THE ENTRANCE IS A TRIPTYCH WITH 3T ,UCY DEPICTED TO THE RIGHT OF THE CENTRAL PANELS #RUCIlXION 4HE SAINT A FOURTH CENTURY MARTYR FROM 3ICILY WAS MUCH VENERATED IN 3POLETO AND THE 6ALNERINA 3HE WAS KILLED FOR REFUSING TO MARRY A HIGH RANKING PAGAN 2OMAN MAGISTRATE THE SPURNED OFlCIAL HAVING HER DRAGGED BEHIND TWO OXEN AND THEN BOILED ALIVE ON HEARING THAT THE MAGISTRATE HAD BEEN CAPTIVATED BY THE BEAUTY OF HER EYES ,UCY IS REPUTED TO HAVE TORN THEM OUT AND SENT THEM TO HER TORMENTOR HENCE HER USUAL DEPICTION HOLDING A DISH CONTAINING A PAIR OF EYES )N THE NEXT PAINTING ALSO A TRIPTYCH THREE EPISODES FROM ,UCYS LIFE MAKE UP THE PREDELLA GIVING TO THE POOR HER DENUNCIATION IN FRONT OF THE GOVERNOR OF 3YRACUSE AND HER ORDEAL BY OXEN 4O ITS LEFT A TRIPTYCH WITH SAINTS 3EBASTIAN AND #ATHERINE OF !LEXANDRIA IS ATTRIBUTED TO THE SAME PAINTER AS THE PREVI OUS WORK "ARTOLOMEO DA -IRANDA ACTIVE LOCALLY IN THE MID lFTEENTH CENTURY 3EBASTIAN WAS OFTEN INVOKED AGAINST PLAGUE AND THIS PAINTING WAS PROBABLY A VOTIVE OFFERING DURING AN EPIDEMIC A THEORY REINFORCED BY THE GREEN OF THE 6IRGINS CLOAK AS OPPOSED TO THE MORE USUAL BLUE A COLOUR SYMBOLIZING REBIRTH AS WELL AS BEING ASSOCIATED WITH (OPE ONE OF THE THREE 4HEOLOGICAL 6IRTUES 2OOM FEATURES THE GALLERYS SINGLE GREATEST PAINTING A SUBLIME FREESTAND ING -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 33 -ONTANO AND "ARTHOLOMEW BY &ILIPPINO ,IPPI )TS STRANGE ENOUGH THAT ,IPPI A &LORENTINE SHOULD HAVE PAINTED IN
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3 0/, % 4/ ! . $ 4 ( % 6! , .% 2 ) .! 3POLETO
5MBRIA AND STRANGER STILL THAT THE PAINTING SHOULD HAVE BEEN COMMISSIONED FOR 4ODIANO A NOW ALMOST DESERTED VILLAGE LOST IN THE DEPTHS OF THE 6ALNERINA SEE P 4HE THEORY IS THAT IT WAS COMMISSIONED BY A MERCHANT WHO LEFT THE VILLAGE AND GREW WEALTHY AS A RESULT OF TRADE "ARTHOLOMEW AND -ONTANO ARE 4ODIANOS PATRON SAINTS THE LATTER BEST KNOWN FOR HAVING TAMED A BEAR AND COMMANDED IT TO TAKE THE PLACE OF AN OX IT HAD DEVOURED 4HE LITTLE SCENE IN THE PREDELLA SHOWS THE BEAR ALONGSIDE AN OX PULLING A PLOUGH 4HE PARALLEL PREDELLA SCENE TO THE RIGHT SHOWS 3T "ARTHOLOMEW WITH HIS SKIN SLUNG OVER HIS SHOULDER THE SAINT WAS mAYED ALIVE /PPOSITE IS ANOTHER PREMIER PAINTING !DORATION OF THE #HILD BY THE 3IENESE -ANNERIST $OMENICO "ECCAFUMI AND THE ROOM ALSO HOLDS ANOTHER FREESTANDING 4USCAN WORK .ERI DI "ICCIS -ADONNA DELLA .EVE AN EXCELLENT EXAMPLE OF A RELATIVELY COMMON THEME THE NEVE SNOW REFERRING TO THE MIRACULOUS FALL OF SNOW IN 2OME IN !UGUST WHICH IS TRADITION ALLY SAID TO HAVE MARKED OUT THE SITE OF THE CITYS ANCIENT "ASILICA DI 3ANTA -ARIA -AGGIORE )TS PRESENCE HERE IS EXPLAINED BY THE STRONG MEDIEVAL TRADING LINKS BETWEEN 3POLETO AND 2OME ,EFT OF THE ,IPPI PAINTING A DOOR LEADS INTO ROOM WHERE ON YOUR LEFT IS A -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 33 3EBASTIAN AND ,EONARD 3EBASTIAN UNUSUALLY IS SHOWN HOLDING A CLUTCH OF ARROWS RATHER THAN BEING SHOT THROUGH WITH THEM AN ALLU SION TO THE FACT THAT HE RECOVERED FROM HIS ORDEAL BY ARCHERY HE WAS MARTYRED BY BEING PUMMELLED TO DEATH 3T ,EONARD IS RARELY PORTRAYED IN CENTRAL )TALIAN ART ,ITTLE IS KNOWN OF THIS SIXTH CENTURY lGURE OTHER THAN THAT HIS FAITH PER SUADED +ING #LOVIS TO GRANT HIM THE RIGHT TO RELEASE ANY PRISONER HE MET !S A RESULT HE IS THE PATRON SAINT OF PRISONERS WHO WOULD TRADITIONALLY HAVE MADE A VOTIVE OFFERING OF A SHACKLE TO THE SAINT ON THEIR RELEASE n WHICH IS WHY HE IS SHOWN IN THIS PAINTING HOLDING A VAST LEG IRON /THER WORKS HERE INCLUDE AN !NNUNCIATION AND $EPOSITION BY !NDREA DA #ALDAROBA AND A WORK IN A SMALL ADJOINING ROOM BY 3PARPANE A RARE LOCAL PAINTER WHOSE WORK YOU CAN SEE IN .ORCIAS 3AN "ENEDETTO SEE P AND IN THE LONELY REACHES OF THE 6AL #ASTO RIANA AT #AMPI 6ECCHI SEE P 2ETRACING YOUR STEPS BEAR RIGHT THROUGH THE LARGE ROOM BEYOND ROOM WHICH n LIKE MUCH OF THE MUSEUM BUILDING n HAS A STUPENDOUS CARVED WOODEN CEILING $ONT LET THE FOUR GLOOMY CANVASES IN THE FAR CORNER DISTRACT YOU FROM THE LARGE BUST OF 0OPE 5RBAN 6))) BY THE "AROQUE GENIUS 'IANLORENZO "ER NINI REMOVED FROM THE CATHEDRAL 0AST ROOMS WITH VESTMENTS A DOOR UNEXPECT EDLY OPENS INTO THE UPPER GALLERY OR MATRONEUM OF 3ANT%UFEMIA OFFERING A WONDERFUL VIEW OF THE CHURCH 4HE MUSEUM IS IN THE PROCESS OF BEING REORGANIZED AND SOME WORKS WHICH HAVE BEEN ON DISPLAY IN PAST YEARS HAD YET TO REAPPEAR AT THE TIME OF WRITING 4HESE INCLUDE A SERIES OF CONTRASTING WOODEN STATUES OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD AS WELL AS AN UNUSUAL STATUE OF #HRIST WITH MOVABLE ARMS LIKE THE SIMILAR STATUE IN 3PELLOS 0INACOTECA IT WAS USED IN %ASTER 7EEK CEREMONIES WHEN THE ARMS WERE EXTENDED DURING PROCESSIONS ON 'OOD &RIDAY TO MARK THE #RUCIlXION ON %ASTER 3UNDAY THE ARMS WERE LOWERED DURING CEREMONIES TO CELEBRATE THE 2ES URRECTION !LSO TO COME IS AN EXQUISITE SMALL -ADONNA AND #HILD AN ANONYMOUS &LORENTINE WORK AND DETACHED FRESCOES NOTABLY A 3T -ICHAEL WITH THE $EVIL JUST VISIBLE AT THE BOTTOM TRYING TO TILT THE SCALES IN WHICH -ICHAEL IS WEIGHING THE SOULS OF SINNERS AND THE SAVED -OST ENTERTAINING OF THESE WORKS IN LIMBO ARE NUMEROUS DECORATED WOODEN TILES A SERIES OF EX VOTOS PAINTED WITH OFTEN AMUSING CARTOON LIKE DEPICTIONS OF SICK BED SCENES AND ESCAPES FROM PERILOUS AND NOT SO PERILOUS EPISODES FOR WHICH THE TILES GIVE THANKS 4HESE SHOW EVENTS SUCH AS WOMEN BEING GORED BY BULLS AND A MAN HANGING UPSIDE DOWN FROM A TREE AND LOSING HIS HAT OR A
PRECIPITOUS FALL FROM A HAYRICK THE 6IRGIN AS IN OTHER TILES LOOKS DOWN FROM A CLOUD IN THE TOP LEFT AND A CART FALLING FROM A BRIDGE AND HURLING ITS INHABITANTS INTO A RIVER 4HE #ASA 2OMANA AND THE ART GALLERIES
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6ERY NEAR THE -USEO $IOCESANO IN A SIDE STREET BELOW THE 0ALAZZO DEL -UNI CIPIO IS THE #ASA 2OMANA 2OMAN (OUSE ENTERED FROM 6IA !URELIO 3AFl DAILY MID -ARCH TO MID /CT AMnPM REST OF YEAR AMnPM BUT MAY CLOSE nPM + OR + FOR COMBINED TICKET TO 0INACOTECA AND 'ALLE RIA D!RTE -ODERNA 4HIS IS A DARK AND ATMOSPHERIC LITTLE CORNER EXCAVATED BETWEEN AND THAT CONTAINS THE REMAINS OF A HOUSE FANCIFULLY BELIEVED TO HAVE BELONGED TO 6ESPASIA 0OLLA THE MOTHER OF THE EMPEROR 6ESPASIAN "ED ROOMS BATH AND OTHER REMNANTS SURVIVE INCLUDING SWATHES OF PATTERNED BLACK AND WHITE MOSAIC mOOR .OTE THAT 3POLETOS 0INACOTECA WHICH FOR YEARS WAS STUCK AWAY IN THE FARTHEST REACHES OF THE 0ALAZZO DEL -UNICIPIO ABOVE THE #ASA 2OMANA HAS A TEMPORARY HOME IN THE 0ALAZZO 2OSARI 3PADA AT 0IAZZA 3ORDINI MID -ARCH TO MID /CT DAILY AMnPM nPM REST OF YEAR 7EDn-ON AMn PM nPM + OR + COMBINED TICKET 4HE COLLECTIONS HIGHLIGHTS ARE A TRIPTYCH OF THE -ADONNA DELLE 'RAZIE BY .ICOLÛ !LUNNO A POLYPTYCH FROM THE ABBEY OF 3ANT%UTIZIO WITH ITS CENTRAL PANEL MISSING BY .ICOLA OF 3IENA A BEAUTIFULLY FRAMED -ADONNA AND #HILD BY !NTONELLO DA 3ALIBA A lFTEENTH CENTURY .ATIVITY BY 'IACOMO DI 'IOVANNOFRIO AND SEVERAL IMPRESSIVE WOODEN #RUCIlXES DETACHED FRESCOES BY ,O 3PAGNA AND TWO ELONGATED PANELS DEPICTING VARIOUS SAINTS ! COMBINED TICKET FOR THE #ASA 2OMANA ALSO ALLOWS YOU INTO THE 'ALLERIA #IVICA D!RTE -ODERNA 7EDn-ON MID -ARCH TO MID /CT nPM nPM REST OF THE YEAR CLOSES PM + OR + WITH COMBINED TICKET ON THE WEST OF TOWN CLOSE TO 3ANT!GOSTINO IN THE 0ALAZZO #OLLICOLA AT 0IAZZA #OLLI COLA 4HE COLLECTION HAS WORKS BY LEADING )TALIAN CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS ALIVE AND DEAD INCLUDING 'UTTOSO "URRI $ORAZIO AND !CCARDI PLUS FOREIGN WORKS FROM THE LIKES OF #ALDER HE OF THE RAILWAY STATION SCULPTURE AND A SECTION DEVOTED TO THE GLAZED TERRACOTTA AND OTHER SCULPTURES OF 3POLETOS OWN ,EONCILLO ,EONARDI n 4HE 2OCCA
)F YOU DO NOTHING ELSE IN 3POLETO TAKE THE SHORT WALK OUT TO THE 0ONTE DELLE 4ORRI THE TOWNS PICTURE POSTCARD FAVOURITE )TS BEST TAKEN IN AS PART OF A CIRCULAR WALK AROUND THE BASE OF THE 2OCCA OR ON THE LONGER TREK TO 3AN 0IETRO SEE BELOW 4HE 2OCCA ITSELF IS A PERFECTLY ENDOWED CASTLE WITH AN IMPRESSIVE TALLY OF TOWERS NEATLY DELINEATED CRENELLATIONS AND SHEER WALLS )T WAS BUILT AS ONE OF A CHAIN OF FORTRESSES WITH WHICH THE TIRELESS #ARDINAL !LBORNOZ TRIED TO RE ESTAB LISH #HURCH AUTHORITY IN CENTRAL )TALY IN THE YEARS PRECEDING THE 'REAT 3CHISM ,ATER IT BECAME PART FORTRESS PART HOLIDAY HOME WITH SEVERAL POPES STAYING OVER MOST NOTABLY *ULIUS )) SOMETIMES ACCOMPANIED BY -ICHELANGELO .ICHOLAS 6 WHO mED HERE FROM THE PLAGUE IN AND THE 3IENESE 0IUS )) 4HE FORTS MAIN LATTER DAY FUNCTION HAS BEEN AS A HIGH SECURITY PRISON TESTI MONY TO THE SKILL OF ITS MEDIEVAL BUILDERS AS MANY AS lVE HUNDRED PRISONERS WERE KEPT HERE BY THE PAPAL AUTHORITIES BETWEEN AND 3LAVIC AND )TALIAN POLITICAL PRISONERS WERE HELD HERE DURING THE WAR WHILE MORE RECENT INMATES INCLUDED MEMBERS OF THE 2ED "RIGADES AND 0OPE *OHN 0AUL ))S WOULD BE ASSASSIN -OHAMMED !LI !GCA 3INCE ITS DEMISE AS A PRISON IN TWO DECADES AND MORE OF STOP START RESTORATION KEPT THE 2OCCA CLOSED PARTLY
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AS A RESULT OF THE SCALE OF THE OPERATION PARTLY THROUGH SHEER MISMANAGEMENT 3OME a MILLION OF %5 MONEY HAS BEEN SUNK IN THE PROJECT A CONDITION OF THE FUNDING AND SUBSEQUENT GRANTS BEING THAT IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN OPEN TO THE PUBLIC BY WHEN AMONG OTHER THINGS A PUBLIC PARK AND .ATIONAL -USEUM OF THE $UCHY OF 3POLETO WERE DUE TO OPEN BUT DIDNT )N A CLASSIC )TALIAN FUDGE AREAS OF THE CASTLE ARE NOW OPEN BUT ONLY AS PART OF A FAR FROM SATISFACTORY GUIDED TOUR MID -ARCH TO MID *UNE MID 3EPT TO MID /CT -ONn&RI nPM nPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM MID *UNE TO MID 3EPT DAILY AMnPM .OV TO MID -ARCH -ONn&RI nPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM LAST TOURS DEPART AN HOUR BEFORE CLOSING TIME + THE TICKET INCLUDES A MINIBUS RIDE UP THE SURPRISINGLY LONG AND STEEP APPROACH ROAD AND A GUIDE INVARIABLY WITH LIMITED %NGLISH THOUGH IN THE EVENT THERE IS LITTLE TO BE EXPLAINED THE BEST BITS OF THE TOUR ARE THE SUPERB VIEWS THE IMPOSING TWIN COURTYARDS AND THE QUITE STAGGERING SCALE OF THE BUILDING THERE IS NO SIGN OF THE MUCH VAUNTED MUSEUM -EET AT THE SMALL WOODEN TICKET OFlCE AT THE START OF THE CASTLE DRIVE ON 0IAZZA & #AMPELLO AT THE TOP OF 6IA !URELIO 3AFl JUST TO THE LEFT OF THE LARGE FOUNTAIN WHOSE MASSIVE STONE FACE MARKS THE END OF A 2OMAN AND MEDIEVAL AQUEDUCT (IGHLIGHTS OF THE INTERIOR START WITH THE lRST COURTYARD THE #ORTILE D/NORE AN UPPER STOREY SUPPORTED ON VAST ORANGE BRICK ARCHES AND DOTTED WITH PATCHES OF FRESCO 4HE ARCHES ARE SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT ONE SET BELONG TO 'ATTAPONE THE ORIGINAL DESIGNER THE OTHER TO "ERNARDO 2OSSELLINO 0IUS ))S ARCHITECT IN 0IENZA SEE P WHO WORKED HERE !N ARCHED PASSAGE LEADS TO A PLAINER COURTYARD BEYOND THE ARCH FRESCOED WITH SIX TOWNS IN THE PAPAL DOMAIN WITH 3POLETO OBVIOUS ON THE RIGHT THANKS TO THE DEPICTION OF THE 0ONTE DELLE 4ORRI ALONG WITH 0ERUGIA MIDDLE LEFT AND /RVIETO FAR LEFT OBVIOUS FROM ITS CATHEDRAL 4HE MISSING PATCHES OF FRESCO TWO OF THE FOUR #ARDINAL 6IRTUES ALSO ILLUSTRATED ARE MISSING WERE DAMAGED BY lRES LIT BY GUARDS WHO SHELTERED ON DUTY IN THE PASSAGE 4HE SECOND COURTYARD USED FOR PERFORMANCES IN THE SUMMER FESTIVAL AND OTHER EVENTS WAS ONCE THE PRISON EXERCISE YARD TURN ROUND TO SEE THE COATS OF ARMS ABOVE THE ENTRANCE ARCH WHICH BELONG TO !LBORNOZ 5RBAN 6 %UGENIUS )6 n ALSO REPRESENTED IS THE MONOGRAM OF #HRIST AND THE CROSSED KEYS SYMBOLS OF THE #HURCHS TEMPORAL POWER A MOTIF REPEATED THROUGHOUT THE FORTRESS 3OME IDEA OF THE CASTLES PAST IMPORTANCE AND ITS ILLUSTRIOUS VISITORS AND INHABITANTS CAN BE GAINED FROM THE WEALTH OF OTHER LEADING FAMILY AND PAPAL ARMS AROUND THE PLACE n THE "ARBERINI BEES PARTICULARLY IN EVIDENCE -EDICI "ORGIA #OL ONNA $ELLA 2OVERE 0ICCOLOMINI 6ISCONTI !LDOBANDINI ,AMBERTINI AND MANY MORE 4HE TOUR ALSO VISITS ROOMS ON THE UPPER STOREY OF THE #ORTILE D/NORE IMPRESSIVE MORE FOR THEIR SIZE AND VIEWS THAN FOR ANY SURVIVING FRESCOES OR OTHER ARTEFACTS 4HE EXCEPTIONS ARE THE BEDROOM AND STUDIO BATHROOM WHICH HAVE WELL PRESERVED AND PRETTY COURTLY SCENES FROM THE EARLY lFTEENTH CENTURY APPROPRIATE TO A BEDROOM AND RIDING AND HUNTING VIGNETTES IN THE STUDIO 4HE 0ONTE DELLE 4ORRI
7ITHIN MINUTES OF LEAVING THE SHADY GARDENS OF 0IAZZA & #AMPELLO YOU SUD DENLY lND YOURSELF IN OPEN COUNTRYSIDE WITH A DRAMATIC VIEW ACROSS THE 4ESSINO GORGE AND SOUTH TO THE MOUNTAINS OF #ASTELMONTE 4HERES AN INFORMAL LITTLE BAR OFTEN BLARING CRACKLY OPERA FAVOURITES FROM TINNY SPEAKERS ABOUT M BEFORE THE 0ONTE TO HELP YOU ENJOY THE VIEW 4HIS IS A GOOD POINT TO LOOK DOWN ON A lNE STRETCH OF THE TOWNS WALLS AND THE 0ONTE DELLE 4ORRI AN ASTONISHING PIECE OF MEDIEVAL ENGINEERING WITH A METRE SPAN SUPPORTED BY TEN VAST ARCHES THE MOST CENTRAL ONES SOME M HIGH 4HE SITE IS A NOTORIOUS LOVERS LEAP 0ROBABLY DESIGNED BY THE 'UBBIAN
ARCHITECT 'ATTAPONE n THE MAN RESPONSIBLE FOR 'UBBIOS 0ALAZZO DEI #ONSOLI n IT WAS PLANNED INITIALLY AS AN AQUEDUCT TO BRING WATER FROM -ONTELUCO REPLACING A 2OMAN CAUSEWAY WHOSE DESIGN 'ATTAPONE BORROWED AND ENLARGED UPON )N TIME IT BECAME PART OF THE TOWNS DEFENCES PROVIDING AN ESCAPE FROM THE CASTLE WHEN 3POLETO WAS UNDER SIEGE 4HE REMAINS OF WHAT USED TO BE A COVERED PAS SAGEWAY CONNECTING THE TWO ARE STILL VISIBLE STRAGGLING DOWN THE HILLSIDE )TS POSSIBLE TO WALK ACROSS THE BRIDGE A HIGHLY RECOMMENDED STROLL WITH OBVIOUS PATHS ON THE OTHER SIDE WIND UP THE STONE STEPS TO THE RIGHT LEADING LEFT INTO LOVELY ILEX WOODS WITH SUPERB BELVEDERES OVERLOOKING THE BRIDGE AND GORGE &OLLOW THE LEVEL PATH FOR KM OR SO AND YOU BEND ROUND AN ARM OF THE GORGE TO EMERGE IN PEACEFUL OLIVE GROVES 3AN 0IETRO AND 3AN 0AOLO INTER 6INEAS
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!CCESSIBLE ON A WALKING ROUTE FROM THE 0ONTE DELLE 4ORRI IS THE CHURCH OF 3AN 0IETRO INTERIOR nAM TO VISIT nPM RING THE BELL OF THE CUSTODIAN IN THE HOUSE ADJACENT TO THE CHURCH 4HE FACADE IS THE THING TO SEE VISIBLE FROM THE BRIDGE AS YOU DRAW CLOSE IT REVEALS A SERIES OF TWELFTH CENTURY SCULPTURES THAT n WITH -AITANIS BAS RELIEFS IN /RVIETO n CONSTITUTE THE lNEST 2OMANESQUE CARVING IN 5MBRIA 0ARTLY ,OMBARD IN THEIR INSPIRATION THEY DRAW ON THE 'OS PELS AND MEDIEVAL LEGEND FOR THEIR COMPLICATED NARRATIVE AND SYMBOLIC PURPOSE -UCH OF THE ALLEGORY IS ELUSIVE BUT REASONABLY SELF EXPLANATORY PANELS INCLUDE ! 7OLF $ISGUISED AS A &RIAR BEFORE A mEEING RAM n A DIG AT DODGY MONASTIC MORALS n AND PARTICULARLY JUICY THE $EATH OF A 3INNER LEFT SERIES SECOND FROM THE TOP (ERE THE !RCHANGEL -ICHAEL ABANDONS THE SINNER TO A COUPLE OF DEMONS WHO BIND AND TORTURE THE UNFORTUNATE BEFORE BRINGING IN THE BURNING OIL TO lNISH HIM OFF #OMPARE THIS WITH THE PANEL ABOVE THE $EATH OF A *UST -AN WHERE 3T 0ETER FREES THE MAN OF HIS CHAINS WHILE -ICHAEL HOLDS HIS SOUL IN HIS SCALES THE $EVIL LASHED BY THE KEYS OF 3T 0ETER TRIES TO TIP THE SCALES IN HIS FAVOUR AND HOLDS A SCROLL THAT LAMENTS DOLEO QUIA ANTE ERAT MEUS h) MOURN BECAUSE HE WAS MINE BEFOREv 3AN 0AOLO INTER 6INEAS STRANDED SOUTH OF THE TOWN CENTRE OFF 6IALE 'IA COMO -ATTEOTTI IS THE LEAST VISITED OF ALL 3POLETOS CHURCHES -ENTIONED AS EARLY AS THE SIXTH CENTURY BY 3T 'REGORY THE 'REAT IT WAS REBUILT IN THE TENTH CENTURY AND HAS NOW BEEN RESTORED TO ITS BEAUTIFULLY SIMPLE TWELFTH CENTURY STATE )T PRESERVES FRESCOES OF THE #REATION AND 0ROPHETS PAINTED BEFORE THE CONSECRATION OF THE PRESENT STRUCTURE WHICH MAKES THEM AMONG THE OLDEST IN THE REGION )F THE CHURCH IS SHUT RING FOR ADMISSION AT THE OLD PEOPLES HOME NEXT DOOR DAILY AMnPM 3AN $OMENICO TO 3AN .ICOLÛ
!MONG 3POLETOS LESSER CHURCHES THE MASSIVE MONASTIC 3AN $OMENICO ON THE TOWNS WESTERN MARGINS WARRANTS A DIVERSION FOR ITS COLOURFUL PINK AND WHITE MARBLE BANDING )NSIDE n IN AN INTERIOR OF STRIPPED DOWN "AROQUE n THERE ARE SOME FRAGMENTS OF FRESCO FOSSILIZED IN NEW YELLOW PLASTER THE OUTSTANDING PIC TURE BEING A LARGE EARLY lFTEENTH CENTURY FRESCO ON THE SOUTHERN RIGHT HAND WALL 4HE 4RIUMPH OF 3T 4HOMAS !QUINAS !T THE BACK OF THE CHURCH TO THE RIGHT OF THE PRESBYTERY IS A SMALL ROOM lLLED WITH CRUDE BUT EYE CATCHING EARLY FRESCOES THE #APPELLA DEI -ONTEVECCHIO IN THE LEFT TRANSEPT ENSHRINES THE UMPTEENTH .AIL OF THE #ROSS #LOSE BY IS THE 'ALLERIA #IVICA D!RTE -ODERNA 0IAZZA #OLLICOLA SAME HOURS AND TICKET AS #ASA 2OMANA SHOWING WORKS BY LEADING )TALIAN CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS INCLUDING 'UTTOSO "URRI $ORAZIO AND !CCARDI PLUS FOREIGN WORKS FROM THE LIKES OF #ALDER AND A SECTION DEVOTED TO THE GLAZED TER RACOTTA AND OTHER SCULPTURES OF 3POLETOS OWN ,EONCILLO ,EONARDI n
! STROLL AWAY IN 6IA &ILITTERIA IS THE TINY CHAPEL OF 33 'IOVANNI E 0AOLO CON SECRATED IN WHICH HAS AN IMPRESSIVE THIRTEENTH CENTURY FRESCO OUTSIDE AND AN INTERIOR n RARELY OPEN n COVERED IN SUPERB FRESCOES DATING FROM THE TWELFTH CENTURY ONWARDS 3AN .ICOLÛ A COUPLE OF MINUTES NORTH IS IMPRESSIVELY 'OTHIC FROM THE OUTSIDE BUT LONG DECONSECRATED USED AS A TRUFmE MARKET AND WORKSHOP FOR REPAIRING STEAM ENGINES AND NOW A SETTING FOR THIRD RATE EXHIBI TIONS AND JUMBLE SALES !LONGSIDE IS WHAT MUST HAVE BEEN A BEAUTIFUL CLOISTER NOW RESTORED TO A BARE SEMBLANCE OF ITS ORIGINAL STATE
%ATING AND DRINKING
2ESTAURANTS
AND PARTICULARLY RENOWNED FOR ITS SUPERLATIVE TRUFmE AND 5MBRIAN DISHES 0IPED MUSIC A ,OWER 4OWN LOCATION AND HIGH PRICES WORK AGAINST IT HOWEVER THOUGH THE MEDIEVAL INTERIOR IS WONDERFUL YOU CAN EAT OUTDOORS IN SUMMER AND PICK FROM A COUPLE OF DEGUSTAZIONE MENUS #LOSED 7ED /STERIA DEL -ATTO 6ICOLO DEL -ERCATO ! GOOD BET IN A TINY ALLEY JUST OFF THE WEST SIDE OF 0IAZZA DEL -ERCATO IF ONLY FOR THE CHARM OF THE OWNER AND THE DECIDEDLY INFORMAL ATMOSPHERE )T HAS A SINGLE COSY DINING ROOM AND YOU CAN DRINK WINE LATE INTO THE EVENING OR SETTLE DOWN FOR A GOOD LIGHT MEAL OR SNACK ,UNCH CAN BE HAD FOR AS LITTLE AS + AND THERE ARE SET MENUS AT LUNCH + AND DINNER + 0ECCHIARDA 6ICOLO 3AN 'IOVANNI ! FRIENDLY FAMILY RUN ATMO SPHERE SPRAWLING OUTDOOR SUMMER PERGOLA AND FAIR PRICES HAVE MADE THIS ONE OF THE TOWNS MOST POPULAR TRATTORIE (OUSE RED IS A CHEAP AND CHEERFUL 3ANGIOVESE MADE BY THE OWNER )TS A BIG AND FAR FROM INTIMATE PLACE HOWEVER AND THE FACT THAT ITS ENCLOSED MEANS THERE ARE NO VIEWS ITS ALSO LESS CENTRAL THAN MOST LISTED RESTAURANTS $AILY 0ENTAGRAMMA 6IA -ARTANI /WNED BY RELATIVES OF 3ABATINIS CHEF PATRON THIS MEDIEVAL VAULTED DINING ROOM WITH ITS OUT OF PLACE RED CHEQUERED TABLECLOTHS SPECIALIZES IN TRADITIONAL 3POLETAN STAPLES AT MIDDLING PRICES ! RELAXED AND
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!L $RUSO 6IA !RCO DEL $RUSO "USY TRATTORIA PIZZERIA AT THE SOUTHERN ENTRANCE TO 0IAZZA DEL -ERCATO 0IZZAS AND BASIC MEALS AT KEEN PRICES BUT NO FRILLS #LOSED -ON !POLLINARE 6IA 3ANT!GATA 0USHES 3ABATINI FOR THE TITLE OF 3POLETOS BEST n AND lRST CHOICE n 5PPER 4OWN RESTAURANT 4HE BLUE AND GOLD UPHOLSTERY IS INITIALLY OFF PUTTING BUT THE MEDIEVAL SETTING IS GOOD AND THE WELCOME FRIENDLY THE MENU IS TINY AND THE MENá DEGUSTAZIONE EXCELLENT VALUE $ONT MISS THE SUBLIME CARAMELLO STARTER n A CHEESE AND TRUFmE DELIGHT #LOSED 4UES $EL -ERCATO 0IAZZA DEL -ERCATO 5NEXCEPTIONAL BUT INEXPENSIVE AND CONVENIENT SPOT ON THE CENTRAL SQUARE WITH OUTSIDE TABLES #LOSED 4HURS )L 0ANCIOLLE ,ARGO -UZIO #LEMENTEn6IA DEL $UOMO "ELOW THE HOTEL OF THE SAME NAME THIS IS A GOOD CHOICE FOR A RELIABLE AND REASONABLY PRICED IF NEVER OVER EXCITING MEAL OF 5MBRIAN SPECIALITIES SUCH AS STRINGOZZI AND lRE GRILLED MEATS !LSO KNOWN FOR ITS SELECTION OF CHEESES (AS A GREAT OUTSIDE TERRACE AT THE BACK n THOUGH THE MEDIEVAL INTERIOR WITH OPEN lRE IS COSY ENOUGH #LOSED 7ED )L 4ARTUFO 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI 2EGARDED RIGHTLY AS THE BEST RESTAURANT IN 3POLETO
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!S YOUD EXPECT FROM ITS CULTURAL ASPIRATIONS 3POLETO TAKES ITS FOOD PRETTY SERI OUSLY 4HE TOWN LIES AT THE HEART OF RENOWNED OLIVE OIL COUNTRY THE OILS OF ITS TOP PRODUCER -ONINI USED IN KITCHENS ACROSS )TALY 4HESE CAN BE BOUGHT JUST ABOUT ANYWHERE BUT FOR A PICNIC STOCK UP AT THE MARKET AND FOOD SHOPS IN THE 0IAZZA DEL -ERCATO THE LITTLE SHOP IMMEDIATELY ON THE LEFT AS YOU EXIT THE SQUARE TO THE NORTH HAS AN EXCELLENT SELECTION INCLUDING LOCAL WINES SUCH AS -ONTEFALCOS 3AGRANTINO 0ASSITO SEE P TRUFmE PASTE AND OTHER MORE RARIlED PRODUCTS !NOTHER GOOD SHOP AT THE OPPOSITE END OF THE SQUARE IS THE OLD FASHIONED 3ALUMERIA 0ADRICHELLI 6IA !RCO DEL $RUSO 4HE BEST BAR IN TOWN IS THE 6INCENZO ON #ORSO -AZZINI n YOULL SEE THE BIG NAMES THERE DURING THE FESTIVAL n BUT FOR LATE EVENINGS OUT OF DOORS MAKE FOR THE BAR IN 0IAZZA DEL -ERCATO /N 3UNDAY LATE IN THE AFTERNOON THE REGIONS BUSIEST AND MOST IMPRESSIVE PASSEGGIATA TAKES PLACE FROM THE BAR IN 0IAZZA DELLA ,IBERTÌ SURGING DOWN #ORSO -AZZINI
RATHER UN )TALIAN BISTRO ATMOSPHERE BUT IT NEEDS TO BE BUSY TO BE ENJOYABLE ,OCATED IMMEDIATELY OFF 0IAZZA DELLA ,IBERTÌ #LOSED -ON 3ABATINI #ORSO -AZZINI "EST KNOWN TOP CHOICE IN THE 5PPER 4OWN THOUGH THE !POLLINARE PERHAPS JUST PIPS IT FOR QUALITY OF COOK ING (AS A SIMPLE ELEGANT INTERIOR AND SMALL GARDEN FOR SUMMER EATING SERVING INTERESTING IF OCCASION ALLY OVER ELABORATE VARIATIONS OF LOCAL DISHES THAT ARE MORE IMAGINATIVE THAN IN MANY AN 5MBRIAN RESTAURANT JUST AVOID THE HOUSE SPECIALITY CHEESE
RISOTTO 'OOD WINES WHICH ARE DISPLAYED IN LOVELY OLD CABINETS #LOSED -ON 3PORTELLINO 6IA #ERQUIGLIA ! GOOD BET IN THE ,OWER 4OWN 7ALKING IN YOU FEEL AS IF YOURE ENTERING SOMEONES HOME ITS A SIMPLE PLACE WITH GOOD REGIONAL COOKING TO MATCH GO FOR STRINGOZZI A CHEWY LOCAL PASTA MADE WITHOUT EGGS OR ROBUST MEAT DISHES SUCH AS CONIGLIO ALLA CACCIA TORA RABBIT 0ECORINO CHEESE TO lNISH IS EXCELLENT AND THE ANTIPASTI 3PORTELLINO IS ALMOST A MEAL IN ITSELF #LOSED 4HURS !UG
,ISTINGS "IKE RENTAL 3COCCHETTI #ICLI 6IA -ARCONI "OOKSHOP %NGLISH LANGUAGE TITLES PLUS A GOOD STOCK OF GUIDES AND MAPS OF THE LOCAL AREA AT #ORSO -AZZINI DAILY AMnPM nPM CLOSED 3UN hIF ITS RAININGv #AR RENTAL !RMANDO !LCIDI A RELIABLE LOCAL AGENCY OR (ERTZ CO 6IA #ERQUIGLIA HERTZSPOLETO TINIT WHICH CAN
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\ 4HE 6ALNERINA
ALSO PROVIDE A DRIVER OR RENT A SCOOTER %XCHANGE !T THE POST OFlCE OR THE BANKS AT THE NORTHERN END OF 6IA -AZZINI -ARKETS /N &RIDAY STALLS SET UP IN 0IAZZA 'ARIB ALDI 6IA #ACCIATORI DELLE !LPI AND 0IAZZA DEL -ER CATO THOUGH THE LATTER HAS A HANDFUL OF FRUIT AND VEGETABLE STALLS MOST DAYS OF THE WEEK 0OST OFlCE 0IAZZA DELLA ,IBERTÌ -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM
4HE 6ALNERINA 4HE 6ALNERINA IS A VALLEY THAT CURVES IN A BROAD ARC THROUGH THE EAST OF 5MBRIA RISING IN THE MOUNTAINS OF THE 3IBILLINI AND THEN FOLLOWING A SOUTHWESTERLY COURSE THROUGH SCENERY WITH A STARK WILD BEAUTY WHICH IS ALL THE MORE DRAMATIC AFTER THE PASTORAL HILL COUNTRY TO THE WEST $ESOLATE AND SPARSELY POPULATED THESE DAYS THE hLITTLE VALLEY OF THE .ERAv WAS ONCE THE HUB OF COMMUNICATIONS BETWEEN THE KINGDOM OF .APLES AND THE DUKEDOM OF 3POLETO AND LATER A BONE OF CONTENTION BETWEEN THE #HURCH AND THE (OLY 2OMAN %MPIRE n WHICH EXPLAINS ITS LIBERAL SPRINKLING OF FORTIlED VILLAGES 4ODAY IT CONSTITUTES A SELF CONTAINED AREA OF HIGH MOUNTAINS STEEP WOODED VALLEYS LONELY HAMLETS AND VAST STRETCHES OF UPLAND WILDERNESS $ESERTED FARMS BEAR WITNESS TO A CENTURY OF CONTINUOUS EMIGRATION AND WOLVES STILL ROAM THE SUMMIT RIDGES HALF HEARTEDLY PROTECTED BY A 0ARCO 2EGIONALE &EW PARTS OF 4USCANY OR 5MBRIA ARE SO GENUINE A hFORGOTTEN CORNERv 4HERE IS NO EASY WAY OF VISITING THE VALLEYS HIGHLIGHTS IN A STRAIGHTFORWARD MANNER 4HE BEST APPROACH IS FROM 3POLETO EITHER ON THE WINDING SCENIC ROAD OVER THE MOUNTAINS THAT MEETS THE VALLEY JUST BELOW 6ALLO DI .ERA OR VIA THE FAST TUNNEL WHICH EMERGES CLOSE TO 3ANT!NATOLIA DI .ARCO 9OU SHOULD lRST HEAD SOUTH FROM EITHER POINT TO SEE THE ,OWER 6ALNERINA AND VISIT THE REGIONS MAIN HIGHLIGHT THE ABBEY OF 3AN 0IETRO IN 6ALLE "EYOND THIS THE VALLEY LOSES MOST OF ITS APPEAL BECOMING MORE SCRAPPY AND BUILT UP IN THE RUN PAST &ERENTILLO AND !RRONE TOWARDS 4ERNI ! ROUTE FOLLOWING THE .ERA ALL THE WAY TO 4ERNI ONLY MAKES SENSE IF YOU ARE MAKING FOR .ARNI /RTE AND THE ROAD TO 2OME OR THE NORTH &ROM 3AN 0IETRO IN 6ALLE YOU SHOULD THEREFORE DOUBLE BACK AND HEAD NORTH n NO HARDSHIP AS THE SCENERY IS DELIGHTFUL n PICKING ONE OF THREE OPTIONS THE SLOW BUT VERY SCENIC MOUNTAIN ROAD FROM 3ANT!NATOLIA DI .ARCO TO -ONTE LEONE AND THEN ON TO .ORCIA VIA #ASCIA AND THE 33 THE DIRECT BUT STILL
STRIKING 33 ROAD TO .ORCIA FROM JUST SOUTH OF 4RIPONZO OR EXPLORING THE 5PPER 6ALNERINA FOLLOWING THE 33 VALLEY ROAD BEFORE DIVERTING SOUTH TOWARDS .ORCIA VIA 0RECI AND ANOTHER lNE ABBEY 3ANT%UTIZIO AND THE PRETTY 6AL #ASTORIANA ALSO EASILY EXPLORED USING .ORCIA AS A BASE !CCESS TO THE HEART OF THE REGION CAN BE VERY TRICKY WITHOUT YOUR OWN TRANS PORT BUT THERE ARE SEVERAL BUS SERVICES DAILY FROM 3POLETO EAST TO .ORCIA ON THE QUICKEST 33 ROUTE STOPPING AT MOST VILLAGES ALONG THE WAY )N MANY CASES YOULL lND A BUS WAITING AT KEY JUNCTIONS SUCH AS THAT BELOW 3ANT!NATOLIA DI .ARCO TO CONNECT WITH MORE REMOTE VILLAGES TO THE SOUTH AND EAST
4HE ,OWER 6ALNERINA
3ANT!NATOLIA DI .ARCO
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!ROUND KM SOUTH ON THE MAIN ROAD YOU PASS #!34%, 3!. &%,)#% ANOTHER PICTURE PERFECT FORTIlED VILLAGE AND A COUPLE OF KILOMETRES FARTHER ARRIVE AT A TURNOFF TO THE LESS ALLURING 3!.4!.!4/,)! $) .!2#/ CON TINUALLY INHABITED SINCE THE EIGHTH CENTURY "# 4AKE THE TURN LEFT JUST BEFORE THE VILLAGE VISIBLE ON THE HILL ABOVE AT THE NOISY ROADSIDE BAR AND HOTEL 4RE 6ALLI CROSS THE RIVER AND LOOK FOR THE SMALL YELLOW SIGN M OR SO BEYOND ON THE LEFT DIRECTING YOU TO THE LITTLE TWELFTH CENTURY CHURCH OF 3AN &ELICE )TS FACADE BEARS ONLY THE BARE ESSENTIALS n ARCHED DOORWAY ROSE WINDOW AND TWO PAIRS OF NARROW WINDOWS ,UMPEN RED AND WHITE MARBLE SLABS mOOR THE LOVELY INTERIOR WHICH IS DISTINGUISHED BY A RAISED SANCTUARY AN ANCIENT SARCOPHAGUS IN THE CRYPT AND lFTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES OF #HRIST IN THE APSE AND THE !DORATION OF THE -AGI ON THE LEFT WALL OF THE NAVE
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%AST OF 3POLETO THE BEAUTIFUL AND TORTUOUS 33 ROAD TOWARDS .ORCIA CLIMBS AND THEN n AMIDST TREMENDOUS VIEWS n DROPS TO MEET THE MAIN 33 RUNNING ALONG THE mOOR OF THE 6ALNERINA AT THE JUNCTION AT THE HAMLET OF 0IEDIPATERNO 4HIS TWENTY KILOMETRE ROUTE IS SLOW HOWEVER SO IF YOU WANT TO HAVE MORE TIME TO EXPLORE THE VALLEY TAKE THE TUNNEL WHICH EMERGES CLOSE TO 3ANT!NATOLIA DI .ARCO TO THE SOUTH SEE BELOW !BOUT KM SOUTH OF 0IEDIPATERNO LIES A TURNOFF LEFT TO THE VILLAGE OF 6!,,/ $) .%2! A SELF CONTAINED MEDIEVAL ENSEMBLE PERCHED ON A HILL THE TYPE OF FORTIlED VILLAGE YOULL SEE ALL THE WAY UP AND DOWN THE VALLEY )N THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA IN THE LOWER PART OF THE VILLAGE THE HOUSE AT NO HAS THE KEY IF THE BUILDING IS SHUT ARE MINOR BUT BEAUTIFUL FOURTEENTH CENTURY APSE FRESCOES ,ATER BUT NO LESS ARRESTING FRESCOES ADORN THE CHURCH OF 3AN 'IOVANNI "ATTISTA AT THE TOP OF THE VILLAGE TRY THE PRIESTS HOUSE NEXT DOOR FOR ACCESS IF THE CHURCH IS SHUT 4HEYRE THE WORK OF THE 3ICILIAN ARTIST *ACOPO 3ANTORI OR 3ICULO WHO ALSO FRESCOED ONE OF THE %ROLI CHAPELS IN 3POLETOS $UOMO SEE P
&ROM 3ANT!NATOLIA TO -ONTELEONE
&ROM 3ANT!NATOLIA A SENSATIONAL MINOR ROAD STRIKES SOUTHEAST TO -ONTELEONE DI 3POLETO OFFERING GREAT VIEWS AND CUTTING ACROSS THE MAIN MOUNTAIN RIDGE 9OU PASS THE SOMNOLENT LITTLE HAMLETS OF #!3/ AND '!6%,,) M BOTH LOOKING ACROSS A VAST TREE COVERED GORGE WHOSE SCALE AND APPEARANCE ARE MORE AKIN TO 3OUTH !MERICA THAN CENTRAL )TALY !ROUND KM PAST #ASO LOOK OUT ON THE LEFT FOR THE LITTLE BELL TOWER OF 3ANTA #RISTINA SIGNED A 2OMANESQUE CHURCH WITH A SCATTERING OF FRESCOES 4HE CHURCH OF 3AN -ICHELE IN 'AVELLI IS EVEN BETTER AND ONE OF THE EXTRAORDINARY AND UNEXPECTED ARTISTIC GEMS SO COM MON IN 5MBRIA 4HE ENTIRE INTERIOR IS COVERED IN SIXTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES
BY ,O 3PAGNA RECENTLY RESTORED WITH THE AID OF 5+ BASED WALKING COMPANY !4' /XFORD )F THE DOOR IS LOCKED KNOCK AT THE lRST HOUSE ON THE LEFT AS YOU CLIMB THE LANE PAST THE CHURCH /FF ROAD WALKS FROM HIGHER UP TO NEARBY SUMMITS ARE STRAIGHTFORWARD THE BEST TARGET BEING -ONTE #OSCERNO M n THE PEAK ON YOUR LEFT AS YOU DRIVE UP n REPUTEDLY HOME TO AT LEAST TWO PAIRS OF GOLDEN EAGLES 4O PICK UP THE TRACK DRIVE ABOUT KM PAST 'AVELLI LOOKING OUT FOR A YELLOW SIGNED LANE BACK TO 'AVELLI ON THE RIGHT /PPOSITE THIS ON THE LEFT A STONY TRACK KICKS OFF OBLIQUELY UPHILL 3IMPLY FOLLOW THIS CLEAR BROAD PATH CUM GRAVEL ROAD GENTLY UP LOOKING OUT FOR THE ONE SINGLE DIVERSION n AN OBVIOUS LEFT TURN AT THE PASS AFTER ABOUT MINUTES WHICH WILL TAKE YOU ON TO THE BREEZY OPEN RIDGE TO THE SUMMIT #ONTINUE RIGHT FOR A FEW METRES ON THE TRACK THAT STARTS DOWNWARDS TO GET STAG GERING VIEWS AS FAR AS -ONTE 6ETTORE AND THE 3IBILLINI 3CHEGGINO
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!BOUT KM SOUTH OF 3ANT!NATOLIA AND AGAIN LAID OUT BELOW A CASTLE 3#(%' ')./ IS ONE OF THE MORE APPEALING SPOTS IN THE REGION -UCH OF ITS CHARM DERIVES FROM A COUPLE OF CANALS BELOW THE TINY AND MUCH TIDIED MEDIEVAL STREETS ! FURTHER lNE INCENTIVE FOR STOPPING ESPECIALLY AT LUNCH IS AN EXCELLENT HOTEL RESTAURANT !LBERGO 4RATTORIA DEL 0ONTE 6IA DI "ORGO RESTAURANT CLOSED -ON EARLY 3EPT 4HERE ARE TWELVE MODERN TWO STAR ROOMS COOL QUIET AND ATTRACTIVE AND A FOUR ROOM ANNEXE AT 6IA 2OMA -AKE A POINT OF SAMPLING THE LOCAL SPECIALITY TROUT AND TRUFmES THE FORMER PLUCKED FROM THE ICE CLEAR RIVER THE LATTER HARVESTED BY THE LOCAL 5RBANI FAMILY TOP OPERATORS IN THE )TALIAN TRUFmE WORLD THEIR FACTORY IS THE YELLOW BUILDING ON THE LEFT ABOUT KM NORTH OF THE VILLAGE !LSO CHECK OUT THE FABULOUS GELATERIA PART OF THE HOTEL BAR 4HE ONLY CAMPSITE FOR MILES AROUND IS THE 6ALNERINA AT NEARBY 6ALCASANA *UNEn3EPT REACHED BY TAKING THE ROAD EAST FOR KM PAST THE TROUT FARM JUST OUTSIDE 3CHEGGINO (ALFWAY THERE ON THE LEFT IS A GREAT OUTDOOR PUBLIC SWIMMING POOL LATE *UNE TO !UG !BBAZIA DI 3AN 0IETRO IN 6ALLE
&ROM 3CHEGGINO THE 33 CONTINUES SOUTH KM TO AN EASILY MISSED TURN ING ON THE RIGHT IMMEDIATELY BEFORE THE HAMLET OF #OLLEPONTE SIGNED TO THE !BBAZIA DI 3AN 0IETRO IN 6ALLE DAILY AMnNOON nPM FREE IF ITS CLOSED RING AT THE CUSTODIANS HOUSE SIGNED ON THE LEFT MIDWAY UP THE TWO KILOMETRE APPROACH ROAD 3ET HIGH ON THE HILLSIDE NEAR A THICKLY WOODED CLEFT THIS IS ONE OF CENTRAL )TALYS lNEST ABBEYS AND ONE OF 5MBRIAS FEW MEMORIALS TO THE ,OMBARDS DUKEDOM OF 3POLETO !T THE TIME OF WRITING CONSIDERABLE RESTORATION WORK WAS UNDER WAY MORE OMINOUSLY THE ABBEY BUILDINGS WHICH HAVE BEEN IN PRIVATE HANDS SINCE THE ABBEY CHURCH IS A STATE OWNED NATIONAL MONU MENT HAVE BEEN PART CONVERTED INTO A HOTEL A DEVELOPMENT THAT CAN ONLY BE TO THE LONG TERM DETRIMENT OF THIS PERFECT MEDIEVAL ENSEMBLE )N 2OMAN TIMES THERE WAS PROBABLY A PAGAN TEMPLE ON THE SITE LATER REPLACED BY A SERIES OF SMALL HERMITIC COMMUNITIES -EANWHILE IN 3POLETO THE SIXTH ,OMBARD $UKE OF 3POLETO &AROALDO )) WHO REIGNED BETWEEN AND EXPERIENCED A VISION IN WHICH 3T 0ETER TOLD HIM TO FOUND A MONASTERY IN HIS HONOUR AT A PLACE IN WHICH HE WOULD DISCOVER A LONE AND DISCONSOLATE MONK 7HILE HUNTING SOME TIME LATER HE CAME ACROSS A RECENTLY BEREAVED MONK AND SO DULY FOUNDED AN ABBEY BUT ALSO ABDICATED HIS THRONE IN FAVOUR OF THE MONASTIC LIFE !T HIS DEATH EIGHT YEARS LATER HE WAS BURIED IN THE ABBEY HIS TOMB A MAGNIlCENT 2OMAN SARCOPHAGUS WHICH SURVIVES TO THIS DAY TO THE RIGHT OF THE HIGH ALTAR 4HE ABBEY BECAME A MAUSOLEUM FOR
4HE CHURCH
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4HE HIGHLIGHT OF THE COMPLEX IS THE CHURCH MUCH OF WHICH SURVIVES FROM TWO SEPARATE PERIODS OF BUILDING n THE EIGHTH AND TWELFTH CENTURIES THE EARLIER DATE PROBABLY HAVING YIELDED THE TRANSEPT THE THREE APSES AND PARTS OF THE ROUGH MOSAIC PAVEMENT BEHIND THE MAIN ALTAR !S YOU ENTER VIA THE MAIN REAR DOOR THERE IS A SMALL CONICAL STONE ALTAR ON YOUR RIGHT A PAGAN ALTAR DATING BACK TO THE lRST CENTURY "# /N THE LEFT IS A SERIES OF MEDIEVAL AND 2OMAN FRAGMENTS FROM THE EARLIEST BUILDINGS ON THE SITE 4HE REAR WALL HAS TWO ACCOMPLISHED SIXTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES 4HE -ADONNA OF ,ORETO AND 4HE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 3T 3EBASTIAN /UT OF THE DOOR IMME DIATELY OFF THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE CHURCH IS A FAULTLESS TWO TIERED CLOISTER USUALLY DECKED OUT WITH A PROFUSION OF mOWER lLLED POTS THE CUSTODIAN SHOULD OPEN THE DOOR FOR YOU TO SEE TWO EXQUISITE NINTH CENTURY STATUES OF SAINTS 0ETER AND 0AUL mANKING THE PORTAL -OVING DOWN THE CHURCH YOU CROSS A STONE DIVISION SET INTO THE mOOR mANKED BY TWO SMALL PILLARS THIS MARKED THE POINT BEYOND WHICH THOSE WHO HAD NOT BEEN BAPTIZED WERE FORBIDDEN TO PROGRESS 5P ABOVE COVERING MOST OF THE SIDE WALLS ARE TWO BREATHTAKING IF BADLY FADED FRESCO CYCLES 0AINTED IN THEY ARE CONSIDERED SOME OF THE MOST IMPORTANT PAINTINGS OF THEIR PERIOD IN )TALY BEING AMONGST THE lRST ATTEMPTS TO MOVE AWAY FROM THE STYLIZED INmUENCE OF "YZANTINE PAINTING THE ARTIST IS UNKNOWN -OST OF THESE PRECOCIOUS PICTURES ARE BIBLICAL SCENES SHOWING A STARTLING SENSE OF INVEN TION AND COMPOSITION FULL OF NARRATIVE DETAIL AND ATTEMPTS AT LIGHT AND SHADE UNIQUE FOR THEIR TIME 4HOSE ON THE LEFT HAND WALL ARE FROM THE /LD 4ESTAMENT THOSE ON THE RIGHT FROM THE .EW 4HE /LD 4ESTAMENT SCENES ARE BETTER PRESERVED AND ARE WORTH STUDYING 4HEY ARE ARRANGED IN THREE TIERS AND PROGRESS LEFT TO RIGHT FROM THE TOP TIER DOWN 4HE lRST TIER COMPRISES THE #REATION OF THE 7ORLD #REATION OF !DAM #RE ATION OF %VE WHO IS SHOWN EMERGING FROM !DAMS RIB WITH THE FOUR 2IVERS OF 0ARADISE n LOOKING LIKE lSH n AT !DAMS SIDE !DAM .AMING THE !NIMALS /RIGINAL
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MANY OF THE 3POLETAN ,OMBARD DUKES THE LAST TO BE BURIED HERE BEING &RANCO 6INIGISIO WHO ABDICATED IN 4HE ABBEY WAS SACKED BY A 3ARACEN RAIDING PARTY IN AND RESTORED IN WHEN A SERIES OF FORTRESSES WERE BUILT TO LEND IT ADDED PROTECTION /NE OF THESE 5MBRIANO CAN STILL BE SEEN ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE VALLEY FANCIFUL LEGEND HAS IT THAT IT WAS THE lRST SETTLEMENT EVER FOUNDED IN 5MBRIA 4HEREAFTER THE ABBEY BECAME ONE OF THE MOST POWERFUL RELIGIOUS HOUSES IN THE REGION CONTROLLING VAST TRACTS OF LAND AND DOMINATING THE LIVES OF THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE )N IT PASSED FROM THE "ENEDICTINES TO THE #ISTERCIANS BUT BY HAD BECOME SO CORRUPT THAT "ONIFACE 6))) WAS FORCED TO TRANSFER RESPONSIBILITY FOR ITS OPERATION TO 2OME )N )NNOCENT 6))) SOLD ITS LAND AND FEUDAL RIGHTS TO &RANCESCHETTO #YBO AND HIS DESCENDANTS WHO TOOK THE TITLE OF #OUNT OF &ERENTILLO IT REMAINED IN THEIR DOMAIN UNTIL PASSING THROUGH OTHER MINOR ARISTOCRATIC HANDS UNTIL WHEN THE CHURCH WAS APPROPRIATED BY THE NEWLY FORMED )TALIAN STATE AND THE BUILDINGS SOLD TO THE LOCAL #OSTANZI FAMILY STILL THE CURRENT OWNERS 4HE ABBEY HOTEL WWWSANPIETROINVALLEIT IS A LOVELY PLACE TO STAY EVEN IF YOU CANT HELP BUT FEEL ITS PRESENCE HAS TAKEN SOMETHING FROM THIS GLORIOUS SPOT 9OU CAN ALSO STAY IN 3!-"5#(%4/ THE HAMLET AT THE FOOT OF THE APPROACH ROAD WHERE THE NINE ROOM .INFA DEL .ERA SITS ON THE BUSY MAIN ROAD 6IA DEL -ONASTERO IT ALSO HAS A RESTAURANT THOUGH YOUD BE BETTER ADVISED TO AIM FOR THE $EL 0ONTE IN NEARBY 3CHEGGINO SEE P
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3IN 'ODS 7ARNING AND 4HE %XPULSION FROM 0ARADISE 4HE SECOND TIER COMPRISES THE 3ACRIlCE OF #AIN AND !BEL #AIN 3LAYING !BEL 'ODS 7ARNING TO .OAH 4HE #ON STRUCTION OF THE !RK .OAH 'IVING 4HANKS TO 'OD !BRAHAM AND THE 4HREE !NGELS 4HE 3ACRIlCE OF )SAAC AND )SAAC AND *ACOB /NLY ONE FRESCO SURVIVES OF THE LOWEST TIER ITS THEME UNCLEAR 4HE .EW 4ESTAMENT SCENES ON THE OPPOSITE WALL DEPICT IN THE BADLY FADED UPPER TIER ANGELS AND /LD 4ESTAMENT CHARACTERS 4HE SECOND TIER HAS SEVEN BETTER PRESERVED PANELS FROM LEFT TO RIGHT 4HE 3HEPHERDS BEING TOLD OF #HRISTS "IRTH *OURNEY OF THE -AGI %PIPHANY $EPARTURE OF THE -AGI -ASSACRE OF THE )NNOCENTS "APTISM OF #HRIST AND THE 7EDDING AT #ANA 4HE LOWEST TIER HAS FOUR PANELS THAT CAN BE CLEARLY MADE OUT #HRISTS %NTRY INTO *ERUSALEM 4HE ,AST 3UPPER 4HE 7ASH ING OF THE &EET AND #ALVARY 4HE CHURCHS MAGNIlCENTLY PRESERVED ALTAR IS A STILL MORE SIGNIlCANT ARTEFACT BEING ONE OF ONLY A TINY HANDFUL OF DATED WORKS OF ART ANYWHERE IN )TALY OF ,OMBARD VINTAGE n ITS AGE IS OBVIOUS EVEN FROM A CURSORY GLANCE AT THE ALMOST #ELTIC lGURES AND MOTIFS THAT DECORATE ITS TWO MAIN FACES )T WAS CARVED BY 5RSUS THE LEFT OF THE TWO CRUDE lGURES DEPICTED IN THE LOWER FRONT SECTION HIS SIGNATURE IS STILL CLEARLY VISIBLE THE OTHER lGURE IS )LDERICO $UKE OF 3POLETO BETWEEN AND WHO COMMISSIONED THE PIECE 4O EACH SIDE ARE WELL PRESERVED 2OMAN SARCOPHAGI THE RIGHT HAND SPECIMEN n &AROALDOS TOMB n ESPECIALLY APPEALING BACKED BY SOME OF THE GLORIOUSLY COLOURED 'IOTTESQUE FRESCOES C THAT DOT MUCH OF THE APSE AND SHALLOW TRANSEPTS )N THE LEFT TRANSEPT LOOK FOR THE TINY FRESCO ON THE SIDE WALL DEPICTING &AROALDOS VISION OF 3T 0ETER THE DUKE IS SHOWN LYING IN A CANOPIED BED WHILE HIS COMPANIONS PLAY DICE TO THE RIGHT 4HE CAPITALS IN THE APSE ARE PROBABLY FROM THE ORIGINAL 2OMAN BUILDING ON THE SITE LIKELY CROWNING mUTED COLUMNS THAT ARE NOW CONCEALED UNDER THE PLASTERWORK OF SUBSEQUENT CENTURIES 4HREE OTHER CARVED SARCOPHAGI LIE ELSEWHERE IN THE CHURCH ALONG WITH ODD STONE FRAGMENTS AROUND THE WALLS INCLUDING A BAS RELIEF OF A MONK BROUGHT FROM 3YRIA BY REFU GEE #HRISTIANS IN THE SEVENTH CENTURY /N YOUR WAY OUT OF THE ABBEY THE ROUTE CURRENTLY LIES AROUND THE BACK OF THE CHURCH RATHER THAN THROUGH THE CLOISTER TAKE A LOOK AT THE TWELFTH CENTURY CAMPANILE SIMILAR TO THE ,OMBARD INmUENCED TOWERS COMMON IN 2OME AND ,AZIO AND DISTINGUISHED BY FRAGMENTS AND RELIEFS SALVAGED FROM THE EIGHTH CEN TURY CHURCH
4HE 5PPER 6ALNERINA )N THE 5PPER 6ALNERINA NORTH OF 0IEDIPATERNO IS 42)0/.:/ h4HREE "RIDGESv AN ANCIENT HAMLET WHOSE PROMINENT MARKING ON THE MAP BELIES ITS SIZE n JUST A SHOP AND A COUPLE OF HOUSES .ONETHELESS IT WAS MENTIONED BY 6IRGIL WHO TALKED OF THE .ERAS CREAMY WATERS AN ALLUSION TO THE SULPHUROUS SPRINGS THAT FEED INTO THE RIVER HERE *UST BEFORE 4RIPONZO THE 33 HEADS OFF THROUGH A TUNNEL INTO THE DEEP #ORNO VALLEY ON THE WAY TO .ORCIA THE SCEN ERY BECOMING INCREASINGLY WILD AMID STEEP MOUNTAINS CUT BY TEMPTING DESERTED SIDE VALLEYS /N THIS ROAD THERE ARE HOTELS AT THE HAMLET OF ")3%,,) n THE THREE STAR $EI #ACCIATORI CLOSED FOR PERIODS IN $EC *AN n AND KM FARTHER ON AT THE LARGER VILLAGE OF 3%22!6!,,% THE GOOD TWO STAR )TALIA 0RECI
)N THE .ERA VALLEY KM NORTH OF 4RIPONZO LIES THE FORTIlED VILLAGE OF 02%#) A LIKEABLE PLACE DESPITE SOME TERRIBLE DAMAGE IN THE EARTHQUAKE !IM TO
4HE SURGEONS OF 0RECI 0RECI WAS ONCE FAMOUS FOR ITS THIRTY FAMILIES OF SURGEONS WHO FROM THE TWELFTH TO THE MID EIGHTEENTH CENTURY HANDED DOWN THEIR MEDICAL KNOWLEDGE AND HEARSAY FROM GENERATION TO GENERATION /VER THE YEARS THEIR PATIENTS INCLUDED SUCH LUMINARIES AS 0OPE 3IXTUS 6 3ULTAN -EHMED THE #ONQUEROR AND %LIZABETH ) OF %NGLAND 4HEIR MOST NOTORIOUS SIDELINE WAS THE CASTRATION OF YOUNG BOYS FOOLISH ENOUGH TO SHOW OPERATIC POTENTIAL A SPIN OFF THAT DEVELOPED FROM THE TECHNIQUE OF USING CASTRATION TO PREVENT DEATH FROM HERNIA n AN AREA OF EXPERTISE THAT THE 0RECI SURGEONS PICKED UP FROM THEIR WORK ON PIGS 4HE METHODS EMPLOYED WERE ENTIRELY EMPIRICAL IF SOMETHING DIDNT WORK AND THE PATIENT DIED ANOTHER APPROACH WAS TRIED THE NEXT TIME 4HEIR ONLY CLASSROOM WAS THE OPERATING TABLE MORE OFTEN THAN NOT THE PATIENTS KITCHEN TABLE #RUDE ANAESTHETIC n A JUG OF RUM OR STRONG WINE n WOULD BE ADMINISTERED WITH BOILING VINEGAR USED AS A POST OPERATIVE ANTISEPTIC 4HOUGH SOME OF 0RECIS SURGEONS GAINED A REPUTATION FOR THEIR SKILL IN EXTRACTING KIDNEY STONES MOST OF THE DOCTORS WERE QUACKS AND WHEN THE PAPACY INTRODUCED MORE STRINGENT LICENSING OF MEDICAL PRACTITIONERS THE END OF THE TRADITION WAS SWIFT NOT ONE OF 0RECIS SAWBONES WAS GRANTED A LICENCE
3OME KM SOUTH OF 0RECI SIGNPOSTED OFF THE .ORCIA ROAD AT 0IEDIVALLE IS THE RAMBLING MONASTIC COMPLEX OF !BBAZIA DI 3ANT%UTIZIO IRREGULAR OPENING HOURS BUT GENERALLY DAILY AMnNOON nPM FREE )T WAS ONE OF THE CRADLES OF THE "ENEDICTINE MOVEMENT WHICH HELPED PRESERVE MUCH OF 7ESTERN LEARN ING THOUGH THE DEPREDATIONS OF THE $ARK !GES )NITIALLY THE SITE OF A 2OMAN BUILDING THEN A CEMETERY FOR HERMITS WHO HAD LIVED IN THE HILLS IT BECAME A COMMUNITY THAT EVENTUALLY CONTROLLED OVER A HUNDRED CHURCHES AND LOCAL CASTLES ITS DOMAIN EXTENDING AS FAR AS THE !DRIATIC !FTER YEARS OF NEGLECT AND NEAR RUIN IT HAS BEEN EXTENSIVELY RESTORED THANKS LARGELY TO THE EFFORTS OF A SINGLE MONK BASED IN .ORCIA 4HE EFFECT IS PERHAPS A LITTLE TOO POLISHED AND TIDY BUT THERES NO DENYING THE BEAUTY AND TRANQUILLITY OF THE PLACE NOR ITS SEMINAL PLACE IN THE HISTORY OF THE "ENEDICTINES )TS 2OMANESQUE CHURCH BUILT IN HAS A FOURTEENTH CENTURY APSE AND GALLERY AND INSIDE A #RUCIlXION BY .ICOLA DA 3IENA ABOVE THE HIGH ALTAR 4HE ALTAR HOUSES THE SEPULCHRE OF 3T %UTIZIO ONE OF THE EARLY HERMITS WHO WAS KNOWN FOR HIS MISSIONARY ZEAL AND FOR HIS ABILITY TO INDUCE RAIN WHEN THERES A DROUGHT LOCALS STILL PARADE HIS TUNIC ROUND THE lELDS #RAWLING THROUGH THE
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!BBAZIA DI 3ANT%UTIZIO
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ARRIVE IN TIME FOR LUNCH AT THE lRST RATE )L #ASTORO AN INEXPENSIVE RESTAU RANT PIZZERIA IN 6IA 2OMA CLOSED 4HURS IN WINTER AND A PERIOD IN .OV 4HE HOTEL !GLI 3CACCHI WWWHOTELAGLISCACCHI COM HAS A POOL BUT OCCASIONALLY UNRELIABLE PLUMBING .EARBY AT THE HAM LET OF #!34%,6%##()/ IS A BEAUTIFULLY SITED AND TOP GRADE RURAL HOTEL AND CAMPSITE #OLLACCIO WWWILCOLLACCIOCOM WITH A FRIENDLY %NGLISH SPEAKING OWNER POOL AND RIDING CYCLING TENNIS AND HANG GLIDING 4HERE ARE WOODEN CHALETS FOR RENT THAT SLEEP FOUR TO SIX PEOPLE + WEEKLY IN SUMMER AND A FARMHOUSE WITH HOTEL ROOMS AS WELL AS A CHEAP RESTAURANT SERVING HUGE PORTIONS &ROM 0RECI THE MOST DIRECT ROUTE TO .ORCIA CONTINUES UP THE VALLEY PAST 0IE DIVALLE TO THE &ORCA D!NCARANO PASS SEE BELOW ! LONGER ALTERNATIVE RUNS NORTH THROUGH 6ISSO IN THE -ARCHE THEN ONWARDS BY THE DESOLATE AND STUNNING ROAD OVER THE 0ASSO DI 'UALDO M AND THROUGH #ASTELLUCCIO SEE P
