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.EVER HAS ONE THROWAWAY MOVIE LINE DONE SO MUCH TO DAMAGE THE REPUTATION OF A WHOLE COUNTRY %VEN NOW DESPITE BEING ONE OF THE MOST VISITED COUNTRIES IN %UROPE 3WITZERLAND REMAINS ONE OF THE LEAST UNDERSTOOD 4HE FACTS ARE THAT UNTIL NATIONAL RECONCILIATION IN 3WITZERLAND WAS THE MOST CONSISTENTLY TURBU LENT WAR TORN AREA OF %UROPE SO MUCH FOR BROTHERLY LOVE AND YET BOTH BEFORE AND AFTER IT FOUND STABILITY IT BROUGHT FORTH LUMINARIES IN THE ARTS AND SCIENCES OF THE CALIBRE OF (ANS (OLBEIN *EAN *ACQUES 2OUSSEAU !LBERT %INSTEIN 0AUL +LEE (ERMANN (ESSE AND !LBERTO 'IACOMETTI 3O MUCH FOR THE CUCKOO CLOCK n A "AVARIAN INVENTION ANYWAY "UT TWO CENTURIES OF TOURISM HAVE LEFT THEIR MARK FACED BY AN EVER INCREASING ONSLAUGHT OF VISITORS THESE DAYS THE 3WISS ARE CONTENT TO ABIDE BY A QUAINT STEREOTYPE OF 3WITZERLAND THATS EASILY PACKAGED AND SOLD n THE FAMILIAR !LPINE IDYLL OF CHEESE AND CHOCOLATE (EIDI AND THE -ATTERHORN n WHILE KEEPING THE BEST BITS FOR THEMSELVES #OME FOR A h,AKES AND -OUNTAINSv PACKAGE OR A WEEK OF SKIING OR A SHORT CITY BREAK AND YOULL GET ALL THE PRISTINE BEAUTY GENTEEL CALM AND WELL OILED EFlCIENCY OF THE 3WITZERLAND THAT THE LOCALS DEEM SUITABLE FOR PUBLIC CONSUMPTION
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4HE OTHER 3WITZERLAND n THE ONE THE 3WISS INHABIT n NEEDS TIME AND PATIENCE TO WINKLE OUT OF ITS SHELL BUT CAN BE AN INlNITELY MORE REWARDING PLACE TO EXPLORE 7ITHIN THIS RUGGED ENVIRONMENT COMMUNITY SPIRIT IS PERHAPS STRONGER THAN ANYWHERE ELSE IN %UROPE 3INCE THE COUNTRY IS NOT AN ETHNIC LINGUISTIC OR RELIGIOUS UNITY IT HAS SURVIVED n SO THE 3WISS ARE FOND OF SAYING n SIMPLY THROUGH THE WILL OF ITS PEOPLE TO RESOLVE THEIR DIFFERENCES 4ODAY A UNIQUE STYLE OF hBOTTOM UPv DEMOCRACY ENSURES REAL POWER STILL RESTS WITH THE PEOPLE WHO SEEM TO VOTE ALMOST MONTHLY ON A SERIES OF REFERENDA AFFECTING ALL ASPECTS OF LIFE FROM LOCAL RECYCLING PROJECTS TO NATIONAL ECONOMIC POLICY 4HE CONSTITUTION DEVOLVES POWER UPWARDS FROM THE PEOPLE TO MUNICIPAL GOVERNMENTS AND UP AGAIN TO THE REGIONS KNOWN AS CANTONS ONLY AS A LAST RESORT GRANTING CERTAIN POWERS TO THE FEDERAL GOVERNMENT 4HIS KIND OF DECENTRALIZED STRUCTURE MEANS THAT THE CANTONS n WHICH ARE IN ESSENCE TINY SELF GOVERNING REPUBLICS WHO HAVE VOLUNTEERED TO JOIN TOGETHER n HAVE MOSTLY HELD ONTO THEIR OWN UNIQUE mAVOURS !LTHOUGH 3WISS PEOPLE VALUE THEIR SHARED 3WISSNESS ABOVE ALL THEY ALSO CHERISH THEIR OWN HOME TOWN IDENTITY AND THEIR DIFFERENCES FROM THEIR NEIGH BOURS 4ENSIONS EXIST BETWEEN THE FOUR LANGUAGE COMMUNITIES AS THEY DO BETWEEN #ATHOLIC AND 0ROTESTANT OR BETWEEN URBAN AND RURAL AREAS WHILE REGIONAL CHARACTERISTICS REMAIN SHARPLY DElNED AND DIVERSE #HALET ©%MMENTAL
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,OCAL PRIDE IS FUELLED BY A RANGE OF TRADITIONAL FOLKLORIC CUSTOMS MOST OF WHICH STEM FROM PAGAN OR MEDIEVAL #HRISTIAN FESTIVALS -OST PROMINENT OF THESE IS CARNIVAL HELD AROUND THE COUNTRY ON OR AROUND -ARDI 'RAS THE LAST DAY BEFORE ,ENT 4HE MOST EXUBERANT CELEBRATIONS HELD IN ,UZERN "ERN AND "ASEL FEATURE BANDS MASKED PARADES STREET DANCING AND SPONTANEOUS PARTY ING THAT BELIE THE STEREOTYPE OF A PLACID UNADVENTUROUS 3WITZERLAND ! HOST OF SMALLER EVENTS lLLS OUT THE CALENDAR AND ITS STILL EASILY POSSIBLE TO STUMBLE ON VILLAGE FESTIVALS THAT HAVE BEEN STAGED BY LOCAL PEOPLE FOR CENTURIES PAST 4HIS SENSE OF CULTURAL CONTINUITY SITS ODDLY WITH THE FACT THAT 3WIT ZERLAND HAS GROWN INTO ONE OF THE WORLDS RICHEST COUNTRIES )TS ECON OMY IS SMALL SCALE BUT THOROUGHLY MODERN TRADITIONAL INDUSTRIES SUCH AS WATCHMAKING AND TEXTILES NOW THRIVE BY FOCUSING CLOSELY ON THE LUXURY END OF THE MARKET AND HAVE CEDED PRIME POSITION TO ENGINEER ING PHARMACEUTICALS AND SERVICE INDUSTRIES 4OURISM HAS BEEN A HIGH EARNER SINCE THE MID NINETEENTH CENTURY WHEN THE !LPS BECAME BOTH A FASHIONABLE DESTINATION FOR WEALTHY TRAVELLERS AND A PRESCRIBED RETREAT FOR SUFFERERS FROM RESPIRATORY DISEASES NEEDING CURATIVE SUNSHINE AND FRESH MOUNTAIN AIR !ND YET THE COUNTRY STILL STANDS ALONE )N THE S 3WITZERLAND WAS SURROUNDED BY HOSTILE !XIS POWERS THESE DAYS ITS ENCIRCLED BY THE hFRIENDLYv %5 3WITZERLANDS DOGGED NEUTRALITY
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RINGS EVER MORE HOLLOW n AND YET FAR FROM EMBRACING A WIDER PERSPECTIVE THE COUNTRY HAS COLLECTIVELY TAKEN A STEP INTO CONSERVATISM #OMMENTATORS ARE NOTING SADLY THAT 3WITZERLAND IS ONLY NOW EMBARKING ON THE KIND OF MULTI ETHNIC SOCIAL INTEGRATION THAT ITS NEIGH BOURS BEGAN IN THE S (AVING TAKEN CENTURIES TO BOLT THEIR COUNTRY TOGETHER FROM DIVERSE ELEMENTS THE 3WISS SEEM INSTINCTIVELY TO RETURN TO THEIR SENSE OF COMMUNITY SPIRIT EXPRESSED MOST TANGIBLY IN THE ORDER AND CLEANLINESS YOULL SEE ON SHOW EVERYWHERE 9ET THE STERILITY SO DECRIED BY 'RAHAM 'REENE WHO WROTE (ARRY ,IMES JIBE ABOUT BROTHERLY LOVE IF IT CHARACTERIZES ANY PART OF THE COUNTRY APPLIES ONLY TO THE GLOSSY NEATLY PACKAGED TOURIST IDYLL OF LAKES AND MOUNTAINS 4HE THREE GREAT 3WISS CITIES OF 'ENEVA :àRICH AND "ASEL ARE CRAMMED WITH WORLD CLASS MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES
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)N :àRICH AND ,AUSANNE THERES A HUMMING ARTS SCENE AND UNDERGROUND CLUB CULTURE THAT FEEDS NIGHTLIFE AS VIBRANT AS ANYTHING YOULL lND IN MUCH LARGER %UROPEAN CITIES 4HE LANDSCAPES ARE DOMINATED BY THE !LPS AND THEIR FOOTHILLS BUT MOUNTAINS ARENT THE ONLY STORY )N THE NORTH AND CENTRE ARE LUSH ROLLING GRASSLANDS EPITOMIZED BY THE VELVETY GREEN HILLS OF THE %MMEN TAL TRADITIONAL DAIRY FARMING COUNTRY 6INEYARDS RISE TIERED ABOVE ,AKE 'ENEVA THE 2HÙNE VALLEY AND THE 2HINE 4HE SOUTHEAST IS CUT THROUGH BY WILD HIGH SIDED VALLEYS LONELY DARK AND THICKLY FORESTED -OST SURPRISINGLY OF ALL BORDERING )TALY IN THE SOUTH YOULL lND SUBTROPICAL -EDITERRANEAN STYLE mOWER GARDENS SUGARLOAF HILLS AND SUNNY PALM FRINGED LAKES 3WITZERLAND MAY BE A SMALL LITTLE REGARDED MID CONTINENTAL COUNTRY WITH A SERIOUS IMAGE PROBLEM BUT IT HAS PLENTY MORE TO OFFER THAN MOST VISITORS SUSPECT
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LTHOUGH 3WITZERLAND IS BEST KNOWN FOR ITS MOUNTAIN SCENERY THERE ARE ANY NUMBER OF HOOKS ON WHICH TO HANG A VISIT WHETHER YOU CHOOSE TO STAY IN ONE CITY OR RESORT EXPLORE A REGION OR TOUR THE WHOLE COUNTRY 'ETTING ABOUT IS EASY WITH AN UNRIVALLED NETWORK OF TRAINS BUSES AND BOATS 9OULL lND PLACES TO STAY AND GET A HEARTY MEAL WHEREVER YOU END UP EVEN IN THE WILDEST OF MOUNTAIN VALLEYS
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5IFDJUJFT 3WITZERLAND HAS NO BIG METROPOLISES ON THE SCALE OF 0ARIS OR ,ONDON 3WISS TOWNS AND CITIES WERE PRESERVED FROM BOMBING IN 7ORLD 7AR )) AND ALL OF THEM RETAIN MEDIEVAL ALLEYS HOUSES AND CHURCHES AT THEIR CENTRES 'ENEVA IS POSITIONED AT THE TIP OF THE IDYLLIC ,AKE 'ENEVA IN THE SOUTH WEST A SHORT DISTANCE FROM THE GRACEFUL LAKESIDE CITY OF ,AUSANNE )N THE NORTHEAST :àRICH TOO IS SET ON ITS OWN LAKE WITHIN STRIKING DISTANCE OF THE PEACEFUL "ODENSEE ,AKE #ONSTANCE 4HE DIMINUTIVE 3WISS CAPITAL "ERN HAS A lNE COBBLED /LD 4OWN WHILE EQUALLY ATTRACTIVE ,UZERN ,UCERNE LIES IN THE CENTRE OF THE COUNTRY ON ITS OWN FAMOUSLY BEAUTIFUL LAKE "ASEL IS LOCATED ON THE 2HINE AT THE POINT WHERE &RANCE 'ERMANY AND 3WITZERLAND
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MEET WHILE AT THE OPPOSITE END OF THE COUNTRY ,UGANO BASKS ON THE SHORES OF AN AZURE LAKE A FEW KILOMETRES FROM THE )TALIAN BORDER !NY OF THESE n OR SMALLER BUT NO LESS CHARACTERFUL REGIONAL TOWNS SUCH AS 3T 'ALLEN 3CHAFFHAUSEN .EUCHÊTEL #HUR &RIBOURG 3ION OR "ELLINZONA n COULD SERVE AS A BASE FOR A RELAXING SHORT BREAK ESPECIALLY DURING THE TEM PERATE SUMMER MONTHS *UNEn3EPT !T OTHER TIMES THEY CAN GET DISTINCTLY CHILLY ALTHOUGH MOST RECEIVE GENEROUS DUMPS OF SNOW IN THE WINTER WHICH COMBINED WITH GLITTERING SUNSHINE AND FROZEN LAKES AND RIVERS PAINTS THE MOST ROMANTIC OF URBAN PICTURES
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4IPPING© !LL© BAR © RESTAURANT© AND© HOTEL© BILLS© ARE© CALCULATED© WITH© kFTEEN© PERCENT© SERVICE© INCLUDED©TIPPING©IS©OFkCIALLY©ABOLISHED©.ONE THELESS © UNLESS© SERVICE© WAS© TRULY© DIABOLICAL © EVERYONE© ROUNDS© THINGS© UP© AT© LEAST© TO© THE© NEAREST©FRANC©IN©RESTAURANTS ©ITS©COMMON©TO© ADD©A©FEW©FRANCS 7ORK©#HALET RENTAL©COMPANIES©NEED©STAFF©TO© COOK©IN©AND©CLEAN©THEIR©HUNDREDS©OF©CHALETS© 1UALIkED© SKISNOWBOARD© INSTRUCTORS© AND© UNQUALIkED© GUIDES© FOR© FOREIGN© TOUR© OPERATORS© ARE©ALWAYS©IN©DEMAND ©AS©ARE©TECHNICIANS©FOR© MAINTAINING© SKI© EQUIPMENT© AND© kTTING© SKIS© AND© BOOTS© IN© RESORT© SHOPS © LARGE© HOTELS© AND© FOR©TOUR©COMPANIES©4O©kND©OUT©MORE ©CONSULT© 8PSLJOHJO4LJ3FTPSUTBY©6ICTORIA©0YBUS
Guide
79
Guide
80
1
Geneva
81-113
2
Lausanne and Lake Geneva
115-161
3
The Arc Jurassien
163-197
4
Basel and around
199-225
5
Bern and around
227-267
6
The Bernese Oberland
269-310
7
Valais
311-356
8
Luzern and Zentralschweiz
357-401
9
Zürich
403-441
10
Ostschweiz and Liechtenstein
443-478
11
Graubünden
479-522
12
Ticino
523-560
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"SSJWBMBOEJOGPSNBUJPO 'ENEVAS AIRPORT WWWGVACH IS KM NORTHWEST AT #OINTRIN 4HE TOURIST INFORMATION DESK DAILY AMnMIDNIGHT IS IN PLAIN VIEW OFFERING FREE MAPS AND HOTEL RESERVATIONS BOARDS WITH COMPLIMENTARY PHONE 4O THE LEFT IS A REVOLVING DOOR GIVING ACCESS INTO THE ADJACENT TRAIN STATION h'ARE #&&v 4HE SIMPLEST ONWARD TRANSPORT IS CITY BUS WHICH DEPARTS FROM THE TOP OF THE ESCALATORS JUST INSIDE THE TRAIN STATIONS REVOLVING DOOR AND CAN DROP YOU lFTEEN MINUTES LATER IN THE CENTRE OF TOWN ON THE 2UE DU -ONT "LANC FOR THE 2IVE $ROITE OR 0LACE "EL !IR FOR THE 2IVE 'AUCHE )F YOU DONT ALREADY HAVE A TRANSPORT PASS YOULL NEED COINS TO BUY A TICKET FROM THE MACHINE BEFORE YOU BOARD VALID FOR UNLIMITED CHANGES EITHER WITHIN ONE HOUR &R OR FROM AM UNTIL MIDNIGHT &R OR FOR HOURS &R 4HE 5NIRESO TRANSPORT COUNTER IN AIRPORT ARRIVALS CAN SELL YOU A CARTE TOURISTIQUE GIVING UNLIMITED TRAVEL AND OTHER DISCOUNTS HR FOR &R !LL TRAINS FROM THE AIRPORT TRAIN STATION STOP AT 'ENEVAS MAIN STATION MIN BEFORE GOING ON DIRECT TO TOWNS ALL OVER THE COUNTRY CUTTING OUT THE NEED TO CHANGE IN 'ENEVA 4AXIS CHARGE AROUND &R INTO THE CITY #ZUSBJO
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DU 2HÙNE n PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARE OF ,ES 2UES "ASSES ONCE A DOCKSIDE SLUM AND NOW 'ENEVAS FANCIEST SHOPPING DISTRICT n STRETCHES A KILOMETRE OR MORE EAST CRAMMED WITH JEWELLERS DEPARTMENT STORES AND DESIGNER BOUTIQUES 4RAFlC STREAMS OVER THE 0ONT DU -ONT "LANC BENEATH THE SPECTACULAR VIEW OF %UROPES HIGHEST MOUNTAIN M WHICH STANDS SOME KM DISTANT !T THE FOOT OF THE BRIDGE IS THE CHARMING LAKESIDE *ARDIN !NGLAIS FOCUSED AROUND A DOUBLE STATUE CELEBRATING 'ENEVAS JOINING THE #ONFEDERATION IN A FOUNTAIN BANDSTAND AND FAMOUS &LOWER #LOCK 4HE *ET D%AU SPOUTS M ALONG THE LAKESHORE SEE BOX ABOVE WHILE 0ARC ,A 'RANGE KM FURTHER EAST ALONG THE LAKESHORE IS A FRAGRANT EXPANSE HOLDING SOME FORTY THOUSAND ROSE BUSHES 7EST OF THE 0ONT DU -ONT "LANC PAST THE BUSTLING 0LACE DU -OLARD WITH ITS MEDIEVAL TOWER IS THE PEDESTRIANIZED 0ONT DES "ERGUES WITH A FOOTPATH MIDWAY ALONG IT LINKING TO A TINY ISLAND THE ¸LE 2OUSSEAU FORMERLY A BASTION AND NOW A MINUSCULE PUBLIC GARDEN GRACED WITH A STATUE OF THE 'ENEVAN PHILOSOPHER 7ITH SUCH CONTROVERSY SURROUNDING 2OUSSEAU EVEN HALF A CENTURY AFTER HIS DEATH THE CITY AUTHORITIES WERE GRUDGING IN HONOURING HIM AND THE STATUE BEHIND ITS SHELTERING CAMOUmAGE OF TREES ORIGINALLY FACED THE EMPTY LAKE n TO ALL INTENTS AND PURPOSES CUT OFF FROM VIEW UNTIL THE 0ONT DU -ONT "LANC WAS BUILT ALONGSIDE IN 1MBDF/FVWFBOEBSPVOE
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!DJACENT IS THE 'RAND 4HÏÊTRE 'ENEVAS OPERA HOUSE AND PRINCI PAL THEATRE STAGE WHICH ONLY JUST CLUNG ONTO ITS FACADE AFTER THE DEVASTAT ING lRE OF WHEN A REHEARSAL OF THE LAST ACT OF 7AGNERS 7ALKYRIE IN WHICH "RUNHILDE IS ENCIR CLED BY mAMES GOT OUT OF HAND &URTHER ROUND THE SQUARE IS THE EQUALLY ORNATE #ONSERVATOIRE DE -USIQUE (EADING SOUTH FROM 0LACE .EUVE THROUGH THE ENORMOUS GATES BRINGS ©5 -UR©DE©LA©2ġFORMATION© YOU INTO THE 0ARC DES "ASTIONS A TRANQUIL PATCH OF GREEN BELOW THE /LD 4OWN RAMPARTS THATS MUCH BELOVED OF STUDENTS THE UNIVERSITY BUILDINGS ARE ALL AROUND !T THE EAST EDGE OF THE PARK IN A DRAMATIC LOCATION PROPPING UP THE /LD 4OWN IS THE -UR DE LA 2ÏFORMATION A M LONG WALL ERECTED IN AND DOMINATED BY FORBIDDING M HIGH STATUES OF THE FOUR MAJOR 'ENEVAN REFORMERS 'UILLAUME &AREL lRST TO PREACH THE 2EFORMA TION IN 'ENEVA *EAN #ALVIN LEADER OF THE 2EFORM MOVEMENT AND SPIRITUAL FATHER OF THE CITY 4HÏODORE DE "ÒZE SUCCESSOR TO #ALVIN AND *OHN +NOX FRIEND OF #ALVIN AND FOUNDER OF 3COTTISH 0RESBYTERIANISM "EHIND RUNS THE MOTTO OF THE CITY AND THE 2EFORMATION 0OST 4ENEBRAS ,UX h!FTER THE $ARKNESS ,IGHTv 6ARIOUS lGURES AND BAS RELIEFS SHOW SCENES FROM 0ROTESTANT HISTORY JUST TO THE RIGHT OF THE MAIN STATUES IS 2OGER 7ILLIAMS A #ALVINIST 0URITAN WHO SAILED ON THE -AYmOWER AND FOUNDED THE CITY OF 0ROVIDENCE 2HODE )SLAND 4HE %NGLISH 0ARLIAMENTS "ILL OF 2IGHTS n WHICH ESTABLISHED A CONSTITUTIONAL MONARCHY UNDER THE 0ROTESTANT KING 7ILLIAM OF /RANGE AND BARRED #ATHOLICS FROM THE THRONE n IS ALSO DEPICTED BUT ,UTHER AND :WINGLI WITH WHOM #ALVIN CAME TO DISAGREE ARE RELEGATED TO PLAIN BLOCKS mANKING THE WALL CARVED ONLY WITH THEIR SURNAMES 5IF0ME5PXO
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'ENEVAS #ATHÏDRALE 3T 0IERRE *UNEn3EPT -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN NOONnPM /CTn-AY -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN NOONnPM IS A MISHMASH OF ARCHITECTURAL ELEMENTS "EGUN IN THE ORIGINAL BUILDING HAS HAD A MULTITUDE OF BITS AND PIECES STUCK ON OVER THE CENTURIES ! SMALL SIDE CHAPEL THE #HAPELLE DES -ACCHABÏES WAS ADDED IN A .EOCLASSICAL PORTICO n MORE REMINISCENT OF A MUSEUM THAN A CHURCH n WAS TACKED ONTO THE WEST FRONT IN FACING ONTO #OUR 3T 0IERRE THE TWO SQUARE TOWERS ABOVE THE EAST END ARE TOTALLY DISSIMILAR AND BETWEEN THEM RISES A CURIOUS GREENISH STEEPLE ADDED IN THE LATE NINETEENTH CENTURY !S YOU ENTER THOUGH CONFUSION IS STRIPPED AWAY AND YOURE LEFT WITH THE CLEAN LINES OF DOUR SEVERELY AUSTERE STONEWORK )N SPURRED ON BY "ERN THE PEOPLE OF 'ENEVA ACCEPTED THE 2EFORMATION AND EMBARKED ON AN ICONOCLASTIC RAMPAGE ALL THE ALTARS IN THE CATHEDRAL AS WELL AS EVERY STATUE AND ICON WERE DESTROYED THE ORGANS WERE SMASHED AND THE PAINTED DECORATION ON THE INTERIOR WALLS WAS WHITEWASHED /NLY THE GREAT PULPIT AND BY CHANCE THE STAINED GLASS OF THE CHANCEL SURVIVED !S YOU WANDER THROUGH THE SOARING INTERIOR THE ARCHI TECTURE AND THE AUSTERITY DRAW YOUR GAZE UPWARDS ALMOST THE ONLY DECORATION TO SURVIVE IS ON THE CAPITALS OF THE NAVES CLUSTERED PILLARS GROTESQUE MONSTERS AND A BARE BREASTED DOUBLE TAILED MERMAID 7HAT IS PURPORTEDLY #ALVINS CHAIR SITS AT THE BACK OF THE CHURCH ON THE LEFT NEAR THE DOOR TO THE .ORTH 4OWER WHICH IS CLIMBABLE FOR THE SPECTACULAR VIEWS &R 9OU SHOULDNT LEAVE WITHOUT SPEND ING TIME IN THE DELIGHTFUL #HAPELLE DES -ACCHABÏES LAST ON THE LEFT BEFORE YOU LEAVE 5SED AS A WAREHOUSE AND LATER AS A LECTURE HALL IT WAS REDEDICATED AS A PLACE OF WORSHIP IN AND IS lLLED WITH LAVISH AND BEAUTIFUL DECORATION DATING FROM THEN #OPIES OF THE ONLY lFTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES TO SURVIVE THE 2EFORMATION n ANGELS PLAYING MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS n ARE ON THE ORNAMENTED VAULTS OF THE CHANCEL WITHIN THE CHAPEL 4HE CATHEDRAL IS BUILT ON THE REMAINS OF OCCUPATION GOING BACK TO AROUND !$ &ROM THEN ON THE HILL ON WHICH THE CATHEDRAL STANDS SAW ALMOST CONTINUOUS BUILDING AND REBUILDING 3INCE ARCHEOLOGISTS HAVE BEEN WORKING TO EXPOSE WALLS ROOMS AND MOSAIC mOORS BENEATH THE CATHEDRAL AND THE HUGE ARCHEOLOGI CAL SITE IS OPEN TO THE PUBLIC 4UESn3UN AMnPM &R PRETTY RARElED STUFF BUT EXCEPTIONALLY WELL PRESENTED SUBTERRANEAN CATWALKS WEAVING AROUND AND OVER THE CRUMBLING REMAINS 7ITH MORE THAN LEVELS OF BUILDING WORK SO FAR DISCOVERED IN ELEVEN ZONES ITS NECESSARILY DIFlCULT TO TWEEZE OUT EXACTLY WHATS GOING ON BUT THE FREE AUDIOGUIDE HELPS /N THE NORTH SIDE OF THE CATHEDRAL AT 2UE DU #LOÔTRE THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY -AISON -ALLET HOUSES THE AIRY -USÏE )NTERNATIONAL DE LA 2ÏFORME 4UESn3UN AMnPM &R 3-0 WWWMUSEE REFORMECH DEDICATED TO EXPLORING THE IDEAS BEHIND THE 2EFORMATION IN LIVELY ENGAGING DISPLAYS OF IMAGES AND TEXT FROM POLEMICS AND THEOLOGICAL DEBATES TO MUSIC THE TRADES PRACTISED BY (UGUENOT REFUGEES AND THE RIGHTS OF WOMEN IN 0ROTESTANTISM .BJTPO5BWFM
&ROM THE CATHEDRAL PORTICO AN ALLEY LEADS YOU ON TO THE 2UE DU 0UITS 3T 0IERRE ! FEW METRES LEFT AT NO IS THE DISTINCTIVE GREY BLUE SANDSTONE FACADE n ETCHED WITH TROMPE LOEIL MORTAR LINES n OF 'ENEVAS OLDEST HOUSE NOW THE -AISON
)TS A FEW STEPS WEST FROM THE -AISON 4AVEL TO A COBBLED CROSSROADS 4O THE RIGHT IS 'RAND 2UE BIRTHPLACE OF 2OUSSEAU AND PARALLEL TO IT 2UE DES 'RANGES NAMED h3TREET OF "ARNSv IN RESPONSE TO THE HUGE MANSIONS BUILT IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY TO HOUSE 'ENEVAS WEALTHIEST RESIDENTS ,OOMING OVER THE JUNCTION IS THE (ÙTEL DE 6ILLE RANGED AROUND AN INTERNAL ARCADED COURTYARD FROM WHERE ITS EASY TO SPOT THE DIFFERENT STYLES OF THE BUILDING n GOING COUN TERCLOCKWISE THE SIXTEENTH SEVENTEENTH AND EIGHTEENTH CENTURIES !HEAD IS THE !LABAMA 2OOM WHERE THE 'ENEVA #ONVENTION ON THE HUMANITARIAN RULES OF WAR WAS SIGNED BY SIXTEEN COUNTRIES IN AND WHERE IN CONmICT BETWEEN TWO STATES WAS SOLVED IN A NEUTRAL STATE FOR THE lRST TIME WHEN "RITAIN AND THE 53 SETTLED THEIR DIFFERENCES OVER "RITISH SUPPORT FOR THE #ONFEDERACY DURING THE #IVIL 7AR 4HE ,EAGUE OF .ATIONS ALSO GATHERED HERE FOR THE lRST TIME IN 9OU CAN WORK YOUR WAY UP THE INTERNAL RAMP TO THE TOP n FEEL ING LIKE AN %SCHER DRAWING COME TO LIFE n BUT ALL THE DOORS ARE lRMLY LOCKED "EHIND THE BUILDING IS THE LOVELY 0ROMENADE DE LA 4REILLE WITH A VIEW OVER THE CITY FRAMED BY CHESTNUT TREES AND THE LONGEST WOODEN BENCH IN THE WORLD AT M 4HE LAST TREE ON THE LEFT BENT FORWARD IS THE OFlCIAL TREE OF 'ENEVA TRADITION HAS IT THAT THE CHIEF CITY COUNCILLOR MUST RECORD THE DAY ITS lRST BUD BLOSSOMS AS BEING THE lRST DAY OF SPRING ! BOARD OF DATES HAS BEEN KEPT IN THE 4OWN (ALL SINCE AND IS ADDED TO ANNUALLY "ACK ALONG THE 2UE DU 0UITS 3T 0IERRE YOULL COME TO A SET OF STAIRS LEAD ING DOWN TOWARDS THE 2UES "ASSES /FF TO THE LEFT IS 2UE #ALVIN WITH AT NO THE -USÏE "ARBIER -àLLER DAILY AMnPM &R 3-0 WWWBARBIER
MUELLERCH HOUSING A BEAUTIFULLY DISPLAYED COLLECTION OF NON %UROPEAN SCULPTURE AND ARTWORK .OTES ARE COPIOUS GUIDING YOU FROM A ROOM lLLED WITH ANTIQUE !FRICAN GOLD TO HUGE CARVED MASKS FROM /CEANIA AND MORE
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4AVEL MUSEUM 4UESn3UN AMnPM FREE WWWVILLE GECHMUSINFO "UILT BY THE 4AVEL FAMILY IN THE TWELFTH CENTURY THE HOUSE WAS RENOVATED AFTER A lRE IN AND MAINTAINED AFTER THE 4AVEL LINE DIED OUT BY VARIOUS NOBLE FAMILIES UNTIL IT WAS BOUGHT BY THE CITY IN TO DISPLAY ITEMS FROM THE HISTORY AND URBAN LIFE OF 'ENEVA 4HE CELLARS ARE THE OLDEST PART OF THE HOUSE AND THEY AND THE THREE UPPER mOORS ARE lLLED WITH DIVERTING ITEMS n MASSIVE CARVED DOORS PAINTED INN SIGNS AND A COMPLETE TWELVE ROOM APARTMENT SHOWING EVERYDAY LIFE IN THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY 4HE HIGHLIGHT OF THE MUSEUM IS IN THE ATTIC A GIANT RELIEF MAP OF 'ENEVA DATING FROM SHOWING THE CITY COMPLETE WITH ITS FORTIlCATIONS BEFORE THE 0ONT DU -ONT "LANC OR THE RAILWAY HAD BEEN BUILT
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! FEW METRES EAST OF THE /LD 4OWN IS THE -USÏE D!RT ET D(ISTOIRE 2UE #HARLES 'ALLAND 4UESn3UN AMnPM FREE WWWVILLE GECHMUSINFO 'ENEVAS MOST IMPORTANT MUSEUM AND 3WITZERLANDS UNOFlCIAL NATIONAL COLLEC TION )TS A GIGANTIC PLACE THAT COVERS IN ENCYCLOPEDIC FASHION THE WHOLE SWEEP OF 7ESTERN CULTURE FROM ANTIQUITY TO THE PRESENT TO DO IT JUSTICE WOULD TAKE DAYS BUT YOU COULD SPEND A WORTHWHILE FEW HOURS ABSORBING THE DIFFERENT AREAS &OR THE MARVELLOUS lNE ART COLLECTION HEAD UP THE GRAND STAIRCASE 7HAT CONFRONTS YOU AT THE TOP IS PERHAPS THE HIGHLIGHT OF THE MUSEUM A HEART STOPPINGLY ROMANTIC SCULPTURE IN MARBLE OF 6ENUS AND !DONIS STANDING ALONE AND LIT BY A SKYLIGHT !NTONIO #ANOVA THE PRE EMINENT .EOCLASSICAL SCULPTOR HAS GIVEN 6ENUS THE lNGERS OF A PIANIST !LSO AT THE HEAD OF THE STAIRS ARE TWO 2ODINS 4HE 4HINKER AND 4HE 4RAGIC -USE 4HE COLLECTION BEGINS IN (ALL TO THE RIGHT OF 6ENUS AND !DONIS AND ALTHOUGH IT MORE OR LESS KEEPS A CHRONOLOGICAL
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THREAD DONT BE SURPRISED IF YOU COME ACROSS PHOTOGRAPHY CONCRETE INSTALLATIONS OR EVEN VIDEO ART SCATTERED IN AMONGST THE PAINTING )N ROOM YOULL lND +ONRAD 7ITZS FAMOUS ALTARPIECE MADE FOR THE CATHEDRAL IN WHICH SHOWS #HRIST AND THE lSHERMAN TRANSPOSED ONTO ,AKE 'ENEVA !S YOU WORK YOUR WAY AROUND THE PERIMETER ROOMS 2EMBRANDT AND OTHER $UTCH AND &LEMISH ARTISTS ARE IN ROOM NINETEENTH CENTURY 3WISS IN n WHILE THE INNER RING OF SMALLER ROOMS FEATURES WORK BY THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY 'ENEVOIS PAINTER ,IOTARD IN n 0ERIMETER ROOMS n ARE DEVOTED TO 6ALLOTTON 0ISSARRO #ÏZANNE 2ENOIR AND -ODIGLIANI WITH SOME STRIKING (ODLERS ON THE INNER RING INCLUDING A MYSTICAL ,AC DE 4HOUNE IN ROOM "ACK DOWNSTAIRS THE APPLIED ARTS COLLECTION IS ON THE MEZZANINE GALLERY AND THE GROUND mOOR A WEALTH OF SILVERWARE PEWTER ARMOUR AND COSTUME 4HE #ARTIGNY ROOM WITH WOOD PANELLING BY THE 'ENEVOIS CRAFTSMAN *EAN *AQUET SHOWS ELEGANT ,OUIS 86 AND 86) FURNITURE 4HE GROUND mOOR ALSO OFTEN FEATURES TEMPORARY EXHIBITS ADMISSION CHARGED 4HE LOWER mOOR IS GIVEN OVER TO THE MASSIVE ARCHEOLOGICAL COLLECTION 4URN RIGHT FOR THE %GYPTIAN ROOMS INCLUDING SECTIONS FROM THE "OOK OF THE $EAD A COMPLETE NINTH CENTURY "# MUMMY AND A BEAUTIFUL GRANITE STATUE OF THE GODDESS 3EKHMET WITH THE BODY OF A WOMAN AND THE HEAD OF A LIONESS FROM THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY "# 4HERES ALSO AN EXCELLENT DISPLAY ON HIEROGLYPHICS 4HE HALLS DEVOTED TO !NCIENT 'REECE AND 2OME ARE NO LESS IMPRESSIVE lLLED WITH STATUARY GLASSWARE AND GOOD HISTORICAL NOTES !LSO DOWN HERE ARE A GIFT SHOP AND SMALL CAFÏ 4PVUIBOEXFTUPGUIF0ME5PXO
7ITHIN SIGHT OF THE -USÏE D!RT ON THE HIGH GROUND OPPOSITE RISE THE GILDED ONION DOMES OF THE 2USSIAN #HURCH #ATHÏDRALE DE L%XALTATION DE LA 3AINTE #ROIX OPEN SPORADICALLY BUILT IN ON THE REMAINS OF A SIXTEENTH CENTURY "ENEDICTINE PRIORY WITH MONEY DONATED BY 'RAND $UCHESS !NNA &EODOROVNA #ONSTANCIA AUNT OF 1UEEN 6ICTORIA AND A LONGTIME 'ENEVA RESIDENT ! GRID LIKE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF LONG STRAIGHT BOULEVARDS LINED WITH SOLID TOWN HOUSES GREW UP AROUND THE CHURCH AT THE END OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY AND THE AREA KNOWN AS ,ES 4RANCHÏES IS STILL GRAND AND QUIET TODAY &IVE MINUTES FROM THE CHURCH AT 2UE -UNIER 2OMILLY IS THE #OLLECTIONS "AUR 4UESn3UN nPM &R WWWCOLLECTIONS BAURCH THE COUNTRYS PREMIER COLLECTION OF %AST !SIAN ART 3TART AT THE TOP mOOR WITH A BRIGHTLY LIT DISPLAY OF NINETEENTH CENTURY *APANESE CERAMICS /NE mOOR DOWN IS THE #HINESE COLLECTION WITH DELICATELY LUMINESCENT YELLOW 9ONGZHANG CERAMICS IN ROOM 4HE GROUND mOOR HAS OLDER #HINESE WORK INCLUDING SIMPLE WHITE BOWLS FROM THE NINTH CENTURY A LITTLE INTERIOR GARDEN AND FOUNTAIN IN ROOM SURROUNDED BY -ING PORCELAIN AND OTHER ROOMS WITH SPECTACULAR 1ING JADE &IVE MINUTES WALK NORTHWEST AT 4ERRASSE 3T 6ICTOR THE GRAND 0ETIT 0ALAIS FORMERLY AN ART MUSEUM DEVOTED TO &RENCH MODERNISM IS CURRENTLY CLOSED INDElNITELY 1MBJOQBMBJT
4HE BROAD "OULEVARD DES 0HILOSOPHES TRACES A PATH AROUND THE 0ARC DES "ASTIONS AND THE UNIVERSITY DISTRICT TO THE 2OND 0OINT DE 0LAINPALAIS ON THE EASTERN TIP OF A DIAMOND OF OPEN SPACE KNOWN AS THE 0LAINE DE 0LAINPALAIS )F 'ENEVA STILL HAS A VILLAGE GREEN OR A MARKETPLACE THIS IS IT -OST DAYS SEE A MARKET OF ONE KIND OR ANOTHER WHETHER FRUIT AND VEG OR THE FAMOUS 7EDNESDAY AND 3ATURDAY mEA MARKETS AND THE SPACE IS ALWAYS BUSTLING WITH DOG WALKERS BOOKWORMS OR SKATEBOARDERS *UST OFF THE WESTERN ANGLE OF THE DIAMOND IS -!-#/ THE -USÏE D!RT -ODERNE ET #ONTEMPORAIN HOUSED IN AN OLD INDUSTRIAL SPACE AT 2UE DES
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6IEUX 'RENADIERS 4UESn&RI NOONnPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM &R 3-0 FREE ON ST 3UN OF MONTH WWWMAMCOCH 4HE MUSEUM HAS KEPT THE FORMER FACTORYS CONCRETE mOORS AND OVERHEAD STRIP LIGHTING TO DISPLAY ITS OFTEN STARK BUT HIGH QUALITY COLLECTION COVERING INSTALLATIONS VIDEO ART PHOTOGRAPHS SCULPTURES AND PAINTING PRODUCED SINCE THE S .EXT DOOR THE #ENTRE D!RT #ONTEMPORAIN 4UESn3UN AMnPM &R 3-0 WWWCENTRECH ALSO STAGES TEMPORARY SHOWS OF YOUNG 3WISS ARTISTS WHILE DOWN THE ROAD AT NO IS THE 0ATEK 0HILIPPE -USEUM 4UESn&RI nPM 3AT AMnPM &R 3-0 WWWPATEKMUSEUMCOM A lNE HOROLOGICAL COLLECTION 4WO OTHER MUSEUMS NEARBY ARE THE -USÏE *EAN 4UA 2UE DES "AINS 7EDn3UN nPM &R SHOWCASING VINTAGE CARS AND THE -USÏE D%THNOGRAPHIE "D #ARL 6OGT 4UESn3UN AMnPM FREE WITH A VAST COLLECTION ESPECIALLY STRONG ON WEAPONS AND ART FROM %DO PERIOD *APAN &ROM THE 0LACE DU #IRQUE AT 0LAINPALAIS NORTHERN TIP "OULEVARD DE 3T 'EORGES HEADS DUE WEST THROUGH ONE OF 'ENEVAS MOST ENGAGING YOUNG NEIGHBOURHOODS ! SHORT WAY ALONG A BRICK WALL CONCEALS THE #IMITIÒRE DE 0LAINPALAIS PERMA NENT HOME TO AMONG OTHERS 3IR (UMPHRY $AVY WHO INVENTED THE MINERS LAMP 'RAVESTONE CLOSE TO THE WALL AND THE OBJECT OF MUCH RECENT CARE IS MARKED ONLY WITH A FAINT h*#v THIS IS PRESUMED TO BE THE LAST RESTING PLACE OF #ALVIN "EHIND 2UE DE LA #OULOUVRENIÒRE FEEDS INTO THE ATMOSPHERIC 0LACE DES 6OLONTAIRES WITH A SCATTERING OF CAFÏS AND THE ,5SINE SQUAT 'ENEVAS BIGGEST ALTERNATIVE ARTS VENUE WITH GALLERIES A THEATRE SPACE MUSIC VENUE CAFÏ AND MORE 4HE RIVERFRONT 1UAI DES &ORCES -OTRICES ALSO WITH CAFÏS AND CLUBS IS DOMINATED BY THE ARCHED WINDOWS OF THE "ÊTIMENTS DES &ORCES -OTRICES WHICH ONCE HOUSED GIGANTIC HYDRAULIC TURBINES SUPPLYING THE CITY WITH WATER AND WHICH HAS NOW BEEN CONVERTED INTO A MASSIVE SPACE FOR OPERA AND DRAMA &URTHER ALONG "OULEVARD DE 3T 'EORGES IS THE RUNDOWN DISTRICT OF *ONCTION AT THE POINT WHERE THE !RVE MEETS THE 2HÙNE RESIDENTS HAVE A TRADITION IN THE TORRID DAYS OF SUMMER OF mINGING THEMSELVES OFF THE 0ONT DE 3OUS 4ERRE FOR A REFRESHING mOAT DOWNSTREAM IN THE COOL WATER
$BSPVHF 3OME KM SOUTH OF THE CITY CENTRE THE SUBURB OF #AROUGE WWW CAROUGECH IS A QUITE DIFFERENT EXPE RIENCE FROM 'ENEVA PROPER 0RACTICALLY DESERTED UNTIL THE TOWNSHIP n THEN AS NOW BEYOND THE CITY LIMITS n WAS GRANTED TO 6ICTOR !MIDEUS +ING OF 3ARDINIA RULING FROM 4URIN 4HE KING ENVISIONED #AROUGE AS A TRADING COMPETITOR TO 'ENEVA AND TURNED IT INTO A REFUGE FOR #ATHOLICS 0ROTESTANTS UNABLE TO STOMACH 'ENEVAS PURITANI CAL WAYS AND UNIQUELY IN %UROPE FOR THE TIME EVEN *EWS 4URINESE ARCHI TECTS DEVELOPED A CHESSBOARD DESIGN OF CRISSCROSSING STREETS PLANTED WITH TREES AND LOW HOUSES WITH WOODEN -EDITERRANEAN STYLE GALLERIES LOOKING INTO INTERNAL GARDENS "ETWEEN
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'ENEVAS 2IVE $ROITE 2IGHT "ANK ON THE NORTH SIDE OF THE 2HÙNE FEATURES ONLY A COUPLE OF MODERATELY INTERESTING NEIGH BOURHOODS n THE 0ÊQUIS FOR CAFÏ LIFE AND ,ES 'ROTTES FOR ARCHITECTURE 2UE DU -ONT "LANC IS 'ENEVAS LANDMARK STREET A BROAD BOULEVARD LINED WITH AIRLINE OFlCES AND SOUVENIR SHOPS THAT SLOPES DOWN THE HILL FROM THE TRAIN STATION !S WITH MOST SUCH STREETS THOUGH ITS WHAT HAPPENS EITHER SIDE THATS OF GREATEST INTEREST 4HE 3T 'ERVAIS QUARTER JUST WEST WAS FORMERLY THE PRESERVE OF WATCHMAKERS JEWELLERS ENGRAVERS AND GOLDSMITHS 4HESE DAYS IT HAS LOST VIRTUALLY ALL ITS CHARACTER TO TRAFlC AND MODERN COMMERCE ALTHOUGH ITS OLD 'OTHIC CHURCH SURVIVES ON 2UE DU 4EMPLE ON THE SAME STREET AS THE #ENTRE POUR L)MAGE #ONTEMPORAINE AT NO 4UESn3UN NOONnPM WWWCENTREIMAGECH WITH TEMPORARY SHOWS OFTEN DEVOTED TO CONTEM PORARY VIDEO ART -FT1ÉRVJTBOEBSPVOE
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9OU ENTER THROUGH A TRENCH IN THE HILLSIDE OPPOSITE THE 5. EMERGING INTO AN ENCLOSED GLASS COURTYARD SURROUNDED BY REmECTED IMAGES OF YOURSELF BESIDE A GROUP OF STONE lGURES BOUND AND BLINDFOLDED REPRESENTING THE CONTINUAL WORLDWIDE VIOLATION OF HUMAN RIGHTS )NSIDE ABOVE THE TICKET DESK IS A QUOTATION IN &RENCH FROM $OSTOEVSKY h%VERYONE IS RESPONSIBLE TO EVERYONE ELSE FOR EVERYTHINGv 4HE MUSEUMS AUDIOGUIDE &R TAKES YOU THROUGH THE ELEVEN UNDEMARCATED SECTIONS ALL PACKED INTO A SMALL mOOR AREA WHICH PIECE TOGETHER IN CHRONOLOGICAL ORDER THE HISTORY OF KINDNESS FROM THE 'OOD 3AMARITAN AND 3ALADIN TO THE EXPERIENCES OF NINETEENTH CENTURY 'ENEVAN BUSINESSMAN (ENRI $UNANT WHICH PROMPTED HIM TO FOUND THE 2ED #ROSS SEE BOX P )N ONE AREA OF THE MUSEUM ARE RANGED AISLE AFTER AISLE OF RECORD CARDS FROM 7ORLD 7AR ) n AN ASTONISHING SEVEN MILLION OF THEM n DETAILING PRISONERS PARTICULARS IN ORDER THAT THEY COULD BE TRACED AND REUNITED WITH THEIR FAMILIES )N ANOTHER IS A RECONSTRUCTED CELL M BY M WHICH AN )#2# DELEGATE REPORTED HOUSED SEVENTEEN PRISONERS FOOTPRINTS ON THE CELL mOOR ONLY GO SOME WAY TOWARDS HELPING IMAGINE THE CONDITIONS !LSO MEMORABLE IS THE EYE OPENING 7ALL OF 4IME AN INGENIOUS REPRESENTA TION OF THOSE WARS AND NATURAL DISASTERS WHICH HAVE KILLED MORE THAN PEOPLE YEAR BY YEAR SINCE THE 2ED #ROSSS FOUNDATION AS YOU REACH THE SECOND HALF OF THE LAST CENTURY THE DIZZYINGLY LONG LISTS OF WARS AROUND THE WORLD TELL THEIR OWN SOMBRE STORY ! lNAL NOTE OF ACHIEVEMENT DESPITE ITS SKILL AND ARTISTRY THE MUSEUMS CONSTRUCTION DIDNT USE A PENNY OF 2ED #ROSS FUNDS RELYING SOLELY ON OUTSIDE DONORS 1BMBJTEFT/BUJPOT
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*UST DOWN THE HILL FROM THE 0ALAIS DES .ATIONS IN A DISTINCTIVE S .EO "AROQUE MANSION SET IN THE SAME PARK IS THE -USÏE !RIANA -ON 7EDn3UN AMnPM FREE WWWVILLE GECHMUSINFO DEVOTED TO SEVEN CENTURIES OF GLASS AND CERAMICS FROM %UROPE AND THE %AST 5NLESS YOURE A FAN THOUGH THE BUILDING n SEMICIRCULAR GALLERIES OVERLOOKING AN INTERNAL ATRIUM n IS LIKELY TO BE AT LEAST AS INSPIRING AS ITS CONTENTS (IGHLIGHTS OF THE LAVISH COLLECTION INCLUDE %UROPEAN FAÕENCE AND PORCELAIN FROM THE SIXTEENTH TO EIGHTEENTH CENTURIES THE EARTH TONES OF 3PANISH WARE CONTRASTING WITH DEEP CREAMY &RENCH COLOURS AND LIGHT )TALIAN PASTELS 4HERE ARE PLENTY OF %NGLISH NOTES TO MUG UP ON AS YOU GO AROUND
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$BGÏTBOEDBGÏCBST !LMOST EVERY CORNER HAS ITS CAFÏ AND THE FOLLOWING LIST IS HIGHLY SELECTIVE SERVING AS MUCH TO GIVE POINTERS AS TO WHAT TO EXPECT IN EACH NEIGHBOURHOOD AS TO RECOMMEND THESE PARTICULAR ESTABLISHMENTS OVER OTHERS 4HE /LD 4OWNS 0LACE DU "OURG DE &OUR FOR INSTANCE IS LINED WITH BUSY TERRACE CAFÏS OFFERING COFFEES APÏROS AND SNACKS TO FUEL HOURS OF READING AND PEOPLE WATCHING AND THERES LITTLE POINT PICKING ONE OUT TO RECOMMEND 7HEREVER YOU END UP YOULL
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ACTIVELY VALUE AND SUPPORT THE PLEASURE PRINCIPLE &OR DECADES THE MUNICIPALITY HAS SUBSIDIZED ART AND CULTURE OF ALL SHADES RESULTING IN A RANGE OF FESTIVALS LIVE MUSIC CLUBS THEATRE OPERA AND DANCE TO RIVAL A MORE SLUGGISH METROPOLIS TEN TIMES BIGGER !IDING THE DYNAMISM A DElNING FEATURE OF THE CITY IS ITS INTERNATIONAL POPULATION OF STUDENTS ATTRACTED TO THE PRESTIGIOUS 5NIVERSITY OF ,AUSANNE 3WITZERLANDS BIGGEST AND THE &RENCH LANGUAGE ARM OF THE &EDERAL )NSTITUTE OF 4ECHNOLOGY (UNDREDS OF LANGUAGE SCHOOLS AND PRIVATE ACADEMIES ENHANCE THE CITYS REPUTATION FOR LEARNING ALONG WITH THE WORLD FAMOUS ³COLE (OTELIÒRE TRAINING GROUND FOR TOP CHEFS AND HOTEL STAFF 4HIS YOUTHFUL OUTGOING SPIRIT AND THE CITYS HILLY ASPECT HAVE ALSO GIVEN ,AUSANNE A NEW ROLE AS %UROPEAN BLADING AND SKATEBOARDING CAPITAL WHEN THE SUN SHINES EVERY PUBLIC SPACE HISSES WITH THE SPINNING OF TINY WHEELS AND THE /UCHY WATERFRONT IN SUMMER ECHOES TO THE CLACK OF SKATEBOARDS "LADERS HAVE BEEN CLOCKED DOING KPH ON THE CITYS HILLS 4HE )NTERNATIONAL /LYMPIC #OMMITTEE HAS BEEN HEADQUARTERED IN ,AUSANNE SINCE AND HAS ATTRACTED TO THE CITY AN ARRAY OF WORLD GOVERNING BODIES IN SPORTS RANGING FROM CHESS TO VOLLEYBALL 4HIS HAS LENT THE CITY ITS MARKETING TAG OF h/LYMPIC #APITALv n A MEANINGLESS TITLE WHICH YOULL SEE USED EVERYWHERE TO PLUG THE CITYS RATHER VAPID /LYMPIC -USEUM 4PNFIJTUPSZ
6IDY ON THE WATERFRONT IMMEDIATELY WEST OF /UCHY WAS A FOCUS OF SETTLEMENT FROM .EOLITHIC TIMES ONWARDS AND WAS WHERE THE 2OMANS FOUNDED THE SMALL TOWN OF ,OUSONNA IN "# ,OUSONNA mOURISHED BUT DURING TROUBLED TIMES IN THE FOURTH CENTURY THE LAKEFRONT SITE WAS ABANDONED FOR A BETTER DEFENDED SPOT ON THE HEIGHTS ABOVE TODAY THE SITE OF THE /LD 4OWN )N "ISHOP -ARIUS TRANSFERRED HIS BISHOPRIC FROM !VENCHES TO ,AUSANNE CONlRMING THE CITYS RISING INmUENCE 3UCCEEDING BISHOPS GATHERED POWER EVEN BECOMING IMPE RIAL PRINCES IN UNTIL BY THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY THEY WERE OVERSEEING ONE OF THE LARGEST CITIES IN THE REGION WITH SOME NINE THOUSAND INHABITANTS "OTH 0OPE 'REGORY 8 AND %MPEROR 2UDOLF OF (ABSBURG CONSIDERED THE CONSECRA TION OF ,AUSANNES FABULOUS CATHEDRAL IN IMPORTANT ENOUGH TO GRACE THE CEREMONY WITH THEIR PRESENCE $URING THE FOURTEENTH AND lFTEENTH CENTURIES ,AUSANNE WAS BUFFETED BY A SERIES OF lRES AND PLAGUE EPIDEMICS AS WELL AS INCREASING SOCIAL DISORDER STEM MING FROM THE DIVISION BETWEEN THE OPULENT LIFESTYLE OF THE BISHOPS IN THEIR LOFTY PALACE AND THE POVERTY OF THE PEOPLE IN THE 6ILLE "ASSE OR LOWER TOWN )N THE ,AUSANNOIS MADE A PACT OF MUTUAL MILITARY ASSISTANCE WITH "ERN AND &RIBOURG ELEVEN YEARS LATER WHEN THE "ERNESE ARMY lRED WITH THE ZEAL OF THE 2EFORMATION SWEPT DOWN TOWARDS ,AKE 'ENEVA THE ,AUSANNOIS WERE lNALLY ABLE TO EJECT THE BISHOPS 4HEIR INDEPENDENCE WAS SHORT LIVED THOUGH SINCE NO SOONER HAD THE BISHOPS DEPARTED FOUNDING A NEW SEE IN #ATHOLIC &RIBOURG THAN THE "ERNESE INSTALLED BAILIFFS OF THEIR OWN AND REDUCED ,AUSANNE TO THE STATUS OF A SUBJECT CITY ,AUSANNES UNIVERSITY WAS FOUNDED IN AS THE lRST &RENCH LANGUAGE CENTRE OF 0ROTESTANT THEOLOGY BUT THE CITY REMAINED A "ERNESE RUN BACKWATER UNTIL IN .APOLEON HIVED #ANTON 6AUD AWAY FROM "ERN AND GRANTED ,AUSANNE THE STATUS OF 6AUDOIS CAPITAL 3HORTLY AFTER THE MUNICIPALITY lLLED IN THE RIVERS &LON AND ,OUVE WHICH WOUND BETWEEN THE CITYS SUMMITS AND THREW GRAND ARCHING BRIDGES OVER THE DITCHES TO LINK DISPARATE NEIGHBOURHOODS FOR THE lRST TIME !RTISTS ROMANTICS AND ADVENTURERS SOON mOCKED TO ,AUSANNE AND THE ADJACENT COMMUNE LIBRE ET INDÏPENDANTE OF /UCHY TURNING THE PLACE INTO A RATHER GENTEEL
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,AUSANNES TOPOGRAPHY LOOKS CONFUSING ON A MAP BUT ISNT TOO HARD TO GRASP !T THE TOP IS THE /LD 4OWN IN THE MIDDLE ARE THE TRAIN STATION AND COMMERCIAL DISTRICTS AND AT THE BOTTOM IS THE ONE TIME lSHING VILLAGE OF /UCHY NOW PRIME TERRITORY FOR WATERFRONT STROLLING AND CAFÏ LOUNGING "UT THE GRADIENTS BETWEEN THEM ALL ARE NO JOKE -ONT *ORAT ONLY KM NORTHEAST OF THE CITY RISES TO M JUST NORTH OF THE /LD 4OWN IS A VIEWPOINT AT M THE CENTRAL DISTRICTS ARE RANGED AROUND M WHILE RESIDENTIAL NEIGHBOURHOODS SLIDE ON DOWN FOR ANOTHER KILOMETRE TO THE LAKESHORE AT M &OCUS OF THE CITY CENTRE IS 0LACE 3T &RAN OIS HUB OF BUS ROUTES AND HEART OF THE SHOPPING DISTRICT 'ILT EDGED 2UE DE "OURG ENTICES SHOPPERS UPHILL FROM 3T &RAN OIS WHILE BESIDE IT 2UE 3T &RAN OIS DROPS DOWN NORTH INTO THE VALLEY AND UP THE OTHER SIDE TO THE COBBLED 0LACE DE LA 0ALUD AN ANCIENT FOUNTAINED SQUARE PLUM IN THE HEART OF THE /LD 4OWN AND mANKED BY THE ARCADES OF THE 2ENAISSANCE TOWN HALL 4HE ELEGANT 'OTHIC TURRETS OF THE CATHEDRAL
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STOP ON THE 'RAND 4OUR OF %UROPE "Y THE TURN OF THE CENTURY ,AUSANNE WAS HOSTING A THRIVING COMMUNITY OF EXPATS n INCLUDING FORTY RETIRED "RITISH COLO NELS n AND BOASTED %NGLISH CHURCHES %NGLISH BOARDING SCHOOLS A CRICKET PITCH A FOOTBALL lELD AND AN %NGLISH LIBRARY SERVING AFTERNOON TEA ,AUSANNE HAD A QUIET TWENTIETH CENTURY mOURISHING COMMERCIALLY SOCIALLY AND CULTURALLY WHILE CONTENT TO REMAIN IN THE SHADOW OF ITS OVER ILLUSTRIOUS SOBER AND CONSIDERABLY LESS DESIRABLE NEIGHBOUR 'ENEVA
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RISE LOFTILY ABOVE WHILE THE FOURSQUARE CHÊTEAU STANDS EVEN FURTHER UP AT THE HIGHEST AND MOST NORTHERLY TIP OF THE /LD 4OWN "EYOND RISE FORESTS AND OPEN PARKLAND .ORTHWEST OF 3T &RAN OIS THE 'RAND 0ONT SOARS OVER THE WAREHOUSE DISTRICT OF ,E &LON HOTBED OF ,AUSANNES BURGEONING CLUB CULTURE TO 0LACE "EL !IR AND ON TO 0LACE #HAUDERON AT THE HEAD OF THE 0ONT #HAUDERON WHICH ALSO RISES ABOVE ,E &LON 4HE STEEP SLOPE SOUTH OF 3T &RAN OIS ENDS AT THE MAIN TRAIN STATION SOUTH OF WHICH A SUCCESSION OF OPULENT RESIDENTIAL DISTRICTS TRICKLE DOWN TO 0LACE DE LA .AVIGATION ON THE /UCHY WATERFRONT ,AKESIDE PROMENADES LEAD IN BOTH DIRECTIONS FROM /UCHY EAST TO THE VILLAGES OF 0ULLY AND ,UTRY WEST TO THE PARKLAND OF 6IDY AND THE LAKESIDE CAMPUSES OF THE UNIVERSITY AND ADJACENT &EDERAL )NSTITUTE OF 4ECHNOLOGY AT $ORIGNY
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,AUSANNES IMPOSING TRAIN STATION IS SERVED BY TRAINS FROM ALL CORNERS OF 3WITZERLAND AS WELL AS 4'6S FROM 0ARIS "OATS DOCK AT THE #'. JETTY IN /UCHY MORE OR LESS OPPOSITE WHICH IS A METRO STATION WITH REGULAR SHUTTLES ON LINE - CLIMBING THE STEEP HILL TO THE TRAIN STATION h'ARE #&&v AND FURTHER UP TO &LON !LTERNATIVELY BUS DIRECTION $ÏSERT SNAKES UP FROM THE /UCHY WATERFRONT TO 0LACE 3T &RAN OIS THEN HEADS NORTHWEST OVER THE 'RAND 0ONT TO "EL !IR AND ON TO 2UE .EUVE BESIDE 0LACE DE LA 2IPONNE "Y CAR THE AUTOROUTES DESCRIBE AN AWKWARD JINK THROUGH THE OUTSKIRTS AND ITS EASY TO GO WRONG &OLLOWING AUTOROUTE SIGNS FOR h,AUSANNE #ENTREv CAN GET YOU SNARLED IN SUBURBAN TRAFlC INSTEAD AIM FOR h,AUSANNE 3UDv n THIS BRINGS YOU DIRECTLY TO THE -ALADIÒRE ROUNDABOUT A SCANT KILOMETRE WEST OF THE CITY CENTRE AND /UCHY )F YOURE APPROACHING FROM 6EVEY OR -ONTREUX DONT BOTHER WITH THE AUTOROUTE AT ALL BUT FOLLOW BLUE SIGNS FOR ,AUSANNE ALONG THE LAKESHORE ROAD 0ARKING IS EXPENSIVE OR AWKWARD OR BOTH 3TREET PARKING IN THE CENTRE IS A DEAD LOSS BUT ITS WORTH CRUISING AROUND SOUTH OF THE TRAIN STATION IN SEARCH OF A BLUE ZONE SPACE 4HE LARGEST CAR PARK IS UNDER 0LACE DU 2IPONNE WWW PARKING RIPONNECH BUT ITS MORE EXPENSIVE THAN THE EASY TO lND ONE ON THE /UCHY LAKEFRONT WHICH HAS BUSES AND METRO NEARBY /THERWISE AIM FOR THE SIGNED 0 2 0ARK AND 2IDE CAR PARKS IN /UCHY AND ON OTHER APPROACH ROADS WHERE YOU PAY &R OR SO DEPENDING ON THE NUMBER OF PEOPLE FOR A #ARTE *OURNALIÒRE WHICH INCLUDES YOUR PARKING SPACE FOR THE DAY AND FREE PUBLIC TRANSPORT &ROM 'ENEVA AIRPORT TRAINS RUN DIRECT TO ,AUSANNE EVERY MIN MIN !LTERNATIVELY AN !IRPORT 3HUTTLE %XPRESS MINIVAN WWW AIRPORTSHUTTLEEXPRESSCH WILL BRING YOU AND YOUR LUGGAGE TO ANYWHERE IN ,AUSANNE FOR &R PER PERSON 4HEY RUN AT SET TIMES EVERY HR DAILY AMn PM TAKES MIN AND MUST BE BOOKED AT LEAST AN HOUR IN ADVANCE 4HE SAME CONDITIONS APPLY FOR THE RETURN LEG EVERY HR DAILY AMnPM
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,AUSANNE HAS TWO TOURIST OFlCES ONE IN THE TRAIN STATION DAILY AMnPM WWWLAUSANNE TOURISMECH AND THE OTHER BESIDE /UCHY METRO STATION DAILY AMnPM /CTn-ARCH CLOSES PM "OTH HAVE STACKS OF INFORMATION ON THE WHOLE LAKE REGION &OR MORE FOCUSED INFORMATION ON CULTURAL HAPPENINGS AND THE LIFE OF THE CITY DROP INTO THE MUNICIPALITYS INFOR MATION OFlCE IN THE (ÙTEL DE 6ILLE -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM WWWLAUSANNECH
'ENEVAS ,E 4EMPS NEWSPAPER IS THE BEST SOURCE OF LISTINGS AND REVIEWS OF lLM OPENINGS PERFORMANCES AND CULTURAL EVENTS THROUGHOUT 2OMANDIE ALTHOUGH ALL IN &RENCH ,AUSANNES OWN (EURES TABLOID HAS CINEMA REVIEWS BUT ONLY A HANDFUL OF OTHER EVENTS LISTED 4HE TOURIST OFlCE PUTS OUT ITS OWN BIMONTHLY OFFERING
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!LTHOUGH THE /LD 4OWN IS COMPACT AND mYING CROW DISTANCES DONT LOOK TOO BAD MAPS CAN ONLY GIVE HALF THE STORY YOULL SOON lND THAT NEGOTIATING ,AUSANNES MOUNTAINOUS GRADIENTS AND CATS CRADLE OF VALLEYS AND BRIDGES CAN GET WEARYING 4HE EXCELLENT PUBLIC TRANSPORT IS RUN BY 4, WWWT LCH :ONE COVERS THE WHOLE CITY ! SHORT JOURNEY OF UP TO THREE STOPS COSTS &R A LONGER JOURNEY INSIDE :ONE COSTS &R VALID HR ! #ARTE JOURNALIÒRE IS &R 9OULL MOSTLY BE USING THE BUSES MANY OF THEM ELECTRIC -OST LINES SKIRT THE /LD 4OWN FROM 3T &RAN OIS TO "EL !IR TO 2IPONNE ONLY BUS WINDS THROUGH IT 4HERES ALSO A METRO THE STEEP - LINE KNOWN FONDLY AS LA &ICELLE THE 3TRING LINKS THE /UCHY WATERFRONT WITH &LON IN THE CITY CENTRE VIA THE TRAIN STATION 'ARE #&& THE -ÏTRO 'ARE SHUTTLES CONTINUOUSLY TO AND FRO BETWEEN &LON AND THE TRAIN STATION AND - RUNS FROM &LON WEST TO THE UNIVERSITY &OR DETAILS OF THE BOAT SERVICES ON THE LAKE SEE P 4HE STATION HAS BIKES FOR RENT AS NORMAL DAILY AMnPM BUT EVEN THE LOCALS HAVE TO GET OFF AND WHEEL THEM UP AND DOWN THE CITYS HILLS 7HERE BIKES SCORE IS IF YOU FANCY A LEISURELY DAY CYCLING THROUGH THE LAKESHORE VINEYARDS EITHER SIDE OF ,AUSANNE DROPPING YOUR BIKE OFF IN .YON OR 6EVEY AND GETTING THE TRAIN BACK TO THE CITY IN THE EVENING 9OU COULD ALSO TAKE A BIKE UP INTO THE HILLY FORESTS ABOVE ,AUSANNE AND THEN FREEWHEEL DOWN AGAIN 4O BLEND IN IMPER CEPTIBLY WITH THE LOCALS RENT SOME BLADES OR A SKATEBOARD FROM THE KIOSK AT 0LACE DE LA .AVIGATION IN /UCHY *UNEn3EPT DAILY AMnPM !PRIL -AY /CT 3AT 3UN AMnPM WWWDELACOMBAZCH THEY ALSO RENT GOOD BIKES INCLUDING SPEED TANDEMS &OR A TAXI CALL
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,AUSANNE HAS ACCOMMODATION TO SUIT ALL BUDGETS AND ASPIRATIONS 4HERES ONLY A COUPLE OF HOTELS WITHIN THE /LD 4OWN PLUS A FEW MORE IN THE HEART OF THE CITY CENTRE THOSE ON THE /UCHY LAKEFRONT HAVE AN ENTIRELY DIFFERENT MORE GRACIOUS AMBIENCE ALTHOUGH THE LAKEFRONT ROAD SEES PLENTY OF TRAFlC !NY NUMBER OF LUXURY ESTABLISHMENTS CAPITALIZE ON ,AUSANNES TOPOGRAPHY TO OFFER ROMANTIC LAKE VIEWS WITH A MORE OR LESS TASTEFUL LINE IN OPULENCE BUT THE BEST VALUE DEALS COME AT THE ARRAY OF BUSINESS HOTELS WHERE YOULL lND CUT PRICE RATES AT WEEKENDS AND SOME SPECIAL OFFERS TO DRAW IN HOLIDAYMAKERS ,AUSANNES HOSTELS ARE VERY GOOD
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5IF$JUZ ,AUSANNES CITY CENTRE SPANS SEVERAL HILLTOPS LINKED BY BRIDGES SPANNING DEEP RIVERLESS GORGES 0LACE 3T &RAN OIS DOMINATES THE HILLTOP DISTRICT KNOWN AS THE "OURG FORMERLY THE WEALTHIEST PART OF THE CITY AND STILL KNOWN FOR ITS UPMARKET SHOPS AND BOUTIQUES 4O THE NORTH THE HILL OF THE /LD 4OWN CROWNED BY THE CATHEDRAL DOMINATES THE CITY WHILE MORE HEIGHTS TO THE WEST AND EAST WERE ROPED IN DURING EXPANSION IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY 4HE WHOLE OF ,AUSANNES EXPLORABLE CENTRE LIES NORTH OF AND ABOVE THE TRAIN STATION WITH 0LACE 3T &RAN OIS AT THE EDGE OF A PEDESTRIAN ONLY ZONE COVERING VIRTUALLY THE ENTIRE /LD 4OWN 7ALKING IS THE BEST AND OFTEN THE ONLY WAY TO EXPLORE
4U'SBOÎPJTBOEUIF#PVSH &ROM THE TRAIN STATION A GAP BETWEEN BUILDINGS DIRECTLY AHEAD MARKS THE STEEP 2UE DU 0ETIT #HÐNE WHICH WINDS UP TO 0LACE 3T &RAN OIS ON THE TERRACE ABOVE "EDECKED WITH BUS WIRES BUSKERS AND SHOPPERS WITH TRAFlC SURGING THROUGH 3T &RAN OIS n GIVEN THE ADENOIDAL NICKNAME 3AINF BY THE LOCALS n IS ,AUS ANNES COMMERCIAL CENTRE DOMINATED BY THE BULK OF
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THE POST OFlCE AND OPPOSITE THE CONSIDERABLY MORE ATTRACTIVE ³GLISE 3T &RAN OIS 4HE &RANCISCANS COMPLETED THEIR NEW CHURCH IN IT THEN STOOD AT THE CENTRE OF A MONASTIC COMPLEX AGAINST THE SOUTHERN CITY WALLS )N THE MONASTERY WAS DISSOLVED AND THE BUILDING CLEARED OF RELIGIOUS IMAGERY TO BECOME THE PARISH CHURCH OF ,AUSANNES 6ILLE "ASSE LOWER TOWN ,ATER RENOVA TIONS NOT ALL IN ESPECIALLY GOOD TASTE DISlGURED THE INTERIOR AND ALTHOUGH THE CHURCH REMAINS AN ATMOSPHERIC RETREAT FROM THE BUSTLE OUTSIDE TODAY NOT A GREAT DEAL IS LEFT OF ITS ILLUSTRIOUS PAST 4HE QUARTER IN WHICH 3T &RAN OIS STANDS THE "OURG SPREADS OVER A NARROW RIDGE BETWEEN TWO GORGES AND ONCE STOOD ALONE THE 2UE DE "OURG TODAY A FASHIONABLE SHOPPING STREET RISING STEEPLY FROM BEHIND THE CHURCH HAD MUCH THE SAME STYLE IN THE PAST TOO LINED THEN WITH RESTAURANTS INNS AND LUXURY SHOPS )N THE S THE %NGLISH HISTORIAN %DWARD 'IBBON LIVED IN A HOUSE ON THE SITE OF THE 3T &RAN OIS POST OFlCE RIGHT AT THE HEART OF THE HIGH SOCIETY OF THE DAY -ASSIVE URBAN EXPANSION IN THE EARLY NINETEENTH CENTURY INCLUDED THE RAZING OF MANY SLUMS THE lLLING IN OF THE &LON RIVER n WHICH FOLLOWED THE COURSE OF THE PRESENT 2UE #ENTRALE n AND THE CONSTRUCTION OF GRAND BRIDGES UNIFYING THE DISPARATE NEIGHBOURHOODS OF THE CITY -OST DRAMATIC OF THESE IS THE 0ONT "ESSIÒRES SPANNING THE &LON GORGE FROM THE EASTERN TOP END OF THE 2UE DE "OURG OVER TO THE /LD 4OWN )N RECENT YEARS THIS HAS BECOME THE FAVOURED SPOT FOR SUICIDAL ,AUSANNOIS TO SHUFmE OFF THIS MORTAL COIL SO MUCH SO THAT EVERY .EW 9EARS %VE THE CITY POSTS GUARDIANS HALFWAY ALONG THE BRIDGE TO MAKE SURE NO MELODRAMATIC REVELLERS DECIDE TO TEST OUT THEIR THEORIES OF mIGHT ! WALK OVER THE 'RAND 0ONT lRST OF THE BRIDGES TO BE BUILT IN FROM 0LACE 3T &RAN OIS NORTHWEST TO 0LACE "EL !IR CAN HIGHLIGHT ,AUSANNES EXTRAORDINARY TOPOGRAPHY n STAIRS AND ALLEYS RUNNING OFF AT ODD ANGLES TRAFlC SURGING ALONG THE VALLEY ROAD WAY BENEATH THE LAKE GLITTERING BELOW ON ONE SIDE AND THE CATHEDRAL CROWNING THE HILL ABOVE ON THE OTHER "ELOW THE 'RAND 0ONT AND ALSO ACCESSED BY STAIRS LEADING DOWN FROM BESIDE THE DISTINCTIVE "EL !IR TOWER 3WITZERLANDS MODEST lRST SKYSCRAPER DATING FROM THE S IS THE &LON DISTRICT /NCE FULL OF MERCHANTS AND TRADERS TODAY ITS WAREHOUSES HAVE BEEN CONVERTED INTO DANCE CLUBS ALTERNATIVE CAFÏS GALLERIES AND THEATRE SPACES
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! lFTEEN MINUTE WALK NORTHWEST OF "EL !IR OR BUS FROM 3T &RAN OIS OR "EL !IR TO "EAULIEU BRINGS YOU TO ONE OF THE MOST ORIGINAL ART GALLERIES IN THE COUNTRY THE #OLLECTION DE L!RT "RUT !VENUE DES "ERGIÒRES 4UESn3UN AMnPM &R 3-0 FREE ON ST 3AT OF MONTH WWWARTBRUTCH 4HIS UNIQUE COLLECTION FOUNDED BY *EAN $UBUFFET IS DEVOTED TO WHATS BEEN CALLED hOUTSIDER ARTv THE CREATIVE OUTPUT OF ORDINARY PEOPLE WITH NO ARTISTIC TRAINING AT ALL n OFTEN LONERS PSYCHOTICS OR THE CRIMINALLY INSANE n WHO FOR SOME REASON SUDDENLY BEGAN MAKING THEIR OWN ART ON MANY OCCASIONS IN MIDDLE OR OLD AGE 7HAT RESULTS IS ART ENTIRELY FREE FROM ANY CONCEPTION OF FORMAL ARTISTIC RULES OR CONVENTIONS WHICH CHALLENGES BOTH HOW WE TEND TO VIEW SUCH hOUTSIDERSv IN OUR OWN COMMUNITIES AND OUR EXPECTATIONS OF WHAT ART SHOULD BE ABOUT 4HE GALLERY AND ITS COLLECTION FORCES YOU TO BE OPEN MINDED ABOUT THE ARTISTS AND THEIR LIVES EVEN THOUGH SHORT BIOGRAPHIES ALONGSIDE EACH PIECE TELL SOME HEART RENDINGLY SAD OR DISTURBING STORIES /NE HIGHLIGHT IS THE WORK OF (ENRY $ARGER A HOSPITAL PORTER IN #HICAGO WHO DIED ALONE AN OLD MAN UNKNOWN BY HIS NEIGHBOURS IT WAS ONLY AFTER HIS DEATH THAT HIS PAGE NOVEL ILLUS TRATED WITH DOZENS OF DETAILED WATERCOLOURS UP TO THREE METRES LONG CAME TO
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,OCATED IN THE TRANQUIL CORE OF ,AUSANNES /LD 4OWN THE COBBLED 0LACE DE LA 0ALUD IS A PERFECT SPOT FOR PEOPLE WATCHING WITH SHOPPING STREETS CASCAD ING THROUGH THE SQUARE FROM ALL SIDES PLENTY OF PAVEMENT CAFÏS AND THE HANDY &ONTAINE DE LA *USTICE USUALLY RINGED WITH PROMENADERS PERCHING ON ITS WIDE RIM ITS A TEMPTING PLACE TO TAKE A BREAK FOR A REVIVING CAFÏ RENVERSÏE ESPECIALLY IF THE 7EDNESDAY AND 3ATURDAY MORNING MARKETS ARE IN FULL SWING /N THE HOUR MECHANICAL lGURES EMERGE ON THE WALL BEHIND THE FOUNTAIN FOR A LITTLE CHIMING DISPLAY $OMINATING THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE SQUARE IS THE ARCADED (ÙTEL DE 6ILLE 4OWN (ALL BUILT IN ON THE SITE OF A COVERED MARKETPLACE DATING BACK TO THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY
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LIGHT 3COTTIE 7ILSON AN ILLITERATE 'LASWEGIAN JUNK DEALER BEGAN AT THE AGE OF TO PRODUCE WHIMSICAL AND INTRICATE %SCHERESQUE DRAWINGS WHILE A ,ONDON ART GALLERY WAS SELLING HIS DRAWINGS FOR HUNDREDS OF POUNDS 7ILSON WAS FOUND OUTSIDE IN THE STREET HAWKING OTHERS TO PASSERS BY FOR A POUND OR TWO 4HERES ART ON SHOW FROM A FACTORY WORKER WHOSE TALENT WAS ONLY DISCOVERED BECAUSE HE PINNED HIS DRAWINGS UP IN HIS WORKSHOP FROM A MEDIUM IMPRISONED IN THE S FOR HER INTEREST IN SPIRITUALITY FROM A POSTMAN WHO BELIEVED HIS HAND WAS BEING DIRECTED BY AN EXTERNAL FORCE AND SO ON !S WELL AS ITS PERMANENT COLLECTION THE GALLERY HAS REGULAR TEMPORARY EXHIBI TIONS OF ART BRUT FROM ARTISTS AROUND THE WORLD 7HATEVER IS SHOWING ITS WORTH GOING SOME DISTANCE OUT OF YOUR WAY TO SEE
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&ROM THE 0LACE DE LA 0ALUD 2UE -ADELEINE LEADS UP TO THE HUGE 0LACE DE LA 2IPONNE A PLAIN OF CONCRETE USUALLY DOTTED WITH STUDENTS SITTING ON THE STEPS OF THE OVERBEARING 0ALAIS DE 2UMINE ON THE FAR SIDE n AN ABSURDLY GRANDIOSE LATE NINETEENTH CENTURY NEO 2ENAISSANCE STRUCTURE ADORNED WITH LIONS ANGELS AND PINK MARBLE NAMED AFTER A LOCAL PHILANTHROPIST AND DESIGNED BY A 0ARISIAN ARCHITECT WHO HADNT ACTUALLY BOTHERED TO VISIT ,AUSANNE BEFOREHAND 4HE PALACE IS NOW HOME TO A CLUTCH OF MUSEUMS MOST INTERESTING OF WHICH IS THE -USÏE CANTONAL DES "EAUX !RTS 4UES 7ED AMnPM 4HURS AMnPM &RI 3AT AMnPM &R 3-0 FREE ON ST 3UN OF MONTH WWWBEAUX ARTS VDCH ! HUGE PERCENTAGE OF ITS WORKS INCLUDING THOSE FROM THE MEDIEVAL AND "AROQUE PERIODS AND ALL ITS 2ENOIRS ARE CURRENTLY IN STORAGE IN THE BASEMENT INSTEAD IT DISPLAYS THREE ROOMS OF 3WISS ART FROM THE EIGHTEENTH TO TWENTIETH CENTURIES INCLUDING MANY 6AUDOIS ARTISTS AND DEVOTES MOST OF ITS TIME AND ENERGY TO HIGH QUALITY EXHIBITIONS OF CONTEMPORARY ART HUNG IN THE BRIGHTER LESS FUSSY ROOMS AT THE BACK 4HE MUSEUM IS DUE TO MOVE AT SOME POINT BEFORE TO A NEW SITE ON THE WATERFRONT AT "ELLERIVE CHECK THE WEBSITE FOR THE CURRENT SITUATION &ROM 2IPONNE 2UE (ALDIMAND HEADS DOWN TO THE CHURCH OF 3T ,AURENT IN THE HEART OF THE OLD QUARTER ALSO KNOWN AS 3T ,AURENT 4HE 2UE DE L!LE AND 2UE DE LA 4OUR BRING YOU FURTHER WEST n PAST THE CROOKED 0INTE "ESSON THE CITYS OLDEST TAVERN TO THE STOUT CIRCULAR 4OUR DE L!LE ATOP THE HILL BUILT IN DURING A REORGANIZATION OF THE CITYS DEFENCES 4HE TRAFlC HUB OF 0LACE #HAUDERON IS A FEW METRES SOUTH AND DOWNHILL AT THE HEAD OF THE 0ONT #HAU DERON THIRD OF THE MAJOR BRIDGES SPANNING THE &LON VALLEY /N THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE BRIDGE IS THE -ONTBENON PARK WITH TUCKED INTO THE TREES THE 3WISS lLM ARCHIVES HOUSED IN THE lN DE SIÒCLE CASINO BUILDING NOW TRANSFORMED INTO THE #INÏMATHEQUE
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3TAIRS LEAD UP FROM BOTH 0LACE DE LA 0ALUD AND 0LACE DE LA 2IPONNE TO THE HIGHER POINTS OF THE /LD 4OWN 4HE ATMOSPHERIC %SCALIERS DU -ARCHÏ COVERED WOODEN STAIRS HEADING UP FROM 0ALUD DELIVER YOU TO 2UE 6IRET CIRCLING AROUND THE PINNACLE OF THE HILL FROM WHERE MORE STAIRS BRING YOU UP TO THE #ATHÏDRALE .OTRE $AME -ONn&RI AMnPM /CTn-ARCH UNTIL PM 3AT 3UN AMnPM FREE WWWGRANDESORGUESCH GENERALLY ACCLAIMED AS 3WITZERLANDS lNEST 'OTHIC BUILDING ON A PAR WITH THE GREATEST OF &RENCH 'OTHIC ARCHITECTURE %LEGANT AND PROPORTIONED TOWERS TURRETS AND SPIRES CLAW THEIR WAY UP STAGE BY STAGE INTO THE SKY THE SOUTH FACADE IS STUDDED WITH A SPECTACULAR GIANT 'OTHIC ROSE WINDOW OF STAINED GLASS AND mYING BUTTRESSES ENCIRCLE THE EXTERIOR OF THE CHOIR AND AMBULATORY 4HE FOUNDATIONS OF THE CURRENT BUILDING WERE PROB ABLY LAID IN THE MID TWELFTH CENTURY WITH CONSTRUCTION CONTINUING FROM THROUGH TO THE CATHEDRALS CONSECRATION IN $ESPITE EXTENSIVE RENOVATIONS AND ALTERATIONS JUST BEFORE THE 2EFORMATION AND THE LOSS OF THE ALTARS SCREENS AND MOST OF THE STATUARY PAINTINGS AND GLASS DURING AND AFTER IT THE CATHEDRAL HAS LOST NONE OF ITS GRACE AND POISE 9OU ENTER THROUGH THE WEST PORTAL BEDECKED WITH lGURES AND DUBBED THE -ONTFALCON PORTAL AFTER A SIXTEENTH CENTURY BISHOP 4HE INTERIOR 'REAT 0ORCH AN UNUSUAL LOFTY OPEN ARCADE WITH ITS RECESSED DOORWAY AND TWO TIERS OF COLUMNS ECHOES SIMILAR SETUPS IN %NGLISH CATHEDRALS SUCH AS ,INCOLN AND #ANTER BURY AND ITS BEEN SUGGESTED THAT .OTRE $AMES MAIN ARCHITECT *EAN DE #OTEREEL MAY HAVE BEEN .ORMAN OR PART %NGLISH HIMSELF *UST BEYOND A SQUARISH VESTIBULE GIVES INTO THE VAST BROAD 'REAT "AY WHICH PRIOR TO WAS ACTUALLY AN OPEN THOROUGHFARE WHICH CONNECTED THE 2UE #ITÏ $EVANT TO YOUR LEFT WITH THE 2UE 3T ³TIENNE TO YOUR RIGHT UNDER A VAULTED GALLERY AND BENEATH ARCHES WHICH SEEM EXTRA LARGE NOW THAT THEY HAVE BEEN ENCLOSED WITHIN THE BUILDING 4HE INTERIOR OF THE CATHEDRAL IS STUNNING EVERY LINE AND DETAIL DRAWING YOUR EYE DIZZILY UP TO THE LOFTY VAULTED HEIGHTS /N THE SOUTH WALL OF THE NAVE IS THE IMPRESSIVE 0AINTED 0ORTAL DATING FROM n ITS EXTERIOR IS STILL ENCRUSTED WITH ORIGINAL STATUES BUT HAS SUFFERED BADLY FROM WEATHERING IN RECENT YEARS AND MAY STILL BE COVERED FOR PROTECTION 4HE CROSSING AND TRANSEPT A FEW STEPS UP FROM THE NAVE AND lLLED WITH LIGHT ARE ENDOWED ON THE SOUTH SIDE WITH THE GLOWING THIRTEENTH CENTURY ROSE WINDOW /PPOSITE IS THE DOORWAY TO THE FORMER CLOISTER ABOVE WHICH COLUMNS IN FRONT OF THE RECTANGULAR WINDOWS HAVE BEEN SNAPPED OFF TO ALLOW MORE LIGHT TO ENTER THE BUILDING ! FEW STEPS UP AGAIN IS THE CHOIR HOUSING SOME EXCEPTIONALLY BEAUTIFUL THIRTEENTH CENTURY CARVED CHOIR STALLS ON THE LEFT IS THE TOMB OF /TTO OF 'RANDSON A RATHER DIMINU TIVE lGURE FOR SUCH A CELEBRATED MEDIEVAL KNIGHT SEE P 9OULL lND MORE EXTREMELY WORN TOMBS RANGED AROUND THE AMBULATORY RUNNING UNDER THE WALLS AND ALSO IN THE CRYPT BENEATH THE CHOIR 7ITH A TRULY SPECTACULAR VIEW OVER THE WHOLE OF THE CITY AND MOST OF ,AKE 'ENEVA TOO CLIMBING THE SOUTH WEST TOWER -ONn3AT nAM nPM 3UN nPM &R IS ONE OF THE HIGHLIGHTS OF VISITING ,AUSANNE "ESIDE THE CATHEDRAL IS THE !NCIEN ³VÐCHÏ THE OLD "ISHOPS 0ALACE WHICH HAS BEEN CONVERTED INTO THE -USÏE (ISTORIQUE *ULY !UG DAILY AMnPM REST OF YEAR 4UESn4HURS AMnPM &RIn3UN AMnPM &R 3-0 FREE ON ST 3AT OF MONTH WWWLAUSANNECHMHL #RAMMED WITH ALL KINDS OF DISPLAYS ILLUSTRATING THE HISTORY OF ,AUSANNE ITS HIGHLIGHT IS THE GIANT SCALE MODEL OF THE CITY IN THE BASEMENT WITH AN EXCELLENT ACCOMPANYING COMMENTARY IN %NGLISH DETAILING THE HISTORY OF THE VARIOUS NEIGHBOURHOODS SINCE MEDIEVAL TIMES THE LEAST OF IT IS THAT YOU CAN lNALLY GET A CLEAR BIRDS EYE VIEW OF HOW THE CITYS HILLS AND VALLEYS LIE IN RELATION TO EACH OTHER
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4WO PARALLEL STREETS 2UE #ITÏ $EVANT AND 2UE #ITÏ $ERRIÒRE LEAD UP FROM THE CATHEDRAL TO THE TOP OF THE /LD 4OWN /LD TIMERS BEMOAN THE FACT THAT THE !NCIENNE !CADÏMIE AT 2UE #ITÏ $EVANT BUILT IN THE S AS ,AUSANNES lRST UNIVERSITY FORMERLY LAY AT THE HEART OF A BUSTLING STUDENT QUARTER BUT THAT THE STUDENTS HAVE ALL DEPARTED SINCE THE NEW OUT OF TOWN CAMPUS OPENED )TS TRUE THAT THE ALLEYWAYS ARE NOW QUIET BUT THEYRE ALSO ATMOSPHERIC THE BLANK OLD FACADES GIVING AWAY LITTLE OF THEIR LONG HISTORY ! NUMBER OF CELLAR THEATRES AS WELL AS MOUTHWATERING SMELLS WAFTING FROM THE DARK INTERIORS OF SMALL BISTROS HINT THAT THE QUARTER IS FAR FROM DEAD !T THE TOP OF THE /LD 4OWN SITS THE UNSHAKEABLE #HÊTEAU 3T -AIRE BEGUN IN THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY AND COMPLETED IN BRICK BY NORTHERN )TALIAN MASONS A CENTURY LATER 4HE STRUCTURE SYMBOLIZES POLITICAL POWER IN FORMER TIMES IT WAS THE RESIDENCE OF THE "ERNESE BAILIFFS AND TODAY IT IS THE SEAT OF THE 6AUD CANTONAL GOVERNMENT 2UE DE LA "ARRE CONTINUES NORTH RISING OVER THE WORKADAY DISTRICT KNOWN AS 4UNNEL BUSY WITH TRAFlC AND HOME TO MANY STUDENTS ACCESSED BY STAIRS DOWN TO THE LEFT WEST OF THE STREET 0LACE DU 4UNNEL IS RINGED BY BARS CAFÏS AND MUSIC VENUES WHILE THE EPONYMOUS TUNNEL ITSELF n A MAJOR TRAFlC ROUTE n CUTS BENEATH 2UE DE LA "ARRE AND THE WHOLE /LD 4OWN HILL THROUGH TO THE EASTERN DISTRICTS OF THE CITY 4HE OPEN "OIS DE 3AUVABELIN THE BEGINNINGS OF THE *ORAT FORESTS mANKS 2UE DE LA "ARRE NORTHWARDS 3ET INTO THE PARK SOME WAY UP AND THIS IS NO MEAN HILL TAKE BUS IS AN EXPANSIVE BEAUTIFULLY PRESERVED NINETEENTH CENTURY VILLA HOUSING THE &ONDATION DE L(ERMITAGE ART GALLERY 2OUTE DU 3IGNAL 4UESn3UN AMnPM 4HURS UNTIL PM &R 3-0 WWWFONDATION
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0AST THE HILLS NORTHEAST OF ,AUSANNE YOU LEAVE THE TOURIST TRAILS BEHIND AND ENTER THE CLASSIC SCENERY OF 3WITZERLANDS RURAL HEARTLAND n ROLLING EMERALD GREEN HILLS BACKED BY DISTANT PEAKS AND TINKLING WITH THE NECK BELLS OF HAPPILY MUNCH ING COWS 6AUDS CANTONAL BOUNDARY IS ONLY ABOUT KM NORTHEAST OF ,AUSANNE AND MOST OF THE SIGHTS IN THIS REGION FALL INSIDE #ANTON &RIBOURG HOWEVER UNLESS YOU HAVE YOUR OWN TRANSPORT &RIBOURGS FAMOUS CHEESE MAKING CENTRE OF 'RUYÒRES IS MOST EASILY ACCESSIBLE BY TRAIN FROM ,AUSANNE 2OMONTS 'OTHIC CHURCH AND THIRTEENTH CENTURY TOWN CENTRE MAKE A BEAUTIFUL DETOUR ON THE JOURNEY TO OR FROM &RIBOURG ITSELF SEE P WHILE THE UNTOURISTED 'ROS DE 6AUD REGION NORTH OF ,AUSANNE IS PERFECT FOR COUNTRYSIDE CYCLING 4HE NORTHERN STRETCHES OF #ANTON 6AUD n 9VERDON 0AYERNE AND !VENCHES AS WELL AS THE 6ALLÏE DE *OUX n ARE COVERED IN #HAPTER
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4HE WALLS AND TURRETS OF 'RUYÒRESS FAIRY TALE CASTLE KM NORTHEAST OF ,AUSANNE BRISTLE ATOP A SINGLE CRAG RISING ABOVE THE ROLLING LOWLANDS OF #ANTON &RIBOURG 4HE WHOLE REGION n OF WHICH 'RUYÒRES VILLAGE IS THE BEST KNOWN ATTRACTION n IS KNOWN AS ,! '259¶2% WWWLA GRUYERECH TAKING IN THE LONG ,AC DE LA 'RUYÒRE AND THE 3ARINE VALLEY SOUTH OF &RIBOURG THE MARKET TOWN AND REGIONAL TRANSPORT HUB OF "ULLE AND A HANDFUL OF RESORTS CLINGING TO THE SLOPES OF THE 0REALPINE PEAKS WHICH PRELUDE THE 0AYS D%NHAUT SEE P FURTHER SOUTH $OMINATING THE LANDSCAPE IS THE GREAT TOWERING WEDGE OF THE -OLÏSON A JUTTING CHUNK OF MOUNTAIN RISING TO M WITH PLENTY OF HIKING POSSIBILITIES AND SOME GENTLE SKIING IN WINTER 4HIS IS DAIRY COUNTRY THE MOST FAMOUS PRODUCT BEING 'RUYÒRE CHEESE RUN A CLOSE SECOND BY THE LOCAL BUTTERFAT RICH DOUBLE CREAM SERVED WITH FOREST FRUITS IN 'RUYÒRESS HEAVENLY ARTERY CLOGGING VERSION OF AFTERNOON TEA 5IFDIPDPMBUFGBDUPSZBU#SPD
3OME KM NORTHEAST OF ,AUSANNE "5,,% ISNT LACKING IN CHARM BUT THERES LITTLE REASON TO VISIT OTHER THAN TO SWITCH TRANSPORT /N THE ROAD TO 'RUYÒRES YOULL PASS THROUGH ,A 4OUR DE 4RÐME ITS EPONYMOUS THIRTEENTH CENTURY TOWER PLUM IN THE MIDDLE OF THE VILLAGE /N THE EDGE OF THE VILLAGE OF "2/# WHICH LIES KM EAST OF ,A 4RÐME ASTRIDE THE ROUTE LEADING UP THROUGH THE TINY RESORT OF #HARMEY TO THE *AUN 0ASS YOULL DETECT LUSCIOUS SCENTS EMANATING FROM THE #AILLER CHOCOLATE FACTORY -AYn/CT -ON nPM 4UESn&RI nAM nPM &R RESERVATIONS ESSENTIAL ON WWWCAILLERCH 4HIS FACTORY FOUNDED IN IS THE SOLE PRODUCTION FACILITY FOR .ESTLÏS #AILLER BRAND NAMED AFTER ONE OF
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THE NINETEENTH CENTURY PIONEERS OF CHOCOLATE MAKING /N ARRIVAL YOURE LED THROUGH TO WATCH A SUPER SCHMALTZY COSTUME DRAMA MOVIE ABOUT LIFE LOVE AND CHOCOLATE IN A SMALL 3WISS TOWN AFTER WHICH A GUIDE LEADS YOU ON AN EXPLANA TORY TOUR OF PART OF THE FACTORY 4HE CLIMAX COMES IN THE 4ASTING 2OOM WHERE YOURE LET LOOSE ON TABLES PILED WITH BITE SIZED CHUNKS OF EVERY #AILLER PRODUCT IN UNLIMITED QUANTITIES PLACARDS OUTLINE HOW A PROFESSIONAL CHOCOLATE TASTER MEASURES QUALITY BUT MOST PEOPLE ARE FAR TOO BUSY SCOFlNG TO NOTICE *UST BEYOND LIES A SHOP WHERE YOU CAN BUY DISCOUNTED .ESTLÏ CHOCOLATE 4HE FACTORY SIGNPOSTED ON ALL APPROACH ROADS IS A SHORT WALK FROM "ROC &ABRIQUE TRAIN STATION WHICH IS SERVED BY LOCAL SCHEDULED TRAINS FROM "ULLE AND ,A 4OUR AND ALSO BY THE 3WISS #HOCOLATE 4RAIN A PACKAGED EXCURSION FROM -ONTREUX SEE BOX (SVZÒSFT
! PERFECTLY PRESERVED OLD CASTLE VILLAGE ISOLATED ON ITS CRAG BUT WITHIN EASY REACH OF ,AKE 'ENEVA '259¶2%3 IS ONE OF 3WITZERLANDS MOST PHOTOGENIC SIGHTS AND ATTRACTS HORDES OF DAY TRIPPERS THROUGHOUT THE SUMMER SEASON COME TO STROLL ON THE VILLAGES ONLY STREET AND EXPLORE THE IMPRESSIVE CHÊTEAU "Y AM IN SEASON THE VILLAGE CAN GET UNCOMFORTABLY CROWDED AND CAN STAY SO UNTIL LATE AFTERNOON #ARS ARE BANNED BUT YOULL lND SEVERAL LARGE PARKING AREAS ON THE HILLSIDE JUST BELOW !T THE FOOT OF 'RUYÒRES VILLAGE IN 0RINGY THE LOCATION OF 'RUYÒRES TRAIN STATION IS THE -AISON DU 'RUYÒRE A WORKING DAIRY DAILY AMnPM /CTn -AY CLOSES PM &R WWWLAMAISONDUGRUYERECH WHERE YOU CAN WATCH THE CHEESEMAKING PROCESS CLOSE UP PRODUCTION RUNS nAM nPM 4HERES ALSO A RESTAURANT AND SHOP BOTH CONCENTRATING ON LOCAL PRODUCE 5P ON THE HILL THE #HÊTEAU DE 'RUYÒRES DAILY !PRILn/CT AMnPM .OVn -ARCH AMnPM &R JOINT TICKET WITH 'IGER -USEUM &R 3-0 WWWCHATEAU GRUYERESCH WAS OCCUPIED FROM TO BY THE NINETEEN COUNTS OF 'RUYÒRES BUT WAS DECIMATED BY A lRE IN WHICH DESTROYED VIRTU ALLY EVERYTHING BUT THE DUNGEONS -ICHEL THE LAST COUNT RAN UP HUGE DEBTS RECONSTRUCTING THE LIVING QUARTERS IN 3AVOYARD STYLE AND THEN mED LEAVING HIS CREDITORS n THE GOVERNMENTS OF &RIBOURG AND "ERN n TO DIVIDE UP HIS LANDS BETWEEN THEM ! RICH 'ENEVA DYNASTY THE "OVY AND "ALLAND FAMILIES BOUGHT THE CASTLE IN AND SUPPORTED A NUMBER OF ARTISTS IN RESIDENCE INCLUDING THE &RENCH LANDSCAPE PAINTER #OROT BEFORE THE CANTONAL GOVERNMENT OF &RIBOURG
4RAINS FROM ,AUSANNE TO &RIBOURG PASS THROUGH 0ALÏZIEUX WHERE YOU MUST CHANGE FOR THE LOCAL '&- TRAINS THAT TRUNDLE THROUGH THE COUNTRYSIDE TO "ULLE AND THEN ON TO 'RUYÒRES GARE AT THE FOOT OF THE VILLAGE ITS A SHORT BUT STIFF WALK FROM THE STATION UP THE HILL TO 'RUYÒRES OR YOU COULD TIME YOUR ARRIVAL TO COIN CIDE WITH ONE OF THE HALF DOZEN BUSES A DAY SHUTTLING BETWEEN 'RUYÒRES GARE AND 'RUYÒRES VILLE 4HE 0ALÏZIEUXn'RUYÒRES TRAINS TERMINATE AT -ONTBOVON ON THE -/" LINE BETWEEN -ONTREUX AND 'STAAD )F YOURE APPROACHING FROM &RIBOURG TAKE AN EXPRESS BUS TO "ULLE AND SWITCH ONTO A TRAIN THERE /CCASIONAL BUSES GO DIRECT TO 'RUYÒRES VILLE FROM "ULLE STATION %VERYTHING IN 'RUYÒRES IS ON THE VILLAGES SINGLE STREET 4HE TOURIST OFlCE IS AT THE CAR PARK END -AYn/CT DAILY AMnNOON nPM REST OF YEAR -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM WWWGRUYERESCH 4HERE ARE ONLY A FEW HOTELS MOST OF WHICH TAKE ONE OR TWO DAYS A WEEK OFF IN THE WINTER 7HICHEVER SIDE OF THE STREET YOURE ON GETTING A ROOM AT THE BACK GIVES YOU A VIEW OVER THE VALLEY 4HE PINEWOOD &LEUR DE ,YS WWWHOTELmEURDELYSCH IS A SOUND CHOICE THE GRAND (ÙTEL DE 6ILLE WWWHOTELDEVILLECH n TAKES A STEP UP IN COMFORT AND CUISINE AND NICEST OF THE LOT IS THE (OSTELLERIE DES #HEVALIERS WWW GRUYERES HOTELSCHCHEVALIERS n JUST OUTSIDE THE VILLAGE &INDING A PLACE TO EAT ISNT DIFlCULT EVERYWHERE OFFERS TERRACES ON BOTH THE VILLAGE SIDE AND THE VALLEY SIDE AT WHICH TO NOSH CHEESY DELIGHTS OR BOWLS OF BERRIES SLATHERED IN SILKY CRÒME DOUBLE 4HE !UBERGE DE LA (ALLE IS ONE OF THE LEAST PRETENTIOUS PLACES TO GET A PROPER MEAL WITH &R MENUS !LL THE HOTELS OFFER QUALITY TRADITIONAL 'RUYÒRES AND &RENCH CUISINE WITH THE (OSTELLERIE 3T 'EORGES TOP CHOICE WITHIN THE VILLAGE
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ASSUMED CONTROL IN 4O APPROACH YOU MUST WALK THE LENGTH OF 'RUYÒRESS DIPPING PICTURESQUE MAIN STREET WITH ITS CENTRAL FOUNTAIN AND QUAINT OLD HOUSES ON EITHER SIDE BEDECKED WITH HANGING SIGNS ! HUGE GATE AFFORDS ENTRY TO THE CASTLE GROUNDS (IGHLIGHTS INCLUDE &LEMISH TAPESTRIES DECORATING THE COUNTS BEDCHAMBER #OROTS ROOM WITH LANDSCAPES PAINTED BY HIM AND OTHER ROOMS WITH GRAND lREPLACES HERALDIC STAINED GLASS OFTEN FEATURING THE DYNASTIC SYMBOL OF A CRANE GRUE IN &RENCH AND BOOTY FROM THE "ATTLE OF -URTEN SEE P WHERE ,OUIS )) OF 'RUYÒRE FOUGHT 4HE WOOD PANELLED +NIGHTS (ALL IS IMPRES SIVE AS IS THE SMALL FORMAL GARDEN AT THE VERY BACK ON THE TIP OF THE HILL "ESIDE THE CASTLE 'RUYÒRESS CHURCH IS IN AN EXCEPTIONALLY BEAUTIFUL LOCATION BACKED BY VALLEY VISTAS )N A COUPLE OF ODD COUNTERPOINTS TO THE GRANDEUR OF THE CASTLE YOULL lND AT THE GATE OF THE CASTLE AND COVERED BY THE SAME ENTRANCE FEE AND OPENING HOURS THE #ENTRE )NTERNATIONAL DE L!RT &ANTASTIQUE A SMALL GALLERY DEVOTED TO MODERN FANTASY ART n WHICH IS lNE IF YOU LIKE THAT KIND OF THING BUT HAS NO CONNECTION WITH THE COBBLED QUAINTNESS ALL AROUND 4HIS THOUGH IS AS NOTHING COMPARED WITH THE TRULY NASTY (2 'IGER -USEUM ADJACENT !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM .OVn-ARCH 4UESn&RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM &R JOINT TICKET WITH CHÊTEAU &R 3-0 WWWHRGIGERCOM 'IGER IS A 3WISS GRAPHIC ARTIST MOST FAMOUS FOR DESIGNING THE SPECIAL EFFECTS FOR THE MOVIE !LIEN n FOR WHICH HE WON AN /SCAR n AS WELL AS 0OLTERGEIST )) !LIEN AND OTHERS (E HAS TURNED ONE OF 'RUYÒRESS OLD HOUSES INTO A DARK AND UNPLEASANT SHOWCASE FOR HIS UNIQUE BRAND OF GROTESQUE ART n SEXUALIZED SURREALIST VISIONS OF MACHINE LIKE HUMANOIDS NIGHTMARISH CITYSCAPES AND FANTASY PORN h'IGER v ENTHUSED 4IMOTHY ,EARY S ACID GURU hYOU GIVE US COURAGE TO SAY HELLO TO OUR INSECTOID SELVESv 4HE LATEST INNOVATION IS AN !LIEN STYLE BAR ALONGSIDE
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4RAIN TRACKS AND MINOR ROADS BETWEEN ,AUSANNE AND &RIBOURG PASS BY 2/-/.4 A MEDIEVAL TOWN PERCHED ATOP AN ISOLATED ROUND HILL WITH LOFTY DEGREE VIEWS &ROM THE TRAIN STATION ITS A STEEP TEN MINUTE WALK UP TO THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY RAMPARTS 2OMONT CONSISTS OF LITTLE MORE THAN TWO BROAD STREETS WITH A DISTINCTIVE ROUND TOWER AT EACH END 4HE CASTLE DOMINATES WITH ONE TOWER CONVERTED INTO THE -USÏE DU 6ITRAIL 3TAINED 'LASS !PRILn/CT 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM .OVn-ARCH 4HURSn3UN AMnPM nPM &R 3-0 HOLDING MOSTLY MODERN EXAMPLES .EARBY IS THE BEAUTIFUL 'OTHIC COLLEGIATE CHURCH REPLETE WITH ORIGINAL WOODCARVING FROM A REBUILDING IN 4HE TOURIST OFlCE IS AT 2UE DU #HÊTEAU -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM !PRILn/CT ALSO 3AT AMnNOON WWWROMONTCH 4O THE WEST THE PEACEFUL COUNTRY BETWEEN ,AUSANNE AND 9VERDON IS KNOWN AS THE 'ROS DE 6AUD WWWGROS DE VAUDCH RURAL HEART OF THE CANTON AND 3WITZERLANDS BREADBASKET %#(!,,%.3 WWWECHALLENSCH KM NORTH OF ,AUSANNE IS THE MAIN CENTRE FORMERLY AN IMPORTANT MARKET TOWN BUT NOW METAMORPHOSED INTO A POPULAR RETREAT FOR YOUNG FAMILIES $ESPITE ITS SOMETIMES TWEE TOUCHES ITS STILL A PICTURESQUE PLACE WITH A THIRTEENTH CENTURY CHÊTEAU AND MANY EIGHTEENTH CENTURY BUILDINGS 4HE ,%" NARROW GAUGE RAILWAY WWW LEBCH n 3WITZERLANDS OLDEST OPENED IN n RUNS HERE FROM ,AUSANNE IN SUMMER ESPECIALLY THIS IS A LOVELY SCENIC RIDE
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OF THE LAKESHORE AND CARPETING THE lRST SLOPES OF THE HILLS WHICH RISE BEHIND 'ENTEEL SMALL TOWNS SUCH AS .YON AND 6EVEY EITHER SIDE OF ,AUSANNE HAVE MADE A LIVING RECHARGING THE BATTERIES OF FRAZZLED URBANITES FOR GENERATIONS /VER THE DECADES THE LAKE HAS ALSO ATTRACTED THE WORLDS WEALTHIEST PEOPLE AND THE SHORES AROUND THE JET SET PLAYGROUND OF -ONTREUX IN PARTICULAR ARE LINED WITH OPULENT VILLAS n ALTHOUGH A LAKESIDE STROLL CAN STILL LET YOU TASTE THE UNSPOILT BEAUTY WHICH DREW "YRON AND THE 2OMANTIC POETS IN A FORMER AGE 2ELAXING ON ONE OF THE BOATS WHICH CRISSCROSS THE LAKE BENEATH THE LOOMING PRESENCE OF THE 3AVOY !LPS AND THE $ENTS DU -IDI MOUNTAINS ON THE &RENCH SIDE HELPS BRING HOME THE FULL GRANDEUR OF THE SETTING
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4HE GENTLY CURVING NORTHWESTERN SHORE OF THE LAKE FROM 'ENEVA TO ,AUSANNE SOME KM IS KNOWN AS ,A #ÙTE WWWLACOTECH CHARACTERIZED BY A SUCCESSION OF HAMLETS AND SMALL VILLAGES ALMOST WITHOUT EXCEPTION PRETTY WELL KEPT AND PRISTINELY PICTURESQUE 4HOSE ALONG THE MINOR SHORELINE ROAD THE 2OUTE 3UISSE ARE LESS NUMEROUS AND MORE VISITED THAN THOSE PLACED BACK BEHIND THE MAIN AUTOROUTE ON THE lRST SLOPES OF THE *URA FOOTHILLS AMONGST VINEYARDS TILTED TOWARDS THE SUN WHICH PRODUCE SOME OF THE HIGHEST PRIZED WINE IN 6AUD 4HINGS ARE MUCH LESS DEVELOPED HERE FOR WINE TASTING TOURS THAN IN THE ,AVAUX REGION EAST OF ,AUSANNE SEE P (OWEVER IF YOU RENT A BIKE FROM LARGER TRAIN STATIONS FOR A DAYS GENTLE EXPLORATION ALONG THE NARROW 2OUTE DES 6IGNERONS WHICH WINDS FROM VINEYARD TO VINEYARD ALONG THE SLOPE YOULL lND PLENTY OF CAVEAUX WINE CELLARS OFFERING DÏGUSTATIONS TASTINGS OF LOCAL PRODUCTS 9OU HAVE TO PAY FOR THE TASTING n WHICH GENERALLY COMPRISES A FEW CHOICES OF WINE IN DL GLASSES n BUT CAN THEN TURN UP A BARGAIN IF YOU CHOOSE TO BUY A BOTTLE #OUNTLESS AUBERGES AND PINTES COUNTRY TAVERNS ALONG THE WAY OFFER LOCAL HOME COOKED SPECIALITIES 9OULL ALSO PASS DOZENS OF CHÊTEAUX EVIDENCE BOTH OF THE REGIONS KEY STRATE GIC SIGNIlCANCE IN MEDIEVAL TIMES AND ITS ATTRACTION TO %UROPES NOBILITY IN MORE RECENT CENTURIES 3OME ARE NOW MUSEUMS BUT MOST REMAIN IN PRIVATE HANDS -AJOR STOPOFFS INCLUDE THE HISTORIC #HÊTEAU DE #OPPET CLOSE TO 'ENEVA THE ATTRACTIVE LITTLE HARBOUR TOWN OF .YON WITH ITS OWN CHÊTEAU AND 2OMAN MUSEUM AND THE NEARBY #HÊTEAU DE 0RANGINS HOUSING AN EXCELLENT MUSEUM DEVOTED TO 3WISS HISTORY