SPECIALLY CONSTRUCTED TUNNEL BELOW THE ALTAR IS SUPPOSED TO GUARANTEE RELIEF FROM ALL MANNER OF BACK AILMENTS $OWN IN THE CRYPT ARE A COUPLE OF VAST SANDSTONE COLUMNS PERHAPS REMNANTS OF THE ORIGINAL 2OMAN BUILDING ON THE SITE 3TEPS BEHIND THE ABBEY CHURCH TO THE RIGHT OF THE FOUNTAIN LEAD TO THE CAVES OF THE EARLIEST MONKS ACCORDING TO 'REGORY THE 'REAT IT WAS IN THESE GROTTOES THAT "ENEDICT n IN CONVERSATION WITH %UTIZIO AND A FELLOW HERMIT 3PES n DISCOVERED HIS RELIGIOUS VOCATION &ROM #AMPI TO .ORCIA
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4HE ROAD SOUTH FROM THE !BBAZIA DI 3ANT%UTIZIO RUNS FOR KM THROUGH DELIGHTFUL AND PASTORAL COUNTRY THE #ASTORIANA AND .IDA VALLEYS WHICH ONCE MADE UP ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT NORTH TO SOUTH TRADING ROUTES IN THIS PART OF THE !PENNINES )T PASSES LITTLE MEDIEVAL HAMLETS SUCH AS 0IEDIVALLE AND #!-0) *UST BEFORE THE LATTER IS THE CHURCH OF 3AN 3ALVATORE A DOUBLE FRONTED 2OMANESQUE BEAUTY GLEAMING FROM RESTORATION WORK NECESSITATED BY THE EARTHQUAKE THAT RAVAGED THE 6ALNERINA THE FAULT LINE RUNS ALONG THIS VALLEY MORE OR LESS IN FRONT OF THE CHURCH )TS RARELY OPEN BUT THE INTERIOR IS SMOTHERED WITH FRESCOES BY 'IOVANNI AND !NTONIO 3PARAPANE A lFTEENTH CENTURY DYNASTY OF PAINTERS ACTIVE AROUND 3POLETO AND THE 6ALNERINA !BOVE IS THE VILLAGE OF #!-0) 6%##() ARCHED ACROSS THE WOODED HILLSIDE TO THE NORTH TO REACH IT DRIVE THROUGH #AMPI AND KEEP YOUR EYES OPEN FOR THE YELLOW SIGN DIRECTING YOU TO 3ANT!NDREA THE CHURCH CLEARLY VISIBLE AT THE SIDE OF THE VILLAGE ITS PORTICO FRAMING ONE OF THE LOVELIEST VIEWS IN THE AREA 4HE KEY TO THE CHURCH IS KEPT BY A WOMAN IN THE VILLAGE n WITH YOUR BACK TO THE BUILD ING WALK DOWN THE STEPS AND TAKE THE LANE RIGHT IN THE LITTLE PIAZZA THE HOUSE IS ABOUT FOUR DOWN ON THE RIGHT 4HE CUSTODIAN MAY ALSO REGALE YOU WITH STORIES OF THE CHOLERA PIT BENEATH THE CHURCH AND THE EVIL PRINCESS BURIED UNDER THE INVERTED 2OMAN INSCRIPTION ON THE FACADE AS WELL AS SHOW YOU THE BEAUTIFULLY KEPT INTERIOR LEAVE A GENEROUS TIP 3HE ALSO HOLDS THE KEY TO THE CHAPEL OF 3ANTA -ARIA DI 0IAZZA IN THE SAME LITTLE STREET AS HER HOUSE ABOUT M DOWN ON THE RIGHT BUT SO BROKEN AND WELL DISGUISED YOU COULD WALK PAST IT 4HE VAULTS ARE COVERED IN SEVERAL SUPERBLY WELL PRESERVED AND ACCOMPLISHED FRESCOES ON THE ,IFE OF THE 6IRGIN THE WORK OF THE 3PARAPANE /THER AREAS OF FRESCOES HAVE BEEN REVEALED ON THE WHITEWASHED WALLS BUT THERES NO MONEY AT PRESENT TO PAY FOR THEIR RESTORATION !CROSS THE VALLEY !"%4/ AND 4/$)!./ VILLAGES APPEAR INVITINGLY OVER THE WOODS AND HILLY RIDGES n BUT THOUGH THEY WERE ONCE STUFFED WITH PAINTINGS AND OTHER WORKS OF ART NOW IN 3POLETOS -USEO $IOCESANO THEYVE BECOME WEIRDLY AND ALMOST COMPLETELY DESERTED #ONTINUING ON THE ROAD TO .ORCIA KM SOUTH OF 0IEDIVALLE BEYOND 3ANT!NGELO YOU CLIMB TO M AT &ORCA D!NCARANO A PASS WHICH AFFORDS SPECTACULAR VIEWS OVER SURROUNDING MOUN TAINS BEFORE THE PRECIPITOUS DROP DOWN TO .ORCIA
.ORCIA
.OTED ON THE ONE HAND AS THE BIRTHPLACE OF 3T "ENEDICT n FOUNDER OF 7EST ERN MONASTICISM n AND ON THE OTHER AS ONE OF )TALYS GREAT CULINARY CAPITALS ./2#)! IS SMALL WALLED AND STOLID THE ONLY PLACE OF SUBSTANCE IN EASTERN 5MBRIA )TS AIR OF FAINT DESOLATION AND LOW STURDY HOUSES ARE A WORLD AWAY FROM THE BUCOLIC TOWNS TO THE WEST A CONTRAST EXPLAINED BY THE CONSTANT THREAT OF EARTHQUAKES 4HICK WALLED AND HEAVILY BUTTRESSED .ORCIAS BUILDINGS HAVE BEEN
5 ! SHOP IN .ORCIA SELLING TRUFmES AND OTHER LOCAL PRODUCE
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3 0/, % 4/ ! . $ 4 ( % 6! , .% 2 ) .! .ORCIA
COMPULSORILY STUNTED SINCE WHEN A LAW FORBADE THE RAISING OF HOUSES OVER M HIGH 4HE LAST TREMOR A PARTICULARLY VIOLENT ONE WAS IN OUTSIDE TOWN YOULL SEE RANKS OF TEMPORARY HOUSING READY FOR THE NEXT BIG ONE !T THE SAME TIME .ORCIA IS A PROSPEROUS AND LIKEABLE PLACE THE SORT OF TOWN WHERE EVERYTHING WORKS AND EVERYBODY KNOWS EVERYONE ELSE )TS STREETS ARE RELIEVED BY GLIMPSES OF THE MOUNTAINS VIEWS OF WHICH UNFOLD UNEXPECTEDLY AT MANY CORNERS 4HE TOWN CAN SERVE AS THE BASE FOR SOME GOOD TRIPS INTO THE -ONTI 3IBILLINI AND 0IANO 'RANDE SEE P AND NORTH TO THE #ASTORIANA VALLEY AND ABBEY OF 3ANT%UTIZIO ! NEW ROAD THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS INTO THE -ARCHE EMERGING JUST ABOVE !RQUARTA DEL 4RONTO ALSO LOOKS SET TO OPEN UP THE AREA .ORCIA HAS BEEN INHABITED SINCE PREHISTORIC TIMES THANKS TO ITS ABUNDANT SPRINGS lNE AGRICULTURAL LAND AND A VITAL POSITION COMMANDING ONE OF THE LOWEST EAST TO WEST ROUTES ACROSS THE !PENNINES !NCIENT .ORCIA WAS THE NORTHERNMOST TOWN OF THE 3ABINES CONTEMPORARIES OF THE 5MBRIANS BEFORE BECOMING .URSIA A MINOR 2OMAN MUNICIPIO "# !FTER THE ATTENTIONS OF SIXTH CENTURY BARBARIANS RECOVERY TOOK A LONG TIME TO COME n AND WHEN IT DID EARTHQUAKES PERIODICALLY DISCOURAGED LONG TERM DEVELOPMENT &OR lVE CENTURIES BEFORE )TALIAN 5NIlCATION THOUGH THE TOWN WAS EFFECTIVELY A FRONTIER POST BETWEEN THE 0APAL 3TATES AND THE KINGDOM OF .APLES MAKING IT A SAFE HAVEN FOR BANDITS AND REFUGEES FROM OPPOSING SIDES 0APAL REACTION WAS TO BUILD THE #ASTELLINA IN A HUGE BLUNT FORTRESS THAT DOMINATES THE TOWN CENTRE 4HEREAFTER .ORCIA AND THE SURROUNDING COUNTRYSIDE WAS DRAINED BY EMIGRATION A TREND THAT CONTINUES TODAY BUT WHOSE EFFECTS HAVE BEEN TEMPERED BY THE SUC CESS OF ITS SMALL FOOD PROCESSING CONCERNS
!RRIVAL INFORMATION AND ACCOMMODATION .ORCIA IS WELL SERVED BY BUSES FROM 3POLETO 4ERNI 0ERUGIA &OLIGNO AND !SSISI THEY DROP OFF AT THE 0ORTA 2OMANA FROM WHERE ITS A STRAIGHT WALK ON #ORSO 3ER TORIO TO THE CENTRAL 0IAZZA 3AN "ENEDETTO 4HERES NO TOURIST OFlCE THE OFlCES OF THE 6IGILI 5RBANI LOCATED UNDER THE ARCHES OF THE 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE OFTEN
4RUFFLES
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4HOUGH DISCONCERTINGLY TURD LIKE IN APPEARANCE WEIGHT FOR WEIGHT TRUFmES ARE ONE OF THE WORLDS COSTLIEST FOODSTUFFS n ONLY SAFFRON COSTS MORE .ORCIA IS ONE OF )TALYS TRUFmE CAPITALS HOME TO THE FABLED BLACK TRUFmE n 4UBER MELANOSPORUM n PURSUED WITH A GREAT DEAL MORE FANFARE IN &RANCE )TALYS OTHER MUSHROOMING HEARTLAND IS THE COUNTRYSIDE AROUND !LBA NESTLED IN THE 0IEDMONTESE HILLS BUT THERE THE PRIZE IS THE 4UBER MAGNATUM THE WHITE TRUFmE 4RUFmES HAVE BEEN KNOWN IF NOT UNDERSTOOD SINCE ANCIENT TIMES 4HE lRST WRITTEN RECORD DATES FROM THE TH CENTURY "# 4HEY WERE ENJOYED BY THE "ABYLONIANS THE 'REEKS AND THE 2OMANS WHO CONSUMED THEM AS MUCH FOR THEIR REPUTED APHRODISIAC QUALITIES AS THEIR GASTRONOMIC ALLURE 0LUTARCH BELIEVED THEY WERE MUD COOKED BY LIGHTNING *UVENAL THAT THEY WERE THE PRODUCT OF THUNDER AND RAIN 0LINY BEWILDERED BY THEIR ORIGINS CONSIDERED THEM .ATURES GREATEST MIRACLE )N THE -IDDLE !GES THEY WERE CONSIDERED A MANIFESTATION OF THE $EVIL !ND NO WONDER FOR HERE WAS A PLANT APPARENTLY WITHOUT ROOT BRANCH OR STEM WITHOUT LEAF FRUIT OR mOWER LACKING IN FACT ALL VISIBLE MEANS OF GROWTH 4RUFmES ARE ACTUALLY SUBTERRANEAN FUNGI OF THE CLASS !SCOMYCETES PART OF THE 4UBER GENUS A SPECIES WHICH OVER THE COURSE OF MILLION YEARS HAS DISAPPEARED UNDERGROUND PROBABLY AS PART OF AN EVOLUTIONARY DEFENCE AGAINST THE WEATHER 4HEIR UNDERGROUND EXISTENCE PRECLUDES PHOTOSYNTHESIS MEANING THEY RELY FOR NUTRIENTS ON A SYMBIOTIC RELATIONSHIP WITH THE ROOTS OF CERTAIN TREES MOST COMMONLY THE OAK HAZEL BEECH AND LIME 5NLIKE A NORMAL MUSHROOM THEIR SPORES ARE SPREAD NOT BY THE WIND BUT BY TRUFmE EATING ANIMALS SUCH AS RODENTS DEER SLUGS AND WILD BOAR n AND TO ENSURE THEYRE SNUFmED UP THEY NEED TO ADVERTISE THEIR PRESENCE !ND THIS IS WHERE THE TRUFmES FAMOUS PERFUME n AND DOGS AND PIGS n COME IN 4HE FUNGI MATURE SLOWLY OFTEN OVER THE COURSE OF SEVERAL MONTHS ATTAINING THEIR lNAL DIMENSIONS n ANYTHING FROM THE SIZE OF A PEA TO THE SIZE OF A FOOTBALL n OVER A FEW DAYS DURING THE SPRING /NLY WHEN RIPE n FROM ABOUT .OVEMBER ONWARDS n DO THEY GIVE OFF THEIR DISTINCTIVE PERFUME AND ONLY THEN FOR ABOUT TEN DAYS THUS ENSUR ING THEYRE SNAFmED UP ONLY WHEN LADEN WITH VIABLE SPORES 4HEREAFTER THEY BECOME POISONOUS AND ROT 0IGS AND TRUFmES ONCE WENT TOGETHER PIGS BEING FOREMOST AMONG THE SLEUTHS INCLINED TO NOSE THEM OUT GOATS FOXES FERRETS AND n IN 2USSIA n EVEN BEAR CUBS ARE USED 0IGS LOVE TRUFmES n AT LEAST FEMALE ONES DO n FOR AMONG THE VOLATILE COMPOUNDS EXUDED BY THE TRUFmE IS ONE THAT RESEMBLES THE MUSKY PHEROMONES OF THE WILD BOAR 4HIS IS ALL WELL AND GOOD BUT NOT ONLY ARE SOWS HUGE AND DIFlCULT TO MANAGE THEYRE ALSO PRONE TO ATTACKS OF SEXUAL FRENZY WHEN CLOSE TO A TRUFmE $OGS ARE THEREFORE NOW PREFERRED AND CAN BE WORTH ANYTHING UP TO a WHEN TRAINED 4HERE ARE COUNTLESS TYPES OF TRUFmE .INE ARE EDIBLE THOUGH ONLY SIX ARE WELL KNOWN AND COMMERCIALIZED &OUR ARE CONSIDERED A DELICACY AND OF THESE TWO ARE FOUND IN QUANTITY AROUND .ORCIA AND 3POLETO 6ARIETIES MATURE AT DIFFERENT DEPTHS AND AT DIFFERENT TIMES OF THE YEAR SO THAT !PRIL AND -AY ARE THE ONLY TIMES OF THE YEAR WHEN FRESH TRUFmES ARE NOT AVAILABLE 5MBRIAS MOST COMMON TYPE IS THE TARTUFO
HAVE MAPS AND INFORMATION ON THE TOWN WHILE IN THE SOUTHEAST CORNER OF 0IAZZA 3AN "ENEDETTO AND JUST OUTSIDE THE 0ORTA !SCOLANA ARE TABACCHI THAT SELL WALKING MAPS AND GUIDES n HANDY IF YOURE GOING ON INTO THE 3IBILLINI 4HE HOTEL BAR IN #ASTELLUCCIO SEE P ALSO USUALLY HAS COPIES 4HERE IS A PARK OFlCE FOR THE 3IBILLINI NATIONAL PARK AT 6IA 3OLFERINO *UNEn3EPT DAILY AMnPM nPM REST OF THE YEAR MORNINGS ONLY WWWSIBILLINI NET WHICH OFFERS PLENTY OF INFORMATION ON BOTH THE TOWN AND THE MOUNTAINS &IRST ACCOMMODATION CHOICE ON A BUDGET IS THE #ASA 2ELIGIOSA 3AN "ENE DETTO 6IA DELLE 6ERGINI ALL ROOMS HAVE BATHROOMS
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AND THERE ARE GOOD HALF AND FULL BOARD DEALS AVAILABLE /R THERE IS A HOSTEL THE /STELLO .ORCIA 6IA 5FENTE B OR WWW MONTEPATINOCOM BEDS + SLEEPING PEOPLE IN TWO FOUR lVE AND TEN BED ROOMS 4HE EIGHT ROOMS OF THE ONE STAR $A "ENITO 6IA -ARCONI WWWHOTELBENITOIT ARE ADEQUATE AND CENTRAL BUT IF YOU CAN AFFORD THE EXTRA GET A ROOM AT THE LIVELIER 'ROTTA !ZZURRA 6IA !LlERI WWWBIANCONICOM THE BEST BUSIEST AND FRIENDLIEST HOTEL IN TOWN 5NDER THE SAME MANAGEMENT IS THE 3ALICONE WWBIANCONICOM JUST OUTSIDE THE WALLS AT 0ORTA 2OMANA A VERY SMART
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NERO GATHERED FROM A FEW CENTIMETRES BELOW THE GROUND BETWEEN MID .OVEMBER AND MID -ARCH -ORE PRIZED IS THE TARTUFO PREGIATO AVAILABLE OVER THE SAME PERIOD 2ARER ARE THE TWO SUMMER AND AUTUMN SCORZONE VARIETIES "UT WHY ALL THE FUSS 4HE FUNGIS PERFUME HAS BEEN COMPARED TO LEAF MOULD OVER RIPE CHEESE GARLIC METHANE AND ARMPITS "UT FOR ENTHUSIASTS THE APPEAL LIES IN THE TRUFmES UNIQUE AND SUBTLE mAVOUR %LIZABETH $AVID IN HER CLASSIC COOKBOOK )TALIAN &OOD CALLED THEM THE hMOST DELICIOUS OF ALL FOODS ANYWHEREv "RILLAT 3AVERIN THE FAMOUS NINETEENTH CENTURY &RENCH GASTRONOME STATED THAT hWITHOUT TRUFmES THERE CAN BE NO TRULY GASTRONOMIC MEALv 4HE TRUFmES MYSTERY ITS SEEMINGLY SPONTANEOUS APPEARANCE AND ETHEREAL EXIS TENCE IS ALSO IMPORTANT 3O TOO IS THE RARITY AND THRILL OF THE HUNT n ITS THE ONLY GOURMET FOOD INDEED ONE OF THE ONLY FOODS OF ANY DESCRIPTION THAT CANT BE GROWN TO ORDER 4HE TRUFmE IS GLORIOUSLY UNPREDICTABLE A FACT THAT HAS MADE COMMERCIAL CULTIVATION SOMETHING OF AN AGRICULTURAL (OLY 'RAIL /NE TREE WILL YIELD TRUFmES WHILE ITS APPARENTLY IDENTICAL NEIGHBOUR WILL NOT n AND NOBODY KNOWS WHY -ONEY ALSO PLAYS ITS PART -ANY A CAVATORE OR TRUFmE HUNTER SELLS EITHER DIRECTLY TO A RESTAURANT OR MORE LIKELY THAN NOT TO AN AGENT WORKING FOR 3IGNOR 5RBANI KING OF THE TRUFmE WORLD WHOSE SMALL COMPANY BASED IN 3CHEGGINO SEE P A VIL LAGE A FEW KILOMETRES FROM .ORCIA CONTROLS PERCENT OF THE WORLDS TRUFmE TRADE 4RUFmES AFTER ALL ARE BIG BUSINESS A KILO OF WHITE !LBAN TRUFmES COULD BE YOURS FOR AROUND a AN EQUIVALENT QUANTITY OF "ELUGA CAVIAR COSTS AROUND a "LACK TRUFmES OF THE TYPE FOUND IN &RANCE AND 5MBRIA RETAIL AT AROUND a A KILO 3O VALUABLE ARE THE lNDS THAT ITS NOT UNUSUAL FOR PEOPLE TO HUNT AT NIGHT EQUIPPED WITH A TORCH AND TROWEL SEARCHING A SPOT WHERE DOGS HAVE SNIFFED OUT THEIR PREY EARLIER IN THE DAY %VERY ASPECT OF TRUFmE EXPLOITATION IS CONTROLLED BY LAW FROM HUNTING AND lNAL SALE TO THE OWNERSHIP OF LAND RIGHTS AND THE PRECISE DElNITION OF VARIETIES BUT IN PRACTICE MOST PEOPLE MOONLIGHT LITERALLY WITH ONLY THOSE WORKING FOR LARGE PRODUCERS BEING OBLIGED TO OBEY THE BUREAUCRATIC NICETIES /LD TIMERS SAY THIS FREE FOR ALL A RELATIVELY RECENT PHENOMENON IS RUINING THE BUSINESS AS NEWCOMERS RAVAGE OLD BEDS FOR SHORT TERM GAIN THEREBY DESTROYING YIELDS NOT ONLY FOR A SEASON BUT FOR YEARS TO COME 9OULL lND SHOPS ALL OVER .ORCIA SELLING TRUFmE PASTE TRUFmES UNDER OIL TO PRESERVE THEM AND TRUFmE mAVOURED OILS CHEESES LIQUEURS PÊTÏS n EVEN TRUFmE CHOCOLATE &OR THE REAL THING HOWEVER HEAD FOR THE 'ROTTA !ZZURRAS TREMENDOUS RESTAURANT A TEMPLE TO 5MBRIAN CUISINE SEE P )F YOU ENJOY TRUFmES YOULL BE IN EXALTED COMPANY n ,OUIS 86))) .APOLEON #HURCHILL AND 2ITA (AYWORTH WERE ALL PASSIONATE DEVOTEES OF THE MYSTERIOUS TUBER 3O TOO HOWEVER WAS THE UNFORTUNATE $UKE OF #LARENCE )N SO THE STORY GOES THE HAP LESS DUKE APPROACHING HIS WEDDING NIGHT AND A FRISKY )TALIAN WIFE WITH SOME TREPIDA TION SO GORGED ON WHITE TRUFmES n ANXIOUS TO ENLIST THEIR APHRODISIAC SUPPORT n THAT HE COLLAPSED AND DIED BEFORE HE COULD TEST THEIR AMATORY POWERS 7HERE THE TRUFmE IS CONCERNED THEREFORE THE WATCHWORDS ARE EATER BEWARE
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THREE STAR HOTEL WITH SOME OF THE BEST SPORTS FACILITIES IN CENTRAL )TALY ALL SORTS OF LEADING SOCCER VOLLEYBALL BASKETBALL AND OTHER SPORTS TEAMS FROM ACROSS %UROPE HAVE COME TO TRAIN HERE 9OULL ALSO SPOT THREE OR FOUR MODERN HOTELS OUTSIDE THE 0ORTA 2OMANA ! SHORT WALK OUT OF TOWN TO THE EAST OFFERS SCOPE FOR FREELANCE CAMPING
4HE 4OWN 4HE MAIN 0IAZZA 3AN "ENEDETTO IS A LARGE OPEN AREA WITH SOMETHING OF A (IGH .OON ATMOSPHERE IN MID AFTERNOON BUT AT OTHER TIMES IS THE LIVELY FOCUS OF THE TOWNS COMINGS AND GOINGS )TS PRESIDED OVER BY A STATUE OF A SUITABLY SEVERE AND DISAPPROVING "ENEDICT ERECTED IN ON THE TH ANNIVERSARY OF HIS BIRTH AND THESE DAYS LIBERALLY ADORNED WITH FOOTBALL mAGS HATS AND SCARVES AFTER VICTORIES BY THE !ZZURRI THE )TALIAN NATIONAL TEAM OR -ILAN OR *UVE )N EARLIER CENTURIES THE SQUARE WAS THE SITE OF A BULLRING AND A PLACE OF EXECUTION FOR WITCHES TRAITORS ADULTERERS AND NECROMANCERS 3AN "ENEDETTO
4HE PIAZZAS MOST ARRESTING SIGHT IS THE CHURCH OF 3AN "ENEDETTO BUILT ACCORD ING TO LEGEND OVER THE HOUSE WHERE "ENEDICT AND HIS SISTER 3T 3CHOLASTICA WERE BORN ITS MORE LIKELY TO HAVE BEEN THE SITE OF A 2OMAN TEMPLE AS THE SQUARE ITSELF WAS THE SITE OF THE FORUM $ESPITE REPEATED POST EARTHQUAKE RECONSTRUC TIONS THE FACADE n SOLE SURVIVOR FROM THE ORIGINAL n REMAINS AN ATTRACTIVE TWO TIERED AFFAIR ITS DESIGN TYPICAL OF SEVERAL CHURCHES IN THE REGION NOTABLY 3AN
&RANCESCO AND 3ANT!GOSTINO IN .ORCIA ITSELF )T FEATURES A LOVELY 'OTHIC PORTAL ROSE WINDOW NICHE STATUES OF "ENEDICT AND 3CHOLASTICA AND A FOURTEENTH CEN TURY CAMPANILE TO THE REAR $URING .ORCIAS BLAST FURNACE SUMMERS THE NEWER ARCHED GALLERY TO THE RIGHT PROVIDES WELCOME SHADE AND IT HAS A DRINKING FOUNTAIN TOO .OTICE ALSO THE UNUSUAL OLD STONE MEASURES USED FOR SELLING OR DISTRIBUTING WINE AND OLIVE OIL WHEN THE GALLERY WAS USED AS A MARKET /N THE LEFT AS YOU ENTER THE CHURCH IS A GOOD RESTORED NICHE FRESCO n POSSIBLY THE WORK OF &RANCESCO 3PARAPANE ONE OF A DYNASTY OF LOCAL lFTEENTH CENTURY PAINTERS n OF 33 "ARBARA AND -ICHAEL WITH A -ADONNA AND #HILD ABOVE 4HE ONLY OTHER WORTHWHILE PAINTING IS &ILIPPO .APOLETANOS 3T "ENEDICT AND 4OTILA LOCATED IN THE LEFT ARM OF THE LEFT TRANSEPT $OWN IN THE CRYPT EXCAVATED AS RECENTLY AS THE LITTLE APSE AT THE HEAD OF THE LEFT AISLE IS TRADITIONALLY HELD TO BE THE PLACE WHERE "ENEDICT AND 3CHOLASTICA WERE BORN )TS HALF COVERED IN FADED FRESCOES DEPICTING THE !NNUNCIATION .ATIVITY AND OTHER SCENES 3TONE FRAG MENTS OF A LATE 2OMAN EDIlCE ARE VISIBLE CLOSED OFF NEARBY MAKING THIS BY FAR THE MOST EVOCATIVE PART OF THE CHURCH ,A #ASTELLINA
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3 0/, % 4/ ! . $ 4 ( % 6! , .% 2 ) .! .ORCIA
!CROSS THE SQUARE FROM 3AN "ENEDETTO IS THE UNMISSABLE #ASTELLINA AN EXTRAOR DINARILY GAUNT FORTRESS WITH NO CONCESSIONS TO ARCHITECTURAL SUBTLETY 4HE SUPERB GRANITE LIONS OUTSIDE CAME ORIGINALLY FROM THE CRYPT OF 3AN "ENEDETTO )T WAS BUILT ON THE SITE OF A "ENEDICTINE PRIORY AND .ORCIAS OLD PARISH CHURCH FOR 0OPE *ULIUS ))) BY THE USUALLY SOPHISTICATED 6IGNOLA AND NOW HOUSES THE TOWNS -USEO #IVICO 4HE WHOLE COMPLEX WAS SHUT FOR DECADES UNTIL WHEN SUPERB RESTORATION WORK ON THE CASTLE AND ITS INTERIOR WAS COMPLETED 2EGULAR HOURS HAVE PROVED HARD TO ESTABLISH CURRENTLY IT SHOULD BE OPEN -AYn3EPT 4UESn3UN nPM nPM PLUS UNSPECIlED WINTER HOURS WWW ARTENORCIANET IF ITS OPEN BOTH THE BUILDING AND THE HANDFUL OF TOP QUALITY EXHIBITS ARE WELL WORTH THE ADMISSION + -OST OF THE ROOMS WHICH LOOK DOWN PRETTILY ONTO THE SQUARE ARE TAKEN UP WITH SCULPTURES THE HIGHLIGHTS BEING A RARE THIRTEENTH CENTURY $EPOSITION n lVE lGURES IN ALL n A 3T 3EBASTIAN MINUS ARROWS AND A POIGNANT LIFE SIZE GLAZED TERRACOTTA -ADONNA BY !NDREA DELLA 2OBBIA !MONG THE PAINTINGS LOOK OUT FOR A BIZARRE 2ISEN #HRIST BY .ICOLA DA 3IENA IN WHICH A NEAR NAKED BUT CURIOUSLY SEXLESS #HRIST IS SHOWN STEPPING FORCEFULLY FROM HIS MARBLE SEPULCHRE 4HERE IS ALSO A LOVELY PICTURE ATTACHED TO A CASKET LID OF "ENEDICT AND 3CHOLASTICA THE FORMER SHOWN HOLDING A PAINTED CHURCH AS WELL AS A BEAUTIFULLY RESTORED -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 3AINTS BY 'IACOMO DI 'IOVANNOFRIO THE 6IRGIN SITTING ATOP A GLORIOUSLY DECORATED THRONE BENEATH A COFFERED 2ENAISSANCE VAULT 4HE $UOMO AND THE 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE
!LMOST BESIDE THE #ASTELLINA IS THE LARGELY UNINTERESTING SIXTEENTH CENTURY $UOMO ITS LESS THAN DOMINATING POSITION A RESULT OF COMPARATIVE MODERNITY ITS FORLORN INTERIOR THE LEGACY OF COUNTLESS EARTHQUAKES )T DOES HAVE ONE OUT STANDING WORK HOWEVER THE #APPELLA DELLA -ADONNA DELLA -ISERICORDIA LOCATED AT THE END OF THE NORTH AISLE AND CONSISTING OF AN ORNATE ALTAR n OF INLAID MARBLE WHOSE APPEARANCE SO AT ODDS WITH CENTRAL )TALIAN WORK OF THE PERIOD HAS LED EXPERTS TO ATTRIBUTE IT TO &RANCESCO $UQUESNOY A NOTED SCULPTOR IN THE EMPLOY OF THE .EAPOLITAN COURT !T THE HEART OF THE ALTAR IS AN EARLY SIXTEENTH CENTURY PAINTING PROBABLY BY &RANCESCO 3PARAPANE THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 33 "ENEDICT AND 3CHOLASTICA "ENEDICT IS SHOWN POINTING TO A PAINTED MINIATURE OF .ORCIA WHOSE PROMINENT 'OTHIC CAMPANILE NO LONGER EXISTS HAVING COLLAPSED IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY
#OMPLETING 0IAZZA 3AN "ENEDETTOS ENSEMBLE IS THE NOW SUPERBLY RESTORED 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE ODDLY BUT BEAUTIFULLY MULTICOLOURED AND BASED AROUND A PORTICO AND LATER ADDITIONS WHICH BLEND DELIGHTFULLY TO CREATE THE TOWNS MOST DISTINCTIVE BUILDING 4HE REST OF THE TOWN
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\ .ORCIA
.ORTHEAST OF 0IAZZA 3AN "ENEDETTO IS THE 4EMPIETTO OR %DICOLA LITERALLY h+IOSKv ONE OF THE TOWNS MORE UNUSUAL BUILDINGS "UILT IN BY 6ANNI 4UZI ITS A SMALL ARCHED STRUCTURE DECORATED WITH BAS RELIEFS AND OPEN TO THE STREET ON ALL SIDES )TS PURPOSE IS UNKNOWN BUT IT MAY HAVE BEEN COMMISSIONED IN HONOUR OF 3AN &ELICIANUS WHO EVANGELIZED .ORCIA AS A SHRINE TO BE USED IN (OLY 7EEK PROCESSIONS n HENCE THE SIGNS OF THE 0ASSION WHICH lGURE AMONG ITS DECORATION POSSIBLY IT WAS USED AS A CONTRA PESTUM A VOTIVE OFFERING AGAINST THE PLAGUE AN EPIDEMIC RAVAGED MUCH OF )TALY AT THE TIME THAT THE WORK WAS BUILT "EYOND IS A QUARTER OF TOWN THAT FELL INTO DISREPAIR DURING THE -IDDLE !GES AND WAS TAKEN OVER BY SHEPHERDS FROM #ASTELLUCCIO !DOPTING IT AS THEIR OWN THEY BUILT SMALL HOUSES n COMPLETE WITH STALLS FOR THEIR SHEEP n AMIDST A JUMBLE OF STREETS THAT CONTRASTS WITH THE CENTRAL GRID ,OOK OUT FOR THE CHURCH OF 3ANT!NTONIO !BATE n THE SHEPHERDS SAINT INVOKED TO PROTECT THEIR mOCKS n AND THE NEARBY 3AN 'IOVANNI KNOWN FOR ITS WOODEN CEILING AND MAGNIlCENT 2ENAISSANCE ALTAR OF THE -ADONNA DELLA 0ALLA LOCATED ON THE RIGHT WALL THE ARCHED AND GILT MARBLE SURROUND FRAMES A PAINTING OF THE EPONYMOUS -ADONNA SO CALLED BECAUSE SOMEONE IS SUPPOSED TO HAVE KICKED A BALL PALLA AGAINST THE PAINTING CAUSING THE 6IRGINS EXPRESSION TO CHANGE MIRACULOUSLY AT AN ACT OF SUCH WANTON SACRILEGE
&OOD SHOPS 0IAZZA 3AN "ENEDETTOS OTHER MAIN COMPONENT IS ITS FOOD SHOPS NO SMALL CONSIDER ATION IN A TOWN RENOWNED FOR ITS CULINARY DELIGHTS !NYTHING THAT CAN BE DONE TO A PIG FOOD WISE THE .ORCIANS APPARENTLY DO AND BETTER THAN ANYONE ELSE n WHICH IS WHY YOULL SEE BUTCHERS IN OTHER PARTS OF )TALY CALLED 5N .ORCINO 3AUSAGES SALAMI HAMS AND WILD BOAR REPUTEDLY THE COUNTRYS BEST ARE ALL IN ABUNDANCE AS ARE LESS APPETIZ ING NON PORCINE DELICACIES SUCH AS MOUNTAIN RAM AND SAUSAGE lLLED SACS CLAIMING TO BE MULES TESTICLES /N THIS THEME ITS WORTH NOTING THAT .ORCIAN BUTCHERS IN THE PAST HAD A NOTORIOUS SIDELINE NAMELY THE CASTRATION OF YOUNG BOYS A SKILL PASSED DOWN BY THE SURGEONS OF 0RECI SEE P AND HONED BY THEIR WORK ON SIMILARLY LUCKLESS PIGS ! LEG CROSSING CONTEMPORARY ACCOUNT SURVIVES WHICH DESCRIBES THE PROCEDURE ;THE BOY= WOULD BE hDRUGGED WITH OPIUM OR SOME OTHER NARCOTIC PLACED IN A VERY HOT BATH UNTIL HE WAS IN A STATE OF VIRTUAL INSENSIBILITY 4HEN THE DUCTS LEADING TO THE TESTICLES WERE SEVERED SO THAT THE LATTER IN THE COURSE OF TIME SHRIVELLED AND DISAPPEAREDv 4HE ONLY CASTRATO TO MAKE A RECORDING $OMENICO -USTAFA WHO DIED IN HAVING ALSO BEEN DIRECTOR OF THE 3ISTINE #HAPEL CHOIR WAS A .ORCIAN GRADUATE ,OCAL MOUNTAIN CHEESES ARE EXCELLENT TOO n TWO YEARS OLD AND NEVER IN A FRIDGE n AND IF lNANCES PERMIT YOU COULD INDULGE IN THE AREAS BLACK TRUFmE 4HE SEASON RUNS FROM *ANUARY TO !PRIL BUT ALL YEAR YOU CAN SAMPLE THE FOUL TRUFmE DIGESTIVO CALLED !MARO DI 4ARTUFO TRUFmE GRAPPA AND EVEN TRUFmE CHOCOLATES 4HE "AR 6IGNOLA WITH OUTSIDE TABLES BETWEEN 3AN "ENEDETTO AND THE #ASTELLINA IS A GOOD PLACE TO INDULGE IN THESE OR MORE STANDARD REFRESHMENTS 4HE SHOP TO THE LEFT ONE OF THE TOWNS MORE PUNGENT OFFERS A GOOD SELECTION OF GENUINE PRODUCTS DONT BE PUT OFF BY THE CHEERFUL SALES PATTER OF THE OWNER AS DOES -OSCATELLI MIDWAY DOWN #ORSO 3ERTORIO ON THE LEFT AS YOU HEAD TOWARDS THE WALLS "EST OF ALL OFF THE PIAZZA AND ROUND THE BEND TO THE EAST BEHIND 3AN "ENEDETTO IS THE GENERATIONS OLD !NSUINI 6IA !NICIA SURELY ONE OF THE BEST FOOD SHOPS IN THIS OR ANY OTHER )TALIAN REGION
4HE CHURCH OF 3ANT!GOSTINO LOCATED IN 6IA !NICIA IS HALF lLLED WITH SURPRISINGLY ACCOMPLISHED AND WELL PRESERVED FRESCOES THOSE ON THE ENTRANCE WALL DEPICTING AMONG OTHER THINGS THE GRISLY MARTYRDOMS OF SEVERAL SAINTS !LSO MAKE TIME FOR THE TREMENDOUS WOODEN CEILING OF THE /RATORIO DI 3ANT!GOSTINUCCIO JUST BEHIND 0IAZZA 0ALATINA
%ATING AND DRINKING 9OUD BE FOOLISH NOT TO TRY LOCAL SPECIALITIES IN .ORCIAS RESTAURANTS THE MOST LAUDED OF WHICH n IN MOST )TALIAN FOODIE GUIDES n IS THE 4RATTORIA DEL &RANCESE 6IA 2IGUARDATI CLOSED &RI WHICH IN THE EVENT TURNS OUT TO HAVE A RATHER TATTY TRATTORIA ATMOSPHERE 9OUD DO FAR BETTER TO MAKE FOR THE MEDIEVAL DINING HALLS OF THE 'ROTTA !ZZURRA 6IA !LlERI COMPLETE WITH HUGE lRE SUITS OF ARMOUR AND TAPESTRIES FOR PROBABLY ONE OF THE BEST MEALS YOULL EAT IN 5MBRIA n TREAT YOURSELF TO RISOTTO AL TARTUFO OR TAGLIOLINI AL TARTUFO THE LATTER THE CLASSIC WAY TO TACKLE A TRUFmE OR IF lNANCES ALLOW INDULGE IN THEIR AWARD WINNING MARRIAGE OF TRUFmE AND STEAK &ILETTO DEL #AVATORE h&ILLET OF THE 4RUFmE (UNTERv #ASTELLUCCIO LENTILS MOUNTAIN MUSHROOMS CHEESES AND HAMS ARE ALSO TO BE SAMPLED &OR A CHANGE TRY THE 4AVERNA DE -ASSARI 6IA 2OMA CLOSED 4UES OR ONE OF THE MORE AFFORDABLE PIZZERIE IN THE BACK STREETS A COUPLE ARE SET INTO THE WALLS JUST SOUTH OF THE 0ORTA !SCOLANA
#ASTELLUCCIO !N ISOLATED FARMING VILLAGE AT M #!34%,,5##)/ IS ONE OF )TALYS HIGHEST CONTINUALLY INHABITED SETTLEMENTS AND THE ONLY HABITATION FOR MANY
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4HE MOUNTAINOUS LANDSCAPE EAST OF .ORCIA IS ONE OF THE MOST DISTINCTIVE IN ALL )TALY WITH ITS CENTREPIECE THE EERIE 0IANO 'RANDE AN UPLAND PRAIRIE DEVOID OF ANY FEATURE SAVE SHEEP HANG GLIDERS AND THE ODD BEDRAGGLED HAYSTACK 3UR ROUNDED ON ALL SIDES BY THE SHEER AND BARREN MOUNTAINS OF THE -ONTI 3IBILLINI THE 0IANO 'RANDE FORMS A COLOSSAL AMPHITHEATRE THATS OFTEN SWATHED IN A DENSE EARLY MORNING MIST 'AZING DOWN ON THIS WILDERNESS FROM THE REMOTE HAMLET OF #ASTELLUCCIO ITS EASY TO IMAGINE THE HAZARDS FOR THE UNSUSPECTING TRAVELLER IN PAST CENTURIES 0APAL RULERS FORBADE CROSSING THE PLAIN DURING WINTER AND EVEN TODAY THE BELLS OF #ASTELLUCCIO TOLL ON GLOOMY DAYS TO GUIDE SHEPHERDS ACROSS ITS DESOLATION 4HE PLAIN WAS A KEY SET ON :EFlRELLIS GLUTINOUS &RANCISCAN EPIC "ROTHER 3UN 3ISTER -OON AND IS ALSO FAMOUS FOR BEING n REPUTEDLY n THE WORLDS LARGEST FOOTBALL PITCH HAVING HOSTED A MATCH BETWEEN TWO TEAMS OF A HUNDRED PLAYERS EACH THE HOME SIDE WENT DOWN BY TWELVE GOALS TO ONE ,ATE SPRING TO EARLY SUMMER IS THE BEST PERIOD TO VISIT THE PIANO WHEN IT BLAZES WITH AN EXTRAORDINARY PROFUSION OF WILD mOWERS )N ABOUT MID -AY CROCUSES AND NARCISSI BLOOM GIVING WAY IN EARLY *UNE TO BUTTERCUPS WILD TULIPS AND FRITIL LARIES FOLLOWED BY POPPIES AND CORNmOWERS IN LATE *UNEEARLY *ULY 4HESE ARE ONLY APPROXIMATE TIMINGS THOUGH AND CAN VARY BY UP TO TWO WEEKS 7OVEN INTO THE mORAL CARPET ARE RARE !LPINE mORA INCLUDING THE #AREX BUXBAUMI AN )CE !GE RELIC DISCOVERED IN AND BELIEVED TO BE UNIQUE /N THE MOUNTAINS AROUND CAN BE FOUND FURTHER RARITIES SUCH AS !PENNINE EDELWEISS FOUND ELSEWHERE ONLY IN PARTS OF THE !BRUZZO THE MARTAGON LILY BEARS GRAPE !PENNINE POTENTILLA AND THE !LPINE BUCKTHORN n BUT YOU DONT NEED TO BE AN EXPERT TO ENJOY THE STARTLING SPECTACLE
3 0/, % 4/ ! . $ 4 ( % 6! , .% 2 ) .! 4HE 0IANO 'RANDE s 4HE -ONTI 3IBILLINI
4HE 0IANO 'RANDE AND THE -ONTI 3IBILLINI
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\ 4HE 0IANO 'RANDE s 4HE -ONTI 3IBILLINI
5 #ASTELLUCCIO WITH -ONTE 6ETTORE BEHIND
KILOMETRES AROUND !S WELL AS ITS APPEAL AS A BELVEDERE ONTO THE GRASSLANDS AND A TRAILHEAD FOR MOUNTAIN WALKS THE VILLAGE ATTRACTS RABID ATTENTION FROM HANG GLIDERS DRAWN BY THE 3IBILLINIS TREELESS SLOPES 4HERE ARE LIKELY TO BE SEVERAL CAMPERVANS PARKED IN THE WINDBLOWN SQUARE ! COUPLE OF BARS HAVE SMARTENED THEMSELVES UP AS HAS THE LONG ESTABLISHED HANG GLIDING SCHOOL SIGNS OF CHANGE THAT BENElT THE LOCALS HARDLY AT ALL n MOST OF THE HANG GLIDING JOCKS CAMP AND SPEND LITTLE MONEY LOCALLY 4HE PLACE HAS MADE FEW OTHER CONCESSIONS TO TOURISM AND THE FEEL IS OF AN UNCOMPROMISING AND BLEAK WORKING VILLAGE 4HE ALMOST INCESTUOUSLY INTER RELATED POPULATION HAS DROPPED FROM IN TO AROUND TODAY MOST OF WHOM ARE MIGRANT SHEPHERDS MANY OF THEM 3ARDINIANS OR FORMER 9UGOSLAVS WHO SPEND THE WINTER MONTHS DOWN IN .ORCIA 4HE MOST IMMEDIATELY NOTICE
ABLE THING IN THE VILLAGE IS ITS GRAFlTI DAUBED IN THICK WHITE PAINT ON HUGE WALLS THIS FORMS A KIND OF SOCIAL DOCUMENT FOR THE COMMUNITY THE PIECES n OFTEN MALICIOUS AND SOME GOING BACK GENERATIONS n RECORDING STORIES AND MYTHS ABOUT LOCAL PEOPLE 7ANDER UP TO THE PARISH CHURCH WHICH HAS A MAR VELLOUS FRESCO CYCLE ON THE LEFT WALL DESCRIBING THE LIFE OF 3T !NTHONY !BBOT PATRON SAINT OF SHEPHERDS AND THEIR mOCKS /N THE ARCH OUTSIDE THE CHURCH TO THE RIGHT AS YOU LOOK DOWN TO THE 0IANO 'RANDE IS A &ASCIST PLAQUE OF A TYPE LONG AGO REMOVED FROM OTHER LESS REMOTE TOWNS AND VILLAGES IN )TALY WHICH SALUTES THE $UCE hREFOUNDER OF THE )TALIAN %MPIREv 0RACTICALITIES
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#ASTELLUCCIO IS SERVED BY TWO BUSES A WEEK ON .ORCIAS MARKET DAY ONLY n 4HURSDAY n CURRENTLY DEPARTING .ORCIAS 0ORTA !SCOLANA AT AM AND PM THE RETURN BUS LEAVES #ASTELLUCCIO AT PM )TS WELL WORTH BOOKING ACCOMMODATION IN ADVANCE 4HERES ONLY ONE HOTEL THE TWO STAR 3IBILLA HOTEL CLOSED IN WINTER AN !LPINE LOOK ING BUILDING IN THE VILLAGE CENTRE WITH JUST ELEVEN DOUBLE ROOMS ASK FOR ONE WITH VIEWS OVER THE 0IANO 'RANDE n HALF OF THEM LOOK ONTO THE SCRAPPY CAR PARK PIAZZA 4HE 3IBILLA HAS A RESTAURANT WHICH THOUGH LESS APPEALINGLY RUSTIC SERVES UP REMARKABLY GOOD FOOD #ASTELLUCCIOS SHOPS SUCH AS THEY ARE HAVE ONLY THE MOST BASIC SUPPLIES THOUGH FRUIT AND BREAD VANS VISIT REGULARLY n EXCEPT IN WINTER WHEN THE PLACE IS FREQUENTLY CUT OFF BY SNOW /N THE .ORCIAn!RQUATA ROAD KM SOUTH OF #ASTELLUCCIO ON THE PASS AT THE SOUTHERN EDGE OF THE 0IANO 'RANDE IS THE SMARTLY REFURBISHED &ORCA #ANAPINE WWW HOTELCANAPINECOM A HUGE PINK BUILDING THAT IS AN EXCELLENT BASE FOR WALKS IN ALL DIRECTIONS 2OOMS ARE PLAIN BUT CLEAN WITH WHAT MUST BE SOME OF THE SMALLEST BATHROOMS IN )TALY #AMPING ANYWHERE IN THE HILLS AROUND IS NO PROBLEM THERES PLENTY OF GRASSY mAT GROUND A STONES THROW FROM THE VILLAGE &ARTHER AlELD BE SURE TO TAKE ENOUGH WATER AS THE LIMESTONE HILLS HAVE NO SURFACE SOURCE &OR HANG GLIDING INFORMATION CONTACT THE 3CUOLA DI 6OLO JUST NORTH OF THE VILLAGE 4HE BAR OF THE 3IBILLA AND "AR DEL #APITANO ON THE SOUTHERN EDGE OF THE VILLAGE WITH A GREAT BELVEDERE OVER THE 0IANO 'RANDE CAN PROVIDE WALKING INFORMATION AND MAPS AND BOOKS ON THE AREA
7ALKING IN THE 3IBILLINI 4HE -ONTI 3IBILLINI ARE THE ONLY REALLY WILD MOUNTAINS OF 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA AND THE MOST PRECIOUS NATURAL ENVIRONMENT FOR MANY HUNDREDS OF MILES 4HE NORTHERNMOST OF THE BIG !PENNINE MASSIFS THEY RUN NORTHnSOUTH FOR ABOUT KM THEIR SUMMIT RIDGE MARKING BOTH THE 5MBRIAN BORDER AND THE WATERSHED BETWEEN THE !DRIATIC AND 4YRRHENIAN SEAS )N -ONTE 6ETTORE M THEY HAVE THE THIRD HIGHEST POINT ON THE PENINSULA A MASSIVE BAR REN MOUNTAIN THAT RISES ABOVE THE 0IANO 'RANDE WITH MAJESTIC GRANDEUR 4HE 3IBILLINI HAVE BEEN DESIGNATED A NATIONAL PARK A STATUS THAT SADLY EXISTS MORE ON PAPER THAN ON THE GROUND WITH NO BINDING LAWS TO STOP HUNTING OR BUILDING !CCORDING TO LOCAL TRADITION THE MOUNTAINS WERE HOME TO ONE OF THE THREE ANCIENT SIBYLS n THE WISE WOMEN WITH ORACULAR POWERS WHO WERE SUPPOSED TO HAVE FORETOLD THE COMING OF #HRIST ,ATER MISOGYNIST VERSIONS OF THE SIBYL MYTH TRANSFORMED THEM INTO TEMPTRESSES POSSESSED BY THE $EVIL n THOSE LURED TO THE SIBYLS CAVES WERE DOOMED TO REMAIN TRAPPED THERE UNTIL THE $AY OF *UDGEMENT n WHICH PERHAPS EXPLAINS WHY THESE MOUNTAINS HAVE A REPUTATION
FOR NECROMANCY AND 3ATANISM "Y HAPPY COINCIDENCE THE CODE FOR THE +OMPASS MAP TO THE AREA IS THE $EVILS NUMBER (IKING IN THE 3IBILLINI IS SUPERB WHETHER YOU FANCY CASUAL DAY HIKES OR MORE DEMANDING BACKPACK VENTURES 5NLIKE THE !LPS OR !BRUZZO THERE ARE FEW MARKED PATHS n THESE ARE NOT YET WELL KNOWN MOUNTAINS n AND YOURE UNLIKELY TO MEET MANY PEOPLE OTHER THAN SHEPHERDS 4HE #LUB !LPINO )TALIANO #!) HAS DISCREETLY TAGGED A FEW TRAILS WITH A VIEW ULTIMATELY TO CREATING A CONTINUOUS PATH ON THE SUMMIT RIDGE 4HE +OMPASS 3IBILLINI MAP IS ADEQUATE AND WIDELY AVAILABLE THOUGH LOCALLY YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO PICK UP THE BETTER -ONTEVETTORE PRODUCED BY 5NIVERSO AND THE 5NIONE )TALIANA 3PORT 0OPOLARE OR THE SIMILIAR #!) MAP 0ATHS MARKED ON MAPS DO GENERALLY EXIST BUT IN GOOD WEATHER THE HILLS ARE SO OPEN BAR A FEW GLORIOUS BEECH WOODS THAT YOU CAN WANDER PRETTY MUCH AT WILL AT LEAST ON THE WESTERN 5MBRIAN SIDE OF THE MOUNTAINS 4HIS IS LESS TRUE ON THE EASTERN mANKS IN THE -ARCHE WHICH ARE DOTTED WITH DANGEROUS CRAGS AND SCREES (OWEVER AROUND #ASTELLUCCIO AND THE WESTERN RAMPARTS THE WORST YOULL HAVE TO CONTEND WITH ARE SOME OF THE STEEPEST GRASS SLOPES YOULL EVER COME ACROSS &OR ENTHUSIASTS OR EMERGENCIES THERE ARE SEVERAL MOUNTAIN HUTS MARKED ON MAPS NONE WITH SERVICES AND OFTEN IN A POOR STATE 3 0/, % 4/ ! . $ 4 ( % 6! , .% 2 ) .!
\ 4HE 0IANO 'RANDE s 4HE -ONTI 3IBILLINI
4HE HIKES
#ASTELLUCCIO IS THE BEST BASE FOR DAY HIKES WITH TRAILS LEAVING FROM THE VIL LAGE IN ALL DIRECTIONS -ONTE 6ETTORE VIA &ORCA DI 0RESTA KM EAST OF #ASTEL LUCCIO ON THE ROAD TO THE -ARCHE IS THE OBVIOUS BIG TARGET RETURNING ALONG THE RIDGE VIA 1UARTO 3AN ,ORENZO AND &ORCA 6IOLA 4HIS IS A PRETTY TOUGH FULL DAYS OUTING WHICH YOU COULD TAKE AT A MORE LEISURELY PACE BY STARTING AT THE SUMMER ONLY REFUGE AT &ORCA DI 0RESTA OR ALWAYS CALL IN ADVANCE 3ITED AT M THE RIFUGIO IS A SOURCE OF BASIC FOOD MAPS AND INFORMATION !NOTHER GOOD WALK FROM &ORCA DI 0RESTA OR #ASTELLUCCIO MAINLY DOWN HILL THROUGH WOODS TAKES YOU TO !215!4! $%, 42/.4/ IN THE -ARCHE A SMALLISH PLACE WITH TWO HOTELS THE BETTER OF WHICH IS #A -ARTINA ON A SIDE ROAD JUST NORTH OF THE VILLAGE WELL PLACED FOR THE PATHS ON AND OFF THE HILLS ! THIRD REWARDING HIKE IS TO STRIKE ACROSS COUNTRY FROM #ASTELLUCCIO TO .ORCIA A ROUTE COMFORTABLY ACCOMPLISHED IN A DAY THOUGH THE ROUTE lNDING HERE REQUIRES A LITTLE MORE DILIGENCE PATHS TO THE RIDGE AROUND M ARE STRAIGHTFORWARD BUT THE DROP FROM THE RIDGE CAN BE A BIT OF SCRAMBLE IF YOU MISS THE PATH 4RAILS LOWER DOWN WHICH YOULL EASILY PICK UP ARE MUCH BETTER &OR A QUICK AND EASY GLIMPSE OF THE SCENERY NORTH OF #ASTELLUCCIO FOL LOW THE STRADA BIANCA GRAVEL ROAD FOR ABOUT TWENTY MINUTES PAST THE 3CUOLA DI 6OLO ROUND THE CORNER INTO THE 6ALLE #ANATRA AND ON TO THE &ONTE 6ALLE #ANATRA )TS AN ALL BUT LEVEL STROLL WHICH YOU COULD PROLONG BY FOLLOWING THE OBVIOUS CART TRACK TO THE HEAD OF THE LOVELY PASTORAL VALLEY AND THE OPEN PLAINS UNDER -ONTE DELLE 2OSE M 4HIS IS GOOD CAMPING TERRITORY !NOTHER EXCELLENT STRAIGHTFORWARD AND NOT OVERLY DEMANDING WALK IS TO LEAVE #ASTELLUCCIO ON THE UPPER STRADA BIANCA WEST AND THEN FOLLOW THE ROUGH ROAD AND CLEAR PATH ALONG THE RIDGES OF THE 0IANO 'RANDES WESTERN RIM #OLLE 4OSTO -ONTE 6ETICA AND OTHERS OVERNIGHTING AT &ORCA #ANAPINE SEE h0RAC TICALITIESv ABOVE ! MORE AMBITIOUS AND LONGER HIKING ROUTE IS TO CROSS OVER THE RIDGE EAST OF #ASTELLUCCIO INTO THE -ARCHE WHERE THE BEST KNOWN WALK RUNS TO THE
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,AGO DI 0ILATO AN IDYLLIC SPOT UNDER -ONTE 6ETTORE 4HIS IS SUPPOSEDLY THE BURIAL PLACE OF 0ONTIUS 0ILATE THE STORY BEING THAT 0ILATES BODY WAS DIS PATCHED FROM 2OME ON A CART PULLED BY TWO OXEN WHICH TRAIPSED THROUGH WILD COUNTRY AND THEN PLUNGED INTO THE LAKE DISAPPEARING WITHOUT TRACE 4HE LEGEND HAS MADE THE LAKE THE HEART OF THE MOUNTAINS SUPPOSED NECRO MANTIC PRACTICES .ORCIANS USED TO SACRIlCE ANIMALS HERE AND HUMANS TOO SO IT IS SAID TO PLACATE THE DEMONS AND PROTECT THEMSELVES FROM STORMS AND BAD WEATHER 7HEN THE AREA WAS PART OF THE 0APAL 3TATES A WALL WAS BUILT BY THE #HURCH TO PREVENT ACCESS TO THE LAKE AND STONES INSCRIBED WITH OCCULT SYMBOLS HAVE BEEN FOUND ON THE SHORES )N MANY RECENT SUMMERS THE LAKE HAS ALL BUT DRIED UP PUTTING IN DANGER AN ENDEMIC CRUSTACEAN #HIROCEPHALUS MARCHESONII WHICH USED TO STAIN THE WATER RED A COLOURING ANCIENTLY ATTRIB UTED TO THE BLOOD OF 0ILATE &ROM ,AGO DI 0ILATO ANOTHER SUPERB TRAIL RUNS UNDER THE MAIN RIDGE ALONG THE 6ALLE DEL !SO TO THE HAMLET OF &/#% THE COMBINED TREK FROM #ASTELLUCCIO TO THE LAKE AND THEN TO &OCE MAKES A PERFECT DAYS WALK 4HE ONLY PROBLEM IS YOULL HAVE TO HAUL YOURSELF BACK OVER THE MOUNTAINS IF YOURE RETURNING TO #ASTELLUC CIO THE NEXT DAY SO THIS IS A ROUTE FOR SEASONED HIKERS %AST OF &OCE -/.4%
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5 'OLA DEL )NFERNACCIO
-/.!#/ IN THE -ARCHE MAKES ANOTHER GOOD 3IBILLINI WALKING BASE ! NICE MEDIEVAL VILLAGE IN ITSELF IT PROVIDES A STARTING POINT FOR WALKS UP -ONTE 3IBILLA M AND THE SPECTACULAR YET EASY HIKE IN THE 'OLA DEL )NFERNACCIO (ELLS #ANYON 4HIS IS A HUGE GORGE COMPLETE WITH CLIFFS AND CRASHING RIVER WHICH OPENS OUT INTO A BROADER UPLAND WHERE AN UPPER TRACK TAKES YOU TO THE %REMO DI 3AN ,EONARDO
#ASCIA AND AROUND
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\ #ASCIA AND AROUND
#!3#)! KM SOUTH OF .ORCIA lGURES LARGE ON THE MAP BUT IS DISAPPOINT ING IN ACTUALITY ONLY RECOMMENDABLE TO PILGRIMS IN SEARCH OF 3T 2ITA (ER PRESENCE n AND THE STUPENDOUSLY UGLY TWENTIETH CENTURY "ASILICA n DOMINATES BOTH THE NEW AND THE EARTHQUAKE DAMAGED HILL TOWN WHICH WAS ABANDONED FOR A TIME IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY ,ITTLE KNOWN ELSEWHERE 2ITA HAS A MASSIVE CULT FOLLOWING IN )TALY ESPECIALLY AMONGST WOMEN FOR WHOM SHE IS A SEMI OFlCIAL PATRON SAINT 4HOUSANDS COME ANNUALLY TO VENERATE HER SHRINE 2ITAS "ASILICA IN THE OLD TOWN IS A MONUMENT TO RELIGIOUS VULGARITY PROBABLY WITHOUT EQUAL n A PIECE OF &ASCIST ARCHITECTURAL BRUTALISM THAT ATTEMPTS TO PLACE "YZANTINE AND 2OMANESQUE ELEMENTS IN A MODERN CONTEXT AND IN DOING SO PRODUCES A FANTASY IN WHITE MARBLE THAT MIGHT SIT MORE HAPPILY IN $ISNEYLAND 2ITAS EXHUMED AND MUMMIlED BODY LIES BEHIND GRILLES ON THE LEFT NORTHERN SIDE OF THE BASILICA SURROUNDED IN THE HALF GLOOM BY mICKERING CANDLES AND VOTIVE OFFERINGS WHOSE APPEALS FOR THE SAINTS SALVAGING OF IMPOSSIBLE SITUATIONS INCLUDE THE PENNANTS OF SEVERAL )TALIAN FOOTBALL TEAMS 4HE INTERIOR IS SMOTHERED IN EXTRAVAGANT STONEWORK n ALL BEARING THE ROBUST STRONG LINED BLUDGEONING OF
3T 2ITA 3T 2ITA EXPERIENCED n AND SURVIVED n THE KIND OF HARDSHIPS BORNE BY WOMEN THROUGH OUT HISTORY WHICH IS THE MAIN REASON FOR HER APPEAL AND ALSO WHY SHES SOMETIMES KNOWN AS THE hSAINT OF THE IMPOSSIBLEv "ORN IN A POOR CHILD OF AGED PARENTS SHE WAS FORCED TO MARRY AT AND ENDURED EIGHTEEN YEARS OF MISTREATMENT FROM AN ALCOHOLIC HUSBAND (AVING WEANED HIMSELF FROM THE BOTTLE AND REPENTED HIS PAST THE HUSBAND DIED IN A BRAWL A FEW WEEKS LATER 2ITAS CHILDREN FOR THE MOST PART WRETCHED WASTERS BOTH DIED ATTEMPTING TO AVENGE THEIR FATHER "EATEN WIDOWED AND CHILDLESS 2ITA SENSIBLY THOUGHT IT ABOUT TIME SHE BECAME A NUN (ER KNOWLEDGE OF THE MARITAL BED HOWEVER MADE THIS IMPOSSIBLE ONLY A RELAX ATION OF CONVENT RULES ALLOWED HER TO BECOME AN !UGUSTINIAN A DEVELOPMENT HELD UP AS ONE OF HER hIMPOSSIBLEv MIRACLES .O SOONER HAD SHE JOINED THAN SHE DEVELOPED A SORE IN THE MIDDLE OF HER FOREHEAD AN EXCRESCENCE SO FOUL SMELLING THAT NONE OF THE NUNS WOULD COME NEAR HER 4HIS SUPPOSEDLY DEVELOPED WHEN A THORN FELL FROM A CROWN OF THORNS AS SHE WAS PRAYING TO A STATUE OF #HRIST AND SO WAS REGARDED BY HER COMPANIONS AS A KIND OF STIGMATA 4HE SMELL ABATED ONLY ONCE n TO ALLOW HER TO JOIN HER COMPANIONS ON A WEEKS VISIT TO 2OME TO MEET THE POPE ON THEIR RETURN THE ODOUR RETURNED AS VIRULENT AS EVER 2ITA DIED IN BUT THE PROCESS OF HER BEATIlCATION WAS LABORIOUS HAMPERED BY DOUBTS AS TO THE VERACITY OF HER MIRACLES BY THE FACT THAT SHE WAS A WOMAN AND ONE WITH A PAST AND DOUBTLESS BY THE SIZE OF HER GRASSROOTS SUPPORT A GROUNDSWELL THE PAPACY FEARED BEYOND THEIR CONTROL 4HE PROCLAMATION OF HER BEATIlCATION lNALLY CAME IN AND HER ELEVATION TO SAINTHOOD AS LATE AS AND THEN ONLY IN THE WAKE OF A HUGE PUBLIC CAMPAIGN
#ASCIAS TOURIST OFlCE IN THE CENTRAL SQUARE 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM SUMMER ALSO 3UN AMnPM INFO IATCASCIAPGIT IS THE MAIN OFlCE FOR EASTERN 5MBRIA INCLUDING THE 6ALNERINA .ORCIA AND THE 0IANO 'RANDE AND SO CAN BE WORTH A VISIT FOR MAPS AND PAMPHLETS /F THE HUGE PILGRIM ORIENTED HOTELS THE BEST FOR GENERAL PURPOSES IS THE BASIC ONE STAR #ENTRALE 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI A LITTLE MORE UP MARKET IS THE THREE STAR #URSULA 6IALE #AVOUR HOTELCURSULA COM WHICH HAS #ASCIAS BEST RESTAURANT
\
0RACTICALITIES
3 0/, % 4/ ! . $ 4 ( % 6! , .% 2 ) .! #ASCIA AND AROUND
&ASCIST MASONRY n AND THE VAULTED CEILING AND CUPOLA GLOW WITH GARISH PAINTING BY NUMBERS FRESCOES 4HE ALTAR IS SURROUNDED BY WHAT APPEARS TO BE GOLD BARBED WIRE AND IS SURMOUNTED BY A LARGE GOLDEN EGG 6ISITORS ARE TAKEN IN GROUPS TO 2ITAS ORIGINAL !UGUSTINIAN MONASTERY NOW ANNEXED TO THE BUILDING FOR A VIEW OF THE CELL IN WHICH SHE DIED A VINE THAT GREW FROM HER WALKING STICK AND A ROSE n WHICH 2ITA COAXED INTO LIFE OUT OF SEASON n TRANSPLANTED FROM HER GARDEN IN 2OCCAPORENA SEE BELOW #ASCIAS OTHER SIGHTS ARE FEW AND MANY ARE STILL UNDER RESTORATION FOLLOWING A CATASTROPHIC EARTHQUAKE IN 3AN &RANCESCO ON THE MAIN 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI BEGUN IN BUT REBUILT ALMOST COMPLETELY IN HOUSES A FOURTEENTH CENTURY 'OTHIC CHOIR A FRESCO OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD BY A lFTEENTH CENTURY 5MBRIAN ARTIST n ON THE WEST ENTRANCE WALL n AND MORE EARLY LOCAL FRESCOES AROUND THE PULPIT 7ALK ALONG THE LEVEL MAIN STREET FROM HERE AND YOU COME TO 3ANTA -ARIA THE TOWNS OLDEST CHURCH FOUNDED IN A LARGE AIRY SPACE STILL WITH A MEDIEVAL ATMOSPHERE OF SORTS AND THE PLACE WHERE 2ITA WAS BAPTIZED THE FONT IS AT THE TOP OF THE LEFT NAVE IN A SPECIAL CHAPEL LEFT OF THE CHOIR /N THE WEST WALL ARE FRESCOES OF THE $EPOSITION BY .ICOLA DA 3IENA AND 3T -ICHAEL 7EIGHING THE 3OULS OF 3INNERS AND THE 3AVED !T THE BEGINNING OF THE RIGHT NAVE IS A .ATIVITY IN WHICH THE -ADONNA SEEMS TO BE SLEEPING ON A LARGE AIR BED #ONTINUE PAST 3ANTA -ARIA AND THROUGH THE GATEWAY TO THE RIGHT THE ROAD DOWNHILL SOON BRINGS YOU TO THE EXCELLENT #HIESA -USEO DI 3ANT!NTONIO !BATE JUST OUTSIDE THE WALLS IN 6IA 0ORTA ,EONINA !UG $EC n*AN DAILY AMnPM nPM MID -ARCH TO !PRIL MID 3EPT TO /CT 3AT 3UN nPM n -AYn*ULY &RIn3UN AMnPM nPM .OVn-ARCH 3AT 3UN AMnPM nPM PLUS OTHER DAYS DURING SPECIAL EXHIBITIONS JOINT TICKET WITH 0ALAZZO 3ANTI + 4HIS CONTAINS TWO EXCELLENTLY PRESERVED FRESCO CYCLES THE lFTEENTH CENTURY SIXTEEN PANEL CYCLE ON THE ,IFE OF 3T !NTHONY BY THE -AESTRO DELLA $ORMITO DI 4ERNI AND 3TORIES OF THE 0ASSION AND THE ,IFE OF #HRIST BY .ICOLA DA 3IENA 4HE PRESBYTERY HOLDS A PRECIOUS SIXTEENTH CENTURY GROUP OF WOODEN STATUES DEPICTING 4OBIAS AND THE !NGEL 4HE -USEO #OMUNALE DI 0ALAZZO 3ANTI SAME HOURS AND TICKET IN THE TOWN CENTRE ON 6IA 'AETANO 0ALOMBI IS DIVIDED INTO A PREDICTABLE ARCHEOLOGICAL SECTION WITH lNDS FROM THE SURROUNDING AREA AND AN ART GALLERY WITH PAINTINGS REMOVED FROM LOCAL CHURCHES AND AN OUTSTANDING COLLECTION OF RARE MEDIEVAL WOODEN STATUES 4HE TICKET OFlCE IS ALSO STRIKING PART OF AN EIGHTEENTH CENTURY PHARMACY
2OCCAPORENA AND THE #ORNO VALLEY #ASCIAS COUNTRYSIDE IS CONSIDERABLY MORE REWARDING THAN THE TOWN )F YOU WANT A QUICK TASTE n AND TO STAY ON THE 3T 2ITA TRAIL n THE TRIP TO 2OCCAPORENA THE SAINTS BIRTHPLACE ADMIRABLY lTS THE BILL 4HE BEST WAY TO GET HERE IS TO TAKE THE MARKED AND WELL WORN 3ENTIERO 0ASSEGGIATA DI 3ANTA 2ITA A PERFECTLY LEVEL
3 0/, % 4/ ! . $ 4 ( % 6! , .% 2 ) .!
PATH THAT CONTOURS ABOVE THE #ORNO GORGE FOR KM BETWEEN #ASCIA AND THE VILLAGE 4HE TRACK CAN BE PICKED UP IN THE CENTRE OF TOWN THROUGH THE FORECOURT OF THE $ELLE 2OSE HOTEL DROP DOWN INTO THE UNDERGROUND CAR PARK WALK THROUGH IT AND TAKE THE GATE M BEYOND SLIGHTLY TO THE LEFT WHEN YOU EMERGE !FTER KM n YOU SIMPLY FOLLOW THE SAME TRACK ALL THE WAY WITH NO DIVERSIONS LEFT OR RIGHT n CUT DOWN TO CROSS THE RIVER ON A TRACK THAT BRANCHES OFF RIGHT JUST AFTER A RUINED HOUSE AND THE POINT WHERE A LARGE PIPE CROSSES THE RIVER YOULL KNOW IF YOUVE GONE TOO FAR AS THE TRACK WHICH HAS BEEN FOLLOWING AN UNDERGROUND AQUEDUCT BECOMES TOO NARROW TO WALK ON 4HE LAST KILOMETRE IS ON THE ROAD 4HE SURREAL LITTLE VILLAGE OF 2/##!0/2%.! SITS AT THE BEND OF A DEEP SIDED HEAVILY WOODED VALLEY DOMINATED BY A SOARING VEGETATION SHROUDED CRAG THE 3COGLIO DI 3ANTA 2ITA 0ERCHED ON THE NEEDLE POINT SUMMIT IS A TINY CHAPEL TIRING TO REACH BUT WITH MAGNIlCENT VIEWS )N THE VILLAGE A SMALL BUT OFTEN PILGRIM THRONGED PLACE DEVOTED ALMOST ENTIRELY TO 2ITA THE PARISH CHURCH OF 3AN -ONTANO HAS THE GRAVES OF 2ITAS FAMILY AND IS THE SPOT WHERE SHE CONCLUDED HER UNFORTUNATE MARRIAGE -ORE PEOPLE MAKE THE PILGRIMAGE TO THE /RTO DI 3ANTA 2ITA SITE OF THE SAINTS NOW RATHER TATTY GARDEN AN UNLIKELY SPOT FOR HORTICULTURE GIVEN ITS BARREN CLIFF EDGE LOCATION )TS WELL SIGNED ON THE VALLEY SIDE OPPOSITE THE 3COGLIO THE SPOT MARKED BY A MODERN BRONZE STATUE OF THE SAINT ON AND AROUND WHICH ARE OFTEN DOZENS OF INVOCATIONS SCRAWLED ON SCRAPS OF PAPER 4HE OBVIOUS PLACE TO STAY IS THE THREE STAR (OTEL 2OCCAPORENA #ASA DEL 0ELLEGRINO WWWROCCAPORENACOM AN INSTITUTIONAL BUT SPOTLESS AND COMFORTABLE PILGRIMS HOTEL )T ALSO HAS A CHEAP CANTEEN LIKE RESTAURANT MORE OR LESS THE ONLY PLACE IN THE VILLAGE TO EAT 4HE #ORNO VALLEY AND -ONTELEONE
\ 4RAVEL DETAILS
4HERE ARE PLENTY OF OPPORTUNITIES FOR WALKS INTO THE HILLS FROM 2OCCAPORENA AND PARTICULARLY ALONG THE WOODED ARM OF THE #ORNO VALLEY THAT MAKES A DOGS LEG TURN TO THE SOUTH 4O PICK UP PATHS SIMPLY FOLLOW THE GRAVEL ROAD BEYOND THE #ASA DEL 0ELLEGRINO WHICH CLIMBS QUICKLY BECOMING A CART TRACK AFTER A COUPLE OF KILOMETRES %AST KM INTO THE VALLEY ITS WORTH MAKING A BRIEF DETOUR TO THE HAMLET OF #APANNE FOR ITS VIEWS AND SMALL lFTEENTH CENTURY CHURCH !N HOURS WALK NORTHWEST FROM THERE OVER UPLAND LEADS TO THE LONELY -ADONNA DELLE 3TELLE A RESTORED MONASTERY WHICH YOU CAN ALSO REACH MORE EASILY FROM THE "ORGO #ERRETOn-ONTELEONE ROAD -/.4%,%/.% ITSELF ON THE ONLY ROAD SOUTH INTO ,AZIO IS A lNE IF IN PARTS EARTHQUAKE BATTERED MEDIEVAL VILLAGE SURROUNDED BY GRAND HILL COUNTRY AND NOTED FOR WOODCARVING AND DELICACIES SUCH AS OLIVES WINE AND TRUFmES 4HE MAIN SIGHT IS THE CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCESCO GRACED WITH AN EXCEPTIONAL 'OTHIC DOOR AND SCATTERED WITH ARTISTIC AND ARCHEOLOGICAL FRAGMENTS EXCAVATED FROM A MAS SIVE .EOLITHIC NECROPOLIS NEARBY 4HE VILLAGE IS BEST KNOWN HOWEVER FOR FARRO A CRUDE GRAIN THAT lNDS ITS WAY INTO SOUPS n ZUPPA DI FARRO n ACROSS THE 6ALNERINA &ARRO IS REPUTEDLY WHAT WHEAT WOULD BE LIKE HAD IT NOT BEEN IMPROVED OVER THE CENTURIES THE 2OMANS AND %TRUSCANS USED IT AS A STAPLE GRAIN AND ALLEGEDLY FED IT TO THEIR SOLDIERS BEFORE THEY WENT INTO BATTLE
4RAVEL DETAILS
4HE EXCELLENT WEBSITE WWWUMBRIATRASPORTIIT HAS LINKS TO FULL AND UPDATED TIMETABLES FOR ALL PUBLIC TRANSPORT INCLUDING THE PRIVATE AND STATE RAIL SERVICES AND THE !4# !0- AND 33)4 BUS SERVICES
4RAINS 3POLETO TO !REZZO DAILY HR MIN &LORENCE DIRECT DAILY HR MINnHR &OLIGNO VIA 4REVI n DAILY MIN CONNECTIONS FOR 3PELLO !SSISI 0ERUGIA AND 4ERØNTOLA &OSSATO DI 6ICO FOR 'UBBIO n DAILY HR MIN .ARNI n DAILY MIN .OCERA 5MBRA DAILY MIN /RTE n DAILY MIN ADDITIONAL CONNECTIONS TO 2OME AND &LOR ENCE 0ERUGIA DIRECT n DAILY MIN 2OME n DAILY HR MINnHR MIN 4ERNI n DAILY MIN
"USES .OTE THAT ALL BUSES BETWEEN 3POLETO AND .ORCIA AND #ASCIA RUN VIA 3ANT!NATOLIA DI .ARCO #ASCIA SERVICES TO AND FROM .ORCIA 3POLETO OR 2OME REQUIRE A CONNECTION AT 3ERRAVALLE #ASCIA TO &OLIGNO -ONn3AT DIRECT DAILY HR .ORCIA -ONn3AT n DAILY ON 3UN MIN 2OCCAPORENA n DAILY MIN 2OME 3TAZIONE
4IBERTINA -ONn3AT DAILY ON 3UN HR 3POLETO -ONn3AT n DAILY ON 3UN HR MIN .ORCIA TO "ORGO #ERRETO VIA #AMPI 0RECI AND 4RIPONZO -ONn3AT DAILY CURRENTLY LEAVES PM HR #ASCIA -ONn3AT n DAILY ON 3UN MIN #ASTELLUCCIO VIA &ORCA #ANAPINE ON 4HURS MIN 0ERUGIA -ONn3AT DIRECT DAILY CURRENTLY LEAVES AM HR MIN 2OME 3TAZIONE 4IBERTINA -ONn3AT DAILY ON 3UN HR 3POLETO -ONn3AT n DAILY ON 3UN MIN 3POLETO TRAIN STATION OR 0IAZZA 6ITTORIA TO #ASCIA -ONn3AT n DAILY ON 3UN HR MIN &OLIGNO -ONn3AT DAILY MIN -ONTELEONE -ONn3AT DAILY RUNS VIA #ASO AND 'AVELLI CURRENTLY DEPARTS PM -ONTEFALCO -ONn3AT n DAILY HR .ORCIA -ONn3AT n DAILY ON 3UN MIN 0ERUGIA -ONn3AT DIRECT DAILY VIA 3PELLO AND 3ANTA -ARIA DEGLI !NGELI HR MIN ADDITIONAL CONNECTIONS AT &OLIGNO 3CHEGGINO -ONn3AT DAILY WITH CHANGE AT 3ANT!NATOLIA DI .ARCO MIN 4ERNI -ONn3AT DAILY MIN
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Ê .ARNI #OMPACT HILL TOWN WITH OUTSTANDING CATHEDRAL MEDIEVAL STREETS AND 2OMANESQUE CHURCHES 3EE P
Ê !MELIA 4HIS TINY HILL TOWN IS PART ENCLOSED BY SOME OF )TALYS OLDEST AND MIGHTIEST WALLS 3EE P
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Ê $UOMO /RVIETO 5MBRIAS MOST SPEC TACULAR CATHEDRAL WITH THE lNEST FACADE IN )TALY AND AN OUTSTANDING AND INmUENTIAL FRESCO CYCLE BY 3IGNORELLI 3EE P
Ê 5NDERGROUND /RVIETO 'UIDED TOURS INTO THE LABYRINTH BELOW THE TOWN 3EE P
Ê 0OZZO DI 3AN 0ATRIZIO /RVIETO 4HIS COLOSSAL WELL IS A DAZZLING EXAM PLE OF MEDIEVAL ENGINEER ING 3EE P
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OUTHERN 5MBRIA FEATURES TWO OF THE PROVINCES MOST ILLUSTRIOUS HILL TOWNS n /RVIETO AND 4ODI %ACH HAS BECOME A LITTLE TOO POPULAR FOR ITS OWN GOOD BUT THEY ARE ESSENTIAL VISITS THE FORMER FOR )TALYS RICHEST 'OTHIC CATHEDRAL THE LATTER FOR THE ATMOSPHERE MUSEUM MAIN SQUARE AND STUNNING HIGH ALTITUDE LOCATION /FTEN BYPASSED IN THE RUSH TO THESE STAR ATTRACTIONS ARE A NUMBER OF SMALLER BUT STILL ENJOYABLE CENTRES NOTABLY .ARNI n OCCUPYING A PROMONTORY ABOVE THE 2IVER .ERA n AND !MELIA WHOSE ENCIR CLING WALLS ARE AMONG THE MOST REDOUBTABLE IN THE COUNTRY 4ERNI A TRANSPORT HUB AND THE PROVINCES LARGEST SUPPLY CENTRE AFTER 0ERUGIA IS THE AREAS LOW SPOT A GRIM INDUSTRIAL CITY WHOSE MOST VALUABLE ROLE IS AS THE SOUTHERN GATEWAY TO THE 6ALNERINA "USES UP THE VALLEY PASS CLOSE TO THE MOST CELEBRATED LANDSCAPE ATTRACTION IN THIS PART OF 5MBRIA THE #ASCATE DELLE -ARMORE n A PARTLY ARTIlCIAL WATERFALL THAT NONETHELESS PROVIDES AN IMPRESSIVE SPECTACLE -AINLINE TRAINS FROM 4ERNI HEAD NORTH TO 3POLETO AND SOUTH TO .ARNI CON NECTING WITH THE 2OMEn&LORENCE ROUTE AND /RVIETO TRAINS AT /RTE 4HE MOST ENJOYABLE RIDE IS PROVIDED BY THE &ERROVIA #ENTRALE 5MBRA A PRIVATE SINGLE TRACK LINE THAT RUNS FROM 4ERNI TO 0ERUGIA AND THEN ON TO #ITTÌ DI #AS TELLO AND 3ANSEPOLCRO 5SING SPARTAN TWO CARRIAGE TRAINS THIS lLLS THE GAPS LEFT BY THE STATE NETWORK RATTLING THROUGH LOVELY COUNTRYSIDE TO PROVIDE ACCESS TO 4ODI AND TO MINOR HALTS LIKE $ERUTA HEART OF THE REGIONS CERAMIC TRADITION 'OOD ROAD LINKS FOLLOW ALMOST IDENTICAL ROUTES IF YOURE DRIVING OR HITCHING THE BIG JUNCTION WITH THE ! AT /RTE n AN OBVIOUS GATEWAY IN AND OUT OF THE REGION n OFFERS OPTIONS IN ALL DIRECTIONS
4ERNI 4%2.) THE SOUTHERNMOST MAJOR TOWN IN 5MBRIA WAS THE UNLIKELY BIRTH PLACE OF 3T 6ALENTINE PATRON SAINT OF LOVERS AND BISHOP OF THE TOWN UNTIL HIS MARTYRDOM IN n BUT A LESS ROMANTIC CITY WOULD BE HARD TO IMAGINE 0REWAR 4ERNI FORMED THE CRADLE OF )TALYS INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION CLAIMING THE COUNTRYS lRST STEEL MILL AND PRODUCING THE WORLDS lRST VIABLE PLASTIC ITS
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4O GIVE THE TOWN CREDIT IT DOES ITS BEST THE PIAZZAS ARE CLEAN AND OFTEN lLLED WITH SCULPTURE CULTURAL LIFE IS RICH AND VARIED WITH AN OFFSHOOT OF THE 5MBRIA *AZZ FESTIVAL HELD HERE AROUND %ASTER WITH A PREPONDERANCE OF SPIRITUALS AND GOSPEL MUSIC AND THE ARRIVAL OF lLM MAKERS AND PRODUCTION COMPANIES INCREASINGLY PUT OFF BY HIGH COSTS IN 2OME HAS SEEN THE GROWTH OF 4ERNI AS A MOVIE PRODUCTION CENTRE THE #ENTRO -ULTIMEDIALE DI 4ERNI WAS INVOLVED
3T 6ALENTINE 4ERNIS TOURIST LITERATURE TREADS CAREFULLY AROUND THE SUBJECT OF 3T 6ALENTINE TALKING OF HIS hDELICATE TRADITION n DELICATE THAT IS BECAUSE THERE ARE DOUBTS ABOUT WHETHER HE EVER EXISTED AND EXACTLY WHOSE BODY IT IS THAT PILGRIMS VENERATE IN THE "ASILICA DI 3AN 6ALENTINO KM SOUTH OF 4ERNI 4HE UNCERTAIN IDENTITY OF THE CORPSE HOWEVER DIDNT STOP SOMEONE STEALING THE SAINTS HEAD AS A LOVE TOKEN IN IT WAS FOUND THREE YEARS LATER WRAPPED IN NEWSPAPER UNDER A PARK BENCH AT THE #ASCATE DELLE -ARMORE !CCORDING TO THE DELICATE TRADITION 6ALENTINE WAS ELECTED lRST BISHOP OF 4ERNI IN !$ AND ATTEMPTED TO BRING CONVERTS TO #HRISTIANITY n THEN STILL OUTLAWED n BY ENCOURAGING THE RELIGIOUS MARRIAGE OF YOUNG PEOPLE )TS ALSO SAID THAT STAR CROSSED LOVERS WOULD TURN TO HIM FOR ADVICE DRAWN BY HIS OPEN MINDEDNESS AND HIS CUSTOM OF GIVING THEM mOWERS FROM HIS GARDEN (IS MOST FAMOUS SUCCESS WAS THE UNION OF 3ABINUS AND 3ERAPIA TWO LOVERS n HE PAGAN SHE #HRISTIAN n BARRED FROM MARRIAGE BY THEIR LACK OF A SHARED FAITH 6ALENTINE COMFORTED THEM WITH THE ASSURANCE THAT THEIR SOULS WOULD NEVER BE SEPARATED WHEN THE YOUNG 3ERAPIA DIED HE CONVERTED 3ABINUS AND THUS ACHIEVED THE REUNION OF THE LOVERS WHEN 3ABINUS DIED SOON AFTER !NOTHER THEORY SUGGESTS THE SAINTS FEAST DAY WAS THE SAME DAY ON WHICH BIRDS IN 5MBRIA WERE TRADITIONALLY THOUGHT TO MATE %VIDENCE OF 6ALENTINES OTHER QUALIlCATIONS FOR SAINTHOOD IS SCARCE THOUGH AFTER HIS MARTYRDOM IN 2OME HIS HEAD IS SAID TO HAVE ROLLED KM FROM ITS PLACE OF EXECUTION /DDLY ENOUGH HIS FOLLOWING IN )TALY IS CONSIDERABLY LESS THAN IN THE hUNROMANTICv !NGLO 3AXON COUNTRIES
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\ 4ERNI
AMONG OTHERS WITH 2OBERTO "ENIGNIS ,IFE IS "EAUTIFUL MUCH OF WHICH WAS SHOT IN A LOCAL SUBURB 4HE BEST TIMES TO BE IN 4ERNI ARE -AY $AY n CELEBRATED WITH UNUSUAL VIGOUR AND A PARADE OF mOATS BY THIS COMMITTED LEFT WING TOWN n AND 3T 6ALENTINES $AY &EB MARKED BY A FESTIVAL MARKET AND EVENING ,ATINO DISCO 4HE )NTERNATIONAL 0IANO &ESTIVAL IS A HIGH CLASS EVENT HELD IN *UNE
4HE 4OWN 4HERES LITTLE TO SEE IN 4ERNI AND WHAT THERE IS IS USUALLY LOST AMONGST MOD ERN BUILDINGS 0ERHAPS THE BEST REASON FOR LEAVING THE TRAIN STATION IS THE NEW 0INACOTECA #OMUNALE h/ -ETELLIv E h-USEO ! $E &ELICEv IN THE .EOCLASSICAL 0ALAZZO 'AZZOLI 6IA DEL 4EATRO 2OMANO 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM + )TS STAR TURNS ARE 4HE -ARRIAGE OF 3T #ATHERINE BY "ENOZZO 'OZZOLI THE 0ALA DEI &RANCESCANI BY 0IERMATTEO D!MELIA AND A #RUCIlXION BY THE &OLIGNESE ARTIST .ICOLÛ !LUNNO ALONG WITH WORKS BY SEVERAL KEY MODERNS n #HAGALL "RAQUE 0ICASSO %RNST +ANDINSKY AND -IRØ #ONTEMPORARY WORKS ARE ARRANGED IN A SEPARATE SECTION OF THE GALLERY 4HERES ALSO A GENEROUS HELPING OF CANVASES BY /RNEORE -ETELLI n AN IMPOVERISHED SHOEMAKER FROM 4ERNI WHO CHRONICLED HIS DAILY LIFE IN COLOURFUL AND APPEALING NAIVE PAINTINGS 4HE SAME TICKET GIVES YOU ADMISSION TO THE -OSTRA 0ERMANENTE DI 0ALEONTO LOGIA ,ARGO ,IBEROTTI 4UES &RI 3AT AMnPM nPM A VERY MODEST COLLECTION OF FOSSILS 4HE GREENEST PARTS OF A GREY CITY ARE THE GARDENS OF ITS SOUTHWEST QUADRANT AROUND 3AN 3ALVATORE AND THE 2OMAN AMPHITHEATRE 3AN 3ALVATORE OFF THE SHAPELESS SPRAWL OF 0IAZZA %UROPA IS THE TOWNS MOST INTERESTING CHURCH FEATUR ING A ROTUNDA THAT WAS LONG BELIEVED TO HAVE BEEN A 2OMAN TEMPLE TO THE SUN BUT HAS RECENTLY BEEN DATED TO THE ELEVENTH CENTURY .ONETHELESS EXCAVATIONS HAVE REVEALED EXTENSIVE REMAINS FROM 2OMAN BUILDINGS ON THE SITE 4HE POR
TICO DATES FROM THE TWELFTH CENTURY AND THE CHAPEL n WHICH HAS FRESCOES BY AN UNKNOWN 5MBRIAN PAINTER n FROM TWO CENTURIES LATER 4WO BLOCKS WEST ARE THE REMAINS OF THE 2OMAN AMPHITHEATRE BUILT IN !$ TO HOLD TEN THOUSAND SPECTATORS COMPREHENSIVELY RUINED ITS HOME TO THE TOWNS BOWLS CLUB *UST NORTH OF 3AN 3ALVATORE IS THE CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCESCO STARTED ON A 2OMAN ESQUE PLAN IN AND DElNED BY ITS CAMPANILE A FOURTEENTH CENTURY ADDITION FEATURING VIVID CERAMICS )N THE CENTRE OFF 6IA #AVOUR ARE 3ANT!LÛ A TWELFTH CENTURY CHURCH BUILT BY THE +NIGHTS OF -ALTA AND THE 0ALAZZO 3PADA THE LAST WORK OF !NTONIO DA 3ANGALLO THE 9OUNGER WHO DIED IN 4ERNI IN
0RACTICALITIES
!CCOMMODATION (OTELS
WWWHOTELPARISIT ,ARGE ROOM THREE STAR HOTEL THAT OFFERS BETTER VALUE THAN THE NEARBY FOUR STAR -ICHELANGELO 0ALACE 4HE FACILITIES ARE GOOD BUT THE MODERN ROOMS ARE SOMEWHAT SOULLESS VERY CONVENIENT FOR THE STATION HOWEVER IF YOURE JUST PASSING THROUGH 'ARDEN 6IALE "RAMANTE WWW GARDENHOTELTERNIIT .OT CENTRAL BUT TOP OF THE RANGE LUXURY IN A MODERN AND LARGE FOUR STAR HOTEL CLOSE TO THE EXIT FROM THE SUPERSTRADA WITH SWIMMING POOL mOWER lLLED BALCONIES AND ALL THE FRILLS
%ATING AND DRINKING
4ERNI PUTS ON A RATHER BETTER SHOWING WITH ITS RESTAURANTS THERE ARE A COUPLE OF TOP GRADE GASTRONOMIC VENUES NUMEROUS CHEAP AND SERVICEABLE TRATTORIE AND DOZENS OF PIZZA BY THE SLICE AND FAST FOOD OUTLETS 4ACITUS 0IAZZA 4ACITO IS A GOOD LOCAL TRATTORIA A FEW MINUTES WALK SOUTH OF THE STATION CLOSED &RI n YOULL PASS IT EN ROUTE TO THE TOURIST OFlCE &OR SOMETHING JUST AS GOOD TRY THE TINY ,A 0IAZZETTA 6IA DEL ,EONE WITH A LONG MENU OF RELIABLE REGIONAL DISHES CLOSED 3UN WEEKS IN !UG !LSO lRST RATE IS )L 'ATTO -AMMONE 6ICO #ATINA CLOSED 3UN !UG A LITTLE MORE EXPENSIVE AND IMAGINATIVE IN ITS COOKING 4HE CITYS OLDEST BAR IS THE 0AZZAGLIA #ORSO 4ACITO A GREAT SOURCE OF CAKES AND PASTRIES INCLUDING LAMOUR POLENTA THE HOUSE SPECIALITY
\ 4ERNI
"RENTA 6IALE "RENTA #ENTRAL ROOM ONE STAR HOTEL WITH A RESTAURANT %XTREME LY CHEAP BUT ALSO PRETTY BASIC NOT ALL ROOMS HAVE PRIVATE BATHROOMS "RENTA )) 6IA -ONTEGRAPPA ! MIDDLING MODERN TWO STAR HOTEL WITH ROOMS EACH WITH BATHROOM BUT LITTLE ELSE IN THE WAY OF FRILLS IN A QUIET BACKWATER NEIGHBOUR HOOD ACROSS THE RIVER TO THE EAST $E 0ARIS 6IALE 3TAZIONE
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4ERNI IS A MAJOR RAIL JUNCTION WITH TRAINS RUNNING ON THE STATE NETWORK FROM 2OME /RTE CONNECTION POINT FROM /RVIETO AND &LORENCE 3POLETO &OLIGNO CONNECTION POINT FROM !SSISI 3PELLO AND 0ERUGIA AND 2IETI 4HERES ALSO THE PRIVATE TRAIN LINE WHICH SHARES THE STATE RAILWAY STATION WITH HOURLY TRAINS FROM 4ODI 0ERUGIA #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO 3ANSEPOLCRO AND STATIONS EN ROUTE !4# BUSES LEAVE FROM THE FORECOURT NEAR THE TRAIN STATION TO NUMEROUS LOCAL VILLAGES AND TO .ARNI 4ODI THE #ASCATE DELLE -ARMORE 0IEDILUCO !RRONE &ERENTILLO 4RIPONZO 3POLETO /RVIETO 6ITERBO AND 3CHEGGINO 9OU CAN CHANGE MONEY AT 4ERNIS TRAIN STATION TICKET OFlCE DAILY AMnPM AND AT THE POST OFlCE 6IA DEL 0LEBISCITO -ONn3AT AMnPM LAST 3AT OF MONTH CLOSES NOON &ROM THE TRAIN STATION HEAD M ALONG 6IALE DELLA 3TAZI ONE TO THE SEVENTH TURNING ON THE RIGHT FOR THE TOURIST OFlCE 6IALE #ESARE "AT TISTI A -ONn3AT AMnPM 4UES &RI ALSO nPM WWW PROVINCIATERNIIT OR WWWCOMUNETERNIIT 4HE REGIONAL TOURIST OFlCE COV ERING THE ,OWER 6ALNERINA .ARNI AND /TRICOLI IS IN THE SAME BUILDING
4HE ,OWER 6ALNERINA 4ERNI IS THE IDEAL POINT OF ENTRY FOR THE ,OWER 6ALNERINA AND ON TO .ORCIA AND THE 3IBILLINI DRIVE OR TAKE A BUS ALONG THE 33 WHICH FOLLOWS THE VALLEY INTO ITS UPPER REACHES SEE P "USES FROM 4ERNI GO AS FAR AS 4RIPONZO SEE P VIA 0IEDIPATERNO WHERE YOU COULD LINK UP WITH BUS CONNECTIONS ON TO .ORCIA OR 3POLETO 4HE LOWER VALLEYS HIGHLIGHT IS UNDOUBTEDLY THE !BBAZIA DI 3AN 0IETRO IN 6ALLE SEE P KM NORTH OF THE CITY BUT ON THE WAY YOULL PASS A NUMBER OF lNE NATURAL DIVERSIONS SUCH AS THE -ARMORE WATERFALLS AND ,AGO DI 0IEDILUCO 3CENERY IS GENERALLY SCRAPPY UNTIL &ERENTILLO HOWEVER n WHEN THE HILLS START TO RISE IN IMPRESSIVE FASHION n SO THERES AN ARGUMENT FOR SIMPLY IGNORING THE VALLEYS LOWER REACHES UNTIL YOU HIT 3AN 0IETRO #ASCATE DELLE -ARMORE
/2 6 ) % 4/ ! .$ 3 / 5 4 ( % 2 . 5 - "2 ) !
\ 4HE ,OWER 6ALNERINA
4HE lRST STOP OF INTEREST IN THE VALLEY COMES JUST KM SOUTHEAST OF 4ERNI AT THE #ASCATE DELLE -ARMORE ACCESS BY TRAIN OR BUSES FROM 4ERNIS 0IAZZA $ANTE WHICH AT M ARE AMONG THE HIGHEST WATERFALLS IN %UROPE 4HEY WERE CRE ATED BY THE 2OMANS IN "# WHEN THEY DIVERTED THE 2IVER 6ELINO INTO THE .ERA DURING DRAINAGE OF MARSHLANDS TO THE SOUTH &URTHER CHANNELS WERE CUT IN AND BOTH WITH THE INTENTION OF DRAINING 2IETIS PLAIN WITHOUT mOODING 4ERNI THOUGH THE FALLS MAJOR BOOST CAME WITH THE DAMMING OF ,AGO DI 0IEDILUCO IN THE S TO SATISFY INDUSTRIAL DEMAND FOR HYDROELECTRIC POWER 4ERNIS POWER STATION COMPLEX IS THE LARGEST HYDROELECTRIC PLANT IN )TALY 0ICTURES OF THE FALLS IN FULL SPATE ADORN MOST 5MBRIAN TOURIST OFlCES BUT WHAT THEY DONT TELL YOU IS THAT THE WATER CAN BE DIVERTED THROUGH TURBINES AT THE mICK OF A SWITCH LEAVING A NONE TOO SPECTACULAR TRICKLE &LOW TIMES ARE NOTORIOUSLY VARIABLE *ULY !UG -ONn&RI NOONnPM nPM nPM 3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM nPM *UNE -ONn&RI nPM nPM 3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM MID -ARCH TO -AY 3EPT -ONn&RI NOONnPM nPM 3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM nPM /CT 3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM nPM .OV TO MID -ARCH 3UN nPM n IN GENERAL EVENINGS AND 3UNDAY MORNINGS ARE LIKELIEST ESPECIALLY DURING *ULY AND !UGUST WHEN THERES AN IMPRESSIVE SON ET LUMIÒRE 4HERE ARE TWO OBSERVATION POINTS THE BELVEDERE IN -ARMORE VILLAGE AND THE 33 ROAD DOWN BELOW ! STEEP AND FREQUENTLY MUDDY PATH CONNECTS THE TWO STARTING M DOWNSTREAM OF THE FALLS AND THERE ARE SWIMMING POOLS AT THE BOTTOM OF THE CASCADE WHEN THE WATERS TURNED OFF 4HE GREEN AND LUXURIANT SETTING TUMBLING WATER AND ACRES OF GLEAMING MARBLE ADD UP TO A SPECTACULAR SHOW n SHAME ABOUT THE FACTORIES AROUND THE CORNER -ARMORE HAS A CAMPSITE THE -ARMORE AT THE NEARBY HAMLET OF #AMPACCI !PRILn3EPT ,AGO DI 0IEDILUCO
3URROUNDED BY STEEP THICKLY WOODED HILLS ,AGO DI 0IEDILUCO IS RATHER LIKE A MINIATURE ALPINE LAKE ITS WATERS ARE DARK AND DEEP A BIT MURKY FOR SWIMMING AND IN PLACES UNSAFE THOUGH THE FRINGES ARE EDGED WITH THE ODD BEACH 0IEDILUCO TRAIN STATION IS ON THE SOUTHWEST EDGE OF THE LAKE KM SOUTHEAST OF -ARMORE AND ABOUT KM FROM 0)%$),5#/ VILLAGE ON THE NORTH SHORE 4HE STATION IS A PERFECT ACCESS POINT IF YOU WANT TO PUT UP A TENT ON THE SOUTHERN LESS VISITED SHORE OR TO WALK THE SCENIC MINOR ROAD NO VEHICLE ACCESS n REACHED BY WALKING THROUGH THE QUARRY BY THE STATION n TO -ONTE #APERNO WHERE THERES A QUAY FOR BOATS SERVING 0IEDILUCO VILLAGE AND A FAMOUS ECHO THATS CONSTANTLY BEING TRIED OUT )T REPRODUCES WITH PERFECT CLARITY PHRASES UP TO FOUR SECONDS IN LENGTH
THE STOCK )TALIAN TEST PHRASE BEING LINES FROM THE MYSTIC POET *ACOPONE DA 4ODI SEE P h0ER TE AMOR CONUMONE LANGUENDO E VO STRIDENDO PER TE ABBRACCIAREv h)M PINING FOR YOU MY DARLING AND LOOKING FORWARD TO EMBRACING YOUv 0IEDILUCO VILLAGE IS A MAJOR SAILING AND CANOEING CENTRE ALWAYS CROWDED AT WEEKENDS WITH PEOPLE ESCAPING FROM 4ERNI !CCOMMODATION CAN BE TIGHT (EAD FOR THE TWO STAR ,IDO 0IAZZA "ONANNI OR THE SMART THREE STAR #ASALAGO -AZZALVETTA OVERLOOKING THE LAKE 4HE CAMPSITE )L ,AGO CMARMORE CUOREVERDECOM !PRILn/CT AT 3TRADA DI 6ALLE 3POLETINA D IN NEARBY !RA -ARINA IS LARGE AND OFTEN BUSY .OTE THAT NEAR BY ,ABRO WHOSE MEDIEVAL HOUSES LOOK ATTRACTIVE FROM A DISTANCE IS OWNED LOCK STOCK AND BARREL BY "ELGIANS AND OPERATES ONLY AS A HOLIDAY VILLAGE &OR FOOD TRY THE SMALL INEXPENSIVE FAMILY RUN 4AVOLETTA 6IA &ORCA CLOSED -ONn7ED AND PERIODS IN *UNE /CT $EC !RRONE AND -ONTEFRANCO
&%2%.4),,/ IS RAPIDLY BECOMING THE FREE CLIMBING CAPITAL OF )TALY ITS CRAGS SWARMING AT WEEKENDS AS NEW AND MORE DIFlCULT ROUTES ARE PIONEERED 4HE VILLAGE ITSELF SPRAWLS ACROSS TWO ROCKY HILLSIDES GUARDED BY TWIN FOURTEENTH CENTURY TOWERS AND MERITS A STOP FOR ONE OF 5MBRIAS MORE GROTESQUE MÏNAGES n A COLLECTION OF MUMMIES 4HESE ARE TO BE FOUND PROPPED UP IN THE -USEO DELLE -UMMIE IN THE CRYPT OF 3AN 3TEFANO ON 6IA DELLA 4ORRE SIGNPOSTED OFF THE MAIN ROAD DAILY !PRILn3EPT AMnPM nPM -ARCH /CT AMnPM nPM .OVn&EB AMnPM nPM + ON THE EAST SIDE OF THE .ERA IN THE 0RECETTO QUARTER .OW BEHIND GLASS AND VIEWED ON GUIDED TOURS n A PRECAUTION TAKEN AFTER A HEAD WAS STOLEN n THE CORPSES WERE SIMPLY DUMPED IN THE CRYPT AND PRESERVED BY ACCIDENT APPARENTLY DRIED BY THEIR BED OF SANDY SOIL AND A DESICCATING WIND FROM THE SOUTH FACING WINDOWS 4HE
\ 4HE ,OWER 6ALNERINA
&ERENTILLO AND ITS MUMMIES
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.ORTH UP THE VALLEY !22/.% AND -/.4%&2!.#/ ARE THE lRST OF SEV ERAL FORTRESS VILLAGES -ONTEFRANCO HAS THE BETTER OF THE VIEWS BUT PORTIONS OF ITS MEDIEVAL CENTRE ARE IN RUINS AND THERES LITTLE CHEER EITHER IN THE SHAPE OF FOOD AND DRINK OR FROM ITS INHABITANTS !CROSS THE VALLEY !RRONE SITS ATOP A ROCKY PINNACLE CROWNED BY AN INVITING LITTLE TOWER 4HE VILLAGES ALLEYS AGAIN LACK THE SPARKLE OF THEIR DISTANT PROMISE THOUGH THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA !SSUNTA IN THE CENTRAL 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI CONTAINS RECENTLY UNCOVERED SIXTEENTH CENTURY FRES COES 4HESE INCLUDE APSE FRESCOES BY *ACOPO 3ICULO WHOSE WORK YOU CAN ALSO SEE IN THE $UOMO IN 3POLETO AND SCENES FROM THE ,IFE OF THE 6IRGIN BY 'IOVANNI DI 3POLETO AND 6INCENZO 4AMAGNI INSPIRED BY ,IPPIS FRESCOES IN THE APSE OF THE SAME CATHEDRAL 7ITH TRANSPORT YOU COULD MAKE THE SCENIC DRIVE FROM !RRONE TO 0/,)./ A TWELVE KILOMETRE SUCCESSION OF HAIRPINS THROUGH DENSE FOREST TO 5MBRIAS SMALL EST COMUNE n JUST A COUPLE OF HUNDRED PEOPLE A TINY CASTLE AND ONE NAMELESS TRAT TORIA 0RESS ON AND YOU REACH #/,,% "%24/.% M A MINOR WINTER RESORT IN GOOD WALKING COUNTRY 4HERES A SMALL HOTEL HERE PERCHED IDYLLICALLY AT M ,A "AITA /THER LOCAL ACCOMMODATION IS SCARCE .EAR !RRONE ON THE MAIN ROAD LOOK FOR THE TWO STAR 2OSSI )SOLA #ASTEL DEL ,AGO ITS RESTAURANT CLOSED &RI IS ONE OF THE BETTER AROUND !T 2ACOGNANO ON THE 33 NEAR -ONTEFRANCO THERES THE RITZIER THREE STAR &ONTEGAIA WWWHOTELFONTEGAIAIT ALSO WITH A RESTAURANT ! CHEAPER PLACE TO EAT IS THE 2EMA CLOSED -ON ON THE 0OLINO ROAD FROM !RRONE
CHARACTERS ARE A CURIOUS MIX TWO &RENCH SOLDIERS HANGED DURING THE .APOLEON IC WARS A BEARDED DWARF A MOTHER WHO DIED IN CHILDBIRTH THE CHILD DISPLAYED ALONGSIDE HER A PAPAL SOLDIER BOLT UPRIGHT WITH HIS GUN HOUSED IN THE CASE OF A GRANDFATHER CLOCK A LAWYER SHOT IN A LOCAL FEUD OVER A FARM A FARMER WHOSE GUN BACKlRED IN THE SAME FEUD AND BLASTED A HOLE IN HIS STOMACH AND A HAPLESS #HINESE COUPLE WHO CAME TO )TALY IN FOR THEIR HONEYMOON AND DIED OF CHOLERA 4O ROUND THINGS OFF THERES A PILE OF LEERING SKULLS WITH A MUMMIlED OWL PERCHED IN THEIR MIDST 9OU WOULDNT NECESSARILY WANT TO STAY LOCALLY THOUGH THERE IS A GOOD THREE STAR HOTEL THE ELEVEN ROOM -ONTERIVOSO A CONVERTED MILL AT 6IA #ASE 3PARSE IN THE NEARBY HAMLET OF -ONTERIVISO WWWMONTERIVOSO IT n THOUGH YOUD DO BETTER STAYING KM NORTH AT THE ABBEY OF 3AN 0IETRO SEE P 4HERES A GOOD RESTAURANT THE 0IERMARINI 6IA DELLA 6ITTORIA A CLOSED 3UN EVENING -ON THREE WEEKS IN !UG 3EPT WHOSE INTERESTING COOKING VENTURES BEYOND THE MORE USUAL 5MBRIAN STAN DARDS
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\ .ARNI
.!2.) IS AN INTIMATE UNSPOILT HILL TOWN THAT JUTS INTO THE .ERA VALLEY ON A MAJESTIC SPUR CROWNED BY ANOTHER OF #ARDINAL !LBORNOZS FORMIDABLE CITADELS )T LIES HALF AN HOUR BY TRAIN MIDWAY BETWEEN 4ERNI AND /RTE FROM THE LATTER ITS A SPECTACULAR TRIP THROUGH A TREE lLLED GORGE 4HE FORTRESS DRAWS AN ADMIRING GLANCE BEFORE YOU SEE THE WELTER OF CHEMICAL WORKS AROUND .ARNI 3CALO THE NEW TOWN THATS GROWN UP AROUND THE STATION n THANKFULLY ALMOST INVISIBLE FROM THE MEDIEVAL CENTRE /LD .ARNIS STAGE SET MEDIEVALISM IS EVEN MORE COMPLETE THAN 0ERUGIAS OR !SSISIS ITS QUIET PIAZZAS 2OMANESQUE CHURCHES n NOTABLY THE $UOMO AND 3ANTA -ARIA IN 0ENSOLE n AND LABYRINTH OF ANCIENT STREETS AND STEPPED PASSAGEWAYS FORMING ONE OF )TALYS MOST CONGENIAL TOWNSCAPES 4HERE ARE ALSO VESTIGES FROM THE TIME WHEN .ARNI WAS THE 2OMAN COLONY OF .ARNIA ESTABLISHED IN "# n ONE OF THE lRST IN 5MBRIA n AND A LINCHPIN IN 2OMES DEFENCES STANDING CLOSE TO THE 4IBER VALLEY AND THE UNDEFENDED ROAD TO THE CAPITAL )T WAS THE BIRTHPLACE IN !$ OF THE 2OMAN EMPEROR .ERVA AND OF %RASMO DA .ARNI BETTER KNOWN AS 'ATTAMELATA n ONE OF THE GREATEST OF ALL MEDIEVAL MERCENARIES 3AN 'IOVENALE IS THE FOCUS OF .ARNIS MAIN FESTIVAL DURING WHICH A FORTNIGHT OF FESTIVITIES LEAD UP TO THE #ORSA DELL!NELLO HELD ON THE SECOND 3UNDAY IN -AY /N THE 3ATURDAY EVENING OF THAT WEEKEND A TORCHLIT PROCESSION TAKES PLACE 4HE NEXT DAY CONTESTANTS FROM THE TOWNS THREE MEDIEVAL QUARTERS COMPETE TO THRUST A LANCE THROUGH A RING ANELLO SUSPENDED IN 6IA -AGGIORE
!RRIVAL INFORMATION AND ACCOMMODATION
"USES FROM NEARBY TOWNS AS WELL AS THE STATION ARRIVE AT 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI WHERE THERES AN !4# OFlCE FOR BUS INFORMATION AND TICKETS AND LIMITED PARKING THERE ARE MORE SPACES ON THE APPROACH TO THE SQUARE IN 6IA 2OMA &REQUENT TRAINS FROM BOTH 4ERNI AND /RTE WHERE YOU CAN PICK UP CONNECTIONS TO /RVIETO ON THE 2OMEn&LORENCE LINE ARRIVE AT .ARNI 3CALO STATION &ROM THE STATION FORE COURT BUSES RUN INTO TOWN BUY TICKETS ON BOARD OR FROM THE STATION NEWS KIOSK 9OU MAY HAVE TO WAIT BUT DONT BE TEMPTED INTO THE LONG AND TEDIOUS WALK 4HE POST OFlCE 6IA 6ITTORIO %MANUELE HAS A FOREIGN EXCHANGE FACILITY 4HE TOURIST OFlCE IS AT 0IAZZA DEI 0RIORI SUMMER -ONn&RI AMn PM nPM 3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN AMnPM
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nPM VARIABLE WINTER HOURS INFO IATNARNITRIT !SK HERE FOR DETAILS OF .ARNI 3OTTERRANEA h5NDERGROUND .ARNIv WWW NARNISOTTERRANEAIT PARTLY INSPIRED BY THE SIMILAR EXCELLENT ENTERPRISE IN /RVI ETO SEE P )T INVOLVES GUIDED TOURS OF SOME OF THE TOWNS ANCIENT SUBTER RANEAN CHAMBERS AND TUNNELS NOTABLY THOSE AROUND 3AN $OMENICO 3ANTA -ARIA )MPENSOLE AND THE 2OMAN h&ORMINAv AQUEDUCT THAT BROUGHT WATER TO 0IAZZA
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5 3IDE STREET IN .ARNI
'ARIBALDI 4OURS ARE RATHER IMPROMPTU AND CURRENTLY RESTRICTED TO 3ATURDAYS AND SOME 3UNDAYS BUT MORE MAY BE INTRODUCED ESPECIALLY IN SUMMER !CCOMMODATION
\ .ARNI
4HE CHEAPER OF THE TWO TOWN HOTELS IS THE THREE STAR -INARETO 6IA DEI #AP PUCCINI .UOVI SITUATED OUTSIDE THE WALLS JUST SOUTHEAST OF THE 0ORTA 4ERNANA BUT YOURE BETTER OFF PLUMPING FOR THE OLD WORLD lNERY OF THE VERY CENTRAL THREE STAR $EI 0RIORI 6ICOLO DEL #OMUNE WWWLOGGIADEIPRIORIIT ! CHEAPER ALTERNATIVE IS THE SIMPLE #ASA DI !CCOGLIENZA RUN BY THE NUNS OF 3ANTA !NNA AT 6IA 'ATTEMELATA WHICH HAS BEDS AT + PER PERSON 4HE ALTERNATIVES n FOR EMERGENCIES ONLY n ARE HOTELS IN .ARNI 3CALO BY THE STATION THE THREE STAR .OVELLI 6IA DELLA 3TAZIONE HAS HAD A COMPLETE RENOVATION WHICH HAS TURNED IT INTO A COMFORTABLE AND INEXPENSIVE PLACE TO STAY (OWEVER ITS LOCATION UNLESS YOURE COMING OFF THE TRAIN IS HARDLY PERFECT 4HERES A CAMPSITE KM SOUTH AT -ONTE DEL 3OLE ON THE ROAD TO "ORGARIA !PRILn3EPT
4HE 4OWN
4HE CIRCUITOUS BUS ROUTE FROM .ARNI 3CALO TO THE MEDIEVAL TOWN ALLOWS A BRIEF VIEW OF THE 2OMAN 0ONTE DI !UGUSTO A SOLITARY ARCH BUILT IN "# IN THE MIDDLE OF THE RIVER A SECOND COLLAPSED IN REMNANT OF A BRIDGE WHICH IN ITS DAY WAS M HIGH AND SPANNED M A PRODUCT OF !UGUSTAN ERA RENOVATIONS
TO THE 6IA &LAMINIA )N THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY THIS WAS ONE OF THE KEY SIGHTS ON THE 'RAND 4OUR n #OROT AMONG OTHERS PAINTED THE SCENE THE PICTURE IS IN THE ,OUVRE n BUT NOW IS SO LOST AMONG THE LOWER TOWNS DEVELOPMENT THAT YOU COULD EASILY MISS IT COMPLETELY THE BEST VIEWPOINT IS PROVIDED BY THE TRAIN FROM /RTE JUST BEFORE YOU PULL INTO .ARNI 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI IS THE TOWNS RATHER ODDLY SHAPED AND DISJOINTED SOCIAL HUB ITS ANCIENT NAME 0IAZZA DEL ,AGO HINTS AT ONE REASON FOR THE STRANGENESS FOR THE SQUARE WAS ONCE A MEDIEVAL CISTERN OR LACUS BUILT OVER A 2OMAN CISTERN FED BY AN AQUEDUCT FROM THE SURROUNDING HILLS .OTE THE PIAZZAS RESTORED FOUNTAIN DECORATED BY IMAGINARY ANIMALS &ROM THE SQUARE THE MAIN STREET 6IA 'ARIBALDI AND ITS CONTINUATION 6IA -AZZINI LEADS NORTH TO THE HEART OF THE OLD TOWN n STILL BUILT ON THE OLD 2OMAN GRID n THROUGH AN ARCH IN THE CITY WALLS FOLLOWING THE COURSE OF THE 6IA &LAMINIA WHOSE CONSTRUCTION IN "# SET THE SEAL ON .ARNIS IMPORTANCE 4HE $UOMO
\
/2 6 ) % 4/ ! .$ 3 / 5 4 ( % 2 . 5 - "2 ) ! .ARNI
4HE $UOMO OR #ATTEDRALE DI 3AN 'IOVENALE DAILY AMnPM nPM FREE FRONTING 6IA 'ARIBALDIS lRST BEND WAS BUILT AROUND AND NAMED AFTER .ARNIS lRST BISHOP WHO WAS BURIED IN ACCORDANCE WITH 2OMAN CUSTOM OUTSIDE WHAT WERE THEN THE TOWN WALLS IN /THER RELIGIOUS WORTHIES BURIED ON THE SITE INCLUDE 3AN #ASSIO INTERRED HERE IN "Y THE NINTH CEN TURY PERHAPS EARLIER A CHAPEL HAD BEEN BUILT WHICH PROVIDED THE BASIS FOR THE CHURCH n BY THEN WITHIN THE TOWNS MEDIEVAL BORDERS )T WAS CONSECRATED IN BY 0OPE %UGENIUS ))) AND AMENDED OVER THE YEARS SO THAT IT IS NOW AN INTRIGUING MIX OF ACCRETIONS FROM MOST CENTURIES SINCE )TS FACADE IS SMALL AND UNASSUMING CRAMPED BY SURROUNDING BUILDINGS AND BY THE ,OMBARD INmUENCED PORTICO WHICH DATES FROM WITH LATER ADDITIONS 4HE PORTAL LACED WITH CARVINGS DATES FROM THE TWELFTH CENTURY )NSIDE THE CHURCH HAS A SLIGHTLY LOPSIDED FEEL OWING TO THE ADDITION OF AN OUTER SOUTH AISLE IN THE lFTEENTH CENTURY 4HE EXTRAVAGANT "AROQUE ALTAR IS OVER SHADOWED BY GOLD LEAFED PULPITS ON EITHER SIDE OF THE NAVE AND AN INTRICATE SCREEN n ALL MAINLY LATE lFTEENTH CENTURY WORKS BUT INCORPORATING FRAGMENTS OF 2OMANESQUE AND PALEO #HRISTIAN RELIEFS 4HE #OSMATI PAVEMENT IS ALSO ATTRAC TIVE WHILE ELSEWHERE PARTS OF THE ORIGINAL CHURCH SHOW THROUGH CHIEmY IN THE PATCHES OF FRESCO n NOTABLY A LITTLE NICHE -ADONNA AND #HILD ON THE WEST REAR WALL AND IN THE APSE BEHIND THE CHOIR 4HE LITTLE WOODEN SUMMER STATUE REPRESENTING 3T !NTHONY !BBOT NEAR THE REAR WALL AT THE START OF THE LEFT AISLE IS BY THE 3IENESE MASTER 6ECCHIETTA WHO MAY ALSO HAVE BEEN RESPONSIBLE FOR 3AN 'IOVENALE A PAINTING OF .ARNIS PATRON SAINT ON THE LAST PILLAR OF THE RIGHT AISLE 'IOVENALES TOMB LIES IN THE CELLAR LIKE CHAPEL MIDWAY DOWN THE SOUTH AISLE THE EXTRAORDINARY 3ACELLO DI 3AN 'IOVENALE E 3AN #ASSIO ALSO KNOWN AS THE /RATORIO DI 3AN #ASSIO )TS SHIELDED BY A #OSMATESQUE MARBLE SCREEN AND PILLARS POSSIBLY FROM THE PRESBYTERY OF THE 2OMANESQUE CHURCH HERE REBUILT IN AND A RELIEF OF 4WO ,AMBS ADORING THE #ROSS TOGETHER WITH TWO THIRTEENTH CENTURY NICHE STATUES OF THE 0IETÌ AND 3AN 'IOVENALE !N IMPORTANT PIECE OF EARLY #HRISTIAN ARCHITECTURE THE CHAPEL DATES FROM ITS CRUDE AGE BLACKENED WALLS CONTAIN A NINTH CENTURY MOSAIC OF #HRIST HIGH UP ON AN INNER WALL THE OLDEST IN THE REGION )NSIDE ARE MORE #OSMATI FRAGMENTS AND RELIEFS TOGETHER WITH THE EIGHTH OR NINTH CENTURY SARCOPHAGUS USED AS 'IOVENALES TOMB THE STONES BEYOND THE TOMB REPRESENT PART OF THE ORIGINAL 2OMAN WALL 4HE TOMB OF #ASSIO AND HIS WIFE &ASTA IS ABOVE THE CHAPEL ENTRANCE 4HE COUPLES REMAINS ALONG WITH THOSE OF 'IOVENALE WERE STOLEN BY THE 4USCANS IN AND LANGUISHED FOR A TIME IN ,UCCA
4HE 0INACOTECA #IVICA
4HE 0ALAZZO 6ESCOVILE ALONGSIDE THE $UOMO A SEVENTEENTH CENTURY FORMER BISHOPS PALACE IS PROBABLY DESTINED TO HOUSE THE TOWNS 0INACOTECA #IVICA 9EARS IN THE PLANNING AND EXECUTION IT WILL COLLECT WORK CURRENTLY HELD IN THE 0ALAZZO DEL 0ODESTÌ AND VARIOUS CHURCHES AROUND TOWN THERE WILL ALSO BE A SECTION DEVOTED TO THE GOLD AND SILVERWARE FROM THE CATHEDRAL TREASURY )N THE COLLECTION THE INmUENCE OF 4USCAN ARTISTS IN THE REGION IS ACKNOWLEDGED IN "ENOZZO 'OZZOLIS !NNUNCIATION n AND A TABERNACLE ATTRIBUTED TO THE SCHOOL OF !GOSTINO DI $UCCIO /NE SECTION WILL BE DEVOTED TO 3AN 'IROLAMO AN IMPORTANT FORMER &RANCISCAN CONVENT KM SOUTHEAST OF .ARNI THAT WAS ONCE HOME TO THE TOWNS BEST PAINTING $OMENICO 'HIRLANDAIOS #ORONATION OF THE 6IRGIN CURRENTLY ON VIEW IN THE 0ALAZZO DEL 0ODESTÌ SEE BELOW COMMIS SIONED FOR THE CONVENT IN BY #ARDINAL %ROLI A CLERIC WHO WAS ALSO BUSY IN 3POLETO SEE P /THER WORKS FROM THE CONVENT INCLUDE DETACHED lFTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES A PAINTED TERRACOTTA BUST OF 3T "ERNARDINO OF 3IENA ATTRIBUTED TO THE 3IENESE ARTIST 6ECCHIETTA AND A LUNETTE ATTRIBUTED TO 0IER -ATTEO D!MELIA FRESCOED WITH A -ADONNA AND #HILD AND 33 &RANCIS AND 'IRALOMO 4HE BEST OF THE CATHEDRAL TREASURYS EXHIBITS ARE SIX BRONZE CHANDELIERS AND A PAIR OF EIGHTEENTH CENTURY RELIQUARIES 0IAZZA DEI 0RIORI /2 6 ) % 4/ ! .$ 3 / 5 4 ( % 2 . 5 - "2 ) !
\ .ARNI
6IA 'ARIBALDI CONTINUES THROUGH A VIBRANT RESIDENTIAL CENTRE FOLLOWING THE LINE OF THE OLD 2OMAN #ARDO -AXIMUS PAST 6IA DEL #AMPANILE ON THE LEFT WHICH PROVIDES A GLIMPSE OF THE CATHEDRALS lFTEENTH CENTURY CAMPANILE BUILT ON A 2OMAN BASE )T SOON EMERGES INTO THE 0IAZZA DEI 0RIORI A PERFECT LITTLE CIVIC SQUARE WHERE PRIDE OF PLACE GOES TO THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY 0ALAZZO DEI 0RIORI AND ITS LOGGIA DESIGNED BY THE 'UBBIAN -ATTEO 'ATTAPONE THE ARCHITECT RESPONSIBLE FOR 'UBBIOS 0ALAZZO DEI #ONSOLI AND 3POLETOS VAST 0ONTE DELLE 4ORRI .EXT TO ITS HIGH ARCHES AND 2OMAN INSCRIPTION IS A LITTLE EXTERIOR PULPIT BUILT FOR THE PERIPATETIC 3T "ERNARDINO 4HE STRIKING 0ALAZZO 3ACRIPANTE ALONG SIDE IS COVERED IN MEDIEVAL RELIEFS /PPOSITE THE 0ALAZZO DEI 0RIORI IS THE 0ALAZZO DEL 0ODESTÌ OR 0ALAZZO #OMUNALE COBBLED TOGETHER BY AMALGAMATING THREE TOWN HOUSES AND ADDING SOME TOKEN DECORATION 4HE THIRTEENTH CENTURY 2OMANESQUE SCULPTURES ABOVE THE MAIN DOOR ARE WORTH A GLANCE AS ARE THE NUMEROUS 2OMAN FRAGMENTS OF THE COURTYARD )N THE 3ALA DI #ONSIGLIO OR 3ALA #ONSIGLIARE &RIn3UN PUBLIC HOLS AMnPM nPM FREE IS DISPLAYED THE BEST OF THE WORKS DESTINED FOR THE 0INACOTECA #IVICA SEE ABOVE THESE INCLUDE 'OZZOLIS !NNUNCIATION AND THE MAJESTIC #ORONATION OF THE 6IRGIN BY THE &LORENTINE $OMENICO 'HIRLAND AIO 4HE LATTER IS THE TOWNS PRIDE AND JOY AND IT WAS SO ADMIRED BY THE AUTHORI TIES OF 4ODI AND 4REVI THAT THEY COMMISSIONED CHEAPER COPIES BY THE LOCAL ARTIST ,O 3PAGNA !NOTHER SMALL ROOM NEARBY CONTAINS PAINTINGS REMOVED FROM 3AN $OMENICO THE TOWNS FORMER PICTURE GALLERY AMONG THEM A DOUBLE SIDED STAN DARD DATED BY THE ANONYMOUS -AESTRO DI .ARNI SHOWING THE $ORMITION AND #ORONATION OF THE 6IRGIN 4HE REST OF THE TOWN
"EYOND THE PIAZZA 6IA -AZZINI PASSES AFTER M THE INCONSPICUOUS BUT LOVELY CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA )MPENSOLE DAILY AMnPM nPM FREE ! SIMPLE BASILICA UNCHANGED SINCE IT WAS BUILT IN IT WAS SITED OVER A PAGAN PLACE OF WORSHIP THAT IN TURN WAS THE SITE OF A CEMETERY AND THEN A 2OMAN ERA HOUSE WITH TWO STILL EXTANT CISTERNS )T HAS AN ENCHANTING TRIPLE ARCHED 2OMANESQUE PORTICO AND A BEAUTIFUL CARVED FRIEZE AROUND THE SQUARE
%ATING AND DRINKING
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/2 6 ) % 4/ ! .$ 3 / 5 4 ( % 2 . 5 - "2 ) ! .ARNI
DOORWAYS 4HE INTERIOR IS PLAIN SAVE FOR A FEW SIMPLE CARVINGS AND CAPITALS THOUGH INTERESTING ROOMS BELOW THE NAVE WITH 2OMAN REMAINS ARE OCCASIONALLY OPEN INCLUDING ONE WITH A SIXTH CENTURY TOMB 4HE EX CHURCH OF 3AN $OMENICO A SLIGHTLY FORLORN BUILDING A SHORT WAY FARTHER DOWN 6IA -AZZINI IS NOW HOME TO .ARNIS ARCHIVES AND PUBLIC LIBRARY -ONn4HURS AMnPM nPM &RI AMnPM FREE )TS WORTH DROP PING BY FOR THE WEALTH OF MEDIEVAL FRESCO FRAGMENTS AROUND THE WALLS AND THE FUNERARY WALL MONUMENT TO 'ABRIELE -ASSEI CRAFTED BY FOLLOWERS OF !GOSTINO DI $UCCIO 9OU COULD ALSO TRY ASKING IN THE LIBRARY TO VIEW THE 2OMAN AQUEDUCT THAT LIES BELOW THE BUILDING "EHIND THE CHURCH TO THE LEFT AT THE BEGINNING OF 6IA !URELIO 3AFl A SMALL GARDEN WITH FRAGMENTS OF AN OLD TOWER OFFERS GREAT VIEWS DOWN INTO THE .ERA GORGE THE DISTINCTIVE BUILDING WAY DOWN BELOW IS THE RECENTLY RESTORED TWELFTH CENTURY "ENEDICTINE !BBAZIA DI 3AN #ASSIANO GENERALLY OPEN TO THE PUBLIC ON 3UN 4HE NORTHERN TIP OF THE TOWN IS GRACED WITH MORE GARDENS AND GOOD VIEWS AS WELL AS STEEP LITTLE STREETS LEADING DOWN TO 6IA 'ATTAMELATA NO IS REPUTEDLY THE BIRTHPLACE OF THE EPONYMOUS CONDOTTIERE MERCENARY 4OWARDS THE STREETS SOUTHERN END LIES THE TATTY WATER STAINED CHURCH OF 3ANT!GOSTINO ITS LARGE BARE PORTAL CONCEALING AN INTERIOR WITH A REDOUBTABLE FOURTEENTH CENTURY STONE ALTAR AND A FEW MEDIEVAL FADED FRESCOES AMIDST HALF HEARTED "AROQUE 4HE BEST FRESCO TO THE RIGHT OF THE MAIN DOOR IS A -ADONNA %NTHRONED WITH 33 ,UCY AND !POLLONIA BY THE ACCOMPLISHED LOCAL ARTIST 0IER -ATTEO D!MELIA BEST KNOWN AS ONE OF &RA &ILIPPO ,IPPIS TWO ASSISTANTS ON THE APSE FRESCOES IN 3PO LETO CATHEDRAL !LSO SPARE A MOMENT FOR THE FRESCO FRAGMENTS IN THE APSE WHICH DEPICT A VARIETY OF SAINTS 2ETURNING TO 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI AND HEADING SOUTH TAKES YOU INTO A WARREN OF LITTLE STREETS WORTH WANDERING FOR THEIR OWN SAKE !T THE TOP OF THIS QUARTER LIES THE 2OCCA IRREGULAR OPENING FREE A MASSIVE AFFAIR LORDING IT OVER THE TOWN AND SURROUNDING COUNTRY )TS REACHED BY 6IA DEL -ONTE A STREET THAT THREADS THROUGH THE TERZIERE DI -EZULE ONE OF THE THREE AREAS INTO WHICH THE MEDIEVAL TOWN WAS DIVIDED 4HE CASTLE WAS COMMISSIONED BY #ARDINAL !LBORNOZ IN THE S AND IS ATTRIBUTED TO 'ATTAPONE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE TOWNS ,OGGIA DEI 0RIORI IT FORMED A LINK IN THE CHAIN OF FORTRESSES BY WHICH !LBORNOZ SOUGHT TO REASSERT PAPAL AUTHORITY ACROSS 5MBRIA 4HE PARK AROUND THE CASTLE IS A PERFECT SPOT FOR A PICNIC AND SIESTA
6IRTUALLY THE ONLY PROPER RESTAURANT IN THE HEART OF .ARNIS OLD TOWN IS THE CLASSY ,A ,OGGIA 6ICOLO DEL #OMUNE CLOSED -ON LATE *ULY 0IZZERIE AND BARS ARE GATHERED ON 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI AND THERE ARE GOOD SNACKS AT )L &ORNO BAKERY OFF 0IAZZA DEL 0OPOLO 4HE BEST RESTAURANT AROUND LIES KM SOUTH IN THE HILLTOP HAMLET OF 3AN 6ITO -ONTE DEL 'RANO 3TRADA 'UADAMELLO CLOSED -ON MID *AN TO MID -ARCH 4UESn&RI EVES ONLY )TS SMALL AND HAS A lNE REPUTATION SO BOOKING IS USUALLY ESSENTIAL SERVICE FOOD AND AMBIENCE ALL JUSTIFY THE HIGH PRICE TAG THOUGH NOT ALL THE INNOVATIVE DISHES ARE A COMPLETE SUCCESS 4HERE ARE TWO CHEAPER TOP RATE PLACES CLOSER TO TOWN IN 4ESTACCIO KM SOUTH OF .ARNI ON THE OLD 2OME ROAD IS )L #AVALLINO 6IA &LAMINIA 2OMANA CLOSED 4UES WEEKS IN *ULY A POPULAR PLACE THATS BEEN RUN BY THE SAME FAMILY FOR THREE GENERATIONS WHILE IN WOODED HILLY COUNTRY KM SOUTH OF TOWN NEAR THE HAMLET OF -ORICONE IS $A 3ARA 3TRADA #ALVESE n A TYPICAL RURAL TRATTORIA WITH A SMALL BAR OSTERIA ALONGSIDE BOTH CLOSED 7ED
!MELIA AND AROUND !-%,)! KM WEST OF .ARNI 3CALO SITS PERCHED ON TOP OF A SUGARLOAF HILL ITS POSITION AND SURROUNDING COUNTRYSIDE THE NICEST FOR SOME DISTANCE AROUND 4HE TOWN IS AS DELIGHTFUL AS ITS SETTING ENCLOSED BY SOME OF THE OLDEST AND MIGHTI EST WALLS IN )TALY &ORMED FROM VAST POLYGONAL BLOCKS JOINED WITHOUT MORTAR THEY ARE UP TO M WIDE AND M HIGH 0ARTS ARE KNOWN TO HAVE BELONGED TO AN 5MBRIAN ACROPOLIS OF THE lFTH CENTURY "# THOUGH THE 2OMAN HISTORIAN 0LINY CLAIMED THE TOWN WAS FORMED IN THE ELEVENTH CENTURY "# THREE CENTURIES BEFORE 2OME 4HE 2OMANS TOOK ADVANTAGE OF THE FORTIlCATIONS IN "# WHEN THEY USED THE TOWN THEN NAMED !MERINA AS A STAGING POST ON THE 6IA !MERINA ONE OF NINE MILITARY ROADS LINKING %TRURIA TO THE 6IA &LAMINIA 4HEREAFTER THE TOWN WITHIN THE WALLS WAS ALL BUT DESTROYED BY 4OTILA AND LATER HISTORY FOLLOWED A PREDICTABLE COURSE THROUGH RULE BY THE NOBILITY AND SLOW DECLINE 4HE 4OWN
/2 6 ) % 4/ ! .$ 3 / 5 4 ( % 2 . 5 - "2 ) !
\ !MELIA AND AROUND
!CCESS IS THROUGH ONE OF THE FOUR ORIGINAL GATES THE MAIN ENTRY IS THE 0ORTA 2OMANA 4HE WALLS CAN BE SEEN FROM A SMALL PARK TO THE LEFT OF THE GATE AND FROM THE PLEASANT TWO KILOMETRE PATH THAT STARTS HERE AND ENCIRCLES THE TOWN )MMEDIATELY INSIDE THE GATE STANDS THE CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCESCO ALSO KNOWN AS 33 &ILIPPO E 'IACOMO ITS TYPICALLY PLAIN FACED FACADE RELIEVED BY A ROSE WIN DOW OF )NSIDE THE #APPELLA DI 3ANT!NTONIO CONTAINS SIX TOMBS BELONGING TO MEMBERS OF THE 'ERALDINI FAMILY THE CLAN THAT HELD SWAY OVER !MELIA FOR LONG PERIODS DURING THE -IDDLE !GES /NE FAMILY MEMBER !LESSANDRO n ACHIEVED FAME AS ONE OF THE KEY ADVOCATES IN THE 3PANISH COURT OF #OLUMBUSS EXPEDITION TO THE .EW 7ORLD 4HE MONUMENTS ON THE TOP RIGHT TO -ATTEO AND %LISABETTA 'ERALDINI ARE THE WORK OF !GOSTINO DI $UCCIO .EXT DOOR AT 0IAZZA !UGUSTO 6ERA IS THE EX #OLLEGIO "OCCARINI WITH A BEAUTIFUL COURT YARD AND DOUBLE LOGGIA HOME TO THE -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO DI !MELIA 0IAZZA !UGUSTO 6ERA *ULY !UG DAILY AMnPM nPM !PRILn*UNE 3EPT DAILY AMnPM nPM /CTn-ARCH &RIn3UN AMnPM nPM + 4HE STAR EXHIBIT IS A BRONZE STATUE DISCOVERED LOCALLY IN OF THE 2OMAN GENERAL .ERONE #LAUDIO $RUSO BETTER KNOWN AS 'ERMANICO A NEPHEW OF 4IBERIUS WHO DIED IN MYSTERIOUS CIRCUMSTANCES IN !$ 4HERES ALSO A PICTURE GALLERY OF PAINTINGS REMOVED FROM LOCAL CHURCHES AND PALACES &ROM 3AN &RANCESCO THE SPIRALLING 6IA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA DRAWS YOU TO 0IAZZA -ARCONI A LOVELY OLD SQUARE FROM WHERE THE STEPPED 6IA DEL $UOMO LEADS STEEPLY TO THE TOWNS SUMMIT SITE OF A PANORAMIC CATHEDRAL SQUARE ! SMALL PARK HERE OFFERS THE BEST VIEWS 4HE MOST STRIKING FEATURE OF THE $UOMO A 2OMAN ESQUE CHURCH RUINED BY "AROQUE SUPERmUITIES AND NINETEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES IS A TWELVE SIDED TOWER DATED AND CLAIMED BY SOME TO SYMBOLIZE THE !POSTLES BY OTHERS TO REPRESENT THE SIGNS OF THE ZODIAC )TS STUDDED WITH 2OMAN FRAGMENTS AND ORIGINALLY SERVED AS THE TOWNS PRINCIPAL CIVIC TOWER )NSIDE mANK ING THE SECOND CHAPEL ON THE RIGHT ARE TWO STANDARDS REPUTEDLY WON FROM THE 4URKS AT THE "ATTLE OF ,EPANTO 4HE lRST CHAPEL IN THE NORTH AISLE HOLDS THE 4OMB OF 'IOVANNI 'ERALDINI BY !GOSTINO DI $UCCIO AND THE lRST COLUMN ON THE RIGHT WAS THE ONE AGAINST WHICH 3T &ERMINA THE LOCAL PATRON SAINT IS SAID TO HAVE BEEN MARTYRED ! DISTINCTIVE OCTAGONAL CHAPEL IS ATTRIBUTED TO !NTONIO DA 3ANGALLO ITS TWO FUNERARY MONUMENTS TO )PPOLITO 3CALZA WHO PLAYED A KEY ROLE DURING THE CONSTRUCTION OF /RVIETOS $UOMO 9OU MIGHT ALSO INVESTIGATE THE UNCOVERED FRESCOES AND SINOPIE IN 3ANT!GOSTINOS SACRISTY IN 6IA #AVOUR THOUGHT TO DATE BACK TO THE YEAR SHOWING FOUR SAINTS RED STAR MOTIFS AND mORAL DECORATION !MELIAS ATTRACTION OTHERWISE IS THE
TYPICALLY 5MBRIAN MIX OF VIEWS MEDIEVAL STREETS AND CLOSE AT HAND COUNTRYSIDE 9OU COULD WALK THE SHORT DISTANCE TO -ONTE 3AN 3ALVATORE WORTHWHILE FOR ITS VIEWS AND A TINY NINTH CENTURY CHAPEL OR HEAD FOR THE NEARBY RURAL CHURCH OF -ADONNA DELLE #INQUE &ONTI SUPPOSED SITE OF A 3T &RANCIS SERMON 0RACTICALITIES
,UGNANO IN 4EVERINA
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4HE RUN ALONG THE BACK ROADS BETWEEN /RVIETO AND !MELIA POSSIBLE BY BUS IS A TREAT OFFERING PLENTY OF OAK FORESTS AND THE CHANCE TO CATCH ONE OF SOUTHERN 5MBRIAS 2OMANESQUE HIGHLIGHTS THE TWELFTH CENTURY 3ANTA -ARIA !SSUNTA IN ,5'.!./ ). 4%6%2).! &RONTED BY AN EXOTIC RESTORED PORTICO THE CHURCH HAS lNELY CARVED TWIN PULPITS AND HAS SOMEHOW HUNG ONTO A TRIPTYCH BY .ICOLÛ !LUNNO IN THE APSE 4HE INTERIOR ALSO HAS PLENTY OF LOVELY CARVED CAPITALS A RECONSTRUCTED CANTORIA AND A #OSMATESQUE mOOR WHILE THE BEAUTIFULLY PILLARED CRYPT FEATURES A lNE SCULPTED SCREEN AND FURTHER #OSMATI MARBLE WORK &ROM ,UGNANO ITS WELL WORTH HEADING TO "/-!2:/ KM SOUTH IN ,AZIO 4EN MINUTES WALK FROM THE VILLAGE IS THE 0ARCO DEI -OSTRI OPENING TIMES VARY PHONE A SIXTEENTH CENTURY THEME PARK OF FANTASY AND HORROR DEVISED BY THE HUNCH BACKED $UKE OF /RSINO THATS BECOME ONE OF THE AREAS PRIMARY TOURIST ATTRACTIONS
/2 6 ) % 4/ ! .$ 3 / 5 4 ( % 2 . 5 - "2 ) ! !MELIA AND AROUND
"USES RUN TO !MELIA FROM 4ERNI AND /RVIETO AS WELL AS FROM THE TWO NEAREST TRAIN STATIONS .ARNI 3CALO AND /RTE "ESIDE THE 0ORTA 2OMANA IS THE TOURIST OFlCE 6IA /RVIETO 4UESn3AT AMnPM nPM -ON 3UN AMnPM .OVn-ARCH CLOSES PM INFO IAT AMELIATRIT ! MINIBUS SHUTTLE RUNS BETWEEN HERE AND THE CENTRE 4HERES ALSO A LIFT FROM A LOWER CAR PARK TO THE UPPER TOWN LETTING YOU OUT NEAR THE POST OFlCE /N THE MAIN APPROACH ROAD KM FROM THE WALLS IS ONE OF TWO LOCAL HOTELS THE THREE STAR 3COGLIO DELL!QUILONE 6IA /RVIETO SCOGLIO DELLAQUILONE TISCALINETIT 4HE OTHER WITH A GOOD RESTAURANT CLOSED -ON EXCEPT *ULY !UG IS THE THREE STAR !NITA 6IA 2OMA M FROM THE TURNOFF ON THE .ARNI ROAD !NOTHER OPTION IS THE ONE STAR TEN ROOM !MERINO 6IA !MERINA AT &ORNOLE MIDWAY TO .ARNI 4HE NICEST OF THE LOT IS THE SMALL SEVEN ROOM )L #ARLENI 6IA 0ELLEGRINO #ARLENI WWWILCARLENICOM A hHISTORIC RESIDENCEv WITH PRETTY GARDEN GOOD VIEWS AND A RESTAURANT )N TOWN TOO THERE IS AN EXCELLENT YOUTH HOSTEL THE 'IUSTINIANI 0IAZZA -AZZINI -AYn3EPT MOBILE WWWOSTELLOGIUSTINIANIIT WHICH HAS DORM BEDS AT + AND TWO FOUR AND SIX BED ROOMS AND FAMILY ROOMS AT + PER PERSON )L #ARLENI IS ALSO VERY GOOD FOR INEXPENSIVE FOOD AND IN SUMMER THERES THE CHANCE TO EAT OUTSIDE 9OU MIGHT ALSO TRY THE RESTAURANT IN THE !NITA OR ,A 4AV ERNETTA PIZZERIA ON 6IA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA IN THE OLD CENTRE !T 'ABELLETTA KM NORTHEAST ON THE &OCE ROAD IS ,A 'ABELLETTA 6IA 4UDERTE CLOSED -ON LATE *ULY A LARGE COURTEOUS AND HIGHLY RATED RESTAURANT "E SURE TO INDULGE IN !MELIAS SPECIALITY A TEETH ROTTING COMBINATION OF WHITE lGS CHOPPED NUTS AND CHOCOLATE KNOWN AS lCHI GIROTTI AVAILABLE FROM LOCAL BARS
/TRICOLI 4HE MEDIEVAL STREETS AND FRESCO DOTTED CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA IN /42)#/,) KM SOUTH OF .ARNI ARE ECLIPSED BY THE REMAINS OF /TRICULUM UNRESTRICTED
ACCESS FREE A COLLECTION OF 2OMAN RUINS WITHIN EASY WALKING DISTANCE 4O REACH THEM TAKE THE MAIN ROAD THAT BYPASSES THE VILLAGE HEAD DOWNHILL FOR M AND FOLLOW THE SIGNPOSTED TRACK THAT STRIKES OFF RIGHT TOWARDS THE 4IBER 5NUSUALLY THE SETTLEMENT HAS NO WALLS HAVING SERVED MORE AS A PLEASURE GARDEN THAN A DEFENSIVE SITE IT WAS BUILT AS A SORT OF HOLIDAY VILLAGE FOR 2OMES HOI POLLOI WHO CRUISED IN BY BOAT ON THE 4IBER 4HE COLONY IS STILL LARGELY UNEXCAVATED AND DRAPED IN CLINGING UNDERGROWTH THE BEST OF THE VISIBLE REMAINS ARE A PARTLY BURIED AMPHITHEATRE A SUCCESSION OF TWIN LEVEL ARCHES AND THE RAMBLING RUINS OF SOME SMALL VILLAS CISTERNS AND BATHHOUSES 4URNER STOPPED OFF HERE TO PAINT THE SCENE A WORK NOW IN THE 4ATE 'ALLERY AND IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY -ONTAIGNE DESCRIBED THE SPOT AS hINlNITELY PLEASANTv )T MAY NOT STAY THAT WAY FOR MUCH LONGER SO FAR NO MORE THAN A TRICKLE OF TOURISTS VISIT BUT PLANS TO MAKE THIS AN ARCHEOLOGICAL PARK MEAN IT MAY BE HEADED FOR THE BIG TIME )N THE MEANTIME THERES A SMALL -USEO !NTIQUARIUM IN THE VILLAGE 6IA 6ITTORIO %MANUELE n !PRILn3EPT 3AT 3UN AMnPM nPM /CTn-ARCH 3AT 3UN AMnPM FREE WITH A SMALL COLLECTION OF lNDS FROM THE SITE 9OU CAN lND ROOMS IN THE VILLAGE AT THE ONE STAR SEVEN ROOM 5MBRIA 6IA 2OMA
#ARSULAE AND AROUND /2 6 ) % 4/ ! .$ 3 / 5 4 ( % 2 . 5 - "2 ) !