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&ROM THE LANDING STAGE AT #/00%4 KM INSIDE 6AUD ITS EASY TO MAKE OUT 'ENEVAS *ET D%AU FOUNTAIN ONLY KM AWAY 4HE BULGE OF LOW HILLS OPPOSITE IS &RENCH TERRITORY CULMINATING IN THE WOODED HEADLAND OF 9VOIRE #OPPET SITS ASTRIDE THE LAKESHORE 2OUTE 3UISSE AND HAS AN ATTRACTIVE ARCADED MAIN STREET BUT IS UNREMARKABLE BUT FOR THE LAVISH #HÊTEAU DE #OPPET WWW SWISSCASTLESCH %NTRY IS ONLY ON THE MULTILINGUAL GUIDED TOURS %ASTERn/CT DAILY nPM *ULY !UG ALSO AMnNOON &R GIVEN BY THE KNOWLEDGEABLE STAFF THESE RUN EVERY HALF HOUR OR SO ACCORDING TO DEMAND 4HE HOUSE WAS BUILT BY *ACQUES .ECKER -INISTER OF &INANCE TO THE &RENCH KING ,OUIS 86) FROM UNTIL THE 2EVOLUTION IN .ECKER SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN RATHER DISGUSTED BY THE EXCESSES OF THE REGIME HE WAS PUBLICLY RESPONSI BLE FOR AND BUILT UP A DOSSIER DOCUMENTING THE EXTENT OF lNANCIAL CORRUPTION WHICH ITS SAID HELPED TO INITIATE THE 2EVOLUTION $URING THE S HIS DAUGHTER 'ERMAINE GAINED A REPUTATION IN THE 0ARIS SALONS FOR HER INTELLECT AND VIVACITY .ECKER RETIRED TO #OPPET IN FROM WHEN 'ERMAINES NOW -ADAME DE 3TAÑLS LITERARY AND PHILOSOPHICAL SALON BEGAN TO ATTRACT THE LEADING INTELLECTS OF THE DAY GAINING THE NICKNAME hTHE 0ARLIAMENT OF %UROPEAN /PINIONv 4HE 3WISS AUTHOR "ENJAMIN #ONSTANT WAS A REGULAR VISITOR AS WERE THE PHILOSOPHER 3CHLEGEL #HATEAUBRIAND ,ORD "YRON AND OTHERS ,IFE AT THE CHÊTEAU WAS ORGANIZED AROUND THE CONSTANT mOW OF GUESTS LUNCH IT IS SAID WAS SERVED AT PM DINNER AT PM WITH MUSICAL SOIRÏES AND PLAYLETS IN THE LIBRARY IN BETWEEN AND DEBATES AND DISCUSSIONS AFTERWARDS WHICH CONTINUED LATE INTO THE NIGHT -ADAME DE 3TAÑL DIED A CELEBRATED WRITER AND COMMENTATOR IN AT THE AGE OF AND THE CHÊTEAU IS STILL IN HER FAMILY TO THIS DAY 4HE RENOWNED
4UCKED IN A TINY ENCLAVE OF #ANTON 'ENEVA SURROUNDED BY 6AUD GENTLE #³,)'.9 IS ABOUT AS ENDEARING A RURAL GEM AS YOU COULD HOPE TO lND ENJOYING WATERSIDE LAWNS VINEYARDS ALL AROUND AND THROUGH THE VILLAGE AN ATMOSPHERIC CHURCH AND CHÊTEAU NOT OPEN TO THE PUBLIC 4HE AIR OF UNDISTURBED TRANQUIL LITY HANGING OVER THE FOUNTAINED VILLAGE SQUARE PROVED PARTICULARLY BALMING FOR THE ACTOR 2ICHARD "URTON WHO SPENT THE LAST FEW YEARS OF HIS LIFE HERE )F YOU WALK UP INTO THE VILLAGE FROM THE TRAIN STATION ACROSS THE SQUARE AND THEN HEAD LEFT CUTTING AROUND A PARKING AREA YOULL lND THE 6IEUX #IMITIÒRE A MOSSY GROVE BY A STREAM THE OTHER BANK IS 6AUDOIS TERRITORY THAT IS "URTONS lNAL RESTING PLACE
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PORTRAITIST )NGRES PAINTED DE 3TAÑLS GRANDDAUGHTER ,OUISE DE "ROGLIE #OUNTESS OF (AUSSONVILLE AND PROCEEDS FROM THE RECENT SALE OF THIS MASTERPIECE TO A GALLERY IN .EW 9ORK ENABLED THE CURRENT #OUNT TO RETAIN OWNERSHIP OF THE CHÊTEAU 4HE (AUSSONVILLES STAY IN #OPPET FOR A COUPLE OF WEEKS EACH SUMMER AND MAINTAIN THE HOUSE IN ITS ORIGINAL STYLE PART IS NOW GIVEN OVER TO A RESEARCH CENTRE ATTACHED TO THE 5NIVERSITY OF 'ENEVA 4HE APPROACH TO THE CHÊTEAU n GRAND BUT NO 6ERSAILLES n IS BENEATH A VAULTED ARCH INTO A PEACEFUL INTERIOR COURTYARD OPEN ON ONE SIDE TO THE GARDENS BEHIND A WROUGHT IRON GATE SURMOUNTED WITH THE ELABORATE INITIALS h.#v DEMONSTRAT ING THE PARTNERSHIP BETWEEN *ACQUES .ECKER AND HIS WIFE 3UZANNE #URCHOD .INE ROOMS ARE OPEN TO THE PUBLIC INCLUDING THE LIBRARY FORMERLY THE MAIN RECEPTION ROOM lLLED WITH %MPIRE AND $IRECTOIRE FURNITURE -ADAME DE 3TAÑLS BEDROOM WITH HER ,OUIS 86) BED DRAPED IN ,YON SILK *ULIETTE 2ÏCAMIERS BEDROOM NEXT DOOR HUNG WITH EXQUISITE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY #HINESE WALL PAPER AND UPSTAIRS A DRAWING ROOM AND A GALLERY OF FAMILY PORTRAITS #OPPET ALSO BOASTS THE SPLENDID HOTEL $U ,AC 'RAND2UE WWWHOTELDULACCH n 4HIS WOOD BEAMED INN WAS CLASSIlED AS A GRAND LOGIS IN AFTER DUCKING IN OFF THE BUSY ROAD YOU TRAIL THROUGH GRAND DINING ROOMS AND ANTIQUE LADEN DRAWING ROOMS UNTIL YOU REACH THE SHADY PERFECTLY CALM LAKESIDE TERRACE AT THE BACK )TS A lNE ATMOSPHERIC RETREAT
/ZPO .9/. n A MAJOR TOWN UNDER THE 2OMANS WHICH HAS MELLOWED INTO A LACONIC AND ATTRACTIVE LITTLE PORT KM NORTH OF #OPPET n IS A PERFECT STOPOVER ON A LEISURELY TOUR OF THE AREA 4HE TOWN ON A mATTISH PLAIN SANDWICHED BETWEEN THE *URA AND THE LAKE IS SPREAD OUT AMONG lELDS AND LAWNS WHICH REACH DOWN TO THE WATER AND IS BACKED BY ACRES OF VINEYARDS ON THE SLOPES BEHIND 4HERES A CHÊTEAU AND AN EXCELLENT 2OMAN MUSEUM AND THE NEARBY #HÊTEAU DE 0RAN GINS HOUSES THE REGIONAL BRANCH OF THE .ATIONAL -USEUM !ND IF MUSEUMS ARENT YOUR THING THERES THE OPTION OF RIDING A MOUNTAIN RAILWAY UP TO THE LITTLE *URA RESORT OF 3T #ERGUE !FTER *ULIUS #AESAR CONQUERED 'ALLIA #OMATA ,ONG (AIRED 'AUL IN "# HE RETIRED HIS CAVALRY VETERANS TO THE #OLONIA *ULIA %QUESTRIS BUILT OVER THE OLD (ELVETIAN SETTLEMENT OF .OVIODUNUM &OR TWO CENTURIES THE COLONY mOURISHED BECOMING A TOWN OF PEOPLE THE POPULATION DIDNT REACH SUCH HEIGHTS AGAIN UNTIL THE MID NINETEENTH CENTURY 4HE THIRD CENTURY SAW ATTACKS FROM !LEMANS AND &RANKS AND BY THE MID lFTH CENTURY THE COLONY WAS VIRTUALLY DESERTED /NLY ITS 2OMAN NAME SURVIVED THE ,ATIN WORD h#OLONIAv COMPRESSED INTO THE SINGLE NASAL SYLLABLE h.YONv 4HE REGION BECAME PART OF "URGUNDY AFTER THEN WAS PASSED FROM LORD TO LORD UNTIL THE "ERNESE CONQUERED 6AUD IN
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)N A &RENCH ENTREPRENEUR *ACQUES $ORTU OPENED A PORCELAIN WORK SHOP IN THE TOWN STAFFED BY LOCAL ARTISANS WHO PRODUCED WORK OF EXCEPTIONALLY HIGH QUALITY RAPIDLY ESTABLISHING .YON AS A CENTRE OF THE CRAFT MUSEUMS AROUND %UROPE NOW DISPLAY .YON PORCELAIN ALONGSIDE THE BEST OF ,IMOGES CHINA AS SOME OF THE HIGHEST PRIZED CERAMIC ART OF THE PERIOD 4HESE DAYS .YONS CLAIM TO FAME IS AS THE LOCATION OF FOOTBALL CUP DRAWS THE %UROPEAN GOVERNING BODY 5%&! IS HEADQUARTERED IN THE TOWN 5IF5PXO
(EADING SOUTHEAST FROM THE TRAIN STATION TOWARDS THE LAKE WILL BRING YOU IN A COUPLE OF MINUTES INTO THE COMPACT /LD 4OWN CENTRED ON 0LACE DU #HÊTEAU A CHARMING SHADED SQUARE WITH TERRACE CAFÏS THAT IS BACKED BY THE CHÊTEAU ITSELF A TWELFTH CENTURY TURRETED FORTRESS LOOKING OUT OVER THE LAKE 4HE TOWNS -USÏE (ISTORIQUE ITS DISPLAYS OF SILVER lNE ART PHOTOGRAPHS AND A COMPREHENSIVE COLLECTION OF .YON PORCELAIN CLOSED AT THE TIME OF WRITING REOPENED IN MID /PPOSITE AT 0LACE DU #HÊTEAU IS THE HEADQUARTERS OF &OCALE WWWFOCALECH A LEADING ASSOCIATION OF 3WISS PHOTOGRAPHERS THEIR CRAMPED BOOKSHOP IS EXCELLENT AS IS THE GALLERY DOWNSTAIRS 2UE DU 6IEUX -ARCHÏ LEADING WEST OFF THE SQUARE BRINGS YOU PAST A STATUE OF *ULIUS #AESAR TO THE IMPRESSIVE -USÏE 2OMAIN ON 2UE -AUPERTUIS 4UESn3UN AMnNOON nPM *ULY !UG ALSO -ON .OVn-ARCH CLOSED MORNINGS JOINT TICKET WITH -USÏE DU ,EMAN &R 3-0 WWWMRNCH 4HE MUSEUM IS HOUSED IN A 2OMAN BASILICA ORIGINALLY PART OF .YONS FORUM A TROMPE LOEIL FRESCO OF THE BASILICAS INTERIOR ON THE WALL OUTSIDE AS WELL AS A MODEL IN THE MUSEUM GIVE AN IDEA OF THE SIZE OF .YONS PUBLIC BUILDINGS IN ITS 2OMAN HEYDAY 4HE MUSEUMS EXTENSIVE COLLECTION IS WELL LAID OUT YOU PASS lRST INTO THE CENTRAL AREA THE NAVE OF THE BASILICA WHICH HOUSES INSCRIPTIONS STATUES AND ARCHITECTURAL DETAILS AND FROM THERE MOVE AROUND THE WALLS OF THE ROOM THROUGH ZONES DEVOTED TO DAILY LIFE CRAFTS AND RELIGION 4HE STREET ENDS AT THE SMALL ³GLISE .OTRE $AME DATING FROM AND OF UNUSUAL ASYMMETRICAL DESIGN ENDOWED WITH NEW STAINED GLASS 4HE ARCHED 0ORTE 3TE -ARIE ROUND THE CORNER GIVES ONTO THE %SPLANADE DES -ARRONNIERS #HESTNUT 4REES EXPOSED TO FRESH LAKE BREEZES AND DOMINATED BY TWO AND A HALF 2OMAN COLUMNS SITED IMPRESSIVELY AGAINST THE BLUE 7ALKING ALONG THE CITY WALLS EAST AND DOWN SOME STEPS TO THE LAKEFRONT DELIVERS YOU TO THE LITTLE -USÏE DU ,ÏMAN 1UAI ,OUIS "ONNARD 4UESn3UN !PRILn/CT AMnPM 3EPTn -ARCH nPM SAME TICKET AS -USÏE 2OMAIN 3-0 WWWMUSEEDULEMAN CH 4HE GROUND mOOR HAS INFORMATIVE DISPLAYS ON THE LAKES FAUNA WITH LARGE AQUARIUMS WHILE UPSTAIRS ARE PAINTINGS MODELS OF SHIPS AND DISQUISITIONS IN &RENCH ON HOW TO PROTECT THE LAKE &ROM THE 0LACE DE 3AVOIE M EAST ATMOSPHERIC 2UE DE 2IVE HEADS SLIGHTLY UPHILL LINED WITH ANTIQUE SHOPS AND
ODD CARTOONISH MURALS !T THE END 2UE DE LA #OLOMBIÒRE CONTINUES UPHILL AND WHERE IT MEETS 2UE DE LA 0ORCELAINE YOU SHOULD SPOT .YONS 2OMAN AMPHITHEATRE HALF HIDDEN IN THE GRASS VIRTUALLY THE SAME SIZE AS THE ONE AT !VENCHES SEE P BUT MUCH MORE RUINED AND UNFORTUNATELY NOW HEMMED IN BY MODERN HOUSING
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0LENTY OF TRAINS SERVE .YON ALTHOUGH NOTE THAT NOT ALL THOSE HEADING EAST GO TO ,AUSANNE SOME BRANCH OFF AT -ORGES ON THEIR WAY TO 9VERDON 2EGULAR BOATS ARRIVE FROM 'ENEVA AND ,AUSANNE 4HE TOURIST OFlCE IS ONE MINUTES WALK FROM THE STATION AT !VENUE 6IOLLIER -ONn&RI MID -AY TO MID 3EPT AMnNOON nPM CLOSED 7ED PM REST OF YEAR AMnPM nPM WWWNYONCH WITH A SUMMER OFlCE BY THE LANDING STAGE MID -AY TO MID 3EPT DAILY AMnPM *ULY !UG UNTIL PM ! GUIDED WALK STARTS FROM THE LANDING STAGE -AYn3EPT 7ED PM 3AT AM HR MIN &R .YONS TOP HOTEL IS THE "EAU 2IVAGE 2UE DE 2IVE WWWHOTEL BEAU RIVAGE NYONCH n A GRANDIOSE PILE THATS BEEN IN BUSI NESS SINCE AND BOASTS LARGE TRADITIONALLY FURNISHED ROOMS MOST LOOKING LAKEWARDS 4HE CHARMING (OSTELLERIE DU 86)E 3IÒCLE 0LACE DU -ARCHÏ WWWEMECOM n OCCUPIES AN ARCADED BUILDING IN THE COBBLED /LD 4OWN SOME ROOMS ARE ENSUITE OTHERS NOT 2UE DE 2IVE HAS ANY NUMBER OF PLACES TO EAT FRESH lSH BUT THE lLLET OF PERCH &R SERVED AT $U #HEVAL "LANC AT NO MUST RANK WITH THE BEST -ORE AFFORDABLE PIZZAS AND PASTA MENUS &Rn CAN BE MUNCHED AT ,E ,ÏMAN 2UE DE 2IVE
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! KILOMETRE OR TWO EAST OF .YON IS THE VILLAGE OF 02!.').3 IN THE MIDST OF WHICH SET IN ITS OWN FORMAL %NGLISH GARDENS IS THE #HÊTEAU DE 0RANGINS 4UESn3UN AMnPM &R 3-0 WWWMUSEE SUISSECOM BUILT IN THE S IN THE &RENCH STYLE AND NOW AN ARM OF THE 3WISS .ATIONAL -USEUM DEVOTED TO THE HISTORY OF 3WITZERLAND IN THE EIGHTEENTH AND NINETEENTH CENTU RIES )TS A HUGE PLACE HOLDING AN IMAGINATIVE COLLECTION THATS WELL WORTH A COUPLE OF HOURS ALL THE ROOMS ARE NUMBERED SEQUENTIALLY BUT THE LAYOUT CAN BE VERY CONFUSING AND YOU MAY lND YOURSELF BACKTRACKING MORE THAN ONCE
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%XHIBITS ON THE GROUND mOOR OUTLINING THE IDEALS OF ARISTOCRATS AND THE BOUR GEOISIE AROUND AND IN THE CELLARS DETAILING 3WITZERLANDS PRE INDUSTRIAL RURAL ECONOMY ARE LESS ENGAGING THAN THOSE ON THE TWO UPPER mOORS WHICH ARE DEVOTED TO 3WISS CULTURAL HISTORY FROM INTO THE TWENTIETH CENTURY %ACH ROOM h&ROM "IRTH TO $EATHv h4HE $ISPLAY OF 0OWERv h4RAVELLERS AND 4OURISTSv HAS GOOD %NGLISH NOTES WITH ITEMS FROM EVERYDAY LIFE DISPLAYED NEXT TO HISTORICALLY SIGNIlCANT OBJECTS .UMEROUS MULTIMEDIA STATIONS ENHANCE WANDERINGS BY LETTING YOU PLAY PERIOD MUSIC WHILE YOURE EXAMINING THE CASES 2ECONSTRUCTED INTERIORS SUCH AS THAT OF A LATE NINETEENTH CENTURY SCHOOLROOM DISPLAY UNCANNY ATTENTION TO DETAIL /UTSIDE AN EXTENSIVE KITCHEN GARDEN HAS BEEN PLANTED WITH FRUIT AND VEGETABLES ACCORDING TO EIGHTEENTH CENTURY ACCOUNTS OF HORTICULTURE "US RUNS HOURLY FROM .YONS TRAIN STATION ON A CIRCULAR ROUTE THROUGH 0RANGINS STOPPING EITHER AT THE VILLAGE POST OFlCE THREE MINUTES FROM THE CHÊTEAU -ONn3AT OR AT THE CHÊTEAU ITSELF 3UN -VJOTBOE7JO[FM
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3OME KM NORTHEAST OF .YON ON THE 2OUTE DES 6IGNERONS ARE THE NEIGH BOURING WINE VILLAGES OF ,5).3 AND 6).:%, BOTH FAMOUS FOR THEIR MALAKOFFS 4HESE LITTLE GASTRONOMIC CURIOSITIES n A RICH FRIED CHEESE AND EGG MIXTURE SERVED HOT ON A ROUND BREAD BASE n ARE A LOCAL SPECIALITY RENAMED TO CELEBRATE THE TRIUMPHANT RETURN OF A BAND OF 6AUDOIS MERCENARIES UNDER THE 2USSIAN GENERAL -ALAKOFF FROM THE SIEGE OF 3EBASTOPOL 4HE TWO VILLAGES WHICH ARE TEN MINUTES WALK APART HAVE COMPETED SINCE THEN FOR WHOSE MALAKOFF IS BETTER 4AKE THE TASTE TEST AT THE !UBERGE #OMMUNALE IN ,UINS THEN WANDER DOWN THE ROAD PAST THE VINEYARDS TO !U #OEUR DE LA #ÙTE IN 6INZEL n BOTH ARE OPEN DAILY SERVING MALAKOFFS FOR AROUND &R EACH WHILE YOURE AT IT TAKE THE CHANCE TO COMPARE AND CONTRAST THE EXCELLENT VILLAGE WINES ! GOOD HIKE REACHES ABOVE ,UINS TO A TINY CHURCH WITH A VIEW DATING FROM AND ON UP PAST THE VINEYARDS INTO WOODS OF BEECH OAK AND CHESTNUT EVENTUALLY EMERGING INTO OPEN PASTURE ON THE PLATEAU ABOVE
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4HE COMPACT STRETCH OF ,AKE 'ENEVA SHORE EAST FROM ,AUSANNE TO 6EVEY n KNOWN AS THE ,AVAUX WWWLAVAUXCOM n IS ONE OF THE MOST ALLURING OF ALL 3WISS REGIONS ITS mORAL WATERSIDE PROMENADES mANKED ON ONE SIDE BY WIDE EXPANSES OF VINES AND ON THE OTHER BY VISTAS ACROSS TO THE 3AVOY !LPS RISING BEHIND THE $ENTS DU -IDI ON THE FAR SHORE 4RAINS HEADING TO -ONTREUX AND BEYOND HUG THE SHORELINE SEEMING TO WHISK YOU ALONG INCHES ABOVE THE GLITTER ING LAKE 3OME OF THE COUNTRYS BEST WINES COME FROM THE DOZENS OF VINEYARDS CLUSTERED CHEEK BY JOWL ALONG THE STEEP ,AVAUX SLOPES THIS IS PERFECT COUNTRY FOR GENTLE WALKS AND BIKE RIDES PUNCTUATED BY SAMPLINGS OF THE LOCAL NECTAR #AFÏS AND PINTES ABOUND SET IN THE COBBLED STREETS OF PICTURESQUE VILLAGES 4OURIST OFlCES HAVE INFORMATION TO GUIDE YOU THROUGH THE ,AVAUXS WINE VILLAGES A LINE OF HAMLETS STRUNG ALONG THE SLOPES BETWEEN ,AUSANNE AND 6EVEY DEVOTED TO THE ART OF VITICULTURE "ETWEEN -AY AND /CTOBER MOST RELIABLY ON WEEKENDS 4HURSn3UN YOULL lND CAVEAUX CELLARS AND CARNOTZETS CELLARS WITH ROUGH BENCHES AND TABLES FOR EXTENDED WINE AND FOOD SAMPLING SESSIONS OPEN IN EVERY VILLAGE SOME OF THEM BELONGING TO THAT COMMUNES VIGNERONS ASSOCIA TION OTHERS ATTACHED TO PRIVATE CHÊTEAUX OR INDEPENDENT VIGNOBLES 4HE ,AVAUX WEBSITE AND 6EVEY TOURIST OFlCE HAVE FULL DETAILS
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TRAGICALLY DESTROYED REMNANTS OF PREHISTORIC OFFSHORE STILT DWELLINGS n WHERE UPON SHORTLY AFTERWARDS THE RAILWAY ARRIVED INSTANTLY RENDERING THE HARBOUR UNECONOMICAL AND LEAVING 2OLLE DOUBLY BEREFT 4HE ISLAND NAMED AFTER A LOCAL STATESMAN IS NOW THE FOCUS FOR 2OLLES YACHTIES 3OME KM EAST STANDS THE #HÊTEAU D!LLAMAN n BUILT IN THE TWELFTH CENTURY TORCHED IN REBUILT IN AND SOLD OFF IN TO BE SPLIT UP INTO LUXURY APARTMENTS TIME WILL TELL WHETHER THE WINE TASTINGS AND SALES FORMERLY HELD IN THE SPLENDID CELLARS WILL CONTINUE 4HE LAKESIDE ROAD WINDS ON TO ,AUSANNE THROUGH -/2'%3 ANOTHER PEACE FUL LITTLE HARBOUR TOWN FAMED FOR ITS KILOMETRE LONG 1UAIS DU $AHLIA AND THE &ÐTE DE LA 4ULIPE IN !PRIL AND -AY )TS CHÊTEAU HOLDS A MILITARY MUSEUM &ORMERLY THE MAIN REASON TO COME WAS TO VISIT THE OUTLYING VILLAGE OF 4OLO CHENAZ HOME TO THE ACTRESS !UDREY (EPBURN FROM UNTIL HER DEATH IN THE COMMUNE AND LOCAL VOLUNTEERS HAD SET UP AN EXCELLENT LITTLE MUSEUM n COMPLETE WITH /SCARS AND THE BLACK DRESS WORN IN "REAKFAST AT 4IFFANYS n THAT CHANNELLED FUNDS TO THE !UDREY (EPBURN &OUNDATION FOR #HILDREN SUPPORTING 5.)#%& (OWEVER IN (EPBURNS TWO SONS EFFECTIVELY CLOSED THE MUSEUM BY TAKING BACK ALL THE EXHIBITS CLAIMING OVER COMMERCIALIZA TION OF THEIR MOTHERS MEMORY "AR (EPBURNS GRAVE IN THE VILLAGE CEMETERY NOTHING REMAINS
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RETURNED MANY TIMES AFTERWARDS &RED DIE EVENTUALLY BUYING AN APARTMENT ON THE 4ERRITET WATERFRONT NOW PRIVATE PROPERTY WHERE HE SPENT HIS LAST FEW MONTHS IN !SSOCIATIONS WITH ROCK MUSIC CONTINUE WHEN YOU REACH THE #ASINO ON 2UE DU 4HÏÊTRE THIS DOUR MODERN BUILDING REPLACED THE GRAND ORIGINAL WHICH OPENED IN AND WAS BURNED TO THE GROUND ON $ECEMBER DURING A CONCERT BY &RANK :APPA AND THE -OTHERS OF )NVENTION $URING THE SHOW SOMEONE IN THE AUDIENCE LET OFF A ROCKET mARE WHICH SET THE CEILING ON lRE EVERYONE GOT OUT WITH OUT INJURY BUT THE BUILDING CONTINUED TO BURN ALL NIGHT )AN 'ILLAN LEAD SINGER OF THE BAND $EEP 0URPLE WHO WERE HOLED UP IN A HOTEL NEARBY WATCHED THE mAMES LEAPING INTO THE SKY AND WAS THUS INSPIRED TO WRITE HIS SEMINAL ROCK CLASSIC h3MOKE /N 4HE ©5 4HE©IMMORTAL©&REDDIE©-ERCURY 7ATERv 4HE ZIGZAGGING STREETS AND HILLSIDE TERRACES OF THE STEEP /LD 4OWN ABOVE THE TRAIN STATION PROVIDE MARGINALLY MORE INTEREST ! GROUP OF EIGHTEENTH CENTURY BUILDINGS HOUSES THE MODEST -USÏE DE 6IEUX -ONTREUX 2UE DE LA 'ARE !PRILn /CT DAILY AMnNOON nPM &R 3-0 WWWMUSEEMONTREUX CH ILLUSTRATING THE TOWNS HISTORY
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!LTHOUGH THE SCENERY ALL AROUND THE CASTLE IS IMPRESSIVE ENOUGH THE LOCATION OF THE BUILDING IS MORE IMPRESSIVE STILL n AND IS THE KEY TO ITS HISTORY 4HE MOUN TAINS IN FRONT OF THE CASTLE FALL DIRECTLY INTO THE LAKE WITH ONLY THE NARROWEST OF THROUGH ROUTES BETWEEN THE SHEER ROCK WALL AND THE WATER $IRECTLY OPPOSITE THE DElLE A RAZOR EDGE SHEER SIDED ISLET RISES FROM THE WATER OF WHICH ONLY THE VERY TOP IS VISIBLE 4HIS IS WHERE #HILLON SITS IF YOU WERE TO DRAIN THE LAKE THE CASTLE WOULD TEETER ABOVE AN INCREDIBLE DROP OF OVER M AS HIGH AS THE %IFFEL 4OWER 3UCH DEPTHS ARE COLD AND THE LAKES WEATHER IS CAPRICIOUS MAKING ATTACK FROM OPEN WATER EXTREMELY UNLIKELY %QUALLY THE ROAD IS NARROW THE HEIGHTS ARE VIRTUALLY UNSCALEABLE AND THERES NO OTHER WAY TO PASS MAKING IT IMPOSSIBLE TO AVOID THE CASTLE 7HOEVER CONTROLLED THE CASTLE COULD CONTROL THE TRAFlC )N "RONZE !GE TIMES THERE WAS NO PATH AROUND THE LAKE TRAVELLERS HAD TO CLIMB THE STEEP M SLOPES AT #HILLON TO A VILLAGE ON THE HEIGHTS ABOVE THEN DROP BACK DOWN TO REJOIN THE PATH 4HE 2OMANS CUT A NARROW LEDGE ALONG THE LAKESHORE AND ALSO OPENED UP THE 'RAND 3T "ERNARD 0ASS OVER THE !LPS FURTHER SOUTH TURNING THE ROAD PAST THE UNFORTIlED ISLET INTO THE ONLY ROUTE CONNECTING NORTHERN AND SOUTHERN %UROPE THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS "Y THE -IDDLE !GES THE QUANTITY OF TRAFlC MEANT THE ROAD HAD TO BE WIDENED AND ALSO THAT A FORM OF TOLL COULD BE SET UP 4HE VILLAGE ABOVE WAS ABANDONED IN FAVOUR OF A NEW TOWN VILLE NEUVE TODAYS 6ILLENEUVE BUILT ON OPEN ACCESSIBLE LAND A LITTLE WAY SOUTH ON THE VALLEY mOOR &IRST SURVIVING MENTION OF A hGUARDIAN OF THE STRONGHOLD OF #HILLUNv DATES FROM 4HE #OUNTS OF 3AVOY PARTICULARLY 0IERRE n MADE #HILLON A PRINCELY RESIDENCE ALSO DEVELOPING 6ILLENEUVE INTO A MAJOR TRADING CENTRE WHICH POURED TOLLS AND CUSTOMS DUTIES INTO #HILLONS COFFERS IN ON AVERAGE ONE HORSE RIDER AND PERHAPS A DOZEN FOOT TRAVELLERS WERE CROSSING THE 'RAND 3T "ERNARD 0ASS EVERY HOUR OF DAYLIGHT ON EVERY DAY OF THE YEAR 0IERRES ARCHITECTS AND ENGINEERS TRANSFORMED #HILLON REBUILDING THE HALF FACING THE SHORE AS A FORTRESS WITH THREE STRONG TOWERS AND A KEEP AND lLLING THE HALF FACING THE WATER WITH GRAND HALLS AND ROYAL APARTMENTS !S THE 3AVOYARDS BEGAN TO THREATEN THE (ABSBURGS #HILLON BECAME THEIR MILI TARY AND NAVAL HEADQUARTERS 4HE CASTLE WAS BOTH THE CENTRE OF COURT LIFE AND A MUCH FEARED PRISON WHEN PLAGUE BROKE OUT IN 6ILLENEUVE IN THE TOWNS *EWS WERE ACCUSED OF PLOTTING WITH #HRISTIAN ACCOMPLICES TO POISON THE WATER
!S THROUGHOUT HISTORY THE ROAD PASSES OUTSIDE THE CASTLE WALLS n THESE DAYS ITS THE -ONTREUXn6ILLENEUVE HIGHWAY SERVED BY BUS THE AUTOROUTE CLINGS TO THE HILLSIDE HIGH ABOVE 4HE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY GATEHOUSE IS SUPPORTED ON STILTS REPLACING THE ORIGINAL DRAWBRIDGE !T THE TICKET WINDOW YOULL GET A FOLLOW THE NUMBERS PAMPHLET WHICH PLUNGES YOU STRAIGHT DOWN INTO THE VAULTED AND ATMOSPHERIC DUNGEONS ROOMS n WHERE THE DUKES OF 3AVOY IMPRISONED &RAN OIS "ONIVARD HE WAS MANACLED TO THE lFTH PILLAR ALONG WHICH STILL BEARS A RING AND A LENGTH OF CHAIN "ONIVARD WROTE THAT THE DUNGEON WAS EXCAVATED TO BELOW THE WATER LINE AND "YRON ALSO WROTE ABOUT THE DAMP BUT THE ROOM IS IN FACT ABOVE THE WATER AND QUITE AIRY 4HE )RISH NOVELIST -ARIA %DGEWORTH VISITING IN PERHAPS MISSED THE POINT WHEN SHE BRIGHTLY CHIPPED IN h)F ) WERE TO TAKE LODGINGS IN A DUNGEON ) SHOULD PREFER THIS TO ANY ) HAVE EVER SEEN BECAUSE IT IS HIGH AND DRY WITH BEAUTIFUL GROINED ARCHES AND NO BAD SMELLSv 3HE ALSO NOTED THAT "YRONS NAME WAS CUT INTO THE THIRD PILLAR OF THE DUNGEON AS IT STILL IS AND THAT THE GUIDE REMEMBERED HIS VISIT FOUR YEARS PREVIOUSLY ! GRILLE IN THE EXTERNAL WALL GIVES ONTO THE LAKE FACILITATING A RAPID EXIT BY ROWING BOAT SHOULD THINGS HAVE EVER GOT NASTY UP ABOVE 4HE REAL WONDER OF THE CASTLE LIES IN THE ROOMS UPSTAIRS GLORIOUSLY GRAND KNIGHTS HALLS SECRET TWISTING PASSAGES BETWEEN LAVISH BEDCHAMBERS GOTHIC WINDOWS WITH DREAMY VIEWS A FRESCOED CHAPEL AND MORE 4HE 'RAND +ITCHEN ROOM STILL HAS ITS ORIGINAL WOODEN CEILING AND TWO MASSIVE OAK PILLARS INSTALLED AROUND 4HE "ERNESE "EDCHAMBER ROOM HAS ORIGINAL BIRD AND RIBBON DECORATIONS DATING FROM THE S WHILE THE EXPANSIVE (ALL OF !RMS ROOM COMPLETE WITH lREPLACE AND WINDOWS OVER THE LAKE IS COVERED WITH ESCUTCHEONS OF THE "ERNESE BAILIFFS 4HE ,ORDS #HAMBER ADJACENT ROOM RETAINS ITS ORIGINAL THIRTEENTH AND FOURTEENTH CENTURY WALL PAINTINGS RUSTIC SCENES OF ANIMALS IN AN ORCHARD WITH 3T 'EORGE SLAYING THE DRAGON ON THE CHIMNEYPIECE 4HE CHAPEL ROOM FEATURES AN IMPRESSION OF THE FULL GLORY OF THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY DECORATION WITH SLIDES PROJECTED ONTO THE PARTLY DECORATED WALLS .EXT DOOR THE BREATHTAKING 'REAT (ALL OF THE #OUNT ROOM HAS SLENDER BLACK MARBLE PILLARS SHIMMERING CHEQUERED WALL DECORATION A
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SUPPLY AND LARGE NUMBERS OF BOTH WERE TORTURED IN #HILLONS DUNGEONS "Y THIS TIME THE 'OTTHARD 0ASS FURTHER EAST WAS IN USE AND THE TRANSFER OF TRAFlC AWAY FROM #HILLON AND THE 'RAND 3T "ERNARD LED TO THE CASTLES TERMINAL DECLINE AS A MILITARY FORTRESS ALTHOUGH IT REMAINED HANDY AS A SECURE JAIL )N THE 3AVOYARDS IMPRISONED A SCHOLAR &RAN OIS "ONIVARD AT #HILLON FOR INCITING THE 'ENEVOIS PEOPLE TO FORM AN ALLIANCE WITH THE 3WISS AGAINST 3AVOY 4HEY LEFT HIM SHACKLED TO A PILLAR IN THE DUNGEONS FOR SIX YEARS UNTIL HIS RELEASE IN WHEN THE "ERNESE ARMY TOOK CONTROL &ORTUNATELY FOR POSTERITY #HILLON BECAME A QUIET BACKWATER )N AFTER 6AUD HAD WON INDEPENDENCE FROM "ERN "YRON AGED AND 3HELLEY VISITED THE CASTLE ON THEIR TOUR OF THE LAKE ! GUIDE TOOK THEM INTO THE DUNGEONS WHERE "ONIVARD HAD BEEN SHACKLED AND WOVE ENOUGH OF A TALE AROUND HIM AND AROUND THE CASTLES HISTORY TO CATCH THE POETS IMAGINATION )N HIS /UCHY HOTEL "YRON SCRIBBLED OUT HIS 0RISONER OF #HILLON A LONG NARRATIVE POEM SUPPOS EDLY SPOKEN BY "ONIVARD BUT ENTIRELY lCTITIOUS THROUGHOUT WHICH CELEBRATES THE CAUSE OF INDIVIDUAL LIBERTY AND WHICH BROUGHT #HILLON TO THE ATTENTION OF THE WEALTHY TOURISTS WHO WERE STARTING TO EXPLORE THE !LPS !RCHEOLOGISTS AND HISTORIANS LAUNCHED RENOVATIONS OF THE CRUMBLING INFRASTRUCTURE IN THE LATE NINETEENTH CENTURY WHICH RESTORED A GREAT DEAL OF THE CASTLES ORIGINAL GRANDEUR 7ORK TO MAINTAIN THE CASTLE CONTINUES TODAY
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-ONTREUXS TRAIN STATION IS SERVED BY THREE DIFFERENT GAUGES OF TRACK !S WELL AS THE MAINLINE #&& TRAINS RUNNING WEST ALONG THE LAKE AND SOUTH INTO THE 6ALAIS THERE ARE TWO DIFFERENT NARROW GAUGE LINES OPERATED BY -/" -ONTREUXn /BERLAND "ERNOIS WWWMOBCH CLIMBING UP INTO THE HILLS ABOVE -ONTREUX THAT OFFER SPECTACULAR VIEWPOINTS EXCELLENT HILL WALKING AND PANORAMIC RIDES THROUGH THE COUNTRYSIDE TOWARDS THE HIGH !LPS OF THE "ERNESE /BERLAND 4HE SMALLER LINE HAS CREAKING TRAINS WINDING THEIR LABORIOUS WAY NORTHEAST UP TO THE GIANT 2OCHERS DE .AYE SUMMIT %URAIL NOT VALID )NTER2AIL GETS HALF PRICE AND THE 3WISS 0ASS IS FREE TO #AUX WITH A PERCENT DISCOUNT FROM THERE TO 2OCHERS %MERGING FROM A SERIES OF CORKSCREW TUNNELS YOU COME TO ',)/. AN EYRIE OF A VILLAGE PERCHED AMIDST lELDS OF NARCISSI DIRECTLY ABOVE -ONTREUX WITH JAW DROPPING VIEWS OVER THE LAKE AND THE 2HÙNE 4HERE ARE A COUPLE OF LUXURY OLD WORLD HOTELS UP HERE BUT THE MORE AFFORDABLE (ÙTEL DES !LPES 6AUDOISES ON 2UE DU "UGNON AND WITH ITS OWN TRAIN STATION WWWHOTEL ALPSCH IS JUST AS CHARACTERFUL AND TRANQUIL A PLACE TO UNWIND ! STEEP FUNICULAR ALSO SERVES 'LION FROM 4ERRITET ON THE LAKESIDE BELOW &URTHER UP ON THE TRAIN LINE IS #!58 HOME TO THE #ONFERENCE #ENTRE FOR -ORAL 2E !RMAMENT THE DRAMATICALLY TURRETED HEADQUARTERS OF A RATHER ODD COLLECTIVE WHICH SEEKS TO EASE GLOBAL POLITICAL AND ECONOMIC STRIFE THROUGH PERSONAL RELIGIOUS RECONCILIATION !FTER ANOTHER HALF HOUR TRAINS REACH THE RUGGED VANTAGE POINT OF 2/#(%23 $% .!9% M WITH INCREDIBLE VIEWS OVER THE LAKE AND PLENTY OF HIKING TRAILS OVER THE GRASSY HILLTOPS 5IF(PMEFO1BTTMJOF.POUSFVYo(TUBBEo*OUFSMBLFO
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HE NORTHWEST FRONTIER DIVIDING 3WITZERLAND FROM &RANCE IS THE *URA MOUNTAIN RANGE n LINE AFTER LINE OF LONG NORTHEAST SOUTHWEST RIDGES THAT TRAP BETWEEN THEM A SUCCESSION OF SAUSAGE SHAPED LAKES 4HE *URA ARE NOTHING LIKE THE !LPS MUCH LOWER TO START WITH RARELY MORE THAN M WITH NONE OF THE MAJESTY BUT ALL OF THE RUGGEDNESS 3CRUBBY HILLTOPS AND DEEP PARALLEL VALLEYS ARE DOTTED BY WINDSWEPT PRIVATELY MINDED VILLAGES NURSING A WEATHERBEATEN 'ALLIC CULTURE CUT OFF FOR CENTURIES FROM BOTH &RANCE AND 3WITZERLAND 4HE WHOLE !RC *URASSIEN WHICH TAKES IN THE HIGHLANDS OF THE *URA 6AUDOIS THE REGIONS THREE LARGEST LAKES n THE ,AC DE .EUCHÊTEL -URTENSEE,AC DE -ORAT AND "IELERSEE,AC DE "IENNE n #ANTON .EUCHÊTEL AND #ANTON *URA IN THE FAR NORTHWEST IS WELL OFF THE BEATEN TRACK OF MOST VISITORS TO 3WITZERLAND 'UIDEBOOKS AND BROCHURES TEND TO SKIMP ON DETAIL SINCE IT DOESNT EASILY lT INTO THE USUAL 3WISS PIGEONHOLES )F YOU CHOOSE TO VENTURE OUT HERE YOULL lND A MINIMUM OF TOURIST HYPE AND FEW ACTUAL SIGHTS OTHER THAN THE MAIN TOWNS OF .EUCHÊTEL AND "IEL"IENNE BUT WHAT EXISTS IN ABUNDANCE IS VIRTUALLY UNTOUCHED NATURE n AND THIS IS WHY THE 3WISS KNOW AND LOVE THE PLACE 4HE RECENT BRAINWAVE TO CALL THE REGION h7ATCH 6ALLEYv WWWWATCHVALLEYCH IN ORDER TO MARKET IT ABROAD n DESPITE THE FACT THAT IT ISNT A VALLEY AND ONLY SOME AREAS HAVE A TRADITION OF WATCHMAKING n RATHER MISSES THE POINT OF ITS CHARM /NCE YOU LEAVE THE LAKES AND THE LOWLANDS PUBLIC TRANSPORT ISNT EASY AND EVEN MAIN ROADS ARE A RELATIVELY RECENT INNOVATION )F YOU DONT HAVE A CAR THE BEST WAY TO GET AROUND IS BY BIKE OR ON FOOT 4OURIST OFlCES CAN DIRECT YOU ONTO ANY NUMBER OF CYCLING TRAILS OR FOOTPATHS THAT REACH ALL SCENIC SPOTS /N P WEVE OUTLINED A LONG MULTI DAY WALK THROUGH THE AREA WHICH STARTS NEAR :àRICH WINDS THROUGH THE WHOLE *URA REGION AND ENDS UP AT ,AKE 'ENEVA
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CHUBBY CHEEKED LITTLE BOY ALSO SITS AT A MAHOGANY DESK WITH A GOOSE QUILL IN HIS RIGHT HAND AND A TINY POT OF INK NEARBY FOR DIPPING (E WRITES IN A mORID AND CHUNKY STYLE AND CAN BE PROGRAMMED TO PRODUCE ANY TEXT OF UP TO FORTY CHAR ACTERS WATCHING HIM WRITE FOR INSTANCE hELECTRICITÏv LIFTS THE HAIRS ON THE BACK OF YOUR NECK 7HILE HE WRITES HIS EYES FOLLOW THE WORDS ACROSS THE PAGE 4HE MOST CHARMING OF THE THREE IS THE -USICIAN A GRACIOUS YOUNG GIRL WITH SLENDER AND DEXTEROUS lNGERS WHO PLAYS A SMALL ORGAN n A REAL INSTRUMENT NOT A DISGUISED MUSICAL BOX !S HER lNGERS STRIKE THE KEYS TO PRODUCE THE NOTES AND HER EYES HEAD AND BODY MOVE SUBTLY FROM SIDE TO SIDE IN TIME HER CHEST RISES AND FALLS DELICATELY IN AN IMITATION OF RHYTHMIC BREATHING (ER MELODIES WERE COMPOSED IN THE EARLY S BY (ENRI ,OUIS *AQUET $ROZ n A mEETING AND UNIQUE AUDITORY TIME CAPSULE FROM PRE 2EVOLUTIONARY %UROPE $FOUSF%àSSFONBUU
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/N THE HILLSIDE ABOVE .EUCHÊTEL REACHED ON BUS IS THE #ENTRE $àRRENMATT #HEMIN DU 0ERTUIS DU 3AULT 7EDn3UN AMnPM &R 3-0 WWW CDNCH 4HIS IS A MUSEUM AND RESEARCH CENTRE DEVOTED TO THE 3WISS WRITER AND ARTIST &RIEDRICH $àRRENMATT n WHO WAS BORN IN THE 'ERMAN SPEAK ING %MMENTAL BUT CAME TO .EUCHÊTEL IN AND SPENT THE LAST YEARS OF HIS LIFE HERE $àRRENMATTS PAPERS AND HIS %XPRESSIONIST STYLE PAINTINGS ASIDE THE CHIEF REASON TO VISIT IS THE SUPERB ARCHITECTURE THE 4ICINESE ARCHITECT -ARIO "OTTA HAS DESIGNED A SLEEK CURVING GALLERY PARTLY BURIED IN THE HILLSIDE BELOW $àRRENMATTS FORMER HOME TO DISPLAY THE ART WORKS "OTTAS ACHIEVEMENT HERE IS EYE POPPING ENJOY IT ALONG WITH SPECTACULAR LAKE VIEWS FROM THE TERRACE CAFÏ
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-B$IBVYEF'POET ,! #(!58 $% &/.$3 IS AN ODDITY -ORE PEOPLE LIVE THERE THAN IN .EUCHÊTEL ALTHOUGH YOUD NEVER GUESS IT FROM THE SPARSITY OF STREET LIFE 3TRANGEST OF ALL HOWEVER IS THE FACT THAT THIS RATHER UNPREPOSSESSING PLACE WAS ONCE A HOUSEHOLD NAME ACROSS %UROPE THE HUMMING CENTRE OF THE 3WISS WATCHMAKING INDUSTRY WHICH IN ITS HEYDAY OF THE LATE EIGHTEENTH AND NINETEENTH CENTURIES WAS LARGELY RESPONSIBLE FOR ESTABLISHING 3WITZERLANDS REPUTATION n WHICH SURVIVES TODAY n FOR PRODUCING RElNED LUXURY GOODS OF THE HIGHEST QUALITY 4HE TOWN WAS BURNED TO THE GROUND IN AND REBUILT ON A GRID SYSTEM CHARACTERIZED BY ENORMOUSLY LONG VERY BROAD PARALLEL BOUL EVARDS 4HIS FEATURE COMBINED WITH THE MUNICIPALITYS TASTE FOR POSTMODERN GLASS TOWERS HAS GIVEN ,A #HAUX DE &ONDS THE RATHER UNFORTUNATE AIR n VERY ODD FOR 3WITZERLAND AND FRANKLY BIZARRE FOR SUCH AN HISTORIC PLACE n OF A NEW TOWN TRANSPORTED FROM SOMEWHERE IN ANONYMOUS -IDDLE !MERICA )TS RATHER AN EXHAUSTING PLACE TO WALK AROUND THOUGH ITS MUSEUMS MERIT A VISIT )F YOU HAVE YOUR OWN TRANSPORT AND ARE APPROACHING FROM .EUCHÊTEL WHETHER ON THE WINDING MINOR ROAD OR THROUGH THE CLIMBING MOTORWAY TUNNELS MAKE SURE YOU STOP FOR A WHILE AT THE 6UE DES !LPES M A MAGNIlCENT VIEW POINT JUST SHORT OF ,A #HAUX DE &ONDS GIVING A BROAD PANORAMA OF THE 3WISS PLATEAU BACKED BY THE SNOWY "ERNESE !LPS
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!BOVE .EUCHÊTEL ROADS AND TRAIN TRACKS RISE STEEPLY INTO THE *URA n KNOWN WITHIN THE CANTON AS THE -ONTAGNES .EUCHÊTELOISES 4HIS IS WILD AND HILLY COUNTRY CHARACTERIZED BY REMOTE WINDSWEPT SETTLEMENTS AND DEEP RUGGED VALLEYS )T IS ALSO THE HEARTLAND OF THE CELEBRATED 3WISS WATCHMAKING INDUSTRY CENTRED ON THE ONCE FAMOUS TOWNS OF ,A #HAUX DE &ONDS AND ,E ,OCLE 4HE $OUBS RIVER MARKS THE BORDER WITH &RANCE SET DOWN IN A GORGE AND FORM ING ALONG ITS PATH AN IMPRESSIVE WATERFALL THE 3AUT DU $OUBS AND LAKE THE ,AC DES "RENETS WHICH TOGETHER MAKE A PLEASANT DAY OUT
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4HE TRAIN STATION IS REASONABLY CENTRAL SET BACK M FROM THE MAIN !VENUE 2OBERT WHICH CUTS A STRAIGHT NORTHEASTnSOUTHWEST GROOVE THROUGH THE CENTRE OF TOWN )N THE TALL %SPACITÏ CYLINDRICAL GLASS TOWER ON THE NORTH SIDE OF !VENUE 2OBERT SOME M EAST OF THE STATION YOULL lND THE TOURIST OFlCE *ULY !UG -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM REST OF YEAR -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM 3AT AMnNOON WWWPAYSDENEUCHATEL CH )N FRONT OF THE TOWER IS A MONUMENTAL NINETEENTH CENTURY FOUNTAIN CENTRAL LANDMARK OF THE TOWN
5)& "3$ + 63"4 4 * & /
4HE TOWNS BUSES WWWTRNCH RUN ON CIRCULAR ROUTES AND ALL PASS IN FRONT OF THE TRAIN STATION ! DAY TICKET IS &R .OTE THAT AFTER PM ON WEEKDAYS AND ALL DAY AT WEEKENDS ROUTES COMBINE UNDER DIFFERENT NUMBERS !LTERNATIVELY YOU COULD BOOK AT THE TOURIST OFlCE FOR A TOUR OF TOWN BY HORSE DRAWN CARRIAGE -AYn/CT DAILY HR MIN &R PER PERSON 4HE HOTEL $E &RANCE IS NEXT TO THE STATION A hGARNIv PLACE WITH REASONABLE ROOMS BOTH ENSUITE AND NOT 4HE &LEUR DE ,YS !VENUE 2OBERT BY THE FOUNTAIN WWWmEUR DE LYSCH IS A PLEAS ANT BUSINESS HOTEL /N THE APPROACH TO TOWN IS -OTEL DU *URA 2UE DE L(ÙTEL DE 6ILLE WITH FREE PARKING 5IF5PXO
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,A #HAUX DE &ONDS MAIN DRAW IS THE AWARD WINNING -USÏE INTERNATIONAL DHORLOGERIE 2UE DES -USÏES 4UESn3UN AMnPM &R 3-0 WWW MIHCH ABOUT M EAST OF THE STATION SET BACK M FROM !VENUE 2OBERT 4HERE ARE HUNDREDS OF ITEMS TRACING THE ART OF KEEPING TIME WITH A CONCEN TRATION OF BEAUTIFUL PIECES FROM ,A #HAUXS HEYDAY IN THE EIGHTEENTH AND NINETEENTH CENTURIES AS WELL AS ULTRA MODERN ATOMIC AND ELECTRONIC CLOCKS )N ONE CORNER LOCAL WATCHMAKING lRMS WHICH ARE ALSO THE WORLD MARKET LEADERS PUT THEIR LATEST BEJEWELLED CREATIONS ON DISPLAY n BUT WITHOUT PRICE TAGS )N THE PARK OUTSIDE IS A GIANT TUBULAR STEEL CARILLON WITH DIGITAL READOUT n ALL THE RAGE WHEN IT WAS BUILT IN n THAT CHIMES EVERY QUARTER HOUR )MMEDIATELY ADJACENT IS THE -USÏE DES "EAUX !RTS 2UE DES -USÏES 4UESn3UN AMnPM &R 3-0 HOUSED IN AN IMPRESSIVE .EOCLASSICAL BUILD ING WITH AN AIRY ANNEXE FOR TEMPORARY EXHIBITS 4HE PERMANENT COLLECTION TAKES IN A -ODIGLIANI A COUPLE OF 6AN 'OGHS $ELACROIX AND 2ENOIR AMONG A SELECTION OF MOSTLY LITTLE KNOWN EARLY MODERN WORKS 4HE TROUBLED FACE OF LOCAL ARTIST ,ÏOPOLD 2OBERT IN A PORTRAIT BY HIS SON !URÒLE HINTS AT HIS DISTURBING FATE HE CUT HIS OWN THROAT IN AT THE AGE OF AFTER THE FAILURE OF AN UNHAPPY RELATIONSHIP WITH #HARLOTTE "ONAPARTE 0LENTY OF 2OBERTS OWN ROMANTIC IMAGES OF 6ENETIAN SAILORS EXOTIC PEASANT WOMEN AND ROGUEISH MOUNTAIN BANDITS n AS WELL AS MAWKISH WORKS ON DEATH AND IMPENDING MORTALITY n COVER THE WALLS ,A #HAUXS MOST FAMOUS SON WAS THE MODERNIST ARCHITECT #HARLES %DOUARD *EANNERET KNOWN AS ,E #ORBUSIER HIS FACE ADORNS THE 3WISS TEN FRANC NOTE (E WAS BORN IN AT 2UE DE LA 3ERRE DOTTED AROUND TOWN ARE SEVERAL EXAMPLES OF HIS WORK INCLUDING THE 6ILLA "LANCHE #HEMIN DE 0OUILLEREL &RIn3UN AMnPM &R WWWVILLA BLANCHECH BUILT FOR HIS PARENTS IN WHITE FOLLOWING A JOURNEY AGED TO THE %AST AND THE -EDITERRANEAN STYLE 6ILLA 3CHWOB OR 6ILLA 4URQUE 2UE DU $OUBS ST RD 3AT OF MONTH AMnPM FREE WHICH NOW HOUSES THE PUBLIC RELATIONS ARM OF THE %BEL WATCHMAKING lRM 4HE TOURIST OFlCE HAS A BROCHURE OUTLINING AN ELEVEN POINT ,E #ORBUSIER ITINERARY THROUGH THE TOWN &BUJOH ESJOLJOHBOEOJHIUMJGF
&OR EATING AND DRINKING A FEW PAVEMENT CAFÏS ARE DOTTED ALONG !VENUE 2OBERT OFFERING STANDARD BRASSERIE FARE n THE 4RATTORIA 4OSCANA AT NO IS TYPI CAL )L #AMINETTO 2UE DE LA "ALANCE HAS WOOD lRED PIZZAS FOR &R AND GOOD lSH FOR UNDER &R 4HERES A RELIABLY GOOD -ANORA AT "OULEVARD DES %PLATURES AND TRADITIONAL FARE SUCH AS FONDUE AND TRIPE AT THE 0INTE .EUCHÊTE LOISE 2UE 'RENIER CLOSED 3UN 4HE BEST VIEW IN TOWN IS FROM THE #ITÏRAMA CAFÏ ON THE TH mOOR OF THE %SPACITÏ TOWER ASIDE FROM ICE CREAM COFFEE AND LIGHT MEALS THEY HAVE AN OUTSIDE TERRACE WITH BIRDS EYE VIEWS ALONG THE ARROW STRAIGHT LENGTH OF !VENUE 2OBERT n BEST AFTER DARK WHEN WITH A BEER OR
TWO INSIDE YOU YOU MIGHT JUST IMAGINE YOURSELF IN ,! FOR A BRIEF SECOND 4HE VAULTED 0TIT 0ARIS 2UE DU 0ROGRÒS CLOSED 3UN WWWPETIT PARISCH AS WELL AS SERVING GOOD INEXPENSIVE FOOD HAS SOME LIVE MUSIC DOWNSTAIRS WHILE THE TOWNS BEST MUSIC VENUE IS THE "IKINI 4EST 2UE *OUX 0ERRET WWWBIKINITEST CH HOSTING EVERYTHING FROM DEATH METAL TO DANCEHALL TO WORLD JAZZ
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!BOUT KM WEST OF ,A #HAUX IS THE SMALL TOWN OF ,% ,/#,% WHERE 3WISS WATCHMAKING WAS BORN $ANIEL *EANRICHARD A NATIVE OF .EUCHÊTEL WHERE HE MADE HIS lRST WATCH IN AGED SETTLED IN ,E ,OCLE IN AND TAUGHT THE TRADE TO HIS FAMILY AND A SMALL GROUP OF APPRENTICES WHO THEN TOOK THE SKILL ON TO ,A #HAUX AND ELSEWHERE IN THE *URA 4HE -USÏE DHORLOGERIE IN THE #HÊTEAU DE -ONTS ABOVE THE TOWN 4UESn3UN -AYn/CT AMnPM .OVn!PRIL nPM &R 3-0 WWWMHL MONTSCH FEATURES EIGHTEENTH CENTURY ROOMS CRAMMED WITH TICKING TIMEPIECES OF ALL KINDS 4O REACH ,E ,OCLE FROM ,A #HAUX ITS EASIEST TO GET THE REGULAR BUSES OR WHICH STOP AT THE CENTRAL 0LACE DU -ARCHÏ 0OSTBUSES FROM ,E ,OCLE TO ,A "RÏVINE STOP AT THE #OL DES 2OCHES UNDER GROUND MILLS -AYn/CT DAILY AMnPM .OVn!PRIL 4UESn3UN nPM &R 3-0 WWWLESMOULINSCH KM WEST OF ,E ,OCLE 4HESE DANK CHAMBERS WERE CHISELLED OUT IN THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY IN ORDER TO TAKE ADVAN TAGE OF THE WATER mOWING DOWN TO THE $OUBS THERE ARE VARIOUS MILLS AND OTHER BITS OF HEAVY MACHINERY DOWN THERE 4HE OBLIGATORY HOUR LONG GUIDED TOUR IS IN SPOKEN &RENCH AND 'ERMAN WITH %NGLISH NOTES ! SIDE ROAD BRANCHES KM NORTH FROM THE #OL DES 2OCHES DOWN TO THE RIVERSIDE VILLAGE OF ,%3 "2%.%43 WHERE THE $OUBS BROADENS INTO THE ,AC DES "RENETS KNOWN TO THE &RENCH ON THE OTHER BANK AS THE ,AC DE #HAILLEXON WHICH FREEZES OVER IN WINTER TO FORM THE LARGEST NATURAL ICE RINK IN %UROPE .ARROW GAUGE TRAINS FROM ,E ,OCLE PULL INTO ,ES "RENETS TRAIN STATION WALK LEFT DOWN THROUGH THE VILLAGE FOR TWENTY MINUTES TO THE RIVERBANK TO REACH THE LANDING STAGE WHICH IS ALSO SERVED BY DIRECT BUSES FROM ,E ,OCLE &ROM HERE YOU CAN TAKE A lNE BOAT TRIP TAKES MIN WWWNLBCH EAST THROUGH A CRAGGY GORGE TO THE M HIGH 3AUT DU $OUBS WATERFALL
:WFSEPOMFT#BJOTBOEBSPVOE ! MARKET TOWN ON THE SOUTHERN TIP OF ,AC DE .EUCHÊTEL 96%2$/. ,%3 "!).3 IS BEST KNOWN FOR ITS THERMAL SPRINGS n CELEBRATED AT LEAST SINCE 2OMAN TIMES n AND IS HANDY AS A JUMPING OFF POINT BOTH FOR THE TERRIlC OLD CASTLE AT NEARBY 'RANDSON AND FOR TRIPS INTO THE 6AUDOIS HINTERLAND AROUND 6ALLORBE SEE P AND INTO THE 6ALLÏE DE *OUX SEE P 9VERDON WAS FOUNDED IN WHEN 0IERRE OF 3AVOY BUILT A CASTLE ON WHAT WAS THEN THE LAKEFRONT TO DEFEND AGAINST ATTACK FROM THE EAST THE LAKE HAS SINCE SILTED UP SO THAT THE FORTRESS IS NOW THE BEST PART OF A KILOMETRE INLAND (OWEVER PREHISTORIC STANDING STONES AND 2OMAN REMAINS SHOW THAT THE 3AVOYARDS WERE NOT THE lRST TO SEE THE STRATEGIC IMPORTANCE OF 9VERDONS LOCATION ON ONE OF %UROPES MOST SIGNIlCANT ANCIENT CROSSROADS 4HE SHORTEST ROUTES FROM CENTRAL &RANCE TO )TALY AND FROM SOUTHERN &RANCE TO 'ERMANY NOT TO MENTION THE VITAL WATER ROUTE LINKING THE 2HÙNE AND THE 2HINE ALL PASSED THROUGH 9VERDON WHOSE NAME DERIVES FROM THE 'ALLO 2OMAN %BURODUNUM h&ORTRESS OF THE 9EW 4REEv
4HESE DAYS 9VERDON LIES SECOND IN 6AUD TO ,AUSANNE 6ISIT FOR ITS CASTLE COMPACT /LD 4OWN WITH MANY "AROQUE AND .EOCLASSICAL FACADES SPA COMPLEX KM OF SANDY BEACHES AND THE #HAMP 0ITTET MARSHLAND NATURE RESERVE WWWPRONATURACHCHAMP PITTET STRETCHING ALONG THE LAKESHORE KM NORTH EAST OF TOWN
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9VERDONS CENTRAL 0LACE 0ESTALOZZI IS DOMINATED BY THE BROAD FRONTED ,OUIS 86 STYLE (ÙTEL DE 6ILLE AND NEXT TO IT THE FOURSQUARE TURRETED CHÊTEAU BUILT AFTER BY 0IERRE )) OF 3AVOY OCCUPIED BY THE "ERNESE IN AND SEIZED DURING THE 6AUDOIS REVOLUTION IN &ROM TO THE CHÊTEAU HOUSED AN EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTE SET UP BY THE VISIONARY REFORMER (EINRICH 0ESTALOZZI SEE BOX 9VERDONS SCHOOLCHILDREN CONTINUED TO BE TAUGHT WITHIN THE CASTLE WALLS RIGHT UP UNTIL 4ODAY ITS THE HOME OF THE -USÏE D9VERDON 4UESn 3UN AMnPM /CTn-AY nPM &R JOINT TICKET WITH -AISON D!ILLEURS &R 3-0 WHICH INCLUDES A COUPLE OF 'ALLO 2OMAN DUGOUT CANOES A RATHER HOMESICK %GYPTIAN MUMMY IN THE *EWS 4OWER AND A COSTUME COLLECTION &AR MORE ENGAGING IS THE -AISON D!ILLEURS OPPOSITE THE CHÊTEAU h(OUSE OF %LSEWHEREv 7EDn&RI nPM 3AT 3UN NOONnPM &R JOINT TICKET WITH -USÏE D9VERDON &R 3-0 WWWAILLEURSCH 4HIS SELF BILLED hMUSEUM OF SCIENCE lCTION UTOPIA AND AMAZING JOURNEYSv HOUSED IN THE OLD PRISON HOLDS A MASSIVE COLLECTION OF SOME ITEMS FEATURING ANTIQUARIAN BOOKS FROM AS EARLY AS THE lFTEENTH CENTURY NOTABLY A !MSTERDAM EDITION OF 4HOMAS -ORES 5TOPIA IN ,ATIN AND SCI l PAPERBACKS GALORE INCLUDING AN ARRAY OF !SIMOVS IN WHAT SEEMS LIKE ALL THE LANGUAGES OF THE WORLD #HANGING EXHIBITS MIGHT COVER FANTASY ART POSTERS OLD SCI l MAGAZINES UNPUBLISHED DRAWINGS FROM (OLLYWOOD MOVIE DESIGNERS AND SAMPLES FROM AN AMAZING COLLECTION OF TOYS
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9VERDONS TRAIN STATION IS M NORTHEAST OF THE /LD 4OWN AND ABOUT M SOUTHWEST OF THE LAKESHORE "OATS DOCK AT THE DÏBARCADÒRE ON 1UAI DE .OGENT NEAR THE RACECOURSE ITS A lFTEEN MINUTE WALK SOUTH ALONG THE 2IVER 4HIÒLE AND UNDER THE TRAIN TRACKS OR TAKE BUS TO REACH THE /LD 4OWN 4HE FOCUS OF THE /LD 4OWN IS 0LACE 0ESTALOZZI IN FRONT OF THE CASTLE WALLS 4HE TOURIST OFlCE IS BY THE STATION !VENUE DE LA 'ARE -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM !PRILn /CT ALSO 3AT AMnNOON WWWYVERDON LES BAINSCH !CCOMMODATION INCLUDES $U 4HÏÊTRE !VENUE (ALDIMAND WWWHOTELYVERDONCH A CHARACTERFUL MODERN HOTEL VERY NEAR THE TOUR IST OFlCE WITH KING SIZE BEDS AND A FRESH UNCLUTTERED FEEL .EARBY ,%CUSSON 6AUDOIS 2UE DE LA 0LAINE WWWECUSSONVAUDOISCH IS A PRETTY GOOD OPTION FEATURING ROOMS ENSUITE AND NOT AND PLEASANT STAFF ! HANDFUL OF HOTELS CLUSTER AROUND THE #ENTRE 4HERMAL ON !VENUE DES "AINS KM SOUTHEAST OF THE CENTRE INCLUDING THE FOUR STAR 'RAND (ÙTEL DES "AINS WWWGRANDHOTELYVERDONCH $ES )RIS CAMPSITE IS ON THE LAKEFRONT NORTHEAST OF THE STATION !PRILn3EPT !LL THE HOTELS ABOVE HAVE GOOD RESTAURANTS !LTERNATIVELY #RÐPERIE L!NGE "LEU 2UE DU #OLLÒGE CLOSED -ON HAS SALADS CRÐPES AND LIGHT MENUS FOR AROUND &R $ON #AMILLO 2UE DU 0RÏ CLOSED 3UN HAS EXCELLENT PIZZAPASTA DISHES AND ,A
5)& "3$ + 63"4 4 * & /
S RAY GUNS ORIGINAL 3UPERMAN DOLLS 3TAR 4REK AND 3TAR 7ARS lGURES AND MORE 9OURE WELCOME TO BROWSE THROUGH THEIR %NGLISH LIBRARY AND KICK BACK IN THEIR h'IGER #ELLv n A ROOM KITTED OUT BY !LIEN DESIGNER (2 'IGER SEE P n FOR A SPOT OF SOLO LITERARY JOURNEYING DURING THE AFTERNOON 9VERDON IS SUFlXED h LES "AINSv FOR ITS SPA WATERS YEAR OLD MINERAL SPRINGS BUBBLING UP FROM M BELOW GROUND AND RICH WITH ALL KINDS OF CURA TIVE PROPERTIES 4HE WATER EMERGES AT BETWEEN AND ª# AND IS THESE DAYS CORRALLED INTO VARIOUS INDOOR AND OUTDOOR POOLS ABOUT KM SOUTHEAST OF THE /LD 4OWN AT THE #ENTRE 4HERMAL A STATE OF THE ART COMPLEX OFF !VENUE DES "AINS -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM &R WWWCTYCH /VER A THOUSAND PEOPLE COME HERE EVERY DAY TO TAKE THE WATERS %XTRAS INCLUDE SAUNAS MASSAGES AND ANY AMOUNT OF PHYSIOTHERAPY AND INHALATION COURSES 9OU CAN EVEN DRINK THE STUFF WHICH IS BOTTLED AND SOLD AROUND 3WITZERLAND AS h!RKINAv
5IF$MFOEZTUPOFT "CPVU LN OPSUIFBTU PG :WFSEPO CFUXFFO UIF TVCVSC PG #LENDY BOE UIF MBLF TIPSF BSFSTANDINGªSTONES PSNFOIJST TPNFmWFUIPVTBOEZFBSTPME5BLFCVT UP$MFOEZ XBMLMFGU OPSUI VOEFSUIFSBJMXBZCSJEHF BOEUIFOIFBETUSBJHIUBMPOHB GPPUQBUI CFTJEF B XPPE GPS BCPVU N $VU SJHIU PO QBUIT UISPVHI UIF USFFT BOE ZPVMMFNFSHFJOUPBOFBUMZNPXODMFBSJOHTFUXJUIUIFTUPOFT 5IF$MFOEZTUPOFTXFSFSFTFUJOUIFJSPSJHJOBMQPTJUJPOTJO KVTUPOFPGNBOZ TJHOJmDBOUDMVTUFSTPG.EOLITHICTUPOFDJSDMFTBOEEPMNFOTPOUIFOPSUITIPSFPG-BD EF/FVDIÉUFM UIFHSFBUFTUDPODFOUSBUJPOPGUIFNJO4XJU[FSMBOE NPSFBSFPO-BLF (FOFWBBOEBSPVOE4JPO 5IFTFQJUUFEBOECMPUDIZTUPOFToCJH CVUOP4UPOFIFOHF o GPSN B SPVHI SIPNCPJE TIBQF XJUI B MJOF FYUFOEJOH PVU GSPN POF DPSOFS UIFJS QVSQPTF JT VOLOPXO CVU NBZ IBWF CFFO DPOOFDUFE XJUI XPSTIJQ BOEPS MFZMJOFT TJODF:WFSEPOTJUTBUBDPOKVODUJPOPGBODJFOUSPBET5IFBUNPTQIFSFPGUIFQMBDFJT UBOHJCMF CVUUIFTUPOFTOPXTUBOECFTJEFBNBJOSPBE TIJFMEFECZUSFFTGSPNBMMCVU UIFTPVOEPGNPEFSOUSBGmD
&OURCHETTE 2UE DU #ASINO OFFERS SIMPLE BUT WELL PREPARED &RENCH AND )TALIAN FAVOURITES )NTEMPOREL 2UE DU ,AC IS AN UPSTAIRS CAFÏ BAR POPULAR WITH YOUNG PEOPLE AND OPEN LATE NIGHTLY WITH TEN KINDS OF COFFEES AND TEAS PLUS SALAD MEALS
(SBOETPO 5)& "3$ + 63"4 4 * & /
]:WFSEPOMFT#BJOTBOEBSPVOE
! LAKESHORE VILLAGE KM NORTH OF 9VERDON '2!.$3/. RESONATES IN THE MIND OF EVERY 3WISS SCHOOLCHILD AS THE LOCATION OF ONE OF THE THREE GREATEST VICTORIES EVER WON BY A 3WISS ARMY AGAINST #HARLES OF "URGUNDY IN )TS CASTLE THE FOCUS OF THE BATTLE NOW HOUSES ONE OF THE BEST CASTLE MUSEUMS IN THE COUNTRY !LTHOUGH A TOWER WAS BUILT BY !DALBERT OF 'RANDSON AS EARLY AS THE MAIN BUILDINGS DATE FROM WHEN /TTO ) OF 'RANDSON RETURNED FROM THE %IGHTH #RUSADE WEALTHY ENOUGH TO BUILD A NEW CASTLE A &RANCISCAN CLOISTER IN THE VILLAGE OF WHICH THE BEAUTIFUL 2OMANESQUE 3T *EAN "APTISTE SURVIVES lVE MINUTES WALK SOUTHWEST FROM THE CASTLE UP 2UE (AUTE AND A #ARTHU SIAN MONASTERY FURTHER ALONG THE LAKE NEAR #ONCISE /TTOS TOMB IS PROMINENT WITHIN ,AUSANNE CATHEDRAL )N DURING CLASHES AS #HARLES THE "OLD DUKE OF "URGUNDY EXPANDED HIS TERRITORY AND INmUENCE THE 3WISS CONFEDERATE ARMY BESIEGED THE FORTRESS AT 'RANDSON FOR THE lRST TIME AFTER LESS THAN A MONTH THE "URGUNDIAN GARRISON SURRENDERED AND WAS ALLOWED TO ESCAPE %ARLY THE FOLLOWING YEAR ON &EBRUARY TH THE "URGUNDIAN ARMY UNDER #HARLES RETOOK THE TOWN OF 'RANDSON AND ON THE TH THE CASTLE 4REACHEROUSLY THE 3WISS GARRISON OF MEN WERE HANGED FROM THE APPLE TREES IN THE CASTLE ORCHARD 4WO DAYS LATER THE 3WISS ARMY MARCHED AGAINST #HARLES AND MET HIM IN BATTLE NORTH OF 'RANDSON LINING UP RANK AFTER RANK OF THEIR FEARED FUSILIERS PIKEMEN AND HALBERDIERS h4HE SUN WAS OPPOSITE THEM v REPORTS AN EYEWITNESS hAND THEIR WEAPONS SPARKLED LIKE MIRRORS 4HE RAISED BUGLES OF 5RI AND THE ,UZERNER BATTALION WERE BELLOWING AND THE DIN WAS SUCH THAT THE $UKES MEN TOOK FRIGHT AND BEGAN TO RETREATv 4HE 3WISS HAD NO CAVALRY TO GIVE CHASE AND SO THEY LET MOST OF THE "URGUNDIANS RUN AWAY UNSCATHED ONLY TO DISCOVER THAT THE "OLD $UKE HAD ABANDONED HIS VAST RICHES ON THE BATTLElELD DECORATED TENTS AND PRECIOUS TAPESTRIES COUNTLESS ITEMS OF GOLD AND SILVER CANNON HORSES mAGS TONS OF POWDERx BOOTY TOTALLING SEVERAL HUNDRED MILLION FRANCS AT TODAYS VALUE MUCH OF WHICH REMAINS ON DISPLAY IN 'RANDSON AND OTHER 3WISS MUSEUMS 3OON AFTERWARDS THE 3WISS DEFEATED #HARLES AGAIN AT -URTEN AND CONCLUSIVELY AT .ANCY THUS ELIMINATING THE PRINCIPAL THREAT TO THE &RENCH THRONE AND IN AT LEAST A SMALL WAY PERMITTING &RANCE INSTEAD OF "URGUNDY TO GROW AS A UNITED IMPERIAL FORCE IN THE CENTURIES FOLLOWING 5IFDBTUMF
'RANDSONS TRAIN STATION M WEST OF THE CASTLE ALONG 2UE "ASSE HAS ONLY ONE OR TWO SLOW TRAINS ON THE LINE BETWEEN ,AUSANNE AND .EUCHÊTEL VIA 9VERDON )TS BETTER TO GET THE REGULAR POSTBUS FROM 9VERDON TO 'ORGIER 3T !UBIN WHICH CAN DROP YOU IN 'RANDSONS 0LACE DU #HÊTEAU TAKES MIN OR THE BOAT !T THE CASTLE TICKET DESK -ONn3AT nAM nPM 3UN AMnPM &R 3-0 n WHICH DOUBLES AS THE TOURIST OFlCE SAME HOURS WWWGRANDSONCH n YOURE GIVEN A FOLLOW THE NUMBERS LEAmET )TS WORTH PAUSING AWHILE AT THE FOOT OF THE WALLS TO LOOK OUT OVER THE LAKE AND UP AT THE MASSIVE FORTRESS ABOVE 'RANDSON SEES A FRACTION OF THE VISITORS WHO CRAM INTO THE #HÊTEAU DE #HILLON ON ,AKE 'ENEVA AND ITS PAST LINGERS MORE TANGIBLY
5IF+VSB7BVEPJT
]5IF+VSB7BVEPJT
7EST OF 9VERDON IS A STRETCH OF HILLY COUNTRYSIDE KNOWN AS THE *URA 6AUDOIS WWWJURAVAUDOISCH CHARACTERIZED BY RUSHING STREAMS AND THE REMNANTS OF IRON WORKING INDUSTRIES WHICH EXPLOITED THEIR POWER HIDDEN VALLEYS AND ANCIENT COBBLED VILLAGES 4HE AREA LIES WHOLLY WITHIN #ANTON 6AUD HARD UP AGAINST THE &RENCH FRONTIER n ONE OF %UROPES OLDEST BORDERS UNCHANGED SINCE -AIN TOWN OF THE REGION IS 6ALLORBE POSITIONED AT THE SOUTHERN END OF A PASS THROUGH THE *URA MOUNTAINS THAT HAS BEEN USED SINCE ANTIQUITY AS A ROUTE FROM &RANCE SOUTHEAST TO THE 'RAND 3T "ERNARD PASS AND THUS INTO )TALY 2AILWAY ENGINEERS FOLLOWED THE OLD ROADS WHEN THEY CARVED A TUNNEL BENEATH THE *URA EARLY IN THE TWENTIETH CENTURY FORMING THE LAST LINK IN A CHAIN OF RAILWAYS THAT ALLOWED THE LAUNCH OF THE CLASSIC /RIENT %XPRESS TRAIN JOURNEY FROM 0ARIS TO 6ENICE AND ON TO )STANBUL 4HE SAME ROUTE THROUGH 6ALLORBE IS USED BY HIGH SPEED TRAINS TO THIS DAY 4HE *URA 6AUDOIS WAS ALSO A STOPOFF FOR MEDIEVAL PILGRIMS FOLLOWING THE #HEMIN DE 3T *ACQUES FROM 'ERMANY SOUTHWEST TO 3ANTIAGO DE #OMPOSTELA IN 3PAIN 2OMANESQUE AND 'OTHIC CHURCHES AT /RBE AND -ONTCHERAND AND THE HUGE PRIORY AT 2OMAINMÙTIER FULlLLED BOTH SPIRITUAL AND MATERIAL NEEDS ON THE JOURNEY "EHIND PARALLEL BANDS OF HILLS AND GUARDED BY HIGH PEAKS AT EITHER END THE SECLUDED 6ALLÏE DE *OUX HAS ONLY A COUPLE OF ROADS A HANDFUL OF VILLAGES AND SOME GREAT WALKING AND CROSS COUNTRY SKIING ROUTES
5)& "3$ + 63"4 4 * & /
IN THE OLD STONES "EAR IN MIND THOUGH THAT 7EDNESDAY TENDS TO BE SCHOOL TRIP DAY (IGHLIGHTS INSIDE INCLUDE THE 4ORTURE #HAMBER ROOM WITH ORIGINAL WHEEL AND EXECUTIONERS AXE AN INFORMATIVE %NGLISH LANGUAGE SLIDE SHOW ON THE HISTORY OF 'RANDSON AND THE "URGUNDIAN 7ARS IN ROOM VAST QUANTITIES OF BOOTY FROM AS WELL AS A LIFE SIZE MOCK UP OF #HARLES THE "OLDS WAR TENT ROOM THE CLAUSTROPHOBIC 0RISON ROOM AND A RAMPARTS WALK LEADING THROUGH THE VARIOUS TOWERS AND WATCH ROOMS !CCESSED BY STAIRS LEADING DOWN FROM A CORNER OF THE "ANQUETING (ALL ROOM IS AN INCONGRUOUS 6INTAGE #AR -USEUM ROOMS n WHOSE DREAM MACHINES INCLUDE 'RETA 'ARBOS WHITE 2OLLS 2OYCE 0HANTOM
4BJOUF$SPJY ! SMALL VILLAGE UP IN THE *URA KM NORTHWEST OF 9VERDON ON A STEEP AND TORTU OUS ROAD 3!).4% #2/)8S CLAIM TO FAME IS ITS YEAR HISTORY OF MAKING MUSICAL BOXES ON SHOW AT THE ABSORBING -USÏE DU #)-! #ENTRE )NTERNA TIONAL DE LA -ÏCHANIQUE D!RT 2UE DE L)NDUSTRIE GUIDED TOURS 4UESn3UN PM PM PM *UNEn!UG ALSO -ON PM 4UESn3UN AM HOURS LIMITED IN WINTER &R 3-0 WWWMUSEESCH 4HE TOURS WHICH ARE IN &RENCH WITH %NGLISH NOTES AVAILABLE LAST AN HOUR AND A QUARTER AND TAKE IN THE FULL HISTORY DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT OF THE ART WITH DEMONSTRATIONS 3OME KM WEST OF 3AINTE #ROIX IS THE VILLAGE OF ,!5"%23/. WITH n ON MUCH THE SAME LINES n THE -USÏE "AUD 'RAND 2UE *ULYn3EPT DAILY nPM REST OF YEAR 3AT nPM 3UN AMnNOON nPM &R 3-0 WWWMUSEEBAUDCH DISPLAYING A 0ARISIAN FAIR ORGAN FROM AND OTHER MUSICAL lGURINES .ORTH EAST OF 3AINTE #ROIX A SHARP EDGED RIDGE CULMINATES IN -ONT #HASSERON M ONE OF THE HIGHEST OF *URA PEAKS COMMANDING A MAJESTIC PANORAMA ACROSS THE WHOLE SWEEP OF THE DISTANT !LPS
5)& "3$ + 63"4 4 * & /
(OURLY NARROW GAUGE TRAINS CLIMB FROM 9VERDON TO 3AINTE #ROIX TERMINAT ING AT THE LOWER END OF 2UE DE L)NDUSTRIE M FROM THE -USÏE DU #)-! WHICH ALSO HOUSES THE TOURIST OFlCE -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM WWWSTE CROIXCH "USES SHUTTLE TO ,!UBERSON 7ITHIN 3AINTE #ROIX THERES A GOOD () HOSTEL 2UE #ENTRALE WWWYOUTHHOSTELCH -AYn/CT WITH SMALL DORMS FROM &R AND BIKES FOR RENT /F THE HOTELS ,ES &LEURETTES #HEMIN DES &LEURETTES WWWmEURETTESCH HAS PLAIN ROOMS AND SOME DORM BEDS WHILE THE PINE SHADED 'RAND (ÙTEL DES 2ASSES IN NEARBY ,ES 2ASSES WWW GRANDHOTELRASSESCH n HAS SPACIOUS BALCONIED ROOMS FACING SOUTH TO DRINK IN THE SUNSHINY VIEWS
7BMMPSCFBOEBSPVOE
]5IF+VSB7BVEPJT
6!,,/2"% RIGHT ON THE &RANCO 3WISS FRONTIER IS THESE DAYS JUST A STOP ON THE 4'6 LINE BETWEEN 0ARIS AND ,AUSANNE BUT IN TIMES PAST THIS SMALL RATHER AUSTERE TOWN LOOMED OVER FROM THE SOUTHWEST BY THE M HIGH $ENT DE 6AULION WAS THE CENTRE OF A THRIVING IRON INDUSTRY 4HIS IS COMMEMORATED IN THE RIVERSIDE 'RANDES &ORGES BUILDING DATING FROM AND NOW HOUSING THE -USÏE DU &ER ET DU #HEMIN DE &ER )RON AND 2AILWAY -USEUM !PRILn /CT DAILY AMnNOON nPM CLOSED -ON AM REST OF YEAR 4UESn&RI SAME HOURS &R 3-0 4HE MAIN DRAW IS THE WORKING SMITHY POWERED BY WATERWHEELS ON THE 2IVER /RBE OUTSIDE 5PSTAIRS IS THE RAILWAY SECTION WHERE MEMORABILIA FROM THE 6ENICE 3IMPLON /RIENT %XPRESS DO WELL TO RESURRECT THE EXOTICISM OF EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURY TRAIN TRAVEL 4HERES ALSO A LENGTHY n AND RATHER GOOD n SLIDE SHOW IN &RENCH ONLY BUT YOU CAN STILL ENJOY THE PICTURES DETAILING THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE TUNNEL FROM 6ALLORBE THROUGH THE *URA &ROM 9VERDON SEVERAL FAST BUSES A DAY RUN TO 6ALLORBE BEATING THE TRAIN 6ALLORBES TRAIN STATION IS PERCHED ON A TERRACE HIGH ABOVE THE TOWN ITS A TEN MINUTE WALK DOWN TO THE TOURIST OFlCE WWWVALLORBE CH IN THE SAME BUILDING AS THE MUSEUM 4HEIR &R #ARTE 4RÒmE COVERS ENTRY TO THE -USÏE DU &ER THE 'ROTTES AND THE 0RÒ 'IROUD FORT SEE BELOW !CCOMMODATION IS BASIC GO FOR THE !UBERGE 0OUR 4OUS HOSTEL 2UE DU 3IMPLON WWWAUBERGEPOURTOUSCH WITH GOOD DORMS FROM &R 4HE MAIN STREET 'RAND 2UE HAS PLENTY OF INEXPENSIVE EATING AND DRINKING OPTIONS INCLUDING THE PLEASANT ,E &RANCE BRASSERIEPIZZERIA AT NO AND COSY #AFÏ DE LA 0OSTE ON PARALLEL 2UE DE L!NCIENNE 0OSTE "SPVOE7BMMPSCF
-ORE REWARDING THAN 6ALLORBE ITSELF IS THE WILD AND LARGELY UNVISITED COUNTRYSIDE AROUND AND ABOUT ,OCAL TRAINS AND BUSES GO EVERYWHERE BUT THEYRE RATHER LESS CONVENIENT THAN YOUR OWN TRANSPORT *UST OVER KM SOUTHWEST OF 6ALLORBE ARE SOME CAVES ,ES 'ROTTES DE 6ALLORBE !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM *UNEn!UG UNTIL PM &R REPLETE WITH STALACTITES AND STALAGMITES AND AN EXHIBITION OF MINERALS DUBBED ,E 4RÏSOR DES &ÏES &AIRY 4REASURE 3OME FORTY MINUTES WALK FROM ,E $AY TRAIN STATION JUST OUTSIDE 6ALLORBE IS THE &ORT DE 0RÏ 'IROUD *ULY !UG DAILY NOONnPM -AY *UNE 3EPT /CT 3AT 3UN SAME TIMES &R 3-0 AN EXTENSIVE MILI TARY COMPLEX DUG INTO A HILLSIDE IN TO DEFEND AGAINST POSSIBLE INCURSION BY ENEMY FORCES OVER THE NEARBY #OL DE *OUGNE FROM &RANCE !N INNOCU OUS CHALET ON THE SURFACE HIDES VERTICAL SHAFTS GIVING ACCESS TO A SUBTERRANEAN BUNKER COMPLETE WITH KITCHEN DORMS AND A HOSPITAL CAPABLE OF SUPPORTING PEOPLE
5)& "3$ + 63"4 4 * & /
]5IF+VSB7BVEPJT
2/-!).-½4)%2 A SMALL VILLAGE IN A SECLUDED VALLEY ABOUT KM EAST OF 6ALLORBE NEAR #ROY HAS MANAGED TO PRESERVE IN NEAR MINT CONDITION ITS lNE 2OMANESQUE PRIORY CHURCH 3WITZERLANDS OLDEST MONASTERY WAS FOUNDED ON THE SAME SITE IN ABOUT AND THE CURRENT BUILDING WAS CONSTRUCTED BY #LUNIAC MONKS IN n 4HE CHURCH DAILY AMnPM IS APPROACHED FROM THE PICTURESQUE VILLAGE STREET BENEATH AN EVEN MORE PICTURESQUE FOURTEENTH CENTURY CLOCK TOWER !S YOU ENTER YOU PASS INTO THE HARMONIOUS NAVE WITH ITS MASSIVE PIERS AND A VIVIDLY PAINTED THIRTEENTH CENTURY VAULT /N THE LEFT OF THE CHOIR AND CHANCEL WITH FOURTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES IS THE SEPARATE #HAPEL OF THE (OLY 6IRGIN WITH A BEAUTIFUL MEDIEVAL STATUE OF -ARY 4HE REMAINS OF THE CLOISTER RUN ALONG THE OUTSIDE OF THE SOUTH WALL #ONTINUING THE ECCLESIASTICAL THEME -/.4#(%2!.$ A TRANQUIL VILLAGE KM NORTHEAST OF 2OMAINMÙTIER WITH A VIEW OVER THE /RBE VALLEY SHELTERS A SMALL BUT NOTABLE TENTH CENTURY CHURCH DAILY AMnPM /CTn!PRIL CLOSES PM )TS MOST STRIKING FEATURE IS A SET OF TWELFTH CENTURY FRESCOES IN THE APSE DEPICTING THE SAINTS 0AULUS )THOS !NDREAS *ACOBUS -ATIAS AND &ILIPUS STANDING SHOULDER TO SHOULDER IN BRILLIANTLY RESTORED COLOURS /2"% HALFWAY BETWEEN 6ALLORBE AND 9VERDON ON THE BUS OR TRAIN IS A PICTURESQUE OLD TOWN UP ON A ROCK WITH STEEP COBBLED STREETS AND ANOTHER ATMOSPHERIC CHURCH A lVE NAVED EFFORT DATING FROM THE lFTEENTH CENTURY /RBE WAS KNOWN TO THE 2OMANS AS 5RBA AND KM NORTH OF THE TOWN AT "OSCÏAZ NEAR THE JUNCTION OF THE AUTOROUTE AND HIGHWAY ARE SOME OF THE BEST 2OMAN MOSAICS TO BE SEEN IN 3WITZERLAND %ASTERn/CT -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM 3AT 3UN nPM &R WWWORBECH .EAREST TO THE TICKET HUT IS 0AVILLON )6 SHELTERING HEXAGONAL MOSAICS OF GODS AND GODDESSES WITH THE CENTRAL MEDAL LIONS SHOWING THE DEITIES OF THE SEVEN DAYS OF THE WEEK &URTHER ON 0AVILLON ))) HAS A COUNTRYSIDE PROCESSION LED BY A TRUMPETER AND 0AVILLON )) DISPLAYS AN INTRIGUINGLY COMPLEX MOSAIC MAZE %XCAVATIONS ARE ONGOING
5IF7BMMÏFEF+PVY !BOUT KM SOUTHWEST OF 6ALLORBE THE SHARP $ENT DE 6AULION RISES TO M STANDING GUARD OVER THE SECLUDED 6ALLÏE DE *OUX A LONG THIN VALLEY SANDWICHED AT M BETWEEN THE 'RAND 2ISOUD PINE FOREST WHICH CONCEALS IT FROM &RANCE AND THE PARALLEL -ONT 4ENDRE RANGE WHICH CUTS IT OFF FROM ,AKE 'ENEVA 4HIS IS PERFECT SUMMER WALKING COUNTRY WITH MANY ROUTES ALONG THE VALLEY mOOR BESIDE THE ,AC DE *OUX WHILE THE THICKLY WOODED VALLEY SIDES TURN INTO CROSS COUNTRY SKIING HEAVEN IN WINTER 4HE VALLEY HAS ITS OWN BRACING MICROCLIMATE REMINISCENT OF !LPINE AREAS M HIGHER IN ALTITUDE TEMPERATURES OF ª# ON THE VALLEY mOOR ARE NOT UNKNOWN IN WINTER AND PRECIPITATION TOPS MM A YEAR (IGH WINDS CAN ALSO RIP THEIR WAY ALONG THE VALLEY )TS NO SURPRISE THAT THE lRST PEOPLE TO CONSIDER SETTLING IN THE VALLEY WERE ASCETIC MONKS EVEN BY THERE WERE STILL JUST INHABITANTS PLUS BEARS "ETWEEN THE SMALL ,AC "RENET AND ,AC DE *OUX IS ,% 0/.4 VILLAGE )N FRONT OF THE TRAIN STATION IS WHATS LEFT OF A COLOSSAL HANGAR USED BETWEEN AND TO STORE ICE WHICH WAS HACKED FROM THE LAKES AND THEN TRANSPORTED BY FAST TRAIN TO 0ARIS ,YON AND 'ENEVA )N THE HANGAR WAS SOMEHOW GUTTED BY lRE 2OADS RUN WEST FROM ,E 0ONT ALONG BOTH SHORES OF THE ,AC DE *OUX THE SOUTH ROAD PASSES THROUGH ,!BBAYE WITH RUINS OF A MEDIEVAL ABBEY "OTH ROADS MEET AT THE END OF THE LAKE AT ,% 3%.4)%2 CHIEF TOWN OF THE VALLEY AND A ONE TIME WATCHMAKING CENTRE TO RIVAL THOSE IN THE .EUCHÊTEL MOUN TAINS SUCH PRESTIGIOUS NAMES AS !UDEMARS 0IGUET "LANCPAIN AND "REGUET STILL MAKE WATCHES IN THIS VALLEY 4HE %SPACE (ORLOGER 'RAND 2UE 4UESn3UN
nPM &R 3-0 WWWESPACEHORLOGERCH HAS A lNE COLLECTION OF HISTORIC TIMEPIECES ,% "2!3353 KM SOUTHWEST IS PRETTY QUIET AND BOASTS NOTHING AT ALL TO DIVERT YOU FROM THE WILDS OF NATURE ALL AROUND &ROM HERE ALL THE WAY SOUTHWEST TO THE #OL DE LA 'IVRINE ABOVE .YON IS THE 0ARC *URASSIEN 6AUDOIS WWWPARC JURASSIENCH 3WITZERLANDS SECOND LARGEST PROTECTED NATURAL ENVIRONMENT 1SBDUJDBMJUJFT 5)& "3$ + 63"4 4 * & /
]5IF#SPZF
4RAINS FROM 6ALLORBE CONNECTING WITH SERVICES FROM ,AUSANNE AT ,E $AY RUN ALONG THE NORTH SHORE OF THE ,AC DE *OUX TERMINATING AT ,E "RASSUS /NE BOAT A DAY IN SUMMER DOES A CIRCULAR CRUISE OF THE LAKE TO AND FROM ,E 0ONT ! ROAD FROM ,E "RASSUS OPEN SUMMER ONLY SURFS OVER THE MOUNTAINS AT -ARCHAIRUZ BEFORE DROPPING DOWN TO ,AKE 'ENEVA 4HE TOURIST OFlCE FOR THE VALLEY IS IN THE SPORTS CENTRE AT THE SOUTHERN END OF ,E 3ENTIER DAILY AMnNOON nPM WWWVALLEEDEJOUX CH 4HEY HAVE PLENTY OF MAPS AND INFORMATION FOR WALKERS 9OU CAN RENT ICE SKATES HERE &R FOR EITHER THE INDOOR ICE STADIUM ADMISSION &R OR WHEN EVERYONE IS SKATING ON IT THE LAKE ITSELF 4HEY ALSO HAVE MOUNTAIN BIKES &R DAY KAYAKS &RHALF DAY A CLIMBING WALL TENNIS COURTS AND EVEN PLAIN DORMS &R &OR HOTELS ,A ,ANDE WWWHOTELLALANDE COM n IN ,E "RASSUS IS FRESH AND PLEASANT AS IS (ÙTEL DE 6ILLE DE ,!BBAYE WWWHOTELABBAYECH IN ,!BBAYE #AMP YEAR ROUND AT ,E 2OCHERAY IN ,E 3ENTIER %ATING AND DRINKING IS A HOTEL EXPERIENCE BUT FOR A FEW BRASSERIES IN ,E 0ONT AND ,E "RASSUS
5IF#SPZF 4HE MELLOW COUNTRYSIDE BETWEEN 9VERDON AND "ERN IS NAMED AFTER THE 2IVER "ROYE WHICH mOWS GENTLY THROUGH THE AREA .OT A GREAT DEAL HAPPENS HERE AND ITS PERFECT CYCLING COUNTRY REASONABLY mAT WITH PLENTY OF SMALL VILLAGES AND THE SHORES OF BOTH THE ,AC DE .EUCHÊTEL AND THE -URTENSEE ,AC DE -ORAT TO EXPLORE %STAVAYER LE ,AC IS A LAKESIDE RESORT TOWN WITH PEACE AND QUIET AS ITS MAIN ATTRIBUTES NEARBY 0AYERNE IS HOME TO A SPLENDID 2OMANESQUE ABBEY WHILE !VENCHES WAS ONCE THE CAPITAL OF 2OMAN 3WITZERLAND AND HAS PLENTY FOR RUIN HUNTERS TO ENJOY -URTEN-ORAT ON THE LINE WHERE &RENCH SPEAK ING 7ESTERN %UROPE MEETS 'ERMAN SPEAKING #ENTRAL %UROPE IS A VARIATION ON THE THEME OF ATTRACTIVE BUT STAID LAKESIDE RESORTS WITH WELL PRESERVED MEDIEVAL CENTRES
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%34!6!9%2 ,% ,!# IS A PICTURESQUE LITTLE YACHTIES TOWN ON THE ,AC DE .EUCHÊTEL KM NORTHEAST OF 9VERDON WITH PLENTY OF MEDIEVAL ARCHITECTURE THE TOWN CENTRE HAS REMAINED LARGELY UNCHANGED SINCE 4ODAY IT OCCUPIES A LITTLE ENCLAVE OF #ANTON &RIBOURG SURROUNDED ON THREE SIDES BY 6AUD )T TRADES ON TWO FEATURES THE TOWN MUSEUM WHICH HAS A COLLECTION OF STUFFED FROGS AND THE CLIMBING ROSES WHICH COVER ITS ANCIENT STONES THROUGHOUT THE SUMMER GIVING THE PLACE ITS NICKNAME OF THE #ITY OF THE 2OSE )TS A TEN MINUTE WALK FROM THE STATION NORTHWEST ALONG 2OUTE DE LA 'ARE TO 0LACE DU -IDI ON THE EDGE OF THE /LD 4OWN (EADING EAST FROM HERE TAKES YOU PAST THE (ÙTEL DE 6ILLE TO THE 'OTHIC ³GLISE 3T ,AURENT FROM WHERE TURN LEFT NORTH TO REACH 0LACE DE -OUDON THE MEDIEVAL MARKETPLACE WHICH FORMERLY
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OU MIGHT EXPECT "!3%, "ÊLE IN &RENCH AND OFTEN ANGLICIZED TO "ASLE SITUATED ON THE 2HINE EXACTLY WHERE 3WITZERLAND 'ERMANY AND &RANCE TOUCH NOSES TO BE THE FOCAL POINT OF THE CONTINENT HUMMING WITH PAN %UROPEAN ENERGY "ASELS VOTERS ARE THE MOST FERVENTLY PRO %UROPEAN OF ALL 3WITZERLANDS 'ERMAN SPEAKERS BUT SOMEHOW THE CLOSE PROXIMITY OF FOREIGN LANGUAGES AND CULTURES HAS INTROVERTED THE CITY RATHER THAN ENERGIZED IT "ASEL IS A CURIOUSLY MEASURED PLACE WHERE EQUILIBRIUM IS EVERYTHING 9OU WONT lND ANYONE SHOUTING ABOUT THE NEW %UROPE HERE IN FACT YOURE UNLIKELY TO lND ANYONE SHOUTING ABOUT ANYTHING AT ALL %VEN THE CITYS MASSIVE CARNIVAL IS A RIGOROUSLY ORGANIZED SET PIECE 7ITH BOTH A GIGANTIC RIVER PORT n 3WITZERLANDS ONLY OUTLET TO THE SEA n AND THE RESEARCH HEADQUARTERS OF SEVERAL PHARMACEUTICAL MULTINATIONALS "ASEL NURTURES ITS REPUTATION AS 3WITZERLANDS WEALTHIEST AND MOST DISCREET CITY )TS HISTORIC CENTRE DOMINATED BY THE AWE INSPIRING -àNSTER IS DElNITELY WORTH SEEING AND THE CITYS LONG STANDING PATRONAGE OF THE ARTS HAS RESULTED IN DOZENS OF lRST RATE MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES INCLUDING THE STUNNING &ONDATION "EYELER !ND YET BEQUEATHED A GLITTERING MEDIEVAL PAST ENDOWED WITH SOME OF THE GREATEST MINDS OF %UROPEAN HISTORY %RASMUS (OLBEIN AND .IETZSCHE TO NAME JUST THREE AND CENTURIES LONG ACCESS TO THE BEST OF THREE NEIGHBOURING WORLDS ITS ALMOST AS IF "ASLERS LOST THE PLOT WHEN IT CAME TO DElNING THEIR CITY FOR TODAY -OST SEEM TO BACK THE STANDARD 3WISS DEFAULT OPTION OF GATHERING WEALTH IN A DISCREET AND ORDERLY FASHION SAVING MONEY SHOPPING IN &RANCE AND HAVING A BETTER TIME PARTYING IN 'ERMANY 7HICH IS ALL VERY WELL BUT IT TENDS TO LEAVE THEIR OWN CITY RATHER BEREFT IN THE PROCESS NO TOWN IN 3WITZERLAND IS HARDER FOR OUTSIDERS TO PENETRATE !NOTHER mY IN THE OINTMENT WAS THE h.AZI GOLDv CONTROVERSY OF RECENT YEARS SEE #ONTEXTS P IN WHICH IT WAS INDICATED THAT "ASEL n AND MORE SPECIlCALLY THE LITTLE KNOWN BUT EXTREMELY POWERFUL "ANK FOR )NTERNATIONAL 3ETTLEMENTS HEADQUARTERED IN THE CITY n SPENT THE S AND S QUIETLY LAUNDERING THE .AZIS ILL GOTTEN GAINS UNDER A CLOAK OF NEUTRALITY %VIDENCE OF SUCH MURKY BANKING PRACTICE WAS RECEIVED WITH SHOCK ANGER AND DISBELIEF IN "ASEL AND AROUND THE COUNTRY AND HAS YET TO BE FULLY ACCEPTED 5NACCUSTOMED TO BEING FACED WITH POINTING lNGERS "ASLERS MAY TAKE SOME DECADES TO ASSESS AND ABSORB THE ACCUSATIONS
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FACING INTO THE CHURCH THE HIGHLIGHT OF THE GROUND mOOR IS THE COLLECTION OF SUMPTUOUS lFTEENTH CENTURY TAPESTRIES PRESS THE BUTTON TO RAISE THE PROTECTIVE BLIND SHIELDING EACH ONE THESE VIVID WALL SIZED PIECES WERE WOVEN TO DECORATE PRIVATE HOUSES AND CHURCHES SPECIlCALLY IN "ASEL AND 3TRASBOURG AND ARE EXCEP TIONALLY RARE BOTH FOR THEIR ARTISTIC QUALITY AND THEIR EXCELLENT CONDITION 4HEIR IMAGERY FREQUENTLY CONCENTRATES ON WOODSMEN FABULOUS ANIMALS AND COURTLY LOVERS n ONLY THREE OF THE SIXTEEN PIECES SHOW RELIGIOUS IMAGERY n AND ONE OF THE BEST IS NO FROM THE ALLEGORICAL 'ARDEN OF ,OVE SHOWING TWO LOVERS PLAYING CARDS INSIDE A SUMMER PAVILION 4HE MAN HAS JUST SLAPPED DOWN A CARD WITH THE WORDS h4HAT LAST PLAY OF YOURS WAS A GOOD ONE v WHILE THE WOMAN NODS IN ANTICIPATORY TRIUMPH h!ND ITS WON ME THE GAMEv $OWNSTAIRS YOULL lND AN EXCELLENT DETAILED SURVEY OF "ASELS HISTORY INCLUDING A BOARD LOCATING ANCIENT BUILDINGS MAPS AND GLOBES GALORE THE ORIGINAL ,ËLLEKEENIG SEE P AND BEDCHAMBERS AND ELABORATE WOOD PANELLED ROOMS FROM THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY (EAD TO THE BACK AND YOULL COME ACROSS A SIDE
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ROOM DISPLAYING THE TREASURY OF "ASEL CATHEDRAL INCLUDING TWO STUNNING SILVER AND COPPER BUSTS DATING FROM n OF 3T 0ANTALUS NO AND WITH AN EVEN ALMOND EYED GAZE A "UDDHIC 3T 5RSULA NO !NOTHER HIGHLIGHT IS A SERIES OF PAINTINGS SHOWING THE $ANCE OF $EATH 4HE SEQUENCE ORIGINALLY FORMED PART OF A SIXTY METRE LONG MURAL WHICH COVERED THE INSIDE OF THE CEMETERY WALL OF "ASELS $OMINICAN CONVENT UNTIL ITS DEMOLITION IN 4HE MURAL DEPICTS IN A GRAPHIC REMINDER OF HUMAN MORTALITY AN ARRAY OF PEOPLE OF ALL DIFFERENT AGES AND PROFESSIONS ON A MACABRE PROCESSION WHICH LEADS EVENTU ALLY TO THE CEMETERYS CHARNEL HOUSE #"4 & - "/%"306/%
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.BSLUQMBU[BOEBSPVOE 3HOP LINED 'ERBERGASSE AND &REIESTRASSE AS WELL AS A DENSE NETWORK OF NARROW SLOPING MEDIEVAL ALLEYS SUCH AS 3CHNEIDERGASSE 4AILOR 3TREET 3ATTELGASSE 3ADDLE 3TREET AND )MBERGËSSLEIN 'INGER !LLEY RUN NORTH FROM "ARFàSSERPLATZ TO -ARKTPLATZ THE /LD 4OWNS OTHER MAIN SQUARE CROWDED EVERY MORNING WITH FRUIT AND VEG STALLS ,IGHTING UP THE BROAD RECTANGULAR SPACE WITH A SPLASH OF EYE CATCHING COLOUR IS THE ELABORATE SCARLET FACADE OF THE 2ATHAUS 4OWN (ALL THE CENTRAL ARCADED SECTION SIXTEENTH CENTURY THE TOWER AND SIDE ANNEXE BOTH LATE NINETEENTH CENTURY &EEL FREE TO WANDER INTO THE FRESCOED INTERIOR COURTYARD !T THE NORTHERN END OF -ARKTPLATZ IS THE SMALL &ISCHMARKT WITH ITS CENTRAL FOUNTAIN JUST BEYOND WHICH IS 3CHIFmËNDE AT THE SOUTHERN END OF THE -ITTLERE "RàCKE A MODERN CONSTRUCTION AT THE SITE OF WHAT WAS FOR CENTURIES THE ONLY BRIDGE OVER THE 2HINE BETWEEN THE "ODENSEE ,AKE #ONSTANCE AND THE .ORTH 3EA /N A FACADE LOOKING ALONG THE BRIDGE YOULL SPOT AN ODD LITTLE BUST OF A BEARDED MAN THIS IS THE ,ËLLEKEENIG OR 4ONGUE +ING 4HE ORIGINAL ,ËLLEKEENIG ADORNED THE GATE OF THE BRIDGE FROM THE MID SEVENTEENTH CENTURY GREETING ALL ARRIVALS TO THE CITY UNTIL THE GATES DEMOLITION IN AND HAD A CLOCKWORK MOTOR SO THAT HE ROLLED HIS EYES AND STUCK OUT HIS TONGUE IN TIME WITH THE TICKING (E WAS PROBABLY MADE TO DEMON STRATE WHAT 'ROSSBASLERS THOUGHT OF THEIR DOWN AT HEEL +LEINBASEL NEIGHBOURS BUT THESE DAYS THE CITY IS UNITED THE CLOCKWORK ORIGINAL IS IN THE (ISTORISCHES -USEUM AND THE ,ËLLEKEENIG STILL STARING ALONG THE BRIDGE IS A STATIC COPY &ROM -ARKTPLATZ AND &ISCHMARKT QUIET OLD LANES CLIMB STEEPLY WEST TOWARDS THE FORMER CITY WALLS UP HERE ARE THE 'OTHIC 0ETER SKIRCHE 4UESn3UN AMnPM ON 0ETERSGRABEN THE PLAIN EXTERIOR OF WHICH HARBOURS LATE MEDIEVAL FRES COES AND MORE OR LESS OPPOSITE "ASELS UNIVERSITY CAMPUS !MONG MANY FAMOUS NAMES CONNECTED WITH THE UNIVERSITY .IETZSCHE TAUGHT CLASSICAL PHILOSOPHY HERE ©5 2ATHAUS©COURTYARD
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FROM TO 4HE NARROW 3PALENVORSTADT LEADS WEST TO THE 3PALENTOR MOST ELABORATE OF THE SURVIVING CITY GATES WITH MASSIVE WOODEN DOORS AND A HUGE PORT CULLIS .IETZSCHE LIVED ROUND THE CORNER AT 3CHàTZENGRABEN 4HE SMALL *àDISCHES -USEUM DER 3CHWEIZ +ORNHAUSGASSE *EWISH -USEUM -ON 7ED nPM 3UN AMnPM FREE WWWIGB CH DISPLAYS GRAVESTONE FRAGMENTS WITH (EBREW INSCRIPTIONS WHICH DATE BACK TO AS WELL AS INTERESTING HISTORICAL ITEMS FROM RELIGIOUS AND EVERYDAY *EWISH LIFE 4HEIR SHORT VIDEO IN %NGLISH ON THE HISTORY OF THE *EWS IN "ASEL IS EXCELLENT "OTH ,EONHARDSGRABEN AND THE LOVELY (EUBERG TRICKLE ON THROUGH AN OLD RESIDENTIAL QUARTER TO THE BEAUTIFUL ,EONHARDSKIRCHE A 'OTHIC CONSTRUCTION BUILT AFTER THE GREAT EARTHQUAKE WITH PORT ©5 #LOISTER©OF©THE©-ŘNSTER HOLED WINDOWS AND AN ELABORATE CATS CRADLE OF VAULTING WITHIN 4HE GALLERY IS ACCESSIBLE BUT ONLY UP THE TIGHTEST NARROWEST SPIRAL STAIRCASE IMAGINABLE "ARFàSSERPLATZ IS JUST DOWN THE HILL
5IF.àOTUFS 3IXTEENTH CENTURY LANES LEAD UP BEHIND "ARFàSSERPLATZ TO "ASELS CATHEDRAL THE IMPRESSIVE -àNSTER %ASTERn/CT -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM REST OF YEAR -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM BUILT IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY OF RED SANDSTONE WITH A PATTERNED ROOF AND REBUILT FOLLOWING AN EARTH QUAKE IN 4HE TOWER OF 3T 'EORGE ON THE LEFT OF THE MAIN FRONTAGE HAS SOME WHITE STONEWORK DATING FROM THE ORIGINAL CHURCH CONSECRATED IN AS WELL AS A THIRTEENTH CENTURY STATUE OF THE SAINT IMPALING A DRAGON 3TONE CARV ING FROM ABOVE THE MAIN PORTAL SHOWS THE CATHEDRALS FOUNDER %MPEROR (EINRICH )) HOLDING A MODEL OF THE CHURCH WITH HIS WIFE +UNIGUNDE TO THE LEFT 4O THE RIGHT IS A &OOLISH 6IRGIN WITH HER 3ATANIC SEDUCER )NSIDE THE NORTH AISLE HOLDS THE TOMB OF THE 2ENAISSANCE HUMANIST %RASMUS #LOSE BY IS THE 3T 6INCENT PANEL A 2OMANESQUE RELIEF FROM AROUND TELL ING THE STORY OF THE MARTYR WHO WAS KILLED IN !$ ON THE TOP LEFT 6INCENT SPEAKS UP FOR HIS BISHOP AND IS mOGGED FOR IT TO THE RIGHT HE IS TORTURED AND LED INTO A FURNACE BELOW ANGELS CARRY HIS SOUL TO HEAVEN WHILE RAVENS PROTECT HIS BODY BEFORE IT IS DUMPED AT SEA RETRIEVED AND BURIED IN A PROPER TOMB 4HE LACY PULPIT WAS CARVED n INCREDIBLY n FROM A SINGLE BLOCK OF STONE IN /N THE NORTH SIDE OF THE CHOIR WHICH HAS SOME INTRICATE CAPITALS IS THE TOMB OF 1UEEN !NNA WIFE OF 2UDOLF OF (ABSBURG WHO CHOSE TO BE BURIED IN "ASEL ALONGSIDE HER THREE YEAR OLD SON +ARL IN AN ATTEMPT TO MAKE UP FOR HER HUSBANDS CRUELTY WHILST RULING THE TOWN DURING THE S )N THE CRYPT YOULL lND NINTH CENTURY REMAINS OF AN EARLIER CATHEDRAL ALONG WITH SOME LATE 2OMANESQUE FRESCOES
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/NE OF THE HIGHLIGHTS OF "ASEL IS A WANDER THROUGH THE MEMORABLY ATMOS PHERIC CLOISTERS ADJOINING THE CATHEDRAL TO THE SOUTH lLLED TO BURSTING POINT WITH TIMEWORN TOMBS AND MEMORIAL STONES 9OU EMERGE ONTO THE 0FALZ AN OPEN TREE LINED TERRACED BASTION BEHIND THE CATHEDRAL CHOIR WHICH OVERLOOKS THE 2HINE AND GIVES VIEWS AS FAR AS THE "LACK &OREST #ARVED ELEPHANTS AND GROTESQUE CREATURES SUPPORT THE EXTERNAL ARCHES OF THE CHOIR AND ROUND THE CORNER ON THE NORTH SIDE OF THE CHURCH IS THE 3T 'ALLUS $OORWAY A RICH PIECE OF 2OMANESQUE CARVING WITH #HRIST AT TOP CENTRE 4RANQUIL ALLEYS RUN NORTHWEST FROM -àNSTERPLATZ AMONGST THEM !UGUSTINER GASSE WITH AT NO THE -USEUM DER +ULTUREN 4UESn3UN AMnPM &R 3-0 WWWMKBCH HOUSING A MASSIVE ANTHROPOLOGICAL COLLECTION AND SEPA RATELY IN THE SAME BUILDING THE EQUALLY DAUNTING .ATURHISTORISCHES -USEUM SAME HOURS AND TICKET 3-0 WWWNMBCH 4HE NARROW LANE 2HEINSPRUNG LEADS ON TO THE 3T -ARTINSKIRCHE WITH BESIDE IT THE LITTLE %LFTAUSENDJUNGFERN 'ASSE OR !LLEY OF THE %LEVEN 4HOUSAND 6IRGINS )TS CURIOUS NAME COMMEMORATES THE MARTYRDOM IN #OLOGNE OF 3T 5RSULA AND HER LEGENDARY COMPANY OF FEMALE SUPPORTERS 4HE TINY LANE FEEDS DOWN TO THE -ITTLERE "RàCKE
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&BTUPG#BSGàTTFSQMBU[ &ROM "ARFàSSERPLATZ 3TEINENBERG CLIMBS EAST ! SHORT WAY UP PAST THE SPUTTERING 4INGUELY FOUNTAIN IN THE GROUNDS OF THE THEATRE IS THE +UNSTHALLE 4UES 7EDS &RI AMnPM 4HURS AMnPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM &R WWW KUNSTHALLEBASELCH ITS BIG WHITE ROOMS STAGING A CONTINUAL mOW OF CUTTING EDGE CONTEMPORARY ART SHOWS 4HE SAME BUILDING HOUSES THE !RCHITEKTURMU SEUM SAME HOURS TICKET WWWARCHITEKTURMUSEUMCH SHOWCASING THE ACHIEVEMENTS OF 3WISS AND INTERNATIONAL CONTEMPORARY ARCHITECTS /NE OF "ASELS MOST IMPRESSIVE RECENT BUILDINGS IS THE :ENTRALSTELLWERK A GIANT SIGNAL BOX SITTING BESIDE THE TRAIN TRACKS ALONGSIDE THE -àNCHENSTEINERBRàCKE TAKE TRAM OR FROM THE JUNCTION OUTSIDE THE MUSEUM A COUPLE OF STOPS PAST 3"" STATION $ESIGNED BY AWARD WINNING 3WISS ARCHITECTS (ERZOG AND DE -EURON IT IS A MESMERIZING STRUCTURE ENCASED IN SHIMMERING TWISTED COPPER SHEETS !T THE TOP OF 3TEINENBERG 3T !LBAN 'RABEN HEADS NORTHEAST TO THE RIVER 4HE VENERABLE !NTIKENMUSEUM IS AT NO 4UESn3UN AMnPM &R 3-0 WWWANTIKENMUSEUMBASELCH #HRONOLOGICAL DISPLAYS BEGIN ON THE TOP mOOR AND WORK DOWNWARDS WITH SUPERB 'REEK AND %TRUSCAN POTTERY STANDING OUT ON EVERY mOOR 4HE UPPER mOOR VESTIBULE OF (OUSE " HAS A SET OF FOURTH CENTURY "# mOOR STANDING FUNERARY VASES FROM !PULIA IN SOUTHERN )TALY ONE OF WHICH IS PAINTED WITH AN ENTERTAINING SCENE OF THREE MEN STEALING HONEY AND BEING CHASED BY A SWARM OF BEES 4HE BASEMENT HOLDS TEMPORARY EXHIBITIONS OFTEN OF %GYPTIAN OR -IDDLE %ASTERN ANTIQUITIES 5IF,VOTUNVTFVN