\ #ARSULAE AND AROUND
4HE HILLS mANKING THE 33BIS MAIN ROAD NORTH OF .ARNI AND THE PARALLEL ROAD AND RAIL LINE FROM 4ERNI HARBOUR A NUMBER OF TYPICAL 5MBRIAN VILLAGES OF WHICH THE MOST SUBSTANTIAL IS #%3) KM NORTHWEST OF 4ERNI AND KNOWN AS LA RINGHIERA DELLA VALLE 4ERNANA hTHE BALCONY OF THE 4ERNI VALLEYv )N ADDITION TO A HANDFUL OF CHURCHES AND A RUINED FORT IT OFFERS A lNE WALK TO THE CHURCH OF 3ANT%RASMO AND ON TO THE SUMMIT OF -ONTE 4ORRE -AGGIORE 4HE BUILDING OF THE 6IA &LAMINIA FROM 2OME TO !NCONA CONlRMED THIS REGIONS IMPORTANCE AS THE CROSSROADS OF )TALY COLONIES ALONG ITS ROUTE WERE TO EVOLVE INTO MODERN DAY .ARNI 4ERNI 3POLETO AND 3PELLO 3OME SETTLEMENTS HOWEVER SUCH AS #!235,!% KM NORTH OF 4ERNI WERE ABANDONED AFTER EARTHQUAKES AND CIVIL WAR )N ITS DAY THIS PARTICULAR PILE OF STONES WAS KNOWN AS THE 0OMPEII OF CENTRAL )TALY ITS BEAUTY PRAISED BY BOTH 4ACITUS AND 0LINY THE 9OUNGER 4O GET THERE TAKE THE lRST JUNCTION FOR 3AN 'EMINI &ONTE ON THE MAIN 4ODIn4ERNI ROAD IE BEFORE THE TUNNEL HEADING SOUTH AND THEN JUST BEFORE 3AN 'EMINI &ONTE NOT BEFORE PLAIN 3AN 'EMINI TAKE THE DUSTY SIGNPOSTED TRACK TO THE RUINS THE LARGEST 2OMAN SITE IN 5MBRIA 4HE SITE DAILY !PRILn3EPT AMnPM /CTn-ARCH AMnPM FREE IS TODAY DOMINATED BY A CHURCH 3AN $AMIANO MADE FROM MATERIALS lLCHED FROM THE RUINS OTHER PRECIOUS MARBLES WENT TO BUILD LOCAL HOUSES "EHIND THE CHURCH YOU CAN FOLLOW A LONG STRETCH OF THE ORIGINAL 6IA &LAMINIA COMPLETE WITH GROOVES MADE BY CHARIOTS TO A SUBSTANTIAL ARCHED GATEWAY BUILT BY 4RAJAN BEYOND THE ARCH ON THE LEFT IS A LARGE SQUARE 2OMAN TOMB 7ALKING BACK ON THE &LAMINIA YOULL SEE THE SITE OF THE "ASILICA &ORENSE LAW COURTS OFF TO THE LEFT BEHIND IT ACROSS A MODERN LANE RISE THE REMNANTS OF THE AMPHITHEATRE BUILT IN THE HOLLOW OF A NATURAL DEPRESSION "EHIND THE ARENA IS A THEATRE ITS ORCHESTRA STILL IMPRESSIVELY INTACT AND TO ITS REAR A SPREAD OF RUINS STILL AWAITING EXCAVATION "ACK ACROSS THE SITE BEHIND 3AN $AMIANO AND THE &LAMINIA ARE THE FORUM COMPOSED OF NUMEROUS LOW WALLS AND THE VAGUE OUTLINES OF BATHS A WELL AND TWO TEMPLES
.ORTH TO 4ODI
0/24!2)! KM NORTH OF #ARSULAE IS AN INVITING LOOKING VILLAGE CLEARLY VISIBLE FROM THE 33BIS STRAGGLING ALONG THE CLIFFS ON THE EASTERN SIDE OF THE VAL LEY )TS WORTH DRIVING UP FOR BIRDS EYE VIEWS OVER THE VALLEY 4O THE WEST 3!. '%-).) AND !#15!30!24! ARE BOTH SPA TOWNS EACH WITH PASSABLE MEDI EVAL CENTRES THE CHURCHES OF 3AN &RANCESCO AND 3AN .ICOLÛ IN THE FORMER ARE THE MAIN DRAWS 3AN 'EMINI HAS THE TWO STAR HOTEL $UOMO 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO WWWGRUPPOBACUSCOM CURRENTLY BEING ADDED TO AND IMPROVED BUT OPEN IT WILL EMERGE AS A FOUR STAR WITH SPA IN 4HE HIGH WOODED HILLS WEST OF !CQUASPARTA SHELTER A HANDFUL OF WINDBLOWN HAMLETS AMID EMPTY COUNTRY n THIS IS A REAL STRETCH OF UNKNOWN 5MBRIA $RIV ING ROUND THE HILLS THOUGH REWARDING IS A SLOW BUSINESS IF YOURE GOING WEST THERES NO PETROL ALMOST UNTIL YOU REACH /RVIETO -/.4%.%2/ HAS THE BEST OF THE MANY CASTLES IN THE AREA AND VIRTUALLY EVERY OTHER VILLAGE BOASTS A 2OMANESQUE CHURCH THE BEST ARE 3ANTA -ARIA AT 15!$2%,,) AND 3AN -ARTINO AND 3ANTA 6ITTORIANA IN $5.2/""! )N !6)',)!./ IS THE TWO STAR HOTEL !NTICA ,ANTERNA 6IA -ATTEOTTI WWW ANTICALANTERNAIT WHICH ALSO HAS A DECENT RESTAURANT CLOSED 4UES
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4/$) PROVIDES A GRAPHIC ILLUSTRATION OF WHAT HAS HAPPENED IN MUCH OF 5MBRIA OVER THE LAST TWO DECADES /NCE A SLEEPY SIMPLE AGRICULTURAL CENTRE IT BECAME A FAVOURED RETREAT FOR FOREIGN EXPATS AND 2OMES ARTS AND MEDIA TYPES ATTRACTED AS MUCH BY THE TOWNS CONSIDERABLE RUSTIC CHARMS AS ITS RELATIVE PROXIMITY TO THE )TALIAN CAPITAL 4HESE DAYS THE TRANSFORMATION IS ALL BUT COMPLETE 4ODI IS lRMLY ON THE TOURIST TRAIL AND HAS BEEN SMARTENED UP TO WITHIN A WHISKER OF ITS LIFE 'ENTRIlCATION IS MANIFEST IN A SCATTERING OF ESTATE AGENTS SHUTTERED HOLI DAY HOMES AND THE REVAMPED AND DECIDEDLY HIGH PROlLE 4ODI &ESTIVAL n TEN DAYS OF MUSIC BALLET AND OTHER ARTS AT THE BEGINNING OF 3EPTEMBER 4HE lNAL STRAW CAME WHEN AN !MERICAN UNIVERSITY STUDY PROCLAIMED IT THE WORLDS MOST AMENABLE PLACE IN WHICH TO LIVE THE FEW REMAINING UNRESTORED FARMHOUSES AND VILLAS WERE DULY SNAPPED UP $ONT BE PUT OFF FOR THE TOWN IS STILL UNMISSABLE WITH MUCH CHARM AND MANY SIGHTS NOTABLY AN IMPRESSIVE 0IAZZA DEL 0OPOLO AND THE CHURCHES OF 3AN &ORTUNATO AND 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA #ONSOLAZIONE THOUGH PERHAPS WHAT LINGERS MOST IN THE MEMORY IS ITS POSITION M UP A STUNNING AND DAUNTING PROSPECT FROM BELOW )RON !GE REMAINS SUGGEST SOME THREE THOUSAND YEARS OF CONTINUAL HABITATION 4RADITION HAS IT THE 5MBRIAN TOWN WAS BUILT WHERE AN EAGLE DROPPED A TABLE CLOTH SNATCHED FROM A LOCAL FAMILY n HENCE THE EAGLE AND CLOTH IN THE TOWNS INSIGNIA -ORE CERTAIN IS THE %TRUSCAN HERITAGE COINS BEARING THE NAME 4UTARE hBORDERv SUGGEST A TOWN OF SOME INDEPENDENCE DURING PRE 2OMAN RULE PROBABLY ONE OF SEVERAL OUTPOSTS USED BY THE %TRUSCANS TO DEFEND THEIR FRONTIER ALONG THE 4IBER .ECROPOLISES ALL ROUND 4ODI HAVE YIELDED SOME OF THE lNEST %TRUSCAN TREASURES MOST OF THEM n INCLUDING A FAMOUS BRONZE STATUE OF -ARS n SHIPPED OFF TO 2OME !NCIENT 2OMAN RULE CAME IN "# AND WENT LEAV ING LITTLE EXCEPT A SECOND SET OF WALLS AND INDISTINCT RUINS 4HE TOWNS HEYDAY WAS THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY WHEN AS A FREE COMUNE n ONE OF 5MBRIAS lRST n IT MANAGED TO ANNEX !MELIA AND 4ERNI HOLD ITS OWN IN SKIRMISHES WITH 3POLETO .ARNI AND /RVIETO AND BUILD A THIRD SET OF WALLS AND CROP OF CIVIC PALACES 4HE TWO SMALL EAGLETS UNDER THE WINGS OF THE 4ODI EAGLE ON SOME OF THE TOWNS COATS
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!CCESS TO 4ODI BY PUBLIC TRANSPORT CAN BE A HEADACHE 4HE TOWN HAS TWO TRAIN STATIONS ON THE LINE BETWEEN 4ERNI KM AND 0ERUGIA KM BUT BOTH ARE IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE AND CONNECTING BUSES CAN INVOLVE A LONGISH WAIT 4HE 0ONTE 2IO STATION KM DISTANT IS MARGINALLY CLOSER AND HAS A MORE RELIABLE SHUTTLE MINIBUS TO THE OLD TOWN ,INEA # AROUND DAILY -ONn3AT TICKETS FROM THE STATION TICKET OFlCE THE OTHER STATION IS 0ONTE .AIA "USES BACK TO 0ONTE 2IO STATION LEAVE FROM 0IAZZA *ACOPONE n BETWEEN 0IAZZA DEL 0OPOLO AND 3AN &ORTUNATO n lFTEEN MINUTES BEFORE EACH TRAIN DEPARTURE &ROM 0ERUGIA BUSES ARE MORE CONVENIENT THERE ARE AROUND SIX DAILY -ONn3AT MORE ON SCHOOL DAYS THE LAST RETURN BUS LEAVING AT PM -OST STOP IN 0IAZZALE DELLA #ONSOLAZIONE NEXT TO 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA #ONSOLAZIONE &ROM HERE TO THE CENTRE YOU CAN TAKE AN ORANGE MINIBUS ,INEA ! OR FOLLOW THE MARKED FOOTPATH THAT STRIKES OFF 6IALE DELLA #ONSOLAZIONE M BEYOND THE CORNER ON THE RIGHT "UY TICKETS FOR THE MINIBUSES AND LONG HAUL BUSES FROM THE UNLIKELY LOOKING STALL THAT SELLS NUTS AND SNACKS 3OME INTER TOWN BUSES n PLUS A ONCE DAILY SERVICE TO 2OME n CONTINUE TO AND LEAVE FROM 0IAZZA *ACOPONE 'ET TICKETS AND INFORMA TION FROM THE FRUIT SHOP IN THE PIAZZA NEXT TO THE 2ISTORANTE *ACOPONE "Y CAR YOULL BE HARD PRESSED TO NAVIGATE 4ODIS NARROW STREETS AND ONE WAY SYSTEM NEVER MIND lND A CENTRAL PARKING PLACE 4HE BEST PLAN IS TO LEAVE YOUR
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CAR OUTSIDE THE WALLS AT 0ORTA 0ERUGINA 0IAZZALE DELLA #ONSOLAZIONE OR 0ORTA 2OMANA 4HERE ARE LIMITED PAID PLACES IN 0IAZZA DEL -ERCATO 6ECCHIO 4ODIS TOURIST OFlCE IS IN THE SOUTHEAST CORNER OF THE MAIN SQUARE AT 0IAZZA DEL 0OPOLO !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM nPM .OVn-ARCH -ONn3AT AMnPM n 3UN AMnPM INFO IATTODIPGIT (OTELS
DISTRICT TEN MINUTES RELATIVELY UNPLEASANT WALK FROM 0ORTA 2OMANA 6ILLA ,UISA 6IA !NGELO #ORTESI WWWVILLALUISAIT 2ELATIVELY POSH IF UNINSPIRINGLY MODERN THREE STAR THAT BOASTS A PLEASANT GARDEN BUT HAS A FAR FROM CENTRAL LOCA TION A SHORT DISTANCE BEYOND THE 4UDER
""S AND ROOMS ,E 6ETRATE 6IA ' -ATTEOTTI LEONHARD VIRGILIOIT 4ODIS ONLY IN TOWN BED AND BREAKFAST OPTION NEAR THE BOTTOM OF THE HILL TOWARDS THE 0ORTA 2OMANA JUST ONE DOUBLE ROOM WITH PRIVATE BATHROOM 3AN ,ORENZO 4RE 6IA 3AN ,ORENZO 6ERY COMFORTABLE ROOMS IN A PLEASANTLY AND ELEGANTLY FURNISHED TOWN HOUSE IN THE STREET PARALLEL TO 6IA DEL $UOMO JUST EAST OF THE CATHEDRAL
2ELIGIOUS HOUSES #ONVENTO DI -ONTESANTO 6IALE -ONTESANTO MONTESANTO LIBEROIT /CCA SIONALLY ACCEPTS GUESTS IN EIGHTEEN DOUBLE ROOMS #HECK AVAILABILITY IN ADVANCE #ONVENTO 3ACRO #UORE 6IA #ESIA (AS lVE THREE AND FOUR BED ROOMS AT AROUND + PERSON #HECK AVAILABILITY 3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATA 6IA 3AN "IAGIO SMRTODI LIBEROIT -ONASTERY WITH ROOMS FOR WOMEN COUPLES AND FAMILIES FROM + PER PERSON #HECK AVAILABILITY
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!GRICOLA 4ODINI #OLLEVALENZA /NE OF THE NUMEROUS AGRITURISMO PLACES NEAR 4ODI 4HREE ROOM OPTION KM SOUTHEAST OF 4ODI ON THE -ASSA -ARTANA ROAD WHERE THE HIGH RATES BUY YOU SWIMMING RIDING ARCHERY AND OTHER DIVERSIONS
"RAMANTE 6IA /RVIETANA WWWHOTELBRAMANTEIT 4HIS LONG ESTABLISHED BUT RATHER FADED FOUR STAR HOTEL A CONVERTED MEDIEVAL CONVENT BEYOND 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA #ONSOLAZIONE HAD ITS THUNDER STOLEN BY THE OPENING OF THE &ONTE #ESIA )TS ONLY ADVANTAGES ARE EASIER PARKING SLIGHTLY AIRIER ROOMS AND A POOL AND TENNIS COURTS LOOKING OVER THE 5MBRIAN COUNTRYSIDE &ONTE #ESIA 6IA ,ORENZO ,EONI WWWFONTECESIAIT $El NITE lRST CHOICE IN 4ODI IF lNANCES ALLOW BEAUTIFUL CONVERTED PALAZZO ON SEVERAL LEVELS WITH EXCELLENT RESTAURANT GOOD SERVICE AND VERY COMFORTABLE ROOMS THE CENTRAL FOUR STAR IS ALSO THE ONLY ONE OF 4ODIS HOTELS WITHIN THE WALLS 2ELAIS 4ODINI ,OCALITÌ #OLLEVALENZA WWWRELAISTODINICOM ! GLORIOUS RESTORED THIRTEENTH CENTURY HILLTOP CASTLE KM SOUTH OF 4ODI BEAUTIFULLY APPOINTED WITH JUST TWELVE ROOMS AND PERIOD lTTINGS ANTIQUES OIL PAINTINGS PASTEL COLOUR SCHEME WOOD AND STONE mOORS AND WALLS &ACILITIES INCLUDE TENNIS COURTS AND A SWIMMING POOL 4UDER 6IA -AESTÌ DEI ,OMBARDI WWWHOTELTUDERCOM &UNC TIONAL THREE STAR IN AN UNINSPIRING MODERN BUILT UP
4HE 4OWN !LL 4ODIS MAIN SIGHTS ARE WITHIN A FEW MINUTES WALK OF EACH OTHER THOUGH THE SOUTHEAST PART OF THE TOWN AROUND 0ORTA 2OMANA INVOLVES A LONG DOWNHILL HIKE AS DOES THE WALK TO 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA #ONSOLAZIONE &ROM THE BUS TERMINUS THE MINIBUS DROPS YOU AT THE CENTRAL 0IAZZA DEL 0OPOLO HOME TO THE CATHEDRAL AND AN OUTSTANDING MUSEUM WALKING UP VIA THE FOOTPATH LEAVES YOU IN THE MUNICIPAL GARDENS NEAR THE CHURCH OF 3AN &ORTUNATO ,IKE MANY A HILL TOWN RANDOM EXPLORATION IS ONE OF 4ODIS PLEASURES
! COMBINED TICKET + IS AVAILABLE FOR THE -USEO 0INACOTECA DI 4ODI THE #ISTERNE 2OMANE AND THE CAMPANILE OF 3AN &ORTUNATO (OWEVER NOTE THAT THIS REPRESENTS ONLY A VERY MODEST SAVING OVER INDIVIDUAL TICKETS
0IAZZA DEL 0OPOLO
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4HE 0IAZZA DEL 0OPOLO IS OFTEN DESCRIBED AS THE MOST PERFECT MEDIEVAL PIAZZA IN )TALY n AND WITH FULL JUSTICE EVEN IF THE CARS DETRACT SLIGHTLY FROM THE OVERALL EFFECT &LANKED BY A RANGE OF PALAZZI AND A SUPERB $UOMO ITS ENOUGH TO TAKE THE BREATH AWAY HOWEVER MANY OTHER )TALIAN HILL TOWNS YOUVE SEEN /RIGINALLY THE SITE OF THE 2OMAN FORUM IT IS BUILT ABOVE A SURVIVING COMPLEX OF 2OMAN CISTERNS SEE P 4HE $UOMO DAILY SUMMER AMnPM nPM WINTER AMn PM nPM FREE ATOP A BROAD mIGHT OF STEPS ADDED IN REPRESENTS A MERGING OF THE LAST OF THE 2OMANESQUE AND THE lRST OF THE 'OTHIC FORMS lLTERING IN FROM &RANCE IN THE EARLY FOURTEENTH CENTURY #ONSTRUCTION STARTED AT THE BEGINNING OF THE TWELFTH CENTURY ON THE SITE OF A 2OMAN TEMPLE TO !POLLO AND CONTINUED INTERMITTENTLY UNTIL THE SEVENTEENTH 4HE SQUARE THREE TIERED FACADE RECENTLY RESTORED IS INSPIRED SIMPLICITY WITH JUST A SUMPTU OUS ROSE WINDOW AND ORNATELY CARVED COMPOSITE DOORWAY AND TO EMBELLISH THE PINK WEATHERED MARBLE n THE CLASSIC EXAMPLE OF A FORM FOUND ALL OVER 5MBRIA AND THE !BRUZZO 4HE EXTERIOR SIDES OF THE CHURCH ARE MORE COMPLICATED AND ITS WORTH WALKING DOWN ADJOINING SIDE STREETS FOR GLIMPSES OF ARCHES WINDOWS AND BULGING BUTTRESSES 4HE INTERIOR HAS SOME IMPRESSIVE NINETEENTH CENTURY STAINED GLASS IN THE ARCHED RIGHT HAND AISLE A LOVELY FONT AN EXQUISITE FOURTEENTH CENTURY -ADONNA AND #HILD AND AT THE END OF THE AISLE A FETCHING ALTARPIECE BY 0ERUGI NOS FOLLOWER 'IANNICOLO DI 0AOLO .OTHING HOWEVER MATCHES THE CHOIR CARVED WITH INCREDIBLE DELICACY AND PRECISION BY A LOCAL FATHER AND SON TEAM BETWEEN AND A NICE TOUCH ARE THE PANELS AT mOOR LEVEL NEAR THE FRONT WHICH DEPICT THE TOOLS USED TO CARVE THE PIECE n THOUGH YOU MAY HAVE TO RUN THE GAUNTLET OF CHURCH ATTENDANTS TO GET A CLOSE LOOK 4HE REAR WEST WALL IS DEFACED BY A DREADFUL SIXTEENTH CENTURY ,AST *UDGEMENT DERIVED FROM -ICHELANGELOS 3ISTINE #HAPEL FRESCO 5NDERGROUND THERES A MILDLY INTERESTING CRYPT CUM PASSAGEWAY + ENTERED FROM THE TOP OF THE NORTH AISLE SCATTERED WITH 2OMAN AND POSSIBLY %TRUSCAN FRAGMENTS PAY AT THE LITTLE WOODEN KIOSK MIDWAY DOWN THE NORTH LEFT AISLE 4HE LITTLE CELLS IN THE CORRIDOR WERE USED AS TOMBS UNTIL THE NINETEENTH CENTURY 4HE PIAZZAS OTHER KEY BUILDINGS ARE A TRIO OF THIRTEENTH CENTURY PUBLIC PALACES SQUARED OFF NEAR THE $UOMO IN PROVOCATIVE FASHION n THE COMUNES AIM BEING TO PUT ONE OVER ON THE #HURCH 4HE 0ALAZZO DEL #APITANO BUILT AROUND AND THE ADJOINING 0ALAZZO DEL 0OPOLO DATING FROM ONE OF )TALYS EARLIEST CIVIC PALACES ARE THE MOST PROMINENT THANKS MAINLY TO THEIR EXTERNAL STAIRCASE WHICH LOOKS LIKE THE SET OF A THOUSAND " MOVIE SWORDlGHTS 3EVERAL lLMS HAVE IN FACT BEEN SHOT IN 4ODI WHICH OFFERS THE TWIN ATTRACTIONS OF SCENOGRAPHIC AUTHENTICITY AND PROXIMITY TO #INECITTÌ )TALYS MAJOR lLM STUDIOS ACROSS THE BORDER IN ,AZIO -OST NOTABLE WAS THE ILL FATED #LEOPATRA WITH %LIZABETH 4AYLOR 4HE UPPER mOOR OF THE 0ALAZZO DEL #APITANO HOUSES THE TOWNS SUPERB MODERN MUSEUM THE -USEO 0INACOTECA DI 4ODI 4UESn3UN !PRILn/CT AMn PM nPM .OVn-ARCH AMnPM nPM OPEN -ON ON PUBLIC HOLIDAYS + WHICH BRILLIANTLY WEAVES AN OPEN PLAN SEQUENCE OF ROOMS INTO THE EXISTING MEDIEVAL STRUCTURE ! GUIDE IN %NGLISH TO BUY OR BOR ROW IS USUALLY AVAILABLE AT THE TICKET DESK WHICH HAS A WINDOW WITH A FABULOUS VIEW "EFORE ENTERING THE GALLERY PROPER TAKE A LOOK AT THE POIGNANT PAINTING BY THE TICKET DESK OF 4ODI NEAR THE 0ORTA 2OMANA AS IT APPEARED IN THE EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURY THE WALLS ARE COMPLETELY UNSULLIED BY MODERN BUILDING THE ONLY INCONGRUOUS DETAIL A SINGLE VERY OLD LOOKING MOTOR CAR
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5 &RESCOED SALON IN THE -USEO 0INACOTECA DI 4ODI
4HE lRST AREA OF THE MUSEUM THE -USEO DELLA #ITTÌ DELVES INTO 4ODIS HIS TORY WITH LOTS OF INDIVIDUALLY INTERESTING PAINTINGS AND ARTEFACTS ,OOK OUT IN PARTICULAR IN 3ECTION )6 FOR THE LARGE PAINTING OF 4ODIS PATRON SAINTS AND PROTECTORS INCLUDING &ORTUNATO DEFENDING THE TOWN FROM THE 'OTHS BY 0IETRO 0AOLO 3ENSINI 4ODIS "OOK OF -ARTYRS LISTS NO FEWER THAN SAINTS AND MARTYRS WHO HAD SOME SORT OF CONNECTION WITH THE TOWN PLUS 3ERVANTS OF 'OD ONLY lVE WERE ELEVATED TO THE POSITION OF PATRON SAINTS n &ORTUNATO #ALLISTO #ASSIANO $EGNA AND 2OMANA !LONG THE WALL TO THE LEFT ARE SEVERAL EXTREMELY OLD STATUES AND CARVINGS SOME GOING BACK TO THE EIGHTH CENTURY OPPOSITE AN EYE CATCHING PAINTING DEPICTING VARIOUS BRANCHES OF THE "ENEDETTONI FAMILY SIN GLED OUT BECAUSE THEY WERE DESCENDANTS OF *ACOPONE DA 4ODI SEE BOX ON P
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\ 4ODI
4HIS AREAS GREATEST ODDITY IS THE SADDLE OF !NITA 'ARIBALDI LEFT BEHIND WHEN SHE PASSED THROUGH THE TOWN IN AN ADVANCED STATE OF PREGNANCY AND COULD NO LONGER BEAR THE DISCOMFORT IT CAUSED HER ITS RATHER HIDDEN IMMEDIATELY BY THE EXIT AS YOU LEAVE THE h-USEO DELLA #ITTÌv PART OF THE GALLERY 4HE SECTIONS THAT FOLLOW ARE DEVOTED TO ARCHEOLOGY COINS AND MEDALS INCLUD ING AN IMPORTANT COLLECTION OF 2EPUBLICAN AND )MPERIAL ERA 2OMAN COINS MEDALLIONS AND FABRICS )N MANY CASES THE ROOMS ARE MORE ALLURING THAN THEIR EXHIBITS PARTICULARLY THE LOVELY SALON DEVOTED TO CERAMICS WHICH WAS FRESCOED IN ON THE ORDERS OF THE TOWNS PRIORS WHEN IT BECAME THEIR HOME MOST OF THE SURVIVING PICTURES DATE FROM THE SEVENTEENTH TO THE TWENTIETH CENTURIES AND INCLUDE PORTRAITS OF ILLUSTRIOUS 4ODIANS AND A MAP BY 3ENSIN OF THE TERRI TORY ONCE CONTROLLED BY THE TOWN .UMEROUS INDIVIDUAL EXHIBITS MERIT A CLOSER LOOK NONE MORE SO THAN THE MUSEUMS STAR PAINTING THE SUMPTUOUS #ORONA TION OF THE 6IRGIN BY ,O 3PAGNA WHICH GREETS YOU AS YOU WALK INTO THE PICTURE GALLERY 4HE PREDELLA OF THE PAINTING WAS APPROPRIATED BY .APOLEON IN AND NOW RESIDES SADLY IN THE ,OUVRE %LSEWHERE IN THE PIAZZA OUTSIDE THE RESTORED 0ALAZZO DEI 0RIORI BUILT BETWEEN AND WAS THE SEAT OF 4ODIS VARIOUS RULERS AND IS NOW THE TOWN HALL n NOTE THE EAGLE COAT OF ARMS COMPLETE WITH TABLECLOTH IF YOU CAN LOOK LIKE YOURE ON COUNCIL BUSINESS YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO PEEK INSIDE ! RECENTLY OPENED MINOR ATTRACTION ON THE WEST SIDE OF THE PIAZZA SIGNED OFF THE SQUARE DOWN A SMALL ALLEY ARE THE #ISTERNE 2OMANE !PRILn/CT 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM OPEN -ONDAY ON PUBLIC HOLIDAYS .OVn-ARCH 3AT 3UN PUBLIC HOLIDAYS AMnnPM + THE WELL PRESERVED REMAINS OF THE COLOSSAL 2OMAN AND PROBABLY %TRUSCAN CISTERNS BENEATH THE PIAZZA 4HERE ISNT MUCH TO SEE BUT THE CISTERNS SCALE GRAPHICALLY ILLUSTRATES THE 2OMANS ENGINEERING ACUMEN 4HE BEST PLACE TO ENJOY THE PIAZZAS STREETLIFE ABOVE GROUND IS FROM THE BAR DOWN ON ITS SOUTHWEST CORNER A LOCALS LOCAL IN CONTRAST TO THE SMARTER PLACE MIDWAY DOWN THE PIAZZAS WESTERN SIDE n THOUGH THE LATTER DOES A GOOD LINE IN SANDWICHES AND ENJOYS MORE SUNSHINE &INALLY FOR SOME WONDERFUL VIEWS OF THE SURROUNDING COUNTRYSIDE WANDER TO 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI JUST ALONGSIDE THE SQUARE 4HE STATUE HERE IS OF 'IUSEPPE 'ARIBALDI WHILE THE SCENICALLY PERFECT CYPRESS IS SUPPOSED TO HAVE BEEN PLANTED TO CELEBRATE 'ARIBALDIS VISIT TO 4ODI WITH HIS WIFE SEE ABOVE IN 3AN &ORTUNATO
4HE SINGLE MOST CELEBRATED SITE AFTER THE PIAZZA IS THE ENORMOUS 3AN &ORTUNATO SUMMER DAILY AMnPM nPM WINTER 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM FREE SET ABOVE SOME HALF HEARTED GARDENS A STROLL SOUTH OF THE PIAZZA )TS DISPROPORTIONATE SIZE IS TESTIMONY TO 4ODIS MEDIEVAL WEALTH AND THE MESSY LOOKING AND SQUAT FACADE n AN AMALGAM OF 2OMANESQUE AND 'OTHIC n REmECTS THE TIME IT TOOK TO BUILD THE CHURCH n ,ORENZO -AITANI WAS COMMISSIONED TO DECORATE THE FACADE AS HE DID /RVIETOS $UOMO AND THE STORY GOES THAT THE BURGH ERS OF THAT TOWN UNABLE TO STOMACH THE PROSPECT OF A RIVAL CHURCH TOOK OUT A CONTRACT ON HIS LIFE )F TRUE IT WAS MONEY SPENT TOO LATE BECAUSE HIS mORID DOORWAY STANDS GOOD COMPARISON WITH THAT IN /RVIETO ALL ARCHED SWIRLS AND CARVED CRAZINESS 4HE !NNUNCIATE ANGEL IN THE NICHE TO THE LEFT OF THE PORTICO IS OUTSTANDING AND HAS BEEN ATTRIBUTED TO THE 3IENESE SCULPTOR *ACOPO DELLA 1UERCIA ,OOK OUT FOR SOME OF THE SMALLER DETAILS ESPECIALLY THE TINY lGURES n SMALL JOKES YOU SUSPECT ON THE PART OF THE SCULPTOR n WHICH ARE HIDDEN IN THE TWISTS OF THE PORTALS SPIRAL COLUMNS 4HE LIGHT AIRY INTERIOR RECENTLY HIGHLIGHTED BY CLEANING AND SEVERAL CONTRO VERSIAL COATS OF WHITEWASH MARKS THE PINNACLE OF THE 5MBRIAN 'OTHIC TRADITION
*ACOPONE DA 4ODI
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OF LARGE VAULTED CHURCHES 4HE STYLE WAS BASED ON THE SMALLER 'ERMAN INmUENCED hBARNv CHURCHES COMMON IN 4USCANY DISTINGUISHED n AS HERE n BY A SINGLE LOW PITCHED ROOF WITH NAVES AND AISLES OF EQUAL HEIGHT 3AN $OMENICO IN 0ERUGIA IS ANOTHER LESS SUCCESSFUL EXAMPLE .OTE THE GREY STONE BRACKETS ADDED TO COR RECT THE INCREASINGLY ALARMING LEAN OF THE SUPPORTING PILASTERS 4HE TWO BATTERED STOUPS MAY DATE FROM AN EARLIER CHURCH ON THE SITE !T THE REAR SITS AN EXCELLENT
/2 6 ) % 4/ ! .$ 3 / 5 4 ( % 2 . 5 - "2 ) ! 4ODI
&RA *ACOMO DEI "ENEDETTI KNOWN TO ALL AS *ACOPONE WAS AMONG )TALYS LEADING MEDIEVAL POETS A TRENCHANT CRITIC OF THE PAPACY AND THE PROBABLE AUTHOR OF WHAT BECAME ONE OF #HRISTENDOMS MOST FAMOUS CAROLS THE 3TABAT -ATER $OLOROSA &OR MUCH OF HIS LIFE HE DISPLAYED AN ECCENTRICITY PERHAPS UNEQUALLED BY ANY OF )TALYS CRAZED MEDIEVAL MYSTICS "ORN IN 4ODI IN HE PURSUED THE LIFE OF DECADENCE THAT SEEMS THE BIRTHRIGHT OF THOSE ULTIMATELY DESTINED FOR SAINTHOOD n GAMBLING FEASTING CAVORTING IN lNE CLOTHES AND RARELY LEVERING HIMSELF OUT OF BED BEFORE MIDDAY !FTER TRAINING AS A LAWYER IN "OLOGNA HOWEVER HE RETURNED TO 4ODI A RESPECTABLE ATTORNEY !GED ABOUT HE MARRIED 6ANNA A YOUNG RICH AND DEEPLY DEVOUT MEMBER OF THE 5MBRIAN ARISTOCRACY ! YEAR AFTER THE MARRIAGE 6ANNA WAS ATTENDING A LOCAL PUBLIC FESTIVAL WHEN THE PLATFORM ON WHICH SHE WAS SITTING GAVE WAY )NJURED SHE WAS CAR RIED FROM THE SCENE BY *ACOPONE WHO TEARING AWAY HER lNE CLOTHES FOUND SHE HAD BEEN WEARING A HAIR SHIRT BENEATH HER HAUTE COUTURE 3ECONDS LATER SHE DIED IN HIS ARMS *ACOPONE WAS INCONSOLABLE SHOCKED AT BOTH 6ANNAS DEATH AND HIS IGNORANCE OF HER DEEP DEVOTION 4HE EXPERIENCE BECAME THE CATALYST FOR HIS OWN CONVERSION AND DELIBERATE ABASEMENT (E SOLD HIS HOUSE GAVE HIS WEALTH TO THE POOR DISTANCED HIMSELF FROM FAMILY AND FRIENDS AND TRAMPED 4ODIS STREETS DRESSED IN RAGS OFTEN SPENDING DAYS ON ALL FOURS (E APPEARED AT A NIECES WEDDING DRESSED IN TAR AND FEATHERS (E ADDED SOIL AND WORMWOOD TO HIS FOOD TO MAKE IT REPUGNANT AND DEMANDED TO BE GIVEN THE MOST MENIAL TASKS (E ALSO REQUESTED THAT WHEN HE DIED HIS hGRAVEv SHOULD BE THE BELLY OF A WOLF SO THAT HIS hRELICSv WOULD BE MERELY EXCRE MENT !PPLYING TO JOIN THE &RANCISCANS WHO HAD RECENTLY BEEN ESTABLISHED IN 4ODI BY &RANCIS HIMSELF HE WAS REJECTED BECAUSE HIS BEHAVIOUR WAS DEEMED TOO EXTREME EVEN BY THE &RANCISCANS EXACTING STANDARDS IT WAS TO BE MANY YEARS BEFORE THEY ALLOWED HIM INTO THEIR COMMUNITY 3PURNED *ACOPONE WANDERED 5MBRIAS COUNTRYSIDE FOR A DECADE DELIBERATELY REMAINING COLD HUNGRY THIRSTY AND DIRTY TO ATONE FOR HIS SINS (E ALSO BEGAN TO COM POSE THE POEMS AND LAUDE HYMNS FOR WHICH HE WAS TO BECOME FAMOUS WRITING IN ALL AND BECOMING IN THE WORDS OF ONE MODERN AUTHORITY hTHE MOST POPULAR AND THE MOST INSPIRED OF THE POETS OF THE &RANCISCAN TRADITIONv (E ALSO WROTE THE INmUENTIAL $ONNA DEL 0ARADISO A POWERFUL DIALOGUE ON THE GRIEF OF THE 6IRGIN AT THE #RUCIlXION 4HE WORK SPREAD THROUGHOUT )TALY AND WOULD INSPIRE THE 0ASSION PLAYS SOME OF THE COUNTRYS lRST THEATRICAL CREATIONS SINCE THE 2OMANS *ACOPONE ALSO ACHIEVED CONSIDERABLE FAME FOR HIS OUTSPOKEN CRITICISM OF THE PAPACY "ONIFACE 6))) ONE OF THE MOST VICE RIDDEN OF POPES WAS A REGULAR VISITOR TO 4ODI WHERE HE HAD A RESERVED STALL IN THE CATHEDRAL /NE OF HIS FAVOURITE TRICKS WAS TO HAVE THE TONGUES OF HERETICS NAILED TO DOORS *ACOPONE BRAVELY n IF TACTLESSLY n SAID OF HIM h"LASPHEMOUS TONGUE THAT HAS POISONED THE WORLD 4HERE IS NO KIND OF UGLY SIN)N WHICH YOU HAVE NOT BECOME INFAMOUSv (E WAS IMPRISONED FOR HIS ELOQUENCE LUCKY TO ESCAPE WITH HIS LIFE AND REMAINED INCARCERATED FOR lVE YEARS IN THE PAPAL DUNGEONS OF 0ALESTRINA NEAR 2OME /NLY THE ELECTION OF 0OPE "ENEDICT 8) IN SECURED HIS RELEASE 2ETURNING TO 4ODI HE JOINED A &RANCISCAN CONVENT AT #OLLAZZONE NORTH OF 4ODI WHERE HE CONTRIVED TO DIE ON #HRISTMAS $AY 4ODI REMEMBERS HIM WITH A PIAZZA AND THE VAST MAUSOLEUM IN THE CRYPT OF 3AN &ORTUNATO
/2 6 ) % 4/ ! .$ 3 / 5 4 ( % 2 . 5 - "2 ) !
CHOIR HEAVIER AND WITH MORE HINTS OF THE "AROQUE THAN THE ONE IN THE $UOMO AS WELL AS A FEW SCANT PATCHES OF FRESCO n THE -ADONNA BY -ASOLINO DI 0ANICALE IN THE FOURTH CHAPEL ON THE RIGHT IS A GOOD IF SOMEWHAT BATTERED EXAMPLE OF THIS PAINTERS RARE WORK 4HE SIXTH CHAPEL ON THIS SIDE CONTAINS FURTHER GOOD FRESCO FRAGMENTS OF THE #RUCIlXION AND SCENES FROM THE LIFE OF 3T &RANCIS FROM AROUND BY AN UNKNOWN 5MBRIAN FOLLOWER OF 'IOTTO )T IS POSSIBLE TO CLIMB THE STEPS OF THE CHURCH TOWER FOR SOME lNE VIEWS 4UESn3UN !PRILn/CT AMnPM nPM .OVn-ARCH AMnPM nPM OPEN -ON ON PUBLIC HOLIDAYS + THE ENTRANCE IS ON THE NORTH AISLE "E SURE TO PAY HOMAGE TO THE TOMB OF *ACOPONE DA 4ODI IN THE CRYPT WHICH WAS BUILT IN ON THE ORDERS OF "ISHOP !NGELO #ESI TO HOUSE THIS TOMB AND THOSE OF THE TOWNS lVE PATRON SAINTS #ESI WAS ONE OF A FAMILY WHO MANAGED TO RETAIN CONTROL OF THE TOWNS CLERGY FOR DECADES HOLDING THE BISHOPRIC CONTINUALLY FROM TO n PROBABLY NOT UNCONNECTED WITH THE FACT THAT ONE OF THE #ESI 0AOLO %MILIO MANAGED TO BECOME 0OPE 0AUL ))) 4HE CLOISTERS ARE OUTSIDE AND TO THE RIGHT OF THE CHURCH .OTE THAT A QUIET LANE LEADS FROM THE RIGHT OF THE CHURCH INTO PUBLIC GARDENS FULL OF SHADY NOOKS AND NARROW PATHWAYS AND AN ENJOYABLE SPOT FOR A SIESTA OR PICNIC ON THE ROUTE TO 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA #ONSOLAZIONE /N THIS WESTERN EDGE OF TOWN THERES ALSO A KIDS PLAYGROUND AND A VERY SMALL 2OCCA OF !LBORNOZ VINTAGE BOTH FAR LESS NOTEWORTHY THAN THE VIEWS WHICH ARE EXTENSIVE IF OFTEN OBSCURED BY HAZE !T THE GARDENS WESTERN END A ZIGZAG PATH CUTS DOWN TO 6IALE DELLA #ONSOLAZIONE FOR THE CHURCH 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA #ONSOLAZIONE
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-ANY ARCHITECTURAL COGNOSCENTI RATE 3ANTA -ARIA DELLA #ONSOLAZIONE DAILY EXCEPT 4UES !PRILn/CT AMnPM nPM .OVn-ARCH AMnPM nPM FREE AS ONE OF THE BEST 2ENAISSANCE CHURCHES IN )TALY )NSPIRED BY AN APPARITION OF THE 6IRGIN ON THE SITE AND COMPLETED IN THE PROJECT WAS INITIATED A CENTURY EARLIER PROBABLY BY THE VIRTUALLY UNKNOWN #OLA DA #APRAROLA POSSIBLY USING ONE OF "RAMANTES DRAFTS FROM 3T 0ETERS IN 2OME 4HE CHURCHS USE OF ALTERNATING TYPES OF WINDOW IN THE CUPOLA n KNOWN AS RHYTHMIC BAYS n IS A "RAMANTE TRADEMARK /VER THE YEARS VIRTUALLY EVERY LEADING ARCHITECT OF THE DAY HAD HIS SAY IN THE DESIGN OF THE CHURCH INCLUDING 3ANGALLO 0ERUZZI AND 6IGNOLA 4ANTALIZINGLY A PICTURE FROM OF THE CHURCH WAS ALSO FOUND AMONG THE ARCHITECTURAL DRAWINGS OF ,EONARDO DA 6INCI PRE DATING #APRAROLAS INVOLVEMENT 7HATEVER THE CHURCHS CONVOLUTED AND MYSTERIOUS ORIGINS IT EVEN TUALLY CAME TO CONFORM TO MOST OF THE PRECEPTS ARTICULATED BY !LBERTI THE GREAT THEORETICIAN OF 2ENAISSANCE ARCHITECTURE A 'REEK CROSS mOOR PLAN PURITY OF FORM AND PROPORTION ISOLATION IN AN OPEN PIAZZA A WHITE OR NEAR WHITE lNISH PURITY AGAIN HIGH WINDOWS CUTTING OFF FROM EARTHLY CONTACT AND A PREFERENCE FOR STATUARY AGAIN OF GREATER hPURITYv THAN PAINTING 4HE REST OF THE TOWN
&OR A REMINDER OF ANCIENT 4ODI TAKE A LOOK AT THE SO CALLED NICCHIONI NICHES IN 0IAZZA DEL -ERCATO 6ECCHIO SITED JUST BELOW 0IAZZA DEL 0OPOLO CISTERNS AND WALLS ASIDE THEY CONSTITUTE MORE OR LESS ALL THATS LEFT OF THE 2OMAN COLONY 4HE TOWNS PROUD OF THEM BUT THEY DONT AMOUNT TO MUCH FOUR SLIGHTLY OVERGROWN ARCHES WHICH PERHAPS FORMED THE WALL OF AN !UGUSTAN BASILICA 4WO MINUTES WALK DOWN FROM HERE BRINGS YOU TO 3AN )LARIO ALSO KNOWN AS 3AN #ARLO AN ANCIENT ,OMBARD CHAPEL WELL OFF THE BEATEN TRACK AND ALL TOO OFTEN LOCKED TO PROTECT A FRESCO OF THE -ADONNA DELLA -ISERICORDIA BY ,O 3PAGNA *UST BEYOND THE CHURCH ADJOINING A CRUMBLING mOWER STREWN ARBOUR IS THE &ONTE 3CARNA
BECCO AN UNUSUAL ARCHED FOUNTAIN THAT WAS 4ODIS LIFEBLOOD AND SOCIAL MEETING PLACE BEFORE PIPED WATER *UST INSIDE THE MEDIEVAL WALLS AT 0ORTA 2OMANA ARE THE CHURCHES OF 3AN &ILIPPO DULL EXCEPT FOR FRESCOED PANELS ON THE RIGHT HAND WALL AND THE MORE INTERESTING 3AN .ICOLÛ DISTINGUISHED BY A STRIKING WOODEN CEILING THREE IMPOSING 'OTHIC ARCHES AND TWO SMALL 5MBRIAN FRESCOES ON THE LEFT HAND WALL 9OU MIGHT ALSO DROP IN ON THIRTEENTH CENTURY 3ANTA -ARIA IN #AMUCCIA TWO MINUTES OFF 6IA 2OMA RECENTLY REUNITED WITH ITS PRICELESS STOLEN TWELFTH CENTURY WOODEN -ADONNA 4WO BEAUTIFULLY mUTED 2OMAN COLUMNS mANKING THE ENTRANCE ARE THE MOST SUBSTANTIAL PARTS OF A LARGE COLLECTION OF 2OMAN PIECES DUG UP FROM UNDER THE CHURCH FOR A LOOK AT THE MINOR PIECES CHAT UP THE RESIDENT PRIEST n THE STUFF IS IN HIS QUARTERS
%ATING AND DRINKING
%XCHANGE !T THE POST OFlCE OR THE BANK ACROSS THE ROAD FROM THE SQUARE ON 0IAZZA DEL 0OPOLOS SOUTHEAST CORNER (OSPITAL 6IA 'IACOMO -ATTEOTTI 0OLICE #ARABINIERI 6IA 3ANT!GOSTINO -UNICIPAL POLICE 6IA -AZZINI
0OST OFlCE 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI -ONn&RI AMn PM 3AT AMnPM 4AXIS 0IAZZA 'ARIBALDI AND 0IAZZA *ACOPONE
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,ISTINGS
/2 6 ) % 4/ ! .$ 3 / 5 4 ( % 2 . 5 - "2 ) ! !LONG THE 4IBER VALLEY
4ODIS MOST ENJOYABLE RESTAURANT FOR LUNCH IS THE 5MBRIA CLOSED 4UES BEHIND THE TOURIST OFlCE PRICES ARE RATHER HIGH AND SERVICE CAN BE SLOW AND OFFHAND BUT THE PANORAMA ACROSS WHAT SEEMS LIKE HALF OF 5MBRIA FROM THE OUTSIDE TERRACE MAKES IT ALL WORTHWHILE IN SEASON ARRIVE EARLY OR BOOK TO BE SURE OF AN OUTSIDE TABLE )NSIDE THE APPEAL IS CONSIDERABLY REDUCED ESPECIALLY IF YOU HAVE TO SIT IN ONE OF THE STUFFY SMOKE lLLED SIDE ROOMS !N EXCELLENT ALTER NATIVE IN A LESS APPEALING SITUATION BUT WITH A COSY BRICK VAULTED INTERIOR AND CREATIVE COOKING IS !NTICA /STERIA DELLA 6ALLE 6IA #IUFELLI CLOSED -ON A LITTLE WAY DOWN FROM 3AN &ORTUNATO /THERWISE ,E 3CALETTE CLOSED -ON DIRECTLY OPPOSITE OFFERS A SMALL PANORAMIC TER RACE AND LESS IMAGINATIVE FOOD AT SIMILAR PRICES #HEAPER OPTIONS INCLUDE THE FRIENDLY #AVOUR #ORSO #AVOUR n OPEN DAILY NOT AS PLEASANTLY OLD FASHIONED AS IT USED TO BE AND WITH AN UNFORTUNATE TENDENCY TO PIPED MUSIC BUT WITH GOOD BASIC FOOD INCLUDING PIZZAS AND OUTSIDE DINING ON A lNE PANORAMIC TERRACE #HEAPER STILL IS THE SPARTAN 'IUBILEI )TALO A PIZZERIA ROSTICCERIA IN 0IAZZA "ARTOLOMEO D!LVIANO M FROM 0IAZZA DEL 0OPOLO CLOSED -ON AFTER PM /PPO SITE THIS IS THE 0IANIGGIANA A GOOD BAR WITH OUTSIDE TABLES THOUGH THE COUPLE OF BARS IN 0IAZZA DEL 0OPOLO GIVE YOU MORE TO LOOK AT 3OUTH OF TOWN LOCALS HEAD TO ,A -ULINELLA KM AWAY NEAR THE SPORTS CENTRE 0ONTENAIA CLOSED 7ED PART OF .OV A FAMILY RUN PLACE WHERE MATRIARCH )RMA CHANGES THE MENU REGULARLY WITHOUT STRAYING TOO FAR FROM REGIONAL STAPLES )N SUMMER YOU CAN SIT IN THE GARDEN AND LOOK UP TO 4ODI
!LONG THE 4IBER VALLEY .ORTH OF 4ODI THE 4IBER VALLEY BROADENS OUT TO A PLAIN EDGED WITH LOW HILLS AND DOTTED WITH LIGHT INDUSTRY )TS NOT AN AREA WHERE YOULL WANT TO SPEND A LOT
OF TIME n AND MOST PEOPLE TEAR THROUGH OR CRAWL ALONG ON THE TRAIN ! FEW OF THE CASTLES VILLAGES AND 2OMANESQUE CHURCHES HOWEVER ARE WORTHWHILE IF YOURE IN NO HURRY TO GET TO 0ERUGIA 4HE WEST BANK OF THE 4IBER
/2 6 ) % 4/ ! .$ 3 / 5 4 ( % 2 . 5 - "2 ) !
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4HE SPECTACULARLY SITED -/.4% #!34%,,/ $) 6)")/ IS KM FROM 4ODI OFF THE . 4HIS EAGLES NEST OF A VILLAGE DOMINATES THE COUNTRYSIDE AND ITS CASTLE WAS ONE OF A REPUTED FORTRESSES THAT FORMED A DEFENSIVE SCREEN AROUND 4ODI 4HERES LITTLE TO SEE SAVE EXTRAORDINARY VIEWS AND THE USUAL MAZE OF MEDI EVAL ALLEYWAYS )T DOES HOWEVER HAVE A LOVELY LITTLE SEAT THEATRE 3AT 3UN AMnNOON PMnPM OR BY APPOINTMENT FREE BUILT IN IN CELEBRATION OF THE &RENCH 2EVOLUTION AND RESTORED IN 4HE VILLAGE MAKES AN EXCELLENT BASE AWAY FROM THE CROWDS THANKS TO THE TWENTY ROOM THREE STAR HOTEL )L #ASTELLO 0IAZZA ' -ARCONI WWWHOTELILCASTELLOIT SUPERBLY CONVERTED FROM A SIXTEENTH CENTURY PATRI CIAN TOWN HOUSE "ELOW -ONTE #ASTELLO THE WALLED VILLAGE OF &2!44! 4/$).! IS GUARDED BY ANOTHER CASTLE STRENGTHENED IN THE lFTEENTH CENTURY BY THE LOCAL WARLORD "RACCIO &ORTEBRACCIO AS A GARRISON FOR HIS TROOPS .EAR THE CENTRE OF THE VILLAGE IS A &RANCISCAN MONASTERY WHICH FEATURES IN MANY OF THE STORIES AND LEGENDS OF THE ORDER -OVING NORTH -ARSCIANO IS THE REGIONS MAIN TOWN MODERN AND WITHOUT INTEREST #%215%4/ HAS 0ERUGINO FRESCOES OF 3T 3EBASTIAN IN ITS PARISH CHURCH AND OTHER DAMAGED WORKS ATTRIBUTED TO THE ARTIST AT THE EDGE OF THE VILLAGE IN THE -AESTÌ DI 3ANTA ,UCIA 4HERE ARE IMPRESSIVE CASTLE REMAINS KM AWAY AT 3ANT%LENA %AST OF THE 4IBER
')!./ $%,,5-"2)! A PERFECT FORTIlED HAMLET RINGED BY OLIVE GROVES AND PASTORAL COUNTRYSIDE SERVED BY AT LEAST TWO BUSES DAILY -ONn3AT FROM &OLIGNO LIES KM NORTHEAST OF 4ODI ALONG A LOOPING DETOUR OFF THE . )TS CENTRAL PARISH CHURCH HAS A WIDELY REVERED FOURTEENTH CENTURY FRESCO FRAGMENT OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD 4AKE THE ROAD SOUTH OF THE VILLAGE FORK LEFT AT THE JUNCTION AFTER ABOUT KM AND YOULL COME TO THE ONLY HOTEL FOR A LONG WAY THE TWO STAR 0ARK (OTEL WITH SEVEN ROOMS AND A CAVERNOUS DIN ING ROOM 4HE ONLY CAMPSITE THE 0INETA DI 'IANO IS OPPOSITE THE HOTEL AT #OLLE
2OMANESQUE CHURCHES EAST OF THE 4IBER !LMOST ANY OF THE HILL VILLAGES YOU CHOOSE EAST OF THE 4IBER WILL BE QUIET AND BOAST A 2OMANESQUE CHURCH -OST OF THESE ARE BUILT OVER THE GRAVES OF EARLY MONKS AND MARTYRS THE 4IBER AND .AIA VALLEYS HAVING BEEN AMONGST THE EARLIEST TO BE COLONIZED BY #HRISTIANS mEEING 2OMAN PERSECUTION THIS AREA AND THE REGION SOUTH TOWARDS 4ERNI THUS FORMED THE SPRINGBOARD OF 5MBRIAS MONASTIC TRADITION 0ERHAPS THE MOST REWARDING CHURCHES ARE THOSE YOU COME UPON BY ACCIDENT IN CRUMBLING HAMLETS OR IN THE MIDST OF THE ILEX WOODS THAT BLANKET SURROUNDING HILLS 4HE FOLLOWING ARE OUTSTANDING 6IEPRI IN THE VILLAGE OF THE SAME NAME NORTH OF -ASSA -ARTANA !BBA ZIA AND 6ILLA DI 3AN &AUSTINO KEY KEPT IN HOUSE NEXT DOOR TO VILLA CATACOMBS AND FUNERARY BASILICA STILL BEING EXCAVATED ON THE SITE ARE USUALLY OPEN 4UES 4HURS 3AT AMnPM 3ANTA -ARIA IN 0ARTANO IN WHICH THE HIGH ALTAR IS MADE FROM AN OLD 2OMAN ALTAR SOUTH OF -ASSA -ARTANA KEY KEPT IN HOUSE TO RIGHT OF CHURCH 3AN 4ERENZANO OUTSIDE VILLAGE OF SAME NAME INTERIOR USUALLY CLOSED BUT CRYPT ENTERED BY STAIRS FROM EXTERIOR USUALLY OPEN AND THE ELEVENTH CENTURY !BBAZIA DI 33 &IDENZIO E 4ERENZIO INTERIOR USUALLY CLOSED
DEL 'ALLO -ONTECERRETO !PRILn3EPT IT HAS A SWIMMING POOL AND A BEAUTIFUL SITE BACKED BY THE TREE COVERED SLOPES OF THE -ONTI -ARTANI 3EVERAL PATHS RUN UP TO THE SUMMIT RIDGE WHICH HAS MAGNIlCENT VIEWS AS FAR AS 4ODI AND IN -AY AND *UNE EXCEPTIONAL CARPETS OF WILD mOWERS 4HERES AN EXCELLENT LITTLE KNOWN AND INEXPENSIVE RESTAURANT )L "UONGUSTAIO CLOSED 7ED IMMEDIATELY WITHIN 'IANOS WALLS AT THE VILLAGES SOUTHERN ENTRANCE .ORTH OF 'IANO THE UNFORTUNATELY NAMED "ASTARDO IS A MODERN MESS WITH NOTHING TO RECOMMEND IT '5!,$/ #!44!.%/ JUST BEYOND IS BY CON TRAST AN ENTICING MEDIEVAL HILL VILLAGE DOMINATED BY A CIRCULAR TOWER CUM CASTLE BUILT IN BY THE "ORGIA 0OPE !LEXANDER 6) )TS NAME COMES FROM THE 3AXON WORD FOR FOREST WALD 6IRTUALLY EVERY HAMLET WITHIN A TEN KILOMETRE RADIUS HAS A CASTLE THOSE AT "ARATTANO #ISTERNA 0OZZO AND 3ARGANO BEING PARTICULARLY OUTSTANDING 3OME HAMLETS HAVE BOTH A CASTLE AND A 2OMANESQUE CHURCH AS AT -!2#%,,!./ WITH ITS FRESCOED TWELFTH CENTURY CHURCH OF 3ANT!NGELO AND '2544) WHOSE NAME DERIVES FROM THE NEARBY GROTTOES OF EARLY #HRIS TIANS 3LIGHTLY NORTH ARE TWO MORE SHORT STOP VILLAGES #/,,!::/.% HAS GOOD VIEWS AND MEDIEVAL STREETS WITH SCENIC ROADS AROUND THROUGH OLIVES AND OAK FOREST 4HE PARISH CHURCH IN #!34%,,%/.% OVER TOWARDS $ERUTA HAS FRESCOES BY -ATTEO DA 'UALDO A lFTEENTH CENTURY 5MBRIAN MORE USUALLY ACTIVE FARTHER NORTH $ERUTA AND -ADONNA DEI "AGNI
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/2 6 ) % 4/ ! .$ 3 / 5 4 ( % 2 . 5 - "2 ) ! !LONG THE 4IBER VALLEY
$%254! IS BEST KNOWN FOR ITS CERAMICS n MUCH OF IT HANDMADE HAND PAINTED AND BY GENERAL CONSENT AMONG )TALYS BEST 4HE 2OMANS WORKED THE LOCAL CLAY BUT IT WAS THE DISCOVERY OF DISTINCTIVE BLUE AND YELLOW GLAZES IN THE lFTEENTH CENTURY ALLIED WITH THE -OORISH INmUENCED DESIGNS OF SOUTHERN 3PAIN THAT PUT THE TOWN lRMLY ON THE MAP 3OME lFTY WORKSHOPS TRADED AS FAR AlELD AS "RITAIN AND PIECES FROM $ERUTAS SIXTEENTH CENTURY HEYDAY HAVE FOUND THEIR WAY INTO THE WORLDS MAJOR MUSEUMS $ESIGNS THESE DAYS ARE MAINLY COPIES WITH LITTLE ORIGINAL WORK IF YOURE SERIOUS ABOUT THIS SORT OF THING AVOID THE ROADSIDE STALLS AND HEAD FOR THE WORKSHOPS OF THE NEW TOWN FOR THE BEST SELECTION AND PRICES 4HE OLD TOWN ON THE HILL ISNT PARTICULARLY COMPELLING APART FROM THE -USEO 2EGIONALE DELLA #ERAMICA ALONGSIDE THE CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCESCO *ULYn3EPT DAILY AMnPM nPM !PRILn*UNE DAILY AMnPM nPM /CTn-ARCH DAILY EXCEPT 4UES AMnPM nPM + 4HE BEST MATERIAL IS ON THE SECOND mOOR WITH CERAMICS FROM THE 2ENAISSANCE PERIOD ELSEWHERE YOULL lND EXHIBITS FROM JUST ABOUT EVERY ERA FROM THE 2OMAN PERIOD TO THE PRESENT DAY 4HE TICKET ALSO ADMITS YOU TO THE TINY 0INACOTECA IN 0IAZZA DEI #ONSOLI CLOSED FOR RESTORATION OF UNCERTAIN DURATION WHERE THE HIGH SPOTS ARE A DETACHED DAMAGED BUT RARE FRESCO BY &IORENZO DI ,ORENZO AND A -ADONNA AND #HILD AND GONFALONE BY .ICOLÛ !LUNNO 3AN &RANCESCO WAS LARGELY RUINED IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY AND IS DISTINGUISHED ONLY BY THE TINIEST FRAG MENTS OF n FOURTEENTH CENTURY FRESCO 4HE RARELY OPEN CHURCH OF -!$/..! $%) "!'.) KM SOUTH OF $ERUTA IS THE ONE SIGHT ON THE MAIN 33BIS ROAD THATS DElNITELY WORTH A DETOUR )TS WALLS ARE COVERED WITH HUNDREDS OF VOTIVE TILES LEFT BY PILGRIMS OVER THE LAST THREE CENTURIES YIELDING A UNIQUE INSIGHT INTO THE PECULIARITIES OF RELIGIOUS BELIEF AND THE CHANGES IN DAILY LIFE 4HE MOST ENTERTAINING ARE THOSE OFFERED AS THANKS FOR ESCAPES FROM DANGEROUS AND NOT SO DANGEROUS CORNERS n lRE mOOD FAMINE A FALL FROM A COW A BITE FROM A DONKEY 4HEY ALSO REPRESENT AN OFFBEAT RECORD OF THE AREAS THRIVING CERAMIC TRADITION 3ADLY A HUNDRED TILES WERE STOLEN IN SO OPENING HOURS ARE CURTAILED AS A RESULT THE BEST TIME TO TRY IS ON 3ATURDAY MORNING WHEN ITS NOT UNKNOWN FOR COACH PARTIES TO SHOW UP
4ORGIANO
4/2')!./ KM NORTH OF $ERUTA THOUGH A FAIRLY DULL TOWN IS HOME TO 5MBRIAS lNEST WINES ALL OF THEM PRODUCED BY 'IORGIO ,UNGAROTTI lRST OF THE NEW BREED OF )TALIAN PRODUCERS ! SELF MADE MAN AND NOW SOMETHING OF A NATIONAL CELEBRITY HES PUT TOGETHER AN INTERESTING AND EXTENSIVE -USEO DEL 6INO IN THE SUITABLY ATMOSPHERIC CELLARS OF THE 0ALAZZO 'RAZIANI "AGLIONI #ORSO 6ITTORIO %MANUELE )) DAILY AMnPM nPM /CTn-ARCH CLOSES PM + JOINT TICKET WITH -USEO DELL/LIVO + WWWLUNGAROTTIIT %ARLY SECTIONS LOOK AT THE ORIGINS OF VITICULTURE FOLLOWED BY DOCUMENTATION RELAT ING TO WINE MAKING IN THE -IDDLE !GES 3UBSEQUENT ROOMS ARE DEVOTED TO 6IN 3ANTO COMMERCE THE LEGAL NICETIES OF WINE MAKING CULTIVATION WINE MYTHOLOGY AND MORE EVERYTHING WELL LABELLED IN %NGLISH 4HE LESS PERSUASIVE -USEO DELL/LIVO E DELL/LIO 6IA 'ARIBALDI SAME HOURS + JOINT TICKET + TRACES THE STORY OF OLIVES AND LOCAL OLIVE CULTIVATION !N EXCELLENT SELECTION OF WINES ARE SOLD AT GOOD PRICES IN THE ENOTECA BESIDE THE -USEO DEL 6INO AND IN SHOPS AND RESTAURANTS ACROSS 5MBRIA AND BEYOND ANY BOTTLE WITH THE ,UNGAROTTI NAME SHOULD BE GOOD BUT PARTICULAR LABELS TO LOOK OUT FOR INCLUDE ,UNGAROTTIS 2UBESCO 4ORRE DI 'IANO #HARDONNAY AND #ASTEL 'RIFONE 9OU CAN BUY THE CHEAPER 4ORGIANO WINES IN MOST )TALIAN SUPERMAR KETS BUT THE 2UBESCO 2ISERVA WHICH RATES AS ONE OF )TALYS VERY lNEST IS RATHER MORE ELUSIVE /2 6 ) % 4/ ! .$ 3 / 5 4 ( % 2 . 5 - "2 ) !
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/RVIETO /26)%4/ SITS ON A SPECTACULAR TABLETOP OF VOLCANIC TUFA WHOSE SHEER SIDES FALL M TO THE VINE COVERED VALLEY mOOR n A CLIFF EDGED REMNANT OF THE FOUR VOLCANOES WHOSE ERUPTIONS ALSO BEQUEATHED THE SOILS THAT PRODUCE /RVIETOS OCCASIONALLY lNE WINES /UT ON A LIMB FROM THE REST OF 5MBRIA THE TOWN IS PERFECTLY PLACED BETWEEN 2OME AND &LORENCE TO SERVE AS A HISTORICAL PICNIC FOR TOUR OPERATORS AND TOURISTS mOOD HERE IN THEIR MILLIONS IN HIGH SEASON DRAWN BY THE $UOMO n ONE OF THE GREATEST 'OTHIC BUILDINGS IN )TALY AND HOME OF SOME SUBLIME FRESCOES BY ,UCA 3IGNORELLI /NCE THESE HAVE BEEN ADMIRED /RVIETO IS NOT AS EXHILARATING AS SOME 5MBRIAN TOWNS THOUGH THE CENTRO STORICO THE VIEWS AND THE RENOWNED WHITE WINE ARE ENOUGH TO JUSTIFY A NIGHTS STOP 4HE CITY IS ONE OF THE MOST ANCIENT IN )TALY THANKS TO ITS IRRESISTIBLE SITE "RONZE AND )RON !GE TRIBES WERE PRESENT BEFORE IT BECAME AN %TRUSCAN SETTLEMENT LATER NAMED 6OLSINII 6ETERES OR 6ELZNA IN AROUND THE NINTH CENTURY "# %VENTUALLY IT BECAME A LEADING MEMBER OF THE TWELVE STRONG %TRUSCAN FEDERATION AND POSSIBLY THE SITE OF THE %TRUSCANS PRINCIPAL RELIGIOUS SHRINE THE &ANUM 6OLTUMNAE )N "# POSSIBLY EARLIER THE 2OMANS RAVAGED THE TOWN AND DISPLACED THE %TRUSCANS TO PRESENT DAY "OLSENA OR 6OLSINII .OVI n THE PLACE THEY ABANDONED BECOMING KNOWN AS 5RBS 6ETUS THE /LD #ITY THUS /RVIETO )TS MEDIEVAL INmUENCE WAS CONSIDERABLE THE INDEPENDENT COMUNE CHALLENGING &LORENCE AND EVENTUALLY CLAIMING LAND AS FAR AS -ONTE !MIATA IN THE NORTH AND TO THE COAST AT /RBETELLO IN THE WEST 0OWER AND PRESTIGE REMAINED HIGH UNTIL THE USUAL INTERNECINE SQUABBLING THE "LACK $EATH OF SOUNDING THE TOWNS EFFECTIVE DEATH KNELL )T PASSED TO THE #HURCH FOR GOOD A HUNDRED YEARS LATER AND BECAME SOMETHING OF A PAPAL HOME FROM HOME POPES IN ALL STAYED IN THE CITY /NE OF THEM 'REGORY ) EVEN MET %DWARD ) OF %NGLAND HERE ON %DWARDS RETURN FROM THE #RUSADES
#ARTA /RVIETO 5NICA ! SINGLE TICKET THE #ARTA /RVIETO 5NICA + PROVIDES ADMISSION TO THE 3IGNORELLI FRESCOES IN THE $UOMOS #APPELLA DI 3AN "RIZIO /RVIETO 5NDERGROUND THE -USEO #LAUDIO &AINA AND 4ORRE DEL -ORO )T ALSO ALLOWS YOU ONE TRIP ON THE FUNICULAR AND ONE BUS JOURNEY PLUS lVE HOURS WORTH OF PARKING AT THE #AMPO DELLA &IERA CAR PARK BENEATH THE WALLS AT THE SOUTHWEST CORNER OF /RVIETO FROM WHERE ESCALATORS RUN UP TO TOWN 9OU CAN BUY THE TICKET AT THE TOURIST OFlCE AND THE 0ARCHEGGIO DELLA &UNICOLARE OR FUNICULAR CAR PARK BY THE RAILWAY STATION IN /RVIETO 3CALO
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!NDREA 0ISANO AND !NDREA /RCAGNA n RESPONSIBLE FOR MUCH OF THE ROSE WINDOW n ALSO HAD A HAND IN DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION 4HE FOUR PILLARS AT THE BASE ARE AMONG THE HIGHLIGHTS OF FOURTEENTH CENTURY )TALIAN SCULPTURE 4HE WORK OF -AITANI AND HIS PUPILS THEY DEPICT EPISODES FROM THE /LD AND .EW 4ESTAMENTS IN STAGGERING DETAIL LASHINGS OF PLAGUE FAMINE MARTYRDOM MUTILATION AND MURDER 4HE PANELS READ FROM LEFT TO RIGHT STARTING WITH THE #REATION ON THE LEFT MOST PILLAR 4HE STORIES IN STONE HERE ARE WONDER FULLY GRAPHIC AND SELF EXPLANATORY BUT THE DELICACY OF THE CARVING ESPECIALLY OF THE TREES WHICH HAVE THE INTRICACY OF CORAL IS EXTRAORDINARY ,OOK IN PARTICULAR AT THE SCENE OF %VE EMERGING FROM !DAMS RIB SECOND TIER THE CASTING OUT OF !DAM AND %VE FOURTH TIER AND #AIN SLAYING !BEL lFTH TIER RIGHT HAND PANEL THE LAST ESPECIALLY POWERFUL 4HE SECOND PILLAR HAS THE STORIES OF !BRAHAM AND $AVID AND THE THIRD SCENES FROM THE LIVES OF #HRIST AND THE 6IRGIN -ANY DETAILS
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#HURCH TRADITION HOLDS THAT THE $UOMO WAS BUILT TO CELEBRATE THE -IRACLE OF "OLSENA WHICH OCCURRED IN 4HE PROTAGONIST A YOUNG "AVARIAN PRIEST WAS ON A PILGRIM AGE TO 2OME TO SHAKE OFF HIS DISBELIEF IN TRANSUBSTANTIATION THE IDEA THAT THE BODY AND BLOOD OF #HRIST ARE PHYSICALLY PRESENT IN THE %UCHARIST 7HILE HE CELEBRATED -ASS IN A CHURCH NEAR ,AGO DI "OLSENA BLOOD STARTED TO DRIP FROM THE (OST ONTO THE COR PORALE THE WHITE LINEN CLOTH THAT COVERS THE ALTAR hEACH STAIN SEVERALLY ASSUMING THE FORM OF A HUMAN HEAD WITH FEATURES LIKE THE 6OLTO 3ANTO THE FACE OF THE 3AVIOURv 4HE LINEN WAS WHISKED OFF TO 0OPE 5RBAN )6 WHO WAS HOLED UP IN /RVIETO TO ESCAPE THE LITERAL AND POLITICAL HEAT IN 2OME (E PROCLAIMED A MIRACLE AND A YEAR LATER 4HOMAS !QUINAS THEN TEACHING IN /RVIETOS 3AN $OMENICO DREW UP A PAPAL BULL INSTIGATING THE FEAST OF #ORPUS $OMINI 4HE CORNERSTONE OF THE $UOMO WAS NOT PUT IN PLACE FOR ANOTHER YEARS LAID BY 0OPE .ICHOLAS )6 ON .OVEMBER AND !QUINASS BULL MAKES NO SPECIlC MEN TION OF "OLSENA SO ITS LIKELY THAT THE RAISING OF THE $UOMO WAS AS MUCH A SHREWD PIECE OF POLITICAL PRAGMATISM AS A CELEBRATION OF A MIRACLE 4HE PAPACY AT THE TIME WAS IN RETREAT AND THE 5MBRIAN TOWNS n NOT LEAST /RVIETO n AT THE HEIGHT OF THEIR CIVIC EXPANSION 4HUS IT SEEMS LIKELY THAT THE BUILDING OF THIS AWE INSPIRING CATHEDRAL IN ONE OF THE REGIONS MOST POWERFUL TOWNS WAS A PIECE OF POLITICAL MUSCLE mEXING TO REMIND ERRANT CITIZENS OF THE PAPACYS POWER )T WAS INDEED MIRACULOUS THAT THE $UOMO WAS BUILT AT ALL -EDIEVAL /RVIETO WAS SO VIOLENT THAT AT TIMES THE POPULATION CONSIDERED ABANDONING THE CITY ALTOGETHER $ANTE WROTE THAT ITS FAMILY FEUDS WERE WORSE THAN THOSE BETWEEN 6ERONAS -ONTECCHI AND #APPELLI INSPIRATION FOR 3HAKESPEARES MURDEROUS -ONTAGUES AND #APULETS IN 2OMEO AND *ULIET 4HE BUILDING WAS ALSO DOGGED BY A COMMITTEE APPROACH TO DESIGN THE PLANS BEING MODIlED CONTINUALLY TO ACCOMMODATE CHANGES IN ARCHITECTURAL TASTE !T LEAST THE SITE POSED NO PROBLEMS THE CITYS HIGHEST POINT WAS PREVIOUSLY HOME TO AN %TRUSCAN TEMPLE AND /RVIETOS lRST CATHEDRAL 3ANTA -ARIA 0RISCA %VEN TODAY THE CATHEDRAL CONTINUES TO DOMINATE THE SKYLINE FOR MILES AROUND 4HE ARCHITECT IS UNKNOWN THOUGH IT SEEMS POSSIBLE THAT IT WAS !RNOLFO DI #AMBIO DESIGNER OF &LORENCES $UOMO !T /RVIETO THE PLAN INITIALLY WAS FOR A SIMPLE AND ORTHODOX 2OMANESQUE CHURCH BUT IN THE EARLY YEARS OF WORK A LOCAL ARCHITECTS EXTRAVAGANT DEPARTURES INTO THE 'OTHIC BROUGHT THE STRUCTURE CLOSE TO COLLAPSE LEAD ING TO THE CALL UP IN OF THE 3IENESE MASTER ,ORENZO -AITANI )N THE COURSE OF THREE DECADES HE GUIDED THE CONSTRUCTION AT ITS MOST CRUCIAL STAGE AND PRODUCED THE MAGNIlCENT CARVINGS ON THE FACADE 4HOUGH BUILDING DRAGGED ON FOR OVER THREE HUN DRED YEARS EXHAUSTING ARCHITECTS SCULPTORS PAINTERS AND MOSAICISTS THE lNAL PRODUCT IS A SURPRISINGLY UNIlED EXAMPLE OF THE TRANSITIONAL 2OMANESQUE 'OTHIC STYLE
IT APPEARS WERE CREATED PARTLY TO POINT AN ACCUSING lNGER AT /RVIETOS MORAL SLACK ERS AS THE EXTRAORDINARY FOURTH AND lNAL PILLAR MAKES CLEAR WITH ITS DEPICTIONS OF THE ,AST *UDGEMENT (ELL AND 0ARADISE AND THE DAMNED PACKED OFF TO ETERNAL lRE BRIMSTONE AND THE COMPANY OF AN AWFUL LOT OF SNAKES -AITANI WAS ALSO RESPONSIBLE FOR THE FOUR LARGE BRONZES OF THE SYMBOLS OF THE %VANGELISTS ACROSS THE lRST TIER AND FOR THE ANGELS OVER THE BEAUTIFUL CENTRAL DOORWAY 4HESE HOWEVER TOGETHER WITH THE -ADONNA IN THE LUNETTE HAVE BEEN REMOVED FOR RESTORATION AND WILL PROBABLY BE REPLACED BY COPIES THE ORIGINALS ARE LINED UP FOR DISPLAY IN THE -USEO DELL/PERA 4HE MOSAICS THE FACADES SHOWIEST ASPECT ARE MOSTLY EIGHTEENTH AND NINETEENTH CENTURY ADDITIONS REPLACEMENTS FOR ORIGINALS NABBED BY 2OME /NLY THE FOUR EXAMPLES IN THE CORNERS OF /RCAGNAS HUGE ROSE WINDOW HAVE ANY VINTAGE COMPLETED AROUND 4HE CENTRAL BRONZE DOORS BY %MILIO 'RECO WERE MADE AS RECENTLY AS AND IN THE BEST TRADITIONS OF THE $UOMO WERE ADDED AFTER MUCH TALK AND CONTROVERSY 4HE #APPELLA DI 3AN "RIZIO
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\ /RVIETO
!T lRST LITTLE SAVE THE COLOSSAL SCALE GRABS YOUR ATTENTION IN THE $UOMOS INTERIOR n WHICH IS FAR LESS CLUTTERED THAN THE SIMILAR CATHEDRAL IN 3IENA n A FEW SNATCHES OF FRESCO IN THE SCALLOPED SIDE NICHES AND THE WORK IMMEDIATELY ON YOUR LEFT AS YOU ENTER A HEAVILY RESTORED -ADONNA AND #HILD BY 'ENTILE DA &ABRIANO WITH A VERY SICKLY LOOKING *ESUS (OWEVER IN THE RIGHT TRANSEPT n THE #APPELLA DI 3AN "RIZIO n ARE ,UCA 3IGNORELLIS SUPERLATIVE PAINTINGS OF THE ,AST *UDGE MENT n ONE OF )TALYS GREAT FRESCO CYCLES AND ONE THAT HAD A PROFOUND INmUENCE ON -ICHELANGELOS VERSION IN THE 3ISTINE #HAPEL PAINTED FORTY YEARS LATER 4HE CYCLE IS ON VIEW AGAIN AFTER YEARS OF RESTORATION !PRILn3EPT -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN nPM EXCEPT 3UN *ULYn3EPT CLOSES AT PM -ARCH /CT -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN n PM .OVn&EB -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM 3UN nPM + 4ICKETS ARE NOT AVAILABLE IN THE CATHEDRAL BUT MUST BE BOUGHT FROM THE TOURIST OFlCE 3EVERAL PAINTERS TACKLED THE CHAPEL BEFORE 3IGNORELLI &RA !NGELICO MADE A START IN COMPLETING TWO OF THE CEILINGS EIGHT VAULTS #HRIST IN 'LORY WITH !NGELS MARKED AS ON OUR PLAN AND 4HE 0ROPHETS WITH THE ASSISTANCE OF "ENOZZO 'OZZOLI WHOSE HAND CAN BE SEEN IN THE ANGELS OF THE LATTER PANEL !NGELICO IT APPEARS SUGGESTED THE FRESCOES CENTRAL THEME THE ,AST *UDGEMENT BUT WAS THEN CALLED TO 2OME TO WORK IN THE 6ATICAN NEVER TO RETURN 4HE MURDER OF A LOCAL GRANDEE INVOLVED IN lNANCING THE PROJECT !RIGO -ONALDES CHI THEN BROUGHT WORK ON THE $UOMO TO ONE OF ITS PERIODIC HALTS 0ERUGINO POPPED UP FORTY YEARS LATER AND DISAPPEARED FOR REASONS UNKNOWN n NEVER TO RETURN n AFTER WORKING FOR JUST lVE DAYS 3IGNORELLI SAVED THE DAY GRACIOUSLY RESTORING &RA !NGELICOS WORK AND COMPLETING THE VAULTS ACCORDING TO THE ORIGINAL PLAN 7ORK THEN STARTED IN EARNEST ON THE WALLS ALL BUT THE LOWEST OF WHICH ARE CROWDED WITH PASSIONATE AND BEAUTIFULLY OBSERVED MUSCULAR lGURES CREATING AN EFFECT THATS BOTH REALISTIC AND ALMOST GROTESQUELY FANTASTIC AT THE SAME TIME 3EVEN MAIN EPISODES ARE PAINTED IN THE EIGHT PANELS OF THE VAULTS AND THE TWELVE mOOR LEVEL GROUPS OF FRESCOES 4HE lRST IS THE %ND OF THE 7ORLD ON THE ENTRANCE WALL THE LAST OF THE MAJOR EPISODES PAINTED n )N THE LOWER RIGHT FOREGROUND ARE DEPICTED %RITREA A SIBYL SHOWN HOLDING A BOOK OF PROPHECIES WHILE ALONGSIDE IS THE 0ROPHET $AVID WHO IS SHOWN ASSERTING THE VERACITY OF THE PROPHECIES "EHIND THEM AN EARTHQUAKE BRINGS DOWN A TEMPLE AND THREE YOUTHS FALL PREY TO BRIGANDS IN THE BACKGROUND SHIPS ARE TOSSED ON A
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SEA CONVULSED BY A TIDAL WAVE BROUGHT ON BY THE EARTHQUAKE (IGH UP ON THE LEFT YOU SEE THE FALL OF THE REBEL ANGELS MANY OF WHOM UNLEASH THUNDERBOLTS OF lRE WHICH FALL ON A TERRIlED CROWD BELOW ! PUTTO IN THE PANELS CENTRE HOLDS A SIGN WITH THE MARK OF THE /PERA DEL $UOMO /03- A REMINDER OF THE CATHEDRAL WORKS COMMITTEE RESPONSIBLE FOR COMMISSIONING AND OVERSEEING THE PROJECT
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4HE lRST LUNETTE PANEL ON THE WALL LEFT OF THE ENTRANCE DEPICTS ONE OF THE CYCLES MOST POWERFUL WORKS THE 0REACHING OF THE !NTICHRIST THE ICONOGRAPHY OF WHICH IS UNIQUE THE SUBJECT ITSELF IS VERY RARE IN )TALIAN PAINTING )T DERIVES FROM A TEXT WHOSE PRECISE AUTHORSHIP IS UNKNOWN BUT WHICH UNITES ELEMENTS FROM 3T !UGUSTINES #ITY OF 'OD ANCIENT MILLENNIAL TEXTS n THE WORLD WAS WIDELY EXPECTED TO END IN THE YEAR n AND THE 'OLDEN ,EGEND OF *ACOPO DA 6ARAGINE ALSO THE INSPIRATION FOR 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCAS !REZZO CYCLE SEE P 4HE !NTICHRIST IS SHOWN PREACHING AND BEARS THE IMAGE OF #HRIST ALBEIT ONE THAT DISPLAYS A DEMONIC DEMEANOUR WITH A DEVIL WHISPERING IN HIS EAR 6ARIOUS HISTORICAL lGURES STAND AMIDST THE CROWD TO THE LEFT AND RIGHT OF THE !NTICHRIST DESIGNED TO REPRESENT ALL COLOURS CREEDS AND CONDITIONS OF THE HUMAN FAMILY 3IGNORELLI HAS PORTRAYED HIMSELF WITH &RA!NGELICO BEHIND IN THE BLACK OF A $OMINICAN MONK IN THE LEFT FOREGROUND BOTH APPARENTLY UNPERTURBED BY THE GARROTING TAKING PLACE IN FRONT OF THEM !LSO PRESENT IN THE LEFT HAND GROUP ARE $ANTE REAR RIGHT IN PROlLE WITH RED HAT #ESARE "ORGIA ON THE EXTREME LEFT OF THE GROUP WITH BEARD BLOND HAIR AND RED HAT AND 0IUS )) THE CORPULENT FELLOW IN YELLOW BEHIND THE lGURE WITH HANDS ON HIPS ALONGSIDE THE !NTICHRIST !LSO HERE IS THE lGURE OF 3IGNORELLIS MISTRESS WHO JILTED HIM DURING THE TIME THE FRESCOES WERE BEING PAINTED AND AS PUNISHMENT IS PROMINENTLY PORTRAYED IN THE FOREGOUND OF THE GROUP AS A PROSTI TUTE TAKING MONEY 'ROUPS OF &RANCISCAN AND $OMINICAN MONKS CAN BE SEEN TO THE REAR AND RIGHT OF THE !NTICHRIST TRYING TO CALCULATE THE PRECISE DATE OF THE END OF THE WORLD n ONE COUNTS OFF THREE AND A HALF YEARS WITH HIS lNGERS THE DAYS THAT THE REIGN OF THE !NTICHRIST WAS EXPECTED TO ENDURE 4HE TWO OTHER GROUP VIGNETTES BEHIND THE MONKS TO RIGHT AND LEFT SHOW A FALSE MIRACLE AND THE EXECU TION OF TWO PENITENTS )N THE BACKGROUND IS THE 4EMPLE OF 3OLOMON WHILE IN THE HEAVENS THE !RCHANGEL -ICHAEL IS SEEN PREVENTING THE ASCENSION OF THE !NTICHRIST AND UNLEASHING A STORM OF lRE ONTO THE CORRUPT BELOW 4HE SEQUENCE THEN MOVES TO THE lRST LUNETTE ON THE RIGHT WALL WITH THE 2ESURRECTION OF THE $EAD SUMMONED BY THE TRUMPETS OF THE ANGELS DEPICTED ON HIGH 3IGNORELLI HERE DEPARTS FROM CONVENTION PAINTING THE lG URES EMERGING DRAMATICALLY FROM THE BARE EARTH RATHER THAN FROM TOMBS THE TRADITIONAL ICONOGRAPHY EMPLOYED IN DEPICTIONS OF THIS SCENE .OTE THE SMALL SCRATCHED lGURES AT THE CENTRE OF THE PANEL PROBABLY DRAWN BY 3IGNORELLI TO ILLUSTRATE SOME POINT TO THE CATHEDRAL COMMITTEE 4HE ADJOINING LUNETTE ON THE RIGHT WALL DEPICTS )NFERNO PROBABLY 3IGNORELLIS lRST COMPLETED FRESCO IN THE CHAPEL /N THE ALTAR WALL RIGHT OF THE WINDOW IS THE 0UNISHMENT OF THE $AMNED OR 0URGATORY WHICH IN ITS PORTRAYAL OF THE DAMNED INEVITABLY DRAWS ON $ANTES 4HE $IVINE #OMEDY BUT ALSO UTILIZES THE ICONOGRAPHY OF PAGAN WORKS SUCH AS THE BATTLE SCENES CARVED ON THE RELIEFS ON 4RAJANS #OLUMN IN 2OME 3IGNORELLIS MISTRESS IS AGAIN PROMINENTLY PAINTED THIS TIME AS THE lGURE AT THE CENTRE OF THE PICTURE BEING CARRIED BY A mYING WINGED DEVIL 4HE PANEL LEFT OF THE WINDOW SHOWS THE #ALLING OF THE 3AVED A PORTRAYAL THAT INCLUDES TWO OF /RVIETOS SAINTLY PROTECTORS #OSTANZO AND "RIZIO AT ITS CENTRE 3T -ICHAEL WEIGHING THE SOULS AND ANGELS SERENADING AND GUIDING THE ELECTED TO 0ARADISO THE SCENE PORTRAYED IN THE ADJOINING LUNETTE ON THE LEFT WALL )N THIS LAST MURAL 0ARADISES PEACE AND HARMONY ARE SYMBOLIZED BY A HEAVENLY CHOIR OF NINE ANGEL MUSICIANS AND n IN THE CENTRE n BY TWO ANGELS WHO SCATTER ROSES AND CAMELLIAS 4HESE mOWERS WERE PAINTED ONTO DRY PLASTER A LESS DURABLE TECHNIQUE THAN THE MORE USUAL PRACTICE OF ADDING PAINT TO WET PLASTER HENCE THEIR FADED APPEARANCE 4HE ALTARPIECE INCIDENTALLY IS THE -ADONNA DI 3AN "RIZIO AN ANONY MOUS WORK HELD BY TRADITION TO HAVE BEEN PAINTED BY 3T ,UKE BUT IN TRUTH PROBABLY EXECUTED TOWARDS THE END OF THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY
4HE #APPELLA DEL #ORPORALE AND THE APSE
4HE REST OF THE TOWN .OTHING IN /RVIETO CAN QUITE LIVE UP TO THE $UOMO BUT THEN NOR CAN MUCH ELSE IN CENTRAL )TALY THOUGH THE PIAZZA HAS A TREMENDOUS %TRUSCAN MUSEUM THE -USEO #LAUDIO &AINA AND A COUPLE OF OTHER WORTHWHILE SIGHTS 4HE DARK TUFA USED AS BUILDING STONE AROUND TOWN CAN MAKE PARTS SEEM A LITTLE DOUR DURING AIMLESS EXPLORATION PARTICULARLY IN POOR WEATHER BUT SOME OF THE TOWNS PERIPHERAL CORNERS PROVIDE ATTRACTIONS THAT MORE THAN JUSTIFY THE WALK n 3AN 'IOVENALE AND THE STRANGE 0OZZO DI 3AN 0ATRIZIO IN PARTICULAR 4RYING TO ARRANGE A LOGICAL ITINERARY IS DIFlCULT BUT AS DISTANCES ARE MODEST THE WALKINGS NOT TOO ONEROUS n THOUGH BE WARNED THAT THE TOWN DROPS SHARPLY AWAY ON ITS WESTERN SIDE SO EXPECT A STEEP WALK BACK TO THE CENTRE FROM THIS AREA
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4HE ARTISTIC PYROTECHNICS OF THE #APPELLA DI 3AN "RIZIO RATHER OVERSHADOW THE OPPOSITE TRANSEPTS #APPELLA DEL #ORPORALE WHICH CONTAINS THE SACRED CORPO RALE OF THE -IRACLE OF "OLSENA USUALLY LOCKED AWAY IN A MASSIVE JEWEL ENCRUSTED CASKET ON THE LEFT DESIGNED IN AS A COPY OF THE FACADE /N THE CHAPEL WALLS ARE EXTENSIVE FRESCOES n BY A LOCAL ARTIST 5GOLINO DI 0RETE )LARIO DEPICTING EPISODES FROM THE -IRACLE OF "OLSENA RIGHT HAND WALL AND VARIOUS -IRACLES OF THE 3ACRAMENT OPPOSITE 4HE CHAPEL ALSO HOUSES ON THE RIGHT THE GLORIOUS FREESTANDING -ADONNA DEI 2ACCOMANDATI BY THE 3IENESE PAINTER ,IPPO -EMMI 5GOLINO COVERED THE ENTIRE APSE IN FRESCOES n OF SCENES FROM THE ,IFE OF THE 6IRGIN MANY OF WHICH WERE TOUCHED UP BY 0INTURICCHIO WHO WAS EVENTUALLY KICKED OFF THE JOB FOR hCONSUMING TOO MUCH GOLD TOO MUCH AZURE AND TOO MUCH WINEv
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4HE OUTSTANDING FRESCOES AND MEDALLIONS NUMBERED TO ON THE LOWER PARTS OF THE WALLS ARE ALSO BY 3IGNORELLI AND INCLUDE PORTRAITS OF (OMER $ANTE /VID 6IRGIL (ORACE ,UCAN %MPEDOCLES AND OTHERS TOGETHER WITH EPISODES FROM CLASSICAL MYTH NOTABLY /VIDS -ETAMORPHOSES AND $ANTES $IVINE #OMEDY /F PARTICULAR NOTE IS THE 0IETÌ WITH 33 &AUSTINO AND 0IETRO 0ARENZO IN THE RECESS ON THE RIGHT 6ASARI CLAIMED THAT THE lGURE OF THE DEAD #HRIST WAS A CLOSE PORTRAIT OF 3IGNORELLIS OWN SON !NTONIO WHO DIED FROM THE PLAGUE IN WHILE THE ARTIST WAS EMPLOYED ON THE FRESCOES %VERYTHING HERE HAS A DIDACTIC PURPOSE FURTHER ILLUSTRATING OR DRAWING ALLU SIONS TO THE MAIN THEME OF THE FRESCOES ABOVE $ANTES $IVINE #OMEDY n WHICH IS FREQUENTLY EVOKED n FORMS AN OBVIOUS COROLLARY WITH ITS THEMES OF SALVATION AND DAMNATION %LSEWHERE HOWEVER 3IGNORELLI USES #LASSICAL MYTH AND LITERARY lGURES TO HIS OWN ENDS %MPEDOCLES FOR EXAMPLE IS SHOWN IN SHOCKED CONTEMPLATION OF THE END OF THE WORLD THOUGH HE IN FACT NEVER PROPHESIED SUCH AN EVENT 3OME CRITICS BELIEVE THIS IS ACTUALLY A lGURE OF A COMMON MAN WHO HAS NOT CONVERTED TO #HRISTIANITY AND LOOKS ON AT THE HORRORS THAT AWAIT HIM AS ONE OF THE DAMNED 4HE SEPARATE PORTRAIT OF 3TAZIO IS USED IN A SIMILAR WAY 4HE lGURE LOOKS TOWARDS THE CHAPELS HIGH ALTAR AS IF RECEIVING SPIRITUAL ILLUMI NATION BUT $ANTE WRITES THAT WHILE THE POET CONVERTED TO #HRISTIANITY HE KEPT HIS CONVERSION AND SUBSEQUENT FAITH A SECRET 4HROUGHOUT THE -IDDLE !GES THE lGURE WAS THEREFORE A SYMBOL OF SALVATION AND ALSO OF ONLY PARTIAL REDEMPTION n JUST THE SORT OF CHARACTER WHO WOULD HAVE BEEN COMPROMISED TO SAY THE LEAST COME THE $AY OF *UDGEMENT
5NDERGROUND /RVIETO #UT INTO THE CRAG BELOW THE TOWN ARE THE FASCINATING 'ROTTE DELLA 2UPE AN EXTRAOR DINARY HONEYCOMB OF CAVES WINE CELLARS AQUEDUCTS QUARRIES AND TUNNELS USED n AND ADDED TO n SINCE %TRUSCAN TIMES ! STAGGERING SEPARATE CAVES HAVE BEEN FOUND BENEATH /RVIETO AROUND A THIRD OF THE ENTIRE AREA UNDER THE TOWN HAVING BEEN EXCAVATED AT ONE TIME OR ANOTHER 'UIDED TOURS IN %NGLISH ARE RUN BY /RVIETO 5NDER GROUND LEAVING FROM THE TOURIST OFlCE DAILY AM PM PM PM + OR WWWORVIETOUNDERGROUND IT CALL FOR DETAILS OR TO MAKE ADVANCE BOOKINGS ALTHOUGH YOU CAN JUST TURN UP AND HOPE TO GET ON A TOUR 4HE 0OZZO DELLA #AVA 6IA DELLA #AVA 4UESn3UN AMnPM WWWPOZZODELLACAVAIT + OR + FOR HOLDERS OF TICKETS FOR BUSES FUNICULAR 0OZZO DI 3AN 0ATRIZIO OR -USEO %MILIO 'RECO IS A LARGE SMOOTH SIDED %TRUSCAN ERA WELL ONE OF ABOUT FORTY FOUND AROUND THE TOWN )TS A SLIGHTLY CYNICAL MONEY MAKING EXERCISE n IT USED TO BE FREE n BUT STRIKING ENOUGH IF YOU HAVENT TIME FOR THE FULL UNDERGROUND TOUR
0IAZZA DEL $UOMO
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\ /RVIETO
"ESIDE THE $UOMO STANDS THE 0ALAZZO 3OLIANO OR 0ALAZZO DEI 0API BEGUN FOR 0OPE "ONIFACE 6))) IN &OR YEARS IT HAS BEEN HOME TO THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO A MUSEUM THAT WAS CLOSED FOR YEARS AND HAS ONLY RECENTLY BEEN REOPENED AFTER RESTORATION ON A RATHER AD HOC BASIS &OR THE CUR RENT SITUATION CONTACT THE TOURIST OFlCE OR NEARBY /PERA DEL $UOMO OFlCE AT 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO OR VISIT WWWOPSMIT (IGHLIGHTS OF THE MUSEUM COLLECTION INCLUDE SOME TOPNOTCH PAINTINGS NOTABLY A SELF PORTRAIT BY 3IGNORELLI A -ADONNA AND #HILD BY THE INmUENTIAL EARLY 4USCAN PAINTER #OPPO DI -ARCOVALDO AND lVE PARTS OF A POLYPTYCH FROM 3AN $OMENICO BY THE 3IENESE MASTER 3IMONE -ARTINI !MONG THE SCULPTURES ARE WOODEN AND MAR BLE -ADONNAS BY .INO 'IOVANNI AND !NDREA 0ISANO A LOVELY FONT lLLED WITH %SCHER LIKE lSHES AND UNlNISHED BUT IMPORTANT PIECES BY !RNOLFO DI #AMBIO /N THE GROUND mOOR OF THE MUSEUM IS A SECTION DEVOTED TO %MILIO 'RECO WHO CREATED THE $UOMOS BRONZE DOORS IN THE S DAILY AMnPM nPM /CTn-ARCH AMnPM nPM + JOINT TICKET hBIGLIETTO CUMULATIVOv WITH 0OZZO DI 3AN 0ATRIZIO + /N DISPLAY ARE NEARLY A HUNDRED WORKS DONATED TO THE CITY BY THE ARTIST .ONE OF THEM IS PROFOUNDLY INTERESTING UNLESS YOURE A 'RECO ENTHUSIAST PEEK THROUGH THE DOOR BEYOND THE TICKET OFlCE AND YOULL SEE ENOUGH OF THE EXHIBITS TO KNOW IF YOU WANT A CLOSER LOOK 4HE 0ALAZZO 0APALE BEYOND THE CATHEDRALS EAST END HOUSES THE UNREMARKABLE -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO .AZIONALE DAILY AMnPM + JOINT TICKET WITH .ECROPOLI %TRUSCA OR #ROCIlSSO DEL 4UFO + WHICH CONTAINS FOURTH CENTURY "# 'REEK VASES TWO RECONSTRUCTED PAINTED TOMBS WITH THEIR ORIGINAL MURALS AND OTHER %TRUSCAN ARTEFACTS EXCAVATED DURING DIGS AT /RVIETOS OWN #ANNICELLA AND #ROCIlSSO DEL 4UFO TOMBS 4HE -USEO #LAUDIO &AINA
9OURE BETTER OFF SPENDING YOUR MONEY ON THE -USEO #LAUDIO &AINA INCOR PORATING THE -USEO #IVICO AND -USEO DEI 2AGAZZI OPPOSITE THE $UOMO !PRILn3EPT DAILY AMnPM /CT -ARCH DAILY AMnPM .OVn&EB 4UESn3UN AMnPM + REOPENED AFTER A RENOVATION PROJECT WHICH HAS TURNED A PREVIOUSLY DULL MUSEUM INTO A WONDERFUL SHOWCASE FOR ONE OF )TALYS LEADING PRIVATE ARCHEOLOGICAL COLLECTIONS )TS WORTH THE ADMISSION PRICE SIMPLY FOR A VIEW OF THE $UOMO FROM THE UPPER mOOR 4HE CORE OF THE COLLECTION IS VASES GIVEN IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY TO -AURO &AINA A 0ERUGIAN COUNT
7EST TO 3AN 'IOVENALE
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4HE TINY 2OMANESQUE 3AN ,ORENZO DE !RARI OR DELL!RA A SHORT WALK WEST OF THE $UOMO WAS BUILT IN ON THE SITE OF A CHURCH DESTROYED BY MONKS FROM NEARBY 3AN &RANCESCO BECAUSE THE SOUND OF ITS BELLS GOT ON THEIR NERVES &OUR RESTORED FRESCOES ON THE LEFT OF THE NAVE DEPICT TRAUMATIC SCENES FROM THE ,IFE OF 3T ,AWRENCE INCLUDING EXECUTION BY ROASTING AND THERES A "YZANTINE INmUENCED #HRIST %NTHRONED WITH &OUR 3AINTS IN THE APSE !N %TRUS CAN SACRIlCIAL SLAB RATHER ODDLY SERVES AS THE ALTAR ARARI FROM WHICH THE CHURCH DERIVES ITS NAME &ROM NEARBY 0IAZZALE #ACCIATORE THERES A GOOD WALK AROUND THE CITYS SOUTH ERN WALLS ALONG 6IA 2IPA -EDICI WITH VIEWS OVER TO A PROMINENT OUTCROP OF ROCK IN THE MID DISTANCE PART OF THE OLD VOLCANIC CRATER %N ROUTE STOP BY THE EXCELLENT %NOTECA 2EGIONALE 6IA 2IPA 3ERANCIA -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM WINE TASTING TOURS MID !PRIL TO MID 3EPT DAILY AM PM REST OF YEAR DAILY PM CHECK FOR LATEST TIMES 4O LEARN MORE OR TO VISIT LOCAL VINEYARDS CONTACT THE #ONSORZIO 4UTELA 6INO #ORSO #AVOUR 4EN MINUTES OR SO FARTHER WEST n WITH A BIG DROP TO THE 0ORTA -AGGIORE AND A CLIMB UP AGAIN n IS THE ANCIENT 3AN 'IOVENALE SET AMID RUSTIC SURROUNDINGS ON THE WESTERN TIP OF /RVIETOS PLATEAU YOU MIGHT ALSO APPROACH THIS PART OF
/2 6 ) % 4/ ! .$ 3 / 5 4 ( % 2 . 5 - "2 ) ! /RVIETO
BY 0RINCESS -ARIA "ONAPARTE .APOLEONS GRANDNIECE THE COUNT HAD BEEN A REGULAR hVISITORv TO THE PRINCESSS HOME /VER THE YEARS &AINA TOGETHER WITH HIS NEPHEW ADDED OBSESSIVELY TO THE COLLECTION WHICH WAS LEFT TO THE CITY IN 4HE EXHIBITS SPREAD OVER ROOMS ON TWO UPPER mOORS OF THE 0ALAZZO &AINA PLUS A SMALL GROUND mOOR CIVIC COLLECTION ARRANGED IN A MODERN MUSEUM SET TING THAT WOULD BE THE ENVY OF FAR GRANDER GALLERIES (IGHLIGHTS INCLUDE THREE VAST SIXTH CENTURY "# !TTIC AMPHORAE ROOM ATTRIBUTED TO %XEKIAS ONE OF ANTIQUITYS lNEST VASE PAINTERS n THEIR PRESENCE IN /RVIETO TESTIMONY TO THE TOWNS PROSPERITY AT THE TIME !LSO FAMOUS IS THE SO CALLED 6ANTH GROUP ROOMS AND THE NAME GIVEN TO A COLLECTION OF POTS MADE LOCALLY IN THE LAST TWO DECADES OF THE FOURTH CENTURY "# 6ANTH WAS AN IMPORTANT FEMALE DIVINITY ASSOCIATED WITH THE %TRUSCAN UNDERWORLD OFTEN POR TRAYED WITH TWO SERPENTS AROUND EACH ARM AND IN THE MANNER OF MEDIEVAL SAINTS WITH SYMBOLS SUCH AS KEYS TAPER MANTLE AND SCROLL THE LAST PARTIALLY UNROLLED TO REVEAL THE NAME OF THE GODDESS !S HERE SHE WAS OFTEN PORTRAYED GREETING THE RECENTLY DECEASED ON THEIR ARRIVAL IN THE UNDERWORLD 4HERE ARE ALSO MANY BLACK BUCCHERO VASES ROOMS AND SO CALLED BECAUSE AT THE TIME OF THEIR DISCOVERY THEY WERE THOUGHT TO RESEMBLE VASES FROM 3OUTH !MERICA KNOWN TO THE 3PANISH AS BUCARO 4HE BLACK COLOUR WAS IMPARTED IN THE KILN WHERE THE lRING PROCESS OXIDIZED IRON COMPOUNDS IN SPECIALLY CHOSEN CLAY 1UALITY DECLINED AROUND THE lFTH CENTURY "# THE RESULT OF INSUFlCIENTLY PURE CLAYS A SHORTFALL THAT RESULTED IN BUCCHERO GRIGIO OR GREY WARE GRADUALLY REPLACED BY SIMPLE BLACK GLAZED POTTERY ! SIMILAR FALLING OFF OF QUAL ITY OCCURRED WITH THE FAMILIAR BLACK lGURE !TTIC VASES ROOMS AND INVENTED IN #ORINTH AROUND "# AND MADE BY PAINTING A lGURE IN BLACK SIL HOUETTE BEFORE INCISING DETAIL SO THAT THE LIGHTER COLOURED CLAY BENEATH SHOWED THROUGH 3UCH POTTERY WAS WILDLY POPULAR THROUGHOUT THE -EDITERRANEAN BUT NO MARKET WAS AS LARGE AS 4YRRHENIAN %TRURIA )T WAS EVENTUALLY REPLACED BY !TTIC RED lGURE POTTERY ROOMS AND INVENTED IN !THENS AROUND "# IN WHICH lGURES AND DECORATIVE DETAILS WERE COMPOSED IN THE CLAY AND THE REST OF THE POT PAINTED BLACK 4HE MUSEUM ALSO HAS A LARGE COLLECTION OF COINS BRONZES AND MISCELLANEOUS FUNERARY OBJECTS
TOWN FROM 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA AND THE NORTHWEST TANGLE OF STREETS TO AVOID THE SLOPES .EW STUDIES HAVE ESTABLISHED THE PREVIOUSLY ACCEPTED DATE OF ITS FOUNDATION n n AS THE DATE OF ITS lRST RESTORATION )TS NOT MUCH TO LOOK AT FROM OUTSIDE BUT THE MUSTY INTERIOR IS A DISTINCTIVE HYBRID OF A CHURCH THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY 'OTHIC TRANSEPT WITH ITS TWO POINTED ARCHES STANDING RATHER ODDLY A METRE ABOVE THE ROUNDED 2OMANESQUE NAVE "EAUTIFUL THIRTEENTH AND lFTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES COVER ALL AVAILABLE SURFACES THEY INCLUDE A 4REE OF ,IFE TO THE RIGHT OF THE MAIN DOOR AND THE MACABRE #ALENDAR OF &UNERAL !NNIVERSARIES PARTLY COVERED BY THE SIDE ENTRANCE -AKE THE WALK WORTHWHILE BY TAKING IN THE GLORIOUS VIEW FROM THE TOWN WALL JUST TO THE WEST OR BY FOLLOWING THE WALL TOP LANE 6IA 6OLSINIA )) DOWN TOWARDS THE 0ORTA -AGGIORE /THERWISE FROM 3AN 'IOVENALE BACK TO THE CEN TRE OF TOWN 6IA -ALABRANCA AND 6IA &ILIPPESCHI ARE THE BEST PRESERVED OF THE MEDIEVAL STREETS 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA AND AROUND
/2 6 ) % 4/ ! .$ 3 / 5 4 ( % 2 . 5 - "2 ) !
\ /RVIETO
"ACK IN THE HEART OF TOWN 3ANT !NDREA IN 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA IS WORTH A LOOK FOR ITS TWELVE SIDED CAMPANILE ODD PATCHES OF FRESCO AND PIECES OF 2OMAN AND %TRUSCAN CITY IN THE CRYPT &OR AN OVERVIEW OF THE TOWN CLIMB THE MEDIEVAL 4ORRE DEL -ORO NOT FAR EAST OF THE CHURCH AT #ORSO #AVOUR DAILY -AYn!UG AMnPM -ARCH !PRIL 3EPT /CT AMnPM .OVn&EB AMnPM nPM + 4HE BELL UP HERE IS ENGRAVED WITH THE SYMBOLS OF /RVIETOS MEDIEVAL GUILDS AND WAS CAST IN ITS BEEN TOLLING EVERY lFTEEN MINUTES EVER SINCE .OT TO BE MISSED NEARBY ON THE CORNER OF 0IAZZA DEL 0OPOLO IS !LDA 6IA 3AN ,EONARDO AN EXCEPTIONAL ANTIQUE SHOP HOUSED IN A SENSATIONAL SPACE TWO FORMER CHURCHES 3AN #ARLO AND 3AN "ERNARDO WHICH ARE COVERED IN SUPERB FRESCOES 4HE PLACE IS VIRTUALLY UNKNOWN TO OUTSIDERS AND KEEPS IRREGULAR HOURS TO BE SURE OF GETTING A PEEK VISIT ON MARKET DAYS 4HURS 3AT IN THE PIAZZA WHEN THE OWNERS ARE ALMOST ALWAYS ON HAND .ORTHEAST OF 0IAZZA DEL 0OPOLO 3AN $OMENICO STANDS NEXT TO A &ASCIST ERA BARRACKS n FAR AND AWAY THE UGLIEST BUILDING IN THE TOWN (ALF OF THE CHURCH BUILT BETWEEN AND AND THUS )TALYS lRST CHURCH TO BE DEDICATED TO 3T $OMINIC WAS SLICED OFF DURING THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE BARRACKS 4HE PRINCI PAL ARTWORK IS THE 4OMB OF #ARDINAL DE "RAYE DIED A PIONEERING WORK BY !RNOLFO DI #AMBIO IN THE #APPELLA 0ETRUCCI ENTERED VIA A DOOR ON THE SOUTH RIGHT WALL 4HIS DElNED THE FORMAT OF WALL TOMBS FOR THE NEXT CENTURY SHOW ING THE DECEASED LYING ON A COFlN BELOW THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITHIN AN ELABORATE ARCHITECTURAL FRAMEWORK 4HE 0OZZO DI 3AN 0ATRIZIO AND THE 2OCCA
/RVIETOS NOVELTY ACT IS THE HUGE CYLINDRICAL WELL KNOWN AS THE 0OZZO DI 3AN 0ATRIZIO DAILY AMnPM /CTn-ARCH CLOSES PM + JOINT TICKET WITH THE %MILIO 'RECO SECTION OF THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO + SIGNPOSTED BESIDE THE FUNICULAR TERMINUS IN 0IAZZA #AHEN EAST OF THE CENTRE 0OPE #LEMENT 6)) COMMISSIONED IT FROM !NTONIO DA 3ANGALLO THE 9OUNGER TWO YEARS AFTER THE 3ACK OF 2OME WHICH HED BEEN FORCED TO mEE DISGUISED AS A GREENGROCER !N ATTACK ON /RVIETO WAS EXPECTED FROM THE IMPERIAL TROOPS AND THE WELL WAS DESIGNED TO GUARANTEE THE TOWNS WATER SUPPLY DURING A SIEGE 4HE ATTACK NEVER MATERIALIZED n WHICH WAS FORTUNATE AS IT TOOK TEN YEARS OF DIGGING TO HIT WATER )T WAS WHILE IN /RVIETO THAT #LEMENT TOOK THE FATEFUL DECISION NOT TO ANNUL (ENRY 6)))S MARRIAGE TO #ATHERINE OF !RAGON 4HE WELL IS A VIRTUOSO PIECE OF ENGINEERING M WIDE AND M DEEP AND TAKES ITS NAME FROM A SUPPOSED RESEMBLANCE TO THE )RISH CAVE WHERE 3T 0ATRICK
DIED AT THE RIPE OLD AGE OF 7ATER WAS BROUGHT TO THE SURFACE BY DONKEYS ON TWO BROAD STEP STAIRCASES CANNILY DESIGNED IN A DOUBLE HELIX SO THAT THEY NEVER INTERSECT (ALF THE WELL IS CARVED FROM SOLID TUFA HALF IS BRICK LINED AND THE WHOLE THING IS LIT BY STRANGE WINDOWS CUT FROM THE SPIRALS INTO THE CENTRAL SHAFT )N )TALY SKINmINTS ARE SAID TO HAVE hPOCKETS AS DEEP AS THE 0OZZO DI 3AN 0ATRIZIOv 4HE DIRECT RECIPIENT OF THE WATER FROM THE POZZO WAS THE NEARBY 2OCCA BUILT IN BY #ARDINAL !LBORNOZ THE PAPAL lREBAND RECRUITED TO RESTORE #HURCH AUTHORITY ACROSS CENTRAL )TALY 6IEWS FROM THE RUINS ARE WONDERFUL NEARBY ARE THE SMALL BUT PLEASANT PUBLIC GARDENS ONE OF /RVIETOS FEW PATCHES OF GREEN AND HOME TO THE PROMINENT REMAINS OF AN %TRUSCAN TEMPLE THE 4EMPIO DEL "ELVEDERE 4HE CASTLE ITSELF WAS BUILT OVER THE ONLY STRATUM OF TRAVERTINE IN THE TOWN A ROBUST PIECE OF ROCK THAT ESCAPES THE LANDSLIPS WHICH STRIKE THE TUFA WITH INCREASING REGULARITY $EFOLIATION THE COLLAPSE OF ANCIENT SEWERS THE LOWERING OF THE WATER TABLE AND THE INTENSIlCATION OF TRAFlC CULMINATED IN DISASTROUS SLIPS DURING AND lNALLY PROMPTING THE APPROVAL OF VAST FUNDS FROM THE %UROPEAN 5NION -ILES OF TUNNELS AND CAVES DATING BACK TO THE %TRUSCANS STILL HONEYCOMB THE ROCK A LABYRINTH ONCE USED FOR QUARRYING BURIALS AND THE FERMENTING OF WINE THE SUBTERRANEAN CONDITIONS WERE SAID TO BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE EXCELLENCE OF /RVIETOS VINTAGES -ODERN METHODS NOW MAKE A DRIER PROD UCT BETTER SELLING BUT LESS EXALTED THAN THE TRADITIONAL SEMI SWEET ABBOCCATO 4HE .ECROPOLI %TRUSCA
%ATING AND DRINKING
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/RVIETOS TOURIST TRAFlC ONCE INmATED PRICES IN THE TOWNS MANY RESTAURANTS AND FOR YEARS IT HAS HAD FEWER GENUINE CULINARY HIGH SPOTS THAN NEIGHBOURING TOWNS /VER THE PAST FEW YEARS HOWEVER A CROP OF GOOD SMALL TRATTORIE HAS OPENED TOGETHER WITH A SELECTION OF EXCELLENT MORE UPMARKET PLACES #HEAPER PIZZERIE ARE MOSTLY CLUSTERED TOGETHER AT THE VERY EASTERN END OF #ORSO #AVOUR &OR ICE CREAM THE BEST BET IS THE 'ELATERIA 0ASQUALETTI WHICH HAS OUTLETS TO THE LEFT OF THE CATHEDRAL AS YOU FACE IT AT 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO AND AT #ORSO #AVOUR 4HERE ARE PLENTY OF BARS WITH OBVIOUS KEY SITES FOR WATCHING THE WORLD GO BY IN FRONT OF THE $UOMO AND IN 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA THOUGH THE MOST PRESTIGIOUS BAR IN TOWN FOUNDED IN IS -ONTANUCCI AT #ORSO #AVOUR !LSO GOOD IF ONLY BECAUSE ITS QUIET AND YOU CAN WHILE AWAY A SIESTA IN THE SHADE OF TWO lNE TREES OUTSIDE IS THE "AR DEL 4EATRO IN 0IAZZA &RACASSINI )F YOU WANT TO BUY FOOD FOR PICNICS OR TO TAKE HOME HEAD FOR ,A 'ASTRONOMIA #ARRARO #ORSO #AVOUR OR %NOTECA ,A ,OGGIA 6IA -ERCANTI WHICH HAS A GOOD SELECTION OF WINE AND JAMS PRESERVES AND OTHER PRODUCE ,A "OTTEGA DEL 4ORTELLINO #ORSO #AVOUR PRODUCES GREAT FRESH PASTA )F ALL YOU WANT IS PIZZA ON THE HOOF THERES A PIZZA TAGLIA BY THE SLICE TO TAKE AWAY OUTLET AT 6IA 3IGNORELLI
/2 6 ) % 4/ ! .$ 3 / 5 4 ( % 2 . 5 - "2 ) ! /RVIETO
4HE .ECROPOLI %TRUSCA OR #ROCIlSSO DEL 4UFO DAILY AMnPM /CTn-ARCH CLOSES PM + JOINT TICKET WITH -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO + n A SET OF SIXTH CENTURY "# %TRUSCAN TOMBS n ARE WELL WORTH A LOOK WALK OR DRIVE DOWN THE TOWNS APPROACH ROAD FROM 0IAZZA #AHEN OR FROM 0ORTA -AGGIORE ON THE TOWNS WEST SIDE TO THE SMALL CAR PARK ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE ROAD AND FOLLOW THE SIGNS 4HERE ARE ROWS OF MASSIVE AND SOMBRE STONE GRAVES MORE ARE BEING EXCAVATED THOUGH NONE HAS THE GRANDEUR OR THE PAINTINGS OF THE MORE FAMOUS NECROPOLISES IN 4ARQUINIA OR #ERVETERI 3TILL VISIBLE HOWEVER ARE %TRUSCAN INSCRIPTIONS ABOVE THE TOMB ENTRANCES THOUGHT TO REFER TO THE NAMES OF THE ERSTWHILE OCCUPANTS
/2 6 ) % 4/ ! .$ 3 / 5 4 ( % 2 . 5 - "2 ) !
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!NTICA #ANTINA #ORSO #AVOUR0IAZZA -ONALDESCHI n /NE OF THE BEST PLACES ON THE #ORSO REASONABLY PRICED AND WITH A SELF PRO CLAIMED OLD FASHIONED TRATTORIA ATMOSPHERE AND FOOD COME UNA VOLTA hAS IT WAS IN THE PASTv 6ERY POPULAR WITH LOCALS ESPECIALLY AT LUNCH 4HERE IS A SET MENU AT + AND A HANDFUL OF OUTSIDE TABLES #LOSED 7ED #2!-34 ALSO KNOWN AS !L 3AN &RANCESCO 6IA ,ORENZO -AITANI 6IA " #ERRETTI 6ERY POPULAR WITH LOCALS THIS IS A CO OPERATIVELY RUN SEAT CANTEEN AFFAIR OFFERING A CHOICE BETWEEN A RESTAURANT EVENINGS AND SELF SERVICE TRATTORIA VERY GOOD VALUE #LOSED 3UN %TRUSCA 6IA ,ORENZO -AITANI ! FAIRLY SERIOUS AND TRADI TIONAL LOOKING RESTAURANT WITH A MEDIEVAL VAULTED DINING ROOM n lRST CHOICE IN THIS CATEGORY WITH RELAXED ATMOSPHERE AND SERVICE AND SURPRISINGLY FAIR PRICES FOR TOP NOTCH 5MBRIAN SPECIALITIES "E SURE TO GO DOWNSTAIRS TO SEE THE WINE CELLARS CARVED OUT OF SOLID TUFA #LOSED -ON MID *AN TO MID &EB 'IGLI D/RO 0IAZZA DEL $UOMO #OOKING HERE IS HARDLY ORIGINAL BUT THE QUALITYS ALWAYS HIGH WHAT YOURE PAYING FOR THOUGH ARE ELEGANT SURROUNDINGS AND THE PLEASURE OF DINING IN THE SHADOW OF THE $UOMO #LOSED 7ED ) 3ETTE #ONSOLI 0IAZZA 3ANT!NGELO A (IGHLY RATED BY )TALIAN RESTAURANT GUIDES FOR ITS MORE THAN USUALLY REASONABLE FOOD IT HAS ONLY COVERS BUT THE DINING ROOM IS A LITTLE AUSTERE ! DEGUSTAZIONE MENU WITH THREE WINES AND lVE COURSES IS AVAILABLE AT + &INE IF ITS BUSY BUT
OTHERWISE ,A 6OLPE E ,5VA SHOULD BE YOUR lRST CHOICE AMONG THE NEW WAVE TRATTORIE #LOSED 7ED DINNER ON 3UN A PERIOD IN &EB OR -ARCH ,A "UCA DI "ACCO #ORSO #AVOUR n !LMOST OPPOSITE !NTICA #ANTINA MILDLY MORE FORMAL BUT ALSO IN THE lRST RANK OF /RVIETOS TRADITIONAL RESTAU RANTS #LOSED 4UES ,A 'ROTTA 6IA 3IGNORELLI *UST OFF 6IA DEL $UOMO AND A FEW STEPS DOWN FROM THE HOTEL 0OSTA THIS IS A GOOD VALUE AND FRIENDLY TRAT TORIA OFFERING RELIABLE )TALIAN STAPLES #LOSED 4UES PARTS OF LATE *AN LATE *ULY ,A 6OLPE E ,5VA 6IA 2IPA #ORSICA ! VERY GOOD AND POPULAR TRATTORIA OFFERING TRADITIONAL COOKING n THE MENU IF ANYTHING IS ALMOST TOO LONG n AND GREAT VALUE FOR MONEY ! TOUCH BIGGER AND CHEAPER THAN ) 3ETTE #ONSOLI AND AN AWFUL LOT MORE RELAXED AND WELCOMING ALTHOUGH THERE ARE STILL ONLY TWO ROOMS ONE FOR NON SMOKERS #LOSED -ON 4UES -ARCH -AURIZIO 6IA DEL $UOMO 4HE SMART LOOKING MODERN INTERIOR MAY BE OFF PUTTING BUT THE FOOD HERE IS GOOD IF YOURE PREPARED TO PAY FOR MORE THAN JUST THE BASICS 7ELL KNOWN BUT SOMEWHAT OVERTAKEN BY NEWER AND CHEAPER RIVALS #LOSED 4UES 4RATTORIA DELL/RSO 6IA DELLA -ISERICORDIA n &RIENDLY AND VERY SNUG TWO ROOMED PLACE WITH SIMPLE INTERIOR AND A HANDFUL OF TABLES 4HIS IS /RVIETOS OLDEST RESTAURANT AND LITTLE HAS CHANGED OVER THE YEARS CERTAINLY NOT THE TRADITIONAL AND EXCELLENT LOCAL COOKING GOOD VALUE FOR MONEY #LOSED -ON 4UES
,ISTINGS (OSPITAL ,OCALITÌ #ICONIA /RVIETO 3CALO 0OLICE #ARABINIERI 0IAZZA !NGELO D/RVIETO 0OLIZIA -UNICIPALE 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA
0OST OFlCE 6IA #ESARE .EBBIA OFF #ORSO #AVOUR -ONn3AT AMnPM LAST DAY OF THE MONTH AMnNOON 4AXIS 0IAZZA -ATTEOTTI /RVIETO 3CALO 0IAZZA DELLA 2EPUBBLICA
!ROUND /RVIETO 4HE ENVIRONS OF /RVIETO ARE NOT THE MOST COMPELLING IN 5MBRIA (OWEVER IF YOU HAVE TRANSPORT AND TIME TO SPARE -ONTE 0EGLIA MIGHT MAKE YOU DALLY EN ROUTE TO 4ODI OR 0ERUGIA AS MIGHT THE ,AGO DI #ORBARA ON THE WAY TO 4ODI AND #ITTÌ DELLA 0IEVE IF YOURE HEADING TO -ONTEPULCIANO 4HE ROAD WEST TO ,AGO DI "OLSENA n WHICH LIES ACROSS THE BORDER IN ,AZIO n GIVES SOME OF THE BEST VIEWS OF /RVIETO ITS WHERE THE POSTCARD SHOTS ARE TAKEN FROM AND WHERE 4URNER SET UP HIS EASEL FOR A LANDSCAPE THAT NOW RESIDES IN THE 4ATE IN ,ONDON 4HE WOODED POCKET OF COUNTRYSIDE AROUND #ASTEL 'IORGIO IS PRETTY ENOUGH BUT ONLY WORTH BOTHERING WITH IF YOURE IN A CAR
-ONTE 0EGLIA
-ONTE 0EGLIA IS THE NAME FOR THE TRIANGULAR EXPANSE OF WILD SPARSE LAND THAT RISES BETWEEN THE #HIANI VALLEY AND THE 4IBER NORTHEAST OF /RVIETO 7ITH ITS HILLTOP HAMLETS OLIVE GROVES VINES HERDS OF WHITE OXEN AND MILES OF DESERTED ROADS AND TRACKS THIS IS THE ARCHETYPE OF PASTORAL LOWLAND 5MBRIA 6ILLAGES MARKED ON THE MAPS OFTEN TURN OUT TO BE NO MORE THAN SCATTERED FARMS MANY OF THEM ABANDONED 9OULL GET THE BEST QUICK TASTE OF THE AREA ON THE CIRCUITOUS AND BEAUTIFULLY DESERTED 33BIS ROAD FROM /RVIETO 3CALO TO 4ODI 3UPERB INITIAL VIEWS PETER OUT AS THE ROAD CLIMBS THROUGH HAIRPINS INTO DENSELY WOODED HILL COUNTRY n THOUGH HAZE ALLOWING THERE ARE OCCASIONAL GLIMPSES AS FAR AS 0ERUGIA 4HE PICTURESQUE CASTLE AT 02/$/ IS PERHAPS THE BEST VANTAGE POINT 4HE BEST OF THE SCENERY IS NORTH OF THIS ROAD AND SOMETHING OF A WILDLIFE HAVEN ITS HIGH POINT THE SUMMIT OF -ONTE 0EGLIA ITSELF M ,AGO DI #ORBARA
#ITTÌ DELLA 0IEVE
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9OU CAN EASILY SEE #)44° $%,,! 0)%6% KM NORTH OF /RVIETO ON THE ! OR KM VIA THE PRETTIER WINDING 33 IN AN HOUR DESPITE THE VAGUE ENTICEMENT OF THE DISTANT VIEW 4RAVELLING BY RAIL ITS DElNITELY NOT WORTH THE LONG HAUL UP FROM THE TRAIN STATION UNLESS YOURE A COMMITTED FAN OF 0ERUGINO THE TOWNS MOST ILLUSTRIOUS SON BORN HERE IN 3TRAGGLING IMPRESSIVELY ALONG ITS METRE HIGH RIDGE THE TOWN FOUNDED BY THE %TRUSCANS CONSISTS OF TINY RED BRICK HOUSES THERE BEING NO LOCAL BUILDING STONE AND NARROW STREETS ONE OF WHICH 6IA DELLA "ACIADONNA CLAIMS TO BE THE NARROWEST IN )TALY n THE WIDTH OF A WOMANS KISS THE NAME SUGGESTS OR SO NARROW THAT YOU ARE PRESSED SO CLOSE YOU HAVE NO OPTION BUT TO KISS ANYONE YOU PASS 6IA 'ARIBALDI AND 6IA 6ITTORIO 6ENETO MAKE UP THE MAIN EASTnWEST AXIS MEETING IN THE LINKED CENTRAL SQUARES OF 0IAZZA 'RAMSCI AND 0IAZZA DEL 0LEBISCITO WHERE YOULL lND THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY $UOMO 4HIS HAS A COUPLE OF LATE WORKS THAT SHOW 0ERUGINO IN HIS WORST LIGHT THE "APTISM OF #HRIST ON THE lRST ALTAR OF THE NORTH LEFT AISLE AND THE -ADONNA %NTHRONED WITH 33 0ETER 0AUL 'ERVASIO AND 0ROTASIO IN THE APSE THE ORIGINAL NINTH CENTURY PARISH CHURCH OR PIEVE WHICH GAVE THE TOWN ITS NAME ON THE SITE OF THE $UOMO WAS DEDICATED TO THE LAST TWO SAINTS 4HE SAME SQUARE CONTAINS THE 4ORRE DEL 0UBBLICO THIRTEENTH CENTURY 2OMAN
/2 6 ) % 4/ ! .$ 3 / 5 4 ( % 2 . 5 - "2 ) ! !ROUND /RVIETO
4HE SCENIC 33 FROM /RVIETO TO 4ODI PASSES MEDIEVAL "ASCHI AND RUNS ALONG THE mATTISH SOUTHERN SHORE OF ,AGO DI #ORBARA BEFORE TAKING OFF INTO AN UNEXPECTEDLY DRAMATIC GORGE FOR THE REST OF THE ROUTE ON TO 4ODI #LOSE TO THE LAKES SOUTHERN TIP ENCLOSED ON THREE SIDES BY WATER STANDS ,A 0ENISULO 0IAN DELLE -ONACHE A BEAUTIFUL HOTEL RESORT SET IN A TWENTY ACRE ESTATE IT HAS TWELVE ROOMS IN CONVERTED NINETEENTH CENTURY FARM BUILDINGS A POOL AND LOTS OF OPPORTUNITIES FOR OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES THEYLL EVEN RENT YOU A CAR "EYOND MIDWAY DOWN THE SHORE IS THE 6ISSANI RESTAURANT WWWCASAVISSANIIT CLOSED 3UN EVE 7ED 4HURS LUNCH AND WEEKS DURING *ULY !UG RATED BY VIRTUALLY EVERY )TALIAN GASTRONOMIC GUIDE AS ONE OF THE lNEST IN )TALY BOOKING IS OBLIGATORY AND YOULL NEED TO BE READY TO PART WITH AROUND + A HEAD "E PREPARED TO DRESS THE PART AND EXPECT CONSIDERABLE FORMALITY NOT TO SAY A RATHER PRECIOUS ATTITUDE &URTHER EAST THE LAKESIDE SCENERY IMPROVES CONSIDERABLY THE STRANGE PURPLE RED ROCKS OF THE GORGE CONTRASTING WITH THE FORESTED SLOPES 4HE ROADS FAIRLY QUIET WITH PLENTY OF CAMPING AND PICNIC OPPORTUNITIES AS THE VALLEY mATTENS OUT TOWARDS 4ODI
/2 6 ) % 4/ ! .$ 3 / 5 4 ( % 2 . 5 - "2 ) !
ESQUE AT THE BASE BUILT IN TRAVERTINE AND lFTEENTH CENTURY 'OTHIC HIGHER UP !LSO HERE ARE THE 0ALAZZO DEI 0RIORI AND OPPOSITE THE $UOMO THE 0ALA ZZO DELLA #ORGNA DAILY *UNEn3EPT AMnPM nPM /CTn-AY AMnPM nPM + BEGUN IN FOR !SCANIO DELLA #ORGNA WHOSE UNCLE 0OPE *ULIUS ))) HAD THOUGHTFULLY MADE HIM GOVERNOR OF THE TOWN FOR LIFE )T CONTAINS SOME HALF DECENT SIXTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES BY 3ALVIO 3AVINI AND 0OMARANCIO THE SECOND ANOTHER PAINTER BORN IN THE TOWN !T THE FOOT OF THE MAIN STAIRS IS A SMALL SANDSTONE OBELISK THOUGHT TO BE AN %TRUSCAN SUNDIAL FROM THE SIXTH CENTURY "# !LSO WORTH A LOOK IS THE 0ALAZZO "ANDINI AND ITS lNE 2ENAISSANCE PORTAL BEHIND THE $UOMO WHICH FRONTS 6IA 2OMA THE lRST RIGHT TURN AS YOU WALK UP 6IA 6ITTORIO 6ENETO TO THE NORTHEAST FROM THE CATHEDRAL SQUARE #ONTINUE DOWN 6IA 2OMA AND THROUGH 0ORTA DEL 6ACCIANO OR 2OMANA AND M FROM THE SQUARE AFTER PASSING A CHURCH ON THE RIGHT DEDICATED TO 'IACOMO 6ILLA A SEVENTEENTH CENTURY BEATIlC YOU COME ON YOUR LEFT TO 3ANTA -ARIA DEI 3ERVI RARELY OPEN WHICH CONTAINS 0ERUGINOS $EPOSITION AN IMPORTANT LATE FRESCO DAMAGED WHEN MONKS ERECTED A CHOIR SCREEN NEARBY 'REATER DAMAGE WAS DONE TO #ITTÌS ARTISTIC PATRIMONY BY FOREIGNERS NOT LEAST BY .APOLEON WHO REMOVED CARTLOADS OF THE TOWNS OTHER 0ERUGINOS TO THE ,OUVRE 4HE /RATORIO DI 3ANTA -ARIA DEI "IANCHI SAME HOURS AND TICKET AS 0ALAZZO #ORGNA IS REACHED BY RETURNING TO THE MAIN 0IAZZA DEL 0LEBISCITO AND CONTINUING NORTH ON 6IA 0IETRO 6ANNUNCI 4HE 0ERUGINO HERE 4HE !DORATION OF THE -AGI IS ONE OF HIS MASTERPIECES NOTE ,AGO 4RASIMENO IN THE BACKGROUND )T WAS PAINTED IN JUST DAYS IN PERHAPS CLAIM SOME CRITICS WITH THE ASSIS TANCE OF 0ERUGINOS PUPIL THE YOUNG 2APHAEL 0ERUGINO INITIALLY ASKED FOR mORINS FOR THE WORK THEN SAID HED BE HAPPY WITH HALF THAT AS HE WAS A NATIVE OF THE TOWN IN THE END THE CONFRATERNITY WHICH OWNED THE /RATORIO IT EXISTS TO THIS DAY AS A CHARITABLE INSTITUTION PAID HIM JUST 4WO LETTERS FROM THE ARTIST DISPLAYED WITH THE PAINTING DOCUMENT THE lNANCIAL WRANGLING )F THE BUILDING IS SHUT TRY ASKING AT THE CUSTODIANS HOUSE 6IA 0IETRO 6ANNUCCI 0RACTICALITIES
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4HE TOURIST OFlCE IS AT 0IAZZA DEL 0LEBISCITO -ONn3AT AMnPM nPM #ITTÌ DELLA 0IEVE MAKES A PEACEFUL ENOUGH STOP AND HAS A TWO STAR HOTEL THE 6ANNUCCI 6IA )CILIO 6ANNI HVANNUCCI SUPEREVAIT LOCATED NOT FAR AFTER THE CHURCH OF 3AN &RAN CESCO BEYOND THE EASTERN END OF 6IA 6ITTORIO 6ENETO )T HAS A GARDEN AND A RESTAURANT THOUGH THE BEST PLACE TO EAT IN TOWN IS 3ERENALLA 6IA &IORENZUOLA CLOSED 7ED A FAMILY RUN PLACE OFF 6IA 6ITTORIO 6ENETO !NOTHER HOTEL A TOUCH FARTHER OUT IN THE SAME DIRECTION AS THE 6ANNUCCI TURN RIGHT AT THE FORK AFTER 3AN &RANCESCO IS THE THREE STAR 0ICCOLO %DEN 6IA 3ANTA ,UCIA WWWCDPIEVECOM WHERE THEYLL LEND YOU A BIKE TO RUN INTO TOWN OR EXPLORE FARTHER AlELD
4RAVEL DETAILS
4HE EXCELLENT WEBSITE WWWUMBRIATRASPORTIIT HAS LINKS TO FULL AND UPDATED TIMETABLES FOR ALL PUBLIC TRANSPORT INCLUDING THE PRIVATE AND 4RENITALIA STATE RAIL SERVICES AND THE !4# !0- AND 33)4 BUS SERVICES
4RAINS
"USES !MELIA TO !VIGLIANO DAILY -ONn3AT CON NECTING TO 4ODI VIA $UNAROBBA MIN ,UGNANO IN 4EVERINA -ONn3AT DAILY ON 3UN MIN .ARNI DAILY -ONn3AT ON 3UN MIN /RVIETO n DAILY -ONn3AT HR MIN 4ERNI OR MORE DAILY -ONn3AT ON 3UN MIN /RVIETO TO !MELIA n DAILY -ONn3AT HR MIN "OLSENA DAILY -ONn3AT MIN #ORBARA#IVITELLA DEL ,AGO DAILY -ONn3AT MIN ,UGNANO IN 4EVERINA DAILY -ONn3AT HR .ARNI DAILY -ONn3AT HR MIN 0ERUGIA DAILY HR 4ERNI DAILY -ONn3AT HR 4ODI DAILY -ONn3AT HR MIN .ARNI TO !MELIA DAILY -ONn3AT ON 3UN MIN /RVIETO DAILY -ONn3AT HR MIN /TRI COLI DAILY -ONn3AT MIN 4ERNI TO !MELIA OR MORE DAILY -ONn3AT ON 3UN MIN #ASCATA DELLE -ARMORE PLUS DAILY -ONn3AT ON 3UN MIN &ERENTILLO DAILY -ONn3AT ON 3UN MIN ,UGNANO IN 4EVERINA DAILY -ONn3AT ON 3UN HR MIN /RVIETO VIA "ASCHI 'UARDEA -ONTECCHIO AND !MELIA DAILY -ONn3AT HR 0IEDILUCO DAILY -ONn3AT ON 3UN MIN 3CHEGGINO DAILY -ONn3AT ON 3UN MIN 4ODI VIA 3ANGEMINI !CQUASPARTA OR !VIGLIANO DAILY -ONn3AT HR 4ODI TO $ERUTA DAILY -ONn3AT MIN -ARSCI ANO DAILY MIN /RVIETO DAILY -ONn3AT HR MIN 0ERUGIA DAILY HR 4ERNI DAILY -ONn3AT HR
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/2 6 ) % 4/ ! .$ 3 / 5 4 ( % 2 . 5 - "2 ) ! 4RAVEL DETAILS
.ARNI TO &OLIGNO n DAILY MIN CONNECTIONS FOR !SSISI .OCERA 5MBRA 'UALDO 4ADINO &OSSATO DI 6ICO n FOR 'UBBIO n AND 0ERUGIA &OSSATO DI 6ICO DAILY HR MIN 'UALDO 4ADINO DAILY HR MIN .OCERA 5MBRA DAILY HR MIN /RTE n DAILY MIN CONNECTIONS FOR 2OME /RVI ETO #HIUSI !REZZO AND &LORENCE 2OME DIRECT DAILY HR 4ERNI DAILY MIN /RVIETO TO !REZZO n DAILY HR MIN #AS TIGLIONE DEL ,AGO n DAILY MIN CONNECTIONS TO 3IENA HR MIN AND ADDITIONAL CONNECTIONS TO #ASTIGLIONE DEL ,AGO MIN &LORENCE n DAILY HR MIN /RTE n DAILY MIN CON NECTIONS TO .ARNI 4ERNI 3POLETO AND &OLIGNO 2OME n DAILY HRnHR MIN 4ERØNTOLA n DAILY MIN CONNECTIONS TO 0ERUGIA 4ERNI TO &OLIGNO n DAILY MIN CONNECTIONS FOR !SSISI .OCERA 5MBRA 'UALDO 4ADINO &OSSATO DI 6ICO n FOR 'UBBIO n AND 0ERUGIA &OSSATO DI 6ICO DAILY HR MIN ADDITIONAL CONNECTIONS AT &OLI GNO 'UALDO 4ADINO DAILY HR MIN ADDITIONAL CONNECTIONS AT &OLIGNO .ARNI DAILY MIN .OCERA 5MBRA DAILY HR ADDITIONAL CONNECTIONS AT &OLIGNO /RTE n DAILY MIN CONNECTIONS TO 2OME /RVIETO #HIUSI !REZZO AND &LORENCE 0ERUGIA 0ONTE 3AN 'IOVANNI3ANT!NNA n DAILY HR MIN CONNECTIONS AT 3ANT!NNA FOR SERVICES TO #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO AND 3ANSEPOLCRO CON NECTIONS AT 0ONTE 3AN 'IOVANNI FOR 4RENITALIA SER VICES TO 4ERØNTOLA AND &OLIGNO 2OME DIRECT n DAILY MINnHR MIN 3POLETO DAILY MIN 4ODI n DAILY MIN 4ODI TO 0ERUGIA 0ONTE 3AN 'IOVANNI3ANT!NNA n DAILY HR MIN CONNECTIONS AT 3ANT!NNA
FOR SERVICES TO #ITTÌ DI #ASTELLO AND 3ANSEPOL CRO CONNECTIONS AT 0ONTE 3AN 'IOVANNI FOR 4RENITA LIA SERVICES TO 4ERØNTOLA AND &OLIGNO MIN 4ERNI n DAILY MIN
#ONTEXTS
#ONTEXTS 4HE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND 4USCANY 4HE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND 5MBRIA ! DIRECTORY OF ARTISTS AND ARCHITECTS "OOKS
4HE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND 4USCANY
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COMPREHENSIVE HISTORY OF 4USCANY IN ITS MEDIEVAL AND 2ENAISSANCE HEYDAY WOULD CONSIST IN LARGE PART OF A MOSAIC OF MORE OR LESS INDE PENDENT HISTORIES AS EACH OF THE REGIONS CITIES HAS A COMPLEX STORY TO TELL )N AN OVERVIEW SUCH AS THIS lDELITY TO THE ENTANGLEMENTS OF CENTRAL )TALYS PAST IS IMPOSSIBLE )NSTEAD WITHIN A BROAD ACCOUNT OF THE MAIN TRENDS IN THE EVOLUTION OF 4USCANY WE HAVE CONCENTRATED ON THE CITY THAT EMERGED AS THE DOMINANT FORCE n &LORENCE 4HE BRIEF REVIEWS OF THE OTHER MAJOR TOWNS n 3IENA 0ISA !REZZO 0RATO 0ISTOIA AND SO ON n ARE SUP PLEMENTED BY BACKGROUND GIVEN IN THE APPROPRIATE SECTIONS OF THE GUIDE 3IMILARLY CRUCIAL EPISODES IN THE HISTORY OF &LORENCE AND ITS CULTURE n FOR INSTANCE THE ASCENDANCY OF 3AVONAROLA n ARE COVERED IN GREATER DETAIL IN THE CHAPTER ON THAT CITY
%TRUSCANS AND 2OMANS
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# / .4 % 8 4 3 4HE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND 4USCANY
4HE NAME OF THE PROVINCE OF 4USCANY DERIVES FROM THE %TRUSCANS THE MOST POWERFUL CIVILIZATION OF PRE 2OMAN )TALY 4HERES NO SCHOLARLY CONSENSUS ON THE ORIGINS OF THIS PEOPLE WITH SOME EXPERTS INSISTING THAT THEY MIGRATED INTO )TALY FROM !NATOLIA AT THE START OF THE NINTH CENTURY "# AND OTHERS MAINTAINING THAT THEY WERE AN INDIGENOUS TRIBE !LL THATS KNOWN FOR CERTAIN IS THAT THE %TRUSCANS WERE SPREAD THOUGHOUT CENTRAL )TALY FROM THE EIGHTH CENTURY "# AND THAT THE CENTRE OF GRAVITY OF THEIR DOMAIN WAS IN THE SOUTHERN PART OF THE MODERN PROV INCE ROUGHLY ALONG A LINE DRAWN FROM /RBETELLO TO ,AGO 4RASIMENO 4HEIR PRIN CIPAL SETTLEMENTS IN 4USCANY WERE 2OSELLE 6ETULONIA 0OPULONIA 6OLTERRA #HIUSI #ORTONA !REZZO AND n MOST NORTHERLY OF ALL n &IESOLE )T SEEMS THAT THE %TRUSCANS ABSORBED ELEMENTS OF THOSE CULTURES WITH WHOM THEY CAME INTO CONTACT THUS THEIR TRADE WITH 'REEK SETTLEMENTS PRODUCED SOME CLASSICALLY INmUENCED ART THAT CAN BE SEEN AT ITS BEST IN &LORENCES ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM AND IN #ORTONA 4HE %TRUSCAN LANGUAGE HAS STILL NOT BEEN FULLY DECI PHERED A MASSIVE TRANSLATION PROGRAMME IS UNDER WAY IN 0ERUGIA SO AT THE MOMENT THEIR WALL PAINTINGS AND TERRACOTTA FUNERARY SCULPTURES ARE THE MAIN SOURCE OF INFORMATION ABOUT THEM AND THIS INFORMATION IS OPEN TO WIDELY DIFFERING INTERPRETATIONS 3OME PEOPLE HAVE INFERRED AN ALMOST NEUROTIC FEAR OF DEATH FROM THE EVIDENCE OF THEIR BURIAL SITES AND MONUMENTS WHILE OTHERS n MOST NOTABLY $( ,AWRENCE n HAVE ON THE CONTRARY INTUITED AN IRREPRESSIBLE AND UNCOMPLICATED VITALITY 4HERE MAY HAVE BEEN AN %TRUSCAN SETTLEMENT WHERE &LORENCE NOW STANDS BUT IT WOULD HAVE BEEN SUBSERVIENT TO THEIR BASE IN THE HILL TOWN OF &IESOLE 4HE SUBSTANTIAL DEVELOPMENT OF 4USCANYS CHIEF CITY BEGAN WITH THE 2OMAN COLONY OF &LORENTIA ESTABLISHED BY *ULIUS #AESAR IN "# AS A SETTLEMENT FOR ARMY VETERANS n BY WHICH TIME 2OMANS HAD EITHER SUBSUMED OR EXTERMINATED MOST %TRUSCAN TOWNS %XPANSION OF &LORENTIA ITSELF WAS RAPID WITH A STEADY TRAFlC OF TRADING VESSELS ALONG THE !RNO PROVIDING THE BASIS OF ACCELERATED GROWTH IN THE SECOND AND THIRD CENTURIES !$