"ASELS WORLD FAMOUS +UNSTMUSEUM IS AT 3T !LBAN 'RABEN 4UESn3UN AMnPM &R ALSO GIVES ENTRY TO -USEUM FàR 'EGENWARTSKUNST FREE ON ST 3UN OF MONTH 3-0 WWWKUNSTMUSEUMBASELCH )TS A RATHER STERN .EOCLASSICAL BUILDING n ALL MARBLE mOORS HIGH CEILINGS AND GRAND STAIRCASES n WHICH TENDS TO DO THE ART DOWN A BIT BUT DONT LET YOURSELF BE PUT OFF 4HERES A DAZZLING ARRAY OF TWENTIETH CENTURY ART INCLUDING $ALIS NIGHTMARISH 0ERSPECTIVES ROOMFULS OF PAINTINGS BY !RP +LEE ,ÏGER -UNCH "RAQUE AND THE )MPRESSIONISTS A FANTASTICALLY ATTENUATED CAT BY 'IACOMETTI AND mUID SCULPTURES IN WOOD BY +IRCHNER AND 3CHERER )N THE "ASEL ELECTORATE VOTED TO USE
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&R MILLION OF PUBLIC FUNDS TO BUY TWO 0ICASSOS FOR THE MUSEUM !RLEQUIN ASSIS AND ,ES DEUX FRÒRES n AND THEN STUMPED UP ANOTHER &R MILLION TO GUARANTEE THE PURCHASE 4HE ARTIST WAS SO IMPRESSED BY THIS POPULAR ENTHUSIASM THAT HE PERSONALLY DONATED FOUR MORE WORKS 4HE GALLERYS MODERN ART AND ITS LARGE COLLECTION OF NINETEENTH CENTURY 'ERMAN &RENCH AND 3WISS PAINTING IS HOWEVER OVERSHADOWED BY ITS VAST AND ABSORBING MEDIEVAL COLLECTION $OZENS OF ROOMS ARE DEVOTED TO WORKS BY THE PROLIlC (OLBEIN FAMILY IN PARTICULAR INCLUDING THE EXTRAORDINARY TWO METRE LONG "ODY OF THE $EAD #HRIST IN THE 4OMB A PAINTING WHICH OBSESSED $OSTOEVSKY WHEN HE VISITED THE MUSEUM ON !UGUST (E CLIMBED ON A CHAIR TO GET A BETTER VIEW OF IT AND THEN STARTED TO YELL h(OLBEIN WAS A GREAT PAINTER AND A POETv (IS WIFE WHO THOUGHT HE WAS ABOUT TO HAVE A lT HAD TO USHER HIM FROM THE ROOM 4HE WORK SUBSEQUENTLY POPPED UP IN $OSTOEVSKYS NOVEL 4HE )DIOT WHEN A CHARACTERS RECOLLECTIONS OF IT LEAD HIM TO QUESTION THE EXISTENCE OF 'OD
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!N ANNEXE THE 3CHAULAGER WWWSCHAULAGERORG n A VAST CONCRETE BOX DESIGNED BY (ERZOG AND DE -EURON LOCATED SOUTH OF THE CENTRE AT 2UCHFELD STRASSE TRAM n HOLDS PART OF THE COLLECTION IN STORAGE ACCESSIBLE ONLY FOR RESEARCHERS AND DURING OCCASIONAL PUBLIC SHOWS ! STROLL AWAY IN A RESTORED MEDIEVAL WATERFRONT MILL AT 3T !LBAN 4AL IS THE "ASLER 0APIERMàHLE "ASEL 0APERMILL HOUSING THE WONDERFUL 3CHWEIZERISCHES 0APIERMUSEUM UND -USEUM FàR 3CHRIFT UND $RUCK 3WISS -USEUM OF 0APER 7RITING AND 0RINTING 4UESn3UN nPM &R 3-0 WWWPAPIERMUSEUM CH 4HE WATERWHEEL ALONGSIDE REMNANT OF THE GROWTH OF THE INDUSTRY IN THE lFTEENTH CENTURY STILL FUNCTIONS AND IN AMONGST EXHIBITS OF PAPER AND TYPOGRA PHY THE MUSEUM STAGES DEMONSTRATIONS OF TYPECASTING TYPESETTING BOOKBINDING AND n MOST ENGAGINGLY n PAPERMAKING WHERE YOU CAN WORK THROUGH THE WHOLE PROCESS YOURSELF FROM PULP TO lNAL PRODUCT ! LANDING STAGE ACROSS FROM THE MILL MARKS THE 3T !LBAN FERRY 7ILD -AA WHICH CAN SCOOT YOU ACROSS THE 2HINE TO THE NORTH BANK FOR THE LEISURELY STROLL EAST ALONG 3OLITUDE 0ROMENADE TO THE 4INGUELY -USEUM
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4HE FRIENDLY AND HELPFUL TOURIST OFlCE IS OPPOSITE THE STATION PLATFORM EXIT AT "AHNHOFPLATZ -ON NOONnPM 4UESn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM WWWBADENCH /N THE EAST SIDE OF THE ,IMMAT ABOUT M SOUTH OF THE WOODEN BRIDGE IS THE lNE () HOSTEL *UGENDHERBERGE +ANAL STRASSE WWWYOUTHHOSTELCH -ARCHn$EC DORMS &R "ADENS HOTELS ARE GOOD VALUE BUT THEYRE GEARED TOWARDS MONIED LONG STAYERS TAKING THE WATERS 4OP CHOICE IS THE "LUME +URPLATZ WWWBLUME BADENCH A lNE "ELLE %POQUE BUILDING IN THE SPA DISTRICT BUILT AROUND AN EYE POPPING INTERIOR ATRIUM SPACE WITH CLASSICALLY GRAND PUBLIC AREAS AND A RANGE OF ELEGANT ROOMS ITS BEEN ON THIS SITE SINCE 4HE MODERN "EST 7ESTERN $U 0ARC NEARBY AT 2ÚMERSTRASSE WWW DUPARCCH IS A FALLBACK OPTION
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HE GIANT #ANTON "ERN IS ONE OF THE COUNTRYS LARGEST TAKING IN A SWATHE OF DIVERSE COUNTRYSIDE FROM SNOWY !LPINE PEAKS TO GENTLY ROLLING FARMLAND 4HE NORTH OF THE CANTON IS FOCUSED AROUND THE CITY OF "ERN ITSELF 3WITZERLANDS LOW KEY AND ATTRACTIVE FEDERAL CAPITAL 7ITH A GLORI OUS HISTORY AT THE FULCRUM OF 3WISS HISTORY "ERN HAS OFTEN DOMINATED THE ECONOMIC AND POLITICAL FORTUNES OF THE POPULATED WEST CENTRAL HEARTLAND n OR -ITTELLAND n OF THE COUNTRY 4HIS ARC OF TERRITORY STRETCHING FROM ,AKE 'ENEVA TO :àRICH HOLDS AND HAS ALWAYS HELD 3WITZERLANDS MOST FERTILE COUNTRY DENSEST POPULATION AND GREATEST WEALTH 4HE 2EFORMATION MAY HAVE BEGUN IN :àRICH AND mOURISHED IN 'ENEVA BUT IT WAS THE "ERNESE ARMY THAT SEIZED HEARTS AND MINDS IN THE COUNTRYSIDE BETWEEN THE TWO &OR CENTURIES AFTER THE "URGUNDIAN WARS THE PATRICIAN NOBILITY OF "ERN CONTROLLED A WEALTHY CITY STATE COVERING THE ENTIRE -ITTELLAND IT WAS A &RENCH BACKED REVOLUTION IN THAT SAW "ERN STRIPPED BOTH OF ITS ,AKE 'ENEVA BREADBASKET CARVED OUT TO FORM #ANTON 6AUD AND THE ROLLING FARMLAND OF THE NORTH #ANTON !ARGAU .ONETHELESS "ERN WAS A NATURAL CHOICE FOR 3WISS FEDERAL CAPITAL UNDER THE CONSTITU TION AND WITH OVERWHELMING ECONOMIC AND POLITICAL CLOUT "ERN STILL CALLS THE SHOTS IN ITS HOME REGION %VERY 3WISS VALUES HIS OR HER HOME CANTON ABOVE ALL THE OTHERS BUT THE "ERNESE DRAW ON A PARTICULARLY DEEP WELLSPRING OF NATIONALISTIC PRIDE IN CELE BRATING THEIR OWN IDENTITY CULTURE AND LANGUAGE 4HEYRE FAMOUS FOR THEIR SLOW DELIBERATE MANNER AND YOULL PICK UP A SING SONG TONE IN THE LETHARGIC "ERNESE DIALECT OF 3WISS 'ERMAN THAT SPARKS INEVITABLE ASSOCIATIONS WITH 7ELSH OR 4EXAN ACCENTS OF %NGLISH 0ARALLELS DONT STOP AT LANGUAGE LIKE 7ALES AND 4EXAS "ERN n ONCE AN INDEPENDENT STATE n IS NOW BOUND INTO A LARGER POLITY BUT HAS A RELATIVELY STATIC SELF ASSURED POPULATION WHO TEND TO FEEL LITTLE AFlNITY WITH THE PEOPLE OVER THE BORDER ,UZERNERS AND &RIBOURGEOIS ARE STRANGERS WITH WHOM THE "ERNESE SHARE A NATIONALITY BUT NEITHER A CULTURAL NOR A RELIGIOUS IDENTITY 4HE SLOW TALKING "ERNESE TRADITIONALLY DECRY :àRICHERS FOR BEING BIG CITY HOTHEADS AND "ASLERS AND 'ENFERS FOR BEING SNOBS n AND THE COMPLIMENT IS RETURNED WITH THE "ERNESE DISMISSED AS HAIR SPLITTING DULLARDS !ROUND "ERN THE LUSH HILLS AND TIDY PICTURESQUE FARMING COMMUNITIES OF THE "ERNER -ITTELLAND HOLD PLENTY OF RUSTIC CHARM NOT LEAST IN THE %MMENTAL REGION TO THE EAST 4HE "ERNER /BERLAND OR "ERNESE !LPS IN THE SOUTH OF THE CANTON HAS ITS OWN CHAPTER BEGINNING ON P 4WO CITIES NEAR "ERN WORTH MAKING TIME FOR ARE 3OLOTHURN TO THE NORTH AND THE MUCH OVERLOOKED TOWN OF &RIBOURG TO THE SOUTHWEST
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WOODED 6IEWS BOTH OF THE /LD 4OWNS CLUSTERED ROOFS AND OF THE MAJESTIC !LPS ON THE HORIZON ARE BREATHTAKING #OMING FROM :àRICH OR 'ENEVA ITS HARD TO REMEMBER THAT "ERN n ONCE VOTED %UROPES MOST mORAL CITY n IS THE NATIONS CAPITAL HOME OF THE 3WISS PARLIAMENT AND WIELDER OF lNAL FEDERAL AUTHORITY &OR ALL ITS POLITICAL STATUS "ERN IS A TINY CITY OF UNDER PEOPLE AND RETAINS A SMALL TOWNS EASY APPROACH TO LIFE 4HE ATTRACTION OF THE PLACE IS ITS AMBIENCE TRAFlC IS KEPT OUT OF THE /LD 4OWN AND YOU COULD SPEND DAYS JUST WANDERING THE STREETS AND ALLEYS CAFÏ HOPPING AND n IF ITS WARM n JOINING THE LOCALS FOR A PLUNGE INTO THE RIVER 4HE PERFECTLY PRESERVED MEDIEVAL STREET PLAN WITH ITS ARCADES STREET FOUNTAINS AND DOUGHTY TOWERS PERSUADED 5.%3#/ TO DEEM "ERN A 7ORLD (ERITAGE 3ITE PLACING IT IN THE COMPANY OF SUCH LEGENDARY SITES AS &LORENCE 0ETRA AND THE 4AJ -AHAL )N A COMPETITION FOR THE WORLDS MOST BEAUTIFUL AND RELAXING CAPITAL CITY ITS HARD TO THINK WHAT COULD KNOCK "ERN INTO SECOND PLACE
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! CASTLE PROBABLY STOOD AT .YDEGG ON THE EASTERN TIP OF "ERNS PENINSULA FROM THE ELEVENTH CENTURY BEFORE "ERCHTOLD 6 $UKE OF :ËHRINGEN CHOSE THE STRATEGI CALLY IDEAL SPOT TO FOUND A NEW CITY IN (E HAD THE OAK FORESTS COVERING THE PENINSULA FELLED USING THE TIMBER FOR THE lRST HOUSES AND THEN n LEGEND HAS IT n WENT HUNTING NEARBY AND NAMED THE NEW CITY AFTER HIS lRST KILL A BEAR "ËR IN 'ERMAN "ERNS COAT OF ARMS SPORTING A BEAR lRST APPEARED IN AND TO THIS DAY BEARS REMAIN INDELIBLY ASSOCIATED WITH THE CITY 4HE !ARE ENCIRCLES "ERNS /LD 4OWN ON THREE SIDES "ERCHTOLDS FOURTH DEFENCE WAS A WALL WHICH INITIALLY RAN THROUGH THE :YTGLOGGE TOWER 5NDER THE :ËHRINGENS AND BY VIRTUE TOO OF BEING IN CLOSE PROXIMITY TO THE WEALTHY AND POWERFUL KINGDOM OF "URGUNDY "ERN EXPANDED RAPIDLY "Y IT HAD A NEW WALL AT THE PRESENT +ËlGTURM AND A CENTURY LATER THE CITY REACHED AS FAR AS THE #HRISTOFFELTURM AT THE PRESENT DAY TRAIN STATION )N AT THE "ATTLE OF ,AUPEN "ERN DEFEATED THE UNITED NOBILITY OF "URGUNDY AND ASSERTED ITS NEW FOUND INDEPENDENCE BY JOINING THE 3WISS #ONFEDERATION IN 3HORTLY BEFORE PM ON -AY lRE BROKE OUT IN "RUNNGASSE AND TORE THROUGH THE TIMBER BUILT CITY KILLING ONE HUNDRED AND RAZING MOST OF THE TOWN 4HE SUBSEQUENT PROGRAMME OF REBUILDING THIS TIME IN THE LOCAL SANDSTONE GAVE THE CITY MUCH OF ITS PRESENT CHARACTER INCLUDING THE STREET ARCADES THE SURVIV ING TOWN PLAN AND MONUMENTAL PUBLIC BUILDINGS SUCH AS THE 2ATHAUS AND THE -àNSTER )N "ERN ENTHUSIASTICALLY ACCEPTED THE 2EFORMATION AND THE SIXTEENTH AND SEVENTEENTH CENTURIES SAW A PROGRAMME OF UPGRADING THE CITYS STREETS AND ARCADES -EANWHILE "ERNS NOBILITY GATHERED GREATER AND GREATER POWER SUCCESSFULLY PUTTING DOWN A SERIES OF CITIZENS REVOLTS BEFORE lNALLY FALLING PREY TO &RENCH INVADERS WHO RANSACKED THE CITYS TREASURY IN 4HE #ONGRESS OF 6IENNA IN FORCED "ERN TO SURRENDER ITS EASTERN AND WESTERN TERRITORIES THUS CREATING #ANTONS !ARGAU AND 6AUD AND DONATED PARTS OF THE *URA TO "ERN AS A CONSOLATION PRIZE THE "ERNESE COMPLAINED THAT THEYD LOST THEIR CELLAR AND THEIR GRANARY AND BEEN GIVEN AN ATTIC INSTEAD .ONETHELESS THE CITY RETAINED ITS OLD PRESTIGE ENOUGH TO BE A POPULAR CHOICE FOR FEDERAL CAPITAL IN )N AFTER SIX YEARS OF lERCE CONTROVERSY THE COMMUNAL AUTHORITIES VOTED BY TO TO DEMOLISH THE MEDIEVAL #HRISTOFFELTURM TO MAKE WAY FOR CONSTRUCTION OF "ERNS NEW RAILWAY STATION THE TOWERS FOUNDATIONS SURVIVE ON DISPLAY IN THE TRAIN STATIONS LOWER LEVEL %INSTEIN PUBLISHED HIS 3PECIAL 4HEORY OF 2ELATIVITY IN "ERN IN AND (ERMANN (ESSE SPENT THE 7ORLD 7AR ) YEARS IN "ERN WHEN THE CITY WAS ALREADY KNOWN AS A HUB OF POLITICALLY PROGRES SIVE IDEAS HOSTING THE ANARCHISTS +ROPOTKIN AND "AKUNIN $URING THE TWENTIETH CENTURY "ERN CONTINUED TO EXPAND ITS NEW ARCH ING BRIDGES LINKING TO SUBURBS OVER THE !ARE SUCH AS +IRCHENFELD A PLANNED DISTRICT TO THE SOUTH CHARACTERIZED BY GRAND SnS MANSIONS 4O THE WEST "àMPLIZ HAS MUSHROOMED TO ACCOMMODATE MOST OF THE CITYS RAPID NEW GROWTH ITS LOW INCOME HOUSING AND HIGH PROPORTION OF !RAB 3OUTH !SIAN AND 3LAVIC IMMIGRANTS CONTRASTING DRAMATICALLY WITH THE SETTLED AFmUENCE AND ETHNIC HOMOGENEITY OF THE CITY CENTRE 4HE NEW CENTURY HAS BROUGHT A NUMBER OF PRESTIGIOUS ARCHITECTURAL COMMISSIONS TO THE CITY 4OP OF THE LIST IS 2ENZO 0IANOS :ENTRUM 0AUL +LEE GALLERY SEE P $ANIEL ,IBESKIND HAS DESIGNED THE STUNNING 7ESTSIDE SHOP PING AND ENTERTAINMENT COMPLEX WWWWESTSIDECH LOCATED WEST OF THE CITY TO ACT AS A BRIDGE BETWEEN 'ERMAN AND &RENCH SPEAKING COMMUNITIES AND THE OLD 7ANKDORF STADIUM IN THE NORTHEAST SUBURBS HAS BEEN REJUVENATED AS THE GLITTERING SEAT 3TADE DE 3UISSE WWWSTADEDESUISSECH A VENUE FOR THE %UROPEAN FOOTBALL CHAMPIONSHIPS
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"ERNS HUGE TRAIN STATION IS CENTRALLY SITUATED AT THE WESTERN EDGE OF THE /LD 4OWN WITHIN A FEW MINUTES WALK OF PRACTICALLY ALL THE HOTELS AND SIGHTS 4RAINS ARRIVE AT THE LOWER LEVEL POSTBUSES ON THE UPPERMOST LEVEL 4HE /LD 4OWN STRETCHES TO THE EAST OCCUPYING THE CENTRAL HIGH GROUND OF A THIN lNGER LIKE PENINSULA THREE LONG PARALLEL COBBLED STREETS WHICH ALL CHANGE THEIR NAMES ALONG THEIR LENGTH DElNE THE /LD 4OWN AREA !ARBERGERGASSE :EUGHAUSGASSE
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7ANDERING THROUGH "ERNS 5.%3#/ PROTECTED /LD 4OWN CAN BE A MAGICAL EXPERIENCE FEW CITIES IN %UROPE ARE SO VISIBLY WEDDED TO THEIR DISTANT PAST WITH ARCHITECTURE AND A STREET PLAN ESSENTIALLY UNCHANGED SINCE MEDIEVAL TIMES 4HE MOST HECTIC SHOPPING GOES ON IN THE WESTERN HALF OF THE /LD 4OWN ON -ARKTGASSE AND 3PITALGASSE IN PARTICULAR THE OLDER EASTERN HALF IS SLOWER PACED (OWEVER NOT FOR NOTHING DOES THE TOURIST OFlCE TOUT THE FAMOUS ARCADES LINING BOTH SIDES OF EVERY STREET IN THE /LD 4OWN AS BEING hTHE LONGEST COVERED SHOPPING PROMENADE IN THE WORLDv )N A STRANGE TURNAROUND OF EXPECTATIONS ITS WHEN YOU WALK UNDER THE CROWDED ARCADES THAT YOU GET A FULL ON BLAST OF MODERN CONSUMERISM WITH MUSIC SHOP WINDOWS AND ADVERTISING VYING FOR YOUR ATTENTION 3TEP A FEW METRES TO THE SIDE TO WALK IN THE OPEN AIR AND n WITH A LITTLE IMAGINATION n ITS EASY TO PICTURE YOURSELF IN THE "ERN OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY
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5IF;ZUHMPHHF !N IMPOSING PRESENCE AT THE CENTRE OF THE /LD 4OWN THE :YTGLOGGE TSEET KLOK UH :EITGLOCKENTURM OR #LOCK 4OWER IS AS MUCH THE SYMBOL OF "ERN AS THE BEAR 4HE FOCAL POINT OF PUBLIC TRANSPORT AND WALKING ROUTES WITHIN THE /LD 4OWN n AND BOTH THE BENCHMARK OF OFlCIAL "ERN TIME AND THE POINT FROM WHICH ALL DISTANCES IN THE CANTON ARE MEASURED n ITS SQUAT SHAPE OVERSIZED SPIRED ROOF AND GIANT GILDED CLOCK FACE WILL IMPRINT THEMSELVES ON YOUR MEMORY OF THE CITY 4HE TOWER WAS ORIGINALLY CONSTRUCTED PARTLY IN WOOD AS THE WESTERNMOST CITY GATE IN n BUT BY THE CITY WALLS HAD MOVED WEST TO THE +ËlGTURM THE TOWER WAS THEN CONVERTED INTO A PRISON FOR THOSE PROSTITUTES WHO MADE A LIVING SERVICING THE CLERGY !FTER THE DEVASTATING lRE OF THE TOWER WAS REBUILT IN STONE WITH A NEW SQUAT DESIGN A TURRETED STAIRCASE TO ONE SIDE STILL USED TODAY AND A CLOCK MECHANISM 4HE CLOCK SOON BROKE AND STAYED BROKEN FOR YEARS UNTIL ONE #ASPAR "RUNNER DESIGNED AN ELEGANT NEW MECHANISM WHICH HAS FUNCTIONED SINCE HE INSTALLED IT IN AND WHICH IS STILL COMPLETE WITH NEARLY ALL ITS ORIGINAL PARTS "ELOW THE MAIN EAST FACE OF THE CLOCK IS AN INTRICATE ASTRONOMICAL AND ASTROLOGICAL DEVICE WHICH IN ONE SMALL DIAMETER DISPLAYS A HOUR CLOCK THE TWELVE HOURS OF DAYLIGHT THE POSITION OF THE SUN IN THE ZODIAC THE DAY OF THE WEEK THE DATE AND THE MONTH THE PHASES OF THE MOON AND THE ELEVATION OF THE SUN ABOVE THE HORIZON EVERYTHING KEPT ACCU RATE BY LINKAGE TO THE MAIN CLOCK MECHANISM 4HE EXTERNAL APPEARANCE OF THE :YTGLOGGE DATES FROM "AROQUE EMBELLISHMENTS OF n 4HE MAIN DRAW OF THE THING IS GENERALLY TOUTED TO BE A RATHER UNDERWHELM ING LITTLE DISPLAY OF MECHANICAL lGURES n A CROWING COCK A PARADE OF BEARS #HRONOS WITH HIS HOURGLASS AND A DANCING JESTER n WHICH IS SET INTO MOTION FOUR MINUTES BEFORE EVERY HOUR ON THE CLOCKS EAST FACE 7HATS FAR MORE
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INTERESTING IS TO SEE CLOSE UP AND HAVE EXPLAINED THE ACTUAL INNER WORKINGS OF THE MECHANISM AS THE PENDULUM SWINGS AND LINKED COGS TURN GRACEFULLY CHECK WITH THE TOURIST OFlCE FOR DETAILS OF THEIR FASCINATING GUIDED TOUR OF THE TOWER /N +ORNHAUSPLATZ BELOW THE WEST FACE OF THE :YTGLOGGE STANDS THE +INDLIFRESSERBRUNNEN OR /GRE &OUNTAIN TOPPED BY A STATUE OF A MAN DEVOURING A STRUG GLING BABY 4HE "ERNESE AUTHORI TIES WOULD HAVE YOU BELIEVE THIS IS A LIGHT HEARTED CARNIVAL SCENE BUT THE NIGHTMARISH STATUE WAS ONCE PAINTED YELLOW THE COLOUR USED TO STIGMATIZE *EWS AND MAY POSSIBLY BE AN UNUSUALLY GRAPHIC REPRE SENTATION OF THE SUSPICION HELD THROUGHOUT MEDIEVAL %UROPE THAT *EWISH RELIGIOUS RITUAL INVOLVED THE MURDER OF CHILDREN 7HICHEVER "ERNS HAPPY SHOPPERS OF TODAY SEEM UNFAZED BY IMAGES OF CANNI BALISTIC INFANTICIDE IN THEIR MIDST
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7HILE THE MAIN STREET CONTINUES AHEAD CHANGING ITS NAME TO 'ERECHTIG KEITSGASSE THE SMALL +REUZGASSE HEADS LEFT NORTH PAST A QUAINT LITTLE SHOP WHICH HAS BEEN A PHARMACY SINCE TO 2ATHAUSPLATZ DOMINATED BY THE DOUBLE STAIRCASED 2ATHAUS !LTHOUGH THE BUILDING DATES FROM n ITS BEEN MUCH ALTERED OVER THE CENTURIES /PPOSITE IS A FOUNTAIN SPORTING A "ERNESE STANDARD BEARER IN FULL ARMOUR .EXT TO THE 2ATHAUS IS THE 3T 0ETER 3T 0AUL +IRCHE BUILT IN AS THE lRST #ATHOLIC PARISH CHURCH TO GO UP IN THE CITY SINCE THE 2EFORMATION )TS A COOL MUSTY PLACE IN A MOCK 'OTHIC STYLE WHICH SINCE HAS BELONGED TO THE HETERODOX #HRIST #ATHOLIC CHURCH SEE BOX 4HIS IS ONE OF THE MOST PEACEFUL AND ATMOSPHERIC CORNERS IN THE /LD 4OWN 2ATHAUSGASSE TO THE WEST RETAINS ITS FACADES THOUGH MANY OF THE OLD UPPER mOORS HAVE BEEN CONVERTED INTO LUXURY APARTMENTS WHILE TO THE EAST TINY 0OSTGASSE WITH A HANDFUL OF CAFÏS AND ANTIQUARIAN BOOKSELLERS TRICKLES ITS WAY DOWN THE SLOPE TOWARDS THE OLDEST PART OF THE CITY AROUND .YDEGG !N ALTERNATIVE ROUTE HEADS THE OTHER WAY ON +REUZGASSE RIGHT SOUTH ONTO TRANQUIL *UNKERNGASSE 4HE APSE OF THE -àNSTER SEE P IS OPPOSITE BUT IF YOU HEAD EAST LEFT DOWN THE STREET YOULL PASS A SUCCESSION OF lNE TOWN HOUSES ON THE ROUTE TO .YDEGG &IRST SET BACK FROM THE STREET ON THE RIGHT AT NO IS THE "EATRICE VON 7ATTENWYL (AUS ITS FRONTAGE AND ARCADES DATING FROM THE S THE SOUTH WING AND UPPER mOORS FROM A MAJOR EXPANSION IN !T NO IS THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY :EERLEDERHAUS WITH NEO 'OTHIC HERALDIC EXTERIOR MURALS DONE IN 4HE MAIN DRAW AT NO IS THE %RLACHERHOF THE GRANDEST PATRICIAN MANSION IN THE CITY DESIGNED IN AROUND ITS OWN COURTYARD ITS BEEN THE SEAT OF THE MUNICIPAL GOVERNMENT SINCE AND FOR A DECADE AFTER HOUSED THE FEDERAL GOVERNMENT ! SHORT STROLL PAST THE ,OUIS 86) ,ERBER HAUS AT NO AND -ORLOTHAUS AT NO LEADS ON DOWN TO .YDEGG /ZEFHH
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POINT OF "ERNS PENINSULA AND THE LOCATION OF .YDEGG #ASTLE BUILT PROBABLY BEFORE THE FOUNDING OF "ERN AND THE SPUR TO THE CITYS CONSTRUCTION )T WAS DESTROYED IN THE MID THIRTEENTH CENTURY AND ITS LOCATION IS NOW MARKED BY THE .YDEGGKIRCHE ALTHOUGH PARTS OF ITS MASSIVE STONE FOUNDATIONS SURVIVE HERE AND THERE 4HE CHURCH IS A MISHMASH OF ELEMENTS ADDED TO AN ORIGINAL BUILDING AND ITS WORTH STOPPING TO SAVOUR THE TRANQUIL ATMOSPHERE OF THE COURTYARD OUTSIDE WITH A WELL WHICH ORIGINALLY STOOD WITHIN THE PRECINCTS OF THE TWELFTH CENTURY CASTLE AND A PICTURESQUE VIEW OF THE MEDIEVAL HOUSES CLUS TERING ON THE SLOPES ALL AROUND 4HE COVERED "URGTREPPE STEPS LEAD DOWN FROM THE COURTYARD TO 'ERBERNGASSE AT THE BOTTOM IF YOU CROSS THE STREET AND WALK M OR SO LEFT YOULL lND MORE STEPS LEADING DOWN TO THE RIVERSIDE THROUGH A THIRTEENTH CENTURY ARCH WHICH ORIGINALLY BELONGED TO THE ,ËNDTETOR LANDING STAGE FOR THE lRST FERRY ACROSS THE RIVER 4HE WALL FRESCO BENEATH THE ARCH DEPICTS THE NEIGHBOURHOOD IN THE EARLY NINETEENTH CENTURY .BUUFBOE.BS[JMJ
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%MERGING BACK ONTO 'ERBERNGASSE TO THE RIGHT NORTHEAST IS ,ËUFERPLATZ ITS FOUNTAIN STATUE OF THE CITY HERALD STANDING AT THE HEAD OF THE LOW 5NTERTOR BRàCKE ONE OF THE OLDEST BRIDGES IN 3WITZERLAND 4O THE LEFT SOUTHWEST 'ERBERNGASSE FOLLOWS THE BEND OF THE RIVER DOWN INTO ONE OF THE MOST APPEAL ING DISTRICTS OF THE /LD 4OWN -ATTE WWWMATTECH &OR MANY CENTURIES THIS WAS A SELF CONTAINED DISTRICT OF CRAFTSPEOPLE AND DOCKWORKERS WHICH LONG RETAINED ITS OWN DIALECT RELATED TO THE *ENISCH LANGUAGE OF THE 3WISS GYPSIES SEE P AND DUBBED -ATTENENGLISCH BY THE OTHER "ERNESE TO WHOM IT WAS AN INCOMPREHENSIBLE LANGUAGE AS OBSCURE AS %NGLISCH SPOKEN IN A MEADOW -ATTE 'ENTRIlCATION OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD IN THE S BROUGHT SWEEPING SOCIAL CHANGES 4HE RIVER IS STILL CHANNELLED INTO AN OPEN CANAL ALONG THE MAIN STREET AND THERE ARE PLENTY OF CROOKED HALF TIMBERED HOUSES ALL AROUND BUT A LOOK AT WALL PLAQUES WILL TURN UP MORE SOFTWARE COMPANIES AND DESIGN PARTNER SHIPS THAN YOU COULD SHAKE A STICK AT 9OULL lND A GREAT DEAL OF GRAFlTI DOWN HERE TOO A LEGACY OF THE PRESENCE OF THE 7ASSERWERK ONE OF "ERNS LEADING DANCE CLUBS $URING THE DISASTROUS mOODS OF AND -ATTE SPENT SEVERAL WEEKS UNDERWATER YOU MAY STILL SEE EVIDENCE OF HIGH WATER MARKS &ROM -ATTE THE LEAST ENERGETIC WAY TO GET BACK TO THE /LD 4OWN IS TO CONTINUE SOUTHWEST ALONG THE RIVERSIDE 3CHIFmAUBE UNTIL "ADGASSE WHERE THERE IS A LIFT -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM &R TO WHISK YOU UP TO THE -àNSTER PLATTFORM OVERHEAD -ANY mIGHTS OF STEPS WEND THEIR WAY UP THE HILLSIDE ALL AROUND TOO /THERWISE YOU COULD CONTINUE A RIVERSIDE STROLL UNDER THE +IRCHENFELDBRàCKE INTO -ARZILI A PEACEFUL RESIDENTIAL DISTRICT WITH A HANDFUL OF OLD INDUSTRIAL BUILD INGS ON THE RIVERBANK NOW CONVERTED INTO MUSIC VENUES AND ARTS CENTRES 4HE !ARE IS PARTICULARLY FAST AT "ERN SUMMER SEES HORDES CROWDING THE RIVERBANK LAWNS AND MANY PEOPLE LEAVE THEIR POSSESSIONS AT THE POOL COMPLEXES AT -ARZILI OR ,ORRAINE AND WALK OR TAKE PUBLIC TRANSPORT SOUTH TO A CONVENIENT JUMPING IN POINT TO LET THE STRONG CURRENT mOAT THEM BACK NORTH AGAIN #HEAPSKATES WRAP THEIR CLOTHES UP IN A PLASTIC BAG AND TIE IT TO THEIR WRIST AS THEY mOAT ALONG "DSPTTUIF/ZEFHHCSàDLF
4HERE ARE FEW ATTRACTIONS ON THE EASTERN BANK OF THE !ARE !T THE BRIDGEHEAD ACROSS THE RIVER IS THE "ËRENGRABEN "EAR 0ITS FREELY ACCESSIBLE TWO LARGE SUNKEN DENS IN THE OPEN AIR WHICH HAVE HOUSED A COLLECTION OF SHAGGY BROWN BEARS n THE SYMBOL OF "ERN n SINCE THE EARLY SIXTEENTH CENTURY 0LANS ARE UNDER WAY TO REVAMP THIS WHOLE AREA AS A "EAR 0ARK WITH LARGE ENCLOSURES SO THE BEARS CAN ROAM MORE WIDELY AND EVEN SWIM IN THE RIVER
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"ERNS LATE 'OTHIC -àNSTER %ASTERn/CT 4UESn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMn PM .OVn%ASTER 4UESn&RI AMnNOON nPM 3AT UNTIL PM 3UN AMnPM WWWBERNERMUENSTERCH IS UNMISTAKEABLE ITS FEATHERY SPIRE n THE HIGHEST IN 3WITZERLAND n TOWERING OVER THE /LD 4OWN AND ITS SONOROUS BELLS DOMINATING THE QUIET CITY )TS A REVERENTIAL PLACE BOTH FOR ITS LOFTY GLOOMY INTERIOR AND THE TERRIlC VIEWS FROM ITS TOWER 4HE lRST CHAPEL ON THE SITE n RECORDED IN n PROBABLY DATED FROM THE FOUNDING OF THE CITY /N -ARCH WHEN JUST lVE THOUSAND PEOPLE LIVED IN "ERN -ATTHËUS %NSINGER A MASTER BUILDER FROM 3TRASBOURG WHO ALREADY HAD THREE CATHEDRALS UNDER HIS BELT STARTED CONSTRUCTION ON THE NEW MINSTER USING THE GREENISH LOCAL SANDSTONE 7ORK CONTINUED ACCORDING TO HIS ORIGINAL PLANS UNTIL THE MID SIXTEENTH CENTURY AND AFTER A GAP OF THREE CENTURIES OR SO WAS lNALLY COMPLETED IN WITH THE ADDITION OF THE SPIRE "ERN WAS A RAPID CONVERT TO THE 2EFORMATION AND MOST OF THE CHURCHS TREASURES WERE DESTROYED IN OR SOON AFTER ALTHOUGH SOME NOTABLE PIECES SUCH AS THE PORTAL SCULPTURE CHOIR STALLS AND STAINED GLASS WINDOWS SURVIVED /UTSIDE THE CATHEDRAL COBBLED -àNSTERPLATZ FEATURES THE IMPOSING "AROQUE FACADES OF AMONG OTHER BUILDINGS THE CHAPTERHOUSE AND A FOUNTAIN SHOW ING -OSES lRED WITH THE ZEAL OF THE 2EFORMATION POINTING TO THE 3ECOND #OMMANDMENT THE ONE FORBIDDING IDOLATRY )TS WORTH STOPPING AT THE CENTRAL PORTAL OF THE CATHEDRAL BEFORE HEADING INSIDE n THIS SPECTACULAR DEPICTION OF THE ,AST *UDGEMENT IS ONE OF THE ONLY REMAINING UNIlED EXAMPLES OF SUCH LATE 'OTHIC SCULPTURE IN %UROPE 4HE SMALLER lGURES ARE THE lFTEENTH CENTURY ORIGINALS THE LARGER FREESTANDING PIECES WERE REPLACED BY COPIES IN THE ORIGINALS NOW SITTING IN THE "ERNISCHES (ISTORISCHES -USEUM 4HE LEFT HALF OF THE PORTAL DEPICTS THE SAVED THE RIGHT HALF THE DAMNED YOU CAN IMAGINE THAT THE GRAPHIC DIDACTIC COUNTERPOINT BETWEEN THE BEATIlC SMILES OF ONE SIDE AND THE NAKED SCREAMING TORMENT OF THE OTHER WOULD HAVE APPEALED EVEN TO THE ICONOCLASTIC 2EFORMERS WHO CHOSE TO SPARE IT FROM DESTRUCTION )N THE CENTRE IS *USTICE mANKED BY ANGELS THE 7ISE AND &OOLISH 6IRGINS AND ABOVE THE !RCHANGEL -ICHAEL WIELDING A SWORD AND SCALES %NTRY IS THROUGH THE RIGHT HAND GATE AND THE HUSHED INTERIOR IS IMMEDIATELY IMPRESSIVE 4HE IMMENSE ROOF SPAN IS LACED AROUND WITH VAULTING n THE AISLES ARE mANKED BY ROWS OF PORCHES AND SMALL CHAPELS AND THE NAVE WITH SQUARE PILLARS PLACED DIAGONALLY AND A PULPIT DATING FROM CHANNELS ATTEN TION TOWARDS THE STAINED GLASS OF THE CHOIR +EYSTONE BUSTS OF SAINTS -ARY #HRIST AND OTHERS WERE LEFT UNTOUCHED BY THE 2EFORMERS POSSIBLY BECAUSE THEY WERE TOO HIGH TO REACH 4HE S CHOIR STALLS ARE MARVELLOUS CARVED WITH FACES OF
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4HE TOURIST COMPLEX ADJACENT HOUSED IN A CENTURY OLD CONVERTED TRAM DEPOT HAS A RESTAURANT BAR AND TOURIST INFORMATION DESK AS WELL AS THE MUCH TOUTED "ERN 3HOW EVERY MIN *UNEn3EPT DAILY AMnPM -ARCHn-AY /CT DAILY AMnPM .OVn&EB &RIn3UN AMnPM FREE WHERE n HAVING WAITED FOR THE %NGLISH VERSION TO COME ROUND n YOU SIT ON BENCHES TO WATCH A POTTED HISTORY OF "ERN EVOKED BY A LARGE MODEL OF THE CITY AND CLEVER USE OF LIGHTS AND PICTURES )TS A VALIANT ATTEMPT TO BRING HISTORY TO LIFE BUT IS JUST TOO CHEESY FOR ITS OWN GOOD (EADING LEFT UP THE STEEP HILL NEXT TO THE "ËRENGRABEN WILL BRING YOU TO THE 2OSENGARTEN 2OSE 'ARDEN WHICH HAS A LOVELY COLLECTION OF mORA VARIETIES OF ROSE OF IRIS AND MORE AND SPECTACULAR MORNING VIEWS OVER THE /LD 4OWN
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THE PROPHETS AND MUCH INTRICATE DETAIL OF ORDINARY LIFE 4HE GORGEOUS STAINED GLASS WINDOWS OF THE CHOIR DATE FROM n ALTHOUGH A HAILSTORM IN DAMAGED THE RIGHT HAND WINDOWS TWO REPLACEMENTS WERE INSTALLED IN 9OU CAN ALSO CLIMB THE TOWER THE TALLEST IN 3WITZERLAND 4HE WAY UP IS JUST INSIDE THE CHURCH DOOR CLOSES MIN EARLY &R BUT BE WARNED THIS IS A M CLIMB UP A NARROW SPIRAL OF STONE STAIRS 9OU MIGHT WANT TO ASK IN THE CHURCH WHEN THE BELLS WILL BE RUNG AND MAKE YOUR ASCENT TO COINCIDE SINCE THE EXPERIENCE OF STANDING BESIDE A GIGANTIC TOLLING TEN AND A HALF TON BELL n THE LARGEST IN THE COUNTRY CAST IN n IS ONE YOU AND YOUR RIBCAGE WILL REMEMBER 4HE DEGREE VISTAS OVER THE WHOLE CITY MOST OF THE SURROUNDING COUNTRYSIDE AND OUT TOWARDS THE !LPS ARE DREAMY /N THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE CHURCH IS THE -àNSTERPLATTFORM A BUTTRESSED TERRACE ABOVE THE !ARE WHICH TOOK ABOUT A HUNDRED YEARS FROM TO BUILD !BANDONED ICONS WERE DUMPED HERE DURING THE 2EFORMATION BUT LATER IT WAS PLANTED WITH LIME AND CHESTNUT TREES AND GIVEN ELEGANT "AROQUE CORNER PAVIL IONS IN ORDER TO SERVE AS AN OPEN PROMENADE WHICH IS HOW IT HAS REMAINED 4HE VIEWS OF THE !ARE AND OF SILHOUETTED TRAMS CREEPING ALONG THE SOARING +IRCHENFELDBRàCKE ARE SPECTACULAR 4HE NET BELOW THE PARAPET WAS ADDED A FEW YEARS AGO AS A DISINCENTIVE TO DESPERATE "ERNESE WHO CHOSE THIS RATHER DRAMATIC AND BEAUTIFUL SPOT TO END IT ALL
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&ROM THE MAIN +ORNHAUSPLATZ TRAMS WEAVE THEIR WAY WEST ALONG -ARKT GASSE HEART OF THE CITY CENTRE SHOPPING DISTRICT NEATLY AVOIDING THE FOUNTAIN STATUES OF A MUSKETEER IN FULL ARMOUR AND !NNA 3EILER FOUNDER OF "ERNS lRST HOSPITAL WHOS BEEN SET UP TO SERVE AS AN ALLEGORY OF MODERATION *UST BEYOND THE 3EILERBRUNNEN IS THE +ËlGTURM AN EARLY CITY GATE n WHICH WAS USED AS A PRISON FROM UNTIL 4HE BROAD SUNNY MARKETPLACE OF "ËRENPLATZ OPENS BEYOND AND A LITTLE FURTHER WEST ALONG HECTIC 3PITALGASSE WITH ITS BAGPIPER FOUNTAIN STANDS THE LATE S (EILIGGEISTKIRCHE (OLY 3PIRIT #HURCH 4UESn&RI AMnPM WWWHEILIGGEISTKIRCHECH ACCLAIMED AS 3WITZERLANDS lNEST EXAMPLE OF 0ROTESTANT CHURCH BUILDING BOASTING A lNE "AROQUE PILLARED AND GALLERIED INTERIOR 4HE TRAIN STATION n METRES AWAY n MARKS THE LIMIT OF THE MEDIEVAL CITY SEVERAL SECTIONS OF EXCAVATED CITY WALL ARE EXPOSED ON THE LOWER SHOPPING CONCOURSE 5IF#VOEFTIBVT
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IN FRONT OF THE "UNDESHAUS OR &EDERAL !SSEMBLY BUILDING BUILT IN 2ENAISSANCE STYLE IN AND INSCRIBED #URIA #ONFOEDERATIONIS (ELVETICAE !SSEMBLY "UILD ING OF THE 3WISS #ONFEDERATION 7HEN THE PARLIAMENTARIANS ARE NOT IN SESSION YOU CAN JOIN A FREE MINUTE GUIDED TOUR ON THE HOUR -ONn&RI nAM nPM ARRIVE MIN EARLY AT THE SECURITY ENTRANCE ON THE EAST SIDE WHICH TAKES YOU THROUGH THE VARIOUS CHAMBERS DECORATED WITH COATS OF ARMS STATUES AND PAINTINGS COMMEMORATING EVENTS IN 3WISS HISTORY 7HEN THE ASSEMBLY IS SITTING THE mAG OVERHEAD WILL BE mYING YOU CAN WATCH PROCEEDINGS FROM THE PUBLIC GALLERY 4HE BUILDING SITS ON A CLIFF EDGE ABOVE THE !ARE AND THE "UNDESTERRASSE BEHIND RESTS ON A MASSIVE RETAINING WALL /N ONE SIDE A QUIRKY LITTLE FUNICULAR RUNS DOWN TO THE RIVERSIDE DISTRICT OF -ARZILI DAILY AMnPM &R 5IF,VOTUNVTFVN
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"ERNS +UNSTMUSEUM IS lVE MINUTES WALK NORTHEAST OF THE TRAIN STATION IN AN IMPRESSIVE BUILDING AT (ODLERSTRASSE n 4UES AMnPM 7EDn3UN AMnPM &R TEMPORARY SHOWS &Rn 3-0 WWWKUNSTMUSEUMBERN CH !SIDE FROM OFTEN EXCELLENT CHANGING EXHIBITS THE PERMANENT COLLECTION COMPRISES LARGE NUMBERS OF WORKS BY +ANDINSKY -ODIGLIANI 'IACOMETTI 2OTHKO -IRØ 0OLLOCK AND MORE INCLUDING SOME BY 0AUL +LEE ALTHOUGH MOST NOW RESIDE AT THE :ENTRUM 0AUL +LEE #ÏZANNES 3ELF PORTRAIT WITH "LACK &ELT (AT STANDS OUT AS DOES A DEPRESSING DARK 0ICASSO DRINKER FROM AND THE ACCOMPLISHED LATE "LUE "LOUSE BY -ATISSE 4HE lNEST WORK IN A SMALL GROUP OF /LD -ASTERS IS A LUMINOUS GOLD -AESTÉ BY $UCCIO n RATHER OUT OF PLACE AMIDST THE REST %LSEWHERE YOULL lND A RANGE OF WORKS BY CONTEM PORARY ARTISTS A WIDE SELECTION FROM 3WISS ARTISTS SUCH AS !NKER AND (ODLER AS WELL AS THE CURIOUS NAÕVE ART OF !DOLF 7ÚLmI n A PAEDOPHILE FARMWORKER WHO SPENT MOST OF HIS LIFE CONlNED TO A "ERNESE ASYLUM CREATING THOUSANDS OF PAGES OF WRITING MUSICAL SCORES AND DRAWINGS HIS WORK IS ALSO DISPLAYED AT THE #OLLECTION DE L!RT "RUT IN ,AUSANNE SEE P .EARBY ON 7AISENHAUSPLATZ AN OLD SCHOOL BUILDING IS EARMARKED FOR CONVER SION INTO THE -USEUM FàR +UNST DER 'EGENWART #ONTEMPORARY !RT WWWGEGENWARTCOM TO FREE UP SPACE IN THE MAIN +UNSTMUSEUM GALLERY
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!LONGSIDE THE ! AUTOBAHN IN THE EASTERN SUBURBS LINKED TO THE CITY CENTRE BY BUS RISES THE GLITTERING :ENTRUM 0AUL +LEE 4UESn3UN AMnPM 4HURS UNTIL PM &R TEMPORARY EXHIBITS EXTRA WWWZPKORG BUILT TO SHOWCASE THE ARTISTS CREATIVE OUTPUT AND REASON ENOUGH BY ITSELF TO VISIT "ERN 4HIS MAGNIlCENT BUILDING OPENED IN WAS DESIGNED BY THE ARCHITECT 2ENZO 0IANO WITH A STEEL ROOF THAT UNDULATES IN THREE mUID GRACEFUL WAVES OR hHILLSv 4HE NORTHERN hHILLv IS DEDICATED TO +LEE THE TEACHER AND MUSICIAN BELOW THIS PART OF THE ROOF IS A CHILDRENS MUSEUM #REAVIVA AND A SUBTERRANEAN CONCERT HALL STAGING WORKS INSPIRED BY +LEES ART 4HE SOUTHERN hHILLv FOCUSES ON +LEE THE RESEARCHER AND MATHEMATICIAN HOUSING A RESEARCH CENTRE AND ARCHIVE RELAT ING TO THE ARTIST (OWEVER THE MAIN DRAW IS THE SUPERB GALLERY OCCUPYING THE CENTRAL SECTION OF THE BUILDING 4HIS HOLDS OVER FOUR THOUSAND WORKS BY +LEE THE LARGEST SUCH COLLECTION IN THE WORLD COMPRISING ALMOST HALF OF HIS TOTAL OUTPUT 4HE PERMANENT EXHIBITION ON THE GROUND mOOR DISPLAYS TWO HUNDRED WORKS AT A TIME CHANGED TWICE A YEAR WHILE THE BASEMENT LEVEL STAGES FOUR ANNUAL SHOWS FOCUSING ON +LEES CONTEMPORARIES OR HIGHLIGHTING CULTURALHISTORICAL THEMES 4HIS MEANS THAT YOU CANT BE CERTAIN WHICH WORKS WILL BE ON DISPLAY WHEN YOU
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CENTURY OR SO AGO THE FARMERS OF 2àEGSAU WERE FORCED TO MOVE DOWN FROM THEIR ORIGINAL HILLSIDE VILLAGE TINY 2àEGSBACH THROUGH AN INTERMEDIATE SETTLEMENT 2àEGSAU ITSELF TO A VILLAGE DOWN ON THE %MME 2àEGSAUSCHACHEN ALONGSIDE THE SETTLED FOLK OF (ASLE SPURRED ON BY DISPLACEMENT THEYVE SINCE DEVELOPED A STRONG COMMUNITY AND PROSPEROUS COMMERCIAL BASE 3TATIC CONSERVATIVE (ASLE HAS BEEN LEFT BEHIND AND IS NOW STRUGGLING WITH OLD FASHIONED UNRENOVATED BUILDINGS AND A STAGNATING ECONOMY 4O THIS DAY THE TWO MERELY TOLERATE EACH OTHER 2àEGSAUSCHACHEN HAS CAREFULLY KEPT GARDENS MODERN HOUSES AND AN AIR OF SUBURBAN PRIDE AND TENDS TO REGARD ITS NEIGHBOUR AS BACKWARD WHILE IN (ASLE RESENTMENT AND BITTERNESS RUN HIGH 4HIS STRETCH OF THE RIVER HAS BECOME KNOWN LOCALLY AS THE *ORDAN SYMBOLIZING THE DEPTH OF FEELING ON BOTH BANKS 4HE TWO WERE FORMERLY LINKED ACROSS THE RIVER BY THE LARGEST ARCHED WOODEN BRIDGE IN %UROPE (OLZBRàCKE A MIGHTILY IMPRESSIVE M LONG CONSTRUCTION BUILT IN 5NFORTUNATELY IT WAS DAMAGED BY CARS IN AND n ANOTHER NAIL IN THE COFlN OF NEIGHBOURLY RELATIONS n WAS SHIFTED M DOWNSTREAM TO ITS CURRENT POSITION A lVE MINUTE WALK WEST IN A HARD TO SPOT WOODSY LOCA TION BEHIND THE TRAIN TRACKS (ASLE AND 2àEGSAU NOW HAVE AN UNDISTINGUISHED MODERN BRIDGE THAT SEEMS TO DIVIDE THEM AS MUCH AS JOIN THEM !LONG THE VALLEY mOOR KM IS A TURNING FOR ,Ä4:%,&,Ä( A CAPTIVATINGLY CHARMING VILLAGE AT THE HEART OF THE %MMENTAL THAT WAS HOME TO THE LOCAL NOVELIST 'OTTHELF FROM TO /N THE OUTSKIRTS OF THE VILLAGE YOULL PASS THE +ULTURMàHLE AN OLD MILL FROM THAT HAS BEEN TURNED INTO A CULTURAL CENTRE WWWLUETZELmUEHCHKULTURMUEHLE STAGING EVERYTHING FROM THE %MMENTALER #OCK #ROWING #ONTEST TO MONTHLY CLASSICAL MUSIC CONCERTS WHICH ATTRACT THE "ERN COGNOSCENTI OUT INTO THE STICKS 4HE SMALL GARDEN NEARBY LAID OUT IN &RENCH "AROQUE STYLE ISNT OUT OF PLACE YOU CAN lND SIMILAR EXAMPLES OUTSIDE FARMHOUSES THROUGHOUT THE %MMENTAL n A LEGACY OF &RENCH INmUENCE OVER "ERN FOLLOWING THE REVOLUTION n THOUGH TODAY THE FORMAL SQUARES AND CIRCLE PATTERNS ARE JUST AS LIKELY TO BE PLANTED WITH CARROTS AND LETTUCES &ROM ,àTZELmàH BACK ROADS CLIMB TO !FFOLTERN WHILE THE MAIN VALLEY ROAD RUNS ON SOUTH BESIDE THE %MME
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4HE BEST WAY TO GET AROUND IN THE %MMENTAL IS BY BIKE OR ON FOOT BOTH OF WHICH ALLOW YOU TO SET YOUR OWN ITINERARY AND PACE STATIONS AT "ERN ,ANGNAU AND "URGDORF HAVE BIKES FOR RENT ! SCENIC TRAIN LINE BETWEEN "ERN AND ,UZERN PASSES THROUGH +ONOLlNGEN AND ,ANGNAU WHILE A BRANCH LINE RUNS NORTH FROM ,ANGNAU THROUGH (ASLE TO "URGDORF SHADOWING THE %MME THROUGH VERDANT COUNTRYSIDE 0OSTBUSES FROM -ARBACH RUN THROUGH 3CHANGNAU TO +EMMERIBODEN 4OURIST OFlCES IN "ERN AND ,ANGNAU HEAVILY TOUT HIKING WITH MAPS AND ROUTE SUGGESTIONS GALORE 7ALKING THROUGH HILLSIDE PASTURELAND FROM "URGDORF TO !FFOLTERN FOR INSTANCE TAKES ABOUT THREE HOURS FROM "URGDORF ALONG THE RIVER BANK TO (ASLE OR FROM 7ALKRINGEN ABOVE +ONOLlNGEN TO ,àTZELmàH A LITTLE LESS &OR A RAMBLE DOWN THE %MME FROM ,ANGNAU TO "URGDORF OR A STIFFER HIKE FROM ,ANGNAU UP TO THE .APF RECKON ON A LEISURELY SIX HOURS OR MORE 0RO %MMENTAL ALSO HAS DETAILS OF COMPANIES THAT CAN INEXPENSIVELY TRANSPORT YOUR BAGS AROUND THE REGION ENABLING YOU TO SPEND THE DAY WALKING UNENCUMBERED
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,ESS THAN KM SOUTHWEST AND BACK IN #ANTON "ERN AGAIN IS 3CHANGNAU VILLAGE AT THE UPPER END OF THE %MME VALLEY ! MINOR ROAD SOUTHEAST FROM HERE WINDS DRAMATICALLY BETWEEN THE CLIFFS WHICH RISE TO M ON BOTH SIDES THROUGH TINY "UMBACH WITH LIFTS UP TO THE WEDGE SHAPED (OHGANT TOWERING OVERHEAD AT M AND ON TO +%--%2)"/$%. M 4HIS END OF THE ROAD HAMLET SLICED THROUGH BY THE RUSHING TUMBLING %MME n A MOUNTAIN TORRENT AT THIS STAGE n IS THE PLACE TO GET THE SINGLE BEST MERINGUE IN 3WITZER LAND SEE BELOW AND IS ALSO THE TRAILHEAD FOR MANY WILDERNESS HIKES PRINCIPALLY THE TOUGH PATH THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS TO THE M "RIENZER 2OTHORN HR FROM WHERE A RACK RAILWAY CAN TAKE YOU DOWN TO "RIENZ SEE P &ROM 3CHANGNAU THE MAIN ROAD CROSSES THE %MME AND HEADS NORTH THROUGH %GGIWIL TO ,ANGNAU CROSSING NINE PICTURESQUE WOODEN COVERED BRIDGES THAT ARE TYPICAL OF THE AREA &ROM %GGIWIL YOU CAN ALSO REACH ,ANGNAU BY A PARALLEL ROAD FURTHER WEST OVER THE CREST OF #HUDERHàSI M WHICH OFFERS SPEC TACULAR VIEWS OVER THE %MMENTAL HILLS AND VALLEYS BACKED BY THE SNOWY !LPS
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4HERE ARE CAMPSITES AROUND THE AREA MODEST -ETTLEN AT 'OHL KM NORTH OF ,ANGNAU AND 3TERNEN AT -ARBACH OR THE HIGH QUALITY 7ALDEGG AT "URGDORF !PRILn3EPT 4HE SPARTAN () HOSTEL *UGENDHERBERGE -OOSEGGSTRASSE IN ,ANGNAU WWW YOUTHHOSTELCH CLOSED /CT HAS DORM BEDS &R AS DO THE "ERGHOTELS ON THE SUMMITS OF THE .APF AND THE -ARBACHEGG /THERWISE EVERY HAMLET HAS ITS CHOICE OF SMALL SCALE COUNTRY INNS WHICH DOUBLE AS HOTEL AND RESTAURANT VIRTUALLY ALL OF WHICH BIG AND SMALL USE FARM FRESH PRODUCE AND INGREDIENTS BROUGHT STRAIGHT INTO THE KITCHEN FROM THAT MORNINGS MARKET n BAD %MMENTALER COOKING IS A CONTRADICTION IN TERMS !FFOL TERN FOR INSTANCE HAS THE 3ONNE WWWSONNE AFFOLTERNCH WITH A FEW PLEASANTLY RENOVATED ROOMS ABOVE A GOOD LOCAL RESTAURANT WHILE DOMINATING THE CENTRE OF ,ANGNAU IS THE EXCELLENT (IRSCHEN WWWHIRSCHEN LANGNAUCH A HUGE INN IN TYPICAL %MMENTALER STYLE )N FAR mUNG +EMMERIBODEN IS THE WONDERFUL +EMMERIBODEN "AD WWWKEMMERIBODENCH WITH COMFORTABLE ROOMS SUPERB LOCAL COOKING AND DELECTABLE HOME MADE MERINGUES
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3/,/4(52. 3OLEURE IN &RENCH SOME KM NORTH OF "ERN AT THE CONmU ENCE OF THE %MME AND THE !ARE IS TOUTED AS THE MOST BEAUTIFUL "AROQUE CITY IN 3WITZERLAND n WITH JUSTIlCATION )TS COMPACT BUT CHARACTERFUL /LD 4OWN IS CRAMMED WITH AN ODD ARCHITECTURAL MIX OF 3WISS 'ERMAN STURDINESS AND )TALI ANATE EXCESS DATING FROM THE TOWNS HEYDAY IN THE SEVENTEENTH AND EIGHTEENTH CENTURIES )TS AN EASY DAY TRIP FROM POINTS ALL OVER THE -ITTELLAND WITH A COUPLE OF lNE "AROQUE CHURCHES A WORTHWHILE ART GALLERY AND A HIGH VIEWPOINT NEARBY FOR BREEZY WALKS )N #ELTIC TIMES 3ALODURUM WAS A FORTIlED TOWN AFTER 2OMAN DOMINATION AND !LEMANNIC INVASION IT WAS ONLY IN THE TENTH CENTURY THAT 3OLOTHURN REDIS COVERED SOME STABILITY 7ITH THE DEMISE OF THE :ËHRINGEN DYNASTY IN THE CITY EXPANDED ITS TERRITORY TO FORM A BUFFER ZONE BETWEEN "ERN AND "ASEL AND JOINED THE 3WISS #ONFEDERATION IN )N THE DECADES FOLLOWING DESPITE THE TURMOIL OF THE 2EFORMATION ALL AROUND 3OLOTHURN REMAINED #ATHOLIC AND SO IN WAS CHOSEN BY THE #ATHOLIC AMBASSADORS OF THE KING OF &RANCE AS THEIR PLACE OF RESIDENCE &OR MORE THAN YEARS THESE &RENCH AMBASSADORS OVERSAW 3OLOTHURNS REDEVELOPMENT IN THE CONTEMPORARY "AROQUE STYLE 3OME DESTRUCTION FOLLOWED THE REVOLUTION BUT MUCH OF 3OLOTHURNS GRACEFUL /LD 4OWN HAS SURVIVED 4HESE DAYS ITS A LIVELY COSMOPOLITAN PLACE WITH THRIVING INDUSTRY WATCHMAKING AND PRECISION MANUFACTURING lGURE LARGE AND A VARIED MIXTURE OF ETHNICITIES ON ITS STREETS
"SSJWBM JOGPSNBUJPOBOEBDDPNNPEBUJPO 3OLOTHURN IS ON THE MAIN 3"" TRAIN LINE BETWEEN "IEL"IENNE AND THE BIG RAIL JUNCTION AT /LTEN )TS ALSO SERVED BY REGULAR MINI TRAINS FROM "ERN OPERATED BY 2"3 WWWRBSCH THESE DONT APPEAR ON THE BIG DEPARTURES BOARD IN "ERN STATION n AIM INSTEAD FOR PLATFORMS 5n 3OLOTHURNS TRAIN STATION IS A FEW MINUTES WALK SOUTH OF THE RIVER 2ÚTISTRASSE IS THE HIGHWAY HEADING NORTH FROM IN FRONT OF THE STATION BUT QUIETER (AUPTBAHNHOFSTRASSE ONE STREET TO THE LEFT WILL DELIVER YOU TO THE PEDESTRIAN ONLY +REUZACKERBRàCKE WHICH LEADS INTO THE /LD 4OWN 2IVER BOATS ON THE !AREFAHRT ROUTE TO AND FROM "IEL"IENNE -AYn/CT SEE P WWWBIELERSEECH DOCK AT THE 2OMANDIE JETTY BESIDE THE RAILWAY BRIDGE TWO BRIDGES WEST UPSTREAM OF THE +REUZACKERBRàCKE 4HE TOURIST OFlCE IS IN THE /LD 4OWN AT THE FOOT OF THE CATHEDRAL STEPS (AUPTGASSE -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM 3AT AMnNOON WWWSOLOTHURN CITYCH WWWMYSOLOTHURNCOM AND RUNS EXCELLENT NINETY MINUTE WALKING TOURS OF THE TOWN BEGINNING FROM THE "ASELTOR -AYn3EPT 3AT PM &R )PUFMT
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#ENTREPIECE OF THE TOWN IS THE MASSIVE 3T 5RSEN +ATHEDRALE DAILY AMn NOON nPM /CTn%ASTER CLOSES PM AN )TALIANATE VISION IN LOCAL GREY WHITE STONE THAT SEEMS TO mOAT ABOVE THE MAIN (AUPTGASSE )TS CROWNED BY A GREENISH TOWER WHICH RISES TO M )NCONGRUOUSLY THE STEPS LEADING UP TO THE ENTRANCE ARE A FAVOURITE SMOKING SPOT FOR THE LOCAL KIDS NOT ALL THE FRAGRANT ODOURS DRIFT ING ABOUT ARE ECCLESIASTICAL INCENSE /VERHEAD THE ,ATIN INSCRIPTION IN GOLD RUNNING AROUND THE BUILDING REFERS TO 3OLOTHURNS PATRON SAINTS 5RSUS AND 6ICTOR WHO REFUSED TO WORSHIP 2OMAN GODS AND WERE MARTYRED 4HE BRIGHT SOARING WEDDING CAKE INTERIOR HAS A RIOT OF INTRICATE STUCCO COVERING THE WHITE STONE WALLS THAT IS TYPICAL OF THE LAVISH LATE "AROQUE ERA IN WHICH THE CHURCH WAS BUILT n 3ANDWICHED BETWEEN SHOPFRONTS BARELY M ALONG (AUPTGASSE IS THE ATMOSPHERIC *ESUIT CHURCH PUSH THE UNREMARKABLE DOOR TO GAIN ENTRY TO THE EXTREMELY REMARKABLE INTERIOR DATING FROM THE S AND ENCRUSTED WITH A DIZZYING AMOUNT OF LACY STUCCOWORK (ALFWAY ALONG (AUPTGASSE OVERLOOKING THE CENTRAL -ARKTPLATZ IS THE :YTGLOGGE 3OLOTHURNS OLDEST BUILDING THE LOWER PART DATING FROM THE TWELFTH CENTURY THE UPPER PART FROM AND THE ASTRO NOMICAL DEVICE IN THE CENTRE FROM 4HE HOUR HAND ON THE GIANT CLOCK FACE IS LONGER THAN THE MINUTE HAND ! FEW STEPS NORTH OF THE CATHEDRAL IS THE DOUGHTY !LTES :EUGHAUS /LD !RSE NAL HOUSING A MODERATELY INTERESTING MUSEUM OF MILITARIA -AYn/CT 4UESn3UN AMnNOON nPM .OVn!PRIL 4UESn&RI nPM 3AT 3UN AMnNOON nPM &R 3-0 4HIS MASSIVE COLLECTION DOCUMENTS 3OLOTHURNS HISTORY OF BATTLES AND BOOTY MOST IMPRESSIVELY WITH A HALL FULL OF SWORDS AND SUITS OF ARMOUR 3OME M EAST IS THE "ASELTOR A CITY GATE DATING FROM (UG THE WALLS NORTH TO THE CORNER BASTION OF THE /LD 4OWN AND YOULL COME TO THE CIRCULAR 2IEDHOLZ TOWER NOW THE LOCATION OF A SUMMER CYCLE OF PRESTIGIOUS CLASSICAL CONCERTS !CROSS THE LAWNS TO THE NORTH LIES THE +UNSTMUSEUM 4UESn&RI AMnNOON nPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM FREE WWWKUNSTMUSEUM SOCH (IGHLIGHTS OF THIS SURPRISINGLY GOOD COLLECTION ARE (OLBEINS 3OLOTHURNER -ADONNA ON A PANEL BACKED BY THE -ADONNA IN THE 3TRAWBERRIES PAINTED BY THE ANONYMOUS -ASTER OF THE 'ARDEN OF 0ARADISE 3OME SPECTACULAR !LPINE CANVASES ARE LED BY &ERDINAND (ODLERS MUCH REPRODUCED PORTRAIT OF A (ERCULEAN 7ILLIAM 4ELL EMERGING FROM A BREAK IN THE CLOUDS /NE OF (ODLERS FAMOUS SEQUENCES OF LARGER THAN LIFE MOVING BODIES DECORATES THE STAIRS WHILE +LIMTS LUSCIOUS 'OLDlSH IS ANOTHER HIGHLIGHT ,AST BUT NOT LEAST WAY ON THE OTHER SIDE OF TOWN ON THE SOUTHERN BANK NEAR THE RIVER BOAT LANDING STAGE IS THE HIGHLY ODD +RUMMER 4URM OR 4WISTED 4OWER A FORTIlCATION OF THE TOWN DATING FROM THE S ,OOKED AT FROM ANY POINT OTHER THAN ITS AXIS OF SYMMETRY IT APPEARS TO BE HOPELESSLY LOPSIDED IN FACT THOUGH ITS BASE IS AN IRREGULAR PENTAGON DUE TO THE TOWERS ORIGINAL LOCA TION AT THE SHARP CORNER OF A BASTION OF ENTRENCHMENTS 4HE SPIRE ALTHOUGH IT SEEMS ABOUT TO TOPPLE OFF ANY MINUTE HAS BEEN SAFE AND SECURE THESE PAST lVE
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3OME KM SOUTHWEST OF "ERN &2)"/52' &REIBURG IN 'ERMAN IS ONE OF 3WITZERLANDS BEST KEPT SECRETS )TS WINNINGLY ATTRACTIVE MEDIEVAL /LD 4OWN ALMOST PERFECTLY PRESERVED IS SET ON A FORESTED PENINSULA IN A MEANDER OF THE 2IVER 3ARINE 3TEEP COBBLED STREETS BEDECKED WITH WROUGHT IRON LAMP STANDARDS AND ORNATE INN SIGNS ARE PICTURESQUE AND CHARACTERFUL 3IX BRIDGES FROM MEDIEVAL WOODEN FORDS TO LOFTY MODERN VALLEY SPANS PROVIDE WOODCUT PRETTY VIEWS ACROSS THE TOWN OF THE OLD HOUSES PILED UP TOGETHER ON THE SLOPES "UT THE VIEWS ONLY SCRATCH THE SURFACE &OR BEHIND ITS VISUAL CHARM &RIBOURG IS PERHAPS 3WITZERLANDS MOST AMIABLE AND EASY GOING TOWN THOROUGHLY MODERN AT HEART DESPITE THE MEDIEVAL APPEARANCE OF SOME QUARTERS )TS SMALL ENOUGH TO HAVE KEPT MOST OF ITS CITY CENTRE RESIDENTIAL BUT LARGE ENOUGH TO HAVE ATTRACTED A LIVELY COSMOPOLITAN MIX OF PEOPLE TO FUEL THE COMMUNITY ATMOSPHERE /NE OF THE COUNTRYS MOST PRESTIGIOUS UNIVERSITIES n AND ITS SOLE #ATHOLIC ONE n ATTRACTS STUDENTS FROM ALL OVER THE COUNTRY AND ESPECIALLY FROM )TALIAN SPEAKING 4ICINO GENERATING A SOCIAL DYNAMISM THAT IS TANGIBLE ON THE STREETS
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"ERTOLD )6 OF :ËHRINGEN FOUNDED &RIBOURG IN AS PART OF HIS CONSOLIDA TION OF REGIONAL POWER WHICH ALSO SAW THE ESTABLISHMENT OF "ERN "URGDORF 4HUN AND -URTEN AS WELL AS &REIBURG IM "REISGAU IN 'ERMANY !FTER THE :ËHRINGENS WERE SUCCEEDED BY THE #OUNTS OF +YBURG WHO WERE THEMSELVES BOUGHT OUT BY THE !USTRIAN (ABSBURGS IN &RIBOURG PASSING FROM HAND TO HAND EACH TIME )N 3AVOY TOOK OVER ALTHOUGH IN THE "URGUNDIAN WARS SHORTLY AFTERWARDS &RIBOURG BACKED THE VICTORIOUS 3WISS AGAINST 3AVOY AND SO BECAME A FREE CITY )N IT JOINED THE 3WISS #ONFEDERATION &OR REASONS WHICH HAVENT BEEN FULLY EXPLAINED &RIBOURG REMAINED #ATHOLIC THROUGHOUT THE 2EFORMATION AND IS STILL DETERMINEDLY #ATHOLIC TODAY VIRTU ALLY SURROUNDED BY 0ROTESTANT "ERN IT BECAME A PLACE OF REFUGE FOR THE EXILED BISHOPS OF 'ENEVA AND ,AUSANNE 4HE RULING FAMILIES RETAINED THEIR GRIP ON POWER EVEN THROUGHOUT THE UPHEAVALS AND IN &RIBOURG JOINED THE REACTIONARY 3ONDERBUND lGHTING AGAINST 0ROTESTANT LIBERALISM ALL AROUND )T LOST AND SUFFERED EXPULSION OF ITS *ESUITS AS REVENGE )NTOLERANCE WAS SHORT LIVED
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4HE 2IVER 3ARINE 3AANE IN 'ERMAN WHICH CARVES A PATH THROUGH THE TOWN IS THE LOCAL DElNING LINE OF THE 2ÚSTIGRABEN &RIBOURG IS SPLIT ROUGHLY BETWEEN &RENCH 3WISS WHO CALL THEIR TOWN FREE BOOR AND ARE A MAJORITY ON THE WESTERN BANK AND 'ERMAN 3WISS TO WHOM THE PLACE IS FRY BERG AND WHO FORM A MAJORITY ON THE EASTERN BANK 4HE TOWNS RADIO STATION HAS TWO SEPARATE CHAN NELS MANY STREETS HAVE TWO NAMES AND ALMOST EVERYONE IS INSTINCTIVELY BILINGUAL 3OME OF &RIBOURGS OLDER FOLK EVEN CLING ON TO THE ANCIENT "OLZE DIALECT A MIXTURE UNSURPRISINGLY OF &RENCH AND 'ERMAN WHICH YOU MIGHT BE ABLE TO CATCH IN THE TAVERNS AND PUBLIC SQUARES OF THE "ASSE 6ILLE ,OWER 4OWN 7ITHIN EASY REACH OF BOTH "ERN AND ,AUSANNE &RIBOURG IS AN UNDERSTATED TOWN &OR THE TIME PRESSED MUST SEE VISITOR IT MERITS BARELY AN HOUR OR TWO n WHICH IS ALL THE BETTER FOR THOSE ON A LONG SLOW JOURNEY OF FAMILIARITY AROUND 3WITZERLAND WHO COULD SPEND A WEEK IN THE PLACE AND NOT SEE IT ALL
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&RIBOURGS TRAIN STATION IS HIGH ON THE HILL OVERLOOKING THE /LD 4OWN FROM THE NORTHWEST WITH THE BUS TERMINAL BENEATH !S YOU EMERGE FROM THE STATION !VENUE DE LA 'ARE HEADS AT AN ANGLED LEFT DOWN TO THE CENTRAL 0LACE 0YTHON PRONOUCED PEE TOHH &ROM HERE THE /LD 4OWN COVERS THE HILL IN FRONT OF YOU 2UE DE ,AUSANNE IS THE MAIN THOROUGHFARE HEADING EAST AND DOWN TO THE "OURG DISTRICT CENTRED ON 0LACE .OTRE $AME AKA 0LACE 4ILLEUL AND THE CATHEDRAL &ROM THE "OURG STEEP LANES CASCADE SOUTH DOWN THE HILLSIDE INTO .EUVEVILLE WHILE 'RAND2UE HEADS EAST DOWN TO !UGE THE OLDEST PART OF THE /LD 4OWN AT THE TIP OF &RIBOURGS PENINSULA )TS A WALK OF ABOUT KM n DOWN HILL ALL THE WAY n FROM THE STATION TO !UGE 4HE TOURIST OFlCE IS BESIDE THE STATION n TURN RIGHT AS YOU COME OUT -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM /CTn!PRIL 3AT CLOSES PM WWWFRIBOURGTOURISMCH WWWPAYS DE FRIBOURGCH #HEERY STAFF CAN PROVIDE INFORMATION ON THE CITY AND THE WHOLE CANTON WHICH EXTENDS AS FAR SOUTH AS 'RUYÒRES COVERED IN #HAPTER AND ALSO TAKES IN -URTEN-ORAT AND %STAVAYER LE ,AC IN #HAPTER !SK FOR DETAILS ON THE MANY EASY COUNTRYSIDE WALKS WHICH START FROM THE CITY CENTRE 6EGETABLE AND mOWER MARKETS OCCUPY 0LACE 0YTHON 7ED MORNING AND THE AREA AROUND THE (ÙTEL DE 6ILLE 3AT MORNING ALL YEAR ROUND 4HE 0LACE DU 0ETIT 3T *EAN FEATURES A TRADITIONAL mEA MARKET ON THE lRST 3ATURDAY OF THE MONTH !PRILn.OV WHILE THERES A CRAFTS MARKET ON 2UE DE ,AUSANNE ON THE LAST 3ATURDAY OF THE MONTH -ARCHn$EC $JUZUSBOTQPSU
&RIBOURG IS DElNITELY A WALKING CITY BUT THE HILLS ARE STEEP ENOUGH THAT YOU MAY WANT TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF AT LEAST ONE BUS LINE WWWTPFCH BUS RUNS EVERY lFTEEN MINUTES ON A HANDY ROUTE BETWEEN !UGE AND THE STATION RUNNING VIA 0LACE DU 0ETIT 3T *EAN 0LANCHE 3UPÏRIEURE AND .EUVEVILLE 4HIS IS THE ONLY BUS TO SERVE THE LOWEST REACHES OF THE PENINSULA )NDIVIDUAL TICKETS ARE &R OR YOU COULD GET A GENERAL CITY PASS FOR ONETHREE DAYS &R "IKE RENTAL IS AVAILABLE FROM THE STATION -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM
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*UST SOUTH OF THE TRAIN STATION THE GRASSY OPEN 'RANDS 0LACES MARKS AN ENTRY INTO THE COMMERCIAL HEART OF THE CITY OVERLOOKED BY DEPARTMENT STORES AND AN UGLY TOWER BLOCK HOTEL n SHOWN TO BE EVEN UGLIER BY ITS PROXIMITY TO A BEAUTIFUL SHUTTERED MEDIEVAL HOUSE ON THE SQUARE NOW A CAFÏ 4HE ENSEMBLE IS MOCKED BY ONE OF *EAN 4INGUELYS FAMOUS FOUNTAINS A SPOUTING SPITTING AFFAIR INSTALLED IN AND DESCRIBED BY ONE CRITIC AS hA lREWORK IN IRON AND WATERv 3HOPPING STREETS LEAD EAST TO THE BUSY 0LACE 0YTHON AT THE CENTRE OF THE MODERN CITY &ROM HERE THREE ROUTES LEAD YOU INTO THE /LD 4OWN 4O THE SOUTH THE TRAFlCKY 2OUTE DES !LPES IS SUPPORTED ON PILLARS ABOVE .EUVEVILLE ITS VALLEY SIDE RAILINGS OFFER WONDERFUL VIEWS OF THE RIVER AND OF &RIBOURGS RUSTIC LOCATION 4HE CENTRAL 2UE DE ,AUSANNE A PICTURESQUE COBBLED THOROUGHFARE OF PAVEMENT CAFÏS AND BOOKSHOPS HEADS DIRECTLY DOWNHILL FROM 0LACE 0YTHON )TS WORTH THOUGH CUTTING NORTH FROM 0YTHON ON THE NARROW STEEPLY RISING 2UELLE DE ,YCÏE UP TO THE ATMOSPHERIC MEDIEVAL #OLLÒGE 3T -ICHEL FOR MOST OF ITS HISTORY A *ESUIT SEMINARY AND NOW PART OF &RIBOURG 5NIVERSITY THE SHADED GROUNDS OF THE ACADEMY ARE VERY PEACEFUL AND THERES A TERRACE FROM WHERE YOU CAN LOOK OUT OVER THE CITY !NCIENT COVERED STEPS THE %SCALIERS DU #OLLÒGE LEAD DOWN FROM THE TERRACE TO JOIN THE LOWER END OF 2UE DE ,AUSANNE 5IF#PVSH
!LL ROUTES FROM THE NEW TOWN CONVERGE IN THE /LD 4OWNS MOST HISTORICALLY IMPORTANT DISTRICT KNOWN AS THE "OURG HOME TO CHURCHES THE CATHEDRAL THE TOWN HALL AND AN ARRAY OF MANSIONS AND PATRICIAN TOWN HOUSES 4HE "OURGS CENTRAL SQUARE IS A SMALL SPACE WITH FOUR NAMES !T THE FOOT OF 2UE DE ,AUSANNE IS 0LACE DE .OVA &RIBURGO WITH OPPOSITE IT 0LACE DE L(ÙTEL DE 6ILLE NEXT TO IT IS A TREE LINED SQUARE KNOWN EITHER AS 0LACE DES /RMEAUX %LM 4REES OR 0LACE DE 4ILLEUL ,IME 4REE AND NEXT TO THAT IS 0LACE DE .OTRE $AME *UST TO CONFUSE MATTERS THE INDETERMINATE M LONG 2UE DU 0ONT -URÏ CONNECTS THEM ALL !N IMPRESSIVE PRESENCE TO ONE SIDE IS THE LATE 'OTHIC (ÙTEL DE 6ILLE 4OWN (ALL A HIGHLY PHOTOGENIC BUILDING DATING FROM n WHOSE DOUBLE EXTERIOR STAIRCASE WAS ADDED IN 3T 'EORGE SPEARS THE DRAGON ON A FOUN TAIN STATUE DATING FROM IN THE SQUARE IN FRONT OF THE BUILDING ! REGULAR 3ATURDAY MORNING MARKET SPILLS OVER INTO THE STREETS AROUND ONE OF WHICH 2UE DES ³POUSES 3TREET OF 3POUSES IS SPANNED BY A DECORATIVE OLD SIGN ATTESTING TO THE lDELITY OF THE COUPLES WHO ONCE LIVED THERE 4HE DOURLY IMPRESSIVE 'RAND2UE HEADS OFF DOWN THE HILL A VIRTUALLY INTACT EXAMPLE OF A SEVENTEENTH TO EIGHTEENTH CENTURY STREET COMPLETE WITH "AROQUE 2EGENCY 2OCOCO AND ,OUIS 86) FACADES JOSTLING FOR POSITION ALL THE WAY DOWN
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&RIBOURGS HIGHLIGHT IS THE TOWERING (IGH 'OTHIC #ATHÏDRALE 3T .ICOLAS -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM JUST OFF 0LACE .OTRE $AME 4AKE A MOMENT TO VIEW THE SOARING BUTTRESSED TOWER EXPOSED TO VIEW FOR ITS ENTIRE M HEIGHT CLEAR TO THE RING OF FEATHERY SPIRES ON TOP "UILT OVER A CHURCH DATING FROM THE CITYS FOUNDATION IN THE PRESENT BUILDING WAS BEGUN IN AND TOOK TWO CENTURIES TO COMPLETE 4RAFlC SWISHES PAST THE ELABORATE MAIN PORTAL FEATURING A TYMPANUM WITH THE ,AST *UDGEMENT 4HE VAST INTE RIOR IS IMMEDIATELY IMPRESSIVE ITS MUSTINESS AND GLOOMINESS REDOLENT WITH OLD INCENSE 4HE PULPIT AND OPPOSITE IT THE OCTAGONAL FONT ARE BOTH PARTICULARLY ORNATE AND THE TRACERY CHOIR SCREEN IS DAZZLINGLY INTRICATE 6IRTUALLY ALL THE STAINED GLASS IN THE CATHEDRAL IS MODERN !RT .OUVEAU $ONT MISS THE TINY #HAPEL OF THE (OLY 3EPULCHRE TO THE LEFT OF THE DOOR AS YOU HEAD OUT BESIDE A PLAQUE COMMEMORATING THE MASS CELEBRATED HERE BY 0OPE *OHN 0AUL )) IN INSIDE YOULL lND A GROUP OF lGURES SCULPTED FROM SANDSTONE IN ABOUT #HRIST IS BEING LAID IN THE TOMB BY .ICODEMUS AND *OSEPH OF !RIMATHEA BEHIND -ARY IS SUPPORTED BY *OHN THE "APTIST -ARY -AGDALENE TWO OTHER WOMEN AND TWO ANGELS 4HREE SLEEPING SOLDIERS ARE PLACED NEARBY 4HE LIFE SIZED ENSEMBLE DRENCHED IN A BLUEISH SUBMARINE LIGHT FROM MODERN STAINED GLASS WINDOWS IS EXTRAORDINARILY MOVING EVERY STONY lGURE CONVEYING AN INTENSE EMOTION THAT EFFORTLESSLY SPANS THE SIX CENTURIES IT HAS STOOD HERE !BOUT M NORTH OF THE CATHEDRAL IS THE PORTICOED "ASILIQUE .OTRE $AME WITH WHITE AND GOLD STUCCOWORK DATING FROM THE LATE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY ADORNING THE SPACIOUS AIRY INTERIOR 3AMSON PRISES APART THE LIONS JAWS ON A FOUNTAIN STATUE IN FRONT COPIED FROM A DESIGN BY $àRER !DJACENT ON 2UE DE -ORAT IS THE %SPACE *EAN 4INGUELY MUSEUM SEE BELOW WITH BESIDE IT THE &RANCISCAN ³GLISE DES #ORDELIERS /RIGINALLY PART OF A FRIARY FOUNDED IN THE CHURCH WAS RENOVATED IN THE EIGHTEENTH AND NINETEENTH CENTURIES BUT RETAINS ITS IMPRESSIVE MEDIEVAL DECOR INCLUDING A VAST ALTAR PAINTING SHOWING THE CRUCIlXION AND ON THE OPENED WINGS THE ADORATION (IGH 'OTHIC OAK CHOIR STALLS THE OLDEST IN 3WITZERLAND AND A LARGER THAN LIFE STATUE OF #HRIST AT THE WHIPPING POST ALSO STAND OUT "ETWEEN THE TWO IS THE -USÏE 'UTENBERG 0LACE .OTRE $AME 7EDn3AT AMnPM 4HURS UNTIL PM 3UN AMnPM &R WWWGUTENBERGMUSEUMCH WITH ENGAGING DISPLAYS OF PRINTING GRAPHICS AND BOOKBINDING &TQBDF+FBO5JOHVFMZBOE.VTÏFE"SUFUE)JTUPJSF
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&ROM THE (ÙTEL DE 6ILLE THE ANCIENT COBBLED 2UE DE LA 'RAND &ONTAINE HEADS SHARPLY DOWNHILL INTO .EUVEVILLE n MEN WALKING HERE MAY lND THEMSELVES WHISTLED AND CLICKED AT BY WOMEN HANGING FROM THE TOP WINDOWS OF THE OLD BUILDINGS THIS STREET AMOUNTS TO &RIBOURGS RED LIGHT DISTRICT .EUVEVILLE IS NONETHELESS PERHAPS THE MOST PEACEFUL AND PICTURESQUE AREA OF THE CITY EXEM PLIlED BY THE %SCALIERS DU #OURT #HEMIN 3HORT #UT 3TAIRS 4HEY CLATTER DOWN THE HILL THROUGH A TRIANGULAR OPEN SQUARE ADORNED WITH THE TINKLING &OUNTAIN OF 3TRENGTH ONTO 2UE DE LA .EUVEVILLE WHICH BOASTS WHOLE ROWS OF ORIGINAL 'OTHIC BUILDINGS OVERLOOKED BY THE (ÙTEL DE 6ILLE ON HIGH ! QUIRKY FUNICULAR RUNS DOWN FROM 3T 0IERRE BESIDE 0LACE 0YTHON TO 0LACE DU 0ERTUIS AT THE WESTERN END OF 2UE DE LA .EUVEVILLE DAILY AMnPM &R CITY PASSES VALID IT WORKS BY TAPPING THE CITYS SEWERS AND DIVERTING RAW SEWAGE INTO A CHAMBER BENEATH THE CAR AT THE TOP TO MAKE IT HEAVY ENOUGH TO BE ABLE TO HAUL ITS PARTNER UP THE SLOPE )TS THE SMELLIEST RIDE IN 3WITZERLAND ! BACK STREET OFF 2UE DE LA .EUVEVILLE IS HOME TO THE &RI !RT CONTEMPO RARY ART CENTRE 0ETITES 2AMES 4UESn&RI nPM 4HURS UNTIL PM 3AT 3UN nPM &R WWWFRI ARTCH HOSTING A CHALLENGING ARRAY OF SHOWS OF ANYTHING FROM PAINTING TO VIDEO ART AND MULTIMEDIA &ROM .EUVEVILLE THE TRIPLE ARCHED 0ONT DE 3T *EAN CROSSES THE RIVER AND LEADS PAST A TINY CHURCH UP INTO THE HUGE OPEN 0LANCHE 3UPÏRIEURE OVERLOOKED BY A FOUNTAIN STATUE OF *OHN THE "APTIST AND THESE DAYS USED AS A CAR PARK $OMINATING THE SQUARE IS THE OLD GRANARY IN SHIMMERING WHITE WITH
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DIZZILY ZIGZAGGING STEP GABLES AND EQUALLY DIZZY CHEVRON DESIGN SHUTTERS #AFÏS ON THE SQUARE OFFER INCREDIBLE AFTERNOON PANORAMAS ACROSS THE VALLEY TO THE BACKS OF THE 'RAND2UE MANSIONS ALL OF WHICH ARE SUPPORTED ON FOUNDATIONS THAT PLUNGE AS FAR DOWN TO THE BEDROCK AS THE HOUSE IS BUILT ABOVE THEY MAY SHOW SEVEN OR MORE STOREYS OF WINDOWS TO THE VALLEY BUT ONLY THE UPPERMOST THREE OR FOUR ARE ABOVE THE LEVEL OF THE STREET 3TEPPED PATHS FROM THE SQUARE CLIMB SOUTH UP TO THE RIDGESIDE 0ORTE DE "OURGUILLON AND BESIDE IT ON A LOFTY TERRACE THE #HAPELLE DE ,ORETTE AN ORNATE LITTLE BUILDING DATING FROM THAT OFFERS SPECTACULAR VISTAS OUT OVER THE WHOLE CITY
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&ROM THE CATHEDRAL 'RAND2UE AND ITS PARALLEL NEIGHBOURS CHANNEL TRAFlC DOWN TO CROSS THE LOFTY 0ONT DE :AEHRINGEN LEAVING THE LOWER QUARTER OF THE "ASSE 6ILLE ,OWER 4OWN n KNOWN AS !UGE n MOSTLY TO PEDESTRIANS 4HIS DISTRICT ABSORBED INTO THE CITY AS EARLY AS THE S IS THE OLDEST IN &RIBOURG OUTSIDE THE :ËHRINGENS ORIGINAL FORTRESS WHICH STOOD ON THE SITE OF THE CURRENT (ÙTEL DE 6ILLE )TS FULL OF ATMOSPHERE WITH ITS COBBLED STREETS AND CRUMBLING OLD 'OTHIC HOUSES AND INNS STILL VERY MUCH LIVED IN THE SENSE OF COMMUNITY SURVIVING IN SUCH ANCIENT SURROUNDINGS IS WHAT REALLY MARKS &RIBOURG OUT AS BEING SPECIAL 4HE 0LACE DU 0ETIT 3T *EAN IS THE LOCAL HUB RINGED BY CAFÏS OVERLOOKED FROM THE FOUNTAIN BY 3T !NNE THE PATRON SAINT OF THE TANNERS WHO USED TO LIVE HERE ! LITTLE NORTHWEST IS THE ³GLISE DES !UGUSTINS PART OF A MONASTERY FOUNDED IN THE MID THIRTEENTH CENTURY WITH IMPRESSIVE LATER "AROQUE DECORATION 4HE 0ONT DE -ILIEU BEETLES SOUTHWEST FROM THE SQUARE TO 0LANCHE 3UPÏRIEURE BELOW THE MIGHTY PRECIPICES CUT BY THE 3ARINE TO ONE SIDE OF THE BRIDGE IS THE TITCHY -USÏE 3UISSE DE LA -ARIONNETTE -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN nPM &R WWWMARIONNETTECH WITH A LOVELY COLLECTION OF PUPPETS FACE MASKS AND OTHER THEATRICAL PARAPHERNALIA .ORTHEAST FROM THE 0LACE DU 0ETIT 3T *EAN IS THE COVERED WOODEN 0ONT DE "ERNE LEADING TO THE ANCIENT 2UE DES &ORGERONS 3TREET OF THE "LACKSMITHS ON THE EAST BANK OF THE RIVER 4HE LITTLE BRIDGEHEAD SQUARE ONE OF &RIBOURGS PRETTIEST HOLDS THE CELEBRATED ,OYALTY &OUNTAIN DECORATED WITH ANGELS 4O THE LEFT NORTHWEST IS THE 0ORTE DE "ERNE A CITY GATE DATING FROM THAT HAS SOMEHOW CLUNG ON TO ITS ORIGINAL DOORS 2UE DES &ORGERONS ITSELF n A NARROW MEDIEVAL TRACK n HEADS EAST INTO THE 'OTTÏRON GORGE BENEATH THE GRACEFUL MODERN 0ONT DE 'OTTÏRON SOME M UP /N THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE STREAM A FOOTPATH LEADS UP TO THE MINUSCULE #HAPEL DE 3T "EAT HUGGING THE ROCKY WALLS OF THE GORGE BUT THE ROAD ITSELF FOLLOWS THE NORTHERN BANK OF THE STREAM INTO THE FOREST PAST OLD MILLS AND COTTAGES 4HE ROMANTIC RIVERSIDE TRAIL IS WELL MARKED AND MAINTAINED DRAWING YOU INTO THE COOL MOSSY GORGE FOR AN HOUR OR SO EAST TO A CROSSING POINT AT !MEISMàHLE FROM HERE HIGH LEVEL ROUTES TO BOTH LEFT AND RIGHT BRING YOU BACK TO THE 0ONT DE "ERNE IN A BIT OVER AN HOUR
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M AND THEN DOWN PAST THE TRANQUIL "ACHALPSEE TO &IRST AND 'RINDELWALD ROUGHLY HR 4HIS IS WORTH DOING AT ANY TIME BUT IF YOURE AROUND IN *ULY AND !UGUST GRAB THE UNIQUE OPPORTUNITY TO WALK THE ROUTE BY MOONLIGHT ON THE TWO 3ATURDAY NIGHTS WITH THE FULLEST MOON TRAINS LEAVE )NTERLAKEN /ST AT PM BRINGING YOU TO 3CHYNIGE 0LATTE BY PM FROM WHERE A LOCAL GUIDE LEADS YOU ALONG THE SIX HOUR TRAIL !SK THE )NTERLAKEN TOURIST OFlCE FOR MORE DETAILS 4HE STANDARD FARE FROM )NTERLAKEN IS &R RETURN 3WISS 0ASS HALF PRICE OR &R AFTER PM TWO KIDS CAN TRAVEL FREE WITH A FARE PAYING ADULT "UYING A CHEAPER TICKET TO THE MIDWAY STATION OF "REITLAUENEN AND ENJOYING THE VIEWS ON THE WALK TO THE TOP HR MIN IS NO HARDSHIP %VERY 7EDNESDAY IN *ULY AND !UGUST TRAINS DEPART 7ILDERSWIL AT AM TO CATCH THE SUMMIT SUNRISE WITH THE OPTIONAL EXTRA OF BREAKFAST &R AT THE +ULM HOTEL
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4HE BUS FROM ,AUTERBRUNNEN TO THE 4RàMMELBACH &ALLS CONTINUES TO 34%#( %,"%2' M A PEACEFUL HAMLET AT THE END OF THE ROAD )T HAS A MINUSCULE TOURIST OFlCE WWWSTECHELBERGCH OPEN LIMITED HOURS 3TECHELBERG IS THE STARTING POINT FOR THE CABLE CAR RIDE SEE BELOW UP TO 'IMMELWALD -àRREN AND THE 3CHILTHORN THE HUGE BASE STATION COMPLEX IS KM BEFORE THE HAMLET "USES STOP HERE AND TERMINATE AT THE END OF THE ROAD IN FRONT OF THE (OTEL 3TECHELBERG HOTEL STECHELBERGCH A lNE OLD HIKERS INN WITH CREAKY ROOMS UPSTAIRS 2OUND THE CORNER ARE DORM BEDS IN THE FRIENDLY .ATURFREUNDEHAUS !LPENHOF WWW ALPENHOF STECHELBERGCH &R "EYOND 3TECHELBERG TRAILS CONTINUE INTO THE UNDEVELOPED AND UNPOPULATED UPPER PART OF THE VALLEY WHICH FORMS PART OF THE HIKING CIRCUIT DESCRIBED IN THE BOX ON P /NLY THE HARDIEST FOLK VENTURE HERE BUT THE TRAILS ARENT DIFlCULT AND CAN OFFER SOME OF THE MOST REWARDING HIKES IN THE REGION BOTH FOR THE SPECTACULAR VIEWS AND FOR THE ISOLATION 4HERE ARE NO ROADS AND A SHORT DISTANCE BEYOND 3TECHELBERG BEGINS A LARGE AREA OF LAND PROTECTED AS A NATURE RESERVE 4HREE COMFORTABLE OLD INNS ALONG THE MAIN TRAIL ALL OPEN -AY TO /CTOBER ONLY AND ALL REQUIRING ADVANCE RESERVATION MIGHT PERSUADE YOU TO STAY A NIGHT OR TWO !N HOUR BEYOND 3TECHELBERG IS THE "ERGHAUS 4RACHSELLAUENEN A PRETTY HALF TIMBERED HOUSE SET IN THE WOODS AN HOUR AND A QUARTER FURTHER IS THE ATMOSPHERIC AND CHARACTERFUL (OTEL 4SCHINGELHORN WHILE TWENTY MINUTES ON UP THE TRAIL IS THE /BERSTEINBERG A WORKING FARM THAT RELIES ON CANDLELIGHT AFTER DARK AND HAS NO SHOWERS
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/N THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE VALLEY FROM -àRREN TRAINS BOUND FOR +LEINE 3CHEIDEGG SEE P GRIND UP FROM ,AUTERBRUNNEN TO 7%.'%. M ANOTHER GORGEOUS CAR FREE HAVEN PERCHED ON A SHELF OF TRANQUIL SOUTHWEST FACING MEADOW 7ENGEN IS ONE OF 3WITZERLANDS BEST KNOWN SKI RESORTS SEE P FOR WINTER SPORTS INFORMATION MOST FAMOUS FOR HOSTING 7ORLD #UP DOWNHILL AND SLALOM RACES ON THE ,AUBERHORN EVERY *ANUARY )TS SLIGHTLY BIGGER AND LIVELIER THAN -àRREN BUT STILL NO MORE THAN A CHALET STYLE VILLAGE WITH AS LONG A TRADITION OF HOSPITALITY AS ITS COMPETITOR 4HE RESORT STAYS BUSTLING WITH SKIERS WELL INTO !PRIL /NCE THE SNOWS HAVE RECEDED 7ENGEN SITS AMIDST IDEAL HIKING COUNTRY OVERLOOKED BY THE *UNGFRAU AND THE DISTINCTIVE CREAMY CONE OF THE 3ILBERHORN )TS LOFTY OUTLOOK MEANS IT ENJOYS UNRIVALLED VALLEY SUNSETS
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4HE POSSIBILITIES FOR EXPLORING THE AREA ARE ENDLESS 4HE AREA AROUND &IRST M HAS SOME PARTICULARLY LOVELY HIKING TRAILS FOR SKIING SEE P THE GONDOLA RISES IN THREE STAGES AND FROM THE HOTELRESTAURANT ON TOP RELATIVELY EASY ROUTES LEAD OFF IN ALL DIRECTIONS n TO THE 3CHWARZHORN SUMMIT HR PASSING THROUGH 3CHILT RENOWNED FOR ITS POPULATION OF MARMOTS OR A HIGH LEVEL ROUTE OVER THE 'ROSSE 3CHEIDEGG PASS HR OR SO OR BACK DOWN TO 'RINDELWALD HR MIN OR BEST OF ALL ON A STUNNING RIDGE TOP WALK TO THE "ACHALPSEE LAKE AND ON TO THE &AULHORN SUMMIT HR MIN WITH ITS ATMOSPHERIC "ERGHAUS &R THE STUNNING SUNSET AND SUNRISE VIEWS FROM HERE ARE ONE OF THE HIGH POINTS OF A WALKING TOUR OF 3WITZERLAND 3CHYNIGE 0LATTE SEE P IS ABOUT THE SAME DISTANCE AGAIN FURTHER ON 4HE CABLE CAR -AYn/CT UP TO 0lNGSTEGG M AND THE LITTLE CAFÏ AT THE TOP STATION WITH ITS GIANT VIEWS MAKE FOR A PLEASANT EXCURSION FOR NON ATHLETIC TYPES AN INTERESTING TRAIL LEADS FOR A LITTLE OVER AN HOUR FROM 0lNGSTEGG THROUGH VARYING GEOLOGICAL FORMATIONS ON THE SLOPES OF THE -ETTENBERG THE "REITLOU WINA TERRACE IS CELEBRATED FOR ITS EVIDENCE OF GLACIAL ACTION TO THE /BERERGLET SCHER SEE BELOW FROM WHERE AN EASY VALLEY mOOR HOURS STROLL BRINGS YOU BACK INTO 'RINDELWALD 'RUND STATION IS THE START FOR SEVERAL lNE WALKS INCLUDING A TWO HOUR RAMBLE UP THE SLOPING PASTURELAND THROUGH "RANDEGG TO THE "ERGHAUS DES !LPES AT !LPIGLEN WWWALPIGLENCH DORMS &R *UNEn/CT A STOP AT M ON THE +LEINE 3CHEIDEGG TRAIN LINE 3TARTING FROM HERE CUTS THE COST OF THE RIDE UP TO THE *UNGFRAUJOCH AS WOULD CONTINUING UP THE %IGER 4RAIL FROM !LPIGLEN TO THE HUT ALONGSIDE %IGERGLETSCHER STATION A SPECTACULAR BUT STEEP ROUTE HR THAT PASSES DIRECTLY BENEATH THE AWESOME .ORTH &ACE 4HE lVE HOUR TRAIL FROM 'RUND BENEATH THE GONDOLA LINE TO -ËNNLICHEN BRINGS YOU UP THROUGH MEADOWS AND ROLLING OPEN COUNTRYSIDE ALSO WITH THE TOWERING %IGER A CONSTANT PRESENCE &ROM 'RUND IF YOU CROSS THE RIVER AND HEAD SOUTHEAST FOR A FEW MINUTES YOULL COME TO THE 'LETSCHERSCHLUCHT 'LACIER GORGE -AYn/CT DAILY AMnPM &R CATWALKS LEADING YOU FOR KM OR MORE INTO A NARROW DElLE ABOVE THE ,àTSCHINE RIVER WITH EVIDENCE OF GLACIAL EROSION EVERYWHERE INCLUDING POLISHED VALLEY WALLS CORKSCREW POTHOLES AND LUMPS OF GREEN AND PINKISH MARBLE IN THE RIVER BED !N HOURLY BUS FROM 'RINDELWALD STATION OR AN HOURS WALK EAST LEADS YOU CLOSE TO THE ICY CAVERNS OF THE /BERERGLETSCHER n FROM THE (OTEL 7ETTERHORN BUS STOP FOLLOW THE LEAFY TRAIL DOWN TO THE RIVER AND ON THE OTHER SIDE CLIMB THE STAIRS TO THE NOSE OF THE GLACIER 4HERES A MISSABLE ICE GROTTO UP THERE -AYn/CT DAILY AMnPM &R AND A TEN MINUTE WALK FURTHER UP A MUCH MORE DRAMATIC PATH WHICH RUNS ALONGSIDE THE GLACIER ITSELF GIVING SPECTACULAR VIEWS
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3WITZERLANDS MOST POPULAR AND EXPENSIVE MOUNTAIN RAILWAY EXCURSION IS TOUTED ENDLESSLY THROUGHOUT THE /BERLAND UNDER THE SHOUTLINE h4OP OF %UROPEv FOR ONCE THOUGH THE REALITY JUSTIlES THE HYPE 4RAINS TRUNDLE THROUGH LUSH COUNTRYSIDE SOUTH FROM )NTERLAKEN BEFORE COILING SPECTACULARLY UP ACROSS THE HIGH PASTURES ABOVE EITHER 7ENGEN OR 'RINDELWALD BREAKING THE TREELINE AT +LEINE 3CHEIDEGG AND TUNNELLING CLEAN THROUGH THE %IGER TO EMERGE AT THE *5.'&2!5*/#( AN ICY WINDSWEPT COL AT M JUST BELOW THE *UNGFRAU SUMMIT 4HIS IS THE HIGHEST TRAIN STATION IN %UROPE AND OFFERS AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE OF THE MOUNTAINS YOUD BE MISSING OUT IF YOU DECIDED AGAINST SHELL ING OUT THE EXORBITANT SUMS NECESSARY TO GET THERE 4RAINS RUN ALL YEAR ROUND COME RAIN FOG SNOW OR SHINE (OWEVER GOOD WEATHER IS ESSENTIAL FOR THE VIEWS IF THERES A HINT OF CLOUD YOUD BE WASTING YOUR TIME HEADING UP #HECK THE PICTURES FROM THE SUMMIT BROADCAST LIVE ON WWWJUNGFRAUCH AND ON CABLE 46 THROUGHOUT THE REGION FOR AN IDEA OF THE WEATHER CONDITIONS OR ASK YOUR HOTEL OR NEAREST TOURIST OFlCE FOR THE LATEST FORECASTS 2EMEMBER TOO THAT IT TAKES TWO AND A HALF HOURS TO REACH THE SUMMIT FROM )NTERLAKEN AND WEATHER CONDITIONS CAN CHANGE RAPIDLY ON THE JOURNEY 9OU SHOULD ALSO BRING SUNGLASSES WITH YOU THE SNOWS NEVER MELT UP HERE AND IF THE SKY IS BLUE THE SUNS GLARE AND GLITTER CAN BE PAINFUL 4HERE ARE TWO ROUTES TO THE TOP "/" TRAINS HEAD SOUTHWEST FROM )NTERLAKEN /ST ALONG THE VALLEY mOOR TO ,AUTERBRUNNEN FROM WHERE YOU PICK UP THE 7!" MOUNTAIN LINE WHICH CLIMBS THROUGH 7ENGEN TO +LEINE 3CHEIDEGG !LTERNATIVELY DIFFERENT "/" TRAINS HEAD SOUTHEAST FROM )NTERLAKEN /ST TO 'RINDELWALD WHERE YOU CHANGE FOR THE CLIMB ARRIVING AT +LEINE 3CHEIDEGG FROM THE OTHER DIRECTION !LL TRAINS TERMINATE AT +LEINE 3CHEIDEGG WHERE YOU MUST CHANGE FOR THE lNAL PULL TO *UNGFRAUJOCH THE POPULAR PRACTICE IS TO GO UP ONE WAY AND DOWN THE OTHER #URRENTLY THE ADULT ROUND TRIP FARE TO *UNGFRAUJOCH FROM )NTERLAKEN IS A BUDGET CRUNCHING &R /NE WAY TO CUT COSTS IS TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE DISCOUNTED 'OOD -ORNING TICKET &R VALID IF YOU TRAVEL UP ON THE lRST TRAIN OF THE DAY AM FROM )NTERLAKEN AND LEAVE THE SUMMIT BY NOON .OVn!PRIL lRST OR SECOND TRAIN PLUS LATER DEPARTURE PERMITTED 7ALKING SOME SECTIONS OF THE JOURNEY UP OR DOWN IS PERFECTLY FEASIBLE IN SUMMER AND CAN ALSO SAVE PLENTY WITH FARES FROM INTERMEDIATE POINTS ALONG THE ROUTE CONSIDERABLY LOWER 4HE 'OOD -ORNING TICKET FROM ,AUTERBRUNNEN IS &R AM TRAIN FROM 'RINDELWALD &R AM FROM 7ENGEN &R AM FROM +LEINE 3CHEIDEGG &R AM AND FROM %IGERGLETSCHER &R AM %XCELLENT TRANSPORT NETWORKS AND VISTA RICH FOOTPATHS LINKING ALL STATIONS MEAN THAT WITH JUDICIOUS USE OF A HIKING MAP AND TIMETABLE YOU CAN SEE AND DO A GREAT DEAL IN A DAY AND STILL GET BACK TO )NTERLAKEN OR EVEN "ERN OR :àRICH BY BEDTIME
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4RAINS CLIMBING FROM 7ENGEN AND 'RINDELWALD MEET AT +,%).% 3#(%) $%'' M n FOUR BUILDINGS HUDDLED IN THE MOST DRAMATIC OF LOCATIONS DIRECTLY BELOW THE SOARING %IGER .ORDWAND OR .ORTH &ACE OF THE %IGER A SHEER WALL OF ROCK M HIGH 4HE SETTLEMENT IT DOESNT EVEN COUNT AS A HAMLET THRONGS WITH DAYTIME CROWDS SWITCHING TRAINS ON THEIR WAY TO OR FROM THE *UNGFRAUJOCH BUT SEES VIRTUALLY NOBODY STAYING OVERNIGHT 4HE STATION BUILDING WHICH DOUBLES AS THE 2ÚSTIZZERIA RESTAURANT AND -OUNTAIN ,ODGE WWWBAHNHOF SCHEIDEGGCH HAS SPARTAN COMFORTABLE
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.ORTH FROM +LEINE 3CHEIDEGG AWAY FROM THE %IGER A PICTURESQUE NINETY MINUTE TRAIL TO -¯..,)#(%. PERCHED ON A RIDGE AND WITH ONE OF THE BEST MOUNTAIN REFUGES IN THE REGION WWWMAENNLICHENCH n IS PARTICULARLY LOVELY AND VIRTUALLY mAT THE WHOLE WAY &ROM -ËNNLICHEN THE ,7- CABLE CAR DROPS DOWN TO 7ENGEN IN ONE DIRECTION WHILE IN THE OTHER THE ''- GONDOLA GLIDES FOR AN AMAZING HALF HOUR n THE LONGEST GONDOLA LINE IN THE WORLD n ACROSS THE PASTURES TO 'RINDELWALD 'RUND BOTH CLOSED -AY .OV !LL WINTER LONG YOU CAN GET AWAY FROM IT ALL TO AN IGLOO CAMP UP HERE ASK LOCAL TOURIST OFlCES FOR DETAILS OF THE OVERNIGHT PACKAGE WHICH INCLUDES MEALS A POLAR SLEEPING BAG IN YOUR PERSONAL IGLOO AND n FREE OF CHARGE n A MAGNIlCENT SILENT SUNRISE OVER THE MOUNTAINS
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DORMS &R AND ROOMS WHILE THE GRAND OLD "ELLEVUE DES !LPES WWWSCHEIDEGG HOTELSCH INCLUDING HALF BOARD n THE TWO LARGE CHALETS BESIDE THE STATION FOCUS OF THE #LINT %ASTWOOD lLM 4HE %IGER 3ANCTION n HAS HISTORICALLY BEEN THE BASE STATION FOR WORRIED RELATIVES SCANNING THE %IGER WALL TO TRACK THE PROGRESS OF LOVED ONES ENGAGED IN WHATS BECOME KNOWN AS ONE OF THE MOST DIFlCULT MOUNTAINEERING ASCENTS IN THE WORLD 4HE HOTEL DECOR ALL CHINTZY PELMETS WOOD PANELLING AND ARMCHAIRS BY THE lRE IS FROM ANOTHER WORLD n AN ODD COUNTERPOINT TO THE MUDDY BOOT HIKING FRATERNITY WHO TRAMP THE AREA 7ITHIN VIEW BEHIND THE HOTEL IS THE 'RINDELWALDBLICK WWW GRINDELWALDBLICKCH &R A SERVICEABLE RESTAURANT WITH DORMS +LEINE 3CHEIDEGG IS THE TRAILHEAD FOR A WEALTH OF HIGH COUNTRY WALKS (IKES DOWN TO 7ENGEN ROUGHLY HR OR 'RINDELWALD ROUGHLY HR OR UP THE hBACKv OF THE NEARBY ,AUBERHORN HR ARE RELATIVELY EASY GOING 4HERES A TOUGHER ONE HOUR TRAIL UP TO THE %)'%2',%43#(%2 TRAIN STATION M OVERLOOKING THE MASSIVE SHEET OF ICE SLIDING DOWN FROM THE HIGH PEAKS THE STATION HAS WELL MAINTAINED DOUBLE AND TRIPLE ROOMS GUESTHOUSE JUNGFRAU CH ALONGSIDE HUSKY KENNELS ! SUPERB TWO HOUR WALKING TRAIL FROM HERE ARCS AROUND DIRECTLY BENEATH THE LOOMING .ORTH &ACE DOWN TO !LPIGLEN
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MINUTES OF CRISP UNDISTURBED SILENCE AT THE LOFTIEST POINT OF ALL AND BE THE lRST OF THE DAY TO SWEEP THE SNOW OFF THE RAILINGS !T OTHER TIMES YOU MAY HAVE TO QUEUE FOR AN HOUR OR MORE JUST TO GET YOUR NOSE INTO THE FRESH AIR /NCE YOUVE lNISHED AT THE TERRACE ITS EASY TO LEAVE THE BUSTLING SUMMIT STATION BEHIND AND HEAD OUT ACROSS THE SNOWS INTO SOLITUDE AND SILENCE ALTHOUGH YOU MUST STICK TO THE MARKED TRAILS CREVASSES GIVE NO WARNING )F YOUVE HAD EXPERIENCE OF SNOW HIKING IN THE MOUNTAINS AND YOU HAVE GOOD BOOTS A MAP SUNGLASSES AND PROPER CLOTHING LET THE TOURIST OFlCE IN )NTERLAKEN KNOW THAT YOU WANT TO HEAD OUT ON THE SIMPLE ONE HOUR TRAIL FROM THE *UNGFRAUJOCH AROUND THE BASE OF THE -ÚNCH TO THE -ÚNCHSJOCHHàTTE AT M WWWMOENCHSJOCHCH !PRILn-AY *ULYn3EPT DORMS &R HALF BOARD &R n YOU DONT NEED A GUIDE AND THE ISOLATION OF THE HUT OFFERS A NIGHT TO REMEMBER 9OU SHOULD WALK AT HALF PACE OR YOU MAY lND YOURSELF DIZZY AND LABOURING TO CATCH YOUR BREATH ! HANDFUL OF OTHER GLACIER BOUND HUTS ARE DOTTED AROUND THE AREA BUT YOU NEED A MOUNTAIN GUIDE AND ALL THE PROFESSIONAL GEAR TO REACH THEM
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4HE 4HUNERSEE ,AKE 4HUN IS ONE OF THE PRETTIEST IN THE COUNTRY A TRANQUIL PATCH OF MISTY BLUE LOOMED OVER BY HIGH SHORELINE MOUNTAINS 4HE PRESENCE OF THE SNOWY "ERNESE !LPS TO THE SOUTH RANGED ABOVE THE WATER IN A BREATHTAKING PANORAMA CONSTANTLY BECKONS YOU ON 4HUN AT THE NORTHERNMOST TIP OF THE LAKE WHERE THE !ARE mOWS OUT TOWARDS "ERN IS AN ATTRACTIVE OVERNIGHT STOP ON THE WAY INTO OR OUT OF THE MOUNTAINS n MUCH MORE RELAXING THAN )NTERLAKEN n AND SMALL RATHER TWEE LITTLE LAKESIDE RESORTS SUCH AS 3PIEZ CAN PLEASANTLY BREAK A SLOW JOURNEY SOUTH
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/N THE NORTH SHORE BEYOND THE FUNICULAR AT "EATENBUCHT ARE THE 34 "%!453 (¾(,%. 3T "EATUS #AVES WWWBEATUSHOEHLENCH AN IMPRESSIVE SET OF DRIPPY SUBTERRANEAN CHAMBERS lLLED WITH STALACTITES AND STALAGMITES THAT WERE FORMERLY THE RESIDENCE OF THE EARLY #HRISTIAN ASCETIC 3T "EATUS 4HE CAVES ARE TUCKED INTO THE CLIFFS KM NORTHWEST OF )NTERLAKEN ITS A WALK OF ABOUT HR FROM )NTERLAKEN OR YOU CAN TAKE HOURLY BUS WHICH RUNS BOTH WAYS ALONG THE SHORESIDE ROAD BETWEEN 4HUN AND )NTERLAKENS /ST AND 7EST STATIONS )N THE SUMMER ABOUT HALF A DOZEN BOATS A DAY BETWEEN 4HUN AND )NTERLAKEN 7EST STOP AT "EATUSHÚHLEN 3UNDLAUENEN TEN MINUTES WALK SOUTH OF THE CAVE ENTRANCE "EATUS HIMSELF REPUTEDLY CAME FROM "RITAIN 4HE STORY GOES THAT HAVING GIVEN ALL HIS WEALTH TO THE POOR TO FOLLOW #HRIST HE WAS BAPTIZED IN 2OME BY 3T 0ETER AND SENT WITH A COMPANION *USTUS INTO THE !LPS AS THE lRST APOSTLE TO THE HEATHEN (ELVETIANS )N ALL PROBABILITY THOUGH "EATUS WAS ONE OF THE )RISH FOLLOWERS OF 3T #OLUMBA WHO BROUGHT #HRISTIANITY TO 3WITZERLAND IN THE SIXTH CENTURY 7HEN "EATUS AND *USTUS CAME TO THE LAKE LOCAL PEOPLE TOLD THEM OF A TERRIBLE DRAGON WHO OCCUPIED A CAVE OVERLOOKING THE WATER "EATUS CLIMBED UP TO THE CAVE ALONE AND WHEN THE DRAGON EMERGED RAISED HIS CROSS AND SPOKE THE NAME OF THE (OLY 4RINITY THEREBY SENDING THE MONSTER OVER THE CLIFF EDGE INTO THE WATER BELOW "EATUS TOOK OVER ITS CAVE PRAYING AND WORKING MIRACLES UNTIL HIS DEATH AT THE AGE OF ! CULT OF PILGRIMAGE RAPIDLY GREW UP AROUND HIM AND THE CAVE 4ODAY YOU CAN VISIT ONLY ON GUIDED TOURS WHICH DEPART EVERY HALF HOUR !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM &R DURATION HR FROM THE TICKET OFlCE A SHORT CLIMB ABOVE THE LAKESIDE ROAD .OTE THAT A VISIT INVOLVES A FULL KM WALK THROUGH THE CAVES KM EACH WAY WHICH ARE CHILLY YEAR ROUND 9OU CAN LEAVE BAGS AT THE TICKET DESK FOR &R 4HE GUIDES LEAD YOU PAST THE GROTTO WHERE "EATUS REPUTEDLY PASSED HIS DAYS AND THEN ON INTO THE COOL GLOOM OF THE CAVE INTERIOR lLLED WITH THE NOISE OF RUSHING UNDERGROUND STREAMS n THE BEST TIME TO VISIT IS SPRINGTIME WHEN A WET WINTER AND SNOWMELT CONSPIRE TO SHOOT TORRENTS OF WATER THROUGH THE CORKSCREWING CHANNELS
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6ISITABLE CASTLES AND STATELY HOMES ARE DOTTED AROUND THE SHORE OF THE 4HUNERSEE !LL ARE SERVED n AND BEST VISITED n BY BOATS WHICH STOP AT OR VERY CLOSE TO THE CASTLES THEMSELVES 3CHLOSS (àNEGG AT (ILTERlNGEN KM SOUTHEAST OF 4HUN MID -AY TO MID /CT -ONn3AT nPM 3UN AMnPM &R WWWSCHLOSSHUENEGGCH WAS BUILT IN THE S IN THE STYLE OF A ,OIRE CHÊTEAU )T HOUSES AN INTERIOR UNCHANGED SINCE WITH BEDCHAMBERS BOUDOIRS AND HALLS DISPLAYING THE WEALTHIEST OF LIFESTYLES THE OWNER WAS A FORMER OFlCER IN THE 0RUSSIAN ARMY ! COUPLE OF KILOMETRES FURTHER ALONG THE LAKESHORE IS THE MIGHTY 3CHLOSS /BERHOFEN MID -AY TO MID /CT -ON nPM 4UESn3UN AMnPM &R 3-0 SET IN ITS OWN LUSH GARDENS )T DATES FROM THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY AND HOUSES COLLECTIONS OF FURNISHINGS FROM THE "ERN (ISTORICAL -USEUM A RANGE OF RESTORED INTERIORS A STONE mAGGED KNIGHTS HALL SALONS FURNISHED IN %MPIRE STYLE AND EVEN A 4URKISH SELAMLIK OR SMOKING ROOM WAY UP UNDER THE EAVES 4HE FORMAL WATERSIDE PARK -ARCHn.OV DAILY AMnDUSK FREE IS DELIGHTFUL SHADED BY TREES AND PLANTED WITH ALL KINDS OF mOWERS
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/N THE OPPOSITE SOUTHERN SHORE HUDDLED ABOVE AND AROUND A SMALL BAY KM SOUTH OF 4HUN 30)%: IS A GENTLE LITTLE RESORT VILLAGE DOMINATED BY ITS MEDIEVAL WATERSIDE CASTLE AND STUNNING VIEWS OVER THE LAKE TO THE HIGH MOUNTAINS ALL AROUND )T LIES AT A MAJOR RAIL JUNCTION WHERE THE MAIN LINE FROM "ERN SPLITS ONE BRANCH CONTINUES TO )NTERLAKEN ANOTHER CLIMBS SOUTH INTO THE +ANDER VALLEY SEE P TO THE ,ÚTSCHBERG 4UNNEL UNDER THE !LPS AND ON TO "RIG )N ADDI TION TRAINS FROM 3PIEZ HEAD WEST TO :WEISIMMEN 'STAAD AND -ONTREUX ON THE CELEBRATED 'OLDEN 0ASS PANORAMIC ROUTE SEE P 4HE TRAIN STATION IS IN A MODERN SHOPPING AREA HIGH ABOVE THE /LD 4OWN lND YOUR WAY DOWN ON STAIRS AND THE DESCENDING MAIN 3EESTRASSE "OATS FROM 4HUN AND )NTERLAKEN DOCK RIGHT BESIDE THE /LD 4OWN 4HE CASTLE 3CHLOSS 3PIEZ !PRILn/CT -ON nPM 4UESn3UN AMnPM *ULYn3EPT CLOSES PM &R 3-0 DATING FROM THE lFTEENTH AND SIXTEENTH CENTURIES BUT WITH EARLIER FOUNDATIONS WAS THE RESIDENCE OF THE 3TRETLINGEN FAMILY BEFORE PASSING TO THE "ERNESE NOBLE DYNASTIES OF 6ON "UBENBERG AND FROM TO 6ON %RLACH )NSIDE DONT MISS THE "AROQUE BANQUETING HALL 4HE 2OMANESQUE CHURCH ADJA CENT WITH ITS SEVENTEENTH CENTURY SPIRE HAS ORIGINAL FRESCOES IN THE APSE AND THE CRYPT 7ANDERING THROUGH THE TINY LANES AROUND THE CASTLE AND AROUND THE BAY lLLED WITH YACHTS 3PIEZ IS HOME TO A RENOWNED SAILING SCHOOL IS A GOOD WAY TO GET A FEEL FOR THE TOWN 3PIEZS FRIENDLY TOURIST OFlCE IS ON PLATFORM OF THE STATION *ULY !UG -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnNOON nPM REST OF YEAR -ONn&RI AMn NOON nPM -AY *UNE 3EPT ALSO 3AT AMnNOON WWW SPIEZCH 4HE TOWNS POPULARITY WITH HOLIDAYING 'ERMAN AND 3WISS 'ERMAN FAMILIES LEADS TO SOME CONSERVATISM AMONG THE HOTELS "ELLEVUE 3EESTRASSE WWWBELLEVUE SPIEZCH IS A COSY IF UNINSPIRING PLACE WHILE LAKEFRONT !QUA 7ELLE WWWAQUAWELLECH HAS BETTER VIEWS BUT LESS CHARACTER ! FEW KILOMETRES SOUTH AT ,EISSIGEN IS AN () HOSTEL WWWYOUTHHOSTELCH -AYn/CT A PEACEFUL PLACE WITH ONLY A FEW DORM BEDS &R 3EESTRASSE HOLDS A CLUTCH OF INEXPENSIVE TEAROOMS AND PIZZERIAS INCLUDING THE POPULAR "RASSERIE AT NO WWWBRASSERIE CH UP NEAR THE STATION
5IF#SJFO[FSTFFBOECFZPOE 3TRETCHING EAST OF )NTERLAKEN THE "RIENZERSEE ,AKE "RIENZ IS MUCH VAUNTED AS THE CLEANEST LAKE IN 3WITZERLAND BEAUTIFULLY SET IN AN ENCLOSED BOWL AMIDST FORESTED SLOPES STREAMS TUMBLING DOWN FROM ON HIGH OVERLOOKED TO THE SOUTH BY THE &AULHORN M AND TO THE NORTHEAST BY THE "RIENZER 2OTHORN M THE LATTER SERVED BY A NOSTALGIC OLD RACK RAILWAY FROM THE MAIN TOWN OF THE LAKE "RIENZ %AST OF "RIENZ A TORTUOUS ROAD CROSSES THE "RàNIG 0ASS INTO #ANTON /BWALDEN HEADING FOR ,UZERN WHILE THE MAIN ROAD SCOOTS ALONG THE mOOR OF THE (ASLITAL BESIDE THE YOUTHFUL !ARE TO -EIRINGEN SCENE OF THE hDEATHv OF 3HERLOCK (OLMES AND lNAL STAGING POST BEFORE THE MAJOR TRANS !LPINE ROUTES OVER THE 'RIMSEL AND 3USTEN PASSES
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!T THE EASTERNMOST TIP OF THE LAKE "2)%.: HAS A QUIET COMMUNITY FEEL NOT MANY PEOPLE COME VISITING AND MOST THAT DO STOP FOR JUST AN HOUR OR TWO
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BEFORE HEADING ON TO )NTERLAKEN 4HE TOWN IS KNOWN AS A CENTRE OF WOOD CARVING AND HAS MANY WORKSHOPS AND SOUVENIR SHOPS HAWKING EVERYTHING FROM MASS PRODUCED TAT TO QUALITY HAND TOOLED BUSTS lGURINES AND NATIVITY SCENES IN LIMEWOOD "RIENZ ALSO BOASTS THE LAST STEAM DRIVEN RACK RAILWAY IN 3WITZERLAND WITH A lNE OLD BEAST PUFlNG ITS WAY UP THE mOWER STREWN SLOPES FOR AN HOUR FROM THE LAKE AT M TO THE "RIENZ 2OTHORN SUMMIT STATION AT M DAILY *UNEn/CT WWWBRIENZ ROTHORN BAHN CH 4HERE ARE PLENTY OF STROLLS AROUND AND ABOUT ON THE TOP AS WELL AS A TOUGH TRAIL HEADING NORTHWEST THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS TO +EMMERIBODEN SEE P "RIENZ TOURIST OFlCE (AUPTSTRASSE *ULY !UG -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnNOON nPM REST OF YEAR -ONn &RI AMnNOON nPM -AY *UNE ©5 7OODCARVING ©"RIENZ 3EPT ALSO 3AT AMnNOON WWWALPENREGIONCH IS METRES FROM THE JETTY WHERE BOATS DOCK FROM )NTERLAKEN /ST AND DIRECTLY OPPOSITE THE TRAIN STATION ! STONES THROW AWAY IS THE 2OTHORNBAHN STATION DEPARTURE POINT OF THE VINTAGE LOCOS (OTELS INCLUDE SOME GENERIC OPTIONS IN THE n RANGE ALONG THE LAKEFRONT WHILE ON THE 2OTHORN SUMMIT IS THE 2OTHORN +ULM HOTEL WWW BRIENZ ROTHORN BAHNCH WITH PLAIN ROOMS AND DORMS &R "RIENZS COMFORTABLE () HOSTEL IS AT 3TRANDWEG A lFTEEN MINUTE WALK EAST AROUND THE HEAD OF THE LAKE WWWYOUTHHOSTELCH DORMS &R !PRILn/CT !LL ALONG THE WATERFRONT (AUPTSTRASSE ARE ANY NUMBER OF RESTAURANTS ALL OFFERING FRESH LAKE lSH THE BEST IS THE 3TEINBOCK CHALET AT NO CLOSED 4UES A RATHER FUSSY PLACE BUT WITH THE BEST lSH IN TOWN MENUS FROM &R *UST OPPOSITE "RIENZ REACHABLE BY BOAT OR ON A SCENIC LAKESIDE TRAIL FROM THE HAMLET OF )SELTWALD ARE THE 'IESSBACH FALLS WHICH TUMBLE OVER A SERIES OF TERRACES DOWN THE CLIFFSIDE !BOVE STANDS THE 'RANDHOTEL 'IESSBACH WWWGIESSBACHCH n !PRILn/CT SAVED FROM REDEVELOPMENT AND NOW RESTORED TO ITS TURN OF THE CENTURY ELEGANCE 'SFJMJDIUNVTFVN#BMMFOCFSH
.EAR "RIENZ IS THE &REILICHTMUSEUM "ALLENBERG /PEN !IR -USEUM !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM WWWBALLENBERGCH &R 3-0 KM EAST OF THE TOWN A HUGE AREA OF ROLLING PARKLAND WHICH SERVES AS A LIVING SHOWCASE FOR TRADITIONAL 3WISS ARCHITECTURE AND CRAFTS 4HERE ARE TWO ENTRANCES THE 7EST NEAREST "RIENZ AND SOME KM AWAY THE %AST ENTRANCE NEAR "RIENZWILER REGULAR POSTBUSES FROM "RIENZ STATION SERVE BOTH )N BETWEEN ARE THIRTEEN SEPARATE AREAS EACH CONTAINING SEVERAL EXAMPLES OF TRADITIONAL HOUSES FROM DIFFERENT PARTS OF 3WITZERLAND TRANSPORTED HERE PIECE BY PIECE FROM THEIR ORIGINAL SETTINGS REAS SEMBLED AND RESTORED 7ITHIN EACH BUILDING ARE HELD DAILY DEMONSTRATIONS OF TRADITIONAL CRAFTS EVERYTHING FROM NEEDLEWORK TO FAGGOT BINDING 4HE WHOLE PLACE IS FASCINATING BUT ITS REALLY TOO BIG TO ABSORB IN ONE GO YOUD DO WELL TO
SELECT A FEW AREAS FROM THE MUSEUM MAP &R AND AIM FOR THEM ALONE n OR ALTERNATIVELY ASK FOR A DISCOUNTED TWO DAY PASS AND SPREAD YOUR VISIT 4HERE ARE THREE RESTAURANTS ON SITE AS WELL AS GROCERIES WHERE YOU CAN BUY PROVISIONS FOR A BARBECUE FREE lREWOOD PROVIDED
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4HE CREATION OF MERINGUE AND THE DEATH OF 3HERLOCK (OLMES ARE THE TWO CLAIMS TO FAME OF THE OLD TOWN OF -%)2).'%. &ROM THE WAY VISITORS APPROACH THE PLACE THOUGH IT SEEMS THAT MANY HAVE DIFlCULTY DECIDING WHICH STORY IS REAL AND WHICH INVENTED 3ET AT THE HEART OF THE (ASLIBERG HIKING REGION THE TOWN HAS LONG BEEN A FAVOURITE MOUNTAIN WALKING RESORT OF THE %NGLISH 3IR !RTHUR #ONAN $OYLE CREATOR OF 3HERLOCK (OLMES STAYED IN GENTEEL -EIRINGEN MANY TIMES AND THE TOWNS SOLE ATTRACTION IS THE 3HERLOCK (OLMES -USEUM IN #ONAN $OYLE 0LACE -AYn3EPT 4UESn3UN nPM /CTn!PRIL 7ED 3UN nPM &R JOINT TICKET WITH 2EICHENBACH &ALLS FUNICULAR &R 3-0 4HIS INTERESTING LITTLE DEN IS IN THE CELLAR OF THE %NGLISH #HURCH AND INCLUDES A LIFE SIZE REPLICA OF THE DETECTIVES STUDY AT B "AKER 3TREET COMPLETE WITH TAPED COMMENTARY 4HE TOWN CHURCH NORTH OF THE CENTRE ON +IRCHGASSE HAS A FREE STANDING 2OMAN ESQUE TOWER WITH A WOODEN SPIRE SOME FOURTEENTH CENTURY INTERIOR FRESCOES AND REMNANTS BELOW THE CRYPT OF THE ELEVENTH CENTURY PREDECESSOR -EIRINGEN WAS POPULAR ENOUGH WITH %NGLISH VISITORS OF A BYGONE AGE TO ATTRACT NOT ONLY #ONAN $OYLE BUT ALSO SEMI OFlCIAL TRINKET HUNTERS ANCIENT BITS AND PIECES FROM THE OLD CHURCH NOW SIT IN THE VAULTS OF THE "RITISH -USEUM IN ,ONDON
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-EIRINGEN ITSELF IS MUCH LESS APPEALING THAN THE COUNTRYSIDE ALL AROUND 4HE TOURIST OFlCE CAN SUPPLY DETAILS OF THE MANY HIKES IN AND AROUND THE (ASLI VALLEY AND (ASLIBERG REGION BUT THE MOST ACCESSIBLE EXCURSION IS TO THE DRAMATIC 2EICHENBACH &ALLS ! WONDERFUL OLD FUNICULAR -AYn/CT &R JOINT TICKET WITH 3HERLOCK (OLMES -USEUM &R JOINT TICKET WITH !ARESCHLUCHT &R WWWREICHENBACHFALLCH RUNS FROM THE SOUTH OF TOWN UP TO A VANTAGE POINT BELOW THE ROARING FALLS BEST VISITED IN SPRING LADEN WITH SNOWMELT FROM THE GLACIERS FURTHER UPSTREAM 3TEPPED PATHS LEAD UP BESIDE THE FALLS THROUGH THE MOSSY FORESTS TO :WIRGI VILLAGE AT THE FOOT OF THE DRAMATIC 2EICHENBACH VALLEY 4RAILS LEAD ON SOUTHWEST UP THE VALLEY PAST THE HAMLET OF +ALTENBRUNNEN TO 2OSENLAUI WHERE A GRAND FOUR STOREY PILE THE ATMOSPHERIC 2OSENLAUI (OTEL WWW ROSENLAUICH DORMS &R INCL HALF BOARD -AYn/CT STANDS OVERLOOKING A STREAM 4HE HOTEL WAS BUILT A HUNDRED YEARS AGO ITS PUBLIC ROOMS ARE A BREATH OF ELEGANCE FROM A FORMER AGE &ROM 2OSENLAUI TRAILS HEAD ON UP TO 3CHWARZWALDALP BEYOND WHICH PRIVATE CARS ARE FORBIDDEN AND OVER THE 'ROSSE 3CHEIDEGG PASS TO 'RINDELWALD A ROUTE ALSO SERVED BY POSTBUSES FROM -EIRINGEN *UNEn3EPT ! COUPLE OF KILOMETRES EAST OF -EIRINGEN SERVED BY BUSES TO )NNERTKIRCHEN IS THE !ARESCHLUCHT !ARE 'ORGE DAILY *ULY !UG AMnPM !PRILn*UNE 3EPT
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-EIRINGENS TRAIN STATION IS IN THE TOWN CENTRE WITH THE TOURIST OFlCE OPPOSITE *ULY !UG -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnNOON nPM 3EPTn*UNE -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM 3AT AMnNOON nPM WWWALPENREGIONCH (OTELS INCLUDE THE MODERN 6ICTORIA ON "AHN HOFPLATZ WWWVICTORIA MEIRINGENCH n WHICH IS EXCELLENT VALUE #ONAN $OYLES OLD HAUNT THE 0ARKHOTEL DU 3AUVAGE WWWSAUVAGECH n IS STILL AROUND THE MANAGEMENT UNDOUBT EDLY BENElTS BY A FEW FRANCS FROM ASSOCIATIONS WITH FAME BUT CAN STILL COME UP WITH THE APPROPRIATE ATMOSPHERE AND COMFORTS %ATING AND DRINKING IS A CASE OF FOLLOW YOUR NOSE THE 6ICTORIA HAS A DECENT ISH RESTAURANT WITH SOME VEGGIE OPTIONS AS DOES THE !LPIN 3HERPA HOTEL OPPOSITE 4HE BEST MERINGUE IN -EIRINGEN BY ALL ACCOUNTS IS SERVED AT THE LOW KEY #AFÏ "RUNNER "AHNHOFSTRASSE n BUT ON CAREFUL ANALYSIS YOU MAY FEEL THAT THE ONES WHIPPED UP OVER THE MOUNTAINS AT +EMMERIBODEN SEE P STEAL A MARCH
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4HE SECTION OF THE "ERNESE /BERLAND WEST OF THE 4HUNERSEE WHICH HOLDS THE ONLY ROUTE THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS TOWARDS ,AKE 'ENEVA STANDS IN SHARP CONTRAST TO THE ROCK AND ICE OF THE *UNGFRAU REGION "ROAD LEAFY VALLEYS REACH BETWEEN THE PEAKS SHELTERING A HANDFUL OF RESORTS AND QUIET COUNTRY TOWNS WHICH SEE MUCH LESS TOURISM THAN THEIR HECTIC COUNTERPARTS AROUND )NTERLAKEN 4HE ESPECIALLY LOVELY +ANDER VALLEY RUNS SOUTH FROM 3PIEZ CLIMBING TO THE OLD STYLE RESORT VILLAGE OF +ANDERSTEG WHILE THE FORESTED PICTURE PRETTY GORGE OF THE 2IVER 3IMME HEADS WEST THROUGH A SUCCESSION OF OLD VILLAGES lLLED WITH EXAMPLES OF THE LOCAL HEAVY EAVED DARKWOOD CHALETS SOME DATING FROM AS EARLY AS THE S 4HE VALLEY OF THE 3IMMENTAL CURVES SOUTH INTO THE RURAL HILLY 3AANENLAND FOCUSED AROUND THE WORLD FAMOUS SKI RESORT OF 'STAAD #ONTINUING WEST YOU CROSS INTO AN OUTPOST OF &RENCH SPEAKING #ANTON 6AUD WHEREUPON THE SAME ROLLING HILLS AND BROAD QUIET VALLEYS ARE RE TITLED THE 0AYS D%NHAUT
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,ONG A CENTRE FOR MOUNTAINEERING THE PICTURESQUE CHALET STREWN VILLAGE OF +ANDERSTEG M WAS FOR CENTURIES THE TRAILHEAD FOR TRAVELLERS CROSSING THE HIGH MOUNTAIN PASSES INTO #ANTON 6ALAIS )N IT WAS CHANGED FOREVER BY THE COMPLETION OF THE ,ÚTSCHBERG 4UNNEL SEE BOX JUST SOUTH OF THE VILLAGE A CRUCIALLY IMPORTANT RAIL LINK BETWEEN NORTHERN AND SOUTHERN %UROPE n THE ONLY ONE BETWEEN 'ENEVA AND THE 'OTTHARD n WHICH CREATED A THROUGH ROUTE FROM "ERN TO -ILAN !LTHOUGH THE SMALL VALLEY ROAD INTO THE VILLAGE CAN GET HEAVY WITH TRANS !LPINE TRAFlC MOST VEHICLES ARE HEADING FOR THE CAR TRAIN TERMINUS SITUATED ON THE OUTSKIRTS ONCE YOU ARRIVE IN +ANDERSTEG ITSELF ALL IS TRANQUIL 4HE NEW ,ÚTSCHBERG "ASE 4UNNEL SEE BOX HAS ITS ENTRANCE FURTHER NORTH AT &RUTIGEN THUS ENSURING +ANDERSTEG REMAINS QUIET 4HE MAIN REASON TO VISIT IS TO EXPLORE THE COUNTRYSIDE +ANDERSTEG IS A lNE PLACE TO LEARN HOW TO SKI BEGINNERS CAN TEST OUT THEIR SNOWPLOUGH TECHNIQUES
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ON THE EASIEST AND LEAST DAUNTING OF SLOPES WITH OTHER BEGINNERS ALL AROUND AND NOT A TRACE OF BIG RESORT SWAGGER 4HE VILLAGE ITSELF IS STRUNG OUT ALONG THE VALLEY mOOR FOR SEVERAL KILOMETRES LOOMED OVER BY THE $OLDENHORN TO THE SOUTHEAST AND THE &IRST MASSIF TO THE NORTHWEST 0RIME HIKING AND RECREATION SPOT ABOVE THE VILLAGE IS THE DRAMATICALLY CRAG RINGED /ESCHINENSEE WWWOESCHINENSEE CH A SMALL LAKE ACCESSED BY A CHAIRLIFT FROM THE EASTERN EDGE OF THE VILLAGE &ROM THE TOP STATION ITS A TWENTY MINUTE STROLL TO THE LAKE ITSELF WARM AND GLITTERING IN SUMMER AND ICED OVER FOR CROSS COUNTRY SKIING IN WINTER ! HAND FUL OF TRAILS FAN OUT AROUND THE AREA DOTTED WITH MOUNTAIN REFUGES THE TOURIST OFlCE IN +ANDERSTEG HAS A COMPLETE LIST WITH HIKING ROUTES AND THE WALK BACK DOWN TO +ANDERSTEG IS ONLY ABOUT AN HOUR !NOTHER LIFT ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE VALLEY ACCESSES THE !LLMENALP ! TEN MINUTE DRIVE NORTH OF +ANDERSTEG JUST OFF THE MAIN VALLEY mOOR ROAD IS THE UNDERWHELMING "LAUSEE &R WWWBLAUSEECH A PRIVATELY OWNED AREA OF LAND SURROUNDING A TINY BOATING LAKE )TS PLEASANT ENOUGH BUT A BIT OVERBLOWN SINCE ONCE YOU STROLL THROUGH THE TREES TO THE LAKELET ITSELF THERES NOT MUCH TO DO OTHER THAN ORDER A PLATE OF FRESH TROUT ON THE RESTAURANT TERRACE AND WATCH KIDS BOATING AROUND THE LAKE %VEN THE VIEWS ARE HEMMED IN BY THICK PINE WOODS
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+ANDERSTEGS TOURIST OFlCE IS ON THE MAIN STREET JUST AHEAD FROM THE TRAIN STATION *ULYn3EPT $ECn-ARCH -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM 3AT AMn NOON nPM REST OF YEAR -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM WWWKANDERSTEGCH %VEN BEFORE THE ,ÚTSCHBERG 4UNNEL PUT +ANDER STEG ON THE MAP THE VILLAGE HAD A TRADITION OF HOSPITALITY AND ACCOMMODATION IS OF UNIVERSALLY GOOD QUALITY 0LENTY OF PLACES OFFER DORMS INCLUDING THE 2ENDEZVOUS NEAR THE /ESCHINEN CHAIRLIFT &R AND (OTEL .ATIONAL NEAR THE TURNING FOR THE !LLMENALP CHAIRLIFT HOTELNATIISUISSECOM &R 4HERES A GOOD CAMPSITE WWWCAMPING KANDERSTEGCH NEXT TO THE 2ENDEZVOUS
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!T THE END OF +ANDERSTEG VILLAGE BESIDE THE RUSHING +ANDER TORRENT IS A SMALL CROSSROADS 4O THE SOUTHWEST A TORTUOUS PATH CLIMBS INTO THE BLEAK ÄSCHINENTAL WHICH PENETRATES FOR OR KM BETWEEN THE SUMMITS AND IS THE SCENE FOR SOME TOUGH MOUNTAIN BIKE TRAILS AND TOUGHER HIKES UP TO THE 'EMMI 0ASS ABOVE THE TOWN OF ,EUKERBAD SEE P 3OUTHEAST FROM THE SAME CROSSROADS A PRIVATE ROAD &R PER CAR PAY AT TOUR IST OFlCE ACCESSES THE WILD 'ASTERNTAL BEWARE THAT THE ROAD IS NARROW AND ROCKY AND RUNS ON AN ALTERNATE ONE WAY SYSTEM INTO THE VALLEY BETWEEN AND MINS PAST EACH HOUR OUT OF THE VALLEY BETWEEN THE HOUR AND PAST ! PRIVATE BUS FOLLOWS THE ROAD IN GOOD WEATHER ONLY *UNEn3EPT n DAILY &R RETURN RESERVATIONS ESSENTIAL .OBODY COMES DOWN HERE APART FROM LOCAL HIKERS IN THE KNOW BUT THIS WAS FORMERLY THE MAIN ROUTE BY FOOT INTO THE 6ALAIS ABOUT AN HOUR AND A HALF S WALK FROM THE CROSSROADS INTO THE FORGOTTEN VALLEY n THE WALLS OF WHICH ARE LACED WITH DRAMATICALLY SPOUTING WATERFALLS n YOULL COME TO THE HAMLET OF 3%,$%. M WITH A COUPLE OF INNS INCLUDING COSY 'ASTHAUS 3ELDEN &ROM HERE A PATH CUTS SOUTH FOUR HOURS UP TO THE ,ÚTSCHEN 0ASS M PASSING ANOTHER INN THE 'FELALP ON THE ASCENT &ROM THE BASIC ,ÚTSCHENPASSHàTTE WWWLOETSCHENPASSCH &R INCL HALF BOARD *UNEn3EPT ON THE SUMMIT THREE MORE PATHS LEAD DOWN TO THE VILLAGES OF THE ,ÚTSCHENTAL ON THE OTHER SIDE SEE P ! LITTLE EAST OF 3ELDEN THE 'ASTERNTAL IS BLOCKED BY THE HUGE +ANDERlRN GLACIER #HECK WITH THE +ANDERSTEG TOURIST OFlCE BEFORE SETTING OUT IN THESE REMOTE AREAS
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VILLAGE A RATHER CHARMING ATTRACTIVELY LOCATED PLACE FULL OF RESTORED WEATHERED WOOD CHALETS AND AN OVERABUNDANCE OF JEWELLERY SHOPS AND FURRIERS "UT ITS HIGH ROLLER STATUS MAKES IT A VILLAGE LIKE NO OTHER IF YOU FANCY BEING SNUBBED BY THE WORLDS RICHEST PEOPLE COME HERE FOR #HRISTMAS WEEK SCENE OF A HEADY ROUND OF SPARKLING SOIRÏES AND LAVISH BANQUET STYLE DINNER PARTIES ALL BUT BARRED TO ORDINARY MORTALS 'LOSSY MAGAZINES MAY ADVERTISE THE TOWN AS SOME KIND OF WINTER WONDERLAND BUT 'STAAD IS REALLY MORE OF A PLACE TO SPEND THE ODD TEN GRAND RENTING A HILLSIDE CHALET AND SIPPING CHAMPAGNE AROUND TOWN THAN IT IS SOMEWHERE YOU CAN GET STUCK INTO ANY SERIOUS SKIING 7HERE THE AREA REALLY ENTERS INTO ITS OWN PROSAI CALLY ENOUGH IS AS A CENTRE FROM WHICH TO HIKE THE SURROUNDING 3AANENLAND DURING THE SUMMER MONTHS 'STAADS MAIN PEDESTRIAN ONLY STREET RUNNING NORTHnSOUTH THROUGH THE VILLAGE IS DUBBED 0ROMENADE n NO MORE THAN lVE MINUTES WALK END TO END &OCUS OF THE VILLAGE CENTRE IS AN OPEN AREA JUST AT THE POINT CARS ARE BARRED WHICH IN *ULY IS THE LOCATION FOR THE HIGHLY PRESTIGIOUS 3WISS /PEN TENNIS TOURNAMENT AND WHICH BECOMES AN ICE RINK ALL WINTER
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!S YOU MIGHT EXPECT THE SKYS THE LIMIT IF YOU CHOOSE TO STAY IN 'STAAD (OWEVER ITS NOT IMPOSSIBLE TO lND INEXPENSIVE ACCOMMODATION EITHER IN THE VILLAGE OR NEARBY 4EN MINUTES WALK NORTHWEST OF 3AANEN IS A COMFORTABLE RUSTIC () HOSTEL *UGENDHERBERGE IN THE OLD STYLE #HALET 2àBLIHORN WWWYOUTHHOSTELCH CLOSED .OV WITH QUALITY DORMS FROM &R 3AANEN AND NEIGHBOURING VILLAGES ALSO HAVE THE LEAST EXPENSIVE HOTELS INCLUD ING THE "AHNHOF IN 3AANENMÚSER WWWHOTELBAHNHOEmI CH KM EAST OF 3AANEN 7ITHIN 'STAAD 0OSTHOTEL 2ÚSSLI IS A COSY LOWER END CHOICE WWWPOSTHOTELROESSLICH n THE OLDEST HOTEL IN THE VILLAGE WITH RENOVATED PINE DECOR ROOMS WHILE /LDEN WWWHOTELOLDENCOM n IS A SLICKER CHOICE BUT STILL WITH PLENTY OF ATMOSPHERE 3TEPS FROM THE STATION IS THE "ERNERHOF WWW BERNERHOF GSTAADCH n A HUGE PLACE WITH GENEROUS ROOMS AND AN INDOOR POOL 4OWERING OVER THE VILLAGE AND VISIBLE FROM ALL POINTS IS THE FANTASY 0ALACE (OTEL WWWPALACECH LAUGHINGLY CALLING ITSELF A hFAMILY PENSIONv AS IT ASKS &R FOR A DOUBLE ROOM ON A WEEKEND NIGHT IN THE SKIING PEAK AND HALF THAT IN THE SUMMER n BUT THEN AGAIN WITH UNDERWATER MUSIC IN THE POOL GIANT BEDROOMS AND LAVISH DINNERS ON THE SOUTH FACING TERRACE THEY KNOW THEIR CLIENTELE WELL &BUJOHBOEESJOLJOH
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"ARELY KM WEST OF 3AANEN YOU CROSS THE BORDER FROM #ANTON "ERN INTO #ANTON 6AUD AND WITH IT THE LINGUISTIC 2ÚSTIGRABEN NOT KM FURTHER ON IS THE FRANCOPHONE RESORT OF 2OUGEMONT A CHARMING LITTLE PLACE FULL OF CHARACTER THAT IS SO FAR SUCCESSFULLY FENDING OFF THE ENCROACHMENT OF 'STAADS HIGH ROLLERS 4HIS AREA IS KNOWN AS THE 0!93 $%.(!54 OR (IGHLANDS A SLIVER OF MOUNTAIN TERRITORY ORIGINALLY OWNED BY 'RUYÒRES THEN SEIZED BY "ERN BEFORE FORMING PART OF THE NEW 6AUDOIS TERRITORY AFTER THE REVOLUTION 4HE MAIN VALLEY WITH ITS SUCCESSION OF BROAD ENCLOSED SIDE VALLEYS SET AMIDST GENTLE PEAKS CARPETED BY LUSH SUMMER PASTURE IS SEPARATED FROM 6AUDS BETTER KNOWN !LPINE RESORTS SUCH AS ,EYSIN AND ,ES $IABLERETS SEE P BY THE #OL DES -OSSES PASS M FURTHER SOUTH 7EST OF 2OUGEMONT IS THE LARGEST TOWN OF THE REGION #HÊTEAU D/EX BEST KNOWN AS A CENTRE FOR HOT AIR BALLOONING 4HE -/" NARROW GAUGE TRAIN LINE RUNS ALONG THE VALLEY mOOR FROM 'STAAD THROUGH #HÊTEAU D/EX SHORTLY AFTERWARDS WINDING ITS WAY DOWN ALONGSIDE THE $ENT DE *AMAN TO -ONTREUX SEE P ! BRANCH LINE FROM -ONTBOVON SOME KM WEST OF #HÊTEAU D/EX RUNS NORTH TO 'RUYÒRES SEE P
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2EFORMATION NEVER MADE IT ANY FURTHER INTO THE VALLEY THAN !IGLE IN NEIGH BOURING #ANTON 6AUD AND 6ALAIS REMAINS MAJORITY #ATHOLIC TO THIS DAY %VEN THE MIGHTY "ERNESE ARMY WAS STOPPED BY THE MOUNTAINS AND THE WILDNESS OF THE TERRAIN !T TIMES OF SEVERE HARDSHIP DURING THE -IDDLE !GES AND LATER HOWEVER MANY 7ALSERS HAVE VOLUNTARILY CHOSEN TO DEPART FORCED TO LEAVE THEIR HOME VILLAGES AND TRAVEL OVER THE MOUNTAINS TO SEEK A BETTER LIFE ELSEWHERE 7ALSER COMMUNITIES SURVIVE IN PLACES AS FAR APART AS !RGENTINA AND ,IECHTENSTEIN STILL NURTURING THEIR DISTINCTIVE DIALECT AND CULTURE 4HE 6ALAIS REMAINED INDEPENDENT UNTIL WHEN IT JOINED THE 3WISS #ONFEDERATION AS A NEW CANTON )TS A MARK OF THE SOCIAL CHANGES TAKING PLACE OVER RECENT YEARS THAT 'ERMAN SPEAKERS IN THE EAST OF THE CANTON ARE NOW STARTING TO WORRY ABOUT THE ENCROACHMENT OF &RENCH UP THE VALLEY WITH THE ECONOMIC
POWER AND PRESTIGE OF THE &RENCH SPEAKING LOWER VALLEY 'ERMAN SPEAKERS ARE INCREASINGLY lNDING EMPLOYMENT IN FRANCOPHONE AREAS WHILE FRANCOPHONE lRMS ARE EXPANDING THEIR BASES OF OPERATION INTO 'ERMAN SPEAKING COMMUNI TIES ,OCALS IN "RIG IN PARTICULAR SHAKE THEIR HEAD AT THE QUANTITY OF &RENCH NOW BEING HEARD IN THE TOWN BUT THERE SEEMS LITTLE THEY CAN DO ABOUT IT
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"EFORE MAINLINE TRAINS HEADING SOUTH FROM -ONTREUX ENTER 6ALAIS THEY lRST PASS THROUGH A DIVERSE AREA OF 6AUD KNOWN AS (!54 ,³-!. EXTENDING SOUTHEAST OF ,AKE 'ENEVA 4HE 2HÙNE n WHICH HERE MARKS THE CANTONAL BORDER BETWEEN 6AUD ON THE EAST BANK AND 6ALAIS ON THE WEST n MEANDERS BETWEEN THE CRAGGY $ENTS DU -IDI AND THE HEIGHTS OF ,ES $IABLERETS 4HE VALLEY mOOR AND WEST FACING FOOTHILLS MAKE UP THE ACCLAIMED WINE REGION OF #HABLAIS CENTRED ON THE lNE OLD TOWN OF !IGLE WITH ITS TURRETED CASTLE SURROUNDED BY VINEYARDS !BOVE !IGLE RISE THE M PLUS PEAKS OF THE !LPES 6AUDOISES CENTRED ON A HANDFUL OF ATTRACTIVE SMALL SCALE RESORTS SUCH AS 6ILLARS AND ,ES $IABLERETS THAT OFFER EXCELLENT SKIING AND A COSY ATMOSPHERE WELL AWAY FROM THE BUSTLE OF 6ERBIER AND #RANS -ONTANA FURTHER SOUTH 4HE ,AKE 'ENEVA 2EGIONAL 0ASS SEE BOX P IS VALID FOR TRANSPORT IN THE WHOLE OF (AUT ,ÏMAN INCLUDING ROUTES TO !IGLE ,EYSIN ,ES $IABLERETS 6ILLARS AND 3T -AURICE
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!LTHOUGH THE MAIN VALLEY HIGHWAY BYPASSES !)',% THIS ALLURING LITTLE TOWN IS WELL WORTH THE SMALL DETOUR FOR A LAZY AFTERNOON OF CASTLE EXPLORATION AND WINE TASTING !IGLE IS THE MAIN TOWN OF THE #HABLAIS WINE REGION AND ITS PRIME LAND MARK n THE FANTASTICAL #HÊTEAU D!IGLE A lFTEENTH CENTURY FOLLY WITH CORNER TOWERS AND WITCHS HAT TURRETS n IS HOME TO TWO EXCELLENT MUSEUMS DEVOTED TO WINE AND WINE PRODUCTION !IGLES OTHER CLAIM TO FAME IS lVE HUNDRED YEARS OLD IN THE TOWN WAS INTEGRATED INTO #ANTON "ERN AS THE lRST &RENCH SPEAKING TERRITORY TO JOIN THE 3WISS #ONFEDERATION 3HORTLY AFTER IN NEWLY CONVERTED "ERNESE 0ROTESTANTS SENT 'UILLAUME &AREL TO PREACH THE 2EFORMATION IN !IGLE THE lRST TIME THIS HAD EVER BEEN DONE IN A FRANCOPHONE REGION !LONG WITH ITS NEAR NEIGHBOUR 9VORNE !IGLE PRODUCES WHAT ARE ACCLAIMED AS THE BEST WINES OF THE REGION AND SOME OF THE BEST IN ALL 3WITZERLAND THE GRAVELLY CLAY LIKE SOIL NURTURING ESPECIALLY GOOD DUSTILY ELEGANT FRUITY WHITES h)TS DIFlCULT TO lND A BAD WHITE !IGLE v COMMENTED WINE WRITER *OHN # 3LOAN ,ES -URAILLES FROM THE "ADOUX WINERY IS ONE OF THE VERY FEW 3WISS WINES TO BE MARKETED IN .ORTH !MERICA IT AND THE #ROSEX 'RILLÏ 'RAND #RU ARE THE TWO BEST NAMES TO ASK FOR &URTHER SOUTH THE NEARBY TOWNS OF "EX AND /LLON PRODUCE THEIR OWN TANGY mOWERY WHITES 0HILOS IS PROBABLY THE BEST OF THEM
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FOR AROUND &R ,E 6IEUX 6ILLARS ON THE 2OUTE DES (ÙTELS IS A THREE STOREY RESTAURANT KNOWN FOR ITS FONDUES AND RACLETTES
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3NOOZING QUIETLY IN ITS PEACEFUL BACKWATER VALLEY ,%3 $)!",%2%43 REALLY DESERVES TO BE LEFT WELL ALONE )TS SO TRANQUIL THAT ITS ALMOST A SHAME TO MARK IT ON A MAP n INDEED LESS THAN A CENTURY AGO IT WASNT ON ANY MAPS AND IT WAS ONLY WITH THE ARRIVAL OF THE RAILWAY IN THAT OUTSIDERS NOTICED THE PLACE 4HESE DAYS ,ES $IABLERETS HAS A SMALL BUT LOYAL BAND OF GUESTS WHO RETURN EACH YEAR TO ENJOY THE VALLEYS CHARM 2EGULAR !3$ TRAINS RUN TO ,ES $IABLERETS FROM !IGLE BUSES ALSO CONNECT THE VILLAGE WITH 'STAAD VIA A STEEP ROAD WHICH WINDS OVER THE #OL DU 0ILLON M KM EAST OF ,ES $IABLERETS 4HE TINY SWITCHBACK ROAD OVER THE #OL DE LA #ROIX M KM SOUTH OF ,ES $IABLERETS LEADS TO 6ILLARS THREE BUSES A DAY *ULYn3EPT ONLY SHUTTLE BETWEEN THE TWO RESORTS 4HE STATION IS BESIDE THE RIVER ABOUT M NORTH OF THE TOURIST OFlCE *ULY !UG $ECn!PRIL DAILY AMnPM REST OF YEAR -ONn3AT AMn PM nPM 3UN AMnPM WWWDIABLERETS CH %VERY 3EPTEMBER ,ES $IABLERETS HOSTS THE )NTERNATIONAL !LPINE &ILM &ESTIVAL WWWlFADCH -OST ACCOMMODATION IS IN CHALETS BUT OF THE HOTELS THE !UBERGE DE LA 0OSTE WWWAUBERGEDELAPOSTECH A YEAR OLD INN THAT CLAIMS TO HAVE HOSTED 6ICTOR (UGO 3TRAVINSKY AND ,ENIN IN YEARS GONE BY IS PLEASANTLY RUSTIC 4OP PLACE IN TOWN IS THE LOVELY (ÙTEL DES $IABLERETS WWWHOTELDESDIABLERETSCH n 4HERE ARE TWO MOUNTAIN INNS WITH DORMS ABOVE THE VILLAGE INCLUDING THE #ABANE DES $IABLERETS &R MID *UNE TO MID 3EPT AT M OVERLOOKING THE GLACIER %ATING IS MAINLY A HOTEL OPTION WITH THE INEXPENSIVE RESTAURANTS AT THE !UBERGE DE LA 0OSTE AND (OTEL ,ES ,ILAS WORTH CHECKING OUT
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-FZTJO 4HE ROAD FROM !IGLE UP INTO THE MOUNTAINS DIVIDES AT ,E 3ÏPEY ,ES $IABLERETS IS EAST THE #OL DES -OSSES LEADING TO #HÊTEAU D/EX IS NORTH WHILE BUSES FOLLOW A TINY WINDING ROAD WEST TO THE BEAUTIFULLY LOCATED LITTLE VILLAGE OF ,%93). ONCE A HIGH ALTITUDE CENTRE FOR THE TREATMENT OF RESPIRATORY DISEASES BUT NOW METAMORPHOSED INTO A POPULAR AND WELL MAINTAINED !LPINE RESORT &OR ACCOMMODATION THE WARMEST WELCOME CAN BE FOUND AT THE EXCELLENT 3" HOSTEL (IKING 3HEEP IN THE 6ILLA ,A *OUX WWWHIKINGSHEEP COM WHICH HAS SOME TWIN ROOMS AND SPACE IN GOOD DORMS &R 3ATELLITE 46 A LARGE COSY LOUNGE DINING ROOMS WITH LOG lRES KITCHEN USE BALCONIES WITH PERFECT VIEWS AND SWITCHED ON MULTILINGUAL STAFF ADD TO THE ATTRACTION AS DO REDUCTIONS FOR LONG STAYS 4HE BEAUTY OF THE SURROUNDINGS AND RELATIVE ISOLATION MAKE ,EYSIN A PERFECT PLACE FOR A QUIET GETAWAY 7"- "* 4
4ACKED SEAMLESSLY SOUTH OF (AUT ,ÏMAN 6!,!)3 2/-!.$ OR THE &RENCH SPEAKING PART OF 6ALAIS COMPRISES THE WESTERNMOST PORTIONS OF THE CANTON /CCUPYING THE BROAD 2HÙNE VALLEY mOOR AND THE MOST ACCESSIBLE FOOTHILLS JUST ABOVE ITS MORE POPULATED AND LIVELIER THAN THE WILDER 'ERMAN SPEAKING EAST -OUNTAIN PASSES ASIDE THE ROAD AND TRAIN LINE FROM -ONTREUX IS THE SOLE ROUTE IN AND OUT THE MOUNTAINS mANKING THE 2HÙNE ARE CUT THROUGH WITH A HAND FUL OF DEAD END VALLEYS IDEAL FOR LONG DISTANCE HIKING BUT ONLY THE HIGH PASS ROADS OVER THE 'RAND 3T "ERNARD TO !OSTA )TALY AND THE #OL DE LA &ORCLAZ TO #HAMONIX &RANCE GIVE ACCESS FROM OUTSIDE 4HESE TWO ROADS JOIN THE VALLEY AT -ARTIGNY A RATHER UNPREPOSSESSING PLACE MUCH OVERSHADOWED IN BOTH STYLE AND APPEAL BY THE CANTONAL CAPITAL 3ION AND ITS NEIGHBOUR 3IERRE 4HE VAPID RESORT TOWNS OF 6ERBIER NEAR -ARTIGNY AND #RANS -ONTANA ABOVE 3IERRE ARE TWO OF THE BEST KNOWN SKI RESORTS IN THE WORLD OFFERING THE COMBINATION OF GROOMED PISTES AND CHIC APRÒS SKI THAT 3WITZERLAND IS FAMOUS FOR
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AMnNOON nPM 3AT AMnNOON -AY *UNE 3EPT /CT ALSO 3AT nPM WWWMARTIGNYTOURISMCH 4HEYRE WELL EQUIPPED WITH INFORMATION AND MAPS FOR THE WHOLE AREA 4HERES A HANDFUL OF TOWN HOTELS MANY UNROMANTICALLY PLANTED ON THE BUSY !VENUE DU 'RAND 3T "ERNARD AS SLEEPOVER MOTELS TO CATCH THE TRAFlC HEADING FOR THE !LPINE PASSES ,EAST EXPENSIVE ARE THE SPARTAN SHARED BATH ROOMS OF THE OLD !UBERGE 0OSTE "OURG !VENUE DU 'RAND 3T "ERNARD #ITY 'ARNI 0LACE 3T -ICHEL IS MODERN BUT GENERIC 4HE BLAND &ORCLAZ 4OURING 2UE DU ,ÏMAN WWWHOTELFORCLAZTOURING CH n HAS COMFORTABLE ENSUITE ROOMS NEAR THE STATION WHEREAS THE 0OSTE 2UE DE LA 0OSTE WWWNGSCANCOMHOTELPOSTE IS IN THE HEART OF TOWN BUT COULD DO WITH A GOOD SPRING CLEAN
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-AY *UNE 3EPT /CT 4HURS nPM &RIn3UN AMnPM FREE WWWBATIAZ CH HAS A DISPLAY OF MEDIEVAL SIEGE ENGINES AND PILLORIES "ELOW IS THE SMALL #HAPELLE DE .OTRE $AME DE #OMPASSION BUILT IN THE S WITH A 2OCOCO ALTAR ADDED MORE THAN A CENTURY LATER 'POEBUJPO1JFSSF(JBOBEEB
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4HE MAIN REASON FOR COMING TO -ARTIGNY IS TO VISIT THE GALLERIES OF THE &ONDA TION 0IERRE 'IANADDA DAILY *UNEn.OV AMnPM REST OF YEAR AMnPM &R 3-0 WWWGIANADDACH WELL SIGNPOSTED ABOUT M SOUTH OF 0LACE #ENTRALE ON A PATCH OF PARKLAND OFF 2UE DU &ORUM %STABLISHED IN BY A LOCAL PHILANTHROPIST ,ÏONARD 'IANADDA AND NAMED AFTER HIS BROTHER THE COMPLEX TAKES IN SEVERAL AREAS WITHIN A SINGLE MUSEUM 6ARIOUS SPECIAL DEALS ON ADMISSION ARE AVAILABLE SUCH AS A TWENTY PERCENT DISCOUNT ON YOUR TRAIN FARE TO -ARTIGNY AND MUSEUM ENTRY IF YOU BOOK THE TWO TOGETHER AT ANY 3WISS STATION 4HE MAIN FOCUS IS THE CHANGING SERIES OF TOP mIGHT ART EXHIBITIONS STAGED IN THE MAIN GALLERY AREA RECENT MAJOR SHOWS HAVE FOCUSED ON SUCH NAMES AS #HAGALL -ODIGLIANI #ARTIER "RESSON 0ICASSO AND 6AN 'OGH 4HE GALLERY SPACE IS NOT HUGE BUT THE QUALITY OF WORKS BROUGHT IN FROM AROUND THE WORLD IS ALWAYS VERY HIGH 4HE UPPER LEVEL OF THE GALLERY IS GIVEN OVER TO THE -USÏE !RCHÏOLOGIQUE 'ALLO 2OMAIN AN INTERESTING COLLECTION OF STATUES COINS POTTERY JEWELLERY AND OTHER BITS AND BOBS GARNERED FROM DIGS AROUND -ARTIGNY 0RIME EXHIBIT WHICH SERVES AS THE &OUNDATIONS MASCOT IS AN IMPRESSIVE BRONZE HEAD OF A BULL DATING FROM THE lRST OR SECOND CENTURY !$ 4HE WHOLE BUILD ING IS CONSTRUCTED AROUND THE REMAINS OF A 'ALLO 2OMAN TEMPLE DEDICATED TO -ERCURY THE INNER SANCTUM WALLS OF WHICH HAVE BEEN LEFT INTACT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE MUSEUMS mOOR SPACE )N A BACK AREA OFF THE GALLERY IS A SMALL PERMANENT EXHIBITION IN THE 3ALLE &RANCK OF TEN MODERNIST WORKS DONATED FROM A PRIVATE COLLECTION WHICH INCLUDES 0ICASSOS .U AUX JAMBES CROISÏES PRODUCED DURING THE ARTISTS BLUE PERIOD &URTHER ALONG THE CORRIDOR THE SMELL OF MOTOR OIL AND RUBBER PRELUDE THE SUBTERRANEAN -USÏE DE L!UTO DISPLAYING FIFTY ODD VINTAGE CARS INCLUDING A -ODEL 4 &ORD AND A DASHINGLY ELEGANT ,AGONDA /UTSIDE IS ANOTHER HIGHLIGHT THE 0ARC DES 3CULPTURES AN OPEN AREA OF GREEN OVERLOOKED BY -ARTIGNYS WOODED SLOPES AND DOTTED WITH WORKS BY n AMONG MANY OTHERS n 2ODIN -OORE AND -IRØ AS WELL AS "RANCUSIS CELEBRATED ,E 'RAND #OQ A STRIKING ZIGZAG OF GLEAMING METAL AND THE #OUR #HAGALL DEVOTED TO A MONUMEN TAL MOSAIC BY THE ARTIST !LONGSIDE THE CAFÏ AT THE REAR OF THE PARK IS THE 6IEIL !RSENAL WHICH STAGES EXCELLENT SHOWS OF PHOTOGRAPHY OR MODERN ART ©5 4HE©SCULPTURE©GARDEN ©&ONDATION©0IERRE©'IANADDA
4HE MUSEUM ALSO STAGES A PRESTIGIOUS CYCLE OF CLASSICAL MUSIC CONCERTS AROUND lFTEEN A YEAR WHICH GIVE THE UNIQUE OPPORTUNITY TO SEE STELLAR WORLD CLASS ARTISTS PERFORMING AT CLOSE QUARTERS IN THE INTIMATE GALLERY SPACE #ECILIA "ARTOLI IS A REGULAR PERFORMER AS ARE THE "EAUX !RTS 4RIO AND LEGENDARY SOLOISTS SUCH AS 0INCHAS :UKERMAN 4ICKETS ROUGHLY &Rn ARE VERY LIMITED 7ITHIN A FEW HUNDRED METRES OF THE MUSEUM TO THE SOUTH BEYOND THE TRAIN TRACKS LIES -ARTIGNYS 2OMAN AMPHITHEATRE DATING FROM THE SECOND TO FOURTH CENTURIES !$ AND NOW RESTORED TO SEAT SPECTATORS )T COMES INTO ITS OWN AS THE VENUE FOR THE ANNUAL COWlGHTING CHAMPIONSHIPS IN EARLY /CTOBER SEE BOX BUT OTHERWISE ITS A QUIET GRASSY CORNER FROM WHICH TO SURVEY THE WOODED SLOPES ALL AROUND
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0LACE #ENTRALE IS WHERE IT HAPPENS IN -ARTIGNY n THOUGH hITv COVERS LITTLE MORE THAN SITTING AROUND UNDER THE PLANE TREES AT PLEASANT TERRACE CAFÏS EATING PLATES OF CHIPS AND DRINKING BEER 2ANGED ALONG ONE SIDE ARE BUSTLING #AFÏ DE LA 0LACE SPECIALIZING IN FONDUES AND RACLETTES &Rn AND ADJACENT "AROCK AND ,ES 0LATANES ALL OF WHICH GET CRAMMED ON SUMMER EVENINGS CHURNING OUT MEALS BEERS AND COFFEES $OWN IN THE "OURG THE !UBERGE 0OSTE "OURG SEE h!CCOMMODATIONv OFFERS INEXPENSIVE 6ALAISIAN DISHES &R OR SO WHILE THE (ÙTEL DES 4ROIS #OURONNES 0LACE DU "OURG CLOSED 3UN -ON IS AN OLD TRADITIONAL STYLE AUBERGE FROM NO LONGER OFFERING LODGING BUT STILL SERVING UP QUALITY &RENCH MENUS AT &R AND UP n GO FOR THE HOUSE SPECIALITY OF KIDNEYS IN GARLIC .EAR 0LACE #ENTRALE ,E ,ION D/R !VENUE DU 'RAND 3T "ERNARD CLOSED 3UN -ON MAKES ITS OWN FRESH PASTA AND HAS PIZZAS AND OTHER )TALIAN FAVOURITES SUCH AS OSSO BUCCO 4HE 'AULT -ILLAU RECOMMENDED +WONG -ING 0LACE DE 2OME CLOSED *UNE SERVES UP PERFECT #HINESE DISHES IN A CALM DARKWOOD INTERIOR OR AL FRESCO BESIDE THE INTERIOR GARDEN OR TAKEAWAY MENUS CAN BE &R AT LUNCH DOUBLE THAT IN THE EVENING 2ESERVE AHEAD TO DINE MEDIEVAL STYLE AT THE #HÊTEAU DE LA "ATIAZ SEE ABOVE VARIOUS MENUS OF LOCAL FARE INCLUDING VEGGIE OPTIONS ARE AROUND &Rn !LONG !VENUE DE LA 'ARE THE BAR IN THE #ASINO CINEMA OPEN DAILY UNTIL MIDNIGHT IS A FAIRLY CIVILIZED CHOICE !LTERNATIVELY YOU COULD HEAD DOWN TO ,ES !RCADES IN A VAULTED CELLAR AT 2UE DU "OURG ONE OF A HANDFUL OF SOCIABLE TAVERNS IN THE AREA
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3OUTH OF -ARTIGNY THE 0AYS DU 3T "ERNARD WWWSAINT BERNARDCH COMPRISES WILD VALLEYS HEMMED IN BY THE GIANT 0ENNINE !LPS MARKING THE )TAL IAN BORDER "RANCH LINE TRAINS FROM -ARTIGNY STATION FOLLOW THE $RANSE VALLEY AND DIVIDE ONE BRANCH SERVES ,E #HÊBLE TUCKED BENEATH THE SKI RESORT OF 6ERBIER SEE P WHILE THE OTHER IS THE GATEWAY TO THE 6AL D%NTREMONT LEAD ING SOUTH TO THE 'RAND 3T "ERNARD 0ASS BEYOND WHICH IS )TALY )F YOU PLAN TO EXPLORE IN THE AREA PICK UP FROM THE -ARTIGNY TOURIST OFlCE THE EXCELLENT MAP AND %NGLISH GUIDEBOOK !U 0AYS DU 'RAND 3T "ERNARD &R 4RAINS AND THE ROAD FROM -ARTIGNY DIVIDE AT 3%-"2!.#(%2 LONG A STAGING POST ON THE ROUTE UP TO THE PASS )TS AN ATTRACTIVE MEDIEVAL VILLAGE WITH A "AROQUE CHURCH AND STREET FOUNTAINS mOWING WITH WATER THAT IS UNUSUALLY HIGH IN NATURAL mUORIDE !BOUT KM SOUTH n AND UP n IS /23)¶2%3 M WHERE
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TRAINS TERMINATE AND BUSES TAKE OVER /RSIÒRES IS NOTABLE FOR THE BEAUTIFUL 'OTHIC BELL TOWER ALONGSIDE ITS RELATIVELY MODERN CHURCH FEATURING DOUBLE AND TRIPLE ARCHED WINDOWS AND GROTESQUE GARGOYLES ! BRANCH ROAD FROM HERE PENETRATES THE LONESOME 6AL &ERRET EXTENDING FOR SOME KM BETWEEN TOWERING PEAKS
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AND ACCLAIMED AS AN EXCELLENT BIRDWATCHING AREA AS ONE VISITOR WROTE IN hTHERE ARE FEW VALLEYS IN THE !LPS SO FEARSOMELY WILDv /N A ZIGZAGGING ROAD ABOVE /RSIÒRES LIES THE LITTLE RESORT OF #(!-0%8 M RANGED AROUND ITS LAKELET AND WELL KNOWN AS A MOUNTAINEERING CENTRE AND TRAILHEAD INCLUDING FOR THE FAMOUS #IRCUIT OF -ONT "LANC 4WO HOTELS STAND OUT BOTH COUNTRY INNS IN IDYLLIC WOODLAND SETTINGS DOWN TO EARTH "ELVÏDÒRE WWWLE BELVEDERECH n IS RENOWNED FOR ITS ORGANIC HOME PRODUCED CUISINE WHILE !U 6IEUX #HAMPEX WWW CHAMPEX IMMOBILIERCOM n IS MORE UPMARKET WITH A GOURMET EDGE AND SEVERAL COMFORTABLE APARTMENTS 4HE MAIN ROAD FROM /RSIÒRES CONTINUES TO CLIMB AMIDST INCREASINGLY SPECTACU LAR SCENERY UP TO THE VILLAGE OF "OURG 3T 0IERRE M RESIDENCE FROM THE EIGHTH CENTURY OF THE GUARDIANS OF THE PASS THE OLD CHURCH REBUILT IN HAS AT ITS NORTHEASTERN CORNER A 2OMAN MILESTONE DATING FROM ABOUT !$ !BOVE THE VILLAGE THE MAIN ROAD IS ROOFED OVER TO LIMIT PROBLEMS WITH DRIVING SNOW IN WINTER 3HORTLY AFTERWARDS TRAFlC SHOOTS INTO THE 'RAND 3T "ERNARD TUNNEL EMERGING KM ON IN )TALY BUT A TINY WINDING ROAD TO ONE SIDE CONTINUES UP THE MOUNTAINSIDE PAST A SKI LIFT SERVING THE SMALL 3UPER 3T "ERNARD PEAK PART OF THE &OUR 6ALLEYS SKI AREA n SEE P n WITH A COUPLE OF RED RUNS AND A WILD AND LONESOME BLACK BEFORE IT EVENTUALLY ARRIVES AT THE DRAMATIC 'RAND 3T "ERNARD 0ASS ITSELF AT M $PMEV(SBOE4U#FSOBSE
4HE #OL DU 'RAND 3T "ERNARD IS THE OLDEST !LPINE PASS ROUTE SEE BOX PROTECTED FOR ALMOST A MILLENNIUM BY MONKS INHABITING THE HOSPICE ON TOP 4HE VIEWS ARENT OUTSTANDING AND THE SOUVENIR STALLS ARE AN EYESORE BUT THE SENSE OF HISTORY IS WHAT DRAWS YOU IN FOR CENTURIES THIS WAS THE ONLY ROAD BETWEEN NORTHERN %UROPE AND SOUTHERN %UROPE FOR HUNDREDS OF MILES ON EITHER mANK AND COUNTLESS TRAVELLERS HAVE ARRIVED TO THE SAME VIEW OF THE LITTLE SUMMIT LAKE BACKED BY THE SAME MOUNTAIN PANORAMA 4HE INTERESTING MUSEUM DAILY *ULY !UG AMnPM *UNE 3EPT AMnNOON nPM &R DOCUMENTS THE HISTORY OF THE PASS AND INCLUDES SEVERAL QUAKING ACCOUNTS OF FATAL OR NEAR FATAL CROSSINGS 4HE TWO BUILDINGS WHICH MAKE UP THE HOSPICE EXPOSED TO WINTER STORMS WHICH HAVE BEEN KNOWN TO BRING M OF SNOW AND TEMPERATURES OF
ª# DATE FROM AND THE OLDER ONE CONTAINS A "AROQUE CHURCH )F YOU WALK DOWN FROM THE HOSPICE THE )TALIAN FRONTIER GUARDS WILL LET YOU CROSS THE INTERNATIONAL BORDER TO EXPLORE THE ROCKY AREA BEHIND THE CUSTOMS POST AND )TALIAN HOSPICE AROUND THE STATUE OF 3T "ERNARD ATOP ITS ROUND PILLAR YOULL lND TRACES OF THE 2OMAN ROAD CUT INTO THE BEDROCK )N SUMMER ITS POSSIBLE TO STAY IN THE HOSPICE WWW GSBERNARDCH WHICH IS STILL A FUNCTIONING RELIGIOUS COMMUNITY EITHER IN PLAIN COSY ROOMS OR DORMS &R THE COOKING IS SUITABLY HEARTY AND THE ATMOSPHERE JOVIAL $URING THE WINTER MONTHS .OVn*UNE AND OVER %ASTER YOU CAN ARRANGE AN INDIVIDUAL RETREAT TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE SOLITUDE FOR PERSONAL REmECTION
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3IONS TRAIN STATION IS AT THE SOUTHERN END OF THE LONG STRAIGHT !VENUE DE LA 'ARE WITH THE POSTBUS STATION TO ONE SIDE 3OME M NORTH ALONG !VENUE DE LA 'ARE IS THE CONCRETE 0LACE DE LA 0LANTA ON WHICH STANDS THE WELL EQUIPPED TOURIST OFlCE *ULY !UG -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM REST OF YEAR -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM 3AT AMnNOON WWW SIONTOURISMCH 4HEY OFFER A GOOD TWO HOUR WALKING TOUR OF THE TOWN *ULY !UG 4UES 4HURS AM &R WINE TASTING INCLUDED 3IONS TINY AIRPORT WWWSIONAIRPORTCH IS KM WEST OF THE CENTRE !SIDE FROM THE ANNUAL COWlGHTING CHAMPIONSHIP HELD IN -AY AT NEARBY !PROZ SEE P 3ION PLAYS HOST TO THE PRESTIGIOUS &ESTIVAL )NTERNATIONAL DE -USIQUE WWWSION FESTIVALCH WHICH RUNS FROM *ULY TO 3EPTEMBER AT A NUMBER OF VENUES AROUND 6ALAIS 2UNNING CONCURRENTLY IN *ULY AND !UGUST ARE THE !CADÏMIE DE -USIQUE DE 3ION WWWAMSIONCH A CYCLE OF MASTERCLASSES GIVEN BY INTERNATIONAL SOLOISTS AND THE &ESTIVAL )NTERNATIONAL DE L/RGUE !NCIEN A SEASON OF ANCIENT MUSIC CENTRED ON THE WORLDS OLDEST ORGAN STILL PLAYABLE IN THE #HÊTEAU DE 6ALÒRE "DDPNNPEBUJPO
/F 3IONS HOTELS THE %LITE !VENUE DU -IDI WWW HOTELELITE SIONCH n DOESNT LOOK LIKE MUCH BUT ITS BEEN TASTEFULLY RENO VATED INSIDE AND IS A GOOD CHOICE ,A #HANNE 2UE 0ORTE .EUVE IS A QUIET PLACE IN THE /LD 4OWN WITH A CHOICE OF ENSUITE OR SHARED BATH ROOMS WHILE THE CINDER BLOCK $U 2HÙNE 2UE DU 3CEX WWWBESTWESTERNCH A DElNITE STEP UP IN QUALITY AND SERVICE 3IONS BEST IS THE hGARNIv %UROPA A PLEASANT BUSINESS HOTEL OUT TOWARDS THE AIRlELD AT 2UE DE L%NVOI WWWWZGHOTELSCH 4HE GOOD () HOSTEL !UBERGE DE *EUNESSE 2UE DE L)NDUSTRIE WWWYOUTHHOSTELCH CLOSED $EC *AN IS JUST BEHIND THE STATION n MODERN CLEAN AND WELL RUN WITH DORMS FROM &R 4HE NEAREST AND BEST CAMPSITE IS THE lVE STAR $ES )LES KM WEST
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3IONS /LD 4OWN IS INTERESTING A SLOW WANDER THROUGH THE COBBLED ALLEYS WITH THEIR OLD INNS AND SIXTEENTH CENTURY SHUTTERED TOWN HOUSES CAN lLL AN ATMOSPHERIC AFTERNOON *UST NORTHEAST OF 0LACE DE LA 0LANTA IS THE SMALL ³GLISE 3T 4HÏODULE DATING FROM THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY AND WITH SOME lNE VAULTING IN THE CHOIR *UST BESIDE IT IS THE #ATHÏDRALE .OTRE $AME DU 'LARIER /UR ,ADY OF THE 'RAVEL n REFERRING TO THE GROUND ON WHICH THE CATHEDRAL WAS BUILT 4HE MAIN BUILDING IS lFTEENTH CENTURY WITH ELEMENTS OF EARLIER 2OMANESQUE AND 'OTHIC STRUCTURES INCORPORATED WITHIN IT INCLUDING A lNE BELFRY )TS MOST NOTICEABLE FEATURE THOUGH IS THE BELLS WHICH STRIKE EVERY QUARTER HOUR IN A
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NEAR EXACT COPY OF THE SOUND OF "IG "EN IN ,ONDON ALTHOUGH THE BASS BELLS SLIGHTLY HIGHER PITCH GIVES THE ENSEMBLE AN INESCAPABLY MOURNFUL TONE 3OME M TO THE SOUTH IS 2UE 3UPERSAXO WITH THE -AISON 3UPERSAXO -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM FREE TUCKED INTO AN ALLEY OFF THE STREET 4HIS LAVISH RESI DENCE WAS BUILT IN BY THE LOCAL GOVERNOR 'EORGES 3UPERSAXO TO SHOW THE TOWNS BISHOP -ATTHIAS 3CHINNER WHO WAS BOSS CLIMB THE 'OTHIC STAIRCASE INSIDE TO A HALL ON THE UPPER mOOR WITH A MAGNIlCENT CARVED AND PAINTED CEIL ING 4WO MINUTES NORTH ON 2UE DE LA 4OUR BRINGS YOU TO THE WITCHS HAT 4OUR DES 3ORCIERS PART OF THE TOWNS MEDIEVAL FORTIlCATIONS "ESIDE THE IMPOSING (ÙTEL DE 6ILLE ON 2UE DU 'RAND 0ONT VISITABLE ONLY ON THE TOURIST OFlCES WALKING TOUR LANES AND BACK ALLEYS CUT EAST TO 2UE DES #HÊTEAUX WHICH CLIMBS STEEPLY TOWARDS THE TWIN HILLS OF 4OURBILLON AND 6ALÒRE "EFORE YOU GET THERE THOUGH AFTER M YOULL PASS ON THE LEFT THE MODEST -USÏE #ANTONAL DES "EAUX !RTS 0LACE DE LA -AJORIE 4UESn3UN nPM /CTn-AY CLOSES PM &R 3-0 FREE ON ST 3UN OF MONTH IN AN ATTRACTIVE lFTEENTH CENTURY HOUSE 4HERE ARE FEW OUTSTANDING WORKS ALTHOUGH THE SECTION ON 6ALAISIAN IDENTITY HOLDS SOME INTERESTING PIECES /PPOSITE IS THE -USÏE #ANTONAL D!RCHÏOLOGIE SAME HOURS &R 3-0 FREE ON ST 3UN OF MONTH WITH AN IMPRESSIVE COLLECTION OF MAINLY 2OMAN BITS AND PIECES AS WELL AS "RONZE !GE STELES AND A DISPLAY OF PREHISTORIC DOLMENS 7BMÒSFBOE5PVSCJMMPO
2UE DES #HÊTEAUX CLIMBS TO A PARKING AREA IN THE GROOVE BETWEEN THE TWIN CASTLES OF 3ION &ROM HERE PATHS DIVIDE UP THE DRY SCRUBBY HILLSIDES n LEFT NORTH TO 4OURBILLON RIGHT SOUTH TO 6ALÒRE #HÊTEAU DE 6ALÒRE IS THE MORE INTERESTING OF THE TWO AND THE MORE COMPLETE 4HE HIKE UP BRINGS YOU PAST THE TINY #HAPELLE DE 4OUS LES 3AINTS DATING FROM BUT UNFORTUNATELY KEPT LOCKED AND MASSIVE 2OMAN FOUNDATION WALLS TO THE CASTLE CHURCH !S IT STANDS THE CHÊTEAU DATES FROM THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY BUT ELEMENTS SURVIVE OF EARLIER BUILDINGS AND THE WHOLE THING MAY WELL STAND ON THE RUINS OF A 2OMAN TEMPLE ! CLIMB UP RICKETY STAIRS BRINGS YOU INTO THE CHURCH INTERIOR -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM /CTn-AY 4UESn3UN ONLY CLOSES PM &R WHERE THE MOST NOTABLE FEATURE HIGH ON THE BACK WALL IS THE OLDEST PLAYABLE ORGAN IN THE WORLD DATING FROM 4HE #HÊTEAU DE 4OURBILLON ON THE OPPOSITE HILL DATES FROM BUT WAS RUINED BY lRE IN AND TODAY ASIDE FROM THE EXTERNAL WALLS LITTLE IS LEFT 4HESE DAYS ITS OPEN FOR SCRAMBLINGS MID -ARCH TO MID .OV 4UESn3UN AMnPM FREE AND YIELDS EXCELLENT VIEWS ALONG THE VALLEY AND OVER THE TOWN
&BUJOHBOEESJOLJOH 4HERE ARE A SURPRISING NUMBER OF GOOD PLACES TO EAT AND DRINK FOR SUCH A SMALL CITY AS 3ION 4HE BASICS ARE TAKEN CARE OF AT VARIOUS SELF SERVICE RESTAU RANTS INCLUDING A -ANORA WITHIN THE 0LACETTE DEPARTMENT STORE ON !VENUE DU -IDI AND A HUGE -IGROS SUPERMARKET AND DINER WEST OF THE STATION ON !VENUE DE &RANCE 2UE DU 'RAND 0ONT IN THE /LD 4OWN IS LINED WITH ATTRACTIVE PLEASANT LITTLE CORNERS TO SAMPLE SOMETHING NICE 'ROTTO DE LA &ONTAINE AT NO CLOSED 4UES 7ED IS A 4ICINESE STYLE INN SERVING FRESH PASTAS PIZZAS AND 4ICINESE STEWS AND RISOTTOS MENUS &R ,A #ROIX &ÏDÏRALE AT NO CLOSED -ON SPECIALIZES IN MOUTHWATERING lSH DISHES WHILE THE "RASSERIE DU 'RAND 0ONT AT NO CLOSED 3UN IS A SOLID DOWN TO EARTH PLACE TO HAVE A GOOD SQUARE MEAL AND A CARAFE OF LOCAL WINE
4O THE EAST AND WELL OUT OF THE HUBBUB ON STEEP COBBLED 2UE DES #HÊTEAUX THERE ARE TWO EXCELLENT PLACES VERY CLOSE TO EACH OTHER ,%NCLOS DE 6ALÒRE AT NO /CTn!PRIL CLOSED 3UN -ON WWWENCLOSDEVALERE CH HAS A BIG SHADED TERRACE ON WHICH TO ENJOY ITS CLASSIC GOURMET CUISINE MENUS &R WHILE JUST ABOUT NEXT DOOR IS THE #AVE DE 4OUS 6ENTS -AY *UNE CLOSED -ON 4UES WWWCAVE TOUS VENTSCH AN ATMOS PHERIC VAULTED CELLAR IN A THIRTEENTH CENTURY BUILDING THAT OPENS IN THE EVENINGS ONLY FOR QUALITY RACLETTES FONDUES INCLUDING AN ALCOHOLIC hFONDUE "ACCHUSv AND SAMPLING OF LOCAL WINES MENUS ARE &R
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4HE HILLS SOUTH OF 3ION ARE PIERCED BY TWO LONG VALLEYS WHICH ARE WORTH A DETOUR TO EXPLORE THE HINTERLANDS OF THE 6ALAIS 4O THE SOUTHWEST A MINOR ROAD WINDS INTO THE 6AL D(ÏRÏMENCE CULMINATING IN THE GIANT "ARRAGE DE LA 'RANDE $IXENCE THE LARGEST AND ONE OF THE HIGHEST ALTITUDE DAMS IN THE WORLD /F MORE INTEREST THOUGH IS THE VALLEY BRANCHING SOUTHEAST FROM 3ION 4HIS IS THE 6!, $(³2%.3 A WORLD APART FROM THE MAIN VALLEY DOTTED WITH MOUNTAIN FARMS AND HIGH ALTITUDE HAMLETS AND GIVING FASCINATING GLIMPSES OF TRADITIONAL RURAL LIFE %VEN PEOPLE FROM 3ION CAN BARELY UNDERSTAND THE THICK VALLEY PATOIS WHICH RINGS WITH ODD GUTTURAL SOUNDS AND STRIKES CITY FOLK AS BEING A LITTLE LIKE !RABIC 5NSUBSTANTIATED SUPPOSITION BRINGS OUT THE IDEA THAT THE GENERALLY DARK SKINNED DARK EYED PEOPLE OF THE 6AL D(ÏRENS MAY BE DESCENDED FROM THE CONQUERING 3ARACEN ARMIES WHO SWEPT THROUGH THE AREA AFTER THE "ATTLE OF 0OITIERS IN (AVING PLANTED THAT IDEA 3ÏDUNOIS WILL THEN TELL YOU ABOUT THE PEOPLE OF )SÏRABLES A TOWN WEST OF 3ION WHO HAVE BEEN CALLED ,ES "EDJUIS FOR AS LONG AS ANYONE CAN REMEMBER n A NICKNAME REMARKABLY CLOSE TO h"EDOUINv 4HE !LLALINHORN PEAK NEAR 3AAS &EE IS ANOTHER CLUE ITS NAME APPARENTLY DERIVED FROM h!LLAHv /NE OF THE SIGHTS OF THE VALLEY CAN BE FOUND NEAR THE VILLAGE OF %USEIGNE WHERE THE ROAD PASSES BENEATH THE 0YRAMIDES D%USEIGNE A BIZARRE GEOLOGI CAL OUTCROP OF GLACIAL MORAINES 7HEREAS EROSION mATTENED THE AREA ALL AROUND THESE STONE JAGS WERE PROTECTED FROM SMOOTHING BY HARD ROCK CAPS 4ODAY THEYRE HARD TO BELIEVE n A WALL OF UNNATURALLY BARE AND POINTED STALAGMITES IN THE OPEN WOODED VALLEY EACH CRAG CROWNED BY A DARK BOULDER BALANCED ON A NEEDLE POINT ! STALL AT THE BASE LETS YOU STOP TO GAWP AND THEN BUY A SOUVENIR POSTCARD 3OME KM SOUTH OF %USEIGNE IS THE VILLAGE OF %VOLÒNE A QUAINT VILLAGE NOW BYPASSED BY THE MAIN ROAD WHICH HAS PRESERVED ALONG ITS MAIN STREET TRADITIONAL WOODEN HOUSES AND AN AIR OF RURAL TRANQUILLITY 4HE LOCALS HAVE CHEER FULLY CAPITALIZED ON THIS BY WEARING TRADITIONAL DRESS n ONLY PARTLY IT SEEMS IN A SELF CONSCIOUS BID FOR TOURIST APPEAL ! HANDFUL OF CAFÏS AND SIMPLE INNS CATER TO HIKERS AND DAY TRIPPERS
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3OUTH OF THE HAMLET OF ,ES (AUDÒRES BEYOND %VOLÒNE YOU BEGIN TO PENETRATE THE WILD COUNTRYSIDE /NE ROAD BRANCHES EAST OVER THE CREST TO &ERPÒCLE WHILE ANOTHER CLIMBS WEST UP AND OVER INTO THE TRANQUIL HIDDEN 6AL D!ROLLA TERMINATING SOME KM SOUTH AFTER A SERIES OF NERVE RACKING TUNNELS AT THE PRISTINE HAMLET OF !2/,,! M 4HIS TINY OUTDOORSY PLACE IS ONE OF THE STOPS ON THE 7ALKERS (AUTE 2OUTE BETWEEN #HAMONIX AND :ERMATT SEE P AND OFFERS A WEALTH OF HALF AND FULL DAY HIKES ALL AROUND INCLUDING A TESTING ONE UP TO THE #OL DE 2IEDMATTEN M THREE HOURS AWAY 4HERES A HANDFUL OF BLUE AND RED SKI PISTES SERVED BY LIFTS RISING FROM THE VILLAGE PASSES ARE &R FOR ONESIX DAYS &OUR OR lVE HOTELS OFFER QUALITY RETREATS INCLUDING THE EXCELLENT (ÙTEL DU 0IGNE WWWHOTELDUPIGNECH ENTIRELY RENOVATED INSIDE IN AN ATTRACTIVELY SLEEK CONTEMPORARY STYLE (ALF A DOZEN PLACES OFFER DORMS THE TOURIST OFlCE WWWAROLLACOM HAS INFORMATION !MAZINGLY DURING *ANUARY SKI PASSES ARE HALF PRICE AND ALL HOTELS SLASH THEIR RATES BY A THIRD OR MORE GIVING SEVEN NIGHTS AMIDST THE DEEP SNOW FOR JUST &R HALF BOARD IN A DOUBLE ROOM AT (ÙTEL DU 0IGNE AS LITTLE AS &R IN A PENSION
/N THE ROAD FROM 3ION EAST TO 3IERRE IS THE SMALL VILLAGE OF 34 ,³/.!2$ WITH AS ITS SOLE DRAW ONE OF THE LARGEST UNDERGROUND LAKES IN %UROPE -ARCHn /CT DAILY AMnPM &R 2EGULAR BUSES DROP OFF EITHER IN THE VILLAGE OR AT THE CAR PARK BENEATH THE TICKET OFlCE WHICH CAN GET CROWDED WITH DAY TRIP PING FAMILIES 4OURS OF THE LAKE BY LARGE ROWING BOATS WITH EVERYONE CROWDED IN SIDE BY SIDE TAKE ABOUT FORTY MINUTES n AND ITS COLD DOWN THERE SO BRING A JUMPER 4HE CAVE ENTRANCE IS JUST A GAP IN THE MOUNTAINSIDE BUT AS YOU LAUNCH OFF ONTO THE INKY WATER THE ILLUMINATED OTHER WORLDLY CAVERN STRETCHING OUT AHEAD OF YOU IS VERY IMPRESSIVE 4HE GUIDES WHO DO THE ROWING HAVE A NICE LINE IN MULTILINGUAL PATTER REGALING YOU ON THE VOYAGE WITH ALL KINDS OF STORIES AND DETAILS ABOUT THE LAKE AND ITS GEOLOGY
4JFSSF (ARDLY ANY FOREIGNERS COME TO 3)%22% 3IDERS IN 'ERMAN UNLESS THEYRE CATCHING THE FUNICULAR UP TO THE SKI RESORTS OF #RANS AND -ONTANA ON THE HILLSIDE ABOVE 7HICH IS ALL TO THE GOOD BECAUSE IT LEAVES THIS IDYLLIC LITTLE VALLEY mOOR TOWN QUIET PERFECT FOR A DAY OR TWO OF STROLLING AND WINE TASTING IN THE VINE YARDS ALL AROUND 4HE 'ERMAN POET 2AINER -ARIA 2ILKE SPENT HIS LAST SIX YEARS IN 3IERRE WHERE HE WROTE THE CELEBRATED 3ONNETS TO /RPHEUS HE SUFFERED FROM LEUKAEMIA AND DIED IN AFTER PRICKING HIS lNGER ON A ROSE THORN 3IERRE LIES ALMOST EXACTLY ON THE &RENCHn'ERMAN LANGUAGE BORDER WHICH IS MARKED BY THE TINY 2ASPILLE STREAM A COUPLE OF KILOMETRES EAST OF THE TOWN 4HE ROAD EAST FROM 3IERRE TO THE SLEEPY VILLAGE OF 3ALGESCH 3ALQUENEN IN &RENCH BEGINS AS THE 2UE DE LA 'EMMI AND ENDS lVE MINUTES LATER AS THE 'EMMISTRASSE 3IERRE SITS ALONGSIDE THE 2HÙNE WHILE IN 3ALGESCH THE SAME RIVER IS DUBBED THE 2OTTEN 7INE IS WHAT FUELS BOTH COMMUNITIES AND THERE ARE PLENTY OF TRAILS THROUGH AND BETWEEN THE VINEYARDS WITH EQUALLY NUMEROUS OPPORTUNITIES TO STOP AND SAMPLE A GLASS OR TWO 3IERRE IS THE DRIEST TOWN IN 3WITZERLAND AND GETS AN AVERAGE OF ALMOST SEVEN AND A HALF HOURS OF SUNSHINE DAILY FROM -AY
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BE HAPPY TO GIVE YOU A RUNDOWN IN %NGLISH ON WHATS WHAT "USES EVERY HR CAN RUN YOU BACK TO 3IERRE !N INTERESTING DETOUR FROM THE 7INE 0ATH IS TO THE SMALL -USÏE #HARLES #LOS /LSOMMER SIGNPOSTED IN 6EYRAS *ULYn3EPT 7EDn3UN nPM /CTn*UNE 3AT 3UN nPM &R WWWMUSEE OLSOMMERCH /LSOMMER BORN IN .EUCHÊTEL IN STUDIED IN -UNICH AT THE SAME TIME AS +LEE AND +ANDINSKY BUT UNLIKE THEM BECAME lXATED WITH A +LIMT LIKE STYLE ROOTED IN SYMBOLISM (E LIVED IN 6EYRAS FROM UNTIL HIS DEATH IN PAINTING MOODY SCENES OF WOMEN PRAYING IN THE WILDERNESS OR SURROUNDED BY PSYCHEDELIC PATTERNS ! lFTEEN MINUTE WALK EAST OF 3IERRE LIE HALF A DOZEN LOW ROUNDED HILLS THE RESULT OF ALLUVIAL DEPOSITS AND AN ANCIENT LANDSLIDE 4HE WHOLE UNDULATING AREA IS ONE OF THE LAST REMAINING EXAMPLES OF UNDEVELOPED VALLEY mOOR ECOLOGY IN THE COUNTRY )TS CARPETED BY A VAST PRISTINE PINE FOREST THE &ORÐT DE &INGES0FYN WALD BOTH TERMS DERIVED FROM THE ,ATIN lNES OR BORDER THIS WAS THE ANCIENT LIMIT OF 2OMAN CONTROL WWWPFYN lNGESCH AND IS FRINGED BY SWAMPS AND MARSHLAND ON THE 2HÙNE BANKS 0ROTECTED AND MAINTAINED BUT NOT DEVELOPED ITS PERFECT FOR LONG SHADY HIKES AND PEACEFUL PICNICS
1SBDUJDBMJUJFT 3IERRES STATION HOUSES THE TOURIST OFlCE MID *ULY TO MID 3EPT -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM REST OF YEAR -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM $ECn!PRIL ALSO 3AT nPM WWWSIERRE ANNIVIERSCH 4HE LONGEST FUNICULAR IN 3WITZERLAND KM HEADS UP TO -ONTANA FROM THE 3-# STATION TWO MINUTES WALK AWAY LEFT ONTO THE MAIN !VENUE 'ÏNÏRAL 'UISAN OUTSIDE THE STATION /F THE HOTELS ,E 4ERMINUS OPPOSITE THE STATION WWW HOTEL TERMINUSCH n HAS BEEN ENTIRELY RENOVATED IN A CHIC MODERN STYLE AND HAS AN EXCELLENT RESTAURANT AND BISTRO ATTACHED 4HE RESTAURANT IN THE #HÊTEAU DE 6ILLA SEE ABOVE IS ONE OF THE MORE PRESTIGIOUS PLACES TO SAMPLE 6ALAISIAN SPECIALITIES AND ITS OENOTHEQUE DAILY AMnPM
nPM STOCKS MORE THAN OF THE REGIONS WINES )F YOU HEAD BEHIND THE STATION AND DOWN TO THE SMALL ,AC DE 'ÏRONDE ON THE WAY YOULL PASS A HANDFUL OF BASIC AUBERGES INCLUDING THE 0ROMENADE WWW HOTELPROMENADECH WITH ROOMS ENSUITE AND NOT /N THE LAKE ITSELF IS THE PLEASANT ,A 'ROTTE A TERRACE RESTAURANT KNOWN ONLY TO THE LOCALS SERVING VERY GOOD lSH MENUS &R WITH A HANDFUL OF COMFORTABLE CHARACTERFUL ROOMS UPSTAIRS n
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#2!.3 -/.4!.! IS ANOTHER OF 3WITZERLANDS BIG WORLD FAMOUS SKI RESORTS OCCUPYING WHAT IS CLAIMED TO BE THE SUNNIEST PLATEAU IN THE !LPS FACING SOUTH OVER THE 2HÙNE VALLEY WITH A SPECTACULAR PANORAMA OF PEAKS YAWNING BEYOND !LONG WITH 6ERBIER AND 3T -ORITZ ITS ALSO ONE OF THE GLITZIEST 2OGER -OORE IS A LONG TIME RESIDENT WITH WHAT THE TOURIST OFlCE LIKES TO CALL THE lNEST SHOPPING IN THE !LPS 4HE RESORT ACTUALLY COMPRISES THREE VILLAGES #RANS SUR 3IERRE PRONOUNCED CRAWH -ONTANA AND OUT ON A LIMB !MINONA THE AGGLOMERATION SPRAWLS FOR MORE THAN KM BETWEEN #RANS TO THE WEST AND -ONTANA TO THE EAST WITH NOTHING TO MARK THE SHIFT FROM ONE TO ANOTHER 4HERES NO RESTRICTION ON CARS AT ALL AND TRAFlC IS PERMANENTLY HEAVY IN HIGH SEASON VILLAGE TO VILLAGE GRIDLOCK IS NOT UNKNOWN 4HE SKIING RATHER UNFAIRLY DUBBED hIRRETRIEVABLY INTERMEDI ATEv BY SOME SPORTS WRITERS TAKES SECOND PLACE TO THE ROUND OF WINING AND DINING EMBARKED UPON BY AlCIONADOS OF #RANS -ONTANAS AFmUENT SOCIAL LIFE n ALTHOUGH THE RESORT DOES HAVE THE ADVANTAGE OF ACCESS TO YEAR ROUND SKIING ON THE 0LAINE -ORTE GLACIER WAY UP ABOVE M 3KIING ASIDE THE PLACE IS BEST KNOWN FOR HOSTING THE %UROPEAN -ASTERS GOLF TOURNAMENT EVERY 3EPTEMBER WWWOMEGAEUROPEANMASTERSCOM SECOND ONLY TO THE "RITISH /PEN FOR PRESTIGE AND TOP NAMES #RANSS SCENIC COURSE n hTHE MOST SPECTACULAR TOURNAMENT SITE IN THE WORLDv ACCORDING TO 'REG .ORMAN n WAS REDESIGNED BY 3EVE "ALLESTEROS AND NOW BOASTS lENDISHLY COMPLEX UPTURNED SAUCER GREENS WHICH LED ONE FRUSTRATED PLAYER TO DESCRIBE PLAYING A ROUND AS hHAVING EIGHTEEN TEETH PULLED ONE BY ONEv
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! HOST OF BASIC HOTELS OFFER INEXPENSIVE ROOMS NORMALLY WITH A CHOICE OF ENSUITE OR NOT #ENTRAL IN #RANS WWWCHCENTRAL n AND /LYMPIC IN -ONTANA WWWAMADAYSCH ARE TWO EXAMPLES BOTH IN THE CENTRE OF THEIR VILLAGES AND BOTH TIDY AND WELL KEPT 4HE "EAU 3ITE WWWBEAU SITE CRANSCOM n IS A COSY FAMILY RUN HOTEL IN A QUIET LOCATION WITHIN EASY REACH OF THE LIFTS 2OBINSON WWWVALAISONLINECOMROBINSON IS AN UNCOMPLICATED hGARNIv PLACE BESIDE THE TWO #RANS GONDOLAS 4HE ,AC -OUBRA CAMPSITE IN -ONTANA CLOSED MID /CT TO $EC ALSO HAS BASIC DORMS &R
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DIFFERENT ROUTES 4HE lRST VIA #HERMIGNON PASSES THROUGH #RANS THEN -ONTANA THEN ON TO !MINONA THE SECOND VIA -OLLENS PASSES THROUGH -ONTANA BEFORE TERMINATING IN #RANS )N ADDITION A BUS RUNS UP TO #RANS FROM 3ION !LL 3-# BUSES SHUTTLING TO AND FRO ON CIRCULAR ROUTES WITHIN THE RESORT BOUNDARIES ARE FREE -ONTANA TOURIST OFlCE *UNE TO MID 3EPT $ECn%ASTER -ONn3AT AMn PM 3UN AMnNOON nPM REST OF YEAR -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM 3AT AMnNOON WWWCRANS MONTANACH IS M WEST LEFT OF THE 6ERMALA FUNICULAR STATION IN THE POST OFlCE 4HE VILLAGE CENTRE IS ANOTHER M WEST FOCUSED AROUND THE 9COOR ICE SKATING RINK *UST BEYOND IS THE SMALL ,AC 'RENON RUNNING ALONG ITS NORTHERN SHORE IS THE 2OUTE DE 2AWYL n ALWAYS BUSY WITH CARS n WHICH SOME M WEST FEEDS INTO 2UE #ENTRALE IN #RANS SITE OF THE #RANS TOURIST OFlCE SAME HOURS -ORE OR LESS OPPOSITE IS THE ³TANG ,ONG LAKELET WHICH BACKS ONTO THE CHAMPIONSHIP GOLF COURSE
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%ATING WINS NO PRIZES FOR INVENTION OR QUALITY "ODY AND SOUL ARE KEPT TOGETHER BY SIMPLE DINERS SUCH AS #RÐPERIE -A "RETAGNE OPPOSITE 0ARKING 6ICTORIA IN -ONTANA OR #AFÏ DU #ENTRE BESIDE THE CHURCH 4HE !UBERGE DE LA $ILIGENCE M EAST OF -ONTANAS 6ERMALA STATION IS ,EBANESE RUN AND SERVES UP QUALITY -IDDLE %ASTERN FOOD MENUS &R IT ALSO HAS AFFORDABLE ROOMS .EXT DOOR THE (ÙTEL DE LA &ORÐT WWWDELAFORETCH CATERS SPECIlCALLY FOR VEGETARIANS #AFÏ "AR IS THE PLACE TO HANG OUT IN THE CENTRE OF #RANS JUST ROUND THE CORNER FROM THE 2UE DU 0RADO WITH ALL THE BIG GLITZY DESIGNER NAMES n 6UITTON 'UCCI (ERMÒS AND ALL
0CFSXBMMJT %AST OF 3IERRE STRETCHES THE 'ERMAN SPEAKING PORTION OF 6ALAIS n OR 7ALLIS AS IT OFlCIALLY BECOMES 4O MARK IT OUT FROM THE ,OWER 6ALAIS TO THE WEST THIS IS KNOWN AS 5PPER 6ALAIS OR /BERWALLIS 4HE MAIN TOWN OF THE REGION "RIG IS AN IMPORTANT ROAD AND RAIL JUNCTION BUT IS OTHERWISE OF LIMITED INTEREST THE CONCEALED ,ÚTSCHEN VALLEY IS A MORE WORTHWHILE DETOUR 4HE REASON THAT
EVERYBODY PASSES THROUGH THE AREA IS TO MAKE A PILGRIMAGE TO THE LITTLE MOUN TAIN VILLAGE OF :ERMATT IN ORDER TO LAY EYES UPON THE -ATTERHORN THE MOST FAMOUS IF NOT ACTUALLY THE HIGHEST OF ALL 3WITZERLANDS MOUNTAINS )N A SIDE VALLEY NEARBY SITS THE EQUALLY ALLURING RESORT OF 3AAS &EE WHILE EAST OF "RIG THE REMOTE 'OMS REGION FOLLOWS THE 2HÙNE TO ITS GLACIAL SOURCE
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(EADING EAST OF 3IERRE TRAFlC ON THE VALLEY mOOR ROAD STARTS TO BUILD UP AS YOU APPROACH THE ,ÚTSCHBERG 4UNNEL THE TURNOFFS TO :ERMATT AND 3AAS &EE AND THE 3IMPLON 0ASS ROUTE INTO )TALY ! COUPLE OF DIVERSIONS BRING YOU OUT OF THE CRUSH *UST BEYOND THE &RENCHn'ERMAN LANGUAGE BORDER IS A TURNING TO THE ANCIENT VILLAGE OF ,EUK WITH THE SPA RESORT OF ,EUKERBAD FURTHER UP WHILE BEYOND THE ,ÚTSCHBERG 4UNNEL TERMINUS AT 'OPPENSTEIN A MINOR ROAD PENETRATES BETWEEN THE HIGH ROCKY WALLS INTO THE LOVELY ,ÚTSCHENTAL
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0ERCHED ABOVE THE VALLEY mOOR ,%5+ ,OÒCHE IN &RENCH WWWLEUKCH IS REMARKABLY GOOD LOOKING WITH AN ARRAY OF PHOTOGENIC ANCIENT BUILDINGS INCLUD ING A lNE 2ATHAUS AND MEDIEVAL "ISCHOFSSCHLOSS "EYOND THE ROAD WINDS UP TO ,%5+%2"!$ ,OÒCHE LES "AINS %UROPES HIGHEST SPA AT M !BOVE THE VILLAGE AMIDST SOME GOOD WINTER SKIING IS THE PEDESTRIAN ONLY 'EMMI 0ASS ONE END OF A TOUGH HIKING TRAIL FROM +ANDERSTEG SEE P FROM WHERE CABLE CARS BRING YOU DOWN TO THE VILLAGE 3OOTHE YOUR TIRED MUSCLES AT EITHER OF THE MAIN PUBLIC SPA COMPLEXES 4HE "URGERBAD 3UNn4HURS AMnPM &RI 3AT AMnPM -AY *UNE .OV CLOSES HR EARLIER &R WWWBURGERBAD CH HAS OUTDOOR AND INDOOR THERMAL POOLS AS WELL AS STEAM BATHS PLUNGE POOLS AND EXERCISE ROOMS THE ,INDNER !LPENTHERME SAME HOURS &R WWW ALPENTHERMECH IS A MORE RElNED AFFAIR n INDULGE IN THE WORKS AT THE 2OMAN )RISH BATH 4HE TOURIST OFlCE WWWLEUKERBADCH HAS DETAILS OF THE MANY DISCOUNT DEALS AND ALL IN PACKAGES OFFERED BY SPA HOTELS 5IF-ÚUTDIFOUBM
! SHORT DISTANCE EAST ABOVE THE VILLAGES OF 3TEG AND 'AMPEL IS THE VALLEY OF THE 2IVER ,ONZA ! NARROW ROAD SWITCHBACKS IN TIGHT CURVES UP FROM THE VALLEY mOOR TRAFlC REMAINS HEAVY UNTIL THE TINY VILLAGE OF 'OPPENSTEIN AT THE SOUTH ERN EXIT OF THE ,ÚTSCHBERG 4UNNEL FROM +ANDERSTEG SEE BOX P USED BY CAR CARRYING TRAINS THAT SHUTTLE CONTINUOUSLY BENEATH THE !LPS )GNORE THE BUSTLE OF THIS MOST INCONGRUOUS RAIL STATION TOWERED OVER BY ROCKY CRAGS AND HEAD ON 9OU EMERGE INTO THE STUNNINGLY BEAUTIFUL ,¾43#(%.4!, COMPRISING HALF A DOZEN TRANQUIL COMMUNITIES STRUNG ALONG KM OF THE VALLEY mOOR AND OVERLOOKED ON BOTH SIDES BY !LPINE RIDGES TOPPING M 4HE HUGE GLACIERS SLIDING DOWN FROM THE +ONKORDIAPLATZ SEE P ARE A CONSTANT PRESENCE AT THE HEAD OF THE VALLEY 4HERE ARE FEW MORE IMPRESSIVE SCENES IN THE !LPS 4RAILS FROM +ANDERSTEG VIA THE ,ÚTSCHEN 0ASS SEE P DROP DOWN TO THE VALLEY mOOR AT THE lRST VILLAGE &ERDEN M *UST KM ON PAST THE PHOTO GENIC HAMLET OF +IPPEL THE MAIN VALLEY COMMUNITY IS 7ILER HOME BOTH OF THE TOURIST OFlCE WWWLOETSCHENTALCH AND A CABLE CAR UP TO THE ,AUCHERNALP 4HIS IS THE FOCUS OF SKIING IN WINTER WITH ACCESS TO PISTES UP TO M ON THE LOOMING (OCKENHORN A ONESIX DAY PASS IS &R 4HE VALLEY mOOR ROAD TRICKLES ON AMIDST INCREASINGLY WILD AND BEAUTIFUL SCENERY
PAST "LATTEN TO END AT THE HAMLET OF &AmERALP M A SCANT KM FROM THE NOSE OF THE MASSIVE ,ANGGLETSCHER ! HANDFUL OF HOTELS AND HIKERS INNS IS DOTTED ALONG THE VALLEY 4HE GRAND ,ÚTSCH BERG AT +IPPEL WWWHOTEL LOETSCHBERGCH HAS BEEN AROUND SINCE THE 3PORTING AT 7ILER WWWRHONECHSPORTING AND WELCOMING &AmERALP WWWFAmERALPCH ARE ALSO GOOD BETS 4HE BIGGEST OF HALF A DOZEN CAMPSITES IS ,ONZASTRAND 4HE ,ÚTSCHENTAL IS KNOWN AROUND 3WITZERLAND FOR ITS TRADITION OF MASK MAKING DISPLAYED TO FULL EFFECT IN THE WEEK BEFORE !SH 7EDNESDAY FOR THE EXTRAORDINARY 2OITSCHËGGËTTË WHEN LOCALS DON GROTESQUE SHAGGY MASKS FOR A SERIES OF NIGHT TIME PARADES THROUGH THE VILLAGES IN AN ANCIENT ,ENTEN CEREMONY
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"Y VIRTUE OF ITS LOCATION YOU MAY lND YOURSELF SPENDING A NIGHT IN THE GRACE FUL OLD TOWN OF "2)' "RIGUE IN &RENCH "RIGA IN )TALIAN )TS THE FULCRUM FOR A DIZZYING SERIES OF MAJOR ROAD AND RAIL ROUTES SOUTHEAST THROUGH THE 3IMPLON TRAIN TUNNEL INTO )TALY SOUTHWEST TO :ERMATT AT THE FOOT OF THE -ATTERHORN AND 3AAS &EE WEST TO ,AKE 'ENEVA NORTH THROUGH THE ,ÚTSCHBERG 4UNNEL TOWARDS "ERN AND NORTHEAST TO THE HIGH !LPINE PASSES 4HE HUGE TRAIN STATION STANDS AT THE NORTHERN EDGE OF THE TOWN CONNECTED TO "RIGS BROAD COBBLED CENTRAL SQUARE n THE FOCUS OF THE /LD 4OWN AND CALLED IN ITS VARIOUS SECTORS 3TADTPLATZ -ARKTPLATZ AND 3EBASTIANSPLATZ n BY THE MAIN SHOPPING STREET OF "AHNHOFSTRASSE /VERLOOKING THE SQUARE IS THE TINY 3EBASTIANSKAPELLE BUILT BY LOCAL BIGWIG 3TOCKALPER SEE BELOW IN WITH A NETWORK OF PICTURESQUE ALLEYS WINDING BEHIND AND AROUND IT ,ANES OFF THE SOUTHEAST CORNER OF THE SQUARE LEAD ALONG !LTE 3IMPLONSTRASSE PAST MANY lNE PATRICIAN TOWN HOUSES DATING FROM THE SEVENTEENTH AND EIGHT EENTH CENTURIES TO THE 3CHLOSS 3TOCKALPER 4HIS GRANDIOSE )TALIANATE PALACE n FOR MUCH OF ITS LIFE THE LARGEST PRIVATE RESIDENCE IN 3WITZERLAND n DOMINATES THE OTHERWISE SIMPLE TOWN )T WAS COMPLETED IN TO SERVE AS THE HOME OF +ASPAR *ODOK VON 3TOCKALPER A MERCHANT FROM "RIG WHO lRST MADE A MINT CONTROLLING THE TRADE IN SILK OVER THE 3IMPLON 0ASS TO ,YON MOVED ON TO MAKE ANOTHER KILLING ORGANIZING MAIL TRANSPORT BETWEEN -ILAN AND 'ENEVA AND lNALLY GAINED THE MONOPOLY IN TRADING SALT OVER THE PASS 9OU CAN STROLL FROM THE STREET INTO THE TRIPLE ARCADED INTERIOR COURTYARD ESPECIALLY BEAUTIFUL WHEN IT CATCHES THE SUN 2EARING UP OVERHEAD ARE THREE GIANT CORNER TOWERS TOPPED BY THE ONION DOMES THAT ARE VISIBLE FROM MUCH OF THE TOWN %NTRY TO THE FEW ROOMS OPEN TO THE PUBLIC IS BY GUIDED TOUR ONLY -AYn/CT 4UESn3UN AM AM PM *UNEn3EPT ALSO PM &R n UNLESS YOURE CONlDENT IN READING THE 'ERMAN NOTES THOUGH OR YOU HAVE AN %NGLISH SPEAK ING GUIDE YOUD BEST SAVE YOUR MONEY
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1SBDUJDBMJUJFT "RIGS TOURIST OFlCE IS IN THE TRAIN STATION UP A SPIRAL STAIRCASE *ULYn3EPT -ONn &RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM REST OF YEAR 3AT CLOSES PM CLOSED 3UN WWWBRIG TOURISMUSCH &ROM THE FORECOURT OF "RIG STATION -'" TRAINS DEPART FOR :ERMATT AND ALSO FOR !NDERMATT SEE P VIA /BERWALD AND THE TUNNEL BENEATH THE &URKA 0ASS h'LACIER %XPRESSv PANORAMIC TRAINS SEE P USE THIS LINE TO REACH #HUR $AVOS AND 3T -ORITZ &OR DETAILS OF THE ,ÚTSCHBERG 4UNNEL CAR CARRYING TRAIN SEE P
(OTELS IN "RIG ARE ALL MODERATELY PRICED 4HE ,ONDRES 3CHWEIZERHOF "AHN HOFSTRASSE WWWHOTEL DELONDRESCH IS A COMFORT ABLE OLD PLACE WITH PLEASANT ROOMS OVERLOOKING THE MAIN SQUARE 4HE GRACEFUL 3CHLOSSHOTEL +IRCHGASSE WWWSCHLOSSHOTELCH n HAS BRIGHT AND ATTRACTIVE ROOMS OVERLOOKING THE 3CHLOSS 3TOCKALPER !LL THE CAFÏS AND RESTAURANTS AROUND THE MAIN SQUARE SET TABLES OUTSIDE DURING SUMMER PICK OF THE BUNCH IS :UM %IDGENOSSEN WHICH OFFERS FONDUES AND MEATY 7ALLISER FARE IN A TRADITIONAL ATMOSPHERE FOR AROUND &R .EARBY ON !LTE 3IMPLONSTRASSE IS THE PLEASANT LOCAL BISTRO -ATZA SERVING UP PIZZAS AND SIMPLE MEALS $OWN BY THE STATION AS WELL AS A SELF SERVICE -IGROS YOULL lND THE (OTEL 6ICTORIA WHICH OFFERS GOOD BRASSERIE STYLE FOOD WITH SOME VEGGIE OPTIONS &Rn 7"- "* 4
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5IF4JNQMPO1BTTBOE5VOOFM 4HE ROAD OVER THE 3IMPLON 0ASS M SOUTHWEST OF "RIG WAS BUILT BY .APOLEON AS A MILITARY THROUGH ROUTE BETWEEN AND IMMEDI ATELY AFTER HED SUCCESSFULLY CROSSED THE 'RAND 3T "ERNARD WITH AN ARMY SEE P 4HESE DAYS THE OLD PASS ROAD IS A MODERN 3WISS ENGINEERED HIGHWAY AND THE PASS ITSELF ISNT REALLY WORTH A SPECIlC JOURNEY WITH VIEWS NOWHERE NEAR AS IMPRESSIVE AS THOSE FROM THE OTHER GREAT !LPINE PASSES 7HAT IS WORTH WHILE THOUGH IS TO EXPLORE THE COBBLED ALLEYS AND PICTURESQUE OLD HOUSES OF 3IMPLON $ORF ON THE OTHER SIDE n STILL IN 3WITZERLAND n AS WELL AS DOWN TOWARDS THE )TALIAN BORDER THE TERRIFYINGLY STEEP AND NARROW GORGE LEADING TO THE FRONTIER HAMLET OF 'ONDO THERE ARE FEW PLACES WHERE THE CLIFF WALLS FEEL SO HIGH AND YOU FEEL SO SMALL ! STONE NEXT TO THE ROAD COMMEMORATES THE VICTIMS OF A TORRENTIAL MUD SLIDE WHICH SWEPT HALF THE VILLAGE AWAY IN !N ENERGETIC TWO OR THREE DAY HIKE COVERS THE KM 3TOCKALPER 2OAD FROM "RIG TO 'ONDO THIS IS THE MULE TRACK COMPLETED BY 3TOCKALPER FOR TRANSPORT OF GOODS BETWEEN )TALY AND THE 6ALAIS AND HAS INNS APLENTY DOTTED ALONG ITS ROUTE WHICH IS MOSTLY AWAY FROM THE HIGHWAY 7HILE YOURE STANDING ON THE PASS HEIGHTS GIVE A THOUGHT FOR THOSE CAREERING AT SPEED ON TRAINS THROUGH THE 3IMPLON 4UNNEL SOME M BENEATH THE 7ASENHORN PEAK JUST TO THE EAST 5NTIL THE OPENING OF THE NEW 'OTTHARD "ASE 4UNNEL SEE P THIS REMAINS THE LONGEST RAIL TUNNEL IN THE WORLD ENTERED JUST AFTER LEAVING "RIG STATION AND EMERGING KM LATER IN )TALY FOR THE SHORT RUN TO $OMODOSSOLA FROM WHERE 3WISS TRAINS CONNECT ON THE #ENTOVALLI LINE TO ,OCARNO SEE P AND ON SOUTH TO -ILAN 4HE COMPLETION OF THE TUNNEL IN OPENED UP AN ENTIRELY NEW TRAIN ROUTE FROM ,ONDON AND 0ARIS TO )STANBUL n THE SO CALLED 6ENICEn3IMPLON /RIENT %XPRESS n WHICH IN TURN LED TO A WHOLE NEW ERA IN PAN %UROPEAN TRAVEL 4HE 3IMPLON 0ASS ROAD IS KEPT OPEN YEAR ROUND AND OFFERS AN EASY SHORT CUT IF YOURE DRIVING TO THE 4ICINO &ROM THE )TALIAN BORDER AT 'ONDO ITS KM TO THE TOWN OF $OMODOSSOLA 3IGNAGE ON THE OUTSKIRTS IS POOR BUT IF YOU AIM FOR -ASERA YOULL PICK UP THE ROAD HEADING EAST TOWARDS 3ANTA -ARIA -AGGIORE IN THE 6AL 6IGEZZO WHICH LEADS ON TO THE 3WISS BORDER AT #ÉMEDO ROUGHLY KM FROM $OMODOSSOLA &ROM #ÉMEDO THE ROAD CONTINUES TO ,OCARNO