4HIS RISE UNDER THE EMPIRE WAS PARALLELED BY THE GROWTH OF 3IENA 0ISA AND ,UCCA ESTABLISHING AN ECONOMIC PRIMACY IN THE NORTH OF 4USCANY THAT HAS ENDURED TO THE PRESENT !CCORDING TO LEGEND 3IENA WAS FOUNDED BY THE SONS OF 2EMUS SUPPOSEDLY mEEING THEIR UNCLE 2OMULUS WHILE THE PORT AT 0ISA WAS DEVELOPED BY THE 2OMANS IN THE SECOND CENTURY "# ,UCCA WAS EVEN MORE IMPORTANT AND IT WAS HERE THAT *ULIUS #AESAR #RASSUS AND 0OMPEY ESTABLISHED THEIR TRIUMVIRATE IN "#
"ARBARIANS AND MARGRAVES
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\ 4HE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND 4USCANY
5NDER THE COMPARATIVE TRANQUILLITY OF THE 2OMAN COLONIAL REGIME #HRISTIAN ITY BEGAN TO SPREAD THROUGH THE REGION ,UCCA CLAIMS TO HAVE BEEN THE lRST #HRISTIAN CITY IN 4USCANY n EVANGELIZED BY A DISCIPLE OF 3T 0ETER n THOUGH 0ISAS CHURCH OF 3AN 0IETRO A 'RADO IS SAID TO HAVE BEEN FOUNDED BY 0ETER HIMSELF )N &LORENCE THE CHURCH OF 3AN ,ORENZO AND THE MARTYRS SHRINE AT 3AN -INIATO WERE BOTH ESTABLISHED IN THE FOURTH CENTURY 4HIS PERIOD OF CALM WAS SHATTERED IN THE lFTH CENTURY BY THE INVASIONS OF THE 'OTHS FROM THE NORTH THOUGH THE SCALE OF THE DESTRUCTION IN THIS lRST BARBARIAN WAVE WAS NOTHING COMPARED TO THE HAVOC OF THE FOLLOWING CENTURY !FTER THE FALL OF 2OME THE EMPIRE HAD SPLIT IN TWO WITH THE WESTERN HALF RULED FROM 2AVENNA AND THE EASTERN FROM #ONSTANTINOPLE "YZANTIUM "Y THE S 2AVENNA WAS OCCUPIED BY THE /STROGOTHS AND FORTY YEARS LATER THE "YZANTINE EMPEROR *USTINIAN LAUNCHED A CAMPAIGN TO REPOSSESS THE )TALIAN PENINSULA 4HE ENSUING MAYHEM BETWEEN THE "YZANTINE ARMIES OF "ELISARIUS AND .ARSUS AND THE FAST MOVING 'OTHS WAS PROBABLY THE MOST DESTRUCTIVE PHASE OF CENTRAL )TALIAN HISTORY WITH VIRTUALLY ALL MAJOR SETTLEMENTS RAVAGED BY ONE SIDE OR THE OTHER n AND SOMETIMES BOTH )N &LORENCE FELL TO THE HORDES OF THE 'OTHIC KING 4OTILA WHOSE DEPREDATIONS SO WEAKENED THE PROVINCE THAT LESS THAN TWENTY YEARS LATER THE ,OMBARDS WERE ABLE TO STORM IN SUBJUGATING &LORENCE TO THE DUCHY WHOSE CAPITAL WAS IN 0AVIA THOUGH ITS DUKES PREFERRED TO RULE FROM ,UCCA "Y THE END OF THE EIGHTH CENTURY #HARLEMAGNES &RANKS HAD TAKEN CONTROL OF MUCH OF )TALY WITH THE ADMINISTRATION BEING OVERSEEN BY IMPERIAL MAR GRAVES AGAIN BASED IN ,UCCA 4HESE PROXY RULERS DEVELOPED INTO SOME OF THE MOST POWERFUL lGURES IN THE (OLY 2OMAN %MPIRE AND WERE INSTRUMENTAL IN SPREADING #HRISTIANITY EVEN FURTHER FOUNDING NUMEROUS RELIGIOUS HOUSES 7ILLA WIDOW OF THE MARGRAVE 5BERTO ESTABLISHED THE "ADÖA IN &LORENCE IN THE lRST MONASTIC FOUNDATION IN THE CENTRE OF THE CITY HER SON 5GO MARGRAVE IN TURN IS BURIED IN THE "ADÖAS CHURCH 4HE HOLD OF THE CENTRAL AUTHORITY OF THE (OLY 2OMAN %MPIRE WAS OFTEN TENU OUS WITH FEUDAL GRIEVANCES MAKING THE REGION ALL BUT UNGOVERNABLE AND IT WAS UNDER THE IMPERIAL MARGRAVES THAT THE NOTION OF AN AUTONOMOUS 4USCAN ENTITY BEGAN TO EMERGE )N THE POSITION OF MARGRAVE WAS PASSED TO THE #ANOSSA FAMILY WHO TOOK THE TITLE OF THE #OUNTS OF 4USCIA AS 4USCANY WAS THEN CALLED 4HE MOST INmUENTIAL lGURE PRODUCED BY THIS DYNASTY WAS -ATILDA DAUGHTER OF THE lRST #ANOSSA MARGRAVE 7HEN HER FATHER DIED SHE WAS ABDUCTED BY THE 'ERMAN EMPEROR (ENRY ))) AND ON HER RELEASE AND RETURN TO HER HOME TERRI TORY SHE BEGAN TO TAKE THE SIDE OF THE PAPACY IN ITS PROTRACTED DISPUTES WITH THE EMPIRE 4HE CULMINATION OF HER ANTI IMPERIALIST POLICY CAME IN WHEN SHE OBLIGED THE EMPEROR (ENRY )6 TO WAIT IN THE SNOW OUTSIDE THE GATES OF #ANOSSA BEFORE MAKING OBEISANCE TO 0OPE 'REGORY 6)) ,ATER FRICTION BETWEEN THE
PAPACY EMPIRE AND 4USCAN CITIES WAS ASSURED WHEN -ATILDA BEQUEATHED ALL HER LANDS TO THE POPE WITH THE CRUCIAL EXCEPTIONS OF &LORENCE 3IENA AND ,UCCA
'UELPHS AND 'HIBELLINES
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# / .4 % 8 4 3 4HE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND 4USCANY
4HOUGH ,UCCA HAD BEEN THE TITULAR BASE OF THE IMPERIAL MARGRAVES 5GO AND HIS SUCCESSORS HAD SHOWN A DEGREE OF FAVOURITISM TOWARDS &LORENCE AND OVER THE NEXT THREE HUNDRED YEARS &LORENCE GAINED PRE EMINENCE AMONG THE CITIES OF 4USCANY BECOMING ESPECIALLY IMPORTANT AS A RELIGIOUS CENTRE )N #OUNTESS -ATILDA SUPERVISED THE CONSTRUCTION OF NEW FORTIlCATIONS FOR &LORENCE AND IN THE YEAR OF HER DEATH n n GRANTED IT THE STATUS OF AN INDEPENDENT CITY 4HE NEW COMUNE OF &LORENCE WAS ESSENTIALLY GOVERNED BY A COUNCIL OF ONE HUNDRED MEN THE GREAT MAJORITY DRAWN FROM THE RISING MERCHANT CLASS )N THE CITYS INCREASING DOMINANCE OF THE REGION WAS CONlRMED WHEN IT CRUSHED THE RIVAL CITY OF &IESOLE &IFTY YEARS LATER AS THE POPULATION BOOMED WITH THE RISE OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY NEW WALLS WERE BUILT AROUND WHAT WAS THEN ONE OF THE LARGEST CITIES IN %UROPE .OT THAT THE OTHER MERCANTILE CENTRES OF 4USCANY WERE COMPLETELY ECLIPSED AS THEIR MAGNIlCENT HERITAGE OF MEDIEVAL BUILDINGS MAKES PLAIN 0ISA IN THE TENTH AND ELEVENTH CENTURIES HAD BECOME ONE OF THE PENINSULAS WEALTHIEST PORTS AND ITS SHIPPING LINES PLAYED A VITAL PART IN BRINGING THE CULTURAL INmUENCES OF &RANCE "YZANTIUM AND THE -USLIM WORLD INTO )TALY 4WELFTH CENTURY 3IENA THOUGH RACKED BY CONmICTS BETWEEN THE BISHOPS AND THE SECULAR AUTHORITIES AND BETWEEN THE NOBILITY AND THE MERCHANT CLASS WAS BOOMING THANKS TO ITS CLOTH INDUSTRIES AND ITS EXPLOITATION OF A LOCAL SILVER MINE n FOUNDATION OF A BANKING EMPIRE THAT WAS TO SEE THE CITY RIVALLING THE BANKERS OF 6ENICE AND &LORENCE ON THE INTERNATIONAL MARKETS 4HROUGHOUT AND BEYOND THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY 4USCANY WAS TORN BY CONmICT BETWEEN THE 'HIBELLINE FACTION AND THE 'UELPHS 4HE NAMES OF THESE TWO POLITICAL ALIGNMENTS DERIVE FROM 7ELF THE FAMILY NAME OF %MPEROR /TTO )6 AND 7AIBLINGEN THE NAME OF A CASTLE OWNED BY THEIR IMPLACABLE RIVALS THE (OHENS TAUFEN 4HOUGH THERES NO CLEAR DOCUMENTATION IT SEEMS THAT THE TERMS 'UELPH AND 'HIBELLINE ENTERED THE )TALIAN VOCABULARY AT THE END OF THE TWELFTH CENTURY WHEN SUPPORTERS OF /TTO )6 BATTLED FOR CONTROL OF THE CENTRAL PENINSULA WITH THE FUTURE &REDERICK )) NEPHEW OF /TTO AND GRANDSON OF THE (OHENSTAUFEN EMPEROR "ARBAROSSA n 7ITHIN THE lRST FEW YEARS OF &REDERICK ))S REIGN n THE LABELS 'UELPH AND 'HIBELLINE HAD CHANGED THEIR MEANING n THE LATTER STILL REFERRED TO THE ALLIES OF THE (OHENSTAUFEN BUT THE 'UELPH PARTY WAS DElNED CHIEmY BY ITS LOYALTY TO THE PAPACY THUS REVIVING THE BATTLE LINES DRAWN UP DURING THE REIGN OF -ATILDA 4O MUDDY THE WATERS YET FURTHER WHEN #HARLES OF !NJOU CONQUERED .APLES IN ALLIANCE WITH THE ANTI IMPERIAL &RENCH BECAME ANOTHER COMPONENT OF 'UELPHISM AND A LOOSE 'UELPH ALLIANCE SOON STRETCHED FROM 0ARIS TO .APLES SUBSTANTIALLY FUNDED BY THE BANKERS OF 4USCANY 'HIBELLINE'UELPH DIVISIONS APPROXIMATELY CORRESPONDED TO A SPLIT BETWEEN THE FEUDAL NOBILITY AND THE RISING BUSINESS CLASSES BUT THIS IS ONLY THE BROAD EST OF GENERALIZATIONS "Y THE BEGINNING OF THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY THE MAJOR CITIES OF 4USCANY WERE BECOMING INCREASINGLY SELF SUFlCIENT AND INTER CITY STRIFE WAS SOON A COMMONPLACE OF MEDIEVAL LIFE )N THIS CLIMATE AFlLIATIONS WITH THE EMPIRE AND THE PAPACY WERE OFTEN STRUCK ON THE BASIS THAT hMY ENEMYS
ENEMY IS MY FRIENDv AND ALLEGIANCES CHANGED AT BAFmING SPEED IF FOR INSTANCE THE 'UELPHS GAINED THE ASCENDANCY IN A PARTICULAR TOWN ITS NEIGHBOURS MIGHT SWITCH TO THE 'HIBELLINE CAMP TO MAINTAIN THEIR RIVALRY .ONETHELESS CERTAIN PATTERNS DID EMERGE FROM THE CONFUSION &LORENCE AND ,UCCA WERE GENERALLY 'UELPH STRONGHOLDS WHILE 0ISA !REZZO 0RATO 0ISTOIA AND 3IENA TENDED TO SIDE WITH THE EMPIRE !S A lNAL COMPLICATING FACTOR THIS WAS ALSO THE GREAT AGE OF MERCENARY ARMIES WHOSE LOYALTIES CHANGED EVEN QUICKER THAN THOSE OF THE TOWNS THAT PAID FOR THEIR SERVICES 4HUS 3IR *OHN (AWKWOOD n WHOSE 7HITE #OMPANY WAS THE MOST FEARSOME BAND OF HOODLUMS ON THE PENINSULA n IS KNOWN TODAY THROUGH THE MONUMENT TO HIM IN &LORENCES $UOMO BUT EARLY IN HIS CAREER WAS EMPLOYED BY 'HIBELLINE 0ISA TO lGHT THE &LORENTINES (E WAS THEN TAKEN ON BY 0OPE 'REGORY 8) WHOM HE DESERTED ON THE GROUNDS OF UNDERPAYMENT AND IN THE END WAS GRANTED A PENSION OF mORINS A YEAR BY &LORENCE BASICALLY AS A FORM OF PROTECTION MONEY %VEN THEN HE WAS OFTEN ABSENT lGHTING FOR OTHER CITIES WHENEVER A FAT PURSE WAS WAVED IN HIS DIRECTION
-EDIEVAL &LORENCE BEFORE THE -EDICI # / .4 % 8 4 3
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)N THIS PERIOD OF SUPERPOWER MANOEUVRING AND SHIFTING ECONOMIC STRUCTURES CITY GOVERNMENTS IN 4USCANY WERE VOLATILE 4HE ADMINISTRATION OF 3IENA FOR EXAMPLE WAS CARRIED OUT BY VARIOUS COMBINATIONS OF COUNCILS AND GOVERNORS AND IN ITS CONSTITUTION WAS REDRAWN NO FEWER THAN FOUR TIMES (OWEVER &LORENCE PROVIDES PERHAPS THE BEST ILLUSTRATION OF THE TURBULENCE OF 4USCAN POLI TICS IN THE LATE -IDDLE !GES )N THE CITYS GOVERNING COUNCIL WAS REPLACED BY THE PODESTÌ AN EXECU TIVE OFlCIAL WHO WAS TRADITIONALLY A NON &LORENTINE IN A SEMI AUTOCRATIC FORM OF GOVERNMENT THAT WAS COMMON THROUGHOUT THE REGION )T WAS AROUND THIS TIME TOO THAT THE lRST ARTI GUILDS WERE FORMED TO PROMOTE THE INTERESTS OF THE TRADERS AND BANKERS A CONSTITUENCY OF EVER INCREASING POWER 4HEN IN &LORENCE WAS RIVEN BY A FEUD THAT WAS TYPICAL OF THE INTERNECINE VIO LENCE OF CENTRAL )TALY AT THIS PERIOD /N %ASTER 3UNDAY ONE "UONDELMONTE DE "UONDELMONTI ON HIS WAY TO HIS WEDDING WAS STABBED TO DEATH AT THE FOOT OF THE 0ONTE 6ECCHIO BY A MEMBER OF THE !MIDEI CLAN IN REVENGE FOR BREAKING HIS ENGAGEMENT TO A YOUNG WOMAN OF THAT FAMILY 4HE PROSECUTION OF THE MURDERERS AND THEIR ALLIES POLARIZED THE CITY INTO THOSE WHO SUPPORTED THE COMUNE n WHICH REGARDED ITSELF AS THE PROTECTOR OF THE COMMERCIAL CITY AGAINST IMPERIAL AMBITIONS n AND THE FOLLOWERS OF THE !MIDEI WHO SEEM TO HAVE POLITICIZED THEIR PERSONAL GRIEVANCES BY ALIGNING THEMSELVES AGAINST THE COMUNE AND WITH THE EMPEROR 4HESE 'HIBELLINES EVENTUALLY ENLISTED THE HELP OF %MPEROR &REDERICK )) TO OUST THE 'UELPHS IN BUT WITHIN TWO YEARS THEY HAD BEEN DISPLACED BY THE 'UELPH BACKED REGIME OF THE 0RIMO 0OPOLO A QUASI DEMOCRATIC GOVERNMENT DRAWN FROM THE MERCANTILE CLASS 4HE 0RIMO 0OPOLO WAS IN TURN DISPLACED IN WHEN THE &LORENTINE ARMY MARCHED ON 3IENA TO DEMAND THE SURRENDER OF SOME EXILES WHO WERE HIDING OUT IN THE CITY 4HOUGH GREATLY OUTNUMBERED THE 3IENESE ARMY AND ITS 'HIBELLINE ALLIES OVERWHELMED THE AGGRESSORS AT -ONTAP ERTI AFTER WHICH THE 3IENESE WERE PREVENTED FROM RAZING &LORENCE ONLY BY THE INTERVENTION OF &ARINATA DEGLI 5BERTI HEAD OF THE 'HIBELLINE EXILES
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# / .4 % 8 4 3 4HE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND 4USCANY
"Y THE S THE BALANCE HAD AGAIN MOVED BACK IN FAVOUR OF &LORENCE WHERE THE 'UELPHS WERE BACK IN CONTROL n AFTER THE INTERVENTION OF #HARLES OF !NJOU n THROUGH THE 3ECONDO 0OPOLO A REGIME RUN BY THE !RTI -AGGIORI 'REAT 'UILDS )T WAS THIS SECOND BOURGEOIS ADMINISTRATION THAT DElNITIVELY SHIFTED THE FULCRUM OF POWER IN &LORENCE TOWARDS ITS BANKERS MERCHANTS AND MANUFACTUR ERS n WHEREAS IN 3IENA THE SECOND RICHEST CITY IN 4USCANY THE FEUDAL FAMILIES RETAINED A STRANGLEHOLD FOR FAR LONGER !GITATION FROM THE LANDED NOBILITY OF THE COUNTRYSIDE AROUND &LORENCE HAD BEEN A CONSTANT FACT OF LIFE UNTIL THE 3ECONDO 0OPOLO WHICH IN PASSED A PROGRAMME OF POLITICAL REFORMS KNOWN AS THE /RDINAMENTI DELLA 'IUSTIZIA EXCLUDING THE NOBILITY FROM GOVERNMENT AND INVEST ING POWER IN THE 3IGNORIA A COUNCIL DRAWN FROM THE !RTI -AGGIORI 3TRIFE BETWEEN THE VIRULENTLY ANTI IMPERIAL h"LACKv AND MORE CONCILIATORY h7HITEv FACTIONS WITHIN THE 'UELPH CAMP MARKED THE START OF THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY IN &LORENCE WITH MANY OF THE 7HITES n $ANTE AMONG THEM n BEING EXILED IN 7ORSE DISARRAY WAS TO COME )N THE ARMY OF ,UCCA UNDER #ASTRUCCIO #ASTRACANI DEFEATED THE &LORENTINES AND WAS ABOUT TO OVERWHELM THE CITY WHEN THE DEATH OF THEIR LEADER TOOK THE MOMENTUM OUT OF THE CAM PAIGN 4HEN IN THE "ARDI AND 0ERUZZI BANKS n &LORENCES LARGEST n BOTH COLLAPSED MAINLY OWING TO THE BAD DEBTS OF %DWARD ))) OF %NGLAND 4HE ULTI MATE CATASTROPHE CAME IN WHEN THE "LACK $EATH DESTROYED AS MANY AS HALF THE CITYS POPULATION (OWEVER EVEN THOUGH THE EPIDEMIC HIT &LORENCE SO BADLY THAT IT WAS GENERALLY REFERRED TO AS THE &LORENTINE 0LAGUE ITS EFFECTS WERE EQUALLY DEVASTATING THROUGH OUT THE REGION AND DID NOTHING TO REVERSE THE ECONOMIC n AND THUS POLITICAL n SUPREMACY OF THE CITY &LORENCE HAD SUBSUMED 0ISTOIA IN AND GAINED 0RATO IN THE S )N IT TOOK CONTROL OF 0ISA AND THUS GAINED A LONG COVETED SEA PORT AND lVE YEARS LATER #ORTONA BECAME PART OF ITS TERRITORY &ROM THIS TIME ON DESPITE THE SURVIVAL OF 3IENESE INDEPENDENCE INTO THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY THE HISTORY OF 4USCANY INCREASINGLY BECOMES THE HISTORY OF &LORENCE
4HE EARLY -EDICI ! CRUCIAL EPISODE IN THE LIBERATION OF &LORENCE FROM THE INmUENCE OF THE PAPACY WAS THE SO CALLED 7AR OF THE %IGHT 3AINTS IN n WHICH BROUGHT &LOR ENCE INTO DIRECT TERRITORIAL CONmICT WITH 0OPE 'REGORY 8) 4HIS NOT ONLY SIG NALLED THE DISSOLUTION OF THE OLD 'UELPH ALLIANCE BUT HAD IMMENSE REPERCUSSIONS FOR THE INTERNAL POLITICS OF &LORENCE 4HE INCREASED TAXATION AND OTHER ECONOMIC HARDSHIPS OF THE WAR PROVOKED AN UPRISING OF THE INDUSTRIAL DAY LABOURERS THE #IOMPI ON WHOM THE WOOL AND CLOTH FACTORIES DEPENDED 4HEIR SHORT LIVED REVOLT RESULTED IN THE FORMATION OF THREE NEW GUILDS AND DIRECT REPRESENTATION FOR THE WORKERS FOR THE lRST TIME (OWEVER THE PROSPECT OF INCREASED PROLETAR IAN PRESENCE IN THE MACHINERY OF STATE PROVOKED A CONSOLIDATION OF THE CITYS OLIGARCHS AND IN AN ALLIANCE OF THE CITYS 'UELPH PARTY AND THE 0OPOLO 'RASSO THE WEALTHIEST MERCHANTS TOOK CONTROL OF THE 3IGNORIA AWAY FROM THE GUILDS A SITUATION THAT LASTED FOR FOUR DECADES .OT ALL OF &LORENCES MOST PROSPEROUS CITIZENS ALIGNED THEMSELVES WITH THE 0OPOLO 'RASSO AND THE FOREMOST OF THE WELL OFF MAVERICKS WERE THE -EDICI A FAMILY FROM THE AGRICULTURAL -UGELLO REGION WHOSE FORTUNE HAD BEEN MADE BY THE BANKING PROWESS OF 'IOVANNI "ICCI DE -EDICI 4HE POLITICAL RISE OF HIS SON #OSIMO DE -EDICI WAS TO SOME EXTENT DUE TO HIS FAMILYS SYMPATHIES
WITH THE 0OPOLO -INUTO AS THE MEMBERS OF THE DISENFRANCHISED LESSER GUILDS WERE KNOWN 7ITH THE INCREASE IN PUBLIC DISCONTENT AT THE AUTOCRATIC RULE OF THE 3IGNORIA n WHERE THE !LBIZZI CLAN WERE THE DOMINANT FORCE n #OSIMO CAME TO BE SEEN AS THE lGUREHEAD OF THE MORE DEMOCRATICALLY INCLINED SECTOR OF THE UPPER CLASS )N THE AUTHORITIES IMPRISONED HIM IN THE TOWER OF THE 0AL AZZO 6ECCHIO AND TWO YEARS LATER AS &LORENCE BECAME EMBROILED IN A FUTILE AND DOMESTICALLY UNPOPULAR WAR AGAINST ,UCCA THEY SENT HIM INTO EXILE (E WAS
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# / .4 % 8 4 3 4HE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND 4USCANY
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FOUNDATIONS OF )TALIAN HUMANISM WITH THEIR EMPHASIS ON THE IMPORTANCE OF THE VERNACULAR AND THE DIGNITY OF HUMANITY &LORENCES REPUTATION AS THE MOST INNOVATIVE CULTURAL CENTRE IN %UROPE WAS STRENGTHENED DURING THE lFTEENTH CEN TURY TO A LARGE EXTENT THROUGH -EDICI PATRONAGE #OSIMO COMMISSIONED WORK FROM $ONATELLO -ICHELOZZO AND A HOST OF OTHER &LORENTINE ARTISTS AND TOOK ADVANTAGE OF THE #OUNCIL OF &LORENCE n A CONFERENCE OF THE #ATHOLIC AND %ASTERN CHURCHES n TO FOSTER SCHOLARS WHO WERE FAMILIAR WITH THE LITERATURES OF
THE ANCIENT WORLD (IS GRANDSON ,ORENZO IL -AGNIlCO WHO SUCCEEDED 0IERO IL 'OTTOSO THE 'OUTY CONTINUED THIS LITERARY PATRONAGE PROMOTING THE STUDY OF THE CLASSICS IN THE 0LATONIC ACADEMY THAT USED TO MEET AT THE -EDICI VILLAS /THER -EDICI WERE TO FUND PROJECTS BY "OTTICELLI -ICHELANGELO 0ONTORMO n IN FACT MOST OF THE SEMINAL lGURES OF THE &LORENTINE 2ENAISSANCE ,ORENZO IL -AGNIlCOS STATUS AS THE DE FACTO RULER OF &LORENCE WAS EVEN MORE SECURE THAN THAT OF #OSIMO IL 6ECCHIO BUT IT DID MEET ONE STIFF CHALLENGE 7HILE MANY OF &LORENCES lNANCIAL DYNASTIES WERE CONTENT TO ADVISE AND SUPPORT THE -EDICI OTHERS n NOTABLY THE MIGHTY 3TROZZI CLAN n WERE RESENTFUL OF THE POWER NOW WIELDED BY THEIR FELLOW BUSINESSMEN )N ONE OF THESE DISGRUNTLED FAMILIES THE 0AZZI CONSPIRED WITH 0OPE 3IXTUS )6 WHO HAD BEEN RILED BY ,ORENZOS ATTEMPT TO BREAK THE PAPAL MONOPOLY OF ALUM MINING 4HIS 0AZZI #ONSPIRACY RESULTED IN AN ASSAULT ON ,ORENZO AND HIS BROTHER 'IULIANO DUR ING -ASS IN THE $UOMO ,ORENZO WAS BADLY INJURED AND 'IULIANO MURDERED AN OUTCOME THAT ONLY INCREASED THE ESTEEM IN WHICH ,ORENZO WAS HELD .OW THAT THE PLOT HAD FAILED 3IXTUS JOINED FORCES WITH THE FEROCIOUS +ING &ERRANTE OF .APLES TO LAUNCH A WAR ON &LORENCE AND EXCOMMUNICATED ,ORENZO INTO THE BARGAIN 4AKING HIS LIFE IN HIS HANDS ,ORENZO LEFT &LORENCE TO PERSUADE &ERRANTE TO LEAVE THE ALLIANCE A MISSION HE SOMEHOW ACCOMPLISHED SUCCESSFULLY TO THE JUBILATION OF THE CITY
4HE WARS OF )TALY # / .4 % 8 4 3
\ 4HE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND 4USCANY
"EFORE ,ORENZOS DEATH IN THE -EDICI BANK FAILED AND IN ,ORENZOS SON 0IERO WAS OBLIGED TO mEE FOLLOWING HIS SURRENDER TO THE INVADING &RENCH ARMY OF #HARLES 6))) 4HIS INVASION WAS THE COMMENCEMENT OF A BLOODY HALF CENTURY DOMINATED BY THE SO CALLED 7ARS OF )TALY !FTER THE DEPARTURE OF #HARLESS TROOPS &LORENCE FOR A WHILE WAS VIRTUALLY UNDER THE CONTROL OF THE INSPIRATIONAL MONK 'IROLAMO 3AVONAROLA BUT HIS CAREER WAS BRIEF (E WAS EXECUTED AS A HERETIC IN AFTER WHICH THE CITY CONTINUED TO FUNCTION AS A MORE DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC THAN THAT OF THE -EDICI )N HOWEVER FOLLOWING &LORENCES DEFEAT BY THE 3PANISH AND PAPAL ARMIES THE -EDICI RETURNED IN THE PERSON OF THE VICIOUS 'IULIANO $UKE OF .EMOURS 'IULIANOS SUCCESSORS n HIS EQUALLY UNATTRACTIVE NEPHEW ,ORENZO $UKE OF 5RBINO AND 'IULIO ILLEGITIMATE SON OF ,ORENZO IL -AGNIlCOS BROTHER n WERE IN EFFECT JUST THE MOUTHPIECES OF 'IOVANNI DE -EDICI THE $UKE OF .EMOURS BROTHER WHO IN BECAME 0OPE ,EO 8 3IMILARLY WHEN 'IULIO BECAME 0OPE #LEMENT 6)) HE WAS REALLY THE ABSENTEE RULER OF &LORENCE WHERE THE FAMILY PRESENCE WAS MAINTAINED BY THE GHASTLY )PPOLITO ILLEGITIMATE SON OF THE DUKE OF .EMOURS AND !LESSANDRO ILLEGITIMATE SON OF THE DUKE OF 5RBINO 4HE -EDICI WERE AGAIN EVICTED FROM &LORENCE IN THE WAKE OF #HARLES 6S PILLAGE OF 2OME IN 0OPE #LEMENTS HUMILIATION BY THE IMPERIAL ARMY PROVIDING THE SPUR TO EJECT HIS DEEPLY UNPOPULAR RELATIVES 4HREE YEARS LATER THE PENDULUM SWUNG THE OTHER WAY AFTER A SIEGE BY THE COMBINED PAPAL AND IMPERIAL FORCES &LORENCE CAPITULATED AND WAS OBLIGED TO RECEIVE !LESSANDRO WHO WAS PROCLAIMED $UKE OF &LORENCE THE lRST -EDICI TO BEAR THE TITLE OF RULER 4HOUGH THE SADISTIC !LESSANDRO LOST NO OPPORTUNITY TO EXPLOIT THE IMMUNITY THAT CAME FROM HIS TITLE IN THE WIDER SCHEME OF )TALIAN POLITICS HE WAS A LESS POWERFUL lGURE THAN HIS ANCESTORS 4USCANY WAS BECOMING JUST ONE MORE PIECE IN THE VAST JIGSAW OF THE (ABSBURG EMPIRE A SUPERPOWER FAR MORE INTERVENTION IST THAN THE MEDIEVAL EMPIRE OF &REDERICK )) COULD EVER HAVE BEEN
4HE LATER -EDICI
5NDER THE TERMS OF A TREATY SIGNED BY 'IAN 'ASTONES SISTER !NNA -ARIA DE -EDICI &LORENCE PASSED IN TO THE (OUSE OF ,ORRAINE COUSINS OF THE !USTRIAN (ABSBURGS 4HE lRST ,ORRAINE PRINCE THE FUTURE &RANCIS ) OF !USTRIA WAS A MORE ENLIGHTENED RULER THAN THE LAST -EDICI HAD BEEN AND HIS SUCCESSORS PRESIDED OVER A PLACID AND GENERALLY UNTROUBLED REGION DOING MUCH TO IMPROVE THE CONDITION OF 4USCANYS AGRICULTURAL LAND AND RATIONALIZE ITS PRODUCTION METH ODS !USTRIAN RULE LASTED UNTIL THE COMING OF THE &RENCH IN AN INTERLUDE
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4O THE PRESENT
# / .4 % 8 4 3 4HE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND 4USCANY
!FTER THE ASSASSINATION OF !LESSANDRO IN POWER PASSED TO ANOTHER #OSIMO NOT A DIRECT HEIR BUT RATHER A DESCENDANT OF #OSIMO IL 6ECCHIOS BROTHER 4HE EMPEROR #HARLES 6 NOW RELATED TO THE -EDICI THROUGH THE MARRIAGE OF HIS DAUGHTER TO !LESSANDRO GAVE HIS ASSENT TO THE SUCCESSION OF THIS SEEMINGLY PLI ABLE YOUNG MAN n INDEED WITHOUT (ABSBURG CONSENT IT WOULD NOT HAVE HAP PENED 9ET IT TURNED OUT THAT #OSIMO HAD THE CLEAR INTENTION OF MAINTAINING &LORENCES ROLE AS THE REGIONAL POWER BROKER AND HE PROVED IMMENSELY SKILFUL AT JUDGING JUST HOW FAR HE COULD PUSH THE CITYS AUTONOMY WITHOUT PROVOKING THE IMPERIAL POLICY MAKERS (AVING lNALLY EXTINGUISHED THE SUBVERSIVE THREAT OF THE 3TROZZI FACTION AT THE BATTLE OF -ONTEMURLO #OSIMO WENT ON TO BUY THE TERRITORY OF 3IENA FROM THE (ABSBURGS IN GIVING &LORENCE CONTROL OF ALL OF 4USCANY WITH THE SOLITARY EXCEPTION OF ,UCCA 4WO YEARS LATER &LORENTINE HEGEMONY IN 4USCANY WAS CON lRMED IN THE 4REATY OF #ATEAU #AMBRÏSIS THE lNAL ACT IN THE 7ARS OF )TALY 3OON AFTER THOUGH THE NEW (ABSBURG EMPEROR 0HILIP )) INSTALLED A MILITARY OUTPOST IN THE /RBETELLO AREA TO KEEP 4USCANY UNDER SCRUTINY )MPERIAL AND PAPAL APPROVAL OF #OSIMOS RULE WAS SEALED IN WHEN HE WAS ALLOWED TO TAKE THE TITLE #OSIMO ) 'RAND $UKE OF 4USCANY )N %UROPEAN TERMS 4USCANY WAS A SECOND RANK POWER BUT BY COMPARISON WITH OTHER STATES ON THE PENINSULA IT WAS IN A VERY COMFORTABLE POSITION AND DURING #OSIMOS REIGN THERE WOULD HAVE BEEN LITTLE PERCEPTION THAT &LORENCE WAS DRIFTING INEXO RABLY TOWARDS THE MARGINS OF %UROPEAN POLITICS )T WAS #OSIMO WHO BUILT THE 5FlZI EXTENDED AND OVERHAULED THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO INSTALLED THE -EDICI IN THE 0ALAZZO 0ITTI HAD THE MAGNIlCENT 0ONTE 3ANTA 4RÖNITA CONSTRUCTED ACROSS THE !RNO AND COMMISSIONED MUCH OF THE PUBLIC SCULPTURE AROUND THE 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA #OSIMOS DESCENDANTS WERE TO REMAIN IN POWER UNTIL AND ASPECTS OF THEIR RULE CONTINUED THE CITYS INTELLECTUAL TRADITION THE -EDICI WERE AMONG 'ALILEOS STRONGEST SUPPORTERS FOR EXAMPLE 9ET IT WAS A STORY OF ALMOST CONTIN UAL IF INITIALLY GENTLE ECONOMIC DECLINE AS BAD HARVESTS AND RECURRENT EPIDEMICS WORSENED THE GLOOM CREATED BY THE SHIFT OF %UROPEAN TRADING PATTERNS IN FAVOUR OF NORTHERN %UROPE 4HE HALF CENTURY REIGN OF &ERDINANDO )) HAD SCARCELY BEGUN WHEN THE MARKET FOR &LORENCES WOOLLEN GOODS COLLAPSED IN THE S AND THE CITYS BANKS SIMULTANEOUSLY WENT INTO A TERMINAL SLUMP 4HE LAST TWO MALE -EDICI THE INSANELY PIOUS #OSIMO ))) AND THE DRUNKEN PEDERAST 'IAN 'ASTONE n WHO WAS SEEN IN PUBLIC ONLY ONCE VOMITING FROM THE WINDOW OF THE STATE COACH n WERE lTTING SYMBOLS OF THE MORIBUND &LORENTINE STATE
# / .4 % 8 4 3
\ 4HE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND 4USCANY
THAT ENDED WITH THE FALL OF .APOLEON WHO HAD MADE HIS SISTER %LISA "ACIOCCHI 'RAND $UCHESS OF 4USCANY !FTER THIS THE ,ORRAINE DYNASTY WAS BROUGHT BACK REMAINING IN RESIDENCE UNTIL THE LAST OF THE LINE ,EOPOLD )) CONSENTED TO HIS OWN DEPOSITION IN !BSORBED INTO THE NEW +INGDOM OF )TALY IN THE FOLLOWING YEAR &LORENCE BECAME THE CAPITAL IN A POSITION IT HELD UNTIL WHEN 2OME n HAVING AT LAST BECOME PART OF THE OTHERWISE UNITED COUNTRY n TOOK OVER THE ROLE )TALYS UNPOPULAR ENTRY INTO 7ORLD 7AR ) COST THOUSANDS OF 4USCAN LIVES AND THE ECONOMIC DISRUPTION THAT FOLLOWED WAS EXPLOITED BY THE REGIME OF "ENITO -USSOLINI 4HE CORPORATE &ASCIST STATE OF THE S DID EFFECT VARIOUS IMPROVE MENTS IN THE INFRASTRUCTURE OF THE REGION BUT -USSOLINIS ALLIANCE WITH (ITLERS 'ERMANY WAS TO PROVE A CALAMITY )N AS THE !LLIED LANDING AT -ONTE #ASSINO WAS FOLLOWED BY A CAMPAIGN TO SWEEP THE OCCUPYING 'ERMAN FORCES OUT OF THE PENINSULA 4USCANY BECAME A BATTLElELD BETWEEN THE .AZIS AND THE PARTISANS 4HE DISTRICTS AROUND -ONTE !MIATA AND THE 6AL D¼RCIA SHELTERED PARTICULARLY STRONG PARTISAN GROUPS AND MANY OF THE PROVINCES HILL TOWNS HAD THEIR RESISTANCE CELLS AS NUMEROUS WELL TENDED WAR MEMORIALS TESTIFY 9ET AS ELSEWHERE IN )TALY THE LOYALTIES OF 4USCANY WERE SPLIT AS IS WELL ILLUSTRATED BY THE CASE OF &LORENCE AN IDEOLOGICAL CENTRE FOR THE RESISTANCE BUT ALSO HOME TO SOME OF )TALYS MOST ARDENT .AZI COLLABORATORS 7ARTIME &LORENCE IN FACT PRODUCED ONE OF THE STRANGEST PARADOXES OF THE TIME A &ASCIST SYMPATHIZER IN CHARGE OF THE "RITISH )NSTITUTE AND A 'ERMAN CONSUL WHO DID SO MUCH TO PROTECT SUSPECTED PARTISANS THAT HE WAS GRANTED THE FREEDOM OF THE CITY AFTER THE WAR !LTHOUGH MOST OF THE MAJOR MONUMENTS OF 4USCANY SURVIVED THE WAR n SOME TIMES AS A RESULT OF PACTS BETWEEN THE TWO SIDES n THERE WAS INEVITABLY WIDE SPREAD DESTRUCTION 'ROSSETO 0ISA AND ,IVORNO WERE BADLY DAMAGED BY !LLIED BOMBING RAIDS WHILE &LORENCE WAS WRECKED BY THE RETREATING 'ERMAN ARMY WHO BOMBED ALL THE BRIDGES EXCEPT THE 0ONTE 6ECCHIO AND BLEW UP MUCH OF THE MEDIEVAL CITY NEAR THE BANKS OF THE !RNO
0OSTWAR 4USCANY 4USCANY IS A PROSPEROUS AND CONSERVATIVE REGION THAT IN THE PAST HAS TENDED TO RETURN RIGHT OF CENTRE MEMBERS OF PARLIAMENT /N A LOCAL LEVEL HOWEVER COM MUNIST AND OTHER LEFT WING SUPPORT IS HIGH THE PARTYS RECORD IN THE WAR AND SUBSEQUENT WORK ON LAND REFORM MAINTAINING A LOYAL FOLLOWING 5NTIL RECENTLY THE COMMUNISTS WERE EFFECTIVELY EXCLUDED FROM NATIONAL GOVERNMENT BY THE MACHINATIONS OF THE NOW DEFUNCT #HRISTIAN $EMOCRAT PARTY WHICH LIKE THE OLD 3OCIALIST PARTY WAS UNDONE BY THE CORRUPTION SCANDALS OF THE EARLY S "Y CONTRAST THE COMMUNIST PARTY AND NEWER LEFT WING PARTIES PROJECTED THEM SELVES n AND CONTINUE TO PROJECT THEMSELVES n AS THE GRASSROOTS OPPOSITION TO THE CENTRALIZATION AND CORRUPTION OF 2OMAN POLITICS )TS A STRATEGY THAT HAS BEEN PARTICULARLY SUCCESSFUL IN 4USCANY WHICH HAS CLUNG ONTO AN IMAGE OF ITSELF AS A STATE WITHIN THE STATE 3INCE THE S THE TOWN HALLS OF THE REGION HAVE BEEN GOVERNED PREDOMINANTLY BY COMMUNIST LED COALITIONS FORMING THE HEARTLAND OF THE SO CALLED hRED BELTv OF CENTRAL )TALY $ESPITE MIGRATION FROM THE LAND IN THE S AND S THE ECONOMY OF 4USCANY HAS BEEN ADROITLY MANAGED 4HE LABOUR INTENSIVE VINEYARDS OLIVE GROVES AND FARMS CONTINUE TO PROVIDE A DEPENDABLE SOURCE OF INCOME BOOSTED BY INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT IN THE !RNO VALLEY AND AROUND ,IVORNO AND 0IOMBINO 0RODUCTION OF TEXTILES LEATHER GOODS AND JEWELLERY HAVE BROUGHT MONEY INTO 0RATO &LORENCE AND !REZZO WHILE WINE HAS BROUGHT UNTOLD PROSPERITY TO PREVIOUSLY MORIBUND TOWNS SUCH AS -ONTALCINO AND -ONTEPULCIANO "UT TOURISM PLAYS
AN UNCOMFORTABLY LARGE AND EVER INCREASING PART IN BALANCING THE BOOKS OF THESE AND OTHER HISTORIC CENTRES 4HIS IS A MIXED BLESSING SHEER WEIGHT OF NUMBERS IN PLACES SUCH AS &LORENCE 3IENA AND 3AN 'IMIGNANO AND MANY OTHERS OVER BURDENING AN ALREADY CREAKING INFRASTRUCTURE AND n WORSE n UNDERMINING THE CHARM AND DAMAGING THE HISTORIC AND ARTISTIC TREASURES THAT ATTRACT VISITORS IN THE lRST PLACE
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# / .4 % 8 4 3 4HE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND 4USCANY
4HE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND 5MBRIA
!
LTHOUGH THE HISTORY OF 5MBRIA OVERLAPS WITH THAT OF 4USCANY IN THE ERAS OF THE %TRUSCANS AND THE 2OMANS THE EMERGENCE OF SELF GOVERNING CITIES MARKS A DIVERGENCE BETWEEN THE ECONOMICALLY DYNAMIC 4USCAN REGION AND LANDLOCKED MORE INWARD LOOKING 5MBRIA !S WITH THE SUM MARY OF 4USCAN HISTORY WHAT FOLLOWS IS BUT A SKETCH OF WHAT IS AN IMMENSELY COMPLEX STORY MORE DETAILS OF WHICH ARE TO BE FOUND IN THE ACCOUNTS OF THE VARIOUS 5MBRIAN TOWNS
0RE 2OMAN 5MBRIA
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\ 4HE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND 5MBRIA
/VER YEARS BEFORE THE BIRTH OF #HRIST A LARGE SCALE MIGRATION OF PRIMITIVE TRIBES FROM CENTRAL %UROPE AND THE EAST BROUGHT PERMANENT SETTLERS TO THE MARSHY LOWLANDS AROUND 4ERNI AND 0ERUGIA !S TIME WENT BY THESE TRIBES STARTED TO MOVE AWAY FROM THE PLAINS IN FAVOUR OF THE UPLANDS AROUND .ORCIA GIVING RISE TO THE lRST OF THE HILL TOWNS THAT WERE EVENTUALLY TO DOMINATE THE ENTIRE REGION "Y THE EIGHTH CENTURY "# THESE PEOPLES WERE ABSORBED BY THE LARGER AND MORE SOPHISTICATED TRIBES THAT FOLLOWED THEM FROM THE NORTH 4HESE GRADUALLY FORMED THEMSELVES INTO THREE DISTINCT GROUPS THE 3AMNITES THE ,ATINS WHO LATER BECAME THE 2OMANS AND THE 5MBRIANS !LL THREE HAD COMMON CULTURAL ROOTS SPOKE DIALECTS OF A SHARED LANGUAGE AND BETWEEN THEM OCCUPIED ALL BUT THE SOUTHERNMOST TIP OF THE )TALIAN PENINSULA 4HE 5MBRIANS OWN TERRITORY EXTENDED FAR BEYOND THE REGIONS PRESENT BOUNDARIES INCLUDING THE BEST PART OF WHAT IS NOW 4USCANY AND THE -ARCHE n A VAST AREA FOR A PEOPLE OF WHOM ALMOST NOTHING IS KNOWN /NLY THE %UGUBINE -ARBLES FOUND NEAR 'UBBIO YIELD ANY CLUES AS TO THE RELIGION OR LANGUAGE OF WHAT WAS CLEARLY A COGENT CIVILIZATION /THER THAN THESE THE 5MBRIANS ONLY MEMORIALS ARE THE WALLS STILL STANDING MORE OR LESS INTACT IN A DOZEN ODD CITIES IN THE REGION 7HEN THE %TRUSCANS BEGAN TO ENCROACH ON THESE CITIES THEIR PREDOMINANTLY AGRICULTURAL INHABITANTS RETREATED QUIETLY INTO THE MOUNTAINS AND CARRIED ON LIFE MUCH AS THEY HAD DONE BEFORE )N TIME THEY STARTED TO TRADE AND INTERMARRY WITH THEIR NEW NEIGHBOURS AND THE TWO CULTURES BECAME MORE OR LESS INDISTIN GUISHABLE "Y "# %TRUSCAN INmUENCE IN 5MBRIA EXTENDED AS FAR EAST AS THE 4IBER AND IN SOME ISOLATED CASES n 'UBBIO FOR EXAMPLE n SOME WAY BEYOND IT !LL ASPECTS OF THEIR LIFE POINT TO A SOPHISTICATED AND ORDERED SOCIAL SET UP WITH A POLITICAL SYSTEM FORMED AROUND A CONFEDERATION OF CITIES OF WHICH TWO n 0ERU GIA AND /RVIETO n WERE SITUATED IN WHAT IS NOW 5MBRIA
2OMAN 5MBRIA
4HE lRST TIME 5MBRIA APPEARS IN 2OMAN RECORDS IS IN "# THE OCCASION BEING 0ERUGIAS DEFEAT AT THE HANDS OF THE 2OMAN CONSUL &ABIUS 4HE BATTLE MARKED THE BEGINNING OF THE END FOR THE %TRUSCAN CITIES AND THOUGH SOME CON
TINUED TO CLING TO INDEPENDENCE BY THE SECOND CENTURY "# MOST HAD BECOME RELUCTANT ALLIES OF THE 2OMANS !NY VESTIGES OF AUTONOMY WERE STRIPPED AWAY WHEN 0ERUGIA WAS DEFEATED A SECOND TIME A CONSEQUENCE OF THE POWER STRUGGLE THAT FOLLOWED THE MURDER OF *ULIUS #AESAR IN "# 4HIS EFFECTIVELY AMOUNTED TO A CONFRONTATION BETWEEN THE CONSUL -ARK !NTONY HIS BROTHER ,UCIUS AND /CTAVIUS #AESARS GREAT NEPHEW )N "# THE DISPUTE REACHED CRISIS POINT AND WHILE !NTONY WAS PREOCCUPIED WITH #LEOPATRA IN %GYPT /CTAVIUS SUC CEEDED IN HARRYING ,UCIUS FROM 2OME ,UCIUS UNHAPPILY FOR THE CITIZENS OF 0ERUGIA DECIDED TO TAKE REFUGE WITHIN THEIR WALLS n AN ACTION THAT RESULTED IN THE CITYS DESTRUCTION AT THE HANDS OF /CTAVIUS /CTAVIUS WENT ON TO PROCLAIM HIMSELF %MPEROR !UGUSTUS AND WITH THIS PROC LAMATION THE )MPERIAL !GE BEGAN 5NDER HIS RULE 5MBRIA CONTINUED TO ENJOY A PERIOD OF PROSPERITY THAT HAD BEGUN WITH THE OPENING OF THE 6IA &LAMINIA IN "# 4HE NEW ROAD LINKED 2OME TO THE !DRIATIC COAST AND TO THE CITIES OF THE NORTH AND GAVE 5MBRIA IMMENSE STRATEGIC IMPORTANCE )T SUPERSEDED THE 4IBER AS THE FOCAL POINT OF THE REGION AND BROUGHT IN ITS WAKE A MASSIVE INCREASE IN TRADE AND PROSPERITY COLONIES WERE BUILT FROM SCRATCH OR ON THE SITES OF 5MBRIAN AND %TRUSCAN SETTLEMENTS LAND WAS DRAINED AND ROADS CONSTRUCTED 5MBRIA n NAMED AS SUCH FOR THE lRST TIME n BECAME A UNIlED AND THRIVING PROVINCE
\ 4HE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND 5MBRIA
#HRISTIANITY SPREAD QUICKLY IN 5MBRIA THANKS MAINLY TO 2OMAN LINES OF COMMUNICATION "Y THE lRST CENTURY !$ TOWNS SUCH AS 3POLETO AND &OLIGNO HAD BECOME BISHOPRICS AND WITHIN YEARS MOST TOWNS HAD #HRISTIAN COM MUNITIES !S RELIGIOUS PRACTICE INCREASINGLY ADHERED TO THE MONASTIC PATTERN ESTABLISHED IN THE EASTERN -EDITERRANEAN IT WAS IN 5MBRIAS REMOTE COUNTRY SIDE HOWEVER RATHER THAN ITS CITIES THAT #HRISTIANITY FOUND ITS MOST ENDURING HOME 4HE lRST RECORDED MONASTERY WAS FOUNDED AT -ONTELUCO NEAR 3POLETO BY *ULIAN A 3YRIAN FROM !NTIOCH &ROM SUCH BEGINNINGS WAS BORN THE EXTRAOR DINARY RELIGIOUS AND MONASTIC TRADITION IN 5MBRIA THAT WAS TO CULMINATE WITH 3T &RANCIS NEARLY A MILLENNIUM LATER 3T "ENEDICT THE MOST SIGNIlCANT OF 5MBRIAS EARLY SAINTS WAS BORN IN .ORCIA IN !$ WITHIN A FEW YEARS OF THE DEPOSITION OF THE LAST 2OMAN %MPEROR AND AT THE VERY MOMENT THAT THE lRST "ARBARIAN INVADERS FROM THE NORTH WERE TURNING TOWARDS )TALY 4HE ORDER HE FOUNDED AND THE RULE HE DREW UP TO GUIDE ITS MEMBERS WERE OF INCALCULABLE IMPORTANCE IN ENSURING THE SURVIVAL OF 7ESTERN CULTURE IN THE TUMULT THAT FOLLOWED THE FALL OF 2OME 4HE RULE AIMED TO MOVE MEN TO A PERFECT LOVE OF 'OD THROUGH A COMBINATION OF PRAYER STUDY AND WORK THUS ENSURING THAT COUNTLESS MONKS WERE QUIETLY WORKING STUDYING AND PRESERV ING ASPECTS OF LEARNING THAT MIGHT OTHERWISE HAVE VANISHED FOR GOOD !S THE 'OTHS AND (UNS PLUNDERED THE COUNTRY 5MBRIA SUCCUMBED TO THE CONSEQUENCES OF PLAGUE AND FAMINE 4HE ONLY ORDER IN THESE DESPERATE TIMES CAME FROM THE CLERGY WHO BEGAN TO TAKE OVER THE CIVIC FUNCTIONS FORMERLY CARRIED OUT BY THE 2OMAN STATE "ISHOPS TOOK IT UPON THEMSELVES TO BECOME GENERALS FREQUENTLY INSTIGATING RESISTANCE TO THE INVADERS 7HILE ON THE FACE OF THINGS THEIR ACHIEVEMENTS SEEMED NEGLIGIBLE IN THAT VIRTUALLY EVERY 5MBRIAN CITY WAS RAZED TO THE GROUND THEY WON INCREASING RESPECT FOR THEMSELVES AND THE #HURCH THEY REPRESENTED
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%ARLY #HRISTIANITY AND THE BARBARIAN INVASIONS
!FTER THE DEATH OF THEIR LEADER 4OTILA AT 'UALDO 4ADINO THE 'OTHS WERE REPLACED BY THE ,OMBARDS WHO BY HAD ESTABLISHED THREE PRINCIPALITIES IN )TALY THE CENTRAL ONE OF WHICH CONTAINED MOST OF 5MBRIA AND HAD 3POLETO AS ITS CAPITAL 4HIS $UKEDOM OF 3POLETO WAS TO ACHIEVE GREAT IMPORTANCE THROUGHOUT CENTRAL )TALY DESPITE BEING CUT OFF FROM THE ,OMBARD KINGDOM CENTRED ON 0AVIA TO THE NORTH BY A NARROW CORRIDOR OF TERRITORY CONTROLLED BY THE "YZANTINES n A RIBBON OF LAND RUNNING FROM THE !DRIATIC TO 2OME INCLUDING .ARNI !MELIA 4ERNI AND 0ERUGIA 4HIS BUFFER STATE REMAINED A THORN IN THE ,OMBARDS SIDE FOR YEARS THOUGH IN 5MBRIA IT HAD THE EFFECT OF GUARANTEEING THE $UKEDOM OF 3POLETO CONSIDERABLE INDEPENDENCE OF ACTION A HABIT THAT IN THE COMING YEARS WOULD BE A HARD ONE TO BREAK 4HE ,OMBARDS GENERALLY ADOPTED THE MAN NERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE LOCAL PEOPLE ESTABLISHING AN ORDER WHICH BROUGHT A SHORT LIVED INCREASE IN ARTISTIC AND COMMERCIAL INITIATIVE !CKNOWLEDGING THE INCREASING GROWTH OF #HRISTIANITY THEY BUILT MONASTERIES ALONGSIDE THOSE OF THE "ENEDICTINES )N THE GROWING POWER OF THE PAPACY AS A FORCE IN )TALIAN POLITICS WAS ILLUS TRATED BY 0OPE 3TEPHEN )))S APPEAL TO THE &RANKS TO RID )TALY OF THE ,OMBARDS 4HE &RANKS TOOK UP THE INVITATION lRST UNDER 0EPIN THE 3HORT AND THEN UNDER HIS MORE FAMOUS SON #HARLEMAGNE "Y THE ,OMBARDS AND "YZANTINES HAD BOTH BEEN DRIVEN OUT OF THE COUNTRY
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\ 4HE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND 5MBRIA
"ETWEEN THE EMPIRE AND THE PAPACY 4HE PAPACY RECEIVED GREAT TRACTS OF LAND FROM #HARLEMAGNE WHO IN RETURN DEMANDED THAT 0OPE ,EO ))) CROWN HIM EMPEROR OF THE NEW (OLY 2OMAN %MPIRE 0EACE REIGNED WHILE #HARLEMAGNE LIVED BUT THE HARMONY BETWEEN PAPACY AND EMPIRE DISAPPEARED WITHIN A FEW YEARS OF HIS DEATH 4HE DIVISIONS AMONGST HIS SUCCESSORS AND THEIR PREOCCUPATIONS IN NORTHERN %UROPE AGAIN LEFT MUCH OF )TALY PREY TO INVASION AND CONmICT 4HE PAPACY WAS NO HEALTHIER WEAK ENED BY THE RIVAL CLAIMS OF POWERFUL FAMILIES WITH NO CENTRAL AUTHORITY IT WAS NOT LONG BEFORE THE WHOLE COUNTRY REVERTED ONCE MORE TO CHAOS 4HE ANARCHY OF THE NEXT FEW YEARS SET THE TONE OF EVENTS FOR CENTURIES TO COME -ANY TOWNS AND OLD 2OMAN CENTRES SUCH AS #ARSULAE NEAR 4ODI UNSUITED TO THE RIGOURS OF CONSTANT INVASION AND SIEGE WERE EITHER ABANDONED OR DESTROYED TO BE REPLACED BY FORTIlED VILLAS AND CASTLES FOR WHICH THE REGIONS HILLY TER RAIN WAS IDEAL !ROUND THESE FORTRESSES DEVELOPED INDEPENDENT AND SELF SUFlCIENT COMMUNITIES CREATING A PATTERN OF ISOLATED AMBITIOUS HILL TOWNS EACH WITH AN EYE ON THE TERRITORY OF ITS NEIGHBOUR 4HROUGHOUT THIS PERIOD )TALY WAS THE SCENE OF A COMPLICATED CONFUSED AND CONSTANTLY SHIFTING CONmICT BETWEEN THE PARTIES OF THE EMPIRE AND THE PAPACY THE 'UELPHS AND 'HIBELLINES SEE P !S ELSEWHERE 5MBRIAN TOWNS FRE QUENTLY SWITCHED THEIR ALLEGIANCES EXACTING NEW MEASURES OF INDEPENDENCE FROM WHOMEVER RULED THEM AT THE TIME IN EXCHANGE FOR PROMISES OF LOYALTY 9ET OF ALL ITS CITIES ONLY 0ERUGIA EVER REALLY CAME TO MERIT ATTENTION ON A NATIONAL SCALE )T HAD BECOME A FREE COMUNE IN OWING ITS WEALTH TO TRADE LINKS WITH 2OME AND THE BURGEONING ECONOMIC POWER OF &LORENCE AND WAS SOON THE PRIME MOVER IN ANY MACHINATIONS THAT AFFECTED THE REGION AS A WHOLE /CCASIONALLY HOWEVER THE 5MBRIANS WERE DISTRACTED FROM THEIR SQUABBLES BY EVENTS TAKING PLACE IN THE WORLD AT LARGE )N FOR EXAMPLE THE TRUCE
BETWEEN THE EMPIRE AND THE PAPACY PRODUCED BY THE #ONCORDAT OF 7ORMS WAS SHATTERED BY THE ELECTION OF A NEW AND AMBITIOUS EMPEROR &REDERICK (OHENSTAUFEN (IS DETERMINATION TO REASSERT THE POWER OF THE EMPIRE IN )TALY SPELT DOOM FOR THE 5MBRIAN CITIES WHO SOON HAD CAUSE TO FEAR THE MAN BET TER KNOWN BY HIS )TALIAN NICKNAME OF "ARBAROSSA !S HE MARCHED SOUTH SOME TOWNS SUCH AS !SSISI TOOK HIS SIDE WHILE OTHERS SUCH AS 0ERUGIA TRIED TO STAND UP TO HIM THE MAJORITY n OF WHICH 3POLETO WAS THE MOST NOTABLE EXAMPLE n WERE PARTLY OR COMPLETELY DESTROYED ,IKE #HARLEMAGNE BEFORE HIM "ARBAROSSA WAS UNABLE TO ENSURE THE SURVIVAL OF THE AUTHORITY HE HAD IMPOSED ON THE EMPIRE !FTER HIS DEATH 0OPE )NNOCENT ))) SET ABOUT EXPLOITING THE ANTI IMPERIALIST FEELING AROUSED IN )TALY BY THE FEROCITY OF HIS CAMPAIGNS AND TO ALLY IT WITH THE COLLECTIVE GUILT AT THE CAPTURE OF *ERU SALEM BY THE INlDEL 3ALADIN IN HOPING THEREBY TO RESURRECT PAPAL FORTUNES 7HEN HE CAME TO 5MBRIA HOWEVER HE MET WITH LITTLE SUCCESS CITIES SUCH AS 0ERUGIA AND 3POLETO BEING QUITE HAPPY TO ACCEPT NEW POWERS OF AUTONOMY BUT TURNING OBSTRUCTIVE WHEN PAPAL GOVERNORS WERE SENT TO OVERSEE THEM
-EDIEVAL COMMUNES AND WAR LORDS
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# / .4 % 8 4 3 4HE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND 5MBRIA
)N THE PAPACY MOVED TO !VIGNON AND THE OUTLOOK FOR THE #HURCH GREW EVEN MORE BLEAK FROM UNTIL WHEN %UROPE WAS DIVIDED IN ITS SUPPORT FOR RIVAL POPES IN 2OME AND &RANCE 4HE POWER VACUUM THAT RESULTED FROM THIS 'REAT 3CHISM WAS THE SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR IN ALLOWING THE DEVELOP MENT OF DEMOCRATIC COMMUNES IN CENTRAL )TALY !T THE SAME TIME THE INmUENCE OF THE OLDER NOBLE FAMILIES WAS ECLIPSED BY THE EMERGENCE OF A MERCANTILE CLASS BROUGHT TO PROMINENCE BY THE INCREASE AND DIVERSIlCATION OF TRADE 7ITH THE INmUX OF NEW MONEY AND NEW MEN SECULAR BUILDING TOOK PLACE ON AN UNPREC EDENTED SCALE GIVING THE RAPIDLY EXPANDING CITIES THE APPEARANCES THAT THEY HAVE LARGELY RETAINED TO THE PRESENT DAY ,IBERAL AND SOPHISTICATED CONSTITUTIONS WERE DRAWN UP TO ADMINISTER THE NEW TOWNS OF WHICH 3POLETOS INSTITUTED AT THE END OF THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY SERVES AS A TYPICAL EXAMPLE /RIGINALLY CIVIC ISSUES WERE DECIDED BY A SHOW OF HANDS IN THE ARRINGO A GENERAL ASSEMBLY OF ALL ADULT MALES CONVOKED IN THE CENTRAL PIAZZA "Y WHEN A NEW CONSTITUTION WAS DRAWN UP THE SIZE OF THE POPULATION HAD MADE SUCH AN ARRANGEMENT IMPRACTICABLE AND THE ROLE OF THE ARRINGO WAS REDUCED TO A BODY THAT COULD EXPRESS OPINIONS BUT NO LONGER TAKE DECISIONS 4HE LEGISLATIVE FUNCTION WAS TAKEN OVER BY A 'ENERAL #OUNCIL ELECTED FROM THE TWELVE PARISHES THAT MADE UP 3POLETOS ADMINISTRATIVE DISTRICTS &INAL EXECUTIVE AND JUDICIAL POWER LAY WITH THE PODESTÌ A KIND OF TROUBLESHOOTER ELECTED FOR A YEAR AND OFTEN BROUGHT IN FROM OUTSIDE THE CITY n AS IN 4USCANY (E WAS ANSWER ABLE TO THE CAPITANO DEL POPOLO A POLICE CHIEF AND APPEALS JUDGE WHO WAS ALSO RESPONSIBLE FOR THE DAY TO DAY RUNNING OF THE ADMINISTRATION "ELOW HIM WERE A HOST OF ELECTED MINOR OFlCIALS ALL OF WHOM WERE IN THE MANNER OF CONTEMPORARY )TALIAN BUREAUCRACY CONSTRAINED BY RIGID JOB SPECIlCATIONS 4HE THEORY WAS REASONABLE BUT THE PRACTICE WAS OFTEN RATHER DIFFERENT &IRST THE CITIES SPENT SO MUCH TIME ARGUING WITH THEIR NEIGHBOURS THAT THEIR ADMIN ISTRATIONS WERE OBLIGED TO BE ALMOST CONSTANTLY PREPARED FOR WAR 3ECOND TOWNS WERE PLAGUED BY CONTINUAL DISSENT FROM WITHIN AS 'UELPHS AND 'HIBELLINES FOUGHT EACH OTHER MOST OF THEM CITING THEIR ALLEGIANCES TO DISTANT AUTHORITY
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\ 4HE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND 5MBRIA
MERELY AS AN EXCUSE TO WIPE OUT LOCAL RIVALS AND SEIZE POWER #ITIZENS SOON CAME TO REALIZE THAT A STRONG EXECUTIVE WAS THE ONLY MEANS TO COMBAT SUCH DISORDER AND BEGAN TO ACCEPT THE DOMINATION OF FORCEFUL INDIVIDUALS USUALLY THE HEADS OF THE STRONGEST NOBLE FAMILIES OF THE MOMENT OR THE PERSON WHO COULD MUSTER THE LARGEST PRIVATE ARMY n IN MOST CASES ONE AND THE SAME MAN !T ABOUT THE SAME TIME OTHER POWERFUL INDIVIDUALS BEGAN TO lGURE IN 5MBRIAS AFFAIRS THE CONDOTTIERI OR ITINERANT PRIVATE SOLDIERS HIRED TO lGHT BAT TLES ON BEHALF OF THEIR CITIZENS -OST OF THEM WERE %NGLISH OR &RENCH REFUGEES FROM THE (UNDRED 9EARS 7AR OR 'ERMAN AND 3WISS STRAGGLERS FROM THE IMPERIAL ARMIES 3OME WERE ASTUTE ENOUGH TO FORM THEMSELVES INTO EFlCIENT BANDS AND SOON FOUND IN 5MBRIA A HEALTHY MARKET FOR THEIR SERVICES 4HE CITIES WERE LOSERS IN EVERY WAY IN THESE CONTRACTS WASTING MONEY ON UNRELIABLE ALLIES WHILE PROP ERTY WAS DESTROYED AND LAND PLUNDERED !DDED TO THIS THERE WAS THE EVERYDAY CHAOS PRODUCED BY WARRING NOBLE FAMILIES WHOSE DISPUTES WERE OFTEN SETTLED IN BLOODSHED WORTHY OF *ACOBEAN TRAGEDY 4AKING INTO ACCOUNT THE NORMAL RANGE OF CALAMITIES SUCH AS PLAGUE AND FAMINE WHICH COULD STRIKE THE MEDIEVAL WORLD AT ANY TIME LIFE IN 5MBRIA SHOULD HAVE BEEN INTOLERABLE "UT AGAINST THIS BACKGROUND OF VIOLENCE AND SUFFERING THE ARTISTIC AND INTELLEC TUAL LIFE OF THE REGION WENT FROM STRENGTH TO STRENGTH 4HE SAME SUBTLE CHANGES BEING WROUGHT THROUGHOUT NORTHERN )TALY THAT WERE TO CULMINATE IN THE 2EN AISSANCE WERE ALSO TAKING PLACE IN 5MBRIA )N RELIGION 3T &RANCIS HAD ALMOST SINGLE HANDEDLY REVITALIZED MANS RELATIONS TO THE DIVINE )N PAINTING #IMABUE 'IOTTO AND THEIR FOLLOWERS HAD INTRODUCED A NATURALISM THAT LEFT BEHIND THE STILTED BEAUTY OF THE "YZANTINES ! UNIVERSITY WAS FOUNDED IN 0ERUGIA AS EARLY AS AND THE lRST EDITION OF $ANTES $IVINE #OMEDY WAS PRINTED NOT IN &LOR ENCE BUT IN &OLIGNO
0APAL CONSOLIDATION AND THE 2ISORGIMENTO 'RADUALLY THE INlGHTING EXHAUSTED THE CITIES AND THE PAPACY n WHICH OUT OF CHOICE OR NECESSITY HAD LARGELY STOOD BACK FROM THE CENTURIES OF BLOODY DISOR DER n SEIZED THE OPPORTUNITY TO EXERT ITS POWER /NE BY ONE THE CITIES FELL 3PO LETO IN TO THE CRUSADING #ARDINAL !LBORNOZ &OLIGNO IN WHEN THE RULING 4RINCI FAMILY SURRENDERED TO SOLDIERS OF 0OPE %UGINIUS 6 3PELLO IN AFTER YEARS OF DESPOTIC RULE AND 'UBBIO IN HANDED OVER TO 5RBAN 6))) BY THE LAST OF THE RULING -ONTEFELTRO 4HE OLD CIVIC ADMINISTRATIONS WERE REPLACED BY PAPAL GOVERNORS AND FOR THE TWO CENTURIES BEFORE 5NIlCATION 5MBRIA SLUMBERED UNDER THE RULE OF THE #HURCH !LTHOUGH ORDER WAS RESTORED PEACE AND PAPAL RULE WERE NO GUARANTEE OF PROSPER ITY 4HE ISOLATION THAT HAD ONCE SERVED THE REGION SO WELL NOW BEGAN TO TELL AGAINST IT !BSENTEE LANDLORDS n AMONGST WHOM THE PAPACY lGURED LARGE n COLLECTED RENTS BUT TOOK LITTLE INTEREST IN LAND MANAGEMENT SO THAT THE SOIL DETERIORATED AND WITH IT THE AGRICULTURE ON WHICH 5MBRIA DEPENDED 3UCH INDUSTRY AS EXISTED WAS AGRICULTURE BASED AND SO SHARED IN ITS STAGNATION AND IN ANY CASE IT WAS CUT OFF FROM THE PROSPEROUS MARKETS TO THE NORTH BY POOR COMMUNICATIONS 4O ANYONE SURVEYING THE 5MBRIAN SCENE AT THE END OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY IT WOULD HAVE SEEMED AS IF VERY LITTLE HAD CHANGED IN ALMOST YEARS -ATTERS IMPROVED SOMEWHAT IN THE UPHEAVAL THAT FOLLOWED THE &RENCH 2EVO LUTION AND THE RULE OF .APOLEON WHEN THE &RENCH ORGANIZED THE REGION INTO
TWO DISTRICTS AND TRIED TO ENCOURAGE ECONOMIC GROWTH )N THE MORE LIBERAL ATMOSPHERE OF THE TIMES A MORE FREE THINKING CLASS OF MERCHANTS EMERGED WHICH THE RETURN OF PAPAL RULE AFTER .APOLEONS DEATH COULD DO LITTLE TO REPRESS "Y THE TIME OF THE BATTLE FOR THE 5NIlCATION OF )TALY THIS SPIRIT HAD FOUND BROADER AND MORE POPULAR SUPPORT AND 5MBRIA WELCOMED 'ARIBALDIS TROOPS INTO 0ERUGIA ON 3EPTEMBER 5NFORTUNATELY WHEN TRADE BARRIERS BETWEEN THE REGIONS WERE ABOLISHED THE 5MBRIAN ECONOMY WAS SUBJECTED TO THE RIGOURS OF FREE COMPETITION WITH WHICH IT WAS ILL EQUIPPED TO DEAL 4RADITIONAL CRAFT AND AGRICULTURAL INDUSTRIES CRUMBLED IN THE FACE OF INDUSTRIALIZATION IN THE NORTH 0RIVATE WEALTH REMAINED IDLE OR WAS INVESTED IN THE NORTH WHILE THE STATE FAILED TO MAKE THE IMPROVEMENTS TO THE REGIONS INFRASTRUCTURE THAT MIGHT HAVE HALTED THE AGRICULTURAL DECLINE
5MBRIA IN THE TWENTIETH CENTURY
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# / .4 % 8 4 3 4HE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND 5MBRIA
)N THE lRST YEARS OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY THE )TALIAN ECONOMY AS A WHOLE WAS ON AN UPSWING AND FOR A WHILE THINGS BEGAN TO LOOK UP FOR 5MBRIA AS WELL WITH LIGHT INDUSTRY APPEARING IN THE REGION FOR THE lRST TIME "UT THIS mICKER OF PROSPERITY CAME TO AN ABRUPT END WHEN THE SMALL "ANCA DI 0ERUGIA WHICH HAD BEEN LARGELY RESPONSIBLE FOR FUNDING THE NEW INVESTMENTS WAS SWALLOWED BY THE "ANCA #OMMERCIALE WHICH PREFERRED TO INVEST IN THE MORE PROlTABLE AND LESS RISKY VENTURES IN THE NORTH 7HERE THE CAPITAL WENT THE PEOPLE WENT TOO !LTHOUGH IN HALF THE REGIONS POPULATION WAS ILLITERATE THEY DID NOT NEED EDUCATION TO KNOW THAT THEIR FUTURE LAY OUTSIDE 5MBRIA 4HOUSANDS EMIGRATED TO !MERICA OR TO THE NEW FACTORIES OF 4URIN AND 'ERMANY LEAVING A POPULATION AT HOME WHO INCREAS INGLY SAW SOCIALISM AS THE ANSWER TO THE REGIONS ILLS "Y 5MBRIAS SCATTERED LEFT WING PARTIES COMMANDED PERCENT OF THE VOTE AND HAD ESTABLISHED CONTROL OF MANY LOCAL AND REGIONAL COUNCILS (OPES OF REFORM HOWEVER WERE QUICKLY DASHED BY THE RISE OF -USSOLINI EVEN IF THE PREPARATIONS FOR WAR DID PUT SOME ENERGY INTO THE REGIONAL ECONOMY 7ORLD 7AR )) LEFT 5MBRIA RELATIVELY UNSCATHED UNTIL THE 'ERMAN RETREAT UP THE PENINSULA WHEN THE KEY STRATEGIC CORRIDORS n BETWEEN ,AGO 4RASIMENO 0ERUGIA AND /RVIETO n MADE IT THE SEAT OF BITTER lGHTING 2ESISTANCE GROUPS WERE ACTIVE IN THE HILLS ABOVE THE MAIN VALLEYS WITH THE AREA AROUND 'UBBIO SEEING PARTICULARLY INTENSE PARTISAN ACTIVITY 0OSTWAR EMIGRATION RATES WERE HIGHER THAN EVER /NLY WHEN CENTRAL GOVERNMENT DEVOLVED MORE POWER TO THE REGIONS DID 5MBRIA BEGIN TO PROSPER 0OLITICAL CON TROL BY NOW WAS IN THE HANDS OF THE #OMMUNIST 0ARTY WHICH CAREFULLY DIRECTED FUNDS AT CO OPERATIVE VENTURES AND PROJECTS APPROPRIATE TO THE REGIONS SPECIAL NEEDS WITH TRANSPORT AGRICULTURE AND LATTERLY TOURISM AS THE MAIN PRIORITIES 2OAD AND RAIL LINKS AT LAST PROVIDED AN ECONOMIC LIFELINE TO 2OME AND THE NORTH &INALLY AND PERHAPS MOST IMPORTANTLY THE LAST FEW DECADES HAVE SEEN THE BIRTH OF WHAT CAN ONLY BE DESCRIBED AS A NEW PRIDE AND ENTHUSIASM IN 5MBRIA 4HERE IS STILL POVERTY AND THERE ARE STILL PROBLEMS BUT THERE IS ALSO A POWERFUL SENSE OF VIGOUR AND COMMUNITY WHICH SEEMS DETERMINED TO OVERCOME THEM )T IS A SPIRIT THAT EVEN THE MOST CASUAL VISITOR CANNOT FAIL TO NOTICE MANIFESTLY OBVIOUS IN THE REGIONS EXTRAORDINARY RANGE OF CULTURAL EVENTS THE DIVERSITY AND SKILL OF ITS CRAFTSPEOPLE THE 5MBRIANS OWN OBVIOUS PRIDE IN THEIR COUNTRYSIDE AND THEIR HERITAGE AND A HOST OF MORE MINOR SIGNS THAT AT LAST POINT TO PROGRESS
! DIRECTORY OF ARTISTS AND ARCHITECTS
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!GOSTINO DI $UCCIO n "ORN IN &LORENCE !GOSTINO SERVED AS A MERCENARY BEFORE TURNING TO SCULPTURE (AVING POSSIBLY STUDIED WITH *ACOPO DELLA 1UERCIA HE CARVED THE ALTARPIECE FOR -ODENA CATHE DRAL THEN RETURNED TO &LORENCE IN (IS MASTERPIECE IS THE 4EMPIO -ALATESTIANO IN 2IMINI ON WHICH !LBERTI AND 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCA ALSO WORKED 4HE BEST EXAMPLE IN THIS REGION OF HIS MARBLE RELIEF WORK WITH ITS EMPHASIS ON LINEAR GRACE IS THE /RATORIO DI 3AN "ERNARDINO IN 0ERU GIA (E RETURNED TO &LORENCE BRIEmY IN THE S A PERIOD DURING WHICH HE SPOILED THE MARBLE BLOCK THAT WAS TO BECOME -ICHELANGELOS $AVID !LBERTI ,EON "ATTISTA n "ORN ILLEGITIMATELY TO A &LORENTINE EXILE PROBABLY IN 'ENOA !LBERTI WAS EDUCATED IN 0ADUA AND "OLOGNA /NE OF THE MOST COMPLETE PERSONIlCATIONS OF THE 2ENAISSANCE IDEAL OF UNIVER SAL GENIUS HE WAS ABOVE ALL A WRITER AND THEORIST HIS $E 2E !EDIlCATORIA WAS THE lRST ARCHITECTURAL TREA TISE OF THE 2ENAISSANCE AND HE ALSO WROTE A TRACT ON THE ART OF PAINTING $ELLA 0ITTURA DEDICATED TO HIS FRIEND "RUNELLESCHI (IS THEORY OF HARMONIC PROPORTIONS IN MUSICAL AND VISUAL FORMS WAS lRST PUT INTO PRACTICE IN THE FACADE OF 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA IN &LORENCE WHILE HIS ARCHEOLOGICAL INTEREST IN CLASSICAL ARCHITECTURE FOUND EXPRESSION IN THE SAME CITYS 0AL AZZO 2UCELLAI HIS lRST INDEPENDENT PROJECT %VEN MORE CLOSELY LINKED TO HIS RESEARCHES INTO THE STYLES OF ANTIQ UITY IS THE MINIATURE TEMPLE BUILT FOR THE 2UCELLAI FAMILY IN THE CHURCH OF 3AN 0ANCRAZIO (IS OTHER BUILDINGS ARE IN -ANTUA AND 2IMINI !LBERTINELLI -ARIOTTO n ! COLLEAGUE OF &RA "ARTOLOM MEO IN THE WORKSHOP IN 3AN -ARCO