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.O OTHER NATURAL OR HUMAN STRUC TURE IN THE WHOLE COUNTRY IS SO IMMEDIATELY RECOGNIZABLE INDEED IN MOST PEOPLES MINDS THE -ATTER HORN STANDS FOR 3WITZERLAND LIKE THE %IFFEL 4OWER STANDS FOR &RANCE 0ART OF THE REASON THE -ATTERHORN IS SO FAMOUS IS THAT IT STANDS ALONE ITS IMPOSSIBLY POINTY SHAPE STICKING UP FROM AN OTHERWISE UNCROWDED HORIZON ABOVE :ERMATT VILLAGE AT M "UT YOU GET THE FEELING THAT IT WOULD BE FAMOUS EVEN IF IT STOOD WITHIN A CHAIN OF PEAKS THERES JUST SOMETHING ABOUT IT THATS BIZARRELY MESMERIZING TO SEE FOR REAL %MERGING FROM :ERMATT STATION IS AN EXPERIENCE IN ITSELF THIS ONE LITTLE VILLAGE n WHICH HAS MANAGED MUCH TO ITS CREDIT TO CLING ONTO ITS OLD BROWN CHALETS AND ATMOSPHERIC TWISTING ALLEYS n WELCOMES EVERY BODY REGARDLESS OF lNANCIAL STATUS AND THE STATION SQUARE IS WHERE ALL WORLDS COLLIDE "ACKPACKERS AND ©5 (ORSE DRAWN©CARRIAGE ©:ERMATT HIKERS RUB SHOULDERS WITH HIGH SOCIETY GLITTERATI AMIDST A mUSTER OF TOUR GROUPS ELECTRIC TAXIS AND HORSE DRAWN CARRIAGES %VERYONE HAS COME TO SEE THE MOUNTAIN :ERMATT HAS NO OFF SEASON n ITS BUSY YEAR ROUND n YET THE CROWDS NEVER SEEM TO MATTER 9OU MAY HAVE TO SHOULDER YOUR WAY DOWN THE MAIN STREET BUT THE TERRAIN ALL AROUND IS EXPANSIVE ENOUGH THAT WITH A LITTLE EFFORT YOU COULD VANISH INTO THE WILDERNESS LEAVING EVERYONE ELSE BEHIND 4HE SMALL AREA AROUND :ERMATT FEATURES MOUNTAINS OVER M A STATISTIC AS ENTICING TO SUMMER HIKERS AS TO WINTER SKIERS !S EARLY AS THE S "RIT ISH CLIMBERS ADOPTED THE ISOLATED HAMLET AS A BASE CAMP FROM WHICH TO SCALE THE NEARBY PEAKS 4HE lRST HOTEL OPENED IN !LL THROUGH THE NINETEENTH CENTURY WORD OF THE PLACE SPREAD AND THE LOCAL COMMUNITY QUICKLY SAW THE POTENTIAL GRAND HOTELS WENT UP AND PUBLIC FUNDS WERE DIVERTED INTO CONSTRUC TION OF THE 'ORNERGRAT RACK RAILWAY AT THE TURN OF THE CENTURY 4HE SKIING BOOM OF THE S SAW THE HAMLET DOUBLE IN SIZE BUT TODAY ITS STILL ACCEPTABLY SMALL AND LOW KEY ROOTED TO THE VALLEY mOOR IN A NATURAL BOWL OPEN TO THE SOUTH 4HE 'ORNERGRAT RAILWAY LIFTS YOU UP TO A SPECTACULAR VANTAGE POINT OVERLOOKING THE -ONTE 2OSA MASSIF WITH ITS SUMMIT THE $UFOURSPITZE M n THE HIGHEST POINT IN 3WITZERLAND 4HE SKIING IS SUPERB BUT IN MANY WAYS THE HIKING IS BETTER WITH SOME OF THE MOST SCENIC MOUNTAIN WALKS IN THE WHOLE COUNTRY WITHIN EASY REACH OF THE VILLAGE
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nPM REST OF YEAR -ONn3AT AMnNOON nPM 3UN AMnNOON nPM WWWZERMATT CH ! CHANNEL OF CABLE 46 WITHIN THE VILLAGE SHOWS LIVE PICTURES FROM LOCAL SUMMITS INCLUDING THE 2OTHORN 'ORNERGRAT AND 4ROCKENER 3TEG n HANDY FOR VIEWING WEATHER CONDITIONS
"DDPNNPEBUJPO !CCOMMODATION IN :ERMATT IS ALMOST UNIVERSALLY EXCELLENT 4HE VILLAGE IS SO USED TO TOURISTS n IN FACT THERE IS NO VILLAGE WITHOUT THE TOURISTS n THAT SERVICE HAS BEEN lNE TUNED AND FACILITIES ACROSS ALL PRICE BRACKETS ARE GOOD 4HERE ARE DOZENS OF HOTELS SO YOU SHOULDNT HAVE ANY PROBLEM lNDING SOMEWHERE TO SUIT HIGH SEASON IS AN EXCEPTION WHEN YOU SHOULD BOOK AS FAR AHEAD AS POSSIBLE )T MUST BE SAID TOO THAT -ATTERHORN VIEWS FROM YOUR BALCONY OR WINDOW ARE TRULY WORTH PAYING FOR THE MOUNTAIN IS SO MAGNIlCENT THAT YOU WONT GET BORED OF OPENING YOUR EYES TO IT EACH MORNING !PARTMENTS OR CHALETS SHOULD ALSO BE BOOKED WELL IN ADVANCE SOME PLACES ARE RESERVED A YEAR AHEAD 4HE STANDARD RENTAL PERIOD IS A 3ATURDAY TO 3ATURDAY
WEEK ONLY A HANDFUL OF OWNERS ARE WILLING TO RENT FOR LESS AND THEN ONLY IN THE LOW SEASON FOR A MINIMUM THREE DAYS *OFYQFOTJWFIPUFMT
7"- "* 4
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ATMOSPHERIC PLACE TO SPEND THE NIGHT )TS ALSO BEEN TOTALLY REVAMPED INSIDE WITH STYLISH MODERN INTERI ORS MIN BY 'ORNERGRAT TRAIN FROM :ERMATT 1FSSFO WWWHOTEL PERRENCH 'RACEFUL MODERN HOTEL ON THE RIVERBANK WITH AN APPEALING STYLISHNESS TO ITS WELL APPOINTED ROOMS ! BARGAIN n 1PMMVY WWWRECONLINECH POLLUX -ODERN GLITZY PLACE BANG ON THE MAIN DRAG WITH PLENTY OF STYLE AND COMFORTABLE ROOMS SOME FACING OFF THE STREET n 3JGGFMBMQ WWWRIFFELALP COM 3UPERBLY RENOVATED MOUNTAIN HOTEL WAY UP AT M ON THE SLOPES ABOVE THE VILLAGE n FOR DECADES A RATHER DOWN AT HEEL MOUNTAIN INN NOW A FULL BLOWN LUXURY RESORT WITH SPACIOUS STYLISH ROOMS AND SUITES AND SOME OUTSTANDING -ATTERHORN VIEWS MIN BY 'ORNERGRAT TRAIN FROM :ERMATT n 3JGGFMCFSH WWWZERMATT CHRIFFELBERG !NOTHER TEN MINUTES UP THE 'ORNER GRAT TRAIN LINE PAST 2IFFELALP n A FAIRLY STANDARD THREE STAR MOUNTAIN HOTEL AT M WITH COSY COMFORTABLE ROOMS PRICED HIGH FOR THE SUPERB LOCATION n ;FSNBUUFSIPG WWWZERMATT CHZERMATTERHOF 4HE GRANDEST HOTEL IN THE CANTON AND ONE OF THE lNEST IN THE COUNTRY BUILT WELL OVER A CENTURY AGO BUT GLITTERINGLY UP TO DATE INSIDE -ANAGES TO BE EFFORTLESSLY LUXURIOUS WITHOUT A HINT OF TASTELESS RESORT SWAGGER n
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ALLEYS RUN DOWN INTO (INTERDORF AN ATTRACTIVE OLD QUARTER BY THE RIVER FULL OF OLD WEATHERED WOOD CHALETS AND TRADITIONAL MAZOTS BARNS RAISED ON STONE DISCS TO PROTECT AGAINST MICE 3OME M SOUTH OF THE STATION IS THE CHURCH ANOTHER MAIN LANDMARK ITS RIVERSIDE CEMETERY lLLED WITH MEMORIALS TO ATTEMPTS ON THE -ATTERHORN AND OTHER PEAKS GONE WRONG &ROM HERE A STREET DOGLEGS EAST OVER THE RIVER TO THE DISTRICT OF 3TEINMATTE ON THE OPPOSITE BANK 4HE CABLE CAR STATION UP TO 4ROCKENER 3TEG AND +LEIN -ATTERHORN IS M SOUTH OF THE CHURCH "ESIDE THE POST OFlCE IS THE !LPINE -USEUM *UNEn/CT DAILY AMnNOON nPM .OVn-AY -ONn&RI 3UN nPM &R n WORTH A VISIT WITH AN INTERESTING COLLECTION OF MOUNTAINEERING BITS AND BOBS AS WELL AS A ROOM DEVOTED TO %DWARD 7HYMPER AN %NGLISH CLIMBER WHO LED THE lRST ASCENT OF THE -ATTERHORN ON *ULY ONLY FOR THE ROPE TO SNAP ON THE DESCENT n FOUR OF HIS PARTY OF SEVEN WENT OVER A PRECIPICE 5IF(PSOFSHSBUSBJMXBZ
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)N SUMMER THE SLOPES ABOVE :ERMATT HOLD SOME OF THE COUNTRYS MOST SCENIC HIKING TRAILS 4HE EVER POPULAR ''" 'ORNERGRAT "AHN WWW GGBCH LEADS UP FROM THE VILLAGE ACROSS THE MEADOWS OF THE 2IFFELALP TO THE 'ORNERGRAT ITSELF M n GET A SEAT ON THE RIGHT HAND SIDE FOR MAGICAL -ATTERHORN VISTAS 4HE 'ORNERGRAT IS THE lRST POINT ON A RIDGE THAT RUNS OUT TO THE (OHTËLLIGRAT M AND AMIDST A SEA OF ICE THE 3TOCKHORN M ALL LINKED BY CABLE CAR FROM 'ORNERGRAT 4HE VIEW FROM ANY OF THESE PEAKS IS TERRIlC WITH THE ENTIRE -ONTE 2OSA MASSIF LAID OUT IN FRONT OF YOU THE VAST 'ORNERGLETSCHER CARVING ALONG AT YOUR FEET AND THE -ATTERHORN ITSELF IN ISOLATION AWAY TO ONE SIDE AT YOUR BACK IS THE 2OTHORN M BEHIND IT THE $OM M AND BEHIND THE $OM THE WHOLE SWEEP OF THE 0ENNINE !LPS (IKES BETWEEN THE VARIOUS STATIONS ON THE 'ORNERGRAT RAILWAY ARE ALL VERY REWARDING WITH FOR EXAMPLE THREE GOOD TRAILS LEADING OUT FROM THE GRAND HOTEL ALONGSIDE THE STATION AT 2IFFELALP SEE h!CCOMMODATIONv EASIEST OF WHICH IS THE PLEASANT ONE HOUR WALK UP TO THE 2IFFELBERG HOTEL ON A SPECTACULAR EXPOSED PLATFORM OVERLOOKING THE VALLEY )N SUMMER MID *UNE TO MID 3EPT THERE ARE ONCE WEEKLY DAWN TRAINS UP TO THE 'ORNERGRAT SO YOU CAN CATCH AN AWE INSPIRING SUNRISE BREAK ON THE -ATTERHORN 0UIFSNPVOUBJOSPVUFTBCPWF;FSNBUU
&ROM :ERMATT VILLAGE AN UNDERGROUND FUNICULAR TUNNELS UP TO 3UNNEGGA M ALSO ON A PLATEAU AND LINKED TO THE 2OTHORN SUMMIT BY GONDOLA 7ALKS FROM 3UNNEGGA ARE BEAUTIFUL WEAVING FOR A COMFORTABLE HOUR OR TWO BETWEEN THE TINY LAKELETS OF THE ,EISEE -OOSJESEE 'RINDJISEE AND 3TELLISEE OUT TO &LUHALP M &ROM THE SOUTH END OF :ERMATT VILLAGE CABLE CARS RUN TO &URI AND ON UP TO 4ROCKENER 3TEG M OVERLOOKING THE GIGANTIC 4HEODULGLETSCHER WHICH SLIDES OVER THE )TALIAN BORDER AT THE FOOT OF THE -ATTERHORN &ROM 4ROCKENER 3TEG ANOTHER CABLE CAR RUNS UP TO THE CREST OF THE +LEIN -ATTERHORN n AT M THIS IS THE HIGHEST CABLE CAR STATION IN %UROPE 4HERES AN ICE PAVILION AND OTHER BITS AND BOBS ON TOP PLANS ARE AFOOT TO CONSTRUCT A LUXURY HOTEL UP HERE &ROM &URI THE CABLE CAR UP TO THE LITTLE 3CHWARZSEE GIVES WHAT IS COMMENDED AS THE MOST PICTURE PERFECT VIEWS OF THE -ATTERHORN AT CLOSE QUARTERS AND REmECTED IN A PINE FRINGED LAKE !GAIN HIKES ABOUND INCLUDING A LONG BUT EASY WALK HR BACK DOWN INTO :ERMATT VILLAGE
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#ONSIDERING THE PRICES IN SOME OF :ERMATTS HUNDRED PLUS RESTAURANTS OPTING FOR PICNIC FARE FROM THE #O OP SUPERMARKET OPPOSITE THE TRAIN STATION IS A PRUDENT MOVE IF YOURE ON A TIGHT BUDGET 4HERE ARE PLENTY OF PLACES WHERE YOU CAN GET DINER STYLE FAST FOOD FOR UNDER &R THE (OTEL 0OST IS THE BEST INCORPO RATING THE "ROWN #OW SNACK BAR A 3PAGHETTI &ACTORY AND THE FAMOUS "ROKEN BAR AND PIZZERIA 4HE POPULAR .ORTH 7ALL BAR WWWNORTHWALLBARCOM ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE RIVER SOUTH OF THE "RISTOL HAS PIZZAS FROM &R AND DRAFT BEER AT &RHALF LITRE 4HERE ARE A FEW EQUALLY INEXPENSIVE CAFÏS BEYOND THE CHURCH n BEST IS THE PEACEFUL AND PLEASANT #AFÏ DU 0ONT ON A NICE CORNER :!LT (ISCHI DOWN IN (INTERDORF IS ANOTHER ALTHOUGH ITS MORE OF A QUIET PLACE TO SAVOUR A BEER THAN ANYTHING ELSE %LSIES 0LACE OPPOSITE THE CHURCH IS AN UNEXPECTEDLY COSY LITTLE NOOK ALTHOUGH A LITTLE OVER GLITZY IN SEASON AT LEAST IT OFFERS LIGHT SNACKS TO HELP YOUR COCKTAIL GO DOWN -OVING UP THE SCALE THE !NTARES ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE RIVER SERVES QUALITY lSH DISHES IN ITS PLUSH CARVED WOOD DINING ROOM FOR AROUND &R 4HE 2OTHORN STUBE IN (OTEL 0ERREN IS ANOTHER COMFORTABLE PLACE WHERE YOU CAN SELECT FROM A RANGE OF DIFFERENT MENUS FROM &R TO &R OR MORE 4HE ATMOSPHERE IN THE "UFFET 2OYAL AT THE :ERMATTERHOF (OTEL OR THE GLORIOUS %DWARDIAN STYLE 7HYM PERSTUBE IN THE CENTRAL (OTEL -ONTE 2OSA IS FORMAL AND RESTRAINED BUT IF YOU CAN AFFORD THE THREE lGURE SUMS REQUIRED A MEAL AT EITHER OF THESE PLACES IS LIKELY TO BE AT LEAST AS MEMORABLE AS YOUR RIDE TO THE 'ORNERGRAT 4HE THREE SEPARATE RESTAURANTS IN THE SUPERB 2IFFELALP RESORT PARTWAY UP THE 'ORNERGRAT LINE ARE SIMILARLY OUTSTANDING WITH THE ADDED BENElT OF THE SENSATIONAL VIEWS
4BBT'FF ,YING IN THE NEXT DOOR VALLEY TO :ERMATT 3!!3 &%% M IS SOMETIMES OVERLOOKED PERHAPS BECAUSE IT DOESNT HAVE ANY TRAIN ACCESS (OWEVER WERE IT NOT FOR THE -ATTERHORN NEXT DOOR THE ARRAY OF PEAKS AROUND 3AAS &EE WOULD TAKE CENTRE STAGE ON ANY !LPINE ITINERARY THE VILLAGE IS PERCHED ON A SHELF OF PASTURE AT THE BASE OF A HORSESHOE OF THIRTEEN M PLUS PEAKS /OZING OUT FROM BETWEEN THEM IS THE GIANT &EEGLETSCHER n OR &AIRY 'LACIER n TRICKLING ITS MELTWATER DOWN THROUGH THE VILLAGE AND ACTIVE ENOUGH IN ITS VARIOUS SECTORS TO LIMIT WHAT WOULD OTHERWISE BE SPECTACULAR SKIING 4HE DANGER OF FALLING DOWN A GLACIAL CREVASSE IF YOU STRAY BEYOND PISTE MARKINGS IS MORE PRONOUNCED IN 3AAS &EE THAN IN MOST OTHER RESORTS 4HE VILLAGE IS HEAVILY TOURISTED BUT CAN LAY CLAIM TO UNRIVALLED !LPINE VIEWS AND LANDSCAPES 4HROUGHOUT THE VILLAGE YOU MAY COME ACROSS THE NAME :URBRIGGEN ON A NUMBER OF SHOP SIGNS IF THE NAME SOUNDS FAMILIAR ITS BECAUSE 0IRMIN :URBRIGGEN A LOCAL BOY MADE GOOD WAS A DOWNHILL SKIING WORLD CHAMPION IN THE S 4ODAY HE OWNS A HOTEL IN TINY 3AAS !LMAGELL UP THE VALLEY AS WELL AS ANOTHER IN :ERMATT 6ARIOUS BRANCHES OF THE FAMILY HAVE KEPT THEIR FOOTHOLD IN 3AAS &EE 3AAS &EE IS ONE OF FOUR LINKED VILLAGES AT THE END OF THE 3AASTAL "USES FROM "RIG PASS THROUGH 6ISP AND THEN 3TALDEN BOTH ON THE TRAIN LINE BEFORE BRANCHING OFF INTO THE 3AASTAL ITSELF PASSING lRST THROUGH 3AAS "ALEN THEN 3AAS 'RUND THE MAIN VILLAGE ON THE VALLEY mOOR FROM HERE A ROAD BRANCHES UP TO 3AAS &EE n WHICH IS CAR FREE n WHILE A FEW KILOMETRES ON DOWN THE VALLEY IS 3AAS !LMAGELL
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1SBDUJDBMJUJFT &ROM THE ENTRANCE TO 3AAS &EE SEVERAL QUAINT LANES LEAD DOWN SOUTHWEST INTO THE HEART OF THE VILLAGE FULL OF SHOPS AND SOME BOUTIQUES BUT STILL WITH MUCH CHARACTER AND CHARM 3AAS &EE IS CAR FREE AND THERE IS A HUGE PARKING AREA AT THE ENTRANCE TO THE VILLAGE &RDAY DISCOUNTED WITH A VISITOR CARD ISSUED BY YOUR HOTEL PARK ING AT THE BASE OF THE GONDOLA IN 3AAS 'RUND OR AT 3AAS !LMAGELL IS CHEAPER BUT YOUD DO JUST AS WELL TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE CHEAPER DEALS IN 6ISP SEE BOX P AND CATCH THE BUS IN %LECTRO TAXIS SHUTTLE AROUND ALL POINTS IN THE VILLAGE FOR &Rn OR SO 4HE BUS STATION IS BESIDE THE CAR PARK AS IS THE TOURIST OFlCE -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM 3AT AMnPM WWWSAAS FEECH 4HERES ALSO A TOURIST OFlCE IN 3AAS 'RUND -ONn3AT AMnNOON nPM 3UN nAM nPM WWWSAASTALCH AND SMALLER OFlCES ALONG THE VALLEY "DDPNNPEBUJPO
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AND LOW PRICES 2UNS GUIDED HIKES MOUNTAIN BIKE RIDES CLIMBS AND SKI TOURS n 'FSJFOBSU WWWFERIENARTCH 4OP RATED lVE STAR HOTEL BANG IN THE HEART OF THE VILLAGE WITH SPA SAUNA AND SOLARIUM IN ADDITION TO SPACIOUS ELEGANT ROOMS MANY WITH A *ACUZZI AND SUPERBLY LUXURIOUS SUITES n +ÊHFSIPG WWWSAAS FEE CHJAEGERHOF &INE MID RANGE OPTION IN A TRANQUIL LOCATION RIGHT ON THE EDGE OF THE VILLAGE n IN WINTER YOU CAN SKI TO THE DOOR n 3PNBOUJL)PUFM#FBV4JUF XXXCFBVTJUFPSH4VQFSC DFOUSBM iXFMMOFTTwIPUFM XJUIPOTJUFTQBBOEIFBMUIDFOUSF "mYUVSFJOUIFWJMMBHFGPSNPSFUIBOZFBST XJUIVOJRVFMZDIBSBDUFSGVMSPPNTBOEBUUFOUJWF TFSWJDF o
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THE VALLEY HAS LIFTS UP TO THE VANTAGE POINT OF THE %GGISHORN ABOVE THE HAMLET OF +UHBODEN OFFERING THE lNEST VIEWS OF THE GLACIER !BOVE &IESCH THE 2HÙNE IS LITTLE MORE THAN A FAST mOWING MOUNTAIN BROOK AND THE VILLAGES BECOME SMALLER AND MORE RURAL 3OME KM PAST &IESCH IS THE HAMLET OF .IEDERWALD WHICH PROUDLY ANNOUNCES ITS CLAIM TO FAME WITH A 53 STYLE BILLBOARD IT WAS HERE IN THAT #ÏSAR 2ITZ WHO WENT ON TO FOUND THE 2ITZ HOTEL CHAIN WAS BORN 3OME KM FURTHER ON IS THE LITTLE COMMUNITY OF -Ä.34%2 !WAY FROM THE MAIN ROAD THE TRANQUIL VILLAGE IS CHARACTERIZED BY THE TRADITIONAL 6ALAISIAN STYLE CHALETS ALL CLUSTERED TOGETHER HIGGLEDY PIGGLEDY BURNT A RICH DARK BROWN AND DECORATED WITH PRETTY GERANIUM WINDOW BOXES !T THEIR CENTRE IS A STRIKING WHITE CHURCH WITH A WOOD PANELLED BARREL VAULT CEILING AND mORID "AROQUE INTERIOR n THIS IS THOUGHT TO BE ALL THAT REMAINS OF A MEDIEVAL MONASTERY WHICH ONCE STOOD SOMEWHERE NEARBY 4HE HANDFUL OF HOTELS IN THE VILLAGE IS WORTH PASSING OVER IN FAVOUR OF THE #ROIX D/R ET 0OSTE BESIDE THE MAIN ROAD WWWHOTEL POSTMUENSTERCH n A MARVELLOUS OLD BUILDING DATING FROM 5P TO OR SO IT WAS THE RESIDENCE OF THE NOBLE FAMILY OF PRINCE BISHOPS 6ON 2IEDMATTEN THESE DAYS ITS EVERY BIT AS ATMOSPHERIC AS THAT SOUNDS ITS PUBLIC ROOMS FESTOONED WITH 6ICTORIAN BRIC Ì BRAC THE FEW GUEST ROOMS MORE SUBDUED BUT STILL CHARACTERFUL 6ALUE FOR MONEY EXTENDS TO THE COOKING AS WELL WITH SUPERB MENUS FOR &Rn
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THE JOURNEY FROM THEIR SUBURBAN HOMES TO WALK IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF 7ILLIAM 4ELL AND THE SEMI MYSTICAL FOUNDERS OF THE NATION 4RANSPORT LINKS AROUND THE REGION ARE EXCELLENT WITH THE mEET OF LAKE STEAMERS FROM ,UZERN RUNNING THROUGHOUT THE YEAR SERVING SHORESIDE VILLAGES AND SMALL RESORTS TUCKED AGAINST THE SUGARLOAF CLIFFS THAT HAVE LIMITED OR NO ROAD ACCESS )N ADDITION A HANDFUL OF RACK RAILWAYS SERVE MOUNTAIN TOPS AROUND THE LAKE MOST FAMOUSLY THE 0ILATUS AND THE 2IGI AND PLENTY OF EASY SHORT AND LONG DISTANCE HIKING TRAILS CAN GET YOU WELL OFF THE BEATEN PATH n ALTHOUGH MANY ALSO HOP CONVENIENTLY FROM ONE LANDING STAGE TO THE NEXT #ENTRAL 3WITZERLANDS LONG STANDING TRADITION OF TOURISM MEANS THAT EVERY HAMLET HAS ITS CHOICE OF HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS 4HE ARRAY OF SIGHTS EXCURSIONS MUSEUMS AND ACTIVITIES MAKES THIS ONE OF THE DENSEST AND MOST REWARDING AREAS OF THE COUNTRY TO EXPLORE
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!N HOUR SOUTH OF "ASEL AND :àRICH AND BOASTING INVIGORATING MOUNTAIN VIEWS LAKE CRUISES AND A PICTURESQUE OLD QUARTER ,5:%2. ,UCERNE IN &RENCH AND %NGLISH ,UCERNA IN )TALIAN HAS LONG BEEN ONE OF %UROPES MOST HEAVILY TOURISTED TOWNS 7HEN 1UEEN 6ICTORIA CAME FOR A LONG HOLIDAY IN !UGUST CHECKING IN UNDER THE PSEUDONYM OF THE h#OUNTESS OF +ENTv THE TOWN WAS ALREADY WELL KNOWN AND A CENTURY OF STEADY GROWTH HAS RESULTED THESE DAYS IN lVE MILLION ADMIRERS PASSING THROUGH ANNUALLY 4OURISM IS THE LEADING SOURCE OF INCOME WHICH IN RECENT YEARS HAS LED IN SOME QUARTERS TO A RATHER BLASÏ ATTI TUDE TOWARDS VISITORS ALTHOUGH THE CITY HAS RETAINED A GOOD DEAL OF CHARM THE
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SAME CANT BE SAID OF ALL ITS RESTAURANT WAITERS AND HOTEL STAFF 9OU MAY lND YOUR EXPERIENCE OF THE CITY IN THE SUMMER HIGH SEASON IN PARTICULAR BEING COLOURED BY ASSOCIATION WITH THE HORDES OF SHORT STAY TRIPPERS THAT RUSH THROUGH ON THEIR WAY TO THE MOUNTAINS 4HE 2IVER 2EUSS SPLITS THE TOWN mOWING RAPIDLY OUT OF THE NORTHWESTERN END OF THE LAKE "OTH BANKS ARE CLUSTERED WITH MEDIEVAL SQUARES FRESCOED HOUSES ANCIENT GUILDHALLS CHURCHES AND CHAPELS AND lLLED WITH A COMMERCIALLY MINDED LIVELINESS THAT BELIES THE CITYS AGE !SIDE FROM USING ,UZERN AS A BASE FROM WHICH TO EXPLORE THE REGION IT WOULD BE EASY TO SPEND AT LEAST A COUPLE OF DAYS TAKING IN SOME OF ITS QUALITY MUSEUMS n THE OUTSTANDING 2OSENGART GALLERY A UNIQUE 0ICASSO MUSEUM THE IMPRESSIVE 6ERKEHRSHAUS n IN BETWEEN WALKING ON THE MEDIEVAL BATTLEMENTS AND EXPLORING COBBLED ALLEYS AND HIDDEN GARDEN COURTYARDS "UT ,UZERN IS NO MUSEUM PIECE THE CITYS LARGE POPULATION OF YOUNG PEOPLE LOVE THEIR CAFÏ CULTURE AND AT MIDNIGHT ON A WEEKEND NIGHT THE MAIN 0ILATUSSTRASSE BOULEVARD HAS THE BUZZ OF ANY %UROPEAN CAPITAL WITH PEOPLE BAR HOPPING WAITING FOR THE LAST BUS OR HANGING OUT DECIDING WHERE TO GO 7HETHER YOURE CHARMED BY ,UZERNS SENSE OF HISTORY AND TRADITION OR BY THE MISTY LAKE AT ITS DOORSTEP AND THE SNOW CAPPED 0ILATUS RISING ABOVE OR EVEN BY THE NIGHTLIFE CHARMED IS WHAT YOULL BE 4PNFIJTUPSZ
,UZERNS FOUNDING IS LOST IN HISTORY 4HE TOWNS NAME PROBABLY DERIVES FROM THE #ELTIC WORD LOZZERIA MEANING hA SETTLEMENT ON MARSHY GROUNDv AND THATS MORE OR LESS ALL ,UZERN WAS IN THE MID EIGHTH CENTURY WHEN THE SMALL "ENEDICTINE MONASTERY WHICH EXISTED HERE IS THOUGHT TO HAVE COME UNDER THE CONTROL OF THE !LSATIAN !BBEY OF -URBACH .OTHING CONCRETE IS KNOWN ABOUT ,UZERN UNTIL WHEN AN ABBOT ESTABLISHED A LAY ORDER AT THE +APELLKIRCHE NOW 3T 0ETERS #HAPEL INDICATING THAT QUITE A SUBSTANTIAL SETTLEMENT MUST HAVE EXISTED IN THE AREA !ROUND THE OPENING OF THE 'OTTHARD 0ASS FURTHER SOUTH CREATED NEW IMPETUS FOR GROWTH WITH MERCHANTS AND TRAVELLERS SETTING SAIL FROM ,UZERN FOR THE LONG TRANS !LPINE JOURNEY THE lRST LAKESIDE ROAD WAS BUILT ONLY IN %YEING THE PROSPERITY mOWING INTO THE COMMUNITIES ON THE NORTHERN SIDE OF THE NEW PASS 2UDOLF OF (ABSBURG BOUGHT ,UZERN OUTRIGHT FROM -URBACH IN INTENDING TO SUBDUE IT AND CHANNEL ITS PROlTS INTO THE IMPERIAL COFFERS !T THE SAME TIME THOUGH THE PEASANT FARMERS OF 5RI 3CHWYZ AND 5NTERWALDEN ON THE EASTERN SHORES OF THE LAKE HAD FORMED A PACT OF MUTUAL DEFENCE AT 2àTLI SEE BOX P AGAINST THE !USTRIAN THREAT AND AFTER SOME INSTABILITY ,UZERN JOINED THEM IN THE lRST MAJOR CITY TO DO SO 4HIS PACT WAS THE BEGINNING OF THE 3WISS #ONFEDERATION WHICH SURVIVES TODAY 0RO (ABSBURG ATTEMPTS TO UNDER MINE THE PACT CONTINUED TO mOURISH ONE LEGEND FROM THE TIME TELLS OF A BOY WHO OVERHEARD CONSPIRATORS MEETING IN THE RIVERSIDE MARKETPLACE AT 5NTER DER %GG 4HE PLOTTERS CAUGHT THE BOY AND FORCED HIM TO SWEAR UNDER OATH THAT HE WOULD TELL NO LIVING SOUL WHAT HE HAD HEARD THEM DISCUSS SO THE BOY RAN STRAIGHT TO A NEARBY GUILDHALL AND INTERRUPTED A #ONFEDERATE MEETING TO TELL HIS WHOLE STORY TO THE TILED STOVE IN THE CORNER OF THE ROOM 4HE CONFEDERATES hOVERHEARDv THE BOYS TALE AND SO WERE ABLE TO THWART THE PLOT 4HE STOVE WHICH STANDS TODAY IN THE CORNER OF THE RESTAURANT -ETZGERN ON 7EINMARKT IS ALLEGEDLY THE SELF SAME ONE 4HE DEFEAT OF !USTRIAN FORCES IN THE "ATTLE OF 3EMPACH IN SEVERED THE (ABSBURG CLAIM TO ,UZERN AND THE CITYS ELDERS REINFORCED THEIR INDEPEND ENCE BY BUILDING THE -USEGG FORTIlCATIONS WHICH ARE STILL STANDING ,UZERN REMAINED #ATHOLIC THROUGHOUT THE 2EFORMATION AND LIKE MUCH OF THE COUNTRY WAS RULED BY PATRICIAN FAMILIES UP UNTIL THE LATE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY REVOLUTIONS 4HE EARLY NINETEENTH CENTURY QUARRELS IN POLITICS AND RELIGION LED TO
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,UZERNS GIANT TRAIN STATION n OPENED IN TO REPLACE THE GRAND NINETEENTH CENTURY ORIGINAL WHICH BURNED TO THE GROUND IN ONE ARCH SURVIVES MAROONED IN FRONT OF THE NEW BUILDING n IS ON THE SOUTH BANK OF THE 2EUSS EXACTLY AT THE POINT WHERE THE LAKE NARROWS INTO THE RIVER "ROAD 0ILATUSSTRASSE RUNS SOUTHWEST FROM "AHNHOFPLATZ INTO THE MAIN SHOPPING AND COMMERCIAL DISTRICTS OF THE MODERN CITY &ROM THE BUSY BUS STOPS OUTSIDE THE STATION THE MAIN 3EEBRàCKE TAKES TRAFlC OVER THE 2EUSS ALONGSIDE THE ANCIENT +APELLBRàCKE THE LATTER MARKED BY THE DISTINCTIVE STONE 7ASSERTURM WATER TOWER 4HE PEDESTRIAN ONLY ALLEYS OF THE /LD 4OWN OCCUPY THE NORTHERN BANK WITH THE CITY WALLS RANGED ON THE SLOPES ABOVE AS WELL AS A SMALL PART OF THE SOUTHERN BANK
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! SHORT STROLL WEST FROM 7EINMARKT ALONG RIVERSIDE 3T +ARLIQUAI PAST THE SOPHIS TICATED LOOKING HYDROELECTRIC TURBINES ON THE 2EUSS WHICH HAVE HAD TEETHING PROBLEMS SINCE THEY WERE INSTALLED AND STILL REGULARLY CLOG UP WITH SILT BRINGS YOU TO THE .ÚLLITURM A FORTIlED GATE MARKING THE SOUTHWESTERN EXTENT OF A LENGTHY STRETCH OF THE SURVIVING FOURTEENTH CENTURY TOWN WALLS 0ASS THROUGH THE GATE AND HEAD RIGHT UP THE HILL TO GAIN ACCESS TO THE -USEGG BATTLEMENTS %ASTERn3EPT DAILY AMnPM AND THEIR IMPRESSIVE VIEWS 4HIS IS AN ODDLY RUSTIC CORNER OF ,UZERN CUT OFF FROM THE CITY BEHIND THE WALLS AND YOU MAY COME ACROSS A COW OR TWO QUIETLY GRAZING BACK HERE RESIDENT OF A PART TIME URBAN FARM 3TAIRS RISE TO THE TOP OF BOTH THE -ËNNLITURM AND FURTHER ALONG THE ,UEGISLAND 4URM BUT THE BATTLEMENTS WALK PROPER STARTS AT THE 7ACHTTURM &ROM HERE YOU CAN FOLLOW THE PARAPETS ALONG TO THE :YTTURM WITH THE OLDEST CLOCK IN ,UZERN GRANTED THE HONOUR OF CHIMING ONE MINUTE BEFORE ALL THE OTHERS IN THE TOWN 4HE BIZARRELY UGLY STATUE DOWN BELOW IS 5RWEIB BY LOCAL ARTIST 2UDOLF "LËTTER SUCH AN UNPOPULAR ADDITION THAT THE MUNICIPALITY HAD TO UNVEIL IT IN SECRET ONE EVENING A FEW YEARS BACK 4HE ROOFTOP WALK CONTINUES TO THE ADJACENT 3CHIRMERTURM GUTTED BY AN ARSONIST IN AND STILL BEAR ING SMOKE BLACKENED STONES 4HIS IS WHERE THE BATTLEMENTS WALK RUNS OUT BUT YOU CAN DESCEND TO FOLLOW THE ROAD THROUGH THE 3CHIRMERTURM GATE AND DOWN TRANQUIL -USEGGSTRASSE THROUGH ANOTHER BREACH IN THE OLD WALL TO THE TRAFlC CHOKED ,ÚWENPLATZ -ÚXFOQMBU[BOEBSPVOE
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"USY ,ÚWENSTRASSE RUNS SOUTH FROM ,ÚWENPLATZ TO THE RIVERSIDE JUST BEFORE YOU REACH THE 3CHWEIZERHOFQUAI THE ARROW STRAIGHT 3T ,EODEGARSTRASSE CUTS EAST TO BROAD STEPS LEADING UP TO THE (OFKIRCHE 3ATn4HURS AMnNOON nPM 4HIS GRAND STRUCTURE SITS ON THE SITE OF THE lRST MONASTERY OF ,UZERN WHICH DATED FROM THE MID EIGHTH CENTURY AND WAS DEDICATED TO 3T ,EODEGAR 3T ,EGER 4HE 2OMANESQUE CHURCH WHICH REPLACED THE MONASTERY IN THE LATE TWELFTH CENTURY WAS BURNED TO THE GROUND ON %ASTER 3UNDAY THE BLAZE REPUTEDLY SPARKED BY THE VERGERS CARELESS SHOOTING AT BIRDS /NLY ITS TWIN TOWERS ESCAPED AND THEY SURVIVE TODAY EITHER SIDE OF A BIZARRELY INCONGRUOUS 2ENAISSANCE GABLE 4HE IMPRESSIVE MAIN DOORS ARE CARVED WITH THE TWO PATRON SAINTS OF ,UZERN ON THE LEFT IS 3T ,EGER A &RENCH BISHOP WHO WAS BLINDED WITH A DRILL WHICH HE IS HOLDING AND ON THE RIGHT IS 3T -AURICE A MARTYRED 2OMAN SOLDIER SAINT 4HE INTERIOR DESIGN AND FURNITURE ARE ALMOST WHOLLY ORIGINAL 2ENAISSANCE FROM THE S AND S A UNITY RARELY FOUND IN 3WISS OR %UROPEAN CHURCHES MOST OF WHICH UNDERWENT "AROQUE RENOVATION AND EMBELLISHMENT /N THE RIGHT ELABORATE PEWS DIVIDED INTO INDIVIDUAL SEATS WERE RESERVED FOR CITY COUNCILLORS PLAINER PEWS ON THE LEFT WERE FOR THE RANK AND lLE "EYOND THE EXCEPTIONALLY lNE CHOIR SCREEN n ONE OF THE EARLIEST EXAMPLES OF STRONG THREE DIMENSIONAL PERSPECTIVE USED TO DRAW THE CONGREGATIONS ATTENTION FORWARD n IS THE HIGH ALTAR IN BLACK MARBLE mANKED BY STATUES OF THE TWO PATRON SAINTS !BOVE THE )TALIANATE DEPICTION OF THE !GONY AT 'ETHSEMANE IS A HALF LENGTH lGURE OF 'OD 4HE CARVED CHOIR STALLS AS WELL AS THE BEAUTIFUL PULPIT ARE THE WORK OF .IKLAUS 'EISSLER !GAINST THE NORTH WALL LEFT IS THE LAVISH $EATH OF THE 6IRGIN ALTAR SHOWING -ARY ON A BED SURROUNDED BY DISCIPLES DATING FROM AROUND THIS WAS THE ONLY RELIC TO SURVIVE THE lRE 4HE MIGHTY ORGAN BEDECKED IN ORNAMENT FEATURES PIPES ALONG WITH A MACHINE TO MIMIC THE SOUND OF RAIN AND A SPECIAL REGISTER FOR THUNDER AND HAIL 4HE CHURCH IS SET AMIDST A LOVELY )TALIANATE CLOISTER LINED WITH THE GRAVES OF ,UZERNER PATRICIAN FAMILIES WHO CONTINUE TO BE BURIED HERE TO THIS DAY /LD HOUSES ALL AROUND THE CHURCH STILL SERVE AS THE HOMES FOR CANONS OF THE PARISH *UST WEST OF THE CHURCH IS THE ANCIENT 2OTHENBURGERHAUS A TEETERING PILE THATS HELD TO BE ONE OF THE OLDEST WOODEN TOWN HOUSES IN THE COUNTRY DATING FROM ABOUT /N THE SLOPES NORTH OF THE CHURCH IS THE OLD CEMETERY NOW A PUBLIC PARK WHILE ABOUT M FURTHER NORTH ON THE HILLTOP IS THE #APUCHIN MONASTERY OF 7ESEMLIN FOUNDED IN AND STILL FUNCTIONING AS THE PRINCIPAL SEAT OF THE ORDER IN 3WITZERLAND 5IFTPVUICBOL
4HE /LD 4OWN EXTENDS TO THE SOUTH BANK OF THE 2EUSS COMPRISING A TRIAN GULAR AREA KNOWN AS THE +LEINSTADT ORIGINALLY WALLED &ACING 5NTER DER %GG IS THE HUGE *ESUITENKIRCHE DOMINATING THE RIVERSIDE WITH ITS TWIN ONION DOMED
TOWERS #OMPLETED IN ITS ASTONISHING INTERIOR IS A FROTHY 2OCOCO CONCOC TION OF GILT STUCCO AND MARBLE !MONG THE PROFUSION OF FRESCOES IS ONE ON THE CEILING THAT INTRIGUINGLY DEPICTS THE CHURCH EXTERIOR AS IT WAS YEARS AGO ! FEW STEPS WEST IS THE 2ITTERSCHE PALACE BUILT IN IN &LORENTINE 2ENAISSANCE STYLE AS A PRIVATE MANSION BUT NOW THE SEAT OF ,UZERNS CANTONAL GOVERNMENT "EHIND IT TO THE SOUTH IS THE &RANZISKANERKIRCHE THE OLDEST BUILDING IN ,UZERN DATING FROM THOUGH MUCH RESTORED )TS UNUSU ALLY RICHLY DECORATED FOR A &RANCISCAN CHURCH WITH 2ENAISSANCE CHOIR STALLS AND BATTLE STANDARDS LINING THE WALLS n COPIES OF THOSE LOOTED FROM BATTLElELDS THROUGH THE CENTURIES ! "AROQUE SIDE CHAPEL IS DECORATED WITH )TALIANATE STUCCO AND A HOST OF KITSCHY CURLY HAIRED ANGELS #ONTINUING WEST PEACEFUL 0lSTERGASSE CURVES TO MEET THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE 3PREUERBRàCKE WHERE YOULL SPOT THE STOUT SIXTEENTH CENTURY TOWN ARSENAL NOW HOME TO THE (ISTORISCHES -USEUM 4UESn3UN AMnPM &R 3-0 WWWHMLUZERNCH lLLED WITH ARMS AND ARMOUR RESTORED INTERIORS COSTUMES AND CRAFTS TELLING THE HISTORY OF ,UZERN - 6; & 3/"/%; & /53" - 4 $ ) 8 & * ;
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4BNNMVOH3PTFOHBSU "USY TRAFlC HEAVY 0ILATUSSTRASSE LINED WITH SHOPS CAFÏS AND BANKS STORMS SOUTHWEST FROM THE STATION DElNING THE LIMITS OF THE /LD 4OWN !BOUT M ALONG AND THE SAME DISTANCE SOUTH OF THE +APELLBRàCKE IS A SOLID .EOCLASSICAL BUILDING FROM n FORMERLY THE ,UZERN HEADQUARTERS OF THE 3WISS .ATIONAL "ANK AND NOW RENOVATED TO HOUSE THE OUTSTANDING 3AMMLUNG 2OSENGART 2OSENGART #OLLECTION DAILY !PRILn/CT AMnPM .OVn-ARCH AMnPM &R JOINT TICKET WITH 0ICASSO -USEUM &R WWWROSENGARTCH !RT DEALERS 3IEGFRIED 2OSENGART AND HIS DAUGHTER !NGELA n THE LATTER BORN IN ,UZERN IN AND STILL A RESIDENT n BUILT UP OVER FORTY YEARS A COLLECTION OF MORE THAN
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/N A PLUM WATERFRONT SITE BESIDE THE STATION AND ALONGSIDE THE QUAYS STANDS ,UZERNS PRIDE AND JOY THE MULTIFUNCTIONAL +ULTUR UND +ONGRESSZENTRUM ,UZERN KNOWN AS THE ++, PRONOUNCED hKAKA ELv WWWKKL LUZERNCH 7ITHIN SUCH A TRADITIONAL LOOKING AND THINKING CITY *EAN .OUVELS LANDMARK ARCHI TECTURE IN GLASS AND STEEL IS A REVELATION 2EmECTING POOLS ALL AROUND DRAW THE LAKE INTO THE BUILDING AS AN IMMENSE CANTILEVERED ROOF mOATS HIGH ABOVE 4HE ATMOSPHERE OF THE PLACE CHANGES ACCORDING TO THE WEATHER CONDITIONS STANDING ON THE LAKESIDE APRON DURING A STORM n EXPOSED YET PROTECTED BY THE ROOF n IS QUITE AN EXPERIENCE 0ARTS OF THE BUILDING MAY BE TAKEN UP WITH CONFERENCES WHEN YOU VISIT AND THE CONCERT HALLS ARE OFF LIMITS BUT THERES NOTHING TO STOP YOU EXPLORING THE PUBLIC AREAS WHICH ARE WELL SIGNED /N THE STATION SIDE RISES A HUGE GLAZED BLOCK FENCED IN BY AN ALL ENVELOPING STEEL CAGE AND PENETRATING DEEP BENEATH THE DARK ROOF THIS IS THE +ONGRESSZEN TRUM WING WITH A BISTRO AT GROUND LEVEL AND THE +UNSTMUSEUM ON THE TOP mOOR "ESIDE IT AT THE CENTRE OF THE COMPLEX IS THE ,UZERNERSAAL A SMALL HALL USED FOR CONCERTS OR MEETINGS WITH A DRINKS TERRACE ATOP ITS FOYER 4HE EASTERLY THIRD OF THE COMPLEX IS THE +ONZERTSAAL ONE OF THE WORLDS MOST ACOUSTI CALLY ADVANCED CONCERT HALLS AND THE PRINCIPAL VENUE FOR THE ,UCERNE &ESTIVAL !DJOINING IT AT GROUND LEVEL IS THE TRENDY 3EEBAR /N THE TOP mOOR OF THE ++,S +ONGRESSZENTRUM WING n FROM THE TRAIN STATION TAKE THE EXIT BY PLATFORM AND CROSS THE STREET n IS THE +UNSTMUSEUM 4UESn3UN AMnPM 7ED UNTIL PM LONGER HOURS IN !UG 3EPT DURING ,UCERNE &ESTIVAL &R WWWKUNSTMUSEUMLUZERNCH ,IFTS TAKE YOU UP TO THE TICKET DESK PRESS BUTTON h+v 4HE PERMANENT COLLECTION n LESS THAN STUNNING CANVASES BY 3WISS ARTISTS OF THE NINETEENTH AND EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURY DISPLAYED IN THE lRST HALF DOZEN ROOMS n IS OVERSHADOWED BOTH BY THE GROUND BREAKING EXHIBITIONS OF AVANT GARDE CONTEMPORARY ART HELD IN THE DOZEN OR SO ROOMS BEYOND AND BY THE BREATHTAKING ARCHITECTURE MORE THAN ONCE YOU CROSS
- 6; & 3/"/%; & /53" - 4 $ ) 8 & * ;
KEY TWENTIETH CENTURY WORKS ! SMALL NUMBER OF 0ICASSOS DONATED BY THE 2OSENGARTS FORM THE BASIS OF ,UZERNS SEPARATE 0ICASSO -USEUM SEE P 4HE GROUND mOOR IS DEVOTED TO A MAGNIlCENT OVERVIEW OF 0ICASSOS ART FROM EARLY PAINTINGS n INCLUDING A STATUESQUE 0ORTRAIT !LICE $ERAIN DATED WHEN 0ICASSO WAS n THROUGH TO WORKS FULL OF LIGHT AND SPACE PAINTED IN #ANNES IN THE MID S AND lVE EXUBERANT CANVASES DATED n A FEW YEARS BEFORE THE ARTISTS DEATH 4HE BASEMENT HOLDS ONE OF THE BROADEST COLLECTIONS OF WORKS BY 0AUL +LEE IN PRIVATE HANDS A SEAMLESS CHRONOLOGICAL RECORD SHOWING THE DEVELOPMENT OF +LEES mUENT AND COMPELLING FANTASY WORLD )N THE lRST ROOM n AHEAD AT THE BOTTOM OF THE STAIRS n +LEES VISIT TO 4UNISIA IS REmECTED IN A NUMBER OF COLOURFUL .ORTH !FRICAN LANDSCAPES AND THE MANY WORKS WITH !RAB AND *EWISH ELEMENTS (IS EXPRESSIVE IMAGINATION TAKES HOLD IN THE SECOND ROOM WHICH INCLUDES THE UNSET TLING )RONIC &AIRYTALE FEATURING TWO JESTERS ON THE EDGE OF A NEBULOUS WOOD BENEATH A FURIOUS MOON /NE OF THE MOST CHARACTERISTIC AND MEMORABLE SKETCHES IS ,ITTLE 8 IN THE THIRD ROOM n A DOZEN SIMPLE BRUSHSTROKES THAT CREATE A UNIVERSE OF CHILDHOOD EXPERIENCE LOST IN A BIGGER MORE SERIOUS ADULT WORLD 4HE UPPER mOOR FEATURES A CREATIVELY ASSEMBLED ARRAY OF )MPRESSIONIST AND -ODERNIST WORKS AMONGST THEM A ROOM OF #HAGALLS n INCLUDING .IGHT AT THE 7INDOW A DISTINCTIVE SCENE OF BLISSFUL LOVERS LOOKING OUT OVER A SLEEPING TOWN n TWO lNE -ONETS AND WORKS BY 2ENOIR -ODIGLIANI +ANDINSKY -ATISSE AND OTHERS
BETWEEN GALLERIES ON SLENDER CATWALKS HIGH UP IN THE BUILDINGS INTERIOR BATHED IN NATURAL AND ARTIlCIAL LIGHT WITH THE REmECTING POOLS FAR BELOW
0VUPGUIFDFOUSF !LTHOUGH MANY OF ,UZERNS SIGHTS ARE PACKED CLOSE TOGETHER IN THE CITY CENTRE THERE ARE A FEW INCENTIVES TO VENTURE FURTHER AlELD &ACING EACH OTHER ACROSS THE LAKE ROUGHLY KM OUT OF THE CENTRE ARE THE 6ERKEHRSHAUS 4RANSPORT -USEUM ON THE NORTHERN SHORE AND THE 2ICHARD 7AGNER MUSEUM THE COMPOSERS FORMER HOME ON THE SOUTHERN SHORE "USES RUN CLOSE TO BOTH BUT THE WAY TO GET THERE IN STYLE IS BY BOAT 5IF7FSLFISTIBVT
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/NE OF THE MAIN DRAWS OF ,UZERN IS THE 6ERKEHRSHAUS KM EAST OF THE CENTRE AT ,IDOSTRASSE 4RANSPORT -USEUM DAILY AMnPM .OVn-ARCH CLOSES PM &R JOINT TICKET INCLUDING ONE )-!8 lLM &R DISCOUNTS AVAILABLE FOR FAMI LIES AND RAIL PASS HOLDERS 3-0 WWWVERKEHRSHAUSORG )F YOURE NOT ARRIVING BY BOAT HOP ON BUS OR OR TAKE THE PLEASANT TWENTY MINUTE STROLL AROUND THE LAKESHORE 4HIS VAST COMPLEX IS DEVOTED TO 3WISS ENGINEERING SKILL AND COULD KEEP YOU AMUSED ALL DAY YOULL NEED THE FREE PLAN TO NAVIGATE YOUR WAY AROUND )TS DIVIDED INTO SEVERAL LARGE AREAS TAKING IN 2OAD 4RANSPORT 2AIL 4RANSPORT !VIATION AND 3PACE 4RAVEL #ABLEWAYS AND 4OURISM AND SO ON %VERYTHING IS IN %NGLISH AND hHANDS ONv IS A RULE NOT AN EXCEPTION 0ARTICULAR HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDE THE TRAIN SECTION WITH DOZENS OF GIANT LOCOMOTIVES ON DISPLAY COMPLETE WITH EVOCATIVE OILY SMELL AND A WELL PRESENTED WALK THROUGH ACCOUNT OF THE DIGGING OF THE 'OTTHARD TUNNEL DRAMATIZED WITH SLIDES AND SOUNDTRACK 4HE AIRPLANE SECTION HAS mIGHT SIMULATORS A MOCK UP OF AN AIRPORT CONTROL TOWER AND THE #OSMORAMA AN INTERACTIVE TOUR OF THE ASTEROID BELT 4HE TOURISM BIT HAS THE 3WISSARENA A COMPOSITE AERIAL PHOTOGRAPH OF THE ENTIRE COUNTRY COVER ING THE mOOR OF A SQUARE METRE HALL 4HERES ALSO A HUGE SECTION DEVOTED TO COMMUNICATIONS AN EXCELLENT 0LANETARIUM AND A SEPARATE GIANT BUILDING HOUSING AN )-!8 CINEMA REGULAR SHOWINGS THROUGHOUT THE DAY FOR AN EXTRA &R WWWIMAXCH 5IF)BOT&SOJ.VTFVN
)N AN ENTIRELY DIFFERENT VEIN A FAR mUNG BUILDING ON THE EDGE OF THE 6ERKEHR SHAUS SITE n REGRETTABLY OVERLOOKED BY MOST VISITORS n HOUSES A lNE MUSEUM DEDICATED TO THE ,UZERNER ARTIST (ANS %RNI SAME HOURS AS 6ERKEHRSHAUS ADMIS SION INCLUDED WITH 6ERKEHRSHAUS TICKET OR &R FOR (ANS %RNI -USEUM ONLY WWWHANSERNICH %RNI BORN IN HAS SPENT HIS LONG CAREER PRODUCING ART THAT IS WONDERFULLY WARM AND HUMAN FULL OF mUIDITY OF lGURES AND GEOMETRIES THAT THE MUSEUM BLURB WILL TRY TO CONVINCE YOU IS LINKED IN SOME SPIRITUAL WAY TO THE SCIENTIlC PROWESS ON DISPLAY THROUGHOUT THE REST OF THE COMPLEX HOWEVER HIS CONCERN FOR HUMAN DIGNITY IN THE FACE OF MODERN TECHNOLOGY STANDS MORE AS A HEALTHY COUNTERPOINT TO ALL THOSE DISPLAYS OF ENGINEERING SKILL %RNI IS NOT WELL KNOWN OUTSIDE 3WITZERLAND BUT THIS MUSEUM n DISPLAYING WORKS n MERITS A SPECIAL VISIT 0ARTICULARLY OUTSTANDING ARE %RNIS LITHOGRAPHS MADE AS ILLUSTRATIONS FOR LIMITED EDITION BOOKS 5IF3JDIBSE8BHOFSNVTFVN
3OUTHEAST OF THE CITY CENTRE IN AN IDYLLIC LOCATION ON A HEADLAND NAMED 4RIB SCHEN IS A VILLA THAT WAS 2ICHARD 7AGNERS HOME FROM TO AND IS
NOW A MUSEUM TO HIM -ARCHn.OV 4UESn3UN AMnNOON nPM &R 3-0 BOAT TO 4RIBSCHEN BUS OR TO 7ARTEGG THEN MIN WALK OR MIN WALK FROM STATION WWWRICHARD WAGNER MUSEUMCH !FTER MANY VISITS TO 3WITZERLAND THE COMPOSER AND HIS PARTNER #OSIMA n &RANZ ,ISZTS DAUGHTER WHO WAS STILL LEGALLY MARRIED TO THE PIANIST AND CONDUCTOR (ANS VON "àLOW n SPOTTED THE DERELICT 4RIBSCHEN VILLA IN EARLY MADE ARRANGEMENTS TO RENT IT FOR AN EXTENDED PERIOD AND MOVED IN ON !PRIL h.OBODY WILL GET ME OUT OF HERE AGAIN v 7AGNER SAID AND ITS GENERALLY AGREED THAT THIS WAS THE HAPPIEST AND MOST PRODUCTIVE TIME OF HIS LIFE NOT LEAST BECAUSE #OSIMAS LONG DEAD MARRIAGE WAS lNALLY DISSOLVED IN AND THE COUPLE WERE ABLE TO MARRY 4HE TRANQUILLITY OF THE LAKESIDE HOUSE IS STILL TANGIBLE TODAY AS YOU WANDER THROUGH THE ROOMS LAID OUT WITH 7AGNERIANA OF ALL KINDS n LETTERS PICTURES ORIGINAL FURNITURE INSTRUMENTS AND EVEN HIS DEATH MASK n WITH 7AGNER COMPO SITIONS PLAYING IN THE BACKGROUND
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,UZERN HAS A lNE RANGE OF EATING AND DRINKING VENUES COVERING ALL BUDGETS THE CROWDED GENERIC PLACES THAT ARE IN PLAIN VIEW TEND TO BE LEAST INTERESTING BUT A SMALL AMOUNT OF BACKSTREET SEARCHING WILL TURN UP PLENTY OF MORE REWARD ING OPTIONS ,OCAL SPECIALITIES TO KEEP AN EYE OUT FOR ARE LED BY THE CELEBRATED ,UZERNER +àGELIPASTETE n SPELLED BY MANY /LD 4OWN RESTAURANT MENUS IN DIALECT ALONG THE LINES OF ,OZËRNER #HÚGALIPASCHTETLI ALSO OFTEN PRElXED BY ËCHTI hAUTHENTICv 4HIS STOMACH LINING DISH IS A GLORIlED VOL AU VENT A LARGE PUFF PASTRY SHELL lLLED WITH A SUPER RICH CONCOCTION OF DICED VEAL AND MUSHROOMS IN A CREAMY SAUCE VEGGIE VERSIONS OMITTING THE VEAL ARENT HARD TO lND /THERWISE lSH IS THE THING IN ENDLESS VARIETIES YOULL SEE &ORELLEN TROUT %GLI PERCH &ELCHEN A KIND OF WHITE lSH AND (ECHT PIKE ON MOST MENUS VIRTUALLY ALL OF IT PLUCKED FRESH FROM THE LAKE 7ASH IT ALL DOWN EITHER WITH A +AFFEE FERTIG A COFFEE LACED WITH 3CHNAPPS OR A +Al ,UZ TRADITIONALLY SEEN IN #ANTON ,UZERN OUTSIDE THE CITY BUT NOWADAYS EASY TO lND IN THE /LD 4OWN CAFÏS 4HE RIGHT WAY TO MAKE ONE IS TO PUT A lVE FRANC COIN IN A VASE SHAPED GLASS POUR HOT COFFEE IN UNTIL YOU CANT SEE THE COIN THEN ADD 3CHNAPPS UNTIL THE COIN BECOMES VISIBLE AGAIN 3TIR IN TWO LARGE SPOONS OF SUGAR AND YOU HAVE THE PERFECT FARMERS PICK ME UP
- 6; & 3/"/%; & /53" - 4 $ ) 8 & * ;
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- 6; & 3/"/%; & /53" - 4 $ ) 8 & * ;
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4HE TITANIC CHUNK OF THE 2IGI WWWRIGICH WHICH RISES TO M BETWEEN THE LAKES OF ,UZERN AND :UG HAS LONG BEEN FAMOUS AS A MAJESTIC VIEWPOINT "Y ITSELF ITS ACTUALLY RATHER SCRUBBY A STEEP SCARPED GRASSY RIDGE WITH SEVERAL SUMMITS BUT IT STANDS ALONE DIVIDING THE TWO LAKES AND OFFERS WONDERFUL VIEWS SOUTH TO THE !LPS 4HERE ARE SEVERAL TRANSPORT OPTIONS UP THE MOUNTAIN TESTIFYING TO THE SCRAMBLE IN THE LATE NINETEENTH CENTURY TO CAPITALIZE ON BURGEONING TOURISM TO ,UZERN 2IVAL COMPANIES STARTED LAYING TRACK FROM 6ITZNAU ON ,AKE ,UZERN AND !RTH 'OLDAU JUST SOUTH OF THE :UGERSEE COMPETING FOR WHO WOULD BE lRST TO REACH THE SUMMIT 4HE 6ITZNAU LINE n WITH THE BONUS OF ITS ACCESSIBILITY FROM ,UZERN BY BOAT n WON OUT BUT !RTH 'OLDAU BENElTS FROM BEING A MAJOR JUNCTION POINT ON THE :àRICHn 'OTTHARD MAINLINE TRAIN ROUTE 2ED TRAINS FROM 6ITZNAU AND BLUE ONES FROM 'OLDAU CONVERGE AT 3TAFFEL NEAR THE SUMMIT FOR THE lNAL PULL TO 2IGI +ULM AT THE VERY TOP ! THIRD ROUTE UP THE MOUNTAIN A CABLE CAR FROM PICTURESQUE 7EGGIS ALSO ON ,AKE ,UZERN RISES TO CONNECT WITH THE 6ITZNAU TRAINS AT AN INTERMEDIATE STOP NAMED 2IGI +ALTBAD 4HE POPULAR METHOD IS TO GO UP BY ONE ROUTE AND DOWN BY ANOTHER )TS EASY TO MAKE THE 2IGI A DAY TRIP FROM ,UZERN OR YOU COULD JUST AS EASILY SPEND A NIGHT ON THE SUMMIT TO ENJOY THE SUNRISE OVER THE !LPS )F YOURE SET ON HIKING TO THE SUMMIT RECKON ON FOUR HOURS FOR THE TREK UP FROM 7EGGIS
8FHHJT /N A SHELTERED SOUTH FACING BAY PROTECTED FROM COLD NORTHERLY WEATHER BY THE 2IGI ITSELF 7%'')3 BASKS IN ITS OWN SUBTROPICAL MICROCLIMATE n THE PALM TREES lGS AND MAGNOLIAS GROW NATURALLY )T LOOKS OUT OVER THE LAKE AND ACROSS TO THE "àRGENSTOCK CLIFFS AND HAS BEEN A POPULAR SUMMER RESORT FOR A COUPLE OF CENTURIES WITH A DEDICATED OLDER CLIENTELE RETURNING YEAR AFTER YEAR TO SOAK UP THE SUN 4HE TOURIST OFlCE FOR 7EGGIS THE 2IGI REGION AND THE WHOLE NORTH SHORE OF THE LAKE IS RIGHT BESIDE THE BOAT STATION AT 3EESTRASSE -AYn3EPT -ONn&RI AMn PM 3AT 3UN AMnPM /CTn!PRIL -ONn&RI AMnPM WWWWEGGISCH 4HERES NO SHORTAGE OF ACCOMMODATION ,EAST PRICEY IS THE WELL KEPT "UDGET (OTEL IN A RESIDENTIAL DISTRICT A STIFF WALK UPHILL AND WEST FROM THE BOAT STATION WWWBUDGETHOTELCH ! COUPLE OF MINUTES EAST OF THE LANDING STAGE IS THE 3EEHOF (OTEL DU ,AC WWW HOTEL DU LACCH n CLOSED .OV $EC A CHARMING QUIET FAMILY RUN PLACE OF SOME QUALITY n ITS WORTH SPLASHING OUT FOR THE LAKEVIEW ROOMS WITH BALCONY *UST BESIDE IT IS THE CLASSY "EAU 2IVAGE WWWBEAURIVAGE WEGGIS CH n !PRILn/CT WITH PLENTY OF CREATURE COMFORTS IN THE ROOMS AND AN ENCLOSED LAKESIDE LAWN FOR SUNNY LOUNGING 4HE CABLE CAR STATION FOR 2IGI +ALTBAD IS NORTHEAST OF THE LANDING STAGE WELL SIGNPOSTED
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4HERE ARE HIKING ROUTES ALL OVER THE 2IGI MOST STARTING FROM 2IGI +ALTBAD M OR 2IGI +LÚSTERLI M THE lRST ACCESSIBLE FROM BOTH 7EGGIS AND 6ITZNAU THE SECOND A MIDWAY STOP ON THE !RTH 'OLDAU TRAIN LINE +ALTBAD IS A PEACEFUL TRAFlC FREE RESORT ON A TERRACE OF PASTURELAND HIGH ABOVE 7EGGIS THERES A HANDFUL OF HOTELS HERE AS WELL AS RELATIVELY EASY TWO OR THREE HOUR HIKING ROUTES THROUGH THE PINE TREES OUT TO THE +ËNZELI VIEWPOINT UP ONTO THE RIDGE AT &IRST OR TO THE 2OTSTOCK PEAK ABOVE +ALTBAD M 2ED TRAINS FROM 6ITZNAU AND BLUE ONES FROM !RTH 'OLDAU MEET AT 3TAFFEL FOR THE lNAL STRETCH TO 2IGI +ULM HOME OF THE (OTEL 2IGI +ULM WWWRIGIKULM CH n CLOSED /CT .OV A BALD S CREATION REPLACING EARLIER INCARNA TIONS DATING BACK MORE THAN A HUNDRED YEARS )TS A RATHER DULL PLACE IN ITSELF BUT HAS THE INCOMPARABLE SELLING POINT OF OFFERING A SUPERB SUNRISE OVER THE !LPS 4HE SUMMIT IS A M STROLL FROM THE HOTEL AND GIVES BIRDS EYE VIEWS OVER ,UZERN AND THE 6IERWALDSTËTTERSEE ON ONE SIDE AND :UG AND THE :UGERSEE ON THE OTHER
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TO THE 2IGI +ULM 7HEREAS 7EGGIS CAN SEEM A TRImE TWEE OR OVER PRETTY TRAN QUIL 6ITZNAU n SET IN A SHELTERED WEST FACING BAY CLOSE TO THE NARROWEST STRAIT OF THE LAKE n HAS PLENTY OF CHARACTER DESPITE THE HORDES OF DAY TRIPPERS IN THE VILLAGE CENTRE 4HE TRAIN STATION FOR THE 2IGI IS RIGHT OPPOSITE THE BOAT STATION WITH THE TOURIST OFlCE BESIDE IT %ASTERn/CT -ONn&RI AMnPM nPM 3AT AMnNOON *ULY !UG ALSO 3UN AMnNOON .OVn%ASTER -ON &RI AMnNOON nPM WWWVITZNAUCH 4HE CHEAPEST ACCOMMODATION IS THE 3CHIFF M WEST OF THE CENTRE IN A QUIET LOCATION WWWSCHIFF VITZNAUCH CLOSED .OV WITH SIX OLD STYLE ROOMS ABOVE THE MOST PLEASANT OF LAKESIDE RESTAURANTS ! FEW HUNDRED METRES BEYOND IS 6ITZNAUS EXTRAORDINARY 0ARK (OTEL WWW PARKHOTEL VITZNAUCH A PALATIAL "ELLE %POQUE VISION WITH VAST ROOMS TWO GOURMET RESTAURANTS SAUNA TENNIS COURTS AND MORE )N THE VILLAGE ITSELF THE 2IGI WWWRIGI VITZNAUCH IS AN ATTRACTIVE SHUTTERED OLD HOUSE WITH RENOVATED ROOMS ,ESS THAN TWO HOURS WALK EAST FROM 6ITZNAU IS TINY '%23!5 A PATCH OF SLOPING MEADOW THAT WAS FROM UNTIL THE &RENCH INVASION OF THE SMALLEST INDEPENDENT FREE REPUBLIC IN %UROPE WITH ALL OF TWO THOUSAND INHABITANTS -IDWAY BETWEEN 'ERSAU AND 6ITZNAU THERES A HANDY () HOSTEL *UGENDHERBERGE 2OTSCHUO WWWYOUTHHOSTELCH DORMS &R -ARCHn.OV (OURLY BUSES CONNECT 7EGGIS 6ITZNAU AND 'ERSAU WHILE DIFFERENT BUSES RUN FROM 'ERSAU ON TO "RUNNEN AND 3CHWYZ
;VH 4HE TOWN OF :5' PRONOUNCED TSOOGK KM FROM ,UZERN ON THE NORTH SIDE OF THE 2IGI IS THE RICHEST PLACE IN 3WITZERLAND WHICH MAKES IT VERY RICH INDEED 4INY #ANTON :UG HAS SOME OF THE LOWEST TAX RATES IN THE COUNTRY n ABOUT HALF THE NATIONAL AVERAGE n WHICH ATTRACTS mOCKS OF MULTINATIONAL CORPORATIONS THIS IN TURN PUSHES AVERAGE PER CAPITA NET INCOME UP TO AN INCREDIBLE &R a A YEAR :UGS MODERN BUSINESS DRIVEN EXISTENCE PROCEEDS WITHOUT POMP AMIDST THE GLITTERING OFlCES AND MALLS OF THE NEW TOWN A WORLD AWAY FROM THE PICTURESQUE MEDIEVAL CHURCHES AND COBBLED WATERFRONT LANES OF THE COMPACT /LD 4OWN ADJACENT 4HE TOWNS LOCATION ON THE CRYSTAL BLUE :UGERSEE
IS VERY ATTRACTIVE FRAMED BY THE HIGH WOODED PLATEAU OF THE :UGERBERG RISING M TO THE EAST AND THE PEAK OF THE 2IGI SEE ABOVE ON ITS SOUTHWEST SHORES
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4HE ULTRA MODERN STATION n WITH LIGHT INSTALLATIONS BY ARTIST *AMES 4URRELL n IS ABOUT M NORTH OF THE LAKESHORE AND THE SAME AMOUNT AGAIN NORTH OF THE /LD 4OWN WHICH RANGES DOWN THE EASTERN SHORE OF THE LAKE :UG IS A RAIL JUNC TION SITUATED AT THE POINT WHERE A LINE FROM ,UZERN IN THE WEST MEETS THE MAIN NORTHnSOUTH ROUTE RUNNING FROM :àRICH VIA &LàELEN AND THE 'OTTHARD 4UNNEL TO 4ICINO 9OU EMERGE FROM THE STATION AT THE HEAD OF !LPENSTRASSE LEADING DOWN SOUTH TO THE LAKE 7ITHIN THE STATION IS THE TOURIST OFlCE -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM WWWZUG TOURISMUSCH 3': BOATS WWWZUGERSEE INFOCH TOUR THE :UGERSEE FROM THE "AHNHOF STEG AT THE FOOT OF !LPENSTRASSE CHECK THEIR POSTED TIMETABLE WHICH ALSO HAS DETAILS OF THEIR NUMEROUS EAT ABOARD TRIPS n EVERYTHING FROM WINTER BRUNCHES TO MUSIC ACCOMPANIED STARLIT DINNERS :UGS HOTELIERS n LIKE MOST BUSINESS PEOPLE IN THE CITY n FAIRLY GLOW WITH lNANCIAL HEALTH THE COMBINATION OF :UGS HIGH BUSINESS PROlLE ITS PROXIMITY TO BOTH ,UZERN AND :àRICH AND ITS CHRONIC SHORTAGE OF ACCOMMODATION MEANS THAT THEY CAN OVERCHARGE AND STILL BE REWARDED WITH ENVIABLY HIGH OCCUPANCY RATES "OOKING AHEAD IS VITAL )PUFMT
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MID THIRTEENTH CENTURY AS A WATCHTOWER IT WAS RENOVATED IN AND ENDOWED WITH A CLOCK IN 4HE SHIELDS BELOW THE CLOCK FACE ARE THOSE OF THE EIGHT 3WISS CANTONS AT THE TIME OF THE TOWERS CONSTRUCTION FROM LEFT TO RIGHT :àRICH "ERN ,UZERN 5RI 3CHWYZ 5NTERWALDEN 'LARUS AND :UG 4HERES A HOST OF TINY DETAILS ON THE TOWER INCLUDING UNDER THE ARCHWAY A BEAUTIFUL LATE 'OTHIC WAVY HAIRED ANGEL *UST ABOVE THE UPPER LEDGE YOULL SPOT A PAINTING OF A RAT MADE BY MEDIEVAL WATCHMEN AS A DEVICE TO SCARE AWAY THE RATS THAT STOLE THEIR FOOD DURING LONG NIGHTS ON DUTY /PPOSITE THE :YTTURM +OLINPLATZ FEATURES A FOUNTAIN DEDICATED TO 7OLFGANG +OLIN STANDARD BEARER OF THE 3WISS ARMY AT THEIR DEFEAT BY THE $UKE OF -ILAN (EADING BENEATH THE :YTTURM BRINGS YOU INTO THE MOST ATMOSPHERIC PART OF THE /LD 4OWN COBBLED LANES LINED WITH MEDIEVAL GABLED AND BALCONIED AND OFTEN FRESCOED HOUSES *UST BEHIND THE :YTTURM IS :UGS 2ATHAUS DATING FROM AND RETAINING MUCH OF ITS ORIGINAL WOODWORK AND A FEW STEPS NORTH IS THE WATERSIDE ,ANDSGEMEINDEPLATZ &ROM THE 2ATHAUS THE STREETS 5NTER ALTSTADT AND /BERALTSTADT BOTH LEAD SOUTH TO THE TINY ,IEBFRAUENKAPELLE DATING FROM BUT BOASTING A "AROQUE INTERIOR )F YOU FOLLOW THE ALLEYS UPHILL FROM THE CHAPEL AND CROSS THE MAIN 'RABEN STRASSE YOULL SPOT 3T /SWALDSGASSE LEADING LEFT TO THE +IRCHE 3T /SWALD BUILT BETWEEN AND AND DEDICATED TO 3T /SWALD OF .ORTHUMBRIA n )NSIDE YOULL lND ANOTHER LAVISH "AROQUE INTERIOR AND A NINETEENTH CENTURY MURAL AS YOU LEAVE LOOK ABOVE THE DOUBLE PORTAL TO SEE A BEAUTIFUL CARVED STATUE OF -ARY mANKED BY 3T /SWALD AND 3T -ICHAEL )TS A SHORT WALK FROM HERE UP +IRCHENSTRASSE TO THE "URG A CIRCULAR TOP HEAVY CONSTRUCTION THAT WAS ONCE THE HEADQUARTERS OF THE +YBURG AND (ABSBURG GOVERNORS AND NOW HOUSES THE TOWNS MUSEUM 4UESn&RI nPM 3AT AMnNOON nPM 3UN AMnPM &R FREE ON 3UN 3-0 WWWMUSEENZUGCH WORTH A LOOK FOR ITS MODEL OF MEDIEVAL :UG ! FEW METRES FURTHER UP THE HILL IS THE +UNSTHAUS WITH USUALLY VERY GOOD TEMPORARY ART EXHIBITIONS )F YOU HEAD ALONG $ORFSTRASSE AND ACROSS THE MAIN ¯GERISTRASSE YOULL SPOT A SET OF QUIET CONCEALED STEPS LEADING UP TO THE CHAPEL OF A #APUCHIN CONVENT WITH AN ADJACENT WELL TENDED WALLED CEMETERY 4RANQUIL COVERED STEPS BRING YOU DOWN TO OPPOSITE THE OLD MINT WITH 0OSTPLATZ TO THE RIGHT
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YOURE SWITCHING FROM A BOAT TO A TRAIN OR VICE VERSA SWITCHING AT &LàELEN IS EASIER "EFORE YOU GET TO THE STATION YOULL PASS THE TOURIST OFlCE A SHORT WAY FROM THE JETTY AT "AHNHOFSTRASSE *UNEn3EPT -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM *ULY !UG ALSO 3UN AMnPM /CTn-AY -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM WWWBRUNNENTOURISMUSCH THEY CAN HELP YOU OUT WITH INFORMATION FOR THE WHOLE AREA INCLUDING 3CHWYZ WHICH ONLY HAS A TINY INFORMATION COUNTER 4OP CHOICE OF LAKEFRONT HOTELS IS 7ALDSTËTTERHOF WWW WALDSTAETTERHOFCH n AN ELEGANT lVE STAR PALACE OVERHAULED FROM TOP TO BOTTOM ,AKEFRONT "ELLEVUE WWWBELLEVUE BRUNNENCH HAS STYLISHLY MODERN ROOMS BEHIND THEIR ORNATE WROUGHT IRON BALCONIES /N THE MAIN STREET IN THE VILLAGE THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY 7EISSES 2ÚSSLI ,UDWIGS OLD HAUNT IS DUE TO REOPEN AFTER HAVING BEEN GUTTED BY lRE PREVIOUSLY ITS ROOMS n INCLUDING A SPLENDID 2OYAL #HAMBER IN "AVARIAN WHITE BLUE AND GOLD n AND ITS RESTAURANT WERE EXCELLENT -EANWHILE THE 2ÙTISSERIE IN THE 7ALDSTËTTERHOF IS THE PLACE TO GO FOR MODERATELY PRICED SEASONAL CUISINE !IM FOR THE 0ARK RESTAU RANT 'ERSAUERSTRASSE FOR EXCELLENT VEGGIE DISHES 4HERES A HANDFUL OF LIVELY CAFÏ BARS INCLUDING THE POPULAR -EZCALITO ON THE LAKEFRONT !XENSTRASSE WITH COCKTAILS AND PRICEY FOOD
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3CHWYZ IS BEST KNOWN FOR BEING THE REPOSITORY OF THE ANCIENT DOCUMENTS EMBODYING THE HISTORY OF THE #ONFEDERATION ON DISPLAY IN THE "UNDES BRIEFMUSEUM "AHNHOFSTRASSE IN THE TOWN CENTRE -USEUM OF &EDERAL #HARTERS -AYn/CT 4UESn&RI nAM nPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM .OVn!PRIL 4UESn&RI SAME HOURS 3AT 3UN nPM &R 3-0 WWW BUNDESBRIEFMUSEUMCH ! JOINT TICKET VALID FOR ALL THREE OF 3CHWYZS MUSEUMS COSTS &R 4HIS SMALL BEAUTIFULLY SIMPLE BUILDING WITH A GARDEN AND A CLOISTER OF ATTRACTIVE ARCHES HOUSES BANNERS mAGS COINS AND DOCUMENTS RECORD ING EVENTS IN 3WISS HISTORY n ASK FOR THE EXCELLENT %NGLISH NOTES AT THE DESK 4HE MAIN TREASURE IS UPSTAIRS IN A GREAT HALL LINED WITH mAGS TAKEN FROM VARIOUS BATTLElELDS OVER THE CENTURIES !T THE FAR END LYING ALONE IN ITS OWN DISPLAY CASE IS A SMALL RECTANGULAR PIECE OF PARCHMENT COVERED IN CLOSE LINES OF TEXT 4HIS IS THE ORIGINAL #HARTER OF #ONFEDERATION REPUTEDLY SIGNED AND SEALED ON THE 2àTLI MEADOW ON !UGUST THE WAX SEALS OF 5RI AND .IDWALDEN STILL DANGLE FROM IT BUT THE SEAL OF 3CHWYZ WAS LOST LONG AGO 4HE HISTORICAL THEME IS CONTINUED IN THE INVENTIVE &ORUM DER 3CHWEIZER 'ESCHICHTE &ORUM OF 3WISS (ISTORY A BRANCH OF THE 3WISS .ATIONAL -USEUM IN THE TOWN CENTRE BESIDE THE BUS STATION 4UESn3UN AMnPM &R 3-0 WWWMUSEE SUISSECOM 4HE GROUND mOOR IS DEVOTED TO INVESTIGATIONS OF HOW PEOPLE IN BOTH THE COUNTRYSIDE AND THE CITY USED ENVIRONMENTAL RESOURCES THROUGHOUT HISTORY THE MIDDLE mOOR CONCENTRATES ON SOCIAL HISTORY WITH ASSESS MENTS OF POWER STRUCTURES AND RELATIONS BETWEEN THE CHURCH AND THE STATE AND THE TOP mOOR CONCENTRATES ON WHY AND HOW 3WITZERLAND SURVIVED IN THE WAY THAT IT DID 0LENTY OF VIDEOS AND INTERACTIVE DISPLAYS KEEP YOU INTERESTED 4HE CENTRAL (AUPTPLATZ SQUARE IS A FEW STEPS EAST OF THE MUSEUM DOMINATED BY TWO GREAT BUILDINGS BOTH REBUILT AFTER A TOWN lRE IN ON A TERRACE ABOVE IS THE LARGE PARISH CHURCH OF 3T -ARTIN WITH AN ORNATE INTERIOR WHILE THE FOURSQUARE 2ATHAUS SITS ON THE SQUARE ITSELF ITS FACADE DECORATED WITH FRESCOES PAINTED IN TO CELEBRATE THE TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE 2àTLI OATH !LLEYS TO THE NORTHWEST BRING YOU TO THE )TAL 2EDING (AUS -AYn/CT 4UESn&RI nPM 3AT 3UN AMnNOON nPM &R 3-0 WWWIRHCH A SPLENDID EARLY SEVENTEENTH CENTURY MANOR HOUSE SET IN ITS OWN GARDENS AND WITH A MAGNIl CENT INTERIOR ITS UPPER ROOMS BEDECKED WITH SKILFULLY CARVED PANELLING ON WALL AND CEILING !CROSS THE GARDEN n AND WITHIN THE SAME COMPLEX n IS THE ANCIENT (AUS "ETHLEHEM THE OLDEST WOODEN HOUSE IN THE COUNTRY DATING FROM 3QUEEZING THROUGH ITS MINUSCULE ROOMS MAKES YOU FEEL A BIT LIKE !LICE 1SBDUJDBMJUJFT
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4HE MONASTERY COMPLEX WAS REBUILT FROM TO IN THE MOST LAVISH OF LATE "AROQUE STYLES !S YOU EMERGE FROM THE CLUSTER OF THE VILLAGE CENTRE THE VAST +LOSTERPLATZ OPENS OUT IN FRONT 4HE RATHER PLAIN SANDSTONE FRONT OF THE CHURCH WITH ITS TWIN TOWERS RISING FROM AN IMMENSE M LONG FACADE IS FRAMED BY UNUSUAL SEMI CIRCULAR SUNKEN ARCADES 4HE ORNATE 7ELL OF /UR ,ADY IN THE SQUARE TAPS THE WATER OF -EGINRATS SPRING n PILGRIMS TRADITIONALLY DRINK FROM EACH OF THE SPOUTS IN TURN ON THEIR APPROACH TO THE CHURCH 4HE INTERIOR DESIGNED BY +ASPAR -OOSBRUGGER ONE OF THE MONKS IS BREATH TAKING ALTHOUGH WITH THE REGULAR CYCLE OF SERVICES CONTINUING DAILY YOU MAY NOT GET A CHANCE TO WANDER ROUND ADMIRING IT 4HE NAVE IS DECORATED WITH DETAILED FRESCOES BY #OSMAS $AMIAN !SAM AND EVERY PART OF THE LOFTY WHITE INTERIOR IS DETAILED IN LAVISH GOLD !N INTRICATE WROUGHT IRON CHOIR SCREEN GIVES INTO THE STUNNING PINK 2OCOCO CHOIR ITS CEILING BEDECKED WITH ANIMATED SCULPTURES OF ANGELS (OWEVER THE FOCUS OF ALL THE PILGRIMS ATTENTION IS THE BLACK MARBLE #HAPEL OF /UR ,ADY POSITIONED IN A HUGE OCTAGONAL BAY JUST INSIDE THE MAIN PORTAL 4HE INVADING &RENCH DESTROYED THE CHAPEL IN ALTHOUGH THE MONKS HAD ALREADY REMOVED THE "LACK -ADONNA TO THE 4YROL FOR SAFEKEEPING AND THE PRESENT CHAPEL BUILDING DATES FROM A .EOCLASSICAL RECONSTRUCTION IN 4HE "LACK -ADONNA ITSELF A LITTLE OVER A METRE TALL AND USUALLY DRESSED IN A JEWELLED AND TASSELLED GOLDEN DRESS DONATED BY #ANTON 5RI IN STANDS ILLUMINATED WITHIN AT THE CENTRE OF ATTENTION %INSIEDELN REMAINS A FULLY FUNCTIONING MONASTIC COMMUNITY WWWKLOSTER
EINSIEDELNCH WITH AROUND A HUNDRED PRIESTS AND BROTHERS -ASS IS CELEBRATED SEVERAL TIMES A DAY /F THE MANY ANNUAL PILGRIMAGE FESTIVALS THE MOST COLOURFUL IS THE &EAST OF THE -IRACULOUS $EDICATION ON 3EPTEMBER WHICH CULMINATES IN A CANDLELIT PROCESSION AROUND THE SQUARE
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4HE SMALL VILLAGE OF %).3)%$%,. M IN THE HILLS OF NORTHERN 3CHWYZ KM NORTHEAST OF "RUNNEN HAS BEEN 3WITZERLANDS MOST IMPORTANT SITE OF PILGRIMAGE FOR A THOUSAND YEARS AND STILL DRAWS A QUARTER OF A MILLION DEVOUT BELIEVERS EVERY YEAR 4HE VILLAGE ITSELF IS UNREMARKABLE BUT THE MIGHTY "ENEDIC TINE +LOSTER MONASTERY WHICH DOMINATES IT IS EXCEPTIONAL AND WORTH A DETOUR WHETHER YOURE DRAWN BY FAITH OR CURIOSITY %INSIEDELN MEANS HERMITAGE AND IS NAMED FOR 3T -EGINRAT WHO WITHDREW TO WHAT WAS THEN WILD FOREST IN ABOUT !$ !FTER HIS DEATH IN HERMITS MAINTAINED -EGINRATS SELF BUILT ALTAR FORMING A "ENEDICTINE COMMUNITY IN AT THE BEHEST OF A PROVOST OF 3TRASBOURG CATHEDRAL WHO INVITED THE "ISHOP OF +ONSTANZ TO PERFORM THE CONSECRATION OF A NEW CHURCH ON THE SITE n THE BISHOP WAS ABOUT TO DO SO WHEN A VOICE WAS HEARD RINGING THROUGH THE CHURCH INSIST ING THREE TIMES OVER THAT #HRIST HIMSELF HAD ALREADY CONSECRATED THE CHURCH 4HE POPE DECLARED THIS TO BE A MIRACLE AND ISSUED A PAPAL BULL BLESSING THE PILGRIMAGE TO %INSIEDELN &ROM THEN ON THE MONASTERY ENJOYED SPECIAL PRIVILEGE WITH LARGE ROYAL GRANTS AND POSITIONS OF HONOUR FOR THE ABBOTS "Y A #HAPEL OF /UR ,ADY BUILT OVER THE REMAINS OF -EGINRATS CELL WAS ALREADY A FOCAL POINT IT WAS ADORNED AFTER A DESTRUCTIVE lRE IN WITH A STATUETTE OF -ARY WITH THE INFANT #HRIST CARVED IN WOOD SOME TIME BEFORE )T IS THIS lGURE BLACKENED BY SMOKE FROM THE CANDLES OF CENTURIES WHICH BECAME THE FOCUS FOR PILGRIMAGE AND WHICH HAS RETAINED ITS NUMINOUS POWER TO THIS DAY AS THE "LACK -ADONNA
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- 6; & 3/"/%; & /53" - 4 $ ) 8 & * ;
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&,Ä%,%. IS THE FARTHEST POINT OF THE 6IERWALDSTËTTERSEE FROM ,UZERN A PICTUR ESQUE LITTLE TOWN WITH THE TRAIN STATION RIGHT BESIDE THE LANDING STAGE &AST TRAINS FROM &LàELEN SERVE BOTH ,UZERN AND :àRICH WITH ALTERNATE SERVICES REQUIRING A CHANGE AT !RTH 'OLDAU AS WELL AS HEADING SOUTH THROUGH THE 'OTTHARD TO 4ICINO )TS ALSO THE SOUTHERN TERMINUS OF THE !XENSTRASSE THE NARROW ROAD WHICH CLINGS BELOW THE CLIFFS OF THE EASTERN SHORE OF THE 5RNERSEE SOUTH FROM "RUNNEN 4HE ROAD WAS ONLY COMPLETED IN AND ENABLED TRAVELLERS TO APPROACH THE 'OTTHARD FOR THE lRST TIME BY LAND INSTEAD OF FORCING THEM TO TAKE SHIP FROM ,UZERN OR "RUNNEN 3OME KM NORTH OF &LàELEN n AND ACCESSIBLE ONLY BY CAR BOAT OR ON FOOT NO BUSES USE THE !XENSTRASSE n IS THE 4ELLSPLATTE A mAT ROCK ONTO WHICH 7ILLIAM 4ELL IS PURPORTED TO HAVE LEAPT TO ESCAPE THE CLUTCHES OF 'ESSLER SEE BOX PPn "ESIDE IT IS A RESTAURANT AND BEAUTI FULLY FRAMED AMIDST THE TREES THE 4ELLSKAPELLE SEE P A TINY MONUMENT BUILT IN WITH ARCHED LOGGIA FEATURING VIVID FRESCOES DEPICTING THE STORY OF 4ELL "OATS SERVING THIS POINT FROM "RUNNEN ALSO PASS THE 3CHILLERSTEIN A M HIGH NATURAL OBELISK NEAR THE 2àTLI WHICH WAS INSCRIBED IN h4O &RIEDRICH 3CHILLER THE #HRONICLER OF 4ELLv "USES FROM &LàELEN STATION RUN INTO CENTRAL !,4$/2& SOME KM SOUTH !LTDORF S OWN TRAIN STATION IS INCONVENIENTLY LOCATED KM WEST OF THE CENTRE !T THE TRAFlC BOUND HEART OF !LTDORF IS THE 2ATHAUSPLATZ DOMINATED BY THE IMPRESSIVE 4ELLDENKMAL 4ELL -ONUMENT n A MUCH PHOTOGRAPHED ICON ERECTED IN THAT DEPICTS A STURDY BEARDED 4ELL RAISING HIS EYES FEARLESSLY TO THE HORIZON WHILE HIS SON EMBODI MENT OF THE 3WISS PEOPLE ACCEPTS HIS FATHERS PROTECTING ARM AND GAZES TRUSTINGLY UPWARDS AT HIM 4HIS SQUARE IS REPUTEDLY THE SCENE OF THE ©5 4HE©4ELL©-ONUMENT ©!LTDORF
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- 6; & 3/"/%; & /53" - 4 $ ) 8 & * ;
APPLE SHOOTING EVENT COMMEMORATED IN THE LEGEND .EARBY ALLEYS HAVE RETAINED PLENTY OF CHARACTER BUT IF THE 4ELL BUG HAS BITTEN YOU GRAB A BUS FROM THE SQUARE OR FROM !LTDORF 0OST M SOUTH ON "AHNHOFSTRASSE TO "Ä2',%. A VILLAGE KM NORTHEAST ON THE +LAUSEN ROAD WHICH IS CELEBRATED AS 4ELLS BIRTH PLACE 4HE CHAPEL WHICH SITS BESIDE "àRGLENS VILLAGE CHURCH ON THE SITE OF 4ELLS HOUSE WAS DEDICATED AS EARLY AS WITH INTERIOR FRESCOES DEPICTING THE LEGEND DATING FROM THE S !ROUND THE CORNER FROM THE 4ELL FOUNTAIN OUT FRONT IS THE 4ELL -USEUM DAILY *ULY !UG AMnPM -AY *UNE 3EPT /CT nAM nPM &R 3-0 WWWTELLMUSEUMCH A WORTHWHILE LITTLE PLACE CRAMMED WITH 4ELL CURIOSITIES ASK THEM TO SET UP THE INFORMATIVE TWENTY MINUTE SLIDE SHOW IN %NGLISH ON THE HISTORY OF THE LEGEND 7HATS REMARKABLE ABOUT THE !LTDORF AREA IS THE UNDERSTATEDNESS OF ITS 4ELLMANIA YOU GET THE FEELING THAT 4ELL ALTHOUGH SOMETHING OF A CARICATURE TO NON 3WISS IS FAR TOO IMPORTANT TO THE LOCALS TO START A WHOLE TOURIST CIRCUS 4ELLSPLATTE !LTDORF AND "àRGLEN ARE ALL OUT OF THE WAY PLACES LITTLE VISITED BY FOREIGNERS AND YOU MAY WELL lND THAT THE ONLY TOURISTS ARE 3WISS FAMILIES SPENDING A WEEKEND IN THE AREA TO GIVE THE KIDS A GLIMPSE OF THEIR HERITAGE 4HE ROAD THROUGH "àRGLEN CONTINUES UP ON A SPECTACULAR DRIVE n FOLLOWED BY BUSES IN SUMMER n TO THE +LAUSEN 0ASS SEE ALSO P AND OVER TO ,INTHAL IN #ANTON 'LARUS 4HIS IS ONE OF THE MOST SCENIC PASS ROUTES IN THE COUNTRY WITH DIZZY VIEWS CONSTANTLY DISTRACTING YOU FROM THE BUSINESS OF KEEPING ON THE NARROW ROAD
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- 6; & 3/"/%; & /53" - 4 $ ) 8 & * ;
VALLEY SIDES TO OFFER ANY PANORAMAS OF ITS OWN !NDERMATT ALSO SERVES AS THE 3WISS !RMYS PRINCIPAL !LPINE TRAINING CENTRE YOU MAY lND AN OVER PREPONDERANCE OF MILITARY TYPES AROUND AND ABOUT AND ITS PRUDENT TO CHECK WITH THE TOURIST OFlCE THAT YOUR CHOSEN ROUTE IS OPEN BEFORE YOU SET OFF ON ANY LONG DISTANCE HIKES !NDERMATTS TRAIN STATION IS M NORTH OF THE TOWN CENTRE TURN LEFT OUTSIDE FOR THE TOURIST OFlCE IN THE SAME BUILDING AS THE POSTBUS BOOKING CENTRE *ULYn3EPT $ECn-ARCH -ONn3AT AMnNOON nPM REST OF YEAR -ONn &RI SAME TIMES WWWANDERMATTCH !CCOMMODATION IS CLUSTERED AROUND THE PICTURESQUE MAIN 'OTTHARDSTRASSE WHICH CAN GET CROWDED IN SUMMER 3ONNE AT NO WWWHOTELSONNEANDERMATTCH IS A COSY OLD WOODEN PLACE WHILE THE $REI +ÚNIGE 0OST AT NO WWWKOENIGECH n HAS MODERN COMFORTABLE ROOMS 4HE HIGH PASSES ALL ROUND OFFER POSSIBILITIES FOR SPECTACULAR ROUND TRIP DRIVING TOURS n YOU CAN FOLLOW THE ROUTE FROM !NDERMATT OVER THE 'OTTHARD .UFENEN AND &URKA PASSES BY POSTBUS IN SUMMER OR ITS EQUALLY POSSIBLE TO STRIKE OUT WITH YOUR OWN TRANSPORT OVER THE 3USTEN 'RIMSEL AND &URKA PASSES WITH AN INTERMEDIATE STOP FOR LUNCH IN -EIRINGEN SEE P 4O THE EAST THE /BERALP 0ASS LEADS TO $ISENTIS-USTÏR SEE P 5IF(PUUIBSE1BTTBOEUVOOFMT
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4HE MOST FAMOUS OF ALL THE !LPINE PASSES THE 3T 'OTTHARD OR 3AN 'OTTARDO M IS ALSO THE MOST MEMORABLE TO VISIT 4HE TURBULENT 3CHÚLLENEN 'ORGE A FEW KILOMETRES NORTH OF !NDERMATT WAS lRST BRIDGED IN THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY ALLOWING TRAFlC TO PENETRATE UP THE FULL LENGTH OF THE 2EUSS VALLEY FROM &LàELEN TO THE PASS ITSELF FROM WHERE A CONTINUATION ROAD FOLLOWED THE VALLEY OF THE 2IVER 4ICINO ALL THE WAY SOUTH TO "ELLINZONA AND -ILAN 4ODAY THREE DAILY BUSES *ULYn3EPT ONLY FOLLOW THE NEW ROAD FROM !NDERMATT UP TO THE PASS AND ON DOWN TO !IROLO 4HE OLD COBBLED ROAD WHICH BRANCHES OFF PARTWAY UP IS MUCH QUIETER AND MORE PICTURESQUE "OTH MEET ON TOP WHERE YOULL lND A WILD WINDSWEPT SPOT WITH A HANDFUL OF BUILDINGS CLUSTERED AROUND A SMALL LAKE THATS BECOME AN UNFORTUNATELY POPULAR PICNICKING SPOT FOR DAY TRIPPING FAMILIES 4HE PASS IS ONE OF %UROPES WATERSHEDS RAIN OR SNOWMELT ON THE NORTH SIDE ULTIMATELY ENDS UP IN THE 2HINE AND THE .ORTH 3EA WHILE MOISTURE ON THE SOUTH SIDE mOWS INTO THE 0O AND THE -EDITERRANEAN 4HE OLD HOSPICE BESIDE THE ROAD NOW HOUSES THE ENGAGING -USEO .AZIONALE DEL 3AN 'OTTARDO -AYn/CT DAILY AMnPM &R 3-0 WHICH OUTLINES THE HISTORY OF THE PASS WITH MODELS RELIEFS PAINTINGS AND AUDIOVISUAL SLIDE SHOWS !CROSS THE ROAD THERE ARE SIMPLE MODERN ROOMS AVAILABLE AT THE OFTEN BUSY !LBERGO 3AN 'OTTARDO WWWGOTTHARD HOSPIZCH -AYn /CT &ROM THE PASS MOST TRAFlC FOLLOWS THE NEW ROAD DOWN TO !IROLO BUT THE OLD COBBLED ROAD THAT SNAKES DOWN BEHIND THE ALBERGO OFF THE BACK OF THE PASS INTO 4ICINO IS TRULY SPECTACULAR WITH TERRIlC VISTAS ALL THE WAY DOWN INTO THE 6AL 4REMOLO h6ALLEY OF 4REMBLINGv )F YOURE HIKING ITS A THREE HOUR WALK TO !IROLO THIS WAY OR SIX HOURS BY AN OFF ROAD ROUTE THROUGH 6AL #ANARIA ON THE NORTH SIDE !NDERMATT IS THREE HOURS AWAY VIA THE SMALL VILLAGE OF (OSPENTAL OR SIX BY A MORE SCENIC ROUTE THROUGH THE DESERTED VALLEYS AROUND -AIGHELS 5IF(PUUIBSEUVOOFMT
&OOT TRAFlC HAS USED THE 'OTTHARD 0ASS SINCE ABOUT AND THE lRST CARRIAGE CROSSED IN ,ESS THAN A CENTURY LATER IN AFTER DECADES OF DEBATE OVER ROUTES AND COSTS WORK BEGAN ON A RAIL TUNNEL BENEATH THE PASS /VER SEVEN YEARS AND LIVES LATER THE BORES WHICH HAD BEGUN SIMULTANEOUSLY FROM
3UMMER POSTBUSES FROM !NDERMATT CROSS THE &URKA 0ASS M SEE ALSO P WESTWARDS INTO #ANTON 6ALAIS WHILE MAINLINE PASSENGER AND CAR CARRYING TRAINS USE THE YEAR ROUND &URKA "ASIS 4UNNEL BENEATH THE PASS "USES ASIDE THE MAIN DRAW ON THE 5RI SIDE IS A VOLUNTEER RUN ANTIQUE MOUNTAIN STEAM TRAIN THE $&" WWWFURKA BERGSTRECKECH WHICH IN SUMMER PUFFS ITS WAY FROM 2EALP n A HAMLET AN EASY HOUR AND THREE QUARTER WALK FROM !NDERMATT n UP TO A STATION NEAR THE PASS AND ON THROUGH THE SHORT -UTTBACH TUNNEL TO 'LETSCH 4HE ROUND TRIP COSTS &R "ETWEEN 2EALP AND THE PASS IS (OTEL 4IEFENBACH WWW TIEFENBACH HOTELCH WITH QUALITY DORMS FROM &R ALSO OPEN IN WINTER
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:àRICHS MAIN STATION OR (AUPTBAHNHOF (" HAS TRAINS ARRIVING CONTINUOUSLY FROM ALL CORNERS OF 3WITZERLAND AND AROUND %UROPE )TS A MASSIVE BEEHIVE OF A PLACE LOCATED IN THE HEART OF THE CITY EXTENDING THREE STOREYS BELOW GROUND AND TAKING IN A SHOPPING MALL SUPERMARKET AND SOME GOOD RESTAURANTS -OST TRAINS ARRIVE AT STREET LEVEL PLATFORMS n WHERE THE ECHOING STATION CONCOURSE IS HOME TO A SCATTERING OF FAST FOOD STALLS AND CAFÏS A POST OFlCE AND AT THE FAR END BEYOND THE GIANT CLOCK THE TOURIST OFlCE SEE BELOW /UT OF SIGHT BEHIND THE TRAVEL BUREAU ARE THE BIKE RENTAL OFlCE AND LEFT LUGGAGE COUNTER /NE LEVEL DOWN YOULL lND LUGGAGE LOCKERS WHILE GOING DOWN AGAIN BRINGS YOU TO THE SHOPPING LEVEL WITH A WARREN OF ECHOING SUBTERRANEAN PASSAGEWAYS STRETCHING OFF IN ALL DIRECTIONS 3 "AHN SUBURBAN TRAINS LEAVE FROM THE LOWEST LEVEL PLATFORMS n AND SEPARATELY n TO LOCAL DESTINATIONS SUCH AS 5ETLIBERG AND !DLISWIL THE HUGE INFORMATION BOARDS ON THE STREET LEVEL CONCOURSE LIST 3 "AHN DEPARTURES SEPARATELY FROM MAINLINE DEPARTURES &ERN VERKEHR 3OME 3 "AHN TRAINS DEPART FROM PLATFORMS n LOCATED AT STREET LEVEL HALF WAY ALONG PLATFORM 3 "AHN SERVICES TO NEARBY TOWNS SUCH AS 7INTERTHUR AND "ADEN ARE SLOWER THAN MAINLINE TRAINS BUT ©5 7EEKLY©MARKET ©(AUPTBAHNHOF GO MORE FREQUENTLY
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0ARKING IS DIFlCULT AND EXPENSIVE !LL OF THE /LD 4OWN PLUS CHUNKS OF THE CENTRAL COMMERCIAL DISTRICT ARE OFF LIMITS TO CARS AND ALTHOUGH THERE ARE NINE PARKING GARAGES IN THE CENTRE PINPOINTED AT WWWPARKINGCH THEY CAN BE PROHIBITIVELY EXPENSIVE OFTEN MORE THAN &R A DAY )TS A GOOD IDEA TO ASK YOUR HOTEL IN ADVANCE ABOUT PARKING SOME CAN RESERVE FREE OR DISCOUNTED SPACES FOR GUESTS )NTERNATIONAL BUSES ARRIVE AT THE OPEN BUS PARK ON 3IHLQUAI OPPOSITE THE 7ALHALLA HOTEL M BEHIND THE STATION $OMESTIC 3WISS POSTBUSES TERMINATE IN THE SUBURBS
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/NE OF THE GREAT ADVANTAGES OF :àRICH IS THAT YOU CAN ENJOY ALL THE BUZZ OF BIG CITY LIFE IN A COMPACT SETTING THATS NO LARGER THAN A SINGLE ARRONDISSEMENT OF 0ARIS COVERING THE CITY ON FOOT IS PERFECTLY FEASIBLE 4HE MAIN "AHNHOFSTRASSE WHICH EXTENDS FROM THE STATION TO "àRKLIPLATZ IS ONLY A BIT OVER KM LONG .ONETHE LESS :àRICHS CITY TRANSPORT SYSTEM IS LEGENDARY FOR ITS EFlCIENCY PUNCTUALITY AND CONVENIENCE WITH THE CITY CENTRE AND SURROUNDING SUBURBS LINKED BY A CATS CRADLE OF ROUTINGS !FTER A REFERENDUM IN THE S IN WHICH :àRCHERS REJECTED A PROPOSAL TO BUILD AN UNDERGROUND METRO THE CITY HAS FOCUSED ON ITS ECO FRIENDLY AND UBIQ UITOUS TRAMS WHILE EASING MOST CARS OFF THE CITY CENTRE STREETS 4RAM LINES WEAVE THROUGH THE CENTRE AND DOZENS OF BUS ROUTES FAN OUT FROM SUBURBAN TERMINI TO OUTLYING DISTRICTS 3 "AHN SUBURBAN TRAINS MOST ORIGINATING FROM OR PASSING THROUGH THE MAIN STATION ADD A THIRD DIMENSION LINKING TO :UG AND %INSIEDELN IN THE SOUTH AND 7INTERTHUR 3CHAFFHAUSEN AND 3TEIN AM 2HEIN IN THE NORTH AS WELL AS SERVING THE NEARBY 5ETLIBERG SUMMIT "OATS CRISSCROSS THEIR WAY UP AND DOWN THE :àRICHSEE 4HERES EVEN A FREE BIKE RENTAL SCHEME SEE P 4AXIS IN A CITY WHERE EVEN MILLIONAIRE BANKERS USE THE TRAM ARE AN EXTRAVA GANCE WITH A &R mAGFALL PLUS &R PER KILOMETRE 4HERE ARE NUMEROUS PUBLIC RANKS OR YOU CAN ORDER ONE FROM FOR EXAMPLE 4AXI OR !LPHA 4AXI 5JDLFUJOHBOEGBSFT
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)F YOU FOLLOW 2ËMISTRASSE UPHILL FROM THE +UNSTHAUS YOULL SOON COME TO THE UNIVERSITY QUARTER !T 2ËMISTRASSE IS THE !RCHËOLOGISCHE 3AMMLUNG !RCHEOLOGICAL #OLLECTION 4UESn&RI nPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM FREE WWW ARCHINSTUNIZHCH WITH A RANGE OF IMPRESSIVE PIECES !SIDE FROM THE WEALTH OF %TRUSCAN WARE THE MOST INTERESTING ARTEFACTS COME FROM THE -IDDLE %AST WITH AN ENTIRE CASE DEVOTED TO THE STUNNING %GYPTIAN &AYOUM PORTRAITS FROM THE lRST CENTURIES "#n!$ WALL SIZED STELES FROM NINTH CENTURY "# .IMRUD IN MODERN )RAQ A COMPLETE MUMMY AND DOZENS OF STATUETTES OF ANCIENT %GYPTIAN DEITIES INCLUDING SOME MEMORABLE CATS AND MANY 2OMAN AND (ELLENIC PIECES #LOSE BY THE 'RAPHISCHE 3AMMLUNG DER %4( 2ËMISTRASSE ENTRANCE ON +ARL 3CHMID 3TRASSE -ONn&RI AMnPM 7ED UNTIL PM FREE WWW GSETHZCH HOUSES THOUSANDS OF WOODCUTS ETCHINGS AND ENGRAVINGS FROM ALL PERIODS PARTICULARLY STRONG ON $àRER 2EMBRANDT 'OYA AND 0ICASSO "EFORE YOU REACH THESE PARTWAY UP 2ËMISTRASSE AT THE JUNCTION WITH :àRICH BERGSTRASSE STANDS THE UNIVERSITYS LAW LIBRARY 2ECHTSWISSENSCHAFTLICHES )NSTITUT WWWRWIUNIZHCHBIBLIOTHEK -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM AT NO 5NREMARKABLE FROM THE STREET IT BOASTS A STUNNING MODERN INTERIOR
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COFFEEPOTS PAINTING PRINTS AND DRAW INGS ARE mESHED OUT BY VIDEOS OF 46 COFFEE ADS n AND FREE COFFEE TO DRINK *UST BEYOND IS THE LOVELY :àRICH HORN PARK A POPULAR PLACE FOR SOAKING UP SOME SUNSHINE THAT ALSO BOASTS THE lNE (EUREKA SCULP TURE BY *EAN 4INGUELY AND A VISU ALLY STRIKING BUT UNDERWHELMING WALLED #HINESE GARDEN !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM &R WWW CHINAGARTENCH A GIFT FROM :àRICHS TWIN CITY OF +UNMING FEATUR ING SCARLET GATEWAYS A TRADITIONAL ZIGZAG BRIDGE AND PAVILIONS AND THE THREE SYMBOLIC SPECIES OF PINE BAMBOO AND CHERRY 4HE GRAND :àRICHHORN #ASINO BUILDING HAS A POPULAR TERRACE CAFÏ FOR REFRESHMENTS AND A JETTY FROM WHERE BOATS SHUTTLE TO AND FROM "àRKLIPLATZ ! COUPLE OF BLOCKS INLAND FROM THE :àRICHHORN IS THE PLEASANT OPEN "OTANISCHER ©5 4HE©LAKESIDE 'ARTEN :OLLIKERSTRASSE -ONn &RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM SHORTER HOURS IN WINTER TRAM OR TO (ÚSCHGASSE FREE WWWBGUZUNIZHCH A RIOT OF COLOUR IN SPRING AND SUMMER WITH THREE TROPICAL PLANTHOUSES AND A CAFÏ 3OUTH OF THE :àRICHHORN PARK IS THE 3AMMLUNG %' "àHRLE A SMALL VERY HIGH QUALITY PRIVATE lNE ART COLLECTION AT :OLLIKERSTRASSE 4UES 7ED &RI 3UN nPM TRAM OR TO 7ILDBACHSTRASSE THEN WALK MIN &R WWW BUEHRLECH 4HE PAINTINGS ARE MOSTLY BY &RENCH )MPRESSIONISTS AND 0OST )MPRESSIONISTS DISPLAYED IN A TASTEFULLY FURNISHED MANSION -ANET 6AN 'OGH INCLUDING AN SELF PORTRAIT AND #ÏZANNES LANDSCAPES FORM THE CENTREPIECE BUT OTHER ARTISTS REPRESENTED INCLUDE -ONET 2ENOIR 3ISLEY $EGAS 4OULOUSE ,AUTREC 3EURAT -ATISSE "RAQUE AND 0ICASSO &ILLING OUT THIS EXTRAORDINARY COLLECTION ARE WORKS BY 2EMBRANDT INCLUDING 0ORTRAIT OF 3ASKIA A RARE PAINTING OF HIS WIFE
5IFXFTUCBOL %MERGING ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE STATION INTO HECTIC "AHNHOFPLATZ YOURE MET BY A STATUE OF !LFRED %SCHER A PROMINENT NINETEENTH CENTURY POLITI CIAN AND INDUSTRIALIST WHO IS CREDITED WITH SINGLE HANDEDLY LEADING :àRICH INTO THE MODERN BUSINESS AGE )N AN INSPIRED PIECE OF STATUE PLACEMENT HE GAZES DOWN "AHNHOFSTRASSE WWWBAHNHOFSTRASSE ZUERICHCH ONE OF THE MOST PRESTIGIOUS SHOPPING STREETS IN %UROPE AN ENDURING SYMBOL OF :àRICHS WEALTH AND A FASCINATING COUNTERPOINT TO THE QUAINTNESS OF THE .IEDERDORF ALLEYS 4HIS IS THE GATEWAY INTO THE MODERN CITY AND IS WHERE ALL OF :àRICH COMES TO WALK SNACK AND SHOP WHETHER TO BROWSE AT THE INEX PENSIVE DEPARTMENT STORES THAT CROWD THE lRST THIRD OF THE STREET OR TO SIGN AWAY &R ON A 2OLEX WATCH OR A 6UITTON HANDBAG AT THE UNDERSTATED SUPER CHIC BOUTIQUES FURTHER SOUTH !T NO BELOW THE "EYER WATCH AND
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"ETWEEN "AHNHOFSTRASSE AND THE RIVER LIES THE WESTERN PORTION OF THE /LD 4OWN THERE ARE MANY PICTURESQUE ALLEYS TO EXPLORE HERE 2ENNWEG BRANCHES OFF "AHN HOFSTRASSE AND A SHORT WALK LEFT FROM IT UP THE HILL BRINGS YOU TO THE ,INDENHOF THE OLDEST PART OF :àRICH AND SITE OF A 2OMAN CUSTOMS POST 4HE BROAD SPACE IS QUIET NOW OCCUPIED MOSTLY BY CHESS PLAYING OLD TIMERS AND GIVES A lNE PANORAMA OVER THE ROOFTOPS $OWN ON THE RIVERSIDE IS 3CHIPFE ONE OF :àRICHS OLDEST QUARTERS ONCE THE CENTRE OF THE CITYS SILK INDUSTRY PACKED WITH ARTISANS SHOPS AND LITTLE CAFÏS /N THE ,INDENHOF S OTHER SIDE 0FALZGASSE DESCENDS STEEPLY INTO A DENSE NETWORK OF COBBLED LANES WHERE !UGUSTINERGASSE WITH ITS ROMANTIC ORIEL WINDOWED HOUSES LEADS TO TINY -àNZPLATZ OVERLOOKED BY THE BEAUTIFUL !UGUSTINERKIRCHE DATING FROM 3PARE AND SIMPLE INSIDE THE CHURCH WAS SECULARIZED DURING THE 2EFORMATION IN AND BECAME THE TOWNS MINT BUT IT WAS RENOVATED AND RE DEDICATED IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY AND IS NOW USED BY THE #HRIST #ATHOLIC #HURCH SEE P .EARBY THE TOP mOOR OF THE 3TRAUHOF LITERARY MUSEUM IS HOME TO THE *AMES *OYCE &OUNDATION !UGUSTINERGASSE -ONn&RI AMnPM FREE WWW JOYCEFOUNDATIONCH ON -ONDAYS RING THE BELL WHICH HAS A CREAKING LIBRARY AND READING ROOM CRAMMED WITH RESEARCH MATERIALS AND ONE OF %UROPES MOST COMPREHENSIVE COLLECTIONS OF *OYCEANA *OYCE WROTE 5LYSSES DURING HIS WARTIME EXILE IN :àRICH n HE RETURNED IN AND DIED ON *ANUARY LAID TO REST IN &LUN TERN CEMETERY NEXT TO THE ZOO WHERE THERE IS NOW A STATUE TO HIM 4HE &OUNDATION CAN DIRECT YOU TO HIS VARIOUS HAUNTS AROUND TOWN AND THEY ALSO HOLD REGULAR OPEN READINGS n FREE TO ALL n FROM 5LYSSES 4UES nPM AND &INNEGANS 7AKE 4HURS nPM nPM !UGUSTINERGASSE LEADS ON TO THE 3T 0ETERS +IRCHE -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM WWWST PETER ZHCH DATING FROM THE THIR TEENTH CENTURY BUT MUCH ALTERED IN 4HE FACT THAT IT BOASTS THE LARGEST CLOCK FACE IN %UROPE M IN DIAMETER IS LESS INTERESTING THAN THE UNUSUAL SIGHT ABOVE THE PULPIT AMIDST "AROQUE BAS RELIEF OF THE NAME OF 'OD IN (EBREW LETTERING LEGACY OF THE ©5 *OYCES©GRAVE ©&LUNTERN©CEMETERY
2EFORMERS DESIRE TO RECLAIM THE FUNDAMENTAL SOURCES OF #HRISTIANITY ! STEPPED ALLEY ADJACENT TO THE CHURCH 4HERMENGASSE HAS A CATWALK TAKING YOU OVER AN EXCAVATED 2OMAN BATHS ! SHORT DISTANCE SOUTH IS THE -àNSTERHOF WITH THE GRAND "AROQUE :UNFTHAUS ZUR -EISEN HOUSING THE .ATIONAL -USEUMS CERAMICS COLLECTION 4UESn3UN AMnPM &R INCLUDING SOME IMPRESSIVE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY PORCELAIN AND FAIENCE 5IF'SBVNàOTUFS
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+ARSTGËSSCHEN LEADS FROM OPPOSITE THE :UM /CHSEN HOUSE INTO 0LATZ ITS FOUNTAIN SPORTING ANOTHER GRIM FACED MERCENARY &ROM HERE ALLEYS BRING YOU SOUTH ONTO THE MAIN 6ORDERGASSE A SHOPPING STREET SLOPING DOWNHILL TO THE EAST /N THE CORNER OF -àNSTERGASSE IS 3CHAFFHAUSENS MOST CELEBRATED HOUSE THE :UM 2ITTER ITS FACADE COVERED IN AN INTRICATE DESIGN DATING FROM THAT IS ACCLAIMED AS THE MOST SIGNIlCANT 2ENAISSANCE FRESCO TO SURVIVE NORTH OF THE !LPS THE ORIGINAL IS NOW PRESERVED IN THE TOWN MUSEUM THIS IS A S COPY 4HE FRESCO DEPICTS OVER THREE STOREYS VARIOUS ELEMENTS OF KNIGHTLY VIRTUES 2ITTER MEANS hKNIGHTv THE CENTRAL PANEL SHOWS /DYSSEUS IN THE ,AND OF THE ,OTUS %ATERS TEMPTED BY A VOLUPTUOUS WOMAN WHILE ABOVE IS A 2OMAN KNIGHT WHO SACRIlCED HIMSELF FOR THE GLORY OF HIS COUNTRY "ELOW IS A TRUSTING GIRL SYMBOLIZING VIRTUE PROTECTED BY A KING THE GOVERNMENT AND A WOMAN HOLDING A MITRE THE CHURCH &ROM THE :UM 2ITTER ALLEYS HEAD SOUTHWEST TO ANOTHER OF 3CHAFFHAUSENS BROAD OPEN SQUARES (ERRENACKER SURROUNDED BY TALL DIGNIlED FACADES AND ON THE WEST SIDE THE MASSIVE +ORNHAUS &ROM THE :UM 2ITTER HOUSE 6ORDERGASSE CONTINUES EAST TO THE 'OTHIC lVE NAVED +IRCHE 3T *OHANN -ONn3AT AMnPM /CTn-ARCH AMnPM EXPANDED SIX TIMES SINCE IT WAS BEGUN IN THE ELEVENTH CENTURY )N A NICHE ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE TOWER IS A SMALL STATUE OF THE -ADONNA AND #HILD WITHOUT FEET THEY WERE REMOVED DURING THE 2EFORMATION WHEN A WALL WAS BUILT TO HIDE THE IMAGE ! FEW STEPS EAST IN FRONT OF A FOUNTAIN STATUE OF 7ILLIAM 4ELL IS THE MAGNIlCENT DOUBLE FRONTED 2OCOCO MANSION :UR 7ASSERQUELLE UND :IEGLERBURG 3OME M NORTH IS A FOOTBRIDGE OVER THE MAIN "ACHSTRASSE ROAD WHICH BRINGS YOU ONTO STEPS CLIMBING THE HILL TO THE -UNOT 4HIS IS 3CHAFFHAUSENS TRADEMARK CIRCULAR FORTRESS BUILT BY FORCED LABOUR IN AFTER THE RELIGIOUS WARS OF THE 2EFORMATION 4HE INTERIOR DAILY AMnPM /CTn!PRIL AMnPM WWW MUNOTCH IS GLOOMY WITH MASSIVE STONE VAULTING STRONG ENOUGH TO SUPPORT THE TONNE SUPERSTRUCTURE !N INTERNAL SPIRAL RAMP LEADS UP TO THE CIRCU LAR ROOF OF THE BASTION WITH GOOD VIEWS OVER THE TOWN ! DIFFERENT DOOR EXITS ONTO STAIRS RUNNING THROUGH THE VINES PLANTED ON THE -UNOT HILL DOWN TO THE SMALL RIVERSIDE QUARTER KNOWN AS 5NTERSTADT 3CHAFFHAUSENS ANNUAL /LD 4OWN
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3CHAFFHAUSENS LOFTY -àNSTER ZU !LLERHEILIGEN !LL 3AINTS -INSTER 4UESn3UN AMnNOON nPM WWWMUENSTER SCHAFFHAUSENCH IS THE FOCUS OF THE /LD 4OWN 4HE lRST CHURCH ON THE SITE DATED FROM REPLACED IN BY THE BUILDING WHICH STILL STANDS TODAY 4HE BEAUTIFULLY RESTORED 2OMANESQUE TOWER GIVES A HINT OF THE INTERIOR IN WHICH TWELVE HUGE COLUMNS OF 2ORSCHACH SANDSTONE LINE THE AUSTERE NAVE "ESIDE THE CATHEDRAL THE 2OMANESQUE 'OTHIC CLOISTER IS THE LARGEST IN 3WITZERLAND A LOVELY BROAD WALKWAY CIRCLING THE *UNKERNFRIEDHOF NOBLEMENS CEMETERY )N THE CATHEDRAL COURTYARD SITS THE HUGE 3CHILLER "ELL CAST IN THE 'ERMAN POET &RIEDRICH 3CHILLER NEVER SET FOOT IN 3CHAFFHAUSEN BUT WAS INSPIRED TO COMPOSE HIS 3ONG OF THE #LOCK BY 'OETHES RECORD OF THIS BELLS ,ATIN INSCRIPTION VIVOS VOCO MORTUOS PLANGO FULGURA FRANGO h) CALL ON THE LIVING LAMENT THE DEAD SHATTER THE LIGHTNINGv *UST BEYOND IS AN ATMOSPHERIC LITTLE HERB GARDEN )N THE SAME COMPLEX IS 3CHAFFHAUSENS MAIN HISTORICAL MUSEUM THE -USEUM ZU !LLERHEILIGEN 4UESn3UN AMnPM &R WWWALLERHEILIGENCH 4HE GROUND mOOR IS MOSTLY GIVEN OVER TO A VAST ARCHEOLOGICAL COLLECTION BUT AS WITH THE RAMBLING HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS SPREAD OVER THIS AND THE UPPER mOORS THERES LITTLE COHERENCE 4HE PLACE IS LIKE A LABYRINTH AND YOU COULD EITHER WANDER ENJOYING THE SURPRISE OF COMING ACROSS A ROOMFUL OF EARLY MEDIEVAL RELIGIOUS ART OR A RESTORED 'OTHIC CHAPEL OR INSTEAD CUT YOUR LOSSES AND HEAD FOR THE TOPMOST mOOR WHICH HOLDS AN ENGAGING COLLECTION OF ART BY 3WISS PAINTERS AND SCULPTORS OF THE LAST lVE CENTURIES )BMMFOGàS/FVF,VOTU
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5IF3IJOFGBMMT 3CHAFFHAUSENS BEST EXCURSION IS THE SHORT TRIP WESTWARDS TO THE 2HINE FALLS WWWRHINEFALLSCOM %UROPES LARGEST WATERFALLS 4HEY ARE TRULY MAGNIlCENT NOT SO MUCH FOR THEIR HEIGHT A MERE M AS FOR THEIR IMPRESSIVE BREADTH M AND THE SHEER DRAMA OF THE PLACE WITH THE SPRAY RISING IN A CLOUD OF RAINBOWS ABOVE THE FORESTED BANKS 4HE TURRETED CASTLE 3CHLOSS ,AUFEN ON A CLIFF DIRECTLY ABOVE THE FALLS TO THE SOUTH COMPLETES THE SPECTACLE !UGUST n THE 3WISS .ATIONAL $AY n SEES A MIGHTY lREWORKS DISPLAY STAGED ON THE RIVERSIDE 4HE KM RIVERSIDE WALK FROM 3CHAFFHAUSEN TO THE SUBURBAN TOWN OF .%5(!53%. WHERE THE FALLS ARE LOCATED TAKES ABOUT MINUTES OR YOU COULD TAKE CITY BUS OR TO .EUHAUSEN :ENTRUM FROM WHERE THE WELL SIGNPOSTED FALLS ARE lVE MINUTES WALK AWAY 3CHLOSS ,AUFEN HAS A TRAIN STATION !PRILn/CT ONLY SERVED BY HOURLY TRAINS BETWEEN 3CHAFFHAUSEN AND 7INTERTHUR BUT .EUHAUSENS OWN STATION IS AWKWARDLY FAR AWAY
/NCE YOURE WITHIN SIGHT OF THE FALLS YOURE INEVITABLY BROUGHT DOWN TO EARTH BY THE HORDES OF TOURISTS CROWDING BOTH BANKS IN SEARCH OF THE BEST CAMERA ANGLE AND BY THE CIRCUS OF SOUVENIR STALLS AND DISMAL RESTAURANTS ALL AROUND 4HE WORST OF IT IS ON THE NORTH RIGHT BANK CROSSING BY THE ARCHED FOOTBRIDGE OVER TO THE SOUTH LEFT BANK n WHICH CAN STILL GET CROWDED n AT LEAST MEANS YOU CAN EXPERIENCE THE POWER OF THE FALLS AT CLOSE QUARTERS $AMP STEPS &R LEAD DOWN FROM THE SOUVENIR SHOP AT 3CHLOSS ,AUFEN WWWSCHLOSSLAUFENCH PAST THE "ELLVEDERE AND &ISCHETZ LOOKOUT POINTS TO THE +ËNZELI PLATFORM AT THE VERY EDGE FROM WHERE THE ROARING WATERS TUMBLE INCHES FROM YOUR NOSE !NOTHER GREAT VIEW CAN BE HAD FROM ONE OF THE DAREDEVIL BOATS WHICH SCURRY AROUND IN THE SPRAY THEIR TOP EXCURSION TERMED A &ELSENFAHRT DOCKS AT THE CRAGGY ROCK IN THE CENTRE OF THE CATARACT "OTH 2HYFALL -ËNDLI WWWMAENDLICH AND 3CHIFF -ËNDLI WWW SCHIFFMAENDLICH RUN TRIPS CONTINUOUSLY ALL DAY -AYn3EPT FOR AS LITTLE AS &R "OATS DEPART FROM EASY TO SPOT JETTIES ON BOTH BANKS
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3CHAFFHAUSEN HAS A GOOD RANGE OF PLACES TO EAT FROM THE SELF SERVICE -ANORA DINER JUST OFF &RONWAGPLATZ UPWARDS #AFÏS AND BARS LINE ALL THE /LD 4OWN SQUARES &ASS "EIZ SEE BELOW IS A QUIET LITTLE NOOK TO SAVOUR A BEER OR THREE WHILE THERES A LIVELY CAFÏ BAR CLOSED -ON 4UES ATTACHED TO THE +AMMGARN ARTS CENTRE "AUMGARTENSTRASSE WWWKAMMGARNCH
4UFJOBN3IFJO 0OSITIONED ON THE 2HINE KM EAST OF 3CHAFFHAUSEN LITTLE 34%). !- 2(%). IS AN ALMOST PERFECTLY PRESERVED MEDIEVAL VILLAGE FAMED FOR THE INTRICACY OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES WHICH ADORN HOUSES IN THE VILLAGE )TS WELL WORTH A VISIT BUT SEES SO MANY TOUR BUSES DURING THE FRANTIC SUMMER
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SEASON n ABOUT A MILLION PEOPLE PASS THROUGH ANNUALLY n THAT TO ENJOY THE PLACE YOU SHOULD STAY OVERNIGHT ITS ONLY AFTER PM AND BEFORE AM THAT THERES MUCH PEACE &ROM THE 3CHIFmËNDI QUAY IF YOU HEAD EAST AND THEN CUT NORTH ON TINY 3CHWARZHORNGASSE YOULL COME IN A MINUTES STROLL TO THE 2ATHAUSPLATZ OFTEN ACCLAIMED AS THE MOST PICTURESQUE SQUARE IN 3WITZERLAND RINGED BY MEDIEVAL HALF TIMBERED BUILDINGS VYING WITH EACH OTHER FOR THE LAVISHNESS OF THEIR FRES COES AND THE GRACEFULNESS OF THEIR ORIELS 3TANDING ALONE AT THE HEAD OF THE SQUARE IS THE 2ATHAUS BUILT IN n THE HALF TIMBERED TOP STOREYS ARE ORIGI NAL THE MIDDLE mOOR DATES FROM A RENOVATION AND THE GROUND m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n 4HE REST OF THE VILLAGE PALES IN COMPARISON BUT THERE ARE PLENTY OF PICTURESQUE NARROW LANES AND ALLEYS TO EXPLORE IGNORED BY MOST VISITORS ! MANOR HOUSE AT 5NDERSTADT DATING FROM AND RENOVATED IN HAS BEEN CONVERTED INTO THE -USEUM ,INDWURM -ARCHn/CT -ON 7EDn3UN AMnPM &R 3-0 WWWMUSEUM LINDWURMCH WITH SURPRISINGLY INTERESTING DISPLAYS ON 3TEIN AM 2HEINS BOURGEOIS AND AGRICULTURAL LIFE IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY 4HE DESK KEEPS EXTENSIVE %NGLISH NOTES ! GREAT DEAL OF WORK HAS BEEN DONE TO RE CREATE THE LIVING CONDITIONS OF THE WEALTHY UPPER CLASS FAMILY WHO OWNED THE HOUSE WALKING THROUGH THE COBBLED STABLES THE %MPIRE STYLE DRAWING ROOM AND THE SPARTAN SERVANTS QUARTERS UNDER THE EAVES FEELS LIKE STEPPING BACK IN TIME 1SBDUJDBMJUJFT
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4HE VILLAGE IS CRAMMED WITH EATING PLACES 4HERES AN INEXPENSIVE CRÐPERIE AT 5NDERSTADT WHILE THE HISTORIC 2HEINFELS INN SEE OPPOSITE HAS AN ATMO SPHERIC ALL WOOD DINING ROOM CLOSED 7ED SPECIALIZING IN EXCELLENT lSH MENUS ARE AROUND &R 4HE GORGEOUS INTERIOR OF THE 2OTHER /CHSEN ON 2ATHAUSPLATZ WWWROTHEROCHSENCH CLOSED -ON SUITS ITS OUTSTANDING 3WISS FOOD MADE FROM ONLY LOCAL INGREDIENTS 4OP CHOICE IS THE 3ONNE ALSO ON 2ATHAUSPLATZ WWWSONNE STEINAMRHEINCH CLOSED 4UES 7ED WITH THE GROUND mOOR 7EINSTUBE SERVING EXCELLENT DAILY MENUS AROUND &R PREPARED IN THE SAME KITCHEN AS THE GOURMET CUISINE COSTING &R OR MORE IN THE RESTAURANT UPSTAIRS
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! lNE DETOUR WITH PICNIC POSSIBILITIES IS TO THE +!24!53% )44).'%. WWWKARTAUSECH A FORMER #HARTERHOUSE #ARTHUSIAN MONASTERY SET AMIDST HOP lELDS AND OPEN FARMLAND KM SOUTH OF 3TEIN AM 2HEIN OVER A HILLY RIDGE &ROM UNTIL THE OLD BUILDINGS ARRAYED AROUND A LARGE PEACEFUL COURTYARD WERE HOME TO A COMMUNITY OF BETWEEN TWELVE AND lFTEEN MONKS TODAY THE )TTINGER -USEUM -ONn&RI nPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM /CTn -ARCH CLOSES PM &R SHEDS LIGHT ON THE LIFE OF THE ORDER 4HE MONKS LIVED A LIFE OF EXTREME AUSTERITY TAKING ALL MEALS EXCEPT 3UNDAY LUNCH ALONE IN THEIR CELL AND REMAINING COMMITTED BY OATH TO SILENCE 4HE 2OCOCO CHURCH HAS A LONG NAVE DIVIDED INTO FOUR AND mANKED BY INTRICATE CHOIR STALLS CARVED AROUND AND A DRAMATIC HIGH ALTARPIECE DEPICTING 3T "RUNO FOUNDER OF THE ORDER 4HERES NO ORGAN SINCE THE #ARTHUSIAN -ASS IS SUNG WITHOUT ACCOMPANIMENT "ESIDE THE CHURCH IS THE ,ITTLE #LOISTER PRELUDE TO A SERIES OF DECORATED AND PARTLY FURNISHED ROOMS ONCE USED BY THE MONKS INCLUDING THE 2EFECTORY ROOM WITH SEVENTEENTH CENTURY PORTRAITS RINGING THE WALLS 4HE lFTEEN MONKS CELLS LIE OFF THE 'REAT #LOISTER 5PSTAIRS ROOMS INCLUDE A TINY PRISON WITH BARRED WINDOW AND AN UNUSUAL UPPER LEVEL GALLERY IN THE CHURCH 3OME ROOMS ARE GIVEN OVER TO THE +UNSTMUSEUM DES +ANTONS 4HURGAU WWWKUNSTMUSEUM CH SHOWING TWENTIETH CENTURY 3WISS ART 4HE ON SITE RESTAURANT :UR -àHLE HAS QUALITY AFFORDABLE MODERN CUISINE MENUS &Rn BUT THE FARMLAND ALL AROUND IS PRIME PICNIC TERRITORY PICK UP SOME HOME MADE GOODIES FROM THE LITTLE SHOP WHICH SELLS VEGETABLES FRESH BAKED BREAD FRAGRANT EAUX DE VIE AND BOTTLES OF LIP SMACKING +LOSTERBRËU BEER BREWED FROM HAND PICKED HOPS 0ART OF THE +ARTAUSE HAS BEEN RENOVATED AS A MODERN CONFERENCE STYLE HOTEL n ALL EXPOSED BRICK AND BRIGHT FUNCTIONAL COMFORTS 4HE (ERBERGE SECTION ADJACENT HAS SIMPLER SHARED BATH ROOMS 4HE +ARTAUSE HOSTS AN INTERNATIONALLY RENOWNED FESTIVAL OF CHAMBER MUSIC EVERY 7HITSUN &ROM 3TEIN AM 2HEIN TAKE A BUS TO 7ARTH lFTEEN MINUTES WALK OR A TWO MINUTE BUS RIDE FROM THE +ARTAUSE &ROM 7INTERTHUR OR :àRICH TAKE A TRAIN TO &RAUENFELD FROM WHERE SEVERAL BUSES A DAY RUN DIRECT TO THE +ARTAUSE ALTERNATIVELY YOU COULD RENT BIKES FROM &RAUENFELD STATION FOR THE RIDE KM NORTH TO THE MONASTERY n THE STATION TOURIST OFlCE -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM 3AT AMnNOON WWWFRAUENFELDCH HAS MAPS AND INFORMATION
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&ORMING A NATURAL BORDER BETWEEN 3WITZERLAND AND 'ERMANY THE LONG "ODENSEE n OFTEN ANGLICIZED TO ,AKE #ONSTANCE n IS A HUGE BULGE IN THE COURSE OF THE 2HINE SOME KM FROM END TO END 5NLIKE MOST OF THE 3WISS LAKES IT DOESNT HAVE THE BENElT OF SHORELINE MOUNTAINS AND SO IS EXPOSED TO WINDS YEAR ROUND AND HAS PARTICULARLY ROUGH WEATHER IN THE WINTER )F THERE IS HEAVY RAIN FURTHER SOUTH IN THE !LPS COMBINED WITH UNUSUALLY RAPID SNOWMELT THE "ODENSEES LAKESIDE TOWNS ARE THE lRST TO FEEL THE EFFECTS SPRING AND SUMMER mOODS HAVE BEEN AN INCREASINGLY COMMON EVENT IN RECENT YEARS 4HREE COUNTRIES BORDER THE "ODENSEE 4HE HEAD OF THE LAKE AT ITS SOUTHEASTERN CORNER IS !USTRIAN FOCUSED AROUND THE GENTEEL TOWN OF "REGENZ 4HE LARGEST SETTLEMENT ON THE NORTHERN 'ERMAN SHORE IS THE COSMOPOLITAN CITY OF +ONSTANZ SEPARATED FROM ITS CONTIGUOUS 3WISS SUBURB OF +REUZLINGEN ONLY BY AN ARBITRARY INTERNATIONAL FRONTIER (AZE AND LINGERING FOG CAN OFTEN MASK THE VIEWS ACROSS THE WATER BUT THIS HASNT STOPPED THE LAKESHORE BECOMING ONE OF 'ERMANYS MAIN SUMMER HOLIDAY DESTINATIONS THIS RUBS OFF ON THE SOUTHERN 3WISS SHORE TOO WHERE THE SCATTERING OF SOPORIlC LITTLE RESORTS SUCH AS 2ORSCH ACH AND !RBON HAVE A STRONG 4EUTONIC AIR ABOUT THEM
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4HE MAIN POINT OF COMING TO +REUZLINGEN IS TO VISIT +/.34!.: JUST OVER THE 'ERMAN FRONTIER 4HIS ANCIENT CITY STRADDLING THE 2HINE HAS BEEN AN IMPOR TANT ECCLESIASTICAL HUB FOR CENTURIES THE #OUNCIL OF +ONSTANZ n WHICH TRIED AND FAILED TO HEAL DIVISIONS WITHIN THE #HURCH MET IN THE HUGE -àNSTER ORIGINALLY A 2OMANESQUE BASILICA SET AMIDST A WEB OF CHARACTERFUL ALLEYS NOW LIVELY WITH STUDENTS FROM THE CITYS UNIVERSITY 4HE TOURIST OFlCE BESIDE THE STATION !PRILn/CT -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM REST OF YEAR -ONn&RI AMnPM nPM WWW KONSTANZDE HAS AN %NGLISH BOOKLET DETAILING A SELF GUIDED WALKING TOUR 4RAINS TAKE THREE MINUTES FROM +REUZLINGENS MAIN STATION BUT ITS REALLY NO HARDSHIP TO WALK THE lFTEEN MINUTES OR SO EITHER WAY YOULL NEED TO SHOW YOUR PASSPORT *UST KM NORTH IN 'ERMANY n ACCESSIBLE BY DIRECT FERRY FROM 3WISS AND 'ERMAN PORTS n IS ).3%, -!).!5 DAILY AMnPM /CTn!PRIL AMnPM + WWWMAINAUDE A FORESTED ISLAND OCCUPIED BY A "AROQUE CASTLE AND BEAUTIFUL GARDENS
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COMPRISING AROUND INDIVIDUAL lGURES THE SCULPTURE IS TEEMING WITH INTRI CATE DETAIL AND IS SURMOUNTED BY A lFTEENTH CENTURY CROSS +REUZ IN 'ERMAN WHICH HAS SURVIVED THREE MAJOR lRES 4HE CHURCH ITSELF IS NO LESS DAZZLING WITH A STUNNINGLY ORNATE CHOIR SCREEN IN GREEN AND GILT +REUZLINGENS MAIN STATION THE (AUPTBAHNHOF IS M SOUTH OF THE INTER NATIONAL BORDER HEAD EAST LEFT OUT OF THE STATION TO REACH THE TRAFlC LIGHTS ON (AUPTSTRASSE 4HE TOURIST OFlCE IS M AWAY JUST BEHIND (AUPTSTRASSE AT 3ONNENSTRASSE -ONn&RI nAM nPM WWW KREUZLINGEN TOURISMUSCH &ROM THESE TRAFlC LIGHTS (AFENSTRASSE CONTINUES EAST TO THE LAKESHORE WHERE YOULL lND THE HARBOUR AND THE (AFENBAHNHOF TRAIN STATION .EARBY IS THE OLD 6ILLA (ÚRNLIBERG HOUSING AN () HOSTEL 0ROMENADEN STRASSE WWWYOUTHHOSTELCH -ARCHn.OV DORMS ARE &R 3OUTH ALONG THE LAKESHORE IS THE &ISCHERHAUS CAMPSITE !PRILn/CT /PPOSITE THE (AUPTBAHNHOF FRIENDLY "AHNHOF 0OST HOTEL .ATIONALSTRASSE WWWHOTEL BAHNHOF POSTCH n HAS PLEASANT ENSUITE ROOMS :APFENZIEHER (AUPTSTRASSE WWWZAPFENCH IS AN AMIABLE CAFÏ BAR WITH TERRACE CLOSED 3UN EVE WHILE 3EEGARTEN 0ROMENADEN STRASSE WWWSEEGARTENCH CLOSED -ON 3EPTn!PRIL ALSO CLOSED 4UES IS A HIGH CLASS RESTAURANT AT THE MARINA WITH SOPHISTICATED CUISINE FOR &R AND UP
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STRIPPED OF ITS DECORATION (E SAVED A STATUETTE OF *OHN THE "APTIST AND TOOK IT BACK TO (AGNAU FOR SAFEKEEPING 7HEN THE LAKE FROZE AGAIN SOME YEARS LATER HE REMEMBERED HIS JOURNEY AND BROUGHT THE STATUETTE BACK %VER SINCE THEN A FREEZING OF THE LAKE HAS PRECIPITATED A SOLEMN PROCESSION ACROSS THE ICE TO CARRY THE STATUETTE TO THE OPPOSITE SHORE )N -àNSTERLINGENS CLERGY AND VILLAGERS DELIVERED THE lGURINE TO (AGNAU WHERE IT REMAINED UNTIL THE HARSH WINTER OF WHEN THE ICE WAS SOLID ENOUGH TO RETURN IT TO -àNSTERLINGEN CHURCH 4HERE IT STILL SITS IN THE CRYPT A COPY IS ON DISPLAY AWAITING THE NEXT ICY SPELL
3PNBOTIPSOBOEBSPVOE !LONG THE SHORE IS 2/-!.3(/2. A RUN OF THE MILL LAKESIDE RESORT ARRIVAL POINT FOR BOATS FROM &RIEDRICHSHAFEN ON THE 'ERMAN BANK OPPOSITE !BOUT KM EAST IS THE ANCIENT VILLAGE OF !2"/. REPUTEDLY THE POINT AT WHICH #OLUMBA AND 'ALLUS SEE P STEPPED ASHORE 7ALK LEFT FROM THE STATION FOR ABOUT TEN MINUTES TO REACH THE TRANQUIL CENTRE MARKED BY THE SPIRE OF THE +IRCHE 3T -ARTIN WITH IN ITS GROUNDS THE TINY ELEVENTH CENTURY 'ALLUSKA PELLE !DJACENT IS THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY 3CHLOSS !RBON HOUSING A PLEASANT LITTLE RESTAURANT WWWZUMSCHLOSSCH CLOSED 3UN 4HE OLD STREETS NEARBY HOLD A NUMBER OF HALF TIMBERED BUILDINGS MOST SEVENTEENTH OR EIGHTEENTH CENTURY ON +APELLGASSE IS A CHAPEL BUILT IN BUT DECONSECRATED IN AND NOW DAUBED WITH GRAFlTI
3PSTDIBDI ! COUPLE OF HOURS WALK SOUTHEAST OF !RBON THE PLEASANT LAKESIDE RESORT OF 2/23#(!#( OCCUPIES A BAY BELOW THE GRASSY 2ORSCHACHERBERG KM FROM 3T 'ALLEN )T HAS THREE TRAIN STATIONS 4HE MAIN 2ORSCHACH (" (AUPTBAHNHOF IS AWKWARDLY LOCATED KM EAST OF THE HARBOUR AND TOWN CENTRE #OMING FROM 3T 'ALLEN TRAINS STOP lRST AT 2ORSCHACH 3TADT A SHORT WALK ABOVE THE HARBOUR 4RAINS FROM 2OMANSHORN THOUGH STOP lRST AT 2ORSCHACH (AFEN HARBOUR DIRECTLY ON THE LAKEFRONT ALONGSIDE THE OLD +ORNHAUS EMBLEM OF A ONCE THRIVING GRAIN TRADE BETWEEN 3T 'ALLEN AND 'ERMANY &ROM THE (AFENBAHNHOF (AUPTSTRASSE HEADS EAST mANKED BY lNE SIXTEENTH TO EIGHTEENTH CENTURY HOUSES WITH ATTRACTIVE ORIEL WINDOWS 4HE +OLUMBANSKIRCHE JUST OFF THE STREET IS A BROAD WHITE LATE "AROQUE CHURCH DEDICATED TO THE )RISH MONK #OLUMBA WITH MUCH GILDED GLITTER INSIDE ! RACK RAILWAY WWWAR BERGBAHNENCH WINDS UP FROM THE (AFENBAHNHOF TO THE HILL RESORT OF (EIDEN WHICH OFFERS VIEWS AND HIKING TRAILS !S WELL AS REGULAR "ODENSEE FERRIES THE LOCAL BOAT OPERATOR
WWWSCHIFFFAHRT RORSCHACHCH RUNS SHORT PLEASURE TRIPS TO 2HEINECK ON THE !USTRIAN BORDER JUST EAST OF TOWN 2ORSCHACHS TOURIST OFlCE IS OPPOSITE THE (AFENBAHNHOF (AUPTSTRASSE !PRILn/CT -ON nPM 4UESn&RI nAM nPM *UNEn3EPT ALSO 3AT AMnNOON .OVn-ARCH -ONn&RI nPM WWW TOURIST RORSCHACHCH 4HERES A PLEASANT () HOSTEL ON THE LAKE #HURERSTRASSE WWWYOUTHHOSTELCH !PRILn/CT DORM BEDS &R 4HE LAKEFRONT HOTEL -OZART M WEST OF THE (AFENBAHNHOF WWWMOZART RORSCHACHCH HAS COMFORTABLE RENOVATED ROOMS AND AN EXCEL LENT RESTAURANT FOR MIDPRICED DAILY MENUS AND CONVIVIAL 3UNDAY BRUNCHES !S A FOOTNOTE TO THE TOWN THE FAMOUS 2ORSCHACH )NK "LOT 4EST IN WHICH A SUBJECT UNDER THERAPY IS ASKED TO DESCRIBE THE IMAGES THEY SEE IN THE RANDOM SHAPE OF A BLOT WAS NAMED AFTER ITS DEVISER 3WISS PSYCHOLOGIST (ERMANN 2ORSCHACH (E WAS BORN IN !RBON IN BUT AS FAR AS RECORDS SHOW NEVER SET FOOT IN 2ORSCHACH ITSELF
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ENOUGH ALONE BUT THE ABBEY LIBRARY IS CELEBRATED AS 3WITZERLANDS lNEST SECULAR 2OCOCO INTERIOR AND CONTAINS A WORLD CLASS COLLECTION OF ANCIENT BOOKS AND MANUSCRIPTS 4PNFIJTUPSZ
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3T 'ALLEN OWES ITS EXISTENCE TO THE RELIGIOUS COMMUNITY WHICH REMAINS AT ITS CORE )N AROUND THE )RISH MONK 'ALLUS n A FOLLOWER OF #OLUMBA n WAS TRAVELLING SOUTH FROM THE "ODENSEE INTO THE FOREST ,EGEND HAS IT THAT HE EITHER FELL OVER OR STUMBLED INTO A BRIAR PATCH OR TOLD A BEAR TO FETCH SOME lREWOOD WHEREUPON IT OBEYED WHICHEVER 'ALLUS FELT HE HAD RECEIVED A SIGN FROM 'OD AND SO CHOSE THAT SPOT TO BUILD HIS HERMITAGE )N THE EIGHTH CENTURY A FOLLOWER NAMED /TMAR ESTABLISHED A MONASTIC COMMUNITY AROUND 'ALLUSS CELL AND FOUNDED A SCHOOL OF SCRIBES AND TRANSLATORS )N THE S !BBOT 'OZBERT ESTAB LISHED THE GREAT LIBRARY AND 3T 'ALLENS REPUTATION AS A CENTRE OF CULTURE AND LEARNING GREW "Y THE THIRTEENTH CENTURY 3T 'ALLEN HAD BECOME AN IMPORTANT MARKET TOWN AND ITS REPUTATION AS A CENTRE OF LEARNING WAS BEING SUPERSEDED BY ITS REPUTATION AS A PRODUCER AND EXPORTER OF HIGH QUALITY LINEN "Y THE END OF THE -IDDLE !GES IT WAS THE ONLY 3WISS TOWN TO HAVE TRADE REPRESENTATIVES RESIDENT IN FOREIGN CITIES AND WAS LINKED BY STAGECOACH TO CENTRES OF TEXTILE PROCESSING IN .UREMBERG AND ,YON )N *OACHIM VON 7ATT n KNOWN AS 6ADIAN n INTRODUCED THE 2EFORMA TION SPARKING ICONOCLASTIC RIOTS WHICH FORCED THE MONKS TEMPORARILY TO mEE THE ABBEY SURVIVED HOWEVER AS AN INDEPENDENT #ATHOLIC WALLED ENCLAVE WITHIN THE 0ROTESTANT CITY )N THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY 3T 'ALLENS WEAVERS SWITCHED TO THE NEW FASHION FOR HAND EMBROIDERY BY SOME WOMEN WERE WORKING FROM HOME TO EMBROIDER COTTON AND MUSLIN FOR EXPORT n NOTABLY TO THE YOUNG 5NITED 3TATES 4HE INVENTION OF EMBROIDERY MACHINES BROUGHT A GOLDEN AGE ALTHOUGH PRODUCTION REMAINED CENTRED IN THE HOME "Y EMBROIDERY WAS 3WITZERLANDS LARGEST EXPORT INDUSTRY WITH 3T 'ALLEN ACCOUNTING FOR AROUND HALF OF THE ENTIRE WORLD PRODUCTION OF TEXTILES 4HESE DAYS THAT lGURE IS DOWN TO JUST PERCENT BUT 3WISS EMBROIDERY REMAINS A HIGHLY VALUED LUXURY COMMODITY WITH SMALL HIGHLY SPECIALIZED COMPANIES SUPPLYING DESIGNS AND lNISHED PRODUCTS TO HAUTE COUTURE FASHION HOUSES ,ACOSTES FAMOUS CROCODILE LOGO FOR INSTANCE IS 3WISS EMBROIDERED .ONETHELESS 3T 'ALLENS EMBROIDERY INDUSTRY n NOW ALMOST ENTIRELY COMPUTERIZED n STILL RELIES ON TWO THOUSAND LOCAL WOMEN WORKING FROM HOME HAND SEWING DETAILING THAT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO ACHIEVE BY MACHINE
"SSJWBM JOGPSNBUJPOBOEBDDPNNPEBUJPO 3T 'ALLENS TRAIN STATION IS M SOUTHWEST OF THE /LD 4OWN WITH THE TOURIST OFlCE ACROSS THE SQUARE AT "AHNHOFPLATZ A -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMn PM -AYn/CT 3AT UNTIL PM WWWSTGALLEN BODENSEE CH 3TAFF CAN SUPPLY INFORMATION ON THE WHOLE /STSCHWEIZ REGION AND RUN AN EXCELLENT TWO HOUR GUIDED WALKING TOUR -AYn/CT -ONn3AT PM *ULY !UG ALSO 3UN PM &R INCLUDES ADMISSION FEES AND A DRINK 4HE /PEN!IR POP FESTIVAL WWWOPENAIRSGCH ON THE LAST WEEKEND IN *UNE PULLS IN A VARIED RANGE OF INTERNATIONAL PERFORMERS FROM 6AN -ORRISON TO -ETALLICA !CCOM MODATION INCLUDES A CLUTCH OF BUSINESS HOTELS AT THE STATION AND A FEW MORE CHARACTERFUL CHOICES
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3T 'ALLENS /LD 4OWN IS ROUGHLY CIRCULAR CROSSED BY THE MAIN PEDESTRIAN STREETS OF 6ADIANSTRASSE-ULTERGASSE LEADING EAST FROM THE STATION AND -ARKTGASSE RUNNING SOUTH FROM -ARKTPLATZ A HUB FOR BUSES AND SHOPPERS 4HE ATTRACTIVE STREETS AND ALLEYS ARE ADORNED WITH ELABORATE ORIELS OR SMALL PROJECTING BAY WINDOWS MOST OF WHICH ARE YOUNGER THAN THE HOUSES TO WHICH THEYRE ATTACHED A FASHION FOR THEM IN THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY MEANT THAT MANY WERE CARVED FROM WOOD PAINTED AND THEN STUCK ONTO THE STONE FACADE TO SATISFY THE WHIM OF THE NOUVEAU RICHE MERCHANT WHO LIVED WITHIN 3OME OF THE lNEST CAN BE FOUND AT 3CHMIEDGASSE (OUSE OF THE 0ELICAN AND (OUSE OF 3TRENGTH +UGELGASSE (OUSE OF THE "ALL AND (OUSE OF THE 3WAN (INTERLAUBEN (OUSE OF THE $EEP #ELLAR AND 3PISERGASSE THE #AMEL /RIEL !LONG 'ALLUSSTRASSE YOULL ALSO lND HALF TIMBERED COTTAGES FROM THE -IDDLE !GES RUBBING SHOULDERS WITH "AROQUE TOWN HOUSES AND GRAND NINETEENTH CENTURY DWELLINGS PUT UP DURING 3T 'ALLENS GOLDEN AGE OF TEXTILE PRODUCTION 4HE 4EXTILMUSEUM 6ADIANSTRASSE -ONn3AT AMnNOON nPM 3UN AMnPM &R 3-0 WWWTEXTILMUSEUMCH HAS AN INTERESTING AND WELL PRESENTED COLLECTION FOCUSING ON HANDMADE EMBROIDERY AND LACE ALONG WITH EXPLANATIONS OF THE GROWTH AND DECLINE IN THE INDUSTRY LOCALLY 4HE TALL STEEPLED 3T ,AURENZENKIRCHE ON -ARKTGASSE -ON nAM nPM 4UESn3AT
AMnPM DATES FROM THE NINTH CENTURY AND ORIGINALLY STOOD WITHIN THE MONASTIC ENCLOSURE OF THE CATHEDRAL AND ABBEY 2ENOVATED IN .EO 'OTHIC STYLE IN THE MID NINETEENTH CENTURY AND RESTORED IN THE S ACCORDING TO THE PLANS IT HAS A NARROW LOFTY NAVE mANKED BY 'OTHIC POINTED SIDE ARCHES 5IFDBUIFESBM
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3T 'ALLENS GIANT "AROQUE CATHEDRAL -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM IS UNMISSABLE ITS TWIN TOWERS VISIBLE FROM MOST POINTS $ESIGNED BY ONE 0ETER 4HUMB FROM "REGENZ IT WAS COMPLETED IN AFTER JUST TWELVE YEARS WORK %ASIEST ACCESS IS THROUGH THE WEST DOOR ON 'ALLUSSTRASSE ALTHOUGH ITS WORTH MAKING YOUR WAY THROUGH THE CHURCH AND OUT INTO THE ENCLOSED +LOSTERHOF AT THE HEART OF THE COMPLEX WHERE YOU CAN GAZE UP AT THE SOARING EAST FACADE 4O THE LEFT IS THE PALACE WING STILL THE RESIDENCE OF THE "ISHOP OF 3T 'ALLEN 4HE INTERIOR IS VAST A BROAD BRIGHTLY LIT WHITE BASILICA WITH THREE NAVES AND A CENTRAL CUPOLA !LTHOUGH NOT ESPECIALLY HIGH IT HAS A SENSE OF HUGE DEPTH AND BREADTH THANKS TO ITS ACCOMPLISHED ARCHITECTURE FROM THE SANDSTONE OF THE mOOR AND WOOD OF THE PEWS FANCIFUL LIGHT GREEN STUCCOWORK n CHARACTERISTIC OF CHURCHES IN THE +ONSTANZ REGION n DRAWS YOUR EYE UP THE MASSIVE DOUBLE WIDTH PILLARS TO THE ARRAY OF FRESCOES ON THE CEILING WHICH ARE ALMOST ENTIRELY THE WORK OF ONE ARTIST *OSEF 7ANNENMACHER !BOVE THE WESTERN END OF THE NAVE IS A PANEL SHOWING -ARY SURROUNDED BY ANGELS 4HE CENTRAL CUPOLA SHOWS PARADISE WITH THE (OLY 4RINITY APOSTLES AND SAINTS $ETAILS THROUGHOUT THE REST OF THE CATHEDRAL ARE SPLENDID THE LAVISH MOCK TASSELLED PULPIT THE ORNATE CHOIR SCREEN THE RICHLY CARVED WALNUT WOOD CONFESSIONALS THE INTRICATE CHOIR STALLS AND FAR AWAY AT THE BACK OF THE CHOIR THE HIGH ALTAR mANKED BY BLACK MARBLE COLUMNS WITH GOLD TRIM 4HE SOUTH ALTAR FEATURES A BELL BROUGHT BY 'ALLUS ON HIS SEVENTH CENTURY JOURNEY FROM )RELAND ONE OF THE THREE OLDEST SURVIVING BELLS IN %UROPE 5IFBCCFZMJCSBSZ 4UJGUTCJCMJPUIFL
7ITHIN THE SAME COMPLEX OF BUILDINGS AS THE CATHEDRAL AND JUST ADJACENT TO IT IS THE ABBEY LIBRARY 3TIFTSBIBLIOTHEK -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM $ECn-ARCH CLOSED NOONnPM CLOSED FOR WEEKS IN LATE .OV &R 3-0 WWWSTIBICH ONE OF THE OLDEST LIBRARIES IN %UROPE AND FAMOUS BOTH FOR ITS SUPERB "AROQUE INTERIOR AND FOR ITS HUGE COLLECTION OF RARE AND UNIQUE MEDIEVAL BOOKS AND MANUSCRIPTS 9OU ENTER BENEATH A SIGN READING ^[]NYPIZXLPVT PSYCHES IATREION 'REEK FOR h0HARMACY OF THE 3OULv 2ANGED BESIDE ARE DOZENS OF OVERSIZED FELT SLIPPERS SLIP YOUR SHOED FEET INTO A PAIR TO SAVE THE INLAID WOODEN mOOR OF THE LIBRARY FROM SCUFlNG 4HE BY METRE ROOM IS ACCLAIMED AS 3WITZERLANDS lNEST EXAMPLE OF A "AROQUE SECULAR INTERIOR AND THE lRST GLIMPSE OF IT AS YOU ENTER IS DIZZYING $ESIGNED BY THE SAME 0ETER 4HUMB WHO WORKED ON THE CATHE DRAL THE LIBRARY DATES FROM SLIGHTLY LATER ITS ORTHODOX "AROQUE ARCHITECTURE IS OVERLAID WITH THE OPULENT DECORATION OF THE 2OCOCO PERIOD WHICH THEN HELD SWAY 4HE FOUR CEIL ING FRESCOES BY *OSEF 7ANNENMACHER DEPICT WITH BOLD TROMPE LOEIL PERSPECTIVES THE EARLY #HRISTIAN THEOLOGICAL COUNCILS OF .ICAEA ©5 4HE©ABBEY©LIBRARY ©3T©'ALLEN
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#ONSTANTINOPLE %PHESUS AND #HALCEDON !MONGST THE WEALTH OF SMALLER FRES COES SET AMONGST THE CEILING STUCCO IN THE FAR SOUTHEAST CORNER YOULL SPOT 4HE 6ENERABLE "EDE A SEVENTH CENTURY %NGLISH MONK FROM .ORTHUMBRIA WHO WROTE ONE OF THE lRST HISTORIES OF %NGLAND HE IS SHOWN AS A SCHOLAR WITH BESIDE HIM A MAGIC NUMBER SQUARE 4HIS FOUR BY FOUR SEQUENCE WHERE THE NUMBERS ADD UP TO HORIZONTALLY VERTICALLY DIAGONALLY AND FROM THE FOUR CORNERS IS THOUGHT TO HAVE BEEN INVENTED BY 0YTHAGORAS IN ANCIENT 'REECE BUT TOOK ON A NEW MYSTICAL POWER FOR EARLY #HRISTIANS WHO UNDERSTOOD #HRIST TO HAVE DIED AT YEARS OF AGE 4HE BOOKS ARE RANGED ON mOOR TO CEILING SHELVES ALL AROUND ORIGINALLY ORGAN IZED BY SUBJECT INDICATED BY THE CHERUBS AT THE HEAD OF CAPITALS AROUND THE LIBRARY BUT NOW ARRANGED ALPHABETICALLY )NSIDE THE RECESSED PANELS BETWEEN EACH BOOKCASE ARE REGISTERS OF BOOKS IN THE NEARBY SHELVES WITH SPACE TO LEAVE YOUR NAME THE LIBRARY STILL OPERATES AS AN ORDINARY LENDING LIBRARY AND STUDY CENTRE WITH SOME VOLUMES FOCUSED ON THE -IDDLE !GES )TS LIST OF CULTURAL TREASURES IS EXTRAORDINARY 4HERE ARE MORE )RISH MANUSCRIPTS IN 3T 'ALLEN THAN THERE ARE IN $UBLIN lFTEEN HANDWRITTEN EXAMPLES INCLUDING A ,ATIN MANUSCRIPT OF THE 'OSPELS DATING FROM /THER WORKS INCLUDE AN ASTRONOMICAL TEXTBOOK WRITTEN IN "# COPIES MADE IN THE lFTH CENTURY OF WORKS BY 6IRGIL (ORACE AND OTHER CLASSICAL AUTHORS TEXTS WRITTEN BY "EDE IN HIS ORIGINAL .ORTHUMBRIAN LANGUAGE AND THE OLDEST BOOK TO HAVE SURVIVED IN 'ERMAN DATING FROM THE EIGHTH CENTURY 6ARIOUS OF THESE AND OTHER TREASURES OF THE LIBRARYS UPSTAIRS MANUSCRIPT ROOM NO PUBLIC ACCESS ARE DISPLAYED IN GLASS CASES DOTTED AROUND THE MAIN LIBRARY AREA !N ANCIENT %GYPTIAN MUMMY IN THE LIBRARY DATES FROM "# AND WAS A GIFT TO THE MAYOR OF 3T 'ALLEN IN THE EARLY NINETEENTH CENTURY UNSURE OF WHAT TO DO WITH THE THING HE PLONKED IT IN THIS CORNER WHERE IT HAS SAT INCONGRUOUSLY EVER SINCE
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4HE RESIDENTS OF !PPENZELLERLAND ARE THE BUTT OF MANY A 3WISS JOKE REGARDED BY COSMOPOLITAN URBANITES AS COUNTRY BUMPKINS AND MERCILESSLY MOCKED FOR THEIR FOLKSY WAYS 9ET ALTHOUGH A SOPHISTICATED ,AUSANNOIS OR "ASLER MIGHT CHORTLE TO HEAR IT THIS RUSTIC REGION IS SOMETHING OF A SENSUOUS DELIGHT AS YOU CROSS THE VERDANT HILLS SOUTH FROM 3T 'ALLEN THE PUNGENT SMELLS OF COWS AND CHEESE ASSAULT YOUR NOSE ON A WANDER THROUGH THE VILLAGES BUSY EMBROIDERY AND THE FUSSILY NET CURTAINED WINDOWS OF WOODEN HOUSES DELIGHT THE EYE AND LOCAL COOKING PARTICULARLY RICH WITH BUTTER AND CREAM HAS A DELICIOUS SILKINESS ON THE TONGUE %NCIRCLED BY ROLLING HILLS WITH THE SNOWY PEAKS OF THE !LPSTEIN RIDGES TO THE SOUTH !PPENZELL HAS FOR CENTURIES BEEN A LAND APART -ONKS FROM 3T 'ALLEN COLONIZED THE AREA IN THE TENTH CENTURY CALLING IT !BTSZELL h!BBEY #ELLv BUT THE lERCELY INDEPENDENT LOCAL PEASANTRY THREW OFF ECCLESIASTICAL CONTROL IN A SERIES OF WARS IN THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY !LTHOUGH SURROUNDED BY 3T 'ALLENS TERRITORY !PPENZELL JOINED THE 3WISS #ONFEDERATION IN LONG BEFORE ITS MORE POWERFUL NEIGHBOUR 3HORTLY AFTERWARDS IT SPLIT INTO TWO TINY AUTONOMOUS HALF CANTONS n 0ROTESTANT !PPENZELL !USSERRHODEN ABBREVIATED TO h!2v AND #ATHOLIC !PPENZELL )NNERRHODEN h!)v &OR TOURISTIC PURPOSES THE TWO HALF CANTONS ARE TOGETHER DUBBED h!PPENZELLERLANDv BUT THE DIVISIONS BETWEEN THEM REMAIN TO THIS DAY WITH !USSERRHODENS DYNAMIC ECONOMY BASED ON MANUFACTURING INDUSTRY AND )NNERRHODENS SLOWER ONE BASED ON TOURISM AND THE PRESERVATION OF TRADITIONAL CULTURE !PPENZELL VILLAGE CAPITAL OF )NNERRHODEN THE LEAST POPULOUS 3WISS CANTON IS THE MAIN DRAW FOR ITS QUAINT TRADITIONAL AIR n PRESERVED EVEN AMIDST THE HIGH SEASON DAY TRIPPERS /THER THAN 3TEINS EXCELLENT MUSEUM AND SHOW DAIRY SURROUNDING VILLAGES HOLD FEW ATTRACTIONS BUT THERES PLENTY OF GOOD HILL WALKING
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4HE MAIN STREET OF !00%.:%,, KM SOUTH OF 3T 'ALLEN IS CAR FREE (AUPT GASSE RUNNING FROM A BRIDGE OVER THE 2IVER 3ITTER AT THE ENTRANCE TO THE VILLAGE WEST FOR M OR SO TO THE BROAD OPEN ,ANDSGEMEINDEPLATZ ITS WORTH WANDERING ALONG TO ADMIRE THE INTRICATELY PAINTED OLD WOODEN HOUSES n NOTABLY ,ÚWEN $ROGERIE A PHARMACY AT NO n WITH THEIR ROWS OF SMALL CLOSELY PACKED WINDOWS $URING THE NINETEENTH CENTURY THE EMBROIDERY INDUSTRY OF NEARBY 3T 'ALLEN RELIED UPON THOUSANDS OF WOMEN WORKING BY HAND FROM HOME WITH THE INTRICATE WORK OF !PPENZELL PARTICULARLY HIGHLY PRIZED THE UPSTAIRS ROOMS IN THESE BUILDINGS mOODED BY DAYLIGHT THROUGH THE LINES OF WINDOWS WERE USED AS WORKSHOPS (AND EMBROIDERY mOURISHED INTO THE lRST HALF OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY AND IS STILL CARRIED ON BY A FEW SPECIALISTS HERE AND THERE WITH WORK SHOPS OFTEN LOCATED ON CHARACTERFUL BACK ALLEYS )N THE SAME BUILDING AS THE TOURIST OFlCE IS THE !PPENZELL -USEUM (AUPT GASSE !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnNOON nPM .OVn-ARCH 4UESn3UN nPM &R 3-0 WWWMUSEUMAICH 4HIS INTERESTING EXHIBITION OF LOCAL CRAFTS IS SPREAD OUT OVER SIX mOORS SPILLING OVER ONTO THE UPPER mOORS OF THE ARCADED 2ATHAUS NEXT DOOR HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDE MANY EXAMPLES OF !PPENZELL HAND EMBROIDERY AS WELL AS MILITARIA FROM #LAUX #ASTLE THE RUINS OF WHICH ARE VISIBLE ON A NEARBY HILLTOP $ONT MISS THE SHORT VIDEOS SHOWN ON DEMAND IN A VIEWING ROOM ON THE GROUND mOOR THE ONE ON LOCAL MUSICAL TRADITIONS IS ESPECIALLY GOOD ! FEW STEPS AWAY IS THE CHURCH OF 3T -AURITIUS MUCH MORE ORNATE THAN YOU WOULD EXPECT FOR A COUNTRY VILLAGE ITS "AROQUE INTERIOR THE HIGH ALTAR mANKED BY GOLD lGURES IS ODDLY ASYMMETRICAL -USEUM ,INER STANDS ON THE EDGE OF THE VILLAGE 5NTERRAINSTRASSE !PRILn /CT 4UESn&RI AMnNOON nPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM .OVn-ARCH 4UESn3AT nPM 3UN AMnPM &R 3-0 WWWMUSEUMLINERCH 4HIS GALLERY DEVOTED TO THE WORK OF FATHER AND SON LOCAL ARTISTS #ARL !UGUST ,INER AND #ARL 7ALTER ,INER IS INTERESTING MAINLY FOR ITS BOLDLY CONCEIVED DESIGN IN STEEL BY THE :àRICH PARTNERSHIP OF !NNETTE 'IGON AND -IKE 'UYER %XHIBITIONS OF THE ,INERS UNINSPIRING MODERNISTIC ART ARE MADE MORE APPEALING BY ADDI TIONAL EXHIBITS OF 3WISS CONTEMPORARY WORKS
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7ALKING IN THE PRETTY COUNTRYSIDE AROUND !PPENZELL CAN BE REWARDING WITH INNS AND GUESTHOUSES DOTTING THE LANDSCAPE n SO MANY THAT YOU COULD WALK FOR DAYS FROM INN TO INN WITHOUT ENCOUNTERING A TOWN AND WITHOUT HAVING TO CARRY FOOD 4HE !PPENZELL TOURIST OFlCE HAS PLENTY OF MAPS TRAIL GUIDES AND MOUNTAIN BIKE ROUTES INCLUDING DETAILS OF "ARFUSS DURCHS !PPENZELLERLAND A TRAIL WHICH YOU CAN FOLLOW BAREFOOT THROUGH GRASSY MEADOWS FROM !PPENZELL VILLAGE UP TO 'ONTEN A COUPLE OF HOURS WEST SCENE OF *UNES CANTONAL 3CHWINGEN TRADITIONAL WRESTLING CHAMPIONSHIPS -OST HIKING TRAILS ARE CRAMMED INTO AND AROUND THE NARROW VALLEYS SANDWICHED BETWEEN THE THREE GREAT ROCK WALLS OF THE !LPSTEIN RANGE 4HE SMALL VILLAGE OF 7ASSERAUEN A SHORT TRAIN RIDE OR A COUPLE OF HOURS WALK SOUTH OF !PPENZELL IS THE BASE STATION FOR A CABLE CAR RUNNING UP TO %"%.!,0 WWWEBENALPCH M FROM WHERE A HIGH LEVEL ROUTE TAKES YOU lVE HOURS ALONG THE RIDGE TO THE 3ËNTIS !NOTHER ROUTE FROM 7ASSERAUEN RUNS UP FOR AN HOUR INTO THE NARROW VALLEY OF THE BEAUTIFUL 3%%!,03%% M 4HIS ISOLATED TARN IS THE SITE OF A CELEBRATED ANNUAL FOLKLORIC FESTIVAL WHICH CULMINATES IN A YODELLING OF -ASS ON !SSUMPTION $AY MORNING !UG WWWHOBBYSAENGERCH 4HE ATTRACTIVE "ERGGASTHAUS &ORELLE ON THE LAKESHORE WWWGASTHAUSFORELLE CH !PRILn/CT HAS COMFORTABLE TRADITIONAL STYLE ROOMS AS WELL AS DORMS WHILE AROUND THE LAKE IS THE SIMPLER "ERGGASTHAUS 3EEALPSEE WWWSEEALPSEECH !PRILn/CT "OTH HAVE TERRACE TABLES AT WHICH TO ENJOY SUCCULENTLY PREPARED LAKE lSH "EYOND 3EEALPSEE A TWO HOUR TRAIL HAIRPINS ITS WAY STEEPLY UP TO TRANQUIL -%',)3!,0 M WITH ITS OWN RUSTIC "ERG GASTHAUS -EGLISALP WWWMEGLISALPCH -AYn/CT FOCUS OF A WEEKEND OF FOLKLORIC DANCING IN LATE *ULY !PPENZELLS MOST FAMOUS PEAK IS THE 3ËNTIS M WELL BELOW THE PROPOR TIONS OF THE !LPS BUT NONETHELESS THE HIGHEST POINT FOR MILES AROUND 4RAINS RUN FROM !PPENZELL TO THE SMALL TOWN OF 5RNËSCH DEPARTURE POINT FOR HOURLY BUSES WHICH FOLLOW A WINDING ROAD UP TO 3CHWËGALP FROM WHERE A CABLE CAR &R RETURN WWWSAENTISBAHNCH RISES TO THE 3ËNTIS SUMMIT 4HIS IS A POPULAR DAY TRIP ESPECIALLY IN SUMMER IF YOURE STAYING FOR LUNCH YOUD DO BEST TO AIM FOR THE OLDER MORE ATMOSPHERIC "ERGGASTHAUS ON TOP WWWBERGGASTHAUS SAENTIS CH RATHER THAN THE NEWER CANTEEN STYLE DINER n BOTH THOUGH HAVE TERRACES OFFERING SPECTACULAR PANORAMAS &ROM THE SUMMIT ITS AN EASY THREE AND A HALF HOUR HIKE ALONG TO %BENALP FROM WHERE THERES TRANSPORT BACK TO !PPENZELL 4UFJO
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3OME KM SOUTH OF 4HUSIS THE MAIN ROAD PLUNGES INTO A RAVINE WITH SHEER ROCK WALLS BARELY M APART RISING SOME M FROM THE BED OF THE FOAMING (INTERRHEIN 4HIS 6IA -ALA %VIL 2OAD WAS lRST CONSTRUCTED IN VARI OUS IMPROVEMENTS SINCE THEN RESULTING IN A WEB OF BRIDGES SPANNING THE GORGE !T ONE POINT YOU CAN DESCEND STEPS TO THE VALLEY mOOR TO SEE BOTH THE ANCIENT ORIGINAL ROAD AND THE BRIDGES LINED UP WAY OVERHEAD DAILY -AYn/CT AMnPM -ARCH !PRIL .OV AMnPM &R WWWTHUSIS VIAMALACH 3EE ALSO WWWVIASPLUGACOM FOR DETAILS OF HIKES IN THE AREA 4HE GORGE OPENS UP KM FURTHER AT THE FARMING VILLAGE OF :),,)3 :IRÌN IN 2OMANSH WHOSE SMALL +IRCHE 3T -ARTIN "ASELGIA 3ONTG -ARTEGN WWW ZILLIS ST MARTINCH n SPORTING A HUGE EXTERNAL MURAL OF 3T #HRISTOPHER PATRON SAINT OF TRAVELLERS n HAS A REMARKABLE TWELFTH CENTURY WOODEN CEILING DIVIDED INTO PAINTED PANELS THERES A STACK OF MIRRORS BY THE DOOR TO SAVE YOU CRICK ING YOUR NECK !ROUND THE EDGE RUNS A DEPICTION OF THE SEA WITH ANGELS IN THE CORNERS REPRESENTING THE FOUR WINDS 4HE INTERIOR PANELS FEATURE STORIES FROM THE
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4DVPMBOEBSPVOE 4HE DRAMATIC ROAD FROM $AVOS OVER THE ICY &LàELA 0ASS DROPS DOWN INTO THE %NGADINE AT 3USCH A PERFECT INTRODUCTION TO THE VALLEY ITS COBBLED ALLEYS lLLED WITH THE RUSHING NOISE OF THE 2IVER )NN 3ET PICTURESQUELY AMIDST ITS SGRAFlTIED HOUSES IS THE "ASELGIA 3AN *ON WITH ONE TOWER 2OMANESQUE THE OTHER LATE 'OTHIC 4O THE EAST BEYOND THE RUINED HILLTOP CASTLE OF #HASCHINAS REARS THE GIANT 0IZ !RPIGLIAS M 4HE ROAD TO 3CUOL CONTINUES THROUGH TREMENDOUS SCENERY BETWEEN THE HIGH WOODED VALLEY WALLS PAST A STRING OF ALLURING LITTLE VILLAGES 3OME KM NORTHEAST OF 3USCH ON A LOFTY PERCH ABOVE THE RIVER 'UARDA IS ESPECIALLY ATTRACTIVE ITS ARCHITECTURE AND TRADITIONAL SGRAFlTI MERITING A FEDERAL ORDER OF PROTECTION *UST BEYOND !RDEZ AND &TAN ARE BOTH EQUALLY WORTHY OF A STOP 3OME KM EAST OF 3USCH THE LIVELY TOWN OF 3#5/, PRONOUNCED SHKWOL KNOWN AS 3CHULS IN 'ERMAN IS BEAUTIFULLY LOCATED IN A SUNNY OPEN PART OF THE VALLEY AT THE END OF THE TRAIN LINE )TS REPUTATION IS BUILT ON ITS HISTORY AS A SPA TOWN AND THE MAIN DRAW TODAY IS THE PRISTINE MODERN "OGN %NGIADINA COMPLEX %NGADINE 3PA DAILY AMnPM WWWSCUOLCH &R )T HAS A RANGE OF WARM AND HOT POOLS AND OFFERS TREATMENTS INCLUDING SAUNAS MASSAGES AND &INNISH BATHS !LTERNATIVELY YOU CAN OPT FOR THE WORKS WARM AND HOT ROOMS VAPOUR BATHS MASSAGES MINERAL PLUNGE POOLS AND A HEAVENLY TWO HOUR SESSION IN THE 2OMAN )RISH BATHS RESERVE ONE DAY AHEAD &R 9OULL SEE h"ADEKOMBIv DAY PACKAGES TO THE SPA ADVERTISED WIDELY TAKING IN TRAIN TRANS PORT OFTEN ON THE !QUALINO TRAIN BUS TRANSFERS AND ADMISSION FOR &Rn
FROM $AVOS +LOSTERS OR 3T -ORITZ &R FROM #HUR "EHIND THE SPA QUIET STREETS HEAD DOWN INTO 3CUOLS PRETTY /LD 4OWN lLLED WITH TRADITIONAL HOUSES TINKLING FOUNTAINS AND A PHOTOGENIC VILLAGE SQUARE 4HE VIEW OF #HASTE 4ARASP 4ARASP #ASTLE ON THE OPPOSITE BANK IS NOW OVERSHADOWED BY A MODERN HOTEL THE VIEW FROM &TAN IS BETTER 4HE -OTTA .ALUNS SKI AREA M WITH LIFTS UP TO M OFFERS PLENTY OF EASY AND INTERMEDIATE RUNS INCLUDING LONG REDS FROM 0IZ #HAMPATSCH KM BACK DOWN TO 3CUOL AND PLENTY FOR SNOWBOARDERS 1SBDUJDBMJUJFT
%AST OF 3CUOL POSTBUSES PENETRATE TO THE !USTRIAN BORDER AND ON TO ,ANDECK *UST BEFORE THE FRONTIER A MINOR ROAD CURLS BACK TO CLIMB INTO AN ISOLATED SIDE VALLEY AT THE END OF WHICH SITS 'ERMAN SPEAKING 3!-.!5. M A DUTY FREE AREA AND SO CRAMMED WITH BANKS SHOPS AND CUT PRICE PETROL STATIONS ALL OPEN LONG HOURS )N WINTER 3AMNAUNS SNOW FACILITIES n WHICH INCLUDE THE WORLDS ONLY DOUBLE DECKER CABLE CAR n LINK IN WITH THE NETWORK OF PISTES ABOVE THE !USTRIAN RESORT OF )SCHGL ON THE OTHER SIDE OF A WALL OF M PEAKS TAKING IN %UROPES SINGLE LARGEST SNOWBOARDING AREA A SIX DAY 6)0 PASS VALID ON BOTH RESORTS LIFTS IS &R 3AMNAUN $ORF TOURIST OFlCE WWW SAMNAUNCH HAS FULL DETAILS 4HE BEST OF THE SUMMER HIKES FROM 3AMNAUN IS A TOUGH MULTI DAY TRAIL TO )SCHGL OVER THE :EBLASJOCH 0ASS
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4HE VALLEY HAS PLENTY OF PLACES TO STAY )N &TAN ARE THE CHARMING %NGIADINA WWWENGIADINA FTANCH o AND THE SUPERB MODERN STYLED (AUS 0ARADIES WWWPARADIESHOTELCH o "OTH HAVE OUTSTANDING RESTAURANTS THE LATTER WITH TWO -ICHELIN STARS -ORE MODEST AND REMARKABLY GOOD VALUE IS THE 0IZ "UIN AT THE EDGE OF 'UARDA VILLAGE WWWPIZBUINCH A MEMBER OF THE h3ILENCEv GROUP #ROSS THE RIVER FROM !RDEZ ON A COVERED WOODEN BRIDGE TO 3ENT LOCATION OF THE ULTIMATE IN TRANQUIL CAMPSITES 3UR %N OPEN YEAR ROUND 3CUOLS TRAIN STATION IS OVER KM WEST OF THE CENTRE WHICH IS A BUS RIDE OR A TEN MINUTE DOWNHILL WALK AWAY 4HE TOURIST OFlCE IS ON 3TRADUN -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM 3AT AMnNOON nPM 3UN AMnNOON SHORTER HOURS IN OFF SEASON WWWSCUOLCH 3CUOLS MAIN DRAG HAS PLENTY OF ORDINARY HOTELS BUT THERE ARE A COUPLE OF TRADITIONAL SGRAFlTIED GEMS ON 0LAZ THE OLD VILLAGE SQUARE THE LOVELY 'ABRIEL 2ABLàZZA A WWWHOTEL GABRIELCH n CLOSED -AY .OV IS A RAMBLING OLD HOUSE WITH TERRACES AND ROOF GARDENS %NGIADINA 2ABLàZZA WWWENGIADINA SCUOLCH n CLOSED -AY .OV RETAINS ITS ORIEL WINDOWED EXTERIOR
1BSD/B[JVOBM4WJ[[FS 3OME KM SOUTH OF 3USCH SITS THE GRACEFUL LITTLE TOWN OF :%2.%: THE SLENDER WHITE STEEPLE OF ITS CHURCH MARKING A JUNCTION OF VALLEYS NORTH IS THE ,OWER %NGADINE SOUTH IS THE 5PPER %NGADINE WHILE TO THE EAST A ROAD LEADS THROUGH THE 0!2# .!:)5.!, 36)::%2 TO THE /FENPASS0ASS DAL &UORN AND ON INTO THE 6AL -àSTAIR !LTHOUGH ATTRACTIVE ENOUGH IN ITS OWN RIGHT :ERNEZ COMES INTO ITS OWN AS A STAGING POST FOR HIKES INTO THE PARK A PINT SIZED !LPINE WILDER NESS STRETCHING FOR SQUARE KILOMETRES EITHER SIDE OF THE /FEN&UORN ROAD %STABLISHED IN THE PARKS CREDO IS TO LEAVE NATURE WELL ALONE ABSOLUTELY EVERYTHING FROM THE TINIEST LICHEN TO THE BREEDING PAIRS OF GOLDEN EAGLES IS PROTECTED &OREST lRES ARE MONITORED BUT ALLOWED TO BURN INJURED ANIMALS ARE
LEFT TO THEIR OWN DEVICES AND ROAMING WARDENS WILL IMPOSE lNES SHOULD YOU SO MUCH AS PICK A mOWER 9OURE ALLOWED TO WALK IN THE PARK PROVIDED YOU DONT STEP OFF THE MARKED TRAILS BUT PROMINENT NOTICEBOARDS PUBLISH STRINGENT REGULATIONS PROHIBITING EVERYTHING FROM LITTERING TO MAKING LOUD NOISES n WITH THE RESULT THAT THE PARK REMAINS PRISTINE 2ED AND ROE DEER IBEX AND CHAMOIS ROAM FREELY AS DO HARES FOXES AND HUGE NUMBERS OF MARMOTS 7OLVES LYNXES AND BROWN BEARS ARE ALL PREDICTED TO RE ESTABLISH A PERMANENT PRESENCE IN THE AREA IN FORTHCOMING YEARS !SIDE FROM THE GOLDEN EAGLES THERE ARE ALSO BEARDED VULTURES KESTRELS RAVENS VARIOUS WOODPECKERS GROUSE PARTRIDGE AND SKYLARKS 4HE VENOMOUS NORTHERN VIPER OR ADDER IS ALSO AROUND BUT YOUD HAVE TO TIPTOE TO COME UPON ONE UNAWARES 0INE AND LARCH FORESTS GROW UP TO M BEYOND WHICH !LPINE MEADOWS ARE CARPETED IN SPRINGTIME WITH EDELWEISS GENTIANS AND A HOST OF OTHER HIGH ALTITUDE mOWERS &URTHER UP STILL ARE BARE ROCKY AREAS AND PERMAFROST "DDFTT JOGPSNBUJPOBOEBDDPNNPEBUJPO
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%NTRY TO THE PARK IS FREE )F YOURE DRIVING HEAD ALONG THE MAIN ROAD TO ANY ONE OF NINE FREE PARKING AREAS WITHIN THE PARK BOUNDARIES FROM ALL OF WHICH LONG AND SHORT TRAILS TWIST OUT TO NORTH AND SOUTH 0OSTBUSES RUNNING HOURLY BETWEEN :ERNEZ AND -àSTAIR ALSO STOP AT EACH PARKING AREA #YCLING IS PROHIB ITED IN THE PARK 4HE BEST PLACE FOR INFORMATION IS THE .ATIONAL 0ARK (OUSE LOCATED ABOUT KM EAST OF :ERNEZ AND OPEN THE SAME HOURS AS THE PARK ITSELF *UNEn/CT DAILY AMnPM 4UES UNTIL PM WWWNATIONALPARK CH 4HIS OFlCE IS OVERmOWING WITH MAPS TRAIL GUIDES INCLUDING COVERAGE OF MULTI DAY HIKES AND USEFUL INFORMATION ON ANIMAL SIGHTINGS ALL IN %NGLISH ! TOURIST OFlCE ON :ERNEZ MAIN STREET CAN ALSO HELP WITH MAPS AND GENERAL GUIDANCE -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM *ULYn/CT UNTIL PM PLUS 3AT AMnNOON nPM WWWZERNEZCH 4HERE ARE ONLY TWO PLACES TO STAY WITHIN THE .ATIONAL 0ARK BOTH OF WHICH NEED RESERVING IN ADVANCE (OTEL )L &UORN BESIDE 0ARKING WWWILFUORNCH n *UNEn/CT IS A COMFORTABLE OLD LODGE WITH SHARED BATH ROOMS AND HAS A NEWER WING WITH ENSUITE ROOMS )N THE MIDDLE OF THE PARK AT THE JUNCTION OF SEVERAL TRAILS IS #HAMANNA"LOCKHAUS #LUOZZA *UNEn/CT A SIMPLE HUT WITH DORM BEDS &R )N :ERNEZ THE CAMPSITE #UL IS M BEHIND THE STATION WWWCAMPING CULCH -AY TO MID /CT AND THERE ARE PLENTY OF HOTELS 3PÚL WWWHOTEL SPOELCH CLOSED .OV IS A CHARACTERFUL LOW END CHOICE WITHIN TEN MINUTES WALK OF THE PARK ENTRANCE !BOUT KM BEYOND :ERNEZ JUST OUTSIDE THE PARK BOUNDARY BEFORE 0ARKING IS .ATURFREUNDEHAUS /VA 3PIN WWWNFHOUSEORG DORMS &R *UNEn/CT 8BMLTJOUIF/BUJPOBM1BSL
4HERE ARE MARKED WALKING TRAILS IN AND AROUND THE PARK RANGING FROM FULL DAY MOUNTAIN ASCENTS TO BRIEF ROADSIDE STROLLS 4HE FOLLOWING ARE SOME OF THE MORE STRAIGHTFORWARD SCENIC ROUTES THAT HAVE EASY ACCESS AT EITHER END ALWAYS CHECK ON TRAIL CONDITIONS AT THE .ATIONAL 0ARK (OUSE BEFORE YOU START .OTE THAT ON HIGH SUMMER WEEKENDS IN PARTICULAR PATHS CAN GET CROWDED /NE OF THE BEST COULD INVOLVE OVERNIGHTING IN THE WILDS TRAIL HR LEADS FROM :ERNEZ INTO THE #LUOZZA GORGE DIRECTLY TO THE #HAMANNA #LUOZZA SEE ABOVE FROM WHERE TRAIL HR MIN BRINGS YOU OUT ON A DIFFERENT ROUTE VIA A STEEP ASCENT TO 0RASPÚL EMERGING AT 0ARKING h6ALLUN #HAFUOLv "OTH THESE CAN BE DONE IN REVERSE 4HE CIRCULAR TRAIL HR LEADS FROM 0ARKING THROUGH HEATHER AND
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!S YOU CREST THE /FENPASS0ASS DAL &UORN KM SOUTH OF :ERNEZ SPREAD OUT IN FRONT IS THE IDYLLIC 6AL -àSTAIR -àNSTERTAL IN 'ERMAN A LUSH PEACEFUL VALLEY POINTING THE WAY SOUTH INTO )TALY 4HIS lNGER OF 3WITZERLAND CUT OFF BY THE MOUN TAINS FROM THE REST OF 'RAUBàNDEN AND ENTIRELY SURROUNDED BY )TALY IS DETERMINEDLY 2OMANSH IN LANGUAGE AND CULTURE (ALF A DOZEN HAMLETS DOT THE GREEN SLOPES ON THE KM DESCENT TO 3ANTA -ARIA THE MAIN VILLAGE OF THE VALLEY WITH A 'OTHIC CHURCH JUST OFF ITS NARROW MAIN STREET (OWEVER THE CHIEF ATTRACTION IS -Ä34!)2 PRONOUNCED MOOSH TIRE KM FURTHER WHERE VIRTUALLY THE LAST BUILDINGS BEFORE THE )TALIAN FRONTIER ARE A #AROLINGIAN MONASTERY AND CHURCH THE #LAUSTRA 3ON *ON OR +LOSTERKIRCHE 3T *OHANN DAILY AMnPM WWWMUESTAIRCH 4HIS FUNCTION ING "ENEDICTINE CONVENT WAS REPUTEDLY FOUNDED BY #HARLEMAGNE HIMSELF AROUND !$ AND HAS BEEN NAMED A 5.%3#/ 7ORLD (ERITAGE 3ITE FOR THE ARRAY OF BRILLIANTLY COLOURED 2OMANESQUE FRESCOES ADORNING THE INTERIOR OF ITS MONASTERY CHURCH 4HE STYLE AND DETAIL OF THE FRESCOES WHICH DEPICT STORIES SUCH AS THE STON ING OF 3T 3TEPHEN AND THE $ANCE OF 3ALOME ARE BREATHTAKING AND THE ATMOSPHERE OF THE CHURCH ITS ADJACENT CEMETERY AND COBBLED COURTYARD MAKE THE JOURNEY WELL WORTHWHILE ! SMALL MUSEUM OFF THE COURTYARD HAS CHUNKS OF #AROLIN GIAN CARVING AND "AROQUE STATUES AND ICONS -AYn/CT -ONn3AT AMnNOON nPM 3UN nPM .OVn!PRIL -ONn3AT AMnNOON nPM 3UN nPM &R INCLUDING GUIDED TOUR -àSTAIR TOURIST OFlCE -AYn/CT -ONn3AT AMnPM 3UN nPM WWWVAL MUESTAIRCH HAS INFORMATION ON THE VALLEY )N 3ANTA -ARIA IS A CHARACTERFUL () HOSTEL #HASA 0LAZ WWW YOUTHHOSTELCH DORMS &R CLOSED !PRIL -AY .OV WHILE IN -àSTAIR THERES THE GOOD VALUE ,ANDGASTHOF -àNSTERHOF WWW MUENSTERHOFCH n ITS OLD ROOMS lLLED WITH ANTIQUES
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*UST KM n A HALF HOUR WALK n EAST OF 3T -ORITZ IS #%,%2).! 3CHLARIGNA IN 2OMANSH 4HIS PLEASANT SMALL TOWN ON THE BANKS OF THE )NN BASE STATION FOR A GONDOLA RISING TO THE SKI SLOPES OF #ORVIGLIA HAS AN ATMOSPHERIC OLD COBBLED QUARTER OF TRADITIONAL %NGADINE ARCHITECTURE )TS ALSO THE END POINT OF BOTH THE INFAMOUS #RESTA 2UN LUGE COURSE AND THE /LYMPIA "OB 2UN FOR BOTH SEE P /N A GRASSY KNOLL KM EAST OF THE CENTRE IS THE ISOLATED "ASELGIA 3AN 'IAN WITH A 2OMANESQUE CHOIR AND A PAINTED WOODEN CEILING DATING FROM MID *UNE TO MID /CT -ON nPM 7ED nPM &RI AMnNOON $ECn-ARCH 7ED nPM FREE "EWARE THAT THERE ARE TWO TRAIN STATIONS THE ONE ON THE 3T -ORITZn 3AMEDAN LINE IS ON THE NORTH SIDE OF THE CENTRE THE OTHER DUBBED h#ELERINA 3TAZv ON THE 3T -ORITZn0ONTRESINA LINE IS M SOUTH JUST OVER THE RIVER 4HE STRAIGHT 6IA DA LA 3TAZIUN LINKS THE TWO HALFWAY ALONG IT AT THE CENTRAL CROSS ROADS WITH 6IA -AISTRA IS THE TOURIST OFlCE -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnNOON nPM 3UN nPM -AY *UNE .OV -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM WWW CELERINACH )NEXPENSIVE ACCOM MODATION INCLUDES THE EXCELLENT )NN ,ODGE HOSTEL WWW INNLODGECH DORMS FROM &R 4HE MOST CHARACTERFUL UPMARKET HOTEL IS #HESA 2OSATSCH A YEAR OLD RIVERSIDE INN WWWROSATSCH CH n ©5 %NGADINE©ARCHITECTURE
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!CROSS FROM #ELERINA RISES THE RIDGE OF -5/44!3 -52!', M ACCESSED BY A STEEP FUNICULAR FROM 0UNT -URAGL WHICH IS ON THE #ELERINAn 0ONTRESINA ROAD SERVED BY BUSES AND TRAINS 4HE PANORAMIC VIEW FROM THE TOP SOME M ABOVE THE VALLEY IS UNMISSABLE SUMMER OR WINTER OFFERING AN UNINTERRUPTED GAZE SOUTHWEST UP THE LENGTH OF THE %NGADINE ITS STRING OF LAKES GLITTERING IN THE SUNLIGHT BETWEEN HIGH PEAKS 4HE SUMMIT "ERGHOTEL HAS REIN VENTED ITSELF AS A lNE RESTAURANT WWWMUOTTASMURAGL CH WITH AN EXCELLENT MENU OF REGIONAL AND INTERNATIONAL CUISINE COMPLE MENTED BY AN OUTSTANDING WINE LIST AND SPECTACULAR VIEWS BOOK IN ADVANCE FOR A WINDOW TABLE ,UNCH IS A REASONABLE &R OR SO RISING TO &R OR MORE PER HEAD IN THE EVENING 4HROUGHOUT THE SEASON THE FUNICULAR RUNS EVERY HALF HOUR UNTIL PM 4HE "ERGHOTELS SPOTLESSLY CLEAN FRESH BUT SIMPLE SHARED BATH ROOMS ARE A RARE BARGAIN n GUESTS BENElT FROM DISCOUNTS ON THE FUNICULAR 4HE MOUNTAIN ALSO OFFERS GREAT WALKS AND A WINTER TOBOGGAN RUN
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&ROM 0ONTRESINA THE HIGH "ERNINA 0ASS M IS ABOUT KM SOUTHEAST 4HIS ROUTE IS SERVED BY ORDINARY TRAINS AS WELL AS THE "ERNINA %XPRESS SEE P AN EXCURSION IN PANORAMIC CARRIAGES FROM #HUR $AVOS AND 3T -ORITZ INTO THE IDYLLIC 6AL 0OSCHIAVO 0USCHLAV IN 'ERMAN AND DOWN TO THE )TALIAN BORDER TOWN OF 4IRANO FROM WHERE YOU SWITCH ONTO A POSTBUS AROUND THE SHORES OF ,AKE #OMO ENDING UP BACK IN 3WITZERLAND AT ,UGANO (OWEVER YOU TRAVEL IN THE VALLEY ITS STILL GORGEOUS ! CLASSIC VANTAGE POINT IS !LP 'RàM ON THE TRAIN LINE BUT NOT THE ROAD REACHABLE AFTER A TWO HOUR WALK FROM THE CAR PARK AT THE /SPIZIO "ERNINA INN ON THE PASS WWWBERNINA HOSPIZCH FROM HERE AT M YOU CAN SEE CLEAR DOWN THE VALLEY TO THE ,AGO DI 0OSCHIAVO AND BEYOND 4HE "ELVEDERE HOTEL AND RESTAURANT WWWBELVEDERE
ENGADINCH n DORMS &R -AYn/CT TEN MINUTES WALK FROM !LP 'RàM STATION PROVIDES REFRESHMENT 4HE RAILWAY JOINS THE ROAD AGAIN AT THE VILLAGE OF 3AN #ARLO WATCHED OVER BY ITS ANCIENT CHURCH TOWER AND HEADS ON KM TO 0/3#()!6/ PRONOUNCED POSS +9! VO 4HE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THIS LAID BACK PHOTOGENIC )TALIANATE TOWN AND THE HUDDLED !LPINE RESORT OF 0ONTRESINA THE SAME DISTANCE NORTH OF THE PASS COULDNT BE MORE STRIKING 0OSCHIAVOS TRANQUIL OLD QUARTER ACROSS THE RIVER FROM THE TRAIN STATION IS lLLED WITH TALL FOURSQUARE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY SHUTTERED MANSIONS IN VARIOUS SHADES OF PASTEL OVERLOOKING STONE PAVED PLAZAS RINGED WITH TERRACE CAFÏS 4HE PLACE IS PERFECT FOR SOAKING UP SOME SUNSHINE n OF WHICH THERES PLENTY n lLLING UP ON RISOTTO INSTEAD OF FONDUE AND SAVOURING A CARAFE OF 6ALTELLINA WINE FROM THE )TALIAN REGIONS BORDERING /N THE NORTH SIDE OF THE CENTRAL 0IAZZA #OMUNALE IS THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY 0ROTESTANT CHURCH OF 3ANT)GNAZIO WHICH HOLDS AN INSCRIPTION STATING THAT THE TOWN WAS RIFORMATA DA GLI ERRORI E SUPERSTIZIONI IN $ESPITE THIS CLAIM THE #ATHOLIC 3AN 6ITTORE DATING FROM THE LATE lFTEENTH CENTURY REMAINS A POWERFUL PRESENCE M AWAY ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE SQUARE 4HE SAME SQUARE HOLDS THE TOURIST OFlCE -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM *ULY !UG ALSO 3AT AMnNOON nPM WWWVALPOSCHIAVOCH /F THE HOTELS #ROCE "IANCA A lVE MINUTE WALK SOUTH WWWCROCE BIANCACH n AND
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THE OTHER DIRECTION ON 6IA -AISTRA (ERE ARE THE 'RAND (OTEL +RONENHOF WWWKRONENHOFCOM n A VAST "AROQUE STYLE PALACE SET AROUND ITS OWN COURTYARD WITH LAWNS AND TASTEFULLY LUXURIOUS GUEST ROOMS AND THE DELIGHTFUL 3ARATZ WWWSARATZCH A SIMILARLY GRAND HOTEL THAT HAS BEEN SUPERBLY RENOVATED AND UPDATED ROOMS ARE STYLED IN TASTEFUL CONTEMPORARY DECOR THAT FEELS LIKE A BREATH OF FRESH AIR $OWN BY THE STATION IS THE RELIABLE NON ENSUITE "AHNHOF WWWHOTEL BAHNHOF CH ALONGSIDE THE () HOSTEL *UGENDHERBERGE 4OLAIS WWW YOUTHHOSTELCH DORMS &R INCLUDING HALF BOARD WHERE YOU CAN GET ADVICE ON HIKES AND ADVENTURE SPORTS 4HE CAMPSITE 0LAUNS-ORTERATSCH WWWCAMPINGPLAUNSCH CLOSED -AY .OV IS IN A LOVELY COUNTRYSIDE LOCATION 7ALKS AND SKIING ASIDE THE MOST ENJOYABLE EXCURSION FROM 0ONTRESINA *UNEn/CT ONLY IS BY HORSE DRAWN CARRIAGE FROM THE STATION FOR AN HOUR TO THE TASTEFULLY RENOVATED (OTEL 2OSEGGLETSCHER WWW ROSEGGLETSCHERCH DORMS &R KM UP THE CAR FREE 6AL 2OSEG AT THE FOOT OF THE GLACIER 4HERE IS A SCHEDULED TIMETABLE n UP TO lVE CARRIAGES A DAY &R RETURN n BUT BOOKING IS ESSENTIAL ,UIGI #OSTA #ARRIAGES /THERWISE ITS AN EASY SCENIC WALK HR 4HE VIEWS FROM THE HOTEL ARE STUNNING AND PLENTY OF HIGH LEVEL TRAILS LEAD ON DEEPER INTO THE MOUNTAINS
3UISSE ON 6IA DA -EZ WWWSUISSE POSCHIAVOCH n ARE BOTH LONG STANDING lXTURES IN THE TOWN WITH DECENT ROOMS "EYOND THE ,AGO DI 0OSCHIAVO AND THE VILLAGE OF "RUSIO n WITH ITS FAMOUS MUCH PHOTOGRAPHED CIRCULAR VIADUCT BRINGING TRAINS GENTLY DOWN TO THE VALLEY mOOR n IS THE )TALIAN BORDER AT #AMPOCOLOGNO KM SOUTH OF 0OSCHIAVO 3OME KM FURTHER IS 4)2!./ TERMINUS OF 3WISS TRAINS 4HE 3WISS STATION AND ITS )TALIAN COUNTERPART WITH TRAINS TO -ILAN ROUGHLY EVERY HR SIT BESIDE EACH OTHER SEPARATED BY PASSPORT CONTROL 3WISS POSTBUSES TO ,UGANO n THE SECOND LEG OF THE "ERNINA %XPRESS n DEPART FROM ROUND THE CORNER SIGNPOSTED 4IRANOS RESIDENTIAL /LD 4OWN DEAD AHEAD ON THE WEST BANK OF THE RIVER HAS COBBLED ARCADED COURTYARDS AND TINY SLOPING LANES LEADING UP TO THE MEDIEVAL 0ORTA "ORMINA 4HE PILGRIMAGE CHURCH OF -ADONNA DI 4IRANO COMMEMORAT ING AN APPEARANCE OF THE 6IRGIN IN LIES KM NORTHWEST OF THE CENTRE ITS SHRINE FOCUSED AROUND A STATUE OF -ARY DRESSED IN A SILK AND GOLD ROBE DONATED BY LOCAL PEOPLE IN
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4HE %NGADINE CONTINUES TO RISE GENTLY FOR KM BEYOND 3T -ORITZ PAST LITTLE #HAMPFÒR TO THE VILLAGE OF 3),6!0,!.! ON A BULGE OF LAND BETWEEN THE DIMINUTIVE ,EJ DA #HAMPFÒR AND THE GRAND ,EJ DA 3ILVAPLAUNA 3ILVAPLANERSEE IN 'ERMAN $UE TO A PARTICULAR FEATURE OF THE LOCAL SUMMER CLIMATE n IN WHICH MORNING THERMALS RISE MORE QUICKLY THAN IN NEIGHBOURING 3T -ORITZ OR 3ILS THUS CREATING THE CONSISTENTLY STRONG WARM h-ALOJAWINDv THAT SWEEPS ACROSS THE SURFACE OF THE LAKE DURING THE DAY n 3ILVAPLANA IS HOME TO SOME OUTSTANDING WATERSPORTS IT HAS HOSTED THE WINDSURlNG AND KITEBOARDING WORLD CHAMPION SHIPS /PPOSITE THE VILLAGE IS TINY 3URLEJ BASE STATION FOR THE CABLE CAR UP TO 0IZ #ORVATSCH )N THE CENTRE OF 3ILVAPLANA n ON THE MAIN ROAD UP TO THE *ULIER 0ASS SEE P n IS THE TOURIST OFlCE -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM 3AT AMnNOON nPM $ECn-ARCH ALSO 3UN nPM WWWSILVAPLANA CH /F THE HOTELS YOUTHFUL *ULIER 0ALACE WWWJULIERPALACE COM n HAS A LIVELY ATMOSPHERE GOOD PRICES AND AN EXCELLENT BAR #HAMP FÒRS FOUR STAR #HESA 'UARDALEJ WWWCHESA GUARDALEJ CH n HAS PERKS LIKE A FREE SKI BUS AND FREE PARKING BUT STANDS OUT FOR ITS SUPERB VALUE SUMMER RATES 4HE ACCLAIMED ,ANDGASTHOF "ELLAVISTA WWWBELLAVISTACH n IS IN A PEACEFUL LOCATION NEAR THE 3URLEJ CABLE CAR WITH A STUNNING VIEW AND A lNE RESTAURANT 4JMTBOE.BMPKB
"EYOND THE ,EJ DA 3ILVAPLAUNA LIES THE QUIET VILLAGE OF 3),3 3EGL IN 2OMANSH WITH AN ALLURING RURAL ATMOSPHERE LACKING IN EITHER 3ILVAPLANA OR 3T -ORITZ 3ILS "ASELGIA OFFERS ETHEREALLY BEAUTIFUL VIEWS OVER THE ,EJ DA 3EGL ACCLAIMED BY A CENTURY OF ARTISTIC AND LITERARY VISITORS n NOT LEAST (ERMANN (ESSE -ARC #HAGALL AND 2ICHARD 3TRAUSS n WHILE M SOUTH 3ILS -ARIA WAS THE SUMMER HOME OF THE PHILOSOPHER &RIEDRICH .IETZSCHE FOR EIGHT CREATIVE YEARS (IS MODEST HOUSE HAS BEEN TURNED INTO THE .IETZSCHE (AUS MUSEUM 4UESn3UN nPM CLOSED -AY .OV &R WWWNIETZSCHEHAUSCH WHERE YOU CAN SEE MANUSCRIPTS PHOTOS DEATH MASKS AND THE ROOM WHERE .IETZSCHE WROTE HIS MOST CELEBRATED WORK !LSO 3PRACH :ARATHUSTRA )N THE #HESA #UMàNELA ON THE NEARBY VILLAGE SQUARE IS THE WELL EQUIPPED TOURIST OFlCE -ONn&RI AMn PM 3AT AMnNOON nPM 3UN nPM SHORTER HOURS IN OFF SEASON WWWSILSCH 4RAFlC IS BARRED FROM CIRCULATING BETWEEN -ARIA
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&ROM THE -ALOJA 0ASS M THE ROAD SUDDENLY TUMBLES OFF THE CLIFF EDGE AND DOWN IN A SERIES OF CONCERTINA SWITCHBACKS INTO THE BEAUTIFUL 6AL "REGA GLIA "ERGELL IN 'ERMAN ONE OF 'RAUBàNDENS THREE )TALIAN SPEAKING VALLEYS ALONG WITH -ESOLCINA AND 0OSCHIAVO 3UDDENLY EVERYTHING IS DIFFERENT THE CRISP AIR OF THE !LPS IS REPLACED BY THE WARM BREEZES OF THE SOUTH PINE FORESTS AND ROCKY SNOWY CRAGS BY LUSH GREEN VEGETATION AND SGRAFlTIED BUNGALOWS BY mINTY COTTAGES 2OUGHLY KM FROM THE PASS IS THE MAIN VILLAGE 6ICOSOPRANO AN ATTRACTIVE QUIET PLACE BYPASSED BY THE MAIN ROAD WHICH HEADS ON SOUTH THROUGH TINY 34!-0! BIRTHPLACE OF THE PAINTER !UGUSTO 'IACOMETTI AND HIS BETTER KNOWN SON THE SCULPTOR !LBERTO AND HOME TO THE VALLEYS TOURIST OFlCE WWWBREGAGLIACH 4HE ROAD SHADOWS THE RIVER COILING ON DOWN THE VALLEY PAST RUINED HILLTOP CASTLES AND ISOLATED CRUMBLING ROADSIDE CHURCHES &ROM 0ROMONTOGNO KM WEST OF 3TAMPA AND ABOUT THE SAME DISTANCE EAST OF THE BORDER VILLAGE #ASTASEGNA POSTBUSES FOLLOW A NARROW BRANCH ROAD WHICH CLIMBS THE NORTH WALL OF THE VALLEY TO 3/',)/ 4HIS EYRIE OF A HAMLET ITS NARROW COBBLED ALLEYS LINED WITH CLOSE SET STONE BUILDINGS OFFERS TREMENDOUS PANORAMIC VIEWS ITS LOFTY TERRACE SITS OPPOSITE THE 0IZZO "ADILE M AND IS BACKED BY THE EQUALLY LOFTY 0IZ DAL -ËRC AND 0IZ $UAN 4HE VILLAGE IS THE FOCUS OF A WEALTH OF MOUNTAIN WALKS EASY ONES FOLLOWING A VALLEY SIDE ROUTE DOWN TO 3TAMPA HR AS WELL AS LONGER HIGH LEVEL HIKES BACK TO 6ICOSOPRANO OR UP THROUGH THE TREELINE BEHIND THE VILLAGE "UT THERE ARE LAZIER REASONS TO SPEND A DAY OR THREE IN 3OGLIO THE 0ALAZZO 3ALIS IN THE VILLAGE WWWPALAZZOSALISCH n -ARCHn.OV IS ONE OF 3WITZERLANDS MORE EXTRAORDINARY HOTELS 3OGLIO WAS THE SEAT OF THE 6ON 3ALIS FAMILY LONG BEFORE WHEN THE PALAZZO WAS CONSTRUCTED AND THE HOTEL IS STILL OWNED BY THE SAME FAMILY TODAY 4HE WHOLE PLACE IS AN EYE OPENING EXPERIENCE FROM THE ECHOING VAULTED HALL CRAMMED WITH ANTIQUE FURNITURE CHAISES LONGUES OPEN lREPLACES AND SUITS OF ARMOUR TO ITS GRAND GUEST ROOMS SOME ENSUITE STONE mOORED DOWN BELOW WOOD mOORED ABOVE COMPLETE WITH FOUR POSTER BEDS AND ANTIQUE STOVES
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!LTHOUGH LINGUISTICALLY CULTURALLY AND TEMPERAMENTALLY )TALIAN THE 4ICINO HAS BEEN CONTROLLED BY THE 3WISS SINCE THE EARLY S WHEN 5RI 3CHWYZ AND 5NTERWALDEN MOVED TO SECURE THE SOUTHERN APPROACHES OF THE 'OTTHARD 0ASS AGAINST THE DUKES OF -ILAN &OR THREE CENTURIES THE 4ICINESI REMAINED UNDER THE THUMB OF THE TYRANNICAL NORTHERNERS UNTIL .APOLEON ARRIVED IN TO REORGANIZE THE AREA UNDER HIS NEW #ISALPINE 2EPUBLIC "UT FACED WITH A MERE EXCHANGE OF OVERLORDS THE 4ICINESI HELD OUT FOR INDEPENDENCE AND UNDER THE BANNER ,IBERI E 3VIZZERI h&REE AND 3WISSv THE 2EPUBLIC OF 4ICINO JOINED THE #ONFEDERATION AS A NEW CANTON IN 3INCE THEN THE 4ICINESI n APPEARANCES NOTWITHSTANDING n REMAIN RESOLUTELY 3WISS AND HAVE LITTLE TRUCK WITH FOREIGNERS CALLING THEM )TALIAN ALTHOUGH ITS ALSO ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE FOR AN OUTSIDER TO TELL THE LOCALS APART FROM THE )TALIAN FRONTALIERI WHO CROSS INTO 4ICINO DAILY TO WORK FOR SALARIES WELL BELOW THE 3WISS AVERAGE ! CRUEL IRONY OF LIFE HERE IS THAT 4ICINO SUFFERS SOME OF 3WITZERLANDS HIGHEST UNEMPLOYMENT RATES EVEN WHILE ITS SERVICE INDUSTRIES THRIVE STAFFED BY )TALIANS AND PAID FOR BY THOUSANDS OF 3WISS 'ERMAN TOURISTS AND SECOND HOMEOWNERS 3IMILARLY YOUNG PEOPLE WHO WOULD NATURALLY GRAVITATE TOWARDS UNIVERSITIES OR JOBS IN NEARBY -ILAN HAVE BEEN FORCED BY THEIR LACK OF AN %5 PASSPORT TO GO NORTH INTO CULTURALLY AND LINGUISTICALLY hFOREIGNv 3WITZERLAND INSTEAD 4HE REALITY BEHIND 4ICINOS GLAMOROUS FRONT IS A TALE OF lFTY YEARS OR MORE OF SOCIAL DISLOCATION AND A DRAINING DEEP ROOTED FRUSTRATION WITH CHIEmY 3WISS 'ERMAN INSPIRED ISOLATIONISM
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AMnPM &R SEE BOX P FOR PASS DETAILS INCLUDES A GALLERY SHOWING CHANGING EXHIBITS BY CONTEMPORARY 4ICINESE ARTISTS 4O AVOID THE CLIMB CATCH BUS FROM THE CENTRE TO !RTORE NEAR #ASTELLO DI 3ASSO #ORBARO AND THEN WEND YOUR OWN PATH BACK DOWN THE HILLSIDE
"MUP5JDJOP 4HE MOST PRISTINE PART OF THIS SOMETIMES TIRESOMELY TOURISTIC CANTON IS !,4/ 4)#)./ 5PPER 4ICINO NORTH OF "ELLINZONA n A REGION OF WILD LONESOME VALLEYS CUTTING DEEP INTO THE LANDSCAPE ON THE APPROACH TO THE HIGH !LPS DOTTED WITH RUSTIC STONE BUILT HAMLETS TEETERING ON STEEP SLOPES !S THROUGHOUT THE REST OF THE CANTON n THOUGH LESS OBTRUSIVELY HERE n MANY OF THE ORIGINAL 4ICINESE COMMUNITIES WHICH LABOURED SO LONG TO SCRAPE A LIVING FROM THE LAND ARE NOW lNANCIALLY ENRICHED EVEN IF CULTURALLY CHALLENGED BY THE PRESENCE OF MANY 'ERMAN AND 3WISS 'ERMAN SECOND HOMEOWNERS SEEKING REFUGE FROM THE PRES SURES OF CITY LIFE 4HE VILLAGES AND THE SCENERY NONETHELESS SURVIVE UNSCATHED AND IF GETTING OFF THE BEATEN PATH IS YOUR AIM !LTO 4ICINO IS A PERFECT CHOICE "IASCA IS THE GATEWAY TO THE REGION A SMALL TOWN AT THE JUNCTION OF THE SCENIC 6AL "LENIO n WHICH HEADS NORTH FROM "IASCA UP TO /LIVONE THEN CUTS OVER TO THE ,UCOMAGNO 0ASS n AND THE MAIN 6ALLE ,EVENTINA WHICH BENDS NORTHWEST UP TO THE FOOT OF THE 'OTTARDO 0ASS AND THE QUIET TOWN OF !IROLO WHERE THE RURAL 6AL "EDRETTO SPLITS OFF WEST TO THE .OVENA 0ASS 9OUD DO WELL TO CHECK YOUR PLANNED ITINERARY WITH THE TOURIST OFlCE IN "ELLINZONA BEFORE YOU SET OFF ALTHOUGH INFORMATION AND MAPS ARE MUCH THE SAME WHEREVER YOU GO STAFF IN THE REGIONAL TOURIST OFlCES IN "IASCA /LIVONE AND !IROLO ARE LESS LIKELY TO BE mUENT IN %NGLISH 5* $ * /0
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4HE SMALL TOWN OF ")!3#! SITS IN A GRAND LOCATION AT THE JUNCTION OF THREE VALLEYS THE 6ALLE ,EVENTINA THE 6AL "LENIO AND TO THE SOUTH TOWARDS "ELLINZONA A PART OF THE 4ICINO VALLEY CALLED THE 2IVIERA WHICH CRAMS IN SIDE BY SIDE A MOTORWAY A MAIN ROAD A MINOR ROAD A TRAIN LINE AND SEVERAL FOOTPATHS ALL SNAK ING BETWEEN WOODED MOUNTAINSIDES RISING M ABOVE YOUR HEAD (IGH ABOVE THE TOWN TO THE SOUTHEAST COMMANDING AN EAGLES EYE VIEW OF ALL ROUTES IN AND OUT IS THE IMPOSING THIRTEENTH CENTURY CHURCH OF 3AN 0IETRO E 0AOLO WITH A SIXTEENTH CENTURY PORTICO TACKED ON TO ITS SIMPLE 2OMANESQUE FACADE #OLLECT THE KEY FROM THE NEWER PARISH CHURCH HALFWAY UP THE HILLSIDE )NSIDE THE IRREGU LAR 2OMANESQUE mOOR PLAN n ARCHITECTS SEEM TO HAVE STRUGGLED WITH THE SLOPING BEDROCK n IS UNCHANGED AND THE INTERIOR WALLS ARE COVERED IN MEDIEVAL FRESCOES "IASCAS TRAIN STATION IS M SOUTH OF THE CENTRE 4HE TOURIST OFlCE IS JUST OFF 0IAZZA #ENTRALE ON 0IAZZETTA #AVALIER 0ELLANDA -ONn&RI AMnNOON n PM -AYn/CT ALSO 3AT nAM WWWBIASCATURISMO CH 3TAIRS UP TO THE CHURCH RISE DIRECTLY BEHIND THE TOURIST OFlCE 4HE MODERN HOTEL !L 'IARDINETTO 6IA 0INI WWWALGIARDINETTOCH IS LOCATED IN THE CENTRE ,OOK OUT FOR THE REGULAR 3ATURDAY MARKET SHOWCASING FRESH PRODUCE FROM THE UPPER VALLEYS
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1UIET 6AL "LENIO HEADS NORTH FROM "IASCA AWAY FROM THE MAIN ,EVENTINA ROUTES A BROAD OPEN VALLEY THAT BASKS IN GENEROUS SUNSHINE 4HE VALLEY mOOR IS DOTTED WITH VILLAGES THEMSELVES MARKED BY RUSTICI STONE BUILT PEASANT DWELLINGS SOMETIMES LITTLE MORE THAN SHACKS THAT ARE TOPPED WITH ROUGH SLATE ROOFS ! LOT OF THESE ARE NOW HOLIDAY COTTAGES RENOVATED AND RENTED OUT FOR TIDY SUMS TO NATURE STARVED NORTH ERNERS BUT THE VALLEY HAS NONETHELESS MADE SURE TO PROTECT ITS MOST VALUABLE ASSETS n PEACE QUIET AND UNSPOILT NATURAL BEAUTY /DDLY ENOUGH THE "LENIESI HAVE BEEN KNOWN THROUGHOUT %UROPE FOR CENTURIES AS CULINARY ENTREPRENEURS A SKILL PROB ABLY PICKED UP IN -ILAN SOMETIME IN THE -IDDLE !GES AND PASSED ON THROUGH THE
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GENERATIONS )N ONE 3IGNOR "IANCHINI FROM THE VALLEY WAS NO LESS THAN HEAD CHEF TO THE +ING OF 3PAIN IN A 3IGNOR "AGGI WON AN AWARD FOR SELLING THE BEST ICE CREAM IN &RANCE WHILE THE 'ATTI FAMILY n ALSO FROM THE "LENIO n OWNED AND MANAGED RESTAURANTS AND CAFÏS THROUGHOUT LATE 6ICTORIAN %NGLAND 4HE 3ENTIERO "ASSO IS THE MAIN VALLEY mOOR PATH THE WALK FROM "IASCA TO !CQUAROSSA ON THE WEST BANK OF THE RIVER IS A GENTLY RISING KM TAKING A LITTLE
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UNDER FOUR HOURS /N THE EAST BANK JUST NORTH OF "IASCA IS -ALVAGLIA WHOSE VILLAGE CHURCH BOASTS A HUGE FRESCO OF 3T #HRISTOPHER FROM HERE A TORTUOUS BRANCH ROAD CLIMBS IN A SERIES OF HAIRPINS INTO THE LONESOME 6AL -ALVAGLIA AMIDST TREMENDOUS SCENERY OF STEEP WOODED SLOPES DROPPING AWAY INTO A SEEM INGLY BOTTOMLESS RAVINE &ROM A POINT ON THE ROAD ITS POSSIBLE TO PARK AND WALK ACROSS A BRIDGE SPANNING THE VALLEY ON THE OTHER SIDE OF WHICH A DRAMATIC MULE TRACK PENETRATES FOR A COUPLE OF HOURS WALK TO $AGRO A HAMLET ON THE NORTHERN SIDE OF THE VALLEY WITH BROAD VIEWS !S YOU RISE INTO THE "LENIO THE LUSH GREEN SLOPES BEGIN TO CLOSE IN 4HE MAIN TOWN AT THE HEAD OF THE VALLEY BELOW THE SHARP PEAKED 3OSTO ON ONE SIDE AND THE 4ÚIRA ON THE OTHER IS /,)6/.% A LITTLE PLACE KM NORTH OF "IASCA THAT REmECTS THE VALLEYS ONCE NOBLE PRETENSIONS IN ITS ARRAY OF GRANDIOSE IF WORN EIGHTEENTH AND NINETEENTH CENTURY MANSIONS n RATHER OUT OF PLACE AMIDST THE ORCHARDS AND INCREASINGLY WILD HIGH VALLEY SCENERY 4HE TOURIST OFlCE WWWBLENIOCOM HAS INFORMATION ON THE VALLEY 5P IN THE VILLAGE IS THE /STERIA #ENTRALE WHICH SERVES TASTY HOME COOKED FARE AND HAS A FEW SIMPLE ROOMS $OWN A SHORT HILL BESIDE THE MAIN ROAD IS THE POST OFlCE AND BUS STOP WITH ALONGSIDE THE !LBERGO 3AN -ARTINO ALSO WITH EXCELLENT TRADITIONAL FOOD AND PIZZAS PLUS A CHOICE OF ROOMS ! lVE HOUR WALK FROM /LIVONE CLIMBS TO THE ,UCOMAGNO 0ASS M 4HE ROAD OVER THE PASS FROM /LIVONE TO $ISENTIS-USTÏR IN 'RAUBàNDEN SEE P IS PERHAPS THE MOST SCENIC ROUTE IN AND OUT OF 4ICINO
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&ROM "IASCA THE MOTORWAY THE MAIN ROAD AND RAIL LINE ALL BLAZE A TRAIL NORTHWEST INTO THE 6ALLE ,EVENTINA HEADING FOR THE 0ASSO DEL 'OTTARDO 'OTTHARD 0ASS AND TUNNELS SEE P AT THE END 4HERES NO DOUBT THAT THIS IS A SPECTACULAR ROUTE WHETHER HEADING NORTH OR SOUTH BUT ITS HEAVY USAGE IS ITS DOWNFALL HEMMED IN BY THE HIGH VALLEY WALLS THE HISS AND RUMBLE OF TRAFlC NOISE FROM THE MOTORWAY CAN SEEM OBTRUSIVELY LOUD TO VALLEY mOOR WALKERS AND CYCLISTS 4HIS SITUATION WILL CHANGE IN WHEN THE 'OTTHARD "ASE 4UNNEL SEE P OPENS MOST OF THE ROAD AND RAIL TRAFlC WILL ENTER THE NEW TUNNEL AT "ODIO JUST NORTH OF "IASCA THEREBY RESTORING PEACE AND QUIET TO THE UPPER ,EVENTINA (JPSOJDP
-AKE TIME FOR ')/2.)#/ A SMALL TOWN KM NORTHWEST OF "IASCA )T WAS HERE IN THAT A 3WISS FORCE NUMBERING DEFEATED A STRONG -ILANESE ARMY THEREBY LINKING 4ICINOS SUBSEQUENT HISTORY TO 3WITZERLAND RATHER THAN )TALY 'IORNICO IS LOVELY A TYPICAL 4ICINESE VILLAGE BUILT ON THE GENTLE SLOPES EITHER SIDE OF THE TUMBLING 2IVER 4ICINO WITH COBBLED ALLEYS RUNNING PICTURESQUELY BETWEEN OLD STONE ROOFED HOUSES AND A PHOTOGENIC HUMP BACKED BRIDGE CROSS ING TO A WOODED ISLAND MID RIVER AND FROM THERE TO THE WEST BANK WHERE RISES THE CAMPANILE OF 3AN .ICOLAO ONE OF THE MOST IMPRESSIVE AND ATMOSPHERIC OF 4ICINOS MANY 2OMANESQUE CHURCHES )TS EXTERNAL WALLS ARE DECORATED WITH ,OMBARDIC DESIGNS WHILE INSIDE IS A FRESCO DECORATED CHOIR PLACED ABOVE A BEAUTIFUL TRIPLE APSED HALF SUNKEN CRYPT !FTER EXPLORING THE VILLAGE VISIT THE /STERIA 'IORNICO ON THE MAIN STREET CLOSED 7ED TO PICK UP THE KEYS FOR ,A #ONGIUNTA 4HIS BLANK STRUCTURE STUCK IN THE lELDS M NORTH OF 'IORNICOS LITTLE TRAIN STATION IS AN ART GALLERY DEDICATED TO THE SCULPTURE OF :àRICH ARTIST (ANS *OSEPHSOHN n THOUGH YOUD NEVER KNOW FROM THE OUTSIDE IT LOOKS LIKE A CONCRETE BUNKER 4HE RAW ODDLY TRANQUIL INTERIOR HOLDS THREE ROOMS OF LUMPY METAL RELIEFS AND A FEW SCULPTURES IN BRONZE DATING FROM TO