!LBERTINELLI ABANDONED PAINTING TO BE AN INNKEEPER (IS BEST WORK IS THE 5FlZI 6ISITATION !LUNNO .ICOLÛ n 4HE GREATEST OF THE PURELY 5MBRIAN PAINTERS BEFORE 0ERUGINO !LUNNO WAS PROBABLY THE PUPIL OF THE 6ENETIAN #ARLO #RIVELLI WHOSE BRIGHT COLOUR ING AND PRECISE CONTOURS ARE A FEA TURE OF HIS WORK %MOTIONALLY MORE INTENSE THAN 0ERUGINO HE USUALLY REJECTS THE CONVENTIONAL DULCET PAS TORALISM OF 5MBRIAN ART FOR A BLEAKER LANDSCAPE SUCH AS THAT AROUND 'UB BIO AND &OLIGNO !MMANNATI "ARTOLOMEO n ! &LORENTINE SCULPTOR ARCHITECT MUCH INDEBTED TO -ICHELANGELO !MMANNATI IS BEST KNOWN FOR HIS ADDITIONS AND AMENDMENTS TO THE 0ALAZZO 0ITTI AND FOR THE GRACE FUL 0ONTE 3AN 4RÖNITA THOUGH IN ALL LIKELIHOOD THIS WAS LARGELY DESIGNED BY -ICHELANGELO (E CREATED THE FOUNTAIN IN THE 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA WITH SOME ASSISTANCE FROM HIS PUPIL 'IAMBOLOGNA AND THE "ARGELLO CON TAINS SOME OF HIS PIECES MADE FOR THE "ØBOLI GARDENS !NDREA DEL 3ARTO n 4HE DOMINANT ARTIST IN &LORENCE AT THE TIME OF -ICHELANGELO AND 2APHAELS ASCENDANCY IN 2OME (IS STRENGTHS ARE NOT THOSE ASSOCIATED WITH &LOREN TINE DRAUGHTSMANSHIP BEING MORE 6ENETIAN IN HIS EMPHASIS ON DELICACY OF COLOUR AND THE PRIMACY OF LIGHT (E MADE HIS NAME WITH FRESCOES FOR TWO &LORENTINE CHURCHES IN THE 3AN -ARCO DISTRICT n THE 3CALZO AND 3AN TISSIMA !NNUNZIATA &OR A PERIOD IN THE S HE WAS IN &RANCE AND THE RECEIVED WISDOM IS THAT HIS TALENT DID NOT DEVELOP AFTER THAT (OWEVER TWO OF HIS OTHER MAJOR WORKS IN &LORENCE DATE FROM AFTER HIS RETURN n THE ,AST 3UPPER IN 3AN 3ALVI AND THE -ADONNA
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"OTTICELLI 3ANDRO Cn 0OSSIBLY A PUPIL OF &ILIPPO ,IPPI "OTTICELLI WAS CERTAINLY INmUENCED BY THE 0OLLAIUOLO BROTHERS WHOSE PAINT INGS OF THE 6IRTUES HE COMPLETED 4HE MYTHOLOGICAL PAINTINGS FOR WHICH HE IS CELEBRATED n INCLUDING THE "IRTH OF 6ENUS AND 0RIMAVERA n ARE DISTIN GUISHED BY THEIR EMPHASIS ON LINE RATHER THAN MASS AND BY THEIR COM PLICATED SYMBOLIC MEANING A REmEC TION ON HIS INVOLVEMENT WITH THE .EO 0LATONIST PHILOSOPHERS WHOM THE -EDICI GATHERED ABOUT THEM )N THE LAST DECADE OF HIS LIFE HIS LUCID SLIGHTLY ARCHAIC STYLE SUFFERED FROM COMPARISON WITH THE MORE RADICAL PAINTINGS OF -ICHELANGELO AND ,EON ARDO DA 6INCI AND HIS DEVOTIONAL PIC TURES BECAME ALMOST CLUMSILY DIDACTIC n A RESULT PERHAPS OF HIS INVOLVEMENT WITH 3AVONAROLA AND HIS FOLLOWERS "RONZINO !GNOLO n 4HE ADOPTED SON OF 0ONTORMO "RONZINO BECAME THE COURT PAINTER TO #OSIMO ) (E FRESCOED PARTS OF THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO FOR %LEANOR OF 4OLEDO BUT HIS REPUTATION RESTS ON HIS GLACIALLY ELEGANT PORTRAITS WHOSE SURFACE BRILLIANCE MAKES NO DISCRIMINATION BETWEEN THE FACES OF THE SUBJECTS AND THEIR APPAREL "RUNELLESCHI &ILIPPO n 4RAINED AS A SCULPTOR AND GOLDSMITH "RUNELLESCHI ABANDONED THIS CAREER AFTER HIS FAILURE IN THE COMPETITION FOR THE &LORENCE BAPTISTERY DOORS 4HE MAIN PRODUCT OF THIS PERIOD IS HIS CONTRIBUTION TO THE 3T *AMES ALTARPIECE IN 0ISTOIA (E THEN DEVOTED HIMSELF TO THE STUDY OF THE BUILD ING TECHNIQUES OF THE #LASSICAL ERA TRAVELLING TO 2OME WITH $ONATELLO IN )N HE SUBMITTED HIS DESIGN FOR THE DOME OF &LORENCES $UOMO AND ALL HIS SUBSEQUENT WORK WAS IN THAT CITY n 3AN ,ORENZO THE 3PEDALE DEGLI )NNOCENTI #APPELLA 0AZZI 3ANTA #ROCE AND 3ANTA 3PIRITO 5NLIKE THE OTHER GREAT ARCHITECT OF THIS PERIOD !LBERTI HIS WORK IS BASED ON NO THEORETICAL PREMISE BUT RATHER ON AN EMPIRICISTS ADMIRATION FOR
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DEL 3ACCO IN THE CLOISTER OF THE !NNUN ZIATA (IS MAJOR EASEL PAINTING IS THE -ADONNA OF THE (ARPIES IN THE 5FlZI !RNOLFO DI #AMBIO Cn 0UPIL OF .ICOLA 0ISANO WITH WHOM HE WORKED ON SCULPTURAL PROJECTS IN "OLOGNA 3IENA AND 0ERUGIA BEFORE GOING TO 2OME IN 4HE MOST IMPORTANT OF HIS INDEPENDENT SCULP TURES ARE THE PIECES IN &LORENCES -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO AND THE 4OMB OF #ARDINAL DE "RAYE IN 3AN $OMENICO IN /RVIETO 4HE LATTER DElNED THE FORMAT OF WALL TOMBS FOR THE NEXT CENTURY SHOWING THE DECEASED LYING ON A COFlN BELOW THE -ADONNA AND #HILD SET WITHIN AN ELABORATE ARCHITECTURAL FRAMEWORK (OWEVER !RNOLFO IS BEST KNOWN AS THE ARCHITECT OF &LORENCES $UOMO AND 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO AND VARIOUS FOR TIlCATIONS IN CENTRAL 4USCANY INCLUD ING THE FORTRESS AT 0OPPI "ANDINELLI "ACCIO n "ORN IN &LORENCE "ANDINELLI TRAINED AS A GOLDSMITH SCULPTOR AND PAINTER (E PERCEIVED HIMSELF AS AN EQUAL TALENT TO -ICHELANGELO AND TO #EL LINI HIS MOST VOCAL CRITIC $ESPITE MANIFEST SHORTCOMINGS AS A SCULPTOR HE WAS GIVEN PRESTIGIOUS COMMISSIONS BY #OSIMO ) THE MOST CONSPICUOUS OF WHICH IS THE (ERCULES AND #ACUS OUTSIDE THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO /THER PIECES BY HIM ARE IN THE "ARGELLO "ECCAFUMI $OMENICO n 4HE LAST GREAT 3IENESE PAINTER "ECCAFUMI WAS IN 2OME DURING THE PAINTING OF THE 3ISTINE CHAPEL CEILING AND 2APHAELS 3TANZE (E RETURNED TO 3IENA IN WHEN HIS WORK SHOWED TENDENCIES THAT WERE TO BECOME PREVALENT IN -ANNERIST ART n CONTORTED POSES STRONG LIGHTING VIVID ARTIlCIAL COLORATION (IS DECO RATIVE SKILL IS ESPECIALLY EVIDENT IN HIS ILLUSIONIST FRESCOES IN THE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO AND THE PAVEMENT OF THE $UOMO "ENEDETTO DA -AIANO n &LORENTINE SCULPTOR BEST KNOWN FOR HIS PORTRAIT BUSTS IN THE "ARGELLO AND THE PULPIT IN 3ANTA #ROCE
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\ ! DIRECTORY OF ARTISTS AND ARCHITECTS
THE BUILDINGS OF 2OME !ND UNLIKE !LBERTI HE OVERSAW EVERY STAGE OF CONSTRUCTION EVEN DEVISING MACHIN ERY THAT WOULD PERMIT THE RAISING OF THE INNOVATIVE STRUCTURES HE HAD PLANNED "UONARROTI -ICHELANGELO n 3EE lRST COLOUR INSERT "UONTALENTI "ERNARDO Cn &LORENTINE ARCHITECT WHO BEGAN AS A MILITARY ARCHITECT TO THE PAPACY -UCH OF HIS LATER OUTPUT WAS FOR THE COURT OF THE -EDICI n THE GROTTO OF THE "ØBOLI GARDENS THE GARDENS OF THE VILLA AT 0RATOLINO AND TABLEAUX FOR COURT SPECTACULARS ,ESS FRIVOLOUS WORK INCLUDED THE &ORTEZZA DEL "ELVEDERE THE FACADE OF 3ANTA 4RÖNITA THE VILLA !RTIMINO AND THE FORTIlCATIONS AT ,IVORNO #ASTAGNO !NDREA Cn 4HE EARLY YEARS OF #ASTAGNOS LIFE ARE MYSTERIOUS AND THE EXACT YEAR OF HIS BIRTH IS NOT KNOWN !ROUND HE PAINTED THE PORTRAITS OF SOME EXECUT ED REBELS IN THE "ARGELLO A JOB THAT EARNED HIM THE NICKNAME h!NDREA OF THE (ANGED -ENv )N HE WAS WORKING IN 6ENICE BUT A COUPLE OF YEARS LATER HE WAS BACK IN &LORENCE CREATING STAINED GLASS FOR THE $UOMO AND FRESCOES FOR 3ANT!POLLONIA (IS TAUT SINEWY STYLE IS TO A LARGE EXTENT DERIVED FROM THE SCULPTURE OF HIS CONTEMPORARY $ONATELLO AN AFlNITY THAT IS ESPECIALLY CLEAR IN HIS FRESCOES FOR 3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATA /THER MAJOR WORKS IN &LORENCE INCLUDE THE SERIES OF &AMOUS -EN AND 7OMEN IN THE 5FlZI AND THE PORTRAIT OF .ICCOLÛ DA 4OLENTINO IN THE $UOMO n HIS LAST PIECE #ELLINI "ENVENUTO n #EL LINI BEGAN HIS CAREER IN 2OME WHERE HE FOUGHT IN THE SIEGE OF THE CITY BY THE IMPERIAL ARMY IN (IS SCULPTURE IS GREATLY INmUENCED BY -ICHELANGELO AS IS EVIDENT IN HIS MOST FAMOUS LARGE SCALE PIECE THE 0ERSEUS IN THE ,OGGIA DELLA 3IGNORIA (IS OTHER MASTERPIECE IN &LORENCE IS THE HEROIC "UST OF #OSIMO ) IN THE "ARGELLO #ELLINI WAS AN EVEN MORE
ACCOMPLISHED GOLDSMITH AND JEWEL LER CREATING SOME EXQUISITE PIECES FOR &RANCIS ) BY WHOM HE WAS EMPLOYED IN THE S AND S (E ALSO WROTE A RACY !UTOBIOGRAPHY A FASCINAT ING INSIGHT INTO THE ARTISTIC WORLD OF SIXTEENTH CENTURY )TALY AND &RANCE #IMABUE Cn 4HOUGH CELEBRATED BY $ANTE AS THE FOREMOST PAINTER OF THE GENERATION BEFORE 'IOTTO VERY LITTLE IS KNOWN ABOUT #IMABUE n IN FACT THE ONLY WORK THAT IS DElNITELY BY HIM IS THE MOSAIC IN 0ISAS $UOMO (E IS GENERALLY GIVEN CREDIT FOR THE SOFTENING OF THE HIERATIC "YZANTINE STYLE OF RELIGIOUS ART A TENDENCY CARRIED FURTHER BY HIS PUTATIVE PUPIL 'IOTTO 3OME WORKS CAN BE ATTRIBUTED TO HIM WITH MORE CONlDENCE THAN OTHERS THE SHORTLIST WOULD INCLUDE 4HE -ADONNA OF 3T &RANCIS IN THE LOWER CHURCH AT !SSISI THE 0ASSION CYCLE IN THE UPPER CHURCH THE -AESTÌ IN THE 5FlZI AND THE CRU CIlXES IN 3ANTA #ROCE &LORENCE AND 3AN $OMENICO !REZZO #IVITALI -ATTEO n 0ROBABLY SELF TAUGHT SCULPTOR FROM ,UCCA WHERE ALL HIS IMPORTANT WORK IS TO BE FOUND $ADDI "ERNARDO Cn ! PUPIL OF 'IOTTO $ADDI COMBINED THE SOLIDITY OF HIS MASTERS STYLE WITH THE MORE DECORATIVE ASPECTS OF THE 3IEN ESE STYLE (IS WORK CAN BE SEEN IN THE 5FlZI AND 3ANTA #ROCE IN &LORENCE $ESIDERIO DA 3ETTIGNANO Cn $ESIDERIO CONTINUED THE LOW RELIEF TECHNIQUE PIONEERED BY $ONATELLO IN THE PANEL FOR THE /RSANMICHELE 3T 'EORGE AND CARVED THE TOMB OF #ARLO -ARSUPPINI IN 3ANTA #ROCE &LORENCE "ETTER KNOWN FOR HIS EXQUISITE BUSTS OF WOMEN AND CHILDREN A GOOD SELECTION OF WHICH ARE ON SHOW IN THE "ARGELLO $ONATELLO Cn ! PUPIL OF 'HIBERTI $ONATELLO ASSISTED IN THE CASTING OF THE lRST SET OF &LOR ENCE "APTISTERY DOORS IN THEN WORKED FOR .ANNI DI "ANCO ON THE $UOMO (IS EARLY MARBLE $AVID "ARGELLO IS STILL 'OTHIC IN ITS FORM
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.OVELLA n THE -AESTÌ NOW IN THE 5FlZI n BUT THE BULK OF HIS OUTPUT IS IN HIS HOME CITY $ESPITE FREQUENT RUCTIONS WITH THE CIVIC AUTHORITIES FOR REFUSING TO DO MILITARY SERVICE AMONG OTHER TRANSGRESSIONS IN HE RECEIVED HIS MOST PRESTIGIOUS ASSIGNMENT THE PAINTING OF A -AESTÌ FOR 3IENAS $UOMO 4HE POLYPTYCH NO LONGER EXISTS IN ITS ORIGINAL FORM BUT MOST OF THE PANELS ARE NOW IN 3IENAS -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO 4HIS ICONIC IMAGE OF THE -ADONNA WITH ITS RICH USE OF GOLD AND DECORATIVE COLOUR WAS TO PROFOUNDLY INmUENCE SUCH PAINTERS AS THE ,ORENZETTIS AND 3IMONE -ARTINI WHILE THE SMALL SCENES ON THE BACK OF THE PANELS REVEAL A LESS FREQUENTLY ACKNOWLEDGED MASTERY OF NARRATIVE PAINTING &RA !NGELICO n "ORN IN 6ICCHIO &RA !NGELICO JOINED THE $OMINICAN ORDER IN &IESOLE NEAR HIS HOME TOWN AND LATER ENTERED THEIR MONASTERIES IN #ORTONA AND &OLIGNO (IS lRST AUTHENTICATED PAINT ING DATES FROM THE MID S BUT THE lRST ONE THAT CAN BE DElNITELY DATED IS A -ADONNA HE PRODUCED FOR THE LINEN GUILD OF &LORENCE IN 4HREE YEARS LATER THE $OMINICANS TOOK OVER THE 3AN -ARCO MONAS TERY IN &LORENCE AND SOON AFTER HE EMBARKED ON THE SERIES OF FRESCOES AND ALTARPIECES NOW DISPLAYED IN THE MUSEUM THERE )N THE MID S HE WAS CALLED TO 2OME TO WORK ON THE 6ATICAN AFTER WHICH HE WORKED AT /RVIETO SERVED FOR THREE YEARS AS PRIOR OF THE MONASTERY IN &IESOLE AND RETURNED TO 2OME AROUND WHERE HE DIED &OR ALL THEIR SOPHIS TICATION OF TECHNIQUE &RA !NGELICOS PAINTINGS WITH THEIR ATMOSPHERE OF TRANQUIL PIETY SEEM TO BELONG TO A LESS COMPLEX WORLD THAN THAT INHAB ITED BY $ONATELLO HIS CONTEMPORARY (IS ALTARPIECES OF THE -ADONNA AND 3AINTS n A GENRE KNOWN AS SACRE CON VERSAZIONE n WERE HOWEVER EXTREMELY INmUENTIAL COMPOSITIONS &RA "ARTOLOMMEO Cn &RA "ARTOLOMMEOS EARLIEST KNOWN
# / .4 % 8 4 3 ! DIRECTORY OF ARTISTS AND ARCHITECTS
BUT A NEW DEPARTURE IS EVIDENT IN HIS HEROIC 3T -ARK FOR /RSANMICHELE n POSSIBLY PRODUCED AFTER A STUDY OF THE SCULPTURE OF ANCIENT 2OME &OUR YEARS LATER HE BEGAN THE INTENSE SERIES OF PROPHETS FOR THE #AMPANILE AND AT THE SAME TIME PRODUCED THE 3T 'EORGE FOR /RSAN MICHELE THE EPITOME OF EARLY 2EN AISSANCE HUMANISM FEATURING A RELIEF THAT IS THE VERY lRST APPLICATION OF RIGOROUS PERSPECTIVE IN 7ESTERN ART )N THE MID S $ONATELLO STARTED A PARTNERSHIP WITH -ICHELOZZO WITH WHOM HE CREATED THE TOMB OF 0OPE *OHN 88))) IN THE &LORENCE "APTISTERY A RElNEMENT OF THE GENRE INITIATED BY !RNOLFO DI #AMBIO (E WENT TO 2OME IN POSSIBLY WITH "RUNELLESCHI AND IT WAS PROBABLY ON HIS RETURN THAT HE MADE THE CLASSICAL BRONZE $AVID "ARGELLO ONE OF THE lRST NUDE STATUES OF THE 2ENAISSANCE PERIOD !LSO AT THIS TIME HE MADE THE CANTORIA TO BE PLACED OPPOSITE THE ONE ALREADY MADE BY ,UCA DELLA 2OBBIA THE PULPIT FOR 0RATO CATHE DRAL WITH -ICHELOZZO AND THE DEC ORATIONS FOR THE OLD SACRISTY IN &LOR ENCES CHURCH OF 3AN ,ORENZO n THE PARISH CHURCH OF HIS GREAT PATRONS THE -EDICI !FTER A PERIOD IN 0ADUA n WHERE HE CREATED THE lRST BRONZE EQUES TRIAN STATUE SINCE 2OMAN TIMES n HE RETURNED TO &LORENCE WHERE HIS LAST WORKS SHOW AN EXTRAORDINARY HARSH NESS AND ANGULARITY 4HE MAIN SCULP TURES FROM THIS PERIOD ARE THE *UDITH AND (OLOFERNES 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO THE -AGDALENE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO AND THE TWO BRONZE PULPITS FOR 3AN ,ORENZO $UCCIO DI "UONINSEGNA Cn C 4HOUGH OCCUPYING MUCH THE SAME PIVOTAL POSITION IN THE HIS TORY OF 3IENESE ART AS 'IOTTO DOES IN &LORENTINE ART $UCCIO WAS A LESS REVOLUTIONARY lGURE RElNING THE STATELY "YZANTINE TRADITION RATHER THAN SUBVERTING ITS CONVENTIONS /NE OF HIS EARLIEST WORKS WAS ORDERED BY &LORENCES CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA
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WORK IS THE 2APHAEL INmUENCED ,AST *UDGEMENT PAINTED FOR THE 3AN -ARCO MONASTERY IN &LORENCE IN 4HE FOLLOWING YEAR HE BECAME A MONK THERE THEN IN BECAME HEAD OF THE WORKSHOP A POST PREVIOUSLY OCCUPIED BY &RA !NGELICO )N HE WAS IN 2OME BUT ACCORDING TO 6ASARI WAS DISCOURAGED BY 2APHAELS FAME 4HE WORKS HE LATER PRODUCED IN &LORENCE HAD AN INmUENCE ON (IGH 2ENAISSANCE ART WITH THEIR REPRESSION OF ELABORATE BACKGROUNDS AND ANEC DOTAL DETAIL CONCENTRATING INSTEAD ON EXPRESSION AND GESTURE &RANCESCO DI 'IORGIO -ARTINI n 3IENESE PAINTER SCULPTOR AND ARCHITECT WHOSE TREATISE ON ARCHITECTURAL THEORY WAS CIRCU LATED WIDELY IN MANUSCRIPT FORM ,EONARDO HAD A COPY %MPLOYED FOR A LONG PERIOD BY &EDERICO DA -ON TEFELTRO n ALSO A PATRON OF 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCA n HE PROBABLY DESIGNED THE LOGGIA FOR THE 0ALAZZO $UCALE IN 5RBINO AND THE CHURCH OF 3AN "ER NARDINO 4HE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA DEGLI !NGELI IN 3IENA AND THE 0ALAZZO $UCALE IN 'UBBIO MIGHT BE BY HIM THE ONE 4USCAN BUILDING THAT WAS CER TAINLY DESIGNED BY HIM IS 3ANTA -ARIA DEL #ALCINAIO IN #ORTONA ONE OF THE lNEST EARLY 2ENAISSANCE STRUCTURES IN )TALY 'ADDI 4ADDEO D !CCORD ING TO TRADITION 4ADDEO 'ADDI WORKED WITH 'IOTTO FOR YEARS AND THROUGHOUT HIS LIFE BARELY WAVERED FROM THE PRECEPTS OF HIS MASTERS STYLE (IS lRST MAJOR INDEPENDENT WORK IS THE CYCLE FOR THE #APPELLA "ARON CELLI IN 3ANTA #ROCE &LORENCE /THER WORKS BY HIM ARE IN &LORENCES 5FlZI !CCADEMIA "ARGELLO AND -USEO (ORNE !GNOLO 'ADDI D 4ADDEOS SON CONTINUED HIS FATHERS 'IOT TESQUE STYLE HIS MAJOR PROJECTS WERE FOR 3ANTA #ROCE IN &LORENCE AND THE $UOMO OF 0RATO 'ENTILE DA &ABRIANO Cn #HIEF EXPONENT OF THE )NTER NATIONAL 'OTHIC STYLE IN )TALY 'ENTILE
DA &ABRIANO CAME TO &LORENCE IN WHEN HE PAINTED THE GORGEOUS !DORATION OF THE -AGI NOW IN THE 5FlZI )N HE WENT ON TO 3IENA AND /RVIETO WHERE THE INTELLECTUAL CLIMATE WAS PERHAPS MORE CONDUCIVE THAN THAT IN THE &LORENCE OF -ASAC CIO HE lNISHED HIS CAREER IN 2OME 'HIBERTI ,ORENZO n 4RAINED AS A GOLDSMITH PAINTER AND SCULPTOR 'HIBERTI CONCENTRATED ON THE LAST DISCIPLINE ALMOST EXCLUSIVELY AFTER WINNING THE COMPETITION TO DESIGN THE DOORS FOR &LORENCES BAP TISTERY (IS lRST SET OF DOORS ARE TO A LARGE EXTENT DERIVED FROM !NDREA 0ISANOS EARLIER 'OTHIC PANELS FOR THE BUILDING YET HIS WORKSHOP WAS A VIRTUAL ACADEMY FOR THE SEMINAL lG URES OF THE EARLY &LORENTINE 2ENAIS SANCE $ONATELLO AND 5CCELLO AMONG THEM 4HE COMMISSION TOOK AROUND TWENTY YEARS TO COMPLETE DURING WHICH TIME HE ALSO WORKED ON THE 3IENA BAPTISTERY AND THE CHURCH OF /RSANMICHELE IN &LORENCE WHERE HIS "APTIST AND 3T -ATTHEW SHOW THE INmUENCE OF CLASSICAL STATUARY 4HIS CLASSICISM REACHED ITS PEAK IN THE SECOND SET OF DOORS FOR &LORENCES BAPTISTERY THE 'ATES OF 0ARADISE n TAKING THE INNOVATIONS OF $ONATEL LOS LOW RELIEF CARVING TO A NEW PITCH OF PERFECTION 4HE PANELS OCCUPIED MUCH OF THE REST OF HIS LIFE BUT IN HIS lNAL YEARS HE WROTE HIS #OMMENTARII THE MAIN SOURCE OF INFORMATION ON FOURTEENTH CENTURY ART IN &LORENCE AND 3IENA AND THE lRST AUTOBIOGRA PHY BY AN ARTIST 'HIRLANDAIO $OMENICO n 4HE MOST ACCOMPLISHED FRESCO ARTIST OF HIS GENERATION 'HIRLANDAIO WAS THE TEACHER OF -ICHELANGELO !FTER A SHORT PERIOD WORKING ON THE 3ISTINE #HAPEL WITH "OTTICELLI HE CAME BACK TO &LORENCE WHERE HIS CYCLES IN 3ANTA 4RÖNITA AND 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA PROVIDE SOME OF THE MOST ABSORBING DOCUMENTARY IMAGES OF THE TIME BEING lLLED WITH CON TEMPORARY PORTRAITS AND VIVID ANEC DOTAL DETAILS
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#AMPOSANTO WAS ALL BUT DESTROYED IN 7ORLD 7AR )) HIS OTHER SURVIVING FRESCO CYCLES INCLUDE THE ,IFE OF 3T &RANCIS IN -ONTEFALCO AND THE ,IFE OF 3T !UGUSTINE IN 3AN 'IMIGNANO 'UIDO DA 3IENA ACTIVE MID THIR TEENTH CENTURY 'UIDO WAS THE FOUNDER OF THE 3IENESE SCHOOL OF PAINTERS BUT HIS LIFE IS ONE OF THE MOST PROBLEMATIC AREAS OF 3IENAS ART HISTORY ! SIGNED PAINTING BY HIM IN THE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO IS DATED BUT SOME EXPERTS THINK THAT THE DATE MAY HAVE BEEN ALTERED AND THAT THE WORK IS FROM THE S OR S n A PERIOD WHEN OTHER PICTURES ASSOCI ATED WITH HIM ARE KNOWN TO HAVE BEEN PAINTED ,EONARDO DA 6INCI n ,EONARDO TRAINED AS A PAINTER UNDER 6ERROCCHIO AND IT IS SAID THAT HIS PRECOCIOUS TALENT CAUSED HIS MASTER TO ABANDON PAINTING IN FAVOUR OF SCULPTURE $RAWINGS OF LANDSCAPES AND DRAPERY HAVE SURVIVED FROM THE S BUT THE lRST COMPLETED PICTURE IS THE !NNUNCIATION IN THE 5FlZI 4HE SKETCH OF THE !DORATION OF THE -AGI ALSO IN THE 5FlZI DATES FROM AT WHICH TIME THERE WAS NO PRECEDENT FOR ITS FUSION OF GEOMETRIC FORM AND DYNAMIC ACTION 4WO YEARS LATER HE WAS IN THE EMPLOYMENT OF ,ODOVICO 3FORZA OF -ILAN REMAINING THERE FOR SIXTEEN YEARS $URING THIS SECOND PHASE OF HIS CAREER HE PRODUCED THE ,ADY WITH THE %RMINE +RAKØW THE FRESCO OF THE ,AST 3UPPER AND n PROB ABLY n THE TWO VERSIONS OF 4HE 6IRGIN OF THE 2OCKS THE FULLEST DEMONSTRA TIONS TO DATE OF HIS SO CALLED SFUMATO A BLURRING OF TONES FROM LIGHT TO DARK )NNUMERABLE SCIENTIlC STUDIES AND MILITARY PROJECTS ENGAGED HIM AT THIS TIME AND HE ALSO MADE A MASSIVE CLAY MODEL FOR AN EQUESTRIAN STATUE OF &RANCESCO 3FORZA n NEVER COMPLETED LIKE SO MANY OF HIS SCHEMES 7HEN THE &RENCH TOOK -ILAN IN ,EONARDO RETURNED TO &LORENCE WHERE HE DEVOTED MUCH OF HIS TIME TO ANATOMICAL RESEARCHES )T WAS DUR ING THIS SECOND &LORENTINE PERIOD
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'IAMBOLOGNA n "ORN IN NORTHERN &RANCE 'IAMBOLOGNA n *EAN DE "OULOGNE n ARRIVED IN )TALY IN THE MID S BECOMING THE MOST INmUENTIAL &LORENTINE SCULPTOR AFTER -ICHELANGELOS DEATH (AVING HELPED !MMANNATI ON THE FOUNTAIN FOR THE 0IAZZA DELLA 3IGNORIA HE WENT ON TO PRODUCE A SUCCESSION OF PIECES THAT TYPIFY THE -ANNERIST PREDILECTION FOR SCULPTURES WITH MULTIPLE VIEW POINTS SUCH AS THE 2APE OF THE 3ABINES ,OGGIA DELLA 3IGNORIA AND THE -ER CURY "ARGELLO (IS WORKSHOP ALSO TURNED OUT SCORES OF REDUCED BRONZE COPIES OF HIS LARGER WORKS THE "ARG ELLO HAS AN EXTENSIVE COLLECTION 'IOTTO DI "ONDONE n )T WAS WITH 'IOTTOS GREAT FRESCO CYCLES THAT RELIGIOUS ART SHIFTED FROM BEING A STRAIGHTFORWARD ACT OF DEVOTION TO THE DRAMATIC PRESENTATION OF INCIDENT (IS UNERRING EYE FOR THE SIGNIlCANT GESTURE HIS ABILITY TO ENCAPSULATE MOMENTS OF EXTREME EMOTION AND HIS TECHNICAL COMMAND OF lGURE MODELLING AND SPATIAL DEPTH BROUGHT HIM EARLY RECOGNITION AS THE GREATEST ARTIST OF HIS GENERATION n AND EVEN AS LATE AS THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY ARTISTS WERE STUDYING HIS FRESCOES FOR THEIR SOLUTIONS TO CERTAIN COMPOSITIONAL PROBLEMS 9ET AS WITH #IMABUE THE PRECISE ATTRIBUTION OF WORK IS PROB LEMATIC )N ALL PROBABILITY HIS lRST MAJOR CYCLE WAS THE ,IFE OF 3T &RANCIS IN THE UPPER CHURCH AT !SSISI THOUGH THE EXTENT TO WHICH HIS ASSISTANTS CAR RIED OUT HIS DESIGNS IS STILL DISPUTED 4HE !RENA CHAPEL IN 0ADUA IS CER TAINLY BY HIM AS ARE LARGE PARTS OF THE "ARDI AND 0ERUZZI CHAPELS IN 3ANTA #ROCE IN &LORENCE /F HIS ATTRIBUTED PANEL PAINTINGS THE 5FlZI -AESTÌ IS THE ONLY ONE UNIVERSALLY ACCEPTED 'OZZOLI "ENOZZO n 4HOUGH A PUPIL OF &RA !NGELICO 'OZZOLI WAS ONE OF THE MORE WORLDLY ARTISTS OF THE lFTEENTH CENTURY WITH A FONDNESS FOR PAGEANTRY THAT IS SEEN TO MOST IMPRESSIVE EFFECT IN THE FRES COES IN &LORENCES 0ALAZZO -EDICI 2ICARDI (IS CELEBRATED CYCLE IN 0ISAS
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THAT HE WAS COMMISSIONED TO PAINT A FRESCO OF THE "ATTLE OF !NGHIARI IN THE MAIN HALL OF THE 0ALAZZO $UCALE WHERE HIS DETESTED RIVAL -ICHELANGE LO WAS ALSO SET TO WORK /NLY A FRAG MENT OF THE FRESCO WAS COMPLETED AND THE INNOVATIVE TECHNIQUE THAT ,EONARDO HAD EMPLOYED RESULTED IN ITS SPEEDY DISINTEGRATION (IS CARTOONS FOR THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITH 3T !NNE ,OUVRE AND .ATIONAL 'ALLERY ,ONDON ALSO DATE FROM THIS PERIOD AS DOES THE MOST FAMOUS OF ALL HIS PAINTINGS THE ,OUVRES -ONA ,ISA THE PORTRAIT OF THE WIFE OF A &LORENTINE MERCHANT )N HE WENT BACK TO -ILAN THENCE TO 2OME AND lNALLY IN TO &RANCE !GAIN MILITARY AND SCIENTIlC WORK OCCUPIED MUCH OF THIS LAST PERIOD n THE ONLY PAINTING TO HAVE SURVIVED IS THE 3T *OHN ALSO IN THE ,OUVRE ,IPPI &ILIPPO Cn )N &ILIPPO ,IPPI WAS PLACED IN THE MONASTERY OF THE #ARMINE IN &LOR ENCE JUST AT THE TIME -ASACCIO WAS BEGINNING WORK ON THE #APPELLA "RANCACCI THERE (IS EARLY WORKS ALL BEAR THE STAMP OF -ASACCIO BUT BY THE S HE WAS BECOMING INTER ESTED IN THE REPRESENTATION OF MOVE MENT AND A MORE LUXURIANT SURFACE DETAIL 4HE FRESCOES IN THE CATHEDRAL AT 0RATO EXECUTED IN THE S SHOW HIS HIGHLY PERSONAL ALMOST HEDONISTIC VISION AS DO HIS PANEL PAINTINGS OF WISTFUL -ADONNAS IN PATRICIAN INTE RIORS OR SOFT LANDSCAPES n MANY OF THEM EXECUTED FOR THE -EDICI (IS LAST WORK THE ,IFE OF THE 6IRGIN FRESCO CYCLE IN 3POLETO WAS PROBABLY LARGELY EXECUTED BY ASSISTANTS &ILIPPINO ,IPPI n COMPLETED HIS FATHERS WORK IN 3PO LETO n AGED ABOUT TWELVE n THEN TRAVELLED TO &LORENCE WHERE HIS lRST MAJOR COMMISSION WAS THE COMPLE TION OF -ASACCIOS FRESCOES IN 3ANTA -ARIA DEL #ARMINE C !T AROUND THIS TIME HE ALSO PAINTED THE 6ISION OF 3T "ERNARD FOR THE "ADÖA WHICH SHOWS AN AFlNITY WITH "OT TICELLI WITH WHOM HE IS KNOWN TO
HAVE WORKED (IS LATER RESEARCHES IN 2OME LED HIM TO DEVELOP A SELF CONSCIOUSLY ANTIQUE STYLE n SEEN AT ITS MOST AMBITIOUS IN 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA ,IPPO -EMMI D "ROTHER IN LAW OF 3IMONE -ARTINI ,IPPO -EMMI WAS HIS ASSISTANT ON THE 5FlZI !NNUNCIATION (IS MAJOR WORK IS THE -AESTÌ IN THE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO IN 3AN 'IMIGNANO AND HE MAY ALSO HAVE BEEN RESPONSIBLE FOR THE DRA MATIC .EW 4ESTAMENT FRESCOES IN THE #OLLEGIATA OF THE SAME TOWN ,ORENZETTI !MBROGIO ACTIVE n 4HOUGH 3IENESE !MBROGIO SPENT PART OF THE S AND S IN &LORENCE WHERE HE WOULD HAVE WITNESSED THE DECORATION OF 3ANTA #ROCE BY 'IOTTO AND HIS PUPILS (ES BEST KNOWN FOR THE !LLEGORY OF 'OOD AND "AD 'OVERNMENT IN THE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO WHICH SHOWS PAINTING BEING USED FOR A SECULAR DIDACTIC PURPOSE FOR THE lRST TIME AND IS ONE OF THE lRST INSTANCES OF A LANDSCAPE BEING USED AS AN INTEGRAL PART OF A COMPOSI TION RATHER THAN AS A MERE BACKDROP 4HE 5FlZI 0RESENTATION OF THE 6IRGIN HIGHLIGHTS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN !MBROGIOS INVENTIVE COMPLEXITY AND THE COMPARATIVE SIMPLICITY OF HIS BROTHERS STYLE SEE BELOW 4HERES A lNE ALTARPIECE BY HIM IN -ASSA -ARÓTTIMA AS WELL ,ORENZETTI 0IETRO ACTIVE n "ROTHER OF !MBROGIO 0IETRO ,OREN ZETTI WAS POSSIBLY A PUPIL OF $UCCIOS IN 3IENA (IS lRST AUTHENTICATED WORK IS THE ALTARPIECE IN !REZZOS 0IEVE DI 3ANTA -ARIA OTHERS INCLUDE FRESCOES IN !SSISIS LOWER CHURCH IN WHICH THE IMPACT OF 'IOTTO IS PAR TICULARLY NOTICEABLE AND THE "IRTH OF THE 6IRGIN IN 3IENAS -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO ONE OF THE BEST DEM ONSTRATIONS OF HIS SKILL AS A NARRATIVE PAINTER )TS PROBABLE THAT BOTH THE ,ORENZETTIS DIED DURING THE "LACK $EATH ,ORENZO -ONACO n ! 3IENESE ARTIST ,ORENZO -ONACO JOINED THE #AMALDOLESE MONASTERY
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CENTURY 3IENESE PAINTING WITH ITS IMMACULATELY CRAFTED GOLD SURFACES AND EMPHASIS ON mUID OUTLINE AND BRIGHT COLORATION )N -ARTINI TRAVELLED TO THE PAPAL COURT OF !VI GNON WHERE HE SPENT THE REST OF HIS LIFE )T WAS AT !VIGNON THAT HE FORMED A FRIENDSHIP WITH 0ETRARCH FOR WHOM HE ILLUSTRATED A MAGNIlCENT COPY OF 6IRGILS POETRY -ASACCIO n "ORN JUST OUTSIDE &LORENCE 4OMASSO DI SE 'IO VANNI DI -ONE #ASSAI n UNIVERSALLY KNOWN AS -ASACCIO n ENTERED THE CITYS PAINTERS GUILD IN (IS lRST LARGE COMMISSION WAS AN ALTAR PIECE FOR THE #ARMELITES OF 0ISA THE CENTRAL PANEL IS NOW IN THE .ATIONAL 'ALLERY IN ,ONDON WHICH SHOWS A MASSIVE GRANDEUR AT ODDS WITH THE )NTERNATIONAL 'OTHIC STYLE THEN BEING PROMULGATED IN &LORENCE BY 'ENTILE DA &ABRIANO (IS MASTERPIECES n THE 4RINITY FRESCO IN 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA AND THE FRESCO CYCLE IN 3ANTA -ARIA DEL #ARMINE n WERE PRODUCED IN THE LAST THREE YEARS OF HIS LIFE THE LATTER BEING PAINTED IN COLLABORATION WITH -ASOLINO 7ITH THE ARCHITECTURE OF "RUNELLESCHI AND THE SCULPTURE OF $ONATELLO THE #ARMINE FRESCOES ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT ACHIEVEMENTS OF THE EARLY 2ENAISSANCE -ASO DI "ANCO ACTIVE S -ASO WAS PERHAPS THE MOST INVENTIVE OF 'IOTTOS ACOLYTES AND HIS REPUTA TION DEPENDS CHIEmY ON THE CYCLE OF THE ,IFE OF 3T 3YLVESTER IN 3ANTA #ROCE &LORENCE -ASOLINO DA 0ANICALE n -ASOLINO WAS EMPLOYED IN 'HIBERTIS WORKSHOP FOR THE PRO DUCTION OF THE lRST SET OF BAPTISTERY DOORS AND THE SEMI 'OTHIC EARLY STYLE OF 'HIBERTI CONDITIONED MUCH OF HIS SUBSEQUENT WORK (IS OTHER GREAT INmUENCE WAS THE YOUNGER -ASACCIO WITH WHOM HE WORKED ON THE "RANCACCI CHAPEL -ICHELANGELO SEE lRST COLOUR INSERT -ICHELOZZO DI "ARTOLOMMEO n "ORN IN &LORENCE -ICHELOZZO WORKED IN 'HIBERTIS
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IN &LORENCE FOR WHICH HE PAINTED THE #ORONATION OF THE 6IRGIN NOW IN THE 5FlZI 4HIS AND HIS OTHER EAR LIER WORKS ARE FAIRLY CONVENTIONAL 3IENESE STYLE ALTARPIECES WITH TWO DIMENSIONAL lGURES ON GOLD BACK GROUNDS (OWEVER HIS LATE !DORATION OF THE -AGI 5FlZI WITH ITS FASTIDIOUS DETAILING AND LANDSCAPE BACKDROP ANTICIPATES THE ARRIVAL OF 'ENTILE DA &ABRIANO AND FULLY mEDGED )NTERNA TIONAL 'OTHIC ,O 3PAGNA n 0OSSIBLY OF 3PANISH ORIGIN n HENCE THE NAME n ,O 3PAGNA SPENT MUCH OF HIS LIFE IN 5MBRIA ,IKE MANY OF HIS CONTEMPO RARIES HE CAME UNDER THE INmUENCE OF 2APHAEL WHO SPENT AT LEAST lVE OF HIS FORMATIVE YEARS IN THE REGION -AITINI ,ORENZO Cn 3IENESE ARCHITECT AND SCULPTOR -AITINI WAS THE ONLY LOCAL ARTIST TO CHALLENGE THE SUPREMACY OF THE 0ISANI )N HE WAS MADE SUPERVI SOR OF /RVIETOS $UOMO FOR WHICH HE DESIGNED THE BIBLICAL PANELS OF THE FACADE n THOUGH ITS NOT CERTAIN HOW MUCH OF THE CARVING WAS ACTUALLY BY -AITINI 6IRTUALLY NOTHING ELSE ABOUT HIM IS KNOWN -ARTINI 3IMONE Cn 4HE MOST IMPORTANT 3IENESE PAINTER 3IMONE -ARTINI WAS A PUPIL OF $UCCIO BUT EQUALLY INmUENCED BY 'IOVANNI 0ISANOS SCULPTURE AND THE CARVINGS OF &RENCH 'OTHIC ARTISTS (E BEGAN HIS CAREER BY PAINTING A FRESCO COUNTERPART OF $UCCIOS -AESTÌ IN THE CITYS 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO 3OON AFTER HE WAS EMPLOYED BY 2OBERT OF !NJOU +ING OF .APLES AND THERE DEVELOPED A SINUOUS GRACEFUL AND COURTLY STYLE )N THE LATE S HE WAS BACK IN 3IENA WHERE HE PROBABLY PRODUCED THE PORTRAIT OF 'UIDORICCIO DA &OGLIANO n THOUGH SOME EXPERTS DOUBT ITS AUTHENTICITY !T SOME POINT HE WENT TO !SSISI WHERE HE PAINTED A CYCLE OF 4HE ,IFE OF 3T -ARTIN IN THE LOWER CHURCH )N HE PRO DUCED A SUMPTUOUS !NNUNCIATION FOR THE 3IENA DUOMO NOW IN THE 5FlZI THIS IS THE QUINTESSENTIAL FOURTEENTH
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STUDIO AND COLLABORATED WITH $ON ATELLO BEFORE TURNING EXCLUSIVELY TO ARCHITECTURE (IS MAIN PATRONS WERE THE -EDICI FOR WHOM HE ALTERED THE VILLA AT #AREGGI AND BUILT THE 0ALAZZO -EDICI WHICH SET A PROTO TYPE FOR PATRICIAN MANSIONS IN THE CITY WITH ITS RUSTICATED LOWER STOREY SMOOTH UPPER FACADE OVERHANGING CORNICE AND INNER COURTYARD (E LATER DESIGNED THE 6ILLA -EDICI AT &IESOLE FOR THE FAMILY AND FOR #OSIMO DE -EDICI HE ADDED THE LIGHT AND AIRY LIBRARY TO THE MONASTERY OF 3AN -ARCO )N THE !LBERTI INmUENCED TRIBUNE FOR THE CHURCH OF 3ANTISSIMA !NNUNZIATA -ICHELOZZO PRODUCED THE lRST CENTRALLY PLANNED CHURCH DESIGN TO BE BUILT IN THE 2ENAISSANCE PERIOD -INO DA &IESOLE n &LORENTINE SCULPTOR PERHAPS A PUPIL OF $ESIDERIO DA 3ETTIGNANO -INO IS KNOWN CHIEmY FOR HIS TOMBS AND PORTRAIT BUSTS THERE ARE EXAMPLES OF THE FORMER IN &IESOLES $UOMO AND THE "ADÖA IN &LORENCE AND OF THE LAT TER IN THE "ARGELLO .ANNI DI "ANCO Cn ! &LORENTINE SCULPTOR WHO BEGAN HIS CAREER AS AN ASSISTANT TO HIS FATHER ON THE &LORENCE $UOMO .ANNI WAS AN EXACT CONTEMPORARY OF $ONATELLO WITH WHOM HE SHARED SOME EARLY COMMISSIONS $ONATELLOS lRST $AVID WAS ORDERED AT THE SAME TIME AS AN )SAIAH FROM .ANNI 4HE lNEST WORKS PRODUCED IN HIS SHORT LIFE ARE HIS NICHE SCULPTURES AT /RSANMICHELE ESPECIALLY THE &OUR 3AINTS AND THE RELIEF ABOVE THE $UOMOS 0ORTA DELLA -ANDORLA .ELLI /TTAVIANO ACTIVE n 4HE ARTIST THAT BROUGHT THE )NTERNA TIONAL 'OTHIC STYLE TO 5MBRIA HIS INTRICATE AND GLITTERING PAINTINGS CAN BE SEEN IN &OLIGNO !SSISI AND 'UB BIO /DERSI OR /DERIGI n 4HE FOUNDER OF THE 5MBRIAN SCHOOL LITTLE IS KNOWN OF /DERSI EXCEPT THAT HE WAS A FRIEND OF 'IOTTO AND WORKED MAINLY IN 'UBBIO ! HANDFUL OF HIS
MINIATURES SURVIVE THOUGH $ANTE CALLED HIM LONOR D!GOBBIO hTHE PRIDE OF 'UBBIOv AND STUCK HIM IN 0URGATORY AS PUNISHMENT FOR AN OBSESSION WITH ART THAT LEFT HIM NO TIME FOR ANYTHING ELSE /RCAGNA !NDREA Cn !RCHITECT SCULPTOR PAINTER /RCAGNA WAS A DOMINANT lGURE IN THE PERIOD FOLLOWING THE DEATH OF 'IOTTO WHOSE EMPHASIS ON SPATIAL DEPTH HE REJECTED n AS SHOWN IN HIS ONLY AUTHENTICATED PANEL PAINTING THE 3TROZZI ALTARPIECE IN 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA $AMAGED FRESCOES CAN BE SEEN IN 3ANTA #ROCE AND 3ANTO 3PIRITO BUT &LORENCES PRINCIPAL WORK BY /RCAGNA IS THE MASSIVE TABERNACLE IN /RSANMICHELE /RCAGNAS BROTHERS .ARDO AND *ACOPO DI #IONE WERE THE MOST INmUENTIAL PAINTERS IN &LORENCE AT THE CLOSE OF THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY THE FRESCOES IN THE 3TROZZI CHAPEL ARE BY .ARDO 0ERUGINO n "ORN 0IETRO DI #RISTOFORO 6ANNUCCI IN #ITTÌ DELLA 0IEVE 0ERUGINO WAS THE GREAT EST 5MBRIAN ARTIST 0OSSIBLY A PUPIL OF 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCA HE LATER TRAINED IN &LORENCE IN THE WORKSHOP OF !NDREA 6ERROCCHIO STUDYING ALONG SIDE ,EONARDO DA 6INCI "Y HIS REPUTATION WAS SUCH THAT HE WAS INVITED TO PAINT IN THE 3ISTINE #HAPEL lLLING THE EAST WALL WITH HIS DISTINC TIVE GENTLY MELANCHOLIC lGURES TODAY ONLY ONE OF 0ERUGINOS ORIGINAL THREE PANELS REMAINS )N HE EXECUTED HIS GREATEST WORK IN 5MBRIA A FRESCO CYCLE COMMISSIONED BY THE BANK ERS GUILD OF 0ERUGIA FOR THEIR #OL LEGIO DI #AMBIO 4HIS WAS PROBABLY THE lRST OCCASION ON WHICH HE WAS ASSISTED BY HIS PUPIL 2APHAEL n AND THE MOMENT HIS OWN CAREER BEGAN TO WANE 6ASARI CLAIMED THAT HE WAS hA MAN OF LITTLE OR NO RELIGION WHO COULD NEVER BRING HIMSELF TO BELIEVE IN THE IMMORTALITY OF THE SOULv AND THE PRODUCTION LINE ALTARPIECES THAT HIS WORKSHOP LATER TURNED OUT WERE OFTEN LACKING IN GENUINE PASSION 9ET HE WAS STILL AMONGST THE MOST INmU
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0ITTI (IS LAST PAINTING IS IN HIS HOME TOWN 0INTURICCHIO n "ORN "ERNARDINO DI "ETTO IN 0ERUGIA 0IN TURICCHIO WAS TAUGHT BY 0ERUGINO WITH WHOM HE COLLABORATED ON THE PAINTING OF THE 3ISTINE #HAPEL (IS RICH PALETTE EARNED HIM HIS NICK NAME AS WELL AS 6ASARIS CONDEMNA TION FOR SUPERlCIALITY -OST OF HIS WORK IS IN 2OME BUT HIS LAST COM MISSION ONE OF HIS MOST AMBITIOUS PROJECTS WAS HIS ,IFE OF 0IUS )) FOR THE ,IBRERIA 0ICCOLOMINI IN 3IENA 0ISANO !NDREA Cn .OTHING IS KNOWN OF !NDREA 0ISA NOS LIFE UNTIL WHEN HE WAS GIVEN THE COMMISSION TO MAKE A NEW SET OF DOORS FOR THE &LOR ENCE BAPTISTERY (E THEN SUCCEEDED 'IOTTO AS MASTER MASON OF THE #AM PANILE THE SET OF RELIEFS HE PRODUCED FOR IT ARE THE ONLY OTHER WORKS DEl NITELY BY HIM NOW IN THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO )N HE BECAME THE SUPERVISOR OF /RVI ETOS $UOMO A JOB LATER HELD BY HIS SCULPTOR SON .INO 0ISANO .ICOLA Cn "ORN SOMEWHERE IN THE SOUTHERN )TALIAN KINGDOM OF THE EMPEROR &REDERICK )) .ICOLA 0ISANO WAS THE lRST GREAT CLASSICIZING SCULPTOR IN PRE 2EN AISSANCE )TALY THE PULPIT IN 0ISAS BAPTISTERY HIS lRST MASTER PIECE SHOWS CLEARLY THE INmUENCE OF 2OMAN lGURES &IVE YEARS LATER HE PRODUCED THE PULPIT FOR THE $UOMO IN 3IENA WITH THE ASSISTANCE OF HIS SON 'IOVANNI Cn AND !RNOLFO DI #AMBIO &ATHER AND SON AGAIN WORKED TOGETHER ON THE &ONTE 'AIA IN 0ERUGIA WHICH WAS .ICOLAS LAST MAJOR PROJECT 'IOVANNIS MORE TURBULENT 'OTHIC INmUENCED STYLE IS SEEN IN TWO OTHER PULPITS FOR 3AN !NDREA IN 0ISTOIA AND FOR THE 0ISA $UOMO 4HE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO IN 3IENA HAS SOME lNE LARGE SCALE lGURES BY 'IOVANNI WHILE ITS COUNTERPART IN 0ISA CONTAINS A LARGE COLLECTION OF WORK BY BOTH THE 0ISANI
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ENTIAL OF THE 2ENAISSANCE PAINTERS THE CATALYST FOR 2APHAEL AND MENTOR FOR A HOST OF 5MBRIAN ARTISTS )N 4US CANY HE IS BEST SEEN IN THE 5FlZI AND IN THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA -ADD ALENA DEI 0AZZI 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCA n 0IERO WAS BORN IN "ORGO 3ANSE POLCRO ON THE BORDER OF 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA )N THE LATE S HE WAS IN &LORENCE WORKING WITH $OMENICO 6ENEZIANO AND HIS LATER WORK SHOWS THE INmUENCE OF SUCH &LORENTINE CON TEMPORARIES AS #ASTAGNO AND 5CCELLO AS WELL AS THE IMPACT OF -ASACCIOS FRESCOES 4HE EXACT CHRONOLOGY OF HIS CAREER IS CONTENTIOUS BUT MUCH OF HIS WORKING LIFE WAS SPENT IN HIS NATIVE TOWN FOR WHICH HE PRODUCED THE -ADONNA DELLA -ISERICORDIA AND THE 2ESURRECTION BOTH NOW IN THE LOCAL -USEO #IVICO /THER PATRONS INCLUDED 3IGISMONDO -ALATESTA OF 2IMINI AND &EDERICO DA -ONTEFELTRO OF 5RBINO OF WHOM THERES A PORTRAIT BY 0IERO IN THE 5FlZI )N THE S HE WAS IN !REZZO WORKING ON THE FRESCO CYCLE IN THE CHURCH OF 3AN &RANCESCO THE ONLY FRESCOES IN 4US CANY THAT CAN BEAR COMPARISON WITH THE -ASACCIO CYCLE IN &LORENCE (E SEEMS TO HAVE STOPPED PAINTING COM PLETELY IN THE EARLY S PERHAPS TO CONCENTRATE ON HIS VASTLY INmUENTIAL TREATISES ON PERSPECTIVE AND GEOMETRY BUT MORE LIKELY BECAUSE OF FAILING EYESIGHT 0IERO DI #OSIMO Cn /NE OF THE MORE ENIGMATIC lGURES OF THE (IGH 2ENAISSANCE 0IERO DI #OSI MO SHARED ,EONARDOS SCHOLARLY INTER EST IN THE NATURAL WORLD BUT TURNED HIS KNOWLEDGE TO THE PRODUCTION OF ALLUSIVE MYTHOLOGICAL PAINTINGS 4HERE ARE PICTURES BY HIM IN THE 5FlZI 0AL AZZO 0ITTI -USEO DEGLI )NNOCENTI AND -USEO (ORNE 0IETRO DA #ORTONA n 0AINTER ARCHITECT BORN 0IETRO "ERRET TINI WHO WITH "ERNINI WAS THE GUID ING FORCE OF 2OMAN "AROQUE 4HE STYLE WAS INTRODUCED TO &LORENCE BY 0IETROS CEILING FRESCOES IN THE 0ALAZZO
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0OLLAIUOLO !NTONIO DEL Cn AND 0IERO DEL Cn 4HOUGH THEIR &LORENCE WORKSHOP TURNED OUT ENGRAVINGS JEWELLERY AND EMBROIDERIES THE 0OLLAIUOLO BROTH ERS WERE KNOWN MAINLY FOR THEIR ADVANCES IN OIL PAINTING TECHNIQUE AND FOR THEIR ANATOMICAL RESEARCHES WHICH BORE FRUIT IN PAINTINGS AND SMALL SCALE BRONZE SCULPTURES 4HE INmUENCES OF $ONATELLO AND #ASTAGNO 0IEROS TEACHER ARE EVIDENT IN THEIR DRAMATIC OFTEN VIOLENT WORK WHICH IS ESPECIALLY WELL REPRESENTED IN THE "ARGELLO 4HE 5FlZIS COLLECTION OF PAINTINGS SUGGESTS THAT !NTONIO WAS BY FAR THE MORE SKILLED ARTIST 0ONTORMO *ACOPO n 3EE P 1UERCIA *ACOPO DELLA n ! 3IENESE CONTEMPORARY OF $ONATELLO AND 'HIBERTI DELLA 1UER CIA ENTERED THE COMPETITION FOR THE &LORENCE BAPTISTERY DOORS WHICH 'HIBERTI WON IN 4HE lRST KNOWN WORK BY HIM IS THE TOMB OF )LARIA DEL #ARRETTO IN ,UCCAS $UOMO (IS NEXT MAJOR COMMISSION WAS A FOUNTAIN FOR 3IENAS MAIN SQUARE A PIECE NOW REASSEMBLED IN THE LOGGIA OF THE 0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO BEFORE THAT WAS lNISHED HE HAD BEGUN WORK ON A SET OF RELIEFS FOR 3IENAS BAPTISTERY A PROJECT TO WHICH 'HI BERTI AND $ONATELLO ALSO CONTRIBUTED &ROM HE EXPENDED MUCH OF HIS ENERGY ON RELIEFS FOR 3AN 0ETRONIO IN "OLOGNA n SO MUCH SO THAT THE 3IEN ESE AUTHORITIES ORDERED HIM TO RETURN SOME OF THE MONEY HE HAD BEEN PAID FOR THE BAPTISTERY JOB 2APHAEL n 7ITH ,EON ARDO AND -ICHELANGELO 2APHAEL 3ANZIO FORMS THE TRIUMVIRATE WHOSE WORKS DElNE THE ESSENCE OF THE (IGH 2ENAISSANCE "ORN IN 5RBINO HE JOINED 0ERUGINOS WORKSHOP SOME TIME AROUND AND WITHIN lVE YEARS WAS RECEIVING COMMISSIONS INDEPENDENTLY OF HIS MASTER &ROM TO HE WAS IN &LORENCE WHERE HE ABSORBED THE COMPOSITIONAL AND TONAL INNOVATIONS OF ,EONARDO
MANY OF THE PICTURES HE PRODUCED AT THAT TIME ARE NOW IN THE 0ALAZZO 0ITTI &ROM &LORENCE HE WENT TO 2OME WHERE 0OPE *ULIUS )) SET HIM TO WORK ON THE PAPAL APARTMENTS THE 3TANZE -ICHELANGELOS 3ISTINE CEILING WAS LARGELY INSTRUMENTAL IN MODULAT ING 2APHAELS STYLE FROM ITS EARLIER LYRICAL GRACE INTO SOMETHING MORE MONUMENTAL BUT ALL THE WORKS FROM THIS MORE RUGGED LATER PERIOD ARE IN 2OME 2OBBIA ,UCA DELLA n ,UCA BEGAN AS A SCULPTOR IN CONVEN TIONAL MATERIALS HIS EARLIEST ACHIEVE MENT BEING THE MARBLE CANTORIA CHOIR GALLERY NOW IN THE -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO IN &LORENCE TYPIFYING THE CHEERFUL TONE OF MOST OF HIS WORK 4HIRTY YEARS LATER HE MADE THE SACRISTY DOORS FOR THIS CITYS $UOMO BUT BY THEN HE HAD DEVISED A TECHNIQUE FOR APPLYING DURABLE POT TERS GLAZE TO CLAY SCULPTURE AND MOST OF HIS ENERGIES WERE GIVEN TO THE ART OF GLAZED TERRACOTTA (IS DISTINCTIVE BLUE WHITE AND YELLOW COMPOSITIONS ARE SEEN AT THEIR BEST IN THE 0AZZI CHAPEL IN 3ANTA #ROCE THE "ARGELLO AND AT )MPRUNETA JUST OUTSIDE &LOR ENCE 4HE BEST WORK OF HIS NEPHEW !NDREA DELLA 2OBBIA n WHO CONTINUED THE LUCRATIVE TER RACOTTA BUSINESS IS AT THE 3PEDALE DEGLI )NNOCENTI IN &LORENCE AND AT THE MONASTERY OF ,A 6ERNA 'IOVANNI DELLA 2OBBIA n SON OF !NDREA IS BEST KNOWN FOR THE FRIEZE OF THE #EPPO IN 0ISTOIA 2OSSELLINO "ERNARDO n !N ARCHITECT SCULPTOR 2OSSELLINO WORKED WITH !LBERTI AND CARRIED OUT HIS PLANS FOR THE 0ALAZZO 2UCELLAI IN &LORENCE (IS MAJOR ARCHITEC TURAL COMMISSION WAS 0IUS ))S NEW TOWN OF 0IENZA !S A SCULPTOR HES BEST KNOWN FOR THE MONUMENT TO ,EONARDO "RUNI IN 3ANTA #ROCE n A DERIVATIVE OF $ONATELLOS TOMB OF *OHN 88))) IN THE BAPTISTERY (IS BROTHER AND PUPIL !NTONIO n PRODUCED THE TOMB OF THE #ARDINAL OF 0ORTUGAL IN &LORENCES 3AN -INIATO
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3IGNORELLI ,UCA n 4HOUGH A PUPIL OF 0IERO DELLA &RANC ESCA 3IGNORELLI IS MORE INDEBTED TO THE MUSCULAR DRAMA OF THE 0OLLAIUOLO BROTHERS AND THE GESTURAL VOCABULARY DEVELOPED BY $ONATELLO )N THE EARLY S HE WAS PROBABLY WORKING ON THE 3ISTINE #HAPEL WITH 0ERUGINO AND "OTTICELLI BUT HIS MOST IMPORTANT COMMISSION CAME IN WHEN HE WAS HIRED TO COMPLETE THE CYCLE BEGUN BY &RA !NGELICO IN /RVIETOS $UOMO 4HE EMPHASIS ON THE NUDE lGURE IN HIS ,AST *UDGEMENT WAS TO GREATLY AFFECT -ICHELANGELO 3HORTLY AFTER lNISHING THIS CYCLE HE WENT TO 2OME BUT THE COMPETITION FROM 2APHAEL AND -ICHELANGELO DROVE HIM BACK TO HIS NATIVE #ORTONA WHERE HE SET UP A HIGHLY PROlCIENT WORKSHOP 7ORKS ARE TO BE SEEN IN #ORTONA !REZZO -ONTE /LIVETO 0ERUGIA 3ANSEPOLCRO AND IN THE 5Fl ZI AND -USEO (ORNE IN &LORENCE 3ODOMA n "ORN 'IO VANNI !NTONIO "AZZI 3ODOMA ARRIVED IN 3IENA IN HAVING BECOME FAMILIAR WITH THE WORK OF ,EONARDO DA 6INCI DURING A FOUR YEAR SPELL IN -ILAN (IS MAJOR WORK WAS BEGUN FOUR YEARS LATER A CYCLE OF FRESCOES AT -ONTE /LIVETO (E LATER WON CON TRACTS TO WORK IN 2OME THOUGH THE WORK HE COMMENCED IN THE 6ATICAN WAS HANDED OVER TO 2APHAEL 3PINELLO !RETINO ACTIVE Sn 0ROBABLY BORN IN !REZZO 3PINELLO STUDIED IN &LORENCE POSSIBLY UNDER !GNOLO 'ADDI (E HARKS BACK TO THE MONUMENTAL ASPECTS OF 'IOT TOS STYLE n THUS PARADOXICALLY PAVING THE WAY FOR THE MOST RADICAL PAINTER OF THE NEXT GENERATION -ASACCIO (IS MAIN WORKS ARE IN &LORENCES CHURCH OF 3AN -INIATO AL -ONTE AND 3ANTA #ATERINA D!NTELLA JUST TO THE SOUTH OF THE CITY 5CCELLO 0AOLO n !FTER TRAINING IN 'HIBERTIS WORKSHOP 5CCELLO WENT TO 6ENICE WHERE HE WORKED ON MOSAICS FOR THE "ASILICA DI 3AN -ARCO (E RETURNED TO &LORENCE IN AND lVE YEARS LATER WAS CON
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AL -ONTE AND A NUMBER OF EXCELLENT PORTRAIT BUSTS "ARGELLO 2OSSO &IORENTINO n ,IKE 0ONTORMO 2OSSO &IORENTINO WAS A PUPIL OF !NDREA DEL 3ARTO BUT WENT ON TO DEVELOP A FAR MORE AGGRESSIVE ACIDIC STYLE THAN HIS COL LEAGUE AND FRIEND (IS EARLY $EPOSI TION IN 6OLTERRA AND THE ROUGH LY CONTEMPORANEOUS -OSES $EFENDING THE $AUGHTERS OF *ETHRO 5FlZI ARE TYPICAL OF HIS EXTREME FORESHORTEN ING AND TENSE DEPLOYMENT OF lGURES !FTER A PERIOD IN 2OME AND 6ENICE HE EVENTUALLY WENT TO &RANCE WHERE WITH 0RIMATICCIO HE DEVELOPED THE DISTINCTIVE -ANNERIST ART OF THE &ON TAINEBLEAU SCHOOL 3ANGALLO !NTONIO DA THE %LDER n ! &LORENCE BORN ARCHI TECT !NTONIO DA 3ANGALLO THE %LDER PRODUCED JUST ONE MAJOR BUILDING BUT ONE OF THE MOST INmUENTIAL OF HIS PERIOD n 3AN "IAGIO IN -ON TEPULCIANO BASED ON "RAMANTES PLAN FOR 3T 0ETERS IN 2OME (IS NEPHEW !NTONIO THE 9OUNGER n WAS ALSO BORN IN &LORENCE BUT DID MOST OF HIS WORK IN 2OME WHERE HE BEGAN HIS CAREER AS ASSISTANT lRST TO "RAMANTE THEN TO 0ERUZZI (E WENT ON TO DESIGN THE 0ALAZZO &ARNESE THE MOST SPECTACULAR 2OMAN PALACE OF ITS TIME )N 4USCANY HIS MOST IMPORTANT BUILDING IS THE &ORTEZZA DA "ASSO IN &LORENCE 'IULIANO DA 3ANGALLO n SCULPTOR ARCHITECT AND MILITARY ENGINEER WAS THE BROTHER OF !NTONIO THE %LDER ! FOLLOWER OF "RUNELLESCHI HE PRODUCED A NUMBER OF BUILDINGS IN AND AROUND &LOR ENCE n THE 6ILLA -EDICI AT 0OGGIO A #AIANO 3ANTA -ARIA DELLE #ARCERI IN 0RATO THE lRST 2ENAISSANCE CHURCH TO HAVE A 'REEK CROSS PLAN AND THE 0ALAZZO 3TROZZI THE MOST AMBITIOUS PALACE OF THE CENTURY 3ASSETTA Cn 3ASSETTA WAS BASICALLY A CONVENTIONAL 3IENESE PAINTER THOUGH HIS WORK DOES SHOW THE INmUENCE OF )NTERNATIONAL 'OTHIC 7ORKS BY HIM ARE ON SHOW IN 3IENA !SSISI AND THE 5FlZI
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TRACTED TO PAINT THE COMMEMORATIVE PORTRAIT OF 3IR *OHN (AWKWOOD IN THE $UOMO 4HIS TROMPE LOEIL PAINT ING IS THE lRST EVIDENCE OF HIS INTEREST IN THE PROBLEMS OF PERSPECTIVE AND FORESHORTENING A SUBJECT THAT WAS LATER TO OBSESS HIM !FTER AN INTERLUDE IN 0ADUA HE PAINTED THE FRESCOES FOR THE CLOISTER OF 3ANTA -ARIA .OVELLA C IN WHICH HIS SYSTEMATIC BUT NON NATURALISTIC USE OF PERSPECTIVE IS SEEN AT ITS MOST EXTREME )N THE FOL LOWING DECADE HE PAINTED THE THREE SCENE SEQUENCE "ATTLE OF 3AN 2OMANO ,OUVRE ,ONDON .ATIONAL 'ALLERY AND 5FlZI FOR THE -EDICI n HIS MOST AMBITIOUS NON FRESCO PAINTINGS AND SIMILARLY NOTABLE FOR THEIR STRANGE USE OF FORESHORTENING 6ASARI 'IORGIO n "ORN IN !REZZO 6ASARI TRAINED WITH ,UCA 3IGNORELLI AND !NDREA DEL 3ARTO (E BECAME THE LEADING ARTISTIC IMPRESA RIO OF HIS DAY WORKING FOR THE PAPACY IN 2OME AND FOR THE -EDICI IN &LOR ENCE WHERE HE SUPERVISED AND PARTLY EXECUTED THE REDECORATION OF THE 0ALAZZO 6ECCHIO (IS OWN HOUSE IN !REZZO IS PERHAPS THE MOST IMPRES SIVE DISPLAY OF HIS LIMITED PICTORIAL TALENTS (E ALSO DESIGNED THE 5FlZI GALLERY AND OVERSAW A NUMBER OF OTHER ARCHITECTURAL PROJECTS INCLUD ING THE COMPLETION OF THE MASSIVE -ADONNA DELL5MILTÌ IN 0ISTOIA (E IS NOW CHIEmY FAMOUS FOR HIS
4USCAN BIASED ,IVES OF THE -OST %XCEL LENT 0AINTERS 3CULPTORS AND !RCHITECTS WHICH CHARTED THE REBIRTH OF THE lNE ARTS WITH 'IOTTO AND THE PROCESS OF RElNEMENT THAT CULMINATED WITH -ICHELANGELO 6ENEZIANO $OMENICO n $ESPITE THE NAME $OMENICO 6EN EZIANO WAS PROBABLY BORN IN &LOR ENCE THOUGH HIS PREOCCUPATION WITH THE WAY IN WHICH COLOUR ALTERS IN DIFFERENT LIGHT CONDITIONS IS MORE OF A 6ENETIAN CONCERN &ROM TO HE WAS WORKING ON A FRESCO CYCLE IN &LORENCE WITH 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCA A WORK THAT HAS NOW PER ISHED /NLY A DOZEN SURVIVING WORKS CAN BE ATTRIBUTED TO HIM WITH ANY DEGREE OF CERTAINTY AND ONLY TWO SIGNED PIECES BY HIM ARE LEFT n ONE OF THEM IS THE CENTRAL PANEL OF THE SO CALLED 3T ,UCY !LTAR IN THE 5FlZI 6ERROCCHIO !NDREA DEL Cn ! &LORENTINE PAINTER SCULP TOR AND GOLDSMITH 6ERROCCHIO WAS POSSIBLY A PUPIL OF $ONATELLO AND CERTAINLY HIS SUCCESSOR AS THE CITYS LEADING SCULPTOR ! HIGHLY ACCOM PLISHED IF SOMETIMES OVER FACILE CRAFTSMAN HE RAN ONE OF &LORENCES BUSIEST WORKSHOPS WHOSE EMPLOY EES INCLUDED THE YOUNG ,EONARDO DA 6INCI )N &LORENCE HIS WORK CAN BE SEEN IN THE 5FlZI "ARGELLO 3AN ,ORENZO 3ANTO 3PIRITO /RSANMICHELE AND -USEO DELL/PERA DEL $UOMO
"OOKS
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OST OF THE BOOKS RECOMMENDED BELOW ARE CURRENTLY IN PRINT AND THOSE THAT ARENT SHOULDNT BE TOO DIFlCULT TO TRACK DOWN THROUGH SECOND HAND BOOKSTORES OR WEBSITES SUCH AS WWWALIBRISCOM AND WWWABEBOOKSCOM 7HEREVER A BOOK IS IN PRINT THE 5+ PUB LISHER IS GIVEN lRST IN EACH LISTING FOLLOWED BY THE PUBLISHER IN THE 53 UNLESS THE TITLE IS AVAILABLE IN ONE COUNTRY ONLY IN WHICH CASE WE HAVE SPECIlED THE COUNTRY CONCERNED )F THE SAME PUBLISHER PRODUCES THE BOOK IN THE 5+ AND 53 THE PUBLISHER IS SIMPLY NAMED ONCE 7EVE ADDED TO SIGNIFY TITLES THAT ARE ESPECIALLY RECOMMENDED
4RAVEL BOOKS AND JOURNALS
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THESE ARE ,AWRENCES PROVOCATIVE MUSINGS ON %TRUSCAN ART AND CIVILIZA TION n WHICH HE CONSIDERED MORE OR LESS IDEAL hRIPE WITH THE PHALLIC KNOWLEDGEv ETC 0ENGUIN 5+ ALSO PUBLISHES A VOLUME ENTITLED 3KETCHES OF %TRUSCAN 0LACES AND OTHER )TALIAN %SSAYS WHICH CONTAINS MATERIAL OMIT TED FROM THE lRST EDITION OF %TRUSCAN 0LACES PLUS AN ESSAY ON &LORENCE -ARY -C#ARTHY 4HE 3TONES OF &LOR ENCE 0ENGUIN OP (ARVEST 7RITTEN IN THE MID S 3TONES IS A MIX OF HIGH CLASS REPORTING ON THE CONTEM PORARY CITY AND ANECDOTAL DETAIL ON ITS HISTORY n ONE OF THE FEW ACCOUNTS THAT DOESNT READ AS IF ITS BEEN WRIT TEN IN A LIBRARY (6 -ORTON ! 4RAVELLER IN )TALY -ETHUEN $A #APO -ORTONS LEI SURELY AND AMIABLE BOOKS WERE WRIT TEN IN THE S LONG BEFORE MODERN TOURISM GOT INTO ITS STRIDE AND THEIR NOSTALGIC CHARM HAS A LOT TO DO WITH THEIR ENDURING POPULARITY "UT THIS TITLE n RECENTLY REISSUED n IS ALSO PACKED WITH LEARNED DETAILS AND MAR VELLOUSLY EVOCATIVE DESCRIPTIONS )RIS /RIGO 7AR IN THE 6AL D/RCIA !LLISON AND "USBY 'ODINE ! STIR RING ACCOUNT OF /RIGOS ACTIVITIES IN THE LAST WAR HIDING PARTISANS AND !LLIED TROOPS ON HER ESTATE NEAR -ONTEPULCIANO )N HER BIOGRAPHY )MAGES AND 3HADOWS *OHN -URRAY
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#HARLES $ICKENS 0ICTURES FROM )TALY 0ENGUIN 4HE CLASSIC MID NINE TEENTH CENTURY 'RAND 4OUR RECORD ING THE SIGHTS OF %MILIA 4USCANY 2OME AND .APLES IN MEASURED AND INCISIVE PROSE 7OLFGANG 'OETHE )TALIAN *OURNEY 0ENGUIN 2EVEALING FOR WHAT IT SAYS ABOUT THE TASTES OF THE TIME n 2OMAN ANTIQUITIES TAKING PRECEDENCE OVER THE 2ENAISSANCE %DWARD (UTTON &LORENCE #OUNTRY 7ALKS !BOUT &LORENCE 4HE 6ALLEY OF THE !RNO ! 7AYFARER IN 5NKNOWN 4USCANY 3IENA AND 3OUTHERN 4USCANY #ITIES OF 5MBRIA !SSISI AND 5MBRIA 2EVISITED 4HE #OSMATI ALL OUT OF PRINT ! 4US CAN RESIDENT FROM THE S TO S (UTTON WAS NOTHING IF NOT PROLIlC 3OME OF HIS PROSE ADDS A NEW SHADE TO PURPLE BUT HIS BOOKS BETWEEN THEM COVER ALMOST EVERY INCH OF 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA AND ARE PACKED WITH ASSIDUOUS BACKGROUND ON THE ART AND HISTORY (ENRY *AMES )TALIAN (OURS 0ENGUIN 5RBANE TRAVEL PIECES FROM THE YOUNG *AMES PERCEPTIVE ABOUT PARTICULAR MONUMENTS AND WORKS OF ART SUPERB ON THE DIFFERENT ATMOSPHERES OF THE GREAT )TALIAN CITIES $( ,AWRENCE %TRUSCAN 0LACES INCLUDED IN $( ,AWRENCE AND )TALY 0ENGUIN 0UBLISHED POSTHUMOUSLY
OP 'ODINE /RIGO EXPANDS ON HER 4USCAN RESIDENCE WITH SOME INTRIGU ING INSIGHTS INTO PEASANT LIFE IN THE S 4OBIAS 3MOLLETT 4RAVELS THROUGH &RANCE AND )TALY /XFORD 5NIVERSITY 0RESS OP /NE OF THE FUNNIEST TRAVEL JOURNALS EVER WRITTEN n THE APOTHE OSIS OF ,ITTLE %NGLANDISM CALLING ON
AN UNMATCHED VOCABULARY OF DISGUST AT ALL THINGS FOREIGN -ATTHEW 3PENDER 7ITHIN 4USCANY 2EmECTIONS ON A 4IME AND 0LACE 0EN GUIN OP IN 5+ 2ECOLLECTIONS OF TWENTY YEARS OF LIVING IN 4USCANY n REFRESHINGLY FREE OF THE CONDESCEN SION AND SMUGNESS THAT BESETS MOST h"RITS ABROADv MEMOIRS
(ISTORY AND SOCIETY 'ENERAL (ARRY (EARDER )TALY ! 3HORT (ISTORY #AMBRIDGE 5NIVERSITY 0RESS 4HE BEST ONE VOLUME SURVEY OF THE COUN TRY FROM PREHISTORY TO THE PRESENT 'IULIANO 0ROCACCI (ISTORY OF THE )TALIAN 0EOPLE 0ENGUIN (ARPER
2OW OP ! COMPREHENSIVE IF INDIGESTIBLY DENSE HISTORY OF THE PENINSULA CHARTING THE DEVELOPMENT OF )TALY AS A NATION STATE AND GIVING A CONTEXT FOR THE STORY OF 4USCANY AND 5MBRIA