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4HE FOCUS OF TOWN IS 0IAZZA 'RANDE AN ATTRACTIVE ARCADED SQUARE JUST OFF THE LAKEFRONT THAT IS LINED WITH PAVEMENT CAFÏS AND SERVES AS THE TOWNS MEETING POINT SOCIAL CLUB AND PUBLIC CATWALK 7ARM SUMMER NIGHTS SERVE UP SOME GREAT PEOPLE WATCHING AS EXQUISITELY GROOMED LOCALS PARADE TO AND FRO ALL THE CAFÏS A BUZZ AND FRAGRANT BREEZES BRINGING IN THE SCENT OF mOWERS FROM THE LAKESIDE GARDENS &ROM THE WEST END OF 0IAZZA 'RANDE LANES RUN UP TO 6IA #ITTADELLA IN THE /LD 4OWN AND THE "AROQUE #HIESA .UOVA DECORATED WITH A HUGE STATUE OF 3T #HRISTOPHER OUTSIDE 4HE TINY ARCADED COURTYARD REACHED THROUGH A SIDE DOOR IS A CHARMING SPOT AWAY FROM THE BUSTLE OF THE ALLEYS &OLLOWING THE ATMOSPHERIC 6IA DI 3ANT!NTONIO BRINGS YOU TO THE RATHER SOMBRE CHURCH OF 3ANT!NTONIO DATING FROM THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY BUT REBUILT FOLLOWING A FATAL ROOF COLLAPSE IN "ESIDE THE CHURCH THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY #ASA 2USCA 4UESn3UN AMnPM &R HOUSES A WORTHWHILE ART MUSEUM FOCUSING ON THE PAINTINGS AND SCULPTURES OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY 3WISS ARTIST *EAN !RP !LLEYS LEAD SOUTH TO THE TALL 3AN &RANCESCO CONSECRATED AS PART OF A MONAS TERY IN THE FOURTEENTH CENTURY 3IXTEENTH CENTURY RENOVATION ADDED FRESCOES MOST OF WHICH ARE NOW FADING BADLY &URTHER DOWN SITS THE STOUT THIRTEENTH CENTURY #ASTELLO 6ISCONTEO NOW HOME TO THE -USEO !RCHEOLOGICO !PRILn/CT 4UESn3UN AMnNOON nPM &R WORTH VISITING IF ONLY FOR ITS COLLECTION OF BEAUTIFUL 2OMAN GLASSWARE AND CERAMICS /N THE OTHER SIDE OF TOWN IN -URALTO M EAST OF THE STATION IS THE AUSTERE TWELFTH CENTURY 2OMANESQUE BASILICA OF 3AN 6ITTORE BUILT OVER A CHURCH lRST MENTIONED IN THE TENTH CENTURY AND NOW SURROUNDED BY GENERIC SUBURBAN HOUSING REDEVELOPMENTS OF THE LATE TWENTIETH -EDIEVAL FRESCO FRAGMENTS INSIDE AND THE 2ENAISSANCE RELIEF OF 3T 6ICTOR ON THE BELL TOWER ARE A DIVERTING CONTRAST TO THE UNINSPIRING VIEWS OVER THE TRAIN STATION -OST STRIKING OF ALL ,OCARNOS SIGHTS IS THE &RANCISCAN 3ANTUARIO DELLA -ADONNA DEL 3ASSO CHURCH DAILY AMnPM AN IMPRESSIVE OCHRE VISION mOATING ABOVE THE TOWN ON A WOODED CRAG n SASSO MEANS ROCK n AND CONSE CRATED IN ON THE SPOT WHERE SEVEN YEARS EARLIER THE 6IRGIN HAD APPEARED TO "ROTHER "ARTHOLOMEO DA )VREA FROM THE 3AN &RANCESCO MONASTERY IN THE TOWN 4HE TWENTY MINUTE WALK UP THROUGH THE WOODED RAVINE OF THE 4ORRENTE 2AMOGNO AND PAST A HANDFUL OF DECAYING SHRINES IS ATMOSPHERIC ENOUGH IN ITSELF OR YOU COULD TAKE THE HALF HOURLY FUNICULAR FROM JUST WEST OF THE MAIN TRAIN STATION TO 4ICINOS GREATEST PHOTO OP LOOKING DOWN THROUGH THE PALMS TO THE SUNLIT ARCADED MAIN FRONT OF THE CHURCH AND GLITTERING BLUE LAKE BEHIND 7ITHIN THE COMPLEX IS A SMALL MUSEUM OF ICONS %ASTERn/CT 3UNn&RI nPM &R BUT THE CHURCH SANCTUARY IS THE FOCUS OF ALL THE PILGRIMS ATTENTION /N THE WAY THROUGH THE COMPLEX YOULL PASS SEVERAL STRIKING TERRACOTTA SCULPTURE GROUPS OF BIBLICAL SCENES 4HE LOW "AROQUE INTERIOR OF THE CHURCH FEATURES A NUMBER OF PAINTINGS TWO OF WHICH STAND OUT "RAMANTINOS EMOTIONALLY CHARGED &UGA IN %GITTO &LIGHT TO %GYPT AND LOCAL ARTIST !NTO NIO #ISERIS 4RASPORTO DI #RISTO AL 3EPOLCRO 4HE STATUE OF THE 6IRGIN ON THE HIGH ALTAR WAS SCULPTED FOR THE CHURCHS CONSECRATION BY AN UNKNOWN ARTIST $BSEBEBBOE$JNFUUB
7HEN SWELTERING OVERCROWDED ,OCARNO M GETS TOO MUCH ITS EASY TO MAKE AN ESCAPE INTO THE COOL WOODED HILLS ABOVE "Y THE TOP STATION OF THE -ADONNA DEL 3ASSO FUNICULAR IN /RSELINA M IS THE LANTERN LIKE BASE STATION
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4HE VALLEYS AROUND ,OCARNO ARE PACKED WITH HIKING POSSIBILITIES AND OFFER SOME OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SCENERY IN THE WHOLE CANTON n WHICH MEANS THAT TRAILS CAN GET A LITTLE OVERCROWDED IN THE SUMMER SEASON 6AL 6ERZASCA AND 6ALLE -AGGIA BOTH LEAD NORTH FROM ,OCARNO WHILE THE GORGEOUS #ENTOVALLI RUNS WEST ON ONE OF 3WITZERLANDS MOST SCENIC AND DRAMATIC TRAIN RIDES ,OCARNOS NEIGHBOUR !SCONA IS COVERED ON P
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4HE 6!,,% -!'')! COMPRISES A COMPLEX VALLEY SYSTEM STRETCHING NORTH OF ,OCARNO INTO THE HIGH !LPS 4HIS IS WILD COUNTRYSIDE NOT EASY TO EXPLORE ABOUT KM INTO THE MAIN VALLEY ROADS SPLIT TO FOLLOW THREE SEPARATE UPPER VALLEYS THE 6AL 2OVANA 6AL "AVONA AND 6AL ,AVIZZARA WHICH ARE CUT OFF FROM EACH OTHER AND WHICH ALL EVENTUALLY COME TO A STOP AGAINST IMPASSABLE ROCK )T IS HOWEVER SUPERB TERRITORY FOR WALKING THE LONG DISTANCE ROUTE OUTLINED IN THE BOX ON P PASSES THROUGH AND THERE ARE SOME lNE SHORT WALKS IN REMOTE CORNERS .ORTH FROM 0ONTEBROLLA A VILLAGE ABOVE ,OCARNO AT THE JUNCTION OF THE #ENTOVALLI THE VALLEY IS DEEP RUGGED AND VERY NARROW )T OPENS OUT FURTHER ALONG AROUND 'ORDEVIO AND THE VILLAGE OF -AGGIA HOME OF THE LOCAL TOURIST OFlCE WWWVALLEMAGGIACH ACROSS THE RIVER FROM -AGGIA AT !URIGENO IS THE 3" HOSTEL "ARACCA WWWBACKPACKERCH !T #EVIO M THE LARGEST TOWN IN THE VALLEY A ROAD BRANCHES WEST INTO THE 6AL 2OVANA CLIMBING TO THE VILLAGE OF "/3#/'52). M 4HIS IS THE HIGHEST SETTLEMENT IN 4ICINO AND ALSO ITS ONLY 'ERMAN SPEAKING COMMUNITY FOUNDED IN THE -IDDLE !GES BY EX MERCENARIES FROM THE UPPER 6ALAIS THE LOCALS STILL SPEAK AN ODD COMBINATION OF /BERWALLISER AND ,OCARNESE DIALECTS 7ITH LIFT ACCESS UP TO M THE REMOTE VILLAGE HAS BECOME A CENTRE FOR WINTER SPORTS AND THERE ARE SOME GOOD WALKS IN SUMMER IN AND AROUND 'ROSSALP WWW GROSSALPCH
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*UST KM NORTH OF #EVIO KM NORTH OF ,OCARNO IS THE IDYLLIC VILLAGE OF ")'.!3#/ M WHERE THE VALLEY DIVIDES /F A HANDFUL OF LOVELY RESTAU RANTS HERE THE 4URISTI HAS EXCELLENT FOOD AND A SHADED TERRACE AS WELL AS SOME ROOMS .ORTHWEST FROM "IGNASCO A ROAD CLIMBS INTO THE WILD 6AL "AVONA A STRIP OF VALLEY mOOR KM LONG THAT IS HEMMED IN BY SHEER SCARPS ON BOTH SIDES 4HERE ARE TWELVE RUSTIC HAMLETS IN THE VALLEY INCLUD ING &OROGLIO WITH A RESTAURANT HUDDLED NEXT TO A SPLENDID WATERFALL ! SHORT CLIMB ABOVE 3AN #ARLO M THE lNAL HAMLET CHARACTERIZED BY TALL NARROW SIXTEENTH CENTURY STONE HOUSES IS A CABLE CAR UP TO THE EYRIE OF 2/")%) M OVERLOOKED BY THE "ASODINO GLACIER 4HE TOP STATION HAS A TERRACE RESTAURANT AND ACCOMMODATION WWWROBIEICH DORMS &R ONE OF THE MOST SCENIC WALKS HEADS WEST INTO THE 6AL &IORINA MIN &ROM "IGNASCO ANOTHER ROAD CLIMBS NORTHEAST INTO THE 6AL ,AVIZZARA !FTER 0ECCIA M n RENOWNED FOR ITS MARBLE QUARRIES AND SCULPTURE SCHOOL n THE SWITCHBACKS GET TIGHTER UP TO THE HAMLET OF -/'./ M WHERE ACROSS THE WAY ON YOUR RIGHT YOULL SPOT THE TILTED CIRCULAR ROOF OF THE CHURCH OF 3AN 'IOVANNI "ATTISTA THROUGH THE TREES 4HE CHURCH REACHED BY A SHORT PATH CLIMBING FROM A PARKING AREA WAS DESIGNED BY -ARIO "OTTA AFTER AN AVALANCHE DESTROYED A PRE EXISTING CHAPEL ON THE SAME SPOT IN "OTTA HAS SAID THAT WHEN THE LOCALS CAME TO HIM SAYING THEY DIDNT WANT TO GIVE THE FUTURE GENERA TION A PLACE POORER THAN THE ONE THEY KNEW HE RESPONDED BY OFFERING TO BUILD A CHURCH THAT WOULD LAST A THOUSAND YEARS (IS ACHIEVEMENT IN THIS REMOTEST OF PLACES IS DAZZLING )T IS A SMALL BUILDING SET ON A MARBLE PLAZA 4HE INTERIOR IS SUPREMELY ELEGANT BARE AND SILENT ENCIRCLED IN STRIPED MARBLE THE TRANSPARENT ROOF BATHING THE ALTAR IN SUNLIGHT ,INGERING HERE IS MESMERIC WALKING BACK OUT INTO THE PINE FOREST AMIDST CHIRPING BIRDS AND LOG CABINS IS A REVELATION
7BM7FS[BTDB !BOUT KM EAST OF ,OCARNO ON ,AGO -AGGIORE IS THE SUBURB OF 4ENERO STANDING AT THE HEAD OF THE 6!, 6%2:!3#! THE SHORTEST OF THE MAJOR VALLEYS AROUND ,OCARNO 4HE SOUTHERN END OF THE VALLEY HIGH ABOVE 4ENERO IS BLOCKED BY THE GIGANTIC 6ERZASCA $AM SCENE OF THE WORLDS HIGHEST BUNGEE JUMP SEE BOX P %VEN IF YOURE NOT JUMPING ITS WORTH STOPPING HERE TO WANDER OUT INTO THE MIDDLE OF THE DAM ON ONE SIDE IS A DIZZYING M DROP DOWN TO BARE ROCK ON THE OTHER A TRANQUIL BLUE LAKE IS FRAMED BY CLASSIC !LPINE SCENERY 4HE ROAD CONTINUES BEYOND THE DAM PASSING BELOW #ORIPPO M AT THE END OF THE LAKE A BEAUTIFUL CLUSTER OF OLD STONE COTTAGES CROWNED BY A TALL CAMPANILE KM NORTH IS ,AVERTEZZO SITE OF PERHAPS THE MOST PHOTOGRAPHED BRIDGE IN 3WITZERLAND A GRACEFUL SEVENTEENTH CENTURY DOUBLE ARCH THAT LEAPS FROM BANK TO ISLAND TO BANK -ANY QUIETER TRAILS HEAD OFF INTO SIDE VALLEYS FROM ,AVERTEZZO WHILE THE VALLEY CUTS DEEPER FOR ANOTHER KM UP TO 3ONOGNO M PASSING ON THE WAY THROUGH "RIONE LOCATED ON A PLATEAU AT A JUNC TION OF VALLEYS THE VIEWS ARE PRETTY AND THE CHURCH BOASTS FOURTEENTH CENTURY 'IOTTO STYLE FRESCOES
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,OCARNO IS THE EASTERN TERMINUS OF THE WONDERFUL #ENTOVALLI RAILWAY WWW CENTOVALLICH ONE OF 3WITZERLANDS MOST SCENIC RIDES SEE P ,ITTLE TRAINS RUN BY ,OCARNOS &!24 COMPANY DEPART FROM BENEATH ,OCARNO STATION INTO THE SPECTACULAR VALLEY n SO NAMED FOR ITS hHUNDREDv SIDE VALLEYS n MOST OF THE TIME WINDING SLOWLY ON PRECARIOUS BRIDGES AND VIADUCTS ABOVE RAVINE LIKE DEPTHS SIT ON THE LEFT FOR THE BEST VIEWS 4HE AREA IS RENOWNED FOR ITS NATURAL BEAUTY
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AND WITH WALKING MAPS FROM ,OCARNO TOURIST OFlCE ALSO AVAILABLE AT WWW PROCENTOVALLICH YOU COULD GET OUT AT ANY OF THE VILLAGES EN ROUTE PICK UP A TRAIL AND HEAD OFF INTO THE HILLS 4HERES NO LACK OF GROTTI CAFÏS AND SIMPLE BUDGET ACCOMMODATION /NE NEAT WAY TO SEE THE ROUTE IS WITH THE ,AGO -AGGIORE %XPRESS PASS SEE P 0AST 0ONTEBROLLA TINY 6ERSCIO KM NORTHWEST OF ,OCARNO IS A LOVELY STONE BUILT VILLAGE WHICH ALSO HOUSES THE 4EATRO $IMITRI WWWTEATRODIMITRICH A HIGHLY ACCLAIMED INTERNATIONAL MIME SCHOOL FOUNDED BY !SCONA BORN CLOWN h$IMITRIv A PROTÏGÏ OF -ARCEL -ARCEAU 4HE SMALL THEATRE IN A COBBLED LANE OFF THE VILLAGE SQUARE STAGES PERFORMANCES BY STUDENTS AND PROFESSIONALS ALMOST NIGHTLY -ARCHn$EC AND IS ALSO THE TRAINING GROUND FOR THE EXCELLENT #IRCUS -ONTI WHICH TOURS 3WISS TOWNS AND CITIES EVERY YEAR !LSO ON SITE IS THE SMALL -USEO #OMICO OPEN ON PERFORMANCE DAYS PMnMIDNIGHT &R FREE WITH THEATRE TICKET WITH COSTUMES AND MEMORABILIA 3OME KM DOWN THE LINE THE TRAIN CLANKS OVER A GRACEFUL IRON VIADUCT SPAN NING THE M GORGE OF THE )SORNO TORRENT 4HIS WAS THE SCENE OF 3WITZERLANDS lRST EVER BUNGEE JUMP IN AND REMAINS A CHOICE SPOT FOR LEAPING SEE BOX P ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF ).42!'.! ITS CHURCH MARKED BY THE HIGHEST STEEPLE IN 4ICINO M BUILT IN !N EXCELLENT WALK STARTS FROM )NTRAGNA STATION CROSSING A MEDIEVAL BRIDGE AND JOINING A MULE TRACK WHICH CLIMBS GENTLY ACROSS THE MEADOWS TO 2ASA AN ISOLATED STONE BUILT HAMLET WITH NO ROAD ACCESS FROM WHERE A TINY CABLE CAR SWOOPS BACK OVER THE VALLEY DOWN TO 6%2$!3)/ STATION &ROM 6ERDASIO ANOTHER CABLE CAR SCALES THE OPPOSITE NORTHERN VALLEY WALL TO -ONTE #OMINO M ABOVE WWWCOMINOCH FROM HERE YOU COULD FOLLOW A TWO HOUR CIRCUIT OF THE SUMMIT OR A MORE TAXING KM PATH BACK TO )NTRAGNA !FTER 6ERDASIO THE TRAIN ROLLS ON THROUGH DENSE CHESTNUT FORESTS TO THE QUIET BORDER VILLAGE OF #ÉMEDO PASSPORT NEEDED AND ON THROUGH THE RUSTIC VILLAGES OF THE )TALIAN 6ALLE 6IGEZZO FOR THE CLIMB TO 3ANTA -ARIA -AGGIORE THE HIGHEST POINT OF THE LINE M 4HE TERMINUS LIES KM ON AT THE BUSTLING VALLEY mOOR )TALIAN TOWN OF $/-/$/33/,! &AST 3WISS TRAINS FROM HERE RUN WEST THROUGH THE 3IMPLON3EMPIONE 4UNNEL TO "RIG AND ON TO "ERN "ASEL AND 'ENEVA WHILE )TALIAN TRAINS HEAD SOUTH TO -ILAN )F YOU HAVE TIME TO KILL BETWEEN TRAINS HEAD M WEST FROM THE STATION INTO THE OLD PART OF TOWN SET AROUND A SERIES OF ATTRACTIVELY CRUMBLING ARCADED PIAZZAS
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DOMINANCE OF 3WISS AFFAIRS !SCONESI ARE BECOMING UNEASY VOICES ARE BEING RAISED FOR THE CANTONAL GOVERNMENT TO STEP IN AND FORCE !SCONAS BUSINESSES TO PRIORITIZE )TALIAN
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5IFUPXO !SCONAS TOUR DE FORCE IS 0IAZZA -OTTA THE COBBLED LAKEFRONT PROMENADE SOUTH FACING AND FULLY M LONG THE AIRY VIEWS DOWN THE LAKE mANKED BY WOODED PEAKS TO THE "RISSAGO ISLANDS ARE SENSATIONAL 4HERE ARE FEW BETTER PLACES TO WATCH THE DAY DRIFT BY THE MORNING MISTS ON THE WATER THE CLARITY OF LIGHT AT MIDDAY THE SUNSETS AND PEACEFUL TWILIGHT ARE SIMPLY MESMERIZING 7ORD OF !SCONA BEGAN TO SPREAD A CENTURY OR MORE AGO WHEN A SLOW BUT STEADY INmUX BEGAN OF PHILOSOPHERS THEOSOPHISTS AND SPIRITUALISTS MOST OF WHOM BELIEVED THAT A RETURN TO NATURE WAS THE BEST REMEDY FOR THE MORAL DISINTEGRATION OF 7ESTERN SOCIETY !T THE TURN OF THE CENTURY THE ARTISTS (ENRI /EDENKOVEN AND )DA (OFMANN ESTABLISHED AN ESOTERIC VEGETARIAN ARTISTS COLONY
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ON THE HILL OF -ONTE 6ERITÌ BESIDE !SCONA !N ARRAY OF %UROPEAN FRINGE INTEL LECTUALS FOLLOWED INCLUDING PRACTITIONERS OF THE NEW ARTS OF PSYCHOLOGY AND PSYCHOANALYSIS )N 2UDOLF VON ,ABAN SET UP HIS NUDIST 3CHOOL OF .ATURAL AND %XPRESSIVE $ANCE WITHIN THE -ONTE 6ERITÌ COMMUNITY ATTRACTING )SADORA $UNCAN AMONG OTHERS AND DURING AND AFTER 7ORLD 7AR ) ARTISTS AND PACIlSTS mOCKED TO !SCONA 4HE BUILDINGS ATOP THE PEACEFUL WOODED HILL ARE NOW USED MOSTLY FOR CONFERENCES BUT A FEW HAVE BEEN PRESERVED AS A MUSEUM OF THE MOVEMENT 4UESn3UN *ULY !UG nPM !PRILn*UNE 3EPT /CT nPM &R WWWMONTEVERITAORG )TS A SHORT WALK UP THE HILL FROM THE BUS STOP BUS TO THE #ASA !NATTA WITH TWO mOORS OF THE ORIGINAL WOODEN HOUSE GIVEN OVER TO PAPERS AND PHOTOS COMMEMORATING THE ARTISTS EXPLOITS ! WALK PAST THE MAIN "AUHAUS CONFERENCE CENTRE AND INTO THE WOODS BRINGS YOU TO THE TINY #ASA 3ELMA USED AS THE COMMUNITYS RETREAT AND ON FURTHER TO THE %LISA RION HOUSING A CIRCULAR PAINTING BY %LISAR VON +UPFFER DEPICTING THE SPIRITUAL LIBERATIONS OF COMMUNAL LIFE #ENTRAL !SCONAS ATTRACTIVE COBBLED LANES LEADING BACK FROM THE LAKEFRONT ARE FULL OF ARTISANS GALLERIES JEWELLERS AND CRAFT SHOPS 4HE -USEO #OMUNALE D!RTE -ODERNA IN A SIXTEENTH CENTURY PALAZZO AT 6IA "ORGO -ARCHn$EC 4UESn3AT AMnNOON nPM 3UN nPM &R WWWMUSEOASCONACH HAS A HIGH QUALITY COLLECTION FOCUSED ON -ARIANNE VON 7EREFKIN ONE OF THE MANY ARTISTS ATTRACTED TO !SCONA IN ITS HEYDAY AND JOINT FOUNDER OF -UNICHS EXPRESSIONIST "LAUE 2EITER MOVEMENT LOOK OUT FOR HER TERRIFYING -UNCH LIKE )L #ENCIAIOLO 4HE 2AG -AN 4HE )TALIAN BORDER LIES KM SOUTH OF !SCONA PAST THE RATHER SOULLESS LITTLE RESORT OF "RISSAGO !BOUT KM FURTHER IS THE CHARACTERFUL AND ATTRACTIVE OLD TOWN OF #ANNØBIO n WELL WORTH A VISIT
4WIN ISLANDS KM SOUTH OF !SCONA THE )3/,% $) "2)33!'/ !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM &R IN ADDITION TO BOAT TICKET WWWISOLEBRISSAGOCH ARE ACCESSIBLE BY HOURLY BOATS FROM ,OCARNO AND !SCONA AND BY MORE REGULAR SHUTTLES FROM 0ORTO 2ONCO THE NEAREST POINT ON THE MAINLAND 4HESE TINY DOTS OF GREEN IN THE SHIMMERING LAKE OVERmOW WITH LUXURIANT SUBTROPICAL mORA BASKING IN THE HOT SUN THIS IS ALSO THE LOWEST POINT IN 3WITZERLAND M ABOVE SEA LEVEL 4HE MAIN ISLAND 3T 0ANCRAS n ABOUT TEN MINUTES STROLL END TO END n IS GIVEN OVER TO A lNE BOTANICAL GARDEN !T ONE END IS AN ATTRACTIVE VILLA NOW A CONFERENCE CENTRE AND QUALITY RESTAURANT A LONG LUNCH HERE FOLLOWED BY A SIESTA UNDER THE PALMS MAKES FOR A MOST UN 3WISS LIKE AFTER NOON .OTE THAT THE SIGNS IDENTIFYING EACH PLANT SPECIES ARE IN )TALIAN &RENCH AND 'ERMAN n BUT NOT %NGLISH /NLY GROUPS CAN STAY OVERNIGHT EVERYONE ELSE MUST LEAVE ON THE LAST BOAT AROUND PM 4HE SMALL ISLAND 3T !POLLINARIS HAS NO PUBLIC ACCESS
1SBDUJDBMJUJFT !SCONAS TOURIST OFlCE IS AT THE TOP OF THE OLD QUARTER ON 6IA 0APIO !PRILn /CT -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM .OVn-ARCH -ONn&RI AMnNOON nPM WWWASCONACH 4HERE ARE LITERALLY DOZENS OF HOTELS WITH EIGHT ON THE WATERFRONT 0IAZZA -OTTA ALONE RANGING FROM TWO TO FOUR STARS A GOOD CHOICE HERE IS THE CHARACTERFUL FAMILY RUN 4AMARO WWWHOTEL TAMAROCH o )F MONEYS NO OBJECT AIM FOR THE %DEN 2OC 6IA !LBARELLE WWWEDENROC CH ONE OF 3WITZERLANDS TOP LUXURY HOTELS WHERE A SOUTH FACING ROOM IS
A COOL &R A NIGHT OR THE SENSUOUSLY OPULENT lVE STAR SPA RETREAT !LBERGO 'IARDINO 6IA 3EGNALE WWWGIARDINOCH SET IN LAVISH GARDENS %ATING TOO IS A CASE OF FOLLOWING YOUR NOSE ALONG THE WATERFRONT EVERY CAFÏ AND RESTAURANT LAYS TABLES OUTSIDE 4HE 4AMARO OFFERS DINING IN THE PLEAS ANT INTERNAL ATRIUM THE %LVEZIA IS A GOOD SPOT FOR INEXPENSIVE PIZZA AND lSH DISHES OR YOU COULD lLL A GAP WITH THE EXCELLENT ICE CREAM AT THE -ÚVENPICK !T ALL OF THESE &Rn WILL COVER A MEAL "ACK IN THE OLD TOWN THE $ELLA #ARRÌ HAS AN ATMOSPHERIC COURTYARD OFF THE COBBLED 6IA #ARRÌ DEI .ASI SERVING EXCELLENT lSH DISHES AND NOVELTIES SUCH AS CHICKEN IN WHISKY SAUCE RECKON ON &R OR MORE !L 4ORCHIO ON #ONTRADA -AGGIORE CLOSED .OV HAS GOOD LOCAL SPECIALITIES SIMILARLY PRICED AND THE ALLURE OF LIVE JAZZ NIGHTLY
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4HE 3/44/#%.%2) REGION SOUTH OF "ELLINZONA AND ,OCARNO IS MUCH MORE DEVELOPED THAN THE 3OPRACENERI WITH DOZENS OF NEAT PROSPEROUS TOWNS CRAMMED IN BETWEEN THE NARROWING INTERNATIONAL BORDERS TO EAST AND WEST 4HE PRINCIPAL DRAW IS THE SOPHISTICATED AND STYLISH CITY OF ,UGANO SITED ON A BAY OF THE GLORIOUS ,AGO DI ,UGANO WHICH TWISTS OUT INTO )TALY ON BOTH SIDES *UTTING OUT INTO THE LAKE JUST A STONES THROW FROM THE CITY IS THE SUN DRENCHED #ERESIO PENINSULA DOTTED WITH IDYLLIC )TALIANATE COUNTRY VILLAGES AND CRISSCROSSED BY SOME OF THE LOVELIEST EASY WALKS IN THE CANTON
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,UGANO IS BLESSED WITH PLENTY OF PLEASANT ATMOSPHERIC PLACES TO EAT AND YOULL HAVE NO DIFlCULTY lNDING SOMEWHERE TO SUIT 4HE MANY BARS AND CAFÏS AROUND 2IFORMA ALL OFFER GOOD INEXPENSIVE FOOD AT LUNCH AND DINNER n YET ALTHOUGH THEY GET PACKED WITH EVENING DRINKERS HIP BAR HOPPING ,UGANESI PREFER TO TUCK THEMSELVES AWAY ELSEWHERE lLLING OUT A HANDFUL OF VIBRANT BARS OFF THE MAIN STREETS OF THE CENTRE
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"SPVOE-VHBOP 4HE POSSIBILITIES FOR GETTING OUT INTO THE COUNTRYSIDE AROUND ,UGANO AND THE LAKE ARE PLENTIFUL THE TOURIST OFlCE HAS SHEETS ON CYCLING ROUTES AND WALK ING TRAILS OUT OF THE CITY BOTH LONG AND SHORT TAXING AND EASY 4HE BEST AREA TO HEAD FOR IS THE HILLY COUNTRYSIDE OF THE #ERESIO PENINSULA EXTENDING DIRECTLY BEHIND THE 3AN 3ALVATORE MOUNTAIN OPPOSITE ,UGANO WITH LAKE VIEWS TO EAST SOUTH AND WEST THAT ARE CONTINUALLY CAPTIVATING 0OSTBUSES ANDOR BOATS FROM ,UGANO SERVE ALL VILLAGES ON THE PENINSULA %AST OF ,UGANO ACROSS THE )TALIAN BORDER IS THE LITTLE LAKESIDE STRETCH OF THE 6ALSOLDA n A CLUSTER OF ATTRACTIVE VILLAGES ON THE WAY TO 0ORLEZZA AND ON TO -ENAGGIO ON ,AKE #OMO 4HE -ALCANTONE WEST OF ,UGANO IS FOR THE MOST PART RESIDENTIAL AND LIGHT INDUSTRIAL BEFORE THE BORDER AT 0ONTE 4RESA AND ANOTHER STRETCH OF LAKESIDE VILLAGES IN )TALIAN TERRITORY THERES THE MEMORABLE ATTRACTION OF A VISITABLE 3WISS CHOCOLATE FACTORY AT LITTLE #ASLANO
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&ROM 'ANDRIA THE MAIN ROAD HEADS EAST FOR KM TO THE INTERNATIONAL BORDER AFTER M OF NO MANS LAND BETWEEN 3WISS AND )TALIAN CUSTOMS YOU EMERGE INTO THE 6ALSOLDA A STRETCH OF LAKESIDE VILLAGES HEADED BY /RIA AND ALMOST IMMEDIATELY EAST !LBOGASIO BOTH OF THEM CHEERFUL LITTLE PLACES n THOROUGHLY )TALIAN AND QUITE UNLIKE 'ANDRIA JUST THE OTHER SIDE OF THE FRONTIER 3AN -AMETE IS ESPECIALLY PICTURESQUE WITH ITS TWELFTH CENTURY BELL TOWER ! QUARTER HOUR EAST OF 'ANDRIA AND KM FROM THE BORDER IS 0/2,%::! THE MAIN TOWN ON THIS )TALIAN BRANCH OF ,AGO DI ,UGANO n BUT IN TRUTH ITS NOT MUCH OF A PLACE 4HE VIEWS FACING DIRECTLY WEST OVER THE WATER ARE SENSATIONAL BUT 0ORLEZZAS LAKEFRONT IS RAMSHACKLE AND DISORGANIZED AND THE TOWN ITSELF IS UNREMARKABLE -ENAGGIO ON THE SHORES OF ,AKE #OMO LIES JUST KM EAST
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THROUGH THE 0ARCO DEGLI 5LIVI A -EDITERRANEAN STYLE LAKEFRONT PARK SHADED BY OLIVE TREES CYPRESS LAURELS OLEANDER AND DELICIOUSLY FRAGRANT ROSEMARY 4HIS WHOLE SOUTH FACING HORN OF -ONTE "RÒ IS PROTECTED AS AN AREA OF SPECIAL SCIENTIlC INTEREST REVELLING IN A SEMI TROPICAL MICROCLIMATE OF NEAR CONTINUOUS SUNSHINE AND JUST A HANDFUL OF RAINY DAYS A YEAR !FTER LESS THAN AN HOURS WALK FROM ,UGANO OR lVE MINUTES IN THE CAR YOU COME TO THE PICTURESQUE VILLAGE OF '!.$2)! RISING STRAIGHT FROM THE WATER KM EAST OF THE CITY !T THE TOP OF THE VILLAGE OFF THE MAIN ROAD ARE PARKING AREAS THERE IS NO ACCESS TO THE VILLAGE BY CAR n THE SLOPES ARE FAR TOO STEEP 7ANDERING DOWN THROUGH THE QUIET NARROW ALLEYS PAST PALM TREES GROWING OUT OF THE ROCKY WALLS YOU COME TO THE LANDING STAGE SERVED BY REGULAR BOATS FROM ,UGANO AROUND WHICH IS CROWDED A HANDFUL OF TERRACE RESTAURANTS THERE ARE FEW QUIETER MORE ALLURING CORNERS AT WHICH TO HOLE UP 6IEWS DOWN THIS LITTLE EXPLORED EASTERN ARM OF THE LAKE FRAME THE PINNACLE OF -ONTE DEI 0IZZONI n AND BESIDE IT -ONTE "RONZONE n SWEEPING DOWN INTO THE WATER WITH PRECIPITOUS WOODED SLOPES OPPOSITE THAT ARE ALMOST COMPLETELY DEVOID OF HABITATION 4HE SILENCE IS WONDERFUL 3HOULD YOU DECIDE TO STAY (OTEL -OOSMANN CAN OBLIGE WITH A LAKE VIEW ROOM WWWHOTEL MOOSMANN GANDRIA CH n !PRILn/CT /PPOSITE 'ANDRIA WITH ITS OWN LANDING STAGE SERVED BY BOATS FROM 'ANDRIA ITSELF AS WELL AS ,UGANO CENTRE THERE ARE NO ROADS HERE IS THE -USEO DELLE $OGANE 3VIZZERE #USTOMS -USEUM !PRILn/CT DAILY nPM FREE WITH AN INTERESTING COLLECTION OF CUSTOMS RELATED BITS AND BOBS THAT LACK DECENT %NGLISH NOTES ALTHOUGH THE DISPLAYS RELATING TO SMUGGLING METHODS SPEAK FOR THEMSELVES
$BNQJPOFE*UBMJB *UST ACROSS THE LAKE FROM ,UGANO IS THE ENCLAVE OF #!-0)/.% $)4!,)! WHICH OPTED OUT OF THE CAMPAIGN FOR INDEPENDENCE IN AND SO FORMED A PART OF )TALY WHEN ALL AROUND IT BECAME 3WISS 4HE VILLAGE n FOR THATS ALL IT IS EVEN THOUGH ITS VERY SWISH n IS PART OF THE 0ROVINCIA DI #OMO IT HAS )TALIAN POLICE DRIVING AROUND IN 3WISS REGISTERED CARS AND USES 3WISS FRANCS RATHER THAN EUROS 4HERE IS NO PASSPORT CONTROL !MBITIOUS PLANS TO BUILD A CABLE CAR TO THE MOUNTAIN TOP ABOVE THE TOWN n AND THEREBY MAKE IT POSSIBLE FOR THE lRST TIME IN CENTURIES TO REACH #AMPIONE DIRECTLY FROM )TALIAN TERRITORY n WERE RECENTLY SHELVED ON GROUNDS OF COST "Y ROAD YOU ENTER AT A MODERN ARCH THERE IS A STRICT ONE WAY SYSTEM SO YOU MUST GO RIGHT ROUND THE TOWN CENTRE BEFORE TURNING BACK ALONG THE LAKESHORE
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#AMPIONES LANDMARK BUILDING IS ITS GIANT CASINO DAILY PMnAM OR LATER WWWCASINOCAMPIONEIT WITH A HUGE ALMOST WINDOWLESS EXTENSION BY 3WISS ARCHITECT -ARIO "OTTA 5NLIMITED STAKES APPLY HERE AND n DESPITE RECENT LIBERALIZATION OF 3WISS GAMING LAW n THIS IS STILL WHERE ,UGANOS MANY HIGH ROLLERS COME TO DALLY AFTER DARK 0REVIOUSLY THE TOWN WAS FAMOUS FOR ITS STONEMASONS THE -AESTRI #AMPIONESI WHOSE SKILLS WERE SOUGHT FOR BUILDINGS ALL OVER NORTHERN )TALY THE ONLY EXAMPLE THAT HAS SURVIVED UNSCATHED IN #AMPIONE IS THE LITTLE GLASSED IN CHURCH OF 3AN 0IETRO JUST OFF THE CENTRAL 0IAZZA 2OMA &ROM HERE 6IA -ARCO DA #AMPIONE RUNS SOUTH ALONG THE LAKE BACK TO THE ARCH !BOUT M ALONG AND M BEFORE THE ARCH IS THE CHURCH OF 3ANTA -ARIA DEI 'HIRLI !PRILn/CT DAILY AMnPM .OVn-ARCH 3AT 3UN AMnPM 'HIRLI MEANS hSWALLOWSv AND REFERS TO #AMPIONES WELL TRAVELLED MASONS WHO RETURNED HOME ONLY RARELY 4HE CHURCH n WHICH SHOWS ITS BEST SIDE TO THE LAKE n IS lLLED WITH THIRTEENTH CENTURY FRES COES ESPECIALLY STRIKING ARE THE SCENES ON THE SOUTH WALL SHOWING 3ALOME AND (ERODIAS IN COURTLY MEDIEVAL DRESS "OATS DOCK AT 0IAZZA 2OMA JUST NEAR THE CASINO AND OPPOSITE A ROW OF BUSY CHEERFUL AND UNMISTAKABLY )TALIAN AS OPPOSED TO 3WISS CAFÏS CHURNING OUT COFFEES AND FULL MEALS ,A 4AVERNA IS A GOOD CHOICE CLOSED 7ED #AMPIONES POSHEST RESTAURANT IS $A #ANDIDA 6IA -ARCO DA #AMPIONE WWWDACANDIDACOM CLOSED -ON LUNCH ON 4UES CLOSED *ULY THE CHEF PREPARES HIS OWN FOIE GRAS AND IMPORTS HIS OWN OYSTERS AND OTHER SEAFOOD FROM "RITTANY %XPECT A BILL WELL INTO THREE lGURES
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5IF$FSFTJPQFOJOTVMB &ROM 0ARADISO TEN MINUTES SOUTH OF ,UGANO CITY CENTRE A FUNICULAR RUN BY &-3 RISES TO 3AN 3ALVATORE WWWMONTESANSALVATORECH A RUGGED ROCK PINNACLE OFFERING ESPECIALLY GOOD DEGREE PANORAMAS FROM THE ROOF OF THE LITTLE CHURCH ON THE SUMMIT A SHORT CLIMB FROM THE FUNICULAR STATION ! TERRACE CAFÏ BY THE TOP STATION ATTENDS TO REFRESHMENT NEEDS 4HIS IS ALSO THE STARTING POINT FOR A NUMBER OF WALKS SOUTH INTO THE #ERESIO PENINSULA ITS ABOUT AN HOUR AND TWENTY MINUTES THROUGH #ARONA VILLAGE TO -ORCOTE SEE OPPOSITE ON THE TIP OF THE PENINSULA !LTHOUGH 3AN 3ALVATORE IS THE MOST OBVIOUS LANDMARK HEREABOUTS IT SHARES THE PENINSULA WITH THE LOWER #OLLINA D/RO OR (ILL OF 'OLD n ABOUT KM SOUTHWEST OF CENTRAL ,UGANO n NAMED AS SUCH NOT FOR ITS MINERALS BUT FOR ITS SUN DRENCHED TRANQUILLITY .POUBHOPMB
/N THE TOP OF THE #OLLINA D/RO SITS THE VILLAGE OF -/.4!'./,! HOME FOR YEARS TO THE WRITER (ERMANN (ESSE (ESSE WAS BORN IN 'ERMANY IN AND CAME TO -ONTAGNOLA IN FOLLOWING TRAUMATIC SEPARATION FROM HIS FAMILY AFTER 7ORLD 7AR ) (E RENTED THE #ASA #AMUZZI AN ORNATE VILLA WHERE HE LIVED FOR TWELVE YEARS AND WHERE IN AN EXTRAORDINARY OUTPOURING OF CREATIVITY HE WROTE HIS CLASSIC WORKS +LINGSORS ,AST 3UMMER 3IDDHARTHA AND 3TEPPENWOLF AMONG MANY OTHERS )N HE WAS GRANTED 3WISS CITIZENSHIP AND THEN IN HE MOVED ACROSS THE VILLAGE TO THE #ASA "ODMER WHERE HE WROTE 4HE 'LASS "EAD 'AME WHICH WON HIM THE .OBEL 0RIZE FOR ,ITERATURE IN (ESSE DIED IN -ONTAGNOLA IN 4HE #ASA #AMUZZI NOW HOUSES THE -USEO (ERMANN (ESSE -ARCHn/CT 4UESn3UN AMnPM nPM .OVn&EB 3AT 3UN SAME HOURS &R WWWHESSEMONTAGNOLACH 4HERE ARE NO SIGNS TO THE MUSEUM FROM THE
-ONTAGNOLA BUS STOP WITH THE VILLAGE POST OFlCE BEHIND YOU WALK DOWN THE SLOPE AND AIM THROUGH A NARROW PASSAGE LEADING AHEAD OFF THE SQUARE 4HE HOUSE IS lVE MINUTES FURTHER ON THE RIGHT 7ALKING AROUND THE OLD VILLA IS INTERESTING ALTHOUGH THE MODEST DISPLAYS n (ESSES UMBRELLA (ESSES TABLE n ARE LABELLED IN )TALIAN AND 'ERMAN ONLY 7HAT MAKES THE ENTRY FEE WORTHWHILE IS AN EXCELLENT MINUTE VIDEO IN %NGLISH ON THE WRITERS LIFE IN -ONTAGNOLA THAT THE STAFF CAN SET UP FOR YOU .FMJEF4XJTTNJOJBUVS
/N THE EASTERN SIDE OF THE PENINSULA AT THE POINT WHERE THE TRAIN TRACKS MAIN ROAD AND AUTOSTRADA ALL CROSS THE LAKE ON A LOW BRIDGE SITS THE VILLAGE OF -%,)$% HOME TO THE KITSCHY BUT RATHER FUN 3WISSMINIATUR MID -ARCH TO /CT DAILY AMnPM &R WWWSWISSMINIATURCH 4HIS SMALL PARK FEATURES SCALE MODELS OF JUST ABOUT EVERY ATTRACTION IN 3WITZERLAND FROM 'ENEVAS CATHEDRAL TO :àRICH AIRPORT CIRCA 4HE REPRODUCTIONS ARE EXCELLENT AND MOVING MODEL BOATS TRAINS AND CABLE CARS LIVEN THE STATIC MODELS UP NO END ! WANDER PAST ALL EXHIBITS MIGHT TAKE AN HOUR OR TWO n BUY THE %NGLISH LEAmET &R FOR A BRIEF RUNDOWN .PSDPUFBOE7JDP.PSDPUF 5* $ * /0
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!T THE PENINSULAS SOUTHERN TIP KM SOUTH OF -ELIDE LIES THE CAPTIVATING VILLAGE OF -/2#/4% ONCE A lSHING COMMUNITY AND NOW EKING OUT A LIVING AS A LAKESIDE ATTRACTION )TS PHOTOGENIC ARCADED HOUSES n AND SLIGHTLY TACKY ANTIQUES SHOPS n ARE STRUNG ALONG THE SHORELINE ROAD WITH A WEB OF TRANQUIL STEPPED LANES LEADING UP THE HILL BEHIND TO 3ANTA -ARIA DEL 3ASSO A lFTEEN MINUTE CLIMB !PRILn/CT -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM .OVn-ARCH -ONn&RI nPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM 4HE ATMOSPHERIC HILLSIDE CHURCH HAS WELL PRESERVED SIXTEENTH CENTURY FRESCOES AND BOASTS GREAT VIEWS 3EVERAL WALKS EXPLORE THE LUSH WOODLANDS NEARBY INCLUDING A LONG TRAIL BACK UP TO 3AN 3ALVATORE HR MIN -ORCOTE HAS A HANDFUL OF HOTELS BUT ALSO SUFFERS FROM A GREAT DEAL OF TOUR IST ATTENTION /NE WAY TO ESCAPE IS TO AIM FOR THE TINIER VILLAGE OF 6)#/ -/2#/4% ON THE HARD TO REACH HILLSIDE ABOVE AND KM NORTH OF -ORCOTE (ERE ALTHOUGH THE CHURCH IS JUST AS PICTURESQUE AND THE TINY VILLAGE PIAZZAS ARE LINED WITH OLD STONE BUILT HOUSES THAT ARE JUST AS BEAUTIFUL UNLIKE IN -ORCOTE YOU CAN ACTUALLY HEAR THE FOUNTAINS TINKLE SMELL THE CAMELLIAS AND STAND ALONE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE STREET TO ABSORB THE ATMOSPHERE /N A JUNCTION WITHIN THE VILLAGE BESIDE THE RUSTIC /STERIA AL "ÚCC GNOCCHI OR SPAGHETTI &R YOULL lND THE TRANQUIL "ELLAVISTA n )TS IMPRESSIVE RESTAURANT IS RUN BY A HIGHLY ACCOMPLISHED TEAM WHO SERVE EXQUISITE LIGHTLY PREPARED LOCAL CUISINE ON A BEAUTIFUL TERRACE HIGH ABOVE THE LAKE MENUS ARE AROUND &R 4HE HOTEL ROOMS TO ONE SIDE ARE OUTSTANDING THE BARGAIN OF THE REGION n FRESH MODERN WITH CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS AND mOODED WITH SUNLIGHT 4HEIR TOP mOOR LUXURY SUITE HUGE AND SPOTLESS WITH WHITE TILED mOOR BILLOWING CURTAINS AND A PRIVATE TERRACE IS UTTERLY ROMANTIC !NOTHER SPLIT LEVEL SUITE IS IN THE ADJA CENT BUILDING WITH SIMILARLY IMPRESSIVE DECOR AND VIEWS
1PSUP$FSFTJPBOEBSPVOE &ROM #APOLAGO ON THE EAST SHORE OF THE LAKE A MINOR ROAD CUTS WEST THROUGH THE MEDIEVAL VILLAGE OF 2)6! 3!. 6)4!,% AND AROUND THE PERIMETER OF -ONTE 3AN 'IORGIO A WOODED MOUNTAIN THAT HAS BEEN MADE A 5.%3#/ 7ORLD .ATURAL (ERITAGE 3ITE FOR ITS UNSPOILT ENVIRONMENT AND ITS FOSSILS &ROM
"253)./ !23):)/ AN ATTRACTIVE VILLAGE KM FROM 2IVA WITH A HANDFUL OF LAZY TERRACE CAFÏS THAT SOAK UP THE AFTERNOON SUN A CABLE CAR RISES TO 3ERPIANO ON A SHOULDER OF THE MOUNTAIN FOR LONESOME FOREST RAMBLING "EFORE YOU REACH "RUSINO THE ROAD ROUNDS THE HEADLAND OF 0/*!.! OCCUPIED BY THE BROAD SHADY TERRACE OF THE RESTAURANT 4ERMINUS )TS AN UNROMANTIC ESTABLISHMENT THAT CAN ONLY STRETCH TO PLASTIC GARDEN CHAIRS UNDER THE TREES BUT THE LOCATION IS MARVELLOUS LOOKING BEYOND ,UGANO TO THE HIGH PEAKS BEHIND 4HE )TALIAN BORDER LIES KM BEYOND "RUSINO M FURTHER BRINGS YOU TO THE GENIAL LAKEFRONT TOWN OF 0/24/ #%2%3)/ GAZING BACK AT -ORCOTE JUST A SHORT HOP ACROSS THE WATER 4HE TOWN HAS BUILT A BOARDWALK ON STILTS OVER THE WATER TO FACILITATE THE LOVELY LATE AFTERNOON PASSEGGIATA WHICH EXTENDS EITHER SIDE OF THE MAIN LAKEFRONT 0IAZZA "OSSI AND TAKES IN SEVERAL ENTICING LITTLE POCKETS OF WEST FACING SANDY BEACH 4HERES NOT MUCH ELSE TO DO BOATS STOP IN HERE TWO OR THREE TIMES A DAY FROM ,UGANO
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,ITTLE RED TRAINS RUN BY &,0 START FROM OPEN PLATFORMS OPPOSITE ,UGANOS MAIN RAIL STATION ON A SCENIC BUT CIRCUITOUS ROUTE WEST THROUGH THE -ALCANTONE DISTRICT !FTER CIRCLING THE AIRPORT AT !'./ THEY HUG AN ARM OF THE LAKE BOUND FOR 0ONTE 4RESA !BOVE !GNO ARE A SUCCESSION OF HILL VILLAGES AND SOME lNE LONELY WALKS ! TRAIL FROM -ONTE 4AMARO SEE P ENDS UP HERE AT -ONTE ,EMA CONNECTED BY CABLE CAR WITH THE VILLAGE OF -IGLIEGLIA 4RAINS HEAD ON TO THE UNDISTINGUISHED TOWN OF #!3,!./ UNLIKELY HOME OF THE !LPROSE CHOCOLATE FACTORY -ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT 3UN AMnPM &R WWWALPROSECH ON AN INDUSTRIAL ESTATE AT 6IA 2OMPADA TO lND IT FROM #ASLANO STATION FOLLOW THE TRACKS IN THE DIRECTION OF 0ONTE 4RESA FOR ABOUT M AND CUT LEFT !S YOU ENTER YOURE GREETED 7ILLY 7ONKA LIKE BY A FOUN TAIN BUBBLING WITH FRAGRANT MOLTEN CHOCOLATE A GUIDE WILL SWOOP A BREADSTICK THROUGH AND HAND IT TO YOU 4HE MUSEUM IS REFRESHINGLY FREE OF CORPORATE HARD SELL YOULL WANDER PAST SOME OLD COIN OP MACHINES AND KNICK KNACKS INCLUD ING A -EISSEN PORCELAIN CHOCOLATIER PLUS THERES A SHORT VIDEO 4HE BEST BIT IS THAT YOURE ALLOWED ONTO A CATWALK ABOVE THE PRODUCTION LINE TO WATCH THE MIXING MACHINES AND CONVEYOR BELTS SHUTTLING BARS AND INGREDIENTS AROUND THE FACTORY mOOR 9OU CAN BUY THE FULL !LPROSE RANGE AT DISCOUNTED PRICES IN THE ONSITE SHOP #ASLANO IS LOOMED OVER BY THE BULBOUS -ONTE #ASLANO WHICH ALMOST CHOKES THIS CORNER OF THE LAKE THERE IS JUST A NARROW REEDY STRAIT BETWEEN THE MOUNTAIN AND THE OPPOSITE )TALIAN SHORE WHICH ALLOWS BOATS TO ACCESS 0/.4% 42%3! THE RAIL TERMINUS KM SOUTH OF #ASLANO 4HIS IS A SCHIZOPHRENIC LITTLE PLACE DIVIDED BY THE 2IVER 4RESA ALONG WHICH RUNS THE INTERNATIONAL BORDER 4HE 3WISS HALF OF TOWN IS PLACID AND NEAT WITH AN AIR OF REPOSE BUT CROSSING THE BRIDGE FOR WHICH THE TOWN WAS NAMED THROWS YOU INTO ITS )TALIAN TWIN n A MINI MAELSTROM OF CARS NEGOTIATING A COMPLEX ONE WAY SYSTEM AROUND A SHOP lLLED TOWN CENTRE 3OUTH AROUND THE LAKE SHORE LIES 0ORTO #ERESIO
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*UST NORTH OF -ENDRISIO FROM ALONGSIDE #APOLAGO TRAIN STATION M AT THE HEAD OF THE LAKE ALSO ACCESSIBLE BY BOAT FROM ,UGANO 4ICINOS ONLY RACK RAILWAY CLIMBS ON A SLOW SCENIC ROUTE UP TO THE SUMMIT OF -/.4% '%.%2/3/ M WWWMONTEGENEROSOCH &OR THE VIEWS ALONE THIS TRIP IS WORTH TAKING FROM THE STEEP SUMMIT n A SHORT CLIMB ABOVE THE 6ETTA TOP STATION n YOU CAN SEE OUT ACROSS VIRTUALLY THE WHOLE OF NORTHERN )TALY IN AN AMAZING PANORAMA -ILAN AND 4URIN ARE BOTH VISIBLE ,AKE #OMO AND ,AKE -AGGIORE ARE BOTH IN PLAIN SIGHT AS IS THE DISTINCTIVE PYRAMIDAL -ATTERHORN AND YOU CAN EVEN SEE AS FAR AS THE MOUNTAIN PASS IN THE !PENNINES ABOVE 'ENOA 4HE RESTAURANT BY THE TOP STATION IS THE STARTING POINT FOR AN ARRAY OF WALKS INCLUDING DOWN TO -ENDRISIO ONE WAY HR MIN OR -UGGIO ANOTHER HR MIN YOU CAN PICK UP MAPS AND INFORMATION AT THE TICKET OFlCE IN #APOLAGO .EAR -ENDRISIO THE VILLAGE OF -ORBIO )NFERIORE MARKS A BRANCH ROAD THAT CLIMBS INTO THE LAST VALLEY IN 3WITZERLAND THE TRANQUIL 6ALLE DI -UGGIO WWWVALLEDIMUGGIOCH 4HICKLY WOODED WITH SEEMINGLY INACCESSIBLE HAMLETS CLINGING TO THE STEEP SIDE OPPOSITE THE ROAD THIS IS A LOVELY RARELY VISITED BACKWATER -5'')/ M KM IN HAS A FEW TAVERNS WHERE YOU CAN GRAB A BITE AND A STEEP TRAIL LEADING UP TO THE 'ENEROSO SUMMIT 4HE BEST ACCOM MODATION OPTION IS /STERIA ,A -ONTANARA A WELCOMING LITTLE INN IN -/.4% ACROSS THE VALLEY FROM -UGGIO
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WITZERLAND IS OFTEN DISMISSED AS AN IRRELEVANCE IN THE BROADER PICTURE OF %UROPEAN HISTORY BECAUSE THE COUNTRY IS PEACEFUL TODAY THE UNDERLYING SUSPICION IS THAT IT EITHER WASNT SUBJECT TO THE SAME TIDE OF EVENTS AS ELSEWHERE OR THAT THE PLACE IS JUST SOMEHOW INHERENTLY TRANQUIL "OTH IDEAS ARE FALSE 4HE 3WISS DIFFERENCE CAME IN SOLVING THE SAME PROBLEMS THAT EVERYONE ELSE HAD IN ENTIRELY DIFFERENT CO OPERATIVE WAYS $ECENTRALIZATION CONSULTATION AND COOPERATION ARE STILL KEY 3WISS ATTRIBUTES AS THEY WERE IN AT THE START OF THE COUNTRYS HISTORY 5NTIL YEARS AGO 3WITZERLAND WAS THE MOST UNSTABLE COUNTRY IN %UROPE WITH A HISTORY SPANNING CENTURIES OF INTERNECINE CONmICT 4HE !LPINE CALM OF TODAY CAME AT THE PRICE OF ALMOST A MILLENNIUM OF WAR
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)N "# AT "IBRACTE IN MODERN &RANCE A 2OMAN ARMY UNDER *ULIUS #AESAR DEFEATED THE (ELVETII n A GROUP OF #ELTIC TRIBES RESIDENT IN THE FERTILE AREA BETWEEN THE !LPS AND THE *URA n AND FORCED THEM TO MOVE EN MASSE TO WESTERN 3WITZERLAND !FTER ALSO CONQUERING 2HAETIA MODERN 'RAUBàNDEN THE 2OMANS GRADUALLY OPENED UP THE COUNTRY BUILDING THE lRST ROADS OVER THE MAJOR !LPINE PASSES n MOST SIGNIlCANTLY THE 'RAND 3T "ERNARD AS WELL AS THE *ULIER AND 3PLàGEN FURTHER EAST n AND FOUNDING PROVINCIAL TOWNS AT .YON !UGST NEAR "ASEL AND !VENCHES THE LAST OF WHICH BECAME THE 2OMAN CAPITAL WITH OVER lFTY THOUSAND INHABITANTS IN ITS HEYDAY &OR TWO CENTURIES OR MORE 3WITZERLAND ENJOYED PEACE AND PROSPERITY AGRICULTURE mOURISHED AND THE POPU LATION WAS A COSMOPOLITAN MIX OF NATIVE #ELTS AND SETTLED 2OMAN OFlCIALS 4HE PEACE WAS SHATTERED IN WHEN THE !LEMANII n A GROUP OF #ELTIC TRIBES FROM THE AREA OF MODERN 'ERMANY n BROKE THROUGH THE 2OMANS FORTIlED NORTHERN BORDER !MIDST INCREASING TURMOIL (ELVETIA AND 2HAETIA WERE REDUCED TO IMPOVERISHED FRONTIER REGIONS
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)N !PPENZELL AND NEAR THE 2HINE IN 3CHAFFHAUSEN ARE SCATTERED REMAINS OF THE 0ALEOLITHIC CIVILIZATIONS THAT OCCUPIED THE AREA OF 3WITZERLAND BETWEEN THE LONG PERIODS OF PREHISTORIC GLACIATION !ROUND YEARS AGO AT THE END OF THE LAST MAJOR )CE !GE HUNTER lSHERFOLK MOVED IN TO OCCUPY THE -ITTELLAND SOON AFTERWARDS BUILDING VILLAGES ON THE SHORES OF THE LAKES OF :àRICH .EUCHÊ TEL 'ENEVA AND OTHERS $URING THE "RONZE !GE AND EARLY )RON !GE THE SETTLED VILLAGERS BEGAN TO MAKE CONTACT WITH NEIGHBOURING POPULATED REGIONS )N THE lRST MILLENNIUM "# THE #ELTS ADVANCED INTO 3WITZERLAND FROM THE WEST BRINGING WITH THEM A NEW CULTURE AND NEW SOPHISTICATION AS EXEMPLIlED IN THE FORTIlED #ELTIC TOWNSHIP DISCOVERED AT ,A 4ÒNE NEAR .EUCHÊTEL
5IFSPPUTPGGSFFEPNo !ROUND 2OME WITHDREW ITS LEGIONS FROM THE AREA OF 3WITZERLAND AND 'ERMANIC TRIBES MOVED IN TO TAKE CONTROL )N THE WESTERN REGIONS THE ORIGI NALLY 'ERMANIC "URGUNDIANS SETTLED AND ADOPTED BOTH THE #HRISTIANITY AND THE ,ATIN LANGUAGE OF THE LOCAL 'ALLO 2OMAN TRIBES /N THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE MOUNTAINS AND IN THE CLOSED !LPINE VALLEYS OF 2HAETIA ,OMBARDIC AND
2OMANSH PEOPLES RETAINED CLOSE CULTURAL AND LINGUISTIC LINKS WITH THEIR FORMER 2OMAN OVERLORDS %LSEWHERE !LEMAN TRIBES FROM THE NORTH SETTLED THE FORESTS OF CENTRAL AND NORTHEASTERN (ELVETIA HALTING THEIR ADVANCES AT POINTS WHERE THE LAND WAS ALREADY POPULATED BY ,ATIN SPEAKING "URGUNDIANS 4HE 'ERMANIC !LEMANS HAD HAD LITTLE CONTACT WITH 2OME AND #HRISTIANITY AND SO CONTINUED TO USE THEIR OWN NATIVE LANGUAGE AND FOLLOW THEIR OWN CUSTOMS )N THIS WAY A BORDER OF LANGUAGE AND CULTURE SLOWLY DEVELOPED ALONG A LINE RUNNING ROUGHLY NORTHnSOUTH MARKING THE EASTERNMOST LIMIT OF ,ATINATE "URGUNDIAN TERRITORY AND THE WESTERNMOST LIMIT OF !LEMANIC TERRITORY 4HIS LANGUAGE BORDER SURVIVES TODAY AS THE FRONTIER BETWEEN &RENCH AND 'ERMAN SPEAKING 3WITZERLAND !ROUND BOTH THE !LEMANS AND THE "URGUNDIANS WERE CONQUERED BY THE &RANKS WHO ABSORBED THEM INTO THEIR EMPIRE UNDER lRST -EROVINGIAN AND THEN #AROLINGIAN KINGS 4HE &RANKISH %MPIRE GREATLY EXPANDED ,ATIN #HRISTIANITY THROUGHOUT 3WITZERLAND n AND ESPECIALLY INTO THE PAGAN !LEMANIC AREAS n WITH A NETWORK OF MONASTERIES INCLUDING THOSE WHICH STILL mOURISH AT 2OMAINMÙTIER %INSIEDELN %NGELBERG AND 3T 'ALLEN &EUDALISM ALSO SPREAD LOCAL WARRIOR NOBLES TOOK CONTROL OVER AN AGRARIAN SOCIETY OF LORDS VASSALS AND A VAST IMPOVERISHED PEASANTRY )N #HARLEMAGNES EMPIRE WAS SPLIT WITH THE DIVIDING LINE RUNNING RIGHT THROUGH THE MIDDLE OF MODERN 3WITZERLAND #ONmICT ERUPTED AND IT WASNT UNTIL AROUND THAT PEACE AND ORDER RETURNED NOMINALLY UNDER THE (OLY 2OMAN %MPEROR $0/5&954
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4HEªBIRTHªOFªTHEª#ONFEDERATION $URING THE TWELFTH CENTURY ABOUT A THIRD OF THE CENTRAL 3WISS FORESTS WERE CLEARED NOBLE DYNASTIES n AMONG THEM THE HOUSES OF (ABSBURG :ËHRINGEN 3AVOY AND +YBURG n ESTABLISHED TOWNS SUCH AS "ERN &RIBOURG -URTEN AND 7INTERTHUR FROM WHICH TO ASSERT THEIR CONTROL OVER THE INCREASINGLY PROSPEROUS COUNTRYSIDE !ROUND THE ROAD OVER THE 3T 'OTTHARD 0ASS WAS OPENED FOR TRAFlC AND THOSE COMMUNITIES LYING ON THE NORTHERN APPROACHES TO THE PASS n SPECIlCALLY 5RI AND 3CHWYZ n SUDDENLY TOOK ON MASSIVE IMPORTANCE TO THE IMPERIAL RULERS ! RESURGENCE IN TRADE WITH THE -EDITERRANEAN WORLD AFTER ALMOST A MILLENNIUM OF ISOLATION LED TO LUXURY GOODS MAKING THEIR WAY ACROSS THE !LPINE PASSES INTO NORTHERN %UROPE ,OCAL LORDS MERCHANTS PRINCES AND THE VALLEY COMMUNES SQUABBLED WITH EACH OTHER FOR CONTROL OF THE LUCRATIVE PASS ROUTES 4HE SITUATION NEEDED RESOLUTION AND THE (OLY 2OMAN %MPEROR HIMSELF STEPPED IN GRANTING TO 5RI IN AND TO 3CHWYZ IN THE PRIVILEGE OF FREEDOM FROM FEUDAL OVERLORDSHIP 4HE !USTRIAN HOUSE OF (ABSBURG HAD EXTENDED ITS INmUENCE OVER MUCH OF 3WITZERLAND BUT THE PROUD INDEPENDENT PEOPLE FARMING THE REMOTE VALLEYS OF 5RI AND 3CHWYZ AND THEIR NEIGHBOURS IN FORESTED 5NTERWALDEN REMAINED SELF RELIANT 4HE DEATH IN OF THE RULER 2UDOLF OF (ABSBURG SPARKED POPULAR REVOLTS DIRECTED AGAINST ENTRENCHED POWER BASES SUCH AS THE MONASTERIES )N RESPONSE A NUMBER OF 3WISS COMMUNITIES FORGED NEW PARTNERSHIPS OR RENEWED OLD ONES TO GIVE THEMSELVES A DEGREE OF PROTECTION AGAINST AN UNCERTAIN FUTURE 4HE LEGENDARY FOUNDING OF THE 3WISS #ONFEDERATION ON THE 2àTLI MEADOW ON !UGUST BY REPRESENTATIVES OF 5RI 3CHWYZ AND 5NTERWALDEN WAS JUST ONE OF THESE ALLIANCES AND IS THOUGHT TO HAVE BEEN A RENEWAL OF AN EARLIER AGREEMENT OF UNKNOWN DATE DECLARING THAT AN ATTACK ON ANY ONE OF THE PARTNERS WAS AN ATTACK ON THEM ALL 4HE LEGEND OF 7ILLIAM 4ELL PROBABLY AROSE BOTH AS A JUSTIlCATION OF THE SPORADIC REBELLIONS THAT FOLLOWED THE DEATH OF 2UDOLF AND AS A WAY TO EMBODY THE CONCEPT OF 3WISS LIBERTY IN A SINGLE HEROIC lGURE THERE IS NO MENTION EITHER OF 4ELL OR OF ANY ORGANIZED RESISTANCE TO THE (ABSBURGS IN
CONTEMPORARY THIRTEENTH CENTURY CHRONICLES 4HE NAME THE 3WISS GAVE THEM SELVES AFTER n %IDGENOSSEN n IS UNTRANSLATABLE IN %NGLISH APPROXIMATING TO hCOMRADES BOUND BY OATH INTO A COOPERATIVEv BUT RETAINS A SPECIAL SIGNIl CANCE 3WITZERLAND STILL CALLS ITSELF THE %IDGENOSSENSCHAFT AND THE WORD %IDGENOSSE IS LISTED IN DICTIONARIES AS A SYNONYM FOR h3WISSv
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2EVOLTS CONTINUED AGAINST SYMBOLS OF (ABSBURG POWER )N AT -ORGARTEN NEAR 3CHWYZ AN ARMY OF PEASANTS FROM THE NEWLY FORMED #ONFEDERATION DEFEATED A FORCE OF !USTRIAN KNIGHTS ,UDWIG OF (ABSBURG WAS FORCED TO CONCEDE YET MORE PRIVILEGES TO THE THREE CANTONS 4HE (ABSBURGS THEN TRIED TO FORCE THE BURGEONING MARKET TOWN OF ,UZERN TRANSPORT HUB FOR THE JOURNEY TO AND FROM THE 'OTTHARD 0ASS TO TAKE UP ARMS AGAINST ITS LAKESIDE NEIGHBOURS ,UZERN INSTEAD THREW IN ITS LOT WITH THE h3CHWYZERSv AND JOINED THE #ONFED ERATION IN 5NABLE TO BRING THE 3WISS TO HEEL (ABSBURG BAILIFFS WITHDREW ALTOGETHER IN ABOUT AND LEFT THE HARD NOSED PEASANTS TO THEIR OWN DEVICES 4HE LOCAL ECONOMY CONTINUED TO mOURISH 4HE FEUDAL SYSTEM BEGAN TO COLLAPSE UNDER PRESSURE FROM AN INCREASINGLY PROS PEROUS AND AMBITIOUS FREE PEASANTRY WHO FORMED AN ARRAY OF DEMOCRATIC RURAL COMMUNES 4HIS WENT HAND IN HAND WITH A RISE IN THE POWER OF URBAN WORKERS :àRICH WHERE THE GUILDS HAD ALREADY OVERTHROWN THE CITYS RULING NOBILITY JOINED THE #ONFEDERATION IN 4INY 'LARUS AND :UG WERE ROPED INTO THE #ONFEDERATION TO SECURE OVERLAND TRANSPORT ROUTES AND THEN "ERN WHICH WAS LOOKING TO EXPAND ITS TERRITORY WESTWARDS JOINED IN TO DEFUSE THE POSSIBILITY OF ATTACK FROM THE EAST BY THE INCREASINGLY POWERFUL #ONFEDERATION 3UDDENLY IN A LITTLE OVER SIXTY YEARS THE INSIGNIlCANT 3CHWYZERS n BORN OUT OF A PACT OF FARMING FOLK n WERE ABLE TO CALL ON AN ARMY OF OVER AND HAD CONTROL OF A LARGE SWATHE OF FORMER (ABSBURG TERRITORY ACROSS THE NORTHERN FOOTHILLS OF THE !LPS 3IMILAR LEAGUES OF ALLIANCE AMONG ORDINARY FARMERS IN IMPENETRABLE 2HAETIA TO THE EAST WERE COALESCING INTO AN ORGANIZED OPPOSITION TO NOBLE (ABSBURG RULE 7HILE BLUE BLOODED (ABSBURG ARMIES SWEPT VICTORIOUS THROUGH THE GREAT CITIES OF 3WABIA IN SOUTHERN 'ERMANY THE VERY SAME ARMIES EXPERIENCED CRUSHING DEFEATS IN 3WITZERLAND BY THE #ONFEDERATE SOLDIERY MOST NOTABLY AT 3EMPACH IN AND .ËFELS IN n BOTH BATTLES WHICH RETAIN RESONANCE TODAY FOR THE 3WISS 4HE EIGHT CANTONS FORMED AN INDEPENDENT STATE WITHIN THE (ABSBURG EMPIRE THAT WAS RULED n UNIQUELY n BY URBAN BURGHERS AND MERCHANTS AND FOUNDED ON PRINCIPLES OF SOCIAL COOPERATION AT A TIME WHEN ELSEWHERE ACROSS %UROPE KINGS PRINCES AND NOBLE DYNASTIES HELD UNCHALLENGED SWAY
-ILITARYªCONQUEST 4HE FIFTEENTH CENTURY SAW CONTINUED EXPANSION &ORCES FROM 5RI AND /BWALDEN CROSSED THE 'OTTHARD TO SEIZE THE 6ALLE ,EVENTINA SOUTH TO "ELLINZONA CRUSHING THE ARMIES OF THE DUKES OF -ILAN AS THEY DID SO WHILE THE #ONFEDERATION TOOK ADVANTAGE OF POPULAR UPRISINGS AGAINST THE ABBOT OF 3T 'ALLEN TO EXTEND THEIR INmUENCE EASTWARDS AND OF A DISPUTE BETWEEN !USTRIA AND ,UXEMBOURG TO SEIZE CONTROL OF THE FERTILE NORTHERN LANDS OF !ARGAU !FTER 3WISS MERCENARIES BECAME KNOWN AND FEARED THROUGHOUT %UROPE FOR THEIR BRAVERY AND MILITARY SKILL TESTED ON BATTLElELDS lGHTING #HARLES THE "OLD OF "URGUNDY 6ICTORIES AT 'RANDSON -URTEN AND .ANCY IN n EFFECTIVELY WIPED "URGUNDY FROM THE MAP AS A REGIONAL POWER BUT LED TO THE lRST OF MANY DISPUTES WITHIN THE #ONFEDERATION OVER THE BALANCE OF POWER BETWEEN TOWNS AND COUNTRYSIDE 2URAL CANTONS WERE LOATH TO SEE "ERN n PRINCIPAL
VICTOR AGAINST #HARLES n BECOME ANY MORE POWERFUL AND ONLY ACCEPTED THE ENTRY OF &RIBOURG AND 3OLOTHURN TO THE #ONFEDERATION IN ON CONDITION THAT THEY TOOK A ROLE OF ARBITRATION TO MODERATE URBAN EXPANSIONISM &OLLOWING :àRICHS VICTORY IN THE 3WABIAN 7AR OF n WHICH WON COMPLETE FREEDOM FOR THE CANTONS FROM THE 'ERMAN %MPIRE n BOTH "ASEL AND 3CHAFFHAUSEN JOINED THE #ONFEDERATION FOLLOWED BY TINY !PPENZELL IN "Y THEN THE THIRTEEN CANTONS POSSESSED EXTENSIVE SUBJECT TERRITORIES INCLUDING !ARGAU 4HURGAU AND A SWATHE OF 4ICINO 4HE lRST 3WISS PARLIAMENT THE $IET MET REGULARLY IN "ADEN AS A FORUM TO BRING #ONFEDERATE OPINION TOGETHER BOTH BY DISCUSSION AND n EVEN AT THIS EARLY DATE n BY MAJORITY VOTING
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4HE 2EFORMATION WHICH BEGAN IN 'ERMANY IN THE EARLY SIXTEENTH CENTURY WAS SPARKED IN 3WITZERLAND BY (ULDRYCH :WINGLI A LAY PRIEST IN :àRICH #ITY AFTER CITY OVERTHREW ITS ECCLESIASTICAL OVERLORDS IN FAVOUR OF THE NEW 0ROT ESTANTISM 3T 'ALLEN "ASEL "IEL 3CHAFFHAUSEN AND IN "ERN )N EACH PLACE THE URBAN GUILDS WERE THE MOTIVE FORCE BEHIND THE OVERTHROW AND ONCE #ATHOLICISM HAD BEEN EJECTED EACH CITY GOVERNMENT GAINED NEW POWER AND AUTHORITY OVER THE COUNTRYSIDE SURROUNDING IT THUS FUELLING RURAL RESENTMENT 7ITH THE #HURCHS LAND AROUND :àRICH PARCELLED OUT TO THE CITY AUTHORITIES THE RURAL PEASANTRY SAW NO BENElT FROM THE CHANGE AND MANY SWITCHED SUPPORT TO THE EXTREME BUT LARGELY INEFFECTUAL !NABAPTIST MOVEMENT WHICH SOUGHT THE ABOLITION OF SERFDOM ALTOGETHER 7HEN :WINGLI PROMULGATED THE CONTRO VERSIAL NOTION OF REORGANIZING THE #ONFEDERACY UNDER THE TWIN CITY LEADERSHIP OF :àRICH AND "ERN MANY RURAL #ATHOLICS RESISTED STRONGLY FEELING BOTH THEIR RELIGIOUS FAITH AND THEIR POLITICAL VOICE TO BE UNDER THREAT #ONmICT BROKE OUT IN IN WHICH :WINGLI WAS KILLED AND THE #ATHOLIC FORCES WON A RIGHT OF VETO IN THE $IET 4HE 2EFORMATION CONTINUED TO SPREAD WITH THE HELP OF "ERNESE FORCES 'ENEVA WON ITS INDEPENDENCE FROM 3AVOY IN AND ACCEPTED THE 2EFORMA TION SHORTLY AFTERWARDS ALONG WITH .EUCHÊTEL ,AUSANNE AND RURAL 6AUD )N THE &RENCH PRIEST *EAN #ALVIN SETTLED IN 'ENEVA ESTABLISHING A RIGID 0ROTES TANT THEOCRACY THAT SPREAD THE CITYS REPUTATION FOR RELIGIOUS ZEAL AND TOLERANCE %UROPE WIDE 4HE SITUATION BECAME FURTHER ENTRENCHED IN THE S AND S WITH THE COALESCING OF THE 2EFORMATION AROUND #ALVINIST DOCTRINE AND THE CONSEQUENT LAUNCH OF THE #OUNTER 2EFORMATION IN A BID TO PRESERVE #ATHOLIC TERRITORY AND REASSERT #ATHOLIC RIGHTS 7ITH THE SUPPORT OF 3PAIN n A MAJOR WORLD POWER n THE #ATHOLIC CANTONS RETAINED THEIR RELIGIOUS IDENTITY IN !PPENZELL SPLIT INTO TWO HALF CANTONS ONE 0ROTESTANT AND ONE #ATHOLIC BUT THEY INCREASINGLY NURTURED AN INFERIORITY COMPLEX TOWARDS THE 0ROTESTANT CITIES WHICH HELD A GRIP ON POLITICAL AUTHORITY AND THE ECONOMY 4HE LATTER HAD STARTED TO TAKE ON NEW VITALITY BOOSTED BY THE PRESENCE OF SKILLED (UGUENOT AND 6ELTLINER CRAFTSPEOPLE n 0ROTESTANT REFUGEES FROM #ATHOLIC REGIMES IN &RANCE AND )TALY
4HEªSEVENTEENTHªCENTURY
4HROUGHOUT THE TENSE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY IT WAS ONLY SHARED ECONOMIC INTER ESTS THAT KEPT THE 3WISS #ONFEDERATION TOGETHER A LUCRATIVE SYSTEM OF TEXTILE PROCESSING DEVELOPED IN WHICH MERCHANTS IN THE CITIES GENERALLY 0ROTESTANT SUPPLIED RAW MATERIALS TO PEASANTS IN THE COUNTRYSIDE GENERALLY #ATHOLIC WHO WORKED UP THE lNISHED PRODUCT AND DELIVERED IT BACK TO THE CITY MERCHANTS FOR TRADING ON OR EXPORT 0OLITICS HOWEVER REMAINED IN DEADLOCK .O NEW REGIONS
4HE 0ROTESTANT VICTORY IN n WHICH ENDED #ATHOLIC HEGEMONY IN CONFED ERAL AFFAIRS n ALSO ENDED TWO CENTURIES OF RELIGIOUS CONmICT AND RESULTED IN A SOCIAL AND ECONOMIC SHIFT IN FAVOUR OF THE LARGELY 0ROTESTANT CITIES #ATHOLIC REGIONS WHICH HAD REMAINED FREE FROM THE DOUR INmUENCE OF #ALVIN ENJOYED RELATIVE FREEDOM IN PERSONAL CONDUCT BUT WERE INDUSTRIALLY BACKWARD WHILE 0ROTESTANT AREAS BENElTED FROM A BETTER EDUCATED POPULACE AND THE PRESENCE OF 0ROTESTANT ARTISANS FROM AROUND %UROPE &RENCH (UGUENOTS IN PARTICULAR THEIR NAME A CORRUPTION OF %IDGENOSSE WERE THE MOTIVE FORCE BEHIND A GROWTH IN URBAN MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES SUCH AS WATCHMAKING IN THE NORTHWEST AND TEXTILES IN THE EAST $URING THE 3WISS INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY COMMERCIAL FARMING ALSO BEGAN TO TAKE HOLD IN THE RURAL CANTONS 4HE SECOND HALF OF THE CENTURY SAW THE LIBERAL %NLIGHTENMENT REPLACING THE RIGOURS OF #ALVINISM WITH WRITERS AND THINKERS SUCH AS *EAN *ACQUES 2OUSSEAU AND (EINRICH 0ESTALOZZI FEEDING A NEW SPIRIT OF (ELVETIC NATIONALISM WHICH BROUGHT #ATHOLICS AND 0ROTESTANTS TOGETHER IN THEIR PATRIOTIC CONCERN FOR THE NATION (OWEVER POLITICAL LIFE BECAME INCREASINGLY CONSERVATIVE &EARFUL OF A REPETI TION OF THE PEASANTS UPRISING URBAN PATRICIAN DYNASTIES ASSERTED THEIR TRADITIONAL PREROGATIVES AND CONCENTRATED POWER IN THEIR OWN HANDS )NCREASING PROSPERITY AND THE INmUENCE OF LIBERAL PHILOSOPHIES IN TOWNS AND COUNTRYSIDE ALIKE LED TO GROWING INTOLERANCE OF PATRICIAN RULE IN ,AUSANNE IN IN 'ENEVA IN IN "ERN IN IN 4ICINO IN AND IN 'ENEVA AGAIN THROUGHOUT THE S POPULAR INSURRECTIONS AGAINST ENTRENCHED SYSTEMIC INJUSTICE DEMONSTRATED A GRASSROOTS DESIRE FOR CHANGE
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COULD BE ADMITTED TO THE #ONFEDERATION SINCE TO DO SO WOULD UPSET THE DELI CATE BALANCE BETWEEN #ATHOLIC AND 0ROTESTANT CANTONS -ISTRUST ON THE PART OF #ATHOLICS OF A PERCEIVED 0ROTESTANT AGENDA FOR DOMINATION OF THE #ONFEDERA TION PREVENTED REORGANIZATION OR REDISTRIBUTION OF JOINTLY ADMINISTERED SUBJECT TERRITORIES WHICH INCLUDED 'RAUBàNDEN AND 6ALAIS 4HIS WARINESS lLTERED OVER INTO FOREIGN POLICY WITH THE CONTINUING TRAFlC IN MERCENARIES ENTANGLING THE #ONFEDERATION IN A COMPLEX WEB OF ARMED NEUTRALITY !LL THE CANTONS HAD PLEDGED TO SUPPLY &RANCE WITH MANPOWER IN ADDITION THE #ATHOLIC ONES HAD LINKS WITH 3PAIN AND 3AVOY THE 0ROTESTANT ONES WITH VARIOUS 'ERMAN PRINCIPALITIES AND THE .ETHERLANDS 4HE "ATTLE OF -ALPLAQUET IN BETWEEN &RANCE AND (OLLAND IS THE MOST FAMOUS EXAMPLE OF 3WISS MERCENARIES TAKING TO THE BATTLElELD AGAINST EACH OTHER 4HE #ONFED ERATION STAYED OUT OF THE 4HIRTY 9EARS 7AR n n THE lRST SIGNIlCANT TEST OF ITS NEUTRALITY n BUT STILL IMPOSED NEW TAXES TO STRENGTHEN ITS FRONTIER DEFENCES )N A PEASANTS REBELLION AGAINST THE NEW AUSTERITIES WAS SUPPRESSED WITH VIOLENCE )N AFTER THE CURRENCY WAS DEVALUED WITHOUT WARNING WIPING OUT THE MEAGRE SAVINGS OF THE RURAL PEASANTRY OVERNIGHT A FULL SCALE 0EASANTS 2EVOLT SET OUT TO RECLAIM ANCIENT RIGHTS ENSHRINED IN AGREEMENTS FROM THE EARLY DAYS OF THE #ONFEDERATION 4HE URBAN PATRICIANS OF "ERN AND ,UZERN CALLED IN THE ARMY TO CRUSH THE REVOLT AND THEN LAUNCHED A CAMPAIGN TO REFORM THE #ONFEDERATE CHARTER IN FAVOUR OF THEMSELVES 4HIS WAS BLOCKED BY THE RURAL CANTONS WHO THEN WENT TO WAR TO SAFEGUARD THEIR INTERESTS )N A MARK OF THE TURBULENCE OF THE PERIOD 0ROTESTANT URBAN ARISTOCRATS AND #ATHOLIC RURAL ARISTOCRATS lRST COMBINED TO CRUSH THE PEASANTRY THEN WITHIN A FEW YEARS TURNED TO FACE EACH OTHER IN BLOODY CONmICT !FTER TWO BATTLES AT 6ILLMERGEN IN AND #ATHOLICS CONCEDED 0ROTESTANT RIGHTS BOTH IN CONFEDERAL MATTERS AND IN ADMINISTERING THE JOINT DEPENDENCIES
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4HE IMPACT IN 3WITZERLAND OF THE &RENCH 2EVOLUTION OF WAS ENORMOUS 4HE #ONFEDERATION ITSELF REMAINED NEUTRAL IN THE BATTLES THAT FOLLOWED BUT POPULAR REVOLUTIONARY DEMONSTRATIONS THROUGHOUT 6AUD n AT THAT TIME A "ERNESE COLONY n AND AT 3TËFA NEAR :àRICH ACTED AS A SPUR TO A FULL SCALE &RENCH INVASION IN BY ARMIES UNDER .APOLEON 2EVOLUTION SWEPT THROUGH THE COUNTRY )N 4ICINO !ARGAU AND THE LOWER 6ALAIS THE OLD PATRICIAN ESTABLISH MENT WAS SWEPT AWAY URBAN RESIDENTS OF "ASEL :àRICH AND 3CHAFFHAUSEN AT A STROKE WON EQUALITY BEFORE THE LAW 6AUD DECLARED ITSELF INDEPENDENT FROM "ERN AND THE BRIEF BURST OF RESISTANCE TO THE &RENCH MOUNTED IN CENTRAL AREAS WAS VIOLENTLY SUPPRESSED /N -ARCH &RENCH FORCES ENTERED "ERN MARKING THE FALL OF THE ANCIEN RÏGIME IN 3WITZERLAND 7ITHIN WEEKS .APOLEON PROMULGATED A NEW CONSTITUTION INTENDED TO REPLACE THE ARCHAIC PATCHWORK OF COMMUNITIES AND PRIVILEGES DECENTRALIZED AUTHORITY AND INTERNECINE MISTRUST THAT HAD PREVAILED SINCE THE -IDDLE !GES (IS BRAVE NEW (ELVETIC 2EPUBLIC hUNITARY AND INDIVISIBLEv DID AWAY WITH CANTONS ALTOGETHER AND INSTEAD VESTED CENTRALIZED POWER &RENCH STYLE NOMINALLY IN THE PEOPLE BUT ACTUALLY IN A lVE MAN EXECUTIVE 4HIS SHOWED JUST HOW DRASTI CALLY .APOLEON UNDERESTIMATED THE 3WISS WHO BROKE THE HABIT OF CENTURIES BY COMING TOGETHER n LIBERAL AND CONSERVATIVE #ATHOLIC AND 0ROTESTANT ALIKE n IN UNANIMOUS REJECTION OF HIS IMPOSED NEW ORDER ! SERIES OF COUPS DÏTAT PROMPTED .APOLEON TO WITHDRAW HIS TROOPS FROM THE COUNTRY IN SHORT ORDER IN #IVIL WAR BROKE OUT AND .APOLEON STEPPED IN AS ARBITRATOR THIS TIME PRUDENTLY URGING THE 3WISS THEMSELVES TO COME UP WITH A CONSTITUTION 4HIS SHORTLIVED -EDIATION AS IT WAS CALLED RESTORED THE NOTION OF AUTONOMOUS CANTONS AND IN ADDITION CONFERRED FULL CANTONAL STATUS ON SIX AREAS PREVIOUSLY UNDER JOINT ADMINISTRATION 3T 'ALLEN 'RAUBàNDEN !ARGAU 4HURGAU 4ICINO AND 6AUD )T ALSO GAVE THE COUNTRY THE NEW TITLE OF THE 3WISS #ONFEDERATION A NAME IT BEARS TODAY
!FTERª.APOLEON 4HE CALM WAS SHORTLIVED ONCE .APOLEON WAS DEFEATED AT 7ATERLOO THE DEMO CRATIC BALANCE IN 3WITZERLAND COLLAPSED 4HE #ONGRESS OF 6IENNA REASSERTED OLD PATRICIAN PRIVILEGES THROUGHOUT %UROPE NOT LEAST IN 3WITZERLAND WHERE ARISTOCRATIC FAMILIES REGAINED CONTROL OVER LOCAL AND FEDERAL POLITICS 'ENEVA .EUCHÊTEL AND 6ALAIS ENTERED THE 3WISS #ONFEDERATION AS NEW CANTONS AND "ERN WAS GRANTED THE *URA AS COMPENSATION FOR ITS LOSSES IN !ARGAU AND 6AUD &OR lFTEEN YEARS THE POLITICAL SITUATION SIMMERED UNTIL STREET lGHTING IN 0ARIS IN SPARKED IN 3WITZERLAND THE 2EGENERATION A SIMILAR MOVEMENT OF LIBERALIZATION 4HIS LED TO SEIZURES OF POWER BY UNITED BANDS OF PEASANTS URBAN MERCHANTS AND CRAFTSPEOPLE WHO DREW UP CANTONAL CONSTITUTIONS ENSHRINING EQUALITY AND POLITICAL RIGHTS FOR ALL n RURAL AND URBAN ALIKE n AND INSTITUTED DEMOCRATIC ELECTIONS TO THE CANTONAL GOVERNMENTS )N THE PATRICIANS OF "ASEL CONDONED A LOCALIZED CIVIL WAR AND THE DIVISION OF THE CANTON INTO TWO ANTAGONISTIC HALF CANTONS RATHER THAN SURRENDER ANY OF THEIR POWERS TO RADICAL ACTIVISTS 3WITZERLAND NONETHELESS ENJOYED AN ECONOMIC BOOM 5NLIKE IN "RITAIN n THE ONLY COUNTRY IN %UROPE MORE INDUSTRIALLY ADVANCED n 3WITZERLAND EXPERIENCED NO RUSH TO THE CITIES BY AN IMPOVERISHED PROLETARIAT 3WISS FACTORIES WHERE THEY EXISTED WERE IN RURAL AREAS AND DREW THEIR LABOUR FROM THE LOCAL PEASANTRY WHO OFTEN CAME TO WORK AFTER TENDING TO THEIR HERDS IN THE lELDS #OTTAGE INDUSTRIES WHERE TEXTILES WERE PROCESSED OR WATCHES ASSEMBLED BY INDIVIDUALS WORKING IN
THEIR OWN HOMES UNDER CONTRACT FROM URBAN SUPPLIERS REMAINED A MAINSTAY OF 3WISS ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT 4HE PIECEMEAL INDIVIDUAL DRIVEN 3WISS TEXTILE INDUSTRY WAS EFlCIENT ENOUGH TO STAVE OFF COMPETITION FROM "RITAINS hDARK SATANIC MILLSv THROUGHOUT THE lRST HALF OF THE CENTURY )N ADDITION NEW AND DIVERSE lELDS OF EXPERTISE IN CHEMICAL PRODUCTION CHOCOLATE MAKING AND TOUR ISM BOOSTED NATIONAL CONlDENCE AND THE IMAGE OF THE COUNTRY IN THE EYES OF THE WORLD
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!FTER THE UPHEAVALS OF THE EARLY S CONmICT BETWEEN RADICAL LIBERALS AND CONSERVATIVE GENERALLY #ATHOLIC ACTIVISTS LED TO INCREASINGLY BITTER SQUABBLES !FTER !ARGAU OVERTURNED RELIGIOUS EQUALITY IN AND ORDERED ALL RELIGIOUS BUILDINGS IN THE CANTON TO BE SHUT DOWN OUTRAGED #ATHOLICS IN NEIGHBOURING ,UZERN NULLIlED THEIR OWN CANTONS NEWLY DRAFTED LIBERAL CONSTITUTION AND n IN A MOVE INTENDED TO PROVOKE n INVITED THE *ESUIT ORDER TO RUN THE SCHOOLS 4HIS IN TURN OUTRAGED RADICAL OPINION WHICH VALUED LIBERAL EDUCATION HIGHLY AND VIEWED *ESUIT CONTROL OF THE SCHOOLS AS NOTHING LESS THAN A STEP BACKWARDS INTO SUPERSTITION 6IOLENT RADICAL LED SCUFmES SOON BROKE OUT AIMED AT ,UZERNS #ATHOLICS )N RESPONSE THE #ATHOLIC CANTONS n ,UZERN :UG 3CHWYZ 5RI /BWALDEN .IDWALDEN &RIBOURG AND 6ALAIS n FORMED AN ILLEGAL RESISTANCE FORCE DUBBED THE 3ONDERBUND 3EPARATIST ,EAGUE WHICH THREATENED TO DESTABILIZE THE COUNTRY $URING A SERIES OF LOCALIZED REVOLUTIONS PUT RADICALS IN CONTROL OF MORE AND MORE CANTONS NATIONWIDE UNTIL BY WITH A MAJORITY IN THE $IET THEY DEMANDED THE EXPULSION OF THE *ESUITS FROM THE COUNTRY THE DRAFTING OF A NEW DEMOCRATIC CONSTITUTION AND THE FORCED DISSOLUTION OF THE 3ONDERBUND #IVIL WAR WAS INEVITABLE AND n AS MUCH TO HEAD OFF INTERVENTION BY THE GREAT %URO PEAN POWERS AS ANYTHING ELSE n THE FEDERAL COMMANDER IN CHIEF 'ENERAL (ENRI $UFOUR TOOK THE OPPORTUNITY TO STRIKE )N A MONTH LONG CAMPAIGN DURING .OVEMBER HE TOOK &RIBOURG AND :UG AND THEN ,UZERN CRUSHING THE HEARTLAND OF THE 3ONDERBUND WITH MINIMAL CASUALTIES 4HE REMAINING #ATHOLIC CANTONS SOON CAPITULATED
3FDPODJMJBUJPOo 4HE POSTWAR &EDERAL #ONSTITUTION OF n STILL IN EFFECT TODAY n MARKED THE BIRTH OF THE MODERN 3WISS STATE )T ENSHRINED A HOST OF LIBERAL MEASURES DESIGNED TO LIMIT PATRICIAN POWER AND TO PERMIT CONTINUED EXPANSION OF INDUSTRY AND THE ECONOMY &OR THE lRST TIME 3WITZERLAND HAD A CENTRAL GOVERNMENT WITH A DIRECTLY ELECTED BICAMERAL PARLIAMENT 4O A BACKGROUND OF REVOLUTIONS BREAKING OUT ALL OVER %UROPE DURING THE RADICAL LIBERALS n CONSCIOUS OF THE CENTURIES OF 3WISS CONmICT BEHIND THEM n DEVISED A CONSTITUTION THAT WAS ABLE TO DEFUSE THE AGE OLD #ATHOLIC FEARS OF 0ROTESTANT DOMINATION 4HEY DID SO PRINCIPALLY BY DIVIDING POWER BETWEEN THE CENTRE AND THE CANTONS THEREBY ALLOWING THE MAJORITY 0ROTESTANTS AND THE MINORITY #ATHOLICS TO ENGAGE IN DEMOCRATIC DEBATE TOGETHER IN THE KNOWLEDGE THAT EACH NEEDED THE OTHER TO SURVIVE $EVOLUTION OF POWER TO SELF GOVERNING CANTONS n FEDERALISM n ALLOWED THE RETENTION OF STRONG #ATHOLIC COMMUNITIES AT THE CANTONAL LEVEL AND THE CREATION OF STRONG 0ROTESTANT LED INSTITUTIONS AT THE NATIONAL LEVEL !ND FOLLOW ING YEARS OF PEACE AND CONSOLIDATION THE FORMAL ADOPTION IN OF THE REFERENDUM AS THE PRIME TOOL FOR CONSULTATION OF THE PEOPLE n ON MATTERS OF LOCAL CANTONAL AND NATIONAL INTEREST ALIKE n ENSURED THAT POLITICIANS REMAINED DIRECTLY ACCOUNTABLE
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!MIDST STEADY ECONOMIC GROWTH IN RAILWAYS TOURISM CHEMICALS ENGINEERING AND HEAVY INDUSTRY NATIONAL RECONCILIATION WAS ALLOWED TO DEVELOP ORGANI CALLY OVER THE SECOND HALF OF THE CENTURY AND WITH IT CAME FURTHER DEMOCRATI ZATION WITH THE ADOPTION OF PROPORTIONAL REPRESENTATION IN CANTONAL ELECTIONS AND THE GROWTH OF CONSULTATION AND COMPROMISE AT EXECUTIVE LEVEL IN THE FEDERAL GOVERNMENT 7ITH A MOOD OF RECONCILIATION AFTER EVER INCREASING NUMBERS OF TOURISTS EXPLORING THE NEWLY FASHIONABLE !LPS HUGE NATIONAL CELEBRATIONS OF SIX HUNDRED YEARS OF 3WISS HISTORY IN AND THE UNVEILING OF THE IDEAL ISTIC MONUMENT TO 7ILLIAM 4ELL IN !LTDORF IN A NEW SPECIlCALLY 3WISS NATIONAL IDENTITY BEGAN TO DEVELOP !LTHOUGH THE APPEAL OF 3WISS NATIONAL UNITY WAS STRONG NATIONALISM THREAT ENED n PARADOXICALLY n TO SPLIT THE COUNTRY APART AGAIN 4HE ALLURINGLY WOOLLY IDEAS THAT DEVELOPED AT THIS TIME OF RACE SOCIAL DARWINISM AND THE MYSTICAL DESTINY SHARED BY ALL PEOPLE WHO SHARED A PARTICULAR LANGUAGE EXEMPLIlED IN THE CONCEPT OF UNITING %UROPES 'ERMAN SPEAKING 6OLK HELD A ROMANTIC SUPRA NATIONAL APPEAL 'ERMAN 3WISS LOOKED TOWARDS THE ACHIEVEMENTS OF 'ERMANY WITH ITS BOOMING ECONOMY MILITARY PROWESS AND ADVANCED SOCIAL WELFARE POLI CIES AND FELT THEMSELVES TO BE PART OF IT DISTANCED FROM THEIR &RENCH SPEAKING COMPATRIOTS 3IMILARLY &RENCH 3WISS LOOKED TOWARDS THE CULTURAL ACHIEVEMENTS OF lN DE SIÒCLE &RANCE AND SAW THEIR 3WISS 'ERMAN NEIGHBOURS AS FOREIGN )TAL IAN SPEAKING 3WISS IN PARTICULAR FELT THE ARBITRARY INTERNATIONAL BORDER BETWEEN THEM AND THE hRESTv OF )TALY TO BE INCREASINGLY ABSURD !T THE DAWN OF THE TWEN TIETH CENTURY THE 3WISS HAD STOPPED TALKING TO EACH OTHER
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/FFICIALLY 3WITZERLAND STAYED OUT OF 7ORLD 7AR ) )N PRACTICE THE ARMY HAD BEEN hTHOROUGHLY 0RUSSIANIZEDv AS *ONATHAN 3TEINBERG PUTS IT AND ITS COMMANDERS SAW NO REASON NOT TO SUPPORT 'ERMANY !S SOON AS WAR BROKE OUT IN THE SUMMER OF 3WITZERLAND BEGAN PASSING MILITARY INTELLIGENCE TO "ERLIN 4HE MOOD WITHIN THE COUNTRY SOURED AS 'ERMAN AND &RENCH 3WISS RETREATED FROM EACH OTHER BOTH BACKING OPPOSITE SIDES IN THE WAR )N AN ECHO OF THE TRENCHES OF NORTHERN &RANCE A 'RABEN OR TRENCH OPENED UP ALONG THE LANGUAGE BORDER BETWEEN THE TWO &RENCH 3WISS WERE INCREASINGLY OUTRAGED BY THEIR ARMYS PRO 'ERMAN BIAS %CONOMIC CONDITIONS WERE HARD COMPOUNDED BY THE NEED TO MAINTAIN A FRONTIER FORCE AND TO SUPPORT A GROWING NUMBER OF REFUGEES AND ASYLUM SEEK ERS )N AND ,ENIN 4ROTSKY AND :INOVIEV WERE ALL RESIDENT IN 3WIT ZERLAND AND THE INmUENCE OF THEIR REVOLUTIONARY SOCIALIST AGITATION AS WELL AS SUBSEQUENT NEWS OF THE SUCCESSFUL 2USSIAN 2EVOLUTION SPURRED 3WISS WORKERS ON TO A 'ENERAL 3TRIKE IN .OVEMBER &OR THREE DAYS THE &EDERAL #OUNCIL DITHERED THEN CALLED IN THE ARMY 4HE STRIKERS CAPITULATED SOON AFTERWARDS AND WENT BACK TO WORK BUT HAD MADE THEIR POINT IN A REFERENDUM IN THE 3WISS PEOPLE APPROVED THE ADOPTION OF PROPORTIONAL REPRESENTATION IN NATIONAL ELECTIONS n A MAJOR PLANK OF THE WORKERS CONCERNS SINCE MAJORITY VOTING HAD EFFECTIVELY EXCLUDED THE 3OCIALIST 0ARTY FROM REAL POWER 4HE &EDERAL #OUNCIL ACKNOWLEDGED THE BENElTS OF COMPROMISE AND MET THE STRIKE COMMITTEE FACE TO FACE 3OON AFTER POLICIES ON WELFARE EXPANSION AND A HOUR WORKING WEEK BECAME LAW
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4HE RISE IN POWER OF A SOCIALIST MINDED PROLETARIAT AFTER THE WAR PROMPTED A CORRESPONDING RISE IN THE OLD FORCES OF #ATHOLIC CONSERVATISM RURAL FARMERS
QUICKLY WON A PLACE ON THE &EDERAL #OUNCIL ALONGSIDE THE URBAN 2ADICALS !S ELSEWHERE THE ECONOMIC BUBBLE OF THE S BURST IN THE EARLY S WITH A CRIPPLING DEPRESSION HALVING OUTPUT DECIMATING INCOMES AND CAUSING HUGE UNEMPLOYMENT !T THE SAME TIME COSY DOMESTIC COALITIONS WERE BREAKING DOWN UNDER THE INmUENCE OF PROPORTIONAL REPRESENTATION WHICH BROUGHT A MYRIAD OF ECONOMIC AND POLITICAL INTEREST GROUPS INTO PARLIAMENT !FTER (ITLERS RISE TO POWER IN 'ERMANY IN SYMPATHETIC .AZI hFRONTSv EMERGED GATHERING SUPPORT NATIONWIDE FROM RIGHT WING CONSERVATIVES AND HARD HIT PETTY BOURGEOIS MERCHANTS WHO TOGETHER PROPOSED REVISION OF THE &EDERAL #ONSTITUTION "UT BOTH A DEVALUATION OF THE FRANC IN WHICH BOOSTED 3WISS INDUSTRY IN THE RUN UP TO WAR AND A NEW PARTNERSHIP OF LIBERALS AND SOCIAL DEMOCRATS n WHO IN THE FACE OF SPREADING FASCISM HAD TOGETHER ABANDONED THE IDEAL OF CLASS WAR n WERE EFFECTIVELY ABLE TO SIDELINE THESE AUTHORITARIAN MOVEMENTS IN FAVOUR OF CONTINUED DEMOCRATIC DEBATE !S WAR BECAME MORE AND MORE LIKELY 3WITZERLAND BOLSTERED ITS OWN NATIONAL INSTITUTIONS AFlRMING THE STATUS OF 2OMANSH AS A NATIONAL LANGUAGE AUTHORIZING WIDESPREAD OFlCIAL USAGE OF 3WISS 'ERMAN AS A DISTANCING MEASURE FROM THE (IGH 'ERMAN OF THE 4HIRD 2EICH AND SHOWCASING HOME GROWN ACHIEVEMENTS AT A .ATIONAL %XHIBITION IN )N ADDITION IT READIED ITS ECONOMY AND INDUSTRY FOR WAR PASSING A SERIES OF LAWS TO PROTECT INDIVIDUAL EARNINGS SHOULD MOBILIZATION BECOME NECESSARY AND INTRODUCING ANONYMOUS NUMBERED BANK ACCOUNTS TO PROTECT THE SAVINGS OF 'ERMAN *EWS FROM SEIZURE BY THE .AZIS
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!S ACROSS %UROPE ANTI 3EMITISM WORKED ITS WAY INTO OFlCIAL 3WISS POLICY OVER DECADES &REEDOM OF RESIDENCE AND CIVIC AND LEGAL EQUALITY HAD BEEN GRANTED TO *EWS IN 3WITZERLAND ONLY IN AND EVEN IN THE GLOW OF PAN (ELVETIC PRIDE IN DIVERSITY AROUND THE NATIONAL ANNIVERSARY A REFERENDUM WAS PASSED IN BANNING *EWISH RITUAL SLAUGHTER OF ANIMALS ON OSTENSIBLY COMPASSIONATE GROUNDS RITUAL SLAUGHTER REMAINS ILLEGAL IN 3WITZERLAND TODAY 2USSIAN POGROMS IN THE S RESULTED IN mOODS OF DESTITUTE *EWS HEADING WEST ACROSS %UROPE AND SUBSEQUENT CONCERNS ABOUT ÄBERFREMDUNG OR FOREIGN INlLTRATION OF 3WITZERLAND SHOWED THEMSELVES IN DISCRIMINATORY IMMIGRATION POLICIES THAT REQUIRED ASSIMILATION BEFORE CIVIC PROTECTION COULD BE CONFERRED IN VIRTUALLY ALL CASES *EWS WHO APPLIED FOR REFUGEE STATUS WERE DEEMED TO BE ALIEN TO 3WISS SOCIETY AND THUS UNASSIMILABLE !S THE %UROPEAN SITUATION WORSENED DURING THE S 3WITZERLAND SEARCHED FOR A WAY TO KEEP THE *EWS OUT n AS DID MANY %UROPEAN GOVERNMENTS n WITHOUT BEING SEEN TO COMPROMISE THEIR REPUTATION FOR NEUTRALITY AND TRADITION OF PROVIDING ASYLUM )N IN RESPONSE TO A SPECIlC REQUEST TO THE 'ESTAPO MADE BY 3WITZERLANDS POLICE CHIEF 'ERMANY ORDERED THAT THE PASSPORTS OF ALL hNON !RYANv 'ERMANS n THAT IS *EWS n BE STAMPED WITH A h*v TO IDENTIFY THEM TO BORDER GUARDS WHO WERE THEN INSTRUCTED TO TURN THEM BACK !FTER !UGUST RACIAL PERSECUTION ALONE WAS DEEMED TO BE NOT SUFlCIENT GROUNDS FOR EMERGENCY ADMISSION TO THE COUNTRY AND THE BORDERS WERE EFFECTIVELY CLOSED /NLY TWELVE *EWS IN EACH YEAR OF THE WAR WERE GRANTED 3WISS NATURALIZATION PAPERS AND OF SOME REFUGEES WHO WERE ACCEPTED INTO 3WITZERLAND JUST TEN PERCENT WERE *EWISH 3URVIVING RECORDS TESTIFY TO *EWS BEING TURNED BACK AT THE BORDERS BUT THE REAL lGURE MUST HAVE BEEN VASTLY HIGHER "Y AUTUMN THE 2ED #ROSS IN 'ENEVA KNEW UNEQUIVOCALLY OF THE SYSTEMATIC MURDER OF *EWS IN .AZI DEATH CAMPS 5NDER PRESSURE FROM THE 3WISS GOVERNMENT IT DID AND SAID NOTHING 4HE BORDERS REMAINED CLOSED ! FEW INDIVIDUALS WITHIN 3WITZERLAND WERE WORKING AGAINST THE POLICIES OF THE
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)N THE SUMMER OF 3WITZERLAND MOBILIZED BETWEEN TEN AND TWENTY PERCENT OF ITS ENTIRE POPULATION IN PREPARATION FOR WAR 'ERMANY HAD ALREADY INVADED !USTRIA IN UNDER THE PRETEXT OF hUNIONv !NSCHLUSS AND BY *UNE $ENMARK .ORWAY (OLLAND "ELGIUM ,UXEMBOURG AND &RANCE HAD ALL SUCCUMBED -USSOLINIS &ASCIST )TALY LAY TO THE SOUTH 3WITZERLAND WAS SURROUNDED !N INVASION BY THE !XIS POWERS SEEMED IMMINENT AND ON *ULY FOLLOWING A CONTROVERSIAL SPEECH HINTING AT ADVANTAGES TO BE GAINED BY COLLUSION WITH "ERLIN THE 3WISS COMMANDER IN CHIEF 'ENERAL 'UISAN ALONG WITH THE ENTIRE 3WISS OFlCER CORPS TOOK SHIP IN ,UZERN FOR THE 2àTLI MEADOW SEMI MYTHICAL SCENE OF THE FOUNDING OF THE #ONFEDERATION IN 4HERE AT THIS MOST RESONANT SPOT 'UISAN REAFlRMED THE 3WISS COMMITMENT TO RESISTANCE AND NEUTRALITY AND CONDUCTED A CEREMONY AT WHICH ALL OFlCERS DID THE SAME 2UMBLINGS OF DISCONTENT AMONG JUNIOR OFlCERS AT THE HINTS OF COLLABORATION IN THE UPPER ECHELONS OF COMMAND WERE THUS QUELLED !ND YET IT IS NOW CLEAR THAT COLLABORATION CONTINUED APACE 5NLIKE IN THE PREVIOUS WAR THIS TIME THE mOUTING OF 3WISS NEUTRALITY WAS USEFULLY CONCEALED BENEATH A GLOW OF NATIONAL PRIDE AND UNITY FUELLED BY THE 2àTLI DECLARATION 4HE ROLE OF 3WITZERLAND IN 7ORLD 7AR )) IS STILL HIGHLY CONTROVERSIAL BUT HISTO RIANS NOW ACCEPT THAT THE COUNTRY ESCAPED .AZI INVASION NOT SIMPLY THROUGH THE DOGGEDNESS AND TENACITY OF ITS TROOPS AS 3WISS HISTORY BOOKS HAVE LONG MAINTAINED "OTH THE !LLIED AND THE !XIS POWERS WERE VERY WELL SERVED BY HAVING AN OSTENSIBLY NEUTRAL STABLE 3WITZERLAND AT THE HEART OF WAR TORN %UROPE 4HE COUNTRYS ROLE AS A BANKING AND lNANCIAL CENTRE WAS PIVOTAL BOTH SIDES NEEDED TO BUY WAR MATERIEL AND RESOURCES AND DURING THE WAR THE ONLY TRULY CONVERTIBLE CURRENCY ACCEPTED FOR PAYMENT WORLDWIDE WAS THE 3WISS FRANC "ASELS "ANK OF )NTERNATIONAL 3ETTLEMENTS n A BANK OF NATIONAL BANKS WITH BOARD MEMBERS DRAWN FROM THE 53 "RITAIN &RANCE 'ERMANY AND ELSEWHERE n KEPT THE WHEELS OF INTERNATIONAL CAPITALISM TURNING AND WAS THE ONLY PLACE WHERE HIGH LEVEL MEETINGS CONTINUED IN EXTREME SECRECY BETWEEN !LLIED AND !XIS OFlCIALS MEETINGS THAT WERE TREASONOUS BY THE STANDARDS OF BOTH 2IGHT UP UNTIL THE FALL OF "ERLIN IN THE 3WISS .ATIONAL "ANK ACCEPTED GOLD FROM 'ERMANY IN EXCHANGE FOR 3WISS FRANCS IN THE FULL AND CERTAIN KNOWLEDGE THAT "ERLIN WOULD THEN USE THE MONEY TO KEEP THE !XIS WAR MACHINE SUPPLIED AND THAT THE INGOTS ARRIVING AT "ERN HAD BEEN LOOTED FROM THE BANKS OF INVADED COUNTRIES ANDOR MELTED DOWN FROM THE POSSESSIONS AND EVEN THE TEETH OF DEAD *EWS )N ADDITION (ITLER NEEDED A PEACEFUL 3WITZERLAND TO KEEP THE !LPINE PASSES THAT LINKED 'ERMANY AND )TALY OPEN AND ALSO BENElTED FROM 3WISS INDUSTRY WHICH CONTINUED TO SUPPLY THE 4HIRD 2EICH WITH GUNS AMMUNITION AND HEAVY ARTILLERY IN EXCHANGE FOR ESSENTIAL RAW MATERIALS AND FOOD !FTER THE 2àTLI GATHERING 'ENERAL 'UISAN ORDERED 3WISS FRONTIER DEFENCE POSITIONS TO WITHDRAW FROM THE NATIONAL BORDERS IN ORDER TO FORTIFY POSITIONS WITHIN THE HIGH !LPINE CHAIN 4HE RÏDUIT NATIONAL h&ORTRESS 3WITZERLANDv TOOK SHAPE AT ALMOST ANY POINT AFTER (ITLER COULD HAVE CROSSED THE FRONTIER AND TAKEN THE ENTIRE POPULATED LOWLANDS n "ASEL :àRICH "ERN 'ENEVA AND THE COUNTRYSIDE n WITHOUT A lGHT AND REDUCED INDEPENDENT 3WITZERLAND TO A SCAT TERING OF SNOWBOUND BUNKERS IN THE HIGH !LPS "UT SUCH AN INVASION WOULD HAVE IMPOVERISHED THE 2EICH )N REALITY 3WITZERLAND WAS SAFE THE MILITARY KUDOS TO BE GAINED BY (ITLERS HAVING A SUBDUED OCCUPIED 3WITZERLAND SUBJECT TO !LLIED BOMBING WAS VASTLY OUTWEIGHED BY THE MATERIAL BENElT OF HIS NURTURING A
NOMINALLY NEUTRAL INDEPENDENT 3WITZERLAND THAT REMAINED ENTHUSIASTICALLY OPEN FOR BUSINESS 4HE MORAL CONSEQUENCES OF THIS FOR THE 3WISS THEMSELVES ARE ONLY NOW BEING FELT DECADES LATER