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!DRIAN (OUSE &RANCIS OF !SSISI 0IMLICO 0AULIST 0RESS ! MUCH NEED ED MODERN BIOGRAPHY THAT BRINGS TO LIFE A SAINT WHO IS RESPECTED BY #HRIS TIANS AND NON BELIEVERS ALIKE (OUSE DOESNT DODGE DIFlCULT ISSUES SUCH AS &RANCISS RELATIONSHIP WITH 3T #LARE OR THE POSSIBLE CAUSES OF HIS STIGMATA AND PROVIDES AN ENTERTAINING ACCOUNT OF HIS EARLY APPARENTLY DISSOLUTE LIFE )RIS /RIGO 4HE -ERCHANT OF 0RATO 0ENGUIN 'ODINE "ASED ON THE MASSIVE DOCUMENTATION OF &RANCESCO DI -ARCO $ATINIS BUSINESS EMPIRE THIS IS A WONDERFULLY LIVELY RE CREATION OF DOMESTIC LIFE IN FOUR TEENTH CENTURY 4USCANY
&RANCES 3TONOR 3AUNDERS (AWKWOOD $IABOLICAL %NGLISH MAN &ABER &ASCINATING STUDY OF THE RAPACIOUS MERCENARY CAPTAIN WHOSE PRIVATE ARMY TERRORIZED VAST TRACTS OF )TALY IN THE LATE FOURTEENTH CENTURY IN THE WAKE OF THE MISERIES OF THE "LACK $EATH -ORE THAN AN EXCEL LENT BIOGRAPHY THIS BOOK IS A VIVID RECONSTRUCTION OF A HELLISH PERIOD OF )TALIAN HISTORY $ANIEL 7ALEY 4HE )TALIAN #ITY 2EPUBLICS ,ONGMAN OP %XCELLENT GENERAL ACCOUNT WHICH GIVES MUCH PROMINENCE TO &LORENCE AND ITS 4US CAN RIVALS
&LORENCE AND THE 2ENAISSANCE
(AROLD !CTON 4HE ,AST -EDICI 4HAMES (UDSON OP %LEGANT BIOGRAPHY OF THE LEAST ELEGANT MEM BER OF THE DYNASTY THE PERPETUALLY INEBRIATED 'IAN 'ASTONE
'ENE ! "RUCKER 2ENAISSANCE &LORENCE 5NIVERSITY OF #ALIFORNIA 0RESS #ONCENTRATING ON THE YEARS n THIS BRILLIANT STUDY OF &LORENCE AT ITS CULTURAL ZENITH USES
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ILLUMINATING ANECDOTES AND FASCINAT ING ILLUSTRATIONS n UNLIKE MOST BOOKS ON THE CITY ITS AS INTERESTING ON THE POLITICAL HISTORY AS ON THE ARTISTIC ACHIEVEMENTS AND DOESNT GRIND TO A STANDSTILL WITH THE FALL OF THE -EDICI -ARY (OLLINGSWORTH 0ATRONAGE IN 2ENAISSANCE )TALY *OHNS (OPKINS 5NIVERSITY 0RESS OP 4HE lRST COM PREHENSIVE %NGLISH LANGUAGE STUDY OF THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN ARTIST AND PATRON IN QUATTROCENTO )TALYS CITY STATES ! SALUTARY CORRECTIVE TO THE MYTHOL OGY OF SELF INSPIRED 2ENAISSANCE GENIUS 'EORGE (OLMES &LORENCE 2OME AND THE /RIGINS OF THE 2ENAISSANCE /XFORD 5NIVERSITY 0RESS -AGNIl CENT n AND COSTLY n PORTRAIT OF THE WORLD OF $ANTE AND 'IOTTO WITH ESPECIALLY COMPELLING SECTIONS ON THE IMPACT OF 3T &RANCIS AND THE ROLE OF THE PAPACY IN THE POLITICAL AND CUL TURAL LIFE OF CENTRAL )TALY ,UARO -ARTINES !PRIL "LOOD &LOR ENCE AND THE 0LOT !GAINST THE -EDICI 0IMLICO /XFORD 5NIVERSITY 0RESS ! THOROUGH AND ENGROSSING ACCOUNT OF THE MOST NOTORIOUS CONSPIRACY IN &LORENTINE HISTORY 0AUL 3TRATHERN 4HE -EDICI 'ODFA THERS OF THE 2ENAISSANCE 0IMLICO 5+ ,IKE (IBBERTS BOOK THIS IS A PACY AND WELL RESEARCHED NARRATIVE OF &LOR ENCES MOST FAMOUS FAMILY BUT GIVES A LITTLE MORE SPACE TO THE VARIOUS LUMI NARIES -ICHELANGELO 'ALILEO ETC WHO WERE DRAWN INTO THEIR ORBIT
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MASSES OF ARCHIVAL MATERIAL TO lLL IN THE SOCIAL ECONOMIC AND POLITICAL BACKGROUND TO ITS ARTISTIC ACHIEVE MENTS *ACOB "URCKHARDT 4HE #IVILI ZATION OF THE 2ENAISSANCE IN )TALY 0ENGUIN ! PIONEERING NINETEENTH CENTURY CLASSIC OF 2ENAISSANCE SCHOL ARSHIP n THE BOOK THAT DID MORE THAN ANY OTHER TO FORM OUR IMAGE OF THE PERIOD %RIC #OCHRANE &LORENCE IN THE &OR GOTTEN #ENTURIES n 5NIVER SITY OF #HICAGO 0RESS OP -ASSIVELY ERUDITE ACCOUNT OF THE TWILIGHT CEN TURIES OF &LORENCE INTIMIDATING IN ITS DETAIL ITS UNRIVALLED IN ITS COVERAGE OF THE YEARS WHEN THE CITYS SCIENTISTS WERE MORE FAMOUS THAN ITS PAINTERS *2 (ALE &LORENCE AND THE -EDICI 7EIDENFELD .ICOLSON 5+ 3CHOLARLY YET LIVELY THIS COVERS THE FULL SPAN OF THE -EDICI STORY FROM THE FOUNDATION OF THE FAMILY FORTUNE TO THE CALAMITOUS EIGHTEENTH CENTURY 6IVID IN ITS RE CREATION OF THE VARIOUS PERSONALITIES INVOLVED IT ALSO PRESENTS A FASCINATING PICTURE OF THE EVOLUTION OF THE MECHANICS OF POWER IN THE &LORENTINE STATE #HRISTOPHER (IBBERT 4HE (OUSE OF -EDICI ITS 2ISE AND &ALL 0ERENNIAL -ORE ANECDOTAL THAN (ALES BOOK THIS IS A GRIPPING READ CHOCK FULL OF HEROIC SUCCESSES AND SQUALID FAILURES #HRISTOPHER (IBBERT &LORENCE 4HE "IOGRAPHY OF A #ITY 0ENGUIN .ORTON OP 9ET ANOTHER EXCELLENT (IBBERT PRODUCTION PACKED WITH
3IENA !SSISI AND 0ERUGIA %DMUND ' 'ARDNER 4HE 3TORY OF 3IENA -ARGARET 3YMONDS , $UFF 'ORDON 4HE 3TORY OF 0ERUGIA AND 4HE 3TORY OF !SSISI 0UBLISHED IN $ENTS h-EDIEVAL 4OWNSv SERIES IN THE S THESE POCKET ENCYCLOPEDIAS CONTAIN LOTS OF ANECDOTE AND HISTORICAL DETAIL YOU WONT lND ELSEWHERE
*UDITH (OOK 3IENA ! #ITY AND ITS (ISTORY (AMISH (AMILTON OP n BUT AVAILABLE IN 3IENA 4HIS SUPERB STUDY OF THE CITY AND ITS ART CONCENTRATES ON THE MEDIEVAL HEYDAY BUT ALSO TAKES THE STORY THROUGH TO THE PRESENT AND INCLUDES A GOOD ANALYTICAL SECTION ON THE 0ALIO
#ONTEMPORARY )TALY
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0AUL 'INSBORG )TALY AND ITS $ISCONTENTS 0ENGUIN 0ALGRAVE )F YOU WANT TO UNDERSTAND CONTEM PORARY )TALYS BAFmING MIXTURE OF DYNAMISM AND IDEOLOGICAL STERILITY THIS BOOK n LUCIDLY ARGUED AND FOR MIDABLY WELL INFORMED n IS AN ESSEN TIAL READ 4HERE IS NO BETTER BOOK ON THE SUBJECT 4OBIAS *ONES 4HE $ARK (EART OF )TALY &ABER .ORTH 0OINT 0RESS 7RIT TEN DURING A THREE YEAR PERIOD IN 0ARMA AND COMPRISING ESSAYS DEAL ING WITH ASPECTS OF MODERN )TALIAN SOCIETY FROM THE LEGAL AND POLITICAL SYSTEMS TO THE MEDIA AND FOOTBALL "EWILDERED AND FASCINATED AT EVERY TURN *ONES REVEALS A CULTURE IN WHICH EVASIVENESS AND ETHICAL MALLEABILITY ARE AS SIGNIlCANT AS THE MUCH CEL EBRATED VIRTUES OF VIVACITY CHARM AND SOPHISTICATION n A CULTURE EXEMPLIlED
ABOVE ALL BY THE CHARACTER OF 3ILVIO "ERLUSCONI IN EFFECT THE OWNER OF THE )TALIAN STATE !N AFFECTIONATE BUT CLEAR EYED CORRECTIVE TO THE SENTIMENTAL IZING CLAPTRAP PERPETRATED BY SO MANY %NGLISH AND !MERICAN EXPATS #HARLES 2ICHARDS 4HE .EW )TALIANS 0ENGUIN -ICHAEL *OSEPH OP !N AFFECTIONATE AND VERY WELL INFORMED SURVEY OF MODERN )TALY WITH PLENTY OF VIVID ANECDOTES THAT ILLUSTRATE THE TENSIONS WITHIN A CULTURE THAT IS AT ONCE DEEPLY TRADITIONAL YET AT THE SAME TIME ENTHRALLED BY THE TRAPPINGS OF MODERNITY &REDERIC 3POTTS 4HEODOR 7IESER )TALY ! $IFlCULT $EMOCRACY ! 3URVEY OF )TALIAN 0OLITICS #AMBRIDGE 5NIVERSITY 0RESS !UTHORITATIVE AND HIGHLY READABLE ACCOUNT OF RELIGION SOCIAL HISTORY AND ECONOMICS IN POST WAR )TALY
!RT AND ARCHITECTURE (AROLD !CTON 4HE 6ILLAS OF 4USCANY 4HAMES (UDSON OP (UGE AND LAVISHLY ILLUSTRATED TOME WITH GOOD ARCHITECTURAL AND HISTORICAL BACK GROUND ON MOST OF THE MAJOR 4USCAN VILLAS n MANY OF THEM THE HOMES OF 3IR (AROLD AND HIS CHUMS &REDERICK !NTAL &LORENTINE 0AINTING AND ITS 3OCIAL "ACKGROUND (ARVARD 5NIVERSITY 0RESS OP 6ERY AUTHORI TATIVE n IF LESS THAN ENTHRALLINGLY WRITTEN n STUDY OF PATRONAGE IN EARLY 2ENAISSANCE &LORENCE #HARLES !VERY &LORENTINE 2ENAISSANCE 3CULPTURE *OHN -URRAY OP $EPEND ABLE INTRODUCTION TO THE MILIEU OF $ONATELLO AND -ICHELANGELO -ICHAEL "AXANDALL 0AINTING AND %XPERIENCE IN &IFTEENTH #EN TURY )TALY /XFORD 5NIVERSITY 0RESS )NVALUABLE ANALYSIS CONCENTRATING ON THE WAY IN WHICH THE ART OF THE PERIOD WOULD HAVE BEEN PERCEIVED AT THE TIME
-ALCOLM "ULL 4HE -IRROR OF THE 'ODS #LASSICAL -YTHOLOGY IN 2ENAISSANCE !RT 0ENGUIN 3CORES OF ILLUSTRIOUS ACADEMICS HAVE DEVOTED THEMSELVES TO DECODING THE MEAN ING OF THE MULTITUDE OF 2ENAISSANCE ARTWORKS THAT ARE DERIVED FROM CLAS SICAL MYTHOLOGIES AND -ALCOLM "ULL IS HERE ARGUING IN ESSENCE n THIS IS A BOOK OF MANY ARGUMENTS THAT MOST OF THEM HAVE BEEN BARKING UP THE WRONG TREE (E CONTENDS THAT THERE IS NO COHERENT PHILOSOPHY UNDERLYING THIS USE OF PAGAN IMAGERY AND THAT SUCH ART WAS MARGINAL n AND NOT IN AN ENTIRELY NEGATIVE SENSE ! PROVOCA TIVE EXCITING AND DEMANDING STUDY +EITH #HRISTIANSEN 0AINTING IN 2ENAISSANCE 3IENA !BRAMS OP -ET ROPOLITAN -USEUM OP 4HE FULLEST STUDY OF THE SUBJECT 6INCENT #RONIN 4HE &LORENTINE 2ENAISSANCE AND 4HE &LOWERING OF THE 2ENAISSANCE 0IMLICO IN 5+ OP
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(UDSON OP IN 5+ %XEMPLARY REF ERENCE BOOK MANY OF WHOSE SUMMA RIES ARE AS INFORMATIVE AS ESSAYS TWICE THEIR LENGTH COVERS INDIVIDUAL ARTISTS MOVEMENTS CITIES PHILOSOPHICAL CON CEPTS THE LOT &REDERICK (ARTT $AVID 7ILKINS (ISTORY OF )TALIAN 2ENAIS SANCE !RT 0RENTICE (ALL )F ONE BOOK ON THIS VAST SUBJECT CAN BE SAID TO BE INDISPENSABLE THIS IS IT )N VIEW OF ITS COMPREHENSIVENESS AND THE RANGE OF ITS ILLUSTRATIONS ITS A BARGAIN -ICHAEL ,EVEY %ARLY 2ENAISSANCE 0ENGUIN OP 0RECISE AND mUENTLY WRITTEN ACCOUNT FROM FORMER DIREC TOR OF THE .ATIONAL 'ALLERY AND WELL ILLUSTRATED PROBABLY THE BEST INTRO DUCTION TO THE SUBJECT ,EVEYS (IGH 2ENAISSANCE 0ENGUIN OP CONTINUES THE STORY IN THE SAME STYLE -ICHAEL ,EVEY &LORENCE ! 0ORTRAIT 0IMLICO (ARVARD !N OFTEN ILLUMI NATING ANALYSIS OF THE CITYS HISTORY AND ITS ARTISTIC HISTORY IN PARTICULAR WITH SNIPPETS AND DETAILS MISSED BY OTHER ACCOUNTS !NNA -ARIA -ASSINELLI AND &ILIPPO 4UENA 4REASURES OF THE -EDICI 2IZZOLI 6ENDOME )LLUS TRATED INVENTORY OF THE -EDICI FAMILYS COLLECTION OF JEWELLERY VASES AND OTHER OBJETS DART PUBLISHED TO CELEBRATE THE TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE DEATH OF ,ORENZO IL -AGNIlCO PERHAPS THE CLANS MOST COMPULSIVE COLLECTOR .OT THE lRST BOOK TO BUY FOR YOUR &LORENTINE LIBRARY BUT DElNITIVE IN ITS lELD 0ETER -URRAY 4HE !RCHITECTURE OF THE )TALIAN 2ENAISSANCE 4HAMES (UDSON 3CHOCKEN "EGINS WITH 2OMANESQUE BUILDINGS AND lNISHES WITH 0ALLADIO n USEFUL BOTH AS A GAZETTEER OF THE MAIN MONUMENTS AND AS A SYNOPSIS OF THE UNDERLYING CONCEPTS $IANA .ORMAN 0AINTING IN ,ATE -EDIEVAL AND 2ENAISSANCE 3IENA 9ALE &IRST PUBLISHED IN THIS CONCISE AND WELL ILLUSTRATED BOOK EXPLICATES
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#ONCISE AND GRIPPING NARRATIVE OF )TALIAN ARTS GOLDEN YEARS n THE lRST VOLUME COVERS THE lFTEENTH CENTURY THE SECOND SWITCHES THE FOCUS TO SIX TEENTH CENTURY 2OME AND 6ENICE 2ONA 'OFFEN 2ENAISSANCE 2IVALS 9ALE )TS A TRUISM THAT THE CULTURAL HISTORY OF 2ENAISSANCE )TALY IS TO A LARGE EXTENT A HISTORY OF COM PETITION n BETWEEN ARTISTS BETWEEN INDIVIDUAL PATRONS AND BETWEEN THE VARIOUS CITY STATES (OWEVER 2ONA 'OFFENS MASTERLY BOOK PUBLISHED IN IS REVELATORY IN ITS ANALYSIS OF THE DEPTH AND THE COMPLEXITY OF THE ANTAGONISMS INVOLVED IN THE PRODUCTION OF HIGH ART IN THIS PERIOD #ONCENTRATING ABOVE ALL ON THE WORK OF -ICHELANGELO ,EONARDO 2APHAEL AND 4ITIAN AND MAKING INCISIVE USE OF A WEALTH OF DOCUMENTATION FROM POETRY TO LEGAL CONTRACTS SHE ILLU MINATES A WORLD IN WHICH PAINTERS SCULPTORS AND ARCHITECTS WERE CEASE LESSLY ENDEAVOURING TO SUPERSEDE THEIR CONTEMPORARY RIVALS AND THE EXEMPLARS OF THE ANCIENT WORLD 2ICHARD 'OY &LORENCE THE #ITY AND ITS !RCHITECTURE 0HAIDON 0UBLISHED IN THIS BOOK PRESENTS A FRESH APPROACH TO A SUBJECT ABOUT WHICH YOU MIGHT THINK THERES NOTHING NEW TO SAY )NSTEAD OF WRITING A DOG GEDLY SEQUENTIAL HISTORY 'OY HAS CON STRUCTED A BOOK THAT USES MULTIPLE PER SPECTIVES TO ILLUMINATE THE ARCHITECTURE OF &LORENCE THE lRST SECTION SUMMA RIZES THE CITYS DEVELOPMENT UP TO THE UNIlCATION OF )TALY PART TWO LOOKS AT THE INmUENCE OF THE TWO CHIEF hNUCLEI OF POWERv n THE #HURCH AND THE 3TATE PART THREE ANALYSES THE FABRIC OF THE CITY ACCORDING TO BUILDING TYPE PAL AZZI CHURCHES FORTIlCATIONS ETC AND THE lNAL SECTION LOOKS AT THE CHANGES THAT &LORENCE HAS UNDERGONE IN THE LAST CENTURY AND A HALF %NCOMPASSING EVERYTHING FROM THE "APTISTERY TO THE FOOTBALL STADIUM AND MAGNIlCENTLY ILLUSTRATED THIS IS A CLEAR lRST CHOICE *2 (ALE ED #ONCISE %NCYCLOPAEDIA OF THE )TALIAN 2ENAISSANCE 4HAMES
THE EVOLUTION OF 3IENESE ART FROM THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY TO THE MID DLE OF THE SIXTEENTH lNISHING WITH THE WORK OF "ECCAFUMI THE LAST 3IENESE PAINTER OF ANY MAGNITUDE *OHN 3HEARMAN -ANNERISM 0EN GUIN OP 4HE SELF CONSCIOUS ART OF SIXTEENTH CENTURY -ANNERISM IS ONE OF THE MOST COMPLEX TOPICS OF 2ENAISSANCE STUDIES 3HEARMANS BRIEF DISCUSSION ANALYSES THE MAIN CURRENTS AND NEVER SUCCUMBS TO OVERSIMPLIlCATION OR PEDANTRY
'IORGIO 6ASARI ,IVES OF THE !RTISTS 0ENGUIN 4HIS TWO VOLUME ABRIDGEMENT IS THE FULLEST AVAILABLE TRANSLATION OF 6ASARIS CLASSIC AND HIGHLY TENDENTIOUS WORK ON HIS PREDECESSORS AND CONTEMPORARIES )NCLUDES ESSAYS ON 'IOTTO "RUNEL LESCHI ,EONARDO AND -ICHELANGELO 4HE lRST REAL WORK OF ART HISTORY AND STILL AMONG THE MOST REVEALING BOOKS ON )TALIAN 2ENAISSANCE ART /XFORD 5NIVERSITY 0RESS PUBLISHES A NEWER AND BRIEFER ONE VOLUME SELECTION
)NDIVIDUAL ARTISTS
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*AMES ! !CKERMAN 4HE !RCHITECTURE OF -ICHELANGELO 5NIVERSITY OF #HI CAGO ! CONCISE SCHOLARLY AND HIGHLY ENGAGING SURVEY WHICH WILL MAKE YOU SEE -ICHELANGELOS ARCHITECTURE WITH FRESH EYES #HARLES !VERY $ONATELLO !N )NTRO DUCTION -URRAY OP )CON OP ! PERFECTLY SERVICEABLE BOOK THAT DOES EXACTLY WHAT ITS TITLE SUGGESTS BUT THERE IS A GAP IN THE MARKET FOR A MORE SUB STANTIAL %NGLISH LANGUAGE STUDY OF THIS TITANIC lGURE OF THE 2ENAISSANCE #HARLES !VERY 'IAMBOLOGNA 0HAI DON 4HIS IS THE BEST SURVEY OF THE CAREER OF THE PRE EMINENT SCULPTOR OF THE -ANNERIST PERIOD AN ARTIST WHO CAN BE SEEN AS THE SUCCESSOR OF -ICHELANGELO AND PRECURSOR OF "ERNINI 4HOUGH A LITTLE DOGGED IN ITS APPROACH n AN OVERVIEW OF THE CAREER FOLLOWED BY THEMATIC CHAPTERS DEVOT ED TO h-ONUMENTAL STATUESv h2ELI GIOUS SCULPTUREv h-ARBLE FOUNTAINSv ETC n !VERYS BOOK IS ADMIRABLY COM PREHENSIVE EVERY SINGLE SCULPTURE IS COVERED AND BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED WITH PLENTY OF DETAILED CLOSE UPS OF THE MAJOR PIECES AND FASCINATING EXAMPLES OF THE CLAY MODELS THAT 'IAMBOLOGNA CREATED WHILE SKETCHING OUT HIS IDEAS 5MBERTO "ALDINI AND /RNELLA #ASAZZA 4HE "RANCACCI #HAPEL 4HAMES (UDSON OP !BRAMS OP 7RITTEN
BY THE CHIEF RESTORERS OF THE "RAN CACCI CYCLE OF FRESCOES BY -ASACCIO -ASOLINO AND &ILIPPINO ,IPPI THIS LUSCIOUS BOOK IS ILLUSTRATED WITH MAG NIlCENT LIFE SIZE REPRODUCTIONS OF THE FRESHLY CLEANED MASTERPIECES ,UCIANO "ELLOSI $UCCIO 4HE -AESTÌ 4HAMES AND (UDSON 0UBLISHED IN THIS SUPERB PRODUCTION AIMS TO PRESENT hA VERY DIRECT EXPERIENCE OF $UCCIO DI "UONINSEGNAS MAS TERPIECEv AND IT DOES JUST THAT WITH PAGE AFTER PAGE OF THE HIGHEST QUALITY DETAILS FROM THE GREATEST OF ALL 3IENESE PAINTINGS 4HE ANALYTICAL ESSAY THAT PRECEDES THE REPRODUCTIONS IS A USEFUL INTRODUCTION TO THE WORK BUT ESSEN TIALLY THIS IS A BOOK TO CONTEMPLATE RATHER THAN TO READ +ENNETH #LARK ,EONARDO DA 6INCI 0ENGUIN /LD FASHIONED IN ITS REVER ENTIAL CONNOISSEURSHIP BUT STILL HIGHLY RECOMMENDED "RUCE #OLE 'IOTTO AND &LORENTINE 0AINTING n (ARPER#OLLINS OP %XCELLENT INTRODUCTION TO THE ART OF 'IOTTO AND HIS IMMEDIATE SUC CESSORS #ARLO 'INZBURG 4HE %NIGMA OF 0IERO 6ERSO !RT HISTORY AS DETECTIVE STORY ON A QUEST TO DECIPHER 0IEROS "APTISM THE !REZZO CYCLE AND THE &LAGELLATION 0ROVOCATIVE INGENIOUS AND OFTEN UTTERLY ECCENTRIC
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THE KEY ISSUES OF STYLE TECHNIQUE AND INTEPRETATION -ARTIN +EMP ,EONARDO /XFORD 5NIVERSITY 0RESS +EMP IS ONE OF THE WORLDS LEADING ,EONARDO SCHOLARS BUT HE WEARS HIS LEARNING LIGHTLY IN THIS BRIEF STUDY WHICH IS PRIMARILY CONCERNED WITH REVEALING THE INTEL LECTUAL PREOCCUPATIONS THAT UNITE THE ARTISTS MULTIFARIOUS CREATIONS 2OSS +ING "RUNELLESCHIS $OME 0EN GUIN 4HE TALE OF ONE OF THE MOST REMARKABLE FEATS OF ENGINEERING IN %UROPEAN HISTORY n THE DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION OF THE DOME OF &LOR ENCES CATHEDRAL +ING IS GOOD ON THE SOCIAL AND INTELLECTUAL ATMOSPHERE AND HAS A THRILLER WRITERS SENSE OF PACE -ARILYN !RONBERG ,AVIN 0IERO DELLA &RANCESCA 0HAIDON !NOTHER TITLE IN 0HAIDONS h!RT )DEASv PROJECT THIS IS THE BEST %NGLISH LANGUAGE INTRO DUCTION TO THIS MOST ELUSIVE OF MAJOR 2ENAISSANCE ARTISTS -ARILYN !RONBERG ,AVIN IS PERHAPS THE WORLDS LEAD ING AUTHORITY ON THE SUBJECT BUT THIS OVERVIEW IS PERFECTLY PITCHED FOR THE GENERAL READER AND BENElTS FROM HAVING BEEN PUBLISHED AFTER THE RESTORATION OF THE !REZZO CYCLE SO ITS ILLUSTRATIONS ARE UNIQUELY ACCURATE #HARLES .ICHOLL ,EONARDO 4HE &LIGHTS OF THE -IND 0ENGUIN ,EONARDO LEFT MORE THAN PAGES OF MANUSCRIPT NOTES AND .ICHOLLS DAZZLING BIOGRAPHY IS FOUNDED ON AN INTENSIVE STUDY OF THESE LARGELY UNPUBLISHED WRITINGS 4HE RESULT IS A BOOK WHICH IS BOTH A HIGHLY PER SUASIVE PORTRAIT OF THIS ELUSIVE GENIUS AND A COMPENDIOUS RECONSTRUCTION OF THE MILIEU IN WHICH HE WORKED *EFFREY 2UDA &RA &ILIPPO ,IPPI 0HAIDON &IRST PUBLISHED IN 2UDAS MONOGRAPH IS A lNE ACHIEVEMENT COMBINING A BIOGRAPHI CAL STUDY OF THE MOST WAYWARD OF EARLY 2ENAISSANCE MASTERS WITH A CONSISTENTLY ILLUMINATING ANALYSIS OF THE PAINTINGS WHICH ARE REPRODUCED IN GORGEOUS LARGE FORMAT COLOUR
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,UDWIG 'OLDSCHEIDER -ICHELANGELO 0AINTINGS 3CULPTURE !RCHITECTURE 0HAI DON 6IRTUALLY ALL MONOCHROME REPRODUCTIONS BUT AN EXTREMELY GOOD PICTORIAL SURVEY OF -ICHELANGELOS OUTPUT COVERING EVERYTHING EXCEPT THE DRAWINGS !NTHONY 'RAFTON ,EON "ATTISTA !LBERTI 0ENGUIN (ARVARD 5NI VERSITY 0RESS ! FASCINATING STUDY OF ONE OF THE CENTRAL lGURES OF THE 2ENAISSANCE 'RAFTONS BOOK ILLU MINATES EVERY ASPECT OF !LBERTIS ASTONISHINGLY VERSATILE CAREER WHICH ENCOMPASSED NOT JUST THE VISUAL ARTS AND ARCHITECTURE BUT ALSO MUSIC LAW SCIENCE AND LITERATURE )NVALUABLE NOT JUST AS A PORTRAIT OF AN AMAZING MAN BUT AS AN INTRODUCTION TO THE WHOLE CULTURE OF QUATTROCENTO )TALY *AMES (ALL -ICHELANGELO AND THE 2EINVENTION OF THE (UMAN "ODY #HATTO 7INDUS &ARRAR 3TRAUS 'IROUX ! PROVOCATIVE AND FREQUENT LY BRILLIANT STUDY OF -ICHELANGELO ARGUING FOR THE ESSENTIAL MODERNITY OF -ICHELANGELOS UNPRECEDENTED EMPHASIS ON THE MALE NUDE .OT ALL OF (ALLS OBSERVATIONS ARE WHOLLY CONVINCING BUT ON ALMOST EVERY PAGE THERES AN INSIGHT THAT WILL MAKE YOU LOOK AFRESH 7ILLIAM (OOD &RA !NGELICO AT 3AN -ARCO 9ALE 5NIVERSITY 0RESS -AIN TAINING THIS IMPRINTS REPUTATION FOR ELEGANTLY PRODUCED SCHOLARLY YET ACCESSIBLE ART BOOKS (OODS SOCIO AESTHETIC STUDY OF THE PANEL PAINT INGS AND FRESCOES OF &RA !NGELICO IS UNSURPASSED IN ITS SCOPE !NTHONY (UGHES -ICHELANGELO 0HAIDON 4HIS WAS ONE OF THE lRST TITLES IN 0HAIDONS h!RT )DEASv SERIES A PROJECT WHICH AIMS TO PRESENT WELL ILLUSTRATED OVERVIEWS OF THE WORK OF INDIVIDUAL ARTISTS AND ART MOVEMENTS WRITTEN BY SCHOLARS BUT IN A STYLE THATS ACCESSIBLE TO ALL -ICHELANGELO IS A SUPERB ADVERTISEMENT FOR THE SERIES GIVING A CLEAR NARRA TIVE WHILE DELINEATING THE SOCIAL AND CULTURAL MILIEU AND EXPLAINING CLEARLY
PLATES 4HE PAPERBACK EDITION IS AN ABRIDGED VERSION OF THE HARDBACK THE CATALOGUE OF ,IPPIS OUTPUT IS REDUCED TO A LIST OF KEY WORKS BUT ITS AS THOROUGH AS ANY LAY READER COULD WANT AND ASTONISHINGLY INEXPENSIVE FOR A PRODUCTION OF THIS QUALITY *OHN 7HITE $UCCIO 4USCAN !RT AND THE -EDIAEVAL 7ORKSHOP 4HAMES (UDSON OP 4HE FULLEST STUDY OF THE 3IENESE MASTER AVAILABLE IN %NGLISH CONCENTRATING ON HIS ART IN THE CONTEXT OF MEDIEVAL WORKSHOP
PRACTICES !LISON 7RIGHT 4HE 0OLLAIUOLO "ROTH ERS THE !RTS OF &LORENCE AND 2OME 9ALE !S PAINTERS SCULPTORS AND GOLDSMITHS THE 0OLLAIUOLO BROTHERS RAN ONE OF THE BUSIEST WORKSHOPS IN lFTEENTH CENTURY &LORENCE 7RIGHTS BOOK IS A THOROUGH AND SUPERBLY ILLUSTRATED STUDY OF THE BUSINESS OF ART PRODUCTION AS WELL AS GIVING AN UNIMPROVABLE GUIDE TO THE BROTHERS HIGHLY VARIED AND INNOVATIVE OUTPUT
,ITERATURE
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$ANTE !LIGHIERI 4HE $IVINE #OMEDY /XFORD 5NIVERSITY 0RESS VOLS .O WORK IN ANY OTHER LANGUAGE BEARS COMPARISON WITH $ANTES POETIC EXEGESIS OF THE MORAL SCHEME OF 'ODS CREATION IN LATE MEDIEVAL )TALY IT WAS VENERATED BOTH AS A BOOK OF ALMOST SCRIPTURAL AUTHORITY AND AS THE ULTIMATE RElNEMENT OF THE VERNACULAR 4USCAN LANGUAGE 4HERE ARE NUMEROUS TRANSLATIONS THE /XFORD 5NIVERSITY 0RESS VERSION IS IN PROSE BUT IT HAS THE ADVANTAGE OF PRESENTING THE ORIG INAL TEXT OPPOSITE THE %NGLISH AND HAS EXEMPLARY NOTES ,UDOVICO !RIOSTO /RLANDO &URIOSO 0ENGUIN "ARBARA 2EYNOLDS HAS DONE A lNE JOB IN THIS TWO VOLUME VERSE TRANSLATION OF )TALYS CHIVALRIC EPIC SET IN #HARLEMAGNES %UROPE /XFORD 5NIVERSITY 0RESS PRODUCES A ONE VOLUME PROSE TRANSLATION 'IOVANNI "OCCACCIO 4HE $ECAMERON 0ENGUIN 3ET IN THE PLAGUE RACKED &LORENCE OF "OCCACCIOS ASSEM BLY OF ONE HUNDRED SHORT STORIES IS A FASCINATING SOCIAL RECORD AS WELL AS A CONSTANTLY DIVERTING AND OFTEN SMUTTY COMEDY "ENVENUTO #ELLINI !UTOBIOGRAPHY 0ENGUIN 3HAMELESSLY EGOCENTRIC RECORD OF THE TRAVAILS AND TRIUMPHS OF
THE SCULPTOR AND GOLDSMITHS CAREER ONE OF THE FRESHEST LITERARY PRODUC TIONS OF ITS TIME /XFORD 5NIVERSITY 0RESS ALSO PUBLISHES AN EXCELLENT TRANSLATION UNDER THE TITLE -Y ,IFE .ICCOLO -ACHIAVELLI 4HE 0RINCE /XFORD 5NIVERSITY 0RESS ! TREA TISE ON STATECRAFT WHICH ACTUALLY DID LESS TO FORM THE POLITICAL THOUGHT OF )TALY THAN IT DID TO FORM FOREIGNERS PERCEPTIONS OF THE COUNTRY YET THERE WAS FAR MORE TO -ACHIAVELLI THAN THE 2EALPOLITIK OF 4HE 0RINCE AS IS SHOWN BY THE SELECTION OF WRITINGS INCLUDED IN 6IKINGS SUPERB ANTHOLOGY 4HE 0ORTABLE -ACHIAVELLI 0ETRARCH &RANCESCO 0ETRARCA 3ELECTIONS FROM THE #ANZONIERE /XFORD 5NIVERSITY 0RESS /FTEN DESCRIBED AS THE lRST MODERN POET BY VIRTUE OF HIS PREOCCUPATION WITH WORLDLY FAME AND SECULAR LOVE 0ETRARCH WROTE SOME OF THE )TALIAN LANGUAGES GREATEST LYRICS 4HIS SLIM SELECTION AT LEAST HINTS AT WHAT IS LOST IN TRANSLATION ,EONARDO DA 6INCI .OTEBOOKS /XFORD 5NIVERSITY 0RESS -ISCELLANY OF SPECULATION AND OBSERVATION FROM THE UNIVERSAL GENIUS OF 2ENAISSANCE )TALY ESSENTIAL TO ANY UNDERSTANDING OF THE MAN
4USCANY AND 5MBRIA IN %NGLISH lCTION LOCALE FOR MANY OF .ABBS BRILLIANT THRILLERS BASED ON A GOOD KNOWLEDGE OF THE CITYS LOW LIFE AND THE 3ARDIN IAN SHEPHERDS WHO DABBLE IN A SPOT OF KIDNAPPING IN THE HILLS -ICHAEL /NDAATJE 4HE %NGLISH 0ATIENT "LOOMSBURY 6INTAGE !T THE CLOSE OF 7ORLD 7AR )) A BADLY BURNED %NGLISH AVIATOR SEES OUT HIS DAYS IN A WRECKED 4USCAN VILLA ATTENDED BY A CAST OF CHARACTERS WHO COME FROM WIDELY DIFFERING BACKGROUNDS YET ALL THINK AND SPEAK IN HIGH mOWN LYRICAL LANGUAGE 3OME lND /NDAATJES PROSE HYPNOTIC OTHERS lND IT PORTENTOUS "ARRY 5NSWORTH !FTER (ANNIBAL 0ENGUIN .ORTON 5NSWORTH LIVES IN 5MBRIA WHICH IS WHERE THIS BLACK COMEDY IS SET 7HERE LESSER WRIT ERS RESORT TO ROSE TINTED FANTASIES 5NSWORTH EVOKES THE REALITY OF EXPAT EXISTENCE
&LORA AND FAUNA
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-ICHAEL $IBDIN 2ATKING &ABER 6INTAGE #RIME TIME IN 0ERUGIA "EST OF THE )TALY SET BOOKS OF AN AUTHOR WHO SOMETIMES TRIES A LITTLE TOO HARD TO UNDERLINE JUST HOW MUCH HE KNOWS ABOUT THE COUNTRY 'EORGE %LIOT 2OMOLA 0ENGUIN 7EIGHTY TALE OF lFTEENTH CENTURY &LORENCE RESEARCHED TO THE HILT BUT WILL PROBABLY REMAIN THE GREAT UNREAD %LIOT NOVEL %- &ORSTER 7HERE !NGELS &EAR TO 4READ 0ENGUIN 6INTAGE AND 2OOM WITH A 6IEW 0ENGUIN "ANTAM 4HE SETTINGS ARE RESPECTIVELY 3AN 'IMIGNANO AND &LORENCE THE MILIEU UPTIGHT %DWARDIAN %NGLISH SOCIETY IN &ORSTERS TWO PERFECTLY FORMED )TALIAN NOVELS -AGDALEN .ABB $EATH IN 3PRINGTIME $EATH IN !UTUMN AND MANY OTHER TITLES 3OHO 0RESS &LORENCE IS THE
(ERMANN (EINZEL 2ICHARD &IT TER *OHN 0ARSLOW 4HE "IRDS OF "RITAIN AND %UROPE #OLLINS "EST KNOWN GENERAL GUIDE WITH PLENTIFUL MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS ,IONEL (IGGINS .ORMAN 2ILEY &IELD 'UIDE TO THE "UTTERmIES OF "RITAIN AND %UROPE #OLLINS OP !MPLY ILLUSTRATED AND DETAILED HANDBOOK #* (UMPHRIES *2 0RESS $! 3UTTON 4REES OF "RITAIN AND %UROPE 0HILIPS (AMLYN ! THROUGH LY RELIABLE AND STRAIGHTFORWARD GUIDE /LEG 0OLUNIN !NTONY (UXLEY &LOWERS OF THE -EDITERRANEAN #HATTO 7INDUS OP %XCELLENT
GUIDE WITH COLOUR PICTURES LINE DRAWINGS AND CONCISE REFERENCE LIST AS AIDS TO IDENTIlCATION 4HOMAS 3CHAUER &IELD 'UIDE TO THE 7ILD &LOWERS OF "RITAIN AND %UROPE #OLLINS OP #OMPREHENSIVE HANDBOOK WITH GOOD DRAWINGS AND DETAILED DESCRIPTIONS #HRISTOPHER 'REY 7ILSON -ARJORIE "LAMEY !LPINE &LOWERS OF "RITAIN AND %UROPE #OLLINS OP &ULL ACCOUNT OF MOUNTAIN mORA PAR TICULARLY USEFUL AS A HANDBOOK FOR THE -ONTI 3IBILLINI /RECCHIELLA AND !LPI !PUANE
(IKING GUIDES 3TEFANO !RDITO ! 0IEDI IN 5MBRIA %DIZIONE )TER /NE OF A SERIES BY THE DOYEN OF )TALIAN BACKPACKERS
!NTONIO !RRIGHI AND 2OBERTO 0RATESI ! 0IEDI IN 4OSCANA %DIZIONE )TER VOLS 5SEFUL ROUTE GUIDES FOR WALKERS WITH BASIC MAPS 7IDELY AVAILABLE IN )TALY
7INE AND FOOD
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"URTON !NDERSON 6INO THE 7INES AND 7INEMAKERS OF )TALY ,ITTLE "ROWN OP 4HE DElNITIVE BOOK ON )TALIAN WINES DETAILING PRODUCTION METHODS GRAPE VARIETIES CLIMATES AND GEOLOGY AND WRITTEN IN A LIGHT HEARTED AND READABLE STYLE "URTON !NDERSON 4HE 0OCKET 'UIDE TO )TALIAN 7INES -ITCHELL "EAZLEY OP 3IMON 3CHUSTER OP %XCELLENT HANDBOOK FOR SELECTING RARER OR VIN TAGE WINES ON THE SPOT "URTON !NDERSON AND OTHERS #HIANTI %DIZIONI 'RAlCA #OMENSE OP #OMPREHENSIVE HANDBOOK TO THE WINES PRODUCERS AND RESTAURANTS OF THE REGION ,ESLIE &ORBES ! 4ABLE IN 4USCANY 0ENGUIN OP 2EGIONAL RECIPES PRESENTED IN THE FORMAT OF A FACSIMILE MANUSCRIPT ILLUSTRATED WITH COLOURFUL DRAWINGS
-ARCELLA (AZAN #LASSIC )TALIAN #OOKBOOK 0APERMAC "ALLANTINE OP -ARCELLA FEATURES A FAIR NUMBER OF 4USCAN RECIPES AND ISSUES THE KIND OF INSTRUCTIONS THAT INSPIRE TOTAL CONl DENCE (UGH *OHNSON 4USCANY AND ITS 7INES -ITCHELL "EAZLEY *OHNSONS KNOWL EDGE OF THE SUBJECT IS SOUND AND THE PHOTOGRAPHS ALMOST QUALIFY AS OENO PORN %LIZABETH 2OMER 4HE 4USCAN 9EAR ,IFE AND &OOD IN AN )TALIAN 6ALLEY /RION .ORTH 0OINT !N ENGAGING MIX OF RECIPES AND BACKGROUND ON COUNTRYSIDE TRADITIONS *ANET 2OSS AND -ICHAEL 7ATER lELD ,EAVES FROM OUR 4USCAN +ITCHEN 0ENGUIN OP #LASSIC VEGETARIAN RECIPES lRST PUBLISHED IN
,ANGUAGE
,ANGUAGE 0RONUNCIATION )TALIAN WORDS AND PHRASES )TALIAN MENU READER 'LOSSARY
)TALIAN 4
HE ABILITY TO SPEAK %NGLISH CONFERS PRESTIGE IN )TALY AND THERES OFTEN NO SHORTAGE OF PEOPLE WILLING TO SHOW OFF THEIR KNOWLEDGE PARTICULARLY IN THE MAIN CITIES AND RESORTS (OWEVER IN MORE REMOTE AREAS YOU MAY lND THAT NO ONE SPEAKS %NGLISH AT ALL 7HEREVER YOU ARE ITS A GOOD IDEA TO MASTER AT LEAST A LITTLE )TALIAN A TASK MADE EASIER BY THE FACT THAT YOUR HALTING EFFORTS WILL OFTEN BE REWARDED BY SMILES AND GENUINE SURPRISE )N ANY CASE ITS ONE OF THE EASIEST %UROPEAN LANGUAGES TO LEARN ESPECIALLY IF YOU ALREADY HAVE A SMATTERING OF &RENCH OR 3PANISH WHICH ARE EXTREMELY SIMILAR TO )TALIAN GRAMMATICALLY
0RONUNCIATION %ASIEST OF ALL IS THE PRONUNCIATION SINCE EVERY WORD IS SPOKEN EXACTLY AS ITS WRITTEN AND USUALLY ENUNCIATED WITH EXAGGERATED OPEN MOUTHED CLARITY 4HE ONLY DIFlCULTIES YOURE LIKELY TO ENCOUNTER ARE THE FEW CONSONANTS THAT ARE DIF FERENT FROM %NGLISH
\ 0RONUNCIATION
7HEN SPEAKING TO STRANGERS THE THIRD PERSON IS THE POLITE FORM IE ,EI INSTEAD OF 4U FOR hYOUv USING THE SECOND PERSON IS A MARK OF DISRESPECT OR STUPIDITY )TS ALSO WORTH REMEMBERING THAT )TALIANS DONT USE hPLEASEv AND hTHANK YOUv HALF AS MUCH AS WE DO ITS ALL IMPLIED IN THE TONE THOUGH IF YOURE IN ANY DOUBT ERR ON THE POLITE SIDE !LL )TALIAN WORDS ARE STRESSED ON THE PENULTIMATE SYLLABLE UNLESS A STRESS MARK n | OR { n DENOTES OTHERWISE .OTE THAT THE ENDING IA OR IE COUNTS AS TWO SYLLABLES HENCE TRATTORIA IS STRESSED ON THE I 'ENERALLY IN THE TEXT WEVE ADDED STRESS MARKS WHENEVER IT ISNT IMMEDIATELY OBVIOUS HOW A WORD SHOULD BE PRONOUNCED THOUGH YOU SHOULDNT ASSUME THAT THIS IS HOW YOULL SEE THE WORDS WRITTEN IN )TALIAN QUITE OFTEN THEYRE OMITTED ALTOGETHER &OR EXAMPLE IN -ARÓTTIMA THE MARK IS ON THE lRST I BUT ON )TALIAN MAPS ITS OFTEN WRITTEN AS -ARITTIMA !CCENTS LOOK SIMILAR TO STRESS MARKS n GENERALLY { n BUT THEY HAVE THE FUNCTION OF ALTERING A WORDS lNAL VOWEL SOUND AS IN SÖ OR CAFFÒ AND CAN NEVER BE DROPPED
, ! . ' 5!' %
C BEFORE E OR I IS PRONOUNCED AS IN CHURCH CH BEFORE E OR I IS HARD AS IN CAT SCI PRONOUNCED AS IN SHEET SCE PRONOUNCED AS IN SHELTER G IS SOFT BEFORE E OR I AS IN GERANIUM HARD BEFORE H AS IN GARLIC GN AS IN ONION GL IS SOFTENED THE G IS SILENT AS IN STALLION H IS NOT ASPIRATED AS IN HONOUR
)TALIAN WORDS AND PHRASES 4HE "ASICS
, ! . ' 5!' %
\ )TALIAN WORDS AND PHRASES
GOOD MORNING BUONGIORNO GOOD AFTERNOONEVENING BUONA SERA GOOD NIGHT BUONA NOTTE HELLOGOODBYE INFORMAL CIAO GOODBYE FORMAL ARRIVEDERCI YES SÖ NO NO PLEASE PER FAVORE THANK YOU VERY MUCH MOLTEMILLE GRAZIE YOURE WELCOME PREGO ALRIGHTTHATS /+ VA BENE EXCUSE ME APOLOGY MI SCUSIPREGO EXCUSE ME IN A CROWD PERMESSO SORRY MI DISPIACE (OW ARE YOU INFORMAL #OME STAI (OW ARE YOU FORMAL #OME STA )M lNE BENE $O YOU SPEAK %NGLISH 0ARLA INGLESE ) DONT UNDERSTAND .ON HO CAPITO ) DONT KNOW .ON LO SO )M HERE ON HOLIDAY 3ONO QUI IN VACANZA ) LIVE INx !BITO Ax )Mx 3ONOx %NGLISH3COTTISH INGLESESCOZZESE 7ELSH)RISH GALLESEIRLANDESE !MERICAN MF AMERICANOA #ANADIAN.EW :EALAND CANADESENUOVA ZELANDESE !USTRALIAN MF AUSTRALIANOA -Rx 3IGNORx -RSx 3IGNORAx -ISSx 3IGNORINAx USE IL 3IGNOR LA 3IGNORA LA 3IGNORINA WHEN SPEAKING ABOUT SOMEONE ELSE 7HAT TIME DOES IT ! CHE ORA OPENCLOSE APRECHIUDE (OW MUCH 1UANTO
(OW MUCH DOES IT COST 1UANTÒ 7HATS IT CALLED IN )TALIAN #OME SI CHIAMA IN ITALIANO 7HERE $OVE 7HERE ISAREx $OVÒx $OVE SONOx 7HEN 1UANDO 7HAT #OSA 7HAT IS IT #OSÒ (OW MANY 1UANTI 7HY 0ERCHÒ )T IS4HERE IS ¶#Ò )S ITx )S THEREx ¶x #Òx HERETHERE QUILA GOODBAD BUONOCATTIVO BIGSMALL GRANDEPÓCCOLO CHEAPEXPENSIVE ECONØMICOCARO EARLYLATE PRESTORITARDO HOTCOLD CALDOFREDDO NEARFAR VICINOLONTANO QUICKLYSLOWLY VELOCEMENTE LENTAMENTE SLOWLY OR QUIETLY PIANO WITHWITHOUT CONSENZA MORELESS PIáMENO ENOUGH NO MORE BASTA WAIT A MINUTE ASPETTA TODAY OGGI TOMORROW DOMANI DAY AFTER TOMORROW DOPODOMANI YESTERDAY IERI NOW ADESSO LATER PIá TARDI IN THE MORNING DI MATTINA IN THE AFTERNOON NEL POMERIGGIO IN THE EVENING DI SERA 7HAT TIME IS IT #HE ORA Ò #HE ORE SONO
3OME SIGNS
ENTRANCEEXIT FREE ADMISSION
ENTRATAUSCITA INGRESSO LÓBERO
OPENCLOSED APERTOCHIUSO CLOSED FOR RESTORATION CHIUSO PER RESTAURO
CLOSED FOR HOLIDAYS PULLPUSH DO NOT TOUCH DANGER BEWARE OUT OF ORDER NO SMOKING RING THE BELL DRINKING WATER GENTSLADIES TOILET
CHIUSO PER FERIE TIRARESPINGERE NON TOCCARE PERÓCOLO ATTENZIONE GUASTO VIETATO FUMARE SUONARE IL CAMPANELLO ACQUA POTABILE SIGNORISIGNORE
7# VACANTENGAGED ARRIVALSDEPARTURES PLATFORM CASH DESK TO LET GO OR WALK STOP CUSTOMS lRST AID
BAGNO LIBEROOCCUPATO ARRIVIPARTENZE BINARIO CASSA AFFÓTASI AVANTI ALT DOGANA PRONTO SOCCORSO
!CCOMMODATION
2ESTAURANTS )D LIKE TO RESERVE A TABLE (AVE YOU A TABLE FOR TWO )D LIKE TO ORDER
6ORREI RISERVARE UNA TAVOLA !VETE UNA TAVOLA PER DUE 6ORREI ORDINARE
)M A VEGETARIAN MF 3ONO VEGETARIANOA )D LIKEx 6ORREIx )TS GOODDELICIOUS ¶ BUONOSQUISITO 4HE BILL PLEASE )L CONTO PER FAVORE )S SERVICE INCLUDED )L SERVIZIO Ò INCLUSO
AUTOBUSPULLMAN AUTOSTAZIONE TRENO
TRAIN STATION FERRY HYDROFOIL
\ )TALIAN WORDS AND PHRASES
#OULD ) SEE ANOTHER 0OTREI GUARDARE ROOM UNALTRA CAMERA (OW MUCH IS IT 1UANTO COSTA )S BREAKFAST INCLUDED ¶ COMPRESA LA PRIMA COLAZIONE HALFFULL BOARD MEZZA PENSIONE PENSIONE COMPLETA $O YOU HAVE ANYTHING (A NIENTE CHE COSTA DI CHEAPER MENO #AN ) SEE THE ROOM 0OSSO VEDERE LA CAMERA )LL TAKE IT ,A PRENDO #AN WE CAMP HERE 0OSSIAMO FARE IL CAMPEGGIO QUI )S THERE A CAMPSITE #Ò UN CAMPING QUI NEARBY VICINO TENT TENDA CABIN CABINA YOUTH HOSTEL OSTELLO PER LA GIOVENTá PORTER IL FACCHINO LIFT ASCENSORE KEY LA CHIAVE
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)S THERE A HOTEL #Ò UN ALBERGO QUI NEARBY VICINO $O YOU HAVE ROOMS !VETE CAMERE LIBERE FREE )D LIKE TO BOOK A 6ORREI PRENOTARE UNA ROOM CAMERA ) HAVE A BOOKING (O UNA PRENOTAZIONE A SINGLEDOUBLE ROOM UNA CAMERA SINGOLA DOPPIA $O YOU HAVE A ROOMx (A UNA CAMERAx FOR ONE PERSON PER UNA PERSONA FOR TWOTHREE PEOPLE PER DUETRE PERSONE FOR ONE NIGHT PER UNA NOTTE FOR TWOTHREE NIGHTS PER DUETRE NOTTI FOR ONE WEEK PER UNA SETTIMANA FOR TWO WEEKS PER DUE SETTIMANE WITH A DOUBLE BED CON UN LETTO MATRIMONIALE WITH TWIN BEDS A DUE LETTI WITH A SHOWERBATH CON UNA DOCCIAUN BAGNO WITH A BALCONY CON UNA TERRAZZA HOTCOLD WATER ACQUA CALDAFREDDO
4RAVELLING BUS BUS STATION TRAIN
STAZIONE FERROVIARIA TRAGHETTO ALISCAFO
FERRY TERMINAL STAZIONE MARÓTTIMA PORT PORTO SHIP NAVE ! TICKET TOx 5N BIGLIETTO Ax ONE WAY SOLO ANDATA RETURN ANDATA E RITORNO #AN ) BOOK A SEAT 0OSSO PRENOTARE UN POSTO 7HAT TIME DOES IT ! CHE ORA PARTE LEAVE 7HEN IS THE NEXT 1UANDO PARTE IL TRAIN TOx PROSSIMO TRENO PERx $O ) HAVE TO CHANGE $EVO CAMBIARE 7HERE DOES IT LEAVE $A DOVE PARTE FROM 7HAT PLATFORM DOES $A QUALE BINARIO IT LEAVE FROM PARTE (OW MANY KILOMETRES 1UANTI CHILOMETRI IS IT SONO
(OW LONG DOES IT TAKE 1UANTO CI VUOLE 7HAT NUMBER BUS 1UE NÞMERO DI IS IT TOx AUTOBUS PERx (OW DO ) GET TOx #OME ARRIVO Ax (OW FAR IS IT TOx 1UANTÒ LONTANO Ax #AN YOU GIVE ME A -I PUÛ DARE UN LIFT TOx PASSAGGIO Ax LEFTRIGHT SINISTRODESTRO GO STRAIGHT AHEAD SEMPRE DIRITTO TURN TO THE LEFTRIGHT GIRA A DESTRASINISTRA #AN YOU TELL ME WHEN -I PUÛ DIRE SCENDERE TO GET OFF ALLA FERMATA GIUSTA .EXT STOP PLEASE ,A PROSSIMA FERMATA PER FAVORE BICYCLE BICICLETTA HITCHHIKING AUTOSTOP ON FOOT A PIEDI
$RIVING
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\ )TALIAN WORDS AND PHRASES
CAR MACCHINA 7HERES THE ROAD TOx $OVÒ LA STRADA Ax PARKING PARCHEGGIO NO PARKING DIVIETO DI SOSTASOSTA VIETATA ONE WAY STREET SENSO ÞNICO NO ENTRY SENSO VIETATO
SLOW DOWN ROAD CLOSEDUP NO THROUGH ROAD NO OVERTAKING CROSSROADS SPEED LIMIT
RALLENTARE STRADA CHIUSAGUASTA VIETATO IL TRANSITO VIETATO IL SORPASSO INCROCIO LIMITE DI VELOCITÌ
DICIANNOVE VENTI VENTUNO VENTIDUE TRENTA QUARANTA CINQUANTA SESSANTA SETTANTA OTTANTA NOVANTA CENTO CENTUNO CENTODIECI DUECENTO CINQUECENTO MILLE CINQUEMILA
.UMBERS
UNO DUE TRE QUATTRO CINQUE SEI SETTE OTTO NOVE DIECI UNDICI DODICI TREDICI QUATTORDICI QUINDICI SEDICI DICIASSETTE DICIOTTO
)TALIAN MENU READER -EALS AND COURSES LA COLAZIONE PRANZO CENA ANTIPASTI PRIMI
BREAKFAST LUNCH EVENING MEAL STARTERS lRST COURSES
ZUPPEMINESTRE SECONDI CONTORNI DOLCI MENá DEGUSTAZIONE
SOUPS MAIN COURSES VEGETABLES DESSERTS TASTING MENU
MAIONESE MARMELLATA OLIO OLIVE PANE PANE INTEGRALE PANINO PANNA PATATINE PATATINE FRITTE PEPE PIZZETTA RISO SALE UOVA ZUCCHERO
MAYONNAISE JAM JELLY OIL OLIVES BREAD WHOLEMEAL BREAD BREAD ROLLSANDWICH CREAM CRISPS POTATO CHIPS CHIPS FRENCH FRIES PEPPER SMALL CHEESE AND TOMATO PIZZA RICE SALT EGGS SUGAR
AL -ARSALA -ILANESE PIZZAIOLA AL PUNTINO RIPIENO AL SANGUE ALLO SPIEDO SURGELATO UMIDO
COOKED WITH -ARSALA WINE FRIED IN EGG AND BREADCRUMBS COOKED WITH TOMATO SAUCE MEDIUM STEAK STUFFED RARE STEAK ON THE SPIT FROZEN STEAMEDSTEWED
'ENERAL TERMS
#OOKING TERMS AFFUMICATO ARROSTO BEN COTTO BOLLITOLESSO BRASATA COTTO CRUDO AL DENTE AÓ FERRI FRITTO GRATTUGGIATO ALLA GRIGLIA
SMOKED ROAST WELL DONE BOILED COOKED IN WINE COOKED NOT RAW RAW lRM NOT OVERCOOKED GRILLED WITHOUT OIL FRIED GRATED GRILLED
\ )TALIAN MENU READER
WAITER MENU WINE LIST KNIFE FORK SPOON WITHOUT MEAT COVER CHARGE SERVICE CHARGE VINEGAR GARLIC BISCUITS BUTTER SWEETS CHOCOLATE OVEN BAKED SNACK OMELETTE BREADSTICKS
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IL CAMERIERE IL MENáLA LISTA LA LISTA DEI VINI UN COLTELLO UNA FORCHETTA UN CUCCHIAIO SENZA CARNE COPERTO SERVIZIO ACETO AGLIO BISCOTTI BURRO CARAMELLE CIOCCOLATO FOCACCIA FRITTATA GRISSINI
0IZZAS CALZONE FOLDED PIZZA WITH CHEESE HAM AND TOMATO CAPRICCIOSA LITERALLY hCAPRICIOUSv TOPPED WITH WHATEVER THEYVE GOT IN THE KITCHEN USUALLY INCLUDING BABY ARTICHOKE HAM AND EGG CARDINALE HAM AND OLIVES FRUTTA DI MARE SEAFOOD USUALLY MUSSELS PRAWNS AND CLAMS FUNGHI MUSHROOMS THE TINNED SLICED VARIETY UNLESS IT SPECIlES FRESH FUNGHI FRESCHI
MARGHERITA CHEESE AND TOMATO MARINARA TOMATO ANCHOVY AND OLIVE OIL NAPONAPOLETANA TOMATO QUATTRO FORMAGGI hFOUR CHEESESv USUALLY INCLUDING MOZZARELLA FONTINA AND GRUYÒRE QUATTRO STAGIONI hFOUR SEASONSv THE TOPPINGS SPLIT INTO FOUR SEPARATE SECTIONS USUALLY INCLUDING HAM GREEN PEPPER ONION EGG ETC
!NTIPASTI
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\ )TALIAN MENU READER
ANTIPASTO MISTO CAPONATA CAPRESE CROSTINI INSALATA DI MARE INSALATA DI RISO INSALATA RUSSA MELANZANE IN PARMIGIANA PEPERONATA POMODORI RIPIENI PROSCIUTTO
MIXED COLD MEATS AND CHEESE MIXED AUBERGINE OLIVES TOMATOES TOMATO AND MOZZARELLA SALAD MIXED CHICKEN LIVER CANAPÏS SEAFOOD SALAD RICE SALAD 2USSIAN SALAD DICED VEGETABLES IN MAYONNAISE AUBERGINE IN TOMATO AND 0ARMESAN CHEESE GREEN AND RED PEPPERS STEWED IN OLIVE OIL STUFFED TOMATOES HAM
4USCAN ANTIPASTI CROSTINI DI MILZA DONZELEDONZELLINE FETTUNABRUSCHETTA
MINCED SPLEEN ON PIECES OF TOAST FRIED DOUGH BALLS GARLIC TOAST WITH OLIVE OIL
lNOCCHIONA PORK SAUSAGE mAVOURED WITH FENNEL PINZIMONIO RAW SEASONAL VEGETABLE IN OLIVE OIL WITH SALT AND PEPPER PROSCIUTTO DI CINGHIALE CURED WILD BOAR HAM SALAME TOSCANO PORK SAUSAGE WITH PEPPER AND CUBES OF FAT SALSICCE PORK OR WILD BOAR SAUSAGE
5MBRIAN ANTIPASTI PROSCIUTTO DI.ORCIA SALAME MEZZAFEGATO SCHIACCIATA TORTA AL TESTO
CURED HAM FROM .ORCIA SAUSAGE SPICED WITH A MIXTURE OF PINE NUTS PORK LIVER CANDIED ORANGE SUGAR AND RAISINS mAT BREAD BAKED WITH OLIVE OIL OR mAVOURED WITH ONIONS OR COOKED GREENS UNLEAVENED BREAD BAKED ON A STONE SLAB
STRACCIATELLA
BROTH WITH EGG
0RIMI 3OUPS
BRODO MINESTRINA MINESTRONE PASTA FAGIOLI PASTINI IN BRODO
CLEAR BROTH ANY LIGHT SOUP THICK VEGETABLE SOUP PASTA SOUP WITH BEANS PASTA PIECES IN CLEAR BROTH
0ASTA CANNELLONI FARFALLE
LARGE TUBES OF PASTA STUFFED LITERALLY hBUTTERmYv SHAPED PASTA
FETTUCINE GNOCCHI MACCHERONI PASTA AL FORNO PENNE RIGATONI RISOTTO SPAGHETTINI TAGLIATELLE TORTELLINI VERMICELLI
NARROW PASTA RIBBONS SMALL POTATO AND DOUGH DUMPLINGS TUBULAR SPAGHETTI PASTA BAKED WITH MINCED MEAT EGGS TOMATO AND CHEESE SMALLER PIECES OF RIGATONI LARGE GROOVED TUBULAR PASTA COOKED RICE DISH WITH SAUCE THIN SPAGHETTI PASTA RIBBONS ANOTHER WORD FOR FETTUCINE SMALL RINGS OF PASTA STUFFED WITH MEAT OR CHEESE hLITTLE WORMSv VERY THIN SPAGHETTI
0ASTA SAUCE SALSA
4USCAN PRIMI ACQUACOTTA CACCIUCCO
ONION SOUP SERVED WITH TOAST AND POACHED EGG lSH STEW WITH TOMATOES BREAD AND RED WINE
5MBRIAN PRIMI MANFRIGOLI RUSTIC PASTA MADE FROM EMMER A COARSE TYPE OF WHEAT INTRODUCED INTO THE REGION BY THE 2OMANS MINESTRA DI FARRO TOMATO WHEAT AND VEGETABLE SOUP PICISTRINGOZZICERIOLE THREAD LIKE SPAGHETTI USUALLY SERVED WITH GARLICKY TOMATO SAUCE SPAGHETTI ALLA NORCINA SPAGHETTI WITH AN OILY SAUCE OF BLACK TRUFmES GARLIC AND ANCHOVIES UMBRICI LARGE HEAVY NOODLES
\ )TALIAN MENU READER
SPICY TOMATO SAUCE WITH CHILLIES TOMATO AND MEAT BUTTER CREAM HAM AND BEATEN EGG MUSHROOMS TOMATO AND CUBED PORK CREAM 0ARMESAN CHEESE OLIVE OIL GARLIC AND FRESH CHILLIES GREEN BASIL AND GARLIC SAUCE TOMATO SAUCE MEAT SAUCE CLAM AND TOMATO SAUCE
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ARRABBIATA BOLOGNESE BURRO CARBONARA FUNGHI MATRICIANA PANNA PARMIGIANO PEPERONCINO PESTO POMODORO RAGá VONGOLE
CARABACCIA ONION SOUP GARMUGIA SOUP MADE WITH FAVA BEANS PEAS ARTICHOKES ASPARAGUS AND BACON GNOCCHI DI RICOTTA DUMPLINGS lLLED WITH RICOTTA AND SPINACH MINESTRA DI FARRO WHEAT AND BEAN SOUP MINESTRONE ALLA HARICOT BEAN SOUP WITH lORENTINA RED CABBAGE TOMATOES ONIONS AND HERBS PANZANELLA SUMMER SALAD OF TOMATOES BASIL CUCUMBER ONION AND BREAD PAPPA AL POMODORO TOMATO SOUP THICKENED WITH BREAD PAPPARDELLE WIDE SHORT NOODLES OFTEN SERVED WITH HARE SAUCE CON LEPRE PASTA ALLA CARRETTIERA PASTA WITH TOMATO GARLIC PEPPER PARSLEY AND CHILLI PENNE STRASCIATE QUILL SHAPED PASTA IN MEAT SAUCE RIBOLLITA WINTER VEGETABLE SOUP BASED ON BEANS AND THICKENED WITH BREAD RISOTTO NERO RICE COOKED WITH CUTTLElSH IN ITS OWN INK ZUPPA DI FAGIOLI BEAN SOUP
3ECONDI -EAT CARNE
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\ )TALIAN MENU READER
AGNELLO BISTECCA CERVELLO CINGHIALE CONIGLIO COSTOLETTE COTOLETTE FAGIAON FARAONA FEGATINI FEGATO INVOLTINI LEPRE LINGUA MAIALE MANZO MORTADELLA OSSOBUCO PERNICE PANCETTA POLLO POLPETTE ROGNONI SALSICCIA SALTIMBOCCA SPEZZATINO TACCHINO TRIPPA VITELLO
LAMB STEAK BRAIN WILD BOAR RABBIT CHOPS CUTLETS PHEASANT GUINEA FOWL CHICKEN LIVERS LIVER MEAT SLICES ROLLED AND STUFFED HARE TONGUE PORK BEEF SALAMI TYPE CURED MEAT SHIN OF VEAL PARTRIDGE BACON CHICKEN MEATBALLS KIDNEYS SAUSAGE VEAL WITH HAM STEW TURKEY TRIPE VEAL
&ISH PESCE AND SHELLlSH CROSTACEI ACCIUGHE ANGUILLA ARAGOSTA BACCALÌ CALAMARI CÏFALO COZZE DENTICE GAMBERETTI GÉMBERI
ANCHOVIES EEL LOBSTER DRIED SALTED COD SQUID MULLET MUSSELS DENTEX SHRIMPS PRAWNS
GRANCHIO MERLUZZO OSTRICHE PESCESPADA PØOIPO SARDE SGOMBRO SOGLIOLA TONNO TRIGLIE TROTA VØNGOLE
CRAB COD OYSTERS SWORDlSH OCTOPUS SARDINES MACKEREL SOLE TUNA RED MULLET TROUT CLAMS
4USCAN SECONDI ARISTA ROAST PORK LOIN WITH GARLIC AND ROSEMARY ASPARAGI ALLA lORENTINA ASPARAGUS WITH BUTTER FRIED EGG AND CHEESE BACCALÌ ALLA LIVORNESE SALT COD WITH GARLIC TOMATOES AND PARSLEY BISTECCA ALLA lORENTINA THICK GRILLED 4 BONE STEAK CIBREO CHICKEN LIVER AND EGG STEW CIECHE ALLA PISANA SMALL EELS COOKED WITH SAGE AND TOMATOES SERVED WITH 0ARMESAN LOMBATINA VEAL CHOP PEPOSO PEPPERED BEEF STEW POLLO ALLA DIAVOLA CHICKEN mATTENED WITH AL MATTONE A BRICK GRILLED WITH HERBS SCOTTIGLIA STEW OF VEAL GAME AND POULTRY COOKED WITH WHITE WINE AND TOMATOES SPIEDINI DI MAIALE SKEWERED SPICED CUBES OF PORK LOIN AND LIVER WITH BREAD AND BAY LEAVES TONNO CON FAGIOLI TUNA WITH WHITE BEANS AND RAW ONION TRIGILE ALLA LIVORNESE RED MULLET COOKED WITH TOMATOES GARLIC AND PARSLEY TRIPPA ALLA lORENTINA TRIPE IN TOMATO SAUCE SERVED WITH 0ARMESAN
5MBRIAN SECONDI ANGUILLA ALLA BRACE GRILLED EEL ANGUILLA IN ÞMIDO EEL COOKED WITH TOMATOES ONIONS GARLIC AND WHITE WINE FRITTATA DI TARTUl BLACK TRUFmE OMELETTE GOBBI ALLA PERUGINA DEEP FRIED CARDOONS LIKE ARTICHOKES WITH MEAT SAUCE LEPRE ALLE OLIVE HARE COOKED WITH HERBS WHITE WINE AND OLIVES PALOMBEPALOMBACCI WOODPIGEON USUALLY SPIT ROASTED
POLLO IN PORCHETTA PORCHETTA REGINA IN PORCHETTA SALSICCIA ALLUVA TEGAMACCIO
CHICKEN COOKED IN THE SAME WAY AS SUCKLING PIG SUCKLING PIG COOKED IN A WOOD OVEN WITH FENNEL GARLIC MINT AND ROSEMARY ,AGO 4RASIMENO CARP COOKED AS ABOVE PORK SAUSAGE COOKED WITH GRAPES FRESHWATER lSH STEW WITH WHITE WINE AND HERBS
6EGETABLES CONTORNI AND SALAD INSALATA ORÓGANO PATATE PEPERONI PISELLI POMODORI RADICCHIO SPINACI ZUCCHINI
OREGANO POTATOES PEPPERS PEAS TOMATOES CHICORY SPINACH COURGETTES
4USCAN CONTORNI FAGIOLI ALLOLIO FAGIOLI ALLUCCELLETTO FRITTATA DI CARCIOl
WHITE BEANS SERVED WITH OLIVE OIL WHITE BEANS COOKED WITH TOMATOES GARLIC AND SAGE FRIED ARTICHOKE mAN
3WEETS DOLCI FRUIT FRUTTA CHEESE FORMAGGI AND NUTS NOCE AMARETTI ANANAS ANGURIACOCCØMERO ARANCE BANANE CACCHI CILÓEGIE lCHI lCHI D)NDIA FONTINA
MACAROONS PINEAPPLE WATERMELON ORANGES BANANAS PERSIMMONS CHERRIES lGS PRICKLY PEARS NORTHERN )TALIAN COOKING CHEESE
FRAGOLE GELATO GORGONZOLA LIMONE MACEDONIA MANDORLE MELE MELONE MOZZARELLA NESPOLE
STRAWBERRIES ICE CREAM A SOFT BLUE CHEESE LEMON FRUIT SALAD ALMONDS APPLES MELON BLAND SOFT WHITE CHEESE USED ON PIZZAS MEDLARS
\ )TALIAN MENU READER
ASPARAGUS BASIL CAPERS ARTICHOKES ARTICHOKE HEARTS CARROTS CAULImOWER CABBAGE CUCUMBER ONION GREEN BEANS FENNEL MUSHROOMS MIXED SALAD GREEN SALAD AUBERGINE
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ASPARAGI BASÓLICO CAPPERI CARCIOl CARCIOlNI CAROTTE CAVOLlORI CÉVOLO CETRIOLO CIPOLLA FAGIOLINI lNOCCHIO FUNGHI INSALATA MISTA INSALATA VERDE MELANZANE
PARMIGIANO PECORINO PERE PESCHE PIGNOLI PROVOLONE RICOTTA TORTA UVA ZABAGLIONE ZUPPA INGLESE
0ARMESAN CHEESE STRONG HARD SHEEPS CHEESE PEARS PEACHES PINE NUTS STRONG HARD CHEESE SOFT WHITE SHEEPS CHEESE CAKE TART GRAPES DESSERT MADE WITH EGGS SUGAR AND -ARSALA WINE TRImE
4USCAN DOLCI
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\ )TALIAN MENU READER
BRIGIDINI BUCCELLATO CANTUCCICANTUCCINI CASTAGNACCIO CENCI
ANISE WAFER BISCUITS ANISE RAISIN CAKE SMALL ALMOND BISCUITS SERVED WITH 6INSANTO WINE UNLEAVENED CHESTNUT mOUR CAKE CONTAINING RAISINS WALNUTS AND ROSEMARY FRIED DOUGH DUSTED WITH POWDERED SUGAR
FRITTELLE DI RISO RICE FRITTERS MERINGA FROZEN MERINGUE WITH WHIPPED CREAM AND CHOCOLATE NECCI CHESTNUT mOUR CRÐPES PANFORTE HARD FRUIT NUT AND SPICE CAKE RICCIARELLI MARZIPAN ALMOND BISCUITS SCHIACCIATA ALLA ORANGE mAVOURED CAKE lORENTINA COVERED WITH POWDERED SUGAR EATEN AT CARNIVAL TIME SCHIACCIATA CON LUVA GRAPE AND SUGAR COVERED BREAD DESSERT ZUCCOTTO SPONGE CAKE lLLED WITH CHOCOLATE AND WHIPPED CREAM
5MBRIAN DOLCI CIALDE PAPER THIN SWEET BISCUITS FAVE DI MORTE ALMOND BISCUITS PINOCCATE PINE NUT BISCUITS SERPENTONETORCOLATO ALMOND AND DRIED FRUIT DESSERT IN THE SHAPE OF A COILED SNAKE TORCOLO
$RINKING ESSENTIALS APERITIVO DIGESTIVO VINO ROSSO VINO BIANCO VINO ROSATO SPUMANTE SECCO DOLCE BIRRA LITRO MEZZO QUATRO 3ALUTE ACQUA MINERALE ARANCIATA BICCHIERE BOTTIGLIA
PRE DINNER DRINK AFTER DINNER DRINK RED WINE WHITE WINE ROSÏ WINE SPARKLING WINE DRY SWEET BEER LITRE HALF LITRE QUARTER LITRE #HEERS TOAST MINERAL WATER ORANGEADE GLASS BOTTLE
CAFFÒ CIOCCOLATA CALDA FRAPPÏ FRULLATO GHIACCIO GRANITA LATTE LIMONATE SELZ SPREMUTA SUCCO DI FRUTTA TAZZA TÒ TONICO
COFFEE HOT CHOCOLATE MILKSHAKE MADE WITH ICE CREAM MILKSHAKE ICE ICED DRINK WITH COFFEE OR FRUIT MILK LEMONADE SODA WATER FRESH FRUIT JUICE CONCENTRATED FRUIT JUICE WITH SUGAR CUP TEA TONIC WATER
'LOSSARY !RTISTIC AND ARCHITECTURAL TERMS IN %NGLISH %X VOTO !RTEFACT DESIGNED IN THANKSGIVING TO A SAINT 4HE ADJECTIVE IS EX VOTIVE &RESCO 7ALL PAINTING TECHNIQUE IN WHICH THE ARTIST APPLIES PAINT TO WET PLASTER FOR A MORE PERMANENT lNISH )NTARSIA )NLAID STONE OR WOOD ,OGGIA 2OOFED GALLERY OR BALCONY ,UNETTE 3EMICIRCULAR SPACE IN VAULT OR CEILING .ARTHEX 6ESTIBULE OF A CHURCH .AVE #ENTRAL SPACE IN A CHURCH USUALLY mANKED BY AISLES 0OLYPTYCH 0AINTING ON SEVERAL JOINED PANELS 0ORTICO #OVERED ENTRANCE TO A BUILDING 0REDELLA 3MALL PANEL BELOW THE MAIN SCENES OF AN ALTARPIECE 2ELIQUARY 2ECEPTACLE FOR A SAINTS RELICS USU ALLY BONES /FTEN HIGHLY DECORATED 3TUCCO 0LASTER MADE FROM WATER LIME SAND AND POWDERED MARBLE USED FOR DECORATIVE WORK 4RIPTYCH 0AINTING ON THREE JOINED PANELS 4ROMPE LOEIL 7ORK OF ART THAT DECEIVES THE VIEWER BY TRICKS OF PERSPECTIVE
!MBO ! KIND OF SIMPLE PULPIT POPULAR IN )TAL IAN MEDIEVAL CHURCHES !NlTEATRO !MPHITHEATRE "ADÖA !BBEY "ALDACCHINO ! CANOPY ON COLUMNS USUALLY PLACED OVER THE ALTAR IN A CHURCH "ALUARDO "ASTION "ATTISTERO "APTISTERY "ORGO -EDIEVAL SUBURB OR HAMLET #ALDARIUM 4HE STEAM ROOM OF A 2OMAN BATH #AMPANILE "ELL TOWER SOMETIMES DETACHED USUALLY OF A CHURCH #AMPO 3QUARE #AMPOSANTO #EMETERY #ANTORIA #HOIR LOFT
#APPELLA #HAPEL #ASTELLO #ASTLE #ENACOLO ,AST 3UPPER #HIESA #HURCH #HIOSTRO #LOISTER #IBORIUM 'OBLET FOR COMMUNION WAFERS OR ANOTHER WORD FOR BALDACCHINO #OLLEGIATA #HURCH JUST BELOW THE HIERARCHY OF A CATHEDRAL #ONTRADA !NCIENT QUARTER OF A TOWN #ORTILE 'ALLERIED COURTYARD OR CLOISTER $ECUMANUS -AXIMUS 4HE MAIN STREET OF A 2OMAN TOWN 4HE SECOND CROSS STREET WAS KNOWN AS THE $ECUMANUS )NFERIORE $UOMO#ATTEDRALE #ATHEDRAL
\ 'LOSSARY
!RTISTIC AND ARCHITECTURAL TERMS IN )TALIAN AND ,ATIN
, ! . ' 5!' %
!PSE 3EMICIRCULAR RECESS AT THE ALTAR USUALLY EASTERN END OF A CHURCH !RCHITRAVE 4HE LOWEST PART OF THE ENTABLATURE !TRIUM )NNER COURTYARD "ASILICA /RIGINALLY A 2OMAN ADMINISTRATIVE BUILDING ADAPTED FOR EARLY CHURCHES DISTIN GUISHED BY LACK OF TRANSEPTS "ELVEDERE ! TERRACE OR LOOKOUT POINT #APITAL 4OP OF A COLUMN #HANCEL 0ART OF A CHURCH CONTAINING THE ALTAR #ORNICE 4HE TOP SECTION OF A CLASSICAL FACADE #OSMATI WORK $ECORATIVE MOSAIC WORK ON MARBLE USUALLY HIGHLY COLOURED FOUND IN EARLY #HRISTIAN )TALIAN CHURCHES ESPECIALLY IN 2OME $ERIVES FROM #OSMA A COMMON NAME AMONG FAMILIES OF MARBLE WORKERS AT THE TIME #RYPT "URIAL PLACE IN A CHURCH USUALLY UNDER THE CHOIR #UPOLA $OME #YCLOPEAN WALLS &ORTIlCATIONS BUILT OF HUGE ROUGH STONE BLOCKS $IPTYCH 4WIN PANELLED PAINTING %NTABLATURE 4HE SECTION ABOVE THE CAPITAL ON A CLASSICAL BUILDING BELOW THE CORNICE
&ONTE &OUNTAINHOUSE &ORTEZZA &ORTRESS 'ONFALONI 0AINTED mAGS OR STANDARDS -AESTÌ -ADONNA AND #HILD ENTHRONED -ATRONEUM 7OMENS GALLERY IN EARLY CHURCH -UNICIPIO 4OWN HALL 0ALAZZO 0ALACE MANSION OR BLOCK OF mATS 0ALAZZO DEL 0ODESTÌ -AGISTRATES PALACE 0ALAZZO DEL 0OPOLO0ALAZZO 0UBBLICO0AL AZZO #OMUNALE 4OWN HALL 0ANTOCRATOR !N IMAGE OF #HRIST USUALLY POR TRAYED IN THE ACT OF BLESSING 0IANO .OBILE -AIN mOOR OF A PALACE USUALLY THE lRST UPSTAIRS 0IETÌ )MAGE OF THE 6IRGIN MOURNING THE DEAD #HRIST 0IETRA DURE (ARD OR SEMIPRECIOUS STONES USED FOR DECORATIVE INLAY
0IEVE 0ARISH CHURCH 0INACOTECA 0ICTURE GALLERY 0ORTA 'ATE 0UTTI #HERUBS 2OCCA #ASTLE 3ALA DEI 0RIORI #OUNCIL CHAMBER 3ANTUARIO 3ANCTUARY OR CHANCEL 3GRAFlTO $ECORATIVE TECHNIQUE WHEREBY A LAYER OF PLASTER IS SCRATCHED TO FORM A PAT TERN 3INOPIA 3KETCH FOR A FRESCO APPLIED TO THE WALL 4EATRO 4HEATRE 4EMPIO 4EMPLE 4HERMAE "ATHS USUALLY ELABORATE BUILDINGS IN 2OMAN VILLAS 4ONDO 2OUND PAINTING OR RELIEF 4ORRE 4OWER
3OME COMMON )TALIAN WORDS
, ! . ' 5!' %
\ 'LOSSARY
!LTO 5PPER !UTOSTRADA -OTORWAY "AGNO "ATH OR SPA ALSO 7# "ASSO3CALO ,OWER "IBLIOTECA ,IBRARY #ENTRO STORICO (ISTORIC CENTRE #OMUNE !N ADMINISTRATIVE AREA ALSO THE LOCAL COUNCIL OR TOWN HALL #ORSO !VENUE OR BOULEVARD &ESTA &ESTIVAL HOLIDAY &IUME 2IVER 'IARDINO/RTO "OTANICO "OTANICAL GARDEN 'OLFO 'ULF
,AGO ,AKE ,UNGOMARE 3EAFRONT ROAD OR PROMENADE -ARE 3EA -ERCATO -ARKET /SPEDALE (OSPITAL 0AESE 0LACE AREA OR VILLAGE 0ASSEGGIATA 4HE CUSTOMARY EARLY EVENING WALK SOMETIMES APPLIED TO A PROMENADE 0IANO 0LAIN 1UESTURA -AIN POLICE STATION 3OTTOPASSAGIO 3UBWAY 3PIAGGIA "EACH 3TRADA 2OAD
!CRONYMS !!34 !ZIENDA !UTONOMA DI 3OGGIORNO E 4URISMO !#) !UTOMOBILE #LUB D)TALIA !04 !ZIENDA 0ROVINCIALE DI 4URISMO #!) #LUB !LPINO )TALIANO %04 %NTE 0ROVINCIALE DI 4URISMO PROVINCIAL TOURIST OFlCE SEE ALSO !04 AND !!34
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ISBN 1-84353-676-5
781843 536765
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