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0ATRICK +URY A HISTORIAN AT THE 5NIVERSITY OF "ASEL HAS WRITTEN h!FTER 7ORLD 7AR )) THE LACK OF EXPERIENCE OF WAR MADE 3WISS PEOPLE BELIEVE THAT THEY WERE A KIND OF CHOSEN PEOPLE LIVING OUTSIDE HISTORY 4HIS STRANGE BELIEF GOES TOGETHER WITH THE MISCONCEPTION THAT BETWEEN AND 3WITZERLAND HAD FOLLOWED A HUMANITARIAN TRADITION AND HAD NEVER PRACTISED AN ANTI *EWISH ;POLICY= )N THE POSTWAR PERIOD NEUTRALITY n THE NUMBER ONE STATE MAXIM n ALSO HELPED TO NEUTRALIZE ANALYSIS AND DISCUSSIONv 4HE GLOW OF NATIONAL PRIDE IN HAVING REACHED WARS END UNSCATHED n DESPITE THE FACT THAT 3WITZERLANDS CITIZEN ARMY HAD MERELY KEPT ITS HEAD DOWN AND THAT NEITHER !LLIED NOR !XIS POWERS HAD HAD THE SLIGHTEST INTENTION OF INVADING n WAS INTOXICATING AND THE 3WISS FELT THEMSELVES TO BE SPECIAL THE TERM 3ONDERFALL 3CHWEIZ OR h3WITZERLAND AS A 3PECIAL #ASEv IS OFTEN USED TO DESCRIBE THE PERIOD 4HE EXTENT OF OFlCIAL COLLABORATION WITH BOTH WARRING PARTIES WAS WIDELY KNOWN BY FOREIGN GOVERNMENTS n WHO SHUNNED 3WITZERLAND IMMEDI ATELY POSTWAR n BUT WAS GENERALLY NOT EVEN SUSPECTED BY ORDINARY 3WISS )N 3WITZERLAND THINGS CONTINUED AFTER THE WAR MUCH AS THEY HAD DONE BEFORE 7HILE THE NEW WORLD ORDER EXPRESSED ITSELF IN THE ESTABLISHMENT OF THE 5NITED .ATIONS IN 3WITZERLAND STUCK TIGHT TO ITS NEUTRALITY AND STAYED OUT "Y INTERNATIONAL DIPLOMATIC RELATIONS HAD BEEN REPAIRED AND 3WITZERLAND n WITH ITS INTACT INDUSTRY LOW TAXES AND SOCIO POLITICAL STABILITY n TOOK ON THE ROLE OF CATALYST TO %UROPEAN RECONSTRUCTION !T A TIME OF AUSTERITY 3WISS BANKS WERE ABLE TO DRAW ON LARGE CAPITAL RESERVES THANKS IN LARGE PART IT IS NOW CLEAR TO THEIR WARTIME POLICY OF ACCEPTING LOOTED GOLD FROM "ERLIN 7ITH THE #OLD 7AR FEAR OF THE SPREAD OF #OMMUNISM TOOK OVER FROM FEAR OF THE SPREAD OF &ASCISM 3WISS POLITICAL PARTIES THAT WERE ALREADY ROOTED IN CONCORDANCE MOVED TOGETHER INTO A ROCK SOLID NATIONAL CONSENSUS $UBBED AFTER THE hMAGIC FORMULAv THIS ENSURED TWO SEATS ON THE &EDERAL #OUNCIL WENT TO THE MODERATE LEFT ,IBERALS TWO TO THE MODERATE RIGHT #HRISTIAN $EMO CRATS TWO TO THE LEFT WING 3OCIAL $EMOCRATS AND ONE TO THE RIGHT WING 0EOPLES 0ARTY FOUR WERE RESERVED FOR 'ERMAN SPEAKERS AND THREE FOR &RENCH AND )TALIAN SPEAKERS REmECTING THE LANGUAGE DIVISION IN THE COUNTRY !LONG WITH MOST OF THE REST OF 7ESTERN %UROPE 3WITZERLAND EXPERIENCED A CYCLE OF ECONOMIC FORTUNES CONSOLIDATION IN THE S BOOM IN THE S RECESSION IN THE S ENTRENCHMENT AND READJUSTMENT IN THE S STREAM LINED GROWTH IN THE S (OWEVER DESPITE MASSIVE ADVANCES IN PERSONAL AND NATIONAL WEALTH AND SUCCESS IN ADAPTING TRADITIONAL INDUSTRIES TO THE NEW ERA n EXEMPLIlED BY THE LAUNCH OF 3WATCH A SLICK NEW COMPANY THAT DRAGGED THE 3WISS WATCH INDUSTRY OUT OF ITS FUSTINESS n IT TOOK UNTIL THE S FOR 3WITZERLAND TO BRING ITSELF FULLY INTO LINE WITH %UROPEAN CONCEPTIONS OF SOCIAL MODERNITY 7OMEN GOT THE VOTE IN NATIONAL ELECTIONS ONLY IN DECADES BEHIND MOST OTHER %UROPEAN COUNTRIES AS LATE AS ONE CANTON !PPENZELL )NNER 2HODES HAD TO BE FORCED TO ACCEPT WOMEN ONTO THE CANTONAL ELECTORAL ROLL BY THE &EDERAL 3UPREME #OURT !S THE 7ESTERN %UROPEAN POWERS DREW TOGETHER IN AN EVER CLOSER COMMON MARKET THE INSULAR 3WISS LOOKED ON THE NATIONAL MOOD STILL ONE OF h&ORTRESS 3WITZERLANDv THROUGHOUT THE POSTWAR PERIOD 3WITZERLAND CONSISTENTLY VOTED AGAINST JOINING INTERNATIONAL BODIES OF POLITICAL COOPERATION )N A PROPOSAL
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FOR 5NITED .ATIONS MEMBERSHIP RECEIVED A RESOUNDING hNOv FROM PERCENT OF 3WISS VOTERS 3INCE 3WITZERLAND HAD BEEN A MEMBER OF THE %URO PEAN &REE 4RADE !REA %&4! A PURELY COMMERCIAL BODY WITHOUT POLITICAL AMBITIONS 7HEN ITS %&4! PARTNERS 3WEDEN &INLAND AND !USTRIA APPLIED TO JOIN THE %UROPEAN 5NION IN 3WITZERLAND WAS FORCED TO FOLLOW SUIT 0UT TO THE VOTE THE NATIONAL MARGIN OF DEFEAT WAS NARROW BUT ANALYSIS OF THE lGURES SHOWED THAT PERCENT HAD VOTED YES IN FRANCOPHONE 2OMANDIE BUT JUST PERCENT HAD VOTED YES IN 'ERMAN SPEAKING AREAS ROUGHLY SIMILAR lGURES TAKEN AS A NATIONAL WHOLE SPLIT PRO %5 URBAN VOTERS AWAY FROM ANTI %5 RURAL VOTERS 4HE lGURES REIGNITED NATIONAL SOUL SEARCHING OVER THE AGE OLD SOCIAL AND LINGUISTIC DIVIDE AND 3WITZERLAND SHELVED ITS APPLICATION !FTER THIS SOUL SEARCHING WAS EXPLOITED BY A NEW BLOC OF STRIDENT RIGHT WING OPINION SHAPED AND LED BY THE NOTORIOUS #HRISTOPH "LOCHER LEADER OF THE :àRICH SECTION OF THE 360 3WISS 0EOPLES 0ARTY WHO CAMPAIGNED THROUGH OUT THE S ON A PLATFORM OF ANTI %5 ANTI IMMIGRATION RHETORIC WRAPPED UP IN A CLOAK OF PRO 3WISS PRO NEUTRALITY PLATITUDES !MIDST A mOUNDERING ECON OMY FOLLOWING THE REJECTION OF %5 MEMBERSHIP n 3WITZERLAND HAD THE WEAKEST GROWTH RATE IN WESTERN %UROPE IN THE PERIOD n n PARLIAMENTARY TIME WAS TAKEN UP WITH ENDLESS AMENDMENTS TO BRING 3WISS LAW INTO LINE WITH %5 LAW POPULAR OPINION NOTWITHSTANDING THE COUNTRY SIMPLY COULDNT AFFORD TO IGNORE THE DIRECTION ITS NEIGHBOURS WERE HEADING IN 4HE 3WISS GOVERNMENT FORCED TO SEEK UNORTHODOX METHODS OF COOPERATION EMBARKED ON TALKS WITH THE %5 TO DRAW UP A SERIES OF BILATERAL ACCORDS -EANWHILE THE COSY hMAGIC FORMULAv BEGAN TO CRUMBLE IN THE ELECTIONS #HRISTIAN $EMOCRAT SUPPORT DROPPED AWAY WHILE "LOCHERS 360 WON THE LARGEST SHARE OF THE VOTE "LOCHERS RISE WAS BOOSTED BY A SERIES OF SCANDALS THROUGHOUT THE S THAT SENT THE COUNTRY REELING 3UDDENLY AS IF FROM NOWHERE THE SQUEAKY CLEAN IMAGE THAT POSTWAR GENERATIONS HAD OF THEMSELVES AND THEIR COUNTRY WAS SHOWN TO HAVE BEEN AN ILLUSION )N %LIZABETH +OPP THE lRST WOMAN TO SERVE AS A &EDERAL #OUNCILLOR n AND SOMETHING OF AN ICON OF THE NEW 3WITZERLAND n HAD TO RESIGN WHEN IT WAS REVEALED THAT SHE HAD TIPPED OFF HER HUSBAND ABOUT ONGOING INVESTIGATIONS INTO HIS lNANCIAL DEALINGS 4HE SAME YEAR IT EMERGED THAT THE 3WISS SECRET POLICE HAD BEEN KEEPING lLES ON INDIVIDUALS UNDER THE GUISE OF MONITORING ANTI PATRIOTIC ACTIVITY !N ACCOUNTANT IN THE DEFENCE DEPARTMENT UNDER INVESTIGATION IN A MULTIMILLION FRANC FRAUD CASE n THE LARGEST IN 3WISS HISTORY n TURNED OUT TO BE AN INTELLIGENCE AGENT AND CLAIMED HE HAD WITHDRAWN THE MONEY ON THE ORDERS OF HIS BOSS TO FUND THE SECRET TRAINING OF A SHADY BATTALION OF HIGHLY ARMED AGENTS FOR PURPOSES UNKNOWN "UT THE STORY THAT HIT THE INTERNATIONAL HEADLINES AND BROUGHT 3WITZERLAND INTO THE UNCOMFORTABLE GLARE OF GLOBAL ATTENTION CONCERNED ITS WARTIME RECORD
7ARTIMEªREAPPRAISAL
7ITH THE END OF THE #OLD 7AR IN FORMER #OMMUNIST COUNTRIES IN %ASTERN %UROPE OPENED THEIR BORDERS AND THEIR STATE ARCHIVES *EWS WHO HAD SURVIVED THE (OLOCAUST BEGAN PETITIONING THE GOVERNMENTS IN 7ARSAW "UDAPEST 0RAGUE AND ELSEWHERE n OFTEN WITH THE HELP OF INTERNATIONAL *EWISH ORGANIZATIONS SUCH AS THE .EW 9ORK BASED 7ORLD *EWISH #ONGRESS 7*# n FOR RETURN OF PROP ERTY THAT HAD BEEN SEIZED BY THE .AZIS )N THE lFTIETH ANNIVERSARY OF THE END OF 7ORLD 7AR )) PROMPTED APOLOGIES FROM MANY 7ESTERN GOVERNMENTS FOR THEIR ACTIVITIES DURING WARTIME 3WISS 0RESIDENT +ASPAR 6ILLIGER OFlCIALLY APOLO GIZED FOR THE INTRODUCTION OF THE h*v STAMP IN THE PASSPORTS OF 'ERMAN *EWS AND FOR 3WITZERLANDS CLOSING ITS BORDERS TO *EWISH REFUGEES AT THE HEIGHT OF THE &INAL 3OLUTION -EANWHILE 7*# RESEARCHERS HAD BEEN RECORDING CASE AFTER CASE
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OF (OLOCAUST SURVIVORS BEING REFUSED ACCESS TO THEIR DEAD RELATIVES ACCOUNTS IN 3WISS BANKS OFTEN ON SPURIOUS GROUNDS SUCH AS NOT PROVIDING A DEATH CERTIl CATE 4HEY BEGAN TO SMELL A RAT AND TURNED TO THE 53 .ATIONAL !RCHIVES WHICH HELD OFlCIAL WARTIME GOVERNMENT RECORDS TRACKING THE mOW OF MONEY THROUGH 3WITZERLAND 4HEY UNCOVERED RECORDS SHOWING THAT THE 3WISS BANKS WERE NOT JUST SITTING ON THE ASSETS OF DEAD *EWS BUT THAT THEY HAD ALSO ACCEPTED VAST QUANTITIES OF OBVIOUSLY LOOTED GOLD AS PART OF A HITHERTO ONLY GUESSED AT SECRET SEMI OFlCIAL NETWORK OF ECONOMIC COLLUSION WITH THE 4HIRD 2EICH 4HE STORY RAPIDLY HIT THE HEADLINES AND PRESSURE BUILT FOR OFlCIAL INVESTIGATIONS TO BEGIN )N THE 3WISS "ANKERS !SSOCIATION DISINGENUOUSLY ANNOUNCED IT HAD UNCOVERED A MERE &R MILLION IN HEIRLESS ACCOUNTS 0RESSURE BUILT THROUGHOUT THE YEAR WITH THE 7*# AND OTHER ORGANIZATIONS n *EWISH AND NOT n DEMANDING FULL ACCESS TO BANKS ARCHIVES TO GET TO THE BOTTOM OF THE STORY )N A SECURITY GUARD WORKING AT 5"3 #HRISTOPH -EILI MADE PUBLIC THE FACT THAT THE BANK WAS SECRETLY SHREDDING LARGE QUANTITIES OF PREWAR DOCUMENTS -EILI WAS lRED FOR VIOLATING THE BANKS SECRECY AND PROSECUTED SHORTLY AFTERWARDS BUT BECAME SOMETHING OF A FOLK HERO NOT LEAST TO LIBERAL MINDED 3WISS WHO WERE GETTING INCREASINGLY UNCOMFORTABLE WITH THE BANKS ATTITUDE )T WAS BECOMING CLEAR TO THE 3WISS ESTABLISHMENT THAT THE GAME WAS UP THE PRESIDENT !RNOLD +OLLER ATTEMPTED TO HEAD OFF THE ONCOMING ONSLAUGHT BY PROPOSING THE lNANC ING OF A &R BILLION FUND FROM THE GOLD RESERVES OF THE 3WISS .ATIONAL "ANK TO SUPPORT 3WISS AND FOREIGN VICTIMS OF OPPRESSION AND NATURAL DISASTER n THE SO CALLED 3WISS 3OLIDARITY &OUNDATION 4HEN A LOCAL NEWSPAPER REVEALED THAT #REDIT 3UISSE n ANOTHER MAJOR 3WISS BANK n HAD OPENED AN ACCOUNT FOR THE .AZI 33 DURING THE WAR AND THAT THE "ANK FOR )NTERNATIONAL 3ETTLEMENTS IN "ASEL HAD ACTED AS A SAFE CONDUIT FOR MUCH OF THE 2EICHS LOOTED GOLD 4HE 7*# PUBLICIZED DOCUMENTS FROM THE 53 .ATIONAL !RCHIVE STATING THAT *APAN WARTIME ALLY OF THE .AZIS HAD ALSO USED 3WISS BANKS -EANWHILE THE BANKS THEMSELVES WERE SCRABBLING TO PROVE THEIR GOOD FAITH &R MILLION THAT HAD LAIN IN DORMANT ACCOUNTS SINCE THE WAR WAS RETURNED TO THE DESCENDANTS OF ACCOUNT HOLDERS 4HE AFFAIR WAS SOURING INTERNATIONAL RELATIONS 3WITZERLAND MADE OFlCIAL COMPLAINTS TO THE ""# OVER A DOCUMENTARY ENTITLED h.AZI 'OLDv #ANADA WAS FORCED TO ADMIT THAT IT HAD LAUNDERED AT LEAST SIX TONS OF .AZI GOLD VIA 3WITZERLAND AND 0ORTUGAL 53 PRESIDENT "ILL #LINTON AND THE 53 #ONGRESS GRANTED THE BANK SECURITY GUARD #HRISTOPH -EILI ASYLUM AND 5"3 DROPPED THE CASE AGAINST HIM IN THE 3WISS COURTS AND APOLOGIZED !MIDST THE TIDE OF ACCUSATION AND COUNTER ACCUSATION THE 2ED #ROSS ISSUED AN UNPRECEDENTED STATEMENT ADMITTING A hMORAL FAILUREv IN NOT HAVING SPOKEN OUT DURING THE WAR AGAINST THE ONGOING GENOCIDE OF THE *EWS )N A COMMITTEE OF HISTORIANS CHAIRED BY *EAN &RAN OIS "ERGIER REPORTED THAT IN ADDITION TO THE MILLION OF GOLD PURCHASED FROM .AZI 'ERMANY BY THE 3WISS .ATIONAL "ANK APPROXIMATELY BILLION IN MODERN DAY TERMS SOME MILLION OF .AZI GOLD HAD BEEN BOUGHT BY THE 3WISS COMMER CIAL BANKS AMONG WHICH WERE 5"3 AND #REDIT 3UISSE THREE TIMES MORE THAN PREVIOUSLY THOUGHT 4HE "ERGIER COMMISSION CONlRMED THAT THE 3WISS .ATIONAL "ANK HAD KNOWN THAT MUCH OF THE GOLD THEY WERE BUYING HAD BEEN LOOTED FROM OCCUPIED COUNTRIES AND ALSO THAT OFlCIALS HAD BEEN AWARE THAT THE .AZIS WERE ROBBING *EWS AND OTHER PERSECUTED GROUPS BEFORE EXTERMINATING THEM 7ITH AN ARRAY OF LAWSUITS BROUGHT BY TENS OF THOUSANDS OF (OLOCAUST SURVIVORS MAKING THEIR WAY SLOWLY THROUGH THE 53 COURTS AND ESCALATING THREATS OF A 3WISSn53 TRADE WAR THE INTERNATIONAL PRESSURE ON THE 3WISS BANKS TO ACKNOWL EDGE CULPABILITY FOR THEIR WARTIME ACTIVITIES AND THEIR SUBSEQUENT ATTEMPTS TO BLOCK INVESTIGATION WAS INEXORABLE )N DESPERATE TO SEE AN END TO THE
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STORY THE THREE LARGEST BANKS #REDIT 3UISSE 5"3 AND 3"# OFFERED BILLION THE SO CALLED GLOBAL SETTLEMENT SUM TO SETTLE ALL CLAIMS CONNECTED WITH (OLOCAUST ERA ASSETS !CCORDING TO A POLL LESS THAN HALF THE 3WISS POPULATION DECLARED ITSELF CONTENT WITH THE OUTCOME MOST OF THEM BELIEVING THE lGURE TO BE TOO HIGH -EANWHILE THE DAMAGING REVELATIONS CONTINUED TO EMERGE MOST NOTABLY WHEN THE 2ED #ROSS WAS FORCED TO ACKNOWLEDGE DEEP REGRET OVER THE FACT THAT IT ISSUED *OSEF -ENGELE THE INFAMOUS DOCTOR AT THE !USCHWITZ DEATH CAMP WITH A PERMIT TO TRAVEL THROUGH 3WITZERLAND IN )N TWO OFlCIAL COMMISSIONS SET UP TO LOOK INTO THE WHOLE AFFAIR ISSUED REPORTS 4HE 6OLCKER #OMMISSION WHICH EXAMINED 3WISS BANK ACCOUNTS FROM THE .AZI ERA FOUND ALMOST ACCOUNTS THAT HAD BEEN OPENED BETWEEN AND AND IN ADDITION TO THE THOUSANDS OF NAMES ALREADY DECLARED ADVISED THE BANKS TO PUBLISH A FURTHER NAMES OF ACCOUNT HOLDERS SUSPECTED TO HAVE BEEN VICTIMS OF THE .AZIS )T ESTIMATED THAT AT CURRENT PRICES THESE ACCOUNTS TOTALLED BETWEEN MILLION AND MILLION 4HE REPORT OF THE "ERGIER #OMMISSION SET UP TO INVESTIGATE 3WITZERLANDS WARTIME TREAT MENT OF REFUGEES MERELY CONlRMED WHAT MANY ALREADY KNEW THAT 3WITZERLAND HAD DELIBERATELY BLOCKED THE ENTRY OF REFUGEES CONDEMNING *EWS AND OTHERS TO CERTAIN DEATH AT THE HANDS OF THE .AZIS )T IDENTIlED A STRAIN OF hCULTURAL SOCIAL AND POLITICALv ANTI 3EMITISM THAT RAN THROUGH THE COUNTRY AT THE TIME 4HE REPORT PROMPTED 3WISS PRESIDENT 2UTH $REIFUSS n THE ONLY *EWISH WOMAN TO HAVE SERVED IN THE POST n TO REITERATE THE GOVERNMENTS OFlCIAL APOLOGY OF 4HE COMMISSIONS lNAL REPORT IN STATED EXPLICITLY THAT hTHE ;3WISS= REFUGEE POLICY CONTRIBUTED TOx THE (OLOCAUSTv
4HEªENDªOFªh3ONDERFALLª3CHWEIZv 4HE WHOLE SORRY SAGA OF THE S STRUCK DEEP AT THE HEART OF 3WISS SELF CONFIDENCE 3TATEMENTS LIKE THOSE ISSUED BY THE "ERGIER #OMMISSION THAT h3WITZERLAND DECLINED TO HELP PEOPLE IN MORTAL DANGERv RAN COUNTER TO ALL THE NOTIONS OF ETHICAL BEHAVIOUR THAT POSTWAR 3WISS GENERATIONS LEARNED FROM THEIR PARENTS FROM EACH OTHER AND FROM THEIR HISTORY BOOKS &OR SOME IT HAS BEEN ALMOST TOO MUCH TO BEAR THE ANGER AND FRUSTRATION THAT HAS BEEN STIRRED UP IN THE PROUDLY NATIONALISTIC WORKING PEOPLE OF THE INNER CANTONS OF THE COUNTRY IN PARTICULAR HAS COINCIDED WITH THE RISE OF THE RIGHT WING DEMAGOGUE #HRISTOPH "LOCHER WHO HAS CHANNELLED IT INTO A COHERENT EXTREMIST POLITICAL STRATEGY DIRECTED AGAINST FOREIGNERS OF ALL KINDS EMBODIED n IN HIS PHILOSOPHY n IN THE %5 THE 5. AND THE MANY ASYLUM SEEKERS AND GUEST WORKERS RESIDENT IN 3WITZERLAND 4HE .AZI GOLD BROUHAHA DIED DOWN AFTER BUT A SERIES OF CRISES FOLLOWED HAMMERING AWAY AT 3WISS SELF CONlDENCE 4HE MOST SERIOUS ERUPTED IN WHEN THE NATIONAL AIRLINE 3WISSAIR n HAVING SQUANDERED MILLIONS ON AN ILL ADVISED POLICY OF ACQUISITIONS OF FAILING %UROPEAN CARRIERS AFTER THE REJECTION OF %5 MEMBERSHIP IN HAD DENIED IT EQUAL COMPETITION RIGHTS UNDER %5 LAW n DEFAULTED ON ITS LOANS AND WAS DECLARED BANKRUPT 4HE SIGHT OF 3WISS TRAVELLERS MAROONED AT FOREIGN AIRPORTS AND THE mAG HUMILIATED IN PUBLIC NOT TO MENTION THE ECONOMIC FAILURE OF A CORE INSTITUTION FELT TO MANY 3WISS LIKE A NATIONAL DISASTER &OR SIX MONTHS BANKERS AND INDUSTRIALISTS WORKED ON A RESCUE PACKAGE AND IN THE NEW NATIONAL CARRIER 3WISS APPEARED .ONETHELESS ANOTHER 3WISS ICON AND KEY MARKER OF 3WISS RELIABILITY HAD BEEN SHOWN TO BE FALLIBLE )N PEOPLE WERE KILLED WHILE CANYONING NEAR )NTERLAKEN AND ELEVEN PEOPLE DIED IN A lRE IN THE 3T 'OTTHARD ROAD TUNNEL FURTHER UNDERMINING FAITH IN 3WISS SAFETY STANDARDS THAT WERE PREVIOUSLY THOUGHT TO BE UNIMPEACHABLE 4HIS DEVASTATING COMBINATION OF SCANDAL AND NATIONAL HUMILIATION EFFECTIVELY PUNCTURED IN lVE SHORT YEARS THE SELF ASSURANCE n AND SOME SAID SMUGNESS
n THAT HAD SHAPED 3WISS NATIONAL CONSCIOUSNESS OVER THE PREVIOUS lVE DECADES #OMMENTING ON THE COUNTRYS WARTIME ROLE THE 'ENEVA NEWSPAPER ,E 4EMPS lNALLY SPOKE A PAINFUL TRUTH h4HE 3WISS WERE NO BETTER OR WORSE THAN ANYONE ELSEv )T WAS CLEAR THAT THE IDEA OF 3ONDERFALL 3CHWEIZ 3WITZERLAND AS A h3PECIAL #ASEv WAS DEAD
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!LTHOUGH THE 3ONDERFALL NOTION PERSISTS IN THE UGLY SHAPE OF #HRISTOPH "LOCHER AND THE 360 MODERN 3WITZERLAND HAS GAINED A NEW REJUVENATING HUMILITY 4HIS HAS BEEN MOST TANGIBLY EXPRESSED IN THE VOTE IN TO lNALLY APPLY FOR MEMBERSHIP OF THE 5NITED .ATIONS THE COUNTRY WAS ACCEPTED AS THE 5.S TH MEMBER STATE THE SAME YEAR 4HE YES VOTE WAS HAILED AS A SIGN OF AN END TO 3WISS ISOLATION THE GOVERNMENT STILL STRUGGLES WITH CONTINUING REJECTION OF %UROPEAN 5NION MEMBERSHIP IN REFERENDA BUT BROUGHT INTO FORCE IN SEVEN BILATERAL ACCORDS BETWEEN 3WITZERLAND AND THE %5 ON SUCH MATTERS AS TRADE AND FREE MOVEMENT 0ROGRESSIVE LIBERALIZATION IN SOME AREAS WILL BE COMPLETE BY WHETHER THE 3WISS PEOPLE EVER VOTE FOR %5 MEMBERSHIP OR NOT !SYLUM AND IMMIGRATION REMAINS A HOT TOPIC FUEL TO THE REACTIONARY lRE #ONNECTED WITH THIS AND TIED UP IN LINGERING NOTIONS OF THE CORE VALUES OF 3WISSNESS BEING ERODED BY FOREIGN INmUENCE IS AN INEXORABLE RISE IN THE USE OF %NGLISH THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY IN EDUCATION BUSINESS AND POPULAR CULTURE %NGLISH IS NOW THE lRST FOREIGN LANGUAGE STUDIED IN PRIMARY SCHOOLS IN :àRICH AND OTHER CANTONS SUPPLANTING &RENCH MUCH TO THE CHAGRIN OF THOSE TRYING TO BUILD CULTURAL BRIDGES BETWEEN THE FOUR LANGUAGE COMMUNITIES IT IS INCREASINGLY SEEN AS 3WITZERLANDS LINGUA FRANCA 7ITH THE DEMISE OF THE 3ONDERFALL IMAGE 3WITZERLAND CONTINUES TO SEARCH FOR A CONTEMPORARY IDENTITY /N THE ONE HAND 3WISS ARCHITECTURE AND DESIGN LEAD THE WORLD AND A KEEN AWARENESS OF ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION SHOWS ITSELF MOST DRAMATICALLY IN TWO NEW TRANS !LPINE RAIL TUNNELS n THE KM ,ÚTSCHBERG "ASE 4UNNEL AND KM 'OTTHARD "ASE 4UNNEL "OTH ARE PART OF A CONCERTED MULTIBIL LION EURO EFFORT TO CONSERVE THE !LPINE ENVIRONMENT AND SHIFT PAN %UROPEAN FREIGHT OFF THE ROADS /N THE OTHER HAND 3WITZERLAND REMAINS A CONSERVATIVE TRADITIONALIST AND n PERHAPS MOST SURPRISINGLY n DEEPLY MILITARISTIC SOCIETY IT IS NOW THE ONLY %UROPEAN COUNTRY TO HAVE UNIVERSAL MALE CONSCRIPTION 4HE NEW CENTURY HAS SEEN THE BREAKDOWN OF THE OLD CONSENSUS POLITICS AND THE ABANDONMENT OF THE COSY hMAGIC FORMULAv IN FAVOUR OF AN UNUSUALLY DIVI SIVE OPPOSITIONAL DYNAMIC 3WITZERLAND HAS GAINED NEW SELF KNOWLEDGE AFTER THE CRISES OF THE S BUT IT HAS ALSO LURCHED TO THE RIGHT 4HE OLD GUARD ARE DIGGING IN
#ONTEMPORARY©ARCHITECTURE
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ITH ITS INTRINSIC FAITH IN MODERNITY AND TRADITIONAL SUPPORT FOR INNO VATION 3WITZERLAND HAS DEVELOPED A CULTURAL CLIMATE THAT HAS FOSTERED SOME OF THE MOST IMPORTANT CONTEMPORARY ARCHITECTS OF THE LAST TWENTY YEARS 0RIVATE AND STATE SPONSORSHIP COUPLED WITH AN UNDER STANDING OF THE VALUE OF QUALITY DESIGN HAS LED THE COUNTRY TO BECOME A MODEL FOR CONTEMPORARY ARCHITECTURE WHERE HOME GROWN TALENT CONSTRUCTS ALONGSIDE INTERNATIONAL STARS 0RIVATE COMMISSIONS AND PUBLIC COMPETITIONS ALIKE GENERATE A DYNAMIC ENVIRONMENT FOR BOTH NEW AND ESTABLISHED ARCHITECTS (AVING LARGELY ESCAPED THE UPHEAVALS ASSOCIATED WITH THE WORLD WARS OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY 3WISS CULTURE HAS HAD THE FREEDOM TO GROW ORGANICALLY AVOID ING MANY OF THE RUPTURES AND TRAUMAS SUFFERED BY ITS NEIGHBOURS 4HE -ODERN MOVEMENT OF THE S WITH ITS PHILOSOPHY OF COST EFFECTIVE ARCHITECTURE COUPLED WITH A CERTAIN PRIDE IN THE USE OF RATIONAL TECHNIQUES WAS THE BASIC MODEL FOR CONSTRUCTION ACROSS THE COUNTRY FOR MORE THAN THREE DECADES
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)NTERNATIONAL RECOGNITION FOR 3WISS ARCHITECTURE CAME WITH THE 4ICINO 3CHOOL )N THE S RENEWED ECONOMIC PROSPERITY SWEPT ACROSS THE COUNTRY THIS BOOM WAS MANIFESTED IN THE 4ICINO REGION BY A MUSHROOMING OF SMALL FACTORIES AND PRIVATE HOUSES WITH NO BUILDING OR URBAN PLANNING RESTRICTIONS 4HE 4ICINO 3CHOOL EMERGED OUT OF THIS UNCONTROLLED SITUATION WITH A SENSE OF OPTIMISM IN THE CAPA BILITY OF ARCHITECTURE TO PROVIDE A SOLUTION TO THE CHAOS AND RUIN OF THE LANDSCAPE 4HE CENTRAL INmUENCES ON THE MOVEMENT WERE THE THEORETICAL ARGUMENTS THAT WERE DEVELOPING ACROSS THE BORDER IN )TALY FOCUSED AROUND THE -ILANESE ARCHI TECT AND CRITIC !LDO 2OSSI 2OSSI HELD THAT MODERN ARCHITECTURE SHOULD ESSEN TIALLY BE A SOCIAL DISCIPLINE WHERE INDIVIDUALITY IS REPLACED BY THE USE OF A FEW IDENTIlABLE AND UNCHANGEABLE COMPONENTS ELEMENTARY GEOMETRICAL VOLUMES WITH THE CAPACITY TO BECOME MONUMENTS AND SO GIVE SENSE AND ORDER TO THE SURROUNDING TERRITORY 4HE IDEALS OF THE 4ICINO 3CHOOL FOUND PROBABLY THEIR CLEAREST EXPRESSION IN THE WORK OF ,UIGI 3NOZZI 3NOZZI HAS BEEN RESPONSIBLE FOR CONSTRUCTION IN THE VILLAGE OF -ONTE #ARASSO JUST OUTSIDE "ELLINZONA SINCE ATTEMPTING TO BREAK DOWN ANY DIFFERENCES BETWEEN URBAN PLANNING AND ARCHITECTURE (IS AIM HAS BEEN TO GIVE THE VILLAGE A DISTINCTIVE IDENTITY SINCE IT WAS IN DANGER OF BECOMING MERELY A DORMITORY TOWN "Y REFURBISHING EXISTING STRUCTURES DESIGN ING PUBLIC SPACES AND CONSTRUCTING NEW BUILDINGS WITH A MONUMENTAL CAPACITY HE HAS CREATED FOCAL POINTS FOR THE SPATIAL ORGANIZATION OF THE VILLAGE !NOTHER HIGH PROlLE EXAMPLE OF 4ICINO 3CHOOL ARCHITECTURE THAT DEALS WITH THE CENTRAL THEMES OF IDENTITY MEMORY AND MONUMENTALITY IN A GROUND BREAKING WAY IS THE WORK OF !URELIO 'ALFETTI AT #ASTELGRANDE IN "ELLINZONA n (IS RESTORATION OF THIS HISTORIC FORTIlCATION WAS BEGUN BY PULLING DOWN THE hNON ORIGINALv INTERVENTIONS INCLUDING THE SURROUNDING VEGETATION AND INSERTING MODERN ELEMENTS INTO THE ANCIENT FABRIC 4HE PROJECT CREATED A NEW REFERENCE FOR THE TREATMENT OF HISTORICAL MONUMENTS AND SENSITIVE HERITAGE SITES ACROSS THE COUNTRY 4HE MOST FAMOUS ARCHITECT FROM THE 4ICINO 3CHOOL AT AN INTERNATIONAL LEVEL IS -ARIO "OTTA (IS RENOWN IS NOW LINKED WITH LARGE PROJECTS ALL OVER THE WORLD MOST NOTABLY THE 3AN &RANCISCO -USEUM OF -ODERN !RT n "UT ALTHOUGH HIS BUILDINGS ARE UBIQUITOUS IN 3WITZERLAND ITS IN HIS SMALLER WORKS THAT
HE BEST REVEALS A SENSITIVE AND EVOCATIVE RELATIONSHIP WITH THE ENVIRONMENT 4HIS IS BEST ILLUSTRATED IN THE CHURCH OF 3AN 'IOVANNI "ATTISTA AT -OGNO n AND THE CHAPEL OF 3ANTA -ARIA DEGLI !NGELI AT !LPE &OPPA ON -ONTE 4AMARO n 4HE CREATION OF THE #ENTRE $àRRENMATT NEAR .EUCHÊTEL n WITH A SUBTERRANEAN INTERVENTION THAT DOESNT COMPROMISE THE INTEGRITY OF THE WRITERS OLD HOUSE ILLUSTRATES HIS ABILITY TO WORK IN PARTICULARLY DELICATE SITUATIONS
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3INCE THE EARLY S THE ATTENTION OF INTERNATIONAL CRITICS HAS SHIFTED FROM THE 4ICINO 3CHOOL TO THE ARCHITECTURE OF 'ERMAN 3WITZERLAND ! FRESH GENERA TION OF ARCHITECTS HAVE CREATED A NEW LANGUAGE AND AN APPROACH TO ARCHITECTURE THAT IS RESULTING IN ELEGANT EMBLEMATIC BUILDINGS ACROSS THE WORLD 2ATHER THAN CONCENTRATING ON THE CONCEPT OF ARCHITECTURE AS A SYMBOLIC ACT n SO CENTRAL TO THE THEORY OF THE 4ICINO 3CHOOL n THEY FOCUS ON ARCHITECTURE AS A PURELY CONSTRUCTIVE ACT 4HE MOST IMPORTANT PRACTITIONERS ARE THREE STUDIOS THAT HAVE BECOME INTERNA TIONALLY RENOWNED IN RECENT YEARS (ERZOG DE -EURON IS PERHAPS THE BEST KNOWN OFlCE HAVING WORKED ACROSS %UROPE AND IN THE 53 AS WELL AS ON NUMER OUS HIGH QUALITY PROJECTS AT HOME 4HE STUDIOS ARCHITECTURE IS CHARACTERIZED BY A SOPHISTICATED INTELLECTUALIZATION OF ARCHITECTURAL PROBLEMS THAT ARE OFTEN SOLVED THROUGH COLLABORATION WITH CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS 0ETER :UMTHOR HAS ENTERED THE PUBLIC CONSCIOUSNESS IN A VERY DIFFERENT WAY ! CABINET MAKER BY TRADE HIS EXQUISITE INTERVENTIONS IN OFTEN RURAL AND CULTURALLY SENSITIVE COMMUNITIES HAVE WON HIM A REPUTATION FOR AN UNPARALLELED LEVEL OF CRAFTSMANSHIP AND ATTENTION TO DETAIL 4HE YOUNGER DUO OF !NNETTE 'IGON AND -IKE 'UYER HAVE PRODUCED A CLUTCH OF BUILDINGS THAT EMBODY THE SELF CONlDENT SIMPLICITY ASSOCIATED WITH CONTEMPORARY 3WISS ARCHITECTURE /NE OF THE MAIN FOCUSES OF THIS 3WISS 'ERMAN SCHOOL IS THE USE OF EVERYDAY MATERIALS WHICH WERE PREVIOUSLY THOUGHT OF AS BANAL OR AT LEAST NOT SUITABLE FOR RElNED OR NOTEWORTHY ARCHITECTURE (ERZOG DE -EURONS 2ICOLA 3TORAGE "UILDING n IN ,AUFEN SOUTH OF "ASEL PERFECTLY ILLUSTRATES THIS ATTITUDE PANELS OF lBRE CEMENT SHEETING WERE CHOSEN FOR THE FACADE AND STACKED VERTI CALLY TO CREATE A SOPHISTICATED FREE INTERPRETATION OF THE PILES OF FRESHLY SAWN WOODEN BOARDS LYING OUTSIDE THE SAWMILLS IN THE SURROUNDING VALLEY 4O CLAD THE FACADE OF THE EXTENSION TO THE /SKAR 2EINHART GALLERY h!M 2ÚMERHOLZv IN 7INTERTHUR n 'IGON 'UYER USED LARGE PANELS OF PREFABRICATED CONCRETE MIXED WITH *URA LIMESTONE AND COPPER POWDER TO OBTAIN A MATERIAL THAT WILL GRADUALLY DEVELOP A GREEN PATINA AND SLOWLY AGE IN KEEPING WITH THE REST OF THE BUILDINGS 4HE CENTRAL QUESTION IS NOT JUST WHAT MATERIAL TO USE BUT HOW TO USE IT IN A WAY THAT IS FREE OF CONVENTIONS AND PRECONCEPTIONS )N 4HERME 6ALS n 0ETER :UMTHOR EMPLOYS TRADITIONAL STONE IN AN ELEGANTLY DETAILED MANNER TO lNISH BOTH THE INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR CREATING A SUBLIME BUILDING OF CLOSED SPACES AND SENSUAL LIGHTING PROTECTED FROM THE HARSH SURROUNDING LANDSCAPE 4HE PIVOTAL POINT IN THIS CASE IS THE VERY 3WISS ATTITUDE OF AN OBSESSIVE ATTENTION TO DETAIL AND CRAFTSMANSHIP ARCHITECTURE AS THE ART OF CONSTRUCTING WELL :UMTHOR IS ALSO THE AUTHOR OF THE CHAPEL OF 3AN "ENEDETG IN 3OMVITG NEAR $ISENTIS -USTÏR n A REPLACEMENT FOR A HILLSIDE CHURCH THAT HAD BEEN DESTROYED BY AN AVALANCHE 4HE TEXTURE OF TRADITIONAL WOODEN CLADDING CONTRASTS WITH THE ABSTRACT SCULPTURAL SHAPE OF THE DECEPTIVELY SIMPLE GEOMETRICAL BUILDING 4HE CHAPEL IS WRAPPED IN STRIPS OF LARCH WHICH WEATHER AND GRADUALLY CHANGE COLOUR OVER TIME ALTERING THE PERCEPTION OF THE VOLUME
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4HIS CONCENTRATION ON SHAPE IN CONTEMPORARY 3WISS 'ERMAN ARCHITECTURE HAS BEEN DElNED AS THE CREATION OF h&ORCEFUL &ORMSv 4HE BUILDINGS ARE CONCEIVED AS INTENSE GEOMETRIC VOLUMES WITH A SIMPLICITY THAT EXALTS THEIR SHAPE MATERIAL TEXTURE AND COLOUR n AN ATTITUDE TOWARDS DESIGN THAT IS CLEARLY HEAVILY INDEBTED TO THE ARTISTIC MOVEMENTS OF #ONCRETE !RT !BSTRACTISM AND -INIMALISM 'IGON 'UYERS -USEUM ,INER IN !PPENZELL n IS A SAW TOOTH ROOFED VOLUME CLAD UNIFORMLY WITH SANDBLASTED SHEETS OF STAINLESS STEEL 4HE SOPHISTICATED RESULT IS BOTH AN EVERYDAY INDUSTRIAL LOOKING BUILDING AND AN ENIGMATIC STRUCTURE DOMINATING THIS SMALL VILLAGE /NE OF THE NUMEROUS PROJECTS COMMISSIONED BY 3WISS &EDERAL 2AILWAYS IS (ERZOG DE -EURONS SIGNAL BOX ON THE EDGE OF THE TRAIN TRACKS AT "ASEL 3"" STATION n ! CONCRETE BOX WRAPPED WITH COPPER BANDS TO FORM A &ARADAY CAGE THIS ABSTRACT OBJECT STANDS LACONICALLY DETACHED AMONG THE UNRULY OVERHEAD CABLES RAILWAY TRACKS AND TRAIN SHEDS )T IS NOT SIMPLY A BUILDING BUT A PRESENCE IN THE URBAN LANDSCAPE #RITICS HAVE DESCRIBED THESE DESIGNS AS h3WISSBOX ARCHITECTUREv MALIGNING THE EMPHASIS PUT ON THE ENVELOPE OF THE BUILDING AND THE LACK OF INTEREST IN THE CREATION OF INTERNAL SPACE 4HERE ARE UNDENIABLY NUMEROUS PROJECTS WHERE THE DESIGN FOCUS IS VERY lRMLY ON THE TREATMENT OF THE FACADE BUT MORE OFTEN THAN NOT THIS IS A STRENGTH MORE THAN A DETRACTION )N (ERZOG DE -EURONS 2ICOLA PRODUCTION AND STORAGE BUILDING IN -ULHOUSE n JUST NORTH OF "ASEL IN &RANCE THE DESIGN ON THE EXTERIOR TRANSFORMS A CONVENTIONAL WAREHOUSE INTO A REPRESENTATIVE FOCUS )N THEIR UNIVERSITY LIBRARY IN %BERSWALDE 'ERMANY n THE UNASSUMING BULK OF AN ANONYMOUS BUILDING IS DElNED BY THE HISTORI CAL AND ARTISTIC PHOTOGRAPHS PRINTED ON THE PANELS OF THE FACADE )N BOTH THESE CASES BY CHOOSING TO SCREEN PRINT ON SUCH EVERYDAY MATERIALS AS POLYCARBONATE OR PREFABRICATED CONCRETE PANELS THE ARCHITECTS HAVE SHIFTED ATTENTION FROM THE CONVENTIONAL INTERIOR SPACES AND TRANSFORMED RELATIVELY MODEST CONSTRUCTION OPPORTUNITIES INTO TRULY EMBLEMATIC BUILDINGS
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ROM VALLEY mOOR TO MOUNTAIN SUMMIT 3WITZERLAND ENJOYS A WIDE RANGE OF WILDLIFE AND BOTANICAL HABITATS 4HANKS TO THE HUGE DIFFERENCE IN ALTITUDE CLIMATE AND VEGETATION ZONES THERES NEARLY ALWAYS SOMETHING OF INTEREST TO SEE WHETHER YOURE A DEDICATED NATURALIST EXPERT BOTANIST OR JUST A VISITOR WITH AN INTEREST IN THE OVERALL MOUNTAIN ENVIRONMENT
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4HE RED DEER #ERVUS ELAPHUS HAD DISAPPEARED FROM MUCH OF THE COUNTRY BEFORE THE .ATIONAL 0ARK WAS ESTABLISHED IN BUT NATURAL MIGRATION FROM NEIGHBOURING REGIONS OF !USTRIA SAW A STEADY REPOPULATION IN THE FORESTED VALLEYS OF 'RAUBàNDEN 4HE ADULT MALE DOMINATES A HAREM OF SEVERAL HINDS AND VIGOROUSLY DEFENDS THEM AGAINST ALL CHALLENGERS &AWNS ARE BORN IN -AY OR *UNE AND ARE SUCKLED FOR THREE OR FOUR MONTHS REMAINING WITHIN EASY REACH OF FOREST SHELTER )N SUMMER THE ADULT COAT IS REDDISH BROWN TURNING GREY BROWN IN WINTER 4HE MUCH SMALLER ROE DEER #APREOLUS CAPREOLUS HAS SIMILAR COLOUR ING IS TIMID BUT ALSO VERY INQUISITIVE AND CAN BE FOUND ROAMING AROUND THE UPPER TIMBER LINE 4HE BEST TIME TO OBSERVE ROE DEER IS IN THE EARLY MORNING OR TOWARDS DUSK WHEN THEY STRAY FROM TREE COVER TO OPEN MEADOWS AND FAVOURED DRINKING POOLS 4HE ADULT MALE SPROUTS SLENDER HORNS WHICH ARE SHED DURING THE AUTUMN AT THE END OF THE RUT 4HE RED SQUIRREL 3CIURUS VULGARIS LIKE ITS !MERICAN GREY COUSIN IN %NGLAND FAVOURS A WOODLAND HABITAT AND IS FAIRLY COMMON THROUGHOUT 3WITZERLAND $ESPITE THE NAME ITS COAT IS DARK BROWN OR ALMOST BLACK AND THE FEMALE PRODUCES UP TO SEVEN YOUNG BORN NAKED AND BLIND IN A SPHERICAL DREY 4HE %UROPEAN LYNX ,YNX LYNX WAS REINTRODUCED INTO THE 3WISS !LPS IN 7EIGHING nKG IT LIVES IN THE FORESTS WHERE IT PREYS ON BIRDS AND MAMMALS UP TO THE SIZE OF A ROE DEER WHICH IT KILLS WITH A BITE THROUGH THE NECK #ASUAL SIGHTINGS ARE EXTREMELY RARE 4HE WILDCAT &ELIS SILVESTRIS IS ANOTHER ELUSIVE FOREST ANIMAL ,ARGER THAN THE DOMESTIC CAT IT NEVERTHELESS HAS A PURR NOT UNLIKE THAT OF AN ORDINARY MOGGIE BUT A MIAOW THAT IS DEEPER AND MORE POWERFUL ! FEW SPECIMENS WERE RELEASED INTO THE WILD NEAR )NTERLAKEN AND OTHERS IN THE *URA
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)N THE DISTANT PAST THE 3WISS !LPS WERE INHABITED BY SUCH CREATURES AS THE CAVE BEAR CAVE LION AND PANTHER NOT MORE THAN A FEW HUNDRED YEARS AGO THE MOST PROLIlC ANIMALS FOUND IN THE !LPINE VALLEYS INCLUDED THE LYNX AND WILDCAT AND THE WOLF 0ERIODS OF GLACIATION DROVE THE lRST GROUP FROM THE MOUNTAINS WHILE HUNTERS REDUCED THE NUMBERS OF THE LATTER THE LAST WOLF IN 3WITZERLAND WAS THOUGHT TO HAVE BEEN SHOT IN BUT A HANDFUL OF RECENT SUSPECTED SIGHT INGS OF WOLVES IN THE 6ALAIS ARE UNDER INVESTIGATION BY NATURALISTS (UNTING IS STILL POPULAR TODAY BUT IS GENERALLY UNDER STRICT CONTROLS 4HE 0ARC .AZIUNAL 3VIZZER IN THE ,OWER %NGADINE 3WISS .ATIONAL 0ARK IS A HAVEN FOR NUMEROUS RESIDENT AND MIGRATORY ANIMALS AND IS PERHAPS THE COUNTRYS MOST REWARDING LOCATION FOR THE CASUAL WILDLIFE OBSERVER SINCE SOMETHING LIKE HALF OF THE SEVENTY SPECIES OF MAMMALS FOUND IN 3WITZERLAND CAN BE SEEN THERE !LPINE FAUNA IS NOTED FOR ITS EXTREME SHYNESS WHICH IS WHY OBSERVATION CAN BE DIFlCULT BUT MANY ANIMALS THAT INHABIT THE MORE REMOTE REGIONS OF THE HIGH !LPS ALSO DESCEND TO LOWER ALTITUDES 4HE FOLLOWING SURVEY THOUGH BY NO MEANS COMPREHENSIVE PICKS OUT THE HIGHLIGHTS
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BUT IT IS STILL BY NO MEANS COMMON 4HE !LPINE HARE ,EPUS TIMIDUS HAS A WIDE DISTRIBUTION IN NORTHERN %UROPE AND IS FOUND IN OPEN COUNTRY BOTH BELOW AND ABOVE THE TREE LINE TO ABOUT M )N WINTER ITS COAT IS WHITE IN SUMMER BROWN WITH WHITE PATCHES 4HANKS TO THE PRODUCTION OF TWO AND SOMETIMES THREE LITTERS A YEAR THE HARE MANAGES TO MAINTAIN ITS NUMBERS AGAINST THE RAVAGES OF A VARIETY OF CARNIVORES 4HROUGHOUT THE !LPS THE SHRILL HIGH PITCHED ALARM WHISTLE OF THE MARMOT -ARMOTA MARMOTA n OR -URMELTIER IN 'ERMAN WILL BE HEARD FROM LATE SPRING UNTIL EARLY AUTUMN /NE OF THE MOST WIDESPREAD OF ALL !LPINE RODENTS IT IS EVER WARY OF SUCH PREDATORS AS THE FOX AND EAGLE FOR WHICH IT FORMS THE CHIEF FOOD SOURCE ,IVING IN BURROWS MOSTLY ABOVE THE TREE LINE THE MARMOT HIBERNATES IN A hNESTv OF DRIED GRASSES FOR AS MANY AS SEVEN MONTHS A YEAR IN THE UPPER REGIONS AROUND M OR lVE TO SIX MONTHS AT LOWER ALTITUDES !T THE END OF HIBERNATION PAIRING OCCURS ALMOST AT ONCE AND AFTER A DAY GESTATION PERIOD THE YOUNG ARE BORN NAKED AND WITH EYES CLOSED 4HE YOUNG DO NOT EMERGE FROM THEIR BURROWS MUCH BEFORE THE END OF *ULY BY WHICH TIME THEYVE GROWN A COVERING OF FUR AND ARE ABLE TO ATTACK THE COARSE MEADOW GRASSES WITH THEIR RAZOR LIKE TEETH !N ADULT GROWS TO A LENGTH OF nCM WITH A nCM TAIL AND BY 3EPTEMBER WEIGHS AROUND nKG ALTHOUGH SOME MALES CAN WEIGH UP TO KG 4HEY LIVE TO APPROXIMATELY TEN YEARS ALTHOUGH SOME HAVE BEEN KNOWN TO REACH TWENTY 4HE CHAMOIS 2UPICAPRA RUPICAPRA n OR 'EMSE IN 'ERMAN IS FOUND NOT ONLY IN THE !LPINE REGIONS BUT ALSO IN THE LOWER *URA MOUNTAINS OF THE WEST AND NORTHWEST OF 3WITZERLAND !LTHOUGH SOUGHT BY HUNTERS IN THE AUTUMN IN SELECT AREAS IT HAS ENJOYED PROTECTED STATUS SINCE THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY 4HE %NGADINE IS THOUGHT TO HAVE ONE OF %UROPES LARGEST POPULATIONS OF THIS HANDSOME ANTELOPE LIKE RUMINANT WITH SHORT HOOKED HORNS AND A RUSSET COAT SOMETIMES LIGHTENING TO FAWN GREY IN SUMMER .OTED FOR ITS AGILITY IT IS ALSO PRONE TO DISEASE ESPE CIALLY THE NOTORIOUS CHAMOIS BLINDNESS THAT OCCASIONALLY DEVASTATES COMPLETE HERDS 4HE RUT lNISHES IN .OVEMBER AND THE YOUNG ARE BORN BETWEEN MID -AY AND MID *UNE AFTER A GESTATION OF n DAYS ! FULLY GROWN CHAMOIS REACHES nM IN LENGTH AND WEIGHS UP TO KG MALE OR nKG FEMALE ,ONGEVITY IS ABOUT TWENTY YEARS 4HEY CAN BE SEEN EITHER SINGLY OR IN HERDS THROUGHOUT THE 3WISS !LPS n BUT RARELY AT CLOSE QUARTERS 7HILE THE CHAMOIS HAS SHORT BUT GRACEFUL HORNS THE STOCKIER MALE IBEX #APRA IBEX n OR 3TEINBOCK IN 'ERMAN HAS LARGE KNOBBLY SCIMITAR SHAPED HORNS WHICH ARE USED AS WEAPONS DURING THE BATTLES FOR DOMINANCE THAT ACCOMPANY THE AUTUMN RUT $EFEATED MALES MUST THEN WAIT THEIR TURN FOR SEXUAL MATURITY UNTIL THEY ARE ABLE TO DEFEND A HAREM OF THEIR OWN !LTHOUGH THE CHAMOIS RANGES HIGH IN THE MOUNTAINS THE IBEX ZONE IS EVEN HIGHER SOME HAVE BEEN SIGHTED AT OVER M &OR THE GREATER PART OF THE YEAR IT LIVES ABOVE THE TREE LINE OFTEN ROAMING TO THE HIGH SNOWS IN SUMMER BUT OCCASIONALLY DESCENDING TO THE FORESTS IN WINTER 7EIGHING UP TO KG THE IBEX NEGOTIATES NARROW ROCK LEDGES WITH CONlDENCE AND PRECISION DESPITE ITS STOCKY BODY AND COMPARATIVELY SHORT LEGS AND APPARENTLY DISPLAYS GREAT CARE WHEN CROSSING SLOPES THREATENED BY AVALANCHE ! SIZEABLE HERD ROAMS THE UPPER SLOPES OF 0IZ !LBRIS NEAR 0ONTRESINA IN 6AL "ERNINA ANOTHER CAN BE SEEN HIGH ABOVE 6AL DE "AGNES IN THE 6ALAIS OFTEN GRAZING CLOSE TO THE 3ENTIER DE #HAMOIS HIKING TRAIL
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4HE RANGE OF PLANTS FOUND IN 3WITZERLAND IS ENORMOUS AS ONE MIGHT EXPECT IN A COUNTRY WHOSE SOIL HABITAT CLIMATE AND ALTITUDE VARIES FROM REGION TO REGION AND IN SOME CASES FROM ONE VALLEY TO THE NEXT )GNEOUS ROCKS MAY DOMINATE IN ONE DISTRICT WITH MORE PLANT FRIENDLY LIMESTONE IN ANOTHER (ABITATS VARY FROM DAMP GRASSLAND TO SEMI ARCTIC ROCKFACE FROM DESERT LIKE SCREE TO SHADY WOODLAND FROM GLACIAL MORAINE TO THE MARSHY FRINGE OF A MOUNTAIN LAKE FROM A SUNNY CLIFF OR STRETCH OF LIMESTONE PAVEMENT TO AN ACID VALLEY BOG %ACH HAS ITS OWN SPECIlC mORA -OUNTAINS CREATE THEIR OWN MICROCLIMATE ONE SIDE MAY BE DAMP THE OTHER PROTECTED IN A RAIN SHADOW ! SOUTH FACING HILLSIDE WILL BE DIFFERENT FROM THE OPPOSITE NORTH FACING SLOPE AND ON A MOUNTAINSIDE THE SEASONS CHANGE NOT BY THE CALENDAR BUT BY ALTITUDE !LL THESE FACTORS HAVE AN EFFECT ON THE PLANT LIFE AS DO GRAZING AND CULTIVATION OF THE SOIL )N THE LOWER VALLEYS SOLDANELLAS PRIMULAS CROCUS ANEMONES AND OTHERS COME INTO mOWER EARLY IN THE YEAR AS THE SNOW MELTS AND HAVING BLOOMED THEY
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CAN ONLY BE DESCRIBED AS A CORK BEING DRAWN FROM A BOTTLE 4HE CAPERCAILLIE IS SCARCE ENOUGH IN THE !LPS TO CREATE A THRILL OF EXCITEMENT WHEN HEARD OR SEEN n ITS DARK SHAPE HAS EASY CAMOUmAGE IN A BEECH LARCH OR PINE WOOD WHERE IT CAN FEED ON ASSORTED BERRIES BUDS AND NEEDLES BUT WHERE IT CAN ALSO FALL PREY TO SUCH PREDATORS AS THE FOX AND MARTEN WHILE THE YOUNG ARE SOMETIMES TAKEN BY A GOSHAWK OR GOLDEN EAGLE 'AME BIRDS OF THE FOREST REGIONS ARE NOTORIOUSLY DIFlCULT TO OBSERVE EXCEPT WHEN ACCIDENTALLY mUSHED OUT OF COVER 4HE HAZEL HEN 4ETRASTES BONASIA BLACK GROUSE ,YRURUS TETRIX PTARMIGAN ,AGOPUS MUTUS AND ROCK PARTRIDGE !LECTORIS GRAECA ARE ALL FOUND IN THE .ATIONAL 0ARK AS IS THE LONG BILLED WOODCOCK 3COLOPAX RUSTICOLA IN MARSHY GROUND NEAR THE TREE LINE /THER WOODLAND BIRDS FOUND IN 3WITZERLAND INCLUDE A NUMBER OF OWLS THE EAGLE OWL TAWNY LONG EARED PYGMY AND SMALL GOLDEN EYED TENGMALMS OWL !EGOLIUS FUNEREUS WHICH TAKES OVER THE ABANDONED NESTS OF WOODPECKERS 4HERE ARE SEVERAL SPECIES OF WOODPECKER TOO NOTABLY THE GREEN GREAT SPOTTED BLACK AND RARE THREE TOED WOODPECKER 0ICOIDES TRIDACTYLUS ALL OF WHICH ARE FOUND AT SOME TIME OR OTHER IN THE FORESTS OF THE .ATIONAL 0ARK 4HERES NO SHORTAGE OF SONGBIRDS MOST OF WHICH ARE WIDELY DISTRIBUTED THROUGHOUT %UROPE BUT IT IS THE MOUNTAIN SPECIALISTS THAT ARE NOTABLE IN THE HIGH !LPINE REGIONS AND WHOSE PRESENCE ADDS AN EXTRA DIMENSION TO THE CLIMBERS DAY THE ALPINE ACCENTOR 0RUNELLA COLLARIS FOR EXAMPLE WHOSE NEST HAS BEEN DISCOVERED ABOVE M AND WHOSE SONG RESEMBLES THAT OF THE LARK AS DOES ITS MATING mIGHT !NOTHER IS THE BRIGHTLY COLOURED ROCK THRUSH -ONTICOLA SAXITILIS THAT RETURNS TO THE !LPS IN MID -AY AFTER WINTERING IN TROPICAL !FRICA 4HEN THERES THE ALPINE CHOUGH 0YRRHOCORAX GRACULUS WHOSE AERIAL ACROBATICS YELLOW BEAK AND STRIDENT CALL ARE FAMILIAR TO ALL WHO VISIT THE HIKERS HUTS IN THE HIGH MOUNTAINS WHERE THIS GREGARIOUS BIRD COMES AS A SCAVENGER AFTER LEFTOVER SCRAPS OF FOOD 4HE GOLDEN EAGLE !QUILA CHRYSAETUS BUILDS ITS EYRIE ON INACCESSIBLE ROCK LEDGES HIGH IN THE MOUNTAINS AND WITH NO SHORTAGE OF SITES TO CHOOSE FROM AND NO SHORTAGE OF PREY EITHER THERES A FAIR CHANCE OF SPOTTING ONE OF THESE GRACEFUL PREDATORS SAILING OVER THE HIGH PASTURES IN SEARCH OF FOOD 4HE GOLDEN EAGLE HAS A BROAD APPETITE ALTHOUGH ITS BASIC DIET IN THE SUMMER CONSISTS OF MARMOT IT WILL ALSO STRIKE GROUSE AND MOUNTAIN HARE AND MAY EVEN TRY TO TAKE THE YOUNG OF CHAMOIS AND RED DEER 3INCE IT MAKES SHORT WORK OF SICK AND WEAK ANIMALS ITS CONTRIBUTION TO THE MAINTENANCE OF STRONG HEALTHY SPECIES IS SIGNIlCANT
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WITHER AND ALL BUT DISAPPEAR WITH ONLY THEIR LEAVES REMAINING HIDDEN BENEATH THE NEW GRASS OF THE MEADOWLANDS "UT AS THE SEASON ADVANCES AND THE SNOW RECEDES SO THE SAME mOWERS APPEAR HIGHER UP THE HILLSIDE "Y MID *UNE OR *ULY ALONGSIDE MANY OTHER PLANTS THEY COLOUR THE hALPSv n THE UPPER PASTURES n BEFORE CATTLE ARE BROUGHT UP FOR SUMMER GRAZING "EFORE THE END OF *ULY MOST OF THE PASTURE mOWERS WILL HAVE GONE BUT IT IS THEN THAT THE SCREES MORAINE WALLS AND ROCKFACES DISPLAY THEIR OWN SPECIAL !LPINE mORA /F THE EARLY PASTURE AND MEADOWLAND mOWERS THE PASQUE mOWER COMES IN SEVERAL FORMS 0ULSATILLA VERNALIS OR THE SPRING PASQUE mOWER HAS ITS WHITE PETALS OFTEN mUSHED A PALE VIOLET ON THE OUTSIDE WHILE THE ALPINE PASQUE mOWER 0ULSATILLA ALPINA IS PROTECTED FROM THE COLD BY A COATING OF TINY HAIRS 4HE TINY ALPINE SNOWBELL 3OLDANELLA ALPINA ON THE OTHER HAND HAS NO APPARENT PROTEC TION EVEN THOUGH IT OFTEN PUSHES ITS WAY THROUGH THE MELTING SNOWlELDS )TS TASSLED PETALS VARY FROM VIOLET TO PINK BLUE DEPENDING ON HABITAT FOR IT MAY BE FOUND ON SITES AS DIVERSE AS SHALLOW POCKETS OF LIMESTONE AND DAMP PASTURES UP TO M 4HE LILY FAMILY IS ANOTHER PASTURE AND MEADOWLAND FAVOURITE THAT COMES IN MANY FORMS INCLUDING ASPHODEL CROCUS FRITILLARY AND SCILLA 4HE CLARET HEADED MARTAGON LILY ,ILIUM MARTAGON APPEARS IN SHADY WOODLAND GLADES OF THE *URA WHILE THE EXTRAVAGANT SHOWY ORANGE LILY ,ILIUM BULBIFERUM ADORNS GRASSY TERRACES ABOVE 5RNERBODEN )F THE LILY FAMILY HAS SPAWNED A VARIETY OF SPECIES THE GENTIAN IS EVEN MORE NUMEROUS AND IN 3WITZERLAND IS REPRESENTED BY SUCH EXTREMES AS THE TALL MULTI mOWERED GREAT YELLOW GENTIAN 'ENTIANA LUTEA WHOSE STARRY mOWERS BURST FROM AN UPRIGHT STEM TO THE TINY DELICATE BLUE FAVOURITE THE SPRING GENTIAN 'ENTIANA VERNA AND DEEP ROYAL BLUE n ALMOST NAVY n OF THE TRUMPET GENTIAN 'ENTIANA KOCHIANA THAT SOMETIMES APPEARS TO HAVE PRACTICALLY NO STEM AT ALL BUT PRODUCES mOWERS ALMOST AS IT EMERGES FROM THE TURF 4HE LOW GROWING EVERGREEN ALPENROSE SHRUB 2HODODENDRON FERRUGINEUM HAS A REMARKABLY WIDE RANGE THROUGHOUT THE !LPS mOWERING PINK TO DEEP RED ON HILLSIDES UP TO M BETWEEN *UNE AND !UGUST AND WHERE IT FORMS A CARPET THE SUMMER DISPLAY CAN BE EXTREMELY ATTRACTIVE 4HE CREEPING AZALEA ,OISELEURIA PROCUMBENS IS A MEMBER OF THE SAME FAMILY AND HAS SIMILAR COLOURING "UT THIS PLANT PREFERS EXPOSED PEATY SITES AND IS OFTEN FOUND ON ACID SOILS GROWING AT ALTITUDES OF nM &ORMING CUSHIONS OVER ROCKS AND SCREES THE MOSS CAMPION 3ILENE ACAULIS IS A MASS OF PINK IN A BED OF DEEP GREEN AN EYE CATCHING BEAUTY WHILE THE ROSETTES OF THE COMMON HOUSELEEK 3EMPERVIVUM TECTORUM CAN DECORATE OTHERWISE DRAB MORAINES WHEN THEY PRODUCE THEIR STALK OF BRIGHT PINK mOWER HEADS IN SUMMER !ND OF COURSE THERES THE EDELWEISS ,EONTOPODIUM ALPINUM WHOSE WOOLLY GREY mOWERS HAVE FOR SOME REASON BECOME PRIZED ABOVE ALL OTHER MOUNTAIN PLANTS &OUND USUALLY BUT NOT EXCLUSIVELY ON LIMESTONE IT MAY BE SEEN CLUSTERED IN SHORT GRASS OVERLOOKING A GLACIER OR THRUSTING FROM A CLIFF FACE )TS DISTRIBU TION IN 3WITZERLAND RANGES FROM THE %NGADINE TO THE "ERNESE AND 0ENNINE !LPS mOURISHING BETWEEN AND M CZ,FW3FZOPMET
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TS SURPRISINGLY HARD TO lND BOOKS ABOUT 3WITZERLAND 'O TO ANY LARGE BOOK STORE AND YOULL SEE PLENTY OF SHELVES DEVOTED TO THE HISTORY AND POLITICS OF 'ERMANY &RANCE )TALY AND THE REST OF %UROPE BUT YOULL BE LUCKY TO lND A SINGLE WORK ON 3WITZERLAND ,ITERATURE IS THE SAME WITH 3WISS AUTHORS RARELY REACHING AUDIENCES IN THEIR NATIVE LANGUAGES OUTSIDE THE BORDERS OF THEIR OWN COUNTRY LET ALONE GETTING TRANSLATED INTO %NGLISH FOR A WIDER MARKET 0RO (ELVETIA THE FEDERALLY FUNDED !RTS #OUNCIL OF 3WITZERLAND PUBLISHES A RANGE OF SLIM PAPERBACKS GIVING ERUDITE BACKGROUND TO THE COUNTRY AND ITS CULTURE IN %NGLISH SUBJECTS COVERED INCLUDE MUSIC THEATRE LITERATURE COMPOS ERS DANCE AND BALLET MEDIA CINEMA ARCHITECTURE PHILOSOPHY POLITICS SOCIAL STRUCTURE REFUGEES MULTILINGUALISM AND MORE 9OU CAN GET ANY OR ALL OF THEM FOR FREE BY CONTACTING YOUR NEAREST 3WISS EMBASSY OR ORDER ONLINE AT WWW PRO HELVETIACH 0UBLISHERS ARE LISTED BELOW IN THE FORM OF 5+ PUBLISHER53 PUBLISHER WHERE BOTH EXIST h50v STANDS FOR 5NIVERSITY 0RESS hOPv SIGNIlES OUT OF PRINT h"ERGLIv REFERS TO "ERGLI "OOKS WWWBERGLICH AN %NGLISH LANGUAGE 3WISS PUBLISHER WHICH PRODUCES AND DISTRIBUTES A RANGE OF BOOKS ON 3WITZERLAND "OOKS TAGGED WITH THE SYMBOL ARE PARTICULARLY RECOMMENDED
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0ETER !RENGO *ONES 1UEEN 6ICTORIA IN 3WITZERLAND 2OBERT (ALE !BSORB ING TRANSCRIPT OF 6ICTORIAS DIARIES FROM HER INCOGNITO STAY IN ,UZERN IN !UGUST ALONG WITH A COMMEN TARY WEAVING EVENTS INTO THE CONTEXT OF HISTORICAL AND POLITICAL EVENTS OF THE DAY
-AVIS #OULSON 3OUTHWARDS TO 'ENEVA !LAN 3UTTON 7ELL RESEARCHED SURVEY OF TWO CENTURIES OF %NGLISH TRAVELLERS MUSINGS ON 'ENEVA AND THE 3WISS INCLUDING EXCERPTS FROM THE WRITINGS OF "OSWELL -ARIA %DGEWORTH "YRON 3HELLEY AND MORE ALONG WITH PLENTY OF PICTURES ENGRAVINGS AND SKETCHES
4REVOR "RAHAM 7HEN THE !LPS #AST 4HEIR 3PELL .EIL 7ILSON 3UBTITLED h-OUNTAINEERS OF THE !LPINE 'OLDEN !GEv THIS IS AN AWARD WINNING ACCOUNT OF THE EARLY DAYS OF !LPINE CONQUEST WITH DETAILED CHAPTERS ON THE LIFE AND CAREER OF EACH OF THE MAJOR NINETEENTH CENTURY PLAYERS n 3TEPHEN 7HYMPER -UMMERY AND THE REST &ASCINATING AND COMPREHENSIVE
%LMA $ANGERlELD "YRON THE 2OMANTICS IN 3WITZERLAND 4HOMAS ,YSTER 3LIM ACCOUNT OF THE TRAVELS PASSIONS AND WRITINGS OF "YRON 3HELLEY ET AL ON THEIR FAMOUS VISIT TO ,AKE 'ENEVA !LEXANDRE $UMAS 4RAVELS IN 3WITZERLAND /WEN OP %NTERTAINING TALES OF $UMASS JOURNEYINGS AROUND 3WITZERLAND IN AT THE AGE OF
]#PPLT
7HEN THE FIRST -URRAYS (ANDBOOK TO 3WITZERLAND APPEARED IN THERE HAD ALREADY BEEN A COUPLE OF CENTURIES OR MORE OF TRAVELOGUES TELLING OF ADVENTURES HAD WHILE ON LONG CROSSINGS OF THE !LPS THROUGHOUT THE NINETEENTH CENTURY THE TRICKLE OF MEMOIRS BECAME A mOOD -OST OF THESE VENERABLE TOMES ARE NOW LONG OUT OF PRINT AND THE LIST BELOW IS A SMALL SELECTION OF MORE WIDELY AVAILABLE WORKS
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(EINRICH (ARRER 4HE 7HITE 3PIDER &LAMINGO #LASSIC MOUNTAINEERS TALE OF THE lRST ASCENT OF THE .ORTH &ACE OF THE %IGER IN BY A FOUR MAN TEAM FROM 'ERMANY &ULL OF THRILLS SPILLS AND VIVID WRITING *IM 2ING (OW THE %NGLISH -ADE THE !LPS *OHN -URRAY #OMPREHENSIVE AND WELL WRITTEN ACCOUNT OF %NGLISH INVOLVEMENT IN !LPINE TRAVEL AND EXPLORATION FROM THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY TO THE PHENOMENAL GROWTH IN WINTER SPORTS IN THE MID TWENTIETH 4HE EVOCATION OF 6ICTORIAN IMPERIAL AMBITION SET AGAINST THE BACKDROP OF THE CONQUEST OF !LPINE PEAKS AND THE RISE IN TOUR ISM IS OUTSTANDING
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-ARK 4WAIN ! 4RAMP !BROAD /XFORD 50 AND #LIMBING THE 2IGI (àRLIMANN 7RY WITTY AND HUGELY ENJOYABLE TALES OF MOUNTAIN CLIMBING AND EXPLORATION IN THE !LPS WHEN SUCH A THING WAS THE HEIGHT OF FASHION
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%DWARD 7HYMPER 3CRAMBLES !MONGST THE !LPS $OVER -ODERN REPRINT OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY MOUNTAINEERS ORIGINAL ACCOUNT OF THE CONQUEST OF THE -ATTERHORN AMONGST MANY OTHER EPIC TALES OF ADVENTURE
-ODERNªTRAVELLERSªANDªEXPATª LIFE 0AUL . "ILTON 4HE 0ERPETUAL 4OURIST )N 3EARCH OF A 3WISS 2OLE "ERGLI ! DIARY OF AN %NGLISHMAN LIVING IN 3WITZERLAND DOCUMENTING THE AUTHORS VARIOUS ATTEMPTS TO BRIDGE THE CULTURAL DIVIDE 4HE AUTHOR QUOTE ON THE BACK SAYS IT ALL h4HE "RITISH LOOK FOR HUMOUR IN EVERY THING THE 3WISS ARE BROUGHT UP NOT TO EXPECT ITv (IS ,AUGHING !LONG 7ITH THE 3WISS "ERGLI IS IN MUCH THE SAME VEIN
$IANNE $ICKS ED 4ICKING !LONG 7ITH THE 3WISS 4ICKING !LONG 4OO AND 4ICKING !LONG &REE "ERGLI %NTERTAINING COLLECTIONS OF
PERSONAL STORIES FROM TRAVELLERS TO 3WITZERLAND AND VARIOUS EXPATS LIVING AND WORKING THERE n LIGHT READING THAT OFFERS A SIDELONG GLANCE AT THE PEOPLE AND THE CULTURE %UGENE 6 %PSTEIN /NCE 5PON AN !LP "ERGLI 7RY VIGNETTES OF LIFE IN 3WITZERLAND THROUGH !MERICAN3WISS EYES OUT OF PRINT SINCE THE S AND NOW REPUBLISHED 3HIRLEY %U 7ONG #ULTURE 3HOCK 3WITZERLAND +UPERARD 3LIM CHATTY TRAWL THROUGH THE IDIOSYNCRACIES OF 3WISS SOCIETY WRITTEN MORE FOR ARRIVING EXPATS THAN TOURISTS THOUGH WITH HANDY BITS AND PIECES FOR ALL $AVID (AMPSHIRE ,IVING AND 7ORKING IN 3WITZERLAND 3URVIVAL ! COMPLETE RUNDOWN OF RULES AND REGULATIONS FOR THOSE PLANNING TO EMIGRATE EITHER PERMANENTLY OR JUST FOR THE WINTER SKI BUM SEASON ALONG WITH A RAFT OF USEFUL TIPS ON HOW TO AVOID THE WORST OF THE BUREAUCRACY -ARGARET /ERTIG $AVIDSON "EYOND #HOCOLATE 5NDERSTANDING 3WISS #ULTURE "ERGLI /UTSTANDING DISSECTION OF THE COUNTRY AND ITS MENTALITY n ONE OF THE MOST INSIGHT FUL BOOKS ON 3WITZERLAND AVAILABLE IN %NGLISH /STENSIBLY TARGETED AT EXPATS AND LONG TERM VISITORS THIS IS NONE THELESS INVALUABLE FOR ANYONE WANTING TO GET A HANDLE ON HOW THE PLACE WORKS BENEATH THE STEREOTYPES AND THE TOURISTIC IMAGES 3USAN 4UTTLE )NSIDE /UTLANDISH "ERGLI "RIEF LITTLE BOOK THAT PLAY FULLY TRIES TO BRIDGE THE EXPAT GAP EXPLAINING THE 3WISS TO OUTSIDERS AND OUTSIDERS TO THE 3WISS 6ITALI 6ITALIEV ,ITTLE IS THE ,IGHT 3IMON 3CHUSTER 3UBTITLED h.OSTALGIC TRAVELS IN THE MINI STATES OF %UROPEv THIS IS A TRAIL THROUGH ,UXEMBOURG 3AN -ARINO THE )SLE OF -AN AND VARIOUS OTHER STATELETS BY
AN AWARD WINNING 2USSIAN JOURNALIST n THE CHAPTER ON ,IECHTENSTEIN IS AN ESPECIALLY WITTY AND ENGAGING PORTRAIT OF THE COUNTRY AND ONE OF THE FEW TO TAKE THE PLACE AT LEAST HALFWAY SERIOUSLY
'UIDEBOOKS 0ETER (ABICHT ,IFTING THE -ASK "ERGLI 5NASSUMING LITTLE VOLUME THAT DISSECTS THE "ASEL &ASNACHT CARNIVAL IN MINUTE DETAIL 7RITTEN BY A LOCAL HISTORIAN AND &ASNACHTLER IT GIVES UNPRECEDENTED INSIGHT INTO THIS ODD EVENT
!LEXANDER 3CHWAB ,AKE 4HUN "ERGLI #OFFEE TABLE TOME IN %NGLISH PACKED WITH PHOTOS EVOKING THIS MOST BEAUTIFUL OF 3WISS LAKES 0ETER 3TUDER ET AL "ERNE ! 0ORTRAIT OF 3WITZERLANDS &EDERAL #APITAL OF ITS PEOPLE CULTURE AND SPIRIT "ERGLI !NOTHER INTERESTING PHOTO LADEN COFFEE TABLE BOOK WRITTEN BY "ERNESE INSIDERS %LISABETH 5PTON %ICHENBERGER 6AUD AND :ERMATT 5PTON %ICHENBERGER 5+ %XCELLENT SELF PUBLISHED GUIDES TO TWO OF THE COUNTRYS MOST CELEBRATED CORNERS FULL OF TALES HISTORICAL ODDS AND ENDS AND OTHER DELIGHTFULLY LONG WINDED MATERIAL THAT GETS EDITED OUT OF MOST ORTHODOX GUIDEBOOKS
]#PPLT
+EV 2EYNOLDS 7ALKING IN THE !LPS 4HE 6ALAIS 4HE "ERNESE !LPS #ENTRAL 3WITZERLAND 4HE *URA WITH 2 "RIAN %VANS 4HE %NGADINE 7ALKING IN 4ICINO 4HE !LPINE 0ASS 2OUTE AND #HAMONIX TO :ERMATT 4HE 7ALKERS (AUTE 2OUTE ALL #ICERONE 5+ SOME (UNTER 53 OTHERS )NTERLINK 53 4HE CLASSIC 3WISS WALKING GUIDES
)AN 2OBERTSON "LUE 'UIDE 3WITZERLAND !# "LACK.ORTON %NCYCLOPEDIC HISTORICAL AND ARCHI TECTURAL TOUR OF THE WHOLE COUNTRY PACKED WITH DETAIL ON VIRTUALLY EVERY HISTORICAL BUILDING AND A WEALTH OF SKETCHED OUT MOUNTAIN WALKS AND CLIMBS
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-ARCIA 0HILIP ,IEBERMAN 3WITZERLANDS -OUNTAIN )NNS #OUNTRY MAN 53 ,OVINGLY FOLKSY WALKING TOUR OF MANY ISOLATED "ERGHËUSER TUCKED AWAY IN THE REMOTE !LPS ALONG WITH PLENTY OF TRIED AND TRUSTED ADVICE FOR HIKERS LOOKING TO GET AWAY FROM IT ALL 4HEIR 7ALKING 3WITZERLAND 4HE 3WISS 7AY -OUN TAINEERS 53 IS A QUALITY GUIDE TO WALKS THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY WITH FULL BACKGROUND PLUS PLENTY OF TRAIL INFORMATION AND PRACTICAL GUIDELINES
VIVIDLY AND KNOWLEDGEABLY WRITTEN CONTAINING DETAILED ROUTE DESCRIPTIONS AND SKETCH MAPS 7ALKING IN THE !LPS IS THE LARGEST AN AMALGAM OF SEVERAL LONG DISTANCE ROUTES WITH NEW TRAILS ALL THE OTHERS ARE NEAT LITTLE VOLUMES CONCENTRATING ON PARTICULAR AREAS OR HIKES
)JTUPSZBOETPDJFUZ *OY #HARNLEY -ALCOLM 0ENDER EDS )MAGES OF 3WITZERLAND #HAL LENGES FROM THE -ARGINS 0ETER ,ANG "ERN 3LENDER COLLECTION OF ESSAYS PUBLISHED BY THE #ENTRE FOR 3WISS #ULTURAL 3TUDIES AT 'LASGOW 5NIVER SITY INCLUDING A REVIEW OF HISTORICAL ATTITUDES TOWARDS THE *EWS BEFORE 7ORLD 7AR )) AND ASSESSMENTS OF THEMES OF MARGINALIZATION IN RECENT
3WISS 'ERMAN &RENCH AND )TALIAN LITERATURE #LIVE ( #HURCH 4HE 0OLITICS AND 'OVERNMENT OF 3WITZERLAND 0ALGRAVE -ACMILLAN ! LEARNED WORK TARGETED AT STUDENTS OF COMPARATIVE %UROPEAN POLITICS BUT FASCINATING FOR PROVID ING A DIGESTIBLE ONE STOP TAKE ON THE MAKE UP OF THE 3WISS BODY POLITIC
7ALTER $ETTWILER 7ILLIAM 4ELL 0ORTRAIT OF A ,EGEND 3WISS .ATIONAL -USEUM &ASCINATING LITTLE STUDY OF THE WEB OF TALES SURROUNDING THE 3WISS NATIONAL HERO AND THE MANY DIFFERENT WAYS THE STORY HAS BEEN TOLD OVER THE CENTURIES TO SUIT THE CONCERNS OF EACH PARTICULAR AGE $IETER &AHRNI !N /UTLINE (ISTORY OF 3WITZERLAND 0RO (ELVETIA #OMPACT PAGE OVER VIEW OF THE MAIN EVENTS IN 3WISS HISTORY FROM *ULIUS #AESAR TO THE .AZI GOLD SCANDAL A LITTLE GUSHING ON RECENT EVENTS AND ACCOMPLISH MENTS THIS IS AFTER ALL PUBLISHED BY THE OFlCIAL !RTS #OUNCIL OF 3WITZERLAND BUT NONETHELESS VALUABLE FOR ITS CLARITY AND SIMPLICITY OF APPROACH !VAILABLE FREE FROM 3WISS EMBASSIES WORLDWIDE $0/5&954
]#PPLT
#AROLINE -OORHEAD $UNANTS $REAM (ARPER#OLLINS 3UBTITLED h7AR 3WITZERLAND AND THE (ISTORY OF THE 2ED #ROSSv THIS IS A MASSIVELY DETAILED TRAWL THROUGH THE PREVI OUSLY CLOSED ARCHIVES OF THE 2ED #ROSS DOCUMENTING THE HISTORY OF THE ORGANIZATION AND THE SOMETIMES HESITANT ENTANGLEMENTS OF ITS WELL INTENTIONED BUREAUCRATS IN THE NASTIEST WARS OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY -ITYA .EW 3WITZERLAND 5NWRAPPED )" 4AURIS &ASCINATING DELVE INTO THE COUNTRYS SKELETON RICH CUPBOARDS PRESENTING EYE WITNESS ACCOUNTS OF 3WISS TREAT MENT OF *EWS AND GYPSIES ATTEMPTS TO SOLVE :àRICHS DRUG PROBLEMS TRADI TIONAL 3WISS CULTURE AND HOW IT lTS INTO MODERN SOCIETY AND MORE WELL WRITTEN BY A 2EUTERS JOURNALIST WITH AN EYE FOR A STORY *OACHIM 2EMAK ! 6ERY #IVIL 7AR 7ESTVIEW 0RESS )LLUSTRATED CHRONICLE OF THE 3ONDERBUND WAR
OF THAT DRAWS MANY PARALLELS WITH THE EVENTS OF THE !MERICAN CIVIL WAR THAT FOLLOWED WITHIN lFTEEN YEARS *ONATHAN 3TEINBERG 7HY 3WITZERLAND #AMBRIDGE 50 /UTSTANDING OVERVIEW OF 3WISS SOCIETY HISTORY AND CULTURE A LEARNED YET ANECDOTAL ACCOUNT OF THE COUNTRY THAT IS RICH WITH DETAIL BUT MAINTAINS A SUPERB GRASP OF THE WIDER PICTURE -ANAGES TO GIVE PROFOUND INSIGHT INTO HOW 3WITZERLAND WORKS AND WHY IT IS THE WAY IT IS WHILE REMAIN ING EASILY READABLE AND DIGESTIBLE 0ERFECT TRAIN JOURNEY READING IF YOU BUY ONLY ONE BOOK ABOUT THE COUNTRY BUY THIS ONE *OHN 7RAIGHT 4HE 3WISS AND THE "RITISH -ICHAEL 2USSELL OP #OMPREHENSIVE STUDY OF RELATIONS BETWEEN THE TWO COUNTRIES n POLITI CAL CULTURAL SPORTING MILITARY AND MORE n IN THE FORM OF AN EXHAUSTIVE CHRONOLOGY FROM THE EARLIEST TIMES UNTIL THE PRESENT DAY #URRENTLY OUT OF PRINT BUT SCHEDULED FOR A NEW EDITION *EAN :IEGLER 4HE 3WISS 4HE 'OLD AND THE $EAD (ARCOURT 4RADE0ENGUIN /F ALL THE mOOD OF BOOKS THAT JUMPED ONTO THE BAND WAGON OF THE .AZI GOLD SCANDAL ONCE THE DEPTH OF 3WISS COLLABORATION BECAME CLEAR THIS WAS THE MOST HARD HITTING WRITTEN BY A HIGHLY QUALIlED ACADEMIC AT THE 5NIVERSITY OF 'ENEVA AND FORMER PARLIAMENTARIAN n HOUNDED AND NOW POLITICALLY OSTRACIZED FOR REMAINING UNCOWED BY THE STORM OF PROTEST HIS REVELATIONS UNLEASHED (IS CALM CONDEMNATION OF THE ENTIRE 3WISS ESTABLISHMENT FOR THEIR ROLE IN FUNDING THE .AZIS PROLONGING THE WAR AND REFUSING TO HELP THE *EWS IS DEVASTATING
-JUFSBUVSF 3WITZERLANDªINªFOREIGNªlCTION 4HIS IS NECESSARILY A TINY BITE AT A VERY LARGE APPLE A HANDFUL OF PERSONAL SELECTIONS THAT OMITS MUCH MORE THAN IT INCLUDES !NITA "ROOKNER (OTEL DU ,AC 0ENGUIN ! ROMANTIC NOVELIST RUNS AWAY FROM HER IMPENDING MARRIAGE TO SPEND A SEASON AT A GRAND HOTEL IN A GENTEEL LAKESIDE RESORT 6EVEY IN ALL BUT NAME AND THERE lNDS WHAT SEEMS TO BE THE START OF A NEW LIFE OF FREEDOM "EAUTIFULLY CRAFTED PROSE THE BEST OF "ROOKNERS USUALLY RATHER DRY OFFERINGS AND WINNER OF THE "OOKER 0RIZE
]#PPLT
0ATRICIA (IGHSMITH 3MALL G A 3UMMER )DYLL 0ENGUIN (IGHSMITH n WHO SPENT HER LAST YEARS LIVING IN A 4ICINESE VILLAGE n IS BEST KNOWN FOR 3TRANGERS ON A 4RAIN MADE INTO A lLM BY !LFRED (ITCHCOCK IN ALONG WITH HER MANY WORKS OF CRIME lCTION CENTRED ON 4OM 2IPLEY 3MALL G IS FOCUSED ON THE CHARACTERS WHO FREQUENT A :àRICH BAR DURING ONE SUMMER WITH A STORY OF LOVE SEXUALITY AND GENEROSITY EXPERTLY PLOTTED AROUND THEM 3HE DIED A MONTH BEFORE ITS PUBLICATION IN
4HOMAS -ANN 4HE -AGIC -OUNTAIN -INERVA2ANDOM (OUSE 3EMINAL 7ORLD 7AR ) NOVEL OF IDEAS THAT EMPLOYS A GROUP OF PATIENTS IN A $AVOS SANATORIUM TO DISCUSS IDEAS OF LOVE WAR AND DEATH THE CHARACTERS ONGOING TUBERCULOSIS SYMBOLIZING THE SICKNESS OF %UROPEAN SOCIETY AS A WHOLE !LTHOUGH THIS NOVEL IS ACCLAIMED AS THE AUTHORS GREATEST IT WAS RECEIVED LESS THAN FAVOURABLY IN $AVOS ITSELF WHOSE RESIDENTS OBJECTED TO THE TOWNS PORTRAYAL AS A PLACE OF NEGLECT WHERE SUFFERERS STOOD LITTLE CHANCE OF BEING CURED 4HIS AND -ANNS OTHER BOOKS WERE LATER BURNED BY THE .AZIS IN HIS NATIVE 'ERMANY
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'RAHAM 'REENE $R &ISCHER OF 'ENEVA 0ENGUIN !POCALYPTIC NOVELLA SET IN AND AROUND THE LAKE SIDE RESIDENCE OF A RICH MISANTHROPE WHO DECIDES TO TAKE HIS REVENGE ON THE FAWNING SOCIALITES WHO CRAVE HIS MONEY ! mUENT AND COMPELLING READ PUBLISHED WHEN 'REENE WAS
(ENRY *AMES $AISY -ILLER 0ENGUIN 4HE NOVELLA THAT MADE *AMESS NAME A WITTY INSIGHTFUL PORTRAIT OF A YOUNG !MERICAN TOURIST VISITING ,AKE 'ENEVA WHO mIRTS AND TEASES AND THEN TRAVELS TO THE #HÊTEAU DE #HILLON UNCHAPERONED AND SO GETS HER COMEUPPANCE
-ARY 3HELLEY &RANKENSTEIN 0ENGUIN 4HE FAMOUS TALE OF AN IDEALISTIC DOCTORS DABBLINGS WITH THE ELEMENTAL FORCES OF LIFE INSPIRED BY hA HALF WAKING NIGHTMAREv AND WRITTEN NEAR 'ENEVA IN THE SUMMER OF AS -ARY 3HELLEYS OFFERING IN A GHOST STORY WRITING COMPETITION DREAMT UP BY ,ORD "YRON
3WISSªAUTHORS 4HIS IS A CHOICE OF THE HANDFUL OF 3WISS AUTHORS CLASSIC AND MODERN WHOSE WORKS HAVE BEEN TRANSLATED INTO %NGLISH !LMOST ALL ARE 'ERMAN 3WISS 4HE COUPLE OF S NOVELS BY THE ,AUSANNOIS WRITER #HARLES &ERDINAND 2AMUZ THAT HAVE BEEN TRANSLATED INTO %NGLISH n 4ERROR ON THE -OUNTAIN AND 7HEN THE -OUNTAIN &ELL VIRTUALLY THE ONLY WORKS BY ANY &RENCH 3WISS AUTHORS TO BE PUBLISHED IN %NGLISH n ARE NOW OUT OF PRINT 4HE ARRAY OF WRITINGS BY THE GREAT 4ICINESE POET AND NOVELIST &RANCESCO #HIESA WHO DIED IN AT THE AGE OF HAVE YET TO lND AN %NGLISH TRANSLATOR AS DO ANY BY 2OMANSH WRITERS BAR A SINGLE OUT OF PRINT ANTHOLOGY
2ETO 2 "EZZOLA 4HE #URLY (ORNED #OW !NTHOLOGY OF 3WISS 2OMANSH ,ITERATURE OP 4HE SOLE TRANSLATION INTO %NGLISH OF ANY 2OMANSH WRITING NOW OUT OF PRINT -ICHAEL "UTLER -ALCOLM 0ENDER EDS 2EJECTION AND %MAN CIPATION "ERG 3TUDY OF WRITING IN 'ERMAN SPEAKING 3WITZERLAND BETWEEN AND WITH LIT CRIT ESSAYS ON &RISCH AND $àRRENMATT AS WELL AS -EYER ,OETSCHER 3CHRIBER AND OTHERS
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-AX &RISCH -AN IN THE (OLOCENE (ARCOURT "RACE 4HE MOST STRIK ING OF THE SIX NOVELS BY &RISCH WHO WAS BORN IN :àRICH IN AND IS ACCLAIMED AS ONE OF THE CENTURYS GREATEST WRITERS 4HIS IS A HAUNTING BUT MOVING MEDITATION ON MORTAL ITY ILLUMINATING THE SLOW DECAY OF AN OLD MANS THOUGHT PROCESSES AS HE APPROACHES DEATH &RISCHS OTHER NOVELS ARE "LUEBEARD 'ANTENBEIN (OMO &ABER HIS ACCLAIMED MASTER PIECE )M .OT 3TILLER AND -ONTAUK *EREMIAS 'OTTHELF 4HE "LACK 3PIDER +NIGHTSCROSS 3TORIES TALES AND MORALITY PIECES FROM THE NINE TEENTH CENTURY %MMENTAL AS TOLD BY 'OTTHELF A CLERIC TURNED AUTHOR (ERMANN (ESSE 3TEPPENWOLF 0ENGUIN (ESSES BEST KNOWN WORK PROFOUND SOCIAL DECONSTRUC TION WRAPPED UP AS FANTASY WHICH WEAVES STRANDS OF %ASTERN RELIGION AND MYSTICISM INTO THE COMPELLING TALE OF A MIDDLE AGED MISANTHROPES PROGRESS TOWARDS SOCIAL AND SPIRITUAL MATURITY hVIOLENTLY MISUNDERSTOODv ACCORDING TO (ESSE /F HIS DOZENS OF OTHER WORKS 3IDDHARTHA IS A GRACE FUL RETELLING OF THE LEGEND OF THE "UDDHA .ARZISS AND 'OLDMUND IS A PICARESQUE PORTRAIT OF TWO MONKS ONE A SCHOLAR THE OTHER A BOHE MIAN AND 4HE 'LASS "EAD 'AME IS A MONUMENTAL UTOPIAN NOVEL SET IN A FUTURE WHERE AN ELITE GROUP DEVEL OPS A GAME THAT RESOLVES THE WORLDS CONmICTS
:OÑ *ENNY 4HE 0OLLEN 2OOM "LOOMSBURY !N UNDERSTATED MESMERIC NOVEL TRANSLATED FROM THE 'ERMAN POETICALLY CHRONICLING A MARRIAGE BREAKUP THROUGH THE EYES OF A CHILD 4HIS IS THE lRST NOVEL BY *ENNY WHO WAS BORN IN "ASEL IN 'OTTFRIED +ELLER 'REEN (ENRY *OHN #ALDER -ASSIVE TOME OF A NOVEL AND A HIGHLY CELEBRATED "ILDUNGSROMAN CHARTING THE :àRICH BORN AUTHORS COUNTRY YOUTH AND PHILOSOPHY WRIT TEN BETWEEN AND TO A BACKDROP OF UNREQUITED LOVE IN "ERLIN ,ISELOTTE -ARSHALL 4ONGUE 4IED "IRDS OF 0ASSAGE 4ENDER NOVEL OF RECONCILIATION SET IN 0ÏNIEL A lCTIONAL 3WISS !LPINE TOWN ONCE KNOWN FOR ITS SANATORIUMS THAT IS NOW A TOURIST HAVEN AND CENTRED ON 2ACHEL AN INTERPRETER WHO IS FORCED TO CONFRONT HER PAINFUL WARTIME PAST *OHANNA 3PYRI (EIDI 0ENGUIN 0ERHAPS THE MOST FAMOUS BOOK EVER WRITTEN ABOUT 3WITZERLAND BUT A HOPELESSLY MORALISTIC CLOYING TALE FOR ALL THAT 3PYRI EXPERTLY EVOKES THE FOLKSINESS AND STOLID CULTURE OF THE 3WISS !LPINE FARMERS AND EFFORTLESSLY PULLS HEARTSTRINGS FOR HER CHEESE MUNCHING MILK QUAFlNG HEROINE "EAT 3TERCHI 4HE #OW &ABER 5+ 4RANSLATED EPIC lRST NOVEL SET IN A DAIRY FARM AND AN ABATTOIR FOCUSING ON THE EXPERIENCES OF A 3PANISH GUEST WORKER IN 3WITZER LAND n (EANEY ESQUE IN ITS SUPERB EVOCATION OF RURAL LIFE .OT EASY TO READ BUT ULTIMATELY HIGHLY REWARD ING PRAISED BY THE 'UARDIAN FOR ITS hUNCOMPROMISING MAGNIlCENCE AS A WORK OF ARTv 2OBERT 7ALSER -ASQUERADE AND OTHER STORIES 1UARTET )MPRO VISED PROSE POEMS AND POETIC SHORT STORIES FROM 7ALSERS LIFE IN FOUR CITIES :àRICH "ERLIN "IEL AND "ERN OVER THE PERIOD n TRACING
INmUENCES ON +AFKA AND OTHER AVANT GARDE MODERNISTS 4HE 7ALK 3ERPENTS 4AIL IS THE BEST COLLECTION OF HIS SHORT lCTION 4HE NOVEL *AKOB VON 'UNTEN PUBLISHED IN 5+ AS )NSTITUTE "ENJA MENTA 3ERPENTS 4AIL AND .EW 9ORK 2EVIEW "OOKS #LASSICS THE DREAM LIKE TALE OF A YOUNG MAN AT A SCHOOL FOR BUTLERS WAS lLMED BY "RITAINS #HANNEL !FTER 7ALSER SPENT HIS LAST YEARS IN AN ASYLUM NEAR !PPENZELL h) WROTE NOTHING MORE v HE SAID h7HAT FOR -Y WORLD HAD
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'PPEBOEESJOL -ARIANNE +ALTENBACH #OOKING IN 3WITZERLAND 7OLFGANG (ÚLKER -àNSTER 'ERMANY &RIENDLY TROT THROUGH SOME TRADITIONAL 3WISS RECI PES HEAVY ON THE MEAT AND CREAM
3UE 3TYLE ! 4ASTE OF 3WITZERLAND "ERGLI &INEST OF THE HAND FUL OF COOKERY BOOKS DEVOTED TO 3WITZERLAND WITH INFORMED CULTURAL BACKGROUND TO LOCAL FESTIVALS AND FOOD CELEBRATIONS DOTTED IN AMONGST THE RECIPES
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OR A RELATIVELY SMALL COUNTRY BANG IN THE HEART OF 7ESTERN %UROPE 3WITZERLAND HAS AN ASTONISHINGLY COMPLICATED ARRAY OF LANGUAGES TO HAVE TO COME TO TERMS WITH 4HE ONE CRUMB OF COMFORT IS THAT ALMOST EVERYONE YOULL COME ACROSS WILL SPEAK AT LEAST A SMATTERING OF %NGLISH AND SOME 3WISS ARE DISCONCERTINGLY MULTILINGUAL mUENCY IN FOUR OR lVE LANGUAGES ISNT AS RARE AS YOU MIGHT ASSUME 4HERE ARE FOUR NATIONAL LANGUAGES IN 3WITZERLAND "ROADLY 'ERMAN IS SPOKEN IN THE CENTRE AND THE EAST &RENCH IN THE WEST )TALIAN IN THE SOUTH AND 2OMANSH IN A FEW SMALL AREAS OF THE SOUTHEAST 4HE DIVIDING LINES BETWEEN THEM SEE MAP MOSTLY STEM FROM THE MOVEMENTS OF TRIBAL PEOPLES IN MEDIEVAL TIMES AND GENERALLY HAVE NOTHING TO DO WITH THE CANTONAL BOUNDARIES WHICH WERE DRAWN UP MUCH LATER #ANTONS "ERN &RIBOURG AND 6ALAIS ARE ALL BILINGUAL 'ERMAN&RENCH WHILE 'RAUBàNDEN IS TRILINGUAL 'ERMAN)TALIAN2OMANSH !CCORDING TO CENSUS lGURES PERCENT OF THE 3WISS POPULATION CONSIDER 'ERMAN THEIR MAIN LANGUAGE PERCENT &RENCH PERCENT )TALIAN AND PERCENT 2OMANSH THE REST ARE hOTHERSv PRINCIPALLY %NGLISH SPEAKING EXPATS AND INTERNATIONAL OFlCIALS (OWEVER MORE THAN ONE IN TEN OF THE 3WISS POPULATION USE %NGLISH REGULARLY EVERY DAY ALONGSIDE THEIR OWN MOTHER TONGUE !LL THE SPOKEN LANGUAGES OF 3WITZERLAND HAVE DIFFERENCES FROM THE ORTHODOX STANDARD VERSIONS USED ELSEWHERE THAT YOU MAY ALREADY HAVE A GRASP OF 4HE 'ERMAN SPOKEN IN 3WITZERLAND FOR INSTANCE IS COMPLETELY DIFFERENT FROM THAT SPOKEN IN 'ERMANY OR !USTRIA AND HAS ITS OWN UNIQUE VOCABULARY GRAMMAR
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AND SYNTAX )TS UMBRELLA TITLE h3WISS 'ERMANv COVERS A MULTITUDE OF REGIONAL DIALECTS WITH MARKED DIFFERENCES BOTH FROM EACH OTHER AND FROM STANDARD 'ERMAN THE DIALECT OF "ASEL IS DIFFERENT FROM THAT OF :àRICH WHICH IS DIFFERENT AGAIN FROM THAT SPOKEN IN THE HIGH VALLEYS OF /BERWALLIS )N ADDITION BOTH THE &RENCH AND )TALIAN OF 3WITZERLAND HAVE SMALL BUT NOTICEABLE DIFFERENCES FROM THE hPUREv LANGUAGES SPOKEN OVER THE BORDERS 2OMANSH SEE P HAS DETECTABLY THE SAME ,ATIN ROOTS AS &RENCH AND )TALIAN BUT IS DIFFERENT FROM BOTH OF THEM 2OUGH 'UIDES OWN &RENCH )TALIAN AND 'ERMAN PHRASEBOOKS ARE HANDY THOUGH YOULL EARN EXTRA RESPECT FOR ATTEMPTING 3WISS 'ERMAN WHERE POSSIBLE WITH DICTIONARY STYLE LISTINGS AS WELL AS MENU READERS AND GRAMMAR SECTIONS &OR 3WISS 'ERMAN (OI 9OUR 3WISS 'ERMAN 3URVIVAL 'UIDE BY 3ERGIO * ,IEVANO AND .ICOLE %GGER PUBLISHED BY "ERGLI "OOKS WWWBERGLICH IS THE ONLY WORK OF ITS KIND IN %NGLISH WITH GRAMMAR AND VOCABULARY EXPLAINED IN A LIGHT ACCESSIBLE WAY ALONG WITH A DICTIONARY SECTION 4HE ONLY 2OMANSH %NGLISH%NGLISH 2OMANSH DICTIONARY AND PHRASEBOOK BY -ANFRED 'ROSS $ANIEL 4ELLI IS PUBLISHED BY (IPPOCRENE .EW 9ORK WWWMYPLEDARICH IS A COMPREHENSIVE ONLINE 2OMANSH TRANSLATION TOOL )N $YNAMICHA THE MOVEMENT FOR A MULTICULTURAL 3WITZERLAND PUBLISHED AN INVALUABLE COMPARATIVE PHRASEBOOK OF ALL FOUR 3WISS LANGUAGES ENTITLED 3CHWEIZER 3PRACHEN ,ANGUES SUISSES ,INGUE SVIZZERE ,INGUAS SVIZRAS )3". NOW REGRETTABLY OUT OF PRINT BUT WORTH SEARCHING OUT 4HERES NOT A WORD OF %NGLISH IN IT SO YOULL NEED TO BE ALREADY GROUNDED IN AT LEAST ONE OF THE FOUR IN ORDER TO MAKE SENSE OF THE REST - " /( 6"( &
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(FSNBO 4WO FORMS OF 'ERMAN ARE USED IN 3WITZERLAND (IGH 'ERMAN OR (OCHDEUTSCH ALSO KNOWN AS 3CHRIFTDEUTSCH h7RITTEN 'ERMANv IS THE SAME LANGUAGE USED THROUGHOUT 'ERMAN SPEAKING %UROPE 3WISS 'ERMAN OR 3CHWYZERTàTSCH COMPRISES DOZENS OF REGIONAL DIALECTS UNIQUE TO 3WITZERLAND AND IS UNRECOGNIZ ABLE TO SPEAKERS OF (IGH 'ERMAN .O ONE SPEAKS (IGH 'ERMAN IN EVERYDAY SITUATIONS IN 3WITZERLAND ORAL USE OF (IGH 'ERMAN IS RESTRICTED TO SCHOOL EDUCATION THE MASS MEDIA AND PUBLIC SPEAKING )N ALL OTHER SITUATIONS EVERYONE NATURALLY USES THEIR OWN LOCAL DIALECT OF 3WISS 'ERMAN !ND UNLIKE IN "RITAIN OR &RANCE NO ONE IN 'ERMAN SPEAKING 3WITZERLAND STRIVES TO COPY A :àRICH ACCENT OR A "ASEL ACCENT IN ORDER TO GAIN GREATER CREDIBILITY 5SING THE DIALECT OF YOUR HOME TOWN IS A SOURCE OF PRIDE (OWEVER 3WISS 'ERMAN IS HARDLY EVER WRITTEN )TS ONLY RELATIVELY RECENTLY THAT A DICTIONARY LAYING DOWN AGREED SPELLINGS HAS BEEN COMPILED AND ITS STILL OPEN TO SOME CONTROVERSY ASK A 3WISS PERSON TO WRITE SOMETHING IN 3WISS 'ERMAN AND THEYLL PROBABLY STRUGGLE OVER THE SPELLING %VERYBODY WRITES IN (IGH 'ERMAN WHICH IS ALSO THE LANGUAGE OF ALL SIGNS AND PUBLIC NOTICES n BUT WHEN READING OUT LOUD THEY MENTALLY TRANSCRIBE THE (IGH 'ERMAN TEXT INTO THEIR OWN DIALECT OF 3WISS 'ERMAN AS THEYRE GOING ALONG 0EOPLE SEE THE WRITTEN WORD $IENSTAG 4UESDAY AND SAY TSEESCHTIG OR !BEND EVENING AND SAY OBIK -ANY (IGH 'ERMAN WORDS SIMPLY ARENT USED GUTEN 4AG HELLO IS GRàEZI IN 3WISS 'ERMAN 3TRAENBAHN TRAM IS 4RAM &AHRRAD BICYCLE IS 6ELO WHILE REGIONAL DIFFERENCES MEAN THAT 7IESE MEADOW IS 7ISE IN 3T 'ALLEN BUT -ATTE IN "ERN !DD IN A RANGE OF IDIOSYNCRATIC REGIONAL ACCENTS THAT ARE MUCH GREATER THAN THE ACCENT DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SAY -UNICH AND (AMBURG A TENDENCY TO STICK THE COY DIMINUTIVE LI ONTO THE END OF NOUNS AND TO USE THE THROAT RASPING CH AS IN THE 3COTTISH LOCH WHEREVER POSSIBLE AND A STRESS PATTERN THAT
LAYS EMPHASIS IN UNFAMILIAR PLACES USUALLY ON THE lRST SYLLABLE OF A WORD n AND THE GULF FROM (IGH 'ERMAN BECOMES UNBRIDGEABLE 4O A SPEAKER OF (OCHDEUTSCH 3WISS 'ERMAN SOUNDS ARCHAIC AND SINGSONGx AND THIS SEEMS TO DELIGHT THE 3WISS WHO GET THEIR OWN BACK WHEN THEY ASK 'ERMANS TO SAY THE 3WISS WORD FOR hKITCHEN CUPBOARDv TRANSLITERATED AS CHUCHICHËSCHTLI IT SOUNDS WHEN SPOKEN CORRECTLY LIKE A CAT COUGHING UP A HAIRBALL %VEN THE 3WISS AFFECTIONATELY DUB THEIR OWN LANGUAGE -UNDART OR hMOUTH SKILLv -UCH HAS BEEN WRITTEN ABOUT THE ROLE OF 3WISS 'ERMAN AS AN EMBLEM AND SYMBOL OF 3WISSNESS AND HOW THE ACCENT OF EACH REGION REmECTS THAT REGIONS CHARACTER THE TAUT STRETCHED VOWELS OF "ASELDYTSCH THE SLOW LOPING TONE OF "ERNTàTSCH THE CLIPPED EFlCIENCY OF :àRIDàTSCH AND SO ON .O 3WISS WOULD DREAM OF ERASING THESE DIFFERENCES BENEATH A UNIlED NORM n AND NO SUCH NORM EXISTS 7EVE PICKED A ROUGH TRANSLITERATION OF "ERNESE DIALECT TO USE HERE WHICH WILL BE UNIVERSALLY UNDERSTOOD EVEN IF THEY DO SAY THINGS SLIGHTLY DIFFERENTLY ELSEWHERE %VEN IF YOU STUMBLE AND SPLUTTER THE VERY FACT THAT YOURE ATTEMPTING TO GET YOUR TONGUE AROUND 3WISS 'ERMAN PRONUNCIATION AT ALL WILL PROVE A WINNER WITH THE LOCALS n VERY MUCH MORE SO THAN IF YOU WERE TO LAUNCH WITHOUT WARNING INTO THE SLICK SNOOTY LANGUAGE OF THE hBIG CANTONv 'ERMANY
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!NY ATTEMPT TO LAY DOWN RULES FOR 3WISS 'ERMAN PRONUNCIATION IS DOOMED TO FAILURE SINCE PRONUNCIATION OF VOWELS IN PARTICULAR VARIES FROM DISTRICT TO DISTRICT AND EVEN FROM VILLAGE TO VILLAGE 4HE FOLLOWING IS ONLY THE LOOSEST OF GUIDELINES )N WRITTEN 'ERMAN NOTE THAT ALL NOUNS BEGIN WITH A CAPITAL LETTER AND THAT AN UMLAUT OVER A VOWEL IS SOMETIMES REPLACED BY AN hEv :àRICH CAN BE WRITTEN AS :UERICH )N 3WITZERLAND THE 'ERMAN LETTER IS ALWAYS WRITTEN OUT AS hSSv
$POTPOBOUT 4HERE ARE NO SILENT CONSONANTS $IFFERENCES FROM %NGLISH INCLUDE DIJTBTUSPOHUISPBUZSBTQ BTJOUIF4DPUUJTI MPDI HHJTQSPOPVODFEiDLwi&HHwJTFDL BOENBZ FWFOCFXSJUUFOBT&DL KJTMJLFBO&OHMJTIZi+VSBwJTZPPSB LIBTBUISPBUZSBTQBUUBDIFEUPJUEBOLFJT USBOTMJUFSBUFEBTEVOLDIB TJTMJLFBTPGUFOFE&OHMJTI[ TQBUUIFTUBSUPGBXPSEJTQSPOPVODFETIQ TUJTBMXBZTQSPOPVODFETIU XJTMJLFBO&OHMJTIW [JTBMXBZTQSPOPVODFEUT
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3WISS &RENCH IS MUCH LESS FRAUGHT WITH IDIOSYNCRACIES THAN 3WISS 'ERMAN DIALECT THOUGH STILL USED IN THE HINTERLANDS OF THE *URA HAS VIRTUALLY DIED OUT $IFFERENCES DO REMAIN FROM STANDARD &RENCH n PRINCIPALLY IN ACCENT AND INmECTION n BUT THE 'ALLIC ASPIRATIONS OF MOST LOCALS MEAN THAT YOU CAN SPEAK WHATEVER &RENCH YOU KNOW AND BE BOTH UNDERSTOOD AND RESPECTED )NDEED IN SHARP CONTRAST TO &RANCE IN 2OMANDIE YOU CAN EVEN SPEAK %NGLISH WITH IMPUNITY 4HE SURPRISING THING IS THAT VERY FEW &RENCH 3WISS SPEAK OR UNDER STAND 'ERMAN (IGH 'ERMAN n DUBBED WITH A 'ALLIC DISDAIN FOR THE MESSY PATOIS OF THEIR COMPATRIOTS LE BON ALLEMAND n IS TAUGHT IN SOME SCHOOLS BEYOND ELEMENTARY LEVEL BUT GENERALLY ONLY AS AN OPTIONAL SUBJECT /N THE OTHER HAND MOST SCHOOLS IN 'ERMAN SPEAKING 3WITZERLAND TEACH &RENCH UNTIL LEAVING AGE &RENCH 3WISS HAVE VIRTUALLY NO OPPORTUNITY TO LEARN ANYTHING OF SPOKEN 3WISS 'ERMAN WITHOUT GOING TO LIVE AND WORK ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE LANGUAGE BORDER AND PICKING IT UP BIT BY BIT 4HE MOST NOTICEABLE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN 3WISS &RENCH AND STANDARD &RENCH ARE IN JUST A HANDFUL OF WORDS INSTEAD OF SOIXANTE DIX QUATRE VINGTS AND QUATRE VINGT DIX hSEVENTYv hEIGHTYv AND hNINETYv ARE SEPTANTE HUITANTE AND NONANTE RESPECTIVELY ALTHOUGH IN RECENT YEARS THE INmUENCE OF INTERNATIONAL BANKING IN 'ENEVA HAS ENCOURAGED THE ADOPTION THERE OF THE ORTHODOX &RENCH USAGE OF QUATRE VINGTS INSTEAD OF HUITANTE ! 0/ BOX IS A BOÔTE POSTALE IN &RANCE BUT A CASE POSTALE OR #0 IN 3WITZERLAND !ND IN THE &RIBOURGEOIS COUNTRYSIDE THE
ENS ENDING OF PLACE NAMES SUCH AS 6UADENS IS PRONOUNCED IN FULL VOO A DONCE INSTEAD OF THE lNAL S REMAINING SILENT
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52099
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ISBN 1-84353-668-4
781843 536680
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